WHARFDALE ; 
 
 OR, A 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 OF THE SEVERAL 
 
 DELIGHTFUL FEATURES 
 
 OF THAT 
 
 EXTENSIVE, SPLENDID AND FASCINATING 
 
 VALLEY, 
 
 INTERSPERSED WITH OTHER 
 
 TOPOGRAPHICAL ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 OF ITS 
 
 TOWNS AND VILLAGES. 
 
 To a rising ground, 
 
 From whence I did a pleasant vale surrey ; 
 Large was the prospect, beautiful, and gay. 
 There 1 beheld th' apartments ot delight. 
 Whose curious forms oblig'd the wand'ring sight. 
 Some in full view upon the champaign plac'd, 
 With lofty walls, and cooling streams embrac'd : 
 Others, in shady groves, retir'd from noise, 
 The seats of private and exalted joys. 
 
 POMFRET. 
 
 OTLEY: 
 
 PRINTED AND SOLD BY W. WALKER ; 
 
 SOLD ALSO BY LONGMAN AND CO. AND B. AND R. 
 
 CROSBY AND CO., LONDON ; WILSON AND SON, 
 
 YORK ; AND HEATON, AND ROBINSON AND 
 
 SON, LEEDS. 
 
 1813.
 
 PRIMARY REMARKS 
 
 ON 
 
 WHAKFBAL.E; 
 
 ITS SITUATION, EXTENT, GENERAL FACE OF 
 
 COUNTRY, AND STATE OF AGRICULTURE 
 
 DESCRIBED. 
 
 there are, no doubt, who may look 
 into this small volume with the expectation 
 of obtaining from it such a general kno.v- 
 ledge of the Valley of the Wharfe as they 
 could wish to possess of the whole of the 
 Island in which they live, whether remarka- 
 ble for beauty or otherwise. Such are trades- 
 men, farmers, and almost every class of the 
 middle rank. To those, also, who may take 
 up the book for amusement, such a summary 
 as is here proposed, will be highly necessary, 
 that whilst they are going over the descrip- 
 tion of its curiosities they may assign to them 
 their proper places, without confusion en- 
 tering in their ideas. 
 
 The Wharfe is one of those rivers which 
 add so greatly to the beauty of Yorkshire, 
 and contribute so much to the aid of its 
 commerce. It rises towards the limits be- 
 tween Westmoreland and the West-Riding, 
 A 

 
 2 PRIMARY REMARKS ON WHARFDALE, 
 
 at no great distance also from the County 
 of Lancaster; and after pursuing a S. East- 
 ern course of between sixty and seventy 
 miles it mixes its waters with the Ouse, that 
 grand reservoir of all the fine streams of the 
 large province in which it flows. This junc- 
 tion of the two rivers is formed near a little 
 village called Nun-Appleton, at the most 
 southern point of the Ainsty, a Division, in 
 Yorkshire, of which the Wharfe is for above 
 a dozen miles the boundary. Wharfdale- 
 proper extends no farther along this line 
 than about twenty miles, beginning in the 
 West with the most eastern point of that 
 mountainous tract named Craven, and fi- 
 nishing atHurewood, in the East. Wharldale, 
 and not Wluirfdale, was till within the last 
 30 or 40 years the usual term applied to this 
 part of the valley; but no man of taste can 
 refuse to adopt the more modern name, 
 which has its derivation so directly from the 
 charming stream that animates the scene. 
 
 The valley, that accompanies the river 
 from its source to its extinction in the Ouse, 
 has certainly a right to the appellation of 
 Wharfdale; but very po-verful reasons, to- 
 gether with the sanction of custom have de- 
 te.rmined that it should be given only to this
 
 REMARKS ON WHARFDALE. 9 
 
 distinguished part of the valley. These 
 powerful reasons are, the insignificancy of 
 the deep but narrow dell that for many miles 
 enclose s the river in the West, the low state" 
 of Agriculture and unconquerable barren- 
 ness of soil in many of those parts; and the 
 dull flatness which in the East entirely takes 
 away the beautiful majesty and endless va- 
 riety attending a hilly country. Hence here 
 was a necessity of conveying an idea of the 
 superiority, in the name, of Wharfdale. On 
 each side, the borders of Wharfdale are mar- 
 ked by lofty ranges of steeps, chiefly crown- 
 ed with frowning rocks. These are continu- 
 ed, in heaving grandeur, the whole length 
 of the valley with only two interruptions; 
 one where the tributary stream of the Wash- 
 burn is hastening with quick impatience to 
 throw itself into the Wharfe; the other where 
 a fertile plain opens the valley towards Air-- 
 dale. These hills, or rather mountains, are 
 most of them a mile in rapid descent towards 
 Wharfdale: their back parts towards other 
 valleys, however, are more indeterminate 
 and longer in their declivities. The level 
 space of ground between the hills, laying 
 lengthwise by the sides of the river, is a milr 
 A2
 
 4 PRIMARY REMARKS ON WHARFDALE. 
 
 broad in some places, but in otbers tlie 
 breadth is tvvo miles. 
 
 The low lands on the banks of the stream 
 afford the farmer a rich supply of fruitful 
 soil. This division does not bear much wood: 
 a few large trees only, just sufficient for a 
 comfortable shade for cattle and cottages, 
 nre left standing upon it. The next division 
 is the most woody. This is the hill sides, 
 which are very capable of cultivation even 
 to the summits. An instance of this we have 
 in Chevin where a steep rocky piece of 
 ground, called Great-Dibb, hanging high 
 on that formidable mountain, has lately been 
 broken up and sown, with profit to himself, 
 by the efforts of a Mr. Todd, of the neigh- 
 bourhood of Leeds. Some of the land near 
 the foot of the hills, having been put in cul- 
 tivation within these few years, is at present 
 as productive even as the deep soil on the 
 borders of the river. 
 
 Wharfclale is not crowded with woodsy 
 nor yet does it want for a few very fine thriv- 
 ing plantations, which, while they will never 
 conceal its beauties, are daily adding to 
 their picturesque effect. The shady woods 
 of Middelton and Denton in the western 
 parts of the valley, each cover from ten to
 
 PRIMARY REMARKS ON WHARFDALE. * 
 
 one hundred acres. Lindley wood, not far 
 from Otley, is at least a mile in length, and 
 a growing plantation of firs on Chevin 
 stretches over the same extent of ground. 
 Besides these, among the woods which con- 
 tribute to the embellishment of Wharfdale 
 -and the gain of its proprietors, must be num- 
 bered those of RiiVa and Harewood. On the 
 tops of the hills in the western part of Wharf- 
 dale, ling and rocks, the ancient tenants of 
 the soil, remain in general undisturbed by 
 the training hand of industry; the necessi- 
 ties of man must become great, very great 
 indeed, before they induce him to manure 
 the spungy marshes with which the summits 
 abound. 
 
 Grazing, or feeding cattle with grass is, 
 most prevalent with Wharfdalean farmers. 
 Much grain, how ever, is sown towards Hare- 
 wood. 
 
 Wharfdale is extremely well watered. 
 This necessary article of life it receives in 
 such abundance from the neighbourhood 
 of the surrounding heights. These emit an 
 infinity of little streams, 
 
 "and all the glitt'ring bill 
 Is brig-lit with spouting rills" 
 
 which afterwards ripple through the mea-
 
 & PRIMARY REMARKS ON WHARFDALE.. 
 
 dows in a thousand directions, here assenl- 
 bling their waters, or there, perhaps, singly: 
 proceeding towards their common proprie- 
 tary river. 
 
 The consequences of the native advanta- 
 ges of the valley, its worthy Gentlemen and 
 Landholders seem unwilling to destroy. Its 
 farms rarely exceed two hundred pounds a 
 year in rent; the case is, that a great part of 
 them are under the accounted annual value 
 of one hundred pounds. By thus parcelling 
 out their estates into small farms, they have 
 troduced much independency among the 
 Aiiddle or lower rank of people; and also 
 tnuch industry by granting them leasehold 
 tenures. For thus there are many masters 
 that enjoy an independence; an independ- 
 ence the very enjoyment of which diffuses 
 the same blessing on others, who can the- 
 inore easily, upon being oppressed by one 
 master, remove under another. How lease- 
 hold tenures encourage improvement, by as- 
 guringthepeasantofasufficientspaceoftime 
 for reimbursing himself, is too self-evident 
 to require an explanation. The names of the 
 Gentlemen above alluded to are, William 
 Middelton, Esq. of Myddelton Lodge; Sir 
 Henry Carr Ibbetson, Bart., Denton Park>
 
 PRIMARY REMARKS ox WHARFDALE. J 
 
 William Vavasour, Esq., Weston Hall; Wal- 
 ter Fawkes. Esq., Farnley Hall, and the Earl 
 of Harevvood, Harevvood House; besides se- 
 veral others whose influence may not be so 
 great as that of those just named. The beau- 
 tiful seats of these Gentlemen are the first 
 objects to catch the eye, and perhaps may 
 mare engage the attention of the traveller 
 than even the natural elegance of this ex- 
 quisite valley. 
 
 In describing the state of Agriculture in 
 \Vharfdale, the Agricultural Society, estab- 
 lished at Otley, certainly ought not to be 
 passed over in silence. In the list of its 
 members are found the names of some of the 
 most powerful Gentlemen in the neighbour- 
 hood. I need only say that most of those I 
 have just now mentioned, and many others 
 of great landed property are among them. 
 There can therefore be no doubt but that 
 the grand designs for which they have asso- 
 ciated, the improving of the breeds of cattle, 
 and encouraging improvements in the me- 
 thods of tilling land, in this part of the king- 
 dom, will eventually succeed. By distribu- 
 ting premiums to those who brought the 
 greatest numbers of cattle to market, the 
 Agricultural Society has also formed a fort-
 
 8 PRIMARY REMARKS ON WHARFDAI^E, 
 
 'night fair in the town. This, I believe, will 
 be found of great benefit to Otley and to a 
 large extent of country northward, as soon 
 as the supplies by the drovers, which are es- 
 sentially necessary, shall have contributed 
 to the establishment of the mart. 
 
 No manufactures, of consequence to the 
 nation in general, with the reserve of the 
 Cotton Mills at Addingham and Green- 
 holm, are carried on in Wharfdale*
 
 WHARFDALE; 
 
 OR, A DESCKIITION OF THE SEVERAL 
 DELIGHTFUL FEATURES 6cc. 
 
 JT may not be amiss, in the first place, to 
 introduce my readers to an acquaintance 
 with the WIIARFE,* at the fountain of the 
 stream; as so principal an object among the 
 charms of Wharfdale justifies such a. parti- 
 ality in its favor, llising in several small rills 
 on the east side of the lofty and majestic 
 mountain Cam, the currents unite in one 
 course from the foot of the parent steep; and 
 proceed eastward 8 miles, through the long 
 range of a narrow valley, which brings the 
 stream to the foot of the Stake Fell, tower 
 
 * The Romans, according 1 fo their custom of forming 
 imaginary Deities, and assigning to them places <,f ;i- 
 bode in Mountains, -Ri\ers <S;c. made Yerbeia the God- 
 dess-Nymph of the current of the Y\ harte, as appears 
 by the copy of a Roman Inscription, found at 1 kl< \ , 
 which will l>e given in the description ot that v.Jage. 
 Hence Mr. YV hitaker, who wrote the History ot' Man- 
 chester, is inclined to derive the name of the river Ircm 
 " Verb. " The opinion of that celebrated Antiquary, 
 Camden, who Mould deduce it from " Guerf" is rather 
 to be believed. This word, which is Sa\<m, M-i,i'.'.-c 
 swiftness; and the supposition is fully justified l>y tin: 
 -rapidity oftlie river. 
 
 B
 
 1C WHARFDALB. 
 
 ing above the village of Buckden. Hence 
 the Wharfe alters its direction to the S. S. E. 
 which continues to be its inclination till it 
 enter the dale which the river distinguishes 
 with its name. Receiving a considerable 
 increase at Kettlewell from the sides of the 
 hdge dark mountain Whernside, it pursues 
 an enlarged course more than 2 miles, when 
 it .admits the influx of a tributary river whose 
 size nearly equals its, own. The junction is 
 remarkable, as both streams throw them- 
 selves into a kind of bason hollowed in their 
 common bed, where the waters repose, and 
 then issue out at the opposite end. The 
 Skirfare (the name of this new river) is a ve- 
 ry interesting stream, swift, wide, clear, and 
 copious. Its bed spread with pebbles ap- 
 pears through the transparent waves, at dif- 
 ferent depths. TUe spacious open valley 
 through which it traces its way, is as well 
 wooded, pastured, and inhabited as is equal 
 to the production pf very picturesque sce- 
 nery; while the top of the celebrated Peni- 
 gent, where this river has its source, fills up 
 and closes the prospect.* 
 
 * The height of Penigent, as lately ascertained by 
 Capt. Mudge's National Survey, is 2270 feet, and of 
 Whurnsidu in Kettlewell- dale 2263 feet, above the level 
 .oj'thesea.
 
 WHARFDALB. )t 
 
 From the Skirfare the river Wharfe atf- 
 sumes a widened channel, and winds along 
 an extensive valley in which it diffuses fer- 
 tility. In this district the rocks are promi- 
 nentobjects, both in thesttrrounding grounds 
 and in the river itself. Kilnsey Crag nobly 
 and boldly arrests attention, advancing near- 
 ly midway into the vale. It impends awful- 
 ly over its base, with a vast bulk of super-in- 
 cumbent high land, which the sullen rock 
 seems stiffening itself to support. The base 
 of the cliff is cleft from the mass above, as a 
 pedestal to the monstrous leaning columns 
 which are rooted in it. The body of the 
 Crag is 55 Yards high. A little lower, on 
 the river, strata of rocks cross-the bed of th 
 stream, where it dashes at several falls in 
 distinct torrents, with a mixture of slow 
 pools, gliding currents, and precipitate was- 
 ter courses. In this singular sort of chan- 
 nel it rudely works- its way for miles; afford- 
 ing numerous specimens of the kinds of rock 
 torrents, contracted or diffuse, divided and 
 flowing different ways- around the islands, 
 or rushing in one collected body, sometimes 
 falling aslant, sometimes perpendicularly^ 
 At the Gastrills, a little above Grassingtoi* 
 B 2
 
 "12 WHARFBALE. ^ 
 
 Bridge, the river running just before in a 
 bed fifty yards broad, enters a small chasm 
 on the surface of strata of stone; and rushes 
 with exceeding rapidity for forty yards be- 
 tvv< en the two brinks, which approach with- 
 in two feet one of another. The passage 
 over the river, which may be so easily effect- 
 ed here, is very commonly practised. A few 
 years since, a Party of Ladies and Gentle- 
 men were crossing, when a Lady, seized with 
 sudden apprehension, was unable to extend 
 her foot to the opposite brink, and fell with 
 her partner into the furious fissure; a single 
 moment was passing, and their friends awak- 
 ing to recollected horror, when, happy to 
 say, they were instantly ejected upon the 
 shallow strand which succeeds the rock, 
 where recovering their dispersed sense, they 
 had received no other injury than that done 
 to their clothes.* 
 
 Twenty-three miles from its source, after 
 collecting the fine full rivulets of the wide 
 valley which accompanies it towards Apple- 
 treewick, the Wharfe enters a more seclud- 
 ed pass, 'twisting between the approaching 
 mountains; a line of trees fringes the banks. 
 
 * This Anecdote is related in Dr. Whitaker's Histon 
 of Craven, Note, page 199, first Edition
 
 WHARF0ALE. '13 
 
 indicating its course, at the same time screen- 
 ing it from inspection. The lonely ruin of 
 Harden Tower, holding a fore-ground stati- 
 on in this wild vale, seems as a solemn sen- 
 try to the shadowy crags aloft on the adjoin- 
 ing precipices, to the sweeping heaths be- 
 neath them and the silvan glens at the bottom. 
 It is in the solitary recesses of one of the 
 deepest of these wooded dells, that the grand- 
 est cascades of the Wharfe, with the tremen- 
 dous terrific gulf of the Strid, occur. There 
 is, half a mile below Barden Tower, a deep 
 cut down the blocks of rock that occupy the 
 bed of the river; \\hich is broad enough to 
 admit the stream in a low state, in such de- 
 termined rapidity that the whole passage of 
 30 yards throws the volume of water into 
 one white tumultuous foam. From this force 
 the torrent races amongst the rocks, but in a, 
 more settled tenour; and occasionally spreads 
 itself to the breadth which the river retains 
 where it runs between banks of green sward. 
 Lower, the rough shores close more upon 
 the rolling flood; and tbe body of the water, 
 turning a crag, shoots into a deep cleft that 
 is diagonal to the direction of the cataractj 
 but there is no space for momentary repose,, 
 the impetuous billows furiously pursue the-
 
 14 WHARFDAEE. 
 
 sloping descent of the cleft, while the collar 
 teral falls precipitate from the surrounding 
 rocks into the stormy trough with added tu- 
 mults; then, darting and eddying against a 
 massy cliff, the torrent declines into an un- 
 fathomable chasm. Thus the river is in- 
 cluded in the hideous jaws of the Stnd, a line 
 of water for 50 yards separating the collect- 
 ed rocks on its margin, where it is bait two 
 yards over, above the visible part of the flood, 
 Midway along the edge of the gulf, is a spot 
 opposite to which, not four feet from it, 
 there is a large flat topt stone, to which a 
 person may stride across the current; and 
 hence the place has obtained its- name.* 
 
 * " It was in stepping 1 this gulf that the last male 
 "heir of the family of Romelius lost his lite. It is re- 
 *'ported ttrbe in the act of passing the river with a led 
 "greyhound, -and the animal not making' its efforts in 
 *'the passage of the Strid at the same time with its mas- 
 "ter, checked the step of the youth, by which he was 
 "precipitated into the torrent and lost, A memento of 
 "Iris tragic end was said to be preserved in a picture with 
 "the attending dog-, 1670; a subject, one should ima- 
 "gine, too melancholy to be recorded by either friend 
 "or relation of sympathetic feeling's. This family of 
 "Romelius, was reported to be very ancienf, even so 
 "as to derive their origin from Romelius, a consul: If 
 *'so, might possibly descend from some of the remains 
 "of the Roman body stationed at Ilkley , about lour miles 
 "below, upon the same river. 
 
 "But the Autlior resigns those pretensions to fanciful 
 "Heralds, who probably might trace the family, were 
 it living and in wealth,*up to Romulus and Remus, the
 
 VTOARFDALE. 13 
 
 woody brows ascending directly from 
 the Strid detain a shade to the whole scene, 
 which, characterizes it with an. affecting so- 
 briety that renders it peculiarly impressive. 
 The paths through the woods, which com- 
 modiously conduct among the falls of the 
 river, have a kind of rural carelessness, which 
 is sufficiently significant of the just taste of 
 their noble owner, the late Duke of Devon- 
 shire, who ordered them to be made. On 
 one of these ways we are brought to Bolton 
 Abbey through a mile of the most luxuriant 
 landscape, composed of abundance of wood, 
 water and meadows, which are included by 
 .a mighty amphitheatre of rugged mountains. 
 The interesting remains bespeak the anci- 
 ent richness and beauty of Bolton Abbey in 
 an enchanting and incomparable manner; 
 but their situation is the most exquisitely 
 fascinating that ever eyes beheld. When 
 the refined idea of a retirement to retreat to 
 
 "great founders of the Roman empire. Be this as it 
 "may, the house of Rome. ins had vast possessions, and 
 "that extensive district which now goes by the rumbling 
 "name nf Humbles, or Rumballs Moor, lormerh went 
 "by the more liquid appellation ot Romclius's'.Moor; 
 "the modern term l>eiiig only a corrupted contraction. 
 "The Lady RoWlius, the fast of the family, married 
 ^into the house of Cliffords." 
 
 NOTES OX MR. MALDt's VERBEIA, PACE 1L
 
 1 6 WHARFDALE. 
 
 from the strife and turbulency of the busy 
 world is realized, it will surely be amongst 
 such scenery as this; a heavy volume of age- 
 tinted woods on the north, delicious and va- 
 ried intermixtures of green lawns and tufts 
 of trees in the immediate spot, with edgings 
 of thin trees terminating the whole on the 
 south; and rivers, rocks, islands and cascades 
 conspiring to decorate the scene, all in the 
 hollow of the vast concave of investing moun- 
 tains. Without a thought that would be in- 
 vidious to these venerable ruins, I must sup- 
 pose that such a seclusion is the most ele- 
 gant that could be chosen for a pleasant pri- 
 vate villa, and scarcely to be surpassed by 
 any scite in Britain. 
 
 As a character of the Wharfe, and antici- 
 pating the glorious country in which it flows 
 in Wharfdale, it will be found perhaps that 
 no other river in England can claim the de- 
 scription of the Poet with greater justice; 
 
 "A thousand rills tlieir mazy progress take: 
 "The laug'hin"- flowers that round them blow, 
 "Drink lite and fragrance as they flow. 
 "Now the rich stream of music winds along 
 "Deep, majestic, smooth, and strong 1 , 
 ''Through verdant vales, and Ceres' golden reign: 
 "Now rolling- down the steep amain, 
 *' Headlong-, impetuous, see it pour: 
 "The rocks and nodding groves, rebellow to the roar." 
 GRAY'S PROGRESS OF POESY.
 
 \YHARFDALE. IT 
 
 Two miles from Bolton is the head of 
 Whari'dale. The direction of the valley 
 here changing from South East, turns at a 
 mass of mountain named Hovvber Hill, and 
 from its former romantic exhibitions now 
 assumes a new dress of magnificence, rich- 
 ness, and beauteous splendour in its conti-. 
 nuation to the Eastward. Howber Hill is 
 the noblest object in the immediate district, 
 rising from a huge base with a monstrous 
 swell, which ceases when a slender peaked 
 ridge aspiring among.the clouds constitutes 
 the summit. From the top of Howber, which 
 is the highest land that confines Wharfdaie, 
 and is in an insular situation with respect to 
 the environning heights, there is a fine direct 
 view .through Wharfdale half its length till 
 Otley Chevin's bulky mount changes the 
 course of the.v.ale, a little to the North of 
 East. More at hand, just beyond the pro- 
 tuberance , of Howber' s base, is seen the 
 steeple of Ilkley Church pointing from un- 
 der the long, lofty, stupendous ridge of Rum- 
 bles Moor; still nearer, by the steeper side 
 of Howber Hill appears the large rambling 
 village of Addingham, screened in a spaci- 
 ous part of the valley by scattered trees ami 
 C
 
 18 "WIIARFQALE. 
 
 the brow of a little gill in which the houses 
 are more particularly situate. Then, turn- 
 ing to the N. W. the view becomes retro- 
 spective of what has just been sketched of 
 the earlier part of the Wharfe; the river it- 
 self indeed can't be perceived, but its course 
 is designated by the shade of a deeper nar- 
 row ravine in which it runs, below the usual 
 level of the opener part of the valley. The 
 mountains near the sources of the Wharfe, 
 Stake Fell, and Whernside, may be seen ; 
 -and nearer, Barden Fell, Simon Seat, and 
 Rilston Fell. North-west over Rilston Fell, 
 a little south of its highest point, we disco- 
 ver the summit of Ingleborough Hill, 30 
 miles distant, and overlooking a>country all 
 marked by large mountains; yet it is easily 
 Recognized by any acquainted with the out- 
 line of that monstrous Hill: and at a some- 
 what less distance we have half the elevation, 
 .of Pendle, showing itself over the heads 
 of the inferior mountains. In descending 
 Howber by its wide waste, there is in cue 
 place a little solitary valley excluding very 
 much both sun and storms: such native re- 
 tirements have quite a pleasant effect when 
 the wanderer enters them, having the air of 
 & new discovery that had never before been
 
 WHARFDAL& 19 
 
 Cpen to the eyes of men; they are so remoter 
 from the haunts of our fellow-creatures, and 
 so hidden from the sight of the rest of the 
 world. 
 
 Among the enclosures on the declivity oC. 
 Howber, are situate the villages of LANG- 
 BAR AND NESFIELD, which comprised 
 together, a dozen years since, 101 inhabit- 
 ants. The notice of Nesfield in Domesday 
 Survey is short; "In Nacefield, Gamelbar 
 Had three carucates" or about 3OO acres "of 
 Jand to be taxed, where there may be t\vo 
 ploughs, which land is held by service of 
 William de Perci." The village of Nesfield 
 is chiefly drawn in an horizontal line ath- 
 ivart of Howber, in a situation sheltered by 
 woods and orchards.* Wherever genius re- 
 sides, the place is tenacious of the honor; as 
 such Nesfield will ever gratefully remember" 
 its native residentiary, MR. JOHN PRIOR, 
 Watch-maki r, whose improvements in the 
 art, as well as his Son's, have attracted the 
 admiration of all' who know them. 
 
 ADDINGHAM, on the opposite, or south 
 side of the river, contained, according to the 
 census of 1801, the number of 1 157 inhab- 
 itants. The houses are mostly built on the 
 C2
 
 WHARFDALE. 
 
 ascent of a long hill; though some of the 
 dwellings and also the Church are placed 
 nearer the river. The employment of the 
 people consists generally in the manufac- 
 ture of calicoes, the twist and weft for which 
 are supplied by three water-mills erected 
 here. The Church is a neat structure; in its 
 elegant steeple there are six bells. 
 
 Domesday, a Book which was compiled 
 
 by the direction of William the Conqueror, 
 
 as a statement of the possessions of every 
 
 individual in the kingdom that their lands 
 
 might be proportionably taxed, tells us thab 
 
 the King had a tenant in Adclingham, "Ga- 
 
 f'melbar who had one carucate" (about 100 
 
 acres) "of land to be taxed, which used half 
 
 " the labour of a plough in the cultivation 
 
 *< of the arable part of it. Annual value, 5 
 
 " shillings. The King was successor to the 
 
 a Estate of Earl Edwin, the Saxon, who 
 
 " previously had LOO acres in. Odingehem" 
 
 {Addingham) " which became waste. Gil- 
 
 " bert Tison had 200 acres of land in Edi- 
 
 " ham" (Addingham) "which was also let to 
 
 " Gamelbar, who kept a plough upon it. 
 
 " Gilbert Tison also owned a wood pasture 
 
 " here, which was one mile long and half a 
 
 " one broad; of which, and of his cleared
 
 WHARFDALB7. 2t 
 
 " land the annual value was 10 shilling-; in 
 ' Edward the Confessor's time, and it was 
 u the same in King William's reign. " 
 Hence it is evident there were about 50O 
 acres in this township enclosed in fields in 
 Edward's days, which were almost immedi- 
 ately before the Conqueror's; and 200 acres 
 of this went to waste by the devastations of 
 the civil wars, which William then intro- 
 duced into the country. Hence also it ap- 
 pears the whole worth of the remaining 300 
 acres, in the Conqueror's days, was not more 
 than 15 shillings per annum. Most proba- 
 bly the next Possessors of Addingham were 
 the Vavasours of Hazlewood; this family en- 
 joying it many centuries, were the Patrons 
 of Addingham Church as lately as the year 
 1714. 
 
 From Addingham to ILK LEY, which is 
 nearly three miles, we pass an ancient farm- 
 house, adjoining on the north side of the 
 road: it retains its original name of Holling 
 Hall, having been the family seat of the 
 Maudes, from the reign of Henry the VIII, 
 at least, to the end of Charles the I's. In 
 Ilkley, as enumerated by the census of 1 8 1 1 , 
 there are 221 males, and 238 females, mak- 
 ing a total of 459 ; and these form 78 fami-
 
 22 WHARFDALE. 
 
 lies, of whom 40 are farmers. The village 
 is very compact, consisting of a main street, 
 where the houses join each other, (save on 
 en side where there is the Church and its 
 Yard,) and of two lateral ones, which pro- 
 ceed from it at right angles, one north, the 
 other south. An Antiquary easily sees an 
 air of antiquity about the houses;- and per- 
 haps others may perceive the same, many 
 of them having been built above a hundred 
 years. On the south, the common called 
 RumblesJVIoor, which occupies -the summits' 
 of the overhanging mountains, extends down 
 their sides more at Ilkley than at any other 
 place. About half way upon the steep of 
 the waste is a fine fountain of water, which 
 is excessively cold; and, according to the 
 recomendation of the faculty, has been much 
 frequented for its healing qualities in relax- 
 ed or scrofulous cases; of course, a proper e- 
 rection has been made upon the spot, (great- 
 ly improved within these few months) and 
 every accommodation provided in the village. 
 In this part of Wharfdale, the face of the 
 country by nature and culture seems- a ark- 
 d with three divisions, each characterized 
 y distinguished features. The observer 
 ftaanet but be struck with the regular gra-
 
 1VHARFDALE. J 
 
 Nations from barrenness to fertility and in- 
 creasing quantity of produce, and the pro - 
 gressive degrees from bold forms to beauti- 
 ful, which appear from the high tops of the 
 mountains to the bottom of the . alley, i irst, 
 an upland waste spreads the uhole level on 
 the heights, where the sharp point of the 
 rugged rock cleaves the clouds; where is 
 heard only the bleat of the solitary sheep, 
 picking its scanty portion of food by an anx- 
 ious and continued search among the moss, 
 and where intervening caverns, unexplored 
 by man, descend thebowels of the mountain. 
 This desolate region has not been humani- 
 zed by the reducing hand of man. JHis 
 footsteps have scarce left .a mark behind 
 them; and the well k. own rut of the carri- 
 age-roael can .hardly be eliscovered. If, per- 
 chance, a boundary stone point up among 
 the ling, the devious stranger hapless reads 
 "This is Rumbles Law;" or, this was ouce 
 "The Extent of Knaresbrough Forest.'' 
 
 Next follows a region of wood, laying on 
 the sides of the mountains. It bends like 
 an inner 4>elt half a mi e broad, in the almost 
 complete circle of the steeps, rising round 
 the curvatures of the river in this part of the 
 dale. The chain of woods is, indeed, oft en
 
 24 WHARFDALE. 
 
 broken; but only by tbe puny interuptioas 
 
 of the garden of the lonely cottage, or by 
 the intervention of the small but necessary 
 fields of a scattered hamlet; while silence, 
 disturbed only by the gushing of the rock- 
 embosomed fountain, reigns all around. 
 
 The beauties in the lower parts of the val- 
 ley complete the scene. Downs of the most 
 verdant meadows, filled with cattle; the shin- 
 ing surface of a broad river, meandering in 
 the midst; a slight selection of pleasant vil- 
 lages and beautiful seats; all these, and more 
 attractions, belong to the country about the 
 village of Ilkley. 
 
 As a Roman Station, no place seems to be 
 better ascertained than Ilkley. Its Roman 
 name, Olicana; the position where the Sta- 
 tion was constructed, and existing evidences 
 of the fact, are equally sure, and remove 
 '-every atom of doubt from the minds of the 
 ' most sceptical. Camden notices the follow- 
 ing inscription, which was dug up here in 
 his time; but which has since unfortunately 
 ^become illegible: 
 
 IM. SEVERUS 
 
 AUG. ET ANTONINUS 
 
 CJES. DESTJNATUS
 
 WHARFDALE. $$ 
 
 RESTITUERUN1. CURAN 
 
 TE. VIRIO LUPO LEG. I 
 
 C RUM. PR. PR. 
 
 By this mention of the two Emperor^, 
 Severus and Antoninus (Caracalla), we ar- 
 rive at a knowledge of the time when the 
 Station flourished in its full glory, as the in- 
 scription also informs us that the fortress 
 had then undergone a perfect repair by the 
 superintendance of Virius Lupus, Lieuten- 
 ant and Propraetor in Britain. The Empe- 
 ror Severus died at York in the year 2 1 1 , 
 and his successor Caracalla in 217, or about 
 sixteen hundred years ago. The next in- 
 scription, which on the original stone has 
 also become illegible, was taken out of the 
 River Wharfe ; whence it is conclud d that 
 Verbeia, to whom it was dedicated by a 
 Roman Officer, was the Goddess-Nymph 
 of the stream : 
 
 VERBELE 
 
 SACRUM 
 
 CLODIUS 
 
 FRONTO 
 
 D
 
 23 WHARFDAI.fr. 
 
 PRyEF. COH. 
 P. LINGON. 
 
 By which we are also informed, that the 
 first Cohort, which always consisted of 1 105 
 Foot Soldiers and 132 Horse, were main- 
 tained in this Garrison, and that they were 
 composed of Frenchmen. The last inscrip- 
 tion I have to offer was copied by Camdew 
 and Horseley, from a stone built up in the 
 south-eastern corner of Ilkley Church ; and 
 which, as was very probable,, is since dc- 
 feced. 
 
 RUM C,ES 
 
 AUC. . . . 
 
 ANTONINI 
 
 ET VERI 
 
 IGUI DILEGTI 
 
 CJECILIUS 
 PR^EF. COH. 
 
 This inscription seems to have been the 
 oldest of the three, as the Emperors Anto- 
 ninus (Philosopbus, or J^Iarcus Aurelius) 
 and Lucius Verus jojntly swayed the Ro- 
 man sceptre upwards of sixteen hundred
 
 WHARFDAL*. 27 
 
 and fifty years since. The stone was so 
 much mutilated, that we are left unacquaint- 
 ed with the intent of him who inscribed it; 
 unless, indeed, he merely meant to tell us 
 that he was Caecilius, and Praefect of the 
 Cohort, here stationed. 
 
 As to the present Remains of the Sta- 
 tion, though it has been unguarded most 
 likely these fourteen hundred years, there 
 is still a square yard of an impenetrable 
 mixture of mortar and stone, visible above 
 the green-sward, in a field behind the 
 church, and called Castle Hill ; from which 
 the foundation of the fortifications may be 
 traced, east and south, upon the crown of 
 the knoll . and, according to these and 
 other vestiges, the extent of the works is es- 
 timated at a hundred and sixty by a hun- 
 .dred yards ; which, with part of the field, 
 includes also the church and its cemetery : 
 and in this area successive discoveries arc 
 now made of Human brick, glass, and earth- 
 enware. 
 
 Of the Roman Roads leading to I Ikley, 
 four may be at present distinguished. It 
 is well known, that these Roads, conduct- 
 ing in straight lines, whenever any remains 
 D2
 
 2S WHARFDALE. 
 
 ..of them could be seen, were deternninable 
 whither they proceeded. The Stratum a 
 Deva, from Chester to Manchester and 
 thence to Ilkley, is perceptible upon Hum- 
 bles Moor; the Road from the vicinity of 
 Coin (Colunio) is traced on Addingham 
 
 . Moor, as bearing upon Ilkley ; the third 
 Road is found northward in Middelton and 
 Plueburgh House Commons ; and the fourth 
 came from Addle (Addelocum) to Ilkley, 
 near the course of which road a Lady's 
 Golden Torquis, or Roman necklace, has 
 
 . within these few years been recovered from 
 its earthy concealment.* 
 
 Ilkley Church is an ancient structure, 
 ,of which the steeple is by far the best exe- 
 cuted and most finished part. Within, on 
 
 . the northern side of the belfry, is the sculp - 
 ture of a Lady in an antique costume : she 
 
 * Dr. Whitaker, the Historian of Craven, in the 
 Deanery of which, what part of Wharf 'dale is already 
 * described, is situate, lets us know he has discovered 
 time of the Outposts of the Station ; one at Castle- 
 berg, a large rock washed by the Wharfe, and two 
 upon Counterhill, upon Rumbles Moor. The first, 
 he says, is proved to be so by the entrenchments which 
 it i' plain have been made on the more accessible parts 
 of the rock, and bv the disclosure of a key of copper, 
 two feet long, and an urn with ashes, taken up there ; 
 and as for C ounterhill, it evinces several fosses, with 
 which it was surrounded. 
 
 History of Crayen, page 205, first Edit,
 
 WHARFDAL*, 2-9 
 
 wears a high peaked bonnet, and is repre- 
 sented as holding a snake, in either hand, 
 which, twisting, raise their large heads over 
 the shoulders of the dauntless fair. Oppo- 
 site to this, on the same side of the room, is 
 another stone which is an entire specimen 
 of a Roman Altar, with the edge embossed 
 in the shape of a drinking glass. In the 
 body of the church there is a recumbent 
 statue of Sir Adam de Middelton Knt. who 
 died A. D. 1315. 
 
 The township of Ilkley includes the ham- 
 lets of Wheatley and Hanging Stone-Hou- 
 ses ; the latter of which are posted about 
 the bottom of the Hanging Stone Cow and 
 Calf, two large projecting rocks, on the 
 verge of Rumbles Moor. 
 
 Ilkley Bridge connects the townships of 
 Ilkley and Middelton, and is apparently 
 . upwards of 100 years old. It has only two 
 piers in the bed of the river ; and the three 
 arches, between which these stand, are, the 
 middle one about 60, and each side 40 feet 
 in span. 
 
 MYDDELTON LODGE. From the 
 turnpike by Ilkley, an engaging object of- 
 fers upon the bold brow ascending on the 
 other side of the river. Myddelton Lodge,
 
 SO WHARFDALfe. 
 
 the ancient mansion of the long and illus- 
 trious lineage of the Middeltons, has at a 
 distance the aspect of a castle, commanding 
 the vale beneath, and its prospect extend- 
 ing over the greater part of Wharfdale. But 
 a closer approach, disrobing it of the ima- 
 gined butteresses and battlements, shows it 
 in the more pleasing form of the hospitable 
 fabric, unfettered by towers and fortresses, 
 those insignia of the dangers of the distract- 
 ed times in which the feudal system flourish- 
 ed : probably the 0?ra in which the Lodge 
 was erected was in the decaying of those 
 .barbarous habits, three or four centuries 
 ^ince. Its present tint of mellowing years 
 is pleasing in the blooming landscape of the 
 valley ; and its accompaninunts are scarce- 
 ly less so ; deep spreading woods j and 
 Xnajestic oaks and shadowy hursts studding 
 the green glade, descending before the 
 feouse. 
 
 The airy village of Middelton stands half 
 a mile east of the Lodge, upon the same sil- 
 van elevation. 
 
 Two miles east from Middelton is 
 DENTON PARK, the Seat of Sir Hen- 
 ry C. Jbbetson Bart. Denton Park is a 
 superb example of the familiar style of
 
 WHARFDAtE. 3-1 
 
 Building, which daily exhibits to the eye j 
 the figure of the front presenting an ob- 
 long square of so many graceful orna- 
 ments as raises a lasting admiration. 
 There are two rows of windows, the upper 
 floor having nine and the lower eight and 
 the door, which with two of the windows in 
 the lower story and three in the upper are 
 included by four fine round columns, which 
 reach from their pedestals on the ground to 
 the cornice under the balustrade of the roof. 
 The beauty and noble costliness of the 
 workmanship are indeed beyond commend- 
 ation. At the distance of about a dozen 
 yards from either corner, a little behind the 
 line of the north wall of the house, are two* 
 elegant square buildings for the servants of- 
 fices. Hence the independency of the 
 chief structure is preserved from the attach- 
 ment of stacks of houses reared against its 
 back, while in a general view of Denton 
 Park, the offices are an agreeable relief for 
 the eye on contemplating the edifice ; and 
 from their extent constitute a desirable con- 
 nection with the advancing woods and 
 shades. The situation of the House is 
 charming and grand, with very extensive
 
 3'2 WHARFDALE. 
 
 woods "behind, and soft lawns sprinkled with" 
 single trees before it. 
 
 ' And in its park, in jovial June, 
 ' How sweet the merry linnet's tune, 
 
 " How blithe the blackbird's lay ! 
 'The wild buck bells* irom ferny brake, 
 ' The coot dives merry on the lake, 
 ' The saddest heart mi^ht pleasure take 
 
 "To see all nature gay." 
 
 SCOTT'S MARMION, CANTO IV. 
 
 At a greater distance are woods with a rich 
 profusion of bright fields and cottages re- 
 treating an immense way j and almost alt 
 these are placed in the vast concavity of 
 mountains whose purple summits border 
 this mighty scene, in which the Wharfe it- 
 self acts as the mountain stream, undula- 
 ting about the pastures in large murmuring 
 meanders. 
 
 It is presumed, it is pretty universally 
 understood that Denton was the seat of the 
 famous Sir Thomas Fairfax, whose Gene- 
 ralship in the disordered age of Charles I. 
 is amply recorded by the Historian. Com- 
 monly speaking, writers on the subject have 
 considered Fairfax in no other light than 
 as the associate of Cromwell, to whose dis- 
 position they have supposed the other's 
 was nearly assimilated. As a necessary 
 " * An ancient word for the cry of deer."
 
 WHARFDALE, 3& 
 
 register of the heroic achievements of a na- 
 tive of the valley, I must beg to obtrude a 
 hasty sketch of his life, in this place; in 
 which, I hope, an impartiality in marking 
 his deeds will be found to predominate. 
 
 Thomas Fairfax, Baron of Cameron, was 
 born in the year 1611. The customary re- 
 sidence of his father induces an opinion that 
 Denton was the place of his nativity; 
 though his family or its branches had other 
 Houses, at Menston and Newall, in Wharf- 
 dale, and at Nun Appleton upon the Wharfe, 
 near the river's exit into the Ouse. Study 
 look early possession of his mind ; and, as 
 we learn from the cast of his expression, he 
 very much practised reading the bible. He 
 was, by education, a presbyterian. 
 
 Fairfax had been in no office of State, 
 when he entered the service of the Parlia- 
 ment. In the year 1641, he was at Den- 
 ton, under the roof of his father, who sha- 
 ved the toils of war with him, as long as he 
 remained in the North. The king had is- 
 sued a Commission of Array, and the Par- 
 liament inlisted militia. The Commission 
 was executed with all the violence of igno- 
 rant faction ; and those whom prudence 
 E
 
 34 WHABFDALE.- 
 
 persuadecl to neutrality, while they sccret- 
 Jy applauded the depression of overweening 
 prerogative, were thus driven to resistance 
 by the injustice coupled with the King'.* 
 name. 
 
 It was intimated to the elder Fairfax, 
 that imprisonment was intended for him at 
 York. Un.able to divine the cause of such 
 intention, and con&cious of his integrity, he 
 continued ut Denton, till the importunity 
 of suffering neighbours put him at their 
 head. The Parliament heard that he had 
 risen, and .appointed him General of their 
 Forces in the North ; forces which had not 
 yet made their appearance. The Son was 
 made Commander of Horse, to the same 
 Army. 
 
 Here, it is unnecessary to give Sir Tho- 
 mas' military conduct in detail ; which as 
 to the actions of the North, where he sup- 
 ported half the command of a small troop, 
 cannot be otherwise than tediously trivial. 
 We mention Bradford, where with 300 fol- 
 lowers he checked the presumption of 800 ; 
 his masterly retreat from Tadcaster, whence 
 he conducted a considerable way in safety, 
 three brigades of horse before twenty divi- 
 sions of the foe j and Wakeneld when he,
 
 WJIARFDALE. . 35 
 
 nt the head of 1100 soldiers, drove out a 
 garrison of 3000 and took 1400 of them 
 prisoners. We call these places to mind 
 because here his lustre breaks in upon us 
 with all its radiance. As yet Cromwell 
 hud not approached him with his dissimula- 
 tion and artifice, by a veil of which his fu- 
 ture exploits are, even now, too much ob- 
 scured. 
 
 The battle of Marston Moor had com- 
 pletely destroyed the opposition of Charles* 
 forces in the North ; and the good fortune 
 of Fairfax, which when he was under the 
 command of his father was conspicuous 
 enough, moved the Parliament to, intrust 
 him with the conduct of the army in the 
 South, by which hitherto little had been 
 accomplished. Its former chief was the 
 Karl of Essex. General Fairfax has told us 
 what prevailed with him to accept this 
 dignity, in these words : " Had not so great 
 an authority" as the Parliament " (which 
 "was then nnseparated from the royal in- 
 " terest) commanded my obedience, and had 
 " I not been urged by the persuasion of 
 -" friends, I should have refused so great a 
 " charge ; But whether it was from a natu- 
 E2
 
 39 WHABFJDALE. 
 
 " ral facility in me, that betrayed my mo- 
 " desty, or the powerful hand of God, which 
 " in all things I must obey, I was induced- 
 " to receive the command." 
 
 In 1645 and 1646, the armies of the 
 King were wholly removed ; and the con- 
 sequent leisure of Cromwell hatched the 
 most ambitious designs. In 1647, his in- 
 fluence had almost created a new war; 
 and when King Charles ceased to oppose, 
 the army sought contest "with the Parlia- 
 ment. At this time, Fairfax would gladly 
 have laid down his commission ; but the 
 advice of his friends turned him from this 
 measure, by which alone the tongue of ca- 
 Jumny would have been stopped. It had 
 been the conditions of his acceptance that 
 he should act with a council of the officers ; 
 and such a council in the interest of Crom - 
 well was a total abrogation of his power. 
 This junto received the well earned appel- 
 , iation of Agitators. The person of the 
 J King was stayed among them ; and Fairfax 
 copld only express his disapprobation. 
 Colonel Pride made his celebrated Purge 
 in the Parliament; and his majesty was 
 put to the bar of a tribunal of miscreants. 
 Fairfax had been nominated a Judge j his
 
 WHARFDALE. 37 
 
 name was deemed useful, and he could not 
 withhold it. 
 
 Lady Fairfax was known as a person of 
 great merit. When ambition and enthu- 
 siastic fury were rioting in the feast of a 
 monarch's trial, it was inquired, "Is Gene- 
 " ral Fairfax here ?" and there was no re- 
 turn. The question was repeated, and si- 
 lence still ensued. But the third time it 
 was demanded, a female voice made answer, 
 " No ; he has more wit than to be here." 
 This enraged the judges, who directed the 
 guard to fire on that part of the house 
 whence the sarcasm had proceeded ; but 
 somebody seeing the danger of Lady Fair- 
 fax hindered the discharge, and her depar- 
 ture was permitted. 
 
 Soldiers from the army were given for 
 the protection of the Judg6s Can any 
 one surmise that Fairfax stationed them ? 
 His name was affixed to the declarations 
 and orders of the army, wru ther his assent 
 was obtained or not. Could he uho had 
 not power to prevent Pride in the execu- 
 tion of his Purge, which was done disobe- 
 diently to the General's principles of pres- 
 byterianism ; could he command tlie soldiers 
 back, soldiers whose hearts of fanaticism
 
 
 33 
 
 each singly longed with an untameabte 
 tliirst for the King's blood ? 
 
 Fairfax's enmity to Cromwell's adminis- 
 tration is unanimously acknowledged. H 
 had declined public offices, and was retired 
 to Nun-Appleton, when- he received the in- 
 vitation of General Monk ; and arose to 
 manifest his disposition to the royal cause. 
 Reflection had told him in his retirement, 
 that in the prosecution of the war, which 
 he always styled unhappy, his judgment 
 had deceived him ; and now he felt it his 
 duty to attempt a sort of reparation of the 
 error. 
 
 He was one of the Commissioners who 
 waited upon Charles II. in Holland ; and 
 officiated at the ceremonies of the Restora- 
 tion. He soon left the Court ; and died in 
 1671, aged 60. 
 
 Whoever imputes a cruel temper to the 
 General, on review of Fairfax's deportment 
 in that army which effected the detestable 
 murder of Charles I. possesses neither can- 
 dour nor perception. The tenour of his life 
 shows us, that he was governed by princi- 
 ple ; and that whatever he did, he was di- 
 rected to do by what he thought to be his 
 Principle is the support of virtue ; 
 
 iluty. 

 
 WHARFDALE-. 5ft 
 
 v.nJ where principle exists vice cannot flou- 
 rish. It is the want of consideration that 
 nurtures frailty ; the judgment may err and 
 a good man fall, but the descent furnishes 
 the memory with an additional proof of the 
 necessity of vigilance, and teaches the heart 
 to increase its defence against temptation. 
 Principle is the reverse of change ; and he 
 who "rests on a principle within" cannot be 
 shaken. "To this man we may, on any 
 " occasion, safely commit our cause. He 
 " is incapable of betraying his trust, or de- 
 " seating his friend,. or denying his faith." 
 
 8ir Thomas Fairfax had a daughter, / 
 named Mary ; who married Villiers, Duke 
 of Buckingham, the favorite of Charles II. 
 Denton was the property of John Thwaites 
 Esx}. when he married his daughter to Sir 
 William Fairfax. At his decease he left 
 hisestates to Sir William, who died in 1566. 
 Denton was the seat of the ancient and 
 eminent family of Fairfax, until about the 
 year 1710. The sixth Lord Fairfax was 
 bern in 1691. His father died, when he 
 was young, in consequence of which he was 
 put under the guardianship of his mother. 
 This Lady was the daughter of Lord Cul- 
 pepper. The manors of Culpepper in
 
 40 WHARFD^LC. 
 
 Scotland were then deeply mortgaged; 
 aud his mother, induced by family pride, 
 was continually soliciting her charge to 
 sell his Yorkshire possessions to redeem 
 them. At length the wearied youth reluct- 
 antly complied with her requests ; and 
 Denton was severed from the claims of the 
 Fairfaxes. It was purchased by the Great- 
 Grandfather of Sir Henry C. Ibbetson Bart, 
 its present proprietor. 
 
 The village of Denton, inclusive of its 
 very handsome Protestant Chapel, in the 
 Parish of Otley, advances to the west side 
 of the Park ; and is inhabited by about for- 
 ty families. 
 
 ASKWITH, the next village east from 
 Denton, consists of above sixty families. 
 It is mostly situate lengthwise, east and 
 west, among two or three purling, crystal 
 brooks, which 
 
 "' In summer tide so softly weep, 
 
 *' The sound but lulls the ear asleep ;" 
 
 and then they babble adown the pastures 
 to the south, reaching the river afterwards 
 in the course of three quarters of a mile. 
 The environs of Askwith are not greatly di- 
 versified with woods ; yet alniost every house
 
 WHARFITAtfi 1 . 41 
 
 and cottage in it is circled with its own 
 orchard. 
 
 In William the Conqueror r s Account of 
 the taxable land in Askwith, we are ac- 
 quainted that " Berenger de Todeni had 
 "about 10O acres, in the occupancy of 
 " Gamel ; William de Percy possessed 300 
 "acres, occupied by Ulchill, Gamel, and 
 " Bernulf, who together used two ploughs 
 *' in its cultivation ; and Gospatric had an 
 " estate of 200 acres, upon which he kept 
 "a plough and four husbandmen." At 
 present there are between 2 and 3,000 acres 
 of enclosed land in this township, the pro- 
 perty chiefly of Sir Henry C. Ibbetson, 
 Bart, and William Vavasour, Esq. which is 
 farmed by about forty tenants. 
 
 WESTON stands one mile eastward 
 from Askwith, and two N. W. from Otley. 
 It is a little pastoral village, in the skirts of 
 a wood, where the protected cottage couch- 
 es secure under the offered bough of the 
 oak, while its smoke thrills through the im- 
 pending foliages. 
 
 Weston Hall is the ancient and respecta- 
 ble seat of William Vavasour, Esq. No 
 site that could be desired would be so well 
 F
 
 42 WHARFDALB. 
 
 adapted to this antique and interesting re- 
 sidence as its present place at the foot of 
 its fine old wood, whose hoary trees have 
 stood for centuries. A large spread of 
 meadows without divisions on both banks 
 of the river, and quite Park-like with scat- 
 tered trees, seems to open to the fore- 
 ground ; prepossessing the mind with the 
 richness of the mansion ; while luxuriant 
 hanging-grounds on each hand at some dis- 
 tance appear as only preparatory, and pre- 
 senting the idea of plenty, leave us at a full 
 liberty to contemplate this incomparable 
 place. The traces which the face of the 
 edifice affords, of the ages which have elapr 
 sed since it was erected, carry our enqui- 
 ries to a distant period for the date of its 
 foundation ; and its ease and elegance of 
 construction, so very different from the stiff 
 forts and castles of the still more distant 
 Feudal times, resolve our questions concer- 
 ning its building, in conducting us to a 
 conjuncture which in all likelihood would 
 happen in the reign of Henry VIII. or 
 Queen Elizabeth. In viewing this engag- 
 ing specimen of former architecture, sweet- 
 y seated in a teeming landscape, a serene 
 pleasure steals on the soul, at the thought
 
 WHARFDALE. 43 
 
 of past happy times, which may have been 
 spent under this roof, or in those fields 
 and groves. 
 
 The Parish Church at Weston is placed 
 a few paces only from the Hall, on the 
 south side of that structure. The appear- 
 ance of the west end persuades that this 
 Church was a more spacious fabric former- 
 ly, and that other walls have joined with 
 these at present standing. In the interior, 
 Mr. Vavasour's Pew contains this intelli- 
 gent inscription, engraven on a plate fixed 
 in the wall : 
 
 In the Stone Coffin underneath are deposited 
 
 the Remains of 
 
 SIR WILLIAM STOPHAM, KNT. 
 Lord of WESTON, 
 
 Ihing A. D. 1312. 
 
 He had two children, a Son and a Daughter. 
 The former died without Issue. 
 
 The latter was married 
 
 to JOHN the younger Brother f 
 
 SIR MAUGER LE VAVASOUR, OF 
 
 HAZLEWOOD, KNT. 
 
 By whom certain Lands in Askwith were given to him, 
 And upon the death of SIR WILLIAM STOPHAM, 
 
 he inherited through his Wife 
 
 THE LORDSHIP OF WESTON, 
 
 'which has descended ever since, in the direct line 
 
 F3
 
 4* W.HARFDALE* 
 
 to the present Owner 
 
 WILLIAM VAVASOUR, ESO. 
 
 living A. D. 1812. 
 
 The Old Hall, situate at the eastern end 
 <tf the village of BURLEY, on the oppo- 
 site (south) side of the river to Weston, is 
 a small pile of rather oldfashioned build- 
 ing, commanding a sort of spacious avenue, 
 formed by a long field on one side of which 
 is a shady range of trees, on the other the 
 brisk broad current of the Wharfe, flowing 
 over its polished pebbles as transparent as 
 glass. Through this field (Burley Holm) 
 there is an exceedingly pleasant foot-path, 
 from which you have the Hall looking as com- 
 fortably as can be ; and backed with rows of 
 trees ; on the right is Mr. Vavasour's inte- 
 resting dwelling and a strong body of woods 
 behind it ; forward the windows in Green- 
 holm Mill, like long lines of dots ; and on 
 the left Burley Lodge and the elegant 
 New Hall ; while the cultured sides of the 
 mountain whose summit Rumbles Moor co- 
 vers, and at a greater distance the blue top 
 of the still higher Howber finish the pros- 
 pect. The Old Hall with the manor, which 
 for ages belonged to the Pulleyns of Bur-
 
 WHARFDALE. 4i 
 
 ley, was lately purchased by Matthew Wil- 
 son, Esq. of Otley. 
 
 Burley New Hall is a beautiful modern 
 structure, in the best style of elegance and 
 simplicity. It shews very advantageously 
 among the more ancient family seats which 
 arein its vicinity. The road from the east 
 is cheered with its agreeable aspect for a 
 good way till it enter the village ; coming 
 from Otley, this rises over a small hild ac- 
 companied by the line of Plantation, before 
 jnentioned as bordering Burley Holm at its 
 north side, with a seclusion and serious se- 
 renity, a very agreeable variation from the 
 usual glittering tenour of Wharfdalean sce- 
 nery. As this is passed, all the, three Bar- 
 ley villas, but principally the New Hall, 
 open upon the sight in a manner so brilli- 
 ant aud picturesque as almost overcomes 
 the mind with the happiness of the scene. 
 Nor are such sensations at all lessened, ou 
 looking to the bottom of the valley, to se^ 
 in the same line, the grand towering woods 
 behind the venerable seat of Mr. Vavasour. 
 Besides the eastern front, the New Hall has 
 a southern one, which extends to the 
 same space, and is a second specimen of the 
 same esteemed style of the present age,
 
 46 WHARFDAtE. 
 
 The luxuriant trees and plantations seen 
 from this front enrich the country ; but 
 these, and the brick of the gardens which 
 is injudiciously brought to the fore-ground, 
 do not evince a strict attention, perhaps, to 
 a graceful disposure of them. 
 
 The New Hall was raised by the late 
 Thomas Maude, Esq. a Gentleman of very 
 accomplished parts. He was born at Hare- 
 wood in the year 1717 ; where he spent his 
 early youth and received a liberal educati- 
 on. By reading the animated accounts of 
 travellers, and the lives of illustrious warri- 
 ors, and also by freely conversing with per- 
 sons who had eminently distinguished them- 
 selves as both ; his breast was inflamed 
 with the desire of becoming a traveller, and 
 with the thirst of military fame. To these 
 he devoted himself through the active part 
 of his life. The following just and appo- 
 site description of the means by which the 
 love of glory is inspired into young men, is 
 taken from his own Poem on Wharfdale, 
 page 5th. 
 
 M Urg 'd by the pomp of words I caught the flame, 
 *' And daily panted at Pharsalia's name. 
 
 I view'd the victor in imperial state, 
 ** .1 saw him deal a trembling globe its fate.
 
 WHARFDALE. 47 
 
 11 Warm in my breast the Grecian glories glow'd ; 
 '* Bright in my ken, the golden Tagus flow'd ; 
 " Nor less were Ischia's shores my grateful theme, 
 " The Tessin, Tyber, and smooth Arno's stream. 
 " Plac'd in the plain my airy steps aspir'd, 
 " Supremely thron'd the humbler scenes retir'd. 
 " Each realm I grasp'd, so works creative sway 
 ** When vernal vigour fearless leads the way." 
 
 After having completed the tour of Italy, 
 Spain and Germany, and having visited the 
 most northern countries of Europe, he re- 
 tired into his native County, possessed of a 
 considerable fortune. He survived many 
 years, happy in the enjoyment of a nume- 
 rous circle of friends, and extensive literary 
 acquaintance. In this retirement he wrote 
 four Poems, which are communicated to the 
 Public. His verse is smooth, flowing, po- 
 lite, and particularly gratifying. He died 
 in November, 1798, at the age of 81. 
 
 The following are the poetical effusions, 
 which Mr. Maude published seperately : 
 
 1 . Wensley Dale ; or Rural Contempla- 
 tions ; a Poem, quarto, 1771. 
 
 2. Verbeia ; or Wharfdale ; a Poem, de- 
 scriptive and didactive, quarto, 1782. (To- 
 the many valuable notes, which accompany 
 this Poem, the author of the present at- 
 tempt acknowledges himself much indebt- 
 ed. Had the objects of poetical descrip^
 
 4$ WHARFDALF. 
 
 tion Been sufficiently comprehensive to hav6 
 afforded Mr. M. an opportunity of giving 
 his remarks on every place in Wharfdale,. 
 his work would doubtless have constituted 
 a very, interesting history.) 
 
 3. Viator, a Poem ; or a Journey from 
 Condon to Scarborough, by way of York. 
 Witli notes historical and topographical, 
 quarto, 1782. 
 
 4s The Invitation ; or Urbanity j a Po- 
 em, quarto, 1791. 
 
 Burley Lodge is a neat House, with ex- 
 tended views. Thence, proceeding into 
 Burley, the habitations are genteel till we 
 come to the Aim Tree (as they call it at 
 Burley, instead of Elm, of which species it 
 is an immense sample;) whence we see 
 westward a great part of the village, very 
 rural, having a arge overgrown hedge on 
 one side, and opposite are irregular and 
 village-like houses. Under the Aim Tree, 
 formerly, the singular septennial feast of 
 the " Burley Great Pudding" used to be 
 celebrated : the last was made A. D. 1787. 
 It is said about 30 stones of flour, and an 
 equal quantity of fruit were generally con- 
 sumed in the kneading ; and though boiled 
 day and night, still it could not be cooked
 
 WHARFDALE. 4$ 
 
 enough iii the inside. In this state it was 
 distributed from a platform at the foot of 
 *he Elm, to those who would hand their 
 handkerchiefs to the carvers; the loose 
 paste daubing both the benefactors and the 
 objects of their generosity, much to the en- 
 tertainment of such spectators as did not 
 participate. 
 
 Behind the Halls, there is a Chapel of 
 ease to the Church of Otley. It is a plain 
 building, and apparently 3 or 400 years 
 old. The present incumbent is the Rev. 
 John Chapman. 
 
 Buiiey with the hamlets, Burleywood- 
 head, Stead, and Greenhohn, included in 
 the township, contains about a thousand 
 inhabitants. At Greenholm, on the south- 
 ern bank of the river, there are two large 
 Cotton Mills ; that lately erected is ex- 
 ceedingly extensive, lighted at nights with 
 gas, and its arched floors are supported by 
 iron pillars. 
 
 Stead and Burleyvvoodhead are situate up- 
 on the hills to the south, at the eastern extre- 
 mity of Rumbles Moor, which here ceases 
 to mantle the ridges of the lengthened 
 mountains. Stead was anciently a seat of 
 G
 
 50 WHARFDALE. 
 
 a part of the Family of Vavasours. To 
 employ well adapted words in the portrai- 
 ture of the m ny pastoral situations in these 
 hamlets, take a poetical image, applicable 
 to most of them : 
 
 " A snug thack house, before the door a green : 
 " Hens on the midiling 1 , ducKs in dubs are seen. 
 " On this side stands a barn, on that a byre :* 
 4 ' A peat-stack joins, an' forms a rural square. " 
 ALLAN RAMSAY'S GENTLE SHEPHERD. 
 
 MENSTON is a mile east from Burley- 
 v.oodhead, and rather Idwer in the valley, 
 which in this place opens with a hollow be- 
 tween the lofty mountains to the south. 
 The number of inhabitants in Menston is 
 217, and of families 41. Conspicuous to 
 the street of the village is the old build- 
 ing formerly belonging to the Fairfaxes. 
 Charles Fairfax Esq. who lived here near 
 200 years since, had twin sons, of the names 
 of John and Henry. These, not only when 
 infants but also when men, were so much 
 personally alike, as hardly to be distinguish- 
 ed by their nearest relations. The one was 
 made a Captain, the other a Priest. It fre- 
 quently happened that tke Soldier received 
 the compliments of the Clergy, as supposing 
 * Cow- stall .
 
 WHARFDALE. 51 
 
 him of their own order; and the Divine the 
 addresses of the Soldiers who would affirm, 
 that they had served under him many years. 
 The Divine, who was Dean of Norwich, 
 used to observe that even their mother was 
 at a loss to know them, as himself had often 
 received presents that were intended for his 
 brother. * 
 
 Going on the Burley road to OTLEY, 
 the whole vale presents, from side to side, a 
 a state of cultivation. Just on the right 
 rises the mountain Chevin, whose huge swell 
 is all wooded and pas;ured from the summit 
 to the base. From its shady foot extends 
 the Town of Otley, showing the square stee- 
 ple of its church, and its houses arranged on 
 a rather elevated plain which en Js in a bank 
 at die river. The Wharfe, as you journey, 
 rolls against the road, where its usual rapi- 
 dity is blunted awhile into a majestic body 
 of slower.- water. From the top of Chevin a 
 ridge proceeds, but gradually lessens its 
 height, towards the east; and the ledges en- 
 closing the valley no longer designate its 
 direction, as was done by the lofty barriers 
 in the west, that have hitherto prognosticat- 
 ed its progress. 
 
 ' Related in Thereby 's Ducatub L codiensis .
 
 WHARFDALE. 
 
 On entering Otley by the West-Gate 
 toll-gate we have, on the lefc hand upon 
 the river, a large Worsted Mill. Thence 
 several collections of houses at intervals for 
 three or four hundred yards, when the build- 
 ings joining more together continue the 
 street down a small descent, almost to the 
 Market-Place. Borough-Gate then com- 
 mences in the same direction, while Kirk- 
 gate diverges at right angles to the south, 
 as Clap-Gate does towards the Bridge on 
 the north. The Market-Place is situate be- 
 tween the lines of the two streets, Borough- 
 Gate and Kirk-Gate ;- a few houses, standing 
 at the corner from which they diverge, break 
 the uniformity of the otherwise square area 
 of the Market-Place ; beyond these build- 
 ings the Market-Place is open to each of 
 these streets ; and were these houses away 
 it would be very spacious ; including the 
 breadth of the two streets which would then 
 be quite open to it, its dimensions would be 
 nearly sixty yards every way. 
 
 Continuing our nomenclature of each part 
 of Otley ; from the south end of Kirk-Gate, 
 at the Church, Bond-Gate leads eastward, 
 parallel to Borough-Gate. About the mid- 
 dle.pf Bond-Gate, Sugar Street begins and
 
 WBAUFDALP. SS 
 
 goes northward to the top of Nelson- Street, 
 which converges hither from the east, as 
 Rattan-Row does from Kirk-Gate on the 
 west. Walker-Gate commences where 
 Nelson-Street finishes, at the Methodist 
 Chapels, and proceeds in the same line as 
 Nelson-Street to its end in Cross-Green, 
 where Borough-Gate also finishes. Cross- 
 Green leads to the eastern turnpike bar. 
 Crow- Lane lays in the eastern part of Otley, 
 connecting Cross-Green and Bond-Gate for 
 foot passengers. Gay- Lane begins at the 
 eastern end of Bond-Gate, going southward 
 to the Chevin bar. On the left hand with- 
 out this bar, is Cambridge. Borough's- 
 Lane leads westward by the Church. Back- 
 Lane and Clap-Gate are both behind Bo- 
 rough-Gate. Measuring the length of the 
 town by West-Gate, which is 800 yards 
 long, and by Borough-Gate, 300 yards long, 
 and Cross-Green, 400 yards, we have 1500 
 yards, or nearly a mile, for the length of Ot- 
 ley ; the breadth of the town, which may be 
 calculated by Gay-Lane, 230 yards, Kirk- 
 Gate 215 yards long, and the ranges of 
 houses in a northern direction to the Bridge, 
 1 30 yards, or about 600 yards for the breadtk 
 of the town.
 
 54 WHARJDALE, 
 
 The Population of Otley, by the census 
 of 1811, amounts to 2 6 02 persons, of whom 
 1229 are males and 1373 females ; these 
 form 575 families, 104 of whom are farmers, 
 391 are traders, and the remaining 80 in 
 neither of these classes. From this number 
 of persons and the inhabitants of the neigh- 
 touring villages in the Parish, there were, as 
 registered at the Church during the year 
 1812, One hundred and fifteen Baptisms, 
 Marriages Sixty-one, and Burials Sixty- 
 seven. 
 
 Otley is an ancient incorporate Borough, 
 held of the Archbishop of York in soccage, 
 at the annual rent of five-pence for each of 
 its 137 burgages, which are at present in the 
 possession of 73 Burgesses. The Borough 
 includes nearly all of the Market-Place, 
 Borough-Gate, Cross-Green, Kirk-Gate, 
 Walker-Gate, and a side of the streets, lead- 
 ing to the Bridge, at the back of Borough- 
 Gate, with the exception only of a few te- 
 nures, of the Court of Bardsey. The Arch- 
 bishop is Lord of the united Liberties of Ca- 
 wood, Wistow, and Otley, wherein his Grace 
 appoints his Magistrates, whose power of pu- 
 nishing felons capitally was formerly practis- 
 ed in Otley. The Quarter- Sessions regur 
 larly summoned at this town and the occa
 
 WHARFDALE. SS 
 
 siohal Meetings of the Justices are now ade- 
 quate to the conviction of most of the offen- 
 ders ; and cases of deep felony are common- 
 ly r- ferred to the Assizes of the County. 
 
 Otley Market is known to have been 
 uniformly attended and maintained almost 
 fcine hundred years. No market, perhaps, 
 in a town no larger than this can be put in 
 competition with it for quantity and variety 
 of business acted in it. Early in the morn- 
 ing of Friday, the market opens with the 
 sale of cattle, particularly sheep and calves 
 brought from the farms at hand and at a dis- 
 tance; numbers of butchers in Otley and / 
 from the populous town of Leeds finding a 
 plentiful supply. Nothing need exceed the 
 abundance and goodness of the meat upon 
 the stalls of this town ; and in every other 
 thing, whether we consider the stationed 
 shops of the place or the adventitious far- 
 mer-vendors of the day, Epicureans them- 
 selves have reasons for the highest satisfac- 
 tion ; and to this corresponding articles of 
 dress or ornament may of course be added 
 here. As to the most important matter which 
 avails itself of the convenience of this mar- 
 ket, the vast loads of corn, some conveyed 
 directly hither from the market at Knares-
 
 *G WHARFDALE. 
 
 brough, and the rest from the intermediate 
 and more remote country ; it is chiefly pur- 
 chased hy corn-dealers from the greatly in- 
 habited districts of the manufactures to the 
 south-west, Bradford, Halifax, &c. 
 
 In noticing the most considerable edifices 
 in Otley, the Manor House is very worthy 
 of attention. This small genteel villa is si- 
 tuate in the north part of the town. It pos- 
 sesses a complete character of its own, as 
 rather retreating from the noise of the place, 
 yet wholly visible to the inhabitants of it, 
 through a vista of aspens, elms and poplars, 
 which open a view for the whole length of 
 Kirk-Gate, one of the finest and most lively 
 streets in Otley, conferring altogether the 
 utmost comeliness on this part of the town, 
 The excellent effect of such a splendid ter- 
 mination could scarcely have been conceiv- 
 ed before it was performed. 
 
 Otley Church, upon the plane of its large 
 Yard which is raised several feet above the 
 level of the adjacent streets, overlooks Bond - 
 Gate and Kirk-Gate from its position with- 
 out the point of the angle where these meet. 
 At first sight, the spaciousness of the place 
 impresses sentiments of respect to it ; its 
 greatest dimensions are 156 feet long, and
 
 WHARFDALE. $7 
 
 77 wide. The style of the structure is best 
 preserved in its Gothic windows, with spiral 
 arches and numerous divisions. The steeple^ 
 at the west end, is carried up plain ; it has 
 eight most tuneable bells, and a set of chimes 
 to them. 
 
 The opinion formed on viewing the out- 
 side of the Church will fall far short of the 
 favor which it will receive on an examinati- 
 on of the inside ; which is furnished by one 
 of the most successful unions or configurati- 
 ons of the Gothic and Grecian tastes. Over 
 the body of the Church the roof is support- 
 ed by two equi-distant colonnades ascending 
 between the north and south aisles to the ribs 
 of the arches, which spring to a Gothic point 
 under the cornice of the ceiling. All the in- 
 side of the building is overlaid with capital 
 plaster, where the walls are free; and the flat 
 inner roof is done with stucco, from the tra- 
 cery on which a brass chandelier depends 
 by a fine chain of the same metah Upon 
 th wainscot of the screen which separates 
 the chancel from the part appropriated to 
 the audience is a noble tablature of Moses 
 and Aaron, and the Lord's Prayer, Ten 
 Commandments and the Creed, printed cm 
 H
 
 8 WHAKTDALS. 
 
 the picture. The Organ is placed before 
 the painting, not that it conceals any part 
 of the principal figures, and upon a Gallery 
 where two or three pews have been also 
 placed on each side of it. This is in the 
 eastern part, and in the western end .of the 
 Church is the larger Gallery, which is ca- 
 pable of containing a great congregation. 
 
 A very great degree of the attraction of 
 Otley Church arises from the many orna- 
 mented monuments that adorn it. Curiosi- 
 ty is doubly excited towards the old tomb of 
 Lord and Lady Fairfax in a corner of the 
 southern wing of the Church ; for these 
 were the Grandfather and Grandmother of 
 the celebrated Sir Thomas Fairfax, and here 
 his progenitors are commemorated by the 
 masterly sculptured statues of the Lord and 
 Lady, laid on the lid of the tomb. Lord 
 Fairfax is carved as a cuirassier, barehead, 
 and resting on his helmet as a pillow, with 
 a lion at his feet, all emblematical of the 
 wars in which the inscription informs us he 
 was engaged ; which and the epitaph of La- 
 dy Fairfax are in ihe following Latin words : 
 
 Memoriae Sacrum 
 
 Kon. Tho. Dni Fairfax Elehoe pientissimse uxoris 
 qui postq. varia belli apud suoe fil. Rob, Aske Ar. ex
 
 WHARFDALE. 
 
 Baronib. Clifford et Latf- 
 mer oriundse duodenu. li- 
 beror. matrisque, post vix- 
 isset pietatis exemplar an - 
 nos LVII. ad cognatiores 
 superos humanis exempta 
 XXIII die Aug. MDCXX 
 hie placide occubuit. 
 
 Gattos, Germanos, Bata- 
 vosq. et apud suos i aul. 
 regia ac rep. munia subiis- 
 set ex hac aerumnarum 
 m'Jiti* octogenariua hal- 
 cyoniis Angliu; temporib. 
 adaequat. missione obtinu- 
 it in celeste prcesidiu. I 
 Maii MDCXL. 
 
 Translation of the above. 
 
 Sacred to the Memory 
 
 of the Honorable Thomas of Ellen, liis most affeeti-- 
 Lord Fairfax, who, after 
 fie had discharged the va- 
 rious duties of war, among 
 the French, the Germans, 
 and the Dutch, obtained 
 his dismission from this 
 warfare of troubles ; and 
 after having attained the 
 age of 80 years during the 
 halcyon days of England,, 
 he obtained coelestial safe- 
 
 ty', the first of May, 1640. 
 
 onate wife, the daughter 
 of Robert Aske Esq. de- 
 scended from the Barons 
 of Clifford and Latimer, 
 and mother of twelve chil- 
 dren. After she had li\ ed, 
 an example of piety, for 57 
 years, she placidly expi- 
 red, being taken from her 
 human to her heavenly re- 
 lations, the 23rd. day of 
 August 1620. 
 
 On the opposite side of the Church, in 
 the wall of the north wing, there is an en- 
 graven plate of the pedigrees of the Lind- 
 Jeys and the Palmes' of Lindlcy, tracing 
 them as far back as two generations before 
 A. D. 1297. Towards the bottom of the 
 plate, is the figure of Francis Palmes the 

 
 60 WARFDALE. 
 
 last of the family, and below him 
 Latin Verses, dated 1593: 
 
 Plurima LINDLOROM templo conduntur in isto, 
 Ultima PALMSORUM corpora bina jacent. 
 Gloria certa viri non est, sunt omnia vana 
 Nee faciunt clarum stemmnta clara virum. 
 Hoc Virtutis opus : Justus ceu PALMA virebit 
 Nam dotes animi nulla sepulchra tegunt. 
 
 Translation of the above. 
 Within this Church are many LLNDLEYS laid : 
 Here exequies o'er the last PALMES were said. 
 Vain and uncertain was their fame ; for when 
 Has ancestry alone ennobled men ? 
 Yet Virtue blooms like PALM-TREES branching wide, 
 And giited souls no sepulchre can hide. 
 
 Upon the wall above the stairs to Mr. 
 Fawkes's Pew in the Organ Gallery, we 
 have a marble monument thus inscribed : 
 
 Underneath 
 
 lies the Body of 
 
 Francis Fawkes of Farnley Esq. 
 
 Wise, good, and just ; 
 Steady to his principle both in 
 
 Church and State, 
 
 Faithful and loyal to his King, 
 
 Zealous for thetrue interest of his Country J 
 
 A most tender and affectionate husband, 
 
 The bret father, the kindest master j
 
 WHAKFDALE, 1 
 
 Charitable to the poor, a friend to the fatherless nd wi 
 
 In 1713 he was elected Member of Parliament [dow$ 
 
 For the Borough of Knaresborough in this County, 
 
 (which Borough his Ancestors had before represented) 
 
 And, independent, discharged that important trust 
 
 With Fidelity, Courage, Constancy. 
 
 After the death of Queen Ann r 
 He h'v'd a retired life at his paternal seat, 
 Lov'd and respected by all wholmew him, 
 More deserv ing of honours than studious to acquire them . 
 He died on the 1 1th day of November, 1747, r 
 In the 74th year of his age ; prais'd, wept, honour 'J , 
 
 And resteth here - 1 
 In hopes of ajoyfal resurrection to a crown 
 of immortal glory in the kingdom of Christ. 
 In the same grave * 
 
 lies interred the body of Margaret his wife, One of the 
 
 Daughters and Coheiresses of John Ayscough Esq. 
 
 The only Son f Sir W illiam Ayscough ofOsgodby Knt. 
 
 By whom he had issue eleven children, 
 
 Four only of whom lived to survive him, 
 
 Thomas, Ayscongh, Francis, and John. 
 
 She was adorned with every virtue that could render 
 
 Her Sex amiable in this life and happy in the next. 
 
 Sacrum* optimi Patris 
 Memoriae hoc Marmor posuit 
 
 Ayscough Fawkes 
 
 Filius ejus natu secundas 
 
 A. D. 1764. 
 
 The Chancel of the Church glistens with 
 a series of polished marbles, the handsom- 
 
 * TRANSLATION. Sacred to the Memory of the Best 
 f Fathers, Ayscough Fawkes, his second Son. placed 
 tbis Marble, A. D. 1754.
 
 62 WHARFDALE. 
 
 est and most stately of which, on Francis 
 Fawkes Esq. with his bust in bass-relief a- 
 Vove, has this inscription below : 
 
 Ah! rablliter ossa quiescant. * 
 
 Near this place lie interr'd the Remains of 
 
 Francis Fawkes, of Farnley Hall in this Parish, Esq. 
 
 Who departed this life on the 17th of July, 1766, 
 
 in the 79th year of his age. 
 
 He married Christiana, only Daughter and Heiress of 
 
 William Wilkinson of Newall Hall, Esq. ; and 
 
 Dying 1 without surv iving issue 
 
 left the bulk of 
 
 his fortune to 
 
 Walter Hawksworth of Hawksworth, Esq:. 
 
 who 
 
 with gratitude and affection < 
 
 dedicates this monument to 
 
 His memory. 
 
 The Epitaph on the late Mr. Fawkes is 
 at the southern corner of the east window * 
 
 Sacred to the Memory 
 
 Of Walter Fawkes Esq. 
 
 Who was bora at HawkswOtth 
 
 A.-D. 174ft 
 Died Oct. 17th. 
 
 1792. 
 
 He married Amelia, eldest daughter 
 Of James Farrer Esq. 
 
 *Ah \ softly may his bones repose*
 
 Of Barnbro Grange and Ewood 
 
 In tliis County, 
 
 By whom he left issue, 
 
 If alter, his eldest Son who married 
 
 Maria, second Daughter 
 
 Of John Grimston Esq. 
 
 Of Neswick in this County ; 
 
 Amelia, his eldest Daughter 
 
 Married to Godfrey Wentworth Wentworth Es<fc 
 
 Of Woolley Park in this County ; 
 Frances Elizabeth, his second Daughter 
 Married to Charles John Brandling Esq. 
 
 of Gosforth House 
 in the County of Northumberland ; 
 
 And 
 Francis, Ayscough, and Richard, 
 
 His youngest Sons. 
 
 In compliance with the request 
 
 f the late Francis Fawkes Esq. 
 
 He removed 
 From his own Family Seat 
 
 At Hawksworth 
 
 To Farnley Hall, A. D. 1786 ; 
 
 Which Mansion he rebuilt 
 
 and 
 
 when 
 It pleased divine providence 
 
 To withdraw him 
 From the Bosom of a Family 
 
 By which 
 
 He was justly and sincerely Beloved, 
 And from a Neighbourhood 
 
 In which 
 
 He had passed his life 
 Respected and Esteemeft.
 
 4 WHARFBALE. 
 
 To transcribe great numbers of Epitaphs 
 is unnecessary. The three subsequent 
 ones, selette t in the Church Yard, seem 
 ratlur interesting. To the south of the 
 Clurch is th's, the oldest legible inscripti- 
 on in the Yard : 
 
 Here resteth the Body of Elizabeth Battye, wife of 
 James Battye of Poolle, who departed this life the 3rd 
 dayofAprilll660. 
 
 Ilodie mihi, cms tibi.* 
 
 Ill explanation of the next inscription, it 
 may be observed, previously, that Mr. Rit- 
 chie was long in the service of the Royal 
 Navy, sailing over the southern ocean ; and 
 when he left it his object was to secure a 
 pleasant retirement, and this he found in 
 Wharfdale. In the S. Eastern part of the 
 Burying Ground : 
 
 Here rest the Remains of John Ritchie, Surgeon, 
 who migrated in full hope of a better life from this ter- 
 raqueous scene of fluctuating trouble, the 18th day of 
 April, 1780, aged 77 years. 
 
 From torrid climes by nautic art convey'd, 
 
 I sought the refuge of a peaceful shade. 
 
 Oft in the tumult of the broken wave, 
 
 I votive call'd, when Heaven vouchsaf 'd to save. 
 
 * As Iiarn to day, so you may be tomorrow.
 
 WHARFDALE. ^5 
 
 "Here all is calm, ye idly vain! deduce 
 The pointed Moral, to Salvation's use. 
 Tir'd of this mortal Toil, Debate, and Strife, 
 I rise, atoning to triumphant life. 
 
 The last of the proposed Epitaplis is near 
 *he steeple : 
 
 Here lie the Remains of Mary Beck, Daughter of 
 Benjamin and Mary Beck of this Town, Grocer and 
 Draper ; "who departed this life the 29th day of April, 
 1801, in the 23rd Year of her age. 
 
 Ah ! was she toot too young to find 
 
 The Grave, bedew'd Xvith many a tear; 
 
 Too much belov'd to be resjgn'd, 
 
 Too bright to disappear. 
 
 Though worms upon her beauties feed, 
 Soon shall she rise in heav'nly bloom ; 
 And bright immortal joys succeed 
 The darkness of the tomb. 
 
 Such Charitable Donations to the Poor of 
 Otley as are always bestowed at the Church, 
 it may not be improper here to express. 
 The sum of betwixt fifty and sixty pounds 
 is annually conferred at Christmas chiefly 
 upon those labouring classes who are ena- 
 bled to subsist without assistance from the 
 parish rates, solely by the exertion of much 
 I
 
 66 WHARFDALE. 
 
 industry. The Widow's Dole of twenty 
 shillings is yearly given to twenty widows, 
 the first sunday after the seventh of April. 
 Lastly, bread is granted out at the Church 
 every sabbath. 
 
 The annexed is a list of all the Vicars of 
 Otley whose names are recorded in the ar- 
 chives of York Minster. 
 
 When Years they 
 
 inducted. Kames. officiated. 
 
 1267. Galfridus Bridlingten - - - - 1 
 
 1268. William de Liverton 51 
 
 1319. John dfe Bfamlington - - ^ - 30 
 
 1349. Robert Bonfoit ---42 
 
 1391. John Rowcliffe -------.. 
 
 .... Richard de Ottety - --*--.. 
 
 1432. Robert 17 
 
 1449. Jac : Carus 3 
 
 1452. Richard Rudd - . . 
 
 William Skelton 
 
 1478. William Taylor 24- 
 
 1502. fedvvard Mahew - - - 2 
 
 1504. Richard Walker 8 
 
 1512. Lawrence Puke --20 
 
 1532. William Stanley - - 4 
 
 1536. John Barker 58 
 
 1594. William Hardisty ------ 2 
 
 1596. Robert Thompson ------ 10
 
 WHARFDALE. 7 
 
 When Years they 
 
 Names. officiated: 
 
 1606. William Harrison - - ---- 66 
 
 1662. Lancelot Dennison ----- H 
 
 1673. William Harrison ...... 19 
 
 1692. Lawrence Bentham ----- 9 
 
 1701. Thomas Dade --- ---- 7 
 
 1708. Henry Humphry --- - - - 36; 
 
 1744. Thomas Dawson --- - - - 3 
 
 17i6. Joshua Crowther ------ 5 
 
 1751. Christopher Alcoclt ..... 1O 
 
 1761. Hairy Wilson ----- --21 
 
 1782. George Hatfield ...... 4- 
 
 1786. James Bailey - Present Minister. 
 
 Above the usual services at .Churches, Ot.- 
 ley Cliurch has 10 Lecture Sermons, (pro- 
 bably founded by the JfairiajLus,) preached 
 annually after Lent. 
 
 The Methodist Chapel at Otley, built in 
 1771, has seats for 500 hearers. Present 
 Preachers, John Phillips, and William iiud- 
 clitfe. In ^tliis Chapel^ tlxe Sunday School 
 disseminatei the l)lessings of education i<> 
 poor children, of whom the number now- 
 teaching is abou.i 200. 
 
 The New Methodist Chapel was construct- 
 ed in he same stree (Xelson Street) and 
 opened for divine worship iu J801 by pet-
 
 68 WHARFDALE. 
 
 sons of Mr. Kilham's persuasion. It is -a 
 small building, and ratheF neatly finished 
 in the inside. Present Itinerant Preachers, 
 John Harrison and W illiaai Blackwell. 
 
 The Quaker's Meeting H< use. stands m 
 Cross Green^ It was converted about 45 
 years ago to its present use, from a former 
 dwelling-house. 
 
 The Assembly Room, in Bond-Gate, wa& 
 raised originally for the purposes of a Court, 
 and Sessions House. The Magistrates af- 
 terwards from some inconvenience removed 
 their sittings to the Grammar School ; and 
 the Assembly Room has since served as a 
 Theatre, or been adapted to the entertain - 
 Hients of dancing. 
 
 The Free School situate in Clap-Gate, 
 has two projecting wings in front ; and was 
 built 200 years since, as appears by the date 
 of the Grant of the Founder, Thomas Cave, 
 1611 ; and was named Prince Henry's 
 School, in compliment to the then Prince 
 of Wales, who conferred the honors of a 
 Corporate Body on the Trustees of the in- 
 stitution. The Motto on the Seal peculiar 
 to these Governors is " Deum Pave, Tomo 
 Cave " ; Fear God and mind thy Book ; the 
 latter part of the Latin being a pun on the
 
 WHARFDALK. 6$ 
 
 donors name. Over the entrance are the 
 words " F 'unded by Gift." In the Gram- 
 mar School, the Court ami ssions >f his 
 Grace the Archbishop of York, Lord of this 
 Liberty, are now h 1 i. 
 
 The Bridge tray rsos th-- rver at the dis- 
 tance of a hundred and eii^'-y y irds from 
 the houses in Chip-Gate. It is a sightly 
 structure of sov 'i nrc - ( s ovr the bed of 
 the river, here 240 feet broad ; it has two 
 other arches upon the banks for th escape 
 of flood-water. The aera of the building of 
 the bridge may V>e carried as far back as the 
 year 1673 ; when, as we are told in a rela- 
 tion, copied below from the Register Book 
 at the Church, several bridges were de- 
 stroyed by a deluge of die Wharfe : "Me- 
 "morandum Sept. 1 1th 1G73. This Summer 
 **is remarkable for the abundant and conti- 
 "nual rain therein. On the Eleventh of 
 " this month, there was a wonderful inunda- 
 " tion of waters in the northern part s. This 
 "river of Wharfe was never known to be so 
 "big, within the me;nory of man, by a full 
 "yard in height; running up. in a direct 
 "line to Hall- Hill- Well. It overturned 
 Kettlewell Bridge, Burnsey Bridge, Bar- 
 "den Bridge, Bolton Bridge, Ilkley Bridge^
 
 7P WHARFBALE. 
 
 "and Otley Bridge ; and the greatest part 
 "of the Watejr Mills. It also clearly swept 
 "away Pool Lo Fulling Mills, and carried 
 tl them down whole, like to 3 ship. It left 
 ** neither corn nor cattle on the coast there- 
 of." 
 
 From the situation of Hall-Hjll-Well, 
 abovernentioned, on the ascent to the houses 
 jn the town, this must have be^ n a most ama- 
 zing flood indeed : no bcKiy now ? any more 
 than then, ever recollecting one of the ma- 
 ny large rapid rises of the river to have swel- 
 led within a perpendicular yard of the height 
 attained to in 1673. As to the floating of 
 Pool Mills, tiiese at that time were built of 
 
 In addressing ourselves to the consideration 
 of the succession of ages from the period of 
 Antiquity in which the town originated, the 
 lapse of eighteen hundred years, since the 
 first authentic accounts of this country, has 
 placed ourknowedgeof such distant times in 
 a very feeble light : even the names of many 
 <>f the towns and citadels which the Romans 
 built in Britain, during their dominion over 
 it, are now unknown, and of the names which 
 we do know, the greater number cannot at 
 this day be clearly referred to the proper pla-
 
 WHARFDALE. 7l 
 
 ces. In this state of the subject, curiosity con - 
 cerning occurrences of so old a date must of- 
 ten rest contented with conjectures in the 
 room of requisite certainties ; in such wise is 
 the supposition received that Otley was the 
 town called Camjrodonum by the forementi- 
 oned Romans ; a town which afterwards be- 
 came the regal seat of the Saxon Kings, and 
 had one of the first churches in the kingdom 
 constructed in it, by Archbishop Paulinus 
 A. D. 627 ; which was a few years iftefr 
 burnt with the town by the superstitious Pa- 
 gans, who also slew the Christian King of 
 his country, Edwin, A. D. 633.* The rea- 
 sons for supposing Otley to have been for- 
 merly of such consequence are the samfe 
 circumstances that induced Antiquarians to 
 conclude that Tadcaster was the ancient 
 Calcaria ; first, because Antonine acquaints 
 us in his second Journey that Calcaria is 
 fiine miles from York, oh the Roman Road 
 fo Chester, and that Campodonum is twenty 
 miles from Calcaria towards the same Place, 
 which is true both of Tadcaster and Otley, 
 
 *Vide Bsedoj Historiam Ecclesiasticam, Lib. II. Cap. 
 XIV.
 
 72 TVHARFDALE. 
 
 and seconrlly, because many Coins belong- 
 ing the Old Roman People have been dis- 
 covered at Tadcaster,* which has been e- 
 qually the case at Otley ; fiity years since, 
 numbers were found about the site or the 
 Manor House.f If further support in fa- 
 vor of Otley be wanting, we have it, perhaps, 
 in its being a Royal Manor in Saxon times, 
 and retained by King Alfred, although he 
 had distributed almost all the rest of Eng- 
 land in distinct estates to meritorious pos- 
 sessors. 
 
 Positive -and particular intelligence of 
 this place we also hav in the year 937, 
 when King Athelstan regarded Otley as of 
 sufficient importance, in conjunction with 
 Cavvood and Wistow, to be a kingly gilt to 
 reward the dutiful and valuable assistance 
 of the Primate of England, Archbishop 
 Wulstan, who defended the City of York 
 against a siege of invading Danes and Scots, 
 that soon after in a battle with the King- 
 were totally overthrown. Hereupon Athel- 
 stan, to recompencethe honest succours of 
 
 * See Antonine's Itinerary, and Camden's Britannia, 
 u the Brigantes. 
 
 f They were deposited with Mr. Snell. Among thcnj 
 was a capital impression of the imperial Eagle.
 
 WHAHTBALl:. 
 
 the Archbishop and to evince his gratitude 
 to Heaven for giving him the victory, grant- 
 ed a Charter of the Liherty of Cawood, 
 Wistow, and Otley to the See of York, 
 which was confirmed better than a hundred 
 years after by Edward the Confessor.* 
 
 Twenty years later than St. Edward, or 
 the Confessor, the General Survey of Eng- 
 land by William I. describes the state of 
 Otley, in terms which, for the sake of ease 
 to the reader must be paraphrased. " A. D. 
 * e 1086, Thomas, Archbishop of York, pos- 
 " sessed the Manor of Otley, which com- 
 " prehended the manors of Stubham, Mid- 
 delton, Denton, Clifton, Bicherton, " ( a 
 name at present unknown here ) <c Farnley, 
 " Timble, Weston, Pool, Guiseley, Hawks- 
 " worth, Esholt, Baildon, Menston, Burley,. 
 " and Ilkley, stretching over a space of 
 " nine miles square, almost, all overgrown 
 " with coppice-wood. The whole number 
 " of productive acres was 6075 ; of which 
 "2560 acres were ploughed, 3511 were 
 " wood-pasture, and 4 acres meadow. Of 
 " these the annual value some years before 
 
 * Both Charters arc preserved in the Archiepiscopai 
 Palace. 
 
 K
 
 74- WHARFDALE. 
 
 "was 10 pounds, but was deteriorated to 
 " 3 pounds. The chief manor, the liberty 
 " or township of Otley, contained about 
 " 1300 acres of ploughing land, cultivated 
 "by 37 persons, his Grace the Archbishop 
 " having about 200 acres in his own man- 
 "agement; and 6 husbandmen with 10 
 " farmers holding 500 acres ; also 5 free- 
 " holders with 4 labourers and 9 farmers 
 " under them possessing nearly 500 acres ; 
 " and the Vicar of Otley possessing 100 a- 
 " cres and a husbandman, there being a 
 " Church at Otley in the year 1086."* 
 
 From the .Church, in the following Cen- 
 tury, Hoger, Archbishop, and original buil- 
 der of York Minster, alienated One Mediety 
 or a part of the benefice of Otley Church, 
 in the year 1171, and gave the income to 
 the Clergy of the Cathedral he had been 
 building.f 
 
 We now come to the history of the Bo- 
 rough of Otley, which owed its origin un- 
 doubtedly to the fostering care of the Arch- 
 bishops, who resided at their Palace in this 
 town ; and with a laudable zeal for the ini- 
 
 *Dom-Boc, Terra Archiepi. Eborac. 
 t See Burton, Gent, Drake, &c.
 
 WHARFDALd. 75 
 
 provemcntof the place, extended its build- 
 ings and encouraged its commerce. The 
 species of trade peculiarly attended to was 
 the woollen manufacture (now so long lost 
 here), as is evident from the legal right 
 which clothiers anciently had of fixing 
 cloth-tenters before premises in Cross- 
 Green. The woollen manufacture was 
 paid great attention formerly, the famous 
 socitey of Merchant Adventurers, instituted 
 in 1296, associating fur the purpose of pro- 
 moting its interests. From the number of 
 inhabited burgages, 137, in Otley, we may 
 infer that its population at this time was 
 near a thousand persons. All the Boroughs 
 of England were first summoned to send 
 Members to Parliament in 1265, reign of 
 Henry III. They afterwards sent none un- 
 til the year 1295, Edward I. when it is un- 
 derstood this Borough and about 120 other 
 cities and boroughs were severally required 
 to depute two of their townsmen to repre- 
 sent them in the state. Mr. Hume, in his 
 History of England, observes that " the 
 " Sheriff, when he found no person of abi- 
 "lities or wealth sufficient for the office, 
 "often used the freedom of omitting parti- 
 * cular boroirghs in his returns ; and as be
 
 76 WHA-RFBA2X. 
 
 " received the thanks of the people for this 
 " indulgence, he gave no displeasure to the 
 " court, who levied on, all the boroughs, 
 " without distinction, the tax agreed to by 
 " the majority of deputies." Mr. Hume 
 had previously remarked that "their charges 
 " were respectively borne by the borough 
 " which sent them, " and " that no intelli- 
 " gence could be more disagreeable to any 
 " borough, than to find they must elect, or 
 " to any individual than that he was elected 
 "to a trust from which no profit or honour 
 " could possibly be derived."* The She- 
 riffs, however, were deprived of the po\ver 
 of omitting boroughs at pleasure in the 
 reign of Richard II. and as the expence of 
 supporting two members of the house of 
 commons during the sessions of parliament 
 in those times is said to have been about a 
 mark, or 13 shillings and 4 pence, daily ; 
 that is equal to at least 1 pounds of present 
 money, the charge of maintaining mem- 
 bers became very heavy to many boroughs, 
 which in consequence, and Otley amongst 
 them, petitioned Government about the 
 reign of Henry VI. to be relieved from the 
 
 Home's Edward I. section 9th.
 
 WHARFDALE. 77 
 
 duty of sending their delegates, a request 
 which was complied with. 
 
 Between the years 1406 and 1423, Henry 
 Bowet, Archbishop, lived much in his Palace 
 at Otley, and added Kitchens to the struc- 
 ture ; an argument, remarks his biogra- 
 pher, of the abundance of beef and ale his 
 Reverence made away with in the mansion.* 
 
 That the Palace was built in the castle- 
 like form of those days, and had its uses as 
 a castle, appears from the purposes to which 
 it was applied. From its situation on Hall- 
 Hill, immediately south-west of the bridge, 
 it completely commanded the passage of 
 the river, and offered an e;tectual preserva- 
 tive from the incursions of the Scots, those 
 rapacious invaders of the North of England ^ 
 that they advanced into the district on the 
 north side of the Wharfe is plain from the 
 inhabitants of it speaking in the Scottish 
 dialect. The castle also served to maintain 
 the Archiepiscopal Jurisdiction in the ma- 
 nor, a customary clause in the Archbishop's 
 Leases of the land where the castle stood 
 having this reservation : " save and except 
 u and always reserved to the said Archbishop- 
 
 * Drake's Eboracum, pages 440 nd 441.
 
 Tfc WHARFDALE. 
 
 "and: his Successors a Castle for the Con-f 
 "finement of Debtors and Felons, and sL 
 " Court Room for the Keeping of Records 
 therein." When the Castle was no longef 
 wecessary for the protection of the town, and 
 when criminals were commonly sent to- 
 York, the building was suffered to decay. 
 This was previous to the Civil Wars from- 
 1640 to 1649, as it did not then afford as- 
 sistance to either party. The Remains of 
 it were removed upon raising the present 
 Manor House upon the sarnie site, about 30 
 years ago. 
 
 The Court and Sessions of this Liberty 
 were afterwards held in an Inn, that was 
 anciently in the Market-Place. Since then 
 they have been held in the Assembly Room, 
 and in the Free School where they are 
 transacted at present. 
 
 In 1779 the waste land in the township, 
 n Chevin, was enclosed, and in conse- 
 quence, the former accounts of travellers, 
 of the ponderous crags of Chevin, are be- 
 come inapplicable, tall- plantations covering 
 some of the rocks and most of the rest ha- 
 ving been split for buildings. This enclo- 
 sure also removed the ruins of the Archbi- 
 shop's stables, which were very distant from
 
 WHAttPDALE. f$ 
 
 tis Palace, in a part of Chevin called Dib~ 
 bindale. Chevin is now a fine cultivated 
 mountain, affording capital views of the 
 valley. Ascending about half-way up, for 
 instance, in the direction towards where the 
 Beacon was, Wharf dale opens with the ut- 
 most splendour. There you have the town, 
 some of its streets extending from the chief 
 collection like arms, east and west and 
 south ; the verdant valley sweeping for 
 miles in one line, and three or four miles 
 broad, bedecked with numbers of Gentle- 
 men's Seats and their Ehsian environs ; 
 and the river bending long azure reaches, 
 so wide as to equalise their harmonious ef- 
 fect to a chain of delicious lakes. To the 
 east the vale shoots out of sight in an im- 
 mense expanse of glorious agricultures ; ia 
 the west it causes a noble aperture among 
 the purple-crested mountains, winding tiji 
 it vanishes behind vast musses of accumu- 
 lating precipices. 
 
 Coming down Chevia by the Leeds 
 turnpike, after passing the borders of two 
 woods near the summit of the hill, the eye at 
 once attains the most noble prospect of the 
 Western half of the above described view. 
 Getting lower the town gradually attracts
 
 9 WfiARFDALE. 
 
 attention, its houses and streets extending 
 themselves in the landscape, while the na- 
 tive scenery of Wharfdale blooms around 
 in its most beautiful manner. The Plate 
 prefixed in this work is a representation of 
 this scene. An author's ideas are occupied 
 by the images of his subject, which he en- 
 deavors to transcribe to his readers ; if he 
 can raise their minds to admiration, he cau- 
 ses the desire to become acquainted with 
 every iota of the admired object, to know 
 every relative proportion ; but to give these, 
 painting alone can be adequate, the aid of 
 the pencil being ever an additional desider- 
 atum in landscape delineation. 
 
 Mr. Clifton's* Seat at NEWHALL- 
 wiTH-CLIFTON, is a fine feature in the 
 scenery of the vicinity of Otley. It is most 
 tastefully pbced upon the margin of a sil- 
 van terrace, with a slender graceful descent 
 towards the waters of the Wharfe. Speak- 
 ing of the mansion stself, it is ornate, and 
 significant of a situation where fortune en- 
 joys the delights which the country's bound- 
 less advantages produce. As seen from 
 
 * Barrister at Law, one of his Majestys Justices of the 
 Peace, and Lieutenant Colonel Commandaut of the 
 JVharfdale Volunteer Infantry.
 
 WIIAIIFDALE. - ! 
 
 the bridg.e it is felicitous ; the direction of 
 the bridge inclines upon the house, and pre- 
 sumes to point rather purposely to. it. The 
 verdure of the enamelled field before the 
 door is conterminous with the garde>ns, 
 which also border upon the crescent of trees 
 and arbors, at the back of the pleasure 
 grounds. 
 
 A turreted fabric in the village was once 
 the residence of Edward Fairfax Esq. the- 
 renowned translator of Tasso, the Italia 
 Poo:. Mr. Fairfax was bom at Denton, 
 where he passed many of his juvenile years. 
 His father, Sir Thomas, died in the year 
 1599 ; and Edward being a younger son- 
 chose his employment HI the study of liter- 
 ature. He ranks high among the English 
 Poetts; elegance shone conspicuous in his 
 compositions, and his Translation of Tasso 
 is a standard- of sweetness, judgment and 
 grace. Besides this performance, he wrote 
 several fugitive pieces, some of which have 
 been collected and published, but a great 
 part of them remain in manuscript. His 
 \\ay of living was worthy of the poet and of 
 Uie gentleman ; he devoted part of his time* 
 to the seclusion of the woods and TOTCS;.
 
 8 WHARFHALE. 
 
 to society he owed the enjoyment of his ex- 
 alted conversation, which he did not with- 
 hold, bewail Hall and his house of Stocks 
 iu Leeds, were long remembered as the a- 
 bodes of politeness^ learning, and the soci- 
 al virtues. He died in the year 1635. 
 
 FAUN LEY HALL is seated a little be- 
 fore the centre of a stately swell of lawns 
 and woods, which are bordered with the ri- 
 vers Wharfe ond Washburn on either hand ; 
 on a swell which is indeed a sort of step in 
 the descent of the high-lands which separata 
 the two rivers previous to the union of their 
 waters. The tall screen of trees behind 
 the house aspires so as to conceal the sight 
 of the objects beyond it ( save the distant 
 and rugged tops of Fox Crag and Hunter- 
 stones ), and conducts the view towards the 
 engaging display of improved nature in the 
 expanse in front. Such an agreeable, stu- 
 died diversity and variety of grounds, spot- 
 ted and tissued with woods, here present 
 themselves, that the eyes wander over the 
 .shady groves and plantations with continu- 
 ed curiosity. The green plat which sup- 
 ports the trees,, intermixing its lively tints 
 among the deep but glittering hues of the 
 foliages, shews itself here and there, shaped
 
 WHARFDAI/E. S3 
 
 into every sort of figure and extension. 
 The grand end and tendency of these judi- 
 cious decorations is a most pleasing mansi- 
 on, placed in a paradise of gardens ; pre- 
 senting some of the perfect performances 
 of the builder's art, as in its facade is found 
 a freedom and easy proportion of the parts 
 iind a just accomodaiion of the ornaments, 
 while the inhalations fcom the parterre of 
 grass and flowers, 
 
 Where " rosemary and bays their odours join 
 "And with the fragrant myrtle's scent combine, 
 'Where tamarisks with thick-leav'd box are found 
 "And cytissus and garden pines abound ;" 
 
 the roses and tulips that mingle their inim- 
 itable colours among the shrubs and loftier 
 trees, and the flowery walks and fringed 
 carriage ways among the thickets ; these 
 contribute to render this as enchanting a 
 situation as can possibly be imagined. 
 
 LEATHLEY, the township of which 
 lays eastward of that of Faraley, strays a- 
 inong savannas and intervening bowers, on 
 the bank of the little river Washburn which, 
 issuing in the north, joins Wharfe at this 
 village. Leathley Hall sometime belonged 
 to the Maudes, who acquired it by a marri- 
 ,age in 1 767, and sold it after to the late Mr. 
 Fawkes ; at present the edifice is partly
 
 84 WHARFDAL'E. 
 
 dissolved in ruins. Of Leathley Church, 
 the Rev. Furnival Bovven has been Rector 
 now 42 Years. Number of Families, be- 
 tween 50 and 60. 
 
 From Otley to POOL, three miles on the 
 southern bank of the river, the ascent on 
 the left of the Wharfe shows the sylvan 
 pleasure-grounds of Farnley, and beyond 
 where these finish the steeple and some 
 cottages and houses in the village of Leath- 
 iey, with the hills winding around them. 
 The Wharfe and the Washburn meeting a 
 little below, the united flood comes to the 
 road, spreading out a long large sheet of 
 deep gliding water. Pool is a little tho- 
 roughfare place, under the ridge which runs 
 on to the highest point of Otley Chevin 
 they call this ridge Pool Bank. The houses 
 are set about the angles of two roads, one 
 through Wharfdale, the other across it over 
 Pool Bridge to H arrogate. 
 
 Perhaps the bt st place for obtaining a 
 glorious prospect of Wharfdale, compre- 
 hending almost every object in it, distinct- 
 ly from end to end, is Pool Bank. Oppo- 
 site to you, on the other side of Wharfdale 
 ends the vale of Washburn, in which appear 
 the clustered cottages of the fertile arbore-
 
 WI1ARFDAUE. 85 
 
 ous village of Leathley, and beyond it 
 Washburn-dale winding sequestered to the 
 left, under the rocks of the impending 
 mountains. In the immediate valley the 
 Wharfe is sweeping with wide silvery reach- 
 es through a lengthened carpet of luxuri- 
 ant pastures, bordered to a great breadth 
 with a vivid intermixture of waving c irn- 
 fields and grass-lands, thinly sprinkled too 
 with towering woods. Near you, you have 
 Pool and its bridge, and then Farnley Hall 
 on a beauteous swell of lawns and woods. 
 To the left is seen the town of Otley vari- 
 egating the view ; over it the mountains in 
 the west, from 6 to 16 miles distant, whose 
 magnitude seems to set them within 3 or 4 
 miles ; their sloping steeps some pushing 
 before the other ; the depth of the valley 
 darkening in woods at their foot, and heap- 
 ed mountains, peaks, and protuberances, 
 still increasing as they seclude the prospect. 
 From Pool to ARTHINGTON the sight 
 is gratified with the gay figure of Leathley 
 Hall, half a mile to the left in the midst of 
 verdant pastures. But more remote than 
 this, and over beyond Leathley village is 
 the most interesting object, the blue tinted 
 vista of the precipitous vale of rapid Wash-
 
 6 WHARFDALE. 
 
 burn ; on a clear day the distant mountains, 
 indistinctly seen through it, and the tufted 
 trees on the hills at the nether end. In go- 
 ing forward to Arthington, the Wharfe is 
 seen in several silvery sheets. More than 
 a mile before you eastward, a round hill ri- 
 ses in the midst of Wharfdale, making a mi- 
 nor valley on each side ; whence the future 
 progress of the river can no longer be fore- 
 seen. While the fancy will be busy in the 
 design of distinguishing the more elegant 
 vale, as the right Wharfdale, the rather 
 opener of the two begins to display so ma- 
 ny emerald fields and gilded villages, as 
 soon chases every doubt from the delighted 
 mind. At Arthington, where a few cotta- 
 ges stand by the road side, is Arthingtou 
 Hall, upon a steep bank of the river, very 
 near the village, to screen it from which 
 there is a number of tall trees before its 
 front; which barking dogs of critics (but 
 never give them the smallest credit ) would 
 probably say, induced the idea of so many 
 grenadiers under arms for the defence of the 
 edifice. Between the stems of these trees, 
 the house itself is seen, a pleasant modem 
 building of superlative symmetry and gen- 
 tility.
 
 WHARFDALE. 87 
 
 Further on, between the turnpike and the 
 river, a me incut o of the spot where the 
 Nunnery once stood is still preserved by 
 the original ivied walls built about the brink 
 of the well, whence the nuns obtained their 
 water, half a dozen centuries since. The 
 nunnery was founded by Peter de Arthing- 
 ton about the year 1 150 ; and was suppres- 
 sed in 153.6, when ten religious sisters who 
 liad lived here were removed from the mo- 
 nastery. 
 
 The fine plain of the Wharfe, dappled 
 with trees and hedges, is bordered by the 
 bides of the hills, stationed at- a long inter- 
 val from the river, with fields of waving, 
 green and gold ; the villages of Weeton and 
 Keswick glistening in the distance, and 
 Kirkby with its church, over beyond them,, 
 depicted upon the vertex of the hill. Then, 
 lest the landscape should languish in luxu- 
 rious softness, just over against you, the 
 highest summit of the hill beyond the 
 Wharfe, is crowned with Almscliff, a black 
 group of rocks, which show, many miles a- 
 long the vale, like aiv enormous- fortress 
 smoked all over with the sooty breath of time. 
 Ascending the high knoll at Weardley fc 
 there is another view of the same part of the
 
 8-8 WHAIMFDALE. 
 
 vale, when the fences seem disposed gene- 
 rally in the direction of east and west, re- 
 ceding in an exquisite perspective. Ariv- 
 in j at a little dingle, is seen on the opposite 
 brow, which bears a collection of towering 
 woods, a small open area, where is a build- 
 ing, the Menagerie of HA RE WOOD- 
 HOUSE, quite coloured with ivy, wood- 
 bines and jessamines. Next, a copious 
 brook descending down the dell ; and then 
 a number of neat edifices, the Farm Yard,. 
 Brewery, &c, of Harewood House ; com- 
 pact together and partly upon the side of 
 the hill. Forward, through the tall shafts 
 of the trees, the white spray of a broken ca- 
 taract is perceived, dashing down the bank 
 from the lake above. On gaining the shore 
 of that fine winding lake, an aspiring silvan 
 scenery shades the edges of the fluid ex- 
 panse beneath ; while the remote upper 
 part of the water exhibits an orient coast of 
 glades and pastures. Indeed there is no- 
 thing so interesting in the rich Seat of the 
 Earl of Harewood as its landscape garden, 
 as Nature herself seems to have afforded 
 the plan of improvement, demanding only 
 ker hills and dales, her woods and lakes to be 
 ekaracterized and displayed to advantage ;.
 
 WHARFDALE. 9 
 
 so "has his hand the intermingling charms 
 "Of hill and valley, lawn, and winding dell, 
 "In rich exuberance spread ; " so "has his hanJ 
 "JIung these wild banks with silvan majesty." 
 GISBORNE'S WALKS IN A FOHEST. 
 
 On the south side of a promontory, half 
 wooded, which the mere winds round, are 
 the Green and Hot-Houses ; the walls with 
 fruit trees : and shrubs and flowers before 
 them. Surmounted on the lawny acclivity 
 that rises on the north margin of the mere, 
 is the Residence itself; it has two floors, 
 one of 14 the other of 15 windows stretch- 
 ing its whole length ; and is varied with 
 four columns in the middle part, which be- 
 gin to ascend with the second story and con- 
 tinue to the top of a third that raises the bo- 
 dy of the building above the level of the 
 wings. Downhill from this front we de- 
 scend to the sky-reflecting lake that enters 
 a wood to the left, where it soon contracts 
 itself to the breadth of the current which 
 supplies it. Here the sighings of water- 
 falls are wafted through the trees ; two se- 
 parate chains of basins and attendant cas- 
 cades pacing a larger and a smaller valley. 
 Between their courses a bulky mount heaves 
 itself above the ambient hills, and possesses 
 M
 
 90 WHARFDALE. 
 
 a vivified prospect ; for here is the gay shin- 
 ing villa seated on a summit with circling 
 trees, the spacious lake issuing out of, and 
 losing itself again in depth of arboreous 
 shades ; the bright gardens ; the verdant 
 lawns and distant buildings continued to a 
 most unlimited extent ; the back ground 
 consisting o f the hills of Wharfdale, Alms- 
 clifie, Fox Crag, &c. ; the only defect of 
 this situation is its being severed by a puny 
 ridge of country from the splendours of 
 Wharfdale, neither adding the least lustre 
 to them, nor receiving in return any part of 
 the grandeur in the valley of the Wharf e. 
 
 The north front of Harewood House, from 
 the increased height of the ground is one 
 floor lower than the south side ; the greater 
 number of pillars, which is six, rising from 
 their pedestals on a base from the ground 
 give it a superior appearance of unity, mag- 
 nificence and rich design. The verdant 
 space before the House is terminated with 
 w r ood ; and the carriage road from it passes 
 away to the eastward by clusters and single 
 trees to its exit in Harewood under the arch 
 of the handsome sumptuous lodge. 
 
 The Town of Harewood is disposed on 
 the .same eminence of situation as Hare-
 
 WHARFDALE. 9 1 
 
 wood House ; and bears grateful tokens of 
 the regard which the same noble owner 
 pays to the decency and elegance of its 
 habitations. It has but two streets ; the 
 first termed Bond- Gate, points north and 
 south ; the second proceeds from the for- 
 mer in an eastern d irection, and has flower 
 gardens on each side along the ranges of 
 the houses, The Market is on Monday, 
 Population, 771 persons. 
 
 M. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
 Printed by W. Walker, Otley.
 
 A 000018215 4