BIOLOGY 
 
URAL OWL. 
 
A 
 
 SPRING AND SUMMER 
 
 n 
 
 LAPLAND. 
 
 D X 
 
 AN OLD BUSHMANc. p ^ 
 
 A17THOB OF "TBV TBA.K8 
 
 Away, away, from men and towns, 
 To the wild woods and the downs. 
 
 To the silent wilderness, 
 Where the soul need not suppress 
 Its rapture, lest it should not find 
 
 An echo in another mind." SHILUT. 
 
 *tconb (Jrbhiott, foitb <ol(ranb Slates. 
 
 LONDON: 
 GROOMBRIDGE AND SONS, 
 
 5, PATERNOSTEE EOW. 
 
 MDCCCLXXI. 
 
L3AA/5 
 
 BIOLOGY 
 
 
 BIOLOGY LIBRARY 
 
TO THE EDITOR OF 
 
 THE "FIELD" NEWSPAPER, 
 
 AS A SLIGHT ACKNOWLEDGMENT OP THE 
 
 KIND AND COURTEOUS TREATMENT 
 
 WHICH HE HAS INVABIABLY RECEIVED DURING A THREE TEARS* 
 
 CONNECTION WITH THAT PAPER, 
 
 THIS WORK 
 
 gltbicatrir 
 
 , 
 
 BY 
 
 AN OLD BUSHMAN. 
 
 GABDBJO, SWEDEN. 
 
 886675 
 
PEEFACE. 
 
 THE following work on the Fauna of Lap- 
 land is compiled from notes kept during a 
 season's collecting up at Quickiock in 1862. 
 These notes have, for the greater part, already 
 appeared in the columns of the "Field" News- 
 paper ; but the Editor having kindly given back 
 to the Author the right of republishing, he has, 
 at the request of several friends, collected 
 them in the shape of a volume, with some slight 
 alterations and additions, and again brings them 
 before the public in another form, fancying that 
 they may now be of more service to the natu- 
 ralist and traveller than in the columns of a news- 
 paper. As the Author's sole object in going up 
 to Lapland was for the purpose of collecting 
 birds and eggs, the present work will be 
 found rather as a guide to the ornithologist 
 
VI . PREFACE. 
 
 than any other class of reader, although at 
 the same time it is to be hoped that the 
 general reader will find something in it to 
 interest him. In conclusion, the Author can 
 only express his sincere hope that the work 
 in its present form will be as kindly and 
 favourably received as the notes from which 
 it is compiled were, when they first appeared 
 in the columns of the " Field." 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Pi.01. 
 
 A FEW PRELIMINARY REMARKS ON THE GENERAL FAUNA AND 
 
 LANDSCAPE OP SCANDINAVIA ... 6 
 
 CHAPTER H. 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY, AND HINTS TO THE 
 
 TRAVELLER . . . . .18 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE JOURNEY UP ..... 33 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 LAPLAND . . . . .75 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 NOTES FROM MY DIARY KEPT AT QUICKIOCK . . 11G 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 HINTS TO SPORTSMEN AND NATURALISTS IN LAPLAND . 144 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ON THE FISH PECULIAR TO THESE WATERS, THE REPTILES, 
 
 AND THE INSECTS OF LAPLAND 156 
 
Vlll CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER YIII. 
 
 PACK. 
 
 A CHAPTER ON THE MAMMALIA BELONGING TO THIS 
 
 DISTRICT . . . . . .172 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND . . .241 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 A CHAPTER ON THE ORNITHOLOGY AROUND VARDOL, IN 
 EAST FINLAND, LYING CONTIGUOUS TO THE NORTH 
 CAPE . . . . . .371 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION . .387 
 
A SPEING AND SUMMER IS 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 A FEW PRELIMINARY REMARKS ON THE GENERAL 
 FAUNA AND LANDSCAPE OF SCANDINAVIA.* 
 
 IT is no easy task to give even a good general 
 account of the fauna, climate, or scenery of this 
 wide- stretched continent, which extends from 
 about 55 to 71 of north latitude, and covers an 
 area of nearly 300,000 English square miles, 
 diversified with every description of landscape, 
 from the low peat sandy plains and open turf 
 mosses of the south, and the dense pine forests of 
 the midland districts, to the barren fells of the 
 north, whose snow-capped summits afford a scanty 
 sustenance to scarcely any other living creature 
 than the reindeer and the ptarmigan. Over so 
 wide a surface we shall expect to find soil and 
 
 * By Scandinavia is meant Sweden and Norway, not in- 
 cluding Denmark. 
 
 B 
 
2 A SPUING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 vegetation of every description; and it is the 
 diversity of scenery which meets the traveller's 
 eye at every turn, that gives a charm to wan- 
 dering through these northern climes. Still, rich 
 as it is in natural productions, rich as it is in 
 every branch of its fauna, this is a land compara- 
 tively but little known to the British traveller ; 
 whilst almost every other part of the European 
 ''continent) whose natural beauties can scarcely sur- 
 pass this magnificent country in the summer, are 
 as well known to the English tourist as the woods 
 and glades of his own merry England. 
 
 Scarcely any other country in Europe possesses 
 so many attractions to the naturalist as Scandi- 
 navia, for the varied nature of the landscape, with 
 so few inhabitants scattered over its surface, marks 
 it as a fitting home for such of the rarer species of 
 quadruped and bird as delight in solitude and 
 retirement ; while its vast extent of coast, its 
 magnificent rivers, and innumerable inland lakes 
 must render it one of the greatest interest to 
 the ichthyologist. Most of the larger and wilder 
 species of the European mammalia are to be met 
 with in one part or another of this immense con- 
 tinent. The elk finds shelter in the midland 
 forests ; the reindeer on the northern fells ; the 
 bear, the lynx, the glutton, the wolf, and the 
 Arctic fox, are no strangers in the midland and 
 
PEELIMINARY EEMAEKS. O 
 
 northern districts ; and the marten cat, the fox , 
 and the squirrel, besides many species of bats and 
 field-mice, abound in every part of the country. 
 Unfortunately, the beaver is now nearly extinct, 
 and almost the only memento we meet with here 
 at the present day of this interesting animal (which 
 was once so common in the north of Europe) is 
 an occasional deserted beaver dam, in one or other 
 of the wildest and most secluded northern forests. 
 
 It is on account of this country presenting so 
 wide and varied a surface, that we find so mani- 
 fest a difference in its fauna, and this is still 
 further supported when we consider the nature of 
 the lands open downs, deep forests, sandy flats, 
 cultivated fields, meadow, marsh, and morass, and 
 in the very north, snow-covered fells. These last 
 must exercise a great influence on the fauna of 
 the north, for every species of animal must have 
 its well-defined limit from the region of per- 
 petual snow. Messon, with his usual acumen, 
 divides Scandinavia into separate regions for 
 different animals and plants. 
 
 Beginning from the very tops of the fells, and 
 following, by degrees, in a southerly direction, the 
 tracks that he below them, we shall find that cer- 
 tain species of animals, as well as of plants, are 
 only to be met with on the highest fells, amongst 
 perpetual snow-drifts ; and also that other species 
 
4 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 are found only in those tracts far removed from the 
 fells themselves, and this will hold good, whether 
 we divide these regions in a vertical or horizontal 
 direction, with this difference, that the regions in 
 the latter are much broader than in the former. 
 
 After these remarks we will divide the land 
 into the following regions for plants and quad- 
 rupeds, taking a fell tract in West Norway, 60 
 north latitude. 
 
 1. The Perpetual Snow Region, which extends 
 from the tops of the highest snow fells down to 
 the first bushes. In this region the only vegeta- 
 tions are a few ice plants, lichens, and mosses ; 
 and the only quadrupeds that belong to them are 
 the glutton, the white fox, the reindeer, the 
 northern hare (Lepus lorealis), and the common 
 weazel. 
 
 2. To the Willow and Birch Region belong the 
 lemming, two or three species of field-mice, the 
 fox, the wolf, the bear, the stoat, the common 
 field-mouse, the Lorex pygmceus, and one bat 
 (Vesp. lorealis). 
 
 3. In the Pine and Fir Region we meet with the 
 long-eared bat, parti-coloured bats, the water- 
 shrew, the lynx, the marten, the otter, the long- 
 tailed field-mouse, the common mouse, two or 
 three species of vole, the squirrel, the elk, and the 
 red deer. 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 5 
 
 4. In the Oak Region, reckoning from that 
 tract where the oak-tree first grows, the great 
 bat, the hedgehog, the common rat, the grey 
 hare (Lepus Canescens), the polecat, and the 
 badger. 
 
 5. The Beech Region, the Barbastell bat, the 
 mole, the dormouse, and the Roedeer. 
 
 6. In such Tracts as the black mulberry can 
 ripen in (skane) are found fossil remains of the wild 
 boar, the large bear (Ursus spelceus), the southern 
 species of reindeer, the Bos urus, Bos fr onto* 
 Bos loii'jift'nns, and the bison. 
 
 And as regards the ornithology of the count ry, 
 \vc shall see the limits of the several birds just as 
 clearly denned. For 
 
 1. In the Snow Region we meet with the snow 
 bunting, Buffon's skua, the wheatear, the raven, 
 rough-legged buzzard, the gyrfalcon, the snowy 
 owl, the short-eared owl, the ptarmigan, the white- 
 fronted goose, the dotterel, the golden plover, the 
 redshank, the dunlin, the purple landpiper, the 
 common gull, the herring gull (by the fell lakes), 
 and three or four species of diving duck. 
 
 2. In the Willow and Birch Region the 
 meadow pipit, the blue-throated warbler, the 
 brambling, the mealy redpole, the black-headed 
 bunting, the yellow wagtail, the willow wren, the 
 redwing, the ring ouzel, the redstart, marsh tit- 
 
6 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 mouse, Siberian titmouse, water ouzel, willow 
 grouse, common sandpiper, common snipe, hooper, 
 bean goose, pintail, scoter, widgeon, wild duck, 
 and teal. 
 
 3. In the Pine and Fir Region the Siberian 
 jay, the waxwing, pine bullfinch, the hawk owl, 
 the fieldfare, the greenfinch, the siskin, chaffinch, 
 hedge-sparrow, bullfinch, crested tit, coal tit, great 
 black woodpecker, three-toed woodpecker, gold- 
 crest wren, the crossbills, redbreast, garden 
 warbler, song thrush, tree pipit, capercailzie, black 
 grouse, and hazel grouse. 
 
 4. In the Cultivated Districts the hooded 
 crow, magpie, ortolan bunting, yellow bunting, 
 white wagtail, common sparrow, swallow, and 
 martin, etc. 
 
 Thus we shall see, as might naturally be ex- 
 pected, that the vegetation, as well as the fauna 
 of this land, has its defined limits ; for, beginning 
 with the cultivated districts at the bottom of the 
 fells, where many of the trees and shrubs peculiar 
 to Britain are met with, we come first (ascending 
 the fell sides) to the fir districts, and then to the 
 pine. Above these we meet with the common 
 birch, and higher up with the willow and the fell 
 birch. Above this we reach a district where little 
 save mosses and lichens can grow, and above all 
 lies the region of perpetual snows. 
 
PKELIMINAEY REMAEKS. 7 
 
 The botanist can judge for himself how wide a 
 field is here open to him, and it is no wonder that 
 Sweden is able to boast of so many well versed in 
 this science, and the study of the entomologist 
 goes hand in hand with it. But to the geologist 
 and lover of antiquarian lore Scandinavia posseses 
 still richer attractions. Judging from the fossil 
 remains preserved in the museums of the country, 
 many animals (long since outrooted from this 
 land, and some altogether extinct) in former days 
 inhabited the south of Sweden, and the bones of 
 antediluvian monsters which are occasionally dug 
 up in the turf mosses of "Skania," are evidences 
 of by-gone ages. It is easy, while gazing on 
 these interesting relics,, to carry the reflective 
 mind back to the period before man appeared on 
 the face of the globe ; when, probably, the waves 
 rolled over the greater part of this continent, and 
 we can picture to the mind's eye monstrous carti- 
 laginous fishes then peopling the waters, and 
 reptiles of misshapen and hideous growth drawing 
 their slow length over the slimy oozes of the Fens. 
 Pass we on to a later day, and the whole face of 
 the country has gradually changed. The wild 
 bull tossed his mane in the then secluded forest ; 
 the wild sow farrowed in security in regions as yet 
 untrodden by the foot of man, and hundreds of 
 gigantic elk and red deer roamed at will through 
 
8 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 the oak and beechen forests, and over the wide 
 prairies of southern Scandinavia. 
 
 " Whatever," observes Dr. Johnson, " with- 
 draws us from the power of our senses, what- 
 ever makes the past, the distant, or the future 
 predominate over the present, advances us in 
 the dignity of thinking beings." And whoever 
 takes an interest in the early ages of mankind will 
 here find much to occupy his attention and his 
 thoughts. The rude implements of the chase and 
 the barbarous weapons of warfare which are still 
 preserved, carry the mind back to -distant ages, 
 when the battle and the chase formed man's con- 
 stant or only employment. Huge barrows and 
 cairns, and rude but stupendous monuments of 
 stone mark the site of many an ancient battle-field, 
 or the last resting-place of the old Scandinavian 
 warrior and king ; whilst rude hieroglyphics, cut 
 on the rocks in many places of these coasts, are 
 mementos at the present day, of those savage 
 barbarians who in the early ages of Christianity 
 spread fire and desolation over so great a portion 
 of Europe ; when the " Viking" or pirate ves- 
 sel spread her sails to the wind, and bore the 
 " Yikinger" or dreaded sea pirate to the opposite 
 shores of Britain. 
 
 Our task, however, is with the present, and 
 not the past ; and it only remains for us to add, 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 9 
 
 that let his taste be what it may whether he be 
 a sportsman, a naturalist, or merely a wanderer in 
 search of the beauties of nature the traveller 
 here will find full employment ; and there is, 
 probably, scarcely another country in Europe, 
 through which (especially during the summer 
 months) a stranger can travel with so much 
 cheapness, security, and freedom as in this. 
 
 But to return to our more immediate subject. 
 As regards the mammalia of Scandinavia, two 
 hypotheses have been framed respecting their intro- 
 duction into this land. It is supposed by some, 
 and with good reason, that this continent was at 
 an early period landlocked with the rest of Europe 
 before the Baltic and the Bothnia formed a divid- 
 ing line of sea ; and according to their idea, most 
 of the southern species came over the dry land 
 where the Baltic now flows, and the more northern 
 ones, such as the glutton, Arctic fox, reindeer, 
 flying squirrel, and some others, came from the 
 tracts lying north-east of the Bothnian Gulf. Be 
 this, however, as it may, each species appears to 
 be pretty well confined to its assigned limits, and 
 only makes occasional migrations to other districts, 
 induced by an instinct which it baffles man's 
 ingenuity to account for. 
 
 Not so, however, with the ornithology of the 
 north. The migrations of the feathered race to 
 
10 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 these climes are much more regular and certain ; 
 but it may be remarked that many individuals of 
 the different families, which as a general rule are 
 only summer migrants to the north of the country, 
 remain stationary in the south of Sweden during 
 the winter, especially if the weather be open ; and 
 many ducks, although the majority leave the 
 country, are to be seen off the southern coast, and 
 even on the open midland waters, during that 
 season. Some other species are only partial 
 migrants in the winter from the northern and 
 midland districts to the south of the country, 
 where they remain during the coldest season, and 
 return to their more northerly breeding haunts in 
 the spring. Among these we may mention the 
 hooded crow, one or other of the falcons and 
 hawks, the jackdaw, mealy redpole, greenfinch, 
 siskin, goldfinch, mountain linnet, chaffinch, purple 
 sandpiper, spotted crake, dabchick, and some of the 
 diving ducks and gulls. 
 
 The few that remain in the middle and north 
 of the country throughout the most inclement 
 winters are the eagles, the gyrfalcon, goshawk, all 
 the owls (with the exception of the short-eared), 
 the raven, magpie, all the woodpeckers (except 
 the middle- spotted), which is confined at all 
 seasons to the south of the country; the crossbills, 
 pine grosbeak, waxwing, jay, Siberian jay, the tit- 
 
PEELIMINAEY REMARKS. 11 
 
 mice, yellow bunting, sparrow, bullfinch, a few 
 redwing and fieldfare, and a diving duck or two, 
 if there be any open water. And we may notice 
 three others, whose slender frames appear ill fitted 
 to withstand the rigours of a northern winter, but 
 which I have seen in the Wermland forests duriiio- 
 the severest weather the tree-creeper, the wivn, 
 and the gold-crest. Why these little stragglers 
 should remain behind, after all their glad com* 
 panions of summer have flitted to warmer climes, 
 has always been a mystery to me. Some few 
 species, such as the hen harrier, the pigmy curlew, 
 the knot, the sanderling, the bernacle goose, the 
 brent, and the grey plover, have not yet, in my 
 knowledge, been detected breeding in any part of 
 Scandinavia, but are only seen during their migra- 
 tions, as it is supposed, to and from more north- 
 easterly latitudes ; but as I have shot the grey 
 plover, the knot, and the pigmy curlew, on the 
 southern coast of Skania, very early in August, in 
 full summer dress, as well as birds of the year, 
 there is every reason to suppose that these indi- 
 viduals had bred somewhere on this continent. 
 With the exception of, perhaps, a rare sea-fowl, 
 whose peculiar home is in high northern latitudes, 
 there are no regular winter migrants to Scandi- 
 navia. 
 
 Some birds are becoming yearly more scarce 
 
12 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 in the north. For instance, the sheldrake, bittern, 
 ruff, lapwing, black tern, black-headed gull, and 
 golden plover; and as all these, with the excep- 
 tion of the last-named, are southern species, this 
 fact may be accounted for by the increase of cul- 
 tivation. On the contrary, one or two other 
 species are gradually spreading themselves more 
 widely over the face of the country such as the 
 shore lark, Siberian tit, etc. Many of the summer 
 migrants do not appear in the same quantities in 
 each succeeding year. The nutcracker is a strik- 
 ing instance of this fact ; and in certain winters, 
 when the supply of fir cones and berries runs 
 short, fewer of the partial migrants are to be seen 
 in the midland forests. 
 
 That the British fauna is far richer in accidental 
 varieties than the Scandinavian, is easily accounted 
 for by the fact of the former country being so 
 densely populated and closely examined, that it 
 is next to impossible for a strange bird to show 
 itself on the British shores without being at once 
 noticed. Whereas, such is the wild nature of the 
 Scandinavian landscape, and so thinly are the 
 habitations of man scattered over its surface, that 
 a rare bird may come and go, year after year, 
 without being noticed by any one. But that 
 Scandinavia is much richer in indigenous species 
 and individuals of those species, during the breed- 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 13 
 
 ing season, may be supposed, when we consider 
 the wide tracts of uninhabited country between 
 Falsterbo Eeef and the North Cape, abounding in 
 suitable localities for the wilder, and to the British 
 fauna rarer, species of birds, whose shy and re- 
 tired habits lead them to seek securer and more 
 secluded breeding haunts than any part of Great 
 Britain can afford. We find, therefore, that out 
 of the 357 species included in the British fauna, 
 not one-half are known to breed in that country ; 
 whereas, out of about 300 Scandinavian sp< 
 about 230 breed in the north. 
 
 With regard to the Danish fauna, it may be 
 regarded as intermediate between that of Great 
 Britain and Scandinavia ; but comparatively fewer 
 birds breed there than in either of the above- 
 named lands. In climate and general appearance 
 the country much resembles the British isles ; and 
 I thought I never gazed upon a quieter, richer, 
 or lovelier landscape, than when passing through 
 the Belts a few summers ago. The country is 
 well adapted to the habits of the southern warblers, 
 and many of the common waders and water fowl, 
 and lying in a direct line, as it were, between 
 England and Sweden, it is more frequently visited 
 by the rarer northern birds than the former 
 country. The south of Denmark is highly culti- 
 vated, and the whole land has a far more pastoral 
 
14 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 appearance than the opposite shores of Sweden. 
 In the north of Zealand, however, are many miles 
 of barren moorland, which, without possessing 
 the rich appearance of the bonny purple heather 
 of Scotland, are well adapted to the habits of the 
 curlew, golden plover, and many other birds which 
 frequent the British moors. The country, how- 
 ever, is level, and, therefore, we never meet in 
 Denmark either with the ptarmigan or the willow 
 grouse, both which abound in Sweden and Nor- 
 way ; and the absence of the pine and fir forests 
 renders it an unfitting residence for some of the 
 large birds of prey. That noblest of all game 
 birds, the capercally, as well as the hazel grouse, 
 are unknown here, and the blackcock is rare ; 
 otherwise the Danish fauna much resembles that 
 of the south of Sweden, from which it is only 
 separated by the Sound, a narrow channel but a 
 few English miles broad. There are no rivers to 
 speak of in Denmark, but many large ponds, well 
 stocked with the commoner species of fresh- water 
 fish. However much the agriculturist and the ad- 
 mirer of pastoral scenery may love to linger among 
 the neat enclosures and rich pastures of the "Danish 
 farmers, this country affords but little interest to 
 the naturalist or the sportsman, who will eagerly 
 hasten on to the wilder and less inhabited districts. 
 I consider the British coasts, generally speak- 
 
PRELIMINARY REMARKS. 15 
 
 ing, to be much richer in sea fowl than the 
 southern coast of Sweden ; but the wild " Skar 
 Gard," or cluster of rocky islands that skirt the 
 northern shores of Scandinavia is the peculiar 
 home of these birds, which resort, eyery spring, 
 in countless thousands, to their breeding haunts 
 on the western and northern coasts ; whilst the 
 immense swamps and morasses, and innumerable 
 inland lakes with which the whole of Scandinavia 
 is studded, afford secure shelter and breeding- 
 places for every species of inland aquatic birds. 
 In the very south of Sweden, where the oak, the 
 beech, and the hazel usurp the place of the pine 
 and the fir, kings of the northern forest, the 
 different species of warblers find a home as con- 
 genial to their habits as the groves and planta- 
 tions of England; and as regards the general 
 fauna of this part of the country, it differs but 
 little from that of Britain. The severity of the 
 northern winter is here but little felt, and the 
 spring migrants make their appearance nearly as 
 early as in England, and generally a fortnight 
 earlier than they are to be seen in the midland 
 districts, where snow frequently covers the ground 
 in the end of April. 
 
 In the midland districts, where pine and fir 
 forests of boundless extent rise on high stony 
 ranges, intersected with plains and valleys of 
 
16 A SPBING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 meadow and cultivated land and dells, where the 
 willow and the alder vegetate in great luxuriance, 
 nearly every species of land birds finds a congenial 
 home. Whilst vast morasses, many of which can 
 never be traversed by the human foot, rivers, and 
 inland lakes of every size, fringed with the reed, 
 the bulrush, and the candock, and thousands of 
 acres of low meadow land, covered with thick 
 coarse grass, abound in every species of water 
 and aquatic birds, which resort to the north in 
 hundreds at the commencement of the breeding 
 season. It is here that the British naturalist 
 begins to meet with rare and new specimens, and 
 it is here that the eye of the traveller first gazes 
 on the fine scenery of the north ; and more beau- 
 tiful scenery than Scandinavia displays during the 
 summer months it would be hard to find. I have 
 wandered over many lands, but scarcely ever 
 saw a European landscape to vie with this. 
 
 In the very north, the appearance of the whole 
 country becomes gradually more wild and rugged, 
 and high mountains and barren fells, covered with 
 perennial snows, rise above the limits of vegeta- 
 tion, and towering over the forests which skirt 
 their bases, are the home of some few of the very 
 scarcest and wildest species, whose haunts during 
 the breeding season are but little known to us. 
 
 It is therefore not to be wondered at that the 
 
PEELIMINAEY REMAKES. 17 
 
 southern naturalist should fondly long to wander 
 in the secluded regions of the far north, which 
 contain treasures so eagerly coveted for his collec- 
 tion at home, and it is to be hoped that a perusal 
 of the following pages will give him a slight in- 
 sight into the fauna of this magnificent land, and 
 prove that the task of reaching it is neither so 
 arduous or troublesome as he might at first be led 
 to suppose. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 PEEPAEATIONS FOE THE JOUENEY, AND HINTS TO THE 
 TEAVELLEE. 
 
 THE tourist who visits Lapland merely for the 
 sake of seeing the country will find little difficulty 
 in effecting his object. He will not require to 
 leave England before the end of May ; he can per- 
 form the whole journey from Hull to Happaranda 
 (the most northerly town in the Bothnian Gulf ), 
 via Gothenburg and Stockholm, by steam. The 
 Bothnian steamers start from Stockholm as soon 
 as the sea is free from ice. Of course this is 
 dependent upon the season ; but we cannot reckon 
 with any certainty that they can run the whole 
 way up until early in June. He will require no 
 passport, and neither guide nor interpreter, till 
 he reaches Happaranda, from which place he can 
 branch off in any direction he pleases. His jour- 
 ney will then be performed in boats or on foot, 
 and he will find far less difficulty in reaching the 
 wildest spot in Lapland than he would anticipate. 
 But if his object is merely to visit the North Cape, 
 his better plan will be to go from Hull to Chris- 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. 19 
 
 tiana in Norway, thence to Bergen, and from that 
 place he will obtain a passage by steamer right up 
 to Hammerfest or Vardoe. The journey from 
 Hull to Gothenburg will occupy three days ; from 
 that place to Stockholm, three more ; thence to 
 Happaranda, four more. 
 
 But it is a very different affair for the natu- 
 ralist or collector, especially if eggs are his prin- 
 cipal object. He will require to be up at his head- 
 quarters early in April, and he must necessarily 
 steam up in the autumn, before the winter sets 
 in, and brave the rigours and monotony of a Lap 
 winter ; or he must adopt my plan, and sledge up 
 during the winter taking care that he is not too 
 late, for the snow melts all at once when the thaw 
 sets in (and this happens long before the ice goes 
 in the rivers) ; and just at this time travelling is 
 dangerous, troublesome, and laborious. I was 
 lucky enough to hit the identical time. I left 
 Gardsjo on March 24, and reached Quickiock on 
 April 16, and the sledging was good the whole 
 way up, save for six English miles. Had I waited 
 another week I should have had little or no sledg- 
 ing till I reached Hernosand ; and such a journey 
 at this time of year, on these dreadful pea- 
 sants' carts, over bad roads, could have been 
 scarcely borne by any one save a Swedish mail- 
 man or a genuine " gutta-percha" boy. 
 
20 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAtfD. 
 
 It is not my intention to occupy more space 
 than I can possibly help with the details of my 
 journey, and, in fact, throughout my whole notes, 
 will endeavour to be as concise as possible; but 
 tin's little work being intended as a guide for any 
 future traveller or naturalist who may wish to 
 visit this interesting land, of which comparatively 
 so little is known in England, I shall, perhaps, 
 notice some matters which may appear trivial to 
 the general reader, yet prove of great service to 
 the traveller. As my trip, however, was solely 
 for the purpose of collecting and obtaining a better 
 knowledge of the habits of the rarer British birds 
 during the breeding season, my notes on the 
 ornithology of the districts which I visited may 
 probably assume a more lengthened form ; and 
 the reader may rely implicitly on what I write ; 
 for, as I ever have done, I shall state nothing as a 
 fact which does not come under my own personal 
 observation. I shall, in the first place, give a 
 short sketch of the journey up, and make a few 
 remarks on life in Lapland, as it struck me ; and 
 I shall carefully avoid tiring the reader with 
 anecdotes related to me by others ; for I look 
 upon a narrative or book filled with anecdotes, 
 unless the writer can himself vouch for their truth, 
 as little better than a work of fiction. And let 
 me remark at starting, that if I state any fact at 
 
PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. 21 
 
 variance with other naturalists, it does not follow 
 that I wish to infer that they are wrong, or that 
 I know more than they do. The habits of birds 
 differ much in different localities ; and it is never 
 fair to condemn a man for stating a fact relative 
 to the habits of any bird or animal because we 
 may not happen to have observed it ourselves. 
 
 I shall commence by making a few remarks 
 on the manner of posting through these northern 
 countries. The roads throughout Sweden are 
 generally excellent hilly, it is true, and rough in 
 many places, owing to the nature of the country, 
 but well looked after by the " landsman," or chief 
 magistrate of each district. A toll-bar is never 
 seen, except occasionally at the entrance of a town. 
 At a distance of about every Swedish mile (6f 
 English), or perhaps 1J mile, is a post-station, 
 the master of which is bound to furnish horses 
 and conveyances for travellers, as well as accom- 
 modation. Diligences run between, many of the 
 principal towns, and in the summer steamers ply 
 through the whole country ; but the posting is all 
 done by the peasants' little horses ; and, if the 
 traveller has no conveyance of his own, he rides in 
 winter on a peasant's sledge at other times, in 
 one of their little carts. The post-master has 
 seldom any horses in his stable ; and " A pair out, 
 quick!" is not the order of the day here. The 
 
22 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 horses are furnished by the neighbouring farmers, 
 each in his turn, and the postmaster has some- 
 times to send a distance of two English miles for 
 horses ; consequently, the traveller is often delayed 
 a couple of hours at each station, but by the law 
 he must not be kept more than three. If he 
 sends forward a messenger or " forbud" in advance 
 (which will cost him, perhaps, 6d. the Swedish 
 mile), the horses will be ready for him; but he 
 must not keep them waiting, or he will have to 
 pay for the peasant's time. I observed, however, 
 on my journey up, that at most of the stations 
 now the mileage is a little higher, and they were 
 bound to furnish us with horses in a quarter of an 
 hour, so that a " forbud " is unnecessary. The 
 rate of travelling may be estimated at one Swedish 
 mile in the hour; and what with delays, bad 
 horses, and hilly roads, the traveller may truly be 
 said to crawl through the country. The charge, 
 per Swedish mile, is about Is. for each horse, and 
 Id. for the cart or sledge. The drivers are gene- 
 rally little peasant lads sharp, merry, rosy- 
 cheeked urchins ; and capitally they drive ; and if 
 they receive Id. per Swedish mile as postilion fee, 
 they are more than satisfied. The horses are 
 small, but always in good condition (for the 
 Swedish peasant looks after his little horse like a 
 child), and a galled back or broken knee is rarely 
 
PEEPAEATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. 23 
 
 seen in the north. At each post-station is a day- 
 book, in which the traveller enters his name, where 
 he is bound for, etc. ; and if he has any complaint 
 to make here, he books it. In each day-book is 
 entered the distance to the next -stage, and the 
 charge ; so there is not half the trouble in post- 
 ing through Sweden that the stranger would 
 imagine. This day-book is sent in to the lands- 
 man at the end of each month, and a new one 
 issued. The postmaster is usually a better class 
 of peasant, always civil and well-behaved, espe- 
 cially towards a foreigner. Most of the inns are 
 furnished with a bill of fare hung up in the tra- 
 vellers' room ; and, as it may not be uninteresting 
 to the English reader, I insert a tariff (dated 
 Sept. 12, 1861) which I copied from an inn a 
 little north of Herinosand : 
 
 *. a. 
 
 A best meal (three dishes) . 1 
 
 s. d. 
 A kanna of small beer . . 1 J 
 
 One not quite so good ..08 i A bread cake 01 
 
 Twenty eggs 10 
 
 A cup of coffee 01 
 
 Best bed (down mattress) . 1 
 One not quite so good ..08 
 
 A bed of straw 04 
 
 A fire of birch wood . . . 1J 
 One of fir or pine .... 1 
 A kanna (4 bottles) ale . .0 4 
 
 Two feeds of oata .... 4 
 201b. clover hay .... 9 
 Do. meadow hay . . . . 4| 
 A tallow candle, 6 to the Ib. . 1| 
 Four bottles sweet milk ..03 
 
 Do. sour 01 
 
 lib. butter 09 
 
 Stabling for a horse . . . Ik 
 
 Robbery or extortion is rarely, if ever, heard 
 of on the Swedish roads. In the summer the 
 
24 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 roads are excellent, in the spring and autumn 
 bad ; but it is when the frozen snow covers them 
 that the travelling is best. The reader may per- 
 haps wonder how the roads are kept clear of 
 snow ; and it is done after this fashion : As soon 
 as the first snow falls, and the roads are covered 
 pretty deeply, the snow-plough is brought out. 
 This is a kind of triangular machine, built of three 
 boards, a foot deep, 14 feet long, 10 feet wide 
 behind, and coming to a point in front, like the 
 bows of a ducking-punt. Cross-bars extend across 
 the plough, and upon these a lot of peasants 
 perch themselves to give it weight; four or six 
 oxen are yoked to it, and by dragging it back- 
 wards and forwards from one station to another, 
 the loose snow is shovelled up in banks on 
 each side, and, as it always comes on to freeze 
 as soon as the snow-storm is over, an excellent 
 road, level as a bowling-green, is formed through- 
 out the whole country, which stands, without 
 any repairing, till the spring thaw; and if the 
 snow falls again, the snow-plough is again 
 brought into requisition. Each gentleman opens a 
 road from his house to the high road ; and he must 
 be careful not to let the snow fall too deep before 
 he brings out his snow-plough, or he may be 
 snowed in. Roads are set out across all the frozen 
 lakes by bushes stuck in the snow ; gaps are made 
 
PEEPAEATIONS FOE THE JOUENEY. 25 
 
 in fences, and straight short cuts made from one 
 village to another. The travelling is now by sledge; 
 and if he is only well wrapped up, the traveller 
 rolls along as comfortably as in a first-class railway 
 carriage ; not so, however, when he travels on the 
 bare roads in one of these peasant carts for of all 
 the bone-setting, jolting, infernal machines that a 
 traveller ever rode in, these are the worst. Talk 
 of the old English coach-box before springs were 
 invented, it was nothing to them ; and certainly 
 Sweden can boast of the worst public conveyances 
 of any country in the world. Imagine a little shal- 
 low- box, about 6 feet long and 4 feet wide, fixed 
 upon a wooden axle, with two of the most rickety 
 wheels that ever hung together, and in the middle 
 of this box a seat placed upon two slanting ash- 
 poles, about 1 foot above the axle and the reader 
 can form an idea of a Swedish peasant's cart. 
 There is not a spring about the whole concern ; 
 and as for an apron, such a thing was never dreamt 
 of here. The jolting of such a machine over bad 
 roads, with deep ruts, can be better imagined 
 than described. The peasants, who are hard as 
 nails, don't feel it a bit; but the poor traveller, 
 especially if he be one of the soft-wooled kind, is 
 kept in a constant state of agony and fear where- 
 ever the roads are bad (and in spring and autumn 
 the ruts are often up to the axle), obliged to hold 
 
26 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 on like grim Death, otherwise lie is sure to be shot 
 off his perch, every bone in his skin aching with 
 pain. Not a bit of use complaining to the phlegm- 
 atic driver, who seems to pick out the worst bits 
 of road, just to try the traveller's mettle. All the 
 answer you get is the usual long-drawn " Soo." If 
 you don't like it, you can get out and walk ; and, 
 as this saves his horse, this just pleases him. What 
 with bad harness and rickety carts, it is a wonder 
 we don't hear of more accidents on these roads. 
 Much as I have travelled in Sweden, I never had 
 but one accident; this was, however, an awful 
 smash. 
 
 Each horse is by law obliged, if the traveller 
 wishes it, to draw 4001b., exclusive of the cart and 
 driver. The passenger is weighed in at 2001b., 
 and he can have 2001b. of luggage. By diligence 
 he can only have 301b. No box that ever was 
 made, unless strongly iron-bound, can stand the 
 wear and tear of a long journey in one of these 
 carts. A strong English leather trunk (but mind 
 and cover it with sail cloth) and carpet bag are as 
 good as anything ; but the passenger must be care- 
 ful not to have his trunk too large, or it won't fit 
 into the box about 2^ feet long, 1J broad, and 
 18 inches deep is the best size. A small glazed 
 carpet bag to hold his money, map, and other 
 little odds-and-ends, must not be forgotten. The 
 
PEEPAEATIONS FOE THE JOUENEY. 27 
 
 Swedish travellers adopt a very useful plan, they 
 have a kind of large leather " reticule " attached 
 to the neck by a strap, with a snap lock ; this holds 
 their loose change, tobacco, etc., and very useful it 
 is, for when a man is tightly enveloped in a huge 
 skin cloak, he can't well get at his pockets. 
 
 As my object in visiting Lapland was to obtain 
 a good insight into the natural history of the 
 country, and to collect, I determined to leave 
 nothing to chance. I therefore took up one of my 
 best collecting lads as servant ; and as three can 
 travel as cheaply as two, as far as posting goes 
 (for two must have two sledges, and three require 
 no more, one driver sufficing to bring back the two 
 empty sledges), I also had a young Swede as com- 
 panion, to help me in any difficulty on the road. 
 In this respect I acted foolishly, for I could have 
 managed just as well by myself; and when he got 
 up to Lapland he was seized with such a fit of 
 home-sickness, that I was obliged to send him 
 home by the first open water, thus entailing a 
 great and unnecessary expense. And here let me 
 give a bit of advice to any naturalist visiting 
 Lapland. If he must have a guide or interpreter, 
 let him take a regular travelling servant from 
 Stockholm. Such a man knows his work, and 
 keeps his place as a servant. I may, however, 
 mention that at most of the towns, if he wishes it, 
 
28 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 the traveller will have no difficulty in obtaining a 
 young student, who \vill willingly accompany him 
 for a trifle on such a trip. In collecting, let him 
 trust to the help of the natives in the district which 
 he visits ; they will be too glad to help him to 
 earn a little money. They know the country, and 
 the haunts and localities of the different birds and 
 beasts in their neighbourhood, and will do more 
 for him in a week than a strange servant, let lu'm be 
 ever so good, will in a month. But I did not know 
 at first that I could procure so much assistance, 
 and it was all important that I should have one man 
 upon whom I could trust, for I could not explain 
 to the Laps in what state of plumage I wanted 
 the different birds, and I knew my lad could be 
 depended upon, for he has been in my. service some 
 years. He certainly worked well, but every speci- 
 men he procured for me cost me four times as 
 much as those I bought of the natives. 
 
 We travelled in two sledges. Our baggage 
 ivei^-hed about 8G01b., which I computed thus, and, 
 so that we should have no trouble on the road, I 
 weighed every package before we started : Dog, 
 351b.; shot and powder, lOOlb. (but this was barely 
 sufficient) ; trunk with clothes, books, etc., 801b. ; 
 double gun in case, etc., 251b.; double gun for my 
 lad, 141b.; spare single ditto, 71b. ; small carpet bag, 
 with money and things for road, 201b.; clothes for my 
 
FOR THE JOUKXEY. 29 
 
 -> mates, 601K We could, by law, have taken 
 4011). more ; and, in tact, the sledging runs so light 
 in the \\inter, that not one of the drivers would have 
 grumbled if we had had a little overweight. I 
 could have bought very good shot (at 3<7. per Ib. if 
 I had taken 1 cwt.) and fair powder at U. (></. in 
 Gefle, through which town I must pass ; and even at 
 Quickiock we could buy coarse powder (I mention 
 this as a guide to the stranger) ; but, as I had 
 I >lei 1 1 y at home, I thought it best to take it. More- 
 over, the English powder is far cleaner and stronger 
 than any you can buy in Sweden. Snmlj shot, 
 however, is never to be procured up in the country, 
 as it is not used by the shooters here. 
 
 J should, however, advise every naturalist or 
 sportsman to bring over powder and caps (for he 
 cannot procure these here), and a spare gun, for if 
 an accident happens up in these wilds he cannot 
 repair it. 
 
 I took care to provide lots of small silver and 
 copper money for the roads, and an excellent little 
 travelling map by Strom, which sets out all the 
 roads in Sweden, and marks the distance between 
 the post stations. This I found most useful. A good 
 map of Lapland itself is, however, hard to procure. 
 A good cloak lined with sheepskin over my pea 
 jacket, a pair of outer cloth-lined boots, my old 
 Australian "possum rug" round my knees, a fur 
 
30 A SPRING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 cap to cover the head and ears, and warm gloves, 
 without fingers, completed my equipment; and 
 not one of these articles should the traveller omit 
 who undertakes a journey through these northern 
 climes in the winter, when the quicksilver varies 
 from 15 to 40 below zero, Celsius. Wrapped 
 up as I was, with the thermometer never lower 
 than 25 (13 below zero Fahr.), I was " none too 
 warm," and at times when the bleak north wind 
 came howling through the forests, dashing the 
 cutting sleet into my face, I fancied my nose would 
 snap off " like a carrot." 
 
 The cap I wore was an old tiger- skin one, 
 which I picked up south of the Line ; and a most 
 imposing figure I cut as I sledged up to the doors 
 of the country public-houses, the " admired of all 
 admirers." My cap was an object of veneration 
 to all the peasant lads that drove us. I believe 
 there was nothing about me that they envied 
 except this ; but certainly, like the grandfather's 
 stick in Eliza Cook's beautiful poem, this cap 
 " was the coveted relic of all." 
 
 Of course many inquiries were made by the 
 postmasters up the road as to who I was and what 
 was my business, and one and all firmly believed 
 that I was some rich Englishman or other, travel- 
 ling up to buy the great Gellivare iron mines. 
 One brandy-nosed old sinner was exceedingly 
 
PEEPAEATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. 31 
 
 inquisitive, and when I assured him my visit to 
 Lapland was solely for the purpose of collecting, 
 he took his pipe out of his mouth, looked at me 
 for a little while, more " in sorrow than in anger," 
 and left the room with this comment : " Well, 
 surely you Englishmen are mad ! " It was clear 
 he had already got some such notion into his 
 muddled, brandified old head, and now he was 
 perfectly convinced. 
 
 The dog I took up was a young unbroken 
 setter, and although I should advise every sports- 
 man visiting Lapland to take up, at least, one 
 good general-purpose dog, I should never re- 
 commend him using a first-class dog in the Lap 
 forests, where the steadiest dog that ever was shot 
 over would be spoilt in a month, for of all the birds 
 to try a young dog's temper, these willow grouse 
 are the worst. For the ptarmigan, on the fells, a 
 high ranging well-broken setter is of course the dog, 
 but in the forests and bushes, a slow, heavy, close- 
 hunting, retrieving spaniel would be by far more 
 useful. Although included in the weight of bag- 
 gage, my dog seldom rode in the sledge ; and out 
 of the 1000 English miles, I am sure he ran by 
 our side about 800. I was rather afraid of the 
 wolves, which often snap up a dog by the road. 
 However, we never saw a wolf during our whole 
 journey ; but I always had my revolver ready, for 
 
32 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 it is just when the winter is going that wolves are 
 most to be feared. We also were each provided 
 with a small tomahawk (which on a journey of 
 this kind may prove very useful in more ways than 
 one). Nor did we forget a coil of rope, and some 
 large nails, and a small canteen filled with the 
 common brandy of the country to give an occa- 
 sional dram to the drivers, on the principle that 
 " a spur in the head is worth two in the heel " 
 and it is wonderful how a stimulant like this acts 
 on these roads. 
 
:APTER in. 
 
 THE JOURNEY UP. 
 
 THE morning of March 24, the day I left 
 Gardsjo, was about as miserable a one as ever I 
 turned out in. The snow lay deep on the ground, 
 and the dark pine-forests looked doubly gloomy 
 in the sickly light of the waning moon. A drizz- 
 ling sleet was falling ; the thermometer was just 
 17 below zero, Celsius (1 Fahr.), and the pros- 
 pect of a journey of about a thousand English 
 miles in open sledges, in such weather, looked 
 cheerless enough. However, the horses were put 
 to, and about five we got under weigh, and reached 
 Philipstad, a little town sixty miles distant, by 
 midnight. This was our first stage, and the jour- 
 ney passed without a single incident on the road 
 worth recording, save that, for the last Swedish 
 mile into that town, the road was quite bare, for 
 the snow was so cut up with the sledges which 
 transport the iron ore from the mines in this 
 neighbourhood, that we had to change our sledges 
 for carts, the only time throughout our whole 
 journey. The cold was intense throughout the 
 
 D 
 
34 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 day in fact, the first was the worst day we had 
 all the way up. 
 
 We had now come into the mining country, and 
 the character of the landscape just to the north 
 of the town where the great Persberg iron mines 
 lie, was bleak and barren in the extreme. A 
 mining district is always dreary enough, and as 
 we drove by these mines in the morning, and 
 looked down the dark yawning chasms, which we 
 passed within a few feet, icicles twenty feet long 
 hanging down from their sides, I fairly shuddered, 
 for a slip of the horse's feet on the ice-covered 
 road might have precipitated us down a pit many 
 hundred feet deep. 
 
 The next day was a kind of holiday, a sort of 
 "bye Sunday," of which they have many in 
 Sweden during the course of the year ; not that 
 anybody appears to consider it a religious day, 
 but only a sort of excuse for knocking off work 
 and wearing their Sunday clothes. The weather 
 was fine and clear, and as soon as we had left the 
 iron mines a much prettier country opened upon 
 our view ; and on this day we passed through the 
 only really deep forest on our road. The sledging 
 was first-rate, but we made a poor day's journey, 
 for, on arriving at a very pretty village (a thing 
 rather unusual to see in Sweden) called Gulsjo, 
 where we had excellent night- quarters at a first- 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 35 
 
 rate inn, we discovered that my lad had lost his 
 gun on the road, and I had to send him back to 
 look after it. He returned at midnight, but with- 
 out the gun, which had been left at Philipstad, 
 and I recovered it afterwards with a broken stock. 
 We left at five next morning, the air clear and frosty, 
 22 cold, Celsius (about 8 below zero Fahr.), and 
 we this day passed through the finest and prettiest 
 country we saw during our whole journey ; and 
 although now the landscape was covered with a 
 sheet of snow, it was easy to guess what it must 
 be in the summer. Fine, clean, well-built gentle- 
 men's seats, iron-foundries, and neat farmhouses 
 studded the whole face of the country ; and the 
 jolly " brukspatrons," or owners of the foundries, 
 and the well-fed, well- clothed peasants, whom we 
 met on the road, proved that we were now travel- 
 ling through one of the richest districts in Sweden. 
 We made about fifty miles this day, and at night 
 slept in a very comfortable inn at a little place 
 called Bomarsbo. We had now come into Dale- 
 carlia, a province renowned in past ages for the 
 loyalty, and at the present day for the industry 
 and honesty, of its inhabitants. This is, I believe, 
 the only province in Sweden which owns a national 
 costume. The people are great pedlars, and go 
 throughout the whole country with their goods ; 
 and no one can have travelled in Sweden without 
 
36 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 having met some of these stalwart fine-looking 
 Dalecarlians, in their sheepskin coats, knee 
 breeches, and stockings ; and the cheerful, rosy- 
 cheeked, blue-eyed Dalecarlian girls, in their 
 Bloomer dress, with red or blue stockings, trotting 
 merrily along with their packs on their backs. 
 
 The country was now magnificent. High 
 mountains covered with deep forests and but little 
 cultivated land, timber and iron being the prin- 
 cipal riches of this district. The next day we 
 started at daylight, and by dinner reached 
 Fahlun, certainly the very ugliest and dirtiest little 
 town I have ever seen in my life. It is, however, 
 the capital town in Dalecarlia, and famous for 
 being the site of the largest copper mines in 
 Sweden ; and as the traveller approaches the 
 town he needs little warning to tell him he is in 
 the vicinity of the copper mines. Every trace of 
 vegetation has been destroyed by the noxious 
 vapours of copper and brimstone. Large masses 
 of stone, the accumulation of ages, are scattered 
 over the plain in which the pits are sunk, and the 
 fumes from the piles of ore which were then being 
 calcined were most oppressive. I think I never 
 saw so complete a picture of desolation as this 
 district presented : we saw not a living creature, 
 the occupation of the men keeping them under 
 ground ; not a bird was to be seen, and the only 
 
THE JOUENEY UP. 37 
 
 sound which we heard was the shrieking and 
 groaning of the machinery from the different 
 works. The town itself seemed plague-struck ; 
 dirty little houses, the residences of the miners, 
 ran out in irregular streets up to the mouths of 
 the pits ; and as most of the houses in the town 
 were covered with sheet copper, the very air was 
 impregnated with its noisome exhalations. There 
 was, however, a very curious old church here, 
 with copper doors. As usual, I found out the 
 museum, in the town, which was in a very primi- 
 tive condition, and on my making inquiries of one 
 of the professors whether he knew how many 
 species of charr used to be met with in the lakes 
 round here, he candidly confessed that he knew 
 nothing at all about the charr, except that it was 
 an excellent fish for the table. We had to pass 
 more than half a day and a night in this very 
 nasty disagreeable little town, for the railway 
 train to Gefle only runs once a day, at 9 A.M., 
 and we arrived too late to catch this. In the 
 afternoon, for want of something to do, I walked 
 out to inspect the site of the mines ; but I will 
 not weary the reader with a description of what I 
 saw. If he has never seen a copper mine district 
 he has lost very little ; and if he has, he knows 
 exactly what I saw. I believe formerly the yield 
 of these mines was very great, something like 
 
38 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 25,000 tons of copper yearly; now, however, it 
 has gradually decreased to a quarter of that 
 amount. At nine the next morning we started 
 by the railway to Gefle, a clean, neat seaport town 
 on the Bothnia, about sixty miles to the east, and 
 by taking this route, instead of going by Stock- 
 holm, we saved a considerable bend. We reached 
 Gefle by one ; the train was slow and made many 
 stoppages, but all things were conducted with as 
 much order and regularity as on an English line. 
 I remarked that all the engines and carriages 
 were English. Gefle is one of the principal sea- 
 port towns in Sweden, containing about 9,000 
 inhabitants, well-built and clean, with neat granite 
 quays, and presents a strange contrast to the 
 dingy little town we had left in the morning. A 
 good trade is carried on in the summer, both 
 with England and America. I had two or three 
 naturalist friends in the town, upon whom I called 
 one of them a keen oologist ; and the sight of 
 his cabinet, enriched with many rare Lapland 
 eggs, given to him by the late Mr. Wooley, on his 
 way from Lapland, only made me the more anxious 
 to reach that (to the naturalist) "promised land." 
 "We were told now we should have no sledging, as 
 the roads were bad, for eight Swedish miles out 
 of the town, and such was the case. This was 
 annoying : we had hitherto travelled comfortably 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 39 
 
 enough, and our baggage rode well, for the sledges 
 were large ; and to exchange this for the shaking 
 of the peasant's cart was not a pleasant prospect. 
 However, luckily, a heavy fall of snow came on in 
 the night, and next morning on waking we had 
 the satisfaction of seeing a deep snow cover all 
 the road, and we sledged out of the town in 
 triumph. We were now on the straight high 
 road to Lapland, but with above 600 dreary miles 
 between us and Lulea. 
 
 The day was dull, the wind a cutting north- 
 easter, and glad enough was I when, about six in 
 the evening, we drove up to the door of the 
 excellent " Gast Gifure Gard" at Mo-Myske, after 
 a short day's work of only forty miles. But we 
 had had quite enough of it ; and even had day- 
 light served us, I could hardly have passed by 
 this comfortable inn, which in appearance, appoint- 
 ment, and accommodation more nearly approached 
 one of the jolly old roadside English inns of our 
 youthful coaching days than I have seen out of 
 England. We had this day passed through a flat 
 but rather pretty country, and by the roadside I 
 remarked two of the neatest new-built churches I 
 have ever seen in Sweden. But at this time of 
 the year a man does not travel in search of the 
 picturesque; the same dull monotony pervades 
 the whole landscape, and the traveller may well be 
 
40 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 excused in exclaiming, "All is barren." On the 
 road we met certainly more than 100 carts laden 
 with reindeer skins, coming down from a large fair 
 in Lyksell Lapland. 
 
 Any one who has read Bayard Taylor's "North- 
 ern Journey " will recollect his mentioning having 
 stopped at this very public-house, and being in a 
 jocular mood, and thinking, as the vulgar saw has 
 it, " to take a rise " out of the old landlord, he 
 accosted him in Arabic. However, it seemed that 
 two could play at that game ; and to Taylor's 
 astonishment he received an answer in the same 
 tongue. It appears that the landlord had spent seven 
 years in Tripoli, and, as he told Taylor afterwards, 
 had waited twenty years in this public without 
 ever meeting a guest with whom he could converse 
 in the Eastern tongue. I had a great curiosity to 
 gee this old gentleman, and upon going into the 
 kitchen on pretence of seeing my dog fed, I met 
 one of the finest, halest, and most venerable white- 
 headed old men I have ever seen. Had he been 
 seated cross-legged on an ottoman, with a pipe in 
 his mouth and a turban on his head, I could well 
 have fancied myself in the presence of the Dey of 
 Algiers himself. I took off my cap, and making a 
 low salaam, accosted him with " Allah Akbar." He 
 stared with astonishment, and exclaimed in Swedish, 
 " What, another Arabian!" But before he could 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 41 
 
 answer I addressed him in English, of which lan- 
 guage he was perfect master in fact, he spoke 
 seven languages fluently. I was invited into his 
 bar-parlour, where I dined off a capital beef- steak, 
 and a bottle of real London porter. I found the 
 old boy excellent company in fact, I never spent 
 a pleasanter evening in my life. He had evidently 
 feathered his nest well, for his house lay at the 
 junction of four roads, and I saw by his day-book 
 that more than 300 horses had gone from his inn 
 during the last month. 
 
 The next day was Sunday, and we did not 
 leave very early, for old " Allah Akbar" would 
 have a crack with me before I started. The 
 country round here was much more open in fact, 
 much the same as Wermland, and I found that 
 land was fully as dear. The ground was now 
 becoming very bare, and the patches of young rye 
 which were uncovered looked green and healthy. 
 The torses in this district are excellent, and all 
 the peasants seemed of a better class than those of 
 Wermland. In our first stage from Mo-Myske the 
 old peasant who drove my sledge was a very chatty, 
 intelligent, inquisitive old man, and hearing that I 
 was English, was very curious to know something 
 of " Ye manners and customes of ye English." We 
 conversed on various topics, till at length we 
 touched upon religion ; and after a long controversy 
 
42 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 the old gentleman turned suddenly round, and to 
 my astonishment asked me how we swore in 
 English. As he was very pressing I gave him a 
 specimen of "the nucleus of England's native elo- 
 quence." He seemed to think it not half energetic 
 enough, and he then treated me also to a Swedish 
 oath almost as long and bitter as the oath of ex- 
 communication in Sterne's " Tristram Shandy." 
 After allowing me a minute or so to see what effect 
 it would have upon me, he triumphantly turned 
 round and observed, " There, that's grim, isn't it ? 
 You can't swear like that in England;" and truly I 
 could have almost said with my Uncle Toby " I 
 could scarce have found it in my heart to curse 
 the devil so." 
 
 As we entered a little village about sundown 
 this evening, I was struck by seeing something 
 flaming red on the roadside in the distance before 
 us, and on coming up we overtook two pretty little 
 girls, dressed in full fig pork-pie hats, and. short 
 crimson cloaks ; much after the fashion, I should 
 suppose, of the two young ladies in Regent Street, 
 whose pugnacious father wrote to the Times a 
 short time back, denouncing vengeance on some 
 one or other unknown, who had insulted the young 
 ladies by staring at them. Much as such a costume 
 might have been out of place in Regent Street, it 
 seemed doubly so in these wilds, and, having no 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 43 
 
 fear of Paterfamilias before our eyes, we had a 
 good stare at the young damsels. They were worth 
 looking at, and they seemed to know it ; their red 
 healthy cheeks, bright eyes, and scarlet cloaks, were 
 quite refreshing to our eyes after having gazed so 
 long on nothing but dark pines and snow-covered 
 fields. Whoever set the fashion I can't say, but 
 I observed that there was quite a run upon these 
 pork-pie hats up here ; and to crown all, I saw 
 right up at Quickiock a great chubby Lap boy with 
 one stuck upon his bullet head. 
 
 We did not make more than forty miles this 
 day, and at night we slept at a small roadside 
 public-house where the accommodation was very 
 inferior to that of Mo-Myskie. 
 
 From Mo-Myskie the road branches off to 
 Soderhamn, another of the small seaports which 
 stand on the shores of the Bothnia ; but we 
 avoided this town, and kept the straight road on 
 to Sundswall. We reached one stage beyond 
 Hudiskwall the day we left Mo-Myskie, and the 
 little village we slept in was called " Sanna." 
 The morning we left Sanna was dreary and chill, 
 and the cold throughout the whole day intense. 
 We intended to reach Sundswall that night, which 
 we did about 11 P.M., after passing through a flat 
 but barren and wooded country, no incident on 
 the road worth recording in fact, our journey 
 
44 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 the whole way up was about as monotonous as 
 can well be imagined. The last stage into Sunds- 
 wall was two and a half Swedish miles, nearly the 
 whole way over ice, on a bight in the Bothnia ; 
 and of all the trotters I ever sat behind in Sweden, 
 I think the little mare that I had for this stage 
 was the best. She was a little, scratching, lop- 
 eared, vicious-looking thing, with a mouth like 
 iron, and the peasant who drove me said it was 
 no use trying to hold her ; so, wrapping the rope 
 reins round his wrist, he just let her go her own 
 pace. Having no watch I could not time her, 
 but, when we reached Sundswall, I looked at the 
 clock, and our second sledge came in just three- 
 quarters of an hour after us, and yet she upset us 
 three times on the road 1 However, a roll in the 
 snow breaks no bones, for, as the old song has it, 
 
 " There's more to be feared from a slip on the green, 
 Than a fall on a frozen river." 
 
 I am certain we must have done the distance well 
 under the hour, and this with a mare which no 
 one in England, to buy her by her looks, would 
 have given a five-pound note for. The chap who 
 drove me said that he would willingly take 7 
 for her. 
 
 When we got to Sundswall she was neither 
 "sick nor sorry;" he never took her from the 
 sledge, but let her stand and pick a bit of hay 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 45 
 
 which he had brought with him; and when he 
 started to go home, off she went at the same pace. 
 Truly these little Swedish horses must be as 
 hardy as their native mountains. 
 
 On leaving Sundswall in the morning, at day- 
 break, a heavy snow was falling, but it was not 
 cold (about 8 Celsius). The country now became 
 more rugged and wild, but yet nothing like Lap 
 scenery ; in fact, the whole country by the side of 
 the Bothnia is flat, and the forests small. Fur- 
 ther in from the coast the forests are deeper, and 
 the timber heavier ; but it is not until one travels 
 many miles inland, and reaches the great dividing 
 fell range between Sweden and Norway, that the 
 traveller sees anything like real Lap scenery. 
 Sundswall seemed to be a pretty little town, and 
 does a brisk summer trade in timber. The 
 country round is little adapted for agriculture, 
 and they have to bring nearly all their provisions 
 from Stockholm. Living is consequently dear, 
 and the price of provisions increases the further 
 we come north. A drove of Laps had wandered 
 as far down as Sundswall in the winter, and 
 camped for some time with their reindeer close to 
 the town. In the afternoon we passed through 
 Hernosand, a clean, well-built little town, but we 
 pushed on twelve miles further, and at nightfall 
 reached a little place called " Wedga," situate on 
 
46 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 the great Angerman river, which is here nearly 
 two English miles broad. On crossing this, next 
 morning a new scene broke upon our view ; the 
 country became wilder and wilder, and, in the 
 summer, must be as beautiful as any in Europe. 
 Mountains, clothed with forests, overtopped each 
 other, and the deep gullies which lay between 
 them forcibly reminded me of Australia. I was 
 struck with the fine gentlemen's houses which we 
 saw by the roadside ; while furnaces and water- 
 mills denoted the mineral and timber wealth of 
 this part of Sweden. Sweden is, indeed, a grand 
 country, and there must be some great misman- 
 agement that a land with such internal wealth 
 should be so poor. 
 
 Although the country around seemed little 
 adapted to agriculture, they do manage to grow 
 some wheat and rye, both of which must be sown 
 by the middle of June. I saw sheep at nearly 
 every place where we stopped, and at one observed 
 a primitive and curious mode of threshing. The 
 corn is spread out on the floor of a long, narrow 
 shed, and a horse draws a kind of machine, very 
 much resembling a patent clod-crusher, backwards 
 and forwards, which knocks out the grain. A 
 great deal of linseed is sown here, which, when 
 cut, is not carried into the house, but hung up to 
 dry on the cross-bars of what appears to be a 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 47 
 
 gigantic six-barred gate, about twenty feet high. 
 "We now began to see fire-places in all the cow- 
 byres ; and on this day I noticed the last goose- 
 berry tree, which appeared to grow further north 
 in the gardens than any other fruit. The country 
 appeared to be well peopled, and the peasants well 
 fed and clothed. At a little village, called Aksta, 
 we passed by the most curious little church I ever 
 saw, and close by it a house, with, I am sure, as 
 many windows in it as there are days in the year. 
 The last twelve miles of our journey, this day, lay 
 over a bay by the side of the Bothnia ; and it was 
 here that we saw the first drove of reindeer. There 
 were about 400 of them, attended by a Lap 
 family, all on " skiddor," or snow-skates ; and they 
 were seeking pasture. Their little sledges, spears 
 in fact, all their worldly gear were piled up 
 together on the ice. The men were wild, gipsy- 
 looking fellows, by no means so small as I had 
 expected to see. They formed altogether a wild, 
 picturesque group, which I longed for an artist's 
 talent to depict. They told us to hurry on, for 
 the reindeer were fast heading to the fells a sure 
 sign that spring was at hand. This was by far 
 the worst night we were out in, for we faced a 
 cutting north-east wind, and the drifting snow 
 nearly blinded us. By midnight we reached our 
 night-quarters, at a little place called Horniis, so 
 
48 A SPRING -AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 completely frozen, that my legs and arms were 
 paralyzed. We were half an hour before we could 
 knock the people up, and when we did get in there 
 was no fire in our room, and no supper to be had. 
 So we just cast ourselves on the bed in our clothes, 
 and lay till morning. Any shelter was better than 
 being out on so wild a night. I quite pitied the 
 peasant lad who had to take our sledges back, but 
 he did not seem to care a pin, and he had no 
 great- coat. In the night the weather completely 
 changed ; and when we started in the morning it 
 was as mild as spring. I saw the first northern 
 jay this day. By breakfast we arrived at a little 
 sea-port, called Ornskoldsvik certainly one of 
 the prettiest little places (half town and half vil- 
 lage) we passed through on our road up ; and in 
 summer it must much resemble one of the secluded 
 little bathing villages we see on the English coast. 
 It seemed quite an oasis in the desert, and the 
 only wonder is how such a sweet little spot ever 
 got into this wilderness. I ferreted out a jolly 
 baker here, who understood a little English, of 
 whom we bought some pork for the road, for 
 which we paid 9d. per Ib. (the price in Wermland 
 is 3d.) But, if pork was dear, game was cheap 
 enough : the price they asked for a large caper- 
 cailzied cock being Is., and for a willow grouse 2d. 
 We now began to see at every station that 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 49 
 
 peculiar breed of thick- coated dogs, whose skins 
 are valued so much in the north for lining cloaks 
 or " pells." They appear to be peculiar to this 
 district, are not unlike an Esquimaux dog in 
 appearance, but the coat is very fine and thick, 
 and of a rich black-brown colour. They are evi- 
 dently a very different race from the little prick- 
 eared, mangy-looking curs which the Laps use 
 to guard their reindeer; nor are they identical 
 with the little, stumpy, pointed-nosed, curly-tailed 
 bear-dogs, which show such sagacity and pluck in 
 the chase of old Bruin. They all appeared to be 
 in excellent condition, as sleek as moles, but seem 
 to be of little or no use when living. There is 
 something very repulsive in the idea, especially to 
 a sportsman, in fattening so faithful and useful a 
 companion as the dog to slaughter him merely 
 for the sake of the skin. We slept this night at a 
 little place called Lefuar, in certainly the finest inn 
 we had entered on the road, with carpeted floors 
 (a thing most unusual even in the Swedish gentle- 
 men's houses), and a travellers' room, furnished 
 as well as any parlour in England. In fact, the 
 further north, the better appeared to be the inns ; 
 but none came up to this. They, however, did 
 not forget to charge, and I paid 2s. for a bottle of 
 English porter. The last stage into Lefuar was 
 about nine English miles ; and as we were waiting 
 
50 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 for our sledges, a gentleman who was just starting 
 for that place politely offered me a seat in his 
 sledge. This I gladly accepted, as much for the 
 sake of the company as anything, and we started 
 long before the other sledge was ready (which, by 
 the way, was driven by a remarkably handsome 
 peasant girl ; and this circumstance probably 
 accounted for my mates not reaching Lefuar till 
 nearly two hours after myself). Arrived at Lefuar, 
 I could not do less than stand a bottle of punch 
 for my ride, for I could not think of offering post 
 money to a gentleman. When the bottle was out, 
 I thought he would go home, for the sledge stood 
 at the door, and he lived a short distance from 
 the inn. However, he loitered about the room ; 
 so, fancying he would like to "wet the other 
 eye," I proposed another half bottle, which, how- 
 ever, he refused, but remarked that it was the 
 post-money (Is. 8d.) which he was waiting for. 
 This would have seemed strange in England ; but 
 these sons of the north are " practical men." I 
 remember, in my day, that the rule of the road at 
 home used to be that the odd man should pay 
 " the pikes" for his ride ; and as there are no toll- 
 bars here, I reckoned the punch instead. 
 
 When we left next morning at day-break, 
 although the thermometer only showed 2 of cold, 
 Celsius (28 1 Fahr.), the wind was more cutting 
 
THE JOUENEY UP. 51 
 
 and bitter than ever I remember it, and, coming 
 from the N.E., we had it right in our teeth. But 
 we had a good sign that mild weather was at 
 hand, in the blackcock, which sat perched in the 
 birch-trees by the roadside, and would scarcely 
 fly away, although we drove close by them, very 
 different from their wild habits, when they are 
 waiting for cold. I saw two woodlarks fly over, 
 and I observed a sparrow with a straw in his 
 beak, evidently nesting. The country was barren, 
 the woods stunted, and the landscape wore the 
 same monotonous aspect throughout the whole 
 day. At a small road- side station we got three 
 cups of coffee and a large basin of warm bread- 
 and-milk (the very best thing to travel on in cold 
 weather), for 4d. In the afternoon we passed 
 through Umea, a little, dirty old town, with a 
 remarkably fine white church, and the largest 
 prison I have seen in the north. I take it, neither 
 are ever full. We had now above 150 dreary 
 miles before us ere we reached the next town, 
 Piteii. We pushed on this day, and did our 
 seventy miles, for the roads were getting bad, 
 and I was much afraid that the frost was break- 
 ing up. In fact, many of the little trout streams 
 which we crossed were open in places; and I 
 must say, often, when we were sledging over the 
 ice, I felt very ill at ease ; for the ice always begins 
 
52 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 to thaw under the water, and in patches, so that, 
 although it appears perfectly safe to the eye, a 
 sledge may pop through without any previous 
 warning ; and then, where are you ? I care 
 nothing for open water ; but I have a great fear of 
 being taken under the ice. I think no journey 
 can be so dreary as over a frozen lake perhaps 
 six English miles the monotony of the view only 
 broken by the fir branches, which are stuck up on 
 each side to mark the line of road. Many lives are 
 yearly lost in the north, just when the ice is break- 
 ing up ; and the recklessness of these peasants at 
 this time is past belief. At midnight we reached 
 a little village called Deckneboda, where we got 
 capital night-quarters, and our whole expenses not 
 more than 2s. When we left at five next morning 
 we found that it had frozen hard in the night, 
 and the snow carried well. Bad horses, however, 
 throughout the whole day; the country flat and 
 ugly ; and I was not sorry when at night we pulled 
 up at a little village called Burea, after having 
 done our fifty English miles. The cold was 
 intense, and I quite envied the hardihood of the 
 little peasant lads who drove us. They had no 
 fur cloaks or comforters sometimes no gloves 
 and yet they were merry and cheerful, and their 
 little cheeks looked as rosy as apples. Bad as 
 the conveyances may be, it would be hard to find 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 53 
 
 a more careful or better class of drivers than these 
 lads. They have a curious fashion up here no 
 whips, but the reins about six feet longer than 
 is necessary. This answers all the purpose of a 
 whip ; and that horse must indeed be a slug who 
 won't spring when he feels this drawn across his 
 quarters. The next day was Sunday. The sun 
 rose bright and clear; the country became pnt- 
 tier; and as we neared Sunnana the splendid 
 white church of Skelleftea which place lies on 
 the other side of the river burst suddenly upon 
 our view. The fine, deep-toned bell was tolling 
 for church ; groups of well-dressed peasants were 
 standing round the door, and all at once thoughts 
 of youth and home flashed across my mind, and I 
 could hardly suppress a sigh as I thought in how 
 far different a manner, and among what far different 
 scenes, the quiet Sabbath morning of twenty years 
 ago was spent. We breakfasted at Sunnana on 
 reindeer flesh, reindeer cheese, and a bottle of real 
 Burton ale. I crossed the river to Skelleftea, to 
 call upon an old naturalist friend in that town. It 
 was nearly half an English mile across, and, seeing 
 a large crack in the ice, I had the curiosity to 
 measure its thickness. My stick showed four feet 
 and I did not touch water, for the crack did not go 
 quite through the ice ; and this was on the 5th of 
 April, when, I suppose, at home they were gather- 
 
54 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 ing cowslips and violets, and thinking that the 
 hedges were getting too blind for hunting. The 
 sledging was now becoming very bad, for less 
 snow had fallen here this year than usual, and all 
 the fields by the roadside were bare. "We saw very 
 little arable land, nothing but rough tussocky 
 meadows, filled with little sheds or barns, in which 
 they put the hay when it is made. This is a good 
 plan, for it is much easier to bring it home in the 
 winter on sledges than in the summer. As soon 
 as we left Skelleftea the country again became flat 
 and ugly ; a deep snow set in towards the after- 
 noon, and, had there been anything worth seeing 
 by the roadside we could not have seen it, for we 
 were quite blinded by the falling snow. We did 
 little more than forty miles this day, and at night 
 slept at laful, where we had humble but very com- 
 fortable night quarters. "We were now only about 
 twelve miles from Pitea, and less than fifty from 
 Lulea, which town we meant to reach by the 
 following night. 
 
 Next morning, when we left, we found that a 
 deep snow had fallen in the night, and the sledging 
 was first-rate. We reached Pitea by breakfast time 
 -a dingy, little, old town, with neither a barber 
 nor a bookseller in it, both of whom I much 
 wanted to consult. There was, however, as good 
 an inn here as any country inn in England, and 
 
THE JOUKNEY UP. 55 
 
 English porter and reindeer venison was our bill 
 of fare. As usual, the coffee-room was filled with 
 well-dressed men, though the hour was early. It 
 seems to me that all the business in these little 
 country towns is transacted in the public-houses. 
 We pushed on through a country remarkable for 
 nothing but its ugliness, and reached New Lulea 
 (which lies a Swedish mile nearer to the sea than 
 the old town) by three in the afternoon. It is a 
 curious fact, but it appears that the waters of the 
 Bothnia have so much receded, that the old town 
 of Lulea, which now stands a Swedish mile from 
 the new town, was at one time the port, and the 
 sea then was had over the site of the present town 
 of New Lulea. When we set off I had hardly 
 made up my mind which part of Lapland I would 
 visit ; but, as I had an introduction to a good old 
 doctor in Lulea, who knew Lapland well, I deter- 
 mined to act upon his advice. When I called upon 
 him in the evening, he strongly recommended 
 Quickiock as easy of approach, and a good station 
 for the naturalist. For Quickiock, therefore, I 
 determined to steer. This place lies about two 
 hundred English miles due west from Lulea, right 
 under the great dividing fell range between Norway 
 and Sweden. We rested the whole day in Lulea, 
 and we needed it, as we had now been fifteen days 
 on the road. Nothing much to see in this little 
 
56 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 town. We made the acquaintance here of a jolly 
 sporting parson, who had the cure of Old Lulea, 
 and we called and breakfasted with him on our 
 way up to Quickiock next morning. They have a 
 corps of sharpshooters up here, and I saw a stand 
 of very fair rifles at the house of the parish clerk, 
 who is chief of the company. The country around 
 Lulea looked flat and dreary, the forests stunted 
 and small ; in fact, I was altogether disappointed 
 with the landscape the whole way up nothing at 
 all like what I imagined Lap scenery would be. 
 But, hold hard I we are hardly in Lapland yet. 
 
 It was a lovely morning when we left Lulea, and 
 our whole day's journey lay over the ice. As yet 
 we had ho trouble about horses, for our road had 
 all along been on the king's highway, and the post- 
 masters up were bound to furnish us with horses 
 at day-book price. But when we reached a little 
 village called Boden, about twenty- eight miles 
 from Lulea the posting ended, and we were then 
 obliged to trust to the civility of the peasant to 
 furnish us with horses. Boden is the post town 
 for lockmock and Quickiock ; the post comes from 
 Lulea twice a week to Boden ; goes from Boden to 
 lockmock every fortnight, and from lockmock to 
 Quickiock once a month. In winter the post is 
 carried by a man on skiddor, in the summer it is 
 rowed in a boat ; and although the letters are 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 57 
 
 carried in this precarious manner for 180 miles, 
 you never hear of one being lost, and as to a mail 
 robbery, such a thing is never dreamt of. We 
 were now obliged to pay a little more for our 
 horses ; in fact, it was only by sufferance that 
 we obtained them at all, and what surprised 
 me was that the peasants did not " claw " us more 
 (to use an expressive Swedish term), for we were 
 totally dependent on them, and unless they fur- 
 nished horses, must have stayed where we were. I 
 am certain in Britain we should not have come off 
 so cheap. However, by the aid of a little " soft 
 sawder," which goes a long way with a northern 
 peasant, and an intimation that we were on a visit 
 to the priest at lockmock, we managed pretty well. 
 The word " priest " has a talismanic effect upon 
 these peasants. The day was dull and cold, but 
 the sledging Capital. We made fifty English miles, 
 and the last twelve were about the best of our 
 journey, for the horses were fresh and the whole 
 distance over the frozen Lulea river. Still no 
 signs of Lapland. But now the peasants all began 
 to speak Lap, and this day we had the first speci- 
 men of a Lap settler's cottage ; and very neat and 
 clean it was, with a carpet on the floor. We slept 
 at a place called "Suart Lo" at a peasant's house, 
 and paid 2s. for our night's quarters. When we 
 reached the house night had set in, and the full 
 
moon was ruling high in * otoudteB sky us Uue 
 as sfe^ Aft snow on the river glistening iw its soft 
 if nfflkw of diamonds w 
 ft^s a loi^f aoM--U^ Ingh 
 COTOT^I mount^ius ftoinibg OT the rirw, w for 
 tke wbote ^p^w^noe of tb oountiy irs ftsibe- 
 ax\d inoroi na(g(Qd M wad us first 
 ahrwrs mosl Iftating^ so my first 
 
 night in Lwk^LapJandiiin long be remembered 
 
 iron foundry here bdongiiig to the great QeUiTare 
 mine^ TrhiA Ke about one Irandred milo$ to the 
 north, and as I had an introdadion to the manager 
 ^ire had no diffi^i% in getting horses for the first 
 twdre miles from here. Two days more of the 
 same monotonous tnrceDing brought us to lock- 
 mock, irhkh place ire did not reach until the 
 morning of the 12th, fear ire met with a most 
 unaccommodating settler on the road, who would 
 only let us have one horse ; so we piled the bag- 
 gage in a sledge* and walked t wehre miles by its 
 side. We could not, therefore, reach lockmock 
 that night, but skpt on the road. Just round 
 lockmock the forests were deeper and better tim- 
 beared than any we had seen since weleft Sundswall; 
 in feet, the whole character of the landscape was 
 becoming more like Lapland. A lot of Laps vere 
 quartered in the cottage where we sfept, withth^r 
 

 remfeer camped outside; and in the ev< 
 room was fifed with tl^ for tliey aD flodked in 
 to have a look at the foreigner*. Our host was a 
 very nice old settler, and we hedeomfcrtaHe qwuv 
 ten. We reached lockmock by twelve next day. 
 We had now only about eighty mOes farther, and 
 
 *A^*^BMh,4l^M .^MA ^t^^^K^k f + ^*te ^VWOb,4MP MMb^V 4^+ 4fe^ 
 
 our journey was done* i* was wnner mavKe% 
 lockmock, and the place wa crowded with Lof*, 
 who had comedown to ieO their skins, etc,, and 
 buy their summer ntwassrifs; and I had a rery 
 good opportunity of observing the habiU of these 
 little vagabonds when they were out lor a spree, 
 and it is needless to say that two-thirds at them 
 were drunk, for, Eke all other buskmen, who, per* 
 haps, never see a glass of spirits for six months, 
 they do not lose their time when they come down 
 to a town or a place where spirits are to be got* 
 
 It would be scarcely worth while to 
 much space in a description of the 
 Every child often years old mnst be fiumnar with 
 their dress and their habits, from what he has 
 read; but I may add that the original Lap, in his 
 frowzy old reindeer pefls and dirty old peaked 
 blue cap, scarcely realizes the idea that we have 
 formed of the Laplander whom we have 
 depicted in story book*. In the winter 
 whole dress is formed of reindeer-skm, except tike 
 cap, which, in afl we saw, waa high, and peaked 
 
60 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 like a sugar-loaf, and of blue cloth. But I believe 
 the Laps of each district have their peculiar dress. 
 Men and women dress nearly alike; and as in 
 both the straight hair flows lankily down the back 
 and sides of the head, and as I never observed 
 any beards or whiskers among them, it is hard at 
 first sight to distinguish a man from a woman. 
 The dress is rather in Bloomer style a short 
 skin coat, generally with the hair outside, buckled 
 round the middle, and a pair of tanned reindeer 
 breeches, which fit tight round their spindled 
 shanks (and many a London groom would give a 
 year's wages if he could only sport a Laplander's 
 leg) . These breeches are fastened round the ankle, 
 and a pair of tanned reindeer boots, fashioned 
 much like a Chinese shoe, with peaked and turned- 
 up toes, are drawn over them; and a long list 
 thong, wound thickly round the top of the boot, 
 renders them nearly perfectly waterproof. What 
 surprised me was, that in the depth of winter 
 their necks are always bare ; and this is the case 
 generally throughout Sweden. They wear no 
 stockings, but in lieu thereof these boots, which 
 are roomy, and stuffed full of soft hay. This 
 keeps their feet always warm ; and the soles being 
 rather pliable, no shoe in the world could be better 
 adapted for climbing the rugged fells. Body linen 
 I don't believe they wear ; but I never examined 
 
THE JOUENEY UP. 61 
 
 one to see. They have splendid gloves, like mit- 
 tens, some of them ornamented with great taste. 
 The summer dress is much after the same fashion, 
 only the material, at least of the coat (for both 
 men and women stick to the skin breeches all the 
 year round), is of a coarse blue cloth in the richer 
 Laps ornamented with silver braid. A pair of 
 long snow-skates, or "skiddor" (without which 
 the Lap could do nothing in winter) ; a spear, 
 with a four-edged spike a foot long, as sharp in 
 the edges as a razor, on a stout six-foot aspen 
 shaft ; an old skin knapsack on his back, which 
 holds his provisions and all his small personal 
 gear; a rude case-knife at his side, and a little 
 iron pipe in his mouth form the Laplander's 
 winter equipment. The sledges very much re- 
 semble a small boat cut off in the middle just 
 large enough to hold one ; and although I suppose 
 they know their own business best, I fancied I 
 never saw worse-planned harness than that which 
 fastens the reindeer to these sledges, for they 
 have no shafts, and the driver seems not to have 
 the slightest power of guiding his animal ; and if 
 you asked a Lap, at starting, which way he was 
 going, he might well answer you like the Cam- 
 bridge youth when he mounted his tandem 
 " Can't tell ask my leader." The driver is 
 obliged to have a short pole in his hand like a 
 
62 A SPRING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 sprit, to keep the sledge on its balance, which 
 goes jolting along, now over on one side, now on 
 the other ; and what with steering his reindeer and 
 keeping his sledge upright, he has plenty to do. 
 He is so packed in with skins, that he is part and 
 parcel of the sledge, and if he upsets he can't roll 
 out. It is rare fun to see, when a sledge does go 
 over, how viciously the reindeer turns round to at- 
 tack the driver, or sets off at full speed, dragging 
 sledge and man along in one confused heap through 
 the snow, in spite of all the latter 's oaths and im- 
 precations, which a foreign tongue appears to^the 
 English ear to make "still more horrid and 
 awful." I never rode in one of the sledges, and 
 when I saw the Laps start from lockmock, on 
 their homeward journey to the fells, I did not fancy 
 that I had lost much. 
 
 There was nothing picturesque in the appear- 
 ance of lockmock, seen as it was by us in its 
 winter dress; but when we returned in the 
 summer it looked very different. A cluster of 
 little, low wooden houses stuck up here and there 
 without any regularity, and half the village seemed 
 to consist of empty sheds for the accommodation 
 of the Laps when they come down from their 
 distant homes to the church three or four times in 
 the year. The parish of lockmock is twenty 
 Swedish miles long and three broad, so that many 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 63 
 
 of the 'Laps and settlers have far to come to 
 church ; and this is the case with most of these 
 northern parishes, for between Umea and Pitea we 
 passed peasants' carts on the Friday afternoon 
 travelling to church on the following Sunday. 
 The northern peasant is not over religious, but 
 there are certain holy days in the year when he 
 would as soon miss his dinner as his visit to the 
 church, and then no distance stops him. 
 
 The church at lockmock was a curious, eight- 
 cornered, old wooden building, and clos,e to it stood 
 the " watch-house." What on earth they could 
 want for such a building in this wild track I could 
 not make out, certainly not to put the drunken 
 Laps in, for the church would scarcely have held 
 them. 
 
 We took up our quarters with the priest, a 
 real, nice little specimen of a Lap pastor. He had 
 been located in Lapland forty years, and his whole 
 little world seemed truly to be centred in this rude 
 spot. Save one journey down to Lulea, he told me 
 he had never left lockmock, for, as the poor old 
 man observed, " travelling is expensive. I can't 
 go down to Lulea and back under 50s." Still he 
 seemed happy and contented, and if it is true that 
 a man's children are his greatest riches in this 
 world, and that he is most happy who " has his 
 quiver full of them,' ' I take it my old friend must have 
 
64 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 been among the happiest of mortals, for he had 
 managed not only to bring into the world, but 
 respectably to bring up, eighteen children on an 
 income of perhaps less than 50 a year, and a 
 finer, healthier sample than those which he had at 
 home I never saw. I did not indulge my curiosity 
 so far as to inquire exactly what his real income 
 might be, but he told me that in his parish were 
 about eighty Laps, each family of whom pay him 
 yearly two pairs of gloves, 201b. of reindeer meat, 
 two squirrel- skins, and a reindeer cheese. Besides 
 this, he had his house and a little bit of land$ and 
 I suppose what few settlers there are in his 
 parish all pay him a trifle. 
 
 Musing on the inequality of earthly riches, I 
 strolled down the village street in the afternoon, 
 and, as I saw all the Laps hurrying towards the 
 church, I thought I might as well look in also, 
 and here I saw a sight which I would not have 
 missed for a trifle. Although not Sunday, there 
 was a kind of bye-service on this afternoon, for 
 the special benefit of the Laps who would wish to 
 receive the sacrament before they departed to 
 their native fells. 
 
 The church was fall of Laps, and, although 
 here and there I saw as fine a young fellow as I 
 would wish to meet, the major part of them were 
 little, brown, weather-beaten pigmies, standing 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 65 
 
 about five feet nothing, all clad in real Lap 
 costume. Has it ever been the reader's luck to 
 attend a benefit at a low fighting-house in London, 
 and take a note of the countenances of the smaller 
 class of fighting men who form the principal actors 
 in the scene ? If so, he can form a very good idea 
 of the general character of Lap physiognomy. One 
 and all seem to have been cast in the same pugil- 
 istic mould bullet heads, high cheek-bones, low 
 foreheads, bright sunken eyes, and flattened noses. 
 In fact, if they had only been cropped close, and 
 dressed in tight trowsers and Newmarket coats, I 
 would have challenged all London to have picked 
 out a bunch of more thoroughpaced-looking little 
 blackguards than I could have collected from this 
 congregation. The women were ranged in pews 
 on one side, the men on the other (and tins is the 
 fashion in all the Swedish churches), and, except 
 that the former kept their high-peaked sugar- 
 loafed caps on during the service, you could see 
 little difference between the two. None of these 
 ladies could boast of much personal attraction 
 their countenances being exactly like those of the 
 men, and quite as brown and knotty. But there 
 was one face, which peeped down from the gallery, 
 from which I could hardly take my eyes, and 
 which even haunts me to this day. It was that 
 of a little flaxen-haired Lap girl, about seven years 
 
 V 
 
66 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 old, and a sweeter or more clierub -looking face I 
 never set my eyes on, and the little blue-peaked 
 cap, braided with silver, perched jauntily on her 
 head, gave a lively kind of expression to perhaps 
 the sweetest face I ever saw in my life. I never 
 yet saw a child so beautiful as this wild Lap, and 
 a painter might have made his fortune if he could 
 only have transferred the expression of that coun- 
 tenance to his canvas. Certainly there can be 
 no truth 'in breeding if such a little angel came 
 from the rough stock that filled the body of this 
 church. The service passed off quietly enough 
 the communion began, and a curious sight it was 
 to see these little vagabonds run along the tops of 
 the pews, like so many rats on a plank, in hot 
 haste to reach the altar ; and now commenced a 
 scene such as I never witnessed in the house of 
 God, and trust I shall never witness again. It 
 seems that within the last few years a kind of 
 fanaticism has crept in among these Laps, and 
 the word of God, instead of " pouring oil upon a 
 bruised spirit," as everyone is taught to believe 
 who will read the Scriptures aright, only fills 
 them with imaginary terrors, and, far different 
 from the creed of the real Christian, they seem to 
 think the best atonement they can make for their 
 sins lies in outward show. I have seen a little of 
 this kind of humbug in other churches in Sweden, 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 67 
 
 where at certain parts of the service the women 
 all commence groaning and sobbing so loud that 
 you can scarcely hear the clergyman. This, how- 
 ever, soon passes off, and is scarcely worth notice. 
 These Laps, however, must have been far more 
 susceptible, or far more wicked, for all at once, 
 when the communion service began, two or three 
 women sprung up in different parts of the church, 
 and commenced frantically jumping, howling, 
 shrieking, and clapping their hands. I observe! 
 one middle-aged female particularly energetic, and 
 who sank down in a kind of fit after about ten 
 minutes' exertion. The infection soon spread, 
 and in a few minutes two-thirds of the congrega- 
 tion "joined in the cry," and all order was at an 
 end. Five or six would cluster round one indivi- 
 dual, hugging, kissing, weeping, and shrieking till 
 I really thought some would be smothered. One 
 old patriarch in particular, who sat close behind 
 me, seemed an object of peculiar veneration, and 
 the Laps crowded from all parts of the church to 
 hug him. How he stood it I can't imagine ; but 
 he sat meekly enough, and at one time I counted 
 no less than seven " miserable sinners" hanging 
 about the old man, all shrieking and weeping. 
 The religious orgies of the wild aborigines in 
 Australia round their camp fire are not half so 
 frightful as this scene, for they at least do not 
 
68 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 desecrate a place of worship with their mad 
 carousals. As the Yorkshireman would say, "I 
 fairly trimblcd" lest my turn should come next ; 
 or I might even have been regarded as a heathen 
 by these poor deluded wretches (for I was a 
 foreigner and did not communicate), and there 
 is no saying to what excesses their fana- 
 ticism might have led them. I had quietly en- 
 sconced myself in a comfortable pew furthest 
 from the door, and to bolt would have been im- 
 possible. Strange as it may appear to the English 
 reader, I must say I felt great satisfaction in 
 having my revolver in my pea-jacket pocket ; and 
 my fears were not altogether groundless, for it is 
 not long ago that the Laps, in just such a fit of 
 fanaticism as this, barbarously murdered one if 
 not two settlers up at the altar, flogged the priest 
 nearly to death with willow rods, and would have 
 taken his life if assistance had not arrived. Mean- 
 while, during all this uproar, the priest went on 
 with the communion service as if nothing was 
 taking place, the clerk and the choristers kept up 
 their monotonous chants amid such an uproar as 
 I'll be bound to say was never before heard in a 
 place of worship. I would give something to see 
 the countenance of a fashionable London beadle if 
 the spirit was suddenly to move his congregation 
 in this way ; and if it is true, as these fanatics tell 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 69 
 
 us, tliat when the spirit moves them they can't 
 help it, such a scene is as likely to occur in St. 
 George's, Hanover-square, as in tin's wild Lap 
 church. Had they been drunk I should not have 
 been much surprised, but they all appeared per- 
 fectly sober ; and it only proves how dreadfully 
 religious fanaticism can work upon the human 
 mind when we see it convert these Laps pro- 
 bably the most apathetic and cold-blooded racv 
 under the sun into a lot of maniacs. The riot 
 never once ceased till the service had ended ; and 
 I must confess that I felt well pleased when I 
 found myself once again outside the door of the 
 church. The priest told me that this fashion had 
 only crept upon these Laps within the last few 
 years. 
 
 We stayed at lockmock over the Sunday ; and, 
 as we were now only about eighty miles from 
 Quickiock, we hired horses for one rixdaler per mile 
 to take us through the whole distance. We left 
 on the Monday morning. Our whole day's jour- 
 ney lay over ice, and, after passing through a wild 
 but fur prettier country than we had yet seen, we 
 came at night to a place called Granudden, about 
 half way, where we slept. We paid os. 6d. for 
 our night's lodging, supper, and breakfast. The 
 lodging was very comfortable, and the people civil 
 and obliging in fact, we found this the case the 
 
70 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 whole way up. The next morning was mild but 
 hazy. The loud, hoarse cackle of the ripa was 
 heard in every wood, and the Siberian jay was 
 now our constant companion. Spring was evi- 
 dently fast setting in. "When we left in the morn- 
 ing I saw something indistinctly looming in front 
 of us, in the distant horizon, which I at first took 
 to be huge masses of cloud, but my driver, point- 
 ing with his whip, exclaimed, " There are the 
 fells !" Just now the mist cleared away, and the 
 distant snowfells gradually became more distinct, 
 rising above each other like huge billows of ice 
 upon a frozen sea I now felt that I was in Lap- 
 land ; that I had realized the heartfelt wish of 
 years ; and that I had at length reached a country 
 possessing more attractions to the naturalist than 
 perhaps any other in Europe. The nearer we 
 approached Quickiock the grander became the 
 scenery ; and now Waldi Speken the highest fell 
 in this range towered many hundred feet above 
 the rest, like an enormous sugar-loaf. It was 
 perhaps the sudden manner in which these fells 
 appeared to burst upon the view that added much 
 to the grandeur ; and I will fairly confess that, for 
 once in my life, reality far exceeded anticipation. 
 
 No steeple-chase rider ever looked more 
 anxiously over the course which he is about to 
 cross than my lad and myself did over the country 
 
THE JOUKNEY UP. 71 
 
 as we neared Quickiock. "Let's see the field 
 and mark it well, for here will be the battle." 
 This was to be our station for months. We knew 
 nothing of the fauna of the district, and it 
 remained to be proved what rarities we should 
 find in the solitudes of the forests and fells in 
 which this little village is embedded. The country 
 certainly looked unpromising at present. The 
 woods were small, and the huge snow-capped fells 
 rising above the limits of all vegetation, seemed to 
 offer no fitting home for any other bird than the 
 ptarmigan; but we little imagined how the whole 
 face of the country would change as by magic 
 when spring once fairly set in, for it seemed to us 
 almost an impossibility that in a few weeks these 
 huge snow masses would " dissolve in silent dew," 
 and the river which we were now crossing over a 
 coat of ice four feet thick would be all open water. 
 About three we drove up to the little village of 
 Quickiock, and our long, monotonous journey was 
 at an end. The village itself has not much to 
 boast of except its naturally beautiful situation, 
 which in summer is about as romantic as can well 
 be imagined. Four dwelling-houses constitute the 
 whole village, but, as is always the case in the 
 north, there are so many outhouses, sheds, and 
 buildings, attached to each dwelling, that one 
 house with its offices seems to form half a village. 
 
72 A SEEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 Nothing can be uglier than the generality of the 
 northern 'villages, and it really seems as if man 
 tried all he could to mar the beauty of the land- 
 scape when he sets up his dwelling-house here. 
 The farm-houses are in general low, built of wood, 
 painted either a flaming red colour, or else miser- 
 ably dilapidated, and the roof or thatch scarcely 
 ever in repair. The out-houses, cow-houses, 
 barns, granaries, etc., are all huddled together, 
 stuck here, there, and everywhere, without the 
 slightest order ; and those offices which in general 
 we endeavour in England to keep as much out of 
 sight as possible, always in the most conspicuous 
 place, often right in front of the parlour window. 
 Quickiock was no exception to the general rule. 
 There is a little more fashion about the gentle- 
 men's houses, some of which for neatness of build- 
 ing and the taste in which the grounds are laid 
 out, would equal any in England ; but even here the 
 condition and position of the outhouses often spoils 
 the effect. The country around Quickiock in the 
 summer is perhaps as beautiful as any in Lapland, 
 for the village lies in a valley on the banks of a 
 magnificent river, surrounded on all sides by 
 forests and fells. But there is as much difference 
 between Quickiock in its winter dress and Quick- 
 iock in its summer dress as there is between a 
 withered old French dowager in her morning 
 
THE JOURNEY UP. 73 
 
 dishabille and curl-papers, and the same old lady 
 " figged" out in the evening in opera costume. 
 The fells do not, however, long wear their summer 
 livery, and the Spaniard was perhaps not so far 
 wrong when he described the climate of the north 
 as six months white winter, three months black 
 winter, and three months green winter. 
 
 The dull haze of a winter's afternoon (for 
 although it was the middle of April it was just as 
 much winter here as December in England) hung 
 over the village, and the whole prospect looked 
 cheerless enough as we drove on the ice up to the 
 priest's house, which was to be our head-quarters 
 for the season. We had now come as far into the 
 country as we could on sledge, and we could not 
 have travelled a Swedish mile further if we had 
 wished, anyhow except on foot. 
 
 To sum up our journey, we left Gardsjo on 
 March 24, and reached Quickiock on April 16, 
 1 laving been little more than three weeks on the 
 road; and although the journey at this time of 
 the year is very monotonous, with but little change 
 of scene, it was far less troublesome than I had 
 imagined it would have been. We met with every 
 attention on the road, and good night- quarters 
 and excellent provisions wherever we stopped. 
 The distance in all was a little more than 1,000 
 English miles. About fifty miles per day was our 
 
74 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 general journey, and although we could perhaps 
 have done a little more by travelling at night, it 
 was hardly worth our while. It certainly was sad 
 crawling work, and I suppose old Mountjoy in his 
 best day would have walked up in less time. I 
 reckoned that the expenses of the three and the dog 
 averaged 6s. per day, and the posting came to 
 about Is. 2d. the Swedish mile for each sledge. 
 Altogether the journey up cost us near 25. The 
 horses and sledging were pretty good throughout. 
 Luckily we had no rain, but the cold at times was 
 intense. We had scarcely an incident on . the 
 road worth recording, and the scenery through 
 which we passed on the whole journey may be 
 summed up in three words, " Snow and pines." 
 We found the posting stations in the north far 
 superior to those in the middle of Sweden, and 
 the living appeared to become better the further 
 north we came. 
 
 I could not help remarking how very few birds 
 of any description we saw on our road up one 
 Ural owl, one blackcock, and one Siberian jay 
 were all that we shot, and we always had a loaded 
 gun ready in the sledge, but neither heard of nor 
 saw a single wolf. 
 
 We got capital quarters in the priest's house 
 at the rate of one rixdaler banco, or Is. 8d. per day 
 for each man. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 LAPLAND. 
 
 As we are now in Lapland, before I touch upon 
 the natural history of the country, I will make a 
 few remarks on life in Lapland in general. 
 
 When I set off for my Lap trip, I had made 
 my mind up to two things the first was that wo 
 should have to "rough it," and live upon bark 
 bread and reindeer cheese ; the other, that our 
 living would cost next to nothing, and that one 
 rixdaler would go further in these wild regions 
 than two in "Wermland. In both these surmises I 
 was egregiously mistaken. Nowhere in Sweden 
 have I found better quarters than with the priest 
 at Quickiock (in fact, all things were far too fine 
 for a collector, whose room can never be kept 
 clean) ; but nowhere, except in towns, have I 
 found living dearer, or paid so much for a day's 
 wages to men whom I had to help me. 3s. per 
 day was the wages I paid to men up here to do 
 the same work as the Wermland peasant will for 
 !>-. Is. 8d. a day for board and lodging does not 
 scorn much to an Englishman nor is it ; but I 
 
76 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 can live equally well in Wermland for Is. : and as 
 our principal fare here consisted of game and fish, 
 which were to be had for the fetching, it was quite 
 enough. It is true groceries were dear, as all 
 have to be brought up from Lulea, and rye may 
 be quoted as dear again as in Wermland. As to 
 bark bread, I never saw it ; and reindeer cheese 
 we scarcely ever tasted. 
 
 And now the reader must bear in mind that, 
 although I am giving him an idea of life in Lap- 
 land, I perhaps saw as little of Lapland as any 
 man who has travelled up there. I was obliged 
 to be stationary in one spot the whole time. I 
 rarely wandered more than three Swedish miles 
 from Quickiock, and my occupation kept me much 
 indoors, for I skinned more than 1,000 specimens 
 during four months, besides collecting a great 
 many eggs and butterflies. My hints are there- 
 fore chiefly intended to assist any naturalist who, 
 like myself, wishes to visit Lapland, and remain 
 stationary in one spot for the purpose of collect- 
 ing, more than for the man who pays a flying visit 
 to the country merely for the purpose of seeing 
 the land and the character of its inhabitants. 
 
 As to living, our bill of fare for the table was 
 not very varied. While the snow lay on the 
 ground we lived on dried reindeer venison and 
 ptarmigan, both about as dry and tough as a 
 
LAPLAND. 77 
 
 gamekeeper's old leather gaiter; and when the 
 river opened we tasted nothing but fish until the 
 young ducks came in. Fresh meat such as beef 
 or mutton we never saw. It is true the fish 
 were of the best kind trout, charr, and gwynniad ; 
 and, doubtless, a London alderman would vote 
 such a bill of fare as "none so bad;" but, toujourx 
 perdrix. Moreover, everything was plain boiled, 
 and we scarcely ever got a vegetable. A good 
 cook might have made something out of such 
 materials ; but condiments of all kinds, save salt, 
 were wanting; and I should strongly recommend 
 every English traveller who visits these remote 
 regions to bring up with him a little Cayenne 
 pepper and a bottle of "Burgess's Original;" 
 and, above all, if he be a smoker, to provide him- 
 self with some real cavendish before leaving Eng- 
 land, for, of all the bad tobacco which I ever 
 smoked, that which we procured at Quickiock was 
 the worst in fact, the Swedish tobacco in general, 
 although cheap, is not good ; for you must put up 
 either with a sort of stuff which has no real tobacco 
 flavour, but smokes like chopped hay, or with a 
 strong, rank, roll tobacco, such as the peasants 
 chew and smoke. We had plenty of good coffee 
 (with excellent milk and cream) ; and this and 
 cold water certainly the clearest and purest I 
 ever drank in my life formed our " every- day 
 
78 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 drain." Strange to say, I never saw a drop of 
 "the cratur" the whole while I was at Quickiock. 
 The good old doctor in Lulea strongly recom- 
 mended us to freight up a few bottles of cognac, 
 and take a " nip" every morning, to keep the raw 
 fell air out of our stomachs, and as an excellent 
 preventive against " diarrhoea," which, he said, 
 was very prevalent in Lapland ; but I knew, from 
 old experience, how long such a kind of medicine 
 would last in the bush, and how apt the stomach 
 is to be out of order with so palatable a remedy 
 at hand : so I took up instead a pound of English 
 salts, which was recommended as a secondary 
 specific, and, strange to say, I was never once 
 asked for a dram, and I left them behind just as I 
 brought them up. I wonder how it would have 
 been with a case of French brandy ! 
 
 It is all very well to visit Lapland for a few 
 summer months, and know that you can leave the 
 country when you are tired of it ; but, somehow 
 or other, I should not like to live here my whole 
 life. The same monotonous scenery. North, 
 south, east, and west, the view was shut in by 
 barren fells, the tops of most of them covered with 
 perennial snows. It is strange how soon one tires 
 of this kind of wild scenery. There are pastoral 
 landscapes in Old England upon which one is 
 never weary of gazing; and even if a man's life 
 
LAPLAND. 79 
 
 be spent among them, lie can always find some 
 new feature in the landscape which he never 
 descried before : but not so with the rugged 
 scenery of the far north. The first time such a 
 scene bursts upon the traveller's view it leaves an 
 impression which he probably never forgets ; but 
 the effect is sadly lessened the second time he sees 
 it; and, as the novelty wears off, the landscape 
 appears to lose half its charms. Moreover, the 
 monotony of such a life, shut out, as it were, from 
 the rest of the world, with a seven months' winter, 
 during which you can't stir out of doors unless 
 you can use the " skiddor," with not a book to 
 turn to, and a monthly post, would soon wear me 
 out. I never felt dull and weary in the Australian 
 bush, and could have passed my life there cheer- 
 fully and contentedly. The sport there was sport 
 indeed, and you shared it with men of your own 
 stamp. Frequent visitors from town to the old 
 " kangaroo tent" would bring us out an occa- 
 sional book or a newspaper, and we at least knew 
 what our old sporting friends at home were doing, 
 though we could not participate in their sports. 
 During the short time, however, that I was in 
 Lapland the time never hung heavy on my hands, 
 for I was fully occupied ; and in the spring and 
 summer, a collector here requires a day of forty- 
 eight instead of twenty-four hours. But I much 
 
80 A SPRING AND SUMMEB IN LAPLAND. 
 
 wanted a good mate. The peasant lad whom I 
 took up, however good he might be on the fell or 
 in the forest, was no companion. The good priest 
 with whom we boarded was a man of few words, 
 rather morose in his disposition ; and had it not 
 been for the jolly old parish clerk who was a 
 perfect contrast to all the rest of our neighbours, 
 and was, moreover, a bit of a collector I should 
 scarcely have had a man to speak to. Doubtless 
 the inclinations and tempers of the inhabitants of 
 every land are much affected by the climate and 
 scenery of the country in which they live, and^the 
 Lap settlers are just what you would expect men 
 to be who live for more than half the year snowed 
 in, with no companionship but their own. They 
 never see the sun during the depths of winter ; 
 and by referring to a Lap almanac, I see that it is 
 supposed to rise here on Christmas day at forty 
 minutes after ten, and to set at twenty minutes 
 after one. In describing a Lap winter to me, the 
 old clerk wound up with " For forty- two days in 
 the dead of winter we can't see to kill a bird at a 
 hundred yards with a rifle." There is nothing 
 jolly about these settlers. Men and women are 
 the same. If you speak to them you get a half 
 civil answer, but nothing more ; and although the 
 stranger is sure to be treated with civility, and, 
 no doubt, what they consider kindness, their man- 
 
LAPLAND. 81 
 
 ner is very different from the hearty welcome he 
 receives in old Wermland. Luckily, they are 
 exceedingly covetous, and will do almost anything 
 for money; so if you have but the circulating 
 medium you are sure to get all the assistance you 
 require, and anything the country affords. And 
 as a hint to the traveller, let me advise him, before 
 reaching Lapland, to change his notes into silver. 
 Small silver money will often save a rixdollar; 
 and a specie dollar, or "blank," as they call it 
 here, will rouse the apathy and greed of a Lap 
 when paper currency will have no effect. AVhh 
 plenty of silver money, and a few notes of 100 rix- 
 dollars (or 5) to fall back upon and he will 
 have no difficulty in changing them, provided that 
 they are new notes of the Stockholm bank a 
 stranger will have no trouble about money matters. 
 Although covetous to a degree, I always found 
 both settlers and Laps strictly honest; and when 
 a bargain was once made, I never knew them wish 
 to back out. 
 
 The reader will, perhaps, be curious to know 
 what these settlers do to occupy their time in a 
 country where they can scarcely reckon on more 
 than three months' summer ; and this question is 
 soon answered. Their whole life (to use a homely 
 but forcible expression of my old Australian mate) 
 appears to be one perpetual struggle for " grub." 
 
 G 
 
82 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 One-lialf of their time seems to be spent in killing 
 " ripa" or catching fish, and the other half in 
 eating them ; and I take it as we used to say 
 with the coach-horses in England that their 
 belly is their measure ; for however much fish or 
 game they took in one day, it seemed all to be 
 cleared off by night, and nothing left for the next. 
 Except when a stranger comes into the country, 
 and requires a guide or assistance, I could not see 
 that they had any means of earning money ; for 
 there is no sale for their game or fish, and every 
 man is able to do all the work he requires at his 
 own home. It is true they don't much want 
 money, for every one has his house and little patch 
 of arable land, a cow or two, a horse, and as much 
 grass for hay from the sides of the rivers and 
 lakes as he requires. But all they grow, and all 
 the fish and game which they get, is required for 
 home consumption. They can turn none of their 
 products into money ; and those who possess a 
 few reindeer eat them up all but the bones and 
 skin, which they sell for a few shillings. Some of 
 these settlers have as many as 300 or 400 reindeer, 
 many have none. These wander on the hills under 
 the charge of a Lap, to whom they pay yearly 3d. 
 for looking after each reindeer. Every one has his 
 own mark certain mysterious nicks in the ear, in 
 some as many as six or eight ; and I may add, that 
 
LAPLAND. 83 
 
 in "Wermland they disfigure the sheep in the same 
 fashion. They really and truly appear to live 
 from hand to mouth. Each one has a small patch 
 of cultivated land, on which, if the season permits 
 him, he can grow a little barley and potatoes, and 
 each one owns a few cows. Except Justin the liay 
 season ih&^ men appear to have very little to do, 
 save to fish and to shoot. Every boy of ten ; 
 old can shoot, and every man's heart here may be 
 trulysaid to be "in the forest or on the fell." All the 
 " small chares " are done by the women, who, like 
 all the women in Sweden, are most industrious, 
 and never seem to know rest ; and considering 
 they all have large families to bring up for they 
 are all very prolific they must have plenty to da. 
 But certainly the men take it remarkably easy. ! 
 never saw better smokers in my life. I used to 
 think that we blew a pretty good cloud in Australia ; 
 but we did tako the pipe out of our mouths wliilo 
 at work. 'Here the pipe follows a man like his 
 shadow, and, except when they sleep, appears to 
 be continually in their mouths. But rough as it 
 is, each one seems contented with his lot, and 
 nearest to every one's heart appears to be 
 
 " The wish which ages have not yet snbdned, 
 Of man to have no master save his mood." 
 
 As may be easily imagined, the cure of the souls 
 in a parish consisting of four families was not a 
 
84 A SPUING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 very onerous duty ; and most of tlie good priest's 
 time in the summer appeared to be occupied in 
 fishing ; in the winter, making nets. It is true, 
 once every Sunday he preached in the little village 
 church generally to a very scant congregation. I 
 have counted seven in the church ; and to do him 
 justice, I will say his sermons were befitting a far 
 better audience. On certain anniversaries the 
 Laps would come down, and then the service 
 was in Lap, and of course I did not understand 
 a word of it. He was a kind of missionary 
 among the Laps, and he had six little Lap children 
 to bring up in the ways of Christianity. Not that 
 this troubled him much, as he kept an usher or 
 schoolmaster under him. His wife was a most 
 industrious woman, and, although bred a lady, 
 worked like a servant. But this priest was a man 
 of good standing, and nephew to the celebrated 
 La3stadius, the Lap botanist. He had for some 
 years been located in Piteii, and was, in fact, in 
 point of acquirements and education on a par with 
 any northern priest I have ever met with. Acerbi,in 
 his usual quaint style, describes a priest he met with 
 some sixty years ago, up at Munio, and his descrip- 
 tion is so rich, that I give it in Ins own words: 
 " The parish of Munio is 200 miles in extent, and 
 the parson is, to all appearance, a peasant like any 
 of his flock, having nothing visible about him 
 
LAPLAND. 85 
 
 that refers to his clerical dignity except a pair of 
 black breeches. 
 
 " This poor man had the misfortune of being 
 ruined by a fire, which consumed all his household 
 furniture with his library, from which he could not 
 even save his Bible. This loss was not, however, 
 what he seemed to have felt most severely, as ho 
 observed, that after this disaster he found himself 
 eased of the burden of reading Latin. The honest 
 parson was of great use to us during our stay at 
 Munio. He was the most clownish parson 1 1 
 saw in my various travels ; but sometimes ho 
 would discourse on the abuses of birth and 
 hereditary succession, in a manner which I v 
 astonished to hear from a man who ha<J nothing in 
 the world but a shirt, a pair of breeches, and the 
 shoes on his feet. 
 
 " He was the better pleased to see travellers, 
 because they never could be any inconvenience to 
 him, since, being very ill lodged himself, it could 
 not be expected he should find them accommoda- 
 tion; and besides, by their arrival, he was sure 
 of some glasses of brandy, with which we used to 
 regale him as often as he came to see us. He 
 declared our brandy was delicious, and with each 
 glass he swallowed pronounced its eulogium in a 
 manner equally energetic and sincere. 
 
 " He told us with the most pathetic accents, 
 
86 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 that there was not a glass of brandy to be had 
 within the whole 200 square miles of his parish. 
 He told us, likewise, that drunkenness was regarded 
 by his parishioners as the most scandalous vice to 
 which man can be subject, and we could not help 
 suspecting that this was one of the causes of his 
 being so little revered and esteemed by his flock." 
 
 Old Acerbi's priest certainly formed a great 
 contrast to our Quickiock priest, who, besides 
 being a rigid disciplinarian, was a strict tee- 
 totaller. 
 
 As to the true Laps, their reindeer are their 
 only care ; and this " all-useful partner of a world 
 of snows " supplies their every want. Their whole 
 life is spent in wandering from one spot to another 
 in search of pasture. And I should say the life of 
 an Australian savage is far preferable, for he can 
 get his kangaroo and opossum without the trouble 
 of tending them, and he lives as it were in one 
 perpetual summer. During the summer the life 
 of the Laplander may be all very well ; but in the 
 winter, when the whole country is buried deep in 
 snow, it must be dreadful. It is true they build 
 up little huts, and here, as they are all huddled 
 together (men, women, children, and dogs) in one 
 common room with a fire in the middle, they are 
 warm enough indoors. Their wanderings are 
 entirely guided by their reindeer, whose instinct 
 
LAPLAND. 87 
 
 leads them in winter to seek the forests and lower 
 grounds where the snow is not so deep, and in 
 summer the highest fells, to escape the mosquitoes 
 which then swarm in the forests. There are 
 several grades among these Laps, and, unlike other 
 wild men, who have everything in common, there 
 are rich and poor among them, and their riches 
 are computed by the number of reindeer each one 
 owns. Some will probably own several hundred, 
 and the value of a reindeer is not a little. To say 
 nothing of the general utility of the animal while 
 living, in autumn thousands are slaughtered. The 
 skins they can sell for from 3.5. to 5*. each, and the 
 dried flesh is worth about 4s. for 201b. (a good 
 reindeer will weigh about 1201b. to 1501b.), and 
 the horns are boiled down for glue. Many, how- 
 ever, possess no reindeer, and these are called 
 " Fisk Lappar," generally miserably poor, living 
 by fishing or shooting, or serving their richer 
 brethren and I should say of all servitude, Lap 
 servitude was the lowest. Many of the richer Laps 
 appear fond of finery, and I have seen some, both 
 men and women, decorated with much silver about 
 their caps and girdles. But the generality of them 
 are dirty in the extreme ; they never take their 
 clothes off when they sleep, nor do I believe they 
 cast away their mangy old skin coat until it drops 
 off. That " cleanliness is next to godliness " is a 
 
88 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 golden motto ; but I cannot help thinking that 
 there must be a great deal of humbug in all our 
 sanitary reforms, wash-houses for the million, etc., 
 when I look at these dirty little fellows. I do not 
 suppose one of them ever washes his face, or 
 changes his clothes till they rot off; and yet we 
 see tough old Laps who have never had a day's 
 illness in their lives, and, although "verging on 
 threescore," can still do their thirty English miles 
 a-day over the fells, with 401b. on their backs, 
 without " turning a hair." Certainly I never saw 
 in Lapland what we used in the colony to call a 
 "clean old man;" and of all dirty old men, a 
 " Lap Gubbe " beats all. Truly, as old Acerbi 
 quaintly observes, " a certain unsavoury smell 
 attends on every Laplander," and what with their 
 blear eyes, dirty faces, unkempt hair, and old skin 
 clothes, I don't wonder at it. He, however, seems 
 to have fallen among a very bad lot, according to 
 the following description : " laziness and stupidity 
 were prominent in all the Laplanders did, in all 
 that appertained to them. The only things that they 
 were able actually to perform were to keep up an 
 everlasting chatter, to smoke their pipes, to chew 
 tobacco, and to drink brandy." Sickness is almost 
 unknown among them. When their time is up, 
 notice to quit comes without any warning ; and 
 when a Lap falls upon a bed of sickness, it is usually 
 
LAPLAND. 89 
 
 tlie bed of death. Doubtless this has been so 
 ordained by a kind Providence, who " tempers the 
 wind to the shorn lamb; 5 ' for were sickness as 
 rife in this wild land as in more civilized districts, 
 I do not know what they would do, for no medical 
 assistance is at hand here. Now and then, how- 
 ever, they get a terrible mauling from a bear, and 
 I used to see an old cripple who occasionally 
 stumped down to Quickiock, with a straight leg. 
 He was caught one cold December night in a wolf- 
 trap, which broke the bone of his leg, and he had 
 to lie through the bitter, cheerless, long winter 
 night (unable to extricate himself) till the next 
 afternoon, when the owner of t he trap came to see 
 what he had caught. Yet with a broken leg he 
 managed to crawl to the hut (three English miles 
 distant), where they set it; and the best proof of 
 their skill in surgery is, that he was left a cripple 
 for life. Poor as they are, and seldom as they 
 see money, I do not believe any men can be more 
 greedy after it ; and yet they never seem to make 
 any use of it they never part with it. What few 
 luxuries, such as coffee, sugar, tobacco, they may 
 require, they obtain by barter for their reindeer 
 skins. The reindeer cheese they seldom part with, 
 for they eat it with their coffee, of which, as well 
 as spirits and tobacco, they are passionately fond. 
 These cheeses are very dear. I paid 2s. 6d. for 
 
90 A SPUING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 one weighing 21b. : and if I had not known that it 
 was reindeer cheese, I should scarcely have dis- 
 tinguished it from a very white cream cheese. If 
 they can only get hold of a bit of silver, they value 
 it as their heart's blood ; and like the unworthy 
 servant in the parable, they never invest their 
 money to bring in any return, but if they possess 
 more than they can carry about with them, they 
 hide it in the crevice of a rock, and often forget 
 where it lies. 
 
 Many of the Laps are certainly ridiculously 
 small, and look more like large apes than men ; but 
 I have seen some very fair-sized ones among them. 
 They appear to grow smaller as they grow older. 
 Although in general the women are ugly enough, 
 you sometimes see a very pretty face, and a figure 
 as light as that of an opera dancer. That royalty 
 itself has been smitten by their charms is proved 
 by the fact that at Gellivare was (and I believe he 
 lives now) a settler who, to use the language 
 of the stud-book, was a cross between Louis 
 Philippe (who was for some time in Lapland when 
 a wanderer from his native land) and a Lap girl. 
 I never saw him, but have been told that he was 
 a fine-looking man, not unlike his reputed royal 
 father ; and they tell of another Lap girl who was 
 taken back to France by a refugee (who came over 
 here during the French Revolution) as his mistress. 
 
LAPLAND. 91 
 
 She lived in France some years, was educated and 
 clothed as a lady, but the love of her native fells 
 was too deeply rooted in her breast to be ever 
 extinguished, and after a lapse of some years she 
 left the gaieties of Paris and returned to her wild 
 mountain home so strongly is the love of home 
 implanted in the breasts of these rude mountaineers. 
 It would doubtless be interesting to trace the origin 
 of the Laplander. I can hardly fancy that they 
 are a type of the original Scandinavian race, for 
 they were all mighty warriors, and these little Laps 
 are the most harmless creatures under the sun. 
 It is very probable, however, that in earlier ages, 
 when the country was in a different state to what 
 it is at the present day, they were not confined 
 solely to these northern tracts, but probably wan- 
 dered over the whole face of the land. I fancy, 
 however, they must be of Asiatic origin, and havo 
 travelled eastward through Russian Finmark. 
 Their language is unlike any I ever heard, and I 
 could only catch one word, "porisk" (good day), 
 wliich is their usual greeting. Although the Lap 
 settlers are very little better than the Laps them- 
 selves, and speak their language well, they all 
 appear to be of Lap-Swedish origin, and I could 
 never hear of a real Lap who had ever settled down 
 as a farmer. Now, however, as Christianity is yearly 
 spreading more and more among them, and their 
 
92 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 children receive education from the priest, it is 
 reasonable to suppose that at a future day they 
 will become settled ; but as to the present genera- 
 tion, you might as well try to wean the wolf from 
 his bloodthirsty habits as to change the wandering 
 nature of the true Lap. Nevertheless, for savages 
 they certainly are a most harmless, inoffensive 
 race, and even in the stronghold of their native 
 fells a stranger has little to fear from them. 
 
 I was much amused lately by two things. The 
 first was the perusal of a little journey through 
 Lapland, in which the writer dwells long and 
 eloquently on the great benefits which might 
 accrue to Sweden by bringing the Lap mosses or 
 morasses into cultivation ; and the other was an 
 advertisement for working-men for the Great 
 Gellivare iron mines (which lie perhaps 120 miles 
 N.E. of Quickiock) , in which, as an inducement, 
 a little patch of land was offered to each man 
 who would settle and bring it into cultivation. 
 And, as a further incitement to settle, it was 
 stated that the potato disease was unknown in 
 this district. No more is the grouse disease, but 
 I hardly fancy that would be any inducement for 
 an English sportsman to come and settle so far 
 up as this for the sake of grouse shooting alone. 
 And as to the potatoes, I can only say, if the 
 Gellivare potatoes are no better than those which 
 
LAPLAND. 93 
 
 we occasionally (but very seldom) got at Quickiock, 
 it would matter little whether they were diseased 
 or not. I take it the Gellivare district is about 
 as well adapted for agriculture as Quickiock, and 
 although certainly they can grow excellent barley 
 (but it is a great question whether it ever ripens), 
 and I have even seen rye up here, it does not 
 make it an agricultural country ; it only excites 
 wonder in the mind of the stranger that any 
 cereals can be got to grow in so rude a spot and 
 in such a climate. It is, not, however, the fault 
 of the land, for I have seen as good land on tho 
 lower fells around the lakes as ever I would wish 
 to see ; and the meadow land round Quickiock is 
 excellent a deep, rich, black loam, the accumu- 
 lation of centuries. But man cannot alter the 
 climate, and, clever as he is, there are certain 
 laws laid down by old Dame Nature which he 
 never can get over. They certainly do plough 
 their lands, and I should fancy, to look at their 
 ploughs, they must be after the same fashion as 
 in the old Mosaic days. Their mode of farming 
 up here is primitive in the extreme. They just 
 scratch in their barley early in June, and set the 
 potatoes about the same time. No fear of both 
 coming to a good head, for everything grows like 
 magic here in the summer ; but it ripens scarcely 
 one year in three. Two things, however, I re- 
 
94 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 marked in Lap agriculture, which struck me as 
 curious. Every one has more dung than he can 
 use on his arable land, so he casts it on his 
 meadow ; and, although I fancied that wherever 
 a man could live a pig could, I found at length 
 that I had come to a land where " pigs won't pay 
 for feeding." We had a bit of a garden at the 
 priest's, and when the summer was not too cold, 
 they manage to grow radishes, peas, turnips, and 
 other garden-stuff, just as good as in Wermland. 
 But in the year 1862 nothing ripened. In fact, 
 I fancy things all grew too quick to be ever 
 of much good. I was, however, struck, when 
 I came up, at the good cows which I observed in 
 every cow-byre quite as good as in Wermland 
 (but quite as dear), and yielding as much milk ; 
 but my wonder ceased in the summer, when I saw 
 the crops of natural grass which these meadows 
 and lowlands produce. I have seen many worse 
 crops in the valley of the Nene ; and this proves 
 that Providence has not forgotten any of his 
 creatures, for, as long as they can feed cows up 
 here, they can always manage to live. Eye can 
 be brought up from Lulea (certainly at a cost 
 of one rixdaler per Swedish mile for the four 
 bushels, or about 3 10s. for an English quarter) ; 
 whereas, if they had no cows, they could not 
 bring up milk, and as milk and porridge forms 
 
LAPLAND. 95 
 
 the principal diet of the Northern peasantry, the 
 cow is even more necessary to their welfare here 
 than in England. Each settler has a few sheep, 
 and poor ragged-looking things they were. 
 
 In the winter, the horses are worked to 
 skeletons in bringing home hay from the meadows 
 and wood from the forest; but in the summer 
 they have a jolly time of it, when they are turned 
 out to grass into the forests and on the fulls, and 
 are not fetched home till autumn. They stack 
 the hay where they cut it not in stacks, as we 
 do, but on a smaller kind of gate than that which 
 I have before described for the linseed. They 
 pile it over this when nearly green, and here it 
 dries, I believe, without ever heating, and, as the 
 top is made slanting, they say no rain can injure 
 it. I had no opportunity of proving whether it 
 retained its virtue as well in this way as in a stack 
 or barn, but I should say not ; and I consider the 
 method only as a bit of lazy-bed farming, although 
 I can hardly see what other plan they could adopt 
 here. Anyhow, it stands a very good chance 
 of being all' blown away and lost in the snow 
 when the autumnal gales set in, and this often 
 happens. They began to cut their grass early in 
 July, and, although I left before the corn was ripe, 
 I fear if I had stayed till November I should 
 have seen it green. They told me if they could 
 
96 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 not get it fit to cut by the first week in September, 
 they would lose their harvest. The barley cer- 
 tainly looked heavier in the head and larger in 
 the straw than I have ever seen it in England, 
 and it was not sown until early in June. I have 
 since heard that the harvest in 1862 was a total 
 failure, and had it not been for an unusual quan- 
 tity of game in the forest in the winter, the poor 
 inhabitants would have fared badly. 
 
 As to the idea of bringing the Lap mosses 
 into cultivation by draining, it is too absurd to be 
 entertained for a moment, and could never have 
 entered the head of anyone but an "armchair 
 humbug." Where are they to get hands to do 
 it ? and how many years would it take to drain 
 an 100-acre moss, when they could only work 
 three months out of the twelve, and in a country 
 where labour is so scarce ? Besides, when they 
 were drained, what would be the good of them 
 in a country peopled as this is where there are 
 no roads, and no means of transport ? I often 
 hear the same tale preached in the middle of 
 Sweden, as if there was not good land enough 
 already neglected ; and I never hear the same 
 without hinting to the farmer, that it would 
 perhaps be cheaper and better for him if he would 
 first turn his attention to the land which he al- 
 ready has under the plough ; and in nine cases 
 
LAPLAND. 97 
 
 out of ten, if that was better done by, he could 
 grow double crops without going to the expense 
 of draining new land. Every year proves the 
 fact, that there are few countries under the sun 
 which cannot be brought to minister to the wants 
 of man, and few places where an energetic a prac- 
 tical settler cannot thrive. But I really believe 
 Lapland was made only for the Laplander and his 
 reindeer ; and I fear the Lap settler must be con- 
 tent to live upon the fish and game with which 
 Nature has so liberally supplied him ; and if he 
 wants the luxuries of civilized life, he must come 
 and live among his civilized brethren. I have, 
 perhaps, dwelt too long upon this subject, as it 
 is not very probable that any of my readers will 
 corue up to Lapland either to cultivate the mosses 
 or work at the Gellivare mines, but still may like 
 to know what will grow so far north ; and before 
 I visited Lapland I heard and read such mar- 
 vellous tales respecting the fertility of this wild 
 land, that I was most anxious to judge for myself 
 how far it was adapted to agriculture, and I have 
 now given the reader my exact opinion on the 
 matter. 
 
 The season of 1862 was wretchedly cold, and 
 the wind, which seemed always to blow from 
 north and north-west, would come howling down 
 from the fells through the gully in which Quick- 
 
 H 
 
98 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 lock stood, "like d funnel." Whenever it rained 
 in the valleys it appeared to snow on the fells ; 
 but so sheltered is the village that they say 
 neither the corn nor potatoes ever freeze away ; 
 and, strange to say, I have plucked both wild 
 raspberries and strawberries here ! 
 
 As I said before, the situation of Quickiock is 
 romantic in the extreme, and in the summer it 
 would be hard to find a place in Lapland to beat 
 it for wild, natural scenery. Surrounded on all 
 sides by fells and forests, yet, lying as the village 
 does in a sheltered valley, every kind of ground is 
 met with here, and the naturalist could hardly 
 choose a better station. A large river the Tarra 
 Elf flows down from the fells close by the village; 
 the proximity of the village to the fells themselves 
 renders it peculiarly interesting to the collector ; 
 while meadows and swamps, choked with grass 
 and every species of aquatic plants, intersected 
 with numerous small natural channels and inland 
 lakes, afford shelter for many species of ducks ; 
 but, strange to say, there are fewer waders in this 
 district than in any I know. A boat here is as 
 necessary in the summer as skiddor in the winter, 
 for there is only one direction in which you can go a 
 mile out of Quickiock without a boat. The forests 
 just round the village are small, the trees blighted 
 and stunted, and covered with a loose hairy kind of 
 
LAPLAND. 99 
 
 moss. In fact, the Lap forests in general present 
 a strange contrast to the deep forests of Werm- 
 land and Dalecarlia. The branches of the fir trees 
 all grow in a slanting direction downward, and as 
 they are for the most part dead and jagged 
 although the trees are small it is no easy matter 
 to climb them. The meadows and lower grounds 
 are covered with thick plantations of a species of 
 willow, through which, in many places, it is im- 
 possible to force one's way, and immediately above 
 them the forests are composed of fir. We see 
 very little pine here, and what few pines we do 
 see are generally blighted and bare. The higher 
 we ascend the fell sides the smaller become the 
 forests, till at length we miss the fir altogether, 
 and reach the birch district. On leaving this we 
 come to the fell birch, which, exposed as the trees 
 are to the cutting wind in all directions, assumes 
 every fantastic shape. At first the fell birch 
 grows to a height of about four feet, but when we 
 come higher up the fells it dwindles to a mere 
 bush, and at length becomes nothing more than a 
 creeper, matted and tangled on the ground. But 
 the dwarf willow (Salix Herbacea), the smallest 
 shrub in the world, grows on some of the fells as 
 high as the dwarf birch. Above this the fells 
 assume their true character, and are covered with 
 lichens or mosses, and, in many places, with peren- 
 
100 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 nial snows. It is curious and interesting to stand 
 on a fell top and mark how clearly each line of 
 vegetation is denned below. To describe the fells 
 themselves would be a waste of time and space. 
 Any one can imagine huge masses of ironstone 
 and shingle of all shapes and sizes, the one tower- 
 ing above the other, the summits of the higher 
 ones covered with snow which never melts. 
 ""Waldi Spiket" is the highest fell close to 
 Quickiock, and I suppose its summit is about 
 4,000 feet above the river, and from the bottom to 
 the very top (for it rises gradually) is just^l| 
 English miles. It is a peculiar- shaped fell. On the 
 one side it rises with a gentle slope, and, though 
 the ascent is very difficult on account of a large 
 bed of boulders and shingle which one has to 
 cross, there is no danger ; but on reaching the 
 top and looking down on the other side, it rises as 
 plumb as a wall, and a slip of the foot would hurl 
 the traveller into an abyss some thousand feet 
 deep. No one, however, who has not seen it, can 
 picture to himself the beauty of the valleys that lie 
 between and at the foot of the fells themselves. 
 Nowhere have I seen so rich a vegetation, or such 
 a profusion of wild flowers as bloom in this 
 so-called wilderness ; and nowhere do the wild 
 flowers appear so beautiful as when we see them 
 in a spot where we least expect to meet with 
 
LAPLAND. 101 
 
 them. Never did I regret so much that I knew 
 nothing of botany, as when wandering irt this will! 
 but beautiful region. To stand, in one^.0f .these 
 fell valleys on a carpet of grass and moss as ' soil 
 as the richest that Turkey can yield, variegated 
 with wild flowers of every hue, from one to the 
 other of which rare and beautiful butterflies are 
 continually flitting to see the rugged fells them- 
 selves frowning down in severe majesty upon one, 
 excites a feeling of awe, perhaps, rather than 
 admiration; and though we know that not a 
 1 minim being is within miles of us, we cannot call 
 it solitude : 
 
 " 'Tis but to hold 
 Converse with Nature's charms, and view her stores unroll'd." 
 
 I had, of course, many opportunities now of 
 seeing that most singular Lapland phenomenon 
 the midsummer sun above the horizon at mid- 
 night, for just at this time was our best egg 
 season, and three nights out of the six we were 
 camped on or near to the fells, and for about a 
 month at midsummer we could always see the 
 rays of the setting sun reflected on the northerly 
 fells at midnight in fact, for above two months 
 the nights were as light as day, and, strange to 
 say, I hardly ever could get a real refreshing 
 night's sleep. We could now see to shoot as well 
 at midnight as at twelve o'clock by day in fact, 
 
102 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 most of the game is shot in the night by the settlers 
 here. I filial! * never forget the night of June 24, 
 when i-we-lay out) on' the fells in search of the nest 
 bi ' the ' Lapland bunting. The sky was remark- 
 ably clear, and, as I much wished to have a better 
 view of the sun himself, we climbed up to the top 
 of " Porti Fellen," the highest mountain in this 
 fell range, the summit of which is covered with 
 snow throughout the year ; and the sublime gran- 
 deur of the scene which then met my view I shall 
 never forget. I meant to have been up on the 
 top by midnight, but the road was more difficult 
 than we had expected, and it was half-past twelve 
 before we reached its summit. There are some 
 things, as the Clockmaker says, " too big to lift, 
 some too big to carry after they are lifted, and 
 some too grand for the tongue to describe," and 
 this was one. When we had reached the highest 
 peak of the fells we stood, perhaps, 5,000 feet 
 above the level of Quickiock. Far as the eye could 
 reach, nothing was to be seen but a wide expanse 
 of fells of different shapes and sizes shelving out 
 on all sides, the snow-fells towering like immense 
 glaciers above the others, their silvery peaks, 
 gilded with the rays of the midnight sun, con- 
 trasting prettily with the dark, sombre appearance 
 of those that were bare. " Lakes and rivers 
 beneath me gleamed misty and wide" in the deep 
 
LAPLAND. 103 
 
 valleys between the fells themselves, while the 
 lower landscape was covered with forests of 
 boundless extent, presenting to the eye every 
 shade of green from the dark foliage of the fir, 
 to the lighter and more silvery tint of the birch 
 and the willow. Every object could be distin- 
 guished as clearly as by day ; but 
 
 " The scene was more beautiful far to the eye 
 
 Than if day in its pride had arrayed it ; 
 The night wind blew soft, and the azure-arched sky 
 
 Looked pure as the Spirit that made it. 
 I stood, and I gazed from the fell's rugged slope, 
 
 Forgot was the world's rude commotion ; 
 And methought that the prospect looked lovely as hope 
 
 That star on life's tremulous ocean." 
 
 Here was a landscape fresh from the Maker's 
 hands. JSTo encroachments of man had marred 
 the rugged, natural beauty of this wild scene, 
 which was probably but little changed since that 
 day when some mighty convulsion of nature 
 raised these huge ironstone blocks into the posi- 
 tion which they now occupy. A solemn feeling 
 crept over me as I gazed upon the vast, the grand 
 panorama which lay outstretched around me ; and 
 as the night-breeze swept by in fitful gusts, it 
 seemed truly as if I then stood face to face with 
 the Almighty One in the wilderness. A dead 
 silence reigned over all, such as I once remember 
 during an eclipse of the sun, and for a short time 
 
104 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 all nature seemed buried in a deep repose. But 
 there was something almost unnatural in the 
 solemn stillness of that hour. It was as the 
 silence of the grave. How well I remember Eliza 
 Cook's beautiful lines, but never till this night 
 did I feel their full force : 
 
 " To hear our very breath intrude 
 Upon the boundless solitude, 
 Where mingled tidings never come 
 With busy feet or human hum ; 
 All hushed above, beneath, around, 
 No stirring form, no whispered sound 
 This is a loneliness that falls 
 Upon the spirit, and appals 
 More than the mingled rude alarms 
 Arising from a world of arms." 
 
 It is in vain to endeavour to do justice to such 
 a scene by the pen ; for " the description of such 
 natural and varied grandeur can be limited only 
 by each individual's power of graphic portraiture ; 
 all, however, far below the truth, and weak to 
 the imagination of the poetic reader." In the 
 north-east, where the fells were lower, the sun 
 shone out of an unclouded sky, apparently about 
 a foot from the horizon's edge an angry, sullen, 
 lurid, globe of fire, without appearing to emit a 
 single ray of heat, for we could stare him in the 
 face without winking. He appeared to me to go 
 down about due north, and, without rising or 
 sinking, for nearly an hour to travel eastward, 
 
LAPLAND. 105 
 
 when he gradually rose and assumed his wonted 
 splendour. A large herd of reindeer, accompanied 
 by a troop of Laps with their hounds, were cross- 
 ing the valley below us, and this completed the 
 wild character of a scene such as Teniers might 
 have loved to paint. 
 
 Never did I feel my own insignificance so 
 much as when I descended the fell, and left 
 this grand scene behind me. Place man in 
 cities, among his finest works of art, among 
 his manufactories and machinery ; bid him 
 jostle his way through the human crowd among 
 whom he lives, and his lip may curl with pride 
 and self-satisfaction as he gazes triumphantly on 
 some master-stroke of ingenuity, or chuckles at 
 the success of some mighty speculation. It is 
 then that he rises, as it were, in his own estima- 
 tion, superior to his fellow man, and for the mo- 
 ment seems almost to forget that he is mor; 
 But place such a one in a scene like this, at the 
 hour of midnight, and let him see if his self- pride 
 will not receive a check ! He will now be able 
 to compare the most stupendous works of his 
 hands with the works of nature, and then let 
 him strike a balance. His choicest work of art 
 can scarcely vie in beauty with the meanest wild 
 flower he heedlessly crushes under foot ; and as 
 for his boasted superiority over his fellow-man, 
 
106 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 why in this rude spot the little untaught Lap- 
 lander is worth a dozen of him. 
 
 By the time we reached our camping-place, 
 all nature seemed to have awakened. Although 
 little more than 2 A.M., the sun was shining 
 fiercely and hot, while the hoarse laugh of the 
 ptarmigan, as he rose from his bed of crags on 
 the opposite fell, the loud, unceasing pipe of the 
 golden plover, the soft, monotonous single call- 
 note of the Lapland bunting, and the shrill, clear 
 morning song of the blue-throated robin (our 
 earliest and loudest fell warbler), all welcomed 
 the break of another day : 
 
 " Birds, flowers, song, and beauty, 
 
 Seemed this nigged realm to fill ; 
 And what was my soul's entrancing, 
 Was the music and the glancing 
 Of a rugged, rock-born rill." 
 
 During the time we were on the fell a sharp 
 frost had set in, and when I went down to the 
 little mountain- stream, by the side of which AVG 
 had camped, to wash, I found it covered with ice 
 a quarter of an inch thick, and tins on Mid- 
 summer night ! Truly 
 
 " There is a freshness in the morning air 
 Which ease and bloated wealth 
 Can never hope to share ;" 
 
 and as I kicked the ashes of our wood-fire to- 
 
LAPLAND. 107 
 
 get/her to get ready for breakfast, I thought, as I 
 have many a time before done in the Australian 
 forests, that one hour in such a spot and at such 
 a time, was worth a whole year spent in cities. 
 
 This evening I left my lad on the fells, and set 
 off home by myself. "We were then about fifteen 
 miles from Quickiock, and although most of my 
 road lay through a pathless forest, still, with the 
 sun clear in the heavens, and a perfect knowledge 
 in which direction the village lay, it seemed next 
 to impossible for me to go wrong ; but so easy is 
 it for us in this world to stray from the right path, 
 that I did manage to lose iny way, and midnight 
 found me wandering in a dense forest at the foot 
 of the fells, without a landmark to guide me which 
 way I should steer. And here I may add, that it 
 is almost impossible for a man to lose himself on a 
 clear day for long in this neighbourhood. He 
 may, perhaps, wander a few hours in the forest, 
 perhaps even a day, but the fells round the village 
 are so well defined, and such sure landmarks, that 
 they must bring him up sooner or later. We used 
 to adopt a very good plan when camping out on 
 the fells, which was to hoist a white flag upon a 
 long pole on the top of a fell, at the bottom of 
 which we camped, and when the day was clear we 
 could see this landmark an astonishing way. Far 
 different is it on the fells in a mist, or when a 
 
108 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 snow storm sets in. On the road up I was amused 
 at the eagerness with which my two mates pur- 
 chased pocket compasses, as if they were of the 
 most vital importance, although neither of them 
 had the slightest idea how to steer by them. And 
 this reminds me of a circumstance which happened 
 to me in Australia. I was coming home to my 
 tent one evening from kangarooing, when I en- 
 countered a stranger who had lost his way. He 
 was evidently a " new chum," and looked about as 
 much like a tailor as anything else. I wondered 
 what could have taken him so far from the 
 town, but it seemed that he had a friend down 
 somewhere near Western Port, and he had been 
 out to see him. He got down very well, for he 
 stuck to the coast and the main road; but on 
 coming back he tried a short cut through the 
 forest. As Mr. Eichard Bragg would say, " this 
 was another pair of shoes altogether," and the 
 consequence was he soon got " bushed." The sun 
 was fast sinking, and he had nothing to eat, and 
 no matches. I took him home to the tent, and 
 on the road he expressed his surprise to me that 
 he should have lost himself, as he had a pocket 
 compass with him; upon which he pulled out a 
 complicated sort of machine, which united a com- 
 pass and sundial on one face a most useful bush 
 companion to any one knowing how to use it. 
 
LAPLAND. 109 
 
 The needle pointed right enough ; but when I 
 asked him in what direction he fancied Melbourne 
 now lay, he knew no more than the compass itself. 
 He had no bearings, nor had he the slightest idea 
 as to the use of the compass, but seemed to think 
 that, like the hands of a watch, which point to the 
 hour, the pointer of the compass would show him 
 the road home. As to our two compasses 
 gingerbread, German things they were out of 
 repair long before we reached Quickiock, and \vere 
 just as well broken as whole, in the hands of men 
 who had no idea how to use them. 
 
 But to return to my tale. I was not much 
 troubled at my disaster, for I knew it could be but 
 one night out, and I had my gun, plenty of matches, 
 salt and tobacco, lots of ripa in the forest, and 
 water in all the brooks ; so as I was rather tired I 
 made up my mind to camp up at once; and while 
 looking about for a likely place I chanced to 
 stumble on the real landlord of this wild domain, 
 in the shape of an old brown bear, who, from his 
 immense size, and grisly, venerable appearance, 
 must have been the very patriarch of the forest. 
 It was the first time I had ever seen old Bruin at 
 home ; and, unprepared as I was, without a bullet 
 to give him a proper welcome, I can't say that I 
 much relished the meeting. It was in a deep but 
 by no means thick forest, and my attention was 
 
110 A SPBING' AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 first aroused by the cackle of a lot of willow 
 grouse about 200 yards from me. I immediately 
 supposed that some owl or large bird of prey was 
 making an attack upon the brood, and although 
 my gun was only loaded with No. 7, I thought it 
 possible that I might creep up within shot. I 
 could see nothing as yet ; but a cracking of dry 
 branches soon told me that it was no bird, but 
 some beast of prey, that was raising this com- 
 motion among the ripa family. I stood still close 
 to a large dead pine, when I indistinctly saw 
 something grey through the trees, which I at first 
 thought must be a reindeer. A few seconds, how- 
 ever, soon showed me that it was no reindeer, but 
 the real " old gentleman in the fur cloak," upon 
 whose privacy I had thus intruded. He came 
 walking into an open space right in front of me 
 in fact, was within 100 yards of me, and appeared 
 to be coming straight up. I felt at this moment 
 much as I did upon one occasion in Australia, 
 when creeping cautiously down a narrow track 
 through the tea-tree scrub to a favourite water- 
 hole for duck, I suddenly found myself face to face 
 with a half-wild bull, who was leisurely return- 
 ing from drinking, through a track too narrow for 
 us to pass each other, the scrub on each side 
 nearly as solid as a wall. But to return to my 
 bear. He evidently neither saw nor smelt me, 
 
LAPLAND. Ill 
 
 but went rooting about with his nose close to the 
 ground, just like a pig searching for acorns. 
 Here was I in a " pretty tarnation fix/' as the 
 Yankees would say. My gun was loaded only 
 with small shot, and my case-knife would be of 
 little use to me, even in a death-struggle ; and if 
 it should come to this I well knew who would get 
 the best of it. No use trying to run away he 
 could beat me at that game; so remembering 
 Tom Spring's advice to his pupils, that "the 
 best way to stop a knock-down blow is to keep a 
 civil tongue in your head," I made up my mind to 
 stand stock-still, and certainly not to molest him 
 if he let me alone, but, if he did charge me, to 
 endeavour to get the muzzle of my barrels into his 
 mouth, and give him such a pill as even a bear 
 would have a little difficulty in swallowing. 
 
 Strange to say, as soon as I found that there 
 was no escape, I did not feel in the least frightened 
 only a little anxious as to the result, in case it 
 did come to a tussle ; and as this seemed now 
 more than probable, I did not care how soon it 
 took place. The old bear, however, was in no 
 hurry ; he did not appear to take the least notice 
 of me, but went grubbing round and round, as if 
 he had some very interesting botanical investiga- 
 tion in hand, and would wait on me as soon as it 
 was finished. Anything is better than suspense, 
 
112 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 and I could not stand this sang froid much longer. 
 It is now many years since I heard a rattling 
 view-halloa, but I have not quite forgotten the 
 cheery old sound, so I thought I would try the 
 effect of one on Bruin, and I gave a screech, the 
 like of which (if it would not have passed muster 
 at " Finedon poplars" or " Denford old ash") was 
 never, I'll be bound to say, heard before in this 
 wild Lap forest. It was now pretty plain that the 
 bear had no idea that I was so near him, for I 
 shall never forget the start he gave on hearing 
 my voice. I have often been amused in watching 
 the gambols of a litter of young pigs in a farm- 
 yard, when they toss up their heads, spring a 
 short distance, and then suddenly stop and turn 
 round and face you with a sniff and a snort. This 
 was just how my bear behaved. Tossing up his 
 head, he gave a deep kind of grunt, and off he set 
 at a pace which I never could have supposed such 
 a heavy- sterned, unwieldy, lumbering, short-legged 
 monster was capable of. He never looked round 
 until he was about fifty yards from me, when he 
 suddenly stopped short, gave a sulky, half- sidelong 
 look at me out of his little wicked pig eye, and 
 then dashing off into the deep forest, I saw him no 
 more. I now thought, however, that it was hardly 
 prudent to camp out in this neighbourhood, so I 
 made the best of my way out of the wood. After, 
 
LAPLAND. 113 
 
 perhaps, an hour's ramble, I came into a part of 
 the forest which I knew, and reached home about 
 four in the morning. Of course I was well laughed 
 at by all the old bear-hunters round when I related 
 my adventure. One would have done this, another 
 would have done that ; in fact, it is hard to say 
 what they would not have done, or could not have 
 done, except coming home, as I did, without leav- 
 ing the bear dead in the forest. But I was well 
 enough pleased as it was, for it now convinced me 
 that there is little to fear in meeting a bear, pro- 
 vided you don't molest him ; and considering that 
 I was liable any day to fall in with one in my 
 solitary forest rambles, to use the words of old 
 Dr. Valpy, the venerable preceptor of my youth, 
 this was to me " a very consolatory reflection/' 
 
 By all accounts, the Swedish bear is a very 
 well-behaved animal, and, I believe, is never known 
 to attack man unless he is first molested. But 
 when wounded he is an awkward customer. He 
 rarely takes cattle, except at the end of autumn, 
 and, in fact, appears to be far more herbivorous 
 than carnivorous in his habit. Little fear of his 
 even taking a horse in the forest, for they all keep 
 together, as if they felt the truth of the old adage, 
 that unity is strength. That the chase of the bear 
 is attended with very little danger in these forests, 
 is proved by the fact, that there is scarcely an old 
 
A SPEING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 settler here but has killed his score of bears, and 
 with weapons of the most primitive description. 
 The gun in use here is called a " Lod Bossa" a 
 small pea rifle, often not more than a foot long in 
 the barrel, fitted up with a very original kind of 
 flint-lock, the mainspring outside, and carrying a 
 ball perhaps forty to the pound. Armed with 
 such a rifle and his spear (to my mind a much 
 more formidable weapon), a little Lap will follow 
 the bear by Ins spor in the snow in spring or 
 autumn, with the untiring energy of a sleuth- 
 hound, till he is brought to bay, when the Lap- 
 lander attacks him, often single-handed, and in 
 nine cases out of ten will kill him, without receiv- 
 ing any injury. It is when the bears leave the ice 
 in early spring, and they can follow them in the 
 soft snow, that the principal slaughter takes place. 
 A bear is a great prize to a Laplander, for, inde- 
 pendent of the meat, the skin, when properly 
 dressed, is worth from 2 10s. to 4. The black 
 ones are the best. There were lots of bears round 
 Quickiock, and two were killed in the vicinity 
 while I was up, but I saw neither. Formerly the 
 Laps never molested the bear, but looked upon 
 him with a sort of veneration. Now, however, 
 they have learnt the art of killing him from the 
 more civilized settlers, and, next to the wolf, the 
 bear is the principal quarry of the Lap hunter. 
 
LAPLAND. 115 
 
 Every man lias his hobby, from which, if once 
 mounted, it is hard to shake him off; and the 
 hobby of these settlers is bear-hunting. I have sat 
 by the hour and listened to hairbreadth escapes 
 and incidents of the chase no doubt half of them 
 lies, but still with some truth at the bottom and 
 I could not help feeling that there is something 
 manly in the way that they attack such an animal 
 single-handed. But if any of my readers wish 
 to know more of the habits and chase of Bruin, 
 I will refer them to Lloyd's "Northern Field 
 Sports" a book written by one who has killed 
 more bears than any man in Sweden, and a book, 
 moreover, which tells " the truth, the whole truth, 
 and nothing but the truth," rather an unusual 
 thing in a book on sporting. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 NOTES FROM MY DIARY KEPT AT QUICKIOCK. 
 
 I WILL now proceed to lay before my readers a 
 few extracts from my diary as to how we passed 
 our time ; a few hints to the sportsman respecting 
 the shooting and fishing in the district ; and shortly 
 notice every quadruped and bird which we met 
 with around Quickiock. From what I could learn 
 from men who had been settled up here many 
 years, it would seem that in general the winter 
 begins in October, and lasts full seven months, or 
 till April; the spring is short, and the summer 
 commences about the middle of June and lasts 
 three months ; autumn begins in September and 
 lasts till the middle of October. 
 
 The greatest cold is in January, and the greatest 
 heat in the end of July. The greatest cold here 
 has been about 45 Celsius, and the greatest heat, 
 35 Celsius. 
 
 The mean temperature of the four seasous may 
 be taken at : 
 
 Winter .... 9 cold. 
 Spring .... 6 warm. 
 
NOTES FROM DIARY KEPT AT QUICKIOCK. 117 
 
 Summer - - - - 15 warm. 
 Autumn - - - - 6 warm. 
 
 But the average temperature of the whole year, if 
 we except the periods when the seasons exert their 
 peculiar influence, is about the freezing point of the 
 thermometer, or in other words, constant winter. 
 Instances have been known of corn being sown 
 and ripening in forty days. In usual seasons 
 
 About March 5th, the melting ice and snow begin to trickle 
 from the roofs. 
 
 April 10th, the snow bunting appears. 
 
 25th, wild geese and swans arrive. The Papilio 
 urtica) is seen. Larks are seen, and 
 patches of bare ground appear. 
 
 May 6th, the white wagtail arrives. 
 
 24th, the marsh marigold flowers. 
 
 28th, the birch has leaves. 
 
 June 6th, summer warmth 10. 
 
 Aug. 1st, night frosts begin. 
 
 May 10th to 25th, the rivers usually open. The ice is 
 fast melting, and they begin to plant the 
 kitchen gardens. 
 
 ,, Aug. 20th, harvest begins, winter rye is sown. 
 
 Sept. 20th, the birch shed their leaves. 
 
 Nov. 20th, the ice bears, and the ground is covered 
 with snow. 
 
 They generally reckon here that the sun dis- 
 appears below the horizon about November 20th, 
 and about January 20th half his disk is seen 
 again above the horizon. 
 
118 A SPKING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 During the whole of April the snow lay two 
 feet deep in the forest, in many places much more, 
 and on the fells no one could tell its depth ; it was 
 impossible to get out of doors without " skiddor." 
 As I had never practised upon such a skate, and 
 it is not easy to " teach an old dog new tricks," I 
 was a close prisoner to the house for a great part 
 of the month. However, there was just now very 
 little to do in my line. It is true my lad brought 
 me in many good specimens of hawk owl, Siberian 
 jay, pine grosbeak ; but none of the spring migrants 
 had yet arrived, and the first nest we took was that 
 of the Siberian jay, on April 21st. The ptarmigan 
 and willow grouse were as yet in their pure white 
 winter dress. In the middle of April the sun rose 
 at half-past four and set at half-past seven. A 
 good deal of snow occasionally fell, and it was 
 impossible to give any idea of the temperature, for 
 on April 20 the mercury was 18 below zero 
 (Celsius), and on the 21st we had 10 warm (from 
 zero to 50 Fahrenheit). But every one prophesied 
 an early spring. The Laps were fast hurrying 
 back to the fells, and drove after drove of reindeer 
 passed through the village. About the 22nd I 
 began to see open water lie by the sides of the 
 streams, although there was still good sledging on 
 all the rivers and lakes," and the waterfall in a 
 large stream that runs down from the northern 
 
NOTES FKOM DIAEY KEPT AT QUICKIOCK. 119 
 
 fells into the Quickiock river was still frozen over 
 as hard as a rock. 
 
 B y the end of the month the thaw seemed to set 
 in, and we now began to see many bare places in 
 the snow. For about a fortnight it was next to 
 impossible to get into the forests at all, except just 
 in the morning, when the frost was on the snow. 
 The new snow, however, which melted as it fell, 
 had the same effect on the old snow as the spring 
 rain in Wermland. On April 30th the sun rose at 
 half-past three and set at half-past eight. On the 
 28th we got our bow nets in order, and set them in 
 the ice at the mouth of a small backwater leading 
 out of a large shallow lake. The fish did not run 
 well at first and no wonder, for the river in some 
 places, where it was only four feet deep, was frozen to 
 the very bottom. Every prospect this of an early 
 spring ! But we now began to hear the roar of the 
 waterfall in the fell river close to the house more 
 distinctly every day, which proved that the ice was 
 gradually melting at the bottom. 
 
 Early in May many of the smaller migrants 
 arrived, and large flocks of snow buntings, shore 
 larks, and bramblings covered all the bare patches 
 which the snow had left. 
 
 The thermometer varied in the day now from 
 4 to 10 warm of Celsius (about 40 to 50 Fahren- 
 heit), but at midnight was often as low as 10 
 
120 A SPUING AND SUMMEU IN LAPLAND, 
 
 below zero (14 Fahr.). The weather on the night 
 of April 24th, according to the calculation of these 
 Lap settlers, regulates that of the ensuing spring, 
 and as this was mild and warm they prophesied a 
 mild and warm spring. The thaw was now going 
 on rapidly but imperceptibly, for the sun began 
 to have great power, and the snow was now so 
 rotten that we could scarcely get into the woods 
 even on " skiddor ;" and if we went any distance 
 from home in the morning (the only time of the 
 day when the snow would bear), it was a great 
 chance if we could get back again till the night 
 frost set in. I once saw a horse standing in the 
 forest up to his belly in the snow. They had taken 
 him out at night to fetch home wood, but as soon 
 as the sun had power the snow melted and would 
 not bear, so they were obliged to leave him there 
 till the night frost again crusted the snow. We 
 could now see how deep the snow lay in the 
 forests, for we often sank in up to our very 
 arm-pits while trying to struggle through it. 
 However, spring was near at hand. By the 
 middle of the month most of the spring migrants 
 had arrived, and the clear, loud, wild, desultory 
 carol of the redwing might be heard throughout 
 the whole night, which was now as light as day. 
 We had at this time a migration of fell lemming, 
 which lasted about three weeks. We began to 
 
NOTES FEOM DIARY KEPT AT QU1CKIOCK. 121 
 
 see " spor " of bear and glutton in the snow, and 
 a wolf took two reindeer in one night close to the 
 village. The nights now were always frosty, 
 however warm it might be m the day.* The only 
 nests A\ r e got in April were those of the Siberian 
 jay and hawk-owl ; early in May Tengmalm's owl, 
 the great black woodpecker, the rough-legged 
 buzzard, and the great grey shrike. By the end 
 of the month all the hole-breeding birds were 
 h .ug, as well as the fieldfare, willow-grouse, 
 japurcaikiu, ha/el-hen, and mealy redpole. On 
 May 6th we had the last regular snow-storm. It 
 snowed without intermission throughout the whole 
 day, with 4 warm Celsius, but in the evening it 
 turned to rain. On this day we caught the first 
 fish in the bow-nets, 75 Ib. of perch, many of them 
 3 Ib. each. An odd teal or two appeared, for there 
 were already a few open places by the shallow 
 sides of the rivers, and a flock of fell geese flew 
 over on the 8th. On May 4th, the last drove of 
 reindeer came up to the fells, and the Laps said 
 the river was no longer safe for sledging. It soon 
 now began to be full of holes, and for a fortnight 
 or so the communication was closed between this 
 and Lulea. I shot the first wader (a golden-plover) 
 on the 15th ; saw the first swallow on the 16th. 
 On the 18th, at night, I shot a widgeon and a teal, 
 and in the early morning two capercailzie (which 
 
122 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 had just now begun to " lek" or play), at least 
 three weeks later than in Wermland ; and three 
 willow grouse. Up to. the 23rd the spring 
 migrants kept arriving. The ice and snow now 
 went very fast ; the waterfall had burst through 
 its icy covering, and the river just at Quickiock 
 was open. But the travelling was now dangerous 
 and troublesome, although the post did manage to 
 row down on the 25th. Spring, however, had 
 now fairly set in, many of the birds were building, 
 and on the 22nd we had 30 Celsius (86 Fahr.) in 
 the sun. But the meadows looked as brown as a 
 turnpike road, and not a tree was yet in leaf. 
 We had now occasional warm showers, and the 
 heavy mist that hung over the fells, entirely ob- 
 scuring their snow- clad summits, betokened that 
 the melting, or action of the snow, was fast going 
 on. I plucked the first wild flower, a little kind 
 of yellow dandelion, in the snow on the 17th. 
 They began ploughing on the 18th, and by the 
 end of the month the barley was all in. The 
 grayling now began to run into the bow-nets, and 
 they were full of spawn, although I fancied 
 their season over. On the 23rd we could very 
 well get up on to the fells and into the forests,, 
 and our egg season had now fairly commenced. 
 On the 27th I bathed for the first time, the water 
 icy cold. On the 31st the birches were just 
 
NOTES FKOM DIAEY KEPT AT QTHCKIOCK. 123 
 
 beginning to look green ; by June 3rd they had 
 burst out into full leaf, and the whole country 
 suddenly wore a different aspect, as if it had been 
 touched by the wand of an enchanter. Never 
 could I have believed that so sudden a change 
 could take place. A week since, and every birch 
 and willow were as bare as at Christmas, and now 
 the Quickiock valley looked like a beautiful shrub- 
 bery in England. On May 29th some Laps came 
 over the fells, from Norway, to receive the sacra- 
 ment in our little church, and on the road they 
 found the dead body of a man lying on the fells, 
 who had doubtless lost his way in the autumn 
 snow-drift and been frozen to death. They were 
 obliged to leave the body where they found it, and 
 probably ere tlu's the bones have been cleared by 
 the hill-fox and the raven, and now lie bleaching 
 in the wind and sun, a melancholy warning to any 
 traveller who may chance to wander by this lonely 
 spot. I never was lost in the snow in Lapland, 
 for I never was out of sight of home while the 
 snow lay in the forests, but I had one night's 
 experience in Wermland, in March, 1862, when the 
 heaviest fall of snow occurred that had been heard 
 of in the middle of Sweden for very many years. 
 As it is not every one who has passed through 
 such a night, the following account which appeared 
 in the Field newspaper at the time, may, perhaps, 
 be interesting to some of my readers : 
 
124 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 A NIGHT IN THE SNOW. 
 
 " Like a dead man gone to his shroud, 
 The sun has sunk in a leaden cloud, 
 And the wind is rising bleak and loud, 
 
 With many a stormy token, 
 Playing a wild funereal air, 
 Through the branches bleak, bereaved, and bare ; 
 
 In fact, if the truth were spoken, 
 It's an ugly night for anywhere, 
 
 But an awful one for the Brocken." HOOD. 
 
 If the night of the 4th March was only half 
 as bad in England as in Sweden, I can well fancy 
 that paterfamilias, comfortably seated by a blazing 
 fire in a well-curtained, well-carpeted parlour, over 
 his wine and walnuts, would draw himself closer 
 into the hearth as the wild wind and drifting snow 
 rattled against the casement, and remarking to 
 the family circle, " That it was a dreadful night, 
 God help those poor travellers who are out in 
 such a storm ! " would ring the bell for John to 
 throw another log on the fire, quietly compose 
 himself for a doze, and give the matter no further 
 thought. Doubtless there were many men out 
 on this wild night to whom one glimpse of that 
 cheery fire shining through his window would 
 have seemed almost as a ray of heavenly light ; 
 and as I myself was among the number, I will 
 relate the experiences of one of the longest and 
 worst nights I ever spent in my life, the very re- 
 membrance of which even now makes me shudder. 
 
NOTES FROM DIARY KEPT AT QUICKIOCK. 125 
 
 I had left home on the 27th of February on a 
 little charr-fishing trip, and more beautiful winter 
 weather I never remember. Lots of snow had 
 fallen, but it was well set ; and as the roads are 
 all cleared with snow-ploughs, etc., at such a time 
 we can travel in a bee-line over forest and lake, 
 and I reached my friend's house in about fifteen 
 miles instead of twenty-four, the usual distance. 
 The weather was clear and bright, and I never 
 enjoyed a walk more in my life. I took one of my 
 lads with me, for I had two objects in view ; the 
 first to catch some good specimens of charr, the 
 other to see if I could find the crossbills building 
 in the woods we were about to visit. We had 
 some capital fishing, but although the weather 
 still kept bright and clear, I did not like the 
 appearance of the heaven when the sun went 
 down on the 1st of March ; and, on looking out 
 of my window the next morning, was not at all 
 surprised to see that a heavy snow-storm had set 
 in. My lad, with the characteristic prudence of 
 these foresters, immediately went home, for he 
 prophesied three days of snow ; and it would have 
 been well had I followed him, but my friend over- . 
 persuaded me to stay (no very difficult matter, by 
 the way, when I contrasted the inward comforts 
 of his house with the desolate prospect that 
 reigned over all outside). It snowed heavily without 
 
126 A SPRING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 five minutes' intermission, till the morning of the 
 4th, when, as there was a little break in the sky 
 to windward, I was determined to try and get 
 home, notwithstanding all the assurances of my 
 friend that I should never reach home that night. 
 
 At noon it cleared, and the sun peeped out of 
 a leaden sky, but about four withdrew his angry 
 face behind as heavy a bank of snow-clouds as 
 ever I saw. I took a peasant's cart, for the roads 
 were not cleared for sledging, and though we 
 could only travel at a foot-pace (the snow up to 
 our axles), still I could have got home had I stuck 
 to the wheels and the high road; but in two 
 stages I came to a ferry, and, by crossing the 
 river there, I should save more than six English 
 miles. The ferry-boat was frozen in, and although 
 the ice would not bear a cart, I had no difficulty 
 in walking over ; and as I fancied I now knew 
 my way, I guessed I should reach home with 
 some little trouble. As long as my path lay on 
 the high road I got on pretty well ; for, although 
 the way was so blocked with snow that I could 
 not make much more than one English mile in the 
 hour, still I knew where I was, and if I was 
 obliged to camp up for the night, there were 
 plenty of cottages by the roadside. At last I 
 came to a farmhouse, beyond which lay a lake 
 about one and a half English miles in length, and 
 
NOTES FKOM DIAKT KEPT AT QTJICKIOCK. 127 
 
 if I could cross this I should reach a village from 
 which a high road would take me home ; but the 
 country between this farmhouse and the village 
 was about the very worst I could have chosen to 
 cross on such a night. It was a wild, bleak, 
 cheerless track by day, and as there was no forest, 
 only here and there scattered clumps of trees, 
 there was no shelter, and nothing to stop the 
 drifting snow, which, in many places, now lay 
 four feet deep. The farmer pressed me to stay all 
 night, declaring it was impossible to cross the 
 lake ; but finding me determined, he said, as he 
 dare not send a horse out with me, I could take 
 one of his servants, who knew the lay of the 
 country, to put me into a track which led to the 
 village by the side of the lake. I may add that at 
 sunset the snowstorm set in again as bad as ever, 
 and, although the wind was boisterous enough, it 
 came in wild gusts all round the compass, so that it 
 was impossible to steer with any certainty by that. 
 Thus, as there were no stars visible, and as we 
 could not see a landmark for one hundred yards 
 before us, I had not the least guide, and if I once 
 lost the track it was all up with me. On leaving, 
 my friend the farmer shook his head forebodingly, 
 and, declaring he should scour the country next 
 morning to see if he could find my body lying 
 buried in a snow-drift, we parted. A wilful man 
 
128 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 will have his way, and for about the fiftieth time 
 in my life I proved the folly of running counter to 
 the advice of the inhabitants of a strange country, 
 who must know their own land better than a 
 foreigner. 
 
 "With the help of my guide I managed to make 
 a pretty good fight through the snow (for the road 
 was quite blocked up, although his instinct found 
 it), and if I had only kept him till I came to the 
 village, I should have been all right ; not that I 
 should have tried to get home then, for it was 
 nearly eight when I left the farmhouse, and I was 
 already getting faint and tired. But after he had 
 followed me about an English mile, he told me 
 if I kept down a long fence till I came to the 
 bottom, and then turned to the right, I must 
 make the village ; so I sent him back. I followed 
 his directions, as I fancied, to the letter, and after 
 I had wandered alone for perhaps an hour, I saw 
 what I took to be a house looming in the distance ; 
 but when I reached it (after a goodish deal of 
 trouble) it proved to be a clump of trees. Al- 
 though much disappointed, I did not despair, for 
 I was as yet tolerably fresh and strong. The 
 worst of it was, the snow was blinding me, the 
 air was so thick that I could not see a hundred 
 yards before me, and all the fences were now 
 buried in the snow-drift. I fired off my gun, I 
 
NOTES FROM DIAET KEPT AT QTJICKIOCK. 129 
 
 shouted, but no answer ; so on I floundered, 
 without the slightest idea where I was steering, 
 for I was fairly lost ; and if I had even tried now 
 to make " back tracks," the darkness of the night 
 and the heavy falling snow prevented me seeing 
 my spor. I had, therefore, nothing for it but 
 to take a straight line, and keep it, trusting to 
 luck to bring me at last to some familiar object. 
 On I floundered, sometimes the snow-drifts in the 
 hollows four feet deep, always above my knees ; 
 and so great was the exertion, that in about an 
 hour more I was fairly beaten ; and although 
 I should reckon there was then at least 13 cold 
 Celsius, the perspiration poured oft me in streams. 
 Again I fired off my gun, and shouted, but no 
 welcome answer. No one was likely to be out 
 round here on such a night, and even if a cottage 
 window had been blazing within two hundred yards 
 of me, I should certainly have never seen it through 
 the murky waste. I could keep no note of time, 
 but I fancy it must have been near midnight when 
 I reached another clump of trees, and, being now 
 fairly beat, I sat down at the foot of one with my 
 back to the wind, but as soon as I had sat down, 
 a complete revulsion came over me. My blood 
 seemed all at once to stagnate, my head reeled, 
 my eyes appeared to be starting from their 
 sockets, and a drowsiness, the like of which I 
 
 K 
 
130 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 had never felt before, crept upon me. The 
 horrid thought suddenly flashed across my mind, 
 that if I gave way to this sensation for five 
 minutes I should soon sink into that sleep from 
 which there is no waking in tins world. There 
 was now nothing to do but to keep moving, for I 
 knew that my life depended on it. If I could 
 struggle on till the morning, I had no fear ; but 
 I was nearly beaten, and I reckoned it still wanted 
 eight hours to sunrise; so I roused myself up, 
 and again struck out which way I knew not, 
 nor did I care. It would be a miracle if I reached 
 the village, and as to holding out till morning in 
 my present weak state, I fancied to be impossible. 
 When I fell benumbed with cold, the snow would 
 soon bury me ; all traces of me would be lost, and 
 there I should lie till the thaw came on. But as 
 long as there was life there was hope. To push 
 on was now my only alternative, and again I 
 struck out into the waste of snow. The cold had 
 caught one of my hands, and I had lost the use 
 of it, and my ears and nose felt just as if I could 
 have snapped them off like icicles. I could feel 
 the cold, as it were, gradually paralyzing me, so I 
 took a good roll in the snow like a dog, and it is 
 wonderful how that refreshed me. I luckily had 
 lots of tobacco for chewing, but no matches. I did 
 not feel hungry, and a handful of snow every now 
 
NOTES PEOM DIARY KEPT AT QUICKIOCK. 131 
 
 and then slaked my thirst ; so I had no fear on 
 this account. My whole life, as I thought, de- 
 pended upon whether or not I could hold on till 
 morning, and keep myself from being frozen ; for 
 now I dare not rest for five minutes, or I would 
 have scraped a large hole in the snow and crept 
 in ; but every time I rested I felt that queer 
 drowsiness coming over me, which I knew was 
 the precursor of sleep. 
 
 Galton, in his " Art of Travel," I see, expresses 
 his decided opinion that men may live many days 
 buried in a snowdrift. Had I known this, I 
 should have suffered no more anxiety on the 
 night in question than I had ever done when 
 bushed in Australia ; but I never referred to 
 Galton till I came home. If such is really the 
 case, all my fine tale of anxiety and sufferings is 
 nothing but a romance ; however, it was my firm 
 idea that if I once rested in the snow I should soon 
 become benumbed, and gradually pass off into 
 an unawaking slumber. So, as I dare not try the 
 remedy, it was the same to me as if it had never 
 existed. It is strange up here that mine is the 
 general opinion, and every peasant to whom I 
 have spoken on the subject, says that your only 
 chance of saving life is to keep going. I know 
 black grouse often bury themselves in the snow, 
 and remain there for days, as we can see by their 
 
132 A SPKING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 droppings when disturbed, and so do bears ; men 
 are, however, neither bears nor blackcock. But 
 to my tale. 
 
 On I struggled, gradually becoming weaker 
 and weaker, till my foot struck against some 
 obstacle, which soon brought me up. It was a 
 sunken fence (the snowdrift here just reached my 
 waistcoat-pocket), and I am sure that it took 
 me a quarter of an hour to clear it. I was 
 fairly beaten, and as I sunk on the snow I 
 thought, as old Dick Christian says in one 
 of his lectures, " I wor dun now." My gloves 
 had frozen as stiff as icicles. The cold seemed 
 eating into my very marrow. My feet, not- 
 withstanding all the exertions I was making, 
 were completely paralyzed, and appeared to 
 hang on my legs like two lumps of lead ; more- 
 over, they felt as if they had swelled to double 
 their natural size ; my boots, which had frozen 
 as hard as iron, held them like two vices, and 
 the pain was dreadful. My senses seemed going ; 
 I was becoming light-headed, and when I rose 
 again (for I dare not lie long) I reeled like a 
 drunken man. A kind of languid indifference 
 was now stealing over me ; I seemed to care 
 little for life, and, although I was determined 
 not to sink as long as I could flounder on, 
 all probability of my now holding out till morn- 
 
XOTES FEOM DIARY KEPT AT QTJICKIOCK. 133 
 
 ing seemed so hopeless that I almost longed 
 for the moment to come when I should fall 
 exhausted in the snow, and bury the agony I 
 was then suffering in sleep, although it might 
 be the sleep of death. The sensations of that 
 night I shall never forget. In the early even- 
 ing I had felt frightened, but this feeling soon 
 passed away. Hope then vanished, and a kind 
 of desperate and savage courage to fight against 
 fate as long as I could stand up had usurped 
 its place, and I dashed on through the blind ing 
 snow with feelings of reckless exultation. Every 
 time that a wild gust of wind swept by me, I 
 fancied I heard the laugh of the " Spirit of the 
 Storm," as if mocking me, and on every such 
 occasion I felt fresh nerve and courage. Such 
 curious thoughts came into my head; trifling 
 incidents of the past, long since forgotten, crowded 
 on my mind, and the whole history of a life seemed 
 to be condensed in the few hours of that dreadful 
 night. We read of the horrid sensations of sailors 
 cast away at sea upon a raft, when all hope has 
 left them, and, maddened by hunger and despair, 
 murder and cannibalism glare in the eyes of men 
 who till then had been as sworn comrades 
 and brothers. I can well now believe all I have 
 read on this horrid theme. I had no incitement 
 to cannibalism, for I was alone, and, moreover, 
 
134 A SPEING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 was not hungry. But quite as dreadful a thought 
 flashed across my brain that of suicide I I had 
 long given up all hopes of escape. Why, then, 
 prolong sufferings which now I fancied must inevi- 
 tably end in death ? I had my loaded gun, and 
 one moment's pain would save the agony of a 
 lingering death, which now seemed inevitable. 
 Thus whispered the fiend in my ear, and the horrid 
 thought gradually took such hold on me, that 
 fearing that in a moment of desperation the temp- 
 tation might prove too strong for me, I dashed 
 my gun in the snow to render it useless, and at 
 that moment felt like another man. No blame 
 could attach to me that even for a moment I 
 entertained such a dreadful and sinful thought. 
 I was no longer master of myself; my whole 
 disposition seemed changed. How long I now 
 wandered on I had no means of guessing. I 
 moved mechanically, as if in a trance. My clothes 
 were all frozen, and every time my foot sank into 
 the snow it seemed to take me five minutes to get 
 it up again. Every sinew in my leg was cracking, 
 and my hands hung down like useless and dead 
 weights at my sides. At length I saw something 
 indistinctly looming through the fog before me. 
 I was close to it. I struggled on, and found that 
 it was an empty shed by the side of the lake, used 
 for keeping nets and fishing gear in. I staggered 
 
NOTES FEOM DIAEY KEPT AT QUICKIOCK. 135 
 
 in, sank down upon a heap of old netting, and lay 
 for some time in a kind of swoon. However, I 
 was now safe, for I was sheltered from the snow, 
 and I could at least keep my blood in motion by 
 walking backwards and forwards round the hut. 
 The reader will possibly imagine that I was over- 
 powered with feelings of joy at such a deliverance. 
 Not a bit of it. I had looked imaginary death in 
 the face so long, that it seemed to have lost all its 
 terrors, and a sullen indifference had settled on 
 me. A savage desire came over me to set the 
 place on fire, and have a glorious warm ; and had 
 I possessed any means of getting a light, in five 
 minutes the old shanty would assuredly have been 
 in a blaze. Strange ! One would have thought 
 that, after all the trouble I had taken in reaching 
 this haven, I should have been content to rem; 
 there till daylight. But not so; I now knew 
 where I was, and after I had rested awhile I set 
 out for the cottage, which I knew was not far 
 distant. I soon reached it. All the inmates were 
 asleep, but the door was unbolted, and I walked 
 in. I soon had the peasant up; and when we 
 got a light I saw by the clock that it was just five, 
 so I had been wandering in the snow for about 
 nine hours; and as my thermometer, when I 
 reached home, stood at 18 cold, Celsius, I calcu- 
 lated that in the night it must have been as low 
 
136 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 as 25 (about 13 below zero, Fahrenheit) and, 
 mind, I had no pea-jacket ! I durst not take my 
 boots off till I got fairly home ; but the blazing 
 fire, and a cup of hot coffee with which the peasant 
 provided me, quickly brought me round; and as 
 soon as I was a little refreshed I hobbled home. 
 I had to cut off my boots. When I pulled my 
 stockings off and bathed my feet in cold water, 
 they looked just like raw meat ; and any one who 
 knows what it is to ride hunting in a pair of tight 
 tops can to some extent fancy what I felt. How- 
 ever, beyond great pain in my feet, I suffered no 
 serious inconvenience, and twelve hours in the 
 blankets set me all right again. 
 
 Twice before in my life have I spent as long 
 and dismal a night as this once lying out on the 
 bowsprit of a Swedish schooner, when we were 
 caught in the race of Alderney, and, drifting along 
 the east coast of that island, with breakers on our 
 starboard, we expected to strike every hour ; and 
 another time, when bushed in an Australian forest 
 during a storm of thunder and lightning, which 
 raged the whole night with such violence as only 
 a thunder-storm can rage south of the equator. 
 But on neither occasion did I experience the feel- 
 ings of this night in the snow. 
 
 And now, if any of my readers should fancy I 
 have made "much ado about nothing," and spun 
 
. 
 
 NOTES FROM DIARY KEPT AT QU1CKIOCK. 137 
 
 a fine yarn out of a trifling thread, I can only 
 assure him that I have faithfully described what 
 I felt; and if he fancies I have exaggerated in 
 the least, I only hope that it may be his luck, just 
 for once, to be out himself on such a night, and he 
 will then see how he likes it. 
 
 Since that night I have had a deal of con- 
 versation on the subject with many of our fell men 
 and foresters, and all agreed that I could have 
 scarcely been bushed in a worse night. In gene- 
 ral, when the snow is falling, the wind is still and 
 the air dull and warm ; but on this night the cold, 
 piercing wind turned the soft snow-flakes into 
 sleet, and the thermometer was many degrees below 
 zero. So heavy a snowstorm has not been known 
 in Wermland for twenty years. In the last such 
 storm it was computed that 105 lives were lost in 
 the north. They all agreed that I was perfectly 
 right in keeping going ; and said that if I had once 
 sunk exhausted in the snow, I should never have 
 risen again. On the Lapland fells, where it is not 
 unusual to be lost in a snow-drift, the plan they 
 adopt is this : They push on for awhile, and when 
 they find their track is fairly lost, and they must 
 be snowed-in, they scrape a deep hole in the snow, 
 lay their " skiddors," or long snow-skates, across 
 the top of the hole, which prevents the falling 
 snow quite blocking them in, and leaves a little 
 
138 A SPEING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 air-hole. They creep in, and lie pretty warm and 
 snug till they begin to feel drowsy, when they 
 must at once rouse themselves, go on again, and 
 dig another hole ; and so they go on till they find 
 their track. The great thing is to avoid becoming 
 exhausted; for in that case, if sleep comes on a 
 man, it will be the sleep of death ; but it is not so 
 dangerous if sleep should overtake a man while he 
 is fresh, for he might then possibly live for days in 
 the snow, and be taken out alive, in which case he 
 might recover, and live even for a few years ; but 
 he will never be the same man again afterwards, 
 and in all probability will soon die of consumption. 
 This is what I have since been told by practical 
 men, and they all agreed that, considering the 
 deep, loose state of the snow, and the coldness of 
 the night, I had a very narroAV escape. 
 
 But to return to my Lapland, diary. The 
 potatoes were planted by June 3rd, and in about a 
 week's time the country was indeed beautiful to 
 behold. All the lowlands were covered with the 
 light silvery foliage of the willow, and wild flowers 
 of every hue (many of them strangers to me) met 
 the eye at every step. But I missed many of my 
 little home favourites, for the daisy, the cowslip, 
 the violet, and the lily of the valley appeared to 
 be strangers here. A little rain fell in the begin- 
 
NOTES FEOM DIARY KEPT AT QUICKIOCK. 139 
 
 ning of June, but for the rest of the month the 
 weather was beautiful, and we were not kept 
 in-doors for one day by bad weather; and this 
 was lucky, for June is by far the most important 
 month to the Lap collector. Throughout the 
 whole month our occupation was the same, col- 
 lecting every day. As I had little time myself to 
 go and seek for nests, the plan I adopted v 
 this : whenever any of my boys found a nest in 
 the neighbourhood of Quickiock, they never took 
 it, but marked the place (and these peasant lads 
 never forget a place which they have once marked, 
 even in the deepest forests). Two days in every 
 week I used to go round and take the nests myself, 
 and, if it was necessary, shot the old bird. By 
 this plan I was certain not to be deceived ; and as 
 I much wanted type specimens well authenticated 
 for my own collection, it was worth a little trouble 
 to obtain them. Towards the middle and end of 
 the month I had two or three most interesting 
 trips up on to the fells, where we camped out each 
 time for two or three nights, in search of the eggs 
 of Buffon's skua, which birds literally swarmed on 
 our fells this summer a most unusual occurrence; 
 and I had the pleasure both of watching the habits 
 of this rare bird in a state of nature, and of obtain- 
 ing a good collection of both birds and eggs. I 
 was also now much engaged with the ptarmigan 
 
140 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 and pine grosbeak in summer dress. On June 15th 
 the sun rose 40 minutes after 12 at night, and set 
 at 22 minutes after 11, and by my Lap almanac, 
 seems never to set again till the 28th. 
 
 By the beginning of July the egg season was 
 over in fact, most of the birds had young, and it 
 was only the very early breeding birds which we 
 shot ; as it is an act of the greatest cruelty now, 
 to shoot an old bird when there is a chance that the 
 unfledged young are dependent upon her for their 
 food. Although perhaps no collector, let his pur- 
 suit be what it may, can be altogether free from 
 the imputation of cruelty, there are many needless 
 acts of cruelty which he can avoid ; and if he can 
 content himself only with taking the eggs from a 
 nest, and makes it a rule never to shoot a bird 
 unless he really wants it, his pursuit is far more 
 harmless and innocent than many others which 
 man indulges in only to gratify his love of sport. 
 
 For about six weeks in June and July the rays 
 of the setting sun might be seen gilding the fell 
 tops during the whole night. The hottest weather 
 was in July, and often at midday I saw the ther- 
 mometer in the sun as high as 3 5 Celsius (95Fahr.) 
 The priest told me that in winter he has seen the 
 glass as low as 45 below zero Celsius (49 below 
 zero Fahr.) But the nights were always cold, and 
 I believe every night there was a frost on the fells. 
 
. 
 
 NOTES FROM DIAEY KEPT AT QUICKIOCK. 141 
 
 By what I could hear, this was an early season, for 
 frequently the ice does not go from the river till the 
 middle of June, and the fell lakes are not clear until 
 the end of the month. They generally expect the 
 first snow-storm in autumn, about Michaelmas 
 (but the river is often not frozen up till the middle 
 of November) . The ground is then usually covered 
 with snow, the sun disappears below the horizon, 
 and is never seen again until the 20th of January. 
 It came on to rain about the first week in July, 
 and for about six weeks I don't think we had 
 above six days in which no rain fell ; and my lad, 
 who lay out on the fells generally two nights every 
 week without a tent, used to complain bitterly of 
 the cold. To work these fells properly a man 
 requires a small tent, and three or four of these 
 half- civilized Laps to help him. By the second 
 week in July the young willow-grouse were three- 
 parts grown, and strong flyers (and I may here 
 remark that I never did see young birds grow so 
 fast as these), but it was not until the first week 
 in August that I could find any young ptarmigan 
 fit to shoot. By the middle of Jiily some few 
 ducks had brought their young broods down to 
 the water holes and lowland swamps, but it was 
 not until August that we had any real sport with 
 the flappers for I cannot call it sport, as they do 
 here, to murder the old females and the young brood 
 
142 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 in the grass before the latter can fly, and shoot the 
 old males when they are moulting and have lost 
 their pinion feathers. I was, I must say, rather 
 disappointed with the duck-shooting here, for, 
 owing to the want of bulrushes, reeds, and other 
 high covert, the young birds so soon become wild 
 and take to the open water that they generally 
 rise out of shot ; I could, however, manage to bag 
 ten or twelve strong flyers any evening early in 
 August. This was a very bad season for butterfly 
 collecting, owing to the high wind and cold dull 
 days on the fells ; and the rarest fell butterfly, the 
 Colias BootMi (which they call here the "verdandi," 
 and which appears to be confined to only one fell 
 range in tins neighbourhood), did not show. I 
 remarked, however, that most of the butterflies 
 had disappeared by August 1st. I only heard 
 thunder once up here in fact, they say that a 
 thunder storm is of rare occurrence. About 
 August 13th they were in the middle of the hay 
 harvest. The cows and horses were turned out 
 into the forest about the middle of June, and 
 would probably remain there till early in Septem- 
 ber. The barley was quite green when we left, 
 and it appeared very doubtful to me whether it 
 would ever ripen. About the second week in 
 August the weather cleared, and on August 21st 
 we left Quickiock, improved in " limb, wind, and 
 
NOTES FftOM DIAEY KEPT AT QUICKIOCK. 143 
 
 sinew," after spending four very interesting and 
 pleasant months in this "land of forest and fell." 
 I made a very good collection both of birds and 
 eggs. I added about thirty new authentic eggs to 
 my own private collection ; I obtained many birds 
 in a state of plumage in which we never see them 
 but in Lapland ; and what was better, I had an 
 opportunity of studying the habits of many of our 
 rarer British birds at that most interesting time 
 of all, the breeding season (and the few observa- 
 tions which I made will be faithfully chronicled 
 hereafter) ; but, what was best of all, I left Quick- 
 iock with the good wishes of all the village, for 
 the little money that I had spent among its poor 
 inhabitants in the summer would help them to 
 obtain many little comforts for the next long and 
 dreary winter which they must have gone without 
 had I not come up. 
 
 When we left Quickiock the highest fells were 
 still covered with snow, which never melts, and, 
 in many of the chasms between the fells, I have 
 no doubt lies 100 feet deep, the accumulation 
 of ages. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 HINTS TO SPOETSMEN AND NATTJKALISTS IN 
 LAPLAND. 
 
 NEVER did I see in any country so much game as 
 in Lapland. Immediately around Quickiock, where 
 every one shoots and snares just as he pleases, the 
 game is, of course, as a natural consequence kept 
 down ; but the shooter need only wander a few 
 miles from the village, and I am certain that on 
 any day he will be able to shoot more game than 
 he can well carry home. It is hardly likely that 
 any one will travel up here solely for the sake of 
 sport ; but as an Englishman seldom leaves home 
 without his gun and fishing-rod, it will probably 
 interest many to know what sort of sport is to be 
 obtained in this wild land. I will, therefore, devote 
 a page or two to their especial benefit, and, although 
 I know nothing of any other part of Lapland, my 
 remarks will doubtless apply pretty well to the 
 whole country. 
 
 For capercailzie, hazel grouse, and willow 
 grouse, the shooter can hardly go wrong, let him 
 pitch his tent where he will south of Kanto Keino. 
 
HINTS TO SPORTSMEN, ETC., IN LAPLAND. 145 
 
 Black game is not nearly so abundant in any part of 
 Lapland as further south, and appears to be very 
 local for at Quickiock we rarely saw a blackcock, 
 while at lockmock, eighty miles south, they are 
 very plentiful. Every fell literally swarms with 
 ptarmigan, dotterel, golden plover, and mountain 
 hare. A curious feature in the habits of the game 
 birds up here, is their uncertain migrations from one 
 tract to another. I don't know whether the ptar- 
 migan and willow grouse wander much ; this 
 particularly applies to the capercailzie, and black 
 grouse. 
 
 For flapper-shooting in July, Lapland would 
 be hard to beat, for half the lowlands consist of 
 rivers, rushy swamps, and inland lakes ; and this 
 country is the great breeding resort of half the 
 wild-fowl in Europe. The common wild duck is 
 rare in Lapland, but scoter, velvet duck, scaup, 
 golden eye, pintail, and widgeon, wild swan, bean, 
 and white-fronted geese, flock in hundreds, as 
 soon as the ice breaks up, to these northern waters, 
 where they can breed in undisturbed security far 
 away from the haunts of man. 
 
 Although Lapland itself may lie almost beyond 
 his range, the day may not be so very far distant 
 when the English grouse-shooter will have to turn 
 his attention to the Swedish and Norwegian fells, 
 where shooting is to be had for the asking, and 
 
146 A SPRING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 neither grouse disease nor heather-burning has as 
 yet swept off the game. There are many places on 
 these fells, within the pale of civilization, where a 
 party could pitch their tent and live quite as com- 
 fortably as on the Scotch moors. In the matter of 
 s. d. they would most probably be gainers ; and 
 if they only chose a good district, I am certain 
 that they would find as good sport both for the 
 gun and the rod as in any part of North Britain. 
 There would not be half the trouble in the jour- 
 ney that they might anticipate; in fact, we can 
 reach the Dovre-fell from Christiania by rail and 
 steamer ; and I should say that any of the fells a 
 little north of Sneehatten would be good shooting 
 ground. The worst part of it is, their game 
 would be little or no use to them ; and there is 
 something repugnant to the feelings of the fair 
 sportsman in shooting game merely for the sake 
 of slaughter. But as we read of men paying about 
 90 per year for a Scottish moor, and getting in 
 return fifty brace of grouse, I fancy these shootings 
 would be quite on a par with that ; for out of fifty 
 brace, a man, if he treated himself to grouse for his 
 dinner when on the moors, would have very little 
 left to send to his friends, while the shooter here 
 would at least be able to supply his own table and 
 have much better sport, without paying any rent. 
 The English salmon fishers have already taken the 
 
HINTS TO SPOKTSMEN, ETC., IN LAPLAND. 147 
 
 Norwegian rivers by storm, and, although we may 
 not live to see it, the day will assuredly come when 
 the British shooter, disgusted with exorbitant 
 rents, scarcity of game, and expenses of preserving 
 at home, will have to look out for a fresh field, 
 and that field will be the great dividing fell-range 
 between Sweden and Norway. The red grouse 
 has, however, now been lately introduced into 
 Sweden, and if they only thrive, which I fancy 
 they will, the day perhaps will soon come when a 
 new field, and one very easy of access, will be 
 opened to the British shooter. 
 
 But although the country around us swarmed 
 with game, I troubled myself very little about 
 it; I had other work in hand. My time was 
 fully occupied, and, moreover, ammunition was 
 scarce, and it was rarely we shot a bird which we 
 did not want for the collection. I never, there- 
 fore, tried how much game I could kill in any one 
 day ; but I am certain that in August I could have 
 easily bagged twenty brace of willow grouse on 
 any afternoon ; and ten or twelve brace of ptar- 
 migan, on the fells, would have been an easy day's 
 work. I have often killed six brace of willow 
 grouse, just to keep my hand in, without losing 
 sight of the village ; and, as the English sergeant 
 said in the Crimean rifle-pits, on one or two occa- 
 sions I have had " some very pretty shooting 
 
148 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 indeed." I did here what I never before did in 
 my life. I bagged seven full-grown capercailzie in 
 one afternoon, killing two fine cocks right and left. 
 The country round here would have swarmed with 
 wildfowl, if they would only spare the breeding 
 birds ; but whenever a pair of ducks drop in the 
 water in spring, within sight of a settler's house, 
 their death-warrant is sealed. " Holkar," or little 
 wooden tubs, are set up against the trees by the 
 river side, in which the golden- eye and merganser 
 breed ; but the birds are so much disturbed that 
 very few stay to breed just round the village, but 
 go back into the forest and the scrub under the 
 fells. 
 
 To the naturalist visiting Lapland I will offer 
 the following advice : Neglect not to bring up 
 plenty of fine, tough ladies' curling-paper and pins 
 to wrap up the specimens in, for you can't get any 
 here ; and skins never travel so well as when they 
 are separately wrapped up. I had nearly 1,000 
 skins to bring down, many of them large ; and as 
 I was anxious to stow them away as closely as 
 possible to save expense of carriage, I took out ah 1 
 the tow from the inside of the birds, and packed 
 them close. Tin's plan answers very well with 
 some birds, such as ducks, divers, etc. ; but with 
 most other skins it is far better to stuff them 
 out in shape at first, and let them remain so. 
 
HINTS TO SPORTSMEN, ETC., IN LAPLAND. 149 
 
 Arsenical soap, on the whole, is the best preserva- 
 tive for the traveller, as a little goes in a small 
 compass, and in a tin canister there is no fear of 
 breakage. But he should also take up a pound of 
 alum and saltpetre, finely powdered, and mixed in 
 equal parts, to fall back upon ; in fact, I like this 
 preservative nearly as well as any other. A fe\v 
 coloured engravings of the birds he most wants 
 he will find useful. I have often wasted half an 
 hour in trying to describe any particular bird 
 to a northern peasant, without avail ; but when I 
 showed the coloured figure of the bird, he has 
 recognized it immediately. Boxes for packing he 
 can procure anywhere at least very good substi- 
 tutes, made by the Laps and settlers of birch bark; 
 these will do to transport his things down to the 
 coast, when he can get proper ones made. A 
 dozen egg-drills and tin blow-pipes will not be too 
 many for the egg collector. Above all things, he 
 should bring up with him a few yards of light 
 oil- skin ; it will be useful on the fells to rig up a 
 temporary tent, and will preserve his specimens 
 from wet in a boat. Tow and cotton wool he can 
 procure at any seaport town here, but he must 
 take all he wants up into Lapland. Whether he 
 be an insect hunter or not, he may as well bring 
 up a net, a few collecting boxes, and pins, for he 
 will meet with many rare butterflies, and they 
 
150 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 take little room. If lie wishes to preserve speci- 
 mens of fish, he has but two plans : he must 
 either skin them and stretch them on cardboard 
 or wood, or he must dry them in dry salt, in a box, 
 which will preserve them perfectly fresh for a little 
 time. The moisture, however, runs out of a 
 wooden box. Before putting them into the salt, 
 let him wrap each specimen separately in paper or 
 fine linen ; for without this precaution the fin-rays 
 will become so brittle that they will break off. 
 Pound the salt fine, as, if it is in lumps, it will 
 leave dents in the fishes ; and lay the fishes, in 
 layers, with a good bed of salt between each. 
 The entrails should be taken out, or they will rot 
 and spoil the specimen ; but preserve the stomach 
 with the food in. He can get no spirits after he 
 leaves the towns ; and if he has to carry his bag- 
 gage any distance, a keg of spirits will be a very 
 expensive article. Still, if his real object be 
 ichthyology, there is no way of bringing home 
 really good specimens except in spirits ; although, 
 since I came from Lapland, I have seen specimens 
 of fish preserved wholly in zinc canisters, with 
 common salt, keep very well for months ; and this 
 plan I shall certainly adopt another year. Cover 
 over the aperture with wet bladder, which will effec- 
 tually keep the air from the specimens. Salt can 
 be got up in Lapland, and all the collector needs 
 
HINTS TO SPOETSMEN, ETC., IN LAPLAND. 151 
 
 in tliis case is to take up a zinc box to put his 
 fish in. 
 
 However, I will waste no more time on this 
 subject. The collector knows what is really neces- 
 sary ; and although he should never burthen him- 
 self with a single unnecessary article, he should 
 take care not to leave a single really necessary 
 article at home. If he is a sportsman, he can 
 depend upon getting shot either in Stockholm or 
 Gefle nothing <7.sr. If he is a fisherman, he must 
 bring with him all hi* t'lt-klc in i'act, if a man 
 really means work, he must leave nothing to 
 chance. He can procure > asfll stance and meat every- 
 where ; but let him depend upon nothing else. 
 
 The telescope I have used for the last year has 
 been Steward's rifle telescope ; it is the handiest 
 glass I know for the collector, and answers every 
 purpose, without being cumbersome. I have 
 since obtained his " Lord Bury telescope," which 
 is certainly, for its size, the most splendid glass I 
 ever looked through. 
 
 The collector will do well to bring up a spare 
 extra cheap gun, for wherever he goes he will 
 always find some one willing to shoot for him; 
 but they all use small pea-rifles up here, which 
 injure the specimens too much. He can always 
 get rid of a cheap gun when he leaves, and receive 
 its fall worth in money or specimens. 
 
152 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 I never was in a worse district than this for 
 snipe, and I never could account for the absence 
 of this bird from a country so well suited to its 
 habits ; but there are so many little secrets in 
 nature hidden from us, that the more we study 
 the habits and economy of the animal creation, 
 the more are we puzzled at the various anomalies 
 which we meet with. I saw only three snipe all 
 the time I was up one double and two full birds. 
 This circumstance strikes me as most singular, 
 for I know the jack-snipe breed further north, at 
 Munioniska, and the double snipe, I am told, is 
 tolerably common up near the Alten. 
 
 The woodcock appears to be unknown here, 
 and I don't believe they come so far north. 
 
 A high-couraged setter is the best dog for 
 these fells, where there is never want of water in 
 the summer; and a heavy retrieving close-hunt- 
 ing spaniel, that will face water, is indispensable 
 for the woods and lowlands. English powder, 
 and, above all, English caps, should be brought 
 up, for the foreign rubbish won't fit an English 
 nipple ; and it is a good plan for the sportsman, 
 before leaving England, to have a couple of small 
 nipples fitted into his gun, in case from necessity 
 he should have to turn to foreign caps. Never 
 keep your English caps mixed with the foreigners. 
 If you do, the foreign caps will creep inside the 
 
HINTS TO SPOETSMEX, ETC., IX LAPLAND. 153 
 
 English ones, and can't be got out without a deal 
 of bother. 
 
 As to dress, every sportsman has his own ideas 
 on that head, so I will say no more, except that it 
 cannot be too strong ; and if a man really means 
 work, he cannot do better on the fells than to 
 adopt the Lap costume as far as skin breeches and 
 shoes go. Above all things avoid hobnailed shoes 
 on the fells ; they are both dangerous and trouble- 
 some. A pair of good light water-boots will often 
 prove a real comfort in wading these fell streams, 
 in which the water is always icy cold ; and in the 
 summer the forests are always wet. No fear of 
 the shooting dress being too thick or too warm, 
 especially if a man camps out much on the fells, 
 for I have seen these fell lakes coated with ice on 
 a midsummer night, and on a windy day my 
 fingers have been so numbed that I could scarcely 
 load my gun. The weather may be warm enough 
 down in the Quickiock valley, but it will be very 
 different on the tops of the highest fells, especially 
 when the north wind comes howling over the 
 dreary waste of perennial snows lying between 
 this and the Arctic Ocean. 
 
 I need not remind the naturalist and collector 
 that, in a trip like this, the identification of his 
 specimens is of the utmost importance. To every 
 bird's leg he should, of course, attach a label 
 
154 
 
 A SPKING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 noting sex (? for female, J for male), date of 
 capture, and locality ; and for eggs the best and 
 simplest plan, is this : his egg will of course be 
 blown with a blow-pipe from one hole in the side ; 
 above this hole let him write his initials, and under 
 
 it a number : Cj^F) "^ ^ e e s * n an ^ one 
 nest will bear the same number. Thus I take 
 my first nest of the Siberian jay on April 16th, 
 with three eggs. I mark all the three eggs 
 with JSTo. 8. I have a small note book ruled 
 thus : 
 
 Date. 
 
 Name. 
 
 No. on 
 Egg. 
 
 Remarks. 
 
 1862. 
 
 Ap.16 
 
 Grarrulus Infausfcus 
 3 eggs . . 
 
 18 
 
 Tengmalm's Owl 
 4 eggs . 
 
 Taken by myself (as the 
 case maybe) at Quickiock, 
 out of a small fir, 6 feet 
 from the ground ; old bird 
 shot. Eggs a little sat on. 
 Nest (describe nest, and 
 add as many particulars as 
 you choose). 
 
 Taken, etc. 
 
 If he chooses, he can paste a neat printed label over 
 the whole, with the name of the bird. This plan 
 I have adopted for years, and I know none so good. 
 "With small birds I always, if possible, preserve the 
 
HINTS TO SPORTSMEN, ETC., IN LAPLAND. 155 
 
 nest with the full number of eggs, for I consider 
 the nest quite as valuable and interesting as the 
 eggs themselves. As all the eggs belonging to the 
 same nest are numbered with the same figure, by 
 a reference to his little note book, the identifica- 
 tion of any egg (even if his eggs get mixed) is 
 very easy. 
 
 No matter how hard an egg is sat on I can 
 always clean out the embryo by the following pro- 
 cess, which beats all others : Make a largish 
 hole in, the side, by cutting a square piece of the 
 shell out with a scalpel or scissors ; pick out as 
 much of the young bird as you safely can, and 
 then blow water into the egg with the blow-pipe ; 
 let it stand for some days in a dark drawer or 
 box, and keep repeating this process about every 
 third day, gradually blowing more water into the 
 shell, and picking a little out till the whole of the 
 embryo has rotted away. This is by far the safest 
 and surest plan with a valuable egg. 
 
CHAPTER VII. 
 
 ON THE FISH PECULIAR TO THESE WATERS, THE 
 REPTILES, AND THE INSECTS OF LAPLAND. 
 
 To the angler and ichthyologist I will now say a 
 few words, although, while staying in this locality, 
 I had but little time to devote to the " gentle art." 
 I had some tackle with me, but notwithstanding 
 I now and then took a cast, I never Idlled a single 
 fish, for I had no fly tackle ; and the fish in the 
 Quickiock rivers would not look at the artificial 
 bait, although I tried one of Alfred Gould's most 
 life-like imitations, which never yet failed in the 
 Wermland waters. I attribute this much to the 
 clearness and shallowness of the water in the 
 Tarra river, and there being no real good streams 
 or eddies. There was certainly a magnificent 
 trout stream running down from the fells to the 
 Quickiock river, which came dashing and tumbling 
 over the rocky bottom, full of streams and pools ; 
 and doubtless the fly would answer here ; and I 
 have seen the little fell lakes literally alive with 
 the fish rising at the evening flies. To fish these 
 little lakes properly, I should say that one of 
 
FISH, EEPT1LES, AND INSECTS OF LAPLAND. 157 
 
 Cording' s India-rubber boats would be just the 
 thing, for it would be so easily transported. I 
 think, however, that for Lapland the fly is better 
 than the bait; but from what I could hear, the 
 few English fishermen who have visited Quickiock 
 all agreed that it is one of the worst stations for 
 the angler in Lapland. lockmock seems much 
 better, for the river there is full of good streams. 
 Sea-salmon come up to lockmock waterfall, and 
 there are more species of fish than in the Quick- 
 iock waters ; but I question if they have the chair 
 there. The fly that I used to see on the full 
 waters in the end of June was, I fancy, the 
 common stone-fly at least, if not, it was a very 
 good imitation. The May-fly appeared to be 
 scarce, and came on the water late. It struck 
 me as being smaller than our drake. The fly in 
 use here for grayling was a fancy fly black ostrich 
 body, white wings. I think, however, the fish 
 are not particular in these waters, and will rise at 
 a fly which a pampered Thames trout would turn 
 away from in disgust. The two flies which I have 
 mentioned, a green drake and lake-trout fly, 
 dressed thus body red, with silver twist ; wing, 
 golden pheasant ; shoulder, blue jay and a few 
 red and brown palmers, would be standard flies 
 for any part of Lapland. The tackle must be 
 strong, and everything of the best, for a grayling 
 
158 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLANP. 
 
 of 5 lb. or a trout of 10 Ib. in these rapids will give 
 some play. I have seen charr rising here at the 
 stone-fly as well as trout. 
 
 According to Mr. Lloyd, the salmon neither 
 take bait or fly well in any of the Bothnian rivers. 
 He adds : " It is a curious fact that these salmon 
 will not rise at the fly, and one worthy the atten- 
 tion of naturalists. The only attempted solution 
 I ever heard is that these fish may not be the 
 genuine Salmo solar, but a huge trout resembling 
 it in appearance." 
 
 In journeying up from Stockholm to Tornea, 
 I counted upwards of one hundred rivers. Many 
 of them, as the Dal, the Umea, the Calis, the 
 Tornea, of great magnitude, and some navigable 
 to a considerable distance into the interior. This 
 deluge of waters, considering that the country 
 whence they take their rise is of no great extent, 
 always puzzles the Scandinavian adventurer. 
 
 I have always heard that the best salmon 
 rivers are on the north and west coasts of Norway, 
 but for trout, grayling, and charr I fancy almost 
 any Lap stream or fell lake is as good as another. 
 
 The Quickiock waters contain fewer varieties 
 of fish than any which I know, and, strange to 
 say, not one single species of the genus Cyprinus 
 is met with here. This I attribute to the clear- 
 ness of the water, and the total absence of all 
 
FISH, KEPTILES, AND INSECTS OF LAPLAND. 159 
 
 grass and water weeds from the sides and bottoms 
 of the rivers and lakes. The water is as clear as 
 crystal, and we could see to the bottom at almost 
 any depth ; and it is curious to stand on a high 
 fell and look down to the very bottom of a lake 
 which lies at the base. The only species of fish 
 peculiar to the Quickiock waters are pike, perch, 
 trout (certainly two distinct species), chair, gray- 
 ling, gwynniad, vendace, and burbot ; at lockmock, 
 I believe they take roach. But although tho 
 number of species may be few, the name of the 
 individuals is legion; and for sweetness of flesh, 
 fatness, and good condition, I will back the Quick- 
 iock fish against any in the world. Such charr! and 
 trout as red as blood. Even the old pike tasted 
 here quite a different fish from those we take in 
 the sluggish British waters. 
 
 The trout in the lake and small streams here 
 are undoubtedly the common trout (Salmo fario), 
 varying, however, much in colour and appearance 
 according to the water from which they are taken. 
 They run to a good size, 3 Ib. to 5 Ib. not being 
 uncommon. But we used to take another trout 
 in the river Tarra (never up in the lakes or smaller 
 streams), which I fancied was altogether a different 
 trout from any I have hitherto seen in Sweden. 
 The fishermen here called it Aborting," and said 
 they could distinguish it at any age from the 
 
160 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 common trout by the total absence of red spots 
 from all parts of tlie body, and by its bright 
 silvery appearance when first killed. It struck 
 me as different from either of our Wenern lake 
 trout, and appeared more to resemble the salmon 
 trout (Sal. Trutta, L.) than any other species, and 
 I fancy that it is the real Salmo Trutta, Lin., 
 acclimatized in fresh water. However, whether 
 or not it was distinct from our Wenern lake 
 trout, one thing is pretty clear that it was certainly 
 distinct from the common trout ; but as I shall 
 probably at a future day, when I am more at home 
 with the Swedish salmon, make a few more remarks 
 on the subject, I shall dismiss it for the present, 
 merely remarking that we used to take those bort- 
 ing from 2 Ib. (I rarely saw them under) up to 
 12 Ib. I never saw a red spot on one, although 
 the common trout in the same water (but they 
 were rare there) were spotted precisely like the 
 common British trout. The flesh was always 
 paler than in the common trout. The borting 
 was a shorter, plumper fish than our Wenern lake 
 trout, and altogether resembled in appearance the 
 salmon trout (8. Trutta). 
 
 Mr. Lloyd in his Scandinavian adventures 
 gives the following useful advice to the northern 
 angler: "In conclusion, a knowledge of the 
 waters which experience and practice alone can 
 
FISH, EEPTILES, AND INSECTS OF LAPLAND. 161 
 
 give is needful to ensure success in the northern 
 waters, otherwise days are lost in fishing places 
 where no fish are to be found. Early in the 
 season the deep pools below the falls and rapids 
 are the best ; as the summer advances, the fish get 
 strength and take to the strongest streams ; and 
 as autumn comes on, the heaviest fish lie just 
 above the largest falls and rapids. It requires 
 some nerve as well as skill to fish in these places. 
 Two men, with a pair of sculls each, is requisite, 
 and great care must be taken not to get drawn too 
 near the falls, as in that case nothing can save 
 
 one." 
 
 The charr which we usually took in the fell 
 lakes was just the common charr (S. alpinus, Lin.), 
 but they vary much in colour, and we have two 
 distinct varieties, in the one of which the flesh 
 was pale, and in the other red. The red ones are 
 found in the higher fell lakes, and the higher the 
 Like the redder and handsomer are the charr. 
 But they say that the charr are never found on 
 the very fells themselves, nor higher up than the 
 birch region, which has its highest range 2000 
 feet under the limits of perpetual snow. The 
 common trout (at least that variety which is 
 called the S. punctatus, Cuv.), however, has a 
 higher range in fact, goes further up into the 
 fell waters than any European fish. I never saw 
 
 if 
 
162 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 the cliarr here (except in one lake) exceed 3 Ib. 
 in weight. But in a lake at the foot of a high fell, 
 about six miles from Quickiock, there was a large 
 variety or species of charr which, I take it, must 
 have been identical with Nils son's " Wetterns rod- 
 ing. " The largest specimen which I preserved 
 was 28 inches long, and weighed 6| Ib. They 
 are, however, often taken up to 8 Ib., and now 
 and then as heavy as 12 Ib. The specimen which 
 I caught in a net was a splendid fish ; it was in 
 fine condition belly and flesh as red as blood. 
 It was a male fish, and had a small crook (it was 
 taken on June 20), a thing I never recollect seeing 
 before in a charr. On comparing it with three 
 common charr of about 3 Ib. weight, which were 
 sent me in from another lake the same morning, 
 I could observe no specific differences. They 
 appeared to be precisely the same, both in shape, 
 colour, number of scales, and finrays, and the only 
 difference appeared to be in the size. It was, 
 however, the largest charr I have seen, and 
 certainly a magnificent fish both to eat and look at. 
 The grayling run here to a large size, but they 
 are not plentiful. I saw several specimens about 
 3 Ib. in weight, and one which I preserved was 
 nearly 5 Ib. ; but they all said up here that this 
 was the largest grayling they had ever seen. This 
 was 19 inches long to the root of the tail. Mr. 
 
FISH, EEPTILES, AND INSECTS OF LAPLAND. 163 
 
 Lloyd mentions killing in one day, 50 brace of 
 grayling in a tributary of the Kemi river, 69 north 
 lat., weighing upwards of 100 Ib. 
 
 The burbot were neither large nor numerous, 
 andthe season for them closed just after we cameup. 
 
 The perch were remarkably fine and large in 
 these waters. We often took 60 Ib. or 70 Ib. in 
 one large bow-net in a night. I observed that we 
 seldom saw one under | Ib., and 3 Ib. was not an 
 uncommon size. Some years since a kind of 
 epidemic raged among the perch here, and nearly 
 all were swept off, but they are now recovering 
 their numbers again. 
 
 We had certainly two species of gwynniad here. 
 The Coregonus oryrliinrhus, Nilss. (Nabb-sik, 
 Swed.), and the Coregonus Lavaretus (or Lof-sik, 
 Swed.). We used to take both in the same haul 
 of the net, but the C. Lavaretus was by far the 
 rarest. It is said they are often taken up to 8 Ib. 
 I never, however, saw one above 5 Ib. There is 
 a smaller species here, at least they used to con- 
 sider it a distinct species, which they called the 
 " asp," a name, however, which we use in the 
 middle of Sweden for a very different fish, the 
 Cyprinus Aspius, Lin. They always ran small, 
 and I never saw a specimen over 8 inches ; but 
 they were always full of roe or milt, in June and 
 July, whereas I never then saw any roe or milt in 
 
164 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 a small gwynniad , I fancied they must have been 
 the vendace ; but the fishermen here said not, for 
 they never take any vendace till the end of Sep- 
 tember ; we took these little fish all through the 
 summer. 
 
 According to Professor Widegren, who has just 
 brought out a Treatise on the Scandinavian Salmo, 
 we have five distinct species of sik, or gwynniad, 
 in Sweden, besides the vendace, four of which are 
 common in the Lapland waters, viz. : 
 
 Coregomis oxyrhinchus, Lin. 
 
 C. Fera, Jur. 
 
 C. Lavaretus, Lin. 
 
 In all of which, according to Widegren, the 
 upper jaw projects beyond the under ; but their 
 differences are constant at all ages, and although 
 they frequent the same waters, they are neverthe- 
 less very different in their habits, and the localities 
 which they frequent; and he also mentions two 
 more, in which the jaws are even. 
 
 The same author appears to doubt the identity 
 of this Lap " asp" with the vendace (G. albula), 
 and probably the Quickiock fishermen were correct 
 in saying it was another species. However, much 
 confusion still exists respecting the different 
 members of this family, and it would be very in- 
 teresting if a man like Dr. Gunther would turn 
 his attention to this subject, as he has already 
 done to the charr. 
 
FISH, REPTILES, AND INSECTS OF LAPLAND. 165 
 
 Should this Lapland " asp" prove to be a dis- 
 tinct species of Coregonus, I believe it is as yet 
 undescribed by any Swedish naturalist, unless it 
 is the Cor eg onus Nilssonii, Yal., which "Widegren 
 says is met with in the Lap waters. I never identi- 
 fied the vendace up at Quickiock, but they told 
 me there that they do not begin to take them 
 until September. 
 
 The largest pike I saw was 16 Ib. The pike 
 season here is short, and only lasts just during 
 the spawning time, for I rarely saw a pike taken 
 in a drag-net, but only in a large species of stake 
 bow-net, which is set in the ice, at the mouth of 
 any good spawning-ground. These we began to 
 set in the end of April. At first we took nothing 
 but perch, and after that pike, and then wound up 
 with grayling. I never saw either trout or gwyn- 
 niad taken in a bow-net, but occasionally a burbot 
 finds his way in ; there appears to be no way of 
 taking gwynniad but in drag-nets. The quantity 
 of pike sometimes caught in one night is astonish- 
 ing. I once recollect seeing two men come home 
 in the morning with as many pike as they could 
 bear suspended from a long pole, which they 
 carried between them on their shoulders. They 
 must have had above 2 cwt. Three weighed 
 above 12 Ib. each. But, as with the game, so 
 with the fish, they must gradually decrease when 
 
166 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 such a war of extermination is being continually 
 waged against them, for the principal catch of all 
 the fish is in the spawning season, and drag-nets 
 are used, the meshes of which are so fine that no 
 fish three inches long can escape. I observed here 
 that after the middle of July very few fish were 
 taken in the drag-net. I fancied they had then 
 gone back to the deeps. This is a very bad river 
 for leistering, a successful mode of poaching (and 
 of which I must admit I am very fond), much in 
 vogue in our Wermland waters. 
 
 They say there are no reptiles in Lapland.^ I 
 only wish any one who fancies so had been with 
 me one fine spring day when I turned over a heap 
 of dry grass in a meadow in search of a field mouse. 
 I am certain if there was one lizard under it, there 
 must have been a thousand. They were just the 
 little common viviparous lizard, and I saw no 
 other up here. I never remember seeing a toad 
 in Lapland ; but as for frogs, I thought that one of 
 the plagues of Egypt had descended upon us, 
 when one fine day in spring, just as the snow 
 went, every lowland seemed alive with frogs, 
 leisurely hopping down from their winter quarters 
 to the water holes and ponds which the ice had 
 left. This was on May 15th, and I saw none 
 before. I certainly never observed such large or 
 handsome-coloured frogs. I never saw a newt 
 
FISH, REPTILES, AND INSECTS OF LAPLAND. 167 
 
 in Lapland, nor do I ever remember noticing a 
 common land snail, although there were many 
 little water snails in some of the waters here. I 
 saw only one snake all the time I was up. This was 
 a female adder about 18 inches long, early in June. 
 
 In a small river near lockmock they find a 
 species of pearl, and the shells of this Lapland 
 pearl mussel appear to be exactly identical with 
 those we pick up in some of our Wermland brooks. 
 I bought some on my way down, which I sent to 
 England, where, however, they were little valued. 
 
 The Quickiock district was very rich in insects, 
 and a wide field is open to the entomologist, for 
 many rare and beautiful butterflies abound on 
 these fells, among them I may mention 
 
 Chionalias Norna. 
 Erebia Medusa. 
 
 Embla peculiar I believe to Sweden. 
 Disa. 
 Manto. 
 
 Melitaea Iduna peculiar to Sweden. 
 Argynnis Freja. 
 Polaris. 
 Dia. 
 
 Frigga. 
 Thore. 
 
 Colias Boothii. 
 Nastes. 
 
 Lycaena Aquila which has only yet been taken at 
 Quickiock, by Walberg, and considered 
 the rarest butterfly in Sweden. 
 Lyrichlns Centaurus, and some others. 
 
168 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 This sort of collecting was a new game to me, 
 but I bought a largish collection, which, however, 
 turned out scarcely worth sending to England. 
 Being nothing of an entomologist myself, it is 
 very probable that the legs and antennge might 
 have been wanting to some of my specimens ; but 
 still one would have thought that a collection of 
 insects from a fell tract would have been interest- 
 ing in England ; but no one seemed to care any- 
 thing for it. 
 
 It seems that an old German had been up here 
 collecting, and every man and boy in the parish 
 had acquired a taste for entomology. 
 
 I used often to laugh at the little lads here. 
 They had all caught up a smattering of the Latin 
 names from this old German professor, and they 
 used to come into my room, their caps covered 
 with beetles and butterflies impaled upon pins, for 
 every one of which they had a Latin name, such 
 as I am certain could be found in no work on 
 entomology now extant. However, " Keitel " 
 (this was the old German) called it so, and their 
 scale of prices seemed to be completely regulated 
 by what " Keitel " paid them. In fact " Keitel " 
 was the authority in this little village regarding 
 insects, as doubtless I shall be for the future as 
 regards birds and eggs. 
 
 But the Lap insect of which everyone has heard 
 
FISH, REPTILES, AND INSECTS OF LAPLAND. 169 
 
 is the mosquito, and it is a pity that this is not 
 worth collecting, or a man might make his fortune 
 in a week. I had heard such fearful accounts 
 of the swarms of mosquitoes which we should 
 encounter up here, and so many different remedies 
 as preventives against their bites were recom- 
 mended to me, that I really began to fancy in the 
 summer we should not be able to get on at all. 
 Some recommended smearing the face with train 
 oil and tar, but as it seems that if any of this 
 mixture happens to get into your eyes or nose 
 you stand a very good chance of being blinded or 
 suffocated, I was inclined to think that the remedy 
 would be worse than the disease. One botanist 
 assured me that it was quite impossible to collect 
 flowers in Lapland during July, because you can't 
 well collect in gloves (I should fancy not), and it 
 was impossible to have the hands bare on account 
 of these plagues. But he was a very fine gentle- 
 man, and when I looked at his delicate lady-like 
 hands I thought it very probable that the mosqui- 
 toes would prefer his blood to that of a smoke- 
 dried Lap. One recommended great green specs ; 
 another a green veil, such as " gents" wear on the 
 Derby day. I wonder no one recommended a 
 patent respirator. Mr. Buckland, in a letter to 
 the Field of Aug. 29, 1863, recommends spirits 
 of turpentine as an infallible remedy against the 
 
170 A SPUING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 attacks of mosquitoes. He says that any chemist 
 could, as the doctors have it, make up the turpen- 
 tine into an elegant formula in the shape of an 
 ointment, which could be easily spread over the 
 face and hands. I shall certainly give this a trial 
 next year. However, as I have ever during my 
 wanderings consoled myself with this reflection, 
 that where one man can live another can ; and, 
 moreover, as I had already stood the attacks of the 
 mosquitoes for a fewyears in the Australian swamps, 
 I made up my mind to chance it ; and all I can say 
 is, that although just before rain I have been much 
 annoyed by them, I never was once prevented 
 from shooting, and I used neither gloves, veil, 
 tar, or any other preventive. It was true that 
 the summer of 1862 was cold and windy, and all 
 said that there were fewer mosquitoes than usual ; 
 and another thing, although very rapacious, I 
 fancy your mosquito is a dainty feeder, and all 
 flesh does not suit its taste, for they seldom 
 trouble me much; whereas my lad, who was a 
 juicy young red-faced peasant, used to complain 
 dreadfully, and as he was out much more than 
 myself he had far more experience. The worst is at 
 night. It is not so much their bite as their horrid 
 buzz which annoys me, and I never can tell from 
 what quarter it is coming. You must be very 
 careful never to leave windows or doors open 
 
FISH, EEPTILES, AND INSECTS OF LAPLAND. 171 
 
 here in the summer, and must even stop up the 
 chimney, for they will find their way into a room 
 through the smallest aperture. But the mosquito 
 is not entirely confined to Lapland, for I recollect 
 this very summer sleeping in a house by the banks 
 of the Yenern, in South Wermland, Sweden. I 
 had been hard wading for ducks all day, and being 
 very tired, turned in early, while it was yet light. 
 When I went into my room there were, I am sure, 
 more than a thousand mosquitoes flying up and 
 down the window panes, and their music was so 
 loud that, tired as I was, there was no chance of 
 sleeping. I could not open the window, so I lit 
 my pipe and crept quietly to bed, and for about 
 an hour lay in a constant state of anxiety watching 
 them, dreading that one might find me out and 
 bring the whole mob down upon me. They evi- 
 dently partly " winded" me, for occasionally one 
 would come piping half way across the room in 
 the direction of my bed. However, they never 
 seemed quite to be able to get on the scent, and 
 as soon as it was dark they all became quiet. 
 Mosquitoes are certainly not pleasant companions, 
 either out of doors or in bed ; but I take it that a 
 good deal of exaggeration has been used as 
 regards their numbers and annoyance. And I 
 do not believe that any one need be frightened to 
 visit Lapland on their account. 
 
CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 A CHAPTER ON THE MAMMALIA BELONGING TO THIS 
 DISTRICT. 
 
 THE different quadrupeds met with in the district 
 around Quickiock I shall just slightly notice, with- 
 out going into their natural history or habits, for 
 I can state nothing new with respect to any one 
 of them. 
 
 I have already noticed the reindeer; but I 
 cannot help here contradicting the statement I 
 met with in "Wood's Natural History/' quoted 
 from the Field newspaper, where the writer says : 
 " There is nothing of the antlered monarch about 
 the reindeer, but a careworn, nervous expression, 
 which I do not wonder at, considering how they 
 are bullied. There are creatures which sting them 
 all over, and creatures which lay their eggs in 
 their ears and nostrils, and make themselves com- 
 fortable under their skin ; and wolves, and glut- 
 tons, and dogs, and Laps ; in short, I know of no 
 animal so persecuted, barring a rat (and he has 
 his revenge, and lives on the fat of the land), and 
 nothing in return except snow and moss, which 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 173 
 
 tastes like sponge." Whatever the reindeer moss 
 tastes like I cannot say, but that the reindeer 
 thrive on it is proved by the fact that no park- 
 fed deer in England can look fatter and sleeker 
 than the reindeer when they come down from the 
 fells at the end of summer ; in fact, " fat as a rein- 
 deer" is a common saying here. It is true they 
 have their enemies, and so has every other living 
 creature : not even man himself, the monarch 
 of all. But the reindeer has plenty of cunning 
 and ability to evade his persecutors. It is very 
 rarely that a bear attacks the reindeer, and, 
 though both the wolf and the glutton occasionally 
 make havoc among the herd, it is not half so often 
 as one might suppose. They escape the attacks 
 of the insects in the summer by moving on to the' 
 very highest fells. Certainly, the reindeer that 
 are used for draught are bullied enough ; but, for 
 all this, like the donkey at home, they do pretty 
 well as they please, and it does not seem to affect 
 their constitutions much. But a man must not 
 look at a herd of draught reindeer, tethered round 
 a Laplander's encampment, and take them as a 
 sample. He must go on to the fells in the middle 
 of summer, and watch a herd wandering free, and 
 if he does not see quite such magnificent animals 
 as the real " antlered monarch of the forest," he 
 will at least see very different creatures from what 
 
174 A SEEING AND SUMMER IX LAPLAND. 
 
 he would be led to expect, after perusing the 
 above exaggerated description. I recollect the 
 last day I was on the fells ; we had a large brown 
 setter with us, which doubtless the reindeer took 
 for a wolf; and one magnificent old white rein- 
 deer bull, with the finest pair of antlers I ever 
 saw, followed us and kept our company for hours, 
 stopping when we stopped, and never leaving us 
 till we came upon the herd of about 600, feeding in 
 a fell valley, when he trotted off and joined them. 
 I thought I never in my life saw a much finer 
 animal for its size; and there was an elasticity 
 and freedom in his steps as he trod the heather 
 which showed that he, instead of us, was the true 
 monarch of this rude fell tract. 
 
 It was strange that there were no wild reindeer 
 in this district, although I believe about Gellivare, 
 and further north in Lapland, they are to be met 
 with. 
 
 The elk (Cervus alces, Lin.) is not met with 
 so far north. But, thanks to the care with which 
 they are now preserved, this noble animal is yearly 
 more and more spreading in Wermland ; and as, 
 through the kindness of a friend, in whose forest 
 they are now tolerably numerous, I have had more 
 than one opportunity of joining in the chase of 
 the elk, I trust that the following description of 
 an elk skall, in 1861, although not strictly re- 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 175 
 
 ferring to Lapland, may not be deemed out of 
 
 place here : 
 
 THE ELK SKALL. 
 
 " Tell that if he does not come soon, 
 
 the elk and trout season will all be over." Such 
 was the message I received from a friend when I 
 came down from the fells in the middle of Octo- 
 ber, 1861. As I knew there was no time to lose, 
 for the elk season closes here on the 1st of No- 
 vember, I proceeded without delay to get my 
 tackle together, and, two days after, with a 
 peasant for my guide and baggage- carrier, I set 
 off, in anticipation of a pleasant and interesting 
 visit, in which hope I was not disappointed. The 
 invitation came from a friend, about twenty-five 
 miles north of us, a thorough sportsman, and the 
 owner of an immense tract of forest land, which 
 (for Sweden) was tolerably well stocked with 
 game. He has of late years been strictly pre- 
 serving the elk in his woods ; and, at a rough 
 guess, I should say his herds now number some 
 twenty or thirty head of deer. There is excellent 
 trout-fishing in the little mountain streams, which 
 intersect his forests in all directions; and two 
 lakes, situate on the top of the highest mountains, 
 are filled with charr (Sal. alpinus) probably the 
 southern limit of this fish in Sweden. I never yet 
 had the good luck to kill elk, and the charr was 
 
176 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 a fish I much wanted to study in its native waters. 
 Moreover, I was sure that I should receive a 
 hearty welcome in " Bachelor's Hall/' and that the 
 longer I stayed the better would my host be pleased. 
 
 I left home early on one of those lovely mild 
 mornings which we occasionally enjoy, even in 
 these northern climes, in the fall of the year. Our 
 way lay partly through the forests, partly by boat, 
 for about ten miles up a large stream, the " Bye 
 Elfven," which runs from the little northern town 
 of Arvika down to the Lake Wenern. Of course 
 I took my trolling tackle with me, although our 
 fishing season, especially for pike, was nearly over. 
 A walk of about six miles through the forest 
 brought us to the river- side, where I hired a boat 
 of a jolly cobbler, who, being himself a bit of a 
 fisherman, volunteered to accompany us. It is 
 true he had lots of work, which must stand still 
 during his absence; but the love of sport was 
 strong within him ; and as he knew every inch 
 of the stream, I gladly accepted his offer, gave 
 him a couple of shillings for his loss of time, and 
 off we started. 
 
 The morning was all that an angler could 
 wish, mild as spring, with just breeze enough up 
 the stream to raise a slight ripple on the water. 
 But the bright yellow leaves of the birch which 
 fringed the banks of the river, and that peculiar 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 177 
 
 stillness which reigns throughout the autumnal 
 landscape, unbroken save by the chattering of the 
 fieldfares and redwings passing southward, and 
 the occasional hoarse croak of the raven or hooded 
 crow all plainly spoke to us in mute and eloquent 
 language of the " dying year's decay." 
 
 We had some very fair sport with the rod, and 
 I reached my friend's house by sundown; and, 
 before turning in, we agreed to start early next 
 morning, fish the little mountain-streams up into 
 the forest, and find out, if possible, the most likely 
 ground to look for elk. 
 
 The situation of this estate is peculiar. The 
 house, saw-mills, iron-forges, and cultivated land, 
 are situate at the bottom of the mountains, by 
 the river-side, and the water that works the 
 machinery is supplied from the mountain-lakes. 
 These lakes lie, as it were, in a chain one above 
 the other, connected by streams which, in many 
 places, form pretty cascades over the bed of rocks, 
 in which are dams here and there for the purpose 
 of stopping and letting on the water, and long 
 shoots, or sluices, for carrying down the timber 
 from the high mountains to the saw-mills below, 
 which is an immense saving of land carriage. 
 When the water is well on, I never saw better 
 streams for trout here and there a still, deep 
 hole, but most of the water full of small eddies, 
 
178 A SPEING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 formed by the rugged character of the bottom. 
 There is, however, but little good to be done in 
 these streams, except when a flush of water is on ; 
 consequently, spring and autumn are the only 
 seasons when any sport can be had, and the only 
 bait that can be well used is the worm. The 
 higher lakes are, of course, the reservoir of the 
 trout ; and these streams also abound in crawfish 
 and minnows, certainly the finest, both in colour 
 and size, that I ever saw, for I took many of the 
 latter nearly six inches long. The highest lake 
 lies on a mountain top, some thousand feet above 
 the level of the river, surrounded by as wild a 
 tract of forest as I ever saw in my life. Every 
 kind of ground forest, swamp, and morass is 
 met with here. Many of the trees are of immense 
 growth. Some of the old pines, scathed and 
 branchless, stand like spectres among their living 
 brethren ; while others, borne down by old age, 
 lie rotting in the wind and sun the whole giving 
 one a very fair idea of the primaeval forests of the 
 north. Hill and dale, gully and range, for miles 
 and miles ; the mountains clothed with forest, the 
 lower gullies interspersed with morasses and lakes, 
 on many of which a boat has never floated, and 
 in whose waters a line has never been wetted. 
 Such is, more or less, the character of the whole 
 of this country from hence up to the North Cape, 
 
OX THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 179 
 
 save that a little further north we shall reach the 
 true fells, on whose rocky crests no vegetation, 
 save the moss and the lichen, can thrive. The 
 two lakes which hold the charr are situate on the 
 highest mountains, and appear like basins cut out 
 of the solid rock. In one, the rocky banks tower 
 perpendicularly above the water, which is, perhaps, 
 fifty fathoms deep at their base, the water as clear 
 as crystal, and even in summer icy cold. I could 
 not see a single weed or aquatic plant in either. 
 These lakes may, perhaps, cover 150 acres - 
 In one, no fish are met with but charr ; in the 
 other there are charr, trout, and minnows. I may 
 here mention that the trout peculiar to these lakes 
 is the common trout (Salmo fario), but they run 
 to a large size, 6 Ib. or even 8 Ib. not being un- 
 common. All that we took were very dark- 
 coloured, some nearly black. 
 
 "We started at day-break with two days' pro- 
 visions, and, rowing over two of the largest lakes, 
 one of which was nearly a mile long, we came 
 to our first stream. There was hardly flush of 
 water enough for first-rate sport, but the day was 
 beautiful, and we (three of us) managed to land 
 about 100 trout of all sizes, from 4 oz. to 2 Ib. Our 
 forester, who fished with a string line, a hazel 
 twig, and a hook and worm double the size I ever 
 saw used for trout, beat my fine tackle hollow. 
 
180 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 Altogether we had a delightful day. "We camped 
 at night in a forester's cottage, and, after a hearty 
 supper of fried trout, new milk, and some of the 
 very best potatoes I ever ate in my life, we threw 
 ourselves down on a bed of new hay spread for 
 us on the floor. In a few minutes I was dream- 
 ing of "flood and fell." 
 
 We set out next morning on the track of 
 the elk, and it was not long before we came on 
 fresh " spoor." This we followed up in a body, 
 instead of making a bend on each side, as we 
 should have done, and thus trying to head ^the 
 elk. The consequence was that they went on ; 
 and, after a tiring walk of about twelve miles 
 through the forest, every now and then rising 
 game which we could not fire at, we had the 
 disappointment of finding that the elk had 
 doubled back and returned to their old quarters 
 from whence we had driven them in the mornincr. 
 
 o 
 
 The herd consisted of a bull and cow. I did not 
 see them, but they passed within shot of one of 
 the wood-watchers who had no gun. The day 
 was now far spent, and, as we were six miles from 
 home, we left the forest at sundown. I never 
 remember so beautiful a night, for, as we rowed 
 across the large lake, the moon was just rising 
 over the top of the forest, and the northern 
 heaven was in a blaze with flashes of the aurora 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 181 
 
 borealis. I think I never saw so splendid a sky 
 before. Although disappointed, we were gratified 
 with the reflection that we knew where to look, for 
 the elk when we wanted them. 
 
 The next was a bye-day, and I took a stroll 
 in the forest with one of the watchers. It was, 
 perhaps, just then the very dullest of all seasons 
 for a forest ramble in the north. All the summer 
 migrants had left, the winter ones had hardly yet 
 come down, and not a single song-bird was heard. 
 Save the loud wild laugh of the great black wood- 
 
 ker, the shrill chirp of the crested tit, the 
 chattering of the crossbills, flitting from tree to 
 tree in search of fir cones, or the heavy measured 
 fall of the distant woodman's axe, scarce a sound 
 broke the solemn silence that reigned over all. 
 No woodland scene that I have witnessed can 
 equal the melancholy gloom of a northern forest 
 late in autumn, increased as it is by the damp aguish 
 appearance of the whole landscape at this season. 
 
 I picked up a blackcock and a hare, and at 
 night went out leistering for pike before the moon 
 rose. We had fairish sport, and in about two 
 liours I got 35 Ib. weight, but nothing large. It 
 is always a mystery to me where the big fish get 
 to in these waters. It is very rarely that ever we 
 kill a 14 Ib. fish ; and a pike of 10 Ib. I consider a 
 large fish up in Wermland. 
 
182 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 Another beautiful morning, mild as spring 
 in fact, such an autumn as this up to November, 
 I naver recollect in the north. We went up again 
 into the forest about 2 P.M., to try fishing again. 
 It seems, however, that the weather did not just 
 suit the trout, for we had hard work in about 
 two miles of water to catch enough for our dinner. 
 "We dined by the side of the lake, and then pro- 
 ceeded to lay out the long line, and this took 
 us till night. Our baits were dew- worms on large 
 perch-hooks. We also set four standing flews, a 
 species of net I never recollect seeing in England. 
 
 By the time we had finished our work, even- 
 ing was closing in ; and, as we had a keeper's 
 cottage within two miles, thither we repaired to 
 wait anxiously for the morning. In the night we 
 were joined by two friends, the one a regular 
 " bushman," one of the best bear and elk hunters 
 in the north ; the other a townsman, in a frock- 
 coat and Wellingtons, of whom a grim old 
 wood- watcher observed, en passant, " They should 
 not send such a fellow as that out into the forest 
 without a collar on him." However, he was the 
 only one of the party who was fated to get a shot 
 at an elk next day. 
 
 We were out as soon as day dawned, and it 
 was the very morning of all others for elk- shooting. 
 A little rain had fallen in the night, and a heavy 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTEICT. 183 
 
 mist hung over the forest like a dreary pall; the wind 
 blew gently from the south, and, as I loaded my gun 
 outside the cottage door, reminiscences of many 
 a hunting morning in the days of "auld lang syne" 
 rushed across my mind, and many an early break- 
 fast by the cheerful kitchen fire in the old house 
 at home (for the housemaid has not yet got the 
 parlour in order), and ride to covert on such a 
 morning, seemed like the visions of yesterday. It 
 was indeed a beautiful hunting morning ; but how 
 different our meet to those of the days of yore. 
 No merry chat, no jovial laugh all was silent as 
 the grave, and we looked more like a band of 
 conspirators in the grey twilight than a parcel of 
 jovial hunters. We had the elk in a gully between 
 us and the lake, in which our long line lay ; we 
 did not know how near they might be to us, and 
 the least noise might disturb them. Our only 
 chance of a shot was for the shooters to walk 
 silently through the forest for about two miles, 
 plant ourselves on a rise (over which the elk were 
 sure to come when the drivers roused them), and 
 wait quietly for the driven deer. We had four 
 guns and four drivers ; and, issuing strict orders 
 for the drivers to give us time enough, we picked 
 our way in silence through the wood, speaking 
 only in whispers, and soon reached our post. All 
 our caution, however, was not superfluous, for so 
 
184 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 keen is the sense of hearing in the elk that they 
 will start at any unwonted sound, which they 
 can hear at a surprising distance ; and once afoot, 
 there is no saying where they will stop. As I 
 was leaving the house I chanced to cough, when an 
 old weather-beaten forester, seizing me by the 
 arm, implored me, as if it were a matter of life 
 and death, to clap my cap tightly before my mouth 
 to deaden the sound in case I coughed again. By 
 all accounts it seems, as the Scotch would say, 
 that these elk are indeed " kittle cattle to shoe." 
 
 Never could we have a better chance of a shot, 
 for if the elk were only once started it was certain 
 that they would make for this rise, which was 
 bounded on one side by the charr lake, on the 
 other by a long open gully. This rise terminated 
 in a long tongue heavily timbered; and it was 
 here that two guns were planted, the other two 
 going on. I had the post to the extreme left, and 
 commanded the gully and the forest in front. My 
 next neighbour was "the Cockney," at about 400 
 yards distance. I had scarcely been on my post 
 a quarter of an hour before I heard a crashing 
 through the timber and the falling of loose stones 
 behind me ; and on looking round I saw a magni- 
 ficent cow elk quietly walking up the mountain- side 
 within about 300 yards of me. Instead of coming 
 up the gully, as I fancied would have been the 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 185 
 
 case, and ascending the gentle slope before me, she 
 had crossed the swamp behind us and chose the 
 most precipitous part of the mountain for her 
 ascent. But what mattered this to such an animal ? 
 It proved, however, how keen must have been her 
 sense of hearing ; for the drivers were at least a 
 mile distant, and yet she had heard them and left 
 her lair, in company with an old bull which crossed 
 the gully some hundred yards higher up. I had 
 nothing but a single smooth-bore, loaded with an 
 ounce ball ; and, as the distance was too far for a 
 certain shot, I would not fire, for there was a 
 chance of her coming nearer, and it was even on 
 the cards that there might be more behind her. 
 I therefore kept my gun down and stood motion- 
 less, watching the movements of one of our finest 
 forest game in the freedom of its native home ; and 
 this alone was worth a trifle. Although the elk 
 is a fine animal, there is something very ungainly 
 and repulsive in its appearance, and nothing of 
 that graceful airy bearing which characterises the 
 red deer. The large head, thick overhanging 
 upper lip, small pig eye, immense ears, and 
 bearded throat, give this animal a singular and 
 ferocious appearance ; and certainly a bull elk is 
 an awkward customer when brought to bay. The 
 movements of this cow were conducted in a very 
 leisurely manner; she would walk a few yards, 
 
186 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLANB. 
 
 then stand still snuffing up the air on all sides, 
 her large ears moving to and fro the whole 
 time. It was evident that she was totally uncon- 
 scious of the hidden danger that so closely 
 surrounded her, but appeared to be anxiously 
 listening for the beaters. What surprised me 
 most was that she did not smell me, for she had 
 a side wind. I had my gun on her three or four 
 times, for she presented a fair broadside, but the 
 distance was too great. She kept in sight of me 
 for nearly five minutes, when she moved slowly 
 on, right up to the next gun.- She was soon lost 
 to my view, and I anxiously waited for the report ; 
 nor did I wait long. " Bang ! " " ping " whistled 
 the bullet close by me, from which I made a fair 
 guess that my friend had missed ; but what puzzled 
 me most was that there was no shouting, nor did 
 I hear the elk go away. Of course I could not 
 move from my stand till I heard a challenge, and 
 the few minutes that intervened between the first 
 and second shots seemed to me an hour ; at length 
 it came, and a crashing through the timber told 
 me that the elk was not down. She was evidently 
 coming right up to me, and I stood like a statue, 
 with my gun cocked to give her the coup de grace. 
 But again I was doomed to disappointment. She 
 came in sight in an open space about 600 yards 
 below me, evidently hard hit. She stood still for 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 187 
 
 a few seconds, rocking to and fro, with her head 
 turned to me ; when at length recovering herself, 
 she struggled into the deep forest, and I saw her 
 no more. It appears that she came within thirty 
 yards of the stand next to me, and gave a fair 
 broadside to my friend with the double. He was 
 rather near-sighted, and at first could not make 
 out whether it was a cow or an elk, and, when he 
 had made out, was too excited to take a steady 
 aim; and this accounts for his ball whistling so 
 close past me. But the most singular part of the 
 affair is, after he fired, the elk stood stock still ; 
 and, according to his own account, forgetting that 
 he had a double gun, he proceeded to load again, 
 but, finding out his mistake, he fired his second 
 shot, when the elk made off. It was evident, 
 however, she was hard hit, for we soon found 
 blood on her " spoor," and when the beaters 
 came up we commenced a trail hunt. But " a 
 stern chase is a long chase; " and so it proved in our 
 case. We started on the trail about nine in the 
 morning, and followed it till six in the evening, 
 when we lost it in a swamp intersected with fresh 
 footmarks in every direction. It was beautiful to 
 watch the foresters follow this trail. It reminded 
 me exactly of a lot of hounds picking up a dead 
 scent on a grassy fallow. We could hit it off 
 pretty well at first ; but the swamps beat us, for 
 
188 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 there the tracts became so mixed. Although hard 
 hit (for we came upon many places in the swamps 
 where she had lain down to cool herself, and left 
 great patches of blood behind her), she was clearly 
 not mortally wounded ; and when we came to a 
 fallen tree about four feet high, which lay across 
 the track, and saw where she had scrambled over, 
 one of the old watchers remarked to me, " this 
 won't be an hour's job ;" and he was right. Tired 
 and disappointed, when we lost the trail we made 
 for a neighbouring cottage. I am certain we all 
 would have gladly bivouacked under the nearest 
 pine and waited till the first light of morning to 
 try and recover the lost trail ; but we had no pro- 
 visions, as we had fully depended upon breakfasting 
 at the keeper's house after the first drive, on fried 
 charr and probably an elk's liver. None of us had 
 tasted a mouthful since 5 A.M. we were, there- 
 fore, glad enough to reach the cottage ; and 
 although we got nothing but herrings and potatoes 
 for supper, I don't think I ever relished a meal 
 more in my life. 
 
 There was but one room in the house, and 
 this not a very large one. I was, therefore, 
 anxious to see how they would manage to bed us 
 all up ; for the household consisted of man and 
 wife, two children, two men servants, two maids, 
 an itinerant shoemaker, and a taciturn old gen- 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 189 
 
 ilemen farmed on the peasant at so much rye per 
 year. Eight of our party just filled up the floor. 
 Our bed, as usual, was dry hay, and we turned in 
 like troopers' horses, all standing, so closely packed 
 together that we could hardly turn ourselves, but 
 must sleep as we pitched. As I lay on my back I 
 curiously watched the household preparing for bed. 
 The man and wife occupied a niche in the wall, 
 and the two men servants another on the same 
 side. The children filled a small cot, and the two 
 girls crept into a box (it could hardly be called a 
 bed) in size and shape much resembling a coffin. 
 I could not exactly make out where the shoemakrr 
 got to. However, all seemed comfortable enough, 
 except the old gentleman, who sat on a bench 
 smoking his pipe, and refused to move for any one 
 till we were all down. Whether or not he 1 
 been turned out of his bed, or where he would 
 pitch, was a mystery to me. At first I thought 
 he meant creeping into the oven ; however, as 
 soon as we were quiet, he just curled himself up 
 like a dog on the hearthstone, close into the 
 burning ashes, and seemed to sleep as well as any 
 of us. There were thus eighteen of us stowed 
 a\vay in a cabin about ten yards long by six wide. 
 Tired as I was, it was impossible to sleep, for 
 every sleeper seemed to snore in a different key ; 
 so, as the moon had risen and the night was calm, 
 
190 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 I roused up one of the youngest of the foresters, 
 and we started out for the other charr lake that 
 lay near to the cottage, to fish by moonlight. I 
 had a line and hooks with me ; we made a fairish 
 rod out of a long sapling, and in about half an 
 hour were seated on a rock by the lake enjoying 
 the pure night air, now rendered doubly refreshing 
 by the contrast with the heated atmosphere we 
 had just quitted. I do not care where I sleep, or 
 how hard my bed is, if I have but air. A bivouac 
 in the forest, if the night is only clear, suits me 
 quite as well as the best furnished bedroom ; and 
 I can sleep just as sound with the grass for my 
 mattress, a log for pillow, and the sky for my 
 canopy, as in the best four-poster. But I cannot 
 stand a close bedroom. These peasants, however, 
 doubtless for the sake of the warmth, cannot lie 
 too close ; and certainly there is no mock modesty 
 about the peasant women. How they escape being 
 burnt in these close cottages I cannot imagine. 
 The fire burns all night, and instead of candles 
 they use splinters of turpentine fir, which they 
 carry in their hands, the sparks dropping about 
 all over the floor ; and I observed that each man 
 who brought in a bundle of hay for our beds, 
 carried a lighted fire- stick in his mouth. 
 
 I fished in water about ten fathoms deep, with- 
 out a float, my baits lob-worms, and a small white 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTEICT. 191 
 
 grub which we picked out of the rotten fir bark 
 (a favourite bait for charr). My guide every now 
 and then kept throwing in handfuls of dead yellow 
 birch leaves on to the top of the water, to attract 
 the fish. They bit capitally, and I would have 
 fished on till daylight, but the wind rose, the moon 
 became obscured, and, as dirty weather seemed 
 brewing, we went back to the cottage. Early to 
 bed and early to rise, is the motto here; and 
 although it wanted nearly three hours of daybreak, 
 the household were astir. The hunters were up, 
 the hay cleared off the floor, and breakfast was 
 preparing. The charr I had caught proved no 
 bad addition, and we luckily got some coffee. 
 
 It was about as nasty a morning for the forest 
 as we could well have ; a drizzling rain was falling, 
 and the fog was so thick that we could not dis- 
 tinguish an object at fifty yards' distance. But this 
 did not seem to make much impression on the 
 foresters. The elk must have fallen, and determined 
 they were to have it. However, they reckoned with- 
 out their host, for they never could hit upon the 
 lost trail again. 
 
 As soon as I could see, I started back to the 
 lake with -one of the watchers, to take up the long 
 line. The rest of the party went on in search of 
 the lost elk, and we agreed to meet by the side of 
 the lake, and dine off what charr we could catch, 
 
192 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 aided by whatever contributions we could levy 
 from a peasant's house in the neighbourhood. It 
 took us nearly four hours to get up the line. The 
 fish had evidently been well on the feed, for nearly 
 every worm was gone ; but owing to our having 
 left the line in the water a day too long, we lost a 
 great many fish. As it was, we caught about 
 seventy charr in all ; and a more splendid lot of 
 fish, when we laid them out on the grass, I never 
 beheld. Seven or eight weighed about 3 Ib. each, 
 and I remarked that these were all male fish, and 
 in splendid condition. The rest were of all sizes, 
 but the majority of them about 1 Ib. They were 
 all ready for spawning, and full of roe or milt. 
 The colours of the male fish, when just taken out 
 of the water, were brilliant in the extreme : nearly 
 black on the back, the belly and fins vermillion red, 
 the sides yellow spotted. But the colour quickly 
 fades after the fish dies. I did not observe in a 
 single specimen the crook in the under jaw peculiar 
 to the male salmon or trout in the spawning season. 
 I do not believe the charr spawn in the same 
 manner as the salmon, for, a few nights after, 
 when fishing by torchlight, I took up by the side 
 of the lake many branches covered with their 
 spawn. On referring to Thompson's " Natural 
 History of Ireland," as good a description as I 
 know of the charr will be found, and I can cor- 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 193 
 
 roborate many of his remarks. As lie says, they 
 vary so much in colour in different waters, that it 
 is hard to distinguish the male from the female. 
 In both these lakes there was no difficulty at all 
 in the matter. Bloch's figure of the Salmo salve- 
 linus is not bad, but his spots are too dark. 
 This is clearly a male fish ; and his figure of the 
 S. alpinus well represents our female fish. And 
 we took some quite grey, without spots, exactly 
 like his figure of the S. limata. Not a single one 
 of the large fish that we caught exhibited in the 
 slightest degree any transverse markings along 
 the sides, like the parr ; but in every young fish 
 from four to six ounces they were very conspicuous. 
 It seems, according to Thompson, that in some of 
 the Irish lakes the chair only appear about the 
 middle of October, and are then seen but for ten 
 days or so. I fancy, by his account, they are then 
 supposed to leave the lake ; but, in my opinion, 
 this is just the time they come on the shallows to 
 spawn, and directly that is over they draw back 
 again to the deeps ; at least such is the case in 
 our lakes. And they never leave the lake; for 
 although trout are always taken in the tributary 
 streams when there is a fresh of water, never has 
 a single chair been taken, except in the lake. The 
 charr spawn here in the end of October, and the 
 best fishing is from the time the birch leaves 
 
 o 
 
194 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 begin to fall, throughout the whole winter. They 
 will also bite till June. The best fishing is 
 certainly, however, in the winter, in the deep 
 water, through a hole cut in the ice. The hook in 
 use is covered on the shank with bright lead, in 
 the form of a small fish, and although sometimes 
 no bait is used, a little piece of fat pork stuck on 
 the point of the hook is a very good bait. I do 
 not believe a fly was ever cast or a bait spun in 
 these waters ; but I should say both would answer, 
 if you could only hit on the right pattern. The 
 charr in these lakes are not unfrequently taken up 
 to 51b. ; seldom larger. 
 
 About two we were joined by the rest of our 
 party; and camping on a beautiful rise by the 
 side of a small trout- stream, we " spread our 
 table-cloth." Butter, bread, milk, and potatoes 
 we procured from a neighbouring peasant, and we 
 made a splendid dinner off fried charr and " cham- 
 bertin;" for our host (who is not above enjoying 
 the good things of this life) keeps a small cellar, 
 and of a good vintage, too, at one of his keepers' 
 houses. Thus we enjoyed two luxuries in the 
 forest which many a bon vivant might envy. I 
 never tasted such fish as these charr far richer 
 than salmon, and the flesh blood-red. We went 
 home that night ; and none of us were sorry to 
 turn in between clean sheets. 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 195 
 
 The next day messengers were despatched to 
 some neighbouring friends to help to form a 
 "skall," on a large scale, the day after; and in 
 the evening we again camped in the forest. The 
 worst of these amateur skalls or battues is, that 
 they are sure to bring together so many of the 
 " Mr. Briggs" class of sportsmen ; and ours was 
 no exception to the general rule. We mustered 
 strong (about a dozen guns), two or three good 
 men and true, but the rest in far too blooming a 
 condition to live the pace over so severe a line of 
 country as this. One thing, however, was certain, 
 they were determined not to depend for their 
 dinner upon the elk we might shoot ; and it was, 
 indeed (as the Yankees would say), " a caution" to 
 see the knapsacks unpacked whenever a halt was 
 called. As the bottle went merrily round, each 
 one was loud in his own individual praise ; and it 
 was hard to say, from their own showing, which 
 was the keenest sportsman of the lot : but for all 
 this I was much inclined to think that 
 
 " Save at the flagon, 
 
 And prog in the waggon, 
 They did nought that the muse 
 Ever heard of to brag on.'' 
 
 This day's proceedings are easily described. 
 It was a succession of picnics from beginning to 
 end. We had scarcely finished breakfast before 
 
196 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 "Where shall we lunch?" was the cry; and the 
 same with dinner. The very beaters seemed to 
 have caught the infection ; and I could plainly see 
 at starting that on this day, at least, they were 
 determined not to lose us, for, believe me, we 
 did not trust them with the knapsacks. It was 
 indeed a jovial day ; but it is needless to say we 
 never saw an elk ; and the only shots that we 
 fired were at an empty bottle on a tree stump after 
 dinner, and very harmless shooting we made of it. 
 
 So much for our second " skall ;" two blank 
 days, and not much more than a week left of the 
 season. 
 
 The next day I walked home for another gun, 
 and on the 27th came back again ; for we had 
 made up our minds to give the woods a good 
 dusting the last three days of the season, and see 
 if our luck would not change. We had fixed the 
 28th for the skall, and I arrived about five o'clock 
 in the evening of the 27th, when I found the party 
 had started, but left word for me to follow them, 
 directly I came up, to one of the keepers 5 houses 
 in the forest, about six miles distant. This was 
 pleasant ; I had already walked twenty- four miles, 
 and I reckoned on a good supper and night's rest 
 to freshen me up for the morning. Moreover, the 
 moon would not rise till two, and to grope my 
 way through these thick woods by twilight was no 
 

 ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 197 
 
 joke. However, there was no help for it; so, 
 taking a fellow with me who said he knew the 
 way, we started. Night set in before we had got 
 half way. So far we had a little daylight, and all 
 went well; but darkness came on, and found us 
 in a thick forest, when it turned out that my guide 
 knew the way no better than myself. I knew very 
 little of the lay of the country, but I have found from 
 old experience that, when once bushed in the dark, 
 it is little good wandering about to try to hit off 
 the lost path ; the best plan is either to camp up 
 at once, or strike out one certain direction and 
 keep it, for sooner or later it must bring you up 
 somewhere ; whereas if you keep wandering round 
 and about, you tire yourself without making the 
 least headway. An old trapper once remarked to 
 me, that when you are lost at night in a forest, 
 nine cases out of ten, your tent is sure to lie 
 directly in the opposite direction from which you 
 fancy it does, and this I have found correct. The 
 night was thick and cloudy, or the stars might 
 have guided us; a drizzly rain was coming on, 
 and the prospect of camping out on such a night 
 was annoying. I heard a waterfall in the distance, 
 and this I was determined to make for. I fancied 
 if I got to the side of a stream I should know 
 better where I was. The fellow I had with me 
 was moreover an arrant cur ; so I struck out my 
 
198 A SPKING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 path, and kept it. The waterfall could not have 
 been more than a mile and a half distant, but the 
 wood was so thick, and the ground so covered 
 with fallen timber, over which we kept tumbling 
 about every five minutes, that we were nearly two 
 hours before we reached it. However, when we 
 got there my guide knew that if we followed it 
 down for about two miles we should reach one of 
 the keepers' houses ; and right glad was I to see 
 a light at last in his cottage window. After wan- 
 dering for about six hours, we were nearly as far 
 from the meet as when we left home. The keeper 
 was getting ready to start, but, like an old soldier, 
 would wait till the moon rose, for he said that 
 even he, who was bred in the forest, would hardly 
 venture out on such a night. A cup of coffee and 
 four hours on the floor (after the old fashion, five 
 women and two men in the same room) was any- 
 how better than a night in the forest, for it was 
 indeed a wild night, and the old pine-trees fairly 
 groaned and cracked " 'neath the howling blast." 
 However, when the moon rose the weather cleared, 
 and at four we started. No fear now of losing 
 my way with such a bloodhound for my guide. 
 He was in great hopes this time ; for although, as 
 he said, our party was small, they were all good 
 men. Each man had to bear his own provisions 
 for three days. At six we reached the keeper's 
 
GIST THE MAMMALIA OF TUTS DISTRICT. 199 
 
 cottage, and found all in a bustle ; and I could 
 plainly see now that mischief was meant, and 
 that 
 
 " Still the best horse was reserved for the day 
 When Pilton was named as the meet." 
 
 After the hearty greetings usual on such 
 occasions had been exchanged, we got our break- 
 fit >t, and then commenced pivpa rations for the 
 " skall." We were all marshalled in front of the 
 house, and one of the oldest wood- \vatcluTS and 
 my friend the bushman were masters of the cere- 
 monies. We mustered in all about seventeen. 
 The seven best men were picked out for shooters, 
 the rest for drivers. Each man had a number 
 chalked upon his breast or cap; and the old 
 forester laid down the plan of 'the day. And now 
 I had time to give a glance over the ranks, and 
 a hardier, more weather-beaten crew I think I 
 never saw in my life ; and formidable opponents 
 would such men prove in a guerilla war against 
 any enemy who dared to attack them in the fast- 
 nesses of their native forests. All were armed 
 to the teeth, and each had the Swedish bushman 's 
 never-failing friend, the axe, stuck in the girdle of 
 his leather apron. But if space only allowed me 
 to describe the guns which were brought out for 
 this occasion ! I have certainly seen some mar- 
 vellous " spouts" at a day[s rook or rabbit shoot- 
 
200 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 ing in England, but never anything like the 
 extraordinary machines I saw on this morning. 
 I would have given a trifle to have picked out six 
 of the most antediluvian, and placed them for 
 exhibition in the Field window. The process of 
 loading commenced; and when I saw misfitting 
 bullets hammered down upon charges of blasting 
 powder which would try the best English barrel, 
 and examined the locks, half of which would not 
 stand at half-cock, and many at hardly any cock 
 at all, while some triggers were without any 
 guards I really considered that it would be 
 indeed a miracle if no serious accident happened 
 this day. One old backwoodsman begged me to 
 examine his lock, upon the construction of which 
 he much prided himself. It seemed to be altogether 
 destitute of a scear, but with a famous mainspring. 
 Of course, a trigger was useless in such a piece of 
 machinery ; and he explained to me, that when he 
 fired he had nothing to do but draw up the cock 
 sharply, and let it fall again on the cap. I was 
 well pleased when the examination concluded, for 
 I expected every moment, as he was fiddling with 
 the lock, that the gun would go off in his hand. 
 These peasants are in the highest degree inquisi- 
 tive, and my gun and appointments were all 
 critically examined, even down to the very buttons 
 of my shooting- coat. .1 was armed with a small 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTBICT. 201 
 
 double gun, and unfortunately left my spare single 
 behind. Moreover, I had only six conical balls, for 
 I considered it was 100 to 1 if I got so many shots 
 at elk in one skall. But the sequel will prove the 
 truth of the old adage, that " store is no sore." 
 
 The first drive was precisely over the same 
 ground as on the previous occasion, and I took 
 my old stand. Three guns were left on this 
 tongue of land, and four were sent over the lake 
 to wutch a winter way through the forest, where 
 it was probable the elk might break. The arrange- 
 ments were beautifully carried out. We had an 
 hour allowed us to plant ourselves before the 
 beaters started, and I felt confident now, that if 
 elk were only in the drive, one or other of us 
 would surely get a shot. When the heavy mist 
 had cleared away, the sun broke out in all its 
 splendour, and even in England I never remember 
 a more glorious autumnal day. This was lucky 
 for us sentries, for the drive was a long one, and 
 it was nearly two hours before I heard the cries 
 of the beaters. They came nearer and nearer, but, 
 passing by us in the forest below, I gave up this 
 drive as a bad job, for, had elk been in, I naturally 
 fancied we should have seen or heard them before 
 this. I was, therefore, just preparing to leave 
 my post, when a heavy shot to my right boomed 
 over the lake, which was in about five minutes 
 
202 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 answered by another, and all was still. After 
 waiting for perhaps ten minutes, in case any elk 
 might head back to us, we rowed over the lake, 
 and, making for the smoke of the bivouac fire 
 curling over the tops of the trees, found the whole 
 party assembled. It was very plain to read in 
 their countenances that they had got no elk. It 
 seems that a magnificent bull- elk came up singly 
 within twenty yards of the oldest wood- watcher, 
 who fired, when the elk dashed on apparently 
 unhurt, and some minutes after another flying 
 shot was fired at him with no better luck. No 
 one was more disappointed than the old watcher 
 himself, who fired the first shot ; and as he was 
 regarded as one upon whom some dependence 
 ought to have been placed, he was not a little 
 " chaffed" at missing what appeared to the others 
 who saw it a very easy shot. I saw the old boy 
 was annoyed, and I therefore proposed a stroll 
 together to the spot where he had stood, partly to 
 see if we could find any indications of the elk 
 being wounded, and partly to avoid the " chaff," 
 which was now becoming personal. 
 
 We strolled on in the forest, following the 
 spoor of the elk, when, suddenly coming to a burn 
 with steepish banks, we could plainly see that the 
 elk had fallen when crossing it, and marks of 
 blood were evident on the other side where he 
 

 ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 203 
 
 had struggled up. This was cheering. We now- 
 separated, for the spoor became confused, and I 
 had not left him many minutes before the Swedish 
 "who-whoop" rang through the forest, and on 
 running up I had the satisfaction of seeing the 
 noble brute lying dead on his side, the keeper's 
 ball, which was easily recognized by its size, as 
 his gun was nearly the calibre of a small blunder- 
 buss, having passed clean through it. The elk 
 had, however, gone perhaps two English miles 
 before he fell. " They laugh best who laugh last," 
 is an old Swedish proverb, and it was now the old 
 boy's turn. I could see he had been " fairly 
 riled," for his skill in woodcraft had been called 
 in question . Our shouts soon brought up the rest 
 of the party, and great was the rejoicing over the 
 fallen beast. I had never seen a dead elk before, 
 and the bulk of this huge animal as he lay on the 
 ground struck me indeed with astonishment. 
 
 He was about six years old by his horns, which 
 were magnificent. His length as he lay, from 
 nose to tail, was about 9 feet ; the height over his 
 withers more than 6 feet ; and his carcass, when 
 dressed, was guessed by the old hands to weigs 
 nearly ICOOlb. Whether this was correct or 
 not, however, I could have no means of judging, 
 but I daresay it was not far from the mark. His 
 throat was immediately cut (although he had been 
 
204 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 dead some time) for the sake of making some 
 blood- cakes with flour. The blood of every animal 
 is eaten here with great avidity. I can bring my- 
 self pretty well to every kind of diet, and, as may 
 be supposed, in a wandering life like mine, I have 
 eaten many curious kinds of dishes ; but these 
 blood- cakes I cannot stand. Another fire was 
 soon kindled close to where the elk lay, and after 
 he was " grulloched" we left him, intending to 
 sledge him home next day. We did not forget, 
 however, to cut away a good supply of beef for 
 our supper ; and in high glee we all set off for 
 another drive. This, however, was unsuccessful, 
 and lasted till sundown, when we all made for the 
 cottage where we had slept on the previous occa- 
 sion. I was the only one who fired a shot in the 
 second drive, for just as it was ending, and we 
 were certain that no elk were on foot, a fine male 
 capercailzie, disturbed by the beaters, perched on a 
 fir about 100 yards from me, and I cut him out very 
 prettily with a single ball. I was rather pleased, 
 as I had never yet tried the range of my gun. 
 
 Our party, on returning to the cottage, was 
 too large for all to obtain a shake-down indoors ; 
 so it was agreed that we " swells" should have 
 the floor, and the mob light a large fire and 
 bivouac outside. The evening was spent in listen- 
 ing to adventures of forest and fell, each man 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 205 
 
 endeavouring to outvie the other. It has often 
 been a question in my mind whether the lies which 
 one generally hears when a parcel of " falconers, 
 fishermen, and hunters are wont to congregate," 
 are spontaneous and hatched on the spot, or 
 whether there is a glimmering of truth at the 
 bottom. Harmless as this practice of drawing the 
 long-bow may be when confined only to a man's 
 own exploits, it is attended with this serious dis- 
 advantage, one never knows how much to beli- 
 and doubtless many a true tale is set down as 
 false. For my part, I dare scarcely ever make a 
 note of what I hear out here, and probably lose 
 much valuable information from the fact of doubt- 
 ing its truth. 
 
 The night was chilly, and the blue faces of 
 those who had camped out (their beards and 
 whiskers powdered with the white hoar-frost) 
 looked grim enough in the grey twilight of morning. 
 However, no one complained. We had a rare 
 line of country for the day's drive, where we were 
 certain to find elk, and all were impatient to be 
 "up and at them." We had nearly six miles to 
 walk to our posts, and the drivers had to make a 
 wide circuit, commencing at the very boundary of 
 the estate, to drive the elk back into the home 
 forests. It was therefore nearly four hours before 
 we heard anything of them again. My post on 
 
206 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 this occasion was beautifully chosen. At my back 
 a deep forest *ose for several hundred feet, in 
 front was a swampy meadow (perhaps 600 yards 
 across, and two English miles long), through 
 which ran as sweet a little trout stream as I have 
 ever seen in this country or anywhere else. Beyond 
 this rose another deep forest, and as it was pretty 
 certain that the driven elk would cross this meadow 
 and stream to reach the forest at the back of us, 
 the guns were planted, but at wide intervals (for 
 we had to command a long line), along the little 
 stream. I lay at the foot of an old pine, lazily 
 watching the trout rising in the little stream at my 
 feet. The air was warm as spring ; the sun shone 
 clear in an unclouded sky, over as fair a panorama 
 of nature as the eye ever gazed upon. 
 
 " Beetling crags hung high above me, 
 
 Ever looking grandly rude ; 
 Still there was some trace of mildness 
 In this scene so weird. Its wildness 
 Might be sought for solitude." 
 
 All at once the distant cry of the beaters 
 broke upon my ear, and at the same moment I 
 heard a crashing in the forest before me. Start- 
 ing up from my reverie, I saw a bull elk walking 
 leisurely down to the meadow, as if he apparently 
 meant to cross right opposite to where I sat. He 
 had evidently heard the beaters, for he would 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 207 
 
 every now and then stand still and listen, his 
 long ears all the while moving backwards and 
 forwards, but he was quite unconscious of the 
 danger which menaced him in front. He seemed 
 all at once to change his mind, and instead of 
 coming into the open, kept on in the forest, and 
 I soon lost sight of him. The meadow made a 
 bend beyond me, and I could only just see the 
 shooter next to me, at about 400 yards' distance. 
 I now felt certain that the elk, if he crossed the 
 meadow, would do so at the extreme point to my 
 right, where a double gun was planted, and it w.is 
 with no little anxiety that I waited for its report. 
 The elk, however, seemed in no hurry, and a 
 quarter of an hour elapsed before a double shot, 
 quickly followed by a single one, and a loud shout 
 to " Pass up " (look out), told me that he had 
 turned and was coming down the meadow back 
 again upon us. He was soon in sight, and came 
 on at a shambling trot, evidently wounded. He 
 dashed at the brook above, in the very face of the 
 next gun ; but the fellow was far too excited to 
 take a steady aim, and missed him. He now 
 turned straight down to me. The track in winch 
 I was standing (for I had moved a little way up 
 into the wood) was so narrow that the elk had to 
 force his way through it ; but in far less time than 
 I can take to write it, he was down upon me, 
 
208 A SPUING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 maddened with pain and rage, in a headlong, 
 desperate charge. I never should have believed 
 that he could come at such a pace. I took as 
 steady an aim as the circumstances and hurry- 
 allowed, and fired point-blank at his chest. It 
 was a snap-shot, and I missed him clean. I had 
 but a moment to struggle backwards into the 
 bushes (for the underwood was very thick) when 
 he was close on me, and in a few seconds would 
 have reached me. My second shot, however, told, 
 and he fell within a foot of me. I could just in- 
 distinctly see a huge dark mass roll over at my 
 feet with a thundering crash ; but, such was the 
 excitement of the moment, that I saw nothing 
 more. It was clear that I had had, indeed, a very 
 narrow escape. But even now he was not quite 
 dead, and there was something awful to witness 
 in his death-struggles. I soon, however, " picked 
 myself together," and, quickly loading, put a 
 bullet through his ear, thus ending his agony and 
 his life. I was not the only one who had a nar- 
 rowish escape on this occasion, for the next man 
 to me, as soon as he missed and turned the elk, 
 instead of standing at his post, ran on after him, 
 shouting all the while to me to look out. The 
 consequence was, he was right in the line of my 
 fire, and my first ball, which missed the elk, 
 glanced off a rock (as we could see afterwards), 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 209 
 
 and cut the bark off a fir-tree a few inches from 
 his head. However, this appeared to be regarded 
 by the foresters as a very trivial circumstance ; 
 and had 1 killed the man I am confident that if a 
 jury had been impanelled on the spot, the verdict 
 would have been " served him right/' Upon ex- 
 amining the dead elk, it seemed that two balls 
 from the first shots had entered his loins, without, 
 however, touching a vital part, and but for my 
 second shot, he would probably have gone away 
 as strong as ever. By his horns he seemed about 
 fi\v years old, but smaller than the one we had 
 already killed. 
 
 Now the elk was down, the next question was, 
 how to get him out of the forest, for it was im- 
 possible for a sledge with horses to reach the spot 
 where he lay. We were just one mile from the 
 nearest lake into which the little trout-stream ran, 
 and it was decided that he must be carried there 
 and rowed across in a boat. This certainly did 
 not appear an easy task, looking at the huge car- 
 case that lay on the ground; nothing, however, 
 is too hot or too heavy for these peasants, if you 
 only give them time. Two young fir-trees were 
 soon cut down, and trimmed up for bearing-poles ; 
 while the beaters cut a lot of long willow twigs, 
 and, twisting them round and round till they were 
 as pliant as cord, a sort of net- work palanquin 
 
210 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 was formed, strong enough, as was observed, to 
 carry a house. The ponderous burden was soon 
 hoisted on the shoulders of eight powerful men, 
 who marched off with it in triumph. 
 
 An hour's rest had enabled us to enjoy our 
 dinner and our pipes, and as soon as the beaters 
 returned, we arranged the last drive for a fresh 
 tract, and a certain one. This was the widest 
 drive of all, but the beaters had not to go so far 
 as ourselves. We walked through the forest for 
 about four miles, till we came to a large swamp, 
 at the end of which was a forest lake. Several 
 wooded rises ran out into the swamp in tongues, 
 and had the trees only been different I should 
 have fancied myself again in Australia for it 
 gave me a very fair idea of an Australian bush 
 scene, and was precisely the sort of ground we 
 should have drawn for kangaroo in that country. 
 From the tracks it was evident that the elk were 
 continually coming down these tongues of forest 
 to save the swamp, and on each of these rises we 
 left one or two guns. My post was at the ex- 
 treme end of the swamp, to guard a favourite pass 
 by the side of the lake. It was certainly the 
 surest stand, and was assigned to me out of com- 
 pliment, as a stranger, on account of the nature 
 of the ground. Our line stretched, I should say, 
 a mile and a half, and I was at least half a mile 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 211 
 
 from the gun below me. I had certainly a beau- 
 tiful stand. On my right was the lake, within 
 fifty yards ; and by its side a well-worn run 
 proved that the elk often came that way. The 
 swamp here terminated in a point, and was not 
 100 yards over. A clump of fir-trees, covering a 
 stony rise of perhaps 100 acres, was at my back ; 
 and fronting me just over the swamp, the forest 
 rose on a rocky mountain some hundred feet high, 
 so perpendicular and steep that it seemed almost 
 impossible for any creature to keep his legs com- 
 ing down it. Directly in front of me, however, 
 was a clear run from the mountain-top, and if the 
 elk were started it was next to certain they would 
 come down this run, and either cross the little 
 hill on which I was stationed, or pass to my right, 
 and, skirting the lake, make for the deep forest 
 which lay behind me. Such at least were the 
 calculations of my old friend the wood-watcher, 
 and they were borne out to the letter. I had not 
 forgotten my old bush experience as a kangaroo 
 hunter, and sitting down in front of a large pine 
 close to the edge of the swamp, and cutting some 
 fir-branches I made a little screen before me, be- 
 hind which I ensconced myself, like a jolly old 
 spider in his web, on the look-out for any unfortu- 
 nate fly that might chance to come within his 
 toils. I lighted my pipe, and was very comfort- 
 
212 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 ably reading an old number of the Field which 
 I happened to have in my pocket (for I always 
 like if possible to have something readable with 
 me whenever I leave home), when suddenly I 
 heard such a crashing and rolling of loose stones 
 down the mountain side in front of me that I 
 fancied a whole mob of elk must be coming right 
 down upon me. The pipe was soon out of my 
 mouth, and the paper in my pocket, and with my 
 gun cocked I peered anxiously through my leafy 
 bower up the hill in front of me. But my sus- 
 pense was short, for right opposite to me I saw 
 an immense old cow elk and calf come trotting 
 down the hill with as much ease and action as a 
 high-stepping cab horse over 'the London stones. 
 The loose stones flew in all directions, but neither 
 stopped to look back till they reached the bottom, 
 when they both pulled up, appeared to listen for 
 the distant beaters, and then commenced walking 
 leisurely across the swamp right up to me. To 
 say that I was not nervous would be to tell an 
 untruth, for depend upon it, let the man be who 
 he may, if he has but one ounce of flurry in his 
 composition, such a moment will bring it out. 
 Here I had them all to myself, and if I made a 
 lucky double-shot I should be by long chalks the 
 king of the day. Thus whispered ambition. But 
 then prudence, or perhaps cowardice, stept in. I 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 213 
 
 had only two balls left, Laving fired one at the 
 capercailzie and three at the last bull, and no 
 weapon besides my gun save a butcher's common 
 case-knife. I well knew, from what I had read, 
 that a wounded elk was a roughish kind of play- 
 thing, and moreover lies or no lies I had not 
 quite forgotten the hairbreadth escapes, and other 
 little incidents attendant upon the chase of the 
 elk, which had been poured into my ear by the 
 foresters on the night previous. Moreover, all 
 the pines near me were branchless within twenty 
 feet of the ground ; it was impossible " to tree " 
 in case the wounded cow rushed at me. The 
 reader may possibly say, " What fear of an old 
 cow without horns ?" But gently ; it is not the 
 horns so much as the dreadful long fore-feet that 
 are the offensive weapons in the elk ; and as I look 
 on this very cow's hoofs, now dried and lying on 
 my table, I feel very little inclination to shake 
 hands with such a monster. However, they came 
 marching very leisurely across the swamp. I had 
 my gun at my shoulder, when I was rather puzzled 
 which to take first. The calf was probably the 
 easiest and surest shot ; but then I fancied if I 
 shot it down I stood a poor chance against the 
 infuriated mother, unless I luckily killed her dead 
 with one bullet, which was far from probable. I 
 thought it best, therefore, to fire first at the cow ; 
 
214 A SPUING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 for if I did luckily bring her down with the first 
 ball the calf was mine, and anyhow I had then a 
 spare ball left. Had I been an old elk-hunter, I 
 should have waited till they came right up to the 
 muzzle of my gun, for it was plain now that they 
 neither saw nor smelt me, but evidently meant 
 crossing the rise close to me ; and I made another 
 mistake, excusable in a green hand, for, instead 
 of sending a bullet right into the chest, which 
 might have brought her down at once, I aimed at 
 her forehead. We all know that the curl in the 
 forehead is a vital part in a bullock's head. An 
 elk, however, carries its head not like an ox, but 
 in a horizontal position, the nose nearly in a line 
 with the withers, thus presenting little or no front 
 to aim at. She was exactly twenty-five yards 
 from me when I pulled the trigger for I measured 
 it afterwards and my bullet instead of crashing 
 into her forehead, struck just "a leetle bit" too 
 high, and glanced off. It, however, brought her 
 up pretty quick; she looked about for a few 
 seconds, wondering what the deuce was up (but 
 she did not see me), and turning leisurely round, 
 headed up the swamp. I had now a fair broad- 
 side, and sent my second bullet right through her 
 shoulder. She fell on her knees, but instantly 
 recovering herself, started up, and for a few 
 seconds stood still, fiercely looking round her. All at 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 215 
 
 once her eye caught sight of me, for I had now 
 sprung up, and never shall I forget the look of 
 wild reproach which she cast upon me. She was then 
 evidently debating whether she should charge me 
 or not. I was behind the tree in an instant, and 
 got the gun-barrels out of the stock, as the best 
 weapon I had at hand. She, however, thought 
 better of it, and after standing for perhaps half a 
 minute " backing and filling like a ship in stays " 
 to use a nautical phrase she walked quietly 
 down the swamp, with her calf at her side, allow- 
 ing me lots of time to have loaded both barrels and 
 fire again if I had had more bullets. In these 
 skalls it is a very good plan to have a couple of 
 bullets, properly patched, sewed on the outside of 
 your shooting jacket, as they are ready at hand and 
 torn off in an instant. I could see that she was 
 dreadfully wounded, for she could hardly get along, 
 and stopped three or four times on her road, and 
 I fancied on each occasion would drop. She, how- 
 ever, reached the next rise, her calf keeping pace 
 with her, and I lost sight of them for the time. 
 
 It is not easy to express the mortification which 
 I felt at losing so splendid a prize as a cow elk 
 and calf, and all for want of a couple more bullets ; 
 and as soon as the excitement was over I must 
 say I trust without being accused of maudlin 
 sentiment that a feeling of remorse and pity rose 
 
216 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 uppermost in iny mind. From my little experience 
 I could see that the elk is a tame unsuspecting 
 animal, and there was something very cowardly in 
 the way I had assaulted these two. Perhaps, had I 
 been lucky enough to kill the cow and calf, a 
 feeling of triumph would have outweighed any other; 
 but as it was I had sent her away probably to die 
 a lingering death in the forest where no one would 
 find her, and I grieved for the fate of the poor calf, 
 which, if it escaped the other guns, would wander 
 alone and unprotected through the deep forest, or 
 probably stand through the chilly autumn night 
 moaning over the dead body of its mother. But 
 I had little time for such reflections. Three more 
 bangs to my left told me that they had reached 
 the other guns, which soon commenced a dropping 
 fire, for I had counted seven more shots and all 
 was still. The beaters were now close up, and I 
 left my stand to join the other guns and see how 
 the battue had ended. I soon found when I 
 came up that some of the shots had taken effect, 
 for there lay the calf riddled with three balls. I 
 was glad of this, for the loss of its mother would 
 now matter nothing. "But there were two," I 
 exclaimed ; upon which one of the foresters, with a 
 grin of exultation in his face, led me away three 
 or four hundred yards into the wood, and there 
 lay the body of the cow. "Who killed this?" 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTEICT. 217 
 
 was my next question. " I did," he said, " with 
 my rifle." She lay on her right side, and he 
 pointed to a bullet-hole in the left shoulder. That 
 was just where I shot, and, as the wound was 
 evidently old, for the blood had crusted round it, 
 I felt certain this was my bullet-mark, and if there 
 was no other the elk was mine. But it would 
 soon be proved upon examination whose bullet 
 had brought her down, for I was the only party 
 who used a conical ball, and, moreover, my bullet 
 was much too large to fit his rifle. When we 
 turned her over we could find only one bullet-hole, 
 although four shots had been fired at her after 
 mine ; and when we skinned her I took my ball 
 out of the body, which had passed through the 
 shoulder and lungs, breaking two ribs, and lodging 
 in the skin on the opposite side. She had thus 
 carried my ball nearly two English miles, and, 
 after escaping all the other shots, had at length 
 fallen from internal haemorrhage. The man who 
 fired the rifle shot owned that it was a long snap- 
 shot, and the elk went on; and had not one of 
 the beaters chanced to stumble over the body 
 which lay in his path, we should have lost her. I 
 think it almost an act of cruelty to shoot at an elk 
 with less than a 2-oz. ball, for they hardly ever 
 appear to drop at the first shot; and to prove 
 how easily they will carry away a small ball, I may 
 
218 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 mention that when we skinned the elk, we took 
 two slugs out of the hind quarters of one of the 
 bulls, and in the flank of the cow was the scar of a 
 bullet which had passed clean through her, perhaps 
 a year before. I am certain, as I always used to 
 be when kangarooing, that a charge of light shot 
 thrown well in behind the ear at a close distance, 
 beats any bullet, if a man is only collected enough 
 to let the animal come close to him. I don't mean 
 to say that loose shot would be of any use to such 
 an animal as an elk except ab very close quarters ; 
 but in close quarters I would depend upon it more 
 than on a bullet. 
 
 We had now made a glorious wind-up four 
 elks in two days; and as we thought we could 
 not mend it, and every one seemed to have had 
 enough, we agreed to knock off, especially as we 
 had to get the elk home next day and dress them. 
 We were now far away in the forest, and it was 
 near midnight before we arrived at home, all 
 pretty well knocked up. I was not sorry for a 
 rest on the next day, and in the evening the four 
 elk were brought home in triumph on sledges. 
 The whole village joined the cavalcade, and as the 
 punch and brandy was handed round pretty freely, 
 our " skall " was brought to a right jovial con- 
 clusion. I must say it was a sight which has not 
 fallen to the lot of many, and one which probably 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 219 
 
 I may never again witness, to see four such 
 splendid animals lying side by side at one time on 
 the grass-plot in front of a house; and considering 
 that I was as it were a novice at this work, I 
 deemed myself lucky in falling in with such a share 
 of the sport. The next day we were fully occupied 
 in skinning and dressing the carcases, and I must 
 say that had the butchers on this occasion practised 
 but a little of the skill and neatness of our English 
 park-keepers, the venison would have looked all 
 the better. But, like the Yankee's singed cat, 
 it ate a great deal better than it looked. At 
 a rough guess, I should say the meat on the four 
 elk would pull down 3000 Ib. No bad stock of 
 beef this for the ensuing winter. The largest was 
 the bull we first shot ; but the cow was very little 
 less, and the calf, which to my astonishment all 
 the foresters declared to have been dropped in 
 July (and the dugs of the cow were full of milk), 
 was exactly 6 ft long and 4 ft. high. Pretty well 
 this for a four months' calf. The skins are worth 
 little or nothing except for leather, which, how- 
 ever, must be everlasting, for a pair of elk-skin 
 breeches is an heir-loom in the families of these 
 foresters, and are handed down from father to son 
 for several generations. Pleasant wearing, I 
 should say, in hot weather, after about a score of 
 years' service ! The hair all came off the skins 
 
220 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 of these elk, and I noticed one peculiarity in the 
 coarse hair of the elk which I never recollect 
 seeing in any other animal, viz., that it is quite 
 brittle, and can be snapped in half like a carrot ; 
 it appears as it were rotten. This is also the case 
 with the hair of the reindeer, at least many of 
 them, and the Lap settlers say it is owing to the 
 quantity of dry moss they eat. Can this be so ? 
 But the reindeer skins make capital rugs for 
 sledges, and I never saw the elk skin used for this 
 purpose. The skin of a large elk is worth about 
 20s. here, and the meat in a town perhaps 6d. per 
 pound. I claimed the head and horns of the bull, and 
 the two forefeet of the cow, as rny share of the booty. 
 I may mention that we found in the forest an 
 immense bull elk lying dead, probably shot last 
 winter, for it was little more than a skeleton. I 
 secured the horns, which were the largest I ever 
 saw. It seems that the horns of the elk are full 
 grown in length at five years old, but that after- 
 wards they yearly increase in breadth and number 
 of tips up to eighteen or twenty. I observed, 
 however, in all the horns which I saw that there 
 is always one more spike on one side than on 
 the other. I shall not weary the reader's patience 
 with entering here into the natural history of the 
 elk farther than to say that from what I could see 
 and learn, they are very domestic for a wild animal, 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 221 
 
 and seem rather to court than shun the society of 
 man if he comes as a friend. Their habits much 
 resemble the kangaroo. They seem always to 
 keep to one spot, have their favourite camping 
 places and feeding grounds, and are very partial 
 to swampy forests. They have their regular runs, 
 and appear to be as easily driven as tame cattle in 
 any direction that may suit the driver. When they 
 have once fixed upon a certain tract, they never 
 leave it unless driven away ; and when once in a 
 forest, the owner may always reckon upon keeping 
 up his breed, provided the wolves (their worst 
 enemies when the snow is deep) do not molest 
 them. 
 
 The stomachs of all the elk that we opened 
 were filled with the shoots of the bilberry (Vacci- 
 nuvm myrtillus), but their principal food I take to 
 be grass and the leaves and tender shoots of 
 several species of green trees, especially the aspen. 
 Thanks to the stringent manner in which they 
 are preserved, these noble animals are yearly 
 spreading over our Wermland forests, and in 
 fact a stray elk is now occasionally seen very far 
 south. The season for killing them is limited to 
 two months September and October; and the 
 penalty for killing one in close-time is heavy, with 
 forfeiture of the animal and the gun. This is 
 about the only clause in the Swedish Game Laws 
 
222 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 which seems to be at all observed. Considering 
 their wild nature, and the immense developments 
 of their organs of hearing and scent, I was much 
 surprised to see how leisurely and unconsciously 
 in every instance they approached the guns ; and 
 on this very account I did not, I must confess, see 
 any very great pleasure in hunting them as we 
 did. No doubt the chase of the elk, single- 
 handed by one man and a dog, which follow on 
 the spor perhaps for days, till the elk is brought 
 to bay, is fraught with much more adventure and 
 vicissitudes, and when pursued on skidder or snow 
 skates, probably possesses much excitement to 
 a keen hand. But there is something tame, 
 butcherly, and cowardly in killing them after our 
 fashion ; and when the animal is driven up to be 
 shot in this cool-blooded manner, I look upon it 
 as slaughter, not sport, and care little whether the 
 object to be killed is an elk, a kangaroo, an ox, or 
 a sheep. 
 
 A curious circumstance happened here early in 
 September. A small steamer was passing over a 
 lake on its way to the Wenern, when the mate who 
 was on the look-out observed at day-break an elk 
 swimming across the lake. The steamer gave 
 chase, soon came up with the elk, a line was cast 
 over its horns, and it was drawn alongside. 
 There unfortunately happened to be a Justice 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTEICT. 223 
 
 Shallow on board, in the shape of a landsman or 
 magistrate, who declared that it was out of season, 
 and in the king's name ordered the captain to 
 cast it loose, which he very reluctantly did. 
 
 One more night in the forest, and my visit was 
 at an end. On this night we camped out by the 
 side of the charr lake, to try our luck at angling 
 for them by torchlight. They bit pretty well in 
 the beginning of the night, but afterwards the 
 weather came on windy and boisterous, and we 
 had little sport. Up to this the weather had been 
 beautiful, but this night was winterly and cold. 
 We had a rare camp-fire built on the Dalecarlian 
 system a large blasted pine cut down into lengths 
 of about twelve foot each, and the sides hacked 
 into splinters with an axe, that they may more 
 readily catch the blaze. These are laid one above 
 the other (kept in their places by slanting posts), 
 and a space of about four inches left between 
 each. Lighted chips are inserted into this space, 
 and the logs catch fire. The advantage of this is 
 that we had a regular heat the whole night, and 
 no trouble to replenish our fire. The season, 
 however, for camping out in these forests was, to 
 my fancy, about at an end ; and as I had seen a 
 flock of waxwings a few days previous, I knew that 
 the first snow-storm was not far distant. We 
 spent the next day in fishing and ^hooting hazel- 
 
224 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 grouse, and in the evening I bade adieu to the 
 forest. 
 
 On the next morning I left my friend's house, 
 after a happy and interesting visit, carrying away 
 a small elk- steak, as he called a large junk of 
 about 701b., just to show them at home that I had 
 been in at the death ; and as I jogged home on 
 one of those infernal bone-setting machines which 
 the peasants here call carts, I could not help 
 thinking to myself that there are few countries in 
 Europe where a man can enjoy so much sport for 
 so little money as in old Sweden, and few kinder- 
 hearted or more hospitable fellows under the sun 
 than a true Swedish country gentleman. 
 
 The bear (Ursus arctos, Lin.) is very common 
 around Quickiock; but I have already alluded 
 to him. 
 
 The glutton (Oulo borealis, Lin.; " jerf," Sw.) 
 appeared to be common on the fells. I never saw 
 one wild ; but the Laps, one morning, brought an 
 old female and a young one which they had shot 
 on the fells. The skeleton of the glutton seems 
 to be much sought after here. I bought three 
 very perfect skeletons, and gave a high price for 
 them. The glutton does not seem, however, to be 
 confined to the very north of the country, for 
 wherever the wild reindeer is met with (and these 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 225 
 
 appear to come further south on the Norwegian 
 fells than the tame reindeer) the glutton is also 
 found. No northern beast of prey, for its size, 
 can compare to the glutton in voracity, and 
 nothing appears to come amiss in the way of food 
 reindeer, goats, hares, lemming, ptarmigan, and 
 offal, and even fish and reptiles ; and perhaps no 
 wild animal is more dreaded by the Laps, for it 
 can climb like a cat, and will even steal the pro- 
 visions which the Laps leave in the autumn on 
 the fells, in a box set on a high pole, for the 
 next spring. 4 The glutton is a handsome animal, 
 and sometimes you see a perfectly black skin, 
 which is very dear. The spor of the glutton in the 
 snow is nearly as large as that of a bear. Of course, 
 like all other northern skins, the winter skin of 
 the glutton is more handsome than that of summer. 
 The wolf (Canis lupus, Lin. ; " varg.," Sw.). 
 I had always fancied that these northern forests 
 and fells were overrun with wolves, and that it 
 would hardly be safe to wander alone in this wild 
 country ; but, strange to say, they do not appear 
 to be more numerous here than in Wermland or 
 Dalecarlia. I am at a loss to account for the 
 scarcity of so shy and prolific an animal in a 
 country so well suited to its habits, and one 
 affording so good a supply of food. It is true 
 that "war to the knife" is the Lap's motto, as 
 
 Q 
 
226 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 regards tins bloodthirsty, cowardly animal; and 
 truly may we say that every man's hand is against 
 them here. As soon as the track of a wolf is seen 
 in the snow, the Laps hunt him down on skiddor, 
 and never leave the spor till the wolf is killed. 
 Those who first start on the trail follow it up till 
 they are tired, when others take up the running, 
 and so on, till the beast is fairly brought to bay. By 
 this means many are killed every winter ; but still, 
 considering all things, they are certainly very rare 
 in the vicinity of Quickiock, and they never seem 
 to hunt in flocks. They appear to follow the 
 herd of reindeer singly, or in pairs ; and as soon 
 as ever the reindeer came up to the fells in the 
 spring, two large old wolves appeared in our 
 forests. We saw them twice, but we never were 
 within shot. One day in the end of April, my lad, 
 who was out by the side of a frozen lake, saw a 
 wolf coming right up to him over the ice. He hid 
 himself behind a bush, and made sure of a shot. 
 The wolf, however, probably smelt him, and crossed 
 above him, just out of shot. Immediately after- 
 wards, a solitary young reindeer came trotting up 
 to the lad, doubtless for protection, and followed 
 him right down to Quickiock. Probably it was 
 that reindeer that the wolf was after. We never 
 heard the howl but once, and that was one night, 
 when camped out on the fells. Of all dismal 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 227 
 
 howls I think this is the worst, and one's very 
 marrow seems to freeze on hearing it. 
 
 The common fox (Canis vulpes, Lin. ; " skogs 
 raf," Sw.) was not nearly so common around here 
 as the Arctic fox (Canis lag opus, Lin. ; " fell riif," 
 Sw.) ; and I never heard of one being killed while 
 I was up. But the Arctic fox was very common 
 on these fells, and we got two old ones and four 
 cubs. The male was what they call the blue fox, 
 and considered rare. It was not, however, blue, 
 but a dingy black-brown ; the female was whity- 
 brown. The male weighed about 91b., or little 
 more than a good hare. The habits of these fell 
 foxes are curious. They appear to live in holes 
 under boulders of rock, and as soon as a man 
 approaches they just poke their heads out and bark; 
 but such a bark -just like the cough of a wheezy, 
 asthmatic old man. If you go near the hole they 
 withdraw; but as soon as you turn away they 
 come out again directly to have a look ; and this 
 curiosity often costs them their life. 
 
 The fell hare (Lepus borealis, Nilss.). I never 
 saw more hares in any part of Sweden than here. 
 We used to find them in the small bushes on the 
 fell sides as well as on the fells themselves, and 
 any day we could have killed two or three, if they 
 had been worth the trouble of carrying home. 
 They did not appear to assume the grey summer 
 
228 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 dress till nearly the end of May. I observed here 
 that the black tip on the point of the ear was 
 much less conspicuous than in our Wermland hare, 
 which is considered by Nilsson as the same species ; 
 and I think so too, for the two craniums agree 
 perfectly. Now, this black ear-tip is one of his 
 great specific marks of distinction between the 
 Lepus borealis and the Lepus canescens, or southern 
 Swedish hare ; but if there is no other specific 
 difference in the osteology, I am almost inclined 
 to think that they are the same species, for the 
 tips of the ears are much blacker in our Wermland 
 hares than in those which we killed on the Quick- 
 iock fells; and it seems to me that, as we go 
 further north, so does this black tip diminish. 
 
 The otter (Lutra vulgaris, Erxl.; " utter," Sw.) 
 was by no means rare here. The only specimen 
 that I shot, however, I lost, for the body was 
 carried over a high waterfall, and I could not 
 reach it. 
 
 The stone marten (Maries foina, Briss. ; " Sten 
 mard," Sw.). This is the only species that I was 
 able to identify in this district, and it was by no 
 means common. They may probably, also, have 
 the common pine marten (Maries sylvestris, Ges. 
 " Skogs mard.), but I never saw it. I have heard 
 it doubted whether these two martens are distinct 
 species, or only young and old of the same animal. 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 229 
 
 I cannot for one moment doubt that they are two 
 very distinct species, their habits are so different ; 
 and even allowing that the white spot on the 
 throat may become yellow by age, or vice versa, 
 in the stone marten the soles of the feet are bare, 
 while in the pine marten they are always covered 
 with hair, and this at all ages. 
 
 I never saw the weasel (Mustela vulgaris, Erxl.) 
 here, although it is occasionally, but very rarely, 
 killed, for I purchased a skin of a weasel killed at 
 Quickiock in the previous winter, and although I 
 know some doubt exists whether the weasel turns 
 white in winter as well as the stoat, I can only say 
 that this skin was pure white. 
 
 The stoat (Mustela Erminea, Lin.; "hermelin," 
 Sw.) was very common around Quickiock, and in 
 the summer seemed to be confined to the high 
 stony fells. Respecting its change of colour from 
 brown to white in the winter, I have never had 
 opportunities of sufficiently studying them at the 
 season ; but I had plenty of specimens through my 
 hands during the spring, both before and after the 
 change from the winter to the summer dress ; and 
 from attentive observation, I think Professor Bell 
 is clearly right, and that this change takes place, 
 as he says, " by an actual change in the colour of 
 the existing fur." Be this as it may, however, 
 the change is very rapid and suddenly effected, 
 
230 .A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 for on May 8th we killed them in pure winter dress, 
 and by the 17th they were in full summer dress, 
 and after that we never obtained a white 
 specimen. 
 
 The squirrel (Sciurus vulgaris, Lin. ; " ekorre," 
 Sw.). In certain seasons squirrels abound in the 
 Lapland forests, on others very few are to be seen. 
 They are much sought after, by both settlers and 
 Laps, for the skins, which are sold for lining 
 ladies' cloaks and a pretty and expensive liningthey 
 make. They are shot in autumn and spring, not 
 in the depth of winter, at which season it appears 
 they hybernate, like the dormouse. At this 
 season they are silvery grey. The skins are sold 
 by the forty, the price of forty being this spring 
 about 8s. 6d. I remarked that the summer dress 
 of the squirrel is much darker and browner in 
 Lapland than I have ever seen it elsewhere. 
 
 The lemming (Lemmus Norwegicus, "Worn.; 
 "ijalllemmel," Sw.). "We now come to an animal 
 peculiar to these northern tracts, and one whose 
 migrations have given rise to so much conjecture 
 and so many exaggerated statements, that I was 
 most anxious to see how much truth there was in 
 the accounts which I had heard of the countless 
 thousands of these little mice marching straight 
 over the country in a compact body, swimming 
 rivers, never turning from their course, and devas- 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 231 
 
 tating the whole land as they passed over it. As 
 luck would have it, I had a good opportunity of 
 judging for myself, for in the spring of 186-2 we 
 had a large migration right through Quickiock, 
 and for about a month the whole country swan i KM! 
 with them. Such a migration had not been seen 
 for many years. It is true that for the last two 
 seasons a good many had appeared on the Quick- 
 lock fells, and they say that these migrations always 
 last more or less for three years. Few are ignorant 
 of the natural history of this strange little mouse, 
 yet perhaps few have had the opportunity of seeing 
 one in a state of nature, and I shall therefore give 
 a short description of the animal itself, and proceed 
 to make some remarks on its habits, and on that 
 most singular of all phenomena in natural history, 
 its irregular migrations. The lemming is a little 
 animal not unlike the water vole in shape, but 
 much smaller, and with a very short tail, being 
 scarcely in all more than six inches long; the 
 colour above is rusty yellow, with a black streak 
 down the middle and each side of the back, nmch 
 fainter in some than others; belly and under sides, 
 and throat, pale yellow. The fur is beautifully soft 
 and thick, and although the skin is very thin, 
 might doubtless be put to some use by the furriers. 
 The skins are beautifully red when taken off just 
 in the early spring, but fade very much in the 
 
232 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 summer. It is considered by our naturalists that, 
 besides this fell lemming, there is another species 
 here, the Lemmus scMsticolor (Leljeborg), " skogs 
 lemmel," or wood lemming. This is smaller than 
 the last, the colour is more grey, and the spot on 
 the back rusty yellow instead of black. This 
 smaller species was discovered by Prof. Lelljeborg, 
 in the forest near Gullrandsdalen, in Norway, but I 
 cannot say that I ever identified it up at Quickiock; 
 but really, the lemmings which we killed, varied so 
 much in size and colour, that without a careful ex- 
 amination a new species might be easily overlooked. 
 The teeth of the lemming resemble those of the 
 beaver and dormouse, and they are therefore her- 
 bivorous, living on leaves, grass, small branches, 
 moss, roots, etc. In the winter they do not lie up 
 in a trance, but dig runs under the snow, and, 
 unlike the little dormouse, lay up no store of 
 winter food. Respecting their uncertain migra- 
 tions from one tract to another, of which I had 
 read so many marvellous accounts, I will proceed 
 to describe exactly what I saw, and I think the 
 reader will agree with me that there is nothing 
 more wonderful in these irregular migrations than 
 in the more certain migrations of the waxwing, 
 mealy redpole, brambling, and others of our birds 
 of passage. About the end of April, just as the 
 snow was beginning to melt, I was walking by the 
 

 ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 233 
 
 river side, and saw scores of dead lemming, 
 which had evidently perished in the winter's snow. 
 On May 3rd I got three specimens killed to the 
 south of Quickiock, and after this they began to 
 appear in such numbers that by May 15th I had 
 obtained nearly five hundred skins. These all seemed 
 to come up from the south, and to be heading to the 
 fells. The whole country now swarmed with them. 
 It was my impression that they had been frozen up 
 in the neighbourhood all the winter ; that many 
 had perished under the snow, and those which we 
 saw were the survivors making their way back to 
 their native home on the northern fells. This im- 
 pression was confirmed by seeing, when the snow 
 went, their runs in every direction in the forests 
 and meadows round Quickiock ; and large heaps 
 of dung marked their resting-places. They re- 
 mained in the open for about three weeks, living 
 under tussocks of grass, old logs, heaps of rubbish, 
 cracks in the river bank in fact, wherever shelter 
 was to be obtained. But by the end of May they 
 had all retired into the forests, and about two 
 weeks after this the lower fells swarmed with them. 
 They did not, however, all leave the forests, for 
 during the whole summer the woods were full of 
 them, and they bred there; for about the first 
 week in July some of the young were more than 
 half-grown, while some females were heavy with 
 
234 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 young, and I often observed them running about 
 the forests with their mouths full of grass to build 
 their nests with. It is curious that about the 
 middle of May there appeared to be another 
 smaller migration of them down from the fells 
 southward. Although the lower fells were covered 
 with them in the summer, I do not recollect seeing 
 one upon the very highest snow fells. As to the 
 wonderful stories of their marching in a body like 
 soldiers, surmounting all obstacles, swimming 
 rivers, and devastating the whole country as they 
 passed over it, I can only say I never saw them in 
 a body ; all that I saw were scattered here and 
 there over the whole face of the country. If ever 
 by chance I saw one travelling in the day, it was 
 running singly to hide itself, and we rarely saw 
 one on the move unless we had first disturbed it 
 from its lair. I never saw them either enter a 
 house or outhouse, or attempt to climb a wall. 
 They had no occasion to swim much, as there was 
 plenty of ice on the rivers and lakes (but they can 
 swim strongly and well) ; and as for devastating 
 the country as they passed over it, the bare open 
 patches which were clear of snow when the lem- 
 ming first came up were already as barren as the 
 deserts of Arabia ; and as soon as the spring came 
 on there was keep enough in the forests and on 
 the fells for millions of little creatures like these. 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 235 
 
 Their habits on the march were just what one 
 might suppose the habits of any small animal 
 would be who knows it is passing through an 
 enemy's territory. There was no order or regu- 
 larity. They seemed to travel much by night, and 
 by day you might observe them on the move, 
 running from one heap of grass to the other, evi- 
 dently in a great bustle and trepidation. All 
 seemed heading to the fells, and each one tried to 
 reach this point as well as it was able, but none 
 seemed in a hurry to get there. During their 
 journey, every animal larger than themselves 
 claimed a perfect right to persecute them, as 
 though, instead of being one of the prettiest and 
 most harmless little animals we have in the north, 
 the lemming were to be regarded as a venomous 
 snake; and how so many escaped I think most 
 wonderful. Boys, dogs, birds of prey of every 
 description, ruthlessly pursued them, and as many 
 were killed for sheer wantonness as for the sake of 
 food, for I observed that very few dogs ate them ; 
 and although I saw our old cat (and we only had 
 one cat in the village) kill them whenever he 
 had a chance, I never saw him eat one. It is a 
 curious, but I believe a well- substantiated fact, 
 although I never witnessed it, that the reindeer 
 greedily devour them. I certainly never yet saw 
 an animal which combines stupidity with bravery 
 
236 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 so much as the lemming; they really seem to 
 court destruction ; for when you pass by one hidden 
 under a tree, stone, or tuft of grass, instead of 
 lying still and unnoticed, the little lemming im- 
 mediately sends forth a challenge by uttering a 
 shrill squeaking bark, and, facing its enemy, gives 
 battle even unto death. If the bear had only half the 
 savage pluck of these little creatures there would 
 be no living in the north ; and this is not a habit 
 acquired by age, for the young ones do just the 
 same ; and if you only point a stick at one, it will 
 seize the end of it with its teeth, and is with diffi- 
 culty shaken off. But in the summer, when the 
 ground is clearer and places of concealment are 
 more easily reached than in the winter, they appear 
 to become much more timid, and it is not nearly 
 so easy to kill them. I think I never saw an 
 animal that is so easily killed ; the least blow 
 from the smallest switch will kill them in an 
 instant. Much conjecture has been hazarded as to 
 where all these lemmings have their native home ; 
 and some suppose that one certain high fell range 
 in the north is the matrix of the swarms that oc- 
 casionally come down. But I cannot see why one 
 particular fell tract more than another is to be 
 assigned as their peculiar home, when we see that 
 there are hundreds of miles of wild unexplored 
 fell tract, from the south of Lapland to the North 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 237 
 
 Cape, all well suited to their habits. Hundreds of 
 thousands of lemmings might be scattered over 
 its surface, and yet need not live in colonies ; but 
 the cause of these irregular migrations is and pro- 
 bably always will be, a secret known only to an 
 All- wise Creator, who, we may rest assured, has 
 ordained nothing in vain. In my opinion, much 
 exaggeration and useless mystery have been used 
 by those writers who have described these migra- 
 tions (to say nothing of the palpable lies gravely 
 uttered by the older writers) ; and I can see little 
 more wonderful in them (save that their numbers 
 are much greater) than the uncertain migrations, 
 without any apparent cause, of the squirrels in 
 this very country, the opossums in Australia, and 
 of many other animals. They sometimes in these 
 migrations travel very far south, for in 1819 they 
 appeared in the neighbourhood of Carlstad, in 
 Wermland, where none had been seen for a 
 hundred years. 
 
 I should much like to know whether the lem- 
 ming has ever been kept alive in confinement. 
 They have an idea here that this would be impos- 
 sible, and that if two were put into the same cage, 
 they would inevitably fight till one or both were 
 killed. 
 
 I never met with either the common brown 
 rat (Mus decumanus, Pall.) or the black rat (Mus 
 
238 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 rattus, Lin.) in Lapland, although the former is 
 found in all the coast towns, even up within the 
 polar circle, and from thence is gradually spread- 
 ing inland. The black rat appears now to be 
 nearly rooted out of Sweden by the brown rat. 
 In Stockholm, where thirty years since they were 
 said to be plentiful, they are now never met with ; 
 and in Carlstad, and other places along the banks 
 of the Wenern, where the black rat was formerly 
 the only species, the brown rat has now quite 
 usurped its place. 
 
 I never saw the common house mouse (Mus 
 musculus, Lin.) in Lapland, and it seems to be a 
 stranger to the Lapland fauna. 
 
 The shrew mouse (" alman nabbmus," Sw.) was 
 certainly rare, although both the common shrew 
 (8 or ex vulgaris, Lin. ; " muluard," Sw.) and the 
 water shrew (Sorex fodiens, Pall.) go far up into 
 Lapland. I killed one specimen of the common 
 shrew. 
 
 The mole (Talpa Europea, Lin.) does not come 
 so far north. Its northerly range in Sweden is 
 not, however, yet clearly defined ; but in Norway, 
 according to Mlsson, it is never seen north of 
 Dovre fell. 
 
 One very fine fresh-killed specimen of the black 
 water vole (Arvicola amphibia, Dem. ; " storre 
 iord rahe," Sw.), the largest I ever saw, was 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTRICT. 239 
 
 brought to me at lockmock, but it seemed to be 
 very rare, for no one knew what animal it was ; 
 and this was the only one I saw in Lapland. 
 
 We used to kill both the bank vole (Arvicola 
 riparia, Yarr.) and the field vole or short- tailed 
 field mouse (A. agrestris, Flem.) ; and besides 
 these we had another species of field vole (the 
 Lemmus medius, Nilss.), which is peculiar to the 
 north, and met with in all the valleys and meadows 
 at the foot of the fells, from Gudbrandsdalen, in 
 Norway, up to the North Cape. I cannot see this 
 species noticed in Clermont's "Mammalia," and 
 fancy that it has been confounded with the Arvicola 
 terrestris, De Selys, wliich it appears much to re- 
 semble. It is about 5 inches long, tail 2 inches 
 (7 inches in all) ; but specimens which I killed 
 varied very much in size and colour. The colour 
 is usually dark bright brown above, under parts 
 pale grey. It rather resembles the water vole in 
 form, but the far is more silky ; and Nilsson argues 
 that, from the absence of the stiff bushy hairs 
 which are strewed over the body of the water vole, 
 its habits are far more terrestrial. Of this I can 
 say nothing. I never saw one in the water, but 
 we used to get them in all the wet meadows, and 
 often in cow-houses and outhouses. 
 
 There are also two other smaller species of 
 field vole in Lapland (the Lemmus rufucanus. 
 
240 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN. LAPLAND. 
 
 Sund., and the L. rutilus, Pall.) I was only able 
 to identify the former at Quickiock, and there it was 
 considered very rare. It is met with, however, 
 both in Lulea and Tornea Lapmark, principally in 
 the birch regions, but I have killed them pretty 
 high up on the fells. This pretty little species is 
 about 3^ inches long, the tail about 1 inch. The 
 colour is red-brown along the back and crown of 
 the head, sides and under parts ash grey, with a 
 very plain division of colour. It can be easily con- 
 founded with the Lemmus redilus, but the colour 
 is rather different, the tail is much shorter, the 
 head appears much larger, the ears are shorter. 
 All these differences are very apparent when two 
 specimens of the different kinds are laid together. 
 But it is very difficult to say decidedly what the 
 species is before a careful examination ; and as I had 
 no work on the Swedish mammalia with me, my 
 plan was to preserve all the specimens I could fall 
 in with, and lay them aside for careful examination 
 when I arrived home. This I have now done, and 
 I am very much deceived if we shall not find even 
 another species as yet undescribed ; but the size 
 as well as the shades of colouring vary so much in 
 this class, that it is very difficult to decide which 
 is a variety, which a new species ; and nothing 
 but great practice and research can effect this ob- 
 ject. I am sorry to say that I paid far too little 
 
ON THE MAMMALIA OF THIS DISTEICT. 241 
 
 attention this year in Lapland, both to these small 
 field-mice and to insects. I hope, however, at a 
 future day to have another opportunity. 
 
 I never saw a bat at Quickiock, but at lockmock 
 I hear that the Vesp. borealis, Nilss., is occasionally, 
 but rarely, killed. 
 
 The lynx (Fells L>/n>', Lin. ; "lo," Sw.) does 
 not appear to be met with in any part of Lapland, 
 at least certainly not in the Quickiock district ; and 
 it is much to be regretted that the beaver (Castor 
 fiber, Lin.; "bafiier," Sw.) should have been quite 
 rooted out of this land. What an interest would 
 be added to a forest ramble in Lapland if we could 
 occasionally come upon a colony of the industrious 
 and interesting animals. 
 
 I never heard of either the badger or polecat 
 up here. Strange that the wild cat is an entire 
 stranger to the Scandinavian fauna. I should 
 have fancied even the gloom of " the Trossachs " 
 would be nothing compared to many a wild spot 
 on these secluded fells. Perhaps it could not stand 
 the winter. And although, as I before said, we 
 had one old domestic cat in Quickiock, you never 
 by any chance see one in a Laplander's tent. This 
 kind of wandering life is hardly comfortable 
 enough for pussy. 
 
 That all domestic animals will thrive as far 
 north as this, is proved by the fact of the horses, 
 
242 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 when not overworked, being quite on a par with 
 those in the middle of Sweden. The cows are 
 also as good, and the sheep, could they only have 
 been well fed in winter, would have been very 
 tolerable. No doubt pigs would live in Lapland if 
 they only had enough to eat, but the expense of 
 carriage of corn up here renders it too valuable to 
 be given to the pig. 
 
 Although, perhaps, rather out of place, I may 
 add that the carriage of a quarter of rye up from 
 Lulea to Quickiock, even by sledging in winter, 
 which is the only time it can be brought up, is 
 about 3 10s., so that the price of rye in Quick- 
 iock, in 1861, which was a dear year in the north, 
 might be quoted at about 7 the quarter. No 
 wonder, therefore, that bread is scarce up here ; I 
 do not believe the Laps often see it on the fells. 
 But then their substitute is reindeer cheese with 
 their coffee, and a very lasting and excellent food 
 to work upon is this same reindeer cheese. Like 
 the Australian damper, a little bit goes a long way, 
 and, I suppose on account of its indigestible 
 qualities, sticks by a man a long time. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 ON THE OBNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 
 
 THE birds of Lapland now come under considera- 
 tion ; and I will proceed to give a short account 
 of all we met with in the Quickiock district. I 
 shall make a few remarks on their breeding habits, 
 and describe as well as I am able the nest and 
 eggs of some of the rarest, believing that will be 
 as interesting to the collector at home as to any 
 naturalist who 'may at a future day visit this re- 
 mote district. Many of my observations will be 
 found to differ a good deal from the accounts which 
 we read of the breeding habits, number of eggs, 
 etc., of some of the birds. I will, therefore, only 
 remark, that everything which I state as a fact came 
 under my own observation; and, without saying 
 that another man is wrong, I can safely say that 
 I am right as far as my own observations went. 
 
 Golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos, Cuv. ; " kungs 
 orn," Sw.). The white-tailed eagle (Haliaetus 
 albicilla, Sav. ; " hafs orn," Sw.). Both the golden 
 and white-tailed eagles bred in the neighbourhood. 
 The Laps call both the eagles " goastern," but we 
 
244 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 never obtained the nest of either. The golden 
 eagle appeared to remain here throughout the 
 winter, but not the white-tailed. "We rarely went 
 out on the fells without seeing aji enormous 
 golden eagle, whose eyrie was clearly in the neigh- 
 bourhood, soaring high above our heads, but we 
 never could find the nest. On our road up, a 
 little old Lap brought me a fine specimen of an 
 eagle, nearly as large as himself, which he had 
 picked up dead in the forest. It struck me as 
 very different to any golden eagle I had before 
 seen. It was very much spotted and dashed on 
 the thigh, and wing covered with light yellow. I 
 fancy, however, that it was nothing more than a 
 young golden eagle, for the upper half of the tail 
 was white. 
 
 I may add as a hint to the young naturalist, 
 that he may at a glance determine the difference 
 between the golden and the white-tailed eagle by 
 the leg, which in the golden eagle is feathered 
 down to the toes ; in the white -tailed, bare. 
 
 The Norwegian jer-falcon (Falco jer-falco Nor- 
 wegicus, Wooley ; "rip spenning," Lap.; "jagt 
 falk," Sw.). Of this dark jer-falcon I only suc- 
 ceeded in obtaining one nest with three eggs, 
 which was taken by a Lap on June 8th, from a 
 high cliff on the shore of Lake Wihrigaur, on the 
 Norwegian frontier, about fifty miles west of 
 
OX THE OEXITEOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 245 
 
 Quickiock. The neighbourhood of this lake must 
 possess many attractions for the naturalist. I 
 obtained the nest of the snowy owl not far from 
 here. Buffon's skua, and other rare fell birds, 
 and some of the rarest fell butterflies and plants, 
 are brought from this district. It can be easily 
 reached from Quickiock in three days. 
 
 The Lap name of this falcon is " rip spenning." 
 Spenning is the name for every bird of prey, 
 lunvks, owls, etc., and the word ripa is added on 
 account of the havoc which this jer-falcon commits 
 among the ptarmigan. 
 
 I will now say a few words respecting this 
 northern jer-falcon. And, first, I will refer the 
 reader to Dr. Bree's " Birds of Europe not ob- 
 served in the British Isles," in which he will find 
 a life-like picture of this bird, be it the same as 
 the Iceland falcon, or a distinct species. I have 
 not had the luck to examine many specimens of 
 this falcon, but all I have seen have been as dark 
 in plumage as Dr. Bree's figure. They all ap- 
 peared to be smaller than the Iceland falcon ; the 
 colour different from the young Iceland falcons 
 which I have seen, and more resembling the pere- 
 grine falcon ; and although I am hardly competent 
 to give an opinion, in my mind it is clearly a dis- 
 tinct species, entirely confined to the Scandinavian 
 fell (but not only to Lapland, for it is met with as 
 
246 A SPKING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 far south as the Dovre fells, in Norway, where it is 
 known by the name of the "bla falk," or blue falcon). 
 The egg coloured by Dr. Bree is from a specimen 
 in the British Museum, and more resembles a 
 light variety of the egg of the Falco Islandicus 
 than the eggs of this dark jer-falcon which I 
 obtained. The three eggs which were brought to 
 me with part of the old female were of a uniform 
 dull brick- dust red colour all over, not speckled or 
 patched, and of a more elongated form. This bird 
 is well known to the Laps, who well distinguish 
 it from the peregrine, the only other large falcon 
 that breeds on these fells ; and it appears to be 
 not rare ; in fact, from what I could gather, more 
 common in this district than even the peregrine. 
 So much confusion has existed, and so many 
 different opinions have been given respecting the 
 identity of this falcon, that any observations which 
 may tend to throw a light on the matter must be 
 acceptable to the naturalist, and I shall, therefore, 
 make no apology for troubling my readers with a 
 few remarks on this subject. Whether or not 
 there be three distinct species of the jer-falcon, as 
 some naturalists contend, one thing appears to 
 be clear, that this dark falcon never became per- 
 fectly white, as in the Greenland and Iceland 
 forms. And here let me correct a mistake which 
 seems to have gained ground in England, "that 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 247 
 
 in Scandinavia the forms found in Greenland and 
 Iceland never seem to occur." 
 
 Far from this being the case, I never yet heard 
 of this dark variety (unless, indeed, we follow 
 Nilsson, and consider this dark form as nothing 
 more than the Iceland and Greenland bird in a 
 
 k state of plumage) being killed off the fells ; 
 
 d certainly all the jer-falcons which are killed in 
 the south and middle of Sweden (and I have seen 
 them very white) appear to belong to the Green- 
 land and Iceland forms. Nay, more than this, I 
 bought at Quickiock a skin of a very fine white 
 old Iceland falcon, which was killed up there in 
 1861. The man who shot it considered it a great 
 rarity, as he had never seen one so white before, 
 and, in his opinion, it was very distinct from the 
 common "rip spenning," and so it clearly was; 
 but I do believe that the only bird which breeds on 
 these fells is the dark Falco jer-falco Norwegicus. 
 I very much doubt, however, whether we are cor- 
 rect in applying the Linnasan synonym of Falco 
 lanarius to this bird, and in this opinion I am 
 borne out by Nilsson ; for, in the last edition of 
 his " Birds of Scandinavia" (1858), he describes 
 the Falco lanarius, Lin., as quite a different bird, 
 under the Swedish name of " slag falk." And 
 although Linna3us, in his " Systema Naturas" (at 
 least, in my translation by Turton, of 1800), in 
 
248 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 describing the F. lanarius, does not say anything 
 regarding the colour of the head, Nils son, in 
 describing the " slag falk" (F. lanarius, Lin.), 
 distinctly says, "head white, tinged with rusty 
 yellow;" and except that he gives the length of 
 the old female twenty inches, his general descrip- 
 tion agrees with Dr. Bree's description of the 
 lanner falcon (Falco lanarius, Schleg.) of his 
 admirable work, p. 37. Linngeus' description of 
 the lanner was from a younger bird, killed in 
 Sweden. In Nilsson' s description of the Falco 
 jer-falco (Lin. and Nils.), he does not use Lin- 
 nasus' synonym of Falco lanarius, but he gives to 
 it the synonym of Falco riisticolus, Lin. Faun, 
 p. 19 (older female) ; and also Falco jer-falco, 
 Lin. Faun. p. 22 (young bird). 
 
 Neither Nilsson nor Sundeval will allow that 
 there is more than one species of jer-falcon in 
 Sweden, in describing which Nilsson uses all these 
 synonyms : " Falco gyr-falco Islandicus, candi- 
 cans ; Groenlandicus rusticolus, fuscus, umbrinus ;" 
 and he gives it the Swedish names of jakt-falk, 
 hort-falk, bla-falk (the name by which this dark 
 Falco gyr-falco Norwegicus is known on the Nor- 
 wegian fells) ; and he also gives to the same bird 
 the Lapland name of riefsakfalle thus clearly 
 identifying it with our Lap "rip spenning," which 
 word has precisely the same meaning as the rief- 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OP LAPLAND. 249 
 
 sakfalle, only used in another district. He then 
 gives us descriptions and measurements taken by 
 himself from fourteen different specimens, varying 
 in length from 21 in. to 25 in., and presenting every 
 shade of plumage, from the dark young to the old 
 white mature bird. It would have been interest- 
 ing if I could have inserted a full translation of 
 his descriptions, but I cannot find space. Nils- 
 son's experience in Swedish ornithology is very 
 great, and has extended over many years, and his 
 opinion, with me at least, always carries weight. 
 I may remark that he divides his specimens into 
 two series the first with oblong, the latter with 
 transverse spots. 
 
 He winds up his remarks with the following 
 pertinent note, which I translate freely and fully : 
 " To this latter series probably belongs Schle- 
 gel's Falco candicans Islandicus, as he has 
 described it in his c Revue Critique,' p. 4. It is 
 also undeniable that Linne's Falco rusticolus and 
 gyr-falco belong to this group ; but by referring 
 to the above measurements it does not appear 
 that the gyr-falco is so much smaller than Candi- 
 cans Islandicus. Herr Schlegel, c Revue,' p. 57, 
 expresses his surprise that the true Norwegian 
 gyr-falco ( c den ratta Norska gyr-falco'), which he 
 (Schlegel), nevertheless, supposes to be identical 
 with Linne's Falco lanarius, Faun. Suec., should 
 
250 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 have been altogether unknown to the Scandinavian 
 naturalists until he (Schlegel) described it. And 
 Degland, in his ' European Ornithology/ reiterates 
 the same. Yes, it would indeed have been very 
 surprising had such been the case ; but not only 
 has this Falco gyr-falco been known to us even 
 from Linne's time, but we also know the tran- 
 sitions from this to the Falco candicans Islandicus, 
 Auct. ; therefore we do not consider ourselves justi- 
 fied in dividing them into two or more species." 
 
 So much for Mlsson. He clearly considers 
 this Falco ger-falco Norwegicus (Wooley), ^the 
 Falco Groenlandicus (Hanc.), and Falco Islandicus 
 (Hanc.), as all varieties of one bird Falco Gyr- 
 falco (Lin.), and not three distinct species ; and, 
 presumptuous as it may appear for me to differ 
 from a naturalist of such standing, I cannot help 
 it. "Without going into the question as to whether 
 Falco Islandicus (Hanc.) and Falco Groenlandicus 
 (Hanc.) are anything more than local varieties of 
 the same bird, I consider the dark Norwegian jer- 
 falcon a clearly distinct species from either ; and 
 although, perhaps, the young of this may be easily 
 confounded with the young of the Falco Islandicus 
 (Hanc.), there is too marked a difference in my 
 eye between the old birds to admit of their being 
 considered as nothing more than the same bird in 
 a different stage of plumage. But, as I said before, 
 
. 
 
 ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 251 
 
 my experience is small, and my opinion carries but 
 little weight. 
 
 Kjgerholling, the Danish naturalist of whom I 
 have also a great opinion distinctly says that this 
 Norwegian jer-falcon, which he calls Fal. gyr-falco 
 (Schlegel) " den Norske jagt falk" (F. lanarius, 
 L.), is distinct from both the Iceland and Green- 
 land forms (which, I fancy, he is inclined to 
 consider as two distinct species). In his descrip- 
 tion, he says of this Norwegian bird : " It never 
 becomes white. From the young Iceland and 
 Greenland falcon it differs in its smaller size, in 
 the same sex, by the dark spot on the cheek (as in 
 the peregrine), by its yellow-green legs, which 
 appear to be peculiar to this bird at all ages ; and 
 further, in that the spots on the under part of thy 
 body and sides have the form of 'transverse bands.'" 
 
 The peregrine falcon (F. peregrinus, L. ; "pele- 
 grim falk," Sw.) was far from common on these 
 fells. I rarely saw a specimen, and never obtained 
 a nest, although they certainly breed here. This 
 is a difficult egg to obtain, well authenticated. 
 
 I never met with the hobby (F. subluteo, L.) 
 up here, nor do I believe it comes up so far north, 
 although Lowenhjelm includes it in his list of birds 
 that breed in Lulea-Lapland. 
 
 The merlin (F. lithofalco, Gm. ; " dverg falk," 
 Sw., " tsitsasch falle," Lap.) was the common hawk 
 
252 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 in this district, and must have been one of the 
 early spring migrants, for I shot a female on 
 April 19. It was impossible to walk on the fells 
 without meeting this bold and pretty little hawk, 
 which I have even seen chasing the ptarmigan. I 
 never found the nest of the merlin here anywhere 
 but on the ground, either on a bare cliff or in the 
 heather, always on tolerably high fells. The first 
 nest which I took was on June 9. When first 
 laid, the eggs of the merlin have a beautiful violet- 
 red tinge, with red-brown spots ; this, however, 
 soon fades, and they assume a red-brown ground 
 colour, with dirty brown spots. It is said by the 
 Laps sometimes to build in a tree. The number 
 of eggs appear to vary from four to six ; and so 
 much do they resemble those of the kestrel, 
 although, perhaps, in general a very little smaller, 
 that when I have mixed a lot I should never have 
 been able to separate them if each egg had not 
 been numbered. I have often been struck with 
 the great difference in size that there is between 
 many of the old female merlins that we kill. 
 
 The kestrel (F. tinnunculus, Lin. ; " torn falk," 
 Sw.), and the sparrow-hawk (Accipiter nisus, Mis.; 
 "sparl hok," Sw.), were both common here, as 
 well as the goshawk (Astur palumbarius, Bechst. ; 
 " techuon falle," Lap ; " duff hok," Sw.), but I was 
 never lucky enough to obtain the nest of this latter 
 
OX THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 253 
 
 bird here a circumstance, however, which I did 
 not so much regret, as it breeds very commonly in 
 Wermland. It is very remarkable that, although 
 we often kill the young birds, it is exceedingly 
 rare that we ever kill a perfectly mature goshawk, 
 most that we kill being birds of the year. The 
 goshawk does not migrate from Sweden, but 
 remains here throughout the whole year the old 
 birds, according to Nilsson, in the vicinity of the 
 breeding-place, the birds of the year migrating to 
 other tracts like the snowy owl and jer-falcon ; 
 and this is borne out by the fact that if ever we 
 kill one of these latter birds in the winter in 
 Wermland, it is almost sure to be a bird of the 
 year. All the eggs of the goshawk that I have 
 obtained in Sweden have been dirty- white, save 
 in one instance, when I have seen the egg very 
 faintly, almost indistinctly, dashed with light red- 
 brown the usual number, five. 
 
 The osprey (F. Haliaetiis, Lin. ; " fisk ljuse," 
 Sw.; "tschiftscha," Lap.) was not uncommon in this 
 district. "We took the first nest on June 1. I 
 never saw either the kite (Milvus reyalis, Briss. ; 
 " glada," Sw.), the common buzzard (Buteo vul- 
 garis, Ray ; " orm wriik," Sw.), or the honey 
 buzzard (F. apivoms, L. ; "bi wrtik," Sw.) in 
 Lapland, nor do I believe that any of these come 
 up so far north. 
 
254 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 The rough- legged buzzard (Falco lagopus, 
 Brunn. ; " fjosbent wrak," Sw. ; " biekkam," Lap.) 
 was by far the commonest of all the birds of prey 
 in the Quickiock district during the summer, pro- 
 bably owing to the quantity of lemming which 
 swarmed on these fells. Of all the hawks, I think 
 that this buzzard varies most in the shading of its 
 colouring, and I have remarked that the female 
 is generally lightest, becoming nearly grey- white 
 with age. But if the birds themselves vary, I am 
 sure we may say the same of the eggs, for I have 
 taken them of every shade, from pure white, to a 
 dark-brown blotched egg. It is almost impossible 
 to distinguish these eggs from those of the common 
 buzzard's, except that in general the egg of the 
 rough-legged buzzard is a little larger (but I have 
 seen the egg of the common buzzard as large), 
 and it has a rather finer and bolder character if 
 I may be allowed the term. 
 
 They appeared on these fells as spring mi- 
 grants. The first I observed was early in May, 
 and the first nest I obtained was on May 21, with 
 three eggs ; and although I have obtained the 
 nest with five, and once even with six eggs, I 
 observed that three was the most usual number, 
 and most often sat on, and I have noticed that 
 three eggs is the usual number laid both by the 
 common buzzard and the kite. The nest, a coarse 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 255 
 
 "edifice" of sticks, moss, and grass, loosely put 
 together, was often on a fell-ridge, often in a tree, 
 but never down in the forest ; always on the 
 sides of the fells, but always below the snow region, 
 as I often obtain the nest of the honey buzzard 
 in Wermland. I may here observe that we in- 
 variably find them breeding not in the deep fir 
 forest, but in smaller plantings, where much birch 
 is mixed with the fir. The nest here, however, 
 is always on a fir, not on a birch. It is nearly as 
 large as that of the common buzzard, built chiefly 
 of thickish sticks ; but there is one peculiarity in 
 this nest which I never observed in any other of 
 the buzzards. You will always find some green 
 birch branches interwoven with the dry sticks. 
 They go to nest the latest of the whole tribe. We 
 never take a nest till June ; and this year, 1863, 
 I obtained one as late as August 14. The eggs 
 vary much in colour, and are certainly finer and 
 deeper-coloured than any others of this genus. 
 The only egg for which they can be mistaken 
 are those of the peregrine, but they are usually 
 rounder and deeper coloured. Two is in general the 
 full number. I have occasionally seen rough- 
 legged buzzards beating over the lower meadows 
 in the end of July, after the young ducks, but I 
 never by any chance saw one in the forests. The 
 fells appear to be their peculiar summer home, for 
 
256 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 they breed in no other part of Sweden ; and on 
 August 18, the last day that I was on the fells, I 
 counted seventeen on the wing, soaring very high 
 over one fell tract ; and the reader may further 
 fancy that they were very common here from the 
 fact that more than fifty nests were destroyed in 
 this district during the spring of 1862. In habits, 
 flight, and appearance, the rough-legged buzzard 
 much resembles its congener, the common buzzard, 
 from which it may be always distinguished when 
 in the air by the white root of the tail. Its cry is 
 a loud " ka haa" (not unlike the melancholy call 
 of the common buzzard), and is in perfect har- 
 mony with the wild, lonely fell-tracts which it 
 frequents. The period of breeding must extend 
 over a very long space of time, for I observed 
 downy young ones in a nest on August 6. I do 
 not think this bird is so sluggish in its habits as 
 the common buzzard; and, although doubtless 
 lemming and fell mice form their principal food, I 
 am certain that they destroy many ptarmigan, for 
 I have seen the ground surrounding the nest 
 thickly strewed with the feathers of the ptarmigan. 
 
 Of the harriers I am not certain that I saw 
 one in Lapland, although I fancied once I saw a 
 pair of the marsh harriers flying over the river- 
 side at Quickiock. 
 
 The snowy owl (Strix nyctea; "fall uggla," 
 
ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 257 
 
 Sw. ; " ku ku," "skuolfe," Lap.). Owing, perhaps, 
 to the lemming migrations, which appear to draw 
 all the birds of prey in the north into one focus, 
 the snowy owl has not been rare on the Quickiock 
 fells during the last three seasons ; and in 1861 
 three nests, all containing young birds, were 
 destroyed by the Laps within sixty miles of 
 Qnickiock. In no single instance were the old 
 birds killed ; but they did not come back to breed 
 in the same localities in 1862, for we carefully 
 examined every old nest. However, in the 
 beginning of June, I sent two Laps off to the 
 great lake Wihrigaur. The road was bad, and 
 the snow lay deep on the fells ; but they returned 
 within the week, bringing with them a nest and 
 six eggs of the snowy owl, as well as the old 
 female, which they had shot. I was much pleased 
 to see the marked difference between this egg and 
 the egg of any other of the large European owls. 
 It is more elongated and not so round or large as 
 the egg of the eagle owl (but of course perfectly 
 white); and it is larger than that of the Lap owl 
 (Strix Lapponica). The egg of the snowy owl 
 measures just the same in length as that of the 
 eagle owl (2J inches); its breadth is If inches, 
 that of the eagle owl being 2 inches full. The 
 nest was nothing more than a large boll of rein- 
 deer moss, placed on the ledge of a bare fell. 
 
258 A SPEING AND STJMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 The old birds appeared to guard it most jealously; 
 in fact, the Laps often kill them with a stick when 
 they are robbing the nest, which they do upon 
 every occasion that presents itself. The snowy owl 
 will occasionally make its nest on the large turf 
 hillocks in some of the mosses. 
 
 Considering the number of eggs that the 
 snowy owl lays, and the wild inaccessible nature of 
 the country in which its nest is usually built, I 
 cannot help wondering that this bird is not more 
 common on these fells ; but if we take into con- 
 sideration the immense fell tract stretching from 
 the Dovre fell, in Norway, right up to the North 
 Cape, and think of the tens of thousand acres 
 whereon human foot never treads, but over which 
 these birds have almost an undisputed range, our 
 wonder ceases. The old birds appear rarely to 
 leave the high fells, and if we want them we must 
 seek them in their wild mountain home. They 
 appear, however, to make periodical migrations 
 after the lemming, and therefore in some seasons 
 are common in districts where they have perhaps 
 not appeared for years. Still, I fancy the snowy 
 owl is more local than erratic. On some years 
 there appears to be a kind of general migration 
 of these birds down from the fells, and I remem- 
 ber in the winter of 1860, they were so numerous 
 in Wermland, that about fourteen specimens 
 
OX THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 
 
 (chiefly birds of the year) were shot or trapped in 
 that province. 
 
 An opinion is held here that the snowy owl 
 becomes whiter in the winter (and I think this 
 very probable), and that the female is always 
 purer in colour than the male. It is clearly a 
 diurnal bird ; for any day when we went out on 
 the fells we could see the white owl perched on a 
 distant rock watching us, or beating over the fells 
 with a stately measured flight always, however, 
 out of gunshot. Its shriek when on the wing 
 resembles a loud "krau-au," repeated three or 
 four times ; but it is seldom heard except when 
 the bird is excited. Some of the movements of 
 this bird are very extraordinary, and I once saw 
 one fall from a considerable height on to the 
 ground, where it lay for some time perfectly 
 motionless, with outstretched wings, as if it were 
 shot. I tried to creep up within gunshot, but it 
 rose out of distance, and sailed away uttering a 
 wild loud cry, " Rick, rick, rick," as if mocking 
 me. 
 
 The hawk owl (Striae funerea, Lath.; " hok 
 uggla," Sw. ; " girgelodde," Lap.) was by far the 
 commonest owl in this district, and although, of 
 course, like the rest of the tribe, the lemming 
 forms its principal food when they are "in 
 season," I don't believe this bird migrates much, 
 
260 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 but remains stationary in the same district 
 throughout the year. It is true, however, that in 
 the winter we occasionally kill an odd example, 
 both old birds and birds of the year, as far south 
 as Wermland, but I do not think, except as stray 
 individuals, that they migrate from their native 
 forests. The range of the hawk owl in the north is 
 precisely that of the Siberian jay the lower fir 
 forests at the foot and by the sides of the fells ; 
 but I fancy that the Siberian jay breed further 
 south than the hawk owl. You never by any 
 chance, however, meet with them out of the fir 
 forests. 
 
 The hawk owl is by no means shy, and in the 
 breeding season it is one of the boldest of all 
 birds. Seated on the top of a dead pine, close to 
 the nest where his mate is sitting, the old male 
 bird keeps a constant watch, and as soon as any 
 one appears to be approaching the nest, he raises 
 his tail and head, after the manner of the cuckoo, 
 and uttering a shrill cry, not unlike that of the 
 kestrel hawk, down he comes full on the head of 
 the intruder ; dashing by with the speed of light- 
 ning, he returns to the charge again and again, 
 till he has either cleared the coast, or has paid the 
 penalty of Ins rashness with his life. My lad was 
 really frightened at this bird, and always hated 
 to go up to a nest ; and well he might, for on one 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 261 
 
 occasion, when taking the eggs out of a dead pine, 
 without a branch to help him, holding on, as the 
 sailors say, "by his eyelids," forty feet from the 
 ground, the old bird made a swoop down on his 
 head, struck off his cap (through the top of which 
 a large slit was cut), and in a moment returned to 
 the charge, tearing off a very fair- sized claw- full of 
 his hair. I was standing below, and knocked the 
 old bird over ; and had I not been at the bottom 
 of the tree with my gun, the lad might easily have 
 been beaten off his hazardous perch. There is no 
 trouble in shooting the hawk owl if you have only 
 a dog in the forest ; for, whatever time of year it 
 may be, as soon as ever the bird spies a dog below 
 him, it always descends to give battle. 
 
 In flight, manners, and appearance, the hawk 
 owl is closely allied to the hawks. It is strictly 
 diurnal in its habits, and to the stealthy quiet 
 flight of the owl adds the spirit and courage of tli< i 
 falcon. Hardly a forest bird is safe from the 
 attacks of these owls. I have seen them strike 
 down the Siberian jay, their closest neighbour, on 
 the wing, and more than once have I disturbed 
 them feeding on the old willow-grouse, a bird half 
 as large again as themselves. Their principal 
 food appears to be birds, lemming, and wood- 
 mice ; but I have often taken insects out of their 
 stomachs. There is little difference in the 
 
2C2 A snore ASD SUIOCEB is LAPLASD. 
 
 plumage of the male and female, but the latter 
 is rather the larger; and in the breeding season I 
 hare observed that the breast and belly of the 
 female is strongly tinged with reddish-brown, 
 The male takes his torn at sitting (as is the case 
 with the woodpecker), for I have shot both as 
 they flew oat of the hole from the eggs. The 
 hawk owl moults very early, as do many of the 
 northern birds. Like the Siberian jay, the old 
 birds may be seen in deep moult, without tails, 
 even before the young are flyers; and in both the 
 autumnal moult is complete as soon as the young 
 birds are full leathered. The hawk owl is then in 
 its best plumage, and its clean, pure, shiny dress 
 at that season is very different from the dingy 
 00!oHfillg of Hpnn^. 
 
 The nest is always in a hole in a rotten pine or 
 fir, sometimes at a considerable height from the 
 ground, Morris says the eggs are white (here he 
 is right) ; but he also says the " nest is built in a 
 tree, and composed of sticks, grass, and feathers; 
 the eggs, like those of the owls generally, of the 
 dual number," Now I know of no European owl 
 which, as a rule, lays so few as two eggs. The 
 eagle owl, in every instance that I have seen, lays 
 three; and though I never myself took the nest 
 of the Lap owl (for although it is shot occasionally 
 there, it does not appear to breed in the Quickiock 
 
OH Tinf OHH rTlff mTM^T OF 
 
 >ts), through the kindness of Mr. A. Newton, 
 I possess a genuine specimen of this egg, which 
 was taken from a nest with MOM eggs near 
 Muniovara in 1861. This egg is rather rounder 
 and not so elongated as that of the snowy owL 
 
 the breeding habits of the Ural owl (Strix 
 tfrafeims, Pall.), we know nothing for certain; 
 but of all the other European owls I believe five 
 or six to be the full number. On June 13th, I 
 took a clutch of the hawk owl with eight eggs 
 probably a second clutch from a bird whose first 
 nest had been robbed, for we seldom found fresh 
 qp0taftv*)ttMaud rak b M.iv, Mi ^arl\ m 
 
 o we shot young flyers. I also took, on May 
 lutch of Tengmalm's owl, with tea eggs. 
 But these certainly wane exceptional cases. As to 
 the nest, I never saw a *e*< of either, the eggs 
 having been always laid, like those of the wood* 
 pecker, in a hole, with nothing under them but a 
 lew dry splinters and chips of the rotten or fresh 
 wood, as the case might be. 
 
 The eggs of the hawk owl very often so much 
 resemble those of the short-eared owl that one 
 might well pass for the other; but they are in 
 general a little smaller, more elongated and 
 pointed at the small end, of a deep dirty white. 
 Usual sue 1$ inch by 11. 
 
 ngmalm's owl (Stri* 2b*MM Qm.; 
 
264 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 " perl uggla," Sw.) was, next to the last, the 
 commonest owl in our forests, but being much 
 more nocturnal in its habits than the hawk owl, 
 it was not so often seen; not that the light 
 appears much to affect its vision, for here the 
 summer nights are as light as day, and we rarely 
 went into the forest on any night without seeing 
 this pretty little owl hawking after its prey. The 
 eggs of this owl vary much in shape, but not so 
 much in size. In the same nest you will see some 
 eggs as round as musket-balls, others oval and 
 elongated. The usual size, however, is about 
 If by 1 inch. This owl has a much more south- 
 ern range than the last, for we not unfrequently 
 take nests in South Wermland ; but, strange to say, 
 they are met with, like those of the crossbills, 
 only about every third year. This owl goes to 
 nest early ; after the end of May you rarely find 
 eggs. It has been remarked that whenever this 
 owl has appeared in autumn, in the very south of 
 Sweden, a severe winter has always followed. We 
 found it to occupy in the Quickiock forest precisely 
 the same range as the hawk owl, and we never by 
 any chance saw one on the fell sides higher than 
 the fir region. It is a bold, voracious little bird. 
 One light night I shot a female in full chase after 
 lemming on a frozen lake. In Wermland, on one 
 occasion, having caught an old female on the eggs, 
 
ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 265 
 
 I took her home in a small fishing creel, and cast- 
 ing in a titmouse which I had shot, found it nearly 
 devoured when I arrived home. I had her for a 
 long time in a cage, and a very pretty little pet 
 she was, becoming very tame. The call-note was 
 a very musical soft whistle, which, however, I 
 never heard except in the evening and night. I 
 could never detect the slightest difference in 
 plumage between the male and female. Till I 
 took the nest in "Wermland, no Swedish naturalist 
 appeared to be aware of the fact of this little owl 
 breeding so far south. We took our first nest at 
 Quickiock on May 2, and our last on May 30. In 
 Wermland we often take the nest in the end of April. 
 The lesser European sparrow owl (Strix pas- 
 serina, Lin., " sparf uggla," Sw.). No Swedish 
 naturalist seemed to be aware that this little owl 
 had so high a northern range as Lapland, nor did 
 I fancy so myself, for I always considered that the 
 midland forests of Sweden and Norway were its 
 proper habitat. As I had not succeeded in find- 
 ing the eggs at Quickiock, I began to feel con- 
 vinced that such was the case, but on July 12th 
 one of my lads brought me in a family an old 
 female and four young birds, which must have just 
 left the nest, for he chased the young birds down. 
 They were evidently bred in this immediate neigh- 
 bourhood, and I was much pleased at obtaining 
 
266 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 them, for it is always gratifying when we can add 
 any new facts, however trifling, to the knowledge 
 we already possess relative to the habits of the 
 feathered race. This female, and one of the young 
 birds, are admirably figured in Dr. Bree's beautiful 
 work on the birds of Europe, and he also quotes 
 the following remarks from my letter to him of 
 March, 1863, on the habits of this little owl : 
 " I have lately been in our forests, and found out 
 more about the habits of this little owl. It cer- 
 tainly breeds with us (in South Wermland), and I 
 do hope to get you the eggs this year." (This, 
 however, I failed to do, and strange to say, I 
 know of no egg collector whose cabinet possesses 
 authentic specimens of the egg of this little owl, 
 which is by no means scarce in the middle of 
 Sweden.) " I have a live one now in a cage, and a 
 most amusing pet it is. Although diurnal in its 
 habits, it seems always to sit very still, except in 
 the early morning and evening. As far as I can 
 make out, this is the earliest bird in our forest, 
 for the old poachers who go out before daybreak 
 to shoot the capercailzie on the perch in spring, 
 say that the first call note they hear in the forest 
 is that of this bird. They also say that as soon 
 as ever they hear this in the spring they reckon that 
 the season for the ' lek,' or play of the capercailzie 
 is not far distant. 
 
ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 267 
 
 " The note of this little owl is a whistle, one 
 long loud whe-e-e, like blowing into a key, then a 
 number of fine notes, quickly repeated, ( ti-meet, 
 ti-meet, ti-meet, ti-meet,' not so loud. One night 
 early in March, I slept at the house of a game- 
 keeper, in a forest which we knew was frequented 
 by these little owls, and about 4 A.M. I heard the 
 first note. The bird was in a fir planting about 
 800 yards distant from our house, and yet, as 
 the morning was still, we could hear it very dis- 
 tinctly. I had often heard this note before in our 
 forests, but always took it for that of Tengmalm's 
 owl. I stole up quietly, and, to make quite sure, 
 shot a female of this little owl, with the ovary 
 rather forward. 
 
 " I do not think that they breed in the south of 
 Sweden, and they are rare or accidental in Denmark. 
 They are bold and voracious for their size, and I 
 have, more than once, known them strike down a 
 titmouse in the forest. In fact, my little owl 
 made very short work with a wounded crossbill 
 which I put into its cage. Although, at present, 
 we appear to know little or nothing for certain of 
 the breeding habits of this owl, we may take it for 
 granted that it lays more than two eggs, as stated 
 by Temminck, for out of the family we saw at 
 Quickiock I obtained four specimens, and I am 
 not certain but that one or more escaped." 
 
268 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 This little owl must not be confounded with 
 the little night owl of Britain, to which Nilsson 
 has given the best synonym, that of Stria nudipes, 
 nor with the American little owl (Strix acadeca, 
 Bon., p. 66, Wilson), which latter bird seems to 
 me to be a kind of link between Tengmalm's owl 
 {which does not appear to be known in America, 
 although "Wilson evidently confounds it with the 
 American Strix acadeca) and the Strix passerina, L. 
 It differs from the little owl of Britain, in that its 
 toes are covered thickly with downy hair like 
 feathers, even to the very claws, and the tail 
 extends nearly an inch and a half beyond the 
 closed wings, whereas in the British bird it is 
 scarcely longer than the wings themselves. More- 
 over, in the little owl of Britain, the first wing 
 feather is equal in length to the sixth, the second 
 like to the fifth, the third longest. In the little 
 Swedish owl, the first is like the ninth, the second 
 like the sixth, the third and fourth the longest. 
 
 I may add that the little British owl can hardly 
 be included in the Scandinavian fauna, only one 
 specimen having been taken, in a church in the 
 south of Sweden ; and although, according to Dr. 
 Bree, the lesser European sparrow owl is met with 
 in Switzerland and occasionally in the north of Ger- 
 many, I fancy Scandinavia is its proper home. 
 
 Some confusion still exists in the identification 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 269 
 
 of the smaller owls, and much yet remains to be 
 proved regarding their habits and geographical 
 range. 
 
 The eagle owl (Strive bubo, L. ; " berglef," Sw. ; 
 "lidno," Lap.). Although I neither saw the bird 
 or obtained its nest in Lapland, the eagle owl 
 bred on a high mountain just opposite Quickiock, 
 on the other side of the river ; and the deep- 
 measured " boo, boo," of the old bird, like the dis- 
 tant bark of a gruff old watch-dog, might be heard 
 on any evening when we were out in the neigh- 
 bourhood of its eyrie. I not unfrequently take 
 the nest in Wermland, and it breeds commonly 
 both around Gothenburg and in the south of 
 Sweden ; but I think its proper home is more in 
 the midland than in the northern districts of the 
 country. The egg of the eagle owl is the largest 
 of all the European owls' eggs. Nearly round, 
 measuring often 2f by 2 inches. 
 
 The short-eared owl (Strix brachyotus, Gm. ; 
 " igjalodde," Lap.; "kort ceraduf," Sw.) was a sum- 
 mer visitant to Lapland, arriving towards the end 
 of May, and during the whole season was very 
 common on all our fells. It frequented exactly the 
 same tracts as the merlin; and although, perhaps, 
 strictly speaking, more nocturnal than diurnal in 
 its habits, was very often to be seen hawking over 
 the fells in broad daylight; its flight much re- 
 

 270 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 sembling that of the goat- sucker. It is a very- 
 bold bird, and I once saw a short-eared owl actually 
 beat off a golden eagle from the vicinity of the 
 nest. I have often been amused, while lying by 
 my camp-fire on the fells at midnight, by watch- 
 ing the curious gyrations of this bird in the air, 
 which much reminded me of the common lapwing. 
 Its loud cry, "wau-au," is like the barking of a dog. 
 We always used to find the nest on the ground, 
 on the lower fells (not on the snow- fells), and the 
 full number of eggs appeared to be six. The egg 
 tolerably round, measuring 1^ by 1^ inches. 
 
 Neither the long-eared owl (Strix otus, L.), 
 nor the brown owl (Strix aluco, Gm.) are met 
 with in Lapland at least certainly not in this 
 district. Old Acerbi, however, includes the latter 
 among the birds of Lapland, but we cannot place 
 much faith in his ornithological remarks ; for if 
 his description be at all correct, some very curious 
 kinds, many of which must now be extinct, 
 appear to have been met with in Lapland at his 
 day. 
 
 There are, however, two other Lap owls which 
 I never met with myself in this district the Lap 
 owl (Strix Lapponica, Retz. ; " aapu," Lap. ; " Lap 
 uggla," Sw.), which does not appear to have been 
 known until the end of the last century, and the 
 Ural owl (StrixUralensis, Pall.; "slag uggla," Sw.), 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 271 
 
 Respecting the first, I cannot but express my sur- 
 prise that we did not find it at Quickiock, for the 
 nest has been taken both at lockmock and Gellivare, 
 and further north, near Munio; and I can only 
 account for the circumstance by the fact that the 
 forests just round Quickiock are too small. The 
 Lap owl is a true forest owl, and builds a large nest, 
 generally high up in a largish pine, in the very deep 
 forest. As to the Ural owl, a great mystery appears 
 to hang over this bird, and especially over its breed- 
 ing habits. By all I could learn, it is occasionally 
 seen near Quickiock. It is not uncommon around 
 Skellefteu, on the coast near which place I obtained 
 a fine specimen of a female on my journey up ; 
 and it is also said to be common near Lepsala, in 
 Lapland. 
 
 In the district around Quickiock the great 
 shrike (Lanius excubitor, Lin.; "var fogel," Sw. ; 
 "utsah ruoscha garanas," Lap.) was by no 
 means common; and although we shot five or 
 six young birds when the season was over, we 
 only obtained one nest, containing five eggs. 
 This was on May 13th. We shot the old female. 
 The nest was placed in a small fir not high from 
 the ground. It was one of the warmest and most 
 comfortable nests I have ever seen, large and 
 deep ; built outwardly of dead fir-branches, and 
 lined with a very thick layer of the pure white 
 
272 A SPEING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 feathers of the willow grouse. The great shrike 
 was the only species I ever met with in Lapland. 
 
 The cuckoo (Guculus canorus, Lin.; " gok," 
 Sw. ; "giekka," Lap.) was as common in the fell 
 valleys as in the lowlands ; and I have heard its 
 monotonous, but familiar and cheering call-note 
 throughout the whole summer nights at the foot 
 of the real snow fells, high over the limits of the 
 forests. 
 
 The great black woodpecker (Picus martins, 
 Lin. ; " spill kroka," Sw.) was quite as common 
 up here as in the middle of Sweden. We took the 
 first nest on May 5, which is about two weeks 
 later than we find them in the Wermland forests. 
 As far as I can remark, five is the full number of 
 eggs, which vary much in size, sometimes being 
 very little larger than those of the green wood- 
 pecker (Picus viridis, Lin.), which bird I never 
 saw in Lapland. 
 
 The three-toed woodpecker (Picus tridactylus, 
 Lin. ; " tschaitne," Lap. ; " tretaig hackspett," 
 Sw.) Of all the woodpeckers this is the com- 
 monest in Lapland, and goes up the fell sides as 
 far as the fir forests extend ; but, common as it 
 was, I was unable to obtain more than four nests 
 (three with eggs, and one with young). In two 
 instances the full number of eggs was three, and 
 I never saw more than four in one nest. This 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 273 
 
 species appears to be a much later breeder than 
 that last described ; they showed no signs of 
 going to nest until about June 5. I fancy most 
 of the woodpeckers are partial migrants, for in our 
 Wermland forests we often in the winter kill both 
 this and the grey-headed green woodpecker (Picus 
 canus, Gm.), and the white-rumped woodpecker 
 (P. leuconotuS) Tern.), but we never find the nest 
 of either in Wermland ; but since my return (on 
 Oct. 11) I shot a Picus tridactylus, a bird of the 
 year, which must have been bred near Gardsjo. I 
 never met with either the grey-headed or white- 
 rumped woodpecker in Lapland, although I saw 
 one of the latter sitting on a fence by the roadside, 
 between Umea and Piteii, on our journey up. The 
 egg of the three-toed woodpecker is rather less 
 than that of the great spotted woodpecker, and 
 more tapering towards the small end. 
 
 The great spotted woodpecker (Picus major, 
 Lin. ; " store hackspett," Sw.), and the lesser 
 spotted woodpecker (Picus minor, Lin. ; " tsitsach 
 tschaitne," Lap.; " mindre hackspett," Sw.), were 
 both met with here, but thejgreater spotted was 
 the rarer of the two. I consider the egg of the 
 lesser spotted woodpecker a most difficult one to 
 obtain, well authenticated. They appear to go to 
 nest late, and I have always obtained the eggs out 
 of a hole in a small dead fir or aspen. The num- 
 
 T 
 
274 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 ber usually five, sometimes six. The collector 
 should be very careful in the identification of 
 the eggs of all the woodpeckers. The egg of the 
 wryneck is doubtless often substituted for that of 
 the lesser spotted woodpecker, but, on placing two 
 genuine fresh eggs side by side, the difference may 
 be easily detected, for the egg of the wryneck has 
 a more elongated form, and the white colour, 
 although perhaps purer, has not so much of that 
 beautiful shiny gloss which characterises the eggs 
 of all the woodpeckers. 
 
 I never saw the wryneck ( Yunx torquilla, Lin.) 
 in Lapland. 
 
 The raven (Corvus corax, Lin. ; " korp," Sw. ; 
 " garanas," Lap.) was very common on the fells. 
 I saw only one pair of the hooded crow (Corvus 
 comix, Lin.; " vuort sches," Lap.) at Quickiock ; 
 they appeared as spring migrants, early in April. 
 I cannot say whether they would have stayed to 
 breed with us, as both were shot and brought to 
 me by a boy as great rarities here. 
 
 The rook (Corvus frugilegus, Lin.; "raka," 
 Sw.) This is a rare bird in Sweden, and supposed 
 to be confined to the very south of the country. I 
 never met with it in the middle of Sweden. Judge 
 of my surprise, therefore, when one morning, early 
 in May, I saw two birds stalking about a wet 
 meadow, which I knew could be no others than a 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 275 
 
 pair of my old friends the rooks. They remained 
 with us about three days, when, I suppose, not 
 liking the appearance of the place, they migrated 
 a few miles further south ; but they might just as 
 well have remained where they were, for in a few 
 days they were brought in to me by a boy who 
 had shot them. This was adding a new fact to 
 the Swedish fauna. For what purpose they had 
 travelled up here was hard to say ; but the fact of 
 this single pair of rooks being met with so far 
 north, proves how much the habits of birds may 
 be altered by circumstances, for no bird is perhaps 
 more thoroughly gregarious than the rook. Now, if 
 these birds had come up here to breed, it must have 
 been like the carrion crow in a solitary manner. 
 
 I never saw the magpie (Pica caudata, Ray) 
 up at Quickiock, but they are occasionally met 
 with at lockmock. 
 
 Although I never met with the nutcracker 
 (Caryocatactes guttatus, Miss.) up here, I am 
 pretty certain that it breeds in Lapland, for the 
 Laps know the bird and have a name for it ; but 
 the breeding habits of this strange bird seem at 
 present to be shrouded in an impenetrable mystery. 
 
 I never saw the jay (Garrulus glandarius, 
 Briss.) up here, but it seems occasionally to visit 
 these forests, for they describe a larger kind of 
 "lafskrika" at Quickiock, which, in some years, 
 
276 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 is pretty common, and which, they say, breeds 
 later than the common Garrulus infaustus. It 
 can be no other than the common jay. 
 
 The Siberian jay (Garrulus infaustus, Nob. ; 
 "gnofsak/'Lap. ; "lafskrika," Sw.) "We come now 
 to a peculiarly northern bird, and one which is as 
 familiar to the Laplander as the miner and mock- 
 ing-bird are to the wanderer in the Australian 
 bush, for go where you will in the Lap forests 
 this cheerful, bold bird is sure to be your com- 
 panion now hopping on the ground before you, 
 now floating from one tree to another, or, perched 
 on the lower branch of a fir, it will sit and utter 
 its melancholy "mew" till another of its com- 
 rades is attracted to the spot, when it instantly 
 gives chase, and a battle royal appears always 
 to take place. In some of its habits the lafskrika 
 resembles its congener, the common jay, but it is 
 not half so noisy, and a much more companionable 
 sort of a bird, although it never comes so near 
 the houses. It is one of the boldest birds that I 
 know, and I never liked to shoot one, for there 
 was something of a cheery welcome to the stranger 
 in the free, unsuspecting habits of this bird. It 
 is, nevertheless, a very savage bird of prey ; and 
 I once actually saw a lafskrika give chase to an 
 old willow grouse a bird ten times its own 
 weight. It never could have been for the purpose 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 277 
 
 of killing and eating it. I do not think these 
 birds are nearly so gregarious as the common jay, 
 and, in my opinion, much more carnivorous. I 
 cannot say how it may be in the depth of winter, 
 but certainly those we saw together after the 
 breeding season were families, and when \vo 
 arrived in the spring the birds had paired. I 
 cannot agree with the accounts which some natu- 
 ralists give of the extreme difficulty in finding the 
 nest of this bird. It is true that they breed in 
 April, when the snow lies deep in the forest ; and 
 a man without " skiddor " cannot get on at all, 
 except just in the very early morning after a sharp 
 night's frost. They are, moreover, very quiet in 
 their breeding habits, and, as old Major Bagstock 
 would say, " Sly ! devilish sly! " for once I watched 
 one (evidently building) come hopping, with a 
 stick in its mouth, towards me. As soon, how- 
 ever, as it caught sight of me, it dropped the 
 stick and flew back like an arrow to the place 
 from whence it came. But when once built, there 
 is little difficulty in finding the nest by any one 
 who has a pair of good eyes in his head, for it is 
 very large, never placed very high in a small fir, 
 and generally in a most conspicuous situation, 
 often by the side of a pathway in the forest. I am 
 certain, if I had wanted them, I could easily have 
 procured a dozen nests in these forests. The first 
 
278 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 nest that we took in Lapland belonged to this 
 bird (on April 21), with three eggs, and this, I 
 think, is about the number ; for although I found 
 one nest with four eggs, and once shot an old 
 female from a nest of three, out of which I took 
 another full coloured egg just ready for laying 
 they say here that the lafskrika begins to sit as 
 soon as the first egg is laid, and I fancy this is 
 the case with the crossbills all the other nests 
 contained but three eggs, and these often sat on. 
 I never met with the Siberian jay out of the forests 
 save on one occasion, when we were eating our 
 dinner on a tolerably high fell, at the foot of an 
 old dead fir which had been stuck up on its 
 highest peak as a kind of landmark, when a 
 lafskrika perched on the top of it and watched us 
 at our repast, all the while uttering its long plaintive 
 mew as if begging for an invitation. In the middle 
 of June I shot strong flyers. The nest is thick and 
 large, formed outwardly of dead fir branches, and 
 thickly lined inside with feathers. The egg is a lit- 
 tle smaller than that of the jay, ground colour pale 
 bluish grey, mottled and dashed all over, especially 
 at the large end, with darker grey and light brown. 
 I shot two specimens of the starling (Sturnus 
 vulgaris, Lin. ; "starre," Sw.) close to the priest's 
 house, on April 26, before the snow had begun 
 to go, but I never saw another. 
 

 ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OP LAPLAND. 279 
 
 There is no northern bird whose breeding 
 liabits have been shrouded in such mystery as the 
 waxwing chatterer (Bombycitta garrula, Veil. ; 
 " sidensvans," Sw. ; " baeljerastasch," Lap.). So 
 many different accounts have been given by 
 men who had evidently never met with the bird 
 in the summer season, that the thanks of every 
 naturalist are due to the indefatigable exertions 
 of the late Mr. Wooley for setting at rest the 
 qucestio vexata. It is difficult to believe half 
 one hears up here; but he must evidently have 
 been in " the thick of them," for he is reported 
 to have obtained upwards of 400 eggs up near 
 Munioniska, at least with the assistance of the 
 Laps. Ij was, however, not so lucky, for we 
 never saw the waxwing while we were at Quick- 
 iock ; and the only nest I obtained was from a col- 
 lector there, with two eggs, which was taken the 
 year before about an English mile from Quickiock, 
 and the old female snared on the nest. In some 
 seasons, however, they are rather common here, 
 l3ut the waxwings appear to be as uncertain in 
 their summer as in their winter migrations, for 
 ven in the tracts around Munio, from which Mr. 
 Wooley obtained so many eggs in 1855 or 1856, 
 in some seasons hardly a nest is to be found. The 
 nest is large, with thick walls, not very neatly or 
 artistically built ; outside, sticks, grass, and rein- 
 
280 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 deer moss mixed, then a layer of fibrous hairy moss 
 ( Usnea larbata) ; lined inside with coarse grass, 
 but no feathers. The eggs, four or five in number* 
 resemble those of the Sylvia turdoides, nearly as. 
 large as those of the common bunting, but shorter,, 
 the ground colour pale bluish-white, thickly 
 speckled all over with purple, black, and brown 
 spots, but leaving the ground colour of the egg 
 very visible. They go to nest early in June. It 
 is strange that out of all the Swedish naturalists 
 who have travelled in Lapland no one had dis- 
 covered the nest of this bird; and as for the fabu- 
 lous prices which are said to have been offered for 
 the egg of the waxwing, I do not believe there is 
 a man in Sweden who would have given 5s. for it> 
 even before it had been well authenticated by Mr, 
 "Wooley. The Swedish naturalists in general care 
 very little about eggs ; in fact, they will pay very 
 little in money for a specimen of any kind. I 
 fancy the waxwing is one of those silent birds that 
 take care never to betray the locality of their nest ; 
 and these Lap forests are so interminable that a 
 man may wander mile after mile, and only by 
 chance hit upon the nest of any bird except the 
 very commonest, unless he knows well the habits 
 of the bird. 
 
 Although Lowenhjelm includes the night-jar 
 (Caprimulgus Europceus, Lin.; "natskara," Sw.) 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 281 
 
 in the list of Lap birds, I never met with it at 
 Quickiock, nor did I ever hear of one having ever 
 been seen there. 
 
 The swift (Cypselus apus, HI. ; " torn svala," 
 Sw.) was very common around Quickiock, and I 
 often saw them hawking over the very high fells. 
 I think the swift was the latest summer migrant 
 that arrived at Quickiock, and when we left on 
 August 21 some were still there. We had the 
 swallow (Hirundo wistica, Lin.; "ladu svala," 
 Sw.), the common martin (H. urbica, Lin. ; " hus 
 svala," Sw.), and the bank martin (H. riparia^ 
 Lin. ; " strand svala," Sw.), more common, I 
 think, up here than even in Wermland. 
 
 The pied flycatcher (Muscicapa atricapilla, 
 Lin.; "svart och hoit flugsnappare," Sw.) was 
 much commoner up here than its congener the 
 common flycatcher (M. grisola, Lin. ; "gra flug- 
 snappare," Sw.). I never saw the pied flycatcher 
 on the very fells, but as far up as the birch region 
 extends. I used, however, to find the nest prin- 
 cipally in small dead birch stubs by the river 
 side. 
 
 The common thrush (Turdus musicus, Lin. ; 
 " sang trast," Sw.) was not nearly so common as 
 either the redwing or fieldfare ; and a boy brought 
 me in two nests of the common thrush, which he 
 wanted to sell me as great curiosities here, and he 
 
282 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 valued them as much as nests of the pied gros- 
 beak; in fact, it might, as well as the missel- 
 thrash (Turdus viscivorus, Lin. ; " dubbel trast," 
 Sw.), be considered rare in this district. I only 
 took one nest of the missel-thrush here (and it 
 was considered a great rarity), and that was on 
 July 9, with four fresh eggs. I was surprised at 
 this, for I always considered that, both in England 
 and in the middle of Sweden, this bird was among 
 our earliest breeders. 
 
 The fieldfare (T. pilaris, Lin.; "bjork trast," 
 Sw. ; " baflerastes," Lap.) was, next to the bramb- 
 ling, the commonest bird in these forests, and its 
 hoarse, laughing cackle (for I never heard this bird 
 make the faintest attempt at a song) followed us 
 wherever we went in the fir forest (and I never saw 
 the fieldfare breeding anywhere else). These birds 
 are, in fact, the greatest nuisance to the collector 
 in these woods. They did not breed here in 
 colonies, for, although the nests are seldom far 
 apart, we never found two in the same tree. I 
 think no thrush's egg is subject to so much varia- 
 tion as the egg of the fieldfare, and it would be 
 almost impossible to describe it better than that it 
 much resembles the egg of the blackbird, but is 
 usually more highly coloured. We took our first 
 nest on May 25, and our last on July 7 ; but at 
 this time some of the young were flyers. 
 
ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 283 
 
 The redwing (1\ iliacus, Lin.; "rodvinge 
 trast," Sw. ; " miestag rastes," Lap.) appeared to 
 be nearly as common as the fieldfare, with which 
 they associated much in the breeding season ; and, 
 quite contrary to its habits in Wermland (where we 
 always find the nest solitary, and in the thickest 
 bushes), it bred here in company with the fieldfare, 
 and we always found the nest in the same situa- 
 tion in a small fir, never very high up, and always 
 close in to the stem. The nest is smaller and more 
 neatly built than that of the fieldfare. Although 
 the eggs of the fieldfare vary much in size, it is 
 rarely that they are so small as those of the red- 
 wing, and I can hardly see how one egg could ever 
 be mistaken for the other. The egg of the red- 
 wing is always smaller, neater, and purer in colour 
 than that of the fieldfare. It has, moreover, when 
 fresh, a peculiar green tinge, which, however, fades 
 soon after the egg is blown. You rarely see an 
 egg spotted like that of the fieldfare they are 
 (generally) of a uniform green colouring, which 
 soon fades to green-brown. Of all the northern 
 songsters, perhaps the redwing stands first on 
 the list, and is with justice called the northern 
 nightingale, for a sweeter song I never wish to 
 listen to when this rich gush of melody is poured 
 out from the thick covert of a fir in the " silence of 
 twilight's contemplative hour," or oft en in the still 
 
284 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 hour of midnight when all else in nature is at rest. 
 But as soon as the breeding season commences this 
 beautiful song ceases, and is now changed to a kind 
 of call " Twee, twee, twee, twee, tweet," ending 
 with a little trill. (I fully agree with Morris when 
 he says, " We have always thought the endeavour- 
 ing to express the notes of birds by syllables a 
 very unsatisfactory method.") During the season 
 you rarely see the bird, but, hidden in a fir, it 
 utters this monotonous loud call, and as soon as 
 you approach the tree it quietly flies to another. 
 The note was quite new to me, and I was most 
 anxious to find out what bird uttered it ; and I 
 shall not easily forget the trouble I had before I 
 solved the mystery. We took our first nest on 
 May 22. In the autumn, when they migrate 
 down to Wermland, they have a very pretty song 
 early in the morning. 
 
 The ring ouzel (T. torquatus, Lin.; "ring 
 trast," Sw.) was not a common bird here ; but a 
 pair or two were distributed here and at the bot- 
 tom of the fells. We took two nests the one 
 from a tree, the other from the ground as late as 
 July 2. Of all the thrushes, perhaps the wild 
 desultory carol of the ring ouzel is loudest and 
 clearest. 
 
 The water ouzel (Cinclus aquaticus, Bech. ; 
 "strom starre," Sw. ; " guoikgarek," Lap.) was 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 285 
 
 very common in all the rivers at the foot of the 
 fells, and, if they did not remain here all the win- 
 ter, must have been very early spring migrants, 
 for we saw them when we arrived, running along 
 the ice by the sides of the waterfalls, or sitting on 
 the snow banks, uttering their low, plaintive little 
 song, which always sounds to me like nothing but 
 a rehearsal. It is a cheerful little bird, and, were 
 it not for the belief that it is a great enemy to the 
 spawn of fish, must be a favourite with every 
 northern angler. 
 
 The wheatear (Saxicola cvnanthe, Nob. ; "stens- 
 quatta," Sw.). The whinchat (Saxicola rubetra, 
 Bechst. ; " busks quatta," Sw.). Of the two the 
 wheatear seemed far more common here, and was 
 generally spread over all the lower fells. I fancy 
 it used to go much higher up than its congener 
 the whinchat. 
 
 Of the common little "Warblers, the only ones 
 I could clearly identify in this district were the 
 following (but I may add that, in these moss- 
 grown, stubby firs, and thick willow plantations, it 
 is difficult to detect these little, mice-like birds, 
 especially as they were a class of birds we did not 
 care much to look for). 
 
 The garden warbler (Sylvia hortensis, Bechst.; 
 " trad gard sangare," Sw.) ; the willow warbler 
 (8. trochilus, Lath.; "lof sangare," Sw.) much 
 
1 
 
 286 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 more common Lhan the last and the chiffchaff 
 (8. abietena, Nilss. ; "gran sangare," Sw.) ; the 
 redstart (8. phcenicurus, Bechst. ; "rodstjert," 
 Sw.) very common both in the lowlands and by 
 the side of the fells; "and the hedge sparrow 
 (Accentor modularis, Cuv. ; "jern sparf," Sw.),. 
 which appeared to be entirely confined to the lower 
 fir- woods, and, unlike the hedge-sparrow in Eng- 
 land, altogether to shun the companionship of 
 man. 
 
 I never saw the robin here; nor could I 
 identify either the reed or sedge warblers ; but,, 
 as I have before said, I might have overlooked 
 them. 
 
 The blue-throated warbler (8. suecica, Keys 
 and Bl. ; " bla hake sangare," Sw. ; " gjelanselgo," 
 Lap.). Contrary to my expectations, this hand- 
 some little warbler was rare in this district, and 
 very local. I think they arrived the latest of all 
 the warblers, for I did not see one till early in 
 June, when they appeared to come dropping in 
 singly, stayed a few days in the lowlands, and then 
 made their way up at once to the flat swampy mea- 
 dows at the foot of and between the fells. Here, 
 among the stunted willow-bushes, always near 
 water, you might see the female creeping from 
 branch to branch like a mouse, while the male, 
 perched on the top of a high bush or a dead. 
 
ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 287 
 
 tree, would trill out his clear, loud, rich 
 song. 
 
 The note of the blue-throated warbler is cer- 
 tainly louder and more varied than that of any 
 other warbler, and it well deserves its Lap name of 
 " saddan kiellinen " (or hundred tongues) totally 
 different from anything I ever heard before ; in 
 fact it is quite impossible to describe it on paper. 
 The nest is most difficult to find, and I only pro- 
 cured two (on June 27), on one of which I caught 
 the old female. Both were built in the ground, 
 quite open, with no shelter of a bush, and one I 
 had to cut out with my knife. The nest was 
 altogether formed of dry grass, deep cup shaped. 
 Eggs, in both cases, six, pale bluish-green, minutely 
 spotted with rusty brown, giving the eggs quite a 
 rusty appearance. We shot the young flyers in the 
 end of July. The habits of this warbler are cer- 
 tainly far more aquatic than those of the redstart, 
 and on August 3rd, 1863, while beating a reedy 
 meadow in Wermland for double snipe, I shot one 
 example of the female blue-throated warbler. 
 
 Of the pipits, I only met the common meadow 
 pipit ( Anthus pratensis, Bechst. ; " ang piplarka," 
 Sw.), and we used to find this very high up on 
 the fells. 
 
 Of the tree pipit I never got a specimen here. 
 I never could identify the red-throated pipit (A. 
 
288 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 cervinus, Pall.) on these fells, although it is met 
 with a little north. 
 
 The continental white wagtail (Motacilla alba, 
 Lin. ; " ring aria/' Sw.) was scarcely so common 
 here as the yellow wagtail, "gularla," which 
 abounded in all the lowlands. The yellow wagtail 
 did not make its appearance till the 17th of May, or 
 nearly three weeks later than the white wagtail. I 
 never saw up here the common variety of the yellow 
 wagtail (Motacilla neglecta, Gould), which is our 
 common one in Wermland ; all that I met with 
 here were the Motacilla borealis, Sund. In all the 
 males I killed, the head was black, with or with- 
 out a white streak over the eye. The call-note 
 and habits of this wagtail resemble much those 
 of the Motacilla neglecta; and it is hard to say 
 whether we are justified in considering it as a 
 distinct species, or anything more than a northernly 
 form. If, however, the grey-headed yellow wag- 
 tail is to be considered as a distinct species from 
 Bay's wagtail, I think this M. lorealis (Sund.) is 
 also entitled to be considered distinct ; but we are 
 .all yet much in the dark respecting the European 
 wagtails; and perhaps after all, which I think 
 highly probable, we have but three distinct species 
 of the wagtail in Europe. 
 
 Of the titmice, as may be supposed, we had 
 plenty of individuals in these forests, although 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 289 
 
 fewer species that I had imagined, tlie only two 
 which I could identify being the marsh tit (if our 
 Pants borealis is identical with the Pants paluxtris 
 of Britain,) and the Siberian tit (P. Sibiricua^ Gm. ; 
 " Sibiris mes," Sw.). I believe it is, however, 
 admitted now that this Parus borealis (De Selys), is 
 nothing more than the northern form of the 
 P. palustrls. To me the note appears very differ- 
 ent, and I invariably find the nest of the P. 1)0, 
 in the deep forest, never by water, built always 
 of the inner fibres of the bark of some dead tree, 
 probably the willow or alder. They both app 
 to associate in the winter ; but the Siberian tit 
 could be detected in a moment by its louder call- 
 note ; the habits of both and the localities they 
 frequented were much alike. The nest of the 
 Siberian tit, like that of its congener, was always 
 placed in a stub, the nest built of the blue fur of 
 some species of field-mouse; a very thick wall, 
 but flat, and with a little moss at the bottom out- 
 side; the eggs six or seven, in shape, size, and colour- 
 ing much resembling those of the crested tit (which 
 I was surprised to find did not come up so far 
 north as this). The Siberian tit seem to go to 
 nest later than the P. boreali*; for the first nest 
 we obtained was on June 5, whereas I found 
 nests of the other as early as May 20. 
 
 I never but once saw the golden-crested wren 
 
 L T 
 
290 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 (Regulus cristatus, Ray ; "kungs fogee," Sw.) up 
 here. This was a single example, which I shot 
 on May 8 ; and on the same day I saw one 
 specimen of the tree creeper (CertMafamiliaris, 
 Lin.; "trad krypare," Sw.). But, as I never 
 again met with either, I think we may conclude 
 that they are very rare here. I never either saw 
 or heard of the nuthatch (Sitta Europea, Lin.) 
 in Lapland. 
 
 The skylark (Alauda arvensis, Lin. ; " sang 
 larka," Sw.) was one of our earliest spring mi- 
 grants, for I saw a pair in the end of April. 
 They kept close to our house for a few days, when 
 they disappeared, and I never saw any more, nor 
 did I hear of a nest being taken here. 
 
 But the shore lark (A. alpestris, Lin. ; " berg 
 larka," Sw.; "ruoschaalap," Lap.) was the common 
 fell lark, and on this year they appear to have 
 been more common around Quickiock that usual. 
 On April 28 I shot the first, a single specimen, 
 close to the house ; and after that, small flocks 
 of them kept dropping in for about three weeks, 
 when they all left us and went up on to the fells to 
 breed. When in the lowlands they kept in small 
 flocks on the bare patches of cultivated land which 
 the snow had left by the river side ; and their 
 habits were exactly the same as those I watched 
 on the coast of Scania in the winter of 1849-1850. 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 291 
 
 They were not at all shy, but very restless, sweep- 
 ing in small flocks just over the surface of the 
 ground, uttering their feeble single call-note. 
 They never flew far and soon pitched again. That 
 they came in tolerable quantities may be gathered 
 from the fact that in about three weeks I obtained 
 more than fifty specimens, and, strange to say, 
 every one, except one single example, were males. 
 By all Swedish naturalists the shore lark is con- 
 sidered very rare in Sweden ; but I think it must 
 have been overlooked. I consider the Sw 
 name "berglarkii," or rock lark, much more appro- 
 priate than our British name of "shore lark." 
 The colours of this bird appear to be much brighter 
 and richer in the spring than at any other season. 
 There is little difference then between the male 
 and female ; but a female which I shot on July 2 
 had a very pale yellow forehead; horns scarcely 
 perceptible; top of the head and forehead only 
 speckled with black, a little darkish on the fore- 
 head; throat very faint yellow; the black shield 
 on the breast small, and not nearly so dark as in 
 the male ; back all speckled with blackish-brown, 
 not pure light chestnut, as in the male. The 
 female which I shot on April 20 had the ovary 
 small, but very distinct. The colours were much 
 brighter than in the summer, and it much more 
 resembled the male, save that the yellow was not 
 
292 A SPUING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 so brilliant, although the black was nearly as deep. 
 But one thing I remarked in the spring, that in 
 twenty-four hours after the bird was killed the 
 yellow colour appeared to fade. When skinning 
 them in the spring, I always observed a faint, 
 musky smell about them. Sommerfeet describes 
 the nest and egg thus : " They breed as well 
 close to the sea as further inland; not always 
 among grass and moss, but in gravel, and among 
 the dead leaves which have fallen from the birch 
 bushes. The nest is built of grass, and I never saw 
 any feathers in it. Their three to five eggs are in 
 general yellow, or yellow-grey, with yellowish- 
 grey or grey-blue and brown spots, often crowded 
 at the large end. You find them breeding early 
 in May, and also in July." 
 
 Strange to say, I can neither describe the nest 
 nor egg of this bird ; for, although we never went 
 on to the fells in the summer without seeing them, 
 and in the middle of July we shot many young, we 
 were never able to find a single nest, much as we 
 searched localities where we felt certain that the 
 bird bred. I cannot help thinking that on these 
 fells the old female builds her nest in crevices of 
 rocks, and often far in under stones ; for I have 
 more than once seen her come out of such places, 
 and by her habits it appeared as if she had just 
 left the nest. By the end of July both males and 
 females were in deep moult. 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 293 
 
 Of the buntings, we had the yellow bunting 
 (Emberiza citrineUa, Lin. ; " gulsparf," Sw.), very 
 common ; and if they did not remain here all the 
 winter, they came before us in the spring. 
 
 The black-headed bunting (E. schanicuhu, Lin.; 
 " siifsparf "). A summer migrant, common in the 
 willow bushes by the river side. 
 
 The ortolan bunting (E. hortuluna, Lin.) Very 
 rare. I could only find one nest. 
 
 And the two northern buntings the snow 
 l)i n it ing and the Lapland bunting. 
 
 Although they did not appear to remain 1 
 throughout the winter, we observed small flocks of 
 snow bunting (Emberiza nivalis, Lin.; " sno sparf," 
 Sw.; "alap," Lap.) during our whole journey up 
 north of Hernosand; and very soon after we arrived 
 I shot specimens at Quickiock in nearly pure winter 
 dress ; they appeared to leave the lowlands for 
 the fells early in May. During the summer they 
 were always higher up on the fells than the shore 
 lark. We never could find a nest of the snow 
 bunting, although they bred commonly on our 
 fells, and we shot the old birds in summer dress 
 as well as young flyers in the end of July. But I 
 shot one young flyer as early as July 6. I do not 
 so much wonder that we did not find the nest of 
 this bird, for the wildest and most desolate spots 
 on the fells appeared to be their summer home. 
 
294 A SPUING AND SUMMEtt IN LAPLAND. 
 
 On tliese fells tliere are thousands of acres (we 
 may say many miles) covered with nothing but 
 loose, shingly slate and ironstone, and boulders of 
 erratic rock, which are most difficult to traverse ; 
 and here we always saw the snow bunting during 
 the breeding season, although when the young 
 could fly they appeared to draw down lower on the 
 fells. 
 
 The Lapland bunting (E. Lappomcd, Lin. ; 
 " lapsparf," Sw. ; "tschappis vuoolasch," Lap.) 
 appeared to arrive later than any of the others, 
 and, unlike the shore lark, did not rest in the low- 
 lands, but went straight up to the fells at once ; 
 for I don't think we saw six examples at Quickiock 
 the whole spring ; whereas in the middle of June 
 they were literally swarming in certain places 
 on the fell meadows so much so, that in one 
 night we took thirteen nests, from all of which we 
 shot the old birds. They seemed, however, to be 
 very local ; and it was long before we could dis- 
 cover their breeding place, for we never saw them 
 on the high fells. At last we found a low flat at 
 the foot of the highest snow-fells (but still, per- 
 haps, 2,000 feet above Quickiock). This was 
 covered with rough tussocky grass and patches of 
 willow bushes, and studded with innumerable lakes 
 and water-courses, and proved a rich tract to us 
 a real " Tom Tiddler's ground" for here we found 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 295 
 
 the nests of the Lap bunting, blue-throated warbler, 
 broad-billed sandpiper, Temminck's stint, wood 
 sandpiper, phalarope, scaup duck, and long-tailed 
 duck. If we had only pitched our tent in this fell 
 meadow for a month, no telling what varieties we 
 should have met with. Independently of this, it was 
 one of the sweetest spots that could well be imagined 
 a real oiisis in the desert ; and I never enjoyed 
 a summer ramble as I did in this wild tract. 
 There are certain circumstances in life, as well as 
 places, which leave too lasting an impression on 
 the mind ever to be obliterated, and this fell 
 meadow forms one of the brightest flowers in the 
 field of memory as regards my Lapland journey. 
 
 When I first searched this spot I was attracted 
 by a soft loud pipe, very much resembling tho call 
 of the golden plover, but fainter. I was certain, 
 however, it was not that, for it seemed to oome 
 from the low ground, and in the evening was all 
 round me. It was long before I could make it 
 out, for I never could see the bird, till at last one 
 rose. I shot it on the wing, and it was a male 
 Lap bunting. The mystery was solved, and we 
 had no difficulty now in finding the nest, which was 
 never far off. I soon became more familiar with 
 their habits. The female rarely rises, except you 
 tread close to the nest, but runs away on the 
 ground much like the pipit. The male sits on a 
 
296 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 stone or heap of earth, uttering this monotonous, 
 plaintive whistle till disturbed, when he rises in 
 the air, much after the manner of the common 
 bunting, soars for a while, and then suddenly 
 drops down to the ground, as we see the skylark 
 into a field of young wheat at home. "While in 
 the air, the song of the Lapland bunting is as rich 
 and clear as that of any of our songsters not 
 so shrill as that of the lark, but far sweeter and 
 more varied, for in this song the clear flute-like 
 note of the corn bunting is blended with the 
 varying strain of the skylark, and I thought I 
 never listened to a sweeter melody. Oh, how 
 often have I at such times envied the feelings of 
 the true naturalist, who can listen to the artless 
 song of the little bird without wishing it in his 
 game bag, and watch its habits without hoping 
 soon to see it lying on his skinning table ! There 
 must, however, be collectors, or our knowledge of 
 the feathered race would stand still ; but depend 
 upon it, the study of the animal creation loses half 
 its innocent charms as soon as we make it a matter 
 of pounds, shillings, and pence. " Bosh !" I fancy 
 I hear the surly critic exclaim ; and so it may be, 
 but it is nevertheless true. 
 
 The nest of the Lapland bunting, as far as I 
 could see, was always placed on the ground, gene- 
 rally sheltered by a tussock of grass, occasion- 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 297 
 
 ally under a small bush, built invariably altogether 
 of fine grass, loosely and without much care. The 
 eggs vary much in colour ; and like those of the 
 meadow and red-throated pipits, become paler with 
 age. They combine the characters both of the 
 bunting and pipifc, and often resemble those of the 
 black-headed bunting, but are more clouded than 
 streaked ; and I have seen them very like those of 
 the meadow pipit. This is one of the small eggs 
 that requires very careful identification. Six 
 appears to be the full number. By the end of July we 
 shot strong flyers, although most of the nests we 
 took were about the 27th June. 
 
 I never saw the common sparrow (FringiUa 
 domestica, Lin.) at Quickiock, though I obser\ 
 them common at lockmock on our way home ; and 
 probably as cultivation spreads, this impudent 
 little bird will follow the plough. 
 
 The chaffinch (F. calebs, Lin.; "bofink," 
 Sw.) was common up here, but not nearly so 
 much so as its congener, 
 
 The brambling (F. montifringilla, Lin. ; " berg 
 fink," Sw. ; "vintan," Lap.,) was certainly the 
 commonest of all the small birds in our forests 
 during the summer ; and the flocks which we used 
 to see on the bare patches of cultivated land early 
 in May (when they first arrived) were past all 
 belief. Every forest was soon filled with them, 
 
298 A SITING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 and their monotonous call-note, " cree, cree," 
 was heard from every tree. In some parts of the 
 north the brambling is called " har sparf," because 
 they say that the grey ling or "harr" come up 
 from the deeps as soon as this bird appears. 
 When they first arrived they seemed to be in full 
 summer dress. We took our first nest on June 2. 
 As far as I could see, the nest was always placed 
 in a small fir, generally six to ten feet from the 
 ground, very like that of the chaffinch, built out- 
 wardly of moss and fine grass, thickly lined with 
 feathers of the willow grouse, deep and cup- shaped, 
 but hardly so neat and pretty as that of the chaf- 
 finch. Six eggs appear to be about the full 
 number, though I have often seen seven in one 
 nest. The eggs are very like those of the chaffinch, 
 but generally a trifle smaller, darker in the ground 
 colour, and the purple lines and dots more coloured. 
 Still the greatest caution is required in identifying 
 the eggs, for where both these birds breed in the 
 same district the nests may easily be confounded ; 
 and this was a nest which I would always take 
 myself, and see the old bird. I got plenty of these 
 nests, and could have had as many more had I 
 wanted them. 
 
 Like the mealy redpole, there was a little mys- 
 tery regarding the breeding of the brambling. We 
 took our first nest on June 2, and again as late as 
 
.: 
 
 N T THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 299 
 
 August 3 I took two nests with fresh eggs. Could 
 it be possible that these birds bred twice in the 
 season ? 
 
 I never could hear the brambling make the 
 slightest attempt at a song, although I do not 
 deny that it can sing. 
 
 At Quickiock, when we first came up, we saw 
 largo flocks of the mealy redpole (F. boreal is, 
 Tern. ; " gra siska, morisk," Sw. ; " om oltsit- 
 sasch," Lap.) It was exceedingly common in the 
 district, and seemed to have remained here all tho 
 winter. Of the mealy redpole we have two forms, 
 if they are not distinct species, in the north ; the 
 one is the F. linaria Alnorum, Sund., from its 
 partiality to the seeds of the alder (Betula Alnus), 
 which is called the " liing nabbad," or long-beaked 
 form, the beak being 3^ lines in length. This is 
 the common mealy redpole. The other is the 
 F. linaria betularum, Sund., so called from its 
 partiality to the fruit of the birch (Betula alba), 
 which is called the " kort nabbad," or short- 
 beaked form, the beak being only 2| lines long. 
 This form seems to be almost confined to the 
 north, and is rarely seen south of Stockholm. I 
 never met with it until I came up to Quickiock. 
 But in the winter of 1862 I shot four specimens 
 of the short-beaked bird at Gardsjo, South "Werm- 
 land, out of a large flock of the common mealy 
 
300 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 redpole. The difference in the size of the beaks of 
 the two birds is very apparent, and I always 
 fancied the short-beaked bird was duller in plumage 
 than the other. Besides these, I shot two speci- 
 mens of a mealy redpole, nearly white. I would 
 suggest a comparison between this short-beaked 
 form and our lesser redpole, which at present has 
 not been identified in the north. I observed that 
 the red breast of the male birds became much 
 deeper and more vivid as the season advanced; 
 in fact, they did not appear to be in full summer 
 dress till many of the young were flyers. I think 
 the nest of the mealy redpole is one of the most 
 beautiful I ever saw ; perfectly cup- shaped ; built 
 of fine sticks, then a layer of fine grass, and lined 
 inwardly with the white down of the willow, and] 
 white feathers of the willow grouse, forming one 
 of the prettiest little mementos of the Lap forest 
 that I know ; the eggs often as many as six, some- 
 times pale light blue, unspotted, generally much 
 resembling those of the lesser redpole, and veryj 
 little larger. 
 
 I saw the common linnet (F. cannabina, Lin.) 
 once or twice in the meadows, in the end of July, 
 but I never took the nest. 
 
 The bullfinch ( Phyrrhula vulgaris, Tern. ; 
 "domherre," Sw.) was rather common just around 
 Quickiock. We, however, never saw them till 
 

 ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 301 
 
 July, and I obtained a nest with fresh eggs as late 
 as August 2. 
 
 The common crossbill (Loxin < //r/Vostfra, Lin.; 
 "korsnabb," Sw.; "batsak lodde," Lap.). We saw 
 very few crossbills in these forests, and I don't 
 think they breed here, for they used to appear 
 only at uncertain periods. I never saw the parrot 
 crossbill here. All that we killed were the com- 
 mon bird. I don't think that the parrot crossbill 
 has so high a northern range as the other. 
 
 I have been lately much interested in the 
 study of the change of plumage of birds, and tho 
 three which I have turned my attention to have 
 been the crossbills, the pine grosbeak, and the 
 ptarmigan. This has proved a most interesting 
 study. The reader will find my remarks regard- 
 ing the grosbeaks and ptarmigan in the proper 
 place ; and I will now proceed to notice the differ- 
 ent changes of plumage in the crossbills, of which 
 little appears to be known even at this advanced 
 stage of the science of natural history. I may 
 add that my observations respecting all these 
 three birds are the result of the actual examina- 
 tions of scores of specimens, both in the fixed and 
 intermediate plumage ; and I do not believe that 
 any naturalist living has paid more attention to 
 this subject, than myself or had better opportuni- 
 ties of examining the birds in a state of nature. 
 
302 A SPRING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 As regards the crossbills, I can clearly prove, 
 by specimens killed in a state of nature, that they 
 have four distinct dresses, assumed at different 
 ages, and these I will shortly describe. The first 
 dress, after just leaving the nest till up to the first 
 moult in the autumn (in September), is greenish- 
 brown, with dark longitudinal streaks down each 
 feather ; and in this first plumage there is little 
 difference between the male and the female. In 
 the nest plumage the beaks of the young birds are 
 straight ; but the mandibles soon begin to cross 
 each other after leaving the nest ; and in young 
 birds of the year killed by me in November, the 
 beak was nearly as much crooked as in the older 
 birds. Sometimes the point of the under man- 
 dible crosses to the right, sometimes to the left. 
 
 As soon as the first autumnal moult is com- 
 plete, the females are easily distinguished from the 
 males. The young striped feathers are very ap- 
 parent in both, all through the winter and folloyr- 
 ing spring ; but all the under parts are tinged in 
 the young males with yellow orange, and in the 
 females with bright yellow. In the males the 
 heads and rumps are orange, in the females only 
 tinged with yellow. 
 
 In not one single young male of the year which 
 I have shot in the winter (and the birds of the 
 year are easily distinguished at this season by the 
 

 ON THE OKNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAXP. 303 
 
 presence of the dark striped feathers) was there 
 the slightest indication to lead one to suppose 
 that he would become red before the next moult. 
 The question is, when will that moult take place ? 
 some fancy in May, some in the ensuing Septem- 
 ber. I think it very probable that a change in 
 colour takes place in May, for it appears to me 
 t this orange colour gradually reddens without 
 ulting. And so much do the shades vary that 
 rcely two young males are exactly alike. It is 
 impossible to say how long this young plumage 
 lasts, but I am inclined to think certainly until 
 the second autumnal moult of the bird, perhaps 
 gradually becoming redder, and probably in many 
 birds even longer ; for early in November I have 
 killed young males of a beautiful orange-red colour, 
 which, from their size and general appearance, and 
 the total absence of the dark striped feathers of 
 youth, could not have been birds of the year. 
 These orange birds might certainly have been bred 
 very early in the preceding spring, but I think 
 not ; and I almost feel confident that this orange- 
 red colour is a gradual transition to the red dress, 
 or else that the mature male crossbill owns two 
 dresses i.e., that some birds of thesame age are 
 orange-red and others deep red. Of one thing, 
 however, I am perfectly convinced, that none of 
 the young males obtain the full deep-red dress at 
 
304 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 the first autumnal moult. In the year 1863 I 
 obtained the males breeding in the same woods in 
 three different dresses 1st, in the early striped 
 dress above described (these were evidently birds 
 of the year) ; 2ndly, in this orange-red dress ; and, 
 3rdly, in the deep-red dress. 
 
 I am at present of opinion that this orange-red 
 dress is a transition gradually assumed between 
 the first autumnal dress and the deep-red plumage 
 in which we usually see the male crossbill depicted, 
 and which I consider their standard livery, and worn 
 by them longer than any other. 
 
 I may remark, however, that in our forests we 
 meet with far more of the deep-red birds than of 
 these orange-plumage males. 
 
 Respecting the bright yellow-green dress which 
 the old male crossbills occasionally assume (but 
 which, although so rare that we very seldom 
 meet with it, we must nevertheless still consider 
 as normal), it is hard to say at what age it is 
 assumed, but we may reasonably infer at a very 
 advanced period of life in a state of nature; 
 though it is said that as soon as either a male 
 crossbill or grosbeak is confined in a cage, it 
 changes from red to bright yellow-green at once, 
 and this colour it wears till it dies. This may or 
 may not be the effect of confinement, but as I 
 have killed the old birds of both in this yellow- 
 

 ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 305 
 
 green plumage, in a state of nature, I for one do 
 not hesitate to pronounce it normal. 
 
 This latter dress can never be confounded with 
 the yellow-orange plumage of youth by any one 
 wlio has had opportunities of comparing the two. 
 
 In the summer the red dress of the male cross- 
 bill appears to become darker, and the only change 
 that I can observe in the female is that the yellow 
 shading on the head and rump become brighter 
 with age, but always brightest in the breeding 
 season. 
 
 So much for the changes of plumage. I will 
 now make a few remarks on the habits of the 
 crossbills. I fully agree with Thompson that " he 
 is inclined to consider the crossbills as a wander- 
 ing tribe, having no proper home, but who pitch 
 their tent and take up their residence at a place 
 just so long as it suits them, without contemplat- 
 ing a return to any particular region." 
 
 This is peculiarly the case in our forests. They 
 appear to leave us as suddenly as they come, and 
 as soon as the breeding season is over they leave 
 for other districts, and we see very few, often 
 none, in the summer. It is not every year that 
 we have them, and it is singular that we rarely 
 ever have both the parrot and common crossbill 
 breeding with us in the same year. I take it all 
 depends upon the state of the cones on the pines 
 
 x 
 
306 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 and firs. When there are plenty of fir cones in 
 the autumn, it is pretty certain that we shall have 
 the common crossbills breeding with us that 
 winter, and the same with the parrot crossbills 
 when the cones on the pines are plentiful. But 
 this appears to happen in our forests only about 
 every third or fourth year. One curious fact I 
 have observed, which is this, that if we see large 
 flocks of crossbills in our forests in the autumn 
 (they generally appear about September or early 
 in October), we shall have very little snow that 
 winter. 
 
 The pairing season begins about the middle of 
 January, when both male and female have a very 
 pretty song : that of the female, however, much 
 the faintest. Were it not for the difference of the 
 landscape, we might almost at this season imagine 
 ourselves in the tropical forests of the south, when 
 we watch a little flock of these birds feeding, 
 flitting from cone to cone, or climbing over them 
 with their backs downwards, like the parrots, their 
 bright-red or orange plumage reflected in the rays 
 of the afternoon sun (at which time they are gene- 
 rally busiest feeding), which even at this inclement 
 season gilds the tops of the firs for an hour or two 
 before sinking below the horizon. 
 
 They go to nest often in the end of January, 
 always by the middle of February. The nest of 
 

 OX THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 307 
 
 both, species is placed (almost invariably) in a 
 small pine, near to the top, close in to the stem, 
 never in a deep forest, but always with us on a 
 stony rise, where the pines are small and wide 
 apart. The parrot crossbill generally goes to nest 
 a little later than the common one. By the middle 
 
 :end of April the young birds are strong flyers, 
 1 we never take a nest with eggs after that month. 
 e nest of both species is much alike (that of the 
 -rot crossbill thickest and largest), built out- 
 wardly of dry fir sticks, lined thickly with moss 
 and grass. The eggs much resemble those of the 
 green linnet, but are always larger. The egg of the 
 parrot crossbill is often scarcely larger than that 
 of the common bird, although usually it is thicker 
 and has a finer and bolder character. The full 
 number of eggs appears to be three, and it is very 
 rarely that we find four in a nest. Some natura- 
 lists say that the crossbills breed at all seasons, 
 from December to June, and that the winter nest 
 is domed, with a hole in the side to go in at. All 
 I can say is (and I have had now some years' ex- 
 perience with these birds), that I consider their 
 breeding season as regular as that of any other 
 bird, at the period I have before stated ; and as 
 for a domed nest, I never saw such a thing. I 
 have often wondered why nature should have 
 neglected this provision as regards the crossbill, 
 
308 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 for in the end of March, 1863 (in which year I took 
 above thirty-five nests out of our woods), when the 
 weather was very stormy and rainy, I found more 
 than a dozen nests, in which the unfledged young 
 had perished through the inclemency of the 
 weather. 
 
 The pine grosbeak (Cory thus enucleator, "tall- 
 bit," Sw.) I was much pleased on arriving at 
 Quickiock to see small flocks of pine grosbeaks in 
 the fir forests, close to the village, which appeared 
 to have remained here throughout the winter, at 
 least I saw frozen specimens which had been killed 
 in February, but these might have migrated and 
 returned again, for I have always noticed that 
 when the grosbeak come into our Wermland 
 forests in the winter, they usually appear early in 
 November and leave us in February. By the first 
 week in May they had paired, and we took our 
 first nest on June 4, with three eggs, in a small 
 fir, about ten feet from the ground, on the side of 
 a small fell, in by no means a large wood ; and I 
 may here observe that all the nests we took were 
 built in small firs, never high from the ground, or 
 in deep woods, and generally in rather conspicuous 
 situations ; the nest always placed close in to the 
 stem. All the trees in the Quickiock forests are 
 so small and stunted, and the branches so bare, 
 that scarcely any bird, except the very small ones. 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 309 
 
 milds its nest out on the branch. The old female 
 was very silent, and by no means shy. The male 
 was red. In all, I found five nests, of which two 
 had four eggs (which I take to be the full number, 
 although, as the crossbills, they appear to sit 
 sometimes on three), and two had young. The 
 nest is neither large nor deep, but very compactly 
 and cleanly built like basket-work, the outside 
 walling of very fine fir branches and thin cranberry 
 fibres tightly interlaced, lined with fine stiff grass 
 and a little hair. The eggs vary much, both in 
 size and colouring, but are usually about the size 
 of those of the hawfinch, but a little thinner, palo 
 blue-green ground, blotched and lined with light 
 purple and dark burnt-umber spots and pricks, 
 always thickest towards the large end; average 
 size 1 inch by f . The nest is very neat and strong 
 without being pretty, and very different from the 
 warm nest of the Siberian jay or great shrike, or 
 the thick mossy nest of the waxwing. Morris's 
 figure, taken from Thieneman, although not 
 correct, nevertheless gives an idea of this egg. 
 He says the nest is lined with feathers there was 
 not a single feather in either of the five nests which 
 I saw. 
 
 I think the nest and eggs of the pine grosbeak 
 one of the neatest and finest which we took in 
 Lapland. 
 
310 A SPRING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 I liad now good opportunities of examining the 
 different stages of plumage in the grosbeak, and I 
 did not neglect them. I could now distinguish 
 the sexes by dissection, and I soon found that my 
 conjectures formed last winter were right, and 
 that all the ash-green birds which I shot then were 
 not females, but that the male has an intermediate 
 dress between the nest plumage and the deep-red 
 (which last dress I fancy they do not assume until 
 the third year), so like that of the female, that it is 
 hard to distinguish one from the other. In all 
 these young ash-green males which I shot in April 
 or May the testes were never so fully developed as 
 in the old red males. Two questions now remained 
 to be answered : was this ash-green dress really 
 intermediate between the nest plumage and the 
 handsome red dress in which we see the old male 
 grosbeak always depicted ? and did these young 
 males breed ? Both these points I solved entirely 
 to my own satisfaction. On June 14 I took a nest 
 with four eggs hard sat on, and shot both old 
 birds. The body colouring of both is nearly the 
 same ash-grey ; in the male slightly tinged with 
 reddish-brown, most on the breast, head reddish- 
 yellow ; in the female, the tinge on the breast and 
 head (especially) is much more yellow; and this 
 is the only difference in the plumage of the two 
 sexes, at this age. This is the usual dress of the 
 

 ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 311 
 
 female at all seasons ; but that it is only inter- 
 mediate, and assumed by the male before he 
 comes to his red dress, I proved by three specimens 
 shot on or about August 4, all in deep moult. 
 They were all young ash-green males, and the 
 red feathers were shooting out all over them 
 
 Eder their ash-grey body plumage ; in fact, many 
 1 already appeared on the head and back. But 
 3n now I do not think that they assume this 
 fine deep-red livery at once, for I have shot male 
 birds with a deep purple tinge on the red, very 
 different from the fine carmine-red which we all 
 have supposed to be the full mature dress of the 
 pine grosbeak. Only one more state of plumage 
 was wanting, and my series would have been com- 
 plete but this, I am sorry to say, I was unable to 
 obtain and this was an old, bright-green, yellow 
 male, the last dress of all. I never met with this 
 in the forest, although I have seen it in a cage ; 
 but I shall never feel satisfied until I have shot 
 such a bird in a state of nature, for I do so much 
 wish to upset the dogma of our savans, who con- 
 tend that this last bright yellow-green dress, both 
 in the crossbills and grosbeak, is not normal) but 
 only the effect of confinement. I have killed the 
 old male parrot crossbill from his nest in this 
 dress, and why not the pine grosbeak? Now I 
 will ask what are we to consider as the true adult 
 
312 A SPEING AND SUMMEB IN LAPLAND. 
 
 plumage of the grosbeak ? and can a bird be called 
 adult as soon as he is able to breed ? I can prove 
 three distinct dresses in the male of this bird at 
 different ages, in all of which they can breed; first, 
 olive- green tinged with yellowish-red ; second, true 
 carmine-red (I think we can hardly call the purple- 
 red a distinct dress, as most probably it changes 
 with age, and I cannot prove that the birds wear 
 it for a year) ; and lastly, a bright yellow-green 
 dress, which is only observed in the very old males, 
 and which, when once assumed, never changes. 
 Now, are we to wait till they have assumed this 
 last yellow-green dress before we consider them 
 mature, and must we contend that no man has 
 arrived at maturity till his hair becomes grey ? I 
 can prove that the grosbeak can breed in both of 
 the first two dresses ; and as I shot the old bright 
 green parrot crossbill breeding, it is reasonable to 
 suppose that the grosbeak does the same. I am 
 not at all surprised at these young ash-green males 
 breeding, for I believe, although I never myself 
 could prove it, that some of the parrots in 
 Australia (of which bird the grosbeak and cross- 
 bill are the European type), breed in this inter- 
 mediate yellow-green dress ; but what I am 
 surprised at is this, that no naturalist, as far as I 
 can see, has noticed this first ash-green plumage 
 in the male grosbeak. Nilsson leads us to suppose 
 
OX THE OEN1THOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 313 
 
 tat the first dress is carmine-red, and that after 
 this they assume the bright yellow-green dress to 
 which I have above alluded. But he mentions 
 nothing of this first ash-green plumage ; and that 
 he never remarked it, is pretty certain, when he 
 refers in his " Synonyms" to the grosbeak in 
 "Wilson's plate (p. 73, Am. Ornithology), which 
 he (Nilsson) says is a younger male, and this 
 figure of Wilson's, in my edition, represents a 
 purple-red male. I fancy Kjcerbolling, the Danish 
 naturalist, had some idea of this change. Although 
 we see far more of these ash-green males than of 
 the red, it seems that we rarely find them breed- 
 ing; for out of five nests which I took, four 
 belonged to red males. The plumage of the 
 young grosbeak appears to vary in the nest as 
 well as in the first dress, for you occasionally see 
 the young birds with a tinge of red on the olive- 
 green body, but in general they are altogether dull 
 olive- green. 
 
 The food of the grosbeak is not, as in the 
 crossbills, from the seed of the fir cones, but the 
 small buds or embryo of the young branches which 
 shoot out from the lateral branches of the fir. But 
 they can pick out the seeds from the cones, both 
 of the pine and fir, quite as cleverly as the cross- 
 bills. They feed as well on the fir as on the pines, 
 and every nest which we took was placed in a fir. 
 
314 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 Very different are the breeding habits of this 
 bird from that of its near relation, the crossbill. 
 As soon as ever they begin to build, the sweet song 
 of the male entirely ceases, and he assiduously 
 assists the female in gathering sticks and fibres 
 for the construction of the nest. JN ot a note do 
 they utter except a gentle " cluck," as if convers- 
 ing together in an under tone; and nothing in 
 their note or habits indicates the proximity of the 
 nest. Not so the crossbill male ; all he appears 
 to have to do with the building part of the business 
 is to sit on a high fir close to the nest, and .cheer 
 his mate in her labours by a loud clear song. 
 Thus the nest of the crossbill is very easy to find, 
 that of the grosbeak difficult. The note of the 
 male grosbeak, both in winter and early spring, is 
 delightful, clear, and flute-like; and I have observed 
 them on a frosty winter day sing in the air while 
 floating from one tree to another, after the manner 
 of the woodlark. But you often hear both male 
 and female keeping up a very low pretty little 
 twitter (without breaking out into a song), as if 
 conversing; as in the crossbill, the female can 
 sing, but not so loudly as the male. You principally 
 hear the song early in the morning, and in egg col- 
 lecting, one hour in the morning before ten o'clock 
 is worth any three after. It is a very fine, bold, 
 tame bird, rather foolish than otherwise, for here 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 315 
 
 ys often snare them from the tree, with a hair 
 noose, on a long pole. It is an excellent cage bird, 
 but must not be kept too warm, or it will soon die. 
 
 The Turtle Dove. Strange to say, a pair 
 of turtle doves (Columba turf HI; Ray; " turtur 
 dufa," Sw.) were shot at Quickiock a few 
 years since, on the ground right in front of 
 the priest's house. We never, however, saw 
 a wild pigeon of any kind in Lapland, nor do 
 I believe, except as an extraordinary instance, 
 that any of the family come up so far north. 
 
 The capercailzie (Tetrao urogalhm, L.) \ 
 very common in these forests. The largest 
 male which I shot up here weighed lllb., and 
 this is about the common size of a large 
 male in Wermland ; so, contrary to the usual 
 opinion here, I do not think the capercailzie 
 in Lapland are so much smaller than those in 
 Wcrmland. 
 
 The hazel grouse (Tet. bonasia, Lin.; "hjerpe," 
 Sw.) was also very common round Quickiock, and 
 I observed that in those which we shot here the 
 plumage was lighter and prettier than in the 
 Wermland hazel grouse. I may add that in these 
 forests, which are thin and scrubby, the sport is 
 much better than in the dense Wermland forests, 
 and a man can now and then get a flying shot. 
 
 The ptarmigan (Lagopus alpina, Nilss. ; " fall 
 
 
316 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 ripa," Sw. ; " keron," Lap.). It is, I now believe, 
 generally admitted by naturalists, that the British, 
 the Scandinavian, and the Iceland ptarmigan are 
 one and the same bird ; it is probable, however, 
 that climate may have an influence on the plumage, 
 and the reader will therefore bear in mind that 
 my remarks apply only to the ptarmigan which 
 we killed on the Quickiock fells, and not to the 
 British bird, which I never saw in a state of 
 nature. This remark is called for from the cir- 
 cumstance that Mr. Gould, who looked over my 
 ptarmigan skins (which presented every stage of 
 plumage to which the Quickiock ptarmigan is 
 subject), observed that not one was so black as 
 those he had received from Snee-hatten, near the 
 Dovre fell, Norway. My remarks and descrip- 
 tions, however, are strictly correct as regards the 
 Quickiock ptarmigan, and few men have had a 
 better season's experience with them than myself. 
 This was one of my principal objects in visiting 
 Lapland, and I obtained specimens during every 
 week of my stay. I came up when they were in 
 the pure white winter dress, and did not leave 
 until the blue autumn plumage was complete ; in 
 fact, many of the white winter feathers were 
 already beginning to appear. No man in Britain 
 could have had so good an opportunity as I had 
 here, for nowhere would he be allowed to shoot 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 317 
 
 te old birds as we did in the spring, old females 
 from the nest, and young chirpers that could 
 scarcely fly. Above 150 specimens passed through 
 my hands, in every stage of plumage ; and I will 
 now proceed to lay before the reader a statement 
 of facts and the inferences which I draw from 
 them. It is singular that the ptarmigan should 
 not be met with in Ireland. 
 
 "We are led to believe that both the ptarmi 
 and willow grouse are found in North America, 
 and probably both are identical with the European 
 birds. Wilson, in Ins " Ornithology " of 1832, edited 
 by Sir W. Jardine, does not figure either ; but in 
 a note Mr. Douglas mentions the ptarmigan as 
 very rare, and the willow grouse, he says, inhabits 
 the far countries from the 50th to the 70th degrees 
 of north latitude, within which limits it is partially 
 migratory. Frank Forrester does not notice 
 either in his " Game Birds of the United States 
 and Canada." 
 
 In both the willow grouse (Lag. subalpina, 
 Nilss.) and the ptarmigan the -winter plumage is 
 exactly the same, pure white, with fourteen black 
 tail feathers ; and to the casual observer they 
 appear to be one and the same bird; but the 
 willow grouse is a larger and plumper bird, the 
 beak is thicker, and the male ptarmigan has a 
 black streak through the eye, which is wanting in 
 
318 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 the willow grouse, as well as in the female ptar- 
 migan. Moreover, in the willow grouse the fifth 
 wing-feather is always longer than the second, in 
 the ptarmigan it is always shorter; and in the 
 winter season the only distinguishing marks be- 
 tween the female ptarmigan and willow grouse, 
 are the difference in the wing-feathers, and that 
 the willow grouse is a more robust bird, with a 
 much thicker beak. I may add that very few of 
 the white grouse, which are sent from the north 
 to England in the winter to the London markets 
 are the real ptarmigan, but willow grouse. The 
 true ptarmigan is seldom taken in snares, for the 
 wild snow-covered regions which they frequent in 
 the winter are rarely accessible to man ; and 
 although at this season they may come lower down 
 on the fells, they are never seen in the forests 
 which the willow grouse frequents ; whereas the 
 latter bird, at no season shy, in the winter becomes 
 still tamer, and comes right down into the bushes 
 close to the dwellings of man. Thousands are 
 then caught in snares, and those snares in use at 
 Quickiock are formed thus : after cutting all the 
 branches from a young birch, about six feet or eight 
 feet long, a horsehair snare is fastened to the top 
 end, which is bent down, and stuck into the snow, 
 so that the snare stands about a hand over the 
 surface. A little hedge of birch branches is built 
 
OX THE ORNITHOLOGY OP LAPLAND. 319 
 
 up on each, side, and along this hedge they stick 
 up birch branches covered with fruit and catkins 
 as a bait for the birds. They set these as soon as 
 sufficient snow has fallen, and as more snow falls 
 they raise the snare. Nilsson says that ptarmigan 
 are occasionally taken in these snares, but from 
 what I could hear this is never the case at Quick- 
 iock. A Lap settler will perhaps own several 
 hundred of these snares. 
 
 In July I weighed one willow grouse and two 
 ptarmigan. The willow grouse weighed just 1 6oz. , 
 or scarcely so much as the red grouse, but the two 
 ptarmigan only 20oz. English. 
 
 When we first arrived on the fells (April 16) 
 some of the ptarmigan were still in pure white 
 winter dress ; others were just beginning to assume 
 the summer plumage, and here and there a summer 
 feather was shooting out on the head and neck. 
 In about a month's time many of the summer 
 feathers had appeared in different parts of the 
 body of both males and females, and about May 
 22 the ovaries of many of the females were in a 
 very forward state, but the change in plumage 
 jrned to go on slowly. On June 5 we took our 
 st nest, with ten eggs, and the old female (which 
 I shot as she rose) showed nearly as much of the 
 winter as of the summer plumage. By June 10 
 the males were, however, greyish-black on the 
 
320 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 head, back, and chest, the belly and under part 
 pure white. The black colour darkest on the 
 breast. 
 
 The change from the winter to the summer 
 dress is clearly a true moult, and not a change of 
 colour in the feathers. It is most difficult to say 
 what is the real summer dress of the ptarmigan, 
 for they appear to be in a continual state of change 
 or moult during the whole summer, and bear no 
 one dress for any length of time ; and so irregular 
 is the moult or change, that you scarcely ever see 
 two exactly alike or in the same state of forward- 
 ness, for in the same day in the end of July you 
 may kill some in the early summer dress, and 
 others with many blue autumn feathers. Up to 
 July 9 I observed that all the old males which I 
 killed were dark brownish-black on the back, 
 speckled with lighter brown, especially on the head, 
 breast, and sides ; belly pure white, but the dark 
 breast is much more conspicuous in some than in 
 others. By July 20 the whole body colour had 
 become much lighter, and by the end of July was 
 evidently changing to blue-grey, but still speckled 
 with brown, especially on the head. By the 6th 
 of August the majority of the males had assumed 
 a totally different dress head still speckled with 
 yellowish-brown, back bluish- grey, watered with 
 black and white ; belly pure white ; and this was 
 
, 
 
 ON THE OENITHOLOGT OF LAPLAXD. 321 
 
 ,he plumage of the males on August 18, when I 
 killed my last. 
 
 This blue watered dress appears by degrees to 
 become fainter, in fact mere grey-blue, until the 
 end of September, but the white winter feathers 
 keep gradually showing themselves under the blue 
 turnnal dress. I observed, in two specimens 
 ot early in October the year before, that one AMIS 
 f blue and half white i.e., that half the body 
 peared to be covered with the blue autumn 
 
 s, the other half with the white winter plum 
 some of which, if not all, were perfectly new 
 feathers, for I observed blood-shafts to many of 
 them ; in the other specimen, very few of the blue 
 autumn feathers remained. From what I could 
 hear, for I did not stop up long enough to judge 
 for myself, I should say that in many, perhaps 
 most, the pure winter dress is complete by the 
 third week in October. 
 
 Much as the males vary in plumage, the females 
 appear to vary still more, and only to have a stand- 
 ing dress for about three weeks in June, just 
 when they are laying, and this early summer dress 
 may be described thus : body blackish-brown, every 
 feather broadly edged with yellow, brown, and 
 white, giving the bird a very light yellow-brown 
 appearance ; breast much lighter; belly never pure 
 white, as in the male, but, as well as the sides and 
 
 T 
 
322 A SPKING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 breast, covered with black zigzag lines on a rusty- 
 yellow and white ground, the white colour most 
 apparent on the belly. By the second week in 
 June this dress was complete in most, although 
 the birds vary much in shading, scarcely two 
 being exactly alike, when it all at once became 
 much darker. In fact we may describe the summer 
 dress of the female ptarmigan thus : throughout 
 the whole of May the ground plumage was white, 
 here and there speckled with mottled rusty yellow 
 and black feathers, which, as in the males, appeal- 
 first on the head and neck, then on the back. By 
 the third week in May the body is thickly speckled 
 with these mottled feathers (some intermingled 
 with the white, others shooting out from the skin 
 under them), so we are not at all surprised that 
 early in June a sudden change takes place, and all 
 at once the bird assumes its early or first summer 
 dress as above described. This appears gradually 
 to darken as the season advances, the dark brown 
 Colour occupying much more space, the yellow 
 feather edges becoming much fainter, and by the 
 beginning of July the female has assumed a totally 
 different and much darker dress. About the end 
 of July we see some small blue feathers shooting 
 out among the rusty brown ones, and this appears 
 to be a true moult, and not a change in colour of 
 the feathers. The bird now assumes a beautiful 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 323 
 
 dress, far more handsome than in the male 
 brown-red, variegated with blue-grey, which often 
 on the back appears in patches. But they vary 
 so much in colour and in the distribution of these 
 blue feathers over the surface of the body that it 
 is impossible to give a correct description. More- 
 over the birds vary so much in the forwardness of 
 this blue dress that on the same day you may kill 
 an old female in the perfect dark summer dress, 
 and another beautifully mottled with blue. I have 
 seen many very handsome " almond tumblers " in 
 my day, but I hardly ever saw one to beat some 
 of the female ptarmigan I killed in the end of July. 
 I fancy both male and female retain this blue dress 
 longer than any other. It gradually becomes 
 lighter as the season advances, till at length t 
 old female is quite blue (but still always with some 
 rusty mottled yellow feathers at the sides), and 
 about the middle of October the blue dress gives 
 place to the pure white plumage of winter. 
 
 Now, which are we to call the true summer 
 dress of the ptarmigan, the nuptial dress, or this 
 blue plumage, which is not assumed till after the 
 season of incubation (although before the young 
 birds are strong flyers), but still long before 
 autumn, and which is retained by the birds longer 
 than any other ? 
 
 By August 4 the young were strong flyers, and 
 
324 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 by August 12 fit to kill. Their plumage in the 
 downy state is rusty yellow, with minute black 
 spots. The first dress after that is black mottled 
 with rusty yellow, and white, above ; underneath, 
 pale rusty brown, with blackish wavy lines ; wings 
 grey-brown. Early in August they assume another 
 dress, and moult as it were for the second time ; 
 the birds are then about ten inches long. The 
 whole body plumage is now grey-blue finely 
 streaked with black, and white pinion feathers 
 now appear in the place of the brown ones of the 
 first dress. The grey plumage gradually becomes 
 lighter, as in the old birds, till like them they 
 assume their white winter livery in the autumn, 
 and by November 1 there is no perceptible differ- 
 ence between the old and young birds. 
 
 It appears, therefore, that the Swedish ptar- 
 migan owns three distinct dresses in the course 
 of the year, and so many curious and puzzling 
 changes that they almost seem to have a different 
 dress for every summer month. 
 
 The question now arises, How many times 
 can the ptarmigan be said really to moult in the 
 course of the year ? I don't mean change colour, 
 for a change seems to be going on all through the 
 summer, but actually to moult; and my opinion is 
 as follows (and here let me observe that this 
 opinion is not grounded on supposition, but on 
 

 ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 325 
 
 the careful examination of specimens in every 
 stage of plumage, both fixed and intermediate) : 
 
 It is quite clear to me that the change from 
 the pure white winter dress to the mottled plumage 
 of spring is an actual moult, and no change of 
 colouring in the feathers, for in all the specimens 
 I obtained from the middle of April to the end 
 of May, the variegated mottled feathers were to 
 be seen, of all sizes, shooting out from the skin, 
 with blood-shafts among and under the white 
 feathers in all parts of the body, some very small, 
 and quite hidden by the white plumage; others 
 full-grown, and occupying patches on the white 
 ground. In not one of the specimens killed at 
 this time could I observe the slightest indication 
 of a white feather gradually changing colour. That 
 the spring dress, however, when once assumed, 
 may change in shading of colour before the blue 
 autumn dress appears, I think very probable. 
 
 Now, with regard to the blue autumn dress. 
 Although I was at first of a different opinion, I 
 am now inclined to think that this dress is also 
 assumed by a perfect moult, and not by the early 
 brown and black mottled feathers becoming blue, 
 for in most of the specimens killed late in July, or 
 early in August, I observed these blue feathers 
 (evidently new), many of them quite small, shoot- 
 ing out of the skin, with blood-shafts under and 
 
326 A SPRING AND SUM ME I! JN LAPLAND. 
 
 among the darker body plumage, while patches 
 of blue feathers were already full-grown ; but, 
 again, not a single indication of a brown-mottled 
 feather becoming blue. It is therefore clear that, 
 if some of the mottled spring feathers should 
 change their colour to blue, a greater proportion 
 of this blue autumnal dress is obtained by a 
 regular moult. 
 
 And now, with regard to the change from this 
 blue autumnal dress to the pure white of winter ; 
 I am now decidedly of opinion that this is also a 
 true moult in fact, that it is the usual autumnal 
 moult peculiar to the feathered race. I certainly 
 may, however, remark that in the birds I killed in 
 August, many of the blue feathers were white 
 half-way up from the bottom, and with broad 
 white edges, as if they were gradually becoming 
 white ; so I do not wonder that the general opinion 
 should be that these blue feathers gradually whiten, 
 the transition appears so easy and natural. But 
 then, on the other hand, in some of the birds 
 killed as early as the second week in August, I 
 observed some new white feathers shooting out 
 under the blue; and, in the two specimens to 
 which I have above referred as killed in the end 
 of September and October, the white feathers were 
 apparently all new, and what blue feathers re- 
 mained were loose and ready to fall off. I did not 
 

 ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 327 
 
 remain long enough' on the fells this year to obtain 
 specimens myself to prove clearly how the autumn 
 change went on, but I hope to do so another 
 season. 
 
 To sum up all, however, my present opinion 
 with regard to the change of plumage in the 
 ptarmigan is this that they moult three times 
 between March and November ; and, although this 
 opinion is given advisedly, it is grounded wholly 
 on the results of my own experience and close 
 examination of many specimens. I have never 
 yet spoken with any one on the subject who 
 appeared more competent than myself to give an 
 opinion, and as for the descriptions which I have 
 read of the different stages of plumage in the 
 ptarmigan, they are all far too general to be of 
 the slightest assistance in determining a question 
 which is of so much interest to the naturalist. If, 
 however, at a future day I should see good reason 
 to change my opinion, I shall be too happy to 
 convict myself; for, as some old writer quaintly 
 observes, "No one need be ashamed of owning 
 that he was wrong, which is only saying, C I am 
 wiser to-day than I was yesterday.' J 
 
 Even in regard to the young birds of the year, 
 J have observed the new blue feathers shooting 
 out under the darker dress, as in the old ones ; 
 and if, as we have every reason to suppose, the 
 
328 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 change from the autumn dress* to the white winter 
 plumage is a moult, these young ptarmigan appear 
 to moult three times in less than four months. 
 
 The exact measurements of the Swedish ptar- 
 migan, taken carefully from fresh-killed specimens, 
 in Swedish measure (a mere trifle shorter than 
 the English) are these : Male, 14 to 14-J- in. long ; 
 20 in. breadth of wing ; f in. beak from forehead ; 
 Sin. wing from carpus ; 4| in. tail ; 1| in. tarsus ; 
 1 in. middle toe ; female half an inch shorter, and 
 the other measurements proportionately smaller. 
 
 The ptarmigan may truly be said to be a child 
 of snow, for you never meet with them off the 
 real fells, although I have occasionally flushed 
 them from the fell sides, just where the willow 
 bushes end. Their real home is the higher fell 
 tract, and in the middle of summer on their very 
 highest snow- clad summits. In the spring they 
 come down to the lower fells to breed, but you 
 never find them there in the end of summer. The 
 pairing season here appeared to begin early in 
 May, and lasted a fortnight or three weeks, and 
 during this time the hoarse laughing love-call of 
 the old male might be heard at very earliest dawn 
 on any of the fell tops. This is soon answered 
 by the finer "i-i ack i-i ack " of the female, 
 and the love chase commences. This is the time 
 when many are shot off, for they are now too en- 
 

 ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 329 
 
 grossed with each other to heed the shooter, who 
 lies behind a stone on the pairing ground, and 
 picks them off as he pleases. 
 
 Both the ptarmigan and willow grouse are 
 strictly monogamous. Some'naturalists appear to 
 have an idea that both, when pairing, have a kind 
 of " lek " or play, like the capercailzie and black- 
 cock, both of which birds are polygamous. I can 
 only say I never saw anything of the kind. The 
 ptarmigan, certainly, have their favourite pairing 
 grounds on the fells, and here the birds assemble 
 at daylight in the early spring, in small flocks, 
 but widely scattered all over the place. The old 
 males utter their peculiar love-call, which is an- 
 swered by the female, and they draw together ; 
 but although there are several males in the neigh- 
 bourhood, each one seems to have his particular 
 stand and his own favourite female, and if by 
 chance another male intrudes on his ground he 
 drives it off. But I firmly believe that one male 
 treads only one female. 
 
 I never could discover a playing place of the 
 willow grouse, nor do I believe any such existed 
 in the Quickiock forest. At early dawn the birds 
 were scattered all over the forest, and the hoarse 
 love-call of the males resounded on all sides. This 
 would soon be answered by a female, and the 
 couple would join. The willow grouse is easily 
 
330 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 brought within gun- shot by imitating the call 
 of the other sex. 
 
 As soon as the female willow grouse wants to 
 lay, she seems to be most anxious to get rid of 
 the company of the male, and you will see him 
 chasing her all over the forest, she all the while 
 trying to avoid his importunities. 
 
 Early in June the female commences to lay, 
 forming an artless nest on the bare stones, in the 
 heather, or under a small bush ; always, as far as I 
 could see, above the very top edge of the willow 
 region, but never on the snow fells. Here she 
 lays generally seven to eleven eggs, subject to 
 much variation in colour, but usually rusty yellow 
 covered all over with black or brown blotches and 
 spots heaped together. It is not easy to distin- 
 guish the egg of the ptarmigan from that of the 
 willow grouse by the colour, but the egg of the 
 ptarmigan is always a little the smallest, and more 
 pointed at both ends. I once found seventeen 
 eggs in a nest of the ptarmigan, and, if they were 
 the produce of two birds (which I doubt), only one 
 female was in the neighbourhood, and as she rose 
 from the eggs I shot her. You occasionally find 
 in the nest of the ptarmigan one small egg, 
 scarcely larger than a musket-ball. This the Laps 
 never take, for they fancy it is the egg of a snake I \ 
 
 As long as the female continues to sit, the old 
 
OX THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 331 
 
 male watches in the vicinity of the nest, like the 
 willow grouse ; but as soon as the young are 
 hatched off, he leaves them to the care of the 
 mother, and joining a lot more " bachelor friends," 
 they seek the tops of the highest fells (leaving the 
 female and young brood lower down in the fell 
 valleys). Here we used to find the old males in 
 small packs (I rarely saw more than nine together) 
 throughout the whole of July, generally basking 
 on the sunny sides of the fells on the bare patches 
 which the snow had left. They were then by no 
 means shy, especially if the day was hot and 
 damp, and the easiest birds in the world to find; 
 for as soon as the shooter enters their territory, 
 one or more would perch on a large boulder of 
 rock and commence a hoarse crow. This could 
 hardly be for the purpose of warning the others, 
 for they do not seem to rise at this challenge, only 
 to squat closer, and it is by no means difficult to 
 creep up to the sentinel himself and shoot him 
 from the perch. But whun the weather is bois- 
 terous they are the shyest of the shy, always rise 
 out of shot (and you cannot hear them crow), and 
 if they only get the wind in their tails they will 
 often take a flight of two English miles before 
 they drop. Early in August the young will be 
 strong flyers ; the old female then takes them 
 higher up on the fells, they are joined again by the 
 
332 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 old male, and the whole family keep together till 
 the autumn snow falls, when several families pack, 
 and large flocks are met with in the lower fell 
 tracts during the whole winter. 
 
 So beautifully has nature adapted the different 
 changes of colour in the ptarmigan to the season 
 and aspect of the landscape which surrounds them, 
 that of all birds I think they are the most difficult 
 to see on the ground, as Thompson prettily ob- 
 serves : " Of all British birds this is perhaps the 
 most interesting in consequence of the changes of 
 plumage, every one of them beautiful, through 
 which it passes. We hardly draw on the imagina- 
 tion by viewing its plumage as an exquisite minia- 
 ture of the seasonal changes which the mountain 
 undergoes a miniature, too, drawn by a hand that 
 never errs. 
 
 " In summer we look upon the beautiful mix- 
 ture of grey, brown, and black, as resembling the 
 three component parts of ordinary granite, fel- 
 spar, mica, and hornblend, among the masses of 
 which the ptarmigan generally resides. Late in 
 autumn, when snows begin to fall upon the lofty 
 summits, and partially cover the surface of the 
 rock, we find the bird pied with white, and in win- 
 ter, when they present a perfect chrysolite of snow, 
 it is almost wholly of the same pure colour." 
 
 I have marked young birds down to an inch on 
 

 ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 333 
 
 a bare fell, without a patch of covert, and although 
 they were squatting within ten yards of me, I have 
 had the greatest difficulty in seeing them ; and 
 truly do they need some protection, for although, 
 perhaps, the ptarmigan has less to fear from man 
 than any other game bird, it has, nevertheless, many 
 enemies the fell fox and the weasel creep upon 
 them when crouched on the ground, and the 
 gyr-falcon and peregrine strike them down with 
 unerring aim when in the air ; but so swift and 
 strong on the wing is the ptarmigan that in a fair 
 chase I have seen them distance the falcon. Al- 
 though they furnish food for falcons, weasels, 
 foxes, and owls (which swarm on these fells during 
 the summer), so prolific are they, and so wide and 
 inaccessible is the extent of barren country over 
 which they range, that their number on these fells 
 is incredible and never likely to diminish as long 
 as the fell tracts retain their original wild 
 character. 
 
 In the summer the food of the ptarmigan 
 seems to consist entirely of leaves, flowers, and 
 fruit of the fell shrubs. The young live much on 
 insects, and in the winter the frozen fruit of the 
 crowberry and cranberry afford them amply supply 
 of food, and there are always bare places, even on 
 the highest fells, from which the wind has blown 
 the snow. 
 
334 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 cc 
 
 The willow grouse (Lay opus subalpina, Miss. ; 
 skogs ripa," Sw. ; "riefsak," Lap.). Some 
 naturalists seem to have a faint opinion that the 
 willow grouse is nothing more than a variety of the 
 red grouse (Tetrao scoticus, Gould) ; but any one 
 who has had the least opportunity of studying the 
 habits of the two birds in a state of nature, will 
 at once scout such an idea, for, although there may 
 be a slight resemblance between the two in their 
 summer dress, there it ends ; and I perfectly agree 
 with Dr. Bree's remarks, in his " Birds of Europe," 
 " that its affinities are more with the ptarmigan 
 than the red grouse, but it is distinct from both." 
 That it certainly is ; for in its habits it resembles 
 neither. But even in the colouring there is one 
 material difference, between the willow grouse and 
 the red grouse, which would, in my opinion, alone 
 mark a distinct species. In the red grouse, the 
 wing primaries are always dusky brown; in the 
 willow grouse, at every season of the year, they 
 are pure white. 
 
 It is true that the seasonal change in the plu- 
 mage of the willow grouse may be owing to cli- 
 matic influence, but this is no reason why the wing 
 primaries should be white at all seasons, or that 
 the belly in the summer should be always so much 
 lighter than the back, in fact, often pure white. I 
 will now ask, as regards the habits of the two 
 

 ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OP LAPLAND. 335 
 
 birds, did any one ever see a red grouse perch in a 
 tree ? Did he ever find a nest in the forest ? or 
 did he ever know the red grouse even accidentally 
 to frequent the small birch, willow, or fir forests that 
 lie remote from the fells themselves ? In all these 
 particulars the willow grouse differ from the red 
 grouse, and in so great a degree that you never 
 by any chance (at least I never did) find them on 
 the open moors or fells, never higher up than the 
 willow and birch bushes afford them a good 
 shelter. And I may notice another striking dif- 
 ference in the habits of the two birds. I have 
 always in August and September found that the 
 red grouse are partial to dry situations, whereas at 
 this season of the year the willow grouse invariably 
 select the moistest places they can find; small 
 belts of willow bushes by the side of the forest 
 streams, often on wet woodland mosses, or 
 morasses, but never out of covert ; and I consider 
 their name of willow grouse to be most appro- 
 priate. It has been suggested that, if the willow 
 grouse were introduced into England, their colour 
 would gradually change, and they would become 
 more like the red grouse. This might or might 
 not follow, but I do not see that this fact would at 
 all prove the identity of the two birds, unless 
 indeed the willow grouse were also to change its 
 habits as well as its plumage in its new home, 
 
336 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 and leaving the shelter of the forest, at once take 
 to the open moors. But I feel certain in my own 
 mind that such would not be the case, for why do 
 they not leave the lower forests in this country, 
 and go higher up to the moors and fells which 
 border on them ? Or, why, on the contrary, do not 
 the red grouse of Scotland come down from the 
 moors into the lower forests ? 
 
 I see Dr. Blasius allows the willow grouse to 
 be a distinct species, but then he makes the British 
 red grouse to be nothing more than a variety of 
 the ptarmigan ; thus I consider upsetting the laws 
 of nature even in a still greater degree. 
 
 I wish, if we are not to consider that constant 
 and striking differences in the habits of life between 
 two birds of the same genus are not to justify us 
 in considering them as distinct species, some one 
 would just tell us in plain English what con- 
 stitutes the difference between a variety and a, 
 species. 
 
 Surely it is scarcely consistent in us to set 
 down the willow grouse as nothing more than a] 
 variety of the red grouse, or the red grouse as 
 only a variety of the ptarmigan, when we retain in 
 our Fauna as distinct species, the two nightingales, 
 the lesser white-throat, the willow warbler, the 
 pied wagtail, the grey-headed yellow wagtail, the 
 tree pipit, the short-toed lark, the fire-crested 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 337 
 
 wren, the lesser redpole, the tree sparrow, the 
 parrot-crossbill, and some other birds which I 
 could mention. In all those which I have named, 
 the differences existing between them and their 
 nearest relations in the same family are no more 
 striking than between the willow and the red 
 grouse, or the red grouse and the ptarmigan ; in 
 fact, in many, not nearly so striking, for their habits 
 in life are in almost every case the same. Much 
 as we may deprecate the foolish custom of manu- 
 facturing species, we should nevertheless be careful 
 how we fall into the opposite extreme. 
 
 Of all the northern forest game the willow 
 grouse is by far the most common ; and, as they 
 frequent the low forests of fir and birch at the 
 bottom of the fells, often close to the villages, these 
 birds, and not the ptarmigan, form the principal 
 food of the northern settlers. In the winter they 
 are met with (at least in the Quickiock district) 
 scattered all over the meadows and low grounds 
 wherever the willow or birch affords them shelter ; 
 but, as spring advances, they gradually draw up 
 again into the forests. The pairing season took 
 place about the same time as with the ptarmigan, 
 but the female appears to go to nest a little earlier, 
 for I took the first nest (with eight eggs) on May 
 28. The nest very artless and carelessly built 
 is always in the forest or under the willow bushes 
 
 z 
 
338 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 by the sides of the fells, never in the open ; the 
 eggs generally from eight to eleven ; and, as soon 
 as the young can fly, the old females take them up 
 higher on to the fell sides, but never above the 
 willow and birch region i.e., never on to the fells 
 themselves, although I have often found them in 
 the fell valleys in July, by the side of water-courses 
 where the willow luxuriates in rich profusion. 
 
 The food of the willow grouse during the sum- 
 mer consists almost entirely of the leaves of several 
 plants, especially of the lesser willow (Salix her- 
 bacea, Lin.), which covers all the low meadows 
 and marshy grounds at the bottom of the fells ; 
 the bleaberry (Vaccinium myrtillus, Lin.), and the 
 flowers and seed of the viviparous knot-grass 
 (Polygonum viviparium, Lin.), which is on this ac- 
 count called in Norway "rype gras;" during the 
 autumn their principal food consists of the berries 
 of the bleaberry, etc. ; and in the winter and spring 
 they seem entirely to live on the catkins of the 
 birch (both the dwarf and the common), and the 
 stalks of the bleaberry bushes. 
 
 I have killed the willow grouse on the sides of 
 the (Estmark fells, in about 60 N. lat., where they 
 are tolerably numerous, and this I take it is their 
 most southern limit in Sweden (the most southern 
 range of the ptarmigan in Sweden appears to be 
 about 62 N. lat.) 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 339 
 
 Although in Sweden the willow grouse has a 
 lower southern range than the ptarmigan, it is 
 confined entirely to the north of Europe, whereas 
 the ptarmigan has a much more southern European 
 range, being met with in many of the mountainous 
 districts in Switzerland, Savoy, etc. 
 
 Early in August they appeared again to come 
 lower down, and in the season when the young 
 birds were fit to shoot, I generally found them on 
 the small swamps in the forests, or in the bushes 
 round the little streams which intersect these 
 woods in every direction. In fact, it seems to me 
 that, in the summer, water is indispensable to the 
 Imbits of the willow grouse. The call-note of the 
 willow grouse is much louder and hoarser than 
 that of the ptarmigan, and resembles the sound 
 " ka-wau-ka-wau." In one material respect it 
 differs in habits from the ptarmigan ; for not only 
 does the male willow grouse watch his mate with 
 the greatest care during the period of incubation, 
 but when the brood is hatched off he never leaves 
 them, he is always with them ; and if by chance an 
 intruder comes upon the nest or young brood, he 
 bustles up, uttering his hoarse cackle, and if he is 
 not able to drive away the enemy, he tries every arti- 
 fice in his power to lure him from the spot. Beau- 
 tiful as it is to witness the strong feeling of love 
 which nature has implanted in the breasts of all 
 
340 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 the feathered race towards their helpless young, in 
 no one bird is it displayed more strongly than in 
 the willow grouse. I remarked that when the young 
 were just cheepers, we used to find the broods much 
 in the little foot-tracks that run through the forest ; 
 and one afternoon, in the very end of June, I came 
 through the forest in a " bee line " down to Quick- 
 iock from the fells, and without beating the woods, in 
 a distance of less than ten English miles my dog 
 sprang about twenty-five broods, and I don't be- 
 lieve that the same brood ever rose twice. This 
 will give some idea of their numbers in these 
 forests. 
 
 The willow grouse is subject to far less varia- 
 tion of plumage than the ptarmigan, for although 
 both sexes vary much in the shading of the colour- 
 ing, they have but two distinct dresses. The win- 
 ter dress is pure white, with fourteen black tail 
 feathers ; and the summer dress may be described 
 thus : Male, head and neck red-brown, often 
 chocolate, with a Hack chin ; body, black ground 
 covered with red-brown wavy lines ; belly, white. 
 Female, head, neck, breast, crown, and sides rusty 
 yellow, with black transverse bars ; back, shoulders, 
 rump, and the two middle tail feathers speckled 
 with rusty yellow transverse bars. The female 
 may be distinguished at a glance from the male by 
 the under tail- coverts, which are rusty yellow, with 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 341 
 
 black transverse bands ; in the male they are red- 
 brown, speckled with black, and only one bar in 
 front of the white tip. The young at first are red- 
 brown, speckled with black and white, primaries 
 brown-grey. In August, however, they much re- 
 semble the mother, for white wing feathers usurp 
 the place of the brown, and the black feathers ap- 
 pear. In this month the old birds also shed their 
 wing and tail feathers, and also their claws. At 
 all seasons in the old birds the wing primaries are 
 white, and the fourteen tail feathers black witli 
 white tips. Old Pennant seems to have had so; 
 idea that the willow grouse was distinct from the 
 ptarmigan. An old male willow grouse is a mag- 
 nificent bird in his summer dress, as he rises in the 
 forest, and goes away as straight and sharp as an 
 arrow, but is by no means a difficult bird to kill. 
 In the north tins bird is preferred to the ptarmi- 
 gan for the table, but I never could detect any dif- 
 ference when cooked, except that it is larger, 
 
 Nilsson says that both sexes moult in July and 
 August: and so they do as far as the wing and tail 
 feathers are concerned ; but although the body 
 colour appears to change in August, I do not think 
 it a regular moult. There is, however, not the 
 slightest doubt in my mind that the change from 
 the speckled summer dress to the white plumage 
 of winter is a true moult ; and as early as August 
 
342 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 16 I sliot an old male, on the back and rump of 
 which many of the white winter feathers were 
 appearing among the brown, and these were cer- 
 tainly new feathers. In the end of April they 
 began to assume the summer dress by a true moult , 
 which was complete by about the end of May, as 
 in the ptarmigan, the summer feathers always first 
 appear on the head and neck, and when these 
 parts are in full summer dress the body very 
 quickly changes colour. 
 
 Analogous to the change of plumage in both 
 the ptarmigan and willow grouse is the shedding 
 of the claws, which in winter are long, nearly 
 straight, concave underneath, and white; in the 
 summer much shorter, brown, and flat. This 
 takes place, at different times in different indivi- 
 duals, from the end of June to the middle of 
 August. Cabanis is of opinion that this happens 
 twice in the year ; Mewes, on the contrary, dis- 
 tinctly says that the claws are shed only once in the 
 year, and I agree with him. The new claws are at 
 first about 8mm. long. I have measured the claw 
 of a ptarmigan killed in December 21mm., and in 
 one which I shot on June 22, the claws (evidently 
 new ones) measured 10mm. This is doubtless 
 another of the wise provisions of nature to enable 
 these birds to scratch down to their food under the 
 snow. They appear to grow longer as the winter 
 

 ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 343 
 
 increases, and to shorten, probably by scratching 
 in the snow, towards summer ; but I have seen 
 them very long in the willow grouse in June, and I 
 always observe that the claws of the ptarmigan 
 which I shot about the same time were much 
 shorter. 
 
 I do not see any reason why willow grouse 
 should not thrive in Scotland as well as in Sweden 
 provided always, nevertheless, as the lawyers 
 say, that the vegetation at the foot of the fells is 
 the same. I think them much more likely to 
 
 wer than hazel grouse, and they would afford 
 much more real sport to the shooter; for when they 
 are sprung in the forest they never settle in a tree, 
 which the hazel grouse invariably do, but drop 
 
 in within a short distance. But there is one 
 remark I will make as regards the procuring of 
 living birds and animals from foreign countries. 
 If the Acclimatization Society are in earnest, their 
 only plan would be to send to those countries from 
 which they require specimens, proper men who 
 understand their business, to collect them. It is 
 all very well for amateurs to promise to procure 
 clutches of eggs and birds, etc., and perhaps one 
 out of ten will succeed ; but no dependence can be 
 placed upon a man unless it is made worth his 
 while, and unless he gives his whole and sole atten- 
 tion to it ; I know I always find in my collecting 
 
344 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND, 
 
 that amateurs promise, paid men perform. It 
 seems easy enough for any man who is residing in 
 a tract where the birds breed all round him, to 
 procure a clutch of eggs and send them away; 
 and so it would be, perhaps, in Britain, where no 
 man lives further than a few miles from a railway 
 station. But in these countries transport is not 
 so easy ; and although there is no trouble to pro- 
 cure the eggs, the trouble is to get them well to 
 England. 
 
 There is a great doubt in my mind whether 
 eggs sent over from this country would incubate 
 when they reached England. But I see that 
 Thompson, in his " Natural History of Ireland," 
 mentions the fact of eggs, which had been partly 
 incubated, hatching off after they had been taken 
 twelve hours from the nest, but not longer. There 
 are two birds in this country which many English 
 sportsmen are desirous of obtaining the willow 
 grouse and the hazel grouse. Why don't they sub- 
 scribe 100, and send over for a season a regular 
 gamekeeper who is used to the management and 
 rearing young birds ? He would have no trouble 
 to obtain what he wanted, and, doubtless, then the 
 affair would be managed, and a good breeding 
 stock would be obtained. 100 ought to pay all 
 expenses ; and what would this sum be when 
 divided among a dozen of our rich game preser- 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 345 
 
 vers ? Depend upon it that this is the only plan 
 to adopt. No one has a better chance of procur- 
 ing eggs and birds than myself; and, as I have 
 over and over again stated, I should be most will- 
 ing to help the Acclimatization Society as far as 
 possible, but my time is too much occupied, and I 
 will never undertake a thing unless I can carry it 
 through. Moreover, I am never at home in the 
 breeding season. One thing must be borne in mind, 
 that the willow grouse will never thrive in flat 
 forests away from the fells, for the low forests on 
 the sides and at the foot of the fells are as much 
 the true home of this bird as the snow-capped fells 
 are of the ptarmigan. As to the hazel grouse, 
 they come much further south away from the fells 
 than the willow grouse, although in the Quickiock 
 district they seem to frequent the same forests as 
 the willow grouse, but never so far up on the fell 
 sides ; but it is strange that although known in 
 Germany," the hazel grouse is a stranger in the 
 south of Sweden. I think one thing is pretty 
 clear, that young fir plantings are not suited to 
 the habits of the "hjerpe," but old fir forests, 
 in which there is much rotten timber and many 
 stony rises. 
 
 No disease appears as yet to have ever been 
 known among the northern grouse. 
 
 Although the willow grouse will occasionally 
 
346 A SPRING AND SUM.MEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 perch, I never saw the ptarmigan settle in a 
 tree. 
 
 In the winter the willow grouse pack, after the 
 manner of the ptarmigan, and they say that then 
 such flocks will sometimes settle in the birch-trees 
 as quite to whiten them. 
 
 "We now come to the Waders, and I may here 
 remark that I was greatly disappointed in the 
 country around Quickiock, for I never saw fewer 
 waders in any part of Sweden than here, and all 
 the rarest seemed to go right up on to the high 
 fell meadows to breed. The large valley of the 
 Tornea and Munio rivers is without doubt a better 
 district for waders than this. 
 
 The ring plover (Gharadrius hiaticula, Lin.; 
 "storre strandpipare," Sw. ; "bovidat," Lap.) 
 was not uncommon on the sides of the river just 
 when the ice went; but in the breeding season 
 they appeared to draw up on to the fells, and I 
 have seen them high up on the very edges of the 
 snow. 
 
 I never saw the little ring plover (Ch. minor, 
 Mey.) here, nor do I believe that it breeds further 
 north in Sweden than Wermland; but I often 
 obtain the nest on the shores of Lake Wenern. 
 
 The dotterel (Ch. morinellus, Lin.; " fell 
 pipare," Sw.; " lafol," Lap.). This is peculiarly 
 a fell bird, and next to the golden plover (Ch. 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 347 
 
 apricarius 9 Cnv.; "bitschus,"Lap.), wliicli swarmed 
 on all these fells, I think was one of the commonest 
 birds on our fells, and it is found as well on the 
 snow- covered tops as on the lower fells, but 
 always among the stones, never on the fell 
 meadows. They were by no means shy, especi- 
 ally in the breeding season, and their soft 
 whistling call-note, " kirley-kirlz," often betrayed 
 the locality of the nest, which is generally nothing 
 more than a little dry grass in a hole scraped on 
 the bare fell ; but once, and once only, I took a 
 nest made of fine dry grass and a few ptarmigan 
 feathers. I never found more than three eggs in 
 a nest, and, as I have taken these hard sat on, I 
 fancy three is the full number. We took our first 
 nest on June 7, and our last on June 28 ; but by 
 the middle of July many young were strong 
 flyers. I know no egg which is likely to be mis- 
 taken for that of the dotterel ground colour 
 dark stone, thickly blotched all over with black 
 patches. 
 
 I never could identify the grey plover (Ch. 
 Helveticus, Bon.) in this neighbourhood, although 
 I have good reason to believe that it breeds here. 
 I offered a great price to the Laps if they could 
 bring me the nest and bird of a plover with a 
 back toe, but I never had the luck to obtain it. 
 As a guide to the young naturalist, I may here 
 
348 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 notice that in the summer dress the grey plover 
 differs little or nothing from the golden, but the 
 small head will always distinguish the grey ployer 
 at all seasons. 
 
 I never met with the crane (Grus cinerea, 
 Bech.) in this district. 
 
 Both the curlew (Numenius arquata, Lin. ; 
 " stor spof," Sw.) and the whimbrel (N. phceopus, 
 Lath. ; " sma spof," Sw.) are met with here ; but 
 I never saw any other than the whimbrel, and this 
 bird was sparingly distributed over the lower fell 
 tracts. " Gutsch kastaf" is the Lap name for 
 both curlew and whimbrel. I never found more 
 than three eggs in the nest of the whimbrel. ^They 
 breed sparingly on our fells. 
 
 Not a single species of heron or stork appear 
 to come up here to breed. 
 
 That the bar-tailed godwit (Limosa rufa, 
 Briss. ; "rostrod lang nabba") breeds in this 
 neighbourhood is pretty certain, although I never 
 found the nest ; but I fancy that both the godwits, 
 although they may breed here and there in Lap- 
 land, breed principally more to the east. 
 
 Temminck's stint (Tringa TemmincJcii, Leisl. ; 
 "Temminck's strandvipa," Sw. ; " vizardalle," 
 Lap.) was rare in this district, and I only met 
 with two pair. The one I shot by the river-side 
 in the early spring, and the other with their nest 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 349 
 
 on a fell meadow, close to where I found the nest 
 of the broad-billed sandpiper. The nest was 
 placed on a tussock of rushy grass in a swampy- 
 part of the meadow, nothing more than a few bits 
 of dry grass. Eggs, four; very pyriform; 
 chocolate-brown covered with a deeper shade of 
 small fine spots all over. This stint does not 
 appear to be confined to the northern tracts of 
 Scandinavia, for I have taken the nest in Werm- 
 land. Strange to say that we none of us can find out 
 the breeding-place of the little stint (T. minuta, 
 Leisl.), nor have I ever seen a well-authenticated 
 egg of this bird. We meet with them not only on 
 all the Swedish coasts during the periods of 
 migration, but even occasionally inland. I fancy 
 their breeding haunts must be somewhere on the 
 northern coasts of Norway, for early in August 
 they are seen all along the Norwegian coast, and 
 often in considerable flocks. There is a great 
 resemblance between these two stints, but they 
 may be always known from each other by this 
 infallible mark : in Temminck's stint the shaft 
 of only the first wing primary is white, of all the 
 others the shafts are brown ; whereas in the little 
 stint the shafts of all the primaries are white in 
 the middle. 
 
 The dusky redshank (T. fuscus, Leisl.; "tscap- 
 pis tschoavtscho ") seems a stranger here, but 
 
350 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 breeds further up in the valley of the Munio, from 
 whence I have received eggs which are consider- 
 ably larger than those of the common redshank, 
 with somewhat the character of the great snipe's 
 
 egg- 
 
 The common sandpiper (Totanus liypoleucos, 
 
 Tern. ; " drill snappa," Sw.) was very common on 
 the lower rivers, but I never met with them on 
 the fells. I shot one specimen of the purple sand- 
 piper (T. maritima, Briin; " svart gra strand- 
 vipa," Sw.) early in the spring by the river side; 
 but, as I never saw another, I do not fancy that 
 these fells are the breeding place of this bird, 
 which are very common further north. The. red- 
 shank (T. calidris, Bech. ; "rodbent snappa," 
 Sw.) was very rare. The dunlin (Tringa alpina, 
 Lin.) I could never identify in this district ; and 
 the green sandpiper (Tot. ochropus, Tern.) is 
 certainly a stranger to the north of Scandinavia, 
 although I have received the four eggs of this bird 
 laid in a thrush's nest from as far north as Gefle. 
 It is a curious fact, and one which did not appear 
 to be known to any naturalist until I noticed it, 
 that the green sandpiper, unlike the rest of this 
 tribe, invariably, as far as I can see, lays its four 
 eggs in another bird's nest, generally that of a 
 jay or crow, often a mile from water, and 
 often twenty-five feet up in a fir tree. I never took 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. . 351 
 
 them on the ground, as noticed by all other natu- 
 ralists. 
 
 The ruff (Machetes pugnax, Cuv. ; " brushane," 
 Sw.) was very common on the fell meadows, and 
 early in July we used to shoot the males with very 
 fine ruffs on them. 
 
 But the finest and perhaps one of the com- 
 monest of our waders here was the greenshank (Tot 
 glottis, Bech. ; " glut ten," Sw. ; "vikkla," Lap.), 
 which came up here among the earliest in the spring, 
 and left certainly the earliest in the autumn. As I 
 had now a good opportunity of studying the habits 
 of this bird in the breeding season, I was much 
 struck with its resemblance to the green sand- 
 piper. The wild nature of the bird, its loud shrill 
 cry, " chee-wheet, chee-wheet," as it dashes 
 through the air with the speed of an arrow, and 
 its partiality for woodland lakes and streams, all 
 prove that it is more closely allied to the green 
 sandpiper than any other of the genus, and, save 
 that I always took the eggs from the ground, the 
 habits of the one bird seemed exactly to resemble 
 those of the other. The eggs of the greenshank 
 are often laid far away from water. I took a nest 
 once upon a stony rise right in an open forest, 
 about one hundred yards from a little beck, laid 
 on a thin layer of leaves. The eggs, always four 
 in number, are very large, pyriform; ground 
 
352 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 colour stone yellow-green, dashed all over with 
 dark brown and pale purple-grey, especially at the 
 thick end. I observed as soon as the young were 
 hatched otV, the old birds wonld lead them down 
 to some grassy swamp in the forest, and I have 
 met with three or four families in the same spot. 
 It is now that the wild cry of this bird is heard to 
 perfect ion if you enter the swamp with a dog; and 
 it is a pleasing sight to see how little fear the old 
 birds display in endeavouring to beat the intruder 
 from the spot. No trying to allure him away by 
 sham pretences, as the lapwing and many other 
 birds do, but a downright courageous attack, 
 which never ceases till the dog is fairly beaten^off. 
 I have often seen the greenshank settle in a tree. 
 
 The wood sandpiper (Totanu* <jl<ircola, Tern.; 
 "gronbent snappa," Sw.; "utsea tschoavtscho," 
 Lap.) was very common here; and far different are 
 the quiet unobtrusive habits of this little bird 
 during* the breeding season, to the boisterous, 
 noisy behaviour of its congener, the green sand- 
 piper. Early in the summer the wood sandpiper 
 has a new pretty little song, which it trills out 
 when seated on a tussock of grass or when 
 rising in the air in the vicinity of the nest. I 
 have much oftener seen this bird seated on a tree 
 or a rail than the green sandpiper, although that 
 bird will occasionally perch. 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLO^V Oi - I.AI'LAND. 
 
 Every endeavour to procure well-authenticated 
 eggs of the knot (Tringa Canutm, Lin.), the 
 curlew sandpiper (T. 8ubf.ir</H'if*i, Tern.), or the 
 sanderling (Galiibris arenaria, Leach), in Scandi- 
 navia have entirely failed; although I feel pretty 
 certain that one or other of them breed in some 
 of the secluded fell tracts, for I have shot both the 
 knot and pigmy curlew in full summer dress on 
 the coast of Skane as early as the first week in 
 August. 
 
 As I before observed, this is a very bad district 
 for the snipes. The only nest I obtained was that 
 of the common snipe (Scolop > <fnllui<i'jo, Lin.; 
 "makkastak," Lap. ; " enkel becassen," Sw.). I 
 killed one single example of the double snip* 
 //'"./'>r, Gm. ; " dubbel becassen," Sw.) in the 
 spring, and, strange to say, I flushed it in a dry 
 open fir wood, far away from any water. This 
 was the only specimen I saw, and I never met 
 with the jack snipe (S. fjnliuiula, Lin.) in this 
 district. 
 
 None of the rails or crakes appear to come so 
 far north. 
 
 Of the phalaropes, I could never detect the 
 grey phalarope (Phal. plati/rhinrhus, Tern.) in 
 this district ; but the little red-necked phalarope (P. 
 hypcrboreus, Lath. ; "sma nabbad sunsnappa," Sw.; 
 "svapalas," Lap.) was very common in the higher 
 
 A A 
 
354 A SPEING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 fell meadows. It is curious to watch these little 
 birds on a summer evening, in small companies of 
 six or eight, chasing each other over a fell lake, into 
 which they would suddenly drop, and swim over 
 its surface, ducking, diving, flapping their little 
 wings, evidently in high enjoyment. We always 
 used to find the eggs close by the margin of the 
 water ; and, like all the small waders, the female 
 never rises from the eggs until she is nearly trod 
 upon. The difference in length between the two 
 species (nearly two inches), and the different 
 shape of the beak, will at once distinguish the 
 two phalaropes. 
 
 The broad-billed sandpiper (Tringa platy- 
 rhincha, Tern.; "bred nabbad strandvipa," Sw.) 
 Till within the last few years, this sandpiper 
 appears to have been entirely overlooked in 
 Sweden, but I do not think it is so very rare. 
 Twelve years ago I shot three specimens in 
 August, in the very south of Sweden; since then 
 I have shot them in Wermland, and now I have 
 taken the nest in Lulea Lapland. Of all the sand- 
 pipers, this certainly is the most unobtrusive and 
 shyest in its habits; and its custom of creeping 
 among the grass like a little mouse, causes it 
 to be very seldom seen. When flushed, which is 
 never until you nearly tread upon it, it rises with a 
 faint single call-note, flies for a very little distance. 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 355 
 
 then suddenly drops, and it is next to impossible 
 to get it up a second time without a dog. I only 
 found one nest of this sandpiper. It was in a 
 high fell meadow, where I obtained so many of 
 the Lap buntings, and I shot both old birds. 
 The eggs were four, very pyriform ; ground colour 
 grey-brown, covered all over with minute spots of 
 light umber-brown, nearly hiding the ground 
 colour; size, 1 in. by | in. The broad-billed 
 sandpiper may, however, be considered as among 
 our rarer sandpipers, and I can never account 
 for the fact of some of our sandpipers (the whole 
 of which class lay the same number of eggs) being 
 so much rarer than the others. 
 
 I have seen the common tern (Sterna hirundo, 
 Lin.; "fisk tarna," Sw.) and the common gull 
 (Larus canus, Lin. ; " fisk mase," Sw.), both at 
 Quickiock, the latter high up over the fell lakes ; 
 and I shot one specimen of the lesser black-backed 
 gull (L. fascus, Lin. ; " sill mase," Sw.), flying 
 over the Tana river; but they were all three rare, 
 and, except Buffon's skua (of which more here- 
 after), these were the only species of this family I 
 saw in this neighbourhood. 
 
 Buffon's skua (Lestris Buffonii, Boie; "skaiti," 
 " haskil," Lap; " fell labbe," Sw.). Owing, as it 
 was supposed up here (but this was not my 
 opinion) to the quantity of lemming which 
 
356 A SFRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 swarmed on these fells this summer, the Buffon's 
 Bkua was unusually numerous in this neighbour- 
 hood, and from first to last I obtained more than 
 thirty specimens of old birds, besides many eggs, 
 and some young. But from all I could hear, this 
 was a very unusual occurrence, and years may 
 elapse before they will appear again in such num- 
 bers on these fells, although never a year passes 
 without some being seen. It appears, therefore, 
 that the northern stretch of this large fell range 
 is the summer home of this skua, which in winter 
 is occasionally met with as far south as the British 
 Channel. I cannot hear of their breeding, how- 
 ever, further south than "Peleekaisin," perhaps 
 100 miles south of Quickiock. All the Laps with 
 whom I spoke were well acquainted with this bird. 
 We got our first nest on the 3rd of June, and con- 
 tinued to take fresh eggs until the end of the 
 month. I myself never but in one instance saw 
 more than two eggs in a nest. Once I obtained 
 three ; and as I have taken a single egg from a 
 nest hard sat on, it appears that they do not 
 always lay two, which, however, we may take to 
 b-3 the general number. The nest is nothing more 
 than a few pieces of dried hay laid in a hole 
 scratched in the ground, always in the vicinity of 
 water, and I never saw it on a real snow fell. 
 Although these birds live in colonies, you do not 
 
ON THE OBNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 357 
 
 find the nests close together. None breed close 
 to Quickiock, but on the fells about thirty miles to 
 the west they breed in great quantities. No bird 
 is more tame and fearless than this skua during 
 the time they have eggs, for they come sailing 
 close over your head when searching for the nest, 
 performing the most beautiful airy gyrations, their 
 long sharp wings and pointed tail giving them a 
 singular and pretty appearance when in the air. 
 Their cry is a loud dismal shriek " i-i-i-ah, je-ah, 
 je-oh, je-oh ! " and might be heard day and night 
 over their breeding-place. But as soon as the 
 young were hatched off, their nature seemed to be 
 entirely changed, and then they never approach 
 within gun-shot, but wisely do not betray the 
 proximity of the young (which always manage to 
 hide themselves very cleverly) by any gestures of 
 anxiety. 
 
 Of all the specimens which I opened, in the 
 inside of one alone did I ever see the remains of a 
 fell lemming, and in only one other were there the re- 
 mains of a small mouse. Their principal food appears 
 to be the common crowberry (Ihnpetrum nigriiiii), 
 a large beetle, and small Crustacea. I never saw 
 anything except crowberries in the inside of the 
 young ones. The Laps have an idea that they will 
 kill and eat the young ptarmigan. I have certainly 
 seen a skua chase an old ptarmigan, but I fancy 
 
358 A SPUING AND SUMMER IX LAPLAND. 
 
 this was more from wantonness than anything else. 
 I could scarcely distinguish the male from the 
 female by the plumage. In one example the long 
 middle tail feathers measured 13 inches, and ex- 
 tended 9 inches beyond the rest. Much confusion 
 has existed respecting the different members of 
 this group, and I believe it is due to the assiduity 
 of Bonaparte that much of this mystery is cleared 
 up, and that this skua is identified as a distinct 
 species. Perhaps no class of birds are subject to 
 so many changes in plumage, owing to age, and 
 different shades even at the same season of the 
 year, as the skuas ; and I cannot help here quoting 
 "Wilson's very excellent remarks on this subject : 
 " The changes of plumage to which birds of this 
 genus are subject have tended not a little to con- 
 found the naturalist; and a considerable collision 
 of opinion, arising from an imperfect acquaintance 
 with the living subject, has been the result. To 
 investigate thoroughly their history it is obviously 
 necessary that the ornithologist should frequently 
 explore their natural haunts ; and to determine the 
 species of occasional or periodical visitors, an 
 accurate comparative examination of many speci- 
 mens, alive or recently killed, is indispensable. Less 
 confusion would arise among authors if they would 
 occasionally abandon their accustomed walks, their 
 studies, and their museums, and seeJc correct Icnow- 
 
.ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 359 
 
 ledge in the only place icliere it is to be obtained 
 in the grand temple of nat-we" I cordially agree 
 with this latter remark of Wilson's. The young 
 that I killed much resembled in plumage the 
 young of the common skua (L. cattaractes, 111.); 
 the tail was perfectly green, no one feather longer 
 than the others. 
 
 On carefully comparing specimens of the eggs 
 of Buffon's skua with those of Richardson's skua 
 (L. Richardsoni, Sw.) I could see no very apparent 
 difference in the size. Those of Buffon's skua 
 may perhaps be a 1 rifle the smaller, but they vary 
 in size, and I have seen them quite as big as those 
 of Richardson's skua; while in one nest which I 
 took, the two eggs were at least one-third smaller 
 than any I had ever seen. One thing I remarked, 
 that the egg of Buffon's skua is generally thicker 
 and blunter at the large end than Richardson's. 
 As to colour it is much the same in both, and 
 subject to the same variations ; but the oologist 
 should be very careful how he admits the egg of 
 Buffon's skua into his collection without a careful 
 identification. 
 
 I could never detect the pomarine skua 
 (L. pomarina, Tern.; " ave haskil," Lap.) breeding 
 in this district. But many of the Norwegian Laps 
 knew and described the bird well, and it is my 
 opinion that this species breeds more on the north- 
 
360 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 west coast of Norway, and does not come so far 
 inland as Buff on' s skua. 
 
 I have, I believe, an authentic egg of the 
 pomarine skua in my collection obtained from 
 Greenland, and this is more pointed at the smaller 
 end than the egg of any other skua I ever saw. It 
 exactly agrees in shape with Mr. A. Newton's 
 coloured figure in the Proceedings of the Zoological 
 Society, and perhaps this pointed shape is a 
 characteristic of this egg. 
 
 The wild swan (Cygnus musicus, Tern. ; " vild 
 svan," Sw., "neift scha," Lap.) I never saw the 
 wild swan in the vicinity of Quickiock, but I ob- 
 tained two full nests from lockinock, the one con- 
 taining seven, the other five eggs. They appear 
 never to go right up on to the snow fells, but to 
 breed in the inland lakes that he in the meadows 
 at their feet. 
 
 The bean goose (Anser segetum, Gm. ; " skogs 
 gas," Sw., " tschuonga," Lap.) I never was able 
 to find the nest of this goose, and the only egg 
 which I obtained I took out of an old female which 
 I shot down at Quickiock in the end of May. But 
 this goose does breed here, and, unlike the fell 
 goose next described, appears never to go up on 
 to the high fells, but to breed in the wood lakes, 
 whence its Swedish name of " skogs gas," or 
 wood-goose. The egg which I obtained was 
 
ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 361 
 
 just ready for laying, pure chalk white, 3J in. 
 by 2J in. 
 
 The little white-fronted goose (A. minutiix, 
 Naum. ; "fell gas," Sw. ; "kasak," Lap.) This 
 little goose, which appears to be a distinct species 
 from the British white-fronted goose (A. albifrons, 
 Bechst.), which latter bird, however, Nilsson in- 
 cludes in the Swedish fauna, giving it the Lap 
 name of "kasak," and, moreover, telling us that 
 it is the common fell goose of Sweden. Here he 
 certainly is wrong, for I never could meet with the 
 common white-fronted goose in Sweden; and I 
 believe it is very rare even up at the North Cape. 
 The Laps all have a name for the mumtus but not 
 for albifi'unx. I believe there has been some con- 
 fusion regarding the Latin synonyms of these two 
 birds, and I should certainly always recommend 
 the common white-fronted goose to be called the 
 Anser albifrons (Bechst.), and the lesser white- 
 fronted goose the Anser minutus (Naum.). It is 
 easily distinguished from the common white- 
 fronted goose by its smaller size, measuring 
 scarcely 22 in. ; by the much smaller beak, and 
 especially that the lamellae in the beak, which, in 
 A. albifrons are plainly to be seen along the whole 
 mandible, in the A. minutus are not visible. The 
 only species which I met with at Quickiock were 
 these small geese (A. minutus, Naum.), and I 
 
362 A SPEING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 could never near that any geese bred here besides 
 this and the bean goose. Although I never took 
 the nest myself, it was certain they bred on the 
 fells, for any night when we were camping out, 
 we could hear the cry of this goose, which much 
 resembles its Lap name "kasak, kasak," appa- 
 rently from the highest snow-capped fells ; from 
 whence I infer they breed high up on the fells, as 
 we never saw them in the fell meadows. The egg, 
 which I obtained through the kindness of Mr. 
 Alfred Newton, from the Munioniska district, is 
 more ivory white than that of the brent goose (A. 
 lernicla, I]!.), which I have received both from 
 Greenland and Spitzbergen, being about 2J in. by 
 11 in. 
 
 The grey goose (A. cinereus, Mey.) does not 
 appear to breed here ; and I believe both the 
 brent goose and the bernicle (A. leucopsis, Bechst.) 
 pass over Scandinavia to breed either in . Spitz- 
 bergen or East Finland; at least I could not 
 hear of any black-beaked goose having been yet 
 detected breeding in Lapland. 
 
 The common wild duck (Anas boschas, Lin. ; 
 "gras and," Sw. ; "dorsa," Lap.) is one of the 
 rarest in the district, and I don't believe I ever 
 saw more than three pair here. They call it here 
 the "is and," or ice-duck, because they usually 
 make their appearance early, before the ice has 
 
.ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 363 
 
 left the river. This egg was brought to me as a 
 great rarity, and the boy who took the nest wanted 
 double the price for it than for that of any other 
 duck. 
 
 The teal (A. crecca, Lin.; "krick and," Sw. ; 
 "schik-sa," Lap.) was tolerably common. 
 
 The shoveller (A. clypeata, Lin. ; " sked and," 
 Sw.) is said to have been once or twice killed here, 
 although I never saw it. 
 
 The widgeon (A. Penelope, Lin. ; "bias and," 
 Sw. ; " snartal " Lap.) was the commonest of all 
 the ducks here ; and, perhaps, next to this 
 
 The pintail (A ///>////, Lin. ; " syert and/' Sw. ; 
 " vuou asch," Lap.) I always found the nest of 
 the pintail in the small willow plantations that 
 skirt the foot of the fells. It is an early breeder ; 
 the first nest I obtained on June 4. The first nest 
 of the widgeon, however, on May 29. The egg of 
 the pintail much resembles that of the long- tailed 
 duck, both being of a dark clay colour ; but as 
 they breed at different seasons, and in such very 
 different localities, there is no fear of ever con- 
 founding the nests of the two. 
 
 All these species breed in the lowlands, and 
 I never recollect seeing one in any of the fell 
 meadows. 
 
 Of the diving ducks, first on my list must 
 stand 
 
364 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 The golden eye (A. clangula, Lin. ; "knip and," 
 Sw.; " ts choadge," Lap.); and this was, perhaps, 
 as common as any duck here. I never took the 
 nest of the golden eye from the ground, always in 
 "holkar" or tubs set up in trees, or in hollow 
 trees themselves. The egg of the golden eye 
 varies very much in colour and size ; and it is 
 remarked here, by the old settlers, who watch the 
 habits of this bird closely, for its eggs afford them 
 a good supply of food, that the old birds always lay 
 the fewest, finest, and largest eggs (and this, I 
 think, holds good with most birds). An old golden 
 eye, they say, will rarely lay more than five eggs, 
 whereas a young bird will lay as many as fifteen. 
 When fresh taken, I think the egg of the golden 
 eye one of the handsomest of all European ducks' 
 eggs. 
 
 The tufted duck (A. fuligula, Lin. ; "viggen," 
 Sw. ; "lilla lorte," Lap.), although I never saw 
 it here, is said occasionally to breed in this neigh- 
 bourhootj ; but local names puzzle one, and in this 
 district they call two species of duck " viggen ;" 
 for instance, the tufted duck is the " sma viggen ;" 
 the scaup the " stor viggen," or large viggen. 
 
 The scaup (A. marila, Lin. ; " hvit buk," Sw. ; 
 or white belly; "fjeltak," Lap.) was not uncom- 
 mon, and I have met with them breeding both in 
 the low grounds and on the fell meadows. The 
 
ON THE ORNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 365 
 
 egg of the scaup resembles that of the pintail in 
 colour, but is larger and thicker, measuring 2 1 
 in. by 1^ in. 
 
 The common scoter (A. nigra, Lin. ; " svarta," 
 Sw. ; " storra sorto," Lap.), (so named from its 
 wholly black colour) is commoner than the velvet 
 scoter, and always, as far as I could see, laid its 
 eggs in the low grounds. The egg of the scoter 
 is deep yellow-brown, 2| in. by If in. 
 
 The velvet scoter (A. fusca, Lin.; "sjo orre," 
 S\v. and Lap., or the blackcock; "kolska," Fin.) 
 (from the white speculum on the wing, which 
 resembles that of an " orre " or blackcock). Con- 
 trary to the last, they say this duck leaves the 
 lowlands, and retires to breed on the fell lakes ; 
 and, although I was never able to find the nest 
 myself, I often used to see the birds on the small 
 fell lakes, evidently breeding. The egg of the 
 velvet scoter, which I received from Munioniska, 
 has an ivory tinge much clearer than that of the 
 common bird 2J by 2 in. 
 
 
 
 The long-tailed duck (A. glaririUx, Lin. ; 
 "alfogel," Sw. ; " hanga," Lap.) made their 
 appearance on the Tana Eiver towards the 
 middle of May, and after remaining there a short 
 time, they retired up to the fell lakes to breed. 
 Before breeding, we always saw them in small 
 flocks ; and I think of all ducks these are the 
 
366 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 most restless, for they are never still, but con- 
 tinually chasing each other about, uttering a pleas- 
 ing note, which Mis son likens to the tone of a 
 clarionet " a agleck, a agleck." The only nest 
 which I obtained of this bird was on the same fell 
 meadow where the Lap buntings bred. I was 
 walking down a narrow trackway by the side of a 
 fell lake, and I nearly trod upon the old female, 
 which was sitting on her nest, right in my very 
 path. Although her head was turned towards 
 me, she never attempted to rise, and I caught her 
 on the nest. This was on the night of June 27. 
 The nest contained seven fresh eggs, in colour 
 resembling those of the pintail, but a little smaller. 
 On the next morning, I saw two young broods of 
 this duck on the water, apparently *a few days 
 old. During the breeding season the old males 
 appear to leave the - females, and congregate in 
 small flocks ; and even in the end of June we 
 used to see occasionally six to eight males on the 
 river down at Quickiock. 
 
 The goosander (Mergus Merganser, Lin. ; " stor 
 skrake," Sw. ; " gussagoalse," Lap.) was not nearly 
 so common as the merganser ; and I used to ob- 
 serve that they much frequented the streams at the 
 bottom of the waterfalls. The only two nests I 
 obtained of the goosander were both on the bare 
 ground. The egg may be distinguished from that 
 
ON THE OENITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 367 
 
 of the merganser, which it rather resembles, by its 
 larger size (at least, it is considerably thicker), by 
 its clearer colour, and by its peculiar shape, being 
 pointed alike at both ends. 
 
 The red-breasted merganser (M. serrator, Lin.; 
 " sma skrake," Sw. ; " vuofta goalse," Lap.). On 
 our journey up we saw a merganser on April 14, 
 in the open water at a waterfall in a river over 
 which we passed. This bird was far commoner 
 than the last. All the eggs which we obtained 
 were taken on the ground. 
 
 The egg of the smew is very rare in the north. 
 I may mention that one of the late Mr. Wooley's 
 best collectors has informed me that in ten years' 
 collecting, in the Munio district, he has only suc- 
 ceeded in obtaining eight eggs of the smew. It 
 is described as breeding in holes, and the egg is 
 so like that of the widgeon, that the only way of 
 detecting the difference is by examining the tex- 
 ture of the shells under a microscope. 
 
 In vain did I make the most diligent inquiries 
 after the smew (M. Albellus, Lin. ; " sal skrake/' 
 Sw.) ; I never could detect it breeding here. 
 The settlers, however, certainly had a confused 
 notion that such a bird is occasionally seen on 
 these waters, but I fancy they confounded it with 
 the red-necked grebe (Podiceps rubricollis, Lath. ; 
 "gra strupig dopping," Sw.), which bird breeds 
 
368 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 sparingly as far north as this, and I obtained one 
 nest with six eggs. I fancy this grebe must have 
 a more extended range in Scandinavia than any 
 other of the tribe, for I never heard of any other 
 grebe being much within Lapland ; and it is only of 
 late years that this bird has been detected breeding 
 so far north. 
 
 Both the black- throated diver (Colymbus arcti- 
 cus, Lin. ; "Dofta stor lorn "), and the red- throated 
 diver (C. septentrionalis; "sma lorn; 5 ' "gakkur," 
 Lap.) were common up here, and I fancy that the 
 black-throated went further up on the fells than the 
 other. And these conclude my list of the birds 
 which I am certain are met with in the Quickiock 
 district, of which, as a reference for the naturalist, 
 I add a list, affixing an asterisk to those whose 
 eggs I obtained. There may of course be others 
 which I overlooked, but certainly not many : 
 
 Norwegian jer falcon* Hawk owl* 
 
 Peregrine Tengmalm's owl* 
 
 Merlin* Lesser European sparrow owl 
 
 Kestrel* Short-eared owl* 
 
 Sparrow hawk* Great shrike* 
 
 Goshawk Cuckoo 
 
 Golden eagle Great black woodpecker* 
 
 White-tailed eagle Three-toed woodpecker* 
 
 Osprey* Little spotted woodpecker* 
 
 Rough-legged buzzard* Great spotted woodpecker 
 
 Snowy owl* Raven 
 
 Eagle owl Rook 
 
ON THE OKNITHOLOGY OF LAPLAND. 
 
 369 
 
 Hooded crow 
 
 Siberian jay* 
 
 Starling 
 
 Creeper 
 
 Bohemian waxwing* 
 
 Swift 
 
 Swallow 
 
 Martin 
 
 Bank martin 
 
 Pied flycatcher* 
 
 Common flycatcher 
 
 Common thrush* 
 
 Missel thrush* 
 
 Ring ouzel* 
 
 Fieldfare* 
 
 Redwing* 
 
 Water ouzel* 
 
 \Vlieatear* 
 
 Whinchat* 
 
 Garden warbler* 
 
 Willow warbler* 
 
 Chiff chaff* 
 
 Redstart* 
 
 Hedge sparrow* 
 
 Blue-throated warbler* 
 
 White wagtail* 
 
 Yellow wagtail* 
 
 Meadow pipit* 
 
 Tree pipit 
 
 Siberian tit* 
 
 Marsh tit* 
 
 Skylark 
 
 Shore lark 
 
 Yellow bunting* 
 
 Black -headed bunting* 
 
 Snow bunting 
 
 Lap bunting* 
 
 Ortolan bunting* 
 
 Chaffinch* 
 
 Brambling* 
 
 Mealy redpole* 
 
 Common linnet 
 
 Bullfinch* 
 
 Crossbill 
 
 Pine grosbeak* 
 
 Capercailzie* 
 
 Hazel grouse* 
 
 Ptarmigan* 
 
 Willow grouse* 
 
 Ring plover* 
 
 Dotterel* 
 
 Golden plover* 
 
 Whimbrel* 
 
 Temininck's stint* 
 
 Redshank 
 
 Ruff* 
 
 Common sandpiper* 
 
 Wood sandpiper* 
 
 Broad-billed sandpiper* 
 
 Greenshank* 
 
 Double snipe 
 
 Common snipe 
 
 Red-necked phalarope* 
 
 Common tern 
 
 Common gull 
 
 Lesser black-backed gull 
 
 Bufibn's skua* 
 
 Wild swan* 
 
 Bean goose* 
 
 Lesser white-fronted goose 
 
 Common wild duck* 
 
 Teal* 
 
 Widgeon* 
 
 Pintail* 
 
 B B 
 
370 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 Golden eye* Goosander* 
 
 Scaup* Merganser* 
 
 Common scoter* Red-necked grebe* 
 
 Velvet scoter Black-throated diver* 
 
 Long-tailed duck* Red-throated diver* 
 
 Considering it was my first season, and I knew 
 nothing of the locality or fauna of the district, I 
 was very well satisfied with what I saw and ob- 
 tained at Quickiock. But if I spend another 
 season there, which I hope I shall, I trust to do 
 far better, especially in eggs. I will obtain much 
 more assistance, and I will take up a small tent 
 and camp on the fells during the whole month of 
 June, for it is impossible to work these fells 
 thoroughly if you have to bear up a day or two's 
 provisions, and keep going backwards and for- 
 wards to and from the village. 
 
CHAPTER X. 
 
 A CHAPTER ON THE ORNITHOLOGY AROUND VARDOL, 
 
 IN EAST FINLAND, LYING CONTIGUOUS TO 
 
 THE NORTH CAPE. 
 
 FROM Quickiock to the North. Cape, as the crow 
 flies, will be about four degrees, or 240 English 
 miles ; and the wild, barren tracts lying on either 
 side of the great Tornea river, which enters the 
 Bothnia at Tornea, or the great Tana river, which 
 flows into the Polar Ocean at Tana fjord, a little 
 to the east of the North Cape, are probably richer 
 in the rare ducks and waders during the summer 
 than any other portion of the European continent. 
 I have already noticed all the birds which I 
 met with in the Quickiock district, and a list of 
 the birds which are found in the tracts lying 
 between this place and the North Cape will render 
 my notes on the ornithology of Lapland complete 
 and very useful to the naturalist who studies that 
 
372 A SPRING AND STIMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 most interesting subject, the geographical distri- 
 bution of species. Of course, from my own 
 personal observation, I can say nothing of the 
 fauna north of Quickiock ; but the following notes 
 on the ornithology of the country around Yardol, 
 by the Rev. C. Sommerfeet, for the last ten years 
 priest in the parish of Nasby, in the Yaranger fjord, 
 a keen collector and an excellent ornithologist, 
 may be safely relied upon as being correct. 
 
 I may, however, notice that four of the rarest 
 species, such as the waxwing, pine grosbeak, and 
 some of the rarer waders, do not appear to go up 
 so far, but their principal breeding localities seem 
 to be more in the valley of the Munio and around 
 Enara, in East Finland. Still, from its contiguity 
 to the fells, I do not think that any station in 
 Lapland for the general collector beats Quickiock. 
 The only fault which I find with the place is 
 that it is rather the fashion here to visit it in the 
 summer, and consequently wages and all things 
 are dearer than in any other part of Lapland. 
 
 The coasts of East Finmark are washed by the 
 Polar Sea, which encroaches upon the land by 
 many " fjords," or bays, of which the largest 
 are Laxe fjord and Tana fjord on the north, 
 and Yaranger fjord on the east. The most 
 northerly part of East Finmark consists of two 
 islands the one north of Hops and Eids fjords, 
 
THE ORNITHOLOGY AROUND VARDOL. 378 
 
 the most northerly point of which is Nord Kyn ; 
 the other, Varanger Naes, surrounded by Tana 
 fjord, Tana river, and Varanger fjord, on the east 
 point of which lies Wardoe, the most northerly 
 town or village in Europe. These large islands, 
 and a great part of the " Fast" land which lies con- 
 tiguous to Hops and Eids fjords, consist of a 
 tolerably flat table-land dotted with higher 
 mountains, having on its surface long stretches 
 of shingle and gravel, without the least signs 
 of vegetation, not even lichens, although on 
 the snow mosses which lie here throughout the 
 whole year we find the so-called "red snow" 
 (which singular phenomenon in nature is at- 
 tributed by the celebrated Swedish professor, 
 Agardth, to the agency of a species of algse 
 (Protococcus nivalis, Grev.), and of which Berkeley, 
 in his "Introduction to Cryptogamic Botany," 
 observes " In the very confines of the order, we 
 thus become acquainted with the striking resem- 
 blances which are exhibited by certain states of 
 algae and infusoria resemblances which are so 
 close as to be perfectly convincing that we must 
 greatly modify our notions of the distinctness of 
 animal and vegetable life if we wish them to agree 
 with fact, and not with mere arbitrary theories." 
 
 On this table-land we find large mosses, or 
 morasses, partly flat and even, partly filled up 
 
374 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 with greater or smaller hillocks of turf, with, deep 
 holes of black mud between them. This flat is 
 divided by many rivers, the banks of which are 
 fringed with birch and willow, while in the meadows 
 we find a far richer vegetation of Alpine flora than 
 we should have supposed. These rivers have their 
 rise from the fell lakes, of which there are many 
 of a tolerable size i.e., "jeris jaure" ("jaure" 
 is the Lap. term for a lake), and "naste jaure." In 
 most of these lakes we find fish, Crustacea, and the 
 larva of insects (probably of mosquitoes), so that 
 both the water-fowl and waders here find a rich 
 supply of food. 
 
 In this, the wildest and barrenest tract of East 
 Finmark, the gyr-falcon, the snowy owl, the snow 
 bunting, the wheatear, the purple sandpiper, one 
 or other of the skuas, the godwits, gulls, cor- 
 morants, guillemots, razorbills, oyster-catchers, 
 Arctic terns, the ring dotterel, Temminck's stint, 
 and the rock pipit, breed ; while further inland 
 we find in the summer the fieldfare, redwing, 
 shore lark, merlin, greenshank, wood sandpiper, 
 dunlin, and some of the aucks. 
 
 Further south we also meet with a flat, deso- 
 late tract, but not nearly so wild and barren as 
 this, for here we have lichens and grass, 
 plantations of birch and willow, not only along 
 the sides of the rivers, but even in the meadows, 
 
THE OENITHOLOGY AROUND VAEDOL. 375 
 
 which are also much more fruitful, especially in 
 Lyd Yaranger and Tanadalen. In Lyd Yaranger, 
 that portion of East Finmark which lies on the 
 south side of Yaranger fjord, we meet with some 
 small fir and pine forests, the Oriental fir, birch, 
 alder, and willow, but, for the most part, large 
 tracts of heather and morasses. 
 
 The great Tana river stretches above twenty- 
 six Swedish miles from S.W. to N.E. to Polmak, 
 and from thence, six miles further, it flows into 
 Tana fjord, a broad, and, in seasons of flood, 
 a mighty river. On both sides of this river are 
 forests of fir and pine mixed together ; while on 
 the Norwegian frontier, birch, alder, aspen, 
 mountain-ash, and bird cherry take their place ; 
 and we then come to the real fells, whose tops are 
 covered with perennial snows, from both sides of 
 which fall many large rivers down into Tana 
 fjord. The whole tract on both sides of Tana 
 river is richer to the naturalist than any other 
 part of East Finmark. These large rivers silently 
 flowing through wide-stretched valleys, which are 
 flooded in the spring, but which in the summer 
 are covered with rank grass and willow bushes, 
 the deep birch forests thickly blended with many 
 species of willow, and the wild, solitary character 
 of the whole landscape, where human foot seldom 
 wanders, renders it a peculiarly fitting home for 
 
376 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 the rarest birds which are met with in East Fin- 
 mark, and the flycatcher, the bullfinch, the rosy 
 bullfinch, the greenshank, the wild swan, the 
 scaup duck, the gyr- falcon, the Siberian jay, the 
 three-toed woodpecker, thrushes, finches, and 
 warblers, breed here in great quantities. 
 
 Respecting the climate of East Finmark, we 
 may divide the year into eight months of winter 
 and four months of summer. The winter sets in 
 generally early in October with cold, stormy 
 weather, and so sudden are the changes in the 
 temperature here that the thermometer often in 
 twelve hours will fall from freezing point to 24 of 
 cold (Reaumur), although the usual winter tem- 
 perature is between 15 and 20 R. Seldom does 
 it stand for a week more than 20 R., and this is 
 always followed by a northerly storm, although 
 in Varanger fjord 32 cold R. has been known. 
 Spring usually sets in early in May with mild and 
 beautiful weather, and by the middle of May the 
 snow begins to melt. The birds of passage arrive 
 about the middle of May, although the snow 
 bunting and rock pipit sometimes appear in the 
 end of April. During the cold, snowy, windy 
 weather, which always sets in just before the ice 
 begins to go in the rivers, the little wanderers 
 assemble in large flocks in the neighbourhood of 
 houses, where they endeavour to get a scanty 
 
THE ORNITHOLOGY AROUND VARDOL. 377 
 
 sustenance. The true summer sets in late in 
 June, but the principal part of the song birds lay 
 their eggs in the middle of that month, the shore 
 lark and the fieldfare in the beginning. The 
 summer heats at Yardol is often 24 R. in the 
 shade, but from ten to five a fresh sea breeze 
 generally blows. The cold autumn weather gene- 
 rally begins about the end of August, although 
 the night frosts often set in between the 4th and 
 11 th of that month. 
 
 In mild summers, with an early spring, the 
 Siberian jay, the shore lark, and the mealy redpole 
 lay at two different times, the first time in the 
 end of May, the second in July. It is hard to 
 say whether it is the same individual bird that 
 lays twice, but it is not improbable, from the long 
 period that elapses between the two layings. 
 
 East Finmark owns a tolerably rich orni- 
 thological fauna, for in Sommerfeet's list he 
 mentions 138 species, viz. : 
 
 Accipitres ....... 14 
 
 Passeres ....... 44 
 
 Gallinee * 3 
 
 Grallse 26 
 
 Anseres ....... 51 
 
 It will not be uninteresting to compare this 
 with my list of the birds of Quickiock, about 
 4 more to the south. 
 
378 A SPRING AND SUMMEE IN LAPLAND. 
 
 ACCIPITRES. 
 
 With the exception of the kestrel, the list of 
 hawks is the same. The gyr- falcon is one of the 
 commonest of the falcons. It does not appear 
 certain that the peregrine breeds in East Finland, 
 but is seen there early in the autumn and spring. 
 All except" the merlin, the peregrine, the osprey, 
 and the sparrow hawk remain during the winter. 
 
 He does not notice either the lesser European 
 sparrow owl or Tengmalm's owl. The Lap. owl 
 is only occasionally met with in autumn, and does 
 not appear to breed further north than Enara. 
 The eagle owl .appears only once to have been 
 accidentally shot here in the winter. The short- 
 eared owl is a summer migrant. The snowy owl 
 and the hawk owl remain throughout the year. 
 
 It is strange that the Ural owl is never seen 
 here. They have an idea up here that the snowy 
 owl always carries away its eggs if they are 
 touched. It appears to breed here in May. 
 
 PASSE BIS. 
 
 The cuckoo, not seen every year. 
 
 The only woodpeckers noticed are the lesser 
 spotted and the three-toed, both which remain 
 throughout the year. 
 
 The starling is accidental, but a young bird 
 
THE ORNITHOLOGY AROUND VARDOL. 379 
 
 appears to have been shot up here in December, 
 1846. 
 
 Of the crows, he mentions the raven, the 
 hooded crow, and the magpie (rare), as remain- 
 ing here throughout the year. 
 
 The Siberian jay also remains during the 
 year. 
 
 The waxwing does not breed here, and is only 
 very rarely seen in the autumn. 
 
 Of the swallows, he notices all except the swift, 
 as summer visitors. 
 
 Both the flycatchers appear to breed here. 
 
 The great shrike is a summer visitant. 
 
 The fieldfare, the redwing, and the ring ouzel, 
 are all summer migrants. The water ouzel 
 remains throughout the winter, and these are all 
 the thrushes that he notices. 
 
 Three wagtails are summer migrants : the 
 continental white wagtail, the grey-headed yellow 
 wagtail (which I never identified at Quickiock), 
 and the black-headed yellow wagtail (M. borealis 
 Sund.), which is commoner than the M. neglect a. 
 
 He mentions three pipits as summer visitants: 
 the meadow pipit, the water pipit (A. rupestris), 
 and the red breasted pipit (A. cerernus, Pall.) 
 
 The latter is common. The eggs of this pipit 
 so much resemble those of the meadow pipit, that 
 it is very hard to distinguish between the two. 
 
380 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 The wheatear is a summer migrant, but the 
 whinchat is not noticed. 
 
 Of the true warblers he mentions only three. 
 All summer migrants : 
 
 The willow warbler (commonest of all), the 
 blue-throated warbler (common), the redstart 
 (rare). 
 
 There is a doubt if the hedge sparrow comes 
 so far north. He notices only one titmouse, the 
 Siberian tit, which remains throughout the year. 
 
 The skylark is rare. The shorelark very 
 common. Both are summer migrants. 
 
 The yellow bunting (rare), the black-headed 
 bunting (rare), and the Lap bunting (common), 
 are only summer visitors ; but the snow bunting 
 remains throughout the year. 
 
 The common sparrow has once been seen. 
 The tree sparrow is rare (in the summer). The 
 brambling is a common summer migrant. The 
 mealy redpole remains throughout the year, and 
 the Fringilla canescens has been killed here. 
 
 The bullfinch is a rare summer visitant, and 
 although the scarlet bullfinch (P. eryfhrina, Tern.) 
 has been occasionally seen, it is not known with 
 certainty to breed here. The common crossbill is 
 very rarely seen in the district, but appears to 
 breed here. The parrot crossbill evidently does 
 not come so far north as any part of Lapland. 
 
THE ORNITHOLOGY AEOUND VARDOL. 381 
 
 GALLING. 
 
 The turtle dove has once been shot at Yardol. 
 The capercailzie, the ptarmigan, and the willow 
 grouse remain here throughout the year. 
 
 They have neither the black grouse or the hazel 
 grouse so far north as this. 
 
 GRALLJ:. 
 
 The golden plover and the dotterel very 
 common in the summer. The ring plover rarer. 
 
 Strange to say, Sommerfeet distinctly says 
 that to his knowledge the grey plover has never 
 been seen in this district. But as Morris figures 
 the egg taken by Mr. Tresham, in East Finmark, 
 we must conclude that they do breed here. 
 
 The turnstone and the oyster-catcher are both 
 summer visitants to the coast around the North 
 Cape. 
 
 The crane is seen very rarely (in the autumn) 
 in Yaranger, but does not appear to breed 
 lit-re. In fact, I fancy that the crane is chiefly 
 met with in the midland and eastern parts of 
 Sweden. 
 
 The curlew and the whimbrel are both summer 
 visitants. The knot is certainly rare, but that it 
 breeds here he hardly doubts, as it is seen on the 
 flats between Yaranger fjord and the Tana river, in 
 June. The little stint is only seen here during 
 
382 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 its spring and autumnal migrations. Temminck's 
 stint, the purp^ sandpiper, and the dunlin are 
 all common in the summer. But neither Selling's 
 sandpiper, the broad-billed sandpiper, the pigmy 
 curlew, or the sanderling have been noticed here 
 at any season. Although Sommerfeet feels certain 
 that both the pigmy curlew and the broad-billed 
 sandpiper breed here. 
 
 The ruff is a common summer visitant. 
 
 The common sandpiper, the redshank, the 
 dusky-redshank, the greenshank, and the wood 
 sandpiper, are all summer migrants to this 
 district. 
 
 The common godwit and the bar-tailed^ god- 
 wit, are both summer visitants. Sommerfeet has, 
 however, never seen the egg of the latter taken 
 here, although it breeds near Enara. 
 
 Both the common and the jack snipe are met 
 with here in the summer. 
 
 The red-breasted phalarope breeds here. But 
 not the grey phalarope, although the latter has 
 been shot here in the end of August in full summer 
 dress, and also in October in pure winter 
 plumage. 
 
 Two specimens of the coot were shot on Vardo 
 in October, 1857. 
 
 ANSEBES. 
 
 The fulmar petrel is seen here at all times of 
 
THE ORNITHOLOGY AROTJXD VARDOL. 383 
 
 the year, but, strange to say, does not appear to 
 breed. 
 
 The only species of tern met with here is 
 the arctic tern, which is a common summer 
 visitant. 
 
 The ivory gull is seen off these coasts very 
 rarely in the winter, especially after a northerly 
 storm. 
 
 The kittiwake comes in May and leaves in 
 October ; the Iceland gull is supposed to breed on 
 Vardol ; the common gull, the herring gull, the 
 greater black-backed, the lesser black-backed, 
 remain up here throughout the whole year. 
 
 The common skua is only accidental. The 
 pomarine skua is yearly seen here in spring and 
 autumn, and without doubt breeds here. 
 
 Richardson's skua is common in the summer, 
 and Buffon's skua not rare. None of them, how- 
 ever, remain throughout the winter. 
 
 Sommerfeet remarks with regard to the breed- 
 ing of the different skuas here : The pomarine 
 skua breeds inland a little way from the sea, for 
 example, on Yaranger Nas; Richardson's skua 
 on islands in the sea, and on dry places on the 
 Fast land, but does not appear to go long into 
 Varanger fjord. Buffon's skua breeds on the 
 morasses and little islands in the fjord, and also 
 on the mosses by the sides of the rivers. 
 
384 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 The wild swan is a summer migrant. 
 
 The white-fronted goose is rare. The lesser 
 white-fronted goose more common. The common 
 wild goose is seen here in the spring on the way 
 to a breeding place Tamsoe, in West Finmark. 
 
 The bean goose and the Anser arvensis (Brehen) 
 breed in many places in East Finmark. The 
 bernicle goose has only once been shot in Naesby, 
 and the brent goose is seen only during their 
 migrations in the spring and autumn to and from 
 Spitzbergen, where they breed. Not one of the 
 geese remain here during the winter. 
 
 The sheldrake has on only one occasion been 
 shot in Varanger fjord. 
 
 S teller's western duck is seen here at all times 
 of the year. Its egg, however, has never been 
 found here, although they probably breed in 
 Eastern or Eussian Finmark. 
 
 The king eider and Barrow's Iceland duck are 
 only occasionally seen in the autumn. But the 
 pintail, the teal, the common wild duck, the 
 widgeon, the scaup, the scoter, the velvet scoter, 
 the golden eye, the long-tailed duck, and the 
 common eider are all regular summer migrants to 
 this district, where they all breed. 
 
 It is not certain whether the tufted duck comes 
 up further north than Enara. 
 
 Both the goosander and merganser breed here, 
 
THE ORNITHOLOGY ABOUND VAEDOL. 385 
 
 and in mild winters an occasional merganser will 
 remain. 
 
 Both the cormorant and the shag remain off 
 the coast throughout the year. 
 
 The great northern diver is only seen in spring 
 and autumn. The black- throated diver often 
 remains off the coast through the winter, and the 
 red-throated diver is a regular summer migrant. 
 
 The Sclavonian grebe (Padiceps Arcticus, Bov.) 
 is the only grebe known here. 
 
 The common, the ringed, the black, and 
 Bruinich's guillemots remain off the coasts 
 throughout the year. The ringed guillemot 
 appears the commonest. 
 
 The little auk is only a winter visitant. 
 
 The puffin is only seen during the summer, as 
 also the razor-bill. 
 
 The great auk has been seen off this coast, but 
 can hardly now be reckoned in the fauna of the 
 north coast of Finland or Lapland. 
 
 It will be seen by the above list that out of the 
 138 birds enumerated as belonging to the fauna of 
 Yardol, nearly 120 breed here. 
 
 I may here add that the names given by the 
 natives to the different species of birds up here 
 are Finnish, and many of them differ from the Lap 
 names in use at Quickiock, although the word 
 Finmark is used by the Norwegians in the same 
 
 c c 
 
386 A SPEING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 sense as the word Lapmark is used by the Swedes. 
 My Lap names used in the birds of Quickiock, 
 will pass current in both places to a certain degree. 
 But an Englishman makes such a mess often in 
 the pronouncing of foreign names, that the collector 
 should always have a few coloured plates with 
 him of the birds he most wishes to obtain, to 
 show to the natives. 
 
CHAPTER XI. 
 
 THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 
 
 OUR journey down to Luleii was a very different 
 affair from our journey up, and twice as trouble- 
 some and expensive, for we had to travel the whole 
 200 miles by water and on foot. We required two 
 boats and four rowers, to each of whom we paid 
 1 rix-dollar per mile. Had we been able to row 
 the whole way, it would have been easy enough ; 
 but the water communication is impeded by so 
 many rapids and falls, over which no boat can 
 ascend or descend, that there we are continually 
 obliged to leave the boat and walk ; and for this 
 reason there can never be a direct water communi- 
 cation from Luleii to Quickiock. Our first day's 
 journey was well enough, and we had very little 
 carrying. I may add that my collection filled 
 about twelve boxes, besides gun and trunk ; and 
 as each bearer's burthen is fixed at 401b., we 
 required about six bearers besides my lad. For 
 this you pay each bearer 1 rix-dollar per Swedish 
 
388 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 mile. We had no difficulty in getting either boat 
 or bearers, and everybody was very civil to us. 
 At one place one of our bearers was a woman, 
 and she stumped away manfully under her burthen 
 for about two Swedish miles. It was rather unfor- 
 tunate for us that it was just the time at which 
 school was opening at Lulea ; and at every place 
 we stopped we were requested either to take a boy 
 down in our boat ("Oh! he don't weigh any thing"), 
 or a trunk or portmanteau (" which would not 
 take any room"). I had already saddled myself 
 with the charge of one lad the priest's son at 
 Quickiock ; and, if I had wished it, I could have 
 had the honour of bringing into Lulea three or .four 
 more. I never was able to practise thoroughly the 
 Roman matron's lesson to her son, " My child, 
 learn to say nay !" and I am certain I can trace 
 half my troubles in life to the sole circumstance 
 of not bearing in mind old Johnson's motto, that " a 
 good-natured man is next to a fool." However, I 
 always try, if I can, to help a fellow creature, and 
 as this is a poor country, they are glad to catch at 
 any chance to save a penny. The weather was 
 delightful during our whole journey, and scarcely 
 an accident happened on the road worth recording. 
 Only once were we in a little danger. We came 
 to a small wood-lake about two English miles 
 across. The boats on the river were excellent, 
 
THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 389 
 
 but on this lake we found only two boats, and 
 these, having been laid up high and dry all the 
 summer, had their planks started by the sun, and 
 were hardly safe. However, my head man for I 
 took one man whom I knew well, all the way down 
 from Quickiock to lockmock said that he thought 
 they would carry the baggage over, and, as by 
 crossing this lake we saved the bearers nearly four 
 miles, we launched the boats. They did not seem 
 to make much water, so we packed our things in, 
 and seating myself on the top of one load, and my 
 lad on the other, we put to sea, and sent the bearers 
 round the lake. The rowers at first remonstrated, 
 and said that it was not safe for us two to accom- 
 pany them. I was, however, determined to sink 
 or swim with my collection, and insisted on 
 going ; and lucky it was that we did so, for the 
 boats leaked so much when we got into the lake, 
 that it took all the time of myself and the lad to 
 keep baling out the water. Had the least wind 
 sprung up we must have gone down, for we were 
 loaded up to the very gunwales, and even in 
 smooth water it required the greatest care and 
 steadiness to keep the boats right. I did not 
 perceive the danger until we were out in the lake, 
 and as I did not then like to " show the white 
 feather, " I would not turn back. I could see by 
 the faces of the rowers that, although there might 
 
390 A SPKING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 be but little fear there was a good deal of danger. 
 However, not a word was spoken ; I kept on 
 baling, and we managed the boats so well that not 
 a drop of water touched any one of the boxes, for 
 I had taken the precaution to put cross sticks 
 under the lower ones, so that they should not 
 touch the bottom of the boat. We reached the 
 opposite shore in safety, and glad enough I was, 
 for any old collector can imagine my feelings when 
 crossing that lake in a rickety boat, which would 
 hardly hang together, laden with the hard-earned 
 treasures of four months' collecting. 
 
 We came to lockmock on the afternoon of the 
 second day, and slept again at the good old priest's, 
 (who, however, had improved in the " world's wis- 
 dom" since we went through in spring, as he now 
 charged us just double for our accommodation), and 
 on Saturdayafternoon rowed over a small lake to his 
 son's, a settler near here, where we slept. During 
 our absence they had nearly finished a new road 
 for about four miles from lockmock to the great 
 Lulea river, and we had only to row and bear our 
 things one Swedish mile to the high road, where 
 we got carts and two horses to carry them for four 
 Swedish miles. Although we had to pay 2 rix- 
 dollars per mile for each horse, and walk ourselves, 
 it was better than paying bearers, for we had not 
 nearly so much trouble, and at six P.M. we reached, 
 
THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 391 
 
 a village by the side of the great Luleii river, about 
 eighty English miles from Luleii. If we could only 
 obtain boats here we could row all the way down 
 to Luleii, and not have to shift our things (with 
 the exception of about five English miles bearing). 
 We luckily met with a most accommodating settler, 
 who provided us with a large boat and two rowers 
 at the rate of 3 rix-dollars the Swedish mile ; and, 
 as a hint to the traveller in the north, I will say 
 that it is as well to be a little liberal. One shilling 
 more or less to a peasant makes but little differ- 
 ence to the traveller, and if he chance to come the 
 same road again, it is not forgotten. We had 
 another school-boy palmed upon us here, but the 
 old settler was really such a good sort that I 
 could not do less than take charge of his son. I 
 may here mention that the boats on these rivers 
 are very long, and both ends are sharp, and rise 
 high out of the water. They always have two 
 rowers, who sit face to face ; the man in the bow 
 rows, and the other at the stern backs water with 
 a pair of short oars in fact, steers the boat and 
 in going down these rapids the whole management 
 of the boat falls on him. The oars are very small, 
 and, instead of rowlocks, run through a twisted 
 willow band or loop. The women here can row 
 just as well as the men. We left this settler's at 
 nine in the morning. We rowed through the 
 
392 A SPRING AND SU.MMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 whole night, each one taking his turn, and reached 
 Lulea on the Tuesday afternoon, the journey of 
 thirty- two Swedish miles having occupied six days. 
 We had to wait in Lulea three days for the Stock- 
 holm steamer, which came up on Friday, and 
 reached that place on the afternoon of September 
 4th, having been about a week on the road from 
 Lulea, for the autumn had now set in, and the 
 steamers are obliged to make short days' runs. 
 In the summer the steamers run up to Lulea in 
 three or four days ; and one boat, the Yolontaire, 
 which goes through without calling at any station, 
 does it in less. 
 
 During our journey down from Quickiock, I 
 had an opportunity of seeing Lapland in her 
 summer dress, and more lovely scenery on both 
 sides, as we floated down this magnificent river, 
 I never wish to see. I was surprised at the rich- 
 ness of the vegetation by the river- side, and the 
 crops of barley were really astonishing, although 
 I feared, this year, they would never ripen. As I 
 lay upon the baggage in the boat, I mussed on 
 the past, the present, and the future. I wondered 
 how many centuries had elapsed since this rocky, 
 iron-bound land was thrown together, and what 
 changes it had undergone. Then, as I gazed upon 
 the clear unclouded sky above my head ; the 
 placid, waveless river on whose bosom we were 
 
THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 393 
 
 floating ; and the magnificent scenery which rose 
 on all sides around us ; I could not help thinking 
 that, notwithstanding the wild character of the 
 land, and the inclemency of the climate in the 
 winter, such a country as this could never have 
 been formed to be entirely forgotten, and to lie 
 for ever a desert on the face of the globe ; but 
 that possibly in the lapse of centuries, owing to 
 that change which, as geologists tell us, is gradually 
 but surely going on in the surface of the world, 
 the appearance of this land may be entirely 
 changed, and instead of standing as a wilderness 
 on the face of the globe, Lapland may become a 
 fertile region when the wave rolls over the richer 
 and more cultivated countries of the south. Yet 
 even these wild, and what we call barren coun- 
 tries, are, doubtless, necessary and important 
 links in the great chain of creation ; for, as old 
 Acerbi truly and philosophically observes, " The 
 imagination of the traveller through Lapland will 
 be exalted to an ecstacy of a melancholy kind a 
 pensive sadness, not without its charms and useful- 
 ness ; that profound solitude and silence which 
 everywhere reigns will every instant suggest the 
 question, What good end do these places serve ? 
 to what purpose all that beautiful scenery of lakes, 
 rivers, rivulets, and cascades, if these deserts, as 
 would seem to be the case, are never to be peopled 
 
394 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 by human beings ? This question will never be 
 solved by man while he retains the persuasion 
 that he is the lord of the creation, and so long as 
 he indulges the idle and presumptuous prejudice 
 that everything exists only for him. . . . Those 
 birds which make the woods resound with their 
 song, which swarm in marshes, on rivers, and in 
 the air, and which in summer retreat, by a long- 
 continued flight to Lapland, from all parts of 
 Europe, in order to provide themselves with 
 breeding-places have not those creatures a na- 
 tural right of multiplying their species as well as 
 man ? Persecuted everywhere else by human 
 snares and industry, refined by fictitious ^wants 
 and desires, ought they not to have an asylum 
 where they may deposit the fruits of their loves ?'' 
 A rather jovial incident (twenty years ago I 
 should have called it " a lark ") wound up my 
 Lap trip. As I was sitting at supper in the inn 
 at Lulea on the night we arrived, my attention 
 was attracted by hearing English spoken at a 
 side table ; and not having heard the old language 
 so long, I introduced myself after supper, and 
 joined the company, which consisted of two 
 Swedish captains, who spoke English very fairly, 
 and a stout, weather-beaten, jolly, good-looking 
 fellow a true sample of the British merchant- 
 skipper. Any intelligence from home in a foreign 
 
THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 395 
 
 country is always welcome ; and though the most 
 important piece of news which he could tell me 
 was that " Jem Mace was matched to fight Tom 
 King again," still there was something English 
 about that, and we discussed the merits of the 
 two men quite as warmly and enthusiastically 
 under the polar circle as in Mace's own parlour. 
 It appeared that the skipper's brig was lying in 
 the harbour laden with timber, ready to sail the 
 next morning, and he was (true sailor-fashion) 
 enjoying his last night on shore. The girl, how- 
 ever, came to warn us at eleven that it was time 
 to close, but. to borrow the skipper's phrase, we 
 had not half " spliced the main brace." So I 
 proposed an adjournment to my private room, 
 and by dint of a little flattery and cajolery we 
 persuaded her to take down a bottle of brandy 
 and "the materials;" to which she at first ob- 
 jected, saying, she knew what we Englishmen 
 were when we got together most probably we 
 should set the room on fire. Where the carrion 
 is there will be the " vultures ;" and our company 
 was soon increased by two or three other skippers, 
 and last of all by a burly Russian captain, who 
 claimed an introduction on the score that his brig 
 had been burnt by an English man-of-war during 
 the late Russian war. A jolly night we spent 
 of it, and great was the Babel ; for I have in- 
 
396 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 variably observed, that when a parcel of foreigners 
 and Englishmen get drinking together, each one 
 seems to feel bound, out of compliment, to address 
 the foreigner in his own native language. For 
 instance, I tried Finnish with the Russian, he tried 
 English, and the English skipper tried Swedish 
 and I must say that one was about as good as the 
 other. The English skipper was as good a singer 
 as ever I heard, and the pathos which he threw 
 into " Nelly Gray," and some other of those sweet 
 nigger melodies, was really worthy of a better 
 audience. Of course we wound up with " The 
 Eed, "White, and Blue," at which the Russian took 
 offence. " I like not de blue." He spoke feel- 
 ingly, for he said it was "von Admiral of de 
 
 Blue " who burnt his ship. Luckily we had but 
 one bottle of brandy, and as there are no " finishes" 
 in Lulea, we were perforce obliged to be " merry 
 and wise." However, I agreed to go on board 
 with the skipper to wind up, and see him off, and 
 come back with the pilot boat. He took a great 
 fancy to a large reindeer skin and a pair of very 
 neat small horns which lay in my room, and I 
 gave them to him, just to show them at home that 
 he had been in Lapland. Tying the skin around 
 him, forming a hood over his head, and fixing the 
 horns on the top, out we sallied, and a curious 
 figure he looked rolling down the quiet street 
 
THE JOUENEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 397 
 
 of Lulea, in the grey hazy light of morning. The 
 weather had come on squally, and so heavy a mist 
 hung over the river that we could not see a boat's 
 length before us. We pulled out in a rickety 
 little dingey to the brig, which lay some distance 
 from the shore, and it was some time before we 
 could find the ship. " Brig ahoy ! " met with no 
 response, till at length we saw the hull of the 
 " timber drogger" looming right ahead. When 
 we ran alongside, all was silent as death, and we 
 would not wake any of the crew. In fact, that 
 would not have been an easy task ; for while the 
 skipper had been enjoying himself on shore, the 
 crew were doing the same on board, and every 
 man, especially the old mate, had turned in con- 
 siderably more than half seas over. "Now," 
 said the skipper, as we climbed up the chains, 
 " I'll have a lark with my old mate." So we 
 groped our way quietly down into the cabin a 
 little confined place, redolent of pitch and bilge- 
 water and as soon as we had struck a light, the 
 skipper, clad in his rein- skin and horns, went 
 up to the mate's bunk, and, shaking him roughly 
 by the arm, roared out in a voice of thunder, 
 "Now turn out, old fellow, I've come for you 
 at last; I've been wanting you a long time/' 
 Never shall I forget the ludicrous scene that 
 followed. After staring wildly for a few seconds 
 
398 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 at the strange apparition that met his astonished 
 gaze, the old mate sprang out of bed and rushed 
 to the companion ladder in his shirt, in order to 
 escape on deck. Out went the light. " Pull him 
 back by his leg," roared the skipper, which I man- 
 aged to do ; and I had better have left him alone, 
 for he immediately turned on me, and, pinning 
 me down on the table, began hammering away at 
 my head as I lay under him. If I had wished, I 
 could not have defended myself, for I was so con- 
 vulsed with laughter. In the mean time, the cap- 
 tain (who had sprung into his cabin, cast off the 
 skin and horns, and lit a candle) came to the 
 rescue. And if the old mate's astonishment was 
 great when he woke and saw the strange figure 
 by his bedside, it was far greater now, when he 
 saw only two human beings like himself in the 
 cabin. The pantomime and I never saw a panto- 
 mime in my life half so good did not take so long- 
 to act as to describe. It was all a mystery to 
 him ; but he went back to his bunk a sober man, 
 and all he begged of us was, not to be left again 
 in the dark ; so the captain and I sat up yarning 
 in his cabin till the pilot came aboard. In the 
 morning, the old mate, who soon got excellent 
 friends with me, took me on one side, and told me 
 confidentially that it was all a mistake about 
 Saatan being black ; he was grey he could swear 
 
THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 399 
 
 it, for he had seen him in the night. I pooh- 
 poohed the whole thing, said he must have been 
 dreaming ; but it was no use. He said he never 
 dare sail in that brig again in fact, he was get- 
 ting old, and had some serious thoughts of knock- 
 ing off the sea altogether ; and begged me, if 
 possible, to procure him a live bear or some other 
 wild animal, as he thought he could get a good 
 living by leading it about England. At five the 
 pilot came aboard, and the anchor was soon apeak, 
 the cheery voices of the British crew bringing 
 back to my mind scenes in foreign harbours now 
 many thousand miles distant. I went out to sea 
 with him about twenty miles, and on leaving in 
 the pilot-boat a beautiful leading wdnd had sprung 
 up, and was steadily carrying the old brig out to 
 sea ; and as the dear old British flag faded away 
 in the distance, I inwardly wished her a good 
 passage, and hoped, to use the skipper's phrase, 
 that " she'd bump home in something under a 
 month." 
 
 "We had not many passengers on the Stockholm 
 boat, but there were three young men standing 
 together on the poop when I came on board, who 
 deserve a passing notice. The manly, open counte- 
 nance; the wiry, well-knit form; the neat, well- 
 fitting dress (with nothing of the swell or dandy 
 about it) ; and, moreover, the quiet, determined 
 
400 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 air, all bespake the well-bred Englishman. I 
 could have picked them out of a thousand foreign 
 youths as sons of the old country, as well as if 
 their native land had been written on their fore- 
 heads. We soon got into conversation, for there 
 was nothing of that haughty pride about them 
 which too often characterizes the travelling Briton. 
 There was no nonsense about these three 
 young fellows, and there was a refreshing and 
 truly English welcome conveyed in the quiet, half- 
 knowing nod, and " How are you, old fellow, this 
 morning ?" when we met at the breakfast-table. 
 The greeting was, perhaps, not quite so demon- 
 strative as when two foreigners meet, but it was 
 equally sincere. " I wonder," once asked a foreign 
 lady of me, " whether there was ever a really 
 polite Englishman. 55 " Certainly not, in your 
 acceptation of the term, 55 I answered ; "for we 
 generally mean what we say.' 5 
 
 It seems that these young travellers had been 
 by sea coastwise right up to the Alten, near the 
 North Cape, and come down on foot all the way 
 to Tornea, through the very wilds of Lapland, 
 without an interpreter, and not knowing a word 
 of the language. I thought I had done great 
 things getting up as far as Quickiock, and yet 
 these three seemed to make nothing of their travel; 
 and I could not help admiring the quiet, unassuin- 
 
THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 401 
 
 ing manner in which they alluded to the troubles 
 and hardships they had undergone and these 
 could not have been a few. Well may foreigners 
 wonder at the true pluck and determination of 
 character in the Englishman ; and from what does 
 this spring ? Why, in a great measure from the 
 manner in which the British youth are brought 
 up. The love of manly exercises and field sports is, 
 as it were, a part of their nature, and by becoming 
 a proficient in anyone of these the lad gains a feeling 
 of self-dependence. " The will to do, the soul to 
 dare," becomes too deeply implanted in his breast 
 ever to be uprooted and what is the consequence ? 
 The lessons learnt on the Thames, the Cam, and 
 the Isis, in the cricket-field, or across country, are 
 never forgotten ; and when such men in after-life 
 are placed in situations of danger or difficulty, it 
 is easy to see the advantages of early training. 
 One of these young striplings was captain of a 
 Cambridge boat. The only anxiety which the 
 youngest seemed to feel was, that he should not 
 be home in time for the best partridge shooting. 
 And as for the eldest, no wonder he took things 
 coolly, for he was "an old bushman" in truth; 
 and a man, who could travel (as he told me he 
 had done) alone through a country peopled with 
 wild and savage "Maories," was not likely to see 
 much fear in wandering through a quiet country 
 
 D I) 
 
402 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 like Lapland. JSFo fear of Old England going to 
 the wall, as long as she can keep up the breed of 
 young men like these. 
 
 We were about seven days between Lulea and 
 Stockholm. We left for Carlstadt the morning 
 after we arrived in Stockholm, and two days' 
 journey brought us back to that good old town, 
 having been in all about sixteen days on the road ; 
 and when I unpacked my collection, I had the 
 satisfaction of finding that not one egg was broken 
 or a skin injured. The trip cost little more than 
 100 in all. The journey was far less trouble- 
 some than I had anticipated, and left upon my 
 mind a very different impression from that^ which 
 the same journey seems, some years ago, to have 
 impressed on the mind of a querulous old French- 
 man, who wound up a description of his trip to 
 Lapland in this manner : " Thus ended a course 
 which I would not have left unmade for all the 
 gold in the world, and which I would not for all 
 the gold in the world make over again." 
 
 I shall now take my leave of the reader, in 
 the hope that, if he has borne with me to the end, 
 he will have derived both amusement and instruc- 
 tion from the perusal of my Lap notes, and have 
 obtained a slight insight into the fauna of this 
 wild and interesting land. It were impossible 
 from the experience of a single season to give 
 
THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 403 
 
 anything more than a general outline of the fauna 
 of any country : this is all that my notes profess 
 to do. I have stuck to the truth throughout, 
 relying on my own personal observation for 
 /tin h'l'iel, except as regards the ornithology of the 
 district round the North Cape. I have carefully 
 avoided going over beaten ground, and I think 
 much new, and, to the ornithologist, interesting 
 matter will be found in the foregoing pages. 
 Should a perusal of what I have written induce 
 any brother naturalist to follow my steps, I will 
 promise him that he will not be disappointed. 
 
 The ornithologist and oologist will see, by 
 reference to my list of birds, what treasures lie 
 hidden in the wilds of Lapland ; and to the bota- 
 nist and entomologist this is indeed as sacred 
 ground. It is not, however, only to the natu- 
 ralist or collector that this country offers such 
 peculiar attractions. There are many other men 
 who, without being collectors, are nevertheless 
 quite as true lovers of nature, and whose sole 
 delight is in wandering among wild natural scenery 
 men who, to quote the words of a pleasant 
 sporting writer, can "look upon a fine quickset 
 hedge without inwardly wondering how they would 
 6 go at it ; 5 or gaze with admiration upon a wide 
 stretch of meadow land without suggesting what 
 a devilish good two-mile gallop might be made 
 
404 A SPRING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 there." And to such men the varied scenery of 
 a Lap landscape will present features of a new 
 and altogether different character from anything 
 they have ever seen before ; and to spend mid- 
 summer night on a high fell, within the polar 
 circle is, to such men, alone worth the trouble of 
 a journey from England. 
 
 Any one, as I have before observed, can pic- 
 ture to his mind the principal beauties of a fell 
 landscape. One mountain so much resembles 
 another, that the painter's pencil can probably 
 nearly imitate the reality of this part of the scene; 
 but a far more difficult task would it be for any 
 painter to convey a just idea of the beauty of the 
 landscape of a true fell valley. 
 
 Here is indeed a rich field for the botanist ; 
 and I really think, if I were asked how the full 
 sum of earthly happiness was to be obtained, I 
 should answer, "Place a true botanist" (for of all 
 pursuits that of the botanist is, perhaps, the most 
 innocent and charming) "in one of these fell val- 
 leys, on a fine day in July, and leave him to 
 wander free and unmolested, with no other com- 
 panion than that most delightful of all books, 
 ' Sower by J s Wild Flowers.' ' I am no botanist 
 myself, and scarcely know the scientific distinction 
 between a buttercup and a daisy; but I know 
 them both again when I see them so truthfully 
 
THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 405 
 
 depicted in his pages my companion in many a 
 solitary ramble. What happy remembrances, how 
 many visions of happy days long since numbered 
 with the past, has that book conjured up in my 
 mind ! and how many heartfelt blessings must 
 ever rest on the head of that man who can, by a 
 few strokes of his pencil, recall to the wanderer's 
 mind so many fond recollections of youth and 
 home ! 
 
 Youthful impressions are hard to eradicate; 
 and perhaps of all our innocent loves that of wild 
 flowers clings to us the longest. I can pass by 
 the richest parterre with a very casual glance, and 
 though I cannot help admiring the gaudy colours 
 of the tulip, the dahlia, or the hollyhock, I scarcely 
 care to take a second look at them. Many a year 
 has now passed by since I plucked the violet, the 
 primrose, the dog-rose, and wild honeysuckle in 
 the sheltered lane of my own happy village ; but if 
 by chance I recognize one of them, or even a 
 representative, in a foreign land, it seems like 
 meeting with a dear old friend, and in an instant 
 I am again at home. For, 
 
 " What fond recollections the cowslip awakes, 
 What sweet little islands twice seen in their lakes, 
 
 Does the wild water-lily restore ! 
 What visions I read in the primrose's looks, 
 And what pictures of pebbled and minnowy brooks, 
 
 In the vetches that tangle their shore!" 
 
406 A SPUING AND SUMMER IN LAPLAND. 
 
 Lasting will be the impression which the 
 beauty of the Lapland landscape left upon my 
 mind, and I trust that many others will gaze upon 
 it with the same feelings of delight as myself. 
 There is something cheerless in the word " wan- 
 derer;" but depend upon it, that the man who is 
 tied to one spot, and whose whole life is solely 
 engrossed in the cares and business of the world, 
 becomes as it were a mere automaton, and although 
 the one all- engrossing pursuit of money- making 
 may absorb every better feeling, he must at 
 length 
 
 " Weary at the oar 
 
 Which thousands, once chained fast to, quit no more."_ 
 
 And although there may be times when the wan- 
 derer will sigh for the comforts of a settled and 
 domestic home, there are others when he would 
 scarcely exchange his lot with the wealthiest in 
 the land. 
 
 It is when wandering among scenes like those 
 above described that the cares and troubles of 
 the world are really forgotten. It is among such 
 scenes that a man learns to feel his true position, 
 and if he only tries to read the great book of 
 nature aright, "to lookup from nature unto nature's 
 God," instead of regarding his time as thrown 
 away, he may consider the hours thus spent as 
 some of the happiest and most profitable in his 
 
THE JOURNEY DOWN, AND CONCLUSION. 407 
 
 life hours upon which he can never look back in 
 after years with a single pang of regret hours 
 which will render him a wiser and a better man, 
 and the mere recollection of which will, it is to be 
 hoped, in his declining days serve to " cheer the 
 gloom of life's fast-ebbing scene," and afford him 
 for the time being that true peace of mind which 
 the world can never give, but which it, however, 
 too often takes away. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 HABKILD, PRINTER, LONDOff 
 
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