^??^5> A A CSO THERr 8 4 J REGIONAL LI ? 1 5 lARY FACILITY 7 ^^i^m-^4^|!*2« ^•»-^- .<.■->■;■ \^0S fOPvK"*« ■m^ -"^x T E A V E L S VARIOUS COUNTRIES SCAl^DIJ^AYIA: INCLUDING DENMARK, SWEDEN, NORAVAY, LAPLAND, AND FINLAND. E. D. CLARKE, LL.D. IN THREE VOLUMES. VOL. III. LONDON: PRINTED FOR T. CADELL AND W. DAVIES. MDCCCXXXVIII. LIST OF EMBELLISHMENTS AND VIGNETTES IN VOLUME THE ELEVENTH. TO SERVE AS DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. CHAP. I. Page Tumuli or Mounds at Gamla Vpsala; said to be the Sepulchres of Odin, Frigga, and Thor; — from a Draw- ing by Dr. Fiott Lee . . . • 1 Fac-Simile of the Codej^ Argenteus, the celebrated MS. of the Four Gospels in the Moeso-Gothic Language and Character; now preserved in the University Library at Upsala 15 Sketch of the Clipped Fir- Trees which form an Avenue to the Greenhouse in the Botanic Garden at Upsala, 34 CHAP. II. Curious Wheel-lock Musket • ... .50 CHAP. III. Specimen o^ Igneous Basalt, from the bottom of a Copper Furnace in Siberia 109 Portrait of Charles XIL from a Cast taken four hours after he was shot .132 EMBELLISHMENTS AND VIGNETTES. CHAP. IV. Perilous Situation of the Author and his Companions, in o the Passage-Boat from Grissehamn to Aland . . . 1 56 o General Chart of the whole Group of the Aland Isles, in the Mouth of the Gulph of Bothnia ; shewing the nature of the Passage from Sweden to Finland; also the Circuitous Route performed by the Author upon the Ice of the Frozen Sea, after returning from the Isle of Kumlinge to the Bomarsund 176 Ruins of Castleholm, in which Eric XIV. was confined, 183 Manner and Difficulty of conveying the Carriage &c. on the Ice, over the Inlets of the Sea 193 CHAP. V. Mode of crossing the Frozen Sea in a small Sledge drawn by one Horse 212 Seal-Hunter on the Frozen Sea 220 CHAP. VI. Extraordinary and interesting Congregation, returning from Divine Service^ in Sledges drawn by Horses . 24'7 CHAP. VIT. Representation of a Sledge, the common Vehicle .for Travelling in Northern Countries of Europe, over the ice or snow : it is usually lined with furs, and drawn by one horse 273 CHAP. VIII. o Finlander of Savolax in the Streets of Abo, with his Sledge 330 Russian with his Sledge, in the streets of Abo . . .331 EMBELLISHMENTS AND VIGNETTES. CHAP. IX. Tomb of Count Ernsverd, the Engineer who planned the Works of the Fortress of 5zfea^or^ 361 CHAP. X. Representation of the Stone Theatre at St. Petersburg, as it appeared in 1804-, with some of the PulUc Stoves . . 390 CHAP. XI. Plan of St. Petersburg 4-24. GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. PART THE THIRD. VOLUME THE ELEVENTH. CHAP. L P. 1. FROM SALA TO UPSALA. Journey from Sala to Upsala — appearance of Upsala — Present condition of the University — Afzelius— Thunberg — Botanic Garden — Chemical Schools — Mineralogical Collection — University Library — Typographical rarities — Manuscripts— Codex Argenteus — Cabinet of Queen Christina — Myste- rious gift of Gustavus the Third — Executive branch of the University — Degrees — Theses — Cathedral — Burial-place of Linnaeus — monument erected, by the inhabitant's — Image of Thor — Bloody Coat of Eric — Shift of Margaret — New Bota- nic Garden — Lecture Room — Conflicting opinions respecting Gustavus the Third — Habits and manners of the Students — Public Cellars — Conduct of the Students towards the Profes- sors — total want of discipline — neglected state of science — want of emulation — habits of intoxication — Character of the Swedes — Uniform aspect of the country and its inhabitants. CHAP. n. p. 50, UPSALA TO STOCKHOLM. Specimens fr 0171 the Herbarium ofhlnnasus'^Curious IVheel-lock MM5^e;— Gamla Upsala — Skocloster — State of Stockholm upon GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. upon the Author s Return — Character of the young King — Table-talk — Royal Ftte at the Opera House — Evening's Ad- venture — Reflections on the Death of the former Monarch—' Opening of the Sepulchre o/" Charles the Twelfth — Interrup- tion of the amity between England anrf Sweden — Cluh called The Society — Resemblance to Italian Customs — Booksellers — Public Dinners — Interior of the Houses — Coffee prohibited — Anecdotes of the King — Probable Contents of the Chests at Upsala — State of Literature ~— Deplorable condition of the Country — Places of Public Amusement — Academies — Riots at Upsala — Royal Palace — < Chapel — State Apartments — Picture Gallery — Private Cabinets of Guslavus the Third. CHAP. III. p. 109. STOCKHOLM. Public Women — Mildness of the Season — Vauxhall — Watchmen — Balls of the Society — Manners of the Inhabitants — Public Executions — Artists — Royal Palaces — Views of Stockholm — Description q/" Drottningholm — Lake Mcelar — Sudden Change induced by the coming of Winter — Frozen Game-— Population — State of Trade — Boot and Shoe Market — Cabi- net of Models — College of Mines — Igneous Basalt— "Apparel worn ly Charles the Twelfth when he was assassinated — Cast of that Kings face after death — Royal Library — Codex Aureus — Codex Giganteus — Curious Manuscript Code of Medicine — Typographical Rarities — Collection of Original Designs — Royal Museum — Observations on the Literature of Sweden — Literary Productions — Establishments — Gymnasia — Committee for Public Education — Chirurgical and Medi- cal Colleges — Remarks on the Swedish Poetry — List of Poe- tical Works'— 'Operas — Dramas — Comedies — Works in the higher order of Literature. GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. CHAP. IV. p. 15ff. STOCKHOLM TO ALAND. Ckaracteristical Swedish Exclamation — Departure from Stock- holm — Commencement of the Winter season — Grissehamn — Telegraph — Passage-boat — Geographical Nomenclature — Dangerous situation of the Author and his Companions — Providential escape — Aspect of affairs in landing upon Aland — Frebbenby — State Messenger of the Court of Russia — Ruins o/Castelholm — History of that fortress — Skarpans — Change in the Manners of the People — Bomarsund — Vargatta Sound — I Sledge-Travelling — Isle of Vardo — The Parly embark across the Delen Jbr Kumlinge— T/ze Author induced to return to Skarpans — Festivities of Christmas Eve — Attempt to convey the carriage upon the ice — Sudden storm — Village of Vardo — Interior of an Aland Dwelling — Breakfast of the Natives — Extra Post — A turbulent sea fr oxen in one night — Cause of the rapid change— 'The Author recrosses the Bomar- sund — Southern Passage to Kumlinge— 5/a^e of the Delen — . o o _ Geological features of Aland — Manners of the Alanders in IVinter — Number of inhabitants — Means of subsistence- Clergy — Land-measurers — their destructive influence and de- predations. CHAP. V. P. 212. CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY ON THE SEA, TO KUMLINGE. The Author determines to undertake the Southern. Circuitous Route — Introduces his Personal Narrative of that Expedition — Grundsunda — Bergo — Simplicity of the Natives — Increase of Wolves — Sea- hunters — Safety -pikes — The Author deserted by his Guides — arrives at Mushaga — Ravages of the Small'pox — Mode GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. — Mode of forcing a passage through the Ice — Remarkable effect of Snow falling in Sea-tvater— 'Natural Cave of Ice — Sattunga — Description of the Inhabitants — Swedes o/" Aland — Finlandei-s — Remains of antient and pure Swedish — its re- semblance to English — Seal-skin Sandals — Winter occupa- tions of the Alanders — Preparations for a journey on the ice to YinmVmgQ — Description of the Procession on leaving Sattunga — Encounter with the Seal-hunters — Change of route-— Scene exhibited at mid-day — Arrival at Kumlinge — The Author terminates his Personal Narrative. CHAP. VI. p. 247. KUMLINGE TO ABO. The Party leave Kumlinge — Brief account of that island — Bjorko — Brando — Extraordinary Congregation for Divine Service — Yattaskifte]— Bursting of the /ce— Varssala — Revolt- ing manners of the Natives — Valedictory remarks upon the Swedes — Fahrenheit'^- Thermometer fifty -two degrees and a half below freezing — Turvesi Passage — Accidefits from the frost — Helsing — Himois — Vinkela — Action of atmospheric air upon vapour — State of travelling in Finland— Laitis — •— Tursanpare Niemenkyla — Nussis Nummis — Arrival at Aho— -Narrow escape from suffocation. CHAP. VII. p. 273. ABO. O State of Abo — its situation with regard to other Seminaries of Learning — its Commerce — Visit to the different Professors — Frantzi-n — his genius for poetry — Specimen of one of his Odes — Voxi\\:xn — Account of the University — Difficulties encountered GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. encountered by the Professors — Blasters to which Abo has leen liable — Cathedral — Ludicrous mistake— Effect of an Organ upon some Natives of Savo\a\ —'Interesting Cippus in the Chorus Tottianus — Statues and Pictures ' — Inscription in memory q/'Catherine, Widow of Eric XIV.' — Historical Docu- ments concerning this remarkable woman — Swedish Legend upon her Daughter's coffin — Manuscripts preserved in a brazen coffer — Histories of Eric's Reign — Portraits of iMthcr and Melancthon — - /mflo-e of Henry the Martyr — Chapel of Olaus, Bishop of Kho -^'Monument of a Scotch Officer — University Library — Manuscripts— Typographical Rarities — Theatrum Knaiovcucnva— Auditory of Disputations — Pro- fessor Gadolin — Collection of Minerals — Professor Hellenius —'Botanic Garden — Hellenius'* private Collections —Covi- o parative Estimate of the two Universities, Upsala and Abo — State of Society. CHAP. VIII. p. 330. ABO. Concourse of the Natives from the neighbouring Districts — Manners of the Finns — their motives in visiting Abo — their dress— marvellous expedition which they undertake — anecdote of one of them — Streets of Abo — Booksellers — Price of arti- cles — Language and People of Y\n\ar\d — Finnish Poetry—- o Merchants of Abo — Maritime Commerce of Sweden awrf Norway— -Singular customs— Courts of Judicature — Distant Excursions of the Trading Finlanders — Foundation of the University— Number of its Students and Professors— 'Impor- tance of a travelling-carriage — State of the accommodations for Travellers — Cursory reflections previously to the depar- ture for Russia. GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. CHAP. IX. p. 361. FROM ABO IN FINLAND, TO PETERSBURG IN RUSSIA. Journey from Abo to Helsingfors — Description q/ Helsingfors Fortress q/'Svveaborg — Tomh of Count Ernsverd — Strength, size, and importance of Sweahorg— Route from Helsingfors to Borgo aud Louisa—- ^/jproacA to the Russian frontier—^ Boundaries of the Swedish and Russian Dominions — Contrast between the Natives of the two countries — Mode of recruiting the Russian Army — Iniquitous conduct of a Russian Inspector of the Customs — Difficulties that impede the Traveller — Arrival at Frederickshamm — Appearance of that place-" Regulation relating to Posting in Russia — Description of the Post-houses in Russian Finland — Intense cold of the weather during the night — Arrival at Wibourg — Appearance of the Soldiers of the Garrison — Mode of inflicting punishment on Deserters — Inhabitants of Wibourg — Arrival at Petersburg. CHAP. X. p. 390. PETERSBURG. General appearance of the City — Novelty of the Scene exhibited in the Dresses and Figures of the Inhabitants — Expense in the mode of living among the Higher Ranks^^Collection of Art, in the possession of Individuals — Amusements of the dif- ferent Classes of Society — Ice-Hills — Fisit to some of the Public Institutions — Academy of Sciences — Library attached to it — Museum — Valuable Collections, in different branches of Natural History, preserved there — Peter the First — Academy of Fine Arts — nature of the Institution — Fortress -^Tombs of the Imperial Family — Mint — Statue of Peter the First GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. Pirsi — defect of taste in the Artist — expense of the JVork—m Hermitage— Pictures — Hall of St. George — Palace of Peter- hof and Oranienbaum — State of the Peasantry — Mode of managing the Estates of the Russian Nobility --'Checks to Population. CHAP. XI. P. 424. PETERSBURG. Benediction of the JVaters of the Neva — Monastery of St. Alex- ander Nevsky — Religious Festival in honour of that Saint — Tombs — Church of St. Nicholas — Glass-house established by Potemkin — nature of the works carried on there — Foundling Hospital — description of it'— -state of the Children — mortality which prevails amongst them — encouragement given to licen- tiousness by the Institution — Character, temper, and disposi- tion of Paul, before his accession to the throned—Disrespect and insult shewn by him to the memory of Catherine, on his becoming Emperor — Anecdotes illustrating his extra- ordinary conduct— -Remarks on the character of the Empress Catherine — Deposition and murder 0/ Peter the Third. Appendix, No, I. p. 459. Sixty-three Academic Dissertations of Abo ; shewing the State of Science in that University for the last Twenty Years. No. II. P. 465, Index Prcelectionum, quas, bono cum Deo, in Regia Academia Aboensi, omnium Facultatum Professores ceterique docentes, a die Octobris An, mdccxcix, ad idem, tempus anni sequentis, pullicG et privatim, habebunt. GENERAL STATEMENT OF CONTENTS. Appendix, No. III. p. 473. Temperature of the Atmosphere, according to Diurnal Ohserva- vation ; with a Corresponding Statement of Temperature in England during the same period. No. IV. p. 483. Names of Places visited in the Author's Route ^ with their Dis- tances from each other. CHAR i. FROM SALA TO UPSALA. Journey from Sala to Upsala — Appearance o/Upsal.n — Pre- sent condition of the University — Afzelius — Thunberg — Botanic Garden — Chemical Schools — Mineralogical Col- lection — University Library — Typographical rarities- — Manuscripts — Codex Ajgenteus — Cabinet of Queen Christina — Mysterious gift of Gustavus the Third — Executive branch of the University — Degrees — Theses — Cathedral — Burial-place o/^Linnaeus — Moiniment erected by the inhabitants— ^Image of Thor — Bloody coat of Eric — Shift of Margaret — Neiv Botanic Garden — Lee- ture Room — Conflictiyig opinions respecting Gustavus the Third — Habits and mamiers of the Students — Public Cellars — Conduct of the Students towards the VOL. XI. B Professors CHAP. I. ^■- V- ' Journey from Sola to Upsala. FROM SALA TO UPSALA. Professors — total want of discipline — neglected state of science — want of emulation — Habits of intoxication — Character of the Swedes — Uniform aspect of the country end its inhabitants. In our journey from Sala to Upsala, upon the thirteenth of November, we passed through a cultivated country so much resembhng Cam- bridgeshire, in its level corn-land and the ap- pearance of its villages, that we were often reminded of the approach to our own University, as we drew nigh to the most celebrated of the Swedish Seminaries. We met, as before, in our first stage to Tarnaby, numerous bands of Dale- carlians, returning, from their summer excursions for employment, towards their own country. From Tarnaby we next came to Gastre, distant twenty-one English miles from Sala ; and here passed the boundary between the provinces of Wastmanland and Upland. Afterwards we journeyed through Uingtora and Safva; the coun- try being open, bleak, and level, with the very best roads. The land on all sides appeared to be in a high state of cultivation, having lost in pic- ■ turesque beauty what it has gained by man's industry ; for of those forests which almost universally cover the Siveclish territories, not a vestige, nor even a solitary tree, was to be seen. After another stage of twelve English miles and .UPSALA. a quarter, at the distance of fifty-two miles and a half from Sala, we arrived, just as it was growing dark, at Upsala. We had, however, a fine view of the Royal Chateau, upon an emi- Appearance nence, as we entered the town : the Cathedral, also, presents a superb figure, and is visible, upon this road, a considerable distance from Vpsala'. In a former Volume, the appearance of Upsala, in the approach to it from Stockholm, has been described ^ When we first arrived in this celebrated seat of northern literature, having our heads filled with extravagant notions of the splendour of a University which had produced so many illustrious men, we reserved for our second visit a diligent inquiry into its history (1) The resemblance between Upland and Cambridgeshire was noticed in the preceding Chapter: but another traveller, also of the University of Cambridge, affords, in his Manuscript Journal, a curions coincidence with the foregoing observations, by saying that there is a resemblance also in the external appearance of the two Universities. " The tirst appearance of Upsal may be compared to that of the situa- tion and view of Cambridge from the Huntingdon Road. The Palace of Upsal stands upon high ground, as does the County Gaol at Cambridge. The town being below, you look over the latter, and see an extent of flat country around. By the original plan of the Palace, it was intended to occupy three sides of a square parallelogram ; but one side was never finished. Atone ccrner there is a tower : the other side is not completed in the same way. The Governor of the Province resides here, and a few Other persons. It is intended for the residence of the Sovereign, when he visits Upsal. This establishment is quite independent of the Univer- sity." — Dr. Fiott Lee's MS. Journal. {2) Vol. IX. p. 212. Octavo Edition. B 2 UPS ALA. CHAP. I. Present condition of the Uni- versity. Afzelius. and present state'. The high expectations we had formed, with regard to its flourishing con- dition, were not however realized. Every thing seemed to dwindle into insignificance, when the reality was opposed to our ideal picture. The morning after our arrival (TVbueTn^'er 14) we waited upon Dr. y(fzelms, in his apartments in the Palace. He had been during ten years engaged in foreign travel ; and was at this time unpacking his collection, which consisted of natural curi^ osities, from Africa, and other distant regions which he had visited. We presented to him some specimens of rare plants entrusted to our care and conveyance by Dr. Muller of Christiana. As Dr. Afzelius had been in England, and was in Cambridge but a short time before we set out upon this expedition, he seemed to be well aware of the striking contrast which a com- parison of the two Universities must necessarily afford ; and said to us, '' You must not expect to find every thing here upon the same footing as in England : we have neither the same funds, nor the means of exciting an equal degree of emulation among our students." Having expressed an earnest wish to be pre- (1) This has been in some measure anticipated, by the very ample ac- count published by Dr. Thomson, in his Travels in Swedeiu Loud. 1813. UPS ALA. 5 sent at some of the public lectures, he told us chap. that Professor Thunberg, the successor of Lin- v- ' ncEus in the Botanical chair, was at this moment Thunberg. delivering a lecture. We hastened to the spot ; and found this venerable man, so well known for the account he has published of his Travels in Japan, in the old Botanic Garden, opposite Botanic the identical house, or cottage, where Linnceus once resided ; and in which Professor Thunberg now lived. The lecture was given in the Old Green-house, as it used to be by Linnceus, in the Swedish language ; and with such animation of manner, that we much regretted our incapa- city to keep pace with the Professor in his ha- rangue. Some of it we understood : it was upon the interesting subject of the " superba Palmarum familia " of Linnceus ; and immediately brought to our recollection the observations with which he terminates the Prolegomena of his valuable Flora Lapponica\ But what was our surprise, to find the Professor with only half-a- dozen slovenly boys standing around him, as (2) " Calidissimos orbis partes regit superba Palmarum familia; terras calidas incolunt Frutescentes planlarum gentes; australes Europce plagas numerosa ornat Herbarum corona ; Belgium, Daniamqiie, Gra- MiNUM occupant copias; Sueciam, Muscorum agmina; ultimam vero frigidissimamque Lapponiam pallidee Alg^, pra5sertim albi Licbenes. En ultimum vegetationis gradum in terra ultima!" — Flor.Lapp.inJin, Proleg.p.26. AmstAl^l- 6 UPSALA. CHAP, his audience, — the eldest of whom could not be ^- ■ V- ' more than fourteen years of age, — whose whole interest in the lecture seemed to consist in watching for the moment when a palm-branch was cast among them by the Professor, for which they scrambled ; being eager to cut these branches with their knives, for the purpose of making them serve as walking-staves. After the lecture was over, the boys scampered off with their palm-sticks, and the Professor kindly admitted us to see his cabinet of rarities. The account of his voyage to Japan was pub- lished in 1791, and translated into German. An English edition of the same work has since ap- peared in our own country. His cabinet consisted of a large collection of objects of natural history, shells, birds, quadru- peds, insects, plants, and minerals. The last were not numerous ; and they were, in some instances, described under false names : for having presented to us a small quantity of what he considered as the granular tin of Japan, we found it, upon examination, to be an oxide of Titanium. Among the insects we noticed a mag- nificent butterfly, the Atlas of Ceylon, measuring nine inches across its extended wings : also a most beautiful little stag, from the island of Java^ not more than twelve inches in height. His col- upsALA. ; lection of plants contained twenty thousand spe- chap. cimens. We saw also specimens of the cameo *■ y work of the Chinese, which seem to prove that this curious branch of sculpture has been long known in that country; whence, perhaps, the art of cutting cameos was originally derived by the antient and modern nations of the Western world. The Chinese camios are executed in ala- baster and in trap, and sometimes exhibit layers of three distinct colours. One in the possession of Professor Thunherg, representing fruit and flowers, executed in trap, was of three colours — red, green, and white ; and it measured twenty inches by sixteen. At this time, Professor Thunherg was preparing for the press a new edition of his Flora Japonica. Some of the students who had remained in the Green-house afterwards accompanied us in our examination of the Botanic Garden. We Botanic Garden. found a head-gardener employed, with two as- sistants acting under his direction. The princi- pal gardener obligingly presented to us a spe- cimen of Lopezia racemosa, a very rare plant from Peru, with a delicate and beautiful red flower, belonging to the class Monandria Monogynia, of which so few are known. It is not noticed by Martyn, in his edition of Millers Dictionary, 8 UPSALA. cn\v. ixitliougli mentioned in the Cataloiiue of (rreen- ' s luuise and Stove Plants pretixeil to that work. Me have since seen it in tln> (larilen at (\im- I'ridi^r. YVnioni;- tlie I'oreed phmts, \vc were not a little snrprised to tind the eonnnon Kui^lish yew- tree {'J'a.viis baccala), lii'owini;- in pots. It is native in one plaee only in all Sividoi, where it appears dwindleil to a small shrnb. The green- honses were small, but neat, and kejit in good order. It was said that the old garden would soon be destroyed : yet, as a spot saered to the memory ot" Unrurus, this ought, surely, to be preserved, lu the adjoining buildings there was a small wje/i««fnV, where a tew live animals were preserved; as an apo, a parroquet. .S:e.; but there was nothing worth nune partieular notiee. ciu>miMi At'terwards we saw the Cliemieal Schools in the house ot' Prolessor Jo/ni ^•{tzc/ius, brother of u4(lam ^-(fzelius the InUanist. whom we had belbre visited. He was ilclivermg a leetuii'. at the time ot'iun" arrival, to about twenty or tlnrty stuilents; but in a voice so low and inaudible, as to be scareelv intelligible, even to those who were his constant hearers. We observed a tew among them making notes; but the chiet' part ot" the audience seemed to be very inattentive, anil to be sitting rather as a matter of t'orm than tor any UPSALA. 9 purpose of instruction. Their slovenly dress, and chap. manner, were moreover so unlike that oi" the ' y > students in our English Universities, that it was impossible to consider them as gentlemen : they had rather the air and appearance of so many labouring artificers, and might have been mis- taken for a company of workmen in a manufac- tory. Around this chemical lecture-room was Mmeraio- arranged the Professor s collection of minerals, — lecUon. perhaps more worthy of notice than any thing else in Upsala; for the Chemical Laboratory scarcely merits attention. It was classed ac- cording to the methodical distribution of Cro7i- stedt, and has been in the possession of the XJniversity ever since the middle of the eighteenth century. The celebrated Bergmann added con- siderably to this collection, which may be con- sidered as one of the most complete in Europe ; especially in specimens from the Swedish mines, which have long produced the most remarkable minerals in the world. One cabinet alone con- tained three thousand specimens ; and the whole series occupied no less a number than forty. It is true, that, in this immense collection, there were many things denoting an earlier period in the history of mineralogy, and which now belong rather to the study of geology than of mineralogy. One small cabinet contained 10 U PSA LA. models of mining apparatus ; pumps, furnaces, &c. There is no country that has afforded better proofs of the importance of mineralogical studies to the welfare of a nation, than Sweden ; but the Swedes have not maintained the pre-eminence in mineralogy which they so honourably acquired'. The mineralogy of Cronstedt laid the true founda- tion of the science, by making the chemical com- position of minerals the foundation of the species into which they are divided* : and whenever an undue regard for the mere external characters of these bodies causes an attention to their che- mical constituents to be disregarded, it may be regretted, as an effectual bar to the progress of mineralogical knowledge. We next visited the University Libkary. — In ascending to it, we saw the Auditory, as it is called, where the Academical disputations are held, and public lectures read ; having very much the appearance of one of our English Town-Halls. This place is immediately under the Public Library. The President sits at the farther end of the apartment, immediately behind the Respondent. U[)on a bench below the Re- spondent are placed the two Opponents, and (1) Thomsons Trav. in Sweden, p. 173. Loud. 1813. (2) Ibid. UPSALA. II behind them are several rows of seats for the chap spectators. Voluntary opponents frequently ^ -^- . rise among the spectators, who discuss argu- ments with the Respondents. The degrees, or, as they are here called, promotions, are conferred once in three years. Neither the Professors nor the Students have any distinction of dress ; except upon these occasions, when the Pro- fessors wear a cloak, and coloured stockings : yet, surely, if ever in any country the dignity of its Academical institutions require a peculiarity of habit, to distinguish its members from the lower orders of the inhabitants, it is more parti- cularly necessary in Upsala. In Cambridge and Oxford, if the students appear in the streets without their Academical dress, it is generally those only of the petit-maitres among the under- graduates who are tempted to commit this breach of University discipline, by a desire to imitate the habits of the young men of fashion in the metropolis ; but their appearance is never such as to cause them to be confounded with the poorer class of artificers: whereas in Upsala, a student in the streets is not a whit better clad than any working; coachmaker or carpenter in England. We ascended to the University Library. It University •' Library. contains fifty thousand volumes ; which are kept 12 UPSALA. CHAP. I. in very excellent order, and in a handsome room '. The Librarian, Peter Fabius Aurivillius, Professor of Humanity, to whom we delivered our letters of introduction, told us that he had published a complete catalogue of the whole collection, arranged alphabetically, according to the names of the different authors. The alphabetical form is perhaps the most convenient which any cata- logue can have, for the use of persons frequent- ing a public library ; provided only that it be made sufficiently comprehensive, and be ex- tended not only to the names of the authors, but also to the subjects and titles of their seve- ral works. In viewing this collection, we en- deavoured to ascertain to what particular branch of knowledge it was most indebted. The Pro- fessor, to whom we applied for information, told us that it was impossible to determine this point ; affirming that the library was well pro- (l) Dr Fiolt Lee, in his MS.Jotimal, stales the number of volumes at 65,000. The persons >^ho accomi)any strangers in their visits to public libraries are not likely to be very accurate in the accounts which they give in round numbers. Tlie number of tlie volumes in the University Library of Ciiinhridgc liJs never been ascertained ; but Dr. Farmer, Master of Emvmnud College, wlien Librarian, counted the number of authors, and tlu-y amounted to 100,000. This number lias since been greatly augmented ; and tliere are, besides, sixteen other Libraries in Cambrutiic. belonging to the dilferent Colleges. This comparative state- ment will serve to mark the striking diilcrence beivt-een the two establish- ments. UPSALA. 13 vided in all branches of learning. We found chap. here Mr. Turner employed as the amanuensis % ■ ■■ y <> who formerly had the care of Sir Joseph Banks's Herbarium. The library is divided into three distinct parts : the first contains volumes of polite literature, history, and natural history; the second, a collection of various authors pre- sented by Gustavus the Third, when he was Prince Royal : the third consists entirely of volumes of law, physic, and divinity. This library owes its origin to Gustavus Adolphus, or, as he is always called familiarly by the Swedes, Gustaf-Adolph. Like Buonaparte, it was customary with that monarch to reserve, for his share of the plunder, all the books which were found in places cap- tured by his troops : and he afterwards pre- sented them to this University. Several of his successors have, by similar donations, imitated his munificent example. Here is preserved the first book printed in Typogra- Sweden ; namely, Dialogus Creaturarum moralisatus. Rarities. It bears the date ' Stockholm, mcccclxxxiii.' We saw also the only copy known of the Ma- nuale EcclesiiV Linkopensis, printed at Sceuder- kcpuping, in 1525. The first work printed at (2) The same gentleman is mentioned by Dr. Thomson, in his account of Upsala, as being the Librarian at the time of his visit; the name being Torner,a{ter the Swedish manner, — See Trav.in Sweden, p.n4. Lond.1813, 14 UPSALA. CHAP. I. Manu- scripts. Upsala was a Latin Commentary upon the Psalms, of which there is a copy, dated 1515. The other rare typographical curiosities are, a work of Thomas Aquinas, printed in folio, at Mayence, in 1467 ; two editions of the Catholicon of the fifteenth century, without date; and a Latin Bible, in folio, printed at Nuremberg in 1475. Also, the folio Roman editions of Pliny and Suetonius; the first, of 1473; the second, of 1470. Among the Manuscripts, which are very nume- rous, and kept in a room below the Library, there are several of great value ; such as, the Diarium PFadstenense, upon vellum, in small quarto, written by various hands, from the year 1344 to 1544; — an Icelandic copy of the Edda and Scalda, upon vellum; — and the Icelandic Laws, written upon vellum ; a manuscript of great antiquity. But all these are eclipsed, in splendour and value, by the well-known and beautiful Codex Ahgenteus of the Four Go- spels ; considered, and with reason, by all comers, as the most worthy notice of any thing in the whole collection. We had the satisfac- tion of carefully inspecting this precious manu- script, if manuscript it may be called. The characters seem rather painted than written; every letter being executed in silver, with the UPSALA. 15 exception of some of the initial letters, which chap. are of gold : so that every page of the manu- ' ■ »■ ^ script exhibits one continued illumination. A brief extract from this manuscript will serve to gratify mere curiosity, by affording a fac-simile of the characters. It corresponds with our version of the eighteenth chapter of St. Luke's Gospel, at the seventeenth verse : "verily i SAY UNTO YOU, WHOSOEVER SHALL NOT RE- CEIVE THE KINGDOM OF GOD AS A LITTLE CHILD, SHALL IN NO WISE ENTER THEREIN." In the Codex Argenteus, the well-known old Saxon or Gothic word barn is used to signify the original Tctiyiov. The passage occurs thus : AH6N Ol'lJpA "teVDS. SA6D Ml ANavNiHl<4^ <4^llindANrAKA9A The history of this manuscript has been given by so many authors, and set forth with so much perspicuity by Mr. Coxe\ that we shall no (1) See Travels into Poland, Russia, Sweden, and Denmark, vol. IV. p. 151, &c. Mr. Coxe refers to the following works (ibid. p. 157, Note) for the history of this manuscript. " The several editions of the Codex Argcnteus, 16 UPSALA. CHAP, further enter upon it, than by briefly stating-^, V ■»■ ' according to the information we received from the Librarian, that it was completed about the end of the fourth century, by a Bishop of Thrace, in the Gothic language used at that time in Moesia. In the year 1 648, when the city of Prague was stormed by the Swedes, it was found among the literary spoils, by a Swedish County who sent it as a present to his Queen, Christina. Three editions are extant of this valuable Code, of which the best is from the Clarendon Press of Oxford, by Edward Lye, printed in 1750. It contains a Latin Version, and a Commentary upon the Text, by the learned Benzelius; toge- ther with Z/?/e s own observations, and a Gothic Grammar. The leaves of the Codex Argenteus are of vellum, but prepared in a very particular man- ner, and of a violet hue : the cover and back of the volume are of silver, embossed. It is related, that the celebrated Isaac Vossius stole this manuscript, during the confusion which preceded Queen Christinas abdication of the jlrgenleus, by Junius, Slicrnhelm, and Lye. Hickes Granim. Mccso-' Golhica, in his Thesaurus Ling. Sept. La Croze Diss. Philol. at the end of C/iamberlajjne'a Oral. Dom. p. 1.36. Welsleins Proleg. in Nov. Test. sect. 68 to 71. Bib. Up. Hist. p. 116 to 1*23. Le Long. Bib. Sac. vol. II. p. 140, and 538." UPS ALA. 17 throne of Sweden; and that after his death it was purchased for 250/. by Count Magnus Gabriel de la Gardie, who presented it to the University of Upsala. There are in this collection but few manu- scripts of the Classics ; and even these were evidently written after the invention of printing : they are, however, estimable, owing to the uncommon beauty of the calligraphy, which, in some instances, can with difficulty be distin- guished from printing. We saw a good manu- script copy of Horace ; and one of Ovid's Meta- morphosesy less perfect and less legible. All the volumes are inclosed in cases faced with wire. Instead of written certificates, as vouchers for the books borrowed by the members of the University, they make use of printed tickets. The principal curiosity in this library has Cabinet of been mentioned by other authors, and some- Christina. times inaccurately described. It is a cabinet of the most curious and costly workmanship, adorned with paintings, mosaic, and gems, which was presented by the merchants of Ham- burgh to Queen Christina. One of the doors is composed entirely of a single stone, said to be an agate; but, in fact, a slab of that species of stalactite carbonate of lime which is vulgarly called " flowered alabaster." The natural veins, VOL. XI. c 18 UPSALA. CHAP. QY zones, of this mineral, beautifully polished, ' /— ^ have been ingeniously appropriated by a painter, so as to constitute parts of the picture which he has represented upon the stone. Upon one side is seen the destruction of Pharaoh and his Host in the Red Sea ; and few persons would ima- gine that in a work of this kind, which must necessarily have so much of trick in it, the artist could have displayed the sublimity he has really afforded. The tigure of Moses, and the expres- sion delineated in his countenance, are worthy of as great a master as Raphael. An Equestrian Soldier is also figured with great spirit and energy. In this curious piece, the perspective, as it might be expected, is altogether violated. Upon the other side of the slab is a represen- tation of the Day of Judgment ; but this has been evidently borrowed from the famous pic- ture by Michael Angela, in the Sestina Chapel at Rome. It contains some of the same figures ; and has, moreover, the same characteristic por- traits ; such, for example, as those of the Car- dinal, and the Mistress of the painter. The artist, whose name we did not learn, has repre- sented his own portrait among those of the Blessed in heaven, and has decorated his head with the Pope's tiara. Other parts of this cabinet are adorned with antique gems, paint- U P S A L A. 19 ings on precious stones, Florence mosaic-work, executed by inlaid pieces ^of antique marbles, and very curious painting by means of inlaid pieces of wood in mosaic, perhaps the work- manship of Albert Durer, and certainly of his time. But the most singular deposit in this Mysterious gift of Gustavus the Third. room is a donation of Gustavus the Third: it Gustavits consists of two chests of manuscripts, double- locked, chained, and sealed, which are not to be opened until fifty years shall have elapsed from the time of his death. These chests are sup- posed to contain his foreign correspondence, and many papers relating to the principal transac- tions in which he was engaged and the state of Europe at the time of his reign. An English traveller will hardly participate the feelings of curiosity which are betrayed by the Swedes respecting these mysterious boxes. " What a misfortune for us," said one of the inhabitants of Upsala, " that this precious deposit will not be opened in our time." Great expectation is on foot with regard to the things that will come to light when these papers are examined ; but, for our own part, we could not help thinking that the moral of the old fable " Parturiunt montes"" 8ic. will be found very applicable to the event of the opening of these chests, when the times arrives for their inspection, c 2 20 U P S A L A. CHAP. I. Executive branch of the Uni- versity. The number of the students in this University has sometimes exceeded one thousand : at the present time there were not above three hun- dred'. The whole population, including the students and other inhabitants of Upsala and its neighbourhood, did not amount to four thousand persons. The University consists of a Chan- cellor, a Sub-Chancellor, who is always the Archbishop of Upsala, and a President, who is called Rector Magnificus, answering to the office of Vice-Chancellor in our English Universities. There are also Professors of Divinity, Law, Physic, and Philosophy, besides extraordinary adjuncts, as assistants, to each of these Pro- fessorships, Magistri Docentes in the several fa- culties, and Teachers of Modern Languages and the Polite Arts. The principal studies of the place are divided into the four classes above mentioned. The lectures are both public and private, the former being delivered gratis. The annual salaries of the Professors do not exceed 100/. When a Professor has continued in office for thirty years, he is allowed to retire with the title o^ Emeritus, and enjoys his salary for life". (1) When Dr. Fiatt Lee afterwards visited this University, the num- l)er was greatly increased. According to a note in his MS. Journal, there. wore about 800 students at that time. (2) This fact is stated by Mr. Coxe, from whom it is here borrowed. Sec Travds,\o\.lV. p. \A5. Lond. 1787. UPSALA. 21 Students are sent to Upsala about the age of cfjap, sixteen, or even earlier : they lodge in private ' ^ — ' houses in the town, there being no Colleges ; and they are divided into classes, according to the Provinces to which they belong. Lectures begin, as with us, in October ; and continue for about eight months. The degrees conferred, Degrees. are those of Philosophice Candidatus, or Bachelor of Arts ; Philosophice Magister, or Master of Arts ; and in Divinity, Latv, and Physic, the different gradations are styled Candidatus, Licenciatus, Doctor^. Before receiving any degree, a student must undergo several examinations from various Professors, and must compose a Latin Thesis, Theses, which he is bound to defend in the Schools. Similar exercises are also necessary previous to taking the second degree ; and as the different Theses are printed, we were at considerable pains to collect all that could be obtained, thinking they would serve to give a good idea of the state of science in this seminary. We pursued, after- wards, the same plan with regard to the Univer- o sity of Abo; and a list of the subjects upon which the principal dissertations were written, will be found in the Appendix*. Considering (3) See Coxes Travels, ib. (4) The Amoenitates Academical published in 1749, in 8vo. under the auspices of Linnceus, contained a collection of these Theses, but not in their 22 U P S A L A. the manner in which the lectures are given, the sort of people which attend as students, and the total w^ant of all Academical discipline and all incitement to emulation in Upsala, it is quite wonderful that it has produced such a number of persons eminent in every branch of science. Cathedral. Soou after sccing the Library, we visited the Cathedral, which is hard by ; the finest eccle- siastical structure in all Siueden\ The spire of the Cathedral of Wdsteras is said to be loftier, but in other respects there can be no comparison between the two edifices. This of Upsala is a brick building, in excellent order ; having been lately repaired, at a great expense. The archi- tecture of the interior is purely Gothic ; but the outside of the building exhibits a strange mix- ture, with pillars of the Doric order, in conse- quence of work done in a later age, when addi- tions were made to the original structure ; the their original state : they were selected and revised by that great man, and have therefore been regarded as of equal authority with his own writings. The colleclion alluded to in the Appendix, was formed with a view to shew simply what the subjects were of the Theses at Upsala and Aho, as tliey wltl- sever;illy printed in their original form in those Uni- versities during nearly lialf a century. This collection, presented by the author of tliese Travels, is now in the Univcrsitij lAhrari/ at Cambridge, in four volumes (juai to. (I) " Cathedrale ornat tcmplum, inter omnia Suecorum pulcherri- mum," Delicio! Rcgn.Sueci/c, turn, I, p. 380. L. Bat, 1706. UPS A LA. 23 cathedral having often suffered from fire, and as often been repaired. It is said to have been begun in the middle of the thirteenth century, under the direction o{ Stephen Bonneville, a French architect, who followed in its construction the model of the Church of Notre Dame, at Paris^ ; but this date does not agree with the chronology of the accurate Messenius, who, in his " Epitome Scondi^ illustrate^,'' assigns the year 1 1 64 for the commencement of the cathedral^ which was not completed for above two hundred years after- wards, when its dedication took place with ex- traordinary pomp and solemnity*. As we entered this building, we were much struck by its ele- gance and neatness. The altar alone exhibited a barbarous style of ornament, being laden with heavy colossal figures, executed in the worst taste, and already hastening fast to destruction. At the western extremity is a magnificent organ, the largest in Sweden. Near the altar, inclosed (2) See Code's Travels, vol. IV. p. 131. Lond. 1786. (3) " Carolus rex ibi prima basilicae jacit fuiidamenta ex marmore, et post annos cc. fuit opus consummatum." Messen. Scond. Illust. torn. XV. p. 27. Stockholm, 1705. (4) This happened in the year 1435, (ibid. p. 74.) and the event is re- corded in the third volume of the same work. " Archimysta etiam Sueoniae Olaus, consummatam tandem Upsalensium basilicani, Thoma, Stregnensi episcopo, collega adhibito, insigni admodum festivitate, Deo Optimo, Maximo, Divisque, Lausentio, Qiao, ac Erico, inauguraverat, dedicaveratque." Chronol. Scond. torn. III. p. 59. Stockholm. 1700. 24 UPS A LA. CHAP, -jj jj.Qj^ net-work, is the silver coffin containing " ^ ' the reliques of Saint Eric ; not of Eric the Four- teenth, the eldest son of Gustavus Fasa, as has been erroneously supposed, but of Eric the Seventh, son of Jedvardus, who being captured in battle by the Danes, was beheaded, and after- wards canonized for his virtues. His remains were originally interred in Old Upsala, but after- wards transferred to this cathedral'. Eric the Seventh cuts a brilliant figure in the early annals of Siveden : it was this monarch who conquered Finland, and first established Christianity among the inhabitants of that country. He formed a (1) He was taken in battle in the field of Upsala, after contending with the greatest bravery against his rebellious subjects, who were aided by the Danes. [ScondicB IHustrutcB, torn, 11. p. 5. Stockholm, 1700.) l^he Swedes celebrate the Eighteenth of May as the day of his martyrdom. {Ibid.) His reliques were removed to New Upsala in the year 1273. {Ibid. torn. XII. J). 126.) This monarch is spoken of in terms of high eulogy in the Swedish annuls. " Conunodis patri(S sedulus invigitat ; non paucasfundat ecclesias } ipsas proventibus ornat ; liempublicam quoque insiiiiiiter erdi- nat ; eequiisimas condit leges ; impias abrogat ; perversas Sticonum con- sueludinis rudicitus evellil ; inde Jlagitiosos, sine respectu personarum, animadvert it." {Ibid. torn. II. p. 5.) His virtues and severe discipline were not however suited to the views and temper of the Nobles under him, who liad been accustomed to live by plunder and piracy ; conse- quently they conspired against his life, and were joined, in a revolt, by the Danes. There is nothing worth seeing at Old Upsala, or Gamla Upsala, now a villiige, distant about five English miles from the modern city, if we exctpt the three tumuli, said to be the Sepulchres of Odin, Frigga, and Thor, which are neai- the vilhige church. Dr. Fiott Lee visited Gaynla Ujisala in 1 S07, and made a drawing of those tumuli, whence the Vignette to this Chapter is taken. Dr. Lee compares themjj in size and appearance, to the Alounds near Bartlow in Essex, UPSALA. 25 regular Code of the Stvedish Laws, which bore chap. his name ; and he excluded from the benefit of ■_ -\- - those laws all persons who adhered to their antient heathen superstitions. In a small chapel behind the altar is an oblong monument, the tomb of the famous Gustaviis Vasa. His effigy is represented in marble, between those of his two first wives, whose remains are interred in the same sepulchre. This interesting monument has sustained considerable injury, owing to afire, which also did great damage to the cathedral. There are many other tombs which deserve notice, from their relationship to the Swedish history^: but all our attention was taken up, and wholly engrossed, by one ; namely, the tomb, or rather grave, of Linrnpus. A simple Burial- _ place of entablature of stone, let into the pavement at Linnceus. the western extremity of the cathedral, near the door, and under the organ-gallery, now covers the_] mouldering reliques of this illustrious man. With what emotions of sacred enthusiasm will future generations approach the hallowed spot which has afforded a sepulchre to his remains ! — (2) For an account of which, the Reader may be referred to the valuable information contained in the Travels of Mr. Co»e ; an author who lias made History, as it were, his home ; and who is never so much at home as when he is among the tombs of illustrious persons. — See Travels into Po- land, Russia, and Sweden, vol. IV. p. 132, &c. Land. 1787. 26 UP SAL A. He, who was every thing that could be required, to give to the studies of Natural History, in the great scale of Science, their dignity and value' ! How powerful, in its effect upon the heart, will ever be the simple inscription which marks the place where he lies I OSSA CAROLI • A • LINNE' Who will read these words unmoved ; or wish to read more! for of the title that has been added, every letter is superfluous ^ " His NAME," as said his biographer', can never DIE. It will be cherished in the memory (1) " He was early led to regret that natural history had not, by public institution, been more cultivated in Universities ; in many of which, logical disputations and metaphysical theorizing had too long prevailed, to the exclusion of more useful science." — See PuUeney's LinncBUS, by Mulon, ;). 496. Lo7id. 1805. (2) This is the whole of the Inscription : OSSA CAROLI • A • LINNE' E QV A V R. MARITO • OPTIMO FILIO VNICO CAROLO • A • LINNE' PATRIS • SVCCESSORI ET SIBI SARA • ELISABETA • MORiEA (2) See PuUeney's Linnwus, by Maton, ;». 506. Land. 1805. UPS A LA. 27 OF EVERV LOVER OF NaTURE, AND REMAIN ON CHAP. TFIE FAIR RECORDS OF SciENCE, TO THE END .- - OF TIME." Indeed, time alone is wanted, to shew the extent of his researches, and the depth of his knowledge. He seems to have anticipated whole ages of investigation^ : and in the good- ness of his heart, and the tendency of all his writings and discourses to give glory to the great Author of the works of Nature, there was some- thing not only to admire, but to venerate \ In a small chapel near the place of his interment. Monument GrsctGu bv the students and other inhabitants ot Upsala have theinhabi- erected a plain but beautiful monument to his memory. It is executed in the fine porphyry of Elfsdal; the letters of the inscription being of bronze, gilded, and placed in full relief upon the stone. As far as the workmanship is con- cerned, nothing can surpass the effect. An objection may be made against the inscription itself, which has very generally been censured, on account of the words Botanicorum Principi: (4) Witness the extraordinary remark in his Diary, " that he had never seen rudera diluvii universalis, but successiva teviporis." The most ex- perienced geologist of the present day will know how to appretiate the value of this observation. (5) " The habit of scrutinizing and contemplating the wonderful ener- gies and economy of Nature, had the effect of inspiring Linnceus with an unsophisticated sort of pious feeling, which breaks forth, in various parts of his writings, with a peculiar and most engaging eloquence.".— See PaUenej/'s Linnceusy by Maton, ji. 497. I. 28 UPSALA. CHAP, but it should be observed, that this title, and the very words of it, were those which LinrnEus had chosen to appropriate to himself : and although the inscription would have been much better without any such addition, yet this fact may always be urged in its justification. In its pre- sent state, this inscription appears as follows : CAROLO • A • LINNE' BOTANICORUM PRINCIPI AMICI • ET • DISCIPVLI MDCCLXXXXVIII. The expense of this monument, plain and simple as it seems, amounted to two thousand rix- dollars ; of which sum, four hundred were ex- pended in supplying the bronze characters of the inscription. On the south side of the same aisle there is a Monument to the memory of Menander archbishop of Upsala, erected by his son. This monument was executed in Italy; and it is adorned with sculptured figures in marble. A piece of sculptured alabaster also represents the prelate, leaning upon his Bihlia (1) " He was bty led, by all Botanists, PiuNCEi's BoTANicoRUM." See Liunecus'i Diary, p. 566. PuUcney's Linn, by Maton, Lond. 1805. UPSALA. 29 Fennica, receiving the homage of a Groiipe of chap. Figures, whom we supposed to represent the *, ^- < Muses, from the circumstance of their being preceded by a winged Apollo. Among the reliques preserved here, there are some so exceedingly curious, that we cannot omit the mention of them, although they have been noticed by many other travellers. Fore- most in the list of these, is the wooden image of the God Thor, who may justly be styled ** the image of loggerhead idol of the Northern nations." It is much such a representation of the human head in a log of wood, as Scheffer, in his work " De Dlis Lapponum Paganicis," has figured, with a worshipper before it in the act of adoration ^ According to Scheffer, the image of Thor was always of wood, and of this rude workmanship : it was an idol made out of a birch-tree, the head out of the root, and the body out of the trunks This is connected with the old worship of fire ; and, as a proof of it, the votaries of Thor used to drive an iron nail, with a small piece of flint, into the idol's head^ The image (2) Joannis Schefferi Lapponia, p. 105. Franco/. 1673. (3) " Haec idola faciunt ex betula, et ex radice quidem caput, ex Irunco sen caudice partem reliquam." Jbid, (4) •' In capite infigunt clavum ferreum, cum silicis particiila, iit si videatur, ignem Thor cxcutiat." Ibid. 30 UPSALA. was perhaps borrowed from the upright center log, around which, as at the present day in the Northern forests, fuel was heaped, whenever a fire was kindled by the natives. All these an- tient superstitions, as they refer to the customs of mankind in its rudest state, so they may be still found, in their prototypes, among the simple observances, habits, and manners, of a savage people. The Yule Clog still retains a degree of reverence in the northern parts oi England ; the origin of which may have been of the same nature with that in which the Swedish idol was held by its vvorshippers. The log itself, as a symbol of the fire for which it was used, became an object of worship'. Whatever opinion may prevail upon this subject, we shall find that a similar superstition respecting the same sort of idol has prevailed almost all over the world. Among the antient idols of Greece, the Palladium was of this description ; for it was nothing more than a piece of wood of an extraordinary form^ We considered, therefore, this image of Thor as one of the most curious antiquities that any country has preserved ; as connected not only (1) See Brand's Popular Antiquities, pp. I !).'>, 157. Newcastle upon Tyne, 1777. Also Brady's Clavis Calendaria, vol. I. p. 1 24. Land. 1812. (2) Seethe observations of //cj^/it', in his ii'jc«r.s(t», upon \\\c rcilla- diiim and tlie Penates. UPSALA. 31 with the early history of Sweden, but with the ch^ap. most antient mythology in the world ' ; and as ^ — v — ' being worthy of a much more careful keeping than it seems to have here met with, where, from the disregard shewn to its preservation, it is not likely to remain for any considerable length of time. Another curiosity shewn here is more in unison with the taste of a people who preserve among their reliques many a san- guinary testimony of the deeds of murder com- mitted in this country; namely, the coat worn ciat'lff by Eric the son of Steno Sture, his shirt, silk ^'■''^• breeches, and purse, when he was stabbed by Eric the Fourteenth; the place where the wound was inflicted being visible, owing to the marks of blood which flowed from the unfortunate victim*. Here is also shewn a more singular standard than perhaps was ever used in any country to excite the valour of its troops : nor do the Siuedes, in battle, stand in need of any artificial trophies to call their bravery into action ; being, by nature, warlike. It is nothing . (3) According to Mr. Coxe, a correct delineation of this image occurs in the Mojiuvienta Ullarekarensia oi Perinskiold. (4) See Coxe's Travels, vol. IV. p. 137. Loud. 178G. for the description of the monument of the illustrious family of the Sturcs, and for the inter- esting inscription upon their tomb, which is in a small chapel of this Cathedral. 32 UPSALA. Shift of Margaret, Xew Bota- nic Garden. more than a dirty rag, fixed to a staff, like a banner; and called Margaret's Shift, or Shirt. The history of it does not seem to be very well known : all that we could gather respecting it, has been stated by our own countryman, Mr. Coxe ; who says of it^ that it was found by the Swedes at Nuremberg, when they captured the place; and afterwards by them deposited here, in honour of the Semiramis of the North'. Lastly, we were shewn the magnificent robes worn by the Archbishop and other Clergy upon great festivals : they are principally of velvet, embroidered with gold. This collection is kept in a sacristy, up a small flight of stone steps, near the Gothic window of the cathedral : the reliques are preserved in a chamber closed by double doors of massive iron, with ponderous rusty locks. After seeing the Cathedral, we went to the New Botanic Garden and Green-houses; in which latter are apartments for Professor ^fze- lius, the Demonstrator of Botany, as he is here (1) See Coxe's Travels, vol. IV. p. lAX.Lond. 17S6.— " How this shift," •bscrves the same author, " was first procured by the inhabitants of Nu- remberg, why it was there considered as a reliquc, and the exact period when It was imported into Stvcdcn, I nnist leave to be ascertained by those who arc disposed to trace its history and adventures. I did not learn, how- ever, that it has ever had the honour of giving a name to any particular colour, like the shift of Isabella, Queen of Castile." UPS ALA. 33 J. called, and also for Professor Thunherg. To chap. this place all the collection formed by Professor Thunherg, in his extensive travels, was at this time about to be removed ; the Professor having presented it to the University, for public use. The plan was, to place the whole in one oblong room of very considerable grandeur, but cer- tainly not sufficiently capacious to exhibit it to advantage. The Museum ought to have been of the same dimensions as the Green-house, which runs parallel to it, and will perhaps be the first Conservatory of the kind in Europe. They were already beginning to move the plants into this Green-house, from the Old Bo- tanic Garden. In the front of the building is the new Lecture Room, with a magnificent dome and a sky-light. Immediately under this dome is placed the Professor's Chair ; and be- hind the cathedral is a bust of Linnceus, to whose memory both this building and also the New Botanic Garden may be considered as sacred. As to the garden itself, when considered with reference to a University that has done so much for the science of Botany, it can hardly be deemed worthy of Upsala. It consists of six Swedish acres of ground, lying beneath the win- dows of the Palace, and on its western side. But it contains nothing remarkable; and the VOL. XI. D 34 UPSALA. CHAP, wretched taste which has been shewn in laying ^' ' '■»■ ' it out may be conceived, when it is mentioned, that an avenue of clipped fir-trees, barbarously cut into more artificial and formal shapes than ever characterized a Dutchman's garden, lead from the entrance to the Green-house. Setting aside the ugly formality of this appear- ance \ there is another reason for desiring the removal of such an avenue, in the injury done to the garden. The roots of so many fir-trees, occupying a considerable portion of the ground, must have a pernicious tendency in obstructing the growth of plants : and surely in Sweden, which is one vast region of firs, from Scania to Lapmarh, an addition of this kind was not re- quired for the Botanic garden of its principal University. The whole of this new establish- ment, including the Green-house, Museum, Lecture Lccturc Room, Garden, &c. may be considered (1) Whicli is nevertheless a rcliqije of Itoman taste, as appears from a passage of riini/s Letters before cited. See Vol. IX. of these Travels, p. 58. Note (2.) Octavo Kdition. U P S A L A. 35 as one of the splendid monuments of the reign chap. of Gustavus the Third, to whom it is entirely ■>■ y ^ due; and of whom, in the present conflicting state of party and opinion in Sweden, it is almost impossible to speak with truth and accuracy. According to one set of men, his memory should conflicting be held as deservedly glorious. When his con- respecting duct in public affairs is censured, as having f,^eTllrd. proved ruinous to the Swedish finances, '* let the works he left behind him," say they, " at least be properly estimated, to prove that his lavish expenditure of the pubUc money was always intended for the public good, and never idly nor vainly squandered." The same set of men affirm that Gustavus the Third was not calcu- lated for the Swedes ; that his polished manners and enlightened mind were too refined for them; that not a single work exists in Siveden calcu- lated to promote public honours, to give en- couragement to the arts and sciences, to improve the manufactures, or to afford patronage to learn- ing, but it may be referred to his reign. Equally endowed, they add, by every qualification that is requisite to form the character of a profound statesman and a great king, posterity will recall with gratitude the memory of this distinguished tnonarch, will drop a tear in viewing the splendid monuments of his taste and patriotism, and will D 2 36 UPS ALA. CHAP, shudder in the recollection of his fate : and y. y " ' when the prejudices of party, the interests of selfish politicians, and the suggestions of private resentment, shall be done away, future genera- tions will read his history, and place him with Augustus and Hadrian. Having heard this eulo- gium, as it is frequently pronounced in Sweden, the whole of it will be contradicted by an oppo- site statement, made by persons who spare no pains to execrate the very name of Gustavus the Third; and who, vilifying his character by the most odious of calumnies, speak of him only as an object of detestation. The time is not yet arrived when History will place him in his true light. In the mean time, to counteract in some degree the injurious designs of his adversaries, it may be added, from the representation made by those who resided with him while he was in France, and were intimately acquainted with the man, that nothing can be more unjust than the aspersions cast upon his private character'. Having thus described whatever is worthy the notice of a traveller visiting the public buildings of this University, a few words may now be added upon the manners of the inha- (l) In this number was the late Professor /'(///«.?, and other distin- guishul men of letters, with wliom Gusluvus associated. UPSALA. 37 bitant?. When an Englishman speaks of the chap. Universities of Sweden, or when he is reading ' . — ' the different accounts that have been published of Upsala, it is not often that any right notions are entertained, either of the Seminary that bears this name, or of the habits and tact of the Students and Professors. If, for example, he Habits and ^ manners of forms his notion of a Swedish University from the stu- '' dents. any thing he has seen of similar establishments in his own country, associating ideas of Cam- bridge and Oxford with his imaginary concep- tions of Upsala, Lund, and Ibo, he will be egre- giously in error. It is not easy to conceive any thing more foreign to all our notions of the dignity and splendour of a national seminary for education, than in the real state of things in Upsala. Perhaps there may be something to compare with it in the Universities of Scotland ; but even in the last there is nothing so low as in Sweden. Let the Reader figure to himself a few dirty-looking lackeys out of place, lounging about in slouched white hats, with a loose sur- tout thrown over their shoulders, one arm of which hangs empty and dangling by their side, and long military boots rising above the knees ; their hair uncut, uncombed, and undressed, hanging as long in front as in the rear, but parted over the middle of the forehead, so as to fiia 2iCG58 {J8 UPSALA. fall in long unsightly tresses about the eyes, cheeks, and ears ; giving to the whole figure an appearance not unlike the effigies which the rabble in England dress up to represent Guy Faivkes upon a Fifth of November. This descrip- tion of their costume is no exaggeration ; it is peculiar to all of them, of whatever rank or situation in the University, boys or men; but by much the greater part are boys. Then for their lodgings; — for, as it was before stated, there is no such building as a College for the accommodation of any of them : they all dwell in hired lodgings, in the private houses of the tradesmen and other inhabitants : — entering one of these lodgings, and comparing them with the justly reprehensible luxury and extravagance visible in the room of a student in our English Universities, the contrast is great indeed ! — a single gloomy chamber, with a bench or couch, by way of bed, in one corner ; a stove, and per- haps two chairs ; the naked walls hung with wretched prints or dingy-looking maps ; and tobacco-pipes, and other lumber, littering about the chamber. We found here one of the identi- cal party by whom we were formerly assailed in our journey from Umea to Malmagen, in the Norwegian Alps ; and whom we have mentioned in a former Volume, as a student of Upsala, UPSALA. 39 who presented to us some Runic Calendars', chap. By his means we obtained an introduction to many of his fellow-students, and became ac- quainted with the internal policy of the place. Every one studies what, and when, he pleases : of course, very little real application to learning takes place among them. Soon after mid-day, they resort in numbers, '' d, la cave" as it is termed ; that is to say, to a public cellar for ^^^l^^ drinking, of which there are two or three in Upsala, precisely answering to the tap-rooms in English alehouses. Here they smoke tobacco, and drink beer, or brandy, or wine. The beer is a composition manufactured at Stockholm, and very bad: although perhaps less unwholesome than the deleterious mixture now sold under the name of beer in England; which, by its baneful effects, has actually altered the character of the lower orders, and substituted a morbid and gloomy irascibility for jovial hilarity ; so that a merry drunkard is hardly ever seen. The luine, though called French wine, is also from the breweries of Stockholm ; and the brandy is of the worst quality. Swedish brandy, in whatever part of the country it is found, is everywhere alike; a weak spirit, flavoured with aniseed, (I) See p. 122 of the Xth Volume of these Travels. 40 UPS A LA. CHAP, and, when diluted with water, causing a preci- pitation, as if milk had been added to the mix- ture. In these cellars they remain, not only the whole of the rest of the day, but until long after midnight, and sometimes all night. Their revels too, or rather brawls, are not unfre- quently attended by blows ; their disputes, especially when they are of a political nature, ending often in pugilistic combats. We visited one of these cellars ; and found about twenty of the students enveloped by thick fumes of tobacco-smoke ; some of whom were sleeping upon chairs, and others lolling upon a bench. Our friend, who introduced us, announced that we were from the University of Cambridge : upon which the greater part did us the honour to rise ; forming a circle round us, and asking several questions relative to our journey, and motives for visiting Sweden. These we were preparing to answer ; when a votary of Bacchus, giving us a hearty slap between our shoulders, reminded us, that, as strangers, we ought to drink upon our coming among them. Some glasses being presented, filled with bad Malaga wine, we immediately drank " To the prosperity of the University of Upsala.'' A young American student, who was one of the company present, did not seem to relish the sort of wel- U P S A L A. 41 come they were disposed to give us : and at the chap. same time being eager to make known the prin- - .,/ - ciples he had imbibed, he said we might have swallowed the Malaga without a ceremonious toast : — and then he added, " The students of Upsala, brought up in the school of Liberty, are not constrained, as in England, to interrupt their libations with the palaver of a toast." To this we made answer, that we were thankful for the information ; as it would enable us to avail ourselves of that freedom from restraint, which he boasted, to resign our glasses ; having no other use for them than to testify our washes for the success of a University so celebrated as that of Upsala. However, having set the example, the hearty Swedes were not deficient in courtesy towards the strangers ; but all filling bumpers, drank, with loud cheers, '* Prosperity to the University of Cambridge /" — while the surly Yankee remained silent, and sat apart, puffing fumes from his pipe. The heat of one of these cellars is almost equal to that of a vapour-bath. Sometimes conduct of ^ ^ , the Stu- they all sally forth ; and woe betide the unpo- dents to- pular Professor who may happen to be in their professors, way, when the convives (\\\\t their sudatories! They have two different watch- words ; one of which controuls or animates their fury upon 42 UPSAI.A. these occasions. If the Professor be a favourite, the cry of ' vivatf is heard, and he is suffered to proceed without molestation; but if other- wise, a shout of 'pereatf is the signal for attack; when the Professor either makes his escape as rapidly as he can, or is very roughly Total want handled. There is no account taken, as in our of disci- pline Universities, of the hours when they return to among the i i • i Students, their lodgings. Every one acts as he thinks proper in this respect. Discipline, if ever any such regulation existed in Upsala, has long ceased ; and in the total laxity of all wholesome restraint among a set of untamed youths let loose from their parents^ it may be imagined what disorders must ensue. Indeed it was much to be feared at this time, and the event has in some degree justified the apprehension, that this famous University, called, by Stilling- JLeety ** that great and hitherto unrivalled School of Natural History," together with the Empire it no longer adorn-ed, were hastening to their dissolution. The number of students has been said to vary annually from six hundred to a thousand, which is a gross exaggeration of the truth : their number at this time, as was before stated, did not exceed three hundred ; and no instance occurs of more than thirty being present at the same time at any public Jecture, UPSALA. 43 It may be urged, and with truth, that public chap. drinking-cellars are not the places in which to ' look for the reading class of the students : men SoT'' seriously disposed towards studious employment ^*^'^""- are seldom those, in any University, who are seen in the streets or in taverns : but there was no such individual to be found in the place as a student distinguished by his talents and by his attention to University studies ; and for this plain reason, that there were none of those Want of public examinations, and those trials of ability, with distribution of honours and rewards, which powerfully call emulation into action ; stimu- lating that love of fame inherent in every human breast, especially in youth ; and feeding the fire of genius, by agitating every latent spark, until it bursts into flame. It cannot be expected, that in a society like that of Upsala, destitute alike of discipline and of all the springs of mental energy, its students will ever become much distinguished. Among a number of young men so circumstanced, it is not at all marvellous to observe an indifference with regard to morals, and a striking disregard of all precept and admonition. The fault is not with them : under a better system, there can be no doubt of their becoming bright ornaments of their country ; because a love of truth, strict honesty, goodness 44 UPSALA. CHAP, of heart, generosity, assiduity, serenity of mind, ^^ — . — ' firmness, constancy, courage — all these, and many other qualifications, that become a man, and fit him to shine as a distinguished member of society, are the natural characteristics of the generality of the Swedes. There is one virtue, however, which we have been compelled to omit in the list : we may not add sobriety, when we are speaking of the students of Upsala; Habits of bccausc their chief vice consists in habits of intoxica- tion, intoxication : and it is a vice not easily to be exterminated, in a country where examples of sobriety are so much wanted. If parents con- sider it no degradation to be seen by their children in a state of drunkenness, it is not to be expected that the rising generation should acquire more polished and rational habits. The consequence however, in Sweden, is deeply to be deplored. Young men, grown old before the period of their youth has expired, make their appearance before a traveller wnth sallow countenances, fallen cheeks, dim eyes, bending bodies, nostrils clotted with snuff, an enormous tobacco-pipe dangling from their lips, their teeth black and carious ; sitting in gloomy apartments filled with smoke and fetid air, the floors of which are covered with the filth of expecto- ration ; and at the age of five-and-twenty having UPSALA. 45 anticipated, by their excesses, the decrepitude chap. and infirmities of fourscore. Perhaps it will * — v — ' be said, that this picture is too highly coloured ; and that a feeling of disgust, excited by the view of some rare instances where this descrip- tion is applicable, may have led to too general a remark. Of this others may determine : the remark is made as it was written in the country to which it refers ; and if it be found afterwards less extensive in its application than was believed at the time, the author, who has not seen Sweden " with a jaundiced eye," may be acquitted of any intentional deviation from the truth. The passing traveller must see many things in haste, and perhaps form many of his conclusions too rapidly. He may also, from the very circum- stance of his transitory intercourse with the inhabitants, view some things in a more advan- tageous light that would be admitted by those who reside for a long time in the country. Sometimes, in conversing with those of his own character countrymen who have remained long in Sweden^ "stve/es. where the author has extolled the hospitable and obliging disposition of the natives, he has been told that the novelty of seeing strangers makes them load the new-comer with all man- ner of caresses and favours ; but that when this wears off, the disposition to confer acts of kind- 46 UPSALA. ness ceases also. And surely, where a tendency to spunge upon the noble hospitality of a Swede has caused a stranger to exhaust the benevolent feeling extended in his behalf, he is rightly served if he experience the full effect of its diminution. Some of the French emigrants, as it is well known, did make remarks of this nature ; and their natural peevishness of temper led them to vilify their benefactors. Sweden is not the only country where they evinced a similar disposition — cursing, rather than bless- ing the hand that fed them. De Latochnaye was an emigrant, and a writer of this description ; little disposed to acknowledge the extent of his obligation to those by whom he was so hospi- tably entertained, both in Sweden and Nonvay * and surely, if any one ever put the Sivedish hospitality to its full trial, it was De Latochnaye; who, having met with a serious accident in the north of Sweden, took up his abode with a family of the name of Nordenfalk, with whom he remained until his recovery was complete; receiving the whole time a degree of attention and kindness which could not have been exceeded if he had been himself a member of that family : and for once he has permitted him- self to acknowledge the hospitality he expe- rienced, during his long residence in the house <«. UPSALA. 47 of Nordenfalk, in terms of gratitude'. What char becomes then of the observation, that the Swedes only shew their hospitality to a stranger so long as he may be considered as a stranger ? At the same time, in describing the manners as well as the good qualities of the Siuedes, there are some barbarous habits which cannot be overlooked. The elegancies, and even the comforts of polished life, are almost unknown in many parts of the country: hence it is that the middle class of females are not ashamed to use their fingers, instead of a pocket-handkerchief, in wiping their noses. De Latochnaye, of course, did not allow this practice to escape his observation : accordingly, we read the following facetious remark upon the use to which a pocket-hand- kerchief is applied by the female peasants of Dalecarlia; and it is also applied to other female peasants throughout the country: — " Le mou- choir, en SuMe, est diversemerit employe par les gens de differens rangs: en se rendant a teglise, les paysanneSf qui sont communement proprement vetuesy out un livre et un mouchoir hlanc d, la main., ce qui ne les empeche pas cependant de se moucher avec les (1) " Je quittai enfin la maison hospitaliere de Holm, le cceur p^netre des attentions qu'on y avait eus pour moi." Promenade d'un Fran^ais' en Suede, ^-c. tom.ll. p. 47. a Brunswick, ISOl. 48 UPSALA. CHAP. doigts\'\ Add to this the abominable practice, < V as in Germany, which is confined neither to rank nor sex, of spitting upon the floors of all the apartments. The sooner such habits are ba- nished, the better ; even the subject being, to an English ear, very revolting. We may there- fore pass to the mention of other characteristics, more pleasing to enumerate ; and bring this Chapter to a close. Nothing is more strikingly conspicuous in the disposition of a Sivede, than simplicity of mind and sincerity of heart; but these qualities will be found to degenerate sometimes into great credulity, and a too easy confidence in the honesty of strangers. The Swedes are always open to imposition, and ready to follow the dictates of any leader, however sinister his designs may be. In the remotest provinces, upon the coming of a traveller who may want assistance, they advance their money without security ; and rely implicitly upon the honour of perfect strangers to repay what neces- sity has demanded and hospitality has allowed without the smallest hesitation. These reflections occupied the author's mind, as he was preparing to leave Upsala, and to repair once more to Stock- Jiolm ; while he ruminated upon the long tract of (l) Promenade d'uti Fian^ais en Suede, <^c. torn. I. ;;. 211. UPSALA. 49 Sivedish territory over which he had journeyed, chap. and called to mind the people he had scon. ■■■. - y « <' From the Arctic Circle to the entrance into the Uniform Baltic Sea, the Swedes are, with little variation, tiie coun- the same. A remarkable uniformity may be laLbltantl considered as distinguishing not only the aspect of the country, but also tho minds and persons of the inhabitants. A traveller who has been accustomed to remark the sudden change, in Itafy, in passing the most insignificant natural or artificial boundary ; who sees the people on one side of abridge quite a different race from those on the other; is surprised, in such a country as Sweden, when he finds the natives of the most distant provinces appearing as though they were all members of the same family. VOL. XI. Curious Wheel-lock Musket. CHAP. 11. UPSALA TO STOCKHOLM. Specimens from the Herbarium of Linnaeus — Curious Wheel-lock Musket — Gamla Upsala — Skocloster — State of Stockholm upon the Author's Return — Character of the young King — Table-talk — Royal F^te at the Opera House — Evening's Adventure — Reflections on the Death of the former Monarch — Opening of the Sepulchre of Charles the Twelfth — Interruption of the amity between England and Sweden — Club called The Society — Resemblance to Italian Customs — Booksellers — Public Dinners — Interior of the Houses — Coffee prohibited — Anecdotes of the King — Probable Contents of the Chests at Upsala — State of Literature — Deplorable con- dition of the Country — Places of Public Amusement — Academies — Riots at Upsala — Royal Palace — Chapel — State U P S A L A. 51 State Apartments — Picture Gallery — Private Cabinets of Gustavus the Third. 1 HE young Student, who, by his attentions here, had so amply made amends for his former rudeness to us in IJelsingland\ possessed, not- withstanding his Gothic manner and appearance, a heart open and liberal, and somewhat of a taste for science, especially in forming collec- tions of natural history and the antiquities of his country. We before noticed this circum- stance '^j when mention was made of his Herba- rium and Runic Calendars. In the single chamber which he occupied at Upsala, and which consti- tuted his whole set of lodgings for bed and board, the room was strewed with the harvest of his summer excursions — boxes of insects, dried plants, and whatever curious old relique of antient customs in Sweden he could pick up. Among his plants, he had a few specimens that specimens belonged to Linnceus, which that illustrious man Herbarium had himself pasted upon papers, and, at the nceu^^' back of each specimen, had marked by his own autograph names : he presented no less than five of these to us'. With the exception only (1) See die former Volume of these Travels, p. 121. (2) Ibid. p. 122. (3) They have been since presented to tlie Filxwilliam Museum, m Cambridge, where they are now preserved. E 2 52 UPSALA. Curious •wheel-lock Musket. CHAP, of the first, they are all described in the Flora y ' Lapponica and Flora Svecica\ But the most singular rarity of his apartment was an old wheel-lock musket which stood in one corner of the room, and which he told us one of his ancestors had formerly brought into Sweden from Pomerania. It was probably a part of the spoils of war : and as it seemed to us to be one of the most extraordinary works of art existing, and he wished to part with it, we bought it of him for the price at which he valued it. Once it must have cost an enormous sum ; being, in all (1) The first, as the autograph states at the back of it, grew in the Botanic Garden at Upsala. 1. BiscuTELLA Apula — a native of Italy, vulgarly called " Spear- leaved Buckler-mustard." — The plant is too well known to need further description. 2. Aeabis Alpina. (Flor. Lapp. 257. p. 213. Amst. 1737.) com- monly cMei Alpine Wall- Cress. It is a native of the Alps, and other mountains of £!tro/)e; being found on rocks, in caverns, and in woods. We found it often in the higher parts of Lap- land. It was cultivated at Oxford m 1658; and is now become very common in gardens §• 3. Gnaphalium sYLVATicuM. {Flor..Svec. 61 5. p. 245. Stockh.1745.) The " Wood Everlasting, or English upright Cudweed." — It grows in several parts of England. 4. LicuEN PHYsoDEs. {Flor. Svec. 951. p.546. Stocfch, 1745.) The well-known Moss of the Birch-tree. 5. Lichen vkixkus. This was found by Linnecus upon the Lapland rocks. {Flor. Lapp. 454. p. 545. Amst. 1137.) In his Flora Svccica [vid. 9G8. p. 353. Stockh. 1745.) he says it is common near Upsala. § Seo Miller'i Diet, by Martyn, Vol. L (Arabis.) UPSALA. 53 respects, fitted not merely to adorn, but to cut a splendid figure among the weapons of a regal armoury. To give a complete account of this curious relique, would require an entire volume, illustrated with an hundred plates. The whole of the stock, from the lower extremity of the butt to the muzzle of the barrel, is of ivory inlaid with ebony ; representing, in a series of masterly designs, the Bible History, from the Creation to the time of David. The style of these designs is like that which may be often observed in old illuminated manuscripts, and in the wood-cuts copied from such illuminations ; which seem as if they had been all borrowed from the works of the same master*. In the representation, for example, of the creation of mankind, the Deity is pourtrayed in the dress of the Pope, handing Eve out of Adam's side^ : yet there are parts of (2) Beginning from the muzzle of the musket, and proceeding from left to right towards the butt, and back again, the whole length of the opposite side of the stock, there are nearly one hundred pictures exhibited by means of exquisitely inlaid ivory. The first delineation represents the Animal Creation; then follows the Creation and Fall of Man; the Ex- pulsion of the Human Race from Paradise ; their Agricultural Labours ; the Death of Abel ; the History of Noah ; the Deluge ; &c. &c. — the whole being censidered, in all probability, as a connected series of power- ful amulets, calculated to protect the bearer of this musket from all dan- gers " ghostly and bodily," (3) See the account of a splendid MS. in the Mostyn Library in Flintshire, as communicated by the Author to the celebrated Pennant, for his " History of the Parishes of Whiteford and Holywell ," p. 74. Land. 1796. CHAP. IL 54 UPSALA. ^^^^- the workmanship equal to the performances of ' '-y- ' ' Albert Durer, and which exhibit characteristic marks of the age in which he lived'. Before we left Upsala, we should have visited Gamia the viUasfe of Gamla Ubsala, distant about five Upsala. ° / • r ^ English miles north of the modern city, if there had been any remains of antiquity there worth the trouble of making an excursion on purpose to view them. In our former journey from Upsala to Ge/le, we had before passed in sight of the village church; near to which are the three remarkable tumuli represented in the Vignette to the preceding Chapter, and which tradition has assigned to the bodies of Odin, Frigga, and Thor. Nothing can be more obscure than the history of the first kings, or divinities as they are often called, of antient Scandinavia ; in which, the more we seek for information, the farther we seem to recede from all hope of coming at the truth. A great source of error has been caused by confounding the Teutonic with the Celtic nations, which were, ah origine, two distinct people*. Conical heaps raised over (1) A Vignette picfixcd to tliis Chapter will serve to shew the form of this curious weapon, and also one of the nutnerous representations upon tiie stock. (2) See Mallet's Nortlierii Antiquities, Trcf-to Vol.1. Edinh. 1809. U P S A L A. 55 the dead are generally Ce/^zc sepulchres; but in the rarity of Celtic monuments in Siveden and Norivay, added to other circumstances conspicuous in the appearance of the ground about the supposed sepulchres of Gamla Upsala, which have never yet been opened, or in any way duly examined, there is reason to suspect that these will here- after be found to be natural elevations, and not artificial heaps. A little time spent upon the spot may hereafter enable some curious traveller to ascertain the real nature of those tumuli. If they should be proved to be places of burial, there is little probability of their having been constructed by the ancestors of the present race of Stuedes, who in the period when such mounds were raised over the dead in the north of Europe were not inhabitants of Sweden. At a much later period in history, when Mithradates sought for refuge in those deserts of Russia now inha- bited by the Don Cossacks, the followers of Odin, being obliged to withdraw themselves from the vengeance of the Romans, began to seek, at this distance from the field of Pompeys triumphs, that safety which they could not find in their own country \ (3) Mallet makes their principal city, at that time, Asgard, between the Biuick Sea and the Caspian ,- considering them as the jlses, a race of Sct/- thians ; CHAP. II. 56 RETURN TO STOCKHOLM. CHAP. We now took our last leave of Upsala, and set ^— N ' out again for Stockholm, through an open, flat, sicocioswr. and fertile country. We passed Skocloster, as in our former journey, on the right, the seats of the Counts of Bi-ahe, one of the oldest families in Sweden. In the house there is a curious col- lection of antiquities and other rarities, which are esteemed worth seeing. It lies out of the main route. In this part of our journey we observed, upon the eastern side of the road, a few reliques of the primeval inhabitants of the country ; such as, rude upright masses of stone and tumuli, which seemed to be sepulchral mounds. The political events of the day, upon our re- turn to the Capital, will have lost all interest, from the length of time that has elapsed before the publication of this Part of our Travels ; but as they are intimately connected with the Swedish history, we shall not entirely omit the mention of them. A number of express couriers, passing us upon the road, had already apprised us of the birth of the young Prince, which had just taken place ; messages being despatched with thian.% ; and thinks tlicre is reason to believe that AznJ", or, as he writes it, yln-of, derived its name from this nation. But who will venture into an inquiry where, as lie juditiously observes, " the most profound re- searches, the most ingenious conjectures, discover nothing to us but our own ignorance?" STOCKHOLM. 5/ the intelligence to all parts of the kingdom. He chap. was born on Friday, November 8th ; and after- '^ wards christened by Troil archbishop of Upsala. state of We arrived upon the i6th. Some slight dis- ontheAu- turbances had taken place, which were very Jurl*'*" generally the subject of conversation. Upon the day appointed for the celebration of the birth of his Majesty Gmtavus the Fourth, the shop- keepers of Stockholm had given a dinner to the French Consul. Among other ceremonies at this fite, two busts had been prepared, and publickly exhibited ; the one of Buonaparte, and the other of Field-Marshal General Suivarof. The com- pany drank pumpers of wine to the health of Buonaparte, but filled their glasses with water when Suwarof's health was proposed, and dis- charged their contents in the face of his bust. At this the King had been so much displeased, as already to shew the most marked resentment towards some of the offenders. Dupuis, leader of the opera band of musicians, was banished the kingdom. One of the comedians was also or- dered to quit the country; together with Robinhof, master of the tavern where the dinner was held. It is necessary to state these particulars, in order to explain what happened at the Theatre as soon as we returned. The King was present; when 58 STOCKHOLM. ^Yj^^- the comedian here alluded to, in the part he ' — • — ' acted, held a dialogue with an actress as a cham- bermaid, who addressed him in the following manner : — " Begone ! what are you doing here ? You must be sent away." To which he answered : " It may be so : but I shall not stir. I am very well where I am 3 and intend to remain here." At the delivery of these words, a sudden and very vehement applause burst from the audience. The King, evidently ruffled, rose from his seat, waving his hand, and calling silence : but the applause became louder than ever, and his Ma- jesty sate down disconcerted. The actor, it seems, had been ordered into exile ; but had not been banished, because the King owed him above a thousand dollars. After the piece concluded, the debt was paid, and the player was ordered to leave Stockholm within twenty-four hours. We Character had frcqucnt opportunities of hearing the King's of the young character discussed. He was said not to have any private intimacies, nor to have been influ- enced by any of those creatures c^Wed. favourites, because he never had one. He superintended and directed every thing himself; consequently every STOCKHOLM. 59 thing was mismanaged. The state of the public chap. finances was becoming daily more and more deplorable : and this was to be expected, where so young a monarch presided over and governed all things, endeavouring, upon all occasions, only to shew how completely absolute he was. His Ministers, moreover, were men utterly incapable of rendering him any effectual counsel, if they had been consulted, — which was not the case. One day, the merchants of Stockholm waited upon him, to represent the ruin that would inevitably befall them, if the public credit were not re- trieved : to which the young monarch replied, that " it was not for a set of commercial men to trouble their heads with such matters — that he had already considered their situation, and had taken proper measures to prevent the evil from taking place." When the Queen's accouchement drew nigh, according to the usual ceremony of etiquette observed more or less in many Courts, but rigidly adhered to in Sweden, the King, the Duchess of Sudermania, and other exalted per- sonages, amounting in all to twenty persons (among whom were some unmarried men), were stationed about her person, to become the spec- tators of her pains and delivery. It was said, that, with a view to avoid the indecency of such an 60 STOCKHOLM. exposure, the late Queen kept the moment, when her throes were coming on, a secret ; by which means she escaped a public accouchement. At this time, no persons in Stochholmy who affected to be versed in State secrets, or who, from their situation, might be supposed to possess accu- rate knowledge with regard to such matters, regarded the reigning sovereign as the son of his predecessor. The Courts of despotic Princes are generally the very hot-beds of every species of revolting slander ; and, in the list of these, the Court of Siveden' was peculiarly conspi- cuous for the foulness of the calumnies which were set on foot against every individual about the throne. We shall neither sully these pages, nor offend the Reader, by detailing the oppro- brious anecdotes which were everywhere in circulation respecting these august personages : but as the similitude which the reigning monarch (1) It maybe said that the government of Sweden was not wholly despotic. Mr. Coxe considered the King of Sweden as a limited, but not a despotic sovereign. [See Travels, tj-c. vol.W. p. 372. ionrf. 1784.) But the same author acknowledges (p. 369) that " the whole of the executive power is virtually vested in the King : for though it is said to be entrusted to hira conjointly with the Senate, yet, as his Majesty appoints and removes all the members of that council, and, in tlie admi- nistration of afl'airs, asks only their advice, without being bound to follow it, he is absolute master of the Senate." Sheridan {Hist, of the laic Revo- lut.in Sweden, —■■* Russia !!! Desmaisons, the celebrated author of an Essay on the Revolutions of Sweden, in developing from national character and foreign political interests the true sources of those changes which have successively agitated the Swedish dominions, has also unconsciously pointed out the steps which ultimately led to the death of the very Sovereign who accomplished the most remarkable of all the revolutions the country has sustained'. Can it be supposed that an event of such immense political importance, reflecting such a distinguished lustre on the character of Gustavics the Third-, and such dismay upon his adversaries, would be speedily for- gotten; or that the hatred towards him, in- creased by the annihilation of the self-interested projects of a party, ever slept, so long as any ,of that party continued to exist in Siveden, and to hold communication upon the subject of the loss they had sustained ? It only taught them to be more circumspect in carrying on their designs against the King's life than they had (1) See " Hislnire de la dernierc Revolution de Suede," par Jacques Le Scene Desmaisons. Amst. 11S2. (y) Guslavus the Third was twenty-five years old when he was pro- claimed King, the year before the Revolution of 1772. STOCKHOLM. 69 hitherto been m executing their former projects, chap. In our long journey through Sweden, we often endeavoured to procure accurate information relative to the real authors and abettors of the conspiracy which ended in his assassination by the hand of Ankarstrom ; but the circumstances respecting it were either told with the most evident exaggeration, or with an air of studied and stupid mystery, which, bordering upon affectation, prevented further inquiry. From all, however, that we could collect, notwith- standing the difficulty of coming at the truth, it seemed plain that the conspiracy had been going on for a long time before its object was accom- phshed in the death of the King, and that the inhabitants of the most distant provinces in the realm were engaged in its operation. The only wonder is, that where the number of the dis- affected was so numerous, a secret of such moment could so long remain concealed. Some of the Swedish gentry maintain that the num- ber of the conspirators exceeded a thousand. Judging only from the facts which have tran- spired ; from the conduct of the enemies of the King, and of suspected persons before and after his death ; there is good reason to believe that individuals the most distinguished by their rank, by their relationship to Gustavus, and also others of the Sepulchre of Charles tkeTwelfth 70 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, who pretended to class among the number of ' ^- his most intimate friends, were implicated in his murder. We could not help thinking, that in the crowded assembly we now beheld, and perhaps among those who were in immediate attendance upon his son, there were persons well qualified to dispel all doubts upon this subject. Opening A fcw days after this/e^e at the Opera House, we went to Ridderholm Church, to see the sepulchre of Charles the Tivelfth, which had been opened by order of the young King. In the uncertainty which has always prevailed respecting the death of this hero, his remains have more than once before been submitted to examination, with a view of ascertaining, from the appearance of the scull, whether the wound which caused his death were inflicted, or not, by the hand of an assassin. Perhaps it was this curiosity on the part of the Sovereign which caused the tomb to be again violated. We arrived in time to see the coffin, which had been also opened, but was now closed. In removing the principal slab of black marble placed over this coffin, the workmen had broken it near the corner, and masons were repairing it when we came to the spot. The coffin, mean- while, was exposed to view : it was covered STOCKHOLM. 71 with crimson velvet, and adorned with gold chap. fringe. We observed that it was still in as per- < — /—' feet preservation as when the burial took place ; the fringe being so strong, that we had difficulty in pulling off a few threads to bear away as a memorial. Some of the party present com- plained of an unpleasant odour coming from this coffin ; but we considered it as imaginary, the sepulchre having been some time open, and the coffin carefully closed immediately after the King's visit. Ridderholm Church is the regal coemetery of the Kings of Sweden. All the Knights of the order of Seraphim are also buried here ; and many of the principal families of Stockholm have their vaults in this church. We waited upon our Minister soon after our internip- retum to the Capital, and received from him amity sub- the intelligence of the unpleasant state of affairs twee'tfE>fg. between our country and Sweden, which seemed ^^wtLl^ likely to end in a war. This, of course, pre- vented our appearance at Court ; but, in lieu of a presentation to his Majesty, he proposed taking us to the Society, and introducing us ciub called there to the different ambassadors, nobles, and officers of distinction, which constitute its mem- bers. This Club is the greatest resource a stranger in this country can possibly enjoy : it is regulated upon the best principles, and kept H STOCKHOLM. ^^^^' in the most perfect order. Its meetings arc ^— V ' held in one of the grandest edifices in Stockholm, fronting the water, and commanding a noble prospect of the principal buildings of the city. Being conducted thither, we entered a suite of magnificent apartments, elegantly furnished, and in all respects remarkable for the neatness and propriety everywhere displayed. One room is appropriated to reading: and here all the principal Gazettes published in Europe, together with all sorts of periodical works, French, Ger- man, Danish, and Dutch Papers, are found lying upon the tables, for general use. There is, moreover, a secretaire, fitted up with all sorts of conveniences for writing. Every evening, all these apartments are lighted up with wax can- dles. In the reading-room, the most perfect silence prevails ; and in a chamber adjoining, there are couches for repose. Beyond this is the ball-room ; and farther on are separate rooms for billiards, cards, and for eating. In the ball- room are suspended the printed Rules of the Society, in the French and Swedish languages. Strangers are permitted to enjoy all tlie privi- leges of the club during two months; but if they remain longer in Stockholm, they must be presented a second time and become members, or be excluded. Every member subscribes II. STOCKHOLM. 73 twelve rix-dollars annually to the fund. The chat dinners and suppers here are excellent, every thing being cheap and good, and the expense small. A dinner, without wine, costs only six- teen-pence ^w^/w/i; and, until lately, the price was lower. The servants of the Society speak French, German, and Swedish; and are all clad in the livery of the club. There is, morever, always in waiting, a Directeur, or Maitre d' hotel, who superintends all minor affairs, attends at and directs the order and serving of the dinners, and collects the payment due from the several guests. The apartments remain open during the whole day. We have seldom enjoyed a more pleasing relaxation, or met with more agreeable company than we found here. Having several friends with whom we used to associate at the Society \ we came daily to this place; and, in fact, there is no place in Europe where foreigners engaged in travel will meet with better company, more polished manners, or less restraint. Add to this the luxury of being, for once at least in Scandinavia, in an assembly where smoking and spitting are not allowed. (1) In this number were, the celebrated Brougham ; Acerbi, the Lap' land traveller ; Mr. now Sir Charles Stewart ; the Rev. Mr. £ent, and Mr. Jarrett, whom we had before seen in Norway ,• and Mr. Bellotti, II. 74 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. The most perfect order prevails in all the apart- ments ; every one being at liberty to enter, or retire without form, as he pleases'. Some per- sons belonging to the Court, who were proposed as members, had been rejected in the ballot ; at which the King was much displeased, and endeavoured, as it was said, to withdraw the courtiers from their attendance. If this were true, it had not produced the desired effect; for the numbers, instead of being diminished, had lately been considerably increased ; the first families in Stockholm being the most regular visitants. As in all large cities, the traveller must expect to meet with less of the characteristic hospitality of the Swedes in Stockholm, than in other parts of the kingdom^; and it is here, in particular, that his reception will a good deal depend upon the relative state of politics with regard to his own country. We found our situation somewhat altered, since our last visit, by the degree of coolness which had sprung up (1) An establishment of this nature, under the name of •' The United Service Club," lias been lately founded in London, which seems to be conducted upon a similar plan. (2) " Plus on s'approche de la capitate, moins on apercoit cette respec- table bonhomie, qui caracterise generalcment le paysan Suedois des pro- vinces." rromcnade en Suede, par De Lalochnaye, torn. I. p. 62. Brunswick, 1801. STOCKHOLM. 75 between the Court and our Minister. Neither chap. is there much in the place itself to afford > r—-^- instruction or amusement. Excepting the great square of Nordermalm, the streets, though of very- considerable length, are neither broad nor hand- some. There is no foot pavement ; and the shops are everywhere wretched. The houses are lofty, and they are all white-washed. The Resem- T- » it not essential to the due representation of the manners and customs of the inhabitants. The style of a Scandinavian dinner we have before described, in our account of Norway; for in this respect there is not much difference between the two countries. No person, on any account, is permitted to touch, or offer to his neighbour at table, the contents of the dishes that are placed before him. They are all removed, and brought round to the guests one after another in a regular order ; consequently the business of dinner lasts two or three hours, — the longer, the more consistent with a splendid entertain- ment. Before sitting down, when the company are all stationed in their places at the board, a pause of total silence ensues ; and this, after continuing for the space of a minute, is inter- rupted by a bow from the host, which is the signal for every one to become seated. The mistress of the house is conducted from the drawing-room by the person of the greatest rank present ; the rest of the gentlemen each taking a lady, as with us. The ceremony of (2) See Vol. X. of these Travels, p. 109. Octavo Edit, 80 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. II. Interior of the Houses. the whet before dinner, which is universally practised over all the North of Europe, takes place in an adjoining room, a few minutes before dinner is announced : there the company eat caviare, turnip-radish, raw turnip or carrot, or a bit of some salted fish, and take a dram of brandy, by way of provoking an appetite ; and this they do as heartily as if they were making a meal ; — like the inhabitants of some part of Scotland, who swallow a hot sea-gull, or kiddy- wake, full offish-oil, for the same purpose. The master and mistress of a family have no parti- cular place assigned them at their own table, but mix with their guests, and generally sit at one of the sides. This custom, perhaps, is an imitation of French manners. When the com- pany rise after dinner, the same pause and silence ensues as before ; after which, the bow being again made, the gentlemen salute the hand or cheek of the mistress of the house, and shake hands with the master. These cus- toms and ceremonies are the same everywhere, whether in the mansions of the nobles, or the dwellings of more private individuals. The principal article of furniture in every apartment is a stove, which is generally large, and covered with Dutch tiles. In the houses of the great, these stoves are sometimes formed STOCKHOLM. 81 so as to represent the pedestal of a column, and chap. then they often support a statue ; or if not so '- . > ornamented, they reach to the ceiling of the room. Where the stove and flues are solely formed of iron, and not properly encased with stone, tiles, or stucco, a close disagreeable smell is caused in all the rooms : to obviate this, the inhabitants frequently burn perfumes, or place a scented pot pourri upon the stoves. The most insignificant article of their furniture cuts a more imposing figure in English houses — where, however, it is never publickly exhibited — namely, the bed ; this is generally small, uncomfortable, and more like a mere couch for a drawing-room than for a place of repose at night. In the lodgings of single men it is always seen, as a dirty and unpleasant spectacle ; not made up during the first half of the day, and offensive to more than one of the senses during the other. The windows of the rooms, in the best houses, are doubly glazed ; and hung with long shreds of coarse gauze, by way of representing what they are not — that is to say, curtains; being about a quarter of a yard wide, and, of course, merely ornamental. The walls are hung with painted canvas, sometimes in imitation of India paper; at others, in panels, after the French taste. The floors are also painted. VOL. xr. G 82 STOCKHOLM. ^fri^^' "^^^ prohibition respecting the use of coffee was at this time so strictly observed in Stockholm, Coffee pro- , . , p .,. . - hibited. that in genteel lamilies it was never presented : in some of the inns they offered it to strangers in a contraband way. We have seen even the most gay and dissipated of the young Siuedes re- fuse to drink it, when invited by a company of foreigners who have had it before them. The use of tea had been substituted in its place. This beverage the Sivedes call Te-JVatn, or Tea- IVater ; a very appropriate name for the infu- sion, as they prepare it ; for, in general, that which they offer under this name is nothing more than warm water served in small tea-cups. Anecdotes Soou after the prohibition respectinoj coffee of the . ^ . r o King. had been issued, his Majesty's own valet de chamhre, a man of tried fidelity and very amiable character, either through some inadvertence on the part of his servants, or a momentary thought- lessness in himself, having invited a party to visit him at Drottningholm, was known to have violated the prohibition; coffee having been served upon that occasion. The next morning, one of the attendants, from a desire to super- sede the valet in his place, and actuated by envy at the confidence reposed in him by his royal master, informed his Majesty of the transaction. The King took no notice of it at the time ; but STOCKHOLM. 83 II. when his valet came to undress him, he said, chap. " Is it true that you gave coffee to a party which visited you from Stockholm, yesterday evening." " It is but too true, sire," said the valet, '^ and I saw the extent of my transgression in the moment it was committed." " Well," said his Majesty, " go now to the Intendantof the Pohce, and tell him what you have done, and pay the penalty ' ; and then come back to me." — When the valet returned, and the King found that his orders had been obeyed, he sent for the informer, and thus addressed him : " My valet confesses he has been guilty of violating the prohibition with regard to coffee, as you told me he had done ; and he has paid the penalty for so doing. It is therefore only necessary for me to add, that in future I shall have no further occasion for your services." Another circumstance also occurred, which placed the character of Gustavus the Fourth in a very amiable light ; — and we can vouch for the truth of both of them. A Swedish Colonel, by an accidental fire which consumed his house, lost the whole of his pro- perty. Some time after, a lottery was set on foot by his friends, to reimburse him. In the (1) One rix-doUar for every cup of coffee used. G 1 84 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, opening of this business, a letter arrived from ' — ^/— ' Pomerania, inclosing one hundred and fifty rix- dollars, without the name of any donor, but with a short note, requesting that the Colonel would remember the " broke7i punch-bowl" It was a long time before he could unravel this mystery ; but at last he recollected that, many years before, being in a tavern where there was a great concourse of people and much rejoicing, a female servant dropped from her hands a large China punch-bowl full of punch. Her mistress, in violent anger, threatened her with instant dismissal, and that she should be sent to prison if she did not make good the loss : upon which, the Colonel interceded in behalf of the poor girl, and himself paid for the damage which had been sustained. This curious anecdote becoming the subject of conversation in Stockholm, at length reached the ears of the King. Gustavus was much pleased with it, and sent a present of one thousand rix-dollars, with this message : " I am aware that the Colonel's friends have instituted a lottery upon his account. It is prohibited, by the laws, to undertake any lottery, without pre- vious permission from the Master of the Police. Tell the Colonel I know that officer ; that he is an humane and polite man, not likely to refuse a reasonable request : it is my wish that the Colonel STOCKHOLM. 85 should ask his permission for the lottery, that I may be enabled to bear a part in it." We have the more readily inserted these traits in the character of the reigning monarch, because the anecdotes related of him, in general, were neither numerous nor interesting. Having no favourite, and relying altogether upon his own judgment, which however was very inca- pable of guiding him, it was not easy to pene- trate the reserve that shrouded his private life from observation. The few things that had transpired afforded a favourable view of his dis- position. From his earliest boyhood he was little disposed to familiarity with any one. When only eight years of age, he attended Gustavus the Third to a grand Council. Upon this occasion, stepping before his father as he advanced to the regal chair, and placing himself upon it, he re- peated, with affected gravity, a passage from one of the Swedish tragedies — '' Let us sit on the throne of our ancestors" The King, instead of being pleased with his son's humour, seemed rather piqued ; and abruptly handing him down, said, ** Come, come, young usurper ! there will be a more proper season for these sentiments, when I am gone 1" With regard to other stories circulated in Stockholm, respecting either the young Sovereign CHAP. II. 86 ' STOCKHOLM. ^^j^^* or his fair consort, as it was impossible to give ' — . — ' credit to them, so it will not be necessary to relate them. The general tenor of all of them was to represent the King as a haughty, impe- rious, but benevolent man, destitute of sound judgment and literary talents ; without any love of the Fine Arts, but desirous of enforcing strict obedience to the laws, both by precept and ex- ample : and the Queen, as a giddy cheerful romp, more disposed towards laughter than serious reflection, who would prefer a game at blind- man's buff to any State ceremony, however splendid the situation she might be called upon to fill. Probable Wc met with a bookseller in Stockholm who contents of , , the Chests assurcd US — and we saw no reason to doubt the ^" "' truth of what he said — that he had often been employed by the late King, Gustavus the Third, as his amanuensis. He declared that he assisted that monarch in arranging and in copying many of the manuscripts now deposited at Upsala under such strict injunctions of their being kept secret until the time arrives for opening the chests con- taining them '. He seemed well acquainted with the nature of these manuscripts; and, as his character is highly respectable, and the informa- (l) See the former Chapter, p. 19. STOCKHOLM. 87 tion he afforded was given without the least chap. solicitation on our part, it may perhaps be worth '- y * attending to. The most important part of these papers, he said, as written by Gustavus the Third, contains the History of his own Times ; com- posed with a depth of political knowledge, and most profound reflection, such as might be ex- pected from his uncommon talents and observa- tion. This History, together with the State Papers necessary for its illustration, probably make up the principal part of this mysterious deposit, which has excited so much curiosity. The state of literature in Sweden has been less state of promising since the death of Linnceus than that of any other country in Europe. In the sciences, however. Chemistry, in spite of every obstacle to which it has been opposed, in a country wanting many of the conveniences necessary for its pro- gress, and all the patronage essential to its en- couragement, has made rapid advances". The chemical discoveries of the Swedes, in all their Universities % redound greatly to their honour. (2) Witness the surprising talents of ^crxf/mjf; himself a host, filling all Europe with admiration of his great abilities, and gratitude for the importance and profundity of his researches. Witness also the discove- ries made by his pupil, Arfuedson. Not to omit a tribute due to the names of Eheberg of Uj)sala, Gahn of Fahlun, Hisinger, Hielm of Stock' holm, and many others. (3) The name of the University oi Abo would hardly have been known in the rest of Europe, but for the chemical discoveries of Gadolin. 88 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. II. V. Yet the science of Mineralogy y connected as it is with Chemistry, is hardly anywhere at a lower ebb than in Sweden : and Geology may be con- sidered as not having yet been introduced into that country ; since we cannot bestow the name of Geology upon those testimonies of its presence which the Swedes sometimes exhibit under the names of Geological Cabinets. Botany, more- over, seemed to us to be fast declining ; as if all its blossoms had drooped and died with its great master. Other branches of knowledge appeared to be involved in the same fate. History, Me- taphysics, Laws, Languages, Music, the Belles Lettres, were only known as so many appella- tions to which there was nothing applicable. Deplorable Thc Fiuc Arts, oucc flourishing in this metropolis, orthV°° languished for want of encouragement. Add to Country. ^^ ^^^^ ^ gloomy prospect in the State, seeming to foretell the bursting of a storm, which was gathering fast around the throne ; public finances annihilated; national credit extinct; taxes ac- cumulating ; agriculture neglected ; manufac- tures ruined ; insurrections ripe in every quar- ter ; the poor oppressed and murmuring ; the liberty of the press banished ; projects, the most absurd, bursting, like bubbles, as fast as they were formed — such was, at this moment, the abject and deplorable state of this land of STOCKHOLM. 89 heroism, honesty, and benevolence. It seemed to every reflecting mind as if Sweden awaited one of those tremendous moral revolutions, which, by tearing to atoms the constitution of the country, offers, amidst its ruins, the mate- rials of a more solid structure. The necessity of convoking the Diet was becoming every day more and more apparent ; yet the courtiers, twelve or thirteen of whom surrounded the throne, being averse from such a measure, as justly alarmed at the consequences of an inquiry into the state of public affairs, were using all their influence to prevent it, by persuading the King to disregard the agitation which was evi- dently gathering force in every quarter of his kingdom. Such was the abject state of the paper currency, that Bank-notes were in circu- lation of the nominal value of eight-pence, English ; but which were considered as literally worth nothing ; no one being willing to take them. The commerce of the country, of course, experienced a lamentable check; and corn, of which the importation annually cost three mil- lions of dollars, became woefully scarce. In this deplorable condition of things, the State candle was burning at both ends. The regula- tions made to prevent the consumption of coffee and of spirits were wholly ineffectual, and con- 90 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. II. v^ stantly evaded. There seemed to be no police whatever ; nor any assize of bread ; the diffe- rence of one half prevailing in the price of the same article in different parts of the same town. One hundred rix-doUars had been paid in the course of the last year for a single load of hay ; peasants being actually compelled to kill their cattle, or to sell them for almost nothing, or to feed them with the straw from the tops of their houses. We often met the young King in his walks through the streets : it was a practice in which he frequently indulged ; going about in the most private manner, wrapped in a drab great coat, and attended only by a single officer, his Master of the Horse. It was understood to be his wish that he should pass without notice, as it would be troublesome to him to be continually bowing to all who might make their obeisance. But as Englishmen, who had experienced in every part of his kingdom the most unbounded hospitality, and were instigated only by a desire to testify the regard we felt for a country of which he was the Sovereign, we could not forego the satisfac- tion of taking off our hats, whenever he ap- proached ; and, notwithstanding what was before urged with regard to his conduct towards our countrymen, it was pleasing to observe that ment. STOCKHOLM. 91 upon these occasions he always returned our chap. salute in the most gracious manner. *■ - y ' The places of Public Amusement in this city i''^"^ o^ are not numerous : the prmcipal are, the Opera Amuse- HousE, already noticed ; the Theatre, or, as it is here called, Dramatis ka ; and the Vauxhall, or Gardens of Promenade. The building of the Opera House took place between the years 1776 and 1782. This edifice is two hundred and ten Sivedish feet in length, by one hundred and fifty in breadth ; and it is fifty-seven feet in height. The front is decorated with columns and pilas- ters of the Corinthian order. It constitutes the chief ornament of the Nordermalm Square, being opposite to the Palace of the Princess Royal, The Theatre is situate in the Old Arsenal : it was built in 1792, upon the demolition of the Theatre Frangaise, which was taken down in the alterations made to lay open the front of the Royal Palace'. In this theatre are represented the Sivedish tragedies, comedies, and farces ; the best of which are quite below mediocrity. In comedy, however, the Swedes have some excel- lent actors. We saw one, whose name we do not recollect, but he reminded us forcibly of our (1) The old French Theatre is now changed into a set of ante-rooms belonging to this building. 92 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, own matchless comedian, John Bannister, whose II. talents will never be forgotten, if unaffected sim- plicity of nature, joined with pathos and energy, be preferable to stage tricks, affectation, and caricatura. This actor was deservedly a great favourite with the Sivedes, whose stiff and serious features, habitually disposed to gravity, relaxed into continual laughter the whole time he re- mained upon the stage. Siveden is not destitute of eminent theatrical writers ; but the principal part of the dramatic works brought forward in this country are translations from the English and French languages : this is always the case with their farces, if they possess the smallest degree of merit. The utmost order prevails in their theatres during the representations : no person moves from his seat, or enters into con- versation with those about him : if the least sound of a voice be heard, except from the stage, a general hissing immediately puts the intruder to silence. Academies. Of the Socictics instituted in Stockholm for the encouragement of Literature, there are five which bear the name of Academies, without including ihe, Patriotic Society ; viz. T\\Q Academy of Sciences ; that of the Belles Lettres, History, and Antiquities ; the Swedish Academy ; the Academy of Painting and Sculpture ; and the Royal Academy of Music. STOCKHOLM. 93 II. Among these, the Academy of Sciences holds chap. the highest rank. It was founded in 1739, by several learned patriots, among whom it is suffi- cient to mention the senator Count Hoepken, Linncsus, and Alstroemer. It has continually in- creased and prospered since its first establish- ment ; having published more than one hundred volumes of Memoirs, Discourses, Eulogies, and Dissertations, all in the Sivedish language. It was not until it had attained the summit of its reputation that it was received under the pro- tection of Government ; which has since al- lowed to it great advantages ; among others, the exclusive right of publishing and distributing almanacks throughout the kingdom, a privilege from which it derives a revenue annually of two thousand rix-dollars. The sciences which chiefly occupy this Academy are, Natural His- tory, Physic, Anatomy, Chemistry, Astronomy, &c. It has a Library, a Cabinet of Natural History, an Observatory, and a Botanic Garden bequeathed to it by Mr, Berguis, the direction of which is entrusted to Mr. Swartz. The Ca- binet of Natural History is under the inspection of Mr. Sparrman, celebrated for his voyages in the South Seas with Captain Cook, and for his African Travels. This Academy has a Presi- dent and two Secretaries. The President is STOCKHOLM. renewed every three months: the two Secre- ; taries are perpetual. The first, Mr. Melander- hielm, directs the Academy, and has the Library under his care : he also conducts the foreign correspondence, and publishes the Memoirs. He lives in the Hotel of the Academy, a large and beautiful building in the centre of the town. In the principal chamber is the bust of its founder, Count Hoepken. The other secretary is Astronomer to the Academy: he lives in the Observatory, situate north of the town. He is employed in the publication of almanacks. Since the establishment of the Academy of Sciences, it has experienced some severe losses in the deaths of Messrs. Pilas, De Geer, Wargen- tin, Baech, Berguis, Scheele, &c. : but it still possesses Mr. Acrel, chief physician ; its Presi- dent, Rosenadler, who has bequeathed to it all his Stvedish books; Admiral Chapman; Baron Alstroemer ; Mr. Engcstroem. ; Baron Hermelin ; Messrs. Geyer and Hjelm, excellent minera- logists and chemists, the latter of whom first obtained Molybdenum in the metallic state ; De Carlson, Paykull, Oedmann, &c. Among the mem- bers of this Academy, it boasts of many cele- brated foreigners: — in Fuj^nce, Lalande, Ex- pilly, Monnct, Keralio, Le Sage, De Morveau^ BoufflerSf &c. — in Spain, Muds; — in Italy, STOCKHOLM. 95 Spallanzani, Verri, Morozzo, Fontaria, &c. — ia chap. Germany, K'dstner, Kolpin, Richter, Forster, M'dller, Achardy Jacquin, Schreber, fVeigel, &c. — in Russia, j/Epinas, Euler, Rumoiuski, Pallas, Kourahin, Raziimoivski, Gallitzin, &c. — in Eng- land, Banks, Pennant, Kiriuan, and Smith; — in Denmark, Niehuhr, Suhm, and Fahl ; — in America, Priestley. The Memoirs of the Aca- demy are translated at Venice into Latin, with the title Analecta Transalpina ; and at Gottingen in Germany, into French, by Mr. Keralio. The principal part of the Library of this Academy was the gift of the President Rosenadler. Among the books are some typographical rarities: a Swedish Bible, with wood-cuts, printed at Up- sala in 1541; the New Testament, in quarto, with wood-cuts, printed at Stockholm in 1549; the first New Testament printed in Siveden, dated Stockholm 1521. Also a rare work (be- cause prohibited), called " The Battles of Duke Charles," or Charles IX. That the proceed- ings of this Academy should be published only in the Sivedish language may be regretted as a real literary loss ; for, as it is observed by a late author who visited this country, ** Si Linnee avoit ecrit dans sa langue, il auroit eu, sans doute, autant de merite ; mais, a coup sur, pas autant de 96 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. celehrid\'' Sparmann added greatly to the ■■y- ' Cabinet of this Academy. He classed it accord- ing to the system of LinncBus ; giving to the Academy, at their sittings, his own descriptions of every thing that was new. Notwithstanding these additions, there is not much in this cabi- net which can be considered either as worth seeing or describing. We visited it ; and were quite struck with its insignificance, and the bad taste shewn in the selection and manner of dis- playing the specimens. Generally, in the first view one has of a Museum of this kind, merely by casting a glance over it, a tolerable correct notion may be formed of the style and character of the exhibition. Under this impression, we did not expect to be very highly gratified, when we observed, upon entering the apartment, some miserable specimens of common Coral, placed in a row upon pedestals of wretched shell-work that would have degraded the China closet of an ignorant old woman. The eye is afterwards caught by a number of glass-cases, containing organic bodies preserved in alcohol, which are, for the most part, reptiles; serpents, lizards, toads, and frogs. Here, among the more re- el) Voyage de deux Fran9ais, torn. II. p. 74 (Note). Paris, 1796. STOCKHOLM. 97 markable rarities, we were shewn the gene- chap. rative organs of the Ostrich and Rhinoceros; the * y ' Draco-volans, not so large as a common Bat; the foetus of a Hottentot; specimens of the Rana typhonia, and Rana paradoxa, from the embryo to the perfect state of the animal ; Lacerta Jlm- hoinensis, considered a great rarity ; Venomous Serpents of America, the Indies, and South Seas, remarkable for the flatness of their heads ; Flying Fishes of the Red Sea ; fVorins, Scorpions, and other insects in great number ; bones, teeth^ &c. of Elephants; and weapons, dresses, and idols of the Islands of Australasia. Around the room are ranged specimens of greater magni- tude; as, the heads of the Cape Buffalo; the Hippopotamus, believed to be the Behemoth of sacred Scripture ; the horns of various animals, some of astonishing size, of the Rein-deer, Elk, &c. The Academy of Belles Lettres was much patronized by Gustavus the Third; who not only endowed it with a fund for prizes, but also for allowing premiums to several of its members. Its province extends to Foreign Literature and Classical Antiquities. The number of its mem- bers is limited to fifty. It was founded in 1753, by Queen Louisa Ulrica. Within these few years, it has lost many men of great merit ; as, Dalin, Lagerbring, D'lhre, Potberg, and De Berch, VOL, XI. H II. 98 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, its secretary is Mr. Tileman, Royal Antiquarian. This Academy has published several volumes of Memoirs, in Swedish. It possesses a beautiful collection of medals. The third, the Swedish Academy, or the Academy of Eighteen, is so called from the number of its members. It was instituted for the culti- vation of the Swedish language, by Gustavus the Third, in 1786. Its particular aim is to culti- vate, to purify, and to enrich the Swedish lan- guage. It composes the eulogies of Kings, noblemen, and private men who have been celebrated. It has published many volumes, on these and other subjects. Gustavus the Third nealected nothino^ that misfht conduce to its welfare. Since the year 1792, it has enjoyed the exclusive privilege of publishing the Swedish Gazette. Its secretary is Mr. Rosenstein, late preceptor of Gustavus the Fourth. It is usual, upon the death of one of its members, to de- liver a funeral oration, illustrating his merits, enumerating his writings, and pronouncing his eulogium. This ceremony is always attended by the Academicians in their full dress, by the members of the Hoyal Family, the Nobles and Gentry of Stockholm, and Foreigners admitted with tickets distributed by the members of the Academy. We were present upon one of these STOCKHOLM. 99 occasions, Saturday, November 23, when the sitting chap. was attended with a great degree of grandeur. ^ % - . ^ It was upon the death of Mr. Stenhammar. We arrived in the evening, and found the chamber of the Academy illuminated by a profusion of candles suspended in heavy chandeliers of cut glass. Upon the right-hand, as we entered, in boxes affixed to the wall, sate the King and his Court; his Majesty, with the male part of his suite of attendants, being in one of the boxes ; and the Duchess of Sudermania, with her maids of honour, in the other. The seats on the oppo- site side were filled with Noblemen, Ambas- sadors, Peeresses, and Foreigners of distinction. In the middle of the assembly, and below the King's box, was a long table, at which were placed the members of the Academy. The rest of the apartment was crowded by military officers and the sons of the principal families of Stockholm, all in full dress or in uniform. The business of the sitting opened with a Congratu- latory Poem addressed to the King, by Mr. Leopold, the most celebrated of the Siuedish Poets, upon the birth of the young Prince; containing, as may be easily supposed, little more than the most extravagant adulation, dis- posed into metre and rhyme. After this had been read, a new member, Count Flemings was H 1 100 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, introduced, to fill the vacancy caused by the ' , ' death of Stenhammar, and to pronounce the funeral oration'. This was read by the Count, from a manuscript, in the Swedish, language, written in a terse and elegant style, with great uniformity of diction, but highly polished ; and it gave general satisfaction. The reading lasted a con- siderable time. When it was over, his Majesty advanced towards the Duchess of Sudermania, and kissed her before all the company present ; a ceremony which, as was before remarked, very generally attends the breaking up of assemblies in Sweden. The Academy of Painting and Sculp- ture was founded in 1735, by Count Tessin. It was particularly protected by Gusiavus the Third, who, in 1783, enlarged and perfected the plan of its establishment by new regulations. It publishes every year an exposition of its works, and distributes prizes among its pupils. Of this Academy, Mr. Fredenheim is President, and (I) Acerbi has mentioned a Swedish bon-mot, upon the occasion of Count Fleming' i being introduced as the new member of the Academy of Eighteen ; which will shew the natural sprightliness and wit of the Swedes, notwithstanding the character of gravity often imputed to them. When the Count took his seat among the Academicians, a wag observed that their number now amounted exactly to 170. ' How so?' it was asked. ' Because,' replied he, ' when a cipher is added to the number seventeen, the amount is )70.' — See Acerbi s Travels, vol. I. p. 170. Lond. 1802. STOCKHOLM. 101 Mr. Pasch Director ; the first, Intendant of the chap. King's Buildings ; the second, Keeper of the ' - , King's Pictures. Among its members, it boasts of the celebrated Sergell, one of the greatest sculptors in Europe. The other most distin- guished members of this Academy are, Mr. Breda, the portrait-painter ; Mr. Tempkman, the Secretary, and Architect to the King; Mr. Mas- relier, Painter to the King ; the famous Despres, scene-painter, &c. ; the two Martins, one a land- scape painter, the other an engraver and painter in water-colours. It has lost Mr. Gillberg, who produced the medals which compose the me- dalUc history of Gustavus the Third. The Royal Academy of Music was founded in 1772, by Gustavus the Third. The Opera is annexed to its establishment. It has produced works of great merit, in poetry, music, and scenery : for example, the famous opera of Gus- tavus Fasa, which was brought out with un- equalled splendour and perfection. The music of its pieces is principally composed by Uttini, an Italian ; and by Fbgler and Kraus, who are Germans. The Patriotic Society began to assemble in 1767, and is numerous as to its members. It is chiefly occupied in the science of Economy, as applied to the kingdom : it publishes annually 102 STOCKHOLM. CHAP jj * works upon this subject. Its principal secretary » ' is Mr, Modur, who may be considered as its founder. This society is truly useful to the Swedish nation. On Saturday, December 7th, the King* left Stockholm, for Upsala, in consequence of a peti- tion he received, as Chancellor of the Univer- sity, from the Students, remonstrating against the conduct of the Rector Magnificus, and demand- ing a legal inquiry into the propriety of the mea- Riots at sures he had thoudit proper to pursue. These Upsala. Oil r young men had celebrated Buonapartes return to Paris ' ; and exhibited an ideot, in solemn pro- cession, dressed and decorated with the uniform, orders, and insignia of Suwarof. The principal magistrate of the University had therefore as- sembled the students, and publickly reproved tJiem for their conduct. In consequence of this disgrace, which they conceived they had not merited, the appeal had been made to the King. Upon receiving this petition, his Majesty imme- diately repaired to Upsala ; and having satisfied himself of the irregular behaviour of a parcel of unruly boys, made it known to the members of the University that he did not deem them any (1) After landing at Frejus, from his Egi/plian expedition. STOCKHOLM. 103 CHAP. II. longer worthy either of his patronage or protec- tion, and accordingly resigned the Chancellor- ship. This was one of those measures, for which, having acted from the impulse of his own heart, and consulting the advice of no one able to guide him, he was universally blamed in Stockholm : it was said, that it might tend to the ruin of the University. To an impartial by- stander, the King's only error seemed to be in having at all noticed an application of so puerile a nature, and one that he might so easily have dismissed, by referring the whole affair to the resident magistrate. But so determined was he to adopt his own judgment in all things, that if any of his Ministers had the reputation of in- fluencing his actions, it was made a sufficient ground for their immediate dismissal. We availed ourselves of his absence, upon Royal this occasion, to pay a visit to the Royal Palace ; strangers not being admitted, during his residence, into the State apartments. This magnificent structure is one of the finest modern edifices of the kind in Europe. It is not so spa- cious as the Royal Palace of Copenhagen, but it has a grander aspect, being upon an eminence which commands all parts of the city. It is of a square form, built four stories high, of brick- work, faced with stucco after the Italian manner. 104 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, and adorned with Grecian pillars and pilas- ^ . y ■■ ters. The interior court measures about eighty- seven paces by seventy-five. A marble stair- case leads to the Chapel, which is surrounded by a gallery, and beautifully decorated. Opposite the Chapel is the Council-chamber, in which we saw two fine portraits by an unknown artist; one of Gustuvus Vasa, executed in black drapery ; and another of Gustavus Adolphus. These are whole lengths; but they have been stretched upon new canvas since they were originally painted, by which means the back-ground has in each instance been enlarged, and the original design of the painter extended with marvellous success ; the harmony and due effect not being at all violated, which is very unusual in such cases. The State apartments consist of a suite of chambers, the first of which, of a square form, is ornamented with gilded columns. Here there are two statues as large as life, by the famous Sergell, who was at this time resident in Stock- holm, afflicted, as it was said, with an incurable melancholy : the one is a statue of JpuIIo, the other of Venus; the head of the latter being a portrait of the Countess Hoepken\ Passing on, (1) Voyage dc Deux Francais, torn. II. p. 54. STOCKHOLM. 105 we entered another grand chamber, furnished chap. with rich French velvet ; in which were six mar- ' r— ble busts, also by Sergell, representing the Family of Gustovus the Third. After this occurred a small Cabinet, serving as a kind of vestibule to the Picture Gallery, containing an antique marble bason, supported by a tripod of lion's feet, and three antient marble statues — Juno, Ptscennius Niger, and ^ Youth with a Swan holding in its beak a serpent. The Picture Gallery contains Picture ,, . , . , . . c y • Gallery. some nne pieces ; but in the examination ot this collection, we thought that the number of copies exceeded the original pictures, in the proportion of ten to one. It was principally formed by Gustavus the Third, during his travels in Italy; and any one who has resided in that country will figure to himself the traffic that would be going on when a young Prince, passionately fond of the arts, and liberal in his disposition, arrived among the Ciceroni and dealers at Rome. It is not wonderful that he should have brought away with him more trash than most of our English nobility journeying as amateurs. In viewing this collection, it was easy to recognise the decisive marks of a system of imposition, and some articles of manufacture, which have continued for many years to exercise the inge- nuity of the Italian artists, and to dupe the 106 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, credulous foreigners by whom they are visited. — w-v^ — ■ In this gallery is a picture of The Death of Adonis, attributed to Vandyke, which is assuredly a copy'. Others said to be by Bassano, which are also copies. One attributed to Leander da Ponte, seemed to be really by that master. A picture of Sigismund, king of Sweden and Poland, on horseback, with a dog, in the manner of Vandyke, is shewn as a picture painted by Rubens, Vandyke, and Sneyders : it was bought at a common post- house, for a single ducat. Of this picture it is usually said, that the figure of Sigismund is by Vandyke, the horse by Rubens, and the dog by Sneyders. Here are many pleasing and highly- finished Flemish pictures; and among others, some of PFouvermans : also a masterly picture by Rembrandt, of A Philosopher reading. A Butcher cutting up an ox j said to be by Teniers ; doubt- ful. The Family of Rubens, by Vandyke. Be- sides these, are works attributed to Poussin, Berghem, Holbein, Titian, Laifranc, and Simon da Pesaro, which it would be tedious to enumerate. In the same gallery, moreover, are thirteen antique marble statues, some of which may justly rank among the finest reliques of antient (l) The Authors of the Voyage de Deux Francais ascribe this picture to Le Maine. See torn. II. \). 55. STOCKHOLM. 107 art. In other parts of this stately palace are chap. many other pictures and statues : among the ^. — , — ' latter, a small statue of j4 cumbent Fmvn, one of the finest works of SergelL We were con- Private Ca- binet of ducted from this Gallery to the private apart- cusiavus r , TP-- -, 1 • , T • • ^''^ Third. ments oi the Kmg, and much mterested m view- ing the elegant suite of small rooms in which Gustavus the Third exercised a taste of which he was vain, in shewing how much it was possible to contrive within a narrow compass. This was what he used to call his Multum in parvo. Master of a palace vast enough to accommodate all the Sovereigns in Europe, he would creep into closets, in order to convince his friends how snug, convenient, and withal how elegant, a room might be made, in which the head of a tall man would touch the ceiling, and his arms, when extended, the side walls. It was with this view he used to retire to his little chambers in the Opera House, where he would frequently lodge ; quitting a palace like Hadrians Villa, to dwell in Diogenes tub. At the end of a series of such small cabinets which were once occu- pied by him in this palace, we were shewn an elegant boudoir, or closet for writing ; the table being raised, and adapted to a rich couch sur- rounding the apartment. The doors of all the rooms leading to this boudoir being placed in a 108 STOCKHOLM. straight line, and glazed, enabled the King, as he sat, to view the whole extent of these cham- bers, and the persons of all who might be in them, even when the doors were shut. Igneous Basalt, from the hottom of a Copper Furnace in Siberia. The original Specimen in the possession of the King of Srceden. CHAP. III. STOCKHOLM. Public Women — Mildness of the Season — Vauxhall — JVatclimen — Balls of the Society — Manners of the Inhabitants — Public Executions — Artists — Royal Pa- laces — Views of Stockholm — Description of Drott- ningholm — Lake Moelar — Sudden Change induced by the coming of Winter — Frozen Game— Population-— State 110 8 T O C K H O L M. Mildness of the Season, Vftuxhall. State of Trade — Boot and Shoe Market — Cabinet of Models — College of Mines — Igneous Basalt — yJpparel worn by Charles the Twelfth when he luas assassinated — Cast of that King's face after death — Royal Library — Codex Aureus — Codex Giganteus — Curious Manu- script Code of Medicine — Typographical Rarities — Collection of Original Designs — Royal Museum — Observations on the Literature of Sweden — Literary Productions — Establishments — Gymnasia — Committee for Public Education — Chirurgical and Medical Col- leges' — Remarks on the Swedish Poetry — List of Poetical Works — Operas — Dramas — Comedies — Works in the higher order of Literature. T. HE streets of Stockholm are not paved for foot- passengers ; neither do they swarm with prosti- tutes, like the public streets of London. Women of this description are, however, not the les& numerous here, for being less public in their appearance. During the month of November we were surprised at the mildness of the tempe- rature ; the thermometer of Fahrenheit, towards the latter end of the month, varying from 40 to 44 degrees, when we had expected that we should have been going about in sledges upon the snow. We went to what are called the fauxhall Gardens, upon Sunday, November 3 7, after visiting the Theatre, which we found more than usually dull. These gardens have but little resemblance to those in England, whence STOCKHOLM. Ill their name has been borrowed : a few rows of ^?jj^- trees, and a narrow room for walking or dancing, >- ^ about eighty yards in length, make up the whole. This room is lighted by lustres of cut glass. In a gallery upon the left was a band of musicians, who played during the evening, from six to ten, when a trumpet sounded for the company to disperse. The principal part of the persons present were women of the class before mentioned : the company, consequently, with the exception of several officers of the army, being of the lower orders. We were a good deal amused by the grotesque Watchmen, appearance of the watchmen, in the streets at night. Their dress consists entirely of the skins of animals ; and they walk in pairs, carry- ing in their hands a curious instrument for seizing culprits who may endeavour to make their escape from them. It is so contrived as to shut fast about the neck, being applied below the back part of the head ; and becoming tighter, the more a person struggles to get free. When once, therefore, this instrument is fixed, the prisoner is sure to remain quiet, through fear of being choked : afterwards, it opens with a spring. Perhaps this portable trap, or thief- collar, might be made useful in our own country, to aid the apprehension of midnight robbers by 112 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, the police of our metropolis : and we are quite J sure, that it is more wanted in London than in ■V— Stockholm, where all the watchmen have to do, is, to carry about their rattle-spikes, with these instruments, calling the hour in the same dismal ditty which is heard all over Sweden^ — Klockan ar tie slagen ! — Fran eld, och brand, Och fienden's hand, Bevara, O Gud ! den stad och land ! — Klockan ar tie slagen ! As a contrast to the scene exhibited by their Vauxhall — where, however, there is nothing of rudeness or disorder — a stranger finds in the Balls of balls of the Society the utmost degree of ele- gance and the most polished manners. We accompanied Baron Oxenstierna, with Messrs. jicerbi and Bellotti, and our friends Messrs. Kent and Jarrett, to one of those balls. The pre- ceding day, November 25, had been a great day at Court, and most of the principal personages (1) The author finds this preserved in the MS. Journal of his frienP Dr. Fiott Lee. It is thus, when literally translated : The clock has struck ten ! — From fire, and burning [fire-brand], And from the enemies' hand, Save, O God ! this town and land ! — Tlie clock has struck ten ! the Society. STOCKHOLM. 113 were present upon this occasion. We were chap, much struck with the magnificence of the ' r— ' assembly. The dancing began with quadrilles ; after which the company joined in what they called the long dance ; that is to say, one of our English country-dances : the whole was then concluded with a waltz, when they all adjourned to the supper-rooms. There were three rooms for supper ; two ball-rooms ; and two other apartments for cards — a very fav^ourite amuse- ment with all the Swedes. This entertainment lasted until near five o'clock in the following: morning. From all that we had seen of Siveden, we found much more to admire than to disapprove, and very little to censure : the generality of Englishmen visiting the country will probably coincide in this opinion. The more we became Mannersof acquainted with the inhabitants, the better we biJant"^^' were pleased with them. There are few places where the traveller will find a greater facility of intimate intercourse with the different famihes than in Stockholm : for although the hospitality he may experience be not of that unbounded nature which distinguishes the natives at a distance from the capital, it is on this account less oppressive, and more according to the rules of refinement. The time of paying and receiving VOL. XI. I ecutions. 114 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, visits is in the eveninsj : it bearins about five III. . o'clock. Having been once introduced, no invi- tation is afterwards necessary. As no visits are made in a morning, every one makes his appear- ance dressed for the evening parties. They occur in several houses, at each of which it is usual to stay half or three quarters of an hour. At these parties the amusements are, music, singing, cards, and dancing. The conversation is always lively, and generally remarkable for the good humour and mirth which is excited. Public Ex- Public executions, always rare in the pro- vinces, are not common in the capital. During our residence in Stockholm, an event of this kind took place. Two malefactors, condemned for forging the paper-money, were hanged. The concourse of people, to see these men executed, exceeded any we had ever observed elsewhere, upon a similar occasion. For some hours before the sentence of the law was enforced, the streets of the city leading to the place of execution were full of passengers, moving towards the spot. This is situate in a forest, about three English miles from Stockholm. The lower part of the gibbet was surrounded by a circular wall, concealing the executioners from view, and leaving only the top of the gallows visible. About nine o'clock in the morninar the two STOCKHOLM. 115 culprits were conducted from their prison to chap. this place. The rocks and hills around were - covered with spectators, and the throng in the road was so great that carriages could not ap- proach. The two malefactors, after being allowed to halt (as is usual in such cases) at a small cabaret, to drink a glass of wine, were brought to the outside of the circular wall at the foot of the gibbet. Two ropes appeared above this wall, hanging from the beam. At the door which opened into the interior area, the secre- tary of the police read to the two criminals the sentence which had been pronounced against them ; after which they were ushered in. About five minutes had elapsed, after their entrance, when the ropes began to be in motion. The executioner at the same time made his appear- ance, having ascended a ladder placed against the beam of the gibbet. Immediately one of the criminals was drawn up by a rope fastened round his waist, and exposed to view, with his hands bound behind him, his eyes covered, and his head and legs hanging down. A short rope was fastened to his neck, with a loop, which the executioner attaclied to an iron hook in the beam ; and then, letting go the rope by which he had been drawn up, and placing his foot upon the criminal's head, his neck was instantly I 2 IH) STOCKHOLM. ^m^* b^'o^^"- The other malefactor suffered in the "•• ■»■' ' same way. These unfortunate men were remarkably well dressed, and seemed to have paid an attention to their persons which is very remarkable at such an awful moment. One of them had served as a serjeant in the provincial cavalry, of which the Duke of Sudermania was colonel. His melancholy fate seemed to interest and affect the spectators, many of whom were in tears. As he was drawn up, his voice was heard uttering, several times, these words : — " Gud bevara min sjal ! min sjal !" " God save my soul ! my soul !" We remained in Stockholm during a conside- rable part of the months of November and De- cembery having no reason to complain either of the climate or of the inhabitants. Indeed, when we considered the latitude of the place, it seemed as if winter had postponed its annual visit. ArUbts. In a former volume we mentioned some of the artists of this city. Towards the end of November we were occupied in renewing our visits to them, and also in inspecting the works of others. A painter, Mr. Breda, late pupil of Sir Joshua Reynokls, was engaged in painting a whole-length ])ortrait of the King, who sate to III. STOCKHOLM. ., l\y him every day. This portrait was a very fine chap. one, and a striking likeness of his Majesty. Mr. Breda had a valuable cabinet of pictures of the old Masters, which had been formed by his father. At an engraver's of the name of Martin, brother of the landscape-painter of that name, whom we before mentioned, we procured many views of the mines and of the city, some of which have been engraved for this work. We visited that eccentric genius, Despres, a painter brought from Italy by the late King ; and saw several fine pictures, the works of his hand. Being admitted into the workshop of the cele- brated Sergell, we saw the colossal bronze statue of Gusiavus the Third, ordered by the citizens of Stockholm, for a pedestal of polished porphyry, which was already placed upon the Quay, a little to the east of the Palace. Sergell is con- sidered as second only to Canova, in the art of sculpture. This bronze statue represents the King as a pedestrian figure, dressed in a long mantle, in the act of haranguing his troops. It is eleven feet high. The right-hand is raised and extended, holding an olive-branch. The modelling cost 10,000 rix-dollars; the casting and metal, 20,000. We saw a valuable collec- tion of designs, books, and casts, at the house 118 STOCKHOLM. CHAR III. Royal Palaces. Views of Stockholm. oiMasrelier, whose own drawings are deservedly in high estimation. Upon the 28th of November we were invited by Baron Oocenstierna to a dinner, at which we met all our English friends. In the evening. Signer Acerbi, who was present, amused the company by the exhibition of his musical talents; performing upon the harpsi- chord a great variety of national airs, to which, with surprising facility, he adapted the most skilful and pleasing variations. Upon Friday the 6th of December, we set out to visit Drottningholm, one of the royal palaces in the neighbourhood. The name of this place, when translated, signifies The Queens Island : it is situate in an island upon the borders of the Lake Moelar, about six English miles from Stock- holm. As a place of summer residence, nothing can be more delightful. There are two other palaces belonging to the King in the environs — Gripsholm and Stromsholm ; but this by far ex- ceeds the others in beauty, and has generally been preferred by the Royal Family. The view of Stockholm from the bridge, in going to Drdtt- ningholm, is the best : and if external appear- ance alone were to be relied on, this might be deemed the most magnificent city in the world. But the efiect produced is not to be described STOCKHOLM. 119 in words : the aid of the painter is here wanted ' . chap. "White edifices, consisting of public and private -^ .- v -> palaces, churches, and other buildings, rising from an expanse of waters, produce an eifect of incomparable grandeur. The approach to Drutt- pescrip- 7iingholm is by a floating-bridge, seven hundred nrbtming- feet in length. This bridge, they say, was finished in twenty-two days ; and cost five thousand rix-dollars : it is constructed entirely of wood. The palace is a handsome stuccoed building, roofed with copper, with side wings ; and has at either extremity a pavilion, sur- mounted by a dome, one of which is the chapel. The length of the whole building seemed to be about forty yards. We went first into the chapel, which is small, and perfectly simple. Then we took a walk round the gardens, which we found barbarously laid out, in the old style, with shorn trees and clipped hedges. We were conducted to a Theatre formed in this wretched (1) Tliere cannot be a better subject for a Panorama than a View of Stockholm, connected as the different objects are with many interesting events in History, If the ingenious artist, to whom the public has been indebted for so many excellent pictures of this kind, should pursue the hint here suggested, he will probably select, for his point of view, the little hill upon which the Observatory stands, or else the tower o{ St. Ca- therine's Church ; whence the eye commands, not only the whole of this remarkable city, intersected with all its bays, creeks, and harbours, but also the numerous little islands, with all the principal squares, streets, palaces, churches, and country-seats. 120 STOCKHOLM. taste, by means of avenues. We soon saw enough to convince us that nature had done every thing for Druttningholm, and man worse than nothing. In the reign of Gustavus the Third this place partook largely of the splendour that characterized his reign : the sum of money ex- pended in its decorations v^^as enormous. Its interior exhibits a very different aspect now, from its appearance then. The Library and some of the rooms are worth seeing ; but, upon the whole, there was nothing to detain us long. A noble statue of Neptune, in bronze, upon the border of the lake and in front of the Palace, has been disposed so as to produce a very striking effect. It is a common thing to decry works of this kind, as they are generally seen in public gardens — leaden Mercuries, spouting dol- phins, and dancing Cupids; but the appearance of this fine statue, extending its arm over waters connected with the ocean, and exhibiting a masterly style of sculpture, is truly majestic. All the bronze figures exhibited here were taken at Prague, in the Thirty-years' war. Upon a vase may bo observed the cipher of Ferdinand the Second. These works are, for the most part, in the style of the Florentine School, in which the German artists used at that time to study. We now returned to the Palace itself, and were con- STOCKHOLM. 121 ducted to the Xz^mn/. Upon the tables we saw ^jV^^* a number of small specimens of sculpture, exe- *" — v — ' cuted at Florence, in gypsous alabaster. Here are also a number of those beautiful terra-cottas commonly called Etruscan vases ; some of these were of great value : and a collection of medals of the highest price, containing those of antient Greece and Rome ; together with a regular series of every thing rare and remarkable in the Swedish coinage. This collection is contained in eight cabinets. Besides a well-chosen collection of books, there are, in this library, Flemish, Dutch, and Italian paintings; and models, in cork, of the antiquities of Italy. There is, moreover, a curious Cabinet of Natural History, which be- longed to the late Queen, and was described by Limu^us. H^ere we saw, among many other curious animals preserved in alcohol, the em- bryo of an elephant ; together with apes, birds, amphibious animals, fishes, insects, and shells, many of the greatest rarity and beauty. There are few things in this palace more worth a stranger's notice than a View of Stockholm by Martin, one of the best works of that artist. The Audience-chamber is filled with allegorical pictures, alluding to the history of Sweden, prin- cipally in the time oi Charles the Eleventh, painted by Ehrenstrale. The Gallery contains a series Mcelar. 122 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, of large pictures, representing the battles of '«— V — Charles the Tenth. The grand staircase is orna- mented with marble statues, all of which are modern. We saw, above stairs, a most excel- lent portrait of Charles the Twelfth; and some good pictures of his most celebrated Generals, by P^aft. Opposite the palace is the Theatre ; and there are several adjoining houses, for the members of the Court in attendance upon the Royal Family. Lake The Lake Mcelar, with its irregular shores and numerous islands, has all the variety and beauty that rocks, woods, and verdant spots without great height can give ; and the views towards Stockholm, especially if seen from the water, are singularly pleasing. The immediate boundaries of the water are generally rocks of gneiss, and the shores consequently bold and denuded. The trees are chiefly firs ; but birch, alder, and oak, are not unfrequent. The approach to Stockholm was described in a former Volume, both from our own testimony, and also from the MS. Journal of the late Rev. E. V. BlomJield\ as affording no idea of the entrance to a great capital : but if it be approached from the side of Dr'uttningholm, or from the Glass-ivorks, no city (1) See Vol. IX. p. \S5. of these Travels. STOCKHOLM. 123 in Europe can pretend to vie with it :— it seems ^"/i^' a Cyclopean heap of the most nobl6 structures ; palaces and churches all piled one above ano- ther ; and the whole floating, as it were, upon the broad bosom of the deep. This magnificent scene is further enlivened and rendered more enchanting by the appearance of vessels of all sizes ; some sailing, others riding at their an- chorage amidst the rocks and groves, or beneath the very windows of those lofty buildings. Nor does this prospect become less delightful when the lake and the sea is frozen ; because then they are covered by sledges of all kinds, and exhibit one of the gayest scenes imaginable. The coming of winter opens for the Swedes, as among the Norwegians, the heyday of the year. When the snow has fallen, every body is in motion, and the most lively intercourse prevails : business seems to awake as from a slumber, and all is cheerfulness and industry. The return of this winterly festival was first announced to us by a custom which reminded us of good old times in England: parties of boys, attended by bands of music, came to sing carols at our door. This began with the month of December. Fahrenheit's thermometer was at 28° upon the second day of the month ; but it was not until the 8th that the mercury remained steadily below the freezing 124 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, point. After the I2th, however, it was observed v- — V ' every day to fall gradually lower : the air was then clear and dry, and we felt none of that chilliness which arises from a damp atmosphere when freezing is about to take place. Frozen ^g goon as thc frost had fairly set in, Game of all Game. "^ sorts became abundant, and was seen upon stalls in the principal streets. This being frozen, the poulterers are under no apprehension of its be- coming stale. The heaps of curious birds, in their beautiful plumage, afforded to us a very interesting sight. As the frost had commenced earlier in the more northern districts, a short time only elapsed before we saw immense sledges arrive, bringing every species of wild- fowl, and from the most distant provinces, piled in heaps, like so many stones. We sent the skins of many of them to England: and a visit to the Game-stalls, as to a cabinet of natural history, became to us a pleasing amusement. The prices in the beginning of December, for Game and other articles, were as follow : A Cock of the Wood (Telrao Urogallus) - - U dollar. Grouse the bi'ace 1 3 ditto. A bird called Hjarpe (Tetrao Bonasia) - - - \s. Sd. Erig. The beautiful Snow-Riupa (Tetrao Lagopus) each 2^. ditto. 'i'urkeys _.-_. each 4 rixdollars. A Goose 2 ditto. Hares - each 1^. 4d. Eng. Tullets each 2^. 8f/f. ditto. STOCKHOLM. 125 Other wild-fowl, &c. were in proportion. These ^^j^^' prices appeared to us to be very high, considering ' -' v * the abundance of Game everywhere displayed ; and it was expected they would not be lowered during the present month. The inns in Stockholm are very dear, and very bad. The best plan is, to hire lodgings ; but for these, if tolerably neat, a traveller will have to pay two dollars a day ; besides one dollar a day for fuel, which till lately was never made an article of charge. For breakfast of tea and bread and butter, the price is half-a-doUar each person ; and two dollars a head are demanded for the most common dinner, not including wine. In reading a list of all the tradesmen and arti- ficers in Stockholm^ a stranger might hastily con- clude that a greal deal of business and many manufactures were going on. The same opinion might be formed by visiting the ^arcAaTz^e, situate in the great market-place, south of the Palace, between one and two o'clock. Here the throng is so great, that it is difficult to force a way through the crowd. The number of inhabitants Population, in the whole city is estimated at something less than the population of the city of Bristol: it amounts to 72,652 '. In this number there were, (1) See also Thomson's Travels in Sweden, p. 94. Lond. 1813. 126 STOCKHOLM. at this time, thirty-six wig-makers, and only one cutler ! forty-seven vintners, and not a single Trade" chimney-sweepcr ! nineteen coffee-roasters, al- though coffee had been prohibited ! and only nine copper-smiths ! seventy goldsmiths and jewellers, and only four braziers ! one hundred and thirteen keepers of ordinaries, and only one tool-grinder! We could find nothing good that had been manufactured in the country, excepting iron, tar, and gloves. The gloves of Scania are the best in the world ; but all other articles were of inferior quality, unless they had been imported from England, in which case they were con- sidered as contraband, and were sold at immense prices, and in a clandestine manner. The glass- works were all bad : the same may be said of all the works of joiners and cabinet-makers ; cloth, leather, &c. &c. : yet one of the most sin- Boot and gular sights in Stockholm is the boot and shoe Shoe Mar. j^^^j-j^g^ . ^\^ jg ^ buildiug ucar the Palace, to which there is an ascent by a flight of stairs, where ready-made boots and shoes are sold very cheap ; and were it not for the inferiority of the leather, and the negligence shewn in the work, boots are nowhere better made. The astonish- ing quantity exposed for sale in this market is really worth a visit to the place : it is a kind of gallery, filled with stalls, and attended by STOCKHOLM. 127 women. With regard to other articles of trade, chap. the inferiority of the Siuedish workmanship, and "— v ' in many instances the total want of the article itself, is very striking. A whole day may be lost in inquiring for the most common necessaries. Of all things for which a traveller may have need, we thought that furs might be obtained here in the greatest perfection, and at the most reasonable prices ; but even this branch of trade seemed to be almost a monopoly in the hands of the English. The best furs were all imported from England, and came, as it was said, origi- nally from America; consequently the prices were very high, and the articles rare. All optical instruments were the wares of those vagrant Italians from the Milanese territory, whom we have before described as wandering with the proofs of their industry and ingenuity in every part of Europe. It is difficult to reconcile this want of manu- factures with the inventive genius shewn by the Siuedes in one of the most pleasing of the public exhibitions of their capital — that of the Cabinet cabinet of of Models. This cabinet is preserved in an an- ^^°*^^ ^* tient palace, where the courts of justice are now held, near Riddarholm Church. As a repository of the models of all kinds of mechanical con- trivances, it is the most complete collection that 12S STOCKHOLM. is known. We went several times to view it ; and would gladly have brought to England speci- mens of the many useful inventions there shewn '. In this chamber, it is not only the number of the models that strikes the spectator, but their great beauty and the exquisite perfection of the workmanship, added to the neatness with which they are arranged and displayed. Every thing necessary to illustrate the art of agriculture in Siveden may be here studied ; — models of all the ploughs used in all the provinces from Smoland to Lapland; machines for chopping straw, for cutting turf to cover houses, for sawing timber, for tearing up the roots of trees in the forests, and for draining land ; stoves for warming apart- ments, and for drying all sorts of fruit; ma- chines for threshing corn; corn-racks; wind- mills ; pumps ; all sorts of mining apparatus ; fishing-tackle; nets; fire-ladders ; beds and chairs for the sick ; in short, models of almost every mechanical aid requisite for the comforts and necessaries of life, within doors or without. There can be no doubt but that patents would be required for some of them, if they were known in England : and possibly patents may have been (1) Mr. Cripps succctdeil in inircliasing copies of sonic of them ; smli as, a machine upon an improved phm for denclicring land ; and nioJtls of some of the Swcdisli stoves for healing apartments. STOCKHOLM. 120 granted for inventions that were borrowed from ^Sf ^* the models in this chamber. Among them are '' -,- .' models for light-houses, telegraphs, and other methods of making signals. Upon this our second visit to Stockholm, we College of again examined the collection of minerals be- longing to the Crown ; and were much indebted to the celebrated chemist Hjelm, for the readi- ness he always shewed to gratify our curiosity; allowing us to inspect all the produce of the Sivedish mines. The refractory nature of some of the richest iron ores of this country and of Lapland is owing to the presence of several re- markable extraneous bodies ; among which may be mentioned titanium, zircon, and phosphate of lime^. We had made a large collection of these ores, and the nature of them is now well ascer- tained. In the account we gave of our first visit to this collection, a specimen was slightly alluded to, exhibiting a remarkable prismatic configura- tion, taken from the bottom of a furnace in Siberia'. How it was brought to Stockholm we did not learn. Some of the Swedish mineralo- (2) The last was discovered by Dr. Wollaslon, in some of the iron ore which was brought from Lapland. Zircon was discovered in iron ore by Mr. Swadenstierna of Stockholm. {SeeT/iomson's Trav.in Sweden, p. 105. Lund. 1813.) In some of the iron ore of Gellivara, crystals of xircov. might be discerned. (5) See p. 204 of Vol. TX. of these Travels. VOL. XI. K 130 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. III. Igneous Basalt. gists attached more importance to this artificial appearance than we did ; considering it as a satisfactory elucidation of the origin of what is commonly called the basaltic formation by means of igneous fusion. We caused an accurate drawing to be made of it, by Martin, which has been engraved as a Vignette to this Chapter. By this it will appear, that the prismatic form which the mass assumed in cooling after fusion, can hardly be considered as characterized by that regularity of structure which belongs to basalt ; that is to say, to those rocks in which hornblende, forming a predominant ingredient, generally occasions a much nearer approach to crystallization : nor would the subject have been again introduced, were it not for the contending theories which prevail respecting the origin of rocks exhibiting a prismatic structure, and the proofs urged to demonstrate that basalt has sus- tained the igneous fusion \ Persons who main- (1) Some of these proofs, it must be owned, have been strangely de- fective. A very principal one was this — that coal, lying in contact with basalt, had, by the heat of the melted basalt, been converted into coke. It happened to the author to be permitted to examine a series of specimens of this supposed coke : they were preserved in a very celebrated collec- tion, and arranged in a regular order, from the state of the natural and unaltered ;n7-cr)((/, through all the changes which the mineral had been said to have sustained, of incipient and more perfect calcination, until it appeared as a scoriaccous body, deprived, it was maintained, of its bitu- minous and volatile ingredients, ju which stale it w.is denominated coke. To STOCKHOLM. 13l tain this opinion, will find, in this solitary ex- ^Yn^* ample, something calculated to support their ^ ->- ^ favourite hypothesis. The hat and clothes worn by Charles the Twelfth Apparei when he was shot in the trenches before Fre- ^cZ!rieIthe derickshall are preserved in the Arsenal in the wiTen^lfe north suburb, precisely in the state in which ^^ated^^" they were taken from the King's body after his assassination. That he was really assassinated, seems so clear, that it is marvellous any doubt should be entertained as to the fact ; and yet, with a view to ascertain the truth as to the man- ner of his death, every succeeding sovereign has thought it right to open his sepulchre, and to inspect his embalmed remains. The other cu- riosities contained also in the arsenal are, the skin of a horse upon which Gustavus Adolphus rode at the battle of Lutzen; a boat built by Peter the Great at Sardam in Holland, takep by the Swedes while on its way to Petersburgh ; a number of trophies taken by Charles the Twelfth, from the Russians, the Poles, and the Danes ; also To this last substance the author's attention was particularly directed. Being permitted to examine and to analyze it, he found that its scoriaceous and porous texture was entirely owing to a number of little cavities which had been occupied by a granular carbonate of lime ,- a notable quantity of which was still disseminated throughout the mass, but which had under- gone 710 calcinalioit : it effervesced in acids, as usual ; and lime was pre^ cipitated from its solution. K 1 132 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, the dress worn by Gustavus the Third at the time III. *' of his assassination, and his image in wax, which we before noticed'. Our main object, upon this occasion, was to see once more the clothes worn by Charles the Twelfth at the time of his death, as connected with a few observations which we had made respecting that events and which we shall presently state. The coat is a plain blue uniform, with large brass buttons, like that of a common soldier ; the gloves are of buff leather, and reached almost up to the elbow ; the right-hand glove is a good deal stained with bloody and so is a buff belt which he wore round his body. The hat seems to have been slightly grazed by the ball in that part which immediately covered his temple ; but there was nothing in its appearance which could throw any light upon the nature of the wound that was inflicted ; that is to say, whe- ther it had been thus grazed by a ball entering in, or going out. The appearance of the scull, after the King's death, satisfactorily proved that the wound in the temple was made by a (1) See "Vol. IX. p. 191. (2) Mr. Coxc, who mentions this circumstance, considers it as probable that the King, " upon receiving the shot, instantly applied his right hand to the wound in his temple, and then to his sword." — See Trav. into Sweden, p. 352. Lond. 1184. ■j-TWirJa/ n,j,7,\-f,^ri r,-,„j' 7^, . />)y-i h„ rr^r/^jT CAr-^r,^ r^nrinr, STOCKHOLM. 133 ball going out. Was it to be believed that a ball chap. from the enemies' works, at the distance the .. King stood, would have either taken the direc- tion of that by which he was shot, or that it would have passed entirely through the scull on both sides ? Mr. Fredenheim, Knight of the Polar Star, President of the Academy of Painting and Sculpture, distinguished by his travels and his- torical collections, and High Steward of all the Royal Cabinets, had, at this time, the care of the matrice moulded upon the King's face soon after he was killed. Owing to his kindness, and that of Mr. Breda, to whom Gustavus the Fourth came daily to sit for his portrait, permission was ob- tained for us to have a Cast taken from this Cast of the matrice : it is now deposited in the University charies the Library at Cambridge. From the appearance of afwr death. this Cast, all dispute must cease as to the na- ture of the shot which caused the King's death ; which, in the account of that event published by order of the Swedish Government, was said to have been a ball from a falconet ^ Foltaire, also, in his anxiety to do away the imputation that had fallen upon his countryman, Siguier, in- sists upon it that the ball was too large for the ; (:?) See Cuie's Travels into Sweden, p. 557. Land. 1784.—^" A ball from a falconet usually weighs one pound and one eighth, at the le:i5t.' 134 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. III. calibre of a pistol ' ; whereas it is plain that the ^ real shot was a pistol bullet. The appearance of the wound in the temple also shews that it was inflicted by a bullet going out, and slanting upwards, having entered into the lower part of the scull behind : and that the shot was directed by a private hand from behind, and did not come from the enemies' works, is obvious from this circumstance, and from the fact of the King's having drawn his sword half out of its scab- bard, in the agonies of death, to immolate his assassin*. Who can read the conversation which passed between Count Liewen, the King's Page, then upon the spot, and Mr. JVraxally without being convinced that the King was as- sassinated ^ even if this evidence were wanted : (1) " Que Ton considere que la balle qui frappa Charles XII. iie pouvait entrer dans un pistolet, et que Siquier n'aurait pu faire ce coup detestable qu' avec un pistolet cache sous son habit." — Also, in giving the account of the King's death, Voltaire makes the weight of the ball equal to half-a-pound. *' Une balle pesant une demi-livre I'avait atteint a la temple droit." (Euvres de Voltaire, tome VII. Histoirc de Cliarles XII. pp. 280, 285. Geneve, 1 768. (2) " I followed the Officers to the place where the King was killed. The Prince ordered the Generals and Officers who were present to place the body in a litter prepared to convey it to the head- quarters; one-and- twenty soldiers standing around with wax tapers in their iiands. We observed that t!ie King, in the agonies of death, had drawn his sword half out of the S(ahl)ard ; and that tlio hilt was so tightly grasped by the right- hand, as no' to he disengaged witliout difficulty." — See the Account taken from the Xairaliue of Philgren, a Page to the Prince of Hesse, ruho was thnl day in waiting. Coxc's Trav. into Sweden, p. 35'i. Land. 1784. (3) " There are now very few men alive who can speak with so much certainty ai; myself. I was in the camp before Frcdericfcskall j and had the STOCKHOLM. 135 but as it is so nearly connected with a very ^^j^^* important event in history, and serves to confirm ' '-v- > Count Liewens testimony, we have caused an accurate drawing of this Cast to be engraved, in which the nature of the wound in the right temple may be as plainly discerned as if the original had been exposed to view. The same engraving will also serve to exhibit the counte- nance of Charles the Twelfth with much greater accuracy than any other portrait can pretend to: it remained unaltered even in death; and displays, in a very striking manner, the haughti- ness of character for which this hero was so remarkably distinguished. We shall now close our account of Stockholm with some remarks upon the Royal or Public Li- brary, and the actual state of literature in Siveden. For the substance of our information upon the latter subject, we are indebted to the commu- nications made to us by the King's Librarian, Mr. Giorwell. We are the more anxious to oppose Mr. Giorwelts statement to the observa- the honour to serve the King, in quality of Page, on that night when he was killed. I have no doubt that he was assassinated. The night was extremely dark ; and it was almost an impossibility that a ball from the fort could enter his head, at the distance, and on the spot where he stood. I saw the King's body, and am certain the wound in his TEMPLE WAS MADE BY A PISTOL-BULLET." — Count Liewcii's Cotiversation with Mr. IVraxall. See Coxa's Travels, c^c.p.357. 136 STOCKHOLM. ^m^" ^^^"^ ^^ before introduced upon the state of ^ ■ - y '' Sweden and Swedish literature, because, coming from a Sivede, it will shew what their opinions are respecting their own country. This gentle- man drew up for us a Memoir upon the progress and state of Letters and of the Arts, during the reigns of Gustavus the Third and Gustavus the Fourth ; prefacing it, at the same time, with a few remarks upon the state of learning in Sweden at a much earlier period ; — but, of course, we shall only extract from this memoir the principal facts. In his preface to it, the learned author dwells too much upon the importance of the historical ballads of the Scalds, and other of their records called Sagor ; as also upon the Latin Chronicles of the middle ages, and the code of laws extant about the same time in the language of the country, cf which we have hardly now any remnants We shall therefore pass imme- diately to the rest of his observations ; beginning Royal with the Royal Library, from a view of which, perhaps, a better estimate may be made of the encouragement given to literature, than from almost any other document ; because this col- (l) " Entre autres ouv rages de cette periode," observes Mr. Giorwell, " nous en avons un qui a pour litre ' Le Miroir des Rois et des R^gens.' <3'est un vrai tresor de sagesse et politique. II a ete traduit en Latin, et publier par Jean Schrffrrux, h Stockholm, 1669, in folio." STOCKHOLM. 137 III. lection is open to the public, and was formed chap. under the brightest auspices Sweden has yet beheld. It consists of three long galleries in one of the angles of a small court belonging to the Palace, and is certainly the finest literary establishment in all Sweden. It was first appro- priated to public use during the reign of Gustavus ^dolphus. This Library was plundered at the departure of Queen Christiana in l654% and suf- fered from fire during the conflagration of the Palace in 1797. In the reign of Gustavus the Third, it was greatly enriched ; and after his death augmented, by the addition of all his pri- vate library, which was very select, and con- sisted of 14,000 volumes, forming a most valua- ble collection of works in history, politics, and general literature. His library was moreover (2) It is very difficult to obtain any accurate account of the state of Sweden at this period, and of the opportunities of plunder to which the Queen's departure gave rise. Among llie literary losses which the Rnual Library then sustained, it is said that the Codex ^irgenteus, now at Upsala, was one; and that this valuable manuscript was embezzled and carried out of Sweden by I.taac Vossius. The manner of its restoration afterwards was before mentioned. The losses appear to have been owing to the disorder which arose in packing up the articles which the Queen took away with her at her departure ; for it seems, from what Puffendorf has related, that the ornaments of the Coronation of Charles Gustavus were afterwards borrowed. "La Suede se Irouvoit Spuisee ; et la Reinc avoit Jail emballer et transporter en Allemagne la plus grande parlie de$ meubles de la couronne, de sorte qite presque tout ce qui parut dans cette cSrimonie avoit iti emprunte!' — Histoi're de Siiede par Puffendorf, tome II. p. 420. Amst. 1743. 138 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. III. Codex Aureus, Codex Gi- santeiis. rich in manuscripts : it contained all the Sagor, Chronicles, and Diplomas anterior to the reign of Gustavus Vasa, together with many beautiful manuscripts of antient authors and of the middle age. Among the last, the most remarkable is a copy of the Four Gospels in folio, with initial letters in gold ; thence called the Codex Aureus. This manuscript seems to have belonged to some splendid ecclesiastical establishment in Spain : it was purchased in Madrid in 1690, by the learned Sparvenfeldt, Master of the Ceremonies to Charles XI. who travelled, at the expense of that monarch, all over Europe, in search of manu- scripts. His autograph appears upon this manuscript in the following words : *' Pretiosissi- mum hunc Evangeliorum Codicem emi ex famosa ilia Bibliothecd ill"" Marchionis de Liche Mantuce carpent. a. l6gO, d. 8. Jan. Ego Joannes Gabriel Sparvenfeldt nob. SiiecusJ' A very remarkable manuscript preserved in this library is the Codex Giganteus; so called on account of its colossal size. It was taken, among other spoils, from a Benedictine monastery at Prague, during the Thirty-years' war, by Field- marshal Count Konigsmark. It is two Swedish ells in height, and of proportionate breadth. This code is in fact a species of library in itself: it contains, besides the Vulgate, a collection STOCKHOLM. 139 of writings upon the Jewish Antiquities, by chap. Josepkus, Isidorus, &c. Also the Cosines Pragensis ^ . m^m. . Chronicon Bohemia. A learned Hungarian of the name of Dobrowski made a journey to Sweden in 17^1, expressly to examine this codex. Because the volume is terminated by a treatise on magic, ornamented with an illuminated figure of the Devil, several foreigners who have visited this Library, being struck with the enormous size of the volume, and with this singular illu- mination, have agreed in calling it " La Bible du Diable^ and Codex Diaboli."" There is also a most curious manuscript, entitled " Magistri Johannis j4rderum de Slewark, de Arte Physicali et de Cirurgid, quas ego prcedictus Johannes fervente pestilentid, qucp fuit anno .Domino inillesimo cccxLTX. usque annum Domini m. ccccxii. Morem (aut moram) egi apud Newerk, in comitatu Slothingui, et ibidem quamplures de infirmitatibus subscriptis curavi." This manuscript is upon a (1) This manuscript, for particular reasons, is not often shewn to strangers. The Authors of the Voyage de Deux Francois were not allowed to examine it; yet if the account of it which they received from the Abbe Albertrandi, Librarian of the King of Poland, be correct, it may have received the name of " The Devil's Bible " from a very diffe- rent cause : it may have been so called from the confession, " en lettres rouges sur iin fond brun " at the end of the manuscript, of its former diabolical owner. — See the work, above cited, tome II. p. 84. Paris, J796. 140 STOCKHOLM. ^?ri^* vellum-roll of considerable length, divided into > — ,— ^ columns. In these columns are represented the figures of the persons diseased ; and by the side of them a description of the disorder, and the remedy prescribed. There are also anatomical figures for midwifery &c. Considering the date of this work, it is very curious to observe the w^ords " Pro morho qui dicitur''^ »•*****,*, followed by the French name of a disorder which is supposed not to have been known in Europe before the discovery of America. Typogra- Amouo: the tvDOo^raphical rarities of this phicRari- ^., ^ -^^ ^ \ , . , ties. Library, we saw one, m large quarto, with wood-cuts, which would hold a distinguished place in any collection : it has this title — " Speculum Humance Salvationis ;"" being without date or printer's name, or any indication of the place where it was printed. Some have sup- posed that it proceeded from the press of John Coster, ^t Harlem, in 1440: others, that it was printed by John Faust, at Mayence, in 1459. Also, Cicero de Officiis, upon vellum, by Faust and Schoeffer, at Mayence, 1466. The first edi- tion of //omer, at i'7orewce', 1488, in the highest state of preservation, upon paper, with a wide margin. But more valuable than all these is the copy, here preserved, of the identical Vul- gate which belonged to Luther — Bihlia Vet, et STOCKHOLM. 141 Nov. Testmenti; the margin being covered, as well as all other spaces open to his pen, with his own autograph notes. This volume was printed in folio, dit Lyons, 1521. It was found by the Swedes at the capture of JVittenherg. The curious commentaries which Luther has here added, seem to make known the progress of his ideas upon subjects of divinity and ecclesias- tical discipline. By trophies such as these^ taken by the Swedes during the Thirty-years' war, in consequence of the victories won by Gustavus Ad,olj}hus, and by Charles Gustavus, the libraries of Sweden became enriched, as those of Germany, Prussia, and Denmark became impo- verished. But the most precious part of the whole collection is preserved in a small chamber adjoining the Library ; namely, fourteen large Collection of Original volumes, in folio, of Original Designs by the Designs. old Masters, and of every School'. This col- lection was bought by the Senator Count Charles Gustavus de Tessin, during his embassy at Paris, and was presented by that nobleman to King jidolphus Frederic. After the death of his father, Gustavus the Third gave it to the Library, for the use of the State. To this collection is added (1) This valuable collection contains 3025 Designs, distributed accord- ing to the different Schools, in the following order: Florentine 142 STOCKHOLM. ^?ii^" ^^ Historical Catalogue by the Grand-Chan- - y -' cellor. Baron De Sparre, and in his own hand- writing. Almost all these designs are unique. The principal part of those belonging to the Roman School are by the hand of Raphael. From this establishment we cannot separate the Museum, founded by the Duke Regent, in 1792. It contains all the Greek, Roman, and Swedish antiquities which were formerly scat- tered over the kingdom. Some of the finest paintings belonging to the Royal Collection have been added to the Museum ' ; it occupies Royal Museum Florentine School 183 School of Sienna 43 Roman School 406 School of Lombardy 29 Bologna ..517 Milan, Cremona, and other Italian Towns . . 1 <) Venice 15" Genoa, Naples, and Schools of Spain ... 75 Designs of unknown Masters 234 Flemish, Dutch, and German 470 Swedish designs 105 Portraits of celebrated Painters, of the Italian, German, and Flemish Schools .... 83 Drawings of the French School 56(i Various Designs of Antient Masters . . . 138 3025 (I) Among many other remarkable pictures in the Museum, there is one, a Portrait of a IVoman, with n Negro; remarkable for this artifice of the painter, who, to hide the sallowness of complexion in the Lady who sate to him, has introduced the head of the Negro. She would liave appeared as a Mulatto, but for the contrast thus aflbrded. STOCKHOLM. 14 two grand galleries below the Library. The chap. immediate care of the Library was entrusted to < y * Professor Malmstroem ; and the management of the Museum to the Grand Chamberlain, or In- tendant of the Court, Mr. Fredenheim. Besides this library at Stockholm, and that of Drottning- holm, there is also another, belonging to the Crown, at Haga^ extremely select, and com- posed chiefly of scarce books, collected by Count De Creutz, when he was Minister in Spain and afterwards in France. The two libra- ries of Drottningholm and Haga are preserved exactly as they were under Gustavus the Third; and they are independent of the great libraries of the kingdom, of which we have now spoken. The first dawnina: of any national spirit of Observa- ^ '' /■ tions on literature in Siveden does not date earlier than the Litera- the reign of Gustavus Adolphus, in the beginning Sweden. of the seventeenth century : for although Gus- tavus Vasa, in new modelling the State and the Church, had burst the fetters of that liberty of opinion which is essential to the very being of knowledge, yet the religious controversies in which the State was involved arrested the pro- gress of letters almost an entire century. To Gustavus Adolphus it was owing that the Swedes, as a people, first began to feel an emulation of being distinguished in the world of Letters. 144 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. The examples set by this monarch, iu reserving, ^ ■' . as his own share of plunder, all the hterary spoils taken in war, and afterwards presenting them to the literary establishments of his country', was followed by his successors : and it has greatly tended to add to the literary wealth and character of the nation. His ex- tensive knowledge and patronage of learning have never been duly appreciated ; being lost in the splendour of his military achievements. The library at Upsala, according to 0/aus Celsius, owes its origin to Gustavus Adolphus^. The plans devised by that monarch for the advancement of literature in Sweden were adopted and perfected by his daughter, a princess marvellously distin- guished by her talents and love of letters. Christina had no sooner mounted the throne, than she invited to her Court men of genius and high literary character, from other countries. Descartes was one of these : he died at Stockholm. Among her own subjects, she encouraged and rewarded all those who rendered themselves conspicuous by their talents : and in this list was signalized one whom the Swedes consider as (1) IngcnteiiJ auri argentiquc prajdain militibus reliquisset rex; sibi solos reservavit libros, quos sine mora in patriam misit, Upsaliensi Biblio* thecac inserendos." — 01. Cclsii, Hist. Bib. Upsal. p. -1. (2) Ibid. STOCKHOLM. 145 the greatest genius which their country has chap. produced ; namely, Stiernhielm ; known among > -^-' ,^ them as a poet and philosopher of such emi- nence, that they have bestowed upon him the name of Polyhistou. During the wars of Charles the Tenth, Eleventh^ and Twelfth, learning made but little progress in Siueden. Nevertheless, under the special protection of Charles the Eleventh, tlie study of Northern Antiquities and of Natural History became a favourite pursuit among the scholars of the country. Under Frederic the First, a long period of tranquillity and peace with foreign powers afforded opportunities to the national genius to direct its inquiries towards other branches of knowledge. At this time, the pre- vailing taste inclined towards the sciences of Natural History, especially to Mineralogy ; and towards the study of Political Economy. But it was reserved for Adolphus Frederic, or rather for his enlightened spouse, Queen Louisa Ulrica, to protect, encourage, and gather round the throne, philosophers and artists, in all the branches of learning and the Fine Arts. Sweden herself has never produced so many distinguished literary men as beneath the sway of this princess. As the greater part of them were still living under Gustavus the Third, and during his reign some VOL. XI. L J46 STOCKHOLM. c^^P' distinguished dramatic writers, together with V .y ■' several artists, were added to the list, it has been usual to consider them under one point of view, as forming a single epocha, which has been denominated THE Golden Age of THES^yEDISH Augustus. Gustavus the Third inherited from his mother, Louisa Ulrica, that refined taste, and that gene- rosity of soul, which had given life, energy, and capacity to the Swedish genius. Equally illus- trious in political talents and in warlike achieve- ments ; distinguished by his passion for litera- ture and the arts ; by the care which he took to maintain and foster all the establishments necessary for their culture ; by the talents which he displayed in many of his own compo- sitions ; by his seducing eloquence, in which he surpassed all other princes of his time ; he was eminently fitted for the conspicuous station he held, and for becoming the ornament of that age of intellectual improvement in Sweden which his own genius and example had consummated. But, in speaking of the Golden Age of Gustavus the Third, it ought also to be stated, that Siveden had among its nobles many patrons of literature, men of the highest talents, whose zeal and abi- lities greatly tended to accelerate its progress ; to mention in this number only two — Count STOCKHOLM. 147 De Tessin and Count De Hopken ; the first of ^"i\^'' whom combined within himself almost every '^— ^ ' mental accomplishment. In the present state of literature in Sweden, the sciences most cultivated (exclusive of Divi- nity and Law) are, the History of the Kingdom, and the Statistics of its different Provinces ; Natural History, especially Mineralogy, Botany, and Chemistry; also Astronomy, Rural Economy, and Surgery. The field of Belles Lettres has afforded two epic poems, pastorals, satires, some anacreontics, operas, and dramas. With regard to the arts, in Architecture , in Sculpture, Painting, Engraving, and in the art of striking Medals, very considerable progress has been made of late years. The Literary Establish- ments of Sweden have been before meationed : it will not, therefore, be necessary to enumerate them : they consist of Universities, Academies, Societies, public and private Libraries, Cabinets of Natural History, Antiquities, Coins, and other useful institutions. Besides the Univer- sities, there are Literary Societies established in some of the towns of Sweden ; as, for example, the Society of Sciences and Belles Lettres at Gothenburg, founded in 1773. Sweden has also twelve colleges, called Gymnasia; one in each episcopal city : and in all the towns there are L 2 14S STOCKHOLM. CHAP. Public Schools. Some of the Gymnasia have _. their own libraries : and in this number, the library of Linhoeping deserves to be particularly noticed, on account of its valuable manuscripts relating to the history of Siueden. A MiUtary Academy, established in the Koyal Palace at Carlberg, was founded by the Duke Regent in 1792. The youths admitted into this Academy are educated under excellent masters, and, moreover, instructed by Professors, chosen for this purpose, in all the arts and sciences. In the year 1770, a Royal Committee for the guardianship of Public Education was esta- blished : it was charged with the general and immediate inspection of all places and establish- ments for the instruction of youth. It conti- nued in force for about twenty years, when, in 1771, it was suppressed by order oi Gustavus the Third. Great hopes of its revival, under the reigning monarch, were entertained at this time, by those who had the best interests of their country at heart. We were not made acquainted with the reasons for its suppression. \n Stockholm., moreover, besides a Chirurgical Society, there is a Royal College of Medicine, to which are attached a Library, an Anatomical Theatre, and a Lying-in Hospital. The mem- bers of this College give public lectures in STOCKHOLM. 149 Anatomy, Botany, and Pharmacy. In the limits chap. of a work of this kind, it is impossible to enter — v fully into the detail of all the minor establish- ments affecting the general state of knowledge in Sweden. For this reason we have omitted to notice many private cabinets in different parts of the country, although some of them be of considerable importance ; as the collection be- longing to Baron De Sparre, Senator Baron De Ridderstolfe, to the Count Brake, and General Count Horn ; in all of which there are valuable manuscripts. With the slight knowledge that we had of the Remarks Swedish language, we could nevertheless discern Swedish the beauty of the Swedish poetry ; and we shall ^^^^^' add a short account of some poetical and other works : but the poetry is of a peculiar cast. The Sivedish Poets are fond of rhyming in trochaic dissyllables, and of introducing Alexandrines into their compositions. The language is exceedingly soft and harmonious, although not equal in this respect to the language of Finland^ which may be considered as a concentration of pleasing sounds, admirably adapted to poetry, and fuller of vowels than the Italian. That of Sweden is perhaps more dignified when in prose ; but in verse, the measure being so frequently trochaic, is perhaps best suited to convivial songs and 150 STOCKHOLM. CHAP, accompaniments of the dance. It is very easy III. to give an imitation of this trochaic or ballad- metre, with the double rhyme : — Let us drink and merry be, Laughing, singing, dancing : Who so blithe, so gay as we, Now the night's advancing ? All our daily labour done, Set the cans a-clinking : Fill and swill, till morning sun Calls us from our drinking ! Some of our old English ballads were com- posed exactly in the same style. The old song of " Barbara Aliens Cruelty'' is quite in the cha- racter of Siuedisli poetry ' : " In Scarlet towne, where I was borne, There was a fair maid dwellin, Made every youth crye, Well-avvaye ! Her name was Barbara Allen." But the Odes are sometimes written in a much more turgid and pompous manner, upon the most solemn, grave, and even melancholy sub- jects, with long stanzas and Alexandrine lines ; (1) The Reader may compare with it the first stanza of a poem by Professor Franzen of ^Ibo, given in the Appendix : Unga Flicka i din var Bind dig Myrtenkransen D^iisa medaii Dii forniar Siiart ar Dii ur dansen. STOCKHOLM. 151 and of this kind of metre there are many exam- chap. pies among the specimens of early English • poetry. The following list will serve to shew the subjects of the most-admired native com- positions in Sweden. POEMS. 1. " The Passage of the Belt by Charles Gus- List of TAVus (Xaget ofucv 3?crt) :" an heroic poem in twelve ^^^s!^ cantos, by Count De Gyllenborg : also author of '' The Seasons (5lv»tii)ente),'* and of a satire called " My Friends (2)iina 2?anner) ;" works of great merit. 2. "The Harvest (©forbame)," by the nephew of the preceding, Count Oxenstierna ; a pastoral poem, in nine cantos. — This poem is much admired in Stveden. 3. " Swedish Liberty (@t>ett^fa ^i|)Cten) ;" an epic poem, by the late Mr. Daliuf author of the best History of Sweden. 4. " Atis and Camilla (9lti^ oc^ ^amilfa)," by the late Count Creufz. — The object of this poem is to re- present love in the most delicate colours. It is a work of great energy, and full of pleasing but voluptuous descriptions. 5. " The Legacy of a Father to his Children," by Mr. Liljesirule ; a didactic poem. 6. " The Dalecarlians (25alfavtanie)," by the late Mr. Engzell ; a political poem, in praise of the fidelity and courage of the Dalecarlians^ ready to sacrifice them- selves in defence of their Country and for their King. 152 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. III. ' — . — Tragedies. TRAGEDIES. 1. " Obcn," (founder of the kingdom of Sweden), by Mr. Leopold : — beyond all contradiction, the finest work of the kind which the Swedes have. — Leopold is called the Voltaire of Sweden. 2. " (gmie jav(," Grand-Mayor of the Kingdom ; by the Count De Gyllenhorg. 3. " ^liciiatD iUabc," King of Sweden ; who burns, at a festival, the minor kings his vassals, to render him- self despotic ; — by Mr. Adlerbetn. GRAND OPERAS. Operas. 1. " ©UstatJU:^ J^a^a," by the late Mr. Kellgren; con- sidered, not only by the Swedes, but by all the Foreign Ministers resident in the Country, as surpassing, iu magnificence and in the style of its composition, every theatrical work of the kind in Europe. 2. " The Holiday of Sweden (3uea^ •J3c5tib) ;" composed upon the occasion of the erection of the statue of Gustavus Vasa in the Place des Nobles; by Count De Gyllenhorg. MINOR OPERAS. 1. " Opportunity makes the Thief" (Swedish pro- verb — 2ilfallc qiov JjuftJCn) ; by Baron D'Armfeldt, distinguished by the high favour in which he was held by Gustavus the Third, and by the disgrace into M'hich he fell when Duke Charles became Regent. — His having enjoyed the confidence of the former, would sufficient STOCKHOLM. 153 account for the hatred entertained towards him by the CHAP. ^ III. latter. . ^ 2. " The Extravagant Musician (3^ili^if:5Pimnen) ;" a very popular piece ; by Mr. Emvullson ,• also author of another, which has had great success, called " .^V0J10= DRAMAS. 1. " ^\xi ^va()C;" by Gustavus the Third-, who also Dramas. composed another piece, called " 3iatalie Otariefm." — These are much extolled by the Swedes, but have never been printed. 2. " .0efmfclbt ;" by Gustavus the Third. — Helmfeldt was son of a Burgomaster of S/oc^/zo/w, who, after many extraordinary adventures, became one of the greatest Generals of Charles XI. ; and in that state was recognised by his aged father, who believed him dishonoured and dead. 3. " Q^irgCV jatl," Regent of the Kingdom ; by Count De Gyllenhorg. 4. " The Father reconciled {^m ^ov^onabc ^a&ren) ;" by Mr. Lindegren. COMEDIES. 1. *'The New Master (9?i;a ^en'^fapct) ;" by Count Comedies. De Gyllenhorg. 2. "The Officious (^ja^fcn);" by the late Mr. Schroederheim. 3. *' The Boaster" {Captain Puff, or ©tovpvatarcn) ; by the late Mr. Kexel.— This is the best piece belonging to the Sivedish Theatre, in the style of low comedy. 154 STOCKHOLM. CHAP. These are the principal productions of the V V- ■ Swedish Muse, and they are all original compo- sitions. To this list may be added an heroic Drama in prose, composed by Gustavus the Third, entitled " Gustavus Adolphus and Ebba Brahe (@u^taf=^lborp{) od; g66a 23ta^c)." It was performing at Drottningholm, the 11th of Sep- tember 1783, by the Duke Charles, the Princess Royal, and other persons of the highest distinc- tion about the Court. The story upon which this piece turns is founded upon the love felt by the young King, Gustavus jidolphus, for the beau- tiful Ebba Brahe, daughter of a Peer who ranks highest in the order of the Swedish Nobility ; a passion which he sacrificed for the honour of his august family and for the throne of Siueden, ac- cording to the haughty notions of his Court, especially of his mother the Queen Dowager. The piece, characterized by the genius and poli- tical talents of Gustavus the Third, was afterwards put into Swedish verse by Mr. Kellgren, and per- formed for the first time in Stockholm upon the 14th oi January 1788. It may be found printed in the collection of Mr. Kellgrens works. Works in In the higher walks of Literature we should ouier of*"^ now vainly seek for works of much importance. Literature. ^^^^^-^^^ Bishop of jLwwf/, is the author of a History of Gustavus Vasa, and his son Eric XIV. The STOCKHOLM. 155 historical work of Mr. Dalin has been already ^f,f^^' noticed. Tacitus has been translated by Mr. " — ' Steenpiper. The master of the Cathedral School of Stockholm may be considered as an historian of merit : his name is Murrberg : he wrote an account of Christians residence in Stockholm in 1520. Biography has also found an advocate in Mr. Nor din, who has written the Lives of Illustrious Smedes. There are some distinguished men at the University of Abo ; but of these we may speak hereafter. Much may yet be ex- pected from the Swedes; and their literature may revive ; but it must be owned the prospect is a bad one. The spirit of the people remains yet unbroken : but where the liberty of the press is annihilated — and Russia, like one of those moving bogs, of which we read, in Ireland, comes slowly but surely on, threatening to over- whelm the country', and to extinguish all that remains of genius and heroism in the land — he must indeed be sanguine who can hope to see Sweden regenerated and her glory restored. (l) The University of Abo, together with all Finland, has already fallen under the dominion of Russia. CHAP. IV. STOCKHOLM TO ALAND. Characteristical Swedish Exclmnatlon — Departure Jrom Stockholm — Commencement of' the Winter season — Gfisselhamn — Telegraph — Passage-hoat — Geographical Nomenclature — Dangerous situation of the Author and his Companions — Providential escape — Aspect of affairs in landing upon Aland — Fiebbenby — State Messenger of the Court of Russia — Ruins of Castelholm — History of that Fortress — Skuipans — Change in the Manners of the People- — Boriiarsund — Vargatta Sound — Sledge- Travelling — Lie of Vardo — The Party embark across the STOCKHOLM. 157 the Delen for Kumlinge — The Author induced to return to Skarpans — Festivities of Christrnas Eve — Attempt to convey the carriage upon the ice — Sudden storm — Village of Vardo — Interior of an Aland Divelling — Breakfast of the Natives — Extra Post — A turlulent sea frozen in one night — Cause of the rapid change — The Author re- crosses the Bomarsund — Southern Passage to Kumlinge — State of the Delen — Geological features of Aland — ■ Manners of the Alanders in Winter — Number of in- habitants — Means of subsistence — Clerg7/ — Land- measurers — their destructive influence and deprcda- t'fOTlS. Among the peculiarities of national habits which cannot fail to be remarked by a stranger in Siveden, is the universal prevalence of an expres- sion constantly in use, although adapted to a great variety of feelings and circumstances. This expression consists of two monosyllables, charac- Ja sa I pronounced with a strong aspiration upon ^swedul the first, and a lengthened tone upon the second; tiot!""^" varying, however, according to the passion that is to be expressed — Yah so ! It is impossible to give an idea of the innumerable significations to which Yah so I is applied : from the throne to the cottage it constitutes four-fifths of the re- marks made by the Sivedes upon all occasions. Sometimes, when a person is relating a story, it comes out slowly, as a kind of obliging assent to the credit of his narration, and an encourage- I5S DEPARTURE FROM STOCKHOLM. CHAP, ment for him to proceed — Yah so! Yah IV. so And then it is given in a subdued and whining tone : at others, upon suddenly comprehending what was before a paradox, it bursts forth with emphasis — Yah so! !! Again, at other times, it is used as a term of defiance, and with a more guttural sound, upon being menaced — Yach so ! And then it is accompanied by a corresponding swing of the head. Again in rejoinder ; as for example : Quest. Who are they ? Answ. Eng- lishmen. Rejoind. Yah so ! If a .S?f;e6?e were told that his head would be struck off within the next half hour, he would say, beyond doubt, Yah so ! This is not peculiar to the Capital, or to any one of the Provinces, but may be observed alike in all parts of the Country. Wherever a Swede is found, Yah so! is sure to denote his presence. We felt sorry when the time arrived in which it was necessary to bid farewell, not only to Yah so ! under all its multiplied associations, but to the Swedes and to their Country. Being tempted by the hope of overtaking the friends with whom we entered Siueden\ before they should have left Petersburg, we had waited only for the coming of the frost to set out for Russia. (1) Professor ^fa^thus and the Rev. W. Otter, DEPARTURE FROM STOCKHOLM. 159 We left Stockholniy upon wheels, before the snow chap. had fallen, u^^on Saturday, Dec. 14. The mer- ^^— -v— ^ cury in Fahrenheit's thermometer fell this day, from ''""^^ at noon, only four degrees below the freezing ^'''^*^"''"'- point, and it had not been so low during all the month of November. Soon afterwards, how- ever, its descent was, with little variation, pro- gressive. At seven in the evening it fell 21" below freezing. We had bought of Signor Acerhi a very ex- cellent German Bckarde, which that traveller had caused to be constructed in Vienna according to his own directions, and it was provided with many conveniences for travelling. We have given an account of such a vehicle in a former volume ^ We passed the first night at Kragsta. In our way thither, through Ensta Oshy, Hall, and Rilanda, the country was more open than usual, and much cultivated. The roads were rendered as perfect as possible by the frost. According to the custom in Siueden and Rmsiay our postillion drove four horses abreast. We passed several lakes, which were frozen. The next day we journeyed through Svanherga, Stabhy or Staba, and Tresta, to Grissehamn, The cold was now become so piercing, that we could (2) SeeVol. I. p, 16. 100 FROM STOCKHOLM CHAP, see little of the country. At Stala we estimated > — y—^ the temperature at noon : the mercury, by Fahrenheit^ scale, fell fourteen degrees and a half below freezing. Afterwards it became much colder. We did not venture to open a window ; but the vapour of our breath froze into a thick conmence. ^oat of icc UDOU the fflass. Tlic wiutcr had ment of 1 c the Winter now cvidcutly sct in, with considerable severity ; but the atmosphere was clear and dry. The people were all rejoicing at the change ; because this is to them the heyday of the year. The lakes were crowded with boys skaiting, or with peasants pushing before them sledges laden with different articles. Their winter-dress is a sheep- skin coat, worn with the wool towards the body : it is white and clean, and has a neat appearance. Upon their heads they wear handsome caps of dark fur, with crowns of scarlet cloth. Every house that we entered was filled with provisions. The frost preserves all their meat, which is^ therefore, much more wholesome than if it were salted. Even the poorest peasants have a share of luxurious diet at this season of the year. We said to some of them, that it was very cold ; to which they replied, rubbing their hands, and with looks of joy, " Yes, bravely cold — beautiful weather ! Now you may travel as fast as you please!" — Indeed the roads were ren- TO ALAND. 161 dered so smooth and hard, that they seemed ^^^^• like one mass of stone. To give an idea of the ^— -\ — ' severity of the frost, before we arrived at Grisse- hamn, it is only necessary to state, that some Madeira wine, in bottles, in the well of the car- riage, became solid: when we attempted to pour it out, the wine would not flow, but fell, at last, slowly, in successive drops. All our bread was frozen, and could not be cut. We broke it with a hammer, and it glittered, within, like loaf-sugar. We had some cold roasted game, and this cut like a snow-ball. All the furs we could use in the close carriage, with all the windows up, would not protect us ; we seemed to be sitting in the bleak and open air. Over our [.feet we had thick yarn stockings covered by stout leather boots, and over these again were boots made of the hides of rein-deer, with the hair on the outside, and doubly lined with sheep-skin covered with black wool. We had, moreover, fur caps upon our heads, and bear- skin pelisses over our bodies, besides several flannel waistcoats ; and upon our hands, gloves of sheep-skin, covered by double gloves of fur and wool. Yet all these precautions did not protect us from feeling the severity of the wea- ther. The Sivedes told us, and we had reason afterwards to believe the truth of what they said, VOL, XI. M 162 FROM STOCKHOLM CHAP, that we should be less sensible of the action of ' ^— -' the atmosphere if we travelled, as they did, in open carriages. We found the houses in a very different state from that in which we had been accustomed to see them, and carefully guarded from the admission of external air. The win- dows in all the rooms were nailed up, and paper had been pasted over the crevices; yet the natives laughed when we conversed with them about their climate, saying it was nothing to what we should soon experience. In the first stage this day, an iron bolt belong- ing to the carriage snapped like a piece of glass and was broken. This compelled us to proceed to an iron-foundry belonging to a M.x,Arfvedson of Stockholm, situate half-way between Svanberga and Staba. The superintendant of these works told us that a large quantity of bar-iron is manufactured here, which is sent to Stockholm for exportation. He also added, that they sometimes import sea-coal from England, for the use of the foundry. The same level country and richly-cultivated fields appeared the whole way to Tresta, where we crossed a ferry. Here the land wore a more sterile aspect, exhibiting a scene of hills and rocks the whole way to Gru.c. Gr'mehamn. This place consists of nothing '""""■ more than a single post-house, built by Govern- TO ALAND. 163 ment about twenty years ago ; near which is ^^^^• stationed a Telegraph. It serves also to tra- v ,,- * Tellers as an inn, although the worst in all Siveden. There is no situation better adapted for a house of accommodation; but a place more poverty-struck, dirty, cold, or in all respects more wretched, can hardly be con- ceived. It stands upon a rock, close to the mouth of the Gulph of Bothnia. The country around it is low, barren, and full of rocks, with here and there a few stunted trees and shrubs. We were detained at this miserable place, owing to the violence of the wind, which was now stormy. The mariners who conduct pas- sengers over to Ekero would not put off from the shore. During this delay, our situation was rather awkward ; for while the excessive cold- ness of the weather drove us into the only room allowed for shelter, volumes of smoke from some green boughs piled beneath a large open chimney expelled us again into the open air. There was no other fuel to be had, and but little even of this. We set off, therefore, to visit the Telegraph erected near the spot. This machine Telegraph. is not only used for Government despatches ; it gives notice, across the mouth of the Gulph, when travellers arrive — how many horses, and what other necessaries and accommodations M 1 164 FROM STOCKHOLM ^^^^- they may require— what boats will be wanted. ^ V -- The Director, who is the Postmaster, was per- fectly versed in the art of working it : he said he would bespeak a dinner for us on the other side of the water ; and regretted that he had no other provisions himself to offer us. To make him easy, we told him that we were tolerably provided for the day, and that he should share with us a part of our stock. He then permitted us to examine the Telegraph tables ; which, perhaps, are much the same everywhere ; but the simplicity of these struck us as being worth notice. He is able, accord- ing to his own statement, to work 1024 changes ; and conveys intelligence to the distance of five Sivedish miles and a half — nearly forty English. He said that this Telegraph was constructed after an English model. We were quite sur- prised at the facility and speed with which intercourse is carried on. Any message what- ever may be sent by it, and in a few seconds. His book contained the ranks and professions of all travellers likely to arrive ; and among others, the lofty title of "Paul, Emperor of all the Russias,'"' whose coming we thought no Swede would wish to announce. We sent an order by it, to have a dinner prepared in a warm room, and five horses ready for starting. The signs TO ALAND. 165 of communication were all figures, ranged ^^v^* beneath a letter, in this order : <■ -v^ A 1 1 J 2 2 2 3 3 The letter A shews to what table of words or sentences the several signs belong; therefore, when the letter is changed, a new series is referred to : and there may be, of course, as many sets of changes as there are letters in the alphabet. The Director of the machine is placed in a small square room, with a telescope. He amused us by holding a conversation with his distant comrade. Sterile as was the appearance of the land about Grissehamn, it must wear a pleasing aspect in summer, from the number of the inlets of the Gulph intersecting the rocky shore. The opposite coast, when examined with a glass, was at this time glittering with masses of ice beginning to accumulate upon the shore. We were detained the whole of Monday at Grissehamn. On Tuesday, December 17 th, as soon ^ 166 FROM STOCKHOLM ^^Y^' as daylight appeared, we set sail. The wind " — v^ — ' had been gathering- strength the whole of the preceding night ; and we endeavoured, but in BMt!^^' vain, to prevail upon our boatmen to take in a few reefs in the enormous sail with which they ventured forth in their small and rude bark. The carriage had been put on board soon after smiset; and we seated ourselves wirhin it, to avoid as much as possible the piercing nature of the blast. Scarcely had we cleared the rocks around the bay of Gri.ssehamn, when the vessel — gunnelling on her lee-side from the pressure of so much canvas, neither propor- tioned to the boat nor to the weather — shipped a sea that threatened at once to sink her. The effect of this was rendered the more alarming, by the beginning of that horrid state of confu- sion, in which men lose all presence of mind : one pulled at the boom, another let slip a wrong rope, and all management of the boat seemed to be lost. We made our escape from the window of the carriage, by means of the main- stay, which was within reach ; and in another instant, those who could swim would have taken to the water, with a view to reach one of the rocks over which the sea was beating, and thence endeavour to gain the nearest shore. At this dreadful moment, when disorder and tf' TO ALAND. 167 the tempest seemed to govern every thing, the ^"^ ^• man at the hehn, by a daring but dextrous ' — r-^ effort, put the vessel quite about, and saved us all. The management of the sail was then recovered, and, getting under a lee-shore, we rolled back to Grissehamn. The tempest continued all that day, and throughout the entire night. On the following morning, December 18th, it was still more vio- lent, with a contrary wind. The thermometer oi Fahrenheit^ was this morning sixteen degrees and a half below freezing. Upon our return, the poor man's fuel was all consumed. We sent for a load of wood ; and making a large fire, managed to keep his airy chamber heated about up to the freezing point ; living the whole time in a dense atmosphere of smoke, which we endeavoured to avoid by sitting on the floor. Our provisions were all expended, and there was literally nothing to be had upon the spot. We therefore sent our Interpreter, Peter, upon a sledge, along the smaller bays, which were now covered with ice, to search for and purchase (1) We used a thermometer with the centigrade, scale of Celsius ; but as Fahrenhcifs scale, absurd and inconvenient as it is, still obtains a pre- ference in England, we have always adapted our observations to Fahren- keit's scale. 168 FROM STOCKHOLM ^fv ^' pi"ovisions, which were plentiful enough inland. •^ — V — ' He returned at the close of the day, bringing the side of a hog and about thirty eggs. We could not even procure a candle, to cheer the long night in our cold and suffocating apartment ; but by taking out those which were in the lanterns of our carriage, we obviated this inconvenience, and were able to amuse ourselves by writing, while the servants made a fry of the hog and the eggs, to which we invited our host. He told us that the boatmen upon this station are usually dextrous in the management of the wretched skiffs entrusted to their care, and that boats are rarely lost in making the passage. The last accident of this kind happened about a month before. A boat, overladen with forty tons of corn from Upsala, foundered in its pas- o sage to j4Iand^ in a gale of wind ; and one of the o richest farmers in Aland, together with the rest of the crew, were lost. In the year 1791, a Grissehamn boat, returning from Ekero with the mail, but without passengers, was driven, by a a strong westerly wind, into the Baltic, and never heard of afterwards. With these excep- tions, he said, no similar accident had occurred for the last forty years. However this may be, no person, seeing the saucer-like boats in which they make the passage, ballasted only with a TO ALAND. 169 few large and loose stones, and reflecting upon chap. the boisterous weather to which they must be liable in these straits, would think there was much probability of their escape. Perhaps there is no part of the world where boats of the same size carry so much sail ; drawing at the same time so little water, that it is likely the smallest sudden squall will upset them. In the depth of winter, this passage may be made upon the ice ; but it seldom happens that the sea is here sufficiently frozen before the month of February; as it requires many weeks of severe and uninterrupted frost to render it prac- ticable for sledges drawn by horses, or even for hand-sledges. The boats are supplied upon the same plan as the post-horses, by a tax upon the peasants. Every parish is bound to contri- bute for this purpose. There are eighteen boats belonging to the Grissehamn side, and the same number in the Isle of Aland. In the examination of the names of islands and places throughout the curious tract of land and water which intervenes between Siveden and Finland, it will be seen how necessary a know- ledge of the language is to the illustration of the geography and natural history of this region, and to the explanation of some names in our own language. Among the innumerable islets 170 FROM STOCKHOLM ^^^^- with which the mouth of the Gulph of Bothnia is * »■ ' studded, appear as many names terminated phicai No- by u, as in the north of the same Gulph are " terminated by a, pronounced Hke our o ; yet these terminations have very different significa- tions. 0, pronounced hke the French u, is very difficult to an English tongue, and signifies in itself an island; whereas a, as it was before mentioned, answering to the French word eauy sisfnifies luater. Thus, in the names of the little islands in question, Aspd means the Isle of Asp- trees ; 2X^0 Korpo, the Croiv-island ; and Brando, either the Burnt-island, or the island whose shores repel the waves ; for brdnd has two signi- fications, one of which is * to repel' or ' drive back.' There are many other instances. Noto signifies the Isle of Cattle or Pasture. The Isle of Ward'6, pronounced Fardb, means the Island of the Spring; and U to, the Out -is land, or Insula ultima. The Ferro Isles in the North Sea would be written Faro by a Swede; because the name implies Sheep Isles; and with them. Far means ^ a sheep, and o an island.^ Indeed, the name (1) A curious circumstance was mentioned to us in Norway, by Bernard Anker of Christianin, which is foreign to the present subject, but may be here noticed without interrupting the narrative. He told us that (rreiU Brilain holds the Orkney Islands only in paivn. Looking over some old deeds and records belonging to the Danisli Crown at C'fjien- IV. TO ALAND. 171 occurs thus written. Faro, in the Chart of a ^^l^^- groupe of Isles south-west of ^bo. In the north of Ireland, Fair Head has doubtless the same signification, being so called from the sheep there pastured. Dec. 19. — This morning the Gulph was still impassable, from the violence of the gale, which was now contrary, the wind being north-east by east. Snow had fallen during the night. The mercury in Fahrenheifs thermometer fell at noon 21° below freezing. Towards night the wind veered to the west. Many persons arrived at Grissehamn, also waiting for a passage. Friday, Dec. 20, proved an eventful day for all of us. It was the sixth day since our arrival at this wretched place ; all of which time we might have spent much more advantageously in Stockholm, without delaying our progress. Early in the morning, before day-light appeared, our mariners, who belonged to Aland, and were impatient to return, came to summon us on Copenhagen, Mr. Anker found that these islands were consigned to England in lieu of a dowry for a Danish Princess married to one of our English Kings, upon condition that these islands should be restored to Denmark whenever the dtlit, for which they were pledged, should be dis- charged. Therefore, as the price of land, and value of money, have undergone such considerable alteration since this happened, it is in the power of Denmarhy for a very small sura, to claim possession of the Orkneys. 172 FROM STOCKHOLM ^ CHAP, board; saying the weather was more mild and " , the wind somewhat favourable, and that they wished to sail with all possible expedition. After what we had before experienced, it was wrong in us to venture a second time without a certainty of a more tranquil sea ; but it was much greater rashness to allow the carriage to be conveyed in the same boat. The Grissehamn o and Aland boats are neither accustomed to the transportation of carriages, nor are they suited to their conveyance. The sight of our vessel, half filled with snow, in which the carriage, propped upon poles, yet rolled about with the slightest motion, reminded us of an old distich, not inapplicable to our present folly, in venturing on board : — *' Seven men of Gotham, Went to sea in a bowl," &c. Dangerous We sct Sail. The morning was dark ; and situation of the Author thc shorc hcrc is so formed, that the appearance compa- of the horizon and of the sea cannot be discerned until the land has been cleared. The sky looked fearfully red towards the east, and as fearfully black towards the ivest, in which quarter the wind was. We expressed our apprehensions to the boatmen ; but they said that within four hours they could take us over, and that the V— TO ALAND. 173 wind would not increase within that time. chap. IV. Scarcely had we cleared the land, when we v«. o beheld a sea at which even our Glanders were appalled : at the same time it came on to blow with great violence, the gale gathering force at every instant. But the storm of wind was nothing, compared to the state of the sea ; which having been agitated for many days, pre- sented to our astonished boatmen mountains of boiling water. Nothing could more effectually convince us of our serious situation, than seeing the consternation of the crew. We begged them to put back, as they had done before. This they confessed they would gladly accede to, but that it was impossible : that all we could now do was, to bear up to windward, in the hope of making one of the Jfland Isles, and avoid being driven into the Baltic. Within ten minutes after our danger became apparent? every hope seemed to vanish. Our Interpreter, as a seaman in the East-India service, had doubled the Cape of Good Hope, and often sailed in storms in the Atlantic Ocean, but he confessed he had never beheld such a sea as was here gathered in the Aland Haf. One of the Alanders, an experienced sailor, took the helm, and made his comrades lower the foresail. The mainsail could not be dispensed with, as we were falling 174 FROM STOCKHOLM CHAP, fagt to leeward ; and without bearing to wind- ward we must inevitably perish. We continued to hifFfrom time to time ; but when " the rising world of waters," in mountain-breakers, threat- ened to overwhelm us, the yells of all our boat- men became a signal to the helmsman to oppose to it the stern of the vessel ; and thus, letting her drive before the sea, to fall off to leeward, being carried into a gulph of foam, which broke over both sides of our boat, and covered us with the waves \ Half drowned and gasping, we saw far behind us, when we were lifted upon the tops of the billows, another boat in equal dis- tress ; and this occasionally disappeared so completely from our view, as to make us beheve she had foundered : but when she hove again in sisfht, she was so far to windward of us that there was not the smallest chance of our being able to reach her by swimming, in case of our being upset : and we afterwards learned, that she had entirely given us over, and had enough to do in baling the water, which filled on her lee-side, to think of rendering us any assistance. The principal part of our distress was attri- buted, by the boatmen, to the having our car- riage on board ; and they reproached us on this (l) Sec the VigvcUc to this Chapter. TO ALAND. 175 account. Every time the vessel heeled, the chap. weight and swing of this vehicle, propped high ' — », — ' in the boat, made her ship more water than she would have done otherwise. We soon came to the resolution of consigning it, with all we had, to the deep, and gave orders to the men to heave it overboard. This Avas attempted ; but they assured us we should sink the vessel in so doing, and abandoned the undertaking. By cutting away, however, the props upon which the car- riage was supported, we contrived to lower it upon the ballast, and the vessel laboured less in consequence. Still, however, the storm in- creased ; and the sea washed over us continually. Huddled together near the stern, we could only trust to Providence, and, in the intervals when the sea left us, watch the countenance of our undaimted helmsman. After all, we knew not ProviJen- how our escape was effected, being quite stu- pified and benumbed by our dreadful situation. All that the author could recollect of the first glimpse of hope was, that, after long struggling in endeavours to recover the vessel's lee-way, the island on which the Aland Telegraph is sta- tioned appeared at a great distance to leeward, under the boom of the mainsail. Soon after- wards, getting another island to windward, the sea was thereby rendered somewhat more 176 CHAP. IV. Aspect of affairs in landing upon yllanil. FROM STOCKHOLM tranquil, and the boatmen set up a shout, saying, " Bra ! Bra ! — Ingen fara ! Det har ingen fara ' ! " After this we sailed through the Sound ^, and close to the shore; but could not land on account of the surf. Having passed these islands, we steered for Eker'o, the sea being much more calm ; and arrived there soon after mid-day. The crew of the other boat met us, and hailed our coming. It consisted of a party with the Ostero- Bothnia mail, and a Siue- dish naval officer, who told us he had no expec- tation that we should have weathered the storm, seeing the manner in which our vessel laboured. His own boat had encountered considerable danger; but it was less burdened, and much more manageable, and had therefore been held in her course, without being driven, as was the case with ours, continually into the trough of the sea. o We had no sooner landed in Aland than every thing wore a new face. The winter had set in, and with great rigour ; the ground was covered with snow, and sledges were already in general use. As our carriage was still upon (1) lira ! 18 an interjection answering to hravi} ! The literal meaninj: fliercfore is, " Jiraio ! Jirtiro ! — No danger ! There is ini danger /" (2) Sec the Char I oC tlic Aland Isles. ^4 GO '^^'i On rim. ^ ^D^-^ is 40 TO ALAND. 177 wheels, we were compelled to take six horses, and with these we proceeded at a tolerable rate. We reached Frehhenby that night. The inhabitants are a stout and hardy race, better clothed, and in all appearance wealthier than the Swedes on the western side of the water. The inns are clean ; and we observed no sym- ptoms of scarcity. It was, to be sure, the season in which provisions are most abundant, having been collected for the winter store ; and we were able to lay in a fresh stock for our own use. We found here Poniac wine and ale, with plenty of cold meat, which the frost preserves. The ferries were all frozen up. We crossed an inlet of the sea on foot, and our heavy carriage was drawn over it upon sledges. Of the state of agriculture, in a country entirely covered with snow, we could not well determine, from our own observations. This island produces but little corn ; consequently, the natives depend chiefly for their means of subsistence upon their fishing excursions. They exchange a small species of herring, called Stromming, with the Siuedes for corn : they also pasture a very considerable quantity of cattle. The land is level, and inclosed in many parts. The trees are small and low, and, at this time, were almost buried in the snow, which covered every thing. VOL. XI. N 178 FROM STOCKHOLM CHAP, jn t}jj3 evening, our inn at Frebbenhy was filled * /■ — with travellers, wrapped in pelisses, and smoking Frebbenhy. ■ -t n \ tobacco. Among others, there arrived irom the State Mes- Finland side a Russian. Colonel Rebinin. with senger of the Court express despatches from the Emperor of Russia of Russia. to the Court of Stockholm. He spent the evenmg with us, and gave us the first specimen of the lofty tone and swaggering airs which so strongly characterize all the agents of the despotic Go- vernment to which he belonged. " I bear," said he, " the commands of the Emperor, my Master, to the King of Siveden.'" He seemed to consider obedience to those commands, of what- ever nature they might be, as a matter of course. As we had not then undergone any Russian dis- cipline, we were not yet tamed into an implicit assent to Russian notions and opinions ; and this minion of tyranny could not avoid noticing the freedom with which, in our conversation, we delivered our sentiments. He spoke much of the tranquillity and happiness of despotic Go- vernments ; and said that Great Britain would be ruined for want of rigour. Above all things that had tended to lower our country in the eyes of other nations, he considered the Expedition to Holland as the principal. He called it puerile and disgraceful ; and maintained (with a degree of warmth that shewed he was more interested TO ALAND. 179 in it than as a mere topic of discourse) that it ^"^^• had exposed England to the ridicule of the '■■ > — ■»' world. At last, it came out that he had served in person upon that occasion, when our alhes, the Russians, were roughly handled ; all of which he imputed (to use one of his mildest expres- sions) ** to the imbeciUity of our Commander-in- Chief." The only English officer of whom he spoke in terms of any approbation, was General Abercromhie. And as the anecdotes which he related pass current at the Court of Petersburg^ we shall mention one ; omitting the terms of contumely in which, according to his account, persons of the highest distinction in our army are always spoken of at that Court. " The Russians,'' said he, " occupied the centre of the allied armies. Upon one occasion, they received orders from the English head-quarters to attack the French at nine o'clock on the fol- lowing morning ; and were told that the English in the right wing were to second this operation. The attack was made, and the French were re- pulsed ; the Russians afterwards waiting the promised aid of the English troops, which did not arrive. Couriers were accordingly des- patched, right and left, to bring up the English army. At this juncture, the French, having received reinforcements, renewed the engage- N2 180 FROM STOCKHOLM CHAP, ment, and repeatedly attacked the Russians with ^ »■ ' fresh troops. From nine in the morning until four in the afternoon the Russian army was thus exposed, and suffered severely. At four o'clock. General Ahercromhie arrived with the troops under his command, fought with his wonted bravery, and repulsed the enemy : then going up to the Russian General, he burst into tears, saying, " You must think me a poltroon and a traitor; but, by my grey hairs and by these tears, I declare I was kept in ignorance of your intended attack, and had to assemble and to rally my men after your messengers brought me the intelligence." We have inserted this as a specimen, because it came fresh from the Russian Cabinet ; sup- pressing other equally /<7fr and candid represen- tations, which we also heard, and which were bandied about, to the disadvantage of our coun- trymen at the Court of Paul. The want of success in Holland was imputed by all the Rus- sian staff, who were present, to the inefficiency of the English in military tactics. They affirmed that England had no land troops ; that the dis- play of English infantry was a wretched farce ; and that the officers were worse than children. Colonel Rehinin, in whom this language and these sentiments were but the echoes of the IV. TO ALAND. 181 Russia7i Government, considered the truth of chap, his assertions as proved by the very different success of the Russians vv^hen in Italy. *' In Holland" said he, " we had the best troops from the Emperor's dominions — the grenadiers ; all of whom were veterans, and every soldier was a hero. Those sent to lialy were the refuse of the army; and with these Suwarof almost wrought a miracle. Depend upon it, whenever Russia is called upon to act in concert with an English army, the remembrance of the treat- ment she experienced in Holland will, at least, make her cautiousM" The next day, Saturday, Dec. 2 1 , after our carriage had passed the ice piece-meal, it was put together again ; and we set out with six horses from Frehbenby, about ten o'clock. The roads were well tracked, but our wheels could hardly be made to turn round. We passed through forests and a level country to Enkarby, where we changed horses ; and proceeded to Haraldsby, passing a ferry about a quarter of a mile from the latter place. Here, finding the (l) Russia has since shewn her caution, and redeemed this pledge. But it is grateful to reflect upon the lesson which the subsequent victories of Great Britain have taught to the caution of the Russians ; who, in the triumphant march of our heroes to Paris, followed in the rear of our army, as mere loolcers-on ; not having contributed, in the smallest degree, to Ihe glorious issue of our contest with Prance. 182 FROM STOCKHOLM CasleUiolm. CHAP, rooms clean, and comfortable in their accommo- - — , — • dations, we halted. Our host brought some excellent Po7z■ ^ afterwards, when their services were most wanted. The fact is, that the same persons who would venture through the most turbulent seas in the dangerous storms to which the mouth of the Gulf of Bothnia is liable, and in boats which are any thing but sea-worthy, are often cowards upon the ice ; and perhaps for this reason, that the skill and dexterity which enable them to encounter winds and waves are of no avail here. We now directed our icy pilgrimage towards Mushaga, by an eastern instead of a southern course ,- our seal-hunters taking the lead with their iron-shod pikes, and often leading us a weary circuit, to avoid the openings and hazard- ous places of thin ice, by which we were com- pelled to deviate from the direct line of our march. The pikes used to ascertain the safety Safety- 01 a passenger are about six feet m length, having at the lower extremity an iron spike with a sharp and strong hook. The spike is used to try the thickness of the ice. If, after two or three stabs with this iron spike, the water do not spout up, the ice will bear a horse ; and if it do not rise after a single blow, but appears only after a second stroke, it is con- 222 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, CHAP, sidered as fit to support a man. The hook ym ii.y- > attached to this spike is for the purpose of dragging out the bodies of those who are un- fortunate enough to shp through the crevices, or fall into the holes, which are deceitfully covered with a thin icy superficies. These ac- cidents are generally owing to the snow, which, by covering such places, prevents a person from being aware of the sudden danger he may encounter from a neglect of sounding pften with his pike. Every individual of our party was provided with one of these safety-pikes; al- though the chief use of them is for those who precede and act as pioneers, who plunge their pikes into the ice incessantly, at every step, in order to make the way sure. If the foremost man give an alarm, the rest of the party fall back, and disperse as quickly as possible ; taking care not to collect together upon one spot. We had many of these alarms ; and our weary walk continued throughout the whole day a journey of painful suspense and apprehension, never free from danger ; being often farthest from the land when we appeared to be the nearest to it, in consequence of the circuitous deviations we were compelled to make, in order to obtain a footing. About half after two o'clock P.M. we were within sight of Mushaga ,- but the TO KUMLINGE. 223 difficulty of reaching the shore increased as we chap. approached. Presently we could discern the ■„, ^. < figures of several of the natives, standing upon a high coast among the rocks, regarding our move- ments with an earnest attention. We soon found the reason of the interest we had excited : the ice, as we advanced, appeared almost every- where open ; and became so thin, that our pikes brought up water at every stroke. It certainly was not a moment for much ceremony, and the guides used none ; for the seal-hunters falling The au- , , . , ... , ^_ thor de- back w]tn precipitation, the yargatta peasants senedby dispersed also, followed by the interpreter, who, in spite of all my remonstrances, left me in this terrible juncture, to shift for myself. In such a situation, the presence of any one, it is true, could only serve to increase the danger ; and for a moment I was almost bewildered. To turn back again, and retrace our former foot- steps, at this late hour of the day, over fields of ice extending nearly thirty English miles, would require more strength than I could then muster, exhausted as I was already by fatigue. I saw no alternative but that of persevering, at all hazards, another quarter of a mile ; and slowly ventured on towards Mushaga, sometimes work- ing my way nearly a mile in order to gain an approach of twenty yards. At every stroke of 224 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, CHAP, my pike, the water gushed through the orifice '^— s ' it made ; until the ice beginning to bend with my weight, I was afraid to use it. By perse- verance, however, I had gained a very near approach to the land, which gave me spirits and courage: the ice became stronger — then weaker : at last I reached the rocks, covered also with ice ; and, in my eagerness to climb their slippery surfaces, sustained many severe falls, one of which brought me headlong back again upon the sea. The people collected on the shore now descended to my assistance; and the guides who had deserted me, ashamed of being left behind by a stranger^ after various attempts, following my footsteps, arrived also dXMushaga. Here we found the sea quite open ; the ice only extending an English mile from the shore : some other expedient, therefore, to reach the open water with a boat was now become ne- cessary. We entered a miserable cottage. The scene of human woe which was here presented, per- haps never had its equal. We found within, a wretched family ; amongst whom were seven Ravages of childrcu afHictcd with the putrid small-pox, in pox. ""* ' one close hovel ; — the eldest, a daughter, dead of the disorder; and the forlorn parents weeping for the inevitable fate of those, their little ones, who- Arrival at Mushaga. TO KUMLINGE. 225 still survived. The diet of these poor creatures chap. consisted of raw salted fish, first steeped in sea- '.. y .^ water, and then frozen. To heighten the cala- mity of this heart-rending spectacle, not a ray of comfort or of hope could be administered ; nothing could be done for them — nor did they ask for any thing. It was a sight to move the most obdurate; and the impression made in viewing it will never be forgotten. Amongst a few other dwellings, at some dis- tance from this scene of sorrow, we hired four peasants, who engaged to work-out a boat that was lying fast locked in the ice among the rocks. A most curious undertaking ensued — that of forcing a passage for this boat through the mile Mode of of ice, into the open sea. It seemed to require pasTag^e* nothing less than the labours of Hercules to effect IheTc? this ; but the promise of high reward, and the sight of two bottles of vile SwedishhvdiUdiY , which the Interpreter took care to display to great ad- vantage, wrought marvellously in our favour. The sail belonging to this boat, when produced, was found to be frozen into a solid sheet of ice ; but, after much labour, this was hoisted : and a plank being fastened with nails along the ribs of the boat, to prevent her staving, she was laid upon her side; and we all got into her, except two of the men, who remained upon the ice, VOL. XI. Q 226 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, holding by her bows. In this manner she scudded before the wind, upon the surface of the thin and rotten ice ; which soon giving way to the superincumbent weight, we sunk, boat and all, into the water ; the two peasants, without, remaining suspended, one at the prow, the other at the stern. Now began a part of the opera- tion, in which these men, accustomed to such trials, shew very considerable dexterity. By giving their vessel a swinging motion, alternately raising and depressing the prow as it was forced by the sail upon the ice, they continually suc- ceeded in breaking a way through it ; and pene- trated along the channel, thus formed, towards the open sea, by a tedious but sure progress of about 400 yards in an hour. Fortunately, a fair wind blew with great violence ; which aided the undertaking more than any thing else ; the mea being nearly exhausted before the passage was thoroughly effected. In more severe weather, they find this method of working through the ice impracticable, because it freezes together instantly as fast as it is broken, and they remain locked in ; by which means the party of peasants who had conducted some travellers to Kumlinge, three years before, as was related, were set fast in the ice at a great distance from the shore, and nearly starved to death. The ice, before we TO KUMLINGE. 227 got clear of it, was nearl}'' six inches thick ; and chap. it was to our little stock of brandy that we at- < — ,«— / tributed our success. The poor men engaged in working the boat were so overcome by their excessive labour, that without frequent draughts of their favourite liquor they would have given up the undertaking as hopeless. At last, we reached the open sea : and here Remart- . , n • -I 1 ^^'^ effect a violent tempest oi wmd and snow came upon of snow us : and the sudden effect of the snow mingling sea-water. with the sea-water, now cooled nearly to the point of its congelation, was most striking. The water became turbid, like milk turning to curd : pieces of ice soon made their appearance, and were heard rattling against the prow and sides of the vessel. The old exclamation of " Gud bevaraf' once more gave its warning, that things were not quite as could be wished by our Swedish steersman : we saw evidently, that if we did- not quickly reach Saltunga, we should be in the situation, already related, of the poor mariners in their return from Kumlinge. The change was so rapid, as the snow continued falling, that when we were drawing near to the Sattunga shore,we found ourselves sailing through immense moving slabs of ice ; which were driven with such force against each other, that the noise of their striking together, all around us^ Q 2 228 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, CHAP, ^yg^g \[^Q ii^Q sound of a hundred drums beating : ^ — V — ' our boat was driven against them with a degree of violence that made us apprehensive of her splitting. At about two miles distance, we descried a boat, already beginning to be set fast, and working its way as we had done before, in a part of the sea where these floating masses had already fixed themselves into a compact state. The water itself seemed full of snow ; but this appearance always takes place whenever its par- ticles are beginning to congeal. That the whole passage would speedily become frozen, was very evident ; and this change actually took place in the course of the night. An open channel ad- mitted us within 250 yards of the Island of Sattunga : and here the ice was strong enough to bear the weight of our boatmen, while they drew their vessel out of the water, and laid her up in a snug birth for the night. This birth, at any other time, would have been considered by me as an object of great curiosity : it was a Natural bcautiful cavc of ice, hung with pendent icicles cave of ice. and spangling crystal gems — the palace of the se(tls, and temple of their amours: but, under the pressure of fatigue and cold and hunger, all its beauties could not detain me, even for an instant. The boatmen had already quitted it : and having cast my eye over the arched roof and TO KUMLINGE. 229 sides of this natural wonder, I followed them, chap. V. through a forest, to the Village of Sattunga; ^- » which consists of a small church, and some better- '^^"""^°- conditioned cottages than it is usual to see in these islands. As soon as we arrived, we found here both the Eastern and JVestern Post, waiting for a passage ; also about fifty sailors, together with other persons whose ships had been frozen in, waiting to get to Finland upon the ice. A party of Russian Gentlemen set out, as soon as we arrived, in the hope of profiting by the pas- sage we had forced through the ice on the Mushaga shore, to get to that island : what suc- cess they met with I did not learn : night was already set in, and it would require time to get our boat out again. One of them gave up his apartment to me, upon leaving Sattunga ; saying, he had found it cleanly and comfortable. The poor hostess, who conducted me into this cham- ber, was as proud of receiving strangers beneath her roof as if kings were come to visit her. Turning up her beds, she exclaimed, '*Look here ! you shall sleep as well in my house as if you were in Stockholm : we have no such things as lice or bugs here." My last loaf of bread was frozen, and as hard as stone; but this good woman boiled it in milk ; and I never tasted a more delicious meal than from the bowl 230 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, containing the porridge which she thus prepared and placed before me. Intending to set out early in the morning, I wished to pay for my night's accommodation and excellent fare, and for this purpose offered money to the mistress of the house ; who, with great simplicity, but earnest- ness of manner, said, " Alas, Sir ! give me some- thing better than money. I have had a pain in my head upwards of forty years, and sometimes it brings on fits : leave me but a charm to cure this disorder, and I shall bless you till I die !" Whether she believed that loaf-sugar would act as a charm ov not, was uncertain; but so com- pletely unknown to her did this substance appear, that having begged a lump of it, she stuck it up among her rarities, in a cupboard ; not to be used, but exhibited as a curiosity. The Island of Sattunga occupies a central point amidst the innumerable rocks and inlets \yhich almost fill the mouth of the Gulph of Bothnia. It lies to the south of the Delen, or Delet, between Fard'6 and Kumlinge, and exactly midway between the coast of Sweden and ^bo uoTofxhc ^"^ Finland^ The natives are fishermen and seal- tmm''' hunters : they arc the best-looking, and most robust, of all the islanders. During the summer o fl) Si'c the Cliart. Sec also iTermd'uis " Charia cifvcr Abo och lijorncborgs Ilofdingcdouie." titockhohn, 1799. TO KUMLINGE. 231 they carry on a trade with Stockholm in fish. My chap. host and his son arrived late in the evening — ' » — ' men really of gigantic stature. " My boys and I," said the father, pointing to the athletic figures of these fine young men, " Mrill accompany you to-morrow to Kumlinge : and you will not be deserted by us, upon the ice, as you were by a parcel of striplings from Fargatta and Bergo. We have heard of all your adventures in going to Mushaga : there will be an end of such risks now : trust only to our guidance, and we will take care of you." These men were Sivedes ; as are, properly speaking, the inhabitants of all the Jlland Isles, and of the islands upon the coast of Finland. Formerly, these islands were inhabi- ted by Finland corsairs ; to put an end to whose piratical depredations, the Swedes possessed them selves not only of the Isles, but also of the Finland coast as far eastward as Pe^er^^wro-, and northward as far as -Gamla Carlehy. The country at this mo- ment, from Gamla Carlehy to Bjorneborg, was en- tirely inhabited by Sivedes; speaking, of course, the Swedish language. From Bjorneborg, as far as Abo, the people are a mixed race of Sivedes and Finlanders. We found the Swedish language in use as far as Varssala : but when we reached Varssala, it was no longer understood. The real Finlanders. Finlanders, that is to say, the genuine remnant 232 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, of the original colony, which yet preserves its antient customs and language in their pure and unmixed state, dwell in the interior eastern dis- trict of Finland: they inhabit the province of Tavaslehus ^ndi Savolax,^. wild and watery region, covered with numberless lakes and most exten- sive forests, and peopled by a race of men who are considered by all their neighbours as the hardiest of all the Northern tribes. In the severest winters, these men perform astonishing journeys ; going about with their bosoms bare, exposed to all the inclemency of the weather. More barbarous even than the Laplanders, they hold in sovereign contempt all the comforts and luxuries of more refined nations. *' Illis," said Tacitus, speaking of the Fenni, ** ne votq QUI DEM OPUS ESSEX." Unaltered in all the ages that have elapsed since he gave that eloquent description' which no paraphrase can express, we may still say of them, **fennis mira feiii- TAS, FCEDA PAUPERTAS: NON ARMA, NON EQUI, NON PENATES : VICTUI HERBA, VESTITUI PEL- LEs, cuBiLE HUMUS." For all that conccms their early history, and the origin of the Finns, we may in vain ransack the libraries of the world. (1) De Mor. Germ. torn. II. p. 592. Ed. Ernesti. Lips. 1801. V. TO KU ML INGE. 2:yS The Scrictofinni, mentioned by Paulus Diaconus", chap are not, properly speaking, Finns, but their cousin-germans the Laplanders, to whom perhaps the account given of the Fenni, by Tacitus, may, from some of his observations', be rather appli- cable. The true Finns live in houses without chimneys, which are always filled with smoke, and, from various other causes, are black and filthy beyond description. Fortunately, the very nature of this climate is hostile to the great in- crease of vermin ; but such reptiles and revolting insects as are able to withstand its rigours, find themselves as much domesticated among the Finlanders, as are their pigs, poultry, cattle, dogs, and cats ; all of which, together with men. (2) " Huic loco Scrictofenni (sic enim gens ilia nominatur) vicitii sunt. Qui etiam aestatis tempore nivibus non carent: nee aliter fieri potest, quam ut crudis agrestium animantium carnibus vescantur : de quorum etiam hirsuiis pellibus sibi indumenta coaptant. li a saliendo juxta linguam barbaram etyraologiam ducunt. Saltibus enim utentes, arte quadam ligno incurvo ad arcus similitudinem feras assequuntur. Apud hos est animal cervo satis assimile," &c. — Paul. Diacon. de Gestis Langohardorum. lib. i. c. 71. p. 354. Basil. Froben. 1532. (3) '• Sola in sagittis spes, quas, inopia ferri, ossibus asperant. Idem- que venatus viros pariter ac feminas alit. Passim enim comitantur, partemque prsedae petunt. Nee aliud ivfantibus ferarum imbriumque suffugium, quam ut in aliquo ramosum nexu contegantur : hue redeunt juvenes, hoc senum receptaculum. Sed beatius arbitrantur, quam inge- mere agris, inlaborare domibus, suas alienasque fortunas spe metuque versare." — Tacit, ubi supra. If the Roman historian had lived among the Laplanders, he could not more accurately have described their tents made of boughs, their habits, and disposition. blance to Enslish 234 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, CHAP, women and children, find a lodging beneath *< - V ^ the same roof. With regard to mosqui- toes, they may almost be said to breathe these insects; so completely, during sum- mer, is the atmosphere possessed by their swarms. ^lknt"and Amoug thcsc islauds, the Sivedish language is Sr ^^^' ^^^^ ^^ exist in its most antient and pure state : Its resem. ^^^^ ^^ hcrc approachcs so near to the English, that a servant of our own country, who travelled with us, was able to understand and sometimes to converse with the natives. It is like the old Scottish-English ; the word in^CtiH occurring for meifele', to signify much ; V^tU for tfiiltt, mean- ing the which; firatttie for burnt; ^laqixt for slain; glatitr(0 for gladdened; &c. &c. Persons at all accustomed to read old English books in the Gothic letter will have little difficulty in reading old and pure Sivedish : they will readily translate the following lines of an old Sivedish ballad, as o they are preserved by Professor Porthari of Aboy among the annotations to the *' Chronicon Episco- o porum Finlandensium" printed at Abo : (I) " %])t hins, tfjat IjearD all W carping, J^e tJjankeD \)tt in meikle tl)(nff«" Barbour's Life of Robert Bruce, p. 85. Edin. 1758. TO KUMLINGE. 235 Of feciom, oc() ?tocr ciiabe ; X^c fore ofwcv baftvct cc(; in i ^'iam, ^It t|)e tn'mttc opp ©ifminx: Iccm ^}(vfic6i^fop ivavt tl)cv ^ragin, THE SAME ENGLISHED. Sweden had much danger Of Carelians, and great disgrace ; They passed over the sea and into the Malar^ Arid they burnt up Sigluna : John Archbishop was there slain, The which gladdened Carelis and Rysland. The verb To eat, in the Aland Isles, is exactly the same as with us in English, and has the same pronunciation; but in Stockholm, and in other parts of the country where a mixture of the German has intervened and occasioned mo- dern corruptions in the language, ^pci^cn is sub- stituted for dta* Again, a bush is called buska;- and a decoy-duck, a lure, as in England. The instances of similarity in the two languages which occur among the names of domestic uten- sils, as ^ot, %aw, .*5amnier, and in the appellations bestowed upon the implements of husbandry, are too numerous to mention. The manners and customs of the Alanders brins: to mind those of the natives of the isles CHAP. V. 236 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, ^^^' of Scotland. Every man manufactures for him- '' V -' self. They pique themselves much upon their Seai-skin saudals of seal-skiu, in which may be seen the sandals. *' first rudiments of a shoe. This kind of sandal is an oblong piece of skin, with a cord fixed round its edge, by which the sandal is made to close upon and cover the foot ; the ends of the cord being afterwards fastened round the ankle. Similar sandals, though made of difierent mate- rials, are worn by the natives of the southern provinces in Italy, especially those of Ahruzzo ; also by the Laplanders and Russians^ I have seen them finely represented in marble, among the works of Greek sculptors. The thongs, or cords, which bound them to the feet, were by the Greeks called (fjuccvrsg^. Among the Alanders, the hair of the seal is preserved on the outside, and within they put a little straw. These sandals, rude as they appear, are, when made of seal-skin, in such high estimation, that although common upon the feet of every one of the inha- bitants, not one among them can be prevailed upon to sell a pair to a stranger. The great utility of them arises in their resistance to moisture : they prevent the melting snow from (1) See Vignette to Chap. X. of the First Volume of these Travels. (2) Mark i. 7. Luke iii. 16. Perizon. ad jElian. ix. 11. TO KUMLINGE. 237 CHAP. V. penetrating, and are at the same time exceed- ingly light and comfortable to the feet. During the winter, the Alanders are chiefly ^vimer oc- ^ cupations. occupied m fishing, by dragging their nets under the ice, or in hunting for and killing seals by shooting them. Few people are such expert marksmen ^ When the sea is frozen over, they creep about among the rocks, with their rifle- barrelled guns, watching for the appearance of a seal's head through an aperture in the ice. These animals are forced to come up for air; and the moment a seal-shooter sees one of them thrusting his nose through one of the holes to breathe, he levels his gun and dispatches him. They seldom miss their aim; for the loss of ammunition is a very serious concern. The manner in which the seals expose their young to all the rigour of the climate, is very extraor- dinary. They leave them upon the naked sur- face of the ice, in frozen caverns among the (3) The Norwegians are not less skilful than the Swedes in the use of the rifle. There is a passage upon this subject in Dr. Lee's MS. Journal : — " The Norway farmers are celebrated shots. I am credibly informed that they hit their game with a single bullet; and that were they to miss, they would be quite out of temper, as the loss of a charge is of much value to them. They often shoot game on the wing with a bullet ; and a Norwegian has been known to assert that he would shoot his bird, in this manner, through the head ; and has fulfilled his engagement." Dr. Fintt Lre's MS. Journal. 238 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, CRAP, rocks, and sometimes in cavities of the ice itself. '' % - ' During the day-time, they dive through the holes and chasms into the abyss below for food ; and at night, steal unperceived to the place where they have deposited their young, carry- ing with them the fish they have taken, and there feed them. If the seal-hunters find them at large upon the ice, or upon the shore, they dispatch them easily with the safety-pike before described. The appearance of the seal-hunters equipped for this singular species of chace is really curious. They generally go in pairs, in search of their game. I met several of these intrepid sportsmen, braving the severity of the atmosphere, and watching for hours upon the same spot for the appearance of the seals. Their dress consisted of a sheep's-skin for a jacket, worn with the wool towards the body, and fastened by a leathern belt about the waist; seal-skin sandals ; and a fur cap. At their back they carry a rifle, sometimes inclosed in a case of seal-skin ; and in their right-hand appears the safety-pike, which they use as a walking- staff. As I was going to bed, a crowd of other tra- vellers arrived, all adventurers, like myself; who, from some of the neighbouring isles, had effected a passage to Saiiunga, and wished to TO KUMLINGE. 239 get to Kumlijige. These were all mariners ; the chap. masters and crews of merchant-ships locked in v ^ , > by the ice. Having left a few hands on board, merely to guard their vessels, they were all going to their respective homes in Finland. The little village of Sattunga had never seen so many strangers assembled there before : every cottage was full of them. As soon as daylight appeared P^epara- . . J o ri tionsfora on the followmg mornmg, the court-yard of the joumey on house where I had slept was crowded with per- Kumiinge. sons who were to join company, and had made this their place of rendezvous. As every one of these persons had engaged his own party of peasants, almost every male inhabitant of Sat- tunga was hired for the journey across the ice to Kumlinge, I had engaged my host, two of his athletic sons, and five other peasants. I found the whole body drawn up, as in military array. The dress of the Sattunga peasants was moreover uniform : they were all clad in the same simple and cleanly manner, wearing white sheep-skin jackets, dark fur caps, seal-skin sandals ; and each person had his safety-pike in his hand. They amounted in all to thirty-seven persons ; and the proudest General in Europe might have rejoiced to number such men among his troops. We had some little distance to march by land, until we came to the sea-shore 240 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, CHAP, opposite Kumlinge ; when all of them were formed into a procession upon the ice, exhibiting V, Descrip- ^ scene alt02:ether new to me. First went a tion of the Procession partv of scouts, as pioneers, proving the ice on leaving . _, .. ^ sfittunga. with their safety-pikes. Then came the iSiveaisn Post to Finland; the mail-bags, fastened upon a very small sledge, being drawn by a single man. Then followed another party of scouts, with their pikes as before ; and, after these men, my own sledge, bearing whatever clothes I had with me, and a small stock of provisions which I had purchased for my friend in Kumlinge, whom I expected to find in want of common necessaries. Next advanced a promiscuous multitude of tra- vellers, without much order or caution, pre- ceding their respective sledges, and attentive only to the preserving of a proper distance from each other, so as not to huddle together on any one spot : and, behind all these, another party of the peasants, ready for any work in which their assistance might be required. The whole retinue, when extended upon the ice, reached to the distance of two English miles ; and in those intervals when I could sufficiently abstract my mind from all sense of danger to survey this curious train, the effect produced by the appearance of such a numerous host marching over the abyss of water was very pleasing. I TO KUMLINGE. 241 had walked in this manner thirty-five miles on chap. the preceding day, in a state of such constant ' — v — ' alarm, that little leisure was allowed for calmly viewing the scene around us ; and the guides were of opinion, that, although the distance to Kumlinge in a direct line was not above twenty- one English miles, yet the number of circuits we should be compelled to make would render our journey quite equal to that of the preceding day. We had not long quitted the shore of Shttunga, and were advancing towards an island in front of our route, when two seal-hunters suddenly Encounter made their appearance from behind some rocks, seai. raising their voices as loud as they could, and ''""''^'■'* were seen with their lifted pikes, calling to the foremost of our scouts, and bidding them to halt and fall back as quick as possible. The cries of ''Keep off keep of !" in the Sivedish language, were at first not heeded by our guides : but as we drew nearer, we could distinctly hear these men telling our pioneers that the ice was open in several places, and everywhere, accord- ing to their own expression, *' too rotten to he trusted" Accordingly we fell back with as much caution as possible, retracing our former footsteps ; and afterwards altered our course, Change of ft '111- Route. proceedmg about nme English miles to the south VOL. XT. R 242 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, CHAP. oiSattunga before we could bear up again towards « — , the Island of Kimlinge. A variety of currents, prevalent among these islands, keep the sea in some places open, even during the hardest frosts ; but as there is always inconstancy in their operation, it is impossible to say when or where a route may be practicable upon the ice, without proving it. That so many open places were not owing to any want of rigour in the temperature, is evident from this circumstance — that when we were farther from land, we found the surface, which had been hitherto smooth, and sometimes glassy, fixed in a variety of irre- gular and fantastic shapes, rough and indented, but hard as adamant, and evidently shewing to us those broken masses which appear only when the v.'aves of the sea have been suddenly fixed and rendered solid during their turbulent state. One can hardly conceive any thing more extra- ordinary, than a frost capable of producing such an effect; nor would it have been produced ■without a heavy fall of snow, at the time, min- gling with the salt-water. These slabs of ice form instantaneously : and, by the commotion of the waves, being thrust edgeways out of the water, become fixed, in all directions, into one solid bed. Our walking was, in consequence, ren- dered painful and tedious — a work of difficulty. TO KUMLINGE. 243 and often of alarm ; apertures and chasms among chap. these huge masses shewing us the liquid abyss beneath our feet; and frequently, when we thought ourselves the most secure, we were found to be in the greatest peril. Not a step could be taken without first proving, every one with his pike, where he should set his foot : nor was it at all safe to tread in the footsteps of those who had gone before ; since the same ice which had sustained the weight of one of our party, might, as indeed it happened more than once, give way with the next; and we had a narrow escape of losing two of our guides, who were saved by the dexterity, watchfulness, and courage of their comrades. An instance of a similar nature happened soon afterwards. The men, who had the charge of the Ostero- Bothnia Mail, upon a hand-sledge, actually passed over an opening in the ice covered only by a thin surface of frozen snow. Presently our pikemen approached the same spot; and were about to attempt the same dangerous passage, when, at the first plunge they made with their pikes, the water spouted up, and they scampered off in all directions. I had no idea of the extent of their danger, until coming towards the same place, I perceived only a thin covering of snow, which nevertheless had been sufficiently frozen to II -2 244 CIRCUITOUS JOURNEY, ON THE SEA, CHAP, support the weight of the peasant and sledge with the Ostero- Bothnia mail-bags, and of the guides who had gone before. As we continued to advance across the more open sea, the ice became stronger : and being now at a considerable distance from any land, the prospect widened on all sides, and became at every instant more desolate and appalling. The wind had carried off every particle of snow ; and we journeyed for many miles over a surface clear and transparent as glass. It was the last day of the eighteenth century ; which made me push forward with spirit and vigour, that, at least, I might terminate the most extra- ordinary adventure of my life, together with the most remarkable period of it, in some place where I could lay my head, and not remain benighted upon the frozen surface of an inhos- pitable sea. At mid-day, I halted to distribute some slight refreshment among our guides. As I served out to them their allowance of biscuit and Swedish brandy, they all stood bare-headed, and said grace. What a scene, for such solemnity \ While they were engaged in their brief and scanty meal, I surveyed the distant waste. Towards the East, all was bleak and open — a vast region of " thick-ribbed ice," wherein hardly a single object relieved the wandering eye. The TO KUMLINGE. 245 sun, scarce elevated above the horizon, put forth chap. ungenial splendour; for although shining in - cloudless majesty, his rays came across the chilling desert rather reminding one of what he wanted than of what he gave. The thermo- meter, when exposed to his full beams, scarcely acknowledged his presence. The mercury, ac- cording to Fahrenheit'^ scale, in the morning, had fallen to ten degrees above zero ; and now, at noon-day, it only rose one degree higher. Towards the West the prospect was more varied; the numberless rocks, islands, and islets, which o fill the Aland Sea, being here collected into in- numerable clusters. We set out once more : and presently the Island of Kumlinge was hailed by our party, as being visible at the distance of fourteen English miles towards the North. It was immediately pointed out to me by one of our guides; and the sight of it, at that moment, filled me with joy. We pressed forward with all the speed we could muster, and met with little to impede or oppose our progress. About three o'clock we entered into a small bay belonging to the island : and being very eager to land, I made the best of my way towards a low shore, with one of the most active and foremost of the guides : the rest of our retinue were a long way V. 246 ARRIVAL AT KUMLINGE. CHAP, in the rear, some of them at the distance of five or six miles ; being retarded by their burdens and sledges. Here the marks of footsteps and sledges from the village of Kumlinge to the sea-side were very visible in the snow^ : and as these served me for excellent land-marks in tracing the road thither, I set out alone ; and had not proceeded above two English miles, before I distinguished, among a groupe of little wooden-boxes, which were so many dwellings belonging to the village, an upright pole, to which a vane was attached — the well- known sign of the @actqifjtJare=gavb, or Inn, in Sweden. I hastened towards it ; and en- tering, found my long-lost Friend and Compa- nion — as much rejoiced to see me as I was to see him — sitting in a black and miserable dun- geon, which he had used as his apartment; but in good health, after a week's confinement in a place where the combined action of fire and smoke could not prevent every thing around him from freezing. Thus terminated the year One Thousand Eight Hundred of our aera. And here I shall also terminate the account of this Expedition — thailkfiil to Providence for the dangers I have escaped ; and reserving for another Chapter, in the opening of a new century, the style of narra- tive which, being less personal, I had before, adopted. CHAP. VI. KUMLINGE TO ABO. The Party leave KmnWuge — Brief account of that island — Bjorko — Brando — Extraordinary Congregation for Divine Service — Vattuskiftei — Bursting of the Ice— Varssala — Revolting manners of the Natives — Vale- dictory remarks upon the Swedes — Fahrenheit'^ Ther- mometer fifty -two degrees and a half below freezing — Turvesi Passage — Accidents from the frost — Helsing — Himois — Vinkela — Action of atmospheric air upon vapour — State of travelling in Finland — Laitis — Tursanpare — Niemenkyla — Nussis-Nummis — Arrival at Abo — Nar- row escape from suffocation. 248 KUMLINGE TO ABO. ^ yj^' The next day, Wednesday^ Jan. 1, 1800, we left ^j^^p^^j ' Kumlinge, crossing part of the Lappvesi Passage leave with horses to our sledges : but we afterwards Kumlinge. _ ^ found that the ice would not bear their weight the whole way : our guides therefore left these poor animals exposed upon a bleak island, from which they said they would not attempt to stray ; and themselves drew our sledge to Bjorko, or the Birch Island. A painter would have found a curious subject for his pencil, in the figures of the two horses upon an ice-clad rock, when we abandoned them. Being heated by drawing the sledges, the drops of sweat had congealed into long icicles, sticking out, like bristles, all over their bodies, and hanging in such long and thick stalactites from the nostrils, that it seemed dan- gerous to attempt to break them off, for fear of tearing away the flesh with them : all their shaggy manes and tails and hair were thus covered by a white opake crust with pendent icicles, so that they seemed rather like some non-descript animals than horses. As soon as we quitted them, they turned their heads to leeward ; and remained fixed, like marble sta- tues, upon the rock; closing their eyes, and scarce shewing signs of animal life. Account of Of Kumlinge, sometimes written Kumlinga, urn inge. ^^^ ij^jand wc had now quitted, a very short KUMLINGE TO ABO. 249 description will suffice. It is larger than any chap. of the neighbouring isles, and has a population ■ ^yl ..^ of about 320 souls. The number of families amount to forty. The church, a rude Gothic structure of considerable antiquity, is built of granite, and roofed with wood. The inhabitants are an industrious race, and cultivate the small quantity of soil their island affords, so as to make it very productive/ (1) The following extracts from Mr. Crijips's MS. Journal, written during liis solitary confinennent in JTumlinge, will not be read without in- terest. He describes bis lodging as a chamber about four yards square, with two beds in it; one of which was occupied by his English servant; and there was just room enough besides for our little dog to stretch himself before the fire, upon a floor covered with dirt an inch thick. The sides of this wretched chamber were covered with inscriptions, the lamentations of former travellers detained here by adverse weather. These extracts will be transcribed verbatim, in the order observed in the Diary whence they are taken. " Kumlinge, Wednesday, Dec. 25. — The inhabitants of this village went to church this morning at six o'clock, by candle-light. After breakfast, I hired a horse and sledge, and set out, accompanied by my host, to examine the state of the island. The village of Kumlinge is distant half a Swedish mile from the sea. -Bought three white hare- skins, for which they asked about twelvepence of our money. Fox-skins sell for a much higher price.— —The people of this island do not grow rye enough for their own consumption ; but import it from Finland, paying for it in money which they obtain from the same country by the sale of their fish.— —They prefer the winter to the summer season. In winter, they make and repair their nets, and kill quantities of game, especially of Black Game, which is common here. In summer, they work hard, getting in their stock of hay, harvest, and fish. Like all other Swedes, they cannot live without brandy ; but they seldom drink to in- toxication. Even the gentry of Sweden are discontented, and quite out of their element, without brandy ; especially if they have it not with their whet 250 KUMLINGE TO ABO. CHAP. Bjork'6 has nothing more worth notice than its '^— , — ' name. The inhabitants of the small village so '^"'^ "' called were gone to church, as they do every holiday in Siueden ; the peasants being particu- larly attentive to their religious duties. Here we whet before dinner. All the peasants wear fur-caps ; and each man two pairs of gloves, one of worsted next to the skin, and one of leather over the worsted. While engaged in making these notes, the daughter of my host entered and presented me with a plate of nuts, which she said they gather in the summer to eat at Christmas. " Thursdai/, Dec. 26. — My host and all his family are again gone to church. The Alanders, in this respect, resemble the rest of their Swedish countrymen, being sincerely a religious people. My English servant has observed, that every night, before they eat their supper, they all kneel down and say their prayers most devoutly, and after supper sing a hymn of thanksgiving. The manner in which they sleep is singular. They all live in one room ; their beds being stationed in cots, one above another. To these they ascend, naked, by ladders ; stripping them- selves, even before strangers, without appearing conscious of any in- decency. " At nine this morning, Celsius's thermometer, in my room, was two degrees below 0. Having placed it in the open air, it fell fourteen degrees below 0. I then exposed some Sivedish brandy in the open air: it did not freeze ; but the bottle being brought into the room, was in. stantly covered witli ice. The greatest heat that I could produce in my miserable chamber did not raise the mercury above the freezing-point. The sun rose thia morning at about ten minutes after nine, and set about ten minutes before three. Finding that the brandy did not freeze in the bottle, I put out some in a pewter-plate, and it became solid. " Friday, Dec. 27.^ — In this village there are nearly as many windmills as houses ; each family having its own mill, which they call i3Ult3nU ' ' Every article of the wearing apparel of the inhabitants is of their own manufacture. The main business of the year, with all of them, is that of taking fish. They sell only what they do not want for their own con- sumption ; and buy malt and rye, from which they make tlieir brandy. They moreover sell tallow, and make their own candles : they also send butter, cheese, and pork, to Stockholm; and brew a bad kind of beer. In their persons they are much neater than in their houses. Each family VI. KUMLINGE TO ABO. 20 I observed the near resemblance between the ^^'/}^- names of things in these islands and in our own ^ country. The fire was low, and they said they would throw on a bush (6u5!fa) to raise it, and brought in some juniper-boughs for that purpose. family kills five or six seals in a year, and fourteen or fifteen sheep My host pays about fourteen or fifteen dollars annually to the King, and as many Plats* \o the Clergyman ; and two Pliits annually towards the repairs of the church. He maintains one horse, eight cows, and fifteen sheep. " Saturday, Dec. 28. — This morning, my worthy host invited me to accompany him upon a shooting excursion. He was dressed in the habit worn by all the peasants — a sheep-skin jacket with the wool inwards, a fur-cap, woollen breeches, and worsted stockings; shoes of seal-skin; and over them rein-deer skins with the liair outwards, to prevent the snow from thawing and penetrating to the feet. One of the most entertaining sights is, to see one of these marksmen upon a shooting excursion in the forests, wliither I followed my landlord. Upon coming into the wood, he placed himself upon a small eminence among the trees; and here, laying down his gun, he, to my great amazement, drew out of his pocket a small opera-glass, and beg.m to survey all the surrounding district. After a few minutes' attentive observation, '' Ah !" said he, " there is an Crra"— the name they give to the Black Game. Then crawling upon his hands and knees to a convenient distance, he placed himself, at his whole length, upon the snow. After a considerable time spent in taking aim, he coolly opened the pan of the lock of his fowling-piece, took out a piece of tow, and, levelling the barrel once more, drew the trigger and shot the bird. They are particularly careful in cleansing the gun after every shot; and are hardly ever known to miss their aim, if they draw the trigger: but this they never do, unless they be sure o*" (heir mark ; and they never attempt to siioot flying. This was a cock-bird, and a very fine one, of the size of a pheasant. Afterwards, he shot a kind of wild-duck, which he called a Lure. 'I'he people here retire to rest as early as seven o'clock in the evening. " Suii'lai/, Dec. 29. — Attended divine service in the church. The prayers and sermon were in the Swedish language. The men sit on one side, and the women on the other, as in all parts of Sweden. The Clergyman seemed o * A PIH is sixteen shillings, or eight-pence sterling of our money. VI Brando 252 KUMLINGE TO ABO. CHAP. From Bjork'o, we proceeded, chiefly by land, to Brando, or the Burnt Island. Where we had to pass the inlets and passages of the sea, the ice was strong enough to bear our horses the whole way, which enabled us to perform this part of our journey very expeditiously. At Brando there is a wretched village of the same name ; and this name had excited our curiosity, because it signifies ** The Burntisland:" but we seemed to preach with great energy, and in a very loud tone of voice. He invited me afterwards to his house. The disposition to shew kindness to strangers prevails all over these islands ; but they speak of the Rzissians with strong marks of aversion. " Monday, Dec. 30. — A great deal of snow fell to-day, towaixls even- ing.— — I have before said, that the natives were all their own tailors, weavers, shoemakers, Sec. ; but I now observe that they are also their own tanners and carpenters. They procure aWer-bark, and chop it into very small pieces; boiling it in water, in which they first put their skins j and thus manufacture their own leather. A white hare was dressed for my dinner this day. It was first boiled, and afterwards fried • which I found to be no bad way of dressing a hare. Two young women came to the house, according to a very extraordinary custom, to beg, before their marriage. When any of the young girls of the island are about to marry, they are allowed to ask for gifts from all their friends, for some months before the knot is tied. These damsels were to be married in the ensuing spring. They brought with them each a bag of linen, as white as snow. Into these bags their neighbours threw their eleemosynary gifts, — a little money — a little corn — some feathers — a little household provision — a little wool — a little tow— any thing, in short, rather than nothing. o " A pernicious and dangerous practice exists in all the Aland Isles, as in former times in England, although justly prohibited in Sweden — that of covering their floors with straw during the Christmas season, by way of garniture. The sparks and blazing deal-splinters from their fires, falling upon their floor, frequently kindle the straw ; by which means not only houses, but whole villages, are burned." Crippts MS. Journal. KUMLINGE TO ABO. 253 found nothing in the appearance of the rocks to ^"^^• explain the cause of the appellation. There is '«— % — ' not a trace of any volcanic matter. The geolo- gical features here, as usual in all this district, were formed of granite; with veins of very- coarse marble, which in some places rises to the surface, and forms the bed of the soil. As we left Brand'u, a sight was presented which we may vainly attempt to set before the reader in all its novel varieties and livino^ colours. The Extraordr- '^ _ nary Con- church service had just ended : and at this gregation for Divine season of the year the congregations are so service. numerous, that one only wonders how so many people can be accommodated with a place for their devotions. Persons of all ages and sexes were coming from the sanctuary of this little island, and about to disperse to their distant homes. We met the Clergyman, in the midst of his numerous congregation, habited in a peasant's dress, like the rest of his flock. Up- wards of an hundred sledges, to which wild and beautiful horses were harnessed, were seen pre- sently in motion ; and they might be said, like so many vessels, to be literally " getting under weigh;''' for they all took to the sea; where, being extended upon the ice in a long line of procession, they formed a most singular sight*. (l) Seethe Vignette to this Chapter. 254 KUMLINGE TO ABO. CHAP. If it had not been for the swiftness with which this vast retinue moved, it might have been compared to a caravan crossing the desert. To us the spectacle was particularly interesting; because it exhibited, in one view, the population of almost all the different islands around Brando, the natives being all in their holiday attire. Their sledges, containing whole families, were drawn by those fleet and beautiful little Finland horses, of which mention has been already made, in a former part of this work. We overtook them upon the ice, in fidl gallop ; the peasants who drew our sledges being as anxious as any of the party to fall into the train, which now reached nearly three English miles. They had all taken their whet of brandy, as usual, after divine service ; and the coming of strangers among them, at this moment, adding to their hilarity, such racing commenced upon the frozen main, as reminded us of antient representations of scenes in the Circus and Hippodrome. Here were seen female charioteers contesting speed against their male companions; sledges over- turned ; the young and old of both sexes tumbling out and sprawling upon the ice; horses breaking loose from their trappings, scampering off in all directions ; other peasants, liaving gained the van, flying off* as fast as their fiery, snorting KUMLINGE TO ABO. 2^5 steeds could fly with them — laughing, shouting, and bidding: defiance to those behind. In this manner we began the passage of the FattmhfieU /'"".'"'' a channel of the sea as wide as that of the Delet, and in which there is always a strong current towards the Baltic. The distance across, in a direct line by water, is not more than eighteen English miles ; but, owing to this current, the ice was not passable in a straight course; and we were compelled, as usual, to make a cir- cuitous route, that nearly doubled the distance to Varssala (pronounced Fartsala). As we pro- ceeded, the immense throng of sledges was gradually dispersed ; and at length we found ourselves once more alone upon the wide surface of the frozen sea. About halfway over, we met a party coming from the Finland shore, loud in their murmurs about the state of the ice, which ^f"he'i?e they said had opened upon them near the land. We presently found this to be true : upon com- ing to the part of the passage they alluded to, the water appeared gushing through a chasm two miles in length. This opening had taken place with an explosive noise, as of a cannon firing. One part of the ice, in settling, Avas now below the level of the other ; and the continual vibratory motion of that upon which we tra- velled, yielding to the pressure of the horses' 266 KUMLINGE TO ABO. ^^^j^' feet, convinced us that it was not frozen to any »■■ ^ v -i/ great depth. Whenever this is the case, and the least alarm prevails, the first caution a traveller ought to use is, to prevent, if possible, the affrighted peasants from huddling together in a mass — which they are very apt to do, collecting their horses and sledges all upon one spot. It is very difficult to make a Finlander sensible that his own weight is of any importance upon such occasions. Fifty of them will crowd together, to consult upon the best method of getting out of the danger, and thereby render it more immi- nent. The consequences are obvious. In this manner it was that a gentleman, going towards Finland, was merged with his sledge and horse but a few days before our coming. His own life was saved, by the dexterity of the guides — who shew great skill in rescuing persons when the ice has given way ; but the sledge and horse were lost. Even the day before, on the morning of the author's expedition to Saitunga, another traveller lost all his baggage, owing to the same imprudence and want of caution, when crossing the ice by the Lappvesi Passage : the peasants, finding the ice grow weaker and weaker, be- came alarmed, and crowded together round the sledge containing all his effects, which presently fell through the surface, and sunk KUMLINGE TO ABO. 25/ to the bottom of the sea. Fortunately, no lives ^y^^' were lost. ^*-"v— ' It was dark when we arrived at Farssala, and varssaia. enterea a dirty wretched hovel, without any accommodation for travellers ; and yet this is almost the only place marked for their reception between Kumlinge and Abo. There are not more than twenty-five habitations in the whole island, which is a huge rock thinly covered with a meagre soil. The food of the inhabitants seemed to consist of nothing more than black bread, a nauseous kind of beer, and bad salted-fish. We read the lamentations of many who had left a memorial of their regret in being confined to this detestable spot, where there is nothing in the houses superior to what is found in the worst dwellings of the Laplanders ' . The natives here began to speak to us only in the Finnish (l) See the entertaining account given by Porter, of his long penance in this place. {^Travelling Sketches in Russia and Sweden, vol.11, p. 89, &c. Lond. 1809.) " I entered," says the author of that work, " a hovel, fitter to be the den of sea-monsters than a habitation of the human race." Yet in this wretched island Mr. Porter noticed a style of head- dress among the women, which may often be observed in the best Greek sculpture ; and which he describes as peculiar to the women of Varssaia ; — " the hair being drawn up to the top of the head, and there rolled into a sort of knot : smoothed at the sides, and well plastered with beer, it not only receives a polish from the liquor, but is kept steady in its shape. Round this mass of hair, on the crown, is fixed a kind of diadem, com- posed of beads, bugles, &c. of various colours ; which ornament completes the coiffure; the whole having the air of a Greek head-dress, more like a nymph of Paplios than of Warsala."' Ibid. ;;. 93. VOL. XT. S 258 KUMLINGE TO ABO. ^ vi.^' language. There was but one man who could ^ converse with our Swedish interpreter, or com- Revoiting prchcnd any thing of what he said. The man- manners of the ners of the people were so revolting, that one hesitates in giving the description of any thing so disgusting. The glasses put on the table were dirty; and this being mentioned, they attempted to clean them with spittle. A woman, who entered the chamber with a saucer of butter, not only blew her nose upon her fingers, but into the palm of her hand ; and then, wiping it upon her petticoat, proceeded to handle all the provi- sions that were set forth. If it were a question, Which is the more tolerable, the filth of Italy and the South of France, or that to which a traveller is exposed in the North of Europe P an answer would not readily be made. In warm climates, it is as difl[icult to avoid vermin as it is to escape from villainy. In Northern regions, there is more of honesty; but sometimes the bar- barous condition of the inhabitants causes them to betray the most disgusting manners ; — and where is the Englishman who can fortify either his nerves or his stomach, so as to regard with indifference the most beastly propensities ? Neither the houses nor the persons of the natives in the North of Europe, if we except Russia, swarm with vermin as in Itali/ ; although they be not destitute : but the climate is unfavourable KUMLINGE TO ABO. 269 both to their increase and activity. These chaI'. VI, nameless insects, in Sweden and Finland, like the inhabitants themselves, are few in number, but heavy and gigantic in their size'. Oh England! decent abode of comfort and cleanliness, and decorum! — Oh blessed asylum of all that is worth having upon earth ! — Oh sanctuary of Religion, and of Liberty, for the whole civilized world ! — It is only in viewing the state of other countries, that thy advantages can be duly esti- mated! — May thy sons, who have "fought the good fight," but know and guard what they pos- sess in thee ! — Oh Land of happy fire-sides, and cleanly hearths, and domestic peace ; of filial piety, and parental love, and connubial joy; " the cradle of Heroes, the school of Sages, the temple of Law, the altar of Faith, the asylum of innocence,-" the bulwark of private security and of public honour! " where'er I ROAM, WHATEVER REALMS TO SEE, MY HEART, UNTRATELL'D, FONDLY TURNS TO THEE !" (1) At Varssala, however, they cannot be said to be " few in number." After the Author of the " Travelling Sketches," before cited, was driven back to this island, he thus writes of its filthy state : — " Here then I am again, with the happy prospect of passing, Heaven knows how many more days ! in cold, filth, and famine. I wish the sea would, some time or other, do this island the favour of a thorough washing : and then I am sure more living creatures of the creeping a.v\d jumping species would be drowned in the flood, than ever filled the waters at the general deluge." Ibid. p. 92. (2) Sermon by H. V. Bayley, A.M. Fellow of Trinity College, Cam,' bridge, p. 14. Manchester, 1S03. s 2 upon the Swedes. 260 KUMLINGE TO ABO. In this miserable place, Varssala, we may be considered as having entered Finland once more ; and, what is worse, of bidding a final remarks adicu to SwEDEN. In the coursc of our long account of the country and its inhabitants, it will be seen, that, with a strong predilection for the comforts and advantages of England, we have spoken favourably of the Swedes — and per- haps for this reason, that they so strongly re- semble Englishmen in all they do and say. As for their natural rudeness of manner, we were soon taught, that what belonged to them as a characteristic of the whole nation, and is in itself harmless, might well be tolerated. "We often heard foreigners, and especially the French, when speaking of the Swedes, complain of the impossibility of enduring the freedoms of which they are guilty towards strangers ; but we con- sidered this trivial fault as more than over- balanced by their many valuable virtues — by their love of truth, and honesty, and hospitality, and bravery. Some few things must be conceded to a Swede ; and you make him your fast friend, and the most kind-hearted and generous of men. He must be allowed to enter into your apart- ment, unbidden, and unknown, upon the mo- ment of your arrival, without any form of intro- duction or ceremony ; to seat himself at your KUMLINGE TO ABO. 261 table ; spit all over your floor ; fill your chamber ^"'^^• with tobacco-smoke ; ask your name, your rank, > • • u- > your profession, your age, your country, your character, your business — all your present and future plans ; where you have been, what you are doing, and whither you are going: — finally, what you think of Sweden. Having answered all these questions, sometimes without his caring at all about your replies or attending to them, you will find yourself upon even terms with him. His house, his horses, his equipage, his ser- vants, his time, his company, his advice, and very often his purse also, all are at your service, and entirely at your command. He will make common stock with you, and freely share with you whatsoever he has. Thus, although, in viewing his character and manners, we may sometimes find a little ground of complaint, yet we cannot see any thing seriously to condemn. It is in fact, and not in morality, that the Sivedes are deficient. Often, when they have travelled and learned more of what is called * refinement,' they lose something of their more estimable qualities. Our journey from Varssala the next morning {January i) was one of extreme suffering; and perhaps few English travellers ever encountered one of greater trial. The reports made by the 262 KUMLINGE TO ABO. ^ vi.^' peasants and by our servants, at starting, had ' — * — ' prepared us to expect very severe cold ; and the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer, after being exposed only for a few minutes in a sheltered situation near the house, had fallen 46° below the freezing-point ; and afterwards, when more exposed to a north-east wind, which blew with violence, to 52l° before sun-rise. Yet, as any thing was preferable to remaining in the wretched and unwholesome hovel where we had passed the night, we resolved to brave all the incle- mency of the weather, and set out, at eight o'clock, in open sledges. We had used every possible precaution, as to additional clothing ; but it was all to no purpose. When for a mo- ment exposed to the atmosphere, a sensation in our cheeks like that of being scorched imme- diately took place. We covered our faces with silk handkerchiefs, drawn over them in such a manner as to leave the smallest possible aper- ture for respiration ; the consequence was, that the inside of the handkerchief became coated with a plate of ice, which, sticking to the skin and not melting, could not be removed without excoriation. We had to cross a frozen channel Turvesi of thc sca, callcd the Turvesi Passage ; a narrow Fatiage. strait ; but being open towards the north-east, we were exposed to all the fury of the blast. In KUMLINGE TO ABO. 263 Frost. 31 short time the author found that his left-eye ^hap. was so frozen that he could not by any effort ' y > separate the eyelids, and he began to be fearful that the right-eye would also close. At this moment there came on a sudden squall of wind ; so piercing, that a languid stupor and sleepiness seized us all, and there was reason to apprehend the freezing of the blood in our veins. It was fromthV followed by a cry from our Swedish interpreter, that our English servant's face was frozen. We hastened to his assistance ; and found the poor man almost insensible, with two large spots upon one of his cheeks, as if patches of white paper had been stuck on. Our peasants knew very well what these spots were, and how to treat them. We began instantly the application of snow, which is always resorted to in such cases — rubbing them with handfuls of snow, until they disappeared ; but, to our dismay, new spots appeared, in fresh places, as fast as the old ones were removed. The interpreter's nose, during the operation, turned as white as the snow itself; and one of the peasants had a spot that covered his cheek and one side of his nose. The only danger, when these accidents occur, arises from being alone, and having no com- panion to witness the spot and give the alarm ; as the person attacked is insensible of what lias 261 KUMLINGE TO ABO. taken place ; and if he should enter into a warm room with one of these spots, the white colour becomes livid, and an open sore instantly ensues, which sometimes mortifies, but always, even after it is healed, leaves a black scar behind'. Our poor little dog, that lay in the bottom of one of the sledges, wrapped up in woollen, and as carefully guarded from the atmosphere as possible, had one of his hind-legs frozen so stiff, that it stuck to his belly as if it had been glued, and we. could not remove it. In this dilemma, we found that it would be madness to continue much longer thus exposed; and we made all possible haste to reach the village of Leosari^ which was hard by; where we entered a house, the owner of which was known to our guides, and where the worthy family hospitably received us all. They first cautioned us against venturing into a warm room : notwithstanding which, our English servant found the temptation too strong to be resisted, and imprudently entered a cham- ber where there was a heated stove. The con- sequence was, that his face almost instantly became blistered and very painful ; and in a (I) Tlie drivers of sledges in Petersburg, from their carelessness in going with these spots upon their faces into warm drinking-rooms, are always liable to such sores; and appear frequently with their faces dis- figured by the black scars, for the rest of iheir lives. KUMLINGE TO ABO. 2G5 CHAP. VI. few hours, a thin purulent ichor flowed from the wound. Every one of the party who had been ■ " ' v attacked by the white spots had blisters upon the skin, although snow had been used as soon as the spots were visible; and the mildest consequence was the peeling off the skin. At ten o'clock a.m. this day, we placed our thermometer in the yard before the house, ex- posed to a north aspect. The mercury fell to 49° below the freezing-point ; and we afterwards o found that, at the same hour in Jlbo, it had fallen to 30° below O, of Celsius; which is equiva- lent to 22 J*^ below zero oi Fahrenheit, or 5 2 J° below freezing. In that severe moment before our arrival at Leosari, when we all suffered so much, and were exposed upon an open field of ice, it was perhaps much colder, as the sun was then just rising. According to the Swedish calendar, it rises at this time of the year at ten minutes after nine, and sets forty minutes after two. These delays prevented all possibility of our reaching Abo before the next day ; but we con- tinued our journey over the ice ; and came to Helsing, which is upon terra firma ; where we ^^'^ising. were once more landed in Finland. After- wards, we passed through Himois ; and put up Himoi^. Vinkila, 266 KUMLINGE TO ABO. ^^ri^' for the night in the village of Vinkila. Between Varssala and Abo there is nothing that may be called an inn ; nor, indeed, any place of rest and accommodation for travellers. At Finkila, want- ing a house of this kind, we prevailed upon a widow lady to receive us into her dwelling for the night, upon condition of our paying for every thing, as in a regular ©a^tgifn^are^^avb." Having assented to our proposal, she provided us with a decent lodging, and treated us with great kindness. The frost had been this day so severe, that the horses, whenever we halted, began to bite off the icicles that were formed upon their knees, in an Action of extraordinary manner. Whenever the door of our apartment was opened, the rushing in of the cold air caused a very remarkable phaenomenon, by converting the warm vapour of the room into a whirling column or cloud of snow, which, being instantaneous in its formation, was turned round with great rapidity. We availed ourselves of this opportunity to examine the arrangement of the spicule in the particles of snow — as likely to illustrate the crystallization of water — by placing sheets of dark-coloured paper, on which the snow, thus formed, might fall. The beautiful (J) The Swedish name of an tnn. Btmosphe ric air upon vapour. KUMLINGE TO ABO. 267 appearance of the ice, collected as it fell, ^"j^* resembled, although upon a smaller scale, that '■ -' -v" ' which is presented by a number of the seeds of the common carduus or thistle, when they are sur- rounded by diverging fibres of the egret or down ; that is to say, a number of radii, diverging from a central point, were held there by a power of attraction exerted by crystalline forces in these particles of water passing from the fluid to the solid state. We had not then observed the more regular appearance of the snowy stars with six equal radii, which descend from the higher regions of the air, when the atmosphere is calm' ; or we might have been convinced that we had in these less-perfect forms a decisive proof of the crystallization of ivater ; and that Aj/fZroo-ew oxide, which is only another name for water, obeys the same laws to which all other oxides are liable'. In this house we found a Mr. Elmgreen, from fraJein^g ^bo, who agreed to accompany us, upon our '" ^^^' journey thither on the following day. From him we learned, what indeed we already found to be the case, that, in travelling this route, beds are (2) See Vol. p. 12. (5) See a complete confirmation of this truth, in the account given of regular rhombi subsequently exhibited by crystals of ice, in the *' Trans- actions of the Cambridge Fhilosophicnl Society,^' Part II. 2(38 KUMLINGE TO ABO. CHAP, a species of accommodation never found. The /- ^ traveller must put together such things as he can collect ; and lie dov^^n upon a table, or a few boards put together to raise him a little above the floor, which is seldom in a state for him to make his bed upon. But there is no part of the world where a traveller will fare worse, in this respect, than in passing through the South of Finland to Petersburg. We had called at a Clergyman's house near Himois, in our journey this day, to see if it were possible to find accommodation ; but the scene of wretchedness and dirt within his mansion was such, that we never even hinted at the cause of our visit. In the dwelling of our present hostess we had less reason to com- plain ; and her kind attentions would have made worse fare tolerable. We found that it was a part of the economy of the family to knit worsted- stockings for sale ; and we bought some, at the rate of one shilling English the pair, which were of an excellent quality. The next morning, January 3, we set out for o Abo ; first estimating the state of the thermome- ter at nine o'clock a.m. The mercury, according to Fahrenheit's scale, had then fallen to sixteen degrees and a half below zero, or forty-eight de- grees and a half below the freezing-point. Our Laiiis. first place of relay was a village called Laitis, KUMLINGE TO ABO. 269 which we soon reached, as the distance was not chap. VI. more than three Eno^lish miles and a half. Our < .■>■ » next stage, to Tursanpare, was performed with Tursan- difficulty, the road being blocked up by the ^'"'*^* snow ; in consequence of which we were com- pelled to make a rambling* circuitous expedition, pulling down hedges, and making our way through the fields. Tursanpare is rather a large village : and here we were agreeably surprised at seeing, as in England, a sign-post and sign to denote an inn. Our companion shewed us into a room, where he called for burnt-brandy with sugar and ginger in it ; a mode adopted in the country of making the abominable brandy everywhere met with rather more stomachic and palatable. From Tursanpare we continued our journey to Nie- Niemen- menkyla and Nussis-Nummis, distant only four- teen English miles from Aho. Our Swedish com- panion, who, in his sledge, was wrapped up in blankets, quilts, pelisses, all sorts of woollen and skins, and wore a fur cap upon his head cover- ing his ears and cheeks, rallied us upon our dis- regard of the cold weather, seeing that we had less clothing, and sometimes cast oiF even our cloaks ; saying, " It was so like Englishmeny to go about naked." But the fact is, that when there is no wind, and the sky is perfectly clear. Abo. 270 KUMLINGE TO ABO. however diminished the temperature may be, the air is so dry, that a sensation of chilliness is rarely experienced while a person continues in motion, and does not render himself liable to the attacks which take place in going suddenly from a warm room into the cold air. xussis- At Nussis-Nummis we were detained a short time for horses. We afterwards set out once more ; and proceeded to Abo, where we arrived Arrival at as it was getting dark. Upon our entering this Town and University, the first thing that struck us was the unusual sound of bells, upon all the horses drawing sledges about the streets. The inhabitants pay their visits attended by this kind of music ; and generally in sledges, which are made to close up like our carriages. Upon our arrival, we went to an inn kept by a person of the name of Scippell, as being the largest and best in the place. Here being conducted into a very spacious and lofty chamber, used as a pub- lic card-room, adjoining to the ball-room, and finding that it was to be heated by means of two stoves, one at either extremity of this cold apart- ment, we ordered fires in both of them. When the wood, which had been used as fuel, was so far consumed that only the clear embers remained, according to the common custom in the country, we closed the chimneys by means of an iron suflbcation. KUMLINGE TO ABO. 271 slider there placed for this purpose. It' the inha- chap. bitants close up their stoves that the embers ■ may send out heated air into the room, they are always careful to watch lest any appearance of a blue lambent flame upon the wood coals should remain, in which state it would be dangerous to shut the sliders. Unfortunately, not being ^cIpeTrom aware of this critical symptom — which, in fact, denotes the formation and disengagement of carbonic acid gas — and finding it difficult to warm so large a room at all, we stopped up the chim- neys as soon as we could do so without filling the room with smoke ; and the consequence was, that we very narrowly escaped being killed. The author first felt the attack : it came on with great coldness in the extremities, and a tendency to sneeze ; followed by a general sensation of shivering over the whole body, and violent head- ache. Presently, he fell senseless on the floor. His companion, being roused by the noise, and finding him in this situation, attempted to raise him ; but was by this time also similarly affected, and had barely strength enough left to call in the servants, who alarmed the people of the house. Luckily, there happened to be in the inn, as a lodger, a young man who was an itine- rant Lecturer in Natural Philosophy : as soon as he came into the room, in which many were 272 KUMLhNGE TO ABO. CHAP, now assembled, he perceived the cause of the ' — ^»— ( accident, and immediately drew back the iron sliders which had closed the chimneys, and opened the doors. Two persons had lost their lives in the same chamber but a short time before, and from the same cause. This young man told us that similar accidents occur fre- quently, in winter, among the peasants; the chimneys in all their houses being constructed with a sliding-board, to close over the embers of burning wood : but as the severity of the cli- mate always tempts them to shut their chimneys before the carbonic acid gas has completely effected its escape, the most fatal consequences ensue. Their mode of treating persons under these at- tacks is, to carry them out naked into the open air, and rub their bodies with snow until the vital functions are restored. We felt the bad effects of this accident in violent head-ache, which lasted during many days afterwards. CHAP. VII. ABO. State of Aho — its situation with regard to other Seminaries of Learning — its Commerce — Visit to the different Pro- fessors — Frantzen — his genius for poetry — -Specimen of one of his Odes — Porthan — Account of the University — Difficulties encountered by the Professors — Disasters to which Abo has been liable — Cathedral — Ludicrous mistake — Eff'ect of an Organ upon some Natives of Sa- volax — Interesting Cippus in the Chorus Tottianus — Statues and Pictures — inscription in memory of Cathe- rine, Widow of Eric XIV. — Historical Documents con- cerning this remarkable Woman — Sivedish Legend upon her Daughter s coffin — Manuscripts preserved in a brazen coffer — Histories of Eric',? Reign — Portraits of VOL. XI. T Luther 274 ABO. Luther and Melancthon — Image of Henry the Martyr — Chapel of Olaus, Bishop of Aho — Monument of a Scotch Officer — Universiti/ Library — Manuscripts — Typogra- phical Rarities — Theatrum Anatomicum — Auditory of Disputations — Professor Gadolin — Collection of Mine- rals — Professor Hellenius — Botanic Garden — Hellenius'i private Collections — Comparative Estimate of the two Universities, Upsala and Abo — State of Society. o Abo ranks next to Stockholm and Gothenburg, in point of grandeur; and, if we except the two last, is the largest town in all Scandinavia. It contains ten thousand inhabitants ; whereas the city of Upsala has only three thousand. Its trade is very considerable ; and is carried on chiefly with the interior parts of Finland, of which country it has long been the metropolis. Cut off by its situation from any frequent intercourse either with the Academies or commercial cities of Europe, its very name, as a University, rarely reaches the literary circles of the world : yet it boasts of many distinguished men, whose talents have fitted them to shine among the higher classes of polished society. Its men of letters would have done honour to any seat of science. All the towns on the Finland, or eastern, side of the Gulph of Bothnia, from ^l-o to Tornea, are magnificent, when compared with those on its western shore; although they enter into no com- A R C). 275 parison with the towns of England, France, Italy^ Germany, and Holland: therefore the term mag- nificent can only be applied, to any of them, in the comparative manner here specified. The country on the Finland side of the Gulph is bet- ter cultivated, and more fertile ; of course, the inhabitants are more numerous, and richer. It was always considered as the great granary of Siveden; and of more consequence, as a possession to their kingdom, than the whole of Norivay. Its trade has generally been abundant and flourish- o nig. The merchants ofyJbo, JVasa, Gamla Carlehy, and Uleahorg, are persons not only of local but of national importance and consideration : they carry on trade upon a very extensive scale, and to the most distant regions. But upon the western side of the Gulph, if we except Gefle, commonly pronounced Yavely, there is hardly an individual who may be considered under the respectable title of a merchant. As it was probable that our stay in this place would be of some duration — both on account of our being obliged to wait for the arrival of our carriage, and also from our curiosity to make ourselves well acquainted with the University o of Abo, its Professors, discipline, and state of science — we sent our interpreter, the day after our arrival, to hire lodgings ; and were soon T 2 CHAP. VII. 27d ABO. CHAP. VII. Professor Frantxen* provided with a very neat set of apartments, having three rooms en suite, besides accommo- dation for the servants, at the price of two rix- dollars, or four shillings English, per day, in- cluding fire and candles. Accordingly we moved from our inn ; and had scarcely taken up our abode in these comfortable chambers, when we received a visit from our former companion, Mr. Eimgreen ; who told us that the different Profes- sors, to whom we had letters of recommenda- tion, were at their houses, and would be very glad to see us, and to shew us every attention in their power. This kind message convinced us that we were still within the limits of Swedish hospitality : and we set out to pay our respects to all of them ; beginning with the celebrated Poet of Sweden and Finland, Professor Francis Michael Frantzen; of whose beautiful Finnish Ode, called Pojharne, both a Swedish and a Latin translation were given in a former volume ' . Frantzen was Professor of History and the Belles Lettres. We had before seen him at Gamla Carlehy, during our journey in the North of Fin- land, when he was in search of a wife, as we have before mentioned ^. Upon the occasion of our present visit, we found him in his little study, (I) See Vol. X. p. 97. (2) Ibid. p. 78. ABO. 277 surrounded by his books ; among which, to our chap. surprise, we observed Addison^ Spectator, the .. works of our Poet Grayy Coivpers Poems, and several other of our English Poets, all in their original language. Observing that we noticed his collection of English Authors, he said, " We Scandinavians are able to appreciate the beauties of English literature, because the thoughts and feelings of your writers are so nearly akin to our own." The truth of this remark will best be exemplified by an effusion of the Professor's own muse, taken from one of the public Newspapers, which he kindly presented to us, upon our ask- ing him for a specimen of his poetry ^ It has all the characteristic pathos of English poetry ; being, in fact, composed in the style, and nearly in the metre, adopted by some of our own Poets; such, for example, as Gray, in one of his Odes*; also Mernc^*, Cotton^, Burns'^', and also by Miss (3) The " ^gtOCf^Olm^ ^Oj^en, (No. 214,)" for Thursday, Sept. 19, 1793— " XlJor^&a^en, ben 19 @eptcm6ct, i793." it had, for signature, the initial and terminal letters of his name, thus written " F «." (4) See Gray's Ode, " 'Twas on a lofty vase's side," &c. Vol. I. p. 6. edit, by Mnthias. (5) See his Paraphrase of the 122d Psalm — " The festal morn, my God, is come." Also on the 65th Psahn — «' Ye works of God, on Him alone," &c. (6) See his Fire- Side : " Dear Chloe, while the busy crowd," &c. (7) See his Ode on Despondency ; " Oppress'd with grief," &c. 278 ABO. CHAP. Carter\ and by Mrs. Barbauld\ in their odes VII. ^ ' — , — ' and hymns. Many other instances, and perhaps some of a higher cast, may occur to the Reader's memory; but these happen to be here recol- lected, and will suffice to shew the analogy. One of the most striking beauties of the Siuedish poetry will not, however, be found in any of these examples, although occurring in Professor Franlzens, Ode ; namely, the dissyllabic rhyme : of this we before introduced a striking instance in Pojkarne ; where, for want of an analogous specimen in our own language, the author intro- duced his own imitation of it, in an Ode to En- terprise % modelled after tlie Swedish taste. The subject of Professor Frantzens Ode, which we shall insert in the original language, accompanied by as literal a translation as possible, is this : — 2)Mimiffjan5i %Ucte (" The Human Face or Coun- tenance"). It is addressed to Selma ; and con- (1) See particularly Miss Carter's beautiful " Ode to IVisdom ," from which the following stanza may be selected as an instance: — " To inu Thy better gifts impart, Each moral beauty of the heart, By studious thought refin'd : For wealth, the smiles of glad content ; For power, its amplest best extent, All empire o'er my mind." (2) See Mrs. Barhauld's " Hymn to Content :" " O Tiiou, the Nymph with placid eye ! O seldom found, yet ever nigh ! Receive my temperate vow !" Sec. (3) See p. 105 of the former Volume. A B (). 279 sists of eleven stanzas, written in the manner chap. VII. already noticed, but with the dissyllabic rhyme .. ^. - at the end of every line, except where the rhj'^thm alternates. A literal translation of it in analogous English metre would be difficult, if not impossible. We must therefore be contented with a correct translation in English prose ; being sensible, at the same time, of the utter im- practicability of giving any idea of the poetry by such a version. The Ode, when converted into English prose, loses all its beauty, and be- comes almost as grotesque as the French prose translation of the Odes of Grai/. The original, therefore, is inserted in a Note*. " THE HUMAN COUNTENANCE. specimen " ODE TO SELMA. o*' ""^^ "^ Professor I. J<'rant%'cn'^ " The sixth day of time had spread its purple veil I'oems. over the cedar forests: the butterfly, on its golden wings, wafted over murmuring brooks, kissed the rose in its bower. (4) 2)?dmiiffian^ 9hitetc» Obe tir @e(ma» I. JKcban |)min, fin purjjurfTojIa 6fn?er (Jeberffo.qcn |)6)a, Xiben^ fjette ^ag* (SulbBenjingab/ ofirer bdcfen, ^jdritn ffc^ tit tofent^dcf en , 2S() ABO. (IIAP. II. VII. ^ _ . " Orient pearls beamed in the watery mirror : the white sails of the swan shone in the shadowy strait : wine reddened in the grape : the dove, tender and in- nocent, wantoned in the groves of Eden. III. " But Nature's highest beauty was not yet : the crown of Creation was wanted ; until man, from the dust arose, lifted his countenance in the light of day, and his eyes were opened. [It is almost impossible to paraphrase the next stanza : to substitute the word Aurora for Frantzens simple and expressive SOJotijonvobnan, would be forlorn indeed. So also the words ©noil pd fjatten are but feebly rendered by Alpine Snows; the word ^^idl applying to those lofty ridges upon the summits of the highest moun- II. *;pdrtan f f en i wattttct^ fpe.gcl ; .0n?ita, ^Idnflc @tt»ancn^ fcgct, i ct ffu^qgtift funb ; Simt gtobbe rott i brufwan ; Dm oc^ menlo^/ (efte bufwan, uti (gben^ Umb* III. 3)?cn ben f)6.9Jla ffonl)ct felted i naturen— fronan fcltcj^ ann i ffapclfcn ; til bej? 3)?dnniffian ur qrufct i)of fit anlcte i rjufct , hof cpp c.qoncn* ABO. 281 tains, where, as upon Lebanon, the unmeltmg ^yj^^'' snow exhibits a splendid whiteness, that can '*— v — only be conceived in the mind of persons by whom it has actually been beheld.] IV. " The snow of the Fjals was outwhitened : the morn- ing, outreddened, sunk behind the mountains : the star of day hid its diminished lustre. V. " To that up -turned countenance which regarded the firmament, all the animal race paid homage ; to those eyes, where Loves and Graces smiled, and in which immortal Hope beamed through the tears of sorrow. IV. @ncn pa fjdacii ^6a ej fdvgcn 3)?oi'^ont'obnan 6afom 6cv^en f6nf forbimftab mt : @tjenian, fom i ba^cn^ panna fattfaffott, ejt witte flanna bfiver iorben mer* V. ■Diiiven t)i;Uanbe fi<^ bojbc for be p^on, fom jt^ bojbe ifvdn floftct opp ; bcr 6e|)a5 oct) f drtef mt)f?c ; bcv 6lanb fovqcn^ tdvat lt)|le ct obobtigt ()opp» 282 ABO. CHAP. VI. VI I. V- 'v— '' " All the angelic choir saw with amazement the speaking beauty of the new creation, and looked at the Creator ; who impressed it with His own image, beheld His work, and ' saw that it was good'.' vir. " Ye, that consider all things but as results of chance ! hie ye to the fountain, and, having beheld your own visages reflected, blush, and retire. VI. ^In^laffatan flat Betaken, fer be taranbc bd)agix\ , od) pa ©fapatTt fer* ©fapam trprfte jit mfe^el pa jit mvf; od) i bcf fpe^el fcr jin hilt , 06) Ur» VII. 3 font ffrifen : " tiX'ax in^cn fom ^ett otbnin^en at tinmen ; , ©Uimpen fldlbe beni ;" ^amv! erott tU fdttan fti^cii : feencit antete, ocj) ti^^ett, robnen, oc^sait ^em* (1) ** And smiled" would be nearer to the original: but this slight deviation, as appropriated to the language of Scripture, without altering the sense, may pot haps be tolerated. ABC). 283 VIII. CHAP. VII. " Behold the countenance of the sage ! view the image of all that is true, noble, and useful ! Catch a glance from the eye of the hero ! mark the lineaments of courage, grandeur, and sublimity ! IX. " Then look on the face of beauty, gentleness, be- nignity ! Lift my Selma's morning veil from her bloom- ing cheek ! See the tender and bashful expression of her eyes ! Behold the dark ringlets of her hair, flying careless in the wind. VIII. 6e ten gamle 20ife^ pamn : fe en tajTa af bet fmina, a'Ola, m)nlQCi* 6e en 6licf m .^jclten^ o^a : @e et elbbm^ af bet ^'oQa, jlom, btifli^a* IX. Od) bet ffona, mitba, Ijufwa?— £pft min 6etma^ motgonliufwa fmn be^ jjurputfinb* @e be^ o^on : omnia , hl^ga I @e bef morlfa tocfat fTijga, for^loli, for en winb* 284 ABO. CHAP. VII. X. * " "V -'' " O master-pieee of nature ! Link connecting angels with men ! Image of God ! art thou not, Garment of the Soul, destined to follow her into the regions of eternity ? XI. " Yes ! ah, yes ! angels shall themselves be moved by the regard of Selma, when they hear her voice amongst them. My Selma ! In the Hall of Heaven ' — in the valleys of Eden — I shall look on thee !" X. 3}id|ler)f eif uti tiaturen, Idiif ftdii ^Ingtame x\\ bjurcii, ©ubaBcldte ! ©jdteti^ Xox^i tobii^^etcn; Qox tu ej tit m'\Q\)iXiw, ^idiiff jomnete ? XI. 5ldb ! ja : ^'hi^tai* dim ffal rova @e(mfl^ iipfpn ; t>d be l^6m ()cmic^ vof! 6latib jig* 6etma ! dmi i iym\mi famr ^'(nn i (f li;fecii^ Wax, fdv lag^ fe pd big ! % n* (1) In tho originul, " j (jinUcll^ fft(rtV ;" >" which expression we may perhaps recognise, as it were, an involuntary allusion, on the part of a Scandinnvian poet, to the old Gothic mythology of his ancestors, the Valiiai.i.a, m Hall nf Odin. ABO. 285 Many other poems of Professor Fran^^ew lie ^yj^^'" scattered among the almost-forgotten News- '■ »■■ * o papers of j4bo and Stockholm: for the expense of printmg in this country is such a bar to their being collected and published together, that no other printed copies of his works can be referred to. In the ^bo Gazette, called 5l6o Xibning, pub- lished while we were in ^bo, there appeared a long poem, which he also acknoAvledged as his composition^ Without a knowledge of the Swedish language, it is impossible to form any correct idea, either of their merit or demerit. But Professor Frantzen also wrote poetry in the language of Finland, being himself a native of that country : and among the Sivedes he was always esteemed as the best poet they had. In a note to the latest of his poems, which we have now mentioned, he says, that Finland, in the Finska language, is called ©uonii^. After this visit to the Professor of History, we went to the house of the most learned scholar in the University, Henry Gabriel Porthan, one of Ponhnn. (2) The 5lbO ^ibninCJ made its appearance, for the first time, on Wednesday, Jan. S, 1800: Nos. 1 and 2 being published together. It was in these first numbers that we saw this poem by Frantzen, entitled •^inlanb^ Upobfing; m which, speaking of i-'m^nnrf, he says— mina fdbcv^ Bt^gb ! o <^mlanb! ffal omfibcr ^w afu\'n lufta bii^ btaiib jorbctii? Idiibcv opp* 286 A B O. ^^^* the Professors belonging to the Faculty of Philo- ^— y • sophy, and styled, in the Index Prcelectionum of the University, the Regius Professor of Eloquence. o Account of The University of Aho consists of a Chancellor ; tlie Univcr- ^^ in j i • j sity. a Fice- Chancellor ; the Professors, and their ad- juncts ; Magistri Docentes ; and teachers of mo- dern languages, fencing, and music. The Chan- cellor, at this time, was the Count Charles Adam fVachtmeister ; its Vice-Chancellor, Doctor James Gadolin, Bishop of Abo: and the names and titles of all the Professors are given in the Appen- dix to this Volume'. It is usual here, as in other Universities, for those who hold public disputations in the Schools, to read, in Latin, a o written Thesis : which Thesis , however, in Abo, does not necessarily relate to the subject of their public exercise; but being paid for by the Student who keeps the Act, and written by one of the Professors, and afterwards printed, en- ables the Professor, if he choose, thus to pub- lish one of his own Dissertations. We found Professor Porthan engaged in carrying on a work of this kind : and the manner in which he ac- complished it will serve to shew the nature of the obstacles which all the Professors here have to encounter ; wanting those facilities of com- (\) Sep tlio Index Pretlectionum, in the Appendi.r, ABO. 287 munication with the literary world, which are yjj found in Universities endowed with larger funds to defray the expenses of printing works of science. He had prepared a new edition of Bishop Juustens ** Chronicon Episcoporum Firi' landensium,'' illustrated by his own valuable notes ; in which there are frequent allusions to the history and antiquities of Finland. This work he presented to us, in the form of a bundle of printed Theses, which he had thus prepared for the use of the Students': and it is owing to his kindness that the author was able to collect also a series of the Academic Dissertations of the University of Abo, for nearly half a cen- tury". An examination of the principal subjects treated of in these Dissertations will enable the Reader to form for himself a tolerably correct estimate of the state of science in this seminary Ql) This work is thus mentioned in a Note to the "■Specimen Historiee Litterarice Fennicce" one of the Theses printed at Abo, in 1793. " Paulus Juusten auctor est Chronici Episcoporum Finlanden- sium, quod primus vulgavit ill'. Nettelbladt ( Ut ©CvWCDifcpC ^ibliOti^ef , @t^te^ @tUCf » No. 2. p. 62—90.) jam vero iterum cum Annotationibus uberrimis editum a eel. Prof. Porthak, cujus operis xxx Particulffi hucusque prodierunt." — This work being completed at the time of the author's arrival, Professor Porthan presented a copy of it to him ; and the author has since transmitted it to Edinburgh, to be depo- sited in the I.ibrari/ of Advocates there. It is perhaps the only copy of it extant in Great Britain. (2) See the List of the principal Dissertations, given in the Appendix. 288 ABO. CHAP. Qf education for the youth of Finland and Sweden, VII. '' ' — - — ' of which we shall have more to say in the sequel. The fate of such a scholar as Porthan is greatly to be regretted by the literary world ; because, being a native of Finland, and deeply versed in all that related to its history and antiquities, and himself an accomplished scholar, well read in other branches of history and antiquities, he possessed the ability, if he had possessed the means, of giving information to the world upon a subject of all others the least known ; namely, the origin of the Finlanders ' and Laplanders. He spoke the Latin language, as if it had been his mother- tongue ; but with that peculiarity of pro- nunciation belonging to all foreigners, and with a degree of volubility which rendered it some- times difficult to apprehend exactly his meaning. The few facts which were gathered from him, during the frequent conversations we had with him, will of course be stated ; but, from the little we thus gained, we could only be convinced of the extent of the loss sustained by the literary world, in not having better means of apprecia- ting his various acquirements. Abo, interdicted (1) "Nulla enim Illarum, aiit in lapidibus, cippisqiie sepulcralilms, aut in aliis vetustatis monutnciuis, reperiii poUiciunt vestigia." Por- than. Hist. Biblioth. Acad. Ahmhmi.i, p. .3. ABO. 289 from all communication with Petersburg, and chap. VII. having little intercourse even with Stockholm^ ^ — ,- ■* owing to the peculiar circumstances of its situa- tion, cannot be considered as a favourable spot for the interests of literature ; yet such has l)een the merits of its Professors, that some of them, to whom we shall presently allude, have caused their names, in spite of every obstacle, to be heard in the more-favoured walks of o science. The history of j4bo is of considerable antiquity ; but few places have been more liable to vicissitudes, or exposed to greater devasta- tions. During the wars of Sweden and Russia, Disasters it has often been sacked and laid waste : we are ?," ."*^ Abo has not, therefore, to wonder that few monuments ^een liable. of its antient state of dignity are now in exist- ence. Even the bricks of which its buildings consisted, were carried off by the Russians, and taken to Petersburg ; the first-built structures erected in that city being made of the materials o taken from the houses in j4bo. Its bridge, con- II structed over the small river Aeura"^ (which flows through the city, and falls into the Gulph, at the distance of half a Sivedish mile from the place), was once a single arch of stone: but (2) We have written the name of this river correctly : it is pronounced Aura 1 and as jocki, pronounced yocky, signifies ' a small river,* it is called Atira-yucky. YOU XI. U ^ 290 ABO. ^\u^' ^^^^ ^^^ destroyed by the Russians, from whose '■ ■»■■ '' ravages Abo has so often suffered ; and it is now of wood. All the timber which the Russians found upon the spot, among the buildings and elsewhere, they employed in building the galleys with which they removed the spoils of the city. o The earliest account of Abo is contained in the work of Professor Porthan, before mentioned ' ; which, however, it is almost useless to cite, as one copy only of the work exists in Great Bri- tain. It is there stated, that, about the year 1198 of our eera, during the episcopacy of Fol~ quinius, the third in order of the Finland Bishops, Abo was consumed by fire, in consequence of the devastations made by the Rutheni, or Rus- sians; whose practice it always has been, when instigated by the desire of plunder, to set fire to the cities, towns, or villages, liable to their pre- datory warfare * ; by this means forcing the in- habitants to quit their hiding-places, and come (1) His edition of Juusten's " Chronicon Episcoporum Finlanden- sium." See a former Note. (2) " His jam allatis accedit, quod variaD hostium, prevcipue Russorum crudeles in Fennia populationes, non mode multa qua; a privatis hotni- nibus in notitiam posterorum annotata fortassis csscnt, nobis sustulcrint, sed varias etiam coUectioncs veterum documentorum publicas dissipa- verint ac destruxerint." — Specimen Historice Lilteraria; Fennica;, p. 4. Aboa, Tt/pis Frcnckellianis, ABO. 291 forth with their effects '. Notwithstanding its ^^jj^' frequent losses, and the injuries to which it was ' y ' continually exposed, it began to be considered among the chief cities of Sweden so early as the fifteenth century ; carrying on its commerce chiefliy with the Germans'^. But from the year 1198, down to this period, the history of Abo is nothing more than a catalogue of disasters, conflagrations, and catastrophes of every de- scription. Heaven and earth seemed to com- bine for its destruction ; for after being three times totally destroyed by common fire, it was in the year 1458 destroyed by lightning. After this, in 1473, it was again burned down. In 1509, it was sacked and burned by the Danes\ Three successive conflagrations followed, in the (3) In this manner they burnt the city of Moscow, in the moment of its capture by the French army: and it has aflforded an amusing lesson of the wretched shifts of party in this country, in observing the eagerness with which, after accusing the French soldiers of this act of plunder, a few artful Politicians, who maintain any opinion for interested purposes, suddenly veered round, and endeavoured to establish a belief that the turning of Moscoiv was a sublime example of loyalty and patriotism on the part of the Russians, Loyalty and Patriotism among slaves AND THIEVES ! ! ! Mention this act of Loyalty and Fairiolism, Reader ! in Moscow, and see how the Russians themselves will laugh at thy credulity ! (4) PoRTHAN, in Annotationibus ad ChronicoJi Ju:am er improvise occuparet, totamque urbem hostiliter dissiperet, Ecclesiam Cathedralem multis pretiosis rebus et clinodiis quam pluiiuiis spoliando, et quod hie prajcipue nominandum, libros meliores auferrent Duii ; qua clade funesta, magnam quoque partem conquisitorum hinc inde littera- riorum moniinentorum res patrias illustrantium periisse, dubio caret." Specimen Hist. Litt. Fenniccc, p,4. Aboce, Typis Frenckelltanis. U 2 292 ABO. CHAP, years 1546, I54g, and 1552; and as often re- V .y- ' duced the city to ashes. After such a series of calamities, we may in vain looii for traces of the magnificent ornaments Cathedral, oncc lavished upon its Cathedral. These have entirely disappeared : but the structure itself, " PER TOT DISCRIMINA KERUM," marVclloUsly remains, and still constitutes the principal ob- ject of curiosity in the place. The style of ar- chitecture observed in the interior is Gothic, but the outside exhibits a pile of plain brickwork. The roof is of the most chaste Gothic ; that is to say, simple and unadorned, without the intri- cate combinations and traces of the florid Gothic; but plain, elegant, light, and lofty. The man- ner in which light is thrown in from side-windows among the arches produces a pleasing delusion. To a person standing at the altar, and regarding the whole length of the nave, not a window is visible ; and yet strong masses of light and sha- dow, powerfully contrasted with each other, are displayed with wonderful art and effect, such as we had not seen in any similar fabric : which is the more remarkable, as the notion prevalent o in ^bo is, that this cathedral was built by an English architect '. The altar, the principal (1) Tliib was also afterwards noticed by another traveller, Mr, Robert Ki'r ABO. 293 ais e, and various parts of the building, were S^rf *^' crowded with wretched paintings; most . 9. ABO. 297 gratitude. Another public benefactor to the city died, as it is said, in such extreme poverty in Jlbo, that the sexton refused to toll the knell for his decease, because no one would engage to pay him for so doing. We repeated our visit to this Cathedral, interesting Cippus, in There is no building in all Scandinavia more the ckorus 'Totlianus. worth seeing. The best view of its beautiful roof is from the altar. On the right-hand, in the eastern part of the nave, close to the entrance of the chancel, is a small sepulchral shrine belonging to the Tott family, called Chorus Tottianus; which contains a monument of such singular interest, that we were surprised to find no mention made of it by any of the travellers who have preceded us in this route. It is nothing less than the tablet erected to the memory of Catharine, wife of Eric XIV., whose remarkable history we shall presently allude to. The mouldering reliques of her once beautiful form lie deposited in a vault below. This shrine, or chapel, is fenced with iron gates : within appears a magnificent marble monument, erected to the memory of Count Achatiiis Tott, grandson of Catharine, and his second wife Christina Brahe. Their effigies, of the size of life, marvellously well sculptured for the age in which they were executed, are placed upon a 289 ABO. CHAP, cenotaph ; the bodies being in oak coffins > — v—^-' covered with tin, in the vault beneath; together with those of Catharine, and Sigrid her daughter by Eric XIV., the mother of Achatius Tott. Owing to their relationship to Eric XIV., the ignorant verger had confounded their history, and shewed the two statues of Count Achatius and Christina as those of Eric and Catharine. There are, moreover, two pictures, whole lengths, of the same persons, placed above the monument, painted in Fandykes manner. The face of Christina expresses a degree of mildness bordering upon melancholy. She was evidently one of the beauties of her day, rather below the middle stature, with delicate features, fair complexion, and light hair. In her hand she statuesand holds a plumc of fcathcrs. In viewing these statues and pictures, we seemed to be admitted into the midst of Eric^ family ; and only wished we could have made them open their mouths, and tell us a little more truth than historians have done concerning this monarch and his family. The marble effigy of Achatius Tott represents him in complete armour : and the two figures of himself and Christina are evidently portraits, from the minute attention to accuracy which the sculptor has shewn in all that relates to their persons and habits. The monument ABO. 299 was erected in 1688 ; and we found one of the chap. . , . . . VII. four columns belonging to it thus inscribed with <„, «,— ^ the artist's name: " Peiruz Schuliz, S.R. Sculptor , invent t et fecit T In the figure of Achatius Tott we recognised the genuine costume of the country; ?i Scandinavian custom of letting the hair grow so as almost to obscure the eyes on the two sides of the face, falling to the shoulders on either side, and lying quite flat upon the top of the head. This practice may be observed over all Sweden and Finland. There is a regi- ment of cavalry in the Sivedish service, in which this costume is remarkably preserved ; the officers and men wearing their hair in two long braids, which hang like pig-tails, one on each side of the face, in front of the ears, fastened, at their extremities, with clasps of lead. This is a national observance, attended to with as much scrupulous devotion, as among the Tcher- nomorski Cossacks the preservation of a single braided lock of hair, which extends from the crown of the head, and is worn tucked behind the ear. Nothing can be conceived less becom- ing than the two side-locks of the Sivedes ; but they give a certain degree of martial fierceness to the countenance, which perhaps may explain the reason why the antient Britons, and other barbarous tribes, adopted the same practice. 300 ABO. CHAP. VII. Over the cenotaph are placed the armorial ensii^jns of the two families of To// and Brake; and above all appears the image of our Saviour, with the cross, between the figures of two angels'. But that which possesses a greater degree of (1) This is the Inscription upon the Monument of Achalius Tott : it is in capital gilded letters : — " Illustrissimi Herois ac Domini, D : ni Achatii Toll, Comitis de Carleborg, Liberi Baronis de Sjundeby, Domini in Ekholmsuiul, Lehals- Lahn, Liuxala, et Gerkenaes, Equitis aurati, Regni Sveciae Senatoris et Campi-Mareschalli ; natalis annus, a reddita salute m.d xcviii. dies iv, mensis Junii, locus aula Gerkenaes Nylandia fuit. Mortalitatemque rursus post vitara. rebus domi atque foris, in aula et bello praeclare gestis, "Gdstavo Magno, Rcgum exemplari, magna ex parte consecratam, A:o ■M.DC.XL. die XV Julii, Eetatis ultra quadragesium biennio in aula sua Lafwila Parochise Euraminne exuit. Facta non vicini solum, et quos arma Patria attigere stupent, sed Italus pariter et Iberus atque Galli loquntur. Ita post annorum a prima eetate complurium militiam in insigni Com\Us> Jacobi de la Gardie, Regni Mar'schi per Moscoviam expe- ditione incepta, et inde Regis contra Polonuni in Borussia auspiciis continuatam, ac denique interjecta in castra exterorum peregre transcur- sione etiam sub Augusto Bello Sveco-Germanico probatam, dignus, cui primarium in militia Campi-Mareschalli munus, et cum exercitu delecto a^endi plena daretur potestas, quam in Saxonia inferiori exerceret, a Maximo Rege habitus, in Poraerania; Ducatibus, Gryphisvalda, Wismaria, et Rostochio, in Bremensi, Stada, et Boxtahuda, locis munitissimis occu- patis, cxercitum Ctesareum eis partibus penitus profligavit. Hrec inter Equitis aurati splendor ipsi a summo virtutum fpstimatore tributus, hinc Senatoria in victrici Regno dignitas, et post fata quoque Comitatus honos additus. Genus ipsi Paternum ex familia Svecia; Daniacque a multis retro sxculis inulto celeberrima, Regibiisque cognata. Matorno pariter Filia Erici XIV. Regis Svecia; legitiina, Gonetrice clarus. Bis maritus ; primas cum illustrissima Domina Sisride Jijelkc, contraxit nuptias, atque ex ea filii, Comitis Claudii Tott, virtutibus, qua toga, qua sago inclyti parens; secundis, illustrissimai Domimv, T) : nx C/iristin death did not happen until forty-four years after her coronation : but the first part of this interval was to her a period of tempestuous trouble, for the very year of her coronation was that of her husband's dethronement. Beside her re- mains, there are also here, preserved in coffins of brass, oak, and wood, faced with tin, the remains of other members of the Tott Family, with Swedish inscriptions ; which, however, are so nearly English, that any English reader, accustomed to Scottish- English, or Old English, might understand their meaning. For an ex- ample, we shall give the legend which appears in capital letters upon the coffin of Sigrid, king Eric the Fourteenth's daughter, by Catharine, who also lies buried here. The coffin is of wood, faced with tin-plate. SIGRID, KONUNG ERIC DEN FJORTONDES DOTTER, FRU TIL LJUXALA, SJUNDEBY, OCH GERCKENAES, BLEF FODD ANNO MDLIV OCH ASSOMNADE I HERRANOM PA LJUXALA GARD DEN XXIV APRILIS ANNO MDCXXXIIL We had some hope of discovering other his- torical information connected with the state of 304 ABO. ^y^^' Stveden during the period of Erics> sufferings **— ^^ ' after his deposition, upon being permitted to scripts pre- cxamiue the contents of a brazen chest which served in a , ^ • .1 • i brazen was shcwn to US, withiu a wooden covering, '^° ^'' and which contains several manuscripts written upon parchment. They consisted, however, of documents which perhaps will only interest the Sivedish antiquaries. We shall briefly notice them in the order of their dates. — The first is an Epicedium upon the funeral of Catharine, wife of Eric XIV, in 1612. The second, an Epicedium upon the re-interment of her daughter Sigrid, written in i635, when her body was removed from the church o{ Randamaltensi to the Cathedral at Abo. The third is an Epithalamium, in the German language, upon the marriage of Achatius Tott with Christina Brahe, the seventh of October, 1638. The fourth gives an account of the heroic deeds of Achatius Tott; and the solemnities observed at his funeral, September 29, l640. The fifth is the patent of nobility granted to his son Claudius Tott, by Queen Christina, March 20, 1652. The sixth, with thirteen signets annexed to it, dated Ekholmsund, November 6, 1639, is nothing less than tlie dowry granted by Achatius Tott to his second wife, Christina Brahe. Few persons perhaps would have bestowed ABO. 305 the same pains that we did, in ransacking the ^^^/' chambers of the dead for historical information '. .■>- » connected with the history of such a gloomy otEHc'^ superstitious tyrant as Eric XIV. ; for whose "'^"* bad character some writers seem anxious to apologise, by pointing out a few brilliant points that appeared amidst its dark shades ; and also by maintaining, that the charges brought against him were calumnies invented to justify the con- duct of his brothers, by whom he was dethroned and imprisoned '. It is just possible that his faults were extenuated by those writers who lived under his successors ; and perhaps crimes were attributed to him of which he was never guilty : as, in the history of our English Kings, we find a remarkable instance in the odium cast upon the character of Richard the Third, by the historians who endeavoured, by their calumnies, to gratify his mean successor, Henry the Seventh'", (1) " II y a neanmoins beaucoup d'Ecrivaiiis qui font passer ces accu- sations pour des calomnies. lis pretendent qu'elles ont ete en partie inventees pour justifier la conduite des Dues ses freres, et en partie repandues par les parens de Joran Peerson, afin de rejeter sur la per- sonne du Roi les crimes de ce Ministre." — Hist, de Suede, par Puffendorf, tome II. p. 3. Amst. 1743. (2) Shakspeare has not exempted himself from the list of these : and many of our erroneous notions of Richard the Third's character are owing to prejudices founded on the calumnies with which our great poet sought to gratify Henry the Seusnth's grand-daughter, Elizabeth. Setting aside all the arguments adduced by Buck, whom Ilapin charges with partiality, there is one observation concerning Richard the Third, which has escaped VOL. XI. X ^"""' 306 ABO. CHAP, and the members of that family. But, in view- VII. . , . . . ' _■ •' ing the annals of Erics reign, a sensation of in- dignant regret is always excited, when we read the story of those deeds of blood by which the whole race of the Stures were exterminated. It is impossible to exculpate Eric ; because one of these innocent victims was immolated, and in the most cowardly manner, by his own hand'. In his character, Eric XIV. seems most to have re- sembled Paul of Russia — a wretched compound of superstition, perfidy, lust, and cruelty ; and, with all these vices, occasionally irritated by flights of insanity ^ But the story of Erics career Sacon, in the beginning of his Life of Henry the Seventh ,- speaking, as it were, volumes : — " Quanquum autem FrincepsJ'uisset in militari virtute probatus, atque honoris Anglici assertor strentius, legislator item bonus, in levamen et solatium vulgi." Vid. Histor. Regni Regis Henricl Sept. vol.V. p. 6. Amst. 1662. And with regard to the contrast exhibited in Richard's successor, how admirably is it displayed by llapin's delineation of the Royal Miser; the very personification of Avarice — tall, lank, with a long and thin face, lean like the rest of his body, and a countenance exciting fear and distrust. (1) See the account of his vile stratagems for the extermination of the noble family of the Stures ; one of whom, Nils Sture, he stabbed with a poignard, when rising from his bed in prison; who drawing the wea- pon from tlie wound, kissed it, and presented it to his murderer : — and all the rest were cruelly massacred. " Carcerem invadens Nicolai Sture, in lecto jacentera, et sibi reverenter assurgentem, proprio sauciavitpugione. Quern Nicolaus ex gravi pectoris vulnere protiniis extractum, et osculo humiliter tactum, percussori obtulit, indeque furens Princeps nonnihil mitigatus abiit."' Chronol. Scond. apud Messenium, torn. VI. p. 44. Stockholm, 1700. (2) " Non diffiteor rcgem Ericum quandoque parum sani fuisse cerebri ; sed istud per intervalla delirium quidain alii, velut hajreditariam a matre, simili mentis vitio nonnimquam laborante, contractam reputant labeculam." Ibid. p. 56. ABO. 307 has never been either fully or fairly told ' : and it chap. is rather remarkable, that our knowledge should be so imperfect of the life of a sovereign Prince, the v^^ooer at once both of Queen Elizabeth and ofikfan/ Queen of /5co^**. Piiffendorf h?LS collected very little upon the subject ; and the more ori- ginal sources, to which we have referred, do not supply the deficiency. At least a dozen romances might be written upon the subjects of Erics amorous adventures. His amours with Catha- rine, when related with a due attention to truth, have all the air of a romance. She was the daughter of a peasant of Medelpad, and gained a livelihood, when a child, by selling nuts in the market at Stockholm^ Here Eric first saw her ; and, being struck by her beauty, had her brought to the palace ; where she was taken into the ser- vice, and brought up under the auspices, of his (3) There is a History of Ekic XIV. by (Haf Celsius ; and the works of Loccenius and Messenius may be referred to ; but the accounts of the Swedish history, at this period, are, for the most part, jejune. (4) Puffendorf ascribes the chief part of Eric's bad conduct to the evil counsels of one Peersnn, his favourite. His secretary, Helsing, endeavouring to put himself upon his guard against following Peerson's advice, was stabbed by the king with his own hand. — Hist, de Suede, tome I. p. 438. Amst. 1745. (5) "Erat Catharina humili admodum genere propagata, utpote filia cujusdam Magni, agricolis nati parentibus, in Medelpadia, qui decurionis nactus officium, inter praesidiarios castri Stockholmensis milites, eo migra- vit, ubi filia tenuem parentum sustentationem quopiam simul lucello alleviatura, in fbro nuces escario habuit venales."— CArrmo/. Scond. apiid Messenium, torn. VI, p. 56. Stockh. 1700. x2 308 ABO. VII CHAP, sister, the Princess Elizabeth'. As she grew u|), he fell so desperately in love with her, that she was suspected, by the people of that age, of having given to him a love-potion'^. After his deposition, little is known either of her or of his history, except that his own sufferings were in some degree proportioned to his enormous oifences. Among the different dungeons in which he was confined, he was for some time o incarcerated in Abo-hus, a fortress at the mouth of the river upon which Abo is situate^ : and o there is a record of her death and burial at Abo, A.D. l6l2j in the valuable work of Messenius* ; the only allusion, perhaps, made to her in his- (1) "In GynecsBO deinceps principis ElizabethcB liberaliter profecto ^ducabatur." Chron. Scond. apud Messenium, ibid, (2) " Quamquam nonnulli existiment, quodam regem Ericum philtro a Catharind propinato, imprimis usque amantem ipsius evasisse, etpostea redditum inde amentem." Ibid. o (5) " The castle, in the language of the country called Abo-hus, is situated at the north of the river Aura, upon a cape bounded on three sides by the water. This is one of the most antient fortresses of the land. It was well fortified under the kings Albre€ht, Charles VIII., Knutson, and Gustavus Vasa. Besides four towers, which were destined to oppose the approach of an enemy to the harbour, it had on the south side a high wall, with a triple rampart of earth, and a double ditch. A new building has been added to the old structure, but in a different style of masonry. ylbo-hUs was the residence of Duke John, and the prison of Eric XIV. in the sixteenth century." — Acerbi's Travels, vol. I.;). 214. Lond. 1802. (4) " MBCxn. Callturina, regis Erici vidua, hoc tempore clausit vit« periodum, Abogije sepulta." — Epitome Chronol. Scond. apud Messen. ed^i FeringskiUd, torn. XV. ;;. 156. Stockholm, 1703. ABO. 309 tory, after her husband's dethronement, which chap. happened forty-four years before, on the 28th <■ y -' of September 1568. In a room adjoining the Sacristy are huddled together all the images and symbols of supersti- tious mummery, which belonged to the Cathe- dral when it was a place of Roman-Catholic worship; — doubtless, therefore, before the whole-length portraits of Luther and Melancthon Portraits adorned this building, which are now seen in and ^J*^ the principal aisle. That of Luther has this ^""<^^^"'«- inscription : DOCTOR MARTINUS LUTHERUS VIVIT. PESTIS ERAM VIVUS MORIENS ERO MORS TUA PAPA. 1684.. Upon that of Melancthon are these words : MAGISTER PHILIPPUS MELANCTHON. ROM. VIII. 31 SI DEUS PRO NOBIS, QUIS CONTRA NOS ? ANNO 1684. Over one of the doors is a dlded wooden image of "-" Henry the image of St. Henry the Martyr; which the re- Martyr. forming Iconoclasts have suffered to remain in its original position, as being the effigy of the Patron Saint of Finland, the first preacher of the Gospel 310 ABO. CHAP. VII. in this country. In former times, such was the reverence entertained with respect to this image, that it was only exhibited upon days of public festivity. The old shrine which inclosed it still remains, together with the doors once folded over it. Many things within this venerable pile serve to call to mind the desolating hand of war, which has so often ravaged this part of Finland, From its very situation, Abo will always be liable to commotion, so long as the possession of the rich corn territories, the forests, and lakes of Finland, may invite a struggle between the contending interests of Sweden and Russia. Accordingly, the memorials of those warriors who have fallen in these struggles are the first things to strike a spectator in his visit to the Cathedral. Swords, with crape-covered handles, are seen suspended from the walls ; and many a long wordy legend, upon the tombs by which he is surrounded, speak — — — — " Tales of iron wars ; Of sallies and retires ,• of trenches, tents, Of palisadoes, frontiers, parapets ; Of basilisks, of cannon, culverin ; Of prisoners' ransom, and of soldiers slain, And all the currents of a heady fight." It would far exceed the limits of a traveller's journal to notice all the other monuments in this ABO. 311 Cathedral, and to copy their inscriptions. Some ^yj^^' of them, however, are well worthy of notice ; ' r— ' especially one of black marble, representing, upon a triclinium, the sculptured cumbent effigies of a warrior and his wife'. The most antient chapeiof monument in the Cathedral is the Sepulchral Bishop of Chapel, erected, as the inscription tells, by ^^°' o Olaus, a Bishop of Abo, in 1425 ; who lies buried here with the members of his family. This is the inscription : — %mo S> : ni mct^^tj 2)?a3nu^ O\0ii c : ^>u^ fecit fieri The account of his death is also preserved in the following inscription, upon a brass plate : ANNO DOMINI M.CCCC.LII. DIE IX. MENSIS MARTII OBIIT REVERENDUS IN CHRISTO PATER ET DOMINUS, D: NUS MAGNUS o D. G. EPISCOPUS ABOENSIS, HUJUS CAPELL^E FUNDATOR, QUI SEDIT ANNOS QUADRAGINTA. Then, upon the same plate, follows ; ANNO DOMINI M.C.D.LX. DIE XXIV. MENSIS FEBR. OBIIT REVERENDUS IN CHRISTO PATER AC DOMINUS OLAVUS, D. G. EPISCOPUS ABOENSIS. ORATE PRO ISTIS ET CETERIS CHRISTI FIDELIBUS, UT REQUIEM HABEANT CUM BEATIS. (l) Thorsten StShlhnndsk, and Christina Horn. 312 ABO. ^y/t^' All these had the addition Tavast to their " — V— ' names, as a surname ; the first being called Magnus Olaus Tavast; and the second, Olaus Henricus Tavast, who is mentioned in the Chronicle of Juustenius as having instituted an altar and mass in the Cathedral of j4bo, in honour of the Eleven Thousand Virgins. We were also shewn an inscription commemorating a warrior of the same family, by the name simply of Olaus Tavast, who was also buried here : ' AlSfllO DOMINI M.CCCC.LXI. CRASTINO Ft I PETRI DE CATHEDRA NOBIL. VIR OLAVUS TAVAST, MILES HOC OBIIT : ORATE PRO EO. Monument ^j^j formerly were seen here the marble effisrv of a Scotch '' ^'' Officer. and cenotaph of Samuel Cockburne, a Scotch officer in the Swedish service, who fought under Charles the Ninth and Gustavus jidolphus ; the latter of whom honoured the funeral of this brave officer with his royal presence, being at that time in Finland. The place of this effigy was pointed out to us, as being now concealed by another tomb. The inscription however remains. (I) This Inscription is no longer in tlie Cathedral. A copy of it was given to me by Professor Porthan. ABO. 313 D. SAMUELI COCKBURNO SCOTO, DUCI FORTISSIMO, DUORUM EXERCITUUM CHILIARCH/E PRZESTANTISSIMO, TOTIUSQUE SVECICI EXERCITUS SUMMO MAJORI, QUI POST- QUAM MUSARUM CASTRA CUM LAUDE SECUTUS ESSET, IN PELLO SUB AUGUSTISSIMIS CAROLO ET GUSTAVO ADOLPHO SVEC. GOTH. VANDAL. REGIBUS FCELICITER VIXIT ANNOS XXIII, ET PIE IN PACE MORTUUS EST ANN. iETATIS SU^ XLVII. CHRISTI MDCXXI. JOAN. FRATER MCERENS POSUIT. " COCKBURNE VIXTI FORTIS, AST OBIS FERUS, MARTEM ET MINERVAM TECUM QUI CONDIS UNO IN SEPULCHRO, QUO NON SCOTl TRISTIUS, 6VECI AUT VIDEBUNT, NEC POLONI LyETIUS." We have now noticed whatever appeared to us to be the most remarkable objects of curiosity in this building. There are, it is true, various other sepulchres of bishops and warriors, the former saints and heroes of the country; men famous in their generations : but their names hardly now remain to swell the catalogue of the verger or sexton who conducts strangers visiting the structure. One thing more remains to be described. At the western extremity of the Cathedral, and within its walls, is the Library of University the University ; to which our attention will now ' ^^^' be entirely directed. An account of it, written by Professor PoriAaw, was printed at Abo, in the form and manner we have before mentioned, as 314 ABO. CHAP, adopted by him for the publication of his works '. s — , — ' The collection is contained in three rooms, and the books are in excellent order. The establishment of this Library dates nearly with the foundation of the University ^ in 1 640, under the minority of Christina, daughter of Gustavus jidolphus, who succeeded to the throne of Sweden at the age of six years, upon the death of her father at the battle of Lutzen^. The whole (1) " Historia BibliotheccE R. Academice Aboensis, disputationibus publicis XXIII. A. 1771 — 1787. proposita, ab Henrico Gabriel Portkan, Eloqu. Prof. R. et 0. Aboee, Typis Frenckellianis." This work the author has also deposited in the University Library at Cambridge. (2) Many writers, and, among others, the authors of the Voyage de Deux Franqais, have mentioned that the Library and University were founded at the same time : but this is not strictly true. " Condita hie An, Dn. 1640. felicibus auspiciis, favore Reginse, Litterarum amantissimae, &c. celebri Christinaea Academia (confer, ut cceteros multos taceam o . . o ' Wexionii Nalciles Academice Aboensis, et Bilmark, Hist. Acad. Aboensis 1. c. § 3.) mox desiderabatur, Musis recens hue translatis, voluptatem, usum, suppetiasque praebitura Bibliotheca bene instructa j" &c. observes Professor Portkan ; but he afterwards adds, " Tradunt viri de Historia Patriae summis meritis clarissimi, Reginam idcirco statim post conditam Academiam, Bibliothecam quoque hie fundasse regalique mactasse muni- ficentia : sed haec verba stricte nimis non sunt interpretanda ; nihil enim primis sex annis nova Academia accepit, liberalitate Regia, librorum," &c. Vide Hist. Biblioth. Acad. ^c. p. 10. (5) Upon the 26th o( November, 1632, Puffendorf suspected that this great and good king was assassinated by Franqois Albert, Duke of Saxe- Lauwenbourg ; an opinion warmly contested by his French Editor {see torn. II. ;). 259, Note (l). Amst. 1743). The words of Puffendorf are : *' On parte fort divcrsement de la manicre dont il fut tud. Cejiendant, par les circnnstanccs on pent juger avec beaucoup de vraiscmblance, que dans la confusion le mime Due de Saxe-Lauwenbourg lui donna le coup par derriire." ABO. 315 collection of books amounts to 10,000 volumes, chap. VII. and the annual revenue of the Library does not ». ^. > exceed 120 rix-dollars. There are few things in this Library of any general importance : but when we consider the situation in which they are placed, we cannot pass by the notice of those Codices which the ^bo Professors regard as its most valuable ornaments ; especially as the increasing power and obvious views of such dangerous neighbours as the Russians render it very doubt- ful whether any traces of them may long remain. A Catalogue raisonnS of the Manuscripts will be found in Professor Porthans History of this Library*. We shall, of course, notice only the most remarkable. 1 . The first is a Greek MS., in folio, of Melius, Manu- scriDts* a Greek physician \ It is fairly written upon paper; and contains the 8th, gth, loth, nth, 12th, and 13 th books of this author; of whose writings only the eighth, and some chapters of the ninth book, have hitherto been published in the original Greek. 2. A MS. of Seneca, elegantly written upon vellum, in the beginning of the fifteenth century. (4) See Hist, Bihlioth. Acad. Aboeyisis, as before cited. (5) AETIOT 'Ayr;a;^£a;j larfiou trt^i ^laynuiritu; Kctl h^a'Ttiies tudi voirn- ftdravy Xoyoi s^, urori v?v ai? wen ixriTv-zsa/ftevoi, 316 ABO. ^vn^* ^' ^ ^*°^^° '^^' o^^^^^^'^ ^^ Oratore, elegantly V — V — but inaccurately written upon paper, at Bologna, in the year 1451. 4. A folio MS. of Cicero's Ora^/on^, negligently written upon vellum. 5. A folio MS. upon vellum, elegantly written, of Petrarch and Boccaces Lives of Illustrious Men and Women. 6. A fine folio MS., upon vellum, of Justinian, with copious marginal annotations, beautifully written, and in high preservation. 7. Peter Olaus, his Chronicle of the Kings of Sweden, a folio MS., fairly written, upon paper, in the Swedish language. There are, in all, eighty-six volumes of Manu- scripts : but the list includes Missals, Bibles, Kordns, and a few other Oriental Manuscripts, together with many curious Codices which relate to Swedish and Russian history. There is also a Map of Japan, given to the Library by Count ^Iric Schejffer, which Porthan calls *' rarum Bib- liothecce nostrce cimelium\'' The authors of the Fbyage de Deux Francais, by whom none of these Codices were noticed, mention only one manu- script, in their short account of this Library : and although we give them full credit for their (1) Hist. Biblioth.'p.2l4. ABO. 317 statement, it so happened that we did not see chap. the work to which they allude ^ ' — , — - Among the Typographical rarities, we saw ^^^If^' only the following as worthy of the smallest Rarities, notice : 1. Terentius. Argent. 1496. folio, cum fig. 2. Cicero, Queest. Tuscul. cum comment. Phil. Beroaldi. Venet. fol. 1499. 3. Horatii Flacci Opera, cum annotat. imagini- busque. Argent, fol. 1498. 4. Persius. Venet. fol. 1495. 5. Juvenalis Satyrce. Venet. fol. 1494. 6. Seneca. Venet. fol. 1492. 7. M. Fab a Quintiliani Oral. Institut. Libri Xll. sine anno et loco editionis. Fol. Literse initiales adpictee sunt, et quaedam auro ornatafc. 8. JulH Firmici j4stronomicorum Libri XIII. &c. Venet. fol. in asdibus Aldi,l499. 9. Boethius. Colon, fol. 1482. 10. Ploiinus. Florent. fol. 1492, (2) "On nous y a montre un Manuscrit [in folio, de 1341 pages j intitule: Proce s-verbal d''une commission nommSe in 1676, et sentences qui ont eti prononcees sur lies male/ices et des mngiciennes, ecrit en Su^dois, de la main d'Andr^ Engman, notaire de la dite commission : il manque quelques feuilles au commencement." — Voyage de Deux Franqais dans le Nord de V Europe. Tome II. p. 510. a Paris, 1796. 318 ABO. ^y^' 11' Dialogus Creaturarum Moralizatus, 4to.' **— V ' 12. Missale Obense. Lubeck, 1588, with wood- cuts. Of this work only two copies are extant. The other is at Upsala, and is not perfect. Besides these, there are some curious Latin Bibles, printed in the fifteenth century; and many others with dates prior to the year 1500. Among them we observed a copy of JSsop, in large octavo, with the date l4go; but no men- tion made of the place where it was printed. We saw also some curious old books of Travels to the Holy Land and other Eastern Countries, from the Venetian Press, dated 1518, and 1519, and in the Italian language. This Library is (1) The first work printed in Sweden. They shew another copy of it at Upsala, as we before noticed. Concerning this volume, Professor Porthan, in his History of the Library*, remarks : " Quoniara laesum est hoc exemplum (figuris rudissimis, coloribus etiam allinitis, ornare opus editor voluit), ct ultima imprimis folia desunt, non possumus certoquidem hactenus detinire, (quod alias editiones cum hac comparand! non fuit potestas,) utrum editio sit Stoclcholmensis a Joh. Snell impressa, an ea antiquior Coloniensis a. 1481, industria et impensis Conradi de Hom- broch e prelo emissa : sed pro Stockholmcnsi tamen potius habendam putamus." At the end of the volume, however, we found this manu- script note : *' In pagina ultima ha;c leguntur verba. Prses. (Prsesensv liber. Dialogus Creaturarum appellatus jocundis fabulis plenus ; im- pressus per Johannem Snell, artis impressoria; magistrum — in Stock/iolm inceptus, et munere Dei finitus est. Anno Domini 1.4.8.3. ]\Iensis Decembris." * Hist. Bibliolh. p. 226. Note (d). ABO. 319 VII. well stocked with good editions of the Greek and ^^,^^* Latin Classics, with the Writings of the Fathers, books of Jurisprudence, books of Natural History (including the famous Dariish work on Shells, the Flora Danica, and most of our best Writers upon this subject), Medicine, the Mathematics, Geography, History, Antiquities, Voyages, and Boohs of Travels, &c. &c. A few other English Authors caught our attention, as almost tempting us to inquire by what accident they came there. Among them we saw Bacons History of Henry VII.; Camden s Queen Elizabeth; Rapins History of England; Carringtons Life and Death of Oliver Cromwell; History of Charles the Second, by a person of quality; Wallace" s Account of the Orkney Isles; Martins Western Islands of Scotland; &c. &c. A volume of Sacred Songs, prepared for the use of the Churches in Lapland, and printed in the Siuedish language, in octavo, at Stockholm, in 1619, will shew, by its title, how very nearly allied the languages are of England and Sweden, in many instances. It was called, " En liten Sangebok" — a little Song Book. With these few observations, perhaps, the Reader will have as much information as he may wish to possess, respecting the Public Library of this University : but if he should be anxious for more, it mav be afforded him, by reference to a quarto volume, 320 ABO. CHAP. VII. Public Edifices. Theatrum Anatomi- cum. Auditory of Dispu- tations. written upon this subject alone, by the celebrated Professor who so kindly assisted us in our own researches'. The principal public edifices of the Univer- sity are most curiously made a part of the Cathedral; being situate within its walls. Be- sides the Library now described, pursuing the same wall, we came to the Anatomical Schools {Theatrum Anatomicum,) and the Public Auditory, or Chamber, in which the Disputations are held. It was intended that, in the ensuing spring, a hand- some building should be erected, for the purpose of containing the Library, and all other Collec- tions belonging to the University. A plan for the form of this new structure was shewn to us : it was to consist of a front with two wings, disposed according to the three sides of a paral- lelogram, in this manner : Front fiiT the Library. in the side wings were to be Public Lecture- (1) See Professor Porthan't Work, as before cited. ABO. 321 rooms, and Repositories for Cabinets of Natural chap. History, &c. * v— ' Being afterwards introduced to the celebrated Professor of Chemistry, John Gadolin, he had ^'fj^Sr the kindness to shew to us the collection of Minerals belonging to the University. We have before mentioned the neglect visible in other national collections of mineralogy belonging to Siveden; and there is nothing in this to exempt it from the remarks we then made. The Pro- S'Se" fessor who has the care of it, a man of great ^°^^' and renowned talents, has done all he could for its improvement ; but it is, after all, a wretched heap of trash. The most remarkable specimens which we saw in this collection, were, a mass of the famous Siberian Iron, supposed to be meteoric, discovered by Pallas near the banks of the river Jenisei; and some fine examples of the curious mineral which bears Professor Gadolins own name, and in which he discovered the remark- able substance called Yttria. Some specimens of the Gadolinite were said by him to contain as much as forty per cent, of Yttria'^. Perhaps there may have been, in this collection, other (2) Professor Gadolin, at this time, estimated the proportion of Yttria as equal to two-fifths of the mass; but, according to E/ceberg's analysis of Gadolinite, some varieties of it contain 55.5 of Yttria, besides 4.5 of Glucina. VOL. XI. Y 322 A BO. Professor Hellenius, Botanic Garden. minerals worth notice ; but the quantity of use- less lumber with which we found it encumbered, and the want of a proper arrangement, prevented our further examination of its contents. The collection of Botany^ under the care and superintendence of Professor Hellenius, was very differently characterized. It is by far the most perfect thing of its kind in Sweden, not excepting that at JJpsala, both with regard to the rarity and number of the plants, and the beautiful and lucid order in which they are kept and arranged. In looking over the Catalogue, we were sur- prised to find an addition made to every genus ; containing, in some instances, twenty or thirty non-descript plants, hitherto undetermined^ and therefore anonymous. The Professor himself conducted us to the Botanic Garden, which we found to be small, but in the highest state of cultivation. In the green-houses, we saw some plants from the Cape of Good Hope, which were in flower, and as healthy as if they had been growing in their proper soil. A visit to this garden is sufficient to shew the lovers of botany what may be accomplished by economy and talents. The annual fund for its support did not exceed thirty pounds of our money ; but in its produce, and in all things necessary for the advancement of botanical studies, especially in ABO. 323 CHAP. VII. the genius and abilities of its Professor, Abo, little as it is known in the world at large, may vie with the most celebrated Universities. One circumstance, mentioned to us by the Professor, seemed very miaccomitable ; namely, the diffi- culty of rearing the Lapland plants. Very few plants brought from that country will flourish here ; and yet the climate and soil seem nearly allied to those of the Arctic regions. It is fur- ther remarkable, that with the Siberian plants they have no difficulty whatsoever. In England, we experienced the difficulty of rearing plants from seeds collected in Lapland ; but the great difference of climate and soil may explain the cause '. After this visit to the Botanic Garden, Pro- iMiemus's Private fessor Hellenius shewed to us his Library, and Collection. private collection of Natural History. His orni- thological cabinet afforded us a very gratifying sight, as it contained all the rarer birds of Scan- (1) All the attempts made to rear the different species of La;j/anrf Fedicularis, in the Botanic Garden at Cambridge, were without success. The seed of the Fedicularis Sceptrum Carolinum, which we collected in a mature state, and forwarded, for greater expedition, in letters to Eng- land, did not afterwards germinate. Yet we have seen this majestic plant, in the north of Sweden, bearing its exuberant blossoms, and flourishing, to the height of four feet and a half, in meadows far south of the Arctic Circle. In Norway, it never attains this altitude : it is there always in such a dwarfish state, as to make it appear like a dif- ferent species. V 2 324 ABO. CHAP, dinavia, in excellent preservation ; and among these especially, the birds of Lapland, which are not common even in that country. The Turdus Rosens is of this number : it might be called the red-breasted Blackbird. The Swedish naturalists consider it as an American bird, which only oc- casionally visits Lapland and Finmark. The Corvus Lapponicus, resembling a small Magpie, is also a rare bird. There is an account of it by Thimbergy in the Transactions of the Academy of Stockholm. Another very remarkable bird is the Scolopax Glottis, or great dark-coloured Woodcock, with a very long beak, the lower half of which is red : also the Fringilla Lapponica : and, beyond every other in the beauty of its plumage and sweetness and infinite variety of its notes, the Motacilla Suecica, called Hundred-tuner ^ or Saddan KieUinen, by the Lapps, which is seen perching on the Betula nana, and making its nest among the moss, where it deposits five or six eggs of a greenish hue. Its brilliant plumage bids defiance to the pencil of the artist. We preserved one of them ; which, for this reason, we have not figured in this work, being dissatis- fied with the drawings made of it. Its feathers are of a lively Turquoise blue colour, bordered about the throat with black, which passes into a reddish grey. It feeds upon caterpillars, and ABO. 325 other small insects and worms. There are chap. above an hundred different species of birds r-^ a found in the neighbourhood of Abo, and in the o Aland Isles. Many of these, of course, are sea- fowl. They have four different kinds of Gulls, together with the Colymhus and the Pelican, the Eider-duck, and twelve or fourteen other species of Anas. In our frequent conversations with Hellenius — and we saw him daily during the time o of our short residence in Abo — we knew not which to admire most ; his polished and friendly manners, open, generous, and hospitable ; or the extent and variety of his mental accomplish- ments, which made us consider him as one of the best-informed scholars of his country. In- deed, we saw enough in this University to be convinced that Upsala, although more cele- brated, could not justly be compared with it. But the opinion which foreigners entertain of the merits of the Swedish Universities is e-ene- Compara- ^ tive esti- rally formed from conversing with the Siuedes in mate of the o. Ti **^o Uni- Stochholm, where Abo is almost as little known versities, as it is in London. Consequently, if in the j^^''""^'^ literary circles of Stockholm any mention is made o of Abo, the Swedes fancy that you are unmindful of the superior advantages of Upsala, whose pride and high-mindedness carries all before it ; yet this boasted superiority exists only in pre- 326 ABO. VII CHAP, judice and imagination : in point of real science, Abo is as much superior to Upsala, as the latter is before the University of Lund. But if this declaration were made among the Swedes of the metropolis, it would give rise to considerable opposition and w^armth of debate ; because in Stockholm, the same notions are entertained with regard to the Finland University, that Englishmen entertain respecting the Universities of Dublin and Edi?ibiirgh, when compared with Cambridge and Oxford: they will not suffer them to be weighed together in the same scale. Travellers, however, viewing with impartial eyes their com- parative merits, soon learn to disregard local pre- judices. Judging of the tree by its fruits, they will render to merit the just tribute which is due to merit : and in so doing, it must be confessed o that, at this time, Abo had the superiority. At Upsala, science was made a matter of con- o versation ; at Abo, it was a subject of real and industrious research : but Upsala possessed th-e means of giving notoriety and celebrity to any the most trivial contribution which it made to the interests of science ; whereas the facilities of common communication with the literary world were wholly denied to Abo. The former, jt is true, boasted the names of Thunberg ', and {X) Author of Travels in Japan, &c. &c. ; successor of Linnecus. VII. A B O. 327 of the two brothers ylfzelius'^; to which has chap. since been added that of an illustrious chemist, o in Berzelius : but jibo was at this time honoured by its historian Porthauy by its poet Frantzen^ by its chemist Gadolin, and by its botanist Hel- lenius ; men who in any University would have made a distinguished figure, and would have been regarded among its brightest ornaments. The different state of public morals, too, was strikingly conspicuous in the two Universities o of Upsala and j4bo. In Upsala, drunkenness and riot pervaded her streets ; and licentious- ness and Jacobinism had found their way into her cellars, which were nightly the resort, and indeed the only public place of meeting, for her o students. In ^bo, although a town of greater magnitude, containing a more numerous popu- lation, peace and decent order everywhere pre- vailed. We saw no symptoms oi that looseness of discipline and contempt of decorum which are so common in Upsala. Among its inhabi- tants, a milder disposition seemed to prevail ; chiefly, perhaps, owing to the absence of those French principles, which had been disseminated with fatal success, to poison and debase the (2) John Jfzelius, Professor of ChemisLry ; and his brother, Adam Afzelius, celebrated for his foreign travels, and talents in Natural His- tory, especially in Botany. 328 ABO. minds both of Students and Professors in Upsala, as among persons of all ages in Stockholm. In ^bo, the older Swedish manners and customs were prevalent, not having been yet liable to such mischievous innovations: a love cf truth, and a sincere ardour in the pursuit of science, seemed to be the natural growth of the place, where the force of good example was added to precept. Upsala, among the youth of the coun- try, might be deemed, as doubtless it was, the most fashionable seminary of education ; but a parent, who had the opportunities of information and choice respecting both, would not long he- sitate in which to place his son. Not, however, that there is any thing of austerity in the man- ners of the inhabitants. The principal of them are merchants, living in a very elegant style. One of them, to whom we were introduced, a Mr. Bremer, had travelled over Europe, and visited our own country. This gentleman pos- sessed an excellent library ; and had, moreover, a small but good collection of pictures and en- gravings. While, in the depth of their severe winter, the novel sight was presented to English travellers, of sledges attended by whole tribes of the wildest Finlanders from the interior of the country, now flocking into Abo, and passing and repassing amidst houses and public buildings ABO. 329 half buried in snow, we had invitations to balls ^^j'^^' and routs, in which a very striking contrast was ' , — ' exhibited to such features of savage life. Judging from the appearance exhibited in the public streets^ we might have imagined ourselves in some town of North America ; but in the even- ing, visiting their musical societies, of which they have two regularly established in this city, or joining in their dancing parties, we were rather reminded of what we had seen in the capital. Finlander of Savolax in the Streets of Abo, with his Sledge. CHAP. VIII. Concourse of the Natives from the neighbouring Districts — Manners of the Finns — their motives in visiting Abo — their dress — marvellous expedition which they undertake — anecdote of one of them — Streets o/" Abo — Booksellers — Price of articles — Language a7id People o/' Finland — Finnish Poetry — Merchants of Abo — Maritime Com- merce of Sweden and Norway — Singular customs — Courts of Judicature — Distant excursions of the Trading Finlanders — Foundation of the University — Number of its Students and Professors — Importance of a travellings carriage — State of the accommodations for Travellers — Cursory refections previously to the departure for Russia. dis- tricts. ABO. 331 We arrived in that season of the year which, of ^y\f^' all other, is best suited to gratify a stranger's >- — « — ' , 1 . r- r- 1 • Concourse curiosity ; when the rigorous Irost oi the winter of Natives enables the natives of all the neighbouring dis- neighbour- o tricts to resort to ^bo for merchandize. It wanted only a fortnight to the annual fair ; but the inhabitants of all the Finland, and even the more distant Lapland provinces, began to pour in, with increasing numbers, every day. At length, the coming of these visitants constituted every morning a new throng, moving in regular procession through the streets. By this means, without the pains and privations that would attend a journey into the interior, we were ena- bled, leisurely, to see and converse with people from very remote regions ; to watch their mode of life, wants, luxuries, and trade; and to observe their dresses and manners. Among these, the Russian traders were remarkably distinguished, by their long bushy beards, naked necks, and dark lamb-skin caps of a peculiar kind of curled wool. They were constantly in the streets, dragging after them hand-sledges : — while the Finns, with their shorn features, long dark un- bending hair, and sallow countenances; eyes, extended length-ways, and half closed ; a peaked nose, frequently inclining upwards, but always pointed; sharp and square chin; elevated cheek- 332 ABO. CHAP, bones, and pinched mouth ; plainly shewed the "^ — ^--w life they led : add to this, large, high, and pro- minent ears ; a small head ; thin scanty eye- brows, turned upwards at their extremities, like those of the Chinese ; high shoulders ; short and small lingers ; knees bent, and projecting for- wards ; and you have the genuine portrait of a jP/?2?2, evidently allied to the Laplanders. But if it were asked, whom else they resemble, it would be difficult to say. If in Great Britain there be. a race at all resembling them, it is, perhaps, the wild Scotch, who speak the Gaelic lan- guage, and who have the same dark locks and swarthy complexion : but the red-haired and raw-boned tribes of the Lowlands in Scotland are indisputably a Teutonic tribe, and perhaps ori- ginally Danes. It will be recollected, that, in former instances, we had been indebted to the annual fair for the insight we were enabled to obtain with regard to tribes inhabiting countries almost inaccessible to literary travellers. In this manner we became acquainted with the most distant colonies of Lapps, whose families visited the fairs of Kiemi and Tromjem. To the same cause we were now indebted for a familiar acquaintance with the natives of Tavastehiis and Savolax ; perhaps the only remaining branch of that antient race of Finjis who succeeded to the ABO. 333 Lapps in this part of Scandinavia^ and drove the ^^Jt^' latter from their settlements among the Aland ' r— ' IsleSy and upon the southern shores of the Gulph of Bothnia, into the more northern territories they now inhabit. The Finns of Savolax certainly resemble the Laplanders, as much as the children of any family ever resembled each other. They are not so diminutive in stature ; which perhaps arises from the difference of their diet and mode of life. When first we saw what were called Finlanders in Ostro- Bothnia, we thought they dif- fered materially from the Lapps, in having*, besides their more athletic form, light yellow hair. But we had there seen a mixed race, pro- duced by the intermarriages of Swedish and Fin- land families ; producing a comely and healthy race, who are constantly engaged in the whole- some occupations and labours of an agricultural life, and differ materially from the true swarthy and smoke-dried Finn ; whole families of whom continued at this time to pour into Abo, in such numbers that the streets were filled with them, so that it was wonderful to us where they could all find a place for lodging. We observed their sledges, with the horses yet standing in the shafts, filling the court-yards of all the shopkeepers Manners and merchants during the entire day ; and Finns. where they went afterwards we could not learn. 334 ABO. ^vin^' ^poi"^ t^^^ii' fi'^st coming, the appearance of all of them was the same ; all their sledges being similarly laden, and whole families walking by the side of them. These sledges contained pro- visions for themselves, and provender for their horses ; an old net being constantly drawn tight over the burden, to keep the hay, which lay uppermost, from being carried off by the wind. So many nets worn out with fishing occupation bespoke the ways of life of their owners, who supply with frozen fishes all the towns upon the coast, even to the distant markets of Peters- burg; and are themselves Icthyophagitcs, inha- biting a vast region of lakes and rivers swarming with this valuable article of food. Over the net, upon these sledges, is always placed the little family-chest, containing the hoarded treasure produced by a year's labour, tobacco-pipes and tobacco, together with the household divinities and portable shrines of their country ; such as were of old among the Israelites — "the taber- nacles OF MOLOCII, AND THE STvVR OF THEIR GOD REMPHAN." Their first business, after their arrival, is to swallow the drams with which they are freely supplied by the tradesmen in o Abo, who are to traffic with them, and with which they become immediately intoxicated : but no people upon earth are more harmless " in ABO. 335 their cups" than these simple Finns; their drunkenness being- only manifested in the most ludicrous grimaces, and in more than usual kind- ness and attention to their female companions, who can hardly be called by the name of '* the fair sex," lovely as they may appear to a drunken Finn. Sometimes, in these moments of intoxica- tion, the grinning and grimaces suddenly give way to gravity ; and then parties of them are seen together, communicating, with an air of the utmost importance, the most trivial circum- stances ; as, what they intend to buy at the fair, and whom they shall buy it of; who gives away the most brandy, and promises to supply their wants at the lowest rate i which, however, is a matter of importance to them. At these interviews the dealers now and then contrive to be present, either in their own persons, or by means of their agents ; because, while the drams they have administered do their work, the heart of a Finlander is open to all comers ; all their little secret plans and purposes are then divulged ; and, as the trade with them, and with the Lapps who resort to Abo at this season of the year, constitutes a very principal part of the commerce of Aho, the native simplicity and un- suspecting disposition of both render them an easy prey to the more artful dealers. CHAP. VIII. 336 ABO. CHAP. We have said that the trade carried on with VIII. ' ,' I these tribes from the interior of the country con- stitutes a very principal part of the commerce of ^bo ; and hence it follows that the chief part of the articles exposed for sale in the shops are thino^s calculated for their use : in fact, the best trade which any dealer can exercise in ^bo, is that of supplying the natives of the interior dis- tricts with the different commodities they may require. Of all their wants, the principal are constantly the same ; viz. tobacco and brand?/ — drugs universally requisite, where mental re- sources are at a low ebb, for steeping in forget- fulness the tc^dium vitcu. The desire of obtaining them is so great among the Finns and Lapps, as to supersede almost every other necessary article of life. From what we saw of the Finns, it was evident that both men and women would sooner eat their provisions raw, and even starve themselves, than be deprived of brandy and tobacco: therefore, if the price of an iron kettle, o for which a Finn has made a journey to Abo, astonishing both as to its extent and difficulty, should encroach too much upon his little fund for supplying him with these articles, he will spend all he has in brandy and tobacco, and return home again without the utensil for which he came. The author made an experiment here, ABO. which had often afforded him amusement among the Highlanders of Scotland (with whom the taste for these articles is much the same) ; namely, that of walking among the natives with about half-a-yard of what is called pig-tail tobacco, dangling from his pocket-hole : the consequence was the same in both countries — the natives, attracted by the sight, would follow him any- where, and cheerfully do whatever he required of them ; wishing for no better payment for their labour than a cutting from the roll of tobacco. o In one of the principal streets of Abo, we saw a porter passing through the market with a con- siderable burden of this rolled tobacco upon his shoulders ; and he was literally hunted by the Finns, who pursued him as hungry curs run after a dog when he is carrying off a bone, o During this their annual visit to Abo, the dress P"""^ °^ *^ the 2' inns. of all the Finns seemed to be universally the same ; indeed, it is nearly the habit worn over all Finland, Lapland, and a considerable part of Russia. It consists of a jacket or coat made of white sheep-skin leather, which is dressed, and worn with the wool inwards, as a lining, towards the body : this is fastened always by a sash or girdle about the waist. Long trowsers or pan- taloons reach below the calf of the leg, and are bound about the instep. The feet are covered VOL. XI. z 338 ABO. vin^ either with fur boots, or socks made of skins ; ' over which are worn, what tlie Russians call Lahkas, or sandals made of the bark of trees'. Upontheir heads they wearacap of fur ; but which differs from that commonly worn by the Russians, in having flaps let down, so as to cover and keep warm the cheeks and ears, which are the parts otherwise frequently frost-bitten. With all these precautions against the inclemency of their win- ter-season, it is very remarkable that all the three nations, Finns, Lapps, and Russians, appear with their necks, and often with their bosoms, bare, in the most severe weather. Among all the tribes distinguished by their hardihood in this respect, are particularly to be mentioned the natives of Carelia ; many of whom were now o in Aho, with their necks and bosoms open to the atmosphere, when the mercury in Fahren- heit'^ thermometer was forty-six degrees below the freezing-point, or thirteen degrees and a half below Zero ; a degree of temperature that actually happened while we were there, at noon, upon the sixth of January. The fair begins upon January the twentieth, and continues but three days ; during which time it is almost impossible (1) See the Vignette to Chap. X. of the First Volume of these Travels. ABO. 339 to penetrate through the square where the mar- chap. ket is held, or any of the streets leading to it, w— v— -' owing to the many thousands of Finns, and other tribes, present upon the occasion ; bringing frozen Jishes and corn for sale ; and bartering these commodities against salt, brandy, tobacco, domestic utensils, and sometimes silver vessels ; with which, and with trinkets and other trifles, they severally return back to the countries whence they came. What would be thought of it, if at a fair in England, in one of our southern counties, (as for example, the fair of Lewes in Sussex,) the natives of the Orkney Isles were to be seen annually present, buying up the principal com- modities exposed for sale ? Yet distances of expeduion^ this kind, and much greater, are traversed by l^J'^thT'^^" the natives of Scandinavia, who visit the towns -^"'"*- of Norway, Sweden, and Finland, journeying for a little tobacco, or brandy, or for an iron-pot, or any trifling articles of hardware, from one end of this extensive region to the other. In proof Anecdote .of one of of this, one anecdote will be sufficient, which them. afforded us as much surprise as it can possibly excite in the Reader's mind. Being one day in the market-place of J^bo, engaged in surveying the crowd of peasants from all parts that were there assembled, one of the Finns, whom w^e had noticed on account of the wildness of his aspect, z 2 340 ABO. his savage look, and uncouth appearance, sud- denly sprang forward from the multitude, seizing us by turns by the hand, and evidently recog- nising us as old acquaintances and friends. After some time, we recollected having seen him somewhere before ; and, upon inquiring whence he came, he seemed to be hurt ; and addressing our interpreter in the Siuedish language, said — " What, have the Gentlemen forgotten the poor Finn who ferried them to and fro, in their visits to Kiemi Fair ?" And now we recollected the boatman employed upon that occasion ; who had actually traversed, in his sledge, with a single horse, the whole extent of the Gulph of Bothnia, from Kiemi, on its northern^ to ^bo\ on its southern extremity : and this amazing journey had been performed for the sole purpose of buy- ing a little salt and tobacco, with which he was preparing to return ! TT O and"stteets ^^^ cluefly cousists of woodcu houses, although of Abo. there be many in the city both of stone and brick. The streets are of great length, some of them extending nearly an English mile. Being perfectly straight, they have a handsome appear- ance. A street leading from the former site of o the old Monastery of ^bo, towards Tavastehus, is as long as the Strada Toledo in Naples, or the Corso at Rome. There are three or four book- ABO. 341 sellers' shops, but they are worse than those of ^^^f' Stockholm. The owners of these shops are only to be found in attendance during one hour in the sellers day — from eleven till twelve : and if a stranger, calling at that hour, is desirous of examining the books, he is not allowed to touch one of them. A catalogue, written in the Swedish language, is put into his hand, which is all he is permitted to see : and when he has been at the pains of exa- mining the list, he finds it to consist entirely of Swedish publications ; few of which are worthy of notice. There are, however, some which one is glad to meet with ; as, for example, the Dic- tionarium Anglo- Svethico Latinum of Bishop Sere- nius, with the curious preface of Eric Benzelius, printed at Hamburg, in 1734; also Widegrens Lexicon, Svensktoch Engelskt, printed at Stockholm, in 1788 ; which are almost essential to a travel- ler's journey through the country. For the rest, it is hardly possible to conceive a greater quantity of trash than it is usual to meet with in such places. The works of the Swedish historians are few in number ; but even these it would be in vain to look for here. They are more likely to be met with in London or Paris, than in any of the Scandinavian cities, or even in Copenhagen, A person who is desirous of residing for any length of time in this University will of course Articles. 342 ABO. CHAP, avoid the inns, the very best of which is bad. VIII. o ' ^ • The lodgings let to strangers visiting Abo are remarkably neat and clean : for a sum not ex- Priceof cccding four shillings English per week, a good set of apartments may be hired ; and no addi- tional charge will be made for fire and candles. The only dear article is wine, which is supplied by the merchants of the city, who trade with Portugal and France; and is of better quality than it is usual to meet with in Stockholm. One dozen of very good Champagne sold for about thirty shillings ; and the same quantity of good Port, for twenty-four shillings. Other Portuguese and French wines might be had in abundance ; especially the different sorts of Claret; one of which^ La Fite, is always called Long-cork in Sweden, and is the favourite wine in all company. They have also Hock and other wines from the Rhine and the Moselle, Our frequent intercourse with the respectable Professors of this University, especially with Professor Porthan, of whose historical talents we have already spoken, gave us reason to hope that we should be able to gain some insight into the antient history and origin of the Finnish tribes. — Professor Porthan was himself a native of Finland, and well read and experienced in all that related to his own countrymen. He often ABO. 343 visited us ; and we passed whole evenings in ^^f/*' conversing with him upon this subject. From all '- ^ * that we could collect, it was evident that the Ian2:ua2:e of the Finns is a dialect of that which language ^ ^ and People is spoken by the Lapps^\ by many of the Russian oi Finland. d) Tills opinion is connbateil by the Authors of the Universal History, [see uoi. sxxv. pj^. 10, II. Lond. 1762.) and, as it should seem, upon the authority of Voltaire, who knew about as much of the Laplanders and Finns, as of the inhabitants of the Moon. " Olaics, (observe the writers before cited, speaking of the Lapps,) and others who have copied him, tell us, that these people were originally Finns, who retired into Lapland." " But why, (as M. de Voltaire observes, Hist, de Russie, torn, I. p. 16.) when they were moving, did they not choose a less northern land, where life would have been more comfortable to them ?'' To which question of Voltaire there is this plain answer — That all the comforts of a Laplander's life depend upon the comforts of his rein-deer ; for which animal nothing can be better suited than the productions and cli- mate of Lapland. If they had chosen " a less northern land," they would not have been provided, as they are, with the Lichen rangiferinus for their rein-deer, without which article of food, as it is well known, the animal degenerates and dies. The same authors maintain, that there is no similitude between the languages of the Finns and the Lapps : of the fallacy of which remark the Reader may judge, from the following compa- rative Vocabulary. At the same time it should be stated, that there is some difference between the two languages : the appellations of the different parts of the human body are the same in both ; but the names of the Heathen Gods of the Finns and Lapps are not the same : ENGLISH. LAPP. FINN. Nose. Njuone. Nena. Shoulder. Alice. Olka. Spine. Nidtje. Nisa. Hand. Kat. Kasi. Finger. Suorm. Sormi. Thumb. Pelge. Peukalo. Knee. Puolw. Polvi. Foot. Juolke, Jalka . Blood. Warr. Weri. 344 ABO. CHAP, nations ; and, what is much more remarkable, it VIII. has also been identified with the language of the ENGLISH. LAPP. FINN. Sinew. Suona. Suoni. To hear. Kullet. KuuUa. To mourn . Surgot. Sureta. To lament. Valot. Valittaa. To fear. Pallet. Peljata. To answer. Vaslatet. Vaslata. To travel. Mannet. Menna. To drink. Jiikket. Juoda. Hunger. Nelget. Nelka. To swallow. Njalot. Nuolla. To freeze. Kalmet, Kylmettya. To fly away. Pateret. Pacta. Brother. Valja, Veil. Young. Nuor. J^uort. Old. IVuoras. Wanka, Sun. Peive. Pdiva. Evening. Ekked. Ehto. Cloud. Palw. PilvL Ice. Jagna, Jaa. Fire. Toll. Tuli. Bay. Lukt. Laaxi. Smoke. Suowa. Sauwu. River. Jock. Joki. Isle. Suolo. Salo-sari. Mountain. Ware. Wuori. Stone. Kedke. Kivi. Bog. Suis. Suo. Leaves. Muorje. Marja. Alder. Leipe. Leppa. Pine-tree. Kuosa. Kuusi. Marten. Nete. Neta. Louse. Matok. Mato. Serpent. Kerbma, Karme. Birch. Ladde. Lindu. White. Velkas. Walkia. All these, and many more, are enumerated in the Appendix to a printed Thesis, " Dc Bicarlis," written by Portlian, for an Act kept in the Schools at Abo by Fnintzcn, yi\>on the 20th of Dec. 1786, upon which occasion Porihan himself presided. ABO. 345 Hungarians\ According to Professor Porthan, the Finns are the second colony of Tatars who settled in Scandinavia ; the old and original co- lony, or first-comers, being the Lapps. The Finns also peopled the north of Livonia, the south of which country was inhabited by a very different race of men. They once occupied all the western (1) The Reader will find this fact satisfactorily established by consulting the work of I. Sajnovics, "• DeTnonstratio Idiema Ungarorum et Lapponum idem esse," 4to. Hafnice, 1770. Also another very curious treatise, printed at Gottingen, in 1799, entitled " Affinitas Lingua HungariccE cum Linguis Fennicce originis, auctore S. Gyaumathi." But the prin- cipal confirmation of this curious circumstance was made by the discovery of Sajnovics ; who, going to Wardhuus, to witness a transit of Venus on the Sun's disk, first observed, and afterwards made known, the striking affinity between the languages of Lapland and Hungary. In Strallen- beeg's " Descriptio Imperii Ruisici," printed at Stockholm in 1730, p. 32. there is the following quotation from Sajnovics : — "Sciendum est, in Europa et Asia, qua septcntrionem et orientcm respiciunt, sex classes populorum inveniri, quos passim sub uno Tartarorum nomine complectimur. Sunt hi 1. MORDUINI. 3. PERJltCKII. 5. WoOULITZII. 2. SCHEREMISS^. 4. WoTYACKII. 6. OsTIAKI. Omnes hi olim cum Finnis, Lapponibus, Esthiis, et Ungaris unum eundemque populum constiluerunt. Alque ad sic diclos Hunnos, vel Vaijos, qui nonerant Taktaki pertinebnnt." — Nothing has ever puzzled philologists more than the extraordinary discrepancy of the Hungarian language, when compared with all others in its neighbourhood. Mol- NARius, a Hungarian, in the preface to his Hungarian Grammar, says, " Si quis ex me qucerat, ad quam originalem linguam Ungarica referenda sit, vel cum quibus habeat cognationem, me nescire fatebor. Video enim eos, qui hoc tempore thesauros Polyglottos edunt, et linguas quasque in suas origines et classes referunt, Ungaricam semper in medio relinquere. Cam EuropcEis nullam connexionem habere hanc nostrum certum est. Ativeroin Scythicis AsicB finibus, supersint Qentes aliquce nostra lingua Hunnica utentes,juxta cum ignarissimis scio." 346 ABO. CHAP. VIII. and southern parts of Russia, as far as the ^— V ' Caspian Sea: being compelled to emigrate, in consequence of the incursions of the Monguls, they settled in Finland. What branch of them it was, and at what time the event took place that occasioned their settlement in Hun- gary/, cannot now probably be determined. There is no other evidence of the fact, than the similarity of the two languages : but surely such evidence is conclusive ; for, as it is observed by the celebrated /Are, in his Suio- Gothic Glossary, when speaking of the analogy between the two languages *, and the importance of such proofs, " non enim ut fungi, temere ET INOPINATO NASCUNTUR VOCABULA." Thc Finns possess poetry and music ; but they have no national dance, nor indeed any more ability or inclination for dancing than the bears which inhabit their forests. In this respect they may be said to resemble the Arabs, but differ from (1) This work was printed at Upsala in 1769. After speaking of the Lapland and Finnish race, and attributing to them a common origin with the Hungarians, in his preface the author says — " Non enim arbi- Iror alia ralione facile explicari 2}osse, unde exstiterit insignis ilia, quce inter linguam Ungaricam et Fennicam observalur affinitas, quccque tanta est, ut cerld fide relatum mihi sit, in nupero hello, quod in Germania gessimus, milites quosdam, Fcnniccc nationis, in Ungariam translates, intra itercttiguum tcmpus cum regionis ejus incolis coUoquia miscere jiotuisse." ABO. 347 the whole race of Goths. In this poetry, the ^^J^f' Finns are what the Italians call Improvisatoris ; ^ » " i' composing extempore rhapsodies. Their poetical poeuy.' productions are without rhyme, and consist almost entirely of trochees. All they seem to aim at, in these compositions, is alliteration ; of which they are so passionately fond, that the whole effect of a song or a poem is often owing to words which in the same line either begin entirely with the same letter, or in which a repetition of the same letter frequently recurs. Professor Frantzen gave us a specimen of Finnish poetry, which will illustrate what is now said. He called it *' a Native Song of a Finnish Maiden ;^ and we shall neither alter the title, nor make any change in the manner in which it is written ; although the form of the metre seems to be altogether irregular. For, understanding the mode of accentuation, it is only necessary that the Reader should observe the following order of the metre : The first word consists of a regular trochee ; the second, of one long syllable, followed by two short syllables, or a dactyl; the third, the same; with which the line terminates. Every line, therefore, is made to consist of one trochee and 348 ABO. ^YifL* ^^^ dactyls. We shall now insert the whole of -' it, accompanied by a literal translation. Native Song of a Finnish Maiden. Literal Translalion. Jos mun tuttuni tulisi, JEnne nahti/ini nnalcysi, Sillen suuta ssuihnjaisin, Jos oil's sun suden veressa : ■>■ ■#■ <^^ •#•_ Sillen katla kaapajaitin, Jos olis karme kammen paassa. If my well-known should come, Dly often- beholded should appear, I would snatch a kiss from his mouth, If it were tainted with wolf's blood ; I would seize and press his hand. If a serpent were at the end of it. Oliskn tiiuli mielelissa, Ahavainen kiletissa, Sanan toisi, sanun veisi, Aauden rakkahan vallila. If the wind had a mind, If the breeze had a tongue, To bear and bring back the vows Which two lovers exchange ! Ennensa heitan kerkurnat, Paislit papj)ilaii unohdan, Ennerko heitan kertaiseni Kesan kestyteldyani, Talven taivutelduani. All dainties would I disregard, Even the vicar's savoury meat ; Rather than forsake the friend of my heart. The wild game of my summer's hunting. The darling of my winter's taming. This language is full of vowels, and perhaps better adapted to Poetry than any other lan- guage known. Their words never begin with two consonants : if a word begins with a vowel, it almost always ends with one ; at least, gene- rally this happens ; although there be, of course, exceptions. Acerbi, who was himself a skilful ABO. 349 musician, has published, in the Appendix to the chap. second volume of his Travels, the curious <*— v — ' variations given by the Finlanders to the five notes of which alone all their music consists. He has preserved their famous Run a, beginning " Niiko, Nuko, pico Unto, Veni, Veni, Veslereki," as it is played upon the Harpu. He also men- tions their dances ; but this is an error, as they have no dance of their own. The dance to v^hich he alludes, and which he witnessed on the banks of Leivaniemi, is not a Finnish dance, but one borrowed from their neighbours. The merchants of ^bo have no regular place Merchants of Exchange ; but they meet in the Square, and "^ ^^'"'' there transact their business. Indeed, the number of the wholesale dealers is very re- stricted. Mr. Bremer, a friend of ours, was one of this number : he had travelled over Europe, and possessed a good collection of paintings. We bought one of him, by Le Brun; a very good picture, representing the Crucijixion; which he had procured in France during the troubles of the Revolution, and had destined for the altar of a small chapel erected by himself near some glass- works in the neighbourhood. The trade between Abo and England, at this time, was very much restricted ; and there was a report of its being Maritime Commerce 360 Abo. CHAP, entirely prohibited. Spain was the only country « »■- ' from which salt was allowed to be imported, consistently with a regulation which prevailed all over Sweden. A cursory survey of the of Sweden forcisfn commcrcc of all the maritime towns of and Nor- ° ^^v- Sweden and Norivay might be afforded in very few words. All the country, from Louisa, on o the Gulph of Finland, to Aho, was occupied in commerce with Spain. Following the coast, along the eastern side of the Gulph of Bothnia, the inhabitants were engaged in trade with England. All the western side of the same gulph was employed in traffic with Stockholm, from whence the commerce is general over the world. Tornea, in the north of the gulph, trades with Stockholm and Copenhagen, and some- times exports to England its commodities, of tar, deals, Jish, and peltry. All the south of Sweden proper is engaged in trade with England and Holland. The ships of Gothenburg sail even to China. With regard to the Norwegian coast of Scandinavia, beginning from North Cape, west- ward, the inhabitants supply the ports of Den- m,ark, Holland, and England, with. Jish and peltry; and also send the same commodities into Sweden, by the way of Tornea. Ships from Trdnijem sail to Ireland, Scotland, and Holland. The trade of Bergen is confined chiefly to Holland; and that ABO. 351 of Christiania, as we have before mentioned, to chap. 1^ VIII. Judicature. England: but the trade of the south of Norway, by the late abandonment of its interests on the part of England, and its cession to Sweden, has been entirely ruined'. In Abo there are some customs rather of a singular customs. singular nature. They ring their church- bells at a funeral, as we do in England at a wedding. When a robbery has been committed, a person, beating a drum, goes through all the streets, to make it known to the inhabitants. They have here a Town Hall and a Parliament House : petty Courts of offences being judged of at the former, and capital crimes at the latter. The President or Judge passes sentence ; but if the offender be condemned to death, his execution cannot take place without an order from the King. Both the Town Hall and the Parliament House are built of stone; as are also the seat of the Courts of Justice, the Excise Office, the house of the Governor, and the houses of some of the o merchants. Abo is surrounded on all sides by rocky hills, which have a very naked appearance, and consist, for the most part, oi granite. (1) This remark of course applies to the political changes that have taken place since the period of these Travels. Korway remains as it was, and as it ever will be — the most beautiful and fertile country in the world, full of the grandest scenery in Nature ; but its foreign commerce is annihilated, and its merchants are all ruined. 352 ABO. CHAP. In ^iig questions which we put to the nume- ' V ' rous families of Finns who were now daily flock- Distant ex- . . o , . . peditionsof mg into Aboy respecting the particular articles Finu^de^s. of commcrce for which they had made such marvellous journeys, we were answered, that they came to buy salt and tobacco ; bringing at the same time, in exchange for these commodi- ties, corn, peltry, Jish, butter, and cheese. Some of them were from parishes at the extremities of the two Gulphs of Bothnia and Finland ; and of these we have already mentioned one indivi- dual from Kiemi. What would be thought, in England, of a labouring peasant, or the occupier of a small farm, making a journey of nearly 7 00 miles * to a fair, for the articles of their home consumption ? Except in this annual journey o to Abo, the true Finns have little intercourse with the inhabitants of the maritime district : they inhabit the eastern provinces of Savolarjc and Tavasthuus ; where they live in the midst of forests, by the borders of the lakes ; and lead a mode of life which exactly resembles that of the agricultural or settled Laplander ; in houses (1) The distance from Tornc^'- to Aho, by the Sivedis/i Vdgviaure, Stock- holm 1776, p. 41, is 97 S«;e ice was strong enough to bear the weight of such a vehicle the whole way, and brought it safe to ^bo. The mode of travelling in the common sledges of the country is certainly the best, as far as the mere business of the day is concerned : it is, therefore, that mode of journey- ing which every one would adopt who seeks only to perform a given distance with the greatest expedition : but what is to become of a traveller importance 1 • 1 • IT ofatravel- m the night, m such a country and climate, iing-car- where there are not only no inns, but where he " " will find it actually impossible to procure a place of rest; nor even a stable, in which he may find clean straw for his couch, or a place where he may lie down? It seems as if the na- stateofthe accommo- tives of the dreary district between ^bo and dationsfor Petersburg had exerted their utmost ingenuity, and with fatal success, to banish from their dwellings every thing that bore any relationship to comfort and cleanliness. They lie down themselves upon dirty boards, filthy with grease and smoke ; in dark hovels, stinking of putrid fish : and these boards, which they use for their beds, are not put together horizontally, so that a traveller might cover them with skins^ and thus contrive a resting-place ; but they are set A A 2 356 DEPARTURE FROM ABO. ^\'in^" "P ^^ ^ sloping position, like the roof of a house, ' — » — ' with a foot-board to arrest the feet, and prevent the person sleeping upon them from slipping ofF| to which a stranger, unused to the practice of being extended like a carcase upon a butcher's shamble, is constantly liable. Our travelling- carriage, therefore, was for us a moveable home ; without which it would be folly, in this season of the year, to think of making any further pro- gress. In the summer season the case would have been different ; because the traveller, well armed against mosquitoes, may then lie down in the open air, quite indifferent as to the state of the dwellings in his route'. Cursory As soou as the carriage arrived, we took leave refleciions _ ° previous to of our frlcuds, and prepared for our journey departure . „ xr • i • r i ioviiussia. mto Russia. Knowmg nothmg oi that country, or of its inhabitants, we set out full of hope that our gratification would be at least equal to (1) Such, too, is the expedition with which voyages among the M'nul Jsles are then performed, that Professor Malthus and the Rev. W. Otter, who passed this way, from Stockholm to Petersburg, in August, came in &\)OaX.irom Skarpans to Abo, a distance equal to 117 miles, in a single day. In the course of this voyage, whici) they describe as resembling a passage across a beautiful lake sprinkled with islands, they were only once outof sight of land ; namely, in sailing to Ekero. Their carriage had been taken to pieces, and put into their boat. They left Skarpans at a quarter past six in tlie morning of August 7, and reached the Custom- o house at yyfti) a quarter before six in the evening. They had, therefore, ))erformed tlieir delij^hlful voyage in eleven hours and a half, at the rate of Uii miles an lioia' the whole way. They did not keep a direct course ; but REFLECTIONS ON LEAVING ABO. 357 VIII. that we had received in visiting Sweden, and ^^^f/* little prepared for the grievous disappointment we afterwards experienced. Every thing tended to excite in us a curiosity to become acquainted with the Russians — the great figure they were beginning to make in the political world, and the memory of the illustrious names connected with the history of the country. There is some- thing imposing in the mere name of such a mighty empire. Extending from the Caspian to the Icy Sea, and from the Baltic to the Pacijic Ocean, it presents, under one Sovereign, a greater extent of territory than all the empires of antiquity. It is therefore with an aching heart, but with more of regret than indignation, that the writer of these pages purposes to make known to the English Reader, what his fate will be, if hereafter, pursuing the same route, he should venture to traverse the Russian domi- but sailed in and out among the islands, and passed a number of very narrow straits. They describe the appearance of the islands in summer as " sometimes exhibiting a prospect of bare rocks ; sometimes, rocks covered with firs; and sometimes, but not often, cultivated lands, with farms upon them." The villages and little towns are " built of small Avooden houses, many of them projecting into the water." Upon the rocks near one village they counted nineteen windmills, all going. The whole had a very picturesque effect, and the scenery was charming. The rocks were nowhere very high. The woods were generally of fir-trees, but sometimes mixed with alders, birch, Sec. The entrance of the river "... ° Aeura, in sailing up to Abo, possessed striking beauties, as the rocks were higher ; and nothing could be more agreeable than the voyage they had made. 358 REFLECTIONS ON LEAVING ABO. ^viii*" ^^^^^> ^^^ especially Russian Finland, in his V i y I > way to Petersburg. Every effort of a powerful people has hitherto been made to suppress the truth with regard to Russia. Large sums of money have been constantly paid, both in Eng- land and upon the continent of Europe, to buy up the public journals ; and to engage writers who should answer all the views of the Russian Cabinet, by studiously concealing the truth with regard to that country, and by propagating false accounts of its inhabitants. It is not therefore to be subject of wonder that we fell so easily into the snare which was spread before us. As we did not expect to meet with refinement, we had no right to complain of the barbarism of the Russians; but the rude and simple manners of unenlightened nations, however barbarous they may be, are sometimes joined to benevolence, if not to honesty : yet the very word honesty, if it exist in the Russian language, is unintelligible to Russians : they know not the virtue to which it applies. If any trace of it lie concealed throughout the wide extent of the Scythian do- minion, it is, perhaps, buried in the breasts of those victims of tyranny who have been con- demned, for their love of truth, to a life of labour in the mines of Siberia : or it may exist in some dungeon of the empire, the access to whose REFLECTIONS ON LEAVING ABO. 359 walls is carefully guarded by Despotism, that chap. unnatural monster, who can only thrive where <„ ,y.- » virtue is oppressed. At this time, Siveden had not lost her valuable possessions in Ostero-Bothnia ; but the designs of Russia were well known to all the best-informed men of the country. From their account, therefore, of the people we were about to visit, founded on the bitter experience of the Finlanders with regard to Russia, we had some prescient view of the gathering storm that was about to burst upon the land : but we enter- tained a hope, that the Cabinets of Europe, much better aware of what was going on, would never allow the predatory designs of the Rus- sians to be carried on unmolested. A great national animosity had always subsisted be- tween Siveden and Russia ; and we hoped that to this might be attributed something of the dark picture given to us of the latter. Sweden, boasting of her former victories, saw with fear and distrust the rising prosperity of her mighty adversary, and the indifference with which more distant nations regarded the encroachments the Russians were everywhere making upon the ter- ritories of their neighbours. Russia, with an appetite for dominion, that grows by what it feeds'upon, witnesses every year, as it passes, some new district annexed to her empire. She 360 REFLECTIONS ON LEAVING ABO. ^vui' ^^^^ ^^^ viewing with longing eyes the rich ' — , ' fields of Finland, which intercepted the progress of her boundaries towards the Gulf of Bothnia : and Sweden and Norwai/ will next become a prey to her devouring ambition and avarice ; as will the whole of Persia, India, and Turkey ; — when it will be too late for other Powers to interfere, and to curb the ferocious system of oppression ; which in due season they might have restrained ! Tomb of Count Ernsverd. CHAP. IX. FROM ABO IN FINLAND, TO PETERSBURG IN RUSSIA. o Journey from Abo to Helsingfors — Description of Hel- singfors — Fortress of Sweaborg — Tomb of Count Erns- verd — Strength, size, and importance of Sweaborg — Route from Helsingfors to Borgo and Louisa — Approach to the Russian frontier — Boundaries of the Swedish and Russian Dominions — Contrast letween the Natives of the two countries — Mode of recruiting the Russian Army — Iniquitous conduct of a Russian Inspector of the Customs — Difficulties that impede the Traveller — Ar- rival at Frederickshamm — Appearance of that place — Regulation relating to Posting in Russia — Description of the Post-houses in Russian Finland — Intense cold of the 362 FROM ABO TO HELSINGFORS. the weather during the night — Arrival at Wibourg — Appearance of the Soldiers of the Garrison — Mode of inflicting punishment on Deserters — Inhabitants of Wi- bourg — Arrival at Petersburg. The journey from Abo to Helsingfors, in the summer time, affords a series of prospects, Journey i: i ^ from Abo which, iu their character, cannot be equalled in fort! ""^' the Sivedish dominions ; but in the winter season, it is performed under circumstances of so much dreary uniformity, that the traveller is glad to pass over it with all possible expedition. In this long route, therefore, little will now be said respecting any particular part of it : the only objects attracting notice, being the houses of relay ; which are much the same everywhere, seldom rising to mediocrity as to the accommo- dations they offer, but situate in a country full of picturesque beauty. This part of Finland is much cultivated : the forests having been cleared, and enclosures made, of course the population is greater than in other places. The whole country appears decked with farm-houses and village churches, rising to the view, or falling from it, over an undulating district, amidst woods, and water, and rocks, and large loose masses of granite : it may be called Nonvay in miniature : and the extraordinary novelty to an English traveller, of seeing vessels gliding out, FROM ABO TO HELSINGFORS. 363 as if from the woods, among which are so many- bays, lakes, and little inland seas, in that season of the year when the ice has not locked up the waters, is as delightful as it is striking. Higher up the country, towards the north, there are scenes which were described to us as unrivalled in the world. Every charm which the effect of cultivation can give to the aspect of a region where Nature's wildest features — headlong cata- racts, lakes, majestic rivers, and forests — are combined, may there be seen. o The road from Aho to Peike, the first stage, one Siuedish mile and a half, is broader than the generality of roads in Siueden, and very good. Here we found the people speaking Finnish, of which we understood very little. Our next stage, to Visfu, was through a tract of land sur- rounded by hills sprinkled with firs, calling to our mind the scenery near Gothenburg in Sweden, where all the hills seemed formed into basins. As we proceeded, the country was broken with woods and forests of birch and fir; and on our right we had, occasionally, views of inlets, or bays of the sea. From the information of some travellers who passed through the part of Swedish Finland that lies between Abo and Louisa, we found that nothing could be more incorrect than the account they had received at Stockholm CHAP. IX. 364 HELSINGFORS. CHAP, respecting the face and nature of the country. ' — V — ' They had been told, that they would see one continued black forest : instead of this, the tract, through which they passed, in the month of August, presented, frequently, scenery of a most beautiful and picturesque nature. The soil, in some places, was extremely fertile ; the pasture lands very rich ; and the crops of corn, of which a great quantity is exported from this part of the country, abundant. By the friendship of Baron LfArmfeklt, upon our arrival at Helsingfors, we were conducted to the famous fortress of Sweaborg; perhaps, after Gibraltar, the strongest in Europe. It is very difficult to obtain admission : and we were told that even the Baron, who was second in com- mand in the garrison, could not procure for us leave to enter. But when he presented us to the General, the latter, after being assured that we were not travelling in any military character, permitted the Baron, and a captain of marines, to conduct us over it. I must, however, first speak of Helsingfors, as it occurs first in order. Descrip- It is a Small but handsome town, containino; Uonof Hel- / ^ iingfors. many stone houses ; and, considering the size of it, carries on a very active trade : the shop- keepers deal with the neighbouring farmers, and, o as at Abo, with the Finns, who descend in num- HELSINGFORS. 36iy. bers in the winter. The town was crowded with ^^J^^- them, when we were there. The foreign com- > — , — * merce, as well as that of the south oi Finland, is exclusively with Spain, to which country it con- veys deal planks, and brings back salt ; the return with this article being considered of great o importance. Helsingfors, like Abo and Louisa, is renowned for its deal planks ; some of which we found to be twelve feet in length and two inches in thickness, perfectly fair, and very free from knots. Twelve of them, when shipped, cost, including all expenses, two rix-dollars and a half of the paper currency ; about eight shil- lings English, according to the present state of exchange, which must render the profit very high. The expense of building vessels is not great here ; and it is still less in the Gulf of Bothnia. A ship of 150 Siuedish lasters may be purchased for six thousand rix-dollars ; and many well-constructed trading brigs do not cost more than two thousand. Of all the deals ex- ported from the Gulf of Finland, those of Frederickshamm, a town in the Russian dominions, are preferred by the Spanish merchants. The houses have an appearance of comfort ; and the inhabitants, we were informed, lived in perfect harmony and good-will among each other. We experienced great attention and 36& SWEABORG. CHAP, politeness from many of them. Nothing can be V y ^' more gay and pleasing than the scene, exhibited on the ice, from Helsingfors to the fortress of Sweahorg, which is situate on an island, distant two English miles. The road is marked on the snow by trees, or large branches of the pine, planted in the ice. Sledges of all sizes and descriptions, open and covered, of business, burthen, or plea- sure, plain or decorated, with beautiful little prancing Finland horses, are seen moving with the utmost rapidity, backwards and forwards, the whole way, from morning to night. Officers with their servants, ladies, soldiers, peasants, artificers, engineers, form a crowded promenade, more interesting and amusing than that of Hyde Park in London, or the Corso at Rome. Fortress of Thc entrance to the fortress of Siveaborg is by Sweaborg. a long and narrow arched way. Every thmg around us — the massive walls, numerous bat- teries, intricate mazes, the prodigious quantity of cannon, and the swarms of soldiers, sentries, posts of guard — announced the strength and consequence of the place. Our passporfs and persons underwent, as we entered, a very rigid examination. The house of the Commandant and principal officers is a lofty white edifice, coITnV^ placed on an eminence, over the gateway. On Ernsverii. .-^^^ ,^^,^^ Immediately before it, stands the simple SWEABORG. 367 but characteristic Tomb of Count Ernsverd, the *^^^^' engineer who planned the works'. The chastity ^— v — ' and purity of taste which are shewn in this tomb, at once bespeak the Augustan age of Sweden, and the genius of Gustavus the Third. Whatever is elegant in art, whatever is great and correct in design, whatever is magnificent, all came from him ; and to the same source the Tomb of Erns- verd owes its origin. It is worthy of the finest age of Greece ; and has, at the same time, an Etrurian character of durability and massiveness. It is raised upon an ascending scale of four tablets, perfectly simple and plain in all its parts ; except, that on each of its oblong sides, which are indented, there are short inscriptions in gilt letters : the snow which covered them had been hardened by the frost ; and we were not able to remove it, in the few moments we had leisure to examine the tomb. Not being at all conversant with matters strength, , . „ . ^ . . f . size, and relating to lortmcation, we can give only an nn- importance perfect account of the interior wonders of this lor^"" admirable fortress. Its basins, and canals, and dry docks, have been cut, with infinite labour and art, out of the solid rock ; and works for its further improvement are still going on. The roofs and chimneys of all the store-houses and (1) Seethe Fignetic lo this Chapter. 368 SWEABORG. CHAP, magazines are covered with copper. Strong * — , — ' ladders reach from the basins to the tops of the buildings, which, in case of fire, must be parti- cularly serviceable ; for they are as stout and broad as staircases ; and every one of them would allow persons ascending and descending to pass each other. In different parts of the fortress are a great number of cannon taken from the Russians, which may be distinguished from those of Sweden by their shortness. Here are kept the Galleys, capable of being worked equally with sails or oars. The dry docks, large enough to receive the fleet, have a very narrow entrance : one vessel only can be admitted at a time. Batteries of various heights, appearing like mountains of massive masonry, command every port and avenue of the works. Water is admitted by gates or locks; and, when necessary, it is afterwards carried off by mill- pumps. Every vessel has its proper place: and the ships are laid up in a manner so convenient and admirable, as to be ready at the shortest notice ; and are carefully preserved, when not in use. At the time of our visit, they were con- structing a dock sufficiently large to enable them to build a ship of one hundred guns in it'. (1) A* tlie Fortress of SweaOorg has been seldom visited or described, some additional information h here annexed, from Fortiu's Travels in Sweden, S W E A B O R G. 369 The garrison, at present, consists of three re- chap. IX. giments, one of marines and two of infantry. There are besides, in Hehingfors and Sweaborg, twelve hundred artillery soldiers ; but only two hundred in the fortress. In time of war, the garrison contains ten thousand men, a number necessary to its proper defence. For these, every accommodation can be afforded within the walls. All the officers reside here with their families, in very comfortable apartments ; but we were informed, by those who had served in France, in the Regiment Royale de la SuMe, that in Lisle J and other fortresses of that country, the accommodations were far superior ; a captain being lodged better there, than a colonel in Sweaborg. The inhabitants of the garrison live Sweden, in 17 90 — 1792, The fortress is composed of seven small islands, or rather rocks, three of which are joined to each other by brid»^es. It requires half an hour to pass over from Hehingfors to the principal island (^Gustnfholm), on which the Governor's house is situate. No communication between the fortress and the town is practicable during the prevalence of a strong south-west wind. The construction of this place was begun in 1748 ; and although it be not yet complete, it is in a perfectly defensible condition. The harbour is excellent, being capable of containing sixty sail of the line. Large vessels cannot enter, but by an extremely narrow channel, commanded by the guns of the fortress. We saw, exclusively of mortars, one hundred and fifty pieces of cannon, which point upon this passage; and nearly one thousand pieces altoge- ther, including the land batteries, in the different forts. Many of the works are cut out of the solid rock. There is an eighth island, conti- guous to thai in which the fortress is situated ; whence, in case of the enemy getting a station, it might be successfully attarked. — See Pinker- ton * Voyages and Travels, vol, VI. VOL. XI. B B 370 BORGO. CHAP, in the most pleasant and social manner : they V ..y- ' have their assemblies and balls, at which more than forty ladies, many of them of great beauty, make their appearance. Siveaborg is much larger than Portsmouth; and, according to the opinion of Swedish officers who have seen both places, it is much stronger. They deem it impregnable : but whether it could be properly defended in the winter-time — when access to it is rendered so easy by the ice, and when, for want of water, which then becomes frozen in all the basins, a conflagration would produce the most dreadful efl^ects — we shall leave to the decision of persons who are more competent than ourselves to speak on these matters. Notwithstanding the extent of the works which were at that time carrying on, there were not more than three hundred men employed when we were at Siveaborg. Route From Helsingfors we came to Borgo, where ^•in^f"r!'to we stopped at a good but extravagant inn. The f omIL'""^ town is small ; though, for Finland, it is a con- siderable one. It has a Gymnasium, or School ; and possesses a Library, in which are preserved some of the earliest works of Linnceus. The houses are of wood, and painted red : the inha- bitants arc chiefly Swedes. As we proceeded to Forsbijy the road became more rocky. We passed LOUISA. 371 some woods of birch and fir; and in the latter ^^^^- part of our route, before we arrived at Louisa, we perceived a lake on our right. As we entered this town, we were stopped by a Custom-house officer ; who intended, as we supposed, that we should unpack all our baggage: but he at last observed, that if we would give him something, he would suffer us to pass. The manners of the people began to change ; and we found nothing here to remark, but dirt and drunken- ness. The town is rather pretty, and the prin- cipal street is wide : in summer it may perhaps be entitled to more praise ; as, doubtless, all these maritime places, situate on bays, creeks, and among islands, must then have a beautiful appearance ; for their shores are rarely destitute of trees. We could not quit Louisa so early as we wished ; being delayed by our pass, which, it should seem, was examined by many different persons ; for it was sent for, and brought back again, several times. It was necessary also to have our Swedish paper changed for Russian money, that we might be able to pay for our horses on the other side of the frontier. We here found that the Russian rouble was worth forty schillings Swedish. In going to Tesjo, we passed a forest of firs, growing in the interstices B B 2 372 RUSSIAN FRONTIER. of large loose rocks of granite. We slept at this place, within half a mile of the Swedish and Russian frontiers, in order that we might be ready to undergo the examination of the Custom- honse officers early the next morning. Approach ^^Q know not how to paint the extreme con- to the ^ Russian trast whicli appears in the short distance of an Frontier. English mile — from the Sivedish to the Russian guard. The country is still Finland, but it is Russian Finland; and to heighten the difference between an union with Sweden, and a subjugation by Russia, the Russian Finns are not those who make their appearance at the guard, but soldiers from the interior of the empire ; the reason of which will soon appear. In a company of the Tavasthuus militia, stationed at a small distance from the Sivedish Doiiane, on the east side of the western branch of the river, which separates the two countries, we had the last view of the benevolent and mild inhabitants of Siveden, They were a sturdy and athletic troop : and as it gave us a melancholy satisfaction to prolong the few moments of our farewell, by conver- sation with them, the officer on duty politely accompanied us as far as the Russian guard. Boiinaaries Jn passin": the little island which lies between of the ^ '^ swc-fiisii the Swedish and the Russian bridge, we expressed and Has- . . i r i i sian doii.i- a curiosity to know what lormed the precise niniis. RUSSIAN FRONTIER. 373 boundary of the two countries. The Swedish ^^^' officer shewed us a stone of about two tons < — /—^ weight, which is the only object that is sup- posed to break the neutrahty of this interval between the respective posts. Higher to the north is the Tammijara, a small lake in the western branch of the Kymene River ; which river, with the more remote waters of the Pyha and Wuoka lakes, forms the line of demarcation'. When the mind has been accustomed to repose implicitly on the fidelity and virtues of those around us, it is difficult to submit it all at once to a system of suspicion and caution. The confidence which had originated in the long-experienced honesty, goodness, and placid benignity of the inhabitants of Sweden did not entirely forsake us, as it ought to have done, on entering Russia* A few miles, nay, even a few yards, conduct you from a land of hospitality (l) " Siveden is at present reduced to the narrow but long country situate between Norway on the one hand, and the Baltic and the Gulf of Bothnia on the other. The loss of Finland is to be regretted, as a diminution of her population : the Finlanders were fully as warlike as the Sivedes ; and they seem to have a superiority over them in industry. But these disadvantages are scarcely a balance to the additional security which Sweden has thence derived, and to the consequent diminution of their expenses, as far as it is necessary to provide for the security of their country." — Thomson's Travels in Sweden, 1815. p. 417. When Dr. Thomson visited Svjeden, Norway had not been annexed to that country. lives of the two couU' tries. 374 RUSSIAN FRONTIER. ^?x^" ^^^ virtue, to a den of thieves. We suffered ' V " ■ for this want of caution, in the loss of the first moveables on which the Russians could lay their hands. We had, indeed, been forewarned of their pilfering disposition, but did not imagine that we should so soon experience the truth of the information which we had received respecting this part of the Russian character. Contrast Wc havc alludcd to the guard of soldiers who the Na- are sent from the interior of the country, to be stationed on the Russian frontier. In this, we see a remarkable contrast in the manners of the two nations. The Sivedish frontier is guarded by the Tavasthuus militia, natives of the districts they are stationed to defend. Siueden carries on no war against its own subjects ; it transacts no deeds of darkness on its own frontier ; the defence of them is entrusted to armed natives. Mode of But with Russia, the case is very different : her recruiting . iheiiiisshm Govcmment was employed, at the time we '"^'"^ entered the country, in kidnapping, during the night, all the young men who could be found in their houses, to supply the armies. Their hands and legs were bound, and they were cast into sledges, like calves. As this naturally begets a desire in the Russians who inhabit the borders to migrate to the Sivedish side, that they may experience the influence of a milder govern- RUSSIAN FRONTIER. 375 ment, it is necessary to have piquets stationed chap. along the line, and roving Cossacks, to prevent ^.^ — ^— ^ desertion. Strangers are evidently wanted for this purpose ; as few of the natives would intercept a brother or a friend, in his flight from tyranny. Having crossed the Russian bridge, we were ordered to halt, by one of the sentinels, a dwarfish meagre figure with a sallow com- plexion and a long cloak, who, with scarcely strength enough to shoulder a musket, stood shivering before a large fire. A little above was the wretched hovel which serves as a guard- house. Notice being given of our arrival, we were ordered to approach ; and after a few necessary ceremonies, we passed to the Custom- house, a little higher up on the left-hand. Here we were ushered into a tolerably neat little room, where sate an officer with a lame foot on a couch. He could neither talk French nor English, and very little Swedish; so that we had no means of communication, until at length he surprised us by asking if we spoke Latin. Our passports were then examined, and returned. "We had reason to fear that our servants would be detained ; for although they had been included in the passports of the Danish and Swedish Sove- reigns, and expressly mentioned in that of our 376 RUSSIAN FRONTIER. ^?x ^* ^^^ ^^ Government, they had not been included ' — » — ' in the Russian. Our passports were, however, signed and delivered to us^ with an assurance that we were at liberty to proceed. As we Iniquitous advanced to the carriage, an inspector of the conduct of . ^ , . a liussian Customs, a renegado Finriy informed us, m jspeaor ^^^ Stvedish language, that he had two hand- some pipes to sell. We thanked him, but informed him that we did not use tobacco. " Yah so^V he replied; "but you have some Stvedish money, which I will accept in exchange for Russian" He then produced two false notes, one for fifty, the other for five roubles, which, he said, was all the Russian money he possessed. As the imposition was too glaring to pass, and the Sivedish officer openly pronounced the notes to be bad, we declined having any dealings with the Inspector. Upon this, he snatched from my hands one of our passports; and opening it, declared, that as the names of the servants were not included, they might attempt to pro- ceed at their peril ; calling, at the same time, to the soldiers to mind their duty, or to abide the consequences. We in vain entreated that they might be accompanied by a guard to Fredericks- (1) For tlic ditterent import and meaning of this cxprcbbion, bcc p. 157 of thi> volume. RUSSIAN FRONTIER. 377 hamm, where we miofht state our situation to chap. ° _ IX. the Commandant; adding, that all expenses --^ — , — ' should be defrayed by us, and the soldiers liberally rewarded. We represented, that a journey of three hundred versts, to Petersburg, in so severe a season of the year, with so much baggage, and without a knowledge of the lan- guage, would subject us to the greatest hard- ships, and perhaps to the loss of all our trunks. But our attempts to persuade him were fruit- less : his honour had been wounded by the detection of his villainy ; and therefore, making a virtue of revenge, he would for once fulfil his duty to his Sovereign, by exactions of the most vexatious and frivolous kind. He had also, without doubt, a hope that our servants would be left in his hands ; by which means a new demand might be made upon us, subject to the most flagrant imposition. The Swedish officer, with the politeness and hospitality of his nation, and justly indignant at what he had witnessed, conducted them back to Louisa, assuring us that they should be taken care of, until we were able to send for them from Petersburg:. The author has frequently avoided, in the Difficulties course of the account of these Travels, the un- pede the necessary insertion of circumstances and adven- pJslia! '^ tures, the narrative of which might have the IX. 378 RUSSIAN FRONTIER. CHAP, appearance of egotism. The statement of what occurred on first entering the Russian frontier will not, he trusts, expose him to this charge. An omission of that which serves to characterize a nation, or part of a nation, and which may prove a caution to travellers, would be, indeed, neglect. We might add, to the conduct of the inspector, a catalogue of difficulties which quickly succeeded each other, during our expedition to Petersburg, through a country more inhospitable than the deserts of Tahtary. Attempts were frequently made to impede our progress. In the small towns, there is generally found a miserable innkeeper, to whom the officers are frequently in debt : it is his interest, therefore, to detain the traveller : and the officer on guard, or even his superior, has little difficulty in dis- covering some method by which this object may be accomplished. The tract of land between Aherfors and Fre- derickshamm is the scene of the last glories in the life of Gustavus the Third of Sweden. He carried his conquests even to the walls of that fortress ; and, had it not been for the perfidy of his offi- cers, would have received a more splendid crown of victory within the city of Petersburg. The spot, where the contest between the armies was most severe, is about three Swedish miles from FREDEIIICKSHAMM. 379 Jlberfors, at jinjala. In this route, wherever chap. the Russians appeared, a striking difference was v . »v > visible between their figure, features, manners and dress, and those of the Finns. The hair and complexion of the latter were lighter : the Russians wore long beards, with their necks bare. At a short distance before we arrived at Frederickshamm^ we passed round a Russian sta- Arrival at Fredericks. tion, the fortifications of which had been lately hamm. thrown up. We considered ourselves happy in not meeting with any further interruption. We saw few peasants ; and those whom we met had a very poor and wretched aspect. It is impossible to conceive a more desolate tract of country than the whole route from Louisa to Frederickshamm. Some white houses, parti- cularly the Town-house, a large building in the centre, painted white and green, gave to Fre- derickshamm a lively appearance. The fortifica-- tions were very regular ; and the street, by which we entered, was straight, and terminated in the Town-house. We were suffered to pro- ceed through the exterior parts of the fortifica- tions without interruption ; but on coming to the interior gate, we were stopped, and our passes examined. While we were detained, a sudden shout was raised by all tl^e soldiers on guard ; and they ran to arms. We found, on 380 FREDEKICKSHAMM. CHAP, looking round, that the appearance of the Go- < .^, — -' vernor, in his carriage, was the cause of this bustle. The beating of the drums, and the noise of the muskets, made our horses rear and plunge ; and as we were in the gateway, the Governor was obliged to give orders to the sol- diers to cease, that we might move on one side, and make room for him. When he had passed, some of the officers spoke to us in French, and asked how long we proposed staying in the town ; and said that our passports should be returned Reguia- to US the ucxt morniug. We were informed, iaiin/J that it was necessary to obtain from the Governor Rvl'si^. '" ^ paper, called poderosnoy, to shew at every post-house; as without it we could not procure horses. For this paper we were to pay one copeek a verst, for each horse. The Com- mandant of the garrison shewed us great civility : we attended his levee, with all the officers, whom he received in his robe de chambre, with his breast and bosom bare. Having re- ceived our passports, which were signed and countersigned, and our permit for horses, we set out ; but were stopped for above half an hour on quitting the town, and our passports were again examined. Frederichshamm had once a little trade ; but since the exportation of timber has been for- RUSSIAN FINLAND. 381 bidden, and the town has been filled with sol- chap. IX diers, this has almost entirely ceased. We - -,- - proceeded to Kouxis, distant sixteen versts, through a stony and rocky kind of country : the road during the next stage was varied with more hills. At every post-house, when we Reguia- •^ ^ ■ tion re- asked for horses, twelve or fifteen peasants laUngto 1 1 • rvi. Posting in generally made their appearance. They were iiussia. dressed chiefly in a kind of loose coarse linen coat and trowsers, and had a particularly clownish and boorish look. At each of these houses, a Russian soldier is placed, as the manager ; and to him we were directed to give ten copeeks, for what is called, in England, drink-money. He also receives the sum which is to be paid for the horses ; and demands it before the traveller leaves the place. This regulation was caused by the conduct of the Russian officers, who not unfrequently paid the poor peasants with the blows of their canes, instead of with copper. Many of the houses, in the villages we passed through, were without chimneys; and the houses themselves were of smaller size, and of a more miserable appearance than those we had re- marked in Swedish Finland. The peasants whom we saw in this journey bore a strong resemblance to the Laplanders. It is almost impossible for the Reader, from any thing he has either seen 382 RUSSIAN FINLAND. CHAP. QY heard, to form any idea of the inside of these " ^^ — ' post-houses. That at Ursa/a was nothing but a Descrin- tian of t!ic dark hole : a partition with something like a bed in "hu.-.ici in it was reserved for the Russian soldier, to whom the Finnish peasants seemed to pay great respect. The other part of the room had a broad bench round it, placed against the walls, on which the peasants slept. We were, upon the whole, much struck with the evident infe- riority, both in looks and apparent condition, of the Russian Finlanders, in comparison with the Swedish. The distance between Frederickshamm and Wihourg is one hundred and ten versts; and there is not a single house in which it is possible ^"/f"f for a traveller to sleep. The thermometer fell, cold of the ^ weather duriuo" the nisht, to fifteen and twenty degrees during the ® "'«''»'• below O of Celsius: and we were sometimes com- pelled to go into the post-houses for warmth. In the carriage our breath froze into a coat of ice on an earthenware bottle, as we drank some wine ; and if we held it to our mouth, the ski a stuck to it. All the furs we could apply to our bodies and feet were no defence against the frost. The poor peasants, who drove us, presented, at the end of every stage, faces as it were in armour with ice ; and their fur-caps and hair were covered with icicles. When we stepped RUSSIAN FINLAND. 383 into their houses, which are as hot as a vapour- chap. bath, we found the air within, on opening the door, instantly converted to snow', which is whirled round and round, so that every thing in the first moment is invisible, as if the room were filled with a thick smoke. When this has subsided, a scene presents itself, to which nothing in any part of Lapland has the least resemblance. The only light is afforded by a deal splinter stuck horizontally within the wall. The roof and sides are as black as night. As the thick vapour disperses, a figure appears close to you, with a long dark beard, and hair eyes, distilling rheum ; and a face fixed in mute astonishment. Suddenly, from a sloping bench, like a writing-desk, extending the whole length of the apartment, twelve or thirteen other similar spectres start up, with a Babel confusion of tongues — Finnish, Swedish, Russian. There is no country where horses are supplied with greater expedition : sixteen may be found waiting at every stage ; and in no part of Europe can accidents to your harness or sledge be more quickly repaired. Our traces broke ; and half- (1) Maupertuis and the French Academicians, in their journey to Tornea to measure a degree for ascertaining the figure of the eartli, made a similar remark: " On opening the d«or of a warm room, the external air, rusiiing in, instantly converted the vapour into a fit ece of snow." 384 WIBOURG. CHAP, a-dozen peasants, in the midst of a crowd which " one would have imagined would only have con- IVibuuri fused them, formed a braided work of ropes in a few moments, which lasted the whole of the way from Frederic kshamm to Wihourg. We travelled during the night, without any moon ; frequently at the rate of ten versts in the hour. Ten copeeks, or five pence, for six horses, is the usual sum paid to the peasants ; but fifteen (or sevenpence-halfpenny), which I believe is generally given by English travellers to these poor men, is received by them with surprise and joy. Arrival at Whcu wc arovcd at the gates of JVihourg, our drivers suddenly withdrew ; and, huddling to- gether under the gate, remained for two hoars in a degree of cold that we thought would have killed the horses, without telling us the reason. The gates of the fortress were not yet opened ; and we waited until seven o'clock in that situa- tion. As soon as we arrived, the Commandant and General-in-chief of the forces at JVibourg, General Fon Frangel, sent for us, by one of his oliicers; received us with great pohteness; in- vited us to a masquerade, and to dinner ; and requested us to attend him upon the parade at eleven o'clock. He said he had received orders to permit us to proceed on our journey to W I B O U R G. 385 Petersburg, ever since the month of May. This ^!l^^- was information of great importance to us ; for an ' y > officer soon discovered, and remarked, that our passes were not from the Crown, Wibourg, in the time of the late Empress, was burnt down : it has been rebuilt upon a regular plan. The edifices are all of brick, none of wood being allowed ; and are large and grand : the square is very spacious. The town has a military appearance : drums are heard from morning to night : the troops are exercised every day, not excepting Sundays. We could not help admiring the extraordinary regularity and accuracy with which they performed all their manoeuvres. The soldiers, when collected together, seemed a fine set of men ; but when we examined them individually, we were disap- pointed in their appearance. The officers, of whom there were many present, were, in general, ill-looking, small, badly made ; and very few of them had the air of Gentlemen. Once or twice during the exercise, every one present pulled oif his hat : we observed this ceremony repeated frequently ; and there was much apparent servility on the part of the inferior officers towards the higher. With the leave of the Commandant, we walked round the ramparts, accompanied by the Major de Place, who was VOL. XI. c c 386 WIBOURG. CHAP, also a Lieutenant-colonel. He informed us, in ' French, that the troops commanded by General Von Frangel consisted of four battalions, each of a thousand men ; and that there were in addition, in the town, two battalions, also of a thousand men each, under the command of General Kutusof, the General-in-chief of the forces in Fijiland; and a corps of engineers. The town is generally provisioned for a year : it seemed to consist chiefly of the houses of the officers, barracks for the soldiers, magazines, and churches. To garrison the place in time of war, the Colonel informed us that sixteen thousand men would be necessary. The fortifications were strong and regular, but very little assisted by nature. From the top of the tower of the castle, which is of some height, we had a view of the surrounding country. The situation was flat, and the fauxbourgs had a poor and miserable appearance. The port will not admit ships that draw more than eight or ten feet water. Many of the merchants have become bankrupts, by the Emperor's prohibition of the exportation of timber, in which their trade principally con- sisted. Applications have been made, to ex- port what has been already cut; but without success. The day after our arrival at JVibourgy our W I B O U R G. 387 CHAP, IX. curiosity got the better of our feeling;s, and we went to see the mode in which the Russians in- ^— v ' /T •. 1- IT r ^ • Russian flict punishment on their soldiers, tor desertion, mode of Five hundred men were drawn up, in three Hne?, punkh.^ forming two alleys, through which the deserter Seslr°ers. was to pass six times. A drummer preceded him, to prevent his walking too fast ; and each soldier had a stick, with which he struck him; As soon as the punishment began, we turned another way; but were informed, afterwards, that it was more severe than we should have expected from the size of the sticks. Many soldiers desert into Swedish Fin/and; but they are frequently apprehended, in their attempts to reach the frontier, by the peasants ; who are exasperated against them, on account of the rob- beries which they commit in their flight, for the purpose of supporting themselves. Five silver roubles are the reward for taking a deserter. The inhabitants of Wibours: are partly Russians inhabitants ™ oUribourg. and partly Finns. The former are generally distinguished by their beards : in their dress, they have the appearance of Jews, a long loose coat being tied round the waist with a sash. The Finland girls wear their hair drawn to- gether, and fastened at the back of the head with a little circular roll, and a pin stuck through it. The principal articles in request in this c c 2 388 RUSSIAN FINLAND. ^?x^' ^^^'^^^ ^^ luxuries, are, French brandy, sugar, V — V- — wine, and coffee, all of which are very dear. The Finns, who bring corn and planks to JVibourg, return with salt. Here, and at Frederic kshamm, we found the finest bread we had ever tasted. On inquiring the price of provisions, we were informed that a sack of rye of nine pouds cost seven roubles ; which is not higher than it was two or three years ago, though double or triple of what it was twenty or twenty- five years since. From Wibourg, we proceeded, through Konuta and Roriver, to Pampola, a distance of sixty-two versts, over a flat country, passing through forests of fir and birch trees. Pampola is rather a large village : we observed the gable-ends of the houses always turned towards the road : the only openings which were left for light were, one small window with glass, and two holes on each side without any ; all placed at the same end of the house. At Bulostrof, thirty-eight versts distant from Pampola, we entered one of the peasant's cottages, a wretched abode quite black with smoke : the holes for light, on each side of the window, were not so much as a foot square. There appeared to be two families, consisting of two men, two women, and five or six children : the latter did not look so unhealthy APPROACH TO PETERSBURG. 389 as we might have expected from the extreme chap, heat and dirt of the room. A bench, round two " ^ ' sides of the cottage, appeared to be the general sleeping-place. They expressed great surprise on our entering ; and one of the women, on my offering to her a five-copeek piece, stared, and refused to take it. I then placed it on the table, where was some bread; of which they oiFered me a piece, in return for the money. The bread was of rye, dark-coloured, little baked, but had not a bad taste. In going to Drasnicof, we passed through the same land of country as before; but the firs were of larger size. The roads are made, in general, with small trees, thrown across, and covered with dirt and sand. When the trees are decayed, or recently laid down, the motion of the carriage is extremely rough and un- pleasant. The view of Petersburg presented itself to us Arrival at , Petersburg. at some distance before we arrived at the last barrier, where our passports were examined. We then entered a broad and perfectly straight avenue ; the further extremity being terminated by the domes and palaces of the city. CHAP. X. PETERSBURG. General appearance of the City — Novelty of the Scene exhibited in the Dresses and Figures of the Inhabitants — Expense in the mode of living among the Higher Ranks — Collections of Art, in the possession of Indivi- duals — Amusements of the different Classes of Society — Ice-Hills — Visit to some of the Public Institutions — Academy of Sciences — Library attached to it — Museum — valuable Collections, in different branches of Natural History, preserved there — Peter the First — Academy of Fine Arts — nature of the Institution — Fortress — Tombs of the Imperial Family — Mint — Statue of Peter the First — defect of taste in the Artist — expense of ' PETERSBJIRG. 391 r)fthe Work — Hermitage — Pictures — Hall of St. George — Palaces of' Peterhof and Oranienbaum — State of the Peasantry — Mode of managing the estates of the Russian Nobility — Checks to Population. We reached the first gate of Petersburg about chap. eleven o'clock ; and were ordered by the sentinel >— y — to stop, and descend from our carriage. Our passports were presented, as usual; but he would not even lift up his arm to take them : it was contrary to order, he said, to receive them ; and we must go ourselves to the officer upon guard ; by whom we were detained half an hour, and then sent with a sentinel to the city. We approached it by its most beautiful quarter, crossing the Neva upon the ice, which was covered with sledges ; and landed again oppo- site to the Marble Palace. The united magnificence of all the cities of General appearanc e Europe could but equal Petersburg. There is of the city, nothing little or mean, to offend the eye — all is grand, extensive, large, and open. The streets, which are wide and straight, seem to consist entirely of palaces : the edifices are white, lofty, and regular. At first sight, the whole city ap- pears to be built with stone ; but on a nearer inspection, you find the walls are of brick, covered with plaister ; yet every part is so clear; and in such excellent order, and has an appear- 392 PETERSBURG. ance so new, that the effect is as fine and striking as if they were formed of marble. The public structures, on whatever side you direct your attention — quays, piers, ramparts — are all com- posed of masses of solid granite^, calculated to endure for ages. It seems as if the antient Etruscans or Egyptians — stimulated by emulation to surpass their prodigious works, aided by despotic power, and instructed by Grecian taste — had arisen, to astonish the modern world. Such is the metropolis which Catharine has left! Much had been done by her predecessors ; but her labours surpassed them all : and our admi- ration is increased, while we behold the magni- ficence of the buildings, the breadth of the streets, the squares, and openings, and noble palaces — and recollect that a century has not yet elapsed, since the first stone of the foundation of the city was laid by Peter the Great. We were told that we should find Petersburg like London, and that we should everywhere hear the lanjifuage and see the manners of England; (1) " IjCS (jiiais de \a. Neva et dii magnifique Canal de Catharine sont construits de ce granit: les remparts de la fortresse en sont revutus." Palr/'n. ITiiloire Nalurclle des MinSrcaux, tome I. p. 96. The gra- nite he alludes to is called Granit de I'lngrie, which he describes, p. 95. lie there states, that a colonnade in the Summer Garden is composed of more than sixty pillars of granite ; each column being of one piece, twenty feet in length, and three feet in diameter. PETERSBURG. 393 but nothing can be farther from the truth. This city presents to the stranger a sight as novel and interesting as any which he will meet with in Europe. In the general appearance of features and countenance, the Russians have nothing very characteristic ; and when their beards are cut off, as is the case with those who live as servants in the families of Gentlemen, they could not be distinguished from English- men: but in the dresses of the people we are reminded of the inhabitants of some Asiatic towns ; though perhaps in summer, when the robes, pelisses, and caps are not worn, the impression may be different. The resemblance to Asiatic customs and manners, perceptible in Moscow and Petersburg, will probably decrease, in proportion to the intercourse of the Russians with other parts of Europe. The style of dress in the seventeenth century was more Oriental than it is at present : a robe was then in use called Fereclja, which is a Turkish word-. At this season, the streets are filled with sledges ; and with peasants in various costumes, having long beards, straight locks, bare necks, and their feet covered with shoes of the matted bark of trees. (2) In parts of Petersburg, the shops which sell the same articles adjoin each other, as in the Bazars of Cointanlinople and other cities of the East. 394 PETERSBURG. CHAP. With respect to magnificence, Petersburg is as » -V / much superior to London, as London is to any Expense ia provincial citj ill England ; and the style and of living mode of living adopted by the Nobles exceeds hi^hef * ^ all belief. The most distant provinces of the '*"^^* empire are explored, to furnish some delicacy for their entertainments : two, three, or even four hundred roubles are expended on parti- cular dishes. At no season of the year are their tables without fruits of the rarest and most exquisite kind. Immense revenues are neces- sary, to support the prodigality and profusion exhibited by many of the Rmsians of the highest rank. The number of servants who are the vassals of the great land-owners amounts to two or three hundred ; who supply, in various ways, by their different occupations, the wants, tastes, and demands of their masters'. The love and admiration of what is foreign, encou- rage many strangers to settle here, whose talents and ingenuity are constantly employed in furnishing and ornamenting the palaces of the Noblemen in the most sumptuous and splendid manner. The Collections of Art in the possession of (1) " I never put my hands into my purse for any thing," said a liussinn Nohleman to a friend of the writer of tliis note, " but to pur- chase foreign wines, and articles for my wife's dress." — He was provided with every thing ho wanted from his estate and his slaves. PETERSBURG. 395 individuals at Petersburg, as well as in London, c^^- were enriched by very valuable works, which, individuals. . . Collections in consequence ol the revolutions m parts of of An in Europe, were disposed over the Continent. sessfoTof Some of these we were allowed, by the kind- ness and hospitality of their owners, to examine ; but they neither equal in extent or in real value those we have described, in another Part of this Work, as existing at Moscow. The Picture- gallery of Count Strogonof is a long room termi- nated by an enormous mirror, which, sliding on one side, opens to the Library ; and beyond that is the Museum. Among the most remarkable paintings, we shall mention ; i . The Flight into Egypt, by Nicolas Poussin, the most brilliant work of that master. 2. A Centaur fighting with one of the Lapithae, by Luca Giordano. 3.Les Pecheurs, by Teniers, a work much esteemed by connoisseurs. 4. A Philosopher, or Hermit, by Rembrandt, of great effect. 5. A Holy Family, by Schedoni, from the collection of Monsieur de Calonne. 6. Abraham, Sarah, and Hagar, by Dietrici. J. The famous Claude, originally be- longing to the Duchess of Kingston. It is sin- gular, that, in rubbing this picture, a figure has appeared, which the painter had concealed. 8. The finest Portrait by Vandyke that perhaps ever proceeded from his hand. Vernet, standing 396 PETERSBURG. CHAP, for some time opposite to it, at Faris, at ' — » ' length exclaimed, "Parle done!'' There are also many good pictures by Spagnolet, Kuyp, and Bershami. In the Museum is a curious Plate of China porcelain ; the outer varnish of which having worn off, a representation is seen of the Crucifixion, with these letters over the cross, ' INRI.' The Cabinet of Mineralogy contains very magnificent specimens, but with- out any order or classification. There is a whole cabinet of malachite: one piece, bought of Dr. Guthrie for a prodigious sum, is contained in a case by itself. The finest specimens are furnished by China and Siberia : the mine of Goumechefski formerly produced the best ; but this mineral is now no longer found there'. Count Besherodko was engaged only four years in forming his collection ; but spared no expense, during that time, to render it as complete as possible. We found there many pictures we had seen before in different parts of Europe, Among them is a most singular one, by Dietrici: it is said there are others, at Dresden, executed (1) " Lainine de Goumechefski est a douze ou quinze lieues au sud- ouest d'Ekaterinbourg, dans la partie centrale dc la cliaine des Monts Oural ; c'est de toutcs les mines connues cellc qui a fourni les plus beaux morceaux en ce genre. Cette mine est dans une espece de plaine, au bord d'un lac, et tout entouree de montagncs primitives." — Patrin, Hiftoire Xalurelle de.t Mincmux, tome Y, p. 97. PETER8BUKG. 397 in the same style : it possesses, instead of his chap. laboured and finished manner, the wildness and boldness, oi Saivato?' Rosa. — 'Judith with the HEAD OF HoLOFERNEs,' I had Seen at Fe72zce .* the drapery is green, but remarkably kept down. On approaching to examine the colours in detail, they will be found to consist of yellow, brown, black, white, and many other demi-tints. In addition to the excellent pictures by the Masters of the Lombard, Bolognese, and Venetian Schools, there is a Avhole cabinet of the best works of Vernet, containing views of the prin- cipal towns and harbours of Europe. The col- lection of antiquities is very great ; and there is a magnificent room, planned by Guarenghi, and finished under his direction, furnished in the most splendid and costly manner. The Library of Baron 6'/;ro^o72o/" undoubtedly contains some valuable books ; but many of the editions are modern : they are very splendid ; and the owner seems in general to have paid more attention to finery and show than utility. We observed in it three diflferent copies of the French Encyclopedie. Notices attached to the advertisements and bills of the Play-houses mark in a striking manner the character of the climate. They state, that if the cold is below 17 degrees 398 PETERSBURG. CHAP, there will be no representation at the Theatre'. ' — sr«— ' The observations are made on the scale of Reaumur; and there is hardly a house, whatever be the rank of its owner, without a thermo- Amuse- meter. The masquerades form part of the merits of ^ ■*■ the differ- amusements at this season. The first took place ent classes . , . of Society, on a Sunday, at ten in the morning. At night, the Empress came, followed by the wives of the Grand-dukes Alexander and Constantine, and by all the Court. The dances began soon after her arrival. Madame Chevalier, the mistress of Koutizof the Emperor's favourite, seemed to occupy as much attention as the Empress her- self. Another masquerade, on the following Tuesday, was much crowded, and there were more persons in character than in dominoes. The most interesting were a set of costumes of the different provinces of the empire. While the higher orders partake of the diver- sions of the season, the lower ranks are not without their festivities and sports. The frozen Neva presents a crowded and busy scene. In one part, booths are erected on the ice, where brandy and drams of every kind are sold : in another direction are pedlars, mountebanks, and (1) The Vignette to this Chapter represents the Stone Theatre;' as h appeared in 1801 ; with some of the Public Stoves. PETERSBURG. 399 jugglers, and the pastimes of Bartholomew Fair: in a different place are dramatic representations of a burlesque and ridiculous nature, to which the spectators are admitted for a few copeeks. The ice-hills afford an amusement to the popu- ice-hiiis. lace, peculiar to the inhabitants of Russia, A scaffolding of wood is raised on the river, to the height of forty feet : from the summit, an inclined plane, having a steep descent, is covered with blocks of ice, firmly united together by water poured over them. The sides of the steps, or ladder, which lead by the back part of the scaf- folding to the top, are decorated with fir-trees. The low sledge, resembling, in shape, a butcher's tray, descends the hill with a rapidity sufficiently great to carry the person seated in it over a large tract of ice cleared of the snow, to an oppo- site scaffolding, constructed in a similar manner. Here he takes his sledge on his back, mounts the steps, and proceeds as before. Those who do not wish to descend alone, have a guide, who seats himself in the sledge as far back as he can, raising his legs at the same time : the other per- son is placed before him, and between his legs, in a similar position^. The sledges, horses, and (2) This mode of descending is very well described in the Voyage de Deux Francois. " Le traineau consiste en une petite planche plus longue que large, et pea elev^e; une seule personne peut s'y tenir, encore n'e«t 400 PETERSBURG. CHAP, carriages, moving about in various directions, '■ y > and the crowds of spectators who assemble to behold this amusement, present a very striking and animated scene. Visit to j^|g scarcely necessary to observe, that a city some of the J J ■) j Public In- lii^e Petershurs: must possess many public Insti- stitutions. _ o I J L tutions — many monuments of art and industry, which afford to the stranger a constant subject of interest and instruction. No quarter of the Capital is without them. Some account will now be given of those we visited, during our residence here. of 'sciences. '^^^ Academy of Sciences, founded by Peter the Greai in 1724, has received donations and en- couragement from all the succeeding Sovereigns, and particularly Catharine the Second. The pre- sent revenue is from seventy to eighty thousand roubles. The Academicians are called Profes- sors, and have salaries varying from eight hundred to fifteen hundred roubles. Some of them derive an income, in addition to their n'est elle point a son aise. Le conducteur du traineau est assis, les jambes ouvertes, entre lesquelles se place celui qui veut descendre. L'un et I'autrc ont Tattention de tenir les jambes fort elevees, et le corps tres en arriere: ainsi places, et le traineau etant parfaitement droit, on le con- duit au bord de la descente, et on le laisse aller : le conducteur le dirige. La rapidite de la course est prodigieuse : et le traineau arrive sur le ter- rain plat, parcourt unc assez grnndc ctendue. Dans le premier moment la respiration est fort genee; il faut avoir Taltcntion de ne faire aucun mouvement d'un cote ou d'un autre; onscroit culbute." PETERSBURG. 401 stipends, from places or offices connected with the chap. Government : there are, however, others, who ■ are not so fortunate ; and, finding the salary, which was fixed at a time when the articles of life were at a lower price than they are now, in- sufficient to maintain them, become tutors and ushers in difi^erent seminaries. The four classes are those of Mathematics, Physics, Natural History, comprehending Chemistry and Ana- tomy, and Astronomy : and, on each of these subjects, lectures are given, at certain times of the year, in the Russian language. Among the distinguished members of the Academy, are found the names of Bayer, Gmelin, Euler, Millkr, and Pallas. The books of the Library amount, in number, Library. to fifty thousand. We cannot expect to find in it the literary treasures which are the ornament of those of London, Paris, and Vienna : there are few Greek or Latin manuscripts ; but there are many works, relating to the history of the coun- try, of great value; and the collection of Chinese, Mongol, and Tangutian manuscripts is unique. In a gallery, were arranged the dresses of various nations ; and waxen figures of the inhabitants, in their proper costumes — Persian, Chinese, Siberian, and Samoyede. The human countenance is here seen modified according to every possible VOL. XI. D D 402 PETERSBURG. CHAP. X. Museum. Worksliop of Piter the First. form — " long and round heads, flat and snub noses, hogs' eyes and calves' eyes, bearded and unbearded chins, succeed each other, in gro- tesque variety." The example of Peter the Great, who had expended large sums in procuring the most curious productions of nature and art to enrich the Museum, was followed by his successors, and by many of the nobles of the empire. Addi- tions are constantly made to the Museum, by the Academicians who are travelling in the remote provinces of Russia, or in different parts of Europe. The treasures which it contains, rela- ting to the mineral and vegetable kingdoms, are, perhaps, unrivalled. According to the account of Bachmeister, there are five hundred animals of different sizes, stuffed, or preserved in alcohol : there are also twelve hundred birds, stuffed : and the classes of amphibia, fishes, and insects, are very numerous. The Collection of Ruysch, containing the anatomical preparations of that great naturalist, was purchased by Peter the Great, in Holland, for thirty thousand florins. From the Library, we were introduced into a small chamber, which was the Workshop of Peter the First, filled with different carvings in ivory and copper, all executed by him, and generally representing sieges or battles. In the PETERSBURG. 403 middle of the room was a large ivory lustre by the same hand ; a number of medals struck on different occasions ; and the battle of Pultowa in relief, on a large plate of copper. In a gilt box, at one end, is carefully preserved the Manu- script of Catharine, containing instructions for the new code of laws proposed by her : it is written in rather a large careless hand, partly in Russian, partly in French, and forms a thin folio. In a small chamber within, is a figure of Peter the First, in wax, in his habit of ceremony. He appears to have been a large tall man ; his height, marked against the door, being about six feet six or seven inches. On each side of the figure are two cabinets filled with his clothes : in the first, is a blue coat lined with brown silk, and a hat with a hole made by a ball passing through it at Pultowa ; in the other, his leather working-dress, and a pair of shoes which he had mended himself. From this room we descended into two smaller ones, below stairs : in the first of which is a collection of fossils ; and, in the other, of mine- rals, placed over the sides and ceilings, in the form of a grotto. Here we saw the immense piece of native iron' found in Siberia by Professor (1) " Une masse de fer natif, pesant environ 60 myriagrammes, a ete trouvee en Siberie, pres des Monts Kemir, cntre Krasnoiarsk et D Y> <2 Abakansk : 40 i PETERSBURG. CHAP. X. Academy of Fine Arts. Pallas, weighing forty ponds.. There is also a curiously-wrought cabinet, with an Apollo of solid gold on the top of it. In one of the rooms, we saw the idols, utensils, and weapons which had been discovered in the Tahtarian sepulchres. In our visit to the Academy of the Fine Arts, we were accompanied by one of the eleves of the first class. He informed us, that the pupils are divided into five classes : in the three lowest, Reading, Writing, German, French, and Geo- graphy, are taught ; and in the other two, in which they remain six years, the arts of Engra- ving, Painting, and Sculpture. Those whom we saw at work were dressed in grey coats, and had a very neat appearance : the lower classes wear red. The proper number of pupils, when complete, is three hundred, each class contain- ing sixty ; and the list is now nearly full. The first room we entered was a handsome rotunda with pillars, ornamented, in the niches, with casts of statues, from the antique. We were then led into a very spacious room, eighty or ninety feet long, and thirty broad ; in which, also, were Abakansk : elle ctoit entierement composee de fur motalliqiic tics blanc et tres inalli;al)lc, reniplie de cavitcs Kphcriqucs, qui renfermoient une ma- ticre vitreusc, jauiiatre ct transparcnte Lcs Tartares regardoient ce ft-r coiTimc une pierre sacrce et tombee du del." — Pallas. " Ellc contient 0,9li^ dc fi r sur 0,01 ^- de nickel." — Kalproth. PETERSBURG. 405 some casts of statues, a few Italian paintings, chap. and the portraits of the principal Patrons of the Society, and the most celebrated Academicians. In the centre was the portrait of the Emperor^, and, on each side, his two sons. An allegorical picture, representing the late Empress, in the character of Minerva, had formerly been placed here, but was removed when Paul came to the throne. While he was Grand-duke, lie had learned to draw at the Academy ; and we were shewn the sketch of a head in chalk done by him ; and some heads in wax, and drawings, by the present Princesses, very well executed. The Italian paintings did not appear to possess very great merit : the best among them repre- sented Mars and Venus entangled in the 7iet hy Vulcan; but we could not learn the name of the artist. We next entered a long gallery, filled with casts from themost celebrated ancient statues ; a collection very similar to one we had seen at Stockholm. The rooms that we afterwards saw were furnished with paintings of the different Italian Schools ; with some which were the works of the Members of the Academy who had studied in Italy at the expense of the Society ; and with prize-pictures of the elSves, previous to their quitting the Institution. There was an 406 PETERSBURG. ^^^^- excellent cartoon by Mengs, from a HoIt/ Family 0^ Raphael, In one of the rooms was a model, in granite, of the rock which forms the pedestal of the famous statue of Peter ; and a representa- tion of the manner in which it was drawn to the water, rolling upon balls, in grooves. We saw many of the eleves at work, in painting and plas- ter. The building is extremely spacious, and all the rooms large and airy. We could not be admitted into the general dormitory, as it was locked ; but that of the highest class, which we entered, was very neat and clean : each pupil has a separate bed, and there were four beds in each room. The building is of a square form ; the front, towards the Neva, extremely hand- some, with columns in the middle and at the two extremities; but the upper part is disfigured by a green cupola. Notwithstanding the sup- port which is so liberally given to this Institu- tion by the Government, few artists have hitherto risen to any great eminence. A slight degree of reflection will explain the cause of this. A taste for works of art is not yet diffused through the provinces of the empire : in Moscow and Petersburg alone are found individuals possessing great wealth, and actuated by a desire of en- couraging native talent. But it is impossible that the numbers who quit the Academy can all PETERSBURG. 407 find sufficient employment in these capitals. It ^hap. is not from want of genius that so little has been ' — v — ' done ; but the Russian painters, finding no mo- tive to urge them to proceed in their profession, no stimulus to exertion, become indolent, and neglect the instructions which they have re- ceived. Many of the inferior artists are obliged to seek the means of a scanty livelihood by painting pictures' for the Churches. We visited the Fortress, one of the most an- Fortress. cient structures of the city, built on an island of the Neva, according to a plan drawn by Peter the First. It is of brick, faced with granite. Here we saw the Church where the Sovereigns of the Empire, from the time of Peter the Great to the present period, are buried. The spire is grace- ful and lofty, being two hundred and fifty feet in height ; but the inside of the church is distin- guished by no peculiar architectural beauty. Nothing can be more simple, more devoid of all splendour, than the Tombs : they are of plain uhornamented marble, with only an inscription containing the name of the person and the time of birth and death ; a mode of burial which we (I) Some of the artists of Brance dispose of their works in a similar manner. In visiting the public exhibition of paintings in the Louvre, in 1822, the writer of this note, on asking what became of the pictures of ordinary merit, of which the subjects were of a religious nature, was informed, that many were bought for Hie Cliurclies. 408 PETERSBURG. CHAP, niiist allow to be more suited than any other to ■ y - > the dignity of the character of those whose bodies they contain. They were all covered with a velvet pall embroidered with silver. The Russians cross themselves before the tomb of Peter the First. Catharine herself lies not in in greater state than any of her predecessors, nor in a manner different from that which be- longs to any private gentleman in an English church-yard. The Tombs are on the right side of the altar, and arranged in the following manner : Tombs of the Impe- rial Family. 6 5 4 3 1 1. Peter I. 4. Anne. 2. Catharine I. 5. Peter III. 3. Elizabeth. 6. Catharine IF. Mint. The Mint, established in part of the Fortress, is worked by steam-engines. Ten thousand ponds of silver, and seventy-three of gold, in ducats, had been coined this year for the Em- peror's private use. A piece of mechanism. PETERSBURG. 40i^ worked by the steam-engine, counted the number chap. which were struck. We have, in a former Part of these Travels, had occasion to mention circumstances illus- trating the thievish and pilfering propensities of some of the Russian nobles. When they enter a shop, they carry away things in their muffs. A party having visited the Mint, had the mean- ness to purloin two ducats ; and the poor slaves were forced to make good the loss. The view of Petersburg, in descending from the Fortress, is one of the grandest and the most striking that can be conceived. We be- held a great part of the city extended before us ; a series of noble^buildings, domes, houses, reaching to the distance of four miles ; the Ad- miralty, its Church, the Marble and Winter Palaces, and the Hermitage. In the quarter of St. Petersburg, we saw the House of PctCT the House of Peter the First; a small wooden build- First. ing, consisting only of three rooms ; one of which was about fifteen feet square ; the other, fifteen by twelve ; and the third, not ten feet square. These, with a little passage as an entrance, made up the whole of the house, and formed a curious contrast to the magnificent palaces of the modern city. On recrossing the Neva, we arrived at the 410 PETERSBURG. CHAP, colossal Statue erected by Catharine to the »>— .y — ' memory of the Founder of the Russian Empire. piteri. The merit of transporting the enormous mass of granite which serves as the pedestal of it, from the forest of Carelia to the water-side, and thence to the city, is entirely due to Count Carhuri. Being placed on balls of brass fifteen inches in circumference, which rolled on sledges over a causeway raised for the purpose, it was moved every day, by four hundred men, with the assistance of pulleys and a windlass, over a space of ground equal to about half a mile. From the coast, it was brought, on a raft of a peculiar construction, to the city. The original size of the rock was thirty-six feet in length, twenty in height, and as many in breadth ; but in forming it for the pedestal, a great part was cut off; and it was afterwards found necessary to add two pieces. The time of its erection is recorded by a simple inscription, in bronze, placed on one side : PETRO PRIMO CATHARINA SECUNDA 1782. The Russian Inscription, on the side facing the Admiralty, has the same meaning. The statue is a master-piece of art, and reflects the highest credit on the talents and genius of Falconet, the PETERSBURG. 411 sculptor. The Tsar, dressed simply, according" to the national costume, is seated on horseback : his left-hand holds the reins ; the right is ex- tended in a direction towards the Neva and the Fortress. The head, formed after a bust made by Mademoiselle de Collot, is crowned with a wreath of laurel. An appearance of stiffness in the right-arm is the only defect in this admirable figure ; but the statue of the horse is faultless ; and nothing can exceed the fire and animation with which this noble animal is represented in the act of galloping towards the summit of the rock, and trampling on a serpent endeavouring to impede his course. The height is sixteen feet : that of the Tsar, ten feet. The model of the statue, in plaster, was exposed to public view for many years ; but the statue itself was not allowed to be seen during the progress of the work. In the year 1782, when t*he whole was complete, the day of exhibiting it was com- memorated in a striking and solemn manner. The Empress, attended by her Court, assisted at the ceremony ; detachments of soldiers were drawn out, and placed round the statue ; dis- charges of cannon were the signal for the re- moval of the scaffolding; medals of gold and silver were distributed on the occasion ; and an CHAP. X. 412 PETERSBURG. CHAP, ukase was issued, proclaiming pardon to all v— y ' debtors of the Crown, under a certain sum. The rock having been diminished, and shaped according to the fancy and direction of the artist, has lost that bold and sublime appearance which it originally possessed. Cut and gar- nished, what, in the present state, does the whole exhibit ? — a colossal figure of a man and horse, and a miniature representation of a moun- tain ! A contradiction of this kind is absurd : it is the greatest violation of proportion that can exist. But the rock in its original state pre- tended to nothing : it was simply a rock, rude, and fashioned by the hand of Nature : and if it had been suffered to remain as Catharine cer- tainly wished it should, untouched and unmu- tilated, nothing could have marked with more truth and propriety the character of the man in whose memory the work was raised, than a representation of the horse forcing its way and endeavouring to attain the summit. According to a calculation made by the Office for super- intending the buildings of the city, the sum expended on the erection of this monument — including the cost of transporting the rock from its original site, the allowance to the artist who was engaged eight years in his labour, to the PETERSBURG. 413 person who cast the statue, and to others who ^^x.^* assisted in the inferior departments of the work ' » — ' — amounted to 4'24,6oo roubles. Proceeding, in an easterly direction, from Hermi- the spot where the statue is erected, we arrive **^^' at the Hermitage, a large pile of building con- nected with the JVinter Palace. We first passed through a small but elegant Theatre, in which some persons were rehearsing a play : it was rather dark, but the columns round the semicir- cular part, where the audience sate, appeared to us to be of fine marble. After passing through three rooms, two of which are filled with pic- tures, we entered a most beautiful Gallery, said to be an exact representation of the Fatican. The copies of the Cartoons of Raphael were well executed. From this gallery we were led into various suites of apartments almost all orna- mented with pictures. Those which formed part of the Houghton Collection, purchased by Catharine, were not arranged during her life- time : since her death, they have been hung up in the rooms of this palace ; and many have been injured by the process of cleaning and varnishing, through which they have passed: some have fortunately remained untouched, and retain all their original beauty and character: among these, we may mention the Prodigal Son George, 414 PETERSBURG. by Salvator Rosa, and the Holy Doctors of the Church\ the celebrated work of Guido. Some pictures by Murillo are in one of the saloons : in another, are a few admirable pieces by the two TVouvermanns : the collection is also adorned by some works of Nicolas and Gasper Poussin, Claude Lorraine, Teniers, and Rembrandt, and a few portraits by Vandyke, executed in his best manner. In one of the glass cabinets we ob- served an aigrette of diamonds, presented to the late Empress by the Grand Signior. Hall or St. The Hall of St. George, in a part of the palace adjoining the Hermitage, is a very magnificent room, about one hundred and thirty feet in length, and fifty in breadth. There are eighteen fluted Corinthian columns of fine marble, with gilded capitals, extending the length of the Hall : and six in breadth, placed with greater intervals, between every two ; pilasters on the wall cor- respond to them. At one end is the throne, of (1) "In this picture, which is by Guido, in his brightest manner, and perfectly preserved, there are six old men as large as life ; the ex- pression, drawing, design, and colouring, wonderfully fine. The Doctors of the Cliurch are consulting on the immaculateness of the Virgin, who is above in the clouds. After Sir Robert Walpole had bouglit this picture, and it was gone to Civita Vecchia to be shipped for England, Innocent XIII, then Pope, remanded it back, as being too fine to be suffered to go out of Rome; but on hearing who had bought it, he gave permission for its being sent away again." — Account of the Pictures at Houghton Hall, liy Horace Walpole. PETERSBURG. 41^5 crimson velvet and gold ; the back and canopy chap. ornamented with the Imperial arms : at the v y * other end are two groupes of sculpture, by Falconet ; one represents " Pygmalion admiring his own work ;" the other, " Prometheus com- municating fire to the image which he had formed." The figure of the woman in the first groupe, and the countenace and attitude of Pygmalion, are particularly excellent. On the southern shore of the Gulf of Cronstadt, Palace of Feterhof. and at twenty-five versts distance from the ca- pital, stands, in a lofty and commanding situation, the Imperial Palace of Peterhof. It was built in the reign of Peter the First, and has received additions from different Sovereigns ; and, conse- quently, presents various styles of architecture. We were shewn the Maison Hollandaise of that Emperor, a summer-house fitted up in the Dutch taste; a favourite spot, as from it he could behold Cronstadt and his fleet. In another part of the garden is a wooden house, having exter- nally the appearance of a cottage, but furnished inside with a number of mirrors, and in a style of great magnificence. In the palace itself were many suites of apartments ; some of them richly ornamented with gold. The bed-room of the Emperor was furnished in a very handsome manner : the bed was placed under a canopy ; 416 PETERSBURG. CHAP, and near it, on a golden stand, was the glass- « — ,«-> case for the crown, which the Emperor always takes with him. The first room into which we entered was fitted up with ?L profusion of portraits of Russian Peasants, male and female, in their diflferent costumes : many of them were exceed, ingly well executed, and represented some beautiful faces. Of the other apartments, those destined for the masquerades were the most remarkable for their size. Palace of Thc palace of Oranienhaum, distant a few Oranien- baunt. versts further, had been presented by Paul to the Grand-duke j4lexander: workmen were now engaged in fitting it up, for his residence ; but it was not supposed that he would live much here. We were told that there was little worth seeing within. In the grounds adjoining, we were shewn a building of very elegant form, erected by Catharine the Second: some of the apartments were furnished with tables of beau- tiful work in mosaic, and good paintings in fresco. Many smaller buildings, that were formerly placed in different parts of the grounds, had been pulled down. Out of 4700 peasants attached to this place, two hundred and fifty were taken, in rotation, every week, to work about the grounds. The person who accom- panied us, and who had the superintendence of PETERSBURG. 41/ them, informed us, that they were sometimes chap. rather idle, and required a little beating. This «-— y— » he did not administer himself, but, when he thought it necessary, sent them to the soldiers. The peasants pay three roubles a-year, besides this contribution in kind: they also furnish horses and carts. The peasants are slaves': these unfortunate stateofthe' 1 1 Ti 1 • 1 Peasantry.' people are sold, like cattle m the market ; and as much art and finesse are shewn by the nobles in disposing of them, as in the sale of their horses. If they are diseased, or infamous, or stupid, their faults and vices are concealed. They are often advertised in the Gazettes : and are let out on hire, or suffered to keep shops; their masters receiving the principal part of their gains. The price of a slave varies, ac- cording to circumstances : if he is a mechanic, an artisan, if he dresses hair — in short, if he knows how to procure a little money, the price rises in proportion to his abilities. The children of slaves are also slaves. The treatment which such persons must sometimes experience in Russia may be well conceived. We had once. (1) A peasant may obtain his liberty, either by manumission, as in the instance of domestics ; or by purchase ; or by serving in the arm;^ or navy. VOL. XI. E E 418 PETERSBURG. CHAP, in Petersburg, the pain to witness, in the public < .y I streets, the punishment which a meagre effemi- nate coward thought proper to bestow on a man who might have crushed him with a grasp : but he was a slave ! This contemptible tyrant, for no cause whatever that we could discover, was displaying his prowess, before a mob, by beating a peasant with a large bludgeon. The poor man bore the punishment without a groan or a tear, or even a word. His cowardly op- pressor seemed to think he distinguished him- self by the number of blows he gave; and became exasperated, because the object of his torture refused to shew, in any manner, that he felt the severity of the punishment. Unable to endure a spectacle so repugnant to the common feelings of humanity, and yet sensible of the danger of interfering in species of iniquity pro- tected and encouraged by the laws, we ventured, with great deference, to remonstrate, and to petition for the release of the peasant. " You know little," said his chastiser to us, in French, *' of this people : you have been so short a time in this country, that you have not learned how to manage a Russian : if you do not flea the skin from his body, you will never have him in any order whatever." There are, however, many proprietors in Rtcssia PETERSBURG. 419 whose general conduct to their peasants is di- chap. X.. rected by feelings of benevolence and kindness. ^ .y < The family of Prince Sheremetof have been re- markable, for some time, for the treatment of their slaves; many of whom are very rich, and not afraid to shew their wealth : their condition is, indeed, better than the peasants of the Crown. The Prince has 1 50,000 ; and receives, from each, five roubles a-year, as Capitation-tax. As an illustration of the wealth possessed by many of this class of men, we w^ere informed that the late Empress, wishing to obtain a supply, proposed to make a levy of one in five hundred ; which, with the population of that time, of nine millions, would amount to eighteen thousand : declaring, however, that those who would pay five hundred roubles should be exempted. The levy was made in the usual manner ; and fourteen thousand, out of the eighteen thousand, paid four hundred roubles. It is customary, on the different estates, for the peasants to go as soldiers ; and a family generally knows when they will have to send a son. The only exception to this takes place when either the Seigneur or the neigh- hood are desirous of ridding themselves of some man of bad character. The peasants on the estates of the Russian E E 2 420 PETERSBURG. CHAP, noblemen are allowed to manage the lands as » — , ' they please, provided they pay the Capitation- managing tax. This is different in different places ; as oftheli^Ms! much depends on the wants of the proprietor. s^an Nobi. rpj^^ higher the rank, and the greater the wealth, the happier, for the most part, are hiis peasants. Few of the Russian noblemen farm their own estates : when they do, their lands produce more ; but the situation of their peasants is ren- dered at once miserable. This is the case in Livonia and Poland, where some of the noble- men suffer their slaves to work for themselves only on Sunday, There are some estates appropriated to parti- cular branches of the Royal Family ; and the peasants attached to them are considered to be in a better condition than those belonsrino: to in- dividuals. There are peasants, but not many, who may be said to possess land of their own ; and these are chiefly the families of noblemen reduced to poverty, who have been permitted to enter into the class of vassals, and have had lands given to them by the Crown, which they hold under a particular tenure. On every estate, whether it belongs to the Crown or to an individual, a new enumeration and a new division of lands takes place every ten or twelve years. A family that loses any male children PETERSBURG. 421 during the interval pays for them until the next chap. enumeration. Forty acres is the common por- '- -v -* tion of land allotted ; but the quantity depends on the size of the family, or what they are thought able to cultivate, and on the plenty or scarcity of land on the estate. The tax is like a rent ; and the Seigneur in general does not trouble himself in what manner it is earned, whether by cultivating the farm, or leaving it, and working in a town : for the latter, however, permission is required. Many of the arrange- ments, relating to the division of the lands and internal regulations, are settled by the peasants themselves, the Elders of the village. When an estate is overpeopled, which, however, does not often happen, the peasants are sometimes transported to another place, and formed into a new colony. The brother of the Baroness Stro- gonof had an estate where the population was too great for the quantity of land ; but no incon- venience arose from it, as he received a certain capitation-tax, and allowed his peasants to go and earn it where they pleased. This was the method he pursued in general ; and therefore never gave himself any trouble, whether they cultivated the land that was allotted to them, or not. " Cela mest ^gal : cela me fait ni bien, ni 7nal ! " 422 PETERSBURG. CHAP. Early marriages are encouraged by the « — ,— ' Seigneurs. The principal checks to population Population, are, the recruiting service — the numbers lost before they join the army — the debauchery of the large villages — the custom of drinking great quantities of brandy ' — the small-pox, and other epidemic diseases. Scarcities do not often occur, though there have been partial ones. The price of labour was between eighty copeeks and a rouble a-day. Brandy was so cheap, that a man could completely intoxicate himself for eight copeeks. The price of labour had been trebled during the last twenty or thirty years ; and that of brandy had not been raised more than a third. The population of the city, ac- cording to a recent census, amounted to 200,000 persons, including the strangers ; a calculation (1) The result of the inquiries made relating to marriages, births, and deaths, is published occasionally by the Academicians, in their Memoirs. According to the observations of Professor Kraft, the mortality between the ages of twenty and twenty-five is very great. From 1764 to 1780, out of 47,538 males, and 26,899 females, there died, between the ages of fifteen and twenty, 364 males, and 670 females ; but between the ages of twenty-one and twenty- five, H, 752 men, and 973 women. — Starch slates the mortality between the ages of twenty and sixty to be very great; " Neither by the bodily frame, nor tlie climate, is this to be explained ; since both are favourable to life, as Hie periods till the fifteenth year suf- ficiently prove. Nothing, therefore, but the mode of living can account for this political calamity." He then mentions the cause, whicli was stated to us, among otiier circumstances, as afFeciing the population. " No other cause remains that we can atcusc of this terrible effect, than brandy." j). 94 — See also Tooke's Uussian Empire, vol. II. p. 156. PETERSBURG. 423 which places Petersburg after London, Paris, Vienna, and Naples. It was difficult, however, to obtain an accurate estimate; as some thousand workmen — bricklayers, masons, and labourers of various classes — come to the city in spring and summer, and quit it in autumn. Of the foreigners resident here, the Germans are the most numerous. The trades which contribute to luxury, ornament, and fashion, as well as those of general use, are carried on by them. Next to these, we may place the French; who follow, among other employments, those of cooks, hair-dressers, watch-makers, and milli- ners. CHAP. XL PETERSBURG. Benediction of the Waters of the Neva — Monastery of St. Alexander Nevsky — Religious Festival in honour of that Saint — Tombs — Church of St. Nicholas — Glass-house established by Potemkin — nature of the ivorks carried on there — Foundling Hospital — description of it — state of the Children — mortality tuhich prevails amongst them, — encouragement given to licentiousness by the Institution — Character, temper, and disposition of Paul, before his accession to the throne — Disrespect and insult shewn by him to the memory of Catharine, on his becoming Emperor — Anecdotes illustrating his extraordinary conduct — Remarks on the character of the Empress Catharine PETERSBURG. 425 Catharine — Deposition and murder of Peter the chap. Third. . ^]l . So much has been said in other works respecting tlie religious rites and usages of the Greek Church, that little need be introduced in this place on the subject. We shall only mention those ob- jects worthy of attention, noticed by us in the course of our visits to some of the churches ; and the annual ceremony of the Benediction of Benedk- tion of tJie the waters of the Neva. The last takes place on waters of the sixth of January (O.S.), and was formerly celebrated, with great splendour and magni- ficence, on the river. At present, a small Tem- ple, of an octagon form, made of wood, painted and adorned with crosses and pictures repre- senting parts of the history of John the Baptist, is erected on the Admiralty Canal : an inclosure is formed around it, and within is a hole cut in the ice. A platform, covered with scarlet cloth, leads from the Palace to the Temple ; along which the procession advances, consisting of the Archbishop, accompanied by Bishops and Dignitaries of the Church, the Imperial Family, and persons attached to the Court. Having arrived at the Temple, different prayers are recited ^ : after which, the Archbishop descends (1) The prayers used on this occasion are given by Dr. King, in his account of the Greek Church, p. 584. 426 PETERSBURG. a ladder placed within the octagon building, and dips. the cross thrice in the water ; the benediction being pronounced at the same time. Some of the water is then taken up in a vessel, and sprinkled on the surrounding spectators. The military, with their standards, the religious orders in their different dresses, the presence of the Imperial Family, and the crowds of people assembled together, form a very striking scene. The last occasion on which Peter the Great appeared in public, was at the celebration of this ceremony. He was previously indisposed : a severe cold attacked him on the day of the Benediction of the waters, increased his dis- order, and in a short time brought on his death. At the celebration of a ceremony of the same kind, which was instituted in the early period of the empire, at Moscow, an image of the Holy Virgin was plunged into the river ; the water was blessed by the Patriarch ; and the Tsar, and the persons of the Court who were present, were sprinkled ' with it. Monastery Xhc Monastcrv of ^t. Alexander Nevsky is o1S,i. Alex- "^ -^ under situatc ou thc left bank of the Neva, at the dis- Ncviky. (2) " Toule la jouriice on se rendait alors sur la glace : on y faisait dcs trous : le Patriaiclic benissait I'eau pour toutu I'annee, y enfonrait I'image de la Sainte Vicrge, et aspergt-ait le Tsar et les Courtisans." — Hiatoirc de Russie, par I.cvetrjue, fovi. IV. N'otc par Dipping, p. 150. PETERSBURG. 427 tance of four versts from the Admiraltyj in a chap. south-east direction : it was built by Peter the '■ ,- > Great, in order to receive the remains of one of his ancestors which were brought from the Con- vent of Godoretch in 1724. When we visited this monastery, the priests were performing the service in a small chapel, and not in the great church. After the singing, a sermon was read, in rather a fast and vulgar voice : at intervals, the people bowed and crossed themselves, some touching the ground with their foreheads. We observed, in general, that the women shewed the most, and the Monks the least devotion. The latter were dressed in black stiifF or camlet, with a high cap, and a black crape veil over it. After the service, we went into the great Church ; were we remarked three Monks before the Shrine of St. Alexander, saying a mass for a particular person who was standing near them. The prayers were read by one, in a singing tone ; and the two others joined at intervals, ' and made responses, taking a second or tenor at a particular part of the service. The head of the devotee was covered, for some time, with the mantle of the reader, and the book placed upon it : the person then kissed the book and the hand of the priest, paid his devotions to the shrine, gave a certain number of copeeks, and retired. We observed others, afterwards, ap- 428 PETERSBURG. CHAP, parently negotiating for a mass at a certain V V -' price, and sometimes unsuccessfully. A gentle- man with a cockade, accompanied by a servant in a silver-laced hat, seemed to be more fortu- nate, and had a mass said, and some water blessed for him. The latter part of the cere- mony was so long, that we did not stay to see the conclusion ; but were told, that he either carried the water home, or left it with the Monks, to be added to that which was already consecrated in the church. He did not appear to go through his part with much devotion ; and instead of bowing his forehead to the earth, in general only touched it with his hand. He afterwards, however, knelt down once or twice, and kissed the shrine. While they were saying the masses, many people came and paid their devotions to the shrine; always putting some money, at the same time, in a little box placed there for the purpose. The shrine is very handsome : religious emblems of various kinds, candelabra, reliques from Palestine, and a pall adorned with gold and jewels, form part of its decorations. The silver in it is said to weigh eighty pouds and eight pounds ; or 3208 pounds '. n) Wo were not in Petersburg at tliu time of the year when the great Festival occurs in honour of tlie Saint to whom tlie Monastery is dedi- cated. The author is indebted to a friend for permission to transcribe from PETERSBURG. 429 We afterwards went into another church be- chap. longing to the Convent, in which were some fine *■ — ^ — ' from his Journal the following account of what he observed on that occasion. " When we reached, with some difficulty, the Church, we found that the procession of Priests had arrived before us, and the service was begun. It was read in a chanting tone, and frequently interrupted by singing. All the people bowed, and crossed themselves, for some minutes. We were near the Shrine of the Saint, which was of massive silver, and very hand, some. Many waxen tapers were burning before it : some were brought by the devotees themselves, who also handed up money, which, we under- stood, was for the purpose of contributing to the expense of the lights. All that were able to approach the Shrine, kissed it ; having made, previously, several prostrations and bows. Every body appeared very devout : I lost, notwithstanding, my pocket-handkerchief. After a short time, we met with a Russian Gentleman, who spoke English, and took us under his protection ; and by his assistance we obtained a mucli better situation. Before the Communion-table were folding-doors, having open work of gold, and ornamented with circular paintings : immediately behind was a veil or curtain, which, when the Priests retired to receive the Sacrament, was drawn across the open-work, and the place was kept sacred from the eyes and observation of all. After the usual service was performed, as it was the name-day of the Grand-duke Alexander, the Bishops, six in num- ber, with the Metropolitan at their head, walked to the Shrine, and prayers were offered up for all the Royal Family, and for the Grand-duke in par- ticular. The Bible presented by the late Empress, the covers of which were of gold, and on one side most richly set with brilliants, amethysts, and other precious stones, was brought to the Shrine : the Metropolitan^ having taken his mitre from his head, read from it. As he was rather infirm, the Bishop of Casan had performed the greatest part of the service. Six Bishops stood before the Shrine, most splendidly arrayed» their mitres covered with pearls and other ornaments : at the extremity of tho line was the Greek Bishop, Eugenius, who appeared very old, and scarcely able to support himself. The Abbots who assisted in the ceremonies were dressed in robes of crimson velvet embroidered with gold. When the service was over, the Metropolitan, followed by the Other Bishops, returned to the Communion-table. He was supported by two of the Abbots and a page ; and, as he walked, all the people who were near, among whom were some of the principal Nobility, crowded round him, to kiss his hands. The Bishop of Casa7i received the same itiark of homage ; but less respect was shewn to the rest; and Eugenhis, the 4.30 PETERSBURG. CHAP, monuments : we observed particularly those ,.- — ' of Count Panin, Prince Galitzin, Count Beshe- rodko ; and a very handsome one of Narishkin. Over the tomb of Besherodko, a lamp was to be kept always burning before a small figure of Christ; and in an adjoining room was a rich crimson velvet and gold baldachin, under which was the body lying in state. In a room above stairs was a very good picture representing the Baptism of the Wife of the Grand-duke Alexander, previously to her marriage. It was the work of a slave who attended at the ceremony ; and was presented to the Empress, for the Hermi- the most venerable of all, from his great age, had no Abbot to support him in his tottering walk, nor did any persons offer to kiss his hand. When the Bishops had left the Shrine, the people crowded round it in great numbers, to pay their devotions, and kiss it. We were happy in having an opportunity of seeing all the country-people in their best apparel ; and were quite astonished at the rich dresses of some of the females, who, we were informed, were either peasants or bourgeoises. The head-dress was, in general, a kind of turban, with a deep gold lace round the forehead ; and a very large silk handkerchief, worked with gold and silver, falling from the top of the turban, down to the waist behind, and sometimes brought round before, like a cloak. Under this was a silk vest, meeting over the breast, and reaching some way below the waist; and under that, a petticoat. Many of the vests and petticoats were of the richest silk, worked with gold and silver. The upper part of the turban, when not covered by an handkerchief, was generally of velvet, flowered with gold. These dresses reminded me very much of some representations of those worn by Greek women, and were certainly not like any thing we had seen in the northern parts of Europe. The bour- geoises of the city appeared generally in old-fashioned silk jackets and petticoats, with high head-dresser, of silk handkerchiefs tied in the shape of turbans. All the peasants, and lower classes of citizens, wore their beards." PETERSBURG. 43I tage. She purchased his freedom, and gave him one thousand roubles. The style and manner of painting adopted in the pictures with which the Russian churches are frequently ornamented have been described in the former part of this work. In the Church of St. Nicholas, called also LEglise des Matelots, are church of many pictures of Christ and the Virgin Mary, hi studded with real or false gems : the glories of gold have the appearance of gilded horse-shoes, and, when many of them are seen together in the same piece, produce a singular effect. The inside of the building is roofed quite low ; and we were told that there was another church above. We observed the same arrangement in that of St. Vladimir ; where the lower church is used in winter, and the upper in summer. We afterwards went to the Glass-house esta- Giass- blished by Prince Potemhin ; where plate-glass eStabUshed of an extraordinary size is cast. The person ^^""!^« who superintended the business was sent by Potemkin to England, for some years, to learn the art. Having seen the different houses where the earlier parts of the process were going for- wards, we were taken to that part of the build- ing where the quicksilver is laid on, and there saw a glass supposed to be the largest that was ever made. The length was 1 65 inches ; the 432 PETERSBURG. CHAP, breadth, eighty nine ; and intended for one of ' — , — ^ the rooms in the Winter-Palace. The breadth occasions the greatest difficulty to the workmen. The price of it was 15,000 roubles. The im- mense copper-plate on which it was cast was made at Petersburg, for 20,000 roubles. Prince Potemkin applied, at first, to the manufactory at Paris, and was asked 20,000 roubles for the work alone, without the expense of the copper. The weight is one thousand pouds, or 40,000 pounds. At the death of the Prince, the manu- factory was taken by the Crown, but is sup- posed now not to pay much more than the ex- penses. The workmen had all a clean and comfortable appearance : they are slaves at- tached to the manufactory, which is the case in many other establishments : they here, however, receive pay, in proportion to the quantity of work executed. We were informed that the Crown seldom takes the labour of its peasants in kind : hired labourers are engaged in most of the public-works, foundling The Foundling Hospital, established by Catha- Hospital. vine the Second, in the vicinity of the Convent of Fbskresenski, but removed afterwards to the first quarter of the Admiralty, is a branch of the great institution at Moscoiu, also founded by her. The house is a handsome extensive building by PETERSBURG. 433 the Moika Canal, which had belonged to a noble- ^ "t^ man. The rooms are large, airy, and even ele- '^— v ' gant ; and are kept apparently with great neat- ness and cleanliness. We were first introduced to that part where the boys were dining, in number, as we were told, about ] 80 : they were dressed in red, blue, and brown, according to their classes. They were eating meat, with which they were constantly supplied, except on fast-days. The table-cloth was clean ; and each had a separate napkin : there was no disagreeable smell in the room ; and the provisions appeared to be so good, that we could have sate down, and partaken of their fare with pleasure. We then walked over different rooms, in which we saw much machinery ; but as it was a holiday, no one was at work. The boys are taught all kinds of trades : they learn to be tailors, to weave, to make shoes and stockings ; and each trade had a separate room appropriated to it. What is not used in the house, is sold ; but the profits do not go far in support of the establish- ment. In the magazine-rooms, there were some tolerable pieces of manufactured goods, but not much in quantity. We were next intro- duced to the Dormitory : the bedsteads are of iron ; the beds are composed of straw paillasses, but they have no testers nor curtains : they are VOL. XI. F F 434 PETERSBURG. ^^^ at four or five feet distance from each other ; ' — * — " and there was a separate one for each boy. We were then conducted to the apartments appro- priated to the young children, where we ob- served the same neatness we had remarked in the dormitory. All women who present them- selves to the Lying-in-Hospital connected with this institution, for the purpose of being taken into the house and delivered, are received, and no questions are asked ; but they cannot take their children away, when they quit it. An application was once made to the Empress in favour of a person of some quality, and granted. The children that are ' brought to the door in baskets are, after three days, sent into the country, to the wives of Ingrian and Finnish peasants, at the rate of two roubles a month : they return when they are six or seven years old, and are then fit to be taught some trade. The number in the country belonging to the establishment is six or seven thousand. All the children that are brought are received, without (1) Islr. Forsyth makes an ingenious and happy application of a pas- sage in Juvenal to the Hospital at Florence, in which legitimate and ille- gitimale children are received. As they are admitted at niglit, be proposes that tlic following words should be written over the grate : " Stat Fortuna improba noctu Arridens nudis infantibus : hos fovet omnes, Involvitque sinu."— — Remarks on ICali/, p. 443. PETERSBURG. 435 any limit. The average number admitted in ^^^' the day is about ten. We were there at noon- > ' time, and saw four who had just been received : one of them appeared to be dying. We could not learn the average number of infants in the house; but thought, from our conductor's in- formation, that it was seven or eight hundred. We were surprised at the great mortality that takes place : one hundred deaths in a month form the common average of the whole house ; and in the preceding winter, there occurred, not unfrequently, eighteen in a day. The mortality chiefly occurs, it may be supposed, among very young children ; some of whom are brought when they are actually dying : but there is a considerable number of deaths among those who are older. Having quitted these apartments, we went over those allotted to the girls. The dormitories and work-rooms were kept in the same neat manner. There are five classes : the two highest make lace, and embroider very well : we saw a saddle-cloth of yellow velvet most richly embroidered in silver, which was to be presented to the Emperor on his birth-day. The Empress interested herself particularly in the institution ; and, when she was in the city, seldom passed a week without coming twice or F F 2 436 PETERSBURG. XI. CHAP, thrice, and looking into all the details of the management of it. We were told that the expenses of the establishment amounted to 100,000 roubles a month. The regular revenues belonging to it are not in any degree equal to that sum ; but the Government takes upon itself the direction of the whole, and conse- quently bears the additional expenses. The common hours of working are from six to twelve, and from two to four. There was a large garden, for the girls to walk in ; and a separate piece of ground for the boys, where they went after dinner to play, as it was a fete: the girls amused themselves with sewing and embroidery. Notwithstanding the advantages possessed by the place, and the cleanliness that appeared to prevail in general, the children had not a healthy appearance ; and we were quite surprised at the very small number of good- looking boys and girls which we saw. The greater part were absolutely ugly ; and all had sore eyes. This complaint arises, probably, from the strong light and white walls, added to the offensive heat of the rooms and the reflexion from the snow : it originally begins in the smoky cottages where the children are sent to be nursed. One of the governesses complained to us of the frequency of holidays, as a great PETERSBURG. 437 interruption to the employments of the children. The girls leave the house at the age of eighteen, and the boys at that of twenty or twenty-one. Sometimes those children who were sent into the country did not return : this depended on the room there was in the house, and on the will of the Empress. There is a large hall, with a railing, where the parents come and see their children ; to whom they affix a mark when they deliver them ; giving, at the same time, a note, stating whether the child has been bap- tized or not, and what is, or what should be, the name. Parents, in proving themselves able to support their children, and, we believe, on paying the past expenses, may demand them, and take them away, if they have not been born in the house.- They may always find the children, by asking for the particular number received on placing them in the institution. The greatest praise has been bestowed by some Writers on the institution of the Foundling Hospitals of Petersburg and Moscow. " The genius of Catharine made even the vices of a portion of her subjects contribute to the wisdom of her views. Those unfortunate children, whom their fathers disowned — whom their mothers did not dare to acknowledge — were abandoned to public compassion, and often to 438 PETERSBURG. ^xt^ death. Equally rejected by nature and by the **— \ — ' law, they have been adopted by the Sovereign. No establishment of the kind can be compared with the Hospital at Moscuiu. All who present themselves there, or are brought from the dif- ferent depots' o^ i\iQ empire, are received. Their first years are watched with the utmost atten- tion ; and this, if possible, is increased in the superintendence of their education. They are instructed, according to their inclinations or natural dispositions, in different trades and dif- ferent arts. When the term of their education has expired, they receive the greatest of all blessings — liberty. Restored to their country, they are dependent only on the laws ; and in consecrating to their country the talents which she has bestowed upon them, they give back even more tlian they have received." Such is the eulogy pronounced on these institutions by one of the historians ' of the Russian empire : nor can it be denied that many useful and indus- trious citizens have been formed in them. It may however be questioned, whether they really increase the population of the empire to the extent which some have supposed. No doubt can be entertained as to the encourage- (1) Ilistoire dc Russie, par Lcvesque, tome VI. p. 55. PETERSBURG. 439 ment of immorality and licentiousness which ^^^^• they afford ; since to have an illegitimate child, ' — . — ' is considered as the least fault which a female- servant can commits The conduct of the Emperor was, at this time. Anecdotes • ^ of the Em- the chief subject of conversation at all the tables peror paui. to which we were invited during our stay at Petersburg; both in the houses of strangers, and of the Russians themselves. We had not, in- deed, been long in the city, before we heard, from undoubted authority, numerous examples, many of which were confirmed by our own ob- servation, of the folly and inconsistency, cruelty and obstinacy, caprice and idiotism, not to say insanity, of Paul. Before his accession to the throne, he had frequently displayed great ec- centricity and absurdity in his conduct. A mania for every thing military particularly possessed him : he would harass the soldiers of his regiment with the most vexatious dis- cipline, the most minute and frivolous attention to every part of their dress, even to the shoul- dering of a musket, and to the buttoning of a coat. He once shut his wife up in a fortified place ; and ordered a mock-battle to be fought, (2) A female servant belonging to a mistress of rather strict character sent six children to the Foundling Hospital, without losing her place. Her accouchement, we were informed, seldom obliged her to absent !icr- self more than three days. 440 PETERSBURG. CHAP, pretending to take on himself the defence of it ^— V — ^ against the attack of the supposed enemy. Nothing offended him more than the refusal of Catharine to allow him to command the Russian army, in the campaign against the Porte in 1787- In visiting different parts of the Continent in 1781, in company with the Grand-duchess, he was everywhere received with the greatest attention and honour; but nothing could remove the gravity, silence, and reserve of his manner. He frequently shewed great distrust and suspi- cion of those around him : this was particularly observable during an illness with which he was attacked in Italy. His conduct on that occasion has been explained, by the circumstance of his being impressed with a notion that Catharine wished to make an attempt upon his life. On becoming Emperor, he was at liberty to in- dulge, to any excess, and in any manner he pleased, his military folly'. Every morning was devoted to reviews, to the parade, and to the practice of various manoeuvres. As Frederick ( 1 ) He ordered some models of tails to be made, which he intended should be worn by the officers and soldiers ; and despatched them to dif. ferent corps of the army. Souwamf, on receiving a packet of these tails shook his head, and exclaimed, " These tails are not bayonets; and no fire will come from this powder." A translation cannot give the spirit of the original, which has a rhythm, and metrical cadence, often used by HuuwdTof \\\ his conversation. " Kafoi ne kalot, bouklai ne palit, poudrci ne streliat." — M. Dcpping quotes this, from an historical memoir relatin;^ to Suawaraf. PETERSBURG. 441 xu the Great was the principal object of his admira- ^^-^^• tion, he ordered the national dress of the Russians "> to be exchanged for the Prussian uniform. He soon began to shew disrespect and aversion to the memory of his mother. The plans she had formed were altered ; the ministers, whom she had selected for their talents, were disgraced ; the buildings she had commenced were com- pleted in any manner but that which accorded with her ideas. The Church of St. Isaac had been raised to a considerable height : marble, jasper, porphyry, and granite, were the ma- terials employed in the construction of it : Paul finished it with brick. The Taurida Palace was converted by him into barracks. Peter the Third, his father, had ben buried in the Church of St. Alexander Nevshy : Paul ordered the body to be removed, and deposited in that of the Fortress, where all his ancestors are entombed. The assassins of Peter were dead, with the ex- ception of two — Orlof and Boriatinsky : they were commanded to be present at the ceremony, to attend the body as chief-mourners, and to re- main near it for the space of three weeks. This act of Paul was viewed in different lights : by some he was considered as influenced by mo- tives of respect and affection to the memory of his father ; by others, the whole transaction was 442 PETERSBURG. considered as a censure and reproach of the conduct of his mother. At the time of our residence in Petersburg, the chief favourite of Paul was Koutizof\ originally a Greek slave, and latterly his valet de chamhre. This man had a mistress, Madame Chevalier, the wife of a hair-dresser, and principal actress at the French Theatre. Her uncommon beauty had (1) Since the period when Dr. Clarke's Manuscript Journals were written, an edition of Levesque^s History of Russia has been published, with Notes by MM. Malte-Brun and Depping. The latter had added an account of the reign of Paul ; and has related in it many anecdotes, marking in a striking manner the absurdity and folly of his conduct, pre- cisely of a similar nature to those which Dr. Clarke has already noted in his Journal. This coincidence confirms the accuracy of the statements both of the Eiit-lisli Traveller and the French Historian. M. Depping says, that Koutizof was originally a Turk : but the pas- sage is suffered to stand in the text, as it occurs in Dr. Clarke's manu- script. M. Depping gives an anecdote very characteristic of Souwarof, which illustrates at the same time the history of the rise o( Koutizof. " From valet de chambre, he became the confidant and minister of Paul ; and although he was detested by the nobles, they all sought his favour. Souiuarof alone, more accustomed to the language of camps than to that of Courts, refused to bend the knee before the second master of the empire ; and humbled him, on one occasion, in the most marked manner. On his return from exile, Paul sent his favourite to him. ' Count Xout/zof was announced. ^Koutizof/' cried the General: 'I do not know any Ritssia^i family of that name.' The Count answered, that he was from Turke;/, and that the favour of the Emperor liad raised him to his present dignity. — ' You have then doubtless distinguished yourself in arms ?' ' I have never served.' — * Or in the ministry ?* ' I have never been in any civil office. I have always been about the person of the Emperor.' — ' In what capacity?' — Koulizif v/hheA to turn the conversation; hut Souwnr of mercilessly pursued him with questions; until he confessed he had been valet de chambre. Suuwarof, on this, turning to his scrv.nnf, said: • You see, Ivan, what it is to conduct yourself well. Tliis gentleman was, once, what you are : behold him Count now, with the blue ribband !' " PETERSBURG. 443 subdued Koutizof; and, as he governed Paul, Madame Chevaliers influence was unbounded. Whoever became the object of her hatred^or that of the favourite, was immediately sent into exile. Within a few days after our arrival, not less than one hundred and fifty persons were banished, and not one under the smallest pretence of jus- tice. We found, in consequence of the tyranny and caprice of the Emperor, that many noblemen were leaving the city, and retiring to Moscow. As Paul had a particular aversion to all stran- gers, every one who shewed them any kindness, or treated them with hospitality, became imme- diately offensive to him. The Emperor rose every morning at five : Koutizof, whose apartments were under his, saw him first : the report of the head-officer of the Police was received shortly afterwards. Paufs chief vanity was, to shew his insensibility to cold : for this purpose, he drove about in an open sledge, or rode on horseback without a pelisse, parading before his soldiers, and through the streets, with his hat off, for twenty minutes together. When he passed, every person must stop, and stand bare-headed ; every one de- scended from his carriage, however thinly he might be clothed, and whatever might be the state of the weather. Ladies, old women, infirm 444 PETERSBURG. and sickly persons, were obliged to suffer these indignities. The same marks of respect were shewn to every part of the Royal Family, even to the Infants ; but when the Grand-duke Alexander passed, he always hurried by, and waved his hand, to prevent this painful homage. His amiable character and condescension ren- dered him the idol of the people ; and he was as much loved, as Paul was detested. We passed an evening at the hospitable and elegant mansion of Baron Strogonqf; who in- formed us, that his coachman, one morning, when the Emperor was riding through the streets, did not stop the horses so quickly as he ought to have done : on this, the attendant officer went up, demanded who was in the carriage, and took down the name of the servants. Fortunately, the Baron was going to his uncle, a favourite of the Emperor, and no more notice was taken of the matter ; but he told us he passed a day of painful anxiety. The slightest punishment in- flicted for neglecting to take oif immediately your hat, great coat, cloak, gloves, or pelisse, as the Emperor passed by, or for not descending instantly from your carriage, in the snow, mud, or rain, was, that the servants were bound and sent to the army, the horses to the artillery, the carriage confiscated, and the master ordered XI, PETERSBURG. 44,") into confinement. The attention of the police chap was directed to things of the most insignificant kind : if a man had his hair short on the top of his head, if it fell over his forehead, if he had any below his temples or on his cheeks, a soldier was sent to shave him, or cut his hair, according to the whim or taste of the police-officer. As every thing was regulated by the caprice and insolence of this class of persons, it was impos- sible in any way to escape their notice and inter- ference. Friends met with suspicious and fearful looks, asking for news, or mentioning the misfor- tunes which had happened to their relatives, who had been exiled ' or ruined by the Emperor and his minion. While we were at Baron Strogojiof's, a Princess came to take leave of her friends : — she was ordered to leave Petersburg by four o'clock in the morning. An Englishman, accustomed from his infancy to the blessings of a free constitution, is in the (1) La colere de Paul frappait indistinctement toutes les classes dela societe — les courtisans, les gens de lettres, les militaires, les marchands^ les femmes, tous encouraient la peine de I'exil, ou du knout, pour des fautes legeres Les exils et les arrestations continuaient tou- jours : on voyait sur les routes de nombreux kibitkas, qui transportaient les prisonniers en Siberie. Ces transports se faisaient avcc la plus grande precipitation ; on ne laissait souvent a I'exile qu'une beure pour arranger ses affaires; et puis on I'envoyait sous le climat rigoureux de la Siberie, sanslui accorder les moyens de se premunir contre la regueur du froid." Depping. — Hhtoire de Russie, par Levexque. Tome VL ;>. 114, 446 PETERSBURG. CHAP, practice of declaring his sentiments openly and «» ,— / loudly. In Petersburg, if he opened his mouth, though for the sake of asking a question of the most indifferent kind, his Russian friend trembled while he was addressed. — " What architect de- signed that palace ?" " Speak lower, for God's sake!" — " What ! is it prohibited to ask ques- tions relating to architecture ?" " Every thing is prohibited." — " Is it prohibited to speak, to breathe, to exist ?" *' It is dangerous to speak at all : whatever you say, may be misinterpreted ; and, surrounded as you are, the less conscious- ness you afford even of your respiration or exist- ence, the better."- — This is a real statement of a conversation which took place. It was an offence to be loud in talking, laughing, or singing. Peace and comfort, innocent mirth, and domestic happiness, were constantly interrupted ; and the effect of a baneful and malignant tyranny was everywhere experienced, — adempto per inquisi- tiones, et loquendi audiendique commercio. The Emperor ordered a person to be flogged by the soldiers, because he wore his cravat a little too near his chin, and had not placed the cock of his hat straight over his forehead. The punishment was inflicted with severity. On one occasion he had the audacity to cane an officer : the unfortunate victim of his cowardice retired PETERSBURG. 447 to his house, and shot himself, leaving a note for the Emperor, containing these words : " He who has the courage to lose his own life for an insult, might take away the life of him who caused it. Let this be a warning to you." His conduct towards strangers was as extraordinary as that which he displayed towards his own subjects. The German ambassador, Count Cohentzel, applied for a passport to send a courier to his Court. The Emperor gave for answer, that he could have nothing to say to his Court, and that he should have none. Paul had been induced to join the Coalition against France : he repented of the measure, and shewed his aversion to it, by ill-treating the Representatives of the Courts of England and Austria, and by ordering many French emigrants to quit his dominions. He had, however, a great horror of Revolutionary principles. Two servants, who had been dis- charged by two English gentlemen, laid an infor- mation against their masters, of being Jacobins : these gentlemen were obliged, in consequence, to leave Russia; and would have experienced harsher treatment, if Lord JVJiitiuorth had not discovered the plot, and the falsehood of the charge, and made himself responsible for their conduct. It is well known, that, aniong other instances CHAP. IX. 448 PETERSBURG. CHAP, of folly, he ordered, by a special Ukase, many of A. la V ■».. / the buildings in the empire to be painted in a particular manner, according to his directions. A lady, whom he admired, appeared one even- ing at a ball with a pair of gloves of a red colom' : the next morning, his palace was painted red. The absurdities, of which he was guilty every day, almost exceed belief. Some excel- lent paintings in the palace had been removed, by his orders, for the purpose of being var- nished ; and a few common sea-pieces, executed in the very worst manner, were hung, in the mean time, in room of them, to cover the wall : he noticed one, as he passed through the apart- ments, declared it to be the finest thing he had ever seen in his life, and angrily asked why such excellent paintings were placed so high, and out of sight. Presently, twenty soldiers en- tered with ladders, to take down the picture, that he might have it near him while he was at dinner, though it hung in the adjoining room. In the course of his morning-ride, he observed, at a little distance, a person in a sledge, who did not take off his pelisse. When he reached the palace, he said to an officer, " In such a street I saw a man who did not take off his pelisse ; it was green, with dark fur : go, find out who he is." The officer was in utter despair of PETERSBURG. 449 ever being able to execute such a mad com- mission ; but, from the situation of the street, he suspected that the person might, perhaps, be an Englishman. Hastening, therefore, to the English Club, where the merchants were at dinner, he examined all the pelisses ; and having found one which corresponded with the de- scription given by the Emperor, he inquired to whom it belonged : the waiter mentioned the name of the owner, and the police-officer desired that he might be called out of the room. — " Is this pelisse yours ?" " Yes." — The'officer de- parted, leaving the Englishman in doubt as to what steps he should take. His friends advised him to go home ; but when he left the room, the pelisse was not to be found : it had been taken to the Emperor, who, when he saw it, embraced the officer in a transport of joy, at the same time declaring his surprise that he re- turned with it so soon. — The pelisse was sent back to the ownc , in about an hour's time. The truth of the following fact can be at- tested by the whole city of Petersburg. — A car- riage, as the Emperor was passing through the streets, was observed not to stop quite so soon as was thought proper ; nor did any one VOL. XI. G G XI 450 PETERSBURG. CHAP, descend when it stopped. The officers rode up, took the name of the owner, and again followed Paul. About noon, the lady, to whom it be- longed, was informed that one of the police- officers desired to see her. The visits of these persons occasioned as much horror and alarm at Petersburg, as those of the agents of Robes- pierre produced at Paris. The lady, much dis- tressed, was no sooner informed of the cause of his coming, than she burst into tears, clasping her hands together, and protesting that she had not been out of the house for three days. She ordered inquiry to be made, in order to know who had been in the carriage : and was in- formed, that the person was a poor miserable cripple, deformed, an ideot from his birth, de- prived of the use of his limbs, maintained in the family from charity, and allowed, by his hu- mane protectress, the use of the carriage, for air, when the weather was fine. Will it be believed, that this wretched object was dragged before the Governor; who, when he saw him> shuddered with horror! "I have orders," he said, " to feed you upon bread and water: but I will add a little butter to the one, and a little tea to the other ; and, in the mean time, go to the Emperor," Paul, whether from a feeling of compassion not very common to him, or from PETERSBURG. 451 not wishing to trouble himself any farther in the chap. business, ordered the ideot to be taken back to the house of the lady. But the carriage and servants were gone ; — the former was seized by the Government ; the latter were sent to the army. The melancholy effects of his short reign were perceptible in every thing. Science, art, and literature, withered under the blighting influence of his tyranny. Books of almost every descrip- tion were prohibited. French works of the most costly and expensive kind, if they shewed, by their title-page, that they had been printed during the time of the Republic, were not allowed to be sold. We took up, in a book- seller's shop, a beautiful copy of Buffon^ Na- tural History, and the marks of the police were visible in the title-page of every volume. Fo- reign Journals were reprinted with the altera- tions which the Government thought proper to introduce. Censors were appointed to superintend every publication, to open and read letters, to suppress and destroy whatever they did not approve or could not compre- hend. In the scrutiny which took place, amidst this darkness of intellect and ignorance, we have no reason to wonder at the ludicrous and G G 2 452 PETERSBURG. CHAP. XI. Remarks on the cha- racter of the Em- press Ca- tharine. contemptible blunders that were daily com- mitted'. The character and conduct of Paul are suffi- ciently illustrated by the statements we have given : and more, if it were necessary, might be added, to mark his imbecility and ideotcy. The strong feeling of hatred which he bore to the memory of Catharine led him to counteract and defeat, in every possible manner, the plans which she had formed for the improvement of the empire. The private and public life of this extraordinary woman formed the subject of con- versation one evening, when we were present, at the house of Baroness Strogonof, who had been one of her Ladies of the Bedchamber : she related to us many anecdotes respecting her ; speaking the whole time as one of her enthu- siastic admirers, though discriminating parts of her conduct with penetration and shrewdness of remark. Certainly many traits, which were mentioned, shewed a great strength of intellect, and often a feeling heart. She had a power and command over herself, which enabled her to retire when in anger, and never to give a deci- (l) M. Depping gives the following instance. — The censors had no list of prohibited books : they, therefore, adopted the Index in use at Vienna. In this, tlierc was a prohibition of books relating to the Greek Church: the same were also rejected by the linsnian censors ! PETERSBURG. 45 J sion until her mind was calm and tranquil : she had the talent of rendering every one at ease, when in her presence ; and her clemency was shewn on various occasions. When the name of a person who was convicted of high-treason, of even plotting against her, was given in for condemnation, she would frequently desire in- quiry to be made, if he had not some cause of vexation ; if his mind had not been irritated by some fancied injury or neglect : — at last, the astonished culprit was presented with a sum of money, and ordered to retire to a distant pro- vince. Impressed, at first, with a favourable feeling occasioned by the enumeration of many good qualities which were attributed to her, we were disposed to join the list of her panegyrists : but it is impossible, on reflection, to admit any apology for the crimes which tarnish all her glories, if they do not entirely obscure them. It will readily be allowed, that her reign has been marked by great events, and that her mea- sures were often directed by sound wisdom and policy. Her apparent virtues also relieve the attention from the horrors and dark shades of infamy, with which they are surrounded; but the mind soon turns from the contemplation of them, with suspicion and distrust : they seem to be more the result of an artful policy, than of Peter the Third. 454 PETERSBURG. CHAP, the offspring of beneficence : — so difficult is it ^ ■ > ■ ' to conceive, that a woman engaged during one part of her life in murder, and the other in lust and ambition, could be capable of any thing lovely or of good report — any thing noble or amiable — any thing which could adorn or dignify the human mind ! anTraurder Whencvcr the circumstauccs attending the death of Peter the Third are introduced, they are always accompanied with the assertions, that Catharine, by the murder of her husband, averted a similar fate, which would have speedily over- taken her. This plausible tale, easily related, as easily prevailed. The multitude, who sel- dom trouble themselves to reflect, when they find others ready to think for them, are hardly yet awakened from their delusion. It is won- derful that a representation so totally ground- less should have met with such implicit belief ! What reason have we for supposing that Peter intended the murder or the imprisonment of his wife? He built, it is said, a set of apartments in the Fortress of Schlussenburg; they were erected with unusual expedition; he himself superintended the work — insinuations, which really prove nothing. As persons have not been wanting to defend the conduct of Catharine throughout the whole course of the events which PETERSBURG. 455 occurred in the Revolution of 1762, it is proper ^^^^• to advert to what has been urged by those who < — , — ' have advocated the cause of Peter. They state, that he was acquainted with the plans she had formed, in conjunction with her favourite Orlof, for taking possession of the reins of govern- ment — that when the consequences of her licentious conduct and intimacy with that officer were too evident, Pe^er proposed to punish her in some public manner — that, to avoid this disgrace, Catharine completed and hastened the conspi- racy which ended in his dethronement and murder. That the indolence, and want of reso- lution, and pusillanimity of Peter contributed to his own ruin, cannot be doubted : there was a period, during the revolt, when the soldiers ex- pressed their regret at having been so easily per- suaded, by Or/o/' and Razoumofsky and others, to abjure their allegiance to him, and would have marched, under his command, against the rebels. The circumstances connected with the seizure and imprisonment of Peter at Robscha have been variously related. Ismaelof, whom he sent to express his readiness to enter into negotiation with the Empress, is supposed to have betrayed him to Orlof. He was then conveyed to Robscha. But even after his confinement, the soldiers did not cease to express their disapprobation of 456 PETERSBURG. what had taken place ; and a strong feeling of commiseration for their deposed monarch was excited among various classes of the people. The conspirators found that their only security was in his death. The rest of the history of Peter the Third is well known. An unsuccessful attempt was made to administer poison to him: as this failed, he was, after a violent resistance, strangled, by Alexis Orlof, Boriatinshy who was the officer on guard, and an obscure individual of the name of Te/je/Ao/'. His body was pub- lickly exposed, habited in the Holstein uniform ; the collar of the dress being so arranged (1) The account in the text is confirmed by a remarkable extract from Mr. Gibbon's Common- Place Book, given in Lord Sheffield's late edition of the Miscellaneous Works of that writer ; which may be pro- perly inserted in this place. " Peter III. was poisoned in a glass of brandy. On his refusing a " second glass, he was forcibly thrown down, and strangled with a hand- " kerchief, by Orlof, Tipelliof, Potemkin, and the youngest of the Princes •' Boriatinski. When the body was exposed, the marks of violence on the " neck, &c. were evident, Orlof instantly returned to Petersburg, and " appeared at the Empress's dinner, in the disorder of a murderer. She " caught his eye, rose from the table, called him into her closet ; sent for " Count Panin, to whom she imparted the news; and returned to dinner *• with her usual ease and cheerfulness. " These particulars (Mr. Gibbon says) are taken from a History of the " Revolution in 1762, composed by M. liul/iiere, a French Officer, who " was an attentive spectator, and who afterwards conversed with the prin- *' cipal actors. Prudence prevents him from publishing : but he reads his '* Narrative to large companies ; and I have already heard it twice." GiBBON'i Miscellaneous Works, Vol. V.p. 528. 1814. PETERSBURG. 457 as to conceal the mode of his death, which, chap. however, was very visible in the features <., .y~ -» of the face. The following night he was buried in the church of the Monastery oi '^i. Alexander Nevshy . \For a Continuation of the Author's Narrative^ of his departure from Petersburg to Moscow, of his inter- esting desaiption of the latter city, and his journey to the Southern Provinces of the Russian Empire, &c. &c. the Reader is referred to the First Volume of these Travels.] APPENDIX. No. I . AMCENITATES ACADEMIiE ABOENSIS. I COLLECTED, by favour of Professor Porthan, Seventy of the Academic Disputations of Abo. And, as a Catalogue of their subjects, with their respective dates, will afford a tolera- ble idea of the line of study pursued in that University, and of the time in which any par- ticular study was the most favoured, sixty-one of them are here added. It will appear, that under the Presidency of PoiiTHAN the most interesting topics were dis- cussed. They form a complete History of Science in Abo, for the last twenty years of the eighteenth century. 1782. Dissertatio Botanica, de Calla. — Praeside, C.N. Hellenio. — J. F. Sacklen, Satacundensis. 1785. Dissertatio Mathematica, de Quadratura Para- bolae. — Praes. J. H. Lindquist. — J. J. Lager- STROM, Satacundensis. 1785. Dissertatio Astronomica, Metliodum sistens inve- niendi Tempus Verum, ex observatis sequalibus diversarum Stellarum Altitudinibus. — Praes. J.H. Lindquist. — A. J. Tammelander> Tavastensis. 460 APPENDIX, N" I. 17S6. Specimen Academicum, de invenienda Sectione Conica circa focum datum per data tria puncta transeunte. — Praes. J. H. Lindquist. — J. We- GELius, Ostro-Botniensis. 1786. Dissertatio Gradualis, Observationes quasdam circa Reductionem Angulorum ad Horizontem continens. — Praes. J.H.Lin dquist. — J.Rikstrom. 1786. Dissertatio Astronomica, de Parallaxi Annua Pla- netarum Primariorum ac Cometarum. — Prses. J. H. Lindquist. — S. Castren, Ostro-Botniensis. 1786. Diss. Botanica, de Evonymo. — Praes. C.N. Hel- lenic. — C. AscHOLiN, Satacundensis. 1786. Diss. Botanica, de Hippuride.^Praes. C. N. Hel- lenic. — C. R. Brander, Satacundensis. 1786. Specimen Calendarii Florae et Faunae Aboensis. — Praes. C. N. Hellenic. — J. G. Justander. 1 786. Dissertatio, de Origine Literarum Latinarum. — Prses. H. G. Porthan. — G. J. Cajander, Ny- landus. 1786. Dissertatio Academica, deBircarlis. — Praes. H.G. Porthan. — F. M. Frantzen, Ostro-Botniensis. 1787. Prospectus Methodi Rem Pecuariam scientifice pertractandi. — Prees. G. Bonsdorff. — A Box- STROM, Nylandus. 1 788. Animadversiones in novam Nomenclaturae Che- micae Methodum. — Publico Examini subjicit J. Gadolin. Respondente, N. Avellan, Ta- vastensis. 1788. Diss. Academica, deAsparago.— Praes. C. N. Hel- lenius. — U. Pryss. 1788. Diss. Acad, de Observationibus Barometricis ope Thermometri corrigendis. — Praes. J. H. Lind- quist.— J. Wegelius, Ostro-Botniensis, APPENDIX, NO I. 461 1789. Meletema Academicum, de Favorino, Philosopho Academico.— -Praes. H. G. Portiian. — Z. Fors- MAN, Oitro-Botnieiis'is. 1789. Diss.Astronomica, deinvenienda apparente Lunae Diametro ex data ejus Parallaxi. — Praes. J. H. LiNDQUisT. — A. Sander, Borea-Ferino. 1789. Diss. Academica, de Interpolatione pro inveniendo loco Lunge ex Ephemeridibus. — Prass. J.H.Lind- QUIST. J. /EjMELJEVS. 1789. Diss. Academica, sistens Theoriam Linearum Parallelarum. — Praes. J. H. Lindquist. — E. Ro- sen back, Satacundensis. 1789. Diss. Botanica, de Tropaeolo. — Pra^s. C. N. Hel- lenic. — A. F. Laurell, PViburgensis. 1789. Diss. Acad, de Fama Magise Fennis attributa. — Praes. H. G. Porthan. — F. J. Rosenbom, Oslro- Bolniensis. 1789. Diss. Acad, de Hippophae. — Praes. C.N. Hel- LENio. — P. Stenberg, JVestro-Botniensis, 1791. Animadversiones de Libris raris. — Praes. H. G. Porthan. — P. J. Alop;eus, Wiburgensis. 1791. De vario Usu Litteraturae Orientalis. — Prsss. P. Malmstrom. — G. Krogius, IViburgensis. 1792. Diss. Acad, sistens Specimina quaedam instinctus, quo Animalia suae prospiciunt Soboli. — Praes. C. N. Hellenio. — F. JuvELius, Ostro-Botniensis, 1792. Diss. Botanica, de Cichorio. — Praes. C. N. Hel- lenic. — H. Nelly, Svio-Gothus. 1792. Diss. Academica, de Imperio Hermanrici Ostro- Gotliorum Regis. — Prses. H. G. Porthan. — C. Rein, Ostro-Botniensis. 1792. Cogitationes de Poemate Prosaico. — Pra3s. H.G. Porthan. — A. Kellandek. Satacundensis. 462 APPENDIX, N° J. 1792. Diss. Astronomica, de computando Effect u Aber- rationis Luminis in Eclipsibus. — ^Praes. J. H. LiNDQUiST. — M. J. ToLPO, Borea-Fcjino. 1792. Diss. Astronom. de Methodo inveniendi Latitu- dinem Loci ex observatis duabus Solis vel Stellae cujusdam Altitudinibus. — Prees. J. H. Lindquist. — A. J. Mether, Tavastensls. 1792. Diss. Gradualis, de Loxodromiis in Superficie Ellipsoidica. — Prees. J. H. Lindquist. — N. M. ToLPOj Borea-Fenno. 1793. Diss. Acad, de invenienda Longitudine Loci ex observata Distantia Lunae a Stella quadam. — Praes. J. H. Lindquist — M. Avellan. 1794. Diss. Medica, sistens Casum Haemorrho'idum sup- pressarum. — Praes. G. E. Haartman. — S. Bjork- LUND. 1794. Diss. Acad. Cogitationes sistens de Libertate Graecis callide a Romanis oblata. — Prses. H. G. Porthan. — M. Enegren, Ostro-Botn'iensis. 1794. Diss. Acad. Animadversiones sistens de Studio novitatis in Philosophia. — Praes. H. G. Porthan. — S. BoHM, Ostro-Botniensis. 1794. Diss. Acad, de Imperio Hermanrici Ostro-Gotho- riun Regis. — Prtes. H. G. Porthan. — E. Hil- deen, Borea-Fenno. 1795. Diss. Acad, sistens Cogitationes quasdam de Lin- guarum Usu Historico. — Praes. H. G. Porthan. — J. H. Avellan, Tavastensls. 1795. Diss. Acad, de Libertate Philosophandi. — Praes. H. G. Porthan. — P. Wallenius, IVibiirgensis. 1795, Diss. Acad, sistens Cogitationes quasdam de Pan- dora Hesiodea. — Praes. H. G. Porthan. — J. H. Fattenkorg, Nylandus. APPENDIX, N" I. 463 1795. Diss. Acad, de Theoria Solutionis Chemicae. — Praes. J. Gadolin. — M. Harfvelin, Aboensis. 1795. De Natnra Salium Simplicium. — Prses. J. Ga- dolin. — J. G. Haartman. 1795. De computando Effectu Convexitatis Superficiei in Arte Libellandi, posita Figura Telluris EUip- soidica. — Praes. J.H.Lindquist. — C.G. Utter, Satacundensis. 1796. De Invenienda Parallaxi Altitudinis, ex datis Pa- rallaxi Sideris Horizontali, et vera ejus a Zenith Distantia. — Praes. J. H. Lindquist. — T. T. Kri- ANDER, Satacundensis. 1797. De corrigendis Erroribus Instrument! Culmina- torii. — Praes. J. H. Lindquist. — G. Laurell. 1797. De Declinatione Nominum in primis Fennicorum. — E. HiLDEEN et G. Laurell. 1797 Animadversiones nonnullae circa Queestionem, " Quid Moses de Diis Gentium senserit?" — Prffis. G. Gadolin. — J. Avellan, Tavastensis. 1797. Dissertatio Inauguralis Medica, sistens Toxico- logias primas Lineas. — Prses. G. E. Haartman, B. HoLMUDD, Uleaburg. 1797. De Tussilagine Commentarii Botanici. — J. G. Haartman, et A. J. Orrstrom, Aboensis, 1797. De Speciebus Solutionis Chemicae. — Prass. J. Gadolin. — M. Sylvex, Satacundensis, 1798. Examen Methodi iEquationes Algebraicas resol- vendi ; a C. L. Bendavid, nuper propositjB. — Praes. J. H. Lindquist. — J. F. Ahlstedt, Sata- cundensis. 1798. De Natura Carbonis VegetabiHs. — Praes. J. Ga- dolin, — T. T. Kriander, Satacnnda-Fenno. 464 APPENDIX, N° I. 1 798. De Silica ex Solutione Alkalina per Calcem prae- cipitata. — Praes. J.Gadolin. — J. Holstius, Ostro- Botniensis. 1798. De Variationibus Avium quoad ipsarum Colorem. — Praes. C. N. Hellenic. — A. Cajan, Ostro- Botniensis. 1798. De Philosophia Populari complexa. — Praes. H. G. PoRTHAN. — G. Palander, Tavustensis. 1798. De Pancratio Gymnici apud Veteres Graecos Ludi Genere. — Praes. G. Gadolin. — G. Do- MANDER, Tavastensis. 1798. De Dignitate Jarlorum in Suecia. — Praes. H. G. PoRTHAN. — E. J. Frostenes, Ostro-Botiiiensis. 1798. Specimen Descriptionis Organicae Linearum Cur- varum. — Auctor, G. G. Hallstrom; et Re- spondens, C, H. Stranberg, Nylandus. 1798. Specimina qusedam Geometriae Curvilineae. — Praes. A. J. Mether, et N. J. BERGHiELL, Tavastensis. 1799. De Methodo Superficies Solidorum duplici Inte- gratione investigandi. — Auctor, G. Palander; et Respondens, C. Astrom, Tavastensis. 1799. De Fide Revelationi Divinae habenda. — Praes. J. Tenostrom. — E.J. Frosterus, Ostro-Botn'iensis. 1799. De inveniendis Lineis Curvis ex datis Radii Cur- vaturae Proprietatibus, Problemata. — Auctore, G.G. Hallstrom; et Respondente, C.H.Holl- BERG, Borea-Fenno. Tn the year 1766, Professor Porthan, then Student in the University, produced his learned Dissertation De Poesi Fennica; one of the most erudite and interesting Essays that have appear- o ed among the Academic Dissertations of Abo. APPENDIX, N° II. 465 No. II. INDEX PR^LECTIONUM, QUAS, BONO CUM DEO, IN REGIA ACADEMIA ABOENSI, OMNIUM FACULTATUM PROFESSORES, CETERIQUE DOCENTES, A DIE I. OCTOBRIS AN. MDCCXCIX. AD IDEM TEMPUS ANNI SEQUENTIS, PUB LICE ET PllIVATIM HABEBUNT. IMPERANTE AUGtJSTISSIMO ET POTENTISSIMO, GUSTAVO ADOLPHO, SVECORUM, GOTHORUM, VANDALORUMQUE REGE &C. &C. &:C. DOMINO NOSTRO CLEMENTISSIMO. REGI7E ACADEMIiE ABOENSIS CANCELLARIO, ILLUSTRISSIMO ATQUE EXCELLEN TISSIMO COMITE, DOMINO CAROLO ADAMO WACHTMEISTER, EX IMPERII SVIOGOTHICI I'ROCERIBUS UNO, SUPREMO AD AULAM REGINjE VIDU^ MARESCHALLO, EDUCATIONIS REgIjE ANTEHAC GUBERNATORE VICARIO, ORDINUM REGIORUM EQUITE AC COMMENDATORE. PRO CANCELLARIO, REVERENDISSIMO DOMINO, JACOBO GADOLIN, S S. THEOL. DOCTORE, DIOCESEOS ABOENSIS EPISCOPO, ORDINIS REGH DE STELLA POLAUI COMMENDATORE. VOL. XI. H H 4C6 APPENDIX, N" II. PROFESSORES. hi Facilitate Theological Christianus Cavander, S.S. Theol, Prof. Prim, et Archi-PrcBp. iniis Capitibus, quasex Evangelio Liicae adhuc supersunt, publice interpretandis, primum b.c. D. versabitur, in Auditorio Majori h. a. m. IX, deinde Johannis Evang. suscepturus. Privatim futuris Auditoribus, in primis S. Ministerii Candidatis, fidelia saltern consilia monitaque ad praxin muneris et vitae spectantia suppeditare studebit. Laurentius O. Lefren, S.S. Theol. Professor Reg. et Ordin. hoc anno Academico Esaiee Prophetiam pub- lice explicare constituit, idque h. III. post meridiem ; privatas Scholas desideriis expetentium adcom- modaturus. Jacobus Tengstrom, S. S. Theol. Prof. Reg. et Ord. nee noil R. Acad. h. a. Rector. Doctrinam morura e Christianae Theologiae fontibus haustam, praeeunte Cel. J. C. Doderlein, publice legendo tradere et absol- vere conabitur; Dogmaticam non minus quam Homileticam Religionis proponendas rationem pri- vatis lectionibus alternis persecuturus. hi Facultate Juridica: Matthias Calonius, Juris Prof Reg. et Ord. Eques Ord. Reg. de Stella Polar?, Supremi Reg. Trihunalis Revisoriip. t. Memhrum, Holmiae munere clementissime sibi delato detentus adhuc versatur. Partes vero ejus, donee ad nos redierit, R. Acad. Secretarius interim administrabit. APPENDIX, N° II. 467 In Facultate 3Iedica : ORDINARIi: Gabriel Ericus Haartman, M.D. Med. Pract. Prof. Reg. et Ord. Commentaria in Pharmacopanam Sveca- nam proxime praeterlf^pso anno Academico incepta continuabit; docebitautempiiblice h.a.m. XI.inAudi- torio Mathematico ; privatamque operam ad deside- rium Alumnorum Medicoium lubenter accommodabit. Gabriel Bonsdorff, Phil, et Med. Doct., Anot. Cfiirii.rg. et Art. Veter. Prof. Reg. et Ord. Facult. Med. h. a. Decanus, historiam Actionum corporis, quas Animales vocant, publicis lectionibus h. a.m. IX* in Audit. Anatom. habendis, succincte tradet ; Demonstrationi- bus et exercitiis anatomicis atqiie medico-legalibus privatis horis sedulo inserviturus. EXTRAORDINARIUS : JosEPHus G. Pipping, M.D. Med. Prof. Reg. et ,_ Extraord. atque Membrum Fac. Med. Ordinarium, absoluta morborum Oculorum expositions, morbos Gssium corporis humani pertractabit, idque publice in Auditorio Anatomico hora decima antemeridiana. Exercitationes autem privatas desideriis Artis Stu- diosorum salutaris accommodabit. In Facultate Philosophica: Johannes Bilmark, Historiar. ac Philosoph. Pract. Pro- fessor Reg. et Ordin. Jurispriidentiam Naturalem et Politicam Septemtrionalium Europse Regnorum Notitiam publicis Lectionibus, in Auditorio Majori hora XI. a. m. Deo Volente, habendis, alternis vici- bus explicabit; Privatam institutionem desiderio suorum Auditor um accommodaturus. n \\ '2 ^^8 APPENDIX, N" II. ■ AsiiRF.As VhA^UA-!!^, Phy sices Prof. Reg. et Ord. Ele- menta Mechanices, in Auditorio Superior!, hora IP* pomeridiana, publice proponet ; privatim vero ea tra- det, quae Honoratissimi Commilitones desideraverint. Henricus Gabriel Porthan, EloguenticB Professor Reg. et Ord. Orationes Ciceronis selectas et Virgi- lium, diebus alternis, in Auditorio Minori hora ante- merid. X, publice interpretabitur. Privatam vero diligentiam exercitiis styli utriusque, more solito moderandis, aliisque muneris sui partibus, in quibus Auditores suam potissimum exposcere operam intel- lexerit, pro virili implendis, dicabit. Olavus Schalberg, Phil. Mag. nee non Metaphys. et Logices Profess. Reg. atque Ordin. Lectiojiibus puhlicis, Psychologiam Empiricam, D.V., explicabit, privatis ea traditurus, quae sui Auditores ipsi desidera- verint. Publice legethora a.m. octava. Carolus Nicolaus Hellenius, CEcon. Profess. Reg. et Ord. absolutis iis, quae ex cullura olerum proponenda restant, praecepta cultus arborum frugiferarum tradet, idque publice in Auditorio Mathematico hora X'"* antemeridiana. Privatim in omnibus, quee ad se per- tineant, Juventutis Academicae commodis pro virili parte consulet. Johannes Gadolin, Chemice Prof. Reg. et Ord. prte- lectionibus publicis hoc anno Naturam. Aquci^ctSaUum, duce libro a se cdito, explicabit, in Auditorio Mathe- matico hora p. m. Ill"^ Privatam operam ad desideria Auditorum lubens accommodabit. Gustavus Gadolin, Lingg. Orient, et Gr. Prof Reg. et Ord. nee noii Fae. Philos. h. a. Dccanus, publicis lec- tionibus hora a. m. IX. in Auditorio Mathematico APPENDIX, N° II, 469 habendis Iliados Homericcc explicationem continuabit. Privatam operam Uteris Hebrfeis tradendis impendet, neque ceteroquin Honorat. Commilitonum desideriis defutarus. Franciscus Michael Franzen, Hist. Litter. Prof, et Reg. Acad. Bibliothecarius, lectiones quas semestri ver- nali proxime prseterlapso instituit, hoc anno Acade- mico persecuturus, literarum humaniorum apud Ro- manos aliasque et antiquas et hodiernas Euiopse Occidentalis et Borealis gentes Historiam publice in Audit. Mathematico hora a. m. VIII. pertractabit. Ceterum ut ad R. Acad. Bibliothecam Academicis aditus diebus Mercurii et Saturni horis p. m. II. & III. pateat, curabit, et privatim sedulam in iis, quae SUES sunt interpretationis, partibus, operam studiosae juventuti ministrabit. Andreas Johannes Mether, Mathem. Prof. Reg. et Ord. Semestri autumnali utramque Trigonometriam, sequente autera anni hujus Academici intervallo Doctrinam Sectionum Conicarum prselectionibus pub- licis, in Auditorio Minori h. a. m. XL habendis, explicabit. Lectiones privatas desiderio Honor. Com- militonum accommodabit. ADJUNCTI. In Facilitate Tlieologica : Jacobus Bonsdorff, S. S. Theol. Licent. et Adjunct. Ordiyi. in praelegendis, quae restant ex Epitome Theol. Dogm. S. Vener. Mori, capitibus versabitur, cetera quoque et Hermeneutices et Pastoralis Doctrinas momenta baud neglecturus. 470 APPENDIX, N" II. hi FacuUate Medica : NicoLAus AvELAN, Medic. Doct. Anat. Prosector et Facult. Med. Adjunct. Ord., Dissectionibus Anato- micis publice inserviet ; privatim, quae de Lectionibus Osteologicis, feriis Academicis interruptis, explicanda restant, persecuturus. Botan'ices Dcjnonstratoris muiius vacat. In FacuUate Philosopliica : ORDINARII : Henricus Alanus, Reg. Acad. Sec7-etarius, coeptam proxime praeterlapso semestri Tituli Codicis Frideri- c'tayii de Jure Hcereditatis interpretationem, per illud hujus Anni Academici spatium, quo Holmias adhuc commorabitur Ordinarius Juris Professor, publicis Lectionibus ejus loco continuabit, quam simulac absolverit, sequentem ejusdem Codicis Titulum pro ratione temporis adgredietm* explicandum. Privatim Elementa ti-adet Jurisprudentiae Civilis. Johannes Sundwall, Fac. Philos. Adj. Ord. disciplinas morales Auditoribus sius explicare continuabit. EXTRAORDINARIUS : Michael Holmberg, Professor, Adjunctus ChemicB Ex- traordinariiis, Elementa Halurgiag et Pharmaceutices experimentis instituendis Auditoribus demonstrabit. MAGISTRI DOCENTES. In FacuUate Tkeologica : Nicolaus Gustavus Brander, S. Theologicc Docens, desideriis Honoratissimorum Dom. Commilitonum, omni, qua potest diligentia, operam suam accommo- daro conabilur. APPENDIX, N° II. 471 Ericus Johannes Frosterus, Joh. Fil.j S. S. Theologice Docens, in iis, quae suarum sunt partium, praestandis, Honoratissimis Dominis Commilitonibus pro viribus inservire conabitur. hi Facultate Philosophica : Johannes Bonsdorff, Linguar. Sacrar. Docens et Ama- nuens. Consist. Acad, operam suam desideriis Honora- tissimorum Commilitonum lubens accommodabit. Laurentius Wadell, Philos. Pract. et Polit. Docens^ Philosophiam Moralem hoc anno tractabit, in exer- citiis consuetis, si volupe fuerit, desideriis Honor. Dom. Commilitonum non defuturus. Nicolaus Magnus Tolpo, Metaphysices Docens, in ex- hibenda et pro virili explicanda Terminologia Philo- sophise Criticae, vel et in aliis quae ad se pertinent, ope- ram suam Honoratissimis Dom. Commilitonibus ofFert. GusTAVus Gabriel Hallstrom, Physices Docens et Amanuensis Bihlioth. Reg. Acad., Elementa Hydro- staticae Auditoribus proponere constituit. Aliis quo- que tradendis Scientiis Physicis, si id desideraverint Honoratissimi Coramilitones, operam suam omni, qua potest, diligentia impendet. Andreas Johannes Lagus, Gtcbc. Litt. Docens et R. Acad. Biblioth. Aman. Ord.. futuris suis Auditoribus AnthologiamGrcBcam Brunckianam explicare constituit. Johannes Henricus Fattenborg, Litt. Orient. Docens, in Libro Psalmorum explicando desiderio Honorat. Commilitonum satisfacere conabitur. Johannes Petrus Winge, CEconomice Docens, in tra- dendis, quae ad suam spectant scientiam, usui ac de- siderio Honoratissimorum Commilitonum lubenter satisfacere conabitur. 472 APPENDIX, NO II. Magnus Alop^us, Math. Docens, Algebram tradet, de cetero desideriis Honorat. Dom. Commilitonum sese accommodaturus. Joannes Wide, Historiaruni Docens, ad desideria Ho- nor. Commilitonum lubens respondere conabitur. Michael Chor^eus, Eloguentice Docens, in Auctore quovis explicando, atque stylo formando, suam Ho- norat. Commiliton. operam ofFert. Gabriel Palander, Matheseos AdplicatcB Docens et Biblioth. Reg. Acad. Amanuensis, Elementa Astronomiae Sphasricae, aut si quam aliam Honor. Domini Com- militones praeoptaverint ex genere Mathematico dis- ciplinam, tradere constituit. ARTIUM CULTIORUM MAGISTRI. Georgius Danet, Linguce Gallicce Magister, diebus Mercurii et Saturni bora indicanda Librum, cui Ti- tulus : Les Aventures de TeUmaque, publice interpre- tabitur; Studiosis privatam in Lingua Gallica insti- tutionem desiderantibus baud defuturus. Johannes Baptista Meijer, Palcestrce Athleticrj«fec/ at Stockholm in 1776. Helsingborg to Stockholm, hy the Wener Lake. Hejlsingborg, to Engelholm Margaretstorp Karup . . . Laholra . . Halmstad Quibole . , Backegard Falkenberg . Morup Warberg . . Baha . . . Kongsbacka . Kjarra Swed. Miles. 1 1 2 . If H li 2 • Eng. Miles. 16| 7 7 8| 14 8| 8| 111 14 17i 12i Swed. Eng. Miles. Miles. Gothenburg . . . ■ <)\— i^\ Steken 1—7 Lahall 1| _ 7f Katteberg . . . . JA _ 8| Edet 1| — 12i Forss 1 — 7 Grednem 1 — 7 {Trollhatta) Wenersbourg . . . 1\ — 10^ Halby li — 10^ Ferry -1 — 7 Cross the Ferry, to Sjoryd . . Tang \\~ lOJ '} Oi- If 484 APPENDIX, N° IV. Swed. Miles. Ens. Miles. Malby 2—14 Lidkoping . ... 1 — 7 Kaltingen . . . . U — 8| Enebacka IJ — f'| Bjorsatter . . . . IJ — 10^ Mariaestad . . . . li — 8| Plasselrdr . . . . 0| — 5 J Hofva 2|: — 15| Bodarne 2J — 15f Wretstorp 2 — 14 Blackstad 2—14 Mosas 1 — 7 Orebro . . . ' . . 1 — 7 Glandshammer . . . IJ — lOi Swed. Eiig. Miles. Miles. Fallingsbro . . . . 1| — 12^ Arboga 1^ — 8| Koping 1^ — 12J Kalback l> _ 10^ Westeriis 2 — 14 Nygvarn 2^ — 14| Enkoping 1 — 7 Lislena 1 — 7 Gran If — 12i Tible 2—14 Barkarby l-» — lOJ Stockholm . . . . I3 — 10^ Total . 74f . 522f Stockholm to Tornea. Swed. En^. Miles. Miles. Stockholm, to Rotebro 2 — 14 Marstad If — ISJ Alsike If — 12i Upsala i| _ 101 Hogsta 1|:— 8J Laby U— 8| Yfre 2—14 Mehede 2| — J4| Elfcarleby . . . . 1^ — 10^ Gefle 2i — 17J Troje IJ— 12i Hamrange . . . .If — 12^ Skog 2| — 20J Soderahla . . . . 2J — 1^| Nor rah la 1 — 7 Bro 2,1 — 15| Swed. Eng. Miles. Miles. Iggsund H — lOj^ Sanna l| _ 9f Valsta Of — 5i Bringsta If — 12^ Bcihle . . . Mai . . . Sundsvall . . Fjal . . . Norrmark o Aland To the Ferry Ferry Fantskog . . Assja . . . Dogsta Spjute Ilorniis . . n — m 2—14 2i — 15| 1—7 2—14 1 — 7 1|— 12i Oi_ If H — m li — lOi 1 — 7 lis— 111 If- 91 APPENDIX, N" IV. 485 Swed. Miles. Brosta H Tafre H Onske 1^ Afva 2 Lefva IJ Angersjci 1| Sormjcile If Robiick 2 Ferrj to Umea . . . OJ Tafle H Safvar If Djekneboda • . • . Ig Riklea If Gudboda If Grimsmark Sele . . Daglosfen Burea . . Innerick . Sunnana . Frastkagea Byskea Abyn . . Jafre . • H H H H U 1 H n Iff 2 Eng. Miles. 7 T ' 8 7 7- • 8 — 10^ — 14 _10J -111 — lit — 14 — Of -111 — 9f — 13i — 12^ -12i — 8| — 8f -llf — 10-i ~ 8f — 7 -n-i- — 8| — 9f — 14 Swed. Miles. Ens. Miles. Chinbiick, to Pitholm ^ Ferry . . . i Ferry Oi — OJ Pitea Oi — 3.1 Ojebyn Of — 5|: Piilsnas U — 8f Rosvik ..... 1 — 7 Ersnas li — 8| Gjaddvik li — 10^ Ferry Of — 0-J Lulea OJ — Si Person If — 12i Rane If — ISi Vitan . . . . . . IJ — lOi Tore If — 12i Miinsbyn 2| — 145 Grotnas 1—7 Landtjerf . . . . 1| — 7| Sangis li — 7^ Seivis li— 7J Nickala If — lei ToRNEi U— 81 Total . 1131 . 7951 TORNEA 486 APPENDIX, N« IV. ToRNEA, to Enontekis at the Swfd. Miles. ToHNEA, by the Tornea lliver, to Wojakala 1 - Kuckula 1^ - Korpikyla . . . • li - Hjetaniemi . . . • li - Njemis 1 - Ofre Tornea . . • • li - Marjosari . . , • li - Jouxange 7 Svansten 3 PeUo .... Jarlionnen Kirkeden OJ Kieksis . . . . - Si Eug*. Allies. 7 lOi lOi 7 lOJ 81 n — \n 2—14 2 — 14 22| Source of the Muonio River. Swed. Eng. Miles. Miles. Kolare ..;... 3 — 21 Huukis li— 8| Kihlangi . .- . . .3—21 Park;ijoansuu • . .3 — 21 Muonioniska . . . .4—28 Visit to Nomade Lap- T ^ 5.2 —14 landers ....-> Upper Muonioniska .1 — 7 Katkessuando . . .3 — 14 Palojoansuu . . . .3 — 21 Kuttanen 2 — 14 Kaaresuando • . . .2 — 14 Enontekis . . . .1 — 7 Total . 461 . 327 i Enontekis Swed. Miles. Enontekis, by water, to Kaaresuando Kuttanen Palojoansuu Muotkajerf Aunisjerf . Kuru . . Tepasto . Kittila . Ylijasco Alajasco . Pahta-koski Pirti-koski Nikkila . 1 2 2 n li 6 4 ' 6 6 5 . 3 2 n Eng. Miles. • 7 • 14 ■ 14 • lOi . 10^ 42 28 4-2 42 35 21 14 lOi /o Tornea. Swed. Miles Korkila, in the parish l of Ravaniemi . J Rautio H • Koifva Kyla .... 1 ■ Kuika 1 Yatila .... "'. Oi • Koifva Kyla, Parish ^ House, Kilpala . J Tervola 1 Alaparkyla . . • . IJ Kiemi IJ By land to Kylajocki . IJ Tornea 1 Total . 55 'Bag. Miles. — lOi — 10^ — 7 — 7 — 03 — 10^ — 7 — lOi — lOi — lOi — 7 385 APPENDIX, N" IV. 487 Finland. — Tornea to Wasa. Tornea, to Kylajocki Kiemi • . Rautiola . Maxaniemi Simo . . Kjanfraniemi Alafva Ijo . . . ' Haukebodas Jiikuri UleSborg . Kambala . Limmiga . Lumijocki Karingaiigo Sikajocki . Oljocki Brahestad Jufvola Hannila . Luoto . . Swed. Miles. 1 ■ 1 ■ n n ii 2 • n If n n n n 1 OS En?. Miles. 7 lOJ 7 13i 12i 7f U\ 14 lOi n Hi lOA lOJ n n n 101 7 3i i-J — 10 J Swed. £n?. Miles. Miles. Karialuoto .... 1 — 7 lufvala li— 7| Heusala . ... . . li — 7f Roukala li — Sf Hihnala 1§ — lOJ Juntila li — 8| Peitza H — 10^ WiUick li— 71 Gamla Carleby . . .1 — 7 Stora 1^ — lOJ Abbors Of — 6| Karknas Of — 6|- Sundby U — 7| Nya Carleby . . . IJ — 8J Munsela li — 8| Aravais 1| — 12i Koujocki 1 J _ 8| Murka Of ~ 6i Sattila Of — 6i Weikas li— 8| Wasa Of — 6* Total . 52f . 3631 Wasa, across the Gulph of Bothnia, hy the Passage of the QUARKEN to UmeA. Wasa, to Swed. Ensr. Miles. Miles. Iskmo .2 — 14 Isle of Bjoiko .3 — 21 UmeS . . . .10 — 70 Total 15 105 48vS APPENDIX, N" IV. UmEa to SUNDSWALL. Swed. Miles. Knf. Miles. Joi — Umea, to Rtibiick, including the Ferry . . . Sormjole 2 Angersjo If Lefvar If Afva li Onske 2 Tafre ^ Brosta 1|- HornUs . . . . . I5 14 111 111 lOi 14 lOi • 8 < a Swed. Miles. 1* _ Spjute Dogsta Assja 1 Fantskog 1^ Angermanna Ferry . . 1 2 Aland 1| Norrmark Fjal . . Websta . SuNDSWALL 1 — U Kng. Miles. - n -111 - 7 - lOJ - lOi - 12i 7 14 7 81 Total . 27 189 SuNDSWALL, through Helsin and over the Alpine Frontier ^ in Norway. GLAND and Herjeadalen, to RoRAAS, and Tronyem, Swed. Eng. Miles. Miles. SuNDSWALL, to Mai 2i — 15| Gnarp 2—14 Bergsio If— l-2i Afholm 3i — 22f Delsbo H— ^i Norvanna . • . .0^ — S^ Ljusdal 2 J- — 17 » Grafven U — 10^ Karbole 4—28 Kalsatt Nilsvallen Glasseberg Han si (i 2 — 14 2i~15| H — lOi Wiken 2^ — 19i llcde . Laiigosby 1 — 7 1\ - lOi Swed. En?. Milts. Miles. Tannas 3| — 24-J Funnesdalen • . . IJ — 10^ Malmagen . . . .2 — 14 Briikken, in N'orway .2 — 14 Riiraas 3—21 HofF 2—21 Magornu 1^ — lOJ Gaare 0^ — 3^ Cliurchwall . . . . 2^ — 17J Bogen lA _ 10 J Sognses 1| — 10* Foss 1 — 7 Loir 1 — 7 Melhuus 0| — 5J Oust 1—7 Tronyem . . . • IJ — 8f Total . (il . 4.i? ' APPENDIX, N« TV- 489 Tronyem to Christiania. N.B. The Norwegian Miles are here made equivalent to the Swedish Miles, being much greater than the Danish ; although perhaps not quite equal each to Seven Miles English. Norway Miles. Tronyem, to Oust U - Melhuus . i . . • Of - Leir 1 - Foss 1 - Sognaes 1 - Hoff 2 - Birkager 1 - Sundset 1 - Stuen li - Ofnet U - RUsen 1 - Drivstuen . . . . 1 - Kongswold .... 2 - Jerkin 1^ - Fogstuen 2 - Tofte li - Olstad ; . . . . IJ - Formoe 1^ - Breiden IJ - Viig If - Moen 1 _ Eng. Miles. 8| 0^ 7 7 7 14 7 7 8f 8f 7 7 14 10 J 14 10-i «f 10^ 81 12} 7 Norway Eng. Miles. Miles. Oden 1 — 7 Elstad ]^. _ loj^ Losnes . .... 1 — 7 Stav 1' _ lOi Moshuus . . . . 1} — 8| Jorstad 1^ — 10^ Rone 1A — lOJ Svennis 1| — 10^ Svee 1—7 Hanne 1 — 7 Brelie Of _ 5} Lunden of — 5| Gronna IJ- — 8f Garsjoe If — 12J Bandelie 1 — 7 Roholt J — 14 Dragsvold . ... 2 — 14 Moe 1 — 7 Schesmoe 1 — 7 Romsaas 1| — 10^ Christiania . . .1 — 7 Total . 54 . 378 VOL. XI. K K 490 APPENDIX, N« IV. Christiania to Stockholm. Danish Miles. Christiania, to Romsaas .... . 1 Schesmoe • . . . n "^Joe . 1 Holen . 1 Kiolstad .... . n Hieberg .... . 1 Ous . 15 Sindby .... . 1 Kongswinger . H Edsbroen . . . ■ U Magnor (Enter the Swedish territory) 14 Swed. Miles. ] Enst. Vliles. Magnor to Morast . . 1 — 7 Haga . 1 — 7 Strand .... . 1 — 7 Hogvalla . If — 12i Leerhol .... . n — lOJ Skamniis .... . 1 — 7 Hogboda .... . oi _ H Prestbol .... . n- 10* Ilberg . 1 — 7 Carlstad .... . if- m Brastegard . . . ■ u- 8| Molkem .... • H- 12i Bfiittcfors . . 2 — 14 Philipstad . . . . H — 8f Onshvtta . Of- 5i 1 Swed. Ell?. Miles. Miles. Saxan . . ... 1 — 7 Nytorp 2i — 14| Hjulsio n — lOi Laxbro 2 — 14 Hogforss . . . . 1^ — lOi Hellsion IJ — lOJ Ostanbo 1 — 7 Smedbacka . . . . 1^ — 10^ Bommarsbo . . • . JJ — IO3 Russ-garden . . . .1 — 7 Naglarby . . . . 1^ _ 8J Fahlun . . . . . 2^ — 15f Naglarby 2i — 15| Sater If— 12;^ Grado 2—14 Avestad ^ — 10^ Broddebo . . . . 2| — 19i Sala U— oj To the Mine, and ■) return .... J Tarnaby U — Sf Gastre IJ — 12i Langtora U — 8f Safva U — 10,1 Upsala Ij — 12i Alsike 11 — lOi Marsta H — l^i Rotebro l^- — 12^ Stockholm . - . .2 — 14 Total . f'3| i 4 7r APPENDIX, N" IV. 491 From Stockholm to Abo. Swed. Eng. Wiles. Miles. Stockholm, to Eustad . • . 1| - 12i Osby . . . . . .2-1-1 Hall . • .1 — 7 .1—7 Hilanda Kragstu . . • Svanberg . . .1—7 Staby . . . . . . U— 8| Tresta . • • . li — lOi Grissehamn . . . .Of - 5i JBy water to Ekero . .7—49 By land to Frebbenby . n- H Enkerby . . ' n— 8| Haroldsby . . . • u — 8i Skarpans . . . . . U— 8| Swed. Miles. Vardci 1^ By water to Kuiulinge, 3 Over ice to Bjorkci . . J;^ Brando, by land . . . 1 :i Over ice to Varssala . 24 Over ice and land to Helsing . . . By land to Himois . . 1| Vjnkela Of Laitis Oj Tursanpare . . . . 1| Nussis-Nummis . . . 1^ o Abo Iff .MiU>. -lUi - 21 - of - H - in h- 14 3i lOi 10^ lU Total . 42 J . 297^ From Abo to the Frontier of Russia. .Swed. Miles, o Abo, to Peike IJ Vistu li Handela If Sahla 1 Haila 2 Savankby . . . .If Bjorsby . . . . .2 F.ns. Miles. — 10 J Miolbaltstad Kockis BoUsU . Quis . , 2 . . II • . U . . 2 Bembole 1 1 7 14 IH 14 U 12i 8^ 14 12i Helsingfors Sw-d. Kii;, Miles. Miles. 2 — 14 Haxbole . . . . . IJ Sibbo 1^ 11 — 1 — 10^ H 8J 7 Forsby U — 8f 7 8J 7 34 Wakkaski Borgo . Illby . Paruo . Louisa Tesjo . Abersfors 1 — H — 1 — Oi — Total . 33 f . 230 i 492 APPENDIX, N" IV. From Aberfors to Petersburg. Russian Eng. Versts. Miles. Aberfors, to Kymene . • • . 22^ — 15 Frederickshamm . . 22^ — 15 Kouxis . . . . . 16 — lOf Puterlace • . • .18 — 12 Ursala .... . 16 — lOf Villiouxis . . . . 23 — 15J Tevrouxis . . . . 17 — Hi Wibourg . . . .20 — IS Russian Eng. Versts. Miles. Konuta 22 — 14J Suenoya 22 — 14^ Pampola 18 — 12 LindoUa 20—13 Bulostrof 18—12 Drasnicof 15 — 10 Petersburg . . . - 25 — 16^ Total . 293 . 195§ LONDON: PRINTED HY R. WATTS, Crown Court, Temple Bar. JIA^^ This book is DUE on the last date stamped below RIC'D LO-Uflft University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 305 De Neve Drive - Parking Lot 17 • Box 951388 LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 90095-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. »APRn7?^ UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 111^49 'ii y»- I PLEA«: DO NOT REMOVE THIS BOOK CARdZ =■ ^^^t•LIBRARYQ^ University Research Library : > r r c OJ m 3) < o r ■u ? r 1 ) "j1 1 _-J 1 1 J _„l 1 1 _J ) 1 1 C H I O ^SsiS*^'^ •\^vj^"^VJCv^ ^^\\s ^^?5^1^\ ^i"'^-. tFv 'fm^. 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