■ >i»iut that he would have stood a much better chance of being remunerated for the pecuniary losses occasioned by his captivity : having aspired to the high honour of dissemi- nating knowledge of a more important nature than can possibly result from works of fiction, he must be satisfied with that intellectual reward which never fails to arise from an honest endeavour to serve mankind. Though it is evident that the author's principal object in pub- lishing, was to call the serious attention of Europe to the necessity and importance of colonizing Northern Africa, and, at all events, to put an end to piracy, he Mas by no means indifferent to those details which are calculated to amuse the general reader. It is hoped these will be found to possess a sufficient degree of interest to render them worth perusal; even should the more abstract reasonings be regarded with indifference. As this is the first prose work of any consequence which the author has given to the public, its merits will not be particularly enhanced by any praises which I might be disposed to bestow on his poetical talents. However, these are such as to have placed Mr. Pananti's name very high amongst the living poets of Italy. While in England, where, rather than remain a passive spectator of his country's degradation, he took shelter during the revolutionary storm; b EDITOR S PREFACE. in addition to many smaller pieces, he published two volumes, in 1809, entitled // Poeta di Teatro, descriptive of the state of our Italian opera. Tliis, in addition to local interest, contains many dia^ressions on the manners, customs, and events of the day, and is in other respects distinguished by all that epigrammatic humour which abounds in his earlier productions: many of these were published pre- vious to his quitting Tuscany, and are justly celebrated in Italy. Having experienced every difficulty which a total loss of his property, the hardships of captivity, and a broken spirit could produce, Mr. P. endeavoured to console himself on returning to Florence, by compiling the following narrative ; and as stated in a note prefixed to the second edition of the original, the transac- tions which took place previous and subsequent to the attack under Lord Exmouth, gave additional importance to his materials. How the author has availed himself of this circumstance, it is for the public to determine. . - • ■ As all that occurred to Mr. Pananti on the subject of Africa, together with the observations suggested by late events, are amply detailed throughout his work, I have only to express an ardent hope that they will produce some eflect on the august personages who are about to meet in Germany during the ensuing summer : for next to the great question of South American independence, none demand more serious consideration than that of Italy and the coast of Barbary. In paying a just tribute of applause to the author's political principles, and the unrestrained liberality with which he treats the EDITORS PREFACE. XI impoitaut questions he has discussed, no less admiration is due to tlie government of Tuscany and its mild censorship, which gave liim so wide a latitude for the dissemination of his sentiments. In fact, the publication of such a work as the following-, may be regarded as an epoch in the history of Ital3% and excites the more surprize, irom newspapers and other periodical works being generally under the most peremptory restrictions in nearly all the Italian states. With respect to the difference of arrangement, adopted in this edition of Mr. Pananti's narrative, the division into chapters has the advantage of being more familiar to us, while a degree of unity, which seems wanting in the original, is given to the whole work. Inimical to literal translation, from a conviction that no language on earth is susceptible of an exact transcript into another, my chief study in the following sheets, has been that of transfusing the author's ideas into the idiom of our own country. Although, owing to diffi- culties which must always arise on such occasions, I am not so vain as to flatter myself with having attained this object in its fullest extent ; it will be exceedingly gratifying to find, that some progress has been made towards a design, which might, I think, be more gene- rally adopted, without injuring the interests of literature, or diminish- ing the number of readers. To those who are not fond of quotations, I beg to observe, that many in the original which appeared least calculated to create an interest with the English reader have been suppressed; while a trans- lation is added to the most material, and care has been taken that none should interfere with the course of the narrative. b 2 xii editor's preface. The same motives which guided me in the translation, have also dictated an occasional departure from the original, either by an omission of wliatever appeared not exactly suited to the taste of an English reader, or had been already sufficiently illustrated by other writers. This is another privilege which few will be disposed to deny a translator, and if more freely exercised, it could not fail to render an essential service to the community. If I am to believe those who have studied the public taste, in matters of literature, an author may get over any difficulty, except that of making people read his notes. A triend happening to suggest this discouraging circumstance in the course of the following trans- lation ; my reply was, that besides the text having in many places, seemed to require either commentary or illustration, readers were not generally disposed to find fault with any remarks, which did not appear to be inserted merely for the purpose of swelling up a volume. I am not without a hope, that those who take the trouble of perusing the share I have had in this, will acquit me of a charge like the above ; while all are, of course, at liberty to pass it over, as not interfering with the narrative, which it is solely intended to diversify, by an occasional reference to a few subjects, that have hitherto created no inconsiderable degree of public interest in this country. Having, on my late return from the Continent, heard that tours innumerable were in preparation, I have been deterred from any attempt to make up one myself But as it is scarcely possible for the most ordinary observer, to visit France or Italy, without noticing the singular spectacle exhibited by those two countries, after the EDITORS PllEFAGE. XIII extraordinary vicissitudes of their recent history. I tliought the present a favourable opportunity to offer a few desultory remarks on the above nations. Visiting the former, with a strong [)reposses- sion in favour of a people, whom I had })rincipally known through the medium of books ; it is needless to say, that in comn^on with many others, these were calculated to convey but a very limited notion of the French character ; which requires to be closely examined before it is thoroughly understood. If, like most of our countrymen who have visited France, I have found less to admire, than I at first anticipated ; the circumstance does not arise from prejudice on my part, or national hatred : some of the facts which have given rise to the opinions promulgated in the notes, are stated ; and if necessary, I am prepared to corroborate them by many others. A warm admirer of those intellectual qua- lities and that natural genius, which have placed France in the first rank of civilized nations, I am not, for these reasons, called upon to sacrifice the interests of truth, either for the sake of private friendship, or the lear of censure. The Avhole tenor of my obser- vations proves how highly 1 appreciate individual talent ; while it was inipossible to stifle my feelings, on seeing a nation, so capable of all that is great and good, made the willing instrument of lui- principled factions, or false doctrines in philosophy. Hence the little ceremony observed with regard to Buonaparte, whom I can never cease to consider as one of the greatest enemies public liberty has had in Europe ; and yet, unheard of anomaly, the revolutionary faction wish for his return ! ! ! • • • ■ I have in vain endeavoured to account for this most inexplicable xiv ' EDITORS PREFACÌ5. fatality ; which, lamentable to reflect, has poHuted some minds in our own country. As any attempt to trace the cause of this won- derful change in the opinion of some politicians, who thought so diametrically opposite, while the Ex-Emperor was in power, would lead me far beyond the limits of a preface, I will only add on this subject, that those who wish to excite the sympathy of Europe in his behalf, ought, at least, to inform the public in what way he has, during his long and sanguinary reign, contributed to the repose or happitiess of mankind. Until this is done, I am fully justified in cherishing- the opinions, founded on a perfect recollection of his- torical facts, which are given in the present publication. I am by no means insensible to those talents which have led to Buona- parte's being compared to the Alexanders and Caesars of former days ; talents, which he invariably applied to obtain the same ends. But these are the strongest reasons against suifering common sense to be violated, by looking to such people for the salvation of liberty. Without the smallest wish of impeding the progress of those exertions in favour of the St. Helena exile, which go to soften the rigours of his confinement, or even lead to his being transferred to a less solitary region ; I cannot help considering the manner in which his public character has been blazoned forth to the English people, as having done incalculable mischief to the cause it was intended to promote. Is it not the bounden duty of upright and unprejudiced political writers, to warn the multitude against the frightful consequences of elevating any more military leaders to rule over them t And yet, we have seen those, who make an open profession of patriotism, inscribe odes, and write panegyrics on Napoleon Buonaparte ! As this admi- ration is neither justified by wisdom nor prudence, it can only be EDITORS PREFACii. XV regarded as one of those palpable absurdities, and fhtal errors, which sometimes lead men astray against the evidence of their senses ; and on this account, I trust, we shall learn to look to a more legitimate source of bettering the condition of nations, than by the renewal of military despotism in Europe. And how justly might not the pro- phetic interrogatories of M. de Calonne be repeated to those, who are still labouring to bring back the evils of anarchy in France : — '■ Qu'il est funeste l'art de tromper le peuple! et quel execrable usage les perturbateurs de la France n'en ont ils pas fait'? Nation spirituelle, aimable, généreuse, à qui il ne manque que de réfléchir davantage ! Jusques à quand vous laisserez-vous aveugler ? Jusques à qnand serez-vous le jouet d'un association d'intrigans, d'enthusiastes et de dupes ?" While I was taught to attribute the moral and political evils of France to causes purely local; those of persecuted and ill-fated Italy, seemed to arise from the ceaseless avidity and rapacious ambition of foreign invaders. The abuses of religion have no doubt had consider- able share in adding to the misfortunes of that interesting country; but however inclined the Italians may be to encourage vicious habits, their capability' of improvement, and disposition to adopt liberal insti- tutions, could never be fairly estimated while shackled by so many oppressions, which left no choice between slavery and subjection. Impressed with these important truths; grateful for the blessings conferred on the rest of Europe by that intellectual tire \vhich has never ceased to burn in the climate of Italy ; penetrated with sorrow at the impoverished and degraded state of the people, which can XVI EDITOR S PREFACE. only be meliorated by the adoption of a more liberal and enlightened policy than has been hitherto resorted to, I was unwillina; to lose this opportunity of submitting a few thoughts on the subject to the public. Unaided either by the talents or influence which many English travellers who visited Italy last year possessed, my desultory and unconnected remarks have nothing to recommend them but truth. It is with this conviction, and my anxiety to avert those evils likely to arise from that political .system so justly apostrophised— Monstrum horrenduiu, iuforme, ingeiis, cui lumeu adeptum ! which Italy now presents, that I have ventured to subjoin the note at the end of the volume, in the hope of its attracting the attention of those who have more ample means of illustrating the important subjects to which it alludes. Should my feeble efforts happily awaken the literati of this country to a just sense of what they owe to that of Dante, Petrarch, and Galileo, I am thoroughly con- vinced the great powers of Europe will not be appealed to in vain, by an energetic and dignified expression of that opinion which has been so often and successfully exerted in the cause of truth and humanity. Although some years have elapsed .since I have ventured to appear before the public in the character of a writer, I caimot forget the extreme liberality with which my first literary effort was received. In returning my best thanks to those gentlemen who were kind enough to notice a book, written with precisely the same object as the present, that of serving the European community, I cannot pay them a more flattering compliment, than by observing, that the liDlTOK S IMIEFAC K. XVII matter it contained appeared sufficiently important to cause the defects of stjie and composition to be overlooked. Having said thus much, it is but fair to add, that these remarks are not made with any view to avert the salutary eye of criticism. However I may have failed in doing justice to the original, it is hoped the typographical and ornamental partof this volume will meet the reader's approbation. Both the View of Algiers, and Plan of the late Attack, are from the designs of a distinguished amateur artist, who has had every facility of doing justice to his subject: so that independent of their merits as specimens of art, their accuracy may be depended on. The Map has also many pretensions to correctness. It was originally drawn by a person long resident in Algiers, and has received considerable additions from others of a more recent date in my own possession. Having thus endeavoured to give the reader an idea of what he is to expect from a perusal of the following pages, much more might be said in extenuation of the numerous sins of omission and commission, which will no doubt be laid to the author's charge, as well as to that of his very inadequate translator ; but it is high time to conclude : and as the ingenious and learned author of Vulgar Errors, says, " We are unwilling to spin out our waking thoughts into the Phantasms of Sleep, which often continueth Precogitations, making Cables of Cobwebs, and Wildernesses of handsome Groves. And lastly," by way of reply to criticism, " we are not Magisterial in opinions, nor have we Dietator-like obtruded our conceptions; but in the humility of enquiries or disquisitions have only proposed them unto more ocular discerners. And therefore, opinions are free, and open it is for any one to think or declare the contrary !" c \MHCH ILLUSTRATE THIS WORK. 1. A Picturesque View of Algiers, to face the Title. 2. Map of theRegencyof Algiers, Page 101 3. Plan of the City and Fortifications of Algiers, and of the Stations taken by the Combined Fleets, under the Command of Lord Exmouth at the Attack, on the 27th August, 1816 393 AUTHORS PREFACE. Life is a book, says Goldsmith, of which he, whose observations have been merely confined to his native country, has only read a single page ; and travellers are aptly compared to those streams, which become grand and more majestic, in proportion as they wander from their original sources, increasing their salutary and useful qua- lities as they proceed. Hence, enterprizing individuals, anxious to improve themselves, and add to the knowledge of others, have not been deterred in their favourite pursuit, either by the Polar ice, or the burning sun of the Equator, the lofty summits of the Andes, or unfrequented waters of the Southern Ocean. There is, however, one quarter of the globe, which has, hitherto, terrified many, and baffled the utmost efforts of the most resolute adventurers ; and that is Africa. Nearly all those who have ventured into this highly interesting con- tinent, have either found a melancholy grave, or encountered the greatest personal calamities ; and the public has had successively to deplore the premature fate of Houghton, Horneman, Park, Roent- gen, and several others. The access to this extraordinary region is impeded by a thousand obstacles and difficulties, almost unknown to other quarters. AYithout many deep rivers or inland seas, Africa seems, as it were, closed to the genius of commerce and navi- gation ; the Senegal, Niger, and Gambia, its principal streams, instead of passing over regular and even countries, are frequently c2 XX AUTHORS PREPACE interrupted by rapid falls, ridges of rocks and sliallovvs, which render it nearly imjjossible for vessels of tlie smallest size to ascend them ; so that, whether we consider its various inequalities of soil and climate, extensive deserts and vast solitudes, mostly infested by venomous reptiles, or more ferocious beasts of prey ; the infinite diversity of tribes which inhabit its surface, from the uncultivated savages of Caffraria and Angola, to the bigoted Mahometan or relentless Abys- sinian, all equally inimical to friendly intercourse with strangers ; innumerable perils are still opposed to the candidate for African discovery; which it is of the utmost importance to diminish, by pro- secuting those researches and enquiries, illustrative of the manners and customs of the more civilized parts, between which and th« interior, a constant intercourse is known to be kept up ; possessing the additional advantage of being liable to fewer interruptions, than have been so lamentably experienced in attempting to penetrate from other quarters. By far the most beautil'ul part of AlVica, that nearest to Europe ; a country which was once the abode of a polished and civilized people; that from whence, rather than Sierra Leone or Egypt, it would be least difficult to trace the source of the Niger, and follow its coxirse, or pass into other parts of the interior, as proved by the progres» of the Romans ; a country rich in classic recollections, and the choicest productions of nature ; which, in other days, contained the intellec- tual spirit of Greece and Rome, filling the granaries of the latter; which, united by commercial and political ties, is still abundantly capable of ministering to the wants and luxuries of the European family : such is the immense and fertile coast of Barbary, which, by a singular fatality, is still in possession of a race, the most cruel and inhospitable. This extensive region, divided into nominal kiiigdoms, is XXI governed by a set of monsters, who vie with each other in the deepest hatred and bitterest hostility tovvartis Christianity and civilization. Thus phicing a ruinous barrier between two great divisions of the earth ; and, as many have truly said, been hitherto the principal, and perhaps only cause of Africa's being so inaccessible to Europeans. ...i - . ■ -. , , But now that the atiairs of the world are re-established on their ancient basis ; when the great monarchs of Europe are united in holy alliance, doubtless with the paternal design of perpetuating the pure doctrines, and rational morality of the Evangelists ; now that the reign of peace, and dominion of justice has once more illumined the political horizon ; it is surely incompatible with such beneficent views, any longer to tolerate self-appointed chiefs of banditti, under the specious title of regular governments ; whose characteristic bru- tality, and lawless violence, is constantly occupied in disturbing the domestic happiness and moral order of society. Such a supposition is as repugnant to the interests of humanity, as it is to the progress of knowledge, and pre-eminently enlightened character of the pre- sent age. Reason and political wisdom cannot any longer permit such numerous hordes of plunderers to exercise their depredations with impunity, in the centre of the globe, bordering upon all that is refined and estimable in our nature; and that benign philosophy which has abolished the iniquitous traffic of our black fellow creatures, is loudly called upon to banish a still greater evil, the slavery of the whites ! The voice of friendly admonition has been vainly reiterated to those governments, and a terrible example made of the most guilty. But can we place any permanent reliance on the oft plighted and more often broken faith of such monsters Ì Is peace the interest of xxii author's preface. governments, whose very establishment is fonnded upon the law of the strongest, plunder and proscription? It is indeed sincerely to be wished that a long and perpetual one may continue towards the debi- litated states of Italy, and unprotected Hanse Towns. But it is also of the first consequence to become thoroughly acquainted with the objects of our just apprehension : in order clearly to ascertain the best measures of precaution against their machinations, let us besides keep in mind the crying injuries we have for so long a period expe- rienced at the hands of these merciless people, as another means of guarding against future aggression. Under all these considerations, it will not perhaps be either useless or uninteresting to narrate the circumstances attending a late voyage to the inauspicious coast of Barbary, made by a person, who was transported thither by one of those dreadful calamities, which, to the shame of civilization, human nature has been for many centuries doomed ineffectually to deplore. In the following pages the author proposes to describe what he has witnessed, and draw as faithful a picture as he can of the melancholy scenes and dreadful atrocities which his evil genius destined him to see in one of the piratical states. Those parts of his work which relate to government, manners and customs, or the interior which he had no opportunity of visiting, are derived from the best and most intelligent authorities he could find during his residence in Algiers; and he is only induced to offer them from a conviction of their authenticity. The whole is submitted to the public with those imperfections which are, no doubt, profusely scat- tered tlirough the work ; but however multiplied these may be, the author confidently relies on the impartiality of its decision in favour of a book written for the sole purpose of aiding the cause of religion, justice, and humanity. CONTENTS. PAGE CHAPTER I. Memoirs. — Origin of the Voyage.— Fatal Delay. — Thames.— The Ocean.— Con- tinuance of the Voyage. — Rencontre. — Coast of Fez.— Straits and Bay of Gibraltar. — Passage up the Mediterranean. — Arrival at the Island of San Pietro ' CHAPTER II. Imprudent Departure from San Pietro. — Presentiments.— Appearance of the Algerine Squadron. — Captured by the Pirates. — Captives taken before the Grand Rais or Admiral. — First Night on board the Corsair. — Second Day. — Storm. — Naval Engagement. — Union of the Captives. — Treatment on board the Corsairs of Barbary. — Situation improved. — Hope. — The Rais Hamida. — Coast of Italy. — Council of War. — Dispute between Tunis and Algiers. — Historical Notice of Tunis. — Revolution there. — The Squadron appears before Tunis, and retires. — Coasting, and Arrival at Bona • 27 CHAPTER lit. Arrival in Algiers. — Landing. — Appearance before the Heads of the Government. — Prison of the Slaves.— First Day in Slavery. — The Employment.— Hours of Repose.— Public Works. — Liberation.— Arrival at the British Consulate. — Lost Riches. — Still greater Losses. — Consolations. — Unfortunate Companions. — Mode of living at Algiers '. ^4 XXIV (ONTENTS PAGE. CHAPTER IV. Christian Slavery in Algiers. — Its physical and moral Effects. — Observations on the Ransom and Liberation effected by the Expedition under Lord Exmouth. — Remarks on the various Accounts of Barbary hitherto published. — Object and Motives of the Author in laying his Account before the Public, &c 88 CHAPTER V. Barbary. — Derivation of its Name. — Soil, and Climate. — Short View of its general History, and of Algiers in particular. — Geographical Description. — Monuments and Remains of Antiquity. — The Capital described 101 CHAPTER VI. Fossils, Minerals, and other natural Productions of Barbary. — Trees and Vege- tables. — The Lotus and Palm Tree. — Domestic Animals.— The Barb, Camel, and Dromedary. — Wild Animals. — Birds, Reptiles, Scorpions, and Locusts.- lit) CHAPTER VII. Desert of Angad. — Hardships in crossing the Sahara, or Great Desert. — Caravans. The Simoom. — Various Phenomena attending it. — Columns of Sand. — The Oasis. — Temple of Ammon. — Consolations in the Desert. — Mount Atlas. — Country South of it, &c 139 CHAPTER VIII. Different People of Barbary.— Black.s.— Jews.— Christians.— Renegadoes.— Turks. —Chiloulis.— Berberi. — Bedouin Arabs.— Their Mode of Living.— Male and Female Costume. — Various Superstitions. — Occupations of the Arabs. — Riches. — Marriages among them. — Characteristic Anecdotes '63 CONTENTS. XXV PAGE. CHAPTER IX. Account of the Kabilesand Arab Tribes. — The Himas. — Tents. — Dowers. — Encamp- ments. — Dascars, or Arab Villages. — The Sheiks. — The Plundering Arabs. — Anecdotes respecting them 181 CHAPTER X. Description of the Moors.— Their Figure and Character. — Male and Female Costume. — Head Dress and Toilet. — Habitations.— Particular Manners and Customs.-- Marriages amongst the Moors, &c I'JS CHAPTER XI. Funeral Ceremonies and Lamentations over the Dead in Barbary. — Mourning of Widows. — Vows of Friendship and Fidelity made on the Graves of departed Rela- tives.^Table of the Moors. — Cuscousu. — Pillaw and Basseen. — Use of Sugar and Spices. — Yemen Cofifee.^Arausements of the Moors. — Method of enticing Birds. — Chess, and other Games of Chance. — Social Meetings. — The Kiosco. — Barber's Shops. — Moorish Baths. — Mode of Bathing. — Baths frequented once a Week by the Women. — Singers, and Dancing Girls. — Itinerant Story Tellers. — The Bastinado. —Life of the rich Moor 215 CHAPTER XII. Moorish Beauty. — Eyes and Features, Corpulency, and Mode of Fattening up before Marriage. — Criterion to judge of a fine Woman. — Complexion. — Embellishments extraordinary. — Comparison with European Ladies.— Vanity the ruling Principle. — Unhappy Condition of the Women in Barbary ; their State of Servitude and ill Treatment. — Ideas of the Moors with regard to their Creation. — Their premature old Age. — Their Jealousy. — Ridiculous Precautions to prevent Women from being seen or spoken to. — Inevitable Consequence of being discovered in an Intrigue. — Story of a Tunisian Lady. — Susceptibility and Power of Love. — Moorish Houses favourable to Intrigue. — Argusses occasionally outwitted. — Affectionate Conduct of the Moorish Ladies towards their Husbands, &c 232 d XXVI CONTENTS. PAGE. CHAPTER XIII. .state of Agriculture in Algiers. — Imperfect Mode of Ploughing. — Wine. — Butter. — Oil. — Olive Trees. — Method of enriching the Land. — Different Trades and Manu- factures. — Otto of Roses. — Commerce — Exports and Imports. — Traffic with the Interior of Africa. — Method of Dealing. — Circulating Medium. — Clipping. — Letters and Sciences. — Arab Writers. — Hints on Civilization. — Anecdote. — The Pen.— The Alfagui.— Their Pedantry.— The Thibibs.— Medical Treatment in Barbary. — Anecdotes, &c 245 CHAPTER XIV. State of the Arts in Barbary. — Curious Cement and Glue.— Languages of Northern Africa. — Anecdote. — Moorish Music. — Different Instruments. — Singing. — Islam- ism. — Ridiculous Customs. — Strict Observance of Fasts. — Sanctuary afforded by Mosques, &c. — Holy City. — Paradise of Musselmen. — Pilgrimage to Mecca. — Order of the March, and Allusion to the Ceremonies performed there.— Marabouts. — Anecdote.^ Vaili, or Saints, their Hypocrisy illustrated. — Facility of being canonized in Barbary. — The Mufti. — Their Office and Powers. — Mode of deciding legal Questions and administering the Laws.— The Imans. — The Muezzins, and Hours of Prayer. — The Koran. — Short Analysis of its Contents. — Anecdote of Dorat, the French Poet. — Commentators on the Koran, &c 263 CHAPTER XV. Nature of the Algerine Government. Its Character. — The Regency. — Divan. — Power of the Dey. — His Election, and Mode of conducting it. — Attributes and Prerogatives of the Dey. — Method of administering Justice. — Cause of his Popu- larity. — Dangers which environ a Dey's Person. — Anecdotes of some late Chiefs. — Fascinations of Power and Ambition. — Reply of a Polish Monarch.— Account of Ali Bassa, the reigning Dey. — His Death. — Anecdotes. — Notice of All's Suc- cessor, Mezouli. — Omar Aga. — The Council of State. — By whom it is generally composed. — Effects of a Dey's being dethroned. — Various Political Reflections. — Account of the different Officers composing the Dey's Administration. — Mode of the Consuls applying for Redress. — Description of inferior Officers. — General Character of the Dey's Ministers. — Remarks. — Anecdotes, &c 286 CONTENTS. XXVl) PAGf.. CHAPTER XVI. The Divan. — Its Character as a representative Body. — By whom composed. — Mode of assembling. — Discussion, and Collection of the Votes. — Revenues. — The Beys. — Their Rapacity. — Dey's Policy with regard to them. — The Caids, and their numerous Oppressions. — Account of the Chiaux, or Dey's Messengers. — Their Influence on the Multitude. — Reflections on Laws and Government. — Algerine Code. — The Cadi. — Their Appointment and Functions. — Civil Process in Barbary. — Ignorance of the Judges, and novel Mode of deciding Causes. — Remarks and Anecdotes.— Criminal Process. — Punishments inflicted for various Crimes. — Con- sequences of Adultery and Infidelity in the Females. — Punishment of Treason. — Debtors. — How treated. — Anecdote of Ibrahim Dey. — Effect of the Dey's personal Administration of Justice. — Anecdote of Cheban Dey. — Defects of the Algerine Law. — Excessive Severity of some Punishments. — Police Regulations of Algiers. — Nightly Patroles. — Espionage and Informers. — Subterfuges of arbitrary Power 307 CHAPTER XVII. Financial System of Algiers. — Various Modes of raising Money. — Hints to modern Financiers. — The Hasena, or public Treasury. — Reflections on the Advantages of hoarding.— Different Sources of the Dey's Revenue. — His praiseworthy For- bearance. — Anecdote of a Persian Prince. — Thoughts on the Use of Public Money. — Military Force of Algiers. — The Oldack, and Ortes. — Zouavi.— The Aga. — His Functions, and Mode of being replaced. — Account of the Aga del Campo, and Caia. — Mode of rewarding the Services of old Officers in Algiers. — Their Privileges. — Boulouc Bashas, and Vekilardi.- — Method of obtaining Rank and Pro- motion under the Algerine Government.- -Cursory Ideas on the Subject of Military Regulations in all Countries. — Quarters and Allowance of the Soldiery.— Their Pay. — Punctuality with which the Arrears are paid. — Ceremony observed on these Occasions. — Gradual Increase of the Soldier's Remuneration. — Different Modes of adding to it, and his Prospect of future Repose. — Account of the Algerine Army. — By whom composed. — Bedouin Cavalry. — Annual Operations to collect the Tribute, plunder the Tribes, &c. — Punishments awarded by the Caia. — ■ Order of the March. — General Treatment of the Soldiery. — Its Effects. — Qualities of the Dey's Army. — Its Operations left to the Direction of the General. — Councils of War.— Mode of Encamping, and Order of Battle. — Method of attacking, and cl 2 XXVin CONTENTS. PAGE. re-forming when put into Disorder. — General Character of the Algerine Soldiers. — Anecdote of an Italian Chief. — Character of the Turkish Militia. — Their Power over the Moorish Population. — Reflections. — Allusion to the Victories of Cheban Dey. — Characteristics of the Janizaries. — The various Advantages enjoyed by them over other Soldiers of Fortune 326 CHAPTER XVIII. Piracy. — The natural State of the Barbary Governments. — Their Political Maxims. — Their Interest in going to War. — Mode of declaring it, and making. Reprisals. — Treatment of European Consuls and Subjects.— Method of justifying their Policy with respect to Foreign Powers. — Mode of carrying on Hostilities. — Argu- ment in favour of it. — Northern Africa always the Retreat and Abode of Pirates. — Cursory View of their Depredations. — Of Captures. — Their Sale, and Distribution of Prize Money. — Mode of disposing of Slaves. — The Basistan. — Tegorarini — Occupation of Christian Captives. — Of Ransoming. — The Fathers of Redemption, or Trinity. — Their mode of proceeding in Algiers. — Efforts of the Author and others to promote the Liberation of Sicilian Slaves. — Allusion to the Exertions of the British Government to emancipate them. — Remarks in praise of the Conduct of those Italian .Sovereigns, who have made Peace with the Barbary Powers. — Various useful Hints to those who become Slaves. — Best Time of escaping. — Probable Result of a well organized Combination amongst the Christian Slaves at Algiers. — Observations, &c 343 CHAPTER XIX. Military and Naval Power of the Barbary States. — Tripoly. — Morocco. — T'houghts on the Views of the latter State. — Relations of the above States with .Algiers and each other. — Origin of their Independence. — Influence of the Ottoman Porte over the Barbarians. — Nature of its Relations with them. — Various Reflections on the Grand Seignor's Policy. — State of Political Relations between the Pirates and different European Governments 359 CHAPTER XX. Departure from Algiers. — Feelings on quitting Companions in Misfortunes. — Passage to Minorca. — Arrival at Port Mahon. — Entrance into the Lazzaretto. — Anecdote of a modern Traveller. — Theatrical Scenes. — Liberal Conduct of an CONTENTS. XXIX pagi;. English Consul. — Some Account of Minorca, and those with whom the Author became acquainted there. — Sir Sidney Smith. ^Embarks on board an Engli.sh Ship. — Passage to Sicily, and Arrival in Palermo. — Various Reflections on the Civil and Political State of the above Island. — Departure from SiciLY. — Reflec- tions during the Vo^'age. — Arrival at Ponza, together with some Account of that Island. — Return to Tuscany and Reflections suggested by it 369 CHAPTER XXI. Recent Conduct and new Insults of the Barbary Powers. — Negociations of Lord Exmouth, and General Sir Thomas Maitland. — Bombardment of Algiers. — Sub- mission of the Dey. — Observations on the Treaties lately made between the Euro- pean Powers and Barbary States. — Remarks on the Conduct of Great Britain, compared with that of other Governments. — Singular Enigma. — Reflections sug- gested by it. — Necessity of taking greater Precautions than those already adopted. — How far we are justified in relying on the Faith of Treaties. — Morality of a Barbary Chief. — His Motto. — Actual Disposition of these Powers, manifested by their general Conduct 388 CHAPTER XXII. Italy more exposed than ever to the Depredations of the Barbary Corsairs. — Conse- quences of no more Captives being made. — Prisoners of War. — Their probable Treatment by the Barbarians. — Illustrations. — Necessity, Justice, and Utility of more powerful Measures. — Various Reflections ; and Anecdote of an English Sea- man. — Importance to Europe of colonizing Northern Africa. — Its amazing Fecun- dity. — Facility of perefrating into the Interior from that Direction. — Splendor of the Enterprize. — Its Advantages to Antiquarian Research, Science, and the useful Arts. — Observations, &c 406 CHAPTER XXIII. Difficulties likely to attend the Enterprize. — Remarks on the Moorish Character. — Observations on the Result of those Expeditions hitherto sent again.st the Infidels. — Want of Union, and popular Nature of the Barbary Governments favourable XXX CONTENTS. PAGE. to an invading Army. — Reasons why the Moors are not likely to adhere to the Fortunes of their present Rulers. — As easy for the united Powers of Europe to colonize Northern Africa, as it was for single Nations of other Times to do so. — Hints to an invading Force. — Best Time to effect a Landing. — Kind of Warfare most adapted to Africa.- — Necessity of Perseverance. — Importance of calling in the Aid of Political Intrigue. — Comparison between the Moors and savage Nations. — Probability of the former's adopting European Manners and another Religion.- — Singular Tradition prevalent in Barbary. — Recollections by which an European Army would be animated on landing in Africa. — Why that part of the World is not as susceptible of undergoing a great political Change as other Countries. — Necessity of employing a sufBcient Force, and of the Powers of Europe being unanimous in the Cause. — Nations that ought to direct the League. — Reflections 417 CHAPTER XXIV. Author's Motives for proposing the Colonization of Northern Africa. — Most equi- table Line of Policy to be pursued, should a Descent ever be made m that Country. — Anecdote and Reflections. — Appeal to Princes, Ministers, People, Philosophers, Orators, Poets, and periodical Writers of every Country. — Eulogium on the Anti- Piratical Institution. — Conclusion 429 /^ .^' w* V»! 4- ;/ iir -*^ i^ y I. »>9,.rfl ,^^ *i^ !§^ J « t il "St::? < > ai >5 >, ^ S'^^' - "S ?-^ I r -5 1: 4 -3 -I -I i .; 5; t; ^ I :| 1 -è t: I,- 1; 4 h .■ 5 a ^■ £ ■-; ^ S: "^ -: 5 ?-■ > •-,■ -K n ic c^;" t-;" ^ S» S ''. •<"^' V '« < 5. -^ S; ^. 'C " 'i C i < :*: c* =■ ^ 'it -J Is i: C- aj a- 8: ^' L U^ ^ ^ u; si ■:<-■< ^ i^ g- a; ^ a; =^; t^ ^ ^ ^ NARRATI VE OF A VOYAGE TO ALGIERS. CHAPTER I. Memoirs. — Origin of the Voyage. — Fatal Delay. — Thames. — 7%e Ocean. — Continuance of the Voyage. — Rencontre. — Coast of Fez. — Straits and Bay of Gibraltar. — Passage up the Mediterranean. — Arrival at the Island of San Pietro. We are daily in the habit of hearing people exclaim : " WJiat strange adventures mine have been ! Why, Sir, my life is a per- fect romance! I have really a great mind to write my history V* When those who have played an important part in the theatre of life, and made sublime experiments on fortune, fall from power and splen- dor, they naturally enough become a prey to ennui : in order, how- ever, to shed a little light on the obscurity of their retieat, to pre- serve some recollection of that name, gloiy, and even life ; which, to use the expression of Pope, seems to breathe from other lips ; they take to writing their warlike and political actions — and being no lon- ger able to wield the sword or staif of office, have recourse to the pen : reuu)ved from the worldly stage, by choice or necessity, they assume the more modest part of authors. Hence the numberless vo- lumes constantly appearing with the flattering titles of if/^'wioirs, His- lorical. Political and Military ; including the campaigns of (iene- :V' 2 MEMOIR!^. ral **^.'^*, written hy himself. Mes rejieixions, mon prnfefeuiUe, mes pensées, tiies sotireiiirs ! &cc. Far from being ul»le to boast of public iiotoricly, J liuve found myself fallen to the lo\\est ebb of fortune, and shall aeeordingly de- tail my ill-fated adventnres ; but the following narrative will only include a short period, which was, however, the most tempestuous of my whole life, if that which has been so ii'aught with struggles and calamity is worthy of the name ! A certain people of antiquity only counted their days of happiness; amongst whom, a wise man on the point of death, wrote this epitaph for himself: / hare passed Jiftij-six years, and lired four ! All who contend in the stormy sea of human vicissitude, may be compared to those emblems of alternate happiness and misery, who, after having tasted nectar, at the table of the gods, sorrowfully descended into the region of shadows ; joy and pleasure passes over the heart like the transient breath of zephyrs; while it is furrowed by endless griefs and bitter cares. Shakspear has somewhere obsened, that felicity comes slowly, and in silence, advancing on tiptoe like a nocturnal visitant ; while misfortune attacks in close battalions, those, who are destined to be the victims of its inflexible decrees. Man is a querulous ami dissatisfied animal! The most common exclamations of the day are, " Oh, what times! What places! What people! What women! What devils!^' ^V^e are always tired of the situation in which we are, and vainly wishing to be where we are not. By a strange fatality, connected with that love of change .so peculiar to our nature, it occurred to myself, and a few others of my counti'ymen to abandon England; that envied nation, which has alone remained inishaken, amidst the political agitations of surround- ing states, and generously opened its bosom to the exiled wanderers of other countries, equally fostering the native plant, and foreign stem, blown upon its coast by the revolutionaiy tempest. Yes! anx- ious once more to behold my native land, and breathe the delightfid OR ir, IN or TMR VOYVCK. Ì? air of an Italian sky. J no ioniser remeinbrrcd the words of a oelebratt'd poet tliat, Bramo di meglio star, rciule infelice ; or, that Ave can no Avhere be so ^v^^\ situated as amongst our friends. It was reserved for me to learn, by bitter experience, that liappiness has iU source within ourselves, and does nan to collect at Spit- head. Having, therefore, made tin- usual preparations for a sea voy- age, I hastened to join the other passengers, who were embarkeya flat contradici ion, plausibly gives you the lie, he \y\exe\y begs jiardon : so it iswilh the intruder on your 6 A BRAVE SKIPPER. studies, or more importunate creditor: ail in tliis world is rendered palatable by asking pardon, and I am even obliged to solicit that oC the reader, for this unseasonable digression. While thus impatiently looking forward to the moment of sailing, what was our mortification on seeing the departure of the convoy announced? The so much dreaded event, which at once exposed us to the danger of crossing the ocean without protection, and liable to capture by numerous enemies, our only consolation in this dilemma, was a pompons oration fronr the skipper, who differed iVom us in toto as to the perils of our impending situation, and triumphantly con- cluded several impertinent remaiks, by draAving his own pane- gjTic, in which after deriding our childish apprehensions, he re})re- sented himself as a most experienced seaman, and so excellent a navigator, that in addition to his perfect knowledge of tlie winds, stars, latitudes, and longitudes, he recollected all the bays, headlands, rocks, and shoals in our course, as w ell as his avemariu ! He doubt- less, in this moment of exultation, fancied himself another Typhis; and like Caesar seemed to imagine that his fortune would carry us through every difficulty. Without entering into the merits of this boaster, we soon after had many o|)portunities of witnessing the usual effect of pride and presumption; for notwithstanding all his gascon- ading, he was guilty of innumerable blunders during the whole course of the voyage. That which aParisian wit said of an author, who had been much praised for a forthcoming production, which totally disap- pointed public expectation, might with ecjiial j)ropriety be applied to our Palinurus: — Nous lui avons avance des orands fonds, il nous a fait òanqncroute. The vessel's name was the Hero, aiul by a singular coincidence of rhetorical contrivance, it was also that of the commander. We had, however, no cause to congratulate oiu'selves on h is Ao/-f/MT//// attributes, and would have most willingly dispensed with such flattering epithets for a little more solidity. Without being the first who had been sacri- ficed to the folly or ambition of a hero ; this was not the only occa- THE THAiVIES. 7 sioii HI which I was taught to cons'ider that, as the most i'atai present which Providence can bestow on mankind. Having, at lengtli, got under weigh, we proceeded down the Than)es. It is scarcely possible to conceive a more interesting spectacle than is presented by tliis magnilicent stream, witli its prodigions num- ber of shipping, concentrating as it were the commercial s[)irit of the univeise, and whose masts form a perfect forest from London bridge, till you descend several miles. There is even an indescribable majesty in the stately undulation of this beautiful river, which is not a little heightened bj^ the ronuuitic and picturesque olyectsthat adorn its banks, often the theme of poetic admiration : it has nowhere been desciibed with more force and dignity than in the celebrated Coo- per's Hill of Sir John Denham : Tho' deep yet clear, tho' gentle yet not dull, .Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full. I have ever been a passionate admirer of running waters, so in- strumental in keeping up the communication, and maintaining the prosperity of states. The philosopher gravely meditates on the suc- ceeding wave, and rapidity of the passing stieam. Poets delight to wander under the melancholy shade of the drooping willow ; the ex- ile, the lover, and the wretched, sigh in unison with the nuirmurinc,- cascade, Super Jlumina Babilonis sedimus etjlevivius! Rivers have a great analogy to the heart, and reflections of the earthly pilgrim. They seem to accompany our wandering thoughts; reminding us of the rapidity of life, and its more fleeting pleasures i they are, in fact, the image of human vicissitudes. Men, their con- cerns, events and interests, are precipitated, clash, and succeed each other like the ceaseless torrent ; even nations may be said to flow and pass on to the ocean of time, finally losing themselves in the vast sea of oblivion. 8 PARTING WITH FRIENDS. Haviui»- quitted the Thames, and sailed along the coast of Kent, we had a fine view of Dover cliff, immortalized in the sublime verses of Sliakspeare, and in which some poets have recognized the genius of Albion, like a colossus, extending its hospitable arms to friendly nations. Adieu ! great and powerful sovereign of the ocean ; adieu, happy country, in which the law governs, and is tempered by mercy ; where a protecting genii siili cherishes that divine spark of ' heavenly fiame,' which, according to Plato, is developed in those climates favourable to liberty' and virtue ; where, in fine, as observed by the Prince de Ligne, prosperity, freedom, and abundance, appear to contend for pre-eminence; and from which wealth, beauty, and intel- lect ought long since to have banished that splenetic and morbid me- lancholy, which has sometimes been laid to the charge of its national character. Farewell, dear and respected friends, who by so many proofs of benevolent attention, will ever live in my warmest recollec- lections. That your evening of life may not be interrupted by any of those clouds which impede the progress of happiness : Yes T my kind friends, gratitude and affection bid me express an ardent hope that yours may be a trancpiil day, so justly merited by hearts fraught with honour and generosity.* - * Such are the very flattering sentiments of gratitude and applause, suggested by the liberal and discriminating mind of Mr. Pananti, forming a most striking contrast with the conduct of many French emigrants, who had much more reason to sing the praises of Great Britain; and have, since the restoration of the Bourbons, either forgotten or despised that credulous benefactress, when no longer required to support their broken fortunes. Many of our countrymen, whom the travelling mania have induced to give up the une- qualled comforts of England, for the insult, robbery, and extortion of the continent, will bear me out iu asserting that gratitude is not a prevailing characteristic of La grande Na- tion : a fact strongly exemplified in the conduct of great numbers of emigrants, amongst whom, however, 1 feel much pleasure in acknowledging there are many, possessing both talents and virtue. While at Paris, in the summer of 1816, a young medical student, who had formerly been attached to the military profession, and for six weeks gratuitously attended the Count M , after a severe fall from his horse, and whom the capricious wheel has placed in the household of Louis le desire, took occasion, in consequence of the previously extorted promise to that effect, to leave his card at the Count's, then basking in FRENCH SCRIBBLERS. 9 The ancients had two amiable divinities, sacred to al)senoe and separation : one of these consoling deities, presided over those tender friends, whose parting- was blended with hopes of meetina: again. The other supported those who were left behind, and destined to an- ticipate the beloved object's return. Let us indulge a hope, that such soothing genii have not ceased to sympathize in our feelings, and that their influence is still exerted over kindred minds, whose hearts, the rays of the Tuileries. Some days after M. le Compie returned the vi.sit, and afU-r expending a volume of unmeaning compliments, during which tout ce qu'lL avoit was libe- rally placed at the disposal of my friend Mr. B , he retired with a solemn request that whenever he was inclined to see the opera, he had only to send for the Count's key ! This, I venture to say, is a fair specimen of that kind of return which many others have experienced under similar circumstances ; and I defy the lying and ignorant scribbler of Quinze Jours, and Six Mots à Loìidres, to disprove it; who, by the way of at once making himself popular in France, and displaying his exquisite knowledge in the fine arts, modestly as.serts that the sign-post decorations of Vauxhall, equalled any thing he saw at the Spring Garden exhibition ! ! ! If the wretched followers of the contemptible Pillet, who in a note prefixed to the last edition of Six Alois à Lo7idres, say with equal modesty and truth, that " tons les Anglais de bonne foi" agree to the principal points of his execrable trash, I would recommend the consideration of anecdotes like the above, which tend in some small degree to unmask a nation, that has hitherto exclusively arrogated to itself the first rank in gallantry and politeness. Having alluded to travelling, I cannot close this note, without cordially joining in that strong feeling of regret, which the thoughtless spirit of emigration has so justly excited ia every unbiassed friend of his country: a spirit which, I venture to prophecy, will in the end be more injurious to the happiness of its advocates, than to the nation : which, how- ever severely it may now feel their absence, must, in the course of a little time, Ifearn to despise those, who having fattened on its prosperity, leave it at a period of national distress, when their continuance at home could not fail to have beeu eminently beneficial to the community. The easy facility with which so many families of opulence and dis- tinction continue to squander the treasures of the mother country on the continent, is certainly not the most amiable feature of the times we live in. And upon what pretences do they justify such a line of conduct? Change of air, cheap living, and the education of their children ! The absurd futility of these reasons, will, I am sure, be acknowledged by two thirds of the English residents now in France : which number, if the mass of information I have received be correct, have abundant cause to regret their having ever left England. When the arrangements which oblige them to remain there for the present, are at an end, it is hoped that the salutary experience of emigration, aided by tiome small sense of patriotism, will lead to their return. To parents and guardians I would briefly C 10 - EMIGRATION. no distance should separate. The last glance of England, was by myself and companions, attended with a feeling of regret only to be conceived by those in similar sitnations. If, says an ingenious living poet,* Adieu, dare not be prononnced; it ought to be at least indicated by a sigh; expressed, it should expire on the lips; and when written, be blotted out with a tear ! To those unpracticed in a sea life, the moment which detaches say, that a knowledge of French, dancing, and music, are but ill exchanged for the destruction of morals. And as to the uniform hatred to England, constantly manifested by extortion, abuse, and shameful partiality, it is too notorious to require illustration. The public has been made tolerably well acquainted with the demoralized state of our neighbours, their thorough contempt of religion, and all those minor virtues dependant on it, by which society can alone be held together. With all this before their eyes, from the most authentic sources, individuals can have no excuse for seeking that happiness abroad, which they have hitherto looked for in vain, except by moderating their views, and quietly sitting down in their own country. What would one of those scribbling calumniators, who have been enriched by abusing the British nation, have said, if after having paid for his dinner in a London coffee-house, and when about to retire, he, together with his friend, were called upon to pay a second time, their decorous remonstrance had induced the landlord to call in a file of grenadiers, who after an unmerciful beating, dragged them to a dungeon six feet by eight, and keeping them three days without any communication with their friends, then condescended to turn them into the street, without farther redress or explanation ? What, I will ask, would one of these barefaced liars say, if after having hired a boat to descend the Thames, embarked himself and property in it, paid the price of his agreement in advance, the boatman took an opportunity of landing him on the way, and then setting off without him, but taking off his effects ; and who on being afterwards disco- vered with the siokn goods upon his person, was regularly consigned to the hands of justice, but quietly liberated in three days without the smallest punishment ? What would any liberal Frenchman say, if either of the above circumstances had befallen him in Lon- don, as they have to others of my acquaintance in France? Which Mr. De C can attest, both instances having actually occurred during his own administration. Let us, therefore, hear no more of the Code Napoleon ; but rather bear those ills we have. Than fly to others that we know not of. Ed. ^ * Mr. William Spencer, a friend of the author. Some days after this sheet was revised, a writer in the Morning Chronicle favoured the public with the following neat paraphrase : An adieu should in utterance die — If written, but faintly appear — Only heard in the bursi ol' a t-itrh — Only seen in the drop of a tear. Ed. LORD BYRON. 11 you fVoni land, ami all tho busy scenes of social life, is partirularly saddening'; the lanitrary power, statinn, amongst other tine maxims, that a captain was king on board his own ship, and his will the law!* 1 now thought it was high time to make some reply to this self-created and bombastic sovereign, particularly as I lelt biit too miuh interest in the reasoning of his men, and recollecting what Seneca had on a former occasion said to Nero, told him", in somewhat of a ])eremptory tone to remember, hlspoirer was at an end where justice terminated; that having violated his wTitten agreement to sail with convoy, it would be seen, if ever we reached Sicily, Avho was most entitled to a place in the dungeons to which he so confidently alluded. Had this harangue been properly supported by my fellow passengers, the hero would most likely have lowered his pretensions ; but though very ami- able personages, they were unfortunately deficient on this occasion, and apprehensive lest the dispute should take a more serious turn, were, during its continuance, occupied in restraining me by repeating the old worn-out arguments of " where's the necessity for entering into the crowd to be trampled upon 1" " Command who can, obey who ouglit!" " The ass must follow his master;" '• One fool is enough to command in the same house !" and similar consolatory phrases, all calculateil to precipitate the fate which awaited us. Nor was it the first time 1 had reason to believe, that in all the great concerns of life, judgment and talent are less frequently wanted, than disposition and character. It is, perhaps, equally tiue, that more mischief arises from indecision and want of confidence, than the opposite extremes of temerity and pre- sumption. In the present instance, my incredulous companions seemed to lose their usual habits of reflection. Viewing the captain's proceedings * This is by no means a new doctrine, for until very lately it was not only preached but practiced in the ships of another country : but it is only justice to add, that owing to a number of highly useful regulations and restrictions, adopted widiin iJie last few years, it is now pretty well exploded. As to the improvements alluded to, it is sincerely to be hoped, they are only preludes to others of still greater importance and utility. — Ed. D 2 ' 20 PLEASITRES OF A SEA-VOYAGE. as being- founded on his boasted experience, they determined patiently to await the result of liis arrangements ; and, as if destiny had interfered, appeared to feel as much indifference as if ive were merely going to a liall or a wedding. Their fancied security, in so uncertain a position, reminded me of a story which is told of a poor man, who, during an inundation of the Arno at Pisa, was carried away by the torrent while attempting to lay hold of a large beam he saw floating down. In this extremity, when there seemed to be no chance of his gaining land, and a large concourse of people had already collected on the banks, exclaiming, " poor man ! there is no chance of safety ; you will surely become food for the fishes." " Oh dear !" says another ; " what will be- come of his unfortunate wife and children I" When the lamentations had subsided a little, the object of them, still clinging to the beam, looked up, and very deliberately said, " for my part, ladies and gen- tlemen, I hope for the best !" Madame du Deffand once observed that she only knew three sorts of people, des frompeurs, des trovipés, et des trompettes. No sooner had that of our redoubtable Astalfo been sounded by my friends, than his crest became immediately elevated, and without farther ceremony he weighed anchor and stood out of Gibraltar, with the illusory pro- mise, however, of touching at Minorca, for the purpose of accompany- ing the first English ship of war, that left that island for Sicily. In the course of our navigation along the Spanish coast, I frequently (ook occasion to remind him of his promise, and even strongly sug- gested the prudence of such a measure; forgetting with Machiavel, Ihat fools never take advice, or the still more apposite injunction of another writer, not to give your counsel to those who appear most in want of it. So far, therefore, from his shewing any disposition to gratify us in this particular, he evidently adopted a course which niu'^t inevitably take us many leagues nearer the coast of Barbary. f)ne of the few pleasines attendant on a sea voyage, is that of occasionally enjoying the comfort of a good dinner, and more enli- vening glass of wine ; but with our bounteous caterer even that COMFORTS OF TFIR TARLF. 21 consolation was denied. A preaclier, wlio liad not received one invi- tation to dine out, diuin;^ a whole Lent, declared, in his last seiuion, that he had preached against every sin except gluttony ; and that was a vice which he was glad to see did not seem to predominate in the neighbourhood ! For the information of those who may at any future period, undertake a voyage by water, it may not be altogether useless to give a short specimen of our fare on l>oard the Hero. It consisfed of a little musty rice plentifully mingled with stones, and evidently the .sweepings of some store-room; salt meat, not unlike half tanned lea- ther, and which, from tlie difficulty of extricating it out of the teeth, created a constant tooth-ache. As to wine, it was fairly out of the question ; nor did the provident steward even lay in a small stock of beer, so cheap an article in the country we had left. Our usual l)everage, therefore, was made up of putrid water, which it was attempted to render palatable by a dash of vinegar. If the occasional intermi.ssion of sea-sickness created a little appetite, this chalice of bitterness soon destroyed it ; and by a refinement in his mode of tor- menting the poor passenger, wlienever the hour of refreshment arrived, I perceived that the vessel was then placed in the most uneasy posi- tion the master could contrive ; for to him nothing was so mortitying as seeing any of his unfortunate victims enjoy their dinner. We had but too frequently reason, in this hungry state, of calling to mind the ill-fated story of Ugolino ; nor was our ship inaptly com- pared to the tower in which he perished.* Judging from the meagre * This allusion will doubtless remind the Italian reader of that wonderfully sublime passage of the Inferno, in which the famished Count relates the harrowing narrative of his confinement m (he Torre della Fame. Quel dì, e l'altro stemmo tutti muti : ■ . Ahi dura terra, perchè non l'apristi ? • . Posciachè fummo al quarto dì venuti, Gaddo mi si gilto distesò a' piedi. Dicendo : Padre mio, che non m'ajuiij V. Cam. xxxiii. , The following 22 AMUi?lNG BRAVERY. and wretched appearance of myself and companions, it was, I think, well said by the Prince of Orange, " that in a three days regimen he would make a poltroon of the bravest man in his army." As to these little digressions, not immediately connected with the main object of publishing, it is hoped they will be excused, on the score of their melancholy importance to the writer. Enough will follow to excite feelings of a very different nature ; but as a French traveller says, dans un hatiment qnoi faire à moins qu'on ne conte? and I am not the first scribbler, who, for the purpose of giv- ing more unity to his narrative, has led his reader gradually on to the catastrophe. When, at Scarron's petits soupers, the second course was not ready, the cook used to whisper in the ear of Madame S. afterwards the celebrated Maintenon, so famous for anecdotes and hons mots, " have the goodness to amuse the company with a story, as the roast meat is not quite done." For several days after leaving the coast of Catalonia, we had an ample opportunity of witnessing the sad effects of war, and those anti-social decrees of the belligerents, which seemed to extinguish all the connnercial intercourse of nations. In a rvm of four or five hun- dred miles, we only encountered two vessels. One having a suspicious appearance, our captain prudently kept aloof; for he too, was amongst the number of those, who thought with Falstaff, that prudence is the better part of valour ; with the other we came into more immediate contact : she proved to be an unarmed Neapolitan, and no sooner was this circumstance ascertained, than our bombastic skipper deter- Thp following attempt at translation, will give some idea of its divine original: Unwilling thus to aggravate (heir woes. Gloomy and calm, attendant on the close Of all our pangs, 1 sale, revolving slow ; Two days succeed — the fourth pale morning broke, " O Father, help ! I feel the deadly stroke!" My Gaddo cry'd, and sunk beneath the blow I — Boyd. Ed. SIGNS OF PIUATRS. 2-J miiie;ood wine; and the higher grounds are well stocked with game. Its tunny tishery is one of the most celebrated in all the Mediterranean. The inhabitants possess a high character, for honest simplicity, industry, and civility towards strangers. Being in great harmony with each other, they would enjoy all the blessings of such attributes, were it not for the continued incursions of the Barbarv corsairs. The Tunisians landed here about forty years ago, and desolated the island from one end to the other; taking off nearly all the defenceless inhaliitants. A similar visit was paid, not more than seven years ago, by the assassins of Algiers, who have also very lately committed another most daring outrage on the same luifortunate people. In a .state of incessant alarm, with their past sufferings constantly before them, they were described to us in all the unadorned and simple colouring of nature : nor did this take away from the horrors which had befallen many of them. These .stories generally ended by kiiully warning us of the dangers which might attend leaving the port without convoy. We were farther informed that the squadrons of Algiers and Tripoli were cruizing in the vicinity ; the boats of the former had even landed some evenings before, taking off a large quantity of cattle and a boy. They also related the melancholy story of the Chevalier Seratti,* who had lately fallen into the hands of the Tunisians, and since became a victim of their ferocity. Under such menacing appearances, we were entreated upon no * The Chevalier was formerly prime minister in Tuscany, and a Sicilian counsellor of state, possessing a high character for intelligence, zeal and probity. One of his first mea- sures, when appointed some years ago governor of Leghorn, was to intercede with the Grand Duke, and obtaining the liberation of all the Tunisian slaves brought into that port. Who could have then foreseen, that in his latter years, he would himself be conducted a slave to Tun«, and finally perish there 1 E '2(i FLATTERING DELUSION. account to venture out till things looked better ; and did not fail to impress the necessity of following this friendly advice on the mind of our obstinate captain : who, without absolutely denying its justice, or communicating his real intentions, suffered us to retire to rest, in the flattering belief that we should not only have an opportunity of revi- siting our new friends next day, but of remaining in port till a better time of sailing arrived. UNEXPECTED DEPARTURE. 27 CHAPTER II. Imprudent Departure from San Pietro. — Presentimeuts. — Appearance of the Algerine Squadron. — Capture by the Pirates. — Captive taken before the Admiral. — First Night on hoard the Corsair. — Second Day. — Storm. — Naval Engagement. — Union of the Captives. — Treatment on board the Cor- sairs of Barbar y. — Situation improved. — Hojie. — The Rals Hamida. — Coaist o/ Italy. — Council of War.^War between Tcms awrf Algiers. — Histo- rical Notice of Tunis.^The Revolution. — Tlie Squadron appears before Tunis, and retires.— Coasting, and Arrival at Bona. Nature was stlll enveloped in her starry mantle ; and the goddess of night in her ebon car, silently wandered tlirongh the heavens, when confused noises, as if created by a general movement on board the vessel, suddenly awoke the sleeping passengers, who, upon ascending the deck, beheld, with a mingleil feeling of sorrow and indignation, that the anchor was up, and sails spread for the purpose of once more incurring the many dangers, which had been so emphatically described by the faithful isliinders, whose friendly admonitions were completely thrown away on our besotted and ignorant conductor. While steering out of the bay, the boat returned on board, wlien the person who had been despatched in her, to execute some little commission for the cap- tain, told us, with fear and trembling, notwithstanding his being cautioned to the contrary, that the report of cannon was heard; supposed to be signals of alarm, from San Pietro and the Peninsula of Antioch, a place to the northward. In this fearful extremity, we naturally supplicated the master to return into port, pointing out the imminent peril whicli attended e2 28 ' PASSENGERS. going to sea under such circumstances. But he was deaf to every enti'eaty, and even assumed a most insolent tone, when rem nded of Jiis solemn engagement to sail with convoy ; finally observing, that he had originally sailed for Sicily, and to Sicily he would go ! Would to Heaven that our just indignation had prompted us to adopt a more determined course with regard to this wretch, o?i so emergent an occasion ; or that some resolute mind, like Rousseau's Emilius in a like dilemma, had avenged his companions in misfor- tune, by liberating the earth from such a traitor, and tlie sea of such a monster. After having nearly terminated the voyage, and arrived within a few days sail of the much desired port, to have thus been mercilessly exposed to so great a calamity was most distressing ; surely our past sufferings merited a better fate ! The poor seamen were full of anxious hope, at the idea of revisiting their wives and families : nearly all of them had brought little ventures, the result of their hard-earaed wages, and chief source of consolation on returning homewards ; while the day of their arrival was fondly anticipated to be one of rejoicing and hilarity. It was impossible to have found better disposed characters fhan these unfortunate victims of rashness and imbecility. The passengers too, of whom I have hitherto been silent, were all persons of the highest merit. The Chevalier Rossi, possessing a most honourable mind, and liberal sentiments, was returning from England with all the information which that enlightened countiy ailbrds to foreign visitors, accompanied by his wife, an amiable and accomplished Avoman, together with two lovely children, the offspring of their luiion. An industrious and honest merchant, Mr. Teireni of Leghorn, was taking out merchandize of great value, the result of his judicious speculations in Great Britain ; Antonio Terreni, his bro- ther, an artist of great merit ; who was going to Sicily for the purpose of making a picturesque tour through the island, as he had already done, with so much eclat in Tuscany ; a Calabrese, who had served for many years in the British navy, and was returning home to enjoy l'avara per amore. '29 tlie fruits oflii^sexertions while absent ; also, a beautiful woman eoing to join her liusband, who was on his return from the Kast Indies. After a variety of stranne vi<;issitu as shortly after to follow. Had the tattered state of the vessel, and her heavy sailing- been considered, the imprudence of thus going into the very face of such enemies m as self-evident. While in this state of painfid suspense, a sudden squall from off the land, carried away our main-top-mast, which, in its fall, nearly ovei-whelmed the captain. Once, while M. de Calonne was reclining on his luxurious feathers, the top of his bed fell in, and would have, most probably, suffocated the ex-minister, had not prompt assistance been given. A gentleman who saw him in this state, immediately ex- claimed, "just heaven !"* Without exactly wishing to see our comman- der expiate his obstinacy and folly, by falling under the mast, I could not, at the time, help considering its vicinity to his skull, as a spe- cies of providential warning for him to return into port, or make for Cagliari, which was not veiy distant. But it had no such effect : the atmosphere became every moment more obscure, a roaring noise of the waves was heard in tlie distance, and deep peals of thunder began to issue from the clouds which were collecting all round : these, together with a strong wind and high sea, ushered in the first night after our quitting San Pietro. O Navis ! referent in mare te novi Fluctus? 01 quid agis? Fortiter occupa Portum. Nonne vides, ut Nudum remigio latus, * This anecdote loses all its point by translation, and requires to be explained. The tester of a bed is called del (heaven) in French, and cielo in Italian : so that the pun alluded to, turned upon the minister's friend exclaiming juste del ! — Ed. APPEARANCE OP PIRATES. iJI Et malus celeri sauri us Africo Antennseque gemuut ; ac sine funibns Vix durare carinrR Possint iinperiosius ^quor ?* Car. xiv. It was in vain to expect any repose, in this state of fearfnl appre- liension; and no sooner had the weariness, occasioned by several hours rocking about in my wretclied cell, produced a disposition to sleep, than the Chevalier Rossi came witli a tremulous voice, to inforni me, that the very same vessels, seen previous to our entering San Pietro, were just discovered! Hurrying out of bed, I sprang on deck where all was anguish and contusion. Having hastily interrogated the pilot and seamen, their answers consisted of broken sentences and significant inclinations of the head. Tlie strange sails, six in number, were almost at this time imperceptible specks in the horizon; but fi'om the ideas naturally associated with their sudden appearance, the panic was dreadful, what with reality, and the force of imagination. Stimulated by our fears, tljeir size gradually increased, and from the disastrous result, might justly be compared to tho.se phenomena of the ocean, so much dreaded by mariners, which, from the most inconsider- able spot in the atmosphere advance by slow degrees, until bursting on their heads, they are instantly buried in the waves. Scarcely had the first emotions of alarm been developed, when a particular manoeuvre of the strangers, clearly manifested their hos- tile intentions : this, on being perceived, was followed by a burst of Unhappy vessel ! Shall the waves again Tumultuous bear thee to the faithless main ? What would thy madness, thus with storms to sport? Cast from your anchor in the friendly port. Behold thy naked decks ; the wounded mast And sail-yards groan beneath the southern blast. Nor without ropes thy keel can longer brave. The rushing fury of th' imperious wave. Francis. 32 irOPES OF ESCAPE. horror, from all on board ; and in the general alarm, the seaman's efforts to miike sail, and conduct us into safety, seemed only to increase the confusion, being calculated rather to precipitate the fatal event than otherwise. Agitation is not activity, and naval or military opera- tions, Avithout a design, are more likely to disconcert, than forward objects. By a dreadful fatality, the wind, which had until now blown with great violence, suddenly ceased ; so that we found ourselves, in a moment, totally incapalde of changing the vessel's po.sition. As to the captain, he was dumb with amazement; and, notwithstanding his former boasting, remained conn^letely inactive, having lost all power of exertion : and in those situations to be idle, or uncollected, is to give up every hope of escape. A light breeze having sprung up, we suggested the idea of making sail towards the land, and after all, we had the alternative of taking to the long boat : the proposition was hardly made, when the master pointed towards one of the enemy's vessels to leeward, which cut off our retreat in that direction. Igno- rant of the degree of credit to which his reasoning was entitled, he made no efforts, either for defence or escape. The enemy, when tirst seen, were at least fifteen miles off; while the coast of Sardinia was not more than a third of that distance. Even the barbarians after our capture, said that we had a bad Rais ; as, if we had made the slightest movement towards reaching the shore, they would not have attempted to follow us ; but seeing our total inactivity, and a seeming disposition to approach, rather than get away, they thought us enchanted, and according to their own emphatical expression, dragged along by the dark spirit of our ine- vitable ruin. All was terror and dismay on board the Sicilian. I know not what chilling hand oppresses the Christian heart, on the appearance of Barbary corsairs : like the head of Medusa, it seemed to petrify every person on board. It was now, that as in all great disasters, instead of mutual support and encouragement, a sentiment of hatred is instantly generated ; the fire of discord bursts forth amongst the PllOSPRCT OF CAPTURE. 33 roinpanions of mistortune, :ind intestine war is kindled on public desolation. One of onr men, who had been in shivery at Sallee, anrance, inspired l)y a feeline," of des|)eration, rushed up to the captain, and wouhl have certainly plunged a stiletto in his heart, had not myself and the other passengers promptly interfered. Another, still more infuriated, seized a tire-brand, and was, by absolute force, prevented from applyina; it to the powder magazine ; some were for destroying themselves on board ; others proposed jumping into the sea, and thus defeating the triumph of their enemies. This state of suffering and despair having subsided, it was shortly succeeded by a deep and mournful silence ; after m hich, the sailors were obsei-ved to descend, one by one, into the hold, there to await the event. As to us passengers, we remained on deck, deeply meditating on, and watching oiu- approaching ruin. The master, who had never been in the habit of standing at the helm, now took possession of it ; and, profiting by the light air that blew, gradually turned the vessel's head towards the pirates, so that we advanced to them, instead of waiting their arrival. Several hours passed in this cruel and trembling perplexity ; it was like sipping the poisoned draught. On the barbarians getting near us, we could easily distinguish their horrid yells ; and innumera- ble turbans soon appeared along their decks. It was now that the last ray of hope abandoned the least terrified amongst us; and, as if elec- trified by the same shock, we fled from the horrid spectacle, each hiding himself in the best way he could below, there patiently to wait the grand catastrophe which threatened us. . When every exertion, whether of the mind or body, becomes no longer availing, the human heart falls into a species of stupor and frigid tranquillity, which may truly be called the last stage of suffer- ing. It was thus, that a Canadian savage, while sitting in his canoe above the great fall of Niagara, had the rope which fastened her to the shore, cut by one of his enemies, and was fast driving towards "34. TAKKX BY THE ALOERINES. the tremeinlovxs calaract. la this extremity, he made every exertion, that force, courage, and resohition conhl suggest, to avoid the threat- ened danger; but, perceiving troni the lapidity of tlie stream, that there was no cliance of escape, he tranquilly laid his paddie aside, and, stretching himself along the bottom of the canoe, with his head covered — was dashed down the foaming abyss ! But now the terrible moment has at length arrived, and witli it, the greatest misfortune which can possibly befall a human being. The shout of the barbarians are heard close to us. They appear on deck in swarms, with haggard looks, and naked scimetars, prepared for boarding; this is preceded by a gun, the sound of which was like the harbinger of death to the trembl ing captives, all of M'hom expected to be instantly sunk ; it was the signal for a good prize : a second gun announced the capture, and immediately after they sprang on board, in great numbers. Their first movements were confined to a menacing display of their bright sabres and attaghans ; M'ith an order for us, to make no resistance, and sur- render ; which it was hardly necessary to repeat, we had only to obey ; and this ceremony being ended, our new visitors assumed a less austere tone, crying out intheirLinirua Franca, No pauro ! ]Vopauro ! " Dont be afraid." After this rum w as called for, then the keys of our trunks ; w hen, dividing our party into two divisions, one was ordered into the pirates' l)oat, and convened to the admiral's frigate, while the other remained liehind under the care of several jMoors, who had taken charge of the vessel. I was amongst the nvimber of those transferred, and in putting oif from the brig, joined my companions in a speechless adieu of those we left behind. Cruel iatality ! The boat had scarcely put ofi', and began to row towards ihe Algerine, when the breeze, which we had for so many hours vainl}' prayed for, and even one hour before might have seen us in safety, suddenly sprang up, accompanied with dark clouds, which was soon followed ]>y torrents of rain. The Moors, only intent on securing their victims, cheerfully howled to the blast, while we remained absorbed in gloomy silence. On o-ainiiiir tlie frigate we had no sooner got upon deck, thai), the liarl)arians uttered a general cry of victory, usual when any cap- tures are made. A savage joy seemed to play on their cadaverous aspects. A passage being opened for us l)etween the armed Turks au\ atches, rings, and every other article of value we had about our [)ersons ; in order, as he oliligingly observed, to save them from the rapacity of the people of the Black Sea, who formed aconsi coiitaininij the rest of our companions in misfortune, sadly tossed about by the mer- ciless waves, she was in a short time hist sight of; and it was now four days since we hist saw her, when she fortunately hove in sight ; removing a state of the most painful anxiety for the safety of our friends. When sufficiently close to the frigate they were all transferred to her; so that we had the pleasure of being again united: a circum- stance which afforded the greatest satisfaction to all the party. There is a singular pleasure attached to association, whether amidst the ill- fated children of adversity, or in the noisy tumult of battle; for the human mind, when abandoned to itself and solitude, is generally desolate. Our captain too, against whom there were so many just causes of complaint, excited our commiseration, and all was forgotten. We no longer beheld in him the author, but companion of our misfor- tunes. Indeed the ci-devant king cut a wretched figure, thus fallen from his ' high estate ;' and appeared sincerely afflicted with what had happened to us. Perhaps he might have erred from imprudence and temerity, rather than any wish of wilfully exposing us to so great a risk. Be that as it may, the confession of our faults ought to go a great way in expiating them ; and no virtue is more accept- able to heaven than repentance. It is finely said in a book of Hindoo morality, that the good man should not otdy pardon, but even wish well to his enemy; like the sandal tree, which, in its fall, covers the axe with perfume, by which it has been felled. Learn, says the poet Hafiz, from the shells of the sea, to fill the hand up- lifted against thee, with pearls. Do you see that tree assaulted by a cloud of stones I What does it shower on those who throw them 1 Delicious fruits and odoriferous flowers ! " Ah !" exclaimed the poor Boschi, whose life was written by the witty and satirical Landi ; * " Ah! this ///è will surely be my * The Abate Landi, a native of Talla, and vicar of San Giovanni, near Arezzo, was a man of incomparable wit, possessing extraordinary talents in the more facetious walks G 42 FILTHY CREW. death !" An expression which frequently occurred to myself while pent up in the filthy Alberine ship, where every oliject combined to make us weary of life. In the first place, our crew were composed of almost every race sent forth by the African continent, with the addition of several of the Levantine banditti, who are yearly imported from Smyrna, and other parts of Turkey, for the service of the regencies ; and there was as great a diversity of coloin% as nations ; from the flat-nosed natives of Tombuctoo, to the white and ferocious descend- ants of the Almohades. 15y way of rendering the scene still more olmoxious, this motley crew were all either attected with some corrod- ing humour, or .swarming with vermin. Constantly expecting that a plague, the natural companion of so much filth, would break out, and doomed to see these stupid fatalists with lighted lamps, and pipes in every part of the vessel ; our anxiety between such a consoling choice of evils, is not to be easily described ; and made me often w ish for the tub of Diogenes. As to the gloomy hole in which we went through the painful ceremony of attempting to sleep,, it could only be described in the language, and compared to the Inferno of our im- mortal poet : of poetic composition. Towards the end of his days, however, owing perhaps to their satirical turn, he consigned several valuable productions to the flames ; but I believe there are still many remaining at Arezzo, and amongst others some cantos of the Boscheide, a strong satire, professing to give the life of Boschi, another ecclesiastic in the neighbourhood. The latter was so deeply affected by its severity, that he conjured the bishop of his diocese to prevail on Landi to withdraw the poem ; concluding his application by emphatically saying, that " Landi's Life would be his death." On applying to the satirist for this pur- pose, his answer to the prelate was, NoU) mortem peccatoris ; convertatur et vivai. A butcher of Arezzo, who had amassed a large fortune, having built a fine palace near the town, was desirous of an inscription from Landi for his new villa, and received the follow- ing, Ossibus et nervis compegisti me; and which, not happening to be very profoundly versed in the Latin, he caused to be duly engraved on a large slab of marble, and fixed over the hall door ! Upon another occasion, when a question arose as to the propriety of a small corporation continuing its annual offering of a pig to a grandee of the country, Landi, whose opinion was asked, coolly replied, " You may do whatever you please, gentlemen ; hut the hog will always bclotig lo him!" ALGERINE GENEUOSITV. V-i " •'. . Oscura, profond'cra, e nebulosa Tanto, che per ficcar lo viso al fondo r non vi disceruea veruna cosa. Inf. C. iv.* Packed togetlu r like herrings, ours was truly the bed of Pro- crustes. Stretchetl along the decks in the niaiuier of the Turks, obliged to eat our wretched meal with the lowest part of the crew, and only supplied with wooden spoons, such as used by the Capu- chins of Italy, we were invariably under the necessity of waiting- till the beautiful mouths of our black and tuwny companions were filled. The beverage consisted of putrid water, which was handed round to the compaiii/ in a large earthen pitcher. Cnscousou was the unvarying dish; and if we occasionally felt inclined to season it with any thing, it was necessary to have recourse to a miserable steward, named Solyman, who exacted an exorbitant price for the most trifling indulgence ; and as the Rais had generously taken all our money into his deposit, something like confiding pork to the care of a cat; it was vain to expect any supply from our obdurate keeper. A young officer having applied to his prince for an increase of pay, representing his present means as altogether inadequate to his wants, the latter, attentively sur\'eying his person, observed, that it was not usual for people to look so fat and healthy upon short allowance, " Please your highness," said the officer, " this round face is not mine, but belongs to my hostess, a good soul, who has hitherto been kind enough to give me credit!" Far otherwise with the stingy Solyman, over whose door we might well have inscribed. Pay to-day, and trust to-morrow ! Our starving situation had some affinity to a poor and secluded sisterhood of Arezzo, to whom the vivacious Landi, already mentioned, presented a cage in which a beautiful canary bird was enclosed, together with a graceful copy of verses, in which the * Now thro' the void and viewless shadows drear. Short sighs, thick coming, led the list'ning ear, ■ J Trembling io murmurs low along the gale. Boyd. G 2 44 ALLEVIATIONS OF MISFORTUNE. poet makes the nuns address the bird on the striking analogy of tlieir respective conditions. " Thou, sweet bird, art shut up in your cage; and so are we in our convent. You salute tlie morning with your mellifluous notes, and our song is heard at every dawn. You fre- quently cliirp at the wires of your little cage, while we often buzz and hum at our grate. But more happy than us, you are always well supplied with a crust and millet ; whereas we are seldom at table, and rather live by our sighs." The address concludes thus: Quanto, o vago augelin, la nostra vita Delia tua si può dir pui sventurata; A te non s'impedisce che 1' uscita, E noi slam senza uscita e senza entrata ! The affairs of this world are infinitely varied, presenting an endless diversity in their ajipearance and character: and it is so ordered by a beneficent Providence, that there is scarcely any situation, how- ever unfortunate, which does not admit of some alleviation. This ordinance of the Divinity was not thrown aAvay upon us; and in the midst of our troubles, we had sufficient strength of mind to reflect, that when inquietude and agitation are only calculated to render the intricate web of fate more difficult to be unravelled, prudence sug- gests the necessity of patiently yielding to its inscrutable decrees. If not happy or resigned, there is at least a possibility of being tranquil in the worst situations. The truth of this assertion has been proved in a variety of instances. A prisoner of distinction, who had been for .some time shut up in the Bastille, confessed the days he p assed there, were far from being the most unhappy of his life. The great Menzicoff" knew how to find consolation, when exiled in the wilds of Siberia; and Cervantes began his inimitable romance in the prisons of Agamanzillas. Having regained a little of that dignity, of which the first shock of adversity deprived us, we began to feel that degree of pride, and even haughtiness, which self-love generally makes the offspring of TRAITS OF CHARACTER. 4Ó inìsfortune in \^ell regulated luiiids.* Tliis sentiment led to a more dispassionate examination of our real condition, in wliich the goo.') his oppressors. This step did not altogether please the pusillanimous individuals of his divan, but was loudly applauded by the populace. Making at least a show of magnanimity, Hamoiida asserted that the most disastrous war was preferable to a dishonourable state of peace; and for the successful termination of the present undertaking, he re- lied on the justice of his cause, and its well known popularity amongst the people.* The Algerine gov^ernment had a decided superiority over its rival in numbers and treasure; while that of Tunis had more stability. Though Algiers could send more men into the field, the Tunisian army possessed a greater moral force. The Algerine army was chiefly composed of irregular troops, without pay or proper subsistence. Com- pletely undisciplined, they separated and fled at the first disasters, frequently putting their generals to death. Tlie Tunisians were, on the contrary, tolerably well paid, and consequently better affected towards the Bey ; they had also a more improved artillery, which was directed by several Christian slaves. Tunis derived another very material advantage over the enemy, in the popular form of its govern- ment, which, composed indiscriminately of Moors, Turks, and Arabs, is infinitely more national than that of Algiers, arising from Tripoly and Algiers being still exclusively in the hands of Turkish adventurers, while the Tunisian government has tranquilly passed into those of a 3Ioorish family which has also become hereditary. On the other hand, the Algerines had a manifest advantage in their secret intercourse and political influence with the Turkish soldiery of Tunis; who, knowing that it formerly belonged to themselves, were naturally anxious to regain their ascendancy, and thus be on an equality with their Algerine brethren. f The Tunisian forces consisted of four thousand Turkish soldiers, * Hamouda seems to have argued as if he knew something of European politics. — Eil. t The subject is somewhat illustrated in the Letters from the Mediterranean, Vol. II. Chap. IV. and v.— Z;rf. 56 TUNISIAN GOVERNMENT. each of whom received about two-pence per diem : all their sons by Moorish women, who amounted to several hundreds, and are obliged to serve, besides the whole of the native warriors called the Zouavi. Whenever war is declared, the Bey calls in all the youth of his king- dom capable of bearing arms, the Bedouin chiefs never fail to attend the summons, bringing with them a numerous cavalry, so that upon great occasions the army may amount to nearly one hundred thousand men. The naval force was composed of a forty gun frigate, bought at Malta from English merchants, but previously taken from the French ; and eight or nine smaller ships, mounting from thiity- six to twenty guns, together with about fifteen gun-boats. Although whenever the parties met, they fought desperately, yet the war was conducted in the most mdoleat Avay imaginable ; without any apparent object to be attained, or anxietj' for its conclusion; while neither of the belligerents were sufficiently active, to produce a decisive result on its opponent. In the campaign which preceded our appearance off the coast, the Tunisian army had gained some very considerable advantages, owing to the stratagems employed by a Christian slave who superintended its artillery ; and, by forming a masked battery on a spot, near which the Algerine cavaliy passed in pursuit of the Tunisians, which destroyed a large portion of it. Upon this occasion the whole army of Algiers was routed, and driven under the walls of Constantina. With respect to the government of Tunis, as already observed, it is monarchical and hereditary : though, like all the Turkish states, subject to incessant and violent revolutions. Previous to the accession of Hamouda Basha, the Janizaries governed with undivided sway, after the model of Algiers and Tripoly ; but they have, ever since, notwithstanding their desperate efforts to regain power, been consi- dered merely as auxiliaries. The brother and successor of Hamouda Basha, Sydi Ottoman, who came into power in 1813, on the former's death, had been chief aga of the Turkish soldiery, and still continued to shew them great favour : this gave rise to a strong feeling of dissa- TUNISIAN RRVRNUKS. 57 tisfaotion and jealousy on the part of the Moors. Ungrateful for the benetits they were reeeivinu', and even stimulated by their recent exaltation, the Turks att( inj^ted to change the form of lioverument, or eje<'t aiu>ther bey Irom their own ranks, in the nuniner of their fraternity at Aluiers. This project ended in the total destruction of the principal ringleaders, and degradation of the rest, to a level with the Jews and Christian slaves. But they are a race, in a\ hose hearts the spirit of vengeance does not easily sleep ; as proved by varions commotions which have agitated Tunis since the above period; arul, more particularly, upon a recent occasion, \\hen, having detenniutd to make another attempt at revolt, they otfered the reins of govern- ment to a relation of Mahmoud Basha, the reigning Bey." and on his refusal, the leading Turk proposed himself as their future chief He was violently opposed l)y the Zouari, who finally succeedeil in fheir resistance to the traitors ; decapitating their leader, together with most of his companions: a part of them, who had taken possession of the Goletta, on hearing the result of the attenipt in Tunis, immediately seized four shabeques whicli lay in the road, and, {>roceeding- up the Levant, were captured l)y the Captain Pacha, who ìjeheaded several of them. Since that time, nothing very material has distinguished the Tunisian history ; the government is now , no doubt, as firmly esta- blished as violence and usurpation can make it. The revenues of this state are collected at two «liflerent periods of the year, when a large botly of troops, of which one third is com- posed of Turks and the remainder of Moors, connnanded by a Caia, with several agas under him, is employed to receive it, or enforce the payment of taxes, if necessary. The camp is generally followed by nine cooks or purveyors, who are much respected by the Moors, and * This mau is third brother of the late Bey Hamouda Basha ; and in order to obtain power by the most popular means in Barbary, caused his brother who succeeded Hamouda to be strangled with all his adherents ; and amongst the rest, the Zapa Tappa, and Mariano Stinca,both particularly noticed in my account of Tunis. The latter I often warned of his impending danger, advising him to get away before it was too late. — £d. I r>S PROGRESS OF TJIR CORSAIRS. frequently rise to the post of Doletros, or chief justices. Barbary is not tlie only country in which a knowledge of the culinary art leads to emolument and place. Rais Hamida having ineffectually prowled about the vicinity of Suez for some days, at length determined to make his appearance before Tunis, in the hope either of enticing his enemies to come out, or pick up a few prizes. The ridiculous attempts of both parties to make a semblance of bravery, while in this neighbourhood, furnished a pretty strong specimen of that mixture of ferocity and bombast which has enabled these wretches so long to impose on the timid credulity of nations; giving them credit for talents and valour, which no peo- ple under the sun are farther from possessing . On getting tolerably near the Goletta, the Tunisian squadron, whether disinclined or unprepared for the combat, immediately hauled in under the guns of the fort. Upon this. Rais Hamida, placing his squadron within about four miles of them, began a most furious though useless cannonade, which continued at intervals, during the two days we remained off the anchorage : not one shot having, in all that time, reached its intended destination ; so that if no glory was acquired, there was at least noise enough made. At length, after various bravadoes on both sides, in which mutual defiance was sub- stituted for action, our admiral seemed to say to his rival, " If you don't come out, I am off!" and accordingly we directed our course to the westward, along the Tunisian coast. Comment va le siege de Gibralter? was asked during the glorious defence of General Elliot. // va Men, il commence « se lever, was the answer. In com- pliance with long established custom, I dare say, that in the present instance, both sides claimed the victory; and, if following the example of other nations, there had been bulletins and gazettes extraordinary, we should, no doubt, have been favoured with a good stock of splen- did descriptions and magnificent lies. While one party boasted of having obliged the enemy to retreat, the other might, with equal truth assert, that his opponent fled in disorder. However trifling and RECOLLECTION'S. 59 uiiiiuporhiiit our feats before Tunis were, it Avas evident that each party claimed the victory ; and for this purpose, signals of exultation were mutually displayed. AV'ithout pretending to decide who had most reason to congratulate himself on the result of his labours, the many salutes which followed, strongly reminded me that there are feux (Varti/icc, as well as feux de joie! During the few days we continued to hover about this part of Africa, it recalled a thousand recollections, which seemed to interest and amuse the mind, at a time when it was glad to rely on any thing for consolation. In viewing the shores of Numidia and Mauritania, the names of Dido, Juba, Syphax, Jugurtha, and Massanissa, passed in rapid suc- cession over the imagination, as if only its own creation, and not the sovereigns of great countries ! Pursuing the eccentric evolutions of thought, and looking into the history of modern times, Sfax reminded us of its bombardment and destruction by the Chevaliei- Emo, the celebrated Venetian admiral. A sight of Tunis and the Goletta, was calculated to call forth mingled sentiments of pity and admiration : on the one hand, admiration for the heroic exertions of Charles the Fifth ; who, even in a comparatively barbarous age, saw the impolicv of sutier- ing lawless hordes of pirates to plunder Europe, and arrest the progress of civilization ; of pity, for the melancholy and premature fate which attended Saint Louis, whose pious, though sometimes ill-directed exer- tions, were, notwithstanding, thought worthy of canonization. Byrsa too, once the illustrious Carthage, was before our eyes ! producing a melancholy reflection upon the fleeting instability of earthly gran- deur. Here was an end to all human distinctions and worldly priority'. Forgetting the errors of antiquity, our admiration was equally divided between the virtuous inflexibility of Regulus in chains, and the stern genius of Hannibal, yielding to the superior destinies of Rome. In another quarter we pictured to ourselves the magnanimous Agathocles of Syracuse, who landing on the Carthaginian territory, burnt his fleet, so as to leave his troops no alternative between death and victory. Farther on we beheld his glorious successor, whose price 12 co RUINS OF CARTHAGE. of victory was the abolition oi" luuiiau sacrifices : here was the ancient Ades, celebrated by the defeat of the Punic fleet ; there the Acque Calide, near which the ships of Octavius were wrecked. The bay of Adrametnm, memorable for having afforded shelter to the conqueror of Pharsalia ; and the impetuous stream in which the intrepid Mas- sanissa found a 2;rave ! Nor was that inexorable scourge of Africa, the sanguinary Genserie, whose path was marked by blood and rapine, forgotten ; or the persecuted Belisarius, who, on the shore before us, shook the empire of Vandalism. Wiiether, in fact, we contemplated the diguitied heroism of Asdrubal's wife, burying herself and children in the flames ; or the maternal piety and generous nature of the tender Sophonisba : all on this gloomy shore, once the region of incense and of myrrh, and which in its days of triumph, Mas justly considered the most prolific garden of the universe ; tended to excite reflection, and inspire melancholy. It is true, the jiurity of its sky, and fecundity of soil is the same: but, alas! the iron hand of despotism has blasted all with steri- lity and death ! What, indeed, cannot a government effect, either to create or destroy l Nearly the whole of our course along this part of Africa, presented one continued scene of ruin and devastation, a wide field of sorrowful remembrance. We love to dwell on the scat- tered vestiges of ancient monuments, upon which the hand of time is so deeply engraven ; and an inmiense space, is, as it were, united in one small point. Seated on the ruins of time, we interrogate past ages : and in contemplating, with a sublime horror, those spots, the solitary proofs of man's nothingness, we recognize, with fear and trembling, the sad instability of all human affairs. Giace l'alta Cartago ; appena i segni Dell' alte sue ruine il lido serba. Muoiono le città, muoiono i regni: Copre i fasti e le pompe arena ederba : E l'uom d'esser mortai par che si sdegni O nostra mente cupida e superba !* * V. Gerusalemme Liberata, Cant. xv. thus imitated by Mr. Hoole; Now to the knights Ihe pilot damsel shew'd The spot where once imperial Carthage stood. ARRIVAL OFF I50NA. 61 But, as Chateaubriand very properly remarks, the ruins ol" Atrioa possess a cliaraoter altogether peeuliar to themselves, filling' the mind with the most gloomy images, without one consolatoiy reflection ; the natural consequence of their being rather the I'esult of barbarous vio- lence and brutal rage, than the more slow and solemn operation of time. The convulsions whi(;h have desolated this beautiful region, have been infinitely more terrible, than the ettects produced in other coun- tries by the long- course of ages : they present a dreary void, unaccom- panied by an)- regenerating power. Time, lending his scythe to death, saw him in an instant, destroy that, which might otherwise have been preserved for many centuries ; and which it required ages of Jiuman labour to create : all is ruin in this world, but the greatest Jd2 DESCRIPTION OF BOXA. however, of opinion, that Hippo was situated a mile to the south- ward of Bona. The inhabitants of this place, during- the middle ages, carried on an extensive trade in figs, calling them after their favourite saint. Near the town, some ruins are shewn to this day, which are said to have formed a part of the convent in which he resided. The chief vestiges of Roman antiquity seen at this place, consist of some arcades, with double roofs, in which the bricks are of a very large size, most probably cisterns ; a mosaic pavement, and tracks of a road like the Appian way.^ The river Seibouse, which joins the sea at Bona, is choked up at its entrance with sand, and consequently not capable of admitting large vessels ; the roadstead is rather open, and exposed to northerly winds. Its principal defence consists of a strong fort that commands the town, and the conquest of which, together with Bona itself, formed a memorable event in the more enterprizing days of the Florentine history, when the knights of San Stefano carried the terror of our arms all over the Mediterranean, but more particularly into Africa. To what a source of bitter reflection did not this visit to Bona lead in our anxious thoughts ! Our brave ancestors had conquered it, and we were brought there as slaves ! In these enlightened days, the insignificant states of Tripoly, Tunis, and Algiers, insulted, with impunity, every power in Europe ; capturing the ships of some, and condemning the crews to slavery. While, in former times, the galleys of Tuscany were more than a match for them, wresting the Balearic * On the subject of Bona Dr. Shaw observes, that besides the capacious road before it to the east, " it had formerly a convenient little port under its very walls to the south- ward ; but by the constant discharge of ballast into the one, and neglect of cleansing the other, both are daily rendered less safe and commodious." — A true picture of the preser- vative virtues of a Barbary government! In another place he adds, "Bona has the advantage of being finely situated both for commerce and hunting ; it enjoys an healthful air, and affords so fine a prospect, that the eye takes in at one view the sea, a spacious roadstead, several mountains covered with trees, and plains finely watered : so that by repairing the old ruins, and introducing fresh water into the town, it might be rendered one of the most delightful and fiourishing places in Barbary." Vide Shaw's Travel*. — Ed. ADVANTAGI^OUS POSITION. 63 islands from their liauds, and vindicating past injuries, by the most brilliant achievements gained over Musetto, king of the Saracens, whom they dispossessed of Sardinia. The situation of Bona, its spacious bay, and easy communication with the interior, would, under a different order of things, make it one of the first commercial emporiums in Afiica. Nor is it unimportant to observe, that, as an eligible place for disembarking troops and artillery, or, after they are on shore, enabling them to commence immediate operations, this point is hardly ecpialled by any other on the whole continent. The more ample consideration of this important question, will be discussed in another part of the work. 64 ARRIVAL AT ALGIERS CHAPTER in. ^ Arrival in Algiers. — Landing. — Appearance before tite Heads of the Govern- ment. — Prison of the «Sferes-. — First Day in Slavery.-^The Employment. — Hours of Repose. — Public Works. — Liberation. Arrival at the British Con- sulate's. — Lost Riches. — Still greater Losses. — -Consolations. — Unfortunate Companions. — Mode of living at Algiers. Having closed the work of plunder, and procured some refresh- ments, not the least agreeable part of the visit, to us ; the squadron again set sail, and, steering along the coast of Mauritania, we had an opportunity of observing those objects, so happily described by Carlo and Ubaldo, when sent to draw Rinaldo from his inglorious retreat. At length several white specks began to rise in the western hori- zon, and a fine breeze soon brought us in sight of the great centre of piracy, so justly apostrophised by the poet. Nido Algeri di ladri infame ed empio.* Algiers forming an extensive semi-circle of hills rising in amphi- theatric beauty round the city, and many of them studded with country houses, is exceedingly interesting and picturesque as seen from the sea ; while the nmnerous vineyards, orange and olive groves which surround the town, shewing great marks of industry and cultivation, does not bear mucli analogy to the fierce character and vagrant life of these African tyrants. On approaching the anchorage, a shout of joy ran through the frigate, and marked the satisfaction of * Algiers ! abode of robbers, cruel and impious. Tasso. LANDING. (fjÓ the barbarians, nor had we any reason to be otherwise than rejoiced at the idea of having terminated our tedious voyage, embittered as it was by such misfortunes. So perfectly comparative are our notions of happiness, that tlie prospect of landing at Algiers, which, under any other circumstances, would have created the utmost horror, was, in the present instance, hailed with a degree of joy little inferior to tìiat experienced by the tirst Templers on seeing Jerusalem. Like the patient, who, rather than bear the agony arising from his wounds, submits to a painful opeiation, we flattered ourselves, that the end of the cruize would also be that of our sufferings. St. Pierre has ingeniously compared adversity to the black mountain Beruber, on the confines of the burning kingdom of Labor; the ascent to which is impeded by craggy rocks and frightful precipices, but having once reached the summit, the sky becomes serene, while the beautiful plains of Cashamere are seen spreading in the di.s- tance. No sooner had the ships anchored, than preparations were made to land ; when Rais Hamida, ^vith a stern voice, inspired no less by his natural ferocity, tlian a consciousness of having us now completely in his power, ordered the Sicilian seamen into the long-boat, under charge of the Aga ; while the passengers were destined to grace his own splendid triumph. In this crisis, at which another important change was about to be effected in our situation, I could not help recalling to mind, those terrible lines inscribed over the Inferno, Per me si va nella città dolente : Per me si va nell' eterno dolore : Per me si va fra la perduta gente ! * which Rais Hamida seemed to repeat on desiring us to follow him * Inferno, Canto III. thus most inadequately rendered into English : Thro' me the newly damn'd for ever fleel. In ceaseless shoals to Pain's eternal seat ; TIijo' mc they marcii, and join the (ortur'd crew. Boi/d. K 66 TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE. into the pinnace, appointed to convey us on shore; towards which we now directed our course, followed by our mournful companions in the Aga's charge. On the Rais's landing, he immediately ordered us to forma procession in his rear, and then moved on, with as much selt- iniportance, as Sesostris with his four rebellious kings, or the ferocious Timur, conducting Bajazet in his iron cage. w An immense concourse had collected on the beach, to welcome with acclamations the triumphant return of the pirates: but we were neither plundered nor insulted, a treatment which many Christian slaves are said to have met with, on disembarking at this inhospitable place. In the manner of the Roman ovation, we made a long circuit, to arrive at the palace destined for holding examinations of captives, and finally condemning their prizes. The Rais entered the building, while we remained outside of the door until called for. ' ' What wereyou doing underthatlargeheapofruinsr'wasaskedof the Duchessof Popoli, who remained three days alone under the arch of a palace destroyed in the great earthquake of Calabria. " I waited," replied her grace. A large awning being extended in front of the house, the scene shortly opened, exhibiting the members of the regency, in barbarous pomp and horrid majesty, seated before us ; accompanied by the ulemas, or expounders of the law and principal agas of the divan. We were then, without farther ceremony or preamble, asked for our papers, which were duly examined ; nor was that canting gravity wanting on this occasion, which is usually assumed to justify acts of rapine and plunder. They were then presented to the English consul, whose presence is always required on these examinations, to verify any claim he may have to make. This gentleman soon saw the insuffici- ency of our documents ; but, stimulated by the goodness of his heart, and sentiments of pity for persons in our unhappy condition, he made every possible exertion to extricate us from the appalling dilemma with which we were now threatened. The circumstance of some of the party being natives of a country united to the dominion of France, DEMVERANCR OF A FAMILY. (M did nut 1 olraiii the consul's generous efforts : we were unfortunate, and that was suffieient to ensure the protection of an Englishman. But Rais Hamida Ijoldly sustained the remorseless laws of piracy : drawing the finest distinctions imaginable between ;s of otliers : so that we passed without the slifs^htest manifestation of tliat sympathy so natu- rally expected in such a situation. Exhausted by loni^ confinement, and wrapt up in a sense of their own melancholy fate, our appearance was viewed with a stupid inditierence unaccompanied by any fellow- feeling. During the few intervals, mioccupied in the public works, they remained shut up, wandering about like pallid spectres in this house of darkness and of sorrow. Our ascent up the prison staircase, was not unlike that of a malefactor, when mounting the scaffold ; but, as some indulgence is generally granted to condemned criminals, the keeper treated us during the first day with particular attention and respect ; inviting us into his own apartment, and insisting that we should partake of his dinner, thus making up for the anxiety and fasting of the preced- ing day. There were at the table, besides myself and fellow passen- gers, three slaves, who had been many years in captivity, and were persons of birth and education. Amongst the rest, was Signor Artemate of Trieste, who possessed a mind adorned by education, and a character formed by long reflection and adversity ; with the truest ingredients of friendship. In reciprocal misfortune, the consoling voice was not long silent. Like Attilius Regulus, we also were in servitude, on that very shore, which saw the Roman hero perish for his country ; happily, if like him, we could evince the same intrepidity of soul and firmness of character.* * Few captains of antiquity have excited greater admiration amongst the moderns than Regulus, and none more deservedly. The concluding part of his address to the senate, is the best possible eulogium on the memory of this truly great man, while it conveys a grand lesson to the patriots of every age and country. I give it in the eloquent language of Chateaubriand. " Je n'ignore point le sort qui m'attend ; mais un crime flétriroit mon ame : la douleur ne brisera que mon corps. D'ailleurs il n'est point de maux pour celui qui les salt souffrir : sils passent les forces de la nature, la mort nous en délivre. Peres conscrits, cessez de me plaindre : j'ai dispose de mei, et rien ne me pourra faire changer de sentiment. Je retourne à Carthage; je fais mon devoir ct je laisse faire aux dicux." — Itinéraire de Paris à Jerimalem, Tome li. p. 246. — Ed. 70 PROSPKCT OF UBEilATlON. Tli<^ following" day was occupied in communicating with the English consul and other friends in the city, together with the prin- cipal Jews, who were likely to be most useful in forwarding the w ork of liberation. For my own part, I began to view things in a some- what more favourable light: my excellent friends, the Chevalier and Madame Rossi, warmly interested themselves with the consul in my behalf; while that worthy and philanthropic minister did every thing in his power to extricate me from the horrid situation in which 1 was placed. It was whispered at the Bagno, that I had been for- mally demanded from the ministers of his excellency the Dey ; but that they had refused, there being only one amongst the number, who would condescend to libeiate me, and that at the moderate con- dition of my paying down three thousand sequins in gold ;* and this because the government knew I was a great jt>oe< wallowing m richest Poetry and riches is indeed a strange association of ideas. Little did my new masters know the value of poets in Europe. It was further said, that they were not particularly anxious to release me upon any terms, it being his excellency's intention to avail himself of my tvon- derful talents in affairs of great importance. What on earth could he have done with me? Poet laureat; virtuoso of the bed-chamber, or musician extraordinary, to his highness the Pasha ! I doubt whether either of these brilliant appointments wonld have turned my brain ; for to me, chains are not the more acceptable for being made of gold. While busied in the.se various speculations, the Guardian Basha, or principal keeper, took me by the arm, and commenced a grave sermon on the flattering prospects that seemed to await me. " Surely," said he, " your friends were born before you, and fortune has now evidently taken you under her peculiar protection, arriving a slave in Algiers, and the next day ruiniing the ri.sk of obtaining a post, to which others do not arrive in a hundred years." While on this favourite strain I every moment expected to be compared to the fortunate Jo- * A bout £1600. PROPOSAL FROM THE DEY. 71 sepli, whose advancement was also preceded by golden dreams. " But you," pursued the Basha, " should leap for joy." " And have I not," said I, '• every reason to be afflicted? What consolation can there be for him who is in chains'?" " Weakness of human nature!" replied the Basha. " Slaveiy is the natural state of man. All,'' — these were exactly his words, — " all depends on the law of the strono-- est ; on eircumstances and necessiti/. We are all the slaves of cus- tom, of the passions, of disease, and of death. But those iv ho rise to power are no longer slaves : and thus you may have slaves at your nod; and by obeying one, command a thousand. You have a good head, can speak well, and are a great acquisition to us. When once interpreter and secretary to the Dey, you tvill swim in gold, become the lamp of knowledge, and possess gardens of voluptuous- ness : you tvill be a great personage, and all will bow before you."^ " Too much honor ! too much honor !" I answered : " I do not merit it. But by what accident has the Dey condescended to cast his eyes on me I" "Why," said he, "it was always customary for the Pacha to liave a slave for his secretary : one of these infidel do*^s having betrayed his trust, tlie Dey had his head struck ofF. Another came, but this rogue used to carry news to the European consuls, and he was condemned to die under the bastinado. A Jew was next taken into the service of his highness, but as he only thought of mak- ing money, his treasures were seized and himself burnt. A Moor and Arab were successively tried %vithout effect, and after being removed had their heads taken off, to avoid telling tales. The Dey having- once more determined to try a Christian, you are the happy man upon whom he has fixed his choice." " But tell me, for curiosity's sake," said I, " how long did the two Christians, Jew, Moor, and Arab remain in office?" "Some continued three, six, and ten months; but none reached a year's servitude : all had a short life and a merry * Would to Heaven that the sad reality of the Guardian Basha's doctrine did cot extend beyond Algiers.— £c/. 72 PROPOSAL FROM THE DEY. one," was die answer. "The honors," said I then, " would be venv acceptable, but involved, I apprehended, too much responsibilit> A thousand thanks, therefore, for the interest you so kindly take in my advancement ; but I fear pachas are too easily disgusted witL their followers, and begin to play the tyrant rather early. Besides, I am not like the cardinal who exclaimed. Vorrei senternii dire Segretario di stato, e poi morire." "Name me but a secretary of state, and then let me die!" " M. le Mai'qtns," said a young gentleman to the minister d'Argenson, who was appointed to a regiment in the field : " I wish for life rather than immortality !" After the above conversations, I naturally began to reflect on the good fortune which these folks were desirous of heaping on me ; and, if left to my own ideas in the choice of a place, I deter- mined it should be like that of the disappointed candidate for a public employment in London ; who, after many fruitless applica- tions, one day called on his expected patron, and told him he had at length procured one ; when, being very civilly congratulated on his success, the patron ventured to ask what his new post might be. He satisfied the demand, by rejoining that it was a place in the Shrews- bury coach, which should, that very night, convey him from a town, where he was heartily tired of listening to the flattering and unmean- ing promises of patrons.* * The Abbe Tanzini, a Florentine, and a man of considerable genius, but whose man- ners were rather uncouth, finding himself once in the anti-chamber of a prince, where two other persons magnificently dressed were also in waiting, by the way of amusing themselves at the Abbe's expence, and rather overstepping the mark by taking a man in his simple garb for a fool : one of the gentlemen asked with a simper who he was? " Tell me who rou are first," said the priest. " Why," replied he, " I am a gentleman who has the honor of serving his excellency the prince as secretary." " And I," observed his compa- nion, " am the Signor N , who has also the honor of being the prince's agent gene- ral." " .And I," t-ajd Tanzini, "am the Abate Tauziui, who has the honor of not serving under any one I ' DISAPPOINTMENT. 7-ì While thus occupied iu conversine^ with the Guardian Basha. dnriui»- which, jìa-^sing to and fro, amongst tlie dark corridors, where the victims of servitude lay hutldled in groupes, stretched along the bare earth, with nothine: but a little coverinn- of straw, the hour of supper arrived preparatory to that of repose. A short time before the English vice-consul, who had kindly recommended us to the Grande Scrivano and Guardian Basha, came to inform me of the steps \\ hich had been taken by his generous principal in my favour, with the Dey ; and how, even at that late hour, he had taken the trouble of ascend- ing the stairs of the Fascial ick. On the other hand, ray friend, the Grande >Scrivano, determined to destroy the slight rays of hope shed , by the vice-consul's visits, informed me, that I might now consider my fate as finally decided ; for although there was, in the first instance, a possibility- of theconsul'seloquence and creditprevailingwith his mas- ter, yet, the negative once given, my future doom became irrevocable ; and that, even the exertions made for my liberation, when unsuccess- ful, could not fail to render the case more hopeless. As may be easily conceived, I passed a sleepless night, embittered by the most painful apprehensions. Although the scrivano had given up his bed and room, it did not facilitate my disposition to repose. In this trying per- plexity, the maxims of the wise and good, did not altogether abandon me; nor could I entirely forget their influence in making us indepen- dent of adversity. Dionysius the yovmger, being asked Avhat philosophy had taught him, replied, "to meet without surprize the vicissitudes of fortune, and support myself under them w ithout complaining !" " When," said Calisthenes, " I find myself in a situation that requires courage and resolution, I feel that I am at my post. If the gotls had only placed me on the earth, to lead a life of efteminacy and ease. I should have considered greatness of mind and immortality, an una- vailing present." It has been tndy said by a poet, that though we cannot command success, we may do more, we may deserve it. Tyranny never sleeps, and even envies that of the wretched, whom it has bereft of every other blessing. The first rays of light L 74 BADGE OF SLAVERY. had not yet dawned, nor had either men or animals time to recover the preceding day's labonr, when the turnkey, with a lioarse and stentorian accent, exchiimed, " Vamos a trabajo cornutos V'^ '• To work!" 8uch was the flattering- expression used to call the slaves: and in which we too, had the unexpected honor of being included. I should also add, that it was followed by the application of a cudgel to the shoulders of those who mani- fested the smallest disinclination to obey the summons, in double- quick time. Previous to our quitting the prison, the black Aga made his appearance, bringing with him several iron rings, to be rivetted on our left ancles, there to remain in perpetuity, as a sign of bondage. These rings were slight, but they were those of slavery ; and their horrible weight can only be known, to those who have worn them I Having successively applied them to the legs of my companions, the Aga put one into my hand, saying, that his excellency the Pacha, as a mark of particular favour, allowed me the distinguished honor of putting on my own ring ! This is not unlike the fatal privilege granted to the viziers of the Porte, of strangling themselves with the cord sent for that purpose by their master. With similar feelings did I put on the dreadful emblems of servitude; which ignominious operation was followed by a cold sweat that covered my forehead : my heart panted with anguish, my eyes no longer saw the surrounding objects, I attempted to speak, but could not articulate ; looking downwards, my eyes caught the degrading badge, and, with a deathlike silence I yielded to my fate. The nundjer of new victims of different nations nmstered on this occasion, and all captured during the last cruize of the barbarians, amounted to two hundred. Being ordered to proceed to the scene of our labours, a mournful silence marked our progress, which was attended by guards both in tiont and rear, armed with whips, frequently * A translation of the last word iu this sentence, would, no doubt, be deemed too delicate for English ears : the reader i.^, therefore, referred to his Italian dictionary. — £d. UNFAPRCTKD LIBERATION. 75 repeating': A trabnjo coritutos; rait (V infidel a trabiijo ; "To work! Dog of u Christian, to work !" Thus escorted, we arrived at tlie public oveus, wheu two rusks of hhick bread were tlirown to each of us, as if to Hiere dogs. I observed, that tlie old captives, who had arrived on the ground liefore our party, greedily snatched them up, and soon dispatched Jioth \\'\{\\ a frightful avidity. Arrived at the great hall of the marine, we found seated there, in all the pride of tyrannic power, the various members of the executive government, including the agas of militia, the grand admiral, first raisof the squa- dron, the cadi, mutiti, ulemas, and judges according to the Koran. We were then ranged along in regular succession, selected, numbered, and looked at with jiarticular attention ; as practiced at the slave markets, formerly held in Jamaica.* With our eyes fixed on the assembly, and beating hearts, a profound silence reigned through the hall, when it was broken by the minister of marine, first secretary of state, calling out my name, I was then ordered to advance. On obeying, various interrogatories were put to me, relative to my occupations in England, and other relations with that countrv. Havinu; answered them in the best way I could, the minister pronounced the talismanic words. Ti star franco Ì " You are free." AVe are told the most agreeable tones heard by human ears, are those of well earned praise ; the most grateful sounds those expressed by a beloved object. No ! The sweetest voice which can possibly vibrate through the heart of man, is that which restores him to liberty! To form an adequate idea of what I felt, on this unforeseen, and happy change of circumstances, it will be necessary for the reader to conceive a victim Avith the bandage on his eyes, and fatal axe uplil'ted, whose ears are suddenly astounded with accents of grace and mercy ! A case like mine was absolutely unique in the annals of Algiers; there being no example of a slave's liberation so immediately after his captivity without ransom: the decrees of those barbarians being * Out, damned spot! Out, I say! L 2 76 ARRIVAL AT VtìE lìKITISH COìNSULATE. those of inexorable fatality. A soldier was ordered to knock off my irons: this done, he, in his turn, desired me to go and thank the minister ; who, on addiessing him, shook me by the hand, adding- many expressions of civility ; and finally, ordered the dragoman to conduct me to the house of his Britannic majesty's consul. The first impulse of joy had fairly inundated my heart. When once more at liberty, I could move my limbs with some facility. But the next thought was for my unhappy companious, who, on the strength of my liberation, were induced to flatter themselves with the fond hope of being treated in a like manner. Next to my own safety, nothing on earth could at that awful moment have afforded me such heartfelt satisfaction. Departing slowly with my new guide, I stopped repeatedly, and looking back with wistful eyes, vainly anticipated the pleasure of seeing them follow; but the order was already given to conduct them all to labour ; their respective occupations were even pointed out. I saw them hanging down their heads, with eyes suffused in tears ; they advanced a few steps towards me, pressed my hand, sobbed adieu, and disappeared! Arrived at the British consulate, the dragoman left me : soon after which, my generous friend, the Chevalier Rossi appeared; when, as it will be readily conceived, our meeting was a most agreeable surprize to both parties. The recent circumstances would not admit of comment ; but on such occasions, the language of the heart is more eloquent than that of the tongue. In a short time we were joined by the consul, whose countenance beamed all that serenity which arises from the performance of a good action ; jiruving an old adage, that virtue is the best promoter of the circulating fluid, and con- sequent tranquillity of mind. The name of this worthy minister, and the highly important services which he rendered me, will be eter- nally cherished in my heart. To the recollection of this great act of beneficence, will be united those of benevolence and kindness, which form the characteristic of true gentility, considerably enhancing all its favors. It is impossible for me, sufficiently to applaud the eminent TRIBUTE OF GRATITUDE. 77 qualities of Mr. M'^ Donnei. Courteous in his address and manners, with an elevated turn of thoui>lit and noble sentiments, unitine,- to the gentlest • ,i 86 SIGNS OP CHEERFULNESS Pei cuori infelici Che il duolo colpi. Son come del cielo Le molli rugiade Sul languido stelo Del fior che appassì. " The tears of pity and friendship, shed for those overtaken with grief, are like the dewy drops of heaven, falling on the stem whose flower is drooping.'' By degrees, however, I was happy to perceive the captives had regained a little more calmness and serenity. When the mind is lace- rated by sorrow, wisdom comes smiling, to sow her seeds on the heart moistened with tears; as the plough more easily turns up the ground, softened by rain, or the dews of heaven, before the husbandmaft throws in the hopes of the ensuing harvest. W^isdom is a rose, that flourishes best amongst thorns, and merit appears more luminous, when surrounded by the gloom of adversity : as the lamp acquires addi- tional splendor from darkness. Algiers is not one of those cities oil Von jieift se passer de honheur : on the contrary, there is nothing to render it agreeable to an European resident. The poet Regnard was once a slave here, but accompanied by his mistress Elvira : and what sorrows will not be forgotten when a beloved object divides them ; or what weight of chains do not become light, when mingled with the tender ties of love 1 Regnard knew how to acquire the affection and esteem of his master Sydi Thaleb, by his vivacity and talents; not those of com- posing verses and comedies, bnt which are by many, even in Europe, still more valued, that of making pies and patties. The Chevalier Rossi's amiable family, and myself, lived near the English consul's country house, and were daily in the habit of receiving some new marks of his hospitable attentions. I frecpiently descended into the town, but never discerned any object to ex ci te interest or curiosity. No library, not even a coffee-room with a news-paper, or thesociety of a single individual from whom a new idea could be gained. WANT OP SOCICTY. 87 How indeed can it be possible for people, so full of barbarous preju- dices, to pursue any study, or encourage improvements, with their slavery and indolence ! Letters expire when variety and activity does not give rise to an incessant renewal of iresent instance. Anxious that the following account of manners and customs in Algiers may contribute to the reader's amusement, my utmost ambition will be g.jatified if it should also be found to convey a little useful instruction. However defective my labours may have been, I shall not imitate the Abbé de Choisi, who, after having pub- lished a history of the church, was heard to declare : " Now that my work is printed, I shall begin to studi/ the ecclesiastical history /" " How did you acquire all your wisdom?^' was asked of .some of the ancient philosophers. " By interrogating those I met upon all that I was ignorant of," was the sage's reply. HISTORICAL ACCOUNT OF nARBAKY 101 CHAPTER V. Baubary. — Derivation of its Name.— Soil, and Climate. — Short View of itft general History, and of Algiers in part icnlar.— Geographical Description. — Monuments and Remains of Antiquity. — The Capital described. That part of northern Africa called Barbary, has, like most other countries, fiu'nished the learned with a controversy about the origin of its name : some deriving it from the Arabic word Her, which sig- nifies a desert; but this cainiot surely apply to countries so rich and fertile. Others have fancied they could trace the appellation to a nearly similar sound with the above, meaning a man who speaks through his teeth. This is equally fallacious, not answering, in any way, to the present dialect of the Moors. In search of another deri- vative, the Romans are said to have styled it Barbary, from the ferocious character of its inhabitants ; but, in addition to there being- no historical record of this kind, a little reflection will show the im- piobability of such a significant epithet applying to a country which was civilized almost as early as their own ; and containing, in after times, by far the finest colonies they possessed. Its extreme affi- nity to the modern inhabitants of this extensive region, proves very .strongly, that the word Barbary is of much more recent invention than the time of the Romans. The most generally received opinion of the present day, traces it to Bereber, the country of shepherds ; while some, however, deduce it from Berberi, people inhabiting near a strait. Be this as it may, no country on earth is more highly favoured by nature : and, next to Egypt, it was, while under the Roman yoke, justly regarded as the richest, and most productive of 102 CLIMATE AND SITUATION. its piovinces, and the granary of the state. Some writers honored this coast witli the flattering title of soul of the republic, and jewel of the empire. It was also considered the very tirst refinement in the luxury of those days, to possess a villa or estate on this smiling region.* The climate is soft and salubrious : and the seasons follow each other in the gentlest succession ; in autumn the heats are exces- sive, but generally tempered by nortlierly winds. There are very few diseases peculiar to Barbary ; it has not been visited by tlie plague for a period of twenty-five years, though raging with so much vio- lence in the neighbouring island of Malta, and farther on at Gibral- ter. It is far from being indigenous to this country, and no greater proof could be adduced of its extreme salubrity, than that of having escaped epidemic disorders for so long a time, without the many and often ineffectual precautions adopted for their prevention in more civilized countries. What, therefore, might not be expected in Barbary, if only a little care was taken, to avoid the introduction of disease i This immense coast, extending from the Atlantic ocean to Alex- andiia in Egypt, more than two thousand miles, and from north to south nearly five hundredin some parts, comprehends the ancient Mauritania, Numidia and Lybia ; the country of the Massili, Getuli, and Gara- mantes. All these states, which attained a flourishing condition under independent governments, were successively conquered by the Roman arms, and continued to share the various fortunes of the empire until the reign of Valentinian III. A. D. 428. when Count Boniface, disgustedby ■* What a striking and melancholy contrast to the above, is exhibited by the following extract, representing the state of Africa after the invasion of the Vandals : " Many of the most flourishing and populous cities with which it was filled, were so entirely ruined, that no vestiges remained to point out where they were situated. That fertile territory which sustained the Roman empire, still lies in a great measure uncultivated ; and that province which Victor Vitensis in his barbarous Latin called speciositas totius terree florerdis, i§ now the retreat of banditti." — Robertson 8 Charles I-'. Vol. I. p. 240. — Ed^ CONQUEST BY BELISAKIUS. 103 tlie intriguesof the court and ini>T;ititiitie of his master, became a traitor; and callins: in the aid of the Vandals, who had already desolated a great part o[' Europe, the arms of those cruel fanatics soon triunjphed over ttie degenerate descendants ol" Home. Contemporary authors have left us a detailed account of the disasters which marked the progress of this dreadlul invasion. They founda country well cultivated, the ornament of earth and of nature. There was no part of this fine region that could escape the rage of its barbarous conquerors : the vines were pulled up Ijy the roots, trees cut dow n, and houses destroyed. In order that the unfortunate inhabitants should have no means of existing in the country, they obliged the prisoners to declare where treasures were concealed, and the number of discoveries made in this way only seemed to increase their avidity for more. Not only were all the public edifices and temples razed, but whole cities lelt without a single inhabitant. It is related, that when any strong places refused to surrender, the invaders would collect an immense number of pri- soners under the walls, and having put them all to the sword, left the bodies above ground to infect the atmosphere, aiid thus gain, by this shocking stratagem, what their arms could not efiect.* The Emperor Justinian having strengthened his own government by wise laws and liberal institutions, wishing to revive the splendor of the throne by reconquering the finest provinces of the em[)ire, lost through the imbecility of his predecessors, selected the great lielisa- rius, who entered Africa at the head of a large army. Finding the Vandals weakened by internal divisions, and enervated by sloth, he experienced very little difficulty in subduing their chief, Gelinier. Several victories were followed by the triiunphaut entiy of lieli- .sarius into Carthage ; and for a time, at least, tliis fine country Avas * In uoticing the exterminating effects of the wars which desolated Africa, frsm the arri%'al of the Vandals until the expedition of Belisarius, Procopius, a contemporary histo- rian observes : " Africa was so entirely dispropled, that you might travel several days in it without meeting one man ; and it i.s no exiiggeration to .say, that in the course of the war which ensued on the arrival of Belisarius, five miUions of human souls perished.'' — Ed. 104 THE ANCIENT MAURITANIA. destined to be governed by its old masters; but as Robertson jnstly observes, great men can form and mature an infant people, but they cannot restore the vigour of youth to old and corrupted nations.* The empire, enfeebled by its prodigality, and torn with internal dis- cord, was fast hurrying towards its ruin, and being no longer able to make its authority respected, or prevent foreign encroachments, Africa, which had suffered a century from the extortions of Greek prefects, fell under the dominion of the caliphs, whose new religion enabled them with its usual auxiliary, the sword, to extend their empire from the banks of the Tigris to the western extremity of this great continent. An open country, without fortresses or troops to defend it, was not likely to oppose any very formidable resistance to the victorious successors of Mahomet. In the course of time, the new conquerors who continued to possess Barbary, detached them- * This profound remark of the Scottish historian, has been enlarged upon by Chateau- briand, in a passage of his Itineraire. Its ingenious turn of thought, and depth of reflection, have seldom been exceeded by this charming writer. As it includes a well merited tribute of applause to the persecuted Belisarius, whose singularly heroic character is greatly enhanced by the comparatively dark age in which he lived, and as the truly great cannot vbe too frequently held up for example, I hope to be excused for giving the originaL " Bélisaire an reste étoit digue de ces succès. C'étoit un de ces hommesqui paroissent de loin à loin dans les jours du vice. Pour interronipre le droit de prescription contre la vertu. Malheureusement ces nobles ames qui brillant au milieu de la bassesse, ne produi- sent aucune revolution. Elles ne sont point liées aux affaires humaines de leur temps ; étrangères et isolées dans le present, elles ne peuvent avoir aucune influence sur l'aveuir. Le monde roule sur elles, sans les entrainer ; mais aussi elles ne peuvent arréter le monde. Pour qui les ames d'une haute nature soient utiles à la société, il faut qu'elles naissent chez un peuple qui conserve le gout de l'ordre, de la religion et des moeurs, et dont le genie et le caractére soient en rapport avec sa position morale et politique. Dans le siécle de Beli- saire, les événemens étoient grands et les hommes petits. C'est pourquoi les annales de ce siécle, bien que remplies de catastrophes tragiques, nous revoltent et nous fatiguent. Nous ne cherchons point, dans l'histoire, les revolutions qui maitrisent et écrasent Ics hommes, mais les hommes qui commandent aux revolutions, et qui soient plus puissans que la for- tune. L'universe bouleversé par les Barbares ne nous inspire que de l'horreur et du mépris ; nous sommes éternellement etjustement occupés d'une petite querelle de Sparte et d'Athénes dans un petit coin de la Greece." — Itin. Voi. IL p. 272. — Ed. iMODERX HISTORY. 100 selves from the Saraeeiis (if the East, creating' an emir, who was from that time considered as entirely independent of the caliphs, and other Mahometan rnlers. The present territory of Algiers was the Mauritania, Tingitana, or C^SARiENSisof the Romans. The names of Jngnrtha, and Massa- nissa, are familiar to all the readers of Roman hi.story ; and Jidia, its last king, bravely, according to the philosophy of that day, put an end to his own existence on losing the battle of Thapsus, fought against Julius Caesar ; whose enemies he joinetl in the African war, which ended by the conqueror of Pharsalia declaring Mauritania a Roman colony. It was afterwards, during the reign of Claudius, divided into two provinces, the Tingitana, and Caesariensis, from the cele- brated city of Julia Caesaria, noticed by Dr. Shaw, and other writers. Referring to that part of its modern history, out of which the piratical system has sprung, it will be sufficient for our present purpose to state, that the Saracen chief Eutemi, who styled himself king of Algiers in the l)eginning of the sixteenth century, alarmed at the progress of the Spanish army, during the admi- nistration of the celebrated Cardinal Ximenes, which had already become masters of Oran, called in to his assistance two famous pirates. Home and Hayradin, the terror of whose names, at the above period, extended from the Dardanelles to the Straits of Gibralter. The infamy of their depredations, united with talents of no common cast, gave rise to a belief, that their views had a much greater .scope than mere piracy : this was amply proved in the end. The amijitious Home came to Algiers with five thousand men, where he was received as a liberator; but he soon after caused the credulous Eutemi to be secretly assassinated, and immediately after made himself ma.sterof the city. This was followed by driving the Spaniards out of Barbarj, tlie conquest of Tremesan and several other states: nor did much time elapse, before his fleets, more like those of a great monarch than a petty chief, began to infest the coasts of Italy and Spain. Wearied p 106 BARBAROSSA. with a reign which excluded all repose, some of his subjects applied for succour to the king of Spain, who made a very spirited attempt to liberate them and Euro})ean commerce from so great a tyrant ; but unfortunately, the elements favoured Home, and baffled the scheme for that time. The Spaniards were, however, more successful on a future occa- sion, when Comares, governor of Oran, having united his forces with those of the dethroned sherif of Tremesan, completely routed the army of Barbarossa; who, being overtaken in his flight, met the punishment due to his crimes. His brother Hayradin succeeded him with the same share of talentand ambition. Thefameof this man's actions made so great a noise, that Solyman, emperor of the Turks, oftered him the command of his fleet, as the only person who was capable of opposing the celebrated Andrea Doria. Hayradin, also surnamed Barbarossa, soon after his accession to power, took possession of Tunis by stratagem. Driven thence l>y the victorious arms of Charles the Fifth,* he fled to Bona, and embarking there for Constantinople, terminated his piratical career some years after in the Turkish capital. In an age so favourable to the success of upstart adventurers, Barbary was not long without falling a prey to the rapacity of a new chief: this was found in the person of Dragut Rais, who had for some time exercised the profitable pursuit of piracy all over the Mediterranean ; and though, at first, only .secretly encouraged by the Porte, he was, in the end, openly assisted with the co-operation of Sinan Bashaw, in expelling the knights of Malta from Tripoli, in 1551 . The success of this enterprize was soon followed by the com- plete re-establishment of the Porte's influence as far as Morocco, which has never acknowledged its sovereignty. For many years after, the three regencies of Tripoli, Tunis, and Algiers, were supplied with governors, and a proportion of troops from Constantinople. In progress of time, however, .several flagrant * For an account of that celebrated expedition, the reader is referred to Robertson's History of Charles V. — Ed. NOMINAL DEPENDENCE ON TURKEY. 107 abuses were foiiiK I to arise fi'oiii tliis mode of sendiiiij;- rhiefs ; and when, upon any occasion, they became too intolerable at Algiers, the janizaries sent deputations to Constantinople, for the double |»urpose of complaint, and solicitation to have another appointed in tlieir place. When once the complaints of the soldiery were listened to, the future chiefs named by the Porte, were little more than ambassadors ; till, at length, in one of those commotions so frequent at Algiers, the Ottoman Pasha was quietly put on board a ship, the captain of which received directions for him to be landed at Constantinople. Since that time, all the power of election has remained in the hands of the Janizaries. The original stipulation with these chiefs, of acknowledging the Grand Seignor as their sovereign, and paying him a yearly tribute, it is hardly necessary to add, has long since become a dead letter, ex- cept when these marauders have found it convenient to obtain the countenance and support of their nominal master ; and then a well- timed present has seldom been thrown away upon the disinterested despot of Turkey. A late writer, after detailing the principal events which have led to the nefarious and unlawful establishments of these execrable governments, concludes by the following very just observation : " thus. Barbar}^ after experiencing the most extraordinary revolutions; and after holding, at different periods, a very conspicuous place in the {)oli- tical world, has degenerated into a permanent receptacle for licensed piracy; for though the Barbary powers have assumed to themselves, all the consequence of independent sovereignties, and are honored with the presence of accredited ministers from some of the most dis- tinguished states in Europe ; yet, from their total disregard of those laws which other nations have held sacred and inviolable, and from their unwarrantable system of exacting tribute as the terms of tlitir forbearance ; collectively, they still are to be considered in no better light, than as a nation of free-booters, which the jealousy, or mis- P 2 108 REGENCY OP ALGIERS. taken policy of more powerful states have hitherto prevented them from destroying-."* The history of the Barbary .states, however varied by events, ex- hibiting an almost unexampled series of invasions, conquests, and atrocities, does not, as many have very properly observed, possess either the interest or importance excited by that of more civilized nations ; where noble sentiments are seen combined with feelings of honorable ambition. The history of this country furnishes instances of ardent passions, criminal designs, and dreadful crimes ; but we look in vain for those enlarged views, heroic actions, and glorious results, which can alone render the study of history either useful or agreeable. The regency of Algiers includes above six hundred miles of sea coast, between the river Melooia, which separates it from Morocco,^ and the Zaine, its eastern boundary ; while its extreme breadth, from the capital to the country of Dates, does not exceed one hundred and eighty .t It is bounded on the west by the kingdom of Fez, the chain of the Atlas and Biludelgerid on the .south, Tunis on the east, and the Mediterranean sea on the north. The Dey's absolute domination extends four days journey from the capital. Beyond that, until you reach the Biludelgerid, is inhabited by wandering tribes, who merely pay tribute when the army takes its annual tour through the country. * Historical Memoir-s of Barbary, 1816. t Dr. .Shaw, whose book derives a great portion of its value from the circum- stance of no other traveller's having ever minutely described the same ground, or per- haps gone over it, only allows four hundred and sixty miles length to the territory of Algiers ; and in this he has been followed by several other writers. Yet by the reader's referring to the map, he will immediately perceive the extent of this error, there being between the Melooia and Zaine, no less than eleven degrees of longitude, making in all six hundred and forty-nine miles. I confess, it would be absurd for any person, in our present ignorance of this part of Africa, and total want of an accurate survey of the coast, to bring forward geographical descriptions, which there are no certain means of substantiating. — Ed. RIVERS OF AL(;iRRS. 109 The regency is divided into lom jnovinoes, Mascara, Algiers, Titterie, and Constantina. Lahez is a mountainous district which pays tribute ; and Biscara is anotlier poor tributary country in the kingdom of Zel). IJetweeu Algiers and Bugia to the south, are tlie mountains of Couco, inhal)ited by tlie Azagui, a ferocious people whom the Deys have never reduced into complete subjectiou. Towards Fez is the little Desai't of Angad, much frequented by beastsof preyand ostriches. Previous to reaching the lesser Atlas there is a large tract of country called Tel I, from thence connnences the country of Dates. The most considerable river in this part of Africa is the Melooia, the ancient Malva, a [)art of which is navigable for small vessels. Besides this there are several minor streams west of the capital, of which the Shellif and Hamiman are the most conspicuous; while its eastern side is profusely wateretl by the Yisser, Boberack, Zowah, Sei- bouse, and Zaine. A place, called the Seventy Sources, rising in the Atlas towards the Desart of Angad, is spoken of as one of the greatest curiosities to be found on the whole territory of Algiers. The country abounds in springs, and besides the range of the great Atlas which runsthrough the Algerine states from east to west, there are several other mountains, such as Gibbel Auress, Mons Aurasia of the ancients, the mountains of Trara, forming its western confines towards Tremecen, and Mas-Atiran, the Juguia, Gibliel Deera, &c. The principal cities are Algiers, containing about one hundred and twenty thousand souls ; Constantina, w ith a population (»f one hundred thousand; Tremisan, once the capital of a great kingdom, but now reduced to insignificance ; Bona, which has an excellent bay and strong castle ; Oran, a large and populous town with a tole- rably good roadstead, and within a tew miles east of which there is a fine bay capable of receiving the largest fleets. Tenez, at one time the capital of a rich and beautiful kingdom ; Boujeiah, which is very strong, and possesses a much larger port than Algiers, though not quite so secure; Mersalquivir, a place of some con.se- quence; and Shershell, where there is also good anchorage ; Arzew, 110 RELICS OF ANTIQUITY. celebrateti for its extensive salt pits, the finest in the world ; El-cal- lah, renowned for its great market and manufactures of shawls and carpets; Bleeda, a populous town in the interior; and also Gigeri on the sea coast: the territory of which is extremely mountainous, and the inhabitants considered the most savage and ferocious race in Bar- bary. All those christians who happen to be wrecked on this coast, are invariably made slaves of. There are various other large towns and populous districts in this fine country, many of which have scarcely been visited by any European traveller. It is hoped, however, that the time is not far distant, when we shall have something more than gar- bled information and uncertain conjectures to gratify our curiosity about so interesting a quarter of the world. For the present, it is of more im- portance to enable the reader to form a tolerably correct idea of its inanners and customs. Travelling in the interior is attended with many difficulties, owing to there being no bridges ; and as to roads, they would clash with the policy of the government, by facilitating the progress of an enemy, and opening a trading intercourse between the people ; which, sti-ange paradox ! it is the interest of the Dey to suppress. Notwithstanding the amazing number of fine cities containing all that was splendid or beautiful in Roman art, which each of the African colonies, and particularly Mauritania, possessed, the exter- minating fury of its various invaders have left comparatively a very small part of its monuments standing, to gratify the curiosity of the moderns. The few, however, which remain, amply serve to confirm those ideas we are taught to entertain of their former magnificence, by contemporary historians. Tlie total impossibility of exploring this country while in the hands of its present inhabitants, renders it probable that we shall yet see many years pass away, before any adequate notion can be formed of the extent of those treasures which it no doubt contains. Until the happy period of opening the mine arrives, it is the province of travellers to point out w here the hidden treasures are concealed. Of medals an infinite variety are continually found in the REMAINS OF A MOORISH CITY. Ill Algerine provinces : those of Punic and Carthaginian origin, are distinguislied by great beauty of design and unconnnon spirit in the fignres. ^Fho has not admired the celebrated head of Ceres, vulgarly supposed to be that of Dido, also peculiar to the coins of Syracuse Ì The horse on its reverse is in general equally spirited with tlie head. Those medals bearing a lion, with a Punic inscription nnderneatli, which has hitherto baffled the most learned antiquaries, is with reason supposed to be anterior to the former, but in point of correct drawing and exact imitation of nature, nothing can exceed their execution. Great quantities of cameos, bronzes, and imperial coins are continually found, and if not destroyed by the superstitious zeal of the Arabs, are brought into Algiers, and sold to the difterent consuls. How truly gratitying it would be to the whole European public, were it in the power of any tourist to explore this part of Africa, and ascertain what there is remaining of £aw6e*e,* Thubana,Cartera, and Ruslcada, of which Pliny gives so high an idea, also of Sana-Muni- vipium, so celebrateti in the age of Augustus. The ancient Tusca is now called Zaine, after the river on whose banks it is built. Tipasa is at present known by the name of Tlassul, and both are mere * Ur. Shaw thinks he discovered the remains of this great city some leagues eastward of Constantina, in the Tezzoiite or Erba of the Moors. Of this part of Algiers he gives the following interesting description : " The mountains of Auress, to the southward of Constantina, are a knot of eminences running into one another, with several little plains and vallies between them. Both the higher and the lower parts are generally extremely fer- tile, and are esteemed the garden of the kingdom: they are about a hundred and thirty miles in circuit, and all over them are spread a number of ruins ; the most remarkable of which are those of L'Erba, the Lambese of the ancients. These ruins are nearly three leagues in circumference ; and amongst others, consist of magnificent remains of several of the city gates : these, according to a tradition of the Arabs, were four in number, and the city could send forty thousand armed men out of each. There are still also to be seen the seats and upper part of an amphitheatre ; the frontispiece of a beautiful temple of the Ionic order dedicated to Esculapius ; a small but elegant mausoleum erected in the form of a dome, supported by Corinthian columns ; and a large oblong chamber, with a great gate on each side, intended, perhaps, for a triumphal arch. These, and several other edi- fices of the like nature, sufficiently shew the importance of this city in former times." — Ed. ^ 112 REMAINS OF JULIA C^SARIA. villages. There are some remains of Siga, and of Pontns Divini, mentioned by Strabo. At Dugga are seen vast ruins, amongst the rest a temple of marble, supposed to have been dedicated to the apotheosis of Trajan. The small city of Andalouse, founded by the Moors who were driven out of Spain, is still in existence; shewing the fondness which even these people had for keeping up the remembrance of their lost country. At Shershell is sup- posed to be seen the remains of Julia Casaria, the ruins con- sist of large cisterns, mosaic pavements, columns, &c. Arzew is the Arsenaria of antiquity. But the most interesting spot in this country, is Cirta, now Constantina, and once the capital of Massa- nissa, one of the most beautiful situations in all Africa, and full of the finest remains.* At Medraschetn is seen a stupendous fabric, sup- posed to be the tomb of Syphax and other Numiilian kings. In this ruin the Arabs fancy that great treasures are buried ; but being guarded by the black spirits, they cannot get possession of thein. There are also very extensive ruins on the mountains of Conca Labez, but these are supposed to be of Arabic origin. The whole country, in fact, exhibits innumerable traces of what it was in better times ; and con- trasted with its present degraded situation only serves to heighten our regret, at the lamentable change in its destiny. Algiers, which many have confounded with Casaria, is now gene- rally supposed to be the Jomniuni of antiquity, the former having had a fine port, which could not exist at Algiers in those days : as the most accurate observations prove it to have been an island called Al Guisars, Avhich the Arabs joined to the main, giving it the addi- * Poiret, a French traveller, who visited the Algerine territory in 1789, has the fol- lowing remark on this city : " Nous entràmes ensuite dans le province de Gigiri, qui n'oifre rien de remarquable ; il n'en est pas de meme de Constantina capitale de la province du meme noni. Cette ville offre partout aux curieux des precieux restes de son ancienne magnificence. On ne pent se proniener au milieu de ses colonnes renversces, de ses tem- ples detruit sans éprouver un sentiment douloureux qui nous porte à pleurer sur le rivage de temps et les miseres humaines." — Ed. MODE OF BUILDING. 113 tional appellation of Gezir bene Mozana, from the family who founded the city. By the Moors and Turks it is styled Al jelzir Algu- zie, Algiers, the warlike. The position of this place is remarkably strong, and it is defended by several very formidable batteries : that of the Round Castle is bomb proof; those of Rabat Baker, which defend the port, are built with great solidity, and even elegantly formed. The castle of Sit Alcolett has also great command over the water. The Star Battery, and that of the Emperor, are chiefly useful against a besieging enemy by land. A deep ditch surrounds the city walls, the lower parts of which are in many places composed of marble. The Casserbach, and Castle of Alcasabar, in the city, are both very fine fortifications, and have generally large garrisons. There are usually four or five thousand men to work the guns in case of sudden assaidt; but nothing can «xceed their ignorance of artillery and bad management of cannon. It should be observed, that a land force would have many advantages over a maritime one in the attack of Algiers, owing to the positions afforded by the surrounding hills, many of which cominand along the frigid career of life, only intent upon accuniuliiting the means of future repose. A happy combination of warmth and humidity, gives a great degree both of vigour and magnificence, to the vegetable ]>roductions of Barbary. Although the lower class subsist principally on barley, yet wheat and Indian corn is extremely abundant. There is also a species of chick-peas, which is roasted in a pan, and thus forms an important article of consumption amongst the people. The prickly pear abounds all over this country, and what it wants in picturesque beauty, is made up by its utility; for wliile the tree forms an im- penetrable hedge, the fruit is excessively nutritive and wholesome. Vines grow to a prodigious height, and passing naturally from one tree to another, form beautiful arbours: their size is equally remark- able, being sometimes as large at the root, as a tolerably proportioned olive tree. The latter is also a very favourite production of northern Africa; and besides the immense quantities of trees, wild and culti- vated, the Algerine territory produces a small thorny tree, which bears a fruit equal in size and flavour to the large olive of »Spain. Their pomegranates are at least three times larger than those of Italy, and the pumpkins grow to an enormous magnitude. In addition to all those fruits common to Europe, the oranges and figs of this country are of the most exquisite flavour; the chesnut tree does not grow to a very large size in Barbary, but the nut though small is very sweet. The oaks are in some places, particularly on the sea coast, of an immense size, and extremely lofty : of these the quercus ballota of naturalists also abounds, its acorn being very nourishing to several animals, and not unlike the wild chesnut. This important tree, so well known in Spain, would also be a great acquisition to Italy, into which it has not hitherto been introduced. Amongst different species of the cypress, there is one seen in the vicinity of Algiers, remarkable for its unusual loftiness, and pyramidical form; the almond and nndberry tree are also found in great abundance. The indigo fera glauca, yields a valuable dye; and there is a highly esteemed mediciual plant found 120 THE LOTUS. in this part of Africa, vulgarly called cineraria, which is considered by the natives as a sovei-eign remedy in several diseases. Another herb, the .renna, furnishes the inhabitants with the celebrated juice with which their nails are tinged. Amongst botanical plants is the Scilla marittima, the bulbosa radicata, and dwarf palm, which yields an exceedingly small date ; also the saccharum celindricum and agrostis jjungens. In the more arid vallies are to be found the reseda odorata, erica arborea, and superb cactus ; all of which afford excellent pasture for lambs, while they perfume the air with grateful odours ; also the laurel rose, which cheers and vivifies the country, when all other flowers are dried up by autumnal heat. The hills are covered with thyme and rosemary, which at once purify the atmo- sphere, and supply in many places the deficiencies of fuel ; the traveller's sight is also continually regaled with extensive tracts thickly planted with roses of every hue, for the distillation of the famous essence or otto of roses so well known in Europe. This fine climate has at all times been highly favorable to the culture of sugar cane; that of Soli- man, being considered the largest and most prolific of any in the world. Indeed this plant is thought by many to be indigenous to Bar- bary, from whence, together with Sicily, it was originally supplied, to the West India islands. But the most celebrated tree in Africa is the lotus, equally renowned by poets and naturalists. Pliny called it the ornamental tree of Africa. Its Arabic denomination is Seedra. It is the grand symbol of eastern mythology, and tree of many virtues ! The Brah- mins of tlie Ganges relate that Brahma was born in the hallowed bosom of the lotus ; and Visnon, emblem of the conservative prin- ciple, is represented with a lotus branch of the aquatic species; indi- cating that every thing has sprung from the ocean.* It has a consi- derable resemblance to the jujube, but its fruit is smaller, containing more substance, and of a round form : its colour is that of saffron * M. Pluche, the author of a most learned aud entertaining book L' Histoire du del, published above seventy years ago at Amsterdam, but very little known in this country, Tin: LOTUS. 121 growing and heconiing ripe on tlie tree like myrtle ])errie.s. The negroes call it Tomberon<>; making a kind of bread out of the farinaceous piirt of tlie fruit, by exposing it in tiie air for some days : and, when perfectly dry, jtoundiiig it in a mortar, the cruder })articles are then sejiarated from the meal, and these, when mixed with water, make a cooling and agreeable beverage. By adding a little flour, and boiling it, this draught may be converted into a very savoury and substantial hasty pudding. The lotus is also eaten in its natural state as we do plumbs; and it is not improbable, but that it used formerly to be distilled into spirit. Pliny says, that it gave a name to one of the provinces, the inhabi- tants of which, made the lotus their principal food : hence the famovis Lotophagi, who inhabited the vicinity of the Syrtis Magna, now on the coast of Tripoly, between Bengazi and Cape Mesurata. His- torians add, that strangers were so well received by these people, that, after having partaken for any time of the lotus, they forget their country, and were no longer willing to abandon this hosj)itable shore. The companions of Ulysses absolutely refused to follow their master, who conducted them amongst the Lotophagi, and persisted in remaining with their new friends. The case is, however, sadly altered in the present day : when, so far iVom feeling any inclination to remain in Africa, those who go there, particularly as I did, are glad enough to get away as soon as they can. The palm tree, another singular production of this continent, and frequently met with in Algiers, possesses a much greater share of bark than solid wood, yet it is extremely tough and difficult to break. It requires thirty years to bring this tree to maturity ; after which they continue to bear for sixty, annually yielding from fifteen to twenty bunches of dates, weighing as many pounds : these grow beneath the gives an interesting illustration of the uses to which the Lotus was applied by the early people of Egypt ; and in another part of his work observes : " Le Lotus est une espéce le oymphea qui vient abondamment au bord du Nil, et qui outre les secours que les Egyptiens, tiroient de son fruit, dont ils faisoient du pain, donne aussi une belle fleur qui s'ópanouit le matin, et se ferme le soir." — Ed. R 122 PECULIARITIES OF THE PALM. leaves, which areali attached to the trunk, and grow directly out of it towards the top. When the fruit is taken down, it is enclosed in skins, by which its flavour is better preserved, and ripening greatly facilitated. While on the tree, the dates have a yellow tint, which, when ripe, changes to a reddish hue : when gathered, they are as sour as cyder apples, and it is some time before they acquire sweetness. The greatest number of palms in the Algerine territory, are found on a range of hills towards the Atlas, called Jibbel Karkan ; but the finest dates, though not so large as the produce of this quarter, are those which grow in sandy soils, particularly the Biledulgerid. The various and important uses of this tree have already been described by travellers; and when we consider the quantity of fruit and lackby it- yields, together with its ultimate application of being converted into^ rafters for houses, its general utility does not fall very short of the lotus. The date tree often grows to the height of eighty and ninety feet ; and nothing can be more curious, in theway of climbing, than to witnessthe facility with which the negroes ascend, without having an}' place what- ever on the branchless trunk to set their feet : the ascent is effected bj»^ means of a rope fastened to the body, and then pas.sed round the tree. In this state the climber sup])orts himself with the left arm, until the rope is slipped up by the right hand, when, by pulling it tight, he is enabled successively to change his position till the top is gained. I have omitted to observe, that the palm also yields a rich syrup like honey, which is generally .served up as a great luxury, in all the Moorish feasts, given by the higher orders : this syrup, if kept many days, ferments, aud becomes very good lackby. In .some places, the fibrous bark of the tree is spun into cord for rope, and thread to make sails : while the leaves are transformed into fans, parasols, work-baskets, and various other ornaments. In opposition to the general nature of plants, which do not pros- per in the spot on which similar ones have perished, the palm springs up with increased vigour on the ashes of its predecessor. This curious fact is by the Italian traveller Mariti, supposed to have furnished PALM TREE SYMUOLICAL. 12-3 eastern niytlioloa;'ists witli the marvellous regeneration of the phoenix ; that term meaniiin pahn tree, both in the Jlebrew and Phoenician dialects. Next to the cocoa nut of India, and bread fruit of the Friendly Islands, the palm tree is justly considered as that which renders most service to liumanitv : enliveninsr the horrid surface of the desert, it shields the pilgrim from the scorching rays of a perpendicular sun ; and feeds and refreshes the traveller who wanders through the dreary solitudes. Independently of the nutrii ious liquid produced by this celebrated tree, which may be converted into wine, spirit, or a «;ool- ing beverage, its fruit has often sustained caravans, which, without its friendly aid, might have perished in the pathless waste. The palm is also the emblem of glory, triumph, and the heroic virtues. The eloquent author of the Harmonies of Nature, has also called it the tree of the sun, I'arbre par excellence. Like the gnomen of that great luminary, its leaves mark the days ; while years are repre- sented by the circles in its trunk. It is, of all other trees, the most graceful : like the Egyptian symbol of immortality tapering towards the top until its majestic front spi-eads before the face of Heaven. Ulysses, wishing to explain the secret charm which he felt on being near the beautiful queen of Ogygia, compared it to the lively transport he exjierienced at Delos, on seeing the wonderful palm suddenly spring up near the temple of the gods. This extraordinary tree also makes a conspicuous figure in the loves of the plants ; having afibrded a fertile .source of ingenious imagery and versification to Dr. Darwin. The sexes are clearly dis- tinct; the masculine transferring the fruit and its flavour to the female plant : when the husk containing the .seeds and flowers of the fruit, begin to open, a bunch is taken from the masculine and scattered over it. The impetuous winds of the north unite the lofty cedars of Lebanon, and the trembling zephyrs of morn refresh the fragrant rose of Jerico. But the desolating blasts of Africa destroy all that comes within their noxious influence. It is therefore necessary, R 2 124 DOMESTIC ANIMALS. that art and the fostering care of man, should preside over the chaste intercourse of the prolific palm. Of domestic animals, there is no scarcity in Barbary : the cows are smaller than those of Europe, and owing to the Mant of pasture land, do not give much milk, which generally ceases with the loss of their calf. Of goats there is a great variety, and some of the breeds are unequalled by any others in the world ; their colour seldom varies from pure white, which accounts for the dress of the Bedouins ; while, from a contrary reason, that of the Spanish peasantry is com- posed of dark brown. One of these species is remarkable for a long tail : the fat is .said to be excellent for frying or making pastry. There is another race, which are as high as a good sized deer, to which they bear some resemblance, except in the hair, which grows long like other goats. The tender mercies of the Mahometan religion, regards it as an impiety to mutilate these animals, while it is daily practised with perfect indifference on human beings ! The asses of Barbary are fully equal to those of Egypt, or the Marches of Ancona: these faithfid and persecuted animals supply the place of landaus and fiacres to the natives : their sonorous voices discover the vicinity of tlie Arabs at night. Their flesh is held in the highest estimation by the Moors, who are as fond of a young suckling as even Caius Alnius Mecaenas was in the days of Roman gastronomy. It is not to be wondered at, that with such horses and asses, the Barbary mule should be unequalled : they are more esteemed than the former, on account of their sure foot, and carrying a much heavier load. Their resistance to fatigue, and regular pace, also gives the mule great superiority in this country ; their long step is acquired by having their legs extended and kept tied up in that position for some minutes. Dogs are hated by the Moors : this accounts for the very flattering appellation bestowed so liberally on Christians. Cats, on the other hand, are great favourites, and as beautiful as those of Angola. United to their natural inclination for this animal, grave and drowsy like themselves, there is a certain religious veneration, created by the BARllARY HORSES. 12Ó recollection of the prophet's teiuleiness for a cat, which he once found sleeping in the sleeve of his mantle; which, rather than disturb her, he cut oft' with his sabre, and with the cloak thus mutilated, went to oft'er up his prayers at the sacred shrine. The horses of Barbary would be fully equal in beauty and sym- metry to those of Arabia, if attended to by the Moors with the same care, and like the Arab of the desert, they made a friend of this noble animal, and placed their chief pride in his superiority of condition; but it is impossible to become attached to, or sufficiently careful of them under a despotism like that of Algiers, where no man is sure of keeping what he possesses. The horses employed in the Pasha's service, are suffered to remain for whole days saddled, with their feet bound, exposed to the heat of the sun, and head hanging down, which is only raised to cast an ineffectual look on their indolent masters. They are also generally broke in too soon ; and this, in a mountainous country, has the effect of bringing them down long before the usual time : their constant exposure to thirst is another great cause of suffering to the Moorish horses. With all these incon- veniences, the Barbary horse isextremelyactive, laborious, and patient of fatigue: fidi of fire and vigour, he often retains his powers to the age of thirty ; — he is usually nimble, meagre, and long backed, with uncommonly slight limbs : he is not, however, by any means quick in cavalry evolutions. Admirably well calculated by his natural impe- tuosity for the charge, he is stubborn when attempted to be trained in tlie various movements of European horsemen ; the barb's mouth is so hard, as to require a much stronger bit than that used in Europe; the bridle is long, having also a whip at the end of it. They are frequently exercised to gallop, with the reins thrown loosely over the neck ; and one of the greatest merits of the horseman is to stop them suddenly when at full speed. During these equestrian sports, it is common to see the Turkish horseman rush up towards a house, wall, or tree, and when close to it stop short : this is sometimes practised towards friends by the way of a pleasant joke ; into the spirit ot which. 126 THE DESERT HORSE. these gallant gentlemen never could persuade nie to enter, though several attempts were made for that purpose. This practice is of course very injurious to the horses,andI'have seen many of the cavaliers measure their length, and like the heroes of the Iliad, bite the dust, in these awkward attempts to display their agility. The African horse never walks or trots, his pace being a constant gallop while in motion : hence the name of Barb is given to race horses. Many celebrated English horses, than which there are no finer in the universe, except perhaps, those of Nubia, have been bred from the barbs. The horses of Barbary are admirably calculated for perpetuating the breed j but are fitter to produce horses for the course than general work. The mares are generally preferred by the Moors. Besides their being lighter, their not neighing prevents the rider from being so easily discovered ; and, on this account, are more convenient for a sudden attack or nocturnal enterprize. The wild, or desert horse, is lean, ugly, and ill made; yet his velocity often equals that of a stag : he is taken with great diflSculty, and for this purpose a snare is generally used. Brought to Morocco or Algiers, he becomes fat, and of course looks better, but soon dies : his life is in the freedom of the desert. This is probably the mule of Tartary, of which some naturalists have given an account. There is very little water given to horses in the hot seasons ; camel's milk is frequently supplied, and of this they are remarkably fond, it agreeing with them extremely well. The mutilation of this princely animal is unknown, and inadmissible amongst the Mahometans : they say it diminishes their strength and courage, and of this they seem quite sure; they are also of opinion that it makes them ungrateful and vicious: this may also be tlie case. A lady complaining of a singer, ex- claimed: " What an ungrateful man! it was my micie who made a musician of him, and he has passed through the town, without ever calling to ask how he was !" But of all the animals peculiar to Africa, the camel, which they emphatically call the ship of the desert, is by far the greatest gift THE CAMKL. 127 Providence has bestoived on its inhabitants, either for the ordinary necessities of life, or enabling them to traverse their immense regions of sand. It is in the desert, that our respect for this animal is redoubled ; he is so highly venerated by the people, that they wash themselves with the foam which issues from his mouth, and with much more I'eason than the Gentoos, who are besmeared with cow- dung: they style him Hagi Babà, Father of Pilgrims, referring to the honor he has of carrying the presents of the Grand Seignor to Mecca. Mahomet also permitted his entry into Paradise, as a reward for the .services which his species had rendered the prophet. The camel carries an immense weight, and often receives a whole family on his back: it gives its milk, flesh, skin, and hair; to feed, clothe, and afford a covering to the wandering tribes. At night, it shelters the weary traveller stretched along the sand, watches over his slumbers, and like the faithful dog, averts him of the enemy's approach. His instinct enables him to smell the distant water ; he recognises the .spot with wonderful precision : he is the very type of patience, fortitude, and perseverance : charged with a heavy load, constantly trav; Uing over the sand, exposed to hunger, thirst, and the hottest rays of the sun, he suffers the fatigue and pain with incom- parable meekness: he lies down on the burning sand, without betray- ing the least degree of impatience : while at all able to support his load, and continue the journey, he strains every nerve to proceed ; he neither flags nor relaxes, until absolutely worn out, when he falls, to rise no more: thus rendering his last breath, on the very spot he ceases to be useful ! The camel is occasionally employed in the plough and other agricultural pursuits, like oxen or horses in Europe ; but he is more generally occupied as a beast of burthen. He kneels while the lo^d is placed on his back, and signifies that enough is put on, either by a hiss or shake of the head. He never stumbles or falls. There is no necessity either to beat or direct him : his pace is slow, but he makes 128 PROPERTIES OF THE CAMEL. ' long strides, and continues to march fifteen and sixteen hours tollovv- ing, going- about two miles and a half an hour. He finds some difficulty in passing over muddy ground, on which, from the peculiar form of his feet, he is apt to slip. When there are many of these animals travelling together, the drivers beat drums, and attach small bells to the knees of the leading camel; and if it becomes necessary to quicken their pace, the iVrabs form a kind of song, which has the immediate effect of cheering up the whole party, and making them redouble their pace. Their load generally extends from a thousand to fifteen hundred weight, but never even a half pound beyond his exact burthen. He can abstain from water four or five days, without relaxing in his progress: satisfied if in that time he is allowed, en passant, to pluck up any roots or twigs that may lay in his way. He seems even to like nettles, wormwood, and the most insipid thistles : collecting in a species of sack, which he has under his neck, the barley and small loaves which are given to him on the day of depar- ture, he goes on eating or chewing the cud in his road. The very hump on his back serves for his nourishment, and often in the days of hunger and starvation disappears. Arriving at a well or fountain, nature has wisely provided him with vessels, in which he lays in a stock of water for several days, besides refreshing himself for the tune being ; and the water thus imbibed has frequently, on the beast's dying, been the cause of preserving the lives of travellers. The natives of Atrica esteem camels' flesh more than that of any other animal : to me it appeared tough, but the milk is excellent, and makes as good cheese, as that of Pratalino or Ronta.* Love alone gives to these animals, and particularly the female, a feeling of rage and violence : at this season they kick and bite, and it is necessary to muflle them ; a species of bladder hangs from their mouth, out of which issues a quantity of foam. They often fight. * Two districts in the Florentine territory famous for cream cheese. — £d. ADVICK FROM AN ENRMY. I2i) and their hostility afJords as arreat amusement to the Turks and Moors, as the English derive from cook-fi^htini;-.* It is curious to see how they jostle up against each otlier; and how the v:in«|uis[ied party is followed by the hisses of the bye-standers, while applause crowns the victors, as if Grecian athleta; or Roman gladiators had been exhibiting. The camel, peculiar to Barbary, and belonging to the species called demel, is considered much superior to that of Asia. The dromedary, of which there are very few kept in Algiers, though merely a variation of the same race, are much more elegantly formed than the camel, * Having in a former note taken occasion to express my opinion of (hat unmanly iiliberality and rooted antipathy constantly manifested towards England, by a large party in France ; but more particularly its impotent scribblers, newspaper editors, &c. 1 have too much patriotism, not to acquiesce in the justice of many errors and abuses, which are proper subjects of animadversion amongst our neighbours. And the national character could not appear more exalted, than in a dignified endeavour to profit by ihe wholesome advice of our adversaries. As, according to a celebrated maxim of a Latin poet, we are justified in deriving instruction, even from an enemy; it is with a feeling of this kind, I shall anxiously look forward to the discontinuance of many barbarous customs, which only wait the fiat of legislative wisdom to be for ever banished from our shores, as they have already been from the mistaken admiration of a large majority of the people. Much too, as the sycophantic author of aSV.i- Mois à Lone/res, and that still more pitiful calunmiator M. Pillet has (aught me to despise him, I am nevertheless induced most seriously (o recom- mend the former's sneering observations on the Gothic pastime alluded to by Mr. Pananti, bull-baiting, pugilism, the monopoly of brewers, mode of puffing, lotteries, and their gene- ral tendency to strike at the very root of public morals, &c. All of these subjects are most intimately connected with our best interests, and particularly worthy the ma(urest consideration of the legislature. Without denying the impossibility of removing evils that are purely the offspring of circumstances, which all the wisdom of government could nei- ther foresee nor prevent, or indulging in visionary schemes of moral and political perfec- tion, I humbly presume that in the whole catalogue of human reasoning, there is not a more legitimate or fairer subject of discussion, than the removal of evils which would at once add amazingly to the popularity of men in power, and stability of the government, while its effects on human happiness must be absolutely incalculable. When, therefore, the principle of expediency loses somewhat of its present influence, let us hope that legis- lation will assume its proper place in society, and be rather in advance of, than behind, what the French so emphatically denominate l'esprit du aiècle. — Ed. s 130 PROPEUTIES OF THE CAMEL. bearing about the same proportion to it, that a greyhound does to the house dog. They have a ring fixed to the upper lip, and a cord fastened to this, serves for guide and bridle. The velocity of this animal, even after every allowance is made for the marvellous stories of the Arabs, is almost incredible ; and their figurative mode of giving you an idea of its celerity in travelling over the desert, has often been noticed. They say, " when you meet a hierie, and say to the rider salem alik, before he can answer alik salum, he will be nearly out of sight." Mr. Jackson, an intelligent English traveller, ob- serves, in speaking of this wonderful animal, " a journey of thirty- -five days caravan travelling will be performed by a Sebayee in five days : they go from Timbuctoo to Morocco in seven days. One of these animals once came from Fort St. Joseph, on the Senegal river, to the house of Messrs. Cabane and Depras, atMogador, in seven days." The person employed to conduct the desert camel, as he is called by the natives, is obliged to be tightly bound up, to keep his head closely covered, and sit on the animal sideways, in order to prevent the effects of the atmosphere on his face ; and in this posture he is enabled to traverse the solitary waste of sand, almost with the rapidity of an arrow. The manner in which the camel is formed, and which makes it capable of resisting the difficulties of travelling in Africa, is no less admirable than its various other qualities. The elevated position of his head prevents the sutfocating effects of those volumes of sand, which, though generally in motion, passes along the desert under the camel's body; he also keeps his eyes half shut, and they are besides defended with thick eye-lids and long eye-lashes. The soles of liis feet are remarkably broad, and made like little cushions, producing a very trifling impression on the vaccillating surface ; his fatigue is also considerably diminished by advancing two common paces of the horse at a time: so that while all other animals find the greatest difficulty in going over the sands of the desert, it seems the camel's native element. Amongst the wild beasts of Barbary, none is more common than QDADHIPEDS. 131 the boar ; but this animal frequently falls a victim to the stronger beasts of prey, particularly the lion, whose mode of seizing it is blended with a wonderful ilegree of instinct : when discovered in its retreat, the lion immediately turns up a cinndar mound all round the spot, leaving a small aperture near which it crouches down in ambuscade. When the effluvia proceeding from the lion, becomes sufficiently strong to indicate its being close at hand, the boar crawls towards the opening, andsuddenlj^ rushes out; when by a single bound, the ferocious enemy is on its back, and instant destruction follows. Thus it is with the beasts of the field : the strongest, not satisfied with its natural supe- riority, must have recourse to cunning, in order to destroy the weak and feeble ! The wild boar of this country differs from that of Italy, by having the head larger, and two long tusks inclining upwards from the jaw, which appear like additional ears. Porcupines are found in great numbers. Hares are few and of a diminutive size ; and scarcely any rabbits are to be seen. Game of almost every kind is abundant. The huhker el vash, whose horns are much shorter than those of the common ox, the body plump and head more elevated, is probably the buphalus of antiquity. There is also a goat called lerive, of so timid a nature, that if pursued, it will dash itself down the nearest precipice : this is the fugephalus of the ancients. There are large flocks of the antelope running wild ; but they are easily domesticated, and are much liked by the Arabs for their gentleness and docility. These beautiful little animals generally inhabit the borders of the desert, where their facilities of escape are considerably increased; but beasts of prey usually follow their footsteps : neither its innocence or speed is sufficient to secure the antelope's liberty ; and even the dreary desert cannot afford an asylum against tyranny. / Amongst the most curious quadrupeds of Barbarj, is the gat el hallak, with the ears of a rat ; the lower part of the skin white, and all the upper part a bright yellow. They also mentioned another animal, which is said to have the head and horns of au ox on the body of an ass. I did not, however, see this non-descript ; and those s 2 132 THt: hy/ii;n/V. who said they had, were probably taken in by the kno\^ ing ones. In a certain eonntry there was once exhibited a zebra, which in reality was only an ass, covered with a skin of the former animal : however, a professor of natural history, who went to see it, stoutly maintained that it was neither more nor less than a real zebra. Upon this judi- cious opinion, an ingenious copy of verses were composed, each couplet terminating with the following burden : Le profcsseur a dit que c'étoit une zebre, c'ètoit une àrie ! There are no tigers in Barbary : those which people take for that animal are panthers. Towards the Atlas are found ferocious brown bears. The lions chiefly frequent large woods and forests : the jackall, nearly as large as the wolf, an incessant prey to hunger, goes about the villages in flocks with terrific howling, frequently opening graves in search of carcases to devour; the hyaena, on the contrary, is always alone, sallying forth in darkness and silence, ta make war on the habitations of men, and on animals : following the caravans, or other parties of travellers, with eager eyes, he waits the moment of assault. These animals have also a peculiar instinct in smelling the newly buried at a great distance, which they take an early opportu- nity of tearing from their earthly mansion ; satiating themselves on the half putrified corpse. Strange! that there should be an animal which delights to feast on the infection of the tomb ! Hyaenas are also endowed with the instinct of associating together in suflicient numbers, to kill the most formidable animal ; vipon which they feed, and after- wards, drag it into the recesses of the woods and caves which they inhabit. Both the caravans and wandering Arabs are obliged, while tra- velling, to be constantly on their guard against the various beasts of prey which follow their courses : particularly during their halts at night, when the encampment must not only be formed on the best principles of defence, but fires lighted all round : and even these precautions are sometimes found insuflicient to deter the famished wolf, or greedy jackall. The lion is, however, by far the most terrific LION HUNTERS. 133 adversary met with by the caravans : his approach is announced by a deep ninrniiinnt;, which increases until it sounds like tlinnder ; thus petrifying' the animals with fear: and whih' in this state, not unfre- quently does the sovereign of the forest rush upon his victim, and get clear off in the general confusion, before a single ball has reached him. There are regular lion hunters inseverai parts of Bar) )ary, who, notwithstanding its otlensive smell and excessive hardness, live on the flesh, from which even dogs will turn with disgust. There are two modes of killing the lion : one is by tying a cow or other tame animal to a tree, ajid watching near it concealed till it attracts the lion, when several shots are fired, and he falls ; they do not, however, go up to the spot for some time after, lest the wound should not be mortal : they also form large fosses, which being covered with .slight bushes and gTa.ss, lets the lion fall in directly he treads on them. Upon these occa- sions, his skin is either put on their horses, and carried along in triumph ; or, like another Alcides, one of the party throws it over his shoulders. The ornithology of Barbary, like the other departments of itsnatu- ral history, is yet open for the illustration of the curious; and will, on some future day, furnish an ample field for the gratification of science and curiosity. The birds most commonly known at present, include all those peculiar to Italy and the re.st of Europe, besides many other species, a few of which are about to be noticed. The quail and starling is found in prodigious numbers, particularly the former, which is sometimes seen to cover a large space in the atmosphere; and as a bird of passage, supplies the opposite shore of the Mediterranean with a great luxury towards the autumn. There are also in this country, at least twenty species of the pigeon : the stork is preserved with the same respect as in Holland. Fowls of the capon kind, are exceedingly abundant. I also observed, while at Algiers, larks of a reddish hue, which are not seen in Italy. The common duck of Barbary, has the head generally white, a red beak and dark body, except the w ings, which are often variegated with light colouretl spots. 134 THF, OSTRICH. Amongst the rare birds, is the karabur, or ash coloured falcon, and crow of the desert, having- the beak and legs red like the partridge : this bird is called grauh, and is of a much larger size than the Euro- pean crow. The snharag, is like our magpie, but having a most repul- sive note. The houbarry, whose gall is considered as a sovereign remedy for diseases of the eye, is also reniarkal>le for its cunning mode of evading the sparrow-hawk. Tlie capsa, a sparrow larger than ours, with a shining breast, and ruddy coat like the lark. The melody of this bird's note far surpasses that of our nightingale or lin- net; but when placed in a cage it loses all its harmony. The Desert of Angad abounds with ostriches, which are seen in large flocks. At a distance they look like troops of Bedouins, often creating alarm in tiavellers. At the beginning of winter the large, or as it is called camel-ostrich, sheds its finest feathers, which are dili- gently collected by the Arabs. This is the only bird of the feathered tribe whose foot is composed of two claws, in which it also resembles the camel, as well as in the mode of carrying its head. The coat looks more like a skin than otherwise, while its wings seem given to .support an equilibrium, which without them, must be, from his unwieldy size, constantly endangered. In fact, this extraordinary bird appears to have hitherto puzzled the acutest naturalists in their systematic divisions of the feathered race. One mode of liunting the ostrich, is by forcing whole flocks to run against the wind, until their strength fails, when in attempting to return they are shot by a party of thirty or forty hunters employed for that purpose. It is said to be very ludicrous and amusing.* * A traveller in speaking of this singular bird, observes, " When the ostrich runs, it has a proud and haughty look ; and even when in extreme distress, never appears in great haste, especially if the wind is with it. Its wings are frequently of material use in aiding its escape, for when the wind blows in the direction that it is pursuing, it always flaps them: in this case the swiftest horse cannot overtake it; but if the weather be hot, and there is uo wind, or if it has by any accident lost a wing, the difficulty of outrunning it is not so great."— AV. THE SCORPION. 13Ó This country, owing to its uncultivated and thinly inhabited state, naturally abounds in reptiles of various kinds, many of which are venomous. It was probably a serpent of the hoa species, which is said to have impeded the army of Regulus, and required its warlike machinery to destroy it. Amongst a great variety of insects, none is more annoying than the fly of Barbary: a swarm of them has been often known to sting a horse until it has fallen under the loss of blood occasioned by their repeated attacks. But the most dangerous rep- tile of this country is the scorpion, of which there are various kinds, differing in colour, irom black and brown, to yellow and white, like that of the Brazils. They are much larger than those seen in Italy ; and their poison is so powerful, that many persons die annually from its etfects. Their sting, although excessively painful, is not, however, mortal in the months of July, August, or September. They are also more dangerous in towns than the country. From the facility with which this reptile introduces itself into houses, and even beds, the inha- bitants are obliged to lie verv cautious in detaching the latter together Avith their curtains from the walls. There are persons, who like the Psylli of old, have some method of charming the scorpion, by which it becomes perfectly harmless for the time. The natives frequently amuse themselves by a curious kind of war- fare, which is created by shutting up a scorpion and arattogetherina'close cage, when a terrible contest ensues. I have seen this continue some- times for above an hour : it generally ends by the death of the scor- pion ; but in a little time after the rat begins to swell, and in violent convulsions, soon shares the fate of his vanquished enemy. It is also a favourite diversion with the Moors, to surround one of these reptiles with a circle of straw, to which fire is applied ; after making .several attempts to pass the flames, it turns on itself, and thus becomes its own executioner.* The most destructive part of the insect tribe, and which is justly * This very singular fact is finely alluded to by Lord Byron, in his Giaour. — Ed. Uiii LOCUSTS. considered as the greatest scourge in Africa, rejuains to be noticed : tliis is the locust : it is much larger than the horse-fly of Italy; some have the wings marked with brown spots, while the body is of a bright yellow. They are dry and vigorous, like other insects inhabit- ing the desert. What is called the red ski})per of this tribe, does by far the most injury to vegetation. They generally begin to appear early in May, spreading themselves over the plains and vallies to deposit their eggs : which, in another month, sends forth the young-, when they immediately associate in prodigious numbers, often form- ing a compact phalanx, which covers several acres of ground. In this order they continue a direct course, and with amazing rapidity con- sume every particle of fruit, vegetables, and coi-n that may lie in their way : thus destroying all the hopes of the husbandman and farmer. On these occasions the whole population of the district through which the insect army passes, is occupied in devising the best means of getting rid of such unprofitable visitors: for this purpose, ditches are dug and filled with water ; at other times recourse is had to large bon- fires ; but all is to no purpose with these devastators, whose chie.s seem to direct them with the precision of regular troops, constantly stimu- lating them to the pas de charge, and from their unremitted progress, appear as if they were continually repeating en avanti Without ever stopping or turning aside, they rush with impetuosity into the flames until they are fairly extinguished by their numbers. They also fill the ditches : and when these obstacles are removed, the rear advance over their bodies, rendering it impossible for any part of those before to retreat, if ever so well inclined : they are thus left no alternative between death and victory : the living passing with perfect indifference over the suffocated bodies of their companions, the journey is pursued without any intermission. Two or three days after the first passage, other bodies, equally large, and prompted by the same destructive intrepidity, follow in their steps : devouring the bark and branches of those very trees which their predecessors had already stript of leaves and fruit. " For they covered the face of the DIIKADFUL EFFECTS OF LOCUSTS. 137 whole eartli, so that the land was darkened ; and they did eat every herb of the land, and all the tVnit of the trees which the hail had left ; and there remained not any green thing in the trees, or in the herbs of the tield through all the land of Egypt." Exodus, ch. x. 15. Having continued this predatory warfare for nearly a month, and laid waste the whole country, they reach their natural growth : this is the signal for their undergoing a partial metamorphosis, by changing their coat ; an operation which is etfected by fixing them- selves on bushes or rocks, and it does not require more than ten minutes before they are enabled to appear in their new dress ; laying for a short interval after this, in a state of languor, the heat of the sun soon gives fresh vigour to their wings, by removing the humidity, and they are once more restored to their original activity. Taking a higher flight, their numbers darken the air, while the sound of their wings is heard for several miles. The unchangeable steadi- ness with which this singular tribe act in concert during their irrup- tion, seems to imply a regular direction, rather than its being the mere effect of instinct. Whenever a country is condemned to the above terrible visita- tion, nothintf can exceed the alarm created amongst the inhabi- tants; and with good reason, for woe to the district over which they j)ass ! All is destroyed in little more than the space of an hour : they do not suffer even a leaf or blade of grass to remain ; destroying every appearance of vegetation. During their short stay, they have all the inquietude and instabilità^ of hunger: wild as the country they inhabit, it is impossible for any one to get near them. Often, while following their dilatory course, they push on too far, and are precipitated into the sea ; at other times, a sudilen north wind destroys them by millions, when the country is immediately covered for many miles by their putrid Ijodies, which is frequently the source of pestilential diseases. Thej' have also, upon more than one occasion, when highly favoured by the weather, found their way to the coasts of France, Spain, and Italy. T 138 MOOK OK EXTIRPATION. If the Moors were less indolent, or less blinded by superstition, much might be done towards the total destruction of these voracious insects, when their eggs are first laid ; but, in addition to their favourite doc- trine of predestination, which accelerates many a serious calamity, the Arabs and negroes firmly believe in the existence of a bird called the samarìììoo; which destroys the locust, as storks do serpents and other reptiles : with this fabulous notion, the boys who happen to take up one in their hand, cry out samarmog ; and on its trembling, or making any effort to escape, they immediately fancy it must pro- ceed from hearing the name of their implacable enemy pronounced. It is also related, that the Arabs go to Korazan, the country of the samarmog, and bringing a pitcher of water back to their own dwellings it attracts the bird, who is thus induced to come and make war on the locusts. ' AVhenever any district is attacked, as already observed, the whole population unites in every possible effort to dislodge the enemy; but seeing the inutility of these efforts, they not only cease any longer to torment themselves at the disappointment, but very wisely endeavour to turn their misfortune into a source of some advantage : this is effected by beating the bushes and trees on which the locusts settle, and on their falling off, putting them into sacks prepared for the purpose : they are then boiled, and after being dried on the terrace, are con- sidered as very good eating. I have tasted some that were fried in a pan, and broiled ; they are by no means unpalatable, and something like sprats, though not very wholesome : the natives seem to swallow them with a particular zest. This insect is, I believe, the acrides of the ancients; and, according to some historians, ministered to the wants of the anchorites in the Thebaid. DKSKllT Ol ANtiAJJ 13^ CHAPTER VII Desert of Ancad. — Hardships in croxsi/ig the Sahara or Great Desert. — Caravans. — The Simoom. — Various Phenomena attending it. — Columns of Sand. — The Oasis. — Temple of Atnmon. — Comolations in the Desert. — Mount Atlas. — Country South of it, éfc. Although the Desert of Aiigad, which is principally sitii:it(;tl on the Algerine territory, is not to be compared to that of Lybia or the Great Sahara ; yet, possessinii; the same character, thoiigli on so small a scale, it serves to give some idea of the large ones, which impress such peculiar features on the whole face of this interesting country. These immense deserts, wliich are sup})osed to occupy nearly half the surface of this vast continent, have been justly called oceans of sand : they, too, have their gulphs, bays, and islands ; and are sometimes agitated by an inidulating motion so as nearly to approach the same effect on water. Here also, as at sea, are encountered the tornado and tempest, while the tirst appearance of caravans are like ships seen on the horizon. Hordes of predatoiy Arabs scour the interminable space, as pirates do the ocean: weeks and months are pas«ed on them, during which stars are the traveller's guide ; and, as on the still more unconhned element, the eyes are often anxiously directed towards the destined port, with longing expectation. The vehemence of a burning wind which prevails on these vast plains, raising volumes of sand, which leave frightful chasujs and, vortexes below, has such a striking resemblance to the sea, that its common epithet among the Africans is, £/ bahar bilia maa, the sea without water. T 2 140 HORR(jRS OF THE DESERT. On these dreary wastes, no trace of vegetation or culture is to be seen : here it is in vain for the traveller to expect shade from the vertical sun ; no bird is there to cheer by its note the solemn stillness of the desert. The light, as observed by tlie great Buftbn, is here more gloomy than the darkness of night ; it only enables you to see the void that surrounds you, and immensity of space which separates you from a habitable country. If at night you wander from the caravan to breathe a little air, your own sighs are all that disturb the death-like silence of the desert : the traveller is obliged to lie down in the open air, and often without covering ; uncertain whetherthe follow- ing day is not ushered in with an illness which may lead to his being abandoned by his companions. Itis sometimes necessary to abstain from sleep for thirty hours together, to avoid the dangers which threaten you ; and during all that time, pursue the harassing march. It is a luxury, when crossing the desert, to imbibe the dews of night ; and when it rains, to spread your garments for the purpose of receiving the salutary drops. Arriving at a small reservoir, or a solitary well, the words " drink and depart!" salute the eye, as a warning that ban- ditti may be lying in wait near the spot. Hillocks of sand are thrown up on one day to answer as a direction for the following, but a whirlwind has dispersed them, and the caravan is thus frequently turned out of its course : the stars, too, are often so obscured by cloiids, that there is no possibility of seeing them. Another source of painfid anxiety : — the disconsolate traveller arrives at a well, nearly suffocated with sand and thirst, but he finds it dry ! He hears the famished beasts of prey, interrupt the horrid silence, while meditating on the frightful length of his remaining journey, and difficulty of reaching the end of it. His mind is terrified with the apprehension of dying by heat, hunger, thirst, and debility; or of being devoured by the monsters who prowl about these dreadful solitudes. Man is, as it were, lost in this empty and unlimited waste, in which he only beholds one vast sepulchre. The most dreadful stories are related of the innumerable perils HORRORS OF THli DESERT. 141 and disasters to which those who travel over the African deserts, are exposed. In the time of Leo Africanus, there was a public monu- ment wliich commemorated the deplorable end of two ])eople : one a conductor of camels, and the other a merchant ; who paid the former ten thousand drachms of gold for his last cup of water, after which both perished ! Notwithstanding the facility of joining a caravan, that has also its inconveniences : unable to make any delay, the .slow and enfee- bled are not considered : if taken ill, you are abandoned, and a strayed companion is never looked after. Let any one figure to himself, .says M. Denon, in his Travels through Egypt, the fate of an unfortunate being, panting with fatigue and hunger, all his limbs swelled, the throat parched up, w ho respires with difficulty the burning atmosphere which consmnes him ; he hopes that a tew moments of repose may revive his drooping frame ; he stops, and .sees the companions of his journey pass on, after having solicited their assistance in vain. — Personal calamity has shut every Vieart : — without once turning back, and with eyes fixed on the ground, each follows in silence the footsteps of him who goes before ; all have passed, and are nearly out of sight; the exhausted traveller attempts to follow, but his limbs fail him ; neither the perils nor terrors of his situation are sufficient to rouse him into activity. The caravan is gone : he now only sees it as a moving speck on the horizon ; at length it vanishes ! The unhappy man casts his eyes around ; what do they encounter I A wild expanse of lifeless sand and sky I They are then turned upon himself: he closes them to shut out the dreary void which surrounds him ; he only hears his own sighs; all that he has of existence belongs to death. Alone, isolated in the world, he is about to yield his last breath, without a single ray of hope to cheer the dying hour ; and his corse, consumed by the ardent surface, will soon only leave the whitened bones to .serve as a guide I4'i DESCRIPTION OF THE SIMOOM. to the uncertain steps of future travellers, who tempt the melancholy way, and have dared to encounter the same perils! That which some people emphatically style the horrible wind of the desert, is another of those phenomena, peculiar to the climate of Africa, which is justly calculated to annoy and alarm the most reso- lute traveller. This wind, which is known as the scirocco in the Mediterranean, is called samiel, by the inhabitants of Syria, kasmin in Egypt, and simoom by the people of Alrica. It generally continues three days; but has on some occasions been known to last from seven to twenty-one : commencing usually about one o'clock, it blows in sudden gusts, and moderates towards sun-set. The burning vapour is mostly preceded by a red meteor, which extends a considerable way over the horizon. The natives are pre- pared for its coming by a strong smell of bitumen, which proceeds from the red cloud : this increases gradually in magnitude, until it bursts on the alFrighted inhabitants, who on the tirst setting in of this dreadful wind, cry out, " Lay down close to the ground, behold the simoom !" On those occasions it is necessary to keep the mouth closed for some minutes, and if possible apply a haiulkerchief steeped in vinegar to the nose; to avoid imbibing the tirst effects of the pestife- rovis blast, which often suffocates in the absence of those necessary precautions, or gives rise to a perpetual asthma, in those who indulge the fatal cviriosity of contemplating that terrible phenomenon. Nature has taught animals to guard against it, by keeping their heads close to the ground, when it first comes on. Those who have suffered least from fatigue, are best able to meet the simoom : it frequently occurs that while this wind continues, several of a caravan lose all signs of animation, remaining in that state, until artificial means are employed for the purpose of bringing the sufferers back to life. When this wind begins, the upper part of the atmosphere assumes a bright yellow hue, while the lower is of a deep red. This effect is created by the rays of the sun penetrating an excessively fine sand, which soon insinuates itself into all the apertures of your clothes, finding its way into KFFECTS OF THi: f»IMOOM. Ì Ui the eyes, mouth, and ears, in larjue quantities. The air also becomes so obscured by the sand, that it is impossible to see three yards before you; while the dry heat of the simoom, inflames the blood, irritates the nerves, and (^))presses the luniks, renderinjH' respiration exceedingly painful. The heat of those days during which the simoom continues, is beyond all expression or belief; it is like passing before a .strongly heated oven. When the heart has burst, to use the expression of the Africans, the blood rapidly issues from the eyes, ears, and nostrils ; some hours after the body turns black, and the lindjs lose their elasticity. This is the wind called corruption in the sacred writings ; and poison by the Arabs. The orientals, in their enijihatical and figurative mode of speaking, when desirous of painting a violent and rapid conqueror in his exterminating course, compares him to the burning wind of the desert ! Often while the simoom continues, immense columns of sand are .seen to elevate themselves at different distances in the desert. Some- times they ascend to such a height as to be lost in air ; at others, they separate and cover the atmosphere with their fiery particles, or a dark mist; at times they assume the appearance of a thick wood, who.se lofty branches are agitated to and fro by the winds ; and on other occa- sions look like globes of smoke. Among the other eccentric forms of this curious phenomenon, it has often been compared to the column of a great army scouring along the plain, sometimes hurrying on to the charge, and at others wheeling into line. Frequently after their first formation, they bur.st with an explosion like that of cannon, or the distant thunder. They are sometimes of a deep black, and at others assume the hues of the rainbow; and when invested with the sun's rays, they appear studded with innumerable brilliant stars. It has repeatedly happened that whole tribes, and numerous caravans have been buried under the red and agitated sand, which pos- sesses all the undulating fury of the sea, when roused by the tempest. This was the case in 1805, when several thousand men and animals 144 OASIS OF THE DESERT. were totally destroyed between Fez and Mecca. It has repeatedly occurred, that ovit of several iiundred travellers, who unite for mutual support to cross the desert, not one is able to escape ; and their whi- tened bones remain strewed about the sand, striking terror into those who come after, and are threatened with a similar fate. Immense solitudini d'arena, Le quai, come austro suol le onde marine, ■'- '-■'■ ■• ■ Mesce il turbo spirante, onde a gran pena Ritrova il pellegren riparo e scampo Nelle tempeste dell' instab il campo I The weary pilgrims who are destined to traverse these vast soli- tudes, are obliged to tind a passage over sands that constantly yield under the feet; which, in addition to its other horrors, renders it infinitely more irksome than any other species of travelling. Where nothing is seen but one boundless field of sand, without a single tree, or the smallest appearance of verdure, not even a cave to shelter in from the burning luminary ; the traveller, like those who under- take a voyage on the ocean, looks forward to the sight of land, with the same trembling anxiety : it is therefore easy to conceive with what joy and consolation, a place of comfort and repose is discovered in these dreary wastes. Fortunately, such places exist, and are found in the desert : to these the exhausted caravans have recourse, and put in for refreshment, as a navigator does when worn out with the liard- .ships of his vojage. The people of Aiiica call these spots " the islands of the sandy sea, or of verdure :" another appellation, that of Ouah, meaning a habitation in the desert, is given to them by the wandering Arabs ; while the European epithet Oasis, according to the learned M. Langlet, is derived from an Arabic word, signifying repose and consolation. A favourite theme with the poets and his- torians of antiquity, they have also been frequently alluded to by the moderns, who have represented them in all the fascinations of enchant- ment, on which are found fairy palaces decorated with a thousand brilliant illusions and flowered grottos, whence, in the silence of night, are heard to proceed sounds of celestial harmony. THE FLOWEKY ISLAND. I4Ó It appears, that the anoienls only knew two of these interesting spots, tlie Great and Little Oasis; theThebaid, which is still traversed by the Abyssinian merchants on their return from Cairo, and the smaller one of an oval form, the j)resent kingdom of Fezzan and Darfiir. The first of these, which is said to be two hundred miles in length, and whose capital is Murzouk, is probably the ancient Gara- mantes, which a passage of Virgil places at the extieinity of the earth. There are many others besides the above scattered about in various parts of the great desert : and their number has led some authors to compare Africa to a leopard's .skin. In the Algerine terri- tory, and within its little Desert of Angad, there is a small one, so remarkable for the luxuriancy of its verdure, and richness of vegetation, that the Moors call it Quesiret el sui>; or the tlowery island ; and the poets of this country have often celebrated it under the name of the beautiful garden of roses. Upon one of the above spots, is supposed to have been discovered the ruins of the Tem|)le of Amnion. The approach to this celebrated place, was in ancient times attended with innumerable perils, as proved by the failure of repeated attempts to penetrate as far as the temj)le ; particularly the case of Camby.ses, whose army was entirely destroyed in crossing the desert. Quintus Curtius relates all the horrors to which the Macedonian warrior and his army were exposed in their visit to this wonderful spot. Entering the desert, they continued their march over that solitary waste for several days, oppressed with heat, thirst, and hunger; when all of a .sudden the renowned site of the temple burst upon their longing eyes. >Vhat surprize and consolation must not the Grecian soldiery have found in the.se naked .solitudes? Forests impenetrable to the rays of the sun, rivulets of the purest water, and a delightful temperature that enabled the fortunate inhabit- ants to gather, throughout the year, all the tlowers of spring and fruits of autumn ! The people of this singular region were called Annnonians, and lived in cottages, which were scattered about in varioiis parts of the Oasis, inider the cooling shade of its orange and citron groves. u 146 THE TEMPLE OF AMMON. Amongst its other objects of admiration, two of the most dis- tinguished was the temple, and palace of the kings : there was also another sacred dwelling, appropriated for the virgins and children who officiated in the various ceremonies of the shrine. The Fountain of the Sun, whose water was tepid in the morning, cold at mid-day, hot towards the evening, and boiling at mid-night ; had its source in a wood, which was also dedicated to the divinity. The statue before which adorations were performed, was composed of emeralds and other precious stones, and had the form of a goat : whenever the oracle was consulted ; and in order to render the god moie favourable, this sacred emblem, placed in a golden boat, was carried in procession, at which the matrons and virgins attended, chaunting a hymn of praise and supplication. Although the Temple of Ammon has ceased to be an oracle, there is little doubt of the spot on which it stood, containing the most precious remains of Egyptian antiquity in the world ; which, if any means existed of pursuing researches, would very probably throw consider- able light on the great question of decyphering the hieroglyphics, a?* well as the other branches of knowledge which distinguished that extraordinary people above the rest of the ancient world. It is known that they received preceptors from Ammon, who taught those mys- terious doctrines which contributed so much to the veneration and celebrity of the priests of Memphis in after times.* * Although Mr. Murray, the ingenious editor of Dr. Leyden's excellent compilation, seems satisfied that the ruins of this celebrated spot were discovered both by Horneman and Browne, it is extremely difficult to reconcile the slender vestiges seen by these tra- vellers, with the splendid descriptions handed down by ancient authors : the reader is, however, left to judge for himself on the passage relating to this subject, which is as follows : — " Siwah is particularly remarkable for a monument of antiquity, situated a few miles to the westward. This, which by the natives is called Ummebeda, consists of & large mass of ruins in such a state of dilapidation, as to make it difficult to discover the original purpose for wliich the structure was destined. There are evident remains of an exterior wall of great strength, and about three hundred yards in circumference. In the centre are found the ruins of what appears to have been the principal edifice. It is about MR. IJROWNE. 147 In an age so distilli» uislied for enquiry and research as the present, it is to be hoped tliat no obstacles, however multiplied or formidable, will impede the laudable eflbrts already begun for the purj)Ose of exploring unknown regions; amongst which, Africa is certainly tar from being the least interesting. It must be matter of deep regret to the community at large, that Mr. Browne, who.se per- severance and contempt of danger, seem to have peculiarly titted him for so arduous a pursuit, did not experience a better reception at Darfùr. If properly supported by the sultan of that barbarous country, there is little doubt but that the great question would have been long since decided : as it is, this enterprizing traveller's exertions, while they prove the possibility of penetrating into Africa through Lybia, justly place him in the envied rank of Park, Horneman, Leydiard, and many others, who merit the applau.ses of posterity, for their highly meritorious labours to enlarge the sphere of human know- ledge, and make us acquainted with countries of which the public twenty-seven feet in height, twenty-four in width, and ten or twelve paces in length. The walls are six feet thick, and constructed, particularly in the roof, of very large blocks of stone, cemented with small stones and lime. The interior of the walls is decorated with hieroglyphics, and appear to have been partly painted. From the whole description, compared with that of Browne, and with the ancient writers, there seems very little doubt that this is the celebrated shrine of .Jupiter Amnion, the object of unbounded veneration in the ancient vvorld. The vicinity of the fertile Oasis of Siwah, and the catacombs found in the neighbouring mountains, strongly tend to support this opinion." — Discoveries and Travels in Africa, Vol. I. p. 422. That Mr. Browne, whose caution iu not deciding too hastily on doubtful subjects, cannot be sufficiently admired, believed there is yet much to excite the curiosity of travellers iu this part of Africa, is evident from the following passage extracted from the second chapter of his Travels. — " Since the above was written, it has been communicated to me, that Siwa is the Sirossum mentioned by Ptolemy ; and that the building described was probably coeval with the Temple of Jupiter Ammon, and a dependency thereon. The discovery of that celebrated fane, therefore, yet remains to reward the toil of the adventurous, or to baffle the research of the inquisitive. It may still survive the lapse of ages, yet remain unknown to the Arabs, who traverse the wide expanse of the desert ; but such a circumstance is scarcely probable: it may be completely overwhelmed in the sand, but this is hardly within the compass of belief." — Ed. u 2 148 COMFORTS EVEN IN THE DESERT. must ever remain ignorant without such men ; who are unquestionably amongst the small number of persons entitled to be considered as the real benefactors of mankind. However terrilfic and repulsive crossing the sands of Africa may appear by the foregoing observations, the often repeated aphorism, that every situation, no matter how wretched, has its advantages, applies with equal propriety to those who accompany tlie caravans. " A flower is encountered on the desert, and water rushes from the rock." After the hours of a painful march, with what eyes a verdant pathway or majestic palm-tree, is regarded by the worn out pilgrim! With what transport does he approach a fountain, or collect the wished for drops from Heaven ! How gratifying amidst the bare and sterile waste, to behold the camels loaded with refreshing fruits and salutary nutriment, coming to meet the famished wanderers ! At night, how delightful to hear the bleating of lambs, and barking of the shepherd's dog; to discover the perpendicular columns of smoke, indicating that an Arab camp, or tent of a hospitable Bedouin is near at hand ! How far beyond all other pleasures, is that of arriving at an oasis! The travellers imited together inspire mutual courage, and regulating their pace with that of the camels, they animate each other with the hopes of a safe arrival and happy leturn. The Arab who guides, never fails at each halt, to call the faithful together, and divide the contents of his pannier. After several hours of weary marching, you arrive in the cooling airs of the evening, to enjoy the balmy freshness of a lucid firmament ; where the night is ushered in with innumerable stars, and the great Author of nature surprizes you with all the splendor of creation. Arriving at the Bedouin's tent, you are welcomed with the hospitality of the Patriarchs : consumed by heat and thirst, exhausted by weariness and fatigue; after traversing a sand, blown about and discomposed by the winds, without finding a place of refreshment or repose ; all of a sudden cultivated grounds are discovered, where the travellers are enabled to rest : it can only be compared to returning life. Milk, dates, and honey, are soon supplied RANGK OF MorXTAIXS. 149 in abundance; coffee is prepared. All this, amidst the privations and poverty of the desert, must be a wonderful scene of luxury and pleasure. There are several moiuitainous tracts in Africa : the principal ones consist of the Mountains of the Moon, and Ltipato, south of Tond)uctoo, the Troglodite, Greater and Lesser Atlas, Ike. These are supposed by some naturalists to form almost a continued chain, corresponding in some degree with the iiack bone of the world, in the opposite continents of North and South America. As to the Greater Atlas, which belongs more immediately to my present subject, it is the natural boundary between Barbary and the Great Desert ; its highest points being situated in Morocco towards the Atlantic, and nearly in a line with the Peak of Tenerifte; while the lesser Atlas extends along the Mediterranean coasts, terminating in the vicinity of Tangiers. Between this proud chain, which rises in progressive majesty, there are numerous intermediate mountains, whose vallies are watered by innvunerable streams, and like those of the Pyrenees, give a surprizing luxury of vegetation to this part of Afiica; while the gradual melting of the snows, descending in a nor- thern direction, ensures the almost unequalled fertility of Tunis and Algiers.* The Atlas mountains do not appear so lofty to the eye as they really are, in consequence of not ascending into sharp points, but gradually rising one above another in gentle undulation. The natural quality of these mountains is calcareous, while the more dense material is formed of granite. The western flank rises abruptly, in arid and black masses, from an extensive plain of sand; but the nortiiern decli- vity is not only gradual, but ornamented with forests and pasture. * The geological observations contained in Keatinge's Travels, add very much to tha value of his work in other respects. Of the above celebrated range, he observes — " The country in the latitude of Fez, westward to the coast, judging by the meandering of the rivers, is nearly a water-level to the foot of Mount Atlas ; one of whose limbs is pro- truded to the Straits, while his main body follows nearly the outline of the Mediterranean coast, to his utmost termination at the falls of the Nile." Vol. 11. p. 49. — Ed. 150 CONTEMPLATIONS. Amongst various other trees produced on the summits of the Atlas, the oak grows to an amazing height ; while its shady branches are said to shelter a very rich species of sage, spikenard, and several other rare aromatic plants ; the cliffs are embellished by the cactus, aloe, and Atlas pistacchio. The pyramidical cypress also abounds ; together with a smaller bush producing a delicious berry not unlike the strawberry of Europe. In viewing this tine range of hills, it is gratifying to contem- plate an object of so much veneration with the ancients, and which has given its name to that boundless region covered by the great Atlantic. Ascending their summits, the traveller would call to mind the poetic illustration of these celebrated mountains, which represents the metamorphosis of Atlas into stone, his robust arms transformed into so many lofty pinnacles, while a forest of pine covered his front : constantly encircled with clouds, and beaten by tempests, his shoulders are clothed with a mantle of snow, and rapid torrents issue from his hoary beard, leaving on his back Olympus and the stars. It has been truly observed by Rousseau, that in proportion as we elevate oui-selves above the habitations of men, so do the viler passions of our nature remain Iielow ; approaching the ethereal regions we imper- ceptibly contract some portion of their unalterable purity. The voice of Nature is heard with most sublimity in the dashing roar of the cata- ract, and amidst the gloomy horrors of the precipice. Prsesentiorem et conspicimus Deum Per invias rupes, fera per juga, Clivosque praeruptos, Sonantes Inter aquas, nemorumque noctem.* Mountains have ever been the refuge of the patriotic and high- minded sons of liberty. While blind despotism extends his rod of iron on the plains of Asia, the pride of independence has enabled the * This quotation is from the pen of Mr. Gray : the ode from which the extract was made, will be found in Mason's edition of his friend's works. Vol. I. p. 275. It seems to have been written in the Album kept by the fathers at the celebrated Chartreuse between Tyrin and Mila.n.— Ed. rHK GllIUT DKSERT. l5l simple and uneducated inhabitant of the neighbonrini; Alps, to pre- serve his liberty and virtue. The Maiuotes of Epirus, and Montene- grins of Albania, were long enabled to resist the whole power of Tur- key; the generous Armenians waged the magnanimous war of liberty on the mountains of their native country ; and the rugged summits of Snowden and Plinlimmon have been immortalizetl by the unconcpier- able spirit of Owen Glendower, and warlike melody of the bards. It is cheering to turn our regards from the miserable and degraded people of Barbary, and place them on tribes who inhabit the fast- nesses of the Atlas, who live in the midst of plenty, prosperity, and independence. The goddess they worshij), gives more frankness to their manners, and expression to their physiognomy. This liberty is defended with the strength of their arm. and tire of patriotism. Retired on their inaccessible mountains, guards are jilaced and signals esta- blished, by which the enemy are discovered at a distance, aiultherebv time is given for the whole band to take arms and assume the defen- sive : these people entertain but one fear on earth, — that of serving ! When the armies of tyrants appear, and set lire to thevillage, they retreat to the high grounds, and then an early opportunity is taken of rushing down like a torrent on the enemy. Often reduceil to the greatest extremities, they seem to repeat the words of an ancient Scythian nation to a ferocious conqueror: " if the earth fails to supply the means of existence, she will not refuse a sepulchre !" South of the Great Atlas commences the Biledulgerid, terminated by the Sahara, or Great Desert. Experience has amply proved this, as by far the most eligible direction of penetrating into Africa, and opening a communication with Tombuctoo, as well as the interior of Soudan. It was by this track that Suetonius Paul in us proceeded, during the domination of Rome : and it is still constantly frequented by all the nations of Barbary : whereas innumerable tlitficulties have attended every effort to penetrate by the western coast, owing no less to the badness of the climate, arising from its imcultivated state, than the savage nature of the vaiious nations through which a traveller has to 152 FATE OF ROENTGEN. pass ; and who are as yet unaccustomed to the advantages of a regular commercial intercourse with Europeans. With respect to the supe- rior facilities afforded by advancing into Africa on the northern side, it should be considered that the adventurer not only commences his journey under the protection of governments which are connected with the nations of Europe by treaty, but can at all times accompany one of the numerous caravans which proceed annually from Morocco: these, although subject to accidents, generally calculate on arriving at the end of their voyage without any material difficulty. Roent- gen's melancholy fate, the only European who has attempted to penetrate from this quarter, is by no means a proof of its imprac- ticability.* He very imprudently gave himself up to the guidance of a Mahometan, who was a renegade ; and as a less credulous person might have suspected, fell a victim to his treachery. Let us hope, that the success of future attempts will be ensured by greater precautions. It is not too much to assert, that this large portion of the globe, containing at least one hundretl and fifty mil- lions of human beings, is well worthy the attention of civilized society : from the little we already know, it is scarcely necessary to say how much geography and natural history, of every kind, would be improved by the farther encouragement of African disco- veries ; not to mention its still more important results, as accelerat- ing the civilization and perfection of so large a portion of the human species. * For an interesting account of this promising young man's fate, see Keatinge's Embassy to Morocco. In speaking of African discovery, the Colonel very properly says, " policy and commerce cry aloud, and both nature and art should be moved, to accomplish the opening the inhospitable coast of this redundant country. But to none does the appeal so forcibly address itself, as to the nation which leads in commercial enterprize. Africa, indeed, seems now the only part of the globe perfectly free for the introduction of adven- ture and speculation ; and it is likely to continue so quite long enough to reward the trouble and risk. The attempts, however, if any take place in this direction, must be made upon a scale very different in every respect from all hitherto done in this way." — Vide Travels. — Ed. w ■ . INHABITANTS OF BARBAll\ . lòii CHAPTER VIII Different People of Barbary. — Blacks. — Jews. — Christians. — Renegadoes. — Turks. — Chiloulis. — Berberi. — Bedmdn Arabs. — Their Mode of Living. — Male and Female Costume. — Various Superstitious. — Occupations of the Arabs. — Riches. — Marriages. — Characteristic Anecdotes. Having endeavoured to ^ive some idea of the productions, soil, and climate of Barbary, it is now time to describe the diversity of people by which it is inhabited. These, widely differing in name, quality and tigure, are principally composed of Negroes, Turks, Moors, Bedouin Arabs, Chiloulis, Jews, and Christians. Some are indigenous, while others are of foreign origin : of these, many inha- bit the towns and plains surrounding them, while otliers dwell on mountains, or wander irregularly about the desert. Towards the .sea- coast the Moors are white, and of an olive tinge near Mount Atlas. In the cities, such as Algiers, Tunis, and Tripoly, they are born with an excessively fair complexion; this by constant exposure to an ardent sun, becomes naturally of a brownish cast. It is said that there exists in one of the remote vallies near the Atlas, a race of men lineally descended from the Vandals. They are re|)resented as very fair, with the blue eyes and light hair, which distinguished their nor- thern ancestors. Bruce says he took the troidjle of making a perilous excursion to the Mountains of Auress in seaich of these people, previously noticed by Dr. Shaw, and was even fortunate enough to discover them. Although I cannot corroborate the asser- tions on this subject, not having seen any of the tribe alluded to, 1 X 154 DESCRIPTION OF SLAVES. was seriously assured of their existeuce by several Moors during my stay at Algiers. Some pretend that the celebrated Abyssinian traveller has exaggerated his account of these people. But as a professor, who used to surprize his friends by the violence and obsti- nacy with which he endeavoured to support the most absurd hypo- thesis, once observed, " You cannot know the pleasure there is in making others believe, that, in which we have no faith ourselves!"* Nearly all the blacks in this country are in a state of unequivocal slavery. The barbarians are not only pirates on the water, but extend their system of robbing to the land also. AVhile the corsairs scour the sea, parties of licenced banditti are dispatched towards the desert in pursuit of human beings : arriving undiscovered in the peaceful villages at night, they surprize and carry oft' the inoffensive inhal)itants, who are quietly occupied in looking after their flocks and harvest. These depredators are seconded by the descendants of many Moorish families, who fled from Barbary during the reign of the caliphs, and afterwards established themselves in Soudan, and other countries of the interior. There is also a great number of slaves bought from the Shafrees, or Moorish dealers, and the Slatees, native merchants, who bring them in large droves to Vergela in the country of the Meni Mezzaab. Besides those who die on the road from fatigue and ill usage, it is supposed that there are, at least, twelve thousand annually sold in the different regencies. The maich often exceeds a liundred days ; and those who survive, are exposed for sale in the bazaars. It really tills * The following is Dr. Shaw's notice of the above race : " It is remarkable, that the inhabitants of the Mountains of Auress, have a quite different mien and complexion from their neighbours ; for they are so far from being swarthy, that they are fair and ruddy ; and their hair, which, among the other Kahyles, is of a dark colour, is with them of a deep yellow. These circumstances, notwithstanding their being Mahometans, and their speaking only the common language of th(= Kabyles, render it probable that they may be a remnant of the Vandals." Vide Travels, Chap. 111. Bruce's account is to be found in the first yoiume of his travels. — E'l. NEGROES. 155 one with horror to see these wretched cretttures perfectly naked, oppressed with all the bitterness of grief, Ihns reduced to the state of mere beasts of tlie tield. Both men and women are minnteiv examined with no less indelicacy than atrocity, by their inhuman purchasers. Those who come the greatest distance, are most highly valued, as it diminishes the chance of e.scape, an important consideration to tho.se who buy them : those destined to remain in Barbary, are employed in the houses of rich Moors, while the remainder are conducted to the markets of Cairo and Egypt. Several Spanish and Portuguese ships have been taken by the English, for persisting- in this iniquitotis traffic, contrary to the general voice of Europe, and all civilized nations. It has also been reported, that the transports employed to convey the troops under the ferocious Morii lo, were afterwards des- tined to visit the coast of Guinea, for the execrable purpo.se of loading with slaves for the New World. Spain and Portugal is to the poor blacks, like the terrible land of Koom, .south of Tombuctoo; where, after being bought, the unhappy slaves are slaughtered and eaten.* Those negroes whose natural mildness of disposition and good nature, led an English traveller to call them the Hindoos of Africa, merit a very different treatment from their fellow creatures. The travellers who have frequented the desolate banks of the Joliba, at a time when Catirs and strangers experienced the worst reception where Moorish princes governed, were by the negroe tribes in the * Thanks be to God, the cause of religion and humanity has just experienced another signal triumph, in the abolition of this impious traffic by Spain, on consideration of receiving a large sum from England. Although there are people who may disapprove of our paying the deluded cabinet of Madrid, for yielding at last to remonstrances which it could no longer with decency resist ; yet, if there ever was a principle upon \^ hich an overstrained application of public money could be justified, it is surely furnished on the present occasion : and I have no doubt that the majority of the nation will unite in giving full credit to His Majesty's ministers, for this beneficent act of magnanimity and expiation. Upon such sacrifices The gods themselves throw incense I And when the little interests which now agitate the minds of men so violently, have passed X 2 156 CHARACTER OF THE NEGROES. vicinity of that river received as friends anok with hatred and contempt upon the Jewish financiers, while they secretly envy their riches. Such, however, is the fate of the tax-gatherer and monopolist in every country. Tlie moral and political condition of this people, is a singular phenomenon in the history of human nature: they are a nation whose origin is traceil to the first ages of the world, and who seem destined to continue till its close ; a peoj)le whom (iod selected for his own, and led out of Egypt by his hand, filling with inspiration tlie writers of their history ; a nation which regarded the Divinity as its king, his laws as their rule, and themselves as his patrimony; that is scattered all over the globe without a country, and which, in the midst of persecution and exile, preserves its faith untainted; a people, in fine, whose singular customs, and unshaken national character merit no less the attention of the philosopher than the statesman. How curious to reflect on this strange destiny of the sons of Jacob ! Warriors and concpierors under the intrepid David, that man after God's own heart, full of power and of glory ; and governed by Solo- mon, filling the eastern world with lessons of wisdom, while Judea reposed in peace with all mankind. What diversity of suffering did they not subsequently experience until the destruction of the temple, whether they remained faithful to Darius, after the victory at Arbela, or sorrowfully >\ andered over the plains of Nineveh : chained behind the Roman chariot ornamenting the triumph of Nero and Vespasian, or when afterwards massacred for the rebellion of Barcochebas and of Zabafer Levi. Even in the utmost excesses of misfortune, they do not cease to be a nation, to sigh after the banks of Jonlan, and the dulcet sounds of Solima's harp ! To them, an attachment to the dogma of their forefathers is the first of virtues. They were the architects of the colos.sal pyramids of Egypt, and of the Roman amphitheatres. ICO SECTS AxMONG THE JEWS. And thus, while in the lap of misery, have they participated in the greatest designs. The race of Abraham has never despaired of the divine justice : inflexible in adversity, tliey steadily direct their eyes towards that Omnipotent God, who has performed so many prodigies for theni, and foretold, — the time ivill come, the ivork shall be accomplished ! There are, at present, three difttrent sects among the Jews : the Karaiti, who only recognize the law of Moses in its literal sense ; the Samaritans, a kind of schismatics, who are confined to some parts of Palestine ; and the Rabbinists, who unite the Mosaic law to the interpretations contained in the Talmud, and in the oral traditions. Various other branches of Jewish sectarians are no longer recognized amongst them ; such as the Saduoeens, a species of materialists ; the Essenists, whose doctrines had some resemblance to those of the Stoics, while their manners were not unlike the Quakers, and Moravian brothers; the Therapenti, who seemed to have been models to the Anchorites ; and the Rhodians, which was rather a political than relieious sect. The Talmud is a collection of maxims and precepts exclusively compiled lor the edification of Jews, amongst whom its authority is very great ; it being in some degree their canonical and civil code. This book contains many traits of a pure and sublime morality, toge- ther with luimerous absurdities. The following, for instance, is no less ridicidous than amusing : the Messiah, it says, is to give to his people assembled in the land of Canaan, a grand entertainment : at this will be served the precise wine used at the table of Adam ! and which had been presei^ved by the angels in vast cellars, situated in the centre of the earth. At this feast, is also to be served up a famous little fish, called the Leviathan, which is not less than two or three hundred leagues in length. In the beginning God created the masculine and feminine, of this singular fish ; but as their offspring might have given rise to some inconvenience on earth, God killed the female, which he salted down for the feast of the Messiah. THE TALMUD. 161 The great Beuemoth is also to be slaughtered for the same occasion : this animal is of so monstrous a size, that he daily consumes the hay of a thousand mountains. The feminine was killed for the .same rea.sons as that of the Leviathan, but not salted, becau.se fish is pre- ferable.* With the exception of slaves and a few other individuals, there are no Christians settled at Algiers. The Dey takes care to prevent their increase ; and those who go there for any commercial purpose, cannot remain longer than a stated period, or take a house, and are consequently obliged to lodge at the residence of .some well-known Jew during their continuance in the city. It is said that this rigorous * There are two works which bear this name ; the Talmud of Jerusalem, and that of Babylon. Each of these is composed of two parts : the Mishna, which is the text, and is common to both ; and the Gemerà, or commentary. The Mishna, which comprehends all the laws, institutions, and rules of life, which, besides the ancient Hebrew scriptures, the Jews thought themeelves bound to observe, was composed according to their unanimous testimony, about the close of the second century : it was the work of Rabbi Jehuda Hakkadosh, who was the ornament of the school at Tiberias, and is said to have occupied him forty years. The commentaries and additions made by succeeding Rabbis, were collected by Jochanan Ben Eliezar ; some say in the sixth, and others in the seventh century, under the name of Gemerà, that is, completion, because it completed the Talmud. It cannot certainly be denied, that the history of this extraordinary people is calculated to excite our astonishment in no trifling degree ; yet, I candidly confess, no new discovery in their general character has induced me to change an opinion 1 ventured to give of them in another place : which opinion, founded as it was on the usurious principles and isolated selfishness of the whole tribe, corroborated by ages of experience, could not have been very favourable to the sons of Levi. If, however, any person, whether Jew, Christian, or Turk, has the goodness to inform me in what particular instances they have, as a nation, gone out of the beaten path of monopoly, and insatiable love of gain, for the general benefit of mankind, I shall then be most happy in adding my applause to that of other.s. No liberal mind can approve of the persecutions this sect has met with, in common with every other in the days of barbarism ; which have, 1 trust, gone by for ever. Without attempting to justify that which will not bear an excuse, it has frequently occurred to me, that while religious and political persecution was the order of the day in Europe, the Jews had infinitely less reason to complain than their Christian neighbours. — Ed. V 162 MISERIES OF EUROPEANS. system arises as much from the fanatical zeal of their chief, as from a strong feeling of jealousy on the part of the Moors, on seeing the pre- dilection of their women towards Christians in general. The life which a European leads in this place, is naturally of the most melancholy description. The continual sight of his brethren in chains, is a constant source of suffering, while he is personally exposed to a thousand dangers and unpleasantries, arising from the unsettled state of the government, and probable chance of offending one of the faithful ; which event generally ends in the Nazarene's receiving a good drubbing. It has also happened, that an enthusiastic Marabout, upon some trifling pretence, has peremptorily insisted on a Christian's being circumcised, and assuming the turban ; from which appeal it is extremely diflicult to escape : and if they accidentally come in con- tact with any of their religious processions, there is a very fair chance of suffering the martyrdom of St. Stephen. If one happens to be near the door of a Moor, when leaving his house, jealousy is immediately awakened, and requires very little stimulus to be followed by a coup de poignard. When found in the streets somewhat late at night, you are seized and carried before the Cadi ; met by any of the young Turks, in addition to the pleasing epithet of cornutos and can senza fede, your ears are saluted with a chorus to the following effect: — " The truebelievers with celestial houris lie on beds of roses ; while Jews and Christians are extended on burning coals!" The ladies, too, by the way of not losing the opportunity of a good joke at our expence, on passing along, accompany a very significant look, by placing their fair hands against the forehead, in such a way as not to be mistaken for a pair of horns! If, on the contrary, any of them are induced to view us less unfavourably, and the intrigue be discovered, the fate of Leila awaits the female, while the Christian loses his head.* In alluding to the probability of such an event as the foregoing, it may be proper to observe, that in addition to the perils of meeting * Vide Lord Byron's Giaour. AN INTRIGUE. lO-'i a ooinplaisant Moorisli woman, there is also tliat of being entrapped for the purpose of extortion or assassination. A young- Christian, observing a beautiful woman, attended by an old female slave, fancied that his reganls were not disagreeable, and that he might consequently follow her with impunity. The old Argus coming up, told him to stop, but begged he would contrive to be near the mosque about the same hour next day. He did not fail to attend, and the latly also came ; but instead of the same slave, another had taken her place, whose appearance seemed quite gigantic to the Christian. Soon after, both entered the shop of a Jew, making signs to the young man to follow ; scarcely had he crossed the threshold, when the new attemlant, raising the veil which had hitherto covered the head, disclosed a face not unlike that of Medusa ; and in a stern voice demanded of the petrified Christian, how he dared to follow the woman of a Mussulman Ì Upon this, the poor young man stammered out, by way of explanation, that he meant no harm, and only followed with the honest intention of offering his hand to the lady who had inspired him with the strongest passion. — That cannot be, replied the Moor, as she is my wife ; and I am not disposed to cede her to such a dog of a Christian as you are ; but I am determined to punish you, for having attempted to raise your thoughts to the wife of a Mahometan. Therefore, take the choice of either instantly becoming a Mussulman, or of being put to death ! On this proposition being made, the wretched Christian trembled like a leaf, ignorant how he should act ; when the proprietor of the shop whispered in his ear, that he might get out of the scrape, by giving the Moor all the money he had about him, and signing a paper for the payment of another large sum : to all which the European most joyfully consented, considering himself as extremely happy in having thus got clear at so cheap a rate. The female. Moor, and Jew, who had combined on this occasion to deceive the Christian, had a fine laugh at the result of their successful farce, which appeared likely to have so tragical an end for the disappointed suitor. Y 2 164 RENEGADOES. What kind of a life, therefore, must one lead in a place where there is no person with whom you can change a word in safety ; where you are obliged to give the wall to beasts of burthen ; where women as they pass by, honor you with the sign of Capricorn, and Marabouts insist on your being circumcised J A person travelling through Ger- many, was once met by a large dog, who seemed to approach him with a ferocious howl, as if intending to bite ; by the way of keeping the animal at bay, the traveller stooped down to pick up a stone, but to his great mortification, found them all fixed to the earth by a hard frost, upon which he exclaimed: " Cursed country ! where they bind the stones, and unchain the dogs!" I shall say, evil befal the place where slaves are loaded with chains, and Marabouts are sutiered to be at large ! The number of renegadoes at Algiers is by no means numerous . some Christians, forced to fly from Ceuta for their crimes, rendered desperate by long suffering, or blinded by a passion for some female, have abandoned the religion of Christ for that of Mahomet. Upon this they receive pay like the Turks, and can aspire to all the honors of the state, including that of Dey, as in the case of Mezzo morto .'^ It is not, however, customary for the Moors to encourage pi oselytism amongst the slaves, knowing what a loss they must sustain by the latter 's freedom, and also from an opinion that an apostate, either in politics or religion, cannot be trusted. To prevent the advancement of a renegade to the higher offices, he is interdicted from marrying a Mahometan female : his mistakes or bad conduct, are also punished with the utmost severity, while he is always surrounded by a large cabal, and envious eyes are ever directed towards his ruin. It is related of a Grand Seignor of the Turks, that * So called from his being found half dead on the field of battle : having the com- mand of a shabeque, he ran before the ship of a Christian, upon which the Dey ordered him on pain of death to return to the ocean and re-establish the lost honor of Algiers : this Mezzomorto obeyed, evincing many proofs of intrepidity which advanced him to the chief naval command, and finally led to his becoming Dey. TURKS OF ALGIERS. 160 he wrote to tlie Pope, reconinieinlina^ a French bisliop, for the next canliiial's hat lliat became vacant : and l)y the way of raising him in the holy fatlier's estimation, mentioned that the said bishop had a great desire to turn Mahometan ! It is well known with how much avidity the famous Count Bon- neval was received at Constantinople; and the Emperor of Morocco gave the command of his army to the Duke de llipperda. But things have undergone a wonderful change in this respect; and we may safely assure ourselves, that neither a Christian nor renegade, can now attain to any post of eminence in the states of Barbiiry. All those who embrace the Moorish religion are not thereby ren- dered free: they have merely less fatigue, and enjoy rather more liberty, particularly that of giving themselves up to a greater course of infamy. If a Christian is heard to repeat, " God is merciful, and Mahomet is his prophet;" he is taken before the Cadi, and instantly obliged to embrace the faith of Islamism. The Jew who may be desi- rous of turning Mahometan, must first become a Christian, in order, as the Moors say, to follow the course of different religions, and finally pass through those gradations which lead to perfection. The Turks of Algiers, as observed in a former chapter, are all foreigners, originally sent from Constantinople for the purpose of defending and maintaining this government under the protection and influence of the Grand Seignor. Having, however, once obtained power, this refractory body not only refused to obey, but shortly after assumed a degree of supremacy which has for nearly two centuries been a source of the utmost terror and oppression, both to the natives, and those European powers whose maritime force may have been insufficient to cope with the corsairs. Exercising a much greater share of power than the Pretorian guards of Rome, Mama- lukes of Egypt, or the Tartars in China ; they occupy all the offices of state, and keep the Moors in the cruellest bondage, while their violence has long made Algiers the theatre of revolution and bloodshed. 166 HAUGHTINESS OF THE TURKS. This lawless force is kept up by sending sliips and commissaries to the Levant annually, to procure new recruits, in order to fill up those vacancies occasioned by war, deaths, or punishments. The.se are collected from the very lowest dregs of the people in Smyrna and Constantinople, nor are the vilest malefactors rejected. The Barbary recruits are looked upon with so much contempt, that even the women refuse to accompany them in their new calling. No sooner, however, are they landed in Algiers, and formed into an insolent and domi- nating militia, than a high air of importance is put on ; and giving themselves the title of Eftendis, they possess all the arrogance and pride, which generally belong to the upstart favourites of fortune. Notwithstanding their vanity, they are by no means a.shamed of their base origin : on the contrary, they .seem to feel a peculiar pleasure in publishing from what low degrees they have been enabled to arrive at the highest offices. A Dey while disputing with one of the European consuls, once said: " my father salted tongues at Pera, and my mother sold them in Constantinople; but I never knew a worse tongue than yours !" Although the militiaseldom exceed ten or twelve thousand, they are enabled to keep five millions of people in fear and subjection, by all of whom they are naturally held in the greatest abhorrence, notwith- standing the hard necessity of obeying such monsters. It would appear, however, that they have to deal with a people so degraded by oppression, that they place their chief glory in humbling themselves, esteeming a man in proportion as his slavery is abject. The ass com- plained to Jupiter of being always condemned to labour and the lash. " My friend," replied the god, " how is it possible for me to persuade men that you are not a poltroon ì Besides, you know they are naturally cruel : however, I'll do all I can to alleviate your con- dition : you shall be rendered in.sensible!" Tacitus with a profound knowledge of human nature, has observed, that the first person who dared to become a tyrant, found slavish hearts ready to obey him; THK UKREUEaS. Ì67 and that voluntarv servitude makes more tyrants, than the latter do shives. The distrustful policy of the Altjerine ifovernment takes all possible care to prevent too dose a union between the Turkish sol- diery and Moorish population, so as to render them at once the instruments and accomplices of its tyranny; consequently intermar- riage with the Moorish women is not encouraged. It was not long since that a rich Moor, Sydi Cador, lost his head, for having given his daughter in marriage to an aga. Tint the empire of love is the most powerful of all, so that many Turks influenced by the ardour of passion, unite themselves to natives, and they are generally preferred by the parents, who are thus enabled to anticipate support in the hour of revolution. Weakness looks to power for protection, and beauty likes to become the reward of valour. The children who spring from these marriages may in some measure be compared to the Creoles of the West Indies ; and are called CInloulis. At Tunis they become soldiers, and receive pay almost as soon as they are able to walk ; but in Algiers they are not enrolled until a more advanced age. Viewed with great jealousy by the Turks, the Chiloulis seldom rise to situations of trust or dignity. Many are employed as accoun- tants and agents in mercantile houses, in which situation their intel- ligence and fidelity have become almost proverbial. Although par- taking of Turk and Moor, they are decidedly most attached to the latter. Numerous, strong, and united, many think that in the future revolutions of this place, a Chilouli will reign as Petion, or Chris- tophe, at St. Domingo. The Berberi, or Berrebres, are the indigenous people of Barbary, to which they have given this name. They are the descendants of the Carthaginians, Getuli, and Lybians; mixed with the Saracen invaders who entered Africa, under the inhuman Kaled el Valid, surnamed the Sword of God. They inhabit the whole chain of the Atlas, near the Isthmus of Suez, and are the same race as the Bere- 168 CHARACTER OF THE BEREBERS. bras, a people of Upper Efi^ypt, as also the Guanches of the Canary Islands, speaking nearly the same language. They are of a very athletic form: and extremely brave, and are also remarkable for fine teeth and eyes, the pupils of which are generally of a bright brown, not unlike the gloss of antique bronze. Neither fat, nor very fleshy, they are chiefly formed of nerve and muscle. Although wrinkled in early life, their vigorous and active habits keep off" the feeling of old age, which is only discovered by the whiteness of their beard and hair : they never speak of it, or seem to know of such an evil ; and whenever at the age of seventy, it happens that they are unable scru- pulously to perform all the oflices of the sabbath, as enjoined by the Koran, they do not accuse weight of years, but incantation and sorcery. Their dress is composed of a shirt without sleeves, and short pantaloons ; the head is shaved in front, leaving the hair behind ; they do not let their beard grow, having merely a little tuft on the chin and mustachios. They inhabit small cabins on the highest mountains, and some find shelter in caves, like the ancient Troglodites. Their houses are built of stone, or wood, and sur- rounded by a wall, which is pierced with loop-holes, for defence all round. Proud and audacious, they are implacable in their hatred.* They are excellent swimmers, and delight in the chace. Passionately fond of their musket, they frequently expend seventy or eighty dollars to ornament it with ivory and silver. They generally hang the paw of a lion, or other ferocious beast of prey round their children's necks to inspire force and courage, and the young brides present their husbands with simular amulets. Their fields are well cultivated. Warmly attached to their native mountains, they preferitile higher grounds, and very rarely change their place of abode. The most numerous tribe of the Berberi, known by the name of * This part of the Arab's character is fully illustrated in a curious anecdote, p. 77, of Tally's Residence in Tripoly, one of the most interesting and amusing works extant on Karbary.— />/. THE BEDOUIN ARABS. IC.O Scintila, are found in Morocco. In Algiers tliey are called Kabiles. or Cubail ; those who inhabit the Sahara, are styled Towarichs. The Cubail are the poorest and most filthy. They regard foreigners and travellers of every kind, with great jealousy : it is on this account necessary to make them believe you are looking for medicinal herbs ; for, like all .savage nations, they cannot conceive that any one travels for instruction or amusement. The Kabiles of Algiers, are by far the most discontented and rebellious of all Barbary. The Turks watch them with the utmost jealousy and suspicion, often retaining the sons of their chiefs, as hostages for the good conduct and fidelity of the parents. I saw two of these at Algiers in chains, and treated with as much severity as the Christian slaves. The Berberi obey foreign domination with disdain, while their hatred foments with the ardent heat of a burning sun. It is scarcely necessary to inform the reader, that the Bedouin tribes form a very considerable portion of the whole population of Barbary. Their name is derived from Beddui, an inhabitant of the desert, extending from the sandy plains of Persia to Morocco. These people have preserved their pristine simplicity of manners and customs, with singular constancy ; and still continue strongly attached to the pastoral life, so well adapted to their rich vallies, wann sun, and serene climate. Their language is the Arabic; which they pretend to speak in its greatest purity. There is no nation on earth, that has adhered so closely to ancient manners, and their primitive mode of living, as the Ai-abs : religion excepted, they are precisely what they were in the days of Job. A traveller arriving amongst them, is no less surprised than delighted, to find their dress, manners, and usages, exactly as he had seen them described in history, and repre- sented on canvass : not to mention their perfect conformity to the accounts transmitted by Pliny, Strabo, Leo Africanus, and Pomponius Mela: so that amongst the Arabs, a modern traveller may fancy himself in the midst of the people of antiquity. Those tiibes nearest Algiers, were soon brought into subjection, z 170 THE BEDOl'lN ARABS. and its consequent corru[)tion ; but the more remote ones still remain free, retaining all the pride of liberty. Some of these Bedouins are frequently seen at the capital, half naked, and armed with bows and arrows, mounted on tiery chargers. They are generally distinguished by a fine foi'm and generous nature : they boast of having descended from the patriarchs, and are excessively vain of their freedom. Pas- sionately fond of the open country and free air of their native plains, they cannot conceive how others dwell in the mephitic atmosphere of cities. Although extremely well made, they are by no means hand- some in features. Like the Mulattoes, their complexion is olive coloured, but more inclined to brown. They are also meagre, and very much parched by the sun : their eyes and teeth are equally tine as those of the Berrebres ; while the exquisiteness of their senses is proverbial. By a simple inspection of the soil, a Bedouin will know the exact spot where water can be found, however deep in the surface; and he hears its murmvnings at an amazing distance, while his sense of smelling enables him to trace the road his camel has recently passed over. In fact, there is, in the general character of this race, a mixture of strength and generosity which always attracts the attention of strangers. It is not a single feature that is to be considered : we should judge of the entire physiognomy. The Bedouin is also temperate, laborious, and tolerant ; being, in cases of emergency, capable of abstaining from any kind of food for two or three days :* all which most happily adapts him to the wandering life he leads in the desert. He is not choleric or litigious, like the Moor ; and when engaged in any dispute, he is not only very noisy, but often draws his cangiar, or dagger ; but scarcely ever * A celebrated French traveller, in speaking of this singular race, observes, " It will appear almost incredible to us, but it is an undoubted fact, that the quantity of food usually consumed by the greatest part of them, does not exceed six ounces a day. Six or seven dates soaked in melted butter, a little sweet milk or curds, serves a man a whole day ; and he esteems himself happy when he can add a small quantity of coarse flour or a little ball of rice!"— £rf. THEIR EDUCATION AND COSTUME. 171 uses it; audit", durinn' tlu- most violent ((Uiirrel, his opponent repeats, " Think, of God and the prophet," tlie weapon is instantly put up, and peaee restored. Their vengeance is terrible and Ioni;- cherished: as in Corsica, if one of an Arab family is murdered, the most dis- tinguished member in that of the assassin's must perish, should the perpetrator remain undiscovered. But these resentments arise from a keen sense of honor, and as they believe, just retaliation. With an external appearance of severity and harshness, the Arab possesses a large share of urbanity, mid goo«liiess of heart. Trees should not be estimated by the ruggedness of their bark, but by the sweetness of the fruit and beauty of their tlo\\ ers. The education given to their youth is above all others calculated to produce muscular strength, and an agility peculiarly requisite for the fatiguing kind of life to which they are destined. Without absolutely thwarting their natural inclinations, parents never submit to the ca[)rices of their otl'spring. This has the etTect of deve- loping the faculties at a very early age ; and as he is completely unintluenced by the terrors of a parental brow, the Arab youth generally delivers his sentiments with firmness and coinage. He must speak sensibly, if he wishes to ensure a reply. Treated, in fact, like a man, he acquires the ambition of deserving it. The costume of the Bedouins is extremely picturesque : their hair is very short, and the head sometimes enveloped with a linen band; turbans are not worn, and but tew make use of caps or sandals. The principal covering consists of a cloth five or six feet wide, and nine in length, called an el haik : this is a species of white woollen cloth, bearing some resemblance to the Merino manufacture. Although the haik gives both grace and majesty to the wearer, it must from constant falling ofi" the shoulder and interruption in walking, be very inconve- nient, though custom most probably removes the difficulty with the Arabs. There is, however, a considerable degree of elegance in the mode of replacing the haik whenever it becomes deranged : the fre- quency of this circumstance rentiers a band necessary : hence the scriptural phrase " to have the loins girt." The finer kind of haik z 2 172 THE BEDOUIX ARAUS. are those which the ancients called peplus, which Euripides styled vestures that trailed alone:, and Eschylus cloak descending down to the feet. It was also no doubt the toga of Rome, as it bears the strongest resemblance to many of the draperies seen on the statues of senators, and other citizens of the empire. The Bedouins have besides an outer mantle, called bernousse : this is composed of one entire piece, narrow at the neck, and having a hood to cover the head. This cloak is like the pallium of the Romans ; and when the hood is over, may be compared to the cardocucullus of the Gkiuls. Some wear a covering under the haik, not unlike the Roman tunic. The men tie the haik with a cord, which is fastened in the form of a turban; while the women attach it together by a .silver clasp. Nearly all the Bedouins go barefooted, except in riding, when large boots are worn. The lower classes generally go with their heads uncovered; but the rich wear a small scarlet cap, on which is a species of turban, the order and number of whose folds, as in China, denotes the rank of the wearer, and whether he is a military man or merchant. This cap seems to be the tiara of the ancients, and, in fact, many of their coins bear one exactly like it. The bands are of wool, and worked with a good deal of taste, representing various figures and emblems : they are sufficiently long to go round the waist several times, and answer to the zone of the Greeks. On going out, the bernousse is thrown carelessly over the shoulder : should it rain they take it otF, and it is not put on again until the shower is over. The sheich is another cloak worn by the Bedouins, which reaches down below the knees, and has a much finer hood than the bernousse. The Arab always carries a cangiar, and when travelling is furnished with a sword, which is suspended from the left shoulder ; also a musket, with which he scarcely ever mi.sses his mark. Notwithstanding the laws of Algiers prohibit any persons but the Turkish soldiery from bearing arms, the wandering Bedouin treats them with silent disdain ; and like his Saracen ances- tors never fails to carry the means of redress about him. The dress of the Arab females is also composed of a haik, under URliSS OV Tirii FEMALES. 173 which a chemise and pantaloons are worn : the upper part of the haik is converted into a species of sack, for the purpose of carrying tlieir youngest ack, and terminating by the appearance of a lock of hair, has a particularly graceful eflfect. It is customarj^^ for the Arab women to wear their hair excessively long, sometimes reaching to the ground; and those, whom nature has not blest with this mark of beauty, obtain false locks, which being put into the finest kind of silk net, is agitated in playful undulation over the shoulders. They are extremely fond of coral and pearls : in the absence of these, various ornaments, composed of shells and teeth of fish, are substituted on the neck, ancles, and wrists. Tatooing is also practised, though not to a very great extent. One of the most highly esteemed graces of the Arab female, is that of ting- ing the eyebrows and lids with black lead pulverized : this is still farther enhanced by drawing several circles round the eye with the same material : a cu.stom which is, I believe, peculiar to all the savage tribes of the East, who make use of the famous «wme^. The circum- stance of being on a journey, or occupied in the labours of the field, never prevents the women from wearing their richest ornaments; arising either from their not knowing the use of cabinets and cases, or perhaps from vanity; which, even in their solitary mode of life, seems to be a quality inherent in their nature. An Arab beauty is thus described by Hariri and Montannabi, two of their celebrated poets : " Her person ought to be slender, like the bending rush, or long lance of Yemen ; with Hanks of such magnitude that they can scarcely pass the entrance of the tent ; two pomegranates rising on a bosom of alabaster ; eyes, piercing and languid like those of the gazelle ; arched eyebrows, hair black and curling, waving over a neck, as long as the camel's I" Some of the Bedouin women are as expert in managing the barb as the men ; and whenever they find it necessary 174 CULINARY DISCOVERY. to address the Dey, they display a degree of quickness, courage, and eloquence, which is really surprising. The Bedouins eat a great quantity of bread at their meals; and would be in a sad plight were they set down at a table in London or Amsterdam, where one can hardly distinguish the morsel which is put near his plate. In the cities of Barbary, there are regular bakers who prepare the bread in ovens ; but amongst the Arabs, no leaven is iLsed. " Ye shall eat nothing leavened ; in all your habitations shall ye eat unleavened bread." — Exod. c. xii. ; the flour being simply mixed with water, and when made into cakes, are either roasted on the tire or put into a pan, called tayen, which is exactly similar both as to use and fonn to the tagenon of the Greeks and Jews. And as in Leviticus, that which is baked in the tagenon, is called after it ; so, amongst the Arabs, the bread is called tayen, from the vessel in which it is prepared. The paste composed of ground wheat or rice, which they fry in the tayen, is what we call donzelle, in Tuscany.* But as we sometimes remain for ages, without arriving at a discovery which touches immediately on one already made, the Bedouins were, on my arrival at Algiers, ignorant of the mode in which we mix the flour and make it unite, so as to fry it with oil. This in the Florentine territory is called migliacciuole. It was, therefore, reserved for me to cross the sea from a distant land, and disseminate a new discovery in Africa ! Its communication was received with the utmost gratitude ; so much so, that I almost expected to be waited on by a deputation of the tribes to return thanks, having heard that my name had been even inscribed as a general benefactor on several palm trees. From it, also, the savory dish was christened, panantelle ; for which I shall, no doubt, be rendered famous in Africa, for having given my name to a palatable cake. Mine will, perhaps, on some future day, bear an humble comparison with that of my distinguished countryman, who * The Italian tourist will, no doubt, be reminded of the immense pan containing this favourite preparation, which is sold in all the towns of Italy ; more particularly at Rome, Florence, and Genoa. — Ed. SUPERSTITIONS. 175 gave his to the American continent. The benefits we render our fellow creatures, are amply repaid by their gratitude. The incense nourishes the flame which diffuses it around, while the latter senses to develope the odoriferous perfume. The custom of eating together, like the heroes of Homer, and people of Caledonia, in the days of Ossian and Fingal, is amongst the Arabs an inviolable guarantee of fidelity in keeping their word, and acting up to promised fiiendship. When two chiefs meet, the bows are bent, and attaghans drawn : this is followed by one of each tribe .stepping forward ; they seat themselves : a bowl is then filled with coffee or milk ; they drink together ; and this .simple ceremony ended, the tribes are united in the closest bonds of friendship. If you .sit do\Mi with an Arab, eat bread and salt with him, and receive a verbal pledge of security ; you may, without further apprehension, go through the whole country of his tribe.* The Bedouins are Mahometans, and like the whole of that terri- ble sect filled with innumerable superstitions of the most extravagant description : they are loaded with charms and amulets, to prevent the influence of masic and enchantment ; thev have their climacteric num- ber, which is five, and considered as paiticularly ominous. " Five in yourejes," is one of the greatest imprecations: another, not less elfi- cacious in their opinion, is performed by drawing the hand over the eyes, and pronouncing the word capsa. On sitting down to eat, however, or at the commencement of any undertaking, they repeat Bismillah, " in the name of God;" and when the meal is at an end, Allamandillah, " God be praised." On saluting each other, they raise their hand to the heart, .saying, Saliim aleikum, "peace be with thee:" this is answered by Ailikum essutum, " peace be also Avith you." To those of another persuasion, ihey \\\eve\y ^diy , SebulechaimmiàSahheb salamet, "friend, how art thou J" The usual posture assumed when .saluting, is that of * A curious illustration of this fact will be found in TuUy's Tripoli, Pages 7», and ^O.—Ed. 176 OCCUPATIONS OF THE ARABS. placing the right hand on the breast; and this is a gesture of uncommon dignity. Amongst very intimate friends and equals, they reciprocally kiss the forehead and shoulders. The lower classes of society salute the knees of their superiors as a mark of respect. Whenever they meet in the desert, they shake hands five or six times, each kissing his own as often as it has been presented to his friend ; who then attempts to repeat the same ceremony with the others ; but this sign of submission is rejected, until both parties begin to get tired of saluta- tion, which is annoying even in the desert : the oldest suffers the other to kiss his fingers. The better educated generally salute each other's cheek. During Bairam and other solemn feasts, wives, by the way of paying a high compliment to husbands, kiss their hands. The .sole occupation of the Arabs is confined to the care of their flocks, horses, the chace, and war. When called to the field, the wives, children, and herds follow, in order that the sight of such endearing objects may excite them to acts of heroism and valour. If they betray any symptoms of fear, and are vanquished, they are reproved by their wives in the manner of the Spartan heroines. They have very few laws, and can do without them, while their wants continue so limited : presei^ving the same .simplicity of manners, they pursue the unifonn tenor of their past life. Like the Samoides, who when called upon by the Autocrat of all the Russias, to assist in compiling an universal code for the empire, answered, that they did not seek for laws ; and prayed his imperial majesty to give them to some of their neighbours who might be more in want of legislative regulations. Every one recollects the story of the navigator, who, thrown upon a desert shore, was alarmed lest he should be devoured by beasts of prey, but discovering a gibbet upon which a man had been recently suspended, joyfiilly exclaimed, " thank Heaven ! I am then amongst civilized people I" All the riches of these people consist in their flocks ; besides Mhich, many of the chiefs keep droves of camels for the transport of merchandize. They slaughter very few cattle, being satisfied with MARRIAGES. 177 the wool mid milk. The Avomen superintend the bee-hive, and attend totlie ffiovvth of the silk-worm ; they also weave- stuffs ami linen, on looms arranged for that ptn'pose in the tents: instead of a shuttle, their fingers are used to pa.ss the thread : after the manner of Penelope, Andromache, and the matrons of Rome, their task is conducted with incredible assiduity. Like the daughters of Judea, they go to the distant wells every evening, to fetch water for the camels, and for domestic purposes. They are, however, somewhat less accommodating than Dinah ; for if a stranger addresses them, they instantly let their veil fall, and thus hide every feature, as Rebecca did on the first sight of Isaac* If a stranger happens to be passing on the same road, they sit down with their backs towards him until he is out of .sight. They also grind the com, having small hand grind-stones for that purpose; precisely the machine alluded to by Mo.ses and our Saviour. There is another mill, yet more portable, which is carried with those who take long jouniies. The women make a very good stuff out of camel and goat's hair : the preparation of morocco leather is also an object of female industry. The skins are worked down to the texture of paj)er, and tinged with various colours, serving a great variety of u.seful pur- poses. They make bridles out of one piece : and there are itinerant jewellers, who manufacture rings and other ornaments for both sexes. When a young man wi.shes to marry a Bedouin female, he declares his intention to her father; and if approved, is received with civility : the parent then descants on the merits of his daughter, and fecundity of her mother, which promises the same inestimable quality in the child. When once the father's promise i.s given, he calls upon the suitor for a certain number of cows and oxen, as a sign of gratitude for so meritorious a partner. The intended bridegroom .soon * It is really wonderful to reflect on the undeviating constancy with which the patriar- chal manner.s and customs have been transmitted through so many centuries of darkness and revolution to the present times. So striking is the similitude between all the modes of living adopted by the Bedouins, that the best description we have of them is little more than a repetition of what all have read in the beautiful simplicity of the scriptures. — Ed. A A 178 MARRIAGES. alter oonclutts the required offering with all tlue solemnity before the tent of his future father-in-law ; who then comnuinioates the proposal to his daughter, upon which she graciously prepares to receive her lover. The relatives and friends of the bride are then invited, and the young man being introduced, is asked how much he has given for his wife 't He replies, that a wise antl industrious woman costs nothing. After this, all the young virgins of the neighbourhood place the bride on horseback, and conduct her to the tent of the bridegroom, where she is immediately presented by the husband's friends with a beverage composed of milk and honey, as a syml^ol of the future harmony and sweetness of their union ; >vhile she drinks, the attendant maidens sing an epithalamium. The bride then alights, and taking a stake which is presented to her, she drives it into the earth as far as her strength will allow ; repeating, "like this stake, which will never change its position, without force is employed to draw it up, so will I never abandon my husband, unless it should please him to discard me." This ceremony concluded, she is next shewn the flocks which are destined to be under her future care : these she takes to the adjoining meadows for some time ; and on her return, another bowl of milk is presented, in which is put a small bit of the husband's tent : while she drinks, the company sing verses in piaise of the parties, and finish by imploring the blessing of Heaven on their heads, together with the possession of large flocks and many children. The day being \tast in festivity, the friends retire ; leaving the Viride in the arms of her husband. Contrary to the austere custom of the Moors, the Arab shepherd is allowed to see the object of his aflections some time before marriage ; and this interval he frequently employs in proving, by various delicate attentions, the force of his passion. Besides his nightly visit to the vicinity of her tent, he occasionally salutes her ear with a serenade ; while in the day-time, the language of the eye only serves to fan the flame created by his nocturnal assiduities. It is thus that the young CMAKACTER OF THE ARAB. 179 and ardent Bedonin is enabled to enjoy the first of human gratifica- tions, that oi' selecting a ^voman of his own choice. Inestimable blessing ! rarely met with in more civilized society. A female of great feeling and animation, used to say : " my father wishes to marry me to a man of talent ; my mother, to one who cuts a great figure in the w orld ; and niy uncle to one who is very rich ; but give me the man whom I can love !" With all this happy fi-eedom of choosing a partner, the young Bedouins never marry without their parents' entire approbation : besides, they are more intent on seeking a wife, than on adding to the number of useless admirers. " Why," asks an English writer, " are so few girls married noA\ -a-days J" Because there are more who think of making nets than cages ! The Arab is modest, serious, and scarcely ever laughs : he tells you tliat smiles are only intended by nature to ornament the counte- nance of >A'omen : he speaks with gravity, and not until some moments after the person he may be conversing with, has ceased. He is neither fond of jokes nor scandal: thinking the one proceeds from littleness of mind, and the other a wicked disposition. The joy of the sage is seen and not heard. With all the Arab is neither melancholy, silent, nor sedentary. He is fond of roving, seeing, and conversing. The crowds and activity observable amongst the tribes is almost incredible : yon meet people constantly coming and going, where any tribe is established. There are fairs and markets held through- out the week except on Friday ; and numberless bands of dancers, conjurors, and mountebanks are always in attendance, serving either to amuse the people or impose their medicinal (piackeries on the credidity of the multitude.* If an European visits them, it follows of course that he is a doctor, and possesses saphies for the cure of every disease: these he must immediately set about writing, and when dis- * As the more decorous mode of passing the Sabbath in this country has not produced any sensible effect on our Gallic neighbours, perhaps they may be induced to take a leaf out •>f the Arab's book of morality? — Ed. A A'2 180 ARAB POETS. tribiited to the wondering Arabs, they are instantly suspended round the neck, and must shortly perform miracles on the credulous patient. In the gentle unitormity of the pastoral life, with their serene nights, and tranquil atmosphere, those of a more refined understand- ing amongst the Arabs, study the arts and sciences ; and poetry is not forgotten. A good poet is sure of obtaining every distinction : they sing the battles and tales of love, in heroic and tender strains. The sheiks and even princes do not think themselves degraded by attending their flocks : and while the latter feed, they are employed in composing verses in praise of a country life ; the ti'anc|uillity of pastoral pursuits, and serene days experienced by the patriarchs of old, who were blessed with the approbation and support of Heaven. I heard the lines of a young bard, which seemed to breathe a considerable degree of spirit and expression : they related the prowess of an Arab prince, who had destroyed a tierce giant that had been the terror of his tribe ; he then described the courage and valour of a Bedouin, who struck down a furious lion one night, while going to visit a young female, whose gait was majestic, and eyes more beautiful than those of the gazelle ! A collection of the finest maxims, and choicest compositions, are generally leaVned by heart, and forms a material part in the educa- tion of an Arab : by which poetry is restored to its natural intention and original pnrpose ; that of transmitting historical events, celebrat- ing the actions of the brave, instructing young societie,**, or those who have retained their primitive simplicity. ARAB TRIBES. 181 CHAPTER IX. Account of the Kabiles and Arab Tribes. — The Himas. — Tents. — Dowers. — Encampments. —Dascars, or Arab Villages. — The Sheiks. — The Plunder- ing Arabs. — Anecdotes respecting them. - - The Bedouins are divided into many .scattered tribes, called Kabiles, and vulgarly Nege; l>ut it is necessary to distinguish the wandering Arabs, from those who have a fixed residence. In the deserts of Persia and Syria, most of the land is susceptible of culti- vation, and is besides generally well watered ; but neither of these cases can apply to the arid sjinds of Africa, where verdure is so scarce, that their inhabitants are obliged to go in search of it, like the Calinucks and Tartars. Some tribes, however, remain stationary for several years : while others, frequently change their position, paying a small quit rent for the lands they cultivate, or upon which their flocks are permitted to range. When the families become too numerous, they separate : one party going to the right, and the other to the left, like the progeny of Abraham and Lot.* In journeying from one station to another, three women are carried by each camel, while the cliildren and young lambs are contained in panniers suspended on each side, and the fowls roost on the neck and bvnich. On these occasions the males go on foot, for the purpose of keeping together and directing the flocks, their mu.skets being hung up to the piunmel * This is another very striking coincidence, between the customs ol the Arabs, and their remote ancestors of the East. " Is not the whole land before thee? Separate thyself, I pray thee, from me : if thou wilt take the left hand, then I will go to the right ; or if thou depart to the right hand, then I will go to the left." Genesis, Chap. Xlll. — Ed. 182 ATTEMPT TO UNITE THE TRIBES. of the camel's saddle. It is thus, that an Arab family travels when in search of a new establishment. Some of the tribes are both numerous and powerful, such as the Beni Mezzaab, near the Desert of Angad ; the Psummata, a warlike tribe towards Mount Atlas; the Gamma, inhabiting- the mountains of Couco ; Beni Al)bas, on the great road to Constautina ; and the Bedouins of the Zaab, who are descended from the ancient Melano- getuli. These tribes generally take the names of their original chiefs or founders, merely adding the word Beni. They frequently form different camps, all of which place themselves under the direction of a single emir of their own election : this chief has sometimes as many as three hundred under his orders.* Such associations are rendered necessary to deiend them from the oppression of the Turks : as, to avoid insult, they must possess force, which can alone ensure protec- tion : he who knows how to make himself feared, is generally respected. There was some years ago, an Arab named Abuferez, of great courage and intelligence, who attempted to unite all the Kabiles in the vicinity of Mount Atlas. But, instead of forming a powerful league, like the Iriquois of America, the Persian Afghans, or Rohillas of Hindostan, the African Arabs are only intent on making- war upon each other; and the Turks, who are actively employed in fomenting their quarrels, do not fail to profit by them. AVhen I asked why they did not lorm one general alliance under a single powerful chief, they informed me, it arose from the apprehension of their making a tyrant for themselves ; and that it was infinitely better to suffer temporary vexations, than a state of constant oppression . I am, however, fully of opinion, that the Bedouins under an intrepid and fortunate chief, would become an inde})endent, j)owerfu], and Iiappy people ; as the Drusi and Binnans of the East did, when led on by * " Each camp has its respective sheik, but thechi ef of the tiùbe is entitled E] Kiber, the great sheik." Keatinge, Vol. I. p. 327, where the manners and customs of the Arabs tribes are very ably illustrated. — Ed. MODE OK LIVING. 18-Ì Fac Jardin and Aloinpia : divided aners do not, in fact, say, let us go to invade and conquer, but for the laudable purpose of avenging our injured rights ! c c 2 19(> DESCRIPTION OF THE MOORS. CHAPTER X. Description of the Moors. — Their Figure and Character. — Male and Female Costume. — Head Dress and Toilet. — Habitations. — Particular Manners and Customs. — Marriages amongst the Moors. — Funerals. — Condition of . Widows, ófc. The Moors, who compose a very large proportion of the population of Barbary, are far from being the most amiable : there is something harsh and ominous in their physiognomy, extremely repulsive to an European. The excesses in which they are so apt to indulge, enervates their body, and destroys their courage. That blood which is impoverished by dissoluteness, seldom gives much animation to the possessor : their limbs are rather slender and well-shaped, but they have generally more agility than vigour ; and are better adapted for pedestrian exercise than the labours of agriculture. They have fine eyes, and good teeth ; together with tolerably regular features ; but their countenance is never enlivened by a noble thought, or generous sentiment: it rather expresses the fire of ardent and gloomy passion. In them the eye seldom beams forth that softness and placidity which distinguish a fine soul. A quivering lip, the emblem of di.sdain and falsehoo