/ , -» • • • - ^ ' • • • • - . ^ ^» • • • , 1 * *• • • Snorat^iuL bu S. B.^aUt^^. ]HIE(&- rOUBi^TiN SPAIN THE TOURIST IN SPAIN, By THOMAS ROSCOE. BISCAY AND THE CASTILES. ILLUSTRATED FROM DRAWINGS DAVID ROBERTS. Ye who would more of Spain and Spaniards know, Go read whate'er is writ of bloodiest strife : Whate'er keen vengeance urged on foreign foe Can act, is acting there against man's life : From flashing scimitar to secret knife. War mouldeth there each weapon to his need : So may he guard the sister and the wife. So may he make each curst oppressor bleed, So may such foes deserve the most remorseless deed. Childe Harold. LONDON: ROBERT JENNINGS AND CO., 62, CHEAPSIDE. 1837. LONDON : PRINTED BY MAURICE, CLARK, AND CO. FENCHURCH STREET. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. FROM BAYONNE TO VITORIA. PAGE Bayonne — a Carlist Volunteer — Politics of the Middle Ages — a Russian Liberal — Spanish Diligences — Theatre — Scott's " White Lady" — Search after the Picturesque — Church of the Holy Ghost — Cathedral — Parting with the Carlist — the Muleteer — St. Jean de Luz — View of Fonta- rabia — Departure from Bayonne — Ancient Fountain — Sce- nery — Costume — the Frontier — the Lazaretto — Scenery . on the Bidassoa — Detenus — Sketches of Character — Depar- ture — Irun — Hernani — Beautiful Valley of the Oria — Picturesque Scene — Tolosa — Overtake a number of Carlist Prisoners — an Old Friend — Escape of the Prisoners — Arrival at Vitoria 1 CHAPTER n. VITORIA. The Parador Viejo — Inmates of the Kitchen — a Student of Salamanca — the Chimney Corner — the Great Square — Market Day — King Joseph — Battle of Vitoria — Valour of the Spaniards — Antiquarian Disquisition on Gaels, Bis- cayans, &c. — Spanish Contentment not founded in Humility — English and Foreign Politeness — the Public Promenade — View from the Florida — Exploit of Zumalacarregui 31 756S43 IV CONTENTS. CHAPTER III. PROM VITORIA TO BURGOS. PAGE Valley of the Zadorra — Orchards of Alava — Adventure among the Basques — Christine Cavalry — Town of Puebla — Miranda del Ebro — General absence of Trees — Scarcity of the Picturesque — Vermin — Duke of Wellington — Rocks of Pancorvo — Grandeur of the Scene — Traverse the Pass — Beautiful Islet — English study of Topography-^Rich and Picturesque Valley — Pride of the Castilians — Briviesca — Rudeness of Innkeepers — Feathering of Women — Anec- dotes — Curate Merino — Lakes of Briviesca — Mountain Pass — Exploit of the Carlists — Arrival at Burgos 45 CHAPTER IV. BURGOS. Ancient Glory of Spain — Government — Birth-place of the Cid — Rivalry of Burgos and Toledo — the Cathedral — Young Spanish Artist — Beautiful Fa9ade — Poetry of Architecture — View in the Interior — Style and Effect of the Sculpture — Pictures and Relics — Chest and Legend of the Cid — Comparison of the Cathedral with York Minster — View from the great central Tower — Scarcity of Timber — Convent ofMiraflores — Carmelite Convent — San Pedro — Tomb of the Cid — Beauty of Spanish Women — Costume 64 CHAPTER V. FROM BURGOS TO VALLADOLID AND SEGOVIA. Quit Burgos — Valley of the Arlanzon — Storks* Nests — Tor- quemada — Naked Plain — the Pisuerga — Poverty of the Inhabitants — Worship of Despotism — Vineyards of Duefias — Wines of Cabezon — Gil Bias — Valladolid — Cookery — Romantic Reminiscences — the Giant — Promenades and Churches — Drilling Conscripts — Desertion — Departure — Simancas — Hornillos — Valley of the Eresma — Olmedo— Cow's Tail — Approach to Segovia — Arrival 87 CONTENTS. V CHAPTER VI. SEGOVIA. PAGE Antiquities of Segovia — Hercules — Form of the City — the Eresma and the Clamores — the Roman Aqueduct — Scenery ahont Segovia — Urban Groupes — Romans and Spaniards — A Digression on Morals — Anecdote — Defence of auri- cular Confession — the Alcazar — the Prisoner in Gil Bias — Effigies of Kings — Musulman Prisoners — the Mint — Merino Sheep — Effect of Climate on Wool — Migratory Flocks — Shawl Goats — Wandering Shepherds — the Mesta — Origin and Regulations — Pastoral Life — Real and Poetical — Bucolics of Spain 103 CHAPTER VII. ST. ILDEFONSO AND THE ESCURIAL. Apology for Digressions — Diego's Mules — Monks of Burgos — Barren Plains — Change in the Landscape — Approach the Mountains — Palace of St. Ildefonso — Tomb of Philip — Variable Climate — the Escurial — the Pantheon — the Gar- dens — Works of Art — Funeral Procession — Treasures of Learning — Portraits — the Tabernacle — Road to Madrid — Silent Palinodia 137 CHAPTER VIII. ROUTE AND ENTRANCE TO MADRID. A pleasant Prospect — Diego's good Humour — View of Madrid — Character of the Scene — National Groupes — Philosophy of Travel — Political Strictures — Gravities and Gaieties — Our solemn Procession — Gate of Fuencarral — Street of San Bernardo — Custom-house Officers — Varieties — National Characteristics — Ranks — Causes of suffering and degradation of the People — Exterior Vi«w of the Royal Palace — Unexpected Meeting — German Dialogue — an Adventure — the German's Tale — Visit to the Prado— the Royal Palace — Botanic Garden — Museum, &c 184 VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER TX. MADRID. PAGE Impressions of Travel — Madrid — Strictures on Sight-seeing- — Bores ^ Anecdote — German Bonhommie — Walks — Sketches — Dialogues — ^the Bull-ring — the Grand Opera — the Play — Don Quixote — Music — Moorish Airs — Histo- rians — Instrumental Provincial Music — the Carnival — Grand Procession — Church of San Isidro — High Mass — Catholic Influences — Balls — Masquerades — Sports on the River, &c 224 CHAPTER X. TOLEDO. Happy Release — Unhappy Anticipations — German Disqui- sitions on Art — Bleak Prospect — Adjournment to the Posada — Conventual Memorials — Picture of Toledo — Hudibras — Enchanted Castle — Spanish Traits — Vicissi- tudes — History — Archbishop — Gil Bias — Antiquities — the Castle— Orders of Architecture — Hospital of St. John — Archiepiscopal Palace — Ancient Cathedral — Chapel of Muzaraba — Rivers — Palmyra — Inns — an Asturian and his Daughter 267 LIST OF PLATES, ENGRAVED UNDER THE DIRECTION OF MR. JENNINGS. PAGE. FONTAEABIA, FROM ST. JEAN DE LUZ .... 10 VIEW ON THE BIDASSOA, LOOKING TOWARDS IRUN . . 17 GREAT SQUARE AT VITORIA 34 MIRANDA DEL EBRO 50 PASS OF PANCORVO 53 ENTRANCE TO THE CITY OF BURGOS .... 62 RUINS OF THE CONVENT OF THE CARMELITES, BURGOS . 77 WEST FRONT OF THE CATHEDRAL, BURGOS ... 81 STAIRCASE IN THE NORTH TRANSEPT, BURGOS . . 82 TOWER OF THE CHAPTER HOUSE, BURGOS ... 84 CITY OF SEGOVIA 102 GREAT ROMAN AQUEDUCT, SEGOVIA 106 THE ALCAZAR, SEGOVIA Ill THE ESCURIAL 136 ENTRANCE TO MADRID BY THE GATE OF FUENCARRAL . 180 STREET OF SAN BERNARDO, MADRID .... 189 STREET OF ALCALA 208 THE ROYAL PALACE 214 THE HIGH ALTAR, CHURCH OF SAN ISIDRO . . . 259 FOUNTAIN ON THE PRADO, MADRID .... Vignette. VIEW OF TOLEDO . . 267 THE TOURIST IN SPAIN. CHAPTER I. FROM BAYONNE TO VITORIA. Bayonne—a Carlist V^olunteer — Politics of the Middle Ages — a Russian Liberal — Spanish Diligences — Theatre — Scott's ** White Lady" — Search after the Picturesque — Church of the Holy Ghost — Cathedral — Parting with the Carlist — the Mule- teer — St. Jean de Luz — View of Fontarahia — Departure from Bayonue — Ancient Fountain — Scenery — Costume — the Fron- tier — the Lazaretto — Scenery on the Bidassoa — Detenus — Sketches of Character — Departure — Irun — Hemaui — Beautiful Valley of the Oria — Picturesque Scene — Tolosa — Overtake a number of Carlist Prisoners — an Old Friend — Escape of the Prisoners — Arrival at Vitoria. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the weather, the clear mellow days, the delicious air, and the refulgent nights of the autumn of 1835. It was per- fectly inviting to push at once across the Pyrenean boundaries, and reach that land of a yet bright-v south ; but as, on quitting Bayonne, we were to ta leave of a peaceful country to journey through one in which civil war — generally the most uncivil of all wars — was raging in its worst forms, it was not un- 2 ^rODT^RN CHIVALRY. natural that we should wish to enjoy a few quiet days before passing the frontier. Of our companions in the diligence from Bourdeaux there was one — an Englishman by the way — who appeared to be very doubtful whether or not he should be able to pass the Bidassoa. He was an enthusiastic legitimatist, and, imagining he saw in me something more than indifference towards both parties, confessed, in confi- dence, that he was desirous of gathering his first laurels in the service of Don Carlos. Had I been returning out of Spain, I might have considered myself authorized, by my experience, to endeavour, however uselessly, to dissuade him ; but as I could pretend to know no more than himself about the real state of things, it would have been absurd to interfere with his purpose, farther than by showing, that if Don Carlos really possessed, as he had been taught to believe, the affections of nine-tenths of the Spanish nation, it would be somewhat Quixotic in a foreign adventurer, to throw himself with his maiden sword into the already overloaded scale. It was precisely the Quixotism of the thing, however, that principally recommended it to his imagination ; observing which, I ceased to disturb him with argu- ments, particularly as he appeared pensive, though resolved, and had probably been driven into this step by circumstances into which no stranger had any right to inquire. He had come thus far under protection of a pass- port, and, for form's sake, went along with me to have it examined by the Spanish consul. But we were BAYONNE. O here to take leave of each other, though bound towards the same point ; as, while I pursued my way along the king's high road, the warm partisan of the Don, and whatever, in short, emanates from the institutions of the Middle Ages, would be compelled to turn aside and associate with contrabcmdistas ^ the enemies in ordinary times of all authority, whether regal or democratic. Strange to say, however, we had contracted a sort of intimacy and liking for each other, without any reference to political views or opinions, and, more than all, as regarded age, — the down of manhood having scarcely budded on his chin. His heart nature had furnished with noble feelings ; but he might have picked up his ideas from novels, where it is common to find power clothed by imagi- native rhapsodists with a sort of stage glitter, cap- tivating to the young and ignorant. We thought differently, therefore, but felt alike. The interests of mankind we both desired to see consulted ; only he imagined them inseparably bound up with supreme authority both in matters of state and religion, while I took a more calm and philosophical view of the subject. On the morning after our arrival, we strolled round the environs of Eayonne with Mr. Barton, an English merchant resident at Bilboa, now returning homeward, and a Russian, whose name I would write if I could . My Carlist friend expected to find in the Muscovite — who spoke very bad French, and worse Spanish — a congenial spirit, and in this persuasion almost betrayed himself; but was confounded to discover that, not having the prospect of Siberia before his b2 4 THE WHITE LADY IN BAYONNE. eyes, he spoke like a partisan of the movement party, an admirer of municipal institutions, which, he was persuaded, must be the best form of government for merchants, as well as for others. But detesting all politics which, particularly here on the dusty prome- nade, are excessively heating and annoying, we went into a cabaret, where we got some very excellent sweet wine, and better cakes than I had ever before met with in France. From Mr. Barton, who had been often at Madrid, I learned, that during the first part of our journey we must proceed with mules, or in a mule-drawn vehicle, hired expressly for ourselves; but that, at Burgos, we should find a diligence for Valladolid every Sunday and Wednesday, which performed the journey, a dis- tance of ninety miles, in one day. He would, however, notwithstanding the state of the country, rather recom- mend travelling by a conveyance of our own, by which means only we could hope to form any tolerably correct opinion either of the country or the people. This was also the opinion of a friend in England, who had himself made the tour of Spain ; and, as will be seen in the sequel, we acted upon their joint advice. In the evening, — my travelling companion being otherwise engaged, — I accompanied the youthful Carlist to the theatre, where we derived considerable amusement from the opera of ''La Dame Blanche," taken from Scott, though the imitation of Scottish costume, like the rest, was sufficiently extravagant. At the close of the evening, when the play for the following night had been announced, there was a THE PICTURESQUE A]SD THE ANTIQUE. O general call for the Marseilloise hymn, which, after some little delay, caused partly by want of singers, was complied with by the managers. In fact, the audience were vehement and imperative in their de- mand, and an hneute^ on a small scale, might have been the consequence of a refusal. It was executed by the whole strength of the company, one of whom appeared with a tri- coloured flag on the stage ; and the whole theatre, except the Carlist and myself, — for I hate all sorts of military music — joined enthusi- astically in the chorus. Most travellers, by the time they reach Bayonne, are tired of France, and impatient to be in Spain ; for which reason this town is too commonly neglected. It would probably also have been the case with us, had circumstances permitted of our pushing on at once ; but, being involuntarily detained, we employed the leisure thus created in seeking out the picturesque, which generally lurks, like unassuming characters, in quiet and out-of-the-way places. Nor were we by any means unsuccessful in our pilgrimage, though dire was the number of dirty lanes and alleys, both within and without the walls, which we threaded in search of it. In spite of the spirit of improvement, numbers of antique houses, not at all dilapidated, are still found here, and each of these would form an interesting study for the pencil. In the suburbs we found an old church, dedicated to the Holy Ghost, which, poor as need be in the interior, presents at the eastern exterior several very striking features. Close adjoining is the gable end O BEAUTIFUL CHAPEL. of another church, with a fine Saxon doorway, now stopped up and converted into a small shop, where a pretty grisette deals forth tapes and laces to the belles — if there be any — of Bayonne. Not far behind we were shown a much larger building, formerly a con- vent, but now occupied as a private dwelling, and kept in very good repair. It appears, moreover, to have suffered little from the Revolution, — whose shoulders are thought broad enough to bear the sins of ages, — or, indeed, from any other cause ; so that we advise those who love to be pathetic over ruins to pass it by entirely, as there is absolutely nothing to lament over. The dormitories now afford shelter to a number of industrious and, we hope, honest men, which, for aught we know, might be predicated as well of their predecessors ; the cloisters remain as formerly, and the square in the centre is at present a garden. But what more particularly commanded our admi- ration, was the chapel, which is still in a state of high preservation and extremely beautiful. It was origi- nally lighted up, on one side, by six painted windows of exquisite workmanship ; but the mullions have been mostly destroyed, and the windows themselves are blocked up. The ceiling is of wood, richly painted, with groins springing from corbels between the windows. At the western end, over the principal entrance, is a gallery still entire ; and here also is a door communicating with the cloisters. The cathedral is situated in the old town, — though it be somewhat hard to say which part of the town is SPLENDOURS OF THE CHURCH. 7 the more ancient, — and is fallen very much to decay. Like many other sacred edifices, it suifered consider- ably during the paroxysm accompanying the dissolu- tion of despotism. The western entrance, for example, together with the porch looking towards the north, have been totally defaced ; which is the case, also, with the statues, canopies, tabernacle- work, &c., though the place they once occupied can still be traced. Judging, however, from what remains, — particularly a doorway in the south cloister, — all these decorations must have been extremely gorgeous. The church itself is oblong without transepts, and, towards the south, has a cloister which presents a far more antique appearance than the rest of the building. Marks every where appear of hostile hands. The arched screen surrounding the cloisters, and sepa- rating them from the square plot of ground in the centre, has been greatly defaced, and the mullions, in most cases, have been torn away. Part of the building seems to be desecrated, and used as work- shops ; but the large crucifix, with the image of Christ nailed to it, still retains its original position in the midst of secular objects. This church must once have been exceedingly rich in stained glass. The inhabitants attribute the erection of it to the English, as they generally do that of the finest churches in the north of France ; but, however this may be, the windows are highly beautiful, particularly those running round the upper part ; the lower ones, no doubt the finest, have been destroyed. The interior is singularly light and elegant, more especially the 8 UNPLEASANT ALTERNATIVES. open gallery which extends round the upper part. By far the greater portion of the exterior, at least near the ground, is masked by paltry shops, which look like so many wasps' nests stuck against it ; and though painters, ignorant of what is truly beau- tiful, affect to admire this grotesque assemblage of incoherent parts, it must always appear unsightly to the philosophical observer. Our stay at Bayonne was somewhat prolonged, and, although the accommodations and the champagne of the Lion d'Or were not amiss, I, at least, was heartily glad when the day of starting arrived. My Carlist friend, who had found a smuggler ready, for a con- sideration, to smuggle him over the frontier, left three days before us, late in the evening, in the midst of heavy rain ; and when we parted, not without some misgivings of the heart on both sides, it seemed to be with a mutual conviction that we should never meet again. He no doubt expected I should get shot, some fine morning, by the legitimatists ; and, it must be confessed, I was not altogether without suspicion that the Christinos would terminate his career with a screw and collar. With these comfortable mutual reflections we took our leave of each other, but, as I shall presently relate, were again within a very few days brought together under extremely different cir- cumstances. The muleteer, who had undertaken to conduct us as far as Vitoria, and was afterwards tempted to pro- long his engagement through both the Castiles, was a fellow whose exterior bore no great promise of agree- ST. JEAN DE LUZ. I) ableness or fidelity. He was stout, square, thickset in make, and his costume partook of that of the smuggler of the Pyrenees, and of the common Basque mule-driver : a coarse short jacket, black velveteen trousers, kept in their place by a broad red sash, sandals, a thick warm night-cap, stuffed, along with his head, into an ample flapped hat, and a capacious brown cloak, which seemed to have seen its best days. Diego — the only name we ever knew him by — had received from nature, or acquired by associating with fashionable muleteers, a downright roguish look ; and the long spur on his heel, though designed for the mule's flanks, seemed rather intended to catch at shawls or fine linen, in riding through narrow lanes, and transfer them to a new owner. But he could not help his face ; and if fortune meant him to be a f ogue, it was the more to his credit that he knew how to overcome his evil genius. One very fine day, during our sojourn at Bayonne, we strolled along the high road to St. Jean de Luz, the last French town of any consequence in approach- ing Spain. Luz, in the Basque language, signifies ''mud;" and, from the ample supply of dust now every where to be met with, I make no doubt that, when it rains, the Saint's boots, if he ever walks abroad, bear an undoubted testimony to the propriety of the name. Being pedestrians acharnes, as our guide's compliments assured us, we greatly enjoyed the walk, as well as the cognac and cigars with which, at his suggestion, we fortified ourselves by the way. The sun, however, was somewhat powerful, 10 ANTIQUITY OF THE MOUNTAINEERS. and we could read in each other's mahogany faces that we should very shortly want nothing but a pair of thick lips, and a respectable fell of woolly hair, to pass for people from the Gold Coast. Our walk, three long leagues, performed before breakfast, called the gastric juices into such active operation, that, on entering the suburbs, we felt a disposition to devour the steeple of San Juan, just then heaving in sight. We had serious apprehensions of not finding sufficient provisions in the town to pacify our voracious appetites ; but when four new- laid eggs, a quantity of bacon, — there was no ham to be found, — several pains a cafe^ and I blush to enu- merate how much more, had convinced us of the contrary, we sallied forth in an excellent humour to enjoy the picturesque. Travellers have always remarked that at St. Jean de Luz one feels already out of France without being exactly in Spain. The Basquinos, indeed, — supposed descendants of the ancient Cantabrians, — are neither Gauls nor Iberians; and their language, unintelligible to both, has in it all the flavour of antiquity, without being cultivated or possessing a literature. In the character and appearance of the people there is some- thing very peculiar. The men are clean-limbed and robust, the women light and graceful ; and their cos- tume is admirably adapted to exhibit the beauties of their form. The town is situated in a most admirable position. At some distance below, the Ninette, having first swelled into a double bay capable of admitting vessels -p PONTARAKIA. 11 of considerable size, falls into the sea. Lines of pretty picturesque buildings run along the shore, here protected by hills of no great height, which gently rearing their green slopes and woody summits, afford a fine contrast with the blue expanse of the ocean. Looking Spain- ward, the eye travels over a country richly cultivated, and rests on the promontory of Fontarabia, a name embalmed in everlasting fragrance in the memories of Englishmen, (we leave Ariosto to his Italians), from being found in that poem which forms the highest culminating point of modern litera- ture. Who, in fact, does not, at the bare mention of this little town, find a glorious pageant involuntarily sweep over his imagination ? Who does not recal that sublime recapitulation of the armies, that amused his boyhood with their exploits, from those ** That fought at Thebes and Ilium," down to •* What resounds In fable or romance of Uther's son, Begirt with British and Armoric knights j And all who since, baptized or infidel. Jousted in Aspramont, or Montalban, Damasco, or Marocco, or Trebizond, Or whom Biserta sent from Afric shore. When Charlemagne with all his peerage fell By Fontarbia ? " This town, whose Spanish name is Fuente Rabia, from the Latin Fons Bapidus^ was formerly called Ocaso. It is surrounded by strong fortifications, and considered one of the keys of Spain, which has known better how to preserve it than that other key at the 12 MILITARY PREFERMENT. pillars of Hercules. It occuj^ies the point of a small tongue of land projecting into the sea, on the left bank of the Bidassoa, and enjoys the rank of a city, but notwithstanding its strength and importance, is somewhat diminutive. Nothing, however, can be finer than its situation, rising in terraces upon the amphitheatrical slope of a hill facing the sea, and backed by the lofty and picturesque sierras of Jas- quevel, clothed with forest, and not unfrequently a resting-place for heavy and gloomy clouds. Now, however, the whole landscape absolutely sparkled in the morning sun, — ^the sea calm and blue, — the moun- tains also clothed with cerulean tints, — the valley of the Bidassoa escaping inward, and partly concealing its loveliness from the eye ; and best of all we approached not too closely to examine the elements of the picture, and risk the dissipating of the whole charm of the view. Having to dine at five at the table d'hote^ our eyes only for the present passed the border ; and we returned to Bayonne to find our- selves, and all other non-militaires, thrust into a small insignificant room, — the large salle a manger had been appropriated to the officers of the garrison, — who, having been presented with a set of colours, had that day determined to dine in state. To observe how they managed these things at Bayonne, we took a peep at them. The table was handsomely laid out. The property dishes^ as they would be termed on the stage, were decorated with the tri-coloured flag ; and the band, stationed in a small ante-room, played several lively and agreeable FOOD FOK TRAVELLERS. 13 airs. Further than this, our hunger would not permit us to explore the regulations of the Mounseers, for our own soup was soon servie, and we hastened to do honour to it. We quitted Bayonne at break of day, and having got clear of its fortifications, which always appears like escaping from a prison, found ourselves, as the light grew stronger, advancing rapidly into the open country, with the Pyrenees, rising like a ridge of dark clouds, lying between us and Spain. Not far from the gates is a fountain, or rather well, of very picturesque appearance, and situated, notwithstanding its proximity to the road, in a very romantic and, apparently, little frequented spot. It had previously attracted our attention, and from the old woman who is its guardian, we learned the legend which tradition has attached to it. Formerly, there lived a bishop, — a very pious and charitable man, who being too good for the times in which he flourished, was, for I know not what cause, murdered near this spot. Whether the perpetrators of the deed were apprehended by the old gens d'armes, and punished as they deserved, the story recordeth not, as it had no connexion with the miracle ; but as they were removing the corpse to a place a little higher up, it bled anew, and some of the holy fluid falling on the earth, a beautiful spring of water gushed forth, and has continued flowing ever since. The doorway, by which it was formerly entered, is now blocked up, and the water is obtained by the aid of a pump. We could not, therefore, examine the interior ; but, upon the whole, — the cross upon the 14 EQUESTRIAN FASHIONS. summit excepted, — it mtiy be said to resemble St. Margaret's well in the neighbourhood of Edinburgh, though of larger dimensions. In a tablet over the doorway is an illegible Latin inscription ; and near the bottom lies a statue so extremely mutilated, that it would be difficult to say whether it was meant to represent our friend the bishop, or the Virgin. The country round, as far every way as the eye could reach, is barren and covered with heath, inter- spersed with small forests of pine and cork trees. On the right lies the sea, now beginning to look blue and interesting, as the light fell in warmer profusion on the scene. It being market-day, great numbers of peasants from the country were making the best of their way towards the town, some mounted on asses, which appeared to have made their wills; others on spirited little nags, that looked down, like patricians, on the ass-riders and foot- walkers. The women, it may, en passant, be remarked, make in this part of the world the most of their legs, riding astride like their sturdier helpmates, and showing very gay garters, sometimes above sometimes below the knee. The costume of the drinking and swearing sex — though the distinction is hardly kept up — resembles nothing seen elsewhere in France, consisting of a bonnet, precisely that of the Lowland Scotch, a great coat, fashioned like a herald's tabard, with one piece hanging before, another behind, and a third extending over and pro- tecting the arms. It is easily put on or off. Their hair is worn long, and spreading over the shoulders. All go buttoned up in jackets and trousers, in colour FAMILY DRESSES. 15 principally brown or blue; and beld up, like those of Diego, by a red sash twisted like that of a Turk round the waist. In the warm part of the day the jacket enjoys quite a sinecure, being taken off and thrown jauntily over one shoulder, the sleeves meeting under the opposite arm, and being tied in a knot on the breast. A pair of sabots, or wooden shoes, completes their visible equipment ; we never presumed to inquire about their shirts, and stockings are a luxury which seem to be universally voted useless. Nearly all the women wear, as at Bourdeaux, handkerchiefs, red, blue, or yellow, neatly twisted about the head. Stays are rarely worn, even by the wealthier classes. Their principal garment is a short gown, like what is com- mon in many parts of Scotland, — with a slit on either side through which appears their delicately white linen . Their petticoat is generally of a flaming red colour, though it is sometimes blue ; and a red handkerchief over the bosom, a smart pair of wooden shoes, and a bouquet of sweet-smelling flowers, complete the para- phernalia of a Bayonne belle. As we proceeded, the aspect of the country improved rapidly, assuming at every step a more variegated appearance ; the fields, now somewhat browned by the sun, divided — as in England — by quickset hedges, and undulating with a perceptibly upward slope to the craggy ridges of the Pyrenees. In winter, or bad wea- ther, this road would doubtless be exceedingly bleak and uninviting ; but the sun, not long risen, was now shining brilliantly upon every thing, and clothing the whole landscape with beauty. The most inveterate 16 PRIMITIVE TRAITS. grumbler would therefore have found little to complain of. We discovered no ground of uneasiness, nothing to abuse, nothing to apprehend, at least on the hither side of the border ; and about what we were to en- counter beyond it, we very sagely judged it would be as well to form no useless conjectures. The country, like an April day, put on various appearances in the course of our seven hours' ride. Sometimes we pronounced it beautiful, and spoke highly of the industry which had been employed in calling forth its resources ; but, in a short time, it was necessary to call in the aid of different language. Barrenness, at length, as we drew nearer and nearer to the Pyrenees, became the predominant characteristic. Trees of a stunted growth, — rdbougris^ as the peasants express it, — seemed to have a hard task of it to coax any nourishment out of the ungrateful soil ; and, as man cannot live — at least none but a poet or an artist — out of the picturesque, the appearance of human dwellings was rare. From time to time we met or overtook a knot of peasants, rarely less than three, transporting charcoal or brushwood towards some distant hamlet in carts drawn by cows, and of very primitive form and construction. The wheels are of solid plank, and the whole is said to be made en- tirely without iron. They are invariably drawn by cows or oxen, which are attached, not by the neck, as with us, but by the horns. As we approached the frontier, the face of the country grew more than ever dreary, until we entered the pleasing valley in which the town of Anoa, the f COMPORTS OF QUAKANTINE, 17 last in the dominions of Louis Philippe, is situated. It was already past noon, — and the passage opens at twelve, — yet we were detained, I know not wherefore, till six o'clock, when we entered Spain and pushed forward to our halting-place, where we were destined to become acquainted with Biscayan comforts. On arriving at this capacious hut, which, in the time of the cholera, had been the lazaretto, Diego obtained intelligence which determined him to make a halt of at least two or three days. The Carlists and Christinos were by the ears in the valleys hard by; and the former, it was said, being hard driven, were daily seizing upon every mule of decent appear- ance that came within their reach, in order to make ragouts of him, — their other provisions, just then, running very low. One comfort — for such it really was — we at least enjoyed in our barn : we were not the only detenus, there being nearly forty other travellers, all of whom pretended, as we did, that their muleteers alone were to blame, inasmuch as they themselves feared neither liberal nor legitimatist. Without instituting a rigid inquiry into the strength of their apprehensions, which were, perhaps, not greater than our own, we sought, after demolishing a large tureen of soup, to extract what amusement we could from our position. The whole company, to speak the truth of them, appeared remarkably gay for people within three musket-shots, perhaps, of hostile troops ; for the Carlists were said to be close upon the frontier. There was an old Frenchman, whose only travelling companion was a fiddle, which morning, 18 CLASSICAL ALLUSIONS. noon, and night — (is we found to our cost — was patriotically engaged in scraping the air of the Mar- seilloise. Besides this republican instrument, the company mustered two guitars ; and, as every body could play, and, in his own estimation, sing too, heaven knows at what hour they would have broken up their serenading orgies, or given respite to their cigars, had not a hurricane came on, which made still louder music and threatened to transfer us, fiddles and all, to the Bay of Biscay. Our farm-house, hostelry, or whatever else it might be called, was situated on the banks of the Bidassoa, within sight of the bridge, and the view from the window was infinitely picturesque. In the left fore- ground was a house of the same age, apparently, as the mountain, out of which it seemed to have sprung like a wart upon Olympus. Its colour was the same — that nondescript sort of gray which one means when it is said " the sky is gray," or '' the morning is gray." Moss and creeping plants, attracted by the moisture of the river, audaciously projected their roots, over the roof, and along the " wooden walls," until they at length met the water, where, at the bottom of some rude steps, there was a damsel, who sported as handsome a pair of legs as Dorothea in Don Quixote, when, weary and exhausted, she was found cooling her feet in a stream. Boats of exceedingly rude construction, and seemingly as heavy as Chinese junks, were comfortably moored among green and rotten old posts, while two or three of the female inmj^tes appeared nearly ready for bathing. The OLD TIMES AND NEW. 19 bridge itself, and the buildings beyond, look very well as component parts of a landscape ; but the former, at least, when approached near, seems in its erection to have preceded Noah's ark, and been left as a specimen of the taste, and invention, and architec- tural resources of the contemporaries of Tubal Cain. But the river and the mountains are exquisitely modern ; such, at all events, was the opinion of the French fiddler, who entertained the most profound contempt for every thing which dated beyond the year 1789. *' Bah!" said he to a Spaniard, who was hinting his admiration of his country's former glory, '■' what is the good of looking back at old times ? What were you then, at best, but the handles with which asking moved, or the scoops with which he filled his revenue coffers ; or else the manure for his fields, which he drenched with your blood ? — Allons, Monsieur ! let us not look back, but forward, to those glorious times when the Peninsula shall be a republic, and that old bridge be trodden by democratic feet!" The Spaniard shook his head, and gave a grim smile. He was a Carlist. But neither the admirers of the old, nor the admirers of the new order of things, had a spark of admiration to spare for scenery. Politics and their cigars, to our infinite annoyance, engrossed them en- tirely. The landscape before us was, nevertheless, exceedingly fine, consisting of a sweep of undulating country rising gradually, and terminating in the dis- tance in a chain of mountains Alpine in character, which encircled the vale and bounded the horizon. Bare and arid, above a certain elevation, but of diver- c2 20 '*LOW LIFE ABOVE STAIRS." sified outline, and rising in precipitous cliffs like the secondary chains of the Lower Valois, they are in- vested with more grandeur than generally belongs to unforested ridges ; and, being commanded by no higher mountains, rise like a chain of clouds above the common level of the country. But if we had elevation and grandeur out of doors, to make up for it there was the very reverse within. Never did farce or comedy bring together a more complete set of uncouth originals. To begin with the top of the list, there was an old actor and manager, named Petto, who amused himself with railing at his betters, in setting at nought matrimony, and travelling about* the world with a chere amie. Like all other managers, he imagined himself born to play the tyrant, and his philosophy, if it ever was more extensive, had now contracted to the comprehension of one single proposition : viz. " self is every thing." He ate like a half-starved wolf from the Pyrenees, voraciously and unintermittingly, till every thing within his reach had been consumed ; and then seemed to eye the com- pany, as if he would next have liked to try the taste of one of them. He was now returning from South America, where he was said to have realized a for- tune of at least eight hundred per annum, invested in the French funds. The next person in importance to Petto was Sefior Torino, with a wife, nephew, and two children, the worst in manners I ever in my whole travels encountered. They spoke a little English, and proved their pro- ficiency by swearing in it incessantly like troopers. THE WAY OF THE WORLD. 21 SenDr Torino had been during nine years engaged in the wool trade at Liverpool, where he had ended by becoming a bankrupt ; but very fortunately possessed some little property in Spain, whither he was now retiring, to vent his oaths, for the remainder of his life, on his own lands. Third upon the list was a lady, now married ; but whose beauty had formerly been public property at Madrid. The husband who had taken unto himself this relict of the capital, was a merchant, engaged, like Torino, in the wool trade ; but his wife preserved so much of the elegant style of thinking acquired during her professional practice, as to consider it necessary, after marriage, to retain as cortejo a Mr, O'Flanni- ghan, who, growing tired of Madrid, absconded with a considerable part of her husband's property. In pursuit of the delinquent, her very sagacious lord had despatched her to Bourdeaux, where she of course arrived just in time to be too late. The lady was now on her way back ; and instead of the Irishman above commemorated, had contrived to enlist in her service two cavaliers, who would have made a figure, with clothes-bags on their shoulders, in the most cele- brated second-hand purlieus of the metropolis. The first of these worthy successors to Mr. OTlannighan, was a conceited little fellow called Belasco, aid-de- camp in the Spanish army, and, in his own estimation, a hero of the first water. His partner, for they were not rivals, appeared to have more right to the honour they were enjoying, having Irish blood in him, and rejoicing in the magnificent appellation of OTlinn. 22 PROVINCIAL FARE. Why Diego had not chosen to take up his quarters at Irun, close at hand, did not at first appear; but intelligence, which afterwards proved to be un- founded, had been diligently circulated, that the Carlists were about to make an attack upon it in the night, and carry off whatsoever they could lay hands on. However, seeing no vestiges of Don Carlos's heroes, our establishment was soon broken up, and the several inmates transferred to the posadas of Irun, ourselves among the number. Here we hastily comforted ourselves with a garlic and saffron stew, and some tolerably good wine, after which we .resumed our journey, putting implicit confidence in Diego and his mules, who led the way at what pace, and in whatsoever direction they pleased. The country now grew extremely beautiful, the level lands being profusely watered, while the uplands and mountains, from their roots to the summit, were clothed with magnificent oaks, beech-trees, and chest- nuts, with some few specimens of the encina, or evergreen oak, which bears an acorn equal in flavour to the chestnut. A short ride brought us to Hernani, a large village recently rendered remarkable by the courage of our countrymen, who, under the command of General de Lacy Evans, taught the Carlists a lesson they will not soon forget ; and thus furnished an exemplification of those high qualities and that superior discipline brought into resistless action by their brilliant and illustrious leader in the Peninsular war. Hernani, which then possessed no particular interest in our eyes, is situated in an agreeable SCENERY. 23 valley, fertilized by a river which, like the Pisuerga farther on, comes frequently under the eye of the traveller, as he advances towards Vitoria. Mountains of vast height impend over the valley, into which they every moment appear ready to precipitate them- selves, to swallow up the town where anchors, in former times, were forged for the Spanish navy, when such a thing existed. Recently nothing was forged there but lies, which lighter than anchors, flew with nimble feet over the Pyrenees, transformed themselves into paragraphs in the French and English papers, travelled northward to the gates of St. Petersburgh, and there, as here, gave rise to other paragraphs which, just as it happened, raised or lowered the Spanish bonds. A road striking off to the right leads to St. Sebas- tian ; but this town having, at that time, no particular attractions for us, we took that to the left, leading through Tolosa towards Vitoria. At first our route lay over the hills, which, branching off at Andaya, enclose and shelter an extremely narrow valley, kept in perpetual verdure and fertility by the romantic little river Oria, which flows in a winding and willow- fringed channel down its centre. Every object that meets the eye bears testimony to the industry and comfort of the people. Villas, or rather, perhaps, farm-houses, interspersed through the valley at fre- quent intervals, peep forth from amid encircling groves of walnut, mulberry, apple, and other trees ; and the sparkling whiteness of the walls, like those of the Welsh cottages, contrasts agreeably with the 24 ROAD TO TOLOSA. verdure, now tinged by autumn, of the surrounding trees. Every where, high and low, where the plough could bite, cultivation had been at work, and the eye was refreshed and delighted by the result. Nature, no doubt, had done still more than man ; but whatever the agents which had produced it, few prospects in Spain can be contemplated with more satisfaction than the valley of the Oria, on the way to Tolosa. Hills of different elevations rise in tiers behind each other, and gradually lead the eye backward, and upward, till it rests on mountain-peaks clothed with forest, and overcanopied by a brilliant sky. Here and there, in windless nooks embosomed in trees, we discovered while moving along, small picturesque hamlets, or larger villages, each with its church spire towering above the woods. Now and then, as we advanced, not too rapidly it must be confessed, we came to beautiful cascades in the river, which preci- pitated its clear waters over green mossy rocks, some- times bare to the sun, at others closely hemmed in and almost hidden by overhanging oaks. As we were approaching Tolosa, forgetful of the fact that our road lay through a country torn by civil war, fortune presented us with a spectacle well calcu- lated to call it to remembrance. This was a party of Christinos conducting towards Vitoria a number of Carlist prisoners, who, it was expected, were there to be shot. They were tied two and two, with their arms bound behind their back ; and it at once struck me that my eye was not unfamiliar with at least one face among them. They did not lift up their heads MODE OF TREATING PRISONERS. 25 as we passed ; fortune had humbled them ; they ap- peared to be counting the steps, the very minutes, that led them to death. I stopped my mule, — for it was only at Vitoria that we determined upon enjoying the luxury of a carriage, — and looking down upon the shirtless, shoeless captives, I immediately recognised my Carlist friend of Bayonne, whose romance ap- peared to be drawing too rapidly towards a conclusion. *' Gracious God! " I exclaimed, *' can that be you?" He turned up his eyes with a start, as my voice struck upon his ear, and seeing who had accosted him, made an effort to put on a smile. I was on my feet in a moment, and before the peseteros could interfere to prevent us; " Can I do any thing, my friend, to get you out of this scrape ? Do you know of any way ? I have some acquaintance with the English general, and will despatch a messenger to him this moment." " It would be useless, my dear sir!" he replied. " The king has recently refused to pardon a number of the rebels who had fallen into his power ; and now that it is their turn, nothing can prevent them from using their advantage. It will be all over with me by this time to-morrow. But push on, and leave us. You see they are going to command you. I would not involve others in my misfortunes; particularly one who " He was unable to finish the sentence; not from any interference of the Christino soldiers, but from the state of his own feelings, the bitterness of which, too visible in his countenance, no words of mine could portray. There were tears in his eyes. He trembled 26 A BAD AFFAIR. with emotion. '^ Go on, my. friend !" said he : " leave me to my fate. God bless you !" I left him accordingly; but, going up to the officer, who, indeed, partly spared me the trouble, I inquired into the circumstances under which the prisoner had been taken. He was a civil and a gentlemanly man ; but could not withal conceal the strong prejudices he entertained against Englishmen in general, but espe- cially against such, — few, indeed, and those mostly foolish young men, — who had taken part with the Pretender. There was a reluctance in his manner to hold communication with one who evinced an interest in a Carlist. He at length, however, informed me that my countryman had scarcely passed the Pyrenees before he fell into their hands ; and having been cap- tured in company with several native rebels, — for it is thus that each party designates the other, — it was not to be expected he should escape the fate which awaited them. I knew, of course, that nothing in this affair would ultimately depend on him, but wished to obtain per- mission to hold further communication with my coun- tryman, which was politely, but firmly refused. It was hinted, moreover, that it would be well if I myself escaped the imputation of being a Carlist, since no one could understand, on any other ground, the in- terest I appeared to take in one of that detested faction. Perceiving that nothing was to be gained by perse- verance, I took my leave, and pushing forward, entered Tolosa considerably before them. Determining not to lose sight of the Carlist until his SPANISH INGENUITY. 27 fate should be decided, we lingered in a posada, over- looking the road to Alegria, until the escort had passed with their prisoners; and then, resuming our journey, followed slowly in the distance behind. Setting aside the poor prisoners, the cavalcade made a fine appear- ance. The peseteros, with their handsome vests of rifle-green, with yellow stripes down the trousers, were mingled with an almost equal number of chapelgorris, or Biscayan volunteers, many of whom, besides their red chakos, wore trousers also of red. Their horses were light and spirited, and seemed to rejoice in the dust they every now and then raised about them. It was the dark dress of the ordinary volunteers which caused the peasantry to bestow on them the name of los negros^ or " the blacks," an appellation afterwards extended to the Christinos generally, and by many foolishly supposed to signify " negroes." A report has gone abroad, but I know not on what founded, that many of these troops, as well as the carabineros, carried at the end of their muskets a long four-edged bayonet, with teeth like a saw near the point, which inflicted incurable wounds. For myself, seeing the fierce spirit which animates both parties, I should feel little surprise, if, like savages, they should have re- course to poisoned weapons, that whomsoever they touched might perish. Our road now lay through a most charming country, where agriculture seemed to be conducted on en- lightened principles. The hamlets and scattered farm houses, visible from the highway, were clean, and exhibited signs of comfort ; and in one or two of the 28 THE NAVARRESE RESCUE. small towns there were manufactories of poniards, swords, and fire-arms. Towards dusk we saw the sol- diers, who had evidently driven their prisoners to the utmost of their strength, enter an inn in a small ham- let on the northern slope of a mountain, over which we were to pass. Arriving not long after them, we also took up our quarters there, in the hopes that chance would afford some opportunity of conversing with the English captive, who, though I felt for all, excited the greatest share of my commiseration. On entering the kitchen, we found round the fire a knot of Navarrese peasants, who seemed to he return- ing homeward from a considerable journey. They were travel-stained and way-worn ; but eyed the soldiers, as it appeared to me, with most unfriendly glances. Their costume was highly curious and characteristic, con- sisting of a hereto or blue round cap, a jacket and breeches of the coarse brown cloth usually worn by the Franciscans, a blue or red sash, and alpargatas^ or hemp sandals, which, both in Navarre and Biscay, are worn instead of shoes. It was not an occasion to look for much attention or civility from the inn-people ; but, paying for what we required, it seemed reasonable to expect some little more than we found. By dint, however, of coaxing and perseverance, we at last succeeded in obtaining something to eat. Still the principal object of my stay remained unaccomplished ; the peseteros appeared to fear lest I might eat or Otherwise spirit off their captive, and watched me so closely, that I could get no opportunity of conversing with him even for a ALARUM ENTER VITORIA. 29 moment; and, after trying uselessly till a late hour, I retired in exceedingly bad temper to bed. Fate had ordained that we were to meet no more. About midnight we were suddenly startled from our sleep by the firing of muskets and pistols, as it at first appeared, in our bed-room ; but, on starting up, rubbing our eyes, and rushing forth into the corridor, we found the whole house in an uproar, several of the peseteros shot, and the prisoners gone. Nothing could exceed the external manifestations of sorrow and rage on the part of the landlord, who cursed Don Carlos, and all dons whatever, in a manner which seemed to satisfy the peseteros, who serve not a don, but a donna ; though, for * myself, I have little doubt that he was deeply concerned in the rescue, and considered Don Carlos the legitimate lord of Spain. In my heart I rejoiced no less than he, though I took much less pains to conceal it ; and felt, what he probably did not, sincere sorrow for the honest chapelgorris, who had lost their lives in the affair. It will readily be imagined that, after such a scene, we felt but little inclination to sleep. Diego and his mules were fresh, and ready for starting ; we had no longer any motive for delay : so, bidding adieu to the Christino chief, if chief he might be called, we re- sumed our journey considerably before day. We had already achieved the ascent and descent of the moun- tain, and arriv.ed at the village of Ansuela, before day completely broke upon us. In a short time we quitted the province of Guipuscoa and entered that of Alava, where the great high road all the way from Vergara to 30 Wellington's battle -fields. Vitoria may very well be compared to a long street. Villages, farm-houses, and other dwellings, are con- stantly seen on either hand — the Zadorra winds before us through the valley — and at length the mountains sink rapidly into the vast rich plain of Vitoria, where we arrived with sharp appetites rather late in the afternoon. Scarcely a foot of ground we had that day traversed, not a town or city of importance, or strong position upon hill or river, but had afforded us an object of interest as associated with British history, the skilful combinations of the greatest of living commanders, and the persevering indomitable valour of his armies. On how many spots did we trace the memory of his exploits, and the impress of the iron foot of war ! The Pyrenees — the passage of the Bidassoa — Irun — Hernani — St. Sebastian, and the surrounding valleys and heights had been carried, position after position, by a masterly series of movements, which thwarted the manoeuvres and best efforts of a brave and expe- rienced foe. Neither old Numantium, nor modern Saragossa need blush to boast of allies whose deeds may be emblazoned with their own ; and their com- bined influence ought to serve as a future war-cry against the invader, should the foot of a foreign foe again threaten Spain's independence. CHAPTER II. VITORIA. Tlie Parador Viejo — Inmates of the Kitchen — a Student of Sala- manca — the Chimney Corner — the Great Square — Market Day — King Joseph — Battle of Vitoria — Valour of the Spaniards — Antiquarian Disquisition on Gaels, Biscayans, &c. — Spanish Contentment not founded in Humility — English and Foreign Politeness — the Public Promenade — View from the Florida — Exploit of Zumalacarregui. On our arrival at Vitoria, the capital city of Alava on the Castilian frontier, it was, as I have said, drawing near dusk, and our predilection for the picturesque was consequently compelled to yield precedence to the more homely gratification afforded by a good dinner and the blazing kitchen fire of the posada, by which this meal is always eaten in this country. The Parador Viejo has been admitted, by most travellers, to be the best inn in Spain, which, however, is not saying much for it. I will be more encomiastic: it is, in many respects, not unworthy to be compared with a good English inn, its apartments being neatly fitted up, and furnished with fire-places ; its beds curtained and clean ; its floors well swept; and, though last, not least, its provisions and style of cookery worthy of high commendation. 32 A PICTURESQUE GROUP. Its spacious kitchen was, as usual, the place of general rendezvous for the travellers who patronised the establishment, and whose numbers, on the present occasion, were so considerable, and their costume, stature, and complexion so various, that, but for the roof and the female attendants, I might almost have fancied myself in the court of an eastern caravanserai. Close to me, on the high-backed wooden seat, fixed for greater comfort in the chimney corner, where I enjoyed the genial warmth of the fire, sat a tall Ara- gonese in his capusay, not unlike the Moorish haik, or Grecian capote. The hood, thrown back on the shoulders, exhibited to view his small sheep-skin cap, from beneath which escaped, in matted flakes, a profu- sion of black greasy hair. His countenance, though disfigured by several cicatrices, beamed cheerfully on all around ; and his tongue moved quicker than the flappers of Don Quixote's windmills. His neighbour, who received this volley of vivacity, was an Andalu- sian merchant, in travelling costume : a sheep-skin jacket with silver clasps, tight breeches, buskins of leather, large silver spurs, and a gancho hat. They were both smoking paper cigars, and had engaged in argument on general politics, occasionally glancing more or less adroitly at the contest going on in the province. Clustering around the fire in front was a motley group, composed of individuals from almost every part of the country — Castilians, Biscayans, Navarrese, Galicians, all puffing forth smoke like furnaces, and bandying, in the midst of the cloud thus created. PORTRAIT OF A STUDENT. 33 arguments somewhat infected by the mistiness of the atmosphere. My attention was by degrees fixed upon a young student from Salamanca. His robe, which had doubtless once been new, now displayed sundry unseemly rents, and was altogether so threadbare and brittle, that the first storm that should overtake him out of doors, would certainly carry the better part of it to the crows. With regard to his cap, it was in somewhat better condition; for, not having been en- dued with the faculty of growing with his head, it had long been reduced to an article of mere show, and was carried under the arm, to prove that, in rainy weather, his locks had once skulked under cover. He had engaged in conversation with a Catalan merchant, to whom he was recounting the brief story of his life. He then descanted on his studies with much earnestness, and some complacency ; and I dis- covered that, if his robe was somewhat antiquated, his ideas were of the newest stamp, full of lively and benevolent tendencies, and far more enlarged than I should have supposed it possible for a man to have picked up in a Salamanca education. With such no- tions, he was not likely to be an enthusiastic Christino, still less a Carlist. He evidently disliked both parties. He considered them as old tide-marks, over which the waves of a much higher flood must very shortly break, to sweep away and conceal for ever all trace of their existence. He met, however, with but little sympathy in his hearers, who, altogether absorbed by the interest of passing events, heard with impa- tience all reference to a state of things, possible 34 THE SUPPER-HALL. perhaps, but remote, equally from their experience and their hopes. As the air of the evening was chill, and the kitchen of great extent, every person present sought to obtain a glimpse of the fire, consisting of a pile of live embers fed by numerous logs, and a liberal supply of brush- wood, cast on from time to time to make a blaze. The culinary operations were carried on, as in France and Italy, upon a number of small furnaces, fixed in a solid platform erected against the wall, and faced with painted and varnished tiles. To render the affair more interesting, the superintendents of the copper stew- pans were young and pretty, dressed too in a costume admirably adapted to show off all the graces of their forms, and constitutionally and from education dis- posed to join in all the frolic, gaiety, and broad humour which usually bubble forth in companies of so motley a character. Being somewhat fatigued with our ride, we retired early to rest, where it was not long before imperious sleep had triumphed over the uncouth noises of every description which resounded through the streets of this miniature Babel. In the morning, after fortifying the inner man with a profusion of such good things as the larder of the Parador Viejo afforded, we sallied forth towards what constitutes the great point of at- traction in Vitoria — the Great Square. Its beauties, as the reader will perceive, have employed the pencil of Mr. Roberts, which, much more compendiously than language, will convey a correct idea of the material and immoveable features of the scene. But this is PLEASURE AND BUSINESS. 35 neither all, nor perhaps the most interesting portion of what here presents itself to the eye of the traveller. Its greatest charm lies in the vivacity, the animation, the almost tropical warmth of countenance ohservahle in the various groupes, called into existence in its wide area, or beneath its shady and comfortable piazzas, by the spirit of trade ; for it is here that the market is held, and here the unoccupied labourers assemble, and stand, each with the implements of his calling, as of old in the market-places of Judea, plying for employ- ment. Around the fountain, which stands in the centre of the square, the watermen, a race, as Juvenal terms them, of strong-backed knaves, are found busy at all hours, bottling up for the use of the citizens large quantities of that element, which an ancient poet pronounced the most excellent of all things. Here, on the one hand, were peasants from the sur- rounding districts with grain and pulse; and on the other, rough-handed Basques with vegetables culti- vated in large market-gardens on the southern banks of the Zadorra, With one old fellow of the latter class, dressed in a woollen bonnet resembling that worn in the Highlands, a striped manta, and sandals instead of shoes, I fell into conversation. Upon his finding we were English, his memory appeared to be suddenly quickened. He recalled the day — and he recalled it with vivid pleasure — on which his countrymen, inspired by the energetic co-operation of the British, defeated the last remaining strength of the usurper Joseph, and sent him baffled and humiliated to smoke his cigarillo beyond the Pyrenees. The old Basque was D 2 36 NATIONAL GLORY. eloquent in his description of the battle. But I observed that his sympathies — which depend much, in all of us, upon our habitual associations — were no less painfully excited by the magnificent crop of corn which the combatants trampled down and spoiled, particularly in the neighbourhood of his own village of Abuchaco, than by the number of his countrymen — for the others were nothing — who that day bit the dust. He exhibited considerable enthusiasm in de- scribing the attack — whether he witnessed it himself, or only spoke from the report of others — made by the Spanish troops under General Morillo on the French corps posted above Puebla. Supported by a party of English under Colonel Cadogan, who fell there, they in the most gallant style mounted the heights, and after much hard fighting, succeeded in dislodging the enemy at the point of the bayonet. He appeared almost willing to forget the timely aid afforded by a detachment sent by Sir Eowland Hill. It was always we — '' nosotros" — who performed whatever there was of heroic in the action of that day ; and, it must be owned, that if the Spaniards could be pre- vailed upon to fight half so well as they talk of fighting, no troops in Europe would be able to stand before them. There was a particular infusion of glee in the tone of triumph in which he related the disasters of Joseph, whom he was careful not to honour with the title of El Rey, which a Spaniard's imagmation still surrounds with a misty halo of veneration. It was fortunate for him, he said, that he had been able, while in Spain, to filch a good horse, for it was to ALL OF ONE COLOUR. 37 that circumstance he owed his life ; since, when Captain Wyndham and his squadron of cavalry fired into the fugitive's carriage, in the hope of picking him off by accident, he had just a moment to fling himself upon his Andalusian, which, like an unpatriotic beast as it was, in a moment carried him out of danger. The amusing nationality of this gasconading old Basque, which seemed to make his very woollen cap perspire, strongly reminded me of those spiritual natives of the Emerald Isle, who woke lively figures of rhetoric out of whisky. And, indeed, there have not been wanting, among later travellers, those who trace the Vascongades, the Navarrese, the Scotch Highlanders, and the Irishman, to one common Keltic stock, which, if this be true, must have been endued with portentous fertility. In one point, it would give me pleasure to discover a resemblance in the Irish, or, indeed, in the Gael, to these hardy mountaineers ; a sober, cleanly, industrious people, who extract from the rude soil, to which they are enthusiastically attached, wherewith to maintain a sturdy independence. ** But my pen wanders — I demand it back ! " To say three words of the architecture of the square, which the battle of Vitoria, and the Irish origin of the Basque, or the Basque origin of the Irish popula- tion, had nearly caused me to overlook. The houses are erected with a sort of freestone, in a very tasteful and handsome style, with a suite of arcades below and airy balconies above, where ladies in the evening 38 RELIANCE ON THE FUTURE. may listen to serenades, and enjoy the cool breeze. Seats with railed backs, placed at intervals against the interior of the columns, enable the lounger to enjoy his cigarillo and daily dram of politics, which, of late, has been substituted for private scandal, more safe and exciting under the old regime. Seiior Olar- vide, from whose designs the square was built, is said to have been himself a native of Vitoria, who devoted his distinguished talents to the embellishment of the place of his birth. This city has always excited the admiration of foreigners, whether they have merely paid it a passing visit, or have enjoyed the experience of a longer resi- dence. Provisions are plentiful and cheap, and the climate, notwithstanding the vicinity of the moun ^ tains, which bound the horizon towards the north, is extremely mild and temperate, excepting perhaps a few days in the depth of winter. We may, perhaps, seek in vain for that Arcadian simplicity and inno- cence of manners celebrated with credulous enthu- siasm by former travellers, — and for this the civil war may charitably be called in to account ; but one feature of the national character, observable here and every where, cannot fail to strike you, as you sit with one leg over the other in the arcade of the Great Square, — I mean that tone of repose, of calm, un- anxious reliance upon the future, which pervades every group around you. Doubtless the climate may lay claim to something of this, but not to all. Other causes must co-operate. And of these, perhaps, the chief is the absence of the commercial and speculating SOCIAL DISQUISITION. 39 spirit, and the reliance of the majority upon the more certain, though more moderate returns of agriculture and of unambitious trade. Here, as in the East, the cobbler is as content to be a cobbler, as the duke to be a duke. His pride consists in being a Spaniard; and for this he knows no other reason upon earth, than that his father before him indulged the same pride, and transmitted it, as a sort of heir-loom, to him. There is, moreover, a sort of equality, which is not that of freedom. On the contrary, it derives its source from despotic rule ; for, where the sovereign is regarded as every man's master, those who share in the feeling of inferiority thus engendered, and from the cradle accustom themselves to look up to him as to a being above the ordinary level of humanity, naturally view all below that level as little or nothing better than themselves. That such is the case, any man may convince himself who will be at the pains to examine the structure of society in countries where the most rigid despotism prevails ; — in the Ottoman empire, or in Persia, for example. He will there find precisely the same equality as in Spain, accom- panied necessarily by the same slovenly ease of man- ners, which, wherever it appears, is based on the most profound ignorance that in the economy of human actions there is such a thing as good-breeding. The uneducated and untutored Englishman is awkward, because his active aspiring mind has obtained some glimpse of a system of manners more beautiful than his own ; and though ignorant of the means, he would fain appropriate something of this enviable possession 40 HOW TO BE A GENTLEMAN. to himself, — a wish which almost necessarily involves him in affectation. In one word, every Englishman would, without precisely knowing how, he a gentle- man ; and, thanks to the liner and more free element of his government, the desire, accompanied hy industry and good fortune, may he realized. But in Spain, and every other country under a purely monarchical government, men, to adopt a common phrase, know their place ; they are under the influence of a modifi- cation of the system of castes ; such as is the father, such must be the son ; there is no jostling for prece- dence. A traditionary acquiescence in the wisdom of established institutions has grown up among them ; and hence that contentment and animal satisfaction which delude the superficial observer — the man who can envy the felicity of a sloth — into a belief that beings so gross, so unprovided with mental resources, can be considered really happy. But, whatever the Spaniards may be in an ethical or political point of view, they generally furnish good subjects for the artist, whether he chooses to paint them with language or with colours. This is parti- cularly the case at Vitoria, which, being situated near the confines of several provinces, formerly king- doms, is generally filled with a mixed population, every individual of which presents some peculiarity of costume or feature. I was made strongly sensible of this on the Florida, a fine public promenade stretching along the southern suburbs of the city, reminding me, by many of its features, of the noble walk that encompasses the sunny ramparts of Dijon. THE AKTl-PICTURESQUE. 41 Here the view, as there, after wandering over a rich plain, roughened at intervals by inconsiderable ele- vations, is terminated on all sides by mountains. There are points, however, of difference. On the great flat of Burgundy, there are few of those green lanes, or pleasant hedgerows, whose chief merit con- sists in their reminding one of England, or affording shelter in a raw day ; as, in an extended landscape, nothing can be more adverse to the picturesque, since they chequer and break up the face of the country into a resemblance with a Highlander's tartan. In Biscay, however, the fields are, as with us, divided by hedges, and intersected by numerous cross-roads, fenced and shaded by tall trees. The objects occupying the fore-ground on the Florida were more interesting than the distant land- scape; groupes of fine children, attended by handsome deep-bosomed brunettes with large liquid eyes, such as the reader may become acquainted with on the canvas of Murillo. Nurse-maids are in no country a very staid or pensive race. Compelled to take abundant exercise in attending on their little charges, and imbibing too, perhaps, from them some portion of their infantine nonchalance, they generally possess an overflow of health and good spirits, and their character becomes rather hoydenish than demure. They were now engaged in a sort of game, which has been noticed by other travellers ; striking with a small bat from one to another a wooden substitute for a ball, which those towards whom it was directed caught in their aprons. The little mock bull-fight is 42 ZL'MALACARREGUl. another favorite amusement of the young, as described in a former volume. But the inhabitants of Vitoria, though now so gay and apparently free from care, had not many months before been visited by the scourge of civil war, when the mirth of many families had been quenched in blood. It had, in fact, been the scene of one of Zumalacarregui's exploits. This general, active, cruel, and ambitious, suddenly entered Vitoria, where, finding the Christinos in small force, his valour increased in proportion to the little need there was for it. At the head of six thousand men, he put to flight three hundred militia, overpowered the feeble garrison, and immediately proceeded to exact a heavy levy upon such of the inhabitants as were supposed to favour the liberal cause. From his subsequent conduct there seems room, however, to suspect that the possession of wealth was the principal offence punished by Zumalacarregui. He no doubt wanted money for himself, or for Don Carlos ; and, of course, considered it insolent in " fat choughs" of citizens to be hoarding their pesetas and feeding with the gusto of aldermen, while his pockets, like his stomach, were empty. His behaviour, on this occasion, has been differently interpreted. From the superiority of his numbers, and the rapidity with which he made himself master of the town, he was enabled to secure about one hundred and twenty prisoners, whom, after remaining in possession of the place about six hours, he carried off along with him. His object, not at first suspected by any one, soon MODERN SPAIN. 43 became manifest. He had along with him a priest, Don Juan Antofio Laserte, curate of Arroyala ; and, perhaps against his advice, rather than with his con- currence, proceeded, at the village of Hereida, two leagues from Vitoria, to give a practical proof of what the liberals were to expect, should fortune ultimately desert their cause. The prisoners were parcelled out into parties of five, stripped naked, and shot ; after which, death not having been able to satisfy the ven- geance of the gallant victors, knives and bayonets were drawn, with which their savage revenge was sought to be slaked upon the warm corpses of the dead. One man, however, escaped from this nefarious butchery. He had been wounded, but not in a vital part ; and falling among the dead, where both knives and bayonets missed him, he recovered consciousness when all was over, and returned with the tale of what he had witnessed. Such are among the barbarous excesses committed on both sides throughout this lamentable war. It might, by the charitable, be supposed, that Zumalacarregui was actuated by the humane desire of killing off his enemies, the sooner to bring about a peace. I wish so much could with truth be said for him. But this excuse for his severity he was careful, at the outset, to remove, by sparing the military prisoners who fell into his hands, after having stripped them of their arms and uniform. He felt that if these were removed, there would be none to keep up the ball, and his occupation, with all the delights attending it, would be at an end. It is possible that the gentle-hearted old curate of Arroyala assisted by 44 APPALLING PICTURE. compulsion at this characteristic fete, never having been used to similar exhibitions in the Holy Office. He was thought, however, to have exceeded the bounds of priestly charity, and suffered the gentle punishment of banishment. But the general, supposed also I imagine, to have been a Christian, accountable to God for his deeds, received, so far as I can learn, neither check nor reprimand ; but on the contrary, was doubtless applauded by Don Carlos as a good and faithful subject. We have seen, however, the natural result of such a line of policy. The spirit of civil war, every where peculiarly sanguinary, has subsequently become more and more savage ; atrocities have been repaid with atrocities, murders with murders, until, in the depth of their degradation, the Spaniards have resumed the practices, common in the French inva- sion, of wreaking on the wives and mothers of their foes the vengeance they could not, or dared not, on the husbands and sons. CHAPTER III. FROM VITORIA TO BURGOS. Valley of the Zadorra — OrchardsofAlava— Adventure among the Basques — Christino Cavalrj — Town of Puebia — Miranda del Ebro — General absence of Trees — Scarcity of the Picturesque — Vermin — Duke of Wellington — Rocks of Pancorvo — Gran- deur of the Scene — Traverse the Pass — Beautiful Islet — English study of Topography — Rich and Picturesque Valley — Pride of the Castilians — Briviesca — Rudeness of Innkeepers — Feather- ing of Women — Anecdotes — Curate Merino — Lakes of Briviesca — Mountain Pass — Exploit of the Carlists — Arrival at Burgos. On leaving Vitoria, which we did early in the morning, our road lay over the plain and inconsiderable heights above Gomecha, where the French took up their posi- tion on the memorable twenty-first of June. Crossing several small streams, which carry their sparkling waters towards the north with a rattling current, we ascended a small hill, from whence the eye commanded a fine view of the valley of the Zadorra, hastening to bear, through a smiling country, its tributary Avaters to the Ebro. As our muleteer partook largely of his countrymen's disregard of time, it was always prac- ticable, particularly when there were any wine or brandy shops on the way, to outwalk his beasts, and loiter at our ease wherever there happened to turn up anv thing to invite examination. 46 GENUINE URCHIN SIMPLICITY. Upon reaclimg the brow of the hill, just where the road brings us in sight of the small hamlet of Nauclares, being, as usual, considerably a-head of Diego, we turned aside into a pretty footpath leading among the orchards and gardens that covered the whole slope of the declivity. The fruit was ripe, and hung temptingly on the boughs. We longed to transfer some of it to our pockets, but having made small progress in Basque, we vainly sought, through the medium of our Spanish, which, to confess the truth, was none of the purest, to explain our wishes to the ruddy peasants who were there at work. As to the language of signs, which travellers every where find many occasions to employ, it serves very well to make known the fact that something is wanted, but not what, or how much ; at least it does this very imperfectly. We were soon encircled by a little crowd of Bis- cayans, some of whom imagined we had lost our way, and offered, as we could clearly see by their move- ments, to conduct us to the great road. Others sup- posed we were hungry, and with the benevolent design of supplying our wants, led us to their cot- tages, where boiled chestnuts, pork sausages, and excellent fat bacon, — which they considered much better for our stomachs than raw fruit, — were placed with profusion at our disposal. It was impossible not to be delighted with their hospitality, though we would just then have preferred that they should have exhibited more quickness of apprehension. To con- vince them that it was not provisions, but dainties, COURTESY AND HOSPITALITY. 47 we demanded of them, we had recourse to a step which, in any other part of Spain, might have cost us dear, — we showed them our purses ; and, pointing to the delicious pears and apples which, like Tanta- lian fruit, on all sides mocked the eye, signified by most intelligible pantomime what we would have them comprehend, pointing towards the road and to a most primitive vehicle standing within sight, to intimate that we were travellers. Upon this they laughed heartily, I suppose at their mistake about the bacon, and one of the young men going to a tree covered with ripe pears, soon with a single shake, brought down a shower of them upon the grass ; and putting these, with a quantity of fine apples into a basket, insisted upon carrying them to our carriage, where he indignantly refused all remuneration. In the course of the morning, we encountered a considerable party of horse, proceeding from Castile to join the queen's army in Biscay. They moved along enveloped in a cloud of dust, through which, when it cleared away for a moment, we could discover from afar the flashing of their helmets and cuirasses in the sun. Their horses, principally from Andalusia, were full of fire, and exhibited that strength of limb, and roundness about the haunches, which bespoke their descent from the Arab ; and the riders, though they awakened less magnificent ideas than their steeds, appeared, nevertheless, to want only training and the inspiration of a truly popular cause, to render them good men and true. We were allowed to pass without even being questioned ; and, on reaching Puebla, 48 AN AWKWARD VISIT. learned with satisfaction, — as it appeared to promise us an undisturbed journey to Miranda, — that the above-described cavaliers had already been engaged, and done some service in routing a body of Carlists, which had been posted on the road to intercept their advance. The town of Puebla, Carlist perhaps at heart, was now in possession of the Christinos ; and every face wore that anxious, uneasy expression which near-im- pending danger gives birth to. People congregated together in small knots, and though apparently, from long acquaintance, sure of each other's politics, con- versed in dubious expressions, endeavouring all the while to look into each other's thoughts, to discover in what direction they might really be leaning. Here and there sentinels were patrolling the streets, and other soldiers, partly idle, partly on duty, collected on various points, buried in reflection, or discussing with unusual seriousness the chances of being engaged. Few women made their appearance. Even the boys, as they walked along, looked as they do in London on a windy day, when, at every street- turning, they expect to be saluted with a falling tile or chimney- pot. It was clear that a visit from the Carlists was anticipated ; and, in fact, I afterwards learned at Madrid, that, notwithstanding the force possessed in the neighbourhood by the Christinos, a flying incur- sion was that very night made into their district, and much booty in sheep and cattle carried off: Pushing forward at a snail's pace we arrived, early in the afternoon, at Miranda del Ebro, where, though CHARACTERISTICS OF NEW CASTILE. 49 much of the day remained, we resolved to pass the night. To this arrangement Diego was always fa- vourable. He saw no wisdom in hurrying forward at a break -neck rate ; particularly as in every town through which we passed he possessed a number of acquaintances, male and female, with whom, in order to continue on good terms, he considered it necessary to smoke a cigarillo, or sip a goutte. The Ebro, which is here in its infancy, having effected its escape from the mountains of the Asturias, and begun its southern career in search of warmer weather, divides Miranda into two unequal parts. In front of the town, on a rocky hill, a ruinous castle tries to impart an air of picturesqueness to the landscape, which, in spite of the river, is peculiarly bleak and arid, more especially towards the west, where the eye toils up- wards over the dismal slope which leads to the high table-land of New Castile. A few trees, stunted and mean-looking, skirt the great road to the capital. In all other directions you may look in vain for any signs of verdure, though industry, perhaps, under the guidance of an enlightened rural economy, might clothe those barren hills with wood, and the plains and valleys with rich harvests. Though taste may here and there select a subject for the pencil, this is certainly not a country abound- ing in landscapes. For, even where there is grandeur, there is generally nothing characteristic, nothing pecu- liarly Spanish, or, with the exception of the costume where figures are introduced, which might not be found in any other country. But this complaint was 50 THE DUKE OP WELLINGTON. not long to continue. Our journey soon brought us into contact with very different scenery, which re- quired not the excitement of civil war, the apparition of armed bands of robbers or military, — which often in the Peninsula mean the same thing, — or the alarm of a rustic population, to enable it to take a hold on the imagination. Miranda del Ebro possesses little to repay the tra- veller for the risk he encounters from vermin in sleeping there. He should think himself lucky in- deed, if by some of the miracles common in Spain, he is enabled to resist the efforts of those countless myriads that swarm about his dormitory, to bear him into the Ebro, and be suffered to proceed with a whole skin towards Castile. We enjoyed this piece of good fortune, and set off in the morning, prima luce, bidding farewell to the river which had formed the boundary of Charlemagne's conquests in Spain. On our right, as the vehicle began to ascend the eminences west of the stream, we caught a glimpse of the road leading from Puente de Arenas, traversing rude gorges through craggy, precipitous, and almost inaccessible mountains, by which, after having crossed the Ebro nearly at its sources, the Duke of Wellington led his army towards Vitoria. The sun, just risen behind our backs, now flung its warm rays upon the lofty rocks of Pancorvo, — the passes to which have become celebrated by the victories of the great duke, — towering in picturesque grandeur above every other object within the circle of the horizon. Never were their giant forms beheld HOW TO MAKE AN ISLAND. 51 to more advantage. Relieved against the bright blue sky, their jagged and shattered outline rendered start- lingly distinct by the purity of the atmosphere, which appeared to annihilate the distance and bring the whole scene close under the eye, and painted with rich and brilliant colours by the sun, we appeared to be transported with a fragment of the Valaisan Alps beneath a more genial heaven. The eye was now fascinated by this avatar of the picturesque. Every moment, as the carriage rolled on, some new feature, some inexplicable charm of the landscape, some pinnacle that sunk or blended with the rocks beyond, some scarcely perceptible inequality which rose momentarily into importance, kept the fancy constantly awake, and on the look-out for novelty. At length, at May ago, we entered the narrow wind- ing valley formed by these rocks, which, as at Morez in the Jura, rise up like a wall on either hand, and excluding the rays of the sun, produce in broad day a gloom like that of evening. The resemblance to the scene in Franche Comte was rendered more complete by the Oroncillo, whose waters, occupying nearly the whole breadth of the gorge, tumble in noise and foam over their rocky bed ; leaving, however, here and there small patches of soil, which the industry of the pea- sants had converted into so many gardens. In one part of the pass, or garganta, there was a spot which, from contrast with the savage scenery around, ap- peared to be invested with peculiar beauty. An immense block of stone, rolling down the precipices, had taken up its station in the centre of the stream, E 2 52 MILITARY STATISTICS. which, fretting uselessly about its feet, found itself too weak to remove the obstacle. In process of time a quantity of mud accumulated beneath the rock, and seeds of grasses, blown thither by the wind, shot up and bound the islet together with their roots. Mosses and lichens covered the rock itself, — beautiful feathery shrubs grew in the shelter it afforded, — and man stepping in to the aid of nature, the islet was dammed round with stones, tilled, planted, and sown ; and, when we passed, ripe apples were nodding from its banks over the translucent waters of the Oroncillo. Having achieved this pass, and traced the masterly positions and movements of our great British general, we arrived at the village of Pancorvo, situated close to the foot of the rocks at the western extremity of the garganta. The fortress which commands the en- trance of the gorge was, in 1813, strongly garrisoned by the French, then in full retreat before the English army ; and it was this circumstance that compelled the Duke of Wellington to abandon the great road towards Biscay, and move with all his forces to- wards the left, over a country until then deemed impracticable for carriages. On this occasion General Foy, who, in his History of the Peninsular TVar, complains of our neglect of topography, found to his cost, that even sportsmen who traverse districts, Manton in hand, may possess a sufficient know- ledge of the local to out-general the best map-eaters going. This hint, however, may be worth the atten- tion of our military authorities. NATIONAL GRATITUDE IN ALL TIMES. 53 The people of Pancorvo, where we entered upon the cookery of Castile, appear to be liberals of the first water. All the time we were at dinner, an inquisitive circle of politicians surrounded us, and discovering from what part of the world we hailed, entered with us into such a discussion as our hunger would allow us to keep up between mouthfuls, respecting the merits and prospects of General Evans and the British Legion. Though not over addicted to be polite towards strangers, they seemed desirous of showing the good opinion they entertained of English valour, and the beneficial results expected from it. What they may say after the war is another thing. According to Colonel Napier, who, if experience be worth any thing, should know them, Spaniards dis- play but little gratitude towards those who may have delivered them ; but, on the contrary, when the danger is past, claim to enjoy all the honour of removing it. Be this as it may, they were clamorous in their aforehand gratitude. Our prowess was lauded to the skies ; our soldiers were all heroes ; our nation whatever is most high-minded and disinterested. Convinced, whether they were sincere or not, that there was some truth in what they said, the garlic- stew and tolerably good wine we were also discussing, went down more sweetly for the flattery ; for, of the praise bestowed on England we took some small part to ourselves. Dinner being concluded, and Diego in readiness, we took our leave of Pancorvo, and, inwardly well fortified, proceeded along the road to Briviesca, 54 DELIGHTFUL SCENERY. through a richly cultivated vega interspersed with frequent hamlets. The weather continuing beautiful, every thing wore its best aspect. At all times, how- ever, the scene we were now traversing must possess considerable interest, at least for the traveller ; who, seeing it constantly shifting, as one valley, one ravine, one dingle after another, each with its grassy flat and shady brook, comes under the eye, has no time to experience weariness, and often, perhaps, confounds the animal delight produced by motion and novelty, with that arising from the contemplation of the group- ing discoverable in lovely landscapes. Having proceeded for some leagues along the mountains of Occa, and passed through two or three villages of most unprepossessing appearance, where the peasants were sufficiently poor and miserable to have been mistaken for mendicants, we entered the district of Burena, a country invested by nature with so many features of beauty, that almost the first impulse of the traveller is one of regret that it should have fallen to the lot of so unadmiring a people. It has been asserted, that the peasants every where through- out Spain are indolent, ignorant, and proud. If the reflection were true, — which fortunately is not the case, — there would be no difficulty in comprehending why it should be so. Their indolence is the cause of their ignorance, which again, in its turn, is the cause of their national pride; and their pride which, if enlightened, would impel them irresistibly towards knowledge, being based upon profound ignorance, only serves to keep them perpetually grovelling in A KNOTTY POINT. 55 their antediluvian prejudices. It is not through indo- lence alone, however, that they are slaves to the notions of their forefathers. The same stupidity which causes them to rejoice in the continuance of ahsurd customs, leads to the neglect of all improvement in agriculture, in manufactures, in the most necessary arts of life, and converts their villages and dwellings into nests of filth, where pride and vermin swarm ■ together. Every reader will remember the vanity of the Arcadians, which led them to claim for them- selves an existence antecedent to that of the moon. This was simply ridiculous, or founded on some mythological tradition misunderstood. But the pride of the Castilian sometimes plunges him into blas- phemy, as in the case of the Bellasco family, whose motto was — " Antes que Dios fuese Dios, O que el sol illuminaba los penascos, Ya era noble la casa de los Bellascos." Before God was God, Or the sun shone upon the rocks, Already was the house of Bellascos noble.*' It is to this feeling also, I presume, we are to attribute the saying of the Castilian, who, having stumbled and broken his nose against a stone, got up in a furious passion and exclaimed, — '' This is what comes of walking upon the earth ! " In the same way we may, perhaps, account for the extreme laziness every where observable. People here prefer living in penury, to the degrading of their nobility by carefully cul- tivating the soil, ridding their hovels of misery, or 56 NATIONAL DIGNITY. providing themselves with clean linen. The disco- very having long ago been made that people cannot live upon proud crests and armorial bearings, the descendant of a hundred marquesas and condes is compelled to put his aristocratic hand to the plough, or spade ; but he considers it due to his ancestors not to be guilty of plebeian industry, or to procure any thing more for himself and family than what may enable them to starve and be ragged in state. The country itself, however, upon which we now entered, though far from what it might be made by a laborious population, exhibited more neatness and attention to agriculture than are commonly witnessed in Spain. Numerous brooks and rivulets, the con- fluents of the Occa, — which itself at no great distance falls into the Ebro, — supply moisture and fertility to the valleys and hollows opening on all sides into the bosom of the hills. The villages, or pueblos, are frequent, and, as we move along the road, peep forth picturesquely from amid encircling orchards, and groves of chestnut and elm. On arriving at Briviesca, the principal town of the district of Burena, our first care was to provide our- selves with the materials of a good supper, an under- taking which the padrona of our posada declined in no gentle terms : Que tiene usted de hueno ? — " What good things have you got ?" inquired we on entering the kitchen, where an ominous absence of every thing like preparation cast a damp over our spirits. Lo que ustedes han traido ! — *' Whatever you may have brought with you ! " replied she, with an indolent A WARM RECEPTION. 57 drawl, at the same time turning round and dragging her feet and slatternly person towards the fire-place. Presently, however, her daughter came in, and being of a kindlier disposition, our wants were not suffered to remain long unsupplied. She was the first woman I had seen in Castile who had been what is called " feathered" by the Carlists ; that is, who, for having betrayed a leaning towards the liberal cause, had been caught by the curate Merino, and had her long hair cut off close to the head. This punishment was devised by the far-dreaded Zumalacarregui, who made the most of his brief career in taking all the delight which the infliction of cruelty affords a Spaniard. He at one time thought proper, with a degree of hardihood perfectly original, to proclaim the blockade of all the towns and villages occupied by the Christinos in Navarre and the neigh- bouring provinces, which Eodil had fortified. But, as the blockading force had no existence out of his own imagination, the very idea was treated by the enemy with contempt. He found some resource, however, in his unbounded cruelty. Having no other allies upon whom he could depend, he called in to the aid of legitimacy numbers of those ruffians, half assassins half smugglers, who for ages have set the laws at defiance in the vicinity of the Pyrenees ; and forming them into bands, called partidaSy consisting each of some fifty or sixty men, let them loose upon the country, under the pretence of blockading the constitutional towns, with free licence to murder every man, and cut off the hair and feather (emplumar) 58 LAMENTABLE SCENES. every woman, who should be found endeavouring to enter the towns. The indescribable atrocities to which an order like this, issued to miscreants of so desperate a character, must necessarily have given birth, may easily be imagined. Merino sought, upon a small scale, to imitate Zumalacarregui in Castile, more particularly in " feathering" the women, — an employment highly suitable to an old priest; but so deep was the hatred his conduct excited throughout the country, that nothing but the fear of being shot by the more powerful chief, who menaced him openly, could at length restrain him, and he escaped beyond the Ebro from the scene of his exploits. To return, however, to the young woman : we learned in the course of the evening that she had a betrothed lover in the constitutional army, and it was perform- ing some service for him and his comrades that had drawn down upon her the resentment of the savage old priest, who skulked when the Christinos were at hand , but issued forth as soon as the coast was clear to wreak his valour on the weak and defenceless. As might reasonably be expected, both he and his em- ployer are detested in Castile; where it must, at the same time, be admitted, the opposite party are also viewed with little enthusiasm, there being, among the more enlightened, no strong leaning towards either side. This, it will be remembered, was, in the early part of his life, the bias of Zumalacarregui, who, from motives best known to himself, becoming a renegade, was animated by all that fierceness of hatred MORALE OP THE CARLIST CAUSE. 59 known only among those who have abandoned their principles. Briviesca is a walled town, and has four gates which correspond with each other. Its fasti comprehend few events, it being chiefly remarkable in history as the place where the Cortes were held by King John in 1388, when the title of Prince of Asturias was entailed on the eldest sons of the kings of Castile. In a valley at no great distance are two considerable lakes, known among the peasantry by the names of the Black TTell^ and the JVhite W^ell', which, being supposed to pos- sess medicinal properties, are necessarily placed under the protection of some member or another of the celes- tial hierarchy, and, accordingly, are denominated the Lakes of St. Vincent and St. Castilda. The site of Bri- viesca is exceedingly fine. Standing in a valley closely hemmed in on both sides by lofty and rugged moun- tains, it is encircled by beautiful gardens and orchards, where autumnal flowers mingled their bright colours with those of the ripe fruit, which now literally per- fumed the atmosphere. We set forward next morning before sunrise, though the east already exhibited that ruddy blush which, in Spain, betokens fine weather. At such an hour and under such a sky, even very homely landscapes seem beautiful, borrowing at least half their charms from the buoyant spirits of him who looks on them. But here this was by no means the case. The valley through which we rode was fertile, thickly dotted with human dwellings, and richly varied in aspect ; and having at length traversed a mountain-pass, our road 60 "SWEET TO THE MORNING TRAVELLER." entered into a delightful dale, of no great extent, through the bottom of which flows a stream whose banks are shaded by willows and poplars. Continuing to follow the windings of this mountain stream, we passed through the village of Momasterio, celebrated throughout the Peninsula for its excellent cheese. By degrees, however, as we still proceeded to ascend, the streams forsook us, and our track lay over arid ground till we reached the summit of a ridge, said to be one of the loftiest in Spain. Here, at all events, the waters separate, the springs on the northern slope finding their way by the Duero to the Atlantic ; while those on the opposite side swell the current of the Ebro, and fall into the Mediterranean. The view from this airy summit is of vast compass, embracing a singularly striking assemblage of hills and dales, not unlike the prospects one enjoys from the northern exposures of the Apennines. Burgos, with its glittering spires and pinnacles, was distinctly visible ; and the intervening sweep of country, clothed with verdure and warm with sunshine, refreshed the eye, mingling all the charm of contrast with that of pastoral beauty and repose. In descending the mountain, the road traverses a country lavishly clothed with magnificent oaks and cistuses, about the base of which flourishes the hypo- cistus, which impregnates the atmosphere with a deli- cious fragrance. We missed the enema, or evergreen oak of Navarre and the neighbouring provinces, the acorn of which, when roasted, is not inferior to a chestnut. No doubt, however, it is found in these STANDING ANECDOTES. 61 woods, though not observable on the skirts of the highway. At Quintanapalla, a village situated near the foot of the mountains, we heard a story, which, whether true or not, appears to be always kept ready on the tip of the tongue, to be related to every traveller that passes. Like the ladies, too, it has the faculty of remaining ever young; for, as long as the civil war continues, to give a colour to it, the narrator will be sure to add that it happened only a few nights ago. But, however this may be, the legend recounts that the escort of cavalry appointed to convoy the mail to Burgos was surprised and made prisoners, only a very short time before our arrival, by the Carlistas^ or, as the northerns mispro- nounce it, Calristas. The horsemen, it is said, were feasting jovially in the posada kitchen, singing, joking, or swearing over their wine, when a party of the legi- timatists, it is not stated how many, suddenly sprang into the room, and, presenting the muzzle of a musket or blunderbuss to each man's breast, required them to surrender or die. Seeing themselves thus taken at disadvantage, and knowing they must have been be- trayed by their hosts, who had probably harboured the ruffians for the purpose, the Constitutionalists were constrained to submit to their fate, and were carried away prisoners to the mountains, where, having been stripped and robbed, they were dismissed, with each a blanket to cover him and a piece of money to pur- chase food. This tale, repeated with a few necessary variations in forty different places, was evidently a Carlist nouvelette, founded perhaps on fact, but in- 62 DISPUTED POINTS. tended to show the superior daring of the partisans of the prince. The sequel, if not apocryphal, would show that the government considered the peasants of the village no less guilty than the marauders, who were probably followers of the curate Merino ; for it im- posed a heavy fine on the place, and imprisoned the padrono, who had, perhaps, shared in the plunder. This has been, by some writers, stigmatized as base ; but as, throughout the provinces, it has been custom- ary with the opposite party to put men to death for much slighter offences, the government ought rather, it is argued on the other side, to be applauded for its forbearance. However this may be, it was beyond the scope of my views to make myself a party to any political feeling or prejudice whatsoever. Having reached the plain, our road lay along the course of the Arlanzon, and was shaded on either side with trees, which already began, in many places, to shed their leaves, or assume the rich hues of autumn. The sun's beams, penetrating between their umbrageous boughs, played in broad patches upon the dusty avenue, and the chequered shade, cool and refreshing, was extremely agreeable to the eyes, fa- tigued by many hours' exposure to an unmitigated glare. A gentle breeze, too, was playing above among the rustling leaves, which, as they alternately shook and swung backward and forward with their sustaining boughs, imitated the sound of the ocean heard at a distance inland. In a short time we again caught glimpses of Burgos, of which we had entirely lost sight since quitting the summit of the mountains above ; APPROACH TO BURGOS. 63 and presently afterwards observed the horsemen and pedestrians, laden carts, mules, asses, &c. becoming every moment more frequent, showing we were drawing near a place of some importance. About noon our lazy vehicle passed under the gates, and we found ourselves, with no small pleasure, in the capital of Old Castile. Like some of the older cities of Spain, Burgos — once the residence of kings — wears the aspect of an ancient, dilapidated strong-hold, bearing ample evidence of the fierce career of the spoiler — War, and of the desperate efforts made for its possession by the Spaniard and the Moor. Alternately lost or won, the fortunes it expe- rienced, and the events it witnessed, long employed the genius of the elder chroniclers and romancers of those stirring times ; and the striking old ballads and the historic songs of the Cid are, perhaps, the only effusions of a chivalrous muse which have not suf- fered by the keen-pointed shafts of the prince of all humorous novelists. CHAPTER IV. BURGOS. Ancient glory of Spain— Government — Birth-place of the Cid — Rivalry of Burgos and Toledo— the Cathedral — Young Spanish Artist — Beautiful Fa9ade — Poetry of Architecture — View in the Interior — Style and Effect of the Sculpture — Pictures and Kelics — Chest and Legend of the Cid— Comparison of the Ca- thedral with York Minster — View from the great central Tower — Scarcity of Timher — Convent of Mirallores— Carmelite Con- vent — San Pedro — Tomh of the Cid— Beauty of Spanish Wo- men — Costume. It is something for the Spaniards that, though the present offers few examples of heroic virtue, or honour, or patriotism, they can yet point to the past, when there was glory in Spain, though connected with a system of things in itself undesirable ; for, when chivalry was proudest, their courage most undoubted, and their manners the best recognisable in their his- tory, there still existed unhappy causes of dissension, which cast their poisonous shadow, like the fabulous Upas, upon every thing imagined or executed. And this circumstance, in my case at least, stifled much of the enthusiasm I should otherwise have experienced at beholding the scene, or in perusing the chronicles of her heroes, who, however adventurous or brave, were still but the representatives of an exclusive and OLD CHRONICLES. 65 oppressive class of men. Such was the feeling, damped and alloyed, with which I looked upon. the birth- place of the Cid, celebrated by romancers until his character in history almost appears doubtful.* His native town, however, whatever faith we may put in his legend, is a place of considerable anti- quity, and was once the capital of a kingdom, when the narrow domains of a petty chief were dignified with such an appellation. By some writers its origin has been traced back to classic times, and confounded with that of the Bravum of Ptolemy ; while others, of whom Laborde is one, consider it more probable that it stands on the site of Aura, another ancient city, and built somewhere in the ninth or tenth century. Which- ever conjecture is right, it flourished long, and only began to fall into decay when Charles V. removed the seat of empire to Madrid. It is still a fine city, the first, perhaps, in the Castiles, though Toledo refuses to admit the superiority ; and, if I could, I would not decide a dispute carried on with so much wisdom and advantage to both parties during two centuries, — •* Arcades ambo," — and why should they not dispute? The course of events has left them little else to amuse them, and employ their spare energies, unless they choose to engage in civil war. The first thing about w^hich a stranger makes in- quiries at Burgos is of course the cathedral, a building * According to several chroniclers, he was born at Bivar, a village two leagues distant. F 66 CONTROVERSIES AND CATHEDRALS. that owes its first erection to the architectural genius of the thirteenth century. Three hundred years after- wards the chancel was found to require some repairs ; and the grand altar was constructed at a period when true taste began to be revived in the country. As our stay in Burgos was somewhat protracted, we paid several visits to this noble building, but shall here describe only the first ; introducing, however, remarks made subsequently at leisure. We were ac- companied by a young Spanish artist, who, having travelled, was in a great measure delivered from those ignorant prejudices which too generally infest the minds of his countrymen, and, after the first effer- vescence is over, render their gasconading vivacity intolerable. He was not, indeed, professionally an architect, but had yet bestowed upon the lies jEdi- Jicaria suflficient attention to entitle his decisions to respect. The facade of this edifice, erected in a pure gothic style, presents all those features which characterise the order of buildings to which it belongs, and immedi- ately produce upon the mind the desired impression. Perhaps the architects who reared these fanes, entered but little into metaphysical investigations concerning the best means of awing the approaching Christian into a frame of mind suited to the religious observances to be witnessed within, — philosophy being in those days but little understood, except when required to furnish matter for dispute ; but most unquestionably a pro- found conviction and veneration for the truths they taught stepped in to guide their practice, and enable IMPRESSIONS ON THE MIND. 67 them to accomplish their aim. On issuing forth from a crowd of secular structures, the abode of little cares, hopes, and speculations, into the open space before the cathedral, a striking change in the state of our feelings is experienced as its beautiful front and heaven-point- ing spires meet the eye. Something, no doubt, is to be traced to early associations ; but even a savage would be struck by it. A flood of holy aspirations pour in upon the soul. Our every-day worldly habits fall away from about us ; a pure fervour, or an exqui- site calm, springs up ; we appear to be verging towards a spot which communicates with heaven, — a spot over which some visible shekinah hovers, — where, to be found with heart unrenewed and desires unsanctified, would be a palpable profanation. To analyze the causes which concur in producing this effect, would scarcely be compatible with the popular character of this work ; for they lie deep amid the very foundations of art, surrounded by a light barely sufficient to enable the practised eye to contemplate them. Let us enter the cathedral, which is of so vast an extent that divine service may there be performed in eight chapels at once, without occasion- ing the slightest embarrassment or confusion. It was not now the hour of mass. The rays of the early sun, streaming inward through richly wrought windows and between the tall clustered columns, fell in purple, crimson, and orange masses upon the floor, or lighted up the form of some passing devotee. Far in the inte- rior we observed a group of ladies, with dark veils partly concealing their snowy shoulders, clustering f2 68 NATIONAL TRAITS. round an image, some standing, some upon their knees. Others were congregated near the staircase, whose massive stone balustrades are surmounted by dragon-shaped monsters couched like sphinxes. These were practising singing; and near them a young priest, engaged in reading to his superior, was casting clan- destine glances at the fair ones. The artist has hap- pily reproduced this group, in his view of the staircase leading to the great organ ; and his representation will, better than any language, convey an idea of the mag- nificent style in which the cathedral in every part is decorated with ornaments : — pictures, statues, tracery, scrolls, mullions, altar-formed cippi, pillars, fantastic abaci, cornices, entablatures, friezes, the whole har- monizing wonderfully together in the soft light shed from vast windows far above. The design and execution of the statues, bassi relievi, and other ornaments crowded into the choir, have by some travellers been criticised with severity ; perhaps from their not reflecting how much more stress is, in the gothic, laid upon the general result, than on particular decorations. None of these statues, for example, will abide the test which might with safety be applied to a piece of Hellenic sculpture, where individual perfection was aimed at ; but viewed where they stand peopling the choir and awakening, every one of them, a feeling of religion which few imaginations can now connect with the form of a heathen divinity, they concur in accomplishing the grand design of the original architect, impressing us with solemn feelings, the natural prelude to true devo- SPANISH ARCHITECTS. 69 tion. In the places of worship of those severer sects of Protestants, who condemn all representations of every thing in heaven above, or in the earth beneath, as incentives to idolatry, a sensation of holy awe is engendered by the very bareness of the walls. You appear to feel the presence of God, of that first beau- tiful, and first good, that may well supply the place of all other ornament. He seems to be the more present to your mind, because no attempt is made to clothe his incomprehensible nature with form, or to distract the thoughts from him by representations of inferior beings. But I would not, therefore, condemn such other means of exciting solemn reflections, or a devout exaltation of sentiment, as may among nations less civilized and spiritual be found necessary. With these, material symbols and visible mementoes may avail, when all suggestions conveyed by circumstances less obvious would be found ineffectual. But even as works of art, the carvings of the choir in many cases possess considerable merit, particularly two series of bassi relievi, arranged in tiers one above the other, representing scriptural subjects, those above being taken from the New Testament, and those be- neath from the Old. The artists who executed them are not, perhaps, known with certainty ; but may probably have been Koderigo and Martin del Aja, two men of singular ability, who sculptured the bassi relievi which adorn the great altar. To them also may be attributed the pagan group on the back of the episcopal stall, representing the rape of Europa. Among the beautiful monuments and other relics of 70 CHEST OF THE CID. art contained in the several chapels, we particularly remarked those raised to the memory of the famous constable of Castile, Pedro Hernandez de Velasco, and his wife Mencia Lopez de Mendoza. It would, in general, be useless to attempt a cata- logue of the pictures we meet with in the Spanish cathedrals, though they are far less rich than those of Italy ; but in the metropolitan church of Burgos there are some few pieces that deserve to be commemorated, whether they are the works of the artists to whom they are attributed or not. The most remarkable is a Mary Magdalen, in the sacristy of the constable's chapel, which, whether it be by Eaffaello or Leonardo da Vinci, is an incarnation of female loveliness. Next to this, is a full-sized picture of the Virgin, said to be by Michael Angelo, who, when he chose, could soften his terrible pencil, as in the case of the Cleopatra, and call into existence forms as gentle as those of nature herself. The Crucifixion, by Matteo Cerezo, a native of Burgos, has also much merit ; it occupies a place in the chapel De los Eemedios. Of the various relics we took no account, though the good people imagine some of them to be endowed with the power of working miracles. But the " Chest of the Cid," connected with a story carefully repeated to all travellers, is an object of considerable curiosity, from the legend attached to it. This legend, like many other things, may be taken by two handles, and converted either into an excuse for reprehending, or a theme for praise in the character of the Cid. Gn the eve of setting forth on his military career, find- HOW TO RAISE A LOAN. 71 ing himself in the position, not uncommon even at this day among Spanish nobles, of a penniless man, he had recourse to the effect of his former good character, and by the help of a well-meant lie, — but still a lie, — contrived to furnish his coffers, and sup- ply his followers with necessaries. He invited two ancestors of Baron Rothschild to dine with him, and having entertained them handsomely, opened the busi- ness of the day, and offered to leave them two chests of plate in pledge for what money he wanted. His former honesty enabled him to be dishonest now. Instead of plate, of which, it is to be presumed, he had none, two boxes of sand were left with the Jews, who, trusting to his honour, omitted to open them. This is not a bad example of the " stern virtues " of the middle ages. If the fortune of war had gone against him, the Jews, who had relied upon his honour, must have contented themselves with their boxes of sand, and such reflections as they would necessarily have made on the word of *' that noble mirror of chivalry." Fortunately, however, for them, El Cid Campeador was enabled to redeem his boxes, in which he is represented as saying that the *' gold of his truth" lay hidden ! Alas, for the truth which could delude men into the belief that sand was plate ! Yet persons have not been wanting to laud this knightly feat, and to talk of '* sentiments so noble" being natural to the Spaniards ; but why they should be denominated " noble," or why heroes should be complimented on such grounds as these, it would be difficult to explain. 72 HERALDIC DUENNAS. In speaking of the cathedral of Burgos, I should not omit to mention its resemblance in form to York minster, which, when entire, was by an excellent critic regarded as the standard by which gothic sacred architecture ought to be judged. Its steeples, ter- minating in spires, and vast square tower with eight pinnacles, correspond exactly with those of the English church ; and, to complete the likeness, we have a lower octagonal building at the east end with eight pyramidal turrets, terminating in needles, piercing an open star-like ornament, which the reader will at once recognise as the counterpart of the chapter-house at York. Here however, as elsewhere, the integrity and harmony of the view are destroyed by the clustering of mean dwelling-houses about the base; and a secular, not to say a barbarous and ridiculous air, is communicated to its appearance, when beheld near, by a couple of heraldic monsters, one on either side of a window, defending with their hideous ugliness the arms of Castile. But as the eye travels upward over those clustering pillars which climb along the turrets with the slenderness and delicacy of reeds, and finds itself among that forest of decorations, statues, fretwork, foliage, filagree, and tapering turrets that crown the summit of this exquisite octagon, we feel ourselves in presence of one of the triumphs of art, and are absorbed in the depths of admiration. But these pleasures are to a great degree exclusive, belonging only to a certain class of minds, formed by nature and trained by education to discover beauty in harmonious combinations of solidity and grace. The BURGOS AND ITS WONDERS. 73 natives, born under the shadow of the cathedral, regard the whole with an undistinguishing eye. They have looked upon it till they know not what it means. You may, any day in the week, find lounging groupes of men or women bending over greasy cards on the steps of a door, or sunning their lazy limbs at the very foot of the chapter-house, unconscious of its beauties, like the Genevese, who would gladly level the environs of his lake to convert them into a turnip field. Nor is this matter of surprise, or, indeed, of blame. They have not been taught to derive grati- fication from the contemplation of any thing higher than a purse of reals, and accordingly confine their admiration to " what will make the pot boil," as one of their homely proverbs expresses it. From the summit of the great central tower, where you may breathe the cool breeze after the toil of the ascent, we enjoyed a magnificent prospect over the whole city and its environs. Burgos stands on the slope of an almost precipitous hill, which is com- manded by a castle of antique structure, formerly the residence of the counts, and afterwards of the kings of Castile. The river Arlanzon, flowing at the foot of the declivity, divides the suburbs from the city, and continuing its visible course down the vale, is every where accompanied by signs of population and fertility. As far as the eye can reach, the country is well wooded ; and many rivulets, bringing their tribu- tary waters to the Arlanzon, enrich, each in its turn, some miniature vale, beautified with rural hamlets encircled with foliage. Among the remarkable build- 74 WOODEN LAWS. ings from hence distinguishable was the Carthusian convent of Miraflores, standing beautifully on a round hill, which I afterwards visited, and the abbey De las Huelgas, on the road to Valladolid, once inhabited by a bevy of noble nuns, whose abbess, in riches and pre- rogatives, almost rivalled a sovereign princess. While we sat aloft in this artificial eyry, enjoying the con- templation of the picturesque, our ears were pierced by sounds peculiar, perhaps, to Spain. A string of carts from Aragon, laden with bull-spears and iron, was just then winding through the narrow streets below, and the grinding of their ungreased wheels, musical as ten thousand files, made us sigh for the comparative Arcadian stillness of Merthyr Tydvil iron-works. I have above remarked that the environs of Burgos are well wooded, but this requires explanation; for, though a sufficiency of trees exists to adorn the land- scape, and refresh the eye with the aspect of verdure, there is a lamentable scarcity of fuel, which began to be felt as far back at least as 1753, when it was deemed of importance enough to command the atten- tion of government. It may, however, by the way, be observed, that all over the continent the forests are fast disappearing, and fuel every year becoming more and more scanty ; so that in France, where the com- forts and conveniences of the people are still very little consulted, the government has at length been constrained to improve its forest laws, hitherto lamentably deficient. On the royal domains, since the accession of Louis Philippe, the larger game have ROYAL EXAMPLE. 15 been destroyed, their preservation having been found inconsistent with the raising of young timber, whose tender shoots they cropped in the spring, and thus caused to perish. The Spanish government adopted a different plan. By an ordonnance of the Coimcil of Castile, every inhabitant of the country was enjoined to plant five trees. But the execution of this order having been confided to ignorant and inefficient per- sons, the object of the government was in a great measure defeated ; in some places through malignity, in others, more particularly in Old Castile, through prejudice, the peasants having imbibed the notion that the trees brought together birds, and other vermin inimical to the wealth of the husbandman. Attempts, injudicious in their nature, were made to enforce obedience, but without success. The planta- tions, in some districts, were cut down by passers by, wantonly, or for saplings ; elsewhere they were made ignorantly, and perished from not being adapted to the soil ; while in other places, perhaps, the same hands that fixed them in the earth, for various reasons uprooted them. Recourse was at last had to the only argument really calculated to prevail : those in power, king and grandees, set the example by making planta- tions in their several grounds ; the bishops and curates followed in their footsteps ; and thus some advances were made towards hiding with leaves the nakedness of Spain. The effects of this patriotic resolution are still visible, as I have said, in the environs of Burgos, par- ticularly upon the banks of the Arlanzon, along which 76 CONVENTUAL ATTRACTIONS. lies the road to the convent of Miraflores, situated about half a league south-east of the city. The cloisters are spacious, lofty, and constructed with much taste; but it is the church attached to the convent that constitutes the object of the traveller's admiration. It was erected during the fifteenth century, under the direction of three successive architects, Ferdinand Mutienzo, John of Cologne, and Simeon his son. Other architects have contributed to enrich the interior. In the chancel are two superb tombs, the one on the right, the other on the left-hand side of the altar, containing the mortal remains of John II. and his son. That of the king consists of an octa- gonal base supporting a couchj whereon recline the statues of King John, with the vain insignia of royalty, and of his queen, crowned also, but holding, instead of a sceptre, a book in her hand. Thirteen smaller figures, among which are those of the four evangelists, are grouped round the royal couch. The other tomb is surmounted by the statue of a child, in the attitude of prayer. The execution of these works, upon the whole, is chaste and elegant, but the plan somewhat more complicated than good taste will approve. More praise is, perhaps, due to the artist who conceived the design of the principal altar, which is in the gothic style, crowded with bassi relievi and statues executed in a very superior manner. Figures of the Virgin and St. John, introduced near a crucifix, occupy the central compartment ; and on the sides are placed two pictures by Pedro Antanasio, the one representing the dream of St. Joseph, the other his death. In the sacristy is a ART AND ABTISTS. 77 piece of great merit by Diego de Leyva — the Virgin bestowing a chaplet on St. Bruno ; and the chapter- room contains a series of fourteen pictures by the same artist, distinguished for the harmony and beauty of the colouring, in which are represented the princi- pal events in the life of St. Bruno. Other pictures, remarkable for their antiquity or their merit, are found in this church ; but we cannot now pause to enumerate or describe them. Our next pilgrimage was to the ruins of the Carmelite convent, where vegetation is fast springing over fallen fragments, and creeping upward over the shattered walls to clothe them with fresh beauty, and, interspersed with sculpture and tracery, to present that singular group- ing of natural and artificial objects which renders decay lovely. Nothing can be richer, or, at the same time, more whimsical or grotesque, than the style of the doorway, which in some of its decorations resembles what we find in Mamalook buildings. Others are peculiar to the gothic ; for example, the statues of saints, introduced into a voluted compartment between too highly projecting beads, and each with his taber- nacle over his head, bending round to suit the curva- ture of the arch, and butting pates at each other above. But in the midst of this grotesqueness there is surpas- sing beauty. What can be finer than the draped figure of Our Lady on the right ? Standing on a pillar in a deep niche, with a most tasteful and yet highly ornate tabernacle overhead, she gathers together her robes with one hand, presses the other on her bosom, and leans slightly forward, like a Hellenic statue, as if in 78 ROOM FOR REFLECTION. the act of blessing her worshippers. The apostles, angels, and other figures, more or less perfect, which adorn the face of this extraordinary ruin are all dis- tinguished for the appropriate movement of their atti- tude ; and the art with which they are grouped, the decorations interspersed, and the position assigned to each, — every thing combines to render this fragment the admiration of connoisseurs. Fortunately for us, too, — and it is a piece of good fortune that seldom any where falls to the lot of a traveller, — there were neither guides nor beggars about the spot to interrupt the current of our feelings. Earth and sky appeared to be wrapped in sunshine and stillness. The breeze, rustling among the branches, wafted a mild fragrance about us, which seemed redolent of health and buoyant spirits. A few autumnal birds got up a pleasant song in the trees, and the sparrows, which doubtless abound wherever man has fixed his abode, were busily hopping from niche to niche, now perching on St. Peter's nose, and now nestling in the bosom of the Virgin. I protest against being understood, by what is here said, to intimate any hostility to beggars ; on the contrary, so lax are my economico-political notions that I seldom, when the thing is convenient, miss an occasion of dropping my mite into their capacious reservoirs; but this does not prevent my being an enemy to their practice of besetting the avenues to every beautiful spot or object in France, Spain, and Italy, and by their appearance, and the lugubrious howls they find it necessary to make in order to force DEAD AND LIVING HEROES. 79 their way to the purses of the wealthy, dissipating in a very great degree the pleasure to be derived from beholding whatever is most excellent in nature or art. Though by no means deeply versed in the ballad literature, or deeply imbued with admiration for the gothic heroes of Spain, we would not quit Burgos without paying a visit to the convent of San Pedro, where the mortal remains of the Cid and his wife Ximena repose. On this expedition we were not alone. An honest guide, who seemed capable, should his real stock fail him, of inventing an extempore legend or two for the amusement of good-natured travellers, accompanied us thither ; and, that we might not accuse him of being chary of his lungs or of his knowledge, his tongue never ceased pouring forth such authentic particulars as he had gleaned from the chronicles, or his own more fertile imagination. He assured us we were going to see, in the effigies of the hero on his tomb, an exact likeness of a man who, had he now been living, would easily, by his own prowess, have driven Don Carlos out of the Free Provinces, (as the Basque districts are somewhat sin- gularly denominated,) and secure a constitution to Spain. He had already beaten Charlemagne and Napo- leon, (he did not trouble himself about chronology,) when death, ever envious of Castilian glory, carried off both him and his wife, and left our times nothing but unromantic peseteros, who are obliged to eat before they can fight , a sad falling off, — for the great men of former days, when the sheep of Castile were nearly as large as buffaloes, knights of prowess and conduct 80 HUDIBRASTIC ILLUSTRATIONS. made no account whatever of creature comforts. And this persuasion, in strict conformity with our best knowledge of human nature, was seriously entertained by those sage authorities alluded to by Butler, where, having spoken of some of their renowned deeds, he says, — ** For when, afar, through deserts vast> Or regions desolate the^^ passed. Unless the J grazed, there's not one word Of their provisions on record ; Which made some confidently write They had no stomachs but to fight." Which, though by the example of King Arthur this ingenious author is afterwards led to contradict, we are convinced is a far more philosophical view of the practice of knights -errant than that other theory, which supposes them to have eaten and drank like other people. However this may be, we proceeded merrily along upon our mules, until having reached the brow of an inconsiderable eminence, Don Guzman (for our guide was of gentle blood, as might be guessed by his regard for truth) pointed out to us the convent, lying in all its loneliness at the bottom of a quiet hollow, sur- rounded by a circle of low hills. In judging of such matters, much depends on the humour of the traveller at the moment. Accordingly, I find that persons exceedingly lavish of praise on other occasions, have become suddenly critical on beholding the towers of San Pedro, and disparaged its huge quadrangle and warlike battlements, which have only the single defect of reminding one of a London Penitentiary. But PROGRESS OF BARBARISM. 81 this is not an insurmountable objection, particularly as the resemblance ceases when you contemplate the solitary aspect of the scene, the snowy mountains hanging like a cloud over the eastern extremity of the landscape, and the intense blue of the sky encircling the whole like a frame of turquoise. On drawing near the sculptured portal of the con- vent, we were reminded by a multitudinous group in semialto relievo, of the exploits of the Arab hero Antar ; but were informed, that it represented the Cid himself mounted on his fabulous steed, driving, with brand in hand, over the falling or prostrate Moors. We have here an example of how barbarism leads, in various ages and countries, without imitation, to the same result ; for this group, like the Egyptian sculptures, is painted and gilded precisely as the master-pieces of Grecian art were disfigured, appa- rently with public approbation, by Nero. There is considerable vigour, nevertheless, in the sculpture : the hero is represented in a good attitude, and the horse is full of fire ; but by a mistake, not uncommon among artists, who are seldom over-gifted with philo- sophy, the enemy are embodied in forms over which it would require but little heroism to triumph. The object of our visit — the Cid's tomb — Is found in a small side chapel on the right hand, in pro- ceeding up the church towards the altar. There is a religion about the grave which all must feel, even in common cemeteries; but the mind is necessarily more powerfully affected when we draw near the spot where a man of distinguished merit and reputation is gathered 82 HOW TO MAKE CONVERTS. to his fathers. And such, doubtless, was the Cid, not- withstanding the little affairs of the sand-boxes, of which we have spoken rather jocularly a few pages back. The ashes of the hero's wife, Ximena, are mingled with his in the tomb ; and their effigies, side by side, like those of Eloisa and Abelard, recline in marble above, an image of that beautiful repose thus silently brought to mind, which spirits enjoy beyond the grave. Near the parental dust lies that of his two daughters, Elvira and Maria, queens of Aragon and Navarre, through whose offspring many a royal house still existing may claim to be descended from the Cid ; though few of them, perhaps, have inherited any of his virtues. Some travellers have animadverted with unnecessary severity upon the French, who, during their occupation of Spain, removed the remains of the Cid from this convent to the public promenade of Bin-gos. I also disapprove of their taste, but applaud, in this instance at least, their conduct, which unquestionably was based on a profound respect for the virtues and valour of the hero. They imagined, falsely no doubt, that the sight of an illustrious tomb would inspire their less heroic contemporaries with an emulous desire of greatness like that which had immortalized their ancestor, and therefore dragged the bones from their quiet resting-place to bring them immediately under the public eye. But few converts, perhaps, are thus made to patriotism or magnanimity. No trace, I believe, exists of any lady of modern Paris having been rendered more spiritual or more constant in love A PLEASANTER TOPIC. 83 by the advent in Pere la Chaise of the tomb from the Paraclete ; though no human being, whose heart is rightly placed, could ever pass that antique gothic tabernacle without experiencing an accelerated mo- tion in the pulse, and a sense of pride at belonging to the same race as she whose image still breathes around her sepulchre all the sanctity of ennobling affection. It were better, however, I admit, — far better, — to leave the dead in the spot where they chose to be laid, or the love of kindred survivors placed them ; particularly when, as in the case of the Cid, it happens to be protected from habitual profanation by the influence of the national creed, and with religious reverence unites the scarcely less powerful sentiment inspired by scenes remote and solitary. To the su- perstitious, by nature or by religion, the legendary relations of quaint and garrulous chroniclers may supply additional motives for respect. Upon myself they produce a different effect, suggesting degrading ideas of fanaticism and intolerance ; as, where they celebrate, in barbarous phrase, the sectarian feuds of the Papists, Jews, and Moors of a period, when all were shrouded from the light of the pure Gospel by one common circumfused cloud of ignorance. It has become fashionable among travellers in Spain, particularly in these portions of it, to grow eloquent in praise of the beauty of the women. Much, among those whose admiration is genuine, depends upon accidental circumstances. They have, perhaps, had the good foiivme to fall in with a favourable spe- cimen, both in character and appearance, and very G 2 84 QUOT HOMINES TOT SENTENTIiE. naturally transfer the flattering ideas, by these means acquired, to the whole race. It is, in fact, exceed- ingly difficult to speak correctly and rationally on the subject. Not to dwell on the differences of taste, — which after all, perhaps, are nothing more than the difference between knowledge and ignorance, — men's judgments are warped by so great a variety of con- siderations, that on this, or any other point with which passion is accustomed to interfere, it would be unreasonable to expect uniformity in their decisions. But among persons, not only constituted alike, but educated amid the same ethical and philosophical influences, we have a right to look for some resem- blance in their ideas of loveliness, particularly in the conformation of their own species. However, we frequently look for it in vain. One man, for example, will find, in traversing this part of Castile, that the Women in the neighbourhood of Burgos are gifted with remarkable beauty; while another pronounces them to be as ugly as sin. Both, possibly, desire to speak truth, but above all things abhor being com- mon-place; and hence, partly, the discrepancy in their descriptions, each seizing upon the opposite extreme of what they saw, and generalizing unphilosophically. It is by no means easy to be eloquent or striking in correcting errors, and introducing moderation into a discussion; but I must risk the charge of being common-place, for the sake of keeping within the limits of truth. The Spanish women, like all others of southern race, have remarkably fine large eyes, not indeed intelligent, or expressive of any thing beyond FEMALE BEAU IDEAL. 85 mere passion; but bright and sparkling, and full of animal fire. Their complexion, moreover, is often good, though dark, and their carriage possessed of all the grace and charm arising from ease and intense self-possession. Otherwise they appear to me far from beautiful. There is nothing of that classic lightness and sunniness of aspect discoverable in women of Hellenic blood, — nothing verging upwards towards the region of the ideal, or which wears the semblance of " commercing with the skies." They are all earth's mixture, — of corporeal mould. This cha- racter is given to the countenance by a flatness and squareness of visage, such as the ancient sculptor seized upon when they would represent the merry wood-gods and their train, and of which they found the type among the surrounding barbarians, or half-castes at home. But such a style of features is well enough calculated, we know, to please persons of a peculiar temperament. They seek not for those creatures of poetic mould, in whom the rays of passion are so intimately blended with those of intellect, in whom imagination, fancy, and whatever is least terrestrial in human nature, are so wedded to ardour of feeling and depth of emotion, that the result is the most perfect harmony of soul and sentiment ; but, instead of this, are content with warmth and vivacity, grafted on youth and health, and accordingly find what they admire in Spain. This will be intelligible to any person, without traversing the Pyrenees, who will be at the pains to study the pictures of Murillo, Velasquez, or any other Spanish artist ; and compare them with the poetical 86 BISCAYAN BEAUTIES. beauties of RaiFaelle, or of a Greek sculptor. Here we find the poetry of womanhood as it exists, not as it may be imagined, — for most ignorant or unhappy is he who supposes there is any possible beauty in humanity which does not exist in womankind ; while the Spanish artist, embodying what he saw and under- stood, fell short of that ideal loveliness reserved by nature for a more highly favoured race. Unquestion- ably, in traversing the Peninsula, the eye may now and then distinguish among the crowd of forms pressing around it, some more exquisitely fashioned, and in- stinct with a nobler soul, than others. What I mean is, that such specimens of beauty are rarer in Spain than in some other countries, — than in England for example, or Greece ; and when they occur, still, in most cases, are wanting in certain traits and touches which elevate the human figure towards the perfection attributed by the nations of old to their divinities. These exceptions are found chiefly, perhaps, in the north. In fact, a very judicious traveller, not addic- ted to exaggeration, has given a testimony in favour of the charms of the fair Biscayans, which it may be but justice to add : ''The women (he says) are beautiful as angels, tall, light, and merry ; their garb is neat and pastoral ; their hair falls in long plaits down their backs, and a veil or handkerchief, twisted round in a coquettish manner, serves them for a very becoming head-dress." CHAPTER V. FROM BURGOS TO VALLADOLTD AND SEGOVIA. Quit Burgos — Valley of the Arlanzon — Storks' Nests- — Torque- raada — Naked Plain — the Pisuerga — Poverty of the Tnhahitants — Worship of Despotism — Vineyards of Dueiias — Wines of Cabezon — Gil Bias — Valladolid — Cookery — RomanticReminis- cences — the Giant — Promenades and Churches — Monks' Nests — Drilling- Conscripts — Desertion — Departure — Simancas — Hornillos — Valley of the Eresma — Olmedo — Cow's Tail — Ap- proach to Segovia — Arrival. Quitting Burgos by the gate of Valladolid, our road for some time lay through the valley of the Arlanzon, and was flanked on either hand with trees. We enjoyed a delightful view of the celebrated convent before mentioned, standing in bold relief from its eminence, and the picturesque-looking abbey, which we passed by with no little regret at not having leisure to stop and visit them. The sun, rising behind our backs, lighted up the landscape, which for some time continued to exhibit considerable beauty. Eanges of hills, or rather mountains, rose on either side of the road, and being in many parts well wooded, at least towards the foot, exhibited, as they alternated with narrow highly culti- vated valleys, varied and pleasing features. The villages on this part of the road are very nu- merous ; and we observed, on almost every steeple, an OC5 NATURAL COQUETRY. old stork's nest, these birds being held in great vene- ration throughout Spain, as they are in Holland and the East. The Arlanzon, as if loath to part company with us, kept constantly within view until we reached Villadrigo, a village built to show how dexterously they can in Spain mar the effects of a good situation ; for, though it stands most agreeably on the right bank of the stream, its poverty and wretchedness wholly overpower the advantages of position. The country now sinks into a vast plain, interspersed with a few half-starved looking vineyards, bespeaking most elo- quently how much the dolcefar niente is here thought to surpass all other pleasures. Having weathered a couple of tolerably steep ascents, where our mules seemed strongly disposed to take a nap as they moved along, — if they really did move, — we reached the further brow of an eminence commanding a prospect of the Pisuerga, with its fertile but timber- less valley. At no great distance lay the town of Quintana de la Puente, or *' of the Bridge," — so called from a fine stone bridge of eighteen arches there thrown over the Pisuerga. The road and the river proceed upon a very coquettish plan throughout the whole extent of this broad valley, now tending towards each other, meeting with outstretched arms, snatching a hasty salute, and then running off pouting at a tan- gent, as if each in high dudgeon had vowed by St. Jo go they would never be neighbours again ; yet once more slily approaching towards the same point, and again separating, until circumstances finally produce a lasting divorce. BAD CULTIVATION. 89 At Torquemada, we again traverse the stream, over a bridge of twenty-six arches. The houses, in this part of the country, are built like the Egyptian vil- lages and the ancient cities of Mesopotamia, with sun-dried bricks ; but, as their baking is extremely imperfect, not being effected by an Egyptian sun, it is surprising the first heavy shower does not once more reduce them to their original mud. However, the church of Torquemada, as is generally the case, affords a striking contrast to the poverty of the private dwel- lings, being erected in a handsome style of gothic architecture. The country at length opens into a vast naked plain, arid, shrivelled, and sun-burned, where the eye seeks in vain for bush or tree. Here the Spanish farmer must enjoy the satisfaction of taking the birds at. complete disadvantage, as there is not a leaf to cover them ; and if his corn is thin, it cannot be laid to the charge of the forests, which are elsewhere said to harbour sparrows, &c., but must be attributed to his own indolence and slovenliness, or the natural poverty of the soil. From the road we discover, across the i bare flat, such as we have above described it, the vil- lage of Magaz, not far from which is the confluence of the rivers Arlanzon and Arlanza, whose united stream afterwards falls into the Pisuerga. The river formed by the junction of these and other tributaries, pursues, under the name of Pisuerga, an almost direct course from north to south, and falls into the Duero at Simancas, a little to the west of its confluence with the Eresma. 90 VILLAGE POVERTY. The poverty of the country is abundantly visible in the interior of the posadas, where every thing bespeaks the existence of wretchedness. Every where, as you approach nearer and nearer, you perceive how fatally industry has been paralysed; but if the people ever become civilized, their apathy and indolence will be shaken off with detestation. It is impossible to enter their dwellings without disgust, not altogether un- mingled with contempt. Poor and miserable they now are. Their fuel consists of a few withered plants, often of an aromatic kind, dried branches of the vine, and a little straw, which are thrust into the stove, that, flueless and chimneyless, occupies the centre of the room, smoking, like red herrings, the ragged royalists who huddle round it in cold weather. Here and there, as we advance, a few clumps of trees are discovered on the banks of the Pisuerga, contri- buting in some small degree to break up the mono- tony of the landscape, which, after all, looks as hungry as the impoverished peasants themselves. As the road approached the eminence on which Dtienas is situated, we discovered on the left one of those religious foun- dations which the Christinos, whether to their credit or no, have begun to disturb ; I mean the convent of San Isidro, where a brotherhood of Benedictines used to reside. It is no distinction to a Spanish village to say that it is gloomy and abounds in filth, — for there are very few which do not ; but Duefias, notwithstanding its pretensions to be considered the Eldana of Ptolemy, bears, in this respect, the bell from all the towns and MORE DESCRIPTION. 91 hamlets on the route. Accordmg to some of the older travellers it could once, however, boast of a good inn ; but this was so much out of the ordinary course of things, that it could not be suffered to continue, and therefore matters soon lapsed into the old channel. Nevertheless, the vine takes kindly to the hill-sides in this neighbourhood, and produces a pleasant wine, which is kept in rocky cellars excavated beneath the hill. They have, at first sight, the appearance of grottoes formed by nature ; but are, in reality, alto- gether artificial. Close to the margins of the streams, discoverable from the heights of Duefias, are several pretty strips of meadow, which enliven the view with their cheerful green. On descending from the village, we entered upon a plain of very unpromising aspect, thickly strewed with loose flints, and with scarcely a tree to hide its naked- ness ; but having proceeded about ten or twelve miles, kept in good humour by the elastic buoyancy of the air, which is generally light on barren soils, we arrived at Cabezon, where, according to report, for our expe- rience was far too limited to enable us to decide, the very best wine in all this part of Spain is produced. It is of a red colour, and extremely light. This is doubt- less to be attributed to the predominance of sand amid the clay and marl of which the hills are composed ; for, wherever the soil has these qualities, it is adapted to the cultivation of the vine, which, on the other hand, always suffers where clay predominates. Here the road again traverses the Pisuerga, over a large and fine stone bridge; and, on regaining the 92 A MERRY GHOST. general level of the great undulating plain, the elevated spires of Valladolid came in sight, glittering and ap- parently almost transparent in the sunshine. A con- siderable body of cavalry, destined for the seat of war in the north-east, was approaching in a cloud of dust. It was only at times, however, that we could tell whether they were troops, or a large herd of cattle, when the breeze had sufficient strength to blow aside the aspiring particles of silex, and bare their flashing casques and cuirasses to the sun. They passed us at a brisk trot. Both man and beast appeared to be in tolerably good condition ; but many who then looked proudly around from their prancing Andalusians, and stroked their well-smoked mustachios as they moved along, have by this time, no doubt, become food for crows among the mountains of Biscay. The approach to Valladolid, by a shady avenue half a league in length, is sufficiently striking ; but much of the interest I experienced as we drew near the gates, arose from a source wholly independent of external objects. It is celebrated in the pages of Gil Bias ; and the shade of that lively vagabond, sur- rounded by sundry of his companions of the same kidney, stood among the well-dressed men and women on the promenade outside the walls, and welcomed me to the scene of his merry exploits. The persons assem- bled on the paseo constituted, of course, a motley multitude, made up of exquisites, military and unmi- litary, priests, friars, and ladies of fashion with bas- quifia, mantilla, and fan. My eye, wandering over their countenances in search of beauty, was disap- AN OLD PATENT REVIVED. 93 pointed ; but they were light and graceful in make, and tripped along the earth as if scarcely formed to tread on it. Our hunger, however, was more than a match for our taste. So, instead of pausing to admire the ladies, which a gallant traveller would, at least, have pre- tended he had done, we urged Diego to push on to the Parador de las Diligencias, where we anticipated becoming acquainted with Valladolidian cookery. — Appetite, whetted by abstinence and fatigue, is gene- rally a lenient judge ; else I would say something in praise of our dinner, including the wine, which sparkled and seemed most excellent. At all events, we were not a little pleased with our fare ; and this, in all conscience, is enough. In other respects our hostelry was less to our liking. All the women of the establishment appeared to possess patent tongues, warranted never to wear out; and with these, put in motion by stentorian lungs, they maintained a clamour so incessant, that no ears, save those of a Spaniard, could long endure it. Besides the influx of people from the north, who looked very like soldiers in dis- guise, and of noisy cockneys from Madrid, with their insolent metropolitan tone, quite discomposed my equanimity, and made me sigh for the quiet sheep- walks about Segovia: — " O, qui me gelidis in vallibus Hsemi Sistat, et ingenti ramorum protegat umbra !" But as no demon, good or bad, appeared inclined to undertake this exploit upon the spur of the moment, I 94 THE CASTILIANS OF OLD. was fain to await the slower proceedings of Diego's mules, and, in the meantime, to smoke my cigarillo, comfort my imagination with reminiscences of Gil Bias and Dr. Sangrado, and trot about the city under the guidance of one of those hedge antiquarians, ycleped ciceroni, — I presume from their being sup- posed, from the fluency with which they romance, to be descended by a female branch from the great Roman orator. At a place, like Valladolid, where there is nothing very extraordinary, the question always is, what must we see first ? The best way, if one has no particular predilection, is to leave the matter entirely to the guide ; who, if he be lazy, will take you to the nearest wonder, and if he be vain, to that whereon he can most eloquently descant. The most remarkable thing to be seen any where in the vicinity our guide assured us was the giant, dug up in excavating the canal near the village of Sigales ; but, as two or three travellers, all credible persons, had already been at the pains of riding two good Spanish leagues to behold this Cas- tilian of old times, who had so far outgrown the ordi- nary standard, — being, at least, twenty feet high, — and found nothing but a few odd-shaped stones, which a learned and patriotic apothecary had metamorphosed, for the advantage of his village, into shin-bones and skull, we declined this excursion, and confined our curiosity to humbler objects. The next best things, — if we declined the giant, — were the public promenades, and the churches. Of the former, which are three in number, two without HOW TO MAKE A PATRIOT. 95 the walls and one within, no great deal need be said. They are carried along the banks of the Pisuerga and Esgueva, and furnished with seats and, in part, with trees, under which the men may enjoy their cigars, and the women such gossip as a country town can supply. There is, of course, no lack of churches, in some of which are found productions of art of great merit, chiefly by native artists. In the church of Las Au- gustias, which has an elegant facade adorned with Corinthian columns, we found a statue of the Virgin de las Peiias, executed in a very spirited style by Hernan- dez ; and a group, representing the Virgin, supporting the dead body of our Saviour, and close at hand the two thieves. This piece, notwithstanding the unity of the design, is by two sculptors, the thieves being by Juni, and the other figures by Hernandez. The cloister of San Benito, a spacious and tasteful edifice, contains an altar, which it is surprising should have escaped the French : it is constructed in a fantastic taste, but of precious materials, surmounted by a tabernacle of silver, and approached by gilded steps. No one can have passed through Valladolid, since the commencement of the present war, without being struck, and indeed somewhat amused, by the awkward embryo soldiers got up here for the purpose of quelling the Carlists ; this being one of the great military focuses of the liberal party. Any day in the week you may behold a small host of newly caught peasants, who, under the hands of drill-sergeants, are undergoing the process of being converted into heroes on the new promenade, where they are cuffed and pummelled into 96 VAllIETY OP COSTUME. a respect for the perpendicular by men to whom the power of inflicting blows evidently affords consider- able satisfaction, and to the infinite edification of sundry white-toothed urchins, collected there by the uncouth sound of the constitutional drum. We were amused by the appearance of the place, no less than of the recruits. It exhibits signs of the rise of a feeling, new in Spain,— a tendency towards im- provement, — and much pains has been bestowed upon the promenade in order to render it agreeable to the people, by planting trees, erecting statues and foun- tains, and placing seats whereon they may smoke, or talk. The ultimate boundary of the enclosure con- sists of convents, in which a large proportion of the peasants' earnings used to find its way in other times. No doubt it gives the incipient soldier some satis- faction in the midst of his drilling to reflect, that the government for which he is about to hazard his life, promises to protect him from the old contributions levied by monks, whose dwellings he sees around, and to recognise his right to be treated henceforward as a citizen and a man. The conscripts themselves very strongly resembled Fal staffs ragged regiment, with which, had he not got out of the habit, he would have blushed to march through Coventry. Of all countries in Europe one finds here, perhaps, the most scarecrow population. Sleeves, skirts, and bodies, of all colours, appeared to have jumped together from opposite ends of the kingdom. No man there had been measured for any part of the coat he wore. The children of Abraham MILITARY QUALITIES. 97 had collected them, partly, I believe, from gibbets ; and, after issuing from their bags, they had under- gone a palingenesia, which gave them the aspect of cast adder-skins in spring. The men, disguised by this species of masquerade dress, wanted nothing but the ethical and metaphysical elements of good soldiers. Bodies of a very respectable make they possessed ; and this being the case, it has seemed wonderful to many writers that they should prove so inefficient on the field of battle; though, in reality, the military character is far more the fruit of education and poli- tical institutions than any moral quality observable in society. Give the Spaniard something worth con- tending for, and he will fight as he ought. Till then his valour will be fitful and uncertain, the courage of a mere animal, impelled by coarse contentional instincts ; to-day powerful and vehement, to-morrow panic-stricken, feeble, the sport of accident. The correctness of these views is proved by the frequency of desertion, and the facility with which the priests pervert the minds of men at first well inten- tioned towards the constitution ; for it appears to be a fact acknowledged, that numbers of conscripts col- lected by the government, and transported at consi- derable expense to the neighbourhood of the seat of war, constantly go over to the other side. Having exhausted the sights of Valladolid, many of which the reader will gladly excuse me for not inflicting on him, we took the road to Segovia. The country immediately visible on leaving the city, makes no pretensions whatever to be akin to the picturesque. 98 IGNORANCE NOT ALWAYS BLISS. It is almost as flat as the Milanese, and would remind the traveller of that rich rice and pasture land, but for the laziness and ignorance of the inhabitants, which effectually prevent all comparison. Looking across the plain, our view was bounded by a chain of white hills, close to one of the angles of which stands the town of Simancas, near the junction of the Pisuerga with the Duero. Here, in 938, v/as gained that great victory over the Moors, which, according to tradition, gave rise to the Voto de Santiago. Philip the Second deposited the archives of the kingdom in the castle of Simancas, and there they remain to this time, daily open to the public till two o'clock in the afternoon. Not designing however to write the his- tory of Spain, we did not interrupt our journey to examine them. After traversing a hill of no great elevation, from which, looking back, we could command a good view over the plain of Valladolid, the road descended into an extremely sandy tract of forest land, where our movements were painfully slow. Our quarters, this night, were at Hornillos, a place unknown, I believe, to history and romance, but prettily situated on the river Aldaya, whose banks are dotted picturesquely with small detached woods, between which, while moving along, the eye caught glimpses of many sweet pastoral scenes. Continuing our journey up the valley of the Eresma, through a country of agreeable aspect, we traversed the skirts of several pine forests, in one of which is a grand monastery of Bernardines. Tliis whole district. IDLENESS VERY CATCHING. 99 with exception of the woods, is rich in corn and pasturage, in vast flocks of black sheep and droves of brood mares, and the banks of the river display a beautiful canopy of verdure. Olmedo, the town we next arrived at, is situated on an eminence, and commands an extensive view over the circumjacent plains. This place, which possesses seven parish churches, and was formerly surrounded by walls, now in ruins, has been rendered celebrated by being mentioned in Gil Bias. Its principal church contains, we were told, — for we did not stop to look at them, — several good pictures. Perhaps, however, they may owe their reputation to the indolence of travellers, who, like ourselves, have wanted courage to devote an hour to their examination. The only branch of industry that still flourishes at Olmedo is brick-making, which, however, is not sufficient to prevent the population from rapidly diminishing. We bad still, according to Diego, eleven leagues of road to get over before we could reach Segovia ; and the country to be traversed he would, though highly patriotic, acknowledge a man had better pass over asleep than awake. There was nothing to see, nothing to admire, and, peradventure, nothing to eat. But this, after all, was nothing new in Spain ; and we pre- ferred keeping awake, as long as the dreamy motion of his mules would permit, to see what sort of country a Spaniard would confess to be bad in his native land. For our part, we found it much better than many other tracts that bear a superior character ; and learned, on entering New Castile, to look back even H 2 100 SANCHO AND HIS TIMES. upon this part of our journey as picturesque and interesting, compared with the threadbare deserts by which we were there surrounded. No doubt the country is extremely sandy and open, but from time to time, more particularly in the vici- nity of the rivers, the road lay through unextensive pine forests, which, at least, kept up the appearance of verdure. Signs too of much greater fertility than is to be fovmd in New Castile on every side meet the eye, in the more dense population, and frequent villages filled with rude plenty. In other respects, there certainly was very little on this road that could be termed remarkable. We observed, however, at Villa de Santa Cruz, that the celebrated cow's tail, in which the hostess of the posada stuck her combs, — a fact noticed by former travellers, — had not yet yielded to the march of intellect. There it still was, primitive as in the days of Sancho Panza, when, as a humorous traveller has observed, it was of such service in fur- nishing the barber with a false beard. In spite, however, of the cow's tail, and the delec- table reminiscences it awakened, it must be confessed that the road to Segovia did really seem tedious. It was in vain that we invoked the shade of Sancho, and of that other inimitable companion, Gil Bias ; all we could do sufficed not to put to flight the ennui caused by the monotony of nature. At length, when our patience was nearly at the last gasp, Diego exclaimed that he could discover Segovia in the distance ; and looking in the direction in which he pointed, we saw the towers of the castle and the spires of the cathedral. REMARKABLE SCENIC EFFECT. 101 This was enough to refresh our imagination. We forgot the fatigues of the way, fh^ slowness of the^^ perverse mules, the treeless, duil,: iJiiHvi'fied laftcj^:* scape, as in fancy we listened to> the .prisQia^p^iiv.tkp- tower who amused himself in bis- s^oritlid^ Ivitli -scraps » of verse : — " Alas ! a year of pleasure passes like a fleeting breeze ; but a moment of misfortune seems an age of pain ! " Ay de mi ! un afio felice Parece un soplo ligero ; Pero sin dicha un istante Es uu siglo de tormento. But the approach to Segovia was no doubt intended, by those good old road-makers who contrived it, to serve as a substitute for purgatory. From the clear- ness of the view you obtain of the church-spires, &c., you imagine your journey completed, and your mus- tachios within reach of stews and garlic. But you are mistaken. The labyrinth of Daedalus is before you. One minute the old castle, frowning on the crest of a rugged precipice, appears on the left; anon it is in front, then on the right ; and, presently, whisk round goes the road, and you seem trudging sullenly back towards Olmedo. Nature, however, has put on an agreeable aspect ; for, in steering onward, you plunge into a sweet valley, which a crooked brook runs sportively through, and clothes with verdure. Here, if landscapes have any power to soothe the pangs of hunger, the traveller may meet with something to admire ; but, for our part, we will candidly allow that the apparition of a good omelette, or stew, or mine 102 ARRIVAL AT SEGOVIA. host's roasted cat,* would have proved more than a match for any scene in Christendom. In this humour, sulky and savage as Scotchmen before breakfast, we at length found our way into Segovia, and appeased our apJDetite witli a ragout, which we pronounced the most delicious we had ever eaten. Indeed it was not till we had dined, taken our siesta, and rambled a little way from the town, that we noticed the broken, uneven summit we had as- cended on which it is built, — such had been the one absorbing topic of our morning's fast. It now scarcely wore so wild and gloomy a look as on our approach ; but we found the streets narrow, crooked, and dirty, lined with miserable wooden houses, which do not appear to have improved by their vicinity to a great cloth manufactory, — itself by no means flourishing. But the people claim the merit of being the best feeders of sheep, and shearers of the finest wool, — a claim not easy to establish ; for as the flocks, as we shall show, are wholly beyond the operation of the vagrant act, wandering by ancient prescription, and not bred in their domain, it is difficult to see on what ground the Segovians should boast pre-eminence in this respect. * Alluding to a passage in the history of Lazarillo de Tormes, written by Mendoza, from whom the identical cat was stolen by Le Sage, who makes his host present it in lieu of game to that prince of pleasant vagabonds — the renowned Gil Bias. CHAPTER VI. SEGOVIA. Antiquities of Segovia — Hercules — Form of the City — the Eresma and the Clamores — the Roman Aqueduct — Scenery about Segovia — Urban Groupes — Romans and Spaniards — A Digression on Morals — Anecdote — Defence of auricular Confes- sion — the Alcazar — the Prisoner in Gil Bias — Effigies of Kings — Musulman Prisoners — the Mint — Merino Sheep — Effect of Climate on Wool — Migratory Flocks — Shawl Goats — Wander- ing Shepherds — the Mesta — Origin and Regulations — Pastoral Life — Real and Poetical — Bucolics of Spain. Spanish antiquarians love to lose themselves in the darkness of remote ages in search of the founder of a city ; and those who have undertaken in this way to render Segovia illustrious, are satisfied with nothing less than Hercules. Others, imagining themselves possessed of more precise information, contradict this opinion ; but without giving us another founder half so good as Hercules, who may, in fact, have pitched his tent — if he possessed such a convenience — some- where near this spot, when he was beating up Geryon's quarters. However, ** Non nostra est tanta componere lites !" So we leave the question to Don Galeano, who, when he shall have pacified Spain, and shown how much 104 INGENUITY OF THE GREEKS. better a queen is than a republic, may amuse himself with shivering a steel pen for or against the son of Alcmena. Strabo, who is at least as fanciful as he is philoso- phical, compares the whole Peninsula to an ox~hide, — €OiK€ yap €vp(T7} Kocra jWev i^riKoq aiio T-rjq icme^ocq iitt rriv €0), and they who pursue the same thread of resemblances have discovered that Segovia is very much like a ship. There is some foundation for the idea. Perched like an ancient galley upon a vast rock, with its stern east- ward and its prow pointing towards the west, it occu- pies a low ridge between two hollows, and seems to be only waiting for sufficient water to right itself, and float down the valley. In each of the deep ravines that flank the city there is a stream ; in one the Eresma, in the other the Clamores, which have their confluence a little to the north of Segovia. The former river, which is spanned by five handsome bridges, and has its banks clothed with wood, formerly bore the name of Arava, whence the inhabitant sof these v alleys were of old denominated Arevaci. There is some excuse for one's ideas running, at Segovia, into an antiquarian channel, its chief claim to be noticed by a traveller consisting in that rare relic of the old world, which enables its citizens to enjoy their coffee and lemonade, without every morn- ing performing a pilgrimage to the Eresma or Clamores for wherewith to make it : — I mean the Aqueduct. It commences in the hills near the road from St. Ilde- fonso, and runs nearly parallel with it a considerable way through the suburbs. At first the arches are, of WATEll WITHOUT A CARRIEII. 105 course, low ; but, as it proceeds farther and farther from the spring, they assume gradually a loftier span, until, in the Plaza del Azogueio, at the foot of the walls, they tower to above a hundred feet in height. Here, indeed, the architect's admirable taste suggested the propriety of a double tier of arches one above the other, to obviate even the appearance of weakness which the work might otherwise have put on. And how beautiful it now appears, more particularly from the old cross near the bridge at the northern entrance to the city, while the shadows of morning from the old tower and cypress-crested hill on the east wrap the bases of the piers in shadow, and give them the look of springing up out of water, or the mists of a mirage. Just peeping above its summit, we discover the spires of the churches, while, excepting one cluster of dwel- lings near the reservoir, the whole city lies overspan- ned and commanded by its proud line of arches, extending to the length of two thousand four hundred feet. The country visible above the aqueduct, over which, as we gazed, the wind was wafting slight volumes of smoke from the warm and comfortable kitchen of some Segovian alderman, would have defied Claude to make a landscape out of it. Nothing short of poetry could cast the mantle of romance over its weather- beaten, brown, unsightly, visage ; lofty without gran- deur, sufficiently undulating to lose the character of a table-land, too wide, sprawling, unambitious to be a mountain. A thunder-storm, with a sufficiency of forked lightning, and masses of black clouds piled up 106 MODERN CONVERSAZIONI. in Alps towards the empyrean, might have done some- thing to banish its insipidity ; but there was nothing but placid sunshine, and one cannot enjoy all kinds of good things at once. If we would have pictures, they must be domestic ones, and we must search for them in the city. We therefore descended from our rocky stroll along the hill-sides to the foot of the aqueduct, to study the characteristic groupes composed of mules, sleek and wanton, ragged Spaniards, chattering old market- women, boys, and nondescript idlers, which chance congregates in that part of the town every day in the year. One point in this long sweep of beauty particu- larly struck us, and the artist has represented its most striking phasis. It is where one of the great streets of Segovia, running from south to north, passes through two arches under the aqueduct, and has on one side, a cluster of private dwellings, on the other a church, where in a short piazza supported on horse-shoe arches, we see manifest traces of the Moor. It is easy to perceive in the modern and ancient structures the difference between the Spaniard and the Roman. The works of the former, frail, uncouth, fantastic as his own character, appear designed but to house for a brief space the dwarf-minded subjects of a tottering monarchy ; those of the latter, erected under a prince who appeared but the chief of the republic, seem formed, in their simple and severe grandeur, to wrestle for ever with the elements. And should the aqueduct perish, and the city along with it for lack of water, the municipal government will he alone to GRATITUDE OF POSTERITY. 107 blame. Creeping plants, climbing about its arches, twisting themselves about the piers, and drooping beautifully from the moist parapet above, improve, no doubt, the picturesque features of this remnant of the taste of republican Eome, but they injure while they adorn. For the roots, insinuating themselves between the stones, whither they will be followed by air and moisture, introduce the first principles of decay, and, if not in time removed, will end by bringing this splendid monument to the ground. Meanwhile, however, the Segovian sips the cool water it conveys to him, and cares not a farthing for posterity, upon the good old consideration that pos- terity has never cared for him. He might, no doubt, add, *'and never will care!" For posterity, whatever may be the flattering unction which we lay to our souls, will just remember and bless those, and those only, who, during their lives, have been careful to leave behind them something to promote the comfort, amusement, or instruction of said posterity. But Spain is the worst place in the world to mo- ralize in, — except upon the principle of lucus a non lucendo ; for it has no morality, or so very little as not to be worth mentioning. They do not govern them- selves here by the laws of ethics, but by custom, or according to the rules they can suck out of the pith of old proverbs, mostly antediluvian, and just suited to the world as it existed before the flood. The great get their morality from court, and the people get their morality from the great ; from which a tolerably good idea may be formed of the progress of the virtues 108 TRAITS OF CONFESSION. in Spain. A late facetious and very profound tra- veller, seems to be of opinion that a sound practical code of ethics is disseminated from the confessional; in proof of which he tells a single anecdote, which admitting it to be true, proves nothing beyond this, — that the curate in question happened to be an honest man. The story is somewhat long, but as it is connected with an important subject, we will beg leave to listen, with the reader, while the good-natured traveller repeats it again, — for it must be a standard anecdote in his common-place book. " At the same moment that the city (Valladolid) broke full upon our view, we came in sight of a very remarkable object, placed at the junction of the high road to Madrid with that by which we were approaching. It was the right arm of a man nailed to the extremity of a tall post, which had been removed from the body a little above the shoulder, bringing away part of it. It was shrivelled by exposure to the weather, so as to lose something of its original size, and the colour had become livid and sallow. The hand, the skin of which resembled a glove, grasped the hilt of a dagger, the arm being raised and contracted, as if to deal a death-blow. This in some measure set forth the cause of this horrid exposure, which was farther explained to me by a shepherd, who happened to pass with his flock, and whose peaceful occupation gave him a right to express becoming horror at the crimes which the owner of that hand had committed. He had been a robber, and had murdered many of his fellow-men ; but that ARGUMENT PRO AND CON. 109 would not have been enough to entitle him to such a distinction, or indeed, to death at all. He had raised the sacrilegious hand, now exposed to detestation, against a minister of God. The robber had gone to confess himself to the curate of a village in the neigh- bourhood of Valladolid, who, being shocked at the recital of so many and such atrocious crimes, refused absolution entirely, or proposed such conditions of penance as the sinner was imwilling to fulfil. In a fit of rage he stabbed the uncomplying curate to the heart. " Such an offence excited universal horror ; the mur- derer was pursued, taken, convicted, and condemned, and the full rigour of the law adjudged to him. He was therefore quartered, and his limbs distributed to be thus exhibited in the most exposed situation, as an example of terror to such as might hereafter be tempted to raise an impious hand against a priest. Pepe told me that he had seen the limb thus exposed, at each successive visit he had made to Valladolid during the last five months. The friar, who seemed to be highly delighted with the way the robber's crime had been requited to him, remarked, that the limbs must all be taken down and collected for Christian burial before Palm Sunday, as no exhibition of that sort could continue during the Holy Week. " The conscientious denial of absolution on the part of the murdered curate, may serve as an answer of no little force to such fanatical revilers of the Catholic church, as denounce confession as a fosterer of crime." Now, if the reader considers this an answer to such 110 ROMAN AQUEDUCT. as regard auricular confession unfavourable to morality, all that can be said is, that we most vehemently differ from him. In our opinion it is no answer to any thing. On the contrary, it would appear that the murderer, well acquainted with the practice of his church, and the general leniency of ministers, fully expected absolution, and, up till then, had probably met with no one who refused it to him. At finding a curate of impracticable conscience — such as he had probably never met before, — he was therefore doubly enraged, and consummated the guilt which brought him to tardy punishment. But this is running a long way from Segovia and the aqueduct. This great public work, though neglected and dis- figured, continues to effect the purpose for which it "was erected, and, after a lapse of about eighteen hundred years, is said to leak in no part of its extent. It is built of rough freestone. The piers, or pillars, on which the water-course rests, are six feet eleven inches wide in front, and nine feet four inches deep. They have also, — and this is the worst part of the design, — something like a cornice projecting at various heights from the shaft. The effect would have been nobler had they sprung from a low pedestal up to the turn of the arch, apparently in one unbroken piece. There is a sort of deep torus above, where the casing seems slightly to project over the perpendicular. No cement has been used in its erection. But there are in Segovia other things besides the aqueduct which merit attention from the traveller ; and among these the principal, undoubtedly, is the Alcazar, A FINE PROSPECT LOST. Ill or Castle, which is situated in one of the finest possible positions, on a rock commanding an extensive view of the open country. This, in fact, is the prospect of which Don Andrea de Tordesillas gives Gil Bias so flattering an account on the first day of his imprison- ment. ** You will see from your window," says he, *' the flowery banks of the Eresma, and the delightful valley which extends from the feet of the mountains that separate the two Castiles as far as Coca. I know that at first you will not be very sensible of such a fine prospect ; but when the violence of your grief shall be mellowed by time into a soft melancholy, you will take pleasure in making an excursion with your eyes over such agreeable objects." Honest Gil, indeed, formed a different opinion of the landscape; but this, probably, was because, as he himself conjectures, he had not arrived at that sweet melancholy which dresses up objects in its own way. " I got up to air my room," says he, " by opening the window, and surveyed the country of which I remembered Mr. Keeper had given such a fine description. But I could find nothing to justify what he said ; the Eresma, which I imagined was at least equal to the Tagus, appeared to be no more than a rivulet, its flowery banks were bedecked with the nettle and thistle only, and the pretended delightful valley presented nothing, to my view, but lands for the most part barren and uncultivated." But this was turning round the tapestry, to look at the wrong side ; for, in fact, the Eresma, which washes the foot of the precipice, is a very pretty stream, and the whole city, extended on either hand along the 112 OLD TIMES. brow of the hill, appears magnificent, as viewed from hence. The declivity, too, is woody, and the whole sweep of the river's banks presents a fine succession of pastoral landscapes, while the background is composed of the snowy mountains and vast gloomy forests of St. Ildefonso. Before the great outward tower, to- wards the town, there is a spacious court celebrated by Le Sage, who has rendered the Alcazar a classic building throughout Europe. The remainder of the edifice forms an antique palace, seldom inhabited but by state-prisoners since the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella, who thought far more favourably of the prospect than Gil Bias, and spent much of their time here. We still find several superb halls in the castle, adorned in a half barbarous taste with a profusion of gilding. Ranged along the cornice of the great saloon are the eflfigies of all the kings of Spain, seated in state; which must doubtless be likenesses, as no artist's imagination could have given birth to such a series of ill-looking elfs. Formerly, when Spain had a navy on the Mediter- ranean which could cope with the Barbary pirates, or make a show of doing so, and bring home a few Mu- sulman prisoners to gratify the orthodox hatred of the people against all nations of a diflferent creed, one court of this ancient palace was appropriated as a prison to a number of Algerine reis^ or ship- captains, whose crews were kept hard at work in the arsenal of Carthagena. These captives constituted a chief part of the attraction of the Alcazar, and are so associated with the idea of it, that, though they are no longer to THE ALCAZAR. 113 be seen, we must beg the reader's permission to de- scribe, in the words of a former traveller, what manner of men they were. " These Turks," says a graphic and vigorous writer, '' are very handsome, portly figures, with clean looks and well- combed beards : they are well treated and left to themselves. Most of their time is spent in conversation, walking up and down a long gallery, smoking, and playing at chess, except when they go down at stated hours to fetch water for their own use. Confinement apart, their lives pass in ease and tran- quillity. As soon as they saw us walking about the court, they immediately knew us to be Englishmen, most of them having been several times at Gibraltar, and being well acquainted with the British character of face : it being the hour for fetching water, and the door open, they flocked about us with great demon- strations of joy, and tears of pleasure starting into every eye. They kissed our hands, and called us * Ingles, bueno bueno amigos,' over and over again, with difficulty prevailing upon themselves to leave us to go about their work at the well. My man, by our orders, followed one of the principal men among them, and in lingua Franca^ which indeed is the common jumble of tongues he made use of at all times, gave him an account of the Spanish defeat before Algiers. They had heard of the preparations for the expedition, and had been much cast down with the thoughts of it, but had begun to obtain some hopes of a miscarriage, as many months had elapsed since they knew of the departure of the fleet, and not 114 THE MINT. a syllable concerning its success had dropped from any of their guards. The venerable old Musulman raised his hands to heaven, and seemed to look upon the pains and irksomeness of slavery to be more than repaid by the exquisite sensations he enjoyed in this happy moment. When his informant added that the Algerines had lost a great number of camels, the Turk turned upon him with a ' What talk ye to me of camels ? Had they killed thousands of them, there would still remain enough, and the beasts themselves must be proud of dying to save their country.' After shaking them by the hand, and leaving a pre- sent to buy tobacco, we took our leave of our allies, who followed us down the portico with longing eyes and a thousand benedictions ; which, if their prophet has any jurisdiction over the roads, will preserve us from over-turns and broken limbs." Immediately below the Alcazar is the mint, a spa- cious building, erected in the fifteenth century by Henry the Fourth, and in great part rebuilt by Philip the Second. At this most ancient place of coinage in the kingdom, the mint formerly produced gold and silver; but of late years copper only — ^brought hither from the mine of Rio Tinto near Seville — has been coined here. At present, I believe, the works are sel- dom put in requisition, though the hydraulic engines, by means of which the operations of the mint were carried on, still exist. They are supplied with water from the Eresma; and strangers may see them by making application to the proper authorities. An opinion has long prevailed, though called in SHEPHERDS AND FLOCKS. 115 question by some writers, that the country round Segovia is the best adapted of any in the kingdom for the feeding of the celebrated merino sheep. Not having examined all the down and undulating open districts in Spain, I am not prepared to support or contradict this opinion; but of this I am well con- vinced, that these high, bare, and little fertile lands, not unlike the great downs of Sussex between Brighton and Steyning, are admirably well calculated for sheep - feeding. The grass in this, and similar districts, is peculiarly fine, and free from weeds and all admix- ture of coarse rank plants, which sheep abhor. It is short, also, and interspersed with several kinds of diminutive aromatics, among which I particularly noticed the wild thyme, whose fragrance, when trodden upon, fills the atmosphere.* According to the most authentic accounts, the shawl goats of Tibet thrive in their own country upon downs exactly like these ; where they might probably be more advantage- ously introduced than on the French landes^ or any other district in Europe. In the rich pastures of northern India and Affghanistan, — or at least in Kashmer, — their hair becomes coarse and long, and the animal itself degenerates, as it has already, I * Swinburne, generally a judicious and well-informed traveller, considers the prejudice in favour of the Segovian downs to be altogether unfounded ; since, according to him, the sheep owe whatever superiority they possess to their migratory habits. But he had not been careful, while at Segovia, to inform himself cor- rectly on this point ; for the flocks in this part of the country, as well as in several districts of Aragon and Estremadura, have always been stationary. I 2 116 SPANISH SHEEP. believe, in France. But though the sun of Segovia, and even its general climate, might prove less genial than those of Tibet, the shawl goat would undoubt- edly, I think, naturalize more rapidly here than any where else west of the Indus, with the exception, perhaps, of the mountains of the Druzes in Lebanon. To return, however, to the Spanish sheep. In Biscay, and the Asturias, the breed is exceedingly diminutive, and its condition generally so bad that, during our wars in the Peninsula, the common soldiers often refused to take a whole sheep as an equivalent for nine pounds of mutton. These are the animals which the black eagle of the Pyrenees so frequently pounces upon, and bears off to his young. He would find a sheep of the ordinary breed, or even of the merino, somewhat too weighty. It is a fact well known to gourmands, that the flesh of wild animals is much sweeter than that of tame ones of the same species, which arises from two causes : the superior exercise, and the greater variety of food within the reach of the former. Now, what- ever improves the flavour of the flesh, must at the same time improve the health, and with it the coating of the animal ; a truth which possibly may have been early discovered by the shepherds or great sheep- owners of Spain, where the production of fine wool has been from very remote times an object of great solicitude to those connected with rural economy. — Hence the institution of the mesta^^ which Laborde * Laborde, however, attributes it to accident, which is often indeed the mother of useful inventions. THE MESTA. 117 has explained with the greatest correctness to mean, in its general acceptation, a mixture of two or more sorts of grain, equivalent to the English word maslin, and by extension, the uniting of numerous flocks belonging to different proprietors into one collective body, which does not remain stationary in any parti- cular district, but migrates with the seasons to several parts of the kingdom. ^ By these means the sheep enjoy something like the freedom of the wild state, together with that constant change in their food and air, which, when not too violent, is beneficial to all animals. Something also is attributed to their being kept constantly in the open air ; but Laborde, generally a sensible and cau- tious writer, seems strongly inclined, on the strength of a few imperfect experiments, to call the truth of this opinion in question. He doubtless had not sufficiently reflected on the peculiarities of soil and climate in those cantons, where the wool of the sta- tionary sheep is equal to that of the migratory ones ; or he would have been convinced that, although the herbage of some small districts, such for example as that of Benasqua and of the Partido d'Alharrazin^ may nourish the finest wool, all the merinos in Spain could not be fed in them, and would certainly degene- rate if made stationary elsewhere. Change only, and that constant and properly regulated, can ever keep up the fineness of the wool ; and it is therefore to be hoped that, with certain limitations imperatively called for, the mesta will be still continued in Spain. The society, or association, to which the travelling 118 ORIGIN OP THE CUSTOM. flocks belong, consists of the nobles, ecclesiastics, and other rich proprietors, whose united sheep are called merinos, or tras humantes. By some, the origin of the custom has been referred to that age in which the great plague ravaged Spain, and carried off two-thirds of its population ; upon which, the few persons who survived took possession of the unowned lands, but not being able to bring them into cultivation, con- verted the greater portion into pasturage. What was then the effect of a national calamity, in the end became itself the cause of much greater evil, perpetu- ating, long after the necessity for it had ceased, the pastoral life in a large portion of the country, where the sheep may literally be said to have eaten up the peasantry and the poor. This is particularly the case in Estremadura, and the kingdom of Leon, where people possess immense grazing estates without any title to them; a practice which calls loudly for an agrarian law, to regulate the amount to which persons shall be allowed to plunder the community. The term 7nesta, as I have already observed, signi- fies an united flock belonging to many proprietors, which in general consists of about ten thousand sheep, though sometimes the number is far greater. Over each of the small separate flocks, the union of which constitutes the mesta, is placed an ofliicer called a mayoral, who not only keeps watch over the shep- herds and directs their movements, but is also re- quired to be possessed of considerable experience in the management of sheep, as with him rests the choice of pasturage, and the treatment of such diseases as MODE OF LIFE. 119 these animals are liable to. His salary is consider- able, and he is allowed a horse to ride on, with fifty subordinate shepherds, divided into four classes, to each man of whom, in addition to their wages, which vary from one pound eleven shillings to eight shillings per month, a daily ration of two pounds of bread is regularly allowed. A small sum, under the name of travelling expenses, is presented to each shepherd on the departure and return of the mesta, besides the privilege of keeping a few goats and sheep, which he may call his own, but can make no use of, since the wool and hair belong to the sheep-owners, and he can neither sell nor remove them. All the advantage he derives from them appears to be the milk. The number of persons employed in attending these migratory flocks is supposed to amount, in the whole kingdom, to upwards of fifty thousand; but since the number of the flocks has very greatly varied at different times, the same, no doubt, must be said of the shepherds. In the sixteenth century the mi- gratory sheep are said to have amounted to seven millions ; but, about the beginning of the next century, in the reign of Philip the Third, they had decreased to about two millions and a half. From some cause or another, the number was again greatly augmented towards the close of that century, when they amounted to four millions. One hundred years later they were estimated at five millions ; and at present perhaps, out of the nineteen millions of sheep existing in Spain, something less than a third may be migratory. Having passed the winter in the plains of Estrema- 120 ANNUAL TRAVELS AND MIGRATION. dura, Leon, Old and New Castile, and Andalusia, the flocks are put in motion about the end of April or the beginning of May, taking their route towards the mountains, and in general moving as far north as Aragon, Navarre, and Biscay. Many large flocks are pastured in the mountains about Segovia, Soria, and Buytrago, where it is supposed that the migratory sheep could not endure the cold of winter, though the native breeds stand it extremely well. During their sojourn in the mountains, the sheep have a quantity of salt frequently administered to them, as medicine, to counteract the effects of the herbage they there meet with. The salt being distributed over large flat stones, the sheep are driven thither, and suffered to eat what quantity they please; but on these days care is taken that they do not graze on calcareous soils, but on argillaceous, where they appear to feed with the eagerness of a Madrid gourmand. Towards the close of July, the ewes and rams, hitherto kept apart, are allowed to be together. In the course of September the backs and loins of the sheep are rubbed with ruddle dissolved in water, a practice for which different reasons have been assigned, none perhaps at all approaching the true one ; some ima- gining that the ochre, blending with the oily matter of the fleece, performs the same office as the oil dis- tributed by birds over their feathers at the approach of rain, turning off and protecting them from the wet; while others conceive the earth designed to absorb the superabundant perspiration, and thus prevent the wool from becoming coarse and harsh. ANTIQUITY OP THE MESTA. 121 Towards the close of September, the temperature of the mountams being now considered too cool and inclement, the flocks are once more put in motion, and turning their faces southward, descend into the low country, and spread themselves over the warm plains of Estramadura, Andalusia, and Leon. A similar practice prevailed in old Greece, where much greater care was taken to protect the fine- fleeced sheep from the weather, from thorns, dirt, &c. In most cases, the migratory flocks are conducted to the same pastures where they had grazed the pre- ceding winter, and where the greater number of them had been yeaned. The vast flocks of Central Asia, and the Arabian Peninsula are, of course, migratory, like their owners; and, unless the conjecture of the native writers, given above, can be supported on better authority than has hitherto been adduced, I should certainly be inclined to attribute the migratory habits of the Spanish shepherds to ideas and habits intro- duced by the Arabs. In the month of May, during their journey towards the mountains, the operation of sheep -shearing takes place. This, in Spain, is a business of immense importance, from the large scale on which it is con- ducted, and the ceremonies which precede and attend it. Among them it holds the same rank as the harvest or vintage in other countries; and the shepherds, of course, have an interest in religiously preserving the ancient "customs, in other respects so congenial with the season of the year. The shearing is carried on in spacious buildings, called esquileos, capable of con- 122 SHEEP-SHEARING. taming flocks of from fifty to sixty thousand. Feasts, songs, and a kind of Saturnalian revels, in which both proprietors and shepherds join, accompany the proceedings; and none seem serious excepting the sheep, that from the noise around them appear to entertain strong apprehensions of being eaten, as Spaniards seldom grow obstreporous but when they are going to dinner, or to dispatch an enemy. The workmen engaged in this pastoral occupation, which is very offensive though it tells very well in poetry, are divided into a number of classes, each of which vindicates to itself some particular branch of the business. One thousand ewes afford employment to about one hundred and twenty-five persons ; while the same number of wethers having, to use the shep- herd's own phrase, " more of the devil in them," require to be kept in order by at least two hundred men. Each animal yields three, or, according to some reports, four kinds of wool, more or less fine, the difference depending on the part of the body from which it is taken. The females, as among mankind, are most finely clad ; and their clothing, moreover, is most scanty, the fleeces of three wethers being equal in weight to those of five ewes, whose whole coat does not exceed five pounds. The sheep having been properly robbed of their warm jackets, the wool is collected in bales, and either conveyed to the several sea-ports for exporting, or, especially if designed for native use, to certain places in Castile called washing-stations. Of these, one of the most considerable in the kingdom is in PROCESSES AFTER SHEARING. 123 the neighbourhood of this city ; but our visit having been made in autumn, the account I give rests on the authority of others. The wool is transported hither in flocks or clotted tufts, just as severed from the sheep, in which state it is delivered to the apartadores, who immediately make a separation of the wools of different qualities. Practice has conferred upon these men so quick a perception, that they will at first sight decide from what part of the body any flock of wool has been cut. When the division has been made, the several kinds are spread upon hurdles to dry, and pre- vious to their being washed they are again exposed, in a scattered state, to the sun and air, and also well beaten, to dislodge all such foreign particles as may adhere to them. When thoroughly washed and cleansed from all impurity, a separation again takes place ; and that which is clotted with dirt, and judged unfit to be retained among the wools of better quality, is carefully set aside, and having been sold, the produce is appropriated to the very pious purpose of having masses chaimted for the souls of the dead. The mo- tive is commendable, but the proceeds might doubtless be better employed, were it only in buying a few changes of clean linen for some of her Catholic ma- jesty's shirtless subjects. That some change in the system is required no one can doubt; but how far the regulations of the mesta may yet be modified and improved, remains to be seen. Whatever is carried on during a number of succes- sive centuries, must of necessity be regulated by certain rules and customs. This is the case with the migra- 124 MORE PARTICULARS. tions of the mesta ; and the reader will perceive, from the spirit of those ordinances, how completely the interests of the many are sacrificed to those of the few. These aristocratic sheep, on the way to their villas on themomitains, or in returning hack to winter quarters, have the right to pass unmolested over the pastures and commons belonging to the villages situated on their road ; and, like a cloud of locusts, too frequently make hare the landscape as far as their ravages extend. They are not, indeed, allowed to roam at large, like so many bulls of Siva, over the cultivated lands ; nevertheless, the proprietors of all such estates as lie in their way are constrained to leave for them a path of about eighty or ninety yards in breadth. As might be supposed, the rate of their movements varies according to circumstances. In traversing such pastures as they are permitted to denude entirely, they rarely perform more than five or six miles per day ; but in the intermediate spaces, where they must generally march fasting, they are said sometimes to walk full seventeen miles in that time. The whole extent of their journey, which they complete in about five weeks, may be estimated at between five and six hundred miles. It is not of course to be supposed that in the rich plains, where these vagrant flocks pass the winter, they are allowed to feed gratis, as on the steppes of Tartary, or o'ases of the Arabian deserts. But, though some price is paid, the landed proprietors have no voice in fixing it, as the sheep, in general, belong to the nobles, clergy, and their connexions, in whom this oppressive LAWS OF THE MESTA. 125 custom is still recognised. Some absurd enactments, called the '' Laws of the Mesta," have from time to time been passed, as circumstances have stuck their spurs into the flanks of Spain's legislative genius ; but it is questionable whether Lucretius's god, Chance, would not have regulated matters more wisely. For those ''laws" were originally enacted by the persons most interested in perpetuating abuses, — that is, the proprietors of the flocks ; notwithstanding which they received the sanction of many kings of Spain, having been first approved and confirmed by Charles in 1 544. To administer these '' laws," which do great credit to the high and chivalrous character of Spain, a par- ticular tribunal, called the " Honourable Council of the Mesta," has been established. This court, over which a member of the great council of Castile pre- sides, consists of four judges, denominated alcaides mayores entree/adores^ each of whom has an exche- quer, with an alguasil mayor ^ or escheator. All the privileges and rights of the mesta are under the juris- diction of this court, which levies upon the shepherds and their flocks parcage, pontage, and other tolls; settle such Arcadian disputes and quarrels as may arise among the shepherds ; regulate the route which the flocks are to take in their journey to and from the mountains; determine whatever occurs on the pas- sage ; in short, manage despotically the whole con- cerns of the mesta. But as they are not always within reach, a power of commitment has been entrusted to the flock-proprietors, and even to the shepherds them- selves; a powder which it was easy to foresee they 126 SPECIAL PRIVILEGES. would certainly abuse. For, not only do they decide in what concerns the members of their own body, which might perhaps be considered quite sufficient, they have the pleasant privilege of citing before the mesta persons of all ranks and conditions, under pre- tence that, directly or indirectly, they are connected with the craft and mystery of sheep -feeding. Dull and unintellectual as the Spanish nation is, there still exists throughout the country a feeling, which, being expressed, may be called public opinion, decidedly hostile to this impolitic institution, as it at present exists, which not only inflicts severe injuries on private individuals, but literally retards the pro- gress of the whole country in the career of agricultural improvement. In the first place it withdraws from the rural population at least fifty thousand men ; a number which, in a retrograding population like that of Spain, where even the principle of life is compara- tively inactive, must be seriously felt. A large por- tion of the best land in the kingdom is converted into pasture ground, to the utter impoverishment of several provinces, where large numbers of the inha- bitants are cut oflT from the employments which agriculture would furnish, and from those necessaries of life which it would supply. Incalculable damage, moreover, is done to all those lands which are situated in the vicinity of the routes taken by the mesta; for, to say nothing of the sheep themselves, is it probable that fifty thousand sturdy vagabonds, such as are the shepherds, should pass through a country without committing all kinds of iniquities, PASTORAL LIFE. 127 particularly when they are well aware they may do so with impunity ? The persons suffering from these abuses have repeatedly presented their complaints and addresses " at the foot of the throne ;" but with- out any favourable result. From the above account one inference may be drawn, which, if the reader be of our way of thinking, will be regarded almost as important as a statement of the price of wool : viz. it will be evident that Spanish authors have it in their power to paint pastoral man- ners from the life, if they can only prevail upon them- selves to escape from their day-dreams in the salons of Madrid, and spend a month or two among the wandering shepherds of the mesta. In general, it must be confessed, pastorals, whether in verse or prose, are the dullest of all earthly compositions. A plodding unimaginative author sets two or three characters, insipid as himself, about describing their slavish employments, or mawkish passions. A few mythological allusions to the more obvious fables of antiquity, — for a slight sprinkling of heathenisms is deemed essential to pastoral ; a happy swain boasting of the favours of his mistress ; or a lack-a-daisical fop dying because Phyllis "• gives the preference" to some other shepherd : such are his materials, and the handling is generally worthy of them. But in Spain, the pastoral poet, as we have observed, has no excuse for falling into errors of this kind. It is easy for him to become an eye-witness of the scheme of life gene- rally prevalent among shepherds ; and long and exten- sive may be his experience before he discovers any 128 ANTIQUE SIMPLICITY. thing resembling the Arcadian simplicity, innocence, constancy, sentimentality, &c. &c. which look so en- chanting in the pages of Florian, and other imaginary sheep-feeders. Theocritus, it is well known, is the only pastoral poet who does not set one to sleep. And the reason is plain. He describes a shepherd's life, — or a herds- man's or goatherd's life, — just as he found it, and as it every where is to this day, free from the great dis- turbing passions, — from all, at least, except one, — but still sufficiently ruffled by the usual feelings of our nature, and not of such milk-white purity as, for the credit of the sheep who set them so praiseworthy an example, we might perhaps expect to find it. He enters with admirable tact into their feelings and amusements, exhibits in their true colours the hopes and fears, the vexations, petty jealousies, sorrows, vicissitudes, defeats, that disturb their obscure career, and at the same time reveals, in all their quiet beauty, the natural pleasures which fortune casts in the balance against their misadventures. Painted in this way, a country life, like a rustic landscape, may be invested with singular charms, more particularly for those, who, in the depths of their heart, sigh for the serenity of solitude, but by circumstances are perpetually con- fined within the dusty circle of business. Hence, in a great measure, the charms of Wordsworth's verse. He looks at the lakes and mountains for us, and translates into poetry the feelings we should all more or less experience, though we might be much less able to express them. PASTORAL AUTHORS. 129 Cervantes, with something of the modern leaning towards sentimentality, exhibits much of the vigour and truth to nature of Theocritus in his account of Don Quixote's brief sojourn among the goatherds. But in this picture there is a beauty which every reader of course feels, without perhaps perceiving from what combination it arises. The knight, whose mind is stored with poetical and classical associa- tions, beholds in the rude hinds around him memen- toes of the golden age ; of that time when there was neither mesta nor courtier in Spain, nor inclosures, nor friar, nor inquisition. His fancy colours every thing he sees with romantic and poetical hues. He walks on the clouds. For him, whatever the poets have feigned is realized to the letter. The goatherds, rough and ignorant, but hospitable, comprehend nothing of all this; and the gross and sensual Sancho, who is an exact representative of a good sort of man, understands still less than the goatherds. From these contrasts arises a picture inimitable in its kind, of what however is yet only the bright side of Spanish pastoral life; for the wrangling, cheating, insolent, thievish servants of the mesta, would make but a poor figure by the side of the Don's primitive entertainers. But the reader who has already made himself fami- liar with the Knight of the Rueful Countenance, will not pardon me if I content myself with merely alluding to this exquisite picture. He would be glad to look at it once more ; for, like morning or sunset, the truly beautiful will bear to be contemplated every day, and 130 QUIXOTIC PICTURES. seem perpetually to improve upon acquaintance. And if there be any one to whom it is new, I am in no apprehension of his censure for making him ac- quainted with it; so, without further ceremony, let us take up the Don just as he is entering upon this peaceful adventure : — " He received a hearty welcome from the goatherds ; and Sancho having, as well as he could, accommo- dated Rosinante and his ass, was attracted by the odour that issued from some pieces of goat's flesh that were boiling in a kettle ; but though he longed very much at that instant to see if it was time to transfer them from the kettle to the belly, he checked his curiosity, because the landlord took them from the fire, and spreading some sheep-skins upon the ground, set out their rustic table without loss of time, in- viting their two guests to a share of their mess, with many expressions of good-will and hospitality. Then those who belonged to the cot, being six in number, seated themselves round the skins, having first, with their boorish ceremony, desired Don Quixote to sit down on a trough, which they had overturned for that purpose. ** The knight accepted their offer, and Sancho remained standing, to administer the cup, which was made of horn ; but his master perceiving him in this attitude, ' That thou mayst see, Sancho,' said he, * the benefit which is concentered in knight-errantry, and how near all those who exercise themselves in any sort of ministry belonging to it, are to prefer- ment and esteem of the world, I desire thee to sit THE squire's eloquence. 131 down here by my side, in company with these worthy people ; and that thou mayst be on an equal footing with me, thy natural lord and master, eating in the same dish, and drinking out of the same cup that I use ; for what is said of love may be observed of knight-errantry, that it puts all things upon a level.' "'I give you a thousand thanks,' said Sancho ; ' but I must tell your worship that, provided I have plenty, I can eat as much, nay more to my satisfaction, standing on my legs, and in my own company, than if I was to sit by the side of an emperor ; and if all the truth must be told, I had much rather dine by myself in a corner, though it should be upon a bit of bread and an onion, without all your niceties and ceremonies, than eat turkey-cocks at another man's table, where I am obliged to chew softly, to drink sparingly, to wipe my mouth every minute, to abstain from sneezing or coughing, though I should be never so much inclined to either, and from a great many other things, which I can freely do when alone ; there- fore, sir master of mine, I hope these honours, which your worship would put upon me as being the servant and abettor of knight-errantry, which to be sure I am while I remain in quality of your squire, may be converted into other things of more ease and advan- tage to me, than those which, though I hold them as received in full, I renounce from henceforth for ever, amen.' — 'Thou must nevertheless sit down,' said his master, ' for him that is humble, God will exalt ;' and, seizing him by the arm, he pulled him down to the seat on which he himself sat. K 2 132 PASTOKAL SATIRE. ''The goat-herds, who understood not a word of all this jargon of squire and knights -errant, did nothing but eat in silence, and gaze upon their guests ; who, with keen appetite and infinite relish, solaced their stomachs by swallowing pieces as large as their fists. This service of meat being finished, they spread upon their skins great quantities of acorns, and half a cheese, harder than plaster of Paris. All this time the horn was not idle, but went round so fast, sometimes full, sometimes empty, like the buckets of a well, that they soon voided one of the two skins of wine that hung in view." Cervantes, who entertained but little respect for the notions that happened to be in fashion among his contemporaries, or which were transmitted down to them from their ancestors, has clearly, throughout this whole scene among the goatherds, his eye upon Garcilaso de la Vega, Mendoza, and others of that class, whose ideas of pastoral life were not a whit more sane than Don Quixote's. In the speech which follows, on the Golden Age, the satire glances in different directions, sometimes attacking those who could discover no excellence in their own times, sometimes the supporters of a contrary opinion. We would gladly transport Cid Hamet Benengeli entire into these pages, or at least the whole of this speech ; but we must, after all, leave ourselves room for an observation or two upon authors less known, who have likewise played upon the oaten pipe. Among these, a distinguished place belongs to Garcilaso de la Vega, who appears, however, to have PATHETIC PASTORAL. 133 imbibed his taste for this species of composition in Italy, where the example of Virgil has enticed many writers of distinguished abilities into this method of babbling o' green fields ; for the first, it seems, of his three famous Eclogues was written at Naples, where he is supposed to have imbibed the passion of bucolic- making from Sannazaro. His shepherds, as will pre- sently be manifest, are not copies of our friends who accompany the migratory flocks of Spain. Neither do they bear any resemblance to the poimenes of Theocritus. They are such shepherds as one sees in bag-wigs and tight silk stockings, '' sighing like fur- nace," or reclining lack-a-daisically in sweet arbours in the landscapes of Watteau. Love, of course, in some phasis or other a pastoral must exhibit, for without it this species of poem would be like beer without malt ; but it is whining, whimpering, de- spairing love, subsisting upon conceits, which would infallibly die the moment it should obtain its object. If a shepherd's love were returned, he would be happy, and there would be an end of it. No poet would celebrate his joys; for happiness is supposed to be untranslateable. But, if his passion be kindled by a scornful, unsteady, jilting abigail, whose cru- elty, to borrow a word from the pastoral vocabulai*y, drives him to despaii:, he immediately becomes a fit subject for the bucolic muse, and we are entertained with the intolerable sorrows which kept him from growing fat. Garcilaso possesses sufficient art to conceal the ridicule inherent in his subject. One of his shep- 134 THE TRUE SENTIMENTAL. herds is afflicted by genuine grief. The object of his love has been elevated to the rank of a pure spirit by death, and solemn associations from the grave breathe through the verse, and check effectually all disposition to be critical even where affectation is not wholly kept out of sight. The other, however, having be- stowed his affections on one whom he should rather have viewed with indifference, sees his mistress call another man lord, and on this account considers himself authorized to be at least as unhappy as his companion. This poem, with the other works of Garcilaso, has been translated into English by the late Mr. Wiffen, and I borrow from his version the following fragments, which will enable the reader to decide for himself whether he would like to form a more intimate acquaintance with the bucolics of Spain. Salicio. ** Through thee the silence of the shaded glen, Through thee the horror of the lonely mountain Pleased me no less than the resort of men ; The breeze, the summer wood, and lucid fountain, The purple rose, white lily of the lake. Were sweet for thy sweet sake ; For thee the fragrant primrose, dropt with dew, Was wished, when first it blew. Oh, how completely was I in all this Myself deceiving ! Oh, the different part That thou wert acting, covering, with a kiss Of seeming love, the traitor in thy heart ! This my severe misfortune long ago Did the soothsaying raven, sailing by On the black storm, with hoarse sinister cry Clearly presage ; in gentleness of woe, Flow forth, my tears, 'tis meet that ye should flow ! MORE SIGHS AND TEARS. 135 How oft when slumbering in the forest brown, (Deeming it fancy's mystical deceit,) Have I beheld my fate in dreams foreshown. One day methought that from the noontide heat, I drove my flocks to drink of Tagus' flood. And, under curtain of its bordering wood, Take my cool siesta ; but arrived, the stream, I know not by what magic, changed its track. And in new channels, by an unused way. Rolled its warped waters back : Whilst I, scorch'd, melting with the heat extreme. Went ever following in their flight, astray, The wizard waves : in gentleness of woe. Flow forth, my tears, 'tis meet that ye should flow! But though thou wilt not come for my sad sake. Leave not the landscape thou hast held so dear ; I'hou mayst come freely now without the fear Of meeting me ; for, though my heart should break, When late forsaken, I will now forsake. Come, then, if this alone detains thee ; here Are meadows full of verdure, myrtles, bays. Woodlands, and lawns, and running waters clear, Belov'd in other days ; To which, bedew'd with many a bitter tear, I sing my last of lays. These scenes, perhaps, when I am far remov'd. At ease thou wilt frequent With him who rifled me of all I lov'd. Enough ! my strength is spent ; And leaving thee in his desir'd embrace. It is not much to leave him this sweet place. Nemoroso. As at the set of sun the shades extend. And when its circle sinks, that dark obscure Rises to shroud the world, on which attend The images that set our hair on end. 136 A PASTORAL FINALE. Silence, and shapes raj'-sterious as the grave : Till the broad sun sheds, once more, from the wave His lively lustre, beautiful and pure ; Such shapes were in the night, and such ill gloom At thy departure ; still tormenting fear Haunts, and must haunt me, until death shall doom The so much wished-for sun to re-appear Of thine angelic face, my soul to cheer. Resurgent from the tomb. * * • * « Poor lost Eliza ! of thy locks of gold, One treasured ringlet in white silk I keep For ever at my heart ; which when unroll'd, Fresh grief and pity o'er my spirit creep, And my insatiate eyes, for hours untold, O'er the dear pledge will like an infant weep : With sighs more warm than fire, anon I dry The tears from off it ; number, one by one. Thy radiant hairs, and with a love-knot tie : Mine eyes, this duty done. Give over weeping, and with slight relief, I taste a short forgetfulness of grief.** CHAPTER VII. ST. ILDEFONSO AND THE ESCURIAL. Apology for Digressions — Diego's Mules — Monks of Burgos — Barren Plains — Change in the Landscape — Approach the Mountains — Palace of St. lldefonso — Tomb of Philip — Vari- able Climate — the Escurial — the Pantheon — the Gardens — Works of Art — Funeral Procession — Treasures of Learning — Portraits — the Tabernacle — Road to Madrid — Silent Palinodia. It is much to be feared that, what with our learned dissertations on wool, and delectable disquisitions on bucolic poetry, arising out of our partiality for sheep and cattle, the reader has ere this made up his mind to sleep during the rest of the journey. Should this, however, be his determination, let him lay no blame on us if he learns nothing of St. lldefonso, the Escurial, or the Seven Peaks, upon the subject of which we may, perhaps, prove excessively eloquent, before we take our coffee at Madrid. It may, moreover, be con- fessed, inter nos, that we found the shepherds begin- ning to become a bore, even to us, who are gifted with the patience of Job ; and therefore reserve for next year the remainder of our diatribe upon their poetical manner of life, on their feeding, like hogs or Arcadians, upon acorns, with sundry other particulars, some few of which, we find, Cervantes has purloined, without acknowledgment, from our ^'Adversaria." 138 UNFEIGNED ADMIRATION. During the many days we remained at Segovia^ collecting materials for the above chapter, Diego's mules had been feeding like aldermen, and by the day of our departure were grown so exceedingly frisky, that we more than once apprehended the overturning of our vehicle from their unruly movements. In fact, they reminded us strongly of the crowd of sleek citizens who, after divine service, crowded round us close to the cathedral of Burgos, admiring the tramontane cut of our coats, laughing at our heretical boots and breeches, and the narrow brims of our hats, which they seemed to regard as something smelling strongly of Martin Luther. However, oif we went, the vast mountains of Castile rising before us, and amusing our fancy till the pinnacles of the palace itself bristled up in the distance, inviting our eye to descend, for the present, from the mountains to contemplate them. There are but about six miles to travel from Sego- via to St. Ildefonso. Nevertheless, the pilgrim of the picturesque would scarcely feel any regret if the dis- tance were still considerably less, the whole fore- ground of the landscape which meets his eye consist- ing of mere barren plains, with a few hungry hamlets sparingly scattered over them. Nothing can well be more unfertile than this district, which must, more- over, remain so for ever, unless art can be made to supply the deficiency of water with which nature has cursed it. But the folly and weakness of former go- vernments contributed greatly to improve the native barrenness of the land. Consulting only their own pleasures, and basely trampling on the rights of the A monarch's wisdom. 139 people they were designed to serve, they let loose upon the province numerous herds of deer, which, overspreading the country, ate up every thing edible that the industry of the peasant had culled into existence. To the honour of Charles IV. it should be added, however, that he had no sooner ascended the throne, than he took measures for delivering the husbandman from this scourge. As we advance nearer to St. Ildefonso, a change almost magical takes place in the landscape. Imper- ceptibly we find ourselves transported from an arid flat into the midst of hills and valleys, watered by numerous sparkling rivulets, and clothed with deli- cious herbage. Woods, rising along the heights, and opening into vistas of emerald green, disclose from time to time the scanty descendants of those mischiev- ous herds of deer above commemorated ; while here and there, emerging from clusters of verdant oaks, a beautiful villa presents its classic front to the eye. Farther on, the palace itself, partly embosomed in trees, and flanked by mountains of sublime grandeur, unites with the surrounding objects in forming a pic- ture not to be contemplated without profound interest. This palace, the favourite residence of Philip the Fifth, was greatly embellished by that monarch; who, reckless of his duties, or ignorant of the high trust Providence had reposed in him, lavished upon his private pleasures the riches of Spain. The great object of his ambition is supposed to have been, — if we can believe historians at least, — to rival the vaunted won- ders of the gardens of Versailles. Here, surrounded 140 TOMB OF PHILIP V. by rugged precipices and solitary woods, he loved to spend the days bestowed on him for much higher purposes than indulging in useless gloom; and here, when death had gathered him to his fathers, his ashes were deposited. We visited his mausoleum. It is con- structed, in a style of much simplicity, of various kinds of marbles, with ornaments of bronze. The tomb itself, resting on a massive pedestal, supports an urn surmounting a lofty abacus. Two statues, one representing Charity, the other a weeping figure, are placed one on either side of the urn. Above these are two medallions, containing the portraits of Philip and his queen, both enveloped with a veil, which Fame is endeavouring to remove. A pyramid supporting a vase of perfumes rises behind the tomb, on the pedestal of which is the following inscription : — PHILIPPO V. PRINCIPI MAXIMO, OPTIMO PARENT I, FERDINANDUS VI. POSUIT. But Ferdinand, having erected this monument to his father's memory, abandoned the palace to his mother-in-law. The court, however, long continued, and I believe still continues, to spend the hot summer months in this wild retreat, which is defended from the sirocco and other southerly winds by a very elevated ridge of snowy mountains, and lies in a sheltered vale open to the north. Like all places in the immediate vicinity of lofty mountain chains, Saint Tldefonso is liable to sudden and frequent AGTIEEABLE SPOTS. 141 changes in the temperature of the atmosphere, so that, in the com-se of the twenty-fom' hours, persons of delicate constitutions are sometimes obliged to change their dress two or three times. These fluctuations in the state of the air are occasionally productive of colic, and other acute disorders. The exterior of the palace has nothing magnificent in its appearance; though the garden front, adorned with pillars of the Corinthian order, is not inelegant. From several of the royal apartments there is a splen- did view over a parterre, adorned with marble vases and statues, of a cascade unrivalled for the richness of its decorations and the limpid purity of its waters. A romantic stream breaks over the rocks at no great distance, and rolls along through an extensive tract of thickets, where the king, when disposed to imitate Isaak Walton, used to amuse himself with the rod and line. One of the principal recommendations of St. Tldefonso arises from the abundance and excel- lence of its water. These it owes to the mountains which, towering aloft into the clouds, intercept vast quantities of vapours on their way towards the scorch- ing plains of New Castile, and convert them into springs and rills that flow northward, and fertilize and render beautiful this solitary spot. The grounds, which are three miles in circumference, and of very broken and unequal surface, exhibit an end- less succession of novel scenes. They are laid out with much taste. Each of the principal walks corresponds with one of the peaks of the neighbouring mountains, and, like the vistas in the Isola Madre, forcibly fixes 142 WATER- WORKS. attention upon the most striking objects. One in particular every visitor must notice. Opening forward from the grand facade, it carries the view over five fountains, adorned with exquisite groupes of sculp- ture, rising with the ground tier above tier, to the mountain peak which crowns the whole. The water-works are universally acknowledged to excel those of Versailles, which, therefore, need not be disparaged below their merit to heighten the praise of these. One traveller ventures to describe the water thrown up in the gardens of the French king as of a muddy colour, and as falling down like a noisome thick fog. He is wrong. They are less crystalline indeed than these ; but, to make this discovery, it is necessary to observe them very narrowly. No doubt the streams thrown up by the Castilian fountain are clear as crystal, and the sunbeams falling through them play before the eye in the most exquisite pris- matic tints, while the spray falls around like the finest dew. The sweetness of the atmosphere, the odours of the flowers, the murmuring waters, and the blue sunny beauty of the heavens above, make you imagine yourself transported to the fabled gardens of Irem, and a gentle melancholy seizes you as a mul- titude of historical associations rise before the mind. Nature itself never meant an earthly paradise to arise in this spot. The soil is hungry and shallow, and the rocks are so compact and uniformly near the surface, that, in order to obtain depth for the trees to take root, the king had square pits blown in the rock with gunpowder, and worked with tools, after which A FRENCH poet's ACCOUNT. 143 they were filled with earth brought hither from a distance. His industry, indeed, would have been commendable had his whole kingdom been a rock, like Malta, where the knights were compelled to have recourse to similar contrivances to create a few scanty gardens; but Spain abounds in fertile and pleasant spots, where, with little labour or expense, scenes of surpassing beauty might be called into existence. Distance, however, in all cases, enhances the beauty of objects. Delille, in his " Jardins," speaks of the grounds of St. Ildefonso with an enthusiam, which probably would not have been increased by a visit to the spot ; but, it may be remarked that he dwells with most delight on that which is furthest removed from nature. He seems, indeed, to speak with some degree of disrespect of artificial springs ; but after all, what is there here that is not artificial ? " Toi^^ he exclaims: ** Toi, surtout, Udefonse, et tes fraiches delices La ne sont point tes eaux dont les sources factices, Se ferment tout a coup, par leur morne repos Attristant le bocage et etrompent les echos. Sans cesse r6sonnant dans ces jardins superbes, D'intarissables eaux, en colonnes, en gerbes, S'^lancent, fendentl'air de leurs rapides jets, Et des monts paternels ^galent les sommets : Lieu superbe ou Philippe, avec magnificence, Defiait son ayeul et retra^.ait la France." The palace contains a very fine and large collection of pictures, several of which are by the most cele- brated masters. There are travellers who appear to acquire, during their passage through Spain, a taste for its scenery, its manners, and its artists ; who, 144 CHARACTERISTICS OF ART. accordingly prefer the productions of the native painters before those of the greatest men of Italy. But, with every disposition to do justice to Murillo, Velasquez, and other Spaniards, I constantly, in all their collections, found my eye v^^andering towards the works of the Italians, who, in art, appear to have imbibed more of the Hellenic spirit than any other people of modern times. Among the most remarkable pictures here, however, — where there are some by Michael Angelo, Claude Lorraine, and Guido Reni, — is one of Murillo, " Saint Anne teaching the Virgin to read ;" in which, united with the greatest fidelity to nature, there is a softness, a delicacy, a force of expression perfectly Titianesque. Not far from this splendid work of art is a head of Portia, by Guido, mentioned by several travellers, into which the artist has infused all the dignity of a Roman matron, tempered by the graceful tenderness and impassioned melancholy of an Attic maiden. Among the sculptures, which I believe are wholly antique, are several very splendid groupes and statues. We were particularly struck by an Aphrodite kneeling on a tortoise, and pouring a phial of essences over her plaited tresses. Here we find embodied that placid loveliness which the Hellenic sculptors appropriated to their representations of divine beings; visible in Here, Athena, Dameter, and Artemis, but shining forth in none so resplendently as in the daughter of Dione, in whom all the grace and sweetness of the old mythical poetry appear to be clothed with form and expression. A PLEASANT RETREAT. 145 But it is by no means my intention to enter into critical remarks on the works of art to be found at Saint Ildefonso; properly to do this, we ought to have remained there at least a month; whereas we viewed the whole in a morning. Proceeding thence towards the mountains, in less than an hour we traversed the Eresma and reached Balsain, a village lying in the depths of a woody hollow, where the kings of Spain had formerly a hunting-seat. The view now assumes a magnificent character. Bleak pine- clad mountains, covered deeply on their loftier slopes with snow, and lifting their numerous peaks far into the clear sky, broken into chasms, ravines, and torrent beds, in one place barren as the ocean, in another teeming with gloomy vegetation, stretch right and left like the battlements of some vast fortress reared by the Titans. At first view it seems, as among the Alpine ridges, impossible to climb the impending steeps. No hold for the foot of man or beast appears. But as we advance, the road, shaded by enormous-pine trees, works its way upwards among the rocks, until you at length find yourself on the level summit, with the interminable plains of New Castile stretched out like a map beneath your eye. Madrid, about whose extent and magnificence the Spaniard makes such a continual boast, every Casti- lian should view from this elevated spot. He would then see what it is, — a circumscribed dot upon the map of the plain, which scarcely makes a break in the vast sweep of the horizon. One enjoys extraor- dinary pleasure in contemplating a scene like the one L 146 A DISTANT VIEW. now before us from so great a height. There is an elastic spring in the air which imparts a buoyancy to the spirits, already put in brisk motion by exercise and the sun. The sight, too, pursuing its objects over so boundless an expanse, unobstructed by mist, or haze, or cloud, appears to enjoy a grasp unknown in more northern latitudes, and luxuriates on a multi- tude of fine points at once. But if such a scene presents all the characteristics of a map, it will of course be understood that among them want of life and animation must be included. There is the grave- like stillness of the desert, accompanied by a con- sciousness of imperfection on your part; for you are sure there is life with all its concomitants below, if the obtuseness of your organs did not prevent its being revealed to you. Soon, therefore, you are glad to quit this aerial observatory, and drop with satisfac- tion into the plains of New Castile. During our descent we noticed here and there upon the brown sun-burned plain, dense volumes of smoke rising from spots where appeared no other signs of population; and learned, upon inquiry, that they proceeded from the kilns of charcoal-burners, who in this necessary operation destroy the few copses and thickets which might otherwise rescue this dreary landscape from the charge of utter nakedness. The road, meanwhile, is exceedingly good ; and ere we have achieved one half of the descent, the eye, plung- ing down a hollow of the mountain, alights with surprise and pleasure on the famous monastery of the Escurial. SINGULAR EFFECT ON THE EYE. 147 Even from a distance, the appearance of this edifice is remarkably striking. It looks a forest of lofty domes, towers, spires, and pinnacles. The gridiron plan, — of which the hint was taken, not from the frontispiece of Cobhett's Register, as many sage and learned antiquaries might perhaps suppose, but from the instrument used by the ancient pagans in grilling St. Lawrence, — is not discoverable from the over- hanging mountains, or indeed at all, unless it is pointed out, or recalled by an effort of the memory. You behold balconies, balustrades, hanging galleries, domes, roofs of all heights, columns, windows in- numerable, with broad esplanades, sheets of water, walks, and shady trees below ; and the impression, if not that of beauty, which, alas ! is every where rare, is at least that of power aiming blindly at the sub- lime, and stumbling in its way on barbaric grandeur and magnificence. But much of the eflfect produced upon the imagi- nation springs from the wild and singular situation of the place. Secluded in a recess of these savage mountains, midway up their steep acclivity, it seems to be one of those edifices raised by enchantment in unfrequented spots to amaze and bewilder the tra- veller. Yet it is not out of harmony with the scene. Gloomy in its site, it is itself gloomy, and calculated to beget that feeling in all who behold it. I beheld it, nevertheless, with much pleasure. The rich mellow tints of autumn were on the woods which clothe the slopes of the mountain beyond it ; the warm rays of the sun streamed between its spires and domes, heightening infinitely their picturesque effect; and 148 BEAUTY OF THE SITE. there was an air, I know not from whence arising, of soft melancholy repose diffused over the whole, which, no doubt, constituted its principal charm in the eyes of the atrabilious monarch who chose it for his favourite abode. Though I had read many descriptions of this extra- ordinary edifice, I found, as usual, that none of them had exactly prepared me for what I saw. Every thing had been exaggerated, except the beauty of the site, which, though striking at first, is not properly appre- ciated till one has strolled leisurely through the grounds, and studied, from every point of view, the character of the encircling landscapes. Above all things that Spain has to show, the scenes round the Escurial, contemplated in the soft hour which pre- cedes twilight, are perhaps the most truly poetical, and the best calculated to leave a lasting impression on the heart. One feels all around the approach of evening. Massive shadows thicken among the trees, where the breezes become fresher and louder, swinging to and fro the huge boughs, and rustling the innume- rable leaves. The birds sing cheerfully, though taking their farewell of the day ; and as we listen, the forms of friends beloved, but now far distant, crowd around us, and impart an unearthly flavour to our enjoyment. And if the eye wanders upwards, through some long leafy vista, towards the over-hanging sierras, it be- holds the golden sunshine, which has left the plains and valleys, lingering among their skyey peaks, and likening them, in their serene and tranquil beauty, to those Olympian summits, where the poetical imagina- tion of the pagan placed the home of his gods. ARCHITECTURAL CRITICISM. 149 The palace, or monastery, — which ever it may be called, — though doubtless it pleased me, did so much less than the site. Within and without it betrays marks of effort, aiming laboriously, and, I must add, ignorantly, at effect. The general body of the edifice is much too low; the towers, spires, and domes, in comparison, too high; and accordingly their union, instead of producing one grand whole, instinct with harmony, gives the idea of a piece of architectural patchwork tastelessly put together. The portico, for example, of the principal front, is timidly, as it were, thrust into the building, and rests on a basement elevated unmeaningly above the esplanade. What it is intended for, no one can tell. Above it, moreover, you discover a weight of building, which every moment appears about to crush it into the earth; and then, if you contemplate it from the height close at hand, your eye runs along the roof until it is obstructed by masses of littleness. On the contrary, though deficient in beauty, the square towers and the dome have, from their mere height, an air of grandeur, which helps to rescue the general impres- sion from the charge of tameness and insipidity. Many travellers, captivated by mere magnitude, seek to dazzle the reader by dwelling upon the vast dimensions of the structure. The building, it is observed, is a long square of six hundred and forty feet by five hundred and eighty ; so that allowing, in addition, four hundred and sixty for the projection of the chapel and king's quarter, the whole cir- cumference amounts to two thousand nine hundred 150 PERIOD OF ITS FOUNDATION. feet. Granted : but what is the height ? By exact admeasurement fifty- one feet eight inches to the cornice, not more than a twelfth of the length of the front, which looks, therefore, more like one side of a street than the facade of a palace. Its erection was commenced in 1557, under the auspices of Manegro, a Toledan architect ; who dying in ten years, left the work to be continued by Juan Herrera Bustamente, one of his pupils, an Asturian, who died thirty years afterwards at Madrid. The stone of which it is constructed is of a poor gray colour, brought from the neighbouring mountains. Some writers pretend, not perhaps without reason, that it was erected by Philip the Second, in conse- quence of a vow made to St. Lawrence before the battle of St. Quentin, which was fought on the 10th of August, 1557. Whether the vow be apocryphal or not, the battle of St. Quentin was the cause of its erection; for Philip, desirous of commemorating so signal a victory gained by his troops over the French, reared this monastery and dedicated it to St. Law- rence, the patron saint of the day on which the victory had been achieved. And now follows the chief absurdity. St. Lawrence having, according to popish legends, been broiled to death on a gridiron, Philip, to propitiate his manes, accommodated the plan of his building to the form of that martyrolo- gical instrument of cookery, appropriating to himself the handle, and the remainder to the monks ; to inti- mate, possibly, that he would much rather they should be grilled than he. THE CHURCH AND ITS INTERIOR. 151 The church, which occupies the centre of the whole pile, is spacious, lofty, and very richly decorated, and surmounted by a light cupola. The high altar, on which, in Catholic churches, we find the principal care generally bestowed, is composed of sumptuous marbles, agates, and jaspers of extreme rarity, all found in Spain. Two catafalquos occupy the side arcades of the sanctuary; on one of which the em- peror Charles the Fifth, with his wife, daughter, and two sisters, are represented in colossal bronze figures in the attitude of prayer ; and on the opposite side are those of Philip the Second, his unnatural son, with his three wives, likewise in bronze, and in a kneeling posture. At perceiving them thus put in juxtaposition, one remembers how diligently the father flogged himself; partly as penance for his numerous crimes, partly for his folly in yielding up the reins of government to a son, who more than once refused him the stipend necessary for his maintenance. Beneath is the burial-place of the royal family, heathenishly styled the " Pantheon," and not unaptly applied, considering the character of the majority of the princes of Spain. We descend to this vault by a flight of twenty-five steps, and read over the door a Latin inscription, which informs the curious traveller that the place is sacred to the mortal remains of the Catholic kings of Spain ; — "HIC LOCUS SACER MORTALITATIS EXUVIIS CATHOLICORUM REGUM HISPANIARUM," ETC. The original idea of this family vault, the last retreat of vain-glory and pride, was conceived by the 152 ROYAL TOMBS. Emperor Charles ; his son Philip, more inclined to do honour to his memory than to his person while he lived, determined to carry the design into execution, but took no active steps towards it. Philip the Third inherited the project, and made a beginning ; and the fourth Philip, more fortunate in this than his pre- decessors, completed the royal tomb. Weak and frail as we are, some apology may be made for the solici- tude we all experience that our bones may repose in a peaceful, if not a sumptuous retreat, when death shall have laid his hand upon us. Kings share this feeling with the peasant. If virtuous, therefore, while they live, I would willingly excuse their vanity and weakness in this particular; seeing, as the pagans expressed it, that the tomb is our true dwelling-place, to which life is but the passage, or scanty vestibule. The staircase by which we descend to the Pantheon is covered, like the building itself, with marble. This subterraneous building, which strongly calls to mind the descriptions given by travellers of the tombs of the Egyptian kings at Thebes, is one hundred and eight feet in circumference, and nearly forty in height. There is little here to remind us of being in the burial-place of Christian princes. The example of our Saviour, too generally forgotten by them during life, has not been imitated by the Spanish kings in their graves. The simplicity of Christ suited not with their ideas of sepulchral magnificence. They would render Hades a place of delight, a place where the disembodied shade, if still cheered by the sight of marbles, bronze, gold, and the other gewgaws with VARIOUS COMPARTMENTS. 153 which human vanity seeks to conceal or disguise our mortality, might love to wander, through halls dim and shadowy, but occasionally lighted up, — when another inmate is added to that silent throng, — by a superb lustre shedding its beams, like an infernal sun, from the cupola, upon that gorgeous nook of the nether world. This imperial abode of death is divided into several chambers, each appropriated to some particular pur- pose. In one, significantly denominated the jpodridero, or ^' place of putrefaction," the bodies of kings and queens are consigned to the first ravages of corrup- tion. Close to this is a chamber set apart for such personages of royal stock, of both sexes, as have not participated in the delights of sovereign power ; and among these a French traveller discovered with some satisfaction, that the ashes of the Due de Vendome had obtained a place on the 9th of September, 1712. " But far within, And in their own dimensions, like themselves. The great Castilian lords, and conquerors, In close recess and secret conclave sit." The Rotunda, or Pantheon properly so called, is appropriated entirely to the remains of royalty. No dust is there but what once felt pleasure or pain upon a throne, and heard courtiers and poets-laureate bab- bling of its greatness and immortality. The flickering light of a torch now guides your footsteps through this dumb and motionless assembly of sovereigns, who once wielded the destiny of millions, while the dust 154 EFFECT OF THE SCENE. of their satellites has long mingled with the clods of some common cemetery. By the aid of this dim light, rendered still more chilling and melancholy by that which descends through the gratings from above, you discern, opposite the principal entrance, an altar and a crucifix of black marble on a pediment of porphyry. This is the most beaming ornament of the whole ; there is a language in the crucifix ; it suggests a train of ideas that softens the features of death, and sends the thoughts, oppressed by a sense of helpless mor- tality, bounding upwards to Him who brought life and immortality to light through the Gospel. The royal sarcophagi are arranged on either side of the altar in three rows, one above another, like the coffins in an Egyptian tomb, and in different com- partments, divided from each other by noble fluted pilasters of marble. Of these sarcophagi, which are of bronze and of a chaste and classic form, many, still empty, are ready to receive the ashes of kings yet to be. Moralists declaim, on the occasion of such visits, of the lessons humanity may learn from spectacles of this kind ; but I have never heard that people's humanity was disposed to turn them to any good account. The ornaments which adorn this subterranean palace are tasteful and elegant. Both the walls and arches are encrusted with marbles exquisitely assimi- lated and shaded; the entrance is adorned with ten polished marble Doric columns, with bases, capitals, and medallions of gilded bronze ; and, placed one on either hand, are two allegorical statues, the one of human nature, the other of Hope. A CONTRAST. 155 But if we remain longer under ground, we shall become gloomy and tomb-like as the mausoleum itself. We, in fact, found the shadows of the grave closing over our imaginations ; and, ere examining the pictures and other works of art here brought together by the Spanish kings, found it necessary to shake off the dreary feeling by a walk in the gardens. The weather was beautifully clear, but, as the wind blew from the north and came sweeping down from the mountains in violent gusts, there was a chill in the air difficult to reconcile with the sunny look spread over every thing around. Our guide, however, a gossiping septagenarian, whose hale complexion did great credit to the cli- mate of the Escurial, assured us that the cold we complained of was nothing compared with what is sometimes experienced even in July, when the wind happens to sit in the same quarter. He spoke much also of the prodigious fury of the winds. If we might believe him, miracles are every year performed at the Escurial by Boreas, who not only blows old women from one end of the Lonja to the other, — a distance of three-quarters of a mile; but whisks carriages-and- four across a court or avenue with an ease and celerity peculiar to Spanish winds. Once, he said, — and he liberally exhibited the remainder of his teeth while he spoke, — ^he remembered to have seen a state minister taken up in the coolest manner imaginable by the breath of an insolent tornado, and deposited, stars and ribands and all, in a thicket hard by. And it was his firm opinion that the wind would not spare even the 156 INGENUITY OF DON JAYME. king himself, should he venture out while it is blowing. Perceiving the little respect of these plebeian blasts. for the attendants, &c. on royalty, and reflecting that it is sometimes necessary to venture abroad even on such occasions, a subterraneous corridor, called la Mina, has been carried from the palace to the village, where most of the courtiers have their mis- tresses, by which even women, or the king's guards, may pass to and fro without fear, let the wind blow as it pleases above. The sage and ingenious poli- tician, whose profound genius suggested this method of outwitting the north- wind, has thereby obtained a kind of immortality in Spain, where every thing which promotes the comforts of the great is regarded with unceasing admiration. Let us, therefore, aid in handing the name of this illustrious individual down to posterity. Reader, he was known in Castile by the glorious appellation of Don Jayme Massones ; which henceforward, we hope, will be as celebrated as that of Antinous, Hephestion, or any other king's favourite renowned in history. But the winds, we find, are blowing us away from the gardens, which we quitted the cemetery on pur- pose to enjoy. They differ greatly from those of St. Ildefonso. Here there is much more of nature ; and the solitude and quiet which brood over every thing, enhance the beauty of the landscape, or, at least, give additional force to its effect upon the imagination. The walks are exceedingly rugged. One broad alley, in particular, leads through a deep valley towards a woody and shaggy projection of the mountains. FEATURES OP THE LANDSCAPE. 157 terminating in precipitous cliffs, which have an appear- ance wild as the rocks of Savoy or the Upper Valais. The ground you traverse, being exceedingly broken and rugged, now ascending and now sinking abruptly, in some places clothed thick with trees, in others bare, presents you every moment with new features in the landscape. Here a cluster of tiny waterfalls breaks upon the eye at once, dashing, foaming, and plunging with hissing sound down natural or arti- ficial steeps ; there green slopes, thickly sprinkled with wild flowers and encircled by umbrageous trees, disclose to us a herd of fallow deer, grazing, lying down, or glancing sportively through the sunshine. These gardens have a general slope, which is that of the mountains, towards the south, and descend, terrace below terrace, towards the plain. This gives them, when viewed from a little distance, either below or above, the appearance of hanging gardens, piled up artificially one above another like the diminutive gradations of the Isola Bella. From the sweep, also, of the semi-hollow in which they are situated, they have something of the appearance of the gallery of a theatre, and the very site looks almost artificial, without losing any of the beauty which nature has bestowed on it. From all this, it will be easy to conceive how delightful was the contrast we felt on coming forth from the damp gloomy sepulchre into these gladsome walks, where every thing looked so cheerful and sunny, that it was somewhat difficult to believe in the existence of death. 158 VIEW OF THE VILLAGE. By the advice of the guide we walked up to the village, where, he assured us, we should behold a procession of great pomp and splendour. Though this kind of show, — in which, judiciously or inju- diciously I know not, the Catholics have imitated the pagans of antiquity, — was by no means new to us, we judged it to be our duty as travellers to see whatever was to be seen; and accordingly put our- selves under his direction, to lead us whithersoever he might think proper. Of the village itself nothing need be said ; except that it certainly seemed, at least in its holiday trim, somewhat less dirty than most other villages. The windows of the street through which the procession was to pass were all hung with tapestry, or, as my companion thought, with coverlets and other bed-clothes, which looked very well at a distance. About the procession itself there was undoubtedly considerable splendour ; moving along with flags and streamers waving, bands of music playing impressive airs, and a large image of the Virgin borne by four monks, while six grey friars found employ in supporting the awning which pro- tected it from the sun. The flags, which had once been extremely beautiful, though carefully furbished up for the occasion, could not conceal the fact that they had seen much service, and were now far advanced in years ; a remark which will still more strongly apply to the antique vehicle that closed the procession, and had doubtless seen the light before the Moors were driven out of Granada. It probably belonged to the bishop. TRAITS AND COSTUME. 159 As they were proceeding to the church of the Escurial, we fell into the train of old women and ragged urchins who composed the majority of the spectators, and strolled very devoutly among them, adapting our looks and paces to the occasion. Several honest peasants from the neighbouring hamlets had taken care to desert their field-labours to be present at this august ceremony, and the figures they cut were by no means unpicturesque. They wore a short doublet over a tight black waistcoat, and a good cloak, which the wind made very free with, over all. As these modern Abantes wear the hair long, some- thing is found necessary to keep it in order; and accordingly, every man appeared with his head in a bag of black silk netting, called recezilla; which, being filled with profuse and well-matted elf-locks, hung gracefully over the shoulders, moved from side to side as the owner of the bag looked this way or that. Their large round hats, more for show than use, were carried in the hand. Two or three Cas- tilians from beyond the mountains formed a striking contrast with their neighbours, disguised in their dark-coloured frocks, strapped round the waist like a friar's sack, and gloomy pointed monteros. On arriving at the monastery, they deposited in the chapel a figure of a friar holding a cross, which I had not previously noticed, and then retired to the adjoining cloisters, whither we also followed. One of their corps was now selected, — for his resemblance^ it was said, to our Saviour ! — and a cord having been bound about his body, and a crown of thorns placed 160 WORKS OP ART. upon his head, he took up an immense crucifix, — in imitation of Christ's bearing the cross, — and the pro- cession continued, the monks chaunting and parading round the cloisters. We now left the friars to continue their exhibition, and directed our attention to the conventual part of the edifice, in which there are numerous objects wor- thy of observation, — as the old church, the priory, the chapter-rooms, refectories, cloisters, and library. Perhaps, however, there is nothing in the Escurial more worthy of notice, — excepting the library, which a passing stranger can make no use of, — than the superb collection of pictures, dispersed about the various parts of the church, sacristy, and convent. In many respects they may be said to surpass every other gallery in Europe, except that of Dresden. Here the English traveller beholds with considerable interest, pictures which once belonged to England, having been collected for Charles the First, who whatever may have been his political errors, was not without taste. By the side of these are such of the spoils of Italy as the rapacious sovereigns of Spain could gather together during their odious domination over the southern portion of that most beautiful land ; consequently we have here, as might have been expected, works of art of the highest grade, — of the highest, at least, known to modern times. In a portion of the edifice called the Antilla^ there are several pieces by Titian, all remarkable for that truth of outline and richness of colouring for which MARTYROLOGY. 161 this great artist is distinguished. Among these, the one most generally admired is a Glory, in which he has introduced the emperor Charles the Fifth and his son Philip, not as saints, but as suppliants. The composition of this picture no doubt contains some- thing grand and striking; but it comes less strongly recommended to the imagination by inventive grace than a Saint Margaret, which the monks, however, have contrived to spoil, by painting a cloth to cover the naked limbs. This reminded me of the anecdote of the Italian painter, who was engaged by one of the more scrupulous pontiffs to drape the figures of his more distinguished predecessors, and hence acquired the appellation of " the master-tailor," — the head of a new school of masters. But, rather than mutilate so fine a work of art, it would have been better to have transferred it to some other building. Here also is a fine original picture by El Mudo, representing a number of Christians coming by night to bear away the body of Saint Lawrence, who, as we have already observed, had suffered martyrdom on a gridiron. The subject was admirably well suited to the painter's genius, and he has accordingly made the most of it. You discover the pious company advancing stealthily by the light of a single torch, which casts a startling glare upon their faces, where courage and apprehension, reliance upon Providence, and a desire to escape the notice of their enemies, are exquisitely blended. Proceeding into the chapter-house, where there is a Saint John playing with a Lamb, by Spagnoletto, M 1G2 PICTORIAL CHARACTERISTICS. distinguished for its extraordinary merit, our whole attention was engrossed by the Annunciation of Ba- roccio. The Virgin, whose true character none but the artists of Italy have seized, is a being full of sanctity and poetry, beautiful, yet not merely on that account remarkable. Informed of her high destiny, believing, yet amazed, she stands an incarnation of meekness, and innocence, and perfect submission; and the sentiment, recorded with inimitable beauty by the Evangelist, ^' I am the slave of God!" breathes from her features, and appears to be fluttering upon her lips. Idolatry is, no doubt, in all respects hateful; but if any modification of it be less guilty, less condemnable than another, it is doubtless the wor- ship of the Virgin, of that purest, and brightest, and holiest of created things, in comparison with whose loveliness even the liquid light of Hesper is pale and dim. But I am growing half a pagan, and must hurry on to the vicar's hall, where we find what is regarded as the master-piece of Velasquez : " the sons of Jacob showing him the bloody garment of Joseph, and bidding examine him and see whether it was his son's coat or not." This is certainly a splendid work of art. The grouping is highly natural, the characters of the several personages are legibly written on their countenances, and the dumb agony of the father, not wholly unmingled with self-reproach, has all the force and energy of life. Murillo has never, perhaps, produced any thing equal to this ; but I speak with hesitation, as his works have afforded too much MORE OP THE SAME. 163 genuine pleasure to allow of my giving my vote against him without regret. There is a Dead Christ, by Rubens, in the prior's hall, which professed connoisseurs consider in his best manner, and very greatly admire. I find little to please me in the works of this painter, excepting their rude vigour, indicative, no doubt, of much energy in their author. The fault may be in me, or peradventure in him; but in my eyes, he always appears to have been deficient in the art of directing his energies into a proper channel, and even in the taste required to keep clear of coarseness and vul- garity, than which nothing can be more adverse to high art. However, the figure of Mary Magdalen kneeling before the corpse of Christ, is executed in a fine striking style, and there is considerable majesty in the august body of the dead. In the same hall is a magnificent picture of Paolo Veronese, the Centu- rion kneeling to Christ, in which we admire both the character of the figures, and the classic majesty of the architecture. I pass over many other works of genuine merit, in order to say one word of a Holy Family by Raflfaelle. Nothing can be more touching than the pictures of this class from the hands of masters. The most per- fect harmony pervades the composition : dignified old age in Saint Joseph ; youth, beauty, spotless inno- cence, the timidity of a girl, the tenderness of a mother, in the Virgin; and in Christ whatever is most winning, lovely, soft, and attractive in child- hood. Heaven itself is suffused about them like a m2 I64t FUNERAL PROCESSION. cloud. The heart is elevated and chastened while we gaze. There is a religion in them distinct from that of art. We admire, we love, and grow better as we gaze. Much of this character belongs also to a Ma- donna in Glory, by Guido, which is one of the most exquisite creations of art any where to be found in Spain. It breathes of a divine and quiet majesty, almost peculiar to this artist, who was doubtless a poet, if ever artist was. The Virgin is distinguished for that meek elevation of character which belongs to unconscious greatness ; and there is in the expression of the Christ, in addition to the sublimity inherent in his nature, a calm concentrated thoughtfulness altogether supernatural. In the midst of the rare enjoyment afforded by these masterly productions of art, the shadows of evening began to be perceived creeping silently through the halls of the Escurial, suspending a thickening veil over the pictures, and admonishing us to pause in our admiration. It became necessary to retreat to the village, from whence we might return early on the following morning. We effected our retreat through the Mina, or subterranean passage, whose fine free- stone arch promises to endure as long as ever it may be wanted, and found our posada of a much more comfortable and quiet description than the inns com- monly to be met with. Next morning, just as the girl had brought in our coffee and mutton chops, we learned from the ringing of bells, chaunting, &c., in the street, that a funeral procession was approaching. The chops, therefore, CURIOSITY WELL PUNISHED. 165 were left to cool on the table, while, accompanied by our familiar maritornes, we adjourned to the balcony to observe the sight. It was highly characteristic. The cortege was headed by a boy, bearing a black banner; four youths followed, chaunting the burial service; and to these succeeded persons carrying tapers, crucifixes, incense-vessels, &c. Next came the bier containing the corpse, which, for the purpose of making an impression on the spectators, was exposed to view. It appeared to be that of an elderly person, but constituted an appalling sight, more particularly to persons about to sit down to breakfast. It spoiled the taste of our mutton chops, and even the coffee seemed, to our imagination, to have been cooled in a charnel house. But this was not all. Just as we were preparing to start for the royal monastery, a person came in to inform us that a house was on fire in our neighbour- hood. As conflagrations are not every day to be seen in Spain, except in the north, where the calamity of civil war rages and destroys every thing in its course without discrimination, we for the present postponed our visit to the Escurial, in order to observe how they manage to extinguish a fire in this loyal country. The few regular troops in the neighbourhood, accompanied by the volunteers, had already turned out for the purpose of lending their assistance, whe- ther in putting out the fire, or in plundering the houseless unfortunate, is more than I can say. At any rate, a more dirty and ragged set of vagabonds 166 A SPANISH FIRE. could not most assuredly be found in Europe. They bore off the bell, in this respect, from the military recruits whom we saw drilled at Valladolid ; as also in another respect, being for the most part as thin and lantern-jawed as Don Quixote, while the aforesaid Valladolidians had every appearance of being " fat, ragged, and saucy." We quickly discovered that there were no fire- engines. In fact, such contrivances as these, belong to a people farther advanced in activity, and must therefore be discouraged where the spirit of the good old times is to be kept up. This seemed greatly to the satisfaction and convenience of the flames, — the only things in Spain that are not lazy, — for they spread round, darted forth their tongues like adders, curled, mounted, and drove the smoke before them, as if they intended to devour the whole Peninsula. Meantime the water was some way off*, and had, more- over, to be all carried in the common stone pitchers of the country. It resembled very much the labours of the Danai'des. The more the soldiers whisked their scanty pints of water upon the conflagration, the more it raged, threatened, and looked big. In a short time, the flames communicated from one house to another ; anil the whole village, which was as dry as tinder, might have been reduced to ashes, had not some ingenious old woman, the only person in the place who appeared to have any brains, suggested the propriety of pulling down a house or two between the conflagration and the uncaught houses. To this many objections were made by the owners of the LEARNED WORKS. 167 houses to be demolished, who could not see the pro- priety of sacrificing them to save their neighbours ; but those who were interested constituting a large majority, the hint was no sooner given than it was adopted, and thus the fire was brought to reason by the cutting oflf of its supplies. On this occasion we were more than ever led to admire the fertility of the Spanish soil in watermen, regular and irregular, if there were no firemen with their grand engines ; for I every where found them around the conflagration '* Thick as in spring- the flowers adorn the land. Or leaves the trees." In consequence of this episode in our history, we did not return to the monastic palace till somewhat late in the day, when, instead of continuing the pic- tures, we turned into the library. Here the principal riches consist in the manuscripts, which amount, it is said, to four thousand three hundred, in Greek, Hebrew, Arabic, and Latin. No one, I believe, has ever thoroughly examined them; so that perhaps some ancient works, supposed to be lost, may still exist in this monastery, I mean among the palimpsests, which, I make no doubt, many of them are. To discover this, however, must be the work of a resi- dent, not of flying visitors like ourselves, whose thoughts were too little concentrated upon any one subject, even to allow of our making the best use of the little time we had to bestow. Of this superb manuscript collection nearly six hundred, it is said, are Greek, — probably the most valuable of the whole. Those in Hebrew are few, not 16S MORE LEARNED TREASURES. exceeding sixty-seven ; but in Arabic, Latin, Castilian, &c., the number is very great. Among the leading curiosities in the collection is reckoned the Greek Bible of the Emperor Cantacuzene, with a copy of the Four Evangelists seven hundred years old, mag- nificently embellished with miniatures ; and a Greek Liturgy, supposed by many to have been written by St. Basil. On entering the principal apartment of this library, I was forcibly reminded of a remark of Paulinus a Bartolomeus, who, in treating of Hindoo schools, commends the simplicity of their appearance, and says that in this, at least, they are wiser than some other nations, who seem more solicitous to possess spacious schools than great men. Something similar may here be applied to the Spanish kings, who were certainly more desirous of enshrining in sumptuous cabinets the literature of past ages, than of surround- ing themselves with the quick and breathing creations of men of their own times. The reason, however, may be easily understood. By amassing the works of the dead, clothing them sumptuously, and sur- rounding them with costly decorations, they exhibited their own riches, and obtained, perad venture, a reputation for taste ; but, in calling forth the energies of a new literature, they might indeed be compli- mented for their sagacity in discovering and rewarding genius, but the principal glory would not be theirs. However this may be, — though it be a reflection of no trifling importance, — the grand saloon in which the manuscripts above enumerated are contained, is mag- A BRILLIANT DISPLAY. 169 nificently adorned with fluted Doric columns ; and the roof and frieze are covered with a series of allego- rical designs intended to embody views honourable to the arts and sciences. On a large table in the centre of the apartment, is a miniature octagonal temple, in which Charlemagne is represented surrounded by all his princes and paladins. The design is extremely ingenious, and the execution is not unworthy of the original conception. But, as was intended, the prin- cipal admiration is commonly bestowed on the mate- rials, which are of the richest kind ; the temple itself being constructed of silver, while its ornaments con- sist of gold filigree, lapis lazuli, agates, emeralds, jaspers, diamonds, and other precious stones. The whole expense, as will easily be credited, was very considerable; but the most distinguished monarchs having invariably been the most magnificent and lavish upon matters of this kind, have also been for- tunate enough to obtain the praise of those persons, upon whose shoulders the foundations of such edifices may be said to be raised. It has been justly remarked that the colossal figures on the vaulted ceiling by Tibaldi, the master of Michael Angelo, serve to throw a littleness over the appearance of the book-shelves below, which though of costly wood and beautifully carved, seem insig- nificant in contrast with the vast creations of art by which they may be said to be, as it were, oversha- dowed and eclipsed. In the vacant spaces beneath are paintings by Bartolomeo Carducci, which every tra- veller has observed to be also cast into the shade by 170 PORTRAITS OF ILLUSTRIOUS MEN. the gigantic and often extravagant productions of Tibaldi. In the intermediate spaces between the shelves are the portraits of the fifth Charles, and of the three Philips who succeeded him. The most remarkable is that of Philip the Second, by Panteju de la Cruz. Of this bigoted man we can read the whole character in his countenance : sombre, superstitious, fanatical, cruel ; ungrateful towards his parent, oppressive towards his subjects, disobedient, yet cringing to- wards his Maker; unfit to live, afraid to die, a curse to his country, and a blot upon her history. But enough on this head. In the same hall with the manu- scripts you find such books as the bigotry of the clergy forbids to be read by the profane, and reserves for themselves; well knowing that, whatever they may contain, there can be little fear of its rendering them worse. The walls are hung round with por- traits of Spaniards who, either by their swords or their pens, have rendered themselves illustrious ; and their number is by no means so inconsiderable as one might, under the circumstances of the country, have expected. The stranger, on entering the library of the Escu- rial, is always struck by the singular appearance of the books, that, instead of presenting their backs, as elsewhere, which the Castilians perhaps supposed would have been unpolite where a prince might per- chance sometimes take it into his head to look at them, are all placed the wrong way, and have their titles inscribed at full length on the edge of the leaves. PRECIOUS GEMS. I7l The librarians explain the circumstance differently. They tell the traveller that Arias Montanus, a learned Spaniard of the sixteenth century, whose library served as a nucleus for that of the Escurial, had arranged and titled all his books after this fashion, and afterwards introduced the practice into the royal library, where, for the sake of uniformity, it has ever since been observed. But this is only the old story of the Hindoo, who tells you that the world rests on an elephant, and the elephant on a tortoise, and so on. The question always arises, why did Arias Mon- tanus adopt this plan? At present, perhaps, even those who conform to the practice know no more than we of the true reason of its adoption, and merely follow established custom because it has been esta- blished. But other subjects of greater interest will be found to engage the visitor's attention in this grand emporium of learning. To return, however, to the pictures ; in the sa- cristy we find the celebrated Madonna della Perla, of Eaffaelle, which, having been included in the collection of Charles the First of England, was afterwards sold to the Spanish king, who called it Perla mia^ which has at length become its distin- guishing appellation. Even were it an inferior pro- duction, the name of the artist would ensure it praise from the greater number ; but there are some, ambitious of being thought to see farther than their neighbours, who would not fail to aim at originality by belying the decisions of their judgment. Truth, however, is better than originality. We must 172 HOLY FAMILIES. therefore re-echo the common cry, and join in the praise of our ''Lady of the Pearl." But it is far easier to praise than to describe a picture such as this, where the principal excellence and merit con- sist in an indescribable harmony breathing through the whole composition, and causing itself to be felt rather than perceived, even by the most enlight- ened spectator. The Virgin is represented sitting in an attitude of perfect repose; the infant Christ, whom she supports upon her lap, has one leg carelessly thrown across her knee, while the other rests on a linen garment cast negligently over a cradle. St. Anne, who kneels at her daughter's left side, is represented leaning upon her hand, which is supported on the lap of the Madonna; who, in turn, has placed her left hand upon her mother's shoulder, thus, at the same moment, cherishing her divine son and her own aged parent. The group resulting from this disposition of the figures, combined with the cradle, that symbol of infantine happiness, is one of the most perfect that can be conceived. The acces- saries, likewise, are replete with beauty. Saint John the Baptist, approaching on the right, holds out some fruit in a skin towards Jesus, who, while stretching forth his hand to take the offering, turns round towards his mother with a look of simple and grace- ful joy, such as childhood, perhaps, only knows. The eye, accustomed to Holy Families, still finds some- thing wanting; and looking behind the group, dis- covers St. Joseph apparently moving among ruins. Flowers of rich and varied tints adorn the foreground, INTEHIOT^ DECORATIONS. 173 while a landscape of highly poetical character stretches hack into the distance. Even from this rough in- ventory of its component parts, the reader will be able to perceive something of the nature of the pic- ture ; hut of the beauty inherent in it, language lacks the power to convey a full idea, so harmoniously are the colours blended together, so truly and admi- rably are the lights and shadows distributed, and so full of life, and grace, and nature are the attitudes and the figures. Many other pictures of this collection might justify a detailed description, particularly a Virgin suckling the Infant Christ, by Guido ; our Saviour washing the feet of his Disciples, by Tintoretto ; other Holy Families, by EafFaelle and Andrea del Sarto ; and an Apparition of Christ to Mary Magdalen, by Coreggio ; but we must no longer linger among the treasures of this paradise of art, except to cast a parting glance over their choir and high altar, celebrated for their riches throughout Spain. Projecting from the door into the nave of the church, directly opposite the principal altar, is the choir, the awkward position of which, though in itself it contains much to command admiration, must unquestionably be allowed to diminish the symmetry and beauty of the edifice. What was wanting, how- ever, in simplicity and grandeur of design, the archi- tect has sought to compensate for by the exquisite finish and embellishment of the interior. The wild, but gorgeous and striking pictures of Luca Cambiaso cover the walls and ceilings; but, while we admire 174 OTHER TREASURES DESCRIBED. the masterly execution of this painter, we lament his want of judgment and taste, which led him into absurdities innumerable; for, in his representations of heaven, the angels and beatified spirits, instead of being occupied in peaceful avocations, are ranged in rank and file, like an army drawn up ready for battle. In the centre of the choir stands a magnificent pulpit, constructed of cedar and ebony, resting on four bronze columns, and adorned with numerous ornaments of the same metal. It terminates above in a sort of temple, formed by twelve columns of the Doric order. Two superb rows of stalls, likewise of cedar and ebony, occupy the sides of the choir, and contain two hundred and twenty-eight seats. The upper tier is adorned with fluted columns. You discover the prior's seat placed in the centre of the twelve columns, above which is a picture of Christ bearing his Cross, by Sebastian del Piombo, the artist who painted — from the designs, it is said, of Michael Angelo — the Christ raising Lazarus in the National Gallery. A flight of twelve marble steps leads to the chancel, which is decorated with bronzes, and has its ceiling covered with paintings in fresco. Here are two mag- nificent mausolea, already described. Three doors inwrought with crystal, bronze, and precious stones, lead under an arch into this part of the building, which is divided into three compartments incrusted with marbles of various kinds. Two of these compartments contain altars and altar-pieces ; and here the royal familv, when at the Esciuial, attend divine service. THE TABERNACLE. 175 The high altar consists of four piles of architec- ture. The first of these is adorned by six columns of the Doric order ; an equal number of fluted Ionic pillars form the ornaments of the second ; the third pile has four Corinthian columns; and two of the Composite order surmount the whole. Distributed among this pyramid of pillars are fifteen statues and numerous paintings, of various degrees of excel- lence, which we shall not now pause to describe or enumerate. The centre of the altar is occupied by a circular table of Corinthian architecture, about fifteen feet in height, and seven or eight feet in diameter. This superb table is adorned with statues of the twelve apostles in bronze gilt, and eight pillars of red jasper so exquisitely veigred with white, as to be scarcely distinguishable from the finest Ethiopian or Egyptian agates. The capitals, plinths, medallions, and other ornaments, are also of gilded bronze. This costly and gorgeous structure terminates above in a dome of jasper, which contains a statue of Christ, and a topaz, nearly the size of a man's hand, enchased in a golden rose. Within this tabernacle is placed another, of a square form, constructed entirely of precious stones, and decorated on every side with columns and pilasters, of which the bases and capitals are of gold enamel, and the cornice of silver. The whole is crowned with diminutive pyramidal spires, placed on pedestals of vermilion stone embossed with gold. On either side is a door of rock crystal, studded with gold. This smaller shrine terminates above, like the 176 CHARM OF THE LANDSCAPE. larger one, in a dome, the apex of which is marked externally by an emerald, inserted in a rose of gold ; and, on the inside, by a topaz of exquisite beauty, set in gold enamel. Notwithstanding the costliness of its materials, however, and the elaborateness of the workmanship, this little tabernacle must be regarded merely as a splendid toy, which must be closely examined before the riches of its design and the beauty of its ornaments can be discovered. It appears, too, as if attached to the wall, and loses, from its height from the ground, nearly the whole of its effect. Having passed another night at the village of the Escurial, we next morning set forward at an easy pace for Madrid, our heads still aching, and our memories confused and bewildered by the innume- rable curiosities we had beheld. We knew, however, that a still greater variety of objects was to be encountered at the capital ; but there would be some respite afforded by the journey, the search after lodgings, visiting, &c., so that time would be allowed for our taste for vertu to revive. Our road at first lay through a noble wood, where the deer were continually crossing and recrossing before us, while our eye wandered delightedly through long vistas and wider openings in the forest, until the sight was lost in the distance, or some new object presented to it by our moving forward. A sort of charm, moreover, was cast over the whole landscape by the beauty of the weather, and still more, perhaps, by the lightness of our own spirits caused by the ADDITION TO OUR PARTY. 177 constant exercise and excitement we enjoyed. Every person whom we met or overtook appeared, however, from their happy looks, to be in exactly the same mood, excepting a single horseman, whom we found watering his beast by a brook side. Dressed like a peasant, his low-necked jacket, cloak without cape, slouched hat, breeches, and leggings, hung on him uneasily, as if unacquainted with his limbs. His horse too, though rough and neglected, was powerful and high-mettled, and had evidently been accustomed to good living. Altogether his appearance was such, that we at once concluded either that our friend was one of those knights of the road so common in Spain, or a cavalier from the seat of war, who found it con- venient to approach Madrid in disguise. He saluted us courteously as we came up, and having learned whither we were journeying, expressed a desire to join our party, and proceed under our convoy to the capital. To this arrangement, not- withstanding our suspicions, we of course made no objection ; and he accordingly fell into conversation with Diego, who doubtless let him as far into our history as the extent of his own researches enabled him. From these confidential communications with our muleteer he gradually slided into a tolerably free conversation with us, neither ostentatiously intro- ducing political topics, nor avoiding them. It was soon clear that he was a person somewhat above the common. He was one of those men who, from their intimate acqviaintance with care and misfortune, seem prematurely old. There were wrinkles about his N 178 A VILLAGE BREAKFAST. forehead, and his dark locks were mingled with gray, though he had not reached that period of life when time would of itself have wrought those changes. Conversation with this singular cavalier in the peasant's garb beguiled the tediousness of the way, so that we had already completed the descent of the mountains and found ourselves on the plain, before we thought of bestowing a glance upon the landscape around us. Now, however, on halting and looking back, we were struck with admiration at the scenery of the hills. Skirted with picturesque villages, and covered with immense forests of pines, oaks, and ilexes, they rise gradually, like vast buttresses, against the sierras of Guadarrama, and present the traveller with a series of landscapes of extraordinary interest. We halted to breakfast at the village of Guadar- rama, and instead of patronising, as perhaps we ought, the new hotel, turned into an old-fashioned venta, the landlord of which was evidently a near relation of FalstafT. He was likewise good-humoured as well as fat, and assured us we should breakfast at his venta in as substantial and tasteful a manner as at any parador in Castile. There was truth in what he said. Our breakfast was really excellent, consisting of stewed mutton and tomatas, poached eggs, bread of the whitest and most delicate kind, and, to wash the whole down, some exquisite Val-de-Pefias of the right age. The introduction to all this, which w^ould elsewhere have formed of itself a meal, was composed of several cups of superior chocolate, with those small rolls of the pan pintado^ of which Sancho Panza com- THE HISTORIAN PANZA. 179 memorates the excellences. These delicacies formed a striking contrast with the rude features of the posada ; but we had travelled long enough to be aware that the best fare is not always to be found in the most showy inns. We partook not of all these good things alone. Three other travellers, besides our stray cavalier, sat down along with us, and " entertained each other, while the meal was in progress, with recounting the histories of their lives. If the reader, however, apprehends we intend inflicting them upon him, he is mistaken; though perhaps, were this the proper time and place for the introduction of such narra- tives, he might find them no less amusing than descriptions of Spanish scenery or Spanish palaces. One of these worthies was a friar, who, instead of having spent his better years in shouldering cruci- fixes or telling beads, had devoted them to killing men. In a word, he had been a soldier. His history would make a very good ground-work for a romance ; but as the reader expressed considerable alarm when we first entered on this adventure, lest he should be compelled to listen to three men's lives, narrated by themselves after the manner of Gil Bias, we shall pass it over, merely remarking that our cavalier interrupted him thrice during the developement of it, as if about to propose some correction, but each time checked himself, and apologized for the apparent rudeness. There are but about thirty miles from the Puerto de Guadarrama to Madrid, and of these we had disposed of six before breakfast. We were, there- N 2 180 ROAD TO MADRID. fore, in no violent haste to be gone from our break- fast-table companions, and should doubtless have continued to listen much longer to their amusing and instructive relations, had not our friend, the peasant-cavalier, started up suddenly; and observing that since we seemed to be interested in the history of the travellers, he would take his leave of us there, as business of a pressing nature required his presence that evening in Madrid. Feeling no disposition to part with him, however, we also bade adieu to the story-telling knot, and continued our journey. We had now turned our back on trees and fine scenery, and were fain, for the rest of the way, to admire, or at least tolerate, very homely flats, which, at the proper season of the year, contribute by their rich harvests to support the unprofitable population of Madrid. There was little to amuse us, hence- forward, save such sage reflections as people are apt to make when they have nothing else to employ their wits upon. At length we drew near the Manzanares, and found that its brisk lively current communicated something of its own alertness to our ideas. There were, moreover, many trees upon its banks, and its little shrunk and shrivelled stream which, though sprightly and active, seemed scarcely gifted with force suflicient to turn a mill, was spanned in two places by bridges apparently designed to accommo- date the Tagus at least. However, the absurdity of turning arches of large dimensions over streams so diminutive is more ap- parent than real. They are, in fact, necessary in THE MANZANARES. 181 countries like Spain, which, being intersected in all directions by ridges of mountains, whose summits are often covered with snow, its brooks and rivers receiving their supply from these sources are liable to sudden risings, and would sweep all the bridges before them to the sea, unless constructed with capa- cious arches. These floods over, the streams again sink into insignificant brooks, and on all other occa- sions present a ludicrous image of disproportion between themselves and the bridges which traverse them. The architects, however, wisely provide against these emergencies, though perfectly well aware of the ridiculous appearance their works must commonly present. As we advanced nearer and nearer to the capital, our companion's countenance seemed to assume a darker shade of anxiety, until at length it grew pain- ful to regard him. No effort, — and he evidently was making all he could, — sufficed to conceal the strug- gle, whatever it might be, which was passing within. Had he been going to certain execution, he would hardly have exhibited more outward indications of mental perturbation. It was clear to me that he must be engaged in some conspiracy, of which Spain has long been the constant theatre, and felt, perhaps, very serious misgivings respecting the faith of his associates, or the wisdom of placing his life in their hands. Occasionally, as the road exhibited greater signs of life and bustle, he would rally, and put on a cheerful look ; but the change was momentary, and always ended in increased gloom. 182 AN ANXIOUS TRAVELLER. At short intervals we passed the embouchures of smaller roads, which poured their passengers, mules, carts, waggons, and other vehicles into the great highway, that, like an immense river, went rolling on its living flood towards the capital. Every moment the noise was augmented, and the smoke of cigars along with it. My spirits rose with the growing bustle. Expectation was on tiptoe. Every moment brought us nearer the scene of many a romantic exploit celebrated in those veracious chroniclers, the novelists ; and my imagination was half on fire with a dim forethought of adventure. The crowds which now met the eye on all sides would, with their grotesque exterior, have afforded us matter, under any other circumstances, for remark and observation for a week. On one hand was a party of Gallician muleteers, some singing, others smoking, laughing, or cracking jokes at the foot-passengers, who moved sulkily along under the influence of a warm sun and sultry atmosphere. At a short dis- tance we should overtake a string of laden carts, proceeding with ungreased wheels towards the centre of Spain, creaking so fearfully as they moved along, that I more than once envied the' deaf, if indeed there be any ears that would be deaf in the midst of such piercing sounds. At length, as a light friendly breeze cleared away the clouds of dust in which we had for some time been enveloped, we cast our eyes forward, and beheld the glittering domes and towers of the Spanish me- tropolis rise before us in all their grandeur. Though SILENT PALINODIA. 183 beyond all things addicted to travelling, and delighted witli locomotion, the prospect of a long rest in that renowned city, in the midst of a thousand romantic reminiscences, was quite exhilirating. We were, there- fore, in extremely good humour with every thing around. The road appeared superb, the people gay and affable, and the city, as its beauties one after another unfolded themselves before the eye, seemed worthy of all the praise usually bestowed on it. We now began to recant the unflattering decision we had come to on the top of the mountains of Guadarrama, from whence Madrid seemed a place of very trifling importance. No one, however, heard us chaunt our palinodia, nor would any person have listened had we chaunted it ever so loud ; for, as near all capitals, every man, woman, and child here appeared to be absorbed in the consideration of their own importance. We proceeded therefore in silence, feasting, in ima- gination, on all the sights we were to behold, and all the mirth, extravagance, and other good things we expected to enjoy; and in this temper approached the termination of our journey. CHAPTER VIII. ROUTK AND ENTRANCE TO MADRID. A pleasant Prospect — Diego's good Humour — View of Madrid — Character of tlie Scene — jNatioual Groupes — Philosophy of Travel — Political Strictures — Gravities and Gaieties — Our solemn Procession — Gate of Fuencarral — Street of San Ber- nardo — Custom-house Officers — Varieties — National Charac- teristics — Ranks — Causes of suffering and degradation of the People — Exterior View of the Royal Palace — Unexpected Meeting — German Dialogue — an Adventure — the German's Tale — Visit to the Prado — the Royal Palace — Botanic Garden — Museum, &c. It is surprising what buoyancy and lightness of step are infused into man and mule by a near view of some church spire, the sound of a sheep-bell, — re- newing ideas of coolness and a good supper, — of any thing, in short, which awakens associations connected with the Spanish posada, towards the close of a long and wearisome route over the Castilian plains. It was now some time since we had reached the dead level flat, at once elevated, monotonous, and desolate — one of the least pleasant characteristics of central Spain, and which, contrasted with the glories of the southern and western vegas, makes one imagine its old invaders must have imported some part of their burn- ing desert with the arts and arms of the East. APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. 185 Along with the vast barrier mountains, valleys, pass, and dreary wild, without a tree, a hamlet, or a farm to give an idea of even vegetable life, we had at length also left the seat of war behind us. The vivacity of Diego, for a Spaniard, grew quite amusing, and he bore the jests of all upon the sudden loss of that seriousness and dignity becoming a mayoral^ when danger frowns from behind some olive-bush, with infinite ease and good humour. Madrid, with all its magnificence, its treasures of learning and of art, its excitements and its solem- nities, lay before us ; and not one of us but felt momentarily happy in the prospect of exchanging the more laborious progress of our way for the com- paratively dignified ease and the lion-seeing of this most princely of southern capitals. Yet there is nothing, till we draw very near, which at all conveys the impression of being in the immediate vicinity of the most wealthy among modern cities, belonging to a once great and victorious people. A barren half- cultivated soil, without shade or verdure, wretched inns, an air of desertion and almost savageness of aspect, mark the country nearly as far as the banks of the Manzanares, of which the superb bridge first raises the expectation of something better at hand, though one could scarcely help asking the rather puzzling question of, '-'- where is the river?" at least one any way meriting the embrace of so bold a bridge, or to throw grace round the approach to a royal residence. Our next view of Madrid, — from an eminence in the 186 EFFECT OF DISTANT VIEW. vicinity, — with its forest of spires, its golden domes and peculiar towers, seen through the deep clear sun-light of a brilliant evening which brought every object in closer contact with the eye, was certainly picturesque, but it is one already too often dwelt upon to call for repetition; and I know of no description more than another which succeeds in impressing a feeling of the reality upon the mind, which, like the eye, must rest on the long dark outline of the Guadarrama chain, so richly contrasting with the variety and splendour of the objects more near, to appreciate any thing like the effect of such a scene. It is the same with the capital itself; it must be seen to form an idea of its interior character and appearance : while other splendid cities have fallen into the obscurity of deserted villages, it towers with so bold and proud a look from its desert plain, — an arid and ungrateful soil, — as to put all attempts at mere description out of countenance. On your approach, you look around in vain for the usual signs of some great metropolis — the heart of a wide-spread land ; but it bursts at once, as it were, upon the sight, a strange, boldly grouped, and almost confused mass of magnificence, brought sudden as some oriental palace by the genii's wand from the centre of the dismal wild. No succession of lordly woods and castles, — ^no bright gay environs, teeming with luxuriant gardens, groves, and fountains, — the blooming vega, with smiling fields and pastures such as ought to adorn the estates and villas of men who succeeded the conquerors of the luxurious Moors. ENTRANCE INTO THE CITY. 187 From the stately gate of Fuencarral, opening on the Segovian road, you behold on one side the bare unbroken flat, extending far beyond the bridge erected by the celebrated Herrera in the reign of the second Philip ; on the other, all the gorgeous pomp and circumstance of stately towers, and gates, and squares, the very names of which have a full oriental sound that makes you gaze on the rich and splendid architecture which surrounds the Plaza Major, the Gate of the Sun, and the noble street of Alcala, with more than common regard. Our drooping spirits began to revive the nearer we drew nigh the ancient gate of Fuencarral. And we now seemed to attract the attention of various groupes lounging to and fro — as numerous, but not as busy as bees — pouring in and out of the great hive, where the drones, as in most capital cities, invariably feast upon the labourers' honey. Here were specimens enough to make the most sedate of unadmiring philosophers wonder at the many Proteus shapes that can be assumed by that most indescribable of biped animals, called man. Amusingly characteristic of every thing Spanish, no succession of mummers and mimers could more decidedly fix your attention than that of the different parties who throng the public resorts on a fine evening, such as it now was, and who, by their diver- sity of pursuits, manners, and dress, admirably illus- trate the poet's idea, that '' motley is your only wear." Mingled with the modern Madrid majos and maias of aristocratic ton and tourneur^ were seen the old mustachioed dons, officers of the line or the 188 FEMALE CHARACTERISTICS. national guards, more proud and fiery in look than firm and decided in the field ; here and there a knot of citizens in earnest converse — on the last lies from the army — the fall of the old ministers — the rise of the new; a civilian or provincial sent fresh from the provinces, not to make laws, but to humour the notion of a popular constitution, follow^ hard by some mechanic, deputed perhaps to furbish up the Chamber of Proceres as some little counterpoise to the high-soaring democracy of the day, and the grandiloquent menaces of ministers, who might other- wise annihilate their enemies at a single blow; and many an Othello's occupation, in the art of scheming and corruption, be entirely and for ever gone. Again as we threaded the gay and spacious street of San Bernardo, the veiled beauties in twos and threes were bending their way amid '' signs, and becks, and wreathed smiles" to keep their appointments at the Prado or elsewhere ; escorted by the elite of the brave gallanting guards to the new play, the carnival, a bull- fight, or high mass, just as the time or the humour might prescribe. Here the streets and shops seemed to teem with all imaginary products :— wares of every variety, for wants and convenience no less than luxury and parade ; fruit-women of every colour and pitch of voice, with shapes straight as an arrow and jet black eyes, — ^half Spanish languor and half Moorish fire, and as Lord Byron has said of their more aristocratic countrywomen — we had like to have said sisters — "at once mystical and gay." Then the robuster water- men in their quaint dress and style of serving one of MADEID DANDIES. 189 the greatest luxuries of the capital, and joining in the little Babel of shrill sounds, strange at first to any- English ear, with all the rich gusto that a thirsty man could partake of the favourite beverage they so unwea- riedly ply. It is still old Tantalus's cry of Water, water !" and very properly, to obtain an answer, they take care to add, ^' Who drinks, who drinks?" The water however long in keg or skin is ever " fresh and cold;" the chestnuts are just as '^hot and fat;" the oranges and eggs as cheap as- the most fastidious customer could desire. Nor was it less characteristic of the industry of the people to observe the easy dignified way in which even the sturdy Gallician carrier contrived to get along ; the slow or sulky Asturian as leisurely filled his vessels at the fountain, stopping like many less busied passen- gers to gaze at our solemn progress, for it was become sad and solemn from sheer fatigue ; so that between our steady pace, and the numerous vehicles flying now to this side and to that, the foot-goers — in par- ticular the tight -laced and booted dandies if they had any fair object in their eye — ran a woful risk of bespattering, or complete demolition. From the entrance to Madrid, by the gate of Fuen- carral, the coup d'ceil over the street of San Bernardo, its numerous curious and handsome edifices, with the royal palace, the no distant church of San Isidore, the grand street of Alcala opening far beyond, with an infinite variety of spires, towers, domes, and spacious courts and squares, is at once brilliant and impressive. Not such, however, was the appearance of our motley 190 DIFFERENT PROFESSIONS. cortege ; we might well be termed indeed a diligence by the pace and perseverance with which we '* wound our toilsome march " towards the long wished-for Fonda de San Bernardo, now prayed for with the zeal of all the saints put together by our good Diego, as if it had been the very seventh heaven instead of his earthly inn of rest. But we had a visit yet to encounter, only less disagreeable than one from the Carlists; for it was from custom-house officers, the very antipodes of your ancient contrabandistas, and smugglers of all times, — and as extremes of party, like other extremes, mostly meet, there was little to choose between the politeness of the two professions as regarded us. And it would have been no slight task to haul us regularly over, unpack and ransack our various and piebald equipages ; for we had been joined the latter part of our way, for the sake of general sociality and security from flying bands — those light-fingered squadrons of the hills, — not only by travellers and trains of mules, but by private equi- pages and no trivial escort of horsemen. In short we had the look of having come fresh from a mountain skirmish, in which we had had the worst, or as fresh from the dust of La Mancha, by the length of our own faces at the sight of the anti-contrabands as we entered the court-yard, and by the no less elongated necks, the downcast air of our steeds, and the soiled, red pulverized, travel- worn aspect of our whole reti- nue. The process of examination of any kind, es- pecially a man's goods and chattels, is none of the pleasantest in the world, and the Spanish are a wise HOW TO CUT A FIGURE. 191 people not to lend themselves to the performance of so tedious and annoying an operation when they once fairly understand you. No people, of all ranks, are more amenable to the authority of reason, if placed in a taking point of view ; though we felt much the same as if we had had the honour of paying an involuntary contribution to the bullets of some brigands. As we entered the court of the inn, the contrast we cut with a sprightly and brilliant company of the guards, or the " Queen's Own," just passing on their mettlesome bloods, with shining helm and rich ac- coutrements, made the very passengers smile as they looked on ^'this picture and on that;" and our bold mayoral, for his credit- sake, gave his leader a sharp touch in the flank, as much as to say, " we are not so completely done up, my fine fellows, as you seem to think." But it was the magnanimous effort of a high- minded mule, for no sooner had the soldiers gone by, than he stood stock still ; and his master, throwing himself off, thanked heaven and San Jago with a fer- vour quite edifying to travellers, after surmounting all the perils of the high-ways and by-ways of a country in the singular condition of Spain. The weary beasts, with panting sides and outstretched heads, followed the guide, and ranged themselves with military precision in order to undergo the willing operation of unpacking and applying themselves to food and rest. It was an example not lost upon their masters ; and the whole -of the travellers of different ranks, bag and baggage, betook themselves to the interior of the new hotel, which rising from the simple venta^ through the 192 STUDY OF CHARACTER. meson and the posada^ has at last reached the most dignified appellation of all, — the modern ybw 7Z'' 756243 OPzQ /f7 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY