&/n/-.rT ,',;. r Chapter III. . ;f..-~. M.-jfrr.Rr.trF Page Slam. — Interpreter arrives. — Requested to land the Guns.— Entertained by a Chief. — Physiological remarks '' -Slit on the Siamese. — Progress to Bankok. — A floating ' Bazar. — Bankok described. — The Governor General's Letter to the King delivered to a Chief. — A suspicious Attempt made to get Possession of the Presents. — Inter- ' view Avith one of the Ministers. — Disgusting Servility '^- of his Attendants. — Negotiations respecting the Per- formance of the Court Ceremonies. — Proceed to the " Palace. — Addressed in good Latin by a Native. — Ob- '^"^ servations on the Road to the Audience.— Description ■ ->X of the Audience ..,«.,. 103 |s§c; Chapter IV. White Elephants and White Monkies. — Taste of the Siamese. — Brahmans and Hinduism in Siam. — Library of the Temple. — Enormous Guns. — Trade of Siam a Royal Monopoly. — Chinese Emigrants — Sugar. — Sia- mese Policy respecting Trade. — Policy of the Ultra Gangetic Nations. — An Embassy arrives from Cochin China. — Procession of Royal Barges of Siam to receive "! it. — Siamese Music. — Reflections on the Result of the Mission 150 , 1)'-' '-J 1 ;>:,''- ' iv-'d'^-'hr Chapter V. Interview with Prince Chroma Chit. — Mr. Finlayson "^ called upon to visit a case of Cholera in the Palace.--i '^""^ Mission not visited by any Persons of Respectability. — Parties at the Court of Bankok.— Nothing granted in favour of Commerce.— -Agent to the Governor GeneraF'^ ^ leaves without an audience. — Bankok ; the DwellingS*^^'^^ mostly Floating Rafts. — Inhabitants mostly Chinese.-^'"' '^^ Manufactwres MISSION TO SIAM rest of the boat being entirely occupied by the rowers, often to the number of forty or fifty. The procession moved in the following order : Four long boats in front, with numerous rowers, dressed in red jackets, and wearing tall conical caps of the same colour. These boats were covered with a light awning of mats. Six richly-ornamented boats, with gilded cano- pies, in the form of a dome, and richly carved. In these were the assistants and suite of the ambassador. Each boat carried two small brass swivels in front ; the men Were dressed as in the former. About forty rowers were in each boat. A very handsome, richly-ornamented barge, with a gilt canopy of a conical shape, and rich curtains ; in which was the ambassador, bearing the letter from the King of Cochin China. Four or six boats similar to those in front. In the course of a few days after his arrival at Bankok, he was admitted to an audience of the king, without going through those forms which had been pointed out as necessary to be ob- served by the Agent to the Governor General. The Cochin- Chinese ambassador neither visited the Prince Chroma- Chit, nor his deputy the Pra-Klang, Suri-Wong, before he had obtained an audience of the king. His first, and public interview with the king is AND COCHIN CHINA. 183 said to have been friendly and somewhat fami- liar. No business is ever transacted on such occasions. The king, seated under a rich ca- nopy, received the ambassador in the hall of audience, according to his more usual custom. The ambassador was carried to the palace by his own followers in a palanquin, preceded by a number of armed men. He got out of his ve- hicle at the inner gate, and walking up to the hall of audience, without laying aside his shoes, took his seat in the place allotted to him, taking his own interpreter along with him. Although no business was transacted, the in- terview lasted for a considerable time. The hall, as on the occasion of our introduction at court, was crowded with persons of various rank. On the 20fA, the ambassador paid his first visit to the Pra-klang, on which occasion we had an opportunity of seeing him and his suite, our chambers being so situated as to afford a view of all that passed during the interview. The Siamese choose the early part of the night to -pay their visits. The Pra-klang, on this occa- sion, had lighted his rooms in the handsomest style, and had disposed of his gayest furniture with all the taste he was master of A new carpet and cushion were produced for his own use, while the old one was abandoned to his visi- tor, who was also to occupy the place the chief 184 MISSION TO SIAM was wont to recline on during visits, the latter retiring to a more distant part of the room. All the servants and retainers of the chief were summoned to attend on this important occa- sion, and now lay prostrate on the floor, like so many inanimate images, at one end of the room, in a double row. A number of lights were placed outside, and persons bearing torches were posted from the bank of the river to the house. It was evident that the Pra-klang was anxious to make as great display as possible before the stranger, and though the taste exhibited through- out, and more particularly in the too profuse de- corations of the room, were widely different from what we are accustomed to admire, yet it must be admitted that the effect produced was alto- gether surprising, and far beyond what we could have anticipated from a people unquestionably very rude in many of the arts of civilized life. It deserves to be mentioned, however, that the glass manufacturer of Europe had contributed not a little towards this display. The ambassador seemed little inclined to abate one jot of his dignity on this occasion. Afler keeping the anxious chief and his bustling at- tendants in suspense for several hours, he at length appeared with twenty or thirty attendants, and some persons bearing presents in boxes. The ambassador was rather an elderly man. AND COCHIN CHINA. 185 below the middle stature, of a thin, lanky, and spare habit, with sharp eyes and sunk cheeks. He was remarkably fair for an Asiatic. He wore on his head a piece of black crape, loosely rolled into the form of a turban. He had on a loose gown, with wide sleeves, of the same ma- terial and colour as his turban, and both he and his suite were habited in black. Several chobs were carried before him, and three black um- brellas were held over him. A few menials were dressed in jackets of coarse red cloth and coni- cal caps, surmounted by a plume of red hair. The address of the ambassador was both dis- nified and easy. He stood on the threshold for an instant, surveying the room, regardless of the chief, and advanced to the carpet in the centre of the place. He here made a slight salutation by raising his right hand towards his face. His interpreter and a few others seated themselves by him. Sweetmeats were now introduced, and after the lapse of an hour or so, they parted. On the I7ih Mm/, the noisy ceremony called Khon-chook terminated, on which occasion the English and Portuguese in the place, consisting of Mr. Crawfurd and suite, Mr. de Sylveira, the Portuguese consul, and his secretary Mr. Bap- tiste. Captain M'Donnell of the John Adam and two of his mates, Captain Smith and Mr. Storm of the brig Phoenix, and two Portuguese from tm MISSION TO SIAM Macao, were invited by the Pra-klang to a din- ner prepared in the European fashion. I have before remarked that it is an invariable and very ancient custom amongst the Siamese to preserve a lock of hair on the forehead of their children, which is guarded intact until a certain period of their age, when it is cut with great ceremony. The ceremony is called Khon-chook, and takes place at the llth, 13th, or 15th year of age, according to the inclination of the pa- Tents. It is a time of great festivity and shew. The relations and friends of the family make presents according to the extent of their ability ; the priests are frequently assembled to say prayers ; are fed and presented with new robes of yellow cloth, that being the only colour they are permitted to wear. Different bands of na- tional music are assembled, and the festivities are kept up with unceasing attention for the space of five days. On this occasion, the eldest, and favourite son of the Pra-klang, a puny, sickly, but intelligent boy, had attained the pro- per age for the performance of this ceremony. The rank and situation of the father was such as to command a very bountiful supply of presents. Of these we may instance that of the Prince Chroma-chit, who is said to have given four cat- ties of silver, equal to 240 ticals, and that of the Agent to the Governor General, who gave five. AND COCHIN CHINA. IW The tical is somewhat less than a third more in value than a rupee. This ceremony would appear to be more agreeable to the tenets and practice of the Hin- du than of the Bauddhic religion. The priests of the latter took no farther interest in it than to repeat certain prayers at particular periods, whilst the tonsure is, in fact, performed by a Brahman, with great ceremony, and an affectation of mystery, after he had repeated a set of unin- telligible prayers. A few Brahmans are main- tained in the country for the due performance of this particular ceremony. The Siamese enter- tain considerable respect for the professors of the Hindu faith. It is not to be expected however that Brahmans so situated, exiled from the soil which originated and cherished their faith, would long preserve its tenets in purity. The pray- ers of the priests of Buddha were repeated by several persons at once, in a sort of recitative style, and, as usual, in the Pali or sacred text, a language altogether unintelligible to the vulgar, and but imperfectly understood even by the greater number of priests. The multitude listen to these prayers with the most perfect indiffer- ence. They neither observe decorum nor re- spect on such occasions, each seeming by his conduct to imply that this was a business which touched him little, either as regards this world or 188 MISSION TO SI AM the next. Even in the temple, their respect for the sanctity of the place, which the presence of their idols might be supposed to command, is but little observable. Both priests and laymen are often seen squatted on the pavement playing at chess, and other games of chance, before the shrines of the gods. Several of the best bands of music were as- sembled on this occasion, and relieved each other in succession. One of these consisted of female performers only ; the others of male per- formers, whose music was occasionally inter- spersed with the plaintive notes of a female voice. The difference of the several bands consisted chiefly in the greater or less power, or body of the music, if I may so express it ; the softest and most pleasing being that of the female band. The Siamese are naturally very fond of music, and even persons of rank think it no disparage- ment to acquire a proficiency in the art. This music is for the most part extremely lively, and more pleasing to the ear of an European, than the want of proficiency in the more useful arts of civilized life would lead him to expect of such a nation. Whence this proficiency has arisen may be somewhat difficult to explain, more espe- cially as the character of their music partakes but little of that eccentricity of genius and apparent heaviness of mind and imagination, for AND COCHIN CHINA. 18d which they are, in other respects, so remarkable. We have no means of ascertaining what is of domestic origin, or how much they may be in- debted to foreign intercourse for the improvement of their music. On inquiry we were told that the principal instruments were of Barman, Pegu, or Cliinese origin, and that much of the music had been borrowed from the two first mentioned nations, particularly from Pegu. It is somewhat singular that these nations again consider the Siamese as superior in mu- sical skill, and attribute to the latter the inven- tion of the principal instruments, as may be seen in Colonel Symes's account of those countries. It might be supposed that the Siamese had borrowed their music from the same source that they have their religion, the softness, the playful sweetness and simplicity of the former seeming to harmonize in some degree with the humane tenets, the strict morality and apparent innocence of the latter. The prominent and lead- ing character, however, of the music, appears to be common to the Malays, and other inhabitants of the Indian islands, as well as to the whole of the Indo Chinese nations. My friend Captain Dangerfield, himself an adept in musical science, remarks, that the music of the Siamese differs from that of all barbarous tribes, in being played upon a different key — on IflO MISSION TO SI AM that, if I understand him right, which charac- terizes the pathetic music of certain European nations. There is certainly no harsh or dis- agreeable sound, no sudden or unexpected transition, no grating sharpness in their music. Its principal character is that of being soft, lively^ sweet, and cheerful, to a degree, which seemed to us quite surprising. They have arrived beyond the point of being pleased with mere sound — the musician aimed at far higher views, that of interesting the feelings, awakening thought, or exciting the passions. Accordingly they have their different kinds of music, to which they have recourse according as they wish to produce one or other of these effects. Their pieces of music are very numerous. A performer of some notoriety, who exhibited be- fore us, stated that he knew one hundred and fifty tunes. This man brought with him two instruments, the one a wind, the other a stringed instrument. The former, called klani, resembled a flageolet, as well in form as in the tones, which however, were fuller, softer, and louder, than those of that instrument. His manner of blowing on it resembled that of a person using the blow- pipe. He was thus enabled to keep up an unin- terrupted series of notes. The other, a more curious, as well as more agreeable instrument, is called tuk-kay, from its AND COCHIN CHINA. 191 fancied resemblance to a lizard, though in point of form, to me it appears to approach nearer to that of a Chinese junk. It is about three feet long, has a hollow body, and three large sounding holes on the back, which is of a rounded form. It is composed of pieces of hard wood, inlaid with mother-of-pearl. Three strings, one of brass wire, the others of silk, supported on small bits of wood^ extend from one end of the instrument to the other, and are tuned by means of long pegs. The performer pressing his left hand on the cords, strikes them at proper distances, with the fore-finger of the right. There is another instrument, called khong- nong *, the music of which is also very pleasant. It consists of a series of small cymbals of diffe- rent sizes, suspended horizontally in a bamboo frame, forming a large segment of a circle. It is sometimes so large, that the performer may sit within the circle of the instrument, his back being then turned to the vacant space. The tones of this instrument are very pleasing. It is usually accompanied by the instrument called ran-nan ; this is formed of flat bars of wood, about a foot in length, and an inch in breadth, placed by the side of each other, and disposed so as to form an arch, the convexity of which is downwards. Both this and the last-mentioned * See R.^FFLEs' Java, Vol, 1. 470. 192 MISSION TO SIAM instrument are struck with a light piece of wood, or a small mallet. The task were more tedious than useful or entertaining to enumerate all the musical instru- ments used by the Siamese. They have herein displayed much ingenuity, and no inconsiderable proficiency, combining various instruments so as to produce a very pleasing effect. In conclusion, we may observe, that there is a very remarkable difference between the character of their vocal and instrumental music, the former being as plaintive and melancholy, as the latter is lively and playful. 20th May, 1822.— Though but little of an agreeable or satisfactory nature has occcured respecting the commercial or political objects of the mission since our arrival, it seems proper that we should here take a brief and cursory view of these transactions. As the subject was un- avoidably rendered one of public notoriety, and often became matter of conversation between Captain Dangerfield and the Agent to the Gover- nor General, occasionally even at the table of the latter, it became no very difficult matter to gain some insight into the affair ; I mean that persons who, like myself, were unconnected with politi- cal and commercial matters, could thus become in some degree acquainted with what was going forward : the more so, as the Portuguese of the AND COCHIN CHfNA. 193 place, and the captains and officers of the two English ships in the river were favourably situ- ated for acquiring the fullest information on the subject. From these sources my information has been principally drawn. o 194 MISSfON TO SIAM CHAPTER V. ISTKRVIEW WITH THR PrA-KlANG. — ^]Mr. FiNLAYSON CALLRD lIPO>f TO VISIT A CASE OF ChoLERA IN THE PaLACE. — MIS- SION NOT VISITED BY ANY PERSONS OP RESPECTABILITY. — ■ Parties AT the Court of Bankok. — Nothing granted in FAVOUR cFCo:\mERCE. — Agent to the Governor General leaves WITHOtTT AN AUDIENCE. — BaNKOK, THE DWELLINGS MOSTLY Floating Rafts. Inhabitants mostly Chinese. Manufactures of Tin, Leather, Cast-Iron Vessels. — Balachang. — Siamese eat Flesh, but do not kill. Palaces and Temples, or Prachadis of Bankok. — Images OP Buddha excessively numerous. — Analogies between the Pyramid of Egypt and the Bauddhic Dagoba. It has already been mentioned that the Agent to the Governor General had visited the Prince Chroma-Chit, previously to his introduction to the king. On that occasion, however, neither poli- tical nor commercial matters were so much as touched upon, as will be seen by reference to the account of the interview given by Lieu- tenant Rutherfurd, the prince having merely observed, relative to such matters, that the Pra- klang would, in ordinary matters, be the me- dium of communication between them, but that he would at all times receive the Agent to the Governor General. Sometime after the audience of the king had taken place, the Agent had a second interview AND COCHIN CHINA. 195 with this prince ; but neither on this occasion did the objects of the mission enter into the subjects of conversation, either directly or indirectly. Mr. Rutherfurd and I accompanied Mr. Craw- furd on this occasion. The interview took place at the particular request of the prince, who also named the hour of audience. We reached his mansion, a dirty and mean-looking building, though spacious within and tolerably well fitted up, at the appointed hour. We were shewn into an open court, at one end of the edifice, as a waiting-room ; this place was 'neither decent nor respectable. A crowd of noisy, dirty, and ill- bred slaves or attendants crowded round the place, or were lolling on the floor, never taking the least notice of us, unless to shew intentional insolence. One or two small rushlights placed upon the floor cast a dim and gloomy light around the room, by the aid of which we could discover in a niche, a number of small wooden images, partly Chinese, and partly Siamese. In this place the Agent to the Governor General was kept waiting upwards of two hours. The chief Suri-Wong happening to come in, stated that the prince was at prayers, and that this was the cause of delay. Yet the hour had been named by the prince himself. At length, however, it was intimated that the prince was ready to receive the Agent according O 2 196 MISSION TO SIAM to the usual custom of the Siamese ; we found him extended upon his back, and rolling about upon a small piece of carpet. He took no notice of us on our entrance ; the attendants, who were all prostrate, near to the threshold, directed us to sit down upon a piece of handsome carpet, near to the door, and at a distance from the prince ; which might be deemed more than re- spectful. Mr. Crawfurd's interpreter was not permitted to enter with him, but by perseverance he forced his way near to the door, where he had to undergo many a severe pinch and other insults from the out- door attendants, who wished to drive him away. The conversation turned upon the government of our Indian possessions, and particularly on that of CeyJon. The prince hearing that I had been in that country, for which they entertain the highest respect, calling it by the name of Lanka, and regarding it as the source from which they have drawn their religion, put numerous questions respecting the state of the Bauddhic rehgion, the number, size and condition of the temples, pra-chadis and images, as compared with those of Si am. He then inquired into the state of medicine amongst the people of Europe, asked how many diseases the human body was subject to, whether they all admitted of cure, and so forth. This sort AND COCHIN CHINA. 197 of conversation lasted for nearly two hours, at the end of which, conceiving probably by our manner that we were heartily tired, both by his ques- tions, as well as by the constrained posture which we were obliged to assume in sitting upon the floor, he told us that we might depart. The conversation of the prince would lead us to infer that he is a man of more curiosity than talent, though in respect to the latter, he did not appear to be particularly defective. He seemed desirous that vaccination should be introduced into the kingdom, and inquired, as it were incidentally, if it were possible to procure a gentleman of the medical profession from Bengal. On being told that such a person might be procured by his writing to the Governor General on the subject, he took no further notice of the matter. Some time in the course of this month, I was requested to wait upon the prince, about mid- night, on account of a lady of rank in the palace, who was said to be labouring under a severe at- tack of cholera morbus. He expressed his thanks for the promptitude with which I had attended to his request ; stating that the person on whose account I had been called was now considered to be somewhat better, and that she had fallen asleep ; that however in the course of a few mi- nutes he should receive another report, and begged that I would remain, in order to accom- 198 MISSION TO SIAM pany him to the palace of the king, if the report should be unfavourable. In the meantime he ordered betel, ^c, to be laid before me, and com- menced a conversation in which he seemed much interested, respecting the sick lady, and our method of cure in this disease. A report came that she was better and still asleep ; he asked if the latter circumstance were favourable, and seemed surprised when told that in this disease, in particular, sleep was in general rather appa- rent than real, and therefore a very fallacious symptom, and to be judged of correctly by actual inspection only. He now shewed great eagerness to obtain some portion of the medicines used in the cure of cholera. In answer to his demands on this subject, I replied that it was necessary I should see the sick person before I could say with accuracy what would be proper for her ; that he must necessarily be but imperfectly acquainted with the manner of describing diseases, and that I myself was but very imperfectly acquainted with the language through which we communi- cated ; and that therefore I could not be sup- posed to acquire very correct information on the subject of the disease in question ; and that be- sides, it happened that medicines which were proper at one period of the disease were hurtful at another. He was by no means satisfied with these rea- AND COCHIN CHINA. 199 sons ; for after a few minutes he returned to the same subject, saying that he should wish to have some of my medicines by him, to give to his people in the event of their being seized with the complaint. With this request I readily com- plied, and gave the necessary instructions, which were carefully -written down by an attendant. He continued in conversation on this and other subjects, for nearly three hours ; when, becom- ing impatient at this idle and unnecessary occu- pation of my time, I told him that it was my wish to depart as it did not seem likely that my advice would be required. With this request he complied, again stating his obligations to me, and that he would request me to attend in the morning on the lady, if she should not be better. The poor lady, however, was not destined to see the light of another day. It had happened, as I had forewarned the prince, that after the more violent symptoms of the disease had subsided, she fell into a state of stupor, which the attend- ants had mistaken for that of sleep, and she never awakened again. At one period of her illness, they certainly ap- peared disposed to break through all ceremony, and, for once at least, to admit an European into the interior apartments of the women. The fal- lacious change which had taken place some time previous to death, seems alone to have prevented them from breaking through the rule. 200 MISSION TO SIAM But to return from this digression, to the ob- jects of the mission. It has been aheady men- tioned that to Chroma-Chit*, an illegitimate son of the reigning king, the commercial affairs of the nation are intrusted ; besides which he is inspector of the eastern maritime provinces of Chantibond and Bombasoi. He is but the fourth in point of rank among the king's ministers, though com- monly, but erroneously, considered to be the first and even heir to the throne, by the few Eu- ropeans who visit Bankok. This notion has arisen from their being unacquainted with the others, wdth whom, as they have no business to transact, and being for the most part incurious respecting such matters, they have but little chance of becoming acquainted. It was only after repeated inquiry, that we were enabled to ascertain his rank. Of the princes superior in rank to Chroma-Chit, we know nothing but by report, as we have neither visited nor been in- vited to visit or to meet them, the prince Chroma- Chit and his assistant Suri-Wong being the only persons of any rank whom we obtained an opportunity of visiting. Neither did any persons of respectability visit us, unless we might by * Tliis prince, it is understood, has since succeeded to the throne, and commenced his reig'n by allowing' a general freedom of commerce to his subjects and foreigners, except in the articles of fire-arms, opium, and some few royal monopolies, v;hich are still retained. AND COCHIN CHINA. 201 chance induce them in passing to step into our rooms, or unless they wished to procure medi- cines, which was sometimes the case. We had anticipated, this circumstance, and were not therefore much surprised at being left so much to ourselves. It had been well for the success of the mission, if our acquaintance had not extended to persons of meaner condition. But from what has been already stated, it will be seen, that persons, des- titute alike of rank, of respectability, of au- thority, and above all of honesty and good faith, were left to conduct the affairs of the mis- sion with the British Agent. This was but a sorry compliment to the government of Bengal, which, with a degree of liberality equalled only by its disinterested conduct, held forth to the Siamese far greater advantages than it asked for its own subjects. The Siamese are too low in the scale of na- tions to be able to form a just estimate of the advantages of friendly intercourse with such a government. It is to be suspected too that the mean-spirited and grovelling persons who con- duct the commerce of the kingdom, have greatly thwarted the objects of the mission, by misre- presenting its real views. What else was to be expected of such men as the Malay Kochai, and a tribe of exiled and emigrant natives of the 202 MISSION TO SIAM coasts of Malabar and Coromandel, whose interests depend solely upon the exclusion of Europeans from the country .; or at least upon the prevention of a free trade. Yet it was with such persons chiefly, I might almost say exclusively, that the negotiations had been carried on ; with the exception of a few interviews with the Pra-Klang. Even the Prince Chroma-Chit, much less the other minis- ters of the government or the king, obtained nothing directly from the British Agent, but al- ways through the medium of others, and ge- nerally through Kochai Sahac. Mr. Crawfurd at length discovered that this man was totally unworthy of his confidence, and that his con- duct was altogether worthless, but it was now unfortunately too late. The cunning and du- plicity of Kochai were calculated to deceive. He is in fact an agent employed only for mean purposes, and to agitate affairs which his prin- cipals might consider discreditable to them- selves. It might, doubtless, have been foreseen that nothing liberal or honest could come from such a quarter. It had been well, too, to have rejected all communication with agents of such inferior rank and worthless conduct. They are apt to injure national as well as individual character. It must be confessed, however, that it is no easy task to conduct affairs to a favourable ter- AND COCHIN CHINA. 203 mination with such people as the Siamese ; and that it is much more easy to detect difficulties than to surmount them ; to discover errors than to obviate or to remedy them. We arrived in the country ignorant of the manners of the people, and of the state of political opinion ; for even in this despotic government the spirit of party is not unknown. That knowledge which we sub- sequently acquired would, doubtless, have been of the first importance to the British Agent, had he possessed it on landing in Siam. The history of past negotiations is sufficient to prove that neither privileges, nor immunities, nor advantages of any kind, are to be gained from the Ultra- Gangetic nations, by submission, by condescension, or even by conciliation, or by flattery. They despise the former as a proof of weakness ; the latter, as arguing a mean spirit. Threats and aggression are neither justifiable nor necessary. A dignified, yet unassuming con- duct, jealous of its own honour, open and dis- interested, seeking its own advantage, but will- ing to promote that of others, will doubtless effect much with nations of this stamp of cha- racter, and must in the end be able to accomplish the object desired. It deserves to be mentioned that the king's ministers are divided into two parties. The Prince Chroma-Chit, enriched by the commerce 204 MISSION TO SI AM of the nation, and supported by the influence which the management of the treasury has thrown into his hands, stands at the head of one party, and exerts a degree of influence in the councils of the king, to which his rank alone does not appear to entitle him. He is more feared than beloved or respected by the people. He and his party are more remarkable for their wealth, than for respectability. They are well disposed to extend the limits of foreign commerce, as bringing the means of increasing their own power and influence, but they are either too ignorant or too weak to effect this on sound principles. The other and more respectable party, consisting of the princes Chroma-Lecong, chief judge. Chroma Khun, minister of the interior, and Chau- Chroma- Sac, commander of the forces, en- tertain no very exalted opinions of the advan- tages of commerce in general, oppose the plans of the others, and are unwilling to lay aside their ancient prejudices. The business of the mission, as has been al- ready observed, was agitated in detail with the Malay Kochai. It is stated that Mr. Crawfurd drew up a treaty consisting of thirty-nine arti- cles. These were listened to with great attention, and it seemed as if matters were going on very successfully for the mission. After they had all been agitated, however, they were sue- AND COCHIN CHINA. 205 cessively thrown aside, till nothing whatever re- mained of the treaty which could be interpreted into a concession in favour of commerce, unless we consider the reduction of the duties, one or two per cent., as deserving of that appellation ; and even this paltry matter they refused flatly on the very first occasion, by telling Mr. Storm, when concluding some commercial transactions with them, that they would not reduce the duties until five English ships should visit the port an- nually, or until after the lapse of a specified number of years. This was in fact the coup-de-grace. Nothing whatever had been granted in favour of commerce. The business of the mission had now come to an end. It was stated by Mr. Crawfurd, that the king was to grant an interview to the Agent of the Go- vernor General on his taking leave. We have heard nothing further of this matter. It is the acknowledged custom of the court to grant such interview *. The ambassador from Cochin * For an account of the embassy in 16S5, from Louis XIV. to the court of Siam, the reader may consult the work of the Jesuit Tachard ; Des Farg-es' relation of the revolutions in Siam in 16SS ; Extracts from a voyag-e with the armament of M. du Quesne, in 1690 ; and also the Memoirs of Count Forhin, and the Universal History. The French interest was cliiefly indebted for the fa- vourable reception and lofty honours with wliich the monarch of Siam was pleased to honour his good friends and faithful allies, 206 MISSION TO SIAM China had obtained his audience of leave, and dropped down the river this day, (11th June,) on his return home. The king of Siara did not condescend to re- turn a written answer to the Governor-General of British India. It was stated that the Pra-klang would write to him, on which Mr. Crawfurd re- presented that in this case the letter must be ad- dressed to the secretary of government. It now appeared, however, that this office was delegated to a person of still inferior rank, the Pra-klang's assistant, Pya-pee-pat Ko-sa. This letter was written in the Siamese and Portuguese languages. That in the latter was shewn to me by the writer. It went merely to specify, that Mr. Crawfurd had brought presents and a letter from the Governor General. That the tenor of this letter stated that England had enjoyed pro- found peace for some years past, — that Bengal did so also, —that the Governor General was de- sirous to contract friendship with the king of Siam, — that all British ports were as free to the Siamese as to our own subjects. In reply, the letter from Pya-pee-pat stated that British vessels the Chevalier tie Chaumont and suite, to the good offices of Constantino Phaulkon, prime minister of Siam, a native of Ce- phalonia, who had commenced his career in the service of the English company. Can we imagine that the events of those days are forgotten by the statesmen of Siara ? AND COCHIN CHINA. SOT may at all times visit Bankok ; but nothing was said of privileges, or freedom of commerce, or even of the reduction of duties. The Chuliahs and Portuguese, or rather the descendants of the latter, v^^ere assembled at the house of the Pra-klang, to deliver this letter to the Agent of the Governor General, but neither the Pra-klang himself, nor even his assistant, at- tended. It would appear that there was some- thing informal in the letter, or that they would not give the letter written in the Siamese lan- guage. It had not, therefore, been as yet deli- vered over to the British agent. June llth. — The Cochin Chinese ambassador and suite passed down the river, in two praus, adorned with numerous standards, on their re- turn to their country. June \2th. — It had been reported for several days back, and occasionally stated by Mr. Craw- furd, that the delay which has occurred in the delivery of the letters to the British mission, had led the Siamese government to consider further of the matter, and that they now in- tended to grant documents, in the form of a commercial treaty. In the course of the even- ing of this day, the documents alluded to were produced, and delivered to the Agent in our presence. They consisted of the Siamese and Portuguese letters formerly alluded to, the SOS MISSION TO sia:m former wrapped up in silk, and sealed, in- tended to be delivered to Mr. Prinsep ; the other, said to be an exact translation of the former, was open, and intended for the inspection of the Agent of the Governor General. To these were now added a brief letter, also in Siamese and Portuguese, from the Pia-chulah, the head chuliah or moorman of the place, inferior in rank to Pya-pee-pat, and an under- collector of the cus- toms. This was addressed to Mr. Crawfurd, and a sealed copy was sent for Mr. Prinsep. This states merely that English ships will be received into the port, on their complying with the usual rules, landing their guns and small arms at Bankok, paying the usual export and import duties, and port charges. That the Pia-chulah will assist them in disposing of their cargoes ; and that no more than the usual duties will be exacted. June 17 th. — Sufficient time had elapsed since we arrived in this place, to have enabled us to gain a tolerable acquaintance with the city and its environs. Unfortunately, however, for my pursuits, it had so happened, that I was able to turn this tedious and irksome delay to little advantage ; for having been seized with a slight bilious fever on the passage from the coast of Borneo to that of Cambodia, which was soon after followed by an attack of pneumonia, AND COCHIN CHINA. 209 attended with several relapses, I have been re- duced to the necessity of keeping much at home. A few visits to the city have been all that we have yet accomplished. The country affords but little facility for walking, or travelling in any way, so that we have been able to penetrate but a mile or two in any direction, except by water. All attempts to proceed into the interior, and even to Yuthia, have been jealously watched, and our requests have been carefully evaded, though not directly refused. Thus situated, we are but ill qualified as yet to speak of the agriculture of the country, or the condition of the peasantry. Frequent conversations with respectable indivi- duals among the natives, together with what we have ourselves occasionally seen, have given us some insight into the habits of the people, their manners, their laws, their religion, &c. Bankok, as being the capital of the kingdom, deserves to be more particularly mentioned. Though but of modern date, it has become the chief city in the kingdom, a distinction which it owes chiefly to its having been rendered the seat of government, by the Chinese king Pia-tac. Previous to his time, the place was of little importance, and noted chiefly for the excellence of its fruits, which were sent in great abundance to Yuthia, at that time the capital. The capture and plunder^ of the ancient city 810 MISSION TO SI AM by the Barmans, together with the disastrous events which followed, induced many of the inha- bitants to abandon the place. Pia-tac collecting the scattered remains ofthe dispirited inhabitants around him, was soon in a condition to establish a new city. The site of Bankok offered several ad- vantages over that of Yuthia. He constructed a fort on the right bank of the river, the walls of which, as well as his palace, if a building of such wretched appearance deserve that name, are still to be seen. The successes of Pia-tac, in his wars against the Barmans, enabled him to realize his views with regard to Bankok. Since this time it has constantly been on the increase. The suc- cessors of Pia-tac have had it equally in view to aggrandize the place. They have built seve- ral new palaces, and other public buildings ; but the edifices on which the greatest care, labour, and expense, have been bestowed, are the tem- ples, including the usual ornamental building, called Pra-cha-di, of a spiral form, probably the sepulchral monument of Buddha. The palace of the present king is situated on the left bank of the river, nearly opposite to the old palace of Pia-tac, upon an island from two to three miles in length, though of inconsiderable breadth. The palace, and indeed almost the whole of this island is surrounded by a wall, in some parts of considerable height, here and there furnished AND COCHIN CHINA. Sll with indifferent-looking bastions, and provided with numerous gates both towards the river and on each side. Both the king and several of his ministers reside within this space. The persons attached to the court are very numerous, and also reside here, in wretched huts made of palm- leaves. There is, in fact, but little distinction between this place, and other parts of the town, except it be that you see few Chinese there, and that the shops are of inferior quality. The greater part, however, of the space included by the wall, consists of waste ground, swamps, and fruit-gardens ; The city is continuous with the palace, extend- ing on both sides of the river to the distance of three or four miles ; it lies principally on the left bank, and the most populous as well as the wealthiest part lies nearly opposite to the house of the Pra-klang, but a little lower down. The town is built entirely of wood, the palaces of the king, the temples and the houses of a few chiefs being alone constructed of brick or mud walls. The mildness of the climate, the cheapness of the materials used in building, and the few effects of which the natives are possessed, render them indifferent to the destructive ravages of fire. The ruin occasioned by this element they regard with perfect indifference. From the great length which the city occupies along the banks of the P 2 212 MISSION TO SIAM river, it might be supposed to be a place of vast extent: this, however, is not the case. The Siamese may be said to be aquatic in their dis- position. The houses rarely extend more than one or two hundred yards from the river, and by far the greater number of them are floating on bamboo rafts secured close to the bank. The houses that are not so floated are built on posts driven into the mud, and raised above the bank, a precaution rendered necessary both by the diurnal flow of the tides, and the annual inun- dations to which the country is subject. It has been said that there are but few, I had almost said, no roads or even pathways. To every house, floating or not, there is attached a boat, generally very small, for the use of the family. There is little travelling but what is performed by water, and hence the arms both of the women and men acquire a large size from the constant habit of rowing. The few streets that Bankok boasts are passable on foot only in dry weather : the prin- cipal shops, however, and the most valuable merchandise, are found along the river in the floating-houses. These floating-houses are occu- pied almost exclusively by Chinese. In the most populous parts of the town the latter would appear to constitute at least three-fourths of the whole population ; and if we were to form an AND COCHIN CHINA. 213 estimate of those that are to be seen at all hours moving up and down the river in boats of various kinds, often forming a very animated scene, the proportion would be still greater on the side of the Chinese. There are but very few parts of Bankok where the Chinese do not appear to exceed the natives in number. The greatest uniformity prevails in the appearance of the houses — a handsome spire here and there serves to enliven the view, and these are the only orna- ments which can be said to produce this effect, for the singular architecture displayed in the construction of the temples and palaces can hardly be considered in this light. A more particular account of the floating- houses has been given above : like every other building in the place, they consist of one floor only. The houses generally have a neat appear- ance ; they are, for the most part, thatched with palm-leaves, but sometimes with tiles. They are divided into several small apartments, of which the Chinese always allot the central one for the reception of their household gods. The shops, forming one side of the house, being shut up at night, are converted into sleeping apartments. The whole is disposed with the greatest economy of space: even the narrow virandas in front, on which are usually disposed jars of water, pots with herbs and plants, bundles «4 MISSION TO SIAM of firewood, ^c. They have become so habi- tuated to this sort of aquatic life, as scarcely to experience any inconvenience from it. The w^alls and floors of the houses are formed of boards, and considering the nature of the climate, such build- ings afford very comfortable shelter. The houses of the common people are equally wretched in appearance with those of a common bazar in India. Those occupied by the Chinese are in general neater and more comfortable. The latter people are not only the principal merchants, but the only artificers in the place. The most com- mon trades are those of tin-smith, blacksmith, and currier. The manufacture of tin vessels is very considerable, and the utensils being po- lished bright, and often of very handsome forms, •give an air of extreme neatness to the shops in which they are displayed. Were it not for the very extraordinary junction of the trade of cur- rier, such places might readily be mistaken for silversmiths' shops. The occupations just men- tioned are carried on in the same shop con- jointly, and by the same individuals. The pre- paration of leather is carried on to a great extent, not for the purpose of making shoes, which are scarcely used, but for covering mat- tresses and pillows, and for exportation to China. After tanning, the leather is dyed red with the bark, I believe, of a species of Mimosa. The AND COCHIN CHINA. 215 hides used are principally those of the deer, which are to be had in the greatest abundance. Besides these, they use that of the ox and buffalo. Leopards', tigers' skins, ^c, are pre- served with the fur on, and exported to China. There are, in the place, one or two manufactories of shallow cast-iron pots, also conducted by Chinese : the process is extremely simple, and the articles are sold remarkably cheap. From the practice of these and other trades, the Chinese derive a very handsome livelihood; they are consequently enabled to procure more generous food than the natives. It is even a common boast with the labourers of this class, that they live better than the first chiefs of the country. Their food, however, is gross and rich to excess ; pork is their principal and favourite diet, oil is reckoned scarce less savoury, and their vegetables are invariably brought to table floating in a sea of fat. A Chinese thus ex- pends more money on eating, in one week, than a Siamese in two or three months, and his supe- rior industry will enable him to do so. The food of the Siamese consists chiefly of rice, which is eaten with a substance called Ba- lachang, a strange compound of things savoury and loathsome ; but in such general use, that no one thinks of eating without some portion of it. Religion offers but a feeble barrier against the 216 MISSION TO SIAM desire to eat animal food, and the Siamese easily satisfy their conscience on this score. They conceive that they have obeyed the injunction of the law, when they themselves have not killed the animals. They do not hesitate to purchase fish, fowls, S'c-, alive in the market, desiring the seller to slay them before he delivers them over, well contented that the crime must remain at- tached to the latter. Their devotion, at times, goes the length of inducing them to purchase numbers of living fish for the purpose of turning them loose again, and the king has often in this manner given liberty to all the fish caught on a particular day. Yet the privilege of fishing is sold by the king to the highest bidder, and from this source he derives a very considerable annual revenue. The Siamese, however, are more choice in their food, and less indulgent of their appetites than the Chinese. The town derives but little architectural orna- ment from the state of its public buildings, if we except the sacred edifice called Pra-cha-di. The palaces are buildings of inconsiderable size in- dividually, in the Chinese style, covered with a diminishing series of three or four tiled roofs, sometimes terminated by a small spire, and more remarkable for singularity than for beauty. The palace of the king is covered with tin tiles. Many of the temples cover a large extent of AND COCHIN CHINA. 217 ground ; they are placed in the most elevated and best situations, surrounded by brick walls or bamboo hedges, and the enclosure contains nu- merous rows of buildings, disposed in straight lines. They consist of one spacious, and in ge- neral lofty hall, with narrow but numerous doors and windows. Both the exterior and interior are studded over with a profusion of minute and singular ornaments of the most varied descrip- tion. It is on the ends, and not on the sides of the exterior of the building, that the greatest care has been bestowed in the disposition of the ornaments. A profusion of gilding, bits of look- ing glass, China basins of various colours, stuck into the plaster, are amongst the most common materials. The floor of the temple is elevated several feet above the ground, and generally boarded or paved, and covered with coarse mats. The fabulous stories of Hindu theology fi- gure in all the absurdity that gave them birth, upon the interior walls. The wildest imagina- tion would seem to have guided the artist's hand ; yet here and there he has portrayed, by accident, perhaps, more than by design, human passions with a degree of spirit and of truth worthy of better subjects. Notwithstanding the great demand there is for painting in this way, the circumstance is singular and remarkable, that this divine art should not only continue 218 MISSION TO SIAM in its infancy among them, but that their perform- ances should not even indicate a capacity of attaining to greater flights. If, as some believe, Asia has given birth to the arts, the experience of ages has proved that she is quite incapable of carrying them to perfection. Here, for the first time, did I observe obscene paintings in a temple dedicated to Buddha. In Ceylon they would have been deemed altogether profane. We were amused to find suspended in a very handsome temple, two coarse paintings of French ladies, in rural costume. At one end of the temple a sort of altar is raised, on which is placed the principal figure of Buddha, surrounded by innumerable lesser ones, and by those of priests ; and here and there is disposed the figure of a deceased king, distin- guished by his tall conical cap, peculiar phy- siognomy, and rich costume. The figures of Buddha have a cast of the Tartar countenance, particularly the eye of that race. They are very commonly disfigured by having tattered um- brellas of cloth or paper suspended over the head, or tied to it, and by having rags of dirty cloth wrapped round them, it being reckoned devout to deck the statues in this way ; though as the images are all gilt, and in general well cast, this gives them a very sorry appearance. It will scarcely be credited how numerous the AND COCHIN CHINA. 219 images of Buddha are in the temples. They are disposed with unsparing profusion on the altar, of all sizes, from one inch to thirty feet in height. In the outer courts of the temple they are dis- posed in still greater number. The arrangement observed in the temple called Waat-thay-cham- ponn, may be given as an instance of what occurs in the rest. This consists of a number of temples, Pra- cha-dis *, and buildings allotted for the accom- modation of priests, enclosed in an ample square, rather more than a quarter of a mile on each side. The principal temples are further sur- rounded by a piazza open only towards the tem- ple, and about twelve or fifteen feet in breadth, and well paved. Against the back wall, a stout platform of masonry extends round the temple, on which are placed gilded figures of Buddha, for the most part considerably larger than the human size, and so close to each other as to leave no vacant place on the platform. Of these statues the greater number are made of cast iron, others are made of brass, others of wood or of clay, and all with careful uniformity. Several hundreds of such images are thus seen at one glance of the eye. In other and less spacious passages, minor figures, chiefly of clay or wood, are heaped together in endless numbers. They * Literally the roof of the Pra or Lord. 220 MISSION TO SIAM would appear to accumulate so fast, that it seems probable the priests are at times reduced to the necessity of demolishing hosts of them. From what has been said, it will be seen that images are here manufactured in vast num- bers. The expense in gilding alone, for every image is gilt, must be great. Some are of enormous size ; in this temple there is one about thirty feet high. The attendants attempted to persuade us that it was made of copper, but the application of the knife proved it to be of hard wood in different pieces. This statue is erect, and stands alone in a building apparently erected as a covering for it. The more common posture in which Buddha is repre- sented is that of sitting cross-legged, in a con- templative attitude, the soles of the feet turned up. In other instances he is reclining on a pillow, the attitude also contemplative. These three are the only postures in which the natives of Ceylon represent him. Here he is to be seen asleep, and, as I have been told, there are even some figures that represent him as dead. The minor arrangements of the temples are hardly deserving of notice. The apartments allotted for the accommodation of the priests are clean, neat, substantial, and comfortable, without ornament or superfluity. The Pra-cha-di of the temple called Waat- AND COCHIN CHINA. 321 thay-cham-ponn, is the handsomest of the khid in Bankok, and indeed deserving of notice on account of its architectural beauty. The Pra-cha-di, called, by the Bauddhists of Ceylon, Dagoba, is a solid building of masonry, without aperture or inlet of any sort, however large it may be. It is generally built in the neighbourhood of some temple, but is not itself an object or a place of worship, being always distinct from the temple itself*. In its * The design of the small chambers in the Pyramids of Egypt has been variously explained ; some considering them as sepulchral depositories, and others as the adyta of the more sacred and retired mysteries. The truth possibly may be that each conjecture is cor- rect, and that in the office of a sepulchral shrine, as well as in form, the Pyramid and the Dagoba exactly coincide. Among the Mackenzie collection in the Library of the Honour- able East India Company, is a volume of drawings representing the ruins of Amarawati, an ancient city on the Kishna river, in which the form of the interior of the Dagoba, or sepukhre of Buddha is amply illustrated. Several circumstances and ceremonies in the religion of Buddha would seem to identify its origin, in a great measure, with that of ancient Egypt. The physiognomy, the form, and the stature of Buddha are as distinctly Ethiopic as they are different from those which characterize the various tribes which inhabit either the western or eastern parts of tlie Asiatic continent. That it is areligion foreign to Asia, the uncertainty which still exists Vi^ith regard to the country or district which gave it birth would seem to render probable. The proofs which have been brought forward in favour of Ceylon, and of Magadha, would seem to rest upon very slender foundations. Several festivals in this religion bear a strong resemblance to the ceremonies performed by the ancient Egyptians on the rising of the Nile. That called Periharah is of this nature. The Pyr.amids of 222 MISSION TO SIAM origin, it would appear to have been sepulchral, and destined to commemorate either the death of Buddha, or his translation into heaven. Even at the present time, these ornamental buildings are thought to contain some relic of Buddha. This one in particular makes a light and handsome appearance : the lower part consists of a series of dodecahedral terraces, diminishing gradually to nearly one half of the whole height, where they are succeeded by a handsome spire, fluted longitudinally, and ornamented with numerous circular mouldings. The minor ornaments are numerous, and towards the summit there is a small globe of glass. The total height would Egypt, are they not the prototype of the Dagobah, or Pra-cha-di? Instead of considering" these stupendous monuments of human labour as the tombs of earthly kings, ought we not rather to regard them as owing their origin to religious motives ? It is scarcely possible to believe that any other motive could induce men to undertake or to execute works of such magnitude. The small chambers found in the interior of some of them might have con- tained, or at least had been intended to contain relics, such as bones of their deity. This conjecture receives confirmation from Sir Everard Home's account of those bones which he examined at the desire of Lieutenant-Colonel Fitzclarence, and which, when com- pared mth the skeletons in the Hunterian Museum, were decidedly those of the Bos genus. These bones were found in the sarco- phagus of the pyramid of Cephrenes. See Fitzclarence" s Route through India and Egypt to England, page 499. In addition it may be remarked, that Mnevis and Apis, the sacred bulls, were considered as emblems of the God of Justice, and that Dharma Rajah, or the King of Justice, is a very common appellative of Buddha. — Editor. AND COCHIN CHINA. 23S appear to be about two hundred and fifty feet from the ground. Minor edifices of this sort are common in every temple. They are in general raised upon a base of twelve sides, but sometimes of eigh- teen. We have no accurate data to enable us to esti- mate the population of Bankok. It has been stated that the Chinese constitute at least one- half of the whole. The remainder is composed of Siamese, native christians of this place and of Cambodia, Barmans, Peguers, and natives of the Malay islands and of Laos*. These oc- cupy distinct portions of the town, and associate only with each other. * Laou or Laos is the country north of Siain Proper, and im- mediately adjoining the southern border of the Chinese province of Yuunan ; from this circumstance, from the reported difference of language, and from the boundary of Siam not including the Northern Laos, the people of Laos are, in all probability, nation- ally distinct from the Siamese. MISSION TO SIAIM CHAPTER VI. Physical form and character op the Siamese.— Manners AND Customs. — Treatment op the dead, and funereal OBSEQUIES OP the MONARCH. — LaWS. — ADULTERY.— ThBFT. History. — State of defence. — Revenue. — Siamese nu- merals. — Kalendar. — Annual festival at the close of THE YEAR. — ReLIGION. — LaWS OF BuDDHA. — PROVINCE OP ChANTIBOND THE RICHEST PORTION OF THE TERRITORY OP SiAM. — Its PRODUCTS. — Mines op gold and of precious STONES. — Zoological remarks. I HAVE already, on more than one occasion, briefly alluded to the physical form of the Si- amese. At present I shall make such observa- tions as more extensive experience has enabled me to collect. That the Siamese are one of the numerous tribes which constitute that great and singular family of the human race, known generally by the appellation of Mongols, will appear to most persons sufficiently obvious. If they do not possess, in the most acute degree, the peculiar features of the original, they are at least stamped with traits sufficiently just to entitle them to be considered as copies. There is, however, one general and well-marked form, common to all the tribes lying between China and Hindostan. Under this head are comprehended the inhabi- AND COCITTN CHINA. 225 tants of Ava, Pegu, Siam, Cambodia, and even of Cochin-China, though those of the latter country more resemble the Chinese than the others. This distinctive character is so strongly blended with the Mongol features that we have no hesitation in considering these nations as de- riving their origin from that source. It appears to me that to this source also we ought to refer the Malays*, who cannot be said to possess national characters, at least of physiognomy and physical form, sufficiently distinct and obvious to entitle them to be considered as a distinct race. Where there is a difference between the Malays and the tribes mentioned, it is more to be referred to the condition of the mental faculty, * If we compare the IVIalays with the move acute forms of the Tartar race, with the Chinese ou the one hand, or with the Arabs or Hindoos that frequent their islands, on the other, v/e may be dis- posed to consider them as forming a different race. Their affinity with the Indo-Chinese nations, whom we have every reason to consider as of Tartar origin, is, however, quite unequivocal ; and it is through this medium, it appears to me, that we ought to trace their fihation. The sea-coasts of the peninsula of Malacca, Su- matra, and a few other places in that neighbourhood, will be Ibund to afford the best forms illustrative of the character of this tribe ; as for instance, the people called Orang Laut. In the better-cul- tivated islands, the physical form is much modified, as well as the manners, by intermixture with other tribes ; probably with those who preceded them in the possession of the country. Let the in- habitants of the places referred to be compared, not directly with the Chinese, but with the Siamese, Barmans, &c., and little doubt will be entertained .as to the probable origin of this people. Q ms MISSION TO SIAM than to that of bodily form ; to the state of man- ners, habits of Hfe, language ; in short to circum- stances altogether, or in great part, produced by mind. In other respects they would appear to differ but little from the tribes mentioned above. Traces of a much ruder people are to be met with in the mountainous districts of these king- doms, particularly in the peninsula of Malacca. Our knowledge of these is much too scanty to enable us to trace their filiation. Though gene- rally asserted, there are no records to prove that they are the aboriginal inhabitants of the coun- try, at least of any other part of it than the wilds and impenetrable forests which they con- tinue to occupy. The woolly-headed race, and another resembling the Indian, are not uncom- mon*. Their origin will probably ever remain uncertain. The following observations will be found to * A comparison of languages, both in the grammar and vocabu- lary, niaj' yet produce nuich light on the interesting subject of tlie family origin of nations. A comparative vocabulary of some of the Indo-Chinese languages was published by the lamented Dr. John Leyden ; to render such a compilation perfect, it should embrace, not merely the more obvious dialects, but those of the inland re- fcesses. Is there any affinity between the language of the tribes who inhabit the hilly wildernesses of the Goand country, of Raje- mahal and Malwa, and^those similarly situated on the Malay pe- ninsula, Kassai and Asam ?— or extending the investigation, do any ancient languages of the cast bear aflinity to those of Ethiopia or Africa ?—E(L AND COCHIN CHINA- S27 apply to the several nations already mentioned, and in general to the Chinese also, whom I con- sider as the prototype of the whole race. A multitude of forms are to be seen in every na- tion, not referable to any particular family or variety of the human race. For our present purpose, we must select such only as possess the peculiar form in the most characteristic degree. But as all the requisites of this form are not al- ways developed in a very acute degree in all, we must collect from a multitude of instances, what appears to be the predominating tendency. In this way we may make out a portrait of the whole. The stature of the body would appear to be much alike in all the tribes of the Mongol race, the Chinese being perhaps a little taller, and the Malays lower than the others. In all it is below that of the Caucasian race. The average height of the Siamese, ascertained by actual measurement of a considerable number of indi^ vidualSy amounts to five feet three inches. The skin is of a lighter colour than in the ge- nerality of Asiatics to the west of the Ganges ; by far the greater number being of a yellow complexion, a colour which, in the higher ranks, and particularly amongst women and children, they take pleasure in heightening by the use of a bright yellow wash or cosmetic, so that their Q 2 22g MISSION TO SIAJI bodies are often rendered of a golden colour. The texture of the skin is remarkably smooth, soft, and shining. Throughout the whole race there is a strong tendency towards obesity. The nutritious fluids of the body are principally directed towards the surface^ distending and overloading the cellular tissue with an inordinate quantity of fat. The muscular textures are in general soft, lax, and flabby, rarely exhibiting that strength or deve- iopement of outline which marks the finer forms of the human body. In labourers and mecha- nics, particularly the Chinese, the muscular parts occasionally attain considerable volume, but very rarely the hardness and elasticity deve- loped by exercise in the European race. On a simple inspection, we are apt to form exagge- rated notions respecting their muscular strength, and capacity for labour. A more close exami- nation discovers the reality, and we find that something more than volume is necessary to con- stitute vigour of arm. In point of size, the limbs are often equal to, if not larger than those of Europeans, particu- larly the thighs, but this magnitude of volume will be found to depend upon the cause alluded to above. The same circumstance gives to the whole body a disproportionate bulk ; and hence they form what is called a squat race. AND COCHIN CHINA. 239 The face is remarkably broad and flat, the cheek-bones prominent, large, spreading, and gently rounded. The glabellum is flat and un- usually large. The' eyes are in general small. The aperture of the eye-lids, moderately linear in the Indo-Chinese nations and Malays, is acutely so in the Chinese, bending upward at its exte- rior termination. The lower jaw is long, and re- markably full under the zygoma, so as to give to the countenance a square appearance. The nose is rather small than flat, the alae not being dis- tended in any uncommon degree ; in a great number of Malays, however, it is largest towards the point. The mouth is large, and the lips thick. The beard is remarkably scanty, consist- ing only of a few straggling hairs. The forehead, though broad in the lateral direction, is in gene- ral narrow, the hairy scalp descending very low. The head is peculiar. The diameter from the front backwards is uncommonly short ; and hence the general form is somewhat cylindrical. The occipital foramen in a great number of instances is placed so far back, that from the crown to the nape of the neck is nearly a straight line. The top of the head is often unusually flat. The hair is thick, coarse, and lank, in some shewing a dis- position to curl on the forehead, but this is more peculiar to the Malays. The colour is always black. (830 . MISSION TO SI AM The limbs arc thick, short and stout, and the arms rather disproportionate in length to the body. The arms, particularly in Malays, are uncom- monly long. The foot is, in general small, but the hand is much larger than in the natives of Bengal. The trunk is rather square, being nearly as broad at the loins as over the pectoral muscles. There is in this respect the greatest difference between them and the inhabitants of either India, who are in general remarkable for small waists. The diameter of the pelvis is particularly large, and the dimensions of the cavity would appear to be somewhat greater than in the other races. From this account of their form, they would appear to be admirably calculated to execute and to undergo the more toilsome and laborious, but mechanical, operations which are the usual lot of the labouring classes of mankind. They have the frame, without the energy of London porters. The greater number of them are indeed more distinguished for mechanical skill, and pa- tience under laborious occupations, than for brightness . of imagination or mental capacity. Others of them are equally remarkable for indo- lence and aversion to labour. AND COCHIN CHINA. ;83l MANNERS AND CUSTOMS OF THE SUMJISE. TREATMENT OP THE DEAD. The treatment of the dead is not amongst the least singular of the customs peculiar to the Si- amese. It is more or less expensive according to the rank which the individual held in the com munity, or the ability of his relations. The poorest amongst them are negligently and with- out ceremony thrown into the river. Those a little higher in the scale of society arc burnt; often very imperfectly, and their partially-con- sumed bones are left to bleach on the plain, or to be devoured by ravenous beasts. Children, before the age of dentition, are interred in a su- perficial grave, to one end of which an upright board is attached. Women who have died preg- nant are interred in a similar manner. After the lapse of ^ few months, however, their remains are taken up for the purpose of being burnt. With the exceptions mentioned, the practice of burning the dead extends to all ranks. The ceremony may be witnessed almost daily in the environs, and within the precincts of the temples. The latter are generally provided with a lofty shed, of a pyramidal form, open on all sides, and supported on tall wooden posts, of sufficient 339 MISSION TO SI AM height to admit of the combustion of the body without injury to the roof. Nor is even this simple shed common to all. The avarice of the priesthood, taking advantage of the weaker feel- ings of the human mind, has even here esta- blished distinctions at which death mocks. The poorer sort, therefore, raise the pile at a humble distance from the roof of pride. A singular custom takes place in many in- stances previous to the ceremony of combustion. It is that of cutting the muscular and soft parts of the" body into innumerable small pieces, until nothing is left of the corpse but the bare bones. The flesh thus cut up is thrown to dogs, vultures, and other carnivorous birds, which on this account resort to such places in great numbers. We found one of those pyramids covered with vultures, and the enclosure much frequented by dogs. The scene was loathsome and disgusting in the extreme, and sufficiently attested the pre- valence of this custom. The practice is looked upon as charitable and laudable, and the Siamese arrogate to themselves no small share of merit in thus disposing of the body as food, the material of life, to the beasts of the field, and to the birds of the air. It seems probable that this singular practice is connected with their notions of a future existence, and may have derived its origin in some way from the ancient doctrine of AND COCHIN CHlNAo 233 Metempsychosis/ so strongly inculcated by their religion *. A different custom prevails among the higher orders of Siamese, which, considering that the body is finally destined to be consumed by fire, is as unaccountable as the other is barbarous and unfeeling. The custom I allude to is that of embalming the dead. But what seems most singular in this custom is, that the body has no sooner undergone that degree of preparation which renders it capable of being preserved for a longer period, than it is destined to be totally consumed. Were it not for this apparent incon- sistency, we should have little hesitation in attributing the origin of this practice to that warmth of filial affection, and the well known devotion to their ancestors, for which the Chinese are so remarkable. The art of embalming, as known to the Siamese, is extremely imperfect, notwithstanding that it has been practised from very ancient times. Its actual state is characteristic of that general igno- rance of the ornamental, as well as of the useful * A custom somewhat similar is not unknown to the Baiulil]iit.ts of Ceylon. During [the late war in that countrj', a chief of some rank was sentenced to undergo the punishment of death by decapi- tation. It was intimated to him that government would not pre- vent his relations froua rendering to his body tlie funeral rij^Iits «tf his country. He replied that it was his debire that his body might bs left to be devoured by the jackals and other wild beasts. 234. MISSrON TO SIAM arts of civilized life, which I have already hinted at on several occasions. The process is for the most part left to the relations of the deceased, who call in the assist- ance of the more experienced. After washing the body with water, the first step is to pour a large quantity of crude mercury into the mouth. Persons of the highest rank alone, however, can have recourse to a mate- rial so expensive. The others substitute honey in its stead, but it is said with a less favourable result. The body is now placed in a kneeling posture, and the hands are brought together be- fore the face, in the attitude of devotion. Nar- row strips of cloth are then bound tightly round the extremities, and the body is compressed in a similar manner. The object of the ligatures is to squeeze the m.oisture out of the body. They act also in preserving the required posture, and with this object the more flexile tendons of the extremities are divided. In this posture the body is next placed in an air-tight vessel of wood, brass, silver, or gold, according to the. rank of the deceased. A tube, or hollow bamboo, inserted into the mouth of the de- ceased, passes through the upper part of the box, and is conducted through the roof of the house to a considerable height. A similar bamboo is placed in the bottom, and terminates in a vessel placed under it to receive the draining AND COCHIN CHINA. 235 off from the body. If the deceased is of the rank of a prince, the sordes thus collected is conveyed with great formality and state, in a royal barge, highly ornamented, to be deposited at a particular part of the river below the city. That collected from the body of the king is put into a vessel, and boiled mitil an oil separates, which oil is carefully collected, and with this they, on certain occasions, (as when his descendants and those of his family go to pay their devotions to his departed spirit), anoint the singular image called Sema, usually placed in the temple after his death. Notwithstanding the precaution of using the tubes and the tight box, the odour, it is said, is often most offensive. In a few weeks, however, it begins to diminish, and the body becomes shriveled and quite dry. The body thus prepared by this rude process is, at the proper period, brought forth to be burnt, the relations having in the mean time made every necessary arrangement for the solemn occasion. Early in the morning a number of priests are as- sembled at the house of the deceased ; having re- ceived robes of yellow cloth, and been feasted, they repeat prayers in the Pali language, after which the body is carried forth to be burned. The priests receive the body as it approaches the temple, and conducting it towards the pile, 236 MISSION TO SIAM repeat a verse in the Pali language, which has been thus interpreted to me : Eheu ! mortale corpus, Ut fuinus hie nunc ascendlt, sic et Animus tuus ascendat in coclum *. After the body has been destroyed, the ashes, or rather the small fragments of bone which remain, are carefully collected, and the use that is made of them is somewhat singular. The priests are again called in ; prayers are again repeated in the Pali language, and various requisite ceremonies are performed, after w^hich the ashes which had been collected after com- bustion, are reduced to a paste with w^ater, and formed into a small figure of Buddha, which being gilded, and finished by the priests, is either placed in the temple, or preserved by the friends of the deceased. This last ceremony is attended with consider- able expense, and, therefore, the poorer orders, when unable to engage priests for its perform- ance, keep the ashes of their relations by them, until they are in a condition to have it carried into effect in a becoming manner. It must be confessed, that in matters of this sort, the Siamese shew the greatest regard to the memory of their relations and ancestors. Where death and its dread apparatus are thus brought * Ah ! nuntal is (he budy, as now ascends this smoke. So may thy soul ascend to heaven. AND COCHIN CHINA. 237 daily liome to the ieelings, — wliere the mind is accustomed to view the disgusting and humi- liating phenomena that attend the last scene of mortality, it might be thought that a stupid in- sensibility, if not scornful indifference, would be the general result. We have no reason to believe that such is the case with the Siamese. The care and attention they have bestowed upon the remains of their relations, seem but to endear their memory the more to them. The fear of death is, besides, of that nature, that neither the most deliberate reason, nor the most obtuse feel- ing, can lay it altogether aside. On the minds of the multitude more especially, this fear operates strongly, and produces effects in proportion to their degree of intelligence. Where there is already a strong tendency tov/ards superstition, this bias is still more heightened, and there are perhaps few nations more strongly imbued with this sentiment than the Siamese ; and, in general, all the tribes of Mongol origin. AVith them judicial astrology still holds the rank of the most important of sciences, and is cultivated with the most scrupulous attention. Its pretended results are rec[uired on all important occasions, either of a public or a private nature. Nor are the most gross and revolting superstitions confined to the vulgar, as the following anecdote respecting the present Pra-klang, Surec-wong Montree, will shew. :?38 MISSION TO SIAM This gentleman hearing of the wonderful effects said to be produced by mercury, became extremely desirous to make proof of the popu- lar belief, that this metal when reduced to a solid state, confers on its fortunate possessor the most extraordinary power, and amongst others that of travelling into the most distant regions of the globe, without other effort than that of the will to do so. The prospect of seeing neigh- bouring kingdoms in all their nakedness was irresistible, and the terms were so easy, and attended with so little labour, as to be quite in- viting even to the phlegmatic imagination of the Pra-klang, whose fat, ponderous, and unwieldy corporation was more than enough to have ex- cited doubts of success. A quantity of the metal was procured. The most expert magi- cians, alchymists, and astrologers were assem- bled on the occasion, but their united skill failed to produce the much desired effect. They boiled, and they roasted, and they tortured in every possible way the stubborn slippery metal, but all to no purpose. The poor Pra-klang, ashamed and disappointed, instead of flying through the air, saw himself reduced to the sad necessity of carrying his unwieldy bulk about the streets of Siam for the rest of his life. Further proofs of the superstitious nature of this people were easily furnished. The belief in the agency of evil spirits is universal, and though AND COCHIN CHINA. 239 disclaimed by the religion of Buddha, they are more frequently worshipped than the latter. Nor will the darker periods of German necromancy and pretended divination be found to exceed, in point of the incredible and the horrible, what is to be observed amongst the Siamese of the pre- sent day. It is usual to inter women that have died preg- nant ; the popular belief is that the necromancers have the power of performing the most extraor- dinary things when possessed of the infant which had been thus interred in the womb of the mother : it is customary to watch the grave of such per- sons, in order to prevent the infant from being carried off. The Siamese tell the tale of horror in the most solemn manner. All the hobgob- lins, wild and ferocious animals, all the infernal spirits are said to oppose the unhallowed deed ; the perpetrator, well charged with cabalistic terms, which he must recite in a certain fixed order, and with nerves well braced to the daring task, proceeds to the grave, which he lays open. In proportion as he advances in his work the opposing sprites become more daring ; he cuts off the head, hands, and feet of the infant, with which he returns home. A body of clay is adapted to these, and this new compound is placed in a sort of temple; the matter is now 240 MISSION TO SI AIM accomplished, the possessor has become master of the past, present, and future. The funeral ceremonies observed on the death of a king are somewhat different from those mentioned above, but the principle is the same. All the people go into mourning. All ranks and both sexes shave the head, and this ceremony is repeated a third time. An immense concourse is assembled to witness the combustion of the body. The ceremony is said to constitute the most imposing spectacle which the country at any time can boast. Within the first enclosure a line of priests are seated, reciting prayers from the sacred books, in a loud voice. Behind them the new king has taken his station. In the succeeding enclosures the princes of the royal family and other persons of distinction have taken their places. It will be seen by the manner in which the funeral-pile is lighted, how much attention has been bestowed upon the arrangement even of the most trivial matters. A train is laid from the pile to the place where the king stands, others to those occu- pied by the princes of the family, with this dis- tinction in their distribution, that the train laid to the king's station is the only one that directly reaches the pile. That of the next person in rank joins this at a little distance, and so of the AND COCHIN CHINA. 241 Others, in the order of rank. These trains are fired all at the same moment. The outer circle of all is allotted to the per- formance of plays, gymnastic exercises, and feats of dexterity, and sleight of hand. The plays are divided into Siamese, Barman, Pegu, Laos, and Chinese ; and they are so called more from the performers being of these several coun- tries, than from any essential difference in the drama. The external forms of reverence for the de ceased king are impressive and unbounded ; and the image formed from his ashes, being placed upon the altar, claims scarce less devotion than that of Buddha himself That during life, while he yet grasped the sceptre, and made his sub- jects tremble, he should impiously assume the attributes of divinity, and claim from the un- willing mind the adoration due only to the Deity, seems even less strange, and less revolting, than this shameful, because voluntary prostitu- tion of human intellect. LAWS. Where the government is perfectly despotic, it will readily be conceived that law and right are but empty names, at least, as far as regards the king, and his under-despots ; that, in fact, power is law, and right, and justice. Yet where the 11 242 MISSION TO SIAAI interests of these are not directly involved, we shall find in the system of laws a marked atten- tion to distributive justice on the part of govern- ment. Necessity itself dictates this policy, with- out which no government could long exist. Under this form of administration the laws are often strictly equitable, and severely just. Yet though the laws are good, the propounders of them are in general corrupt ; and where the channels of justice are tarnished, it matters little to the people that they have derived good laws from their ancestors. ADULTERY. The laws regarding this crime have un- dergone considerable changes, and seem to have kept pace with the state of civilization. Anciently, the punishment was left entirely in the hands of the injured husband, the govern- ment taking no cognizance of the affair. He could put one or both of the offending parties to death in what manner he chose. Compensation in money or goods often reconciled the parties. Subsequently, this unlimited power was taken out of the hands of the individual, and the law declared that the husband had a right to put both the offending parties to death upon the spot, but not one alone. The punishment, to be legal, must have been inflicted instantly, and without AND COCHIN CHINA. 243 deliberation. The present laws have left no part of the punishment in the hands of indivi- duals ; the crime is punishable only by fine. The amount of the fine, though fixed, is in pro- portion to the rank of the criminal. Thus, a man of low rank, offending in this manner, his equal, or one of superior rank, pays two catties of silver, about two hundred Bengal rupees, or twenty-five pounds sterling. A man of rank again pays six catties. It is reckoned a capital crime to seduce any female belonging to the palace. THEFT— DEBT. The laws regarding theft are in many instances particularly severe. After restoring the property or its value to the rightful owner, a fine is im- posed, and the culprit is cast into prison, for a longer or shorter period, during which he is obliged not only to maintain himself, but he is made to pay for light, and even for his lodging. Of the greater number of debtors, begging is the only means of existence. They are supplied with food by the people as they pass along in chains through the bazar. Their necessities im- pel them to greater crimes, and they ultimately become involved in perpetual slavery. Yet the Siamese are undoubtedly a very charitable people, and appear to take delight in assisting the needy, R 2 244 MISSION TO SIAM feeding the hungry, and helping the wretched. Nor is this virtue in +hem connected with osten- tation. Wherever want exists, wherever dis- tress is observed, there their aid is freely bestowed. HISTORY. My information on this subject is extremely scanty, and extends back but a few years. The principal event which has occurred of late years in the history of Siam, is the capture of the old capital Yuthia, by the Barmans, under their ambitious and enterprising leader Luong Pra, whom Captain Symes calls by the name of Alompra. This took place in the year 1767. The king was at the same time taken prisoner, and by this decisive blow, the Barmans may be said to have effected the entire conquest of the country. Yet their footing was insecure. The people were rather dispirited than subdued, and their long-cherished hatred of the Barmans had undergone no change. In this state of things, a leader soon started up amongst them, who though of foreign extraction, speedily acquired influence from success. Pe-ya-tac, the son of a wealthy China-man, by a Siamese woman, had been brought up as a menial in the palace of the king, who became at- tached to him as he grew up. He obtained the AND COCHIN CHINA. 245 government of the province called Muong-tac, where he conducted himself to the satisfaction of his master, and amassed great wealth. The war with the Barmans was soon followed by famine. Pe-ya-tac had, on the approach of the enemy, removed with his wealth to the pro- vince of Chantibond. In this remote quarter, his generosity fed multitudes who were starving. He collected around him the dispirited inhabi- tants, and ventured to make head against the enemy. His first efforts were crowned with success ; his followers increased in number, vic- tory led on to victory, until he saw the enemy expelled, and himself at the head of the nation. He declared himself king, and removed the capi- tal of the kingdom from Yuthia to Bankok. He fortified the place, and built himself a palace which is still to be seen. Every second or third year, he was involved in war with the Barmans, whom he always repulsed. He not only reco- vered all the former dominions of the kingdom, but added to them. Having subdued his ene- mies, he next turned his attention to the peaceful arts. He readily appreciated the superior industry of his countrymen, and granted them peculiar privileges. He behaved with the greatest mo- deration, and is still extolled for his regard of justice. In the latter years of his reign, his conduct S46 MISSION TO SIAM became greatly changed. The combined influ- ence of suspicion and fanaticism rendered him an object of general dread. At the same time the most sordid, avarice took possession of his mind, and led to the commission of numerous acts of cruelty. The father of the present king headed a conspiracy against him, and put him to death. The massacres which took place on this occasion were less numerous than was to have been ex- pected from the existing state of society and public opinion. We know but little of the character of the suc- cessor to Pe-ya-tac, but that the kingdom readily yielded to him. He died in 1782, and the pre- sent king ascended the throne at the same time. The first public act of the present king's reign was inauspicious. He was yet scarcely seated on his throne, before he put to death his nephew, the Prince Chau-pha, with upwards of a hundred persons of rank, who were supposed to be too much attached to the latter. The pretensions of Chau-pha to the throne were, if they had any existence, but ill-supported. His popularity was the cause of his ruin. The death of so many persons of distinction, some of whom had ren- dered themselves famous in war against the Bar- mans, was displeasing to the people, and occa- sioned considerable discontent, which nothing but the subsequent good conduct of the king could have overcome. AND COCHIN CHINA. 247 The present king has been engaged in almost constant wars with the Barmans ; and it is the boast of his reign that he has lost nothing in the contest. The Malay and other dependent states have made no effort to throw off the yoke. Yet the kingdom is but little indebted to the govern- ment for the tranquilhty which it has enjoyed. Nothing can be conceived more weak, or more contemptible, than the measures instituted for its defence. It would seem as if it feared its own subjects as its greatest enemies ; as if it dreaded domes- tic sedition, more than an attack from abroad. The country lies open in every quarter, without even a shew of defence. Thus it must ever be with governments founded on despotism. All confidence must be destroyed, where the interests of the people are trampled upon. REVENUE. The land-tax is paid chiefly in kind. Besides this, a considerable revenue is derived from the privilege of fishing m rivers, and of distilling arrack. Other taxes are levied in a more odious and oppressive manner, as in the case of com- mercial and other monopolies. The principal of these are monopolies of sugar, pepper, benzoin, agila wood, and, in short, of all valuable commo- 248 MISSION TO SIAM dities. They are delivered to the king at a fixed price. Arrack is consumed almost exclusively by the Chinese, and the manufacture of it is entirely in their hands. The privilege of distilling arrack at Bankok, is let for eighteen peculs of silver = 72,000 ticals *, At Yuthia, for . . 6 peculs Sohai . . .1 do. Ta Saim . . . 1 do. Rahain , . . 1 do, Camphen • • • I do. Cha-naat . . . 20 catties Koraat . . , 2 Ban-chang . . c 3 Kan-buri . . . 20 catties Chan-pon . . . 30 do. Pat-thee . . . 20 do. Chia . . . 8 do. To-long . . , 30 do. Fruit trees, &c., are taxed as follows : — 1 Mangoe tree . . 1 fuang t. Mangosteen . 1 do, Durian . . .1 tical each tree. Cocoa-nut , . 1 fuang for eight trees. Arecanut , . 1 do. for 100 trees. Piper betel . . 1 do. do. Tobacco • . 2 fuang s for 100 plants. Sugar cane . . 2 do. per bed. * The tical is about twent3^-five per cent, more valuable than the Sicca rupee. + A fuang is the eighth part of a tical. AND COCHIN CHINA. 249 No other fruits pay duty. The revenue derived from fruit trees alone, is said to amount to 7000 catties of silver. That derived from the gambling houses is said to equal that from arrack. The privilege of fishing in rivers is said to be let for eight peculs. NUMERALS. The notation of the Siamese seems to be ex- actly similar in principle to our own, and is evi- dently derived from the mode used in Sanskrit, from some ancient form of which the notation of Arabia and the west has branched off. 1 Nung. 11 See-bayt. 21 Y-see-boyt. 2 Song. 12 Seep-song. 30 Saam- seep. 3 Saam. 13 Seep-saam. 40 See-seep. 4 See. 14 Seep- see. 50 Haa-seep. 5 Haa. 15 Seep-haa. 60 Hoc-seep. 6 Hoc. 16 Seep -hoc. 70 Chayt-seep. 7 Chayt. 17 Seep-chayt. 80 Payt-seep. 8 Payt. 18 Seep-payt. 90 Kao-seep. 9 Kao. 19 Seep-kao. 100 Roy 1 Seep, 20 Y-seep. DAYS OF THE WEEK. Days. Siamese name. Signification of Siamese name. Sunday . . Van-a-thed . Day of the sun. Monday . . Van-chan . do. moon. Tuesday . . Van-ang-khan do. star ang-khan. Wednesday Van-phoodh do. do. phood]i. S5(5 MISSION TO SIAM Days. Siamese name. Signification of Siamese name. Thursday . Van-pra-hadh Day of the star pra-hadh. Friday . . Van-sookh . do. sookh Saturday . Van-sao . do. sao. NAMES OF THE MONTHS. Months. Siamese name. Literally. January . . Duan-aij. . . 1st. month. February . Duan-jee. 2d. do. March . . Duan-saam. . 3d. do. April . . . Duan-see. &c. &c. May . . Duan-haa. June . . . Duan-hok. July . . Duan.ched. August . . Duan-ped. September . . Duan-kao. October . . Duan-seep. November . Duan-seebet. December . . Duan-seep -song. The Siamese year commences with the first moon in December. At the close of the year there is a grand festival, called the feast of the souls of the dead. At this period also the Siamese propitiate the elements ; the fire, the air, the earth, and water. Water is the favourite element. Rivers claim the greatest share in this festival. Rice and fruits are thrown into the stream ; a thousand fantastic toys are set afloat on the water ; thousands of floating lamps cast a flickering light upon the scene, and the approach of evening is hailed as the season of innocent amusement, as well as of religious duty. AND COCHIN CHINA. 251 The Siamese affect to bestow great attention upon the construction of their calendar. There is little difference between it and that of the Chinese ; and it is very doubtful if they could construct one without the assistance of the latter, which they procure regularly from Pekin. For- merly a Brahman was entertained at court for the purpose of regulating the calendar. That office is now executed by a native of the country, by name Pra-hora. The Siamese years are divided as below into duodecennial periods, thus : Years. Siamese name. In English meaning. 1st. Chouat . k Rat's year. 2d. Cha-lou Cows' do. 3d. Khan Tiger's do. 4th. Tho Hare's do. 5 th. Maron Dragon's do. 6th. Maseng Snakes' do. 7th. Ma-mia Horses' do. 8th. Ma-may Goats' do. 9th. Vock Monkey's do. 10th. Ray-ka Fowls' do. nth. Cho Dog's do. 12th. Khun Pig's do. RELIGION. Our inquiries respecting the origin of the Baud- dhic religion amongst the Siamese have been attended with but little success ; nor do they leave us much ground to hope that any docu- 252 MISSION TO SIAM merits or writings they possess are calculated to throw any certain or steady light upon this in- teresting, but very obscure, subject. The general persuasion amongst the priests, however, is, that it had its origin in the country called Lanka*, which they acknowledge to be Ceylon, for which island they still entertain the highest reverence, and imagine that there the doctrines of their faith are contained in their greatest purity. Others maintain that it had its origin in the country called Kabillah Path, the common name amongst the Siamese for Europe ; while others again assert it to be of domestic origin, and taught by a man sent from God. The person who taught them this religion is known under various names, as, Ong-Sam-ma, Sam Puttho, which is said to mean Omni- potens. Sommonokodam, i. e., one who steals cattle. Phut, and Phuti. (Pati, a lord ?) Pra-phut, the high Lord. Pra-phuti-roop, i. e., the image of the high Lord. Before he was considered sacred, his name was Pra-si Thaat. He is said to have been born of a father called Soori-soo- thoght, and of a mother called Pra-Soori-maha-maya. * The Barmans entertain the highest reverence for Magadha ; a deputation from his Majesty of Ava visited the sacred places in that vicinity a few years ago. Possibly this veneration for locali- ties changes according to political circumstances. AND COCHIN CHINA. 253 Other names of Buddha : — Y-thee-pee-so. Pa-ka-wa. Ora-hang. They state that 2340 years have elapsed since the rehgion was first introduced ; a date which is said to be stated in their sacred books, and particularly in that called Pra-sak-ka-rah, which was written by Buddha himself, or at least under his direction. He commenced the task of converting men, by teaching them a more civilized mode of life, directing them to avoid rapine and plunder ; to cultivate the soil and to lay aside their ferocious manners, and to live in peace with each other, and with all other animals of the creation. His commands were, at first, but five ; they were afterwards increased to eight. The five first alone are essential to the salvation of man, and he who observes them will assuredly merit heaven. These five are more particularly calcu- lated for the lower orders ; but it is very meri- torious to observe the other three. Commands of Buddha : — 1. * Panna Thi-bat, ham-mi klia Satt. You shall not kill an animal or living creature of any kind. * According' to Loubere, this enactment suffers various inter- pretations, sonic abstaining' from feeding- on vegetables so as to hurt the seed, and so, says he, eat only fruit ; others vary the prac- tice of the law in the opposite direction, and hang- tlieniselves out of devotion, which action, if performed on a certain sacred tree, is considered as havinii' ffreat merit. 254 MISSION TO SIAM 2. Ad thi ma than, ham-mi hai lac sab. You shall not steal any thing. 3. Kham-mi sumi cha-chan, ham-mi hai somg sel nai phi ri yan than puun. You shall not have intercourse with the \^aves of other men. 4. Moo-sa va tha, ham mi hai phAt kohoc sab plab. You shall not speak an untruth or any falsehood on any occasion. 5. Sura me rai, hai mi hai duum kin sung nam maou. You shall not drink any intoxicating liquor, or any sub- stance calculated to intoxicate. 6. Ka me sumitsa cham, ham-mi hai non kab mia. During the increase of the moon, you shall not, on the 8th, or on the 15th, have coimexion with woman. N.B. These two days are called von-pra, i. e., Dies Do- mini, the days of the Pra. 7. Vi ka la po chana, ham-mi hai kin khong noek vela. You shall not eat after mid-day. S. Oocha se jana, ham mi hai non niia thiang an vi chit ang gnam. It is not becoming to sleep on costly, soft, rich, and ele- vated beds. You shall sleep on a clean mat. There are, as has been already observed, set days, on which it is proper to worship at the temples, as on the 8th and 15th of the moon. There are also other days that are held sacred, and they are pointed out as such by persons who profess to be acquainted with judicial astrology. This sort of divination, however, is not culti- vated by the priests, who affect to consider it as profane and improper. Yet when the astrologers AND COCHIN CHINA. 2.55 have pointed out particular days as proper for devotion, or as being lucky or the contrary, the priests observe them. It is customary for every Siamese to enter the rank of priests in the course of his life. He may remain in it or leave it at pleasure. PROVINCE OF CHANTIBOONA, or CHANTIBOND. The reverses of fortune which this province has undergone, within a comparatively short period, have been remarkable. It for a long time belonged to the ancient kingdom of Cam- bodia, but on the partition of that admired and beautiful, but unfortunate country, was seized upon by the Cochin-Chinese. It has since passed into the hands of the king of Siam, and has constituted an integral part of his dominions since the reign of the Chinese king. Chantibond is a mountainous country, form- ing the eastern boundary of the kingdom of Siam, dividing it from Cambodia, and situated at the head of the Gulf of Siam. It is said to be one of the richest and most valuable provinces of the king of Siam. It is singularly beautiful and picturesque, diversified by lofty mountains. 256 MISSION TO SIAM extensive forests, and fertile vallies and plains. The passage thence to Cambodia is of short distance, a ridge of mountains dividing the two countries. It possesses a good and convenient harbour, well protected by numerous beautiful islands in front. The river is obstructed in a great measure at its mouth, but affords conve- nient and safe navigation to small vessels and boats. It once possessed an extensive and pro- fitable commerce, which has been upon the de- cline since the place fell into the hands of the Siamese. The produce of the country is an- nually removed to Bankok, and the commerce with foreign ships is prohibited. ■" The principal productions are pepper, the cultivation of which may be increased almost to an unlimited extent, benzoin, lac, ivory, agila wood, rhinoceros' horns, hides of cows, buf- faloes, deer, &c., gamboge, some cardamoms, and precious stones, the latter of inferior quality. The forests abound in excellent timber, and af- ford the best materials for ship-building: ac- cordingly, many junks are built at this place. Many of the islands in front of the port, and particularly that called Bangga-cha, produce abundance of precious stones. The island Sa- ma-ra-yat, to the east of the harbour, is said to produce gold. In the former of these islands, there is a safe and convenient harbour. AND COCHIN CHINA. 257 At a short distance from the coast, there is a very high mountain, called Bomba-soi, com- manding an extensive view both of Chantibond and of Cambodia. The amount of population is uncertain, some stating that it amounts to nearly one million, while others reckon it under half that number. It is composed of Chinese, Cochin Chinese, Cambodians, and Siamese ; but by far the greater number are Chinese, in whose hands are all the wealth, and the richest products of the country. There are also from two to three hun- dred native Christians in the place, who, like those in other parts of Siam, are placed under the care of the bishop of Metellopolis, Joseph Florens, a Frenchman. The place is governed by a man of Chinese extraction, appointed by the king of Siam. Of pepper, the principal object of culture, the annual produce, at the present time, is said to amount to 20,000 peculs. It is sold to the king on the spot, for eight ticals a pecul. The price in Bankok is eighteen. The cardamoms produced in Chantibond are reckoned of inferior quality. Those of Cam- bodia are reckoned the best. They are pur- chased on the spot by the king, for 120 or 140 ticals, and re- sold at Bankok for 270, 280, and s S58 MISSION TO SI AM even 300. They are carried exclusively to China, where they are held in high esteem. The agila wood of Chantibond is reckoned among the best, and is only equalled by that of Cochin China. The consumption of this highly odoriferous substance is very considerable even in Siam, but the greatest part is exported to China. Its use is of the highest antiquity, and it has in general been allotted chiefly for sacred purposes, for the service of the temple, and the solemn ceremonies of funeral rites. Much of it is con- sumed in the combustion of bodies of persons of distinction. The Chinese would appear to use it chiefly in their temples, both public and pri- vate, and as every Chinese house is furnished with a small temple for the reception of their household gods, the consumption of this wood by them must be very extensive. It is used in a very economical and neat mode. A quantity of the wood is first reduced to a fine powder, which, being mixed with a gummy substance, is laid over a small slip of soft wood, about the size of a bull-rush, so as to form a tolerably thick coating. These small sticks are stuck on end in the temple, and being lighted, give out a feeble but grateful perfume, the substance burn- ing with a slow and smothered flame. This sort AND COCHIN CHINA. 259 of taper is made up into bundles, wrapt up in fine paper, and sold in almost every shop. The odoriferous principle in agila wood re- sides in a black, thick, concrete oil, resembling tar or resin while burning *. It is disposed in numerous cells, and gives to the wood a blackish, dotted appearance. It is generally asserted that this is the effect of a disease in the tree ; but the opinion may well be called in question. It would rather seem to be the natural effect of a necessary modification of the living principle of the plant itself, no more partaking of the na- ture of disease than an inevitable and destined change and termination of life can be said to constitute such a state. The odoriferous part is found in comparatively few trees, and those chiefly where the trees have either died, or have been possessed of feeble remains of vitality. The perfect trees, those bearing leaves, or fruit in perfection, rarely possess any part of it : neither does it appear to depend much upon the size of the tree^ small ones often affording it in large quantity, while large ones yield very little or none at all. Is it not probable that it proceeds from an effort of nature to support the feeble remains of vegetable life ? In this case, the juices of the plant, like * It is, perhaps, a combination of an essential oil with resin. S 2 260 MISSION TO SIAM the blood of animals, retreat towards the centre, where they still, for a time, maintain the feeble spark. The oil, in the case of this plant, is secreted in larger quantity ; and accumulating in the thicker and central parts of the tree, and towards the root, forms the substance in question. The Siamese name this substance — Nuga-mai, also, Mai-hoam. For a botanical description of the tree, see Loureiro, page 327. Roxburgh has also described this tree under the title Aguillaria Agallocha. Loureiro states, that a par- ticular, and that the most valuable variety of this wood, is called Colambac, or Calampac. This last is represented by the Siamese as the produce of a tree totally different. The cause which has been assigned above for the scantiness of my information on matters of general interest, will apply with still greater force to the subject of natural history. Ill health, and the restrictions under which we were placed by the government, have rendered this subject almost a complete blank ; a circumstance the more to be regretted, for that we had reason to expect an ample accession to our knowledge in this quarter. The few facts which I have been enabled to collect, I shall now briefly relate. In speaking of the peninsula of Malacca, I have AND COCHIN CHINA. 261 said, that its unfrequented forests seemed to contain zoological treasures yet unknown to us. A similar remark is no less applicable to the kingdom of Siam generally. There seems every reason to believe that an extensive search would be attended with the happiest results to the science of natural history. Restricted as we were from researches of this nature, we have discovered animals in the classes Mammalia, Aves, and Reptilia, which are either imperfectly, or altogether unknown to the European world. Of that uncommon variety of the elephant, the white or Albino, a description has already been given. This, however, cannot be considered other than a variety of the common elephant of the country, which does not appear to differ in any considerable degree from that of Hindostan and Ceylon. All the elephants here were less in size than the Ceylon elephant; their tusks were also shorter, and less curved ; although in one or two of those we saw, a greater degree of symmetry was noticed than is common in this animal. At Bankok, the elephant is hardly available to any useful purpose, few roads existing on which he can walk. They are kept about the palace, and used only on state occasions. The king is said to have a great number in his possession. They are employed as beasts of 98d MISSION TO SIAM burden with the troops in the interior of the country. A description has also been given above, of a species of white Simia. This, likewise, is a genuine Albino. I was informed by several persons, that about two years ago, the king had in his possession an Albino of the deer kind. Albinos among buffaloes are in this country very common, often indeed the most frequent and only variety of that animal, and generally ex- ceeding in bulk the common or original black one. It is of frequent occurrence in the Malay Islands, and in all agricultural countries, from Penang as far east as Java. This prevalence of the leucsethiopic habit among so many of the more perfect and larger animals of the Class MammaHa is deserving of remark. How far the habit is developed by peculiarity of climate, it is difficult to determine ; the geographical limits, however, within which this variety of animal occurs, with unwonted fre- quency, are not very extensive. It is, perhaps, but little connected with this subject to state, that on the coasts of Siam we saw, on two occasions, a species of Porpoise of a white colour, with a slight cast of pink. View- ing these animals from a distance, it is of course impossible to say whether they were of the leuc- sethiopic habit or not. The fact that this dis- AND COCHIN CHINA. 263 tinction has not hitherto been observed in any animal with cold blood, would seem unfavourable to the first supposition. The Royal Tiger is extremely common in the interior parts of the country. Their bones, as well as skins, constitute a considerable article of commerce with China ; and, from the very great numbers in which they are exposed for sale, we may infer their frequency. The bones are said to be used as medicine by the Chinese, and a quantity of them may be seen suspended in every medicine-shop. The Black Tiger is by no means rare. Both this and the former, I con- sider smaller than the Bengal Tiger. Leopards w^ould also appear to be common. Many of the handsomest skins are exposed in the shops on the river. Of this animal I have observed no variety. No Jackalls, Hares, or Rabbits were seen. 264 MISSION TO SIAM CHAPTER VII. Depart from Siam. — Sechano, or Dutch Islands. — Inha- bitants. — Enormous Yam. — Bay of Siam. — Geological Remarks. — Pulo Panjang. — Two Brothers Islands. — PuLo Condore. — Geology. — Inhabitants. — Hospitable Character. — Cape St. James Current. — Bay of Cocoa Nuts. — Geology, &c. — Vung Tao. — Costume. — Governor of Kan-dyn, a Singular Character, takes charge of an Official Communication to the Governor of Saigon. — Inhabitants very polite. — Dress almost exclusively in Silk. — Physiognomy and Form.— Habitations. — Costume. — Shops.— Royal Boats. Our residence at Bankok was not of a nature to excite regret on leaving it. The mean, suspi- cious, and weak conduct of the Government, selfish in all its measures, regardless of the welfare of its subjects, was more calculated to excite feelings of contempt than of respect. The restrictions under which they had placed the members of the mission were certainly un- necessary, and are an additional proof of the weakness, as well as of the ignorance of the Government. All attempts to visit the interior of the country were unavailing. It has already been stated that the Government of Siam is alto- gether despotic^ and circumstances have been AND COCHIN CHINA. 265 related which will throw some light upon the state of manners under this condition of government. I may here briefly remark, before taking final leave of the Siamese, that the manners of the highest ranks are far from engaging. We should here look in vain for that courtly ease, and that polished exterior, so common to almost all Asiatics of high rank. An offensive coarseness, a manifest disregard to the feelings of others, and arrogance unbounded, have usurped its place. Bad government has not been able to produce effects so baneful on the manners of the lower orders of the people. If we except low cunning and falsehood, twin crimes, bred under the wing of despotism, we shall find, in the manners of the latter, more that is deserving of praise than of blame. They are kind and charitable to- wards each other, peaceable and quiet subjects, and remarkable for fidelity and honesty in their transactions. Towards strangers they are affa- ble, and extremely kind, polite, and attentive: they at once inspire them with confidence ; they are communicative and obliging. They have, on all occasions^ appeared to us the more amiable part of the people, and with a very few excep- tions, they were the only class that either shewed us attention, or from whom we could gain any 266 MISSION TO SIAM information. From this class I do not separate the priesthood, in general very attentive to strangers. On our leaving the capital, the Court did not confer the least mark of attention on the mission, not even so far as to learn the period of our departure. Presents for the Governor General, consisting of Elephants' Teeth, Agila Wood, Ben- zoin, Cardamoms, Pepper, Sugar, and Tin, had been previously delivered. The Chief, Suri- Wong, asked Mr. Crawfurd to visit him on the day of our embarkation, and on the following night, Chroma-chit made a similar request. Our departure from Bankok had taken place earlier than we had contemplated, for it had been long maintained by Captain M'Donnel, that the ship could not get over the bar of the river before the month of September. A difference of opi- nion had now occurred amongst the navigators, and it was determined that the trial should be made, after lightening the ship as much as was consistent with safety. The resolution was gra- tifying to all of us. We embarked in the evening of the 14th of July, and on the 16th we began to drop slowly down the river. On the ISth^ we passed * Pack- * Packnam is a term of frequent occurrence in Siam, apparently signifying the mouth of a river. AND COCHIN CHINA. S57 nam, and on the 24th, we crossed the bar. The S. W. monsoon blows right in upon the river, and there is consequently great labour and diffi- culty in warping a ship over a mud-bank up- wards of ten miles in extent. On the 2d of August we moved over to some islands in front of the river, called Sechang, or Dutch Islands, for the purpose of completing our quantity of water, taking in ballast, and fitting the ship for sea, the rigging having been all taken down while she lay at Bankok. On the 4th of August, we anchored in a fine deep bay, formed by the islands just mentioned. We availed ourselves of the necessary delay of the vessel at this place, to make daily excur- sions to the surrounding islands. The name Sechang is properly applicable only to the principal island of the group ; the next in point of size, about a mile distant to the W., is called Ko-kan. The other islands are of trifling extent ; some of them, like the large ones, are covered with rather stunted wood, and others are merely bare rocks, appearing above water. The two larger islands bear marks of a considerable extent of former cultivation, and on both, a few miserable looking inhabitants are still to be found. The quantity of level ground is too scanty to maintain a population of any extent, and the few persons we found here, had been 268 MISSION TO SIAM compelled by the King of Siam to live on the spot. It is difficult to conceive any other motive for this species of banishment, than political am- bition ; for such islands must be totally unpro- ductive to the government. It should at the same time be acknowledged, that nothing is expended in their occupation. Though by their own account compelled to adopt this residence, the few people whom we found here, in appearance, at least, abundantly miserable, seemed to attach no particular hardship to their lot. Upon a small sandy beach, at the northern extremity of Ko-kan, are twelve small huts, with two apartments in each, constructed of palm- leaves, which the occupiers must have carried with them from the inhabited parts of the conti- nent. Of these huts, some were now empty, but a part of the population, consisting of two or three old women, as many old men, and a consi- derable number of sickly children, came out to meet us on our landing. Premature old age had seized upon those that had grown up, whether from the scantiness of their food, its inferior qua- lity, or uncertain supply, or from cares insepara- ble from this rude condition of society, is perhaps doubtful. Their shrivelled limbs, their wrinkled and contracted features, their half-famished forms, their scanty dress, bespoke a people supremely wretched ; yet their wants were but AND COCHIN CHINA. 269 few, nor did they importune us for the gratifica- tion of them. The men that were present were reserved, if not sullen, and viewed us with little interest, or perhaps with suspicion. The women, on the contrary, were evidently pleased at our approach, and gave every demonstration that our visit was welcome to them. Here, where we might have expected selfishness in the most exclusive degree, we were delighted to witness nothing but the most disinterested kindness. A plan- tain, a yam, and a few pepper-corns, reared by their own hands, were, in their eyes, commodities of the highest value, — yet these, though they had but a scanty supply of them, were instantly pro- duced,- and we were eagerly solicited to take them with us. They neither asked for, nor expected any thing in return, and they seemed surprised, as well as delighted, when on a subse- quent visit Mr. Crawfurd made them presents of cloth. Fish forms the principal article of their food, and the surrounding seas afford an abundant supply ; but such is the poverty, or want of energy or ingenuity in these poor creatures, that they are often very ill-supplied from this quarter. These poor people had laid at our feet all that was valuable in their eyes. They gained con- fidence during our visit, and all of them became more familiar. Mrs. Crawfurd had accompanied »rO MISSION TO SIAM US to the village, and her presence conferred a degree of interest upon the scene not easy to be described. The men, stupid with wonder, seemed to look upon her as a being of another creation ; and indeed, if we cast our eyes upon the con- trast in the female forms now before us, their wonder will not appear surprising, and these rude and wretched savages might well doubt that they had but little connexion with our race. Never, per- haps, was savage life more strikingly contrasted with refined ; an accomplished female, brought up in all the elegance and refinement of the first metropolis in the world, stood opposed to the rude, scarce human forms of the savage islanders of the Gulf of Siam ! With more confidence, but with no less sur- prise and wonder, the women and children seemed anxious to approach a form which was eminently pleasing to them, but were withheld by a sort of awe. Such a scene were worthy of the painter's skill. We now ascended, a neighbouring hill, on which were cultivated the Dioscorea alata, Convolvulus Batatus, Zea Mays, and Capsicum. The energy of vegetation in the Dioscorea seemed to have been too great for the moderate share of industry exerted by the natives in their rude agriculture. This luxuriant plant had spread over all the cleared ground, choking every plant near it, and AND COCHIN CHINA. 371 obstructing even its own growth by the over- abundant production of stem. We have ob- served this tendency in the same plant, on the opposite island. Yet it is not to be found in the forest, nor of indigenous growth. I have never seen it but in spots that have once been culti- vated, nor have I observed solitary plants of it. Other species of this genus are common in the forest, and are in general solitary. It is deserving of remark in this place, that we found on the various islands which form this bay, and particularly upon the lesser ones, a considerable number of plants, whose economy bears a striking analogy to that of Dioscorea ; like that useful plant, too, they belong to the natural order Asparagi, of Jussieu. They are all creeping plants, elegant in their form, pro- ducing abundance of fine foliage, ascending to the tops of the tallest trees, often covering them, as it were, with a mantle. The most extraor- dinary of these is a plant bearing affinity both to Dioscorea and to Menispermum, but differing from both in some essential generic characters. The great beauty of the creeping stem, sus- pended in elegant festoons from the branches of the surrounding trees, were sufficient to attract attention. But the most singular property of this herbaceous plant is the disposition which it has of forming tuberous roots of a most extra- 272 MISSION TO SIAM ordinary size, a circumstance the more singular, because, independent of the small size of its stem, scarcely larger than a quill, it is found growing in the most arid and steril situations, without a particle of earth to conceal its roots ; neither are its leaves succulent, nor its stem nor root of a texture apparently fitted to convey a large proportion of vegetable juice, both being rather hard and fibrous. The singular tuberosity of this plant is formed at the exit of the root from the rock or surrounding stones, and is, in general, buried about one-fourth under the sur- face. The part exposed is globular, of a dirty- white colour, warty, and internally the yam is tough and fibrous rather than spongy. One brought on board, on account of its size, weighed 474 lb., and measured 9| feet in circumference ; others, of still greater size, were not uncommon. It will be conceived, that such vast masses of vegetable matter are but little adapted to become the food of man ; it is, however, not altogether neglected for that use, though but rarely had recourse to. For this purpose, the farinaceous matter is separated from the juice, vegetable fibre, and other products, by drying, maceration, ^•c. The root is also used in medicine. Of all the tuberous roots this would appear to be by far the largest and most extraordinary. In other plants of the kind, the tuberosities are AND COCHIN CHINA. 273 proportionate to the size of the plants, and their visible means of nourishment. In this, the yam is of the most gigantic size, and its stem ex- tremely small. The means of nourishment are by no means apparent. Earth and water, the ordinary sources of vegetable nutriment, are al- most altogether wanting ; the stem is not of a structure to require any thing but simple support from the surrounding trees. There remains no visible source but the atmosphere, to which its numerous leaves are amply exposed, through the aid of the surrounding trees. To the botanist these islands afford a most interesting field ; and, notwithstanding the nu- merous visits which we have made to them, much still remains to be done. We never re- turned from them without considerable numbers of plants that were new to us, amongst which there are some undescribed in our systematic catalogues. The islands abound in plants of that beauti- ful natural order Apocynese ; we found several most elegant species of Hoy a amongst them. The plants of the order Euphorbise are still more numerous. Ficus, several tall species. Of the Caprifolia there is a considerable number ; but it is remarkable that Rhizophora is not amongst them, neither are there any plants T ^4> MISSION TO SIAM of similar habits. The absence of alluvial soil upon the sea-coast is probably the cause. We were somewhat surprised to find that there were no palms. We had found them on similar islands not far distant. The AroidesB are numerous ; several of the plants very handsome, exceeding the usual size of plants of that genus. The arborescent form of vegetation prevails, but attains no considerable height. On the larger islands the tamarind-tree occurs frequently, and in situations which might lead us to conclude it to be of indigenous origin. For the most part, however, it is found in places that were formerly cultivated, where they have in all probability been planted. The tree is of incon- siderable size, and produces but little fruit. For a further account of the rich vegetable products of these islands, I must refer to the bota- nical catalogue. The zoology of these islands is scarce less in- teresting, though more limited, than its vegeta- tion. Of the class Mammalia, the number of species is extremely scanty. A species of rat, and a white squirrel, were the only members of this class that occurred to us. The latter is rare, about eight inches in length ; an active, lively, and handsome animal. AND COCHIN CHINA. 2rS A species of white porpoise is common in the seas about these islands. It is of a clear white colour, with a very slight tinge of pink. I esti- mated its length to be about eight or nine feet. Of birds we procured a fine species of black Pelican, a blue-coloured Heron, several specimens of Columba litoralis, and a variety of the same bird of a bluish cast ; another handsome spe- cies of Columba, of an iron-brown colour, a green- coloured species of the same bird ; a species of Falco of a white colour, and a few others, to- gether with some curious fish, of which, as well as of the former, figures have been taken. Amongst the more curious objects, will be found a very beautiful species of Lacerta, and several large species of Cancer, found by the people at the watering-place. Descriptions of these will be found in the catalogues. In the examination of the rocky shores and bare cliffs of Sechang, the geological student will find an ample field for speculation. We have visited few islands whose structure has interested us more. For an account of the mineral masses, see the Catalogue, and the accompanying specimens. I shall here attempt, what these, in their insulated state, are not well calculated to convey, some in- formation respecting their relative position, &c. At various distant points on several of the T 2 270 MISSION TO SI AM islands, are to be seen, chiefly at the time of low water, extensive masses of a coarse-grained granite, abounding in plates of gray and black mica, and possessing a considerable degree of slaty structure, the mica being disposed chiefly in parallel laminae. There is reason to suppose that this rock constitutes the base of the islands, as well as of the bay formed by them. On its horizontal surface, it terminates abruptly, without ascending into elevated or peaked masses, hav- ing a rough, horizontal surface, rarely rising above high- water mark. It is not to be seen at any distance from the sea-shore, being there concealed by the superincumbent rocks. On this horizontal surface of the granite are placed two principal superincumbent rocks, quartz-rock, and granular limestone. These seem to rest alike upon the granite of their base, their relative position being lateral with regard to each other. They are much inter- mixed, and often alternate with each other. The quartz-rock rises into the highest peaks ; the limestone often laps over it, so as to appear to have it for its base. The quartz-rock varies in appearance. The grey and the white are the principal varieties ; in both there is a considerable proportion of cal- careous matter, and they effervesce briskly. Some parts are compact, with a fracture nearly AND COCHIN CHINA. 277 conchoidal ; such are often traversed by small seams of pure white quartz. Other parts are distinctly slaty, and here the strata are displaced, contorted, and curved ; such parts are soft ; pe- netrated by caves of considerable extent. Masses of pure quartz abound in some parts of this rock. The granular limestone is also of various ap- pearance. It is intermixed with small veniform portions of dolomite, finely crystallized. Both the dolomite and granular varieties are com- pletely soluble in sulphuric acid. On the smaller islands, the quartz-rock is in- tersected by retiform veins of iron ore. Both are stratified rocks ; direction of the strata from east to west, dipping to the north. On the morning of the 13th we landed on the principal island, in pursuit of white squirrels. Mr. Crawfurd following a narrow path-way in the jungle, pursued it to the distance of nearly a mile, when it suddenly opened upon a small plain, neatly cultivated with Indian corn, chillies, yams, and sweet potatoes. It was on all sides surrounded by hills and thick woods, and had an appearance of neatness, comfort, and simplicity, calculated to convey an exaggerated, if not erro- neous, notion of its actual state. The cultivated part might extend to eight or ten acres, a space too extensive for the labours of the feeble hands 278 MISSION TO SIAM of its actual occupants, who had been simply left in charge of the rude plantation. These were a very old man and woman, the former a China- man, the latter a native of Laos. They were both nearly blind. The man, on whom we had stolen unobserved, paid at first but little regard to his visitors. The old woman welcomed us with clamorous expressions of hospitality. She lamented that she had nothmg to offer us but some plantains and Indian corn. Their hut, though small, was clean and neat. The transi- tion from civilized life to this rude spot appeared to have occasioned no regrets on the part of either. However miserable the condition of rude life, man easily yields to it. No pair could live in more rude simplicity than this. A few vegetables and the pure stream were their only viands ; the face of unrestrained nature seemed to smile upon them ; yet it was but a fallacious smile ; whatever was necessary for their comfort sprung from the labour of their own hands. Their wants were but few and easily satisfied. They felt the effects neither of luxurious habits, nor of capricious appetites. They Avere exempt from many of the miseries that accompany a more civilized state. Age alone had laid his hand upon them, and they were gradually sink- ing into the grave. Deafness was added to the loss of sight ; yet they complained only of the AND COCHIN CHINA. 279 loss of the latter. They had naught to complain of but the loss of that sweetest of our senses ; that which adds delight to all the rest. The soil was here abundant, and apparently good, consisting of vegetable mould in consi- derable proportion, intermixed with lime and quartz. It was much too good to have been formed from the detritus of quartz-rock. I may express a doubt whether the rock which we have called by that name is fairly entitled to it. In other parts, and particularly on the smaller islands, the soil, on the contrary, is evidently of the nature of that formed from such a rock, — steril, dry, earthless, stony. Several streams of excellent water will be found on various parts of this island, and a very fine one on the east side, to which a foot-path leads from a fine sandy beach. On the sloping sides of the hill at this place, is built a small Pra-cha-di or Dagoba. The junks usually take shelter under a pro- jecting point, which terminates the sandy beach. The place is also convenient as affording excel- lent water. Though it answers their purpose, it will not that of European ships. Our men found out a convenient watering-place, about a mile beyond, on the same side of the island, towards the north. 2S0 MISSION TO SI AM Notwithstanding the apparent natural luxuri- ance of these islands, they will be found, with regard to man, to be rather steril. The pro- portion of level ground is besides very inconsi- derable, and the hills are too steep to admit of easy or profitable culture. It is not therefore likely that they will ever become settlements of any extent on their own account. As a depot favourable to commercial enter- prise, much might be said in favour of their occupation. The bay is spacious and safe at all times, the entrance wide, the anchorage good, the defence of the place would not be difficult. It seems probable that the trade of Siam and of Cochin China might be brought to centre here. It lies quite contiguous to the countries which produce pepper, cardamoms, agila wood. Ben- zoin, &c., articles of great demand in China. The principal island Hes in lat. 13° 12' N., and long. 155° E. August \Ath. — The ship being now completed for sea, weighed anchor, and stood over, with a fair light wind, for the west side of the gulf. On the following morning both sides of the bay were in sight. We were within twelve or fifteen miles' distance of the west coast. Its appearance is singularly picturesque, yet greatly dissimilar from that of the opposite side. The most marked AND COCHIN CHINA. 281 difference consists in the absence of islands on this, while on the opposite they are innume- rable. An extensive low ground, covered with thick woods, stretches along the sea-coast. We could here see abundance of palms growing; the Pal- myra appeared to be the most common. Ap- pearances would lead us to infer this Ioav ground to be well inhabited. The lofty mountains in the back-ground render this country singularly picturesque. Sam-rayot, signifying three hun- dred peaks, the name by which the Siamese designate this tract, is expressive of its appear- ance. The mountain ranges run in the direction of north and south. They are very elevated, extremely rugged on their flanks, as well as summits, projecting into innumerable bold coni- cal peaks. It is perhaps a singular circumstance, considering that the direction of these mountain ranges is from north to south, that they are steepest towards the east, while, of mountains so distributed, it has been observed, that the steepest acclivities lie towards the west. Another singular circumstance in the appear- ance of these mountains, is that of the insulated situation of some of the loftiest peaks, or rather mountains. Three of the latter are perfectly conical, lofty, and very steep, and their position is perfectly insular, miles intervening between 2S2 MISSION TO SIAM them and the mountain ranges from which they stand detached. They are situated upon the flat, apparently alluvial, ground already mentioned. The greater hardness of the granitic mass in these will hardly account for this circumstance. I6th. — Continued our course along the west side of the gulf, until we had nearly gained Point Kui. From this part of the coast we could descry the islands off Cape Liant on the opposite side of the gulf The mountain ranges which were first visible when we were opposite to Sam-ra-yot, stretch southward as far as the eye can trace them, without apparent deviation of form or altitude. On the 17th, we stood over to the opposite coast. We had now the regular monsoon from the south-west. The wind steady, and the sea moderate, but the weather almost constantly cloudy and damp. A small species of swallow abounds in this part of the bay. Several of them alighted on the ship, and suffered them- seh^es to be taken. On the morning of the 19th, Pulo Panjang, an island about three miles long, surrounded by several lesser ones, situated a little way within the entrance of the gulf, and distant from the land on both sides, came in sight. The situation might be considered singular. It has been rarely visited by Europeans, and the accounts AND COCHIN CHINA. 283 we have of it, as well as of its geographical po- sition, are very imperfect. On viewing scenes unfrequented by man, the imagination is but too apt to disappoint the sober expectations of expe- rience. From the familiar and the common, it leaps at once into the extravagant, captivated with the visionary fabric of its own creation. The imperfection of our knowledge, inde- pendent of the peculiar situation of P. Panjang, in an extensive gulf, little subject to the influ- ence of storms, had awakened expectation, which the magnitude of the island, the tabular form of its central range of hills, and the appearance of bold, precipitous rocks, were calculated to aug- ment on a more close inspection. But nature does not always appear under new forms when we most expect them. At four p. m. we cast anchor on the north side of the island, about its middle, and immediately landed. An aspect more steril than ordinary seemed to forbid our approach. The shores were rocky and precipitous, and though there was but little swell in the sea, we found some difficulty in reaching the shore. From the centre of the island to the sea- shore, the land was abrupt and steep, there being not the smallest extent of level ground. It is everywhere covered with vegetation, of which a great part of that nearest the beach and exposed to the direct influence of 2S4 MISSION TO SI AM the monsoon, is stunted, herbaceous, and dis- posed in what may be called laid plains or ledges, as if the herbage had received the impression of pernicious blasts. The coast of this island is everywhere sur- rounded by large fragmented masses of sand- stone, in which there is, on the whole, but little variety of appearance. In situ, it is disposed in large, nearly horizontal, tabular masses, at a distance wearing somewhat of a slaty appear- ance. The sand-stone is for the most part red, at other times white or gray. It is coarse- grained and gritty, presenting no vestige of or- ganic remains ; here and there it is coloured with iron. The cement in most parts seems to be calcareous. Here and there, large masses of conglomerate are found ; the masses that I have seen were all detached, but in some parts the surface of the sand-stone shewed where they had adhered ; the structure of this was complex ; iron seemed to form the cement; rounded peb- bles of quartz, sand- stone, iron ore and jasper, with small bits of clay-slate, form the aggre- gate. Scattered over the beach, there were found masses of coarse jasper. Such were the principal, and almost the only mineral masses exposed to our view, and of which, we have every reason to believe, the whole of the island is composed. AND COCHIN CHfNA. 285 It is not to be expected that such an island as this would afford many zoological specimens. Of the MammaHa, we saw two animals ; a hand- some species of gray-coloured Sciurus, which we had the good fortune to procure, and a small species of Vespertilio, which fluttered about amongst the thickest shades of the forest. Of the Aves, we saw several of that species of Falco taken at the Sechang Islands, the Columba alba in great numbers, and a singular species of Columba, of a black colour and a white tail. All our endeavours to procure the latter were unsuccessful. These, with the blue- coloured Heron, and a small bird of the Passe- rine kind, were all that we saw here. Of vegetable productions, we procured a hardy species of vine, Vitis Labrusca, common in the forest ; it was covered with great quan- tities of grapes, which, though not yet quite ripe, were not ungrateful to the taste. The vine stretches along the trees, often to the distance of fifteen or twenty yards. We found also two species of Palm, and an elegant tree of the Nat. Ord. Guttiferse was dis- covered by Mr. Crawfurd ; its affinity to Garcinia is well marked, but as the leading characters do not agree with those of that plant, it is not improbable that ours will form a new genus. 286 MISSION TO SIAM All elegant species of Begonia, apparently the Begonia crenata, grows in the greatest abundance on the bare rocks, and on the sides of the hills. Pandanus, Sceevola, Ixora, Mo- mordica, Calophylium, and Erythrina, are com- mon here ; but as we had seen all the species to be found here in other places, it is unneces- sary to take further notice of them. A species of Scolopendrium, usually found on trees, is here terrestrial; it grows to an immense size, the fronds being from three to four feet in length; the greater beauty of the frond, and its singular magnitude, are the only circumstances in which it differs from our Scolopendrium vulgare. The Island Pulo Panjang is, on the whole, inhospitable, affording no temptation whatever to man to take up his abode on it. It is unpro- tected against the vicissitudes of the weather, it IS fully exposed to the pernicious influence of either monsoon ; it is steep, rugged, and unpro- ductive, and totally destitute of level ground. It has no safe port, nor convenient anchorage, and the few streams of water that trickle down the rocks afford but a scanty and uncertain supply. The shores of the island are so near to its central ridge of mountains, that but few streams can be formed. We lay off the island all night, and set sail at AND COCHIN CHINA. 287 an early hour on the following morning, after an unsuccessful attempt to procure the black pigeon we had seen here on the night before. Aus:iist 20th. — We continued an easterly course, and about noon had come in sight of False Pub Ubi. About four a. m. of the 21st, we passed the Island of Pulo Ubi, and towards evening, the barren islands called the Two Bro- thers. The latter are abrupt, precipitous, and naked rocks, covered with myriads of a species of Sterna. A large and handsome species of Pelican, with a black body and white bill, was seen flying about here. On the approach of night, we had a distinct view of Pulo Condore, a mountainous island, with a singular sharp peak in its centre. We stood towards the island till we were within six or eight miles of it, when the ship lay-to for the night. On the morning of the 22d, we cast anchor under the shelter of a bold, elevated ridge of mountains, in a spacious and beautiful bay. After breakfast we landed on the rocks opposite, and proceeded along them until we came to an extensive sandy plain. The physical features of Pulo Condore may be described in few words ; the chief charac- teristic being a number of very steep ranges of hills, irregularly distributed, in some parts forming 288 . MISSION TO SIAM semicircular bays, in others narrow inlets, and in the interior disposed in deep basins, ravines, and plains of small extent. It is everywhere covered with vegetation, which on those parts most exposed to the influence of the monsoon is stunted, almost exclusively herbaceous, and dis- posed in numerous narrow and parallel ledges ; while that which grows in ravines, vallies, and other sheltered places, attains a loftier magni- tude. Towards the summits of the hills, there is scarce any vegetation. The paucity of the GramineaB in all these islands, and in all kinds of soil, is a singular circumstance in intertropical vegetation. The peculiar form and modification of vegetable life in the islands we have lately visited, as well as in this, cannot, I imagine, be altogether attributed to the influence of the mon- soons. It seems to me that much is owing to the na- ture of the soil, or more properly of the rocks forming these islands. In all of them the rocks are either strictly primitive, or composed of ma- terials which once constituted such formations. In some the mountain masses are so steep, that whatever soil is formed is constantly carried off into the sea. In others, the mass is of such hardness, as scarcely to yield any detritus for ages. Such is the case here, where the rocks are composed of granite and sienite, so hard as AND COCHIN CHINA. 289 scarce to be fractured by any means. It detaches large and solid masses, but yields little earth. The material is besides unfavourable to the growth of plants. Yet the force of vegetation, aided by the climate, and a constant source of moisture, is such as to overcome every difficulty; and where we should expect nothing but sterility and nudity, we find all is beauty, and life, and luxuriance ; so easily does nature, with means which seem to us impossible, accomplish the greatest ends. Of the geology of this island I have little more to say than has already been mentioned, that the rocks are of the form described, and that they are composed of granite and sienite, both of extreme hardness. On the sea-shore we found, in full blossom, several fine trees, of the Barringtonia speciosa, a tree well deserving of the encomium which its beautiful appearance has elicited from authors. We had found its seeds cast on the shores of islands in the straits of Malacca ; but had not seen the tree till now. We found here several other interesting plants. Amongst them was another species of vine, the fruit of which made an excellent tart. The only quadruped which we saw in the woods, was a large species of black squirrel. A specimen of this animal was caught alive, but u 290 MISSION TO SIAM unfortunately escaped from its cage on board the ship. We were informed that monkeys and wild hogs are to be found on the island, and that of birds there is great variety. After leaving the rocky coast and steep sides of the hills, we came to a sandy plain, several miles long, through which two considerable streams of fresh water discharge themselves into the sea. About the middle of this plain, protected on two of its sides by an elevated sand bank, we discovered the scanty remains of what had once been an English factory or fort. Some native soldiers from Macassar, who had been in the service of our countrymen, rose upon them, and massacred the greater number, a few only es- caping, by flying to their boats. This happened in 1704. At the extremity of this plain we came to a village of considerable size, said to contain 300 inhabitants. It is surrounded by plantations of cocoa-nut trees, which although they grow in great abund- ance, are rather stunted in the stem, and their fruit, as well as the fluid it contains, has a pe- culiar and rather bitter taste. A few scattered plants of the Ricinus communis, Jasminum, and some other low bushes, afford ample shelter to their houses, which are even lower, though neat AND COCHIN CHINA. 291 and apparently comfortable. Here, as in most parts of India, the Vinca rosea grew luxuriously in every part of the village. At the short distance of even fifty yards beyond it, though there was no ascertainable difference in the soil or other circumstances, you look in vain for a single plant. We found here a numerous, interesting, and lively people, who no longer had any complexion of the savage state. The colony was origin- ally from Cochin China, and might be sup- posed to be little less civilized than that accom- plished people ; besides the intercourse with that country is frequent. Some of the inhabitants, however, bore a strong resemblance to the Malay race. A number of boys and girls were en- gaged at play upon the beach ; on our approach they behaved in the most respectful manner, and it was to us a sight as gratifying as it was unexpected, to find so much urbanity, hospi- tality, and politeness in this little community. They left off play on our approach, and being joined by several elderly persons, conducted us to an open hut, with an elevated bamboo floor, in which the chief or governor of the place was accustomed to receive visitors. We were here soon surrounded by a considerable number of respectable people, among whom there were but one or two women, who kept at a distance. U 2 -292 MISSION TO SIAM Here were mained for some time, in expectation of seeing the chief, who was rather tardy in making his appearance. This individual was a fine old man, of an animated and interesting ap- pearance, as, indeed, were the greater number of the people, being equally removed from the clumsy, loutish form and coarse, incurious man- ner of the Siamese, as from the more muscular and developed frame, and the oblique and mo- rose character of the Chinese. All the old men wore a thin, straggling beard. Our friend con- versed with great animation. He had not seen an European ship for many years ; he had been born on the island, which paid a tribute in turtle, and in oil obtained from that animal, to the king of Cochin China. There are several villages on the island, and the total number of the inhabitants is said to amount to 800. They subsist chiefly by the products of their fisheries, which they either carry to Cochin China, or dispose of to junks and coasting praus, in return for grain. The quantity of rice raised in the island is very li- mited. They have some buffaloes ; fowls are common. They raise yams, pumpkins, melons, capsicum, limes, and a little Indian corn. Some cocoa-nuts were brought at our request. On our proposing to visit the houses of the inhabitants, the chief conducted us to his own, the largest and best in the place. A few spears and a tom- AND COCHIN CHINA. 293 torn lay before the door. A number of persons were here assembled, and in one corner of the room were the women of the chief. An old man happening to sit beside me, I endeavoured to converse with him through the medium of signs. He was much pleased with this mark of attention, and paid me many civilities, offering betel and samsoo. I took a piece of coarse white cloth, and wrapt it round his head by way of turban, at which he was quite delighted. He called to a boy, and ordered him to bring a fowl ; it was in vain that I represented to him that I wished for nothing in return, and when I refused his gift, he coolly unfolded the cloth from his head in order to return it. I now gave him a small piece of money, but he was not to be overcome in this way either ; and the only condition on which he would receive this also, was that of my taking two more fowls in return. I might have added other traits of conduct favourable to the candour and disinterestedness of the simple inhabitants of Pulo Condor ; but this one speaks loudly. At parting, the old man extended his arms, and expressed, in very signi- ficant terms, that he had been pleased at our meeting. The principal people, with the chief, proposed to visit us on board. I was happy to find my old friend among the number, and had 29i MISSION TO SIAM the pleasure of giving him great delight by pre- senting him with an English knife. We looked here in vain for the grape men- tioned by Dampier, as growing on trees in the woods. We found a species of vine, however, which afforded a grape of tolerable size, and not ungrateful to the taste. We saw numbers of trees in the forest, which the natives had cut in the manner mentioned by Dampier, for the pur- pose of obtaining a sort of resin or pitch. In the evening we sailed from this place, and passed out through a wide channel towards the north, with islands on each side. On the morning of the 23d, the high land of Cape St. James was in sight, and on the even- ing of the same day we came to anchor some miles off from the mouth of the river. Cape St. James is the extremity of a ridge of hills of mo- derate height, (about 300 feet,) forming the left bank of the mouth of the river. It is seen at a great distance ; the land on the opposite side of the river is extremely low, and an extensive sand bank stretches out in front of this low land to the distance of several miles. This bank produces a singular effect at the period of ebb tide. As we were sailing along, at some distance from its outer edge, the depth of water being eleven fa- thoms, we observed the sea towards the land to AND COCHIN CHINA. 295 be of a muddy colour, and its edge quite abrupt and defined. On its border there was a distinct ripple with a slight noise, and the whole extended as far as the eye could reach. It was in rather quick motion, and advancing towards the sea, and soon left us in the middle of it. I have seen currents similar to this, but of less extent, off the Maldive Islands. On the 24th we came to anchor, near to the Bay of Cocoa-nuts, a few miles within Point St. James, and with the evening tide stood up the river to a village called Kan-dyu. From Cape St. James to this village, the distance is about nine miles. The river here forms a fine, spaci- ous, and beautiful bay, of a semi-circular form, being bounded on the left by the ridge of hills already mentioned. While the ship lay at an- chor near to the Bay of Cocoa-nuts, we landed on the rocks opposite. The formation of the rocks here approaches very nearly to that which we had observed at Pulo Condor ; the materials of the granitic com- pounds were however differently aggregated, and the mass here was more easily frangible than in the former place. Granite and sienite were the only rocks we discovered ; in both, small veins of a rich iron ore were observable. The granite was seamed in every direction ; and it was not 296 MISSION TO SIAM possible to say that either rock was stratified. They appeared to exist in equal quantity, and to alternate with each other on the rounded sides of the hills. We found the bamboo growing in abundance on the hills, and in a few places the Nipa fruti- cans. We found also an elegant species of Tra- descantia, with a blue flower. We could hear the notes of the jungle cock, or Phasianus gallus, in the woods, but there were on the whole very few birds to be seen here. As the ship was proceeding up the river with the tide, a boat came off from the village of Vung-tao, in which was an old man and six or seven others. The visit, it would appear, had been voluntary on their part ; they wished to point out what they considered to be the proper course of the ship, and seemed very anxious to procure our continuance near their village during the night. The people of this boat were affable, and remarkably polite and animated, but rather too loquacious. They were all decently clad ; their common dress consisted of a close shirt of black or white cotton cloth, which reached down to the thighs ; a pair of coarse loose trowsers, which reached to the knee, and a piece of coarse cloth or handkerchief, wrapped round the head. Persons in better cir- AND COCHIN CHINA. 297 cLimstances wear a black crape turban of large size, and the other parts of their dress are made of silk. These men stated that the principal person in authority here, resided at Kan-dyu. They of- fered to take a letter to him, which was sent. On the 25th, the Chief of Kan-dyu paid us a visit on board, and took charge of an official communication, written in English and French, to the Governor of Lower Cochin China, who re- sides at Saigon. Mr, Crawfurd was naturally anxious to see that city, the first in the empire, in respect of commercial importance ; and in his communication requested permission to visit the place, and to confer with the Governor on the subject of his mission. Whilst we waited here for an answer from Saigon, we paid occasional visits to the neigh- bouring village of Kan-dyu, built upon the banks of a creek, in a situation somewhat swampy, the banks being shaded with mangrove. The man- ners of the people here were so different from those of the Siamese, that we could not but feel both surprised and pleased at the contrast. The Governor of Kan-dyu is a singular character in many respects : he is upwards of sixty years of age, has a long, spare, lanky visage, in which he exhibits, in the most lively and animated manner, a considerable variety of passion. It was truly 898 MISSION TO SIAM ludicrous to see with what rapidity his features passed from the serious to the whimsical, from vacancy to the intensity of anger or disap- pointment. The manners of the people in gene- ral were polite, I should say refined ; they were kind, attentive, and obliging ; they courted rather than shunned our society, and seemed to have less of the weakness or ostentation of na- tural pride than any of the tribes we had yet met. Their curiosity was naturally excited by the contrast which they could not but draw be- tween themselves and us, but in the gratification of this feeling, or in its expression, was neither coarseness nor absence of good-breeding; and the greatest liberty they ventured to assume was that of simply touching our dress, with the design, I presume, of ascertaining the materials of its texture, they themselves having little no- tion of any other fit for this purpose than silk, in which all ranks are almost exclusively clothed. In point of stature, the Cochin-Chinese are below the standard of the Malays and Siamese ; they are at the same time less bulky, and less clumsily made, yet even they too have something of squatness in their figure. The general form of the face is round, and that in an extraordinary degree ; it is short, the direct and transverse diameters being very nearly equal. The fore- head is short, but broad ; the cheek-bones wide. AND COCHIN CHINA. 299 not particularly salient; the chin is large and broad; they want the fulness of the coronoid process of the lower jaw, so large in the Malays and Siamese. The affinity to the Tartar race is obvious, but less so than in the former. The beard is grisly and thin ; the hair coarse, copious and black ; the eyes are more round than those of the Chinese or Siamese, they are also smaller, but more lively ; they are, as usual, intensely black. The nose is small, but well formed, with- out flatness or alar expansion ; the lips are mo- derately thick ; the cheeks are destitute of hair, and the beard, as has been said, is very scanty. The general form of the head is globular. There is no unusual degree of obesity at any age. In females, at an early period, it is, how- ever, more developed than in men. The body is well proportioned, and the limbs are well made, though for the most part small. The colour is remarkably fair ; in many it is more so than is that of the inhabitants of the southern parts of Europe. They are good-natured, polite, attentive, and indulgent to strangers. Their manners are agreeable, and they are for the most part found in a lively, playful humour, and strongly dis- posed to indulge in mirth. They are the gayest of Orientals, yet the transition from mirth to sorrow, and the more hateful and mean passions. 300 MISSION TO SIAM seems to cost them nothing ; it is as rapid as it is unaccountable, insomuch that to a stranger their conduct appears quite unreasonable, as well as fickle. Like the monkey race, their attention is perpetually changing from one object to another. The houses are large and comfortable, con- structed in general with mud walls, and roofed with tiles. The palm-leaf is but little used. The interior disposition of the house is some- what peculiar. About one half forms an open hall, in which they receive visitors, transact busi- ness, and, if shop-keepers, dispose their wares. In the back part of this hall is placed an altar, and other emblems of religion. The private apartments are disposed in recesses behind; these are in the form of square chambers, open on one side only. Their beds are formed of a bench raised about a foot, and covered with mats. The costume of the Cochin Chinese is more convenient than elegant. In both sexes it is much alike, consisting of two or more loose gowns with long sleeves, reaching to the knee, and buttoned close round the neck. Beneath this they wear a pair of wide pantaloons, and, on occasions of ceremony, persons of distinction throw a large black mantle of flowered silk over the whole. The head is covered with a turban AND COCHIN CHINA. 301 of crape ; that of the men is in general black. Over the turbans, females wear a large hat, si- milar to a basket. Dress is with all ranks an object of great attention ; even the poorest among them are clothed from head to foot, and the populace thus make a more decent and respectable appearance than other eastern nations. At this place we entered several of the houses, and were entertained with kindness and hospi- tality. The bazar of Kan-dyu is well supplied with fish, ducks, fowls, eggs, and whatever else is necessary for the comfort of the natives. The shops are individually poor, and almost every house is a shop. They are in general held by women. If they furnish little to gratify the curiosity of a European, they supply in abun- dance all that is necessary and useful to the native inhabitants. The practice of smoking to- bacco is universal, as is that of chewing betel. Their cheroots are made by wrapping the tobacco up in paper. On the morning of the 28th of August, an answer was received from the Governor of Saigon, who despatched a mandarin of rank to wait upon the Agent to the Governor General, and to invite him to visit the city. He was ac- companied by several lesser mandarins, and had brought with him three large, handsome. 302 MISSION TO SIAM and highly ornamented barges, for the accommo- dation of the Agent to the Governor General. The larger contained from thirty to forty rowers each. The rowers were dressed in coarse red cloth, faced with yellow. They wore a light cap, surmounted with a plume of feathers. Thus dressed, they made a very handsome appear- ance. Every thing here is done by soldiers; the meanest offices fall to their lot, and these rowers were a detachment of the mihtary force, Mr. Crawfurd was doubtful whether he should have time to visit Saigon, as it was possible he might be delayed there, until it was too late to get to Turon, the south-west monsoon being about to cease. The mandarin assured him that he should be permitted to return in three days, and used such arguments as convinced us that they were very anxious that he should visit the Governor of Saigon. On this assurance of the mandarin, Mr. Craw- furd consented to go, and asked me to accom- pany him. Being uncertain how we should be received, he left instructions with Captain Dan- gerfield to sail in the course of ten days, in the event of his not hearing from him in that time ; to proceed to Turon, and to communicate his arrival to the court. Lieutenant Eutherford was to accompany him. Mrs. Crawfurd remained also on board. AND COCHIN CHINA. 303 CHAPTER VIII. Thb Author proceeds to Saigon. — River of Saigon.— Saigon. — Superstitious Emblems. — M. Diard. — Cochin Chinese Females and Morality. — Markets, — Manufac- tures. — Bingeh and Saigon. — Fort. — Conference re- specting THE Governor General's Letter. — Retinue OF THE Mandarins. — Hospitality of the Chinese Set- tlers. — Audience of the Governor op Saigon. — Combat between a Tiger and Elephants. — Proceed to Turon. — Coast of Cochin China. — Fishing Tribes. — Boats. — Turon Bay. — Geology, &c. — Visit Turon. — A limited Number allowed to visit Hue. — Wretched Accommoda- tions for the Passage. At six, P.M., we left the ship, a salute being fired on the occasion, and the ship's crew giving us three cheers. The barge selected for our ac- commodation was comfortably as well as ele- gantly finished. Continuing to row all night, notwithstanding that it rained incessantly, we were at day-light but a short way from Saigon, and reached it at nine, A. M. Each boat is fur- nished with a suitable number of officers. The discipline of the men rests chiefly with the se- cond, whose rank may be equal to that of Ser- jeant or corporal. He cheers the rowers by the repetition of a few wild notes, which can scarce 304 MISSION TO SIAM deserve the name of a song ; and he beats time to the stroke of the oar by means of two short sticks of hard wood. The discipUne of these soldiers is severe, for even this petty officer has the power of inflicting several hundred lashes of the rattan for slight offences. The rattan is kept in constant exercise, as we found on our arrival at the town. The river of Saigon is about the size of that of Siam, but appears to carry a greater body of water. It is navigable to ships of all sizes. It is less tortuous than most rivers, and its waters are less turbid. Its banks are mostly covered with mangrove. We found amongst them a very elegant species of Rhizophora, but observed no cultivation until we were within twenty or thirty miles of the town. The number of boats that were passing and repassing was but infre- quent. As we approached the town, we were surprised to find it of such extent. It is built chiefly on the right bank of the river. We had already passed a distance of several miles, and were still in the midst of it. The houses are large, very wide, and for the climate, very com- fortable. The roof is tiled, and supported on handsome large pillars, of a heavy, durable, black wood, called Sao. The walls are formed of mud, enclosed in frames of bamboo and plastered. The floor is boarded, and elevated AND COCHIN CHINA. 305 several feet from the ground. The houses are placed close to each other, disposed in straight lines, along spacious and well-aired streets, or on the banks of canals. The plan of the streets is superior to that of many European capitals. We were now conducted to a house that had been prepared to receive us. Several thousands of the people, besides a numerous guard of soldiers, armed with lances, were collected to receive us. The crowd conducted themselves with a degree of propriety, order, decency, and respect, that was alike pleasing as it was novel to us. All of them were dressed, and the greater number in a very comfortable manner. They all appeared to us remarkably small ; the ro- tundity of their face, and liveliness of their fea- tures, were particularly striking. The mandarin who had accompanied, conducted us to our house, and placed us in the hall, upon benches covered with mats, opposite to each other. A number of people were in attendance to take up our baggage, and to make such arrangements in our quarters as we should deem necessary. The house was one of the best in the place. It was difficult to say, whether it partook more of the temple, or of the court of justice. In every house, in every building, whether public or pri- vate, even in the slightest temporary sheds, is placed something to remind you of religion, or, X 30a ailSSION TO SIAM to speak more accurately, of the superstitious disposition of the people ; and, as the emblems of this nature have for the most part a brihiant appearance, they produce an effect as agreeable to the first glance as it is striking. At one end of this hall was an altar, dedicated to Fo, orna- mented with various emblematical figures, and hung round with inscriptions. It was easy to perceive, that affairs of state and of religion were here inseparable. Each partakes of the same gold and the same varnish. Immediately behind this, were placed our private apartments. A crowd of soldiers at all times fiUed the court and the ante-room, and a guard was placed in attendance at the gate and wicket. At noon, two mandarins of justice came to confer with the Agent to the Governor General. We received them upon our benches, immedi- ately in front of the altar of Fo. They were men that had passed the age of fifty, short in stature, of easy and affable manners. They were dressed in black turbans, and black robes of silk. They commenced the conversation by making inquiries respecting our accommodations ; then turned to the objects of the mission, in- quiring how long since we had left Bengal ; whe- ther the letter for the king of Cochin China was from the king of England, or from the Governor General of India ; what were the precise objects AND COCHIN CHINA. 307 of the mission ; whether we had orders to visit Saigon, or the contrary ; and if we had been at the court of Siam. To all of these queries the answers were so plain and so candid, that it seemed impossible they could either misunder- stand or misrepresent them. On one or two subjects, they shewed the greatest anxiety. We were earnestly and repeatedly asked, if we came into their country with friendly or with hostile intentions. This subject was urged with so much earnestness, that it was impossible not to forgive their fears, though groundless, and to participate in feelings which appeared to pro- ceed solely from the love they bore their country. They now requested that the letter to the king of Cochin China should be sent for, in order that the Governor or Viceroy of Saigon might be enabled to forward a translation to court, toge- ther with a full report upon the subject of our visit, but it was thought improper to comply with this request for the present. They seemed quite satisfied with the answers that were given, and continued the interview for nearly six hours, conversing almost all the while on matters of business. Before their departure they ordered provisions for our use ; and soon after arrived a living pig, ducks, fowls, eggs, sugar, plantains, and rice. In the evening, we were visited by M. Diard, X2 30S MISSION TO SIAM a lively and well-educated Frenchman, of the medical profession, who had been led into these countries by his desire to prosecute subjects of natural history. He had already traversed most of the Indian islands, in which he has made numerous and valuable zoological discoveries, the subject which has principally attracted his attention. Already he has discovered four or five new species of Simla, and as many species of the genus Sciurus. In Java, he discovered that the large deer of that place was a species altogether unknown to naturalists. He thinks that he has discovered a fourth species of Rhino- ceros, and is satisfied that the Sumatran species is a distinct one. The number of new species of birds which he has discovered is very considera- ble. M. Diard is evidently a man of great en- terprise and acuteness, and admirably qualified for the arduous pursuit in which he is engaged. He is fond of adventure, and ingenious in over- coming obstacles. From him we may expect a full account of the zoology of these countries. He has wisely assumed the costume, and adopted the manners of the people among whom he re- sides. If there be any thing amiss in the cha- racter of Diard, it is, (and it is with hesitation and doubt that I make the remark,) perhaps, a disposition to over-rate the number, extent, and value of his discoveries ; and perhaps too, an AND COCHIN CHINA. 309 ardour of zeal, which may be apt to lead one beyond the precise limits of accurate observa- tion. He has been about a year in Cochin China, and four months at this place. It is with the greatest difficulty that he can obtain from the government permission to visit any part of the interior. He had but very few objects of natural history, in consequence, to shew us. Aitgust 30th. — On going out in the morning, the guard placed at the gate seemed doubtful whether he ought to let me pass. On my ap- proach, however, he drew back respectfully ; but strenuously objected to allow any of our people to pass the gate, till seeing me wait for the painter, he permitted him to accompany me. An early visit to the market-places served to confirm the observations I have already made respecting the manners of the people. The Cochin Chinese cannot, I think, be considered as a handsome people in any way, yet, amongst the females, there are many that are even hand- some, as well as remarkably fair, and their manners are engaging, without possessing any of that looseness of character which, according to the relation of French travellers, prevails amongst this people. The conduct of both sexes is agreeable to the strictest decorum. Chastity, in which they have been accused to be wanting, would appear to be observed, in the married aid MISSION TO SIAM state, with as much strictness as amongst their neighbours, or any other Asiatic nation. The breach of it is held criminal, disgraceful, and liable to punishment. It is not so, however, with regard to young and unmarried females. Here the utmost latitude is allowed, and, for a trifling pecuniary consideration, the father will deliver up his daughter to the embraces of the stranger or visitor. No disgrace, no stigma^ attaches to the character of the female, nor does this sort of connexion subsequently prevent her from procuring a suitable husband. Such commodities as are used by the natives were to be found in great abundance in every bazar. No country, perhaps, produces more be- tel or areca-nut than this. Betel-leaf less abun- dantly ; fish, salted and fresh ; rice, sweet pota- toes, of excellent quality, Indian corn, the young shoots of the bamboo, prepared by boiling ; rice, in the germinating state, coarse sugar, plantains, oranges, pumeloes, custard apples, pomegra- nates, and tobacco, were to be had in the great- est quantity. Pork is sold in every bazar, and poultry of an excellent description is very cheap. Alligator's flesh is held in great esteem, and our Chinese interpreter states that dog's flesh is sold here. The shops are of convenient size, in which the wares are disposed to the best advantage. One AND COCHIN CHINA. 311 circumstance it was impossible to overlook, as it exhibits a marked difference of taste and man- ners in this people from that of the nations of India. Articles of European manufacture have, amongst the latter, in many instances, usurped the use of their own ; and you can scarce name any thing of European manufacture which is not to be had in the bazars. Here, with the sole exception of three or four case bottles, of coarse glass, there was no article whatever to be found that bore the least resemblance to any thing European. A different standard of taste pre- vails. A piece of cotton cloth was scarce to be seen. Crapes, satins, and silks, are alone in use, the greater number of them the manufacture of China or of Tonquin, there being, in fact, little or no manufacturing industry here. The articles which they themselves had made were not numerous. I may specify the follow- ing : handsome and coarse mats, matting for the sails of boats and junks, coarse baskets, gilt and varnished boxes, umbrellas, handsome silk purses, in universal use, and carried both by men and women ; iron nails, and a rude species of scissors. Every thing else was imported from the surrounding countries. In exchange, their territory affords rice in abundance, cardamoms, pepper, sugar, ivory, betel, S'c There are a few wealthy Chinese who carry on an extensive 312 MISSION TO SLVM trade here ; the bulk of the people is miserably poor, and but few amongst them are in a con- dition to trade but upon the most limited scale. Few of the shops in the bazars appear to contain goods of greater value than might be purchased for forty or sixty dollars, and the greater number are not worth half that sum. It is difficult to conceive that a population so extensive can exist together in this form, with trade on so small a scale: there are, in fact, two cities here, each of them as large as the capital of Siam. That more recently built is called Bingeh ; the other, situated at the dis- tance of a mile or two, is called Saigon. The former is contiguous to a fortress which has been constructed of late years, on the principles of European fortification. It is furnished with a regular glacis, wet ditch, and a high rampart, and commands the surrounding country. It is of a square form, and each side is about half a mile in extent. It is in an unfinished state, no embrasures being made, nor cannon mounted on the rampart. The zig-zag is very short, the passage into the gate straight ; the gates are handsome, and ornamented in the Chinese style. •We could not procure any information respecting the population of the two cities. A mandarin of higher rank, together with the two we saw yesterday, came to transact business AND COCHIN CHINA. 313 with the Agent of the Governor General ; a pro- tracted conversation, in all respects similar to that which had taken place yesterday, was com- menced by him. He insisted that the letter, as well as Mr. Crawfurd's credentials, should be sent for ; this point was acceded to, and a boat was immediately despatched to the ship, for the letter to the King of Cochin China. The man- darins continued with us till a late hour in the evening. 31.s^, at eleven a. m. — The letter arrived, and in the course of an hour thereafter, the man- darins who had visited us first, came to ascertain its authenticity, and to report upon the contents of it. It was late in the evening before they could be made to understand the subject of it, or the nature of the Governor General's proposals respecting commerce. An English copy of the letter, and translations in Portuguese and Chi- nese, were furnished to them. M. Diard was present at, and took a part in, the conferences that were held with the mandarins. Sept. \st. — It would appear that the Governor of Saigon had no objections to offer upon the subject of the documents which had been fur- nished yesterday ; a mandarin now returned for copies of them, stating that those which had been first furnished were to be immediately despatched to Court. As soon as these had been furnished. 814 MISSION TO SI AM we set out in a boat with M. Diard, to visit Saigon. The distance of this town from the citadel is about three miles, but there are houses along the banks of the river the greater part of the way. The paucity of junks and coasting vessels in the river was accounted for by the lateness of the season. The number of boats that were passing and repassing was, however, very considerable. The country here presented the appearance of extreme fertility ; tlie banks were covered with areca and cocoa-nut trees, plantains, jack, and other fruit-trees. Numerous navigable canals intersect the country in every direction, offering every facility for the increase of commercial industry. Here, as in Siam, the more laborious occupations are often performed by women, and the boats upon the river are in general rowed by them. A practice, as ungallant as it is unjust, prevails both here and in Siam ; that of making females only to pay for being ferried across rivers, the men passing always free. The reason alleged for the practice is, that the men are all supposed to be employed on the King's service. It is lamentable to observe how large a proportion of the men in this coun- try are employed in occupations that are totally unproductive to the state, as well as subversive of national industry. Every petty mandarin is attended by a multitude of persons. AND COCHIN CHINA. 315 The town of Saigon is built upon a consi- derable branch of the great river, and upon the banks of numerous canals. It is the centre of the commerce of this fertile province, the town of Bingeh being but little engaged in such pur- suits. A few settlers from China carry on trade on an extensive scale, but the Cochin Chinese are for the most part too poor to engage in occu- pations of this nature. We landed about the middle of the town, and after proceeding a short way, we entered the house of a Chinese. He received us with great civility, and invited us to partake of re- freshments ; he said that he was anxious for traffic with the English, and had now upon his hands commodities suited for that trade. We passed several hours in visiting various parts of the town, and returned to our quarters in the evening highly gratified with all we had seen, and with the most favourable impression of the manners and disposition of the people. The attention, kindness, and hospitality we ex- perienced, so far exceeded what we had hitherto observed of Asiatic nations, that we could not but fancy ourselves among a people of entirely different character. We were absolute strangers, who had come to pass a few hours only in the town ; yet in almost every street we were invited by the more wealthy Chinese to enter their 316 MISSION TO SIAM houses, and to partake of refreshments. They could not have known beforehand that we were to visit the place, yet some of the entertainments laid out for us were in a style of elegance and abundance that bespoke the affluence, as well as the hospitality, of our hosts. Amongst others, we were invited by three brothers who had been settled in the country for some time. They wore the Cochin- Chinese dress, and in appearance differed but little from the native inhabitants. Their manners were engaging, perfectly easy and polite ; their house was both handsome and spacious, nor did any thing appear wanting to render it a very superior mansion, even in the opinion of an European. They received us in a large, well furnished ante-room ; a table was soon covered with a profusion of fruit, the most delicate sweet- meats, and a variety of cakes and jellies. They insisted upon attending us at table themselves, nor could they be induced to seat themselves while we were present. Tea was served out to us in small cups ; a large table was also spread for our followers, who were supplied with sweet- meats in profusion. Our hosts conversed but little ; they were apparently as much pleased with our visit, as we with the kind reception they had given us. Let others say from what motives so much AND COCHIN CHINA. 317 hospitality and attention were bestowed upon perfect strangers by these intelligent and liberal- minded Chinese ; for my own part, I must do them the justice to believe that they were of the most disinterested nature. The bazars of Saigon contain in greater abundance all that is to be found in those of Bingeh. Coarse china and Tonquin crapes, silks and satins, Chinese fans, porcelain, &c., are the more common wares in the shops. The streets are straight, wide, and convenient. The population extensive. We entered a very hand- some Chinese temple, built in good taste, and highly ornamented. The Cochin Chinese tem- ples, though apparently dedicated to the same objects of worship, are of inferior appearance. Sept. 2d. — We were told that the Governor would give an audience to the Agent of the Governor General at an early hour. About ten a.m. the mandarin, who had conducted us from the ship, came to say that the Governor waited our arrival. Being asked what conveyance had been prepared for us, he said that we must pro- ceed on foot. This being objected to, five ele- phants were sent for. These were furnished with haudahs, such as are used by the natives of India. A few minutes brought us into the citadel, where the Governor resides. His house, though large, is plain, and without ornament, in 318 MISSION TO SIAM the interior or exterior. It is situated nearly in the centre of the fort, in an open space. When we had arrived within fifty yards of the entrance, we were requested to descend from our ele- phants, and to proceed the remainder of the way on foot. A crowd of soldiers, armed chiefly with spears, occupied both sides of the court. The Governor, surrounded by the mandarins, was seated in a large hall, open in front. We ad- vanced directly in front of him, and taking off our hats, saluted him according to the manner of our country. Chairs had been provided, and we took our seats a little in front, and to the right of the mandarins. In the back part of the hall sat the Governor, upon a plain, elevated plat- form, about twelve feet square, and covered with mats, on which were laid one or two cushions. On a lower platform to his left, and a little in front, was seated the Deputy Governor, a fine- looking old man, who appeared to have passed the age of seventy. Directly opposite to the latter about a dozen mandarins, dressed in black silk robes, were seated in the Indian manner, on a platform similar to that opposite ; and behind these stood a number of armed attendants, crowded into one place. In front of the Governor, two Siamese, who had come hither on their pri- vate affairs, lay prostrate on the ground, in the manner that they attend upon their own chiefs. AND COCHIN CHINA. 319 The Governor of Saigon is reputed an eunuch, and his appearance in some degree countenances that notion. He is apparently about fifty years of age, has an intelligent look, and may be esteemed to possess considerable activity both of mind and body : his face is round and soft, his features flabby and wrinkled; he has no beard, and bears considerable resemblance to an old woman : his voice, too, is shrill and femi- nine ; but this I have observed, though in a less degree, in other males of this nation. His dress is not merely plain, but almost sordid, and to the sight as mean as that of the poorest persons. He had requested that the letter from the Governor General of Bengal should be brought with us to the audience. Seeing it in my hand, he inquired what it was I held ; and having ex- amined the gold cloth in which it was contained, he returned it, at the same time observing that having, according to the custom of the country, taken copies, it must not be again opened. He now inquired how long it was since we left Calcutta, and what our respective ages were. He observed that it was customary for kings only to write to kings ; — " How then," said he, " can the Governor General of Bengal address a letter to the King of Cochin China ?" He seemed to comprehend what the objects of the mission were, and to view them in a favourable light. " All 320 MISSION TO SIAM , ships," he observed, " are permitted to trade with Cochin China. If, " he continued, *' the subjects of the King of Cochin China visit Ben- gal or any other British settlement, it is right that while there they should be amenable to the laws of the country, and be judged by them. In like manner the subjects of other nations resort- ing to Cochin China must be governed and judged by the laws in use in that country ; that otherwise there could be no strict justice." He asked if we were going direct to Turon, or the port of Hue, and what conduct the Agent of the Governor General meant to pursue on arriving at that place. He was told that a report of our arrival should be immediately forwarded to court from that place ; on which he observed that the mandarin of elephants was in charge of matters of this nature, and would give all requisite in- formation on the subject of commercial affairs. I have above described, in general terms, the nature and extent of the conversation that transpired. The mandarins appeared to be perfectly at their ease in the presence of the Governor, exhibiting neither fear nor awe of any kind. They frequently addressed questions to us during the interview. The conversation was carried on through the medium of the Portuguese language, by means of a native called Antonio. Towards the close of the conversation, M. AND COCHIN CHINA. 321 Diard came in, dressed in the style of a mandarin, and took his seat beside us. Tea was offered to us, according to the usual custom. In front of the hall was a cage containing a very large tiger, which the governor had caused to be caught, in order that he might exhibit to us a fight between that fiercest of animals, and the elephant. We were asked if the spectacle would be agreeable to us, and on our replying in the affirmative, he gave the necessary directions on the subject. In the midst of a grassy plain, about half a mile long, and nearly as much in breadth, about sixty or seventy fine elephants were drawn up in several ranks, each animal be- ing provided with a mahawat and a hauda, which was empty. On one side were placed convenient seats ; the governor, mandarins, and a numerous train of soldiers being also present at the spectacle. A crowd of spectators occupied the side opposite. The tiger was bound to a stake, placed in the centre of the plain, by means of a stout rope fastened round his loins. We soon perceived how unequal was the combat ; the claws of the poor animal had been torn out, and a strong stitch bound the lips together, and pre- vented him from opening his mouth. On being turned loose from the cage, he attempted to bound over the plain, but finding all attempts to extricate himself useless, he threw himself Y ass MFSSJON TO ST AM at lengtli upon the grass, till seeing a large elephant with long tusks approach, he got up and faced the coming danger. The elephant was by this attitude, and the horrid growl of the tiger, too much intimidated, and turned aside, while the tiger pursued him heavily, and struck him with his fore paw upon the hind quarter, quickening his pace not a little. The mahawat succeeded in bringing the elephant to the charge again before he had gone far, and this time he rushed on furiously, driving his tusks into the earth under the tiger, and lifting him up fairly, gave him a clear cast to the distance of about thirty feet. This was an interesting point in the combat ; the tiger lay along on the ground as if he were dead, yet it appeared that he had received no material injury, for on the next attack, he threw himself into an attitude of defence, and as the elephant was again about to take him up, he sprung upon his forehead, fixing his hind feet upon the trunk of the former. The elephant was wounded in this attack, and so much frightened, that nothing could prevent him from breaking through every obstacle, and fairly running off. The mahawat was considered to have failed in his duty, and soon alter was brought up to the governor with his hands bound behind his back, and on the spot received a hundred lashes of the rattaai. AND COCHIN CHINA„ 323 Another elephant was now brought, but the tiger made less resistance on each successive attack. It was evident that the tosses he re- ceived must soon occasion his death. All the elephants were furnished with tusks, and the mode of attack in every instance, for several others were called forward, was that of rushing upon the tiger, thrusting their tusks under him, raising him, and throwing him to a distance. Of their trunks they evidently were very careful ; rolling them cautiously up under the chin. When the tiger was perfectly dead, an elephant was brought up, who, instead of raising the tiger on his tusks, seized him with his trunk, and in general cast him to the distance of thirty feet. . The tiger fight was succeeded by the repre- sentation of a combat of a different description. The object of it was, to shew with what steadi- ness a line of elephants was capable of advancing upon, and passing the lines of the enemy. A double line of entrenchments was thrown up, and in front of it was placed upon sticks, a quantity of combustible matter, with fire-works of various descriptions, and a few small pieces of artillery. In an instant the whole was in a blaze, and a smart fire was kept up. The elephants ad- vanced in line, at a steady and rapid pace, but though they went close up to the fire, there were very few that could be forced to pass it, of all y 2 SS4 MISSION TO SIAM them shuffling round it in some way or other. This attack was repeated a second time, and put an end to the amusements. The governor now called us to the place where he was seated, and said it would be agreeable to him if we would remain another day, to see the city ; and that a comedy should be prepared for our amusement. Mr. Crawfurd stated our reasons for wishing to depart, and we took our leave of him, much gratified with the attention he had shewn us. Sept. Srd. — The boats we had come in were in attendance at an early hour. We embarked at six a.m., and reached the ship about five p.m. of the same day. On the following morning, we weighed anchor, and continued our voyage to Turon with a strong s.w. wind. On going out of the river, the ship had very nearly struck upon a shoal or bank, not marked in the charts. Sept. lAth, — The voyage from Cape St. James to the western bound of the bay of Turon, was accomplished in moderate weather, and with a fair wind, until we approached the bay, when the winds, though light, became contrary. We have in consequence been off* this point for the last four days, without being able to get into the harbour though so near, a strong current, apparently from the gulf of Tonquin, carrying AND COCHIN CHINA. 325 the ship to the westward. The coast of Cochin China, from Cape St. James to the bay of Tu- ron, is singularly bold and picturesque. A con- tinuous and lofty chain of mountains stretches throughout the whole of this distance, in the di- rection of the sea-coast, that is from s.e. to n.w. There rarely intervenes any considerable dis- tance between the mountains and the sea-shore, the latter being either abrupt, bold, and precipi- tous, or begirt with a narrow sandy beach. The ranges of hills are numerous, and for the most part are seen to rise above each other in gradual succession, as they recede from the sea. Their abrupt, acuminated, and ridgy forms, their steril summits, their steep flanks, leave little room to doubt that the greater part, and the whole of the western half of these mountains are granitic. Near to the middle of the chain, they become less bold and less elevated, while their forms are rounded at top. With this change, increased fertility of the soil, and a country better adapted for the support of man, comes into view. Here human industry struggles against the inequality of the soil. Numerous fields are observed to occupy the sides of the hills, and a vast fleet of boats plying in the open sea, indicates the existence of a numerous population. Some of the islands along the coast are also cultivated in a similar manner. Indian corn, the smaller 83S MISSION TO SIAM kinds of grain, as the Cynosurus coracaniis, some species of pulse, yams, sweet potatoes, and cap- sicum, are all that such soils can be expected to produce ; and together with an abundant supply of fish, would appear to constitute the food of the inhabitants of this part of the coast. Their boats are in shape similar to those of the Malays, but are differently rigged, having a large square shaped sail in the middle, and one at each end, somewhat similar to the former. At a distance they look like small ships. They are extremely numerous, several hundreds of them being some- times in sight, and all under sail. They are not to be induced to visit ships upon their passage this way. Such numerous fleets of boats naturally sug- gest scenes of industry, social happiness, and domestic comfort, connected with them. We imagine that in them we see the active aim that is to furnish to thousands of their fellow-citizens a large proportion of their daily sustenance. We imagine that this numerous body of men cannot but acquire wealth themselves, while they at the same time enrich the state. How different the picture which a more close inspection portrays ! With scarce a rag of clothes to cover them ; without either house or home, other than that which their frail bark, covered with a sorry matting, affords, with a scanty supply of poor and AND COCHIN CHINA. 327 perhaps, unwholesome, food ; in this way docs a numerous but wretched population lead a life of misery. The more barbarous of the Orang Laid are not more squalid, or more wretched, than many of the fishing tribes that occupy the coasts of Cochin China. The facility with which sub- sistence, though a miserable one, is to be pro- cured in this occupation, will account for the great numbers that are engaged in fishing. It requires no funds, and but httle industry, to put a family in the way of providing for itself Hence every boat is for the most part the resi- dence of a single family, and as the source from which they derive their subsistence is inexhausti- ble, there appears to be no limit to the increase of marriages amongst them. A man of ordinary industry is capable of constructing with his own hands, the machinery and materials necessary for the existence of himself and family. Of these, the boat is the principal and an indis- pensable part, and here we observe a much cheaper and easier mode of constructing them than is generally adopted throughout these seas. The practice of hollowing out single trees must be painful, tedious, and difficult. The Cochin Chinese have substituted, in its stead, a sort of basket work, of very close texture, of which they form both the bottom and the greater part of the sides of the boat. This close basket-work, or 328 MISSION TO SIAM matting, is made of split rattans, and being stretched upon the frame, is well covered with pitch. The upper work is, however, formed of one or two planks, and the boat is further strengthened by a deck of the same materials. In the centre there is a small space covered with matting, the sole accommodation of the occu- piers ; bamboos serve for masts ; the bark of trees is made into tackling ; a few mats, sewed together, are the only sails, all of which, as well as fishing nets and lines, are made by every man for his own use. Thus equipped, they launch into the deep, carrying with them all that they possess, wander from bay to bay in quest of a subsistence, which their squalid and wretched forms would lead us to believe to be precarious and inadequate. Though for the most part under the shelter of a bold and rocky coast, they are to be found at times far out at sea. The night and their idle time are invariably spent under the shade of trees, or on some sandy beach. Here they indolently saunter away their time till necessity again calls for exertion. Their share of toil may be considered moderate ; the structure of their boats being such as to admit of their saihng with all winds, and in every direction. On the I5th September, we succeeded in gaining the bay of Turon. A salute of twenty- one guns was fired from the ship as soon as she AND COCHIN CHINA. 329 had cast anchor ; a small fort on shore returned three. The bay of Turon is completely land-locked, and were its entrance as easy as its interior is safe, it would be justly numbered among the best of harbours. The difficulty we experienced in gaining it was no doubt, in some degree, to be attributed to the lateness of the season, the contrary winds having by this time set in, which together with a current of great strength, carried the ship to the westward. We found ourselves here transported as it were into a fine, tranquil lake, surrounded almost on every hand by bold and lofty hills, covered with wood to their summit. Though there was here an assemblage of all that is usually consi- dered favourable to the production and develope- ment of the rich and beautiful in natural scenery, the general effect fell short of our expectation. We had, in fact, passed beyond that favoured belt of the equatorial region, on which nature has so lavishly bestowed her richest and most striking beauties. The activity and energy of vegetable life, which had so often attracted our admiration by the vast and varied forms to which it gave birth, was no longer sustained. A prospect more steril, and less varied, met the eye. A soil more than usually barren, sup- ported more stunted forms of arborescent vege- 330 MISSION TO SI AM lation. Extensive sandy beaches for the most part surrounded the shores, except where they are rendered more bold by the projection of granitic rocks. The great extent of the bay, indeed, forming a basin of a circular form, the serrated tops of the mountain ridges, partially enveloped in mist and gray clouds, the number of boats that are always to be seen sailing to and fro, and the bold forms of a few rocks, confer upon this harbour a peculiar interest. In point of scenery, however, it is greatly inferior to that of Trincomalee, to which the absence of culti- vated land, and the want of human habitations, assimilate it in other respects. Here and there on the shores of the bay are to be found the huts of a few wretched creatures who live by fishing : whilst agriculture may be said to have no exist- ence. Neither the betel, nor the cocoa-nut, is to be seen, nor a palm of any description ; a few acres of rice ground are scarcely deserving of mention. The sweet potatoe and the Sesa- mum orientale thrive better; yet every thing indicates an ungrateful soil. To the botanist, the mountains that surround the bay afford a field for researches as interest- ing, as it is inexhaustible. It v/ould be difficult to specify any locality that produces a greater variety of plants than this. The taller wood on the hills being cut down for fuel, appears to be AND COCHIN CHINA. 331 highly favourable to the production of herbaceous plants. The daily excursions of our party were the means of adding many valuable plants to my collection. To the kindness of Mr. Crawfurd, I am indebted for a considerable portion of these ; he not only gave directions for the necessary accommodations for my servants, who had by this time become experienced collectors, but was himself successful in making discoveries. When we had been some hours at anchor, a mandarin of respectable appearance came off, accompanied by a considerable number of fol- lowers, dressed in uniform. This mandarin was a remarkable contrast to the generality of his countrymen. He talked but little, and that very slowly ; he asked few questions, yet shewed considerable curiosity. He was about forty years of age, had a thin person, short stature, and like the rest of his countrymen, a round face. His manners were uncommonly good. He was well dressed, according to the costume of the country. It is scarcely requisite to observe that the object of his visit was to ascertain whence we came, and what were our views. We learned from him that our arrival had been expected for some time. He inquired first of all, if the letter for the King of Cochin China was from the King of England : he then desired to have a list of the names of the persons on board. 333 MISSION TO SIA3I After remaining several hours, he took his leave, stating that he should report the arrival of the mission to his superior, the chief mandarin of Fai-Foh, he himself being a mandarin of letters, and chief of the village ofTuron. This man returned on board on several occa- sions ; on one of which he carried with him a letter from the chief of Fai-Foh to the Agent of the Governor- General, together with presents of fish, fruit, ducks, fowls, pigs, and a bullock. It was rumoured that w^e should be invited to visit Fai- Foh, w^hile an answer was expected from the capital. This appears, however, to have been merely a vague rumour, and we have heard nothing further of it since. 20th Sept. — Mr. Crawfurd visited the man- darin of Turon, who had been now several times on board. Lieut. Rutherford and myself accom- panied him on this occasion. The village of Tu- ron lies nearly three miles distant from the usual place of anchorage. The approach to it is through an extensive shallow bank, which lies against the mouth of the river ; at which place, and on the left bank, there is a small, nearly quadrangular fort, surrounded by walls of sand and a ditch. On the opposite side of the river, at a considerable distance, we observed several redoubts. The walls of the fort were well manned as we approached ; every man was AND COCHIN CHINA. 333 armed either with a lance or musket, and these alternated with each other. The appearance they made was rather imposing. We proceeded to a public building, where, af- ter waiting for a short time, we were joined by the mandarin. Refreshments were ordered, and he conversed on indifferent subjects. A number of attendants, all of them well dressed, occupied the room. Some of them were seated at a distance on low platforms, while others stood erect. We were soon after joined by a mandarin of the army, commander of the fort, and equal in rank to the other man. He was a little, meagre, smart man, about the middle age. His dress was su- perior to that of the other, more in point of quality than in form. He was accompanied by about thirty well-dressed soldiers, armed with spears. He excused himself, on account of sickness, for not waiting upon Mr. Crawfurd sooner. Taking our leave of the mandarins, we passed on to the village. It is disposed in a straggling form, along the bank of the river, to the distance of a mile or more. The houses are neat, com- fortable, and clean. They are generally sur- rounded by a paling of small sticks. We ob- served little or no culture of any sort. The Jatropha curcas formed hedges ; the Calophyl- lum inophyllum shaded walks. A few Convol- .334 MfSSION TO SFAM vuli and other flowers were all that we found here. The bazar is an indifferent one, but poorly supplied even with fish. The people be- haved towards us with remarkable civility. 23rfl. — Each day adds considerably to the number of our plants. In the evening, the mandarin of Turon came on board, accompanied by an interpreter, who spoke the Portuguese language, from the capital. He came to inform Mr. Crawfurd, that two barges had been sent from Hue for the purpose of taking him to that place; that these would afford accommodation for ten persons, and re- quested that no more than that number might be brought, for that his orders on the subject were peremptory. This communication was a disappointment to us all. Our curiosity, augmented and heightened by what little we had already seen of the coun- try, was thus doomed to be disappointed at the very moment we thought its gratification within our reach. It was evident that the whole party could not proceed to the capital ; and yet it may be supposed that all were anxious to see a coun- try so little known and so little frequented by Europeans,— a country which, adopting the ex- ample, and policy, and discipline of European nations, yet not involving itself in the slightest AND COCHIN CHINA. 335 degree in their interests, or the dangers of their influence, has, within the period of a few years, made advances in civilization, in political strength, and in military science, which render it formidable to the surrounding nations. After much discussion, it was finally agreed, that fifteen persons, including the crew of the ship's long boat, required for the transport of our baggage, should be allowed to proceed. It next remained to be decided what persons were to accompany Mr. Crawfurd. Captain Dan- gerfield, his assistant, represented that his si- tuation gave him the first claim, and that he would not waive it without sufficient reason, an argument v/hich was forgotten when Mr. Craw- furd represented that I spoke the Portuguese language, and that therefore I should be more useful on this occasion than one who did not. Matters being thus arranged, the requisite num- ber of followers was selected. It was made a particular request that none of the sepoys might be brought. Had nothing been said respecting the number of persons that were to proceed in the boats, it might have been supposed that the government had concluded that they had sent what they con- ceived to be ample accommodation for the whole. But they had already been put in possession of the fullest information on every subject regarding the mission : and a list of the number of persons 336 MISSION TO SIAM constituting it had been transmitted, together with other documents. They were therefore per- fectly aware of our numbers. Had the mission, as fitted out from Bengal, appeared at court, it would have made an appearance both respectable and imposing ; but this, it was very obvious to perceive, the court was desirous to avoid. Not only did they strenuously and firmly oppose every thing like a decent and respectable appear- ance in the mission, but they carried this con- duct so far as to infringe even upon the personal comforts of the reduced number that were to proceed. It was evident that their object was to render the mission as obscure as possible, and to give it an indifferent reception. This was subsequently rendered the more conspicuous by their sending persons of mean condition to confer with Mr. Crawfurd on the subject of the letter to the king. The governor of Saigon, who had behaved in a polite and courtly manner toward us, had said, that on our arrival at Hue, the Mandarin of Elephants would transact busi- ness with the Agent to the Governor General; but this personage was contented to send his deputies for that purpose. On the 24:th, about three p.m., the two barges sent from the capital came alongside. The man- darin who commanded them was the finest figure of a man we had yet seen since we entered the country. He was advanced in years, yet hale AND COCHIN CHINA. S^ and even athletic. He was, in fact, a perfect figure of an old soldier, inured to toil and accus- tomed to hardships. He proposed that we should sail towards evening, and stopped to dine with us. The Cochin Chinese make no difficulty of eating of whatever is placed before them : and both this man, who sat with us at table, and his followers, partook of almost every dish. They are, in fact, rather coarse feeders. When we came to examine the boats, we found the accom- modation they afforded more wretched than we had anticipated. The boats, indeed, made up in length for what they wanted in breadth; they are fashioned like canoes, very narrow, but ex- tremely long. They contained forty rowers each, and were provided with a few small brass swi- vels. The only accommodation left for us, was a narrow, close place, covered with a paltry bam- boo matting, of a rounded form, one end of which was left open to creep in at. It was not suffi- ciently high to allow even of our sitting erect. We had, of course, concluded that the two boats were to be at our disposal, but to this ar- rangement the Mandarin strenuously objected, insisting on keeping the best accommodation for himself. When we came to take possession of our hut, we found it barely sufficient for two per- sons to squeeze into side by side in a recumbent posture. 338 MFSSION TO SIAM CHAPTER IX. Voyage from Turon Bay to Hue'.— Mouth of the River OP Hue', — Politeness of the Cochin Chinese has not TENDED to AMELIORATE THE TREATMENT OF FEMALES. — Arrive at Hue'. — Perpetual avatch kept over the Members of the Mission, — Military costume, — The Governor-General's letter to the King sent to the Mandarin of Elephants. — The Chinese translation altered. — Interview with the Mandarin. — Canal sur-« ROUNDING the CITY. — BEAUTIFUL PROSPECTS ON THE RIVER OP Hue', — Neatness of the Villages. — Horses. — Soil. — Fortified city. — French Mandarins. — Conference WITH THE Mandarin of Elephants, — Difficulty re- specting AN audience with THE KiNG. — An ENTER- TAINMENT SERVED. — Further discussion,~The Audience WITH the King refused. — Beauty and strength of the FORT. — InHOSPITALITY OF THE G0VERN3IENT, — RoYAL BAR- RACKS, — Artillery Store-Houses, — Enormous Gun, — Citadel. — Remarks on the French Interest at court, — The Presents prom the Governor General and an Audience refused. — Poverty of the Bazar. Collecting together whatever seemed most es- sential during our excursion, we took possession of our boat about six p.m., and left the ship, which as on the former occasion, fired a salute. Neither the painter, nor any one likely to be of much use in procuring objects of natural history, was permitted to accompany me. It was feared that, at this season of the year, AND COCHIN CHINA. 339 we should experience tempestuous weather, a prospect not altogether agreeable to us, consider- ing that we were to go to sea in an open boat. The Mandarin comforted himself with the know- ledge that the coast, though bold and rocky, abounded in excellent harbours, which he could at all times gain without much difficulty. Fortu- nately, however, the weather was agreeable dur- ing the whole of the passage, and though we obtained little aid from our sails from the time we left Turon Bay, we reached the mouth of the river of Hue^ at three p.m. on the 25th, after a passage of twenty hours. It was thought that the ship's long boat would have kept pace with the barges, but it turned out quite otherwise. She fell into the rear from the commencement, and did not reach Hue for a day and a night after our arrival. From Turon to Hue, the country, as seen from the ocean, bears a similar appearance to that be- tween the former place and Saigon. It is bold, rugged, and picturesque. The chain of moun- tains is continued; the ridges bear the same forms and direction. There can be little doubt but that they are of granitic structure. As you approach the river of Hue, they increase in alti- tude, and the peaks become more acuminated. Yet the aspect is, perhaps, more sterile. On the approacli of morning, however, we were delighted Z 2 340 MISSION TO SIAM with the union of grandeur and beauty in the vast prospect before us. The dense white clouds yet rested tranquilly mid-way upon the moun- tains, whilst their bold summits were seen to project into the pure ether. The darker shade of the valley contrasted admirably with the lighter colour of a few scanty patches of culti- vation. Industry laboured at the oar, and a multitude of small boats gave life and animation to the scene. The nature of the soil was too evident, from the situation of numerous villages erected upon bare and sandy beaches. These had no vestige of cultivation or of vegetation in their neigh- bourhood. They depended solely for subsist- ence upon the fisheries ; and upon the dry sands we often saw small boats drawn up to the num- ber of several hundreds in the same place. On the left bank of the mouth of the river of Hue, there is constructed a small, but remarkably neat fort, with a rampart surrounded by a stone wall, and the guns mounted en barbet. This place commands the entrance into the river very com- pletely, but does not appear capable of affording much resistance to a force capable of using ar- tillery with advantage. The place is remark- ably clean and neat. The walls were almost covered with soldiers, armed with muskets and lances. To man the walls of a fort is considered AND COCHIN CHINA. Sil by the Cochin Chinese complimentary, and to be equivalent to our custom of firing a salute as a mark of distinction. A little way beyond the fort, the Mandarin brought the boats to anchor. Here we waited nearly six hours, and when towards evening we expressed a wish to take a short walk on shore, it was hinted that we must not go far. A num- ber of people, soldiers and others, followed us. There was indeed nothing to be seen but a num- ber of miserable huts built upon a barren and sandy beach. The mouth of the river of Hue is rather narrow, considering the size of the river which here discharges itself. On one side it is con- fined by an elevated and extensive sand bank, which stretching along-shore, forms a boundary to an extensive sheet arm of the river, which seems to stretch towards the W. in search of an outlet. A less elevated sand bank, on which is erected the fort alluded to, confines it on the opposite side. At time of high water, there are, it is stated, sixteen and eighteen feet upon the bar. The entrance is formed by the sand banks mentioned, and is not more than two or three hundred yards in length. When you have passed this, you seem to have entered a vast fresh- water lake, and to be completely excluded from the sea. 343 MISSION TO SIAM The scenery becomes now very interesting. Islands, covered with cultivation, are visible at a distance ; several vast rivers appear to pour their waters into one basin. Thousands of boats are seen returning from, or proceeding to sea. There were women in all the boats, and they seemed to have more than their due share of whatever labour was going forward. The su- perior politeness which we had remarked amongst these people has not ameliorated the condition of females in society. Whilst we remained here, the Mandarin had sent to Hue to communicate our arrival, and to request orders. He was directed to wait the arrival of the ship's boat, and to send ours on towards the capital. About nine p.m., we again proceeded, and came to anchor about midnight. The distance we had traversed may have been about nine miles. Sept. 26th. — At this place we remained till morning in our boat. There was no appearance whatever of a town, yd they declared that we were now close to it ; few houses were visible. The bank was marshy, and overgrown with weeds ; so that it was difficult to approach the land, but by the assistance of a narrow board. Several spears were stuck up against a hedge, within which, we were informed, stood the house the Mandarin of Elephants had allotted for our AND COCHrN CHINA. 343 reception. About seven p.m. a handsome boat came along-side, and soon after we were re- quested to land, and to take possession of our quarters, which we found ample and convenient. The place was everywhere surrounded by armed soldiers ; but the only inconvenience we ex- perienced arose from the number of persons who occupied the house with us, and who, by their incessant loud talking, left us not a moment's quiet by night or by day. They were specta- tors of all our actions, and never permitted them- selves to lose sight of us, but occupied the rooms with us, as well when we were at meals, as at other times. We were instructed not to pass the sentries, but to remain within the house until we should be presented at court. Even our servants were watched with the strictest observa- tion ; and it was not without difficulty that they would grant permission to one of them at a time to go to the bazar close by, though accompanied by one of their own people. Nothing could ex- ceed their strictness in this particular. Compared with the troops of the native princes of India, and of the king of Siam, the soldiers we saw here made a very respectable appear- ance. Though exceedingly short in stature, they are well made, and of a robust form. They would appear to be well calculated to act as light troops ; their dress is both convenient and 3fl MISSION TO SIAIVI shcwy. It would, perhaps, be difficult to devise one better adapted to the nature of the climate, the comfort of the soldier, and at the same time uniting that smartness of appearance so con- stantly aimed at in military costume. The principal parts of the dress are as follow : A conical helmet, without peak, made of basket work, lackered, and in general gilt : this is strong, but light, and perfectly water-proof. On the summit of this some wear a plume of red horse-hair and feathers ; in others the plume is wanting. This helmet is worn over the com- mon turban of the country, and bound by straps under the chin. In dry weather, and when the men are off duty, the helmet is thrown over their shoulder, suspended by the straps, in which state it resembles a small shield. The body is covered with a loose jacket of red serge, or coarse red cloth, with a short, close collar ; this habit is wide, has long sleeves, is fastened in front by loops and small buttons ; it reaches down to the knee, and is slit on each side ; it is turned up with blue or yellow ; over this they wear one or two habits, according to the state of the weather ; these are of yellow serge, the borders of various strongly-contrasted colours. In shape these exactly resemble the other habit, except that they have no sleeves. A pair of wide trowsers, scarce descending AND COCHIN CHINA. 345 below the knee, and made of coarse red or white silk, completes the dress. The arms, as has been already stated, are either a musket or spear. The greater number of the former appear to be of French manufacture. They are fur- nished with a bayonet like ours, but they are considerably lighter. They appear to take bet- ter care of their fire-arms than even European soldiers do. They always carry a cover for the lock, and, on the approach of rain, they care- fully wrap up their muskets in a cloth cover. The accoutrements are similar to those of our own soldiers, but the leather of which they are made is ornamented with gilded figures. The cartouche-box is smaller than an English sol- dier's. I had the curiosity to look into one, and found the contents as follows : A set of men for playing at cliess ; A small bottle of scented oil ; A small horn, with pricker, containing apparently priming powder ; A bundle of small, hollow bamboos, each containing a charge of powder, stopped at one end with paper ; No ball, or shot. To the outside of the cartridge-box is at- tached a bucket of basket-work, for the purpose of containing a couple of sticks, about six inches long, and an inch broad, a necessary part of thQ equipment of every soldier. A similar 3t(5 lAIISSION TO SIAM bucket is attached to the shaft of the lance. It is by striking these sticks against each other that the sentinels give note of their watchfulness, and not by passing the word as with us. The noise is sufficiently loud and shrill. They beat three strokes every half hour, and it passes thus through the chain of sentries. The lance is about twelve feet long. The shaft is of bamboo, admirably adapted for this purpose ; the head about eight inches long. Two bundles of red horse-hair ornament the summit. We had scarcely entered our lodging, when a messenger came from the Mandarin of Elephants to obtain the letter for the king, in order to its being examined previously to its being submitted to him. Mr. Crawfurd delivered the letter, to- gether with Portuguese and Chinese translations, the latter executed by the missionaries at Seram- pore. In the course of the day, the mandarin sent some trifling presents of rice, oil, salt, candles, &c. , and a small sum of money, about fifteen or twenty dollars. The Mandarin of Turon came to visit us in the evening, and conversed with us for several hours. 21th. — The clerk who came yesterday for the letter, now returned with the Chinese translation, stating, that there were certain expressions in it which rendered it unfit to be laid before the AND COCHIN CPIINA. 347 king. Mr. Crawfurd had, on the previous day, told him that ho would alter any expression that did not accord with the notions of propriety en- tertained by the court. What the objections now were, I am unable to say. Mr. Crawfurd men- tioned one which was to this effect, — that the Governor General vva'ote as if he were writing to his equal. This man and several others, toge- ther with Mr. Crawfurd's Chinese interpreter, were all day occupied in making the required alterations. 28f/i. — The same personage returned with a request to have another copy of the Chinese trans- lation. It was said that this v/as intended for the governor of Saigon; but, on visiting the Mandarin of Elephants, he told us that he meant to keep that copy by him. About noon, this copy was finished, and a messenger came to say, that the Mandarin of Elephants desired to have an interview with the Agent to the Governor-Gene- ral. A comfortable and neat boat, rowed by soldiers, dressed in red, was sent to convey us. We set out at one o'clock, accompanied by some Cochin Chinese, who were usually waiting at our quarters. We were two hours in reaching the Mandarin's house, and the distance could not be less than six miles from our quarters. We were nearly at an equal distance from the town, though we had been told that we were quite S48 MISSION TO SLVM close to It. The river is so much divided by islands of various dimensions, and so intersects the country in every way, that it is difficult to state more of its course than the general direction which it takes, and this is, for the most part, from west to east. In ascending the river, to reach the Mandarin's, we soon quitted the branch which we first occupied, and turning to the right, entered a fine and wide canal, partly na- tural and partly artificial. This canal surrounds three sides of the capital, and at both extremities joins the great river, which lies in front of the fourth. The canal is about forty or fifty yards wide at its lowest part, where we entered; it becomes narrower as you ascend, and, at the upper extremity, it is little more than eighteen or twenty yards across. It is maintained in per- fect order. The sides are regularly sloped, and supported by embankments, where requisite. Its depth would appear to be, in most parts, about eight feet. It affords the double advan- tage of an outward defence to the place, for which it was doubtless originally intended, as it bounds the glacis throughout its course, and is extremely serviceable, as affording water-con- veyance to the various parts of an extensive city. We had seen little more than the bare walls of our habitation since our arrival. The most beautiful and luxuriant scenery now burst upon AND COCmiN CHINA. .349 our view, and we were soon agreed that tlie banks of the river of Hue presented the most beautiful and interesting scenery of any river we had seen in Asia. Its beauties, however, are the gifts of nature more than of art. A vast ex- panse of water, conveyed by a magnificent river through a fertile valley, not so wide but that the eye can compass its several parts ; ridges of lofty and bold mountains in the distance ; the cocoa-nut, the areca, the banana; the sugar- cane, hedges of bamboos, that wave their ele- gant tops in the air ; rows of that beautiful plant the hibiscus, are the principal materials which, grouped in various forms, delight the eye of the spectator. From this we must not separate the no less interesting prospect of numerous and apparently comfortable villages. In these the most remarkable circumstance is the neatness and cleanliness of the houses of the natives, and the cheerful, contented, and lively disposition of the people. The liouses of the better sort are substantial and large, covered with tiles, the walls being partly made of brick and mortar, and partly of wood. Besides, they exercise considerable taste in adorning their grounds and little gardens with flowers and ornamental trees. Though we were in the immediate vicinity of a large city, few people were to be seen ; these .350 jMISSION to SIAM were at work in the fields, collecting weeds from the canal, or passing on the public roads. We were still more surprised to find so few boats upon the river, and of junks we saw no more than three or four. It is true, that the commer- cial season had gone by, yet a large city must have great and constant demand for transport, at least by means of boats. Besides, the former remark was alike applicable to Saigon, yet at that place vast numbers of boats were constantly visible, It is difficult to conceive how so much solitude should exist under such circumstances. Of those who were passing on the roads, some were mounted on small ponies, active, but neither handsome nor strong. There are no horses in the country, and it is only the lower orders that ride these ; nor have we seen them used for any other purpose. In our excursions, we observed a considerable extent of the landscape: on the right bank, which is at no great distance from the hills, it is diversified into low and high ground, and often rises into hills of moderate size, the sides of which are cultivated. The general extent of cul- tivation is but limited, and the quantity of ground fit for the production of rice very small ; and wherever this is the case, countries in these latitudes must be considered as poor. Nor can this place, therefore, be exempted. It is in- AND COCHIN CHINA. 351 debted to Saigon and Tonquin for the supplies of rice. Considerable diversity of soil exists here; in some parts it is a dry, friable, and almost pure sand ; in others, it consists of stiff clay, and elsewhere these are intermixed. The alluvion which this great river has formed is ex- tremely small. As soon as we had entered the canal, we found ourselves in front of one face of the Fort. The term Fort, which has been applied to this place, is apt to convey erroneous notions, though it is perhaps as much a fort as a place of such vast extent can well be. It is, in fact, a fortified city ; and if the French had compared it with such places as Delhi and Agra, instead of Fort William, the comparison had been more just. The fortifications of this place are, without ques- tion, of a most extraordinary nature, whether considered in the magnitude of extent, the bold- ness of design, the perseverance in execution, or the strength they display. The Fort appears to be built with the greatest regularity, and accord- ing to the principles of European fortification. It is of quadrangular form ; each side appeared to us to be at least a mile and a half in lengUi. The rampart is about thirty feet high, and cased with brick and mortar. The bastions project but little, contain from five to eight embrasures, and are placed at a great distance from each 352 MfSSION TO STAM Other. The walls are in excellent order. We could not distinctly see whether there was a ditch at the foot of the wall, but were told that there is. The glacis extends to the canal, and is about 200 yards in breadth. In many parts, it is rather higher on the banks of the canal than towards the Fort, but is everywhere com- manded by the latter. Numerous sheds for boats, and for other purposes, are erected on the glacis. An enemy on the opposite side of the canal would, in many parts, find shelter in the brush- wood and hedges, and even villages, within reach of the guns of the Fort, and thence would find the means of attacking the place with little exposure of his men. But it is not to be ex- pected that such places are capable of much resistance. They may serve as a temporary defence against a sudden alarm, and against a tumultuary attack from irregular troops ; but a handful of brave and enterprising men would soon possess themselves of the place. The gates are ornamented in the Chinese style, but the approaches are calculated for the purposes of defence. "Within the walls is con- tained a square building, surrounded by lofty walls, and apparently very strong. This is pro- bably the citadel. We had but a very imperfect view of it. AND COCHIN CHINA. 353 There appeared no reason to doubt that we were brought by this circuitous route, in order that we might see the extent of the fortifications. On leaving the canal, we entered the great river. At the point of their junction, the view is uncommonly fine ; the body of water very great, the country opposite beautiful and much diversi- fied. The ground here would appear to be adapted chiefly for the cultivation of sugar-cane, Indian corn, vegetables, and such seeds as are adapted to a dry soil. We passed the houses of several persons of rank ; they were surrounded with stone walls and bamboo hedges. The roads in front were good. After we had pro- ceeded about a mile on the great river, we came to the house of the Mandarin of Elephants. We waited for a few minutes in our boat, when we were told to land. As we approached the house, we met the two French mandarins, Messrs. Van- nier and Chaigneaux, who entered the house along with us. They were dressed in silk robes, according to the Cochin-Chinese fashion. They are both of them fine-looking old men, of an amiable expression of countenance. The former had served in the American war, and appeared to be about sixty-five years of age ; the latter is somewhat younger. They both left France on the breaking out of the Revolution, and de- voted themselves to the service of the late King of 2 A 354 MISSrON TO SIAM Cochin China, who raised them to their present rank. They were the companions of the King in his misfortunes as well as in his prosperity : of twenty Frenchmen who were in his service, they are the only survivors. In the court of the mandarin's house was a crowd of vagrant-looking people, some dressed in masks, some with painted faces, and hideous looks. I was informed by M. Chaigneaux that these were players, and that a Chinese co- medy was now performing ; and that this and the other festivities were going forward in consequence of the marriage of the mandarin's son, who had just carried home his bride, a lady of high rank. The music, which was harsh, shrill, and disagreeable, ceased as we entered. The mandarin was seated upon a small table or bench, covered with a carpet and furnished with handsome cushions, at one end of a large, plain, and neat, but rather naked room, open on two sides. Behind him were the apartments of the women, separated only by a curtain ; they were spectators of the play, and continued here during the whole time we were present. On the opposite side of the hall were also suites of apartments, now occupied by the players, who made their appearance from that quarter. To the right and left, were disposed a crowd of people in three or four rows. They AND COCHIN CHINA. 355 consisted of men, women, and children, and many of them appeared to be miserably poor. Few or no soldiers were present, but one or two attendants bore swords. We walked up to where the mandarin sat, and bowed to him. Without quitting his seat, he returned our salute, and pointed to a couch on his left, where we seated ourselves ; the French mandarins sat in chairs on each side of us. The conversation which ensued was carried on in French, on our part, and partly in Portuguese, the French mandarins being the medium of communication in the former, and a native Christian in the latter. When we were seated, the chief asked if there was any thing else to be communicated than what was contained in the letter to the King. Mr. Crawfurd replied, that the letter contained almost every thing that was to be said ; but that he had a few words to state on commercial matters, which he would now, or at any time the mandarin thought most proper, enter upon. The mandarin desired that he might now enter upon whatever he had to propose. Mr. Crawfurd then said, that what was chiefly required was that permission might be granted to British ships to trade to the ports of Cochin China, mentioning in particular Saigon, Turon-bay, and Tonquin; and that instructions might be deli- vered to him respecting the duties demanded, and 2 A 2 35G MISSION TO SIAM the regulations by which the commerce of these places was conducted. To this the mandarin answered, that the ports of Cochin China were open to all nations, that the duties had of late been very considerably diminished, first by the late King, and latterly by the present ; that he would furnish a table or scheme of the duties collected at different ports ; that he would always expedite the affairs of traders, by immediate attention to them, well knowing the importance of expedition in matters of that nature. Mr. Crawfurd said, that this being the case, there was nothing for him to ask, and that the regulations were very liberal. The mandarin now observed, that the matter being so very simple, our affairs would soon be settled ; that until they were so it was not usual for strangers to appear in public ; but that being done we had merely to signify to him when we wished to go abroad, and that he would send a boat for us and people to conduct us. He farther observed, that he would send the tariff, and an answer to all matters to-morrow. Whilst this conversation was going forward, in a loose and somewhat desultory manner, M. Chaigneaux brought forward the affair of the damaged muskets sent from Madras by Messrs. Abbot and Maitland. The mandarin was well acquainted with the circumstance, and it was AND COCHIN CHINA. 357 very evident that it was now agitated with no good intention. Mr. Crawfurd now took occasion to ask the mandarin when he might expect to have the ho- nour of obtaining an audience of the king. We Avere but little prepared for the answer to this : that the business of the envoy being entirely of a commercial nature, it altogether precluded the possibility of his being admitted into the pre- sence of the king ; and that it was an affair for the cognizance of his ministers. To this Mr. Crawfurd answered, that it was right that com- mercial affairs should be conducted by the king's ministers, and that he should be happy to have the honour of conferring with them on this sub- ject, but that commerce was not the sole object either of the letter to the king or of the mission ; that he had been sent from a distant country, by a powerful and mighty government, to congratu- late the king of Cochin China on his succession to the throne. That this was of itself to be con- sidered as an honourable distinction of the king of Cochin China ; and that the obvious and ge- neral tendency of the mission was to unite and to cement the bonds of friendship between the two nations. That the determination not to re- ceive the envoy of the Governor General of India, a man of the most exalted rank, the inti- mate friend of his sovereign, looked up to by 358 MISSION TO SIAM all the world, and holding correspondence with the greatest kings of the east, was the more sur- prising, and indeed altogether unaccountable, for that the late king had received the envoy of the Governor General, and had given him two public audiences. He concluded by requesting, that the Mandarin would represent this matter to his majesty, and obtain from him an early an- swer. The mandarin answered that he had already communicated with the king upon the subject, and such was his determination. That had the Agent to the Governor General come on any other than commercial affairs, he would have been presented to the court, but that it was alto- gether contrary to its customs to give audience on such, occasions. That had Mr. Crawfurd been the envoy of the king of England, or of any king, he would have been received. That in this case it was as if the governor of Saigon had sent an envoy to the imperial court. It was contrary to usage, contrary to the customs of the country, and could not be done ; but for the satisfaction of Mr. Crawfurd the matter should be again re- presented to the king. In the interval, tea had been served, and, at this part of the conversation, the table was co- vered with roast pigs, geese, fowls, and fruit. The subject of the damaged guns was again in- troduced by M. Chaigneaux. AND COCHIN CHINA. 35^ We were requested to sit down to dinner. The mandarin continued upon his seat, a tran- quil spectator of what was going on around him. The meat was served up on China dishes, and the fruit on japanned trays. A few small liqueur glasses, of coarse manufacture, were placed upon the table, together with a bottle of common French claret. The knives were also French, with gilt handles. After we had partaken of a little fruit, the things were removed, and the chief asked if we had a desire to see the comedy. Mr. Crawfurd said that he should wish first to say a few words on the subject of the late conversation. The Portuguese interpreter was now requested to ex- plain that it must be well known to the mandarin, and to the court at large, as it was also to the two French gentlemen now present, that in the year 1804, the envoy of the Governor General of Bengal, Mr. Roberts, who was sent in a capacity similar to that of Mr. Crawfurd, had been received honourably at court, and had ob- tained two audiences of the king ; that therefore this was a clear and unequivocal proof that it was not contrary to the usage of the court, that he should be received by the king ; that the en- voys of the Governor General were received with distinction at the courts of the first monarchs of India, and that very lately he had obtained an 360 MISSION TO SIAM audience of a neighbouring monarch, that of Siam. He concluded by begging that the matter might be taken into serious consideration. The Mandarin stoutly asserted and reiterated his assertion that Mr. Roberts had not obtained an audience of the king. He was reminded that documents proving the contrary, written by the express order of the king, were in the pos- session of the government of Bengal, and that both Messrs. Vannier and Chaigneaux, who were present on that occasion, could now testify to the fact. M. Chaigneaux stoutly denied that he knew any thing of the matter, said that he was sick, and absent. M. Vannier neither could nor did deny the matter, but remained silent. The Mandarin knew that nothing but the truth had been stated ; yet he equivocated in the most palpable manner ; saying at one time that he had not been admit- ted ; at another, that it was during war, when any one might have been admitted to the king ; and that since that time the customs of the court had been altered ; and that the magnificence of the court was reserved solely for the greatest oc- casions. It was here observed that the change which had taken place in court etiquette was not known ; and that with respect to the manner in which the mission was to be received, it was for the king to decide whether the audience should be public or private, Oo this the old gentleman AND COCHIN CHINA. 361 dryly observed, that it was indeed very natural that we should use every expedient to gain an audience of the king, having come so far for that purpose, and plainly insinuated that it was all to no purpose. The coolness of his manner, and the direct inference of the remark, were too much for us, and we could contain our gravity no longer. The Frenchmen seemed equally surprised with the Mandarin at seeing us laugh so heartily. The old gentleman was in fact quite at a loss what to say ; and at last dwelt upon the argu- ment that the etiquette of the court had been changed. He promised to return an answer to all matters on the following day. The players were now introduced. Their per- formance was so grotesque and ridiculous, un- meaning and tiresome, that it is not worthy of further observation. The music also was abo- minable. We were soon tired of both, and re- quested permission to retire. The French gen- tlemen accompanied us to our boats. We returned home by a different route from that by which we came, so as to make the circuit of the fortress, but it was now dark, and we could see but little. Sept. 29th. — No answer came from the Man- darin regarding the subjects agitated yesterday. He sent to say that a boat would be sent to take us to see the place ; and in the evening the 362 MISSION TO SIAM French gentlemen came to accompany us. Pro- ceeding up the river, we passed along that part of the fortress which the darkness had prevented us from seeing on the preceding evening. This part of the wall has been finished, in the course of the present year, in a very complete manner. The present king, however, is not altogether pleased, as his predecessor was, with the prin- ciples of Vauban. He has accordingly built the embrasures on a plan of his own* invention. The order of them is quite reversed, that is, they are narrow towards the ditch, and wide towards the rampart ! This is the case with all the em- brasures on this side of the fort, and they would seem to be the only objectionable part of the work. We were now more struck than ever with the great beauty, magnitude, regularity and strength of this extraordinary work, for such it is in every point of view. Nothing can be more neat and regular than all the works, the glacis, the covered way, the ditch, the walls, and the ramparts. Some of the bridges are made of stone and mortar, others of wood, supported on blocks of masonry, and all of them remarkably neat. When we had passed nearly mid-way along this front, we entered the place by a principal * This mode of constructing embrasiues had been lung- before strenuously recommended by some railitdry writers. AND COCHIN CHINA. 383 gate, neatly and strongly built in the European style, and with simple and few ornaments. The glacis is covered with short grass, and about 200 yards in breadth- The wet ditch is about thirty feet broad, supported on each side by masonry, and being on a level with the river, it ahvays contains water. The wall cannot, I should think, be less than from twenty to thirty feet high. The French gentlemen told us that the length of each side was 1,187 toises of six feet each, and that the walls would contain 800 pieces of cannon. On entering the gate we turned to the right, and passed along the rampart. As much care has been bestowed on the construction of the interior as of the exterior. The place is laid out in squares or quadrangles, the roads are wide and convenient, and a navigable canal, which leads to the granaries and magazines, passes through the place. The town, if so it may be called, is rather paltry ; the greater part of the ground appears to be laid out in ill-cultivated gardens, attached to miserable, but probably only tempo- rary, huts. The bazars have an appearance of poverty, yet the regularity of the streets gives an air of great neatness to the place, and the view both of the country and town, as seen from the rampart, must be considered very fine. After passing for more than a mile along the rampart, we were conducted to the public granaries, con- 364 MISSION TO SIAM sisting of a vast number of well-built, substan- tial store-houses. The greatest attention has been bestowed upon every thing ; and the pow- der-magazines are erected in the midst of tanks. We were, however, unfortunate in the day we had chosen. It now commenced to rain with great violence, and the crowd of idle spectators who had inoffensively followed us so far, began to disperse. We next passed on towards the palace and the citadel. I could not help reflect- ing on the different reception we had experienced at Saigon, and at this place. There the people were anxious to shew us every attention, and their hospitality was unbounded. Here we passed in front of a palace, where there were numerous officers and persons of rank that saw us, yet though we Vv^ere on foot, without umbrel- las, without the means of conveyance, overtaken by the rain and drenched with wet, there was no offer of assistance made from any quarter. It is easy to conceive what appearance we made under these circumstances. The palace of the king is surrounded on every side by handsome and well-built rows of bar- racks. These were uncommonly clean and very complete in their structure. The arm-racks, the arms of the men, the platforms on which they sleep ; the apartments for officers, were all dis- posed with the greatest neatness and regularity. AND COCHIN CHINA. 3fi5 The men though not armed, were disposed with regularity in the verandahs ; and all of them in uniform. Of some regiments the uniform is blue, with red sleeves ; of others, white with red, and so forth. The officers are distinguished by a circular patch of embroidery in front of each shoulder. These barracks would lose little in comparison with the best we have in England. When we had passed through several suites of these, we were proceeding on towards our boats, being unwilling to continue longer in the wet. The commander of artillery wished, however, to shew us his department, and sent to recal us. His department was indeed well worth seeing. We had not seen one gun on the walls of the fort, but here was a display calculated to surprise us. It were an endless task to enumerate all the different sorts of iron and brass guns, their sizes, and other circumstances connected with them. Four very large buildings, or sheds, were entirely filled with guns mounted and dismounted, of every description. There were also a con- siderable number of mortars, and an ample sup- ply of shot and shells. A great number of very fine brass guns were pointed out to us that had been cast by the late king, and among them nine of immense size. The officer of artillery ob- served that the latter were too large to be ser- viceable in war, but that the king had intended 366 MISSION TO SIAM them as a memorial both of himself and of the works executed during his reign. They were mounted upon carriages, finished with as much care as the guns themselves. The gun-carriages in general were uncommonly well finished, and made of a hard and durable wood called Sao, procured chiefly from the province of Dong-nai or Saigon. The palace of the king is so completely sur- rounded by the barracks, that except on passing one or two of the gates, we could see nothing whatever of the buildings. The citadel is a small quadrangular building, with strong and lofty walls, close to the palace. It is altogether an edifice not calculated to excite any peculiar interest. It had now become so dark that we could see nothing more of the buildings, and therefore re- turned to our boat. What we had seen was well calculated to give us very favourable notions of the capacity of the Cochin Chinese. Every thing was in a style of neatness, magnitude, and perfection, compared to which, similar undertak- ings by other Asiatics were like the works of children. These wear the semblance of the pre- parations of a bold, enterprising, and warlike people. Such were the sentiments which a view of these objects was calculated to produce. A more extensive acquaintance with the people AND COCHIN CHINA. 367 tended to qualify them. It was already easy to perceive that the master-mind which had pro- jected and created such great works no longer influenced their continuance. He had set that in motion which his successors, it may be suspected, are scarce equal to carry on or to preserve. Above all, it was easy to perceive that the ge- nius which had directed every thing was French. The late king shewed, doubtless, a great and un- prejudiced mind in following their plans. But another Pharaoh has arisen who knows not * Jo- seph. The French interest, there seems every reason to believe, declines daily, and with the two Mandarins of that nation, one of whom is about to return to his native country, it will pro- bably cease altogether. The proposals made by the French court since the peace, and their at- '■^- Possibly we may be allowed to doubt the validity of our au- tlior's opinion on this point ; it may be that the monarch of Cochin China in 1S22, had heard of the drama of Constantine Phaulkoii, M. Chaumont, and the Jesuits, which was acted by coraniand of His JVIajesty the French king in 1GS8, at Bankok and Louvo. For an account of the extraordinary alliance projected between the king's of France and Cochin China, and which was disconcerted only by the breaking out of the French revolution, sec the historical sketch in Barrow's Cochin China from p. 230 throughout. The political importance attaching to such a connexion is incalculable ; every one must in this agree with the opinion of Mr. Barrow, that " it is difficult to say what the consequences of such a treaty miglit have been to our possessions in India, and to the trade of the East India Company with China ; but it is sufficiently evident that it had for its object the destruction of both." 868 MISSION TO SIAM tempts to enter into a more close union, have been kept a profound secret. Whatever may have been their nature, it is clear that they have been rejected by the Cochin Chinese. China, and not France, is the example which the pre- sent court follows in every thing. No French- men have been received into its service since the death of the late king ; and though we have rea- son to believe that the councils of the two, now in office, have not been favourable to the inte- rests of the mission, it is alike evident that they were totally incapable of influencing the court in favour of the proposals of their own countrymen. When they saw that we were surprised and dis- appointed at the determination of the court to refuse an audience to the envoy of the Governor General of India, they insinuated indirectly that there were others who had also been refused ; and subsequently told us more plainly that we ought to be the less concerned at this refusal, for that M. Cargariau, Captain of the French frigate Sy- bil, bearing letters and presents from the French minister of marine, had been refused an audience of the king in 1817. It was to little purpose that we told the Frenchmen that the cases were by no means parallel ; like the Mandarin of Stran- gers they always dwelt as a derriier resort upon the change of court etiquette that had taken place. AND COCHIN CHINA. 369 With this manifest decline of French inte- rests and councils, it remains to be proved, whether without such influence, the Cochin Chi- nese are capable of maintaining that spirit which has raised their country to its present rank, and advanced it beyond the condition of its neigh- bours. 1st Oct. — We went to visit M. Chaigneaux,but not finding him at home, we proceeded towards the principal bazar accompanied by his nephew, an intelligent young man. We had seen but a small part of the bazar, when a petty officer in- formed Mr. Crawfurd that we must have an order from the Mandarin of Strangers, — on which we turned back. The bazar was well supplied with the more coarse and common articles of Chinese, but afforded very little of domestic, manufacture. Soon after our return home, the assistant to the Mandarin of Strangers, the same old man that had come to take the letter for the king, came from the former to say that as the English had not yet had any commerce with the country, and could not therefore have gained any advan- tages, his majesty could not think of accepting the presents ; but that if the English should re- turn another year, he would then accept what- ever was agreeable to him, paying for the same, in money, or in produce ; that with respect to the 2 B 370 MISSION TO SIAM ceremony of being presented at court, it was ne- cessary to have all the mandarins in their robes, and all the court in their full dresses ; that this was a great ceremony, reserved for the envoys of kings; that had Mr. Crawfurd come from the king of England, he would have been presented, but that in the present case it was as if the go- vernor of Saigon sent an envoy to a monarch. He added further that the tariff should be sent, and that the English should be permitted to trade to all the ports of Cochin China and Ton- quin, on paying the established duties. He ad- vised that the ship's long boat should be sent back without delay, for that the bad season might otherwise prevent her altogether from returning ; that we ourselves might proceed either by sea or by land to Turon bay. This was probably the most favourable, and perhaps the only, opportunity for making a re- presentation on the subject of the presentation. Such representation might, it is possible, though in my opinion not at all likely, have produced some delay or alteration in the commercial con- cerns, and this was doubtless Mr. Crawfurd's reason for expressing his satisfaction at the arrangements that had been made. There re- mained, in fact, nothing to be asked on the sub- ject of commerce ; so that they had made no con- cessions, no sacrifices whatever on that account. AND COCHIN CHINA. 371 They would receive our ships as they did those of the Chinese, the French, the Dutch, the Americans. Where we had no favour to ask, no boon to soKcit, we might, it seems to me, have urged what is due to a great government, and has been accorded by other nations of India, with the greater warmth. Before this man had left us, Messrs. Vannier and Chaigneaux came to visit us. They had been sent by the king to explain what had been said by the assistant to the Mandarin of Stran- gers. Their communication was to the same effect as that of the other. It was on this occa- sion that they mentioned that M. Cargariau had not seen the king. October 3. — After passing the morning with M. Chaigneaux, we visited the principal bazar. It consists of a spacious street about a mile in length, with shops on either side the whole of its length. Many of the shops are mere paltry huts, made of palm-leaves ; the rest are more substantial houses, constructed chiefly of wood, and have tiled or thatched roofs. Here, also, the poverty of the shops was particularly striking. A very large proportion contained nothing but shreds of gilt and coloured paper used in reli- gious ceremonies, and at funerals. Chinese porcelain, of a coarse description; fans, lacquered boxes, Chinese fans, silks, and crapes, the two 2 B 2 872 MISSION TO SIAM latter in small quantity ; medicines without num- ber, coarse clothes made up, large hats made of palm-leaf, and a sort of jacket of the same ma- terial ; rice, pulse, and fruit ; sago, made from the seeds of a species of nymphsea, were the common articles exposed for sale. There were but few, and those very coarse articles of manu- factured iron, as nails, hatchets, and chisels, which bore a high price. The Cochin Chinese carry purses, in which they put their betel and tobacco ; these are very neat, and usually thrown over the shoulders of the men; they are made either of plain blue silk, or embroidered in gold, and may be had at all prices, from half a dollar to fifteen. Men of rank have them carried by their servants. In this bazar the shops are held almost entirely by natives of the country. There are scarcely any Chinese amongst them. AND COCfllN CHINA. BTS CHAPTER X. Physiological Exterior op the Cochin Chinese. — Cos- tume. — Moral Character. — Religion. — Brutalizing Effects of a Despotic Government. — Military Servi- tude. — Population. — Rains and Inundations. — Costume OF the Rainy Season. — Visit to the Tacoon. — Tablets and Boxes ornamented with the Mya Shell. — Letter and Presents for the Governor General. — The Agent declines accepting the Presents for the Governor General. — Regulations respecting Trade. — Extent of Permission retracted. — A Repast. — Rotten Eggs AND Chickens in the Shell a Chinese Delicacy, and Token of Royal Favour. — The Mandarin op Han. — Letter to the Governor General refused. — Pitiful Spirit of the Cochin Chinese Government. — Chinese Player. — The King of the Drama Bambooed. — Final Interview with the Mandarin op Strangers. — Return TO TuRON. — Beautiful Country. — Canal.— Salt-water Lake. — Grand Scenery. — Route. — Botanical Observa- tions. — Palanquins and Bearers. — Granitic Country. — Excellent Roads. — Re-embark. We had by this time seen a large proportion of the people, and our intercourse with them had brought to light traits of moral character, which, under a less intimate acquaintance, had lain concealed ; while at the same time we gained a more intimate knowledge of their phy- sical form. It is extraordinary how little diver- 374 MISSION TO SIAM sity there exists in the latter, in regard either of stature or of features. In their physical exterior, they present a com- pound which accords not very correctly with any of the tribes whose peculiarities we have before attempted to describe. In some respects, in- deed, the resemblance is sufficiently obvious ; yet in others it is much less so, if not rather of an opposite character. It appears to me, how- ever, that a strict analysis of the aggregate in their physical form, will lead to the conclusion that this nation also has sprung from the Tartar race, and that it constitutes a variety of that great and widely-disseminated branch of man- kind. In point of stature, the Cochin Chinese are, perhaps, of all the various tribes that belong to this race, the most diminutive. We remark that they want the transverse breadth of face of the Malays ; the cylindrical form of the cranium, as well as the protuberant and expanded coronoid process of the lower jaw of the Siamese, and the oblique eyes of the Chinese. In common with all of these, they have a scanty, grisly, straggling beard ; coarse, lank, black hair ; small dark eyes ; a yellowish complexion ; a squat, square form ; and stout extremities. I shall here, however, enter more at large into the description of this variety. It is no very AND COCHIN CHINA. 375 difficult task, at least for an attentive observer, to seize upon those points in the form of the Cochin Chinese, which serve to distin- guish them both from the neighbouring and other nations. It is more difficult to convey, in accurate and precise terms, correct notions of these distinctions to others. The subject of the filiation of nations, though one of the deepest interest, is still involved in much obscurity. We see impressed upon the whole of the human race, through every variety, every modification of cli- mate, under every condition of barbarous or of civilized life, one general, one universal form, from which there is, in fact, no deviation. It is true, that there are tribes so different from others in appearance, that we almost conclude that they constitute different species of animal beings. Yet the difference is, perhaps, in all cases, more apparent than real, more imaginative than na- tural. When we would inquire into the origin, the history, the connexions, of a particular tribe, or the prevalence of a particular form or feature, we are often compelled to confess that we are at a loss to discover characters in all respects satisfactory. The interest of the subject will always claim for it the patient investigation of reflecting men, and will in time, doubtless, re- move many of the difficulties in which it is at present involved. 376 MISSION TO SIAM To return to the subject of the Cochin Chinese. In the consideration of their external form, the circumstance which chiefly strikes an European observer is their diminished form. Their squat and broad shape augments the effect of this cha- racteristic, so that they appear more diminutive than they actually are. Of twenty-one persons, taken chiefly from the class of soldiers, the others being citizens, the average height was five feet, two inches, and three-fourths : of eleven of the same persons, the average length of the arm amounted to 12.4 inches : of the fore-arm, 10.15 inches, and the girth of the chest at the broadest part, to two feet, nine inches. It has been remarked, that the Cochin Chinese are of a yellowish colour. It is very rare to find amongst them any that are very black. Many of the females in particular are as fair as the generality of the inhabitants of the south of Europe. The globular form of the cranium, and the orbicular shape of the face are peculiarly cha- racteristic of the Cochin Chinese. The head projects more backwards than in the Siamese; it is smaller and more symmetrical, in regard to the body, than in the tribes already noticed, and the transverse diameters both of the occiput and sinciput are very nearly equal. The forehead is AND COCHIN CHINA. 377 short and small, the cheeks round, the lower part of the face broad. The whole countenance is in fact very nearly round, and this is more particularly striking in women, who are reckoned beautiful in proportion as they approach this form of face. The eyes are small, dark, and round. They want the tumid, incumbent eye- lid of the Chinese, and hence they derive a sprightliness of aspect unknown to the latter. The nose is small, but well formed. The mouth is remarkably large, the lips are promi- nent but not thick. The beard is remarkably scanty, yet they cultivate it with the greatest care. There are amongst them those who can number scarce one dozen of hairs upon the chin, or on the whole of the lower jaw. That on the upper lip is somewhat more abundant. The neck is for the most part short. Before quitting this part of the subject, I may remark that there is in the form of the head a degree of beauty, and in the expression of the countenance a de- gree of harmony, sprightliness, intelligence, and good-humour, which we should look for in vain either in the Chinese or Siamese. The shape of the body and limbs in the Cochin Chinese, differs but little from that of the tribes already noticed. The chest is short, large, and well expanded ; the loins broad ; the 3W MISSION TO SIAM upper extremities are long, but well formed ; the lower are short, and remarkably stout. There is this remarkable difference from the others of the same race, that here the tendency to obesity is of rare occurrence. The limbs, though large, are not swollen with fat. The muscular system is large and well developed, and the leg in par- ticular is almost always large and well formed. The Cochin Chinese, though a laughing, are not a fat, people. The costume of the Cochin Chinese may be described in a few words. The subject is more deserving of attention, in that it also presents them to us in a peculiar light different from that under which their neighbours appear. Though living not only in a mild, but warm climate, the partiality for dress is universal. There is no one, however mean, but is clothed at least from the head to the knee, and if their dress is not always of the smartest, it is owing more to their poverty than to their want of taste. Nor is it comfort or convenience alone that they study. They are not above the vanity of valuing them- selves on the smartness of their dress, a failing which often leads them into extravagance. You will often see a well-dressed man without a sin- gle quhan in his possession. The principal and most expensive article in AND COCHIN CHINA. 39^ their dress is the turban. That of the men is made of black crape, of the women of blue. On occasions of mourning, it is made of white crape. A loose jacket, somewhat resembling a large shirt, but with wide sleeves, reaching nearly to the knee, and buttoning on the right side, con- stitutes the principal covering of the body. Two of these, the under one of white silk, are gene- rally worn, and they increase the number ac- cording to their circumstances and the state of the weather. Women wear a dress but little different from this, though lighter, and both wear a pair of wide pantaloons, of various co- lours. The dress of the poorer class is made of coarse cotton, but this is not very common, coarse silks being more in vogue. Those of China and Tonquin are worn by the more opu- lent classes. Shoes also are worn only by the wealthy, and are of Chinese manufacture, clogs, in fact, rather than shoes. After this account of the physical exterior of the Cochin Chinese, I shall add a few words re- specting their moral character. Any account of a matter so intricate, must, on so short an ac- quaintance, be necessarily imperfect. The sub- ject, in its different bearings, is besides so ex- tensive, that I can at most but hint at a few points. Of these the most important and most remark- 380 MISSION TO SIAM able is religion. The nation may, in fact, be said to be without any religion whatever. They have neither religious instruction nor instructors, priests, nor any body of men, whose function is to encourage its cultivation, or by their conduct to set an example to the great body of the peo- ple. Every man is free to act in this matter as he thinks fit. The better sort affect to follow the precepts of Confucius. The theism of the Chi- nese is as cold-hearted and unaccompanied by feeling, as it is crude, undefined, and uncertain in its principles. It appears to have no effect whatever on their conduct, nor do they enter- tain any intelligible notions on the subject. It would appear to be fashionable to profess it ; but they neither talk of it, nor have any means of knowing what fashion perhaps alone induces them to profess. The human mind, under every condition of life, has formed to itself certain notions of a future state. The untutored mind, led away by its fears, soon becomes involved in the intricate mazes of superstition, in which the mind too often paints undefined, unreal terrors. Such is the case with the Cochin Chinese, whose reli- gion, if it is ever thought of, consists in the ceremony of placing on a rude altar some bits of meat and a few straws covered with the dust of scented wood, or in scattering to the winds a few AND COCHIN CHINA. 381 scraps of paper covered with gold foil; or in sticking a piece of writing on a post or door, or to a tree. You inquire in vain for the motives of such acts. The objects of their fear are as nu- merous as they are hideous. One form of super- stition is observed by sea-faring people, another by those who live upon the coast, and a different form by those inhabiting agricultural districts. Thus, if not absolutely without religion, the Cochin Chinese can scarcely be said to derive moral feeling from this source. It may, perhaps, with truth be observed, that it is better that a people should have no religion than a false one. The nation in question will furnish an argument in favour of this opinion. It might be supposed that the first, the necessary consequence of the want of religion, would be a total disregard of right and wrong : this, however, is not the case> for in many respects the Cochin Chinese are superior to their neighbours, who are devoted to their national religion. If they are destitute of that aid which is derived from true religion, they are likewise free from the degrading trammels of a false one. A more direct engine than that of religion itself, has modified, if not formed, the moral character of the people ; it is that of an avaricious, illiberal, and despotic government, the effect of which, so sedulously pursued through a course of ages, it is melancholy and revolting 382 MISSION TO SIAM to human nature to contemplate. It has involved the whole body of the people in perpetual and insurmountable poverty ; it has debased the mind ; it has destroyed every generous feeling ; it has crushed in the bud the early aspirations of genius ; it has cast a blasting influence over every attempt at improvement. Such being the character of the government, it will not appear surprising that the moral character of the people should in many respects be brutalized. What is defective in their character has been occasioned by perpetual slavery and oppression ; yet not- withstanding all this, they display traits of moral feeling, ingenuity, and acuteness, which, under a liberal government, would seem capable of rais- ing them to an elevated rank amongst nations. But they are perpetually reminded of the slavery under which they exist; the bamboo is perpe- tually at work, and every petty, paltry officer, every wretch who can claim precedence over another, is at liberty to inflict lashes on those under him. But the tameness with which they submit to this degrading discipline, alike appli- cable to the people as to the military, is the most extraordinary circumstance. Their obedience is unlimited, nor do they, by word or by action, ma- nifest tlie sUghtest resistance to the arbitrary de- cisions of their tyrants. It will not appear sur- prising that this system should render them AND COCHIN CHINA. S8S cunning, timid, deceitful, and regardless of truth ; that it should make them conceited, impudent, clamorous, assuming, and tyrannical, where they imagine they can be so with impunity. Their clamorous boldness is easily seen through, and the least opposition or firmness reduces them to the meanest degree of submission and fawning. Such are the more revolting traits in their character : they are in a great measure counter^ balanced by a large share of others that are of a more amiable stamp. They are mild, gentle^ and inoffensive in their character, beyond most nations. Though addicted to theft, the crime of murder is almost unknown amongst them. To strangers, they are affable, kind, and attentive ; and in their conduct they display a degree of genuine politeness and urbanity quite unknown to the bulk of the people in other parts of In- dia*. They are besides lively and good-hu- * In their persons, the Cochin Chinese are far from being- a cleanly people. Many of their customs are, in fact, extremely disgusting. Those ablutions so much practised by all the Western Asiatics, are here unknown ; and their dress is not once washed from the time it is first put on, till it is no longer fit for use. There appears but little ground for an opinion commonly en- tertained of this people, that they are dissolute, and that female virtue is held in little repute. The conduct of both sexes in public is altogether correct and decorous. The frailties of married women are said to be looked upon by all ranks with the greatest indignation and abhorrence, while the punishment awarded by the laws amounts to the greatest, and even to revolting, severity. With 3S4 MISSION TO SI AM moured, playful, and obliging. Towards each other, their conduct is mild and unassuming, but the omission of accustomed forms or ceremonies, the commission of the slightest fault, imaginary or real, is followed by immediate punishment. The bamboo is the universal antidote against all their failings. Like the Chinese, this nation is addicted to the worship of ancestors, and reveres the memory of relations. This may, in fact, be considered as the only trait of religion that exists amongst them. Whatever may have been its origin, whether, like most institutions of a similar nature, it has degenerated into a set and formal ceremony that touches not the heart, we ought perhaps to consider it as of an amiable nature. The political aim of the institution, the only one of the kind in which the government takes a part, inculcating it strongly upon the minds of the people, is not be overlooked. It is respect to unmarried women, the greatest liberty is conceded in matters of this sort, nor does even public opinion oppose the smallest obstacle to the freest indulgence of their inclinations. The utmost degree of liberty is conceded to them, and the con- nexions they form with their male acquaintances, whether tem- porary or durable, whatever consequence may follow, is in no manner prejudicial to the woman's future prospects, nor is she the less respected by her future husband. The lesser chiefs make no scruple in giving their daughters, for a sum of money, to any one who is to reside for a short time in the country. Indeed, there seems to be little other ceremony in matrimonial treaties than that of giving. AND COCHIN CHINA. 3S5 that of preventing its subjects from going abroad, and thereby contributing to retain them in a state of ignorance and slavery. The Cochin Chinese are more industrious than we should be apt to suspect, considering the op- pressive nature of the government. Where the government interferes but little, as in the fishe- ries on the coast, their industry is indeed very conspicuous, and there seems every reason to believe that, w^ere they freed from oppression, they would be equally so in other branches. They are capable of supporting a large share of fatigue ; and the quantum of daily labour, as for instance in the operation of rowing, or of run- ning, is in general very considerable. But the greatest obstacle to the developement of indus- try proceeds from the oppressive nature of the military system, by which about two-thirds of the male population are compelled to serve as sol- diers, at a low and inadequate rate of pay. Of all the grievances they labour under, it would appear that they consider this the most oppres- sive. It not only takes from agriculture and other occupations, the hands necessary for such labours, but by the idle habits which the mili- tary service generates in the men, it renders them unfit to return to that condition of life. The consequence of this system may easily be con- gc 3S6 AFISSION TO SIAM jectured, tliough not perhaps to the full extent. Almost all kinds of labour are performed by wo- men, whom it is not unusual to see guiding the plough and sowing the seed. Besides, the la- bour of women is paid at an equal rate with that of the men. The daily wages for either is one mas and their food, or two mas, without it. Another great evil arising out of the military system of levy, consists in the destruction of fa- mily connexions and ties. From the age of seven- teen to twenty, a selection of the youth is made for military service, from which there is no re- tiring until age or infirmity has rendered them incapable of further service. It is true that, from time to time, they are allowed to return to their homes on leave of absence ; but it is to be feared that a temporary residence of this nature affords a feeble barrier to the unsocial tendency of the system. But in order to form correct notions of the ef- fect of the military system, we ought to know precisely the proportion taken out of a certain number of the people. This proportion, however, has been so differently stated by different per- sons, that it is extremely difficult to assume any degree of probability on the subject. It has been stated that usually two-thirds of the male population from twenty to fifty are taken. It AND COCHIN CHINA. 387 should be observed that the French gentlemen state that, in general, one-third of the soldiers are on leave of absence. The answers to our inquiries respecting the population of the country, or of any particular town or district, have been attended with the same degree of uncertainty, and therefore I have for the most part passed the subject over in si- lence. It has rarely happened that we have had an opportunity of conversing with persons suffi- ciently enlightened to possess correct notions on this subject ; and it seems very doubtful if any exact data, calculated to provide an accurate esti- mate of the amount, are in the possession even of the government. The French gentlemen, speaking from conjecture, estimated the popula- tion of the kingdom at 10,000,000. French writers have estimated it at three times that amount. It is agreed by ail that Tonquin is more populous than Cochin China. The gold and silver mines alone of that country give employ- ment to no less than 10,000 industrious China- men, with their families. Oct. I2th. — TheTacGon, or Mandarin of Stran- gers, sent to say, that the letter for the Governor General of Bengal, and the papers relating to commercial affairs were in readiness, and that he wished to deliver them. A boat was sent for us at an early hour, and we set out for the Tacoon's 2 c 2 388 MISSION TO SIAM house immediately after breakfast. We were several hours in reaching the place, on account of the rapidity of the current. From the 5th instant, with but one or two days of intermis- sion, it had rained almost constantly, and in such quantity, that the rains we had experienced near to the line, in Siam and in Bengal, where they are periodical, seemed insignificant compared with these. The waters poured down in drenching torrents, frequently for two days and nights with- out intermission. They were accompanied with but little lightning. For the most part a strong -wind from the north-east prevailed. The baro- meter which, previous to this change in the wea- ther, had scarcely indicated any perceptible vari- ation, even in its ordinary diurnal tide, being al- most constantly at 29.8, or from that to 29.85, now gradually fell to 29.635, at which it conti- nued stationary during the rain. The thermo- meter at the same time scarcely varied from 77. 5°. The country was speedily deluged with water, and in a short time the rooms we occupied were scarce an inch above the level of the inundation, it having already overflowed the other parts of the house. Our neighbours in the same street were in still worse plight, the water having already entered their houses. The people were now seen moving about the streets in boats^, where but the day before they had passed on dry AND COCHIN CHINA. 389 ground. The lower orders make use of a dress well calculated to defend the body against injury from wet ; and in no country perhaps is such a dress more required. It is made of palm-leaves closely sewed together, and reminds you, by its appearance, of the Siberian dressed in shaggy skins. It consists of a hat, in the shape of a basket, that comes down over the shoulders, and is from two and a-half to three feet or more in diameter. It is bound under the chin. The body is covered by a round jacket without sleeves. The hat and jacket are impervious to water. There were few to be seen abroad at this time who were not dressed in these useful, but rude habiliments. From these they derive so much protection, that the rain apparently OC' casions but little interruption to their occupa- tions. When we arrived at the Tacoon's house we found the two French mandarins in their boats, and ready to enter with us. The Tacoon was seated as before, and dressed in plain robes of blue silk. Behind him was suspended, against the wall, a board on which were written some Chinese characters ; the letters were executed in mother-of-pearl, and from the manner in which the light was reflected from their surface, ap- peared as if they were embossed in the richest style. The workmaniijhip was of extreme beauty ; 890 MISSION TO SIAM the chief seeing that it attracted my attention, took care to inform us that he had caused it to be made in his own house. We had already seen some very elegant boxes inlaid with mother- of-pearl. Some of them displayed a correctness of taste, and a degree of beauty which we had but little expected. They were not to be com- pared with what we now saw. These boxes are only to be procured from the chiefs. The best of them are said to come from Tonquin, and the shell, an extremely thin, translucent, and elegant species of Mya, is brought from the mouth of the river of Saigon. If the Japan boxes are more elegant, these are the most durable. The colours never change, and the varnish is excel- lent. On this occasion there were but few people in attendance at the house of the Tacoon. He re- ceived us as on the former occasion, without quitting his seat, and we took our places at a table opposite to him, upon a form covered with carpets, and opposite to four mandarins, who were seated at the table with us. It seemed as if the old man were pleased at having brought the affairs of the mission to a favourable conclusion. He was in high spirits, talked and laughed much and very heartily, and evidently wished to impress us with notions fa- vourable to himself and his countrymen. He AND COCHIN CHINA, 391 commenced the conversation, by observing tliat whatever might be the custom in Europe, it was quite contrary to their notions of propriety to open a letter intended for the king, and that the letter from the Governor General of Bengal to the king of Cochin China had been opened at Saigon. It was explained to him that this was done, contrary to the inclination and to the great inconvenience of the Agent of the Governer Gene- ral, by the governor of Saigon, who insisted upon seeing the original letter. It was added that the governor of Saigon had received us in a very friendly manner, and that his motive in wishing to see the letter seemed to arise from some doubts that he probably entertained respecting the real objects of the mission. No further no- tice was taken of the matter. Some papers were lying before him on the table. He observed that these were copies of the letter to the Governor General, and of the commercial regulations ; that correct copies should be delivered to the Agent of the Governor Ge- neral, but that it was their custom carefully to seal up and enclose in a box the original letters, which were to be delivered in that state to the Governor General. The papers were now delivered to be read. The letter for the Governor General was not in the name of the King, but from the Tacoon him- S92 MISSION TO SIAM self; the general import was as follows: that Mr. Crawfurd had brought a letter for the king, which, being in the English language, they could not understand ; but that having a Chinese inter- preter with him, they understood through the latter that the object of the letter was to obtain for the English commercial intercourse with Cochin China ; that Mr, Crawfurd had offered, on the part of the Governor General, 500 mus- kets and two chandeliers. The English should be permitted to trade on the same conditions as the Chinese, Portuguese, and French nations. The King sent as a present to the Governor General, a few catties of cinnamon of the first quality, some of inferior quality, some agila wood, two rhinoceros' horns, elephants' teeth, and a few peculs of sugar-candy. The Agent of the Governor General had been presented with some agila wood, two elephants' teeth, and the horn of a rhinoceros. Such was the subject of the letter. Mr. Crawfurd now expressed his satisfaction at the hospitality and kind treatment we had experienced since our arrival, as well as with the manner in which the objects of the mission had been conducted ; that he had no doubt, the more the two nations were acquainted with each other, the better friends they would become ; that he should accept of the presents which the King AND COCHIN CHINA. 393 had been pleased to offer to him, with all be- coming respect, and consider them as an honour- able mark of personal distinction; that with regard to the presents intended for the Governor General, the mandarins must well know that things of this sort were by no means necessary to ensure the friendship of powers so well dis- posed towards each other ; that he hoped, there- fore, the King would not take it amiss if he declined receiving them ; that he would, however, do what might be considered equivalent, he would go, as proposed at first, to the hall of ceremonies to view them, and that he would report to the Governor General that such things had been offered. It seems as if the mandarins had been pre- pared to receive an answer of this nature, and the French gentlemen observed that they had stated it as their opinion that the presents for the Governor General would not be received. The mandarin, in a good-humoured way, used every argument that he could think of to induce Mr. Crawfurd to accept them ; but being as- sured repeatedly that this could not be done without an express order to that effect, he de- sisted, and the matter seemed amicably, if not satisfactorily, adjusted on both sides. The Ta- coon said that the letters should be delivered on the following day, and that at an early hour a 394; MISSION TO SIAM boat should be sent to convey us to the hall of ceremonies, in the palace, where the presents would be laid out for inspection. He had asked, on our entrance, whether we wished to return by sea or by land ; and on its being answered by land, he said that it was not at present very practicable to go by sea; and that he would give us his boat to convey us the first stage of our journey, which it would be more agreeable to accomplish by wa,ter, the navigation being in- land. Palanquins and bearers should be pro- vided to convey us the rest of the way. vSatisfied with this arrangement, we fixed our departure for the morning of the 14th. He observed, that a certain number of bullocks, hogs, goats, ducks, fowls, rice, and sugar, would be offered for the use of the ship, and conveyed to Turon. Mr. Crawfurd answered that he would accept them with pleasure, and again expressed his satisfaction at the liberality of the commercial regulations. During the time we remained here, the Mandarin had sent his assistant to communi- cate respecting the commercial regulations. It was agreed that the English should be permitted to trade to all the ports of Cochin China ; and that their ships should be measured in the manner that the Chinese junks were. The Mandarin now ob- served that permission had been granted to trade to the ports of Saigon, Han, (Bay of Turon,) AND COCHIN CHINA. 395 and Hue. This is, in fact, restricting it to the two former; the difficulties attending the entrance of the latter, impeded by a shallow bar at its mouth, and exposed to a wide and open sea, rendering the permission almost of no avail. He observed that Tonquin being a lately con- quered country, the King had thought proper to restrict the trade in the manner mentioned. From the readiness with which leave had in the first instance been granted to trade to all the ports in the kingdom, and from the surprise which that communication excited in our very obliging friends, but very certainly also our poli- tical enemies, the French gentlemen, when the matter was mentioned to them incidentally by Mr. Crawfurd, there appeared reason to suspect that the restrictions now made were of their coun- selling. Mr. Crawfurd expressed his assent to these restrictions. Whilst the latter part of the conversation was going forward, preparations were making for a repast. The table was soon covered with sweet- meats, jelhes, roasted ducks and fowls, and a great variety of fruits, of which we were re- quested to partake. The Mandarin now laid aside the distant and formal manner which he had hitherto observed, and, approaching the ta- ble, conversed with much familiarity, laughing as before very loudly at times. Four or five 396 MISSION TO SIAiM young children had collected round him. He observed that these were part of thirty-six children who were now alive and in his house, and that the entire number of whom he had been the parent was fifty-four. He said that he was now sixty-six years of age, that he had served three kings, and had filled the office he now holds for the last twenty-one years, and that he ex- pected to have more children born to him. All his children had been born, he said, since the late king had ascended the throne. Previous to that period, being engaged in war, flying from place to place, pursuing or pursued, he had found how unfavourable such a life is to the increase of families, but that he hoped he had profited by the quiet which followed. The mandarins opposite to us seemed to re- lish the repast. They devoured rather than ate of it, and, with an avidity and coarseness of manner which was altogether disgusting. Fat pork and rotten eggs they seemed to consider as delectable morsels, and were not sparing of their powers of consumption. It will appear scarcely credible to an European, that both here and in many parts of China, fresh eggs are looked upon with indifference, while those that have become to a certain degree putrid are much esteemed, and that the latter cost in the market thirty per cent, more than the former. AND COCHIN CHINA. .397 Eggs that contain young ones arc still more highly esteemed, and, amongst the numerous dishes sent to us by the king, were two plates full of hatched eggs, containing young that were already fledged. We were assured that this was considered as a mark of great distinction. Doubting still of the fact, we sent them to the soldiers appointed as our guard, who gobbled them up in haste with the most luxurious voracity. The table was now cleared, and the conversa- tion that followed was of a general nature ; when, to our great astonishment, the little mandarin of Han, a man who had often visited us both here and on board ship, without giving us any more favourable notion of his capacity than that of his being a poor silly creature, with scarcely two ideas in his head, got up, and, in a loud and sharp voice, exclaimed, that we had come from the Governor of a province, that we had offered presents to a great king, who, not receiving them, we were now returning without the pre- sents he had deigned to offer. Had the little man done that justice to the bottle, which he did to the fat pork and hatched eggs, one might have supposed this intemperate remark to have proceeded from inebriety. It would appear, however, to have been the result of pure folly, for on this, though not on all the occasions we had seen him, lie was apparently sober. Before 398 MISSION TO SIAM he had time to proceed further, Mr. Crawfurd replied, that he had not called for the opinion of this mandarin, and would hear no more from him. That the matter having been fully dis- cussed with the Tacoon, in their presence, it was now surely at rest. The little mandarin evi- dently felt this as a keen rebuke. Mistaking the nature of the part which I had performed in the transactions of the day, and conceiving himself to be on terms of great intimacy with Mr. Craw- furd, he thought that such an observation could, only have come from me. So, rising again, with still more animated energy, he observed, that there was but one name in the Governor Gene- ral's letter, meaning thereby, that but one had a right to speak there. He said nothing further, and sat dovv^n, apparently much offended ; the more so for that I could not help laughing at his mistake. The Tacoon also laughed very heartily at the occurrence. The observation however, though seemingly thrown out by accident, made some impression upon the two mandarins, se- nior to that of Han ; and the Tacoon, seeing that it Vv'as likely to lead to further discussion, ter- minated the affair by saying, that he would re- fer the matter to the king. Thus, by one un- lucky, unnecessary expression of a weak and foolish man, were our plans entirely frustrated. The conversation on our part was carried on AND COCHIN CHINA. 399 entirely in the French language, M. Chaigneaux acting as interpreter between us. Oct. I5th. — Two of the assistants to Tuan- kam, (Mandarin of Elephants,) who had been present at our last interview with him, called upon Mr. Crawfurd with a sealed copy of the Commercial Regulations. They said, that the letter for the Governor General could not be de- livered unless the presents were accepted; that those intended for Mr. Crawfurd and the ship should be delivered at Turon. They asked if Mr. Crawfurd really wished to have the letter ; and that if he would accept of the presents for the Governor General, it would be made out without delay. Mr. Crawfurd replied, that he had already delivered his sentiments on the subject of the presents, and that as to the letter, it was for the king to decide whether he should receive it or not. They inquired when we wished to depart, and were told, on the day after to-morrow. They said that we might visit the Tuan-kam on the following day, which was agreed to. They now took their leave, appa- rently disappointed at the result of the interview. It appeared that they thought Mr. Crawfurd could not return to Bengal without an answer to the letter to the king. IQth. — We visited the Mandarin of Strangers. He had sent a clerk early in the morning, to say 4oe iAiissroN to stam that four men only would be provided for carry- ing the baggage of Mr. Crawfurd, myself, a European clerk, an interpreter, and servant. We had been requested to state the day before, in writing, the number of persons that would be required for this purpose, and had mentioned twelve. We were now not a little surprised to learn that they had reduced this number to four, and not conceiving that such an order could have been authorized by the minister, sent the man away. Since the affair of the presents had been last agitated, a marked change had taken place in the conduct of those about Court towards us. They descended to acts of petty meanness which were altogether contemptible, and much more calcu- lated to excite contempt, derision, and pity, than any hostile feeling. It was but too evident that the King was piqued at the refusal of the pre- sents, and we had every reason to believe that the mean conduct which his ministers now ob- served was authorized by him. On this occa- sion we were landed at some distance from the minister's house, purposely, as it would seem, in order that v/e might have to walk some way in the sun, and over bad roads. In the court of the minister's house there was, as usual, a crowd of idle people, interspersed with players. The Chinese play would seem to be a favourite AND COCHIN CHINA. 401 amusement with the old man, for we found al- ways a band of players in attendance. The performance ceased as we entered the court. We had here a good proof in what esteem the heroes of the buskin are held. Not all their gibes and jokes are sufficient to raise them above the discipline of the bamboo. The Richard of the piece, the Kean of the party, was at this moment prostrate on the ground, with two men holding him down, and a stout fellow inflicting blows upon a tender part with all his might. The scene was inconceivably ridiculous. The gay, gilded casque of the hero, contrasted with his rueful and lengthened countenance, so abundantly expressive of the pain he suffered ; the gay flowing robes of flowered satin which formed his dress ; his large Tartar boots, &c., and the serious manner of those who held him in this state, were altogether irresistibly laughable. The Tuan Kayn received us on this occasion with even less ceremony than formerly. He was dressed in a plain flannel or cloth jacket, of a green colour, and a black turban, without any ornament whatever. Bare and naked wooden benches were given us to sit on ; the carpets, with which they and two old chairs had formerly been covered, being now removed. There was no one present but the chief himself, and a 2 D 402 MISSION TO SIMA number of his retainers, who had apparently assembled to witness the play. •rr The conversation was carried on through Mr Crawfurd's Chinese interpreter. The mandarin observed, that as the presents had not been accepted, the king had thought proper to countermand the letter to the Governor General ; but that the supplies for the ship's use should be delivered at Turon. Mr. Crawfurd mentioned the subject of the people for our baggage ; he observed that this had been done by the express order of the king himself, and that the order could not be reversed without much delay. He seemed as if conscious of there being some degree of meanness attached to this affair, for immediately thereafter he ob- served that it was no arrangement of his, and that he had nothing to do with it. He said that if English vessels came to trade, he would do all in his power to assist them, and to expedite their business. Mr. Crawfurd said, that as they were so anxious about the matter of the presents, he would take them on board, but he could not answer for their being received by our Govern- ment, and that he must protest against receiving them in the name of the Governor General. He replied, that it was better that matters should now rest as they were. This interview lasted • :^tco(< oitJ'io onO THOO bed AND COCHIN CHINA. 408 about half an hour. The old gentleman wished us a favourable passage to Bengal, and we bade him adieu. On our way back we called upon the French mandarins, and took leave of them. They had behaved towards us, during our stay, with undeviating kindness, politeness, and atten- tion, and to them we are indebted for many acts of civility. In whatever light they may have regarded the mission from Bengal, and it is but natural that they should have considered it as hostile to the interests of their country, they never allowed political feeling to influence their conduct with regard to us ; and on those occa- sions in which they acted as interpreters, they appeared, as far as I am capable of judging, to have done justice to the opinions of Mr. Craw- furd. If they have in any way influenced the conduct of the Court, it has not been in this particular. On our return home, we engaged men to carry our baggage, and prepared to depart on the fol- lowing day. Our business being now over, we had nothing further to detain us. The whole country was still inundated, and the rain still fell in great quantity. Oct. I7th. — Two boats were in readiness about nine a. m. to take us the first part of the journey by water ; they were in charge of the old man who had conveyed us from Turon. One of the boats, 2 D 2 40i illSSION TO SIAM though a very long vessel, offered but httle accom- modation, and was intended for our baggage. We had been informed by the Tuan Kayn that he v^rould send his own boat for our accommoda- tion. We were surprised to find it already occupied by the old skipper. He was told that the boat had been sent expressly for us, and that he must either leave it, or that we should. He argued and refused to move into his own boat for some time, but seeing us get up to go into it, he complied immediately. A third boat, containing a military guard armed with spears, joined us. We had ever since our arrival been guarded with the utmost strictness, and the system had not yet ceased. We proceeded up the river until we had passed the citadel a short way, when we entered a fine ca- nal on the left, and pursued its course almost di- rectly east, for the distance of eight or nine miles. The weather had cleared up, and we had a fine day. We were much pleased with the great beauty of the country, and the variety of its scenery. The low hills opposite to the Fort were here and there cultivated with upland-rice, and presented a beau- tiful appearance. The extensive plain on either side of the canal was overflown ; numerous villages tvere seen to line its distant boundaries. This ^'-iikrial is said to have been constructed ;by the ^^M^&f-^ (^"^ tlie-^reigning-Miig/v.it'-i^^^abouit: t w^ty AND COCHIN CHINA. -4^5 yards in breadth, and almost quite straight. Its banks are inhabited for about two miles towards the river^ and occasionally are seen some large and well constructed houses, surrounded by walls. It is altogether a work of great labour, and of no less utility, as besides the advantage of water- conveyance to a very considerable extent, it has enabled the cultivator to turn into rice-fields ex- tensive plains which formerly lay waste through the want of irrigation. The soil taken from the canal has been used chiefly for the manufacture of bricks, of which an immense num.ber has been used in the construction of magazines, and of the walls of the fort. We had travelled about eight miles, when the canal terminated in a marsh, but its banks were still to be traced by thick tufts of coarse grass, and numerous species of Sparganium, and of Carex, interspersed with a few shrubs, as Mela- stoma and Pandanus. At the distance of four miles farther, we came to the banks of a salt- water lake, in which the canal terminates. At this place there resides a petty chief, to whom it was necessary to shew our passport. A sluice separates the salt from the fresh water, and pre- vents the former from entering the rice fields, 8' We stopped here only for a few minutes, when we passed with impetuosity through the;. sluice \^ 'into the salt-water lake, the water of the canal ^ MISSION TO SIAM being at this time elevated considerably above that of the latter. We had now before us a vast and beautiful expanse of water, surrounded by a bold and picturesque country, uniting within it- self the sublime and imposing beauties of alpine and temperate countries, with those peculiar to the torrid zone. This is more correctly a bay than a lake ; the counterpart, and superior even in extent, as it certainly is in beauty, to the bay of Turon. In other respects, however, it is not to be compared with that excellent harbour, for though completely shut in by the land, and sur- rounded by mountains that afford shelter against every wind, the entrance from the sea is narrow, and there is said to be but two fathoms of water in the deeper parts. For boats it affords com- plete protection at all times ; and a considerable number were now passing in various directions. Numerous villages were to be seen at the foot of the hills, where there is in most parts room for cultivation, to a small extent, both of rice and of other grains. In two hours we crossed the lake, and passing through a narrow canal for the distance of two or three hundred yards, came to a neat and po- pulous village, surrounded on all sides by hedges of bamboo, so as to be completely concealed. The soil here is rich, and affords excellent crops of rice. We were directed to a large and 6om- AND COCHIN CHINA. AffT modious house, built for the accommodation of travellers. Some of the lower orders of the people were already at the place, and imme- diately procured fire, water, and whatever assist- ance was required of them, but no person of rank, or of authority, nor even the mandarin who conducted the boats, came near us. The people in attendance instantly complied with whatever orders our interpreters conveyed to them. Three interpreters had accompanied us from the capital, of whom two spoke Chinese, and one, a native Christian, Portuguese. In the hall, or principal room, a number of platforms of various heights were disposed for sleeping on. We were told not to occupy the highest, for that the king slept on when he passed this way. The people of the village soon collected round us in crowds in the room we occupied. Mere curiosity had brought them to see us, and though they were noisy, they did not attempt to touch any thing. The necessary preparations were made by the interpreters to enable us to depart early next morning. Our palanquins were produced, and bearers were furnished from the village. , We were surprised to see so few animals in this day's journey, the country appearing favour- able to the existence of several kinds. A large 408 MISSION TO SIAM species of black Fulica was almost the only bird we observed in the marshes. f>^.38i/i. — We commenced our journey in palan- quins, and reached the next stage in four hours, the distance appearing to be about ten or eleven miles. From the village to the foot of the hills, there is a distance of nearly three miles, through a well-cultivated and fertile, as well as beautiful, country. Though in the vicinity of the sea- shore, we observed no cocoa-nut trees. Areca nuts, plantains, sweet potatoes, betel leaf and tobacco, were the produce of the village gardens, as rice was of the fields that surround them. We found the palanquins that had been pro- vided for us, well adapted to the nature of the country, and at the same time both comfortable and easy. They consist simply of a netting of cotton thread, in shape like a sailor's hammock, stretched at both ends by a stick, and suspended from a slightly-curved pole or bamboo. The top is formed of palm leaves, neatly laid over each other, and covered on the outside with a durable, black varnish, which renders it water- proof. The sides are furnished with water-proof curtains, which are let down or taken up accord- ing. tp pircumstances. The whole is extremely light ; the, position in which the body is placed in this vehicle, is more agreeable and less la? ti^t!,ing,,thai>, ;in the more costly and shewy p^i AND COCHIN CHENA. -^ lanquins of Bengal, which require two men to carry them when empty, while in this two men are able to carry the stoutest person, nor are more than this number to be seen at any time under the pole. The Cochin Chinese, though short, are remarkably stout and well made. They travel under the palanquin faster than the Bengal bearers do, and make no stop until they reach the end of their journey. We were told that two was the usual number of bearers fur- nished for a palanquin. They were furnished to us in greater numbers, for at some stages four were provided, and at others six ; yet there were never more than two carrying at the same time. It was matter of surprise to us to see with what facility and quickness they ascended and descended very steep hills, leaping from stone to stone with the utmost certainty of footing. Being from ill health unable to leave the palanquin, I was at first somewhat alarmed at the boldness with which they proceeded, but soon saw that my fears were groundless. They were always cheer- ful under the greatest exertions they had to make, and when on one occasion, where the road was exceedingly steep, I made an attempt to ' walk, I had not proceeded above a few yards when they came round mc, and would let me journey no further in this way. The kind' dis- 410 MISSION TO SIAM position of these poor people was further exhi- bited by their attention in plucking flowers ^j^ fruits as we tiavelled. -- ^j| ,';. ,The first hill that we ascended appeared to be about 800 feet high and very steep. From this we descended into an extensive plain, partly culti- vated at the base of the mountains, but the greater part marshy, with a sandy soil, and over- grown with underwood. We found the village in which we halted, like the former, neat, clean, and comfortable. The houses erected for the accommodation of travellers are so much alike, that I need say no more than has been said of the last. - .-'.T h- tWe changed bearers at this place, and after three hours' stay recommenced our journey. We had again a very considerable hill to ascend, but :^ur bearers made very Hght work of it. When i we had gained the summit, a magnificent view opened before us. We looked down upon another of those extensive lakes, or inland bays, which we have already described. Descending the mountain, we passed along its left bank, through a saady soil, till we came to the junction of the lake with the sea, by means of a narrow and shallow neck. Here, also, there is a village, but (a poor one, the inhabitants of which appear to live almost entirely by fishing, 'od sfij'io 3m> m ;:]<:Jt; -will readily be conceived that the rugged AND COCHIN CHINA. 411 country we were now passing through affords but little ground capable of cultivation, and that the population must therefore be necessarily very scanty. What there is draws its maintenance more from the sea than from the land, and every bay swarms with boats. The hills present the usual luxuriance which vegetation assumes in other intertropical countries. Here, however, it may be added, is exhibited a greater variety in the products, though the general aspect of the vegetation is much the same. The country here is throughout granitic, and presents the usual rugged and bold appearance of all such countries. The roads, considering the nature of the country, are excellent, and seem to have been constructed with much labour. I9th. — We crossed the narrow neck of water at this place, and commenced the highest and steepest ascent we had yet attempted. The road lay over masses of granite, and was extremely rugged ; yet the bearers advanced with the greatest facility over ground which might have appeared impracticable to a less hardy people. -- We soon gained sight of the bay of Turon ■ from a great elevation. About noon we reached the village below, on the shore of the bay ; and, after a hasty breakfast, embarked for the ship in one of the boats of the nativesitna ;t8omk qyH be. Oct. 20th. — On our return, we had the happi- 412 MISSION TO SIAM. ness to find our friends and all on board in good health. For notwithstanding the politeness and good humour of our friends the Cochin Chinese, we had already begun to wish ourselves once more in the society of our countrymen. The party on board had, during our absence at the capital, amused themselves chiefly in making excursions to the various hills that surround the bay. These excursions procured us fewer zoolo- gical additions than we might reasonably have expected. Great numbers of a large species of Simla, with a blackish face, red cheeks, arms and thighs, gray upon the body, and furnished with a long tail, were seen in the woods. END OF THE JOURNAL. Erratum. p, 43, 1. 18, for those, rcud (hat> ■ KlA. .•^uiaaii/L SI* boo'g m bJBod no Us bns abnahl luo bnh oi ggsn (SganiilO aMdoD "to womud boo^ §nii>R tij3:tiq£o 9ri:t bniioiiua Jxiii; *o[oos lov/al 8U b' 97J5ri ^Idnr ■":.-;'' ._ armB laijioBld .s riiiw jBirniB beikmwi noqo -^^ig .arigidt bnB .wjiTtJisa ■■•A nA ,iA INDEX Agar-agar, 84 Agila wood, or lignum aloes. See Aquillaria agallocha. Albino quadrupeds frequent in Siam, 262 Alcedo, 21 Alcyonium, 51 Animal food used by the Siamese, 216 Apocynese, 273 Aquillaria agallocha, 94, 258 Archipelago of Siam, 42 Areca, 310. Catechu, 25 Argus pheasant, 32 Asteria, 52, 94 Astrology, addiction of Siamese to, 237 Attap, 113 Audience of the king at Bankok, 145, 164. Hall of audi- dience, 142 Balachang, a Siamese condiment, 215 Bambus verticillata, 1 1 Bankok, arrival at, 114. Of modern date, 209. Floating bazar, 115. Port of, regulations respecting English ships, 208. Few roads in its vicinity, 212. Manufactures, 214. Palaces and temples, 15G, 216, 219. Various tribes in-* habit, 223 Barkalan, or Pra Klang, 164 Barometer, 4, 82, 388 416 INDEX. Bauddhic and Egyptian religion, coincidences between, 221. Prayers, 187 Bay of Cocoa-nuts, 295 Bazars of India and Cochin China, 311. Of Kandyu, 301. Of Saigon, 317. Of Hue, 369, 371 Bingeh city, 312 Birds, 21, 77, 114, 261, 275, 285, 287, 296,408 Boats, royal of Siam, 181, 107, 116, 134. Trocession of, 182. Of Cochin China, 326 Boats Chinese, 116 Boletus, 1 Borabasoi mountain, 257 Borassus flabelliforrais, 8, 25. Caudata, 11. Gomutus, 25. Borneo, 81 Brahmans in Siam, 159, 187 Bromelia ananas, or pine-apple, species of, 30 Buceros, 21 Buddha, names of, 252. Commands of, 253. Of Siam and Ceylon contrasted 110, 111. Images of, 218, 220 Buggis, improve in naval architecture, 69 Calampac, or Colambac, 260 Calamus, 1, 30 Calendar of the Siamese, 249, 250, 251 Canal in Cochin China, beautiful scenery on, 404 Cape St. James, singularity of ebb tide near, 294 Cargariau, Captain, French envoy, 371 Carimon, the little, 42 Casuariiia equisetifolia, 99 Catechu or Gambir, 56 Cerealia, 27 Ceremonies at the public audience, negotiations respecting, 130. Mode adopted, 133 INDEX. MIS Certhia, 21 Chantibond, a valuable province of Siani, 25.3. Its products, 256. Population, 257. Amount of pepper produced, 257. Cardamoms, 257 Cliatt, a Siamese ornament, 144 Chau Pha, the prince, put to death by his uncle, 246 Chinese have not the usual Asiatic air, 13. Valuable settlers, 14, 115. Soon acquire wealth under British gor vernment, 14. Their houses, 62, 115. Compared with those of the Malabar settlers, 16. Addicted to gross feeding, 17, 63, 215. Their activity, 61. Its motive, 65. Traits of character, 64. Mental capacity, 66. Compaia- tive numbers, 67, 212. Their emigration temporary, 67, Insolence towards Europeans, 95. Privileges of in Siam, 166, 168, 245. Instance of the hospitality of, 315 Chinese junks, 68. Have no charts, 69 hinese symbolic characters a means of communication! among tribes using different languages, 94 Cholera morbus, a case of in Siam, 197 Christians native, 257 Chuliahs, or Malabar Moslems, 13 Chroma Chit engrosses the administration of affairs, 128. Interviews with, 127, 194. Is desirous of introducing vaccination, 197. Not the heir to the throne, but obtains it, 200 Clove tree, 29 Cochin China, Agricultural products, 310. Manufactures, 311. Paucity of Inhabitants seen, 350. Beauty of its scenery, 408, 411 Cochin Chinese, politics of, 179. Respecting foreigners, 320. Physiological appearance and national affinity, 298, 305. Character and manners, 299. Houses, 300. Very atten- "*"tive to dress, 301. Boats, 302. Troops, artillery, &c., 343, 365. Fort, 340. Are remarkably small, 305. Females, 2E 418 INDEX. 309. Singular moral discriminations respecting females, 310, 384. Promiscuous feeders, 310. Poverty of the country, 312. Contemptible spirit of the Cochin Chinese Court, 400, Regulations affecting British commerce, 394 Cochin Chinese ambassador received with honours at Ban- kok, 177, 182, 185 Cocoa nut, 24 Coffee tree, 29 Columba, 21, 285 Commerce of Siam a royal monopoly, 166. European valuable to the Siamese, 169. Concessions of Cochin China in favour of, 370. Regulations respecting, 394 Contortse, 26 Convolvulus pes capvse, 11. Species 17 Corals, 51 Costume, of Siam, 109. Of Cochin China, 296, 300, 378. Military, 302. Of the rainy season, 389. Cow and Calf Island, 2. Crinum, 35 Cycas revoluta, 80. Circinalis, 25 Dagoba, or Bauddhic monumental fane, comparison of, with Pyramids, 221. Form of, 156 Despotic government of the Siamese, 127. Baleful effects of, 265, 381 Dead, treatment of in Siam, 231. A singular custom, 232. Siamese mode of embalming, 233 Diard, Mr., 307. His discoveries in natural history, 308, 313 Dioscorea, or Yam, 87. Luxuriancy of its habit, 270 Dugong, or Halicora, 52 Duties, a reduction promised, 205 Eggs rotten, a Chinese delicacy, 396 INDEX. 419 Elate silvestris, 1 1 Elephant, albino, 151, 261. A spotted, 153. Exhibition of elephants, 323 Emblems religious, perpetual recurrence of, 305 nglish factory, ruins of an old, 290 Epidendrum, a gigantic species, 35. Species, 26 Equatorial regions, salubrity of, 47 Erythrina indica, 28 Etiquette of the court of Siam respecting shoes, 150. Of Cochin China respecting letters, 319. A pretext, 391 Euphorbia, 11 European manufactures scarcely to be met with in Cochin China, 311 Felis, 20 Factions or parties in the ministry of Siam, 203 • Females the labourers in Siam, 314 Fern, 26 Fever, intermittent, unknown at Singapore, 60 Fish abundant, 269 Flying, Siamese notions respecting the art of, 238. French influence in Cochin China, 367, 395. Mandarins, 353, 403 Funeral pile. 111. Obsequies of the Siamese, 235 Fucus, a remarkable species of, 55 Fu kok, or Pan kok Island, 92, 97. Inhabitants, 98. Plants, 98, 99. Isles in its vicinity, 100 Furs procurable at Bankok for the China market, 215 Galeopithecus variegatus, 19 Gambir, or Terra Japonica, 56 Geology, 6, 36, 37, 42, 44, 79, 89, 275, 289, 295 George Town, Penang, 15. Population, 15. Houses, 15 Gold mines of Chantibond, 256. Of Tonquin* 387. 2E2 42a INDEX. Governor-generars letter, 118 Graminese, singular paucity of, 288 Guns, enormous, 160 Grapes, 294 Hair, festival of cutting the lock of, 160, 186 Halicora Dugong, 52 Haya, a new genus of plants, 98 Hot winds of India, the effects of, 48 Hue, fort of, 351. Canal of, 348. River of, the most beautiful in Asia, 349 Indian, a race resembling the Indians met with in the Penin- sula of Malacca, 226 Inn, or stage-house, in Cochin China, 407 Intertropical winter, 21. Its eifect on plants, 22 Islands, groups of, 89, 91 Jasminum, 11 Justicia, 11 Kabouc, 37 Kandyu and its governor, 297 King of Siam is importunate for the presents sent by the Governor-general, 122, 123. His name, 166. Funeral obsequies, 240. Idol formed from his ashes, 241 Khon chook, ceremony of, 185 Kochai Sahac, Malay interpreter, 122. His character too late detected, 202 Lacerta, 275 Lake or bay, 405 Languages, comparison of the inland, or aboriginal, recom- mended, 226 Laurus, 1 INDEX. 421 Laws of Siam respecting adultery, 242. Theft and debt, 243 Leather dye, 214 Leopard, black, 32 Letter to Governor-general of British India, notice respecting, 206. From Governor-general to King of Cochin China, 313. To Governor-general from Cochin China, 392, 399, 402 Leyden, Dr., valuable comparison of languages by, 226 Life savage and refined contrasted by exemplars, 270 Luong Pra, the Barma monarch, 244 Macassar soldiers murder an English garrison, 290 Madrepore, 51 Malacca contrasted with Penang, 39. Nearly deserted, 39. Its fruit and fish, 39. Vicinity, 38 Malay, or Mopla, interpreter. See Kochai Sahac. Malay Peninsula, western coast has numerous islands, 4. Mountain ridges, 5 Malays, 71. Physiological aspect, 227. Fishermen, or oranglaut, 73 Mammalia, 261, 274, 285 Mandarins, their retinues numerous, 314. An official visit from, 306. Mandarin of Han, 397 Mangroves, 58. Utility of, 60 Manufactures of Europe scarce at Saigon, 311 Melastoma, 11 Menam river, 102. Plains on the banks, 113. Depth, 114. AtBankok, 116 Mines of precious stones, 256 Mission British arrives in Siam, 101. Bad auguries from verbal communications, 104. Visited only by people of low rank, 104, 201. Visit the chief of Packnam, 105. Restrictions on, 124. Procession of, to the palace, 137. Treated with disrespect by the crowd, 161. Inhospi- 422 INDEX. tality towards, 163. Received as a deputation from a province, 165. Lodged in an outhouse belonging to the minister, 119, Reflections thereon, 120. Its aftairs con- signed by the court of Siam to low intriguers, 201. Its reception contrasted with that of an embassy from Cochin China, 180, &c. Arrives in Cochin China, 295. Visited by the chief of Kandyu, 297. Arrive at Saigon, 303. Conferences with Mandarins, 306,313. Audience of the Governor, 317. Arrive in the bay of Turon, 328. Limited number allowed to visit Hue, 335. Strictly watched by armed men, 343, 404. Arrive at Hue, 351. Conference with the mandarin of elephants, 353. With the mandarin of strangers, 389, 399. Molluscse, 51 Monastery, a Siamese, 1 10 Mongol race, physiology of, 227 Monkies, white, 154 Monopoly. See Commerce. Morals and Religion, 379 Morinda citrifolia, 28 Motacilla, 11 Mount Palmer, 33 Mountains, isolated pyramidal, 281 Musa paradisiaca, 30 Mussenda frondosa, 26 Music, royal band, 142. Cultivated in Siam, 188. Of Pegu, reported excellence of, 189 Mya shell tablet, 389 Mythology, Hindu, in Siam, 217 Narcondam Island, 3. Natunas Islands, 81 Navigation of the Chinese, 70 Necromancers of Siam, 239 Negrais Cape, 2 INDEX. 423 Neptunian goblet, 51 Nipa fruticans, 25, 30 Numerals, Siamese, 249 ♦ Nutmeg-trees, 28 Orang laut, or men of the sea, 74,225. Their physiological appearance, 75 Packnam, meaning of the terra, 266 Painting, art of, in Siam, 218 Palace atBankok, 137, 138, 141 Palanquin, a Siamese, 137. Cochin Chai se and bearers, 408 Palm-tree, proof of an intertropical climate, 8. Varieties, 8, 11,17,23, 24, 35, 88, 285. Geographical distribution, 24 Pandanus, 8, 88. Fibre used for cordage, 29 Papra Straits, 10. Botanical observations, 11 Passer, 2, 21 Patella, 8 Peat, 31 Pelican, 21 Penang Shipping, 12. Population, 13, 15. Botany, 17. Luxuriant vegetation, reflections, 18. Highest altitude, 23. * Agricultural products, 27 -Pepper, 28. Quantity capable of being furnished by Siam, 1 32 Physiognomy of Ultra Gangetic nations, 229 Physical exterior of the Cochin Chinese, 374. Cranium, 376 Physiological comparison of the Siamese, &c., 224. Of the Malays, &c., 225 Phoenix brig, 170 Pia tac, or Pe ye tac, the Chinese King of Siam, 209. Founds Bankok, 210. History of, 244 Pigeon, 88 Plantain wild, 86. Its seeds described, 87. Supposed to be the original species, 87 424 INDEX. Plants, 8, 11, 24, 26, 54, 55, 80, 86, 98, 113,270,285, 288, 289, 290, 296, 330, 333, 349, 405. Physiology of, 82, 50, 91. A new and very singular genus producing enormous tubers, 271 Players, 401 Pneumonia, the author attacked by, 208 Policy of Siam, 175. Reflections of the author upon, as regards British interests, 176 Population, 387 Portuguese interpreter, 103 Porpoise albino, 262, 275 Prachadi, 210, 221 Pra Klang, 164 Preparis Island, 2 Presents to the court of Siam, 165. Misrepresentation of the term suspected, 165. Of the Governor-general re- fused by the court of Cochin China, 369. The king of Cochin China's presents to Governor-general refused, 393, 402 Pteromys petaurista, or flying squirrel, 54 Pteropus edulis, 9 Pyramid, a sepulchral shrine, 221 Pya-pee-pat of Bankok, corresponds with the governor- general, 206 Pulo Condore, 287 Pulo Binding, 35 Pulo Panjang, 282 Pulo Ubi, 82 Qualla Muda, 30 Queda shore, 30. Interior unexplored, 32 Rains vehement profluency of, 388 Ramayana, 159 INDEX. 425 Ranran, a musical instrument, 191 Ray, singular species of, 98 Religion of the Siamese, 251. None better than a false one, 381 Reptilia, 261- Revenue of Siam, 247 Rhizophora, 59, 304 Richardson, Capt. 78. Disturbance with the Chinese, for- bids the demands of the Chinese, and demands an apo- logy, 79 Roberts, Mr., Envoy to Cochin China, 359 Saigon, 312. River and town, 304, 315. Interview with the governor of, 318 Salam, mode of making, in India, 134 Sararayot mountains, 281 Sampan, 73 Scoevola lobelia, 1 1 Scene of wonder and regret, 143 Scitamineae, 23, 24 Sciurus, 20 Sea, luminous appearance of, by night, 33 Sea fowl, paucity of, 77 Sechang, or Dutch Islands, 267. Inhabited by au act of compulsion, 268. Commodious bay, adapted for the for- mation of a depot, 280 Senia, the image, 235 Sentry sticks used by Cochin Chinese, 345 Servility of the Siamese etiquette, 126 Seyer Islands, 5. Remarkable silence and absence of birds, insects, &c. 6 Siam, policy of, 164. Modern history of, 244. State of defence, 247. Bay, west coast, 280 Siamese houses, 108, 113, 1 17. Description of, 108. Court, 2 F 426 INDEX. inhospitality of, 124 Conduct of, to the mission, 125. Inferior to the inhabitants of Ceylon, 157. National family of, 224. A humane people, 243. General charac- ter of, 265. Those of rank arrogant and coarse in their manners, 265 Silks, the chief material of clothing in Cochin China, 311,7 Simia, 412 Singapore, 45. Commanding situation of, as an emporium, 46. Perpetual tranquillity of the air and ocean, 46. No monsoon, or rainy season, but frequent showers, 47. Tides near, 47. Capacity of the soil not fully ascertained, 57. Situation, 75. Intermittent fever unknown, 60 Slaves at Malacca, 41 Soldiers, Siamese, of the body guard, and their equipments, 140 Squirrel, white species of, 274 Sterna, 2 Storm, Mr., 170 Sugar, 132, 167. Amount in tons, 168 Suri Wong Montree, the Praklang, or Barcalan, 132, 200. Anecdote of, 237 Surya vangsa, or race of the^sun, 129 Syngenesiae, 11 Swallow, a species of, 282 Tanjung api, 81 Taste of the Siamese grotesque, 157 Taxes of Siam, 247 Teak, black, considered ornamental, 1 08 Temperature of the sea, 4. Effects of, on vegetation, 49. On animal life, 50 Thermometer, 22, 77, 82 Tical, 187 Tides, 99 INDEX. 427 Tiger, 31. Common in Siam, 263. Their bones and skins an article of commerce, 263. Black, 263. .Combat with elephants, 321 i .-^icRmiirf A J^SS ,lo yhcai?! Trade, British with Siam, regulations of, 170 Treaty drawn up, 204 Trepang, 94 Tuan kayn, 401 Tuberous plant, discovery of probably the largest species, 272 Tukkay, a musical instrument, 190 Two Brother's Islands, 287 Vaccination, 197 Vegetable Phenomenon, 43 Vespertilio, 20 Vine, 285 Votive offerings, 85 Vulture, 21 Ultra Gangetic nations, their policy, and arrogance, 172. Im- becility, 173. Hints how to negotiate with, 203. Ten- dency to obesity remarkable among, 228 Urtica, 29 Waat thay champonn, 219 Water affected by the soil, 31, 35 Woolly-headed race in the peninsula of Malacca, 226 Worship of imps and goblins common in Siam, 239. Of ancestors practised by the Cochin Chinese, 384 Yellow fever, actual causes doubtful if known, 60 Yuthia captured by the Barmans, 244. British not allowed to visit, 209 Zoological subjects observed, 11, 20, 21, 261, 274, 289,412 LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWX.< Northunibsrland Court. 'Z k A WJ,i LOAN PERIOD 1 kEEP REFERENIJE ROOM US E ONLV LIBRARY USE This book is due before closing time on the last date stamped below DUE AS STAMPED BELOW ' UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY FORM NO. DD6A, 20m, 1 1 /78 BERKELEY CA 94720 ®s ,V,,,,^, BERKELEY LIBRARIES Ml wammm