THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES A NATIVE GIRL. Through Luzon On Highways and Byways By WILLIS BLISS WILCOX Paymaster U. S. N. FRANKLIN BOOK COMPANY Philadelphia Copyright IQOI WILLIS BLISS W1LCOX IDS To My Faithful Friend H. P. This Book is Dedicated. PREFACE. IT may seem strange to the average mind, that the island of Luzon, although having been in Spanish hands for so many years, is as yet not one-fourth discovered. The most attractive portions of the island, the foothills and mountains of the interior, are unpen- etrated. The legends of the wild tribes, the fierce Igor- rotes and Negritos, have been doubtless the bug- bear that has kept inquiring minds away from the most desirable and at the same time inaccessible places. It cannot be long before the venturesome American will go into the provinces of Abra, Le- pato, Bontoc and Benguet on the West, and Caga- yan and Nueva Viscaya on the East, and find there in the fastnesses of the cannibalistic Igorrotes, the verification of the tales of reputed wealth in mines of gold and copper. He will learn at least that the climate is salubrious, and amid the forests of pine, and towering, stately tropical trees, realize vii viii PREFACE. that the splendor of Luzon is hidden in the ranges of the Cordilleras. In due time the country will become reconciled to a higher civilization, but the process of regen- eration will be slow. To alter their nature and make them forget their former selves, will require time and patience. The native will remain with a Malay tinge for generations, and I quite believe it will be as difficult to change the Tagalo as a Hin- doo. For this reason it is not probable that the Filipinos will at once get over what they have learned in their bondage for more than three cen- turies and a half. They know no other means of governing their people than that which has been taught them. They must have new laws not the Spanish code and examples of faithfulness and loyalty to the country, in the interest of a general welfare for all. The strictly native I consider su- perior to any I have seen in Spanish American countries, certainly more so than those of Mexico, the Argentine, Paraguay and Uruguay. Frequent intercourse will eventually lead to the adoption of one homogeneous language, where at present each district has its own peculiar dialect. The building of a railroad through the interior from Manila to Aparri by government aid, if possi- ble, will open a vast area of wonderfully productive PREFACE. ix land. The establishment of post offices, where mails are frequent, will develop an interest in af- fairs of each province and the central government in particular. Free public schools in every town and village, such as reach beyond the confines of mere ecclesi- astical instruction, is of first and greatest import- ance. A strong protecting hand will make this vast island a garden spot so far as productiveness is concerned, and unlock its storehouses of wealth. This will especially be true when taxation is fair and equitable and when the inhabitants can be sure that the fruits of their industry and their homes and families will be secure from molestation, and the many ingenious methods heretofore in vogue will not again be put in operation to filch from them their honest gains. The question of titles to landed property is a serious one, and doubtless will be a stumbling block most difficult to overcome. This is well un- derstood by those who have made inquiries with a view of obtaining possession of tracts of land for cultivation. Any information that is added to the general store of knowledge of Luzon cannot but be wel- comed. No doubt in Madrid there exists many x PREFACE. volumes concerning the island, and especially those written by the friars who have been so long and so intimately associated with all classes of the in- habitants. This valuable collection may be trans- lated at no distant day. While confining my description to the ground that I have personally been over, I have tried to make it typical of the whole, so that the book, though it does not describe the whole of Luzon, may yet present an intelligible picture of the coun* try. I am under great obligations to Gen. McArthur, Gen. Whittier and Major Bement, of the army, for a part of my equipment, horses, saddles, etc., and especially to Admiral Dewey for permitting me to make the journey. W. B. W, Pensacola, Florida, March, 1901. CONTENTS. PAGE. In Old Manila 17 From Bayombong to Carranglan 32 Crossing the Caraballos 69 The Valley of the Rio Magat 82 From Bayombong to Carig 95 Ilagan the Capital of Isabela 1 18 Down the Rio Grande to Aparri 132 From Aparri to Salomague 142 Vigan Capital of Ilocos Sur 152 Along the West Coast 163 The Province of Benguet 175 The Military Element 193 In Conclusion 200 Appendix 214 ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE. A Native Girl Frontispiece. The Luneta at Manila 23 A Street Scene in Manila 34 Bridge Across Pasig River at Manila 39 A Street Scene in Malate 58 A Typical Home in the Country 75 A Negrito 94 A Spanish Mestiza in A Native Caromata 147 Fishing on the Rio Grande 166 Manner of Handling Carabao on the Road 171 A Casco with Natives Fishing 182 A Native Fruit Carrier 187 Ploughing with the Carabao 206 A Street Scene from the Foothills 211 A Type of Native 222 ziii (Copy of Better from Admiral Dewey.) No. 14168. UNITED STATES NAVAL FORGE ON ASIATIC STATION. Flagship Olympia, CAVITE, P. 1., November 27, 1898. SIR: 1. 1 have to acknowledge the report prepared by Paymaster W. B. Wilcox, and Naval Cadet, L. R. Sargent, of the vessel under your command, on their recent journey through the Island of Luzon. 2. You will please express to these officers my highest com- mendation for their thoroughness of observation, and for the care and ability shown in the preparation of this valuable report. Very respectfully, (Signed) GEORGE DEWEY, Rear Admiral U. S. Navy, Commanding U. S. Naval Force on Asiatic Station. The Commanding Officer, U. S. S. Monadnock, Cavite, P. I. (Copy of the endorsement of Admiral Dewey forwarding the report made to him of the journey described in the following pages.) FLAGSHIP OLYMPIA, CAVITE, P. I., December i, 1898. Approved and respectfully forwarded for the information of the Navy Department. Especial attention is invited to this interesting and carefully prepared report, which, In my opinion, contains the most com- plete and reliable information obtainable in regard to the present state of the northern part of Luzon Island. (Signed) GEORGE DEWEY, Rear Admiral, U. S. N., Commanding Asiatic Station. 'CHAPTER I. IN OLD MANILA: IN the old city of Manila, on April 30, 1898, wHen the cathedral bells had sounded the last Ave Maria upon Spanish regime that had for more than three centuries and a half dominated the Phil- ippines by means peculiar to itself alone, the cur- tain dropped upon the scene in the last act of Spain's colonial greatness, and upon a nation that had given so much to the world by its discoveries of the now important parts of the globe. The glory and magnificence that had held full sway in the capital of the Philippines in the early part of the nineteenth century are being rapidly re- placed by a realistic, latter-day civilization. The small, old walled city on banks of Pasig river, with moats and castellated towers and dungeons that gave ample security for the perpetration of all kinds of intrigues, contained seventeen religious, seventeen official and ten military edifices, cover- ing^ more than half the total area within its walls. 7 i8 THROUGH LUZON. The remote situation of the islands, and the fact of their being so little known, and of less interest to the outside world, gave those in official position ample opportunity to indulge the full bent of their inclination, which they considered adequate recom- pense for their exile in a country inhabited by a not over-civilized race of people. At this time the Governor-General was supreme and his advisers consisted of the Archbishop of Manila, the military and naval commanders, and various other official chiefs, which gave him a pow- er as absolute as the nature of the individual wished to exercise. The number of Spaniards who came from the Peninsula was limited, and those who received appointment to the colony saw the years pass tranquilly, in quietude, contentment and happiness. Nothing disturbed the continual round of ease but fiesta dias, which are always numerous enough in Spanish countries. The Governor-General ap- peared in public in all the splendor of his rank, and when he moved about the city he was constantly surrounded by officers and others of the military force, clothed in all the gorgeousness that could be displayed. The nights were made brilliant with social gatherings when women and men donned the finest raiment peculiar to their sex, making the IN OLD MANILA. 19 scene animated and intoxicating and the hours slip away unnoticed. All this prodigality of dis- play was intended to, and resulted in, impressing the native mind with awe and admiration. For indolence and lack of energy the climate made ample excuse. There was no thought of the mor- row, no care for the inhabitants, only in so far as they served their uses as attendants and provided the products of the soil, for which the only return was the empty honor of serving their masters. The various religious orders, Augustines, Domi- nicans and Franciscans, were the first to penetrate the interior and establish their missions among the naturales, and the books published by them gave a more minute description of the people and their manner of living than any that had heretofore been written, but during all the years of Spanish con- trol there was little done by that government to bring the resources and productions of the country up to a level even with that of China. With the opening of closer communication by the Suez Canal, and by cable, more Europeans ar- rived, and in time the new city of Manila, across the Pasig, grew into importance, and to-day is modern in many ways. Living is not so dreadful as it might seem to be in a tropical country, and with reasonable caution there need not be much ao THROUGH LUZON. fear of endemic diseases. The natural thrift of the Englishman has added much to make one's so- journ in Manila more attractive than it would oth- erwise be. There is the English Club, the Tiffin Club, Jockey Club, grounds for tennis and cricket, and many other customs and ideas which an Eng- lishman invariably packs as part of his luggage when he leaves home for a colonial residence. There are also other means of recreation. In the early evening along the Luneta, when all that is beautiful and fashionable pass and repass in hand- somely equipped Victorias and on horseback, which, with the recent arrivals in carromates and quiles, make a picturesque and animated line of turnouts for two hours, during the coolest portion of the day. The hotels are well furnished and the food is such that one, not over particular, can sat- isfy his appetite wholesomely by forgetting that there are better things elsewhere. Most of the im- portant commercial houses, as well as the only railroad from Manila to Dagupan, are managed by Englishmen. One does not so much mind the rainy season, which extends from June until late in November, as during those months the freshness occasioned by frequent and abundant showers lowers the tem- perature many degrees. The months of March, IN OLD MANILA. 21 April and May are hot and dry, while from No- vember to February it is dry, but more temperate. In these three climatic divisions of the year the cool season has an average of 71 degrees F., with 34 rainy days ; the hot and dry, 87 degrees, with 30 days of rain; the wet 84 degrees, with 72 rainy days; a total of 136 days with 55.11 inches of rain- fall, and an extreme range in temperature of only 1 6 degrees for the entire year. During the early morning Manila is full of busi- ness life and excitement, to which is added the happy throng of well-dressed native women going to and returning from mass; but at noon the city has the aspect of a deserted village ; the major por- tion of the merchant class take a siesta until two or three o'clock in the afternoon, when the city is again enlivened for the rest of the day. In mingling with the many English and Philip- pine residents whom I had met in the latter part of 1898, I made frequent inquiries about the interior, its people, its lands and productions, but found the statements not what I desired in definiteness, with most of the information dependent upon not alto- gether too reliable sources. It was, indeed, so un- satisfactory that I concluded that a tour through the heart of the island would repay all the effort and hardship incidental to a close investigation of a new and interesting country. M THROUGH LUZON. When Luzon in its magnificence and extent is generally known to comprise 68,932 square miles, with an extreme length from northwest to south- east of 480 miles, and a population of 3,500,000, it will be readily seen what a vast territory remains to be fully explored. While this is in progress, each year will add much to the general knowledge of the country, and will result in great benefit to all who may seek that locality as a place for occupa- tion and to share in the many developments which will rapidly follow the peaceful possession by the United States. The many discouragements to be encountered in making an extended tour through Luzon, as shown by the route on the map in the front of this book, seemed to crop up on every hand, and the proba- bilities of success were not inviting. Many of the residents of Manila to whom my proposed journey was made known did not encourage the undertak- ing. They said the difficulties lay in the holding of the interior by the Filipino insurgents, who would not wish to assist any foreigner in an investiga- tion of the country, and then there were the fierce and cannibalistic Igorrotes and Negritos, whose chief occupation was head-hunting, and, while con- templating my journey, I frequently imagined my- IN OLD MANILA. *$ self threatened with being eaten alive in the wilds of the province of Nueva Vizcaya. In October, 1898, the American military con- trol was effective only in Manila and Cavite. The insurgents, under Aguinaldo, who had proclaimed himself President of the whole archipelago, im- mediately after Dewey's victory, were supposedly in complete possession of every part of the Island outside of these two cities, and their lines were so close to the outposts of our army that their people could at times converse with our soldiers. Gen- eral Otis's authority did not extend much beyond a three-mile radius from the center of Manila, while Admiral Dewey held and operated the Navy Yard at Cavite. Even the country between Ma- nila and Cavite was in the hands of Aguinaldo, so much so that our officers had been refused per- mission to land at any intermediate point by water, and were prohibited from traversing the distance by road. With this knowledge in my possession I returned on board the "Monadnock" one evening and un- folded my plans to Naval Cadet L. R. Sargent, a young man who, though slight in build, I knew had more courage and endurance than any other person whom I could wish to accompany me. He was not only willing, but full of enthusiasm and 26 THROUGH LUZON. anxiety to go. The most serious and real obstacle in the way of carrying out our scheme was the necessary leave of absence. We had made a sketch on a small map showing the country we intended passing through, and sent it to Captain Whiting, then commanding the "Monadnock," who referred it to Admiral Dewey with a favorable endorse- ment, which implied much significance in the furth- erance of our cause. When the application was re- turned from the Admiral with his approval and an order to make a full report to him, it was with the greatest delight and fondest hopes that we began the preparation of the arrangements necessary for such an undertaking, which consisted in providing ourselves with horses, guns, tents and food. At this juncture I was unavoidably detained on board the vessel for two days, but in the meantime Mr. Sargent, through his acquaintance with Major Bement, of the army, was busy getting together horses and equipments. Three of these animals were obtained . from the army stock, and five of them I bought in the open market. The tents and saddles were loaned from the stores captured from the Spaniards. During our trip I found these old- fashioned equipments so cumbersome that each day I was obliged to cut away such portions as 1 deemed useless and unnecessary, and at the end of IN OLD MANILA. 27 our journey, when these mutilated articles were re- turned to army headquarters, I feared lest my ac- tion was not appreciated, and was uncertain as to the advisability of making inquiries in that direc- tion. I left the ship on the 6th of October and went to the hotel Lalla Ary, in Manila, from which place the expedition was to start on the 8th of the month. Mr. Sargent had gone to Malolos with letters from Consul General Williams and General McArthur relative to obtaining passes for our expedition from Aguinaldo. As these letters were not addressed to Aguinaldo personally, for obvious reasons, he declined to grant our request. Another trip to Malolos became necessary, and Sargent spent a day and a night there, joining me at Bayambang on Sunday night. Aguinaldo is a bright man in every way, young, with great force of character, ambitious, and he dominates all around him with a power that seems peculiar to himself. I had seen him at Cavite Vie- jo, but unfortunately had no personal conversation with him. He adroitly read between the lines that the government of the United States did not then, nor would it at any future time, recognize his au- thority. Sargent succeeded in obtaining a second inter- a8 THROUGH LUZON. view with Aguinaldo's officials concerning the greatly desired passes, but with every courtesy Aguinaldo declined to give the protection of his consent to permit us to penetrate the interior, on account of the responsibility he might assume in assuring us of safety from injury or death in locali- ties where his loyalty might be questionable. In addition to these difficulties was the oft-repeated bugbear of the untamed and terrible Igorrotes of the mountains, by whom even Spanish civilization had not yet been adopted. We heard this perpet- ually from the beginning to the end of the journey, and when I saw these aborigines personally, they did not terrify me half as much as I had been led to believe they would. Mr. Sargent, however, obtained from Aguinaldo an assent to the trip, and only a verbal guarantee of the protection of his soldiers, from among whom he formed and offered a guard for our escort which was neither declined nor accepted. He professed to stand in great awe of the President of the United States, and seemed to have a serious regard for his wrath or approval, and was apprehensive lest any disaster to us would reflect upon the security of Americans in the different provinces of Luzon. All this was but an ingenious way of dissuading us from proceeding, and although thus handicapped IN OLD MANILA. 29 we decided to press forward until we could go no farther. I took as an outfit eight horses, saddles and tents; five native servants, one Winchester rifle, one Mauser and one Remington, two navy revolv- ers, one shot gun, axes and hatchets and a coil of rope for use in crossing streams. Blankets, four sailor's clothes bags; some quinine and laudanum were also stored away. For food we took only twenty five pounds of bacon, twenty-five pounds of hardtack, five pounds of tea, and what cooking utensils we deemed indispensable; but I hoped to supply any deficiency in our larder by foraging on the country as we proceeded, as game was said to be quite plentiful. Everything was loaded into the cars of the Manila-Dagupan Railroad on Saturday, October 8th, for transportation to Bayambang, in the province of Pangasinan. I carried a letter of introduction from General Charles Whittier, of the United States Army, to a Mr. Clark, of Bayam- bang, who was then in charge of the rice mill of Smith, Bell & Co. of Manila, with whom I found a welcome and most generous hospitality for my- self and attendants. He was entertaining a num- ber of officers of the English navy from her Majes- ty's ship "Powerful," and Sunday was spent in a most agreeable and comfortable manner without a 3 THROUGH LUZON. thought of the hardship's which were to begin with the early morning's start. The railway from Manila to Dagupan,i2O miles, an English corporation, traverses the richest and most populous part of Luzon, passing through the provinces of Manila, with 300,000 population ; Bul- acan, 239,221 ; Pampanga, 223,902; Tarlac, 89,339, and Pangasinan, 302,178, or nearly one-third the total population of the whole island. In this dis- tance the railroad crosses first the Rio Grande Pampanga, emptying into the Bay of Manila, and next the Rio Agno, which flows in a northly direc- tion into the Gulf of Lingayen. Both rivers are most important means of transportation for the timber found on the thickly wooded banks, and the various products from the five provinces which they drain. With 136 rainy days in the year there is certainly always plenty of water, and the numer- ous other important rivers of Luzon offer induce- ment for enterprise in carrying the increasing traf- fic, by means of shallow stern-wheel steamers. This industry will reach surprising proportions in a few years. The Rio Grande de Cagayan, which courses through this vast territory, will have es- pecial attention in another chapter. The Manila-Dagupan Railroad has been exceed- ingly profitably in past years, even in competition IN OLD MANILA. with the water route. It is well built, having steel bridges and stone embankments, heavy rails and excellent equipment. The General Manager, Mr. Higgins, invited me into his private car for the trip. His long, hard work has resulted in building a rail- road which reflects great credit upon himself and his company. The projection of the road yet un- built, leads along the coast from Dagupan to the extreme north of the island in the province of Ilo- cos Norte, the construction of which, no doubt, will shortly follow the return of peace among the inhabitants. Quick transportation is most essen- tial in stimulating production as well as in spread- ing information that will convince the native of the benefits of good government and encourage them in habits of thrift and industry. CHAPTER II. FROM BAYAMBANG TO CARRANGLAN. BRIGHT and early on Monday morning, Oc- tober 10, in a drizzling rain, I had the pack horses ready, and just before starting Mr. Clark gave me little assurance of rapid progress. I had thought of covering about twenty-five miles a day, but he curbed my impetuosity somewhat when he remarked, "Your pace will be that of your slowest pack horse," and subsequently turned out that he was correct. I did not figure on the Span- ish pack saddles, which were seemingly made for no other purpose than to tear the hide from the horses' backs and keep an open sore. After I had mounted into the saddle, Mr. Clark with a know- ing smile, said: "You won't be allowed to go far, and when you return in a day or two, you will find open house." Many times during the trying days which followed I recalled his words, and my thoughts reverted longingly to the "open house. 3* FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 35 The small village of Alcola, in Pangasinan, six miles distant, was reached at noon, and here opened out my first view of the interior. The rain had ceased, the sun shown down with burning fierceness, but the roads were seas of mud. Horses were of little use for riding; it was all the poor beasts could do to carry their heavy saddles, with- out an extra 210 pounds in the shape of my per- son. Sometimes a mile or so of dry land was found, and at others I was compelled to dismount and wade through a stretch of sticky clay in which I became mired and stuck fast, and from which I had to be assisted. I had thought myself wise and prudent in buying a pair of heavy leather boots while in Manila long ones, that reached to my knees and I stuck to them only until I found a native with a pair of old shoes, when I quickly made a trade. The reader can imagine the weight of such a pair of boots when soaked with water and covered with mud, and the fatigue and discom- fort of walking in them when the sun shines out fiercely after a heavy shower. My native men did not burden themselves with any covering for their feet, and provided extremely little clothing for their bodies, so that, when these long sloughs were met, it was a comparatively easy matter for them to get through. Upon the road, which was at 36 THROUGH LUZON. times sufficiently wide to admit of our passing each other, we met many carts loaded with rice, hauled by the useful and indispensable caribao, or water buffalo, an animal much more at home in rivers and mud puddles than on dry land, and seemingly es- pecially designed by Providence for work in a country the soil of which is most of the time sub- merged in a sheet of water. The caribao is a tre- mendously powerful animal, as the illustration giv- en here will show. Without him the Luzonos would be utterly helpless in the cultivation of their fields. "It is very common," says Francisco Jiminez, "to see in the hour of siesta, under the shade of a tree or hut, the caribao masticating patiently a mis- erable piece of sugar cane and the owner talking tenderly to the animal in most affectionate sen- tences. A mysterious sympathy unites the caribao and native, the beast comprehending all the words of his master and indicating his wishes in all his movements. When being loaded, and the weight increasing too much, he indicates this by expres- sions in long snorts that it is sufficient. The owner, being short, the caribao voluntarily goes down on his knees to enable the native to mount. Those with sufficient knowledge assert that the only fam- ily of the Filipino consists of the caribao and game FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 37 cock. Upon these he lavishes his fondness, and his indolent, egotistic character finds only in them a veritable necessity for his life." Campaigning for the army in the provinces of Tarlac, Pangasinan and Neuva Ecija, if it must be carried on for any length of time, will be found very difficult, as little headway can be made through rice fields almost constantly under water and roads so frequently impassable. A design made by Captain Hahn of the U. S. Engineers at Manila, (which I had the pleasure of examining), for moving ammunition and supplies for troops in just such a country, impressed me as quite the thing. It was a square, steel water-tight box, 6 feet in length, 4 feet wide and 5 feet high, which was to be placed upon runners on dry land, and hauled through the deep, wet places by caribao, its weight sinking it, but protecting the articles within by water tight joints. Though this stretch of country is low, it is ad- mirably suited for rice cultivation, which has re- cently been resumed after long neglect during the insurrection against Spain, and because of its pecul- iar adaptability for this product, the soil could not be turned to other agricultural account with so great a profit. At intervals along our paths were to be seen native huts, whose occupants were indus- 38 THROUGH LUZON. triously pounding out rice from palay, as it is called when cut from the ground and secured in bunches eight inches in length. Rice is the first and most important article of food grown, and more than 100 different varieties are known, distinguished by color, size, taste and application. The variety called Quinamalig is early, and produces a harvest in three months, and, with the later kinds, two crops a year are raised. The ordinary value of clean rice is about $1.00 for 133 pounds. The to- tal production is not sufficient for the wants of the inhabitants of the island by thousands of tons, the deficiency being imported, mostly from Saigon. Resting for a light lunch at Alcola, a large num- ber of the inhabitants gathered about us from curi- osity, and I gained as much satisfaction from my point of view as did they. All ages and both sexes were represented. Some of the men were dressed conventionally with their shirts hanging loosely outside their trousers, but the more important ele- ment wore neat fitting military blouses, hats and shoes. The women were attired in the Tagalo cos- tume: A large piece of any colored light cloth draped from the hips down to somewhat below the knees, showing a white petticoat beneath, and a loose thin white blouse with low neck and short sleeves. The youngest of both sexes in ages up FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 4 1 to six and seven years, had added nothing to their stock of birthday clothing. The people were all very respectful and polite and offered the hospital- ity of their homes, but at that time I preferred the open air and the shade of an inviting spot on the banks of a small stream. It was, perhaps, a mis- take to neglect to take a long siesta during the heat of the day a custom which even Americans will fall into when its advantages are learned but I was impatient to press ahead, and, if possible, reach Resales by nightfall. No telling what the roads would be, and there was not much reliable information to be had from the natives, who made but a few miles a day and camped anywhere at night, indifferent as to when they reached their destination. On the banks of the rivers are usually found small shelters made of bamboo poles and nipa, or palms, where the easy-going natives camp for days at a time while waiting for the flooded streams to subside. Proceeding nearly due east along the banks of the Rio Agno, I found the roads at times impassa- ble, and frequently had to turn out and follow a trail that led through heavy brush, and on one oc- casion my horse, after struggling through a stretch of deep marsh dropped down exhausted, and, I thought, dying, -but he was soon restored by the 3 4 THROUGH LUZON. application of water and vigorous fanning. This road is the only avenue of communication between the towns, consequently the natives see very little of each other during the wet spells. Had it not been for press of time and a promise of good roads when in the mountains,! am sure I should have lost my courage and determination to finally get through. At sundown a fairly desirable spot was selected for camp, and, though only about one mile from Rosales, I decided on account of darkness and fatigue to rest for the night. A tent was soon pitched, horses tethered and supper prepared, which consisted of fried bacon, hard tack and tea, and which was heartily relished by all. Soon after making camp we were visited Sy offi- cial representatives from the "Presidente Local" of Rosales, who extended a most cordial welcome and hearty invitation to come into town and enjoy bet- ter comfort and conveniences for further progress. I was grateful for this kindness, the more so be- cause it was unexpected, and in such striking con- trast to the feeling I was led to anticipate. Mos- quitoes were plentiful, but being worn out I rested upon the ground without disturbance until morn- ing. By daylight all hands were up and busy packing equipments, and after enjoying the same menu as on the night before, proceeded into town. FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 43 I learned here that it is the invariable custom for strangers to immediately call upon the "Presidente Local" on entering the place, and this I made haste to do, anxious to meet these people half way in the cordial and receptive feeling they appeared to have for us. At this time all the local govern- ment of the different towns was in the hands of Aguinaldo's adherents, and on reaching the house of the "Presidente," I was met by him and his offi- cials, and found that our arrival had been expected. They regretted that we had stopped on the out- skirts of the town the previous night, and seemed fearful lest the discomforts we experienced might reflect upon their hospitality. These officials were all neatly attired in military dress, with the distin- guishing insignia of rank a cane with a gold head and a red tassel for the "President," the same for the others, but with a silver head and green tassel. Their manners were polite and I found their con- versation agreeable and friendly. The "Presi- dente" had undoubtedly received instructions from Aguinaldo to send a military escort with us beyond Rosales, which was continued by relays all the way to Aparri. There was little or no choice in the matter of the acceptance of this protection, and I readily received it for the security and the shade 44 THROUGH LUZON. of official recognition it might lend to me as I pro- ceeded. Just before leaving the place an old Tagalo, a man whom I had selected in Manila, commenced to weaken on the prospects of such a long journey and after telling him, in the presence of the others that I only wanted men of fearlessness and endur- ance, I paid him off and sent him back upon a broken down horse to Mr. Clark, at Bayambang, I had placed about five hundred Mexican dollars in the saddle bag with which to replace possible loss of animals and for general expenses, and to the credit of the inhabitants of all the provinces I trav- elled through, it was as safe there as in any bank. I used but a trifling portion of this amount, for in every town my entertainment was given without pay, which I the more fully appreciated from the fact that the people gave me their best, regretting it was not better, while I knew the conditions were such they had very little for themselves. I left Resales in about two hours, accompanied by six insurgent soldiers armed with Remington rifles under the command of a native officer, the guard being changed at every town. We were also accompanied by a sub-official, Don Tomas, who rode by my side, and his conversation was so pleasant and his Spanish so correct, that I asked FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 45 him to remain with me throughout the whole trip, which he did, his information and acquaintance with the country being of great value to me. I placed him in charge of all the other servants, but he ate with me at every meal and shared my tent. From Resales to Humingan, in the same prov- ince, a distance of fifteen miles, the roads were somewhat better,but there were deep sloughs many rods in length and a small river to ford, which, with the assistance of caribao brought in from the fields, we were able to accomplish in pretty good condition. The party now consisted of a long line of horses and men on foot, and our arrival was made known by courier. For reasons unknown to me an employe of the railroad at Manila had put my name on the freight bill as the "American Gen- eral," and it had preceded me throughout the trip. When the expedition arrived at the different sta- tions and the people saw the "General" in a big sombrero, blue flannel shirt, citizen's coat and leg- gings, there was a manifest look of doubt and dis- appointment. Why didn't he travel in uniform and in the style of an officer of rank? At sun down we reached Humingan and met a most friendly welcome. I was entertained by the "Presidente" at dinner, and was greatly surprised at the excellent quality of food and service. The 46 THROUGH LUZON. table was covered with a neat white linen cloth, the dishes were of very good crockery, and the nap- kins and other essentials better than I had thought were used in the country, while the meal consisted of excellent soup, fried eggs, roast chicken, boiled beef, good bread, potatoes, rice, lettuce, tomatoes, good coffee and many sweetmeats. After enjoy- ing this we all adjourned to the sala, where six musicians with flutes, a cornet, violin and guitars were in waiting. The average Filipino can furnish good music, to which many adapt themselves, and they will play for hours. The last thing I remem- ber before going to sleep that night in a four- posted bed, with clean white sheets and pillow cases, was the music of this band, and they came again in the morning for reveille. The "Presidente" made many inquiries regard- ing the outcome of the war with Spain and their own future, and on the other hand I found out as much as possible concerning the products and con- dition of the country. An interesting and amusing sight was furnished us in the morning by the manner of threshing pal- ay, the straw containing rice. Large handfuls of this straw are put into a trough and a number of young girls in a really pleasing manner do the work with a heavy piece of wood about six inches FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 47 in diameter and four feet long, by lifting it in the air and throwing it down with each hand alternate- ly. Their motions are regular and certainly very graceful, and they appear light hearted and cheer- ful amid such apparently hard labor. But I had as yet found nothing to satisfy my curiosity or confirm the reputed wildness of the island outside of Manila, and I was anxious to pursue my search. After saying muchisimo gra- cias to my hospitable entertainer, I started for- ward with a change of military escort, planning to go to Carranglan, nearly due east in the same prov- ince. This would bring me into a mountainous country which promised some contrast to that part of my route already traversed. I found, however, there were no trails on a straight line over the in- tervening country, which consisted of small moun- tains of quite a rugged character. A detour to the south around the spur of the Caraballo range of mountains to the village of San Jose, ten miles distant, seemed to be the only pos- sible plan, and this course was decided upon. We now made better progress and with more comfort, and the scenery presented a more pleasing aspect, with numerous small mountain streams and a thickly wooded territory. This journey was a short one, and both animals and men had a long 4 THROUGH LUZON. night's rest in which to prepare for one of the hardest day's travel yet encountered. The same generous treatment was accorded at San Jose as at the other places visited, and no question was asked about passes. I had ample time to arrange an early start in the morning, which was important, as most of the horses were becoming worn out and were getting sore backs, which even the native remedy, cigar ashes, did not succeed in curing. I employed ten "bagadores," strong muscular men, who can carry more and travel faster than a horse, and for the sum of two Mexican dollars they engaged to go to Puncan, fifteen mountain miles distant, and return. This was at the rate of ten cents in gold for each man, and the trip consumed two days. Our long line of soldiers, servants and horses moved into the foothills during a heavy rain. It was of no avail to wait for a clear day at this season in this locality, and I knew it was less exhausting with the rain than in a hot sun. The course along the Pantabangan river was followed through heavy timber until the trail led up the mountain, where in places it was barely two feet wide, with rock obstructions, waterfalls and mires that seemed to have no end. Horses were useless, and every one dismounted, throwing bridle reins over the saddles, and permitting them to make the best of FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 49 their way, as we were doing on foot. The heavy rain had soaked through my mackintosh, making it too heavy to carry, and I trudged along all day soaked to my skin. In some places the angle of elevation in the rocks was so great that our horses slid back to the starting point a number of times after almost making the ascent, and when finally the top was reached we found the other side to be equally precipitous. The scenery was wild and grand but the fatigue great. Much of the trail was very indistinct and covered with bamboo and thick shrubbery, which, when parted and suddenly re- leased, struck one's face with stinging force. The route was only fifteen miles in length, but it led through ravines, rocks and mountain streams in- numerable, and on every side grew a wealth of hard wood timber that seemed sufficient for the whole world, and which, I believe, could be brought to the Rio Pampamga for transportation to Manila with great profit. Some pine was seen, but the principal species were the hard wood of the tropical climate the molave, narra, ebony, teak and numerous other varieties. Some of these trees were thirty-six inches in diameter and rose majestically to a height of one hundred feet with- out a limb, until capped by an umbrella-shaped bunch of leaves. This magnificent virgin forest of 50 THROUGH LUZON. extraordinary value, neglected completely and probably never penetrated by intelligent man, ex- acts unbounded admiration in passing, and will of- fer great inducements to the pioneers to convert them to profitable use when these beautifully wood- ed lands of the torrid zone are more widely known. These wild woods are the home of the jabali, or wild boar, whose presence was shown by the many holes in the ground, torn up by his tusks while in search of roots and herbs. If there is anything sweeter and more delicious than the meat of the wild boar roasted upon a spit in the open air be- fore a camp fire, I have yet to find it. Numerous venado (wild deer) are also found, and dried veni- son forms the richest and the principal flesh food of the natives. I venture to say that when the time comes to survey and locate this vast territory most of it will be found to pertain to ecclesiastical orders, as in other districts, and I fear there will be zones only described by degrees of latitude and longitude to which title will be protected by the United States. I dislike to pass on without a more minute de- scription of these woods, but others who will follow me will contribute their share to diffusing a knowl- edge of the material wealth and extent of this prov- ince, Neuva Ecija, which offers so much encour- FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 51 agement to inquiring young men of endurance, ability and progressiveness. All day we proceeded in a heavy rain without halt, and I many times wished our speed was as great as that of the "bagadores," the native pack- men, who seemed to have muscles of iron, and were never exhausted with heavy loads; but the native horses or ponies had to be favored, and at times the packmen were miles in advance of us until they reached the banks of the raging Panta^ bangan river where they waited for us. Then fol- lowed a long consultation with Don Tomas and others of the party as to the impossibility of cross- ing the stream and the necessity of making camp for the night. The natives all said it was foolhardy to attempt it. The stream was about 150 yards in width and came tearing down at the rate of seven knots an hour black with mud and most treach- erous looking. But without a word, and to the astonishment of the natives and soldiers, Sargent plunged his horse into the current and swam to the other side. This encouraged my men, and the bagadores proceeded further up the river and fin- ally made a crossing. I alone remained, and my horse was not inclined to carry me over as my weight was too great. Here the long coil of rope came into use. One end was fastened to a tree, 5* THROUGH LUZON. the other to be brought across the stream to where I stood. It was Sargent, of course, who attempted this, but while yet in the middle of the stream the cable parted at a knot and he disappeared beneath the torrent. I stood trembling with terror, fear- ing that was the last of him, but he came up spout- ing the muddy water from his mouth and reached the shore in safety. The "bagadores" now came over for me, two of them bracing my horse against the current, while one preceded the animal and an- other brought up the rear. Puncan was now promised us muy cerca, but we kept on and on, crossing branches of this stream at least fifteen times at deep fording places, large boulders at the bottom of each making it hazardous indeed. But the rugged scenery and enchanting waterfalls tumbling over precipices, filled my mind so interestingly that I quite forgot the troublesome part of the trail. At dusk the vil- lage coming into view, gladdened the hearts of man and beast for the hardest part of the whole journey was completed. I shall never forget the welcome of the local of- ficial, whose name has passed from my memory, nor how he offered all he had for our comfort. The horses were unsaddled and the outfit put into the one room that constituted the abode of the "Pres- FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 53 idente Local." The houses of these interior set- tlements are small and square, consisting of bam- boo frames thatched with palms and having nipa roofs. They are erected on hard wood posts about five feet from the wet ground, the space un- derneath being occupied by pigs, chickens and dogs. The building of a hut or house and the fitting out of a home among the natives offers none of the anxiety and expense encountered by us at home. The young man does it all in a short time, and alone, using only his "bolo" (a native weapon and domestic utensil resembling a long corn knife), to cut his bamboo and palm leaves, and securing the parts together with flexible strips of bamboo or ratan. The floor is likewise of bamboo strips, and any furniture besides a flat earthen space for a fire, a mat to sleep on, and a picture of the Virgin Mary is considered a piece of reckless extravagance. Eggs and chickens were found, together with rice for servants and escort, and the supper served from these seemed to me the best I had ever eaten. It was a difficult task and aggravating in the ex- treme to get the boys who attended to horses to gather enough palay and sacati (rice straw and grass) for food for them, and no amount of threats had any effect; the successful means being to go 54 THROUGH LUZON. with them and see that it is done. A proverb says "Que donde nace el Indio nace el bejuco" ("Where grows the ratan the native is born"), and a switch made of ratan is necessary if any obedience is to be had from the younger native boys. "It is found in all Philippine houses," says the Padra San Au- gustine, but it had escaped my notice. For the night all of us slept in one room, on flooring of bamboo strips, in our wet clothing and blankets. With breakfast over in the gray of the morning, the line was formed to start on the way to Carran- glan. The trail led across a small river, then into a long stretch of marshy flats, covered with large pine trees and thick underbrush of bamboo, open- ing into an extensive, rolling, grass covered plain ten miles in length and five in width. From the highest point of the hills we saw the range of mountains in verdure, with clouds and smoke in- termingling, and were told that on the very caps of these were the homes and haunts of the fero- cious Igorrotes. The kodak was snapped at this and the surrounding and beautifully green, undul- ating country, but, alas, the miserable instrument failed to produce any result when the plates were developed later. Wending our way over the rich soil in an open prairie, uncultivated and unoccupied, it struck me FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 55 as a particularly fine locality for sheep and cattle raising, where immense herds will no doubt dot its surface when security is assured the pastoral set- tler. At four o'clock in the afternoon we reached the banks of the Carranglan river, a view of which was sufficient to satisfy me that camping for the night was the only resource, though the town was but four miles from the opposite side. Before darkness set in guns were fired to attract the at- tention of the people, it being our object to obtain caribao to carry ourselves and baggage over. A native swam across the river and informed us that, on account of heavy rains in the mountains, the stream was rising rapidly, and that we must wait until morning, when animals would be furnished. Tents were pitched, and our followers very re- luctantly built for themselves a rude protection of bamboo and palm, fearful of spending the night so near a river infested with cayman (crocodiles). I shared my tent with Don Tomas, the major domo, but he could not be induced to sleep. During all of the long night he sat with his hands around his knees, watching the lighted candles and telling horrible stories of how the cayman would crawl up on the bank, lash a horse to death with his tail and then devour him. The other natives built huge fires to keep the reptiles away, shooting off guns 5 6 THROUGH LUZON. to give themselves courage while watching, and frequently imagined they saw the piercing eyes of the monsters slowly advancing towards their hid- ing place. But the night was passed without dis- aster or adventure. It had rained in torrents con- tinually and we were drenched to the skin, the wa- ter soaking the blankets put upon the bare ground, so much so that half our bodies were afloat most of the night, so that when morning came, and with it the caribao, we were heartily glad to be wel- comed by the head officials into a large dry and comfortable building made of brick and stone in the town of Carranglan. The houses now occu- pied by the local government were the conventos, formerly the habitation of the priests. Always roomy, strongly built, and adjoining the church, they together formed the only imposing structures in every town and village. The life of celibacy and ascetic self-denial imposed upon the priests was as far as possible carried out in these remote places, but they enjoyed all the amenities of ordinary hu- man existence. Each in his parish had a little less than a principality his word was a command. Nothing but the best was his in all things, and with a retinue of servants, well stocked stables, and the power to order anything done by the natives, he found ample occupation and compensation for FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 59 what otherwise would have been a weary lapse of time. Now these men are stripped of all their posses- sions and authority, and remain prisoners in the hands of the Filipinos, being carefully guarded, but housed and fed from what remains of the bounty of their captors. The curiosity of the natives increased as I pro- gressed further into the unbeaten tracks and upon our approach we were surrounded by a greater part of the men, women and children of the nearby population, always respectful, smiling, and with suave and gentle manners. Yet there was an ele- ment of young men, nearly all of whom were well dressed, whose looks were sinister and critical, and whose reserved and self-important manner and carriage was forbidding a class of indolents whose egoism seemed sublime, and who really believed they would supplant the Spaniard in all the fat offices under the flag of the Philippine Republic. Shortly after getting settled for the night, three of the company were taken with violent dysentery, due to the previous night's exposure in the rain. Every concern was manifested by our host for our welfare, and a native doctor was summoned. He was an old, white haired man, neatly dressed and possessed of great dignity. He questioned me in 4 60 THROUGH LUZON. Spanish as to the symptoms and probable cause of our illness and looked as wise and thoughtful as any respected practitioner in our own country. He procured and applied one kind of leaves to our heads and another sort to our stomachs, his pro- fessional pride seeming to be quite satisfied when learning that all were well again the next night. It would have been a pity to injure his pride by tell- ing him that quinine and laudanum had probably done more good than his medicine. Possibly his herbs did possess some remarkable qualities I would be the last one to deny this and am sorry that I felt in no mood to give his prescription an exclusive field in my ailment. A suffering man is not apt to be of an experimental turn of mind. Carranglan is a center of rice cultivation, and the preparation of the grain for local use and for sale is extensively carried on. The inhabitants were especially busy in this occupation while we were there, because of the pressing demand for rice which followed the resumption of its cultivation after the revolt against the Spanish government. All through this town, almost in every house, peo- ple wtre seen threshing rice in the customary way, with a long, hardwood pole, and a trough made of heavy timber. It was pleasing to hear the sound occasioned by this work far into the night, and, to FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 61 encourage the girls in their toil, a man had perched himself on a high seat and on a guitar played a tune with a rythm to suit the lifting and dropping of the threshing flail. Nothing was left undone by the "Presidente Lo- cal" and his under officials to furnish the choicest food the town was capable of producing, and to his credit and that of his assistants, it was extremely good, and given without any charge whatever. I know of no other country where a stranger can travel hundreds of miles and be entertained by the very best the country produces, where it is offered freely and cheerfully and with apologies for not having something better, and not be permitted to pay a cent in return. This, too, in a land devastat- ed by a revolution that had begun nearly three years previously. It is an example of generosity and goodness of heart I have never met with be- fore in my wanderings in various countries of the world, where it has always been my keenest en- joyment to travel on untrodden paths, far away from the hum of the busy turmoil and unceasing activity of a city's throng. After one day's delay I prepared for going North with a fresh lot of "bagadores"and soldiers more of the latter than usual, for fear of Iggoro- tes and also two extra horses. When saddled and 62 THROUGH LUZON. packed ready for moving, the church bells were rung and guns fired as a ''send-off," continuing until the train was lost to view in the densely wooded trails. Soon the beautiful valley of the Carranglan riv- er was reached, and up this we continued all morn- ing, resting at noon upon its banks, surrounded by rolling, grassy plains on every side. The thoughtfulness of my host had provided roast chicken put up in green palm leaves, and boiled beef, while I carried plenty of rice for the others connected with the expedition, which now con- sisted of twelve horses and twenty-four men all told. After lunch and a short siesta we moved on through this long stretch of beautiful virgin prairie uninhabited completely, although a place in which cattle would thrive immensely and never lack abundance of shade, water and grass. The trail here was decidedly superior to all the others trav- eled, but notwithstanding this the intensely hot and burning sun made our progress slow until late in the afternoon, when we stopped at the base of the Caraballo Sur, the range of mountains dividing the provinces of Nueva Ecija and Nueva Vizcaya, and forming the water shed for the rivers running North and South from this point. FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 63 No more enchanting location for a camp could be desired. A crystal, running brook tumbled down from the sides of the precipitous rocks, and the beauty of the surrounding verdure was en- hanced by the back ground afforded by the grand and rugged Caraballo mountains, which the next day challenged our energy and endurance to sur- mount. The few Spanish soldiers who had passed this way at various times had built and left behind them a tolerable good shelter of bamboo and nipa, which served the purpose of our party, and our tent was not required. A delicious supper of bacon, hard tack and tea was prepared, but the soldiers \vere well satisfied with moris queta (boiled rice) poured into their helmets, from which with their fingers they ate their fill. A Filipino soldier gets little sustenance other than rice, and failing this, succulent roots serve as a substitute, with such wild game as can be shot, so in this manner life is sustained in the mountains and foot-hills al- most indefinitely. The greatest dread was manifested by the na- tives of the Igorrotes, these wild men of the moun- tains, but I wished to know more about them, and from people who had seen them and knew their ways. Having camped so early and not feeling at all fatigued, I asked Don Tomas to relate to me 64 THROUGH LUZON. their modes of life and customs, which he gladly consented to do. How true his tale is I cannot say, though it agrees with the most of the legend- ary accounts I have read by Spanish writers. While the others were asleep, before rousing camp fire, and with pipes and cigarettes, I listened until the dying embers gave notice of the time to turn in for rest, to prepare for the arduous work of the morrow, I gleaned from Don Tomas the follow- ing interesting account of these much feared peo- ple: The Igorrotes* inhabit the mountain ranges of the Caraballos, live in rancherias, or small settle- ments, and have the fame of being the most cruel and war-like people of the archipelago, and have also been accused of cannibalism. They seldom come down to the foot hills and have little dealings with their more civilized neighbors in the plains and valleys. They are fierce and untamed, head hunting being a past time of the race. Though still maintaining this hideous and barbarous cus- tom, they have made great advances in civilized pursuits, isolated though they are, and the fertile portions of the mountains are under cultivation, *Igorrote is a generic term for various tribes of the same race. FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 65 producing rice, coffee, tobacco, famous oranges, guaves and many other articles for their own use, together with many fine horses and cattle. A very few of the tamer ones come down among the Ta- galos for the purpose of trading these products for cloth and trinkets, and are known as mansos. The Igorrotes mine gold and iron, which they work into armaments, instruments and ornaments. All their lances, spears, arrows and knives are made by themselves and decorated with gold. Their only article of clothing is a breech-clout for the men and a short skirt for the women, the children going to greater extremes. They are so accus- tomed to running and climbing in the mountains that any prolonged stay in the foothills and plains is disagreeable to them and injurious to their health. The bonds of family and marriage are recognized, but there is no religion other than superstitiousness. Two marriage ceremonies are in vogue, the one most frequently employed being that which in- volved the popular custom of hunting human heads. When the young Igorrote discovers flut- terings in his heart, he straightway gets his lance and leaves the mountains for the foothills. Choos- ing here some frequented trail of the traveler, he hides in the bushes or among the rocks in the vi- 66 THROUGH LUZON. cinity and awaits for the first grown man to pass. When his patience is rewarded by the approach of his prey, he rushes forth and casts his spear with unvarying accuracy and then flees back to the mountain. When he has given the victim what he considers sufficient time to die, he returns, severs the head from the body and proceeds in ecstacy with it to his people, who receive him with applause and admiration. The event is quickly made known throughout the whole village and eager crowds gather in curiosity to see to which marriageable girl he will present his gory human head, the en- sign of his prowess and proof of his affection. No doubt many a mother with marriageable daugh- ters weighs her chances, and many a father com- pares with contempt the small, weak head now brought forth with that which won for him his charming bride years ago but who is now bent, flat-footed and fat. The maiden receives the token with shyness and dignity, but never entertains any idea of refusing him. This is the license for the wildest revelry throughout the village and the indulgence of every excess. Cattle are killed, feasts prepared and wine flows freely. If the family of the bride is rich, one of the female servants is killed as a measure of the importance of the occasion. FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARRANGLAN. 67 The other form of marriage practiced is less hid- eous but less indulged. In this ceremony the young Igorrote who yearns for a bride must pro- cure her by his skill in use of the bow and arrow. The whole village turns out to witness his success or failure, the males all armed with spears. The bride-elect stands apart from the others, gayly adorned with jewels and laces, holding under one arm a palm leaf. The young man places himself in a position before her at some distance, and takes one shot at the leaf. This is a moment calculated to try the nerve of the bravest, for if. he misses his hit he hits his Miss, and all the men about him stand with spears poised in readiness to kill him if he fails to strike the mark. It speaks well for their skill and accuracy that a young Igorrote seldom meets death in this remarkable marriage ceremony. I discovered personally that these various tribes were cowards, and it was only necessary to fire a gun into the thick bushes along the road to deter them from attempting an attack. The native Fil- ippino lives in mortal dread of them, and the Span- iards, after several centuries, have done nothing towards bringing them under subjection because they feared to pursue them into their mountain fastnesses. Later on I met many of these hill tribes, and while splendidly built and as muscular 68 THROUGH LUZON. as oxen, there was a docility in their looks and ac- tions that convinced me, that, if properly handled, they would become pacific in a short time and de- velop into useful workers and tillers of the soil. It was only the vague legends of their ferocious hab- its that had made them seem so terrible My plan had originally been to cross the north- ern part of Luzon from east to west through their abiding places, which could not be carried out, however, because of opposition from the Tagalo official of that district, who said it was but courting death to appear among these millions of cannibals. According to all available statistics, there are but 60,000 of these Igorrotes distributed over an im- mense territory. I believe Don Tomas was completely saturated with these ideas and thoroughly believed in them, and the more horrible he could make these people appear, the more certainly he would be spared the fear of accompanying me, and thus, perhaps, save his precious head to carry back again upon his shoulders to Manila, instead of having it adorn the home of an Igorrote another trophy of the number of assassinations committed. When roads are built through these hidden and unknown regions they will be found to be the most desirable parts of the island the salubrious moun- tain air contributing in a great degree toward mak- ing them exceedingly healthful and productive. CHAPTER III. CROSSING THE CARABALLOS. THE day dawned clear and warm, though very early and hasty breakfast, the line was tempered by a light breeze, and after a formed for climbing the mountains. A now de- parted governor of the archipelago had cut a wide road through the rocks, but that had been done so long ago the soil had washed away, leaving masses of stone obstructions, very difficult to surmount. The "bagadores," each carrying about 60 pounds on their backs, glided along with ease and speed, much more so than the native horse without a load, although I discovered one of the natives, a follower of our party, mounted upon one of my horses, but he judiciously lost no time in dismount- ing at my command. I walked the entire distance, a hundred yards at a time, stopping for breath at each level spot. It was figured out how much weight a man weighing 210 pounds would lift while climbing to an elevation of 3297 feet, the 69 70 THROUGH LUZON. height of the pass over the Caraballo Mountains, and the result of this computation was gratifying and comforting to me in my exhausted condition. At the summit of this range the Spaniards had erected an estaca mento, or small fort, which com- manded an extended view of the surrounding hills and valleys, whose primitive, natural beauty and splendor I have seldom seen surpassed. It was here that the Filippinos attacked the Spanish garrison, crawling upon them until within a short distance, when the signal was given and a com- pany of native soldiers charged the fort with only their bolos, compelling the surrender of the Span- iards, with all their arms and ammunition. The elevation of this point was taken by barometer, showing 1005 metres, and another attempt at pho- tography was made, with the same disastrous re- sults as on a previous occasion. As I stood at this elevation and scanned the sur- rounding country, this region so seldom penetrat- ed by intelligent man, neglected, yet beautiful in its primitive grandure, made a picture of nature before which the tracings of a limner's hand, guided by a genius almost transcendent, would pall. Crag- gy, denuded rocks, a virgin forest tapestried with green, and a display of majestic beauty which one encounters only in the torrid zone. CROSSING THE CARABALLOS. 71 After a hasty lunch we proceeded down the mountain, meeting the first travelers in an oppo- site direction the ubiquitous caribao. I was filled with surprise at seeing these animals, with hoofs like oxen, picking their way among the boulders and ragged, stony paths. On both sides of us a magnificent forest scene presented itself to view, grand and towering trees, "monarchs of the woods," and thus it continued for many miles. Once over the barrier of the mountain range a more interesting region was promised. The peo- ple were in better circumstances and dinners and dances, with bands playing, were an almost daily occurrence, and our arrival was made the occasion for an elaborate display. This was encouraging, at least, and I must confess I had an eagerness to ac- cept and acknowledge every evidence of such hos- pitality. Slowly we paced along until the Aritao river lay at our feet, glittering along its banks in the sun- shine as though a mass of flowing, liquid gold. The natives declared it was gold; that the sands close to the water were filled with it. I dismounted and gathered up several handfuls of this soil, but upon examination found it to be but fine particles of sulphide of iron, so light that it floated upon the surface of the stream, shining and sparkling in 7 THROUGH LUZON. golden hued reflections as it passed. This river was forded without difficulty, such a thing as a bridge having not as yet been seen. Some later traveler in these parts may find the aspect changed good roads, bridges, or a railway carrying quan- tities of rice, sugar, tobacco, coffee and various forest products, when once the great wealth of this country is known and appreciated ; but it must be stirred up from its lethargy through the med- ium of rapid communication and transportation. The different dialects of the provinces may be found to be a slight hindrance to trade, but by fre- quent intermingling these different tongues will become blended into one homogeneous, intelli- ble language. Then the Igorrotes, Negritos, Ibil- aos, Ifugaos and a dozen other tribes will surrender their tyranny over the most fertile and attractive expanse of mountain and valley, to the onward march of intelligent modern civilization, thus opening up the extensive valleys of the Rio Grande and carrying a vast commerce to the sea at Aparri the coming rival of Manila in commercial ex- pansion. So much has been said of the mountain tribes, that I translate from the "Gia Official," published at Manila, a Spanish estimate of the more import- ant branches of these so-called aborigines : CROSSING THE CARABALLOS. 73 "The Ilongottes live in the mountains of the Si- erra Madre and Carrabello, between the provinces of Nueva Ecija, Principe, Isabela and Nueva Viz- caya. They have the fame of being the most cruel and warlike of all the archipelago, and are accused of being cannibals. They are generally tall and robust, with dark yellow skins, although there are many who present a more or less reddish shade. Their hair is abundant, black and plaited, the head large, the forehead vertical and wide, the eyes of an unquiet expression, the nose extended and the lips large. They are fond of adornment, but the most notable of their jewels is a collar or earrings which indicate the number of assassinations com- mitted. The most mountainous use only a cloth that passes between the thighs and winds over the waist. The more advanced and richer dress the same as those in the district of Principe, a blouse or shirt and trousers. The women wrap around their body a piece of cloth from the breast to the knees, but those of the principal families use a short petticoat and a kind of jacket or waist that is called a chimese. Men and women go always armed, though not within their own settlements or rancherias. They are traditional enemies of the Negritos, with whom they sustain continual fights, and also of the Christians, upon whom they make 74 THROUGH LUZON. war without quarter when they believe it possible with impunity. These individuals are very filthy and their habitations are adorned with the jaws of the wild boar, horns of the deer, and skulls of con- quered adversaries. It must not be forgotten in spite of the recognized ferocity of this race, some pueblos of the province of Nueva Vizcaya sustain a certain commerce that gives a base for hope of their reduction to civilization. Ifugaos. With this name is designated a large number of pueblos which take their denominations from the locality they inhabit. Their territory is comprised within Benguet, Lepanto, Bontoc, Isa- bela, and the Rio Magat. They have the reputa- tion of being cruel and ferocious and are often at war one rancheria with another, but above all are enemies of the mountainous Gaddanes of Isabela, which is no obsatcle to the Christian pueblos hav- ing often to lament the violence and murders of the Ifugaos. Some good qualities are, however, recognized ; honor, loyalty and punctiliousness, but most of them are thieves and traitors. They are not such savages as is generally believed, but work with assiduousness in the fields with such instru- ments as they possess, and in various tribes idle- ness is viewed with scorn and contempt. Adorn- ment is usually of skulls and human bones, and when this is impossible, with those of animals. CROSSING THE CARABALLOS. 77 Burik and Busaos. These form the principal group of pueblos, to which is given the name of Igorrotes of the Cordilleras. They are tall and robust, very well proportioned, of a gray skin, with black hair, cut short in front and left long at the back; eyes dark, expressive though some are in- clined. Large noses and mouths and not infre- quently a beard. The most notable adornment is being tattooed, and very artistically done by some individuals. Here appears for the first time the hatchet, called ligua, pertaining only to certain pueblos, an instrument known in the Visays and Mindanao, but never in the South of Luzon. In all the pueblos that use this arm they are terrible head-cutters and make their war-like expeditions to enrich themselves with skulls of their enemies. They never pardon offenses received, and each one of their chiefs keeps a minute account of the heads that have been taken by the neighboring ranch- erias, so that they can make reprisals. It is not believed, however, that all are so barbarous as is indicated by these customs. These pueblos have called attention to some of their industries and for the energy in the difficult agriculture of their wild territory, which can only produce certain articles, such as rice in places artificially watered. The ex- ploration of gold and copper, long before the dis- 5 ?8 THROUGH LUZON. covery of the Island, has called for notice by the skillful manner of its extraction in the mountains. These people are monogamists, but obtain divorces easily and marry again. Among these tribes have been recognized small idols called Anitos, and rep- resent, coarsely, a human figure seated with the head between the hands and elbows on the knees. Tinguitoanes. The different groups which most especially bear this name, constitute a race which from time past had the distinction of calling for general attention. They occupy a large part of the province of Abra, the mountains of Union and both Ilocos. Those of Abra who can be consid- ered the most general type, are well formed, with rather light skin, and black, abundant hair. They adorn themselves with tattoo and blacken their teeth. It is very original the combing of the hair by the women. It is separated in front by a string of glass beads, tied on top, falling backward to one side. The men also wear their hair long, tied in rolls on the crown of the head. Other adornments are strings of glass beads placed around the fore- arm of young female infants and are never re- moved. When the child is grown the wrist is com- pletely deformed. They are good agriculturalists, but not fond of this class of work, in which wo- men take a large part. They raise chickens, hogs, CROSSING THE CARABALLOS. 79 horses, carabao and cattle. The woods of the for- ests are worked, cloth woven, and metals made into different articles. With these and other products some commerce is carried on. Matrimony is gen- erally contracted by parents while the parties to it are mere children. Though they are monogam- ists, divorces are both used and abused. Being docile and with a preference for peace, they yet also take pleasure in carrying the head of an enemy to their habitation. Apayaos. These occupy the mountains which separate the provinces of Ilocos and Cagayan, and a large territory of the latter. They are tall and robust, eyes often inclined, hair long and teeth painted black. Their arms, especially the hatchet and shield, are distinct, but what most calls for re- mark are the habitations, which are clean, with floors of sawn boards and decorated with China dishes. Upon the walls are arms of their forefa- thers placed in elegant rattan racks, and from these hang a small decanter of liquor or brandy, in honor of the memory of the deceased. They are good agriculturalists and have a small trade in the pro- ducts of the soil, most important of which is the fine quality of tobacco. They are also terrible head- hunters and celebrate their triumphs with grand feasts. 8o THROUGH LUZON. Tagalos. This group is the most commonly named by many writers, who have generalized them as all Christian Malays of the Philippines. The true Tagalo inhabits the provinces of Bataan, Bulucan, Nueva Ecija, Morong, Laguna, Manila, Cavite, Batangas, Tayabas and the northern part of Mindoro. The Tagalo of Manila, who is most frequently described, constitutes some exception to others of the race on account of the friction and mixture with the more cultivated and heterogen- ious classes which live in the capital of the archipel- ago. In general the Tagalo is of medium stature and in color a light copper. The eyes are large and black, with pupil also large. The nose is wide and protruding; lips gross, teeth strong and no beard. The better classes dress a la Europea, and in cases where possible, wear fine jewelry. Those of the middle classes, the female part, have the same costume as previously described, a piece of cloth wrapped around the waist, falling to just be- low the knees. A white petticoat and blouse or chimese is also worn. The habitations are gener- ally one large room, built of bamboo and nipa with kitchen detached, and the floor raised above ground three or four feet to prevent dampness. The more well-to-do have houses built of hard CROSSING THE CARABALLOS. 81 wood, with roofs of corrugated iron and in many cases are luxuriously furnished in a European man- ner. In trade they are apt in all that requires natural ability. At hard work, at which they are occupied six or eight hours a day, they show no fatigue and are eager in accomplishing it. For some years many Tagalos have obtained academic degrees and in study show great memory. Their most com- mon food is vegetables, rice and fish, with occa- sionally fresh meat. , Their character is soft and submissive to super- iors, but arrogant to inferiors. Astute, suspicious, hospitable, vain, of clear perception, with volatile passions, though very fond of gambling, dancing and all kinds of fiestas. Many other tribes are known, but their import- ance is not sufficient as to call for a specially de- tailed description. CHAPTER IV. THE VALLEY OF THE RIO MAGAT. THE trail was hourly becoming better, with and our speed was greater and more sat- here and there stretches of a wagon road, isfactory. At one point the line was halted and a general hunt with shot guns and rifles was indulged in for ducks, which were flying in myriads over- head, but the grass and the cane were found too thick to penetrate even on horseback, to the ponds and the pursuit was abandoned. Just as the day was waning our hearts were glad- dened by the welcome sight of the evening sun sinking in the western sea, his horizontal rays fall- ing upon the village of Aritao, beautiful as a canvas by a master hand, silent and with wonted quiet- ness; lying snugly against the base of the hills, with the Rio Mizioli flowing gracefully at its front, presenting a picture of well-built houses of stone and brick, quite in contrast with the low nipa huts so common in the country passed through. 82 THE VALLEY OF THE RIO MAGAT. 83 The "Presidente Local," an elderly man of pleas- ing manners, received us with kindlier hospitality, if possible, than any of the preceding representa- tives of Aguinaldo's government. He led the way to the "convento," an immense building not yet quite completed, but showing the great hewn tim- bers of heavy hard wood of which it was construct- ed, the boards used for partitions giving an idea of the infinite amount of labor required in cutting and shaping them by hand and in bringing out the ex- quisitely fine texture of the wood. One can not cease marveling at the fabulous wealth to be ex- tracted from these timber lands in the Philippines when once properly exploited in a commercial way. Especially is this true of the pine, which in districts adjacent to this province grows to colossal height and prodigious dimensions. It may be interesting to know that the public edifices were all built by those who paid tribute to the government and this, under Spanish rule, was exacted as follows : Each head of a family must pay annually fifteen pesetas, or $3.00, and in addition gave forty days' work a year upon the roads and buildings, or paid a fine of $3.00 for his absence or neglect to do so. The other tributes embraced all inhabitants over sixteen years and under sixty, who paid half tribute, to which the sum of 25 cents a year to be given to the church, was added. 84 THROUGH LUZON. The church building, an old, weather-beaten edi- fice, erected in the sixteenth century, adjoined the "convento," and was occupied for a short time by the Filipino soldiers, but their superstitious fears that the saints might at night walk out of their wooden representations, deterred them from using it as a barracks. The Presidente and his official household neat- ly dressed and intelligent looking "naturales," as the Spaniards call them, were most assiduous in their attentions and supplied us with sweat meats, excellent coffee grown in the village, and great bunches of cigars. While we were at supper the local brass band gave us a serenade, and continued it long into the night. It appeared to me here, that the local govern- ment was fairly well organized and worked success- fully, and my entire party was carefully attended to by these representative men. In the early morn- ing the band reappeared and played some familiar waltz time pieces, and when we formed in line and continued our journey, they followed us for some distance out of town, the native soldiers firing their Remingtons as a parting salute, which, from mo- tives of prudence, I did not return, fearing all our ammunition might be required later on in dealing with the fearful Igorrotes, but who, I regret to THE VALLEY OF THE RIO MAGAT. 85 say, were not accommodating enough to furnish me with an opportunity for an encounter with them, as a study of a dead Igorrote would have been an interesting one. Through an almost impenetrable thicket the trail brought us to another river. The thoughtful- ness of the leading officials at Dupax had prompted him to send a number of natives with a chair to carry me across the stream, but the sturdy native pony I brought from Manila was equal to the oc- casion. Dupax is a newly built village containing two imposing edifices, the church and school house, and is the starting point of wide, level roads ex- tending for some miles beyond. The Presidente was ill and I made a personal call on him. I found him intelligent and agreeable, and his fine looking wife, pleasing in manner and very hospitable. After a short talk, the line was on a move for Bambang. The roads were wide and good, and on either side the fields were filled with women and girls standing ankle-deep in water, planting rice; separating the spears of the plants and putting them into the ground by hand. A large hill a few miles from the town retarded our progress not a little, but we were here met by a few natives on horseback sent out to lead the way. Soldiers on 86 THROUGH LUZON. horseback were stationed at the entrance to Bam- bang, who fired their rifles in our honor; the bells in the convents were rung and with banners flying we were escorted into the village. On reaching our stopping place and dismounting, Senor Aguin- aldo, a cousin of Don Emilio, the president of the republic, met us and threw his arms around me in the heartiest sort of welcome. He was a neat, bright, nervous young man in military dress ; and, though short in stature, he appeared quite officer- like in all his bearings, with his silver mounted sword and revolver captured Spanish trophies. Nothing remained for me but to accept his prof- fered kindness and remain there that night. It was a welcome rest for every member of the party, both man and beast. Senora Aguinaldo was presented, appearing in typical costume, and sweetly smiling her undoubt- ed delight at having us for her guest. In spite of a dark exterior, one can easily fathom a manifesta- tion of like or dislike on the face of a Filipino man or woman, and I do not remember having ever seen in the expression of the dark brown eyes of the female population other than the kindly suavi- ty of their gentle nature. Soon the village digni- taries made their call, mostly young men of inquir- ing minds and absorbing natures, one of whom, I THE VALLEY OF THE RIO MAGAT. 87 learned, was a school teacher and a most interest- ing man. His chief aim and wish in life was to gain more knowledge, and he expressed a great desire to visit the United States. During the en- joyable dinner which was served, these young men plunged deeply into a fund of questions which they had evidently prepared for us, and I was greatly pleased with this opportunity of informing them of the advantages to be derived from a wider view of the outside world in general. But to combat the egoism and self-sufficiency of this younger ele- ment is no easy task. As the dinner drew to a close, cigars in abund- ance were furnished. The local orchestra sta- tioned in the hall, struck up a pleasing tune and the soothing strains were heard until long after mid- night. The Filipino would rather furnish music than go to church, and is as handy with a violin as with a bolo. The beds to which we were shown were neat and clean and quite as good as those furnished by country hotels in the United States, so we rested well and comfortably, quite satisfied with this improvement over a tent and the bare ground. At ten o'clock the next morning, with bells ring- ing, fusilades of guns and an eager-looking popul- ace out in force to witness our departure, Senor 88 THROUGH LUZON. Aguinaldo, mounted on his handsome stallion, cov- ered with silver trappings, at the head of the pro- cession, led the way towards Bayombong, the cap- ital of the province of Nueva Vizcaya, several miles directly north. The roads were very good and the day was pleasant. As in other sections through which we had passed, on either side of the road, along the entire distance, were seen busy women and girls in the rice fields, working with apparent cheerfulness. The garrisons of the Spanish soldiers in the town throughout this portion of the island seemed to have all turned bandits. They robbed day and night, right and left, stealing all the valuable horses for their own use, killing the working animals the caribao burning villages where the popula- tion was too small to resist or unable to defend themselves, and destroying wherever possible all means of subsistence. The Filipino, though, is a resourceful being, and with only his bolo can re- tire into the forest, build for himself a shelter, and find sufficient food among the roots, leaves and herbs. Traps are made for all kinds of game deer, wild boar, and caribao de los montanas. Fire is easily produced by rubbing together two pieces of bamboo. But the most serious thing they have to contend with is the scarcity of salt. During my THE VALLEY OF THE RIO MAGAT. 89 trip I encountered the same difficulty, rinding an insufficient supply of this most useful and necessary condiment in every town. In conversation with Senor Aguinaldo, who was riding along side of me, I found he was the owner of much of the land then being cultivated, he hav- ing married a native girl whose father was wealthy and who conveniently died shortly after the mar- riage ceremony. He, Senor Aguinaldo, was not much concerned about any form of government so long as he was permitted, without molestation, to pursue the tilling of the soil with his 150 male and female employees. Notice had been sent by courier to Bayombong of our approaching, and as we reached the Rio Magat, usually a roaring torrent at this season, and about two miles from the town, I observed on the opposite bank a party of men on horseback await- ing our arrival. Men, saddles, and equipments were quickly loaded into pancas or narrow boats, and the turbulent stream was crossed without acci- dent, but our horses were forced to swim, and it was with great concern that I saw some of them go under the water several times. But the natives handled them with admirable skill and landed them on terra firma without damage or loss. 90 THROUGH LUZON. The "Presidente local," a young, bright-looking fellow, and his assistant, waited only until Aguinal- do's horse and my own animal had crossed the stream, and leaving the rest to follow us, we rode in a gallop into the town. The band played and the inhabitants turned out as we reined up and dis- mounted in front of the "Presidencia." I was asked up-stairs into a large reception room, fol- lowed shortly by the provincial and local officials, who took seats and chairs arranged in two rows about five feet apart, while I was placed at the head of the company. I observed that the young Presidente had nothing to say, but an officer in the Filipino uniform soon made it plain to me that he was the most important individual among them. He was a stout, finely-built young man, with a severe countenance, wearing an expression which betokened suspicion. After speaking a few words to some of the others in a low tone, he said to me : "Have you a pass to visit this town?" "I have not," I replied. "Who, then, has had the grace to invite you into this province?" he inquired. From his manner I regarded this question as tinged with more or less insolence, and with as much sarcasm as I could command in Spanish, I answered : THE VALLEY OF THE RIO MAGAT. 9' "I don't know." And I might have added, "And I don't care." He began walking around the room, while I consumed the time in looking over the members of the Junta of the province. One very dark in- dividual, almost black, I afterwards discovered, was a member of the Filipino Congress. In a few moments this gentleman seated himself beside me and said he desired to know how I had got this far without interference. He then made some cut- ting remarks to Aguinaldo, who sat close by, for permitting us to pass through his village of Bam- bang. Immediately after this talk, Aguinaldo, who was to remain with me, disappeared, and re- traced his steps homeward in haste and in great fear of the consequences of this official's displeas- ure. I then asked this man to await the arrival of my lieutenant, Sargent, whom, I informed him, had been to see Don Emilio Aguinaldo personally, at Malolos, and he would explain the matter, to which assent was given ; but even this explanation was unsatisfactory, and as there was a telegraph line from this place to Aparri, where the colonel of this military zone was located, no time was lost in dispatching messages. Notwithstanding this unpleasantness we were served with a substantial dinner and invited for a 92 THROUGH LUZON. siesta to the home of Senor Ariola, a gentleman in every sense, well educated, a lawyer and the prin- cipal member of the Junta. Later in the after- noon we were called for chocolate and cakes, both most excellent and served in dainty china cups. As the sun was sinking low in the west I noticed seven priests, robed in white, taking a pasear in front of the cathedral, and as the vesper bell sound- ed, each one devoutly knelt and crossed himself, praying, no doubt, for freedom, for they were mili- tary prisoners in the hands of their own parishion- ers. It was said that these friars had a large quan- tity of guns and ammunition in their possession, which was captured by the insurgents, and for this reason they would be considered prisoners of war. I am quite sure they were being well treated and fed as well as could be under the condition then existing. It was not the church, per se, that the Fliipino opposed, but the individual who adminis- tered its rites, and I hesitate to believe as true the tales told me as to the cause of this antagonism on the part of the Filipinos for these now helpless and imprisoned representatives of the Church Univer- sal. A NICtiRITO. CHAPTER V. FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. BAYOMBONG is an attractive place of con- siderable dimensions. Its houses are sub- stantially built of brick and stone, and its streets, though in some places overgrown with rank grass, are wide and clean. The surrounding country is fair to look upon, and only needs to be "tickled with the hoe to laugh with the harvest." Some- thing inspiring must be infused into the native mind to arouse them to effort. As a rule they love fine clothes, comfortable houses and handsome decorations in gold and silver; but heretofore they had been ingeniously relieved of the most of the fruits of their labor and toil, without reward, for the maintenance of others in luxurious idleness. Inevitably this would result in discontent and breed habits of slovenly indolence. Had the money of which they had been despoiled through excessive taxation been expended in building up and devel- oping the resources of the country, and had the 6 95 96 THROUGH LUZON. benefits of this industrial expansion been given to those to whom it properly belonged, it would have furnished an incentive for the application of native talent, which could not have resulted otherwise than in producing a race of manly, loyal, self-re- specting citizens. Senor Ariola was one of the finest type of the Filipino man whom I had ever had the pleasure of meeting. His house was well furnished ; he had a good library of rare books; a sala or drawing room, decorated with artistic taste; stained glass parti- tions throughout the hall, and a dining room sup- plied with choice linen and the best of china. The garden was filled with beautiful flowers and the walks lined with coffee and cocoa trees in bearing. A Jersey cow furnished the family with cream, and the whole aspect of the surroundings bespoke com- fort and happiness. Senora Ariola was unceasing in her attentions, and, while not seating herself with us at the table, stood near to direct the serv- ants in waiting. The viands were all of the best, properly cooked and elegantly served, and we ate the first wheat bread we had tasted since leaving Manila. The coffee from the fields owned by our host was most delicious, especially with cream, and his sherry and port wines revealed their age and choice vintage. Cigars in these parts are always plentiful and of fine quality. FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. 97 Upon retiring to the Sala we found some mem- bers of the local government awaiting us, among whom was the telegraph operator, who informed me that no reply had been received to the message sent to Colonel Tirano. This Filipino was consid- ered a competent operator, but he complained bit- terly of the manner in which he was being paid for his services under the Spanish regime. He was then receiving seventy-five Mexican dollars a month, he said, while the Spanish official desig- nated to oversee this work commanded $150 for the same period. It was so in all other official em- ployment. As an instance: A shoemaker who could scarcely read or write for political reasons was assigned to and had charge of a post at a large salary, while the Filipino under him, who did all the work, was paid but a trifle in comparison. It is amazing to see how well these natives can read and write when their limited opportunities for learning are considered. Large numbers of them have at one time or other been attached to some official post, so that, when their oppressors were overthrown, they were prepared to supplant them in office, and in many instances they conducted the affairs of state with a greater degree of efficiency than was displayed by their Spanish predecessors. 98 THROUGH LUZON. I informed Senor Ariola that I was most anxious to proceed on my journey the following morning, and called his attention to the fact that until the present instance I had met with no interference be- cause of my failure to procure a pass. I also told him that such a condition was unknown in the United States, and foreigners were free to go and come at will and if I were delayed I must consider it a serious commentary upon his form of govern- ment, which I would very much regret to be obliged to do. There was no war existing and none in contemplation ; and he promised his best efforts for our early departure. The conversation continued until nearly mid- night, when chocolate and wine were served in the dining room. The lieutenant of our escort entered the room and joined us, and before he was aware of it we had inveigled him into a very modest descrip- tion of his attack and capture of the Spanish garri- son at San Isidro, the capital of the province of Nueva Ecija. His face was badly scarred, show- ing personal encounter with his antagonists. The manner in which the capture of so large a body of well-armed Spaniards was accomplished was well- nigh incredible, but his candor and ingenuous man- ner impressed me deeply. A party consisting of only nine insurgents had posted themselves around FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. 99 the fortifications of San Isidro, and during the whole night kept up an incessant fire upon the enemy from their different locations, creating the impression among the Spaniards that they were being attacked in great force. The frightened garrison and the guardia civil the native soldiers attached thereto hastily retired behind the walls of the fort for safety. In the early morning the besiegers were reinforced, and with flourishing "bolos" and wild yells they attacked the fort, re- ceiving assistance from some of the natives within. The Spaniards, almost paralyzed with fear, stam- peded and then surrendered, and a large quantity of guns, small arms and ammunition were secured by the insurgents. Many feats of daring were re- counted, in which I was so absorbed as to be- come oblivious to the flight of time until the strik- ing of two o'clock recalled me to the present and reminded me that I should have been abed hours before. The military official who had shown such ill- feeling the day before, appeared early the next morning, and his aspect had completely changed, for we had obtained permission to continue our journey. With him was the governor of the prov- ince, Senor Sebastian Panganiban, an elderly man of fine appearance, who was to accompany us a ioo THROUGH LUZON. few miles to his home, Solano. The train was soon formed in line, and with expressions of thanks to our host we moved out of Bayombong with kind- est wishes, our entertainment by Senor Ariola hav- ing overcome any feeling of resentment for the other members of the Junta. As I passed around his house I saw the wife of Senor Ariola leaning out of the window, to whom I said, lifting my slouch hat: "Adios, Senora," to which, with a cheerful smile she replied, "Adios." Very good roads were encountered most of the way to Solano. The governor general drove in his quiles, a rather pretentious sort of a carriage, and led the way to his home, where he halted long enough to introduce me to his wife and family, who insisted upon our remaining to lunch ; but I was forced to decline in order to reach Bagabag that night. The governor filled our pockets with some good cigars and offered us some good gin, which is the only foreign liquor found in the provinces. He had quite a number of Igorrotes, mansos, male and female, threshing rice on the lower floor of his building. These people were interesting from an ethnological point of view, even though they gave no evidence of fierceness. The governor general said they were docile and submissive, good work- FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. 101 ers and harmless. But I noticed that disease had already attacked them and of such a nature that their destruction sooner or later was certain. An incident which shows the means adopted by the Spanish officials to mislead the people at home, was the capture of a band of Igorrotes and the exhibition at Barcelona, Spain, as specimens of the class of people inhabiting these regions, and which produced serious resentment in the minds of the Tagalos and the intelligent people of Manila. The country lying between Solano and Bagabag was an undulating, fertile stretch of about eight miles, but our speed was rendered slow by cane brakes and thickets. The road denied, crossing small streams with steep banks which were most difficult of ascent, the horses being unable to gain a foothold preparatory to making a climb. One of our old bagadores, finding himself separated from the others, raised such a howl, the live chickens which he carried across his shoulders adding to the wail, that I thought horses, men and outfit had been lost in the river. With the corporal of the guard I turned back, crossed the river again and waited until the old man emerged from the brush. The corporal was so angry that he jabbed his bayo- net into the man's stomach, but not to a sufficient depth to cause a serious wound. 102 THROUGH LUZON. Late in the afternoon of October 22, we filed in- to Bagabag and were met by the leading official, who escorted us to his domicile. Here was com- fort enough for two weary Americans who had be- come inured to travel through hedges and hills and water ways through Northern Luzon. The customary good dinner was prepared, chick- ens, morisquita bread and some rare wine. Later we were asked to listen to the rendition of some music at the home of a prominent resident of the village, and to indulge in a baile. I was not bent on dancing in my wet shoes, but nevertheless ac- cepted the invitation, and was well repaid. A fine piano stood in the sala, and seated about the room were about a dozen of the handsomest senoritas of the place, who, with their embroidered pina dresses, and graceful manners, added to the beauty of the scene. I was delighted and surprised to find so many accomplished performers among the young women in this remote locality, and won- dered at seeing a piano that must have been car- ried over mountain chains in reaching here. It but proves the great interest the Filipino takes in music. The usual apologies were offered for not having better means of entertainment in food, but this was always responded to by our say- ing we were glad, indeed, to fare so well, which was true. FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. 103 In discussing our trip for the following day, I was told that only a few days previously a woman had been murdered by the Igorrotes, and, that dur- ing the last few weeks fully twenty persons had met death along this trail the hot-bed of the sav- ages of this district. With fear for our safety, these men considered it unwise to run the risk, but Sargent invited rather than shirked the dangers, and his courage inspired the officials into making preparations that would frustrate any attempt of the Igorrotes to attack us. A party of soldiers was gathered together, and" many native followers joined our expedition to assist in our protection. The Rio Magat was very much swollen, but had to be crossed a short distance from the starting point. This was done on bancas made of bamboo poles lashed together in a large bundle a shaky, treacherous contrivance, which the least motion to one side or the other would overturn and plunge the passengers into the water, and perhaps furnish a meal for the numerous alligators. When this stream had been crossed in safety our line was formed, with ourselves and soldiers in front and the loaded animals in the rear, and a start made over a very indistinct trail, along which the Igor- rotes were supposed to be in hiding, but by dis- charging our guns into the clumps of bushes and 104 THROUGH LUZON. long grass, we either intimidated them or they were elsewheres. Always on the lookout we pur- sued our way to Diadi, an estacamento on the hills, where a company of Filipino soldiers was stationed to guard the roads, and here a halt was made for lunch. This outpost commanded a view of the surrounding country, which was one of exquisite grandeur. Green plains were seen to stretch for miles to the north, irregularly divided by winding streams. Densely wooded mountains seem to rest against the sky, and only the curling smoke of Igorrote rancherias betrayed the fact that human life had ever disturbed the quietness of this garden spot in the valley of Rio Grande. While traversing this attractive country, which offers so much to tempt the husbandman, we met with no sign of life until nearing the village of Cor- don, where could be seen native hunters after deer and caribao de los mountanas. This latter animal furnishes a fine quality of meat and has a peculiar, instinctive trait in being the only denizen of the forest that can protect itself against the boa con- srictors which are somewhat numerous in these parts. When the caribao is pounced upon by a boa and the reptile has wrapped itself around the body for the squeezing process of killing the ani- mal, the caribao slowly draws in its sides until the FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. 105 boa has his grip fixed securely and begins to tight- en up, when suddenly the caribao inflates his lungs to their fullest, spreads his sides, tearing the verte- brae of the reptile into a thousand pieces. We reached Cordon in the late afternoon, the trail having improved. There had been no rain and just clouds enough to shield the sun, which is a great boon to the traveler in a tropical zone. I was given good accommodation for men and horses and brought face to face with the fact that much goodness of heart is often found in the wilds of Luzon. The village was ransacked for the best of food, and the cooking of it was well done. No- tice was sent out by our entertainers to local talent to be present and furnish amusement for us after the dinner. Four young girls, gaily attired, ap- peared with their castanets to dance and sing for the Americans, which they did with grace and with cultivated step. Of course it was a Spanish cus- tom, but one would not expect to find such appar- ently well trained bailarinas in the remote fast- nesses of an undeveloped country. How willing they were to sing and dance for our pleasure was shown by their continuing to do so until a regard for their weariness made further demand unkind. Our progress so far had been made without ser- ious obstruction of any kind, and it appeared as io6 THROUGH LUZON. though we would accomplish our aim with less dis- comfort and opposition than even the most san- guine had considered possible. Conditions changed however, on the following day. With the morn- ing came a drizzling rain, but there was no post- ponement of our journey on account of the weath- er, for we were beginning to feel quite at home with water over, under and around us, and shortly after an early start, we passed through the village of Carig to the river, crossing that easily and find- ing a fairly good road. Our baggage had been loaded on two-wheeled carts drawn by caribao, and sent on an hour ahead. A short distance away, on the opposite side of the river, we observed two military men riding at full speed, and as they ap- proached they commanded us to halt. The spokes- man was Simon A. Villa, Commandante Militar of the zone of the province of Isabela, and his com- panion, B. Ventura Guzam, lieutenant and aid to the former. They had ridden night and day from Ilagan in order to intercept, and turn us back to Carig. The first question asked was about passes, and our explanation being unsatisfactory, Senor Villa said he had orders from Colonel Tirano, the commander of Northern Luzon, to stop us at Carig where communication would be opened with Aguinaldo to ascertain if we should be allowed to FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. 107 proceed. I requested permission to send the carts ahead to Echague that night, there to await us; but in spite of all our reasoning Villa remained in- flexible and denied us even this small favor, so we had no alternative but to retrace our steps, dis- gusted and filled to overflowing with wrath, sam- ples of which were indiscriminately showered upon these two officers without fear, favor or hope of liberty. It was now a question of diplomacy as to whether we should endure the humilation of turn- ing our backs upon our fondest hopes and again crossing the Carabello mountains, or proceed along the route we had mapped out. Our feelings towards Senor Villa were not of the most pleasant kind, and these must be overcome, as he had the power to do with us as suited his whim or fancy. He was domineering almost to brutality to his own people, but extended to us all the comfort possible in the way of food, and settled us in the convento, where, practically under arrest, we were to remain for many days. The convento was a large, well-built structure, having good bed rooms and a dining room. The library contained all the records of the parish, be- sides many old and valuable books that no doubt had afforded the padre many pleasant hours of pro- fitable occupation. I looked these through during log THROUGH LUZON. the first few days, and now regret that I did not bring some of them with me, which were offered, but which I declined on account of their additional weight to our baggage. Carig was a telegraph station which Senor Villa used to communicate with Colonel Tirano at Apar- ri. The first two days were spent quietly awaiting an answer, but none coming, I induced Don Tom- as to interview the telegraphista and find out how Colonel Tirano would reach Aguinaldo, then at San Fernando. He came back with the information that a message would be sent to Bayombong and from there across the mountains by courier to Dagupan, thence by wire to San Fernando, and we could expect a reply in about three days. This I knew to be impossible ; it was but a malicious sub- terfuge to deceive us. Sargent by this time was becoming impatient, and I feared his anxiety to proceed would endanger the great object I had in view, and urged him to control his feelings for a few days more, assuring him that we must event- ually succeed, at all hazards, in accomplishing the undertaking. The next day, after much persua- sion, Villa consented to our telegraphing to Col. Tirano, at our own expense, for permission to pro- ceed as far as I lagan and await a reply from Aguin- aldo there. During these days of waiting, I was FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. 109 shown a message from Colonel Tirano to Villa, saying that he had just received twenty thousand stand of arms and ammunition, and would send two thousand of them to Carig. To the credit of Villa and Guzman I must say they did all things possible to make our detention agreeable. The day preceding our final departure a wild boar hunt in the near-by hills was planned, Villa giving command to all villagers to assemble with horses, dogs and spears, and to act as beaters for the hunt. It was a fine array that gathered around the convento in the early morning; some fifteen men on horseback, each having a pack of five hounds and carrying spears ten feet long, made of bamboo poles, ironed at both ends, one of which was for the purpose of holding it upright by sticking it into the ground. I was delighted with their appearance and more than pleased with the prospect of bringing to death the ferocious boar. There were also caribao de las montanas and deer in the woods, any of which offered sport enough to make us forget that we were held in bondage. The path to the hills took us over a wide expanse of open grassy country, at that time covered as with a blanket of myriads of locusts. It was nearly noon before the men had posted us in good locations at the opening of a ravine close to "o THROUGH LUZON. the base of the mountains, in order to sight the big game driven out by the hounds. The sun was beaming in brilliancy, but what did it matter to one keenly waiting for the first sight of a boar wild, fierce-eyed, white tusked surprised and be- wildered at seeing his mortal enemy, man, as he rushed from the forest? Presently the welcome and thrilling howl of doz- ens of hounds in the distant woods came nearer and nearer, my nerves stringing up tighter and tighter with every second until I fancied I would soon become helpless in my defense against the boar's attack. As I peered intently at the spot from which I expected would emerge this grand stampede, I took up my Winchester, summoning all the reserve courage in my power for a fatal shot, when there suddenly came into full view, not a boar, but a deer. Filled with disgust, I fired at four hundred yards' distance, but failed to bag my game. Hours were passed with only now and then a deer in sight, and getting weary of this we set off for camp, to be on hand early on the following morning. But Senor Villa had by this time be- come so displeased with the food we had been eat- ing while on the road and so disgusted at the poor prospect of obtaining fresh game, that we pulled A SPANISH MESTIZA. (Half Spanish Half Native.; FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. 113 up stakes and returned to town. Later the men whom we left behind brought in two young boar, which they had speared, and these furnished us with that delicious meat for the remainder of our stay at Carig. A pleasant greeting was awaiting our return in the following telegram from Colonel Tirano : "Telegram. "A Sres. Wilcox, Sargent, Carig. "Carig de Isabela Num. 254. Palabras 18 Depos- itada el 30 Octe, 1898, a las 9.30 m. "Coronel : "Recibi telegrama. Saludadoles carinosamente. Autorized Sr. Villa acompana a ustedes bajada Ila- gan. "Recibide de Ilagan dia 31, a las H-57 m. El. Official." "I salute you affectionately, and authorize Villa to accompany you down to Ilagan." After seven days' detention at Carig I was more than gratified at the prospect of our release, and entered with enthusiasm into the preparation for continuing on to Ilagan, our men expressing the same degree of satisfaction. The river at Carig had been rising for the past few days, making it im- possible to cross except on balsas. On these rafts our saddles and other equipments were ferried H4 THROUGH LUZON. over, the horses being compelled to swim. One of the soldiers of the escort had the temerity to try his horse with the saddle on, and when half way across the beast went under and disappeared in the swirling current, the soldier escaping by reaching shallow; water. The natives avowed the loss of the horse was due to alligators. The country lying between Carig and Echagtte was most difficult to traverse, being very low, with numerous mires and deep, sticky mud. I rode alongside of Villa most of the day, his conversation relating mainly to his experiences in the revolution against the Spaniards. His father was a promi- nent Tagalo in Manila, possessed of much property and a large account in the Hong Kong & Shang- hai Bank. The Spanish authorities had thrown him into prison as a conspirator, where he re- mained for some time. At last he was offered lib- erty on condition that he sign a check for the full amount of his credit at the bank. This check was drawn out and endorsed by the unhappy prisoner, but instead of granting him his freedom he was shot within the walls of old Manila and his entire property confiscated. Villa told me his mother and sister were in Manila, but just where he did not know, nor how they were faring. I promised to hunt them up on my return and report to him, FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. "5 but he said it was useless, as no letter would be likely to ever reach him. After a most fatiguing journey we reached the abode of the military com- mander at Echague, who was very courteous and hospitable, and had already made arrangements for boats to carry us down the Rio Grande river the turbulent, treacherous but magnificent waterway that drains the entire valley of the northern and eastern half of the Island of Luzon. Echague is one of the great tobacco depots of the province of Isabela, and several German mer- chants who reside there, purchase the leaf for the European market. This plant thrives well in the soil about here, and better and more stable politi- cal conditions, which are certain to come, will dis- pel the timidity of capital and enormously increase its production. What possibilities there are for this veritable Eden of Luzon can hardly be imag- ined. Sufficient people are here to treble the pro- duction, and they will be found to be industrious enough when equitable taxation is restored and encouragement given them to toil. Our thoughtful host, for the trip down the river, provided us with boiled chicken, put up in green palm leaves, and boiled rice and venison enclosed in the same fresh covering. We had six oarsmen and a helmsman to keep the panca out of whirl- "6 THROUGH LUZON. pools, and thus equipped the boat shoved into the current. I sent our servants and horses over land and they continued along the banks of the Rio Grande until we reached the sea at Aparri, 120 miles to the north. The Rio Grande de Cagayan, for over 200 miles is available for native boats in carrying traffic to the seaport of Aparri, and while it requires but four days to navigate its entire length down stream weeks are consumed in returning against the rapid flow of water. Fortunately the day was a bright one, rilling the passing scenes with interest. Here and there were alligators stretched out upon the banks, at which we frequently shot with our rifles. Monkeys with- out number infested the trees, disporting them- selves as only monkeys can, assuming many amusing attitudes and performing numerous high- ly creditable acrobatic feats. Many fishermen had their nets out, and thousands of women were wash- ing clothes and bathing in the discolored waters. At times the river widened to a great expanse, then, closing in at a narrow gap, the immense body of water forced its way with such speed that we were literally lifted up and shot through the chan- nel as though fired from a ten-inch gun. FROM BAYOMBONG TO CARIG. "7 Only by the most dexterous handling of our craft did we escape wreck and certain death in these most perilous moments. Once we were on the point of drifting into a whirlpool, when Villa commanded the oarsmen to pull for our dear lives and their own, directing their movements in a manner which proved his skill and ability in hand- ling one of these boats was at least equal to that of the Filipino boatmen themselves. The excite- ment attending the passage of this waterway filled me at times with pleasure and fear, and I congrat- ulated our party upon reaching Ilagan in the early evening without mishap. CHAPTER VI. ILAGAN THE CAPITAL OF ISABELA. OUR arrival at the capital of the province of Isabela was welcomed by manifestations of the warmest hospitality. Ilagan for the time being was the home of both Villa and Guzman, but we were taken to the house of Senor Casarola, the acting Presidente Local, and a man of considerable wealth. The principal officials of the town made calls and appeared happy to meet us and were followed later on by many of the wives of these men, accompan- ied by Senorita Casarola, all finely dressed in gowns of silk and pina that would have excited the envy of many of the women of our own country. Senorita Casarola played on the piano for us, and the Filipino national hymn was sung by a small boy, the whole company joining in the refrain. Villa being now on his own stamping ground, wished to make amends for our reluctant and tire- some detention at Carig by providing several fies- 118 ILAGAN THE CAPITAL OF ISABELA. 119 tas during our stay, which offered many possibili- ties. The first was a baile, in the evening, and he had his men spread the news among the social set and ordered the local band to produce its choicest selections. The hall used was the convento, the floor of which was very good, and all the rooms were decorated with palms and bamboo in Filipino festive manner. An unusually good dinner pre- ceded the dance, and on being escorted to the hall we found it well filled with attractively dressed women in silks and pina, and with men noticeably well attired in low-cut black coats, white linen shirts, collars and ties, some of them wearing pat- ent leather shoes. During the introductions I felt a serious regret at not having my dress suit with me, to be more in keeping with my surroundings. In the opening dance I had the honor of being the partner of Senorita Casarola, the daughter of our host and the belle of the ball. Her waltzing 1 was exquisite, for which I complimented her. I was critical enough to notice her costume of pink silk, with a long train embroidered in flowers, a waist of most delicate pina, and white kid slippers and gloves, the whole tastefully decorated with large and beautiful diamonds. Several of the oth- er women presented an appearance that elicited my admiration when I considered that this locality 120 THROUGH LUZON. was deep in the interior of a country where such taste and culture was supposed to be unknown. The rigodon, lancers and waltz followed in quick succession until twelve o'clock, when supper was spread. All the young women, some fifty in num- ber, were seated at one long table, I being per- suaded to preside at the head as a mark of especial favor. The meal did not differ much from those usually served on such occasions, and the table furnishings were in good form and proper in every respect. The conversation proceeded in a light and happy vein, and I noticed a degree of reserve and modesty among these young women that man- ifested a truly noble feminimity. The intermission during supper was a long one, in order to allow the male portion of the assembly sufficient time to fill themselves with the good things on the table, after which the dance was resumed. Some exhibi- tions of native dancing were given, the movements displaying grace and long practice. One of the company, a woman with two pretty young daugh- ters, almost white, was pointed out to me as the wife of a Spanish officer who had been on duty in Ilagan, but who had abandoned them and left for Spain. This was given to me with great contempt and disgust for Spaniards in general in Luzon. At three o'clock in the morning the ball came to an ILAGAN THE CAPITAL OF ISABELA. 121 end and we returned to our host filled with pleas- ant thoughts of the entertainment. Ilagan is possessed of much wealth, due almost exclusively to its tobacco interests, some three mil- lion of dollars being annually paid for the product. The evidence of the good use of this money is shown in the many fine buildings and merchant shops, among which are many Chinese establish- ments. The farther north one travels in Luzon, the better the class of natives becomes, and the lighter their color. The buildings also show a marked improvement; with roofs of corrugated iron and either brick or stone walls. Among the residents of Ilagan was a German who claimed American citizenship at one time and German at another, to suit his convenience, but he never pre- sented himself to us nor did we hunt him up. He was said to be the only English-speaking man in the town. The next morning gave us an oppor- tunity of walking about the streets of the town and visiting some of the Chinese shops, where small purchases were made. Ilagan is situated on an Island, the only ap- proach being by boat. The natives encountered but feeble resistance from the Spanish garrison at the time of its capture, and consider themselves secure from other sources of danger. From the '22 THROUGH LUZON. window of our abode we saw companies of small boys drilling with wooden guns, full of enthusiasm for war, but with whom they did not then know. The officer in charge was diligent and exacting and encouraged the boys to their utmost capacity. Another sight which I watched with a selfish in- terest was the cooking of a young jabali for dinner. The burning and sizzling of this fine animal on the spit whetted my appetite to a keen edge, and as the color gradually assumed a tempting brown hue and the savory fumes reached my nostrils, I knew it would be good. Senor Casarola had three cooks a Chinaman, a Spaniard, and a native. Between them the dishes prepared were complete in every detail. At every meal during our stay twelve men sat down, includ- ing a native and Spanish priest, the two Guzmans, Villa and ourselves. Apologies from the host for not furnishing something better are always in or- der, but on this occasion, with wild boar meat, ven- ison, beef, bread, potatoes, chocolate and coffee, and canned goods in profusion before me, I could not discover the necessity for such regrets. For the evening a play at the theatre was ar- ranged, to which we had to be conducted by a body guard, as it had been rumored that some of the Spanish prisoners had planned to kill us. The ILAGAN THE CAPITAL OF ISABELA. 123 guard was posted at the entrance to the building while the drama was being produced within. It was in Spanish and was put upon the stage with all the required costumes, the band interspersing music at proper points. The play was commenda- bly acted, Senorita Casarola taking the leading role. This particular play had been rendered at a fiesta some days previously, and was repeated for our especial delight. The alleged assassins failed to carry out their designs. The next day was clear but hot, and Villa asked me if I would object to having some of their pris- oners paraded in front of our quarters. I was in- deed desirous of seeing them and noting their con- dition. An orderly was sent to march out the eighty-four Spanish priests who formed a part of them. As they were lined up on the public high- way, the appearance of these men, of all ages from seventy down to thirty, invoked my sympathy. Shorn of power, neglected as to dress and unshav- en, they stood before us mute and dejected look- ing, with prayer books in hand submissive mar- tyrs to their faith. Each had shortly before, in his own parish, been the supreme master, never dreaming of such a transformation as had so abruptly taken place. Was it retribution, or the mysterious workings of the inscrutible Almighty? 24 THROUGH LUZON. The sun was intensely fierce, but it seemed to shine with softened rays upon these silent, devoted creatures, appearing to create the apotheosis of a spiritual man in the depths of despair. Villa pointed to one of the prisoners and gave orders to have him brought up to our room. He was not a particularly prepossessing man, and he stood be- fore us, charged by Villa with offenses that seemed incredible. I suggested to Villa the propriety of returning these men to their quarters, which he did, and after they had gone, he ordered brought in the former Spanish governor of the province, Don Jose Perez, also a prisoner. I shook hands with him (which Sargent would not do), and made inquiries as to the causes leading up to the revolution, which, for lack of a better reason, he ascribed to the Chinese. Villa said : "This is the man who robbed this province of $25,000 during the last year of his of- fice." This the ex-governor denied. I then said to him : "You are the man who had planned to kill us last night, are you not?" I had hoped he would confirm my surmise in order that I could suggest the expediency of his going into the camp with us, selecting his own weapons and meeting either Sargent or myself fairly. I knew Sargent was quite handy with the ILAGAN THE CAPITAL OF ISABELA. 125 sword, while with any other weapon I would stand a fair show, so that in any selection he might make we had him cornered. But he was a coward and declined to take the hint and his sinister eyes showed that he was at his best when stabbing some one from the rear in the dark. These prisoners were a great expense upon the people of the province. I was told that it cost $2,000 a month to feed them alone, and, so far as I could judge, I believe they were well provided for. The native language of Ilagan is mostly the Ibanag dialect, and the wife of our host could only converse in that tongue, although Don Tomas was able to make himself understood in Tagalog. A large majority of the population of the northern provinces have a local dialect peculiar to the dis- trict in which they live, due to the lack of frequent intermingling and proper communications be- tween the towns. We desired to continue our journey from Ilagan to Tuguegarao and from that point across the mountains to the western coast. This request was wired by Senor Villa to Colonel Tirona at Aparri, in anticipation that he would provide us with a large military escort. That officer replied that it would not be possible to make the proposed trip 126 THROUGH LUZON. at this season of the year. He invited us to pro- ceed to Aparri, saying that he would send a steam launch up the river to take us to that city. We replied by another telegram, repeating our request and saying that the trip across the mountains would be made at our own risk. The reply was a courteously worded but positive refusal. The col- onel had sent our messengers to examine the roads and they reported them impassable. Moreover, there was a danger from Igorrotes, five million of whom were commonly supposed to inhabit that locality. He said that he felt himself responsible for our safety in the district over which he held command. He feared any accident happening to our party might be misconstrued by our Govern- ment and create a wrong and injurious impression of the good faith of the Philippines and the tran- quility of the country. He repeated his invitation to visit Aparri, take a steamer from that port, dis- embark at a northern point on the western coast, and continue our journey south by land. This ar- rangement was accepted as the most satisfactory one left open to us. Our horses arrived at Ilagan November 2d, and were sent on the Aparri next day. The steam launch mentioned by the colonel not arriving on time, we expressed our desire to set out in a canoe ILAGAN THE CAPITAL OF ISABELA. 127 without delay. A "panga" or large built up ca- noe, rowed by twelve men, was accordingly pre- pared. Friday morning November 4th, we em- barked for Aparri. We were accompanied on the journey by Cammandante Villa and Lieutenant Guzman. All the officers, civil and military, of the town accompanied us to the boat and wished us a pleasant journey. The panorama which was unfolded to my view as we descended the Rio Grande was most enchant- ing, and I gazed with rapture and regret at the dis- tant alluring mountains, into whose fastnesses and secrets I was forbidden to penetrate and to learn the character and customs of their inhabitants and test their minerological wealth. That the inhabi- tants of this wilderness have not attained the de- gree of civilized advancement which marks their lowland brethern I do not doubt, and from the evi- dence which came under my observation, I do not hesitate to deny that they possess the habits of in- tractability attributed to them ;from motives of per- sonal safety the Spaniards had studiously left them severely to themselves, but were ever ready to re- peat and enlarge upon any story of their alleged barbarism and cruelties without any personal knowledge. As I have before said, these people display considerable skill, intelligence and ingenui- 128 THROUGH LUZON. ty in working metal into various articles of use and ornamentation, as well as into weapons, and have shown a tendency for agricultural pursuits, which would seem to disprove their cannibalistic prac- tices, at least as a means of subsistence. They en- tertain such a wholesome fear of fire arms that at the approach of soldiers they have been known to bury their daughters under ground, covering them with matting until the soldiers passed, often so heavily that the poor girls were sometimes smoth- ered. Great herds of cattle feed on the green slopes lining the river bank, some of them being fine blooded Jerseys. One authority says there were at one time over one hundred thousand head of cat- tle in the province of Isabella alone, but the rav- ages of the insurrection destroyed as far as possi- ble this vast number, and almost devastated the country. The foot hills and mountains in the vast valley of the Rio Grande offer boundless possibilities to the farmer and herdsman. The climate is fine, the soil rich and productive. Vast areas of land remain untouched, owing to an indisposition on the part of the natives to stray far from populous districts. Beans, sweet potatoes, peas, onions , celery, water melons, tomatoes, tobacco, coffee, fine cot- ILAGAN THE CAPITAL OF ISABELA. 131 ton and cocoa are a partial index of what is await- ing the energy of the thrifty American when once he takes possession of this beautiful Paradise and applies modern methods and Yankee grit to its de- velopment. The raising of cattle alone in the vast plains of the two great provinces of Isabella and Cagayan is a tempting venture, and admits of wonderful suc- cess. They thrive as well, if not better, in a torrid zone than most people suppose, and the nearness of the market of Hong Kong and Manila by way of Aparri affords a good field for speculation. The greatest drawback to advancement in this immense district is the total lack of rapid transpor- tation. The moment a railroad is completed along the banks of the Rio Grande, with branches encircling and connecting the foothills a remarka- ble metamorphosis will ensue. It would be an act of wisdom on the part of the Government of the United States to lend its aid and encouragement in the construction of a line of railroad through this island that would ensure prompt intercourse and sufficient means of distributing its products. Not one quarter of the great area of Luzon has as yet been explored, and the percentage now under cultivation is comparatively insignificant. CHAPTER VII. DOWN THE RIO GRANDE TO APARRL THE rapid current of the Rio Grande hurried our boat along its pleasant course un til eve- ning, when we pulled into the landing at Cabagan Viejo, the home of our companion Guzman. We visited the town and met his family, who were warm in their welcome and demanded that a stop be made for the night. But this was out of the question, as our leave of absence was fast ap- proaching its end. Senora Guzman occupied a finely constructed home, the furnishings showing very good taste indeed. She furnished us with a supply of bottled beer, offered us cigars and sweet meats and handed me the following letter from the Presidente Local of Santa Maria, at which place we hoped to remain a day : *"E1 Presidente Local del pueblo de Sta. Maria de Luzon, tiene la alta honra de saludar al Sor. V. B. Wilcox." 132 DOWN THE RIO GRANDE TO APARRI. 133 "De V. atento afmio y, S. S., Q. B. L. M." "Luis F. Santos," "Isabella de Luzon-Santa Maria." This shows the care with which the Filipinos use forms of politeness. Expressing our appreciation for this card and Senora Guzman's kindness, we returned to the boat prepared for a night's sleep, while the native oarsmen kept at their work con- tinuously. I had not failed to notice how little these natives sleep after a most tedious days's work climbing the mountains. They would often sit around the camp fire in conversation almost the whole night, and with the coming of the morn were ready for another hard day's work. They seem to be all nerve, and this on nourishment no more muscle- building than rice. It is a case of the "survival of the fittest," with them. Help from doctors or sur- geons when in distress is unknown, nothing being used but the native remedies made of leaves and herbs. An incident occurred on this day that might have resulted seriously but for the presence of Villa. Sargent had taken a position on the bow of the boat, just outside of the mat awning, when suddenly shots were heard and a bullet whistled by unpleasantly near to him. Turning, he saw a 134 THROUGH LUZON. boat load of native troops in pursuit and another rifle pointed at him. Villa had by this time emerged from the interior attracted by the shots, and at once took in the situation. He hailed our pursuers energetically in the native language and the firing ceased, when we learned that Sargent had been mistaken for a Spaniard. Winding tortuously through the channel from bank to bank, passing the towns of Tuguegaro, into Aparri and uly settled, as usual, in the most Tguig, Acala, Nasiping, Gataran and Lal-lo, we overtook a steam launch coming up stream, sent by our kindly host-to-be, Colonel Tirano. Heav- ing us a line, it was not long before we were towed into Aparri and duly settled, as usual, in the most commodious house in the town. The Colonel was pleased to receive us, and pre- sented us to his official staff, among whom was a young man of magnificent proportions, handsome- ly dressed in uniform of silk, Lientenant Weber by name, who spoke English exceedingly well. He had been in Hong King with Aguinaldo, where he met Admiral Dewey, for whom he had the greatest respect as an officer, and upon whose judgment he implicitly relied to straighten out the existing entangled condition of affairs. For a great while he delighted us with praise of the Ad- DOWN THE RIO GRANDE TO APARRI. 135 miral, being unaware that either Sargent or my self belonged to that service. Colonel Tirano, as a mark of appreciation and respect for the Admiral, entrusted to my care a bundle of Igorrote spears and bolos for presenta- tion to him. The change in the appearance of the military at this point was very marked, silk being the mater- ial used in the uniform of the officers, with silver handled swords and silver-plated revolvers at their sides, mostly captured from the Spaniards. The long-suffering, silently working women were con- stantly doing their part in keeping the men in proper condition to meet the fatigues of a military campaign, and the fruits of their efforts were ap- parent on every side, and entitled them to great praise. It was raining hard when we reached Aparri, but one gets so used to it in this latitude that it does reaches maturity in grace, that in that moment he not interfere with any of one's plans. Colonel Tirano thought the most agreeable and accepta- ble to entertain us would be to have a baile. He sent word to that effect to a prominent citizen of the place, and this man apprised the senoritas that they were expected to dance that very day with the American officers. So this wet and dreary 136 THROUGH LUZON. afternoon was pleasantly passed in whirling through the rigodon, the waltz and the lancers. The women were bright looking and very well dressed and though shy and retiring in their con- versation were willing to dance at any and all times. Refreshments in the way of sweet liquors and native wine were offered after every number. We remained until time to return to our quarters, quite forgetting the discomforts of travel in the presence of good music and comfortable surround- ings. Aparri is the largest port in Northern Luzon, with a depth of water of nearly twenty feet, with good dock facilities. The population is 20,000 and it has many handsome houses and several well-de- fined streets. The military force stationed here consisted of three hundred soldiers, in addition to which the harbor had the protection of the gun- boat "Philippina," which carried two guns of a caliber of about three inches. There were several officers here, three captains and five or six lieuten- ants. The colonel went from town to town in his district, and Commandante Leyba spent part of his time at Tuguegarao. There were no Span- iards here, with the exception of two or three mer- chants. One of these, representing the company of the steamer "Saturnas," we met. He was pur- DOWN THE RIO GRANDE TO APARRI. 137 suing his business entirely unmolested. All the priests, soldiers and civil officers had been sent to Tuguegarao and other towns up the river. Col- onel Tirano did not consider them secure in a port town. The steamer "Saturnas," which had left the har- bor the day before our arrival, brought news from Hong Kong papers that the senators from the United States at the congress of Paris favored the independence of the islands with an American pro- tectorate. Colonel Tirano considered the infor- mation of sufficient reliability to justify him in re- garding the Philippine independence as assured, and warfare in the island at an end. For this rea- son he proceeded to relinquish the military com- mand he held over the provinces and to place this power in the hands of a civil officer elected by the people. On the day following our arrival at Apar- ri the ceremony occurred which solemnized the transfer of authority in the province of Cagayan. The Presidentes Locales of all the towns in the provinces were present at the ceremony, conduct- ed by a native priest. After the priest had retired Colonel Tirano made a short speech stating that since in all probabilities permanent peace was at hand it became his duty to relinquish the authori- ty he had previously held over the province and 138 THROUGH LUZON. to place it in the hands of a civil officer elected by the people. He then handed the staff of office to the man who had been elected "J e ^ e Provincial." This officer also made a speech, in which he thanked the disciplined military forces and their colonel for the service rendered the province and assured them that the work they had begun would be perpetuated by the people, where every man, woman and child stood ready to take up arms to defend their newly won liberty and to resist with the last drop of their blood the attempt of any na- tion whatever to bring them back to their former state of dependence. His speech was very im- passioned. He then knelt, placed his hand on an open Bible and took the oath of office. He was followed by the three other officers who constitute the provincial government, the heads of the three departments, justice, police and internal revenue. Every town in this province has this same organ- ization. At the time of our departure Colonel Tirano planned to go within a few days to Ilagan and from there to Bayombong, repeating this cere- mony in the capital city of each province. Aparri seems to present facilities for great im- provement as a shipping port, and with a line of light draft stern-wheel steamers plying on the Rio Grande, it will rival Manila in the amount of cargo DOWN THE RIO GRANDE TO APARRI. 139 brought in for dispatch by sea. The nearness to Hong Kong and Yokohama, as well as the United States, gives it a great advantage. The native boats or "cascos" coming down the Rio Grande at present make fairly good time, but in ascending the river it must be by poling close to the bank, a slow and almost interminable process. The succeeding day was spent in devising means for transportation to the most northern port on the west coast. Our horses were still en route in charge of Don Tomas, but I had brought three servants for care of baggage, part of which consist- ed of Mexican dollars brought from Manila, and so little of it was used it became more of a bur- den than benefit. The Norwegian steamer, "Os- lo" fortunately came into port that afternoon, and this seemed our only hope. She was chartered by two Chinamen who had two hundred coolies on board bound for Manila. At first they refused per- mission for us to embark, and declined to put in at any port on the west coast. No sooner \vas this related to Colonel Tirano than he sent notice that the ship could no clear without taking us and mak- ing a landing where we desired. This argument was convincing, but I agreed to pay one hundred Mexicans for the trip, which was to begin the next evening. 140 THROUGH LUZON. The horses and outfit were left in charge of Don Tomas to make the best of his way to Manila by any ship that would carry them. \Yhile waiting for the steamer to sail, a German who had been buying tobacco in labela, intro- duced himself in English and told of his experi- ence of the last few days in coming down the river. He had hired a native crew of oarsmen to bring him to Aparri, carrying with him twenty thousand Mexican dollars. Being alone, though under- standing the language, he felt safe enough, but during the night this crew turned pirates, bound him hand and foot, placing him on the bow of the boat for the purpose of shoving him overboard at a convenient place. While near the bank, in a shallow stretch of water, having previously released his feet from their bindings, and at a favorable moment, he jumped into the water, making the bank with the greatest difficulty. Here he re- mained until daylight, when assisted by natives who unbound his arms, showing them cut near the shoulders to a quarter of an inch into the flesh. Some of this money was found, three thousand dollars, and the balance was promised by Colonel Tirano in case the robbers were not found, search for whom was immediately instituted. DOWN THE RIO GRANDE TO APARRI. 141 After a pleasant three days at Aparri, we left on the "Oslo" November 9th. Before leaving Col- onel Tirano provided us with a letter addressed to Colonel Tino, at Vigan, in the province of Ilocos Sur, or in the event of his absence from that town, to the commande. This letter was sealed. CHAPTER VIII. FROM APARRI TO SALOMAGUE. THE captain of the "Oslo," Peterson, was very agreeable and did his utmost for our comfort, but the two Chinamen, who had their wives on board, were smoking opium in their cabin; the fumes penetrating into our little apartment made the air stifling, but we managed to weather it through. Along the north- ern coast are several seemingly thrifty towns, and quite secluded from the other parts of the island by being located in the valleys surrounded by mountains on either side. It was hoped the port of Currimao in the prov- ince of Ilocos Norte, would afford a place for dis- embarking, but Captain Peterson was not ac- quainted with it and took us on to Salomague, a few miles further south in the province of Ilocos Sur. He put us ashore with our hand baggage only, in his cutter, and to the astonishment of the native 142 FROM APARRI TO SALOMAGUE. 143 people we landed. The Oslo had heaved anchor, was already under way, and we found ourselves in the hands of the inhabitants with no horses and no means of conveyance except what could be found with the almighty dollars still remaining. Our arrival had been reported at the town of Cabagao, some six miles distant, and not knowing what the result might be, we sat down to take everything calmly and trust to luck. So many dis- appointments and difficulties had cropped up from the day we left Manila that it had developed a love of surmounting obstacles, and smooth sailing is a tame affair after all. On the shore of Salomague we looked over the fortifications there, a barricade five feet high and one hundred and fifty feet long, built up with sticks arranged in two rows and filled in between with sand and coral stones. Its walls are about four feet thick, and built in the form of a crescent, with the concave part towards the sea. The formation of the reefs here and for some distance south along the coast is coral. Waiting patiently a short time, two officials from Cabugao rode up, who had come immediate- ly to refuse permisison to disembark. They were both dressed in military uniform, one wearing the insignia of a first lieutenant, the other none what- 144 THROUGH LUZON. ever. There was nothing left but to provide horses and with these we accompanied them to Cabugao. The officer without insignia of rank proved to be a native priest, the cure of the village. He put on his robe over his uniform as soon as he reached the convent. It is a fact worthy of note that in every town we visited in the provinces on the west- ern coast we were met by a cure, who appeared to have great influence in civil matters. In the four provinces we had previously visited, on the con- trary, we saw only one native priest. He was in a church performing service. At Cabugao our let- ter to Colonel Tino was not sufficient permission to proceed. We were detained here all day, while the lieutenant sent a messenger to Vigan to obtain instructions from the commande. The telegraph line was down and we could not wire. We were treated very cooly at this town and were regarded with suspicion. Next morning, an answer not hav- ing been received from Vigan, we asserted our right to proceed to that town to present our letter to the commandante. The lieutenant finally with- drew his objections. There were no transporta- tion accommodations, but we succeeded at length in buying one horse and a broken down "quiles," in which only one could ride. FROM APARRI TO SALOMAGUE. 145 The roads in this part of the island are extreme- ly good, with exception that most of the bridges are carried away by every freshet. The highway was constructed years ago and is wide enough for any carriage to pass at any_ place along the entire west coast line. It is much more interesting on this side of the island than the eastern part, from its showing a longer development, more substan- tially built houses, and better cultivated fields. In the narrow strip of land lying between the moun- tain range and the sea, nearly all of it is given over to rice growing, and at the time we passed every available person was employed cutting palay or rice straw, tying it up in neat small bundles. More women and girls were thus occupied than men, and to keep the rays of the sun from beating down too fiercely, large shades made of strips of bamboo, closely woven together, were stuck in the soft ground and moved along as the harvesting pro- gressed. At times when field work is unnecessary, the women occupy their spare moments in spinning cotton and weaving cloth, and it is not rare to see an elderly man leisurely walking the streets with a bundle of cotton, twisting the thread and reeling it into balls. The silk and cotton goods made in Ilocos have the quality of being extreme- J46 THROUGH LUZON. ly durable, but more expensive than the imported cotton of Europe. The men and women of this province were well dressed and displayed an air of being amply fed and comfortable. Now and then along the road were groves of cocoanut trees, the almost indis- pensable food for the natives. When green, the nuts furnish milk that is not so sweet as when ripe, and is much more desired. The "bolo" is always used to cut the nuts for food and drink. A grove of cocoanuts is most profitable after the seventh year of planting and pay thirty to forty per cent, annual revenue. Corn grows well along the slopes of the moun- tains, being raised in some quantities, but is not so well liked by the native as rice. Sheep and cattle flourish in the foothills, but lack of proper atten- tion prevents them from making much of an in- crease in numbers. Tobacco forms a part of the products of this lo- cality, and though raised mostly for local consump- tion, is far inferior to that of the provinces of Cag- ayan and Isabela, some of which is said to equal that of the Vuelto Abajo district of Cuba. I noticed some sugar cane growing along the road, and also immense quantities of bamboo and "bejuco" or rattan, the latter useful for tying to- FROM APARRI TO SALOMAGUE. 149 gether the bamboo in the innumerable and differ- ent articles which the natives find necessary for daily life. The roots of the bamboo are edible and for want of better food is a good substitute. With only a "bolo" and plenty of bamboo and rattan, the native can construct anything from a house to a bridge, fish traps and bird nets ; and in traveling through the country in the rainy season when flooded streams are encountered, it does not interfere with his peace of mind. He soon makes a shelter of bamboo poles, covers it with palm leaves and long grass, and waits for the water to subside sufficiently to cross by raft or a bridge made of bamboo matted together. I found many of these so-called bridges on this side of the island, the rainy season just passed hav- ing carried away those made the previous year. Passing through this fairly well cultivated stretch of country, the Cordilleras made a background to the eastward that looked tempting for anyone en- thused with a spirit of venture into unbeaten paths, but it was forbidden us to penetrate this inviting scene. The village of Lapo, six miles farther on, was reached about noon where we took lunch with the officials and prepared for continuing the journey. They were hospitable enough, but it was necessary 9 ISO THROUGH LUZON. to change horses, and the only thing in this line obtainable was a steer. Nothing daunted, we hitched the steer into the "quiles" and proceeded in this undignified way in the direction of the next town, Masingal. We were halfway between Lapo and Masingal when we were met by three military officers two captains and a lieutenant in a carriage drawn by two horses. The senior captain informed us that they had been sent from Vigan by the comman- dante, with orders to require us to turn back and re-embark on our ship, the report having reached Vigan that we had disembarked from an American man-of-war, which was still waiting for us at Salo- mague. When we explained our position and showed them the letter to Colonel Tino, or in case of his absence to the commandante at Vigan, they permitted us to proceed to Masingal until the early evening, waiting for an answer from the commandante. He brought the answer himself in a handsome carriage drawn by four horses. He had with him a copy of the order he had just re- ceived from the Philippine Secretary of War. This order granted liberty to persons of any nation except Spain to travel at will through the islands, under certain restrictions, viz., that they could not carry arms, nor approach within 200 meters of a FROM APARRI TO SALOMAGUJS. 151 fortification, nor make any plans, or take photo- graphs of them. In compliance with this order, we were allowed to proceed, but were requested to give up all our arms, including our revolvers. In company with the commandante and five oth- er officers who had assembled at Masingal, we rode in carriages, none of them drawn by fewer than three horses, and preceded by outriders, with ban- ners flying. The towns of Sta Domingo and San Ildefonso were soon passed, reaching Bantay at the bank of the Rio Abra at dark. This wide, tur- bulent stream spreads out here and covers such a space that the water is shallow enough for fording without any danger. At eight o'clock we were escorted to the Palacio at Vigan, the former resi- dence of the Spanish governor of the province of Ilocos Sur, but then being used as the headquar- ters of Colonel Tino, and there we were provided with dinner and large sleeping rooms with neat and clean beds for the night. The commandante was polite and courteous in every possible way, throwing open his house for our benefit and en- tertainment. He had music for our pleasure and said he was only sorry he had not more. CHAPTER IX. VIGAN, CAPITAL OF ILOCOS SUR. VIGAN is the capital of the province of Ilocos Sur, with a popualtion of 27,000. Its streets are well laid out, though somewhat overgrown with grass, and all the houses near the center of the town are built up of brick and wood, usually whitewashed. It has much more the ap- pearance of a city than any other town we visited. In addition to the Palacio the residence of the arch bishop is a striking edifice, and, if anything, more elegant in all its surroundings and appear- ance. At the Palacia there were quartered over eigh- teen military officers ; all very young as is usual in the Filipino army. The oldest one among them was a man of twenty-nine years, with the grade of a captain. These officers were most inquisitive, dipping into all sorts of subjects that required diplomacy to avoid answering in a direct manner, but were pleasant enough and willing to render VIGAN CAPITAL OF ILOCOS SUR. 153 any assistance necessary. The uniforms were no- ticeably fine, many made of pure silk by the women of the province, and their swords and revolvers were silver plated. We remained at Vigan all next day, November 1 2th. It had rained during the night, rendering impassable a part of the road to the next town. We walked through the streets visiting the shops of several tradespeople. At one of these we heard the first and only definite complaint which came to our ears during the entire journey, on the part of the natives, against the present government. These people complained of the taxes imposed upon them, and even went so far as to state that they preferred the Spanish government. This statement was made in the presence of a party of six natives and was acquiesced in by all. They were all, however, of the same family. The general appearance of Vigan was that it had been a prosperous town with important com- mercial transactions, as evidenced by the number of Chinamen in trade, who only go where business is brisk and profitable. At this time there was a dull, inactive atmosphere surrounding the city, and no one seemed to be doing anything but wait- ing for developments. 154 THROUGH LUZON. The country near Vigan is fair to look upon ; the land is fertile and wonderfully productive. Many cattle and sheep are raised in the hills, this indus- try not thriving very well, though a good market is afforded at Vigan and Manila. The value of land is reasonable, large tracts of which are obtainable for a small amount, though the surveys, what they are, no doubt being much confused. In the early morning of the next day the Fran- ciscan priest who had charge of the matters per- taining to his order in that district, invited me to accompany him across the river from Vigan en route south. The stream was so wide, however, and the current so strong, we were compelled to build "balsas," and thus ferry our party over. On the opposite bank was waiting a handsome Victor- ia and horses, in which we proceeded to the town of Santa. Here I was asked to visit an extensive sugar mill, the output of which was the principal product of the province. A sort of liquor or "cana dulce" was manufactured in large quantities, though shipped mostly to Manila, the natives be- ing most temperate in their drinks, and this stuff is fiery enough to satisfy even a wild Apache. The mill had extensive machinery, large iron crushing rolls and evaporating pans with a refining process in the building. It was not running constantly, the cane cultivation being insufficient to supply the mill enough for its full capacity. VIGAN CAPITAL OF ILOCOS SUR. 155 From Santa to Narvacan we came to the pass of Pidig. The road here passes between a bold rocky point and the sea. The sea line was seventy or eighty feet from the bluff, but in windy weather the waves cover the road and dash against the rocks in furioitsness. During the insurrection the Spaniards attempted to defend this pass, and their barriers are still standing. From this pass the road remained good to Nar- vacan, where a short halt was made, but long enough to visit the Presidente Local a bright young man, quietly occupying the former resi- dence of the local priest, a well furnished house, with a library of rare books from which the presi- dente offered us any we wished to take. Am very sorry that I was hindered in accepting some of these fifteenth century volumes, but any additional weight, however valuable, was not to be consid- ered. At this town we were joined by Captain Nativi- dad, an officer of eighteen years, who commanded the military forces in the three neighboring vil- lages, and he accompanied us to Santa Maria, where we spent the night in a convent. In traveling through the islands I had learned that where there were towns that could be reached at night, no difficulty was found in obtaining places 5 6 THROUGH LUZON. to sleep at night without the necessity of using tents, and on this knowledge I had left our camp- ing outfit at Aparri, making such stages on the road as would bring us to a certain place during daylight. It was nearly always a room in the con- vento that was put at our disposal. The convento at Santa Maria occupied a most beautiful and imposing location upon an elevation on the side of the mountain, strongly built as a fortress, overlooking the town and valley. It was a large and massive structure of heavy stone, the rooms very commodious, containing furniture re- markable for its quality of material. The head boards and posts of the bed were carved out of solid mahogany in most artistic figures. The bed spreads were made of cotton woven in the manner peculiar to the locality. One of these was presented to me by the occupant of the convent. I succeeded in getting it to Manila, but had to part with it, on account of weight before leaving for the United States, some time later. Stained glass windows softened the light falling into the drawing room, which was decorated with pictures and tapestries. The walls had been fres- coed by some one of artistic pretentions, the col- ors blending harmoniously. Everything had been left by the priests in good condition, when sudden- VIGAN CAPITAL OF ILOCOS SUR. 157 ly called upon to abandon without parley, their comfortable abode. The church, or cathedral as it might be called, adjoined the convento by only a short intervening space and was unusually large for so small a town. There may be some reason, which I did not learn, why such grand structures should be built in this unimportant place. Seated at a window in the. morning, overlooking the village, I noticed a funer- al procession coming toward the church. It stopped under some heavy trees, where a short ceremony took place, and then ascended the long row of stone steps leading to the entrance of the cathedral. As it passed near my window I saw it was that of a woman, the casket open, her face up- turned, bared to the pitiless sky, and a black wood- en cross placed upon her breast. The procession passed within, and after the usual formalities, came out again, disappearing in the direction of the cem- etery. I noticed at this place, as in others, how well dressed the people usually were, and one nev- er sees a man, however humble, in tattered and torn or shabby clothes. The view from the convento towards the Cordil- leras in the east, again stimulated our fondest de- sire to risk our safety along the practically un- known trails of this enticing locality. It always 158 THROUGH LUZON. seems that a forbidden country, about which only vague and legendary information is given, is just what inspires one with a restless and venturesome spirit to investigate it, surrounded as it generally is by the greatest danger. With this feeling I intended leaving Santa Maria by trail for the mountains, passing through the provinces of Lepanto and Benguet and returning to the main road in the province of La Union. When we wished to start next morning, Captain Natividad opposed our going, saying he was un- der orders to take that action. It rained very hard all night and all morning, and the captain gave as his first reason that the trail was not passable. It was only when we continued to insist, that he told us positively he could not permit us to go, as there was danger from the Igorrotes, and Colonel Tino felt himself responsible for our safety, and besides had invited us to visit him at San Fernando, the capital of the province of La Union. I was unable to understand or divine the stren- uous opposition to our passing through this moun- tainous district, except on the ground of fear in the minds of officials that we were there for no oth- er purpose than making a mental survey of all stra- tegic points. We afterwards met a German en route to his ranch in the hills in the province of VIGAN CAPITAL OF ILOCOS SUR. 159 Benguet, so that dispelled the theory of any dan- ger from the wild tribes of the mountains. With the hope of penetrating more deeply into the interior deferred until we could see Col. Tino personally, a start was made in the afternoon from Santa Maria, and Candon was reached before night. Along this route the road was very good and we passed through the small towns of San Esteban and Santiago without stopping. Candon is a handsome town, symmetrically laid out, and after Vigan was the finest we had visited. There were two captains and several lieutenants stationed here who received us with unusual cour- tesy. The presidente local was most gracious in his attentions, furnishing the best that was afforded in the way of food and service. After dinner we adjourned to the sala and were presented to the important men of the town, who had come to pay their respects and make inquiries upon subjects which interested them most. In conversation I found two of the men of a very progressive spirit, Senores Abaya and Villalobos, and after our dis- cussing the resources of the adjacent districts and our disappointment at not learning more about them, they expressed the belief that no objection could be made to our going there. They did not know, however, how vainly we had attempted to 160 THROUGH LUZON. carry out such a plan. In the morning these men appeared with a letter very well written in Span- ish as follows : *"Senores Abayay Villalobos, ciudadanos filipi- no del pueblo de Kandon de la provincia de Ilocos Stir, ofrece respetuosamente Sus servicios al Excmo. Senor Gral, Americano y desea accom- panarle cuando haga la excursion por los montes de Lepanto y Tiagan con la autorizacion que sol- icitara de su G. R. Kandon 15 de Noviembre, 1898," It being out of the question to consider such a journey at this stage, I told them so, but Senor Abaya had other schemes after that. He said Candon was a good place to establish a factory for making cloth, various kinds of drinks and canned vegetables, and offered his services as a manager *"Senores Abaya and Villalobos, Philippine citi- zens of the town of Candon province of Ilocos Sur respectfully offer their services to the American officer, and wish to accompany him when he makes the excursion through the mountains of Lepanto and Tiagan, with the authorization which we would solicit from him. Candon, i5th Nov. 1898. VIGAN CAPITAL OF ILOCOS SUR. 161 or stockholder. Another of his plans was to buy coffee in Lepanto and ship it to Manila at a great profit. He said he could buy gold there from $12 to $14 in silver an ounce and copper also was to be had in quantities. As in other districts of the island there seems to have been more reports of gold than evidences of the metal itself. When a geological survey is made and the pick and shovel actually used, or placers worked with a pan, I dare say some reliable information may be obtained; yet the formation of the rocks is so comparatively recent that the theory of the existence of gold would not justify the expectation of finding it in any great quantity. It reminds one of the old sto- ry of the rainbow. "There are bags full of gold at the end of the bow," but a difficult matter to quite reach it, being always just over the mountain. This man Abaya was a unique specimen of a Filipino, full of energy and could turn his hand to anything ; much like a man I know who operated to a small extent in Wall street. He had thirteen schemes to make a million, but not one to make a living. The home of one of my servants, Pedro, was at Candon, and he piloted me around the town, stopping at one shop where "Nitos" were made. (The little silver gods worshipped by the various i6a THROUGH LUZON. tribes in the mountains.) The proprietor was do- ing such a rushing business he had only a few of the doubled-up human figures left, and these with- out arms. I wanted one as a "mascot," and he promised to complete one and send it to me at Manila, but it must be doing duty as a safeguard for some wild man, as it never reached me. CHAPTER X. ALONG THE WEST COAST. THE Presidente Local of Candon having done his utmost to make a pleasant break in our journey, was alert early, making prepara- tions for going south, and with a captain, rode with us to Santa Lucia, where to my regret he retraced his way homeward. Fresh horses were found awaiting us and there was no lack of official courtesy in making our party seem important by having a sufficient escort. The roads were found in good condition with a few exceptions, along which we made fair progress through the towns of Santa Cruz, Tagdin and Ban- where the night was to be passed. The carriages where the night ws to be passed. The carriages we had were drawn by either horses, steers or buf- faloes, according to the state of the road, and many times walking was another means. In go- ing from Tagudin to Bangan we left the province of Ilocos Sur entering that of La Union. Cocoa- '63 164 THROUGH LUZON. nut groves shaded either side of the highway. This thoroughfare was raised above the level of the fields, with a foundation of stone and was built more than a hundred years ago. Most all of the bridges had been burned during the insurrection, but a substitute was made of bamboo to last dur- ing the dry season from December to June. In the rainy months a ferry or raft is hauled across the stream by means of a bamboo rope. There are more barrios here than in the eastern provinces, each town having two or three, and the struggle during the insurrection was harder as shown by the devasted appearance of the district. Spanish soldiers burned the smaller houses, taking refuge in the larger buildings, usually the church and convento, which were consequently riddled with rifle shots. One could not but notice the industry of the wo- men, almost ceaselessly at work weaving cotton in their thatched cottages surounded by a profusion of natural flowers and verdure, and to all appear- ances quite contented. The cotton of IIocos Sur is made into cloth, towels, etc., some of it coarse, but strong, and other pieces of exquisitely fine tex- ture. While the women are allowed an amount of liberty unknown in other eastern countries, they are rigidly loyal and devoted to their homes and ALONG THE WEST COAST. 167 families, and do a full share of the work in a cheer- ful and always pleasant natural manner. This narrow strip between the Cordilleras and the sea is thickly settled, and is a region where climate is preferable to that of the low-lying dis- tricts around Manila. The Spaniards spent much money in constructing the most important high- way of the island along this coast, and the railroad from Dagupan is projected to follow this line to Laoag in Ilocos Norte, the completion of which will add immeasurably to the products of the fields and forests. The slow, tiresome gait of a carabao, almost the companion of the native, must yield to more rapid means of transportation, as the Filipino seems to take especial delight in traveling in raft- road cars when he can. At the town of Namacpacan carriages were pro- vided for continuing to San Fernando, the capital of the province of La Union. I was getting most anxious to reach Manila now, my leave of absence having expired, and I did not know what the Ad- miral might say about my delay in reporting on board ship. There was nothing that could be done to hasten our return in a country where the most rapid means of travel would not take one more than ten or fifteen miles in a day. I did my best to encourage more rapid speed, but still we 10 ' 168 THROUGH LUZON. had to "soldier" along through the towns of Dag- notan and San Juan, quite forgetting time and dis- tance in the absorbing surroundings of this still at- tractive region coming into view from hour to hour. Reaching San Fernando we were escorted to the palacio, formerly occupied by the Spanish gov- ernor of the province of La Union, and there met Colonel Tino, one whom we most wished to see. He was a young man of about twenty-two years of age, with a sharp, piercing eye, very nervous, very busy and quite domineering. At this time Colonel Tino was commander of the military dis- trict embracing the provinces of North and South Ilocos, Union, Abra, Lepanto, Bontoc and Ben- guet. He had just received his commission as brigadier-general, and there was a grand celebra- tion to take effect the following day. In conse- quence the town was gay with flags and bunting and crowded with throngs of people from neigh- boring towns. In the palacio were quartered about twenty na- tive officers with ourselves, all dressed in their fin- est uniforms and accoutrements. One of them, more kindly disposed than the others, took the trouble in showing us around, explaining how des- perate the fighting was at this place with the Span- ALONG THE WEST COAST. 169 ish garrison. The building showed it in every room, the walls being simply riddled with bullets, outside and through all the windows. After dispatching some business Gen. Tino re- ceived us politely, but not with remarkable cordi- ality. He expressed several times his suspicion with regard to the object of our journey, and asked frequently if we knew how to make maps and plans; also why we were not in uniform. We had sent word to this officer that we desired to visit the province of Benguet, taking the trail from San Fernando. He showed us an unsigned tele- gram purporting to be from the central govern- ment instructing him not to pemit the American officers to reconnoiter any further in the district. For this reason he said he could not permit us to visit Benguet. We sent, through him, a telegram to the central government repeating our request and calling attention to their war department's or- der of October 2Oth regarding travelers. We were informed next morning by General Tino that our request had been refused. The reason given was that there were dangers on the trail. After convincing him of being satisfied with the state of affairs, and manifesting a deeper interest in the products of the country and beauties lying in the wooded hills than in military affairs, he soft- '70 THROUGH LUZON. ened down to a more friendly conversation, offer- ing the usual hospitalities and particularly insist- ing upon our going to the dinn-er given to his offi- cers and officials and their wives the following day at twelve o'clock. This was accepted with appro- priate thanks and appreciation. During the morning we strolled around, visiting places of interest, not least of which was the large "cabildo" or jail, an enormous structure, built of heavy stone with strong iron bars to each cell. One of those places over the door of which might properly be inscribed: "Who enters here leaves hope behind." San Fernando is a town of only three or four thousand inhabitants, very limited in are?., lying between the mountains and the sea, and is the port of entry for the province of La Union. I noticed trains of buffalo carts bringing in tobacco and cof- fee for exportation, and some thriftiness among the shop keepers, chief of whom were Chinese. A short time before twelve we were escorted to a very large and roomy public building facing the square in front of the palacio and there presented to the important civil and military officials. The native band was making the atmosphere cheerful, and it seemed to me their music had good time, though the melody was strange. The decorations ALONG THE WEST COAST. 173 were lavish with flowers and flags of the country, to which were added many gay colors of women's dresses, the younger ones displaying gowns of blue and yellow silks, while the elders wore the custom- ary white camisas and dark skirts. The men were well attired with neat white shirts, collars and ties, black coats and trousers. A number of the young women had bright and attractive looking faces, and comely, graceful manners. I must confess I felt somewhat chagrined in joining this large assembly with a traveling suit that had seen hard service and a pair of worn out shoes. The com- pany was soon summoned to the table, richly cov- ered with flowers, china and glassware, at which eighty persons were seated. The courses were served in regular manner, soup, fish and then chicken and meats, followed by dessert and coffee. Wine was liberally brought on at intervals, and at the end cigars, more than usually good. At this stage of the dinner speeches were made, and great things were promised by the Philippine Republic in the near future. General Tino was not the least enthusiastic one among them, praising the army and all the native people in general. I sat next to a rather intelligent young woman, with whom I endeavored to carry on a conversation, but for some reason she did not seem deeply interested in what I said, or else her 174 THROUGH LUZON. thoughts were on other things than those I ven- tured to put forth. Altogether it was a dinner such as one might attend in a country more pre- tentious than Luzon, so far as the general service of the table was concerned. There was a feeling of light-heartedness among the guests, and when the band again commenced to play in the sala, a large number of those present started dancing. The lancers was about the same as usually danced, and I found no difficulty in getting through them without serious blunders or stepping on some young woman's train with my heavy shoes. Sev- eral specimens of purely native steps were intro- duced, showing great skill in the various move- ments of the feet and body. In thus mingling with the people and joining their festivities and conversations, I had learned much of the home life of the inhabitants of the in- terior, products and industries, which interested me more than the political condition of the island. Life in general on this west coast betrayed a brighter aspect, more comfort, better means of obtaining luxuries, being easier of access to Manila than in the valley of the Rio Grande. I left the assembled company late in the after- noon for our quarters, expressing due appreciation for the kindness shown us, and thanking our en- tertainers for a most pleasant day. CHAPTER XL THE PROVINCE OF BENGUET. GENERAL Tino was good enough to start us off in the morning duly provided with carriages and outriders, probably not re- gretting to be free from the burden of having us longer on his hands. We drove along leisurely all the forenoon, arriving at Bauang about twelve o'clock, resting there for about two hours and tak- ing lunch with the local civil officials at the presi- dencia. A short "siesta" was suggested after smoking some good cigars, but this was inter- rupted by the entrance of a German, Mr. Otto Sheerer, who learning that two Americans were there, came and introduced himself. Mr. Sheerer was en route to his coffee estate in the mountains in the province of Benguet, where he had lived for three years with his wife and fam- ily of two daughters. He said the trail was safe and could be traveled by horses, though he had himself carried in a sort of sedan chair, suspended 7* THROUGH LUZON. from long bamboo poles on the shoulders of native men. According to his statement the Igorrotes of the province are very gentle people, but these are the civilized ones, or Tinguanes. He had been in the tobacco business at Manila, but finding his health slowly giving way, tried this district; the clear crystal water and high elevation restored it, so he decided to make his home there and raise coffee. The plants thrive in the proper tempera- ture found along the foot hills and the industry is profitable. This district is one hundred and seventy miles from Manila, most of the distance covered by rail to Dagupan. The elevation is from 3,000 to 4,000 feet, the climate deliciously cool, the lowest tem- perature being about thirty degrees in winter and seventy-five in the summer. It was proposed by the Spanish government to build a Sanitarium in Benguet for the recuperation of invalid soldiers, also roads leading to it from the coast, and it may be that the United States will complete the plan. Several hot mineral springs in this locality were studied by a Commission and the analyses of the waters show medicinal properties. The one at Galiano, in the western part of Benguet, was changed in its thermal and sulphurous qualities by an earthquake in 1892. Three of the springs show THE PROVINCE OF BENGUET. 177 sulphur, chloride of sodium and bicarbonate of iron. It would be interesting to have a quantita- tive analysis of these waters for their value as cura- tive agents which they must possess. An Englishman who lived there three years be- fore the Philippine Commission, says : "One needs blankets at night, that there is no fever and no mosquitoes, the air being pure and fresh and the water splendid. Cattle, horses, sheep, rice and sweet potatoes flourish also tea and coffee and bananas. There seems to be any amount of gold, copper and silver mined in a crude fashion, panned out by the Indians in ap rimitive sort of way in a cocoanut shell. There is a great amount of tim- ber there, pine trees that grow up to 200 feet and five to six feet in diameter, white pine and pitch pine. "The conditions for recuperating health are much better in Beuquet than in any place in Europe. There is clear freestone water; water containing iron; water containing sulphur; water containing magnesia; and also salt water, which is a strong and efficacious purgative water. The sulphur wa- ters are very strong; some have a temperature of 70 degrees, and there are others cold. They smell very strongly of sulphur, and from a distance which requires half an hour to travel you can I7 THROUGH LUZON. smell the sulphur. There is a volcano, but it is very old; nothing more than the smoke coming out. It does not emit fire, and there is a great deal of sulphur, every piece the size of a man's fist. This volcano would probably cover six or seven square miles, and in some places it burns your hand to put it on the ground, while in others it feels very cold. The gold mines in this district are worked by nature itself. The Agno river pro- duces most of it, and when the river is high and backs up, the Igorrotes afterwards go and get the gold which is left by the waters, and they find small nuggets of six and eight grains. The Igorrotes of Beuquet are the most advanced ; they are also the richest of all the Igorrotes. There are no poor among them on account of the great quantity of gold, for if a man has no money he goes to the river and gets some gold. There are no real rich men, for if a man there has $1,000 he is considered rich. "Altogether the province of Beuquet is the most healthful in all the Philippines ; the scenery is mag- nificent ; the waters pure, whether from hot or cold springs ; the air rich in the aroma from pine forest ; the food fresh and wholesome, and people who go there with dysentery or fever, after a month or two come back to Manila quite fresh men. The Igor- THE PROVINCE OF BENGUET. 79 rotes are very peaceful and quiet, and though not taxed, were oppressed. The Spanish Comman- dant would have a birthday, and the priests would have another one, then the Commandant's wife, and the natives would have to bring in presents of gold or cattle or something else on these birthdays, and in all the Spanish feasts they would have to do exactly the same thing. Each chief, in fact the whole of the natives, would have to bring in gold or cattle to present to the Commandant, and it worked better for him than taxation." I particularly noticed the build of the men Mr. Sheerer had with him, all of them strong and mus- cular, and he told me they were full of endurance, very faithful and with no bad traits. On their own stamping ground they worked for him without complaint and he never interfered with their hab- its or customs. The condition of the natives here is similar to that described by Humboldt of those of Mexico. He says: "The natives enjoy one great physical advantage which is undoubtedly ow- ing to the great simplicity in which their ancestors lived. They are subject to hardly any deformity. I never saw a hunchbacked Indian, and it is ex- tremely rare to see any of them who squint or are lame in arm or leg. Their hair seldom becomes gray, nor is their skin subject to wrinkles, and it is i8o THROUGH LUZON. by no means uncommon to see natives, especially women, reach one hundred years of age. We can have no doubt then, that the absence of natural deformities among them is the effect of their mode of life and the constitutions peculiar to their race. "We are inclined to believe that the Arab- European race possesses a greater flexibility of or- ganization, and that it is more easily modified by a great number of exterior causes, such as variety of ailments, climates and habits, and consequently has a greater tendency to deviate from its original model. "How many problems then are to be solved in a mountainous country, which exhibits in the same latitude the greatest variety of climates, inhabitants of three or four primitive races, and a mixture of these races in all the combinations imaginable? How many researches to be made regarding the fecundity and longevity of the species? The latter is greater or less according to the elevation and temperature of the places, the variety of the races and finally, according to the difference of food in provinces, where the banana, rice, maize, wheat and potatoes grow together in a narrow space." I have paused in describing my journey to give space to the above remarks of the people around this locality, who show such fine bodies and mus- THE PROVINCE OF BENGUET. 183 cles, that one cannot but watch their movements with admiration. If I were to live in Manila, a month of each year would be taken for a vacation in the mountains of Beuguet. The fruits and veg- etables, sparkling spring water, and coffee that is coffee, not forgetting the varieties of flowers that beautify the surroundings would give a zest to life and renewed health and strength to an enervated man. Mr. Sheerer was with us constantly during the short stop at Bauang, and as we started off, he joined us as far as the river, returning after our having put the equipment and servants on the ferry, which was the last I saw of him. The first stop was made at the village of Caba, but only long enough to get a fresh relay of horses, and we continued to Aringay and found it neces- sary to engage caribao to cross the river at that place. We continued the journey in a clear, hot morning, the sun coming out in almost burning fierceness, and at noon, November 18, we reached Santo Tomas, passing the village of Agoo on the road. After lunching with the local officials, who seemed much absorbed in a letter just received from a Frenchman in Manila making inquiries about purchasing tobacco, we discussed the means i4 THROUGH LUZON. of transportation to Dagupan. The land between Santo Tomas and Dagupan is very low, the roads heavy, and the easiest way to cover the distance was by water; we accordingly took a native sail boat or proa, to make the passage to San Fabian, the natives fearing to cross the bar at Dagupan, and we proceeded to our destination through a protected inlet of the sea. Traveling in native boats is the most uncom- fortable means of transportation in the island. In any kind of a sea they are dangerous, and the space for one to occupy is so cramped, the passenger must remain doubled up under a heavy covering of palm leaves for a deck, and should any accident happen, no chance of egress could be had in time to save himself. To spend several hours in such a boat is decidedly more fatiguing than an all-day's trip on foot. Along our route lay great beds of nipa, or palms, most of them being tapped to draw the sap into bamboo cups that hung on the stalks of the plants. This was gathered daily and carried to a distillery where nipa, a sort of wine or liquor, was made. The extent of these nipa beds was for miles, sufficient to produce an unlimited quantity of the liquor, but as far as I could observe the natives were tem- perate in their use of it. THE PROVINCE OF BENGUET. 185 Our landing place was close to a distillery and in waiting for a cart to carry us farther on, the proprietor explained the process of converting the sap into the article for commerce. When first dis- tilled or boiled it has a taste similar to lemonade, but fermentation greatly increases the percentage of alcohol. Late in the evening a conveyance was sent down from Dagupan, carrying us to that place, the end of the railroad, which we were to take the follow- ing day. Senor Pedro y Torres was the Commandante at Dagupan, a man of suave and complaisant attitude when we met him, but it all be- lied his true character, which I later learned to be most vicious and barbarous. He was occupying the house of the former Spanish official, who was there at the time, but in the role of a prisoner of war. This Spaniard was a military officer and seemed in his conversation not at all disturbed about his condition, being well fed and the side- board still contained a goodly supply of such li- quors as suited his taste, the remnants of his own selection. It was necessary to remain over night in order to get the train in the morning. The Comman- dante realized this, and offered a room with two 186 THROUGH LUZON. beds in it, and also dinner, both of which were ac- cepted. As our baggage, what little then re- mained, was left to come down a few days later, I asked Senor Torres to allow my boy Pedro to remain until it arrived and bring it to Manila. He consented, and promised to take good care of the servant. I had no sooner left Dagupan than this scoundrel lashed the poor boy to a bed post with a three strand piece of rope, and kept him in that position for three days. Pedro finally extricated himself by an ingenious method, got the baggage under way and reached Manila. When he reported to me, his arms were lacerated from the shoulders to his elbows, the rope having cut the skin a quar- ter of an inch, leaving the raw flesh exposed. He was subjected to this barbarous treatment simply because he was the servant of American naval of- ficers. I was anxious to interview Senor Torres, but my time was too limited. To the credit of the Filipinos I will say this was the only instance where any of my party were mistreated on the entire trip. We found a train could be had at Dagupan al- lowing a stop at Bayambang, which we took, and there met again our kind host, Mr. Clark. He persuaded us to remain over night, and it was pleasant to accept his hospitality a second time, because an Englishman always makes himself A NATIVE FRUIT CARRIER. THE PROVINCE OF BENGUET. 189 comfortable, and likewise his guests in any coun- try, however remote. Mr. Clark expressed sur- prise at our return without mishap. After a de- licious breakfast in the morning, we took the train for the last time, and enjoyed passing through the thickly settled provinces on the way to Manila, arriving there in the afternoon of November 2Oth, going to the Hotel Lalla Ary. I found that Cap- tain Whiting was at the Hotel Oriente, where I reported to him, and in the morning on board the "Monadnock." The most pleasant duty was to report to Ad- miral Dewey on the "Olympia" that we had accom- plished the object of our leave of absence. The Admiral received us most kindly and expressed great interest in our verbal report. It certainly is one of the greatest pleasures of naval life to have the approval of one's acts by an officer for whom one has the highest admiration and respect, as we have for Admiral Dewey. I still had my original party scattered over the island, and the next few days was occupied in rounding them up. First came a servant from Dagupan, and then the horses by steamer from Aparri. I had to personally attend to unloading them, the first mate not just knowing the proper manner ; so we rigged up a heavy sling and hoist- i9o THROUGH LUZON. ed them out and lowered them on the deck. Cap- tain Randolph of the Third Artillery had kindly offered to let one of his men to take charge of them. They were a hard looking lot, but after a few days feeding on molasses and sacate, or green grass, their condition was good enough to be of- fered for sale and were purchased by the Quar- termasters' Department of the Army. It was with more than ordinary regret I dis- missed the men who had faithfully followed us, one more particularly, who was very anxious to go with us to the United States. I feared if he came it would not be long until homesickness crept into his thoughts and make him useless. Thus ended a trip through the heart of Luzon, on highways and byways and waterways. In a month and a half we had traveled over seven hun- dred and fifty miles of territory, much of which was known to few who had personally seen it. All sorts of means of transportation were required, by railway, on horseback, by native boats and rafts, with steers and buffaloes, by steamer, in native carriages, and not the least important, on foot. The hardest part of the whole distance was from San Jose to Puncan, over a trail in the mountains, during a heavy rain all day, when we had to throw the reins over the horses' saddles and let them THE PROVINCE OF BENGUET. 191 make the best of their way, as we did, on foot. Not a stitch of clothing was dry, and by sleeping in these wet things it brought on dysentery, a prev- alent and dangerous disease in the Philippines. We had crossed the Caraballo Mountains, the dividing line for rivers running south into Manila Bay and north into the Pacific Ocean, and down the extensive valley of the Rio Grande de Caga- yan. The nights were generally cool, though the sun when it came out was almost unbearable dur- ing the middle of the day. The rivers, so numer- ous, caused a display of courage in crossing some of the flooded streams, and my companion, Naval Cadet Sargent, with unflinching resolution, would plunge his horse into a current of six and seven miles an hour, as an example to the whole party. He was full of endurance, fearlessness, and bravery, never weary, and without him the trip would not have been completed, I fear. Down the entire west coast a more advanced condition of life obtains than in the less frequented districts of the Valley of the Rio Grande. Houses are more substantially built; conveniences for home life are more easily obtainable. Roads are good in most places, except the bridges, and com- munication with the outside world frequent and not difficult. 192 THROUGH LUZON. In the northern half of Luzon variety of climate is found, from very warm at the sea level to very cool in the greater altitudes, some of which reach seven thousand feet. For any one who seeks this country, he can with well directed energy and perseverance, blaze his way into a suitable climate, and doubtless find a livelihood with comparative case. CHAPTER XII. THE MILITARY ELEMENT. THE Philippine officers both military and civil, that we met in all the provinces vis- ited, with very few exceptions, were men of intelligent appearance and conversation. The same is true of all those men who form the upper class in each town. The education of most of them is limited, but they appear to sieze every opportun- ity to improve it. They have great respect and admiration for learning. Very many of them de- sired to send their children to schools in the United States or Europe, and many men of im- portance in different towns have told us that the first use to be made of the revenue of their gov- ernment, after there was no more danger of war, was to start good schools in every village. The poorer classes are extremely ignorant on most subjects, but a large percentage of them can raed and write. There is a very marked line between these two classes, and this has been broadened by 193 194 THROUGH LUZON. the insurrection, for the reason that military offi- cers must equip themselves without pay, and that civil officers have numerous expenses for which they receive no return. All officers, civil and mil- itary, have therefore been chosen from the richer classes ; and the political and military power of the provinces is in the hands of that element. The private soldiers are fed and clothed by the govern- ment and allowed a very small amount of spend- ing money in the western provinces, 30 cents in silver per week. In the provinces of the east that we visited there appears to be little or no friction between the civil and military classes. Officers and privates, as far as we could observe, treat civilians with considera- tion. In the provinces of Ilocos Sur and Union there is a marked difference. The officers were more domineering. In traveling in these prov- inces we had many opportunities to observe this attitude. When accidents happened to our car- riage the officer commanding our escort called to our assistance every native in sight, and if they did not answer his call promptly, we saw him strike them with his riding whip. One man had a ser- ious wound on his face where an officer had struck him with his pistol butt ; he came to us for redress after having appealed in vain to the military offi- THE MILITARY ELEMENT. 19$ cer in command of the town. An order from Don Emilio Aguinaldo, dated October 18, 1898, calls the attention of his officers to the evils of this prac- tice and ordered them to correct it in themselves and to instruct all sergeants corporals and privates on the attitude they should maintain toward civil- ians. Of the large number of officers, civil and mili- tary, and of leading townspeople we met, nearly every man expressed in our presence his sentiments upon the question of independence. They desire the protection of the United States at sea, but fear any interference on land. The question of the re- muneration of our government for the expense of establishing a protectorate was never touched upon. On this subject of independence there is, again, a marked difference between the four prov- inces first visited and those of Ilocos Sur and La Union. In the former there was more enthusiasm, the sentiment was more of the people; in the lat- ter it was that of the higher class and of the army. In some provinces I saw signs of actual discontent with the existing state of things. There was much variety of feeling among the natives with regard to the debt of gratitude that they owed the United States. In every town I found men who said our nation had saved them '96 THROUGH LUZON. from slavery, and others who claimed that without our interference their independence would have been recognized. On one point they seemed united, viz. : that whatever our government may have done for them it had not gained the right to annex them. They had been prejudiced against us by the Spaniards. The charges made were so numerous and so severe that what the natives had since learned was not sufficient to disillusion them. With regard to our policy toward a subject people, they had received remarkable information on two points; that we have mercilessly slain and finally exterminated the race of Indians that were native to our soil, and that we went to war in 1861 to sup- press an insurrection of negro slaves whom we also ended by extermination. Intelligent and well in- formed men have believed these charges. They were rehearsed to us in many towns in different provinces, beginning at Malolos. The Spanish ver- sion of our Indian problem is particularly well known. The Philippine government had an organized military force in every province we visited. They claim it extended also into Ilocos Norte, Abra, Lepanto, Bontoc, and Benguet. With regard to its existence in Ilocos and Benguet I can speak with assurance. THE MILITARY ELEMENT. 19? We met two officers with the rank of captain who were regularly stationed at Laoag, the capital ciy of Ilocos Norte, and also the commandante of the province of Benguet. The latter officer had come to San Fernando to obtain instructions from General Tino, and was about to return to Trinidad, the capital of that province. The number of troops under arms can only be given approximately. There were comparatively few in Neuva Ecija; an estimated number of not over three hundred. In the military district embracing the province of Neuva Vizcaya, Isabela and Cagayan, Colonel Tir- ona, Commandante Leyba, and Commandante Vil- la agreed in giving the number of soldiers under arms actually, as 2,000. An estimate, founded on the size of the garrisons in the town we visited, would bring the number nearly up to that figure. In the western military districts the forces were about double that number, leaving out those stationed in the interior provinces of Abra, Lepanto and Bontoc, of which I know nothing positively. In the coast provinces of Ilocos Norte, Ilocos Sur and Union, a conservative esti- mate of forces is 3,500. In most pueblos the garri- son was but little larger than those in the towns of the western districts; but there were many bar- rios, each one of which had its guard of soldiers, 198 THROUGH LUZON. never less than twelve. In the eastern military district we met not more than twenty-five officers and in the western district over sixty. There were rifles enough for all, principally Remingtons, but many Mausers. In every cuartel there were at least as many rifles as there were soldiers in the garrison. The arms are more numerous in the eastern than in the western provinces, and it is safe to estimate the number of rifles in the eastern dis- ! trict as at least twice the number of soldiers. Com- mandante Villa and other officers made the statement that 40,000 rifles were being distributed among the people of that district, but we saw no proof of this statement. Ammunition was said to be plentiful, and it appeared so from the fact that the soldiers used it freely in hunting for deer. With regard to the total force of the Philippine army, actual and reserve, I cannot speak from my knowledge. Colonel Tirona claimed that 200,000 men from all the islands could be put in the field well armed, and several other officers independent- ly gave the same figure. Every officer that we saw carried a Spanish sword and revolver. They wear these weapons constantly, but regard them with contempt, prefering the bolo at close quarters. The "Philippina," which was at Aparri during our visit carried two guns of a caliber of about three inches. THE MILITARY ELEMENT. 199 These were the only guns we saw, with the excep- tion of two revolving cannons in the palacio of Malolos. The Spanish had left numerous stock- ades in the wilder regions, and the natives built a few others. There were also numerous barricades thrown up during the insurrection, but in the towns the Spaniards defended themselves in the houses for want of other protection. The military spirit pervaded in the eastern district, where every town and barrio had organized companies of its children, which were being drilled under arms. The officers have had no military education except that which they gained during the insurrection. Spanish drill tactics were used, and most of the of- ficers were still studying the elementary text book. CHAPTER XIII. IN CONCLUSION. FEW comprehended the extent of the Island of Luzon. The Spaniards wrote but little about it, and one of their writers says the Germans have more complete books and a better library concerning the island than Spain itself. The interior has been neglected in the researches al- ready made, by most authors, but Manila is well known and fully described; the mode of life and the inhabitants are familiar to those who have tak- en an interest in the archipelago. While the hab- its of the people seem so different from those in colder latitudes, a short residence in the torrid zone induces one to easily fall into the ways which are customary in tropical spheres. The usual sies- ta in the middle of the day is a means of avoiding the heat of the sun, but when one considers it, there is just so much to be accomplished daily, and it really doesn't matter whether the hours selected are very early in the morning and late in the eve- 200 IN CONCLUSION. aoi ning with a rest during the most trying part of the twenty-four hours, or the regulation period of more northern climes. As to the character of the natives, it is much the same in all parts of Luzon, though in sentiment there is a wide range, as would naturally be the case among different classes of people in any coun- try. Local conditions influence their feelings in such a manner, that what would be beneficial for one district might be the opposite for another. The women are generally hard-working, amia- ble, meek and attentive to their duties. Some handle a needle with exquisite ease and skill, mak- ing rare handkerchiefs of the pina cloth of great value, specimens of which having been sold for three and four hundred dollars ; the texture so fine a magnifying glass only bringing out the delicacy of the innumerable threads. The incessant weeks of labor on these articles only shows how atten- tive and zealous these women are in their indus- try. The men, considering the climate, are good workers, and like human beings the world over, instinctively adjust themselves to conditions pro- vided by nature. They are not phlegmatic, but ra- ther nervous and active. In the interior I found them to possess great endurance, carrying heavy 202 THROUGH LUZON. loads on their backs all day and sleeping but little at night. Mestizos, or the class with foreign and native blood, form an exceedingly important part of the population, one authority claiming there are a half million of Chinese Mestizos, but this is questioned, although this mixture is by far the greatest pro- portion of the whole. Chinese marry native women and have large families, and after some years' residence when sufficient wealth is accum- ulated it is but with few exceptions they don't abandon them and return to China. The Chinese Mestizo is generally shrewder in business than oth- ers of mixed blood. The soil is deep and rich, frequent rains washing into the valleys and plains a ceaseless supply of fer- tilization, but the methods of cultivation are crude, being done by the easy going caribao dragging a plow made of a sharpened stick sometimes pointed with a piece of iron. In the plains of the provinces of Isabela and Cagayan there remain great tracts of virgin soil, nothing but wild grass filling a large part of this vast area of nearly three million and a half acres of teritory. No part is very dif- ficult of access, the Rio Grande and other naviga- ble streams furnishing a waterway to the sea. IN CONCLUSION. 203 The forests are extensive and valuable, having been but little drawn upon up to the present time, and scarcely penetrated in many localities. There are various kinds of hard woods with specific grav- ity so great they will not float, but the widely dis- tributed bamboo and rattan as a substitute for nails and the fronds of the nipa palm for roofs, furnish the principal material for construction, and these are as ceaselessly supplied by nature as cease- lessly taken away. In the mountains there is much to be discovered, but as to mineral wealth I am not assured the pros- pect is inviting for development of large bodies of ores in paying quantities. From the "Guia offi- cial" I translate the following in regard to the geo- logy of the island : "The geological study of the Philippines com- menced some years ago, but has been followed in a dilatory way for lack of personal and other means of completing it. Up to the present, only some partial studies have been published, generally those relating to volcanic action, and the uncompleted work of the Islands of Cebu and Panay, together with that which is being finished of the central part of Luzon. "With the scanty data which is now available an idea can hardly be formed of the geology of the a>4 THROUGH LUZON. islands. It is know that in the archipelago there exists crystalline slates, represented by gneiss, talc, mica and others, with very old eruptive rocks, such as diorite and diabase. It is also known that there are tertiary formations composed of conglomer- ates, gravel, clay and lime, with coal and numer- ous volcanic formations, as well as tertiary and con- temporaneous, characterized by trachyte, andesite and basalt, with spongy stone of these same rocks; and those alluvial and diluvial. No evidence is found at the present time that leads to the certain- ty of the presence of rocks comprised between the crystalline and tertiary periods, and therefore it is supposed that during the long process of time of these geological epochs, the islands were composed of other smaller ones, which were united to form those known to-day of greater size. "For example. Luzon was once represented by three islands in the form of a horseshoe, consisting of the Caraballo and Sierra Madre Mountains. During the tertiary epoch, the volcanic action commenced to manifest itself with colossal mag- nitude, forming the Cordilleras and Mountains of Marivels and not only deposited enormous quan- tities of volcanic scoria, but elevated the sub- merged surroundings of the ancient coast of the crystalline islands and coral reefs, to the altitude of IN CONCLUSION. 207 4,000 feet, which is found at Trinidad, the capital of Benguet. All of this volcanic material, sedi- mentary and coral, produced a union of the three small islands of Luzon, as also it must have united others similar in Panay and the large islands of the archipelago ; but at the same time forming a multi- tude of smaller ones, purely volcanic, or of coral reefs, giving the Philippines its present geological aspect." Of the numerous products of the soil it can be said they flourish amazingly. Rice, corn and veg- etables are grown for local consumption ; those for export are of great importance, hemp and sugar leading, followed by tobacco and copra, (the dried meat of the cocoanut) which is much in demand for oil and making fine soaps and cosmetics. The ripe fruit of the cocoanut is made into large rafts and floated down the rivers to market, and the groves of these palms are a very profitable source of revenue. A man with one of these groves can sit under his own "vine and fig tree" and watch nature, the worker, making him. richer day by day with no effort on his part. Cocoa and coffee do not exceed much the local requirements of the people at present, notwith- standing how well adapted the soil in the foot hills is for the growing of these two almost neces- sary articles of commerce. 12 2o8 THROUGH LUZON. Quite as interesting, if not so largely exploited, is the pineapple fiber, from which delicate pina cloth is woven. The threads, or hairs, are exceed- ingly fine, and after careful preparation are put upon a rough hand loom, the fabric produced being the most exquisite that can be had for the finest embroidered handkerchiefs and women's dresses. Some of the specimens exhibited for sale in Ma- nila are so valuable as to be worth many, many times their weight in gold. I saw a woman at work on a piece of pina in a frame, the windows being closed to keep the stirring air from moving the threads, so delicate were they. She told me of having already worked six months on this and it was yet a year before finally completed ; this piece not more than a foot and a half square. How much it would stimulate the gathering of this fiber by sending it to the United States for manufacture on modern looms, remains to be proven by actual experiment. Horses, cattle and sheep seem to flourish with scarcely no attention whatever, grass being every- where as plentiful as water. The carabao is the working animal, Providence having selected this beast as peculiarly fitted for the soil and climate. Where the land is dry the native has a pond or mud hole for the carabao to lie in during the time IN CONCLUSION. 209 his owner is enjoying a siesta, and they work most harmoniously together with a seeming mysterious understanding one of the other. Good roads are the greatest crying need of the island, and some sort of poll tax to aid construction is a necessary means of cheapening the cost of transportation from the fields to market. They can't be built in a day, but a regularly planned sys- tem of highways connecting important points, is a certain means of rapid development, as shown by the condition of the towns on the road built along the west coast by the Spanish government many years ago, when Spain must have forgotten herself in a moment of intelligent thought. Our New England ancestors appreciated this by the post- roads still in use in some eastern states, a monu- ment to their foresight. I have emphasized the great need of railways, and it is so pressing the government may find itself justified in aiding the building of a main line through the interior. It would be hailed with de- light by the native inhabitants, who are fond of traveling from place to place in seach of amuse- ment, or spending their money in new and novel ways. It would thereby bring them into close knowledge of each other, and thus learn of what- ever advancement is in progress, in different com- 2io THROUGH LUZON. munities, to say nothing of the commercial ad- vantages derived from opening large tracts of ara- ble territory for the development of which a vast amount of American machinery would be necessa- ry. I think it is admitted that the railroad is the greatest of all civilizers. An important matter, not to be forgotten, is the rapid spread of the English language by railway building. Business being done and accounts kept in English will perforce induce the native to has- tily acquire it for obtaining employment, as they have Spanish. Manila is one of the most important shipping ports in the far east, and it would seem a good base for a starting point for spreading American influ- ence and commerce throughout the whole conti- guous countries of the orient. It is difficult to form a distinct idea of whatever territory of the tropics, says some writer, without having visited it and gone through the forests and vegetation, the most gigantic and magnificent of the east, where the panorama of nature shows at each step innumerable pictures of grandure that exist, and when once seen, never forgotten. Many points are favorable in Luzon for man, in passing his dreamy life away in full fruition of ease and comfort, in whose happy clime his needs grow IN CONCLUSION. aij at his doorway where hunger, and cold, misery and want, are unknown quantities. As to the future condition of the island, there are a dozen theories. But time is a great healer of political wounds, and I incline to the belief that at no very distant date this problem will be properly solved by the good judgment of the people of the United States as represented by those in authority. CHAPTER XIV. APPENDIX. THE views of an Englishman, long a resident of Manila, published the following in a newspaper of that city, and also gave val- uable evidence before the Philippine Commission. His views are so concise I have added them to this book. He says: * * * The power of the priests is now gone, and Spanish rule follows in its wake as an impossibility under the present circum- stances. From the foregoing and owing to the in- nate corruption in the administration of the colo- ny's resources, the rebellion of August, 1896, in progress for ten years previously, broke out, and might have overturned the government then but for weak leading, and the unpreparedness of the rebels to fight, as the Spanish in all the islands, a large proportion of them in Mindanao, only num- bered 3,000, their other forces consisting of some 14,000 natives; a strong hand could, however, nipped the thing in the bud there and then, but 214 APPENDIX. 215 the Governor General, Blanco, was mildly disposed and with the few whites at his command and fear- ing a rising among his natives, he looked upon discretion as the better part of valor until he should get reinforcements from the Mother Coun- try to enable him to dispense with the services of the natives troops, the disaffected among them be- ing in the meantime disarmed. His policy was not universally approved, and his opponents plotted at court and got him removed. Shortly thereafter his successor, Polavieja, turned up with some reinforcements,but they were raw re- cruits that had to be drilled into shape and while they were being prepared the rebels were strongly intrenching themselves, chiefly in the province of Cavite. It required energetic measures to dis- lodge them, but Polavieja was equal to the occa- sion, and after going at them vigorously, a hue and cry of "cruelty" was put forth by the priests and their friends and he in his turn was recalled. Then followed the famous Primo de Revera who arrived in April, 1897. He took effective meas- ures to quell the insurrection and succeeded well, but his finishing stroke was most unfortunate. He got tired of the country and wished to go to Spain, but with a feather in his cap for effectually closing the rebellion, so he got instructions from Madrid 2 '6 THROUGH LUZON. to adopt, at his discretion, one of two alternatives, force or buying off the rebels for laying down their arms. As bad luck would have it he chose the lat- ter, while the other was quite feasible, the few dis- banded insurgents having been reduced almost to the last extremity, no food, but few arms, and no money to go on with a more favorable opportunity to settle the thing for many years to come could hardly present itself. But as is "charitably" sur- mised, the paying off suited Primo's pocket better than the other alternative, and he concluded the celebrated "Pacto de Bic-na-Bato," the full text of which was kept secret, but the contents oozed out gradually, the principal item being, after the ex- pulsion of the friars, a cash payment of $800,000, one-half in Hong Kong and the balance in the Philippines, upon the few remaining rebels laying down their arms, the leaders, thirty-five to forty in number, agreeing to reside outside the island and not to return without the consent of the Phil- ippine government in due form, six months from December, 1897, being allowed to either side to complete the contract. The government placed the Hong Kong half of the money at Aguinaldo's disposal in due course, but how the other half went seems not to have been satisfactorily explained; possibly Primo or some tarry-fingered gentleman APPENDIX. ;7 in his confidence could tell. Anyhc *, trie money is said to have left the treasury, and many of the rebels are said to have complained of not getting their share. The expulsion of the friars was vetoed from Madrid, and the Hong Kong portion of the bribe, partly at least, were used by the rebels to purchase fresh arms with which to prosecute the rebellion. Before the six months were up, each side accus- ing the other of non-fulfillment of the compact, the rebellion started again with more vigor than ever. Meantime Don Primo was relieved, but ordered to await the arrival of his successor, Signer Augustin, and after Augustine's arrival, was, in view of his having cried "peace, peace, when there was no peace," ordered to await further instructions from the Supreme government before quitting the coun- try. Don Primo telegraphed, asking if the order was imperative, but without giving time for a re- ply he embarked by the direct boat for Spain, leav- ing poor Augustin in the pickle of having to cope with the rebels and the declaration of war by America a few hours later. The man naturally considered himself "sold," and Primo landed in Barcelona "incog," his present whereabouts being uncertain. He is said to have denied, at home, having made an alleged compact with the rebels, ai8 THROUGH LUZON. but that he did make it there is no doubt what- ever, while he flunked facing the consequences. The next big mistake made in this rebel business was by the Americans in having had anything to do with Aguinaldo, and the mistake will at once be apparent when it can be demonstrated as clear as daylight that the Americans could have done all they did without any rebel aid. Now, however, it is not quite so easy to get rid of the inconvenient connection Aguinaldo, a deified, ignorant Indian with a swollen head, but empty for all practical purposes. Timidity verging on cowardice is his chief characteristic. He never fought a battle in his life, and is afraid to leave his room for fear of being "knifed" by some kind countryman whom he has wronged. A further mistake was in letting him have any part in reducing the Spaniards in their trenches or in the entrance upon the taking of Manila on the I3th of August. Before this day the rebels should have been ordered away at least ten miles and their arms taken from them, fasten- ing them down to accomplished facts as they are no more fit to govern than "a flock of goats" would be. The chiefs of the rebels are pettyfogging law- yers known among them as "abogadilles," hang- ers on at the petty courts, stirring up strife among APPENDIX. 219 the litigants to encourage suits and considered a "pest to the colony," as their aim is to squeeze as much money as possible out of the lieges with the least possible labor to themselves. This life has inured them to the idea that as they are of the "learned professions, " it would be infra dig to work. It would be a fine thing to have a native government with a post in it where they could rob and steal ad lib., and live on the fat of the land at the public expense. It is needless to say that the end would be very shortly that of the "Kilkenny Cats" without a doubt. It would be a mistake to temporize with people of such low intelligence, as they cannot understand leniency from Europeans unless on the supposition that it is due to fear. In the great Indian mutiny the British were severely criticised the world over for blowing rebels from the cannon's mouth, but it was the only way, and their sway has been ever since undisturbed, prac- tically governing 250,000,000 with an army of only 70,000, including Sepoys, Sikhs, Goorkhs and Europeans. The Spaniards should have been se- verer in discipline while just in treatment, and then these wretched semi-savages would not have got- ten the upper hand. The proportions reached by the present rising is without doubt due to encouragement at the begin- M THROUGH LUZON. ning from the Americans, and the situation thus created imposes upon them the obligation of re- storing order and of not leaving the islands unless replaced by a strong government of Europeans, that of Spain being out of the question, and the natives might be ripe for such a responsibility about the year 2000, i. e., when the present and three more generations shall have disappeared, it being calculated that this time is necessary to erad- icate the pernicious effects of priestly rule, a uni- formly immoral administration in church and state, and to spread sound education and teach habits of honest industry among the people. A great writer described the Spaniards generally as "full of honor without honesty, full of religion without morality, and full of pride without any- thing to be proud of," and the average native may be said to have picked up and appropriated all that is bad in the European and nothing of the good, being adept at lying, stealing, gambling, and all other vices imaginable, with indolence to a fault, good dancers and a good ear for music. There are a good few, it is true, who are peaceable workers, and these are an exception to the general descrip- tion here given. Many make useful and efficient clerks in merchant's offices, banks and other places of business. Some are capital imitators of Euro- A TYPE OF NATIVE. APPENDIX. 223 pean art in silver and gold work, wood carving, etc., and there are thousands of good agricultural laborers throughout these islands. As a fighter not much can be said for him in a face to face en- counter, his fortress being the "bolo" and stabbing in the back, and why the Spaniards did not put down the rising at the outset can be only due to the latter having forgotten, if they ever knew, what modern warfare is, as in the last five months their bearing so much lauded consisted in their hiding in trenches, much of their time up to their hinder parts in water, to be "swiped" by the rebels, who from behind clumps of bamboos show their fiercest fire by letting off Chinese crackers at night time, never showing face during the day. The Span- iards at starting, in the most innocent fashion, al- lowed themselves to be surrounded by the rebels, who made prisoners of this big half of their force of about 12,000, and then they had too few left to attack, and could only be on the defensive, and re- turning from trench to trench before the Indians, the cry being "The Spaniards retreating, retreat- ing the natives advancing, advancing." Now the Americans are in possession of these much coveted islands, this problem comes to be how best to turn this valuable acquisition to ac- count, and at a glance it will be seen that the re- 224 THROUGH LUZON. bellion once got under and the rebels disarmed a sine qua non as at present there are two gov- ernments in full swing, the rebels ruling and col- lecting all taxes from the outskirts of Manila into the interior, and the Americans the few taxes of the city and port, a state of things that cannot be allowed to last much longer; it will not answer to attempt a government on western lines and ideas right off, as habits and customs of three centuries old can not well be changed in a day, and it will be necessary to introduce new reforms gradually, dovetailing such as far as possible with existing systems. What would of course suit this country is, of course, the "open door," which has given such ad- mirable results in Singapore, the Straits Settle- ments and Hong Kong, the last named only a bar- ren rock at the start, but now the third shipping port of the world. The policy recommended would therefore be no custom house, no coast guard, thus saving a vast amount in the expense of govern- ment. In regard to foreign labor, there is no question of competing with American labor here, being no such in the country, nor can there be, the climate prohibiting that, so the reported prohibition of Chinese immigration seems inexplicable, and the APPENDIX. 225 law in force in the United States is certainly mis- applied in the Philippines, where cheap labor and plenty of it is their lifeblood. This will be seen where a large proportion of the crops, sugar and other produce is left in the field from want of hands to gather them. These islands, as will be seen, are very sparsely populated. Luzon of a larger area than England, having only 3 1-2 millions all told, or a little over one-tenth of England's figure. There is room for three to four millions of Chinese comfortably, whilst only 200,000 are the present estimate. The place cannot get on without them, and were any road making, railway or agriculture work being done, at least a million Chinese would be absorbed right off. It seems ridiculous that when the Hong Kong scale of wages is as follows, viz. : Coolies, 25 to 30 cts. a day, carpenters 50 to 60 cts., while the rate here is 75 cts., $1.25 to $1.40, respectively. Since immigration stopped a first class cook in Hong Kong gets $12 to $15, and here an indiffer- ent one $30 to $35 a month. The mire Pasig dredged out to the mouth of the lake and points cut down to make the naviga- tion easy for decent passenger steamers, would im- mediately attract capital to put on daily, morning and evening service, which the populace could 226 THROUGH LUZON. and would gladly avail to pass their nights in the many cool spots ferrying the lake, enjoying the freshest of country air, the larger half of the twen- ty-four hours. Why should there be any sickness in this most healthful of tropical climates, when by an hour morning and evening in the train one could sleep in a temperature of 40, 50 or 60 to his liking? No heat in the daytime would be felt af- ter a cool night, and in a very short time this de- sirable basin of water, the "Laguna de Bay," 25 by 20 miles, in its greatest dimensions, would be stud- ded over with jackets and pleasure craft of any kind, to afford pleasureable recreation. The short I2omile railway put down by Eng- lishmen gives a faint idea of what a network of railroads could do, but quite enough to show what a profitable investment such roads can be in this country under a liberal up-to-date government. Roads good roads and railroads would send these islands ahead by leaps and bounds, and ma- terial progress would be the sure precursor of the light of civilization shut out from these unfortun- ate parts by the most selfish and despoic of govern- ments, that of the priest and his dupes. Why European governments who have been for cen- turies opening up and civilizing the darkest coun- tries should have overlooked the Philippines seems inexplicable. APPENDIX. 2*7 The resources are practically unlimited, and when the islands shall have been fully explored and brought under subjection, the country will pro- bably be found to be the richest unexplored terri- tory in the known world. The explanation is the cursed priest-ridden government that sucked the life-blood out of the country now happily driven out forever, but unfortunately to enjoy the stolen millions securely invested in every safe country we know of. Let us take Luzon first to give a faint idea of known resources. In the north a rich and extens- ive tobacco country, where qualities equal to Cuba can be procured, and coming south the two Tlacos provinces are rich sugar and rice lands. In the long range of mountains' practical- ly unexplored, copper, iron, gold, and other metals and minerals exist, with extensive pine forests, and land that produces exquisite pota- toes and all other vegetables, and a climate where no one could complain of heat nor sickness. In his testimony before the Philippine Commis- sion, Mr. McLeod, long a resident of Manila, made the following interesting statement, which I have considered of such importance that I wish to add it to this book. He says as follows : 228 THROUGH LUZON. Mr. McLeod: You have got to make roads where they do not now exist, and have to make railways where they do not exist. This is the fin- est country for railroads that I ever saw. The Manila-Dagupan was a great mistake because they laid it too low. They went on the plans of the Spaniards and actually began to build on them. In some parts they laid rails for a mile and found they couldn't go any farther and had to take an- other route, expending three or four times the money they ought to have with a proper survey. For instance they brought the line down to a big river at Calumpit, where, after going down 60 feet, they couldn't find a solid foundation for their cais- sons, nor find any bottom there. However they put the bridge there and the first flood carried it away. They had to change the direction of the railway and go up the river, where they could find bottom, and that one mistake cost $300,000. This road cost about eight million dollars gold for the 1 20 miles, but was guaranteed by the Spanish gov- ernment at eight per cent., or such portion of eight per cent, as the earnings of the company would fall short of that amount. I consider this the finest country in the world for building railways, by run- ning lines around the poulous villages from Tarlac. The present lack of communication is the reason APPENDIX. M9 for the country being so far behind, and the mo- ment you put in a network of railways there will be a nenormous improvement. I had in view a line of road up the mountains where a sanitorium could be established, at Antipolo. From Manila as the crow flies is about six miles. I was just go- to take a line from Manila to Santa Ana, crossing the river at that point and going up to San Juan and up to Mariquins and from there to Antipolo. By that means we take in the populous villages, where there is traffic all the time. There in May it is a great place for pilgrims. It is the shrine of the virgin, and crowds of people go there from all parts of the country to worship. We calculated that without any assistance from the government at all, could make it pay from this pilgrim business, but when the government saw that we were going to put down the line they exacted a deposit of a large amount, much larger than we had contem- plated. The elevation of Antipolo is 600 feet, but the hills back of it are three or four times that height, and the climate is superb. Lack of communication has been the greatest drawback to the Philippines, allowing vast stretches of fertile land to remain idle for want of means of getting the products to market. It has also caused the different dialects in each province, ajo THROUGH LUZON. and the same would develop in the United States in time if intermingling were prevented by roads and railroads, and sooner or later each state would have a language peculiar to itself. Another most important line for which I believe a franchise has been asked, is from Manila to Bay- ombong, a distance of 200 miles, and it would in- crease the product 100 per cent, through the dif- ferent provinces and not cost one-half what the Manila-Dagupan line did, $60,000 per mile. This road would eventually connect with one coming up the Rio Grande from Aparri on the north coast, passing through the enormous provinces of Caga- yan and Isabela the former a populous district and rich in tobacco, corn, timber, cattle and rice. The major portion of tobacco of the Philippines comes from Isabela, and is of a superior quality, This great valley commences at Bagabag and the distance to Bayombong would not be difficult en- gineering to cross the Cordilleras. The country is pretty level from Aparri to the base of the mountains. The Cagayan valley is very extensive, lying between the mountains on the extreme east and the Cordilleras on the west, well drained and comparatively level, with a great expanse of till- able soil. This line in cutting through the center of Luzon is of great value as a means of opening APPENDIX. 231 the country and bringing the people into contact with each other. Freight on the existing Manila- Dagupan line is not so great a proportion of the earnings as passenger business. The people are very fond of the train, and the same persons go every day nearly ; a man with a couple of chickens and a basket will come down and make just enough to go back again. There is no doubt as to the fertility of the soil, and seems to produce all kinds of things without the slightest bother. The Phil- ippines are the richest places in the East, and I don't know a thing that anybody owns which is more valuable. With feeders to the main trunk line through the Island of Luzon, in such places as warranted it, treble the amount of land thereby brought under cultivation will increase the taxable value propor- tionately with the increased population. Wood for ties lay all along the projected route and labor is cheap, these Indians working for 32 cents silver a day or about half that, 16 cents in gold. The In- dian is a fairly good worker when not in competi- tion with the Chinaman. The Chinese are an ever- lasting source of trouble and one thoroughly dis- liked by all natives. They have caused dissent equal to that on the Pacific slope of the United States. You find him everywhere in the provinces 3* THROUGH LUZON. as small store keeper and peddlers; a curious fea- ture is, being so despised by the men, they marry Philippine women, first becoming Catholics to do so, and have large families, which they desert and return to China in a few years after accumulating a small fortune. As little as the Indian lives on, the Chinaman can subsist on less, and never spends a cent in the country, but any money he makes is at once remitted to China. In many places they won't have Chinese at all, but the Spaniards allowed them to come in by paying $50 or $100. They are useful but unpopular among the natives, and the westejos are always troublesome, and all bad, do not bring their wives, should be excluded ex- laborers to perform certain contracts, and when that was accomplished returned to their own coun- try. They cannot live with the natives, as the Fili- pinos will kill them. Exclusion will not affect in- dustries, 50 cents a day Mexican or 25 cents gold. Native spends all his earnings while Chinese drain the country. A Chinese has two principal motives for enter- ing the Catholic Church: That of possessing a God-father in baptism, who became a sort of pro- tector for him ; and also marriage with the woman whom he loved and who would refuse to live with him without the guarantee of Christian marriage. APPENDIX. 233 Becoming a Christian might be considered a lux- ury with a Chinese, for in order to do so it is nec- essary for the Chinese to have a considerable for- tune to give his godfather, as is the custom, hand- some presents, and to pay the dues of the church, and afterwards pay the expenses of his house in his new condition. Once a Christian the Chinese found himself in favorable circumstances, on account of the influ- ence of his godfather, who was always chosen from among the Spaniards of most prestige and best position in the country. To be a Christian was enough to insure his business would progress with greater security. All the Chinese who have ob- tained importance in the Philippines have been Christians; their baptism was their initiation into power. These already established in the country with their families take no part, although they are Christians, in the prayers and devotion of their wives and children, although they respect their customs with that tolerance which is usually met in individuals of the highest education. A short study of the importance of Chinese commerce shows how the Spanish government favored them, and why most righteously, they were hated by the natives. They were given right to farm out provincial taxes, and other services J4 THROUGH LUZON. offered for public bidding, such as public markets, slaughter houses, inspection of weights and meas- ures, taxes on cart horses, cockpits, places for smoking opium, etc. In Isabela and Cagayan, a short time before the governmental tobacco monopoly was abolished, there were very few Chinese, and their action in business was insignificant, and the Spanish gov- ernment paid the owners of the tobacco crops punctually. Nevertheless, a time came in which the Spanish administration was behind in nearly all of its payments principally in the most im- portant ones and the planters of these provinces were among the many victims of these delays. The Chinese then took advantage of the pre- carious situation by making usurious loans to those who lacked the means of realizing on their crops, thus securing the business of these fertile prov- inces, both by the means of the capital which they advanced, and in the handling and monopoly of tobacco. Their commercial supremacy reached such a point that once they had monopolized to- bacco, almost every leaf which came to Manila from Cagayan and Isabela was their property, and they stored it in the warehouses and sold it later to the factories already established in the capital at a good profit. APPENDIX. 235 They were not contented with the sale of tobac- co in the leaf alone, but they also established fac- tories to manufacture it, thus causing other fac- tories which had been in operation to close up by the ruinous competition which the Chinese raised against them. While the Chinese are no disturbing element politically, their progeny are a bad lot the mesti- zos, and are constantly stirring things up, and the hope of the Filipinos is their exclusion and pro- hibited immigration. 3 1158 00470 3764 A 000578 643