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TRAVELS 
 
 COSMO THE THIRD, 
 
 8^c. S^c. (^r. 
 
 " On y voit avec plaisir deux granda volumes qui sont le Journal des Voyages faits par Come III. 
 e& 1669, accompagn£ de beaux desseins, avec des explications de M. le Comte Magalotti. Je ne connois 
 aucnn exemple (si ce n'est celui du Czar Pierre le Grand) d'un Prince qui ait voyagf avec tant de cu- 
 riosity, de gout, et d'utilitd." Voyage en Italie, par Lalande, Tom. ti. p. 386. 
 
C. WOODFAU,, PRINTW, ANGEL-COURT, SKINNER-STREET, LONDON. 
 
^€ O S]lMO_l]II„ 
 
 J'fipfis/wd thr J Mnwrrhm ofL^ndifn-. Mi}y 2fi ?fl2i 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 OP 
 
 COSMO THE THIRD, 
 
 GRAND DUKE OF TUSCANY, 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 ENGLAND, 
 
 DURING THE REIGN OF KING CHARLES THE SECOND (1669)- 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THB 
 
 Italian ^anu^crtpt in t^f Itaurentian IBLitvavn at ^lovtnce. 
 
 TO WHICH IS PREFIXED, 
 
 A MEMOIR OF HIS LIFE. 
 
 ILLUSTRATED WITH A PORTRAIT OF HIS HIGHNESS, 
 
 AND THIRTY-KINE VIEWS OP 
 THE JMETROPOLIS, CITIES, TOWNS, AND NOBLEMEN'S AND GENTLEMEN'S SEATS, 
 
 AS DELINEATED AT THAT PERIOD Bt ARTISTS IN THE 8CITE OF COSMO. 
 
 LONDON : 
 PRINTED FOR J. MAWMAN, LUDGATE STREET. 
 
 1821. 
 
\Qf^ STACK 
 
LIFE OF COSMO III. 
 
 »;i 
 
 The travels of Cosmo III., Grand Duke of Tuscany, 
 which he undertook when Hereditary Prince of that State, 
 are contained in a manuscript which fills two immense 
 folio volumes, and is preserved in the Laurentian Library 
 at Florence. That part of these travels which relates 
 to our own country, has excited considerable interest 
 among the numerous English travellers who have visited 
 Florence since the peace, and it is for the more general 
 gratification of this curiosity of his countrymen, that the 
 writer submits the present work to the public. The trans- 
 lation has been faithfully made from the original Italian, 
 by a distinguished pen. 
 
 But in this history of his travels, Cosmo himself must 
 be considered as the traveller only. Under his direction, 
 the narrator of them was the celebrated Count Lorenzo 
 
 b 
 
 55 
 
 C 6 7/^3 
 
2^ 
 
 Magalotti, afterwards Secretary to the Academy del Ci- 
 mento, and one of the most learned and eminent charac^ 
 tei^'of the court of Ferdinand II. The friendship and 
 correspondence which this elegant scholar enjoyed with. 
 Lord Somers, Sir Isaac Newton, (by whom he was de- 
 nominated the Magazine of good taste, "II Magazino del 
 buon gusto,') and indeed with almost every distinguished 
 literary personage of Europe in that day, elevates the cha- 
 racter of the narrative, and adds considerably to its in- 
 terest. 
 
 The inclinations as well as the interests of Ferdinand 
 induced him to pursue the principles of government es- 
 tablished by his father, and to check as much as possi- 
 ble, the humiliating usurpations of the court of Rome. 
 This influence, since the death of Cosmo II., and during 
 the minority of Ferdinand, under his grandmother the 
 Grand Duchess Cristina, of Lorrain, and his mother 
 Maria Magdalina, of Austria, two weak and bigoted wo- 
 men, had increased so considerably as to embarrass the 
 ordinary course of government, and afflict his subjects 
 with a tyranny the more odious, as it was imposed by a 
 power to which they owed no allegiance, and felt neither 
 love nor respect. The liberal mind of Ferdinand ex- 
 cited him to curb this unnatural influence, by enlighten- 
 
ingthe public mind and introducing the study of "Natural 
 Philosophy." 
 
 I^J The philosophy of the Jesuits, jf scholastic disputations 
 can worthily be entitled to that name, then solely occu- 
 pied the attention of the learned ; and, as the Peripatetic 
 principles on which it was founded, tend to enthral the 
 mind, and render it a more easy prey to superstition, so 
 any effort which could be made to break this chain was 
 well adapted to promote the excellent views of Ferdinand, 
 and to restrain within due limits, this preposterous usur- 
 pation. 
 
 In promotion of this great object, was established " Thft 
 Academy del Cimento," which, though unproductive in 
 itself of any great original discoveries, and doomed to a 
 short-lived existence, yet deserves to be celebrated as the 
 parental source and primary model of every subsequent 
 institution of the same nature, and was the chief means 
 by which useful science became again the object of the 
 attention, and exercised the talents of the learned in 
 Europe. Thus the shadows of unprofitable speculation 
 were happily relinquished for the more important reali- 
 ties of experimental truth. 
 
 It excited some astonishment, and perhaps, more cu- 
 riosity, in the public mind, to observe, at this period,. the 
 
 b 2 
 
 fj 
 
departure of the hereditary prince from the society of a 
 young and beautiful wife, to whom he had been very re* 
 cently united, for the purpose of undertaking a long and 
 laborious journey. This extraordinary occurrence arose 
 from a total want of assimilation of manners and sen- 
 timents in the princely paiji^^^^PTo escape the scenes of do- 
 mestic discord, Gosmo relinquished the happy clime and 
 polisjb^4 society of Florenq^^ apd thence arose the circum- 
 stances which produced the following work. It is there;4 
 fore imagined, that a brief account of the private life of 
 Cos^O^ ,^Ul.^Jit.5 jpa^^ natur-al connexion with the, 
 
 subject of the work, but Will create an addition to its in- 
 terest, by illustrating the character of that prince, and ex- 
 hi|)iti[Ag theeKilp^jeifects , vvhicJi|i|Yproduced on the future 
 fortunes of his family. 
 
 Cosmo III. was born on the 14th of August, 1642,' 
 He was the son of Ferdinand II. and of Vittoria dellcj 
 Rovere, Duchess of Urbino, the only child of Federigo 
 delle Rovere* and Montefeltro, only son to the last duke 
 
 * Vittoria was only nineteen months old at the death of her father, Fede- 
 rigo. He was a weak and vicious prince, and died by the rupture of a blood-^ 
 vessel, in the night of the 28th of June, 1623. He had abandoned himself 
 to the most depraved and extravagant passions. His principal favourite was 
 a comedian, whose name was Argentina j and his chief amusement con- ' 
 sisted in dramatic representations with her and her companions. On the 
 
 ^ r1 
 
of that State, arid of Claudia de Medici, daughter' of 
 Ferdinand I. The union of Ferdinand with Vittoria was 
 not productive of happiness ; his mind affable, generous 
 and liberal, was ill adapted to that of the grand duchess, 
 whose education within the recesses of a cloister had ren- 
 dered her proud, suspicious, weak and bigoted. Their dis- 
 cordant feelings soon disturbed their happiness, and pro- 
 duced a separation, which continued for eighteen years ; 
 but this separation was not suffered to outrage the public 
 
 evening of his death he had exhibited himself upon the stage, before a very 
 numerous audience in the character of " an ass," and letting fall a burthen 
 of pots, he received the most gratifying applause for the natural manner in 
 which he had performed his part. His widow and her child were invited to 
 Florence, and Francisco Maria VI., and last duke of that State, had consent- 
 ed to this measure in the hope of saving his country fi-om the usurpation of 
 the Pope, after his death. He was a most learned and virtuous prince, but 
 the latter end of his life, though spent in solitude and the cultivation of learn- 
 ing, was rendered miserable by the base attempts of Urban VHI. to induce 
 the unfortunate prince to sign an acknowledgment of the supremacy of the 
 Papal throne, by which his dominions might, at his death, be made over to 
 that power. The weakness and folly of Cosmo gave a validity to this instru- 
 ment, and he lost an undoubted claim to the Duchy D'Urbino, by not 
 having sufficient resolution to enforce his right against the Papal usurpation. 
 The princess was educated by the grand duchess Cristina, with too much 
 attachment to the ceremonies of the Catholic faith ; and the marriage be- 
 tween Ferdinand and Vittoria was solemnized privately in the Pitti palace, 
 on the 1st of August, 16S4. 
 
 I 
 
opinion, and all external appearances of respect were care^' 
 fully preserved towards each other. 
 
 From a kind consideratioii 6f the tenderness of the 
 grand duchess towards her child, or perhaps from a 
 generous wish to alleviate the solitude which this separa- 
 tion occasioned, the education of their then only son was 
 unfortunately intrusted to her care. The princess, sur* 
 rounded by priests, whose interest led them to keep alive 
 the dissensions between herself and Ferdinand, permitted* 
 his youthful mind to contract a disgust to the pursuits of 
 elegant literature, and to consider the attainments of true 
 philosophy as inconsistent with his religion. Thus, at a 
 period when the intellect is most easily encouraged to en- 
 gage in the jitii'S'mtis of useful knowledge, and to attfffii^ 
 those elegant accomplishments which adorn the princej 
 and would have rendered Cosmo particularly dear to his 
 father, his mind was devoted to solitude, or e^eri6iSed'6ti1y 
 on the barren themes of scholastic divinity. The people 
 of Florence, with secret dissatisfaction and gloomy fore- 
 bodings, beheld the young prince assuming a cold and 
 haughty manner, unnatural to his age, which the priests 
 had taught him to mistake for majesty, but which tended 
 only to repel from his society, all those whose more en- 
 lightened sentiments might have encouraged his mind 
 
 4 
 
to overcome the effects of this pentrcious educa* 
 tion. 
 
 Until the year 1655, Volunnio Bandinelli had been his 
 tutor, a man of much learning, but better calculated to 
 instruct a theological disputant than a great prince ; nor 
 could all the future efforts qf^" Carlo Dati," and of other 
 learned and liberal professors whom Ferdinand placed over 
 his :son, eradicate from his mind the impressions which 
 it had received from Bandinelli and the priests. When 
 Cosmo was invited by his uncles, to take a part in the 
 sti^di^, Qft:Jt}je " Academy, 4^1 Cimento," he felt no inter- 
 est iti the experiments, nor did he blush to own to his 
 confidential friends, that he considered his attendance in 
 that society, as a waste of his time. His mind thus early 
 alienated from all occupations of genius, inimical to 
 poetry and music, and averse to the natural vivacity and 
 gaiety of youth, found no pleasure but in the conversation 
 of priests and the ceremonies of the Catholic religion ; and 
 his father, too late discoverins: that error which intrusted 
 his education to the maternal care of the grand duchess, 
 sought to rectify its defects by an appropriate mar<*^ 
 riage. 
 
 Many princesses were offered to his choice, and, 
 amongst others, one of those, belonging to the exiled fa- 
 
 •rli 
 
8 
 
 mily of the Stuarts ; but the apprehension of giving of- 
 fence to Cromwell, whom foreign potentates then feared 
 and respected, induced Ferdinand to reject this proposal. 
 Gaston, Duke of Orleans, had then three daughters, the 
 offspring of his second marriage with Margaret of Lorrain. 
 The eldest of these princesses, who was in her fourteenth 
 year, appeared to Ferdinand to offer the most eligible al- 
 
 lim^^ ^^MP !SP»^B^i^F^' ^^^^ ^^^ family connexions as 
 from her persona! attractions ; but Gaston had hoped, 
 and in that hope the French nation had participated, 
 that this lady would have been placed by Louis XIV. 
 upon the throne of France. The duke had destined his 
 second daughter. Mademoiselle Alen9on, for the crown of 
 Tuscany ; had educated her in the Italian manner, and 
 inspired her with an affection and regard for that 
 country. 
 
 Margaret Louisa, the elder princess, was endued with 
 rare beauty and extraordinary vivacity, and while her 
 hopes were directed to the French throne, she had been 
 educated with an aversion to Spanish haughtiness and 
 Italian gravity. Her mind was amply supplied by the 
 Duke of Orleans with every qualification which might 
 suit the taste or be capable of making an impression on 
 the heart of his royal nephew. The exercises of riding 
 
and hunting, and an allowed Freedom of conversation", 
 had increased her natural levity, and her knowledge of 
 several lalrt^^^fe and W^^n^l literature, enabled her 
 to excel in society; and, while her sisters were compelled 
 tO'submit to greater restraint, her talents expanded in the 
 liberty of indulgence, and shie ]5ecaihe the admiration of 
 a brilliant court. 
 
 But when Louis had depriVed' her of all hope of the* 
 French crown, by his marriage with the Infanta of SpainV 
 she was induced, or rather compelled, by the authority 5f 
 the king, to accept the Tuscan allfanidefan-S having left 
 in his hands a protest against it, she externally consent- 
 ed with a good grace, and her espousals were solemnized 
 by pi'My; at the Louvre, on the 18th of April, 1661.^ 
 i^ The magnitude of the political views which the com- 
 mencement of the reign of Louis XIV. developed to the 
 world, and the protection which this greatness promised 
 to the lesser sovereigns connected with his family, mad^ 
 this alliance to be considered at Florence as the most 
 propitious event which could have occurred to the country. 
 The rejoicings upon the marriage, are enumerated among 
 those gorgeous festivals with which the Medici family 
 have ever been accustomed to celebrate such ceremonies. 
 The presents sent to the princess were of the most taste- 
 
 c 
 
10 
 
 ful and costly description, and the splendid gallies in 
 which Margaret Louisa was wafted to the shores of Tus- 
 cany, might have vied with the celebrated barge which 
 bore Cleopatra ; (that in which the Syren Queen of Egypt 
 met and subdued the infatuated Antony.) Her reception 
 at Leghorn, was rather that of a queen than a princess ; 
 and ever}^ town through which she passed, presented her, 
 in its turn, with a different and magnificent entertain- 
 ment. 
 
 It was observed, however, that all this pomp excited no 
 pleasure in the mind of the princess, and appeared to 
 yield her no gratification. From an inconsiderate desire 
 to afford her every indulgence, the grand duke had been 
 induced to permit her to bring in her train about thirty 
 French attendants ; and to the influence and misrepre- 
 sentation of these people, was at first attributed her un- 
 disguised aversion to the country which greeted her with 
 such a princely welcome, and the alienation of her affec- 
 tions from her youthful spouse. 
 
 It has ever been the fate of the Medici family to owe 
 most of its misfortunes to their ill-assorted marriages; and 
 the circumstances which preceded this union were of such 
 a nature, that the evils produced by it might have been 
 prognosticated. The princess, educated with too exalted 
 
11 
 
 hopes, had seen them frustrated, and, before her depar- 
 ture from France, had disposed of her heart. She had 
 conceived a violent passion for Prince Charles of Lorrain, 
 the fifth duke of that house, the future defender of 
 Vienna, and the terror of the Turk ; but Charles, not 
 being possessed of a sufficient revenue to enable him to 
 aspire to her hand, depended on some future opportunity 
 to gratify a love which eventually produced such fatal 
 consequences. Forced by the influence of the king to 
 accept the hand of Cosmo, she nourished in her heart all 
 the rancour, aversion and disgust, which such compulsory 
 connections are apt to produce in the female breast, and 
 more particularly when a prior object has occupied the 
 affections. 
 
 Scarcely arrived in Tuscany, the princess openly ex- 
 pressed an unconquerable dislike to the country, a con- 
 tempt for the people, and an abhorrence of every Italian 
 custom. All the rejoicings displayed upon her marriage, 
 all the splendid festivals which attended it, appeared only 
 to nourish that discontent which her French attendants 
 studiously endeavoured to augment. Nor was the cha- 
 racter of her young spouse calculated to sooth her disap- 
 pointed feelings, or make her forget her unfortunate passion. 
 Proud and cold himself, Cosmo expected those attentions 
 
 c 3 
 
12 
 
 which he failed to show, and thus laid the foundation of 
 his own unhappiness by aggravating a feeling which he 
 jnight have soothed, although, in reality, he had conceived 
 a very violent attachment to her. 
 
 The incautious attachment of the princess to her 
 French attendants soon began to endanger the happiness 
 of the family into which she had entered. With uncon- 
 troulable avidity she endeavoured to bestow on them 
 every post, and every advantageous situation which she 
 could obtain. Even on the second night of her mar- 
 riage'', she at once endeavoured by endearments and 
 threats, to induce the prince to make her a free donation 
 of all the crown jewels, then the richest in the world ; and, 
 not succeeding, she purloined a considerable portion of 
 them, which she disposed of to her French people, and 
 aided them to escape with the booty. The fugitives, how- 
 ever, were overtaken, and the jewels recovered, and strict 
 measures were rendered necessary to watch over her con- 
 duct, as well as that of these mercenary destroyers of the 
 happiness of a family, into which a thoughtless indul- 
 gence had permitted them to enter. 
 
 In the February which followed the nuptials of Cosmo, 
 arrived at Florence the Prince Charles of Lorrain. His 
 " The princess arrived in Florence in June, 1661. 
 
X3 
 
 attachment to the princess was still a secret, but upon 
 his departure, her violence became excessive, and the 
 grand duke, who employed every means to gain her con- 
 fidence and to soften her temper, received no other return 
 for his kindness than contemptuous sneers, insulting re- 
 marks upon his country, and provoking replies. A cor- 
 respondence carried on with her mother, the Duchess of 
 Orleans, an ambitious and mischievous woman, was found 
 to have a malignant effect on the mind of her daughter ; 
 and to remedy this, recourse was had to Louis XIV., who 
 sent an ambassador*" to endeavour to bring about a recon- 
 ciliation, but he failed in producing any effect upon the 
 obduracy of the princess. She attempted to convert the 
 embassy to her own purposes, and claimed from the king 
 an asylum in France, declaring " that she preferred a ca- 
 bin in that country to a palace in Tuscany." 
 
 During the continuance of these disputes, she was de- 
 livered t)f a son, on the 9th of August, 1663, and warm 
 hopes were entertained that such an event would have 
 produced that reconciliation which neither the king nor 
 his ambassador could effect. But these hopes were vain ; 
 her ill-humour still continued, and, with the consent of 
 Louis, more severe measures were adopted, and all her 
 
 * The Count of St. Mesme. 
 
14 
 
 French attendants were dismissed, thouoh not without 
 ostensible marks of regard. In order to escape the vio- 
 lence which this measure was expected to produce in the 
 princess, Cosmo undertook his first travels through Upper 
 Italy. 
 
 The prince avoided, but did not prevent, by his ab- 
 sence, the expected storm. The enraged princess filled the 
 court with the most indecent clamour. Ferdinand being 
 no longer able to conceal from public observation these 
 domestic feuds, and hoping to subdue her obstinacy by 
 measures of still farther rigour, now exiled her from the 
 court, and confined her most strictly to the Villa of 
 Poggio a Cajano, trusting that seclusion and solitude 
 might overcome this violence, and induce her, at least, to 
 adopt a conduct more consistent with her own dignity and 
 more respectful towards himself. At first she appeared 
 unsubdued, and disdainful of this severity, but finding in 
 her own mind no resources which could sustain her re- 
 solution, and becoming impatient of confinement, she 
 undertook an hasty and unexpected journey to Florence, 
 and, throwing herself into the arms of her husband, who 
 had now returned from his travels, she besought with tears 
 and entreaties, a remission of her offences and oblivion of 
 her past conduct. An act of such apparent candour, en- 
 
15 
 
 couraged a hope that their inquietudes might now be ex- 
 tinguished, and the happiness of the family be restored ''. 
 But short was the period of this hope. Whether the cold 
 and unforgiving character of Cosmo was incapable of 
 cherishing a heart susceptible of generous affection, and 
 of gently leading it back to the line of duty, or whether 
 the natural levity of the princess propelled her irrecove- 
 rably to evil, it is not easy to determine ; but very soon 
 after her reconciliation with her husband, she was detect* 
 ed in forming an intrigue with a Frenchman of the lowest 
 rank*, with whom she had projected an elopement. This 
 discovery produced the necessity of the strictest guard 
 being placed upon her conduct, and this restraint still 
 more increased her desire of flight ; so that, when in Pisa^ 
 it was discovered that she had formed a plan of escape by 
 associating with a company of gipsies. So disgraceful 
 an attempt could scarcely have been credited, had sht 
 not been overheard, from a window of the palace, carry* 
 ing on her treaty with these new allies. Enraged at this 
 prevention, her fury became boundless, and she conceived 
 the unnatural idea of destroying the infant of which she 
 
 '' The consequence of this reconciliation was the birth of a princess, on the 
 11th of August, 1667. 
 
 ' It is conjectured that he't\^ad a Peruquier. 
 
m 
 
 was then pregnant, by taking the most violent exercise 
 both on foot and on horseback ; but these wicked efforts 
 Mere frustrated, for soon after she was dehvered of a 
 daughter. All these intentions of withdrawing herself 
 from her husband, 4t:ere prompted by a secret wish to join 
 the Duke of Lorrain, in Germany. 
 
 Ferdinand again had recourse to his usual expedient for 
 rescuing his son from these scenes of disgrace. He deter- 
 mined to send him on a journey, through the Tyrol, down 
 the Bhine, into Holland ; and as at that time the banks of 
 the river were infected by the plague, he travelled by water; 
 nor was it without some peril that Cosmo arrived in safety 
 at Amsterdam. After an absence of a year, he returned 
 to Florence, but without having succeeded in the object 
 proposed by his father, that of eradicating from his heart 
 an ill-fated passion for his wife. The grand duke per- 
 ceiving that he was still too tenderly attached to her, for 
 his honour or his happiness, resolved on the proposal of a 
 more extensive journey, under a hope that some object 
 might be found to distract this love, or to convert it into 
 indifference. In compliance with the wishes of Ferdi- 
 nand, the prince prepared to travel through Spain, Portu- 
 gal, England, and Holland. In the month of September, 
 1668, he set sail from Leghorn, and landed at Barcelona, 
 
17 
 
 and passing from thence to Madrid, in the usual incog- 
 nito of princes, he traversed the whole western part of 
 Spain, and proceeded into Portugal. A m'Osi elaborate 
 account was kept of all that occurred in these travels, ac- 
 companied by designs made upon the spot wherever the 
 royal stranger was received, rested, or was detained^. 
 These designs, indeed, now form the principal object of 
 curiosity in what remains of this journal ; they are, how- 
 ever, feebly executed, the perspective, in many of them, 
 is very deficient, and they strongly mark the decline of 
 art which had then commenced in Florence. The state 
 of manners in Spain, at that period, appears to have been 
 nearly what it now is ; but some future traveller, desirous 
 of affording information respecting a country which has 
 lately engaged so much pubhc attention in England, 
 
 ' La sera del di 17 Settembre dell* Anno 1668, dopo d'aver pregato Iddio 
 nella Chiesa della Santissima Annonziata parti il Principe Cosimo alia volta 
 di Livorno per portarsi a di la su Due Galle a Barcelona. Dal Serenissimo 
 Gran Duca gli fiirono dati per corapagni ed assistenti al Viaggio, il Principe 
 Giovanni Andrea Miniglia, il Marchese Filippo Casini, il Signore Paolo 
 Falconieri, il Signore Dante da Castiglione, il Marchese Vieri Guadagni, il 
 Signore Lorenzo Magalotti, tutti Gentiluomini di Camera, dal Pittor Gio. 
 Sigismondo Coccapani e dall' Architettore Pier Maria Baldi. 
 
 Si dice che questo viaggio lo faccia per acquistar salute. 
 
 Archivis Comunitatlvo della parte nella Jilza di 
 notzie dell* Anno 1668 et 1669. FoL 283. 
 
TO 
 
 might, in all probability, derive some advantage by com- 
 paring his own designs with those of the artists who ac* 
 companied Cosmo in the seventeenth century. 7^ ,,«!i?gjs^i 
 
 From Lisbon, the Prince proceeded to Corunna, and 
 from thence, embarked for England; At this period 
 commences the description of his tour, of which a faith- 
 ful translation is given in this volume. 
 ii>Xhis account of the actions of a prince in the common 
 occurrences of life, may perhaps be foimd minute even 
 to tediousness, but this minuteness is not destitute of in- 
 terest. It opens a transient view of the state of society 
 in England at that time, as far as a prince could be ad- 
 mitted into it ; it affords an opportunity to record the 
 names, and even the circumstances of many families who 
 hastened to show him honour, or to offer him hospi- 
 tality ; and the drawings made of the different towns and 
 houses, are highly interesting, particularly those of Lon- 
 don and Westminster. At the risk, therefore, of fatiguing 
 the patience of the reader, the journal is literally trans- 
 lated, and the drawings engraved. An abridgment might 
 have been rendered more amusing, but would have lost 
 much of its information, and nian^^ c^ the drawings must 
 have been omitted. 
 
 From England, Cosmo sailed to Holland, a country 
 
then arrived at the summit of her commercial opulence 
 and maritime power. From Holland he proceeded to 
 Paris, where his manners, which were there courteous and 
 liberal, obtained a most flattering reception, and a far 
 more favourable opinion than the representations of his 
 wife had predisposed that court to entertain. He re- 
 turned by Marseilles to Florence, where he arrived on the 
 29th of October, 1669. On his arrival he was received 
 by Margaret Louisa with a degree of unaccustomed com- 
 placency. This change in her conduct arose, no doubt, 
 from a knowledge of the circumstances which had attend- 
 ed his visit to Paris, and particularly of the flattering at- 
 tentions which he had received from the king. 
 
 The declining health of his father now compelled the 
 prince to give a more diligent attention to public aflairs. 
 The grand duke was attacked by a dropsy, and, after a 
 protracted struggle with that dangerous disease, a fit of 
 apoplexy closed his valuable life on the 24th of May, in 
 the 59th year of his age, and the 49th of his reign ^. With 
 him was extinguished all that had rendered the Sovereigns 
 De Medici so long illustrious. Of all his predecessors, 
 
 ' Carlo Dati thus records the virtues of his patron : — 
 
 " Principum sapientissiinus, sapientum princeps, 
 Fovit artes et auxit, adamavit scientias et habuit." 
 
20 
 
 he was certainly the most affable, and therefore the most 
 popular. He possessed an enlarged and benevolent mind,; 
 a correct taste, and great learning. He was a generous 
 patron of the arts and sciences, and his patronage arose 
 from the same source with that of all the illustrious mem-^ 
 bers of his family, a just knowledge of the benefits to be 
 derived by a people from the study of true philosophy. It 
 was utterly devoidof all personal feeling or vanity, and was 
 directed by that delicacy of taste and sound judgment^ 
 without which all patronage has a tendency to impede 
 rather than to encourage the progress of science and of 
 art. ^iMS<9i 
 
 The grandeur of the court of Ferdinand did not con-^ 
 sist in ostentatious display, or in fastidious splendour, but 
 it was adorned with the society of all the most learned 
 and celebrated persons of the country. These he received 
 with the most courteous benevolence, honoured them by 
 his familiarity, and attached them to his person and go- 
 vernment by the dignified clemency of his manner. Such 
 liberality and condescension rendered the grand duke an 
 object of universal respect and admiration, and he as? 
 sumed for his motto " Gratia obvia, ultio quaesita." His 
 affability procured him the unbounded love of his subjects, 
 and made him the delight of the city of Florence, into the 
 
society and amusements of which he associated himself 
 with all the ease of a private person. Beneficent and 
 liberal, his treasury was open to succour the distressed, 
 to encourage the learned, and to promote the fine arts. 
 Ingenuous and steady to his purpose, faithful in his 
 friendships, and an exact performer of his promises, he 
 obtained the reputation of the strictest integrity. 
 
 To counterbalance these virtues, there were in the 
 character of Ferdinand some striking defects, which had 
 their origin in his constitution, rather than in his heart. 
 He gave the reins to his passions with an unrestrained^ 
 indulgence, amounting to profligacy ; nor was the con- 
 duct of his brothers more cautious than his own. From 
 the example of their princes, therefore, the Florentines 
 might have derived an additional elegance of manners ; 
 but it was, unhappily, mingled with licentiousness. The 
 grand duke lived with his brothers on terms of the strictest 
 friendship, he employed their talents in the administra- 
 tion of public affairs, with perfect confidence, and without* 
 the slightest jealousy. This harmony, so honourable to 
 themselves, and so advantageous to their country, made 
 Ferdinand still more sensible of the discord which sub- 
 sisted between Cosmo and Margaret Louisa ; and these 
 unhappy circumstances preyed upon his mind, and un- 
 
doubtedly accelerated his death. The commencement of 
 iSi<^ decline of the family of the Medici must, indeed, be 
 dated from the feeble and bigoted regency established du- 
 ring his minority ; but the administration of his brother, 
 and his own discriminating patronage, had partially re- 
 vived the manufactures and arts of Florence, and avert- 
 ed, for a short time, the destruction of that empire of 
 taste, which had, for so many ages, been established in 
 the favoured capital of Tuscany. At the death of Ferdi- 
 nand it lost its supporting pillar, and, sinking into rapid 
 deicline, at length relapsed into a state as barbarous as 
 that from which it had been revived by the fostering hands 
 of his predecessors. 
 
 Such were, externally, the circumstances of the Me- 
 dici family at the period when Cosmo III. began his 
 reign. The first acts of his administration were mild and 
 rational, and excited hopes that he would have pursued the 
 wise policy of his father ; but it was soon discovered that 
 his mind was weak, and that vanity was the sole guide of 
 all his actions. His regard for, and confidence in his 
 uncle Leopold, apparently continued,but he was no longer 
 guided by his counsels; nor was the prudent economy of 
 his father any longer preserved. The dissipation of the 
 immense treasures left by Cosmo II. to the Regents, had. 
 
m 
 
 at first, rendered that economy necessary, and custom had 
 confirmed it; but the splendour and, extravagance of tl)e 
 present court was inconsistent with the state of the financeis: 
 It was soon discovered that the travels of Cosmo, instead 
 of enlarging his mind, and enabling hiai).biy.acampariaoi| 
 with the laws and customs of other countries, to amend 
 those of his own, had only served to excite a prejudice 
 against Tuscany, and had induced him to adopt mann«;rs^ 
 dissimilar to those of his subjects, and offensive to their 
 
 feelings. 'nff^gnbiOfirrrr 
 
 Cosmo had become somewhat more reconciled >^ iti^ 
 disposition of his wife, and a specious appearance of de- 
 cency, hid from public observation their private dissen- 
 sions. But the turbulent and ambitious spirit of th^ grftnd 
 duchess soon tore aside this slender veil. Jealous of the 
 influence which his mother, the Grand Duchess Vittoria, 
 possessed over the mind of her husband, she insulted her 
 openly by every provoking expression, and demanded a 
 place in the council, and a voice in the deliberations o£ 
 the government. In revenge for such conduct, Vittoria 
 encouraged her son not to tolerate, any longer, the mis- 
 conduct of his wife. uq>y*j cn'. ■ ..-, 
 
 At this period, Margaret Louisa was delivered, of her 
 second son, who was named alter his maternal grandfather 
 
John Gaston. This event, although, in fact, it afterwards 
 |ended to the extinction of the family, was considered as 
 having secured the succession, and rendered the mind of 
 Cosmo, torn by pride and jealousy, less averse to a sepa- 
 ration than it had been at any former period of his mai^, 
 riage. # 
 
 's Availing hepelf of this disposition, the grand duchess 
 renewed her desire of returning into France; she coun-* 
 terfeited a disorder upon her lungs, and called in the as* 
 sistance of Al|i9,t|^€^.i?elebrated^^ysician of ^aris. That 
 acute observer was not, however, to be deceived. He 
 pronounced her to be free from any bodily disease which 
 rendered it necessary that she should reside at the^Baths 
 of St. Raine, in Champaign. To this p!ace,'irfdeed; her' se- 
 cret wishes, not her declining health had prompted her to 
 request permission to retire. Thus placed upon his guard, 
 Cosmo was enabled to see through her artifices, and rescH- 
 lutely opposed her wishes. Furious at such opposition^ 
 she filled, with unjust complaints, not only her own courts 
 but that of France ; she accused her husband of cruelty^ 
 and, pretending to be in fear of her life, took every pre* 
 vention against poison. Irritated by such unceasing disj* 
 respect, Cosmo adopted new and more resolute measures. 
 He banished from her train two German grooms and a 
 
French dancing master, who, for some time, had formed 
 her privy council. This measure, which he expected might 
 produce a violent effect on the grand duchess, he had the 
 mortification to see her endure with apparent humility and 
 submission. She now returned the attentions of Cosmo 
 himself, and the civilities which she received from his un- 
 cles, with so much cheerfulness, that he was lulled into a 
 deceitful hope that a perfect reconciliation might be ef- 
 fected. Duped by this dissimulation, for the lady well 
 knew how to employ every weapon of her art, he consent- 
 ed, with great willingness, to a request that she might 
 go to Prato, for purposes of devotion, and afterwards dine 
 at Poggio a Cajano. 
 
 On the 23rd of December, 1672, regardless of a violent 
 rain which almost rendered the roads impassable, she sum- 
 moned all her attendants, and accomplished her journey. 
 The dinner being finished at Poggio a Cajano, she 
 called into her presence her chamberlain, the Marquis 
 Malvezzi, and dispatched him to the grand duke, to an- 
 nounce her determination not to retura again to Florence, 
 but to remain where she was until himself or the kirtg 
 should assign her a more appropriate residence. Thus; 
 while Cosmo awaited in kindness, and even with fond ex- 
 pectation, the return of his wife, he received from her a 
 
26 
 
 letter too clearly indicative of the rancour and despera- 
 tiojpi of her mind. She sent this document of her violence 
 froiii Poggio ^ft^vCajano, the spot selected for her former 
 seclusion, and chosen by herself as that from which she 
 might vent her bitterest invectives* It will be found, with 
 some others connected with our history, which are given 
 in the Appendix. yrs i? S'j In 
 
 . j^Xhis, unexpected resolution of his wife, deeply affected 
 the enfeebled mind of Cosmo, and his reflections m ere em- 
 bittered by the recollection that he had himself furnished 
 l|^r with the means, of^^^firrying her purpose into effect, by 
 supplying her with a very considerable sum of money* 
 which her blandishments had extorted from him in a mo-» 
 iqe^j;j5)f, unsuspecting %i(|ness. Tq her deman4i|}f j^^? 
 paration, he replied in general terms, carefully avoiding 
 any declaration of his assent, lest she should proceed to 
 annul their marriage Yxi^^^^^^^^*^*'^ ordered that all 
 proper attendants and conveniences should be provided 
 for her at the Villa, 
 ,,. It^ tjiis situatiq|i,,<^ J affairs, the French court interfered 
 
 " The grand duchess always asserted the invalidity of her marriage, heir 
 consent having been forced and extorted from her, by the a.uthority of the 
 king. The desire to conceal from public knowledge this act of tyranny in 
 his family, induced Louis XIV. to feel such a liviely interest in these trans- 
 actions, d tiiwoo m^iis mtm^^ aoa* >:»» %ah 
 
V 
 
 27 
 
 with a serious intention of putting an end to such un* 
 happy dissensions. The Bishop of Marseilles, a prelate 
 of great piety, learning and eloquence, *wfts dispatched to 
 Florence, in company with the Marchioness de Deffansj 
 who had superintended the education of the grand 
 duchess, and by su^ch itiflliein'ce it wa,s hoped that she 
 might be induced to pursue a more dutiful line of con- 
 duct In the midst, however, of these negotiations, a let- 
 ter written to the grand duchess, by Prince Charles of 
 Lorrain, was intercepted and delivered into the hands of 
 Cosmo. This letter contained the most pernicious ad*- 
 vice and the most criminal expressions, tending to alienate 
 her still more from her duty. It laid open to Cosmo the 
 true motive which actuated all her conduct, and clMtljr 
 discovered that a passion for Prince Charles of Lorrain, 
 was the source of all his misery. Her degrading par- 
 tiality for the Germatf^^rtrottis, her indefatigable exertions 
 to learn the German language, a request made by her to 
 the Elector of Bavaria to grant her an asylum in his do- 
 minions, and a similar application made to the Duke of 
 Savoy, the greatest personal enemy of Cosmo, discovered 
 to him in the most palpable manner, the power and ex- 
 tent of this passion, and deprived him of every hope that 
 any reconciliation between them could be sincere or per- 
 
manent. The perseveririg attempts of the grand duchess 
 t6^ procure a separation, at length succeeded, and Loais 
 no longer refusing to grant her an asylum in France, the 
 arrangements necessary for this purpose were finally setr 
 tied by the Marchioness de Deffans as plenipotentiai^i 
 Cosmo was convinced that: her infidelity had left him no 
 hopes of amendment in her conduct, yet he probably would 
 liot have given his consent to this measure, had she us^ 
 again deceived him by an hypocritical declaration that 
 she felt an inspired wish to adopt a rehgious life, and to 
 ^]^ass the remainder of her days in acts of piety. This idea 
 induced him to believe her sincere in her penitene€ti3!§3i; 
 " The articles of separation, declared " that Margaret 
 'ILMsahad resolved to pass her future life in retirement 
 in the Convent of Montmartre, near Paris : that she 
 bound herself never to quit the convent without the per- 
 ^^ssion of the king : that she renounced her privileges as 
 princess of the blood : that she promised to keep only such 
 attendants as were approved by the abbess : that she 
 ^yttled upon her children whatever she might die pos- 
 sessed of: and agreed, solemnly, that her conduct should 
 
 ^ be blameless." ^h^ I' 
 
 On the l)<!^f"h{ftid;3M*eosmo stipulated, to allow her 
 
 80,000 French livres annually : to build her, in the 
 
convent, an apartment suitable to her rank: and to sup- 
 ply her with money to meet any incidental expenses." 
 Whe king was requested not only .t^become the guarantee 
 of this treaty, but to undertake the office of umpire in any 
 4ifferences which might arise between the parties. It soon 
 «^peared that it was easier to form such a treaty than to 
 Ijecure the fulfilment of it The king never gave his con 
 feent to undertake the office assigned to him,, and it was 
 
 iinly by the authority and firmness of the abbess, that tb§ 
 plans of the grand duchess were, at first, disconcerted-^ ^fg 
 BsbThe departure of the grand duchess fi:9mif,l§re|:^f;ey.55^ 
 regretted by the people, who, being ignorant of the e»- 
 
 Jtravagance of her conduct, entertained an affection for a 
 princess of captivating beauty, popular in he^^pj^j^^if, 
 
 aand addicted to gaiety and profusion. A report was in- 
 dustriously circulated, and universally believed, that her 
 husband and his mother had forced her to leave the 
 
 * country. ai:^gMiiCi 
 
 'i The proud and austere character of Cosmo was now 
 Imiversally known. The haughtiness of manner which 
 
 lihe assumed in all transactions with his subjects, and which 
 he had imitated from the Spaniards, his disdain of all 
 
 i.demency, gratitude and beneficence towards his people, 
 
 sbad converted the bright hopes which adorned the com- 
 
so 
 
 mencement of his reign, into hatred and fear. It was 
 therefore easy J?;- the grand duchess to excite the com- 
 miseration of the people, and to throw all the odium of 
 their separation upon a man already considered capable 
 of any act of harshness or barbarity. :i^ 4ttm^ .^...„..«^,*j 
 The day of her departure was fixed, and she requested 
 an interview with Cosmo to take leave of him ; but the 
 fears which he entertained of her violence, made him re- 
 fuse to admit ber into his presence. She delayed her 
 journey, shed tears over her children, still lingered in her 
 ^IWJugal home, and her mind was evidently softened by the 
 painful idea of separation. Her attendants saw this feel- 
 ing, and were induced to believe, that if Cosmo had 
 shown any tenderness on this occasion, her penitence 
 might have proved sincere, and a perfect reconciliation 
 have been effected. His conduct, however, confirmed the 
 public opinion that the separation was forced upon her, 
 and increased the unpopularity of Cosmo. Even from 
 Leghorn she wrote to him, and sent the letter by her con- 
 fessor, but he sternly refused to receive the one, or to ad- 
 mit the other into his presence, and on the 14th of June, 
 1675, she quitted for ever the shores of Tuscany. This 
 ^vent was regarded by the Florentines as introductory to 
 the fatal epoch of the downfal of the Medici family, and 
 
Bt 
 
 so generally and loudly was the public opinion expressed, 
 that it reached the ears of the king of France, and caused 
 him to alter the favourable opinion which he had formed 
 of the conduct of Cosmo, and to view with pity the situa- 
 tion of the grand duchess. On her arrival at Montmartre^ 
 she was visited by all the princes of the blood, and after^ 
 wards presented to the king, from whom she obtained ^ 
 long audience. Her captivating manners, and fair pro*- 
 mises of future regularity, so far coiieilidt(E?d thi^ i^yMl ftlV 
 vour, that his Majesty went to sup with her in the cont 
 ijneat^and she soon acquired great influence at courtr ,.Sp 
 great indeed was this influence, that it was an noli need to 
 Gondi, the Tuscan ambassador, that the king did not 
 consider himself as responsible for her conduct, and that 
 it was inconsistent with his dignity to undertake a vigilant 
 inspection of it. This declaration occasioned great un*- 
 easiness to Cosmo, who had hoped to find in her royai 
 relation, a power to control those irregularities of hi^ 
 wife, which he hadfound himself unable to restrain. 
 
 The grand duchess now felt herself released from -^tif 
 effectual restraint She frequented all the festivals given 
 by "the court, and partook of all its pleasures; and her 
 elegant manners and cultivat^ed tiifnd/ soon gained Itef^tW 
 regard of the kmgj and the protection of the most powerful 
 
32 
 
 persons within the courtly circle ; while the abbess herself, 
 observing the high estimation in which she was held, felt 
 an inclination to relax from her former austerity. Cosmo 
 was irritated beyond measure at the liberty thus granted 
 to his wife, and his jealousy prompted him to every act 
 of revenge. In the mean time Margaret Louisa increased 
 bis anxiety, by informing his ambassador that the fulfil- 
 ment of the treaty depended solely upon herself, for she 
 <iould not consider it valid, inasmuch as it was extorted 
 from her when under constraint. She now began to com- 
 plain of the air of Montmartre as prejudicial to her health, 
 but, in fact, her conduct had occasioned such a breach in 
 the discipHne of the convent, that the abbess perceived the 
 necessity of reassuming the severest discipline, or of totally 
 relinquishing her authority. All these circumstances 
 supplied ample food for the wit and ridicule of the court 
 of France, and the domestic feuds of the Tuscan family 
 were the universal jest. Disappointed in all his hopes, 
 ridiculed and despised in the most polite circles of Europe, 
 in which he had flattered himself that he had obtained dis- 
 tinction and esteem, Cosmo felt an equal wound inflicted 
 upon his honour and his pride. He gave his disturbed 
 mind to dissimulation, revenge and bigotry ; he found a 
 satisfaction in acts of cruelty and oppression ; and the 
 
33 
 
 death of his uncle Leopold, removed the last slender re* 
 ||^ii|i^^)f hich had hitltiertQ iiupeidgd^a n^tpre extensive in- 
 dulgence of vices so degi^adift^toV prince.' 
 
 The wise and virtuous Leopold inherited, from nature, 
 frjieeble constitution, and the death of his brother Ferdi- 
 nand gave a shock to his tender frame, from which he did 
 not recover ; but, exhausted by continual disease, sunk 
 uiider it on the 10th of November, l67^p^*fcHSn this excel* 
 lent prelate, was extinguished the gloiJrbi#ithe house of 
 ISiJ^JGi ; BO one after him was worthy of the name, and 
 i^bn^ before him had carried its honour tc^^'gfelittej'dte 
 gree of elevation. When'>he^Jtssumed the purple, he re- 
 linquished tlje supeiintendency of the Academy del Ci- 
 la^nto, considering it derogat(>r3^ td"the'd?gfiity of a c^ 
 dinal to attend to the researches of specidative science* 
 but, during his whole life, he was a zealous patron i^id 
 encourager of learning, and his ample reveniies enabled 
 him generously to reward merit iii every science and in 
 every station. His character appears to have be^'lifee 
 from the vices and weaknesses which disgraced the most 
 illustrious members of his family, and, at the period of his 
 decease, no name in Europe was more Mg-hl/ 'Idistin- 
 guished for learning and virtue than that of Leopold. 
 With the assistance of this great relative and adviser, nb 
 
prince of the Medici race might have obtained the glory 
 arising from the encouragement of learning and the arts,i 
 in a more extensive degree than Cosmo. In his time, 
 Florence abounded in men of deep, refined and elegant 
 learning, and the members of the Academy del Cimento 
 had nourished that truth and soundness of understanding, 
 which naturally arise from real science. The vanity of 
 Cosmo was not insensible to the glory arising from the pa- 
 tronage of such science, nor had his education been so de- 
 fective as to Tender him incapable of appreciating its 
 value ; but his meanness led him to neglect men of real 
 learning, and to extend all his favour to vain pretenders 
 to it, so that true genius and talent began to retire from 
 the once genial clime of Tuscany, and to seek protection 
 ion other shores'. 
 
 After the departure of the grand duchess, and the death 
 of his uncle, Cosmo pursued an extraordinary course of 
 life. Desirous of relieving his character from that de- 
 gradation into which the representations of his wife had 
 sunk it in the court of France, he resorted to a most gor- 
 geous exercise of the ceremonies of his religion. To these 
 was added an ostentatious luxury; and the attentions of the 
 Tuscan court were divided between festivals of the great- 
 
 ' Magalotti retired to Vienna. 
 
35 
 
 est solemnity, and banquets of the most effeminate indul- 
 gence. The luxuries of every climate abounded at his 
 table, and its splendour was increased by the attendance 
 of foreign servants arrayed in the habits of their different 
 nations. A sumptuous extravagance prevailed at these 
 entertainments, which, disgusted by its profusion, and 
 clearly indicated that vanity, rather than hospitality, gave 
 rise to the feast. To these banquets, strangers of every 
 country were admitted, who might publish the account of 
 their extravagant splendour, while the subjects of Tuscany 
 were excluded. Irritated by such neglect, and oppressed 
 by increasing taxes, the Tuscans did not conceal their 
 hatred and derision, whilst Cosmo seemed to gratify the 
 revengeful feelings which had been excited by the conduct 
 of his wife, by acts of oppression towards his suffering 
 subjects. .V,. ,^^ -^ 
 
 At this period, had the mind of Cosmo been capable 
 of any great measure, he might have realized the just 
 pretensions of the Medici to the dukedom of Lorrain, and 
 have averted from his country that dishonour which ac- 
 companied the fall of his once illustrious family. But 
 while the grand duke thus abandoned his most important 
 interests, his mind was occupied in the pursuits of a 
 trifling vanity, and tortured by the love which he still bore 
 
36 
 
 -ife^Margaret Louisa. Her behaviour excited him to 
 jealousy and revenge. He kept spies constantly employed 
 to watch over her conduct, and she continued to give ample 
 room for his suspicions ; for after having for some time 
 adopted a conduct so specious, as to procure for herself 
 the protection of the king and of his ministers, and the 
 regards of the abbess, she at length resolved to throw off 
 all restraint. Weary of this hypocritical part, or presu- 
 ming on the favour of the king, she bid defiance to all 
 the discipline of the convent ; plays, balls, entertain- 
 ments and equestrian parties, were substituted for atten- 
 Idance on religiovis ceremonies ; all deference to the autho- 
 rity of the abbess was laid aside ; and she formed to her- 
 self a society of gardes de corps and grooms from her 
 ^stable. The slanders against Cosmo were propagated 
 " with increasing industry, and she hoped to palliate the 
 indelicacy of her own conduct by calumny against his. 
 If he could have found sufficient courage to treat these 
 reports with disdain, and to banish her from his thoughts, 
 'the truth would soon have been discovered, nor would he 
 have suffered the bitter mortification of knowing from his 
 spies, the contemptuous insinuations which were thrown 
 upon him at the French court. He never ceased to ad- 
 dress the king and the Pompopfe. ministry, with demands 
 
"57 
 
 •that her conduct should be restrained ; but her impru- 
 
 ^dence was attributed to cruelty in him, and his remon- 
 strances seemed only to produce additional invitations, 
 which admitted her into all the splendid amusements of 
 the court. At length, the abbess, perceiving the morals 
 of her convent to be seriously injured by the uncouth so- 
 ciety which the grand duchess had introduced into it, ad- 
 dressed a formal request to the king, that an order might 
 be issued to exclude the gardes de corps and grooms from 
 the convent, to prohibit her frequent absences, and to put 
 some limitation to her expenditure. The king acknow- 
 ledged the reasonableness of this demand, and confessed 
 that her conduct exhibited no good example of dignity or 
 decorum, but contented himself with forbidding her ap- 
 
 ^pearance at court during the night. From all the princes 
 of the blood, however, she still enjoyed the greatest protec- 
 
 '*^tion and favour ; she was invited to all the entertainments 
 given by the court in the different country residences, 
 which abounded in a freedom bordering on licentiousness; 
 and these invitations drew her from retirement, dissipated 
 all reflection from her mind, and gave encouragement to 
 those levities which her French associates considered as 
 the effects of natural vivacity, but which Cosmo deemed 
 to be the marks of profligacy and infidelity. In vain did 
 
38 
 
 Gondi fatigue the ministry with complaints ; as soon as 
 one set of disreputable companions was removed from her 
 confidence, she substituted others, and evaded by strata- 
 gem, all attempts to regulate her society. In vain did 
 the abbess deplore the discipline of her convent, which 
 was utterly destroyed by the introduction of such inmates; 
 her orders found no obedience, and she was heard to avow 
 " that she could tolerate more readily the presence of the 
 devil himself, than that of such a rebellious and turbulent 
 spirit." Indeed the peace of the convent was only pre- 
 served during those short absences which she was permit- 
 ted to indulge in, under the pretence of seeking a change 
 of air for the benefit of her health, but in fact for the pur- 
 pose of enjoying, without control, that sort of society to 
 which she had abandoned herself ; so that Gondi wrote 
 thus to Cosmo. — " In this country so great is the deference 
 paid to women by those who govern, and every act they 
 commit is so readily excused, that I cannot entertain any 
 hopes of seeing greater strictness adopted." 
 
 It still continued to be the great object of the life of 
 Cosmo to control the conduct of his wife, although he 
 had formally renounced all title to intefere with it, and, at 
 length, he so far effected his purpose, as to procure a refu- 
 sal to her request, that apartments might be specifically al- 
 
39 
 
 lotted to her in all the country residences of the court 
 The dismissal of the Pompone administration, increased 
 his power of opposing her wishes. He had considerable 
 influence with the new ministers, and the king was in- 
 duced to command her to be more circumspect in her 
 conduct, to confine herself more strictly to the rules of the 
 convent, and limit the unreasonable indulgence of her 
 pleasures. Her life, thus circumscribed, soon became 
 irksome to her, and judging from the anxiety of the grand 
 duke respecting her conduct, that he had not yet dis- 
 missed her altogether from his affections, she had recourse 
 to her former artifices, that she might again prevail on him 
 to receive her as his wife. France, when she had forfeited 
 the protection of the king, could no longer afford her 
 those pleasures, for which she seemed to live ; and the cor- 
 pulency of Cosmo, which had become excessive, led her to 
 suspect that his life might be of short duration. If, there- 
 fore, she could be recalled to Florence, she indulged a 
 secret hope that she might, in the event of his death, seize 
 on the reins of government during the minority of her 
 son. But the grand duke refused to receive her, until, 
 by a long probation of prudent and religious conduct, she 
 might prove herself worthy of his forgiveness ; and he 
 steadily persisted in this refusal. She now attempted to 
 
40 
 
 engage the Pope to Isecome the mediator, bat this office 
 was declined, upon a full consideration of her motives. In^ 
 revenge for this rejection of her wishes, she invented new 
 calumnies against her husband, and even her children. 
 Her daughter, who had been named as a proper alliance 
 for the dauphin, was objected to by the court of France, 
 in consequence of insinuations against her character, 
 which originated with her mother. The refusal of a re* 
 quest that she might be permitted to reside at the Luxem- 
 bourg, with her sister Madame De Guise, drove her to 
 desperation, and she at last set fire to the convent, that 
 she might escape from it. The abbess was so convinced 
 of this, that her representations induced the grand duke to 
 incur a considerable expense in the formation of a reser- 
 voir of water as a preservation against any future accident 
 of the same kind. Cosmo did not neglect this occasion 
 to demand an increase of rigour towards his wife, and 
 she expressed her anger against him in a letter conceived 
 in such feelings of vengeance, as to afford a very extraor- 
 dinary specimen of female violence. The threats con-^ 
 tained in this letter were not vain. Driven to that des- 
 peration, which is blind to every consequence, but the gra- 
 tification of the vengeance from which it originates, she 
 openly laid aside all respect for the abbess, and even for 
 
41 
 
 the authority of the king, and gave herself without con- 
 cealment to the most degrading connexions. A groom 
 became, both in public and private, her sole confidant, 
 and the arbiter of all her actions, while every other atten- 
 dant who appeared jealous of this preference, or was sus- 
 pected of giving information to Cosmo, was discharged. 
 Her journies, her absence from the convent, and her re- 
 sidence at different public baths, became more frequent, 
 and revealed to the world her own infamy and the dis- 
 honour of Cosmo. The king, to whom her angry lettet 
 had been shown, instead of expressing his displeasure, was 
 greatly amused by it, and turned the whole affair into ri- 
 dicule ; while the grand duchess, availing herself of this 
 feeling, engaged him, in compliance with his indulgence 
 to the fair sex, to second an application for an increase of 
 her allowance, which, although it amounted to 80,000 
 livres, she asserted to be inadequate to her rank. This 
 application, urged at a moment when her husband felt 
 himself entitled to a very different interference on the part 
 of the king, met with a direct refusal. Unaccustomed to 
 the slightest opposition to his wishes, his majesty openly 
 expressed his disgust at such meanness, and at the absur- 
 dity of the continuance of such petty family disputes. He 
 informed the Cardinal Bonzi, " that, when Cosmo con- 
 
4d 
 
 sented to the retirement of his wife into France, he had 
 virtually relinquished all right to interfere in her conduct; 
 that the anxiety which he exhibited concerning her beha- 
 viour, was inconsistent with his usual prudence ; that 
 his prosecution of revenge against her could only be at- 
 tributed to an alienation of his reason, and that he could 
 not practise any additional rigour towards her without 
 subjecting himself to a charge of injustice." This decla- 
 ration of the king occasioned the most severe mortification 
 to the grand duke. He found himself a subject of ridi- 
 cule and contempt at the court, and the ministers replied 
 to his representations, " that a vain and proud spirit could 
 only be met with imperious contempt." These circum- 
 stances excited such agitation of mind, that he was seized 
 with a sickness which endangered his life. His sedentary 
 and intemperate habits had rendered him very corpulent, 
 and his illness gave hopes to the Tuscan people that his 
 oppressive and hated reign was advancing to its termina- 
 tion. This state of his father's health was communicated 
 to the grand duchess, by Ferdinand, her eldest son, whose 
 love of dissipation had so far rendered his situation in his 
 father's court disagreeable, that he openly declared his 
 respect for the encouragement given to taste by his ances- 
 tors, and his aversion to the hypocrisy and false learning 
 
45 
 
 which then prevailed at Florence. In his letters to his 
 mother, young Ferdinand expressed his discontent, and 
 even declared his hopes of liberation by the speedy death 
 of his father. These letters his mother was imprudent 
 enough to make public, and boasted that, on the event of 
 the death of her detested husband, she should return in- 
 stantly to Florence, banish hypocrisy from the court, and 
 re-establish the government upon those principles of good 
 taste, liberality, and the encouragement of philosophy, 
 which had adorned the reign of Ferdinand II. This iuf 
 tention she declared openly to the ambassador of Cosmo, 
 and added, that her first act would be the dismissal of his 
 two confidential ministers, the Marquisses x^lbizzi and 
 Corsini, and of Feroni, the superintendant of his domestic 
 concerns, whose ideas she considered as too mercantile and 
 inconsistent with the dignity of his sovereign. But these 
 high designs were frustrated ; Cosmo regained his health, 
 and with it, an increase of hatred and vengeance against 
 bis wife and all those who had desired his death. He 
 discovered that the correspondence between the grand 
 duchess and her son, had been assisted by the Lorenzini, 
 two young men possessed of elegant learning and great 
 mathematical knowledge, who were the confidential friends 
 of Ferdinand. These were the first victims of his fury ; 
 
 OS 
 
44 
 
 they were seized and thrown into the deep dungeons of 
 the tower p^yplter^ iR i^^^h rigorous and unwholesojofte 
 confinement, they wasted their health and the best of their 
 days. This cruel treatment of his friends, induced Fer- 
 dinand to form a party in avowed opposition to his father. 
 He had now attained to the age of eighteen, with a mind 
 addicted to pleasure and the pursuits of taste ; and a 
 number 9fjjdissolute young men, attached to his person 
 and interests, were formed under his protection, at Flo- 
 rence, into a society, which soon became formidable to the 
 government of Cosmo. The prince's love of music led hinj 
 to pass much of his time in the cultivation of that fasci- 
 nating science, the ardent pursuit of which is not always 
 to be carried on in the best society. Captivated by this 
 taste, he selected a musician for his friend, and gave him 
 ^ gr,^^t,^|iare ofthat confidence which princes should only 
 bestow upon the great and good. 
 
 ^ The grand duke did not venture openly to attack these 
 (Jangerpus companions of his son, or to remove them at 
 once from his society, but contented himself with seeking 
 every opportunity to persecute them. Such conduct iur 
 creased the^ general odium which attended his government, 
 for Ferdinand had become very popular, and the people of 
 Florence did not conceal their wish of seeing him upon the 
 
45 
 
 throne. The health of Cosmo, re-established by Redi, 
 was preserved by a strict vegetable diet, which did not, 
 however, diminish the luxury of hfs table. The fruits of 
 every climate were procured to gratify his palate, and the 
 cultivation of exotics was, at this period, carried on to a 
 high degree of perfection in the gardens of Florence. 
 Strong exercise was also recommended to the grand duke, 
 iaift^ he passed much of his time in the pursuits of the 
 field at the Villa Ambrogiana ; near to which he had 
 founded a monastery of Alcanterine monks, in whose con- 
 versation he found his gr^tfest' pleasure. These men be- 
 came the controllers of his government ; and every candi- 
 date for employment was obliged to assume the external 
 appearance of devotion; so that hypocrisy became the only 
 recommendation to offices of the state. Detestable as this 
 vice must appear in a private person, it is doubly perni- 
 cious in a prince, serving only as a cloak to the indulgence 
 of every other crime. It was impossible not to attribute 
 this vice to Cosmo, while his tyrannical treatment of the 
 Lorenzini, and many other of his subjects, proved that 
 his faith had no effect in softening the asperity of his 
 temper, and that his religion was destitute of its fairest 
 fruits, the virtues of morality and benevolence. The chief 
 occupation of his court consisted in attending to ha- 
 
46 
 
 rangues from the pulpit, and in religious ceremonies. 
 His priests regulated every change of the government, 
 were the arbiters of every marriage, the despots of every 
 family, and finally, the only medium between the prince 
 and the peopled Under such a government, abandoned 
 to ignorance, dissimulation and hypocrisy, Tuscany be- 
 gan to decline rapidly from that proud eminence of learn- 
 ino- and of taste to which she had ascended under her 
 former rulers. The conduct and divisions of the court, 
 accelerated her fall ; for while the friends of Cosmo were 
 occupied in external devotion, gravity and austerity, those 
 of Ferdinand, his son, and of Francis Maria, his brother, 
 exhibited the opposite excesses of licentiousness. This 
 latter prince, when released from the restraint imposed on 
 him by his mother, had indulged his taste for the fine arts 
 even to effeminacy ; and though he had been destined from 
 his youth for the ecclesiastical habit, he had never been 
 able to assume that gravity of demeanour which the pur* 
 pie seems to demand. His ample revenues, which he en- 
 joyed principally from Spain, enabled him to give full 
 freedom to his taste, and he became the associate of his 
 " So severe was the observance of the external forms of religion, that any 
 one who did not kneel down in the street when the bell sounded at noon to 
 claim an Ave Maria, whatever might be the state of the weather, was instantly 
 conveyed to prison. 
 
47 
 
 nephew and his companions in all tHeiir excesses. Im- 
 patient of the formality of the court of Cosmo, they spent 
 their time at their villas, in the commission of every irre- 
 gularity which could provoke him or outrage his priests, 
 and tolerated in their adherents, every vice which unre- 
 strained luxury could produce. Their profligacy, and the 
 hypocrisy of the court, were equally pernicious to the ge- 
 neral state of morality ; and Tuscany, which had been re- 
 garded as an example to improve the science, and a 
 standard to regulate the taste of every other Italian state, 
 lost this graceful ascendancy. Weak and pusillanimous 
 as was the conduct of Cosmo towards his son and bro- 
 ther, still more did he feel his impotency in his attempts 
 to punish his wife, whose conduct was a source of unceas- 
 ing torment to him. She had now bestowed her confidence 
 upon a groom, whom she had promoted to the office of 
 her chamberlain ; and the king positively refused to ba- 
 nish this man, alleging that any notice of him could 
 only end in a promulgation of the shame both of Cosmo 
 and his wife. This forbearance encouraged the grand 
 duchess to denounce vengeance against any of her house- 
 hold who should hold any correspondence with Cosmo, 
 while he determined to withhold from her the allowance 
 she had received ; but the king informed him that he 
 
48 
 
 would not permit this, and his treatment of the Pope had 
 convinced every other Itahan prince, that Louis never 
 threatened in vain. These circumstances, added to the 
 unpopularity of Cosmo at the French court ; and the 
 ministers reproached Gondi with the meanness of his mas- 
 ter, in thus persecuting a princess under the protection of 
 their king. In the mean time, the violence of his wife, 
 and the character of those who enjoyed her confidence, 
 made the grand duke apprehensive that his hfe might not 
 be unassailable. Alarmed by this idea, he recalled his 
 ambassador from Paris, and left her at liberty to pursue 
 her inclinations without interference. 
 
 At this period war broke out, and the weakness of 
 Cosmo's government became evident. A strict neutrality 
 was agreed upon by all the Italian states, except the duke 
 of Savoy, who had declared for the French. The Turks, 
 instigated by the French, had declared war against the 
 Emperor, and had carried their successes to the very walls 
 of Vienna, with every prospect of obtaining the city by 
 siege; and, in such an event, the future subjugation of 
 Italy was inevitable, as the Austrian power was the only 
 bulwark which defended it from this fearful enemy. 
 Alarmed at this approaching danger, the people crowded 
 the streets in habits of mourning, and thronged the tern- 
 
49 
 
 pies to implore the protection of heaven ; but the victory'* 
 which the Imperiahsts under the command of John So- 
 biesky and Charles, Duke of Lorrain, gained o^ei" 'the 
 Ottomans, beneath the walls of the city, turned this 
 mourning into joy ; and Cosmo had the mortification to 
 be obliged to join in the general festivity, and to extol the 
 glory of his most hated rival. A league against the Turks ^' 
 was now formed between the Emperor, the Republic of Ve- 
 nice, and the Grand Duke; and such was the reduced state 
 of her finances, that a force consisting of four gallies, some 
 lighter vessels, and a few regiments, was considered too 
 great an effort for Tuscany to supply. But the eyes of^ 
 the Italians were now directed to a nearer and more im- 
 minent danger. The French had possessed themselves of 
 Luxembourg, and their arms were every where victorious. ' 
 Great levies of troops were assembling at Casal, which they > 
 had purchased from the duke of Mantua, they threatened 
 to overrun Lombardy, and, being masters of the sea, they 
 might enter Italy from the side of Leghorn. They had ex- 
 ercised this power already in the bombardment of Genoa, 
 and had so far humbled that republic, as to oblige it to 
 send the Doge and four of his principal citizens, to humble 
 themselves before Louis. To avert this danger, and to 
 propitiate that monarch, Cosmo had made him an offeri 
 
so 
 
 to become the arbiter of marriage for his two children, 
 Ferdinand and Anne. 
 
 Ferdinand had attained his twenty-second year, and 
 the circumscribed enjoyments of Florence, had induced 
 him to seek a more extensive range of pleasure in a visit 
 to foreign countries. The amusements of the theatre were 
 then beginning to be the ruling taste of Italy, as they have 
 ever since continued to be, and the northern provinces 
 were, at that time, most celebrated for their public per- 
 formances. By a strange perversion of language, the 
 science of music was then denominated virtu, and its pro- 
 fessors virtuosi. Venice, at this period, was superior to 
 €very other city in the elegance of her opera, and the 
 number of virtuosi which appeared upon her stage. 
 Amours with these people were the predominant pas- 
 sion of the day, and many of the Italian princes, and still 
 moxe from Germany, thronged to Venice, and not only 
 dissipated immense sums, but whole provinces in the in- 
 dulgence of this vicious taste. Ferdinand Charles, Duke 
 of Mantua, had not only lavished the sum received from 
 the French, for the purchase of Casal, but had disposed of 
 all his most valuable effects, and oppressed his subjects 
 with exorbitant and intolerable taxes, to gratify the ex- 
 travagance and caprice of his virtuosa. The emulation 
 
of Ferdinand of Florence was roused by this extravagant 
 splendour ; he burned to excel the unworthy example, 
 but Cosmo was unable, without the greatest difficulty, to 
 gratify the desire of the young prince. The people of 
 Tuscany were suffering greatly from the taxes already im- 
 posed, and a scarcity, as well as the expenses of their ar-* 
 mament, had reduced the treasury to the lowest states 
 The grand duke, therefore, would not accede to his son'd 
 desire to travel, until Ferdinand had consented to form af 
 matrimonial connexion. This, indeed, was an event itf 
 the family, which many circumstances rendered it expe^ 
 dient not to defer. The slender form of his younger son^ 
 John Gaston, and the corpulency of his brother, created 
 some apprehension in the mind of Cosmo, that his family 
 might become extinct, unless this measure was speedily 
 adopted; and under the sanction of Louis XIV., with the 
 assistance of the Jesuits, a treaty was set on foot to effect 
 a double union with the house of Braganza. It was bro- 
 ken off by the only act of political virtue which adorned 
 the life of Cosmo. It was proposed, that, in case of the 
 infanta becoming entitled to the crown of Portugal, Tus- 
 cany should be annexed to that kingdom, that Ferdinand 
 should reside at Lisbon, and that Florence should be go^ 
 
 verned by a viceroy. To this arrangement, the grand 
 
 us 
 
52 
 
 duke objected, firmly declaring " that the crown having 
 been given to his family by the free suffrages of the Flo- 
 rentine senate, he never would consent that Tuscany should 
 become a tributary province." 
 
 - The marriage of his son being thus prevented, Cosmo 
 could no longer refuse him his permission to undertake 
 the desired journey to Venice ; and, on his arrival in that 
 city, he soon distinguished himself among the number of 
 extravagant princes, who followed the train of the virtuosi ; 
 and his immoderate indulgence of these pleasures, occa- 
 sioned so severe an injury to his health, that he never re- 
 covered from the effects of his ill-fated journey. During 
 his absence, another treaty of marriage was entered upon 
 with the Princess Violante of Bavaria ; but great difficul- 
 ties arose in carrying it into execution. 
 
 During the wars in Germany, the Elector Maximilian, 
 of Bavaria, had confided to the grand duke Ferdinand II., 
 300,000 ungheri' in gold, to serve him in case of emer- 
 gency, and having received back a third part of the money, 
 had requested the grand duke to vest the remainder upon 
 interest. This sum was placed upon the security of the 
 Monte de Pieta at Florence, then considered as the most 
 substantial fund in Europe. But the bankruptcy of this 
 ' The value of an ungheri is about five shillings and sixpence. 
 
53 
 
 establishment in 1645, occasioned the loss of the money to 
 the elector, who claimed the payment of it from the grand 
 duke. A dispute arose between the two princes upon this 
 affair, which was carried on by their descendants ; but it 
 was now finally arranged in the agreement respecting the 
 dower of the princess, and the marriage being concluded 
 upon, the Marquis Corsini was dispatched to Munich, and 
 the princess arrived at Florence on the 27th of December, 
 1688. During these negotiations, Cosmo experienced 
 another injury from his wife, which gave him the severest 
 mortification. She disposed of her annuity for a sum o£ 
 money, and having contracted debts for her ordinary sub- 
 sistence, engaged the king to second her application for 
 the payment of them. She had contrived to ingratiate 
 herself with Madame Maintenon, and thus regained the 
 protection of Louis, which she soon began to employ in the 
 annoyance of her husband. Her application, however, 
 was refused by the gi-and duke ; and the duchess, desi- 
 rous to make him the object of public dislike, wrote a let- 
 ter to her son, describing her poverty, and requesting him 
 to supply her with money to relieve her wants. If he was 
 unable to assist her, she desired him to purloin some va- 
 luable jewel, and send it to her. This letter she industri- 
 ously circulated through the court, that the king might be 
 
m 
 
 induced to exert himself in her cause. The French mi- 
 nister was soon dispatched to Florence, and adding threats 
 to arguments, he obliged the grand duke (as he himself 
 expressed it) to " drink the bitter cup," and to disburse 
 60,000 lives for the payment of her debts. The anxiety 
 of Cosmo, on this occasion, produced a fit of illness, 
 which, if not dangerous, was of long duration. The 
 unfortunate prince found, however, some consolation 
 vmder his domestic afflictions, in the disposition of his 
 new daughter-in-law. This princess, according to the 
 description of historians, was not beautiful, although her 
 pictures declare her not to have been destitute of personal 
 charms ; but her mind was so amiable, that Cosmo him- 
 self gives a just description of her character, when writing 
 to one of his confidential priests, he says, " I liave never 
 known, nor do I think the world can produce, a disposi- 
 tion so perfect and amiable as hers, nor a lady whose mind 
 is more candid, who possesses a greater desire to please 
 and to be kind to all, is of more tender docility, or has a 
 greater inclination to piety. These perfections render her 
 the love and delight of us all, so that I am perfectly con- 
 tented with her, and feel that I am unworthy of so great 
 a blessing." 
 
 The war which had now broken out, rendered the si- 
 
55 
 
 tuation of the grand duke extremely distressing. He 
 felt the greatest necessity to remain neutral, and required 
 tlie protection of one of the stronger powers to enable him 
 to maintain his neutrality. In this dilemnja, he attempt- 
 ed to gain himself the assistance of Spain, by a marriage 
 between Charles II. and his daughter Anne ; but in this 
 he had the mortification to fail, principally from a want 
 of dexterity in negociation ; which was a most severe blow 
 to his vanity, as he found the inferior family of the Elector 
 Palatine preferred before him. Cosmo was seriously dis- 
 tressed at this failure of his schemes, as he found himself 
 without support, and obliged to depend upon his own re- 
 sources for his defence. 
 
 m: These were now found to be totally inadequate to the 
 exigency of the case. The ostentatious expenses which he 
 incurred to gratify his vanity, the enormous sums he had 
 expended in the erection and endowment of monasteries, 
 and in the reparation of such as had fallen into decay, the 
 furnishing these buildings, and supplying their societies 
 with pompous decorations for their religious ceremonies, 
 had reduced his finances to the lowest pitch. Nor was it 
 to Tuscany alone these useless extravagancies were con- 
 fined ; not a temple of any renown or veneration, but had 
 received from the bigotry of Cosmo, some splendid gift. 
 
Added to these, were the sums extorted from him by the 
 priests, for acts of piety, and, more particularly, his dona- 
 tions to the proselytes who thronged his court, and who, 
 whether Jews, Turks or Protestants, were all endowed 
 with ample pensions. Another cause of his distress arose 
 from his extensive employment of spies, not for the pur- 
 pose of discovery and prevention of crime, but of gaining 
 information respecting the opinion of his subjects relating 
 to himself. This expense was indeed useless, the hatred 
 of his people being just, and their expression of it open. 
 Overburdened with taxes, which were exacted with the 
 greatest harshness, they felt severely the misery of being 
 surrounded on all sides by insidious spies, and their de- 
 sire for change of government was not attempted to be 
 concealed. Such were the pecuniary difficulties of Cosmo, 
 who now felt the necessity of adopting a more rigorous 
 economy, and, attempting to begin it in his own family, 
 he was surprized to meet with the most resolute opposition 
 to his plans from his son. : 
 
 Accustomed to expense without limitation, Ferdinand 
 <^uld not tolerate a diminution of his extravagance, and 
 secure of the love of the public and of the desire univer- 
 sally felt for a change, he treated his father with disobe- 
 dience, and his ministers with disrespect. His letters are 
 
fiill of reproach and remonstrance, equally undutiful and 
 offensive, and he appears, in these, to have imitated the 
 style of his mother. 
 
 These galling reproofs frbm a son, embittered the mind 
 of Cosmo, while he continued to feel the misfortunes which 
 had so long assailed him from his other family dissen- 
 sions. 
 
 That he might become reconciled to his son, and re- 
 store himself to some repose of mind, he was under the 
 necessity of having recourse to a most humiliating expe- 
 dient. The chief confidant of Ferdinand was a virtuoso, 
 Francisco de Castris, who had gained an entire ascendancy 
 over his mind. To his degrading interference, Cosmo was 
 obliged to apply, and the virtuoso appeared soon after an- 
 nounced to the public as the guarantee to the observance 
 of a treaty entered into between the father and the son. 
 A sufficient revenue was secured to Ferdinand, and the 
 musician took upon himself to promise that the prince 
 should in future be obedient to Cosmo, and respectful to 
 his ministers. 
 
 ^'"At this juncture, another domestic occurrence took 
 place in the family of the grand duke, the marriage of his 
 daughter to the Elector Palatine. This princess had 
 twice been rejected by Spain, was refused by Portugal, by 
 
 / 
 
s 
 
 58 
 
 the Dauphin, and by the duke of Savoy. The Dauphin 
 was now a widower, and the ambition of Cosmo made 
 him undertake a second treaty to marry, her to that prince; 
 but in this all the address of the Cardinal Bonzi, was in- 
 effectual, so that the match with the Elector Palatine, the 
 only one which FeMiaified for the princess, who was in her 
 twenty-third year, was rather a matter of necessity than of 
 choice. But Cosmo gained in his son-in-law, a zealous 
 and active friend, and one who had really the interests of 
 his house more at heart than he could have expected in a 
 more splendid alliance. 
 
 The successes of the allies had at this time put a check 
 to the rapid fortune of the French, and the pride of their 
 haughty monarch had been considerably humbled. Such 
 a moment appeared to Cosmo particularly favorable to 
 gain some advantage over his wife, and to give him an op-^ 
 portunity for vengeance. Time had not yet subdued her 
 passions, and although the groom had been removed from 
 her favour, she had substituted a worthy successor in the 
 person of a drummer. The grand duke was accurately 
 informed of all her proceedings, and having gained on his 
 side the father La Chain, he contrived to withdraw the 
 protection of the king from his wife. Her favorites were 
 banished, and she was no longer invited to court. But, 
 
at; this period, she had ample employment in fomenting 
 discord in the convent. The first abbess, Madame Frances 
 de Guise, Princess of Lorrain, had been able to support 
 some authority, and even in the midst of the irregularities 
 of the grand duchess, to keep a sense of order in the con- 
 vent She died in 1682. Her successor, Madame Lo-» 
 renza di Harcour, was only thirty-three years of age on 
 her appointment, and her conduct was not regulated by 
 that prudence which her situation required, nor was it ir- 
 reproachable. A party was easily, therefore, formed against 
 her in the convent, and when she complained to the king, 
 the grand duchess retaliated, accused her of carrying on 
 a scandalous correspondence with a financier, and loudly 
 demanded permission to retire from a place in which her 
 delicacy as well as her conscience was offended. This 
 was all a stratagem to gain permission to live at the Lux- 
 emburgh, to which she retired. But secure of the king by 
 the means of the Jesuits, Cosmo now suspended the pay- 
 ment of her pension, and she was forced to return to 
 Montmartre, and enter into terms with him for a change 
 of situation. The pretext of the air being detriment;al to 
 her health, was made the ostensible reason in the change 
 of her convent. In this request to leave Montmartre, the 
 
 grand duchess appears much humbled, and in a submis- 
 
 it 
 
sive and altered tone she thus addressed him : " Although 
 many have been the differences which have arisen between 
 us, I have always done you the justice to believe that you 
 entertained no rancour against me, knowing the purity of 
 your conscience." She then describes the state of her 
 health, the scandal she experienced from the behaviour of 
 the abbess, and thus professed the morality of her own : 
 " I remain here with my holy sisters, and what leisure I 
 have, I spend in acts of piety and in attendance upon the 
 sick, having never relinquished my original design of de- 
 voting myself to their service ; not in an attendance upon 
 the hospitals at Paris, because I do not wish to be in a 
 place where I have friends or relations, but a hundred 
 leagues from it, in a place where I am seen and known 
 by no one, where I shall have nothing else to engage me^ 
 but to think of God and the salvation of my soul. There 
 is no danger that I should abandon this resolution ; I am 
 tired of the world with m hich I am too well acquainted. 
 I therefore pray you, not for love of me, but of that God 
 whom we all adore, that you will contribute to the saving 
 of my soul. This favor I expect from your good heart, and 
 from your generosity, that you will not refuse a request so 
 just, and which will give you so much merit in the eyes of 
 God, and will afford me the means of being happy here 
 
61 
 
 and hereafter." All these expressions of submission and of 
 piety tended only to engage Cosmo to accede to her wish 
 to be admitted into the convent of Port Royal ; but, as he 
 was desirous to have her as far as possible from Paris, he 
 proposed to the king to place her at Mendes. But even 
 this concession was conditional. She was not to be al- 
 lowed to pass a night at Paris ; she was always to return 
 to the convent at the close of the day ; consequently she 
 could undertake no journey without the consent of her 
 husband ; and always to have a female attendant as well 
 as a chamberlain approved by him. Upon the breach of 
 any of these articles, such portions of her pension as 
 should not reduce it lower than 20,000 francs was to be 
 suspended. The Jesuit La Chain engaged the king to 
 guarantee this contract, although the grand duchess ex- 
 pressed the greatest repugnance to subscribe to it, and al- 
 ways indulged a hope that the king would not suffer her, 
 as his cousin, to be bound by such humiliating terms. 
 The princes of the blood did indeed take up her cause, 
 and represented to the king the infamy and injustice of 
 such an agreement, but they could not overcome the in- 
 fluence of the Jesuit, and the king himself became the ad- 
 vocate for the grand duke, and engaged the duchess to sign 
 at St. Cloud what she justly termed " the act of her own 
 
62 
 
 condemnation.'* This alteration in the sentiments of the 
 king did not arise only from the influence of La Chain, 
 but from political circumstances which then rendered the 
 grand duke an object of importance to the views of 
 France. I 
 
 * Austria had been enabled to carry on war against 
 France, by immense sums drawn from Tuscany, under an 
 assumed feudatory right. From the period in which the 
 Florentine republic had been destroyed by the assumption 
 of the ducal title in the person of Alexander, the first 
 duke of the Medici family, this claim had been repeat- 
 edly urged by Austria, and successfully resisted by all the 
 wise and powerful of the Tuscan princes ; but Cosmo had 
 yielded to these unjust demands, and the taxes levied on 
 the people for the payment of them were equally oppress 
 sive and ridiculous. The land, its produce, labour itself, 
 four-footed beasts which did not cleave the hoof, and peri- 
 wigs, were the objects of this taxation; and such was the 
 ridicule excited by it, that the grand duke became the sub- 
 ject of universal derision. The French thought this a 
 good opportunity to introduce a force into Italy, and to 
 oppose the power of Austria, which threatened the entire 
 conqviest of that country. Having failed, however, to 
 effect what never had been, and perhaps never may be 
 
63 
 
 fifFected, a league of all the sovereigns, they succeecfed iii 
 making separate treaties, in which each of the princes of 
 the central provinces was included. The grand duke, al- 
 though not engaged by treaty to assist the French, had 
 consented to allow a passage to their troops, by which he 
 became in reality an ally of France, while he hoped to 
 maintain his neutrality. The delay of the French in send- 
 ing an armament to support their treaties, increased the 
 danger of the princes of the centre, and did not relieve the 
 grand duke from the oppressive subsidies paid to Austria; 
 and so great was the distress of the Florentines, that they 
 assembled round the Pitti Palace, with an appearatice of 
 open insurrection. To these public disasters were added 
 those which privately afflicted the family of Cosmo. The 
 young duchess had no expectation of a family, and 
 alarmed at the idea of the extinction of his race, the grand 
 duke meditated a marriage for his youngest son John 
 Gaston. 
 
 March 6, 1694. — At this period, died the Princess 
 Vittoria, his mother, deeply regretted by Cosmo, but not 
 by the people; for to her pride, bigotry, and intolerance, 
 were attributed most of the evils of his reign, and her in- 
 fluence over his mind had ever been uncontrolled. This 
 influence was now transferred to his daughter, whose ad- 
 
64 
 
 vice he followed upon every future occurrence. The dis- 
 position of this princess seemed to unite in itself all the 
 bad qualities of her grandmother and of her father ; and, 
 foreseeing the possibility of becoming herself the reigning 
 duchess of Tuscany, if she procured a wife for her younger 
 brother not likely to have a family, she guided her re- 
 searches by this mean and selfish principle. In the mean 
 time, Cosmo's aim was to find a princess whose fortune 
 might enable his son to maintain an establishment without 
 heavy demands on the exhausted finances of the State. 
 Both these views were united in a princess of Saxony, 
 widow of the Prince Philip of Neuburg, and heiress to 
 the house of Lauenburg. The vanity of Cosmo was flat- 
 tered by this alliance, and his ambition to enrol his 
 youngest son among the princes of the empire, made him 
 blind to the almost certain evils which must arise to his 
 family should this marriage prove fruitless. Such a dis- 
 appointment, the corpulency of the lady, and her love for 
 hunting and violent exercises, rendered more than proba- 
 bable ; yet, so impatient was the grand duke for the com- 
 pletion of this matrimonial treaty, that he took John Gas- 
 ton with him on a pilgrimage to Loretto, to implore the 
 assistance of the Virgin. Asa contrast to this pilgrimage, 
 Ferdinand made one to Venice, to pass the Carnival in 
 
6S 
 
 that city, which excelled all others in the dissolute plea- 
 sures of the great festival. There giving himself to the 
 most unrestrained licentiousness, he contracted disorder's 
 which abridged his life, and destroyed his future hopes of 
 offspring; and returning to Florence, he gave his wife too 
 severe an opportunity of practising that mildness and pa- 
 tience for which she was so greatly eminent. 
 ^^nThe matrimonial alliance of John Gaston was now 
 fixed upon, and he was sent, with an unwilling heart, to 
 terminate it at Munich. The graceful appearance of the 
 young prince, his open and elegant address, and the rea- 
 diness of his wit, soon won the heart of his bride ; but her 
 appearance was far from producing the same effect in him. 
 Without grace or beauty, her manners were coarse and 
 vulgar, and accustomed to pass all her time in the country, 
 she found her chief amusements in riding, in the chase, 
 or the stable. This taste made her a stranger to the 
 manners of a court, and she appeared embarrassed amidst 
 the pomp and festivity with which the elector celebrated 
 her espousals. Under these discouraging circumstances, 
 the marriage of John Gaston was completed, and after a 
 delay of two months at the court of the elector, he set off 
 with his princess to the dilapidated Castle of Reichstad, 
 near Prague, which had been her usual residence. 
 
 K 
 
66 
 
 The public calamities of Tuscany, the inexorable and 
 oppressive government of Cosmo, and the general want 
 of employment among the people, occasioned a great emi- 
 gration from the country. Peace at last, which was ef- 
 fected at Ryswick, afforded some transient relief to the 
 miseries of the unhappy Florentines. The animosities 
 which had existed between Cosmo and his wife began to 
 be mitigated by time, the great soother of evils ; and, i^^, 
 deed, the conduct of the grand duchess had in some de- 
 gree ceased to give hioi such disgraceful causes of un- 
 easiness. He mi^t, indeed, have hoped to pass the re- 
 mainder of his days in greater quiet, but no sooner Avas 
 one source of family discord r^m9jijed> tban another arose 
 to disturb his peace ; and this was rendered the more in- 
 tolerable, by the reflection that his own folly and want of 
 foresight had been the cause of it ^, John Gaston and his 
 wife were now at variance, and the story of their domestic 
 feuds might form an absurd and ridiculous sequel to those 
 of their royal parents. The health of Ferdinand appeared 
 totally ruined, and John Gaston and his wife living asun- 
 der as much as possible, the hopes of preserving the suc- 
 ^eBiimiin the family of Cosmo were almost extinct. The 
 only expedient which remained, was to form a marriage 
 for his brother, the Cardinal yrmcisMa-ria j^and had this 
 
67 
 
 been accomplished without delay, it might have afforded 
 some hope of success ; but the selfish wishes of the elec- 
 tress produced an unfortunate delay. Cosmo had re- 
 course to a solemn act of devotion, in the hopes of obtain- 
 ing this favor from Heaven, and it being the holy year of 
 jubilee at Rome, he set off by sea, and arrived in that 
 city. There he desired to be permitted to handle the re- 
 lics in the shrine of St. Peter ; but as no one under the 
 rank of a canon of that church could be allowed this ec- 
 clesiastical privilege, he was elected to that honor, and in 
 the habit of his new office, he displayed the sacred remains 
 to the eyes of wondering spectators. Such mummery 
 met with deserved contempt in every place but at Rome, 
 and again exposed the grand duke to the ridicule of his 
 subjects. They saw their sovereign, who had been recently 
 occupied in obtaining a royal reception for his ambassa- 
 dors in foreign courts, degrading himself by assuming the 
 habit and office of a canon of St. Peter. 
 
 Soon after this event, John Gaston was obliged to re- 
 turn to Florence, and he separated himself for ever from 
 his wife. The hopes of succession were now rendered 
 almost vain, and rested only on the sacrifice of the Car- 
 dinal Francis Maria at the shrine of Hymen. This prince 
 was forty-eight years of age, extremely corpulent, and de- 
 
68 
 
 cidedly averse to the idea of matrimony. His dissolute 
 life had exhausted his constitution, and he declared openly 
 that he entertained no hope of preserving the famih^ from 
 extinction. Had this marriage been resorted to when first 
 it -appeared tfn'^robable that Jollti Gaston might have 
 issue, the line of the Medici might have been preserved, 
 hut the evil counsels of his daughter, had induced Cosmo 
 to defer it until it was too late. A victim for this sacri- 
 fice was readily found in the person of Eleonora, daughter 
 iof Vincenzio, Duke of Guastalla, a princess endowed with 
 florid health, youth and beauty ; and in 1 709, the cardi- 
 nal dispossessing himself of all his benefices, but retaining 
 considerable pensions, espoused this unfortunate princess 
 in the twenty-third year of her age. 
 
 The beauty and vivacity of this princess revived the 
 hopes of the family, and her reception into it was most flat- 
 tering. But in these hopes, Francis Maria himself could 
 not participate. If he believed that she might not alto- 
 gether reject him, he felt himself too unlikely to excite her 
 affections, and was not wholly insensible to his own per- 
 sonal defects. Her unfortunate dislike to him was 
 heightened by an insuperable dread which she entei**^ 
 tained of contracting disorders which had been the corii*- 
 sequences of his dissipation, and so great was her abhor- 
 
69 
 
 rence of her spouse, thajl; all the p^^ujiisioaspf her confes- 
 sor were unable to induceher to suffer 'any intercourse to 
 take place between them. No longer indulging the idea 
 of preserving the succession in his family, Cosmo began 
 seriously to consider what must become of his States when 
 his race was extinct. The wretched situation to which his 
 temporizing polity and bigoted vanity had reduced his 
 subjects, was become intolerable : in profound peace they 
 yet had to experience all the privations and oppression 
 of a state of war, and were almost in open rebellion. It 
 became necessary, therefore, to devise some measures for 
 endeavouring to pacify them. With this view, he began 
 a negotiation to restore to the Florentines their ancient 
 state of liberty, upon the cessation of his family. The line 
 of succession had been settled by a decree of Charles V., 
 published on the 28th of October, 1530. When the 
 Florentine Republic surrendered to the Imperial army, 
 then auxiliary to Clement VII., it was contracted that the 
 emperor should settle the form of government most suit- 
 able to the falling State ; and it was then decreed that 
 Alexander de Medici should be the duke, and chief of the 
 magistracy of Florence, and that this dignity should de^ 
 scend in the direct male line of his family, excludiilg fe-* 
 males ; and, in case of failure in the direct line, to the 
 
170 
 
 nearest male relative of the Medici family. In conse* 
 quence of this establishment, on the assassination of Duke 
 Alexander, the Senate proceeded to elect Cosmo I., who 
 was acknowledged by a diploma of Charles V., dated 
 September 30, 1537, as the. Uftje^l descendant. With 
 these examples to guide them, the counsellors of Cosmo 
 III. declared, that the Senate had a right, upon the failure 
 of the direct line, to proceed to the election of the nearest 
 in line of succession from John De Bicei, the founder of 
 the race; and in case none such should be found, that the 
 Florentines then re-entered into their ancient rights as a 
 republic. 1 hese principles of justice being established^ 
 it wa^.. next. expedient to consider by what means they 
 might be carried into effect ; and as the re-establishment 
 of the liberties of a State could not be better guaranteed 
 than by another powerful and free State>,posmo applied 
 to Holland, and laid before the grand pensioner Heinsius 
 the whole of his plans, and that liberal and enlightened 
 statesman saw, and applauded with enthusiasm, the jus- 
 tice of the scheme. The negotiator employed in this af- 
 fair was the Marquis Ranuccini, a man of much celebrity, 
 and of one of the first families of Florence. This able 
 agent of his country carried on the negotiation with all 
 the ardour of patriotism, and engaged the Electors of 
 
n 
 
 Hanover and Mayenc'e, ""and the Bishop of Munster, to 
 assist in his plans. Queen Anne of England also con- 
 curred in his sentiments, and with all the liberal policy 
 which then guided her counsels, she would not consent 
 that her forces, which had assisted to exclude Philip from 
 the throne of Spain, should be eftiployed in the subjuga- 
 tion of Italy. Hii^hmc^ 
 
 'Having thus insured a powerful support, the next step 
 was to engage the Austrians to agree to the investiture of 
 Sienna, and the other feudal possessions, in the projected 
 republic, which would, by descent, settle in the heirs of 
 the grand duke. These descendants in the female line^ 
 were the Farnese family, descended from Margaret, 
 daughter of Cosmo II., and the Bourbons of France, de- 
 scended from Mary, daughter of the Grand Duke Francis. 
 It was most probable that these rights would all even- 
 tually settle in the French branch, and it would, therefore, 
 have been most difficult for Florence to maintain itself as 
 a republic without a powerful maritime support, and great 
 difficulty would occur in influencing the ministers of the 
 emperor to accede to the investiture of the fiefs in a 
 republic. All these political views accorded with those 
 of England, who clearly saw that by the establishment of 
 the liberty of Florence, she should gain a s^fe and friendly 
 
7^ 
 
 port for her fleets in the heart of the Mediterranean, and 
 a (central and commodious station for the distribution of; 
 her commerce and her manufactures. In the furtherance 
 of this wise and hberal pohcy, Townsend, the EngHsh am^ 
 basse^doj' at the Hague, entered into a private treaty with 
 Raniiccini ; and the Enghsh ministers of the day ap- 
 plauded with admiration, and fully entered into all the 
 plans of Cosmo, considering it the interest of their coun- 
 try to support them with all their influence. The total 
 conquest of Italy, which then appeared to be the object 
 of the Austrians, required some check to be opposed to it: 
 and as that power still oppressed the Florentines, by draw- 
 ing large contributions from them under an assumed 
 feudal right, it was not probable that she would consent 
 to the investiture of the fiefs ; and it was still less probable: 
 that France would concur in the measure, as Louis XIYi 
 looked towards Tuscany as an establishment for his ne- 
 phew, the Duke de Berry. At this juncture, the Cardinal 
 Francis Maria fell a victim to the dropsy, and so delicate: 
 was the health of both Ferdinand and John Gaston, that 
 it was calculated that a few years must extinguish all the, 
 remaining branches of the Medici family. These circum- 
 stances hastened the settlement of the Florentine affairs, 
 and the Austrian ambassador, the Count Linzendorf, did 
 
73 
 
 hot appear to object to the re-establishment of the repub- 
 lic, but withheld his consent to the investiture of the fiefs ; 
 this, however, might have been accommodated by treaty,: 
 but an event occurred which changed the whole political 
 situation of Europe. The Emperor Joseph I. died of the 
 small-pox, without issue, on the 17th of April, 1711, and 
 the Imperial crown devolved upon Charles III., who 
 abandoned Spain, and left it in the possession of his rival, 
 Philip V. The maritime powers, desirous that Spain and 
 the Indies should not fall into the possession of the Bour- 
 bon family, were greatly disconcerted by this event ; and 
 in the discussion of affairs of so much greater importance, 
 the establishment of the liberty of Florence was forgotten. 
 This event, however, laid the foundation of a peace, which 
 put an end to one of the most bloody and expensive wars 
 which had ever desolated the nations of Europe. Had 
 Cosmo or his minister possessed any vigour of intellect, 
 they would have then instantly published the concerted 
 plan of the restoration of the Florentines to their ancient 
 rights; but this step, which would have excluded all females 
 from the government, met with such effectual opposition 
 from the electress, that the opportunity was lost. Her in- 
 fluence over the feeble mind of her father, prevented him 
 from engaging in any measure which had not her concur- 
 
74 
 
 pence, and she unfortunately put aside an event which 
 might have averted all the future miseries of her family 
 Sind her countiy. The timid and irresolute mind of Cosmo 
 was incapable of executing any plan which required vi- 
 gour, and in consequence of his wavering politics, the 
 Austrians marched a detachment of 9000 men into Tus- 
 cany, under pretence of laying siege to Portercole, but, in 
 yieality, to intimidate Cosmo, who incurred the additional 
 burthen of paying and maintaining them. In this diffi- 
 culty, he had recourse to the interference of the electress, 
 who went to Vienna, in order to negotiate for the removal 
 of the troops, but employed herself in an attempt to secure 
 her own succession to thecrown,and the power of disposing 
 of it at her death. An armistice was agreed upon, which re- 
 lieved the suffering subjects of Cosmo, not only from this, but 
 other intolerable burthens with which the Austrians had 
 oppressed them ; and if the claims of Tuscany both upoii 
 the Austrian and Spanish monarchies for loans previously 
 advanced to those States, had been forcibly urged, all dif- 
 ficulties might have been overcome, and the peace and li* 
 berty of Florence have been established upon the firmest 
 basis. By an article of the peace of Utrecht, the incorpo- 
 ration of the Fiefs of Sienna was established, and the pro- 
 tection of Anne, Queen of England, would have supported 
 
73 
 
 it; but under the influence of his daughter, the grand duke 
 was again induced to neglect this opportunity, and 'dh 
 though he still meditated this great measure, he never 
 had sufficient resolution to pursue such means as might 
 have insured its success. In the midst of these circum- 
 stances, on the 30th of October, 1713, died the Prince 
 Ferdinand. He was universally regretted by the people, 
 whose love he had propitiated by his liberality, and by 
 appearing as their advocate in all the oppressive measures! 
 of his father. If this prince did not possess the talents 
 of his ancestors, he at least inherited their love of splen- 
 dour ; but his pursuits were effeminate, and his love of 
 music led him into the society of profligate characters* 
 where his mind was depraved and his constitution ruined. 
 His father, who from some apprehension of the parties he 
 had raised in the State, had felt himself obliged to pay 
 some deference to the opinions of his son, did not sincerely 
 regret his loss; but the Princess Violante, who had too 
 much cause to rejoice, lamented his death with unfeigned 
 sorrow. The succession thus passed on to the youngest 
 son, John Gaston, then in the forty-second year of his 
 age. Cosmo, upon this event, assembled the Florentine 
 Senate, and laid before them the state of his family. He 
 informed them that he had nominated to succeed him, 
 
 Lf 
 
upon the extinction of the male branches of his line, his 
 daughter the Electress Palatine, and, after her demise, the 
 crown was to pass to the nearest male descendant from the 
 female line ; and in order to frustrate any measure which 
 Austria might take to interrupt this settlement, it was not 
 to be made known, and an oath of secrecy was to be en- 
 tered into by each senator not to divulge it. This arrange- 
 ment was evidently an usurpation of a right which did not 
 belong to the sovereign of Tuscany, and a direct infringe- 
 ment of the decree of Charles V., which vested that right 
 in the Florentine senate alone; and, in fact, it was of no 
 avail either in the succession of the electress, or any other 
 descendant in the female line. The succession of Tus- 
 cany was indeed an object of general political importance. 
 Austria attempted to claim it as a fief lapsed to the em- 
 pire, and employed all her industry to procure documents 
 which might establish her claim. She summoned Leib- 
 nitz to Vienna to arrange and publish these documents, 
 which became the subjects of controversy in all the Ger- 
 man Universities. But no sophistry could establish her 
 claim, and public opinion still justified the Tuscan go- 
 vernment and the Florentine senate in retaining their 
 ancient rights. The death of Louis XIV. had changed 
 the political state of Europe ; his grandson was left a 
 
77 
 
 minor, and the Regent Duke of Orleans, instead of pro- 
 ducing any effectual interference in the affairs of Italy, 
 had entered into a secret alliance with England and Hol- 
 land, to secure to himself the succession to the French 
 crown, in the event of the death of the young Louis XV. 
 Austria, therefore, had ample leisure to carry on her de- 
 signs respecting the Tuscan succession. A prince, favour- 
 able to her interests, was to be selected, and the ministers 
 of Cosmo proposed the Duke of Modena. This prince, 
 whose territories were bounded by those of Tuscany, was 
 as nearly allied as any other to the Medici name. He 
 was descended from Vittoria, daughter of Cosmo I. and of 
 Cammilla Martelli, and was approved of by the Austrian 
 court. This plan, however, was suspended, by a project 
 to indemnify Spain for the cession of Sicily to the Em- 
 peror, and of Sardinia to the Duke of Savoy, by settling 
 the eventual succession of Tuscany on the Infant Don 
 Carlos. This project was approved by France and En- 
 gland, and communicated to the Emperor; but, for some 
 time, it was kept secret from Cosmo, whose interest in it 
 was most apparent. At length, the plan so humiliating 
 to the grand duke was disclosed to him, and he reflected 
 ^ith bitter regret on the folly which had neglected to de- 
 clare the liberty of Florence at the period of the peace 
 
78 
 
 Off Utrecht. Austria now joining herself to England, 
 France and Holland, had formed the Quadruple Alliance, 
 which gave laws to all Europe; and Cosmo was obliged 
 to endure another bitter draught mingled by his own inr 
 dolence and want of policy. The electress, now become 
 a widow, took up her abode at Florence, and assumed a 
 more direct ascendancy over the weak mind of her father. 
 Perceiving the rigorous and unpopular conduct of his 
 government, she endeavoured to render it less odious by 
 keeping a splendid court, and conducting herself with 
 much liberality ; and, as her brother lived in the country, 
 she had no rival in her plans, and succeeded, in some de- 
 gree, in conciliating the public regard, and exciting a wish 
 that the act of the senate might be finally established, and 
 her own eventual succession be secured. But the Medici 
 family was now rapidly descending into oblivion. The 
 death of the grand duchess seemed but as a prognostic of 
 that of her husband. This princess ended her extraor- 
 dinary life on the 17th of September, 1721. She had 
 long been rendered decrepit by the palsy, and Cosmo 
 having desisted from all interference in her conduct, she 
 had, for some time previous to her death, resided, unmo- 
 lested, at Paris. The Regent Duke of Orleans had ap- 
 pointed her a pension, and the last days of her hfe were 
 
8fSI 
 
 passed in more than usual tranquillity : but she proved, 
 by her will, the sincerity of her hatred against the Medici 
 family; for she disinherited ,U^r own ^cjijj^f e% a^d left her 
 property to a distant relative* although in her treaty of 
 separation, she had agreed that all she might die possessed 
 of should descend to her children. This unjust disposi-> 
 tion of her property occasioned a long law suit in the 
 courts of Paris, and thus she bequeathed to her family an. 
 inheritance of that trouble which her whole life had oc- 
 casioned. This circumstance was of importance both to 
 the public and private concerns of the Medici family. 
 The life of Cosmo was drawing near to its close, an event 
 which his subjects looked forward to with impatient 
 anxiety. The succession of his crown was settled on the 
 Infant of Spain, by the treaty of London ; and although, 
 at the congress? of Cambray, Cosmo protested warmly 
 against this unjust disposal of an inheritance, to which two 
 legitimate successors were yet in existence, yet it seemed 
 to have been irrevocably fixed by the Quadruple Alliance. 
 This settlement had for its basis an acknowledgment of 
 the feudal submission of Florence to the empire ; and the. 
 injustice of this claim, gave to the whole transaction, a 
 character of such oppression, that it created universal dis- 
 
 " The Princess D'Epine/. Kf 
 
80 
 
 gust. The Austrian ministry gave their formal assent to 
 this arrangement, but upon terms so difficult to be acted 
 iipon by Don Carlos, that nothing could be considered as 
 finally settled during the life of Cosmo. The grand duke, 
 now in his eighty-first year, had prolonged his life, by a 
 Pythagorean regimen, to a more extended period than 
 either his earlier indulgences, or his original constitution, 
 could have afforded him the hope of attaining. An ery- 
 sipelas and a slow fever, announced his approaching disso- 
 lution. He sent for his son John Gaston, and delivered to 
 him the keys of the fortresses, and the cares of govern- 
 ment, and on the 31st of October, 1723, after an illness 
 of fifty-one days, he terminated a reign the most unjust 
 and disastrous that Tuscany had ever known. 
 
 The reign of Cosmo III., must be considered as the 
 period in which the happiness of Tuscany, and the great- 
 ness of the Medici name, were hastening to their decline. 
 Many circumstances had, indeed, previously occurred to 
 diminish her manufactures, and to divert her commerce 
 into other channels, yet, as long as force was exerted to 
 obtain her aggrandizement, she was formidable and re- 
 spected ; but when she adopted the feeble plan of mere 
 self-preservation, she was soon reduced, in an unarmed 
 neutrality, to experience the common fate of the Italian 
 
m 
 
 States, and to receive laws from the most powerful. At 
 his accession, Cosmo found a treasury amply supplied, a 
 militia well organized, and capable of any exertion for the 
 defence or increase of his territories ; but his vanity soon 
 wasted the one, his timid and suspicious policy disbanded 
 the other. He found the public opinion free and enlight- 
 ened, but his bigotry and intolerance ruined the taste and 
 corrupted the morals of the capital ; his bad administra- 
 tion soon exhausted the revenues and degraded the cha- 
 racter of his country. One of his principles of govern- 
 ment, was to create an immense number of small offices, 
 and these were distributed as dowers to girls recommended 
 by his priests and hypocritical courtiers. By this narrow 
 policy, he established in the capital, a population depend- 
 ing solely upon the crown for its support; and the Floren- 
 tines were contented with a mean subsistence, preferring a 
 base mediocrity and indolence, to a life elevated by ac- 
 tivity, and rendered independent by useful exertion. The 
 capital was chiefly inhabited by families of this descrip- 
 tion; and the country, by those who were impoverished by 
 taxes and expensive ceremonies, which the priests obliged 
 them to perform, in order to procure the royal favour. A 
 reign of fifty-three years, conducted upon such principles, 
 bad given rise to a general hypocrisy and dissimulation, 
 
82 
 
 and the very character and sentiments of the nation were 
 debased and destroyed. The glorious reign of Ferdi- 
 nand II. was no longer remembered, and Cosmo III., too 
 justly considered as the author of these evils, was followed 
 to the grave by the execration of his subjects. Had a 
 prince of vigorous intellect and laudable ambition, suc- 
 ceeded to the throne of Tuscany, a people possessed of 
 much native intellect and activity, might still have re- 
 covered her commerce, and re-established her superiority 
 in the fine arts ; but John Gaston was fifty-three years of 
 age when he received the crown. He had no great design 
 in the conduct of his government, no princely love of 
 power, no hope of issue to succeed him, no energy to at- 
 tempt the remedy of those evils which the calamitous reign 
 of his father had brought upon his country. The succes- 
 sion rested on a prince, the probable heir to a great mo- 
 narchy, who would either reduce Tuscany to a subordinate 
 province, or a mere appendage to a kingdom separated 
 from her by political interest, climate, and language. John 
 Gaston, however, began his reign with some acts of vigour. 
 He drove away from the court all hypocritical priests, 
 and an host of impostors, Jews, Turks, and converted He- 
 retics, which had long fed upon it ; all of whom enjoyed 
 large pensions as the reward of their apostacy, and were 
 
83 
 
 called, Pensioners of the Creed, He discouraged all in- 
 formers, and restraining the oppressive conduct of the mi- 
 nisters, he introduced a system of moderation into his 
 government, which gained him the love of his people. Fol- 
 lowing the example of Ferdinand II., he mixed familiarly 
 with his subjects and engaged in their amusements ; and 
 by encouraging the young nobility in pursuits of pleasure, 
 he soon revived that love of gaiety so natural to the Flo- 
 rentines. The war of the succession which inundated 
 Italy with foreigners, had insensibly introduced foreign 
 manners into the country. The national dress was al- 
 tered ; the custom of confining the women to their apart- 
 ments was abolished, and a more unreserved intercourse 
 between the sexes was permitted. The old maxims of 
 gravity and modesty were defined to be jealousy and rus- 
 ticity, and were considered as marks of a vulgar educa- 
 tion. Such a change of manners, attended certainly with 
 some danger to the virtue of society, was inveighed against 
 by the priests as the deepest corruption, and as liable to 
 attract the wrath of Heaven against the nation ; but the 
 former severity and brutality of their acts of penance pub- 
 licly performed, had a tendency to introduce among the 
 people of Florence a more dreadful corruption. The la- 
 cerations of the flagellants had rendered them familiar with 
 
 H C 
 
84 
 
 scenes of blood and cruelty, and gave rise to the most 
 atrocious crimes which were concealed by hypocrisy and 
 dissimulation. These had driven from Florence the most 
 virtuous and noble of her citizens, who now returned with 
 joy to partake of the regulated pleasures and renewed so- 
 ciety of thejr delightful country. John Gaston continued 
 to employ the ministers of his father, and to follow his 
 system of policy. He renewed the protest against the ar- 
 ticle of the treaty of London, relative to the succession of 
 Tuscany, and declared his resolution not to accede to it. 
 In fact, the rich possessions of the Medici family, which 
 could not, in justice, be transferred with those of the 
 crown, gave him the power of treating on the subject with 
 great influence ; and no government, probably, but least 
 of all that of Spain, could afford to purchase these posses- 
 sions, and annex them to the succession; so that his re- 
 monstrances commanded great attention. Hie decidedly 
 refused to admit the Infant into his territories, or to allow 
 him the title of Grand Prince j and still affirming the evi- 
 dent injustice of the fifth article of the treaty founded on 
 the feudal submission of Tuscany, he treated with con- 
 tempt the threats of Austria and of Spain, and his resplij- 
 tion, which they termed his obstinacy, was only to be sub- 
 dued by force. Apparently indifferent to these negotia- 
 
85 
 
 tions, but inwardly, much affected by them, he attempted 
 to divert liis thoughts from a subject so nearly connected 
 with the uncertainty of his own life. Surrounded by widows 
 of his family, and being himself the last male descendant 
 of his line, he selected for his favourite amongst them the 
 Princess Violante, a woman of the most unfeigned piety, 
 the mildest virtue, and the most lively disposition. Scarcely 
 had the mourning ceased for Cosmo, when the court as- 
 sumed the most cheerful and animated appearance ; the 
 society of the Princess Violante consisted of all the young 
 and beautiful ladies of Florence, and John Gaston fre- 
 quented her parties, without reserve, and conducted him- 
 self with becoming familiarity. His aversion to all pu- 
 nishments by death, and his prohibition of all cruel exhi- 
 bitions, tended to restore the Florentines to their natural 
 softness of character; while the diminution of the taxes had 
 revived the agriculture, and the entertainments of the 
 court had encouraged the luxury of the city. The taste 
 for music and poetry again called forth the national ex- 
 ercises of these sciences, and the fondness of the Princess 
 Violante for extemporaneous poetry, revived those produc- 
 tions, so much esteemed and so common to the Tuscans. 
 This lively talent was possessed in peculiar excellence by 
 the people of Sienna, and the Poet Perfetti of that city, was 
 
86 
 
 one of the most favoured at the court of the princess. He 
 accompanied her to Rome, and on the 13th of May, 
 1724, he received the crown of laurel, which, since the 
 days of Petrarca, every poet of Italy had desired, but none 
 had obtained. By these acts, which recalled the nation 
 to its genuine character, John Gaston, who had once been 
 neglected and forgotten, became the delight of his people, 
 his errors were buried in oblivion, and the extinction of 
 his family began to be considered by the Florentines as 
 a national misfortune. Mortifying as were the circum- 
 stances in which the grand duke was placed by the treaty 
 of London, he still hoped to change their destiny, and 
 carried on long and frequent negotiations respecting them ; 
 but, at length, being abandoned by Austria, he was 
 obliged to receive a Spanish garrison into the port of 
 Leghorn. The uneasiness of mind occasioned by these 
 events, drove him to seek relief in society unworthy of his 
 taste and knowledge, and he unhappily sought for plea- 
 sures degrading to his station and character. The chief 
 minister of these pleasures, was Gulielmo Dami, the son 
 of a peasant, who had occupied the lowest situations in 
 his family, and had accompanied him to Prague. Being 
 confined to his chamber by lameness, he had accustomed 
 himself to see no one but this favourite, and a few of his 
 
87 
 
 most confidential ministers. At this period, his peace 
 was evidently disturbed by the death of the amiable 
 Princess Violante. This excellent woman had employed 
 all her influence in protecting the unfortunate, and lead- 
 ing the grand duke into measures of lenity and tolerance 
 towards his subjects. She was an encourager and lover 
 of learning, and obtained that general respect and esteem, 
 which arises from the protection of men of science, which 
 she seemed to inherit from her illustrious family, and 
 which unhappily perished with her. 
 
 In 1731, the Infant Don Carlos arrived in Florence, 
 and was received by John Gaston and his court as the 
 immediate successor to the crown. He was then but 
 sixteen years of age, his person and manners were pecu- 
 liarly captivating ; and the Tuscans, considering him as 
 destined to rescue them from the dominion of Austria, 
 regarded the young prince with affection, and paid him 
 the allegiance of the heart. The reception of the Infant, 
 and the title of grand prince, which was now conferred 
 upon him, alarmed the jealousy of the Austrian court, and 
 much of tedious and vexatious negotiation was carrying 
 on, when the death of Augustus King of Poland and 
 Elector of Saxony, rekindled in Europe the flames of 
 war. Italy was invaded by an army of French and Sar- 
 
88 
 
 dinians, and Tuscany was with difficulty preserved from 
 being the theatre of war ; while Don Carlos collecting a 
 very great force, wrested the kingdom of Naples from 
 the Austrians. This event was regarded with much sor- 
 row by the Tuscans. Thej^ had looked forward with 
 confidence to the government of Don Carlos, and now 
 feared, that their State might be placed under a viceroy, 
 and that, too, from the Neapolitan nation, against whom 
 they entertained a particular prejudice. The Austrians, 
 attacked on all points, and unprepared, were incapable 
 of defence, and their defeat at Parma put an end to their 
 power in Italy. A plan for consolidating all the States 
 into one kingdom, was now arranged at Madrid ; but this 
 measure, so ardently and so repeatedly desired by the 
 Italians, was frustrated by the interference of the mari- 
 time powers, whose interests would not allow the Bour- 
 bon family thus to possess the control of the Mediterra- 
 nean Sea. France, by the success of her arms, and her 
 ascendancy in the alliance, was become the arbiter of 
 Europe; and Fleury, ambitious to immortalize his mi- 
 nistry, would not listen to terms of peace without some 
 important cession of territory to his country. With this 
 view, an old project of Louis XIV. was revived, of ex- 
 changing the Dukedoms of Bar and Lorrain for Tuscany, 
 
89 
 
 and thus uniting it to the kingdom of France. It was, 
 therefore, proposed to give to Stanislaus the possession of 
 the Tuscan dukedom for his life, and that, at his death, it 
 should become an integral part of France; and by this 
 arrangement, the crown of Poland remained undisputed 
 to Augustus. Austria, desirous of peace upon any terms, 
 could not make any effectual resistance to a project which 
 weakened her power, and she consented to sign a private 
 treaty with France at Vienna, on the 3rd of October, 
 1735. By this convention, the kingdom of Naples and 
 Sicily was confirmed to Don Carlos, who renounced his 
 right to Tuscany, in favour of Francis Duke of Lorrain, 
 as an equivalent for that duchy which he had ceded to 
 France. To these hard and unjust terms, John Gaston, 
 and the Tuscan nation were obliged to submit, and to 
 accept of Austrian garrisons to secure the right of succes- 
 sion, as they had before accepted those of Spain. Thus 
 the future government of Tuscany was transferred from 
 the house of Medici to that of Lorrain ; and on the 12th 
 of February, 1736, a marriage was concluded between 
 the Duke Francis and Maria Theresa, daughter of the 
 Emperor Charles VI., and successor to the imperial 
 throne. 
 
 John Gaston did not long survive this event ; he was 
 
 N 
 
90 
 
 severely attacked by the gout and stone, and a martyr to 
 ill-health, which had destroyed the energies both of his 
 mind and body: he expired on the 9th of July, 1737. 
 Upon his death, possession of the State was taken in the 
 name of the Duke of Lorrain, by the Prince of Craon. 
 The only remaining branch of the Medici family, the 
 Electress Palatine, was treated with respect, and received 
 an offer of the regency of the country. Her selfish views, 
 which had occasioned the extinction of her family, were 
 thus defeated ; for although she retained some nominal 
 authority in the government, she was, in fact, but a cipher. 
 She continued to reside at Florence, and survived her bro- 
 ther until the year 1743, when, on the 18th of February, 
 she closed her existence, and with it, that of the illustrious 
 line from which she sprung. Thus became extinct a fa- 
 mily to which Europe was indebted for the revival of 
 learning, and the restoration of the fine arts. The wealth 
 of each successive chief of this family acquired by com- 
 merce, rendered it, at length, too powerful to remain in 
 a private station ; and, as in a military republic, the most 
 enterprizing soldier becomes the ruler, so in one purely 
 mercantile, the richest citizen obtains the predominance ; 
 the Medici may be said to have been led by inevitable cir- 
 cumstances to assume the government of Florence. Di- 
 
91 
 
 vided by faction, and with a government at no time suf- 
 ficiently powerful to enforce the law, Florence, like every 
 other petty state of Italy, was a prey to perpetual fluctua- 
 tion and proscription ; but, as faction is the mother of 
 crime, so is she often the nurse of virtue, and never did 
 the Florentines enjoy a higher degree of political consi- 
 deration than during a period of the greatest internal dis- 
 cord. This prosperity, however, was not to be preserved 
 under the government of those, who, from their citizens, 
 had become their rulers. Splendid in the possession of 
 enormous wealth, magnificent and liberal in the patronage 
 of learnins: and the fine arts, the Medici became the 
 boast of their own country, and the admiration of Europe; 
 but, elevated beyond its natural level, their greatness 
 overreached its bounds. The attainment of the ducal 
 crown, perverted their generous love of science, and their 
 virtues were overwhelmed in the dazzling splendour of 
 royalty. The members of that illustrious house might 
 have remained great and good as citizens, but as princes, 
 they became haughty, vitious, and despotic. Having 
 laid aside that salutary check on human greatness, a re- 
 spect for public opinion, they no longer sought the love 
 of their subjects, by liberal courtesy, but conceived the 
 false idea that princely authority might enforce, what the 
 
 KS 
 
92 
 
 kindness and virtue of the citizen endeavoured to win. 
 Power, depraved their morals, and corrupted their hearts. 
 They continued to aid the progress of literature, and to 
 encourage the most exalted works of painting and sculp- 
 ture, by their judicious and liberal patronage ; but, in 
 their private lives, they exhibited the most disgusting ex- 
 amples of depravity and cruelty. The domestic feuds of 
 the different families of Florence were, indeed, swallowed 
 up in uncontrolled despotism, and with them, all that 
 boldness and energy, which although it had divided, yet 
 had stimulated the State to great efforts. These efforts 
 promoted the public good, and excited an useful emula- 
 tion for the attainment of that wealth, which is the only 
 source of independence and honour, under a government 
 where all distinctions are unknown, but such as are be- 
 stowed by the officers of state. The cultivation of the 
 fine arts, and the improvement of national taste, have, un- 
 doubtedly, a tendency to soften the manners of a people; 
 but a danger springs from this refinement, not less in- 
 jurious to national greatness, than popular turbulence and 
 ferocity. This is the danger of rendering effeminate the 
 public mind, and subduing those feelings of patriotic 
 spirit which are the safeguards against arbitrary power, 
 and the supporters of the most essential rights of society. 
 
93 
 
 This truth was not unknown to the Medici. To the latest 
 period of their power, they entertained some apprehen- 
 sions of this spirit among the Florentines, in whose minds 
 the corruptions of tyranny, had not yet destroyed the re- 
 collection of liberty. But it sunk at last, together with 
 the power which extinguished it, into unresisting apathy, 
 and into a barbarism more formidable than that from 
 which the fostering hand of the Medici had raised it. 
 ! It may excite no wonder that learning and the arts 
 sunk also under the weight of that tyranny which had sub- 
 dued the popular spirit ; for science has generally been 
 found to share the grave of freedom. 
 
 The people of Florence, who, in their limited territory, 
 have produced more admirable works of art than any 
 other modern nation, were, at length, deprived of that 
 free spirit which gave them birth ; and science began to 
 languish in the soil of despotism. The works of Michael 
 Angelo, of Andrea del Sarto, of the Frate, of Brunelleschi, 
 and of Ghiberti, whose genius surpassed them all, were 
 the offspring of her days of freedom. A comparison of 
 these, with the works of Vasari, Carlo Dolci, Franceschini, 
 and of the Tacche, will enable posterity to form a just 
 estimate of what the patronage of the Medici could pro- 
 duce, whilst they remained citizens of Florence, and 
 
94 
 
 what were its effects after they had assumed the sovereign 
 
 power. 
 
 The genius of Florence has long slumbered ; but, though 
 dormant, it is not extinguished, and Italy may still in- 
 dulge a distant hope, that " her Athens" may again arise 
 into its once-famed splendour of learning and science. 
 
 wKStKT 
 
ret 
 
 T RAVE LS, 
 
 (^c. Sfc. 
 
 His Highness having been received on board the ship 
 Portland, with the most marked demonstrations of re- 
 spect, set sail for England on the 19th of March, with 
 the wind at s. s.w. On the 20th, they made thirteen 
 leagues to the N.w., and thirty-five to the north ; so that 
 sometimes, in each watch, which consists of four hours, 
 their progress was fourteen or fifteen leagues. On the 21st, 
 they ran twenty-four leagues to the n.e., and eighteen to 
 the N.N.E. ; the winds varying to s.s.w., s.w., w.n.w. and 
 N.w. On the morning of the 22nd, they sailed thirty-two 
 leagues to the n.e., and after mid-day, let down the plum- 
 met, and found the depth to be eighty cubits (braccia), 
 with a bottom of whitish sand and small cockle shells; and, 
 when they sounded again in the evening, the depth was se- 
 
96 
 
 venty braccia, with a bottom of reddish sand streaked with 
 white, which was taken by the sailors for the soil of 
 France. Before mid-day of the 23rd, they made fifteen 
 leagues to the n.e., and on sounding, drew up white 
 sand, which made the greater part of the sailors sus- 
 pect that they were to the west of the Sorlings (Scilly 
 Islands) ; but the pilot was of a different opinion, think- 
 ing they could not be so far advanced. It is true that they 
 had inclined so much to the west, that Owzy bank was not 
 in sight, which is northward of the Sorlings, and which 
 piust have been so near that they could not have failed 
 to discover it. As they were not in sight of it, therefore, 
 they sounded, and finding fifty-five, fifty, and forty braccia 
 of water, which depth corresponded exactly with that of 
 the British Channel, they believed that they had got thus 
 far on their voyage ; which was confirmed, by observing 
 that the mud drawn out was very thick, and inclining to 
 a greyish colour, which is precisely the case with that of 
 the British Channel. 
 
 u In the night they made no way, there being no wind, 
 though the water was greatly agitated. They resumed 
 their course the next morning at day-break, following 
 the direction of the clouds, sometimes northward, some- 
 times eastward, till, at last, they discovered a merchant 
 
97 
 
 ship. As she passed by without safiitlng the frigate, which 
 bore the admiral's flag on the mainmast, they suspected 
 her to be a Corsair. The captain, therefore, ordered a 
 gun to be fired, without shot, in order to bring her on 
 board ; but observing that she attempted to take advan- 
 tage of the wind and get away, he brought them to by a 
 second discharge of cannon loaded with shot, and she im- 
 mediately hoisted the English colours, and, shortening 
 sail, came on board, and they learned from the captain 
 that they were betwixt England and Ireland, and that 
 they had mistaken the British Channel for that of St. 
 George. 
 
 This mistake was a matter of great mortification to the 
 captain, especially as they had had no bad weather nor 
 contrary winds to complain of; but the fault was attri- 
 butable to the uncertainty of the soundings, to the ill-re- 
 gulated time-piece, to the inexperience of the steersman in 
 the night, and to the superabundant zeal of the captain, 
 who was frequently induced to interfere in what was, in 
 fact, the business of the pilot. His highness, therefore, 
 without shewing any displeasure at the accident, desired 
 the captain, who had already turned the ship's head to- 
 wards Plymouth, to be sent for, and gave him encourage- 
 ment; and, as the wind was s.s.e., he resolved to take 
 
98 
 
 advantage of it, in order to touch at Ireland. Accord- 
 ingly, on the 24th, at twenty-two o'clock, according to 
 the Italian calculation, they came to an anchor. 
 
 The fortress, an ancient castle, built on the highest 
 point of a hill, at the mouth of the harbour, having dis- 
 covered the frigate at a distance, had hoisted the war-flag, 
 and was saluted with eleven guns, which it answered with 
 seven. Monsieur Piatt went on shore, to give the neces- 
 sary orders for the disembarkation; and, on his return, 
 there came on board along with him a servant of Mr. 
 Southwell, father of Sir — Southwell, envoy of the King 
 of England at Lisbon, who resided here, being the pro- 
 prietor of all the adjacent country, making, in his mas- 
 ter's name, an oflfer of his house, and whatever was neces- 
 sary to his highness's convenience ; for which he was 
 graciously thanked. Early in the morning of the 25tb, 
 the courier was dispatched on shore to make prepara- 
 tions, and soon after, with the help of the tide, his high- 
 ness also landed, and, in passing the fortress, was saluted 
 with seven rounds. As soon as he reached the shore, he 
 set out for the place destined for him, and, after hearing 
 mass, went or foot to see the town, and after a short 
 walk, returned home, where he entertained the captain at 
 dinner, and Antonio de Sousa, whom his highness had 
 
99 
 
 accommodated with a passage to England in the frigate. 
 
 After dinner, the grandchildren of the said Sir 
 
 Southwell, came to make their obeisance to his highness, 
 who, shortly afterwards, went on foot to visit his mother, 
 and my Lady Percival, his sister, a widow; and taking 
 another walk, he returned home. In the evening, there 
 arrived from Cork, the capital of the county of the same 
 name, (which, for the fertility of its soil, the beauty of its 
 cities, the number of its fortresses, and the convenience of 
 its sea-ports, is considered the largest and most agreeable 
 of all the Irish counties) Mr. Southwell, who then hap- 
 pened to be there, both on account of his situation as one 
 of the members of the provincial council of Upper Mun- 
 ster, which holds its sittings there, and, likewise, to enjoy 
 his dignity of sovereign, which is the same with that of 
 alcalde of justice, and authorizes him to carry a badge of 
 office, like those of Castile and Portugal. He was ac- 
 companied by Colonel St. Leger ; both of them having 
 been informed, by express, of the arrival of his highness, 
 to whom they presented themselves, and offered their ser- 
 vices in the politest manner, and with the most lively ex- 
 pressions of respect, to which his highness answered in 
 suitable terms, through the medium of the interpreter, for 
 they spoke nothing but English ; and the colonel imme- 
 
 O 8 
 
100 
 
 diately placed a company of infantry on guard at his high- 
 ness' lodgings, -which were, however, soon after dismissed 
 by him. 
 
 Kinsale, one of the most considerable walled towns in 
 the county of Cork, in the afore-mentioned province of 
 Upper Munster (called by the Hollanders, Wown) which 
 takes its name from a small peninsula hard by, has a com- 
 modious and secure harbour for ships which cast anchor 
 there (that of Rois, which was formerly the most frequent- 
 ed on that coast, having been rendered useless by the ac- 
 cumulation of sand) for the sea, entering at the point of 
 the Peninsula, and penetrating a long way inland, forms 
 a spacious bay, which contracts and enlarges itself accord- 
 ing to the position of the hills, which line both sides. This 
 bay is protected by three fortresses ; the one, an ancient 
 castle, situated on the summit of a hill, commands the 
 mouth of the harbour ; the second, is opposite to it, on 
 the other bank, and surrounded with an ancient wall ; 
 somewhat more inland is the third, of a simple circular 
 figure, which also commands the sea, is garrisoned like the 
 other two, and fortified, so as to secure the entrance of the 
 port, which is closed every night by beams fastened with 
 strong chains. At the mouth of the river Bandon, in a plain, 
 which the river forms by receding a little from the hills 
 
101 
 
 tliat surround the valley through which it flows, is situat- 
 ed the town of Kinsale. In the lowest part, is the principal 
 street, which, gently ascending the side of a hill, spreads 
 over it with its buildings ; of these, the greatest is the 
 church, which, though built by Catholics, is now profaned 
 by the rites of the Anglican sect. The houses are of a 
 mean construction and appearance, with very little deco- 
 ration, and, for the most part, low ; some are built of stone, 
 and covered with slate, with cottage roofs ; others of mud 
 and lime, forming a kind of cement, which is, therefore, 
 soon destroyed by the humidity of the climate : they use 
 glass windows, without any other protection from the air, 
 as is the custom also of High and Low Germany. The 
 greater part of the inhabitants are English, who were re- 
 stored by the royal clemency to the possessions of which 
 they had been deprived by the preceding kings, and par- 
 ticularly by Cromwell ; and came to inhabit this island, 
 and having established several colonies, gave their minds 
 to commerce. The Catholics of Kinsale, who are also 
 scattered over the surrounding territory, are estimated at 
 about two hundred ; many of them live miserably in the 
 country, in miid cabins, badly thatched with straw, sleep- 
 ing on the ground on short mats, and subsisting chiefly 
 on fish and cockles, which are much smaller than the 
 
102 
 
 oyster, and are found in these seas, adhering to the rocks ; 
 they have seldom an opportunity of eating bread. Since 
 the insurrection of this kingdom, they have been con- 
 sidered almost as the people of a conquered country, and 
 are treated as slaves, being obliged to cultivate the ground, 
 and to account to the owner even for their scanty profits. 
 They pay to Southwell, the proprietor of this desert, a 
 guinea and a half a year for the rent of a cabin and a few 
 square yards of land ; and for the farms which they rent, 
 they give three-fourths of the produce, reserving to them- 
 selves only one-fourth. A Catholic priest attends them, 
 who is subordinate to the apostolical internuncio of Flan- 
 ders, and who lives there clandestinely, celebrating mass 
 in a house where they assemble secretly, to avoid those mo- 
 lestations to which they would unquestionably be subject, 
 if they were discovered ; and each person contributes six 
 shillings towards his maintenance. 
 
 The province of Momonia, or Munster, holds the first 
 place among the five into which the kingdom of Ireland is 
 divided, namely Leinster, Connaught, Ulster and Meath, 
 (so the English call them) from the fertility of its soil, the 
 temperature of its climate, and the number of its cities, 
 fortresses, and well-frequented sea-ports. It abounds more 
 than any of the other provinces, in wheat (which cannot 
 
103 
 
 be exported without a licence), and barley, of which there 
 are three sorts ; one of them is used for making beer, 
 which will keep from year to year ; and this is not the 
 case with the other two, which are of a less durable nature. 
 The land which produces it is sown one year, and then 
 left two years fallow. It contains also great plenty of 
 sheep and oxen, which are superior in size to the animals 
 of their respective kinds found elsewhere, nor are they sub- 
 ject to the contagious disorders peculiar to their species ; 
 the same holds good of their horses, which are carried to 
 England, where they are esteemed for their strength and 
 swiftness ; neither are wild animals wanting, such as stags, 
 deer, rabbits, hares, foxes, and particularly wolves, for the 
 hunting of which, the dogs called mastiffs are in great re- 
 quest The quantity of birds is considerable; particularly 
 pheasants, partridges, quails, eagles (and hawks with which 
 they hunt wild geese) swans, cranes, cocks of the wood, 
 and most other sorts of birds, except the magpie and the 
 nightingale ; which two species are not to be found in this 
 island. The sea abounds with fish, which they dry for 
 sale, on the tops of their cottages or cabins, and send them 
 to other parts; every thing is low priced, except wine, which 
 is imported from France. Such is the scarcity of money, 
 that Spanish coin forms the chief part of the currency. ; 
 
104 
 
 The district of Cork, one of the counties of Munster, 
 boasts many noble families ; but the principal are those 
 of Clarty, formerly lords of the said county, from whom 
 came the Earls of Muskerry; the Lords of Carribray de 
 Barry, of whom are the Earls of Barrymore ; de Rock, 
 (or della Rupe,) of which family is Viscount Formoy.j, 
 and de Cardoni and Geraldini, of which is Marshal Imoff 
 killy, the Lords of Prendergast, and others. .(.■ 
 
 For the government of these provinces, and of the whole 
 kingdom, ever since Henry II., King of England, made 
 himi^lC^m^stejr pf,i|,>y depriving the ^i^}}\c^§ ?M^9^PJ3^^<i 
 these coutities respectively of their dominions, a viceroy is 
 appointed, who succeeded the ancient judges, that the 
 kings o| g|?gland ip^t|^^s^|^^u J:h^^^^Xonquered 
 the country. He has full authority to convoke the Part^ 
 liament, and to depute governors to administer justice 
 in the provinces ; these are called ^tl^^jhe province of 
 Munster, presidents, and in that of Connaught, commis^jr^ 
 saries. They are assisted by counsellors and lawyers, 
 acting under the directions of the viceroy, who, in the ad- 
 ministration of Ireland, follows the same laws by which 
 England is governed. This kingdom has likewise the 
 same distinction of orders as England^^ ^yi^.^p£}i;ls, barons, 
 knights, advocates and military men, who, together, com- 
 
105 
 
 pose the privy council. The viceroy resides in Dublin, 
 the capital of Ireland, called Bal-aha-elic, and the metro- 
 politan city, not only of the province of Leinster, but of 
 the whole island. It formerly enjoyed the dignity of an 
 archbishopric, disputing with that of Armagh the pri- 
 macy of Ireland. My Lord John Roberts, a Presbyterian 
 by religion, had recently been appointed to the vice-roy- 
 alty by the king, in the place of James Duke of Ormond, 
 who, having completed the third year of his administra- 
 tion, had returned to court. From the new viceroy, who 
 is very hostile to their religion, the Catholics have expe- 
 rienced additional severity and rigour. 
 
 The profits which the viceroy draws from this govern- 
 ment, are estimated at upwards of forty thousand pounds 
 sterling annually; so that it is considered the most valuable 
 appointment in the gift of the kings of Europe. The re- 
 venue which Ireland contributes to the royal treasury is 
 estimated at three hundred thousand pounds sterling a 
 year, arising from what are called the tributes of the 
 crmvn, which every county in the kingdom pays to the 
 exchequer from the revenues of the property of the rebels; 
 from the annual loans, the right of which the same exche- 
 quer reserves to itself ; from enfeoffments made of pro- 
 perty confiscated in consequence of the pretended rebel- 
 
 y 
 
106 
 
 lion; and, lastly, from duties connected with commerce: 
 which are exacted from the inhabitants, and with more 
 especial rigom* from the natives of the kingdom, towards 
 whom the antipathy of the English is so great, that they 
 not only do not allow them to speak in their native tongue, 
 but oblige them to use the English idiom, forbidding them, 
 under the severest penalties, the use of the liturgy in any 
 other language than English, even in the prayers of their 
 own communion. Hence there is little cordiality among 
 them, both on account of the discrepancy of manners (al- 
 though at present the primitive Irish conform in a great 
 measure, as far as traffic is concerned, to the English 
 modes) and the division which exists in consequence of 
 the English on no account permitting intermarriages ; by 
 means of which, if they were once united by the ties of 
 blood, minds so adverse might perhaps be reconciled to 
 each other. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 26th, his highness was 
 requested by the captain to return on board, the wind 
 being then north. Before his departure, Mr. Southwell 
 and Colonel St. Leger arrived, attended by the principal 
 personages of the town, to wish his highness a good 
 voyage. Southwell invited him to dinner on the follow- 
 -ing day in case the weather should prevent his departure ; 
 
107 
 
 and upon these conditions his highness accepted the in* 
 vitation. On his embarkation he was accompanied to 
 the boat by the same gentlemen, whither he was also at*- 
 tended by the company of soldiers before-mentioned. 
 When he came in sight of the old fortress, he was saluted 
 by a discharge of seven guns. Having gone on board^ 
 Southwell and St. Leger again came to pay their respects 
 to him, and to partake of an abundant refreshment which 
 had been sent by the former. At their departure, they 
 were again saluted with a discharge of guns. Soon after, 
 the wind failing, they abandoned all ideas of sailing, and 
 towards evening his highness landed, with the .gentlemen 
 of his retinue, accompanied by the captain and Piatt ; 
 and taking the road over the hills which lie to the right 
 as you enter the harbour, he made as wide a circuit as he 
 could round the territory, which, like the rest of Ireland, 
 is uneven and hilly, watery and marshy; so that even on the 
 tops of the hills is found land soaked in water, producing, 
 in greater abundance than any other, grass, and wild 
 sorrel : thus the truth of what is said of this island must 
 be admitted, viz. that the waters stagnate on the very 
 highest mountains, and that lakes are found there. In 
 descending the hills on his return to the ship, his highness 
 passed near some cabins which served to shelter poor 
 
 F t 
 
108 
 
 people, the native rustics of Ireland, who have no place 
 to rest upon but the bare earth ; and having caused them 
 to be reconnoitred, for curiosity, he discovered that with- 
 in they lived like wild beasts. His highness returned 
 late on board, and retired at his accustomed hour to 
 
 •rest. -..-fl Iff' h^^n?'- •" "ff-mi fif-^ojl ' 
 
 On the 27th, the wind having got to the north, his 
 highness sent to take leave of Southwell, who shortly after 
 came on board to wish his highness a second time a good 
 voyage. At mid-day they set sail ; and had scarcely 
 got out of the harbour, before another boat came on 
 board, sent by Southwell, with a new and abundant sup- 
 ply of refreshment. Standing out to sea, many towers 
 were seen on the coast of Ireland, which shewed lights 
 every night for the convenience of mariners. Th^,jFe- 
 .mainder of the day and the following night, they pursued 
 their voyage, with the wind still at north ; but changing 
 •to the east on the 28th, they were obliged then to tack 
 about, not only during the night, but till almost mid-day 
 of the 29th; whence seeing at once the impossibility and 
 danger of continuing their course to the eastward of the 
 islands of Sorling, in order to gain the cape of the Land's 
 End, for tlie wind, coming directly from the n.e., was 
 driving the ship upon the great covered rock which 
 
109 
 
 lies four leagues from the islands and from the afore- 
 mentioned cape. The pilot, after consulting with the cap- 
 tain, resolved to sail to the island St. Mary, and to wait 
 there, rather than at sea, for a change of weather, because 
 less inconvenient to his highness. Turning the ship's 
 head towards the west, they anchored in the harbour two 
 hours after mid-day. The ship having hoisted the admi- 
 ral's standard, was saluted by the fortress with seven guns, 
 and was replied to with the same number, which it ac- 
 knowledged again with three. The couriers imme- 
 diately landed to prepare apartments ; soon afterwards his 
 highness disembarked, and was received by the lieute- 
 nant governor, who considered it his duty to accom- 
 modate him in the castle, and had ordered all the 
 garrison under arms ; whilst the guns in the mean time 
 fired a numerous volley from the walls, to which the ship 
 answered with ten discharges. His highness requested to 
 lodge, according to his custom, in a private house ; where 
 having received the commandant, he retired immediately, 
 without going out any more that evening. 
 
 On the 30th, his highness walked up to the castle, ac- 
 companied by the commandant, and afterwards descended 
 to make the tour of the fortifications. Both at his going 
 in and coming out, the soldiery were paraded, and a sa- 
 
110 
 
 lute was fired from all the guns ; to which the ship an- 
 swered with twenty-one rounds. On his returning home 
 he entertainedthe Bomrhandant jrfid the captain at dinner. 
 The day was spent in walking with these persons till late 
 in the evening ; and, returning home, he retired*f^»-"rfis^ 
 
 Nine leagues from the farthest westerly point of En- 
 gland, there is a space of sea, which, in a circuit of seventy 
 miles, embraces a very great number of small islands and 
 rocks, a great part of which are constantly covered with 
 water, and are the cause of more shipwrecks than happen 
 perhaps in all the other seas of Europe together. These 
 islands, which, by modern geographers, are called the Sor- 
 lings, are, by the English, more commonly known by the 
 name of Scilly ; and under this denomination are generally 
 comprehended the sunken ones, as well as the others ; and 
 amongst these last, which are about an hundred in num- 
 ber, as well the rocky and deserted ones as those which 
 naturally produce grass, and those which the population 
 has rendered in some degree fruitful. The last mentioned 
 are seven in all: St. Mary's, which is the principal, St. 
 Martin's, St. Agnes, Tresco, Bryer, Samson, and St. 
 Hellena. On each of the two last, there is only a single fa- 
 mily, which, besides an adequate number of cattle, cultivate 
 as much land as is capable of affording them an abund- 
 
Ill 
 
 ant sustenance. Of the others, that of St. Mary is the 
 principal, both on account of the capaciousness and secu- 
 rity of its harbour, and the superiQ}r^,^minb|f-^,pC i^ .ijjha- 
 bitants. Of these, all the islands t5gether are estimated to 
 contain about a thousand, who live separate in small towns^ 
 or rather assemblages of houses ; in St. Mary's, there are 
 twelve or fourteen of them. Their habitations are low ; 
 but, in other respects, resemble the buildings of England, 
 being made of excellent materials. The more common 
 ones have a peculiar sort of covering by way of roof, having 
 nothing but a simple mat spread over the rafters, drawn 
 tight all round, and fixed firmly to the top of the walls. 
 This, they say, is the sort of covering used very commonly 
 in Bermuda, and it is necessary to renew it every year. The 
 best houses are covered with slate ; but these are few. The 
 inhabitants are comfortable, and follow fishing; fish being 
 here in great abundance, and much better, [tl^ai^ ilR f^'S 
 Channel : and they likewise attend to the cultivation of the 
 land, which produces wheat and oats in exactly sufficient 
 quantities for their support. Corn of late began to be 
 scarce, in consequence of the increase of popidation pro- 
 duced by the marriages of the soldiers of the garrison with 
 the islanders; but this has been remedied for some years 
 past, by forbidding them to marry. In all the islands, no 
 
112 
 
 other trees are to be found but apple and cherry trees, which 
 were planted a few years since by the present governor on 
 his farm, and have thriven wonderfully. In digging the 
 ground, there are found in many places a great number 
 of very thick stumps of oak, which evidently belonged to 
 trees of extraordinary magnitude. There is likewise » 
 reasonable quantity of cattle ; whence neither cheese nor 
 butter are wanting ; consequently of the necessaries, and 
 even the comforts of life, few things are imported, as even 
 beer is made here. The whole government is in the 
 hands of the commandant of the fortress, who, at present, 
 
 is Sir Godolphin, and as he has never been to take 
 
 possession of it, it may be said that he is unknown here; 
 hence the whole authority is vested in Colonel Janowick, 
 a gentleman of Cornwall, his lieutenant-governor. 
 
 The fortress stands on a hill, which shuts in the harbour 
 to the east, and commands the whole water. On the high- 
 est part is a castle, founded by Queen Elizabeth in the 
 year 1570, which consists of two small enclosures; that 
 without having eight turrets, and that within four. At 
 the foot of the hill, on the sea-shore, is a circular 
 entrenchment, with embrasures in the most suitable 
 situations, in which, and on the bastions of the fortress, are 
 moxmted 130 very beautiful iron culverins. The har- 
 

 
 I 
 
 s 
 
 I 
 
113 
 
 bour is capable of containing five hundred ships with con- 
 venience, and is perfectly secure, in the first place, owing 
 to the goodness of its bottom, and in the next place, 
 from its being sheltered all round by the island and the 
 neighbouring rocks. It appears open on the south only, 
 but yet is not less defended on this side than on the 
 others ; as a natural rock, which" is'Alti^jrs covered with 
 water, extends for three leagues in that direction. This 
 harbour may be entered and left with every possible wind, 
 having four large openings, tO the *north, south, west, and 
 east ; the largest ships enter with safety, in any direction, 
 except that on the east it is necessary to wait for high 
 water, owing to the shallowness of the bottom : neverthe- 
 less it must not be attempted when the sea is agitated, or 
 the atmosphere foggy, the channels which lead to it being 
 very narrow and winding. The temperature of the air is 
 wholesome, clear and serene, whence the mists do not con- 
 tinue more than four hours. 
 
 In the time of the late m^slt, the garrison consisted of six 
 hundred men; at present, there are two hundred ; the king 
 expending annually for the support of the fortress, officers, 
 and garrisons, about four thousand pounds sterling, in- 
 cluding the stipend of the governor; which is two thousand 
 
ai4 
 
 crowns, and that of the chaplain, which is four hundred. 
 Twenty of the soldiers are employed to guard the castle of 
 Bryer, which is situated at the mouth of the harbour of 
 Grimyby. This is likewise very secure and spacious, but 
 more difficult to enter, and consequently to sail out oi^ 
 than that of St. Mary's; for which reason, in order to get 
 in with safety, many ships fire a gun as a signal, on which 
 a boat or shallop is sent off by the governor with expe- 
 rienced persons, who conduct them into port. For this 
 service a crown is paid, besides the anchorage, which is 
 three shillings, the perquisite of the governor of the 
 fortress, to whom belong even the wrecks which 
 remain on these rocks, in case none of the crew 
 escape ; but from this custom ships of war belonging 
 to the king are exempt. The inhabitants of this island 
 are reckoned very zealous observers of the genuine An- 
 glican religion, and the most loyal subjects which the 
 king has in all the kingdom. This was very clearly shewn 
 in the late revolution ; they having been the last to sur- 
 render to the new government, after a long and obstinate 
 defence, and after having afforded a faithful and secure 
 retreat in the island of St. Mary's to the late king, who, 
 after he had been defeated in the battle of Worcester, took 
 
115 
 
 refuge here, to wait for a conjuncture more favorable to 
 his interests, although, at last, after the delay of a month, 
 he resolved to go over to France. 
 
 On the 31st, the wind having changed to the n.w., the 
 captain sent very early in the morning, to notify his de- 
 parture to his highness, who came on board before nine 
 o'clock, after having received the homage of the governor, 
 and been accompanied by him to the boat. When he 
 left the shore, the fortress fired a royal salute, which was 
 answered, as soon as his highness got on board, with 
 twenty-five guns ; the castle saluted again as he quitted 
 the harbour, and the frigate replied with the same number 
 as before. As soon as they had cleared the rocks, they 
 made sail, and, in about two hours, towards mid-day, they 
 were abreast of the cape of Land's End ; and having soon 
 after entered the Channel, and passed Falmouth, we found 
 ourselves, at sun set, only one league from the point of 
 Dedman, which signifies " the dead man." It was then 
 night, and the wind still continuing favorable, and find- 
 ing ourselves close to land, in 'order that we might not 
 overshoot the point of Plymouth in the night, we began 
 to tack backwards and forwards ; and continued in this 
 manner, till four o'clock of the morning of the 1st of 
 April, when the wind got round to the north, being thus 
 
116 
 
 directly in the teeth of those who attempted to enter the 
 harbour ; yet, thanks to the goodness of the ship, and the 
 great exertions aLifdindustry of the pilot, they so gained 
 upon the wind in five or six tacks, that they succeeded in 
 coming to an anchor before two o'clock in the afternoon* 
 About nine d'(5lock "the next morning, we rejoined our 
 comrade, which had parted company the very first eve- 
 ning that we sailed from Corunna. Having steered 
 more directly for the cape of Brittany, in two days and si 
 half she made the Sorlings, and four days afterwards an- 
 chored at Plymouth, where, receiving no intelligence of us 
 for four days, she sailed back to the Sorlings in quest of 
 us; but discovering us the preceding evening, as we passed 
 Falmouth, where she was lying at anchor, she happily 
 came up with us in the morning. When within gun 
 shot, she saluted with a discharge of seven guns, to which 
 we answered with five. The captain then coming on 
 board, presented to his highness letters from Colonel 
 Gascoyne, written two days before at Plymouth ; but a few 
 hours afterwards, when the frigate began to enter the har- 
 bour, he came himself to make his obeisance to his highness, 
 bringing with him Major Andrews, deputy to Sir Charles 
 Cotterel, the master of the ceremonies, and introducer of 
 ambassadors at court. He was commissioned by the 
 
117 
 
 king to offer his services, and accompany his highness on 
 his journey, and to see that every necessary accommoda- 
 tion was provided for his lodgings. Being therefore in- 
 troduced into the state cabin, he paid his respects to his 
 highness, and then went back on deck, where he had not 
 stood long, before the Signors Antonio Antinori and Lo- 
 renzo del Rosso appeared in another boat. Having 
 anchored in the middle of the bay of Plymouth, the frigate 
 saluted the fortress with eleven guns, and, receiving eleven 
 in reply, acknowledged them with three, which, however, 
 did not remain unanswered ; the castle also saluted the 
 frigate with seven guns, and she returned the salute with 
 five. 
 
 His highness then landing, the frigate saluted with all 
 the ordnance, both in the upper and lower tiers, making 
 altogether, twenty-one rounds. To this salute succeeded 
 that of the castle, and to that succeeded the fortress and 
 the forts which guard the entrance of the two banks ; alto- 
 gether, sixty discharges. On disembarking, the mayor 
 and aldermen, in their habits of ceremony, came to receive 
 and compliment his highness, which, as it had not been 
 notified to him, he could not avoid. A few paces farther 
 on, stood the military governor expecting him, who paid 
 his respects to him in the name of his majesty, and then 
 
118 
 
 accompanied him tQLihis lodging, with all the military 
 officers, walking between a double line of soldiers of the 
 garrison, under arms, with colours flying, trumpets sound- 
 ing, and drums beating, besides the festive shouts and ac- 
 clamations of a very numerous population, who, for want 
 of room in the public streets, had filled the roofs of the 
 houses and the shrouds and rigging of the ships which were 
 at anchor in the dock. A lodging was prepared for his 
 highness in the house of Mr. Jenings, one of the princi- 
 pal merchants, and, at present, alderman of the town. The 
 governor then arrived, and having been introduced into 
 his highness's apartment, soon after retired. With the 
 same view of making their obeisance, there arrived from 
 their country seats. Sir Richard Edgecomb and Mr. Pri- 
 deaux, both gentlemen of consideration in the county, 
 who were immediately introduced by Signor Gascoyne ; 
 and, when they were gone, his highness retired to rest. 
 r On the 2nd, the two captains and the officers of the 
 frigate came to pay their respects to his highness, and to 
 thank him for the liberal presents they had received 
 from him. Captain Hart had received the sum of one 
 thousand crowns ; Captain Fooly, one hundred pounds 
 sterling ; the lieutenant of the frigate the same ; and the 
 pilot, besides his share of two hundred pistoles given to be 
 
<1W 
 
 divided amongst the soldiers and Sailors, a ^old medal, with 
 his highness's portrait. After these had departed, the go- 
 vernor arrived, who introduced all his captains, ensigns, 
 and other chief officers of the garrison, to congratulate his 
 highness; and, after these, he was congratulated by Sir 
 William Stroude, one of the gentry of the province. 
 After dinner, his highness, attended by the governor, em-* 
 barked to see the two rivers which disembogue themselves 
 into this harbour; but the weather being very SitdWy, h^ 
 was obliged to return before he had well put off from the 
 shore. Soon afterwards, he walked on foot to the city^ 
 to view two churches ; and, on his return home, he 
 stopped at a shop where marbles are sold, such as are 
 found in the province; and at the house of an ingenious me- 
 chanic, a maker of watches and other automatical machines. 
 On the 3rd, the captains came to take leave of hi^ 
 highness, and, with them, two young gentlemen volun- 
 teers, who were presented by Sign or Castiglione, in the 
 name of his highness, with two rich gold collars. After- 
 wards, Mr. Stroude arrived, and shewed his highness dif^ 
 ferent specimens of the mines of lead, tin, and loadstone, 
 lately discovered by him in that neighbourhood. His 
 highness made him stay and dine with him, in company 
 with the governor, that is, the lieutenant of my Lord John 
 
mo 
 
 Greenvile, Earl of Bath, first gentleman of the chamber to 
 the king. The following day he was taken to see the 
 fortress, where, both on his entrance and departure, he 
 was saluted by all the guns, and by three discharges of 
 musketry from the soldiery, who, happening to be on pa- 
 rade at the time his highness arrived at the governor's 
 quarters, drew up in squadrons under his windows. In 
 the saloon, was the governor's wife and four other ladies, 
 with whom his highness partook of a collation prepared 
 for him I after which, he went with them to see the house 
 and private armory of the governor. Having made the 
 tour of the fortifications and bastions, as far as the weather 
 pe?J3)itted (an^.-a y^jry lieayj snow beginning to fall) he 
 returned home. ^ 
 
 At seven o'clock of the same day, his highness, accom- 
 panied by the governor, went into a boat, and by the assis- 
 tance of the tide, was carried to Saltash, a small town on the 
 right bank of the river Tamar, where formerly flourished 
 the same commerce which is now transferred to Plymouth. 
 It was his intention to have gone higher up, in order to 
 see the new tin-mines lately discovered by Sir W. Stroude; 
 but having arrived at the last mentioned place very late, in 
 consequence of the wind being against him, he resolved to 
 return, after having made a short preambulation through 
 
121 
 
 the lower parts of the city. On his return, passing ilnder 
 the castle of St. Frances, he was saluted by it with dis- 
 charges of artillery, and the same compliment was paid by 
 the entrenchments which guard the mouth of the eastern 
 river, which his highness, having reached after along walk, 
 returned back to dinner. He detained the governor to 
 dinner, and at the bottom of the table, below the gentle^' 
 men of his suite, he caused the master of the house to be 
 s^tcd. To-day he did not go out, and conversed a long 
 time with the governor, who took him to see the plan of a 
 new fortification. After him, Sir Richard Edgecumbe, 
 and Mr. Prideaux came to pay their respects andwish^ 
 him a good journey, and thus the day ended; his de^ 
 parture for Exeter being determined upon for the day fol- 
 lowing. 
 
 Plymouth, in the last century, was a poor village, in- 
 habited by fishermen. It is now so increased in buildings 
 and population, that it may be reckoned among the best 
 <;ities of England, having between twelve and fifteen thou- 
 sand inhabitants. This great advantage it derives from 
 the capaciousness and convenience of a large bay, which 
 extending itself inland between two promontories, not only 
 admits ships to a tranquil and secure sheltering place, but 
 conveys tliem with the tide, which is here very powerful, 
 
122 
 
 into two other bays still farther inland, being the spacious 
 channels of two rivers, which empty themselves into the 
 sea, one to the west, and the other to the east of the farthest 
 point of the larger bay. The first, which is the Tamar, 
 is navigable for six miles by the largest men of war which 
 the king possesses, and for ten, by merchant ships of all 
 kinds, and as its windings form frequent bays, surround- 
 ed by mountains, it affords them perfectly secure places 
 of retreat. Vessels could formerly get three or four miles up 
 the other river, but as the Channel is narrower, and the 
 cutting down of the roads for the purpose of reducing the 
 land to a state of cultivation, has loosened the earth from 
 the neighbouring mountains, this, coming down with the 
 rain, has so filled up the bottom, that little more than a 
 mile is practicable for the larger frigates. On the sea- 
 side, towards the east, and near the coast, is a small iso- 
 lated mountain, called St. Michael's, capable of defending 
 to a certain extent, the first entrance of the port. There 
 are other fortifications at the mouths of the rivers ; on the 
 Tamar, is an ancient castle, called St. Francis ; on the 
 highest part of a small island, and on the Plym, an en- 
 trenchment of earth, well supplied with artillery ; a simi- 
 lar one defends the mouth of the dock, towards the city f 
 and others are disposed on a rock which protects, in front, 
 
123 
 
 the whole length of the bay. All these are, neverthelessj 
 commanded by the new citadel, which the king built to 
 b^^ check upon the inhabitants, who shewed themselves 
 on a former occasion, prone to sedition; and that spirit 
 ?being now fostered by the influx of wealth, which a flou- 
 Wshing commerce produces, renders them objects of rea- 
 sonable suspicion. This citadel is placed on the top of 
 -a mountain, which forms the bottom of the bay from 
 without, and serves as a defence to the port, against the 
 s^lL J» hence it commands equally the sea and the town, 
 and batters or defends, as occasion may require, all the 
 before-mentioned fortifications. The building is all of 
 stone, and is furnished with breast-work. The plan is 
 totally irregular, having three demi-bastions, and four 
 entire ones, of different proportions. In the interior of it, 
 it is said, that the king wishes to build a private habitation 
 for himself. The governor of it, is my Lord John Gran- 
 ville, Earl of Bath ; and Sir Skelton is his lieutenant. 
 
 Five companies, of about seventy men each, officers and 
 soldiers, are on duty there ; one of these belongs to the 
 duke's regiment. The men are very handsome, and in 
 excellent order; four companies wearing red jackets, lined 
 with yellow, and that of the duke, yellow, with red lining. 
 In the citadel and the forts, are, altogether, one hundred 
 
 St 
 
124 
 
 and thirty pieces of cannon, the greater part of iron ; Crom- 
 well having carried off all the brass ones from the different 
 fortresses, in order to equip the vessels of his fleet. The 
 city cannot be seen from the sea, and is almost shut up by 
 a gorge of the mountains, on the lowest skirt of which it 
 is situated. Its extent is not very considerable. The 
 buildings are antique, according to the English fashion ; 
 lofty and narrow, with pointed roofs, and the fronts may 
 be seen through, owing to the magnitude of the glass win* 
 dows in each of the different stories. They are occupied 
 from top to bottom. There are two churches of gothic 
 architecture. In spirituals, Plymouth is subject to the 
 bishop of Exetei' ; in temporals, it has the ordinary go- 
 vernment, composed of the mayor, the head of the council, 
 and thirty-six inferior magistrates, called aldermen, who 
 are chosen every year in the month of May ; but of these, 
 only twenty-four give their attendance : their dress is a 
 gown, reaching to the ground, made of black cloth, richly 
 ornamented with stripes of velvet, also black, and having 
 square collars lined with skin of the same colour. The life 
 of the city is navigation. The inhabitants export lead and 
 tin in greater quantities than any other article, and with 
 these they go to the Canaries, and to the Western Islands. 
 I'o Barbadoes, in the new world, and in every part of 
 
125 
 
 Europe, they act as carriers, conveying merchandize from 
 place to place, at an immense profit to themselves. Hence 
 it is that, in Plymouth, only women and boys are to be 
 seen ; the greater part of the men living at sea ; and lience 
 also, the town is exceedingly well supplied ; all the neces- 
 saries of life being found there, and every thing exempt 
 from duty, except wine, which, as it is not produced in 
 this island, is necessarily imported from foreign countries ; 
 and not only is there great plenty of meat, cloth, and 
 linen, but of many other articles that administer to 
 luxury and to pleasure ; and silversmiths, watchmakers, 
 jewellers, and other artists of this description, are not want- 
 ing. In the neighbourhood are very rich veins of marble 
 of different colours, some of which are black veined with 
 white, and take a most beautiful polish. At a little dis- 
 tance, some mines of tin have been opened on the estate 
 
 of Sir Berkley, which yield eighty per cent., besides 
 
 a considerable quantity of gold and silver ; not far from 
 these they have discovered another of load-stone, which, 
 although very far from rich, shews that the earth has a 
 great disposition to the production of minerals. The sea 
 produces oysters in great abundance, and of excellent 
 quality, and the rivers, a great quantity of salmon. Ply- 
 mouth is on the edge of the county of Devonshire, divided 
 
126 
 
 from Cornwall by the river Tamar. Besides the tax of 
 two shilHngs, which the inhabitants and neighbourhood 
 pay annually, and which is called road right, the king 
 derives very considerable advantage from the customs of 
 this port ; every ship which anchors here being obliged to 
 pay five per cent, on the merchandize they discharge ; 
 half of which, however, is returned, whenever it is re- 
 shipped for other parts. They likewise pay four-pence 
 per ton for the lights which burn in the light-houses at 
 night. 
 
 On the 5th of the same month. Sir Jonathan Spark 
 came to pay his respects to the serene prince, accom- 
 panied by his son. This gentleman is an inhabitant 
 of Plymouth, in the neighbourhood of which he possesses 
 an estate of a thousand pounds a year ; consequently he 
 is considered the principal person of the place. The go- 
 vernor then came to take leave, and afterwards Sir Richard 
 Edgecumbe and Mr. Prideaux came in, to wish his high- 
 ness a good journey. About three they dined, and towards 
 five, took their departure ; his highness being attended 
 by the governor on horsback, who, when they had got two 
 miles from Plymouth, appeared at the coach-door, to take 
 leave once more. He had wished to have paraded the 
 military, as was done on his highness's arrival, but the 
 
127 
 
 latter courteously declined it. When they had proceeded 
 about a mile after the governor's departure, there came 
 gallopping up to the coach, Sir Copleston Bampfylde, with 
 his wife and sister. They happened to be hunting in that 
 neighbourhood, and wished not to lose the opportunity of 
 performing an act of respect to his highness. The serene 
 prince stopped the carriage, and received their compli- 
 ments, but did not alight to salute them, not knowing, 
 till afterwards, who the ladies were. They passed through 
 the small village of Halbombridge, consisting of a few 
 houses thatched with straw; and, after travelling some dis- 
 tance, arrived at Okehampton, to sleep. On alighting, 
 his highness was received by the mayor and aldermen ; 
 and put up at the Angel Inn. The whole of the country 
 was hilly, with some rather abrupt mountains ; some parts 
 were desert, and others tolerably fertile, cidtivated with 
 wheat and oats ; the fields being surrounded with hedges 
 and dry walls. Okehampton is a place of little account, 
 situated on the small river Hocan ; the houses are built 
 of earth and stone, and thatched with straw ; and its 
 whole consequence is derived from the abundance of 
 cheese produced in the adjacent country, which is famous 
 for. cows ; and this is sold in considerable quantities to the 
 dealers who come hither every week in great numbers. 
 
128 
 
 On the 6th, after dinner, they departed, and arrived irf ' 
 the evening at Exeter, going by the direct road till they 
 passed Crediton, commonly called Kerbon, a village with;' 
 a considerable population, all of whom are occupied in 
 the wool manufactory. The country was uneven, but 
 more fertile, and better inhabited than that passed over 
 the preceding day ; every where were seen fields sur-^*- 
 rounded with rows of trees, in (^d^!^ of the most beautiful 
 verdure, gentlemen's seats, and small collections of housesw*'^ 
 The materials of which these are constructed are mud, 
 mixed up with short straw and chips of sTafe/ and tlle^*' 
 are thickly thatched with straw. Two miles from the 
 city, after they had passed the bridge of Isca, called h^ ' 
 the EngHsh Ex, several of thfe prmcf ji^T gi^ritlettteh of the 
 city came to meet and pay their respects to his highness^' 
 who, descending from his carriage, answered with his usual 
 courtesy. When he reached the city, the people of which 
 assembled in such numbers as to fill the suburbs and all 
 the streets through which his highness passed, he alighted 
 at the inn called the New Inn, where several gentlemen 
 shortly arrived from the neighbouring places to pay their 
 compliments to him. Soon after, the mayor, aldermen, 
 and bailiffs, unexpectedly arrived in their magisterial 
 habits of ceremony, with the insignia of justice and mace- 
 
129 
 
 bearers before them : they found his highness up stairs in 
 the saloon, who, after having received them graciously, 
 and desired the mayor to be covered, heard, and replied 
 to, his congratulations. He requested his highness to be 
 allowed to give him a public entertainment at his own 
 house, which invitation his highness refused, on the plea 
 of his being incog., a plea he had made use of elsewhere ; 
 and, above all, on account of the haste in which he was, 
 from his impatience to be in London and kiss the hands 
 of his majesty the king. After they were gone. Sir Arthur 
 Ackland came in, a young man of seventeen years of age, 
 who, by the death of his father, is come into possession of 
 a fortune of two thousand pounds per annum. Also Messrs. 
 John and Dennis Rolle, sons of Sir John RoUe, one of 
 the two lieutenants-general of the county under the ge- 
 neral. This gentleman is one of the richest in the country, 
 having, an estate of six thousand pounds sterling per 
 annum, besides a considerable property in ready money ; 
 which will enable him to give a reasonable fortune to his 
 younger sons. With him the day ended. 
 
 On the 7th, his highness went to the cathedral church 
 at the hour of prayer, about nine o'clock, and stood a 
 considerable time in conversation with Signor Castiglini 
 and Sergeaut-Major Andrews, in the body of the church, 
 
 ^ 
 
130 
 
 dfeserving'with much curiosity the place set apart for the 
 
 offices of rehgion, which are performed according to thiej 
 
 Anglican Liturgy, by the clergy, assisted by the bishops 
 
 who is, at present. Doctor Antony Sparrow, lately elected 
 
 to this see ; which was vacated by the translation of Dr. 
 
 Seth Ward to that of Salisbury. The bishop was seated 
 
 in a marble tabernacle, on the Epistle-side, on a seat co* 
 
 vered with red cloth, dressed in the habit which was used 
 
 by the Catholic bishops of the kingdom before the apos- 
 
 tacy ; namely, a surplice over a black vest, and a mantle 
 
 of the same colour ; on his head he wore a small cap, 
 
 similar to that of the Roman pontiffs, without any other 
 
 ornament ; and before him, on the edge of the tabernacle, 
 
 over which was extended a large canopy of red cloth, was 
 
 placed a cushion, and on that the book; and imder the 
 
 tabernacle, on a level with the floor of the church, in an 
 
 inclosure of wood, stood the wife of the bishop, and his 
 
 children, no less than nine in number. In the prebendal 
 
 stalls, sat, according to their rank, the dignitaries and 
 
 canons, in their canonical habits, i. e. a surplice, and a 
 
 "mantle of black silk, differing in shape from that of the 
 
 bishop, as being narrower both before and behind. These, 
 
 in conjunction with other regular choristers, sang the 
 
 psalms in the English language, in a chant similar to 
 
131 
 
 the Gregorian, making their pauses to the sound of 
 the organ, which has been erected lately on the wall 
 separating the choir from the rest of the church, and 
 is of a most exquisite tone. In reciting the prayers or- 
 dained by their ritual, they all fell on their knees, the 
 choir making alternate responses ; and after a chapter from 
 scripture, and from one of the epistles of St. Paul, had 
 been read, a minister went to the altar in his surplice, 
 and turning round to the people, read distinctly, standing, 
 the Commandments of the Decalogue; and at each com- 
 mandment, the choir answered in their own language, with 
 a musical cadence, " Lord, have mercy upon us." When 
 this was over, a hymn was first given out by a singer 
 under the pulpit, and then sung by the whole choir ; and 
 this being ended, the preacher, in his surplice, immediately 
 began his sermon, leaning on a cushion placed in the 
 middle of the pulpit, which is opposite to the bishop's 
 seat, who is obliged to attend at the prescribed times, both 
 at morning prayers and at vespers, and at all the other of- 
 fices. Departing hence, his highness went to see the ancient 
 eastle, and then making a tour round the walls of the 
 city on the outside, he returned home to dinner, enter- 
 taining at table, besides the usual gentlemen, Colonel 
 
 Gascoyne, the two brothers Rolle, Mr. Ford, one of the 
 
 s * 
 
a32 
 
 two lieutenants of the county, lately appointed secretary 
 to Lord Robert, for the purpose of accompanying him to 
 Ireland, and Major Andrews. After dinner, Mr. Kirkam, 
 who is the only Catholic gentleman in the county, came 
 to pay his respects to his highness, and soon afterwards, 
 Sir John RoUe, who came from his house in the country, 
 on purpose to pay his obeisance. After their departure, 
 his highness went to Sir John Rolle's house, to visit his 
 wife, who received him in a room where were assembled, 
 along with her, her three daughters; Miss Earl, sister of a 
 rich gentleman of the county, who, they said, was to be 
 the wife of the eldest son of Sir John above-mentioned ; 
 and three sisters of Mr. Kirkam, who were unmarried, 
 and Catholics, cousins on the mother's side to Sir John 
 Rolle. His highness conversed standing, and on taking 
 leave, returned directly home, and passed the evening with- 
 out any other occurrence worth mentioning. 
 
 Exeter, the capital of the county of Devonshire, is a 
 small city, situated on the river Isca, about ten miles from 
 the sea. The river there empties itself into a large bay, 
 up which the largest vessels, even those of three hundred 
 tons burden, can pass safely as far as Topsham, a village 
 three miles from Exeter; whence merchandize is conveyed 
 in smaller boats quite up to the city. The advantage of 
 
133 
 
 this commerce is very great; about thirty thousand per- 
 sons being continually employed in the county, in making 
 baize and different sorts of light cloth. It is sold to all 
 parts, being sent to the West Indies, Spain, France, and 
 Italy; but the greater part goes into the Levant. The 
 very best cloth is also made, both for home consumption 
 and for exportation ; but the trade in this is not consider- 
 able, in comparison with the other. There is not a cot- 
 tage in all the county, nor in that of Somerset, where white 
 lace is not made in great quantities ; so that not only the 
 whole kingdom is supplied with it, but it is exported in 
 very great abundance. The population of the city is from 
 twenty to twenty-five thousand souls; amongst which, ac- 
 cording to the custom of the kingdom, there is no nobility 
 except such as come from time to time from their country 
 houses, which are their constant residence, to look after 
 their affairs. The form of the buildings is that which is 
 usual throughout the kingdom. The cathedral church of 
 St Peter is a very considerable edifice; the architecture is 
 Gothic; but it deserves praise from its size, and from having 
 its exterior faced with stone. The fa9ade is ornamented 
 wih different figures in stone, both in high and low relief, 
 representing Saints both of the Old and New Testament. 
 Many of these have been injured and broken in the time 
 
134 
 
 of Cromwell, as at that time (the episcopal dignity having 
 become extinct along with the authority of the parlia- 
 ment, and with it the ecclesiastical hierarchy, without 
 any new institutions having been appointed for the go- 
 vernment of their churches) various sects arose with full 
 liberty to every man to form articles of faith at his plea- 
 Wure ; and they were the more approved, the farther they 
 were removed from ecclesiastical discipline : of these, the 
 most considerable (although agreeing with them in Cal- 
 vinism, yet disagreeing in their particular rites) were those 
 of the Presbyterians and Independents. Cromwell was 
 a favourer of the latter sect ; because it left to the civil 
 ttiagi^ti^te^" a jurisdiction entirely unrestricted. The 
 church is long, and divided in the inside into three open 
 naves. The arches are low, and rest upon round pillars ; 
 'over these are galleries which run almost round the whole 
 church ; it is lighted in every direction by large windows, 
 in the glass of which are reflected the figures of saints, 
 as also, round the body of the church, the tombs, and the 
 marble monuments of the ancient Catholic bishops, whose 
 statues have been defaced by the scorn and derision of 
 the Independents. It is the residence, as has been already 
 ^aid, of the bishop ; whose revenue, formerly of five thou^ 
 Sand pounds sterling, was reduced, after the alienations 
 
13a: 
 
 made by Cromwell, to five hundred. At present, some 
 estates having lapsed to it, it has again risen to eight 
 hundred ; and there are hopes that it will daily be aug-* 
 mented by lapses of a similar kind. There are said to 
 be twelve canons, besides four ministers, whose business 
 it is to preach. The music of this church is reckoned 
 amongst the best in the kingdom, owing to the good 
 stipends which the chapter is enabled to give, in conse- 
 quence of its excellent revenues, which are entirely dis-» 
 tinct from those of the bishop. To the chapter, which 
 might with greater propriety be called, the opera of the 
 church, belongs every tiling relating to worship and to 
 the church service. There are twenty other parishes ; but 
 no other church or public building can be compared to 
 the cathedral. At the bottom of the body of the church, 
 where the altar stands, are written on two large tables 
 the ten commandments; at the sides of which are painted 
 Moses and Aaron : over these tables is the cipher of the 
 name of Jesus. On the altar table is laid a covering of red 
 velvet, which, extending itself on each side, falls in front 
 down to the ground; and over this is spread a table cloth* 
 On one side of the table, is a large cushion of velvet of 
 the same colour ; and this supports a silver basin and 
 chalice. There are likewise two vessels for preserving 
 
136 
 
 the wine which they make use of at the Lord's Supper, 
 and two candlesticks of brass. On the Gospel-side, stands 
 the ancient seat of the bishop, but the present one is in a 
 large marble tabernacle, surmounted by a very high lan- 
 tern ; the ornaments of which being taken from the Passion 
 of Christ our Lord, shew it to have been formerly (as was 
 the custom in ancient times) the Pix of the most Holy 
 Sacrament. Now the seat of the bishop is there, in which 
 he assists at the service, and curtains of taffeta are stretched 
 from pillar to pillar ; this throne is placed on the Epistle 
 side, at the head of the choir, which is in the body of the 
 church, in the middle aisle. The other public building 
 of the city is the Old Castle, which is a square inclosure, 
 surrounded by walls with ancient towers, dismantled in- 
 deed both of guns and troops, there being in the city no 
 other soldiers than the mihtia before described, command- 
 ed by the lieutenants, who are created by the king, and 
 who in this county are eight in number. In the castle are 
 two buildings, where, at stated times, are held the courts 
 of justice ; the one on the right, being appropriated to 
 civil, the other to criminal causes. The city is entirely 
 surrounded by walls with towers, built by king Athelstan, 
 son of Edward I., in the year 924. These extend as far 
 as the river, over which is a bridge of stone with ten arches, 
 
137 
 
 which leads to a large suburb on the other siBe. The city- 
 is intersected almost in the middle by a very large atid 
 straight street, full of very rich shops, \vhich is its best and 
 most considerable part. In the square of the cathedral 
 is a most beautiful summer walk, under the shade of trees, 
 into several rows of which it is *3[isfributed, like those 
 which are customary in Holland. The head of the county 
 is the sheriff; he is usually one of the principal gentry of 
 the county, is changed every year, and is chosen by the 
 king. The militia is dependant upon the lieutenants, 
 who also are chosen by the king, but under orders of the 
 general. For settling the civil and criminal causes of the 
 county, four times a-year, that is, every three months, 
 the assize, or assembly of jitclfcature, meets, at which two 
 judges of the parliament are present, who come from 
 
 London on purpose, together with certain other deputies 
 
 ■-♦> . ... 
 
 of the county, to see that the laws of the kingdom are ri- 
 gorously observed. The especial civil government of the city 
 is administered according to the general usage of the king- 
 dom, by the mayor, assisted by aldermen and bailiffs; the 
 former of whom are five, and the latter thirteen. The alder- 
 men, as well as the mayor, wear a very noble dress, being a 
 large gown of red cloth with a cape lined with black skin, 
 plaited very full above the waist, which is rather high, and 
 
138 
 
 entirely lined with yellow skin, with stripes of black vel- 
 vet, which in front, that is, on each side of the opening, 
 falls down almost to the ground. The bailiffs likewise 
 wear gowns of black cloth, richly laced with velvet of the 
 same colour. When the magistracy goes out on any oc- 
 casion of ceremony, a page goes before, in a robe of black 
 cloth, with a mace in his hand ; he is followed by eight 
 other inferior officers in a similar dress, but much longer ; 
 afterwards come four mace-bearers in cloth gowns that 
 reach to the ground, with a silver collar round their necks, 
 from which hangs a medal, carrying small silver maces 
 in their hands, which rest on their right shoulders. Then 
 comes the sword-bearer, as they call him ; he always walks 
 in boots, in a robe of black velvet, reaching to the ground ; 
 a large sword in his hand, the insignia of justice, and a 
 red hat on his head, embroidered with gold, which is 
 never taken off, except to the king himself, because it 
 was the cap of Henry VIII., who, in passing through 
 Exeter, made a present of it for this particular service. 
 The mayor comes last, on the right hand of the oldest of 
 the aldermen ; the other four come behind, two and 
 two. 
 
 On the morning of the 8th, his highness sent Piatt to 
 present his compliments to the mayor. Towards noon, Mr. 
 
139 
 
 Kirkam and the Messrs. Rolle came to wish him a good 
 journey ; after which, having dined, he got into his coach, 
 and departed for Axminster, where he arrived at an early 
 hour. The road was through an uneven country, divided 
 into fields under the plough, and spacious meadows for 
 feeding cows, in which this district abounds. At first 
 we suffered a good deal of inconvenience, because they 
 had to travel a road full of water, and muddy, though not 
 deep. We passed through Honiton, a small, but po- 
 pulous village, situated in a valley, and having ascended 
 a hill, from which we could see the sea, we arrived at Ax- 
 minster, where we found the master of the horse of Henry 
 Howard, brother of the Duke of Norfolk, and of my Lord 
 Philip, grand almoner to the queen, who delivered to 
 Colonel Gascoyne a letter from his master, in which he 
 excused himself for not coming in person to pay his re- 
 spects to his highness, in consequence of his approaching 
 departure on his embassy to Fez ; and informed him that 
 he had sent his carriage to Salisbury, to be at the service 
 of his highness. The master of the horse was admitted 
 to an audience by the serene prince, and departed that 
 same evening for London. His highness then went out 
 to walk, and passed the evening in seeing some ancient 
 medals, which had been dug up in this neighbourhood, 
 
140 
 
 and were brought for his inspection by the minister of 
 the church. 
 
 Axminster is a collection of two hundred houses, many 
 of which are made of mud, and thatched with straw. It 
 contains nothing considerable, except the parish church, 
 which has a tower, in which are bells so well tuned, that 
 their sound is exceedingly harmonious and agreeable. 
 The trade of the inhabitants consists in the manufactory 
 of woollen cloth. 
 
 On the 9th, having travelled twelve miles through a coun- 
 try more cultivated, pleasanter, and more fertile than on 
 the preceding day, we arrived at Hinton Saint George, a villa 
 of my Lord John Paulet, so called from a village of that 
 name, from which he takes the title of baron, in addition 
 to the others which this noble and ancient family enjoys, 
 and which were conferred upon it by King Edward VI. 
 in the year 1552 ; that of duke, however, which it enjoyed 
 in right of the lordship of the island of Jersey, it lost, hav- 
 ing been deprived of it after the death of Queen Mary, 
 daughter of Henry VIII., in the reign of Queen Eliza- 
 beth. His highness dined there, entertaining at his table, 
 besides Major Andrews, Mr. Dennis Rplle. His highness 
 amused himself in the morning with riding in the park, 
 and in the afternoon with walking in the garden, where 
 
141 
 
 •Mr. John Sidney, cousin of my Lord Paulet, arrived from 
 his villa, six miles distant, bringing his lady with him, to 
 pay his respects. His highness took her by the hand, and 
 conducted her to a gallery hard by, and, departing after 
 a short conversation, continued in discourse with the above 
 gentleman till the close of the day. 
 
 The villa of my Lord Paulet is an ancient irregular 
 building, faced on the outside with a sort of porous stone; 
 the house, therefore, is of a noble appearance, good, and 
 spacious ', nor are gardens wanting, both for utility and 
 pleasure. One of them contains every kind both of culinary 
 vegetables and fruit that grows in this climate : in the 
 other there is a parterre very different from the common 
 style of English gardens ; these are, usually, walks of 
 sand, made perfectly level, by rolling them with a stone 
 cylinder, through the axis of which a lever of iron is 
 passed, whose ends being brought forward, and united to- 
 gether in form of a triangle, serve to move it backwards or 
 forwards ; and between the walks are smooth grass-plats 
 covered with the greenest turf, wihout any other ornament. 
 This of my Lord Paulet is a meadow divided into several 
 compartments of brick-work, which are filled with flowers. 
 Round the house is the park, three miles in circumfer- 
 ence, surrounded by a thick row of trees, between each of 
 
142 
 
 which is a terrace of turf; and where the trees begin to 
 shoot out branches ; these, intertwined together, form, along 
 with the earth of the terraces, a fence of the strongest de- 
 scription. In this park are six hundred deer, to which 
 the mixture of plain, of hill, of coppice-wood, and mea- 
 dow-land, together with two plentiful springs of water, 
 which are within the same enclosure, afford a most suitable 
 abode. The deer are of two sorts, black and red ; the 
 latter, though smaller, fatten sooner than the others. They 
 begin to hunt them early in June, and continue it for six 
 weeks ; they hunt only the fattest, driving them with dogs 
 into a corner of the park; they kill about one hundred 
 annually. In winter, when the pasture fails, they give 
 them hay and leaves of trees, particularly when snow falls 
 (although it soon melts in these parts) ; making this ob- 
 servation, that where the moles dwell (of which there is a 
 great abundance, and, on this account, they keep strict 
 watch, to prevent them spoiling the land) deer seldom re- 
 sort. Near the house is a wood for pheasants, with its 
 walks cut with the greatest exactness, which greatly en- 
 hances its pleasantness. On the other side, towards the 
 village, is the parish church, an ordinary building, and by 
 no means large, where the people assemble for the exer- 
 cise of their worship. It has no altar ; but in the body of 
 
143 
 
 the church are suspended solely the king's arms, as is 
 the case in the greater part of the churches or temples of 
 England, in which they were placed by an edict of Kitig 
 Edward VI., who, when the images of saints were prohibit- 
 ed, caused them to be removed from the churches; and, 
 instead of the crucifix, which was usually placed in the 
 principal part of them, ordered the armorial bearings of 
 the kings of England to be engraved and put up. On 
 the Gospel-side of the church is a chapel of the family of 
 Paulet, in which are deposited several members of the 
 family ; amongst the most distinguished, is that of my 
 Lord Paulet, father of the present baron, which, besides 
 being more modern, is worthy of notice, from its being 
 built in good style, of coloured stone, and illuminated 
 with gold ; it is also adorned with a sepulchral urn, sup- 
 ported by two satyrs, under which is the epitaph. Three 
 leagues from Axminster you leave Devonshire, and cros- 
 sing a small tongue of the county of Dorset, enter that of 
 Somerset, in which is Hinton Saint George. 
 
 From Hinton Saint George we went to dine, on the 1 0th, 
 at Dorchester, passing through the villages of Crewkherne, 
 Southprad, Maiden Newton and Frampton. Having passed 
 Crewkherne, which is about three miles from Hinton Saint 
 George, they re-entered the county of Dorset, of which Dor- 
 
144 
 
 Chester is the capital. As soon as his highness rose from table, 
 he was congratulated by the mayor and all the magistracy 
 in black dresses, this being the distinction between the cities 
 and towns, the former only having the privilege of using 
 xed gowns. When the magistrates were gone, his high- 
 ness mounted his horse with his attendants, and with a 
 retinue composed of many of the inhabitants of the town, 
 and was conducted by the mayor to see a celebrated an- 
 tiquity, two miles distant, called the Roman Camp, and, 
 by the English, Fossway, it being an ancient tradition that 
 the Roman armies, who subdued this country, were there 
 reduced to straits on a certain occasion. A little more than 
 two musket shots from the place is seen an elevated mound 
 of earth, more than twice the height of a man, of an oval 
 form, which served for a theatre, as the inhabitants have a 
 notion, judging not only from the shape as before-men- 
 tioned, but from its having an inclination or declivity si- 
 milar to that of theatres. It appears rather that this might 
 be an advanced post, it being betwixt the camp and the 
 town, and having, as they say, a subterraneous passage, by 
 vyhich it communicates with it ; moreover, another similar 
 enclosure of a circular form, situated in another direction 
 with respect to the larger fortification, appears to favour 
 this supposition. At last you reach the camp, which, in- 
 
"X 
 
 
 J 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 V 
 
 \.:J 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
145 
 
 stead of being composed of earth conveyed thither, ap- 
 pears very clearly to have been an isolated mountain, and 
 cut all round into three tiers of very high entrenchments, 
 distinct from each other, with wide ditches between. The 
 shape cannot be exactly ascertained, appearing for the 
 most part circular; but in some places the angles may 
 be clearly perceived, yet without one's being able accu- 
 rately to distinguish the plan. There are in all two en- 
 trances ; before each of which the three tiers of entrench- 
 ments are multiplied into numerous other fortifications, 
 which served perhaps better to secure the ingress, as it is 
 at present the custom to conceal the gates of fortresses 
 behind a double half moon. Hillocks of earth, which are 
 reported to have been monuments of Roman soldiers and 
 captains, are scattered all over the surrounding country, 
 and extend to the distance of thirty miles in every direc- 
 tion. From this fortification, his highness descended 
 into the plain, through which runs the small river Frome, 
 whose waters contain abundance of most excellent trout. 
 Their mode of angling here is very different from the 
 common one; for, where our fishermen hold the hook still 
 for a long time in the same place, these keep it in continual 
 motion, darting the line into the water like the lash of a 
 whip, then drawing it along a few paces, they throw it in 
 
146 
 
 afresh; repeating this operation till the fish is caught. His 
 highness, on his return home, found the captain of a troop 
 of horse belonging to the militia of the county, who had 
 been called together to escort the person and baggage of 
 his highness on the following day. He was admitted to 
 pay his respects to bis highness, who invited him to sup- 
 per with the gentlemen of his train. 
 
 Dorchester is a simple town, standing on an inclined 
 plane ; it is not large, nor surrounded with walls, nor a 
 place of much trade, nor handsome : it contains altogether 
 only from ten to twelve thousand inhabitants; so that the 
 county, of which it is the capital, would deserve a better. 
 The foundation of the oil may be said to be entirely of 
 flint-stone, but so covered with earth, that perhaps more 
 beautiful pasture cannot be found in all England. The 
 cattle are in consequence innumerable; and from them the 
 gentry of the county derive the chief part of their reve- 
 nues. The whole of the country is uneven, but open ; and 
 the meadows are not so naked, but that coppice-wood is 
 frequently to be seen, particularly in the vallies, which, 
 being almost all of them watered by frequent and copious 
 pools, or rather by small rivulets, produce very green pas- 
 tures, perpetually covered with cattle. On this account, 
 the dwellings seem more thinly scattered than in the 
 
W7 
 
 counties of Devonshire and Somerset, In proof of the 
 prodigious quantity of cattle, it is said, that, in a circuit 
 of three miles round Dorchester, they reckon above forty 
 thousand head of oxen and sheep. 
 
 My Lord Charles Stuart, duke of Richmond, superin- 
 tends the government of the county of Dorset, in the ca- 
 pacity of governor and lieutenant. Dorchester is the 
 residence of the sheriff, a royal minister ; and, every three 
 months, the judges and deputies of the parliament and of 
 the county come thither. These together compose the 
 judicature, after the same form as is universally adopted 
 in each of the fifty-two counties into which the kingdom 
 is divided, for the expediting both of civil and criminal 
 affairs; such as appeals, &c. &c. ; the common jurisdic- 
 tion of the place being in the hands of its own magistracy, 
 over which the mayor presides. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 1 1th, his highness depart- 
 ed from Dorchester, convoyed by a great many horse-sol- 
 diers belonging to the militia of the county, to secure him 
 from robbers, from which this district is not free. The 
 country is uneven, the greater part pasture land, with a 
 prodigious number of sheep, and the rest under the 
 plough. We halted for rather more than half an hour 
 at a small country inn. Twelve miles from Dorchester, 
 
148 
 
 we came to Blandford, a little town of four thousand 
 souls, situated in a small valley watered by the river 
 Stour ; and as he passed through, his highness was salut- 
 ed by the ringing of bells, which piece of respect was 
 shewed at all the places we met with on the road. The 
 whole of this day's journey was thirty miles; and at the 
 distance of about six miles from Salisbury, we entered 
 the county of Wilts, of which that city is the capital. 
 Four miles from the city, a letter was given to Colonel 
 Gascoyne, from the Earl of Pembroke, Philip Herbert, 
 who offered his highness the use of his house at Wilton, 
 three miles from Salisbury, and begged the colonel to use 
 his interest to obtain him this honour. He therefore told 
 the messenger to follow him to Salisbury, where he should 
 have an answer. His highness found the earl at the inn, 
 with my Lord Herbert, his son, who, not having been 
 able to obtain the honour of lodging his highness, invited 
 him to dinner the following morning, which invitation 
 was accepted. His highness walked about for a long 
 time, conversing with him ; and soon afterwards, other 
 gentlemen of the county having arrived, he entertained 
 them all in the same room, as if it had been a private 
 drawing-room, rather than a hall of audience. These 
 being dismissed, the mayor arrived with his aldermen and 
 
149 
 
 bailiffs, to congratulate his highness on his arrival* They 
 were preceded by the mace-bearers as usual ; one of whom, 
 on a large ball of silver, bore a royal crown, gilt, with a 
 cross on the top : their dress differed but little from those 
 of Exeter. After this compHment, during which the 
 mayor alone was covered, his highness took a walk 
 through the city, and then retired. The same evening 
 Giles Lidyat, formerly a merchant at Leghorn, came to 
 make his obeisance to him. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 12th, my Lord Pembroke 
 and my Lord Herbert came with their equipage to fetch his 
 highness. Mr. Bernard New, sheriff of the county, with 
 his son, were along with them. His highness got into 
 the coach with the first mentioned, and the others follow- 
 ing on horseback, he went to see that celebrated piece of 
 antiquity, six miles distant from Salisbury, called Stoix^- 
 henge, supposed to be a sepulchre or a trophy. It con- 
 sists of very large stones, some of which are thirty feet 
 or more in height, and ten in breadth ; these being placed 
 one upon another in three rows in the form of a crown, are 
 crossed by other stones in such a manner that the connec- 
 tion amongst them is not discernible, whence it has the 
 appearance of a hanging building. Having alighted 
 there, they conversed nearly an hour; and then re-entering 
 
the carriage, went to Wilton, the country house of the 
 Earl of Pembroke, situated in the neighbourhood of a 
 small village of the same name. Here his highness re- 
 turned the visit of a young unmarried daughter of the 
 earl (another being married to the Baron Paulet) and 
 dined. There was prepared for his highness, at the head 
 of the table, an arm-chair, which he insisted upon the 
 young lady*s taking ; upon which the earl instantly drew 
 forward another similar one, in which the serene prince 
 sat, in the highest place ; all the rest sitting upon stools. 
 His highness obliged the earl to take the place nearest to 
 him, though in his own house ; and there were at table, 
 besides all his highness's gentlemen, the sheriff and several 
 other gentlemen, in all sixteen. The dinner was superb, 
 and served in a noble style ; they remained at table about 
 two hours. In the course of the afternoon, his highness 
 went down into the garden, and entertained himself a 
 long time in conversation with the earl alone ; and as it 
 was nearly sun-set, he walked about the garden, through the 
 centre of which flows a river called the Nadder, which 
 passes under a bridge on a level with the ground, and pro- 
 duces trout in abundance. His highness went to see the 
 grotto, rough-cast with pumice stone and cockle shells ; 
 several fountains that play in different ways j some rooms 
 
151 
 
 newly built, as well for pleasure as .for the convenience of a 
 foundry; and the maze park, and whatever else of the plea- 
 surable and agreeable the nature and character of the coun- 
 try affords. He then went to view the rest of the palace, 
 which is richly ornamented with many pictures of Van- 
 dyke; and as evening now drew near, went back to Salis- 
 bury, accompanied by the same persons who had attended 
 him in the morning. His highness there understood that 
 a great number of ladies of the province were assembled 
 at the house of a lady, a widow of the family of Piatt, who 
 said that they intended to come and see his highness sup ; 
 he therefore caused it to be signified to them, that, with- 
 out taking that trouble, he would visit them at the place 
 where they were. This he did, and passed half an hour in 
 their company, standing; during which time, two of them 
 sang an English air very indifferently — the fault either 
 of the music, or of the singers. Having taken leave of 
 them, he returned home, retiring at his usual hour. 
 
 On the 13th, his highness sent the steward of his house- 
 hold to return thanks to the mayor ; and afterwards went 
 to see the cathedral church, where Dr. Brideoake, the dean, 
 officiated, with another canon. This church is situated in 
 a spacious meadow, the pleasantness of which is augment- 
 ed by several rows of large elms, disposed with much 
 
1^0 
 
 judgment. At one end, in the stone facade, there are 
 three doors, besides others at the sides ; these correspond, 
 both in situation and proportion, with the three aisles 
 within, which are divided from each other by quadran- 
 gular stone pillars ; these serve as a support to other simi- 
 lar pillars placed against each angle, and made equally 
 of Irish marble, called Kilkenny-marble, not unlike the 
 granite of Spain. These being equi-distant from the 
 two sides of the church respectively, leave an open space 
 for the middle aisle (which is two hundred and fourteen 
 paces long) and for the two smaller aisles on each side. 
 Arches rest upon these pillars, supporting a noble gallery, 
 divided by small, but numerous, pillars of the same Irish 
 marble, which, running round, encircles all the interior of 
 the building ; and between it and the roof, which is very 
 light and airy, are the windows, which give abundant light 
 to the whole edifice in every direction. Where the two 
 smaller aisles terminate, and the church is divided by a 
 transept of the same breadth, and takes the form of a cross, 
 four large arches are raised upon four lofty pilastres, which 
 not only support the roof (from this place to the altar 
 painted alfresco with representations of different saints) 
 but serve as a basis to the belfry, which, rising from 
 the roof, continues for half its height in a quadrangular 
 
1^ 
 
 form, and terminates in a spire. In front of the principal 
 aisle, when you have passed the place where the transepts 
 branch out, the choir occupies a part of the greater aisle^ 
 and is separated from the rest of the church by a wall, 
 which runs round it as far as where the altar is placed ; 
 this yet retains some paintings, in which the nameof Goiy 
 is written in Hebrew characters. The prebendal stalls 
 are distributed along the choir, and on the Gospel-side is^ 
 a tabernacle where the bishop, when he assists at the 
 service, sits, in the proper habit of his dignity, according 
 to the English mode. The altar is covered with purple 
 velvet, and on the table is placed a cushion of the same, 
 on which rests the book of the Anglican Liturgy, and on 
 each side is a candlestick of brass. The building of this^ 
 church was begun in 1217, by Bishop Poor ; the ancient 
 and elevated situation where stood the church formerly 
 founded by Saint Osmund, bishop, in the year 1099^ 
 being then quitted. The body of that saint was brought 
 hither, and reposes behind the altar, under a large flat 
 stone of black marble. The city was rebuilt at the foot 
 of the hill, and in the space of forty years was com- 
 pleted. Although the architecture of the church is gothic 
 in all its parts, yet it is magnificent and sumJ)tuous, and 
 is considered, with reason, one of the most beautiful tern- 
 
J54 
 
 pies in England. They say that the windows, which light 
 it, correspond in number with the days of the year, the 
 small marble pillars with the hours of a whole year, and 
 the doors with the twelve months. Many monuments of 
 illustrious men adorn the interior of the building ; among 
 which are those of two natural sons of King Henry I., 
 which were removed hither from Old Salisbury ; on them 
 are engraved the Imperial Eagles, with the arms of the 
 Earls of Sandwich. In the smaller aisle, on the Epistle- 
 side, is a remarkable monument of the old Duke of So- 
 merset, Earl of Hertford and Baron Beauchamp, of the 
 family of Seymour, Duke of Somerset, who resides in the 
 county of Wilts, as the king's lieutenant ; neither is the 
 one on the opposite side inferior to it, being that of the 
 Baron of Dundalk, of the family of Gorges of Gloucester, 
 which is established in Salisbury, and is descended from the 
 house of Russel ; that of the Earl of Bedford, of the aforesaid 
 noble house of Russel, which was honoured with that title 
 by King Edward VI., is also worthy of notice. There are 
 many statues and images of saints, but the first of these are 
 broken and almost demolished, and the second defaced by 
 the Protector Cromwell, who favoured the sect of the Inde- 
 pendents. This bishoprick has an annual revenue of two 
 thousand pounds sterling ; the present bishop is Doctor 
 
155 
 
 Seth Ward, who was translated from the see of Exeter to 
 that of Salisbury. The choir consists of six canons, the 
 archdeacon and the dean ; each of these has his distinct 
 prebend, which is worth to some, two hundred, and to 
 others, three hundred pounds sterling per annum. The 
 dress of the bishop differs in no respect from that which 
 is worn by the other bishops of England. That of the 
 canons is a hood of black silk, which has two long folds, 
 depending from the neck in front, and falling behind into 
 a sort of half cope. That of the dean, however (who has 
 the first dignity) is somewhat different, as he wears a red 
 hood or gown. Having seen every thing curious in the 
 church, his highness was accompanied home by the dean 
 and the canon, who had assisted him in the service. 
 
 Salisbury, now the capital of the county of Wilts or 
 Wilton, is celebrated, first, for the general convocation 
 which William I. held there, of the different orders of the 
 kingdom, after he had completed the circuit of all En** 
 gland, which he made after the expulsion of King 
 Harold ; and secondly, for the before-mentioned won- 
 derful pile, which stands to the north of it, called Salisbury 
 Stones, of which various accounts are given ; it being be- 
 lieved by some to have been erected by the skill of Merlinf^ 
 the famous mathematician, at the desire of Ambrosius 
 
 XS 
 
3^6 
 
 Aurelianus, in memory of the defeat which the Britons 
 here experienced, through the perfidy of the ancient 
 Saxons ; others again think that it was erected by his 
 brother Uther, to give more celebrity to the tomb of the 
 same Ambrosius, and that it was in place of the ancient 
 Sabiauy which is in a more elevated situation, one mile 
 distant^, It is built at the foot of the hills, in order to 
 protect it from the winds, on the rivers Aun and Nadder; 
 these being diverted from their natural course, run in se- 
 veral channels through the city, traversing the streets, 
 ^nd form several islands, which are made into gardens, 
 and rendered fruitful by industry and the vicinity of the 
 water. The church, and the square, in which is the town- 
 house, bear away the palm amongst the most remarka;ble 
 things which it contains ; the other buildings being, both 
 in point of materials and structure, like those of the othe^ 
 cities of England. It is a well-frequented place, and 
 abounds with every thing, both from its trade, and frotn 
 the convenience of its situation. It is estimated to con- 
 tain above sixteen thousand inhabitants. 
 'v Intending to sleep that night at Basingstoke, his high- 
 ness departed for that place, and travelling through an 
 open and desolate country, took refreshment at the small 
 village of Sutton j then continuing his journey through a 
 
157 
 
 -country chiefly devoted to pasture, and in some parts 
 woody, he discovered, two miles from Basingstoke, a troop 
 of horse consisting of fifty-four men, excellently mounted 
 of the royal regiment of my Lord Aubry de Vere, Earl of 
 Oxford, commanded by his lieutenant. They came by 
 the king's orders, to attend upon and be at the disposal of 
 his highness, as was intimated to him by the commander, 
 who, dismounting, came up to the carriage. His high- 
 ness in reply, accepted only a small party, whom he sent 
 to meet the baggage, and dismissed the rest. He then 
 alighted to examine the military more closely, inspecting 
 every file of the company, the officers of which wore a 
 red sash, with gold tassels. This regiment of the Earl of 
 Oxford is composed of eight companies of seventy men 
 each ; they receive from the king half a ducat a day, this 
 is paid them every two months, which being of twenty- 
 eight days each, they have seven payments annually. In 
 each of these companies the colonel has the privilege of 
 keeping two places vacant, and of appropriating the emo- 
 lument to himself, which amounts to more than fourteen 
 pounds sterling every week. > 
 
 His highness having arrived early at Basingstoke, 
 walked on foot through the town, which is wretched, both 
 in regard to the buildings, the greater part of which are 
 
158, 
 
 of wood, and the total absence of trade ; so that the gra- 
 tification of his curiosity did not compensate for the fa- 
 tigue of walking even a few paces. Whilst his highness 
 was viewing the church, which is a small and very indif- 
 ferent building, the mayor and two other officers came 
 with the insignia of magistracy, to wait upon him ; but his 
 highness civilly declined this public demonstration of re- 
 spect. aiOii , 
 
 On the morning of the 14th, which was Palm Sunday, 
 his highness attended at the Benediction, and after he 
 had privately heard mass, with his suite, every thing was 
 arranged for his departure for Egham. The whole troop 
 was in readiness to march with his highness, but he ac- 
 cepted only the same convoy as before, which was useful 
 for the security of the baggage, refusing all the rest, as 
 serving no other purpose than to display the formality of 
 a public reception. Nevertheless they all insisted upon 
 accompanying him out of the district, where, having halt- 
 ed, they took leave after two salutes. We travelled 
 fourteen miles through a country nearly level, and entirely 
 open, appropriated to pasturage, as is all the rest of the 
 territory of Hampshire, through which we passed, and 
 dined at Okested, a small village. In the evening, we 
 reached Egham ; this also is rather a village than a town. 
 
X 
 
 Xs 
 
 
 
159 
 
 Before we arrived there, we v met, three miles off, two 
 carriages and four coming from London, in one of which 
 was Terriesi and Ferroni, and in the other, the son of 
 Peter Vandeput, a Flemish merchant. These persons 
 paid' their respects to his highness, at the door of his car- 
 riage, and re-entering their own, followed in his train. A 
 mile farther on, we met my Lord Howard, of Norfolk, 
 in an equipage with six horses, along with his brothers, 
 Edward and Bernard. His highness alighted, and, hav- 
 ing received their compliments, re-entered his coach, and 
 continued his journey, followed by the said noblemen, who 
 took into their carriage those gentlemen of his highnesses 
 suite, who were not in his own. Having reached his 
 quarters at an early hour, he conversed a long time with 
 the Messrs. Howard, Henry Nevil, and Somerset, who was 
 appointed gentleman of the bed-chamber to the grand 
 duke, and Wiborne, his cousin, both of whom came along 
 with the resident, Salvetti. Having thus passed the day, 
 and part of the evening, they all withdrew; his highness re- 
 tiring as usual after supper, and all the noblemen above- 
 mentioned, and the gentlemen of his retinue. Terriesi 
 alone, and those who came with him, returned to London 
 the same evening. 
 
 On the 15th, having heard mass, his highness dis- 
 
160 
 
 missed Messrs. Somerset, Wiborne, and Salvetti ; aild 
 entered his carriage with my Lord Howard, his brother 
 Edward, and Mr. Nevil, all the other gentlemen following 
 in different carriages ; and having crossed a wooden bridge 
 over the Thames, which is here very shallow, a mile from 
 Egham, they went to see the villa of my Lord Henry 
 Percy, Earl of Northumberland (whose family boasts 
 that it derives its origin from the ancient Earls of Bragante) 
 called Sion, which was formerly, before the separation of 
 England from the Church, a monastery of nuns of Saint 
 Bridget, called Mount Sion. It is now converted into a 
 spacious and commodious palace, having a great many 
 rooms on a floor, after the Italian manner, and numerous 
 galleries. The outside is entirely of flint stone, but yet 
 without any superfluity of ornament ; within the circuit 
 of the exterior walls, is inclosed a very large meadow 
 which serves as a court ; the parterres and pleasure* 
 grounds, after the English manner, are not wanting, and 
 extend as far as the Thames, which has the appearance 
 of a canal running through the gardens. The modern 
 building is new and not yet finished ; on the roof there 
 is a very fine walk, covered with plates of lead. 
 
 Thence resuming our journey through the same sort 
 of country as that which we had lately travelled, level, 
 

 I 
 
 t 
 
161 
 
 open, and full of villages and houses, we arrived at 
 Brentford, which is half a mile from the villa, and eleven 
 from Egham. Brentford is a very large village, through 
 which the river Thames formerly ran. His highness dined 
 in company with all the gentlemen who had been to wait 
 upon him ; and a very great number of people, men, 
 women, and whoever were curious enough to come, were 
 allowed to enter the dining-room. After dinner, his 
 highness wished all his retinue to proceed to London, re- 
 taining only the noblemen, and a few others ; it was for 
 the Sfike of entering quite incog, that he desired all these 
 gentlemen to set out before him for London, which they 
 accordingly did. Soon afterwards, my Lord Mandeville, 
 gentleman of the bed-chamber, and son of my Lord Ed- 
 ward, Earl of Manchester, Lord Chamberlain, arrived 
 with two of his majesty's carriages, and five of the royal 
 servants, to congratulate his highness in the name of the 
 king, on his safe arrival, and requesting him to make use 
 of the royal palace of Somerset House, the usual habita- 
 tion of the queen mother, Henrietta Maria of Bourbon, 
 her majesty herself offering to lend it to his highness. 
 The serene prince returned thanks, but declined it under 
 the pretext of the practice he had hitherto adopted, and 
 meant every where to adopt, in order to the preservation 
 
162 
 
 of his incog. This gentleman was acconipanied by his 
 brother ; he was received, on leaving his carriage, by the 
 Marquis Giiadagni, at the head of the stairs by Signor 
 Dante, and without the threshold of the audience chamber 
 by his highness himself, in whose presence he was seated 
 and covered. At his departure, he was attended by the 
 same persons to the same places, where he had been re- 
 ceived on his arrival. My Lord Henry Mordaunt, Earl 
 of Peterborough, now first gentleman of the bed-chamber 
 of the Duke of York, who arrived with compliments on 
 the part of his lord, received the same attention. 
 
 After the departure of the latter, his highness set out 
 for London, which is not more than seven miles distant; the 
 Signors Dante, Bernardino, Gascoyne, and Paul Falco- 
 nieri were with him in the carriage, and behind it was 
 Major Andrews ; Plat, and a single adjutant, were with 
 the luggage, and a servant behind the carriage ; after 
 which followed immediately that of the noblemen. In 
 this manner his highness entered London, having passed 
 over the whole tract of seven miles, which, after leaving 
 Brentford, is truly delicious from the abundance of well- 
 built villas and country-houses, which are seen in every 
 direction. Without the city, a numerous crowd of people 
 were assembled, on foot, in carriages, and on horseback, 
 
163 
 
 to see him pass. Before the gate of St. James's Palace, 
 the usual guard were on parade. About two hours before 
 sun-set, his highness ahghted at the house of my Lord 
 Henry Germain, Earl of Saint Albans, chamberlain to 
 the queen mother, which had been prepared for him by 
 Colonel Gascoyne. At the door he foimd waiting to re- 
 ceive him, Mr. Henry Germain, first equerry to the Duke 
 of York, who, in the absence of his uncle, officiated as 
 master of the house, attending him up stairs ; and 
 having, soon afterwards, taken leave, Sir William Killi- 
 grew, vice-chamberlain of the reigning queen, Catherina 
 of Braganza, Infanta of Portugal, and Mr. Henry Powel, 
 servant of the duchess, Anne Hide, eldest daughter of my 
 Lord Edward, Earl of Clarendon, grand chancellor of 
 England, came without loss of time to congratulate his 
 highness. As they both came on the part of their mis- 
 tresses, they were treated in the same manner as the two 
 who came to Brentford from the king and the duke. The 
 same evening, the secretary of legation of the Venetian am- 
 bassador came to congratulate him in the name of his 
 excellency, but his highness having already retired, he 
 was put off till the following morning. 
 
 On the morning of the 16th, the person sent by the 
 Venetian ambassador came again, and was admitted ; he 
 
 Y it 
 
164 
 
 requested permission for his excellency to pay his respects 
 to his highness ; the latter, in the evening, returned the 
 compliment, through the Marquis Guadagni, who, alleg- 
 ing the necessity under which his highness lay, of first 
 paying his respects to their majesties, deferred the inter- 
 view till after his audience at the palace, and stating what 
 had been his practice elsewhere, in regard to his incog., 
 insinuated that his highness would have no objection to 
 seeing him in a third place ; that same evening Signor 
 Magalotti stated the same to the ambassador of France, 
 in return to a similar compliment paid to his highness, 
 through the medium of one of the gentlemen of his suite, 
 and added that his highness was impatient to pay his ho- 
 mage to the ambassador's lady, for he could not signify it 
 to the ambassadress herself, in consequence of her being 
 from home. There came to congratulate his highness, 
 my Lord Ashley Cooper, Baron Ashley; my Lord Henry 
 Bennet, Baron Arlington, secretary of state to his ma- 
 jesty ; my Lord Henry Howard, with his brothers, Ber- 
 nard and Edward ; my Lord Philip Howard, brother of 
 the above-mentioned, grand almoner to the queen ; my 
 Lord Aubry de Vere, Earl of Oxford; my Lord Dutton 
 Gerard; my Lord Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland ; 
 my Lord Robert Spencer, Earl of Sunderland ; and Sir 
 
165 
 
 Theodore de Vaux. To these acts of respectful homage 
 paid by these gentlemen, his highness replied in the most 
 gracious manner ; and thus he passed the day without 
 leaving the house. 
 
 On the 17th also, his highness was engaged at home, 
 attending mass in the morning, and after dinner hearing 
 the service, which, from its being Wednesday in the 
 Holy Week, was recited in a room on the ground-floor 
 set apart for the sacred offices ; all his attendants being 
 likewise present. The remainder of the day was employed 
 in receiving complimentary visits from many persons, who 
 came to present themselves to his highness. These were 
 my Lord William Howard, Earl of Stafford ; Sir Joseph 
 Williamson, equerry and under secretary to the king ; Sir 
 Ducie ; and Mr. Deram. 
 
 So little punctual or anxious was the person who had 
 the care of providing his highness's dresses, that he could 
 not go out till the 18th. In the morning, all the offices 
 prescribed and ordered by the church for Maunday- 
 Thursday, were performed in the presence of his highness 
 and all his court, and the most Holy Sacrament was 
 placed in the sepulchre, for which accommodation was made 
 in a suitable place by itself, and decently ornamented ; 
 and when his highness had finished his spiritual exercises, 
 
S-. 
 
 166 
 
 the hour at which he intended to be present at the most 
 Holy Sacrament, was signified to each of his family indi- 
 vidually, that it might not remain without the veneration 
 due to it. After dinner the service was celebrated in the 
 same form and manner as on the preceding day. In the 
 evening, the Marquis Guadagni was sent with proper com* 
 pliments to the Spanish ambassador, in return for those 
 which his excellency had sent by one of his gentlemen, in 
 the same manner as. the French and Venetian ambassa- 
 dors had done. There came to pay their respects to his 
 highness, my Lord Richard Vaughan, son of the Earl of 
 Cajjji^ry, president of the principality of Wales; my Lord 
 Cavendish, Earl of Devonshire ; Mr. Edmund Walleri 
 equerry to the king; Sir J. Williamson; Captain Faulis; 
 the Abbe Prignani ; and Cooper ; and Wright, two cele- 
 brated painters of London, whose works are in the highest 
 degree of estimation, both in and out of the kingdom. 
 
 ,.0n the morning of the 19th, the whole family of his 
 highness was dressed in clothes of the same colour as the 
 English, his highness alone being in mourning, in cour 
 sequence j>fvth^ death of the most serene archduchess, 
 Maria Magdalena of Inspruck. On Good Friday, the 
 usual offices were celebrated, at which his highness was 
 present with all his court, and when the service was over^ 
 
167 
 
 he returned to his apartment, and received Henry Saville, 
 who came to pay homage to him, and afterwards caused 
 the table to be spread for dinner. The service was not 
 this day performed as on the two preceding days, his high- 
 ness having gone with only Signor Dante and Colonel 
 Gascoyne, to an audience of his majesty, which had beeni 
 requested that morning, by Signor Dante, of my Lord 
 Montagu, Earl of Manchester, great chamberlain of the 
 king, and fixed for after dinner at three o'clock (according- 
 to the English style) by his majesty himself, who made 
 the said Signor Dante go into the lottery chamber, where 
 his majesty then was. His highness was received without 
 the garden gate by the Earl of Manchester, and accom- 
 panied by the same up a small and secret stair-case, and 
 ititro'dticed into the closet where his majesty waited for hirrt^ 
 He welcomed his excellency with a most courteous em- 
 brace, a reception demonstrative of cordiality and especial 
 regard, and not common to all persons of quality, but 
 reserved only for great and allied princes ; others being 
 only admitted to kiss his hand. When the audience, 
 which lasted about an hour, was over, his highness was 
 conducted to the royal chapel of St. James, where ser- 
 vice was celebrating, accompanied with music, at which 
 the queen was present; and his highness stood privately 
 
168 
 
 at a glass-window in the apartment of my Lord Philip 
 Howard, grand almoner to her majesty ; he afterwards 
 returned home. 
 
 The offices and sacred benedictions proper for Easter 
 Eve, having been performed at home on the 20th, his 
 highness went to St. James's, stationing himself in the 
 same place as on the preceding day, to see those which 
 were there performed by the religious, appointed for the 
 service of the queen's chapel. This is a small church, 
 comprehended within the royal palace of St. James, not 
 very remote from the other palace of Whitehall, with 
 which it communicates by means of a large park enclosed 
 on every side by a wall, and containing a long, straight, 
 and spacious walk, intended for the amusement of the 
 Mall, on each side of which grow large elms, whose shade 
 render the promenade in that place, in summer, infinitely 
 pleasant and agreeable ; close to it is a canal of nearly 
 the same length, on which are several species of aquatic 
 birds, brought up and rendered domestic — the work 
 of the Protector Cromwell; the rest of the park is left 
 uncultivated, and forms a wood for the retreat of deer and 
 other quadrupeds. The church in question is situated in 
 a, remote part of the palace, on the left hand in respect to 
 the principal entrance ; it cannot boast any exterior ap- 
 
pearance or show, and to get arit/ yoii miist pass from 
 the court into a small passage, at the end of which is a 
 door, opening into a small court, which connects the 
 apartments of my Lord Philip Howard, grand almoner 
 to the queen, with the church. At the entrance of the 
 church are two lateral chapels, of which that oh the'righi; i^ 
 dedicated to the most blessed Virgin, and in it her ma- 
 jesty recites the rosary on holidays, when she is present 
 at divine service. Over the door, in the middle of the 
 wall, which rises from the floor as high as the cieling, is 
 a glass window, where her majesty stands, whenever she 
 comes from the palace of Whitehall, her usual residence, 
 to the chape], to be present at mass or vespers. In the 
 inside of the church there is only one altar, which stands 
 in front, and is richly adorned. Upon it, in a pix, covered 
 with a canopy of the usual colour, is kept the most holy 
 Sacrament, and on the top of this is the cro^i; there is 
 no other painting or image. In this church the queen 
 enjoys the free exercise of the Catholic religion, which 
 was granted to her in the stipulation made and confirmed 
 on occasion of the marriage treaty concluded through 
 the medium of Don Francisco de Milo, Count de Ponte, 
 and Marquis di Sande, ambassador extraordinary of Por-' 
 tugal, betwixt his king, Don Alfonso VI., and his Britan-* 
 
170 
 
 nic majesty, in the year 1672; and a great number of 
 masses are celebrated daily for the convenience of the 
 Catholics, who resort thither. Some Portuguese Capuchin 
 Friars perform the daily service of the chapel ; there are 
 eleven of them in all, who live in a small convent, built 
 at her majesty's expense, and attached to the church. 
 Besides these, there are six English Benedictine Monks, 
 two Portuguese preachers, her majesty's confessor. Father 
 Antonio Fernandez, three almoners, viz. Bishop Russel, 
 Father Patrick and Father Emanuel Pereira, and Doctor 
 Thomas Godden, treasurer of the chapel ; all of whom, 
 together with the musicians and others belonging to the 
 chapel, are under the superintendance of my Lord Philip, 
 grand almoner, who was honoured by the king, and in 
 virtue of this office, with the title of my Lord. He alone 
 is permitted to walk through the streets of London in the 
 ecclesiastical habit of an Abb6, for which he has obtained 
 a dispensation, although he is a religious of the order of 
 Saint Dominic ; the others, laying aside their religious 
 habits when they walk through the city, wear the dress 
 of seculars. All these persons are obhged to assist at 
 the service of the chapel when her majesty is present, 
 particularly on the holidays prescribed by the church, 
 both at mass and at vespers ; these are sung in the upper 
 
171 
 
 choir, by the Capuchin Friars, and very frequently by the 
 musicians of the chapel, who are all Italians, their master 
 being Matthew Battaglia, of Bologna ; all the religious 
 before-named being present in the church, and arranged 
 round the altar on benches, both on the Epistle and Gos- 
 pel-side. The grand almoner also has his seat there, 
 which is an elevated one, and on which he sits clothed 
 with the rocket, gown and stole. 
 
 The service being finished, his highness returned home, 
 whither there came to compliment him, my Lord Jacob 
 Scott, Duke of Monmouth, captain of his majesty's body 
 guard, a gentleman possessed of many rare and singular 
 qualities, and on this and other accounts, in great esteem 
 and favor with his majesty. After dinner his highness 
 went with my Lord Howard to see some villas and gardens 
 near to Hyde Park, and then returned home. The gen- 
 tlemen of his highness's suite went in the evening to make 
 their obeisance to his majesty, who saw them in the cham- 
 ber of the Winds, as he returned from the Duke of York's 
 apartments to his own. His majesty manifested par- 
 ticular pleasure at this act of respectful homage, and 
 consequently did not permit them to kiss his hand. 
 
 On the 21st, being Easter-day, the altar being arranged 
 m the room set apart as a chapel, and suitably ornament- 
 
172 
 
 ed, and every thing which was necessary for the service 
 being prepared beforehand, his highness heard mass, and 
 at the conchision of it, communicated, and after his high- 
 ness, all his family. This act of devotion being over, his 
 highness went immediately to St. James's, to his usual 
 post, and heard mass sung; at which, in the public church, 
 before the high altar, the queen received the communion 
 with her Catholic servants. At the end of the service, 
 Signor Dante went to arrange an audience with her ma- 
 jesty, and it was fixed for the same day at three o'clock. 
 In the mean time, his highness returned home, and began 
 
 jjthis day to keep an open table, which was served with the 
 most exquisite and royal munificence, by the care of the 
 
 JVI^rquis Philip Corsini, his highness's carver. There 
 were present, my Lord Robert Bertie, Earl of Lindsey, 
 grand chamberlain of the kingdom of England (which 
 dignity, after the reign of King Henry I., was for a long 
 time possessed hereditarily by the Earls of Oxford, and 
 has now passed, by right of succession, to the Earl of 
 
 liLindsey, as being descended from a daughter who was 
 heiress of all the honors of the family) ; my Lord John 
 Granville, Earl of Bath, first gentleman of the bed- 
 chamber to the king ; my Lord William Petre, Baron 
 Petre ; my Lord Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham ; 
 
173 
 
 and Major Freeman. After dinner, at the appointed hour, 
 his highness went to his audience of the queen, in the 
 same form as had been observed on Wednesday at that 
 of the king, and was conducted to it from the apartments 
 of Sir WilHam Killegrew, vice-chamberlain. Her majesty 
 rieC^ived him in her bed-chamber, in which were some few 
 ladies of honour, and the king himself. They conversed 
 near an hour, and afterwards walked in St. James's Park, 
 whence they returned home, as night was now coming 
 on. This same evening, two gentlemen of his highness's 
 retinue went to pay their respects to her majesty the 
 queen, who, following the example of the king, did not 
 permit them to kiss her hand. 
 
 On the 22nd, his highness, having first heard mass, went 
 out to begin to view the city, and the most remarkable 
 things contained in it. He took with him, Signors Cas- 
 tiglioni and Gascoyne, with only a single lackey, a form 
 which he determined to continue for the future in order 
 to preserve his incog, more strictly ; and having rode 
 through London, he returned home ; and there were at 
 his highness' house, my Lord James Butler, Duke of 
 Ormond, lord steward of the king's household, who was 
 also vice-roy of Ireland ; my Lord Andover, son of the 
 Earl of Berkshire ; my Lord Edward Montague, Earl of 
 
174 
 
 Manchester; my Lord Baltimore; and Sir Gouldrie. 
 
 Signor Dante went the same morning to arrange an 
 audience with the duke, which was fixed for after dinner 
 at four o'clock. As soon as he had dined, he took mea- 
 sures to have his audience in the evening, with the duchess, 
 but finding her indisposed, it was fixed for the day follow- 
 ing, at three, in case her indisposition should not oblige 
 her to send notice to the contrary. His highness, therefore, 
 waited upon the duke, and then walked in Hyde Park, 
 where were the king and queen. His highness went in 
 a carriage and pair, that he might avoid, by this delicate 
 caution, every appearance of publicity. Hyde Park is a 
 large and spacious meadow, in which many carriages of 
 ladies and gentlemen assemble in the evening, to enjoy 
 the agreeableness of the place ; which, however, was 
 greatly diminished by the Protector Cromwell, who, in 
 order to render the vicinity of London more open, cut 
 down the elms which were planted there in rows. The 
 king and queen are often there, and the duke and 
 duchess, towards whom, at the first meeting, and no more, 
 all persons shew the usual marks of respect, which are 
 afterwards omitted, although they should chance to meet 
 again ever so often, every one being at full liberty, and 
 under no restraint whatever ; and to prevent the confu- 
 
175 
 
 sion and disorder, which might arise from the great num- 
 ber of lackies and footmen, these are not permitted to 
 enter Hyde Park, but stop at the gate waiting for their 
 masters. 
 
 Immediately on leaving home, on the 23rd, his high- 
 ness went to the Tower of London, where, as his coming ; 
 was unexpected, he was not received with the usual ce- 
 remonies. The Tower of London is a castle, situated to 
 the eastward, on the bank of the Thames, surrounded by 
 a wall, ornamented with other round towers, furnished with 
 artillery, and distributed round it; it formerly, in the 
 time of the schism, served as a prison for Catholics of con- 
 sideration, and even now, persons of high rank are confined 
 there for crimes against the state. It is also encompassed 
 by a wide ditch and ramparts. In a part elevated some- 
 what above the level of the ground, and guarded by sol- 
 diers who are in garrison there, is the entrance. Beneath 
 it is a large arsenal for keeping cannon, two of which, of 
 bronze, of excellent workmanship, and cast as long since 
 as the time of Queen Elizabeth, were furbishing up, by 
 the king's orders, to be sent as a present to the king of 
 Fez, on occasion of the Earl of Arundel's embassy to that 
 court. They shew, as things of great value, the crown, 
 the sceptre, and the globe studded with gems and the most 
 
precious stones, which the kings use at their coronation ; 
 and they are all preserved, along with certain other silver 
 vessels, in a chest, secured by a strong grate. In the 
 lower inclosure of the castle, besides the many houses 
 built there for the dwellings of the officers and soldiers of 
 the garrison, and of other artificers, is the mint, in which 
 the gold and silver money is coined. Those of gold are 
 the Jacobus, introduced by King James, of inferior value 
 to the pound sterling, which is an imaginary coin, of 
 twenty shilhngs value, a shilling being equal, in Floren- 
 tine money, to two quilo ; those of silver, are the ducat, 
 value five shillings, the half-shilling, and the third of the 
 shilling, called groat ; which coins may in truth be said 
 to be better made and executed than any that are current 
 elsewhere, so that they are with difficulty adulterated or 
 diminished in weight. The inferior coin, called farthings, 
 are, for the most part, of brass and copper, and these are 
 hot struck by the public, but by the heads of the wards of 
 the city, who have the privilege of doing it, and therefore 
 they can only be circulated in the district of their respec- 
 tive wards. The tower also contains the armoury, in which 
 various sorts of arms are preserved, but they are neither 
 very numerous nor very valuable; among these are some 
 of Henry VIII., of the Duk€ of Lancaster, and of the 
 
Ii77 
 
 Earl of Suffolk. Adjoining the castle, is the menagerie 
 for beasts, very small and without any beauty of structure. 
 From the tower his highness returned home, where my 
 Lord John, Earl of Lauderdale, secretary of state, came 
 Xo compliment him ; also my Lord Basil Fielding, Earl 
 of Denbigh ; Colonel Napier; and Mr. Brown, eldest 
 son of my Lord Francis Brown, Viscount Montagu. To- 
 day, his highness entertained at his table the Duke of 
 Monmouth and Henry Germain ; and afterwards was 
 conducted by the Signors Dante and Colonel Gascoyne, at 
 the appointed hour, to visit the Duchess of York. Thence 
 he went to the accustomed walk in Hyde Park ; and, in 
 the evening, for the first time, to Whitehall, to the queen's 
 cabinet, where the king was the whole time, and a great 
 part of it, the Duke of York also, with whom (after 
 talking with the queen) his highness conversed. 
 
 That chamber of the queen's apartments, which is con- 
 tiguous to the bed-chamber, is called the closet ; it is fur- 
 nished with sky blue damask, corresponding with the 
 other, with divisions of gold lace ; it is lighted up in the 
 evening by chandeliers, which are suspended from the 
 roof; and is then used as a place of amusement for their 
 ■majesties, and therefore they go into it every evening 
 (unless particularly prevented) from the other apartments. 
 
 A A 
 
178 
 
 The queen sits in front of the door, and enters into con- 
 versation with the ladies that happen to be there, who 
 form a circle round her majesty, standing, and discourse 
 on different subjects. The ambassadresses are very often 
 ^present. The ladies of the other ministers, resident at 
 this court, and more frequently than any other, the wife 
 -of the envoy of Portugal, Habreu, as she is of the same 
 country with her majesty ; neither was the entertainment 
 confined to the ladies, but gentlemen were admitted, both 
 natives and foreigners (besides the representatives of so- 
 vereign princes) without any other formality than a re- 
 spectful obeisance to their majesties. The king himself 
 and the duke are frequently seen there, seeking relief from 
 more weighty cares, and divesting themselves awhile of 
 the restraint of royalty; sometimes standing, sometimes 
 walking through the apartment, they make themselves 
 •familiar with every one, talking indifferently both to the 
 public ministers and the private gentlemen, of the news of 
 the day, and on any other subject, provided it be uncon- 
 nected with business and state-affairs ; those topics being 
 always reserved for a proper and seasonable time. 
 
 In this closet, in order to lessen the formality practised 
 
 at other courts, and also on account of the incog., which 
 
 .he wished to be observed inviolably, his highness appeared 
 
179" 
 
 at different times as in the third place, according to his 
 agreement with Monsieur Colbert, ambassador of France; 
 with the Count di MoHna, ambassador of Spain; with the 
 ambassador of Venice, Mocenigo; the resident of Sweden,. 
 Brachman ; and the envoy of Portugal, Habreu ; who 
 were the ministers resident, at that time, at the court of 
 England, where was also expected shortly, the arrival of 
 the resident of the States of Holland. 
 
 His highness, in order to begin with the things most 
 remarkable in the buildings of the city, went on the 24th, 
 to see St. Paul's Church, or rather, what remained of that 
 famous temple from the fire which lately destroyed a great 
 part of the city. This church, according to report, was 
 built by King Ethelbert, out of the ruins of an ancient 
 fortress, situated at the west of the city ; and in the year 
 1086, having been considerably damaged by fire, was 
 restored by Bishop Maurice. Of this stupendous fabric, 
 there is nothing now to contemplate, except the vestiges 
 of its ancient magnificence, as only the principal walls 
 (which mark the extensiveness of the building) are stand- 
 ing, together with the remains of the roof, of the larger 
 nave, and of the pilasters which support it, and which se- 
 parated the larger nave from the smaller ones, which lat- 
 ter yielded to the violence of the fire ; and one sees only, 
 
 A A < 
 
180 
 
 ah Tiuge heap of stones, cemented together by the lead, 
 with which the church was covered; this, when melted, 
 fell amongst the ruins, which have entirely covered there- 
 lies of antiquity that were there formerly, and demolished 
 many splendid monuments, both of Catholic bishops and 
 other distinguished men, of which scarcely any trace is to 
 be seen. In the front, where the principal entrance used 
 to be, there remains, not indeed uninjured, but still in a 
 state of greater preservation than any other part of the 
 building, the gallery built by King Charles I. (as is learned 
 from the inscription on the frieze) ornamented with stones 
 worked with great perfection and symmetry, according to 
 the rules of the Corinthian order. The interstices are di- 
 vided by fluted pillars of stone, resting on well-propor- 
 tioned bases, and round their capitals runs the architrave 
 and cornice, of a proper size ; over which rises an un- 
 covered balcony, after the same order, differing therein 
 from the ancient part of the building, which inclines to 
 the gothic, as does the greater part of the churches of the 
 kingdom ; wherefore, except the said gallery, there remains 
 nothing with which curiosity can satisfy itself, except the 
 ideas which you acquire of the nobleness, and the orna- 
 ments, of that vast fabric, and of the wonderful height of 
 the tower, which, in the part where the temple took the 
 
form of a cross, rose oa four strong arches, placed on foui' 
 pilastres larger than the rest, to the height (as they say) 
 of above five hundred and thirty feet, having a spire co- 
 vered with lead, which in the year 1087, William I., 
 being then the reigning king, was struck down by light- 
 ning, and never rebuilt The present king, that the me- 
 mory of this temple may not be lost, has resolved to re- 
 store it ; not indeed to place it again in its primitive and 
 magnificent condition, which could not be accomplished 
 but at an immense expense, but to render it fit for the 
 worship of the Anglican sect, and sufficiently capacious 
 to contain the people ; and to effect this, he has obliged 
 all those who are in possession of the bishopricks, and 
 dignities of the church of England, to contribute a cer- 
 tain sum, assessed in proportion to the ecclesiastical pa- 
 trimony they enjoy ; so that the church also may be re- 
 paired, as well as the houses which were destroyed by the 
 fire. They had already begun the undertaking, many 
 persons being at work at that time, occupied only in the 
 demolition and destruction of the lateral walls, in order to 
 reduce them to the proportion of the new design. 
 
 Thence his highness went to Westminster, to see the other 
 magnificent church of St. Peter, built, as they say, by Sige- 
 bert, king of the Eastern Saxons, and restored, after it had 
 
182 
 
 been destroyed by the Danes, by Bishop Dunstan. This 
 church, together with the monastery built there by King 
 Edward the Saint, was granted, in the year 1066, with the 
 title of Abbey, to the Monks of St. Benedict ; but it was 
 afterwards pulled down by King Henry III., in 1 226, and 
 rebuilt in a more noble form, in the space of fifty years^ 
 Its greatest ornament consists in the vast number of its 
 marble pillars, variously arranged; the architecture of the 
 building, which is gothic, is in no respect more remarka- 
 ble than that of other churches built after the same order. 
 The whole of the roof is vaulted ; that of the middle aisle 
 is the most Open, liut^ it has not, on that account, more 
 light than is necessary. Having passed the middle of the 
 church, where it stretches out its two arms, and separates 
 into the form 6f d <^f o^s, a wall extends across, which joins 
 the two pilasters, on which rests the arch of the body of 
 the church ; the entrance into this is by a door, which is 
 kept locked by one of the k^eper^ of the church, and 
 without his assistance, no one can enter. At the very en- 
 trance, is the tomb in which reposes the body of the King, 
 Saint Edward ; it is elevated above the ground, and 
 worked in Mosaic, and his name is written upon it in 
 characters of gold ; but there now remains of it only the 
 urn with its square basement; the figures in low and high 
 
relief, with which it was formerly ornamented round about, 
 having been taken away, and broken in pieces. There is 
 to be seen here a seat obtained by conquest from the kings 
 of Scotland, made of wood, after the ancient fashion, in 
 which the kings of England sit when they are crowned 
 in this church ; and under it is placed, a stone, being, acr 
 cording to tradition, the same on which Jacob slept when 
 he had in a dream, the vision of the ladder, on which 
 the angels ascen(Je4 ?^n^.4fi§ciBn4ed,^ ,TJ^is inclosure con- 
 tains (besides the chapel of King Henry VII., in the 
 centre of which stands the tomb of that king, and of the 
 queen his wife, whose statues, made of bronze, are ^eeiyi, 
 lying upon the tomb, surrounded by other pieces of work- 
 manship, and figures, likewise of bronze) the monument 
 of the Duke of Richmond, on which stands the image of 
 Fame, with four other statues of bronze placed at the four 
 corners ; and that of the Duke of Buckingham, also of 
 bronze, situated on the opposite side ; it is rather low^r 
 than the other. Nor are those less worthy of remark, which 
 were erected by King James, to Queen Elizabeth and to 
 Maria Stuart: they are both built of the finest marble, with 
 figures in basso relievo, lying as it were on a bed, on the 
 four sides of which rise four pillars, supporting a canopy, 
 or roof to the tomb. Remarkable also for their antiquity, 
 
184 
 
 are the tombs of many great lords of the kingdom, and 
 those of several kings after William I., Duke of Nor- 
 mandy, and afterwards Conqueror of England (from whom 
 is derived the title which his successors still retain, King 
 of France) who also possessed Jersey and Guernsey 
 islands, adjacent to that dukedom. Annexed to the church 
 is the cloister, round which runs an open gallery ; and it 
 contains various monuments to the memory of subjects 
 buried there, distinguished both for birth and learning. 
 
 From the church of Westminster, his highness re- 
 turned home, where my Lord Henry Somerset, Marquis 
 of Worcester, father of the Duke of Somerset, who had 
 been made chamberlain to the most serene grand duke, 
 along with another of his sons ; my Lord Charles Stuart, 
 Duke of Richmond ; my Lord James Cecil, Earl of Sa- 
 lisbury ; Sir Philip Howard, one of the captains of the 
 guard ; Mr. Daniel, son of Sir Heneage Finch, Baronet, 
 solicitor and procurator general to the king ; Captain 
 Stuart, governor of Dover ; Mr. Skelton, son of the go- 
 vernor of Plymouth; and Edmond Wylde, Esquire; came 
 lo pay their respects to him, and some of these staid din- 
 ner with his highness. This day, the Marquis Guadagni 
 was sent to Prince Robert, to return the compliment paid 
 'in the morning to the serene prince through one of his se- 
 
cretaries, who presented himself to his highness as he was 
 stepping into his carriage. The said Prince Robert is 
 son of the Prince Frederic, Elector Palatine of the Rhine, 
 and of Princess Elizabeth, sister of King Charles L, and 
 brother of the present Elector, Charles Louis, and there- 
 fore considered, in the court of England, as a prince of 
 the blood; and, having signalized himself in different 
 actions, both by land and sea, as a general of cavalry 
 and an admiral, he has been rewarded by the king, besides 
 having an annual pension of four thousand pounds ster- 
 ling, with the title of Earl of Holderness and Duke of 
 Cumberland, when the male line of the family of Clif- 
 ford fails. His highness went out in the course of the 
 day, and began his visits to the ladies, principally the 
 wives of those who had been to pay their respects to him ; 
 visiting the Countess of Arundel, mother of my Lord 
 Howard and his brothers ; the Duchess of Monmouth ; 
 the Countess of Devonshire ; and my Lady Arlington. 
 
 On the morning of the ^5th, his highness having heard 
 mass, received Sir Charles Cotterel, master of the cere- 
 monies, who, with his son, came to pay him the homage 
 
 of their respect; and likewise gave audience to Sir 
 
 Chapel, who came for the same purpose of compliment- 
 ing his highness. He afterwards went, in his carriage, 
 
 BB 
 
186 
 
 with his usual retinue, to Arundel House, in the interior o£ 
 Gresham College, given by Henry Howard, of Norfolk, 
 for the sittings of the Academy, or Royal Society, which 
 meets every Thursday after dinner, to take cognizance of 
 matters of natural philosophy, and for the study and ex- 
 amination of chemical, mechanical, and mathematical 
 subjects. 
 
 V This Royal Academy took its origin from some phi- 
 losophers of London, and was restored in the reign of 
 King Charles II. ; who (besides his own inclination) in 
 order to encourage the genius of men of quality (who, at 
 the time that there was no court in this kingdom, applied 
 themselves diligently to such studies) established and con- 
 firmed it ; making himself in fact its founder, by granting 
 it the most ample privileges, which are recorded in a book 
 ratified by the King, the Duke of York, and Prince Robert. 
 This institution is governed by a council, consisting 
 of twenty members, elected out of the whole body of 
 the society ; the head of which is the president, at pre- 
 sent the Earl of Brounker, who, sitting on a seat in the 
 middle of the table of the assembly, has a large silver 
 mace, with the royal arms, lying before him, with which 
 k is customary for the mace-bearer, or the porter of the 
 academy, to walk before him. Persons of every nation 
 
arid religion, and profession, are admitted among the aca- 
 demicians, and they are under no other obligation than to 
 swjesir to the observance of the statutes, and to attend the 
 meetings as often as is in their power ; especially those for 
 the election of officers, to promote its interests, and not 
 to do any thing to its prejudice. At their meetings, no 
 precedence or distinction of place is observed, except by 
 the president and secretary ; the first is in the middle of 
 the table, and the latter at the head of it, on his left 
 hand, the other academicians taking their seats indifFer^ 
 ently on benches of wood with backs to them, arranged 
 in two rows ; and if any one enters unexpectedly, after 
 the meeting has begun, every one remains seated, nor is 
 his salutation, rjeturned, except by the president alone, 
 who acknowledges it by an inclination of the head, that 
 he may not interrupt the person who is speaking on the 
 subject or experiment proposed by the secretary. They 
 observe the ceremony of speaking to the president un«c 
 covered, waiting from him for permission to be covered, 
 ^nd explaining their sentiments in few words, relative to 
 the subject under discussion ; and, to avoid confusion and 
 disorder, one does not begin before the other has ended 
 his speech; neither are opposite opinions maintained with 
 obstinacy, but with temper, the language of civility and 
 
 BBS 
 
188 
 
 moderation being always adopted amongst them, which 
 renders them so much the more praiseworthy, as they are 
 a society composed of persons of different nations. It has 
 for its coat of arms, a field of silver, denoting a blank tablet, 
 ^j}liY^pe4 with the moptp 'f Nullius in verba," to shew that 
 they do not suffer themselves to be induced by passion 
 and prejudice, to 'follow any particular opinions. The 
 t^Jjjnpt, ,wh^]),i§j||n^?r,J:)3u^ of Doctoj;. Robert Hook, 
 
 a man of genius, and of much esteem in experimental 
 matters, was founded by Daniel Colwal, now treasurer of 
 tl^e, academy, and is. full of the greatest rarities, brought 
 from the most distant parts ; such as quadrupeds, birds, 
 fishes, serpents, insects, shells, feathers, seeds, minerals, 
 <and many petrifactions, mummies, and giims ; and every 
 day, in order to enrich it still more, the academicians con- 
 tribute every thing of value which comes into their hands, 
 so that in time it will be the most beautiful, the largest 
 and the most curious, in respect to natural productions, 
 that is any where to be found. Amongst these curiosi- 
 ties, the most remarkable are an ostrich, whose yoimg were 
 always born alive ; an herb which grew in the stomach of 
 a thrush ; and the skii^ pf ,a moor, tanned, with the beard 
 and hair white ; but more worthy of observation than all 
 the rest, is a clock, whose movements are derived from the 
 
189 
 
 vicinity of a loadstone, and it is so adjusted as to discover 
 the distance of countries, at sea, by the longitude. Towards 
 this, the planets or satellites of Jupiter, are of great ser- 
 vice, by the observation of whose eclipses (these succeed- 
 ing one another almost every day) tliey are studying to 
 find out a method of forming astronomical tables, in 
 order to discover the true meridians of the earth ; for the 
 different meridians will be shewn by the different hours 
 at which they will happen, when observed at different 
 places, beginning from the east, and proceeding westward. 
 The academy has a library (giv^ afed by tt^' toi*d* 
 Henry Howard, and continually increasing in the num-* 
 ber of its books) for the convenience of the academicians, 
 and particularly of the two professors, who are to live in 
 the said college (as soon as the fund from which their sti- 
 pend is to be paid, can be arranged) in the apartments 
 preparing for that purpose, distinct from the halls and 
 chambers appropriated to the meeting and to the council; 
 and it is to be their duty to refer to the society, all liifBi-^ 
 jects on which their opinion shall be required, and to col- 
 lect the philosophical and mechanical experiments from 
 the authors who shall be discussed, in ordef to facillffdtef life ' 
 discovery of truth. The council of the society, at that 
 time, composed of William, Viscount Brounker, Presi* 
 
1^0 
 
 dent ; William Aikin, Esquire, my Lord William Brere- 
 ^BtaF, my Lord George Berkeley, Doctor Timothy Clerk^ 
 Daniel Colval, Esquire, the Bishop of Chester, the pliy-? 
 sicians, WilUam Crown and Jonathan Goddard, John 
 Evelyn, Esquire, Sir George Ent, Baron Henry Howard 
 of Norfolk, Sir Robert Moray, Sir Paul Neile, Thomas 
 Hensham, Walter Pope, physician, Henry Oldenburg^ 
 Edward, Earl of Sandwich, the Bishop of Salisbury, Sir 
 Theodore de Vaux, and Sir Gilbert Talbot, all elective 
 counsellors, who, as occasion may require, assemble to- 
 gethief ifi'thi^ chamber called the Council Chamber, and 
 inake such resolutions as the good government of this 
 collection of virtuosi may require. 
 
 • About mid-day, his highness returned home, and dined 
 as usual. After dinner, he recommenced his visits to the 
 ladies ; going towards evening to the King's Theatre, to 
 hear the comedy, in his majesty's box. This theatre is 
 nearly of a circular form, surrounded, in the inside, by 
 boxes separated from each other, and divided into sevei* 
 ral rows of seats, for the greater accommodation of the 
 ladies and gentlemen, who, in conformity with the free- 
 dom of the country, sit together indiscriminately ; a large 
 *pace being left on the ground-floor for the rest of the 
 audience. The scenery is very lighty capable of a great 
 
191 
 
 iftany changes, and embellished with beautiful landscapesl 
 Before the comedy begins, that the audience may not be 
 tired with waiting, the most delightful symphonies are 
 played ; on which account many persons come early to 
 enjoy this agreeable amusement. The comedies which 
 are acted, are in prose ; but their plots are confused, nei- 
 ther unity nor regularity being observed ; the authors 
 having in view, rather than any thing else,.to 4escribe ac- 
 curately the passions of the mind, the virtues and th^ 
 vices ; and they succeed the better, the more the players 
 themselves, who are excellent, assist them with action, and 
 with the enunciation of their language, which is very well 
 adapted for the purpose, as being a variation, but very 
 tnuch confined and curtailed, of the Teutonic idiom ; and 
 enriched with many phrases and words of the most beau- 
 tiful and expressive description, taken both from ancient 
 find modern languages. From the theatre, his highnesiS 
 returned home, and retiring to his apartment, supped 
 ^loue, . , , . 
 
 - His highness passed the following morning (the 26th) 
 in hearing mass, and in giving audience to my Lord John 
 Berkeley, Baron Berkeley ; my Lord Richard Saville, Earl 
 of Dorset ; Doctor Jacob Molin ; my Lord Henry Mor- 
 daunt, Earl of Peterborough; Sir Heneage Finch, Baro-^ 
 
net, Solicitor-general to tHe king; and Sir Duval, 
 
 equerry to the Duchess of York ; and the tables being spread, 
 his highness dined in public, as usual, my Lord Berkeley," 
 the Earl of Peterborough, and the Earl of Dorset, re- 
 maining to dinner. After dinner, his highness went out 
 in his carriage, to pay his visits to the ladies ; shewing him- 
 self, when it grew late, in Hyde Park, and in the evening 
 at the palace in the Queen's closet, and returning home at 
 a proper hour, retired according to custom. 
 
 On the 27th and 28th, several gentlemen visited his 
 highness ; amongst these, my Lord George Saville, Vis- 
 count Halifax ; my Lord Philip Herbert, Earl of Pem- 
 broke; Sir Richard Jones ; Sir Langhorn; Viscount 
 
 Brounker ; my Lord Blaney ; Sir Sydney, son of 
 
 the Earl of Leicester, and Sir Sedley, and some of 
 
 these staid to dine with his highness, who sat at the head 
 of the table ; the rest sitting indiscriminately round it, at 
 a little distance from his highness, as had been always the 
 custom. On these days, his highness went in his carriage, 
 through the city, and again made visits to the ladies ; ap- 
 pearing in the evening at the closet, and at the apartments 
 of the Duchess of York. 
 
 Part of the morning of the 29th was spent by his high- 
 ness at home, there coming to pay their court to him, my 
 
193 
 
 I^ord Annesley, Earl of Anglesea ; my Lord Hinchin- 
 brook, son of the Earl of Sandwich; and my Lord Henry 
 Pierpoint, Marquis of Dorchester; which ceremony. Jjeing 
 over, he took the opportunity of going out in his carriage 
 to make a short tour through the city, and returning 
 home at mid-day, dined as usual. After dinner, having 
 received previous intimation of the coming of the Duke of 
 York to visit him, and exchange compliments, his high- 
 ness went down stairs with his attendants, to be ready for 
 his royal highness's arrival, who, having alighted from his 
 carriage, along with two of his gentlemen, was received by 
 the serene prince, at a little distance from the door of the 
 house, and their highnesses' gentlemen going first, in order 
 to pay their court properly, ascended the staircase. In 
 ascending the stairs, as well as at the entratice, the most 
 delicate respect and politeness was observed ; the prince 
 turning towards the duke, and when they reached the top, 
 they entered the drawing-room, where all the gentlemen 
 bemg drawn up, bowed as they passed to his serene 
 highness's apartment, where they remained in conversa- 
 tion for a considerable time, walking up and down. 
 On departing, the duke wished not to allow the prince 
 to go beyond the door of the drawing-room, but his high- 
 ness, not permitting so polite an indulgence, observed the 
 
 cc 
 
sattt^'e^^f^iironj^ M descending the stairs, as he had don6 
 in ascending, and accompanied his royal highness out of 
 the door of the house, and remained there, though the 
 diike was very repugnant to it, till the carriage drove off. 
 It was followed by some horse soldiers of his royal high- 
 hess's body guards, armed with carabines and pistols, 
 exactly in the same order that they had observed in com- 
 tA^; and this is done whenever he goes through the 
 city. 
 
 > On the morning of the 30th, after hearing mass, his 
 highness gave audience to Sir John Trevor, secretary of 
 Stat^, and one of the king's privy council, to Sir Hugh 
 
 Coralley, Sir Hanmer, and Sir Walter, who 
 
 came to compliment him ; and having passed some time 
 m (Conversation with Henry Nevil, rode out in his car- 
 riage, and went to court ; whence, returning home, he 
 dined as usual. This day, his highness went to the co- 
 medy at the Duke of York's theatre, where the music and 
 dancing, after the English manner, were less pleasing 
 than the operas performed by the comedians ; because, 
 beiiig in the English language, the only pleasure which 
 we who heard them, can derive from the latter, is that 
 of observing their action, which it cannot be denied, was 
 Supereminently excellent. In the evening, his high- 
 
ness supped alone, leaving his attendants at liberty as 
 usual. 
 
 On the 4th of May, and the two subsequent days, his 
 highness received the compliments of my Lord Edward 
 Montague, of the son of my Lord Baptist Noel, Viscount 
 Camden, of Sir Thomas Barret, Sir Robert Royle, Sir 
 
 Midelton, Sir Francis Slingsby, superintendant of 
 
 the Mint, Sir Thomas Allen, Admiral Sprack, Vice-Admi- 
 
 ral Gordon, Sir Stroud, governor of Dover Castle, 
 
 my Lord Howard, of Norfolk, with two of his sons, my 
 Lord Lauderdale and his son, my Lord Croftes, my Lord 
 Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex, the EarLof Morland, the 
 Marquis of Blancfort, nephew of Marshal Turenne, Sir 
 
 Vaughan, gentleman of the bed-chamber <;o the 
 
 Duke of York, and Sir Jacob Hamilton, gentleman of 
 the bed-chamber to his majesty ; and many of them re- 
 mained to dine with his highness, who continued on each 
 of these days his visits to the ladies, appearing at Hyde 
 Park, at the comedies, sometimes at the king's theatre, 
 sometimes at that of the duke's, and always in the evening 
 at court, in the queen's closet, and at the apartments of 
 the Duchess of York, that he might not omit any oppor- 
 tunity which presented itself, of shewing his respect to their 
 majesties and their royal highnesses. 
 
 CCS 
 
196 
 
 On the evening of the 3rd, his highness had the con- 
 descension to see a woman of twenty-three years of age, 
 who .was said to be a native of Bois-le-duc, of an extra- 
 ordinary and almost gigantic stature. She came from 
 Holland to England, was then in London, and being 
 considered a wonderful sight, was brought as such to 
 present herself to his highness. On the same evening, 
 the Duke of York caused it to be signified to his highness, 
 that he intended to go the following morning to Green- 
 wich, to see some ships lately built, and that, if his high- 
 ness should have any curiosity to sail upon the Thames, 
 to see the banks of the river between that place and Lon- 
 don (which, from the abundance of villas with which they 
 are ornamented, are more pleasant and agreeable than 
 betwixt Greenwich and Gravesend, which is situated nearer 
 to the mouth of the river, and where little else but chalk- 
 pits are to be seen) he should be happy to take this oppor- 
 tunity to accompany his serene highness. The latter tes- 
 tified his deep sense of the favor of the invitation, by re- 
 plying that he should be ready to avail himself of the 
 Luke's politeness. 
 
 His highness, rising in good time on the 4th, imme- 
 diately heard mass, and went to the palace, to the king's 
 apartments ; and whilst he stood there, waiting for the 
 
197 
 
 Duke of York, the king came out. His highness saluted 
 his majesty, who returned it with his accustomed kind- 
 ness and attention, and said, that, as the weather was so 
 favorable, he would himself be of the party ; accordingly 
 having gone down to the river, they began to sail down 
 the Thames towards Greenwich ; and all that space was 
 crowded with ships of large size,Nand of every description ; 
 of these, it is said, that there are more than one thousand 
 four hundred betwixt Gravesend and London Bridge, a 
 distance of twenty miles (higher than London Bridge they 
 cannot go, although the tide extends thirty miles or more 
 above the city) to which are added the other smaller ships 
 and boats, almost without number, which are passing and 
 repassing incessantly, and with which the river is covered ; 
 for in the neighbourhood of Greenwich there are large 
 docks for ship-building, at which an incredible number 
 of persons of every age and size, are continually working; 
 so that, when in addition to these, the individuals who 
 inhabit the ships, vessels, and boats, are taken into con- 
 sideration, the assertion which is often made in London, 
 does not appear improbable, viz. that more than six hun- 
 dred thousand persons sleep on the water ; and hence it 
 is, that they endeavour to substantiate the accounts of the 
 population of the city as compared with that of Paris : 
 
198 
 
 the English being persilafl^d that their metropolis is su^ 
 perior in that respect ; whereas, in fact, there is reason 
 to believe that it is very inferior. 
 
 Greenwich (which is situated on the left bank of the 
 river with respect to London) is so called from the royal 
 palace built by Humphrey, Duke of Gloucester, and en- 
 larged by King Henry VII., in which Queen Elizabeth 
 tvas born, who, when she came to the throne, added to it 
 with the adjoining convent of Saint Francis deW osser- 
 vanza, which she appropriated to the profane uses of the 
 court : it is used as the queen's country residence, and, at 
 no great distance, the king has caused a new house to be 
 erected. 
 
 When dinner-time came, the tables were laid out in 
 the yacht, and his majesty made his highness and the 
 duke of York sit beside him, having the grace also to 
 send for and admit at his table Signor Castiglione, Signor 
 Bernardino Gascoyne, and the other gentlemen who at- 
 tended upon his highness and upon the Duke of York. 
 When dinner was over, before rising from table, his ma- 
 jesty and their highnesses engaged in conversation; and 
 having seen every thing that was worthy of notice at 
 Greenwich, they returned in good time to London ; the 
 king and the duke going to Whitehall, and his highness, 
 
199 
 
 who had been abundantly gratified with the very poHte 
 and distinguished treatment shewn him by the king, went 
 to his own house, where he heard that my Lord Germain 
 had been to pay his compliments to him. In the evening 
 his highness went to the queen's closet, where he was re- 
 ceived by her majesty with her usual courtesy, and hav- 
 ing spent some time there, he went to the apartments of 
 the Duchess of York, and then returned home; and having 
 retired to his.^iamberj supped alone, according to the cus- 
 tom which he had hitherto always observed. 
 
 On the morning of the 5th, having first heard mass, his 
 highness gave audience to my Lord Ashley Coopej^ 
 Baron Ashley, and one of the kiiig's privy counsellors ; to 
 Sir — — Spenser ; to the king's master of the robes, 
 Lawrence Hyde, second son of Edward, Earl of Claren- 
 don, lord chancellor ; to my Lord John Berkeley, Baron 
 
 Berkeley ; to Sir Elias Elighton ; to Sir Brounket, 
 
 brother of Viscount Brounket ; to my Lord Orlando 
 Bridgeman, Baronet, keeper of the seals ; and to my 
 Lord George Villars, Duke of Buckingham, one of the 
 king's privy council ; all of whom came to pay their court 
 to him. He also received Henry Nevil, who frequently 
 appeared to pay his respects to his highness, to whom he 
 was already known, having been at the court of Tuscany, 
 
200 
 
 when on his travels in Italy. The same attention was 
 also shewn by my Lord Philip Howard and his brothers. 
 His highness then went to the queen's chapel at St. 
 James's, and having taken a short ride, returned home 
 at mid-day ; when the Duke of Buckingham, with some 
 of the other gentlemen who had been to visit him, dined 
 with him. After dinner he went out in his carriage to 
 see the city, going as far as Lincoln's-Inn Fields, one of 
 the largest and handsomest squares in London, both in 
 respect to the uniformity and the size of its buildings. Its 
 form is quadrangular, and three sides of it are composed 
 of very beautiful houses ; before each of these is a court, 
 or square, enclosed by a low wall, which, besides taking 
 away the view from the ground-floor, spoils the prospect, 
 and makes the circumference of the square appear less than 
 it is. On the other side is a college, lately built, which 
 takes its name from the square. It contains within its en- 
 closure spacious gardens for walking, in hot weather. He 
 next went to Southampton New Square, which is surround- 
 ed by buildings erected by the late Lord Thomas Wri- 
 othesley, Earl of Southampton, Baron Wriothesley, lord 
 treasurer ; and turning back again, repaired to Hyde 
 Park, which was crowded, as usual, with carriages of 
 ladies and gentlemen ; and, towards the close of the day. 
 
SOI 
 
 alighting at St. James, on his return, he went to Whitehall, 
 to the queen's closet, where his majesty renewed his in- 
 vitation to his highness, to see the horse races. He af- 
 terwards adjourned to the apartments of the Duchess of 
 York, where he remained some time with the duke j and 
 then returning home, supped and retired. 
 
 Every thing that was necessary for his journey to New- 
 market, being arranged, and having heard mass betimes 
 on the morning of the 6th, his highness got into his car- 
 riage, with Colonel Gascoyne and his attendants, followed 
 by other carriages for the convenience of his suite ; and 
 left London for Newmarket, towards which the king set 
 out, the same morning, with the Duke of York, for the 
 sole purpose of shewing his highness the horse races ; an 
 amusement taken by the court several times in the year, 
 great numbers of ladies and gentlemen crowding thither 
 from London and from their country-houses in the neigh-i 
 bourhood. On quitting London, they found many vil- 
 lages and a numerous population; the country afterwards 
 rises into a level plain ; the greater part of which is de- 
 voted more to cow pastures, than to cultivation. On the 
 way to Epping is an open place, belonging to the Bishop-^ 
 ric of London, to which it was given, with other domains^ 
 by King William I. 
 
 D D 
 
202 
 
 , Continuing his journey, after dinner, through a coun- 
 try not very unUke that which he had before travelled 
 over, his highness reached Bishop's Stortford, to supper, a 
 small town in the county of Hertford, situated on the river 
 Stort, which, falling into the Lea which washes the town of 
 Hertford, whence the province takes its name, encreases 
 it with its tributary waters. This place, as well as Epping, 
 belongs to the bishoprick of London, to which it Was given 
 by the same prince. They stopped at the principal inn 
 in the place, and found there every thing necessary for the 
 accommodation of the court ; it being abundantly pro- 
 vided, as indeed are all the other inns in England, with 
 every thing that can be wanted ; the more so, as the land- 
 lady boasts of her relationship by blood to the Protector 
 Cromwell. His highness retired, and supped as usual. 
 
 On the 7th, having heard mass privately, his highness 
 set off, and pursued his journey on horseback, through all 
 that tract of country which lies betwixt Bishop's Stort- 
 ford and Audley End, the celebrated seat of my Lord 
 James Howard, Earl of Suffolk, which title descended to 
 him from Thomas, his grandfather, to whom it was grant- 
 ed by King James, along with the office of lord treasurer 
 of the kingdom. The road, for the most part, was an un- 
 even plain, which near the villa, rises into a gentle emi- 
 
203 
 
 Hence, whence is discovered the palace of Audley End, 
 situated at no great distance from the castle of Ansgar, 
 in the bosom of a beautiful valley, watered by several ri- 
 vulets ; these uniting, form a lake abounding with trout, 
 over which is a bridge of stone. 
 
 Descending into the valley below, by an easy acclivity, 
 we came to a spacious avenue, planted with elms of con- 
 siderable height, which terminated at the mansion. The 
 entrance is into a quadrangular court, whose sides are 
 surrounded by porticoes of stone, which, extending with 
 perfect regularity to the distance of several bowshots, inclose 
 a large meadow. The balustrade which runs round the 
 court, is formed on one side, of the letters which compose 
 the following words : Sapientis est in consilio foriunam 
 semper habere ; and on the other, with those of the motto 
 belonging to the arms of the order of the garter, Ho?ii soit 
 qui mat y pense. The interior of the house consists of 
 many apartments, well proportioned and judiciously dis- 
 posed ; and of a well-lighted gallery, ninety paces or more 
 in length, having a cieling of stucco, adorned with ara- 
 besques, and walls lined with wainscot, which is the cus- 
 tom in all the houses of the English nobility, as a protec- 
 tion against the cold. The architecture of the palace, 
 although it was built only sixty years ago, is nevertheless 
 
 D D 3 
 
204 
 
 not regular, but inclines to the Gothic, mixed with a little 
 of the Doric and Ionic. The materials of which it is com- 
 posed, are brick ; the ornaments of all kinds are splendid, 
 and entirely of stone, and the roof of lead. Upon the roof 
 is a gallery, in the midst of which rises a small cupola, 
 containing a clock, the sound of which proclaims to a 
 great distance, the magnificence of this vast fabric ; and 
 from the top of this is an infinitely diversified prospect of 
 gardens, meadows, hills, woods and vallies, which appear 
 at different distances in the most beautiful points of view. 
 The king is so much delighted with this place, that he is 
 in treaty with the earl for the purchase of it, and they say 
 that some time ago the price was agreed upon, but as it 
 was not paid, the earl still retains possession. When his 
 highness had dined, he determined upon travelling 
 throughout the remainder of the day. The road was 
 level, and therefore the journey was agreeable, and, as far 
 as the face of the coimtry is concerned, delightful. There 
 was an alternation of meadow land for pasture, and of cul- 
 tivated fields ; and, it is easy to see, that this county of 
 Suffolk, enjoys not only a salubrious air, but also a rich 
 and fertile soil ; nor is any thing wanting, which can con- 
 tribute either to pleasure or profit ; hence it is considered 
 the most fruitful and the most agreeable of all the counties 
 
205 
 
 of the kingdom, and such it continued as far as the Hmits 
 which divide the county of Suffolk from that of Cam- 
 bridge (or, as the EngUsh call it, Cambridgeshire) a city 
 which many suppose to have been built by the Romans, 
 and others by the Danes. Having passed the borders, 
 and reached the territory of Cambridge, the country was 
 not very different in point of fertility, from that which we 
 had already passed over; but not so, as to the salubrity of 
 the air, which is less healthy on account of the fens ; 
 these, exhaling perpetual vapours, render the atmosphere 
 dense, and extremely unwholesome. His highness, before 
 evening, reached Newmarket (where, at the inn of the 
 Maidens, almost opposite to the king's house, quarters 
 had been prepared by his highness's courier) at the precise 
 time that his majesty, with the duke and Prince Robert, 
 had arrived the preceding day. They had returned from 
 seeing the city of Ely, which is situated not far off, in a 
 tract of land the most marshy of any in the county, called 
 by the peasants, the Isle of Ely. A monastery was for- 
 merly built there by the Princess Etheldreda, which, besides 
 the endowment assigned to it at its foundation, was after- 
 wards enriched with sundry revenues, by the kings of 
 England, to such an extent that the Abbot Richard, con- 
 sidering the opulence of that monastery, and the impro- 
 
206 
 
 priety of being subject to the Bishop of Lincoln, in order 
 to exempt himself from that obedience, applied to the king 
 tb get the pope's permission for its erection into a cathe- 
 dral; which, being afterwards obtained by King Henry I., 
 Hervey, who had been expelled from his own bishopric 
 bir Bangor, was installed its first bishop. Besides the prin- 
 cipal church, there is little worthy of notice in the city, 
 which, although it is not smaller in size than many others 
 in the kingdom, is yet considered very inferior to most of 
 them, both from the indifference of its buildings, and from 
 its being a place of small resort. 
 
 ^^•' As soon as his highness alighted from his carriage, he 
 went to the king's house, which compared with the other 
 seats of the English nobihty, does not deserve the name of 
 a royal residence ; and, on this account, his majesty has 
 taken measures to enlarge it with several new apartments, 
 and to improve the prospect from it. He made his obei- 
 sance to his majesty, who received him with an unusual 
 degree of kindness, congratulating him on his safe arrival. 
 From the king's apartments, his highness went to those 
 of the Duke of York, to pay his respects to his royal high- 
 ness; and, after reciprocal compliments, returned to his 
 lodgings, supping alone as usual. 
 
 The house which the king at present inhabits at New- 
 
S07 
 
 market, has been purchased by his majesty of my Lord 
 O'Brien, an Irishman, Earl of Thomond, a descendant of 
 the ancient Earls of Thomond, of whose family was Do- 
 nald III., King of Ireland. 
 
 On the morning of the 8th, his highness impatiently 
 endeavoured to get himself exempted from attending the 
 usual religious services, that he might be in good time at 
 the king's house, but found that his majesty had already 
 left Newmarket on foot, to take exercise. On receiving 
 this information, his highness set out in the same manner, 
 with Colonel Gascoyne, Sir Castiglioni, and his at- 
 tendants, in that direction in which he heard that the king 
 had walked. He had not gone many paces, before he met 
 his majesty, who returned home, in a plain and simple 
 country dress, without any finery, but wearing the badges 
 of the order of St. George and of the Garter. His high- 
 ness presented himself to his majesty, and having ex- 
 changed compliments, accompanied him to his residence, 
 where they remained in conversation till the horses were 
 got ready, on which they were to ride out again into the 
 country, to take the diversion of coursing hares, in those 
 open and naked plains. Having spent tU^,xeq?ainder, of 
 the morning in this amusement, they returned at mid- 
 day, each betaking himself to his quarters ; and his high- 
 
208 
 
 ness dined with the gentlemen of his suite. After dinner 
 the king, with the duke and Prince Robert, went on 
 horseback, to a place at a little distance from Newmarket, 
 and amused themselves with the game of tennis, and his 
 highness went out in his carriage in pursuit of the birds 
 called dotterel, which in size and shape resemble a very 
 large lark ; they are, for the most part, of a colour inclin- 
 ing to brown upon the back, and under the belly nearly 
 white. Towards evening, on going back to Newmarket, 
 his highness paid his compliments to the king and duke, 
 and returning home, supped alone, at an early hour. 
 
 The following day, the 9th, the sky appeared lowering 
 and cloudy, and threatened rain, which would prevent 
 the horse-races that were to take place on that day ; but 
 at sun-rise, the clouds partly dispersed, and the king went 
 into the country, and his highness along with him, to 
 renew the diversion of hare hunting ; the great pleasure of 
 which, in this plain county, is, that being entirely free 
 from trees, it leaves to the huntsman the full enjoyment 
 of seeing the animals without interruption, and observing 
 their subtle flight, and frequent deceptions in turning and 
 doubling round and round, passing frequently by the same 
 place, and retracing their steps. After enjoying this re- 
 creation, his highness returned at mid-day, and before 
 
20g 
 
 going to his own quarters, went to those of the king, and 
 the tables being prepared beforehand, there dined with his 
 liighness, my Lord James, Duji,^ irfAoWQl^d, steward of 
 his majesty's household; my Lord George, Duke of 
 Buckingham, master of the horse ; my Lord Edward, 
 Earl of Manchester, chamberlain ; my Lord O'Brien, Ea^l 
 of Thomond; my Lord Germain; the Marquis of Bland- 
 ford ; Bernard Howard of Norfolk ; my Lord William 
 Croftes ; my Lord Francis Newport, Baron Newport; Sir 
 
 , Elliot ; and the gentlemen belonging to his high- 
 
 ness's retinue. At three o'clock, according to the English 
 mode of reckoning, the king and the Duke of York went 
 from Newmarket to see the horse-races, and repaired to 
 the place appropriated to this sport, going to a certain 
 spot which is nearly in the middle of the course, and 
 
 .there his majesty stopped and amused himself with seeing 
 
 fUp^y Lord Blandford and my Lord Germain play at 
 bowls. 
 
 The race-course is a tract of ground in the neighbour- 
 hood of Newmarket, which, extending to the distance of 
 
 . four miles, over a spacious and level meadow covered with 
 very short grass, is marked out by tall wooden posts, 
 painted white. These point out the road that leads di- 
 
 . rectly to the goal, to which they are continued the whole 
 
 E E 
 
210 
 
 way ; they are placed at regular distances from one ano- 
 ther, and the last is distinguished by a flag mounted upon 
 it, to designate the termination of the course. The horses 
 intended for this exercise, in order to render them more 
 swift, are kept always girt, that their bellies may not drop, 
 and thereby interfere with the agility of their movements ; 
 and when the time of the races draws near, they feed them 
 with the greatest care, and very sparingly, giving them, 
 for the most part, in order to keep them in full vigour, 
 beverages composed of soaked bread, and fresh eggs. Two 
 horses only started on this occasion, one belonging to 
 
 Bernard Howard, of Norfolk, and the other to Sir 
 
 Elliot. They left Newmarket saddled in a very simple 
 and light manner, after the English fashion, led by the 
 hand, and at a slow pace, by the men who were to ride 
 them, dressed in taffeta of different colours ; that of 
 Howard being white, and that of Elliot green. When 
 they reached the place where they were to start, they 
 mounted, and loosening the reins, let the horses go, keep- 
 ^ing them in at the beginning, that they might not be too 
 eager at first setting off, and their strength fail them in 
 consequence, at the more important part of the race; and 
 the farther they advanced in the course, the more they 
 urged them, forcing them to continue it at full speed. 
 
When they came to the station where the King and the 
 Duke of York, with some lords and gentlemen of his 
 majesty's court, were waiting on horseback till they should 
 pass, the latter set off after them at the utmost speed, 
 which was scarcely inferior to that of the race-horses ; for 
 the English horses being accustomed to run, can keep up 
 with the racers without difficulty ; and they are frequently 
 trained for this purpose in another race-ground, out of 
 London, situated on a hill, which swells from the plain 
 with so gradual and gentle a rise, that at a distance it 
 cannot be distinguished from a plain ; and there is always 
 a numerous concourse of carriages there to see the races, 
 upon which considerable bets are made. 
 
 Meanwhile, his highness, with his attendants and others 
 of his court, stopping on horseback at a little distance 
 from the goal, rode along the meadows, waiting the 
 arrival of the horses, and of his majesty, who came up 
 close after them, with a numerous train of gentlemen and 
 ladies, who stood so thick on horseback, and galloped 
 so freely, that they were no way inferior to those who had 
 been for years accustomed to the manege. As the king 
 passed, his highness bowed, and immediately turned and 
 followed his majesty to the goal, where trumpets and drums 
 which were in readiness for that purpose, sounded in ap- 
 
 £E S 
 
212 
 
 plause of the conqueror, which was the horse of Sir — — 
 Elhot. From the race-ground his majesty being very 
 much heated, adjourned to his house, accompanied by 
 his highness, and by the greater part of the gentlemen 
 who had come to see the race; and having paid his com- 
 pliments, his highness departed, retiring to his own lodg- 
 ings, that he might leave his majesty at liberty, who having 
 rested a little, went out again on foot, and took a walk 
 through Newmarket, and to a short distance out of the 
 town. His highness did the same, and appeared again 
 at court in the evening. * 
 
 With a view of enjoying the beauty of the country 
 during the fine weather, his highness went with his 
 attendants on the morning of the 10th, from Newmarket 
 to Chippenham, a country-seat of Sir John Russel, of the 
 family of the Earls of Bedford, who is married to my 
 Lady Frances Cromwell, daughter of the late Protector 
 Oliver Cromwell, and sister to the wife of my Lord 
 Thomas Bellasyse, Baron Fauconberg. This lady was 
 first married to the nephew of my Lord Charles Rich, 
 Earl of Warwick, by whom she had no children, he having 
 died shortly after his marriage ; by her second husband 
 she has three children, one son and two daughters. 
 
 This villa stands in a delightful plain, in the midst of 
 
213 
 
 a lawn, which surrounds it on every side; and both with 
 respect to the materials of which it is built, the orna- 
 ments with which it is decorated, and the arrangement 
 of its domestic conveniences, it will bear a comparison 
 with the most distinguished country seats of the principal 
 gentry of the kingdom ; on this account, my Lord James 
 Howard, Earl of Suffolk, has been induced by its situation, 
 by the magnificence of the edifice, and by its vicinity to 
 Newmarket, to purchase it for the sum of twelve thousand 
 pounds ; but till the actual payment of the money, the 
 seller retains the proprietorship and possession. In the 
 lawn belonging to the villa, is a place set apart for bowls, 
 where his highness and the Earl of Thomond played 
 a few games, previous to viewing the mansion ; his 
 highness afterwards went over all the apartments, and 
 found them handsomely furnished, according to the 
 custom of the country. Amongst other things that the 
 house contains, the gallery, which faces the South, is not 
 the least remarkable ; for besides the view which it com- 
 mands from its windows, there is upon the top of it an 
 open promenade, that, being connected with the roof of 
 the house, which is covered with lead, affords on every side 
 a prospect of the surrounding country. His highness 
 had the curiosity to ascend thither, to view through a 
 
214 
 
 telescope the city of Ely, and its cathedral church, which 
 is a most magnificent and conspicuous building. From 
 the upper apartments, his highness descended to a spa- 
 cious room on the ground-floor, and there found the 
 
 wife and sister of Sir Russel, the master of the house, 
 
 who paid their compliments to him, to which his high- 
 ness replied with the greatest politeness; and seats having 
 been prepared, he sate down, and continued his con- 
 versation (in the French language only) with the Lady 
 Cromwell, giving her the place of honour. While 
 they were thus engaged, she presented her two children, 
 one male and the other female, to his highness, who re- 
 ceived them with great affability and kindness. As it was 
 now near noon, his highness took leave, and returned by 
 the way of Newmarket. Before entering the town, he 
 alighted from his carriage, and went on foot with his at- 
 tendants to the king's residence, where he was introduced 
 into his majesty's chamber, who was waiting there till 
 every thing necessary was prepared for the ceremony, which 
 lie is accustomed to perform publicly every Friday, that of 
 touching for the king's evil, according to the ancient 
 usage of the first Catholic kings of England, which was 
 handed down to their successors, continued after the 
 apostacy, and preserved to the time of the present king. 
 
215 
 
 When his majesty was informed that all was ready, he 
 went from his chamber into a room adjoining, where was 
 placed on a table a cushion, on which lay the prayer- 
 book, appointed by the Anglican ritual, for the use of his 
 majesty. As soon as he appeared, and at a signal given 
 by him, the two assistant ministers, dressed in their sur- 
 plices, began the prayers with a great appearance of de- 
 votion ; his highness standing, while they were read, in 
 another room ; from which, when the service was finished> 
 he passed into the room in which those who were afflicted 
 with the King's Evil, were assembled, for the purpose of 
 observing the ceremony, from the side of the door which 
 led into the room. A carpet was spread upon the floor, 
 and upon it was a seat, on which the king seated himself, 
 and certain invocations in the EngUsh language, taken 
 from the prayer-book, having been read by one of the 
 ministers, his majesty began the ceremony of touching 
 the patients in the part affected. These were conducted 
 into the king's presence, one at a time, and as they knelt 
 before him, he touched them with both hjs hands ; after 
 which, without interfering with the others who came after 
 them, each returned to his former situation. This being over, 
 the minister, kneeling with all the bye-standers, the king 
 alone remaining seated, repeated some other prayers; after 
 
me 
 
 which, all rising, the diseased came again in the same order 
 as before, to his majesty, who put round their necks a ribbon 
 of an azure colour; from which was suspended a medallion 
 of gold, stamped with his own image, in shape and weight 
 resembling an Hungarian sequin. The whole ceremony 
 being ended, the king returned to his chamber, and his 
 highness to his quarters, and dined as usual. 
 
 A new horse-race being arranged for to-day, his high- 
 ness determined to go in his carriage, with his attendants, 
 to the place of starting; and there having mounted his 
 horse, he followed with his attendants, at a half gallop, 
 the two race-horses, which were rode by two men drest in 
 taffeta, the one red and the other white, almost as far as 
 the Devil's Ditch, a rampart which was formerly thrown 
 up for the defence of the country, against hostile invasions, 
 but being now cut through, leaves the road free and open ; 
 having there met the king, who was also on horseback, 
 he bowed to him, and his majesty taking off his hat, re- 
 turned the salute with peculiar courtesy; and having con- 
 versed a short time with his highness, continued on his way, 
 his highness remaining there in expectation of two other 
 horses, which were already on their way to the starting 
 place, and behind which the king came up in a canter, with 
 the Duke of York and other lords and gentlemen, who had 
 
217 
 
 come both for the sake of following the court, and for 
 the sake of seeing the race, as well as on account of the 
 bets ; and when they came opposite the post, at which 
 his highness remained on horseback, the latter again sa- 
 luted his majesty as he passed, following him along with 
 his retinue to the goal, whence, on account of being very 
 much heated, wrapping himself up in his cloak, without 
 delay, his majesty went back to Newmarket, to his re- 
 sidence ; and his highness did the same, to pass the re- 
 mainder of the day. The king afterwards went out on 
 foot, without extending his walk far from the village; and 
 his highness, that he might anticipate his majesty's return 
 home, went at a proper time, in the same direction, and 
 accidentally met Prince Robert ; and whilst they were 
 engaged in conversation, his majesty returned, and was 
 accompanied to his residence by his highness, who there 
 took leave of him with every expression of acknowledge- 
 ment for the goodness which his majesty had shewn, over 
 and above the other tokens of his regard, in going from 
 London to Newmarket, on purpose to afford him the 
 amusement of the races. To this, his majesty replied, 
 that the moderation with which his highness desired to 
 be treated on his journies, and the incog, which he de- 
 termined never to dispense with, had obliged his majesty 
 
 F F 
 
218 
 
 to abstain from those public demonstrations which were 
 due to his highness's merits, and that he forbore only in 
 conformity with his express wishes, as otherwise he should 
 have obeyed the impulse of his own inclination, which 
 prompted him to manifest, by every possible form and 
 observance, his pleasure at his highness's visit to the En- 
 glish court ; and after many interchanges of politeness, 
 the prince wished his majesty a good journey, as the 
 latter, on the next day, the 11th (which being the 1st 
 of May according to the old style, is still retained in 
 England, and celebrated as a holiday in Hyde Park, with 
 great festivities, and a vast concourse of people) had re- 
 solved to return to London, and his highness to go to 
 Cambridge, to see that famous University, which was 
 anxiously expecting him, in consequence of the hopes 
 given by the two doctors, who had been expressly sent to 
 Newmarket to invite him. His highness then paid his 
 compliments to the Duke of York, who replied to them 
 with equal sincerity, and afterwards returned home, and 
 supped alone. 
 
 Newmarket, an open town of about two hundred houses, 
 in the county of Cambridge (although some believe it to 
 be in that of Suffolk) is situated on the declivity of some 
 gently rising hills, which inclose a small valley, and con- 
 
219 
 
 stitute a distinguishing feature in the almost level territory 
 which lies in every direction around it. It has, in the 
 present day, been brought into repute by the king, who 
 frequents it on account of the horse-races, having been 
 before celebrated only for the market for victuals, which 
 was held there, and was a very abundant one. In conse- 
 quence of the example set by the king, the buildings are 
 beginning to improve in appearance, and to increase in 
 numbers, to render it more commodious for the purposes 
 of the court, and more capable of containing the persons 
 who resort thither at the time the king is there. The 
 territory belongs to my Lord Henry Bennet, Baron 
 Arlington, who lets it on a twenty-one years' lease, at six 
 shillings an acre, the rent to be paid half-yearly, and the 
 tenant being left at full liberty, either to employ the land 
 for pasture, or to plough it up, or to sub-let it. 
 
 At four o'clock in the morning of the 11th, according 
 to the English mode of reckoning, the king, with the 
 Duke of York, Prince Robert, and the other attendants 
 of his court, departed from Newmarket for London, in 
 very windy and boisterous weather ; and his highness 
 having heard mass, gave audience to my Lords Bland- 
 ford, Thomond, Bernard Howard, and others, who had 
 come to pay their respects to him ; and at seven set off 
 
 F F « 
 
, 220 
 
 in his carriage, with all his suite, for Cambridge, which 
 is eleven miles from Newmarket. The whole of the 
 country for the first five miles was a level plain, and for 
 the most part pasture land ; it then changed into a well- 
 cultivated corn country, divided into fields, surrounded 
 with hedges, and encircled with willows, which, from the 
 humidity of the soil, grow there in great abundance, and 
 so it continued all the way to Cambridge, where his high- 
 ness, on his arrival, went to the Rose Inn. Here prepara- 
 tions had been made by the courier, and we found the 
 streets, through which it was necessary to pass, filled with 
 the populace, and with crowds of scholars, who had col- 
 lected together to see him and welcome his arrival. Scarcely 
 had his highness alighted from his carriage, when the 
 mayor, Nathaniel Crab, with the aldermen, perpetual officers, 
 who to the number of twenty-four, compose the magis- 
 tracy, came to compliment and to greet him. They 
 
 were introduced by Sir Castighoni; and the mayor, 
 
 who alone was desired to be covered, addressed his high- 
 ness in a speech, in the English language, with which the 
 
 latter, through the medium of Sir Waller, who acted 
 
 as interpreter, testified his satisfaction. As soon as the 
 magistrates were gone, there immediately appeared, in 
 grand procession, preceded by the mace- bearers, the 
 
221 
 
 college of the doctors, consisting of fourteen heads of the 
 university, drest in doctors' robes of scarlet cloth, edged 
 with ermines' skin, which was spread round the neck hke 
 that of the large cape of the cardinals' robes, and of some 
 young noblemen who wore gowns of a different colour, 
 with sleeves hanging down to the ground, and gold but- 
 tons and lace; for it is the custom to distinguish noblemen 
 by a more costly habit than the other students. His 
 highness received them graciously, and having heard 
 doctor Edmund Bolders, vice-chancellor for the Earl 
 of Manchester, the chancellor of the university, who 
 entreated him to condescend to honor the academy (public 
 schools) with his presence, replied to his address. Going 
 out shortly afterwards, his highness found the scholar^ 
 ranged in order, in two rows, from the door of the house 
 to the entrance into the court of the academy, dressed in 
 gowns of different colours, according to their several col- 
 leges; his highness passed through them in his way to 
 the academy, where he was received on the outside of the 
 door by the chancellor, accompanied by the heads of the 
 university, in the same dress in which they had to welcome 
 him; the vice-chancellor made, in the name of the uni- 
 versity, a short and elegant Latin speech, to congratulate 
 him on his arrival, and expressive of their general satisfac- 
 
222 
 
 tion. His highness went away escorted by the vice- 
 chancellor and heads of houses, and accompanied more 
 especially by a retinue of the noble scholars, to see the 
 library, in which is a great abundance of books of every 
 description, ancient and modern, kept there for the public 
 use of the professors and scholars. Thence his highness 
 was conducted into the great hall of the university (senate- 
 house) where being seated in the place of honor, at a 
 large table, covered with a carpet, round which were 
 placed at due distances the heads of the university; a short 
 oration was recited by the professor of humanity, in praise 
 of his highness, which, although it was in Latin, yet being 
 pronounced with a peculiar accent, was not less difficult 
 to be understood, than that which followed in the English 
 language. The professor having finished his discourse, 
 that his highness might see the ceremony observed in 
 giving the laurel^ as well as that of the degree of master 
 of arts, as of doctor in the superior sciences, the vice- 
 chancellor, in the proper robes of his office, being seated 
 in the middle, close to the table, with his face towards the 
 hall, began the ceremony, admitting several scholars with- 
 out examination (by virtue of the king's gracious rescript 
 and dispensation, made in compliment to his highness) to 
 the degree of master of arts, and to that of doctor, several 
 
223 
 
 others, who had already the dignity of master, in the 
 manner following: — the individual was presented by the 
 professor of that faculty in which he desired to be pro- 
 moted, to the vice-chancellor, before whom he knelt, with his 
 hands joined together, while the latter repeated the follow- 
 ing words : — " In Dei nomine, amen: Admitto te ad in- 
 cipiendum in artibus, vel in philosophia vel in medicina, 
 in nomine Patris,et Filii,et Spiritus Sancti, amen." — After 
 this, one of the secretaries of the university, who was pre- 
 sent, called to him those who were promoted, saying to 
 them with an audible voice, " Tange librum, determina 
 qusestionem in aure Doctoris ac praesta juramenta ;" and 
 having immediately done what was prescribed to them, 
 each wrote his name in a printed book, which contained 
 the oath of the king s supremacy, and of fidelity or alle- 
 giance; they then received the laurel, one after another, 
 and were invested with the gown belonging to their re- 
 spective degrees. The vice-chancellor, in order to shew 
 his respect for his highness's attendants, wished to place 
 in the number of the Battedratici of the university. 
 Doctor Dornie, physician to his highness, and public 
 reader of medicine at Pisa : this intention had been 
 hinted to him at Newmarket, by the deputies of the 
 university, in consequence of which he had prepared him- 
 
224 
 
 self to return thanks in a scholar-like manner. He was 
 invested with the red gown, which is worn by the public 
 professors of the university, and conducted into the pre- 
 sence of the vice-chancellor; who, having first called upon 
 the name of God, admitted him, by saying, " Recipimus 
 te in numerum nostrum, eo modo quo et apud tuos Bo- 
 nonienses et Pisanos, in nomine Patris, &c." The accus- 
 tomed oath was dispensed with, in consequence of his 
 being a Catholic, and also the premeditated return of 
 thanks, because it had been omitted in the case of all the 
 others who had been promoted to degrees, and also to 
 avoid lengthening the ceremony, and making it tedious to 
 his highness, who, as soon as he was set at liberty, returned 
 and dined with his suite. 
 
 After dinner, his highness, desirous to gratify the vice- 
 phancellor, who entreated him to honor the academy with 
 his presence a second time, went thither with his attend- 
 ants, followed by the vice-chancellor and the heads of the 
 university. In the principal hall, into which his highness 
 was introduced, a short Latin oration was made by one of 
 the professors, which, being pronounced in the same man- 
 ner as that which was spoken in the morning, was little 
 understood, and afterwards his highness was present at 
 different questions, which were propounded for disputa- 
 
225 
 
 tion, and very spiritedly and strenuously opposed by the 
 professors and masters of arts : " De methodo philoso- 
 phandi in experimentis fundata, et contra systema Coper- 
 nicanum." When all was over, a respectful and learned 
 speech of thanks was made by the principal orator, to as- 
 sure his highness of the acknowledgment of the whole 
 university. 
 
 From the academy, the vice-chancellor, the public pro- 
 fessors, and a great number of scholars forming his re- 
 tinue, his highness went to see King's College. As he 
 entered the chapel of the college. Doctor Fleetwood, 
 Doctor of Divinity, the Provost, received him with a Latin 
 compliment, in which he expressed at considerable length 
 the veneration which that college entertained for his high- 
 ness's distinguished qualities. Having seen the chapel 
 (which was formerly dedicated by Henry VI. King of 
 England and France, to the most blessed Virgin and St. 
 Nicholas, and in which, although the architecture is 
 Gothic, the royal magnificence of the prince who erected 
 it is very visible in the nobleness of the decorations) he 
 was attended through the whole of the college ; the apart- 
 ments being shewn to him, and every thing that is worthy 
 of remark in that edifice, either as to its structure, or as 
 
 to what concerns the convenience of the collegians. 
 
 o o 
 
226 
 
 ' This college was founded, and called after St. Nicholas, 
 in the year 1441, by Henry VI. surnamedthe Pious, son 
 of Henry V. and of Catherine, daughter of Charles VI. 
 King of France, in the neighbourhood of the churches of 
 St. John the Baptist and St. Nicholas, and of the hos- 
 pitals of the House of God and St. Augustine, with an 
 endowment sufficient to support a monastery and twelve 
 scholars ; and, two years afterwards, the revenues having 
 been greatly augmented, a chapel was built, with the in- 
 tention of finishing the college in the same style of ar- 
 chitecture and decoration ; but, in consequence of his 
 untimely death, it was left unfinished, and the charge of 
 completing that great edifice devolved upon succeeding 
 kings; accordingly, by his son, Henry VII., it was embel- 
 lished with stone, and a rich pavement of marble being 
 added by King Henry VIH., as far as the materials were 
 concerned, it was completed. Large additional contribu- 
 tions were made at different periods, in augmentation of the 
 royal patrimony which had been assigned to the college at 
 ks foundation, by Roger Goad, Doctor of Divinity (who 
 was brought up there) by the Provost Adam Robins, 
 by Richard Day, and John Cowell, Doctors of Law and 
 Fellows of the College, by Doctor Smith, and William 
 Hanson; so that now a provost, seventy scholars, called fel- 
 
227 
 
 lows, a master of the choristers, six clerks, sixteen officers, 
 and other servants, making in all two hundred and thirty 
 persons, are comfortably maintained in it. 
 
 Thence his highness went to the College of St. John, 
 where, on entering the court, he was met by Doctor Gun- 
 ning, the master, who with the collegians waited to pay 
 Itlieir respects to him ; and a complimentary discourse in 
 Latin having been first pronounced, they accompanied 
 his highness through the halls and apartments most worthy 
 of notice, conducting him into the library, which both in 
 the number and curiosity of its books surpasses that of the 
 university. imr* 
 
 This was first a hospital of Regulars, founded in the 
 year 1134 by Nigellus, second Bishop of Ely; it was 
 changed into a convent of religious by Hugh de Balsham, 
 also Bishop of Ely ; and in the year 1511, the princess 
 Margaret of Richmond (she having obtained permission 
 to that effect from her nephew. King Henry VIII.) or- 
 dered in her will that it should be turned into a college, 
 retaining the same name of St. John the Evangelist ; and 
 charged with the execution of her will, Richard Fox, 
 Bishop of Winchester, John Fisher, Bishop of Rochester, 
 Charles Somerset, Doctor Hubert, and other executors 
 especially deputed by her for that purpose. To this col- 
 
228 
 
 lege, besides the annual income before enjoyed by the 
 convent, many donations have been made, and large 
 estates bequeathed ; but the more considerable benefactors 
 were Cardinal John Morton, Archbishop of Canterbury, 
 countess Ann Brooksbie, Doctors Fell, Bey ton, Ashton, 
 Lupton, Thimblebie, and Thompson, and Catherine, 
 Duchess of Suffolk; so that at present it maintains three 
 hundred and seventy persons, including the fellows, 
 scholars, officers, and servants. 
 
 Nor was the next college which his highness visited less 
 considerable, called Trinity, which in the year 1 546, by the 
 union of the Hall of King Edward the Third, of the house 
 of St. Michael, of that of Henry Stanton, Chancellor of the 
 Exchequer to King Edward the Second, and of that of 
 William Pishwick, was founded and enriched with an 
 annual revenue of one thousand six hundred and forty 
 pounds; it was further augmented by the liberality of 
 King Edward the Sixth, of the Queens Mary and Eliza- 
 beth, and of King James, who twice resided there with 
 his court for the space of three months, causing Prince 
 Charles, his son, to be enrolled in the number of the col- 
 legians; and by the munificence of John Whitgift, Arch- 
 bishop of Canterbury, of Thomas Allen, of Doctors Bell, 
 Beaumont, Stanhope, Barron, and others, who at a great 
 
229 
 
 expense rendered the building more magnificent, the 
 library more extensive, and the revenue more flourishing, 
 by large legacies, feo that it now supports four hundred and 
 sixty-eight persons. His highness surveyed every thing 
 most remarkable in the college, to themagnificenceof which 
 nothing contributes more than the grand square, which 
 takes its name from Thomas Nevill, formerly Dean of Can- 
 terburj'-, and master of the college, who erected and com- 
 pleted it at an expense of seven thousand pounds. The 
 evening coming on, his highness was introduced into the 
 theatre, a room rather small than spacious, where was re- 
 presented by the scholars a Latin comedy, which pleased 
 more by the elegance of the dresses, the ease and grace- 
 fulness of the actors, than by their elocution, which it 
 was very diflicult to understand, without being accustomed 
 to the accent. The story of the comedy was as follows: — 
 A merchant of Nola, whose wife and daughter had been 
 rtade slaves, sent his son to Constantinople to redeem 
 them; but he falling in love by the way with a certain 
 young lady, instead of prosecuting his journey, returned 
 to his father, bringing the girl along with him, and pre- 
 tending that she was his sister, and that his mother was 
 dead. Many years afterwards, another merchant aiTived 
 at Nola, on his return from Constantinople, with letters 
 
230 
 
 from the wife. The truth having thus come out, the father 
 accompUshed their redemption by other means; and when 
 the mother returned to her own country, the son prostrated 
 himself at her feet, and asked pardon for his offence, 
 which she not only granted, but, actuated by maternal 
 tenderness, obtained it also from his father. The comedy 
 concludes, in the midst of rejoicings, with a ball, which 
 was managed with great elegance. 
 
 At his departure his highness was escorted by Dr. 
 Pearson, master of the college, who always accompanied 
 his highness, and also by those collegians who are distin- 
 guished by the names of fellows and scholars, the former 
 having a situation in college as long as they live, and the 
 latter for seven years, during which time they finish their 
 studies in one or other of the faculties. His highness^, dn 
 returning to the inn, retired to his rooms, and supped 
 alone. 
 
 - Cambridge is situated upon the river Cam, which i^ 
 navigable for small boats of burden, and from which it 
 takes its name. The river towards the West forms vari- 
 ous small islands, and towards the East divides the town 
 into two parts, which are united by a bridge. Although 
 it is not a city, but a town, it is nevertheless the most 
 celebrated of all the other towns of the county, to which it 
 
231 
 
 gives name, both for its population and buildings, and is 
 almost looked upon as the capital. It is not walled round 
 at the present day ; and there are scarcely any remains of 
 those ancient walls which surrounded it at the time that 
 it flourished before its devastation in the year of Christ 
 700. The neighbouring country, which spreads over a 
 level plain, is intersected by stagnant and marshy waters, 
 which derogates from the pleasantness and salubrity of 
 the air. The ancient buildings are not much to be admired, 
 either for the beauty of their architecture, or of their ma- 
 terials, the greater part of them being of wood, with an 
 outward facing of brick ; the more modern ones are better. 
 The inhabitants are estimated at upwards of twelve thou- 
 sand, amongst whom are more than two thousand five 
 hundred scholars, who are distributed into sixteen col- 
 leges, and live there, devoting themselves to their studies. 
 With respect to the administration of civil justice, it is 
 superintended by the mayt>r, as head of the magistracy, 
 and by the vice-chancellor, who unite their powers in 
 cases of necessity; but the revision of all civil sentences^ 
 and the trial of criminal causes, is reserved for the assizes, 
 or assembly of judicature, composed of the judges of the 
 Parliament and the deputies of the county, who assemble 
 there every three months. 
 
232 
 
 The university therefore is of greater importance and 
 notoriety than any thing else at Cambridge. It was ori- 
 ginally founded in the year 630, by Si gibert, first Christian 
 king of the Eastern part of England (of the East Angles) 
 who after the example of France, to which he had been 
 banished, wishing to introduce literature into his king- 
 dom, fixed upon Cambridge, and there instituted several 
 schools, for the direction of which, he sent for from abroad 
 the most illustrious professors of those times, both in arts 
 and sciences ; and fixing the principal seat of learning 
 near the bridge, he devoted many hostels and houses to 
 the use of the youth who flocked to his university, for which, 
 besides the privileges granted to it by himself, he obtained 
 from Pope Honorius I. many immunities and exemptions, 
 which were confirmed by his successor. Pope Sergius I. ; 
 and by the help of these it preserved its dignity till the 
 year 1010, t^hen, in consequence of the intestine wars fo- 
 mented by the barons of the kingdom, and the devastation 
 occasioned by the incursions of foreigners, it lost its splen- 
 dour. This it recovered, however, under King Henry I., 
 by means of Gislebert, a monk, who not only opened new 
 schools for the arts, but also for the superior sciences, 
 and particularly for theology; and in after-ages the build- 
 ings, the professorships, and the number of the teachers. 
 
233 
 
 from time to time were augmented by the munificence of 
 different benefactors ; so that the university has now eight 
 public royal professors, who enjoy the honorary title with- 
 out any labour, having also to attend the senate-house at 
 the ceremony of conferring the doctoral laurels, for to this 
 also the Cambridge doctors are admitted. The royal 
 professors of Theology, are Dr. Gunning, who has a stipend 
 of four hundred and fifty pounds per annum; and Dr. 
 Pearson, who has two hundred: Dr. Clark, the Professor 
 of Law, has eighty pounds per annum ; Dr. Glisson, of 
 Medicine, one hundred and twenty ; Dr. Cudworth, forty 
 pounds; Master Crichton, of Greek, forty pounds; Master 
 Barrow, of Mathematics, one hundred pounds; and Dr. 
 Withrington, of Humanity. Besides these, each separate 
 college has public lecturers in every faculty, art, and branch 
 of education, whose salaries are for the most part uncer- 
 tain, being helped out by the prebends, which are usually 
 conferred upon them, and by the masterships of the afore- 
 mentioned sixteen colleges. 
 
 The first and most ancient is the College, or House of 
 St. Peter, called by the English St. Peter's College, which 
 was built and endowed in the year 1284, by Hugh Bal- 
 sham. Bishop of Ely, and by John Hotham, Simon 
 Langham, John Fordham, Bishop of Ely, John Wark- 
 
 HH 
 
234 
 
 worth, who were all masters of the college; and by John 
 Whitgift, Archbishop of Canterbury, and by Andrew 
 Beam, Dean of Ely; it was so much enlarged and enriched, 
 both in point of buildings, books, and revenue, that it 
 now supports a president, who is Dr. Beaumont, sixteen 
 fellows, twenty-one scholars, bible clerks, with many other 
 officers and servants, in all estimated at one hundred and 
 thirty-six. 
 
 The second is Clare College, or University Hall, com- 
 monly called Clare Hall, which was founded in the year 
 1326, by Richard Badon, chancellor, and the scholars 
 li\^ed in it at the'cdmnic^fi' elpettse of the university, till, 
 with the previous consent of William Thaxted, master, 
 and of Richard Lyng, chancellor, the Countess Elizabeth 
 Clare, widow, and formerly wife of John de Burgh, Earl 
 of Ulster, in virtue of the faculty obtained from Edward 
 the Third, rebuilt it in the year 1340, and relinquishing 
 the first name, called it Clare Hall, appropriating to it 
 fresh revenues, which, in after-times, were augmented by 
 Thomas Hoyle, by Edmund Natarosso, both masters of 
 the college, and, above all, by Thomas Cecil, Earl of 
 Exeter, by John Trueman, by Dr. Scott, Dean of 
 Rochester, and by the Countess Dorothea, wife of Wil- 
 liam Buller, a very celebrated physician; so that there is 
 
 A ,i 
 
235 
 
 now sufficient for the annual maintenance of one hundred 
 and forty fellows, scholars, officers, and servants, who are 
 subordinate to Dr. Lingam, master. 
 ,j yije h^ll or college of Pembroke, called by the English 
 Pembroke Hall, was originally founded in 1343 by 
 Maria de St, Paul, daughter of Guy Chatillon, Count of 
 St. Paul, and third wife of Adhemar Valencia, Earl of 
 Pembroke and Westford, Lord of Montague, and Gover- 
 nor of Scotland, with whom it is reported that she lived 
 only one day. Having devoted herself entirely to religion^ 
 and founded the Abbey of Douay, she gave away the great- 
 est part of her property to the churches, monasteries, and to 
 the poor, applying a large proportion of it, with the per- 
 mission of Edward the Third, to the foundation of this 
 college, which took its name from her, being called The 
 Hall of Mary, of Valencia. King Henry the Sixth, 
 seconding the generosity of the foundress, doubled its 
 revenues, by which means there are now educated there 
 one hundred and forty-five members, divided into fellows, 
 scholars, officers, servants, and students, all of whom are 
 dependant upon Dr. Mapletoft, the master. 
 
 The college of Corpus Christi, otherwise of St. Benedict, 
 which the English call Corpus Christi, or Bene't College, 
 was built in the year 1344, by Henry of Monmouth, 
 
 BUS 
 
236 
 
 called Wry-neck, who, on the death of his father, Henry, 
 Earl of Lancaster, Lord of Monmouth and Pombiet, was 
 created by Edward III., knight of the garter, Earl of 
 Lincoln and Duke of Lancaster, and it was by him 
 united to the church of St. Benedict, and endowed with 
 very large possessions. These being afterwards encreased 
 by Elizabeth Brotherton, Duchess of Norfolk ; by Mat- 
 thew Parker, Archbishop of Canterbury ; by Roger Man- 
 ners, Earl of Rutland, and others ; a fund was established 
 sufficient for the maintenance of one hundred and forty- 
 five members, all dwelling in the college, which is under 
 the orders of Dr. Spencer, master. 
 
 The Hall of Trinity, called in English Trinity-Hall, 
 was established in the year 1347, by William Bateman, 
 Archdeacon of Norwich, and afterwards bishop of that 
 diocese, who, having purchased the monastery formerly 
 given by John Crawdon, prior of Ely, to the monks of St. 
 Benedict, converted it into a college or hall, dedicated to 
 the Most Holy Trinity, for the accommodation of such 
 scholars as applied themselves to the study of law, appro- 
 i^ priating to them the revenues which had before belonged 
 to the said monastery ; by Richard Ling, chancellor of 
 the university ; by Archibald Norwich ; by Simon Ro- 
 henhall ; and Walter of Elvedon. These were afterwards 
 
237 
 
 encreased by Simon Dalling; by Richard Hix, Bishop 
 of Norwich; by Stephen Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester; 
 by Matthew Parker, Archbishop of Canterbury ; and 
 other benefactors ; who, made provision for the support of 
 twelve fellows and fourteen scholars, who, with the officers 
 and servants, make up the number of sixty-six, over 
 whom Dr. King, a lawyer, presides. 
 
 Gonvil and Caius College, as it is called by the En- 
 glish, was founded in the year 1348, by Edmund Gon- 
 vil, rector of the church of Terrington, in the county of 
 Norfolk, who, having obtained permission from King 
 Edward III., built it near the garden of Corpus Christi 
 College, calling it after the Annunciation of the Blessed 
 Virgin, in conjunction with his own name ; to which, in 
 the year 1557, was added that of Caius, out of respect to 
 John Caius, Doctor of Medicine, w arden of the same col- 
 lege, and a famous antiquary, who enlarged the building 
 at his own expense, and enriched the funds of the college 
 with new revenues, deserving thereby the reward which he 
 obtained from King Philip and Queen Mary of being 
 made partaker, in conjunction with Gonvil, of the honors 
 and privileges of founder. Afterwards Stephen Smith, 
 William Wilson, Thomas Willows, and William Gale, 
 contributed, by different donations and bequests, to the 
 
238 
 
 preservation and augmentation of its revenues ; so that 
 there have been maintained there at all times, one hundred 
 members, collegians and servants, under the direction of 
 a master, who is now Dr. Brady, a physician. 
 
 St. John's College, to which his highness went from 
 the hall of the university (senate house) was begun in the 
 year 1508, by Margaret of Richmond before-mentioned. 
 
 Magdalen College had for its founder Edward Staf- 
 ford, last Duke of Buckingham and Earl of Stafford, 
 son and heir of Henry, second Duke of Buckingham, 
 w|io ere^,teid it in the place where formerly stood the mo- 
 nastery of St. Giles, and it was at that time called Buck- 
 ingham College; which appellation it changed in 1542, 
 when Thomas Audley, Baron Waldon, chancellor of the 
 kingdom, having made over to it in perpetuity many es- 
 tates and possessions, named it, with the royal authority, 
 after St. Mary Magdalen. King Henry VIII. ; Edmund 
 Grindall, Archbishop of Canterbury ; Christopher Vesey ; 
 and Thomas Parkinson, rector of Winlinghat ; who con- 
 tributed largely to the college, are reckoned amongst its 
 benefactors. The members who live there, are one hun- 
 dred ; and this number is made up of fellows, scholars, 
 ,and servants, ap4^ of a master, who is Dr. Ewport, a 
 theologian. 
 
239 
 
 Trinity College, founded by Henry VIII., is the sahie 
 which his highness visited after that of St. John. 
 
 Emanuel College had for its founder in the year 1584 
 Sir Walter Mildmay, chancellor, treasurer of the Exche- 
 quer, and counsellor to Queen Elizabeth, who, in order to 
 shew his regard for literature, obtained leave from that 
 queen to found it in the street called after preachers of 
 the convent of the friars of St. Dominic, which stood in it. 
 Neither was he the only one who endowed it with re- 
 venue; for Queen Elizabeth herself charged the Royal Ex- 
 chequer with the payment of an annual stipend to the 
 said college. Stimulated by this example, Henry Has- 
 tings, Earl of Huntingdon ; Alexander Howell, dean of 
 St. Paul's in London ; and Sir Thomas Skinner, present- 
 ed it with several estates ; so that, what with fellows, 
 scholars, servants, and poor, there were supported there 
 not less than two hundred and twenty persons, under the 
 care of a master, who is at present Dr. Brigton, a theo- 
 logian. 
 
 The college of Sydney, which the English call Sydney 
 Sussex College, was founded in the year 1598, by Francis 
 Sydney, Countess of Sussex, sister of Henry Sydney, 
 Viceroy of Ireland, and widow of Thomas RadclifFe, Earl 
 of Sussex, who, besides what she herself contributed toth6 
 
240 
 
 building, obliged Henry Gray, fifth Earl of Kent, and John 
 Lord Harrington, her testamentary executors, to employ 
 tbe greater part of her fortune in completing it ; but these, 
 by making additions out of their own property, with the 
 assistance of sundry benefactions from James Montagu, 
 Bishop of Winchester, from Lucy, Countess of Bedford, 
 and from Edward Montagu, of Boughton, established 
 it'fh such a manner, that it maintains, with ease, one hun''- 
 dred and thirty-six members, who are at present under the 
 superintendance of Dr. Minshall, a theologian. 
 
 King's College, built by King Henry the Sixth, was 
 seen by his highness immediately after the senate-house, 
 and before all the other colleges. 
 
 ■ Queen's College is so called from its having been 
 founded in 1443, by Margaret of Anjou, daughter of 
 Renier, Duke of Anjou, and wife of King Henry the Sixth, 
 #tioi imitating at once the generosity and piety of her 
 husband, erected and endowed this college, dedicating it 
 to St. Margaret and St. Bernard; but being prevented by 
 death from fully accomplishing her wishes, it was after- 
 wards completed by Queen Elizabeth, wife of Edward the 
 Fourth, who was seconded by the Countess Margaret de 
 la Roos, Johanna Ingoldesthorpe, Cecilia, Duchess of 
 York, Richard, Duke of Gloucester, Matilda, Countess 
 
241 
 
 of Oxford, Marmaduke Luinley, Bishop of Lincoln, 
 Chancellor of the University, and Andrew Ducket, with 
 voluntary contributions of money and other property, 
 which were again augmented by Sir Thomas Smith, se- 
 cretary of Queen Elizabeth, by Henry, Earl of Hunting- 
 don, and by George Montagu, Bishop of London, grand 
 almoner of King James ; so that they are able to sup- 
 port, besides a president, who is now Dr. Wells, theolo- 
 gian, twenty fellows, thirty-two scholars, eight bible clerks, 
 and three other lecturers in Hebrew, Arithmetic, and 
 Geometry, and other officers and servants, who make up 
 altogether the number of two hundred and thirty per- 
 sons. 
 
 The Hall of St. Catherine (Catherine Hall) was built 
 in the year 1473, by the special privilege of King Ed- 
 ward IV., not very far from Queen's College, by Dr. Ro- 
 bert Woodlark, a native of the village of Wakerley in 
 the county of Northampton and placed under the pa- 
 tronage of St. Catherine, virgin and martyr ; but from 
 the smallness of its funds, it could with difficulty have 
 supported one monastery and three fellows, if William 
 Taylor, Robert Simpson, Hugh Pemberton, John Loach^' 
 and Sir John Claypoole, had not been prompted, by their 
 love of letters, and Isabella Canterbury, widow, Elizabeth 
 
 1 1 
 
242 
 
 Bernardiston, and Rosamond Payne, by their piety, to 
 assist the foundation with new revenues, which maintain 
 with decency six fellows, eight scholars, and several offi- 
 cers and servants, to the number of sixty, all under the 
 orders of Dr.Lightfoot, theologian, who holds the situation 
 of master. 
 
 Jesus College was erected in the year 1496 by John 
 Alcock, of Beverley in the county of York, dean of St. 
 Stephen's, Westminster, Bishop of Rochester, and after- 
 Mards of Worcester and Ely, out of the property enjoyed 
 by the ancient monastery of St. Radegunda, built and en- 
 dowed by Molcolm, fourth King of Scotland, and by the 
 family of the Earls of Huntingdon. This, in consequence of 
 the misconduct of the nuns, and the impending ruin of the 
 building was, with the consentof King Henry VII., repaired 
 and converted into a college, and successively called after 
 the Blessed Virgin, of St. John the Evangelist, and of St. 
 Radegunda, which appellations being relinquished in the 
 course of time, it took that of Jesus. Neither was it John 
 Alcock alone who brought the work to perfection ; for his; 
 example was followed by Sir Robert Read, by Thomas 
 Thirlby, Bishop of Ely, by Richard Pingol, and Thomas 
 Sutton ; who united in the establishment of a foundation, 
 which should maintain sixteen fellows, twentv-tvvo scho-; 
 
243 
 
 lars, officers, and servants, to the amount altogether of one 
 hundred and thirty. 
 
 Christ's College, by the munificence of Margaret, 
 Countess of Richmond, daughter and heiress of John 
 Beaufort, Earl of Somerset, and widow of Edmund Had- 
 ham, Earl of Richmond, was founded in the year 1505, 
 on the same spot where King Henry VI. erected the hos- 
 pital called the House of God. This college was formed 
 by the union of four buildings, with the gardens attached 
 to them, which belonged to the monastery of Tilsey and 
 to the priory of Denney ; and although it was at that 
 time provided with a rich endowment, this was neverthe- 
 less augmented by King Edward VI., by Dr. Thomp- 
 son, by Sir Walter Mildmay, chancellor and treasurer of 
 the Exchequer, by Edward Grindall, Archbishop of Can- 
 terbury, and by Anthony Watson, Bishop of Chichester ; 
 so that it now maintains fourteen fellows and fifty-five 
 scholars, with officers and servants, amounting in all to 
 two hundred and six. The prefect is Dr. Cud worth, 
 theologian, who enjoys, in conjunction with the master- . 
 ship of this college, the chair of the Hebrew languag^,*^ 
 and is one of the public professors of the university, which, 
 from the riches of its colleges, the reputation of its profes- 
 sors, particularly in respect to the Anglican Theology, 
 
 IIS 
 
244 
 
 which is taught there more than any other science, and 
 from the number of its students, is famous throughout all 
 England. 
 
 On the morning of the 12th, the weather being very 
 fine, his highness, having heard mass privately, left Cam- 
 bridge, taking the road to Northampton, over an open 
 plain, divided into arable and pasture land, and for the 
 most part rather wet as far as Stow, a village of a few 
 houses, where his highness stopped to dine. As he con- 
 tinued his journey, the country was of a better description, 
 spreading out into an uneven champain, almost all under 
 the plough. They met with thickly-scattered villages, 
 which gave an interest to the journey, amongst which 
 those of St. Neot's, belonging to the county of Cambridge, 
 and of Highhamferrers, were the best, though these were 
 much surpassed by Wellingborough, a borough contain- 
 ing a great number of houses, all built of stone, and a 
 considerable population ; besides other places situated on 
 each side of the road along which they travelled, and of 
 which they enjoyed the view as they passed along. From 
 Wellingborough, the remainder of the country was either 
 clothed with trees, or devoted to tillage or pasture, all the 
 way to Northampton, the chief town of the county, called 
 by the English Northamptonshire. His highness alighted 
 

 
 -?^ 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 s 
 
 
 1 
 
 ^ 
 
 ■<5 
 
245 
 
 at the Inn of St. George, situated near the belfry^of the 
 principal church. On the arrival of his highness, the bells 
 were immediately rung as a mark of joy, and, being well 
 tuned, the sound of them was very agreeable ; but the 
 ringing being continued a great part of the night, they 
 proved a great interruption to sleep. The mayor and 
 aldermen, with whom the civil government rests, came to 
 pay their respects to his highness, who made use of the 
 same formalities towards them as had been adopted in 
 other places. His highness walked though Northamp- 
 ton, which, both in the structure and elegance of its build- 
 ings, is not inferior to the other towns of the kingdom. 
 He went to see the church close to his lodgings, which 
 was formerly dedicated to St. Andrew, but now profaned 
 by the exercise of the Anglican religion ; it was intended 
 by Simon St. Liz, first Earl of Northampton, for the place 
 of his burial, having been built by him, along with the 
 castle, which stands on the Western side of the city ; his 
 highness then returned, and supped alone. 
 
 Northampton, as before described, is the chief town 
 of the county, and is situated almost in the centre of 
 England. It stands on an eminence, which rising gra- 
 dually, renders the scite, in some degree, hilly. Its cir- 
 cumference, which is two thousand one hundred and 
 
246 
 
 twenty paces, is surrounded by walls, not far from which 
 runs the river Nen. The streets and the buildings are 
 good, and in a respectable style of architecture; the 
 greater part of them are built of earth, and of stone, a 
 good deal ornamented. The inhabitants are estimated at 
 about sixteen thousand ; and all the places of the county 
 are well peopled, in consequence both of the salubrity of 
 the air and the fertility of the soil. Of these, the most con- 
 siderable after Northampton, is the city of Peterborough 
 where, united to the monastery built (according to tradi- 
 tion) by King Wolfer, is the cathedral formerly conse- 
 crated to St. Peter the Apostle, but now profaned, and it 
 is more celebrated than anything else in the place for 
 the nobleness and antiquity of its structure. In it are 
 buried Queen Catherine, daughter of Ferdinand and 
 Isabella, Sovereigns of Spain, and wife of King Henry the 
 Eighth of England ; also Queen Mary Stuart, daughter 
 of James, Viceroy of Scotland i and Madam Mary of 
 Guise, who was first wife of Francis the Second, King of 
 France, and afterwards of Henry Stuart, son of the Earl 
 of Lenox, a Scotsman, son of Margaret, eldest sister of 
 Henry the Eighth — both unfortunate women; the one, 
 owing to her divorce, being compelled to die in the village 
 of Kimbolton ; and the other, in consequence of suspicions 
 
247 
 
 entertained against her by Queen Elizabeth, deprived of 
 life at Fotheringay. There are in this county, amongst 
 other things worthy of notice, the castles of Towcester, 
 Kettering, Oundle, and Collyweston, celebrated for the 
 stone quarries, from which they dig not only the stone 
 for ornamenting the buildings, but likewise the slate for 
 covering them; and, therefore, Margaret of Richmond, 
 mother of King Henry the Seventh, availing herself of 
 the convenience of these materials, built there a very noble 
 mansion. The title of Earl of Northampton (which was 
 given to the Earl of Essex by King Edward the Sixth) 
 is now enjoyed by my Lord James Compton, one of the 
 most illlustrious families in the county of Warwick, from 
 which was descended Henry Compton, who received the 
 title of baron from Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 His highness left Northampton for Oxford, in variable 
 weather; the road, almost the whole of the v^ay, was un- 
 even; and the country, for the most part uncultivated, 
 abounding in weeds, which surround on every side the 
 royal villa of Holdenby, a square palace, situated on the 
 highest part of an eminence, of which you have a view on' 
 the right, as you go along the road. In this villa of 
 Holdenby, or Honby, King Charles the First was shut 
 up by order of the Parliament, on suspicion that he had 
 
248 
 
 attempted, with the assistance of Lord Murray, to fly from 
 Newcastle in the county of Northumberland, where he 
 was kept in strict confinement by the Scots. It was 
 almost destroyed by the Parliamentarians in the time of 
 Cromwell, but was restored by King Charles the Second, 
 and given to my Lord Arlington, and afterwards sold by 
 him to the Duke of York. After taking a view of Honby, 
 we entered into a park, separated by palisades from the 
 adjacent territory, belonging to the villa of Althorp, a 
 seat of my Lord Robert Spencer, Earl of Sunderland, 
 who had given his highness repeated and pressing invita- 
 tions to visit him there. Before he reached the villa, his 
 highness was received and escorted by the said earl, 
 who was anxiously expecting his arrival. Immediately 
 on alighting, he went to see the apartments on the ground 
 floor, from which he ascended to the upper rooms, and 
 found both the one and the other richly furnished. His 
 highness paid his compliments to my lady, the wife of 
 the master of the house, and daughter of my Lord George 
 Digby, Earl of Bristol, by whom the Earl had three 
 children, one son and two daughters ; and when he had 
 spent some time in this visit, the hour of dinner arrived, 
 which was splendid, and served in the best possible style. 
 At table his highness sat in the place of honor, in an 
 
\ 
 
 
^ 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
249 
 
 arm-chair, he having previously desired that my lady, the 
 wife of the earl, might be seated in a similar one ; the 
 earl also was obliged by his highness to take his place 
 close to him, the gentlemen of his retinue sitting sepa- 
 rately upon stools. When dinner was over, his highness 
 was conducted through the other apartments of the man- 
 sion, all of which were sumptuously furnished ; and hav- 
 ing observed the manner in which one apartment com- 
 municated with another, he went down into the garden, 
 in which, except some ingenious divisions, parterres, and 
 well-arranged rows of trees, there is little to be seen that 
 is rare or curious ; as it is not laid out and diver- 
 sified with those shady walks, canopied with verdure, 
 which add to the pleasantness of the gardens of Italy 
 and France, but of which the nature and usage of this 
 country would not admit. 
 
 This villa is built at the bottom of a valley, surround- 
 ed by beautiful hills, clothed with trees. To get into the 
 court (which is situated betwixt two large branches of the 
 building that bound two of its sides, which correspond 
 with each other as to their shape and style of archi- 
 tecture, and have betwixt them the principal part of the 
 house which is in front) we ascended a bridge of stone, 
 under which is to run the water, which will collect in great 
 
 K K 
 
250 
 
 abundance from the springs that issue from the surround- 
 ing hills. The whole of the edifice is regularly built, both as 
 to its exterior and interior, and is richly ornamented with 
 stone of a white colour, worked in the most exquisite man- 
 ner, which is dug from a quarry at Weldon, fourteen 
 miles distant. If they could take off a certain natural 
 roughness from this stone, and give it a polish, it would 
 not be inferior to marble. The ascent from the ground- 
 floor to the noble story above, is by a spacious staircase 
 of the wood of the walnut-tree, stained, constructed with 
 great magnificence ; this staircase, dividing itself into two 
 equal branches, leads to the grand saloon, from which is 
 the passage into the chambers, all of them regularly dis- 
 posed after the Italian manner, to which country the earl 
 was indebted for a model of the design, and it may be said 
 to be the best planned and best arranged country-seat in 
 the kingdom ,• for though there may be many which sur- 
 pass it in size, none are superior to it in symmetrical 
 elegance. 
 
 F At a proper hour, after dinner, his highness departed 
 from the villa, highly gratified with the politeness of the 
 earl, who sent him, in his own coach-and-six, as far as 
 Brackley, a town in the county of Northampton, formerly 
 <)f considerable extent, and celebrated for the fine woollen 
 
cloths which were manufactured there ; at present it is 
 merely a collection of a few houses. His highness there 
 changed horses, for the sake of expediting his journey. 
 They travelled from Althrop to Brackley, through a 
 country partly in tillage and partly in pasture ; and of 
 a similar description was the road to Oxford, although it 
 became rather flatter. 
 
 His highness arrived at Oxford at one in the morning, 
 and alighted at lodgings prepared for him at the Angel 
 Inn, having refused those which had been politely offered 
 him in Christ-Church College, by Dr. Fell, Dean of that 
 College, who is vice-chancellor and deputy for my Lord 
 Gilbert Sheldon, Archbishop of Canterbury, Chancellor 
 of the University. In the afternoon, Henry Nevill, and 
 Colonel John Nevill his brother, came to congratulate his 
 highness, having come to Oxford from Belingsbere, their 
 country-seat, to pay their court to him, and to entreat him 
 to condescend, on his return to London, to let them have 
 the satisfaction of waiting upon him, and entertaining 
 him at their villa. His highness testified peculiar pleasure 
 at this attention, and was pleased, in compliance with their 
 wishes, to accept the invitation. 
 
 Before he went out on the morning of the 14th, there 
 came in public procession, to pay their respects to his 
 
 K K S 
 
252 
 
 highness, the vice-chancellor, with the professors, repre- 
 senting the body of the university, having previously 
 assembled for that purpose in the church of St. Mary, 
 which is particularly appropriated to the academical 
 ceremonies. They were preceded by six beadles, three of 
 whom carried the golden maces, and three the silver ones ; 
 and close behind these came the vice-chancellor, accom- 
 panied by the heads of houses, professors and other mem- 
 bers of the university, the greater part in scarlet gowns 
 adapted to their respective degrees, and varying accord- 
 ing to the faculty they professed ; so that the theologians 
 had them lined in the inside with black velvet; the lawyers 
 and physicians with red, each having on his head a square 
 cap answering to the colour of the gown. The vice-chan- 
 cellor complimented the serene prince in the name of the 
 university, expressing the general joy at his arrival, and 
 inviting him to the House of Convocation. His highness 
 replied to this civility in language demonstrative of his 
 respect and satisfaction. No sooner had the academicians 
 departed, than the mayor and aldermen, drest in scarlet, 
 with attendants, the same as in other cities, presented them- 
 selves to his highness, to welcome him, and to make an 
 offer of whatever might be either useful or agreeable to 
 him. In no respect inferior to their courtesy, was 
 
253 
 
 that of his highness, in assuring them how much 
 he was gratified by their kind and respectful offers. 
 As soon as the magistracy had departed, his high- 
 ness, accompanied by the vice-chancellor and other pro- 
 fessors, went to the College of St. Mary Magdalen, 
 which stands without the Eastern gate of the city. At 
 the gate his highness was received by Dr. Pierce, the pre- 
 sident, and conducted to see the church, and other things 
 belonging to that magnificent building. In the year 1460, 
 in the reign of King Henry VI., this college was founded 
 by William Wainfleet, Lord Chancellor of the Kingdom 
 and Bishop of Winchester, in the same situation where 
 King Henry III. had erected a noble college and hospital, 
 named St. John's in memory of King John, his father, 
 laying the first stone with his own hand, and appropriat- 
 ing to that purpose the fines that had been paid by 
 delinquents. In addition to the magnificence of the 
 building, which is ornamented with stone decorations, 
 and embellished with statues (amongst which the most 
 esteemed are one of Mary Magdalen, and another of 
 Bishop Wainfleet, the founder) it has to boast the plea- 
 santness of its gardens, in which are walks and prome- 
 nades, in the making of which neither expense nor labour 
 has been spared, all enclosed within the walls of the col- 
 
254 
 
 lege, which are bathed by the river Charwell. This 
 stream, famous for the abundance and diversity of its fish, 
 which joins the Isis in the neighbouring plains, and 
 flows jointly with it into the Thames, affords, by the 
 murmuring of its waters, no small gratification to the 
 members of this college, who, including fellows, scholars, 
 chaplains, choristers, inferior masters of arts, officers, and 
 servants, exceed the number of one hundred and fifty, all 
 being subordinate to the authority of a president. During 
 the short space of time that his highness remained in the 
 college, various Latin compositions were recited by the 
 young students in his praise, and congratulating him on 
 his arrival; but from the peculiarity of the pronunciation, 
 the purport of them could not be sufficiently understood. 
 , From this college his highness went in his carriage to 
 that of All-Souls, where he was met by Dr. James, the 
 master, and many of the collegians, in their gowns, by 
 one of whom his arrival was welcomed in a short congra- 
 tulatory Latin oration. His highness, accompanied by 
 the master and collegians, viewed the principal apartments 
 of the college, which, in size and arrangement, are not in- 
 ferior to any in Oxford. It had for its founder, in the 
 year 1426, Chichley, Archbishop of Canterbury, who, 
 taking into consideration the unjust power whicli some 
 
255 
 
 courtiers and military officers had usurped over the pro- 
 perty of the church, in order to divert their thoughts with 
 the hope of rich booty, persuaded Henry V. to attempt 
 to recover, by arms, sundry castles and territories in Nor- 
 mandy, then in the occupation of the French; and the 
 king having determined on the undertaking, at the sug- 
 gestion of the Archbishop, who always took his part, 
 crossed over with the flower of his army, and, falling in 
 with the enemy, gained a complete victory, and succeeded 
 in regaining every thing that France retained to the pre- 
 judice of his rights. After this conquest, the archbishop, 
 reflecting how many souls had perished in the war which 
 had been undertaken by his advice, in order to shew that 
 ecclesiastics ought to refrain not only from drawing the 
 sword on such occasions, but even from co-operating with 
 their advice, determined, as a memorial of this affair, to 
 erect with all possible magnificence this college, called 
 All-Souls. Amongst other distinguished members edu- 
 cated at this college, is reckoned Thomas More, Lord 
 Chancellor of England. 
 
 His highness then proceeded to view Christ's College 
 (Christ's Church) which is the largest and richest in Ox- 
 ford. Dr. Fell, Dean and President of the same, with 
 other members of the college, received and attended upon 
 
256 
 
 his highness, conducting him to the most remarkable 
 apartments destined for the ordinary business and occur- 
 rences of the college, where different Latin compositions 
 in prose were repeated to his highness by the scholars, 
 expressive of their pleasure and acknowledgment. The 
 whole edifice is of square stone, built according to the 
 rules of the Gothic order, and comprehends two spacious 
 courts. This college has for its founder Cardinal Thomas 
 Wolsey, Lord Chancellor of the Kingdom, Archbishop 
 of York, Bishop of Winchester, Administrator of the Sees 
 of Bath and Wells, of Worcester, and of Hereford, and 
 Abbot of St. Albans, who, having obtained from the pope, 
 by special grant, the permission to suppress more than 
 forty monasteries, in order to employ their revenues in 
 building colleges for the public benefit, commenced this, 
 before any other, in the year 1536. It was for some time 
 named The Cardinal's College; but afterwards having ob- 
 tained a better establishment from a part of the great 
 revenues of which Wolsey was despoiled by King Henry 
 VIII. after his fall (and which are calculated to exceed 
 those which are now produced by the united incomes of 
 all the bishoprics and deaneries of the kingdom) was 
 called The Royal College, so that it almost claims this 
 king for its founder ; but he, to shew that he did not 
 
257 
 
 affect that title, and scorned to usurp it from the cardinal,'' 
 did away every other denomination, and gave it the name 
 of Christ's College ; and to encrease its prerogatives still 
 more, he raised its church (endowing it with three hun- 
 dred and fifty pounds per annum) to the dignity of a ca- 
 thedral (which is at present governed by Dr. Robert 
 Skinner, formerly bishop of Bristol) and appointed a dean, 
 with eight prebendaries, to superintend the college, in 
 which, besides a great number of noble students, who 
 maintain themselves at their owri expense, there are, sup- 
 ported by the public fund, one hundred scholars, who for 
 the most part are masters of arts and graduates in divi- 
 nity, many fellows, chaplains, choristers, officers, servants, 
 and poor ; in all two hundred andxthirty members. 
 
 Although the curiosity might be fully satisfied by the 
 view of Christ's College, the generosity of Cardinal Wol- 
 sey's mind having here been exerted to the utmost, as it 
 was his wish not only to provide for the convenience of the 
 college, but also for the accommodation of the royal 
 "court, which, on occasions of its visiting the city and uni- 
 versity, has frequently taken up its quarters here, and par- 
 ticularly at the visit of King James I. which took place, 
 in the year 1605, with all possible pomp and solemnity ; 
 nevertheless, his highness went to St. John the Baptist's 
 
258 
 
 College, where he was met and waited upon by Dr. Me- 
 nor, president, and the members of the college. 
 Ifriln ascending the staircase, and whilst he was visiting 
 the principal apartments, different epigrams were recited 
 to his highness by certain of the collegians, who walked 
 before and escorted him ; and in the hall an oration was 
 made in testimony of the respect which they entertained 
 for his person, and the obligation under which they all 
 felt themselves. ^dmt? 
 
 His highness viewed the library, and the gallery, which, 
 except the cieling, possesses no ornament but a portrait, 
 drawn with a pen, of King Charles I., which is shewn as a 
 curiosity (his statue, with that of the queen, his wife, made 
 of brass, stands over the gates in the second court), and no- 
 ticed also the two gardens contained within the precincts 
 of the college, of which the most curious is that which is 
 raised, and has a view of the country situated to the north. 
 This college was founded, in 1437, by Henry Chichley, 
 Archbishop of Canterbury, after that of All-Souls, and in 
 point of structure and regular architecture is better built 
 than any of the others. It has two large quadrangular 
 courts, and two separate buildings, with four wings, all 
 pf the same height. Although not equal to others in 
 point of revenue, it has nevertheless, in consequence of 
 
259 
 
 the addition made to it in the year 1557 by Thomas^ 
 Witt, mayor of London, sufficient funds for the mainte- 
 nance of fellows, scholars, officers, and servants, to the 
 number of one hundred and twenty-five. Thence hid 
 highness returned to the inn, and dined as usual witl| 
 the gentlemen of his train. 
 
 After dinner, the scholars, anticipating his highness's 
 going out, waited for him, drawn up in parade-order on 
 both sides of the streets through which he was to pass, be-» 
 ginning at his highness's lodgings, and ending at th^ 
 House of Convocation, to which, as he was attended by 
 the vice-chancellor and the other public professors, he 
 chose to go on foot. In the hall, which was full of scho-» 
 lars, masters of arts, and the heads of the university, a seat 
 was prepared on a large carpet for his highness, in the 
 place of honor. Behind him, on the left hand, was the 
 the vice-chancellor, in the stall appropriated to him. His 
 highness was seated, whilst Dr. Suet, professor of civil 
 law, made him a public acknowledgment in Latin, in the 
 name of the university, for his goodness in honoring.it 
 with his presence, and ended the ceremony by proposing 
 the admission of several members to the degree of master 
 of arts. To gratify the professors, who desired the honor 
 of his highness's presence at their lectures, he went to hear 
 
 L L9 
 
260 
 
 the lecturer in geometry, John Walhs, who has the repu- 
 tation of being the greatest arithmetician in Europe; the 
 lecturer in anatomy, Paris ; and the lecturer in experi- 
 mental philosophy, Thomas WilHs, the most distin- 
 guished of all the learned men in the university. With 
 the same retinue of the vice-chancellor and professors, m 
 their doctors' gowns, he repaired to the theatre, a modern 
 building, oval rather than perfectly round, erected by the 
 present Archbishop of Canterbury, Chancellor of the Uni- 
 versity, and successor of the Duke of Clarendon. The archie 
 tecture is mixed, that is, partly Doric, and partly Latin or 
 composite, which is not only stronger and more graceful^ 
 but also more showy; so that, being judiciously ornamented 
 in all its parts, it has a most beautiful effect, and forces the 
 spectator to acknowledge that the whole structure has 
 been tastefully and regularly arranged both within and 
 without; and what increases its beauty, is its being painted 
 almost all over in fresco. This theatre is used for the dis- 
 putations which are held by the public professors on 
 the days appointed by the statutes of the university for 
 each faculty; and the stalls in which they sit, according to 
 their respective privileges and degrees, are judiciously and 
 handsomely arranged round it for this purpose. 
 
 From the theatre his highness went to the public library 
 
261 
 
 of the university (for every college has its own private Hbrary 
 for the service of its members). This building, which is 
 of no very large size, is in the form of a T, with two shelves 
 for books, one above the other. On the bottom shelf are 
 distributed, in six rows, the books in folio ; in three 
 others, those in quarto; and on the upper one, to which 
 you ascend by wooden steps ingeniously placed at the 
 corners and in the middle, the books are distributed in 
 the same number of rows, those in folio, in three, and 
 those of different sizes in six, being separately arranged ac- 
 cording to the subjects they treat of. Amongst these are 
 the works of Selden, and the volumes of manuscripts which 
 the predecessor of the present Archbishop of Canterbury 
 presented to the library, about 2300, which are kept sepa- 
 rately along with a great number of manuscripts in all 
 the Oriental languages, and, for greater security, are 
 fastened to the shelves with chains. The members of this 
 university have so great a value for their library, that they 
 prefer it, both as to the number and rarity of its books, to 
 that of the Vatican, persuading themselves that there is 
 none in Europe to be compared with it: but, considering 
 it dispassionately, it does not contain so numerous or such 
 scarce books, as to deserve the praise of being the only 
 library, or the most considerable one in the world, there 
 
262 
 
 being many others which are equal and even superior to 
 it. In the gallery of the library, there are many portraits 
 of men illustrious for their learning hung round the walls. 
 The medals, both ancient and modern, which are preserved 
 there in great numbers, were shewn to his highness ; they 
 are kept separate, and classed in their proper places, ac- 
 cording to their dates, without any confusion. His high- 
 ness likewise saw the sword which was sent by Pope Leo 
 X. to King Henry VHI. before the apostacy, along with 
 the title of Defender of the Faith ; and there was also shewn 
 to him a liquor, which, placed on the finest marble, pene- 
 trates it by its subtleness, and works itself in as deep as 
 about the thickness of a piaster. In the school of music, 
 to which a lecturer was appointed, by Dr. William Hey- 
 ther, for the purpose of teaching the theory of that art, 
 his highness heard different pieces of music and cantatas. 
 He went next to the Anatomical Theatre ; and, except the 
 skin of a man stuffed with tow, a human foot, from the 
 end of one of whose toes was a horn growing out, and 
 sundry animals and skeletons hung up against the wall, 
 there was little to be seen that was curious. Thence his 
 highness went to the Botanical Garden, situated near 
 the gate of the city leading to London, which, from the 
 smallness of its size, irregularity, and bad cultivation. 
 
263 
 
 scarcely deserves to be seen. By the keeper of the garden^ 
 an elderly man of a fine countenance, and a perfect bota- 
 nist, the plants of the greatest rarity were shewn to the 
 serene prince, being all noted down and described in a 
 printed sheet of paper, which he presented to his high*- 
 ness, who, after this, returned home, and supped alone as 
 usual. 
 
 Oxford, which, from its pleasant and delectable situa- 
 tion, has been already stated to be the capital city of the 
 county of the same name, stands in a plain, encircled by 
 woods, which clothe the hills that surround it on every 
 side; amongst these run the two rivers Cherwell and Isis, 
 which, branching out and dividing themselves into several 
 streams, turn a great number of mills in the vicinity, 
 bathing and supplying that very beautiful country with 
 abundance of water. The city was formerly surrounded 
 by a wall, by Roberto D'Oyley, a Norman, the greater part 
 of which is now almost demolished and destroyed by 
 time, so that a very small part of it now remains. The 
 private houses are built with more elegance than is usual 
 in this kingdom, being for the most part of stone ; but the 
 public edifices exhibit a singular magnificence, being all 
 of square stone. The most distinguished of these build- 
 ings, are about eighteen colleges and seven halls, dis- 
 
264 
 
 persed throughout the city for the habitation of the 
 scholars, who flock from all parts of the kingdom to this 
 celebrated university. The civil government is vested in 
 the mayor and aldermen, who, to the number of twenty- 
 four, compose the town-council, which, in point of dress, 
 ceremony, and modes of proceeding, is similar to that of 
 the other cities, differing only in being subordinate to the 
 chancellor of the university, who, in virtue of a privilege 
 granted by King Edward III., superintends, not only the 
 town-councils, but also the sheriff', and the other royal 
 officers of the province; and on this account, besides the 
 chancellor, or the vice-chancellor, his annual substitute, 
 there are chosen two proctors of the university, who are 
 invested with that dignity by the vice-chancellor, and 
 assist him as counsellors, with full authority to proceed 
 against and to punish delinquents, both citizens and 
 strangers, by fines or other penalties, and even by perpe- 
 tual banishment from the city. To the above, Henry III. 
 added four aldermen and eight associates, all principal 
 citizens, whose special charge it is to watch that the pri- 
 vileges and rights of the university are not infringed upon ; 
 and for this purpose they are bound by an oath, which 
 they take annually, with the mayor and fifty of the most 
 distinguished citizens, in the principal church of the uni- 
 
265 
 
 versity, to presei-ve fO the same its immunities, exemp- 
 tions, and liberties. The same oath is taken with great 
 solemnity on the day of St. Scholastica by some of the 
 citizens, who are particularly deputed for that purpose in 
 the name of the city, in the Hall of the Convocation, 
 each paying a piece of money in token of their obedience 
 to the university — a ceremony introduced by King Ed- 
 ward III., to restrain the citizens from those violences 
 which they committed in the year 1354, when, on the 
 day of that Saint, they took up arms against the scholars* 
 The population is made to appear considerable by the 
 scholars (upwards of three thousand) who dwell there con- 
 tinually, pursuing their studies; for, otherwise, the natives 
 of the place are but few, the best part of the city being 
 occupied by the buildings of the colleges, which, with their 
 dependencies, are very large. Hence the great impoiv 
 tance of Oxford consists in its University, which has ren- 
 dered its name so eminently distinguished. Its origin is 
 almost coeval with that of the city itself; for, shortly after 
 the building of the latter, KingAlfred transferred it thither, 
 founding three colleges, which kept multiplying, in pro- 
 portion to the numbers who came to study there, under 
 King Henry I., Henry II., and Richard, his son, who all 
 contributed, with royal munificence, to the glory of this^ 
 
 M M 
 
^66 
 
 university. Stimulated by their examples, Humphrey 
 the Good, Duke of Gloucester, ennobled it with the 
 ^ne library, whic^i w,§is afterwards increased and greatly 
 enriched with books by Sir Thomas Bodley, whose devoted 
 attachment to the sciences is recorded in the inscription 
 placed there to his memory. 
 
 . The University of Oxford is the first in the kingdom, 
 both in point of antiquity and estimation, and one of the 
 most celebrated of any in Europe, ranking next to that of 
 Paris. It has twelve royal professors and lecturers : the 
 royal professors are, Dr. Allestry of theology, Dr. Hyde 
 of medicine, Dr. Suet of law. Dr. Pocock of Hebrew, and 
 Dr. Lawrence of Greek : the lecturers are. Dr. Paris in 
 anatomy. Dr. Barlow in theology. Dr. Lamphier in his- 
 tory, Dr. Willis in natural philosophy, Dr. Wren in as- 
 trology. Dr. Wallis in geometry, and Dr. Hodges in 
 moral philosophy. The royal professors are distinguished 
 from the lecturers, both by their rank and their stipends. 
 The salaries of the former are according to the faculty 
 they profess ; that of the professor of theology is two hun- 
 dred pounds sterling ; of law and medicine, one hundred 
 and fifty pounds respectively ; and of the others, one hun- 
 dred pounds : this last is also the salary of the principal 
 lecturers, but it is proportionably diminished to the in- 
 
267 
 
 * ■ * 
 
 ferior ones ; not however to receive a less sum tban sixty 
 pounds sterling. 
 
 Of the eighteen colleges in Oxford, the first is Christ's 
 College (Christ-Church) which his highness visited after 
 that of All-Souls, having been founded by Cardinal Wol- 
 sey, and endowed by King Henry VIII. with revenues 
 and special privileges ; of this Dr. Fell is the dean and 
 master. 
 
 Magdalen College, the first that was visited by his 
 highness, was founded by Wainfleet, and is now governed 
 by Dr. Pierce, who is its president. ■'»"'^^^^mi*- 
 
 St. Mary's, or New College, was built and endowed, 
 in the year 1366, in the reign of King Edward III., by 
 William Wickham, Lord Chancellor of the kingdom, and 
 Bishop of Winchester, who was highly esteemed for his 
 knowledge of architecture by the king, who availed him- 
 self of it, both in the building of royal palaces and in the 
 fortifications, which, at considerable expense and with great 
 magnificence, he caused to be erected in his time; amongst 
 which that of Windsor, above all, displays the glory of the 
 architect, who, in the buildings which he erected, shewed 
 not only the power of his art, but also a singular attach- 
 ment to religion and literature; for besides the sums laid 
 out upon his own church, he built two colleges, one at 
 
 M M S 
 
268 
 
 Winchester, and another at Oxford, in order that there 
 might be sent, from the former to the latter, such students 
 as, in the course of their education there, shewed the 
 greatest abihty for the prosecution of the higher studies ; 
 and that the majesty and grandeur of the edifice might 
 correspond with the greatness of the founder's mind, he 
 was careful to ornament it with stones of the most exqui- 
 site workmanship, and to ennoble it with courts, gardens, 
 walks, and libraries, assigning it also a most ample revenue 
 for the preservation of the building, and for the mainte- 
 nance of the persons who reside there for the purpose of 
 applying themselves to letters, and of serving the church, 
 which is united to the college. There are reckoned to be 
 in it about one hundred and fifty fellows, scholars, choris- 
 ters, and servitors, under the government of a warden, who 
 is Dr. Woodward. 
 
 After seeing Magdalen College, his highness went to 
 that of All-Souls, whose founder was Chichley, iVrchbishop 
 of Canterbury, 
 
 Merton College is so called from Walter de Merton, 
 Bishop of Rochester, Great Chancellor of the kingdom, 
 and Counsellor of Henry III., who built it in the year 
 1264, endowing it with very rich possessions. There 
 have flourished at all times in this college men famous for 
 
269 
 
 learning and dignity ; amongst the former are enume- 
 rated Bacon, Burle, Occam, Scot, Gratisden, Dumbleton, 
 Sever, Savile, and William Grysant, a celebrated physi- 
 cian, who was father of Grimoaldo Grysant, afterwards 
 Pope Urban V.; and amongst the latter, besides a great 
 number of bishops, six archbishops of Canterbury, who 
 immediately succeeded each other, and many cardinals. 
 It has no reason to envy other colleges, being equally 
 well provided with every thing that can be desired, whether 
 we consider the accommodations for dwelling and for study, 
 or the pleasantness of the gardens. The fellows, scholars, 
 and servants of the college live under the direction of a 
 warden, who, at present, is Thomas Clayton. 
 
 The college of Corpus Christi, which surpasses all the 
 others in the neat and elegant structure of its chapel, 
 court, hall, and library (which last is so much praised by 
 Erasmus in his letters to John Claymond, president of the 
 college) was founded in the year 1508, and owes both its 
 foundation and its riches to Richard Fox, Bishop of 
 Winchester, uncle and counsellor of Henry VII., who 
 arranged the marriage of James King of Scotland with 
 Margaret, Henry's daughter, through whom took place, 
 m after-time, the union of that kingdom to England: this 
 match was also the beginning of the grandeur and for- 
 
276 
 
 tunes of Cardinal Wolsey, the king's first chaplain. Tliis 
 college produced Cardinal Reginald Pole, Hooker, Rey- 
 nolds, Vives, and other illustrious persons. All the 
 scholars and officers are subordinate to a president, which 
 situation is, at present, held by Dr. Newlin. ^ 
 
 '«Queen's College, so called from having been founded 
 by Queen Philippa, wife of King Edward III., in the 
 year 1360, for the purpose of encouraging the English 
 youth, and assisting them with her riches in the acquire- 
 ment of knowledge, may justly vie with any other in Ox- 
 ford in the nobleness of its structure. In it were educated 
 Prince Edward, called the Black Prince, and King Henry 
 v., under the direction of Henry Beaufort, his uncle, at 
 that time Chancellor of the University, and afterwards 
 Cardinal of St. Eusebius. The university is greatly in-* 
 debted to Henry V., for having obtained for it, when 
 Prince of Wales, many valuable privileges and donations 
 froni his father Henry IV., and when he became king 
 (besides the immense benefactions made to it in the shape 
 of legacies) he left it all his books. It was provided, at 
 the foundation of the college, that there should be main- 
 tained in it a provost, who is, at present. Dr. Barlow, and 
 twelve fellows, in imitation of the twelve apostles ; to whom, 
 corresponding with the seventy disciples of Christ, were 
 
271 
 
 added the same number of scholars, who are called to- 
 gether at the hour of dinner by the sound of a trumpet, 
 and are treated in a manner truly royal, 
 
 St. John's College, which owes its origin to Archbishop 
 Chichley, but was greatly enlarged by White, Mayor of 
 London (which, according to the Saxon word mayre^ sig- 
 nifies Sir, and, according to the English mode of pronun- 
 ciation, Mauvy that is. Mayor) was visited by his highness 
 after that of Christ. 
 
 The College of Durham, or rather of Trinity, called by 
 the English Trinity College, deserves notice equally with 
 the other colleges; it is called Durham from the capital 
 of the county of that name, having been founded by Wil- 
 liam Carleph, Bishop of that see, and endowed with 
 great revenues, sufficient to support a considerable num- 
 ber of fellows, scholars, and officers, dependant on a pre- 
 sident, which situation Dr. Bathurst now holds. 
 
 The College of the Nose, called by the English Brazen 
 Nose College, is so denominated from the nose of brass 
 which is placed over the gate. Different accounts are 
 given of the etymology of this name; some derive it from 
 John Duns Scotus, who, they pretend, was once master 
 of the college, and in commemoration of which, the figure 
 
s 
 
 272 . 
 
 of his nose was placed in its present situation. Others 
 derive it from an ancient hall, so called from the ruins of 
 which, Smyth, Bishop of Lincoln, built this college for 
 the public use of the scholars, who are maintained there 
 in great numbers, vmder the management of a head, called 
 the principal, who, at present, is Dr. Yate. -j-i^-i-^ 
 
 , Oriel College was built, together with the College or 
 Hall called St. Mary's, in the year 1324, by King 
 Edward II., before he resigned the government in favour 
 of his son, Edward III., which he was persuaded to do 
 by John Borthow, Bishop of Ely, by way of anticipating 
 his expected deposition which the Parliament was medi- 
 tating. It was provided with funds sufficient for the sup- 
 port of many fellows, scholars, and servitors, who dwell 
 there upon royal bounty, and are subordinate to a provost, 
 who, at present, is Dr. Say. 
 
 Lincoln College is a building of such beautiful work- 
 ||ianship, and so exquisitely ornamented, that it may 
 justly be called the most elegant in Oxford. For this it 
 is indebted to the munificence of Richard Fleming and 
 Thomas Rotherham, Bishops of Lincoln, its founders. 
 None are admitted but such natives of the county of 
 Lincoln as have proved themselves to be of good abilities 
 
573 
 
 arid disposition; and they have raised the name of the col- 
 lege to no small degree of reputation. Dr. Crew presides 
 over it with the title of rector. 
 
 Exeter College is so called from its founder, Walter 
 Stapledon, Bishop of Exeter, Counsellor of Henry II. and 
 Lord Treasurer of the kingdom, who, having filled various 
 situations in the service of the king with prudence and 
 fidelity, was put to death along with his brother, in 
 the year 1326 (when at the time of the sedition he was 
 assisting, by the king's order, to keep peace in London) 
 by some of the seditious citizens, against whom John 
 Stretford, Archbishop of Canterbury (celebrated in the 
 provincial council of London) fuhninated a rigorous cen- 
 sure. Sir William Petre, Baron Writtle, illustrious both for 
 his birth and learning, augmented the funds appropriated 
 to this college by the first founder; and to him the title 
 of second founder is given by the collegians, as a mark of 
 especial gratitude. The building is in a very respectable 
 style ; and besides the capacious apartments for the accom- 
 modation of the scholars, the greater part of whom are 
 natives of the province of Devonshire, it has gardens, in 
 which the arms of the founders are elegantly represented 
 in parterres of grass. A rector, who is, at present, Dn 
 Bury, presides over the college. 
 
 NN 
 
274 
 
 4 Baliol College was built at an immense expense by 
 John, father of Baliol, King of Scotland, who was 
 afterwards deprived by Edward I. of his kingdom, 
 to which, by his assistance, he had been before raised. 
 He endowed it with large revenues for the support of a 
 great number of Scotch and English students. Hum- 
 phrey, Duke of Gloucester, son of Henry IV., received his 
 education at this college; also Archbishop Cranmer, the 
 Bishops Ridley and Latimer, and other persons celebrated 
 for their learning and virtue. The head of the college is 
 a, master, who, at present, is Dr. Savage. 
 Q»' Jesus College, which was at first dedicated to St. Ber- 
 nard, by Archbishop Henry Chichley, its founder, being 
 of distinguished beauty, both in regard to the materials 
 and skill with which it is built, sufficiently indicates the 
 liberality of this prelate, in giving away his property for 
 the public benefit of such of the English youth as were 
 disposed to devote themselves to study, they being pro^ 
 vided in this college with every possible convenience. 
 The society is governed by a superior, called the princi- 
 pal, who is Dr. Jenkins. 
 
 i University College, was seen by his highness after din- 
 gier, before he went to the New Theatre; and he was there 
 
 attended upon by Dr. Clayton, who presides over it in 
 
 71 :^ 
 
575 
 
 quality of master, and by all the members of the col- 
 lege. 
 
 Wadham and Pembroke Colleges are buildings, which, 
 by the exquisiteness of their structure and the number of 
 their members, abundantly prove the riches and magnani- 
 mity of their founders. Over the first Dr. Ironside pre- 
 sides as warden, and over the other Dr. Hall as master. 
 
 To the above twenty-eight colleges are added seven 
 halls, in which scholars are maintained in proportion to 
 their respective revenues. 
 
 The first is that of St. Edmund, called Edmund Hall, 
 which owes its foundation to Grimoaldo, and its name 
 to St. Edmund, Archbishop of Canterbury, who was born 
 At Abingdon, near Oxford, and was greatly distinguished 
 in this university for his learning, having under his tuition 
 Sewell, Archbishop of York, and Richards, Chancellor of 
 the University, persons in great esteem in England, from 
 the reputation they left behind them. The superior of it, 
 who has the title of principal, is Dr. Tully. 
 
 The second is that of St. Mary Magdalen (Magdalen 
 Hall) of which Dr. Hyde is the principal. 
 
 The third is Alban Hall, which has for its principal 
 Dr. Lam pi ugh. 
 
276 
 
 • The fourth, called New Ipn Hall, is governed by Dr. 
 
 Stone, principal. 
 
 , The fifth is Gloucester Hall, oVer which Dr. Eaton 
 
 presides, 
 
 ►^itThe sixth is St, Mary's Hall, of which Dr. Crowther has 
 
 the superintendance in quality of principal. 
 
 ?.The seventh is Hart Hall, founded by Walter Staple- 
 don, Bishop of Exeter, by whom was likewise founded 
 and endowed the college called Exeter, in the reign of King 
 Henry II., and over this hall Dr, Lamphire presides. 
 / The county of Oxford enjoys the privilege of giving 
 title to an earl, with which dignity King Henry I. in- 
 vested Olderic, of the noble family of Vere, which takes 
 its surname from the territory of Der Veer in Zealand ; 
 and from him is descended the present my Lord Aubrey 
 de Vere, who retains the title of Earl of Oxford. 
 raOn the following morning (the 15th) at an early hour,< 
 t]ie vice-chancellor, accompanied by the public professors 
 and other collegians, came again to pay their respects to 
 his highness, who received them with expressions of much 
 esteem, and of, acknowledgment for the polite attention 
 shewn to him; and in taking leave of them, he signified that 
 he was on the point of departing from Oxford, on his return 
 
277 
 
 to London. The road was level, and though a corn 
 country, as far as Dorchester ; whence they travelled 
 through an uneven country of corn-fields and pasture 
 mixed, till they came to Benson, a place containing but 
 a few houses, and those almost deserted and in ruins. His 
 highness stopped there, and dined with his attendants and 
 Colonel Gascoyne. Continuing their journey, they passed 
 through a hilly, and, for the most part, woody region, as 
 far as Henley, an open and pleasantly situated town in 
 the county of Oxford, containing a greatnumber of houses,^^ 
 close to which runs the river Thames ; and, crossing a 
 wooden bridge, came to Waldrop, a collection of a few 
 houses; and then proceeding through a delightful country, 
 rendered so by numerous plantations of trees, chiefly 
 beech and elm, arrived before evening, on descending 
 into a valley, at Bellingesbere, a villa of Colonel John 
 Nevil, brother of Henry Nevil, where accommodations 
 had been prepared beforehand for his highness. On 
 alighting from his carriage, he was attended to his apart- 
 ment by Henry Nevil, the colonel, and his two sons, who 
 all made their obeisance to him. His highness passed 
 on immediately to the saloon, where he found the two 
 daughters and the wife of the colonel, to whom he paid 
 his compliments, spending the greater part of the evening 
 
278 
 
 in conversation. At supper-time, his higliness took the 
 wife of the colonel by the hand, and the gentlemen, his 
 attendants, the two daughters, walking towards the room 
 in which the tables were set out, and the highest places 
 being left for the ladies, by way of shewing them the 
 most respectful politeness, his highness sat down, and 
 with him the gentlemen of his retinue, the colonel, and 
 Henry Nevil; his two sons supping in a room provided 
 ftfr that purpose with Thomas Piatt, and others of his 
 highness's suite. The supper was splendidly arranged 
 and nobly served, and they spent almost two hours at 
 table. When supper was over, his highness and his at- 
 tendants went back to their apartments, and the wife and 
 daughters of the colonel soon afterwards retired to rest. 
 
 Having heard mass on the morning of the 16th, in his 
 own apartment, his highness went down stairs, and strolled 
 indth Henry Nevil through the grounds into which the 
 grove around the house is divided, and returning into the 
 principal walk, which, being continued in a direct line 
 with the gate, renders the prospect of the country whick 
 terminates it much more beautiful. He viewed the most 
 considerable parts of the villa, and then returned to his 
 apartment, where breakfast was prepared with a magnifi- 
 X cence and elegance equal to that of the preceding evening's 
 
279 
 
 supper. The colonel's wife and her two daughters, the 
 gentlemen of his highness's retinue, Colonel Nevil, and 
 Henry his brother, sat down to table, and the same for- 
 malities were observed as the evening before. They passed 
 some time at table, drinking repeatedly, in several sorts of 
 Italian wine, according to the custom of the country, to 
 the health and happiness of the ladies; and they, in their 
 turn, replied in the most affable manner to the polite at- 
 tentions which they had experiened. When the tables 
 were removed, whilst preparatipns ; were making for his 
 departure, his highness paid his devoirs to the colonel's 
 wife and daughters, to whom he also made the most 
 particular acknowledgments for the kindness and cordiality 
 with which they had received him, and for the pleasure he 
 had enjoyed in their society. 
 
 I The villa of Bellingesbere stands in a valley, the usual 
 situation of all the country-houses in England, in orden 
 to defend them from the wind. In the structure of the 
 building, which is ancient, no other order has been made 
 use of than the Gothic ; the accommodations of the house 
 are, therefore, disposed in such a manner that no conve- 
 nience seems to be wanting. It has a court, bounded at 
 the sides by two branches of the building, and shut in on 
 another by a wall, in which is a gate leading into a spa- 
 
280 
 
 cious grass plot appropriated to the game of bowls. It is 
 surrounded by trees, which, being distributed in several 
 rows, form various alleys, which enable you to enjoy the 
 verdure of the surrounding wood, and facilitate the amuse- 
 ment of shooting pheasants, deer, and rabbits, which lat- 
 ter multiply there to a great extent, as do also the rooks, 
 which are considered in England as preserved birds, the 
 nobility priding themselves on seeing them in the neigh- 
 bourhood of their villas, and looking upon them as fowls 
 of good omen ; no one, therefore, is permitted to kill 
 them, under severe penalties. 
 
 In this villa. Colonel Nevil resides the greater part of 
 the year with his family, living with as much dignity 
 and splendour as any noble family in the kingdom, 
 although he has not too large an income, considering his 
 quality and condition, his annual revenue not exceeding 
 three thousand pounds sterling, an income far inferior to 
 that which is enjoyed by my Lord George Nevil Browne, 
 of Abergavenny, the head of the family, which is one of 
 the most ancient and distinguished in England, and was 
 in great estimation as far back as the time of King Richard 
 II., who dignified it with several titles of honor, many of 
 which have been transferred, by means of female inheritors, 
 into other families. 
 
\ 
 
 V 
 
 
 
281 
 
 In leaving Bellingesbere, hi§ highness pohtely resisted 
 the offers of the Messrs. Nevil, who had determined upon 
 accompanying him at least as far as Windsor; but at length 
 he was prevailed upon, by their repeated entreaties, to in- 
 dulge them, by suffering them to attend him, and accord- 
 ingly took them into his carriage. The road at first lay 
 through woods, frequently intersected by meadows, but it 
 afterwards changed into a corn country, thickly set with 
 trees, till they came to Windsor, a populous town in the 
 county of Bercheria, called by the English Berkshire, 
 standing on the side of a hill, which, gently rising in the 
 midst of a spacious and smiling champaign, has, on its 
 top, an ancient and strong castle of stone, built in me- 
 ?nory of his birth, byKing Edward III., with the assistance 
 of William Wickham, Bishop of Winchester. It contains 
 within its walls the royal mansion, than which the kings 
 of England have not a more delightful residence, divided 
 into apartments and halls for the banquets, which are ce- 
 lebrated at the time that the Knights of the Order of the 
 Garter hold their assemblies there; and on the side looking 
 towards the Thames, which flows at a little distance in a 
 copious stream, a noble gallery has been added by Queen 
 Elizabeth, which commands a prospect both of the river 
 
 and of the plain. Amongst the things most worthy of 
 
 o o 
 
282 
 
 observation, is the church, over against the principal en- 
 trance, which was formerly dedicated by King Edward III. 
 to the Blessed Virgin, and to St. George of Cappadocia, 
 the tutelary Saint of England and Protector of the Order 
 of the Garter, and afterwards much embellished by King 
 Edward IV. This temple is built according to the rules 
 of the Gothic order, and is divided into three aisles, which 
 have all flat roofs, adorned with arabesques, and in the 
 middle aisle, which is superior to the others both in width 
 and height, is situated the choir; on both sides of this, 
 are stalls appropriated to the knights of the Garter, to 
 which are affixed the arms of all those who have been 
 enrolled in the order from the time of its first institution ; 
 and, amongst these, are enumerated many emperors, 
 kings, and foreign princes. Over each stall are the coats 
 of arms of the present knights, surmounted with the dia- 
 dem or bonnet (coronet) denoting their individual dignity, 
 or else with some other token indicating their rank; and 
 there is also a banner hung up with the arms of the knight 
 and his sword. The seat of the king, situated in the first 
 place as you enter the choir, is distinguished from the rest 
 by a canopy of purple velvet. In front of the choir are 
 the tribune and the altar, on which stand the candlesticks 
 and the books, which are made use of when the English 
 
S8J 
 
 Liturgy is read, but according to the custom of that sect, 
 there is no other ornament whatever. The chapel called 
 Cardinal Wolsey's, which is within the church, is in repute 
 rather, perhaps, from the remembrance of the individual 
 who built it, than from the nobleness of the building, or 
 its peculiar elegance. 
 
 '^ 'The Order of the Garter was instituted by King Ed- 
 ward III., son of Edward II., and is held in such esteem, 
 that the most distinguished personages in Europe have 
 always been ambitious of being members of it. The 
 cause of its institution is attributed to an accident which 
 happened to Johanna, Countess of Salisbury, whose garter, 
 being loose, fell oflf in the presence of the said King Ed- 
 ward, who immediately took it up; and, as the gentlemen 
 present took occasion to suspect and put a sinister inter- 
 pretation upon this action, the king, turning to them, said, 
 " Honi soit qui mal y pense," adding briefly, that that 
 garter would some day be held by them in the highest 
 honour, as happened shortly after by the institution of the 
 Order which took its appellation from this very garter. 
 Some, however, wishing to assign to it a more honourable 
 and specious origin, ascribe it to King Richard I. (reserv- 
 ing to King Edward III. the credit only of reducing the 
 number of knights) that the reputation of an Order, ren- 
 
 O O J 
 
284 
 
 dered illustrious by so many distinguished personages^ 
 might not be debased by the recollection of so low an 
 origin. In it, under King Henry VIII., before he had 
 renounced his allegiance to the Catholic Church, were 
 enrolled Charles V., Emperor; Ferdinand, King ofHun-f 
 gary; Francis I., King of France; Emanuel, King of Por- 
 tugel ; James, King of Scotland, and Julian de Medici, 
 brother of Pope Leo X, In the reign of King Edward 
 VI., son of King Henry VIII. and Jane Seymour, it 
 reckoned among its members Henry II., King of France: 
 in the reign of Queen Mary, daughter of the same Henry 
 yiJL, Philip II., King of Spain, and Emanuel Philip, 
 Duke of Savoy : and under Queen Elizabeth, also daughter 
 of Henry VIII. and Anne Boleyn, Maximilian, Emperor ; 
 Charles, and Henry III., King of France, the last Catholic 
 Princes in the number of the Knights of the Garter; for^ 
 jn the times of King James I., Charles I., and Charles IL, 
 they have been objected to. 
 
 The Society of the Order of the Garter is composed of 
 twenty-six knights, of whom the King of England is the 
 sovereign and head ; of twelve canons with a dean, who 
 live together in the prebendal houses adjoining the church; 
 of twelve vicars, and twenty-six poor knights, who are 
 maintained out of the revenues of a college erected there. 
 
285 
 
 on condition of praying daily for the knights of the Order** 
 The Bishop of Winchester, is prelate of the Order, a dig-* 
 nity which is united to that see, and is now held by Dr. 
 George Morley. There is also a chancellor, and a regis-* 
 trar, which office is filled by the dean of the chapel of St; 
 George, at Windsor. The society is regulated by parti- 
 cular constitutions and statutes, which prescribe the cere-^ 
 monies to be observed at the creation of the knights, and 
 contain their privileges and obligations. 
 
 None are admitted into this Order but persons illustrious 
 for their birth or valour. They are obliged always to wear 
 a garter of blue ribbon round the left leg, and are expressly 
 forbidden to go out into public without this badge, under 
 a penalty of two crowns, which is the perquisite of the 
 officer of the Order, who denounces them; and a ribbon 
 of the same colour round the neck, to which is suspended 
 a medal with the figure of St. George: and by a regula-* 
 tion made in the year 1626, the knights are to wear on 
 their cloak, coat, or great coat, on the left side, in all 
 places and it all companies, the arms of St. George, 
 which are a cross with the garter, to which is appended: 
 a star with rays, made in relievo of silver. 
 
 The dress which the knights wear on public and solemn 
 occasions, is a cloak or long mantle, reaching to the 
 
Me 
 
 ground, with a magnificent train of rich silk of a sky-blue 
 colour, flowered with gold, open in front, and fastened at 
 the neck with two cords of silk and gold, with tassels of 
 the same; they have a sword by their sides, and from the 
 neck hangs the collar of the order, which is a necklace 
 composed of roses of enameled gold, linked together and 
 ornamented with jewels, from the centre of which is sus- 
 pended the figure of St. George; on the left leg is worn 
 a sky-blue garter, on which, in characters made of gold 
 and jewels, is inscribed the motto of the order, " Honi 
 soit qui mal y pense." In this dress the knights assem- 
 ble at Windsor on the anniversary of the feast of St. 
 George, the protector of the Order, the king being present 
 as grand master; and when the church-service is over, they 
 offer at the altar certain pieces of gold coin, which are re- 
 ceived by the Bishop of Winchester, the prelate of the 
 order, and afterwards walk in procession to the hall, where 
 the banquet is prepared with regal magnificence. The 
 king sits under a canopy in the front part of the hall, 
 dressed in the habit of the Order ; and the knights, in the 
 same dress, stand at a table a little way from that of 
 the king, taking place according to the date of their ad- 
 mission. 
 
 The present Knights of the Garter are as follow, 
 
287 
 
 being named according to their places in the chapel of 
 Windsor, which they take according to seniority. 
 
 Charles II. King of England, Sovereign of the Order, 
 has the first place in the chapel, on the right hand as you 
 enter. 
 
 The place opposite to that of the king was vacant, 
 being reserved for the eldest son of his majesty. 
 
 The places on the side of the king are filled by the 
 following knights: — ; 
 
 2. James, Duke of York, the king's. brother. 
 
 3. Prince Robert, brother of the Elector Palatine of 
 the Rhine. 
 
 4. Frederick William, Margrave and Elector of Bran- 
 denburg. 
 
 5. My Lord James Cecil, Earl of Salisbury. 
 
 6. My Lord Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland. 
 
 7. My Lord George, Duke of Buckingham. 
 
 8. My Lord George Digby, Earl of Bristol. 
 
 9. General Count Marsin. 
 
 10. My Lord Edward Montagu, Earl of Sandwich. 
 
 11. My Lord Charles Stuart, Duke of Richmond. 
 
 12. My Lord William Wentworth, Earl of Stratford. 
 
 13. This place is vacant. 
 
288 
 
 On tlie side opposite, after the stall reserved for the king's 
 eldest son, follow those of the undermentioned knights : 
 
 2. Prince Charles Louis, Elector Palatine of the 
 Rhine, 
 
 3. William Henry of Nassau, Prince of Orange. 
 
 4. The Prince of Denmark. 
 
 5. My Lord Thomas Howard, Earl of Berkshire. 
 
 6. My Lord James Butler, Duke of Ormond. 
 
 7. My Lord William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle. 
 
 8. The Prince of Taranto. 
 
 9. My Lord George Monk, Duke of Albermarle. 
 
 10. My Lord Aubry de Vere, Earl of Oxford. 
 
 11. My Lord Edward Montagu, Earl of Manchester. 
 
 12. My Lord James Scott, Duke of Monmouth. 
 
 13. This place, which is vacant, makes up the num- 
 ber of the twenty-six stalls of the Knights of the Garter. 
 
 When his highness had seen every thing contained in 
 the castle, — which is defended by a garrison, and well sup- 
 plied by artillery, and commands the whole of that exten- 
 siye plain, whose beauty, independently of the fertility of 
 the land, is enhanced by the river Thames, which flows 
 through it, and is navigable, — he took leave in form of the 
 Messrs. Nevil, who, that they might shew every possible 
 
289 
 
 respect towards his highness, had insisted lipoA accompai 
 nying him to Windsor, and, entering his carriage, took 
 the road through the park. This was annexed to the 
 castle by Queen Ehzabeth, who frequently resorted to 
 Windsor, to enjoy the pleasantness of the place, and to 
 amuse herself with hunting the deer, which are found there 
 in great abundance, and of many species ; on which ac- 
 count also, the present king repairs thither, sevieral times 
 a-year, for the diversion of hunting them. Passing over 
 a wooden bridge at Oakingham, his highness arrived 
 at Staines, and leaving the road on the right hand, which 
 leads to Hampton Court, a royal villa twelve miles from 
 London, begun by Cardinal Wolsey with great magni- 
 ficence, and completed by King Henry VHI., he was met, 
 in the neighbourhood of Kingston, by my Lord Henry 
 Howard of Norfolk, Earl of Arundel, who, having paid 
 his compliments, was made to get into his highness's car- 
 riage, and they pursued their journey as far as Kingston 
 Bridge, where a covered boat was prepared to attend his 
 highness ; quitting his carriage, therefore, he sailed down 
 the Thames, taking with him, his principal attendants, 
 and ordering the rest of his suite to take the direct road 
 by land to London. When they had passed Brentford, 
 two other boats came after that of his highness, having on 
 
 p p 
 
290 
 
 board a splendid and abundant collation, provided by the 
 Earl of Arundel, which, being transferred into the latter 
 in the most orderly and best regulated manner possible, 
 served to refresh and entertain his highness during his 
 sail on the river, which terminated in the evening at 
 Whitehall. His highness there disembarked, and hav- 
 ing changed his country-dress in the apartments of my 
 Lord Philip Howard, immediately went to the queen's 
 cabinet, to pay his respects to their majesties. He found 
 in the circle with them, as usual, the Duke of York, who, 
 •as well as their majesties, on seeing his highness, received 
 him with the greatest demonstrations of friendship, con- 
 gratulating him on his return, and introducing a conver- 
 sation, which lasted a considerable time, on the tour made 
 by his highness, and on all that he had seen during his ex- 
 cursion. The representatives of the princes and the 
 other gentlemen who were in the cabinet, paid their com- 
 pliments, on this occasion, to his highness, who, after re- 
 turning their politeness with peculiar courtesy, returned 
 home, and supped alone in his apartment. 
 %■ With a view of resting himself a little, his highness re- 
 mained at home on the morning of the 17th, and heard 
 Aias^, but, after dinner, rode out in his carriage through 
 the city, and in the evening repaired to Hyde Park, and 
 
291 
 
 afterwards to the palace of Whitehall, to the apartments 
 of the Duchess of York, to pay a visit to her royal high- 
 ness, and thence to the queen's cabinet, to the usual 
 entertainment, and then returned home. 
 
 Early in the morning of the 18th, his highness, after 
 hearing mass, gave audience to my Lord John Hastings, 
 Earl of Huntingdon ; Sir Thomas Clifford, treasurer of 
 the king's household; and James Hamilton, gentleman of 
 the bedchamber ; who had come to pay their respects to 
 him. After which he went in his carriage to the house 
 of Mr. Robert Boyle, whose works have procured him the 
 reputation of being one of the brightest geniuses in Eng- 
 land, This gentleman not only reduced to practice his 
 observations on natural philosophy, in the clearest and most 
 methodical manner, rejecting the assistance of scholastic 
 disputations and controversies, and satisfying the curiosity 
 with physical experiments, but, prompted by his natural 
 goodness, and his anxiety to communicate to nations 
 the most remote and idolatrous the information neces- 
 sary to the knowledge of God, caused translations of 
 the Bible into the Oriental languages to be printed and 
 circulated, in order to make them acquainted with the 
 Scriptures; and has endeavoured still further to lead the 
 
 most rude and vicious to moral perfection, by various 
 
 pp fl 
 
29^ 
 
 works, which lie has himself composed. Indeed, if in 
 his person the true belief had been united with the 
 correctness of a moral life, nothing would have remained 
 to be desired ; but this philosopher, having been born and 
 brought up in heresy, is necessarily ignorant of the prin- 
 ciples of the true religion, knowing the Roman Catholic 
 church only by the controversial books of the Anglican 
 sect, of which he is a most strenuous defender, and a most 
 constant follower; his blindness, therefore, on this subject, 
 is no way compatible with his great erudition. He shewed 
 his highness, with an ingenious pneumatic instrument 
 invented by himself, and brought to perfection by Chris- 
 tian Huygens of Zuylichem, many beautiful experiments to 
 discover the effect of the rarefaction and compression of 
 the air upon bodies, by observing what took place with 
 animals when exposed to it: and hence may be learned 
 the cause of rheumatisms, catarrhs, and other contagious 
 disorders produced by air, and of various natural indisposi- 
 tions. It was curious to see an experiment on the change of 
 colours; two clear waters, on being poured into one another, 
 becoming red, and by the addition of another red, becom- 
 ing clear again ; and the experiment of an animal shut up 
 in a vacuum, and the whole exposed to the pressure of the 
 air. There m as an instrument which shews of itself the 
 
293 
 
 changes of the air which take place in the twenty-four 
 hours, of wind, rain, cold, and heat, by means of a watch, 
 a thermometer, a mariner's compass, and a small sail like 
 that of a windmill, which sets an hand in motion, that 
 makes marks with a pencil as it goes round; there was 
 also another instrument of a most curious construction, 
 by means of which a person who has never learned may 
 draw any object whatever. He shewed also to his high- 
 ness, amongst other curiosities, certain lenses of a single 
 glass, worked facet- wise, which multiplied objects ; a globe 
 of the moon of a peculiar construction, and several other 
 things worthy of attention. Having gratified his curiosity 
 in the most agreeable manner, and it being now near 
 noon, his highness returned home; and there came to 
 dine with him, besides his own gentlemen, my Lord 
 
 Huntingdon, Sir Clifford, and Henry Nevil. After 
 
 dinner his highness went to see the house lately built by 
 the Lord Chancellor, my Lord Hyde, Duke of Clarendon, 
 father-in-law of the Duke of York, to which the people, 
 with whom he has incurred great odium, have given the 
 name of Dunkirk House; for, they consider him the 
 cause of the city of Dunkirk having been sold to France, 
 a place of great importance to the pretensions made to 
 that country and to the provinces of Flanders, and one of 
 
294 
 
 the safest ports in Europe, vessels being able to enter it 
 in all winds ; by this appellation, therefore, they mean to 
 insinuate, that the money which he gained by the nego- 
 tiations had been employed in the building of this palace. 
 It is in an advantageous situation, which increases its 
 magnificence, being in front of a wide street, leading down 
 to St. James's Palace, which is directly opposite to it. Its 
 form is square; on the outside, from being embellished 
 with stone ornaments, regularly disposed according to the 
 rules of architecture, it is extremely light and cheerful, 
 and in the interior, commodious and sumptuous. From 
 the inner part you descend into the garden, surrounded, 
 in its whole extent, by walls, which support flourishing 
 espaliers, formed of various fruit-trees; these render the 
 view very agreeable, although the garden has no other 
 ornament, than compartments of earth filled with low and 
 beautiful parterres and spacious walks; over which, in order 
 to keep them smooth and level, they roll certain heavy 
 cylindrical stones, to keep the grass down. At present, 
 this house, in consequence of the contumacy of the lord 
 chancellor, who has been banished from the kingdom, is in- 
 corporated with the royal domains, and is at the king's dis- 
 posal. The lord chancellor was a lawyer, his first employ- 
 ment having been that of an advocate, and he was well 
 
 • 
 
295 
 
 versed in every thing except polite learning; he secretly 
 professed the tenets of the Presbyterian sect, but in appear- 
 ance adhered to the established religion of the kingdom. 
 
 From this place, as he was on the road to Hyde Park, 
 his highness went thither, and having taken a few turn^ 
 set off for Whitehall; going to the queen's apartments, his 
 highness was introduced into the bed-chamber, whither 
 her majesty had retired, on account of her pregnancy, and 
 was amusing herself at play with some ladies. His high- 
 ness made his obeisance to her majesty, and having re- 
 mained there a short time, before returning home, ad- 
 journed to the apartments of the Duchess of York, and 
 thence went home immediately, and supped alone. 
 
 On the morning of the 19th, when his highness had 
 finished his devotions and heard mass, he received my 
 Lord Oliver St. John, Earl of Bolingbroke, Sir WilUam 
 Morton, and my Lord John Paulet, Baron Paulet, who 
 had come on a complimentary visit ; and after spending 
 some time in conversation with them, set off in his car- 
 riage along with Colonel Gascoyne and Sir Cas^ 
 
 tiglioni, on a tour through the city, and went to see the 
 New Exchange, which is not far from the place of the 
 Common Garden (Covent Garden) in the great street 
 called the Strand, The building has a facade of stqi^e, 
 
S96 
 
 built after the Gothic style, which has lost its colour from 
 age, and is become blackish. It contains two long and 
 double galleries, one above the other, in which are dis- 
 tributed, in several rows, great numbers of very rich shops 
 of drapers and mercers, filled with goods of every kind, 
 and with manufactures of the most beautiful description. 
 These are, for the most part, under the care of well-dressed 
 women, who are busily employed in work; although many 
 are served by young men, called apprentices, who, in 
 order to qualify themselves for this craft or business, are 
 obliged to serve their master for a certain time, not only 
 in the shop, but in the house and out of doors, at his 
 discretion; nor can they claim any exemption, except on 
 certain specified days in the year, on which, being freed 
 from all subjection towards their masters, they do what- 
 ever they choose ; and so great is their number, that, 
 in order to prevent the inconveniences which might arise, 
 the government of the city finds it necessary, by a parti- 
 cular provision, to oblige the heads of the houses in every 
 street to keep on foot a certain number of men, armed 
 with spears, at the head of the street, by way of prevent- 
 ing the insolence of the apprentices on the days in which 
 this freedom is allowed them, which are at the Easter and 
 Whitsuntide holidays, and some others, according to the 
 
^ 
 
 297 
 
 custom of the city, for uniting together to the number of 
 ten thousand (and they are supposed to amount to that 
 number or more) they divide themselves into separate 
 parties, and spread over the different quarters of the city, 
 meditating and frequently accomplishing the annoyance 
 of the public, as it may suit their fancy, taking confidence 
 from their numbers, and from the cudgels which they 
 hold in their hands (the carrying any other sort of weapon 
 being prohibited) and this they push to such an extent, 
 that it frequently happens, that the authority of my Lord 
 Mayor has not been able to restrain their headstrong rash- 
 ness; and even towards this magistrate they have not unfre- 
 quently failed in proper respect, and have treated him 
 with contempt and derision. 
 
 From the Exchange his highness went in his carriage 
 to the palace of Somerset, called Somerset House, situated 
 in the square of the same name, where is to be seen a pole 
 crowned with a royal diadem, erected there in the year 
 1660, when Charles II. was restored to the kingdom. 
 This palace is situated on the banks of the Thames ; its 
 front looks towards the Strand, that is, the street of the 
 New Exchange; and behind is a garden, which terminates 
 at the river in a grove of elms, divided in the usual 
 manner into walks, for the convenience of promenad- 
 
298 
 
 ing, and for affording a grateful shade to those who 
 amuse themselves with looking at the boats which are 
 continually passing and repassing on the water. The 
 apartments are well arranged, so as to constitute a 
 noble habitation, besides the offices necessary for inferior 
 purposes. In it the queen mother established her court 
 on her return from France to England, after the king her 
 son was restored to the throne, and remained there till the 
 year 1665, when she returned to France. Near the 
 palace is the royal chapel, to which a convent of French 
 Capuchins is attached ; in which there reside a warden, 
 seven religious, who are priests, and two lay-brothers, wha 
 are obliged to officiate daily in the chapel, and to preach 
 every Sunday and holiday, at the expense of her majesty^ 
 who allows for their maintenance an annual revenue of 
 five hundred pounds sterling. These fathers strictly observe 
 the discipline of their order, wearing within the convent 
 the usual religious habit, which they lay aside whenever, 
 eithei: from necessity or on the service of the Catholics, 
 tlfey ate obliged to go out into the city, on which occa- 
 sions they put on a modest secular habit. The Abbe Mon- 
 taign, her majesty's grand almoner, brother of the Earl of 
 Manchester, has the siiperintendance of the royal chapel ; 
 and subordinate to him are Fatlier Lambert, a French- 
 
299 
 
 man, the queen's confessor, Father Gough, an Englisl^ 
 man, chaplain of the private chapel, and the afore-men- 
 tioned Capuchins. 
 
 The queen, besides her dower, has an annual pension, 
 which the king pays her, so that her whole income is 
 about eighty thousand pounds sterling, which she employs 
 in keeping up a becoming appearance, and maintaining a 
 court, which is well regulated, and composed of members 
 distinguished for their birth and merit. The situation of 
 steward of her household, together with that of captain 
 of the guard, is held by my Lord Henry Germain, Earl of 
 St. Albans, who, above all other individuals, has been 
 loaded with benefits by her majesty; and on his pleasure 
 the whole government of the royal house is said to de- 
 pend. On this account, she does not possess the affec- 
 tion of the English, who are not pleased that such con- 
 siderable sums of money should be dr4wn out of the 
 kingdom of England to be spent in that of France, in 
 consequence of the queen's permanent residence there, and 
 a great part of which will only benefit the Earl of St 
 Albans. This nobleman is in favor with the king, for 
 having assisted in tranquillizing the mind of the queett 
 mother, who was much disgusted at the marriage of the 
 Duke of York with the eldest daughter of the Earl of 
 
300 
 
 Clarendon, against whom she had conceived an almost 
 irreconcileable hatred. It was only by the address ot 
 Lord Germain, in representing to the queen the king's 
 satisfaction at the marriage, the reciprocal affection which 
 subsisted between her sons, the union of the royal family, 
 and the great services the lord chancellor had rendered to 
 the crown, that she was persuaded to be reconciled to it, 
 and to suppress her displeasure. In the absence of the 
 Earl of St. Albans, M. Vautelet supplies his place, with 
 the title of vice-steward of the household ; the office of 
 master of the horse is in the hands of my Lord Henry 
 Arundel, Baron Arundel of Wardour, Count of the Em- 
 pire, which title was obtained by this family (which is the 
 true house of Arundel, the others being called Arundel 
 of the family of Howard) from the Emperor Rodolph, for 
 the valour shewn against the Turks by John Arundel 
 in the battle of Huegonia. Of the other offices about her 
 court, the highest are entrusted to persons of distinguished 
 rank, and the inferior ones to those of less consideration. 
 The old Duchess of Richmond, sister of my Lord Villars, 
 Duke of Buckingham, who is re-married into the family 
 of my Lord Ward, is employed in the service of her ma- 
 jesty's bed-chamber, as first lady of honor, and the 
 Countess of Newport, in the situation of keeper of the 
 
30t 
 
 jewels ; and both these ladies have others under them, to 
 whom different charges are assigned. 
 
 His highness next viewed the palace of Somerset, which 
 had been intended by the king for his residence during 
 his stay in London; but the incog, which he had observed 
 in all other courts prevented him from accepting this 
 public testimony of respect shewn to him by his majest}'. 
 He sawlikewise the church, the convent, and the garden 
 contained within its precincts, and thence returning home, 
 there came to dine with him, besides the gentlemen of his 
 own suite, my Lord St. John, my Lord Paulet, my Lord 
 Philip Howard, and Henry Nevil. The latter, after diur* 
 ner, caused to be brought to his highness a telescope, of 
 a size never before seen, whose field takes in almost all the 
 horizon. With this, his highness amused himself for 
 some time, and, when it began to grow late, went out, to 
 renew his visits to the ladies who had made acquaintance 
 with him at the Mall in Hyde Park, and in the evening, 
 adjourned to tlie palace, to continue his respectful atten- 
 tions towards their majesties. 
 
 On the morning of the 20th, he heaixl mass, as on other 
 days ; and in the meantime, there came to pay their re- 
 spects to his highness, who received them with the great- 
 est kindness and affability, my Lord William Paget, 
 
302 
 
 Baron Paget and Beaufort ; my Lord Francis Newporij 
 
 Baron Newport ; Sir Savil, brother of my Lord 
 
 George Savil; Viscount Halifax; Sir Edward Waller ; 
 my Lord William Cavendish, Earl of Devonshire; my 
 Lord John Mohun, Baron Mohun and Okehampton ; 
 and my Lord James Touchet, Baron Arundel and High* 
 leigh. With these, his highness spent almost the whole 
 of the morning in conversation, so that there was but a 
 short time left for him to take a tour through the city 
 before dinner ; nevertheless, he went in his carriage to the 
 College of the Temple, that is, of the Knights Templars, 
 who, before their suppression by Pope Clement V., used 
 to reside there ; and on the pavement of the small church 
 belonging to it, there are still to be seen many figures in 
 basso relievo, representing several of these knights in 
 armour, with the badges of their Order, from which the 
 name was taken. The gate of London, which is contiguous 
 to it, serves at present as a residence for some collegians, 
 who study the ancient Norman language, in which are 
 written the laws of the kingdom relating to the adminis* 
 tration of justice ; there are many masters appointed to 
 instruct them, and to qualify them for pleaders. On his 
 return, he passed by the Place of the Common Garden, 
 which is in a square, or rather higher ground than the 
 
503 
 
 New Exchange. Two sides are occupied by houses, one 
 by the fa9ade of a church, in a good style of architecture, 
 and the other, by the garden of the palace of the Earl of 
 Bedford, the trees of which project over the walls, they 
 not being raised much from the ground ; and in the 
 middle of the place or square is erected a pillar, on which 
 are several sun-dials, which serve for emblems, enlivened 
 by various mottoes, one of which, alluding to the hours, 
 says " Pereunt et imputantur." His highness theit 
 returned home ; and there dined with him some of thos6 
 lords and gentlemen who had been a little before to pay 
 their respects to him, and his own retinue as usual. After 
 dinner, he again went out in his carriage, extending his 
 drive to the most distant parts of the city, as far a^ 
 Moorfields, a place composed of two large inclosed 
 squares ; this leads to a second, and that again to a thirds 
 which are surrounded by abundance of mulberry trees, 
 and add much to the agreeableness of the space of 
 ground occupied by this grand place, which is appro^ 
 priated to the sale of horses. His highness next went to 
 a place where was the ancient house of the Grand Prior of 
 England of the religion of Malta, suppressed in tliis king- 
 dom by King Henry VHI. in the year 1540, the reve- 
 nues being made over to the royal treasury, of which he 
 
304 
 
 deprived William Westa, at that time grand prior, and at 
 the same time all the knights of the Order, who held them 
 in commendam. No memorial of them now remains, 
 except some arms of the Order engraved on stone, and 
 left, in their original situations, on the wall of a tower 
 adjoining the house of the priory. After this excursion 
 through the city, his highness went to the comedy at the 
 Puke's theatre, and in the evening to Whitehall, to con- 
 tinue his attentions to their majesties and royal higli- 
 nesses; and he was here informed of the entertainment 
 which the king had prepared for him on the following 
 day in Hyde Park, by commanding a review of his guard, 
 both foot and horse. Returning home in good time, he 
 retired to supper. 
 
 His highness, on the 21st of May, having heard mass 
 at an early hour, went in his carriage to Hyde Park, the 
 place appointed by his majesty for the review of the sol- 
 diers, where, alighting from his carriage, he mounted his 
 horse, and rode, with his attendants and Colonel Gascoyne, 
 to the spot where the greatest concourse of people and 
 carriages were assembled, awaiting the arrival of his ma- 
 jesty. The latter shortly after entered Hyde Park on 
 horseback, accompanied by the Duke of York and Prince 
 Robert, and followed by many lords and gentlemen of 
 
305 
 
 the court. His highness, with his suite, pushed forward 
 to meet his majesty, who with a numerous retinue was 
 riding round the field. The Duke of York, on seeing 
 his highness, saluted him first. His highness perceiving 
 his poHteness, returned the compHment, and, joining hini, 
 rode after his majesty, who having taken a view of the 
 soldiery that were arranged in the places assigned them 
 on either side, commanded them to march by in files, re- 
 tiring in the meantime with all his retinue to the shade 
 of the trees, to protect himself from the sun, and to observe 
 the march without interruption. The whole corps con- 
 sisted of two regiments of infantry, and one of cavalry, 
 and of three companies of the body guard, which was 
 granted to the king by Parliament since his return, and 
 formed of six hundred horsemen, each armed with cara- 
 bines and pistols, all well-mounted, and dressed in jackets 
 -which are uniform in every thing but colour ; they are 
 now, however, reduced to three hundred, the king having 
 the power of re-establishing them at pleasure. 
 
 The first, or king's own regiment of infantry, having 
 a white flag, with a red cross in the middle, commanded 
 by Colonel Russel, was composed of twelve companies 
 of eighty men each, who are encreased to three hundred 
 in time of war, all drest in red coats, turned up with light 
 
 RB 
 
306 
 
 blue (which is the colour of the royal livery) except the 
 pikemen, who are distinguished from the others by wear- 
 ing a coat of a silver colour, turned up with light blue. 
 
 The second regiment, that of General George Monk, 
 Duke of Albemarle, whose standard was green with six 
 white balls and a red cross, commanded by Colonel Miller, 
 was composed of fourteen companies, also of eighty men, 
 who wore red jackets with green facings, the pikemen 
 being in green faced with red. 
 
 The third regiment (of cavalry) that of the Earl of 
 Oxford, was formed of seven companies, of sixty men 
 each. 
 
 The first of the three companies of body guards, called 
 the King's Company, composed of gentlemen and half-pay 
 officers, drest in red jackets faced with blue, and richly 
 ornamented with gold lace, and wearing white feathers 
 in their hats, was commanded by the Duke of Mon- 
 mouth. 
 
 The second, called the Duke's, commanded by the 
 Marquis of Blandford, nephew of Marshal Turenne, wore 
 red jackets with blue facings without gold, and white 
 feathers in their hats, 
 
 Jj: ;The third, that of the General, whose place was supplied 
 by Sir Philip Howard, of the family of the Earl of Car- 
 
307 
 
 lisle, wore a dress similar to that of the duke's, and instead 
 of feathers a ribbon of a crimson colour. 
 
 Each of these companies has its lieutenant, who are 
 Sir Thomas Sandys, Sir Gilbert Gerard, Major-General 
 Egerton, and Sir George Hamilton. 
 
 They marched by in files, in sight of his majesty and 
 their highnesses. The vanguard consisted of the com- 
 pany of the Duke of Monmouth, who marched at its 
 head, in full dress. This was followed by the general's 
 company, and a troop of cavalry of the Earl of Oxford's 
 regiment. The infantry regiment of the king came next, 
 with six pieces of cannon ; that of General Monk follow* 
 ing ; which was succeeded by the regiment of cavalry of 
 Oxford ; the Duke of York's company forming the rear- 
 guard. 
 
 When they had marched by, without firing either a 
 volley or a salvo, his majesty dismounted from his horse, 
 and entering his carriage, with the Duke and Prince 
 Robert, returned to Whitehall; his highness going home, 
 and the soldiers being dismissed to their quarters. 
 
 The king of England, besides those called his body- 
 guards, has many guards in the palace, for the security of 
 his person, both foot and horse, who receive greater or 
 smaller pay in proportion to their duty. They are em- 
 
 H 
 
3oa 
 
 ployed to mount guard at the gates of the palace, both 
 on the side of St. James's Park and that of Whitehall 
 Place, and to escort his majesty whenever he goes out on 
 horseback or in his carriage through the city. 
 
 In the hall called the Guard-Room, is the guard of the 
 Manica or sleeve (yeomen of the guard) consisting of two 
 hundred and fifty very handsome men, the tallest and 
 strongest that can be found in England ; they are called, 
 in jest, Beef-ealers, that is, eaters of beef, of which a con- 
 siderable portion is allowed them by the court every day. 
 These carry an halberd when they are in London, and in 
 thr'Ncountry a half-pike, with a broad sword by their 
 sides ; and, before the king had his body guard, they escort- 
 ed bis carriage. They are dressed in a livery of red cloth, 
 made according to the ancient fashion, and faced with 
 black velvet ; they wear on their back the king's cipher 
 in embroidery, that is, Charles Rex., and on their breast 
 the white and red rose, the emblem of the royal family 
 ever since the union of the two Houses of York and Lan- 
 caster, which followed on the marriage of Henry VH. 
 -with Elizabeth, only daughter of Edward IV., first king 
 of the white rose. By means of this marriage, an end was 
 put to the ancient feuds between those two families, which, 
 1)y their quarrels, had long kept England divided against 
 
 •> 
 
309 
 
 jtself. Under the title of the White Rose, was designated 
 the House of York, and under that of the Red Rose, the 
 House of Lancaster. The duty of these guards is, 
 amongst other things, when the king eats in pubHc (which 
 he does three times a-week, viz. Sunday, Wednesday, and 
 Friday) to fetch the meat from the kitchen, and carry it 
 to the table, where it is taken from them, and placed 
 before his majesty by the gentlemen in attendance. The 
 captain of this guard is my Lord Grandison, and the lieu- 
 tenant, Thomas Howard, o^^i . . . . 
 The king has another guard, formed of fifty gentle- 
 men, called Pensioners, the greater part persons of birth 
 and quality, who carry a sort of pole-axe, in the form 
 of a halberd, ornamented with gold, and are under the 
 orders of a captain, who is my Lord Bellasyse, and 
 a lieutenant. Sir John Bennet. They are obliged to attend 
 the person of the king on all solemn occasions, such as 
 receiving ambassadors, and other public ceremonies; to 
 accompany him from the anti-chamber to the chapel, and 
 on his return from the chapel to the anti-chamber: it is 
 also their duty to serve his majesty as a body-guard 
 whenever he goes out into the city, or into the country,; 
 on these occasions, a party of them, well armed, folJowjs 
 his majesty; and the captain of the body-guard is obliged 
 
310 
 
 by his office to keep close to the king's person, particu- 
 larly at the moment when the king is mounting. 
 
 The regiment of infantry nearest the city supplies the 
 guards, who are changed every day, at the palaces of 
 Whitehall and St. James, and at the Tower of London. 
 That of the Duke of York, which is called the Regiment 
 of Marines, is generally quartered at the sea-ports, and in 
 case of war is the first to embark on board the fleet, over 
 which the lord high admiral presides. This is considered 
 the first office in the kingdom, and is, therefore, held by 
 the Duke of York. 
 
 'I The building and equipment of all the ships of war, 
 which form the small fleets that sail up and down for the 
 protection of the Channel, and hover about the Straits for 
 the security of the Mediterranean trade, is paid for by the 
 king out of his ordinary revenue, the Parliament contri- 
 buting extraordinary sums of money only when it is neces- 
 sary to send great and royal fleets to sea. The captains 
 of the ships have not permanent situations, but are move- 
 able at the king's pleasure, as are likewise the admirals. 
 The latter dignity is conferred upon sailors of the greatest 
 experience, or indeed upon distinguished soldiers, such 
 as Admirals Penn, Allen, Smith, Edhams, &c. The 
 royal fleet is divided into three squadrons, the red, the 
 
311 
 
 blue, and the white ,* of these, the red takes precedence- 
 Each is composed of a determinate number of ships, with 
 three officers belonging to it, the admiral, vice-admiral, 
 and rear-admiral, who are called, by the English, Flag 
 Officers, from the flag they carry ; the first hoisting it on 
 the mainmast, the second on the foremast, and the third 
 on the mizJenmast. 
 
 His highness, having remained at home some time 
 alter his return from Hyde Park, went put again, and, with 
 
 Colonel Gascoyne and Sir Castiglioni, went for the 
 
 first time to dine at my Lord Montagu's, Earl of Man- 
 chester, whose invitation his highness had anticipated by 
 voluntarily offering the honor of his company, and he 
 was accordingly treated with all possible attention and 
 splendor. He passed the renaainder of the day in visits, 
 going in the evening to Whitehall to the queen's cabinet, 
 and thence home, where he supped alone. 
 . Before leaving home on the 22d, his highness heard 
 mass, and then rode in his carriage through the city, 
 observing his customary indispensable incog.; and, at- 
 tended by Sir Castiglioni and Colonel Gascoyne, 
 
 went to St. James's Park, to see a machine which had 
 been erected there by the king's order, under the direct 
 tion of Sir Robert Morris, for the purpose of observing. 
 
with telescopes, the planet Saturn, and the satellites of 
 Jupiter. His majesty is much devoted to the study of 
 mechanics, mathematics, natural history, and chemistry : 
 on which account he sent for a skilful professor of these 
 sciences from France, and has erected for him in St 
 James's Park a suitable building for carrying on his 
 operations and experiments. Nor is the king's curiosity 
 confined to these pursuits; but he takes peculiar pleasure 
 in experiments relating to navigation, of which he has a 
 very accurate knowledge; and pays great attention to 
 finding out what sorts of wood require the least depth 
 of water to float them, and what shapes are the best 
 adapted for cutting the water, and for making good 
 sailers. From the Park his highness went to the queen's 
 chapel at St. James's, and afterwards returned home, 
 and there dined with him, my Lord Philip, Henry Nevil, 
 and his own gentlemen. 
 
 Attended by Lord Philip, Nevil, Gascoyne, and Cas- 
 tiglioni, his highness went out in his carriage to see the 
 theatre appropriated to cock-fighting, a common amuse- 
 ment of the English, who even in the public streets take 
 a delight in seeing such battles ; and their partiality 
 towards these animals is carried to such an height, that 
 considerable bets, are made on the victory of the one or 
 
313 
 
 the other. To render the cocks fit for fighting, they se- 
 lect the best of the breed, cut off their crests and spurs, 
 keeping them in separate coops or walks, and mix with their 
 usual food pepper, cloves, and other aromatics, and the 
 yolks of eggs, to heat them, and render them more vigor- 
 ous in battle ; and when they want to bring them to the 
 trial, they convey them in a bag, put on artificial spurs, of 
 silver or steel, very long and sharp, and let them out at the 
 place appointed for the sport. As soon as the cocks are 
 put down, they walk round the field of battle with great 
 animation, each watching for an opportunity to attack his 
 rival with advantage. The first who is attacked places 
 himself in a posture of defence, now spreading himself 
 out, now falling, in his turn, on the assailant; and in the 
 progress of the contest, they are inflamed to such a pitch 
 of rage, that it is almost incredible to such as have never 
 •witnessed it with what fury each annoys his adversary, 
 striking one another on the head with their beaks, and 
 tearing one another with the spurs, till at length he that 
 feels himself superior, and confident of victory, mounts on 
 the back of his opponent, and never quits him, till he has 
 left him dead, and then, by a natural instinct, crows in 
 applause of his own victory. This amusement was not 
 jpew to his highness, for he had seen it on board ship, on 
 
 88 
 
314 
 
 his voyage from Spain to England, the two young volun- 
 teers who were on board frequently diverting themselves 
 with making two cocks fight, which they had previously 
 trained for the purpose. 
 
 Having taken a short drive through the city, ending at 
 Hyde Park, his highness, before he returned home, re- 
 paired to the palace, to pay his usual compliments to 
 their majesties and royal highnesses. 
 
 The whole of the morning of the 23d, he passed at 
 home, and went out after dinner in his carriage, with 
 
 Colonel Gascoyne and Sir Castiglioni, to one of 
 
 the principal dancing schools of the metropolis, frequented 
 both by unmarried and married ladies, who are instructed 
 by the master, and practise, with much gracefulness and 
 agility, various dances after the English fashion. Danc- 
 ing is a very common and favorite amusement of the 
 ladies in this country; every evening there are entertain- 
 ments at different places in the city, at which many 
 ladies and citizens' wives are present, they going to them 
 alone, as they do to the rooms of the dancing masters, at 
 which there are frequently upwards of forty or fifty ladies. 
 His highness had an opportunity of seeing several dances 
 in the English style, exceedingly well regulated, and exe-*- 
 cuted in the smartest and genteelest manner by very young 
 
 ;- 'J 
 
315 
 
 ladies, whose beauty and gracefulness were shewn off to 
 perfection by this exercise. This is a sufficient proof of the 
 liberty enjoyed by the ladies in London, who are not 
 prohibited from walking in the streets by night as well as 
 by day, without any attendance. By day they go on 
 foot, or in their carriages, either incog, with masks, or 
 without, as they think proper ; because it is not the cus- 
 tom to salute them more than once, not even in the Mall, 
 or Hyde Park, although they are acquaintances; and 
 they would be offended by a repetition of the salutation. 
 
 Having spent some time in this amusement, his high- 
 ness Went to see an hydraulic machine, raised upon a wooden 
 tower, in the neighbourhood of Somerset House, which is 
 used for conveying the water of the river to the greater part 
 of the city. It is put in motion by two horses, which are 
 continually going round, it not being possible that it 
 should receive its movement from the current of the river, 
 as in many other places where the rivers never vary in their 
 course; but this is not the case with the Thames, owing to 
 the tide ; consequently the wheels, which serve at the ebb, 
 would not be able to do their office when the tide returns. 
 • ^"His highness afterwards went to Hyde Park, and 
 thence to the queen's cabinet, who, on account of her 
 
 s s s 
 
316 
 
 pregnancy, was seated on a sofa, amusing herself at play 
 with some of her confidential ladies. 
 
 His highness passed the morning of the 24th in his 
 usual occupations, and in writing, and went out after 
 dinner to see the gladiators, or fencing masters, who, in 
 order to get reputation, give a general challenge, offering 
 twenty or thirty jacobuses, or more, to any one that 
 has a mind to fight with them. No person is admitted 
 into the theatre without first paying at the door, for the 
 benefit of the challenger, who thus, from the number of 
 curious persons who resort to the exhibition, receives 
 much more than he has presented to his antagonist. They 
 enter the lists, armed with a round shield and a sword 
 not sharpened, fighting with the edge, not with the point, 
 and by an understanding between them, they give over 
 as soon as blood is drawn, consequently it rarely happens 
 that they injure one another seriously; it cannot, however, 
 be denied that this sport has something barbarous in it. 
 
 His highness afterwards went to visit some ladies, that 
 he might not be deficient in manifesting the same polite- 
 ness towards them which he had shewn to others, whose 
 husbands had been to pay their respects to him. He 
 concluded the evening as usual at the palace. 
 
 -•;{J 
 
317 
 
 To satisfy his curiosity, his highness went again, on' 
 the morning of the 25th, to the house of Mr. Robert 
 Boyle, who had prepared other experiments in natural 
 philosophy for his amusement. He there found Mr. 
 Henry Oldenburg, secretary of the Royal Society. At 
 dinner-time, he returned home, and afterwards went out 
 to pay visits, repairing in the evening to Whitehall, as 
 usual. 
 
 .?'*On the morning of the 26th, having finished his de- 
 votions, his highness went in his carriage through the city, 
 extending his ride as far as the town-house, or palacf,* 
 called by the English Guildhall, which has nothing re- 
 markable in it. Continuing his excursion till dinner- 
 time, he returned home, and, having dined with the gen*-*' 
 tlemen of his retinue, spent the remainder of the day in 
 paying visits, and in Hyde Park, shewing himself, in the 
 evening, at the queen's apartments, and those of the 
 Duchess of York. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th, after hearing mass, his 
 higimesswent through the city, as far as London Bridge, 
 on which are erected many large buildings, almost half 
 of which escaped the fire there, and those which were con- 
 sumed have been rebuilt of smaller size, the upper part 
 
318 
 
 being used as dwellings, and the lower part as mercers' 
 shops, all of which are abundantly filled with goods of 
 various sorts. Having <ll*6i^ed the bridge with some dif- 
 ficulty, owing to the number of carts which are constantly 
 passing and repassing, he went to see the South side of 
 the city, which, in comparison, is very inconsiderable, and 
 inhabited for the most part by the lower orders. Near 
 the bridge, is the place where persons of quality are con- 
 fined, not only for debt, but also for criminal offences. 
 The government or superintendance of it is given by the 
 king as a mark of favor to some gentleman, who, if a 
 prisoner makes his escape, is himself obliged to pay the 
 debt, and all the penalties annexed to the crime ; and 
 therefore, there is an established rate, varying according 
 to the rank and quality of the individuals, which must 
 be paid to the superintendant on entering the prison. For 
 dukes, it is fiiSred at the sum of forty crowns ; for earls, at 
 thirty ; and for others, at a smaller sum ; besides the rent 
 of apartments, and the expense of victuals ; whence the 
 ahtiu at Value of this office is estimated at about twenty 
 thousand crowns to the superintendant. The prisoners 
 are not kept under confinement, but have liberty to take 
 a walk over the bridge, a promise being first exacted from 
 
319 
 
 them not to pass the limits, and to return to their post, 
 which they generally observe, and it very rarely happens 
 that they infringe upon the privilege. 
 
 As it was now near noon, his highness returned home, 
 and dined with his attendants and some English gentle- 
 men. He went out again to Highgate, to see a children's 
 ball, which, being conducted according to the English 
 custom, afforded great pleasure to ,^i^^highness, both ^rovu 
 the numbers, the manner, and the gracefulness of the 
 dancers. When it began to grow late, he went to the 
 Mall in Hyde Park, and thence to court ; and, having 
 gone through the usual complimentary forms, returned 
 home, and supped alone. 
 
 On the morning of the 28th, my Lord Henry Arling- 
 ton, secretary to the queen, wishing to return the honor 
 -which he had received in having dined at the serene princes 
 table, desired Colonel Gascoyne to intimate to his highness, 
 at a proper opportunity, his anxious wish to be permitted 
 to entertain him in his own house with that freedom 
 which the country allows. His highness condescended 
 to accept the invitation, following the example of the king 
 and the duke, who are in the habit of doing the same ; 
 for they are frequently seen in the private houses of gen- 
 tlemen at dinner and supper, divesting themselves, for the 
 
320 
 
 sake of recreation, of that reservedness which is indispen- 
 sably observed at most other courts, where it is by no 
 means permitted to attend similar entertainments. 
 
 At the proper hour, his highness went with Sir 
 
 Castiglioni and Colonel Gascoyne to dine with my Lord 
 Arlington, who received and waited upon his highness 
 with the most profound respect. The table was set out 
 after the English manner, with all possible splendor ; and 
 besides his highness, who was in the seat of honor, and 
 his two gentlemen, other noblemen were present, who were 
 seated round the table, and drank frequently toasts to the 
 happiness of his highness, which altogether rendered the 
 banquet highly agreeable. Dinner being over, and the 
 guests left at liberty, his highness retired, and, after a little 
 repose, got into a boat, and crossing the Thames, landed 
 on the other side, and went to see Lambeth-palace, the re- 
 sidence of the Archbishop of Canterbury, situated within 
 view of London. It is here that this prelate usually resides, 
 from being obliged to be always near the court, and also 
 that he may be in readiness for his ecclesiastical functions, 
 and for his duties as one of the king's privy council. A 
 private boat, of a noble shape, and ornamented with the 
 ensign of his dignity, is always on the river, in which he 
 can at any moment cross over to Whitehall, which is 
 
321 
 
 nearly opposite. The mansion contains, besides a com- 
 modious but ill-arranged habitation for the archbishop, 
 an extensive library, in which are hung the portraits of 
 the archbishops, ancient and modern; and a garden suf- 
 ficiently pleasant, though not of extraordinary beaut3% 
 The Archbishop of Canterbury is Primate of England, 
 being superior to the Archbishop of York, who, by the 
 decision of a national Synod, is bound to obey his orders. 
 He is the first peer of the realm, and takes place in all 
 assemblies immediately after the royal family, having pre- 
 cedence not only of dukes, but also of all the great offi- 
 cers of the crown. His office is to crown the king, and 
 to attend the court on all occasions and in all places, the 
 king and queen being his domestic parishioners. More 
 particularly subordinate to him are, the Bishops of Lon- 
 don, as provincial dean, of Winchester, as his chancellor, 
 and of Rochester, who is entitled his chaplain. To the 
 other prerogatives which the archbishop enjoys, Henry 
 yni., after his separation from the Catholic church, added 
 the power of granting dispensations, which was before 
 reserved to the Apostolic See, provided they are not con- 
 trary to the law of God and the rights of the crown. 
 Queen Elizabeth still further encreased his authority, by 
 empowering him to enact and make public all ceremonies 
 
 TT 
 
322 
 
 relative to divine worship ; to consecrate bishops with the 
 assistance of two others ; to appoint coadjutors to infirm 
 bishops ; to confirm the election of the bishops of his own 
 province ; to convoke the provincials ; to appoint an ad- 
 ministrator, when vacancies occur in the churches of his 
 province; during which time all the emoluments of the 
 diocese, and the exercise of ecclesiastical jurisdiction, 
 belong to the archbishop. 
 
 The archbishop has his cathedral in Canterbury, the 
 metropolis of the county of Kent. It was transferred 
 thither from London, out of regard to St. Augustine, who 
 is called the Apostle of England, and is buried in that 
 church, which is esteemed the first in the kingdom, for its 
 immense size, being built in the Gothic style, and for the 
 number of its pillars, of which there are three rows, made 
 of Serpentine marble. It surpasses all the other churches 
 in England in yearly revenue as well as in priority of dig- 
 nity, being estimated at four thousand pounds sterling, in 
 consequence of its having been augmented by King 
 Henry VIII, and Queen Elizabeth with various rents and 
 assignments. 
 
 From the palace of the Archbishop of Canterbury, his 
 highness went to see sundry gardens, in which, as is gene- 
 rally the case in England, if we except the disposition 
 
353 
 
 and arrangement of the parterres, there is little to be ad- 
 mired, as they cannot preserve from the rigour of the cli- 
 mate those trees which add so much to the beauty of the 
 Italian gardens. Repassing the Thames in a boat, his 
 highness went in his carriage to the Old Exchange (near 
 which is the Hall of the Cloth Merchants, and annexed 
 to it a beautiful garden for walking in) which contains, 
 on the ground-floor, the place where the merchants as- 
 semble every day to transact business, and over this, four 
 spacious galleries, in which are many shops of different 
 kinds, abounding with merchandize of every description, 
 not only equalling, but surpassing, those of the New Ex- 
 change. His highness, having walked through the gal- 
 leries, re-entered his carriage, spending the rest of the day 
 in visits to different ladies of quality, in conformity with 
 the system of politeness which, with his usual attention, he 
 had adopted as well towards them as towards the wives of 
 the public representatives of sovereign princes ; and in 
 the evening he went to the palace to pay his respects to 
 their majesties and royal highnesses. 
 
 In order to convince his highness of the great respect 
 in which he held him, my Lord Cavendish, Earl of De- 
 vonshire, son-in-law of the Earl of Salisbury, who had 
 frequently been honored by dining with his highness, 
 
 T T 2 
 
324 
 
 caused to be intimated to him his earnest wish of enter- 
 taining him to dinner in his own house, and a favorable 
 answer having been returned accepting the invitation, 
 the visit was fixed for the morning of the 29th, on which 
 day, his highness, having finished his private and domes- 
 tic duties, went out in his carriage, accompanied by 
 
 Colonel Gascoyne and Sir Castiglioni, and went 
 
 to the Earl of Devonshire's, who received him with ex- 
 pressions of peculiar satisfaction. The sumptuousness 
 of the banquet was not inferior to the others which had 
 been provided for his highness, no delicacy being want- 
 ing which the country could afford. Besides the gentle- 
 men of his highness's train, the Earl of Arundel, the Earl 
 of Cavendish, eldest son of my Lord Devonshire, and son- 
 in-law of the Duke of Ormond, and other noblemen, were 
 invited to meet his highness, and give eclat to the banquet 
 The prince walked from the top of the table to the bot- 
 tom, that he might gratify the guests, by giving them an 
 opportunity of drinking toasts to his prosperity and 
 welfare; nor was any politeness omitted on the part of the 
 Earl of Devonshire, who, for his knowledge, his man- 
 ners, and his yjirtyes, may justly be pronounced one of 
 the politest and most accomplished, as well as one of the 
 richest noblemen in England, being distinguished for his 
 
3^5 
 
 liberality, generosity, and regard for men of letters. This 
 is owing to his universal knowledge of the sciences; for 
 which he is indebted to the excellent education he received 
 from Mr. Hobbes, who inculcated into him dispositions 
 and habits widely different from those of the other nobles, 
 so that he neither participates in their defects, nor in thel 
 vices peculiar to the nation, both of which are in him 
 corrected by the suavity and mildness of his manners. 
 His highness, that he might not lose the day uselessly, 
 went again after dinner to the other side of the city, ex- 
 tending his excursion as far as Vauxhall, beyond the 
 palace of the Archbishop of Canterbury, to see an hy- 
 draulic machine, invented by my Lord Somerset, Marquis 
 of Worcester. It raises water more than forty geometri- 
 cal feet by the power of one man only; and in a very 
 short space of time will draw up four vessels of water 
 through a tube or channel not more than a span in 
 width; on which account it is considered to be of greater 
 service to the public than the other machine near Somer- 
 set House. 
 
 His highness went next to the India House, situated 
 on this side of the water, which is full of rare and curious 
 things, both animal and vegetable. Amongst other re- 
 markable things, may be seen the sycamore trees which 
 
325 
 
 grow in abundance in Egypt on the banks of the Nile, 
 arid in quality somewhat resemble our mulberry trees, 
 nor is the appearance of the leaves widely different; but 
 they neither produce flowers nor fruit. There are several 
 species of birds, and amongst others those called Birds of 
 Paradise, which have a long body covered with red and 
 flesh-coloured feathers, of the most lively tints, and a very 
 long tail, which render them exquisitely beautiful to the 
 eye; there are also nightingales from Virginia, a part of 
 North America in the possession of the English, joining 
 New France; they are equal in size to ours, and are clothed 
 with feathers of a red colour, and their heads, like those of 
 our larks, are ornamented with a tuft of very small feathers. 
 Besides the birds, there are different sorts of animals, ter- 
 restrial and aquatic, curious for the magnitude of their 
 bodies and the symmetry of their parts; of this descrip- 
 tion is the serpent, whose size is most remarkable, being 
 more than twelve cubits in length, and of proportionate 
 thickness; it is covered with scales lying one over another, 
 but closely set, thick, and firmly united, and as broad as 
 a man's hand. No less curious was a fish, equal in size 
 to a sea-calf, without scales, but covered with a rough and 
 uneven skin, and having a long and deformed head, with a 
 horrid looking mouth, in which are two rows of teeth, both 
 
327 
 
 upper and under, in shape like those of a saw. His high- 
 ness examined many other animals and curiosities which 
 came from India, and are kept here to gratify the curio- 
 sity of the public. Returning hence, he continued his 
 visits to the ladies, after which, in the evening, he went to 
 Whitehall, to pay his usual compliments, and thence 
 home, where he supped alone according to custom, setting 
 his attendants at liberty. 
 
 On the morning of the 30th, his highness performed his 
 usual devotional exercises at an early hour, that he might 
 be ready for his projected excursion to Hampton Court, 
 now that calm and mild weather invited him to that re- 
 creation ; and my Lord Philip Howard and my Lord 
 Anthony Ashley Cooper waited on him for that purpose. 
 With them he entered his carriage, and set out, followed by 
 the gentlemen of his suite, for the above-mentioned royal 
 residence, which is about twelve miles from London, in 
 order to see the deer-hunting in the adjacent park. On 
 first entering the park, he was met by Prince Robert, who 
 was likewise come thither for the diversion of seeing the 
 hunt. After the usual compliments, his highness went 
 forward. Prince Robert remaining in the place appointed 
 for him under the shade of a tree, on a stage a little raised 
 from the ground, which is the same where the king stands 
 
328 
 
 to see this amusement. When the huntsmen had stretched 
 out the nets, after the German manner, inclosing with 
 them a considerable space of land, they let the dogs loose 
 upon four deer which were confined there, who, as soon 
 as they saw them, took to flight; but as they had not the 
 power of going which way they pleased, they ran round 
 the nets, endeavouring, by various cunning leaps to save 
 themselves from being stopped by the dogs, and continued 
 to run in this manner for some time, to the great diversion 
 of the spectators, till at last the huntsmen, that they might 
 not harass the animals superfluously, drawing a certain 
 cord, opened the nets in one part, which was prepared for 
 that purpose, and left the deer at liberty to escape. 
 
 Having walked during the deer-hunting over the park, 
 which is rendered truly delightful by its numerous canals 
 and amenities of every kind, his highness repaired to the 
 palace to view the building, which is a piece of beautiful 
 Gothic architecture, and likewise the Indian tapestry, and 
 the paintings (amongst which the triumphs of Cajsar, done 
 in' water-colors by Anthony Montagu, are highly valued) 
 and other still more remarkable things, which ornament 
 the royal apartments, the gallery, and chapel. 
 
 At dinner-time, an elegant and sumptuous repast was 
 given by my Lord Ashley Cooper, at his delightful country- 
 
329 
 
 house close adjoining, at which were present, my Lord 
 
 Philip Howard, my Lord Crofts, Sir Spencer, and 
 
 the gentlemen belonging to his highness. 
 
 On his return to London after dinner, his highness 
 went down the Thames in a boat, which had been sent 
 thither by the Duke of York for his accommodation, ac^ 
 companied by my Lord Philip Howard, Ashley Coopei*, 
 9nd Sir • Spencer. They made the voyage very ex- 
 peditiously and agreeably, enjoying the beauty of the 
 river, and landing in due time at the palace of Whitehall. 
 He went immediately to the apartments of the queen, to 
 pay his compliments, where the king soon arrived, and 
 gave him a most courteous welcome, manifesting much 
 curiosity to know if the deer-hunt, and the palace, with 
 its environs, had given his highness pleasure; and he 
 giving his majesty his opinion of its magnificence in an 
 adequate manner, made known at the same time, with 
 great delicacy, the estimation in which he held it; for, in 
 fact, it far surpasses all the other pleasure-houses of the 
 king. His majesty, in reply, modestly added, that the 
 affection which his highness entertained for the things of 
 this country made him regard it with partiality; but that 
 they could not be compared or put in competition with 
 
 those of Italy. While this conversation was passing, the 
 
 u u ■ 
 
330 
 
 Duke of York came up, to whom his highness paid his 
 respects, and the discourse being resumed, continued on 
 different subjects, till the time of breaking up, when his 
 highness returned home, and supped as usual alone. 
 
 Hampton Court, a royal villa, situated three leagues 
 from London, in a delightful spot, close to which the 
 Thames flows with the utmost grandeur and magnificence, 
 was built, as a place of pleasure and recreation for royalty, 
 by Cardinal Wolsey, at the time when he was all-power^ 
 ful under King Henry VHI., by whom (having been left 
 incomplete by the fall of Wolsey) it was finished in the 
 same Gothic style and with the same splendor of deco- 
 ration ; and although the more elegant orders of architec- 
 ture are not to be found in it, so as to make it a regular 
 structure according to the rules of art, yet it is, on the 
 whole, a beautiful object to the eye. The numerous 
 toAvers and cupolas, judiciously disposed at irregular 
 distances all over the vast pile of building, form a most 
 striking ornament to it, whether viewed near or at a 
 distance. The ground-floor is divided into twelve courts, 
 two of which, being much superior to the others in size, as 
 well as beauty, contain the gardens, which are admirably 
 laid out. They are divided into very large, level, and well- 
 kept walks, which, separating the ground into diff'erent 
 
4 
 
 'Si 
 
 c 
 
 w 
 
I'tM 
 
331 
 
 compartments, form artificial parterres of grass, being 
 themselves formed by espalier trees, partly such as bear 
 fruit, and partly ornamental ones, but all adding to the 
 beauty of the appearance. This beauty is further augmented 
 by fountains, made of slate after the Italian style, and 
 distributed in different parts of the garden, whose jets 
 deaux throw up the water in various playful and fanciful 
 ways. There are also in the gardens some snug places 
 of retirement in certain towers, formerly intended as 
 places of accommodation for the king's mistresses. The 
 chapel, by the elegance of its structure, contributes much 
 to the splendor of this great edifice, in which they pretend 
 that the number of rooms exceeds four hundred ; those 
 which constitute the royal apartments are most worthy 
 of observation, the ceilings being composed of cedar and 
 timber from Ireland, which has the property of keeping 
 off every thing poisonpus, so that spiders do not even spin 
 their webs or make their nests upon it ; consequently 
 the gold retains so much the greater lustre upon the fur- 
 niture with which the rooms are enriched, and the valu- 
 able paintings with which they are decorated ; and on this 
 account one of them is called Paradise. Corresponding 
 with the apartments, two very long galleries, which, after 
 the death of King Charles I., were deprived by the Pro- 
 
 u u * 
 
332 
 
 tector Cromwell of such decorations as displayed the mag- 
 nificence of royalty. This usurper caused the pictures 
 to be removed, which, besides adding to the beauty of 
 their interior, afforded an opportunity of admiring and 
 appreciating the style of the most celebrated masters in 
 that art ; so that all that is now worth seeing consists of 
 a few pieces of painting by a good hand, placed there by 
 the king. Besides the sumptuousness of this building, 
 and the pleasantness of the gardens, the amusements of 
 hunting and fishing are not wanting, those diversions 
 being at hand in the park, which is of considerable size, 
 both in length and breadth, enclosing large meadows, 
 where the preserved deer feed. To vary the delights 
 of these beautiful premises, several canals or ponds are 
 distributed in different parts of the park, in whose trans- 
 parent waters quantities of fish are seen sporting, which 
 are reserved for the diversion of angling.'"^'^* '* "■ 
 
 On the 31st, having as usual finished his religious 
 duties, his highness rode out in his carriage with the 
 Chevalier Castiglioni and Colonel Gascoyne, and went to 
 the palace of Westminster, which was formerly a college 
 of canons, re-established by King Edward III., and is now 
 used for the judicial meetings of the two houses, the 
 upper and the lower, which together constitute the Par^ 
 
333 
 
 lianient of the kingdom. Having crossed the square 
 which corresponds with a gate upon the Thames, his high- 
 ness entered into the large hall of Westminster, a place 
 of considerable size, whose form shews it to have been 
 built rather for a church than for the functions of justice. 
 At the head of it on the right is the Court of Chancery, on 
 the left the tribunal called the King's Bench, because the 
 king used to sit in it to decide causes that concerned the 
 crown ; the other courts are separate and distinct from these; 
 the remainder of the hall, which is left free and unoccupied 
 by tribunals, serves for the people who assemble there 
 on the business of the law-suits, and for the accommoda*' 
 tion of many moveable shops which are placed round it. 
 In this room, the judges assemble four times every year 
 (which are the terms in which the courts are open) for the 
 decision of civil and criminal causes ; and when the 
 courts close, they go through the provinces of the king- 
 dom to determine the causes which take place among the 
 people of the several jurisdictions. When the courts of 
 law are open, the judges who "^)reside are drest in black 
 gowns lined with ermine, and turned up with the same 
 round the neck, like the episcopal dress. From the grand 
 room on the left hand, his highness ascended to the cham- 
 bers in which the two houses assemble. The first is for 
 
334 
 
 the Lower House; the circumference of it is not large; it 
 is without any ornament, and is surrounded with benches 
 for the members to sit upon. The second, which is the 
 highest in rank, not on account of its size, for it is smaller 
 than the other, but on account of the princes and other 
 great persons who assemble in it, composing the Upper 
 House, is entered from the former by a small door look- 
 ing directly vipon the royal throne, which faces it. At a 
 little distance from the door is a wooden railing, to pre- 
 vent those of the Lower House from advancing too far, 
 except when their deputies appear in Parliament before 
 the king. Round the room benches are distributed ac- 
 cording to the different ranks ; on the royal throne, besides 
 the king's seat, placed in the middle, are two chairs, simi- 
 lar to those of the bishops, the one on the right for the 
 king's eldest son, and the other for his brother, when they 
 attend the parliamentary meetings; these, at present, from 
 failure of male heirs, are filled by the Duke of York, the 
 king's brother, and Prince Robert; both the one or the other, 
 however, are beyond the fall, or border of the canopy. On 
 the right hand of the throne sit the archbishops and the 
 bishops, representing the clergy ; and on the left the 
 dukes, marquisses, earls, viscounts, and barons, and amongst 
 these are the seats of the judges and the king's secreta* 
 
335 
 
 ries, who sit on certain bales or packs covered with crim- 
 son woollen cloth, placed in order on the floor of the room. 
 The walls, at present, are naked, because the Parliament 
 was not sitting, but otherwise, during its meetings, they 
 are richly adorned with tapestry and paintings. >, 
 
 The Parliament of England, in whom, by the funda-^; 
 mental laws of the kingdom, is vested the administra-^ 
 tion of the common wealth, was instituted by Henry I., who 
 espoused by force, and consequently against her consent, 
 Matilda, sister of Edward of Scotland; and by her, as is 
 reported, was pronounced the curse against the royal 
 progeny, which many reflecting people conceive to be 
 the occasion of the misfortunes which have befallen the 
 royal house in modern days. This assembly is conir 
 posed of three descriptions of persons, of whom the first 
 is the king, and in case of a failure in the succession, the 
 queen; the second, the lords of the kingdom; the third, the 
 commons, in which are comprehended the judges and the 
 lawyers, who are excluded by custom from the order of 
 nobility. The authority of Parliament consists in the 
 formation of new laws and the abolition of old ones, 
 in' regulating current afiairs, and providing for future 
 contingencies, in prescribing rules for the succession 
 of the crown, in interpreting the laws, and imposing 
 
336 
 
 burdens for the wants of the state ; and this, generally 
 speaking, is the principal cause of convoking it. 
 
 The king usually Calls together the Parliament for a 
 determinate time, the summons being made to the bishops, 
 earls, barons, and other lords of the kingdom ; and an 
 order is issued to the viscounts (sheriffs) of the provinces or 
 counties, for the election of the persons who are to sit in 
 Parliament for the counties, the cities, and towns. 
 
 It is divided into two houses, the upper and the lower. 
 The first consists of the prelates and the peers, who are 
 considered as hereditary and perpetual counsellors of the 
 kingdom, besides the King, the Duke of York, and Prince 
 Robert, who alone take precedence of the rest, this dis- 
 tinction not extending beyond the brothers and nephews 
 of the king ; the sons of the king's nephews sitting below 
 the peers, or my lords. The Lower House, called the 
 House of Commons, represents the people of England, 
 and serves as a check upon the authority of the crown ; the 
 people considering Parliament as their especial protector, 
 acquiescing in all its decisions, and executing without op- 
 position whatever is resolved upon by it, under an idea 
 that it cannot err in its consultations for the public good. 
 The members of this house are elected by the people; and, 
 as well as all the individuals of their family, are looked 
 
337 
 
 lipon as public persons. Every' cortnty has two represen- 
 tatives, elected by the deputies of the places contained in 
 it. These representatives are either merchants, or citizens, 
 or gentlemen, or younger sons of peers, who possess pro- 
 perty in the county, and also the sons of peers who are 
 heirs apparent. To these are added the representatives 
 of the cities or towns of each province which is so privi- 
 leged ; for the prerogative of sending deputies to Parlia- 
 ment is not common to every city and villa^,' but pecu- 
 liar to those which have deserved well of the crown ; and 
 on this account, there are both cities and towns which do 
 not enjoy it. The election is in the hands of the inha- 
 bitants of the place itself, amongst whom it frequently 
 happens that there are no men of abilities and talents ; 
 in this case, they elect strangers, not natives of the town, 
 and for the most part persons who live in London ; on 
 which account, the king, in order to secure such as are 
 devoted to his will, exerts his influence, and contrives that 
 the election should fall upon those who, either from their 
 office or some other sort of dependance, are bound by the 
 ties of gratitude or of inclination to the royal family. It 
 is necessary, however, that they have a yearly income of 
 five hundred pounds sterling, without which they would 
 he ineligible; for poor men are not admitted, that. there 
 
 XX 
 
aas 
 
 may be no suspicion of venality, and that they may be 
 circumspect in levying contributions for the king's ser- 
 vice. The members of the Lower House greatly exceed 
 in numbers those of the Upper ; the former being esti- 
 mated at more than four hundred, while the latter scarcely 
 amount to one hundred and seventy. y^, 
 
 ^« [For Lists of Members of the two houses, with the 
 oaths taken, and the other ceremonies connected with the 
 then mode of conducting Parliamentary business, see the 
 Appendix.] 
 
 Besides the Parliament, there are not wanting, in Engv 
 Ikhd", other judicial assemblies and tribunals, to which be- 
 long, by the peculiar custom of this kingdom, the cogni- 
 zance of distinct branches of business ; and amongst the 
 kmaller courts of the large hall of Westminster, that 
 which is called the King's Bench is considered the high- 
 est, in which it is still the custom (a custom introduced 
 with so great advantage by the ancient Normans) to t\jj 
 not only the crown causes, but the more important criminal 
 ones. In the criminal causes, the business is carried on 
 in public, the court being open to whoever chooses to 
 enter. The charges having been heard privately, and the 
 evidence against the accused person collected, on the 
 day appointed for trying the cause, the chief justice of 
 
339 
 
 England (who, as well as the Ordinary judges, is appoint- 
 ed by the king) as being the principal judge of this court, 
 appears in his magisterial habit of scarlet, being the hand- 
 somest and noblest dress that is used in the kingdom, ac- 
 companied by his four assessors or colleagues, in the 
 midst of whom he sits down, the other ofBcers of less ao 
 count being distributed in their several posts according 
 to their respective functions. Without, and close to the 
 bar which surrounds the place in which the judges and 
 officers sit, the prisoner stands (unless, in consideration of 
 his birth, or rank, or natural weakness, he is permitted to 
 sit down) surrounded by the executioners, all armed for 
 the purpose of guarding him, and by the people, who as- 
 semble together to hear the proofs of his guilt. A common 
 crier cites the prisoner by name, and the cause is proposed 
 at length to be decided by twenty-four persons, whom he 
 names. Of these, the chief justice chooses twelve, asking 
 the prisoner if there be any amongst them whom he sus- 
 pects or mistrusts ; and if one or more are objected to 
 as such, he appoints such others of them as he thinks fit, 
 the accused having still the satisfaction of approving them 
 himself These twelve, who, from the, oath which they 
 take to judge according to truth and 'i:o their conscience, 
 are called jurymen, represent the people, who stand as 
 
 XXI 
 
340 
 
 mediators betwixt the king and the prisoner, to support 
 the cause of the former when he has been aggrieved, or of 
 ^eJiatter if he has Jb^en wrongly accused ; and on this 
 acidount, for the mokt part, all the common people, or the 
 greater part of them, being of the same rank, take part with 
 the accused person. The office of the jurymen is to as- 
 certain the simple fact, from the proofs which are brought 
 forward for or against the prisoner, leaving to the ad- 
 vocates the discussion of the question of law. ^ii 
 The facts being heard, the jurymen retire into a room, 
 where they are shut up, and confer amongst themselves 
 about the evidence ; nor are they allowed to go out tiU* 
 they are all of one opinion. Having agreed in their 
 verdict, they return into coiut, and the foreman announces 
 with a loud voice, saying, when they have found him 
 guilty, Guilty, or Not Guilty when he is innocent ; 
 and according to this report the chief justice is obliged to 
 regulate his sentence. To these proceedings succeed, 
 after a short interval of time, the act of passing judgment, 
 to the end that the attorney-general may be able to deduce 
 any thing else he may have against the accused in fur- 
 therance of his condemnation ; accordingly, on the day 
 on which sentence is to be pronounced, he is admitted 
 along with the rest within the bar, which incloses the 
 
341 
 
 chief justice with his judges, and the twelve who are 
 chosen to decide upon the fact. The common crier again 
 calls the prisoner into court, into the presence of the judges, 
 he replying to the summons, and at the same time hold- 
 ing up his hand ; and almost immediately one of the 
 officers reads to him the accusations which appear against 
 him ; which having been denied and repelled by him in 
 the aggregate as false; then the chief justice turning to 
 the prisoner, adds, ** To whom wilt thou commit the de- 
 cision of thy cause?" and the accused, in case of pleading 
 " Not Guilty" to the crime with which he is charged, has, 
 by a provision of the ancient laws of the kingdom, th^ 
 choice of two methods: he may either reply that he wishes 
 for the judgment of God, in which case the trial is 
 finished; for, guilty or not, he is irreparably doomed to 
 death; yet this does not render his family infamous, as 
 he has not been declared guilty ; and on that account th^ 
 customary public method of punishment is not made use 
 of with him, nor are his effects confiscated, but descend to 
 the natural heir. He is then stretched upon the ground oil 
 his back, having a stone underneath him, which raises his 
 loins upwards, and is covered with a table loaded with 
 heavy stones, which are not all laid upon him together 
 to crush him at once, but one after another, so as to pro-r 
 
342 
 
 long his death to a great length of time. Or he may de- 
 mand that his cause should be tried by God and his 
 country; and the chief justice in this case replied,*"" God 
 and thy country, represented by us and the twelve jury- 
 men, shall be thy judges." The recorder then reads the 
 examination of the accused that has been tak^it'ttf pri^dftj 
 the king's attorney-general haranguing against him. The 
 witnesses also are brought against him, and make their 
 depositions in public, the prisoner endeavouring to rebut 
 their evidence ; after which, the chief justice briefly sums 
 up all that has been alledged for or against the prisoner 
 for tlie information of the jury, who retiring to consult^ 
 if they declare him guilty, the attorney-general presses 
 the' chief justice for sentence. The latter then asks the 
 prisoner if he has any thing else to bring fOrWafcliti hil 
 defence, or can assign any reason why sentence should 
 not be passed upon him ,• and if he does not assign any 
 substantial or efficacious reasons, he passes sentence of con- 
 demnation, consigning him to the sheriff of London, or to 
 the under-sheriffs, who superintend the execution of justice. 
 It is thus that the more important causes and capital 
 offences are expedited in the King's Bench ; and the 
 same formalities and publicity are also substantially 
 observed in the inferior courts, both in London and in 
 
343 
 
 the provinces, with greater or less solemnity on the part 
 of the judges, who are despatched from Westminster to 
 make the circMit pjf the kingdojii, for this purppse. itn^< v 
 From Westminster Hall, his highness made a tour 
 through the city to examine some paintings; and returned 
 home at dinner-time. Th^,r^§l,ojfjtte jfoy he passed in 
 visits, till towards evening, when he went to the palace, 
 according to custom, to pay his respects to their ma- 
 jesties. Vii'JU . UiJ H» iU^^ U 
 
 A certain artist, named Cooper, had been strongly re- 
 commended to his highness for his skill in painting and 
 his excellence in drawing to the Hfe, with softness, expres- 
 sion, and distinctness. The same is one of the most cele- 
 \}f Sited and esteemed painters in London, and no person of 
 quality visits that city without endeavouring toobtainsome 
 of his performances, to take out of the kingdom. He re- 
 solved, therefore, to have his likeness taken by him; and for 
 that purpose went on the first of June, with Gascoyne and 
 Castiglioni, to the place were he worked. There he 
 amused himself for a considerable time, till the first 
 draught was begun, and then returned home, and, the 
 table being spread, dined with the gentlemen of his reti- 
 nue. After dinner he went out to pay visits; towards the 
 
close of the day repaired to Hyde Park, and in the even- 
 ing adjourned to the palace. 
 
 .=. TJ^je Duke of Ormond, formerly Viceroy of Ireland, in 
 return for the honor of having been entertained at the 
 table of his highness, was desirous of an opportunity of 
 paying him a similar attention at his own; and having 
 transmitted his earnest wish to that effect through Colonel 
 Gascoyne, the prince obligingly accepted his invitation, 
 and appointed that day for the visit. 
 
 Having heard mass, and completed his other custo- 
 mary exercises, his highness proceeded in hjs carriage to 
 the duke's house, attended by Gascoyne and Castiglioni. 
 The rest of his suite he left at home, where his highness, 
 notwithstanding his absence, was careful to cause a table to 
 be kept, which was always frequented by several noblemen 
 and gentlemen. The duke received him with all due for- 
 ijflality, indicating the most ceremonious and respectful de- 
 votion. The entertainment was conducted with the same 
 attention as the others at which he had been present, and 
 with stn hospitality which did not yield to any of them, 
 eitheV in expense, or that species of magnificence which is 
 practised in this country, where they are not accustomed 
 to that delicacy and variety in their dishes for which tli€ 
 
345 
 
 French are so remarliable, and, following their example, 
 the Italians also. Among the noblemen invited to do him 
 honor, were my Lord Philip Howard and my Lord 
 Stafford ; and by all, with one general sentiment of good- 
 will, repeated toasts were drank to his highness's pro- 
 sperity. His highness retired a short time after dinner, 
 and, in taking leave, expressed his acknowledgments to 
 the Duke of Ormond in the most obliging terms. Taking 
 my Lord Philip with him in his carriage, he went to call 
 upon some ladies, and, at the approach of evening, re- 
 paired to Whitehall to pay his compliments to the queeni 
 Then going to St. James's Palace, he paid his respects 
 to the Duchess of York, who had left her apartments at 
 the royal palace, and taken up her abode there during 
 the summer months, it being the usual residence reserved 
 for the duke's particular use. 
 
 ^ St. James's Palace is situated at the bottom of the wide 
 street corresponding with the palace of the lord chancel- 
 lor, which is nearly opposite to it, higher up in the 
 road which leads from Brentford to London. It stands 
 tvithin the precincts of the park, which connects it with the 
 palace of Whitehall, alongside of the walk, eight hundred 
 geometrical paces in length, which is used for the diver- 
 sion of the Mall. The building is ancient and mean, 
 
 Y Y 
 
/' 
 
 346 
 
 owing to the rudeness of the materials of which it is com- 
 posed; and, from the irregularity of its structure, it has no 
 external appearance of magnificence. Nevertheless, in 
 the interior, it contains many apartments distributed 
 rather with a view to convenience than good taste, the best 
 of which are suitably fitted up, and occupied by the duke 
 and duchess. In those of the duke, among the most re- 
 markable objects, are to be seen, inclosed in glass cases, 
 some miniature models of men of war, beautifully ex- 
 ecuted after the designs of his royal highness, who, from 
 living the superintendence of the naval armaments, has 
 a particular genius for the construction of vessels, and is 
 very attentive to their being well shaped and adapted to 
 Haanoeuvre with agility in battle. The rest of the upper 
 jipartments are allotted to the ladies and gentlemen of the 
 court ; the lower ones being appropriated to the inferior 
 officers of the household. 
 
 The view in front of the house is by no means the most 
 agreeable, that being the most beautiful and diversified 
 which it commands from the back part looking into the 
 park, whence the eye wanders over groves, meadows, the 
 canal, Westminster and its suburbs, altogether constitut- 
 ing a very lovely prospect. »^ii h; 
 
 On the morning of the 3rd, his highness having hear(f 
 
347 
 
 mass, went out at a late hour, and visited the painter who 
 was employed upon his portrait ; after which, for the sake 
 of passing away mid-day, he took a tour in his carriage 
 about the city, and returned home at dinner-time. Hav- 
 ing amused himself in his room for some time, his high-fc 
 ness gave orders for dinner, at which, besides his own 
 attendants, Henry Nevil and some other gentlemen were 
 present. In the afternoon, his highness left home earlier 
 than usual to make his visits, that he might be at th6 
 King's Theatre in time for the comedy, and a ballet set 
 on foot and got up ih honor of his highness by m;^ 
 Lord Stafford, uncle of the Duke of Norfolk. 
 
 On arriving at the theatre, which was sufficiently 
 lighted on the stage and on the walls to enable the 
 spectators to see the scenes and the performances, his 
 highness seated himself in a front box, where, besides en- 
 joying the pleasure of the spectacle, he passed the even- 
 ing in conversation with the Venetian ambassador, the 
 Duke of Norfolk, Lord Stafford, and other noblemen. 
 
 To the story of Psyche, the daughter of Apollo, which 
 abounded with beautiful incidents, all of them adapt- 
 ied to the performers and calculated to express the force 
 of love, was joined a well-arranged ballet, regulated by 
 the sound of various instruments, with new and fanciful 
 
 Y Y« 
 
348 
 
 dances after the English manner, in which different 
 actions were counterfeited, the performers passing grace- 
 fully from one to another, so as to render intelligible, by 
 iheir mQvements, the acts they were representing. 
 . This spectacle was highly agreeable to his highness from 
 its novelty and ingenuity; and all parts of it were likewise 
 equally praised by the ladies and gentlemen, who crouded 
 in great numbers to the theatre, to fill the boxes, with 
 which it is entirely surrounded, and the pit, and to enjoy 
 the performance, which was protracted to a late hour of 
 the night. At the end of it, his highness returned home, 
 and, dismissing his attendants, retired to his apartments, 
 and supped in private. 
 
 -:i;, Wishing to oblige the Earl of Northumberland, who 
 was anxious to partake of the favor which had been shewn 
 to others of his own rank, his highness consented to let 
 him have the honor of entertaining him at his house; and 
 accordingly proceeded thither on the 4th, about dinner- 
 time, and was received and welcomed by the earl with 
 the most distinguished politeness. The entertainment, 
 both in the number and quality of the courses, was quite 
 in conformity with the known liberality of this nobleman ; 
 and many toasts were drank by the guests to the health 
 imd happiness of his highness. In the afternoon, on leavjj 
 
349 
 
 ing the Earl of Northumberland's house, his highness went 
 to look about the city, and afterwards to promenade in 
 Hyde Park. In the evening, he went to Whitehall to 
 the apartments of the queen, and soon afterwards to St. 
 James's Palace, where the Duchess of York resided; and 
 then returned home. 
 
 On the following day a sumptuous dinner was given 
 |jy the Duke of Buckingham, the king's principal Master 
 of the Horse, to which his highness had been previously 
 invited, in conformity to the arrangement made with his 
 majesty and the duke ; for the indispensable incognito of 
 his highness did not admit of any public demonstrations 
 of attention. His highness went there early; and while 
 he was chatting in a room adjoining the saloon with' some 
 noblemen, the King and Duke of York unexpectedly 
 made their appearance, and were received with all due 
 honor and observance, which they acknowledged in the 
 most condescending manner : at the same time they 
 could not forbear noticing his highness with marked civi- 
 lity and attention ; and that there might be no restraint 
 upon those who were conversing, they both joined the 
 party, and continued talking till dinner was announced. 
 In seating themselves at table, although no distinction of 
 place was observed, yet his majesty retained on one side 
 
350 
 
 of him the Duke of York and on the other side his high- 
 ness; the Duke of Monmouth, the Earl of Northumberland,' 
 Lord Arlington, the Chevalier Castiglioni, Colonel Gas- 
 coyne, and other gentlemen, whom his majesty honored 
 by admitting them to the entertainment, sitting round the 
 table. 
 
 The table was served in a splendid style, suitable 
 t^' the Tank of the'^t^ls'ilid the munificence of the host. 
 Toasts were not forgotten, being considered an indispen- 
 sable appendage to English entertainment. His high- 
 ness began by proposing the king and the royal family, 
 which was three times followed up with loud cheers by 
 all present. His highness, to do honor to the toast, 
 would have given it standing ; but this his majesty would 
 not allow, absolutely compelling him to keep his seat. 
 In return for the triple compliment, the king pledged his 
 highness and the Serene House of Tuscany in an equal 
 number of rounds, and at the same time accompanied this 
 act of kindness by taking hold of his highness's hand, 
 which he would have kissed ; but the prince anticipating 
 him, with the greatest promptitude and address kissed 
 that of his majesty. The king, repeating his toast, wished 
 to shew the same courtesy to his highness ; but he, with- 
 drawing his hand with the most delicate respect, would 
 
351 
 
 not permit it, which his majesty perceiving, immediately 
 kissed him on the face. The toasts given by his majesty 
 and his highness having been thus mutually acknowledged 
 and replied to, a concluding one was proposed, and drank 
 with unbounded applause by the guests — to the intimate 
 union and alliance of the Royal House of England and 
 the Most Serene House of Tuscany. 
 
 The tables being now removed, his majesty arose, and 
 attended by the duke and his highness, and followed by 
 the rest of the company, adjourned into the first apart- 
 ment, where he chatted for a time with his accustomed 
 aflfability, and then returned to the palace incognito^ as he 
 had come. 
 
 His highness returned home a short time afterwards, 
 where he found the lord mayor and aldermen, and others, 
 representing the body of the senate or common council 
 of London, waiting to address his highness in the name 
 of the corporation. They had been received in form 
 in one of the lower rooms by Colonel Gascoyne, who, 
 to make the delay less tedious, had accommodated him- 
 self to the national taste, by ordering liquor, and amusing 
 them with drinking toasts, till it were announced that his 
 highness was ready to give them audience. In proceed- 
 ing to his highness's apartment, a man went before in a 
 
352 
 
 long black gown, carrying in his hand a mace witli « 
 silver gilt crown; after him followed another bearing a: 
 sword as the ensign of justice, and a round cap of red 
 velvet, trimmed round the outside with a grey-coloured 
 fur, either as a mark of respect to his highness, or for the 
 sake of shewing that the corporation in that spot, as being 
 out of the ancient liberties of London and on this side of 
 Temple Bar, had no power or jurisdiction. After them 
 came the lord mayor, with twelve aldermen, and as many 
 common councilmen, who followed in regular order. The 
 aldermen, as well as the mayor, had each of them a beau- 
 tiful dress of scarlet, lined with fur, that of the mayor 
 being distinguished by a jewel of great value which hung 
 from his neck, while the rest wore a golden collar. 
 The common councilmen were dressed in full black cloth 
 gowns, richly decorated. Having ascended the stair-case 
 with this official pomp and solemnity, they were received 
 at the door of the saloon by the Chevaher Castiglioni,^ 
 and at that of the inner room by his highness, who, hav- 
 ing welcomed them, insisted upon my lord mayor being^ 
 covered, while one of the aldermen addressed him in 
 English, expressing the respect and devotion of the corpo- 
 ration to his highness, and entreating him to honor them 
 by his presence at a public dinner at the Mansion House* 
 
353 
 
 Colonel Gascoyne gave his highness s answer, in English, 
 to the mayor and deputation : that he was deeply sensi- 
 ble of this proof of their zeal and attachment, but niust 
 be excused from accepting their invitation on the score of 
 his incognito; on account of his approaching departure 
 from this court; and from a wish to observe the same line 
 of conduct that had been practised by him in other towns 
 through which he had passed. After this reply, they took 
 their leave, with a repetition of the same professions of 
 respect. His highness accompanied the lord mayor a 
 few steps out of the room ; and, on entering the room again^ 
 bowed politely, as he passed, to the aldermen. When the 
 aldermen retired from his highness's presence, they waited 
 outside the door till my lord mayor had seated himself in 
 his carriage; and as soon as it set off, they all entered 
 their carriages, and returned home with the same order 
 and ceremony as they came. 
 
 The mayor is the first personage in the city, and the 
 head of the magistracy or common council, which, with 
 twelve aldermen and other officers, according to the general 
 custom of the kingdom, have the management of the civij 
 government within, but not out of, the city, the respective 
 towns and villages being independent of his authority^ 
 
 The office is elective, and temporary, only continuing 
 
 z z 
 
354 
 
 a year; during which period, by virtue of his situation, 
 the mayor enjoys the title of my lord, although he is of 
 plebeian extraction and for the most part of the class of 
 traders. The aldermen, and other subaltern officers, assist 
 him in the quality of councillors. Before entering upon his 
 office, the newly-elected mayor goes by water, with a 
 grand procession of boats, to Whitehall, to take the oath 
 of allegiance to the king, as is ordained by the fundar 
 
 -i 
 
 mental laws of the kingdom in the case of every persori 
 succeeding to public office. This ceremony being gone 
 through, he is reconducted with his numerous escort amid 
 the shouts of the multitude to Guildhall, which is the 
 town-house, and the principal place of assembly for the 
 common council, whence he set out ; and here a well- 
 served table is displayed, and great rejoicing takes place 
 in honor of the new election, which is kept up with true 
 convivial spirit by the guests. Nor does this kind of en- 
 tertainment take place on the first day only of his enter- 
 ing into office ; but every day in the year, during his ad- 
 ministration, the mayor is obliged, by virtue of his post, 
 to keep open table, which is necessarily attended with 
 great expense ; and, on this account, the burden of the si- 
 tuation is always thrown upon some wealthy individual, 
 that it may be kept up with credit and dignity. 
 
355 
 
 The following day, which was the 6th, his highness, 
 induced by the beauty of the season, resolved to go to 
 Chatham, to see the place where several ships were burnt 
 duiing the last war by the Dutch ; and where one in parti- 
 cular, the Royal Charles, was captured and carried into 
 Helvoetsluys, at which place it was seen by his highness 
 the year before, when he was on his tour in Zealand an4 
 Brabant. Taking with him the gentlemen of his train 
 and Colonel Gascoyne, and such as were necessary for 
 his personal attendance, and leaving the rest in Londoni 
 he travelled on this occasion with great speed, that he 
 might have time for satisfying his curiosity with ease and 
 convenience. The country through which he passed was 
 very beautiful, having a continued appearance of fertility 
 as far as Deptford, four miles from London. A more di- 
 versified tract then succeeds as you travel to Rochester, 
 which is thirty miles distant from London. On his ar^ 
 rival at that place, his highness, before entering the 
 city, went down to the bank of the Med way, where 
 several boats were in readiness for his accommodation. 
 These were suffered to drop down the river, which, when it 
 is filled with water by the influx of the tide (which here 
 rises to a distance of upwards of eighteen miles above 
 
 Z Z 9 
 
356 
 
 Rochester) has depth enough to be navigable by the larg- 
 est frigates of war. 
 
 In passing over from the fort of Upnor, which stands 
 on the bank of the Medway and obstructed the further 
 progress of the Dutch on their burning expedition, his 
 highness was saluted with thirteen guns ; from the fortifi- 
 cations also, which are constructed on the same bank for 
 the defence of the river, he received a similar compliment, 
 sometimes of eleven, sometimes of nine guns. ,. 
 
 Having dropped down a long reach of the river, his 
 highness was met by the king's yacht (presented to his 
 majesty by the States General when he was restored to the 
 crown) in order that he might proceed with all possible 
 safety and convenience as far as the mouth of the river, 
 to see the' new fort of Sheerness, which is now building 
 for the purpose of repelling any hostile ships that might 
 attempt to entejc tjie river. On stepping on board the 
 royal yacht, his highness was complimented with a dis- 
 charge from some small pieces of artillery ; and imme- 
 jdi^l^i^? ^^t down to table -with .Colonel Gascoyne and 
 hi^ gentleman, and, every time his highness drank, the 
 discharge of cannon was repeated. When his repast was 
 finished, an opportunity was given to the rest of his suite 
 
357 
 
 to take their dinner while* tfft' yacht was proceeding to 
 the fortress of Sheerness, though not without some ob- 
 struction both from the wind and tide ; but, at length, 
 they got the better of both, and came alongside the fort, 
 about which several persons were at work, endeavouring 
 to put it into a serviceable state as soon as possible. On 
 the approach of the yacht, his highness was saluted with 
 nine discharges of artillery, which was placed on the sea- 
 shore, on a mound of earth under the new castle, which 
 were replied to from the yacht. After taking a view, 
 at a proper distance, of the fortification, which is yet im- 
 perfect and of an irregular form, having bastions of dif- 
 ferent sizes, he turned back again; and when the yacht 
 had regained its station, his highness took the boats which 
 had remained there, and went to see the ship called the 
 Sovereign, then lying at anchor in the Medway. Amid 
 discharges of artillery, he was received on board this 
 vessel, the greatest and most powerful in the royal navy ; 
 so much so that its swiftness is much impaired by its bulk 
 and weight, and, consequently, it is seldom used, as it 
 would be a mean of detaining the other ships. This 
 monstrous vessel was built in the year 1637, by King 
 Charles I., at an incredible expense; for, besides the vast 
 size of the ship, which is an hundred and twenty paces in 
 
358 
 
 length, it has cabins roofed with carved work, richly orna- 
 mented with gold, and the outside of the stern is decorat- 
 ed in a similar manner. The height of the stern is quite 
 extraordinary, and it is hung with seven magnificent Ian- 
 thorns, the principal one, which is more elevated than the 
 rest, being capable of containing six people. The ship car- 
 ries one hundred and six pieces of brass cannon, and re- 
 quires a thousand men for its equipment. His highness went 
 to the highest part of the stern, and having walked over the 
 whole length, from stern to prow, as well above as below, 
 stepped into the handsomest cabin in the stern, where there 
 were still evident marks of the sides having been repaired 
 from the effect of cannon balls, which sufficiently indi- 
 cated that it had been more than once in action. Here 
 the captain had prepared refreshment for his highness, 
 of which, at his respectful solicitation, he condescended to 
 partake, and began the toasts by drinking to the health of 
 his majesty, amid great applause and discharges of can- 
 non, which were repeated Avhen the cheering was renewed 
 by the gentlemen of his retinue, and the captain. 
 
 His highness then re-embarked, in order to see the 
 ship called The Royal Charles, built to supply the place 
 of the other of that name captured by the Dutch ; and, as 
 he went along, was gratified by the sight of other ships of 
 
359 
 
 war, which lay scattered about the river, to the number of 
 two and twenty, among which were three built in the time 
 of Queen Elizabeth, carrying eighty guns, all in high pre- 
 servation, and so perfectly fit for action, that they made 
 use of them in the different naval actions with the Dutch. 
 They are, however, of a different construction from the 
 modern built ships, and neither so strong nor so safe. 
 Having seen the dock at Chatham, constructed by Queen 
 Elizabeth, in which are built the greater part of the ships 
 of war, and the magazines full of all sorts of stores neces- 
 sary for promptly equipping upwards of forty men of 
 war, his highness landed at Rochester, and took a short 
 walk through the town. He saw, however, nothing worthy 
 of notice, except the Gothic cathedral, which is deprived 
 of all internal ornaments, like all the others in England ; 
 and the castle, which is a square building, and, according 
 to an ancient tradition among the common people, is 
 said to have been erected by Julius Caesar. It stands 
 near the cathedral, and also near the bridge across the 
 Medway, the latter of which has a parapet surrounded by 
 an iron balustrade, to shelter passengers from the wind. 
 His highness then went to the quarters bespoken before- 
 hand for him by his courier, having fixed upon the follow- 
 ing day for his return to London. His highness passed 
 
m 
 
 Ae evening in his own room, supping alone, and his gen- 
 demen in their usual way. 
 
 Rochester in ibrmer ti tn c a.waa a verj t^soaU pla^; but 
 DOW, bemg greatly encrt^ased by the erection of new houses, 
 and by the population of the Tillages, which extend to a 
 great distance along the Aledway, on which it stands, it 
 bas not only become larger than Canterbun-, the capital 
 of tbe county of Kent, but is jusdy reckoned amoug the 
 waas t considerable cities of this very fertile couniy, and 
 anKH3£: the best in England, its inhabitants beios esd- 
 Bated at sixteen or eighteen thousand, who derote them- 
 telwes to handicrafts or to tbe sea-sorice. It is eight 
 miles from Gravesoid, twelve irom. the sea, and twenty- 
 sx firooi Canterburr. The buildinors of this town are 
 for the most part ccmstructed after the English fashion, 
 low and narrow, with pointed roofs; the windows project 
 outwards, formings as it were, a galler)' with several angle% 
 and from the lai^ quantity of glassy tliey render tb^. 
 front part oi tbe houses transparent, and the habitations 
 way canPDodioos and lightsome. ^frrM 
 
 There is a cathedral church diere, which owes ify^ 
 foundation to Ethelbert, King of Kent, who, besides fur- 
 nishing tbe materials for building it, supplied an eodow- 
 for tbe maintenance of tbe episcopal dignity, which 
 
Mi 
 
 is at present filled by Dr. Dolben, Dean of Westminster, 
 who has the title of Bishop, and enjoys the revenues of this 
 see, valued at four hundred pounds steiWng per annum. 
 The castle, and the bridge which is not far from i^ are tbe 
 most remarkable things in the place : the first, for the an- 
 tiquity which it evinces ; the s«:ond, for its numerous 
 stone arches and its massr strength, bv means of which 
 it safely resits tbe violence of the tide, which comes op 
 with great force. At low water, howeva-, it affords a secure 
 retreat for the ships of the fleet which come to an anchor 
 there, and also furnishes facilities for taking the fish which 
 breed in the river in great abundance, and more especially 
 for catching sal moD, which come up from the sea. 
 
 In temporals, the city is goremed, according to the 
 universal custom of the kingdom, by the ordinary magis- 
 tracy, consisting of the mayor and aldermen : causes being 
 carried, by appeal from this jurisdiction, to tbe sberi£& 
 and judges, who are despatched from the courts of West- 
 minster throughout the provinces. 
 
 His highness rose early on die 7th ; and while he was 
 performing his private devotions, tbe carriages were pre- 
 pared for his departure, though it seemed likely for raio. 
 He returned towards London bv the same road Inr which 
 be came, gratifying himself with the pleasantness and 
 
 S A 
 
362 
 
 fertility of the fruit-trees planted in rows through the 
 jiyhole of the country, and of the parks, which in these 
 parts abound with deer ; and turning a little out of the 
 idirect road, towards Greenwich, stopped at the villa of 
 Sir William Duff, which stands in that neighbourhood, an 
 invitation having been sent beforehand to his highness to 
 jfchat effect. Before sitting down to table, he visited the 
 lady of the baronet, and then went into the dining-room, 
 where an elegant dinner of fish was prepared. Besides 
 his own suite, other gentlemen sat down to table, who had 
 come beforehand to pay their respects to and wait upon 
 his highness. This villa, besides a commodious and well- 
 arranged dwelling-house, contains within its precincts 
 two gardens, divided into delightful alleys, compartments, 
 and arbours ; and their beauty is much encreased by 
 the groves and thickets, under the shade of whose verdant 
 canopies are most beautiful walks, which do not yield to 
 those of other country-houses of gentlemen of similar rank, 
 among whom indeed the owner of this villa is in great 
 consideration from his riches, being worth four thousand 
 pounds a-year, to which up to that time there was no heir, 
 he having no sons. Having, in the course of the day, 
 viewed the rest of the house, and gone round the gardens, 
 to the great gratification of the baronet, who prided him- 
 
self on thfe kindness wliich his highness' had mariifestedr 
 in honoring this his delicious retirement with his pi^esence^ 
 be entered his cEtrriage, to which he was attended by all 
 the gentlemen ; and testifying to them in the most lively^ 
 planner his gratitude for so much attention, he set out for 
 London, passing through Greenwich, and, continuing his* 
 journey with as much haste as possible, arrived in London, 
 and, alighting from his carriage not far from the bridge, 
 took a boat, that he might be the first to reach his apart'' 
 ments. Taking off his travelling dress, and resuming 
 that which he usually wore, he went to court, to make up 
 for the omissions during his absence, atid paid his devoirs 
 to their majesties. He found the Duke of York there ; 
 and the whole royal party received him with their usual 
 graciousness, welcoming his return, and expressing the 
 greatest curiosity to hear what tour he had made, and 
 what he had seen to please him at Chatham. His high^ 
 ness satisfied their wishes, thanking their majesties con- 
 jointly for their attention in making so many arrange- 
 ments for his personal convenience. 
 
 He went the same evening to St. James's to the apart- 
 ments of the Duchess of York, to pay a similar mark of 
 respect to her royal highness, and at length returned homey 
 
 S Xi 
 
m 
 
 when he retired into his chamber, and, it being late> 
 ordered supper, which he took alone. t 
 
 In order to observe the eighth day of the month with' 
 becoming distinction, being the anniversary of his Ma- 
 jesty's birth-day and of his restoration to the kingdom, 
 his highness laid aside his mourning, that he might omit 
 no delicate mark of respect, and put on a very rich and 
 splendid gala dress, adapted to the English fashion, and 
 went early to court to tender to his Majesty the usual 
 compliment on his completing another year (it being 
 the thirty-ninth year of his age, and the ninth of his 
 return to England) and to offer his wishes for his conti- 
 nued prosperity. To this very polite attention his majesty 
 replied with kindness, testifying his acknowledgments 
 with expressions of the utmost cordiality. 
 
 This day is no otherwise solemnized in London than 
 by keeping the shops shut, and by the king s going to 
 chapel with his court, and dining in public, with the 
 princes of the blood, in the banquetting room at Whitehall, 
 which is hung with tapestry in the more elevated part of it, 
 under the canopy, and is traversed by a balustrade, to pre- 
 vent the people who resort thither from flocking round 
 the royal table. The dinner is enlivened with various 
 
365 
 
 pieces of music, performed by the musicians of the king's 
 household. 
 
 The chapel, in which the king assisted the ceremonies 
 of the Anglican religion, is called The Lord's Chapel; it 
 joins the vast, but ill-arranged building of Whitehall 
 Palace, is exempt from the jurisdiction of the bishop, and 
 immediately subject to the visitation of the king, who ap- 
 points a dean to superintend it. This dignitary is at 
 present the Bishop of Hereford, Herbert Croft, who has 
 with it a yearly stipend of two hundred pounds sterling 
 and a table. To him belongs the nomination of the sub- 
 dean, or canon of the chapel (an office filled by Dr. 
 Jones, whose stipend is one hundred pounds sterling) and 
 of two-and-thirty gentlemen of the chapel, with each a 
 yearly pension of seventy pounds sterling; twelve of these 
 are ecclesiastics. It is their office every morning to per- 
 form before the court the service appointed by their reli- 
 gion, to examine, catechise, advise, reply to scruples of 
 conscience, and explain the respective dogmas of their re- 
 ligion. To regulate the ceremonies of the chapel, there 
 are two masters of the ceremonies, if they may be so 
 called, who carry silver wands. Twelve times a-year, on 
 the great festivals, which are those of the Nativity, Easter, 
 
Whitsuntide, All-Saints (which are called household days) 
 the Epiphany (when the king, in imitation of the three 
 Magi, offers at the altar, in three vessels, gold, silver, and 
 myrrh) the Conversion of St. Paul, the Purification, the An- 
 nunciation, the Ascension, the Trinity, St. John's, and Mi- 
 chaelmas, the king attends at the chapel, accompanied by 
 all the peers who are at court, and the Knights of the Garter 
 wearing the insignia of their order. For the service of the 
 chapel the king maintains eight-and-forty chaplains in 
 ordinary, besides extraordinary ones, the greater part of 
 whom are persons of considerable reputation, and Doctors 
 of Divinity. Some of these read prayers throughout the 
 year in his majesty's private oratory, and others preach 
 before him in the chapel on Sundays and holidays, except 
 in Lent; during which season, on appointed days, the dean 
 of the chapel, beginning with Ash-Wednesday, the bishops, 
 deans of the cathedrals, and chaplains of his majesty, per- 
 form the service, and Easter Sunday is always reserved 
 for the Bishop of London, Dr. Henchman, the king's 
 grand almoner. 
 
 The number of noblemen and gentlemen employed 
 about the court, and other persons of consideration 
 that happened to be in London about their private con^ 
 
367 
 
 cerns, who, on this day of rejoicing, assembled to pay 
 their devoirs to his majesty and family at Whitehall, was 
 very great. 
 
 The palace of Whitehall, the residence of the king, is 
 more remarkable for its situation, which is on the Thames, 
 and for its connection with the beautiful Park j?f, St* 
 James, than for the nobleness of its structure; being 
 nothing more than an assemblage of several houses, badly 
 built, at different times and for different purposes; it has 
 nothing in its exterior from which you could suppose it 
 to be the habitation of the king. All its magnificence 
 is confined to the royal saloon, lately erected according 
 to rules of architecture, and adorned with pillars and 
 other decorations, for the reception and audience of ambas- 
 sadors, and for the public entertainments which are given 
 there with great splendor at the installation of the Knights 
 of the Garter ; and on this account it is called the Ban- 
 quetting Room. The cieling is richly gilded, and deco- 
 rated with pictures of Rubens, which are admirable 
 both in the design and execution. Above the door which 
 leads into the room, and which is opposite the royal 
 throne, is a statue in relief of King Charles L, whose 
 majestic mien delights the spectator, while he is at the 
 same time saddened by the remembrance of the mourn- 
 
368 
 
 ful catastrophe which took place in this very room. On 
 the threshold of the window there are still to be seen 
 drops of blood, which fell there in the execution of that 
 dreadful enormity, so deeply imprinted, that they have 
 not been able to obliterate them from the spot, though 
 they have frequently washed it in the hope of doing so^*? 
 The rest of the king's habitation is mean and out of 
 all order, being divided into lodges, galleries, halls, and 
 chambers, of which there are reckoned to be as many as 
 two thousand. It was in consequence of the great num- 
 ber of these, that the Protector Cromwell, to secure him- 
 self against the attempts which were plotting against his 
 person, and to prevent the place where he slept from 
 being known, went secretly every night first into one and 
 then into another, without even his domestics being ac- 
 quainted with his movements. All the apartments, how- 
 ever, are small, and badly arranged, and without doors; 
 sb that every per^li, whose appearance does not bespeak 
 him to be military, is permitted to go into the king's anti- 
 chamber; on the floor of which stands a clock, which tells 
 not only^e tr6llV,'Mit the way of the wind. In the gal^ 
 lery, formerly enriched by Cardinal Wolsey with choice 
 paintings, which were taken away and sold by Cromwell, 
 tflefe ai-e tiow fastened up some vile daubings of battles 
 
/■ , 
 
 by sea and land, in the time of Hetiry VIII. The other 
 gallery, alongside the king's chamber, which is the first 
 m front of the anti-chamber, is entirely naked, all its 
 treasures consisting of a prospect of a beautiful meadow, 
 laid out like a garden, planted with trees and beautiful 
 hedges of roses, and having four rows of statues in the 
 middle, part of which are of bronze and standing, part 
 of white marble, and, for the most part, in a sitting pos- 
 ture. In the centre, which is surrounded by the statues, 
 there rises a certain structure encircled by iron rails, com- 
 posed of many and different kinds of dials of various 
 shapes, so that there are always more than one of them 
 that shew the sun's shadow. 
 
 The palace of Whitehall has within its precincts se- 
 veral open places [pidzze] but of no great size, one on 
 the outside, and another within the entrance; from the 
 latter, turning to the right, is a passage ii^tp a small 
 ^uare, which leads to the river and to the king*s bowling- 
 green ; and not far from this are the quarters of the 
 Duchess of Richmond, which look upon the river and 
 upon the garden of statues. The Countess of Castel- 
 maine enjoys the same view on one side, and on the 
 other a corresponding one, over the square before the gate 
 of the palace ; this is guarded by a body of carabineers, 
 
 3 B 
 
who stand sentry two at a time on horseback, the horses 
 of the rest standing by ready saddled ; and at the gate 
 from which you pass into the king's apartment, sol- 
 diers mount guard, armed with musquets and pikes ; 
 at the same gate, there are also four pieces of cannon 
 mounted for greater security; and not far from it is the 
 tower, composed of four smaller turrets, and placed over 
 an arch, under which is the road, or street, leading to 
 Westminster Abbey. 
 
 From Whitehall, his highness went to visit the queen's 
 chapel at St. James's, and then returned home, where there 
 dined with him, my Lord Philip Howard, the Earl of So^ 
 merset, Mr. Nevil, and his own gentlemen. 
 
 He spent the afternoon in making farewell visits, and, 
 towards evening, went to the Mall in Hyde Park, where 
 there was a vast number of carriages, filled with ladies and 
 gentlemen, who, out of respect to the day, repaired to 
 this fashionable place of recreation. It was also honored 
 by his majesty himself with his royal presence, who, meet- 
 ing his highness in the Ring, replied to his respectful sa- 
 lutations in the most courteous and affectionate manner. 
 Soon after his majesty had left the Mall to return to the 
 palace, his highness went thither also to pay his custo- 
 mary compliments, going up to the queen's apartments. 
 
where he again saw liis majesty and the duke, of whom 
 he took leave and returned home. 
 
 In order to celebrate the king's birth-day with some es- 
 pecial tokens of joy, his highness caused to be constructed, 
 in the open place before the Earl of St. Alban's house^ 
 iti which his highness lodged, a machine with different 
 fanciful artificial fire-works and squibs, which, as far as 
 the shortness of the time and the skill of the artist pei> 
 mitted, were well contrived, and, during a great part of 
 the night, served to amuse the populace, who flocked 
 thither in great numbers to see them, and to participate 
 in the liberality of the prince, who, for their greater gra- 
 tification, distributed among them several casks of Italian 
 wine and beer, which called forth increased applause, se- 
 conded by discharges of harquebuses and carabines, 
 which were let off by the individuals of his highness's 
 court. 
 
 As the day fixed for his departure from London now 
 drew near, my Lord Newport, who had frequently been a 
 guest at the house of his highness, being desifdos of" re- 
 ceiving him in return at his own, caused this wish to be 
 intimated to him. The prince did not refuse to satisfy 
 him, accepting his invitation to dinner for the morning of 
 the 9th. There m ere present many noblemen, invited by 
 
 S B t 
 
372 
 
 my lord to do his guest greater honor, Colonel Gas- 
 coyne, and the Chevalier Dante. The table was sutnp- 
 tuous and elegantly set out, and enlivened by toasts, ac- 
 cording to the custom of the country. After dinner, his 
 highness went in his carriage through the city, to make 
 an end of the visits that yet remained for him to pay, 
 that he might not defer to the very last moment this 
 piece of attention, by which he had conciliated the uni- 
 srersal esteem of the nobility, who professed themselves in- 
 finitely obliged by the delicacy and polite attention shewn 
 them by his highness. As it was now night, he ended his 
 ride at Whitehall, and dismounted from his carriage at 
 the door leading into the queen's apartment, who still, in 
 consequence of her pregnancy, confined herself to her bed- 
 chamber, and was amusing herself with some of her ladies 
 of honor. The prince made her his customary obeisance, 
 which was as usual graciously received ; and almost at the 
 sslme moment the king and the duke made their appear- 
 ance, with whom he continued some time in conversa- 
 tion.. From the queen's apartments, he went to St. 
 James's Palace, to those of the Duchess of York, for the 
 same purpose of paying his respects, and thence home, 
 wh^re he supped alone in his chamber. 
 aMii Sunday the 1 0th, after mass, his highness went, 
 
373 
 
 with the Chevalier Castiglioni and Colonel Gascoyne, to 
 Whitehall, to the audience of leave, which had been fixed 
 IJy his majesty for that morning, after the service of tlie 
 chapel. He went privately into the cabinet where his 
 majesty was, omitting all exterior formality, as being in- 
 consistent with his incognito. After the audience, which 
 lasted a considerable time, his highness met Prince Ro- 
 bert, and, having mutually complimented each other, they 
 went each hlS Way. At noon he went to theiioQseof 
 Lord Clifford, the treasurer of the household, where, in 
 compliance with his urgent and repeated solicitations, his 
 highness had resolved to dine that day. He was enter- 
 tained with all possible attention by the treasurer, who 
 did not suffer himself to be outdone by any of the others 
 in respect or in magnificence. There were at table, be- 
 low his highness (who on this as on all other occasions 
 occupied the highest seat) besides the two that his high- 
 ness took with him, other gentlemen invited to render the 
 entertainment more lively, and to drink to his highness's 
 prosperous voyage. When the tables were removed, his 
 highness retired for a short time into another room, till it 
 was time for his audience and visit of, leave to the Duke 
 and Duchess of York. At the appdilited hour the prince 
 repaired to his audience of the duke and duchess, with- 
 
374 
 
 out making any alteration in the formalities practised at 
 the preceding one, and which were suitable to the mode- 
 ration invariably observed liy^Ws'highnesS' duriiig his visit 
 to London and to other courts. When he had got over 
 thes^ visits, as it was not yet the time fixed for his audi- 
 ence of the queen, 'he Availed himself of the opportunity 
 to despatch some other visits of ceremony which still re- 
 mained to be paid to other ladies, and then repaired to 
 the palace to his audience of the queen, who was in her 
 bed-chamber with some of her ladies ; and here again he 
 observed, without any variation, the same form as at that 
 of the king. His majesty arrived at the queen's apart- 
 ments while his highness was on the point of taking leave, 
 and took this opportunity of entering into conversation 
 till it was time to go to Hyde Park, whither his majesty 
 was pleased to take his highness in his carriage, seating 
 him in the second place of honor, the Duke of Bucking- 
 ham, the king's principal Master of the Horse and confi- 
 dential servant, being in the third, and my Lord Mande- 
 ville. Gentleman of the Guard, in the fourth. In the 
 evening his majesty returned from Hyde Park, and his 
 highness along with him, going directly to the queen's 
 apartments, on which occasion the prince repeated his 
 parting compliments to his majesty. At night, his ma- 
 
375 
 
 jesty, who, during the whole time of his highness's resi- 
 dence at his court, had testified, in the most hvely man- 
 per, the consideration in jvUi^h he held. him, wished to give 
 a final proof of it by some positive and pubhc demonstra-? 
 tion; and for that purpose, on this evening, which pre* 
 ceded the.p:)<;>rning fixed„&r hia.departure, resolved to sup 
 at the house of his highness, who had already made the 
 requisite preparations with the utmost splendor and mag- 
 nificence: going down stairs, therefore, his majesty re- 
 entered the same carriage which had just before conveyed 
 him and his highness from Hyde Park to WhitehalJ, 
 placing beside him in the second place the Duke of 
 York, in the third the Prince, and in the fourth the 
 Duke of Buckingham, and thus proceeded publicly, with 
 trumpets sounding and lighted torches, accompanied by 
 his horse-guards, and attended by the usual retinue of his 
 courtiers and gentlemen, towards his, highness'^ hpuse, 
 where a crowd of people had assembled in the square out 
 of curiosity to see this procession, which was so much more 
 than usually ceremonious. 
 
 On alighting from the carriage, his highness, with 
 delicate politeness, wished to ofter his majesty his arm, 
 but the king would not permit it ; and alighting, his ma- 
 jesty, escorted by the noblemen and gentlemen of his own 
 
376 
 
 court, and those of his highneSs's court, who stood waiting 
 for him at the door of the house, proceeded towards t\\^ 
 
 Upper apartments, along with the duke and the prfne^' 
 who, to shew greater respect to his royal guest, kept rather 
 behind him, The staircase was lighted by torches, which 
 
 l^re' caitried before and close to his majesty. He was 
 preceded by one of his highness's gentlemen with a candle, 
 
 ,^i3d when be,r^acl|e^ |Ue salc^.^pji^in^^^r^tj^^^ql^- 
 iijtv^^f the supper, being the largest apartment in tJre 
 house, he immediately entered into another adjoining 
 
 /l?CTi )T)lBWKlfe^iR^^*^y^'?"5^ ^;^*^^^'^ office were prepared, 
 owing to the smallness of the place, and from this into 
 another corresponding one, which was the apartment of 
 
 Jjis-highness:,he^e his majesty conversed till supper-time 
 With his highness and the noblemen of his retinue, with 
 the same freedom as is practised in the queen's cabinet. 
 ;. P^he; apartmen^t ^bjoye-^entioned, suitably ornamented, 
 was chosen for the supper, in preference to the others 
 which the house contained. From the ceiling was sus- 
 pended a chandelier of rock chrystal with lighted tapers. 
 In the middle of the room the table was set out, being of 
 an oval figure, convenient both for seeing and convers- 
 
 splendid arm-chair, and in front of it, by themselves, a 
 
 ■> e 
 
W5^ 
 
 knife and fork, tastefully disposeil- tor his majesty ; but 
 he ordered the chair to be removed, and a stool without a 
 back, according to the custo^iH df the country,^'?tfid In^H 
 respects similar to those of the rest of the company, to be 
 put in its place. Haying sat down, his majesty called 
 the Duke of York t6 'Sit by' him on his right hand, and 
 the prince on his left; after them, the Duke of Monmouth, 
 the Duke of Buckingham, the Duke of Ormond, iiij^ Lord 
 Howard, Earl of Arundel, my Lord Philip Howard, his 
 brother, my Lord Gerard, my Lord Croft, my Lord Man- 
 chester, my Lord Arlingtort^'ihy'llord Stafford, Heriiry 
 Germain, Mr. Thynne, and of his highness's gentlemen 
 Colonel Gascoyne, and the Chevalier. Dante, all of whom, 
 to the niiiilb^rol^ seventeen; il^^P^ 'WccStiimodatMdP "found 
 the table, some on one side and some on the other, and 
 there were as many knives and forks, which,, whea they 
 ha3 sat down, they found before them, arranged'in^a fan- 
 ciful and elegant manner. The rest of his highness's 
 gentlemen, with some who belonged to the king's court 
 and that of the duke, stood round tbe table, near their 
 masters. 
 
 The entertainment was most superb, both as to the 
 quantity and quality of the dishes, and as to the rarity 
 
 and exquisiteness of the best Italian wines, and those of 
 
 a c 
 
S7W 
 
 other countries. The supper was served up in eighty 
 magnificent dishes ; many of which were decorated with 
 other smaller ones, filled with various delicious meats. To 
 the service of fruit, succeeded a most excellent course of 
 confectionary, both those of Portugal and other countries 
 famous for the choiceness of their sweetmeats, which was 
 in all respects on a par with the supper that preceded it. 
 But scarcely was it set upon the table, when the whole was 
 carried off and plundered by the people who came to see 
 the spectacle of the entertainment ; nor was the presence of 
 the king sufficient to restrain them from the pillage of 
 these very delicate viands, much less his majesty's soldiers 
 armed with carabines, who guarded the entrance of the sa- 
 k>on, to prevent all ingress into the inside, lest the confine- 
 lifent and too great heat should prove annoying ; so that 
 his majesty, to avoid the crowd, was obliged to rise from 
 table, and retire to his highness's apartment. In addition 
 to the other festivities of the table, there was no want of 
 toasts, proposed by his highness, to the welfare of his ma- 
 jesty and the royal family, and returned by his majesty to 
 his highness's fortunate voyage, and to the prosperity of 
 his Serene House, These were successively repeated to 
 the same effect by the rest of the guests, so that, by thii^ , 
 conviviality, the entertainment was protracted to a great 
 
 * 5 i 
 
579 
 
 length, and finally concluded with a most kind wish ten- 
 dered to his highness by his majesty, and secondedby 
 all present, fdr the continuafibn bf a sincere friendship, 
 and a confirmation of the alliance between the royal fa- 
 mily and the most Serene House of Tuscany. After supper^ 
 his majesty passed nearly an hour in conversation in the 
 prince's apartments, till he was informed that the carriages 
 were ready for his return to the palace. The king then 
 went down stairs with the duke, and with the whole of 
 his retinue, in the same form that he had observe^ iJi 
 coming, and was accompanied by his highness to^th^' 
 door of the house, and as far as the carriage. Having 
 stepped into the carriage with the duke, his majesty re- 
 newed his expressions of courtesy and gratitude to his 
 highness; and when the carriage was about to drive off, 
 the king's majesty intreated the prince to retire to rest as 
 soon as possible, on account of the fatigue which he 
 would have to undergo on the following day, which was 
 fixed for his departure ; but his highness, keeping his 
 hand upon the door of the carriage to prevent it from 
 being closed, instead of taking leave, with great address 
 stepped himself into the carriage to wait on his majesty 
 to the palace, in spite of the opposition of the latter. On 
 
 alighting, his highness repeated the politeness of offering 
 
 set 
 
380 
 
 his arm to his majesty, who, however, would by no means 
 accept of it. They went up to the king s apartments, 
 where his majesty and his highness renewed their mutual 
 compHments ; the king confirming his expressions of good- 
 will by embraces and the most signal tokens of cordiality. 
 When he had taken leave of the king, he exchanged fresh 
 salutations with the Duke of York, who, while the prince 
 was with his majesty, had retired into another room ; and 
 taking leav6 of his royal highness, went to his carriage to 
 return home, whither, by the king's order, he was waited 
 upoTi by the Duke of Buckingham, and the Chevalier 
 Castiglione, who had followed him in another carriage 
 when he went with his majesty to court. On alighting 
 from his carriage, his highness would not suffer the duke, 
 who was desirous of waiting upon him to his apartments, 
 to attend him any farther, it being now late, and consi- 
 derably past midnight; but, dismissing him, retired to 
 
 ^*^The court of England is divided into the king's house- 
 hold, and those of the reigning Queen, of the Queen Mother, 
 of the Duke of York, of the Duchess of York, and of the 
 Duke of Cambridge, son of the Duke of York. 
 
 'In that '^'bf the king there are several offices: among 
 the most considerable that of the Lord Steward is the; 
 
S8i 
 
 first, he having plenaiy authority over all the other officers 
 of the royal household, except those of the chapel, the 
 bed-chamber, and the stables. It is competent to him to 
 judge all offences that are committed within the precincts 
 of the palace, with the exception of the City of London, 
 which is exempt by a special privilege from the king. 
 As a mark of his jurisdiction, he carries a white wand in 
 the king's presence, and when he goes out he causes it to 
 be carried by a page, who walks before him uncovered ; the 
 Duke of Ormond at present fills this situation, with a 
 yearly salary of one himdred pounds sterling, and a table. 
 
 The next is that of Lord Chamberlain, at present held 
 by the Earl of Manchester, whose salary is also one hun- 
 dred pounds sterling per annum, and a table. He has 
 the superintendence of all the officers of the king's privy 
 chamber (but not of the bed-chamber) of the wardrobes 
 in all the royal residences, of the physicians and the barber- 
 surgeons ; and to him belongs the direction of all matters 
 relative to the coronation, marriage, apd funerals of the 
 royal family. 
 
 The third is that of principal Master of the Horse, 
 who was formerly called Constable, which.. i^j^enjoyed by 
 the Duke of Buckingham, with an annual stipend of six 
 
382 
 
 hundred and fifty pounds sterling, and a table. He has 
 the management of all the king's stables and studs, and 
 of the posts throughout the kingdom. The persons who 
 serve in the stables, in whatever situation, are dependent 
 upon him: in public processions he goes immediately 
 behind the king, with a led horse in his hand. 
 
 To these three all the other officers and servants of the 
 royal household are subordinate. Under the Lord Steward 
 are the clerks, who, to the number of sixteen, compose 
 the Chamber of Accompts, at the head of which at pre- 
 sent is Sir Clifford, one of the king's privy coun- 
 cil, with a yearly stipend of one hundred and twenty 
 pounds sterling, and a table. He supplies the place of 
 the Lord Chamberlain in his absence. Subordinate to 
 the same are the Master of the Household, and all the 
 other inferior and subaltern officers of the king's household, 
 of whom there are in all two hundred and forty. 
 
 For the personal service of his chamber the king has 
 several gentlemen and officers. 
 
 ,, The gentlemen of the bed-chamber are chosen by the 
 king, and are for the most part the first peers of the king- 
 dom, distinct from the rest, both by the nature of their 
 duties and by their salaries of a thousand pounds sterling 
 Jdi oi brrj^ii* 
 
383 
 
 per annum each : they attend in the chamber in rotation, 
 a week at a time, sleeping all night upon a mattress. 
 Among them are — ^^ ' 
 
 The Earl of Bath, with the rank of First Gentleman. 
 
 The Duke of Buckingham. 
 
 The Duke of Albemarle. 
 
 The Earl of Suffolk. 
 
 The Earl of Berkshire. mM^llfer 
 
 My Lord Gerard. 
 
 My Lord Lauderdale. i| 
 
 . The Duke of Richmond. 
 
 The Duke of Newcastle. - 
 
 • The Earl of Ossory. 
 
 My Lord Croft. 
 
 My Lord Mandeville. 
 
 There are other inferior officers appointed to the service 
 of the king's chamber, with each his peculiar duties : 
 
 Sir Corbet is Deputy Lord of the Bed-Chamber. 
 
 Sir Griffin is Private Treasurer. 
 
 Sir Hyde, second son of the Earl of Clarendon, 
 
 is Private Master of the Wardrobe. 
 
 The gentlemen of the Privy Chamber in ordinary are 
 eight-and-forty in number, all of them persons of condi^ 
 tion, and knights. Twelve of them are obliged to attend 
 
m 
 
 upon his majesty every day, and to wait upon him at 
 table, bringing in the dishes ; and also when audience is 
 given to ambassadors. Two of them sleep in the anti- 
 chamber, and on the authority of the king's word'alone, 
 without any other written order, they may arrest the peers 
 of the realm. -^ 
 
 The gentlemen who serve in the Bed-Chamber (besides 
 six pages, one of whom has the charge of the royal cabinet) 
 are almost all of them esquires, with a provision of five 
 hundred pounds sterling. They are Messrs. Killigrew, 
 Seymour, Elliott, Hamilton, Coventry, and others, mak- 
 ing up the number of twelve. Besides these, there are 
 others who wait daily in the chamber called the Presence 
 Chamber, in the quality of porters, called Gentlemen 
 Ushers, and when the Parliament is sitting, they always 
 stand at the door of the Upper House, and also of that 
 where the meetings of the Knights of the Garter are held; 
 and these have under their order the inferior servants of 
 the Bed-Chamber. 
 
 . For the service of his table, the king keeps many 
 officers constantly in pay, namely, five cup-bearers, four 
 carvers, four gentlemen, called gentlemen of the king's 
 person, and other servants, called body servants, and ser- 
 vants of the chamber. For the ordinary business of the 
 
 © 
 
«>^ 
 
 385 ^ 
 
 court and of the kingdom, special cheers are appointed, 
 with a .proportionate number of subalterns to each, as 
 well for the service of the wasdrobe, as for what concerns 
 tlie diversion of the chace, and that of the theatre, and for 
 the management of the arsenal and tlie ports of the king- 
 dom. Three of these situations are held in greater estima- 
 tion than the rest, because they are independent of the 
 three first great officers of the royal palace : these are, the 
 Grand Master of the Wardrobe, who is the Earl of Sand? 
 
 wich ; the General of the Artillery, at present Sir -rfe 
 
 Legge, one of the gentlemen that serves in the capacity of 
 
 lieutenant ; the Master of the Mint, Sir Slingsby • 
 
 and the Post-Master General, an office worth twenty 
 thousand pounds sterling per annum, on which account 
 it was given by Parliament to the Duke of York, who 
 taking only the income, leaves the management of the 
 business to the king's secretaries of state. 
 
 For the political government of the kingdom, the king 
 has a privy council, consisting of forty persons, amongst 
 whom are the princes of the blood, and other individuals 
 distinguished for their experience and ability. [For a 
 List of them, see Appendix, B.] 
 
 By a provision of Queen Elizabeth, the secretaries of 
 
 3 D 
 
386 
 
 state are members of the privy council, which rarely as- 
 sembles without the intervention of one of them. This 
 office of secretary of state, which was formerly in the hands 
 of one single person, was divided betwixt two individuals 
 by King Henry VIII., and by him endowed with the 
 special privilege of taking precedence of others of the same 
 degree, though prior in date of creation, and also with an 
 annual salary of two thousand pounds sterling. These 
 situations 'at^e now held by my Lord Arlington, who, with 
 the Duke of Buckingham, enjoys a greater degree of the 
 king« favor and confidence than any other person, and 
 
 Sir — — -^Trevor, deputy for Sir Morrice, who has 
 
 retired from court. They divide betwixt them the Fo- 
 Iteign affairs, and those of the Provinces which carry on 
 commerce with England, each of them receiving and 
 forwarding separately the despatches which come and 
 ^ *^' and from those parts ; but the interior business 
 of the kingdom, both ecclesiastical and military, of 
 whatever description it may be, they transact indiscri- 
 Ihiiiateh^*^^' *>^ ^^^^^ '^^"S^ - -urranfrr- 
 
 ^'■: In the King's Court, which does not yield to any other 
 in magnificence, order, and the quality of its officers, be- 
 sides the ministers appointed to the chapel, to the council 
 
^ 
 
 387 
 
 of state, and to the bed-chamber, there are also military 
 officers, who, divided into different departments, com- 
 mand the body-guard, both foot and horse. 
 
 To support the expenses necessary for maintaining the 
 royal dignity, and for the preservation of the kingdom, the 
 king of England has several sources of revenue, some or- 
 dinary and others extraordinary. The first of these arise 
 from the royal patrimony, called domains, of which he 
 disposes for a given time, to certain specified persons, 
 and in failure of these, the whole reverts to the crown. 
 This patrimony was greatly augmented by the estates ,9f 
 the suppressed abbeys, monasteries, and convents, which 
 were appropriated to it all the time of Henry the Eighth's 
 apostacy ; so that the income of the royal domain^ is 
 valued at an hundred and fifty thousand pounds sterling. 
 These are augmented by monies paid on account of 
 guardianships, by the relations of minow,, ijft.jgrdj^r ,;(;o 
 get rid of the property, which, during the period of their 
 minority, is annexed to the crown ; by the proceeds of 
 remainders, a kind of fine or duty paid to the king for 
 the investiture of feuds ; by what is levied under the 
 head of poundage, a burden laid upon the merchandize 
 which is brought into, or sent out of the kingdom; by 
 the duties laid upon woollen drapery, to make amends 
 
 3 D « 
 
38%, 
 
 for the injury done to the customs by the introduction of 
 the wool-manufactures ; and on other things ; always ex- 
 cepting such as are impoyl^^ for the purpose of being re- 
 exported, and of such as are used in ship-building, and 
 for the purposes of war. They are further encreased by 
 the profits derived frQX»,|b^ .vacancy of bishoprics from 
 the election of bishops^ and from the confiscation of good& 
 in cases of felony. 
 
 The other sources of revenue, which are the extraordi- 
 nary ones, arise, first, from the temporary subsidies that 
 in case of war are voted by Parliament, which the king 
 calls together for that purpose, they being distributed 
 among the lay subjects and ecclesiastics of the kingdom, 
 in proportion either to the estates which they possess, or 
 to the commerce which they carry on, or to the benefices 
 which they enjoy ; and, next, from the taxes which the 
 Parliament grants, for a time, on the cities, towns, and 
 villages of the different provinces, in the proportion of 
 the fifteenth or the tenth part of their actual property. 
 All, however, that the king can derive from these chan- 
 nels does not exceed six millions of crowns, which he 
 employs in keeping up his court, in maintaining garri- 
 sons and ships of war for the protection of the state, the 
 defence of the ports, and the navigation of the sea. 
 
S8^ 
 
 The court of the reignmg queen is not so full of officers 
 as that of the king ; still there is no want of splendor or 
 magnificence, in which it is almost on an equality with 
 the latter ; and to support it, the queen has a yearly in- 
 come of forty thousand pounds sterling, which the king 
 pays her as her appanage^ in addition to twenty thousand 
 pounds sterling which his majesty reserves to pay the in- 
 ferior services of her table, and of the stables. Her chapel 
 is provided with a sufficient number of ministers, under 
 the direction of the Grand Almoner, Philip Howard. 
 
 For the civil management of her court, her majesty 
 has a coiittiJil composed of persons oY rank and conse- 
 quence ; who are — 
 
 Viscount Carbery, Lord Chamberlain. 
 
 Viscount Brounket, Keeper of the Great Seat. 
 
 Sir Montagu, Head Master of the Horse. 
 
 My Lord HoHis, Super intendant of the Household. " 
 
 Sir KilHgrew, Chamberlain. 
 
 Sir Harvey, Treasurer. 
 
 Sir Bellings, Secretary of Memorials. 
 
 Mr. William Montagu, Purveyor-General. 
 
 Mr. Kingsman, Auditor-General. 
 
 Sir Hyde. 
 
 Sir Atkins, Solicitor-General. -^» 
 
390 
 
 Sir Slingsby. 
 
 Mr. Marryot, Secretary to the Council, and Actuary 
 of the Court of Chancery, &c. 
 
 ^s Of her majesty's ladies, the first lady of honor is the 
 Countess of Suffolk, the rest being those who keep the 
 keys of the queen's chamber, and wait at table when she 
 eats privately with the king : they are called Ladies of 
 the Bed-Chamber ; and are the Duchess of Buckingham, 
 the Duchess of Richmond, the Countess of Castlemain, 
 the Countess of Falmouth, the Countess of Bath, and my 
 Lady Howard, all married women. She has also some 
 young unmarried ladies, who live under the direction of 
 Mrs. Sanderson; they are four in number, Miss Wells, 
 Miss Carew, Miss Price, and Miss Baynton: there are 
 also other ladies, to each of whom a specific charge is 
 assigned. 
 
 The service of the privy chamber is performed by six- 
 teen gentlemen, and as many pages, besides numerous 
 other ofiicers of the wardrobe, and of the great chamber ; 
 and, for the service of the table, there are two cup-bearers, 
 two carvers, and two 'squires, all persons of condition. 
 
 The court of the queen mother also is provided with all 
 tlie .offices which are requisite to a royal court, though 
 her majesty's absence from England, and long residence 
 
sgt 
 
 in France, prevent its splendor and magnificence from 
 being visible. 
 
 In the establishment of the Duke and Duchess of 
 York, and the Duke of Cambridge, their eldest son, there 
 are offices equally distinct, and bestowed according to the 
 respective dignity of each, upon suitable persons, who are 
 all paid by the duke out of his ordinary appanage of 
 eighty thousand jacobuses, which is augmented in time 
 of war. In the duke's estiaiblishrtient, my Lord Peter- 
 borough, who was sent by the duke to welcome his high- 
 ness at Blandford, is Head Chamberlain, Sir 
 
 Apsley, Treasurer of the Household, Sir Wick, 
 
 Superintendant of the Domestic Affairs, Sir Ger- 
 main, Head Master of the Horse, Sir Villars, 
 
 Master of the Wardrobe, Dr. Killigrew, Almoner, and 
 the Marquis of Blandford, Captain of the Guard, Private 
 Treasurer. To each of these posts inferior and subor- 
 dinate officers are assigned, with stipends proportioned to 
 their services. In that of the duchess, the ladies of honor 
 are the Duchess of Richmond, who is the First Lady in 
 Waiting, and the Countess of Peterborough; the maids 
 of honor are Miss Howard, Miss Ogle, Miss Churchill, 
 and Miss Blagg, who are under the superintendance of 
 Miss Wise. The rest of the offices of these establish- 
 
392 
 
 / 
 
 ments are divided, according to the duties required of 
 them, amongst individuals of noble birth, and those of 
 inferior consideration. 
 
 In the Establishment of the Duke of Cambridge, the 
 head situation is that of Mrs. Villars, who has the title qC 
 Governess; and, when she is engaged, her place is supplied 
 by Miss Gilbert. There are other ladies, pages, and ser- 
 vants, for the service of the chamber and of the table. 
 
 On the morning of the 11th, his highness rose early, 
 and hastened the preparations for the removal of his 
 household, being resolved upon leaving London at the 
 time he had fixed. 
 
 London, which is not only the capital city of the 
 county of Middlesex, but also the residence of the Kings 
 of England, and the metropolis of the whole island, stands 
 on the banks of the Thames, and, mounting a gently rising 
 eminence, spreads over it in the shape of a half-moon. 
 London is divided by the principal stream of the river 
 into two parts, which are joined by a bridge of nineteen 
 arches, built in a good style : of these two parts, that which 
 is on the left, stretching itself along the water side, is much 
 greater than the other, called Southwark, which is on the 
 right. The city is longer than it is broad, by many 
 miles. Its circumference is very great, and with the 
 
S93 
 
 addition of its villages, is larger, and contains more 
 houses than Paris, but not so numerous a population. 
 In former days, it was much smaller than at present, 
 being surrounded by a wall, comprising pretty nearly 
 that part which is called Old London, having seven gates, 
 upon which are to be seen, fixed up as trophies of jus- 
 tice, the heads and other remains of the persons, who, 
 violating the law of nations, conspired to murder 
 Charles I. That of Cromwell is fixed upon a ^pike 
 over Westminster Hall, and otliers, upon the bridge. 
 
 At present, London is dismantled, and without walls ; 
 and, with the exception of the Tower, has no other for- 
 tification round it, than some half-moons, thrown up ill 
 the late civil wars. The houses, for the most part, are of 
 little note and of a common description, not very high, 
 nor inhabited as at Paris, there being seldom more than 
 one family in each, except in that of the New Exchange, 
 which is very near the court, and they are built of wood 
 and ill-baked bricks. In the late fire, there were con- 
 sumed upwards of twelve thousand of them, situate in 
 ninety-seven parishes; besides other edifices more con- 
 spicuous for their size and grandeur, among which, 
 the magnificent church of St. Paul is quite ruined, no 
 part of that large building being left standing, except 
 
 S£ 
 
394 
 
 the walls, nor is there any hope of seeing it again in its 
 former state. ^ * 
 
 To provide against the damage which might arise in 
 future from fire, when it accidentally breaks out in any 
 part of the city (for in the recent conflagration the da- 
 mage was very considerable, there being consumed, in the 
 course of nine days, merchandize to the amount of seve- 
 ral millions, with all the booksellers' shops, which in St. 
 Paul's Church Yard were very numerous and valuable) 
 an edict has been published enjoining people to build 
 with stone and brick, and to employ as little wood as 
 possible ; so that they now only use the latter to make 
 the frame- work of the houses, the architraves, door-posts, 
 and windows, constructing all the other parts of stone 
 ^nd brick. In a short time, more than five thousand 
 houses, which were destroyed by the fire, have been rebuilt 
 in a more regular and symmetrical manner, approxi- 
 imating to the good style introduced into Italy, and quite 
 different from the ancient mode of building in use in this 
 kingdom. They have taken the same opportunity of 
 widening and straightening the streets for the convenience 
 of carriages and foot-passengers, making them, like those 
 beyond the precincts of Old London, more piodern, paved 
 with stone, and elevated in the middle, with channels for 
 
395 
 
 water at the sides. The advantage to the possessor of land 
 may be understood from this circumstance ; that though 
 he lets his land for a term of years, yet it is for a 
 high price, and at the end of the term the buildings 
 erected on it become his property. During that time> 
 however, the builder not only indemnifies himself for 
 the expense he has been at, by letting the houses, but also 
 clears a considerable sum ; on which account, the build-^ 
 ings are multiplying every day and along with them, the 
 rents of those who possess ground fit for the purpose, pro* 
 vided it be at a distance from the river, along the banks 
 of which no more buildings are allowed to be erected, it 
 being wished to extend the city in breadth, and to cor- 
 rect the defect under which it labours of being very long 
 and too narrow. This system is greatly to the advantage 
 of the Earl of St Albans, who is the owner of the whole 
 of the square or place in which is the house he used to 
 inhabit ; this, in a little time, he will see covered with 
 buildings, of which he will be the absolute proprietor. 
 
 London, with the adjoining villages, contains one hun- 
 dred and twenty parishes, so that from its size, the 
 richness of its commerce, and the number of its inha- 
 bitants, it may with justice be ranked among the prin- 
 cipal cities of Europe. It is governed by the mayor, and 
 
 3 £ t 
 
396 
 
 the council composed of its own citizens, without being 
 at all subordinate to the royal tribunals in matters of jusr 
 tice, or to the courts of augmentation or taxation, which 
 levy the annual assessments on the roads of the kingdom, 
 jmd on hearths, at the rate of two shillings each. It is 
 exempt, in consequence of having frequently supplied 
 money to the crown by way of loan, from this burden, 
 which, as well as the duty upon beer, is one of the per- 
 quisites of the king. Its population, although very great, 
 being estimated at about four hundred and fifty thousand 
 persons, out of which number thirty thousand or there- 
 abouts are reckoned to be in Old London alone, is yet 
 not so numerous as that of Paris. Nevertheless, in the 
 latter city, though the inhabitants are more numerous, 
 the consumption of butchers' meat is much greater in 
 London, either because there are no abstinence-days, or 
 in consequence of their voracity, the English eating more 
 meat than any thing else ; and on this account, there are 
 slaughtered there, every day, besides other animals, three 
 thousand oxen, with large joints of which their tables are 
 covered. 
 
 The common people of London, giving way to their 
 natural inclination, are proud, arrogant, and uncivil to 
 foreigners, against whom, and especially the French, they 
 
397 
 
 entertain a great prejudice, and cherish a profound hatred, 
 treating such as come among them with contempt and 
 insult. The nobiHty, though also proud, have not so 
 usually the defects of the lower orders, displaying a cer- 
 tain degree of politeness and courtesy towards strangers ; 
 and this is still more the case with those gentlemen who 
 have been out of the kingdom, and travelled, they having 
 taken a lesson in politeness from the manners of other 
 nations. Almost all of them speak French and Italian, 
 and readily apply themselves to learn the latter language 
 from the good-will which they entertain towards our 
 nation; and, although by their civil treatment of foreign 
 gentlemen, whom they endeavour to imitate, they mode- 
 rate a little that stiffness or uncouthness which is pecu- 
 liar to them, yet they fail in acquiring such good manners 
 as to put them on a level with the easy gentility of the 
 Italians, not being able to get the better of a certain 
 natural melancholy, which has the appearance of eternally 
 clouding their minds with unpleasant thoughts. 
 
 The English in general are, by nature, proud, phleg- 
 matic in execution, and patient in their behaviour, so that 
 they never hurry those who work for them by an indis- 
 creet impatience, but suffer them to go on at their own 
 pleasure and according to their ability; this proceeds 
 
398 
 
 from their melancholy temperament, for which those who 
 live in the North of Englakud are more remarkable than 
 those in the South; the former being saturnine, and the 
 latter somewhat more lively. They consider a long time 
 before they come to a determination; but having once 
 decided, their resolution is irrevocable, and they maintain 
 their opinion with the greatest obstinacy. It is a com- 
 mon custom with the lower order of people, however, 
 rather than with the nobility, who are less given to it, 
 after dinner or at public houses, when they are transact- 
 ing business of any kind, to take tobacco, and smoke, so 
 that there does not pass a day in which the artizans do 
 not indulge themselves in going to the public-houses, 
 which are exceedingly numerous, neglecting their work, 
 however urgent it may be; hence it is, that the French 
 make fortunes in London, for, being more attentive to 
 their business, they sell their manufactures at a lower 
 price than the English, who would fain derive the same 
 profits as other artizans, however Jlittle they wftyk* 
 "';, The English are men of a handsome countenance and 
 shape, and of an agreeable complexion, which is attribu- 
 table to the temperature of the climate, to the nature of 
 their food, and to the use of beer rather than wine, and, 
 above all, to the salubrity of the air, which is almost 
 
399 
 
 always clear ; that thick atmosphere which is seen from a 
 distance hovering over London, not being caused by cor- 
 riipt vapours, but arising casually from the smoke of the 
 mineral coal from Scotland, which issues from the chim- 
 neys, and which the coal, being an oleaginous substance,'' 
 produces in great quantities. 
 
 The women of London are not inferior to the men 
 either in stature or in beauty, for they are all of them 
 handsome, and for the most part tall, with black eyes, 
 abundance of light-coloured hair, and a neatness which is 
 extreme, their only personal defect being their teeth, which 
 are not, generally speaking, very white. They live with all 
 the liberty that the custom of the country authorizes. This 
 custom dispenses with that rigorous constraint and reser- 
 vedness which are practised by the women of other coun-*^ 
 tries, and they go whithersoever they please, either alone^ 
 or in company; and those of the lower order frequently 
 go so far as to play at ball publicly in the streets. They 
 are very fond of paying respect to foreigners, and in so- 
 ciety shew them a vast deal of courtesy and attention. 
 The slightest possible introduction is sufficient to be 
 admitted to their conversation, on the same terms as their 
 countrymen and relations, who, on their parts, behave to 
 them with the greatest modesty, holding female honor in 
 
400 
 
 the highest respect and veneration. They do not easily 
 fall in love, nor throw themselves into the arms of men ; 
 but if they are smitten by the amorous passion, they be- 
 come infatuated, and sacrifice all their substance for the 
 sake of the beloved object, and if he deserts them, they 
 are sunk into great despair and affliction. Their style of 
 dressing is very elegant, entirely after the French fashion, 
 and they take more pride in rich clothes (which are worn 
 of value even by women of the lowest rank) than in pre- 
 cious jewels, all their expense in the latter article being 
 confined to pearls, of which they wear necklaces of very 
 great price; consequently, pearls are in great esteem and 
 request in England. They are remarkably well-informed 
 in the dogmas of the religion they profess ; and when they 
 attend at the discourses of their ministers or preachers, 
 they write down an abridgement of what they say, having 
 in their letters, abbreviations, which facilitate to them and 
 to the men also (thanks to their natural quickness and 
 the acuteness of their genius) the power of doing this with 
 rapidity; and this they do that they may afterward avail 
 themselves of it in the controversies and disputes which 
 they hold on religious matters. Such and so great is the 
 respect which the English entertain for their women, that 
 in their houses the latter govern every thing despotically, 
 
401 
 
 making themselves feared by the men, courageous as they 
 are on other occasions, and of a most manly spirit, and 
 valiant in war, both by land and sea, to a degree that 
 amounts almost to rashness. The truth of this remark 
 may be seen by recurring to the history of the times when 
 they have been governed by queens, who have reigned 
 over them with an authority that was absolute, and more 
 decided than that of kings themselves. 
 
 There is no want of any thing whatever in London, 
 because all things go on regularly and in order. For the 
 accommodation of those who have business which obliges 
 them to go about in different directions, there are found 
 at every corner decent coaches, well equipped, to carry 
 passengers either into the country or about the city ; of 
 these there are reckoned to be altogether eight hundred ; 
 they are taken by time, charging so much an hour, 
 and something extra for the first: and on the Thames, all 
 the way from Windsor to the Fleet, there are ten thousand 
 small boats, to take persons up and down the river, or to 
 ferry them over from one side to the other. For the per-, 
 feet security of walking in the city by day, not only all 
 danger of violence, but even all fear or suspicion is 
 removed by the prohibition against carrying arms ; and, 
 therefore, with the exception of foreigners, few wear a 
 
402 
 
 sword. At night, the streets are lighted till a certain 
 hour in the morning, by large lanterns, disposed in vari- 
 ous forms, and fixed with great regularity against the 
 doors of houses; and whenever you wish for them, you may 
 find boys at every step, who run before you with lighted 
 torches. To obviate the disorders which might arise in 
 consequence of quarrels, or other offences, there is ap- 
 pointed, in every one of the six-and-twenty wards into which 
 London is divided, a constable, who on such occasions 
 attends, and orders the quarrellers or delinquents to be 
 taken up; and let their rank be what it may, they are 
 obliged to submit, being driven by force into prison, or 
 confined in certain machines called stocks, which are 
 prepared for the purpose. To guard the city, some of 
 the inhabitants are obliged every night to go the rounds, 
 and to patrole the streets of their ward, armed with hal- 
 berds ; and whoever is guilty of any excess, they lodge in 
 the parish prison, in order to present him in the morning 
 at the criminal bar; consequently the city can be traversed 
 and business carried on freely and securely at all hours, 
 there being appointed by the public, for the convenience 
 of traders and others, certain persons called sworn porters, 
 who execute with approved fidelity whatever is committed 
 to their charge, carrying even money in large sums. 
 
405 
 
 London abounds in provisions of all kinds, the conve- 
 nience of navigation conveying thither from the most 
 remote parts every delicacy or expensive luxury that is 
 not produced in the kingdom ; therefore, whoever does 
 not like the different kinds of beer, which are far better 
 than those of any other country, as ale, cyder, and the 
 delicious and exquisite bottled beer (bouteille-biere) and 
 another sort of beer made with the body of a capon, which 
 is left to grow putrid along witK the malt, may satisfy 
 himself with the wines of France and Spain, especially 
 the clarets of Provence and Languedoc, those of the Rhine, 
 of Candia, of Naples, and of Florence, of which there is 
 an abundant supply at the tables of the English nobility, 
 who are anxious to have the most delicate and most 
 valuable wines, without sparing expense. It is, therefore, 
 by no means wonderful, that, by this liberal mode of living, 
 they should consume the greatest part of their fortunes, 
 which, however, are very considerable, an income of 
 two or three thousand pounds sterling not being thought 
 much of in England, and the possessor of it making no 
 great figure, nor holding high rank in consequence. 
 Hence it is that the younger brothers of great fami- 
 lies are more considered on account of their birth than 
 their inheritance, which is confined to two or three thou- 
 
 S F « 
 
 ( ; 
 
404 
 
 sand crowns per annum at the most, being in propor- 
 tion to the principal fortune of the family, enjoyed by 
 the eldest, along with the dignity of duke, marquis, earl, 
 or baron (these being mere titles conferred by the king, 
 without any jurisdiction in the counties or towns from 
 which they take their name, the number of peers being 
 greater than that of the provinces) and this income, in 
 the case of Catholics, is less by one third, being the 
 common diminution which is made of the property of 
 all who openly profess themselves of that religion : and 
 that there may be no fraud from persons pretending to 
 be apparently Protestants, while they are in their hearts 
 Catholics, they force those who are so suspected to take 
 the oath of allegiance, which is the touch-stone to as- 
 certain who really observes the truth of the Catholic faith ; 
 for such will by no means give authenticity by an oath 
 to that false belief which is comprehended in the last for- 
 mula of it, as published by Act of Parliament, and va- 
 ried from the ancient one prescribed by Henry VIII. 
 and Queen Elizabeth. It is as follows : — 
 
 " Juro et credo Ecclesiam Romanam non esse veram 
 Ecclesiam ; non dari transubstantiationem, purgato- 
 rium ; Imagines vel Crucifixa non esse veneranda : per 
 bona opera salutem acquiri, Romanum Pontificem in 
 
405 
 
 Anglia, Scotia, vel Hibernia nee jurisdictionem ullam 
 habere, neque posse aliquem ab hoc juramento absol- 
 
 vere." 
 
 In the environs of London are spacious meadows, 
 it being thought more advantageous to leave them 
 thus uncultivated, and reserve them for the pasture of 
 cattle, of which vast hordes are to be seen there, to 
 provide for the consumption of the city ; and many 
 pleasure-houses are scattered up and down among 
 them, which, from their modern style of building, are 
 more deserving of observation than the edifices of London, 
 which in themselves are inconsiderable, if we except the 
 Tower of London, an ancient structure of the time of 
 King John, son of Henry II. ; the new Saloon at White- 
 hall ; Westminster Hall ; St. Paul's Church, three hun- 
 dred paces long and seventy wide (which was polluted by 
 Cromwell, and used as a stable for the cavalry of his body- 
 guard, and for the purposes of business) and the house 
 lately built by the lord chancellor. 
 
 The court of the king of England keeps up less reserve 
 than that of other princes, it being there very easy to see 
 the king, who, as he was obliged by the circumstances of 
 the kingdom to lead in his early years a common and 
 almost private life, an exile and a wanderer, so it is still 
 
406 
 
 necessary that he should shew affection towards his sub- 
 jects, and afFabihty towards strangers ; and this is the 
 style which the English like, as best suited to their go- 
 vernment, which, though it is monarchical, yet admits no 
 small mixture of other forms ; and, on this account, the 
 king, in order to conciliate the love and esteem of the no- 
 blemen and gentlemen of the kingdom, converses with them 
 with all the familiarity that his high rank will allow; and 
 the nobility endeavour to conform to his example in their 
 dealings with their inferiors, that they may secure from 
 them that obedience and respect which an uncivil or con- 
 temptuous mode of treatment would fail to obtain. Since 
 his re-establishment on the throne, the king has ame- 
 liorated the condition of his royal estate, and, in some 
 respects, moderated the authority which King Edward I. 
 2fave to the House of Commons in order to lower the 
 bishops and the peers of the kingdom, without perceiv- 
 ing that by so doing he was also lowering the crown. 
 From the liberty so granted, have proceeded those un- 
 fortunate events, which the Lower House has brought 
 about in order to keep up its own power, under the false 
 pretext of reforming abuses. The king can now, at his 
 pleasure, adjourn or dissolve Parliament, in which he 
 contrives to have persons upon whom he has conferred 
 
407 
 
 benefits, and who are dependant upon him, being very 
 cautious, at the same time, not to render the court odious 
 to the Commons, and regulating all his actions with a 
 view to the public tranquillity, and to the encrease of the 
 national honor, the object to which the pretensions of the 
 English invariably tend. A close union with the nobility 
 contributes much to strengthen the king's authority, be- 
 cause they serve as a barrier against the insolence and 
 capricious disposition of the people, who have not so great 
 an affection for their king as they ought to have ; on the 
 contrary, in the private discourses which they hold in 
 their leisure hours (and in these leisure hours and in 
 smoking their pipes the greatest part of the day is con- 
 sumed) they do not scruple to pass censure upon the ac- 
 tions of the king, talking with unbecoming liberty of public 
 affairs, of contributions, of the employment of the public 
 revenues, and the stagnation of commerce ; and, following 
 the bent of their natural vicious inclinations, which make 
 them delight in similar discourses, they cannot refrain from 
 odiously comparing the present government with the late 
 one of Cromwell, magnifying the power of the fleets, the 
 alliances, and the reputation of their nation in those times, 
 with many other reflections of a like nature, which are 
 fomented by the licence of their Parliaments in the uneasy 
 
408 
 
 minds of the common people, and those who are discon- 
 tented with the court. 
 
 The nobihty, from the protection which his majesty 
 affords them, entertain benevolent sentiments towards the 
 king, were it not that envy of the good fortune of others, 
 and of the confidence reposed in them, diminishes this 
 feeling. They do not see without dissatisfaction the ad- 
 vancement of their equals ; and this was the real motive 
 of the impeachment of the Earl of Bristol, and of the 
 change to which the Earl of Clarendon was exposed, at 
 that time the favorite minister of the king, both on ac- 
 count of his peculiar abilities in the management of poli- 
 tical affairs and the tie of relationship. The Duke of 
 Buckingham and my Lord Arlington have now raised 
 themselves to this post; both of them, from important 
 services rendered to the royal family, in and out of the 
 kingdom, during the late disturbances, deserving of this 
 preference and the king's kindness, which they use with 
 the utmost, circumspection, to preserve themselves, if pos- 
 sible, in this state of favor, which, however, in the opinion 
 of many, will, for various reasons, not be very lasting. 
 
 It is difficult to ascertain what is the state of religion^ 
 either in London or in the whole kingdom of England, 
 from the confusion in which it is involved : for, after the 
 
409 
 
 death of Charles I., when Cromwell usurped the title of 
 Protector, the government thought it for its interest to 
 leave at full liberty the practice of every heresy and 
 every sect, prohibiting only that of the Catholic religion ; 
 the Parliament, which he assembled in the year 1654, not 
 having succeeded in reconciling, with the vain semblance of 
 the ancient liberty, the introduction of one faith in mat- 
 ters of religion. This was owing to the stout opposition 
 of the Sectarians, who, at the present time, are able to 
 disseminate at discretion their false doctrines, to invent 
 and re-establish new sects, and to propagate the old ones 
 without interruption, as Cromwell himself did in the case 
 of the Independents, of whom he professed himself a fol- 
 lower. Amidst the multiplicity of so many opinions, 
 which were considered the more sound in proportion as 
 they seceded from the Ecclesiastical Estabishment, various 
 factions started up, of which those of the Presbyterians, 
 the Puritans, and the Independents, were the most pre- 
 valent, being all of them adherents of Calvinism, but 
 with articles in some respects differing from each other. 
 Consequently at this day, those are much the most nu- 
 merous, who profess opinions contrary to the episco- ><'" 
 pal dignity and to ecclesiastical prelacy, confining the ^'.jt > ^/l^ 
 whole ministry of religion to the Presbyters. These hold 
 
 3 O 
 
410 
 
 in abhorrence the Church Liturgy of those who follow the 
 religion of the king, called that of the state, and also the 
 Directory composed by the Archbishop of Canterbury, 
 William Laud, with the advice of the Protestant bishops 
 and doctors, and published, in order to produce an uni 
 formity of prayers and ceremonies throughout all the three 
 kingdoms, by order of Charles I. When that monarch 
 afterwards espoused Henrietta Maria of Bourbon, daugh- 
 ter of Henry IV., the Puritans (who are reformed after 
 the usage of Geneva, and who still appropriate to them- 
 selves the name of Presbyterians) were greatly afraid lest, 
 by degrees, the queen should succeed in mitigating the 
 severity of the edicts against Catholics, and by that means 
 induce the adherents of the Hierarchy to unite together 
 and accomplish their extinction ; and, on this account, 
 the antipathy of the Presbyterians against the government 
 of bishops has always been kept alive, rather on account 
 of the exterior conformity to the Catholic ceremonies 
 retained in the churches of England ever since the schism 
 of Henry VHT., than from any hatred which they bear 
 towards their corrupt doctrines; and they have spread them- 
 selves to such an extent, and have encreased in so much 
 greater numbers than the Conformists (so they of the 
 Anglican Liturgy are called) that they have obtained leave 
 
411 
 
 for the public exercise of their sect, which is not granted 
 to any other except the Anglican. This prohibition 
 was highly necessary; for as soon as the king returned 
 peaceably to London and to his kingdom, he determined 
 to re-establish the Ecclesiastical Hierarchy, the subver- 
 sion of which was the first beginning of the innovations 
 in the state and in religion in the time of Charles I., 
 made and fomented by the Presbyterians and others of 
 the Calvinistic Sectarians, who, finding the king's good- 
 nature in yielding to the insolence of the Parliamentarians, 
 proceeded to such a pitch as even to pass a positive cen- 
 sure upon his mode of government ; and took advantage of 
 the conjuncture to destroy entirely both the Catholic 
 faith and the Anglican religion, introduced by Henry 
 VIII., and propagated by Queen Elizabeth : and for 
 political reasons, in order to strengthen himself upon 
 his throne, the king has judged it necessary (notwith- 
 standing that the Presbyterians had strongly co-operat- 
 ed in his restoration) to replace the episcopal govern- 
 ment in its former consideration, as being more conso- 
 nant with the principles of monarchy, and instilling into 
 subjects reverence for those at the head of affairs, which is 
 not the case with Presbyterians, the genius of whose sect 
 is republican and hostile. He immediately restored to 
 
 3 O S 
 
412 
 
 the Hierarchy, for the performance of the ceremonies or- 
 dained by the Act of Uniformity, all the churches formerly 
 applied to the exercise of the Catholic faith. 
 
 The latter, owing to the religious disposition of the 
 queen, now breathes a little in England, being kept up 
 in as good a shape as the rigorous spirit of Parliament 
 Avill allow, rather by the zeal of foreigners than by the 
 natives, who are not accustomed to see the performance 
 of the rites of the Holy Roman Church. The preachers 
 of the Anglican religion have but a thin attendance at 
 their discourses, the people thronging in much greater 
 crowds to the meetings of the Presbyterian sect ; from 
 which, as well as from that of the Hierarchy, which is a 
 mixture of Calvinism and Lutheranism, have since been 
 derived all those numerous and sub-divided Sectarians 
 which are now to be found in London, daily multiplying in 
 all the vigour of independence. They are as follow : — 
 
 Protestants or those of the Established Religion, Pu- 
 ritans, Presbyterians, Atheists, Brownists, Adamites, Fa- 
 milists or the Family of Love, Anabaptists, Libertines, 
 Independents, Fanatics, Arians, Antiscripturists, Mille- 
 narians, Memnonists, Enthusiasts, Seekers, Sabbatarians, 
 Antisabbatarians, Perfectionists, Fotinians, Antitrinita- 
 rians, Sceptics, Tremblers or Quakers, Monarchists or 
 
413 
 
 Fifth Monarchy-Men, Socinians, Latitudinarians, Ori- 
 genites, Deists, Chiliasts, Antinomians, Armenians, Quin- 
 tinists, Ranters, and Levellers. 
 
 The sect of the Protestants, or those of the Established 
 Religion, had its origin from King Henry VI II., in the year 
 1533, when, growing tired of Queen Catherine, daughter 
 of the Catholic Sovereigns Ferdinand and Isabella, and 
 widow of Prince Arthur, his brother, whom he had mar- 
 ried by an apostolic dispensation from Julius II., he di- 
 vorced her, being spirited up by Cardinal Wolsey against 
 the opinion of the doctors of Rome and Oxford. This 
 produced the schism which separated England from its 
 allegiance to the Holy See, and introduced the Hierarchy, 
 or the Government of Bishops, the king constituting him- 
 self Head of the Church, usurping this title in the public 
 prayers, and making the spiritual office subordinate to 
 the temporal; for the bishops in England are not in sub- 
 jection to any other of their own order. Hence it is that 
 they abuse their jurisdiction, imposing pecuniary fines, 
 that they may appropriate the money to themselves ; and 
 fulminating censures for the slightest causes, that they 
 may take occasion to deprive the excommunicated of 
 burial in the public church-yard, unless they buy off the 
 prohibition with money. They hold many benefices that 
 
414 
 
 are incompatible with each other, leaving the charge of 
 the cures either to servants or to persons of small ac- 
 count. They dispose of the property and possessions of 
 their sees at their own discretion, without any participa- 
 tion on the part of the chapter, or council ; and yet with 
 all their independence they exact the greatest respect from 
 inferior ecclesiastics, who are afraid to speak, or wear their 
 hats in their presence. They are also bound by an oath, 
 called the Canonical Oath, by which they affirm, that the 
 administration of the Anglican Church by bishops, deans, 
 abbots, and other inferior prelates of the Hierarchy, 
 and their Liturgy, do not contain any thing contrary to 
 the Word of God, which the preachers publish in their 
 slanderous discourses, in conformity with the articles and 
 false dogmas concluded upon at the time of the apostacy 
 of Henry VHI. ; confirmed and augmented by his son 
 King Edward VI., and successively renewed and ampli- 
 fied by Queen Elizabeth. These preachers have all the 
 trouble, while the honors and advantages are in the hands 
 of the bishops, who keep up the dignity of the Hierarchy 
 of the Anglican sect. This is denominated the Par- 
 liamentarian Sect of Calvinised Protestants, being intrin- 
 sically for the most part Calvinistic, though externally it 
 it is almost entirely Lutheran. 
 
415 
 
 DOGMAS ESTABLISHED BY KING HENRY VIII. 
 
 1. That it was lawful for King Henry to divorce his 
 lawful wife, and to take another during her life-time. 
 
 2. Mary, legitimate daughter of Henry, ought to be 
 considered illegitimate, and deprived of the succession to 
 the crown. 
 
 3. That the marriage of Henry >vith Anna Boleyne is 
 legitimate, and whoever refuses to affirm this upon oath, 
 shall be deprived of all his property and his life. 
 
 4. That the Roman Pontiff has no jurisdiction in 
 England. 
 
 5. That the king is the supreme terrestrial Head of the 
 Anglican Church. 
 
 6. That it is the king's place to do away heresies, errors, 
 and all abuses, of his own authority. 
 
 7. The king can at his pleasure apply the property of 
 ecclesiastics to his own use. 
 
 8. That the word Pope be erased from all books. 
 
 9. That the writings of the ancient fathers and doctors 
 of the church, which prove the Primacy of the Roman 
 Pontiff, be corrected and removed from libraries on pain 
 of capital punishment. 
 
416 
 
 10. That in the public prayers which are to be made 
 for the genera! weal, this clause be added: — From the 
 tyranny and detestable enormities of the Roman Pontiff, 
 Good Lord, deliver us. 
 
 11. Of the seven Sacraments, three only were instituted 
 by Christ. Satisfaction has no reference to penance. 
 
 12. There is no purgatory. 
 
 Besides these, it was decreed by an Act of Parliament, 
 that every body should believe and observe the following 
 Articles. '^'^"'* *■ 
 
 ARTICLES OF PARLIAMENT. 
 
 -'1. In the Sacrament of the Eucharist, the real body 
 and blood of Christ is contained under the appearance of 
 bread and wine. 
 
 2. To communicate under one kind alone, is sufficient 
 to obtain salvation. 
 
 3. The priests, without exception, are obliged to ob- 
 serve chastity. 
 
 m 4. The religious are, in conscience, obliged to the ob- 
 servation of the three vows. 
 
 5. The offering of the sacrifice of the mass is accept- 
 able to God. 
 
417 
 
 6 To hear private masses is useful and necessary to a 
 Christian. 
 
 7. Auricular confession must be observed in the Church 
 indispensably. 
 
 8. Whoever shall teach any thing contrary to these 
 assertions shall be punished as guilty of high treason. 
 
 The above were published by Act of Parliament through- 
 out the provinces of England. 
 
 In the time of Edward VI., the Parliament having 
 been assembled in the year 1547, a new formulary in 
 matters of faith and religion was established by Edward 
 Seymour, guardian and protector of the kingdom, and 
 vice-head of the English Church, with the advice and as- 
 sistance of Thomas Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury 
 and Primate of the kingdom. This was called 
 
 THE CONSTITUTION OF EDWARD THE SIXTH. 
 
 1. All the ornaments of the churches, and the eccle- 
 siastical revenues, annual offerings, and all that remains 
 in England of the spiritual things of the Church, are, in 
 future, understood to belong to King Edward. 
 
 2. The dignity and titles of archbishops, archdeacons, 
 priests, and curates, are preserved inviolate in the Anglican 
 
 9H 
 
418 
 
 Church, but with this proviso, that the said ecclesiastical 
 ministers are to be ordained with rites different from those 
 of Rome. i^*«* 
 
 3. Images and crosses are to be removed from all 
 places whatever, and the arms of the king, or those of the 
 kingdom, to be put up in their stead. 
 
 4. It is forbidden to celebrate mass after the Romish 
 manner in any place whatever. ^ .,. uhvrvnn, 
 
 5. All the sacred offices shall be performed in the 
 Vulgar Tongue, to the end that all may understand them, 
 'fi- 6. The Lord's Supper, under one or both kinds, to be 
 administered to whoever requires it. 
 
 7. All persons are to believe and swear, that the King 
 of England is the Supreme Head of the Anglican Church. 
 
 8. That the Popish priests, and all the religious, as 
 being disturbers of the public peace, shall quit both king- 
 doms imder pain of death. 
 
 Under Queen Elizabeth were promulgated the following 
 
 f ECCLESIASTICAL CANONS AND DECREES. ^«« 
 
 1. In celebrating mass, it is not permitted to any 
 priest to elevate the host. biH^i** Ii 
 
 2. The oath of supremacy to the queen is to be taken 
 
419 
 
 in both courts of justice by all persons, and especially by 
 ecclesiastics. 
 
 3. Whoever will not take the oath according to that 
 formula, is to be deprived of his life and his property. 
 
 4. It is declared, that all the privileges which may be- 
 long to any person whatever, either secular or ecclesiasti- 
 cal, in respect of the reformation or correction of the clergy, 
 and in respect to the cognizance of errors, heresies, abuses, 
 and schisms, do in future belong to the queen, lu, ^.^ 
 
 5. It is declared, that the power of substituting what- 
 ever may seem good in the ex^r9J|&e,.pf the ecclesiastical 
 jurisdiction, belongs to the queen and her successors. 
 
 6. The clergy shall not hold synods, nor make canons 
 nor laws, without the queen's consent, on pain of punish- 
 ment at her majesty's discretion. 
 
 7. No one, under the same penalty, shall go out of 
 the queen's dominions, to assist at councils or congre- 
 gations for purposes of religion, without her majesty's 
 permission. 
 
 8. In future, no bishops, nor the dignities of such, shall 
 be considered legitimate, except those whom her majesty 
 shall nominate, create, or consecrate, by herself or by de- 
 legated authority ; and these shall only exercise their au- 
 thority during her majesty's pleasure. 
 
 3 H S 
 
420 
 
 9. That the laymen to whom the queen had delegated 
 her authority in spiritual matters, shall have the same 
 privileges in the exercise of it as her majesty herself. 
 
 10. No one shall be considered an heretic, and no 
 opinion shall be condemned as such, unless it appears 
 expressly to be such by the authority of one of the first 
 four general councils, or of scripture, or unless it be de- 
 clared such by the authority of Parliament. 
 
 11. Masses, private as well as public, are forbidden 
 under heavy penalties. 
 
 Y' 1 2. Under the same penalties, ecclesiastics are forbidden 
 to administer the sacraments after the Romish manner, 
 and the divine offices are to be celebrated every where in 
 the Vulgar Tongue. 
 
 1 3. The titles of the archbishops, and of the other ec - 
 clesiastical dignitaries, are to be universally observed. 
 «( 14. That the ecclesiastics shall use the same dress, to 
 distinguish them from the laity, which they used formerly 
 when they were Papists. 
 
 # 15. The churches, altars, crosses, organs, singing, bells, 
 and images of saints, are to be retained. 
 
 16, Supplications are to be made in the churches for 
 the dead. 
 
 17. The Lord's Supper is to be administered to com- 
 
421 
 
 nuinicants under both kinds, so that one minister may 
 present the bread, and the other the wine. 
 
 18. The holy-days of Christ, and of the Apostles, are 
 to be observed by every body. 
 
 19. The feasts of Corpus Christi, of the Assumption, 
 of the Nativity, and of the Conception, shall be abro- 
 gated. 
 
 20. The birth-day of Queen Elizabeth, which follows 
 the Vigil of the Nativity of the Virgin, shall be celebrated 
 with solemnity by all persons, and shall be marked in 
 the calendar with red and large letters ; and the Nativity 
 of our Lady with small black letters. 
 
 21. Solemn vespers are to be recited in the great church 
 of London, on the 7th of September, in praise of Eliza- 
 beth. 
 
 22. Not only in Lent, but also on Wednesdays and 
 Fridays, and on the Sabbath-day, all persons are to ab- 
 stain from flesh, not from motives of religion, but for the 
 public convenience. 
 
 23. No person is permitted to call Queen Elizabeth 
 a schismatic, an heretic, or an infidel, on pain of death. 
 
 24. Under the same penalty, all her subjects are for- 
 bidden to name any person to whom, during her life-time 
 
422 
 
 or after her death, the crown of England belongs, except 
 the natural offspring of Elizabeth. 
 
 25. Every person that has completed his sixteenth 
 year is to attend the preachings of the Protestants (so 
 their sect is called) at least on Sundays, otfp^ttlT of 
 forfeiting thirty pounds sterling every month if he be 
 noble or rich, and country-people on pain of forfeit- 
 ing three shillings every week. 
 
 26. Whoever shall be convicted of having been pre- 
 sent at mass, shall be punished by a year's imprisonment, 
 and shall not be set at liberty till he has paid to the royal 
 exchequer one hundred pounds sterling ; and double the 
 amount of that fine shall be levied upon the priest that 
 celebrates it. 
 
 27. No ecclesiastic shall be allowed to enjoy any be- 
 nefice unless he first renounces the Romish religion. 
 
 V 28. No secular person shall be promoted to the offices 
 of the kingdom, unless he shall first publicly renounce 
 tfie "Church of Rome, by taking the Oath of Supremacy 
 to the queen. 
 
 29. No student in the University shall be matricu- 
 lated, or receive a degree, without first swearing as above. 
 
 30. In the public colleges of the kingdom, no student 
 
423 
 
 shall be admitted, or take a degree, till he has renounced 
 the authority of the Pope in ecclesiastical causes, and 
 made a profession of his allegiance to Elizabeth. 
 
 31. Minors cannot inherit the property of their fathers, 
 except by taking the oath of the queen's supremacy. 
 
 32. No person shall have a vote in the public electioii^ 
 of the kingdoms, unless he shall first have renounced the 
 Church of Rome. 
 
 33. Whoever makes any scruple about taking the oath 
 of supremacy, shall be deprived of all his property, and 
 be condemned to perpetual imprisonment. 
 
 34. Whoever shall not renounce the authority of tl)^ 
 Sovereign Pontiff shall be liable to the same punish- 
 ment; and whoever shall be in possession of Agnus„I)ei'§, 
 rosaries, medals, or images of crucifixes or of saints, shall 
 be subject to the same. 
 
 35. Whoever shall hav^.m. his .house an instructor of 
 youth, who is not approved of by the Protestant bishop^ 
 and who does not frequent the preachings of the Pro- 
 testants, shall pay to the Exchequer twenty pounds within 
 a month. 
 
 36. Whoever shall be reconciled ^tp the Church of 
 Rome, or shall have knowledge of any, person so recon- 
 
424 
 
 ciling himself, and shall not make it known to the ma- 
 gistrate, shall be deprived of his property, and imprisoned 
 during the queen's pleasure, o ^ni« 
 
 37. Whoever shall persuade any one to return to the 
 communion of the Church of Rome, and to obey the 
 Pope in ecclesiastical affairs, shall be liable to the same 
 punishment. -. *. . ^ . iki ^sm 
 
 38. To any priest vj^ho has received from the Pope the 
 power of giving absolution, though he may not have ex- 
 ercised it, the same punishment. 
 
 % 39. To whoever, by words or writings, shall disparage 
 the religion of Elizabeth as established in England, and 
 shall endeavour to induce others to obey the Church of 
 Rome, the same punishment. 
 
 40. Whoever shall say or write that the Pope is head 
 of the Church of England shall be guilty of high treason. 
 
 41. No one, under the same penalty, shall appeal to 
 the Roman Pontiff, or bring bulls from Rome into Eng- 
 land. 
 
 42. Whoever shall bring Agnus Dei's, rosaries, or me- 
 dals, into England from Rome, shall be considered guilty 
 of high treason, and a traitor. 
 
 *' 43. Whoever, on being required three times, refuses to 
 
425 
 
 renounce the pontifical authority, and to acknowledge 
 the queen's sovereign power in ecclesiastical causes, 
 shall be considered guilty of the same crime. 
 
 44. Whoever shall give sacramental absolution to one 
 of the queen's subjects, or shall say that he has the power 
 of doing it, shall be guilty of high treason. 
 
 4-5. The same, in regard to every person who shall be 
 a.bsolyed by the priest, or who shall persuade any one to 
 ask absolution, or shall return to the obedience of the 
 Pope. 
 
 . .46, It, shAll be a capital oflfence for any subject to keep 
 Jesuits or priests in their houses, or to protect or succour 
 them. 
 
 To these dogmas more than one hundred and thirty 
 articles have been added, by the great number of Secta- 
 rists who have multiplied in England from the year 1640 
 to the present time ; and of these, every individual makes 
 use, to form a sect at his own discretion. 
 
 SECT OF THE PURITANS. 
 
 The sect of the Puritans is united to the Calvinists of 
 Geneva ; and in England they are called Puritans, from 
 
 SI 
 
426 
 
 considering themselves pure, and free from all sin, leav- 
 ing out, in the Lord's Prayer, Et dimitte tiobis debita nos- 
 tra, " And forgive us our trespasses." They are divided 
 into Wet Puritans, who incline a little to Lutheranisni, 
 and Rigidy who admit nothing but pure Calvinism. Never- 
 theless they unite together in being sworn enemies of the 
 Catholics, as also of the Protestants, and of the mo- 
 narchical government. From these, come the Presby- 
 terians; and from these again arose the Independents in 
 the late rebellion, the object of which was to unite all 
 the sects in a league for the suppression of the royal dig- 
 nity. 
 
 I '^isjf^ntHti rjijr-^f*H-Ei PRESBYTERIANS 
 
 are so called, because they assign the government 
 of the Church to pastors alone, to the exclusion of 
 bishops. With their tenets, the greater part of the 
 nobility, and some of the commons, were tinctured ; 
 and their example was followed by the merchants and 
 citizens of London, who were intent upon changing the 
 Aristocratical form of government, when the Indepen- 
 dents, with the greatest part of the members of the Lower 
 House of Parliament, aimed at a Democratical one, and 
 
427 
 
 the extinction of the royal family as a necessary con- 
 sequence of it ; for this is the tendency of the sect of 
 Calvin, from which the Presbyterians derive their origin. 
 They maintain the following dogmas : — 
 
 1. The Gospel is administered by priests, and also the 
 dispensation of the holy mysteries manifested in the flesh 
 of Christ. 
 
 2. The parts of this administration are three : preaching 
 the Gospel, the administration of the sacraments, and the 
 power to bind or loose. 
 
 3. The ecclesiastical power consists in the imposition 
 of hands. 
 
 4. All the ministers of the Church are not ministers of 
 the Gospel ; deacons and deaconesses being ministers of 
 the Church only. 
 
 5. The prophets of the New Testament, and the ad- 
 ministrators of the Gospel, are not the same. 
 
 6. The elders and priests ought to be distinguished 
 from others. 
 
 7. The seventy Disciples were not subject to the Apo- 
 stles. 
 
 There are, besides these, seventy other dogmas pro- 
 fessed by the Calvinists. ^ H^'^^Mi i k 
 
 3 I < 
 
428 
 SECT OF THE ATHEISTS. 
 
 Atheism has many followers in England. It may be 
 called the very abyss of blindness, and the uttermost limit 
 of the pestilent heresy of Calvin. The professors of it say 
 that there is no God ; they do not believe in a Resurrec- 
 tion to come ; they deny the immortality of the soul ; 
 and teach that every thing happens by chance ; and, as a 
 natural consequence, they follow their own perverse in- 
 clinations, without having any regard to futurity, but 
 thinking only of the present time. 
 
 ^« SECT OF THE BROWNISTS. 
 
 The sect of the Brownists derives its origin from 
 Thomas Brown, an Englishman, who, quitting the king- 
 db*ni,'endeavoiii*e8 to propagate his errors, first in France, 
 and afterwards in Holland ; but all his pains proving in- 
 effectual, he returned to England, where he had a wide 
 field for his exertions, and there established the ecclesias- 
 tical form of government of the Brownists. These select, 
 instead of churches, certain secret meeting-houses, remote 
 from any noise ; and admit none but those, who, being 
 iiHiOin mii 
 
429 
 
 willing to bind themselves by a solemn oath, promise to 
 live according to the injunctions of the Gospel, and thus 
 they admit them as members of the Church. Seven of 
 their number compose a church ; no more assemble in 
 one church at a time than can conveniently hear what is 
 said by the minister in a low voice, whose place is often 
 filled by women ; nor do they permit persons of any other 
 sect to enter them^^ They say, that their churches »xe 
 exempt from all human jurisdiction, and own themselves 
 subject to Christ alone ; and on this account, among 
 other false articles which they hold out, is this : ^in/nu' 
 
 1. That the sceptre and kingdom of Christ is to be 
 found in the churches of the Brownists, who resemble 
 the New Jerusalem, and derive their origin from heaven. 
 
 To this they add — 
 
 2. That the churches of England, whether they be 
 Protestant or Reformed, are the seats of error, of idolatry, 
 and of pestilence, with which true Christians ought to 
 have no communication, and their government is tyran- 
 nous and idolatrous. 
 
 3. That all the temples erected in the time of the 
 papacy ought to be demolished; and bells, as being papal 
 inventions, ought to be removed. 
 
 4. It is a profane thing to name the months February 
 
430 
 
 and January, and the days Sunday, Monday, and Wed- 
 nesday. It is not lawful to compute years from the 
 death of Christ, but rather in this manner: — the sixth 
 year (for instance) of the ultimate repentance of the saints, 
 that is, the Brownists. 
 
 5. That the liberty of prophesying is to be denied to 
 none ; and as soon as the sermon is finished, three or four 
 of the church ought to prophesy. 
 
 6. All adulterers, sorcerers, violators of the Sabbath, 
 and idolaters, among whom are to be reckoned Pro- 
 testants, Papists, and Puritans, ought to be put to death 
 by the magistrate; but not robbers, although robbery is 
 an unjust and unlawful thing ; with many other dogmas. 
 
 SECT OF THE ADAMITES. 
 
 The sect of the Adamites was founded by a certain 
 Pastor Adam, in Germany, whence it passed into Hol- 
 land, in the year 1535, and then penetrated, in the reign 
 of Queen Elizabeth, into England, where there are still 
 many persons who profess it. These, in imitation of our 
 First Parents, assemble at their meetings in a state of 
 nakedness. They admit no person into their fraternity 
 who has not first stripped himself naked in the presence 
 
431 
 
 of all the rest, and given proof of his continency. At the 
 celebration of weddings, the new married people appear 
 with leaves, standing close to the tree, which is placed in 
 the middle of their synagogue. 
 
 SECT OF THE FAMILISTS. 
 
 The Family of Love, or the Familists, is a sect that has 
 a great affinity with that of the Adamites. It began 
 among the English heretics in Ireland in the time of 
 King Charles I., and passed from that kingdom into 
 England, when the Protector Cromwell ruled there. The 
 command of Scripture, " Crescite et multiplicamini" 
 (increase and multiply) which is enforced by the preachers 
 in their meeting, they practise to an abominable extent, 
 without regard either to affinity or consanguinity. 
 
 SECT OF THE ANABAPTISTS. 
 'J he Anabaptists, called by the Germans Bidert Duf- 
 
 fers, are so denominated from the baptism which they 
 cause to be repeated upon children who had been baptized 
 before they arrived at years of discretion. This sect 
 issued from the school of Luther, under the conduct of 
 
432 
 
 Balthazar Hubiger; and was afterwards followed by 
 Thomas Muncer, a disciple of Carolstadius, who began 
 to disseminate it through Germany, while Luther was 
 propagating his own doctrines in Saxony. Muncer took 
 the principles of this sect from the publications of Luther, 
 on Christian Liberty and on the Captivity of Babylon, 
 and was assisted by Nicholas Stork, who, to deceive the 
 common people, pretended to have received a command- 
 m€jnt from heaven, through the medium of the Archangel 
 Gabriel, to reform the Church. After his death, which 
 took place at Munster, the head-quarters of this sect, the 
 same revelation was confirmed by Muncer, that he was to 
 establish a new religion, which should not confine man- 
 kind under so many restrictions as that of Rome, nor be 
 so lax as that of Luther; but George, Duke of Saxony, 
 being irritated at him, caused him to be arrested and put 
 to death. The sect he had formed, however, was not extin- 
 guished by his death. By the exertions of his followers, 
 it passed into many parts of Hungary ; and being intro- 
 duced into England in the time of Queen Elizabeth, 
 extended under James VL (I.) and Charles I., and was at 
 its height in the time of Cromwell, having infected the 
 people of London as deeply as any other sect, with the 
 following articles. 
 
«53 
 
 ARTICXES"oF^^E ^KABAPTISTS. 
 
 ' ^1.' It is better that infants should die without baptism 
 than that they should be baptised before they attain to 
 years of discretion. 
 
 *'"2r/' Baptism is of no service, except to those who believe 
 in it, and ask for it. 
 
 3. Those who were baptized in their infancy, must of 
 netess?tj^ be Te-Baptized, in ordier to oBtaitfisalvation, when 
 they shall have arrived at years of discretion. 
 
 4. Polygamy is allowed among Christians. 
 
 5. The real body of Christ is not contained in the 
 Eucharist. 
 
 6. The Church of the Anabaptists is alone Catholic 
 and Apostolic. 
 
 7. There is no purgatory in the next life. 
 
 8. He is a fool who prays for the dead. 
 
 9. No one ought to be compelled to believe, nor ought 
 the secular arm to be employed against, heretics and 
 infidels. ^^^-^ 
 
 10. Christians cannot lawfully be punished with the 
 loss of life for any offence whatever. 
 
 1 1. The Sacraments under the new law are only two: 
 
 3 K 
 
434 
 
 the Lord's Slipper, and Baptism, according to the rite of 
 the Anabaptists. 
 
 1 2. Whoever is an Anabaptist is so far directed by the 
 Holy Ghost, that he cannot err in his behef. 
 
 13. It is better to preach the Word of God in the 
 fields, in the woods, in houses, and on the tops of houses, 
 than in consecrated churches. 
 
 - 14. "Whoever dresses in silk is a son of the Devil. 
 
 15. Every Christian whatsoever is bound to earn the 
 necessaries of life by the labour of his hands. 
 
 16. Whoever is a voluntary beggar is worse than 
 Judas who betrayed Christ. 
 
 17. Among Christians, one man ought not to be a 
 vassal, and another a lord. 
 
 18. Feast-days ought not to be observed among Chris- 
 tians. — Together with sundry other articles. 
 
 SECT of" THE LIBERTINES. 
 
 The sect of the Libertines, which sprung from the Cal- 
 vinism of the Puritans, boasts for its legislator one Quin- 
 tin, a tailor in Picardy, and for its restorer in England, 
 under the shelter of the Presbyterians and Independents, 
 
435 
 
 one Burton. He, taking away frte-will, taught that all 
 the good and ill which is done by men, is not done by 
 themy but by the Holy Spirit which is in them; and, 
 consequently, that the treachery of Judas and the Con- 
 version of St. Paul were brought about by God, who has 
 with equal efficacy and certainty decreed the salvation of 
 the predestined and the damnation of the reprobate. Be- 
 sides these, he published the following propositions, as the 
 rule of his perverse belief : — 
 
 DOGMAS OF THE LIBERTINES. 
 
 1. The Spirit of God, which dwells in us, operates all 
 the evil that we do. 
 
 2. Sin is only an opinioni4M||ii|iif> 
 
 3. In punishing sin, God punishes himself. 
 
 4. He alone is re-born, who has no remorse of con- 
 science. 
 
 5. He alone is good, who confesses that he never com- 
 mitted any evil. 
 
 6. Man may be perfect and innocent in this life. 
 
 7. The knowledge of the Resurrection of Christ is only 
 a suspicion. 
 
 S K 2 
 
436 
 
 8. They are perfect, who, despising Scripture, trust to 
 their own inspiration. 
 
 9. John the Evangelist was a foohsh youth ; Matthew, 
 a cheating banker; Paul, a broken vessel; Peter, a denier 
 of Christ. 
 
 10. No more credit ought to be given to the canoni- 
 cal books, than is given to the books of the profane his- 
 torians. 
 
 SECT OF THE INDEPENDENTS. 
 
 The sect of the Independents, which proceeds from that 
 of the Puritans, was revived in England by John Robin- 
 son, a preacher of the latter persuasion at Leyden, in the 
 year 1634; but as Puritanism set itself up against the 
 Anglican Protestant Church, it was expelled from the 
 kingdom by a royal edict, through the exertions of Laud, 
 Archbishop of Canterbury; part of its members retired 
 into the provinces of Holland and Guelderland, and part, 
 passing over into North America, which is called New 
 England, took up their abode, and built churches there, 
 and, at the suggestion of Robert Cotton, a designing 
 man, and Ann Hutchinson, a woman of great saga- 
 
437 
 
 city and by profession a Calvinist (who preached in 
 pubHc, and disposed of all matters of religion through- 
 out the country like an high priest) decided for Inde- 
 pendentism. Being then introduced into England afresh, 
 the sect was propagated under Thomas Fairfax and Oliver 
 Cromwell, the latter General of the Armies, and the 
 former his Lieutenant-General, offices conferred upon 
 them by the Parliament, and which had been taken from 
 the Earls of Essex and Manchester, and Waller, assign- 
 ing as motives for this deprivation, that they were of the 
 Presbyterian faction, to which the newly-chosen generals 
 were adverse, as being of the sect of Independents. 
 
 These are a set of people who, if they did not at least 
 apparently acknowledge the worship of one God, and if 
 they were not baptised, might be ranked among Gentiles 
 and Atheists. They do not attach themselves to any sect ; 
 but their conscience and faith are regulated at their own 
 discretion, they being fond of liberty, which admits no 
 dependence upon any synod, or political arrangement. 
 They will have no churches, altars, or sacred rites ; pre- 
 tending, that whatever regards doctrine and ecclesiastical 
 discipline, is best regulated by their private meetings, at 
 which every member of the sect makes a speech, accord- 
 ing to his caprice, thinking that God is pleased with 
 
438 
 
 prayers only, and that every heart receives its portion of 
 the Holy Spirit. 
 
 Many are the articles professed by the Independents 
 of London, some of which are in conformity to those 
 of the Brownists and the Independents of New Eng- 
 land, and some different. 
 
 They agree with the former in many of their articles, 
 and more particularly in those which follow. 
 
 ARTICLES OF THE LONDON INDEPENDENTS, AND THOSE OF 
 
 AMERICA. 
 
 1. That the revelations made to the above-mentioned 
 Cotton, and to the woman Hutchinson, are of the 
 same authority as the Scriptures. 
 
 2. No Christian ought to be forced to profess any par- 
 ticular faith. 
 
 3. The soul dies with the body. 
 
 4. All the saints on earth have two bodies. 
 
 5. The body of Christ is not in heaven. 
 
 6. Christ had no other body than the Church. 
 
 7. Man is justified, and united to Christ, without faith. 
 
 8. Man is not actually a part of Christ, until he has 
 confidence that he is so. 
 
439 
 
 9. This confidence is proved by the testimony of the 
 Holy Spirit. 
 
 10. Sanctification is not a sure sign of a state of 
 grace. 
 
 11. The hypocrite may have the same grace as Adam 
 had in his state of innocence. 
 
 12. Sin ought not to disturb the sons of God, for who- 
 ever is disturbed by the sins which he has committed, 
 cannot be a son of God. 
 
 13. A man may have all possible grace, and yet be 
 without Christ. 
 
 14. The activity of the Christian consists in this, that 
 he is constantly sinning. 
 
 Besides these, there are twenty other articles. 
 
 The articles of the London Independents differ from 
 those of the Independents on the other side the Atlantic, 
 in asserting, 
 
 1. That any congregation whatever, provided it con- 
 sist of seven persons, possesses entire and absolute eccle- 
 siastical authority, without being dependent upon any 
 one under heaven. 
 
 2. All the power exerted by synods, whether national 
 or general, is anti-christian and tyrannical. 
 
440 
 
 ifi S» Whoever subjects himself to the decision of any 
 synod, deprives himself of that Christian liberty which 
 Christ has purchased for us. sdilo mmBmiia mfV XI 
 
 4. Faith is of no avail towards salvation. osx«i tsd 
 
 5. The power of the keys belongs equally to men and 
 women^iihimmTjuixai h^hivAoi ad ot eiB id^^a IIK ^l 
 
 6. Women may repudiate their husbands, if they do 
 not consent to follow the rules of the new Independent 
 Church. a s^umn nsui anuiii b9bb« die saadtoT 
 
 7. It is lawful for women to preach, and to cavil in 
 churches, but not to sing, ^jpj"^ 'DH^ 
 
 8. From the day that any one enlists himself among 
 the members of the Independent Church, till his death, 
 he is holy, and worthy to. receive the Lord's Supper. 
 
 9. The followers of Independentism, inasmuch as they 
 are perfect and always holy, ought not to listen to any 
 
 f^jl^ijPommuniCatlts ought to partake of the Lord's 
 Supper with their heads covered, and sitting; the minister 
 is to give it uncovered, and to distribute it to those sitting, 
 through the medium of the deacon or deaconess. 
 
 11. The Independent Churches have authority to ex- 
 communii;9ieJf^,ftgg„^^jr^^^^ F 
 
 ^5^2, No one ought to be admitted either to ecclesiasr 
 
441 
 
 tical or civil government, who is not a true and cordial 
 Independent. 
 
 1 3. The ministers of the Independent Churches are to 
 be members of the Supreme Court, and of Parhament, 
 with the power of voting. 
 
 14. All sects are to be tolerated indiscriminately, pro- 
 vided they are not Papists or Presbyterians. 
 
 15. God is the author of all the ill that is done. 
 To these are added more than twenty other dogmas. 
 
 SECT OF THE ARIANS. 
 
 The sect of the Arians, so called from Arius, a priest 
 of Alexandria, who lived in the time of the Emperor 
 Constantine the Great and of Pope St. Sylvester. He 
 disseminated various errors throughout Christendom, 
 which were several times confuted by councils and by 
 the doctors of the Church. Some of them are followed 
 in England at this, day, though not by great numbers. 
 
 SECT OF THE ANTISCRIPTURISTS. 
 
 The Antiscripturists, or Antiscriptorians, are a sort of 
 sectarians proceeding from the Anabaptists, who, to the 
 
 31. 
 
442 
 
 Falliacy of Anabaptism, liave added other errors, such as 
 rejecting the New Testament, despising all books and 
 fell sermons, being satisfied with their own spirit alone. 
 
 -It?? 
 
 "'*' SECT OF THE MILLENARIANS. 
 
 The sect of the Chiliasts, that is Millenarians, derives 
 its origin from the ancient Corinthians, or Merentians, who 
 followed the doctrine of the Sorcerer Menander, and are 
 called Millenarians from the detestable heresy which they 
 maintain ; and, among many others, that when a thousand 
 years from the birth of Christ are completed, he will 
 again come into the world, and reign according to the 
 carnal gratifications of the body and of the senses. ^ 
 
 SECT OF THE ANTINOMIANS. 
 
 I The Antinomians, otherwise called Antinomicans, are 
 a sect cleaving closely to Anabaptism. At the head of 
 it was Erasmus Faverius, a disciple of Luther, who ended 
 his life at Magdeburg ; but his heresy did not expire with 
 him. That heresy entirely rejected the Old Testament, 
 admitting only the New ; for it was afterwards renewed 
 in London by John Cotton, a Puritan, who, wishing to 
 
 $ ^iS Z 
 
443 
 
 surpass the other sects in the multitude of his follo\^ 
 ers, bethought himself of a new method of alluring the 
 inconstant and rebellious spirits of London. He pub- 
 lished a book in English, " De Gratuita Justificatione Ho- 
 minis per lesum Christum," (on the Gratuitous Justifica- 
 tion of Man by Jesus Christ) full of heresies. The first is, 
 that man, being once justified by baptism, cannot by any 
 means be condemned, or commit sin. The second, that 
 the Old Testament, like a dead law, is completed and 
 abolished, and therefore is no longer of any utility or 
 authority. 
 
 This doctrine having been published, many persons 
 embraced it; so that the churches and temples of London 
 could not contain the numbers of silly and wicked people 
 who went to hear the preachers, while they inculcated 
 that no one was bound to the observance of the precepts 
 of God, and that to fly from, or to lament sin, was great 
 
 folly. 4mMflmim-'^^ 
 
 SECT OF THE ARMINIANS. 
 
 The sect of the Arminians began at Leyden, in the 
 year 1605, having been founded there by James Armir 
 nius, public Professor of Theology in that University. 
 
 31. s 
 
444 
 
 He reduced his heretical opinions to five articles, and 
 stirred up great tumults in Holland, whence the dogmas 
 above alluded to were transmitted, through the medium 
 of his followers, to London.^m ":^i 
 
 «"4 That of the Snthusiasts, as it is derived from the 
 Anabaptists, so it adheres to and makes profession of their 
 errors. -^ '^'^ 
 
 SECT OF THE SEEKERS, OR EXPECTERS. 
 
 The sect of the Seekers, or Expecters, was promoted 
 in London by Roger Williams, a Calvinist, who, to make 
 himself the^^uad^Jl^pf .81 sect, said that the true Church of 
 Christ was everywhere unknown, except only to St. John 
 the Apostle, who was still alive, and would shortly ap- 
 pear to restore the true Church. He had many followers, 
 who sought for the true Church in the brothels, the pub- 
 lic squares, and deserted places of the city. Some, with 
 equally ridiculous folly, expected the arrival of St. John 
 from Transylvania, whither they had forwarded despatches 
 to him; and hence was introduced among them the 
 custom, whenever they saw a stranger, of asking him 
 whether he was St. John the Apostle. The " Expecters" 
 
445 
 
 are distinguished from the " Seekers ;" inasmuch as the 
 latter say that the Church is in every place whatever 3 
 whereas the former teach that the Church is no where*; 
 consequently, they expect the miraculous restoration of 
 the Church at some future time by the Apostles: and thus, 
 as no Apostle is to be found on earth, the Expecters say 
 that there is no visible Church, no true Scripture, no true 
 Minister, and no Sacrament. 
 
 SECT OF THE SABBATARIANS. 
 
 Robert Dogs, a coal-man in London, was the first 
 founder of the sect of the Sabbatarians. He, at the in- 
 stigation of a Jew, threw all London into confusion. He 
 said that all those who observed Sunday, and profaned 
 the Sabbath which was formerly observed by the com- 
 mandment of God under the Old Testament, with ser- ? 
 vile labours, were Antichristians ; and he caused great 
 disturbance among the Calvinistic sects throughout Eng- 
 land. The Scripture, according to him, was clear and 
 distinct; and the Calvinists, who do not believe in the tra- 
 ditions of the Church, had no means of pointing out to the 
 people the vanity of these clamours.. Many, after various 
 disputes, thought proper to change the old style, and to 
 
446 
 
 Kgree with the Jews in future in sanctifying the Sabbath, 
 instead of Sunday, and it was done accordingly. 
 
 The Antisabbatarians deny the obligation of sanc- 
 tifying any one day in the week. 
 
 SECT OF THE FANATICS. 
 
 The Fanatics are men who are not united among 
 themselves, neither do they live under any discipline; but, 
 professing an extraordinary degree of zeal, they pretei\d 
 to be what Moses and Aaron were of old, endeavouring 
 to make themselves distinguished from other men, and to 
 singularize themselves by the peculiarity of their opinions. 
 
 SECT OF THE FOTINIANS. 
 
 The heresy of the Fotinians has been renewed in 
 England according to the ancient doctrines of Fotinus, a 
 bishop, and disciple of Paul of Samosatano, who preached 
 that Christ is not God, but a mere man, and was con- 
 ceived in the same way as other men, ex coitu viri 
 et fcemince, and that he by no means existed before 
 Mary. 
 
447 
 
 The sect of the Antitrinitarians denies the Holy 
 Trinity. 
 
 SECT OF THE DEISTS. 
 
 The sect of the Deists was founded by William Por- 
 telli, a Frenchman, who was well skilled in Greek, Latin, 
 and Hebrew literature. He belonged to the Society of 
 the Jesuits at Rome, and, quitting that community, asso- 
 ciated himself with the heretics of Germany; but, re- 
 turning to his senses, became a zealous Catholic, and 
 died piously abjuring the opinion which he had formerly 
 maintained — That God the Father had governed the world 
 from the time of Adam till the birth of Jesus Christ, and 
 then resigned the government to the Son, who now 
 governs, and will continue to govern it till the coming of 
 the Holy Ghost, who from that time will have the charge 
 of governing and directing the people of God. 
 
 SECT OF THE TREMBLERS, OR QUAKERS. 
 
 The sect of the Tremblers, or Quakers, was begun by 
 James Naylor; and, for the purpose of propagating it be- 
 yond England, one of the members was sent by the society 
 
 7 
 
 y.^ 
 
us 
 
 into Hungary and Transylvania, to bring over those 
 nations to their behef. There were thirteen of them in 
 the first instance ; at the head of whom was Naylor, a 
 wicked man, called by his disciples Jesus Christ, whom 
 he endeavoured to imitate in his voice, actions, and ap- 
 pearance; and as he was travelling from London towards 
 Bristol on horseback, his followers spread their cloaks 
 and strewed branches on the ground, applauding and 
 shouting in the words of benediction which the multitudes 
 of old made use of to Christ, " Hosanna! benedictus qui 
 venit in nomine Domini!" (Hosanna I blessed is he that 
 cometh in the name of the Lord !) He arrogated to him- 
 self the power of raising the dead, of healing the sick, 
 and, in imitation of Christ, of fasting forty days. This 
 sect, by its pretended sanctity, obtained the ascendancy 
 over all the others, its hypocrisy being extreme. Some of 
 the individuals of it however are more humble, apparently 
 more spiritual, and more full of Christ. Towards the 
 poor and afflicted, they are compassionate and liberal. 
 In all their external conversation, they are so modest and 
 affable, that any simple person would take them for saints. 
 They do not make any sign of obeisance to any one, 
 even to those in authority; so that, sooner than take off 
 their hats in the king's presence, they would lose their 
 
449 
 
 heads. To their enemies and persecutors they return 
 good for evil, offering the other cheek. In the medita- 
 tions which they make in the pubUc places of the city, 
 they remain as it were in an exstacy, and tremble through 
 their whole body, whence they are called Tremblers. — 
 While they are in this state, they utter horrible cries, shed 
 tears, and heave profound sighs from the bottom of their 
 breasts; and idien they recover themselves, they talk of 
 the suprethe iii'ajv!fety,"bf the glory, o^ the gr<eatries§ 6f the 
 light, and of the divine splendor which they enjoy in that 
 pretended elevation of the mind. Their numbers increased 
 in a short time to such an extent, that they rendered 
 themselves formidable to all England, being estimated, in 
 the year when Charles II. was restored, at upwards of sixty 
 thousand. Many of them have been sent out as apostles 
 throughout almost the whole world ; and two of them 
 came to Rome in the yeat'TGoS, to convert the Pope, as 
 they foolishly talked. They were there arrested, and inter- 
 rogated as to their false doctrines; which are as follow: — 
 
 1. The Quakers call themselves Catholics ; 'they are 
 perfect in this life, and no stain of sin is found in them. 
 
 2. Every person ought to be contented with that doc- 
 trine which he acquires by the inspiration of the internal 
 spirit. 
 
 SM 
 
4^5 
 
 A..,.. 
 
 3. Baptism with wafer, or i^xternal ablution, is of no 
 use, and, therefore, ought to be rejected as superfluous. 
 
 4. Among the Quakers, there is no one that has not the 
 Spirit of God within him. 
 
 5. The reasonable soul is part of the Divinity, and 
 '^kists before the body. 
 
 6. All men have within them a certain light, by which 
 they may be saved without any other assistance from God. 
 ^^^'7. We are justified by the iiattiral justice jiefe'i^liar to 
 ourselves, which is within us. 
 
 8. After this mortal life, no other state of being is to be 
 
 9. Those passages of Scripture which refer to heaven, 
 hell, and the resurrection of the dead, are fables. - * 
 
 10. It is not in the power of a perfect man, that is, a 
 Quaker, to sin. 
 
 11. The sacred things of the other sects are heathenish." 
 
 12. No Christian possesses any private property; for 
 among real Christians all things ought to be in common. 
 
 13. Among real Christians one ought not to rule over 
 another, and no one ought to be called Master, or Sir, 
 nor ought any reverence to be made to men in passing 
 
 14. The liberty of preaching, and of prophesying, is 
 
451 
 
 to be refused to none who is truly called, not even to 
 women. — There are also two and-thirty additional article^. 
 
 SECT OF THE MONARCHISTS, OR FIFTH MONARCHY. 
 
 w l^he Fifth Monarchy is a sect which sprung up under 
 Cromwell, composed of men of no renown, followers of 
 other sects. They expect the visible and Fifth Monarchy 
 of Christ on earth'; and, foretelling his personal presence 
 to be near at hand, they endeavour to do away the mir 
 nistry of priests, as being Catholi^J the payment of tythes, 
 as belonging to Judaism ; the Norman laws of England ; 
 the universities and schools, as seminaries of idle curio- 
 sity; the nobility and the distinctions of birth, as repugr 
 nant to natural reason and to Christianity; and they are 
 madly desirous to overthrow at the same time all earthly 
 principalities, and to prepare the way for the coming of 
 Christ. 
 
 SECT OF THE SOCINIANS. 
 
 The Socinian sect is so call^^d ^from the name of its 
 rounder, Faustus Socinus of Sienna, who from Italy, where 
 
 3 M I 
 
452 
 
 he lived many years leading the life of a courtier, went 
 into Holland, and there renewed the ancient heresies of 
 Fotinus, of Arius, of the Somosateno, and others, denying 
 the Trinity, and rejecting, as contrary to reason, that 
 Christ was made man, with other heretical opinions ; 
 among which, his followers refuse to believe any thing but 
 what can be proved by natural reason. And though these 
 opinions were at first embraced by many persons in that 
 province, yet, when it was afterwards ascertained how 
 abominable they were, they were detested by the other 
 false sectarians, and the exercise of Socinianism was 
 prohibited by the civil government under severe penalties, 
 its followers being rendered incapable of filling public 
 offices ; on which account, many withdrew themselves, 
 and went into Poland and Denmark ; but they failed 
 to establish their colonies there, having been expelled 
 from those countries also, and compelled to wander 
 about as exiles in different places, and particularly in 
 London. 
 
 SECT OF THE LATITUDINARIANS. ;^^.^ 
 These also are so denominated from the broad and easy 
 
453 
 
 method by which they propose to obtain salvation ; 
 teaching, that whoever beheves Christ to have been in- 
 carnate, and hves innocently and without blame in his 
 own religion, is capable of eternal salvation. 
 
 SECT OF THE ORIGENISTS. 
 
 The Origenists maintain the pre-existence of souls; 
 that is, that the souls of all men were created at the 
 same time with that of Adam ; reviving many other of 
 the errors of Origen, commented upon by Saint Augustin, 
 Epiphanius, and Isidore in the book Periachon. 
 
 SECT OF THE RANTERS. 
 
 The Ranters are so called from Alexander Ranta, a 
 tailor, who, with a train of inn-keepers, bakers, fisher- 
 men, tailors, and other artizans of the very lowest de- 
 scription, founded this impious sect, which, casting 
 away all respect for God, opened to the English, who 
 are inconstant in their belief, a shorter road to perdi- 
 tion, differing from that of all the other sects, by means 
 of its execrable dogmas. Besides the common belief 
 of Calvinism, it has the following, peculiar to itself: — 
 
454 
 
 . :. «(j|f|l*i^: DOGMAS OF THE RANTERS. 
 
 id.]* To satisfy the carnal desires, when urged by the 
 stimulus of the flesh, is a work more agreeable to God, 
 than to observe his precepts. 
 
 2. The Christian ought not to resist the inspiration of 
 the internal spirit. 
 
 3. All natural actions are from God, and therefore 
 good. 
 
 4. The woman who refuses the public use of her body 
 to whoever, at the instigation of the spirit, demands it, 
 ought to be excluded from the number of believers. 
 
 5. The religion of the Papists is worse than that of the 
 Mahometans, Jews, Gentiles, and even than the perfidy 
 of the Reformed Religion. 
 
 
 :^ECT OF THE LEVELLERS. 
 
 The sect of the Levellers is rather a political than a 
 religious faction, begun by John Leyburn, a man of little 
 note, but of great perseverance, and author of many dis- 
 turbances in the kingdom. For doing away all political 
 government, he wished that some of the laws of nature, 
 Mhich he called fundamental, and which give to every 
 
W5 
 
 man equal power in the administration of the Repubhc, 
 should be observed ; and that no one, either by rank or 
 wealth, should be superior to another ; so that honors and 
 riches should be divided among all in equal proportions, 
 and that every man should be at liberty to believe whaib- 
 ever he pleased, provided he approved what is professed 
 by the Levellers. 
 
 SECT OF THE QUINTINISTS. 
 
 In the year 1525, the sect of the Quintinists took its 
 rise from Quintin, of Picardy, a man well known for his 
 wickedness, who, among other things, set himself up as 
 the propagator of the following errors: — 
 
 That it is of no consequence to God how a man 
 Jives, or serves him. 
 
 That God takes peculiar pleasure in a variety of reli- 
 gions, as man does in a diversity of food. 
 
 SECT OF THE MEMNONISTS. 
 
 The sect of the Memnonists assigns the foundation 
 of its heresy to Memnon, a follower of Luther, who attri- 
 
456 
 
 buted to Christ an setberial body, and denying that he 
 received any thing from the substance of the Virgin. 
 
 With the above-mentioned sects, and with others which 
 the people form at pleasure out of the different articles of 
 religion, which have been disseminated through London, 
 this kingdom is still infected. 
 
 BELIEF OF THE ROYAL FAMILY. 
 
 There is no dotibt that the king externally appears to 
 be a Protestant, observing with the most exact attention 
 the rites of the Anglican Church; but it is also true, 
 that, from his method of proceeding, there is reason for 
 thinking that he does not entirely acquiesce in that mode 
 of belief, and that he may, perhaps, in his own mind, 
 cherish other inclinations. 
 
 The Duke of York is also, to all appearances, zealous 
 in the practice of the Anglican religion. 
 
 The Duchess his wife is deeply imbibed with the dog- 
 mas of the religion of the king; and it is frequently her 
 amusement and delight to retire into her private oratory, 
 and hold secret conferences with her spiritual directors. 
 
and to occupy herself with reading books that treat of the 
 rehgion of the state, and its Liturgy. 
 
 Prince Robert adheres to Calvinism it its rigidest and 
 purest form, as it is professed at Heidelberg by the family 
 of the Counts Palatine of the Rhine. .\f 
 
 BELIEF OF THE NOBILITY AND THE PEOPLE. 
 
 The principal nobility of the kingdom, except those 
 few who openly or in their hearts are Catholics, are for 
 the most part of the religion of the king, though there are 
 many among them who have no objection to Presbyte-^ 
 rianism. The rest of the nobility adhere, some to Pro- 
 testantism, and some to Presbyterianism ; and a very 
 small part of them secretly continue tobe Catholics, but 
 refrain from declaring themselves such externally, that 
 they may not run the risk of losing their honours and 
 their property. The common people enjoy a liberty 
 which is incredible, every man, following that religion 
 and those rites which most suit his fancy, or which 
 his own passions suggest to him ; and as they meet with 
 no opposition, they live in the greatest confusion of he- 
 resies, every possible sect finding supporters among them* 
 
 3 N 
 
458 
 STATE OF THE CATHOLIC RELIGION IN LONDON. 
 
 The Catholic Rehgion still exists in England, though 
 without the power of shewing itself openly. The semi- 
 public exercise of it is tolerated in the Queen's Chapel 
 at St. James's, and in that of the Queen Mother at Somer- 
 set House, and in the oratories of the Catholic Princes. 
 To these places there is free access, except when, at the 
 instigation of Parliament, the decrees of Queen Elizabeth 
 against Catholics are renewed. On those occasions, peo- 
 ple go to them with greater caution, that they may not 
 render themselves liable to the severity of the above laws ; 
 and secretly avail themselves in their own houses of the 
 services of missionary priests, who are maintained by the 
 Catholic families to administer to their spiritual wants. 
 The king moreover, whose business it is to enforce these 
 harsh measures, suspends the execution of it, either from 
 political reasons, or to gratify the good disposition of the 
 Catholic queen his wife, from whose exemplary conduct, 
 those Catholics who live in England, either openly or se- 
 cretly, derive no small advantage in evading the rigor of 
 the punishments attached to all who do not conform to 
 the heresy of the kingdom. 
 
459 
 
 A considerable number of priests of either order, both 
 secular and regular, watch over the spiritual concerns of 
 the Catholics. They are divided into several companies, 
 and are very attentive to the fulfilment of their duties; 
 The first are English or Irishmen, eminent for their zeal 
 and learning, who have been educated and instructed ill 
 the seminaries founded for the youths of those nations 
 in Rome, in Spain, and in Flanders, where they attend 
 equally to the study of religion and literature. These 
 receive instruction for the proper management of their re- 
 spective charges from an ecclesiastic, whom they call the 
 Head of the Clergy, who is established in England, al- 
 most with the authority of an Ordinary. He communi- 
 cates to other co-adjutors, his deputies, in various parts of 
 the kingdom, a power resembling his own, or more limited,^ 
 as it may happen ; all of them however are, in the first 
 instance, subordinate to the Nuncio in France, and, at 
 present, to the Internuncio in Flanders, to whom, as being 
 nearer to these parts, the superintendence of the missions 
 of England and Ireland has been intrusted ; and this 
 he retains in conjunction with that which he before had 
 over that of the United Provinces. The regulars are sub- 
 ject to the government of their own prelates, who appoint 
 
 \* 
 
460 
 
 them to such particular missions as belong to their respec- 
 tive orders. 
 
 There are many religious of the orders of St. Benedict, 
 of St. Augustin, of St. Dominic, of St. Francis, and of 
 the Society of Jesus, who perform their spiritual duties 
 towards the Catholics with much fervor, encouraging 
 them to preserve in their manners the purity of the 
 ancient faith, which, as far as the lower orders are con- 
 cerned, is at present kept up principally by those who 
 live in the country, and have retired thither to avoid the 
 persecutions which heresy is perpetually stirring up in 
 the city, where almost the whole of the populace is 
 infected by its contagion. Various disputes arise among 
 the missionaries ; the seculars thinking that the regulars 
 extend their privileges further than they ought ; and these, 
 on the other hand, complaining that the seculars impede 
 them in the exercise of their missions. The greatest com- 
 plaints are against certain Jesuits, because, under the 
 pretence of their peculiar privileges, they are desirous to 
 administer the missions, without recognizing any other 
 superiority in this kingdom than that which is set over 
 them by their own society. This is the cause of the dis- 
 sensions which, in no small degree, disturb this pious 
 
461 
 
 ministry, both in England and Holland : on which ac- 
 count, appeals are constantly coming from both parties, 
 not only to the apostolic minister in Flanders, but to the 
 congregation at Rome, being carried thither by the 
 queen's grand almoner, and the heads of the English 
 clergy, of both descriptions, and by the Bishop of Char- 
 tres. Apostolic Vicar of the United Provinces. 
 
 To avoid the further exasperation of these discordant 
 spirits, to the great detriment of the holy faith, gentle and 
 moderate measures are adopted, such as serious admo- 
 nitions and exhortations to unanimity ; and to settle the 
 differences at once, it has been wished at Rome to con- 
 secrate, as titular bishop in England, some ecclesiastic 
 of integrity and talent, a native of the kingdom, who may 
 watch over the missions in the same manner as is done in 
 Holland. For this purpose they cast their eye upon Philip 
 Howard, Grand Almoner to the Queen, having ascertained 
 that the king was no way averse from such a step ; but 
 the affairs of the kingdom being in a condition not very 
 favorable to the Catholics, owing to the inveteracy of the 
 Parliament, it was thought unseasonable, and was judged 
 more prudent, the same having been hinted by the king, 
 to put off the execution of such a proceeding to some 
 other more favorable opportunity. In the mean time, 
 
462 
 
 the bishops of Ireland perform tlie episcopal functions 
 for the benefit of the Catholics, and come over oc- 
 casionally to exercise their charge in the best manner i^i 
 their power. 
 
 On the morning of the 11th, his highness, having 
 
 heard mass, and given audience to Sir Finch, his 
 
 Majesty's Solicitor General, who came in his gown, and 
 having received many visitors who called to wish him a 
 good journey, set out from London in his carriage, es- 
 corted by my Lord Philip Howard and Henry Nevill, 
 and attended by the whole of his train. After a short ride, 
 he arrived at Islington, which is a collection of houses 
 in the environs of London, and there dismounting, went 
 to see a man walk upon the water, which is reckoned a 
 wonderful thing by the English, owing to their not having 
 investigated the manner by which he supports, and puts 
 himself in motion. 
 
 To the four sides of a quadrilateral frame, joined to- 
 gether with iron bars, which unite in the centre, and one 
 of which rises to a reasonable height, are fixed certain 
 round chests (barrels) resembling bladders, filled with 
 wind, closed up, and without any vent. To the before- 
 
 i^ 
 
463 
 
 mentioned iron in the centre, the man is tied round the 
 waist, covering, with a cloak which he has on, the fasten- 
 ing, and the iron to which he is attached, and by moving 
 his feet, from the soles of which hang two pieces of lea- 
 ther resembling wings fastened to his shoes, he sets the 
 machine in motion, which by means of these chests is 
 guided along the surface of the water, and supports him 
 in such a manner, that he walks in the greatest safety, 
 steering himself by the motion of his feet along the lake 
 (contiguous to the house) which was neither very spacious 
 nor very deep, and, consequently, its waters not liable to 
 be much agitated by the wind. Had this been the case, 
 it might not, perhaps, have been so easy to put in prac- 
 tice his invention of sustaining himself upon it, though 
 he vainly asserted, that with the same machine he would 
 have made no difficulty, during a dead calm, to attempt 
 crossing the Channel, which is seven leagues broad between 
 Dover and Calais. 
 
 Resuming his journey from Islington, his highness ar- 
 rived about mid-day at Thornton, a villa of my Lord 
 William Petre, where, by a previous invitation, the party 
 were to stop to dine. While dinner was preparing, his 
 highness was escorted by the earl, the master of the house 
 to see the villa, which was as well provided, as other 
 
464 
 
 noblemen's country houses in England, with the neces- 
 sary conveniences and decorations, and then returned to 
 the room prepared for the entertainment. There sat down 
 with his highness, my Lord Philip, my Lord Petre, 
 Henry Nevill, Gascoyne, and the gentlemen of his retinue; 
 and the dinner was served with as much elegance and 
 skill as is usually met with at the tables of English 
 noblemen, who do not in general keep French cooks : 
 their tables, in consequence, though distinguished by 
 abundance, are deficient in quality and in that exquisite- 
 ness of relish which renders the French dishes grateful to 
 the palate. This is particularly the case with their pastry, 
 which is grossly made, with a great quantity of spices, 
 and badly baked. There is also a great want of that 
 neatness and gentility which is practised in Italy ; for, on 
 the English table, there are no forks, nor vessels to supply 
 water for the hands, which are washed in a basin full of 
 water, that serves for all the company; or perhaps at the 
 conclusion of dinner, they dip the end of the napkin into 
 the beaker which is set before each of the guests, filled 
 with water, and with this they clean their teeth, and wash 
 their hands. The festivity of the conversation was inter- 
 rupted by one of the kitchen chimnies taking fire, which 
 set every body in the house in motion; but being put out 
 
465 
 
 almost immediately, all apprehension ceased; neverthe- 
 less the conviviality was not continued much longer, al- 
 though the usual potations were by no means neglected, 
 on account of his highness's anxiety to continue his jour- 
 ney, and reach Chelmsford in the evening. Before his 
 departure, he received the compliments and good wishes 
 of my Lord Philip and Mr. Nevill, who had waited on 
 his highness thus far, with the intention of accompanying 
 him till his embarkation ; but this was not permitted by 
 the prince, who with much sincerity expressed to them 
 his gratitude for the delicate and polite attention which 
 they had shewn him from the time of his arrival in 
 England till that of his departure. After this, his high- 
 ness entered his carriage with my Lord Petre, who had 
 resolved at all events to attend him, without paying any 
 attention to his courteous repulse. Colonel Gascoyne 
 and the Chevalier Castiglione were also with him in the 
 carriage, and the gentlemen of his suite followed him, 
 the rest of his establishment having proceeded directly 
 to Chelmsford. 
 
 Thornton, the country-house of my Lord Petre, Baron 
 Petre and Writtel, is an ancient structure, built after the 
 same plan as all the others in England, with a tendency 
 
 3 O 
 
466 
 
 rather to the Gothic and the Rustic than to any chaste 
 style of architecture, but, as far as convenience is con- 
 cerned, sufficiently well contrived. It is in a good si- 
 tuation, surrounded by a wall which incloses a large and 
 green meadow ; and among other things which contribute 
 to its pleasantness, the deer-park, which extends to a 
 distance of five miles or more, is a most important addi- 
 tion to it. Its noble owner lives there with a magnifi- 
 cence equal to that of other peers of the kingdom, and 
 in a style commensurate with his fortune, which is esti- 
 mated at ten thousand pounds sterling per annum. 
 
 Towards evening, his highness arrived at Chelmsford, 
 and stopped at the Black Boy, having, in the tract of 
 country over which he travelled in the course of the day, 
 passed the village of Remington, containing a great num- 
 ber of houses, in the neighbourhood of which my Lord 
 Petre possesses several estates, which came to him by 
 legitimate descent from Baldwin Petre, and which he 
 holds as a fief of the crown, on condition of taking a leap 
 in the king's presence every year on Christmas Day, 
 in acknowledgment of his tenure, besides some other 
 ridiculous ceremonies, if what is related by the antiqua- 
 rians of the kingdom be true. On alighting from his 
 
467 
 
 carriage, his highness retired to his apartment, and occu- 
 pied himself in his rehgious exercises till supper-time,, 
 after which he retired to rest. 
 
 Before he was up on the morning of the 12th, the 
 son of General Monk came to Chelmsford from his villa, 
 to pay his respects to his highness in the name of the duke 
 his father, and to give him an invitation. He was intro- 
 duced to his highness at the earliest convenience, and paid 
 the most respectful homage to him on the part of the 
 general, who was prevented by illness from doing it 
 in person ; and, having received his highness's acknow- 
 ledgments, and also the assurance of his intention to visit 
 the villa in the course of his progress, the young man re- 
 turned without delay to give the speediest intimation of it 
 to his father. 
 
 After he had heard mass, while the carriages were 
 getting ready, his highness took a walk through the town, 
 which, from its population and wealth, ranks among the 
 principal ones in the county of Essex, in the centre of 
 which it stands. Then returning home, his highness got 
 into his carriage, and set out for Newhall, the seat of 
 General Monk, Duke of Albemarle, having sent off the 
 rest of his people on the direct road to Colchester: and 
 travelling the greatest part of the way through woods and 
 
 3 3 
 
468 
 
 meadows, descended into a valley, which serves as a sort 
 of receptacle to the streams of water that flow from the 
 surrounding hills, forming a lake, that approaches nearly 
 to Newhall. 
 
 His highness was received by General Monk in his 
 dressing gown, he being obliged by his complaint, which 
 was a confirmed dropsy, to keep the house, and to retire 
 from court to the quiet of the country. Being then con- 
 ducted into one of the principal rooms of the apartments 
 prepared for him, his highness entered into conversation 
 with the general, who, during the whole of the visit, did 
 every thing in his power to convince his highness of his 
 profound respect for him, and of the gratification which 
 the honor of his presence afforded him. His high- 
 ness was then ushered by the general, as well as his 
 infirmity would permit, into the room where refreshments 
 were prepared, which had, however, more the appearance 
 of a parsimonious collation than of a handsome dinner. 
 There sat down to table with his highness, the general, 
 his son, and the whole of his suite, and the usual festivity 
 of toast-drinking was not forgotten. Afterwards, his high- 
 ness went to see the gardens which are surrounded by a 
 wall, and extend round the whole of the large mansion, 
 being regularly divided into spacious walks, parterres, and 
 
469 
 
 hedge-rows of fruit trees ; and, having surveyed the whole 
 of the premises, returned to the house, where the car- 
 riage was ready for his departure. Before he set off, his 
 highness again saw the general, and expressed to him the 
 great esteem he had for his person, and his thanks for 
 his courteous reception, which had afforded him the gra- 
 tification he so much wished for, of becoming acquainted 
 with that great man, for whom the king had an affection 
 almost filial, and of whose courage and prudence the 
 people had so high an opinion. 
 
 General George Monk, Duke of Albemarle, in paint 
 of personal appearance, is of the middle size, of a stout and 
 square-built make, of a complexion partly sanguine and 
 partly phlegmatic, as indeed is generally the case with 
 the English; his face is fair, but somewhat wrinkled from 
 age, he being upwards of sixty years old; his hair is grey, 
 and his features not particularly fine or noble. As to the 
 qualities of his mind, he is a man of talents, of courage, 
 and of sound judgment ; and to him belongs the glory of 
 having re-established the king in England, an achieve- 
 ment to which he was manifestly incited, not by the fear 
 of being deposed from the command of the army, as was 
 anticipated by some on account of the disunion of the 
 rebels after Cromwell's death, and the confused state of 
 
470 
 
 Parliament, which had already appointed four commis- 
 sioners to supersede him, but by his love for the tranquil- 
 lity of the kingdom, and the uprightness of his loyalty; 
 so that, besides the peaceable enjoyment of the highest 
 rank in the kingdom, he receives from the king that con- 
 sideration which is due to a person of his distinction, 
 whose name deserves to be handed down to posterity as 
 one of the greatest commanders that the present age has 
 produced. Monk is married to a lady of low origin, she 
 Jiaving been formerly employed in one of the mercers' 
 shops in the Exchange, in London. Falling in love 
 with this lady, he overlooked every other advantageous 
 connection that might have been more suitable to his 
 rank, and made her his wife. Her former station shews 
 itself in her manners and her dress, she being no way 
 remarkable for elegance or gentility. Her son, however, 
 which she has borne to the general, makes up for his 
 mother's deficiency. 
 
 Newhall, the seat of the Duke of Albemarle, is a 
 spacious and magnificent edifice, not only equalling, 
 but very much surpassing in extent and beauty almost 
 every other in the kingdom. It was built by Queen 
 Elizabeth, whose arms and name appear over the great 
 gate, which opens into a wide court and lawn before the 
 
471 
 
 palace. It then went by right of purchase to the Duke 
 of Buckingham, and by him was sold at a very great 
 price to the present Duke of Albemarle. The tout ensem- 
 ble of the structure is of a high character ; and although 
 the architecture is not in that perfect style which is ob- 
 servable in modern buildings, yet it is by no means des- 
 titute of grandeur, owing to the size and elegance of 
 the apartments, more especially the principal ones. The 
 splendor of this royal habitation is augmented by several 
 sheets of water, and delightful gardens, which the general 
 has of late greatly improved, and surrounded the whole 
 with a wall, in order to render his residence more agree- 
 able. He lives in a style equal to that of the other noble- 
 men of the kingdom, and is well able to keep up a splen- 
 did establishment, having an annual income of twenty 
 thousand pounds sterling per annum. 
 
 From Newhall his highness proceeded rapidly to Col- 
 chester, passing through the villages of Witham and 
 Keltham, and arrived there before evening, time enough 
 to take a walk round the city. Colonel Gascoyne, who 
 attended him, directed his attention to an ancient castle 
 of a square form with four towers, one at each corner; at 
 the foot of it he pointed out a place distinguished by a small 
 white cross, fixed in the ground, where he, having been 
 
472 
 
 taken prisoner by the Parliamentary army, was condemned 
 to be shot, with other officers of the royal party ; but this 
 sentence, for certain reasons, was commuted to banish- 
 ment from the kingdom. The mayor, with the aldermen 
 and others constituting the magistracy of the city, came 
 in state to wait upon his highness, who received them with 
 the formalities observed on similar occasions. His hish. 
 ness passed the evening alone, supping in private, and 
 his orentlemen according; to their usual habits. 
 
 Colchester, the capital city of the county of Essex, si- 
 tuated on the river Coll, from which it takes its name, is 
 surrounded by a wall, with several watch towers, which, 
 being wasted by time, are in a very ruinous state ; and ad- 
 joining to it, without the wall, are extensive suburbs. The 
 business of the place consists in the manufacture of baize 
 and English serge, which are here better made and brought 
 to greater perfection than any where else in the kingdom, 
 and consequently it so employs the greatest part of th^ 
 population, which amounts to upwards of sixteen thou- 
 sand souls. 
 
 The following morning, the 13th, having performed 
 all his usual duties, his highness entered his carriage, and 
 leaving Colchester, travelled over an undulating country, 
 partly wooded and partly pasture, which continued as far 
 
473 
 
 as Ipswich, where he arrived in the middle of the day. 
 Having alighted, he took a turn round the city, which is 
 not the least considerable in the kingdom, and then re- 
 turned to the inn to dinner. 
 
 Ipswich, one of the most celebrated, iand indeed the 
 principal town in the county of Suffolk, is situated on the 
 banks of the river Stour, which, from being subject to 
 the influx of the tide, affords a convenient harbour to 
 ships, and by the fulness of its stream is navigable to 
 the sea; into which, after becoming gradually wider, it 
 disembogues itself near the castle of Framlingham. Its 
 circumference is very considerable, and it was once siir^ 
 rounded by a wall, which however has now fallen into 
 decay, and left the town without any defence. It pos- 
 sesses many handsome buildings, as well for private resi- 
 dences as for public business ; and, upon the whole, its 
 appearance, with its spacious squares (piazzas) and 
 streets, is very noble. It is a mercantile town, and carries 
 on commerce with other parts of the kingdom and 
 with foreign ports, by means of vessels, which are conti- 
 nually coming in and clearing out ; and from the encou- 
 ragement there given by trade, its population amounts 
 to upwards of two thousand souls. The administration 
 
 SP 
 
474 
 
 of civil justice is in the hands of the mayor and town 
 council, who, as in other cities of England, reside 
 there, and officiate in minor offences ; the decisions 
 of more important cases being reserved for the judges, 
 who make their regular circuits, with a commission for 
 that purpose. 
 
 After dinner, his highness went down to the port; and, 
 availing himself of the boats which were in attendance at 
 the river-side for his highness's convenience and for the 
 conveyance of his people, dropped down the river; and, 
 having both wind and tide in his favor, came to an 
 anchor in good time, and before the evening, at Harwich, 
 having left Landguard Fort on his left. He went imme- 
 diately on his landing to the house which had been pre- 
 viously provided for him by the courier, and found there, 
 waiting to welcome his arrival, the town major of the 
 fortress, with whom he held a long conversation. He 
 then went out with all his suite, to take a view of the sea, 
 and walked through the principal streets of the city till the 
 close of the day, when he returned to his lodgings. 
 
 Harwich, a town in the county of Essex, was formerly 
 a place of no great note as a sea-port, nor would it have 
 been so at present, had not the king, after he had settled the 
 
475 
 
 disturbances of the kingdom, improved it by building a 
 fort at the mouth of the river, which it defends, and af- 
 fords the most secure shelter to ships of the largest size ; 
 for the sea, rushing into the town, forms a spacious basin, 
 which is shut in on almost every side. This being the 
 nearest point to Holland, they at present forward from this 
 port, for the sake of greater expedition, the despatches 
 which they have occasion to send td other countries, 
 in very light and fast-sailing vessels, built for this es- 
 pecial purpose. The place itself, as a town, with the ex- 
 ception of the port, is not of much consequence. Its 
 buildings are mean and shabby, the population consisting 
 chiefly of sailors, fishermen, and the soldiers of the gar- 
 rison, of whom there are three companies of sixty men 
 each, belonging to the Duke of York's regiment, one 
 of which is employed to guard the castle, and the 
 other two the harbour. On entering the port, mer- 
 chant vessels, as well as ships of war, are exempt from 
 paying toll ; but, on clearing out, they pay fourpence to 
 the harbour, and sixpence to the fort. 
 i Having determined upon going over to Holland, the 
 serene prince, on Friday the 14th, having performed his 
 religious duties, took a walk through Harwich, and, 
 when it was near dinner-time, returned home, and the 
 
 3 PS 
 
476 
 
 table being spread, desired the town major to stay to din- 
 ner, of which he partook with all the gentlemen of his suite. 
 Two hours after mid-day, every thing requisite hav^ 
 ing been previously prepared, and the baggage and 
 people of his household embarked on board a large boat 
 freighted for the purpose, his highness determined, as the 
 weather was favorable, to take his departure ; and going 
 down to the wafer-side, went on board the small boat 
 that was in readiness to carry him to the yacht, which 
 waited for him in the harbour, at some distance, under 
 the command of Captain Thomas Crow, with express 
 orders from the king to convey his highness to HoU 
 land ; and it was the very vessel which the States General 
 of the United Provinces had presented to his majesty on 
 the occasion of his restoration to the kingdom. My Lord 
 Petre, Colonel Gascoyne, and the town major, waited on 
 his highness to the place of embarkation, and being 
 then dismissed, after they had made the proper compli- 
 ments, they departed, as well as Thomas Piatt, who 
 had served his highness in the quality of interpreter 
 on his passage from Spain to England. In the mean 
 time, the anchor being weighed, and the sails set, 
 the yacht turned her head towards Rotterdam, being 
 saluted by the fortress, as she went out of the harbour, 
 
477 
 
 with discharges of cannon, which were duly answered. 
 Standing out to sea with a favorable wind, they 
 ran, without needing much skill in navigation, over 
 the whole tract of sea, which is many leagues in ex 
 tent, as far as Briel ; every one was affected by the 
 motion of the water, the vessel, owing to its lightness, 
 being much tost about by the waves ; so that there was 
 no person on board but what, in the course of the night, 
 suffered sea-sickness, and lightened his stomach without 
 the assistance of medicine. At day-break they found 
 themselves off Briel, which may be considered the key 
 that open and shuts the entrance into Holland on this 
 side, being situated just where the Meuse, mixing its 
 waters with those of other rivers, carries in conjunction 
 with them his tribute to the ocean. Having passed 
 Briel, the sea becomes narrower towards Rotterdam ; and 
 soon the Meuse and Rhine lose themselves in a deep and 
 spacious canal, on whose banks are many good towns, 
 and into this the yacht advanced with a fresh breeze. 
 About half way up this canal they met a boat, on board 
 of which was Signor Francis Fevrori, who came from 
 Amsterdam to pay his respects to and wait upon his 
 highness, who was exceedingly gratified by his attention. 
 After this the yacht, continuing its course, came to an 
 
478 
 
 anchor at Rotterdam two hours before mid-day, in abont 
 twenty hours from the time of their setting sail from 
 England. 
 
 Great Britain, the most famous of all the European 
 islands, is about five hundred and ninety miles long, 
 and its greatest breadth, from the Land's End to the 
 North Foreland, about four hundred and eighty-eight 
 miles ; and, in consequence of the irregularity of its 
 coasts, which are interrupted by frequent indentures, or 
 bays, formed by the sea, it is one thousand eight hundred 
 miles in circumference, including England, Cornwall, and 
 Wales, the three great provinces into which it is principally 
 divided, each of these being subdivided into other smaller 
 provinces, or counties, of which there are fifty-two. Thirty- 
 nine of these, according to the recent division of the king- 
 dom, belong to England, and thirteen to the Principality 
 of Wales ; and from them, though they have no local 
 jurisdiction, the peers take their titles, either by right of 
 inheritance or by the king's free gift. They contain 
 twenty-five cities, and six hundred and forty towns and 
 boroughs, and, altogether, one thousand seven hundred 
 and twenty parishes. 
 
479 
 
 England extends along the German Ocean; Cornwall 
 is over against France ; and the Principality of Wales, 
 which is the western part of the kingdom, lies opposite 
 to Ireland. The two last, with the exception of their tin 
 and lead mines, can boast but little fertility; the former, 
 which is greatly superior to the others in extent of terri- 
 tory, riches, and temperature of climate, being the only 
 one that is distinguished for its fruitfulness. 
 
 The government of ecclesiastical affairs was formerly 
 in the hands of three archbishops, those of London, 
 York, and Caerleon ; who, when the whole kingdom was 
 formed into three provinces, divided the superintendance 
 of them among themselves : but the archbishoprics of 
 London and Caerleon being suppressed, and united to 
 form the new primacy of Canterbury, it is now divided 
 into two only. There are, therefore, at present two arch- 
 bishoprics, those of York and Canterbury, and twenty- 
 four bishoprics, with many other ecclesiastical dignitaries. 
 
 The Churches of England are, in general, rich, and 
 splendidly endowed; though the apostasy of Henry VIII. 
 and his son Edward VI., who persuaded themselves 
 that it was lawful to appropriate to themselves the eccle- 
 siastical revenues, has greatly diminished and reduced 
 them. 
 
480 
 
 Of the general administration of the kingdom, the 
 most exalted part is vested in the person of the king, a 
 dignity which is acquired by succession, and transmitted 
 by right of inheritance to the nearest male heirs of the 
 blood royal, passing, in failure of such, to the females; 
 The authority of Parliament alwaiys remains the same ; 
 that body is composed of three sorts of persons, constitut- 
 ing three orders, the ecclesiastics, the great lords of the king- 
 dom, and the deputies of the people from the cities and more 
 important towns : it is nevertheless, to a certain extent, 
 subject to the controul of the king, who has the privilege 
 of convoking and dissolving it. 
 
 In the particular government of each city, the princi- 
 pal management is in the hands of the council, or the 
 upper magistracy, which is changed every year, being 
 composed of a certain number of persons called alder- 
 men, the first of whom bears the name of mayor. He 
 attends to the internal economy of the city, and also to 
 the buildings ; and hears, in the first instance, such causes 
 as concern the interests of the inhabitants, reserving the 
 criminal and the civil ones, when the parties are exempt 
 from his jurisdiction, and those of appeal, for the judges, 
 who, travelling through the kingdom several times a-year, 
 come with the sheriff of the county to decide them. 
 
481 
 
 This island, from its natural advantage of being sur- 
 rounded by the ocean, is secure on most sides from 
 hostile invasion ; the natural strength of the country being 
 encreased by the fortification of those parts where thq 
 enemy might force an entrance, by dint of abundance of 
 artillery and other instruments of war. , , 
 
 The country is competent to supply soldiers sufficient 
 to resist any attempts against its tranquillity; and, aU 
 though the whole of its population ^isjiot fit for service, 
 it can, nevertheless, assemble out of the abundant popu- 
 lation of the kingdom (which, calculated according to 
 the parishes and families, amounts to five millions of 
 souls) more than an hundred and fifty thousand men, 
 well suited, both by their valor and discipline, to the pur- 
 poses of war, both on foot and on horseback ; without 
 counting those which she furnishes for the sea-service, 
 and to man the vast quantity of ships that issue from its 
 ports, which have not only brought to her shores the 
 commerce of all the celebrated mercantile places in 
 Europe, but also opened the door to a participation in 
 that of the Indies. 
 
 There are about an hundred vessels of war belonging 
 to the king, or to the different trading companies of 
 England, distributed among the different harbours of 
 
 3Q 
 
482 
 
 the kingdom, to be ready, when occasion may require, 
 to' guard the coasts, or to convoy the fleets of ships of 
 burden, which, to the amount of more than two hundred, 
 navigate the seas, to carry merchandize to and from dif- 
 ferent parts. 
 
 The king's dominions (to say nothing of the right that 
 he pretends to have over the kingdom of France, of 
 which he retains the arms and title, and over the seas 
 which surround England, Ireland, and their dependent 
 islands) consist of England, Scotland, and Ireland, being 
 the three kingdoms, which, after his restoration to the 
 Crown, continued to be, as before, under his authority. 
 His jurisdiction extends not only over the islands in the 
 neighbourhood of the three afore-mentioned kingdoms, 
 amounting, large and small, to upwards of forty, but 
 also over those of Jersey, Gurnsey, and Alderney, appen- 
 dages of the Duchy of Normandy; and over the con- 
 quered countries of New England, Virginia, Jamaica, 
 Florida, the Bermudas, Barbadoes, and other places; with 
 the addition also of those which he possesses in the East 
 Indies, on the coast of Africa, and on the Terra Firma of 
 North America, either by lawful acquirement or the 
 right of discovery. 
 
 With foreign princes, the king maintains an amicable 
 
483 
 
 intercourse, either for the sake of trade, or of mutual as- 
 sistance, or on account of the vicinity or the situation of 
 their respective countries, sending ministers to their courts 
 to keep up a good understanding; but this understanding 
 varies and changes with the alteration of interests. It 
 would seem that the most strict understanding at present 
 is kept up with France, from the hope that, in case of 
 emergency, the most effectual assistance and support may 
 be derived from that quarter. That which exists with 
 the United Provinces is less intimate, and experiences 
 frequent changes on account of the Herring Fishery, for 
 the sake of which these two nations dispute the liberty 
 of the sea ; and, on this account, the English take occa- 
 sion to offer insults to the Dutch ships, obliging them to 
 lower their flags, either when they meet their vessels of 
 war at sea, or when they unavoidably coast along the 
 island, to avoid the long circuit which ships must other- 
 wise make in sailing for the East Indies. 
 
 By the convenience of its seas and navigable rivers, 
 England is abundantly supplied with whatever it does not 
 produce within itself. It has no want of iron, lead, tin, 
 and wool of peculiar fineness, which is exported into other 
 countries at a great profit. 
 
 The face of the country, throughout the kingdom, is, 
 
484 
 
 for tTie most part, an undulating plain, interspersed with 
 pleasant hills, which swell so gently, that the eye can 
 scarcely distinguish them from the most level plain. The 
 land is divided into acres, which is a large plot of ground 
 measuring forty perches in length and four in breadth. 
 Two bushels of seed, current measure composed of four 
 pecks each, sown upon an acre of land, return an in- 
 crease of five, six, seven, sixteen, and twenty, varying in 
 the different provinces according to the quality and 
 fertility of the soil on which it is grown. The land 
 is let for twenty-one years, and the sum total of the rent 
 is fixed according to the number of acres ; of this sum, 
 two thirds, or one half, is paid before-hand by the renter 
 to the owner in the first instance, and the payments every 
 successive year are made in certain proportions, till the 
 whole price covenanted for is paid, and the rent liquidat- 
 ed ; at which time, the renter can, at his pleasure, either 
 keep the land under the plough, or bring it back to a state 
 of pasturage, laying it down with grass for cattle, in- 
 numerable quantities of which are fed in every part 
 of England. It is not inferior to the other provinces 
 (Wales and Cornwall) in game and fowl of all sorts, and 
 fish of every description; enjoying these gifts of nature in 
 abundance, both on land and in its rivers. From this 
 
485 
 
 abundance of all things, arises in the English nation that 
 contemptuous disposition which it entertains towards 
 other countries, thinking them unprovided with the ad- 
 vantages which it finds in its own ; and, on this account, 
 the common people treat foreigners with little respect, and 
 even with haughtiness, and are scarcely induced to relax 
 by any act of civility whatever that is shewn to them on 
 the part of the latter. Nor does their natural insolence 
 terminate here ; it was manifested to a much greater ex- 
 tent in the efforts made, of late years, to overthrow the 
 royal authority, making England a theatre of revolution 
 and of deplorable spectacles, which would have continued, 
 if, after all the changes of government and vicissitudes 
 of war which have agitated this kingdom during so long 
 a period, the sagacity and prudence of General Monk, 
 governor of Scotland, had not repaired the disorders, by 
 recalling the king to the throne, and, by means of his 
 restoration to the supreme power, re-establishing in the 
 kingdom tranquillity and peace. 
 
APPENDIX. 
 
 Lists of Members of the Two House of Parliament j with the Oaths taken j 
 and other Ceremonies connected with the mode of conducting Parlia- 
 mentary Business at that period. 
 
 THE UPPER HOUSE. 
 
 ARCHBISHOPS 
 
 Dr. Gilbert Sheldon, Abp. of Canterbury 
 
 Dr. Richard Sterne, Abp. of York 
 
 Dr. Humphrey Henchman, Bp. of London 
 
 Dr. John Cosens, Bp. of Durham 
 
 Dr. George Morley, Bp. of Winchester 
 
 Dr. William Piers, Bp. of Bath and Wells 
 
 Dr. Robert Skinner, Bp. of Bristol (now of 
 
 Worcester) 
 Dr. Henry King, Bp. of Chichester 
 Dr. William Lucy, Bp. of St. David's 
 Dr. Benjamin Lancy, Bp. of Ely 
 Dr. Gilbert Ironside, Bp. of Bristol 
 Dr. Edward Reynolds, Bp. of Norwich, and 
 Abbot of St. Benedict of Holme, 
 being the only Abbot now remain- 
 ing in England 
 
 AND BISHOPS. 
 
 Dr. William Nicholson, Bp. of Gloucester 
 Dr. John Hacker, Bp. of Coventry and 
 
 Litchfield 
 Dr. Seth Ward, Bp. of Salisbury 
 Dr. Herbert Crofts, Bp. of Hereford 
 Dr. Henshaw, Bp. of Peterborougli 
 Dr. Rainbow, Bp. of Carlisle 
 Dr. Blandford, Bp. of Oxford 
 Dr. Dolben, Bp. of Rochester 
 Dr. Davis, Bp. of LandafF 
 Dr. Fuller, Bp. of Lincoln 
 Dr. Glembam, Bp. of St. Asaph 
 Dr. Morgan, Bp. of Bangor 
 Dr. Sparrow, Bp. of Exeter 
 Dr. Wilkins, Bp. of Chester 
 
 These bishops have been replaced by the king in their sees, from which they 
 were expelled by Cromwell, who appropriated to himself their revenues. They 
 are of low birth, in consequence of certain customs which have been introduced 
 into the kingdom ; but the king wishing to abolish these, and to return to the 
 ancient usage, in order to enhance the dignity of the episcopacy with nobility of 
 
488 
 
 blood, proposed his brother the Duke of Gloucester as Archbishop of Canterbury, 
 but this measure did not take place, being interrupted by his death. Neverthe- 
 less, as soon as they are elevated to the government of the church, they are de- 
 clared barons, peers of the realm, and lords spiritual, with the privilege of taking 
 place and voting before all the other members of the Upper House of Parliament, 
 and of Convocation J while the suffragan bishops, deans, archdeacons, canons, 
 rectors and vicars, have a place and a vote by special grant in the Lower House j 
 the bishops by proxy, and the others by their own voices. 
 
 The next seats in Parliament to those of the bishops are filled by the lord 
 chancellor, the lord treasurer, the president of the king's council, and the other 
 great officers of the crown j who, although they are not dukes, yet have a higher 
 place than those of that rank by virtue of their office, which gives them prece- 
 dency of all except the princes of the blood j that is to say, the sons, brothers, 
 and nephews of the king : otherwise the quality of duke confers the first rank 
 among the nobility of the kingdom, immediately after the bishops. After dukes 
 come the marquisses; after these the eldest sons of dukes, who have the title of 
 earlj then earlsj next the eldest sons of marquisses, the younger sons of dukes, 
 viscounts, the eldest sons of earls, bearing the title of their father's barony, and 
 sometimes that of viscount, the second sons of marquisses, barons, the eldest sons 
 of viscounts, the younger sons of earls, the eldest sons of barons, the younger sons 
 of viscounts, and the younger sons of barons; these two last, by an enactment of 
 King James, are obliged to give place to Knights of the Garter, and to the mem- 
 bers of the king's privy council. Among people of quality, on public occasions 
 and in public assemblies, precedence is always taken according to seniority, un- 
 less when one or other of the before-mentioned great offices of the kingdom is 
 vested in their person, 
 
 PRINCES OF THE BLOOD. 
 
 James, Duke of York, Lord High Admiral of England, only brother of the King. 
 Edgar, Duke of Cambridge, son of the Duke of York. 
 
 GREAT OFFICERS OF THE KINGDOM, 
 
 The Lord Chancellor 
 
 The Lord Treasurer 
 
 The President of the King's Council 
 
 The Lord Privy Seal 
 
 The Lord High Admiral 
 
 The Lord Chamberlain 
 The Lord High Constable 
 The Lord Marshal 
 The Lord Seneschal 
 
489 
 
 DUKES. 
 
 Thomas Howard, Duke of Norfolk 
 William Seymour, Duke of Somerset 
 George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham and 
 Coventry 
 
 Charles Stuart, Duke of Richmond 
 George Monk, Duke of Albemarle 
 James Scott, Duke of Monmouth 
 William Cavendbh, Duke of Newcastle 
 
 MARQUISSES. 
 
 John Paulet, Marquis of Winchester 
 Henry Somerset, Marquis of Worcester 
 
 Henry Pierrepoint, Marquis of Dorches^r 
 
 EARLS. 
 
 ^dward Montague, Earl of Manchester and 
 
 ■ Viscount Mandeville 
 
 Aubrey de Vere, Earl of Oxford 
 Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland and 
 
 Baron Percy 
 Francis Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury and 
 
 Wexford 
 Anthony Grey, Earl of Kent 
 Charles Stanley, Earl of Derby and Baron 
 
 Stanley 
 John Manners, Earl of Rutland 
 John Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon and 
 
 Hastings 
 William Russell, Earl of Bedford 
 Philip Herbert, Earl of Pembroke 
 Edward Fiennes, Earl of Lincoln and Baron 
 
 Clinton 
 Charles Howard, Earl of Nottingham 
 James Howard, Earl of Suffolk 
 R. Saville, Earl of Dorset and Buckhurst 
 James Cecil, Earl of Salisbury and Viscount 
 
 Cranboume 
 John Cecil, Earl of Exeter and Baron 
 
 Burghley 
 George Egerton, Earl of Bridgewater 
 James Compton, Earl of Northampton 
 
 Robert Sydney, Earl of Leicester and Baron 
 
 Sydney 
 C. Rich, Earl of Warwick and Baron Rich 
 William Cavendish, Earl of Devonshire 
 Basil Fielding, Earl of Denbigh and Vis- 
 count Fielding 
 George Digby, Earl of Bristol 
 Lionel Cranfield, Earl of Middlesex 
 Robert Rich, Earl of Holland 
 Gilbert Holies, Earl of Clare 
 Oliver St. John, Earl of Bolingbroke 
 Charles Fane, Earl of Westmorland 
 Edward Montagu, Earl of Manchester 
 Thomas Howard, Earl of Berkshire 
 John ShefHeld, Earl of Mulgrave 
 Thomas Savage, Earl of Rivers and Vis- 
 count Colchester 
 Robert Bertie, Earl of Lindsey and Baron 
 Eresby 
 
 Lee, Earl of Marlborough 
 
 Henry Grey, I^rl of Stamford 
 Heneage Finch, Earl of Winchelsea 
 Charles Dormer, Earl of Carnarvon 
 Montjoy Blount, Earl of Newport 
 Philip Stanhope, Earl of Chesterfield 
 Thomas W^eston, Earl of Portland 
 
 3 R 
 
490 
 
 Nicholas Tufton, Earl of Thanet 
 William Wentworth, Earl of Stafford 
 Robert Spencer, Earl of Sunderland 
 James Savil, Earl of Sussex 
 Charles Goring, Earl of Norwich 
 Nicholas Leake, Earl of Scarsdale 
 John Willmot, Earl of Rochester 
 Henry Jermyn, Earl of St. Albans and Vis- 
 count Tunbridge 
 Edward Montague, Earl of Sandwich 
 
 James Butler, Earl of Brecknock 
 Edward Hyde, Earl of Clarendon 
 Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex 
 Robert Brudenell, Earl of Cardigan 
 Anthony Annesley, Earl of Anglesey 
 John Granville, Earl of Bath 
 Charles Howard, Earl of Carlisle 
 John Craven, Earl of Craven 
 Thomas Bruce, Earl of Aylesbury 
 Richard Boyle, Earl of Burlington 
 
 VISCOUNTS. 
 
 Leicester Devereux, Viscount Hertford 
 Francis Brown, Viscount Montagu 
 James Fiennes, Viscount Say and Sele 
 Edward Conway, Viscount Conway and 
 Killultah 
 
 Baptist Noel, Viscount Camden 
 W^illiara Howard, Viscount Stafford 
 Thomas Bellasyse, Viscount Falconbridge 
 John Mordaunt, Viscount Mordaunt 
 George Savil, Viscount Halifax 
 
 BARONS. 
 
 John Nevil, Baron Abergavenny 
 
 James Touchet, Baron Audley 
 
 Charles V7est, Baron Vane 
 
 George Berkeley, Baron Berkeley 
 
 T. Parker, Baron Morley and Monteagle 
 
 Francis Lennard, Baron Dacier 
 
 Congers D'Arcy, Baron D' Arcy and Meinel 
 
 William Stourton, Baron Stourton 
 
 Henry, Baron Sandys de la Vine 
 
 Thomas Hickman, Baron Windsor 
 
 Wingfield Cromwell, Baron Cromwell and 
 
 Okeham 
 George Eure, Baron Eure and Whitton 
 Philip Wharton, Baron Wharton 
 William Willoughby, Baron Willoughby 
 
 of Farham 
 W. Paget, Baron Paget and Beaudesert 
 Dudley North, Baron North of Kirtling 
 William Bruges, Baron Chandos 
 
 William Petre, Baron Petre of Writtle 
 Dutton Gerard, Baron Gerard and Bromley 
 C. Stanhope, Baron Stanhope of Harrington 
 Henry Arundel, Baron Arundel of Warder. 
 Christopher Roper, Baron Teynham 
 F. Greville, Baron Brooke of Beauchamp's 
 
 Court 
 E. Montagu, Baron Montagu of Boughton 
 C. Howard, Baron Howard of Charlton 
 William Grey, Baron Grey of Werk 
 John Robarts, Baron Robarts 
 John Lovelace, Baron Lovelace and Harley 
 John Paulet, Baron Paulet and St. George 
 W. Maynard, Baron Maynard and Hastings 
 George Coventry, Baron Coventry and 
 
 Aylesbury 
 Edward Howard, Baron Howard of Escrick 
 C. Mohun, Baron Mohun and Okehampton 
 William Butler, Baron Butler 
 
491 
 
 Peter Herbert, Baron Powis 
 Edward Herbert, Baron Cherbury 
 Francis Seymour, Baron Seymour 
 Francis Newport, Baron Newport 
 Thomas Leigh, Baron Stoneley 
 Christopher Hatton, Baron Hatton 
 Richard Biron, Baron Biron 
 Richard Vaughan, Baron Vaughan 
 Charles Smith, Baron Carrington 
 "William Widdington, Baron Widdington 
 Humble Ward, Baron Ward and Carlton 
 Thomas, Baron Colepepper 
 Isaac Astley, Baron Astley 
 John Lucas, Baron Lucas 
 John Bellasyse, Baron Bellasyse 
 Lewis Watson, Baron Rockingham 
 
 Charles Gerard, Baron Brandon 
 Robert Sutton, Baron Lexington 
 Charles Kirckhoven, Baron Wotton 
 Marmaduke Langdale, Baron Langdale 
 William Croftes, Baron Croftes 
 John Berkeley, Baron Berkeley 
 Daniel Hollis, Baron Hollis 
 Frederic Cornwallis, Baron Comwallis 
 George Booth, Baron Delanere 
 Horace Townshend, Baron Townshend 
 Anthony Ashley Cooper, Baron Ashley 
 John Crew, Baron Crew 
 Henry Bennet, Baron Arlington 
 John Frechevill, Baron Frechevill 
 Richard Arundel, Baron Arundel of Trerice. 
 Thomas Butler, Baron Butler of Morepark 
 
 LOWER HOUSE, OR HOUSE OF COMMONS. 
 
 This is so called from the Representatives, or Parliamentary Deputies, who, 
 on a summons being issued for the meeting of Parliament, are elected by the 
 different provinces, and the other communities contained respectively within their 
 jurisdictions. Their Names are as follow :— 
 
 Sir Turner, called the 
 
 Speaker, or 
 
 Sir DoUman 
 
 Orator. 
 
 
 
 Mr. Aldworth 
 
 Lord Bruce, son of the 
 
 Earl of 
 
 Aylesbury 
 
 Mr. Cock 
 
 Sir Winch, Bart. 
 
 
 
 Mr. Hoby 
 
 Sir Fane, Knight 
 
 of the Bath 
 
 Mr. Burley 
 
 Mr. Packer 
 
 
 
 Mr. lUendey. 
 
 Sir Stonehausen, 
 
 Bart. 
 
 
 
 Mr. Taylor 
 
 
 
 Mr. Crouch 
 
 Sir Lube 
 
 
 
 Sir Crompton 
 
 Judge Heeling 
 
 
 
 Mr. Pepys 
 
 Mr. Lovelace, 
 
 
 
 Mr. Broxton 
 
 Mr, Powle 
 
 
 
 Mr, Venables 
 
 Sir Braham 
 
 
 
 Sir Smith 
 
 Mr. Higgins 
 
 
 
 Mr. Radcliff 
 3 R 2 
 
493 
 
 Mr. Trelawney 
 
 Mr. Prade 
 
 Mr. Cotton 
 
 Mr. Nosrooth 
 
 Sir Harbord 
 
 Mr. Rashleigh 
 
 Mr. Harris 
 
 Mr. Ellyott 
 
 Sir Bonger, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Burley 
 
 Mr. Smith 
 
 Mr. Munn 
 
 Sir Terringham 
 
 Mr. Spechat 
 
 Sir Temple, Bart. 
 
 Sir Brake, Bart. 
 
 Sir Pye, Bart. 
 
 Sir Tredenham 
 
 Sir Burley, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Sprey 
 
 Sir Ingoldsby 
 
 Sir Vivian, Bart. 
 
 Sir Leighton, Bart. 
 
 Sir . Mich 
 
 Sir Drake, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Buller 
 
 Mr. Proby 
 
 Sir Corwen, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Hampden 
 
 Mr. Tanner 
 
 Mr. Brereton 
 
 Mr. Seymour 
 
 Mr. Trevor 
 
 Mr. Atkins 
 
 Mr. Roberts 
 
 Mr. Pendavis 
 
 Sir Smith 
 
 Mr. Rich 
 
 Sir Carera, Bart 
 
 Mr. Balgowan 
 
 Mr. Greenville, Equerry to the King 
 
 Mr. Herbe 
 
 Sir Killington 
 
 Sir Howard 
 
 Mr. Robinson 
 
 Mr. Musgrave 
 
 Mr. Francis BuUerieme 
 
 Sir Lawson 
 
 Mr. George Buller 
 
 Mr. Potter 
 
 Mr. Coventry 
 
 Lord Cavendish 
 
 Mr. Rascanoch 
 
 Mr. Frechevill 
 
 Mr. Granville 
 
 Mr. Meestry 
 
 Mr. Nicolas 
 
 Mr. Dalton 
 
 Mr. Trelawny 
 
 Mr. Bishop 
 
 Mr. Trevanion 
 
 Sir Pollard, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Prideaux 
 
 Sir Rolle 
 
 Sir Wrey, Bart. 
 
 Sir Smith 
 
 Mr. Boteler 
 
 Mr. Mather 
 
 Mr. Arundel 
 
 Sir Seymour, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Boscorol 
 
 Sir Clifford, Treasurer to the King. 
 
 Mr. Roberts, son of Lord Roberts 
 
 Sir Morris 
 
 Mr. Rouse 
 
 Mr. Trelawney 
 
 Mr. Buller 
 
 Mr. Wise 
 
 Mr. Basset 
 
 Sir Neile, Bart. 
 
493 
 
 Sir Chichester, Bart. 
 
 Sir Bankes 
 
 Sir Fletcher, Bart 
 
 Mr. Tregonnell 
 
 Sir Powle, Bart. 
 
 Sir Ayloff, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Prideaux 
 
 Sur Branston, Knight of the Bath 
 
 Mr. Howard 
 
 Sir Grimston 
 
 Mr. Russell 
 
 Mr. Sherard 
 
 Sir Darcy, Bart. 
 
 Sir Tyrrell 
 
 Sir Sondes, Knight of the Bath 
 
 Sir Wiseman 
 
 Mr. Slingsby 
 
 Sir Wright, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Harbord 
 
 Mr. King 
 
 Mr. Southcote 
 
 Mr. Grubbamiton 
 
 Sir Maynard 
 
 Sir Throckmorton, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Howard 
 
 Mr. Massey 
 
 Sir Stukeley 
 
 Mr. Lovelace 
 
 Mr. Carera 
 
 Sir Masters 
 
 Mr. Griffiths 
 
 Sir Clarke 
 
 Mr. Stroud 
 
 Mr. George 
 
 Sir Morton 
 
 Mr. Capel 
 
 Sir Constantino 
 
 Mr. Dowdeswell 
 
 Mr. Morton 
 
 Mr. Scudamore 
 
 Sir Fitzjames 
 
 Mr. Price 
 
 Mr. Gould 
 
 Sir Scrigen 
 
 Sir Sharpe 
 
 Sir Hopton 
 
 Mr. Henby 
 
 Sir Grahame 
 
 Mr. Strangeways 
 
 Mr. Comewall 
 
 Mr. Seys 
 
 Mr. Tomkins 
 
 Mr. Garle 
 
 Mr. Bamaby 
 
 Mr. Dennis 
 
 Sir Franklin, Bart. 
 
 Sir Strade 
 
 Mr. Jennings 
 
 Mr. Neile 
 
 Mr. Atty 
 
 Sir Churchill 
 
 Sir Turner 
 
 Sir Raines 
 
 Sir Hunt 
 
 Sir Penn 
 
 Mr. WilUaras 
 
 Sir Strangeways 
 
 Mr. Cotton 
 
 Mr. Whitaker 
 
 Mr. Walden 
 
 Mr. Zeroe 
 
 Sir Pagden, Bart. 
 
 Sir Pett 
 
 Sir Tufton, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Culliford 
 
 Sir Farrand 
 
 Mr. Lawrence 
 
 Mr. Gregg 
 
 Mr. Pett 
 
 Sir Hartop 
 
49 1 
 
 Sir Bridgeman 
 
 Viscount Sanderson 
 
 Sir Carr, Bart. 
 
 Sir — f— Batten 
 
 Sir Peirse 
 
 Mr. Barnham 
 Mr. Herbert 
 
 Sir Hales 
 
 Mr. Stanley 
 
 Sir Bradshawe 
 
 Sir Harrison 
 
 Mr. Kirkby . 
 Mr. Rigby 
 Mr. Ritson 
 Mr. Leigh 
 Mr. Vaughan 
 Mr. Earle 
 Mr. Shackerley 
 
 Sir Ashton, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Heath 
 Mr. Stanley 
 
 Sir Ireland 
 
 Lord Roos 
 Mr. Locke 
 Mr. Jones 
 Lord Herbert 
 Mr. Morgan 
 
 Sir Roberts 
 
 Lord Richardson 
 
 Sir Hare, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Cory 
 
 Sir Bowles, Bart. 
 
 Sir West 
 
 Lord Willoughby 
 Mr. Story 
 
 Sir Irby 
 
 Mr. HoUis 
 Mr. Montague 
 
 Sir Scroop 
 
 Mr. Stafford 
 
 Mr, Norton 
 
 Sir Thorold, Bart. 
 
 Sir Lake 
 
 Sir Allen 
 
 Sir Warwick 
 
 Sir Everard 
 
 Sir Thompson 
 
 Mr. Horrock 
 
 Sir Farmer, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Palmer 
 
 Sir Fenwick 
 
 Sir Anderson 
 
 Sir Marley 
 
 Sir 
 
 Sir 
 
 Downing 
 
 - Widdrington 
 Mr. Gregg 
 
 Sir Clifton, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Egres 
 Mr. Jay 
 
 Sir Walpole 
 
 Sir Morell 
 
 Sir Coventry 
 
 Sir Doyley 
 
 Sir Appleby 
 
 Mr. Gawdy 
 
 Sir Paxton 
 
 Mr. Steward 
 
 Sir Isham, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Clarke 
 Lord Spencer 
 
 Sir Horrock, Bart. 
 
 Sir Langham 
 
 Mr. Robert Spencer 
 Mr. Noel 
 Mr. Sherard 
 
 Sir Lawley, Bart. 
 
 Sir Tatley 
 
 Mr. Newport 
 
 Mr. Jones 
 
 Sir Whitmore, Bart. 
 
495 
 
 Mr. Bennett 
 Mr. Carleton 
 
 Sir Lyttleton, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Lyttleton 
 Mr. Weld 
 Mr. Stanhope 
 Mr. Pierrepoint 
 
 Sir Hickman, Bart. 
 
 Mr. ClifFson 
 
 •Sir Cope, Bart. 
 
 Sir Lawrence Hyde, son of the Lord Chan- 
 cellor 
 
 Sir Finch, Solicitor-General 
 
 Mr. Cooke 
 Mr. Warwood 
 
 Sir Spencer, Bart. 
 
 Sir Fleetwood 
 
 Sir Holman, Bart. 
 
 Lord Butler, son of the Duke of Ormond 
 
 Sir Berkeley, Bart. 
 
 Sir Portman, Bart. 
 
 Sir Windham 
 
 Mr. Luttrell 
 
 Mr. PhiUips 
 
 Mr. Tint 
 
 Sir Hugh Windham 
 
 Mr. Diraster 
 
 Mr. Windham 
 
 Mr.Mallet 
 
 Mr. Milbourne 
 
 Mr. Waring 
 
 Mr. Ricaut 
 
 Sir Stawell, Knight of the Bath 
 
 Mr. Phillips 
 Mr. Garle 
 Mr. Knight 
 Mr. Hooke 
 Mr. Popham 
 Mr. Prynne 
 Sir Berkeley 
 
 Sir Bridges 
 
 Mr. Smith 
 
 Sir Bennett 
 
 Mr. Bold 
 Mr. Glasscock 
 
 Sir Oglander 
 
 Mr. Whitehead 
 Sir Robert Howard 
 Mr. Phillips 
 
 Sir Barrington, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Wild 
 
 Sir Worsley, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Hulse 
 Mr. Wallop 
 Mr. Hungerford 
 
 Sir Lewis, Bart. 
 
 Sir Bulkeley 
 
 Mr. Mallet 
 Lord St. John 
 
 Sir • Norton 
 
 Mr. Goddard 
 Mr. Legge 
 
 Sir Ford 
 
 Mr. Norton 
 
 Sir Carteret, Gentleman of the Bed- 
 chamber to the King 
 Mr. Ley 
 Mr. Hilyard 
 Mr. Chetwind 
 
 Sir Cockleton 
 
 Mr. Mainwaring 
 Mr. Walton 
 Mr. Swinfen 
 
 Sir Felton, Bart. 
 
 Sir North, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Coke 
 
 Sir Broderick 
 
 Mr. Decres 
 
 Sir Brooke 
 
 Sir Ballard, Bart. 
 
496 
 
 Mr. Appleton 
 Mr. Waldgrave 
 
 Sir Cardell, Bart. 
 
 Sir Trott, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Collins 
 
 Mr. Leigh 
 
 Mr. Egerton, Lieutenant of the Body-guard 
 
 Colonel Lane 
 
 Sir Biddulph 
 
 Mr. Bloodworth 
 Mr. Moth 
 
 Sir Hazard 
 
 Mr. Biscoe 
 Mr. Holland 
 Mr. James 
 
 Sir Onslow 
 
 Mr. Sturges 
 Mr. Oldfield 
 Mr. Evelyn 
 Mr. Morrice 
 Mr. Gresham 
 Mr. Shuter 
 
 Sir Pelham, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Ashburnham 
 Mr. Pickham 
 Mr. Goring 
 
 Sir Govett, Bart. 
 
 Sir Barnardiston 
 
 Mr. Cornwallis 
 
 Sir Bruce 
 
 Sir Pooley 
 
 Sir Duncomb 
 
 Sir Brown 
 
 Sir Bowyer 
 
 Sir Shraggett, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Blacker 
 Mr. Byne 
 Mr. Parsons 
 Mr. Henry Goring 
 Mr. Fagg 
 
 Lord Buckhurst 
 Mr. Vaughan 
 
 Sir "William, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Cowshop 
 Lord Brognall 
 Lord Ainger 
 
 Sir Holt, Bart. 
 
 Sir Pickering, Bart. 
 
 Sir Fisher, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Flexil 
 Mr. Owen 
 Mr. Pickering 
 
 Sir Musgrave, Bart. 
 
 Sir Strickland 
 
 Mr. Home 
 Mr. Lukener 
 Mr: Browne 
 
 Sir Staveley 
 
 Sir Woodcock 
 
 Henry Hyde, son of the Lord Chancellor 
 
 Mr. Seymour 
 
 Mr. Toker 
 
 Mr. S. Wainton 
 
 Sir Nicolas 
 
 Mr. Mompesson 
 Mr. Barley 
 Mr. Buckland 
 Mr. Ellyot 
 
 Sir Seymour 
 
 Sir Herbert 
 
 Sir Berkley 
 
 Mr. Cooper 
 
 Sir Ash 
 
 Sir Jolliffe 
 
 Mr. Leviss 
 Mr. Franklin 
 Mr. Lowe 
 Mr. Tucker 
 Mr. Yorke 
 Mr. Hunts 
 
497 
 
 Mr. Hungerford 
 Mr. Dagiston 
 Mr. Lowther 
 Mr. Dalston 
 
 Sir Speck, Bart. 
 
 Sir Leek, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Washington 
 
 Sir Hungerford, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Evelyn 
 Mr. Stonchouse 
 Mr. Clarke 
 Mr. Gape 
 
 Sir Palmer 
 
 Mr. William Ashburnham 
 
 Sir Denham 
 
 Mr. Nichols 
 
 Sir St. John, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Pleydell 
 Lord Seymour 
 Mr. Daniell 
 
 Sir Pocklington, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Sands 
 
 Sir Rowland Berkeley 
 
 Sir Herbert 
 
 Mr. Streets 
 Mr. Coventry 
 Mr. William Sands 
 Mr. Culme 
 Mr. Day 
 Mr. Gilby 
 
 Sir Catterick, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Morville 
 Mr. Talbot 
 Mr. Stockdale 
 
 Sir Crossland 
 
 Mr. Tomson 
 Mr. Nichols 
 Mr. Buckwell 
 Sir Yorke 
 
 Mr. Craddock 
 
 Sir Appleyard 
 
 Sir Bethel 
 
 Sir Mauleverer, Bart. 
 
 Sir Long 
 
 Sir Danby 
 
 Sir Heblethwaite 
 
 Sir Gore, Bart, 
 
 Sir Ingram, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Strickland 
 
 Sir Snayle, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Vaughan 
 Mr. James Phillips 
 Lord Vaughan 
 
 Sir Goodluck 
 
 Mr. Warton 
 
 Sir Hobham 
 
 Sir Gerrard 
 
 Mr. Dawnay 
 Mr. Waller 
 
 Sir Crisp 
 
 Mr. Finch 
 
 Mr. Richard Spencer 
 
 Mr. Morley 
 
 Sir Knatchbull, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Harvey 
 Mr. Andrews 
 
 Sir Vincent, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Montagu 
 Mr. D' Urban 
 
 Sir Thomas, Bart. 
 
 Sir Dykes 
 
 Mr. Bagnall 
 
 Sir Wynne, Bart. 
 
 Mr. Lacy 
 
 Sir . ■ Price, Bart. 
 
 Lord Vaughan 
 Mr. James Phillips 
 
 Sir Middleton, BarU 
 
 S S 
 
498 
 
 ■ Salisbury, Bart. 
 Conway, Bart» 
 
 Sir- 
 
 Sir- 
 
 Mr. Wortley 
 
 iiord Herbert 
 
 Mr. Henry "Wynne 
 
 Sir Lloyd 
 
 Mr. Laugharne 
 
 Mr. Richard Vaughan 
 
 Mr. Blaney m,,U.a 
 
 Sir Hartgood, Knight of the Batb. 
 
 Of the preceding Gentlemen, two of whom are elected for each province, or 
 county, and are denominated " Parliamentary Knights j" and the Citizens and 
 Burgesses, the same number of whom are returned by the different cities and 
 towns of the provinces who are entitled to have a seat or vote in Parliament, and 
 have the appellation of " Parliamentary Deputies ;" is formed the Lower House, 
 or House of Commons : and the following is a List of the Counties, and the 
 the respective Cities or Towns who possess that privilege. 
 
 Keni. 
 
 Canterbury, Rochester, Maidstone, Queen- 
 borough. 
 
 Sussex. 
 Chichester, Horsham, Arundel, Lewes, 
 Bramber, Steyning, Shoreham, Mid- 
 hurst, East Grinstead. 
 
 Surrey. 
 Southwark, Bletchingtey, Guilford, Gatton, 
 Reigate, Haslemere. 
 
 Hants, or Hampshire. 
 Winchester, Southampton, Portsmouth, 
 Newport, Yarmouth, Petersfield, Stock- 
 bridge, Christ Church, Whitchurch, 
 Lymington, Andover. 
 
 Dorset. 
 Dorchester, Weymouth, Poole, Bridport, 
 Shaftesbury, Wareham, Lyme, Mel- 
 combe, Corfe. 
 
 Devon. 
 
 Exeter, Plympton, Totness, Plymouth, 
 Dartmouth, Barnstaple, Oakhampton, 
 Tiverton, Honiton, Tavistock, Ashbur- 
 ton, Beeralston. 
 
 Comisoall. 
 
 Newport, Helstone, Grampound, Liskeard, 
 Bodmin, Truro, Lestwithiel, Saltash, 
 West Looe, Tregony, Camelford, Pen- 
 ryn, Bossiney, East Looe, St. Ives, St. 
 Germain's, St. Michael's, St. Mawe's, 
 Callington, Fowey. 
 
 Somerset. 
 Bristol, Bath, Wells, Taunton, Bridgewater, 
 Ilchester, Milbourn, Minehead. 
 
 Wilts. 
 Salisbury, Wilton, Malmesbury, Chippen- 
 ham, Downton, Heytesbury, Westbury, 
 Calne, Marlborough, Wotton Basset, 
 Devizes, Cricklade, Bedwiu, Ludgers^ 
 hall, Old Sarum, Hindon. 
 
499 
 
 Bercheria, or Berkshire. 
 
 Windsor, Reading, Wallingford, Abing- 
 don. 
 
 Middle Essex, or Middlesex. 
 London, the metropolis of the kingdom, 
 Westminster. 
 
 Essex. 
 Colchester, Harwich, Maiden. 
 
 Sufolk. 
 Ipswich, Dunwich, Sudbury, Orford, Alde- 
 burgh, St. Edmund's Bury, Had- 
 leigh. 
 
 Norfolk. 
 Norwich, Yarmouth, Castle-Rising, Lynn, 
 Thetford. 
 
 Cambridge. 
 Cambridge. 
 
 Heitford. 
 Hertford, St Alban's. 
 
 Bedford. 
 Bedford. 
 
 Buckingham. 
 
 Aylesbur}', Marlow, Wendover. 
 
 Oxford. 
 Oxford, Woodstock, B inbury. 
 
 Gloucester. 
 Gloucester, Cirencester, Tewkesbury. 
 
 Hereford. 
 Hereford, Leominster, Weobly. 
 
 Worcester. 
 Worcester, Droitwich, Bewdley, Eve- 
 sham. 
 
 Warmiclc. 
 Coventry, Warwick. 
 
 Northampton. 
 Northampton, Peterborough, Higham, 
 Brackley. 
 
 Huntingdon. 
 
 Rutland. 
 
 Leicester. 
 
 Huntingdon. 
 
 Rutland, 
 
 Leicester. 
 
 Lincoln. 
 Lincoln, Stamford, Grantham, Boston, 
 Grimsby. 
 
 Derby. 
 
 Derby. 
 
 Stafford. 
 
 Stafford, Litchfield, Newcastle-under-Line, 
 Tamworth. 
 
 Salop, or Shropshire. 
 Shrewsbury, Bishop's Castle, Ludlow^ 
 Bridgnorth, Wenlock. 
 
 Chester, or Cheshire. 
 
 Chester. 
 
 Ijancaster. 
 Lancaster, Liverpool, Wigan, Preston, 
 Clitheroe, Newton. 
 
 York. 
 
 York, Boroughbridge, Scarborough, Rich- 
 mond, Pontefract, Knaresborough, Be- 
 verley, Thirsk, Aldborough, Heydon, 
 Rippon, Kingston-upon-Hull. , 
 
 3 S 2 
 
500 
 
 Nottingham. 
 
 
 Monmouth. 
 
 Nottingham, East Retford. 
 
 Monmouth. 
 
 
 Westmojiand. 
 Appleby. 
 
 Brecknock. 
 
 Breclmock. 
 
 Cumberland. 
 Carlisle. 
 
 Radnor. 
 
 Radnor. 
 
 Northumberland. 
 
 Cardigan. 
 
 Cardigan. 
 
 Newcastle, Morpeth, Berwick. 
 
 Wales. 
 
 Montgomery. 
 
 Montgomery 
 
 Anglesey. 
 
 Merioneth. 
 
 Merioneth. 
 
 Pembrohe. 
 
 
 
 Pembroke, Haverfordwest. 
 
 Denbigh. 
 
 Denbigh. 
 
 Carmarthen. 
 
 
 Flint. 
 
 Carmarthen. 
 
 Flint. 
 
 
 Glamorgan. 
 
 
 Carnarvon. 
 
 Cardiff. 
 
 Carnarvon. 
 
 
 The following places have also the privilege of nominating Parliamentary 
 
 Deputies :— 
 
 Hastings 
 Sandwich 
 Romney 
 Hythe 
 
 Winchelsea 
 
 Rye 
 
 Dover. 
 
 When the Parliament is to be summoned (during the intervals of whose sit- 
 tings it is said to be adjourned, or terminated, at the king's pleasure), despatches 
 are expedited to the lords and peers of the realm, individually, in the king's 
 name, and in the following style : — 
 
 CAROLUS, Dei gratia, etc. 
 
 Reverendissimo in Christo Patri, to the Bishops ^ 
 
501 
 
 Consanguineo nostro, to Dukes, Marquisses, and Earls: 
 Delecto et Fideli nostro, to Barons: 
 
 Quia advisamento Concilii nostri, pro quibusdam arduis et urgentibus nego- 
 tiis, nos et statum, et defensionem regni nostri Angliae et Ecclesiae Anglicanae 
 concernentibus, quoddam Parlamentum nostrum ad Westmonasteriura teneri 
 ordinavimus, et ibidem vobiscum et cum cajteris praelatis, magnatibus, et proceri- 
 bus dicti regni nostri Angliae colloquium habere et tractatum; vobis in fide et 
 dilectione [writing to tJie bishops'} per fidem et allegiantiam [writing to tJie peers} 
 quibus nobis tenemini firmiter injungendo mandamus, quod consideratis dictorum 
 negotiorum arduitate et periculis imminentibus, cessante quacunque excusa- 
 tione, die et loco dictis personaliter intersitis nobiscum cum caeteris praelatis, 
 magnatibus, et proceribus superdictis negotiis tractaturi, vestrumque consilium 
 impensuri, et hoc sicut nos, et honorem nostrum ac salutem regni praedicti et 
 Ecclesiae Sanctae expeditionemque dictorum negotiorum diligitis nullatenus omit- 
 tatis [writing to the bishops'] praemonere decanum, et capitulum Ecclesiae vestras 
 totumque clerum vestraj dioceseos quod idem decanus et arcidiaconus in propriis 
 personis ac dictum capitulum per unum idemque clerus per duos procuratores 
 idoneos, plenam et sufficientem potestatem ab ipsis capitulo et clero habentes, 
 praedictis die et loco, personaliter intersint, ad consentiendum his, quae tum ibi- 
 dem de communi consilio regni nostri (divind favente dementia) contigerit 
 ordinari. 
 
 Teste me ipso, etc. 
 
 And to the "Viscounts (Sheriffs) and Presidents (Mayors) of the cities and 
 towns of each county or province, an order is sent from the Crown Office for the 
 election of Knights and Parliamentary Deputies, couched in the following 
 terms: — 
 
 REX Vicecomiti salutem, etc. 
 
 Quia de advisamento et assensu Concilii nostri, etc. [proceeding in the same 
 form as the foregoing despatch} et ibidem cum praelatis, magnatibus, et proceribus 
 regni nostri colloquium habere, et tractatum ; tibi praecipimus firmiter injungentes 
 quod facta proclamationc in comitatu tuo, post receptionem hujus brevis nostri, 
 Parlamenti tenendi die et loco prajdictis, duos milites gladiis cinctos, magis ido- 
 neos et discretos comitatus praedicti, et de qualibet civitate comitatus illius duos 
 cives, et de qualibet burgo, duos burgenses de discretioribus et magis sufficienti- 
 
503 
 
 bus, libere et indifferenier per illos qui eleciiorii huic interfuerlnt, juxta forraani 
 statutorum, inde et dictorum et provisorum eligi, et nomine eorundem militum, 
 civium, et burgensium, in quibusdam indenturis inter te et illos, qui hujusmodi 
 electioni interfuerint conficiendis, sive hujusmodi electi praesentes fuerint, sive 
 absentes, inseri, eosque ad dictum diem et locum venire facias; ita quod iidem 
 milites plena et sufficiente potestate pro se et comraunitate praedicti comitatus, 
 ac dicti cives et burgenses pro se et communitatibus civitatum et burgorum prse- 
 dictorum divisim ab ipsis habeant ad faciendum, et consentiendum his, quae cum 
 ibidem de communi consilio regni nostri (favente Deo) contigerit ordinari super 
 negotiis ante dictis ita ne pro defectu potestatis hujusmodi, seu propter impro- 
 vidam electionem militum, civium aut burgensium praedictorum, praedicta negotia 
 infecta maneant quovis modo nolumus tamen quod tu, nee aliquis alius vicecoraes 
 dicti regni nostri, aliqualiter sit electus, etc. 
 
 On the first day of the opening of Parliament, the king, having first attended 
 the ceremonies of the church, repairs to the House in great pomp, clad in the 
 royal ornaments; the peers and lords of the kingdom enter along with his majesty, 
 drest in magnificent scarlet robes, in the shape of a cloak, richly adorned with 
 gold, with long trains, and with garnitures of skin, which, beginning at the collar 
 and running round the neck, reach down to the ground; they wear by their sides a 
 large gilded sword, and upon their heads a round cap of red velvet, resembUng in 
 shape those that are worn in the Diets by the Electors of the empire; these caps 
 are trimmed up with ermine, and surrounded by the coronet designating the rank 
 of the individual. The number of peers, therefore, and the splendor of their 
 dresses, make a very showy appearance. The king having thus made his solemn 
 entrance into the Upper House, ascends the throne, and the lords and peers of 
 Parliament seat themselves in order in their places, on benches covered with scarlet; 
 some of the latter are Catholics, upon whom this privilege has been conferred by 
 tlie king, though they are disqualified for any other charge or ofiice. In the mean 
 time the names of the peers who are present are written down, and the proxies 
 of those who, having legitimate grounds of absence, depute others to sit in Par- 
 liament in their names, they enjoying the privilege of appointing deputies, which 
 is refused to the members of the Lower House. Those who are present are alone 
 admitted to the business of Parliament ; and those who do not arrive in time are 
 excluded from voting ; and while the list is making out in the Upper House, in 
 "the Lower House, where are assembled the knights, citizens, and burgesses. 
 
503 
 
 dfeputiea tb Parliament, the name of each Is noted down, and that of the province, 
 city, or town for which they are respectively returned j and they are made to take 
 the following oath, called the 
 
 =«>-*' OATH OF ALLEGIANCE. 
 
 Fidem et veram allegiantiam servabo Carolo, Dei gratis Anglise, &c. Regi, 
 heredibus, successoribusque suis, eum et illos defendam ad extremum virium, et 
 vitsB, et fortunarura cum dispendio, contra omnes conspirationes, et conatus ad- 
 versus personam ejus, coronam, et dignitatem. 
 
 To this oath, for the purpose of further confirming the subjection which 
 every member of Parliament owes to the sovereign authority of the king, they 
 cause another to be added, which they call the 
 
 OATH OF SUPREMACY. 
 
 Ego N. conscientid mea testificante, profiteor atque denuncio Majestatem 
 Regiam solam esse summam moderatricem hujus regni; aliarumque ditionum 
 sibi subjectarum, nee non omnium tam personarum quam rerum, tarn ccclesiasti- 
 carum quam civilium, adeoque nullum exterum, sive principem, sive pontificem, 
 sive statum, sive potestatem, vel habere in hoc regno, vel habere oportere uUam 
 omnino jurisdictionem, potestatem, celsitudinem, praeeminentiam, auctoritatem, 
 vel ecclesiasticam vel civilem. Itaque palam et aperte rejicio, atque repudio 
 quascumque peregrinas jurisdictiones, potestates, celsitudines, praeeminentias, ac 
 auctoritates-, sancteque recipio me Regiae Majestati, ejusque haeredibus legitimis- 
 que successoribus, debitam fidem et observantiam perpetuo pr£Bstiturum, et 
 (quantum in me fuerit) propugnaturum et defensurum omnes et omnimodas juris-i 
 dictiones, privilegia, praeeminentias, et auctoritates quascunque, vel concessas vel 
 commendatas Regia; Majestati, ejusque hjeredibus et successoribus, vel imperiali 
 hujus regni diademati conjunctas, et annexas, etc. Spondeo insuper non credere 
 me Papam vel uUam aliam potestatem posse de jure Regem dejicere, vel ab obli- 
 gatione istius juraraenti me absolvere- 
 
 Having taken the oaths, they proceed to the election of the speaker or am- 
 bassador. He, accompanied by the members of Parliament, who remain standing 
 on the outside of the bar which separates them from the Upper House, appears in 
 
504 
 
 the name of the Commons in the presence of the king and peers, praying for the 
 preservation of the privileges, exemptions, and immunities of the Lower House, 
 for the liberty of discussing freely the business proposed for their consideration 
 without displeasing the king and without fear of punishment, and also the right 
 of appealing to his Majesty and the Upper House on any contingency that may 
 arise. To these solicitations the king replies through the medium of his Chan-, 
 cellor ; after which he explains in a short discourse all the motives that have in- 
 duced him to convoke the Parliament (which are for the most part to raise money 
 on pretence of war, or for the equipment of maritime expeditions), being convinced 
 of their affection and fidelity, and of their dispositions to lend their advice and 
 assistance for the maintenance of the common weal. 
 
 The whole day having been spent in these preliminaries, they put off the 
 affairs under discussion to the following sitting, at which the king is not present, 
 he only attending at its opening and its termination. 
 
 In the dehberations of the Upper House, the parliamentary reader, an officer 
 under the Chancellor, whose business it is, writes down the substance of the 
 business which he proposes to the senate for discussion; and on its consenting 
 that a poll should take place, the law is submitted for approbation or rejection, 
 which is decided by the majority of votes, and, if approved, the Upper House 
 refers it to the Commons in the following rescript — " Soit Balk aux Communs." 
 
 The orator, or proxy, being introduced into the Lower House in the name 
 of the Upper House, states accurately the nature of the business, and the opinion 
 of the peers, that it ought to be passed into a law, provided the opinion of the 
 Commons be to the same effect. 
 
 In the discussion of business, it is competent to every one to speak for or 
 against the proposed law, assigning his reason for so doing ; and if his opinion is 
 impugned by any one, he is not permitted to reply that day, to avoid entering 
 into useless controversies, and also that time may be given him to deliberate 
 whether he will persist in his own opinion, in spite of the arguments brought 
 against him, or give it up. 
 
 The business being brought to the poll in the House of Commons, the 
 Speaker orders that whoever approves or disapproves should express his opinion 
 intelligibly ; and then they who are for the affirmative say with a loud voice, 
 " Aye," and those who are against it, " No ;" and to ascertain which of the two 
 parties is superior, the Speaker makes those who are for it stand up, those on the 
 opposite side remaining in their places seated. 
 
 Both Houses have the power of proposing what they conceive to be for the 
 
505 
 
 public good, and to discuss and decide upon matters brought before them by the 
 king, and upon the enactment or repeal of laws. These having been duly can- 
 vassed, and approved of by a majority of votes, the Upper House writes on the 
 top of the leaf on which the law stands registered, " The Lords have assented j" 
 and the House of Commons, also consenting, writes, " The Commons have as- 
 sented :" but when the two Houses do not concur in the same opinion, they 
 either meet together, or elect some of the principal members of each House to 
 canvass the business in question. On these occasions the Commons stand and are 
 uncovered, and the Lords sit and are covered ; and when the opinions of both 
 Houses have been laid before them, and they still do not agree, but persist, as 
 ti-equently happens, the law is rejected, the consent of both Houses and of the 
 king, or queen, being necessary for the ratification of any resolution of Parliament; 
 but, if they agree together, the law is transmitted to the king, or to the queen, who, 
 approving it, writes underneath in French, following herein the custom of the 
 Norman kings : " Le Roi le veut" or " La Reyne le veut." Being thus confirmed, 
 tlie law is in full effect, and is afterwards published as such for the observation of 
 the people; but if the king rejects it, he writes on the top of the leaf, " Le Roi 
 i'avisera" which is as much as to say, the king disapproves the law. 
 
 Notwithstanding the balance formed by the Parliament to the authority of 
 the king, which it confines to such an extent, that he cannot imprison any one 
 without the advice of two judges (justices of the peace) belonging to the parish 
 (district) of the accused person ; and these, incase of his eventually being found 
 innocent by the higher tribunals, are, by the laws of the kingdom, condemned to 
 pay three pounds sterling per hour all the time that he is imprisoned ; yet, it is 
 not limited in matters of war, alliance, or peace, with the enemies of the kingdom, 
 he being able to act in these matters without in any degree submitting his opinion 
 to Parliament. 
 
 Both the House of Peers and that of the Commons respectively enjoy parti- 
 cular privileges and exemptions. The first has the power not only of advising 
 and co-operating in the enactment of laws, but also of judging. While the Par- 
 liament lasts, the lords and the necessary servants of the House cannot be arrested 
 for debt, or for any offence, except murder, breaking the peace, and felony, the 
 cognizance of which belongs to a deputation of members from their own body, 
 taken in conjunction with a constable, who is elected for this purpose, and pre- 
 sides at their discussions, hears the opinion of the judges, and has the casting vote ; 
 and when the process against the accused is finished, and judgment given, the 
 
 3 T 
 
506 
 
 constable breaks his white rod, or wand, as a sign that his jurisdiction is at 
 an end. 
 
 The House of Commons, besides participating in the same immunity for 
 their persons, and those of their servants, has the privilege of canvassing and 
 deciding on the imposts to be laid upon the people, and at the same time claims 
 the privilege of being a judge over its own members, even to the extent of im- 
 prisonment and fine ; but it is prohibited, by the ancient customs of the kingdom, 
 from passing sentence in, and even from instituting more serious criminal pro- 
 cesses, these being reserved for the decision of the Royal Court (Court of King's 
 Bench). And these privileges are preserved to them with the greatest scrupu- 
 losity, in order to render them courageous in speaking and exempt from fear, 
 it being on this account forbidden both to the Lords of the Upper and to the 
 Deputies of the Lower House to carry arms either secretly or openly against the 
 Parliament ; in the environs of which it is prohibited to all persons, under heavy 
 penalties, to walk about armed. 
 
 Although the High Court of Parliament possess the power of determining 
 the modes of administering justice throughout the kingdom, and of deciding 
 what laws are to be observed, it nevertheless does not in any respect interfere in 
 Sacred things, and those which concern religion. These are referred by the king 
 to the Synod, which is composed of the deans, archdeacons, the proxies of the 
 Chapters, and of two deputies for each diocese, who, assembling in the place ap- 
 pointed for this purpose, and having previously elected a speaker from among 
 themselves, discuss matters relating to religious ceremonies ; and whatever con- 
 cerns the spiritual government of that Church, which, having been separated by 
 the schism from the Catholics, they improperly call the Church of England j and 
 these levy contributions, for the advantage of the Commonwealth, upon the clergy 
 of the kingdom. 
 
B 
 
 LIST OF THE PRIVY COUNCIL. 
 
 The Duke of York 
 
 Prince Robert 
 
 The Archbishop of Canterbury 
 
 Lord Roberts, Lord Privy Seal 
 
 Sir Bridgeman, Keeper of the Great 
 
 Seal, and President of the High 
 
 Court of Chancery 
 The Duke of Buckingham 
 The Duke of Ormond 
 The Earl of Ossory 
 The Duke of Albemarle, Commander in 
 
 Chief 
 The Marquis of Dorchester 
 The Earl of Manchester 
 The Earl of Leicester 
 The Earl of Berkshire 
 The Earl of Bath 
 
 Lord Rothes, Commissary of Scotland 
 The Earl of Carlisle 
 The Earl of Carberry 
 The Bishop of London 
 Lord Newport, Comptroller of the Royal 
 
 Household 
 
 Lord Ashley 
 
 Sir Carteret 
 
 Sir Ircon, Secretary of State 
 
 Sir Ingram 
 
 Sir Duncomb 
 
 The Earl of Lindsey 
 
 The Earl of Bridgewater 
 
 The Earl of St. Alban's 
 
 The Earl of Sandwich 
 
 The Earl of Anglesey 
 
 The Earl of Lauderdale 
 
 Lord Middleton 
 
 The Earl of Craven 
 
 The Earl of Orrery 
 
 Lord Arlington, Secretarj' of State 
 
 Lord Hatton 
 
 Lord Berkeley 
 
 Lord Holt 
 
 Sir Clifford 
 
 Sir Nicholas 
 
 Sir Morrice 
 
 Sir Coventry 
 
 THE END. 
 
 S. WOOOrAIX, rUKTEA, AMOSL COCBT, IKIKNZB STESET, LOVOOtl. 
 
DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER. 
 
 1 Portraitof Cosmo TIL, fo^ce 
 
 the Title. 
 
 2 Kynsale to face page 100 
 
 S Stell Maria 112 
 
 4 Plimovthe 116 
 
 5 Okehampton 127 
 
 6 Exester 128 
 
 7 Axminster 139 
 
 8 Georgington, or Hinton Saint 
 
 George 140 
 
 9 The Maiden Castle 144 
 
 10 Dorchester 146 
 
 11 Salesburye 148 
 
 12 Wilton 150 
 
 13 Sutton 156 
 
 14 Basingstoke 157 
 
 15 Okestead 158 
 
 16 Eggam 159 
 
 17 Brentford l6l 
 
 18 View of London and West- 
 
 minster 163 
 
 19 Epping 201 
 
 20 Bishops Stortford 202 
 
 21 Audley End (distant view)... 203 
 
 22 (entrance) ib. 
 
 23 (inner court) 204 
 
 24 New Market 218 
 
 25 Cambridge 220 
 
 26 Northampton 245 
 
 27 Althorpe 248 
 
 28 Brackley 250 
 
 29 Oxford 251 
 
 30 Bellingesbere 277 
 
 31 Windsor Castle 281 
 
 32 Hampton Court 330 
 
 S3 Rochester 360 
 
 34 White Hall 367 
 
 35 Thorndon 4^SM^\> 
 
 3G Chelmesford 466 
 
 37 Newhall 468 
 
 38 Colchester 472 
 
 39 Ipsuiche, or Ipswiche 473 
 
 40 Harwich 474 
 
'*"' 
 
 
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