A GENERAL ACCOUNT 
 
 OF ALL 
 
 I ■ 
 
 THE RIVERS OF NOTE 
 
 IN 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
r y/y/M^J/J, ^^^//vv ^W^'fi^ tM///M/:t^ , a//^ 
 

A GENERAL ACCOUNT 
 
 OF ALL 
 
 THE RIVERS OF NOTE 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN; 
 
 ■WITH THEIR 
 
 SEVERAL COURSES, THEIR PECULIAR CHARACTERS, 
 THE COUNTRIES THROUGH WHICH THEY FLOW, 
 
 AND 
 
 THE ENTIRE SEA COAST OF OUR ISLAND ; 
 Concluding with a minute Description of 
 
 THE THAMES, 
 
 AND ITS VARIOUS AUXILIARY STREAMS. 
 
 By HENRT I SERINE, Esq.LL.B. 
 
 OF WARLEY IN SOMERSETSHIRE, 
 
 Author of three successive Tours in the North of Englaad and Scotland 
 
 ^" ^795> ^"<i two successive Tours in South and 
 
 North Wales in I75y. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 PRINTED BY T. BENSLEY, BOLT COURT, FLEET STREET 
 FOR p. ELMSLY IN THE STRAND. 
 
 1801. 
 
T) Prions 
 ^-1 
 
 GIF7 cr 
 DWARUS A KOFOJD 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 All that regards the plan of this work, 
 and the course pursued in tracing the 
 rivers of Great Britain, being included in 
 the introductory chapter, little is required 
 to be said by way of preface, except what 
 includes fuch apologies as the author 
 may think necessary for his stile. 
 
 The notes from which these descrip- 
 tions were extracted are few, and such as 
 were taken in the successive travels of 
 various years, the author having rather 
 depended on his memory and observation, 
 than on any written documents of his 
 own, except in some particular points. 
 A manifest variation in the mode of 
 expression naturally arises from this cir- 
 
 M169371 
 
VI PREFACE. 
 
 cumstancc, and it is sometimes intro- 
 duced purposely as the subjects them- 
 selves change, to prevent the tedious uni- 
 formity which would result from all the 
 objects being treated with the same mo- 
 notonous similarity of description. The 
 number and the person are also altered in 
 the same manner, and for the same 
 reason, as in the author's former works ; 
 but the deviations from the present tense 
 are from the nature of this pursuit less 
 frequent. It seems also requisite to de- 
 precate the censure that may critically 
 be thought due, for such repetition of 
 epithets and other words, with various 
 other inaccuracies, which, on ample re- 
 vision, may have yet escaped the notice 
 of one, whom even experience has failed 
 to render adroit in correcting for the press. 
 In the extensive line pursued by this 
 work, and in the comprehensive treat- 
 
JP R £ F AC E. Vii 
 
 ment of the whole, the author would 
 place its only claim to mdrit, for few have 
 had the leisure or patieiice to intersect 
 alftiost the whole of our island so fre- 
 quently. Perhaps, nothing but the de- 
 gree of health he at times recovered, 
 and of pleasures he always found from 
 these scrutinies, (which would tire out 
 the perseverance of many,) could have 
 kept up a sufficient degree of anima- 
 tion and interest, especially when the 
 subject happened to be trite and dry, or 
 the weather adverse. Neither can he, 
 after all his pains, flatter his vanity with 
 the idea of having executed any thing 
 like a perfect picturesque survey ; being 
 aware that various points may have mis- 
 led him, especially in the disputed ori- 
 gins, as well as the sudden turns and oc- 
 casional bearings of rivers ; but these can 
 hardly be of much consequence, as he 
 
vni PREFACE. 
 
 has laboured to be correct in the general 
 line of their course, and the delineation 
 of their particular features. The descrip- 
 tive parts must always in a great degree 
 depend on the medium through which 
 their subjects were seen, on which 
 weather, and accidental bursts of light 
 and shade, as well as time of day, have 
 a strong influence occasionally. 
 
 Want of good local information has 
 in some distant points created a per- 
 plexity ; and in the northern extremity of 
 our island, which is very difficult of ac- 
 cess throughout, the best oral and tradi- 
 tional information that could be obtained, 
 has been resorted to, together with such 
 maps and local publications as the authot 
 has recommended in his former travels, 
 or met with since, as relating to the 
 present object of his pursuit. 
 
PREFACE. IX 
 
 The author is under great obligation to 
 a lady for the drawing of the vignette, 
 which is affixed as a frontispiece to this 
 work ; its intention is to shew the River 
 God of the Thames, supported by Vaga, 
 (Goddess of the Wye) in the Welch 
 dress, and Tava (Goddess of the Tay) in 
 the Scottish dress, presenting a chart of 
 Great Britain, intersected by its rivers, 
 to Neptune, with the attendant scenery 
 of cliffs, and a fleet in the back ground. 
 The remaining engravings are maps, each 
 of which is designed to accompany its 
 appropriate chapter, after the manner of 
 those which Dr. Aikin affixed to each of 
 
 the counties of England in his excellent 
 work. They are necessarily irregular in 
 
 their figures, from the various and une- 
 qual ground covered by the rivers des- 
 cribed in each chapter; neither are they 
 meant to be such perfect delineations as 
 
 ^3 
 
X PREFACE. 
 
 a survey would require, but merely in- 
 tended to supply the place of an index 
 by attracting the eye directly to the po- 
 sition of the streains described, foy a 
 more perfect display of which, a reference 
 may easily be made to more finished m^ps. 
 The first map should face the second 
 chapter, and each afterwards attend its 
 approximate chapter. 
 
 It should be previously mentioned, re- 
 lative to the course pursued in this work, 
 that it begins in Essex, from the mouth 
 of the Thames, ascending northward to 
 the extremity of Scotland, and descend- 
 ing by the western coast of North Britain. 
 It follows afterwards the western coasts 
 of England and Wales, to the Land*s End 
 in Cornwall, compassing afterwards the 
 southern and the eastern coasts to the 
 junction of the Mcdway and the Thames, 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 C H A p. I. 
 
 Cteneral introduction to the work. — Observations 
 which induced the author to undertake it. — Plan 
 of the courfe of inquiry and defcription to be pur- 
 sued — Different character of the rivers on the 
 eaftern and western coasts of Great Britain — DifE- 
 Ctuky !of exploring or defcribing the Northern Pen- 
 insula — Entire compass of the island to the mouth 
 of the Thames. — Reasons for being more minute 
 and diffuse in the description of that river than any 
 of the former. —Attempt to avoid repetition and 
 introduce variety in treating of the streams already 
 described by the author, or in recapitulating those 
 circumstances which are incidental to all rivers. — 
 Apology for dwelling on some particular spots, and 
 introducing the names of some respectable and 
 highly-esteemed characters, who have inhabited 
 them p. I — i^ 
 
 C H A P. II. 
 
 Rivers of Essex northward of the Thames — The 
 
 Blackwater and Chelmer. — The Colne. — The Stour. — 
 
 Rivers of Suffolk and Norfolk. — The Orwell, The 
 
 Dtben and the Jlde, The fVaveny and the Tare, — 
 
 a4 
 
Xll CONTENTS. 
 
 General account of the coast of Essex, SufFolk, 
 and Norhlk.^The Great and Little 0«^^.— Rivers 
 of Cambridgeshire, Huntingdonshire, and Lin- 
 co\m\m&.—TheCam.—TheNcn.—ThePVelland.'-^ 
 The IVttham.^ Great Bay of Lynn Deeps, and the 
 Washes p. 14 — 94 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 The Trent, and its various component flreams, viz. 
 The Blythe, The Tame, The Dove, The Derivent^ 
 The Soar, The Erwash, and the Idle, — The An- 
 cholme of Lincohifhire. — The three divifions of 
 that country into the H^olds, the Heath, and the 
 Fens, with a general account of the two former, 
 the latter having been before noticed in describing 
 its pervading rivers ,....» p. 35 — 54 
 
 C H A P. IV. 
 
 Congress of the rivers of Yorkshire, which unite with 
 the Trent and Anchoime to form the Humber. — The 
 Don, The Calder, The Aire, The Wharf, The Nedd, 
 The Ure, The Swale, forming at last The Not t hern 
 Ouse, which combines all these streams — Junction 
 of the Dcrivcnt from the north-east. — Grand aestu- 
 ary of the Humber produced by the general union. 
 ■—Cursory description of the Yorkshire coast, from 
 the mouth of the Humber to that of the Tees \v\ 
 Duiham p. 55—74 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Rivers of Durham. — The Tees, The Wcare, and the 
 Dervjcnt, — Coast of Durham. — Rivers of Nor- 
 
CONTENTS. xik 
 
 thumberland. — The Tyne^ The Blythe^ The Coquet^ 
 The Alne^ and the Till. — Coast of Northumber- 
 Jand. — Boundary rivers between England and Scot- 
 land.^ — The Tiv'iot and the Tweed .... p. 75 — 91 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Coast of Scotland from Berwick on Tweed Xothe Firth 
 of Forth. — Rivers of Scotland north of the Tweed 
 and the Tiv'iot. — Course, and general character of 
 the Forth and its auxiliary streams, with the display 
 of Edinburgh from its Firth— The Leven^ and the 
 Eden of' Fife-shire, and the coast of that county 
 from the Firth 0/ Forth to the Firth ofTay. — The 
 Tay of Perthshire and its component streams. — 
 Its Lake and its Firth. — Rivers of Angus. — The 
 South and North Esk. — The Bervieo^ Kincardine. — 
 Rivers of Aberdeenshire.— T'/^^- Dee, The Don, The 
 Tethan, and the Ugie.~The D ever on of Bamffshire. 
 The Spey -^The Findhorn.- — The Nairn p. 92 — 112 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Eastern coast of Scotland from the Firth of Tay to 
 the extreme point of Kinnaird in Aberdeenshire, 
 and northern coast from thence to the entrance 
 oi the Murray Firth, forming one side of the great 
 north-east bay. — The Ness of Inverness-shire, and 
 its Loch. — The Beauley of Ross-shire, and its Firthy 
 communicating with the Murray Firth. —The 
 northern Peninsula of Scotland. —The Orron-IVatery 
 forming the beautiful Firth of Cromartie. — The 
 Firth of Dornoch, — The Fieety The Brora, and the 
 
Xiv CONTENTS. 
 
 Helmsdaie of Sutherland, — The eastern coast of 
 Caithness to Duncansby Head, and John a Groat's 
 House, forming the extreme northern promontory. 
 Northern coast to the Bay of Dunnett, and the 
 river of Thurso with its town. Dreary aspect ot 
 the coast to the north-west, terminating in Cape 
 Wrath. — Western coast of Sutherland, Ross-shire, 
 and Inverness-shire, opposite to the Hebrides or 
 Western Islands, intersected by salt-water lochs, 
 but without any rivers of note, to the bottom of 
 the Northern Peninsula p. 113 — 132 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 The Spean of Inverness-shire, terminating in Loch 
 Lochyy and Loch Linnh)^ at the separation of that 
 county from Argyleshire. — The Awcy and the Aray 
 of tliat county, with the long neck of land called 
 the Mull of Cantire, stretching out towards Ireland. 
 Loch-Lomond^ and the Leven issuing from it to the 
 Firih of Clyde. — The Clydc^ and its branches.— 
 The Irvine^ The Ayr, The Doon, The Girvan, and 
 the Stlncher, of Ayrshire. — The extreme south- 
 western point of the Mull of Galloway, below 
 Port-Patiick, and opposite to Ireland and the Isle 
 of Man. — The Luce and the Creeoi Wigtownshire, 
 ^The Flecty The Dee, and the Orr of Kirkud- 
 bright. — 7hc Nith, The Anfian, The Sarke, and 
 the Eske of Dumfriesshire, contributing to form, 
 on the Scottish side, the great aestuary of the Solway 
 Firth, dividing the coasts of England and Scotland 
 towards the western sea p. J 33 — 153 
 
CONTENTS. Xr 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 Rivers of England communicating with the western 
 sea. — The Eden of Cumberland, forming the great 
 Solzvay Firth on the side of England. — The Waver, 
 terminating the Loch of Kilbride. — The Caldezv^ 
 and the Ellen. — The Derwent, — The Ehen. — The 
 Esk. — The Duddcn^ the Crake, and the Leven of 
 Lancashire — The Kent of Westmorland. — The 
 Lune, The Wyre^ and the Ribble of Lancashire. — 
 Junction of the Irwell and the Mersey with their 
 branches, and their course to the great trading 
 towns of Manchester, Warrington, and Liverpool. 
 — The fVever of Cheshire. — The Dee ^vom. North 
 Wales to Chester, and its great asstuary. — Coast 
 of C>umberland, Lancashire, and Cheshire, from 
 the mouth of the Eden to those of the Mersey and 
 the Dee p. 154 — 1 73 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Rivers of Wales beyond the Dee. — The Clwydd, and 
 the Elwy .-^The Ogwen. — The Seiont of Caernar- 
 von. — Coast of North Wales from the mouth of 
 the Dee to the Menai Straits, opposite to Anglesea, 
 and the extreme horn of Caernarvonshire at Por- 
 tborion head, opposite to Bardsea Island —Great 
 bay of Cardigan to St. David's Point at the extre- 
 mity of Pembrokeshire, and its rivers, belonging to 
 North and South Wales, viz. The G-wynedd, The 
 Drwydd, The Mawdoch and Avon, The Dovcy, or 
 Dyffi, The Rhydol, The Tstwith, 'The Eiron, and 
 the Tivy p. j 7^^193 
 
XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 Milford Haven, and its various branches. — The 
 Taave. — The Towey of Caermartlienshire. — The 
 Lwghor. — The Lower Taave, The Neath, The 
 Taaffe, and /^^i^/??r«;?z«^^ of Glamorganshire. — The 
 Uske of Breconshire and Monmouthshire. — Coast 
 of South Wales from St. David's Head in Pem- 
 brokeshire, to the mouth of the Wye below Chep- 
 stowe in Monmouthshire, extending along the 
 whole Bristol Channel, opposite to the coast of Corn- 
 wall, Devonshire, and Somenetshire p. 194 — 212 
 
 CHAP. XIT. 
 
 The Wye, and its tributary streams. — viz. The Eilon, 
 The Irthcn, The Creivyn, The Lkvcnny, The Lugg, 
 and the Monowe, — The Severn, its sources, and 
 three assistant rivers, viz. The Tcme of Shropshire, 
 the Upper Avon of Warwickshire, and the Lower 
 Avon of Somersetshire - p. 213 — 242 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Great swell of the coast of Somersetshire between 
 the Avon and the Axe. — Rivers of Somersetshire 
 below the Avon. — The Taw, The Axe, The Brue, 
 The Barrett, and the Thone. — Rivers of the north 
 of Devonshire. — The Taw, and the Torridge, with 
 
 ■ their ports and basins of Barnstaple and Biddeford. 
 — The Bude, The Camel, and the Hey I, in the north 
 of Cornwall. — Coast of Somersetshire, Devon- 
 shire, and Cornwall, from the commencement of 
 
CONTENTS. xvii 
 
 the Bristol Channel at King-road to the Land's 
 End, and from tbence to Plymouth Sound — 
 Southern rivers of Cornwall. — The Loe, The Hel^ 
 The Fal, The Free water. The Fowey, and the Looe, 
 —-The Tamar of Devonshire and Cornwall, termi- 
 nating in Plymouth Harbour and Sound, with its va- 
 rious branches, viz. The Helscot, The Tavy, The 
 Tidi, and the Plym p. 243 — 367 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Rivers of Devonshire eastward of the Tamar. — The 
 Tealme, Erme, and Aven — The Dart, The Teign^ 
 The Ex, The Otter, The Syd, and the ^;f^.— Rivers 
 of Dorsetshire.— The Char, The Eype, The Wey, 
 The Froome, and the Stoure. — The Hampshire, and 
 JT' tit shire Avon, — The Anton, The Test, and the 
 Itchin, uniting at last to form the Southampton river. 
 
 p. 268 — 292 
 C H A P. XV. 
 
 The coast of Devonshire, Dorsetshire, and Hamp- 
 shire, from Plymouth Sound to Portsmouth Harbour, 
 Rivers of Sussex. — The Arun, The Adur, The Ouse, 
 The Cockmare, and the Rot her, — Rivers of Kent. — 
 The Stoure. — The Medway. — The coast of Hamp- 
 shire, Sussex, and Kent, from Portsmouth Harbour 
 to the mouth of the Thames p. 293 — 317 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 The Thames, and its auxiliary streams. -^Unctrtain ori- 
 gin of the Lis, its principal branch. — Reputed to 
 be a small stream on the northern border of Wilt- 
 
XVili CONTENTS. 
 
 shire. — Its passage through a small part of Glo- 
 cestershire and most of Oxfordshire, joined by- 
 several lesser rivulets, and the EvenlodencdiX Wood- 
 stock. — Grand view of Oxford from its banks.-— 
 Junction oi the Cherwell below that city. — First 
 view of the Chiltern Hills. — Union of the Thame 
 with the Lis, thus constituting its classic name of 
 Thamcsis. — Eeautiful country which the Thames 
 traverses, forming also the principal object of it, in 
 its passage through Oxfordshire, Berkshire, and 
 Buckinghamshire, by Reading, Henley, Marlow, 
 and Maidenhead. — Junction of the Kennett from 
 I^ioith Wiltshire at Reading, with an account of 
 the country pervaded by that river. — Accession of 
 the Loddon from the northern border of Hamp- 
 shire, and a small stream from High Wycombe in 
 Buckinghamshire, with the interesting character of 
 some seats and families in the vicinage of Beacons- 
 field. — Cjreat change of country in descending into 
 the flat below Maidenhead. — Mimic display of 
 Monkey Island. — Superb approach to Eton College 
 and Windsor Castle, backed by the hills of Wind- 
 sor Forest and Park p. 318 — 346 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 The Thames, and its auxiliary streams, continued.— 
 Vast plain traversed by the Thames below Windsor. 
 — Cooper's Hill, Runny Mead, Egham, Stanes, 
 and Laleham. — Mr. Fox's scat on St. Anne's Hill 
 near Chcrtscy. — Fine prospect from that eminence. 
 —Still greater view from the ridge of St George 'i 
 
CONTENTS. JCiX 
 
 Hill. — Junction of the Colne and the Wey with the 
 Thames. — Woborn Farm. — Lord Portmore's seat 
 at Weybridge. — The Duke of York's fine place 
 of Oatlands and its Grotto.— Ashley Park. — Wal- 
 ton on Thames, and the villas on its Common.-— 
 Walton Bridge, and the adjacent seat of Lord 
 Tankerville. — Descent of the Thames to Sunbury 
 and Hampton. — The late Mr. Garrick's villa, and 
 Temple of Shakespeare. — Hampton Court Palace, 
 its Garden, and its Parks, — Junction oi the Mole 
 of Surry with the Thames. — The peculiar character 
 of that romantic river, its winding course, and the 
 seats and towns which adorn its banks — Thames 
 Ditton. — Kingston. — Ham. — Petersham. — Superb 
 villas about Twickenham, Isleworth, and Rich- 
 mond. — Delightful view from Richmond Hill. — 
 Richmond Park, and the site of its Palace and 
 Gardens p. 347 — 379 
 
 CHAP, xviir. 
 
 The Thames, and its auxiliary streams, concluded.— 
 Sion House. — Osterley. — Accession of the Brent. 
 Brentford. — Kew Bridge — Its Palace and Gardens. 
 ■ — Great increase oi the Thames on the accession of 
 the tide, and the union of almost all its component 
 streams above London. — Chiswick — Hammer- 
 smith — Putney and Fulham, with their Bridge. — 
 Great ridge adorned with the villas of Roehampton, 
 Putney Heath, and Wimbledon Common, with 
 their various views — The Vandal {rom Croydon.— 
 Wandsworth and Clapham, with its Common. — 
 
XX CONTENTS. 
 
 Battersea and its Bridge, — Chelsea and its College. — 
 Gardens of Ranelagh and Vauxhall. — Magnificent 
 approach to London hy the river. — Grand display 
 of the capital of England from Westminster and 
 Black- Friars Bridges — London Bridge and its 
 shipping,. — Union of the Lea with the Thames — 
 The Isle of IDogs. — Deptford. — Greenwich and 
 its Hospital, with its Park. — Woolwich. — Exten- 
 sive view from Shooter's Hill. — Finely-featured 
 prospect towards the interior of Kent. — Mr. Pitt's 
 elevated seat on Holwood Hill. — The Roding of 
 Essex, with the Cray and the Dart of Kent. — Ex- 
 tension of the marshes as the Thames advances 
 towards the sea. — Tilbury Fort and Gravesend. — 
 The Fortress of Sheerness in the Isle of Shepey, at 
 the mouth of the Thames and the Medway. — Pecu- 
 liar character of the Thames^ and short re-capitula- 
 tion of the several objects which create its im- 
 portance c p. 380 — 412 
 
 ERRATA. 
 
 Page J 2 and 23, instead of EytCy read J^zix, 
 
 ■■ 82, a parenthesis round (the southern) to be erased. 
 
 . ■'■ ' 1 1 7, instead of Torhet N£ss, read Tarbet Ness, 
 
 • 160, ■ ■ FarnesSf read Furncss. 
 
 ■'-■' '96, Habberston Haiken, rzzA Hubberston Halkin, 
 
 239, " Shockav'tckf read Sbockerw'tck. 
 
 * 311, Hurstmoncea Castle, read Hurstmonceux* 
 
 ^— 3*2, ■■ Toiuers of BUnke'imi read tbe Towers. 
 
RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 OF 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 CHAPTER L 
 
 General introductmt to the work — Obser- 
 vations which induced the Author to un-r 
 dertake it — Plan of the course of inquiry 
 and description to he pursued — Different 
 character of rivers on the eastern and 
 western coasts of Great Britain — Diffi^ 
 culty of exploring or describing the north- 
 ern peninsula — Entire compass of the 
 island to the mouth of the Thames— 
 Reasons for being more minute and diffuse 
 in the description of that river than any 
 of the former — Attempt to avoid repeti- 
 tion and introduce variety in treating of 
 the streams already described by the 
 B 
 
2 RITERS AND COAST 
 
 Author y or in recapitulating thofs cir* 
 cumstances which are incidental to all 
 rivers — Apology for dwelling on some 
 particular spots, and i?itroducing the 
 names of some respectable and highly 
 esteemed characters who have iyihahited 
 them. 
 
 Perhaps there is no flattery so impos- 
 ing on the htunan mind, or so seductive, 
 as that which an author (however trivial 
 his pretensions may be) receives from his 
 friends, for it seldom fails to animate 
 him to fresh attempts, and lead him to 
 explore a new and wider field of action. 
 Gratified by such partiality expressed to- 
 wards my former publications by persons 
 for whose character and judgment I have 
 the highest esteem, I am once more in- 
 duced to venture my fragile bark on the 
 sea of literature, and explore a chan- 
 nel never yet fully and comprehensively 
 tried. 
 
 It has often occurred to me in the 
 course of my extensive travelling, that 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 3 
 
 the banks of rivers and the heights which 
 command them almost exclusively mo- 
 nopolize the beauty, and compose the 
 characteristic features, of every country ; 
 the nature of the stream and its sur- 
 rounding objects deciding the qualities 
 of romantic scenery, rich plains and pas- 
 tures, abundant manufactures, and con- 
 sequent population. Great cities also are 
 seldom elsewhere placed ; the fine seats 
 of our nobility flourish most on these 
 stations ; the castle, whose proud ruins 
 we contemplate, generally commanded 
 these passes, and the ivied abbey always 
 depended on its contiguous stream. 
 The spire of the rustic village no where 
 looks so pleasing, nor have woods ever so 
 strong an effect, as on the banks of rivers ; 
 the progress also of navigation, and the 
 increase of a large stream to an a^stuary, 
 present great variety of scenery, and the 
 ports which generally grace its exit to 
 the sea, with their attendant shipping, 
 form interesting objects. 
 
 Reflecting on these circumstances, a 
 
4 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 thought often suggested itself to me, that 
 a comprehensive and systematic descrip- 
 tion of all the rivers in our island might 
 prove a useful and entertaining work, 
 giving a concise but exact account of 
 their courses, their generally- attendant 
 circumstances, their peculiar characters, 
 as distinguished from each other, and 
 the scenery which decorates their banks. 
 This has been partially done by several 
 ingenious writers, and in their highly- 
 finished publications particular streams 
 have been thoroughly investigated with 
 more success than I could hope to attain 
 without the correspondent aid of the 
 pencil ; among these Mr. Gilpin's work 
 on the Wye, and Mr. Ireland's on the 
 Thames, justly claim the pre-eminence. 
 There have also been numerous and well 
 executed surveys of the kingdom, both 
 ancient and modern, some of which are 
 voluminous, and others concise ; of the 
 latter order, is a work entitled " England 
 Delineated," by Dr. Aikin, with appro- 
 priate maps of the several counties, in- 
 
 7 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^ 
 
 tended for the use of young persons, 
 which fell in my way just aftef I had 
 finished this book, and gave me much 
 pleasure. All these, among their vari- 
 ous objects, mention the rivers of each 
 county with some of their particular in- 
 cidents, but the accounts they give are 
 naturally short, nor has any plan con- 
 fined itself to the rivers of Great Britain 
 as a single work till the present attempt, 
 which is brought forward with great 
 diffidence. 
 
 In pursuing the chain I had thus pre- 
 scribed for my outline, I set out north- 
 ward from the mouth of the Thames, 
 leaving that river with its component 
 streams to be the last described ; the ri^ 
 vers of Essex, therefore, which fall into 
 the German sea, are first noticed, and 
 those of Suffolk and Norfolk naturally 
 follow; from whence those of Lincoln- 
 shire, Yorkshire, Durham, and Northum- 
 berland, complete the eastern coast of 
 England, which is far less remarkable 
 throughout for the characteristic beauty 
 
6 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 of its streams, than the western. The 
 eastern coast of Scotland succeeds, where 
 the Tweedy the Forth, the Toy, the Dee, the 
 Spey, and the Ness, make distinguished 
 figures, for in Scotland the rivers of the 
 east are commonly superior to those of 
 the west, contrary to the line existing in 
 
 England. The northern peninsula of 
 
 Scotland has but few material streams, 
 and those are on the eastern coast, for 
 there is not one of consequence enough 
 to be described from the point opposite 
 the Orcades to the mouth of the Spean^ 
 which separates Invernessshire from Ar^ 
 gyleshire. Indeed, the interior parts of 
 that rugged tract of country are very lit- 
 tle known, and much must be gathered 
 from tradition, or the description of 
 those, whom property or business makes 
 conversant with these recesses; which, 
 if not impervious absolutely to travellers, 
 are too difficult of access, and too desti- 
 tute of accommodation, to be frequently 
 
 visited, or minutely explored. The 
 
 coast here exhibits the best known ox 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN/ JT 
 
 most curious points of observation, and I 
 have thought proper, both here and else- 
 where, occasionally, to give such a gene- 
 ral description of it as I could collect 
 from the sources of information I had 
 the power of applying to, considering it 
 as forming the chain of communication 
 with the succeeding streams, which it is 
 the avowed object of this work to ex- 
 plore. Except the Clyde, the rivers on 
 
 the western side of Scotland are not very 
 striking, but after reaching the confines 
 of England at the Solway Firth, th&, 
 hune, the Rihhle, and the Mersey, deserve 
 much attention, as well as the many 
 fine streams in North and South Wales. 
 The Severn is the last of the Welch ri- 
 vers, and in its passage to the sea it re- 
 ceives many tributary streams from the 
 midland and western parts of England, 
 
 which are described with it. The 
 
 western coast of Somersetshire, Devon- 
 shire, and Cornwall, succeeds, but till the 
 point of the Land's End is compassed, no 
 streams of great note, except the CameJj^ 
 
 B4 
 
8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 intervene. The southern coast of Corn- 
 wall has many considerable inlets, and 
 the Tamar, which divides that county 
 from Devonshire, is a noble river. The 
 southern coast of Devon ^exhibits a con- 
 siderable line of beauty in the two fine 
 bays of Plymouth Sound and Torbay, as 
 well as those at the mouths of the Teign, 
 the Ex, and the Syd, the banks of which 
 rivers shew a great display of the beauty 
 and riches with which that fine county 
 abounds. Dorsetshire presents a bold 
 and interesting coast which is intersected 
 with but few rivers, and Hampshire 
 stretches out to the boundary of Sussex, 
 where the southern coast of England 
 may properly be said to conclude. The 
 Avon from Wiltshire, and the Itch'm 
 (which afterwards forms the Southampton 
 Water in conjunction with the Test), are 
 its principal rivers, and the great bay and 
 harbour of Portsmouth, in front of the 
 Isle of Wight, exhibits its most striking 
 injet. Turning round the point of Sus- 
 sex, and proceeding northward, the lower 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIIS^. 9 
 
 part of the eastern coast of England only 
 remains to be described, till its junction 
 with the mouth of the Thames, where 
 this account began ; this space includes 
 the counties of Sussex and Kent, neither 
 of which abounds in rivers of note, till 
 we come to the Medway, 
 
 Having thus compassed our island, the 
 Thames and its auxiliary streams present 
 the last objects of description, and I have 
 here been more minute and diffuse than 
 with the former rivers, though I am well 
 aware it has repeatedly been treated of 
 by abler pens than mine, and with those 
 advantages of appropriate drawings which 
 I could not give it. I was impelled to 
 do so, notwithstanding, partly because no 
 part of its course was included in either 
 of my former works, partly because I had 
 during much of my life been particularly 
 conversant with and interested in its 
 vicinage, and principally because it seem- 
 ed requisite, in a work which undertakes 
 to describe all the rivers of Great Britain, 
 that this prime channel of the commerce 
 
lO RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 and consequence that enrich its capital, 
 pervading also the central parts of the 
 kingdom, and adorned with such fine 
 scenes of nature, and such exquisite dis- 
 plays of art, should be more studiously 
 attended to. 
 
 In describing in their turns the various 
 fine rivers of Scotland and of Wales, I 
 had considerable difficulty to encounter 
 in the circumstance of their having pre- 
 sented the principal objects of attention 
 in my former books on those countries, 
 which abound so much in romantic sce- 
 nery. I have particularly studied, how- 
 ever, to avoid unnecessary repetition, 
 either by making the account of scenes 
 and rivers before described more cursory, 
 or by varying the points of view which it 
 includes, or taking them in a different 
 series. I have generally, but not always, 
 described the course and bearings of a 
 river separately from its peculiar charac- 
 ter and incidental circumstances, and 
 have endeavoured to vary the mode pur- 
 sued as much as could be consistent with 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. TI 
 
 conciseness, which should ever be at- 
 tended to in so dry, yet so necessary, a 
 part of the undertaking. 
 
 I have sometimes treated the compo- 
 nent branches of great rivers as separate 
 streams, and at others as connected with 
 the main subject, wishing to throw as 
 much variety as could be introduced, 
 without confusion, on a part of the work, 
 in which there must be a certain degree 
 of sameness. The characters of the rivers 
 themselves, and the fcenery attendant on 
 their banks, form of course the pleasant- 
 est part, both to the reader and the wri- 
 ter ; nor is there any difficulty in exclud- 
 ing sameness, where all the profusion of 
 nature, and the accidental circumstances 
 of canals, manufactures, population, and 
 ornamental works, induce a perpetual 
 variety. 
 
 In some few places, and particularly in 
 the chapter which concerns the Thames 
 (as being more diffuse than the rest) I 
 have taken the liberty of commemorat- 
 ing a few spots endeared by local circum- 
 
IZ RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Stances, and the remembrance of some 
 worthy characters which adorned them, 
 and created their peculiar interest to me. 
 
 Impelled by grateful memory of the 
 pleasures derived from a long course of 
 attentive kindness, I could not but in- 
 dulge this sensation here, as I have occa- 
 sionally done before, but I have been 
 cautious in avoiding a repetition of what 
 my former works contained of this kind, 
 even when the same ground presented 
 itself. 
 
 I have also attempted to be brief, 
 though explicit; nor may these little 
 episodes be deemed altogether inappro- 
 priate, and it is probable they may intro- 
 duce at times a welcome interval of va- 
 riety ; the impressions from which they 
 arise remain indelible on my mind, and 
 the spots they regard seem consecrated 
 by the many hours of happiness they be- 
 stowed on me during those years in 
 which the powers of observation and re- 
 flection are best seconded by those of 
 fancy, imagination, and animation. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 13 
 
 This circumstance must also apologize, 
 if it is necessary, to several friends, to- 
 wards whom I entertain the highest 
 esteem and regard, for the introduction 
 of their names, and the places of their 
 abode, in a work which many readers 
 may, perhaps justly, deem unworthy of 
 that distinction. 
 
 Having thus gone over all the ground 
 which may serve to elucidate the general 
 plan, as well as some of the principal 
 points contained in the subsequent sheets, 
 I have only to commit their fate to my 
 friends and the public, with a hope of 
 experiencing the same partial indulgence 
 I have before been favoured with, and 
 accordingly proceed to describe the rivers 
 of Great Britain, ascending northward 
 from the Thames on the eastern coast of 
 England. 
 
14 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Rivers of Essex northward of the Thames 
 — The Black water and Chelmer — The 
 Colne — The Stour — Rivers of Sif- 
 folk and Norfolk— The Orwell— The 
 Deben and the Aide — The Waveny 
 and Yare — General account of the coast 
 of Essex, Suffolk, Norfolk, and Lincoln- 
 shire to the Humberts Mouth — The 
 Great and Little Ousc — Rivers of 
 Cambridgeshire, Huntingdonshire, and 
 Lincolnshire — ^The Cam and Granta 
 —The Nen or Nine— The Welland 
 — ^The Witham — Great Bay of Lynn 
 Deeps and the Washes. 
 
 The Blackwater and Chelmer 
 are the first rivers of any note on the 
 Essex coast above the Thames, those of 
 the Crouch, and the BromhlU, in the fens 
 of Essex below Rochford, being inconsi- 
 derable streams, except at their mouths. 
 
-r *.-:.3Slt<--;-: 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 15 
 
 The upper branch, which bears the name 
 of the Blackwater throughout, rises near 
 Saffron Walden, on the borders of Cam- 
 bridgeshire, and flows towards the south 
 east, making a confiderable turn at Brain- 
 tree to the east, and then to the south- 
 west, after which it runs nearly south- 
 ward to Maiden, where the Chelmer joins 
 it, rising a little on the north of Thax- 
 tead, and pursuing nearly a parallel course 
 with the Blackwater to the south-east as 
 far as Chelmsford ; from whence it makes 
 a compass towards the east to join its 
 sister stream. 
 
 Each of these rivers finds its way 
 through a rich and well inhabited coun- 
 try, but they have no great points of sce- 
 nery to distinguish them, except the 
 handsome county town of Chelmsford. 
 The estuary of the Blackwater, which is 
 formed below Maiden after the union of 
 the two rivers, points rather to the north- 
 east, and is very confiderable. 
 
 The CoLNE is a small river, pursuing 
 a course generally to the south-east from 
 
l6 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 its rise on the borders of Suffolk, and 
 flowing to the southward at last from 
 Colchester to the sea. It is remarkable 
 for nothing but a pleasant valley between 
 Castle Headingham, and that town. 
 
 The Stour of Essex rises not far from 
 Haverhill, on the borders of Cambridge- 
 shire, and passes w ith some windings in a 
 southern or eastern direction to Sudbury, 
 and from thence, after being joined by 
 the Brett near Neyland, eastward to its 
 mouth, dividing Essex from Suffolk, to 
 Harwich. 
 
 This is a more considerable river than 
 any of the former, passing through a 
 pleasant part of the two counties it tra- 
 verses. At Manningtree it receives the 
 tide, and increasing greatly in breadth 
 presents a beautiful object at high water 
 to the fine seat and grounds of Mistly 
 'Thorn, the effect of which is considera- 
 bly lessened by its muddy channel and 
 contracted stream during the ebb. At 
 Harwich it meets the Orwell from Ips- 
 wich, and both rivers fall into the sea 
 
OF GREAT i^RtTAIN. 17 
 
 beneath the batteries of Landguard Fort, 
 on the Suffolk shore. 
 
 The Orwell finds its source in the 
 centre of Siiffolk, near Stow Market, 
 pursuing a south-east direction to Ips- 
 wich, and from thence making a curve 
 almost to the south to meet the St our, 
 opposite to Harwich. 
 
 The banks of this river arc in general 
 picturesque, and more particularly fo, 
 when it becomes an estuary below the 
 ancient town of Ipswlch. They are then 
 steep, beautifully fringed with wood, and 
 adorned with several fine seats, among 
 which Mr. Berner's delightful place of 
 Wolverston is most conspicuous. The 
 navigation of this channel from Ipswich 
 Quay is delightful at high water, termi- 
 nating in the point where Landguard 
 Fort fronts the port of Harwich. 
 
 ThcDEBEN,theALDE,andtheBLYTH, 
 are three small rivers penetrating through 
 Suffolk to the German sea : the Dehen 
 by Woodbridge, the Aide by Aldborough 
 and Orford, and the Blyth by Southwold. 
 C 
 
l8 RIVERS AXD COAST 
 
 Neither of them are attended with any 
 remarkable features, except the long 
 winding aestuary of the Aide to Orford. 
 
 The Waveny and the Tare meet in 
 the marshes which environ Yarmouth ; 
 the former for a considerable distance 
 dividing Suffolk from Norfolk, as it flows 
 towards the north-east, and the latter 
 winding eastward through the heart of 
 Norfolk, receiving the Weitsom and the 
 Tase near Norwich, and meeting the 
 Thyrn united with the Btire from the 
 north, just at the termination of its large 
 aestuary. 
 
 The course of the Waveny is very plea- 
 sant by Harlestone, Bungay, and Beccles, 
 but that of the Yare (except in the vici- 
 nage of Norwich) is not accompanied 
 with much distinction and beauty. The 
 Wensum passes through the centre of that 
 great and populous city, joining the Yare 
 a little below it. Thofe rivers, which 
 afterwards meet, these from the north, 
 traverse in general a flat district, and the 
 Thyrn forms a lake in its passage from 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. IJ 
 
 North Walsham, that tract being in ge- 
 neral low, and abounding in large pools. 
 The coast of Essex from the mouth of 
 the Thames, which may be fixed at the 
 J^ore, between Leigh in Essex, and Sheer- 
 ness in Kent, receding, turns abruptly to 
 face the east, indented by the bays form- 
 ed by the Crouch, the Blackwatcr, and 
 Colne, It then inclines rather south- 
 ward, but refumes its eastward direction 
 to its union with Suffolk, where the 
 estuaries of the Stour and the Orwell 
 form their gulph round the port of Har- 
 wich. The whole of this tract is flat, 
 marshy, and unhealthy, though not ill- 
 inhabited, and the land is fertile. The 
 coast of Suffolk rises in a waving line 
 towards the north, a little inclined to 
 the east, by the ports of Orford, Aldbo- 
 rough,Dunwich,and Lowestoffe, the first 
 part being marshy, but the latter bold and 
 handfome. Lowestoffe is a pleasant sea- 
 bathing place, and Yarmouth the best 
 on this coast, being alfo a fine town, as 
 well as a port of consequence. The 
 
^O RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 coast of Norfolk from thence, ascending 
 for some distance northward through a 
 flat, turns in a broad semicircle by the 
 west to the south, to reach Lynn Regis, 
 where the great bay is formed between 
 that' county and Lincolnshire, indenting 
 the country far to the south-west. At 
 the extremity of this recess the Lincoln- 
 shire coast projects in a point opposite to 
 that of Hunstanton or St. Edmond's 
 Point, in Norfolk, and ascending north- 
 ward, inclines gradually to the west to 
 the mouth of the Himiher, This is a 
 long tract, mostly flat, and undistinguish- 
 ed by any points of beauty ; it is alfo ill- 
 inhabited, having fev/ towns or villages, 
 but Skegness and Saltfleet are occasionally 
 frequented for bathing. 
 
 Near the pleasant town of Cromer, 
 the shore of Norfolk elevates itself into 
 some fine heights, one of which is occu- 
 pied by Mr. Wyndham's seat of Fell- 
 bridge ; some w coded hills also near 
 Sherringham make an agreeable variety 
 in the landscape, and the small town of 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 2il 
 
 Holt occupies an eminence, near which 
 is Mr. Jodrell's charming spot of Bay- 
 field in front of the little ports of Clay 
 and Blakeney, the tower of which last is 
 a fea mark. This county abounds in fine 
 seats, of which Mr. Coke's at Hoik ham, 
 near Wells, is the most remarkable ; the 
 house being a magnificent structure, and 
 the place highly adorned ; but the sur- 
 rounding country is bare or marshy, 
 especially towards the shore and the port 
 of Wells. Houghton, the splendid seat 
 of the Orford family, lies at no great dis- 
 tance, but has little now to boast of, ex- 
 cept the structure, since the removal of 
 its great collection of pictures. 
 
 The OasE traverses a very considera- 
 ble part of the midland counties of Eng- 
 land, rising in two branches not far from 
 Brackley and Towcester, on the borders 
 of Northamptonshire and Oxfordshire, 
 from whence its course is eastward, a 
 little inclined to the north, through Buck- 
 inghamshire, joined at Newport Pagnel 
 by a small stream from Ivine;hoe in the 
 
 C3 
 
2Z HIVERS AND COAST 
 
 south ; to reach Bedford it descends by 
 many windings towards the south, and 
 then joined by the Hyee from Woburn, 
 and the Ivel from Biggleswade, pursues 
 its original direction to Huntingdon, 
 where a combination of streams from 
 the north-west contributes to its increase. 
 From thence the Ouse passes nearly east- 
 ward through the centre of the fens of 
 Cambridgeshire, where it receives the 
 Cam near Ely, from the south-west, and 
 afterwards the Lesser Ouse from Woolpit 
 and Ixworth, in the south-east, joined by 
 the Larke from Bury St. Edmonds ; it 
 then inclines more and more to the 
 north, till it falls into the great gulph of 
 the sea between the projecting coasts of 
 Norfolk and Lincolnshire, beneath the 
 walls of Lynn Regis. 
 
 The Ouse is generally a stagnant 
 stream, neither giving nor receiving 
 much beauty in the great tract through 
 which it passes, which includes some of 
 the least interesting districts of England. 
 Its course is uniformly dull and unim- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^3 
 
 portant to Buckingham, nor is it at all 
 an object, from the princely territory of 
 Stowe, which abounds in grand scenes 
 and buildings, rather too artificially dis- 
 posed, as well as too numerous. 
 
 The Ouse does not improve much, as 
 it traverses the plain counties of Bedford 
 and Huntingdon, though it adds some 
 consequence to their capitals, being there 
 navigable ; at St. Ives it sinks into those 
 great marshes which abound on this 
 part of the eastern coast, through Nor- 
 folk, Huntingdonshire, Cambridgeshire, 
 Northamptonshire, and Lincolnshire. 
 
 The HyeCy which meets it a little be- 
 low Bedford, passes near the duke of 
 Bedford's noble domain of Woburn Ab- 
 bey, and the Ivel flows northward to it 
 through a dull tract of country. 
 
 The Cam is composed of two branches, 
 one of which rises on the borders of 
 Bedfordshire, and unites with the other, 
 which bears the classic narne of the 
 Granta, flowing from the confines of 
 Essex, through the highly ornamented 
 
 C4 
 
24 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 grounds of Audley End. They unite 
 near Cambridge, and then run nearly 
 northward till the Ouse receives them a 
 little below Ely. 
 
 The Cam receives no small portion of 
 beauty from the academic shades of 
 Cambridge, being crossed by bridges 
 from most of the principal colleges, 
 ■whose gardens join the public walk on 
 its bank, which is finely planted and laid 
 put. The stream itself is but stagnant 
 and muddy, yet it adds somjsthing to the 
 peculiar traits of the landscape with its 
 several handsome stone bridges, nor do 
 the fronts of the colleges, as they appear 
 in succession intermixed with thick 
 groves, any where shew themselves to 
 such advantage. The area in front of 
 Clare Hall, and the new building of 
 King s College, with its superb chapel, 
 matchless in that species of Gothic ar- 
 chitecture, which has been called '^ the^ 
 'improved^' exhibits one of the most strik- 
 ing displays in England. 
 
 The Cam soon afterwards sinks into 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 2$ 
 
 -the fens, where the proud pile and towers 
 of Ely Cathedral appear finely elevated 
 over the level, just above the junction of 
 the Cam and the 07ise, A dreary tract 
 of marsh accompanies these united rivers 
 to Downham, in Norfolk, nor does the 
 country much improve afterwards, but the 
 aestuary at last is very considerable, and 
 the exit of these rivers is splendid, where 
 the flourishing port and great trade of 
 Lynn present a crowd of vessels. 
 
 The Nen or Nine rises in two 
 branches on the north and south of Da- 
 ventry, and pursues an eastern direction 
 to Northampton, where it turns more 
 towards the north, through one of the 
 pleasantest vales in that county ; from 
 Wandesford its course is again more 
 eastward to Peterborough, from whence 
 it soon enters the Cambridgeshire fens, 
 which it traverses in a north-east direc- 
 tion, spreading into various streams, one 
 of which (being artificially drawn) leads 
 to V/isbech. The Nen then divides 
 ^Lincolnshire from Norfolk, as it advances 
 
:::6 rivers and coast 
 
 to form the wash of Cross Keys, termi- 
 nating in the great gulph, where the 
 Ouse discharges itself a few miles on the 
 south-east of the Nen. 
 
 The first part of this river is through 
 a delightful country, and its character is 
 that of a gentle but full stream, flowing 
 in placid beauty between enamelled mea- 
 dows, through a tract abundant in towns, 
 -villages, and fine seats. Northampton, 
 one of the most elegant and ornamented 
 county towns in England, graces its 
 early course, and its banks are lined with 
 fine seats from thence to Wellingborough, 
 among which Castle Ashby makes a con- 
 spicuous figure. This county abounds 
 in villages, and handsome spires start up 
 in every quarter ; it is also distinguished 
 by large forests, among which that of 
 Rockingham is the most considerable, 
 covering almost all the space from the 
 Welland to the Nen^ near Thrapston and 
 Oundle on the latter river. Wandesford 
 presents a long bridge to the north road, 
 which is celebrated by the romantic 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 2^ 
 
 story of a man floated from the higher 
 districts of Northamptonshire down the 
 river on a hay- cock where he was sleep- 
 ing, in consequence of a summer flood, 
 and stopped by its arches ; his surprise 
 on awaking, and his extraordinary pre- 
 servation, form the interesting part of 
 the story ; but many think it altogether 
 fabulous, though it has given a sign to 
 an excellent inn on the Huntingdonshire 
 side of the bridge. The country after- 
 wards becomes far more level, though 
 yet distinguished by a range of green 
 meadows, and some elevated grounds on 
 the Northamptonshire bank, where lord 
 Fitzwilliam's fine old seat of Milton co- 
 vers a long waving ridge with its plan- 
 tations. Soon afterwards, the majestic 
 pile of Peterborough Cathedral exalts it- 
 self above its city with great grandeur, 
 below w^hich the Nen becomes lost in 
 those immense fens which cover the 
 extensive level before described, inter- 
 spersed with large pools of water, of 
 which Whittlesea Meer is the greatest. 
 
 I 
 
^8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 All these abound in wild fowl, and de* 
 coys are frequent in this district ; those 
 rare and delicate birds also, called the 
 Ruff and Ree, are found here, and train- 
 ed with considerable expence and diffi- 
 culty. Wisbech may be called the port 
 of the Nefi, being singularly constructed 
 after the manner of those of Holland, 
 with rows of trees on each side of its 
 wide streets, the broad muddy channel of 
 the modern river occupying the centre, 
 and the ancient channel flowing some- 
 what southward through the fens. 
 
 The Welland finds its source in a 
 gentle range of hills between Lutter- 
 worth and Harborough, and divides 
 Northamptonshire from Leicestershire, 
 Rutland and Lincolnshire in a direction 
 inclining mostly to the north-east; it 
 then turns directly north, crossing the 
 fens, and meets the Glen from Bourne 
 just where the mouth of these two rivers 
 forms the w^ash of Fossdyke, which falls 
 into the great gulph considerably norths 
 ward of that of Cross Keys. 
 
OF GREAt BRITAIN. 2^ 
 
 The Wetland being less than the ISiejiy 
 does not equal it fully in the beauty of 
 its course, yet it traverses a fine plain be- 
 tween Harborough and Rockingham, dis- 
 tinguished with some bold hills, and well 
 sprinkled with villages. Carlton, the 
 hospitable mansion of Sir John Palmer, 
 covers one of the eminences, who has 
 lately rebuilt his church in a very hand- 
 some Gothic taste ; and on the opposite 
 hill, in Leicestershire, Mr. Nevill's old 
 collegiate house of Holt displays itself, 
 where is found a celebrated mineral wa- 
 ter. Rockingham castle also, the ancient 
 seat of Lord Sondes, overlooks the WeU 
 land from its high terrace, backed by a 
 finely- wooded park; and as this river ap- 
 proaches Rutland, the vale contracts it- 
 self, the hills becoming higher, one of 
 which is crowned with the spire of Up- 
 pingham. The great forest of Rocking- 
 ham covers all the Northamptonshire 
 side with its abundant woods, which are 
 formed into large ridings to embellish 
 the various fine seats contained within 
 
 6 
 
30 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 its confines, among which Boughton, 
 Dean, Kirby, and Drayton, are the prin- 
 cipal. Advancing forward with the 
 Wellandy the two high towers of Colly- 
 weston and Easton, with the venerable 
 ruin of Worthorop, mark the Northamp- 
 tonshire termination of the vale, and 
 the spire of Kctton starts up pleasantly 
 amidst the meadows of Rutland. The 
 numerous steeples and towers of Stam- 
 ford rise in almost collegiate grandeur to 
 grace the entrance of Lincolnshire, and 
 the princely pile of Burghley in the midst 
 of its highly-ornamented territory adorns 
 the Northamptonshire bank, appearing 
 itself .a town. Majestic avenues of ol4 
 trees, and almost numberless young plan- 
 tations cover the encircling eminences, 
 within which all the art of Brow ne has 
 been happily expended, and the highest 
 powers of architecture and painting be- 
 stowed to decorate this splendid domain 
 of the Earls of Exeter, ever renowned for 
 the most liberal encouragement of the 
 arts, and the most impressive display of 
 
OF GREAT BRITAl??. 3I 
 
 British hospitality. The present 4ord, 
 now advanced to the dignity of a mar- 
 quis, is increasing the park, and building 
 two appropriate lodges with great taste. 
 The Welland soon afterwards sinks into 
 the Fens of Lincolnshire below Deeping, 
 and passing near the grand monastic ruin 
 of Crowland abbey, arrives at its port of 
 Spalding, built after the Dutch fashion 
 like Wisbech, soon after which it reaches 
 the sea. The Chater joins it at Ketton, 
 rising in the forest of Liffield on the 
 borders of Leicestershire, and the Gnash 
 falls into it a little below Stamford, 
 forming the pleasant vale of Catmose in 
 its passage, in which the town and spire 
 of Okeham, its capital, encircled by nu- 
 merous villages, are proudly overlooked 
 by the Earl of Winchelsea's elevated pa- 
 lace of Burley on the Hill, the court-yard 
 of which is the most splendid in Eng- 
 land. Both these rivers traverse the 
 whole of the little county of Rutland, 
 moving chiefly in an eastward direction. 
 The Glea?i, which joins the Tf'Wand in 
 
33 RIVERS AXD COAST 
 
 the fens at the extremity of its course, 
 pursues nearly the same line, and is re- 
 markable for nothing but the fine woods 
 and extensive domain of Grimthorpe cas- 
 tle, belonging to the Duke of Ancaster, 
 which one branch of it contributes to 
 adorn. 
 
 The With AM rises near a village of 
 that name, about ten miles north of 
 Stamford, and pursues a line deviating 
 but a little from the north by Grantham 
 to Lincoln ; it then turns eastward, and 
 joined by a stream from the w^olds in 
 the north, proceeds southward through 
 the fens to Tattershall, where it is met 
 by the Bain from Horricastle, and after- 
 wards to Boston, soon falling into the 
 great bay between Lincolnshire and Nor-* 
 folk, at the mouth of Fossdyke Wash. 
 
 The course of this river is not so strik- 
 ing as that of either of the two last, but 
 its banks at first are not unpleasant ; it 
 passes also several considerable objects 
 in the high spire of Grantham, Lord 
 Brownlow's neighbouring scat at Bel- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^^ 
 
 ton, and that of Sir John Thorold at 
 Syston. Its approach to Lincoln is very 
 remarkable, whose magnificent cathedral 
 covers the summit of a high mount, 
 rising in three lofty towers, two of 
 which are crowned with spires, from 
 which the city descends in a steep street 
 to the bridge. The Witham, even in the 
 centre of the most dreary fens, is graced 
 with the bold ruin of Tattershall castle, 
 and the elegant Gothic pile of Boston 
 church, from whose lofty tower the 
 prospect is nearly boundless over the 
 immense levels which encompass it, 
 where the churches are almost too nu- 
 merous to be counted, and where the 
 distant cathedrals of Peterborough and 
 Lincoln are at once visible. The Wt- 
 tliam is defended against the incursions 
 of the sea by a curioufly-constructed 
 sluice, just before it reaches Boston, 
 which is a well built town, and may be 
 called the principal port of this vast tract, 
 possessing a considerable trade. This is 
 the last of those numerous streams, 
 D 
 
34 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 which contribute to form the great 
 gulph between Lincolnshire and Nor- 
 folk, the deeps of Boston being at its 
 mouth, nearly opposite to those of Lynn, 
 across the bay. The two washes of 
 Cross Keys and Fossdyke penetrate into the 
 country near its centre, at the mouths of 
 the Nen and the Welland, over the sands 
 of which a dangerous road is pursued at 
 low water, near the little town of Hol- 
 bech, on each side of which a small 
 stream flows towards the sea. The coast 
 of Lincolnshire, north of Boston, is not 
 distinguished by any memorable streams 
 to the mouth of the Humber, the rivers 
 which reach the sea at Wainfleet and 
 Saltfleet being inconsiderable, though 
 the latter is navigable to Louth. 
 
s n I n E 
 
 BHtiih .UiU.t 
 
OF GREAT BRlTAIir- 35 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 The Trent, and its various compojwit 
 streams, viz, the Blythe, t/ie Tame, the 
 Dove, the Derwent, the Soar, the Er- 
 wash, and tlie Idle. — The Ancholme 
 of Lincolnshire,' — The three drvisiom of 
 that county into the Wolds, the Heath, 
 and the Fens, with a general account of 
 the two former, the latter having ieeri 
 before noticed in describing its pervading 
 rivers. 
 
 The Trent. We are now arrived at 
 a river, far superior in consequence and 
 character to most in England, and infe- 
 rior perhaps to none, except the Thames; 
 w^hose leading features it may be said to 
 imitate in the attendant circumstances 
 of a clear stream and a bold current, 
 though the Trent exceeds the Thames 
 generally in rapidity, yet without par- 
 taking at all in the nature of a torrent, 
 D^ 
 
36 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 This river pervades some of the most fer- 
 tile districts of the kingdom, its proper 
 rise being in the hills beyond Newcastle- 
 under-Line in Staffordshire, adjoining to 
 the borders of Cheshire* Its course is at 
 first nearly south-east, making a sudden 
 turn by the east to the north between 
 Wolsley bridge, Burton, and Swarkes- 
 ton, from whence it divides Leicester- 
 shire from Derbyshire, penetrating also 
 through the centre of Nottinghamshire 
 in a north-east direction, which inclines 
 gradually more and more to the north, 
 with various windings, as the Tre7it se- 
 parates Nottinghamshire from Lincoln- 
 shire. At length it reaches the borders 
 of Yorkshire some miles above Gainsbo- 
 rough, and joins with the aestuary of the 
 Northern Ouse to form the Humher. 
 
 The Trent is generally a full transpa- 
 rent stream, gliding in silver beauty be- 
 tween rich meadows, and through po- 
 pulous districts, but it no where (except 
 when increased by floods) resembles the 
 torrents of the north, whose origin is 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 37 
 
 mountainous. Its early course, from the 
 busy town of Newcastle, and the sur- 
 rounding hills covered with potteries 
 (among which Mr. Wedgwood has esta- 
 blished his Etruria), is graced by the 
 highly ornamented domain of Trentham, 
 where art has judiciously swelled it into 
 a lake, so as almost entirely to fill the 
 level part of the park, beneath a high 
 spreading hill covered with oaks from its 
 summit to the very margin of the water, 
 and bounding the rich lawn, on which 
 the stately mansion of the place is si- 
 tuated. Soon afterwards, the Trent meets 
 the numerous canals which abound in. 
 the neighbouring manufacturing districts, 
 and frequently follow a course parallel 
 with it through the pleasant valley it 
 forms by Stone to the charming spot 
 where the little bridge of Wolsley 
 crosses it beneath the spiral eminences 
 of its wild park, connected with those 
 of the adjoining chase of Cannock. 
 
 Lord Uxbridge's superb seat of Beau- 
 desert includes some of the most striking 
 
 D3 
 
3^ RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 scenery in this forest-like district, and 
 Mr. Anson, close to the Trent, has co- 
 vered the valley and its adjoining hills 
 with the ornamental buildings and 
 plantations of Shuckbergh. Making its 
 sweep to the north, the Trent now forms 
 a larger vale, intersected by parallel ca- 
 nals, passing through Sir Nigel Gresley's 
 grounds at Drakelow, to the old bridge 
 at the extremity of the long town of 
 Burton, and afterwards beneath the ex- 
 tensive plantations of Foremark, and the 
 wooded park and terrace of Castle Don- 
 nington to Cavendish and Sawley bridges. 
 Having now received the Blythe, the 
 Tame, the Soar, the Dove, the Derwe?it, 
 and the Erwash, most of which in- 
 fluence its changes of direction, the 
 Trent beconies a very considerable river, 
 as it advances through a range of flowery 
 meadows, bounded by high tufted hills, 
 and checqucred with villages, to the 
 spreading, rock on which the opulent 
 town of Nottingham presents its bold 
 semicircle to the south, one horn of 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN, 39^ 
 
 which is crowned with the castle, and 
 the other with the Gothic church of that 
 place. It flows afterwards through a rich 
 vale, with the hills of the forest of Sher- 
 wood on the left, in a hollow of which) 
 the antient collegiate church and town 
 of Southwell, appear from the banks of 
 the Trent, which divides itself into two 
 channels before it reaches the handsome 
 town of Newark. One of these washes 
 the walls of that place, the other passing 
 by Kelham, at the end of a long con- 
 necting cause- way, over which the north 
 road is carried. The rich Gothic spire of 
 Newark, and its ruined castle, are striking 
 objects when viewed from Kelham-house, 
 the large mansion of the Manners Sut- 
 ton family. A broad plain now extends 
 itself around the J'rent, abundant in po- 
 pulation and villages, but gradually de- 
 clining in beauty, as it becomes more 
 level, in which the two branches unite, 
 but the surrounding flat seldom allows 
 the Trent to be distinguished. Vessels 
 of some size, with the assistance of the 
 
 D4 
 
40 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 tide, navigate it to Gainsborough, where 
 it is crossed , by a magnificent stone 
 bridge, smaller craft having floated down 
 its stream, from its early junction with 
 the Staffordshire canals. It then divides 
 a range of fens, without any distinguish- 
 ing feature, till it makes a bold junction 
 with the Ouse of Yorkshire, combining 
 to form the grand aestuary of the Hiimher, 
 and adding much thereto by its exten- 
 sive trade and its large concourse of tri- 
 butary waters. 
 
 Numerous are the auxiliary streams 
 which contribute to increase the Tre?if, 
 and their characters differ from each 
 other. 
 
 The Blythe is the first of any note, 
 rising a few miles eastward of the Trent, 
 and pursuing nearly a parallel course to 
 its junction with that river near King's 
 Bromley, the Sow from Eccleshall and 
 the Peak from Pcnkridgc, having fallen 
 into it some miles higher near Stafford, 
 after their union with each other. The 
 Blythp has no particular feature, except 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 4I 
 
 lord Bagot's scat, and finely wooded park 
 ofBlithefield. 
 
 The Tame rises in two branches not 
 far from Coleshill in Warwickshire, 
 flowing northward to its junction with 
 the Trent some miles above Burton ; its 
 course is short, and it has nothing but 
 the castle of Tamworth, on a steep rock 
 above its town, to distinguish it. The 
 city of Litchfield, with its rich Gothic 
 cathedral, lies a few miles westward of 
 the junction. 
 
 The Dove rises in the rocky hills of 
 the peak of Derbyshire, afterwards divid- 
 ing for the most part that county from 
 Staffordshire, and with various windings 
 pursues a line very little inclined to the 
 eastward from the south, till it falls into 
 the Tre7it below Burton. 
 
 The Dove differs greatly from all the 
 streams I have hitherto described, ap- 
 proaching more nearly in quality and 
 appearance to those rivers of North and 
 South Wales, which derive their sources 
 from a mountainous origin, of which it 
 
4Z RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 may properly be said to present a minia- 
 ture. In the early part of its course it 
 forms the beautifully romantic dell of 
 Dove Dais, winding between almost 
 perpendicular hill? fringed with wood, 
 and abounding in bold projecting rocks, 
 which often turn the torrent from its 
 course. This spot is frequently visited 
 by the curious traveller, and numerous 
 parties are formed during the summer to 
 employ a day pleasantly in exploring its 
 recesses. The Dove, emerging from 
 the hollows under the pyramidical 
 mountain of Thorpe Cloud soon receives 
 the Many/old, issuing from the subterra- 
 neous caves it forms in the delightful 
 gardens of Ham, which (together with 
 the paintings of Okeover in its neigh- 
 bourhood) frequently attracts the curious. 
 Much increased by this accession, the 
 river is crossed by a long picturesque 
 bridge in a most romantic spot within a 
 mile of the town of x\shborne, whose 
 high spire first leads the eye to a place 
 which far excels most country tow^ns in 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 43 
 
 the beauty of its situation, and the select 
 charms of its society. 
 
 After this, the Dove forms a narrow 
 valley in its winding course, adorned 
 with some of the most pleasing points of 
 rural and pastoral attraction, intermixed 
 with various handsome seats and villages, 
 in the course of which it is joined by 
 the Char?iet from below Leek and the 
 borders of Cheshire. 
 
 This vale expands considerably at 
 Uttoxeter, and from thence to Sudbury, 
 where the river flows pleasantly between 
 the wild wooded hills of Needwood fo- 
 rest, and the respectable old mansion of 
 lord Vernon, backed by the swelling 
 lawns of its park. A wider plain suc- 
 ceeds, distinguished by the bold hill on 
 which the memorable ruin of Tutbury 
 Castle displays itself with striking effect J 
 beneath which the Dove flows, hasten- 
 ing to join the Trent near Burton, first 
 crossed by the Staffordshire canal. 
 
 The Derwent, rising in the almost 
 mountainous district of the high peak of 
 7 
 
44 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Derbyshire, nearly on the borders of 
 Yorkshire, pursues a direction mostly 
 parallel with the Dove, to Derby in the 
 southern part of the county, where it 
 turns rather eastward to meet the Trent 
 near Sawley, on the borders of Leices- 
 tershire and Nottinghamshire. 
 
 The Defwent is a larger river than the 
 Dove, partaking of the same hilly origin, 
 and exhibiting the same romantic cha- 
 racter, with some peculiar and extraor- 
 dinary features. Various small torrents 
 soon increase it in the dreary and savage 
 waste which incloses its spring, and one 
 of these flows directly from the noted 
 cavern of Castlcton, where it bursts into 
 light under an immense natural arch, 
 after its long subterraneous passage, fer- 
 tilizing the little valley of Hope in its 
 way. Another little rivulet forms in its 
 descent the curious hollow of Middleton 
 Dale, through which the great road from 
 Piuxton passes, where the traveller is sur- 
 prised with piles of rocks rising in suc- 
 cessive clusters, so as to imitate the arti- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 45 
 
 ficial formation of pillars, impending so- 
 lemnly over his winding descent, and 
 creating perpetual surprise as their heights 
 increase. 
 
 The little picturesque village of Mid- 
 dleton is at the bottom of this pass, simi- 
 lar to which, but more precipitous and 
 rapid, is one into the vale of Castleton 
 from Chapel in Frith, and there arc 
 others of the same nature in this curious 
 line of country. Soon after it emerges 
 from its native wilds, the Derwent forms 
 the principal ornament of the superb 
 territory of Chattesworth, where vari- 
 ous works in different ages, of ancient 
 and modern magnificence, have been 
 successfully created, though its enlarge- 
 ment, and the formation of the lawns 
 which surround it in the park, together 
 with the plantations which cover all the 
 neighbouring hills, indicate most strongly 
 the matchless art of Browne. 
 
 Soon after this river quits Chattes- 
 worth, it is joined by the Wye, descend- 
 ing from the bare and bleak heights 
 
 \ 
 
46 RIVERS Al^D COASt 
 
 heights which environ the melancholy 
 spot occupied by Buxton, where Hygasa 
 has created her palace-like temple, in a 
 position which would hardly have at- 
 tracted the public influx of company but 
 for the aid of her salutary spring. 
 
 The Wye has some trifling falls in this 
 neighbourhood, and after its descent 
 from the upper region, passes by the 
 neat town of Bake well, and Haddon 
 Hall, the ancient, but deserted seat of 
 the Rutland family, in its way to join 
 the Derwent. 
 
 Both rivers, thus united, traverse the 
 delightful dale of Darley, environed by 
 fertihty, and encompassed by bold hills, 
 till a sudden turn ingulfs their channel 
 in those chains of lofty rocks fringed 
 with wood, which enclose in their wind- 
 ing recesses the justly-admired position 
 of the baths of Matlock. 
 
 Independent of the merit to be attri- 
 buted to these springs, the extraordinary 
 stripe of romantic beauty which environs 
 them must create a peculiar interest in 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 47 
 
 Matlock, which, though far inferior to 
 the greater displays of Wales, our north- 
 ern lakes, and Scotland, are yet perhaps 
 the most pleasing epitome of this kind of 
 landscape that can be found in so short 
 a compass, though not insimilar in that 
 respect to the rocks of St. Vincent, near 
 Bristol. 
 
 The Derweftt by its rapidity and occa- 
 sional shallows, seems to partake in the 
 nature of the country it now passes 
 through, from whence it emerges through 
 a high portal of rocks at Cromford, 
 where the late sir Richard Arkwright 
 established some considerable manufac- 
 tures near the palace-like house he built 
 for himself; it afterwards forms several 
 deep valleys in a tract abounding in col- 
 lieries, and their consequent population, 
 and at length enters a finely- featured 
 vale, adorned with the picturesque vil- 
 lage and spire of Duffield, where the 
 barren moors begin to recede, and culti- 
 vation assumes a more smiling appear- 
 ance. 
 
48 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 On a gentle elevation above the river 
 stands Daricy Hall, the pleasant seat of 
 Mr. Holden, which that amiable veteran 
 has adorned with much taste and ele- 
 gance, and where he closes a well-spent 
 life with cheerful society, acts of bene- 
 ficence, and the most engaging hospita- 
 lity, wherein I have often participated. 
 Surrounded by well-placed plantations, 
 his house commands the lofty Gothic 
 tower of Derby church behind a thick 
 grove, to great advantage, a hanging bank 
 of w^ood concealing the upper part of 
 the town on the right, and the distant 
 hills of Charnw^ood forest. in Leicester- 
 shire, forming a bold back-ground in 
 front, while the Derwent flows pleasantly 
 beneath through a range of meadows to 
 its handsome stone bridge below Derby. 
 
 The town of Derby is well inhabited 
 by many respectable families, and stands 
 in a delightful vale, a little elevated above 
 the Derwent; a small stream passes 
 through the town to join it from the 
 north-west, which is swelled into a con- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 49 
 
 siderable lake to adorn the finely-wooded 
 park and magnificent house of Kedleston> 
 near which also Is a mineral bath, and a 
 house of public resort belonging to it, 
 pleasantly situated. 
 
 Marston also, the large seat of Mr. 
 Mundy, covers the bank of this little 
 stream, with its grounds and plantations. 
 Nothing memorable attends the further 
 course of the Derwent, as it soon enters 
 the wide plain formed by the Trent on 
 the border of Leicestershire, and loses 
 itself in that great river. 
 
 The Soar rises not far from Hinckley 
 in Leicestershire, and flows towards the 
 north-east through that county to Lei- 
 cester, where it turns to the north to 
 meet soon after the Wreak from the con- 
 fines of Rutland, and then inclines to 
 the north-west, passing near Loughbo- 
 rough to join the Tre7tt a little below 
 Cavendish bridge, and at a short distance 
 from the mouth of the Derwent. 
 
 The course of this river being through 
 a rich grazing country, there are no pe- 
 E 
 
50 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 culiar points of beauty which distinguish 
 it, beyond those which the fertihty of its 
 environs creates. It more than half en- 
 compasses the ancient town of Leicester, 
 whose three spires appear to form a tri- 
 angle when viewed from its banks, 
 washing also the walls of Leicester Ab- 
 bey, where Wolsey finished his life. 
 The abrupt rock, over-hanging the Soar, 
 at the long ill-paved town of Mount- 
 sorrell, is an extraordinary feature in so 
 level a country. The vale through 
 which the Wreak passes from Melton 
 Mowbray, is rather stronger in its fea- 
 tures, than that which accompanies the 
 Soar, 
 
 The Erwash forms the divifion of 
 Derbyshire from Nottinghamshire dur- 
 most part of its short course ; it descends 
 southward from the coal countries near 
 Alfreton, and falls into the T;y;// a little 
 below the Derwent, but is unmarked by 
 any particular character. 
 
 The Idle is formed by several small 
 streams issuing from the upper parts of 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^t 
 
 the sandy district of Sherwood forest, 
 contributing to adorn the extensive parks 
 of Welbeck, Clumber, and Thoresby, in 
 that outhne ; its course is north-east 
 through the forest, then north by Rut- 
 land to Bawtrey, and then again inclin- 
 ing towards the east to meet the Trent 
 at the entrance of the Isle of Axholme, 
 beyond which the stream called the Old 
 River Don advances at the edge of the 
 fens, almost parallel with the Trent, but 
 not reaching it till near its mouth. 
 
 The Idle is a dull sluggish river, with- 
 out any thing remarkable, except where 
 it is improved by art ; this is the last of 
 all the streams which contribute to en- 
 large the Trent, 
 
 The Ancholme is a small river in 
 the wolds of Lincolnshire, rising not far 
 from Market Raisin, and flowing north- 
 ward by Glandford bridge, from whence 
 it is navigable to the Humber, some 
 milesbelow^thejunctionof the Trent, This 
 Stream itself merits but little notice, but 
 the country through which it flows is 
 
52 RIVERS ANt> COAST 
 
 worthy of observation, as constituting 
 one of the great divisions of Lincoln- 
 shire. 
 
 This extensive tract of the Wolds 
 stretches out from Lincoln northward 
 to Barton, and forms a ridge across some 
 intermediate vallies, highly elevated above 
 the level adjoining to the sea coast, and 
 terminating in the fens near Spilsby. 
 Louth, famous for its lofty and beauti- 
 ful spire, is the principal town in this 
 quarter, which by no means abounds in 
 population and villages, being a downish' 
 tract, chiefly remarkable for its fine sheep 
 feed. 
 
 ^-Brocklesby Park, in the midst of the 
 extensive domains of lord Yarborough, 
 occupies the centre of this district, on 
 the highest point of which his lordship 
 has built a superb chapel and mausoleum 
 in a very exquisite Grecian taste, adorn- 
 ed with appropriate statues and marbles 
 from Italy ; this building from its posi- 
 tion commands the whole surrounding 
 < ountry, with the port of Hull across the 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^^ 
 
 Humbcr most comprehensively, forming 
 also a sea-mark, nor is it less to be ad- 
 mired for the elegance of its design and 
 execution. 
 
 Thornton College is a curious rem- 
 nant of antiquity in this neighbourhood, 
 founded in the reign of king Stephen, 
 great part of which is yet preserved, 
 with some modern additions. 
 
 The Je7ts of Lincolnshire exhibit the 
 second division of that large county, 
 which h^s been described sufficiently in 
 treating of its rivers, but the third por- 
 tion (entitled the Heath) has not yet 
 been mentioned, as the Witham is the 
 only stream of note which traverses it, 
 and that only partially. This tract is 
 now much inclosed, extending south- 
 ward from Lincoln to Ancaster, between 
 two ridges, one of which covered with 
 villages fronts the wxst over Notting- 
 hamshire, and the other overlooks the 
 great level of the fens to the east. 
 
 Numerous are the villages on this side 
 under the ridge, in the midst of w^hich 
 
54 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Mr. Chaplin has surrounded his hand- 
 some seat at Blankney with extensive 
 plantations, and carried the improve- 
 ments of agriculture and drainage far 
 into the adjoining fens, with great spirit 
 as* well as judgment. Surrounded here 
 by a numerous and amiable family, he 
 exhibits the truly estimable character 
 (too rare, alas ! at present) of an Eng- 
 lish country gentleman, of high family 
 and fortune, living with great credit to 
 himself and utility to the public, on his 
 own territory. 
 
Rt' 
 

 ^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^^5^W_^da\i^aA( SoaiWaugh^ 
 
 
 
 WBamboroiuii 
 
 \ TaacastciV ^/ \ ^ 
 X S H ^^I S R E \ 
 
 \ 
 
 
 -^ 
 
 \ ^-v-^-v yJ-<^onc aster \ 
 
 \ ^%,ffiRotiierlxam / 
 
 
 lO TO .>» 
 
 
 
 lit'iti.^} .\fil.\i\ 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^^ 
 
 CHAR IV, 
 
 Congress of the Rivers of Yorkshire, which 
 unite with the Trent and Ancholme to 
 form the Humber — The Don, The Cal- 
 der. The Aire, The Wharf, The NidcJ, 
 The Ure, The Swale, forming at last 
 The Northern Ouse, which combines all 
 these streams — Junction of The Der- 
 went from the North- East — Grand 
 JEsttiary of The Humber produced by 
 the general union — Cursory description of 
 Yorkshire, from the mouth of The Hum- 
 ber /o The Tees of Durham, 
 
 The Don rises in the high moors of 
 Yorkshire, adjoining to Derbyshire, not 
 far from the dismal hamlet and public 
 house of Wood-End, at the jundion of 
 four roads in that dreary waste. It takes 
 a south-eastern line to Sheffield, and then 
 turns to the north-east by Rotherham to 
 
 I 
 
^6 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Doncaster ; soon after which it alters its 
 course to the north at Thorne, and then 
 to the north-east again, joined by The 
 Went, from the interior of the West-Rid- 
 ing, to meet the Northern Ouse at Goolc 
 in one branch, and the Aire below Snaith 
 in another. 
 
 Except among the moors which form 
 its source. The Don is not a rapid river, 
 and the first part of its course only is 
 through a wild country. The great ma- 
 nufa6lures of Sheffield and Rotherham 
 flourish on its banks, and cover all the 
 adjoining country wuth their works. The 
 vale it fofms to Doncaster is extremely 
 beautiful;i and ornamented with many 
 fine seats ; the hills also above Rother- 
 ham, towards the north, are covered 
 with the spreading plantations, splendid 
 mansion, and high ornamental buildings 
 of Lord Fitzwiljiam at Wentworth. The 
 terrace in Mrs Finch's finely wooded park 
 at Thrybergh, commands the vale in 
 great perfedion ; and a little lower, the 
 pifturesque ruin of Connisburgh Castle, on 
 
OF GTIEAT BRITAIN. 57 
 
 a high wooded rock, is nearly encompass- 
 ed by the river. Don caster is one of the 
 handsomest country towns in England, 
 situated at the extremity of this charming 
 yale, and the Gothic fabric of Its church 
 is justly admired. The Don afterwards 
 sinks into that extensive flat which en- 
 virons the Ouse, passing under Lord 
 Doyvne's large seat of Cowick, near the 
 small town of Snaith ; the lower of its 
 two channels appears to be a navigable 
 fCUt, and is called the Dutch river. 
 
 The Caldeh takes its source on t^i^ 
 torders of Lancashire not far from Burn- 
 ley, pursuing a course nearly eastward to 
 Wakefield, with manifold w^indings ; af- 
 ter which it turns rather to the north, 
 till it joins the Aire near Ferrybridge, at 
 the village of Castleford. 
 
 This river is more rapid than the Don, 
 and is intersected by various canals in the 
 manufafiuring countries it passes through, 
 which form a junction between the east-^ 
 cm and western seas, across the kingdom 
 from Liverpool to Hull. It rises in thp 
 
58 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 moors, and flows through a populous and 
 romantic district, leaving the flourishing 
 town of Huddersfield on the right ; it 
 passes under Wakefield afterwards, and 
 forms a fine curve to its junction with the 
 Aire, near Sir Rowland Wynne's great 
 house at Nostall. 
 
 The Aire rises from a small lake in 
 the great moors, not far from the source 
 o( the Ribble of Lancashire, and some- 
 what on the north-east of Settle, de- 
 scending through Aire- dale, to form the 
 district of Craven in its course to the 
 south-east, which it pursues as far as 
 Leeds. It then turns nearly eastward, 
 and meeting the Calder, passes under Fer- 
 rybridge, thence traversing the flat of 
 Yorkshire, a little north of Snaith, where 
 it receives the Don, and soon joins the 
 Otise, a little above Booth Ferry, near 
 Howden. 
 
 The Aire is longer than The CaJder, 
 and much its superior in navigation, be- 
 ing also joined by numerous canals from 
 the west. Its origin is almost mountain'"^ 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 1J9 
 
 pus, in the midst of the wildest moors, 
 and Aire-dale partakes strongly in the na- 
 ture of that hne of country. The dis- 
 trict of Craven is singularly romantic, 
 being a rich vale, bounded by high hills, 
 with the town of Skipton in its centre, 
 below which it forms a beautiful valley 
 to Keighley, full of trade and population ; 
 it passes by the ruin of Kirk stall Abbey in 
 its way to Leeds, all the manufactures 
 and villas of which flourishing place and 
 its vicinage encompass its banks, after 
 which it divides one of the richest plains 
 in the kingdom to Ferrybridge, not tar 
 from the eminence where the town of 
 Pontefract is situated, remarkable for its 
 ruined castle and church, as well as its 
 plantations of liquorice. Ferrybridge is 
 a charming spot, with an admirable inn 
 at its foot, but the Aire can boast little 
 beauty afterwards, as it advances through 
 an undistinguished level to join TheOusCy 
 not far from The Don. 
 
 The Wharfe rises in the moors of 
 Yorkshire, considerably northward of The 
 
60 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 j4ire, joined by the little stream which 
 forms Langther Dale, and pursuing a 
 course a little deviating from the south, 
 tow ards the east, till turned by the high 
 hills of Rombald's moor, it flows east- 
 ward by Otlcy to Weatherby, where it 
 again turns to the south-east to Tadcas- 
 ter, and joins the Ouse near Cawood. 
 
 The Wharfe is not equal in size to the 
 Aire, but infinitely more rapid, which 
 restrains its navigation. Wharfe-dale is 
 a wild district, but the valley afterwards 
 formed by Otlcy to Weatherby, is un- 
 commonly beautiful. The view from 
 the hill called Otley-Shiven i5 striking 
 in the extreme, and some part of the great 
 territory of Harewood commands this 
 valley happily. At Weatherby, tlie Wharfe 
 is yet a mountain torrent, and still more 
 fo at the romantic spot where the spring 
 of Thorp-Arch attracts the public. It is 
 little worthy of notice afterwards, as it 
 sinks into the level below Tadcaster, nor 
 is there now any thing striking at Cawood 
 Falacc, which was once so splendid. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN-; 6'l 
 
 The NiDD rises in Nitherdale forest, 
 m the moors bounding the north-riding 
 of Yorkshire, forming, like the other ri- 
 vers of this country, its appropriate dale ; 
 its course is rather more eastward than 
 that of the Wharfe, and it incUnes almost 
 to the north from Ribston to meet the 
 Ouse, 
 
 The Nldd has all the rapidity of a moun- 
 tainous stream, and preserves that charac- 
 ter to the last, exhibiting many peculiar 
 fcenes of romantic beauty. From Pateley 
 Bridge, not far from its origin, it buries 
 itself between deep hollows throusfh Nid^ 
 desdale, leaving Ripley on the left, and 
 dashing over a rough bed of red rock to 
 reach Knaresborough. Scrlven Park, the 
 seat of Sir Thomas Slingsby, and the re- 
 spectable mansion of Yorkshire hospita- 
 lity, occupies a fine position here, and is 
 remarkable for its well-judged approach, 
 winding through a thick plantation, till 
 it reaches the lawn before the house. 
 From one of the heights of tliis park, the 
 windings of the Nidd appear to great ad- 
 
4^ UTTERS AND COAST* 
 
 vantage, as they pass round Sir John 
 Coghiirs picturesque grounds in the hol- 
 low below, and more than half encom- 
 pass the bold rock on which the ancient 
 town of Knaresborough, and the frag- 
 ments of its castle hang suspended. A 
 thick wood covers the opposite steep 
 bank, at the extremity of which is that 
 singular natural curiosity called the drop- 
 ping well. This part of the country 
 abounds in objects worthy of a traveller's 
 attention; the groundsofPlumpton, where 
 wood, water, and rock are most singular- 
 ly intermixed, being contiguous ; and the 
 sulphureous springs of Harrogate on its 
 wild heath, now the most crowded re- 
 sort of gaiety in the north, not far dis- 
 tant. After passing the three bridges of 
 Knaresborough, tJie Nidd exchanges its 
 deep hollows for a rich plain, distinguish- 
 ed by several seats, in which it meets 
 the Ouse, 
 
 The Yore or Ure finds its source 
 on the borders of Westmoreland, in the 
 northern moors of Yorkshire, flowing first 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 6^ 
 
 eastward, and then inclining a little to the 
 south to Rippon, from whence it turns 
 again more eastward to Boroughbridge 
 and Aldborough, soon after which it re- 
 ceives the Swale from Richmond, both 
 these rivers forming the Ouse, 
 
 The Ure, like the rivers lately described, 
 is produced by a very rugged district, 
 which at the head of Ure-dale, may be 
 called even mountainous ; in its passage 
 through Wensley-dale afterwards, near 
 Askrigg, it assumesthe rapidity of amoun- 
 tain torrent, fed by cataracts from the 
 hills, and sometimes falling itself from a 
 considerable height. Wensley-dale it- 
 self is a charming stripe of fertility en- 
 vironed by high moors, some of which 
 start forward into the vale in the boldest 
 shapes, one being crowned with the ruin 
 of Bolton Castle. Askrigg occupies the 
 head, Middleham, with its castle, the 
 centre, and Masham the extremity of this 
 valley ; after which the Ure becomes in- 
 gulfed within higher hills covered with 
 woods, and protruding in bold rocks. 
 
64 RtVERS AND COAST 
 
 forming a grand sweep, and roaring over 
 a rocky bed in front of the romantic steep 
 grounds, wooded heights, and cataracts 
 of Hackfali. The proud display of Stud- 
 ley Royal, including the superb ruins of 
 Fountain's Abbey, covers the neighbour- 
 ing hills with the extended domain of its 
 park, and highly-ornamented gardens ; 
 both these places, with the great estates 
 surrounding them, belonging to the same 
 amiable owner, Mrs. Allanson, whom ill 
 health, alas ! has long prevented from vi- 
 siting them. The lire passes north w^ard 
 of the neat town of Rippon, whose an- 
 cient minster appears to great advan- 
 tage, when viewed from the high terrace 
 of Studley ; and Newby Hall, the reposi- 
 tory of the Jate Mr Weddell's curious 
 collection of statues, occupies a flat above 
 the Ure, which now enters the great level 
 of Yorkshire as it approaches Borough- 
 bridge (where the north road crosses it 
 over a handsome stone bridge), and the 
 neighbouring town of Aldborough, both 
 of which abound in antiquities. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 6^ 
 
 The Swale rises somewhat north- 
 ward o( the Ure, in the. same wild range 
 of moors, not far from Kirkby Stephen in 
 Westmoreland. Its course is at first to 
 the south-east, but it afterwards turns to 
 the north-east to Richmond, from whence 
 it pursues nearly its original direction to its 
 junction with the Ure, 
 
 Though less than the lire, this river is 
 equally rapid, and Swale-dale is one of 
 the most romantic districts in England, 
 surrounded by the wildest hills. Few 
 views are more strikingly picturesque 
 than those of this river, from the castle 
 and church-yard of Richmond, which 
 fine old town occupying the summit of 
 a steep clifF, exhibits a striking object to 
 the surrounding country. Even after it 
 descends into the great plain of York- 
 shire, flowing through Catterick bridge, 
 where the Edinburgh road by Carlillc 
 crosses it ; the Swale preserves much of 
 its original rapidity till it becomes united 
 with the Ure, 
 
 The Northern Ouse is formed by 
 F 
 
66 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 the junction of the Ure and the Swale, 
 taking that name first near the village of 
 Ouse-burn below Alborough. Its course 
 is nearly south-east to York, south to Ca- 
 wood, where it turns with the iVharfe 
 again to the south-cast, and pursues that 
 direction with various windings, till it 
 meets the Trent, and constitutes the Hum- 
 her. 
 
 The Otise differs materially from the 
 streams which contribute to form it, all 
 their rapidity being lost at the time of 
 their junction, as it docs not assume its 
 name till both the Ure and the Swale, its 
 first component rivers, have long tra- 
 versed the great plain of Yorkshire. It 
 is a dull fluggish stream, like the Ouse 
 of Bedfordshire, neither contributing to 
 'adorn the surrounding country, nor re- 
 ceiving any beauty from it. A great city, 
 abundant navigation, and various ports, 
 with some striking remnants of Gothic 
 architecture, must here supply the want 
 of romantic fcenery, and a picturesque 
 landscape. The JStdd joins the Ouse at 
 
 7 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 67 
 
 Monkton, a lew miles before it reaches 
 York, the second city in England in rank, 
 though inferior to many in trade and po- 
 pulation. Its magnificent Cathedral, 
 being the largest in England, and in the 
 richest stile of the ornamented Gothic, 
 appears like a vast ship at sea, when 
 viewed across the almost boundless le- 
 vels which encompass it. The Ouse is 
 here crossed by an ancient stone bridge, 
 below which the navigation becomes 
 very considerable, and the numerous 
 churches of York, with the high build- 
 ings of its castle, lie spread along its 
 northern bank for a great extent. The 
 fiat degenerates into a low sandy level, 
 in fome parts partaking of the nature of 
 a fen, after the river has passed the hand- 
 some palace of Bishopthorpe, and ad- 
 vanced to Cawood, where the Wharf e 
 joins it. At Selby, a neat town of con- 
 siderable trade, a very curious wooden 
 bridge is thrown over the Ouse, which is 
 so constructed as to turn upon grooves 
 of iron, for the purpose of allowing the 
 
68 UIVER9 AND COAST 
 
 passage of large vessels. Selby church is 
 a fine specimen of the ornamented Gothic, 
 but thatof Howden, about a mile north- 
 ward of the river, though most part of it 
 is in ruins, is greatly its superior ; the 
 tower, in particular, is one of the high- 
 est and richest in England, and the view 
 it commands over the extensive flat which 
 surrounds it, is almost without end. This 
 may be called the sink of Yorkshire, the 
 country (though enclosed) being deep 
 and occasionally sandy, almost without a 
 mole-hill to distinguish it, except where 
 the moors are faintly visible at a great 
 distance, skirting the western horizon, 
 the Wolds near Market Weighton and 
 Beverley, appearing fomewhat nearer in 
 the north-east, and the high grounds of 
 Lincolnshire beyond the Trent in the 
 south-east. Through this immense^ and 
 uninteresting flat, the Onse rolls its broad 
 muddy stream in various windings with- 
 out beauty, being crossed by several in- 
 convenient ferries, which form the only 
 communication o\er it below Selby. It 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 69 
 
 receives the ji ire khoye Howden, and soon 
 afterwards is considerably increased by 
 the accession of the Deruoent from the 
 north, which is produced by the union of 
 three streams originating in the eastern 
 moors not far from Pickering, and Helms- 
 ley, one of which washes the sequestered 
 walls of Rivaulx abbey, flowing beneath 
 the proud terraces of Duncombe park. 
 Lord Carlisle's grand display of Castle 
 Howard lies a few miles westward of this 
 stream, which enters the Wolds, having 
 then united its branches, at the neat 
 town of Malton, and defcends through 
 them southward, falling into the great 
 level about six miles eastward of York, 
 and meeting the Ouse, now considerably 
 increased in width, a few miles before its 
 great junction with tJie Tre?it, 
 
 The Humber is thus constituted, that 
 most considerable asstuary in the north of 
 England, uniting so many great streams, 
 and transporting such various articles of 
 commerce to and from the western side 
 of Yorkshire and Lancashire. Nature now, 
 
 F3 
 
70 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 as if invited by this broad sheet of water, 
 exalts itself from the level it had reposed 
 in, and the rival shores of Yorkshire and 
 Lincolnshire, rise for a while into bold 
 hills, from which this great arm of the 
 sea is finely overlooked. Hesslc, from 
 whence a ferry is constituted to Barton, 
 occupies a charming eminence, and the 
 drive from thence across the hills, towards 
 the Wolds, is delightfully pleasant; com- 
 manding the handsome town of Beverley, 
 with its elegant Gothic minster in a rich 
 vale below, and the flourishing port of 
 Hull, whose fine old church, and numer- 
 ous buildings, appear enveloped in smoke, 
 and encompassed with a crowd of ship- 
 ping, while the whole expanse between 
 Yorkshire and Lincolnshire is filled by 
 the broad mirror of the Humber. The 
 little River Hull, defcending from the 
 eastern edge of the Wolds, not far below 
 Driffield, and flowing southward princi- 
 pally, contributes to form the port at its 
 junction with fhe Humher, which is ad- 
 mirably constructed, the town accord- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. yi 
 
 ingly bearing the name of Kingston 
 upon Hull. Below this place the country 
 again sinks into a level, intermixed with 
 fens ; the shores of the Humber receding 
 considerably from each other, after nar- 
 rowing for a while at its turn to the south- 
 east, where Holderness, in Yorkshire, 
 with its two towns of Headon and Pa- 
 trington, extends over a large tract of 
 level country, distinguished for its ferti- 
 lity, and marked by the two secluded 
 towns before mentioned. At the extre- 
 mity of this district, it contracts into a 
 small neck of land, forming a curve in 
 the sea towards the south-west, which 
 spreading into a little circular peninfula, 
 bears the name of Spurnhead, and is 
 crowned with a light-house, immediately 
 opposite to the port of Grimsby in Lin- 
 colnshire, so reaching the mouth of the 
 Humber, Sunk island is formed amidst 
 the sands on the Yorkshire side. 
 
 The coast of Yorkshire, from its ex- 
 treme southern point, does not elevate it- 
 self at all from the level just described, 
 F4 ■ 
 
72 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 till it has passed the little port of Horn- 
 sea, and approaches the quay of Brid- 
 lington, now become a fashionable sea- 
 bathing place. The Wolds here advance 
 towards the coast, and soon start forward 
 in the high promontory of Flamborough 
 Head, whose white perpendicular cliffs 
 . protrude themselves far into the German 
 ocean, forming a beacon to this part of 
 the Yorkshire coast. Scarborough, the 
 gay resort of the north during the sum- 
 mer season, lies somewhat higher, being 
 remarkable for the boldness of its shore, 
 and the height of the cliffs on which 
 its castle, not unlike that of Dover, is 
 placed. 
 
 A range of bleak and barren moors, in- 
 terspersed with a few narrow stripes of 
 fertility, extends over the whole country, 
 north of Scarborough, to the coast, one 
 deep hollow of which, formed by a small 
 river, is occupied by the port of Whitby, 
 united by a draw-bridge. The abbey on 
 the top of the hill to the south, is a no- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^ '^ 
 
 ble ruin, and the new buildings on the 
 upper part of the town, to the north, are 
 handsome, commanding a fine sea- view. 
 Uninterrupted moors extend again to the 
 north, till they sink into the pleasant and 
 fertile district of Cleveland, bounded by 
 a variety of bold hills, of which the py- 
 ramidical height of Rosemary-topping is 
 most conspicuous. Stockesley, a place 
 of considerable trade, and Guiseborough, 
 with the fine remains of its abbey, fur- 
 rounded by well-formed walks, are the 
 two towns in this charming tract, which 
 abounds also in seats and villages, open- 
 ing to the sea in several hollows. Towards 
 the northern extremity of the coast, as it 
 turns towards the west from Whitby, the 
 little ports of Redcar and Cottam are 
 pleasantly situated, commanding great 
 part of the opposite shore of Durham, 
 beyond Hartlepool, which place, with 
 its high church, here forms a conspicu- 
 ous object, stretching far into the large 
 bay formed opposite to Yorkshire. Near 
 
74 hiversmAND coast 
 
 the centre of this expanse, the large River 
 Tees makes its exit with great dignity, 
 dividing the counties of Yorkshire and 
 Durham, and bearing the trade of Stock- 
 ton, which is its only port, into the Ger- 
 man ocean. 
 
British Milt^'. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. Jg 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Rivers of Durham — The Tees, The Weare, 
 mid The Derwent, Coast of Durham — 
 Rivers of Northumberland — The Tyne, 
 The Blythe, The Coquet, The Alne, 
 and The Till — Coast of Northumber- 
 land — Boundary Rivers between Eng- 
 land and Scotland — TheTiviot and The 
 Tweed. 
 
 The Tees rises in those vast moors 
 which separate Yorkshire from Durham, 
 Cumberland, Weftmoreland, and Nor- 
 thumberland. Its course is at first rather 
 inclined to the south-east, but beneath 
 Darlington it turns abruptly to the north- 
 east, and falls into the sea below Stock- 
 ton in Durham, which may be called its 
 port. 
 
 The mountains from which the Tees 
 derives its origin, are gigantic, and Tees- 
 dale presents a long winding stripe offer- 
 
y6 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 tility, surrounded by some of thfc wild- 
 est districts in the kingdom. This ex- 
 traordinary valley is more than thirty 
 miles in length, well sprinkled with vil- 
 lages, with the little town of Middlcton 
 near its centre, and Barnard Castle at its 
 eastern extremity. The river itself assi- 
 milates throughout with its external at- 
 tendants, of rocks, moors, and mountains, 
 being broad, shallow, and rapid, frequent- 
 ly ravaging the valley with its inunda- 
 tions, and precipitating itself in vaft ca- 
 taracts. It is here crossed by an extraor- 
 dinary foot bridge suspended by iron 
 chains, after which, buried within deep 
 rocks, and steep w ooded banks, it almost 
 encircles the ancient town of Barnard 
 Castle, dashing through its long bridge 
 beneath the walls of its castle ; afterwards 
 it enters a deep dell beneath the Abbey 
 of Egglestone, tearing its way with rapi- 
 dity through the rich domain of Rokeby, 
 below which it receives the Greta from 
 Yorkshire, and another small stream from 
 the moors of Durham, forming a fine 
 
• OF GREAT BRITAIN. 77 
 
 feature in the highly ornamented terri- 
 tory which surrounds the majestic walls 
 and towers of Raby Castle, and the ele- 
 gantly-disposed grounds of Mr. Wane at 
 Sellaby. The Tees still preserves its cha- 
 racter, as it divides Durham from York- 
 shire for a great distance, presenting a 
 striking and romantic object, from which 
 ever side it is viewed. The flourishing 
 town of Darlington, with its high spire, 
 lies a few miles above its northern bank 
 in Durham, and Stockton in the same 
 county, exhibits a street, with a large 
 market house in its centre, which for 
 width and regularity, is surpassed by no 
 country town in England. The Tees is 
 here crossed by a magnificent .stone 
 bridge, and being now affecfted by the 
 tide, admits ships of considerable burden. 
 The We a re finds its source in the 
 same wild range of moors which produce 
 the Tees, but considerably to the north 
 of that river, its course is almost parallel 
 with it, bearing at first to the south-east, 
 and at Bishops Auckland, turning to the 
 
78 RIVERS yVND COAST 
 
 north-cast ; after nearly surrounding the 
 city of Durham, it flows northward to 
 Chester le Street, and then inclines a lit- 
 tle towards the cast, to reach its port of 
 Sunderland. 
 
 The Wearc may be called a miniature 
 oi the Tees, much resembling that river 
 in character, though greatly its inferior 
 in width and rapidity. Weare-dale is 
 (like Tees- dale) a very wild and romantic 
 district, yet pleasantly interspersed with 
 villages, headed by the market town of 
 Wolsingham. Emerging from these re- 
 cesses, the Weave flows boldly beneath the 
 town of Bishops Auckland, and below 
 the park of that princely territory, which 
 many successive bishops of Durham have 
 contributed to embellish as the principal 
 residence of that rich and powerful see. The 
 present Bishop, enabled by a fortune su- 
 perior to most of his predecessors, has 
 made considerable improvements and ad- 
 ditions, with tafte and liberality ; which 
 appear to great advantage, in descending 
 from the lodges opening from the Durham 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 79 
 
 road; where the venerable pile of the Go- 
 thic Chapel exalts itself above the nume- 
 rous more modern buildings, fronted by 
 an extensive portico in an appropriate 
 taste. The Weave buries its winding 
 course in deep dales, till it is arrested h^ 
 the high circular hill which is crowned 
 by the majeftic Cathedral, and stately 
 Castle of Durham, from whence the city 
 descends in steep winding streets to its 
 three bridges, which terminate in long 
 fuburbs. A more singular position for 
 the capital of a county can hardly be 
 imagined, and the effect of these vast 
 objects, from their elevated situation, is 
 wonderfully striking ; but the streets are 
 mostly narrow, steep, and inconvenient 
 Almost the whole summit is covered by 
 the Cathedral and its two closes, one of 
 which contains the superb residences of 
 the Dean and Chapter, the other being 
 appropriated to the Bishop. The County 
 Hall is within his great precincts, and the 
 majestic towers of his almost regal castle, 
 overhang the Weave proudly from the sum- 
 
8|0^ RIVERS AXD/ COAST 
 
 mlt of a perpendicular rock. It contain^ 
 many noble apartments, and would make 
 a distinguished figure, were the same taste 
 and spirit which has adorned Bishops 
 Auckland fo fuccessfuUy, extended to 
 this majestic pile, but of late (though 
 kept in sufficient repair) it has been rarely 
 inhabited, except on public occasions, by 
 its Prince Palatine. The steep and wood- 
 ed banks of the Weare present some very 
 pleasant walks, as it encompasses Durham, 
 and exhibit much romantic fcenery about 
 Mr. Carr's neighbouring scat at Cockcn. 
 The stately pile of Lumley Castle, after- 
 wards overlooks it, and its exit to the sea, 
 near the crowded port of Sunderland, is 
 graced with an iron bridge, matchlefs in 
 its design and architecture, beneath which 
 vessels in full sail may pass. 
 
 The Derwent rises northward of 
 the Weave in the same range of the Dur- 
 ham moors, and at first pursues an east- 
 earn direction, which afterwards inclines 
 more to the north, as it advances towards 
 
0^ GtlEAt BRITAIN. St 
 
 lh$ Tyne at the southern border of Nor- 
 thumberland, a little above Newcastle. 
 
 The short courfe of this river has no* 
 thing very striking in it> being at first 
 vsrild and mountainous, and afterwards 
 forming a valley, which encreases in cul- 
 tivation, and at last beciomes environed 
 with coal works. Gibside, the old seat 
 of the Straithmore family, and Axwell 
 park, decorated with much taste by the 
 late Sir Thomas Clavering, are near the 
 banks of this stream, nor is Ravens worth 
 Castle far distant. 
 
 The coast of Durham is flat for some 
 distance from the mouth of the Tees, 
 where the modern public place of Seaton 
 has risen into consequence, and eclipsed 
 its deserted rival of Hartlepool. An un- 
 wholesome marsh surrounds the latter 
 place, which is in a state of much decay, 
 but it forms a fine object from the sea 
 and the Yorkshire coast, owing to the 
 bold figure of its church, and its promi- 
 nent position; an undulating range of hills 
 ensues, among which Mr. Burdon has 
 G 
 
8:? RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 formed his fine place of Castle Eden ; but 
 the coast beyond Sunderland is bleak and 
 dreary to the point where the opposite 
 townsofNorth and SouthShieldsexalt their 
 sooty heads, and the bold ruin of Tyne- 
 mouth Castle marks the exit of the Tyfie^ 
 
 The Tyne of Northumberland origi- 
 nates in two considerable ftreams, of which 
 (the southern) rises in two branches not 
 far from the source of the Tees in Durham, 
 flowing northward, a little inclined to the 
 west by Aldstonc, after which it turns 
 eastward to meet the North Tyne, which, 
 rising in the moors of Northumberland, 
 close to the borders of Roxburghshire \r\ 
 Scotlaiid, and joined by the Reed below 
 Bellingham, pursues a south-west course 
 till it joins its southern colleague. Both 
 the branches being thus united, this great 
 river takes an eastward direction, and at 
 last turning a little towards the north, dis- 
 charges itself into the sea, beneath the 
 walls of Tynemouth Castle. 
 
 Highly mountainous in its origin, the 
 courfe of each branch of the Tyne is truly 
 
OF GREAT BRlTAIJf. 83 
 
 wild and romantic ; and Tyne-dale may 
 vie with Tecs- dale in natural beauty, 
 though it becomes greatly its superior in 
 cultivation. Aldstone covers the w^hole 
 surrounding country with its w^orks near 
 the head of the South Tyne, and Belling- 
 ham stands as far retired towards the head 
 of the northern branch ; the considerable 
 tow^n of Hexham, which may be called 
 the capital of Tyne-dale, occupying a cen- 
 tral spot near their jundlion. The Tyne, 
 thus encreased, flows proudly through a 
 vale full of riches and manufactures to 
 Newcastle, the flourishing port and capi- 
 tal of Northumberland, as well as the 
 great emporium of the northern coal- 
 trade. The streets of this town were for- 
 merly wonderfully steep, narrow, and in- 
 convenient; but great improvements have 
 taken place of late, and more are meditat- 
 ed. The fmoke of the numerous works 
 and surrounding collieries, fomewhat de- 
 faces the buildings of this place ; but the 
 quay, where the mansion-house and ex- 
 change are situated, makes a very re- 
 
84 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 specSable appearance, and the spire of the 
 great church of St. Nicholas, springing 
 from four light Gothic arches, is a beau- 
 tiful objedl. A long stone bridge here di- 
 vides the counties, separating Newcastle 
 from the opposite town of Gateshead in 
 Durham, and ships of moderate burden 
 can come up to it ; but the towns of 
 North and South Shields are the proper 
 ports of the Tyne. Its asstuary presents a 
 beautiful object to the high hills on either 
 side, being crowded with vessels, and 
 winding in great reaches between high 
 banks, which are every where covered 
 with fplendid villas, belonging to the 
 opulent merchants of Newcastle ; nor is 
 its exit to the sea less striking, where the 
 bold ruin of Tynemouth Castle projects 
 on the summit of a lofty cliff, terminat- 
 ing the northern shore abruptly. 
 
 The Blythe and The Wensbeck 
 are two small rivers of Northumberland, 
 north of the Tyne, flowing nearly east- 
 ward from the centre of that country to 
 the sea. Tjie port of Blythe^ famous for 
 
OF GREAT BRITAils^ 8^ 
 
 its coal trade, is near the mouth of the 
 former river, and principally belongs to 
 Sir Matthew White Ridley, whose hos- 
 pitable seat of Blagdon makes a hand- 
 some appearance from two elegant mo- 
 dern lodges, which form its approach 
 from the north road. Seaton Delaval, 
 one of the heaviest buildings of Sir John 
 Vanbrugh's construction, lies somewhat 
 lower on the coast, sorrounded by col- 
 lieries. The Wensheck passes the neat town 
 of Morpeth in its way to the sea, but 
 neither of these rivers have any distin- 
 guishing features. 
 
 The Coquet rises near the eastern 
 border of Roxburghshire, but within the 
 limit of Northumberland, flowing south- 
 cast, till somewhat below Rothbury, and 
 turning to the north-east to reach the sea 
 at Wark worth. 
 
 This is a gentle river, flowing through 
 la pleasant country for the latter part of 
 its course ; the Hermitage of Wark worth 
 on its banks is a singular building, being 
 perhaps the only one of that description 
 
 G3 
 
86 
 
 RIVERS AXD COAST 
 
 in England, which is in high prescrva* 
 tion. Wark worth Castle is a magnifi- 
 cent rulri, and was capable of having been 
 made a superb residence by the late Duke 
 of Northumberland, had he not preferred 
 Alnewick ; it overlooks the sea and the 
 mouth of the Coquet very finely. 
 
 The Alne rises north of the Coquet, 
 pursuing nearly a parallel direction, but 
 is a smaller river, nor is its course so long. 
 Its only great objects are placed in the 
 lar-extended territory of the Duke of Nor- 
 thumberland, at the entrance of which 
 the lofty building called Brisley Tower, 
 environed by thick plantations, overlooks 
 all the northern part of the wild county 
 of Northumberland, including the bold 
 range of Cheviot hills on the north-west, 
 close to the Scottish border. The Ahie 
 then enters a charming valley beneath the 
 ivied walls of Hulne Abbey, which 
 winds delightfully between lawns, woods, 
 and groups of trees apd cottages, admi- 
 rably disposed. From these monastic and 
 rustic recesses, the river emerges into a 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 8/ 
 
 specious park, widened considerably by 
 art, and gliding through the arches of a 
 fine Castellan bridge, is proudly over- 
 looked by the numerous towers, and lofty 
 citadel of Alnewick Castle, the superb 
 seat of the Northumberland family. This 
 majestic pile, mostly rebuilt by the late 
 Duke, may boast a degree of regal splen- 
 dour ; and though somewhat too gaudily 
 fitted up within, exhibits a noble range 
 of apartments, and presents a most strik- 
 ing object to the neighbourhood. The 
 country surrounding the Alne is afterwards 
 far from pleasant, and that stream meets 
 the sea at its little port of Alnemouth. 
 
 The Till is a considerable stream, 
 being the last of the rivers of Northum- 
 berland, rising somewhat south of the 
 Cheviot hills, and fed by various springs 
 from that wild expanse, as it encompasses 
 it at a considerable distance. Its course 
 is first to the east, and afterwards, with 
 a great sweep and various windings, to the 
 north-west, till it falls into the Tzveedhc- 
 low Cornhill. The Till forms for itself 
 
 G4 
 
88 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 a pleasant valley in the midst of a rude 
 encircling waste, and its banks are adorned 
 w^ith several villages and some seats. 
 
 The coast of Northumberland, for a 
 considerable distance northward of New- 
 castle, is covered with collieries ; nor has 
 it any thing remarkable beyond the ob- 
 jects already described^ except a small 
 island at the mouth of the Coquet y till 
 Bamborough Castle, the seat of Bishop 
 Crewe's excellent charity for ship- wrecked 
 seamen, projects far into the sea, on the 
 summit of a bold promontory. The cluster 
 of the Farn Isles lies a little to the north, 
 and Holy Island, on which are some me- 
 morable ecclesiastical remains of antiqui- 
 ty, is between them and the mouth of 
 the Tweed, which is a little below Ber- 
 wick. 
 
 The Tiviot and The Tweed may 
 properly be called the boundary rivers be- 
 tween England and Scotland, though 
 they certainly appertain more strongly to 
 the latter country ; nor does the Tiviot in- 
 deed pass at all through England. Its 
 
OF GREAT BRITA.11^. 89 
 
 source is in the wild hills not far from 
 Mosspaul Inn on the Carlisle road, in the 
 centre of Roxburghshire, where it flows 
 almost northward to Hawick, inclining 
 afterwards more towards the east, met by 
 the Jed'ccaithe Kale, till it joins the Tweed 
 near Kelso. The short course of this ra- 
 pid stream, after its exit from the hills, is 
 through the beautiful and highly-roman- 
 tic district ofTiviot-dale, profusely adorned 
 with seats, and well sprinkled with villa- 
 ges. The town of Hawick, on the north 
 road, occupies a charming spot over the 
 river at the entrance of that district; and 
 Jedburgh, with its ancient abbey, lies on 
 the hills, about two miles above its centre, 
 where the bridge of Ancram is built over 
 it. The junction of the Thiot w ith the 
 Tweed, a little south v/ard of Kelso, forms 
 a charming fcene ; and Fleurs, the ele- 
 vated seat of the Duke of Roxburgh^ no 
 where appears to so much advantage, as 
 from the high bank above the point of 
 their union. 
 
 The Tweed finds its distant origin in 
 
90 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 the mountainous district, which unites 
 the counties of Ayr, Dumfries, and Pee- 
 bles, in Scotland, somewhat northward 
 of the celebrated springs of Moffatt ; its 
 course is north-east to Peebles, where it 
 makes a compass to the south-east, re- 
 ceiving the Yarrow and Entrtck Waters 
 soon after their junction near Selkirk, 
 uniting with the Tiv'tot at Kelso, and thd 
 Till at Cornhill, and falling into the sea 
 below Berwick. 
 
 Nothing can be more wild and dreary 
 than the early course of this great rivef, 
 as it is fed by innumerable torrents from 
 the bare hills it divides, and seems to col- 
 lect its forces in the pleasant vale in which 
 its first town, Peebles, is situated, bear- 
 ing the appropriate name of Tweedale. 
 After this, the country throughout con- 
 tinues rude and bleak, except on the 
 immediate banks of the Tweed, that river 
 forming here, for a great distance, the 
 principal boundary between England and 
 Scotland, and the surrounding tracts on 
 each side having been for ages the theatre 
 
OF GREAT ERfTAIir. §1 
 
 of disputes, national contests, and mu- 
 tual hostilities. Marks of their ravages may 
 still be traced, and much of the country- 
 contiguous to the Tweed appears more 
 neglected than the interior districts ; yet 
 is it now gradually emerging from this 
 eclipse, and the Scottish side in particu- 
 las rises rapidly in cultivation, ornament, 
 and improvement. A little below Sel- 
 kirk, the beautiful remains of Melrose 
 Abbey strongly arrest the attention of the 
 traveller, and the Tweed is soon afterwards 
 crossed by a handsome modern edifice of 
 the Flybridge, leading from Jedburgh by 
 a new road to Edinburgh. The Duke 
 of Roxburgh's numerous plantations and 
 superb mansion, adorn the part of Twee- 
 dale above Kelso, whose abbey and bridge 
 are striking objects. Coldstream also is 
 pleasantly situated on the Tweed some- 
 what lower, with a stately stone bridge; 
 and an antient one of great length, con- 
 nects the suburb of Tv/ecd mouth with 
 the fortified town of Berwick, which 
 graces the northern shore of this river at 
 its exit to the sea. i 
 
95 RIVERS AND COASTi 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Coast of Scotland from Berwick on Tweed 
 to the Firth of Forth — Rivers of Scot •- 
 land north o/'the Tweed ayidxhc Tiviot 
 — Course and General Character o/'the 
 Forth and its auxiliary streams y with the 
 grand display of Edinburgh from its 
 Firth — The Levcn and Eden of Fife- 
 shir e^ and the Coast of that County from 
 the Firth of Forth to the Firth of Tay 
 — The Tay of Perthshire, and its compo- 
 nent streams — its Lake a7id Firth — Ri- 
 vers of Angus — The South and North 
 Esk — ^The Bervie of Kincardine — Ri- 
 vers of Aberdeenshire — The Dee, The 
 Don, The Yethan and Ugie— The 
 Deveron of Bamffshire — The Spey — ^ 
 The Findhorn— The Nairn. 
 
 The first paj-t of the coast of Scotland, 
 ascending northward from the bounds 
 of Berwick, which form a small separate 
 

 V 'ifW^f^M^'-. 
 
 t 
 
 
 _A^**'^T^>>— ■ — jj|- ^^^'^'<""'- 
 
 
 WM^lk 
 
 / ^f^- r^ .■-■■/^s *? t^ _>t?Vv^ 
 
 / ky ^ ^ r--^ ;/•' ^ ' — ^^^^^^^"Vo m 
 
 r^ ■.-■'"' y~>-^^ tj M 1 -it Ji, m 
 
 ^-\\"-'' -^""^-^ \-^ ITirW^^lJKDXKN^ 
 
 Xm""^^ / "" ""\ ..••■ -Ix^X^^^^^^^ § 
 
 
 ^^^x^ y /\^^^^^^C/ 
 
 r E ^\^ ^x^\l v> -y.,^^^^''^^"^'^ 
 
 u^j^^^^^^Z^^^^" "^^ 
 
 <^^^^^^^iii:^'f /?^ • ADwdee ^^^\^ 
 
 
 
 
 y<S H I n E /W?wV^*>^^^^T^^ 1 
 
 ^ ^^-^■"'^'^--^(^i^ff^^^ /^^ 
 
 "^^^^^ry^ •*^5^Uane -^i-.ii^Aiulre^^^ 
 
 '^^^^^^■'; 
 
 '■ .Zzx/;zrtf w>tg/^ 7a^^^^^'^''^'*'^'3>^^yub ay 
 
 
 • 
 
 JO -20 30 
 
 Britj,i-h Miles. 
 
i^ 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 93 
 
 district between South and North Britain, 
 is by no means interesting, the borders 
 having been long neglected for the same 
 reasons which prevailed in the lower parts 
 of Tweed-dale. The dreary moor of 
 Coldingham covers the northern part of 
 this w^ild expanse, through which the Ad- 
 der pursues a south-east direction to join 
 the Tweed near its mouth, and the Eye 
 terminates its short circular course to the 
 north, at Eyemouth. Descending from 
 these heights, to the curious bridge rest- 
 ing in the deep dell of the Pease, on a 
 pillar of enormous height, all the riches 
 of the Lothians display themselves in 
 great profusion, as we approach Dunbar ; 
 after w^hich, the coast forms a bay, to re- 
 ceive the little river Tyne from Hadding- 
 ton, terminating in the rock of the Bafs 
 liland, a little eastward of North Ber- 
 wick, and marking the mouth oi the great 
 Firth of Forth. 
 
 The Forth is the first river of much 
 note northward of the Tweed, and per- 
 haps the most important of any in Scot* 
 
94 RIVnRS AND COAST 
 
 land, from the length of its course, the 
 profusion of its commerce, and its proxi- 
 mity to tlic capital. Its proper rise is in 
 the wild tract of mountains in the west- 
 ern highlands, at the back of the great 
 Ben-Lomond, towards the north-west 
 extremity of Stirlingshire. A little before 
 it reaches Stirling, it is joined by the Teith 
 from the north-west, one branch of which 
 forms Loch Katyern ^nd Loch VanacJier, and 
 ih.QoX}[it,xthcLochsofDoine, Voile, sind Luh- 
 nich, before they meet near Callander, 
 and descend together to Doune ; the Al^ 
 Ian afterwards joins the Forth, flowing to 
 the south-west from Perthshire by Dum- 
 blaine, and the Devon in the same direction 
 afterwards from Kinross-shire. The course 
 of these united streams, which altogether 
 form the Forth, is towards the south-east, 
 after the general junction, but with mul- 
 tiplied windings below Stirling. The 
 Firth of Forth {Firth being the Scottish 
 name for an aestuary, as Loch is for a 
 lake) is thus formed, which, swelling into 
 a vast expanse, and turning at last some- 
 
OF GREA.T BRITAIN. g^ 
 
 what towards the north, divides Edin- 
 burgh and its adjacent counties from Fife- 
 shire, and so falls into the German ocean. 
 Neither the Forth, nor its auxiliary 
 streams in general, are remarkable for ra- 
 pidity, though they take their origin in a 
 mountainous district, nor is the river it- 
 self of any great magnitude, till after the 
 union of its feveral branches. This hap- 
 pens in a rich and fertile plain, bounded 
 towards the north by the long waving 
 ridge of the Ochill hills, and intersected 
 by the frequent meanders of the river, 
 whose incessant curves, when viewed from 
 any eminence, exhibit an apparent la- 
 byrinth of pools of water, which deceive 
 the eye in seeming distinct from each 
 other. In the centre of this plain, a lofty 
 tock rises abruptly, crowned with the pa- 
 lace and church of Stirling, from which 
 that town descends to the east in a long 
 and steep street. Just where the Forth 
 becomes increased by the tide, the little 
 stream of the Carrofi descends into it^ 
 tinged with the produce of its iron works^ 
 
RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 and the great Canal from the Clyde join^ 
 it, transporting the rich manufactures of 
 Paisley and Glasgow, and the trade of 
 the western sea. The forges of Borro- 
 stoness, somewhat below the fine remains 
 of Linlithgow palace, front the ivied walls 
 of Culross Abbey, on the opposite side of 
 the expanded basin, a little below the 
 point where the Avert descends from the 
 south into the Forth, which beneath Ifi- 
 verkeithing is narrowed considerably by 
 a promontory from the north, where the 
 great pass of the Queen's Ferry is esta- 
 blished, about three miles below the 
 high terrace and superb mansion of Hope- 
 ton. The Forth immediately afterwards 
 spreads into a vast arm of the sea, as it 
 sweeps between receding shores, beneath 
 the groves of Barnbugle, and receiving the 
 Almond from the south, approaches Leith, 
 the grand and crowded port of Edin- 
 burgh. 
 
 The Leven and The Eden are the 
 only streams of note in Fifeshire, and 
 neither of them very remarkable, the 
 
OF GREAT IHMTATN. 97 
 
 course of each being short. The Leven 
 falls into the mouth of ///6' Firth of Forth, 
 flowing eastward from Lochleven, a bare 
 pool furrounded by high naked hills, and 
 distinguished by an island containing the 
 castle in which Queen Mary was con- 
 fined. The neat town of Kinross, with 
 its stately mansion house, covers the high 
 bank on the western fide of the lake. 
 Fifeshire abounds in fertile plains, well 
 sprinkled with small towns and villages, 
 among which the mofl: conspicuous are 
 Falkland, noted for the fine ruin of its 
 palace, and Cupar, the handsome county 
 town of Fife. The Fden rising in the 
 central parts of Fifeshire, and watering 
 these rich plains, pafl^es beneath Cupar, 
 and discharges itself into the sea, some- 
 what northward of St. Andrews. 
 
 The coast of Fifeshire is for the most 
 part bolder than the interior country, 
 stretching in a broad semicircle from the 
 Firth of Forth to that of Toy, and com- 
 manding thofe great asstuaries in high 
 perfeftion. On the former are the towns 
 H 
 
g8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 of Crall, Anstruther, Djsert, Kirkaldie, 
 and Kinghorn, opposite to Leith and 
 Edinburgh, and on the latter, Woodha- 
 ven fronts the great port of Dundee ac- 
 crofs the Toy. The eastern coast is strong- 
 ly marked with bold rocks opposing a 
 tempestuous sea, on one of which the 
 majestic ruins, and collegiate grandeur 
 of St. Andrews stand elevated. 
 
 The Tay finds its source in the cen- 
 tral part of the Western Highlands, where 
 the extremity of Perthshire borders on 
 Argyleshire, in a very wild, elevated, and 
 mountainous district. It flows towards 
 the south-east by Tyndrum to Cricnla- 
 rich, and then makes a curve to the 
 north-east as it pervades the valley of 
 Glendochart, pursuing the same direction 
 to form its great lake between Killin and 
 Taymouth, at the former of which places 
 it is joined by the Lochy from the north- 
 west, and a little below the latter by thcLion 
 from the west. It then makes a consi- 
 derable compass by the north, and, meet- 
 ing the Ttcmel defcending in that direc- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. gg 
 
 tion, pursues a southward course with it 
 to Dunk eld, where the Braan from the 
 south-west falls into it. Its tendency is 
 then eastward, till it meets the Isla from 
 the north-east, soon after the junction of 
 that river with the Air die from the north- 
 west. The Toy, thus reinforced, makes 
 a, rapid curve by the wxst to the south, 
 till it reaches Perth, and beneath the 
 rock of Kinnoul turns again to the south- 
 east. The Ear?te from the west joins it 
 near Newburgh, and it then forms its 
 Firth, turning to the north-east, but after 
 it has passed Dundee, inclines once more 
 to the south-east, to make its exit to the 
 sea. 
 
 The Tay is one of the most considera* 
 ble and beautiful rivers in our ifland, tra- 
 versing the whole great county of Perth^, 
 amidst the richest districts of the middle 
 range of Scotland, and forming itself the 
 principal ornament to some of the most 
 romantic tracts in nature. Its source is 
 in one of the highest and wildest emi- 
 nences in the western Highlands, from 
 
 Hz 
 
/OO KIVERS AND COAST 
 
 whence it rushes with a singularly cha- 
 ra6leristic rapidity, through the gloomy 
 hollow ofGlendochart, or the Vale of x\f- 
 fliction, where it forms a small lake, 
 wHth a bare ifland and a castle, which 
 might serve for the abode of melancholy. 
 The pleasant little town of Killin is de- 
 lightfully situated some miles lower, on 
 a neck of land between the two points, 
 where the placid Lochy and the rapid 
 T<TK, strongly contrasting each other in 
 character, form the great expanfe of wa- 
 ter called Loch Toy, Lofty mountains 
 surround this charming lake, encircling a 
 wooded, populous, and wxU -cultivated 
 district ; two good roads pervade the 
 whole, on eminencesoverhanging each side 
 of the water, and command every spe- 
 cies of the sublime and beautiful in land- 
 scape. These scenes are varied happily 
 by the three great turns of Loch Tayy the 
 last of which discloses all the ornament- 
 ed territory of Taymouth, whose groves 
 sweep the whole horizon, stretching 
 across the plain at the bottom of the lake 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. lOI 
 
 from the heads of two opposite moun- 
 tains, and interspersed with many con- 
 spicuous buildings. The Tay makes its 
 exit from the lake through the handsome 
 stone bridge of Kenmore, the church of 
 which village stands finely exalted on an 
 eminence looking directly down Loch 
 Tay. 
 
 This river, now greatly increased by 
 the junction of the Lion from its pleasant 
 dale, but still preserving all its original 
 rapidity, rolls in majestic state between 
 the rich groves of Taymouth, and at 
 Aberfeldie is crofTed by a large stone 
 bridge, built by General Wade when the 
 military roads wxre formed, and graced 
 with a very classic Latin inscription. The 
 Tumel, lately enlarged by the waters of 
 the Carrie tumbling from the highly im- 
 proved district of the Blair of Athol, 
 through the hollow pass of Killicranky, 
 meets the Tay below the romantic spot 
 of Faskally, which after pafles through a 
 finely pastured and well -timbered vale to 
 Dunkeld, the venerable remains of whose 
 
 H3 
 
I02 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 abbey present a fine object close to the 
 Tay, and in the midst of the Duke of 
 Athol's numerous plantations. High ob- 
 truding hills direct its winding course in 
 its exit from the Highlands beneath the 
 scanty remains of the celebrated wood 
 of Birnam, from whence the ruined for- 
 trefs of Dunsinane is seen at a consider- 
 able distance axross the plain. 
 
 The Toy here makes a considerable 
 circuit to meet the Isla from Angus, and 
 then descending beneath the ancient pa- 
 lace of Scone, to the fine city of Perth, 
 passes under the arches of its noble bridge, 
 and sweeps in a bold semicircle round the 
 rock of Kinnoul, opposite to the hill of 
 MoncriefFe, where the Roman legions, 
 struck with astonishment at the grandeur 
 of the fcene before them, suddenly halted 
 and cried, '' Ecce Tiberim." The Eanie 
 descends a little below this spot from 
 CrIefFe, and beneath the elevated pile of 
 Drummond Castle, adorns the fertile vale 
 of Straith Earne, through which its course 
 is parallel with the Tay, till the two ri- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. I03 
 
 vers join near Newburgh. Thus is formed 
 that vaft asstuary called the Firth of Tay, 
 at the head of which the important and 
 flourishing port of Dundee spreads over 
 a considerable eminence ; this Firth nar- 
 rows considerably as it approaches its 
 exit, and falls into the sea beneath the 
 walls of Broughty Castle. 
 
 The North and South Esk are the 
 rivers of Angus. Both these streams rise 
 in the Grampian hills, which form a cen- 
 tral ridge in this part of the ifland, ter- 
 minating in the eastern sea near Aber- 
 deen. They are both rapid rivers, though 
 short in their course, the South Esk flow- 
 ing eastward beneath the high eminence 
 crown'd with the spires of Brechin, and 
 under Sir David Carnegie's well-planted 
 territory of Kinnaird with its superb man- 
 sion, and expanding into a large basin at 
 last in front of the handsome town of 
 Montrose, before it reaches the sea. The 
 course of the North Esk is through a wild- 
 er district, as it divides the counties of 
 Angus and Kincardine, inclining to the 
 
 H4 
 
I04 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 south-east, and falling into the sea a few 
 miles north of Montrose. 
 
 The Bervie is the only proper river 
 in Kincardineshire ; the Dee of Aberdeen- 
 shire forming its northern boundary, and 
 the North Esk of Angus its southern. 
 This river rises also in the Grampian hills, 
 but soon emerging from them, takes its 
 course chiefly tov^ards the south, vs^ith 
 considerable w^indings. The country it 
 traverses is rude, bare, and unequal, nor 
 is the stream itself considerable ; on its 
 southern shore is the small town and port 
 of Inver-bervie in a little bay opening to 
 the sea. 
 
 The Dee and The Don are the two 
 great rivers of Aberdeenshire, enclosing 
 between them the two towns of New and 
 Old Aberdeen. 
 
 The Dee rises at the western extremi- 
 ty of the Grampian hills, near the borders 
 of Inverness-shire, andinterfects the whole 
 chain of that mountainous district in its 
 course to the sea, which tends almost in- 
 variably eastward. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 1 05 
 
 The country encircling this fine river 
 in the early part of its progress, is won- 
 derfully bold and romantic, especially 
 about the Castle-Town of Brae-Marr, 
 and the wells of Pannanach, where the 
 heights are cloathed with vast forests of 
 pines. The Dee afterwards forms a more 
 expanded valley, as it crosses the northern 
 corner of Kincardineshire, and re-enter- 
 ing Aberdeenshire, passes under the arches 
 of a noble bridge, a few miles before it 
 falls into the sea, on the south side of New 
 Aberdeen. 
 
 The Don finds its origin in the Gram- 
 pians, somewhat northward oi the Dee at 
 Brae-Mar, on the borders of BanfF-shire, 
 near Cock-bridge, pursuing a course ra- 
 ther inclined to the north-east, till it 
 meets the Urie from the north-west, a 
 little below Inverurie, from whence it 
 flows to the south- v^est with various 
 windings, till it reaches the sea, somewhat 
 northward of Old Aberdeen. 
 
 The Don is throughout a very rapid and 
 romantic river, buried within its deep 
 
Io6 RIVERS AXD COAST 
 
 banks, and traversing one of the wildest 
 districts in Scotland ; the mighty ruin of 
 Kildrumie Castle frowns over its northern 
 shore, and it afterwards passes by the 
 towns of Monymufkand Kintore, preserv- 
 ing its original character to the last ; even as 
 it approaches the sea, it remains enclosed 
 in a deep hollow fringed with brush-wood, 
 where a singular bridge of one pointed 
 arch crosses it. This river is not naviga- 
 ble, and its capital of Old Aberdeen (now 
 only celebrated for its University) has 
 yielded to the more modern consequence 
 of its southern neighbour, which the large 
 flourishing port of the Dee has enriched 
 with great commercial advantages. 
 
 The Yethan and The Ugie arc 
 the two northern rivers of Aberdeenshire, 
 the former descending from the north- 
 west, by Ellon, to the coast below New- 
 burgh, and the latter pursuing nearly an 
 eastward course, till it meets the sea a 
 little northward of Peterhead. Neither 
 of these rivers is distinguishable for an) 
 peculiar features, the descent of both be- 
 
I 
 
 OF GREAT BRITAIN. IO7 
 
 ing through a dreary and uninteresting 
 wild. 
 
 The Deveron rises in the mountain- 
 ous districts of Banffshire, not far from 
 the source of the Don, dividing that coun- 
 ty from Aberdeenshire throughout ; its 
 course is very winding, inchning princi- 
 pally to the north-east, but turning sud- 
 denly to the south-east to meet the Bogie 
 near Huntley. It then resumes its origi- 
 nal direction, making a great compass to 
 the east by TurefF, from whence it flows 
 chiefly to the north-west, till it falls into 
 the sea at Banff. 
 
 This is a very rapid and beautiful river, 
 with high wooded banks, in the midst of 
 a wild and bare country ; the ornament- 
 ed grounds around the stately fabric of 
 Duff-house, belonging to the Earl of Fife, 
 extend for a great way about its banks, 
 where it is crossed by a fine stone bridge 
 of one arch. Soon afterwards it reaches 
 the bold hill on which the handsome town 
 of Banff is situated, rising abruptly over 
 the sea near the mouth of the Deveron, 
 
108 UIVERS AND COAST 
 
 • ^ The Spey is by far the most rapid 
 river yet dcfcribcd, rising in the centre 
 of those rocks and frightful precipices, 
 with which the vast mountain of the 
 Coriaraich is environed, in the wilds of 
 the northern highlands of Invernefs-shire. 
 A small lake conceals its source, from 
 whence,, with various windings, it pur- 
 sues a north-east direction, gradually ver- 
 ging more and more towards the north, 
 till it reaches the sea below Fochabers. 
 
 Nothing can be imagined more rude 
 and desolate than the early part of this 
 river's course, as it tumbles in a succes- 
 sion of precipitous cataracts from the base 
 of the Coriaraich, and rolls with unpa- 
 ralleled rapidity along the valley it has 
 formed, through an uninhabited district, 
 till it reaches the solitary hamlet of Gar- 
 vamore. A scanty succession of incon- 
 siderable villages then adorns its banks, 
 which swell again into the compass of a 
 small lake, called Loch-Inchy near Ruth- 
 ven Castle, and two of the great military 
 roads to Inverness join near it, as it 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIX. lOg 
 
 crosses a corner of the county of Murray. 
 772^ Spey afterwards divides Inverness- 
 shire from Banff- shire, passing near Grant- 
 To w^n, and through the great forests of 
 pines which encircle the territory of 
 CastleGrant; little afterwards distinguishes 
 its course, though the country it tra- 
 verses becomes more expanded, while the 
 villages still remain scanty and inconsi- 
 derable. The Spey, long before it reaches 
 the small town of Fochabers near its 
 mouth, widens considerably, and becom- 
 ing navigable, transports the abundant 
 pines which clothe its hills, still preserv- 
 ing to the last strong traits of its native 
 rapidity. The extensive plantations, mag- 
 nificent house, and polished grounds of 
 Castle Gordon, decorate its approach to 
 the sea with new features. - 
 
 The Findhorn and The Lossie 
 find their origin in the highland moun- 
 tains of Inverness-shire, and pursue a 
 course nearly parallel with the Spey, the 
 former crossing the two military roads 
 near Corryborough and the bridge of 
 
TIO RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Dulsie, and inclining chiefly to the north- 
 east, till it forms a lake before it reaches 
 the sea below Fores. The latter has no 
 great features, but finds its exit below the 
 port of Cullen. 
 
 The Ftndhorn is a far less river than the 
 Spey, but imitates it in rapidity, having 
 a peculiar pellucid transparency in its 
 waters, which reflect their pebbly bed so 
 strongly as to dazzle the stranger, when 
 he fords it. Fores is a very handsome 
 town, about a mile distant from its east- 
 ern bank, not far from its mouth, in the 
 midst of a country celebrated for classic 
 fame, and stored with fine objects of an- 
 tiquity. The Danish pillar of King Su- 
 eno exhibits a wonderful curiosity a little 
 above this place, and the fine remains of 
 Kinloss Abbey are not far distant ; the 
 blasted heath also, where Macbeth is sup- 
 posed to have met the witches, extends 
 far on the road to Elgin, the venerable 
 towers of whose ruined Cathedral pre- 
 sent very curious and interesting objects. 
 The district on the south and west of 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. HI 
 
 Fores is extremely beautiful, rising in 
 gentle eminences tufted with groves, in 
 the midst of rich enclosures and pastures, 
 and bounded by the thick woods of Dar- 
 naway forest, whose castle (the seat of 
 the Earls of Murray) appears in grand 
 display. The Findhorn forms a large ba- 
 sin, as it admits the tide below Fores, 
 from whence it opens into the sea thro' 
 a narrow strait, on the eastern shore ot 
 which the village and port bearing its 
 name are situated. The opposite bank is 
 covered by hillocks of light sand, which 
 are blown over many hundred acres of 
 the contiguous land, destroying its ver- 
 dure. 
 
 The Nairn rises a little to the north- 
 west of the course of the Findhorn, in the 
 same pile of mountains, and pursues a 
 parallel line towards the north-cast. This is 
 a much less river than the former, flowing 
 through a wild and uninhabited country 
 from Straith-Nairn, and crossing the two 
 military roads. Very little beauty at- 
 tends its course, except as it passes 
 
Ii:: RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 near the castle of Calder, celebrated for 
 the murder of Duncan King of Scotland 
 by Macbeth. It approaches the dirty town 
 and small port of Nairn over a marsh, 
 from whence a noble view extends across 
 the north-east bay of Scotland to the 
 bold rocks called the Suiters of Cromartie, 
 the level point of Tarhet-Ness in Ross- 
 shire, the rude coast of Sutherland, and 
 the rocky promontory of the Or^ of Caith- 
 ness. 
 

 
 
 6 
 
 -;.', 
 
 %^^^ 
 
 / 
 
 
 
 r 
 
 % 1 UBIXJ 
 
 or't'iiitliiit 
 
 
 Sw" 
 
 Vf^^ 
 
 ^ ^ 
 
 » 
 
 
 ^Iirv-£it. irxT^^H' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^-J j^~ 
 
 
 
 
 r^'s STREW '^ 
 
 
 
 ^^^ 
 
 
 
 • 
 
 , i^ ^r' .y 
 
 
 ///•//rjyj J///rti-. 
 
 ~ 
 
 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN 
 
 113 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Eastern Coast from the Firth of Tay to the 
 extreme point of Kinnatrd in Aberdeen- 
 shire y and Northern Coast from thence to 
 the entrance oftho Murray Yirth, form- 
 hig one side of the great North-East Bay 
 — The Ness of Inverness -shire, and its 
 Loch — The Beaulej of Ross- shire and 
 its Firth, communicating with the Mur- 
 ray Firth — The Northern Peninsula of 
 Scotland—^Thc Orron -Water, forming 
 the Beautiful Firth of Cromartie — The 
 Firth of Dornoch— The Fleet, The 
 Brora, and The Hehnsdale of Sri t her- 
 land — The Eastern Coast of Caithness 
 to Duncanshy Head, and John a Groats 
 House, forming the extreme Northern Pro- 
 montory — Northern Coast to the Bay of 
 Dunnett, and the River of Thurso with 
 its Town — Dreary aspect of the Coast to 
 the North-West, terminating in Cape 
 I 
 
114 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Wrath — Western Coast of Sutherland 
 RosS'Shire, and Inverness-shire, opposite 
 to the Hebrides, intersected by salt-wa- 
 ter Lochs, hut without any Rivers of note, 
 to the bottom of the Northern Peninsula. 
 
 The eastern coast, northward of the 
 Taj, has nothing very striking in its as- 
 pect, or deserving of minute description. 
 The ruined Abbey of Aberbrothic, and 
 the pleasant position of Montrose on its 
 swelling basin, are the only points in 
 Angus; Kincardine has alone the bold 
 fragments of Dunotter Castle near Stone- 
 haven, the antient Palace of the Lord 
 Marischals of Scotland, to boast of. Aber- 
 deenshire covers a vast extent of shore, 
 various in its appearance, and full of stri- 
 king objects. The flourishing port and 
 Univerfity of New Aberdeen on the broad 
 aestuary of the Dee first attracts our no- 
 tice, graced with some irregular traits of 
 grandeur, yet far inferior to Glasgow^ 
 both in extent, splendour, and commerce. 
 Its position is extremely pleasant, on a 
 
OF GREAT Britain. ii^ 
 
 gentle elevation above the river, and di- 
 vided from the sea by a pleasant meadow 
 called the Links. A cheerful corn country 
 separates this place from the decayed city 
 and University of Old Aberdeen, whose 
 stately college alone attracts the notice of 
 a stranger. The coast is dreary between 
 the mouth of the Do7i and that of the Ye- 
 than, and afterwards to that of the Ugie 
 becomes astonishingly bold and rocky, 
 opening into extraordinary caverns, of 
 which the Buller of Buchan is the most 
 wonderful. The position also of the Castles 
 of Slains, on high abrupt rocks frightfully 
 over-hanging the sea, is singularly ex- 
 posed, and the town of Peterhead exhi- 
 bits one of the neatest and pleasantest 
 ports in Scotland, being also resorted to 
 as a public place. Little variety takes 
 place till we reach the small port of 
 Fraserbergh, beneath the point of Kin- 
 naird's Head, crowned with a castle and 
 light house, and shooting out far into 
 the sea. This is the farthest point of 
 the coast towards the east, which here 
 l2 
 
Il6 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 turns abruptly to front the north, form- 
 ing thus the south-east point of the great 
 north-east bay of Scotland, opposite to 
 thecxtremity of Duncansby Head in Caith- 
 nefs, across a vast intervening gulph. In 
 this direction Banff-shire succeeds to 
 Aberdeen-shire, exhibiting a pleasant and 
 rather ornamented coast ; its handsome 
 capital, backed by the groves and superb 
 mansion of Duff, rising above the mouth 
 of the Deveron, Lord Finlater's well- 
 wooded territory stretching out from the 
 port of Cullen, on the Logie, and the nu- 
 merous plantations encircling the stately 
 palace of Castle Gordon, embellishing the 
 coast and the country to the mouth of 
 t?ie rapid Spey. The coast of Murray- 
 shire, which follows, is less adorned, but 
 Ltoch Spynnle, with its castle, present fine 
 objects at a small distance, and the ruins 
 of Elgin are interesting to the traveller. 
 The bay formed by the Findhorn, not far 
 from the delightful position of Fores and 
 the forest of Darnaway, makes a bold in- 
 denture into the country, and the tract 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIX. 11/ 
 
 between its mouth and Nairn-shire is dis- 
 tinguishable for thofe sandy hillocks, 
 which are frequently spread over the 
 whole level by the wind. The bay now 
 becomes more contracted, and the oppo- 
 site shore of Ross-shire terminates it at 
 the low point of Torbet Ness, beyond 
 which the more distant coast of Suther- 
 land and Caithness stretches far out to 
 the north-east. The Sutters of Cro- 
 martie form two bold pillars at the mouth 
 of its charming Firth opposite to Nairn, 
 and the northern direction of the coast 
 t;erminates soon afterwards in a sharp 
 point of Aberdeen-shire, at the exit of 
 the Murray Firth, on which elevation, 
 the numerous bastions and regular fronts 
 of Fort George, exhibit a perfect model 
 in the modern art of fortification. 
 
 The Ness rises in Loch-Okh in the 
 midst of the central mountains of Inver- 
 ness-shire, inclining invariably to the 
 north-east, with very few windings, as it 
 forms the great lake of Loch Ness, and 
 
 13 
 
Il8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 approaches Inverness, below which it falls 
 into the Murray Firth. 
 
 The early course of this fine river is 
 uncommonly wild, Loch Oich being sur- 
 rounded by mountains generally capped 
 with snow, and the heights of Ben-nevis 
 (the Atlas of North Britain) appearing 
 at a distance in the "west, while those of 
 Coryuragan and Coriaraich, (in which 
 the Spey is produced,) frown over it on 
 the south. Just at the entrance of Loch- 
 Ness, the whitened bastions of Fort Au- 
 gustus are situated, with a little street 
 which forms its hamlet, and contains the 
 principal part of the population of this 
 ill-inhabited district. This is one of the 
 fortresses built after the rebellion of 1 745, 
 and several of the military roads meet at 
 this point, one of which leads to Inver- 
 ness and Fort George, another to Fort 
 William and the western parts of Scot- 
 land, a third to the north-western coast 
 opposite to the Hebrides, and a fourth 
 over the heights of Coryuragan and Co- 
 riaraich, by a very arduous pass to the 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. l\g 
 
 south. Loch'Ness Is remarkable for its 
 uniform straitness, as well as for the bold 
 rocks and lofty mountains which encom- 
 pass it, cloathed wdth waving forests of 
 pines and birch. 
 
 The river Dimdreggan, forming various 
 lakes in its course from the north-west, 
 falls into Loch-Ness, after traversing the 
 little stripe of cultivation which distin- 
 guishes Glenmorrison, The Clonnte also, 
 descending from the north, forms a large 
 basin as it reaches the centre of hoch- 
 Ness, into which the picturesque ruin of 
 Urquahart Castle protrudes itself Directly- 
 opposite, the military road to Inverness 
 pursues the southern bank of this fine 
 lake, after surmounting the heights of 
 Knockcorrach from Fort Augustus, and 
 crossing the rapid stream of the Errick, 
 which precipitates itself here in two tre- 
 mendous cataracts, called the Falls of 
 Fyres. A little below this spot is the 
 building which General Wade inhabited 
 when he superintended the military roads, 
 and which (nov/ converted into one of 
 
 I 4 
 
120 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 the inns maintained by Government in 
 these desolate districts) still bears the 
 title of " The Generars Hut,'' Thick 
 and beautiful are the woods which, inter- 
 mixed with rocks, encompass and over- 
 hang this road as it follows the border of 
 Loch' Ness, near the end of which, a happy- 
 mixture of villages and cultivation en- 
 livens the scene. The Ness, then emer- 
 ging from its lake, and bearing the form 
 of a fine wide river, flows through a grand 
 and very picturesque valley, till it reaches 
 the large town of Inverness, the proper 
 capital of the Northern Highlands. This 
 is the only place of any considerable note 
 north of Aberdeen, Perth, and Stirling, 
 except Banff, being also the great mart 
 of all the inhabited parts of the surround- 
 ing wilds. It covers a fine eminence 
 above the river, which is here crossed by 
 a stately bridge ; the ruins of Macbeth*s 
 Castle frown over it from a lofty rock, 
 and the wooded hill of Tommin-Heurin, 
 assuming the singular shape of a ship with 
 the keel turned upwards, rises opposite. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 121 
 
 A little below Inverness, the Ness falls 
 into the Murray Firth, opposed to a 
 projecting point of Ross-shire, where a 
 Ferry is established. 
 
 The Beaulet finds its source in the 
 Lahs of Assartg and Maddy in the most 
 northern part of Inverness- shire, wind- 
 ing frequently, and flowing chiefly to the 
 south-east, till it constitutes the Firth of 
 Beauley, which, turning to the north-east, 
 contracts itself into a narrow strait oppo- 
 site to the mouth of the Ness, The junc- 
 tion of these waters forms the Murray 
 Firth, which expands itself considerably, 
 but at last appears almost land-locked, as 
 it turns by the north-west round the 
 points of Fortrose and Fort George, di- 
 viding Ross-shire from Inverness-shire. 
 
 The course of this river from its na- 
 tive mountains is singularly wild and 
 rugged, till it reaches the district of 
 Straithglass, where cultivation and popu- 
 lation begin to shew themselves. These 
 advantages encrease as it approaches its 
 little capital of Be^ulcy, and the Firth 
 
I2Z RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 which bears its name presents a fine oval 
 basin, encompassed by strongly- featured 
 banks, and backed with high mountains. 
 The Murray Firth, formed by the junc- 
 tion of the two rivers, is not less distin- 
 guished by grand objects, perpetually va- 
 rying as the traveller follows its curving 
 shores, and opening views into the inte- 
 rior recesses of the mountains of Inver- 
 ness-shire, Ross-shire, and Sutherland. 
 The strait which attends its exit to the 
 «ea, is very narrow and winding, where 
 the little town of Fortrose covers one 
 eminence, while the magnificent and re- 
 gular pile of Fort George occupies the 
 opposite side of the bay. 
 
 The Northern Peninsula of Scotland is 
 far less distinguished by rivers than any 
 other part of the kingdom, though it 
 contains a very large division of that part 
 of our island which appertains to North- 
 Britain, comprehending the whole of 
 •Ross-shire, Sutherland, and Caithness, 
 with a great part of Inverness-shire. Its 
 eastern coast is alone much frequented by 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 1^3 
 
 travellers, and the dIfEculties attending 
 even the prosecution of that journey are 
 not inconsiderable. Thofe of the northern, 
 and the descent southward by the west- 
 ern coast, are nearly insurmountable by 
 strangers, there being neither roads nor 
 accommodations to be pursued with any 
 certainty throughout that extensive di- 
 strict, which is ill inhabited, full of mo- 
 rasses, penetrated in various directions by 
 immense mountains, and very scanty in 
 cultivation or population, all improve- 
 ment being much retarded by such al- 
 most invincible barriers, with a tempes- 
 tuous climate, and a coast difficult of ac- 
 cess even in fair weather. A minute de- 
 scription here, therefore, is impracticable, 
 at least by one who has travelled chiefly 
 for health and pleasure, and who writes 
 principally to impress what he has seen 
 on his own mind, though perhaps not 
 without a prospect of submitting his ob- 
 servations to the opinions of others. Such 
 a one is under the necessity of pursuing 
 the best leading information he can ob- 
 
 I 
 
124 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 tain, where personal experience fails, and 
 to give a brief and general character of 
 -what has not fallen under his special ob- 
 servation. 
 
 The Orron Water is the first stream 
 that attracts our notice in ascending the 
 eastern side of the northern Peninsula, 
 It rises in the rnountains of Ross-shire, a 
 little north of the Beaiihy, and meeting 
 other streams flow^lng from Loch Gilloriy 
 ^nd Loch Lukhart, forms the beautiful 
 Firth of Croviartte in its course to the 
 north-east. Dingwall, the small capital 
 of Ross-shire, lies at the head of this fine 
 bay, which divides that county from the 
 lesser one of Cromartie covering its south- 
 ern bank. This charming expanse of wa- 
 ter is beautifully varied in form, being 
 also decorated with a well-cultivated and 
 populous outline, and backed by high 
 mountains. It narrows extremely at In- 
 vergordon Ferry, where the promontory 
 of Kirk-Michael projects into it on the 
 Cromartie shore, after which it swells 
 again into a very grand and spacious bay, 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. l!^^ 
 
 extending far to the north, and turning 
 to the south-east abruptly to make its 
 exit. All the navies of Europe might ride 
 in this delightful basin, which is well- 
 stored with good anchorage, and appears 
 land-locked, except where one channel 
 communicates with the upper lake, and 
 another opens with a grand curve to the 
 sea, beneath the town, and the two bold 
 rocks called the Sutters of Cromartie. 
 
 The Firth of Dornoch is formed 
 by a junction o{ the Shin from its lake in 
 the south-west part of Sutherland, and 
 the AUish with various other small streams 
 from Ross-shire. It is a large winding 
 aestuary, abounding in bays, and descend- 
 ing to the south-east, till it turns to the 
 north-east, where advancing points of 
 land have given place to Mickle Ferry. 
 Nearer the mouth, which widens to a 
 great expanse, the town of Tain appears 
 on its Ross-shire bank, opposed by Dor- 
 noch, the capital of Sutherland, spread 
 put on a mountainous coast, which is 
 
126 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 contrasted by the opposite flat head-land 
 of Tarbet Ness. 
 
 The Fleet, the Brora, and The 
 Helmsdale, arc the three remaining 
 rivers of Sutherland, all descending to 
 the south-east from a wild and moun- 
 tainous district, and neither of them re- 
 markable for its features. On the coast, 
 between the two former, is situated the 
 noble, but deserted, castle of Dunrobin, 
 the ancient seat of the Earls of Suther- 
 land ; beyond the latter, the precipices 
 of the rocky Ord of Caithness impend 
 horribly over a stormy ocean, above which 
 a road is carried far more exalted and tre- 
 mendous than that of Penmanmawr in 
 North Wales. This is the only great 
 pass of the country into Caithness, after 
 w^hich the road divides into two branches, 
 one pursuing the coast, and the other 
 penetrating through the heart of that 
 county northward to Thurso. The 
 eastern coast of Caithness, after the pass 
 of the Ord is surmounted, is far less 
 mountainous than that of Suthprland ; 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 1:57 
 
 one small river, called the Wick, descends 
 to it from the north-west, originating in 
 the lake of Watten, and forming a fine 
 bay beneath the port situated on its 
 northern shore, from which it derives its 
 name. Considerably further towards the 
 north, Duncansby Head projects into the 
 sea, marking the north-eastern extremity 
 of our ifland ; advancing towards which, 
 beyond the village of Houna, stands the 
 memorable Ferry-house of John a Groat, 
 the Ultima Thule of most English travel- 
 lers, and the last mansion in Great Bri- 
 tain. The coast here is wild, bold, and 
 rocky ; the Orkney islands appear spread 
 out in front across the boisterous Firth of 
 Pentland, and during some weeks of the 
 summer months daylight is never lost to 
 Its inhabitants, for which they suffer by 
 an equivalent prolongation of night in the 
 winter, though the prevalence and bright- 
 ness of the Aurora Borealis usually relieves 
 this evil. The broad bay of Dunnet suc- 
 ceeds, into which the river Thurso de- 
 scends from the south ; the port which 
 
1^8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 bears also its name is placed at the mouth 
 of this stream, and separately approached 
 by the road which diverges from the 
 shore a little above the Ord of Caithness. 
 Here end all tracks easily practicable 
 to any but the scanty inhabitants of this 
 i^ild coast, which, indenting the country 
 with deep bays through the remainder of 
 Caithness and Sutherland, terminates 
 towards the north-west in the dangerous 
 promontory of Cape Wrath. It descends 
 then southward, intersected with large 
 salt-water lochs, till the mountainous re- 
 gion of Assynt projects again towards the 
 west, near the extremity of Sutherland. 
 The western coast of Ross-shire is not less 
 w^ild and barbarous, being penetrated 
 with still deeper arms of the sea, as it 
 descends by the west to the south ; the 
 large island of Lewes appears from thence 
 at a considerable distance in the north- 
 west ; and Skye, the principal of the He- 
 brides or Western Islands, almost closes 
 in with it, as it approaches the borders of 
 Inverncss-shire. The western coast of 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. l^Jp 
 
 that great county abounds in similar fea- 
 tures, being little less wild, dreary, and 
 inaccessible ; it is also in like manner 
 penetrated with vast amis of the sea to 
 its junction with Argyle- shire. The 
 northern part of that district participates 
 in the same qualities, as it makes a sweep 
 to form the Sound of Mull, opposite to 
 the island of that name, and then de- 
 scends again southward to the straits of 
 Jura, and from thence to the extreme 
 point of the Mull of Cantire, opposite to 
 Ireland, which it doubles, to form a fine 
 bay round the islands of Arran and Bute, 
 beyond which, it reaches the confines of 
 Dumbarton-shire, and the mouth oi the 
 Clyde. 
 
 This immense tract of coast, which 
 forms the point of the Mull of Cantire to 
 Cape Wrath, extends northward near 
 four degrees, viz. from almost the 55th 
 to the 59th, is nearly alike savage, dreary, 
 and inaccessible. The interior of the 
 country corresponds with it in wildnesg, 
 few and uncertain being the roads which 
 K 
 
130 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 penetrate it, and miserable, as well as 
 scanty, its villages, while cultivation is 
 only pursued in a few favoured spots, and 
 that but imperfectly. Destitute of ac- 
 commodation for travellers, and full of 
 craggy mountains^ intersected with lakes 
 and deep morasses ; most part of this 
 dismal territory is unknown, except to 
 those who are interested in it either as 
 inhabitants or proprietors. The people, 
 however, are understood to be far more 
 civilized, than the climate and country 
 they live in, together with their poverty 
 and seclusion from the world, would 
 warrant ; ministers of the Scotch Kirk 
 being resident with decent appointments 
 in most of the villages, and medical as- 
 sistants of sufficient skill and character, 
 being dispersed over the whole peninsula. 
 The several salt water lochs, which pe- 
 netrate this district in every direction, 
 from the northern and the western coasts, 
 open an immense field for the herring 
 fishery, which in some parts is pursued 
 with great assiduity, and in most forms 
 
 7 
 
OF GUEAT BRITAIN. I3I 
 
 nearly the whole occupation of its inha- 
 bitants, providing also their only means 
 of sustenance. Mines are said to abound 
 in this great expanse, and some of thefe 
 are supposed to be of considerable value, 
 but they are seldom explored on account 
 of the scantiness of its population, and the 
 want of general animation ; the moun- 
 tains of Assynt are described as contain- 
 ing masses of marble, equal to the Parian 
 in whiteness and purity, and the hidden 
 iTiinerals are supposed to be frequent, as 
 well as valuable, in the forests of Dirry- 
 m6or, Durness, and Fainish, as well as in 
 the districts of Coygach, Groinard, Ga- 
 reloch, Applecross, and Kintail. Except 
 some trifling streams which fall into the 
 salt-water lochs, there appears to be a 
 total failure of rivers from the Thurso of 
 Caithness on the northern coast, to the 
 Speaft of Inverness- shire on the western ; 
 a vast outline, w^idely differing from the 
 rest of our island, both in this, and most 
 other circumstances. Even below this 
 
T32 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 point, there are no streams of consider- 
 able importance to the mouth of the 
 Clyde ; but as the northern peninsula ter- 
 minates here to the west, I shall there 
 resume the chain of the rivers of North 
 Britain. 
 
li 
 
 

 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 jr 'f *'f ^c 
 
 
 
 ^ liriiLfhiiUAF. 
 
 
 
 f 
 
 \ 
 \ 
 
 
 
 ^^"^K^: \ 
 
 
 
 
 iNvj':^^^^ y ^ 
 
 
 
 
 ^^^/^F/in^lJI raj 
 
 
 
 
 ^^^^F^^^rm^^^f^ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ^ ( { ^-vT^w'^' ~\l)JJMFlh^^^ /Vs') 
 
 _^g^ \ 'VlN^e-wSilallovrav- \ (T 1 V-, -. ; ^^ 
 
 PoA S J^ ^ \ *^"l ^ ^\J^ \V^ '<Aim«n Ltomjr 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mull ofOTowiv '^ •^ ^-^^^ 
 
 1 
 
 
OF QREAT BRITAIN. I33 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 The Spean of Inverness-shtre, terminating 
 in Loch Lochy, mid Loch Linnhe, at 
 the separation of that County from Argyle* 
 shire — The Awe, and The A ray of that 
 County, with the long neck of land called 
 the Mull ofCantire, stretching out towards 
 Ireland — Loch- Lomond, and The Le- 
 ven isstiing from it /oThe Firth of Clyde 
 — The Clyde and its hranches — The 
 Irvine, The Ayr, The Doon, The Gir- 
 van, and The Stincher of Ayrshire — 
 The extreme south-western point of the 
 Mull of Galloway, lelow Port Patrick, 
 and opposite to Ireland, and the Isle of 
 Man — The Luce and The Cree ofJf^ig- 
 town-shire — The Fleet, The Dee, and 
 The Orr of Kirkudbright— The Nith, 
 The Annan, The Sarke, a7td The gslce 
 of Dumfries-shire, contributing to form , 
 on the Scottish-side, the great estuary of 
 
 K3 
 
134 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 The Sol way Firth, dividing the Coasts 
 of England and Scotland, towards the 
 Western Sea, 
 
 The Spean originates in the Lakes of 
 Laggan and Trolg in the southern moun- 
 tains of Inverness-shire; its course is near- 
 ly westward till it is joined by a stream 
 issuing from Loch Lochy, when it takes 
 a south-west direction to Fort William, 
 forming a great aestuary below that place, 
 which by a narrow inlet communicates 
 with a vast arm of the western sea, called 
 Linnhe Loch, the mouth of which fronts 
 the Isle of Mull. 
 
 Rapid from the nature of its origin, 
 this river preserves its character, till It Is 
 confounded with the waters of the sea, 
 passing with great fury under the west- 
 ern base of the mighty mountain of Ben- 
 Nevis, and washing the ancient bastions 
 of Inverlochy Castle, as it approaches the 
 moderh fortress of Fort William, and the 
 town of Maryborough beneath It. Loch- 
 %,ochy communicates with this river, and 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 13^ 
 
 a narrow neck of land separates it from 
 Loch Otch, through which the Ness passes 
 in the opposite diredlion towards its 
 greater lake, Inverness, and the eastern 
 sea. A canal of a few miles, cut here, 
 would insulate the northern peninsula 
 of Scotland, and greatly facilitate (if not 
 altogether create) an intercourse between 
 the two seas. One of the military roads 
 (separating at Fort Augustus from that 
 which leads throusih Glenmorrison to 
 Glenelg, and forming the only great road 
 that approaches the western coast, south- 
 ward of Cape Wrath) leads by Loch- 
 Otch, and the wretched inn of Letter 
 Findlay on Loch Lochy to Fort William ; 
 one branch of it then passes over the 
 dreary heights of the Black Mountain, 
 by the arduous ascent of the Devil's Stair- 
 case ; while another (more modern, as 
 well as more frequented) traverses the 
 fine asstuary of the Spean from Fort Wil- 
 liam, crossing Loch Leven at the narrow 
 ferry of Baliulis, and joining the other 
 road not far from the King's House, an 
 
 K4 
 
135 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 inn erected by government for travellers, 
 and as bad as most of the similar places 
 of public reception in these desolate re- 
 gions. It passes then near the valley of 
 Glenco, remarkable for the massacre of 
 its inhabitants in 1691, as w^ell as for its 
 stupendously- magnificent scenery, and at 
 Tyndrum, near the source of the 'Tqy, 
 meets the other miUtary road from Tay- 
 mouth to Inverary. 
 
 The Awe rises from a lake of its 
 name, which is fed by the waters of the 
 Urchy from the Valley of Glenorchy, at 
 the head of which stands the ruin of Kil- 
 churn Castle ; it flows to the north-west 
 through Argyle-shire, till it falls into the 
 arm of the sea called Loch Etive, which 
 inclines to the south-west, beneath the 
 town of Bunawe. 
 
 South of Loch Linnhe, the country be- 
 comes more populous and indicative of 
 improvement, though the coast conti- 
 nues still bold and rocky ; forges and va- 
 rious works are here and there esta- 
 blished, and Bunawe is a place of some 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 137 
 
 trade. The little hamlet of Dal maly also, 
 in the valley of Glenorchy, exhibits a 
 pleasant stripe of vegetation in the midst 
 of a dreary desert, and appears in a man-^ 
 ner prophetic of a traveller's return to the 
 haunts of society and population. 
 
 The Aray is a very small stream ris- 
 ing in the mountains of Argyle-shire, 
 between Loch Awe and Loch Fine, de- 
 scending southward to the latter through 
 a small glen which it forms. This little 
 river would be hardly worthy of notice, 
 were it not for the grand and beautiful 
 appendage of woods, lawns, and planta- 
 tions, which encircle the Duke of Argyle's 
 proud territory of Inverary, to which the 
 rapid and w inding course of the Aray, 
 with its two superb bridges, adds no in- 
 considerable ornaments. The modern 
 pile of Inverary Castle stands on an ele- 
 vated lawn above its new-built town, 
 distinguished by a great variety of groves, 
 and surrounded by an amphitheatre of 
 hills cloathed with wood. In front, the 
 Aray precipitates itself into that beauti- 
 
138 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 ful arm of the sea called Loch Fine, whose 
 broad sheet of water is covered with ves- 
 sels, and bounded on each side by bare 
 and lofty mountains, which grandly con- 
 trast the wooded pride of Inverary. The 
 military road from Glasgow to Dumbar- 
 ton traverses the northern bank of this 
 loch, which employs a considerable her- 
 ring fishery, and extends far below Inver- 
 ary to the point of Skipness in Cantire, 
 below West Tarbet. The district of Knap- 
 dale, which covers the southern part of 
 this territory between the sea and Loch 
 Fine, is well inhabited, and great improve- 
 ments have been made in its cultivation 
 by some spirited proprietors. At West 
 Tarbet, an arm of the sea advances from 
 the north, within a short distance oi Loch 
 Fine, w^here a canal has been judiciously 
 projected, which would insulate the dis- 
 trict of Cantire, and prevent its difficult 
 and dangerous circumnavigation. This 
 considerable peninsula stretches out far to 
 the south-west, in front of the Isle of Ar- 
 ran, abounding in villages, and graced 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. I39 
 
 with the fine port of Campbell-Town, at 
 the bottom of a small bay. The Mull 
 of Cantire forms the extreme point of 
 this coast, from which the North of Ire- 
 land is distinctly visible. 
 
 Loch Lomond, the most beautiful 
 and extensive of all the lakes in Scotland, 
 is properly formed by several small streams 
 originating in the western corner of Perth- 
 shire, not far from the source of the Toy, 
 Its course is almost directly to the south 
 for g6 miles, and near its extremity, the 
 Entrkk, flowing westward from the heart 
 of Stirling-shire, discharges itself into it. 
 The Leven descends here also from Loch 
 Lomond, inclining to the south-east, and 
 after a course of about six miles, falls into 
 the Firth of Clyde near Dumbarton. 
 
 This lake contains a wonderful mix- 
 ture of the sublime and beautiful, vary- 
 ing its features perpetually, as the travel- 
 ler advances. Its northern part is narrow, 
 winding, and hemmed in by vast, bare, 
 impending mountains, which perpetually 
 divert its course. In the centre of one 
 
I40 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 of these masses, on the eastern side, the 
 mighty head of Ben- Lomond exalts it- 
 self in unrivalled majesty, and protrudes 
 Its enormous cliffs into the lake. Be- 
 neath this mountain, the waters expand 
 themselves into an immense basin, pro- 
 fusely studded with a great variety of 
 islands, many of which are cloathed with 
 wood, and some decorated with build- 
 ings. The scene changes entirely from 
 the savage aspect of the northern district ; 
 fertility occupies all the space between 
 the mountains and the lake, villages and 
 some large houses are scattered over the 
 whole profusely, and the military road 
 descending to the small town of Luss, 
 traverses a pleasant level to the bottom 
 of Loch Lomond, which there appears en- 
 compassed by a garden in the midst of 
 cultivation and riches, while the distant 
 mountains, with Ben-Lomond in their 
 front, now no longer objects of terror, 
 present a superb back ground towards the 
 north. The Leven descends for about six 
 miles from this lake in great beauty, by 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 141 
 
 the monument erefted to the memory of 
 the late Dr. Smollett, to Dumbarton on 
 the Firth of Clyde. 
 
 The Cltde and its Branches. — 
 This river finds its source in the great 
 hills which bound Lanerk-shire towards 
 the south, between El van foot and MofFatt, 
 on the high road from Carlisle to Glasgow. 
 Its course, with various windings, is ge- 
 nerally north-west to Hamilton and Glas- 
 gow, where it receives the tide, entering 
 soon afterwards its Firth, which pursues 
 the same diredion till it meets a consi- 
 derable arm of the sea called Loch Long, 
 united with which, it turns to the south, 
 and makes its exit between Ayrshire and 
 the Isle of Bute. The branches of the 
 Clyde are principally the Douglas Water 
 from the south-west, the Calder from the 
 south-east, the Avon from the south-west, 
 and the Cart flowing by Paisley from the 
 south, united with the Gr/^/' of Renfrew- 
 shire, neither of which are considerable 
 streams. The Leiden, which has been al- 
 
142 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 ready described, falls into it at Dumbar- 
 ton from Loch Lomond, 
 
 This is one of the finest rivers in Scot- 
 land, rapid in its origin, and precipitating 
 itself in three highly- picturcfque and tre- 
 mendous falls near Lancrk, the two first 
 of w^hich, called Cora Lyn and Honiton 
 Lyn, are beautifully cncompafled by the 
 grounds and plantations laid out by Sir 
 John Lockhart Rofs, of which they form 
 the principal ornaments. At Hamilton, 
 it paflTes through the princely, but too 
 level territory, surrounding the Duke of 
 Hamilton's palace ; after which it again 
 engulfs itself in a hollow between vast 
 rocks cloathed with brush-wood, as it 
 sweeps furiously round the eminence, on 
 which the ruins of Both well Castle form 
 the principal feature of the superb seat of 
 Lord Douglas. Emerging from these 
 barriers, the Clyde rolls proudly to Glas- 
 gow, which magnificent and flourishing 
 city, with its University, lies spread along 
 the northern bank of that river, and the 
 eminences which overlook it, presenting 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 143 
 
 a grand assemblage of objects to tho 
 wondering traveller as he approaches it. 
 
 Two magnificent stone bridges cross 
 the Clyde at this city ; another also has 
 been lately built at Hamilton, and near 
 Lanerk; one created by the taste and 
 spirit of four neighbouring great landed 
 proprietors, exhibits a beautiful structure. 
 Navigation now^ adds its consequence to 
 the Clyde, as, crowded with vessels and 
 gradually widening, it divides the coun- 
 ties of Dumbarton and Renfrew, trans- 
 porting all the riches of Glasgow to the 
 sea ; to which the manufactures of the 
 flourishing town of Paisley are added by 
 the Dart, and those of Stirling-shire by 
 the Grand Canal, which joins the Clyde at 
 Kilpatrick, and forms a communication 
 w^th the capital and the interior of Scot* 
 land, by means of the Forth, A vast 
 cestuary now opens, as the high double-- 
 headed rock, crowned with the Castle of 
 Dumbarton, forms an extraordinary island 
 in front of its tow^n, far below which 
 Greenock and Port Glafgow appear 
 
144 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 spread out on the opposite coast> thickly 
 stored with large vessels. Argyle-shire, 
 intersected with its vast arms of the sea, 
 now forms the north-western boundary of 
 the Clyde, one of which, catted Loch Lo7ig, 
 descends into that river from the central 
 part of the county, separated only by a 
 small neck of land from the middle part 
 of Loch Lomond. There the military 
 road divides into two branches, one of 
 which leads northward along the upper 
 parts of Loch Lomond to Crienlarich, 
 where it meets the great road from 
 Tyndrum to Killin and Taymouth ; the 
 other crossing to Loch Long passes round 
 its head, and traversing the dreary heights 
 of Glen-Crow and Glen-Kinlas, descends 
 to Loch Fine, and the paradise of Inve- 
 rary. 
 
 Loch Long is environed with lofty 
 mountains about Arracher, where the 
 Duke of Argyle has converted the seat 
 of the Laird of Mac-Farlane into an ex- 
 cellent inn, delightfully situated almost 
 on the margin of the water. It joins the 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. I45 
 
 Clyde just below the point where a smaller 
 arm of the sea, called Loch Gare, descends 
 through a narrow inlet, and where a ferry 
 is established between the village of Row 
 and Rosineath, a seat of the Duke of 
 Argyle. 
 
 The Kyle, a narrow strait, from which 
 two fmall arms of the sea penetrate intg 
 Argyle-shire, separates that county from 
 the Isle of Bute, and communicates with 
 the Clyde, near its mouth. An immense 
 bay then is formed, between the Mull of 
 Cantire at the extremity of the Argyle- 
 shire coast, and the opposite promontory 
 of Kirkholm Point in Galloway, starting 
 forth from Loch Ryan, and being the Perigo- 
 nus sinus of the Romans. The whole coast 
 of Ayr-shire forms the eastern side of this 
 great gulph, the centre of which is occu- 
 pied by the rocky and mountainous Isle 
 of Arran, whose heights appear proudly 
 exalted over the intervening level. Above 
 this bold obje6l, the smaller island of Bute, 
 comparatively flat in its appearance, ex- 
 tends itself almost to tre entrance of the 
 L 
 
146 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Clyde, exhibiting the fine seat of Mount 
 Stuart, belonging to its Marquis. 
 
 The Irvine, The Ayr,TheDoon, 
 The Girvan, aiid The Stincher, are 
 the rivers which discharge themselves on 
 the long-extended coast of Ayr-shire, but 
 neither of them have any remarkable 
 features. The Irvine and the Ayr (w^hich 
 latter river is joined by the Lugar) are 
 in the northern part of that county, each 
 communicating with the bay above de- 
 scribed. Both these streams take their 
 names from towns near their mouths, of 
 which Ayr is a considerable port, being 
 also the capital of its large county ; their 
 course is very winding, but principally 
 directed to the north-west. 
 
 The Doon finds its origin in a lake on 
 the border of Dumfries-shire, flowing 
 northward, a little inclined to the west, 
 till it falls into the sea below the Ayr, 
 
 The Girvan is a small stream from the 
 north-east, reaching the sea at the town 
 which bears its name, nearly at the south- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. I47 
 
 ern extremity of Ayr-shire, Its course 
 being mostly westward. 
 
 The Stmcher, joined by the Dusk, Is 
 another inconsiderable stream descendins: 
 In nearly the same direction, with the 
 small port of Ballantree at its mouth, and 
 the short course of the little river Glemap 
 terminates Ayr-shire, falling into Lock 
 Ryan at its extremity. The coast of Ayr- 
 shire, descending from the Firth of Clyde 
 to this fine bay of Loch Rya?t, which 
 deeply indents Wigtown-shire, is not dis- 
 tinguished by any peculiar features, ex- 
 cept the lofty rock of Ailsa, rising to the 
 great height of 940 feet, and forming an 
 island nearly opposite the mouth of the 
 Girvan, at about one third of the distance 
 across the great south - western bay, 
 towards the pointof the Mull ofCantire. 
 The point of Kirk holm in Wigtown- 
 shire protrudes itself below Loch Ryan, 
 and the coast of Scotland then makes a 
 great curve from the west to the east, by 
 the south, In which it forms the oblong 
 peninsula called the Mull of Gallowa)', 
 
148 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 opposite to the coast of Ireland, where 
 Port Patrick presents a short and safe pas- 
 sage to Donagghaddee in our sister king- 
 dom. A Httle stream called the PI It at on 
 Burn, nearly traverses the whole of this 
 extraordinary peninsula in its zig-zag 
 course, flowing eastward somewhat below 
 Stranrawr, which may be called its capi- 
 tal, above which are several small lochs, 
 near the fine territory of Castle Kennedy, 
 the seat of the Earl of Stair. 
 
 The Luce and The Cree are the 
 two remaining rivers of Wigtown-shire, 
 flowing towards the south-east, and form- 
 ing large bays in the southern coast of 
 Scotland, opposite to the Isle of Man, and 
 the north coast of Cumberland in Eng- 
 land. 
 
 The Luce, rising on the borders of Ayr- 
 shire, is crossed by the great Irish road at 
 the town of Glenluce, and almost insu- 
 lating the Mull of Galloway above Stran- 
 rawr, forms the bay which bears its name 
 between that prominent point, and the 
 opposite promontory of Barrow- head. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. T49 
 
 which fronts the northern part of the Isle 
 of Man, across the Irish Sea. 
 
 The Cree divides Wigton- shire from 
 Ayr-shire and Kirkudbright-shire ; mak- 
 ing a circle by the west towards the 
 south till it reaches the latter county ; 
 it then inclines, with some windings, to 
 the south-east, and, with a considerable 
 aestuary, reaches the sea a little before it 
 comes to Wigton, forming the large bay 
 w^hich bears that name, bounded by Bur- 
 row-head on one side, and the Ross 
 Island at the mouth of the Dee in Kirkud- 
 bright on the other. This river is rapid, 
 and Its course is through a mountainous 
 country ; the towns of Newton Stuart 
 and Cree are on its banks, and the lesser 
 bay of Fleet in Kirkudbright, formed by 
 the Fleet-water from Gate-house, falls into 
 the greater bay of Wigton, near its 
 mouth. 
 
 The Dee and The Ore are the 
 rivers of Kirkudbright. The Dee is formed 
 by the Deugh from the northern parts of 
 that county, and the Ken from the north- 
 
 L3 
 
I^O RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 west of Dumfries-shire, both ot which 
 uniting, bear the name of the Ken till 
 they reach the town of New Galloway. 
 The river then assuming the name of the 
 Dee, it pursues a south-east course, form- 
 ing the Loch of Kenmoor in its passage, 
 after which it makes a compass from the 
 east to the west, by the south, forming 
 a considerable asstuary before it reaches 
 the town of Kirkudbright, and opening 
 into the sea, in front of the small island 
 called the Ross of Balnagar, close to the 
 point of the bay of Wigton, opposite to 
 that of Burrow-head. This river has 
 some fine features, and the surrounding 
 country is wild, though inhabited. The 
 towns of New Galloway and Kirkud- 
 bright make a handsome appearance on 
 its banks ; its lake also, with its aestuary, 
 are fine expanses of water. 
 
 The Orr is a small stream, without any 
 peculiar character, descending to the 
 south somewhat eastward of the Dee, and 
 forming a small bay at last. The coast 
 of Kirkudbright is nearly circular, be- 
 
 7 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 151 
 
 tween the great channel of the Cree, 
 which divides it from Wigton-shire, and 
 that o( the Nith on the border of Dum- 
 fries-shire. 
 
 The Nith is the most considerable 
 river on the south-western side of Scot- 
 land below the Clyde, rising from some 
 small lakes near Cumnock in Ayrshire, 
 not far from the source of the Luggar, 
 one of the branches of the Ayr. It then 
 traverses great part of Dumfries-shire, 
 which county it at laft divides from Kir- 
 kudbright, inclining chiefly to the south- 
 east, but turning at last to the south. 
 
 This is a very rapid and picturesque 
 stream, forcing its way between deep 
 banks thickly fringed with wood, thro' 
 a charming vale bounded by lofty hills. 
 The grand, but deserted palace of Drum- 
 lanrig, now stripped of its plantations, 
 makes a naked figure on its banks, yet is 
 still to be admired as the finest specimen 
 extant of an old Scottish castle. Dum- 
 fries is a large and opulent town, below 
 which, the river, becoming navigable, 
 L4 
 
J^Z RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 widens considerably as it approaches the 
 SoJway Firth, 
 
 The Annan rises above Qucensberry 
 Hill, westward of Moffat, a town famous 
 for its medicinal springs, and pursues a 
 south-eastern course, through a wild dis- 
 trict, to the town of Annan, where it is 
 crossed by a handsome bridge just before 
 it falls into the Firth of Solway, over 
 which the great road to Port Patrick 
 passes from Carlisle, that leading to Glas- 
 gow following its banks for a long way 
 from Lockerby. It is a clear and rapid 
 stream. 
 
 The Eske of Dumfries-shire is the 
 last river in the circle of Scotland, as it 
 approaches the English boundary on the 
 south. It rises in Eskedale moor in the 
 midst of wild mountains, flowing to the 
 south-east, and meeting the Ewes from 
 the north at Langholm ; it is afterwards 
 joined by the L'tddel of Roxburghshire 
 from the north-east, after which it passes 
 through a corner of Cumberland, turning 
 to the south-west, till joined by theLyne, 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. J^J 
 
 it contributes with the Eden to form the 
 Solway Firth, 
 
 This is a romantic and beautiful river, 
 traversing a deep and w^ooded vale from 
 the Duke of Buccleugh's Castle of Lang- 
 holm, and beneath Sir James Graham's 
 fine plantations of Netherby, near Long 
 Town. The Solway Moss extends from 
 the Eske to the Sarke near Gretna, which 
 small river is the proper boundary here 
 between England and Scotland. 
 
154 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Rivers of England cominuntcatlng with tJie 
 Western Sea — The Eden of Cumberland, 
 forming the great Sol way Firth on the 
 side of England — The Waver, termina- 
 ting In the Loch of Kilbride^ — The Cal- 
 dew and the Ellen — The Derwent — 
 The Ehen— The Esk— The Dudden, 
 The Crake and The Leven of Lan- 
 cashire — The Kent of Westinorland — 
 The Lune,The Wyre ^^^^The Ribble 
 of Lancashire — Junction o/'the I r well and 
 Mersey with their branches, and their 
 course to the great trading towns of 
 Manchester i Warrington, and Liverpool 
 — The Wever o/'Cheshire — The Dee 
 from North Wales to Chester, and Its 
 great Mstuary — Coast of Cumberland , 
 Lancashire, and Cheshire, from the mouth 
 of the Eden, to those of the Mersey and 
 the Dee. 
 
 The Eden is the first English river 
 on the south-wxst border of Scotland, 
 
Whiteliffi 
 
 •l»y- Stephen 
 
 Brifio^ Mil£s. 
 
OF GREA.T BRITAIN. 155 
 
 being like the Tweed at last a boundary 
 between the two kingdoms. It finds its 
 source in the moors of Westmorland, a 
 little to the south-west of Kirby Stephen ; 
 its course is for a short way to the north- 
 east, after which it inclines to the north- 
 west, below Brough, w^ith many wind- 
 ings, till it reaches Cosby on the road 
 between Carlisle and Newcastle ; it then 
 turns to the south-west to pass Carlisle, 
 and immediately afterwards resumes its 
 old course to the north-west, till meet- 
 ing the Esle at its mouth, both rivers in 
 conjunction form the great Firth ofSolway, 
 which feparates the south-western parts 
 of Scotland from the Cumberland coast in 
 England for a great distance. Except 
 while it continues within its native moors, 
 the Eden is by no means a rapid river ; it 
 traverses a pleasant country between Ap- 
 pleby, and its junction with the Eamont, 
 which flows from the Lake of Ullswatery 
 somewhat on the south-east of Penrith ; 
 its banks are highly romantic, and beau- 
 tifully fringed with wood, near the orna- 
 
156 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 merited territory of Corby Castle ; soon 
 after which the Irt hh ig pin^ it from the 
 north-east, as well as the Calder and the 
 Petterell from the south and south-west. 
 At Carlisle, the Eden makes a handsome 
 appearance, flowing under a fine bridge 
 with a long cause- way, and beneath the 
 walls of its castle, from whence it is na- 
 vigable to its mouth. A large tract of 
 marshy ground encompasses it on every 
 sidcy as it becomes a sea, and prevents the 
 Solway Firth from equalling some of the 
 lesser aestuaries in beauty. 
 
 The Wampool, or Waver — The 
 Caldew — The Ellen — The Der- 
 WENT — ^The Ehen — The Irt, and 
 The Esk, and The Dudden, are the 
 remaining rivers of Cumberland ; but, 
 except the Derwent, there is little im- 
 portance in their several characters. 
 
 The Wampool, or Weaver, rises among 
 some moors in the upper part of Cumber- 
 land, and its course is chiefly to the south- 
 west passing near Clea-Hall, the seat of 
 Sir Henry f'lctchcr, not far from the neat 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 157 
 
 town of Wigton, and forming the bay of 
 Kilbride at its extremity. 
 
 The Caldew originates somewhat lower 
 in the same central line of moors, and 
 pursues a northward direction to Carlisle, 
 washing its walls towards the west, as it 
 advances to meet the 'Eden, 
 
 The Ellen flows westward from a simi- 
 lar source, and meets the sea at Mary- 
 port. 
 
 The Derwent is a more considerable 
 river, being generated in the wild district 
 of Borrodale, from whence it emerges 
 towards the north, to form the roman- 
 tic and justly-admired lake of Keswick, 
 encircled by rocks, mountains, and ca- 
 taracts, and beautifully distinguished with 
 small wooded islands. The Great a brings 
 an accession of waters to it, from ThirU 
 mere and the foot of Helvellyn, forming 
 St. John's Vale in its passage to join the 
 T>erwent near Keswick, which, inclining 
 more and more westward from the north, 
 enlarges itself beneath the grassy base of 
 Skiddaw, into the broad and strait ex- 
 
158 RIVHiRS AND COAST 
 
 panse of Bassenthwaite water, emerging 
 through the arches of Ouse-bridge. It 
 then encircles a mountain to reach Coc- 
 kermouth, where the Cocker ]o\ns it from 
 the lakes of Cromack and Lowes-water in 
 the south, and afterwards proceeds west- 
 ward through a pleasant valley to the sea 
 at Workington. The Denvent is through- 
 out a rapid stream, and the scenery which 
 attends its course is wonderfully striking 
 and romantic. 
 
 The Ehen, rising in the same mass of 
 mountains, swells into the wild lake of 
 Enerdale, making a circle by the north 
 to the west, and descending at last south- 
 ward by Egremont to the sea. It has no 
 particular features. 
 
 The Irt and the Esk are two small 
 rivers issuing from the mountains, and 
 forming two curving asstuaries, which 
 almost insulate the little port of Raven- 
 glass, but are fordable at low water. Lord 
 Muncaster*s splendid house and planted 
 territory covers the back of the hill be- 
 tween these two channels, and exhibits a 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. I^g 
 
 paradise strangely placed in the midst of 
 a wild desert. 
 
 The Dudden is the last of the rivers of 
 Cumberland, rising near the borders of 
 Westmorland and Lancashire, in the 
 midst of that central pile of mountains 
 which separates the lakes of Whiander- 
 Mere and Derwent, among which the 
 pikes of Lang- dale are most conspicuous. 
 The course of the Dudden is nearly south, 
 through a wild, but inhabited district, 
 till it forms a broad tract of sands between 
 the coast of Cumberland and Lancashire, 
 a little below Broughton, which is a 
 neater town than such a district might 
 be supposed to boast. 
 
 The Crake is a small stream, highly 
 rapid, and descending southward from 
 the beautiful lake of Conniston, in the 
 higher and detached parts of Lancashire, 
 and forming at last, in conjunction with 
 the Leven, a considerable arm of the sea, 
 which terminates in the great bay of 
 Morecambe. Nothing can be more stu- 
 pendously sublime than the pile of 
 
l6o RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 mountains at the head of Conniston Lake, 
 or more wildly picturesque than the whole 
 course of this little river* 
 
 The Leven is another Lancashire 
 river, though its proper rise may be de- 
 scribed as in Westmorland, near the 
 border of Cumberland. In this region 
 of lakes, it forms the two of Grassmere 
 and Rydal Water, and meeting tJie Braithy 
 from Elterwater, expands itself into the 
 beautifulsheetofWinander-Mere,adorned 
 vrith every profusion of art and nature, 
 and presenting by far the finest lake in 
 England. Its aestuary, and that of the 
 Dudden, divide the singular district of 
 Farness from the rest of Lancashire and 
 Cumberland, famous for its ruined abbey, 
 its mines, and its neat capital of Ulver- 
 ston. 
 
 The Kent, though a river of some 
 beauty, is not very important in its 
 size, rising in the moors on the north 
 of Kendale in Westmorland, and washing 
 the walls of that large town for a consi- 
 derable extent ; its direction is chiefly 
 
dF GREAT britai:n^ l6l 
 
 southward, till it falls into the great bay 
 of Morecambe, dividing the peculiar dis- 
 trict of Cartmel from the rest of Lan- 
 cashire, in the same manner as the Lezjen 
 separates it from Furness, and the Dudden 
 again Furness from Cumberland. The 
 sands formed by these three great a2stu- 
 aries are all fordable at low water, and 
 gxiides are appointed with fixed stipends 
 to escort travellers, by which means there 
 is a short passage and considerable inter- 
 course between Lancaster and the oppo- 
 site points of Cartmel and Ulverston in 
 this great bay, as well as to the coast of 
 Cumberland. 
 
 The upper parts of the Kent are rather 
 wild and bare, but about the opulent 
 town of Kendale the country is cultiva- 
 ted and finely marked; the river increases 
 much afterwards in width, preserving its 
 original rapidity, and precipitating itself 
 in several romantic falls beneath the fine 
 groves and steep banks of Leven's Park, 
 belonging to the Earl of Suffolk, imme- 
 diately below which, the extension of 
 M 
 
\b2 UlVEllS AXD COAST 
 
 sands, as the shores recede, indicates the 
 approach to the sea. 
 
 Th e Lune of Lancashire. This beau- 
 tiful river rises not far westward of the 
 Edens source in the moors of Westmor- 
 land near Kirkby Stephen. Its course is 
 nearly westward to Tebay, and then di- 
 rectly south by Sedbergh to Kirby Lon- 
 sdale, after which it inclines a little east- 
 ward as it forms the charming district 
 of Lonsdale, through which it passes, 
 environed by every charm of picSurcfque 
 landscape, below Hornby to Lancaster, in 
 sight of which, making some great curves, 
 it falls into the sea. 
 
 Few streams can equal the Lrine in 
 beauty, from Sedbergh, where it enters 
 a cultivated and inhabited district, to its 
 conflux with the sea ; nor can many of 
 the vales in England vie with Lonsdale. 
 Gray's celebrated view is taken from an 
 eminence above this river near the third 
 mile stone from Lancaster, from whence 
 almost the whole of this delightful district 
 is visible, abounding in villages, with the 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 163 
 
 town and castle of Hornby in the centre ; 
 finely intersected by the Lune winding 
 between hills cloathed with wood, and 
 backed by the high mountain of Ingle- 
 borough in Yorkshire. The approach to 
 Lancaster is indescribably striking, where 
 the river becoming wider, and winding 
 in several bold sweeps, opens to the view 
 of that singular town, descending from a 
 high hill, whose summit is proudly 
 crowned by the bastions of its noble 
 castle, and the lofty tower of its church. 
 It then advances towards a magnificent 
 modern stone bridge, resting on eight 
 parallel elliptic arches, and making a 
 curve beneath the cliff, from which the 
 town hangs descending, forms below the 
 semilunar port of Lancaster, finely built 
 and crowded with vessels, after which it 
 disports itself in similar portions of 
 circles before it reaches the Irish sea. 
 
 The Wyre is composed of several 
 small streams in the moors which divide 
 Lancashire from Yorkshire, and flows 
 southward to Garstang, from whence it 
 
164 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 makes a compass to the west, afterwards 
 forming its aestuary near Poulton to the 
 east. 
 
 No points of peculiar beauty attend the- 
 course of this river, which at first tra- 
 verses a rude district, and afterwards an 
 extensive level, which partakes of the 
 nature of a fen. This part of the Lan- 
 cashire coast is very little pervaded by 
 travellers, though well inhabited, yet the 
 sea-bathing place of Black Pool attracts 
 company during the summer months. 
 
 The Ribble is one of the largest rivers 
 in the north of England, rising in the 
 high moors of Craven in Yorkshire, con- 
 siderably to the north of Settle. Its 
 course is southward till long after it has 
 passed that town, but a little inclined to 
 the east ; it then turns to the south-west 
 by Clithero, receiving the West Calder in 
 its way from Colne, Burnley, and Whal- 
 ley, before it reaches Ribchester, from 
 whence it flows through Ribblesdale, in 
 a direction more and more westward, a 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 165 
 
 little on the east and south of Preston, till 
 it falls into the Irish Sea. 
 
 The origin of the Rihhle is at the upper 
 end of that singular division of Yorkshire 
 called Craven, which has been already 
 noticed in dcfcribing the River Aire, The 
 sources of these two streams, and theUre^ 
 form three points of an extended triangle, 
 and enclose one of the most wild and 
 hilly districts in England, Whernsidey 
 Penyga?it, and Pendle, being inferior to 
 few of our mountains, and the rocky 
 Scar of Gtggleswick with its flowing well, 
 presenting bold objed:s in the romantic 
 line. The whole course of the Rihhle, 
 after leaving these moors, is through a 
 highly commercial and well-cultivated 
 country, and the many towns on its 
 banks enjoy a most flourishing trade. 
 That part of Ribblesdale, where it en- 
 compasses the handsome town of Preston, 
 is wonderfully grand, this river there 
 being crossed by two stately bridges, soon 
 ^fter which, its aestuary forms a nobl^ 
 
 M3 
 
l66 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 arm of the sea, pervading a great level, 
 after it issues from its dale. 
 
 The Irwell and The Mersey are 
 the last rivers to be described in Lan- 
 cashire, winding through the southern 
 parts of that county, and dividing it 
 mostly from Cheshire. 
 
 The Irwell rises in the moors which 
 divide Yorkshire from Lancashire, and 
 passes through the district of the manu- 
 facturing towns in the latter county, 
 flowing westward through Rosendal forest, 
 somewhat below Haslingden, and then 
 descending in a southward direction to 
 Bury. Meeting the Roch a little lower, it 
 makes a great curve to the west, but turns 
 suddenly to the south-east on being joined 
 by a small stream from Bolton, till it 
 reaches Manchester, where it is incor- 
 porated with the Irk and tlie Medlock, 
 From thence its course is nearly west- 
 ward till its junction with the Mersey, 
 which flows in considerable curves towards 
 the south-west, from the northern boun- 
 daries of Cheshire and Lancashire, com- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 167 
 
 posed of the Tame and several small 
 streams, and passing by Stockport. The 
 union of these rivers takes place near the 
 village of Glazebrook, and they are soon 
 afterw^ards encreascd still more by the 
 Boll'm from Macclesfield, bearing now the 
 single name of the Mersey, The course of 
 this river is still w^estv^ard by Warring- 
 ton, somevs^hat below^ which town it; 
 forms that great arm of the sea, which 
 turning abruptly to the north-west, 
 growls a little narrower as it passes the 
 port of Liverpool near its exit. 
 
 There is little of the mountainous 
 character attending these rivers, except 
 just about their source, as they very soon 
 reach a country abundant in population 
 and manufactures, though not distin- 
 guished for beauty. Manchester alone, 
 from which the Irwell is navigable, sup- 
 plies it with incessant commerce ; and 
 near that busy place it meets the Duke 
 of Bridgewaters Canal, which issuing 
 from its tunnel at Worsley, soon after 
 crosses the river on Barton bridge. After 
 M4 
 
l68 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 the junction of the rivers, the title oi the 
 Mersey alone prevails, when Warrington 
 supplies it v^ith fresh burdens of trade 
 by canals from the north, and the Wever 
 brings its tribute from the southern and 
 eastern parts of Cheshire, communicating 
 "with the numerous navigations of Staf- 
 fordshire. The great basin of the Mersey 
 then expands itself, crow^ded with sails 
 from various quarters, pursuing their des- 
 tination to the splendid port of Liverpool 
 and the Irish Sea. 
 
 The Wever is the last of the streams 
 which contribute to form the great ses- 
 tuary pf the Mersey, It rises in the central 
 part of Cheshire, flowing northward to 
 Namptwich and Northwich, where it is 
 joined by the Dane from the northern con- 
 fines of Staffordshire, and tlie Wednock 
 from Middlewich. Its course afterwards 
 inclines to the north-west, and a little 
 below its port of Frodsham, it falls into 
 the swelling basin of the Mersey, 
 
 This river is not distinguished by any 
 memorable points, its course being chiefly 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 1 69 
 
 through a sandy level, in which the three 
 Wych towns are remarkable for their 
 extensive salt works. Hawkcstone, the 
 delightful and highly-ornamented seat of 
 Sir Richard Hill in Shropshire, is not far 
 distant from its source. 
 
 The Dee takes its origin in the moun- 
 tainous district of Merioneth-shire in 
 North Wales, being composed of two 
 rapid streams, descending from the heights 
 which separate Dolgelly andDinasmouthy 
 from Bala, and uniting to form the Lake 
 of Pimhk'Meer, which is the largest in 
 Wales. Issuing from thence, the Dee 
 flow^s eastward beneath the town, and 
 through the bridge of Bala, paffing along 
 the valleys of Glenderdwy and Llan- 
 gollen, with various curves, till it emerges 
 into the great plain of Cheshire, beneath 
 the Park of Wynne-stay, soon after which 
 it turns northward, forming a deep valley 
 for itself through that plain, and then 
 half encompassing the walls of Chester, 
 ][)eeomes a great sestuary inclining to the 
 
170 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 north-west, and opening a principal chan- 
 nel for the trade of Ireland. 
 
 This is a most beautiful and romantic 
 river, nor is there a tract more singularly 
 striking than that of Glcnder-Dv^y once 
 the territory of Owen Glcndwr, and the 
 valley of Llangollen. The lake of Bala 
 wants wood to distinguish it, but the 
 position of its neat town is pleasant, and 
 the furious torrent of the Troweryn, de- 
 scending to it from the west through the 
 pleasant grounds of Rhiolas, presents a 
 picturesque object. The Dee is singular, 
 in encreasing in rapidity as it recedes from 
 its source, fed by incessant streams from 
 the surrounding mountains, one of which 
 called the Ceh'o, near Corwen, precipi- 
 tates itself down the cunousfalls of Glyn- 
 dyjfys. It thus forms the extraordinary 
 valley of Llangollen, cleaving its way be- 
 tween mountains of the higher order, one 
 of which is crowned with the fragment3 
 of Dinas Bran Castle, and foaming over 
 its rocky bed. From the north, a gentle 
 stream descends to it from the ivied walls 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 171 
 
 of Llanegwest Abbey, the ornament of 
 the sweetly-secluded Vale Crucis, and 
 soon afterwards the bridge of Llangollen 
 appears curiously founded on the broken 
 rocks which strew the bed of the river, 
 above which, the little town hangs sus- 
 pended on a shelf of its mountain, be- 
 neath the elegant retirement of its cele- 
 brated cottage. The passage of the Dee 
 into its great plain, as the mountains re- 
 cede, is extremely grand, where theCerriog 
 dashes into it from the territory of Chirk 
 Castle, bounding Shropshire, and it forms 
 at length the romantic scene of Nant- 
 y-bell, beneath the park of Wynne-stay, 
 after which it abates in its rapidity, and 
 becomes a deep and tranquil river before 
 it reaches Chester. It is there discoloured 
 by the tide, and cannot boast much 
 beauty in its curves through a broad 
 marsh, till it swells into its grand basin, 
 marked by the opposite towns of Fhnt 
 and Park-Gate, and filled with vessels. 
 The Alan, flowing northward from Llan- 
 degle, encompassing the little town of 
 
175 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Mold, and descending to the south-east, 
 meets the Dee in the plain near the small 
 towns of Farndon and Holt, after passing 
 by the neat village of Gressford and its 
 ornamented church. A rapid torrent also 
 issuing from the v^ell and chapel of St. 
 Wynncfred beneath the flourishing town 
 of Holywell, turns a vast number of mills 
 in its short course to iJie Dees aestuary, 
 near the ruins of Basingwork Abbey in 
 Flintshire. 
 
 The coast of Cumberland and Lan- 
 cashire forms almost a semicircle from 
 the mouth of the Ede?i to the Isle of 
 Walney, w:hich extends itself before the 
 headland of Furness. Towards the Sol- 
 way Firth it is marshy, indenting the 
 country afterwards with the bay of Kil- 
 bride. Workington, near the mouth of 
 the Derwent, is famous for the inauspi- 
 cious landing of Mary Queen of Scots, 
 and Whitehaven, remarkable for its ex- 
 tensive collieries ; Caldcr Abbey also, be- 
 low Egremont, exhibits a picturesque 
 ruin in some ornamented grounds of ^^ 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 173 
 
 gentleman's seat. At a few miles distance 
 from the coast, the lofty range of moun- 
 tains which encompass the lakes of Cum- 
 berland and Westmorland, exalt them- 
 selves in formidable array, and across the 
 level of the Irish sea the towering heights 
 of the Isle of Man are displayed in full 
 view. The bay of Morecambe forms a 
 deep gulph in front of Lancaster, fed by 
 the Dudden, the Ke7it, and the Lune, to 
 which the marshy tract surrounding Poul- 
 tonsucceeds, indented by the great estuary 
 of the Rihhle, descending from below 
 Preston. The Lancashire coast then 
 makes another swell to the mouth of 
 the Mersey, and Cheshire afterwards ex- 
 tends in a broad neck of land again far 
 into the Irish sea, between that fine river, 
 and the still greater channel of the Dee, 
 each of which transports the abundant 
 commerce of the sister kingdoms to each 
 other. 
 
1/4 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Rivers of Wales heyond the Dee — ^Thc 
 CIvvydd and The Elwy — The Ogwen 
 — The Seiont of Caernarvon — Coast of 
 'North Wales y from the mouth o/'the Dec 
 to the Menai Straits, opposite to Angle- 
 sea, and the extreme horn of Caernarvon- 
 shire at Porthorion head, opposite to Bard- 
 sea Island — Great Bay of Cardigan to 
 St. David's Point, at the extremity of 
 Pembrokeshire y and its rivers belonging 
 to North qnd South Wales, viz. The 
 Gwynnedd, The Drwydd, The Maw- 
 doch and Avon, The Dovey or Dyffi, 
 The Rhydol, The Ystwith, The Eiron, 
 and The Tivy. 
 
 The Clwydd and The Elwy are 
 
 two small rivers ; the Clwydd rising be- 
 neath the northern termination of the 
 Berouin mountains which encircle the 
 
Holy Hi 
 JlOT.YfTF.4T> . 
 
 I. of 
 
 ^' 
 
 i&oon 
 
 
 Forth-dmUeyn^ ^^^ ^ 
 
 . Aa, tX^ iU _»-^ J-» A v» -uu ^ 
 
 KBiO:NE.TH 
 
 % 
 
 c 
 
 BaiTnoicdt 
 
 ^lARLECU 
 S HjXIt E 
 
 eellaa 
 
 
 jLbexystwDi 
 
 ^^ I '■■■ ■■" 
 
 
 ^^^^^ho:. 
 
 
 ^anupt. 
 
 
 
 
 JO 20 
 
 30 
 
 1 
 
 
 British JIiU:s: 
 
 

OF GREAT BRITAIN. 17^ 
 
 Dee at Llangollen, and the Elwy joining 
 it near its mouth from the west. The 
 course of the Clwydd is altogether north- 
 ward, through a vale about twenty miles 
 in extent, and after its junction with tJie 
 Elwy below St. Asaph, it enters the 
 marsh of Rhydlan, falling into the sea 
 beneath its castle. 
 
 The beauties of the Vale of Clwydd 
 have been long deservedly extolled, and 
 all travellers through that charming dis- 
 trict must be struck with its happy mix- 
 ture of cultivation and population, sur- 
 rounded by a tract of mountains. The 
 pleasant town of Ruthyn occupies a gentle 
 eminence not far from its southern extre- 
 mity, the antient town of Denbigh with its 
 fine castle descending from a high hill near 
 its centre, and the little city of St. Asaph, 
 with its cathedral and palace occupying the 
 north in front of the marsh of Rhydlan, 
 where the Irish road crosses the Vale of 
 Clwydd. 
 
 The Conway rises in that vast tribe 
 of mountains w^hich encompass Snowdon 
 
176 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 in Caernarvonshire, and flows mostly 
 northward, with a variety of windings, to 
 the Irish sea, whicli it falls into soon after 
 it has passed the town and castle of 
 Conway. 
 
 This stream is very rapid in its origin, 
 from a small lake, tumbling in successive 
 falls from precipice to precipice till it 
 emerges from the Snowdonia, under the 
 high-wooded cliff of Gwedir. The nu- 
 merous branches which contribute to form 
 it, of which the MacJmo, the CeirWy and 
 tJie Llugvcy are most considerable, are all 
 furious torrents, rising in different tracts 
 of the same mountainous region. The 
 Conway, having united these, issues into 
 a beautiful vale bounded by lofty moun- 
 tains, passing beneath the elegant bridge 
 of Llanrwst, constructed by Inigo Jones, 
 and advancing in placid beauty as it dis- 
 ports itself in various curves along the 
 level. At length it receives the tide, and 
 swelling into a broad channel, is graced 
 with the magnificent pile of Conway 
 
OF GREAT BRITAII^. 177 
 
 Castle, and the embattled walls of its 
 town, near its exit. 
 
 The Ogwen is a small river, issuing 
 from the same chain of mountains, in- 
 clining to the north-west, and falling into 
 the arm of the sea called the Menal Straits, 
 a little below the small city and cathedral 
 of Bangor, and opposite to Beaumaries 
 in Anglesea. This, like the rest of the 
 same description, is a rapid river during 
 its short course. 
 
 The Seiont is a small, but very rapid 
 river, rising in the heart of the Snowdo- 
 nia, and forming the lakes of Llanheris in 
 its passage, which rather inclines to the 
 south-west, till it turns abruptly to the 
 north, to reach the sea beneath the mighty 
 towers of Caernarvon Castle. Its tract, 
 though short, is highly romantic, being 
 the most central stream in the moun- 
 tainous confines of Snowdon ; and nature 
 no where exhibits her rude outline more 
 magnificently than where the peak of 
 that British Atlas elevates itself above the 
 Castle of Dolbadern on the upper lake of 
 N 
 
tyB RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Llanherls. The ruins of Segontium arc 
 yet distinguishable on a planted hill near 
 its exit, where the view of Caernarvon, 
 with its castle, and the coast of Anglesea 
 across a great arm of the sea, is hardly to 
 be paralleled. 
 
 The coast of North Wales from the 
 mouth of the Dee, is for a long time 
 marshy, but the mountains advance 
 towards it near Holywell in Flint-shire, 
 though they again give place to marshes 
 at the termination of the Vale of Clwydd. 
 The point called The Ormes Head stretches 
 but far to the north at the mouth of the 
 Conway, forming one of the horns of a 
 great bay, with Trwyndii Point in Angle- 
 sea, at the entrance of the Menai Straits, 
 The coast now becomes very rocky, the 
 mountain of Penman- ross rises^in consi- 
 derable points of elevation, and Penman- 
 ma wr impends in a tremendous precipice 
 over the sea, strewed w4th rocks, along 
 which the G:reat Irish road is carried on a 
 shelf. The Menai Straits here separate 
 Anglesea from Caernarvonshire, and 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN-. 179 
 
 abound in peculiar beauties ; sometimes 
 appearing land-locked like a great lake, 
 and at others assuming the form of a large 
 navigable river, flowing with several curves 
 nearly in a direftion from north to south. 
 Throughout the whole, the wooded coast 
 of Anglesea, with the noble seats of Lord 
 Bulkley and Lord Uxbridge, and the 
 town and castle of Beaumaries, finely con- 
 trast the grand rocky display of Penman- 
 mawr and Snowdon, and the proud bas- 
 tions of Caernarvon Castle. The north- 
 ern part of the coast of Anglesea is rocky, 
 and peculiarly distinguished by the singu- 
 lar and rich copper mine in the Paris 
 mountain near Amlwch. Holyhead 
 stretches out far to the w^est in a penin- 
 sula which terminates in a high moun- 
 tain, and the shore then inclines to the 
 south-west, so as to complete the irregu- 
 lar parallelogram which the island forms. 
 Except towards the Menai Straits, Angle- 
 sea cannot boast much wood, and 
 Beaumaries, its capital, is the only con- 
 siderable town W'ithin its confines. The 
 
l80 RIVERS AJJD COAST 
 
 coast of Caernarvonshire then stretches 
 out far to the south, forming with Angle- 
 sea the large bay of Caernarvon, and ter- 
 minating in Porthorion point, beyond 
 which Bardsea Island lies extended. Se- 
 veral great mountains distinguish this 
 long neck of land, of which Porthyn- 
 dynlleyn head is most conspicuous ; a 
 small river descends into it from the 
 Cwellyn Lake in the Snowdonia, a few 
 miles below Caernarvon, terminating in 
 a bay, from the point of which the nar- 
 row ferry of Aber-menai to Anglesea is 
 established. There are no other streams 
 of consequence in this district, and Nevin 
 is its only considerable village. At this 
 extremity, the coast turning suddenly 
 round the point of Aberdaron, forms the 
 north-west horn of the great bay of Car- 
 digan, the most considerable indenture 
 made by the sea on the western side of 
 our Island, and equally distributed be- 
 tween North and South Wales. 
 
 Caernarvonshire extends upwards to 
 the north, distinguished by the two towns 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. t8i 
 
 of Pwlheli and Crickhelth with its castle, 
 running parallel to the coast already de^ 
 scribed on the Caernarvon bay. This 
 tract abounds in rude villages, but the 
 shore of Merionethshire, which fronts 
 the west, is far more wild and mountain- 
 ous, where the solid bastions of Harlech 
 Castle appear proudly elevated over the 
 waves, in front of its decayed capital, and 
 the rock of Barmouth exhibits a second 
 Calpe, protruding into the Irish sea. The 
 coast of Cardiganshire is little less wild, 
 fronting the west also for some distance 
 below Aberystwith, after which it gra- 
 dually diverges so as to present itself 
 towards the north, and that of Pembroke- 
 shire, indented by the lesser bays of New- 
 port and Fisguard, rendered memorable 
 by the French invasion, stretches out in 
 the same direction to the promontory on 
 the north of St. David's, so properly 
 forming the southern horn of this im- 
 mense gulph, which bears the title of the 
 hay of Cardigan, Unless in some favourite 
 epots, mostly at the mouths of the rivers 
 
 N3 - ^ 
 
l8z RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 which open into this vast expanse, no- 
 thing can be more wild and dreary than 
 the aspect of this country ; exposed to a 
 stormy channel of the Atlantic ocean 
 which separates England from Ireland. 
 Except Harlech, which now bears hardly 
 the consequence of a village, there are 
 few towns but on the banks of the vari» 
 ous rivers which descend here from the 
 interior of the five counties of Caernarvon, 
 Merioneth, Montgomery, Cardigan, and 
 Pembroke, in the following succession. 
 
 The Gwynedd is the first stream of 
 note at the head of this great bay, those 
 which descend into it at Pwllheli and 
 Crickheith, in the extreme horn of Caer- 
 narvonshire, being inconsiderable. It rises 
 under the southern base of Snowdon, 
 and passing with great rapidity through 
 that wild district by the poor hamlet of 
 Bethkelert, cleaves its way between the 
 stupendous rocks and mountains which 
 separate the counties of Caernarvon and 
 Merioneth, precipitating itself in a suc- 
 cession of falls, where the singular bridge 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 183 
 
 called Pont Aberglasslyn crosses it, over 
 which is the only practicable road through 
 this rude district. The Traeth-Mawr 
 Sands immediately succeed, forming a 
 considerable asstuary, which is fordable 
 from Penmorva at low water. 
 
 The Drwydd is a river of the same 
 description, rising inthe southern district of 
 the Merionethshire portion qi the Snow- 
 donia, and pursuing a short but winding 
 course towards the south-wxst, meets 
 the sea at the Traeth Bychan Sands, which 
 unite in the hay of Cardigan with those of 
 Traeth Mawr. 
 
 The Drvoydd is larger than the Gwyn- 
 nedd, and abating in its rapidity as it 
 emerges from the mountains, disports 
 itself in gentle curves through the de- 
 lightful valley of Festiniog, adorned with 
 rich woods, smiling enclosures, and the 
 stately groves which surround the eleva- 
 ted mansion of Tan-y-Bwlch, with its 
 pleasing inn and hamlet. Two fine stone 
 bridges with a long connecting causeway 
 present a grand approach from the south 
 N4 
 
184 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 to this enchanting district, which bursts 
 upon the eye of a traveller from the wild 
 hills confining it on either side with in- 
 credible beauty, and appears like a second 
 Tcmpe, enclosed by a savage outline of 
 mountains. 
 
 The Mawdoch and The Avon are 
 the two most considerable rivers which 
 Merionethshire can boast, as entirely ap- 
 propriate to itself, though the Dee and 
 the Dovey partly belong to that county. 
 
 The Mawdoch rises on the south side 
 of those mountains which form the bar- 
 rier of the valley of Festiniog in that 
 quarter, and its course is mostly south- 
 ward, till it meets the Avon about a mile 
 below Dolgelly, which flows through a 
 fine vale from the north-east, and finds 
 its origin in the mass of hills encircling 
 the Lake of Bala, not far from the source 
 of the Dee, Both these rivers, when 
 united, form a grand a3stuary, inclining 
 to the south-west, but turning abruptly 
 to the west at its mouth beneath the rock 
 of Barmouth, and its opposite cliffs. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 185 
 
 The course of the Mawdoch, though 
 short, is precipitous and rapid, receiving 
 several tributary streams of the same na- 
 ture, the principal of which are the Cayne 
 and the Mothwaye, remarkable for their 
 cataracts, and the torrent which produces 
 the celebrated y2j!//y of Dolymyllyn ; in the 
 latter part of its passage, it forms a nar- 
 row valley, strikingly wild in its aspeft, 
 and beautifully fringed w^ith wood. 
 
 The Avon is much larger, and more 
 placid than the Mawdoch, watering a 
 delightful vale for a considerable length, 
 where population and cultivation thrive 
 abundantly ; at the head of which stands 
 Dolgelly, the little capital of Merioneth. 
 
 No display of water can be more su- 
 perb than the great sestuary of these two 
 rivers at high tide, filling up the whole 
 space between the surrounding moun- 
 tains, among which Cader-Idris, the 
 second in North-Wales, exalts its three 
 points to the ikies, while the rock over- 
 hanging Barmouth impends magnifi- 
 cently over the shore. Neither should 
 
1 86 RIVEUS A^'D COAST 
 
 that extraordinary effort of art and labour 
 be unnoticed here, by which a noble road 
 is carried along the rocks which form its 
 northern bank, where nature has in vain 
 opposed its obstacles to the genius and 
 active perseverance of man. This ex- 
 traordinary pass sometimes springs from 
 rock to rock by arches over the frequent 
 torrents which descend from the moun- 
 tains, and at others occupies highly-ex- 
 alted terraces, which are formed with 
 great ingenuity in their sides, so that a 
 traveller now approaches Barmouth, 
 which was before almost inaccessible, 
 with equal pleasure and security, enjoying 
 throughout the finest views of this great 
 a^stuary, and its amphitheatre of moun- 
 tains. 
 
 The Dovey or Dyffi finds its source 
 on the southern side of thofe mountains 
 which range themselves round the Lake 
 of Bala, or Pimhle-Meer, joining the Be- 
 rouin ridge of Denbighshire. Its course 
 is nearly southward to Dinasmouthy, after 
 which it winds through a rich plain more 
 
OF GREA.T BRITAIN. l8/ 
 
 towards the westward to Machynleth, 
 and tlien turns yet more to the west as 
 it approaches the bay of Cardigan. Many 
 are the beautiful points of view which 
 the Dovey exhibits in its descent through 
 the wilder parts of its district ; emerging 
 from these beneath the wretched village 
 of Dinasmouthy and the hamlet of Ma- 
 ll wydd, it traverses a populous, cultivated, 
 and well-inhabited vale to the handsome 
 town of Machynleth in Montgomery- 
 shire, and then receiving the tide, it be- 
 comes crowded with vessels, and well 
 provided with docks, as it forms the 
 boundary between North and South 
 Wales, and passes between the mountain- 
 ous and wooded banks of Merionethshire 
 and those of Cardiganshire into the great 
 bay already described. 
 
 The Rhtdol and The Ystwith. 
 These are the two first rivers of South 
 Wales in the descent of the hay of Car- 
 digan, into which both fall a little below 
 the town of Aberystwith. 
 
 The Rhydol rises in Cardiganshire on 
 
l88 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 the south-western border of Montgomery- 
 shire, being one of the principal rivers 
 produced in that wild and rocky district 
 which forms the base of the great moun- 
 tain Plinlimmon, Its course is south- 
 ward, till it receives the Monadic torrent 
 at the DeviFs Bridge, and it then flows 
 directly to the west, turning a little 
 northward, as it reaches the sea beneath 
 the walls of Aberystwith. 
 
 This is a rapid river from its source to 
 its mouth, passing through a singularly 
 wild district, and forming a romantic 
 valley bounded by irregular mountains 
 on each side. Its steep banks are every 
 where abundantly fringed with brush 
 wood intermingled with rock, and near its 
 turn to the west it receives the dark 
 stream of the Monach, tumbling in a pro-r 
 digious fall, after cleaving its way through 
 a deep channel, beneath the two curious 
 parallel arches of the Devil's Bridge. Mr. 
 Johnne's highly-improved and planted 
 territory of Havod covers the hills and 
 vallies on the south of the Rhjydol, whose 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 189 
 
 vale expands considerably as it advances 
 towards the west, but does not admit 
 much cultivation, till within six miles of 
 its mouth. The stately old church of 
 Lyianbadern Vawr appears to great advan- 
 tage on a high elevation above its right 
 bank, and the large town of Aberystwith, 
 which is its port, graces its exit to the 
 sea. 
 
 The Ystwlth takes its origin in the 
 ridge of high bare mountains, which di- 
 vide Cardiganshire from Radnorshire, 
 considerably to the south-east of Plin- 
 iimmon ; its short course inclines first to 
 the south-west, but turns abruptly to the 
 north-west, and at laft flows almost di- 
 rectly northward to Aberystw^ith where it 
 meets the sea. 
 
 The aspect of this stream, though en- 
 compassed by as wild a district, is less 
 savage than that oi the Rhydol-, pleasant 
 meadows enclosing its winding banks, 
 where the nature of the country wall admit 
 of it, while some shew of population and 
 a few fine seats occasionally grace its 
 
190 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 course. The superb buildings, and pro- 
 minent groves of Havod, which barely 
 shew themselves as boundaries of the 
 vale of Rhydol, appear in all their fairy 
 display in that of Ystwith, presenting a 
 wonderful assemblage of objects, in which 
 the powers of nature and art are most 
 successfully united, to the surprize of 
 those strangers who have traversed the 
 dreary wilds which encompass this para- 
 dise. Crosswood park, an old place of 
 Lord Lisburne, and Nanteos, the hand- 
 some seat of Mr. Powell, enliven the 
 scene, in descending the vale formed by 
 the Ystwith, which river at last meets the 
 sea very near to the mouth of the Rhydoly 
 contributing with it to form the harbour 
 of Aberystwith, the principal haven in 
 the hay of Cardigan, and of late years 
 much frequented as a public sea-bathing 
 place. 
 
 The Eiron is a small river of Cardi- 
 ganshire, flowing westward into the bay 
 of Cardigan, where the coast of South 
 Wales begins to turn in that direction to 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIlSr. 191 
 
 form the opposite horn, to that of Aber- 
 daron in Caernarvonshire. This stream 
 would be scarcely worthy of mention 
 were it not for the highly pleasing and 
 romantic valley which it creates, as it 
 descends to the sea, and the neat inn of 
 Abereiron, close to its bridge. 
 
 The Tivy is a much more consider- 
 able river than either the Rhydol, or the 
 Ystwhh, being the principal stream of 
 Cardiganshire, and pervading great part 
 of that county, W'hich it divides from 
 Caermarthenshire and Pembrokeshire, 
 during the latter part of its course. Rising 
 from a lake among thofe mountains 
 which form the barrier of Radnorshire, 
 it flows southward to Tregaron, but turns 
 towards the west before it reaches Llan- 
 beder ; near Newcastle it inclines rather 
 northward, and actually fronts the north, 
 when it approaches the sea, after passing 
 under the arches of the old bridge of 
 Cardigan. 
 
 The Tivy becomes a placid stream, soon 
 after it emerges from its native moun- 
 
192 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 tains, and continues so in its passage 
 through the plain of Cardiganshire, ex- 
 cept when it is swelled by floods. The 
 monastic remains of Strata Florida Abbey 
 grace the early part of its course, before 
 it reache3 the antient town of Tregaron ; 
 it then enters the wild uninteresting 
 plain in which Llanbeder is situated, gra- 
 dually confining itself within steep banks 
 fringed with wood as it approaches New- 
 castle. Soon afterwards it becomes sud- 
 denly engulphcd within two piles of high 
 rocks, from which it acquires the rapidity 
 of a furious cataract, precipitating itself 
 in a fall, which has acquired the title of 
 the Salmo7i leap. 
 
 Augmented afterwards by the tide, the 
 Thy proceeds in a broad majestic stream, 
 winding between the bases of two lofty 
 ridges, on one of which the proud towers 
 of Kilgarren Castle, starting forth from a 
 high mass of rock and wood, are opposed 
 beautifully by the hanging groves and 
 spreading lawns of Coidmore. The exit 
 of the river from this grand pass is at- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. I93 
 
 tended with a view of the hills bounding 
 the sea, across a small but populous and 
 busy plain, at the extremity of which the 
 handsome town of Cardigan displays it- 
 self, with its fine old bridge and castle. 
 
 o:M 
 
194 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Mil ford Haven, and its various branches — 
 I The Taave — ^The Towey of Caermar- 
 
 thenshlre — The Lwghor — The Lower 
 
 Taave, The Neath, The TaafFe, and 
 \ The Rhumncy of Glamorganshire — 
 
 The Uske of Breconshire and Mon- 
 1 mouthshire — Coast of South Wales from 
 
 St. David's Head In Pembrokeshire, to 
 \ the mouth of Tht Wye below Chepstowe 
 
 •' In Mo?tmouthshire, extending along the 
 
 whole Bristol Channel, opposite to the 
 I Coast of Cornwall, Devonshire, and 
 
 f ' Somersetshire. 
 
 MilfordHaven AND ITS Branches. 
 
 This justly-admired harbour, indenting 
 i deeply the southern coast of Pembroke- 
 
 * shire, occupies a large space of that 
 
 county, with its great basin, and the va- 
 I rious curving branches that contribute tq 
 
as, y 
 
 J 
 t 
 
 1 
 
 •v^ 
 
 S^ 
 
 ^^-\ 
 
 w 
 
 JH 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 \ri__ 
 
 
 *^^ 
 
 
 "^ 
 
 •^ 
 
 
 
 
 ^ 1, 
 
 <^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 
 ^^ 
 
 !^ 
 
 ) "^ 
 
 
 / 
 
 Pi 
 
 i f^ 
 
 
 '■•>^ 
 
 H 
 
 /- 
 
 ^_^ 
 
 
 ^ / 
 
 4" 
 
 
 i 
 
 ^ /ff 
 
 ^i< 
 
 
 -^•"■■'•- 
 
 ) 2 . 
 
 
 
 ^ • 
 
 Jl 
 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 
 n 
 
 
 'i?' f5 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sj^% 
 
 / 
 
 >'-' 
 
 
 ■ r 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
»»iw i ii»^ » i in #ifc m I J,-^. ,^ . __i 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. I95 
 
 form it, which are fed by some incon- 
 siderable streams from the interior of the 
 country. Few of these are dignified 
 with any certain appellation, except the 
 H'togy though most of them suddenly be- 
 come great asstuaries from mere rivulets, 
 united with the main basin, as the claws 
 are with the body of a crab, and equally 
 sinuous. The Hiog rises near the village 
 of St. Catherine in the north-western part 
 of Pembrokeshire, not far from Fisguard, 
 passing through the centre of the county, 
 and forming a romantic dell for many 
 miles before it reaches the capital town 
 of Haverford-West in its way to the 
 south. It then becomes navigable, and, 
 widening in its course, meets another 
 branch of the Havejt at Llanshipplng Ferry, 
 which, fed also by its creative stream, 
 descends from the north-east beneath the 
 groves of Slebatch and Picton Castle. 
 A long winding course succeeds^ till a third 
 branch from Loveston in the north-east, 
 and a fourth from the noble ruin of Care w 
 Castle in the south-east, unite beneath 
 
196 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 the elevated mansion, fine park, and 
 rich woods of Laurenny, and form a 
 second Junction with this greater body of 
 water beneath their impending shades. 
 SwelUng into various bays, and studded 
 w^ith sails, this increased aestuary inclines 
 towards the west, being soon afterwards 
 joined by a fifth branch flowing from the 
 'ancient town and majestic bastions of 
 Pembroke Castle. Here the grand basin 
 opens, inclining chiefly to the west, but 
 turning abruptly southward near its 
 mouth, and appearing, perfectly land- 
 locked when viewed from within; the 
 ports of Hubberston, Haikin, and Milford 
 occupy one of the many bays near the 
 centre of this great sheet of water, which 
 undoubtedly constitutes the most spacious 
 harbour in the British Island. 
 
 Such is the actual display of Milford 
 Haven, abundantly favoured by nature, 
 and immortalized by the description of 
 our first dramatic bard in his play of 
 Cymbeline. As a picturesque object, the 
 great ba$in loses much of its effect from 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. jgr 
 
 a deficiency of wood, and the uniform 
 want of grandeur in the surrounding hills; 
 but these points of beauty are abundantly 
 supplied in the course of ks vuhid'mg 
 branches, and more particularly /;/ that of 
 Laurenny, 
 
 As an object of utility to a maritime 
 nation^ Milford Haven suffers from a want 
 of that attention which has been pro- 
 fusely bestowed on harbours far inferior ; 
 and, except where some^absurd and ex- 
 pensive fortifications have been erected 
 too far up the country to be serviceable, 
 it, languishes in undeserved obscurity. Its 
 trade, notwithstanding, is considerable, 
 though it cannot boast of being a favoured 
 arsenal of the British navy, and it pre- 
 sents the readiest passage to the south of 
 Ireland. 
 
 The Taave rises in the range of hills 
 called Procelle, which form the only 
 mountainous district of Pembrokeshire. 
 Its course is short, bearing first to thp 
 south-west, then to the south, and lastly, 
 to the south-east. 
 
 03 
 
igS RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 This stream is not distinguished by any 
 particular circumstance ; the country 
 through which it flows being chiefly 
 wild and uninteresting, till it sinks into 
 a pleasant valley near St. Clear, and soon 
 after becoming very wide towards its 
 mouth, falls into the great bay of Caer- 
 marthenshire beneath the walls of Llag* 
 huarne and its castle. 
 
 The Towey is the most considerable 
 river in Caermarthenshire, finding its 
 source not far from that of the Tivy, in 
 the distant wilds of Cardiganshire, be- 
 tween Tregaron and Rhyadergowy. 
 
 The Towey flows southward through 
 the dreary waste of Roscol forest to Lla- 
 nymdovery, and then inclines more and 
 more to the west as it passes Llandilo and 
 approaches Caermarthen, where it receives 
 the tide, becoming navigable, and turns 
 southward to its mouth at Llanstephan. 
 
 A more varied and interesting district 
 can hardly be described, than that which 
 attends the whole course of this noble 
 river, which, gradually divesting itself of 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. igg 
 
 the wild character marking its origin, at 
 Llanymdovery waters a fine plain, well 
 diversified by villages and cultivation, but 
 not unattended with a mountainous ap- 
 pearance. At Llandilo it takes a different 
 aspect, and sweeping round the proud do- 
 main of Dinevawr Castle, passes beneath 
 its well- wooded territory, and the oppo- 
 site seat of GoldenGrove, to form the rich 
 vale of Caermarthen. Grongar Hill, Russ*- 
 land Castle, Middleton Hall, and num- 
 berless villages, decorate this happy ter- 
 ritory, which teems with all the beauties 
 that abundant nature, art well applied, 
 and classic fame can bestow. This vale, 
 widening as it proceeds, admits a range 
 of the greenest meadows, through which 
 the river winds in manifold curves, as it 
 flows by the palace of Abefguilly, belong- 
 ing to the Bishoprick of St. Davids, and 
 approaches the spot on which the county 
 town of Caermarthen is placed. The 
 To'wey, after passing under the old bridge 
 of Caermarthen, soon becomes an ^estuary, 
 crowded with vessels, and discharges itself 
 
 04 
 
500 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 into the sea with great grandeur beneath 
 the lofty rock on which the towers of 
 Llanstephan stand exalted, near the centre 
 of the great Caermarthenshtre hay. 
 
 The Lwghor is inconsiderable except 
 at its mouth, flowing directly southward 
 from the mountains w hich enclose Llan- 
 dilo, and dividing for some distance the 
 counties of Cacrmarthen and Glamorgan. 
 At Pont-ardillas it receives the tide, fal- 
 ling at length into the recess of the hay of 
 Cardigan called the Biirry, beneath the 
 small town and castle of Lwghor, where 
 a ferry is established to that part of Gla- 
 morganshire called Gower, which this 
 stream contributes to render a peninsula. 
 
 The Lower Taave rises in the 
 mountains which separate Glamorgan- 
 shire from Breconshire, and traversing a 
 wild district towards the south, soon be- 
 comes immersed in the coal and copper 
 works with which the vicinage of Swan- 
 sea abounds, and attended by parallel ca- 
 nals, passes through their sulphureous re- 
 gion tq the busy town ofSvt^ansca, where 
 
or <JUKAT BRITAIN. 201 
 
 it fulls into the Glamorganshire bay. 
 Were it not for- the prevalence of these 
 works, and the atmosphere they create, 
 the valley formed by this river v^oiild be 
 pleasant, as the hills which encircle it are 
 bold, and not unadorned with wood. An 
 arid sterility, however, marks many of 
 the heights near the copper works, dis- 
 robing them of their verdure, and con- 
 trasts disagreeably the black soil and aspect 
 of the collieries, combining with them 
 to involve the whole surrounding country 
 in volumes of smoke. 
 
 The Neath is a much more consi- 
 derable river than the Taave, finding its 
 origin in the same range of mountains, 
 but somewhat to the eastward ; descend- 
 ing from these with great rapidity, it 
 forms at last a deep valley, through which 
 it pursues its course southward, inclining 
 a little to the west, to Neath, where it 
 meets the tide, and after several curves 
 in the marsh below that town, falls into 
 the centre of the bay of Swansea. 
 
 The rapid encrease of this stream from 
 
ZOZ RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 a cataract to a rivulet, and from a rivulet 
 to a river, as it descends from its moun- 
 tainous source, is much to be admired. 
 At Pont- Neath -Vaughan it receives 
 several tributary streams, each of which 
 are adorned w^ith highly romantic glens, 
 intermixed with rock, and fringed with 
 brush-wood. It then pervades a valley 
 abounding in rich woods and over-hang- 
 ing groves, which, as it widens, presents 
 a canal and its attendant works parallel 
 with the course of the river. The lawns, 
 plantations, and fine buildings of the 
 Gnoll appear next, proudly over-looking 
 the numerous forges and collieries of 
 Neath ; a broad marsh succeeds, after 
 which the entrance of the Neath into the 
 fine bay of Glamorgan is graced with 
 the groves encircling the beautiful terri- 
 tory of Briton Ferry, and the more dis- 
 tant summit of the high hill of Margam, 
 covered with oaks from its base to its 
 summit. 
 
 The Avon, The Ogmore, AND Tht 
 EwENNr, aTc three small rivers, pervad- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 503 
 
 ing the vale of Glamorgan, and each 
 falling successively into the great bay 
 formed by the coast of that county. 
 Neither of these rivers is attended with 
 any peculiar features, except the collieries 
 and copper works which encircle the exit 
 of the Avon, a little below the fine park 
 of Margam, and the town of Bridgend 
 on the Ogmore, which rises in a small 
 lake among the mountains, and is soon 
 joined by the Llamy. The Ewenny meets 
 these united streams at last, and each 
 river pursues a line, but little deviating 
 from the south in its short course. 
 
 The Taaffe boasts the same moun- 
 tainous origin with the rest of the Gla- 
 morganshire rivers, but is greatly larger 
 and more beautiful than the others ; it 
 inclines throughout to the south-east, 
 forming in its passage a great variety of 
 curves. 
 
 The source oi the Taaffe is considerably 
 
 eastward of that of the Neath, within the 
 
 limits of Breconshire, and on the south 
 
 side of that vast pile of mountains which 
 
 1 
 
204 KIVERS AND COAST 
 
 encircle the two lofty summits of the 
 Van of Brecknock. Like the Neath, the 
 Taaffe hastily forms itself from a torrent, 
 tumblmg in successive cataracts till it 
 becomes a river, and attaining that cha- 
 racter before it reaches the flourishing 
 iron-w^orks of Merthyr Tydvill, which, 
 covering the interior recesses of a rude 
 and mountainous district, might in classic 
 times have been mistaken for the furnaces 
 and workshops of Vulcan. From thence 
 the Taaffe precipitates itself with vast 
 force and rapidity into the deep abyfs of 
 a vale, whose opposite banks are distin- 
 guished by a canal, keeping pace with it 
 as it descends by a quick succession of 
 locks on one side, while a road is con- 
 ducted curiously from terrace to terrace 
 on the other. This hasty descent is prin- 
 cipally performed in several miles, yet the 
 vale still apparently sinks as it expands, 
 till the hills swell above it into moun- 
 tains, whose rugged tops appear finely 
 disposed at every turn of the road, above 
 the profuse cloathing of w^ood with which 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 505 
 
 their rocky sides and bases are covered. 
 The road and opposite canal still occupy 
 a shelf on each side of the Taajfe, which 
 encreasing in rapidity forces its way with 
 unparalleled fury between the barriers of 
 mountains, woods, and impending cliffs, 
 till it is crossed by the wonderful struc- 
 ture of the Po7it-y-Pryddy presenting a 
 single arch, which springs from rock to 
 rock wdth indescribable hghtncss and 
 beauty. Several miles lowxr, after pass- 
 ing under the ruins of Castle Coch, which 
 was built to defend the entrance of this 
 valley, the Taaffe emerges into a spacious 
 and well-inhabited plain, in which the 
 antient monastic city of Llandaffe, now 
 little more than a village, and the flourish- 
 ing county town of Cardiffe are situated. 
 Flowing through their bridges, it meets 
 the tide, and traverses a broad marsh to 
 fall into the sea opposite to the high rock 
 of Pennarth. 
 
 The Uske rises in the mountains 
 which divide Breconshire from Caermar- 
 thenshire, flowing eastward to Brecon, 
 
2o6 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 from whence it inclines a little to the 
 south in its way to Abergavenny, and still 
 more so to Uske, where it turns to the 
 south-west towards Caerleon, Newport, 
 and the Bristol Channel. 
 
 A peculiar mixture of the grand and 
 the placid in landscape attends this river 
 from its origin, as emerging from the 
 mountains it forms a strongly- featured 
 valley by Leuchyntevin, Devcnog, and 
 amidst the rich groves and lawns of Pen- 
 pont to Brecknock, where the rapid 
 Honddy descends to it from the north. 
 A diifercnt scene displays itself after 
 passing that handsome town, as the Uske 
 flows by the seats of Peterstone, Ske- 
 throg, and Buckland, till winding round 
 the mountain of the Bwlch, it enters 
 into a more extended vale, highly 
 wooded, well cultivated, and abounding 
 in population. 
 
 Crickhowell, with its picturesque spire 
 and castle, occupies an eminence in the 
 centre of this charming tract, surrounded 
 by many pleasant seats, and encompassed 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 507 
 
 by an amphitheatre of mountains, among 
 which, the Black Mountain, the Sugar 
 Loaf, the Blorenge, and the Desguilfa, 
 bear the most conspicuous forms. A few 
 miles lower, the Uske enters Monmouth- 
 shire, and soon afterwards reaches the old 
 town of Abergavenny, most delightfully 
 situated just without the gap formed by 
 the mountains, at the entrance of the 
 great plain of that county. Through 
 this plain it w^inds to reach the town 
 and castle of Uske, joined by a small 
 stream from the north-west, which sup- 
 plies the town and works of Pontypool. 
 It meets the tide before it approaches the 
 curious town of Caerleon, flowing through 
 the singular bridges of timber which lead 
 to that place and Newport. The Elwy 
 and the Sorwy rising in the mountainous 
 tract towards the north-west, and, after 
 their union, passing through the exten- 
 sive and well-wooded park which over- 
 hangs the magnificent old seat of Trede- 
 gar enter the marshes below that place, 
 and join the Uske at its mouth, where 
 
2C8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 all contribute to enlarge the Bristol Chan- 
 neL 
 
 The soutTiern coast of Wales is, through- 
 out Pembrokeshire, almost as dreary and 
 wild as that which opposes the Bay of Car- 
 digan ; and the Bay of St. Bride, fronting 
 the stormy west, and environed with a 
 range of tremendous cliffs, often threatens 
 inevitable destruction to thofe happless 
 mariners who are driven towards its in- 
 auspicious opening. MUford Haven, im- 
 mediately succeeding, holds out a safer 
 refuge -, but beyond it the coast continues 
 rocky, as well as full of caves and singu- 
 lar apertures, to the entrance of the Bay 
 of Caermarthen. Stackpoole Court, the 
 fine scat of Lord Cawdor, exhibits a 
 striking contrast to the bleak outline 
 which surrounds it, in a romantic dell 
 profusely interwoven with wood, near a 
 small creek, which penetrates hexe into 
 the country from the fea. Manorbear 
 Castle also presents a fine object on the 
 shore, and the rock on which Tenby is 
 situated, marked by its high spire and 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. j^op 
 
 happy intermixture of wood, stretches out 
 far into the large Bay of Caermarthe?i, 
 forming also the southern extremity of 
 that wild range of cliffs on the Pem- 
 brokeshire coast, which extend from St. 
 David's Head and St. Bride's Bay. 
 
 The beauty of the Situation of Tenby, 
 the purity of its air, and its excellent po- 
 sition for bathing (having admirable fands, 
 ever accessible and open to two SQas), 
 have made this town to be much fre- 
 quented by company during the summer 
 and autumnal seasons, so that it may 
 justly be called the pleasantest public 
 place in .Wales. The coast of Cornwall 
 and many points of Devonshire are seen 
 from hence at a considerable distance 
 acrofs the channel, in the centre of whi^h 
 the oval rock of the Isle of Lundy is 
 distinctly visible. The opposite horn of 
 the hay of Cacrmarthen to that of Tenby 
 is formed by the point of Penrhyn-Gwyr, 
 the extremity of that singular peninsula 
 in Glamorganshire which is called Gower. 
 Within this vast expanse of water the 
 P 
 
210 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Taave, the Towey, and the Lugwhor find 
 their passage to the sea. The hay of Ox^ 
 wlch, containing Mr. Talbot's orna- 
 mented creation of Penrice, opens on the 
 other side of the point of Gower, and still 
 lower, the greater hay of Swamea expands 
 itself from the Mumble's Point, crowned 
 with and exhibiting the fine ruin of 
 Oystermouth Castle, within which is a 
 safe harbour for shipping. The wooded 
 hill of Margam descends to this bay per- 
 pendicularly, nearly opposite to the 
 Mimihles Head, surrounded by Mr. Tal- 
 bot's spacious park, beneath which his 
 superb orangery is built, near the elegant 
 gothic remains of the old chapter-house 
 of Margam monastery. The pleasant inn 
 of Pyle, which has been splendidly re- 
 built and fitted up by that gentleman, 
 commands the whole of the hay of Swan- 
 sea finely from the terraces of its gardens, 
 but its contiguous bathing place of New- 
 ton is rendered unpleasant by the vast 
 hillocks of loose sand with which it is 
 -surrounded. The inhabited castles of 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 511 
 
 Dunraven, St. Donats, and Funmun, 
 grace the district which expands into the 
 sea beyond the hay of Swansea, and which 
 opens into what may properly be called 
 the hay of Glamorgan, in which the little 
 Island of Barry holds out its attractions 
 to the neighbourhood as a sea-bathing 
 place. The Bristol Channel being here 
 much contracted, the heights of the op- 
 posite coast of Devonshire and Somer- 
 setshire, between Ilfracomb and Mine- 
 head, appear finely elevated, and the two 
 little islands of the Steep and the Fhu 
 Holmes, one of which is crowned with a 
 light-house, divide the expanse of water, 
 but are much nearer to the Welch than 
 the English coast. 
 
 The fliore of Monmouthshire inclines 
 principally to the south, verging at last 
 towards the east, during the first part of 
 which, marshes extend from it far into 
 the country, till they are stopped by one 
 of those ridges of hills with which that 
 county abounds. The groves of Trede- 
 gar appear exalted above this level, and 
 
21Z RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 the church-yard of Newport commands 
 a beautiful view of the opposite shores of 
 Somersetshire and Glocestershire, with 
 the numerous fhipping generally collected 
 ^t Kmg'Road at the mouth of the Lower 
 Avon. A new bridge over the Uske at 
 Newport does great credit to the libera- 
 lity of the county, and facilitates the in- 
 tercourse with Wales, which the old 
 structure rendered very inconvenient. 
 Beyond Newport, Sir Robert Salusbury's 
 seat of Llanwerne adorns the Mon- 
 mouthshire coast, and the ruins of Cal- 
 decot Castle make a distinguished figure 
 near the black rock, where the New Pas- 
 sage to Bristol is constituted, a little below 
 the entrance of The Wye. 
 
I 
 
Ji' ^ J SOHKWSJIl 
 
 c ^ / / 
 
 llj^fi-* 
 
 jljmlidloejji. \ 
 
 SHROP SHllTj 
 
 JrLSg'eixoii'tnV 
 
 
 
 ATider f>/- Jto^^TTf^ 
 
 Shire 
 
 Bat 
 
 enlmiT 
 
 IVi:^in^cl.]L,^ l^ r^ 
 
 gton ( J c\ )^ 
 
 rrkfoJr^ ,^ 
 
 , >^ I'll .^fycriiK^ .■•\-v 
 
 : SHJ^E 
 
 Che 
 
 SAatft 
 
 p-"- V f^^t*""!^ 
 
 ^GlA^CKSTEB. 
 
 GlO ci^STH^ 
 
 «^^^SHI RE 
 
 fiQv\at\e^ \ ^ J 
 
 J^ Chippenhmi/ 
 
 liritufh MiUf. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. !Zl^ 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 The Wje, and Its trihutary streams; viz. 
 The Eilon, The Irthen, The Crewyn, 
 The Llevenny, The Lugg> and The 
 Mono we — The Severn, its sources, ajid 
 three assistant rivers ; viz. The Teme 
 of ShropsJiire, The Upper Avon of War- 
 wickshire, and The Lower Avon of 
 Somersetshire, 
 
 The Wye, and its tributary 
 STREAMS. — This noble river rises on the 
 south side of the great mountain of PHn- 
 limmon, on the borders of Montgomery- 
 shire and Cardiganshire, being somewhat 
 southward of the source oi the Severn, 
 and eastward of that of the RhydoL Its 
 course, is at first towards the south, in- 
 clining gradually to the east, as it sepa- 
 rates Breconshire from Radnorshire, till 
 stopped by the protruding mass of the 
 
 1^3 
 
514 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Black Mountain, it turns to the north- 
 east till it has passed the Hay, and then 
 flows mostly eastward through the great 
 plain of Herefordshire, to the anticnt ca- 
 pital of that county. Its course is then 
 chiefly southward to Ross, inclining to 
 the west afterwards, as it approaches 
 Monmouth, from whence it is princi- 
 pally directed to the south, till it unites 
 itself with the Seventy near which it found 
 its origin, below Chepstowe, thus forming 
 the Bristol Charmeh Near Rhyadergowy 
 it receives the Eilon from the Cwtn-Ty- 
 then hills, and afterwards the Ython from 
 the Radnorshire borders of Shropshire. 
 The Crewyn joins it at Builth from the 
 edge of Cardiganshire, and as it ap- 
 proaches the Black Mountain, the Lie- 
 venny, issuing from the great pool of Lan- 
 gors in Breconshire, descends to it by the 
 old town of Talgarth. Various other 
 small streams are also added to it, as it 
 emerges from the recesses of Wales into 
 the plain of Herefordshire. The turbid 
 stream of the Lugg from Presteigne and 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 515 
 
 Leominster (joined by the Endwell from 
 New Radnor, the Arow from Kington 
 and Pembridge, and the Frome from Brom- 
 yard) contaminates for a while the pure 
 waters of the Wye below Hereford ; the 
 Monowe also, joined by various small 
 streams on the border of Herefordshire, 
 and meeting at last the Trothy from the 
 interior of Monmouthshire, is added to 
 the Wye below Monmouth. None of 
 these branches, or the countries they pass 
 through, have features unconnected with 
 the Wye, which require any peculiar de- 
 scription. 
 
 The Wye, though not the greatest, may 
 certainly be called the most beautiful of 
 the rivers of South Wales, abounding in 
 grand and majestic features, varying in- 
 cessantly its course and appearance with 
 the countries through which it passes, 
 and yet preserving strong traits of its 
 original character throughout. Its rapi- 
 dity is almost unparalleled, as, descending 
 from its native mountains, it dashes 
 with incredible fury through the rocks 
 
 P4 
 
2l6 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 over which the single-arched bridge of 
 Rhyadergowy is thrown, and forces its 
 way between two great barriers of moun- 
 tains to the small but finely-featured 
 plain, in which the pleasant town of 
 Builth, and its bridge and castle, present 
 conspicuous objects. It then forms a 
 highly-romantic vale, bounded by lofty 
 hills on each side, and rolling with in- 
 expressible rapidity and beauty over its 
 rocky channel, winds finely between the 
 bold rocks of Abereddo, and the woods en- 
 circling the pleasant little hamlet of Er- 
 wood. Soon afterwards it makes a sur- 
 prising curve, tumbling in a succession of 
 falls over the shelving rofcks of its foun- 
 dation, and roaring like one continued 
 cataract, as it passes beneath the thick 
 groves and expanded lawns surrounding 
 Llangoed Castle in Breconshire. The 
 furrowed sides and protruding angles of 
 the Black Mountain now seem to block 
 up all further passage, when the Wye, 
 turning boldly towards the east, proceeds 
 in a broad and deeper stream through a 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ZlJ 
 
 range of charming meadows, still divid- 
 ing the counties of Radnor and Brecon. 
 Though it loses here the rugged appear- 
 ance of a cataract, it yet preserves a great 
 portion of its original rapidity, and in 
 times of flood ravages this delightful 
 valley w^ith destructive fury, of which 
 the ruins of the three fine stone bridges 
 of Glasbury, the Hay, and Whitney, bear 
 tremendous marks. Maesleugh, the ele- 
 vated seat of Mr. Wilkins, graces the 
 Radnorshire bank, opposed to the shelving 
 eminences of the Black Mountain, and 
 further on, the single tree which marks 
 the point of Clyro Forest, overhanging 
 its village, fronts the old town and castle 
 of the Hay in Breconshire, beyond which 
 rise the high groves of the More- Wood, 
 encircling their verdant lawns with ex- 
 treme beauty and grandeur. 
 
 Such is the proud exit of the Wye from 
 Wales, Herefordshire succeeding to Bre- 
 conshire, though Radnorshire still occu- 
 pies its northern bank, as it passes be- 
 tween the woods arid orchards of Cabalva, 
 
3l8 lilVERS AND COAST 
 
 and the village of Clifford, with its high 
 church and the ruins of that castle which 
 gave birth to fair Rosamond. Beneath 
 the few remaining fragments of Whitney 
 bridge, it enters the rich plain of Here- 
 fordshire, and glides beautifully between 
 orchards, meadows, corn-fields, and vil- 
 lages, till it passes suddenly through the 
 bold arches of Bredwardine bridge, as if 
 turned by the abrupt and commanding 
 eminence of Mawbeeh hill. It then 
 forms a sweet valley for itself in the midst 
 of the plain, decorated with many hand- 
 some seats, among which. Sir George 
 Cornwall's groves and park at Mocca's 
 Court, and Major Cotterell's fine spot of 
 Garnons, are most, observable. The Wye 
 loses itself at length in the flat encircling 
 the antient city of Hereford, whose ca- 
 thedral appears restored in renovated 
 beiuty from the late fall of its western 
 tower, together with its palace and the 
 pleasant walk of its Castle Green, over- 
 hanging the river, which here becoming 
 navigable, seems prematurely infected by 
 
OF GREA.T BRITAIN. l^l^ 
 
 the subsequent junction of the Lugg, iti 
 clearness being sullied, and its rapidity 
 apparently lost for a time. Thus it slug- 
 gishly creeps on through a country, which, 
 though by no means level or unadorned 
 with seats, that of the Duke of Norfolk 
 at Holme-Lacy being a striking object, 
 does not abound in picturesque beauty. 
 At Ross it emerges from this temporary 
 eclipse, and recovering with tenfold energy 
 from its late state of apparent repose, re- 
 sumes the brightnefs and rapidity of its 
 pristine character, as it forms the admired 
 curve which the church-yard of that 
 town commands. The celebrated spire 
 of Ross-church, peeping over a noble row 
 of elms, here fronts the ruined castle of 
 Wilton, beneath the arches of whose 
 bridge the Wye flows through a charming 
 sucession of meadows, encircling at last 
 the lofty and well-wooded hill, crowned 
 with the majestic fragments of Goodrich 
 Castle, and opposed by the waving emi- 
 nences of the forest of Dean. The mighty 
 pile of Symond's rock succeeds, round 
 
250 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 which the river forms an astonishing pe- 
 ninsula of seven miles, joined by the nar- 
 row isthmus which this chfF connects. 
 High hills and thick woods now encom- 
 pass it on every side, till turning beneath 
 the groves of Hadnock, it approaches the 
 picturesque spire and old bridge of Mon- 
 mouth, in a broad and strait reach with 
 considerable majesty. Contrary to the 
 usual course of riv^ers, the rapidity of the 
 Wye encreaGcs, and the objects surround- 
 ing it enlarge as it terminates its course ; 
 after the junction of ihe Mo7iowe, it is for 
 a while buried in the deep abyss of the 
 valley it forms, rolling over incessant 
 shoals from Redbrook, through a wild 
 and ill-inhabited district, till it passes the 
 villages of Llandogoe and Brockware, at 
 the latter of which it meets the tide. 
 Swelling at once there into a majestic 
 aestuary, it fills the space between the 
 impending w^oods and rocks on either 
 side, and winding with inexpressible 
 grandeur round the ivy-mantled frag- 
 ments of Tintcrn x-^bbey, it encompasses ' 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN". ^::Jf 
 
 the rocky promontory of Llancaiit in 
 Glocestershire, while its Monmouthshire 
 bank is enriched with all the profusion 
 of mighty cliffs, thick plantations, and 
 that happy combination of nature and 
 art, with which Persfield is ornamented. 
 Rolling proudly w^ith an impetuous stream 
 amidst this grand assemblage of objects, 
 the Wye approaches the embattled walls 
 of Chepstow Castle, starting from a lofty 
 cliff, beyond which, its highly commer- 
 cial town descends to its celebrated bridge 
 of timber, where the tide rises eighty 
 feet perpendicular ; beneath the flourish- 
 ing port of this town it is still encom- 
 passed by cliffs, through which it rushes 
 into the Bristol Channel. 
 
 The Severn, its sources, and 
 ASSISTANT rivers. — ^This is certainly 
 the principal river in Wales, and second 
 only to the Xhames in England, belong- 
 ing alternately to both countries. It 
 finds its origin in the northern district of 
 the county of Montgomery, and then 
 pervading great part of Shropshire, Wor- 
 
i?^:? RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 cestershire, and Glocestershir^, becomes 
 an aestuary below Gloccster, and takes the 
 name of the Bristol Channel on its union 
 ivith the JVye and the Lower Avon, thus 
 yejoining the ancient borders of its native 
 principality, as it divides Monmouthshire, 
 Glamorganshire, Caermarthcnahire, and 
 Pembrokeshire, from Glocestershire, So- 
 mersetshire, Devonshire, and Cornwall. 
 
 The principal of the sources of the Se» 
 vent rises in a small lake on the eastern 
 side of Plinlimmon, not far from the 
 heads of the Jf^e, and the Rhjdol, bearing 
 the title of the Hafren river, as it 
 flows through a wild district towards the 
 south-east to Llanidloes. It then turns 
 to the north-east, between hills pleasantly 
 fringed with wood, as it approaches 
 Newtown, assuming its proper name of 
 the Severn, From thence its course is 
 almost due north, through the delightful 
 vale of Montgomeryshire, which is highly 
 cultivated, and adorned with numerous 
 towns, villages, and seats. Beyond Welch- 
 Pool it enters the great plain of Shrop- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 223 
 
 sKire, and making a considerable compass 
 turns abruptly to the south-cast ; it then 
 almost encircles the town of Shrewsbury, 
 pursuing the same direction till it has 
 passed Colebrooke Dale, soon after which 
 it flows southward to Bridgnorth, Bewd- 
 ley, Worcester, and Glocester, dividing 
 near the latter city into two channels, 
 which, re-uniting soon afterwards, con- 
 stitute a great tide river. Except a large 
 semicircle which the Severn makes at 
 Newnham, its course is chiefly to the 
 south-west below Glocester, till it assumes 
 the title oi the Bristol Channel, expanding 
 and insc^nsibly losing itself in the Atlantic 
 ocean, between the Land's End of Corn- 
 wall and the extreme point of Pem- 
 brokeshire, just at the entrance of St. 
 George's Channel, which separates Great 
 Britain from Ireland. 
 
 The character of the Severn does not 
 much assimilate with its mountainous 
 origin, and it sooi;i loses its native rapi- 
 dity, forming large vales, and generally 
 burying itself within deep banks. Its 
 
2^24 RIVERS Aisrb coast 
 
 colour also is far less transparent than that 
 of the Wye, nor does it in any respect 
 equal that river in picturesque beautj or 
 variety of grand scenery, though it is 
 greatly superior in commercial import- 
 ance, and the population of its several 
 districts, with their rich plains and fine 
 cities. Even at Llanidloes it ceases to 
 be a torrent, and from thence it forms a 
 delightful valley, more like the extensive 
 vales of England than those stripes of 
 cultivation which prevail within the 
 mountains of Wales. Every appearance 
 of fertility exists in this happy district, 
 and agriculture with its attendant popu- 
 lation contribute to enrich it. Innume- 
 rable villages lie spread beneath the hills, 
 the handsome tow^n of Newtown adorns 
 its banks, and the fragments of Mont- 
 gomery Castle start forv^ard on a high 
 mount, shelterinii; the remains of a tov^n, 
 once more considerable. As the Severn, 
 turned apparently by thisbulwark, Inclines 
 to the north, the vale expands greatly in 
 front of the insulated hills of Brythe7i and 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^^^ 
 
 Moelogolfa, while the river flows beneath 
 the superb groves, lawns, and terraces of 
 Powis Castle, to commence its early com- 
 mercial importance at the opulent town 
 of Welch-Pool Soon afterwards, it en- 
 ters the great plain of Shropshire, where 
 it glides almost undistinguished till it ap- 
 proaches Shrewsbury, whose walls it 
 nearly girds with its encircling stream ; 
 the churches, public buildings, walks, 
 and two grand bridges of this county 
 town, present very striking objects from 
 the heights they occupy above it. The 
 Severn then pervades a pleasant district 
 near the foot of the Wrekin hill, by a fine 
 seat of Lord Berwick, where the Tern 
 joins it, and passing under an old bridge 
 by the ruin of Buildwas Abbey, sinks at 
 once into that deep abyss profusely 
 cloathed with wood, which is crowded 
 with the almost innumerable works af 
 Colebrooke dale, and the incessant forges 
 of Broseley. A most abundant popula- 
 tion, with all the busy aspect of trade, 
 pervades this sooty region; vast manufac- 
 Q 
 
ZZ6 tllVERS AND COAST 
 
 torics of various kinds are dispersed every 
 where about it; and the river, filled with 
 vessels to transport its craft, rolls in 
 gloomy state between the livid glare of 
 furnaces and the deafening clangor of 
 their hammers, through a curious bridge 
 of cast iron, the produce of these works. 
 
 This is the only part of the course of 
 the Severn which can properly be called 
 picturesque, for as soon as it emerges from 
 the smoke of Colebrooke dale it forms 
 an enchanting object, as viewed in two 
 great reaches from ths terrace of Apley 
 Park, descending almost perpendicularly 
 in red rocks, and profusely cloathed with 
 wood from the very margin of the river 
 to its summit. The latter of these leads 
 to the singular town of Bridgnorth, which, 
 built on a high clifF, descends abruptly to 
 its antient bridge, and presents several 
 striking objects to the adjacent country 
 in the contrasted buildings of its old and 
 modern churches, and the leaning tower 
 of its castle. 
 
 The Severn after this relapses Into iti 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 2,2^ 
 
 former undistinguished sameness of ap- 
 pearance till it reaches Bewdley, a town 
 of some trade, with a handsome new stone 
 bridge, near which the late Sir Edward 
 Winnington most successfully embel- 
 lished a high cliff surrounding his modern 
 mansion with charming circular walks, 
 which command the river and the coun- 
 try very happily. A little lower, the 
 Severn is joined at Stourport by those nu- 
 merous canals, which bear all the com- 
 merce of Birmingham, Kidderminster, 
 and the various trading towns, of War- 
 wickshire, Staffordshire, and Worcester- 
 shire, this being their principal port, 
 where a considerable town has lately risen 
 into existence, and a bridge has been 
 thrown over the Severn, That great 
 river, crowded with barges, now rolls 
 through a pleasant country in a broad 
 and tranquil stream between high banks 
 to approach the elegant capital of Wor- 
 cestershire,whose magnificent stone bridge 
 crosses it as it divides that city from its 
 western suburb. It then traverses a part 
 
!ZZ8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 of the vale of Evesham, by Upton, to 
 Tewkesbury, between the fine ridge of 
 the Malvern hills, in front of which their 
 Gothic abbey stands distinguished, and 
 the bold eminence of Bredon ; after this, 
 buried within its banks, it almost disap- 
 pears in the midst of the vast plain of 
 Glocestershire. Here its temporary di- 
 vision into two channels takes place, one 
 of which washes the walls of Glocester, 
 now rising from the dullest of the west- 
 ern cities into a state of great commercial 
 importance, and likely to rival the port of 
 Bnstol by means of a canal of immense 
 magnitude running parallel with the 
 river, and capable of transporting large 
 vessels. The cathedrals of Worcester and 
 Glocester, with the numerous churches 
 of those cities, present fine objects to the 
 tourse of the Severn ; the tower of Glo- 
 cester, in particular, is greatly admired 
 for its chaste Gothic ornaments, and its 
 four pinnacles highly finished in fret 
 work. 
 
 When the Severn has re-united its two 
 
 7 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 229 
 
 branches, it is shortly joined by various 
 canals from the cloathing districts of 
 Glocestershire, a deUghtful tract of coun- 
 try, sinking into vallies within the Cot- 
 teswold hills, one of which unites it with 
 the Thames. It then becomes considerably 
 extended, and, swelling into a broad asstu- 
 ary, forms the principal ornament of its 
 expanded vale, no longer creeping through 
 the plain in invisible obscurity. The clifF 
 on which the church of Newnham is 
 finely situated, commands its immense 
 semicircle with admirable effect, while 
 the Cotteswold range, terminating in the 
 bold elevation of Stinchcombe Hill, 
 bounds the vale to the east, and the un- 
 dulating hills of the forest of Dean close 
 in upon it on the west, opening into va- 
 rious sweetly -picturesque glens. The 
 Severn, after this, studded with sails, and 
 gliding between a range of fine pastures 
 and villages, grows wider gradually till it 
 receives the Wye near Chepstow, and the 
 Avon from Somersetshire, thus forming 
 the Bristol Channel, 
 
230 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 The three remaining sources of the 
 Severn should be noticed in describing 
 its assistant rivers. These are called the 
 Bacho, the Glasslyn, and the Graylin, 
 rising likewise from small lakes under 
 Plinlimmon, and concurring with the 
 larger stream of the Hafren to form the 
 original Severn, before it reaches Llanid- 
 loes. Neither of these differ from com- 
 mon mountain torrents in their short 
 course, nor are the Vcrnieu from Llouvair 
 and the borders of Merionethshire, or 
 the Rhaidr from its celebrated cataract of 
 Pistill Rhaidr in the Bcrouln Mountains, 
 more considerable. The Tern, from the 
 north, falls into the Severn in Lord Ber- 
 wick's grounds, a little below Shrews- 
 bury, the Wort near Bridgenorth, and the 
 Stour below Bewdley, neither of which 
 are distinguishable for any thing, except 
 the trade attendant on the latter, and its 
 numerous parallel canals. 
 
 The Teme is a more considerable river, 
 rising in those mountains which divide 
 Radnorshire from Montgomeryshire, and 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 53 1 
 
 flowing eastward by Knighton, through 
 the pleasant vale of Brampton Bryan, 
 beneath the Camp of Caefar, by Mr. 
 Knight's animated creation surrounding 
 Downton Castle, to Oakley Park, once 
 celebrated for the Court of Comus, and 
 the splendid fragments of Ludlow Castle, 
 with its handsome town and high church. 
 The Teme then proceeds in a placid stream 
 beneath they Cley Hills to Tenbury, and 
 falls into the Severn, after traversing a ro- 
 mantic hollow, through which the road 
 from Bromyard to Worcester passes. 
 
 ' The Upper Avon brings a large influx 
 of waters from the north-east, rising on 
 the borders of Leicestershire, and adding 
 great beauty to the delightful territory 
 of Warwick Castle, as it flows beneath the 
 clifF on w^hich thofe lofty towxrs, pro- 
 jecting before the fine town and church 
 of Warwick, are situated. It then glides 
 through a charming country to the cele^ 
 brated spot of Stratford- on -Avon, the 
 Jbirth-place of our immortal Bard, and 
 the repository of his bones. From thence 
 
 ^4 
 
53^ RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 it traverses the great level of Worcester- 
 shire by Evesham, having received the 
 lesser Stour at Stratford, and turning to 
 the south at Perthshore meets the Severn 
 at the flourishing town of Tewkesbury. 
 
 The Chelt, the Stroud, the Cam, and 
 the little Avon, fall respectively into the 
 Severn after its junction with the Upper 
 Avon, but have no peculiar characters to 
 distinguish them, except that the Chelt's 
 small stream gives a name to Chelten- 
 ham, whose sulphureous well in the 
 centre of a well-planted walk fronting 
 its handsome spire, attracts the public 
 vvorld powerfully during the summer 
 months. The beauty of the surrounding 
 country, the fine form of its bold hills, 
 and the exquisite views commanded from 
 them, united with the delightful walks 
 surrounding Cheltenham in a plain rich 
 with foliage and luxuriant in verdure, 
 hold out strong temptations to those 
 whom nature can charm ; neither is art 
 deficient, every accommodation being 
 abundantly supplied, and its management 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 2^3 
 
 as a public place being superior to most 
 in England, in ease and regularity, through 
 the influence of some very amiable and 
 respectable families residing there, who 
 wisely stem the present fashionable tor- 
 rent of private parties. The other small 
 streams issue mostly from the cloathing 
 districts, and join the Severn below Glo- 
 cester, the Stroud accompanying its canal 
 from the town of that name, and the Itttle 
 Avon washing the memorable walls of 
 Berkeley Castle. 
 
 The Lower Avon rises in the hilly dis- 
 trict of North Wiltshire, bordering upon 
 Glocestershire, not far from Woo tton Bas- 
 set ; but various springs are assigned for 
 its origin as well as for that of the Thames, 
 frome whose numerous sources it is also 
 not far distant. Emerging from the hills, 
 it makes a compass to fall into the vale 
 which leads from Christian Malford to 
 Chippenham, after which its windings 
 are numerous from the hilly nature of 
 the country through which it passes, as it 
 advances through the^ cloathing district 
 
534 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 of Wiltshire, bordering upon that of So- 
 mersetshire, and for some space divides 
 the counties. Its course is at first south- 
 ward, and it makes a long compass by 
 the west towards the north, and then to 
 the west, at last encircling the city of 
 Bath on two sides, from whence it pur- 
 sues nearly the same direction, with fre- 
 quent meanders, to Bristol. It then in- 
 clines to the north-west, as it conveys the 
 abundant trade of that opulent city to 
 the Severn, by its conflux constituting ilie 
 Bristol Channel at King- Road. 
 
 This river is more remarkable for the ro- 
 mantic vallies it forms, and the rich coun- 
 try it winds through, than for its extent, 
 being generally buried within deep banks ; 
 its colour also is liable to be strongly affec- 
 ted by storms, those from Wiltshire tin- 
 ging it with white from a chalky soil, 
 and those from Somersetshire with red, 
 from the ochre prevailing in that county ; 
 but it naturally presents a dark and deep 
 stream, except where shallow^s intervene, 
 and is occasionally rapid. About Chip-. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIl!^. 235 
 
 penham the country is extremely beauti- 
 ful, and yet expanded, on the north of 
 which neat town, the seat of Harden- 
 Hewish occupies a charming position, the 
 friendly and hospitable virtues of whose 
 late owner, Joseph Coiborne, Esq. will 
 long be remembered gratefully in that 
 neighbourhood. Mr. Methuen's exten- 
 sive park and domain of Corsham lies 
 farther in the vale, and his fine old house 
 exhibits a striking and pleasing contrast 
 of the antient British architecture, with 
 two fronts of the Grecian, presenting at 
 the same time a most magnificent and 
 well-disposed collection of paintings. 
 Bowden hill rises boldly in front, crowned 
 with the splendid new-built seat of Mr. 
 Dickinson, and backed by Sir Edward 
 Baynton's thickly-wooded territory of 
 Spye Park, while in the vale the noble 
 remains of Laycock Abbey, the venerable 
 seat of the Talbot family, mark proudly 
 the level near the river. The towns of 
 Melksham and Bradford crowd its banks 
 now with the great population of a tra- 
 
236 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 ding country, and a canal has been stu* 
 diouslj formed to transport their com- 
 merce, the Avon not being capable of 
 navigation above Bath. Below Bradford, 
 joined by the Were from Trowbridge, the 
 Frcme from the venerable remains of 
 Farley Castle, and a brook from the inte- 
 rior of Somersetshire (near the fine hollow 
 of Limpley Stoke- flowing through Mr. 
 Smith's much - improved territory of 
 Combe-Hay, the Avon forms a deep and 
 hollow valley between high impending 
 hills, some of which are rocky, and others 
 profusely cloathed with wood ; abundant 
 villages are scattered along these emi- 
 nences, and some few seats are beautifully 
 dispersed, so as to command the river and 
 its striking accompaniments in perfection. 
 I must not here let a fear of the imputa- 
 tion of egotism or vanity restrain my 
 noticing the enchanting position of that 
 little territory which became mine by 
 descent, and was eminently improved by 
 the taste and attention bestowed on it 
 by my late most excellent father. Warley 
 
OF GREA.T BRITAIN. 2,2^^ 
 
 IS situated on a gentle eminence above 
 the Avon, beneath a rocky hill, thickly 
 cloathed with wood towards its base, and 
 descending almost perpendicularly to the 
 house, so that the public road is obliged 
 to be carried on a shelf above it. The 
 mansion, which is inconveniently irre- 
 gular in old buildings, with a modern 
 front, looks to the south, commanding a 
 valley of about four miles in length, the 
 boundary of w^hich is an extensive chain 
 of woods descending abruptly from the 
 borders of Wiltshire, and enriched with 
 much magnificent timber. A small, but 
 beautiful lawn, expands towards the river, 
 and fine clumps of oaks and elms mark 
 the various undulations of ground in front 
 of the woods, interspersed with cottages, 
 while the Avon, precipitating itself from 
 a broad basin down a wear in full front, 
 rolls beneath the slope in which the 
 gardens descend. The opposite hill rises 
 still more abruptly, terminating to the 
 north in some bold cliffs above Hampton, 
 which front the antient camp of Sates- 
 
2^8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 bury, impending over Bathcaston, and 
 the pleasantly-clumped grounds of Mr. 
 Whlttington on the more distant bor- 
 ders of Gloccstershire. About midway 
 in this ascent, immediately overlooking 
 Warley and the river, the pleasing village 
 of Claverton seems to hang suspended, 
 where its large Gothic mansion (re- 
 nowned in the civil wars) and its little 
 church, with the pyramidical tomb of 
 the late much-esteemed Mr. Allen, are 
 striking objecSs ; neither is its parsonage 
 less pleasing, the little grounds of which 
 are laid out in a truly classic taste by the 
 Rev. Mr. Graves, the friend and literary 
 rival of Shenstone, where that worthy 
 veteran closes the placid evening of his 
 days in the retirement he has so happily 
 embellished, deservedly beloved and re- 
 spected. Monkton Farley, a seat of the ^ 
 Duke of Somerset, occupies the opposite 
 height, enjoying extensive view^s over 
 Wiltshire, whose circular clump forms a 
 kind of land-mark to this tract of country. 
 T/ie Avo7iy emerging from these re- 
 
Of GREAT BRITAIN. 239 
 
 cesses beneath the eminence on which 
 the handsome village of Bathford is placed, 
 meets a stream issuing from Box on the 
 borders of Wiltshire, and passes beneath 
 the handsome mansion of Mr. Wiltshire 
 at Shockewick ; another small brook 
 joins it near that of Mr. Walters at Ba- 
 theaston, pervading the romantic valley 
 and hamlet of Catherine ; and a third de- 
 scendsto it fromthe heights of Lansdow^n, 
 memorable in history, to Lambridge by 
 Sw^ansvyrick, which village is reputed to 
 be the theatre of King Bladud's extraor- 
 dinary metamorphosis. Thus increased, 
 this river approaches the splendid city of 
 Bath, which, from its banks, appears to 
 rise from the venerable pile of its abbey ; 
 in a fuccession of fairy palaces to the 
 clouds. Prior Park, the elevated seat of 
 Lord Hawarden, overlooks it grandly 
 from the south ; the heights of Lansdown 
 rise boldly on the north ; and on the west, 
 at the diftance of three miles, a beautiful 
 know] seems to close the vallev, crowned 
 
240 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 with a handsome house, and embellifhcd 
 with extensive lawns and plantations by 
 the taste of the late Sir Casfar Hawkins, 
 its base being thickly wooded towards the 
 river. This delightful place is fronted by 
 the ascending groves of Newton Park, 
 the fine seat of Mr. Langton, which 
 crown the summit of one of the higheft 
 hills in this part of Somersetshire, below 
 which the extensive collieries of that 
 opulent county are established. A more 
 expanded vale succeeds, as the Avon 
 winds between the villages of Keynsham 
 and Bitton to Bristlington, where it be- 
 comes discoloured by the red mud im- 
 ported by the tide, and environed by nu- 
 merous superb villas belonging to the 
 Bristol merchants. That proud city ap- 
 pears on this side in all its splendour, 
 spreading over several high hills, (one of 
 which is crowned by Mr. Tyndall's hand- 
 some edifice and grounds of the Fort,) 
 -with its numerous towers and spires 
 starting up on all sides amidst incessant 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. :Z4.l 
 
 volumes of smoke from various glass- 
 houses and forges, and the abundant masts 
 of its shipping. Here is the last bridge 
 over the Avo?i, the Froome descending to 
 it in the centre of the city, crowded with 
 vessels, and forming its principal quay. 
 Numberless docks attend it afterwards to 
 the celebrated springs and buildings of 
 the Hotwells, placed beneath the im- 
 pending rocks of St. Vincent, projecting 
 from a hill overspread by the ornamented 
 village of Clifton, where houses of a su- 
 perior order are piled on each other in 
 wonderful profusion. The country here 
 is inexpressibly grand, commanding the 
 Severn backed by the mountains of South 
 Wales to the north-west, the immense 
 population of the Kingswood collieries 
 on the north-east, Lansdown with the 
 hills about Bath on the south-east, and 
 the rich plain of Somersetshire crossed 
 by the ridge of Dundery, with the lofty 
 tower, and the more distant range of 
 Mendip on the south-west. The Avo7i 
 R 
 
242 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 alone declines in beauty, becoming more 
 discoloured with mud as it emerges in a 
 contraded channel at low water from its 
 rocky barrier, beneath the fine groves of 
 Kingsweston, at Pill, and advances through 
 marshes to join the Severn, 
 

 i i' 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ;?43 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Great swell of the coast of Somersetshire be- 
 tween the Avon and the Axe — Rivers of 
 Somersetshire below the Avon — The 
 Yaw, The Axe, The Brue, The Par- 
 rett, and The Thone — Rivers of the 
 north of 'Devonshire — The Taw ^w^/The 
 Torridge, with their ports and basins of 
 Barnstaple and Biddeford — The Bude, 
 The Camel, and The Heyl, in the north 
 of Cornwall — Coast of Somersetshire, 
 Devonshire, and Cornwall, from the com- 
 7nencement of the Bristol Channel at 
 King- Road to the Land's End, andfrojn 
 thence to Plymouth Sound — Southern 
 rivers of Cornwall* — ^The Loe, The Hcl, 
 The Fal, The Free- Water, The Fowey, 
 and The Looe — The Tamar ofDevon^ 
 shire and Cornwall, terminating in Ply- 
 mouth Harbour and Sound, with its 
 R z 
 
244 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 various branches, viz. The Helscot, 
 The Tavy, The Tidi, and The ?\ym. 
 
 The coast of Somersetshire encircles 
 a wonderfully rich and beautiful plain, 
 between the Avon and the Axe, but being 
 in a manner insulated either by ranges of 
 hills or small streams, and mostly removed 
 from the great roads of the country, this 
 delightful tract has been fully explored 
 but by few, and travellers have not been 
 enough excited to visit it. This rich plain 
 is both encircled and intersected by lofty 
 hills ; Leigh Down extending in an irre- 
 gular and waving line towards the Avo7i 
 and the coast, Dundery Hill, crowned 
 with its high tower, and Backwell hill 
 forming grand intermediate ridges, while 
 the great range of Mendip skirts the 
 western horizon with a magnificent back 
 ground. Numerous and most beautiful 
 are the villages dispersed about this happy 
 district, in which Brockley Combe ex- 
 hibits a picturesque dell and stream not 
 unlike those of Derbyshire ; and Barrow^ 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN* 045 
 
 Court stands finely exalted in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the pleasant seats of Bourton, 
 Walton, and various others, within a short 
 distance of Bristol. The views also from 
 Dundery hill, Leigh Down, and the se- 
 veral eminences, are uncommonly striking, 
 expanding over the course of the Avon, 
 the Sever?t, the mountains of Wales, and 
 the sea; marshes at length intervene be- 
 tween this cultivated tract and the coast, 
 but several neat villages advance to it un- 
 der the impending ridge of the Mendip 
 hills, of which Weston Super Mare is most 
 considerable. 
 
 The Yaw is the first river of any note 
 in this district, below the small stream, 
 w^hich, rising under Leigh Down, and 
 passing through Bourton, pervades the 
 sweet hollow of Brockley Combe, and 
 reaches the sea in two channels. The 
 Yaw finds its origin on the eastern side 
 of the Mendip hills, flowing through this 
 rich territory in a north-west direction to 
 the Bristol Channel. Its course is short, 
 and its size not considerable, but the hills 
 
 R3 
 
54^ KtrERS AND COAST 
 
 which encompass it may boast much 
 grandeur, and the town of Wrington, 
 with a handsome church, decorates its 
 banks. 
 
 The Axe rises in two small branches 
 on the western side of the Mcndip hills, 
 one of which has its source in the cavern 
 called Wokcy Hole, which is a natural 
 perforation of the rock, not unlike those 
 50 much celebrated in Derbyshire, pro- 
 vided also with its witch and its legen- 
 dary tale. Its short course is to the north- 
 west, being joined by a little stream 
 issuing from the stupendous cliffs of Ched- 
 dar in the Mendip hills. The little town 
 of Axbridge stands near the point where 
 the Axe is traversed by the western road 
 from Bristol at Cross, after which it winds 
 through a tract of marshes to fall into the 
 Bristol Channel, 
 
 The Brue rises just within the west- 
 ern border of Wiltshire, flowing first to 
 the south-west, then to the north-west, 
 and meeting the Bristol Channel near the 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 2,^J 
 
 mouth of the Parrett in the Bay of Bridg" 
 water. 
 
 The delightful scenery of Sir Richard 
 Hoare's proud territory of Stourhead 
 covers all the hills above the source of 
 this stream, to which the clear stream 
 issuing from the Urn of the Stour, (one of 
 the six sources of that fine Dorsetshire 
 river,) in the grotto of the nymph of 
 those grounds, adds its tribute, while the 
 lofty tower erected on the spot where 
 Alfred fixed his standard overlooks the 
 vast plain through which the Brue winds 
 undistinguished. Long-Leat, the splen- 
 did seat of the Marquis of Bath, (not un- 
 like those co-temporary grand edifices of 
 Burghley, Hatfield, and Audley-End,) 
 covers a great portion of these fine hills 
 of Wiltshire, in whose ornamented 
 grounds the Frome finds its origin ; Maid- 
 en Bradley also, a respectable seat of the 
 Duke of Somerset, occupies another por- 
 tion of the same range, very boldly marked 
 by Knowls; and Lordllchester's fine place 
 of Redlynch lies in the vale near the Bnie, 
 
 R4 
 
24-8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 which passing its town of Bruton, and 
 washing the noble remains of Glaston- 
 bury Abbey, becomes lost at last in those 
 extensive marshes that approach the Bris- 
 tol Cha7ineL 
 
 TheParrett and The Thone form 
 their junction near the centre of Somer- 
 setshire, the former flowing from the 
 south-east by Crewkherne and the bor- 
 ders of Dorsetshire, and the latter rising 
 in the Quantox hills in the south-west 
 near Wyvescombe, after which it makes 
 a considerable compass to the south, 
 pursuing at last a north-east direction 
 from a little below Wellington to Taun- 
 ton and its junction with the Parrett, 
 whose course it assumes, together with 
 its name, as they traverse the extensive 
 marsh of Sedgmoor to Bridgwater Bay, 
 
 Neither of these rivers, nor the Yeo 
 which joins the Parrett, have strong fea- 
 tures, but all flow through a populous 
 country. The handsome county town of 
 Taunton, in the midst of one of the rich- 
 est vales of England, exalts its lofty and 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIX. 549 
 
 ornamented Gothic tower above theThoney 
 and the elegant grounds of Hestercombe, 
 formed by the taste of the late Mr. Bam- 
 fylde, command it with the best effect. 
 Bridgewater, the port of these united 
 streams, may boast a- considerable portion 
 of trade, with a newly- constructed iron 
 bridge of curious mechanism ; the fine 
 grounds of Halswell, formed by the late 
 Sir Charles Tynte, and Enmore Castle, 
 the seat of Lord Egmont, are near this 
 town, below which the Parrett, being na- 
 vigable, creeps in a sluggish and muddy 
 sti;cam to form a bay in the Bristol Chan- 
 nel, nearly opposite to Cardiffe in Gla- 
 morganshire. 
 
 The Taw axd The Torridge. — 
 These are the only rivers of note on the 
 northern coast of Devonshire, contribut- 
 ing to form the great bay of Barnstaple 
 and Biddeford, on the broad part of the 
 Bristol Channel, opposed to Tenby in 
 Pembrokeshire. 
 
 The Taw finds its source in the central 
 mountains of Dart-moor in Devonshire, 
 
j^5C> RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 flowing northward with various curves 
 till it nearly reaches Chumleigh, and then 
 inclining a little to the west, increased 
 by the Moule from South Moneton to 
 Barnstaple, from whence (making a short 
 circle in its course) it turns directly west- 
 ward to meet the Torridge. 
 
 The Torridge rises close to the head of 
 the Tamar near the border of the northern 
 part of Cornwall, forming the district of 
 Stratton ; its course is eastward, some- 
 what inclined to the south at first, from 
 which it makes a curve to the north- 
 west below Sheepwash, and increased by 
 the Okement from the park and castle of 
 Okehampton, pursues a direction varying 
 little from due north by Torrington to 
 Biddeford and its junction with the Taw, 
 Both streams incline to the north-west to 
 find their mouth, where the Bristol Chan- 
 7iel loses itself in the open sea. 
 
 The country through which these 
 rivers flow is populous and well culti- 
 vated, but abounding in successive sheep 
 hills, and hollow dales, beyond any other 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIX. 2^1 
 
 in England. Sir Bourchier Wrey's fine 
 seat of Tawstock graces the descent of 
 the Taw to Barnstaple, and its great basin 
 (afterwards uniting with that of the Tor- 
 ridge from Biddeford) presents a beautiful 
 object to the extensive and well- managed 
 groimds belonging to the stately mansion 
 of that place, which overlooks great part 
 of the northern bay of Devon and these 
 bold sheets of water, uniting with it, to- 
 gether with their towns, across a rich and 
 populous vale. Barnstaple is a place of 
 considerable trade, with a handsome pub- 
 lic walk, and the Taw is navigable for 
 large vessels from thence to its mouth. 
 The Torridge also admits ships of some 
 size at Biddeford, where a long and narrow 
 stone bridge crosses it to that picturesque 
 town, whose whitened buildings, mixed 
 with wood, cover the side of a high hill. 
 
 The Bude, The Camel, and The 
 Heyl, are the only rivers of note in the 
 north of Cornwall, which is also inter- 
 sected by various inconsiderable streams, 
 the Bude penetrating part of the district 
 7 
 
2^Z RIV£RS AND COAST 
 
 of Stratton, and the Camel rising near the 
 rocky hills of Rhuittcr in the north-east; 
 after which it passes by Camelford in a 
 southern direftion, a httle inclined to the 
 west, and then turning with a great com- 
 pass below Bodmin almost to the north, 
 it flows by Wade's Bridge into the great 
 harbour of Padstowe, whose mouth at 
 last inclines to the west. TheHeyl\ course 
 is at first westward through the lower 
 part of Cornwall to St. Hillary, almost 
 insulating the extreme end of that county, 
 from whence, turning northward, it forms 
 a noble aestuary opening into a large bay, 
 on the western side of which, the port of 
 St. Ives, to which the bay owes a name, 
 is situated. Padstowe on the Camel is a 
 port of greater importance, and its bay 
 much more considerable, but neither of 
 these rivers have any other distinguishing 
 features. 
 
 The western coast of England may be 
 said to begin, where the shipping oi King- 
 Road, at the junction of the Lower Avoti 
 with the Severn properly constitutes that 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. !^^^ 
 
 great asstuary of the Bristol Channel, a 
 little below the opposite conflux of the 
 Wye from Wales, though some navigators 
 do not allow it that title till it reaches 
 the islands called the Holmes near Car- 
 diffe. The Somersetshire shore stretches 
 out at first in the broad plain before de- 
 scribed, bordered by marshes, while the 
 undulating range of the Mendip hills, 
 covered with fern and abounding in 
 mines, closes the horizon, as it advances 
 through the country from the borders of 
 Wiltshire, above the pleasant city of 
 Wells with its neat Cathedral, towards 
 the great expanse of water below Ax- 
 bridge. 
 
 Great marshes afterwards spread far 
 into the country, of w^hich the rich level 
 of Sedgmoor is the most considerable, 
 and the coast continues chiefly level till 
 the waving line of the Quantox hills in 
 the south-west opposes the parallel ridge 
 of the Mendip in the north- east, between 
 which the insulated terrace of Powlett, 
 or Polden Hill, exalts itself, traversed 
 
254 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 beautifully by one of the western roads 
 from Bath to Bridgwater. Two great 
 plains are thus formed, through the first 
 of which the Brtie descends by the mag- 
 nificent pile of Glastonbury , whose conic 
 hill, crowned with the tower of its Torr, 
 is visible at a vast distance ; the latter 
 expanse comprehends the vale of Taun- 
 ton Dean, one of the richest in the west 
 of England, between the ranges of its 
 high impending barriers. The Parrett 
 and Thone, united, pass through this ter- 
 ritory to form the Bay of Bridgwater, to 
 which that of M'mehead succeeds, where 
 the majestic pile of Dunster Castle ap- 
 pears proudly elevated on a high mount 
 above its town. This delightful spot has 
 been much improved by the taste of its 
 owner Mr. Luttrell, with the numerous 
 plantations of whose park many of the 
 neighbouring hills are covered, one of 
 w^hich is marked by a lofty but un- 
 finished tower. This part of the Somer- 
 setshire coast, together with that of De- 
 vonshire which soon joins it, may be 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 555 
 
 called mountainous, abounding in dark 
 cliffs and rocky hollows, incessantly fol- 
 lowing each other, of which the valley 
 of Stones, near Linton, is an extraordi- 
 nary specimen ; a few romantic streams 
 (but none of any note) descend through 
 these clefts, and the towns of Ilfracomb 
 and Comb Martin occupy bold positions 
 on the edge of the sea, the former of 
 which (being in Devonshire) is resorted 
 to as a bathing-place from the grandeur 
 of its surrounding scenery. The shore of 
 Glamorganshire, Caermarthenshire, and 
 Pembrokeshire, fronts these towns across 
 the Bristol Channel, which is here become 
 almost an open sea ; while that of De- 
 vonshire deeply indents the country, 
 forming the bays of Barnstaple and Bid- 
 deford, and terminates in the bold point 
 of Hartland, in front of Lundy Island, 
 and a little beyond the singular village of 
 Clovelly, which descends in precipitous 
 stages through a rocky hollow to the sea. 
 The Devonshire coast now inclines to 
 the south, soon uniting with that of 
 
256 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Cornwall, bounding there the rich and 
 level district of Stratton ; afterw hich, high 
 hills advance again before Camelford, en- 
 closing the plain and villages of Bossineo 
 and Bossicastle, where the fragments of 
 Tintagel Castle occupy a clifF which 
 stretches out far into the sea, exhibiting 
 the curious, though imperfect, remains 
 of our British King Arthur's palace. The 
 coast turns more and more westward 
 from the south, after it has formed the 
 bay and harbour of Padstow at the mouth 
 of the Camely being indented at last by the 
 semicircular bay of St, Ives, at the extre- 
 mity of the broad basin formed by the 
 HeyL Thus is the extreme western point 
 of Cornwall almost insulated, in the same 
 manner with the northern peninsula of 
 Scotland, the two seas advancing towards 
 each other, and large inland streams di- 
 viding the country so as almost to join 
 them. The httle port of St. Ives graces 
 its bay, after which, the coast descends 
 in a south-west direction till it makes its 
 grand and final compass by the south 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 2^y 
 
 towards the east, round the Land's End, 
 enclosing a naked tract of country, where 
 the melancholy villages of Senan and 
 St. Buryen exhibit the last poor habita- 
 tions of England to the Atlantic ocean, 
 whose waves, dashing against the black 
 tocks which rise in piles around this 
 dreary peninsula, roll afterwards with un- 
 interrupted force towards the continent 
 of America. 
 
 The islands of Scilly, so dangerous to 
 the navigation of this sea and the entrance 
 of The English Channel, are visible from 
 the point of the Land's End, where a 
 rock at a small distance from the shore 
 is furnished with a light-house of a very 
 curious construction for the direction of 
 mariners. After compassing this extra- 
 ordinary point, the Cornish shore advances 
 Southward, with some swells to the east, 
 and presently expands itself into the ca- 
 pacious bay of St. Michael, in the centre 
 of which rises a singular insulated rock. 
 Crowned with the striking remains of an 
 abbey, which was formerly dedicated to 
 
258 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 that saint. Sir John St. Aubyn, the 
 proprietor, has converted this into a tem- 
 porary dwclUng, adding where it was 
 necessary to make the pile habitable, and 
 uniting the antient style of building with 
 the modern very judiciously. St. Mi- 
 cha-el's Abbey thus presents a singular 
 mansion, highly exalted on a stupendous 
 clifF, curiously overhanging the sea in 
 perpendicular rocks, and commanding in 
 great perfeftion the strong features of its 
 appropriate bay. Thefe are not less bold 
 than the rest of the Cornish coast, but 
 they are happily intermixed with a very 
 interesting display of cultivation, pastures, 
 woods, and villages, among which the 
 handsome town of Penzance overspreads 
 an eminence on the west above the sea, 
 backed by some fine groves; and tLe little 
 port of Merazion, or Market Jew, occu- 
 pies the centre of the bay in the north, 
 while the Lizzard Point closes the view 
 towards the south-cast at a considerable 
 distance. Thus is this extraordinary build- 
 ing of St. Michael's Abbey situated, being 
 
OF GREAT BRITAm. 2^9 
 
 approachable at low water from Mcra- 
 ziori only by land, but completely msu- 
 lated by every flow of the tide ; it is also 
 very difficult of access from the rugged 
 and winding flight of steps by which 
 alone its rock can be surmounted. 
 
 The Lizzard Point stretches out fur- 
 ther to the south than any part of the 
 western coast of England, which after- 
 wards inclining for a while in a north- 
 east direction, and turning then irregu- 
 larly towards the east, fronting to the 
 south, becomes indented throughout 
 Cornwall to the southern Horn of the 
 Ramshead, which opposes Devonshire, 
 with various bays, each of which are fed 
 by their rivers. Many of these basins 
 strongly resemble that of Milford Haven 
 in Pembrokeshire, the streams which 
 supply them being small, and their 
 curving branches intersefting the country 
 for a considerable distance. The aestua- 
 ries of the Loe and the Hel are the first of 
 these, and that which forms the harbour 
 of Falmouth is much larger; those of 
 S2 
 
:26a RIVERS and coast 
 
 the Fowey and the Looe follow in succes- 
 sion, that of the Tamar being the last and 
 most important, where the harbour and 
 sound of Plymouth are formed between 
 the shores of Cornwall and Devonshire 
 The detail of the Cornish rivers on this 
 side of the country, discharging them- 
 selves into the English Channel, its as fol- 
 lows, from the Land's End, 
 
 The Loe and The Hel descend 
 from the town of Helstone in two differ- 
 ent directions to the sea, the former 
 flowing southward to St. MichaeFs Bay, 
 and the latter eastward to the gulph in 
 which the F^/ opens. The aestuaries alone 
 of these streams are memorable, being 
 wide, and in some parts wooded. 
 
 The Fal, though but a small river 
 in its origin, is the most considerable in 
 the central parts of Cornwall, rising not 
 far from St. Columb, and swelling into 
 a large basin near Truro, to which place 
 one of its curving branches extends. 
 
 Truro is Qnc of the handsomest towns 
 in the west of England, though by no 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. :?6l 
 
 means la^'ge, and is the mart of those 
 abundant Stannaries, which enrich, and 
 deface at the same time, great part of 
 Cornwall, despoiling the soil of its ver- 
 dure, and giving it the arid appearance 
 of being burnt with fire. These winding 
 arms of the Fal, one of which is fed by 
 the Free-water from Gram pound, unite 
 at last in the general reservoir of a capa- 
 cious basin, the town of Penrhyn standing 
 at the head of one, and the port of Fal- 
 mouth nearer its mouth, below which, 
 the rock, crowned with the fortress of 
 Pendennis Castle, stretches out into the 
 sea, fronting the opposite town of St. 
 Just, at the mouth of the bay. Falmouth 
 is a place of consequence, being the sta- 
 tion from whence our packets sail to 
 Lisbon, but its streets are both steep and 
 narrow, and rendered offensive by the 
 putrid oil exhaling from the exposure of 
 the fish called pilchards, in heaps for 
 drying ; this peculiar fishery is regulated 
 by a code of particular laws and customs, 
 S3 
 
26:Z RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 both employing and enriching many on 
 this coast. 
 
 The Fowey and The Looe are the 
 next rivers in succession ; two inconsi- 
 derable streams descending by St. Austle 
 and St. Blazey to the sea. The Fowey 
 rises high in Cornwall in a downish tract 
 between Bodmin and Launccston, flow- 
 ing at first southward, and then making 
 a great compass by the west to reach 
 Lest with iel, soon after w^hich it expands 
 into a broad basin inclining to the south, 
 and joined by several w^inding branches, 
 'issuing from small creeks. It traverses 
 some of the pleasant parts of Cornwall, 
 forming a sweet valley above Lestwithiel, 
 in which the pleasing remains of Restor- 
 mel Abbey, finely surrounded with wood, 
 grace a gentleman's grounds, which are 
 well laid out. The Looe is composed o* 
 two branches, one of which descends 
 from Leskard, both uniting where the 
 port of Looe is situated near their mouth, 
 but having no singular features. 
 
 The Tamar is one of the most con^ 
 
I 
 
 OF GREAT BRITAIN". 263 
 
 siderable rivers In the west of England, 
 rising in the northern point of the district 
 of ^tratton in Cornwall, (not far from the 
 source of the Torridge, which flows to 
 the northern sea by Biddeford,) and di- 
 tiding for a long distance Cornwall from 
 Devonshire. The Tamar\ course is mostly 
 southward, with some little variations, to 
 the vicinage of Launceston ; it then in- 
 clines somewhat to the east till its junc- 
 tion takes place, first with the Lyd from 
 its cataract, wooded dell, and rocky bridge 
 of Lydford, and then wdth the Tavy from 
 Tavistock, after which that great asstu- 
 ary is formed, which descending to the 
 south in several bold sv^eeps from Salt- 
 Ash, incloses the dock of Plymouth, and 
 afterwards co-operates with the Plym to 
 create that large body of water, which 
 constitutes Plymouth Sound, thus com- 
 municatins: with the sea. 
 
 The Tamar abounds in fine features, 
 and exccUs in a majestic outline, occa- 
 sionally attended with rocks, woods, and 
 the usual appendages of romantic beauty. 
 
 S4 
 
564 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Launceston, the county town of Corn- 
 wall, occupies a fine eminence on the 
 west, above its steep banks, (which are 
 there thickly fringed with wood,) re- 
 markable for the lofty mount which forms 
 the keep of its castle, and divided from 
 Newport by the little river Atterry. Some- 
 what above, the TVerrington descends to 
 the Tamar from the north-west, flowing 
 through the Duke of Northumberland's 
 pleasant park of Werrington. On the 
 Cornish side, a little below Tavistock, 
 Cultcal, a curious ol;J seat of Lord Edge- 
 cumbe, exhibits the wild beauties of tlu 
 Tamar in great perfedion, and contrasts 
 delightfully his ornamented and extended 
 territory of Mount Edgecumbe. The 
 Tavy, from Tavistock in the north-east, 
 soon afterwards joins the lamar, (which 
 is still further increased by the Lynher, 
 from Callington, and the Tidi, from St. 
 Germans on the Cornish side,) and in- 
 creasing in importance, as the tide more 
 ^nd more influences it, soon becomes 
 
t 
 
 OF GREAT BRITAIN. 565 
 
 crowded with vessels, and stretches out 
 in broad curving branches, which inter- 
 sect the country on each side. At length, 
 its receding shores form the winding ba- 
 sin of Plymouth Harbour, between the 
 new town created by its Dock, and the 
 Cornish Borough of Salt- Ash, presenting 
 an assemblage of objects in its splendid 
 exhibition of that grand repository of the 
 British navy, which is difficult to be de- 
 scribed, and no where to be matched, 
 
 J he Plym here adds its tributary waters 
 to the Tamar, rising on the west side of 
 Dartmoor, and inclining to the south- 
 west, till it forms a large basin beneath 
 the old town of Plymouth, and the fine 
 woods and plantations surrounding Sal- 
 terham, the seat of Lord Boringdon. 
 Here is constituted a commodious haven 
 for the numerous merchant vessels which 
 come to Plymouth, separated from the 
 greater bay filled by the men of war in 
 the Tamar. The conflux of these two 
 branches with the sea produces that 
 
266 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 noble road for shipping called the Sound 
 of Plymouth, between Cornwall and De- 
 vonshire, opening to the south-east in 
 front of that distant rock in the English 
 Channely on which the famous light-house 
 of Eddistone has at last been succesfully 
 constructed, after various failures. The 
 high grounds extending from the pro- 
 montory of the Ram's Head defend this 
 expanse of water from the west, above 
 which Maker Tower exalts itself, from 
 whence signals are hoisted relating to 
 vessels appearing in the channel. The 
 enchanting groves, lawns, and plantations 
 of Mount Edgcumbc, clothe the sides 
 of this noble eminence with the utmost 
 grandeur and beauty with w^hich nature 
 and art can be attended, and the choicest 
 evergreens flourish here almost sponta- 
 neously, with a degree of verdure which 
 is indescribable. Thus is formed a ter- 
 restrial paradise in the midst of the busi- 
 est naval display, which commands most 
 happily the grand objects of the town. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 567 
 
 dock, garrison, and hospitals, of Ply- 
 mouth and Stonehouse, with the basins 
 of the Tamar and the Plym, crowded 
 with shipping, and the greater bay of 
 Plymouth Sound, varied w^ith alternate 
 striking views over sea and land. 
 

 Z68 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Rivers of Devonshire eastward of the Ta- 
 mar — ^The Yealme, Erme, and Aven — 
 ^The Dart, The Telgn, The Ex, The 
 Otter, The Syd, and the Axe — Rivers 
 of Dorsetshire — The Char, The Eype, 
 The Wey, The Froome, ajtd the 
 Stoure — The Hampshire and Wilt- 
 shire Avon — ^The Anton, The Test, 
 and the Itchin, unitijig at last to form 
 The Southampton River. 
 
 The Yealme, Erme, and Aven, 
 are three inconsiderable rivers, rising in 
 Dartmoor, and reaching the sea in the 
 southern projection of Devonshire coast. 
 The pleasant spot and Inn of Ivy-Bridge, 
 on the great western road to Plymouth, 
 are found on the banks oi the Erme, which 
 is there a mountain torrent. The course 
 of all these rivers is southward, a little 
 
^ 
 
=:<> 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. rjSp 
 
 inclined to the west, and each has a con- 
 siderable asstuary. 
 
 The Dart originates in the moun- 
 tainous region of Dartmoor, descending 
 first southward, and then inclining con- 
 fiderably to the east, before it quits that 
 rude district ; its winding course is after- 
 wards to the south-east, as it passes Tot^ 
 ness, and falls into the sea between Dart- 
 mouth and Kings weare. 
 
 The Dart is the principal of all those 
 rivers that are produced by the rocky 
 range of Dartmoor in the centre of De- 
 vonshire, which in wildness at least, 
 though not in height or extent, may 
 emulate most of the mountainous tracts 
 of Wales or Scotland, and can display a 
 stronger contrast to the extraordinary fer- 
 tility and riches of the surrounding dis- 
 tricts, than thofe countries are generally 
 capable of exhibiting. Rapidity is its 
 first characteristic, and this quality it re- 
 tains long after it leaves those mountains 
 which enclose its source, as it descends 
 into the rich plains of the southern part 
 
 1 
 
Z^O RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 of Devonshire. A little west of* Ashbuf- 
 ton it forms a charming valley, and flows 
 in placid beauty beneath the high hill, 
 which is finely distinguished by the castle 
 and church of Totness. Here the Dart 
 is crossed by its last bridge, and, soon af- 
 terwards receiving the tide, it rolls in a 
 majestic stream between bold hills covered 
 with cultivation, woods, and villages, 
 disclosing new beauties at every curve, 
 and presenting a grand object to the ad- 
 jacent country, varied perpetually both 
 in its form and attendant features. The 
 noble ruin of Berry Pomeroy Castle, an 
 old seat of the Duke of Somerset, occu- 
 pies an eminence on the east, at some 
 distance from the river, below which a 
 very picturesque rivulet descends through 
 a dark winding dell, adding much to the 
 solemnity and beauty of the fcene, where 
 the deep gloom of the overhanging wood, 
 which encircles several majestic towers 
 cloathed with ivy, inspires that kind of 
 awful dignity which seems suited to the 
 most romantic periods of our anticnt 
 
' OF GREAT BRITAIN. J27I 
 
 history. The eminences which enclose 
 the channel of the Dart become at last 
 almost mountainous, forming on the west 
 a barrier to the southern peninsula of 
 Devonshire, between that river and the 
 Tamar, and on the east to the Road of 
 Torbaj, while the river, winding between 
 their wooded and rocky bases, passes the 
 very striking position occupied by the 
 hamlet of Kingsweare on its eastern bank, 
 and the singularly irregular town of Dart- 
 mouth on its western, the whitened 
 fronts of whose houses, built in stages 
 over each other, and beautifully inter- 
 spersed with wood and rock, form a curious 
 assemblage of interesting objects. The 
 ivied walls of Dartmouth Castle, with its 
 rustic spire, starting out from beneath a 
 bold rocky hill, close the prospect with 
 great majesty, and strongly mark the 
 proud exit of the Dart towards the sea. 
 
 The Teign is the most eastern of all 
 the Devonshire rivers, which take their 
 rise in Dartm.oor ; its principal source is 
 found near the village of Chegford on the 
 
272 RIVERS AX^ COAST 
 
 eastern side of that wild district^ not far 
 from Moreton-Hampstead. Its course is 
 at first eastward, inclining afterwards to 
 the south till it reaches Chudleigh, a 
 little below which place, the smaller and 
 and more western branch joins it ; both 
 thus united, form a broad, but short 
 sestuary, inclining to the east, which ter- 
 minates in the bay of Teignmouth. 
 
 No peculiar character marks either of 
 these streams before their union, but the 
 large basin they at last form is a very 
 striking object, filling the whole space of 
 a winding valley betwxen the protruding 
 eminences, each side of which is beauti- 
 fully interspersed with woods, pastures, 
 and villages. Teignmouth is one of the 
 plcasantest bathing places on this coast, 
 and the bold red rock, which forms the 
 western barrier of the Teign on its exit 
 into the large bay at its mouth, exhibits 
 a grand object, variegated with stripes 
 of green herbage, and protruding its massy- 
 pile into the sea. 
 
 The Ex, rising in the wild hills of 
 
OF GREAT BRITAI?7. ^y^ 
 
 Ex-Moor in the western corner of Somer- 
 setshire, inclines first to the south east, 
 but afterwards falUng into a deep valley 
 flows southward, a little inclined towards 
 the west, to Exeter, from whence it 
 again pursues a line, bearing somewhat to 
 the east from the south, as it forms a . 
 grand ccstuary to Exmouth, where it 
 meets the sea. 
 
 The Ex is a most beautiful river, rapid 
 in its origin, but soon disporting itself in 
 a tranquil stream amidst verdant mea- 
 dows, and surrounded by a well -culti- 
 vated district. Its descent from its moun- 
 tainous origin is curiously featured, and 
 its change of character, from a furious 
 torrent to a placid rivulet, so abrupt as to 
 require a peculiar description. Cleaving 
 a passage through the wild hills, which 
 form the ridge above Minehead, and the 
 barrier between the two seas, the Ex 
 insinuates itself imperceptibly into an 
 alpine valley betw^een eminences richly 
 cloathed with wood, which in some parts 
 feather down to the very margin of the 
 T 
 
2/4 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 stream, and in others just leave room far 
 a slip of the most verdant meadow, the 
 heights above being strongly marked and 
 varied by thick groves and luxuriant in- 
 closures. Another parallel valley (di- 
 vided from that of the Ex by a long wav- 
 ing ridge, and watered by a similar stream 
 called the Bark, which afterwards joins 
 it) is still superior in its features, in which 
 the picturesque little town of Dulverton 
 occupies a charming position, overlooked 
 sweetly by the noble groves and swelling 
 lawns of the park encompassing the de- 
 llgtful seat of Lady Harriet Ackland. This 
 place covers the side of the almost-insu- 
 lated ridge which divides the Ex from its 
 sister and tributary stream, but it is dif- 
 ficult to paint the efFeft of two fine pa- 
 rallel vallies so constituted, and surrounded 
 by such a magnificent outline, w^hen 
 viewed from any of the neighbouring 
 heights, which fully command them 
 both. 
 
 After the junction of these two streams,, 
 a little above Ex-bridge, the river enters 
 I 
 
or GREAT BRITAIN. ^75 
 
 Devonshire, and passing near Bampton, 
 sinks into a rich wooded vale near the 
 pleasant town of Tiverton, where the 
 Loman joins it from the north-east bor- 
 der towards Somersetshire. The Creedy, 
 from Crediton in the north-west, and the 
 Culm, from Cullumpton in the north- 
 east, soon afterwards add their waters to 
 the Ex, when the vale expanding, opens 
 into a wonderfully rich plain, encircled 
 by lofty and well-wooded hills. The 
 proud city of Exeter occupies a high 
 eminence in the centre of this district, 
 crowned with its great cathedral, and 
 traversed by its high street, which de- 
 scends gradually to its bridge, where the 
 river receives large vessels. 
 
 It then flows through a fine range of 
 enamelled meadows to Topsham, which 
 may be called its port, and widening 
 greatly as it receives the tide, pass^- be- 
 neath the high towers and ornamented 
 grounds of Powderham Castle, the seat 
 of Lord Courtenay, behind which, an 
 amphitheatre of fine hills rises towards 
 
2^6 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 the west, cloathed with the plantations 
 of Lord Clifford at Ugbrook, and Lord 
 Lisburne at Mam-Head. Powdcrham 
 Castle commands the Ex finely, and its 
 park is richly wooded, but the situation 
 disappointed my expectation, being in a 
 low and marshy ground; its venerable 
 walls also are encrusted and defaced by 
 a rough coat of plaster miserably white- 
 w^ashed, and the internal decorations seem 
 more suitable to an Asiatic palace than 
 the antient seat of an English nobleman. 
 Star-Point stretches out far here into the 
 aestuary of the Ex, where it disembogues 
 itself into the sea beneath the port of Ex- 
 mouth, which, covering the side of a hill 
 with ranges of handsome houses, has 
 long been a well -frequented bathing 
 place. 
 
 The Otter, The Syd, and The 
 Axe, are the three remaining rivers of 
 Devonshire on the southern coast, east- 
 ward of ///<? Ex, each of them rising near 
 the border of Somersetshire, and flowing 
 mostly southward. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. zyj 
 
 They are not considerable streams, but 
 all form deep vallles between very high 
 impending hills. The extraordinary beauty 
 of ^ydmouth has, been deservedly ad- 
 mired, placed in a well- wooded and po- 
 pulous amphitheatre of high grounds, 
 which terminate towards the sea in red 
 rocks, variegated with green like those of 
 Teignmouth. The rural aspect of this 
 place, together with its mild air and 
 sheltered position, have rendered it the 
 resort of much company, and it may now 
 aspire to the fame of a favoured public 
 place, attended with every convenience. 
 
 The Char, The Eype, and The 
 Wey, are the three rivers of Dorsetshire, 
 bordering upon Devonshire, but none of 
 them are particularly distinguished by 
 the features of landscape, the country 
 through which they flow being a dreary 
 compound of bare heaths and downs, in- 
 tersected with marshes, and scantily pro- 
 vided with villages. That celebrated 
 bathing-place, which is formed by the 
 combined towns of Mclcolm Regis and 
 
 T3 
 
2yS RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Weymouth, graces the exit of the Wey to 
 the sea, remarkable for its grand semicir- 
 cular beach, and its excellent, as well as 
 level, sands. 7 hese advantages, and the 
 preference given to this place by the 
 Royal Family, have raised it into high 
 consideration, splendid rows of houses 
 being formed, with a superb esplanade 
 in front of them towards the coast, for a 
 great extent, where they command the 
 w^hole of the bay, bounded by great chalky 
 cliffs, and backed by the downs of Dor- 
 setshire. The pier of Weymouth stretches 
 out beneath an opposite rock, crowned 
 with its garrison, which defends the har- 
 bour from the south and wxst winds, 
 offering a convenient refuge to shipping, 
 and employing no small portion of trade. 
 The village and high church of Wykc 
 Regis occupy the highest point of this 
 ridge of hills on the west, immediately 
 opposed to the vast protruding mass of 
 Portland Island. Happily situated on an 
 elevation in the descent to the shore, and 
 environed by some admirably growing 
 
OF G^EAT BRITAIN. zyg 
 
 plantations, (which have a double effect 
 in the midst of so bare a country,) the 
 elegant villa of Mrs. Buxton rises in all 
 the pride of Grecian architecture. To 
 this place numbers are attracted by the 
 beauty of the spot, and its command of 
 the bold outline of the coast, but more 
 by the internal charms of society which 
 it exhibits, and the hospitality of its 
 worthy owner. 
 
 The Char, and the Eype, which come 
 in succession before the Wey, have no 
 striking points, except that Charmouth, 
 at the exit of the former, on the great 
 western road, is preferred by some as a 
 bathing place to Lyme, which is far more 
 beautifully situated in its neighbourhood ; 
 the Eype, joined by the Brit from Bemin- 
 ster, and another stream westward of it, 
 falls into the sea in Bridport harbour, a 
 few miles below that town. These rivers 
 all descend from the Dorsetshire Downs, 
 and their course is nearly southward. 
 
 The Froome maybe called the most 
 considerable river in Dorsetshire, rising 
 T 4 
 
iSSo RIVERS AxVD COAST 
 
 like the rest in that vast tract of downs 
 which divides it from Somersetshire, its 
 tw^o channels uniting in a pleasant bourn 
 at Maiden Newton, from whence it pur- 
 sues a south-east course to Dorchester, 
 fed afterwards by various streams from 
 the hollows in the downs in the south, 
 and meeting the Piddle from the north, as 
 it turns more and more eastward to reach 
 Wareham, and forms the great expanse 
 of water constituting Poo/^ Harbour. 
 
 The country through which this river 
 takes its course is but thinly inhabited, 
 and bare of wood, but the range of downs 
 that extend parallel with the latter part 
 of its course, separating its vale from the 
 coast, are formed by nature in the boldest 
 manner, containing many tumuli and 
 antient encampments, with the singular 
 curiosity of one perfecS Roman amphi- 
 theatre near Dorchester, within view of 
 the old fortress of Maiden Castle. Dor- 
 chester may be called a pleasant town 
 from the neatness of its streets, and above 
 all, from the avenues and planted walks 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN^. 281 
 
 by which it is environed and approached, 
 after the manner of many French towns, 
 which has an increased effect in the midst 
 of so bare a country ; Mr. Pitt's hand- 
 some seat of Kingston Ues near this town, 
 in a well planted park. Wild heaths 
 succeed to the downs before the Froome 
 reaches the sea, and Poole Harbour is a 
 very extensive sheet of water, bounded 
 towards the south-west by the Isle of 
 Purbeck, in which the towers of Corfe 
 Castle make a considerable figure. Poole 
 is a flourishing port on its north-east 
 shore. 
 
 The Stoure finds its source in six 
 streams at Stourton in Wiltshire, three 
 of which are in the Park of Stourhead, 
 already described. Winding through Gil- 
 lingham forest, round the high hill on 
 which Shaftesbury stands exalted, it pe- 
 netrates through several downish bourns, 
 increased by their rivulets, and descend- 
 ing southward toStourminster, afterward3 
 pursues nearly a south-east direction aslant 
 the eastern division of Dorsetshire, joined 
 
zSl RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 by the Allen from the imrth at Winborn, 
 to Christ-church in Hampshire, where, 
 meeting the Avon of that county after- 
 being a Httle increased by the Blaciwater 
 from Cranbourn, both fall into the sea 
 opposite to the Isle of Wight. 
 
 Though, perhaps somewhat less than 
 the Froome, this is certainly by far the 
 pleasantest of the Dorsetshire streams, 
 forming in its passage the charming dell 
 beneath the clifF of Brianstone, which 
 Mr. Portman has so successfully embel- 
 lished with walks, groves, and a magni- 
 ficent mansion house. Blandford, one of 
 the neatest towns in the west of Eng- 
 land, rises on its banks like a phoenix, 
 from the ashes to which successive fires 
 had reduced it. The vicinage of this 
 river in particular, and indeed Dorset- 
 shire in general, arc noted for a profusion 
 of fine seats, and a race of noblemen and 
 country gentlemen, who exercise the 
 splendid and captivating hospitality of 
 past ages, yet uncontaminatcd by the 
 encroachment of manufactures. Lord 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIIS^. 283 
 
 Dorchester's extensive plantations, sur- 
 rounding his noble structure and park of 
 Milton Abbey, occupy a central point 
 north of the great road from Blandford to 
 Dorchester, and the Sioure, in its way to 
 the east from the former town, passes by 
 many others ; Murley, at a small distance 
 from Winborn, may boast a library supe- 
 rior to most in Europe, nor are the seats 
 of Mr. Sturt at Critchill, (lately occupied 
 by the Prince of Wales,) of Lord Shaftes- 
 bury at Winborne St. Giles, and of Mr. 
 Drax Grosvenor at Charborough, less 
 conspicuous, though more distant from 
 the river. The Stoure here forms a plea- 
 sing vale between gentle hills covered 
 with woods, and a downish ridge marked 
 w^ith several encampments, of which 
 BadburyRirjg, adorned with a high clump, 
 is most remarkable. The antient towers 
 of Winborn minster mark the pleasant 
 position of that town, but the country 
 becomes flat and heathy as the river ad- 
 vances to the Hampshire coast. 
 
 The Wiltshire and Hampshire 
 
584 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Avon pursues a course directly south- 
 ward, from the junction of its three early 
 component branches, one of which rises 
 at the edge of the forest of Savernake in 
 Lord Aylesbury's well wooded territory 
 near Marlborough, and the two others 
 in the downish district, between that tract 
 and the Devizes. After their union, the 
 Avon forms a valley between the Marl- 
 borough downs and the great plain of 
 Salisbury, descending southward by 
 Amesbury, and under Old Sarum, to Salis- 
 bury, on one side of which city it is 
 joined by the Willey, enlarged by the De- 
 verell near Warminster, and united with 
 the Nadder from the north and south- 
 west, and on the other by the Bourne, 
 flowing southward from CoUingbourne, 
 in the downs adjoining to the forest of 
 Chute* in Hampshire. None of these 
 rivers are very considerable till their junc- 
 tion, after which the Avon continues in a 
 southward direction through a part of the 
 New Forest by Fordingbridge and Ring' 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 1285 
 
 wood, till the Stoure meets it at Christ- 
 church, where it falls into the sea. 
 
 Many and curious are the remnants 01 
 antiquity, and the works of art, on this 
 river, and its assistant streams, though 
 towns are for the most part rare in these 
 open tracts, and the villages clustered 
 in their several bourns throughout the 
 downs. Stonehenge, Amesbury, Harro- 
 don Hill, Yanesborough Castle, and Old 
 Sarum, present great objects to the anti- 
 quarian, nor are numberless others want- 
 ing, in a tract which has been so often 
 the theatre of wars in remote ages; though 
 changed in some degree by the modern 
 encroachment ofcultivation, it still exhibits 
 abundance of encampments and tumuli. 
 Various handsome seats mark the descent 
 of the Avo?i to Salisbury, of which the 
 Duke of Queensbery's fine mansion and 
 park of Amesbury Abbey (now cruelly 
 despoiled of its timber, and converted 
 into a French nunnery) is the most re- 
 markable. The Nadder and the W'llley have 
 still more to boast of in contributing to 
 
286 RIVEltS AND COASr 
 
 adorn the magnificent mansions and 
 grounds of Wardour Castle and Wilton ; 
 a brook joining the Nadder also is swelled 
 into a great lake in Mr. Beckford*s superb 
 domain of Font- Hill, where an abbey of 
 surprising grandeur is now constructing 
 on a lofty eminence, under the judicious 
 auspices and taste of Mr. Wyatt. The 
 handsome city of Salisbury, with the 
 elegant fabric of its Gothic cathedral and 
 lofty spire, famous for its select society 
 and its happy cultivation of music, occu- 
 pies the spot where these rivers join, sur- 
 rounded by an opulent and respectable 
 neighbourhood. Longford Castle, the 
 fine seat of Lord Radnor, lies on the 
 banks of the Avon below this city, which 
 flows beneath the elevated mansions of 
 Mr. Dawkins and Mr. Shafto, and at no 
 great distance from General Bathurst's 
 noble territory of Clarendon Park, with 
 the seats of Norman Court and Dean, as 
 it approaches Downton, and the borders 
 of Hampshire. 1 he country now be- 
 comes delightfully wooded, as the Avon 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^iSy 
 
 , ^ forms a charming vale with the New 
 Forest on one side, and various seats on 
 the other, of which Sir Edward Hulse's 
 at Bremmer is most conspicuous. A less 
 interesting sandy level succeeds below 
 Ringwood, from whence the high tower 
 and town of Christchurch at its mouth 
 appear almost to rise out of the sea, op- 
 posite to the rocks called the Needles, and 
 the cliffs of the Isle of Wight. 
 
 The Anton and Test, The Alne 
 ANLD Itch EN, contributing with smaller 
 streams to form The Southampton 
 River. 
 
 The Anton rises about twelve miles on 
 the north and north-east of Andover in 
 Hampshire from two sources, one of 
 which passes Whitchurch, and meeting 
 the Test at Wherwell, it then proceeds 
 nearly southward to Stockbridge and 
 Romsey, joined by several streams from 
 the New Forest at Redbridge, where it 
 forms the head of the Southampton River. 
 
 The Alne and the Itchen rise near AI- 
 resford, uniting below that town, and af- 
 
288 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 terwards bearing the sole name of the 
 lichhi, which makes a compass by the 
 west to reach Winchester, and then dei- 
 sccnds southward to Southampton. 
 
 All these rivers, flowing for the first part 
 of their course through a bleak and down- 
 ish country, surrounded by water-mea- 
 dows and chalky hills, have little of the 
 beautiful to grace their banks. The 
 landscape improves, however, as they ap- 
 proach their exit, the soil changing to 
 gravel, and a pleasant wooded territory 
 succeeding to the bleak downs in which 
 they find their origin. Whitchurch, 
 Andover, Stockbridge, and Romsey, are 
 the towns on the Anton and Test, but 
 they have no considerable features ; Lord 
 Palmerston's seat of Broadlands, near the 
 latter town, is w^ell worthy of admira- 
 tion, and the river adds much to its 
 beauty. Lord Rodney's seat above Al- 
 resford commands the It chin and the Alne, 
 together with a large pool of water, 
 which may be called a handsome lake; the 
 Alne also (previous to its junction) passes 
 
or GREAT BRITAIN. nig 
 
 by the venerable pile of Tichbourne. 
 Avington, lately the seat of the Duke of 
 Chandos, and Worthy, a fine place of Sir 
 Chaloner Ogle, lie on the banks of the 
 united rivers, while Mr. Bathurst's high 
 situation of Lainston covers a considerable 
 eminence at some distance with its 
 groves which appear to descend into the 
 plain in a magnificent avenue. The 
 downish hills here form a dreary amphi- 
 theatre, breaking out in chalky cliffs, and 
 inclosing a bleak vale, in which Win- 
 chester is rather unpleasantly situated, 
 but it exhibits six interesting objects, in 
 its palace, its ruins, its walls, its cross, its 
 cathedral, and its college. Each of these 
 is highly attractive to a traveller, and the 
 cathedral in particular displays some of 
 the finest monuments in England, to 
 which the gloomy weight of that vene- 
 rable pile adds considerable effect. The 
 college, united with New College, Oxford, 
 is magnificently endowed by the bounty 
 of William of Wykeham; and its towers, 
 with the adjacent hill of St. Catharine, 
 U 
 
2gO RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 which is surrounded by the circular trench 
 of an encampment, and crowned with an 
 ornamental clump, cannot fail to interest 
 those w^ho, like myself, passed many of the 
 years of their youth in these consecrated 
 bounds, profiting by the classic taste, 
 genius, and information, of the late 
 worthy Dr. Warton, for many years 
 head master of that noble institution. 
 The hospital of St. Cross, about a mile 
 below Winchester on the banks of the 
 river, presents a fine foundation for the 
 support of old men, whose venerable 
 church (a miniature of Winchester ca- 
 thedral) forms one side of a regular qua- 
 drangle, fronting the antient gateway 
 and the master's handsome lodgings, be- 
 tween which, on each side, the old pen- 
 sioners are comfortably lodged in separate 
 apartments. Below this structure, ///<? 
 Itchin glides on between water meadows 
 to the pleasant village of Twyford, and 
 soon afterwards enters a well -wooded 
 country, passing by Bishops-stoke, and 
 between the two fine places of Mr. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. i^pl 
 
 Fleming and Mr. Sloane at North and 
 South Stoneham. Villas and seats in 
 great abundance (of which Sir John 
 Mordaunt's place of Bevis Mount is most 
 observable) cover every eminence, as the 
 broad mirror oithe Southampton River be- 
 comes visible, towards which the It chin 
 hastens, being navigable from Winchester, 
 and full of docks for ship-building below 
 Southampton. That handsome town, 
 approached by a grand suburb with a fine 
 old gateway, extends in a noble street to 
 the water, surrounded by walls, which, 
 projecting into the great basin, enjoy 
 beautiful views across it to the wooded 
 shore of the New Forest, while in front, at 
 the point of its junction with the sea, 
 the high hills of the Isle of Wight ap- 
 pear conspicuous. Southampton has long 
 been a favourite public place, to which 
 its beautiful situation and splendid build- 
 ings fully entitle it, together with every 
 article of refined and luxurious accom- 
 modation. 
 
 The Southampton River^ composed of 
 
 U 2 
 
ZgZ RIVERS AND COA.ST 
 
 those above described, immediately on its 
 formation at Redbridge becomes a con- 
 siderable arm of the sea, flowing to the 
 south-east between theNewForest groves 
 (in which Mr. Drummond's fine seat of 
 Cadlands is embowered) and the vene- 
 rable remains of Netley Abbey, near 
 which the Hamhle, swelling from an in- 
 considerable stream into a broad aestuary, 
 descends into it from the interior of 
 Hampshire. Beneath the fortress of Cal- 
 shot Castle, its proper exit to the sea 
 may be determined, where an angular 
 strait divides the Isle of Wight from the 
 Hampshire coast, near the entrance of 
 Portsmouth Harbour. 
 
ii;*mwiimm4w 
 
 OF GREAT BRITAIN. 293 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 The Coast of Devonshire, Dorsetshire, and 
 Hampshire, from Plymouth Sound to 
 Portsmouth Harbour — Rivers of Sussex 
 —The Arun, The Adur, The Ouse, 
 The Cockmare, and The Rother — 
 Rivers of Kent — The Stoure, The 
 Med way — The Coast of Hampshire, 
 Sussex, and Kent, from Portsmouth 
 Harbour to the mouth of t\it Thames. 
 
 The coast of England, throughout the 
 channel from the entrance of Plymouth 
 Sound to Portsmouth Harbour, chiefly 
 fronts the south, though it is deeply in- 
 dented with various bays formed by great 
 projecting head-lands. The town of 
 Kingsbridge in Devonshire is situated in 
 the first of these protruding tracts, at the 
 head of a large basin called Salcolm Haven, 
 and communicating w4th the sea ; it is 
 
 U3 
 
 MMUVaMMlll ).«■ 
 
594 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 in the midst of a finely featured country, 
 which is rarely visited by strangers on 
 account of the steepness of the hills, and 
 the difficulty of the roads. The Bay of 
 Dartmouth, at the exit of that romantic 
 river the Dart, is formed between Start 
 Point on the south-west, and Froward 
 Point on the east, below which the pro- 
 montories of Berryhead and Tor Quay 
 enclose the spacious road of Torbay, the 
 coast of which beautiful expanse of water, 
 holding out a safe refuge to our navy in 
 contrary winds, is distinguished by the 
 three villages of Brixham, Churston Fer- 
 rers, and Peignton. This bay fronts the 
 south-east, and the Devonshire coast lies 
 in the same direction, beyond the Teign, 
 as far as the mouth of the Ex, when it 
 gradually turns towards the south as it 
 unites with that of Dorsetshire nearLy me, 
 which town is delightfully situated on 
 the slope of several precipitous hills 
 towards a southern sea, and though ill 
 built, with steep, narrow, and winding 
 streets, has been preferred by many to the 
 
 7 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. zgS 
 
 numerous sea-bathing places on this 
 coast. The shore from hence turns gra- 
 dually to front the south-west, terminat- 
 ing far to the south in the huge rock of 
 Portland Island, which is connected with 
 it near Abbotsbury, by that extraordinary 
 beach of pebbles called the Chessil Bank, 
 which runs for many miles parallel with it. 
 
 Thus is that immense gulph formed, 
 which includes the greater part of the 
 south of Devonshire, and much of Dor- 
 setshire, together with the several smaller 
 bays of those counties, between the op- 
 posite horns of Start Pohtt near Kings- 
 bridge, and the Btll of Portland, which is 
 covered with two light houses. On the 
 opposite side another bay opens, little 
 inferior to this in extent, stretching out 
 to the borders of Hampshire, and bounded 
 by those vast cliffs which terminate the 
 Isle of Wight to the south, between Chale 
 and St. Lawrence. 
 
 The rock of Portland, which is above 
 seven miles in circumference, commands 
 these spacious bays in great perfection 
 
 U4 
 
2g6 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 from an abrupt perpendicular height, 
 which overhangs the sea tremendously 
 on every side, except towards the north, 
 where it descends in a steep, but practi- 
 cable hill, to its little port close to the 
 Chessil Bank, from which ridge a short 
 ferry is established to the main land of 
 Dorsetshire. Here are found those quar- 
 ries of white stone, which have been so 
 deservedly held in high repute, and with 
 which so many of the great buildings in 
 our metropolis, and in the interior of Eng- 
 land, have been constructed. Numbers 
 are employed in working them ; and this 
 barren rock is thus rendered a populous, 
 as well as a cultivated district, with a neat 
 village in the centre of its level summit, 
 which is adorned with ahandsomechurch. 
 The Bay of IFeymotith opens imme- 
 diately below Portland, and that tract of 
 Dorsetshire called the Isle of Purbeck 
 stretches out on the opposite side to the 
 south-east, terminating in the point called 
 St. Alban's Head. The range of cliffs 
 which bound this coast, as well as the 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^97 
 
 shoals called the Race of Portland, are ex- 
 tremely dangerous to shipping, and wrecks 
 are very frequent here in stormy seasons. 
 The Cove of LuUworth presents an occa- 
 sional refuge to small vessels, but its en- 
 trance is so narrow as to render it of 
 little use. Immediately behind it, Lull- 
 worth Castle, the fine seat of Mr. Weld, 
 occupies a charming elevation, and ex- 
 hibits a grand baronial pile in the midst 
 of some ornamented grounds, command- 
 ing the sea with good effect through a 
 gap in the rocks. In the centre of the 
 Isle of Purbeck, Corfe Castle displays its 
 ruined towers on a high eminence with 
 great majesty, and this pleasant district is 
 inhabited by several respectable families, 
 whose seats make a handsome appear- 
 ance, Mr. Bond's of the Grange being 
 the most conspicuous. Turning round 
 the^ point of Purbeck towards the north, 
 the Bay of Stiidland fronts the east, wdthin 
 which the great expanse of Poole Har- 
 bour intersects the country, marked with 
 several islands and distinguished by the 
 
ZgS RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 port of Poole. The Isle of Wight ter- 
 minates this bay grandly with a vast range 
 of cliffs in full front, where the broken 
 rocks of the Needles and the advancing 
 point of Hurst Castle exhibit strong 
 grounds of conjecture that the main 
 shore of Hampshire was once united with 
 that island. The coast of Hampshire, 
 adjoining to Dorsetshire, now fronts the 
 south-east, as the Avon descends by Christ- 
 church, and the wooded tract of the New 
 Forest extends to the entrance of the 
 Southampton River, intersected by the 
 Ly mingy the Beanlieu and the Dark- Water, 
 and throughout fronting the Isle of 
 Wight. Lord Bute's superb mansion of 
 High Cliff is boldly situated near Christ- 
 church, and the country is delightful 
 from thence to Lymington, which occu- 
 pies a gentle eminence about two miles 
 above the coast, with a level below, 
 which abounds in salt works. 
 
 My visit to this place bore a melan- 
 choly aspect, being in consequence of the 
 death of a much-lamented mother and 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 299 
 
 sister in the summer of 1800, the latter 
 of whom, alas ! followed the former in a 
 few days to the same grave ; having paid 
 every respect their memory claimed, I 
 took a short review of the pleasant town 
 they had fixed on as their residence, 
 which had undergone much improve- 
 ment since I saw it many years before, 
 and is capable of still more, by an amend- 
 ment of the paving, and the removal of 
 a heavy market place in the centre of the 
 high street. The cheerful, yet rural, ap- 
 pearance of this place, unlike the superb 
 display and crowded streets of Wey- 
 mouth and Southamptom, has very pow- 
 erful attractions ; and, independent of 
 the great influx of company during the 
 summer months, it may boast a very 
 elegant assemblage of its own, in various 
 respectable families which reside at Ly- 
 mington or its vicinage, where every ad- 
 vantage of society, medical attendance, 
 and accomplishment, is to be obtained in 
 an eminent degree, nature having also 
 embellished the surrounding country with 
 
300 RIVERS A]S^D COAST 
 
 every captivating charm to the eye, both 
 in sea and land views. 
 
 The channel, after the junction of the 
 Southampton Water, turns round the 
 northern point of the Isle of Wight, gra- 
 dually making its compass, till the coast 
 of Hampshire fronts the south-west, 
 opposite to that part of the Isle of Wight 
 where the River Medina descends in a 
 broad sheet from Newport, its handsome 
 capital, backed by the noble ruin of Ca- 
 risbrook Castle, to its principal port of 
 Cowes. The sreat station of the British 
 navy at Spithead and St. Helens stretches 
 put here betw^een the island and the 
 shore of Hampshire, where Portsmouth 
 expands its large bay and harbour, op- 
 posite to the narrow neck of land occu- 
 pied by Gosport, where a small river from 
 Fareham swells suddenly into a vast sestu- 
 ary, the Meon descending from Lord 
 Clanrickard's territory near Warnford, 
 Wickham, and the interior of Hamp- 
 shire, in another valley a little further to 
 the west. All these objects, backed by 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 30I 
 
 the numerous buildings attending the 
 dock of Portsmouth, surrounded at high 
 water by the great curving arms of the 
 sea which appear to insulate these tracts, 
 and fronted by the lofty hills of the Isle of 
 Wight, with the wooded range of the 
 New Forest, are seen in the greatest per- 
 fection from the high ridge of Ports- 
 Down, extending in a waving line paral- 
 lel with the coast, about five miles behind 
 Portsmouth and Gosport ; on the land 
 side, the noble old mansion of Southwick, 
 backed by the forest of Purbeck, and on 
 the sea-side, the venerable walls of Por- 
 chester Castle, lie under this beautiful hill, 
 which may be justly described as com- 
 manding one of the finest prospects ifi 
 England. 
 
 The Aru2^ is the first river of note 
 wc come to in the course of this progress 
 In Sussex, flowing nearly southward, 
 through a country of deep clay from the 
 borders of Surry, till it penetrates through 
 a hollow of the South Downs to reach 
 
302 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Arundel. The Duke of Norfolk is re- 
 building the castle of that place (to which 
 his earldom is said to be affixed) in a 
 stile of princely but irregular magnifi- 
 cence ; backed by a bold and well-wooded 
 park, it overlooks the level coast of Sussex 
 proudly from its high cliiF, the town de- 
 scending abruptly below it in a broad and 
 steep street. 
 
 The Adur, The Ouse, The Cock- 
 MARE, AND The Rother, are the re- 
 maining rivers of the long, but shallow, 
 county of Sussex, the three first rising in 
 that deep arid rich tract called the Weald, 
 and penetrating the South Downs to 
 reach the sea. 
 
 The Adur thus descends southward by 
 Steyning to New Shoreham on the coast, 
 and The Ouse pursues a similar course 
 from Uckfield by the kandsome town of 
 Lewes to Newhaven. The vales which 
 these rivers form are pleasant, but have 
 no strong features. The Rother is very 
 different, rising near the picturesque vil- 
 
or GREAT BRITAIN. 303 
 
 lage of Mayfield in Kent, in a very hilly, 
 cultivated, and thickly-wooded country, 
 fed also in its course by various streams 
 from vallies similar to that w^hich it forms. 
 It no v^here approaches the Downs, but 
 following a south-east direction till it 
 emerges from its hills, and becoming a 
 sluggish stream as it sinks into a sandy 
 level, turns at last southward to make a 
 ^reat basin on the east of the port of Rye, 
 at the extremity of Sussex, which is the 
 least improved of any town of consider- 
 able trade I have seen. The Brede from 
 some pleasant vallies behind Battel, joins 
 the Rother below Winchelsea, which is 
 iiow to its exit surrounded by a dismd 
 fen from the high grounds of Sussex to 
 Romney Marsh in Kent. 
 
 The Stoure of Kent is a very circu- 
 itous stream, taking its source in the 
 Weald of that fine county, near Charing. 
 Its direction is south-east to Ashford, 
 from whence (receiving the Lesser Stoure 
 from the Downs in the east, and another 
 small stream from the Weald in the west) 
 
304 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 It gradually turns almost north to reach 
 Canterbury, and the edge of the Isle of 
 Thane t ; it then makes a circle again by. 
 the east towards the south to Sandwich, 
 and turns at last again northward to fall 
 into the sea below the Bay of Hope. 
 
 The Weald of Kent is a wonderfully 
 rich, but level country, overlooked by the 
 town of Ashford with its lofty tower ; 
 from thence the Stoure traverses a sweet 
 vale, which is commanded by the high 
 groves and avenues of Eastwell Park, 
 spreading into extensive lawns, and 
 adorned with a magnificent new man- 
 sion by its present owner, Mr. Hatton. 
 The vale of the Stoure afterwards becomes 
 narrower, including Olantigh, the highly- 
 finished seat of Mr. Sawbridge, Mr. 
 Knight'shandsome place of Godmersham, 
 and Mr. Heron's venerable pile of Chilham 
 Castle. Shortly after, Canterbury dis- 
 plays its extensive walls and noble gates, 
 overtopped by its numerous churches, and 
 libove all, by the magnificent towers and 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 305 
 
 body of Its metropolitan cathedral. A 
 sandy flat attends the Stoure from the 
 borders of the Isle ofThanet, to the mi- 
 serable old port of Sandwich, from 
 whence it makes its exit to the sea. 
 
 The Med way is the only remaining 
 Kentish river of any note, and by far the 
 most important of any except the Thames. 
 It rises on the borders of Surry and 
 Sussex, somewhat north of East Grin- 
 stead, and takes a north-east course to 
 Tunbridge and Maidstone, met by va- 
 rious streams of less note on each side. 
 It then turns with a long compass by the 
 north to the east, to reach Rochester and 
 Chatham, winding still wath various 
 curves eastward, till it joins the arm of 
 the sea called the Swale, (which cuts oiF 
 the Isle of Shepey from the main land 
 of Kent,) and turning again northward to 
 enter the Nore under the fort of Sheer- 
 ness, near the mouth of the Thames, 
 
 The Medway flows almost every where 
 through a pleasant and populous country, 
 but adds little to its beauty at first, being 
 X 
 
306 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 mostly buried within its banks. The 
 town of Tunbridge, with its castle, by 
 which the river passes, is about five miles 
 distant from the celebrated public resojtof 
 Tunbridge Wells, where houses, strangely 
 piled on each other, (in a deep hollow sur- 
 rounded by sandy and heathy hills,) make 
 a very curious appearance. The princi- 
 pal eminences, especially those towards 
 the north, command noble views over 
 the rich vale of the Medway, the high 
 groves and interesting towers of Pens- 
 hurst, and the ridge which, crowned with 
 the plantations of Knowle, forms the di- 
 vision between this tract and the valley 
 of Riverhead. Lord Le Despenser's sin- 
 gular church at Mcreworth, and his 
 house, highly finished in the Italian taste, 
 with Teeston, the seat of Mr. Bouverie, 
 are passed by the Medway in the pleasant 
 vale it forms between Tunbridge and the 
 old county town of Maidstone, over- 
 looked at last on the east by the heights 
 of Cocksheath. That river, joined by a 
 trifling rivulet from the park of Leeds 
 
of GttEAT BRItAIN. 307 
 
 Castle, winds afterwards round the de- 
 cayed town of Aylesford, becoming sud- 
 denly a bold and wide stream, which 
 rolls proudly through a rich territory, till 
 it rushes furiously under the arches of the 
 antient bridge of Rochester, dividing that 
 city from its suburb of Stroud. Rochester 
 cathedral and castle occupy an elevated 
 position above it; and a broad sweep be- 
 low the bridge, with the accession of the 
 tide, exhibits the superb buildings and 
 dock of Chatham, with the great ships 
 within its port. From thence to the 
 mouth of the Medway, its banks are 
 marshy and uninteresting, except where 
 the forest of masts which encompasses 
 Sheerness, indicates its approach to the 
 sea. 
 
 The southern coast of England from 
 Portsmouth Harbour, as we travel eastward 
 on it, becomes indented with another 
 large basin, interspersed with various 
 islands, from which also, several curving 
 arms penetrate into the country, one of 
 them forming Chichester Harbour. The 
 
308 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 small river Lavent contributes to fill this 
 basin, descending southward by that neat 
 city, the high spire of whose cathedral 
 appears to great advantage, rising out of 
 the sandy level which approaches the 
 coast, and backed by the waving line of 
 South Downs at some distance. Along 
 this ridge various fine places are scattered, 
 of which Stanstead, Up-Park, and Good- 
 wood, are most observable, the heights 
 above the latter being embellished with 
 some striking buildings, while the most 
 complete dog-kennel in England is con- 
 structed in the lower parts of the park. 
 In the vale behind these downs, which 
 are here very narrow, the noble park of 
 Cow drey near Midhurst, (whose Gothic 
 mansion, containing the invaluable paint- 
 ings of Hans-Holbein, was some years 
 ago consumed by fire,) and the extensive 
 grounds and plantations encircling Lord 
 Egremont's stately mansion of Pet worth, 
 arc conspicuous objects. The prospects 
 on each side are delightful ; Goodwood 
 and Halncker Parks commanding the 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 309 
 
 southern \Tiew towards Chichester and the 
 coast most happily, and Mr. Sargent's 
 new-built house at Lavington, in the 
 midst of a pleasing territory, opening 
 finely to the northern view. 
 ' The point of Low-land, called Selsea 
 Bill, terminates this level coast towards 
 the south, and a little further the new 
 public bathing place of Bognor has started 
 into eminence, near some low rocks in 
 the sea, which render the navigation dif- 
 ficult on this side. Littlehampton, a 
 small public place near Arundel, in a 
 dreary marsh, appears deservedly in great 
 measure relinquished, yielding to its more 
 successful neighbours of Bognor and 
 Worthing, the latter of which, further 
 advanced towards the east, occupies a 
 pleasant position in the midst of a fertile 
 and well- wooded level. TheSouthDowns 
 now form a nearer back ground, and soon 
 advancing towards the coast, break into 
 stupendous cliffs, where the splendid 
 buildings of Brighthelmstone, which may 
 be called the capital of the numerous 
 
 X3 
 
3IO RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 public places on the southern coast, rise 
 in almost oriental magnificence, teeming 
 with every product of successful art and 
 luxury. The easy access to London, and 
 the fine roads by which this place is ap- 
 proached, joined with its pure air, its 
 open sea, and surrounding downs, exhi- 
 bit strong natural attractions, to which 
 the artificial display of the Steyne, its pa- 
 vilion, and contiguous modern structures, 
 add their fairy powers in fascinating the 
 motley succession of public visitors, who 
 make Brighthelmstone their summer 
 residence. 
 
 The South Downs from hence occupy 
 a great portion of the country, impending 
 over the sea in chalky cHfFs, till termi- 
 nated by the bold point of Beachy-Head. 
 A delightful valley, wxll-wooded, and 
 thickly sprinkled with villages, here 
 stretches northward up the country at 
 the foot of these receding downs, where 
 the retired, but not unornamented, spot 
 of East Bourn presents one of the plea- 
 santest public places on this coast, and is 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 3II 
 
 -well frequented by those to whom the 
 bustle of Brighthelmstone is offensive. 
 The sandy and marshy level, surrounding 
 the castle of Pevensey, extends from 
 hence to the rock of Hastings, behind 
 which the high grounds of Sussex and 
 Kent arrange themselves in a consider- 
 able amphitheatre, the bold ruin of Hurst- 
 moncea Castle fronting the coast at the 
 extremity of its enclosure, the fine park 
 of Lord Ashburnham covering the hills 
 above with its extensive drives and plan-^ 
 tations, and the inhabited pile of Battel 
 Abbey forming a prominent feature on 
 the eminence where William the First 
 obtained his conquest. The port of Has- 
 tings fills a hollow between two cliffs 
 somewhat below, and soon aftervvards 
 great fens succeed, in which the rock, 
 covered with the town of Rye, and a 
 neighbouring high hill, crowned with the 
 decayed village and curious ruins of 
 Winchelsea, appear like islands rising in 
 a boundless ocean, as the vast marsh of 
 Romney, justly celebrated for its fertility, 
 
 X4 
 
312 RIVERS AND COASt 
 
 expands towards the Weald of Kent, oc- 
 cupying a considerable division of that 
 large county. The towers and towns of 
 New Romney and Lydd appear as beacons 
 in this unwholesome level, which stretches 
 out far into the channel in the low point 
 ofDenge-Ness, being defended afterwards 
 for a great distance against the sea by the 
 curious and very expensive bulwark called 
 Dhnchiirch WmIL 
 
 The coast from Beachy-Head turns ra- 
 ther eastw^ard from the south, resuming 
 its original direction from Rye Have?t, 
 where Sussex joins with Kent, to Denge- 
 Ness, after which it bears again considerably 
 to the east. Kent by no means abounds 
 in rivers, as there is not one of any note 
 from the Rather of Sussex, to the Stoure at 
 the edge of the Isle of Thanet. The 
 port of Hythe properly terminates the 
 level of Romney Marsh, being built on 
 the side of a rock, on which its church 
 is placed, and behind it are the church 
 and ruined castle of Salt-wood. The 
 beach, though narrow, continues still flat. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 313 
 
 and abounding In sand and pebbles as far 
 as the long street of Sandgate and its 
 castle, which (like those of Walmer, 
 Deal, and Sandown) is a garrison with 
 round towers, constructed on the plan 
 pursued by Henry VIII. The hills closing 
 in here, a steep and downish tract suc- 
 ceeds, descending from the interior of 
 Kent to the coast in a fine ridge, and ter- 
 minating in abrupt chalky cliffs, from 
 which the heights of Bologne and a large 
 portion of the coast of Picardy in France, 
 are distinctly visible across the channel. 
 Folkstone descends in one of the hollows 
 of this range from its high church to the 
 sea-shore ; and that cliff so strikingly de- 
 scribed by Shakespeare rises perpendicu- 
 larly over the beach, opposed by the still 
 bolder eminence on which the noble 
 fabric of Dover Castle stands exalted. 
 Between these two grand points a nar- 
 row semicircular range of cliffs is formed, 
 receding a little from the coast, beneath 
 which the long and winding port of 
 Dover occupies all the space open to the 
 
314 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 sea, whose curious position is finely over- 
 looked from the almost perpendicular 
 height of its castle, to which an admirable 
 ascent from the town has been lately 
 formed by government. This castle is 
 now a very extensive and well-formed 
 garrison, but its antient remains are most 
 striking ; the view it commands is very 
 singular, and the spires of Calais may be 
 easily distinguished from thence, rising 
 apparently out of the water from the 
 level coast which unites France with 
 Flanders. 
 
 The downs continue along the shore 
 far beyond Dover, ending in high cliffs, 
 and sinking occasionally into hollows, 
 which open to fine sea views. At length 
 they finish towards the coast in the head- 
 land called the South Foreland, from 
 whence the shore fronts the east, reced- 
 ing apparently to surround a large sandy 
 area, which appears to have been in dis- 
 tant ages a dereliction of the sea, and is 
 terminated in front by the high grounds 
 of the Isle of Thanct. Here that safe 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 315 
 
 road for shipping, which has obtained the 
 name of the Downs , and is crowded with 
 vessels, expands itself before the busy port 
 of Deal, which is situated between the 
 castles of Walmer and Sandown, and 
 lately provided with a most superb range 
 of barracks. The old decayed town of 
 Sandwich, now reviving in trade, is 
 placed near the end of this level, and 
 Ebbs-Fleet, famous for the landing of 
 Hengist, closes in with the Isle of Thanet, 
 which is apparently cut off from the rest 
 of the Kentish coast by the little river Sarr 
 from the north, uniting with the Stour^ 
 in the south. 
 
 This beautiful and fertile district covers 
 a high eminence, descending in abrupt 
 cliffs on three sides to the sea, and pro- 
 jecting far into it. The coast turns ra- 
 pidly to the North Foreland, and then 
 makes a second sweep to encompass this 
 tract, fronting the north. This circum- 
 stance, added to the elevation of the 
 ground, creates a great variety of striking 
 views, and the circle of the Isle of Thanet 
 
3l6 RIVEUS AND COAST 
 
 presents one of the most interesting rides 
 in England. Ramsgate at first exhibits 
 its handsome crescent, and protrudes its 
 magnificent stone pier far over the sea, 
 and the shipping in tJie Downs ^ as well as 
 towards the French coast. The bold 
 point of the North Foreland follows, 
 headed by a light-house, and Kingsgate 
 fronts the eastern sea, adorned with vari- 
 ous eccentric buildings by the late Lord 
 Holland. Margate, the most con.^ider- 
 able of these public places, fronts the 
 north bay, below Avhich the two extra- 
 ordinary spires of the Reculver church, 
 together with their romantic history, en- 
 gage the attention of travellers. The 
 gardens of Dandalion frequently attract 
 the company of Margate to their agree- 
 able shades, and Mount Pleasant, situated 
 in the centre of the Isle of Thanet, com- 
 mands all its sea views at once, together 
 with the enchanting fertility of the inte- 
 rior district, and its neat villages. 
 
 Below this island, the coast of Kent 
 becomes marshy, still fronting the north. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 317 
 
 as It descends by Whitstable to tjie nar- 
 row arm of the sea called the Swale, 
 which encircles two sides of the Isle of 
 Shepey ; it then turns eastward, till it 
 reaches the point where the Medway ter- 
 minates its course by its junction with 
 the Swale, beyond which the fort of 
 Sheerness projects, and the Month of the 
 TJiames opens. 
 
3l8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 I CHAP. XVI. 
 
 1 
 
 > 
 
 i The Thames, and its auxiliary streams — 
 
 f Uncertain origin of the Isis, its principal 
 
 j - branch — Reputed to he a small stream on 
 
 j tJie northern border of Wiltshire — Its 
 
 « passage through a part of Glocester shire , 
 
 \ and most of Oxfordshire, joined by several 
 
 lesser rivulets, and the Evenlode near 
 Woodstock — Grand view of Oxford from 
 its banks — Junction of the Cher well 
 beloxv that City — First view of the Chil- 
 tern Hills — Union of the Thame with 
 the Isis, thus constituting the classic 
 name of Thamesis — Beautiful country 
 which the Thames traverses, forming 
 also the principal object of it, in its pas- 
 sage through Oxfordshire, Berkshire, and 
 Bucki?/ghamshire, by Readi?ig, Henley, 
 Mar low, and Maidenhead — Junction of 
 the Kennett from North Wiltshire at 
 Reading, with an account of the country 
 
•\f» 
 
 !B anlrai'v* ) ; 
 
 '■ffllOtff, 
 
 ^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 NWbo(L}ti>ck, 
 
 •i*7 0XFOBIJ 
 
 Thame 
 
 Abiivg^linv 
 
 Walliag^rfl 
 
 i^ 
 
 ^ 
 
 ReajozstgI 
 
 AN^ewburv 
 
 Uritish MJ&f. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 319 
 
 pervaded by that river — Accession of the 
 Loddon from the northern border of 
 Hampshire, and a small stream from 
 High Wycombe in Buchnghamshire, with 
 the interesting character of some Seats and 
 Families in the vicinage of Beaconsfield — 
 Great change of country in descending 
 hito the fiat below Maidenhead — Mimic 
 display of Monkey Island — Superb ap- 
 proach to "Eton College and Windsor 
 Castle, backed by the hills of Wi7tdsor 
 Forest and Park, 
 
 This mighty king of all the British 
 rivers, superior to most in beauty, and to 
 all in importance, remains last to be de- 
 scribed, as this tour has now made the 
 complete compass of our island. 
 
 Like the source of the Nile, the position 
 of the original fountain of the Thames has 
 been variously assigned, and its birth-place 
 has been almost as much contested as that 
 of Homer, by divers contributing springs 
 on the borders of Glocestershire and 
 Wiltshire, through which its several early 
 
320 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 branches hasten to form their union pre- 
 vious to their reaching Oxfordshire. 
 Cricklade in Wiltshire is "the central 
 town of this district, and some attribute 
 the honour of forming the head of the 
 Thames to a clear fountain in its vicinage, 
 which has long borne that title, and been 
 considered almost as a consecrated spot 
 by the veneration of the surrounding 
 villages ; while others prefer a stream 
 issuing from the vicinage of Kcmble, 
 marked by its neat spire; others again take 
 the rivulets which advance from Swindon 
 and Highworth in Wiltshire (one of 
 which is called thi Key) ; and many argue 
 for the Chum of Gloccstershire, which 
 rises in the hilly tract of the Cotteswold, 
 encircling the vale of Cheltenham, and 
 flow^s to the south-east, by Cirencester, 
 and through the extensive woods of 
 Lord Bathurst, to Cricklade. The dis- 
 pute is not of consequence, as none of 
 these fountains in their origin differ ma- 
 terially from a common rivulet, and each 
 country may innocently enjoy the fan- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 3^1 
 
 cied distinction, while the subjects of 
 their contention unite near Letchlade, 
 and creep in obscurity through the plain 
 of Oxfordshire, attended for some distance 
 by the parallel canal, which has been 
 lately made with immense expense to 
 join the Severn with the Thames, and so 
 to form what should seem the most im- 
 portant inland navigation of Great Bri- 
 tain, by transporting the influx of foreign 
 as well as internal wealth to and from the 
 capital. This canal, which has been no- 
 ticed before in this work, when its exit 
 from the Severn was mentioned, perforates 
 the long subterraneous tunnel of alper- 
 ton in Glocestershire, but even when it 
 advances to the river, does not form its 
 junction immediately, but pursues a similar 
 course to Letchlade, on the west of which 
 place the Coin descends from the plea- 
 sant villages of Bibury and Barnsley, and 
 on the east, the Lech, from North Lech, 
 adds its tributary forces ; after which the 
 combined streams bear together the classic 
 name of tJie Isis. Here the navigation of 
 
$t3 mVEKS AJTD COAST 
 
 this river properly commences, but it is 
 understood to be long very imperfect 
 from its winding course, and its prevail- 
 ing shallows ; neither is the country it 
 first traverses, dividing the counties of 
 Oxford and Berks, at all pleasant, as it 
 pursues its way, almost unseen, in the 
 midst of an unvaried plain, first towards 
 the east, and afterwards inclining to the 
 north. In this level the Whidrush joins it 
 from Burford and Witney, and the plea- 
 santer stream of the Evenlode, pursuing 
 nearly the same direction from the north- 
 west, descends from Whichwood Forest 
 and the great ridings of Charlbury, united 
 at last w ith a smaller stream which forms 
 the great lake in Woodstock Park in the 
 centre of the proud domain encircling 
 to.wcrs of Blenheim. The Isis, thus aug- 
 mented, turns suddenly to the south, 
 washing the ruined walls of Godstone 
 Nunnery, the chapel of which contains 
 the tomb of the unhappy Rosamond, 
 overhung on the west by a finely- wooded 
 hill, which still bears the traces of the 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIK. ^Z^ 
 
 park belonging to the .deserted pile of 
 Witham house, an old seat of the Abing- 
 don family. 
 
 The vale now expands itself into a- spa- 
 cious amphitheatre, bounded by some 
 striking hills, in the centre of which the 
 majestic towers, domes, and spires of 
 Oxford burst upon the sight, appearing 
 proudly ranged behind the thick shade 
 of the venerable groves. Here the his di- 
 vides itself into various small channels, 
 as it traverses the meadows of Witham, 
 leaving Oxford on the left, and passing 
 through several handsome stone bridges 
 connected by a grand cause-way, which 
 forms its principal approach from the west. 
 These streams soon re -uniting, the river 
 turns round the city towards the north- 
 east; and crossed by an antient stone bridge, 
 which was once decorated with the study 
 and gateway attributed to Friar Bacon, 
 glides beautifully through the enamelled 
 and ornamented meads of Christ Church. 
 That magnificently-endowed, and admi- 
 rably-conducted establishment, occupies 
 Y z 
 
324 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 a vast portion of the ground on which 
 Oxford stands, and exhibits some of the 
 finest anticnt and modern structures in 
 its university. These interesting objects 
 (with the treasure of painting, sculpture, 
 historical grandeur, and the possession of 
 literature which they contain) can be 
 viewed by few with indifference, but 
 must ever be approached with peculiar 
 satisfliction by those who, like the author 
 of these sheets, may justly boast a pride 
 .in having received there the academical 
 part of their education. A superb walk 
 of elms beneath this spacious College 
 fronts its meadow, over the deep foliage 
 of which, the Gothic buildings of Christ- 
 church appear in stately pride, as they 
 display themselves gradually, with a suc- 
 . cession of all the numerous towers of our 
 University, in the descent of the his, A 
 little lower it is joined by the CherweU, 
 flowing from the north by Banbury, and 
 passing on the eastern side of Oxford 
 throusih the arches of the maijcnificent 
 .bridge of Magdalen, (close to the rich 
 
OF, GREAT BRITAIN. ^2^ 
 
 Gothic tower of its College with its 
 charming walk,) thus, together with the 
 Isis, almost insulating the city and uni- 
 versity of Oxford. 
 
 The country becomes now for a while 
 more enclosed, and the numerous planta- 
 tions surrounding Lord Harcourt's noble 
 seatofNuneham on the Oxfordshire bank 
 of the Isis, are finely opposed by the thick 
 woods of Bagley in Berkshire, beneath 
 which, a handsome place of Sir James 
 Stonehouse appears, backed by the town 
 of Abingdon, with its picturesque spire 
 and long bridge. The Chiltern hills oc- 
 cupy all along the back ground at a dis- 
 tance, forming a waving line towards the 
 south, from the high clump of Farring- 
 don to the vicinage of Aylesbury, some- 
 times cloathed with thick woods of beech, 
 and at others protruding their chalky 
 sides and downish summits into the plain. 
 The \Yindings of the river through this 
 great level are frequent, but its direction 
 is mostly southward, a little inclined to 
 the east, as it passes between two high 
 
326 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 Berkshire hills, and the long straggling 
 town of Dorchester in Oxfordshire, who^e 
 antient church still displays some traits 
 of its pristine magnificence, having been 
 reputed the site of a bishopric. Some-^ 
 what below this place, the Thame ad- 
 vances from the north-east to meet it, 
 passing through the antient bridges of 
 Wheatley and Dorchester, and joining 
 the Isis a little above the point where the 
 more modern pile of Sbillingford Bridge 
 crosses both combined ; at this junction 
 the Thames first obtains its proper name, 
 being originally called Thamests from thS ' 
 union of the Thame and the Ists,ilVdir\ou%. 
 are the smaller streams which contribute 
 originally to create the Thame, some de- 
 scending from the central parts of Buck- 
 inghamshire, some even from the borders 
 of Hertfordshire, and many from the 
 lower parts of Oxfordshire ; not a few of 
 these make their pretensions to be re- 
 puted the heads of the Thames, and per- 
 haps their title might stand every test 
 with the heads of tlie Isis, except that of 
 
 ,._^^ <;-. .^ V*''»*;.^^|4,«i*J 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN". ^ZJ 
 
 distance. The country through which 
 the Thame flows is not remarkably plea- 
 sant, but the high tower of Thame 
 Church is a striking object, and the an- 
 tient mansion of Lord Abingdon in its 
 neighbourhood is worthy of observation, 
 embowered in the groves of Rycot-Park. 
 Shiilingford Bridge occupies a romantic 
 position, which strikes the eye more 
 strongly from being unlike the rest of the 
 country, which bears an open and dreary 
 aspect ; the more antient pile of VValling- 
 ford Bridge succeeds below its tow^n, and 
 Mungewell, a pleasant seat of the Bishop 
 of Durham, graces the Oxfordshire bank 
 of the Thames, The inclination of that 
 river from Wallingford to Pangbourn is 
 almost due south, but it there begins to 
 form a considerable circle by the east to 
 the north, below Reading, till it reaches 
 Henley, and then another by the north- 
 east to the south, to approach Maiden- 
 head, from whence its direction is nearly 
 south-east with various windings, till it 
 passes Windsor and Stanes. It then 
 Y4 
 
3^8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 makes a vast circle by the south to the 
 east, till it reaches Brentford ; after which 
 its direction is principally to the north- 
 east as it approaches London, turning 
 then in a bold swell to the east, and 
 maintaining that direction, after disport- 
 ing itself in various broad curves as an 
 aestuary, till falling into the sea, it forms 
 that deep bay, which penetrates far into 
 the kingdom in dividing the counties of 
 Essex and Kent. So much for the course 
 of this important river, which I have 
 given a short description of distinctly 
 from the objects that attend it, as those 
 objects now begin to increase in magni- 
 tude and beauty, and consequently to de- 
 mand a more particular attention. 
 
 A little below Wallingford the Thames 
 forms an indented valley through the 
 range of the Cotteswold hills, which losing 
 insensibly their downish character, be- 
 come at last adorned with most of the 
 varied beauties of art and nature, that 
 could be comprehended within their out- 
 line. High beech woods cover their sides 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIjS. 329 
 
 and summits, while rich meadows at- 
 tend the descent of the river ; towns and 
 villages are sprinkled about in all direc- 
 tions, and magnificent seats appear on 
 the heights which overhang the Oxford- 
 shire and Berkshire banks. Basildon, the 
 modern creation of Sir Francis Sykes, and 
 Caversham Park, the striking territory of 
 Major Marsac, are the places most hkely 
 to attract the eye forcibly ; beneath the 
 latter, the handsome county town of 
 Reading occupies a pleasant position, and 
 the valley formed by the Thames expands 
 into a rich plain, full of verdure, woods, 
 and population. 
 
 The Kennet here joins its tributary wa- 
 ters, flowing eastward from the Downs 
 of Wiltshire, where it rises near a village 
 of that name. This tract obtains the 
 title of the Marlborough Downs, to dis- 
 tinguish it from the still m.ore extensive 
 range of the Salisbury Plains in the same 
 county, from which it is divided by a 
 broad and rich vale. It is boldly marked 
 put, especially w^here its extremities ter- 
 
2S0 ftlVERS AND COAST 
 
 minate abruptly towards the great and 
 populous vale which includ'-s the cloath- 
 ing towns of North Wiltshire; and these 
 boundaries, commanding striking views 
 towards the ridge of Salisbury Plain fat 
 to the west, the borders of Somerset- 
 shire adjoining to Bath, and the upper 
 districts of Glocestershire, are adorned 
 with several fine seats, among which the 
 Marquis of Lansdown*s highly-orna- 
 mented and well-disposed domain of 
 Bow-Wood is most to be admired. The 
 interior of these downs is chiefly remark- 
 able for its beautiful swxlls, and the ver- 
 dure of its extensive pasture, overspread 
 with numberless flocks of sheep, each at- 
 tended by its shepherd, and a watchful 
 dog. Except where agriculture has of 
 late encroached on their sides and sum- 
 mits, these appear the sole denizens of the 
 surrounding wilds, w hich in fine weather 
 by no means impress a stranger with 
 melancholy, bearing a smiling aspect, that 
 differs widely from the rugged tracts of 
 the Yorkshire moors, or even the dreary 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 331 
 
 heaths of Surry. Remains of antiquity 
 are frequent In this open country, which 
 was long the seat of wars, and still pre- 
 serves their vestiges in various encamp- 
 ments and numerous tumuli, of which 
 one called Silbury Hill, near Beckhamp- 
 ton, is the largest in England. The 
 Saxon boundary of Wodensdike, or 
 Wansdike, is in high preservation here, 
 running in a line aslant the Downs 
 towards the south-east ; Avebury also 
 exhibits the remains of a Druid's temple, 
 and those vast stones called '' The Grey 
 Withers,''' are scattered irregularly about 
 the country, composed of materials not 
 unlike those of btonehenge. Towns are 
 thinly sprinkled, but neat farm-houses 
 occupy many sheltered spots, and villages 
 follow the various bourns formed by the 
 streams, that of the Ke?inet being the 
 most considerable. Marlborough makes 
 some figure on its banks, whose castle 
 has undergone various transformations, 
 being at one time a strong fortress and a 
 ^ royal residence, then becoming a scat 
 
33^ RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 of the Dukes of Somerset, who built the 
 present house, and now being converted 
 into one of the principal inns on the Bath 
 road. There are no remains of the old 
 fort, except its keep, which is ascended 
 by a circular winding walk between cut 
 hedges, and by its easy rise contributes 
 to the amusement of the numerous tra- 
 vellers w^ho frequent these gardens. The 
 wooded tract of Severnake Forest, sur- 
 rounding the park and mansion of Lord 
 Aylesbury, and intersected by his nu- 
 merous ridings, covers the hills On the 
 south-east of Marlborough in front of the 
 borough of Great Bedwin, round which 
 the Kennet winds in a compass by the 
 north, passing by the town of Ramsbury, 
 and the antient seat of Littlecott to 
 Hungerford. 
 
 The valley of the Kermet enlarges into 
 a considerable plain, as it approaches 
 Newbury, beneath Lord Craven's woods 
 of Bcnham Park, and its two ornamented 
 gateways, where the Downs of Hamp- 
 shire succeeding to those of Wiltshire 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^^^ 
 
 range themselves in bold forms towards 
 the south above the plantations of Lord 
 Porchester. A delightful vale succeeds 
 pervading much of the pleasant county 
 of Berks, well-ornamented with seats, 
 woods, and villages, and terminating in 
 the gentle knowl on which Reading is 
 situated. The Loddon brings a further 
 increase to the Thames somewhat lower, 
 rising a little within the limits of Hamp- 
 shire, and pursuing a north-east direction. 
 This small stream, traversing a charming 
 country, adds a considerable ornament to 
 the delightful place and park of Lord 
 Rivers, at Stratfield Saye, and skirts those 
 commons which unite afterwards with 
 Windsor Forest. 
 
 The Tha?7ies, thus augmented, swells 
 into a majestic river, full of commercial 
 craft, and glides in a broad silver mirrour 
 through the plain, till it becomes en- 
 gulphed amidst the fine chain of hills 
 surrounding Henley, A more beautifully- 
 marked country than this cannot easily 
 be formed by the most romantic fancy. 
 
334 BIVERS AND COAST 
 
 ^nd nature has placed this British para- 
 dise within forty miles of the capital of 
 pur country, to decorate the banks of its 
 principal river. The Thames throughout 
 divides the counties of Oxford and Buck- 
 ingham from Berkshire, rolling in a broad 
 transparent stream between hills cloathed 
 profusely with beech woods, and orna-» 
 mented with the splendid seats of some 
 of our principal nobility. The extensive 
 and finely- disposed territory of Lord 
 Malmesbury bears among these a strong 
 pre-eminence, covering several bold hills 
 with its plantations, between the hollows 
 of which, delightful lawns descend to the 
 margin of the river. The exquisite taste 
 of the late General Convvay formed this 
 charming place, to which its present 
 noble owner has added a stately mansion 
 on one of the highest points in the 
 grounds. Every effort of successful art 
 to aid and improve nature has been used 
 here, nor can any thing be imagined more 
 singularly beautiful than the succession 
 of views from the principal terrace, which, 
 
OF GR£A.T? BRITAI^^. 335 
 
 winding along the summits of the lawns 
 above their hollows, and profusely de- 
 corated with evergreens, exhibit all the 
 striking features of this enchanting district 
 to the highest advantage. Immediately 
 below, the handsome town of Henley 
 covers the Oxfordshire bank, whose lofty 
 flint tower and elegant stone bridge form 
 distinguished objects, from whichever 
 side they are viewed, and more especially 
 from the terrace of Park Place. 
 
 A little below Henley, on the Oxford^ 
 shire bank, the delightful district of 
 Fawley Court, the seat of Mr. Freeman, 
 expands itself in great beauty, covering a 
 fine undulating range of hills with its 
 plantations, woods, and terraces, and 
 commanding a variety of beautiful pros- 
 pects, in which the bold sweep formed by 
 the Thames, with its two subsequent long 
 reaches, and the church, with the town 
 of Henley, present the principal objects. 
 Charming drives penetrate these woods, 
 and follow the terraces with excellent de- 
 sign, leading each way to the house. 
 
33^ BIVERS AND COAST 
 
 which stands in the flat near the river. 
 Buckinghamshire soon succeeds to Ox- 
 fordshire, where a small stream descends 
 from the north to the Thames, passing by 
 the pleasant village of Hambleden, whose 
 ornamented parsonage and venerable old 
 hall command delightful views. I must 
 break the thread of my description here, 
 to speak in grateful remembrance, with 
 a merited degree of enthusiasm, of the 
 friendly and hospitable reception I for 
 many years found at the hall- house of 
 Hambleden, then occupied by my amiable 
 relation Mr. Lock wood, when it was con- 
 stantly the scat of cheerfulness and good- 
 humour, dispensing to a numerous family 
 and assemblage of friends all the choicest 
 blessings of society. 
 
 On the opposite shore of Berkshire 
 stands the handsome mansion of Culham 
 Court, with its pleasant appendage of 
 Rose-Hill, and Buckinghamshire soon 
 again claims our notice by the ivied walls 
 of Medmenham Abbey, consecrated some 
 years ago to a novel kind of mockery of 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. g^y 
 
 monastic institutions. Delightful woods 
 cover all this tract of country, through 
 which various drives are connected with 
 the great road, crossing it to the seats of 
 Danesfield and Harleford. The former 
 of these, surrounded by an antient en- 
 campment, crowns a hill immediately 
 above Medmenham, and the latter, en- 
 vironed by various swelling groves, oc- 
 cupies a knowl of extreme verdure rising 
 gently above the Thames. This charming 
 river now appears in all its glory, tra- 
 versing a more extensive vale, and wash- 
 ing almost the walls of Bysham Abbey 
 in Berkshire, as it approaches the old 
 town of Marlow in Buckinghamshire, 
 placed beneath a noble hill on the Berk- 
 shire side, which is thickly overspread for 
 a great extent from its summit to its base 
 with beech woods. At the extremity of 
 this vale, it is joined by a small stream 
 near the village of Woborn, which de- 
 scends from the interior of Buckingham- 
 shire from the north-west, ornamenting 
 the fine seat of West Wycombe in its 
 Z 
 
SSS RTVERS AND COAST 
 
 passage, and flowing through the Mar- 
 quis of Lansdown's lawns near High Wy- 
 combe. 
 
 This is indeed an interesting country, 
 both in its aspect, in its seats, and in the 
 character of its inhabitants, new objects 
 starting up on every side to command our 
 attention. Surrounded by woods, the 
 antient town of Beaconsfield exhibits its 
 venerable church and wide street, above 
 which the elegant retirement of the late 
 Edmund Burke fronts the classic ground 
 of Hall-Barn, the old seat of the Waller 
 family, which preserves a happy mixture 
 of the formal magnificence of antient 
 gardening, united with some nice touches 
 of modern improvement, within its spa- 
 cious outline. Every thing here perpetu- 
 ates the memory of the poet, the favour- 
 ite haunts of his meditation being still 
 recorded, his bench and his dell preserved 
 with care, and his tomb regarded with 
 veneration. The house also was the seat 
 of hospitality in the life-time of its late 
 worthy owner, Mr. Waller, where, dur- 
 
 7 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^^g 
 
 ing a long course of years, I experienced 
 the same kindness and attention which I 
 before commemorated at Hambleden, 
 both these neighbouring famiHes being 
 nearly allied, and keeping up the plea- 
 santest intercourse with each other. 
 
 It is a melancholy pleasure to retrace 
 these interesting scenes, where the fervid 
 imagination of youth and the society of 
 friends (who are now either no more, 
 or removed from these once-favoured 
 spots) combined to create charms which 
 can never be renewed when life inclines 
 towards its descent. Favoured by these 
 circumstances, I had frequent opportuni- 
 ties of surveying the delightful spots of 
 Hambleden and Hall-Barn, with their 
 vicinage, in the most interesting manner, 
 and of repeatedly pervading the whole 
 surrounding country in those various ex- 
 cursions of walks and rides, which a 
 cheerful domestic circle, enlivened by a 
 succession of friendly visitors, is sure to 
 inspire. This second digression, flowing 
 from the same source with my former, 
 Z2 
 
34^ RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 must be defended by the same apology 
 of gratitude for the past ; it has led me in 
 each instance to a short distance from 
 the banks of the Thames, to which it is 
 now time to return. 
 
 The upland country, which encircles 
 the groves and thick woods of Penn, 
 Hampden, and Beaconsfield, terminates 
 towards the west and the south in a wav- 
 ing line of hills, facing on one side the 
 vale of Marlow, and on the other the 
 more spacious plain bounded by the emi- 
 nences of Windsor Park and Forest, in 
 front of which the regal display of their 
 Castle makes a most impressive figure. 
 Throughout the whole of these two dif- 
 ferent vales the windings of the Thames 
 form the most interesting features, and 
 the command which this eminence ob- 
 tains over that great river, with its rich 
 surrounding scenery, has covered it pro- 
 fusely with the seats of the noble and 
 opulent. 
 
 Dropomore Hill, the new creation of 
 Lord Grenville, fronts Windsor Castle 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 34I 
 
 directly, its contiguity to which, as well 
 as its easy distance from the metropolis, 
 and the charms of the surrounding 
 country, prove the taste and judgment 
 which formed it for the occasional retire- 
 ment of a minister of state from the du- 
 ties of his office. The neighbouring and 
 connected territories of Taplow andClieff- 
 den, have still superior points of view 
 from their bold positions, and the latter 
 in particular embellishes a long reach of 
 the Thames, which terminates in the 
 stately stone bridge of Maidenhead, with 
 an almost perpendicular bank of rich 
 wood, decorated with temples and other 
 ornamental buildings. These places are 
 too well known to need a minute descrip- 
 tion from my pen, but one sequestered 
 spot at CliefFden, where a clear spring 
 under the covert of a thick wood bursts 
 forth and joins the river, should not be 
 unnoticed. To those who navigate the 
 Thames for pleasure, its retired position, 
 the coolness of its surrounding shades, 
 and its access to the numerous walks of 
 
 Z3 
 
342 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 the place, abundantly recommend it. 
 Hedsor-house, the seat of Lord Boston, 
 is the last of these magnificent villas 
 towards the west, and principally fronts 
 the vale leading to Marlow, though it has 
 some command of the other sweep of the 
 river, and the scenery about Windsor. It 
 is a large pile, surrounded by considerable 
 rising plantations on a high ridge, de- 
 scending precipitately into the level at a 
 short distance from Woborn, and near 
 the spot where the Thames makes its sud- 
 den turn to approach Maidenhead Bridge 
 beneath the wooded bank of Clieffden. 
 That river has here formed an island, 
 which Sir George Young has not only 
 planted and adorned, but even embel- 
 lished with a handsome house, connect- 
 ing it by a bridge with the Berkshire 
 shore. Though a singular position for a 
 residence, this new creation must give an 
 additional beauty to this striking part of 
 the Thames, as the plantations grow up ; 
 the pleasant retired village of Cookham is 
 close to it, and the town of Maidenhead, 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 343 
 
 in the descent of the river, not far dis- 
 tant. 
 
 We may now be considered as almost 
 satiated with the beautiful scenery, which 
 from Wallingford for so long and circu- 
 itous a tract has embellished the banks of 
 the Thames; and nature seems for a while 
 to repose in one of those dead flats, which 
 often follow her exertions in emerging 
 from the mountains and vallies she has 
 formed, into a spacious level. Other ob- 
 jects, now, however, arrest our attention, 
 without being attracted by the mimic 
 display of Monkey Island, further than 
 regards its whimsical singularity in shew- 
 ing so many resemblances of that animal 
 to man. There is, indeed, nothing else 
 in that flat district to entice the eye, 
 which, languishing for the fine scenes it 
 has left behind, views the great expanse 
 before it almost with horror, and dwells 
 with momentary amusement on any 
 trifle which it can seize in its passage. 
 This idea can alone account for the intro- 
 duction of an exhibition so totally con- 
 Z 4 
 
344 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 trary to the nature of the country in 
 which it is placed, and so full of absur- 
 dity in every other point of observation. 
 
 After a short progress, not far from the 
 broad Tower of Bray, once memorable for 
 its politic vicar, bolder objects, of a dif- 
 ferent kind from any we have passed, 
 begin to occupy the whole of our atten- 
 tion, and the numerous towers of Windsor 
 Castle, from the proud elevation of its 
 rock, form an assemblage of commanding 
 features, which are in no other direction 
 approached with so strong an effect as 
 across this great intervening flat. The 
 noble edifice of Eton College, backed by 
 its venerable groves, and ever-interesting 
 to so many of the first youths in England, 
 create a striking addition to the vast ob- 
 ject in front, as it enlarges to our view 
 with the extended display of its nume- 
 rous bastions and St. George's Chapel, 
 backed by the town of Windsor and the 
 eminences of its great Park and Forest, 
 which now form a grand and striking 
 outline. Gray's elegant ode impresses 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 345 
 
 itself forcibly on a stranger % recollection, 
 as he approaches at Eton its consecrated 
 objects ; how much more powerfully then 
 must an Etonian feel it, when he reviews 
 '^ the antique towers, the distant spires, the 
 jields helovd in vainf An air of supe- 
 rior grandeur and propriety marks the 
 whole of this pile, far beyond our other 
 similar foundations, for Westminster has 
 nothing in architecture, except its Abbey, 
 to boast of; and Winchester, though 
 princely in its endowment, and venerable 
 in its antiquity, is but an irregular mass, 
 when compared with Eton. The beauty 
 also of this situation on the Thames in full 
 view of Windsor and its groves, which 
 inspire a pleasing gloom unmixed with 
 melancholy, cannot fail of striking for- 
 cibly on the imagination. 
 
 The royal palace of Windsor Castle 
 rises in grandeur as we approach it, and 
 the view from its terrace (which sur- 
 rounds it every where, except to the 
 west) is most commanding as well as 
 beautiful, taking in an immense outline 
 
346 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 over a number of counties, and limited 
 only towards the south by the spacious 
 amphitheatre formed by the wooded hills 
 of its Park and Forest, To describe the 
 features of a spot so well know^n, and so 
 constantly visited, is unnecessary ; where- 
 fore I shall close my account with this 
 appropriate observation, that the Thames 
 forms a principal feature throughout the 
 great expanse below, and that the im- 
 mense plain through which it rolls ap- 
 pears the work of its creation, as this 
 superb river collects its tributary forces, 
 and seems to march in state tow^ards the 
 metropolis of our island. 
 

 
 
 i6 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 
 Vs!.^ziu 
 
 ■ ^ 
 
 / 
 
 
 W3rombe<^ "^^ 
 
 ^...^ 
 
 
 "'""'ST E R K /^^ X /^^^ 
 
 t 
 
 
 
 
 ^>j 
 
 
 
 
 "^ 
 
 
 / ^ 
 
 L^^ 
 
 Bo>'Sate4 
 
 ) GnzuroRB 
 
 "^-v-"""^ 
 
 
 i» 
 
 \ 
 
 
 _/ X 
 
 r^- 
 
 7/> to 
 
 .fw 
 
 
 ' yy/yy/.// ./Ky,-..- 
 
 — 1 
 
 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 347 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 The Thames, and its auxiliary streams, 
 contmued — Vast plain traversed ^ the 
 Thames helow Wmdsor — Cooper s Hill, 
 
 / Runny-Mead, Egham, Stanes, and hale- 
 ham — Mr, Fox's seat on St. Anns Hill 
 near Chertsey — Fine prospect from that 
 eminence — Still greater view from the 
 ridge of St. George's Hill — Jwiction of 
 The Colne and the Wey with the 
 Thames — Wohorn Farm — hofd Port- 
 more s seat at Weyhridge — Tlie Diike of 
 York's fine place of Oatlands, and its 
 Grotto — AshleyP ark— Walton on Thames, 
 and the villas on its common — Walton 
 Bridge, and the adjacent seat of Lord 
 Tankerville — Desce?it of the Thames to 
 Sunbury and Hampton — The late Mr. 
 Garrick's Villa, and Temple of Shak- 
 speare — Hampton Court Palace, its Gar- 
 
34^ RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 den, and its Parks — Junction of The 
 Mole of Surry with the Thames — The 
 pecidiar character of that romantic river, 
 its winding course, and the seats and 
 towns zvhich adorn its hanks — Thames 
 Ditton — Kings to? I — Ham — Petersham- 
 superb villas aho7it Twickenham, Isle- 
 worth, and Richmond — Delightful view 
 from Richmond Hill — Richmond Park, 
 and the site of its Palace — Richmond 
 Gardens, and the opposite view of Sion 
 House with its Park, Sion Hill, and 
 Osterley Park, 
 
 Emerging with the Thames from the 
 groves and splendid towers of Windsor, 
 we observe the ridge, which before formed 
 a distant boundary on the Buckingham- 
 shire side, gradually losing itself in the 
 blue horizon, and the level becoming 
 imbounded, except where the insulated 
 hill of Harrow exhibits its lofty spire 
 amidst tufted groves, and the more dis- 
 tant heights of Hampstead and Highgate 
 appear in the back ground. The Surry 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIIS'. 349 
 
 shore is far more elevated, and the bold 
 eminence of Cooper's Hill, protruding 
 from the extreme point of Windsor Park 
 before the many ornamented villas of 
 Englefield Green, form a striking barrier 
 at last to the plain on the south. Beneath 
 it, the Thames washes the verdant level of 
 Runny Mead, memorable of yore for the 
 - signature of Magna Charta, but now 
 chiefly distinguished by being the spot on 
 which Egham races are celebrated. A 
 little below, the new and handsome stone 
 bridges of Stanes and Chertsey divide 
 Surry from Middlesex, between which 
 Laleham exhibits the singular feature of 
 a ruined and almost deserted village, 
 close to the river Thames, and in the 
 midst of a populous and flourishing 
 country. Mr. Wood's extensive groves, 
 surrounding his old seat at Littleton, 
 cover a large tract of this level behind 
 Laleham on the east ; and on the south- 
 west, the well-inhabited town of Chertsey 
 with its whitened church presents a dis- 
 tinguished object ; many respectable fa- 
 
S50 RIVERS AND. COAST 
 
 families have sought a residence in this 
 town and its vicinage, and the remains 
 of its antient abbey have long ago been 
 converted into a modern house. 
 
 This part of Surry and Middlesex is 
 particulary marked by abrupt hills, which, 
 rising in the midst of a vast plain, appear 
 when viewed from its distant boundaries 
 like islands elevating themselves from a 
 lake. Harrow, in the centre of the level 
 of Middlesex, is the most distinguished 
 of these eminences; and those of St. Anne 
 and St. George, in Surry, bear a similar 
 character, though they all differ in their 
 features materially. Harrow on the Hill, 
 so emphatically called, has the advantage 
 of a more extended flat around it, and 
 attracts the eye powerfully by the rich 
 groves which adorn its summit, and its 
 handsome spire, which in almost every 
 direction appears to emerge from them. 
 Thus it forms a peculiar land-mark to 
 the intervening flat, and the distant 
 heights which appear to bound it, rising 
 itself alone about ten miles on the north- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 35I 
 
 west of London ; but here the charm 
 ceases, for the view most commonly dis- 
 appoints the expecting traveller, objects 
 being universally w^anting in so vast an 
 expanse, as the wearied eye again and 
 again descries the circle. The towers and 
 domes of our capital, involved in smoke, 
 appear here in an unpleasant point of 
 view, not being relieved by any intervene- 
 ing shades of sufficient consequence, and 
 theThamesbeing invisible, except in time 
 of flood ; the ranges of the Kentish hills 
 and the Surry downs are too distant to 
 have their full effect as boundaries; and 
 the groves of Windsor, with its noble 
 fabric, no where appear so little impo- 
 sing, an arid and nearly uniform level 
 of cornfields and pastures insulating the 
 eminence, from whose abrupt rise Har- 
 row perhaps loses some of those advan- 
 tages which should be connected with 
 it, as a bird's sight view is seldom that 
 which a painter would select as most ex- 
 cellent in landscape. Harrow has, how- 
 ever, still to boast one of the most ex- 
 
35^ RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 tensive prospects this kingdom can shew; 
 and on the north, the ridge of Bushy 
 Heath, adjoining to Hertfordshire, cir- 
 cumscribes the horizon at a favourable 
 distance across the extensive commons 
 of Pinner, exhibiting some fine features ; 
 nor are Hampstead and Highgate too far 
 removed to be striking features. It can- 
 not also be too highly spoken of, when 
 viewed as an external object, even from 
 the most remote heights where it can be 
 discerned, its church and its wood being 
 most happily placed ; within, it contains 
 a school, which is excellently conducted, 
 and has rivalled our greater foundations 
 frequently in the scholars, with whom it 
 has frequently done honour to the Britifh 
 establishments for the education of youth. 
 St. Anne's Hill starts up abruptly on 
 the south-west of Chertsey, having once 
 also been the site of a monastery, which 
 w^as once I understand dependant on the 
 other, and of which there are yet some 
 small remains on the extreme point of 
 the eminence. The lower parts of it are 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 353 
 
 cloathed with wood, but the ridge is al- 
 most level, after it gets above the en- 
 closures, presenting a delightfully-verdant 
 vs^alk to the neighbourhood, and termi- 
 nating in two venerable elms, where the 
 descent is almost perpendicular into the 
 plain. The prospect here is more happily 
 marked than at Harrow, yet wonderfully 
 extensive, except towards the south and 
 west, where the blufF point of Cooper's 
 Hill excludes the view of Windsor, and 
 the bare ridges of Bagshot Heath circum- 
 scribe the horizon. On the east, the 
 Surry Downs appear well ranged behind 
 the nearer heathy ridge of St. George's 
 hills, and with the eminences of Norwood, 
 Sydenham, and the more distant summit 
 of Shooter's hill in Kent, together with 
 those of Highgate, Hampstead, Bushy, 
 and Harrow^ in Middlesex, form the 
 outline of that immense plain, in which 
 the dome of St. Paul's Cathedral, and 
 the lofty pile of Westminster Abbey, 
 enveloped in perpetual smoke, mark the 
 proud position of the metropolis of Eng- 
 Aa 
 
354 RIVERS AND COA.ST 
 
 land, surrounded by a numerous tribe of 
 villages, and a most abundant population. 
 The Thames here shews itself to great 
 advantage, making a bold sweep to ap- 
 proach Chertsey Bridge, and intersecting 
 the plain with its various meanders. A 
 little under this terrace, encircled by 
 plantations, and adorned with the most 
 exquisite taste of classic decoration, 
 stands the delightful villa which forms 
 the retirement of the Hon. Charles 
 James Fox. Observations on political 
 characters are altogether foreign to the 
 design of this \vork, or the disposition of 
 its author, especially, as he is no farther ac- 
 quainted with the gentleman now men- 
 tioned, than by having accidentally met 
 him many years ago at Berne in Switzer- 
 land, and there passed a few hours in his 
 company. He had then a short oppor- 
 tunity of witnessing those convivial ta- 
 lents, and that happy ease of manner for 
 which Mr. Fox has been so long and 
 justly admired, and by which so many 
 have been fascinated. In this elegant re- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 355 
 
 treat, that once-busy statesman is said to 
 forget his public occupations, and amuse 
 himself with rural sports, and literary 
 pursuits. Neither is his retirement soli- 
 tary or unsociable, for various youths of 
 high consequence in his line of politics, 
 are his frequent visitors, and some of the 
 most respectable families in his vicinage 
 have formed that strong attachment to 
 him, vs^hich his talents are prone to create, 
 and his manners to rivet most forcibly. 
 
 St. George's Hill presents an oblong 
 ridge in the midst of those wild com- 
 mons which extend, with little intervals, 
 from Walton and Weybridge, almost to 
 Bagshot, occupying in its range nearly 
 the whole space from Weybridge to 
 Cobham. It is of very considerable mag- 
 nitude, running out into vast angles, 
 which protrude themselves into the plain 
 between deep hollows, and its summit is 
 almost entirely level, being marked by a 
 few clumps of firs at certain distances 
 from each other, and adorned with turfed 
 drives winding round the angles, which 
 A a ^ 
 
35^ RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 are understood to have been originally 
 made by the Portmore family. They are 
 curiously contrived, pervading every part 
 of this ridge in circular mazes, so as to vary 
 the scenery delightfully, and to present 
 a charming airing to the vicinage. On 
 the south-west angle are the perfect 
 remains of a very considerable Roman 
 encampment, w^hich is attributed by Mr. 
 Gough, in his fine edition of Camden's 
 Britannia, to Caefar, who is supposed to 
 have crossed the Thames below Oatlands. 
 St. George's Hill is not only greatly 
 larger, but considerably higher than that of 
 St. Anne, though it rises so imperceptibly 
 at first from the plain that this circum- 
 stance does not immediately impress it- 
 self as you advance towards it. Its upper 
 parts are more abrupt, and in some of 
 the hollows almost perpendicular ; when 
 viewed from a-distance its elevation is most 
 distinguishable, as all its protruding angles 
 then appear united in one mass, stretch- 
 ing across the horizon, and differently 
 featured from all the eminences of this 
 country. The prospect it commands is 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^^y 
 
 almost unbounded over Middlesex, Buck- 
 inghamshire, Hertfordshire, Essex, and 
 Kent, to the north and east, but Cooper's 
 Hill and Bagshot Heath form a strong, 
 though by no means a near, outline on 
 the west, beyond which (towards the 
 south) the ridge called ^' The Hog's Back,'' 
 between Guildford and Farnham, termi- 
 nates in a bold clump, and the points of 
 the Htnd-head Hills, in Sussex, on the 
 Portsmouth road, rise to view, piled on 
 each other like Pelion over Ossa. From 
 this clump, above Guildford, the whole 
 range of the Surry Downs extends in a 
 waving line, rising abruptly with the 
 high street of that county town from the 
 bridge over the IVey, which forms the in- 
 termediate valley, to a very considerable 
 eminence. These bold summits create 
 the southern boundary to St. George's 
 Hill as far as Croydon, distinguished by 
 various plantations, and a great number 
 of fine parks and seats, beyond which 
 some distant parts of Kent close the pros- 
 pect, as the eye in its circle approaches 
 Aa3 
 
358 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 the east, one of which (near Sevenoaks) 
 is crowned with the singular clump of 
 The KiiockJiolt Beeches. Richmond Hill, 
 appearing to advance from the east beau- 
 tifully towards the eye, cloathed with 
 thick groves, hides London from our 
 view, but its attendant cloud denotes the 
 position of the capital, and the two hills 
 of Highgate and Hampstead appear in 
 their usual bold display as we pursue the 
 circle towards the north gradually. Har- 
 row on the Hill takes a prominent position 
 in this level, backed by the ridges of 
 Bushy Heath and Moor Park ; westward 
 again from the north, a very high and 
 distant spot in Buckinghamshire is 
 marked with a clump planted by the late 
 Lord Despenser, not far from Wycombe, 
 and called Whittington Park. Few points 
 in England command so extended an 
 horizon ; and the almost desert wildness, 
 which prevails on the west and the south, 
 is singularly contrasted by the numerous 
 towns, villages, and cultivated districts 
 on each other side. Some of the nearer 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 359 
 
 objects are peculiarly striking, among 
 which the majestic pile of Windsor 
 Castle stands pre-eminent ; the great 
 mass of Hampton Court Palace also makes 
 a conspicuous figure, and the groves and 
 shrubberies of St. Anne*s Hill finely over- 
 hang the tovs^n of Chertsey. Below, the 
 Thames winds in several bold sweeps 
 through the meads which separate Shep- 
 perton from Weybridge, beneath the park 
 of Lord Portmore, and the long-extended 
 plantations of Oatlands. 
 
 The Colne advances from the north to 
 meet the Thames near Stanes, making a 
 great compass by the east as it traverses 
 this level. Rising under the Chiltern 
 hills not far from Dunstable, it first flows 
 towards the south-west, passing between 
 the eminence on which the remains of 
 Verulam are visible, and the opposite hill 
 covered with the town and venerable 
 Abbey of St. Albans. At Rlckmans- 
 worth it forms a charming valley be- 
 neath the groves of Moor Park, whose 
 splendid, though heavy edifice, was ori- 
 A a 4 
 
360 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 ginally built by Sir John Vanbrugh for 
 our naval hero Lord Anson. The Gade 
 from Berkhampstead, and the Misshourn 
 from Amersham, with various similar 
 small streams, join it in its course to 
 Uxbridge, the Misshourn pervading a sweet 
 vale, confined between beech woods, and 
 decorated with a noble sheet of water at 
 Mr. Drake's fine place of Shardelois, op- 
 posite to which the ornamented grounds 
 surrounding the parsonage of Amersham 
 rise in great beauty above that neat town. 
 Below Uxbridge, The Cohie falls into a 
 flat, which continues to the junction of 
 its principal branch with the Thames near 
 Stanes ; another division of it traverses 
 the extensive level of Hounslow Heath 
 by Stanwell and Feltham, and at last 
 crosses a part of Bushy Park to meet the 
 Thames near Teddington. 
 
 The Wey rises in two branches in the 
 eastern part of Hampshire, bordering on 
 Surry, one of which forms a pleasant vale 
 to Farnham. After their union, their 
 course is eastward by Godalming, till 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 361 
 
 joined by a third stream from the south, 
 after which the Wey flows northward, a 
 little incUned to the east, by the hilly 
 town of Guildford, and through Lord 
 Portmore's park, to reach the Thames be- 
 low the pleasant village of Weybridge. 
 This little river flows for the most part 
 through an undistinguished level below 
 Guildford, and is joined by the two canals 
 of the Basingstoke and Guildford navi- 
 gation near the end of its course ; a small 
 stream from Chobbham also meets it, pas- 
 sing beneath a waving ridge covered with 
 the plantations and fine seats of Ottershaw 
 and Botleys, and surrounded by wild 
 heaths, in the centre of which that great 
 expanse of water, called the Shire Pond, 
 swells almost into the dignity of a lake. 
 
 The Thames, in the mean while, ad- 
 vances in stately grandeur through the 
 handsome stone pile of Chertsey bridge, 
 from whence a most beautiful and ver- 
 dant amphitheatre on the Surry bank 
 marks its progress, ornamented with the 
 elegant display of Woborn farm, (the 
 
^Sz RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 creation of Mr. Southcote,) Lord Port- 
 more's well- wooded park, and the far 
 more striking outline of Oatlands. That 
 place was formed with exquisite taste and 
 design by the late Duke of Newcastle, 
 who augmented it greatly by subsequent 
 additions from the common of Walton, 
 which are likely to be still further in- 
 creased by a general inclosure. Planta- 
 tions of every kind flourish eminently in 
 this paradise, extending in an easy wav- 
 ing line from Weybridge to Walton 
 Bridge, and adorned with a noble sheet 
 of water, which was very judiciously 
 made to appear connected with the 
 Thames, The Grotto of Oatlands has 
 been deservedly admired as a fine work 
 of art, and the sequestered dell in which 
 it is placed, on a small lawn overshadowed 
 with a thick grove, still farther recom- 
 mends it ; but the grand terrace in front 
 of the house forms the most striking fea- 
 ture in this noble place. It was originally 
 a strait walk in the old formal style of 
 gardening, but the Duke of Newcastle 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. g6^ 
 
 Tery wisely modernized it into a grassy 
 lawn, descending occasionally in fine 
 hollows towards the water, and still pre- 
 serving its pristine magnificence, but 
 without the offensive appendage of ex- 
 treme regularity. The ground is every 
 where most happily disposed, sinking 
 occasionally into the most charming ver- 
 dant hollows, and marked with a profu- 
 sion of the finest old trees, admirably 
 placed to embellish the landscape. The 
 prospect it commands towards St. Anne's 
 Hill, Cooper's Hill, and the outline of 
 Buckinghamshire, Middlesex, and Hert- 
 fordshire, is much the same with that 
 already described from St. George's Hill, 
 v/hich overhangs it, but still more dis- 
 tinct in its outline of objects, as they are 
 taken from a less elevated point. The 
 nearer scenery is astonishingly beautiful, 
 where the Thames rolls between its ena- 
 melled meadows, dividing the counties 
 of Middlesex and Surry, crossed at last by 
 the high arches of Walton bridge, beyond 
 which a further reach is distinguishable 
 
364 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 almost as far as Sunbury. Oatlands is 
 now the residence of his Royal Highness 
 the Duke of Ycrk, who has lately added 
 considerably to the house in a species of 
 Gothic, casing the whole with stone, but 
 without aiming apparently at any mate- 
 rial effect, beyond that of convenience and 
 elegance. Its position being near the 
 centre of the terrace, great powers of 
 architecture as well as expence must 
 have been required to create a palace 
 equal to the spot it commands, and it 
 may have been more judicious to avoid 
 attracting the eye by the figure and re- 
 gularity of a superb pile, which might at 
 last fall short of its effect. On an op- 
 posite projection of the terrace, the Duke 
 of Newcastle had built the shell of a 
 magnificent circular chapel and mauso- 
 leum, crowned with a dome, but it re- 
 mains yet unfinished ; a thick wood suc- 
 ceeds, where the walk connects itself 
 with the drive, which passes through the 
 park on the opposite side of the house, 
 some fine sweeps of the Thames being 
 
^ 
 
 OF GREA.T BRITAIN. 365 
 
 visible, as the road advances to the two 
 lodges, which form the principal entrance 
 to this place, close to Walton bridge. 
 
 Ashley Park, the seat of Sir Henry 
 Fletcher, here closes in with Oatlands, 
 covering a large tract of ground adjoin- 
 ing to Walton, and exhibiting much of 
 the magnificence of former times, con- 
 nected with the hospitality of the past 
 and present. The house is a large pile, 
 built originally by Wolsey, and added to, 
 as well as modernized, by the late Lord 
 Shannon, though not quite in an appro- 
 priate style with the old structure, Italian 
 windows being substituted for the antient 
 English, and heavy parapets replacing in 
 parts the pointed roofs of our forefathers. 
 The hall, gallery, and kitchen, are noble 
 apartments in a singular style, and the 
 park, w4th the gardens, (w^alled in on 
 every side, except towards Oatlands and 
 the common,) abound in fine old trees 
 and evergreens, which shade some grand 
 terraces ; there are also several striking 
 avenues, and one in particular, w^hich 
 
 9 
 
^66 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 leads to the house from Walton, is dis- 
 tinguishable by a happy curve about its 
 centre, whereby its effect is much im- 
 proved. 
 
 The outskirts of the common adjoin- 
 ing to Ashley Park are decorated with 
 several handsome villas, among which 
 one superbly fitted up and highly orna- 
 mented by Mr. Peppin, is by far the most 
 extensive in its domain. In a smaller, 
 well laid out by its late owner, Mr. Shak- 
 spear, the author of these sheets has (as 
 a tenant) pursued his lucubrations for 
 some years, looking from its front towards 
 the distant range of the Surry Dow^ns, and 
 the nearer ridge of St. George's Hill, op- 
 posite to Sir John Frederick's Park across 
 a smiling common, soon alas ! to be pol- 
 luted by the formality of modern enclo- 
 sures. Some fcw^ shrubberies which he 
 has found a pleasure in creating and em- 
 bellishing, and a handsome open grove of 
 elms leading to a planted mount, on 
 which a small pavilion dedicated to soli- 
 tude commands the contrasted views over 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 367 
 
 Middlesex towards Sunbury and Rich- 
 mond Hill, form the favorite features of 
 this pleasant little spot. The considerable 
 village of Walton, extending in three 
 straggling streets happily intermixed with 
 trees and fields, covers a large tract of 
 ground between the common, Ashley 
 Park, and the Thames-, the venerable fabric 
 and tower of its church appear to much 
 advantage at its eastern extremity, backed 
 by some old trees, and the pleasing retreat 
 of its parsonage is an agreeable object, 
 opening to a delightful view behind, 
 being much improved by its present 
 worthy incumbent, the Rev. Mr. D'Oyly. 
 Walton Bridge is a bold structure of 
 brick with stone facings, but appears ra- 
 ther deficient in ornament and too plain 
 for the importance of its size ; its effect 
 also is much lessened by a large white 
 house on the Middlesex side, which was 
 once an inn, but now is become a gen- 
 tleman's seat, advancing almost to the 
 very arches. A long-connecting cause- 
 way over a channel, which seems once to 
 
368 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 have been the bed of the river, and is 
 still covered in times of flood, unites this 
 bridge with the Surry shore, where the 
 villa of Lord Tankerville stands imme- 
 diately opposite to the gates of Oatlands. 
 In the delightful grounds which surround 
 this place, the bank of the T^hames is de- 
 corated for a considerable space with a 
 terrace admirably planted and designed, 
 from whence a noble reach of that river, 
 terminating in the cupola of Sunbury 
 Church, is commanded with good effect. 
 His Lordship's kitchen gardens are very 
 extensive, and he has been uncommonly 
 successful in the choice and culture of 
 his evergreens and exotics, which are su- 
 perior to most collections. 
 
 Sunbury, on the Middlesex bank, may 
 truly be called a " Village Ornce^" 
 abounding in splendid seats, most of 
 which are finely situated so as to front 
 the Thames ; of these a house of Mr. 
 Boheme in the centre of that pleasant 
 village, and Barwell Park, a superb man- 
 sion at the eastern extremity of it, (ere- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIlSr. 369 
 
 ated formerly by Lord Pomfret,) are most 
 conspicuous. This place also is remark- 
 able for one of the best scholastic esta- 
 blishments I have known on experience, 
 where more than feventy boys of the 
 first families in England profit materially 
 during their early years, by the uncom- 
 mon care and attention bestowed on them 
 by Dr. and Mrs. Moore, pursuing their 
 studies and sports with the utmost regu- 
 larity, and rapidly advancing themselves 
 so as to be fitted for the greater fields of 
 Eton, Westminster, and Winchester. 
 Kempen-Park, the seat of Sir John Mus- 
 grave, full of avenues, fine trees, and lux- 
 uriant hawthorns, occupies all the high 
 ground between Sunbury and Hampton, 
 where the memory of Garrick is perpetu- 
 ated by his elegant villa with its garden, 
 and the temple dedicated by him to 
 Shakspcare. This handsome edifice, in 
 the Grecian taste, and situated at the 
 edge of a small sloping lawn, which is 
 well sprinkled with weeping willows and 
 evergreens, looks across the verdant ex- 
 Bb 
 
370 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 panse of Molesey Hurst to the wooded 
 hills of Esher and Claremont, command- 
 ing a noble reach of the river, which ter- 
 minates in the light wooden bridge of 
 Hampton Court, the Middlesex bank 
 being profusely cloathed with the long- 
 extended groves of Bushy Park. The 
 numerous turrets of the great palace of 
 Hampton Court appear in a fine confused 
 mass of Gothic buildings at the extremity, 
 and though irregular, bear a very vene- 
 rable aspect. The modern fronts, towards 
 the park and garden, have that formal 
 kind of magnificence whicn prevailed in 
 the reign of their founders Charles II. and 
 his immediate successors, containing also 
 a very superb range of apartments. These 
 two fronts, meeting in a right angle, 
 overlook the Thames across the park and 
 gardens, both of which (being quite flat) 
 are laid out in the regular style of those 
 ages. Some of the avenues and single trees 
 in Hampton Court Park are very grand, 
 but the great walk of chesnuts (surround- 
 ing a large basin) in the contiguous royal 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 371 
 
 park of Bushy is more striking, and the 
 luxuriance of its hawthorns is very re-^ 
 markable. 
 
 The Mole of Surry brings a considerable 
 accession of waters to the Thames, oppo- 
 site to Hampton Court, and is the one 
 of its auxiUary streams which most merits 
 a specific description, being more like the 
 rivers that are produced in mountainous 
 districts, than those which pervade the 
 central plains of England. The Mole rises 
 in the forest of Tilgate, just within the 
 borders of Sussex, pursuing first a north- 
 ern direction, and then inclining west- 
 ward to Dorking, northward again to 
 Leatherhead, after which it makes 
 a considerable compass by the west 
 to the north to encompass Cobham. 
 Though the course of this river is short, 
 its windings are very numerous, and 
 it has the peculiar attribute of bury- 
 ing itself in many places underground, 
 and after pursuing a subterraneous course 
 for some miles, bursting again into sight. 
 The spots where this incident takes 
 
37^5 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 place, bear the denomination of " The 
 ^wallows,''' and from hence the Mole 
 seems to have obtained its name. It 
 flows at first through a flat and rather 
 uninteresting country, till it approaches 
 that great barrier of downs which ex- 
 tends through the whole of this part of 
 Surry, proudly overlooking the wooded 
 flat of Sussex. The Mole, passing beneath 
 the venerable groves and avenues of 
 Betchworth Castle, enters into one of 
 these defiles near Dorking, where it is 
 joined by another stream issuing from 
 between the Guildford downs and the 
 heathy hills bordering upon Sussex in the 
 west, and passing between the park of 
 Sir Frederic Evelyn, and the plantations 
 of Mr. Lomax. It then forms a most 
 romantic valley beneath the almost-per- 
 pendicular height of Box-hill, (an emi- 
 nence extraordinarily covered throughout 
 with that shrub, which here arises to the 
 dignity of a tree,) nor can a more delight- 
 ful scene in nature be described than this 
 narrow stripe of beauty between two 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 373 
 
 downish ranges, receiving a profusion of 
 ornament from the magnificent villas 
 which decorate it, with their structures 
 and their rich plantations. Dorking ap- 
 pears to great advantage from the high 
 hill on which Denblghs, the scat of Mr. 
 Denison, stands exalted, and Mr. Lock's 
 fine modern house of Norbury crowns 
 the summit of his beautifully-wooded 
 park, which descending in fine shelving 
 hollows overspread with evergreens, over- 
 looks the whole valley to Box-hill, with 
 the pleasant village of Mickleham and the 
 town of Dorking below, backed by the 
 bold elevation of the Leith hills on the 
 border of Sussex. At Leatherhead the 
 Mole makes its exit from the hills, and 
 winding through a range of commons by 
 Stoke, the old seat of Sir Francis Vincent, 
 almost encircles the village and shingled 
 spire of Cobham, as it winds through the 
 enchanting territory of Pains Hill. This 
 justly celebrated place was entirely the 
 creation of the late Hon. Mr. Hamilton, 
 >vho rescued it from a rude uninteresting 
 B b 3 
 
374 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 common, and embellished it with every 
 successful effort of taste and judgment. 
 Thick plantations cover all the steep 
 banks which incline to the Mole, fine 
 lawns are formed between them, and the 
 central hollow of these extensive grounds 
 is floated by a considerable lake. The 
 buildings are not numerous, but well de- 
 signed and happily placed, and the temple 
 of Bacchus in particular is a splendid 
 room. A very considerable house was 
 added by Mr. Bond Hopkins the late 
 proprietor, overlooking the Mole, and the 
 village of Cobham, opposite to the late 
 Lord Ligonier's Italian edifice of Cobham 
 Park. TJie Mole is here crossed by two 
 long bridges, after which it winds through 
 a plain intersected by large commons to 
 Esher, leaving Burwood Park, the seat of 
 Sir John Frederick, on the left, andClare- 
 mont on the right, where the superb man- 
 sion erected by the late Lord Clive occu- 
 pies a high eminence in the midst of its 
 extensive and well-wooded park. Esher 
 
 7 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 375 
 
 Place, built by Wolsey, but in later ages 
 the favourite spot 
 
 ** Where Kent and Nature vied for Pelham's love," 
 
 stands on a gentle elevation above tfie 
 Mole, undertwo finely-planted hills which 
 form its park, and distinguish this part 
 of the country from afar in every direc- 
 tion. Little of Wolsey's architecture is 
 discernible through the modernizing ad- 
 ditions of Mr. Pelham, but Esher Place 
 still preserves, without, the figure of a 
 castle. Its rooms are not so conveniently 
 disposed within as might be expected, 
 and its situation is too low to command 
 the country, nor is the place so well kept 
 as in former times. All the beauty of the 
 Mole ceases at Esher, from whence that 
 once-charming river winds in unobserved 
 sluggishness through an uninteresting flat 
 to the villages of West and East Molesey, 
 losing all the spirit of its original cha- 
 racter, till the Thames opens to receive it 
 opposite to Hampton Court. 
 
 A great circular sweep brings that 
 Bb4 
 
Sy6 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 noble river from the junction of the Mole 
 to the antient county town of Kingston 
 on Thames, and its miserable wooden 
 bridge, after which it rolls through a 
 range of broad meadows to Twickenham, 
 the richly- wooded heights of Richmond 
 Park overhanging the level in front, and 
 forming a magnificent back ground. 
 Villas here abound in every direction, and 
 the banks of the Thames from hence may 
 be said to be covered with palaces, fol- 
 lowing each other to the eye in rapid 
 sucession, as the stream advances. Straws- 
 berry Hill, a Gothic edifice formed with 
 a singular degree of taste by the late Lord 
 Orford, the elegant retirement of Alexan- 
 der Pope, and Marble Hall, are the most 
 striking of those on the Middlesex side, 
 while on that of Surry large avenues of 
 old trees distinguish Lord Dysart's an- 
 tient mansion. Petersham appears crowded 
 with fine houses intermixed w ith wood, 
 and Richmond shews its numerous villas 
 piled on each other, as the hill gradually 
 rises from the tow^n to the high- wooded 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^tll 
 
 summit of its park. The prospect from 
 this justly-celebrated height is too well 
 known to need minute description, com- 
 manding an infinite variety of views over 
 the countries already described, most hap- 
 pily disposed, and wonderfully abundant 
 in population. The nearer scene, how- 
 ever, is most enchanting, where the 
 broad silver stream of the Thames rolls in 
 majestic state, as well as placid beauty, 
 between the green meadows, w^ooded 
 precincts, and splendid villas of Ham, 
 Petersham, Twickenham, and Isleworth, 
 making a bold sweep to reach the ele- 
 gantly-formed stone bridge of Richmond. 
 Richmond Park covers an extensive and 
 high tract of ground above the town, 
 being throughout finely w^ooded, but 
 most profusely so to cover its abrupt de- 
 scent into the plain ; it is intersected by 
 numerous roads leading to its various 
 outlets, which present pleasurable walks 
 and drives to its populous neighbourhood. 
 Its Palace stood on the Green below the 
 tow n, but all the traces of it are now 
 
 9 
 
3/8 RIVERS ASD COAST 
 
 vanished, except the garden, which ex- 
 tends delightfully along the Surry bank 
 of the Thames to Kcw ; it w^as once in- 
 tended to have been rebuilt in the park, 
 but that design wa^ laid aside in favour 
 of the modern additions at Windsor ; yet 
 is it highly probable that some sovereign 
 of this kingdom will be tempted to re- 
 sume it, by the beauty of the spot, and 
 its commodious distance from London. 
 Nonsuch Palace, not many miles distant 
 from Richmond, in the same county, has 
 suffered a similar fate, and having passed 
 through the hands of several private pro- 
 prietors since its alienation from the 
 crown, no vestiges of it now remain, 
 except some old walls and avenues. Such 
 is the fate of palaces, as well as of more 
 humble buildings, the course of a few 
 centuries sweeping them from our eyes, 
 and either accident, or the instability of 
 their possessors, determining their pre- 
 mature fate. The gardens of Richmond, 
 notwithstanding, still exhibit occasionally 
 a splendid display of company, being 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^yg 
 
 opened to the public on stated days dur- 
 ing the summer ; their walks are then 
 crowded with an assemblage of modern 
 beaux and belles, not inferior, perhaps, to 
 those which graced the antient splendour 
 of the court of Richmond. 
 
380 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 CHAP, xviir. 
 
 The Thames, and its auxiliary streams, 
 concluded — Sion House — Ston Hill — Os- 
 terley — Accession of the Brent at Brent- 
 ford — Kew Bridge — Its Palace and Gar- 
 dens — Great increase of the Thames 07i 
 the acccession of the tide, and the union of 
 almost all its component streams above 
 
 London Chi s wick Hammersmith — 
 
 Putney and Fulham, ivith their Bridge — 
 Great ridge, adorned with the villas of 
 Roe-hampton, Putney Heath, and Wim- 
 hledon Common, with their various views 
 — The Vandal yj-^w Croydon — Waftdes- 
 worth, a?td Clapham, with its Common 
 — Batter sea and its Bridge — Chelsea and 
 its College — Gardens of Ranelagh and 
 Vauxhall — Magnificent approach to Lon- 
 don hy the River — Grand display of the 
 capital of England from Westminster and 
 Black-Friars Bridges — London Bridge ^ 
 
H K R*<r F OJ B. 1) '^ 
 rlon 
 
 HERTFOl 
 
 •vHatfieia. 
 SHI 
 
 E 
 
 Mid d/£ e sex 
 
 i 
 
 JSvidsh, JlUcs . 
 
■ »■.• . ••i»*^-*^»»'^; ■ ■ i •/. 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 381 
 
 audits shipping — Union of the L,c3,with 
 the Thames— TA^ Isle o/Dogs—Dept- 
 Jord — Greenwich, and its Hospital, with 
 its Park — Woolwich — Extensive view 
 from Shooters Hill — Finely-featured pros- 
 pect towards the interior of Kent — Mr. 
 Pitfs elevated seat on Holwood-Hill — 
 The Rodlng of Essex, with the Cray 
 and t\iz Dart in Kent — Extension of the 
 marshes as the Thames advances towards 
 the sea — Tilbury Fort, and Graves end — 
 The Fortress of Sheerness in the Isle of 
 Shepey, at the mouth of the Thames and 
 the Med way — Peculiar character of the 
 Thames, afid short recapitulation of the 
 several objects which create its importance. 
 
 Immediately opposite to the walks 
 of Richmond, Sion House, the princely 
 seat of the Duke of Northumberland, 
 displays on the Middlesex shore its large 
 quadrangle and towers in the midst of a 
 spacious park, and the delightful villa and 
 grounds of Sion Hill, (formed by the 
 late Lord Holdernesse,) attract the eye of 
 
^6Z RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 every passenger. The rich domain of 
 Osterley also glows with all the grandeur 
 arising from the opulence of successful 
 commerce, at the distance of about two 
 miles northward of the river; its me- 
 nagerie is peculiarly striking, and superior 
 to most in England, both in its extent, 
 and the management of its ground. 
 
 The Brent, flowing from the north- 
 east, and rising not far from Barnet, adds 
 the last stream of note to the Thames, 
 which it receives before it reaches Lon- 
 don. Except about Hendon (where the 
 exquisite taste of the late Mrs. Aislabie 
 created a fairy scene on its banks, 
 embellishing it occasionally with the 
 most magnificent display of festive deco- 
 ration, and the choicest selection of com- 
 pany) the Breftt is but an insignificant 
 river, and the long street of Brentford, 
 (to which it gives a name,) with its nu- 
 merous quays, does not add much beauty 
 to the Thames, though' it finay boast of 
 being the county town of Middlesex. 
 Kew-bridge, at its eastern extremity, is a 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 383 
 
 plain but handsome structure, and the 
 view it commands down the river towards 
 Chiswick is very striking and beautiful. 
 The present Palace of Kew, which was 
 the favourite residence of the late Princess 
 Dowager of Wales, is a plain building, 
 more like the house of a private gentle- 
 man, than the mansion of a prince ; his 
 present Majesty has at various periods of 
 his reign distinguished it by a temporary 
 residence, and is now said to meditate 
 building an appropriate palace, which will 
 amply replace the loss of that of Rich- 
 mond. The gardens of both these royal 
 establishments join, and those of Kew^ 
 are peculiarly to be admired for their ex- 
 otics, and a profusion of curious plants, 
 with several buildings, among which a 
 lofty,Chinese Pagoda is a conspicuous ob- 
 ject in every direction, as well as a per- 
 fect model of that oriental species of 
 architecture. These grounds are most 
 neatly kept, but they do not command 
 distant prospects, nor have they even a 
 view of the river, but this disadvantage 
 
386 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 very extensive views, that fronting the 
 north overlooking the river w^ith the 
 vast plains of Middlesex, Hertfordshire, 
 and Buckinghamshire, while that tow^ards 
 the w^est looks directly to the wooded 
 heights of Richmond Park, with an aslant 
 view of the Surry Downs, the Leith 
 Hills in Sussex, and those of Hind-head 
 on the borders of Hampshire,^ across a 
 singularly wild near ground, called Combe- 
 Wood. The southern ridge, as well as 
 a small portion of the western near the 
 village of Wimbledon, is covered with a 
 succession of charming villas, each of 
 which vies with its neighbour in beauty, 
 all commanding the range of the Surry 
 Downs, with their intermediate vale, in 
 great perfection, and one in particular, 
 (which belongs to Mr. Chalie) being dis- 
 tinguished by a grove most happily 
 placed, and a choice collection of plants, 
 exotics, and evergreens. The finely- 
 wooded park of Lord Spencer covers all 
 the eastern ridge^ presenting a consider- 
 able terrace also to the south, on which 
 
OF GREA.T BRITAIN. 387 
 
 stood that magnificent mansion, which 
 some years ago perished by fire, but is 
 now about to be replaced. The views 
 from this noble and extensive place are 
 singularly grand and varied, while the 
 near ground is ornamented with a superb 
 sheet of water, towards which the rich- 
 est plantations feather down amidst va- 
 rious sweet lawns and hollows, inter- 
 spersed with a profusion of timber. On 
 the south, the vale of Surry, with all its 
 villages, appears grandly backed by the 
 heathy ridges of Sydenham, and those 
 above Croydon, extending to the waving 
 line of the Downs as far as Leatherhead; 
 on the east that greater plain expands 
 itself beneath the still-advancing emi- 
 nences of Surry, through which the 
 Thames flows proudly towards the mighty 
 capital of England, whose numerous 
 towers and spires cover the whole hori- 
 zon, vastly surpassed in height and bulk 
 by St. Paul's Cathedral and Westminster 
 Abbey, and backed by the distant hills 
 of Highgate and Hampstead. 
 C c^ 
 
388 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 The little river Wandle descending to 
 the Thames at Wandsworth in a small ob- 
 scure stream, Battersea Rise and Clapham 
 Common terminate the high grounds on 
 the Surry side, which here at length be- 
 comes flat and marshy towards the river ; 
 both these eminences are overspread with 
 villas which command delightful pros- 
 pects, and some of these are very superb 
 as well as extensive in their grounds. 
 Through the modern wooden pile of Bat- 
 tersea Bridge the Thames proceeds in a 
 broad stream to divide that village from 
 Chelsea, where it forms one of its bold- 
 est reaches, often dangerous to boats in 
 storms. 
 
 This noble expanse of w^ater is most 
 perfectly commanded from the fine ter- 
 race and octagon building at the extre- 
 mity of the late Mr. Aufrere's delightful 
 garden. This superb villa was formed, 
 or greatly added to, by Lord Orford, when 
 prime minister, and has been still more 
 considerably improved by its late accom- 
 plished owner, who, together with his 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 389 
 
 worthy surviving lady, enlivened in this 
 elegant retirement the cheerful evening 
 of an active life with the charms of select 
 society, dispensing those of conversation, 
 enhanced by an impressive hospitality, in 
 which I have from my earliest years par- 
 taken. The collection of paintings here 
 does credit to the taste of those who 
 chose and arranged them ; the garden 
 also is laid out admirably, in the centre 
 of which a fine print-room overlooks the 
 Thames, taking in the distant hills of 
 Surry. Chelsea Collge is close adjoining, 
 with its three large fronts opening to the 
 river across an extensive garden ; this 
 highly-laudable institution is well con- 
 ducted, and the noble rooms of its chapel 
 and hall are worthy of notice, but it loses 
 something in figure by being built of red' 
 brick. The ornamented grounds of Ra- 
 nelagh adjoin to the garden of Chelsea 
 College, in the midst of w^hich its grand 
 rotunda starts up, often displaying a 
 second court of Comus to the Thames, 
 The not-insimilar scenic shew of Vaux- 
 Cc3 
 
390 riVers and coast 
 
 hall graces the opposite shore somewhat 
 lower, heyond which the river opens at 
 once upon the majestic arches of West- 
 minster Bridge, dividing the lofty piles 
 of its abbey and hall from the venerable 
 fabric of Lambeth Palace. 
 
 Such is the superb approach made by 
 this noble river to our capital, which for 
 more than five miles covers its banks with 
 a profusion of spires, towers, and palaces, 
 finely exhibited from the three bridges 
 of Westminster, Black-Friars, and Lon- 
 don. The bold sweep made by the Thames 
 between the two first of these bridges, 
 adds greatly to the effect of the whole, 
 and the vast Cathedral of St. Paul, with 
 its dome, proudly elevated above the 
 numerous churches of the city, appears 
 in all the pride of Grecian architecture. 
 The lofty pillar of the Monument, and 
 the high bastions of the Tower, front the 
 great borough of South wark below Lon- 
 don Bridge, where the view of the river 
 terminates in a crowd of shipping of all 
 i^ations, which apparently closes up its 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 39! 
 
 channel with a thick forest of masts. A 
 more minute description of such great 
 and well-known objects would be both 
 difficult and unnecessary, yet could not 
 they be passed over more cursorily in an 
 account of the Thames, and its striking 
 attendant scenery. 
 
 The populous appearance of a city by no 
 means terminates at the Tower, for the 
 suburb of Wapping unites with the out- 
 skirts of Stepney ; and Lyme-house, with 
 a train of houses and its lofty church, 
 covers the shores of Middlesex and Essex, 
 as they unite. On the opposite side, 
 Rotherhithe almost incorporates itself 
 with Southwark, and stretches out to 
 Deptford within the borders of Kent ; 
 all these places abound in public and pri- 
 vate docks towards the river, but a vast 
 design of improvement is about to be 
 adopted in these great naval repositories. 
 
 The Fleet, an inconsiderable stream, 
 .descends southward from Lord Mans- 
 field's fine grounds at Caen- Wood be- 
 tween Hampstead and Highgate, to the 
 Cc 4 
 
392 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 central parts of London, where it formed 
 in its way to join the Thames the offen- 
 sive hollow of Fleet Ditch, which is now 
 covered over ; nothing else distinguishes 
 the course of this river. _ 
 
 The Lea divides Essex in great part 
 from Middlesex, and falls into the Thames 
 a little below Stepney. It rises near Lu- 
 ton in Bedfordshire, pursuing a south- 
 east course to Hertford and Ware, after 
 which it flows throughout nearly south- 
 ward. Though in itself but a sluggish 
 river, the Lea traverses for the most part 
 a very pleasant country, and particularly 
 in the neighbourhood of Hertford. It is 
 ' joined and increased by various small 
 streams about the central part of its 
 course, of which the Stort, the Quan, the 
 Bean, and the Maran, are the principal, 
 though unattended with any memorable 
 features. Soon after its outset, the late 
 Lord Bute swelled the Lea into a consi- 
 derable lake to adorn his fine park of 
 Luton Hoo, which is proudly overlooked 
 by the stately, but unfinished, pile of his 
 
 9 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 393 
 
 house. Had the immense design been 
 completed, this would have been by far 
 the first modern seat in England ; in its 
 present state, it boasts many grand apart- 
 ments, and exhibits a library of vast ex- 
 tent and beauty, adorned with a noble 
 collection of pictures. The Lea soon af- 
 terwards undergoes another artificial en- 
 largement in the park belonging to 
 Brocket, the ornamented seat of Lord 
 Melborne ; it then traverses part of the 
 Marquis of Salisbury's domain at Hat- 
 field, but is too distant from the house 
 to add much to its prospect. That noble 
 pile overlooks great part of Hertfordshire 
 from its proud eminence, and is one of 
 the finest specimens of old English archi- 
 tecture, about the reign of James I. when 
 the Grecian orders were somewhat oddly 
 engrafted on the Gothic fabric, though 
 their union gave an air of considerable 
 grandeur to large buildings. Burghley, 
 Longleat, and Audley-End, are co-tem- 
 porary structures, but they have an ad- 
 vantage over Hatfield in being built with 
 
394 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 stone, the latter being of brick, with 
 stone facings and ornaments. Hatfield, 
 nevertheless, is a very grand edifice, and 
 its stone colonade in front is in particular 
 wonderfully light and elegant. 7he Lea 
 passes a number of fine seats in the valley 
 it forms by Hertford and Ware, the most 
 striking of which is Ware Park ; it after- 
 wards becomes much enlarged, and runs 
 for some distance parallel with the great 
 canal called the New River, which is of so 
 much importance to our metropolis. The 
 Lea then enters a larger vale, bounded 
 on one side by the wooded hills of Ep- 
 ping Forest, and on the other by the 
 heights of Barnet and Highgate ; the 
 level afterwards becomes very consider- 
 able as this river approaches Hackney, 
 and still more so, as it advances towards 
 the Thames, 
 
 Between the mouth of tJie Lea, and 
 that chain of populous villages which 
 form the outskirts of London on this side, 
 a very extraordinary semicircular com- 
 pass is made by the Thames, almost en- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 395 
 
 closing a marshy flat, which has obtained 
 the title of the Isle of Dogs, and is said 
 to be remarkably rich in its pasture. Op- 
 posite to this level, where the small stream 
 oithe Ravenhofie descends from Hayes and 
 Louisham, the lofty spire of Deptford, 
 and the magnificent hospital of Green- 
 wich, backed by its well-wooded park 
 and observatory, grace the Kentish shore 
 with great splendour, above which the 
 elevated ground of Blackheath displays 
 its numerous villas and pleasant villages, 
 commanding striking views over London, 
 and across the river towards Essex. Green- 
 wich seems fated for superb institutions, 
 having been once the favourite palace of 
 Queen Elizabeth, and the theatre of those 
 gay courtly displays which distinguished 
 her reign. In the time of her successors and 
 the commonwealth it gradually fell into 
 neglect, but was afterwards converted to 
 the noblest of all purposes in a maritime 
 country, when the present splendid edi- 
 fice was erected, and destined for the re- 
 Jief of aged and infirm seamen. This 
 
396 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 structure is far superior to any of our pa- 
 laces, and greatly excels that founded for 
 soldiers at Chelsea, both in extent, archi- 
 tecture, and its surrounding territory ; it 
 is built of the finest white stone, and 
 finished in the most exquisite Grecian 
 taste, with a most superb chapel and 
 hall, each of which is covered with a 
 dome. Abounding in well-chosen orna- 
 ment, and stretching out in a great com- 
 pass to front the river in two piles, it no 
 where appears heavy or gaudy in its de-^ 
 coration, which is everywhere chaste and 
 proper ; could a defect be stated, it should 
 seem to be the want of a sufficient cen- 
 tral edifice to unite two such magnificent 
 corresponding wings, which is but indif- 
 ferently supplied by the low structure of 
 the governor's house. Such a building 
 as that of che elegant dome of the Maison 
 des Invalids at Paris would accomplish 
 this purpose, and I understand some 
 such structure was originally intended, 
 but has been left to a future age to finish. 
 As it stands at present, the mind of a 
 
I 
 
 OF GREAT BRITAIN. 397 
 
 stranger is most pleasingly affected with 
 the liberality and propriety of the design, 
 as well as with the beauty of its execu- 
 tion, especially when he surveys such 
 crowds of these veteran defenders of 
 their country, either sitting at their ease 
 under the colonades or on the benches in 
 the park, or sometimes from the terrace 
 in front, overlooking the numerous ship- 
 ping transported by the Thames, and thus 
 calmly contemplating the former theatre 
 of their active life. 
 
 Greenwich Park, descending in an 
 abrupt flope from Black-heath, charm- 
 ingly planted both in avenues and single 
 trees, and commanding the noblest pros- 
 pects, is open to the public, its summit 
 being crowned with an observatory, 
 where the office of professor is now most 
 respectably occupied by_the distinguished 
 talents of Dr. Maskelyne. So circum- 
 stanced, Greenwich is the favourite resi- 
 dence of many agreeable families, and 
 few spots can excel it in the singular ad- 
 vantages of its select society, as well as in 
 
390 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 its delightful walks and rides, and its easjr 
 access to London. 
 
 From the mouth of the Lea and the 
 extremity of the Isle of Dogs, the Thames 
 makes toother sweep to reach Woolwich, 
 whidi great repository and foundery of 
 our artillery lies spread on the Kentish 
 shore beneath some well-formed high 
 grounds covered with woods, whereof 
 one is occupied by the delightful village 
 of Charlton, and the old Gothic mansion 
 of Sir Spencer Wilson. Shooters Hill 
 rises with considerable grandeur above 
 these to a kind of apex, over which the 
 great Dover road passes, and is covered 
 with several high buildings, the principal 
 of which (on the south-west side, which 
 is well-wooded) is a tower built in the 
 upper part of the spacious grounds of 
 Lady James at Eltham. The justly-ce- 
 lebrated prospect from Shooters Hill has 
 often been thought to bear away the 
 palm from that of Richmond, but, in my 
 opinion, the features of these rival emi- 
 nences are too different to admit easily 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. ^gg 
 
 of comparison; and it might be little less 
 absurd to compare the naval display from 
 Portsdown in Hampshire, with the moun- 
 tainous scenery of Wales or the High- 
 lands of Scotland. From Shooters Hill, 
 the great windings of the Thames, filled 
 with sails, and the superb display of the 
 metropolis at the distance of eight miles, 
 are the chief objects; but the scenery im- 
 mediately on the banks of the river being 
 marshy, is by no means equal to the rich 
 meads of Twickenham, Ham, and Isle- 
 worth, nor is the Thames itself so clear, 
 though far more extended. Almost the 
 whole of Essex lies stretched out below, 
 and many parts of Hertfordshire, Bed- 
 fordshire, Buckinghamshire, and Oxford- 
 shire close the horizon towards the north. 
 On the west, the curiously- formed hills 
 of Sydenham seem to join the Surry 
 downs by the long ridge of Norwood, 
 and the southern view covers a great part 
 of the interior of Kent, to the boundary 
 of the delightful vale ofRiverhead. 
 Within view from Shooters Hill, in 
 
400 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 this expanse, a bold mount rises abruptly 
 from a singularly-wild, but by no means 
 ievel plain, (which bears a forest-like ap- 
 pearance,) covered with the plantations, 
 and crowned with the villa of Holwood- 
 Hill, lately the temporary retirement of 
 the Right Hon. William Pitt, from the 
 laborious exertions of his official duties. 
 Except that the Thames itself is too dis- 
 tant to enliven the plain below, the po- 
 sition of this spot is not unlike that of 
 St. Anne's Hill in Surry, and these two 
 opposed ministers have shewn a choice 
 not insimilar in the places they have 
 sought to embellish, as well as in the 
 object of their ambition. Chearfulness 
 and hospitality are also said alike to have 
 prevailed at Hoi wood, and the numerous 
 train of its visitors expressed that strong 
 attachment to Mr. Pitt, which his ex- 
 traordinary talents commanded, though 
 his leisure would not allow him to adopt 
 the literary occupations and rural pursuits 
 to which Mr. Fox devotes himself with 
 such success in Surry. When we observe 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 401 
 
 two such brilliant stars moving in their 
 alternate spheres, a vain wish is apt to 
 arise in many a patriotic breast, that, by 
 a happy junction, they might at some 
 period have formed a splendid constella- 
 tion for the glory and happiness of Eng- 
 land, and so contributed to dispel the 
 storms which have long blackened our 
 political horizon. 
 
 A little below Woolwich, on the op- 
 posite shore, the Rod'tng descends from 
 the central parts of Essex, rising at no 
 great distance from Dunmow, and de- 
 scending southward through that deep 
 tract of land which bears from it the 
 name of the Rod'mgs of Essex, several vil- 
 lages of that title being also dispersed 
 about it. At Chipping- Ongar, it makes 
 a compass by the west, under the hills of 
 Woodford in Epping Forest, and turns 
 ultimately by Wanstead towards the 
 east. From Ongar, its course is at first 
 through a pleasant vale adorned with va- 
 rious seats and villages, while the heights 
 of Epping Forest are thickly overspread 
 Dd 
 
402 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 with superb villas, mostly belonging to 
 the opulent citizens of London, who 
 more than vie with the nobility in these 
 districts. Copped Hall, the fine place of 
 the Conyers family, is a seat of a supe- 
 rior order, covering the ridge, which, near 
 Epping, divides the valley of the Lea from 
 that of the Rodlng, and surrounded by the 
 extensive Forest of Epping. But the 
 first in grandeur of all these places, is the 
 splendid, though deserted palace, built by 
 the late LordTylney at Wanstead, which 
 rises far above the rest in all the pride and 
 grace of Italian architecture. It is in- 
 deed a very noble pile, containing a long 
 range of apartments, and the grand 
 avenue to its front, surrounding a large 
 basin, is very striking, though in the for- 
 mal taste of the last age. Viewed -from 
 across the Thames, it forms a striking ob- 
 ject in the landscape of Shooters Hill and 
 the opposite heights of Kent, from the 
 immensity of its bulk, and the whiteness 
 of the stone. The course of the Roding 
 is afterwards through a flat by Barking 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN-. 403 
 
 to the Thames. This is the last river 
 which joins the Thames on the Essex side, 
 except an inconsiderable stream from 
 Romford, and another from Purfleet in 
 the marshes. The Kentish shore still 
 continues elevated, and Belvedere, the 
 elegant seat of Lyord Eardley, covers a 
 considerable rise vsrith its plantations near 
 Erith, commanding two great reaches of 
 the river, and both its coasts, very hap- 
 pily. The Cray J and the Darenth, on the 
 part of Kent, bring their tributary streams 
 from the interior of that fertile county, 
 sinking below Crayford and Dartford, 
 (the towns which derive their names from 
 them) into the marshes which encompass 
 tJie Thames on the east of Erith. De- 
 lightful vales are formed by each of these 
 streams, which are ornamented with 
 villas in the utmost profusion, on which 
 Foote's Cray-place on the former exhibits 
 a striking edifice in the Italian taste in 
 the midst of grounds very w^ell managed, 
 and the whole ridge descending from 
 Bromley by Chisselhurst^ beautifully 
 Dd5 
 
404 RIVERS AND COAST* 
 
 wooded, inclines on the south to thrs 
 pleasant little stream. The Darejtth can 
 scarcely be called a superior river in size, 
 each partaking in the figure and appear- 
 ance of a limpid rivulet, except where 
 swelled in the various grounds appertain- 
 ing to the seats near which they pass ; it 
 is notwithstanding far transcendant in 
 beauty, and the vale it forms is one of 
 the most pleasing and highly ornamented 
 in England. It rises from several small 
 streams in the range of hills bounding 
 Surry, whose shelving sides are thickly 
 interspersed with beech woods and plan- 
 tations, contrasted finely with chalky 
 cliffs. At Westerham it exhibits its 
 charming vale in perfection, the pictu- 
 resque spire of which neat county town 
 rises from a happy eminence above the 
 river, backed by the fine groves and ex- 
 tensive park of Mr. Ward at Squirries. 
 The grounds and woods of Hill-place, 
 celebrated for its cascades, and formed by 
 the taste of the late Lord Hilsborough, 
 extend along the waving line of hills 
 
OF GREAT BRITAII^. 40^ 
 
 which divide this line of country on the 
 south from the rich weald of Sussex ; and 
 the antient church of Brasted, with its 
 pleasant parsonage and long street, oc- 
 cupy a central point in the valley. Seats 
 of every description, highly favoured by 
 nature, and abundantly decorated by art, 
 embellish this most beautiful of the Ken- 
 tish vales, and seem almost joined with 
 each other, as you follow the descent of 
 the Darenth. That amiable and accom- 
 plished physician. Dr. Turton, has built 
 an Italian palace at Brasted, which may 
 be justly called the Temple of ^scula- 
 pius, and there enjoys, with his excellent 
 lady, the placid evening of an active life, 
 in select society, and acts of liberality and 
 utility to his neighbours, enlivened by a 
 constant attention to the improvement 
 of his grounds. An extensive park rises 
 above it, and two terraces command the 
 valley admirably; but the finest feature of 
 all is a large know! ascending precipi- 
 tately above the house, entirely covered 
 with forest trees, in which the beeches 
 
 3 
 
406 RIVERS AND c6AS1* 
 
 are predominant, and intersected with 
 walks. Immediately opposite, is that 
 little Eden constituted by the exquisite 
 taste of Lord Frederic Campbell at Comb- 
 Bank ; and the shingled spire of Sun- 
 drish rises beautifully above its village, 
 which may also boast its parsonage, or- 
 namented judiciously by the taste of Dr. 
 Vyse, and some delightful grounds be- 
 longing to the Bishop of London's villa, 
 Riverhead, from which the valley takes 
 its name, soon succeeds, on the right of 
 which. Lord Amherst's fine place of Mon- 
 treal extends along the rising ground, 
 marked with a high pillar to commemo- 
 rate the meeting of the brothers of that 
 family after their perils encountered in 
 America ; while still further back, the 
 house and grounds, embellished by the 
 late Sir Charles Farnaby, cover the un- 
 dulating sides of a charming hollow. 
 Mr. PolhilFs antient scat appears between 
 the avenues in the vale ; and Lord Stan- 
 hope's finely planted park of Chevening 
 rises in the most beautiful swells above 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 407 
 
 his house, charmingly overspread with 
 evergreens, and crowned with woods, 
 above the summit of which, the clump, 
 distinguished afar by the name of the 
 Kndckholt Beeches, exalts itself. The 
 village of Chevening is pleasant, where 
 its worthy rector, Mr. Preston, enjoys the 
 combined blessings of retirement and li- 
 terature, justly respected by all surround- 
 ing him. The town of Sevenoaks rises on 
 the hills bounding the southern side of 
 this vale from Riverhead, which are there 
 covered with the magnificent park sur- 
 rounding Knowle, the antient collegiate 
 mansion of the Dukes of Dorset. All 
 the trees of the forest flourish eminently 
 in this vast tract of ground, but the 
 groves of beech are by far most luxuriant, 
 and the swells of its ground are uncom^ 
 monly beautiful. Water alone is want- 
 ing to please the eye, for though two 
 terraces at each extremity of the park 
 command immense views over the vales 
 of the Medway and the Darejtth, neither 
 pf those rivers is considerable enough to 
 
4o8 RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 make a distinguished feature in the land- 
 scape, but its great extent makes ample 
 amends for an omission which could not 
 well be supplied without a vast lake or 
 an arm of the sea. The majestic hills of 
 the Park of Penshurst are visible from 
 hence in the centre of the vale of Med- 
 way, crowned with fine groves, which 
 contain the now-singular appendage of a 
 Heronry; beneath it is that antient tur- 
 retted mansion, which was formerly the 
 fevourcd residence of Sir Philip Sydney, 
 and the classic ground of his Arcadia. Both 
 this old house and that of Knowle contain 
 some good apartments, and valuable 
 pictures, but each are more gloomy in 
 their interior than they should be; 
 Knowle, in particular, would benefit 
 greatly by the levelling some decayed 
 walls and gardens, and opening the man- 
 sion more towards its fine park. The 
 pleasing seats of Lord Camden, Mr. 
 Noailles, and Mrs. Hardinge, continue, 
 with various others, to decorate the vale 
 of the Darenih as it widens, and de- 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 409 
 
 Spends in a waving line by Farningham 
 and Dartford almost northward to the 
 Thames. 
 
 That great river has now collected all 
 its forces, and rolls on, encompassed more 
 and more by marshes, in a broad stream 
 with frequent windings to the sea ; the 
 memorable towers of Tilbury-Fort in 
 Essex, fronting the high spire and 
 town of Gravesend, full of fliipplng, are 
 the last striking objects it passes, as it 
 winds round the extensive marshes of 
 Cliff, forming the long reach called the 
 Hope. The shores here recede consider- 
 ably, till the fortress and numerous ves- 
 sels of Sheerness at the point of the Isle 
 of Shepey, opposite the marshy tract 
 called the Isle of Grain, formed by a 
 small river of that name, mark the junc- 
 tion of ///^ Medway with the sea which the 
 Thames makes at tlie Nore, where both 
 rivers combined are soon lost in the Ger- 
 man Ocean. 
 
 The peculiar character of the Thames 
 Ee 
 
4IO RIVERS AND COAST 
 
 alone remains to be described, which 
 may be done in a few words, as this is 
 one of those rivers which rather derive 
 thek characters from the countries 
 through which they flow, than impose 
 one by their boldness and rapidity on the 
 tract they pursue. The Thames traverses 
 some of the richest and most central parts 
 of England, and even in its most hilly 
 districts, where its current is naturally 
 strongest, can never be called properly a 
 rapid stream. It is by no means, how- 
 ever, a sluggish river, and is throughout 
 distinguishable for the majestic progress 
 of its pure silver stream, which generally 
 fills its verdant banks, and is rarely dis- 
 coloured with mud, except after great 
 fioocls. To these it is occasionally liable, 
 and their influence is very extensive, as 
 well as of long continuance, in the level 
 parts of its tract, making the whole 
 country appear like a sea, and many of 
 the towns and villages like islands, when 
 viewed from the several eminences com- 
 manding the plain ; yet is the mischief 
 
OF GREAT BRITAIN. 4II 
 
 it does far Inferior to that created by the 
 smaller and more rapid streams, and the 
 fertility, which takes place on its retiring 
 within its banks, is most abundant. The 
 Ists is not a very considerable river till it 
 passes Oxford, where it meets iheCheru^ellj 
 but increases much in dignity and width 
 after it has formed its junction with the 
 Thame, and assumed its proper title of 
 the Thames ; it also suffers a manifest en- 
 largement from the accession of the Ken* 
 nett. That part of its course, which 
 leads from Wallingford to Reading, Hen- 
 Icy, Marlow, and Maidenhead Bridge, is 
 most distinguished by romantic scenery 
 and natural beauty, leading through val- 
 leys bounded by hills richly cloathed 
 with beech woods, and finely embellished 
 by the seats of many of our principal no- 
 bility and gentry. Vast plains succeed, 
 where the Thames appears the principal 
 feature, from various great protruding 
 eminences; and mighty works of art 
 adorn its banks, which abound in popu- 
 lous towns and villages, as it approaches 
 
415 RIVERS, &C. OF GREAT BRITAIN. 
 
 the capital of England. It is there a 
 superb tide river, full of vessels of every 
 description, which arrest the eye strongly 
 in the bolci sv^eeps it afterwards makes 
 through increasing marshes to the sea, 
 and to the end it preserves that air of 
 placid dignity and imposing consequence, 
 which distinguish so eminently this mo- 
 narch of the British rivers. 
 
 The Thames may boast the highest 
 commercial importance, and its mer- 
 chantmen crowd all the ports of the habit- 
 able world, from the burnino: coast of 
 Africa to the extremities of India and 
 China ; and from the continent and 
 islands of America to the frozen shores 
 of the Baltic, and the north of Europe 
 and Asia. In its bosom also arc con- 
 structed many of those mighty floating 
 bulwarks, with which Great Britain has 
 so long and powerfully protected her 
 trade, bidding defiance to the fleets of 
 her enemies. 
 
 THE END. 
 
 T. Beoflry, Printer, Bolt Court, Fleet Street. 
 
NOTES AND REGULATIONS. 
 
 COAST OF NORTH WALES. 
 Holders of Tourist Tickets to North Wales may break the journey at Cliester, Iloly well, and at any 
 
 ] itermediate Station on the Main Lino west of Rhyl and their destination. 
 Tho North Wales Tourist Tickets are not available by the Irish Express Mails. 
 B1-A.UMARIS.— Bangor is the nearest Station for Beaumaris. Omnibuses run twice daily between 
 
 >!aneror and Beaumaris. 
 BJ :TTWS.Y-C0KD, FESTINIOG.— The New Lino of Railway from Bettws-y.Coed to Festiniog is now 
 
 open for Passengers. 
 X'aasengers may break the journey at Kenilworth, as also at Leamington (for Stratford^n-Avon). 
 
 NORTH WALES CIECULAll TOUR. 
 
 llulders of Tickets for this Tour travel to Chester, thence along the North Wales Coast to Carnarvon, 
 
 returning via Portmadoc, Barmouth, Dolgelly, Bala, Corwen, Ruabon, and Chestor; or the Tour 
 
 may, at the option of the Passenger, be worked in the reverse direction, but Passengers must 
 
 • Htate at the time of booking the direction in which they purpose to commence the Tour, and obtain 
 
 Tickets accordingly. The journey may be broken at Chester, Holywell, and at any intermediate 
 
 Station on tht) Main Line between Rhyl and Menui Bridge, and at any other Station mentioned in 
 
 he routes. Passengers breaking the journey at ilhyl can obtain Cheap Tickets to enable them to 
 
 risjt the Vale of Clwyd. 
 
 *SNOWDON CIRCULAR TOUR. 
 Passengers for this Tour have the choice of the follovvmg routes :— 
 
 Ist. To travel via Welshpool, Machynlleth, Dolgelly and Barmouth, to Carnarvon, returning from 
 Carnarvon by Bangor and Chester. Or the' Tour may, at the option of the Passenger, be 
 worked in the reverse direction. 
 Passengers must state at the time of booking the direction in which they propose to commence the 
 
 Tour, and obtain Tickets accordingly. 
 Holders of these Tickets are at liberty to break the journey at any intermediate Station on the London 
 and North Western Lino between Afon Won and Chester ; and 'also at any Station on the Cambrian 
 Line between Welshpool and Afon Wen. These Tickets only entitle the Holder to travel once in the 
 tame direction. 
 O.nnibuses are run from Tan-y-bwlch and Maentwrog to Penrhyndeudraeth Station, but are not 
 included in the Snowdon Tour Fares. Passengers wishing to visit Festiniog can now travel 
 from Bettws-y.Coed by Rail, but the fares are not included in the Snowdon Tour Faros. 
 
 *NORTH AND SOUTH WALES CIRCULAR TOUR. 
 
 These Tourist Tickets are available from the Stations at which they are issued by either of the 
 following routes : — 
 Ist. To travel to CARMARTHEN via Shrewsbury; thence to TENBY and back ; from Carmarthen 
 to Aberystwith, by the Manchester and Milford Railway, thence to Barmouth and Dolgelly 
 by the Cambrian Railway; from Barmouth to Portmadoc and Carnarvon, returning from 
 Carnarvon via Bangor and Chester to the station from which the passengers started. 
 ' nd. To travol via the Chester and Holyhead Lino to Carnarvon, thence to Portmadoc, Aberystwith 
 and Carmarthen, thence to Tenby and back, returning from Carmarthen via the Central 
 Wales Extension Lino to the station at which the Ticket was issued. 
 Passengers must state at the time of booking whether they elect the 1st or the 2nd route. 
 Holders of these Tickets will be allowed to break the journey at Shrewsbury, Church Stretton, 
 Llandrindod, or Llanwrtyd Wells, Builth Road, (Mid.Wale'a Junction), Llandilo, Carmarthen, 
 Tenby, Lampeter, Strata-Florida, Aberystwith, Dolgelly, Barmouth, Carnarvon, Menai Bridge, and 
 at any Station on the Main Line between Menai Bridge and Rhyl inclusive. 
 Passengers breaking the journey at Rhyl can obtain Cheap Return Tickets to enable thorn to visit 
 Corwen, Ruthin, Denbigh, and the Vale of Clwyd. 
 
 *NORTH, SOUTH, AND BUD-WALES CIRCULAR TOUR. 
 
 Tickets for this Tour are issued by cither of the following routes :— 1st, to travel via Craven 
 Arms to Llandrindod, Builth, and Brecon; from Jh-econ to Llanidloes, and back to Builth Road; 
 thence to Cannartlion via Llandovery, and from Carmarthen to Tenb5- and back ; thence vie 
 Lampeter to Aberystwith ; Aberystwith via Aberdovery, to Dolgelly, Barmouth Portmadoc, and via 
 Afoiiwcn to Carnarvon, returning from Carnarvon via Bangor and Ches r, to the Station from 
 which tlic paFssonger started. The Tour, at the option of the holder, may bo worked in the rovcr.so 
 direction ; Tickets being obtained accordingly at the time of starting. 
 
 CARMARTHEN, TENBY, AND ABERYSTWITH CIRCULAR TOUB. 
 
 "nssengers holding these Tickets travel either via Shrewsbury and Llandriadod to Carmarthen, and 
 thence to Tenby and back ; from Carmarthen via the Manche.strr and Milford Railway to Aboryst- 
 with, returning from Aberystwith by the Cambrian Line via Machj'nlleth, ani Welshpool to the 
 station from which the Tour was commenced; or they can travel via Wolshpoi-l and Newtown to 
 Aberystwith, aiul thence to Carmarthen by tho Manchester and Milford Railway, and from C; 
 marthen to Tenby and back, returning from Carmarthen, via the Central Wales Extension Lino 
 and Shrewsbury, to the station from which the passengers started. 
 
 These Tickets will entitle the holders to break the journey at Shrewsbury, Church Stretton, 
 Llandrindod or Lliinwrtyd Wells, Builth Road (Mid-Wales Junction). Llandilo, Carmarthen, Tenby, 
 Lav. peter, St'ata-Florida, Aberystwith and at any station between Aberystwith and Welshpool. 
 
 CARMARTHEN, TENBY, ABERYSTWITH, AND MID-WALtS CIRCULAR TOUR. 
 
 Tickets for this Tour are issued by either of the following routes :— Ist, to travel via Craven Arms to 
 Llandrindod, Builth, and Brecon ; from Brecon to Llanidloes and back to Builth Road Janctio*, tl:onc« 
 to Carmarthen, nd Llandovery; from Carmarthen to Tenby and back; thence via Lampoter t< 
 Aberystwith, returning from Aberystwith by tho Cambrian Lino, via Machynlleth, Newtown and Welsh 
 pool, to the Station from which the passenger started. Tho 'Jour, at the option of the holder, may }' 
 worked in tho other diroction ; Tickets being t)btainod accordingly at the time of starting. 
 
 The Tickets entitle tho holders to break tho journey at Shrewsbury, Church Stretton, Llandrindod, 
 Builth, Brecon, Rhayader, Llanwrtyd, Llandilo, Carmarthen, Tenby, Lampeter, Aberystwith, and ut 
 any station between Aberystwith and Welslipool. (j ^ 
 
 * Arrangements have been made to enable the lioldors of these Tickets, if they prefer it, to 
 travel from Portmadoc by coach through Boddgelert and the Pa.'^s of Llanberis, and thence by rail to 
 Carnarvon, or vice va\sa, according as the first or second route has been selected at starting. Tickets 
 must be obtained accordingly. 
 
I 
 
 THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
 STAMPED BELOW 
 
 AN INITIAL FINE OF 25 CENTS 
 
 WILL BE ASSESSED FOR FAILURE TO RETURN 
 THIS BOOK ON THE DATE DUE. THE PENALTY 
 WILL INCREASE TO 50 CENTS ON THE FOURTH 
 DAY AND TO $1.00 ON THE SEVENTH DAY 
 OVERDUE. 
 
 mii H K M5 
 
 ,-ISB^^^^^ 
 
 aiiR a 01955 m 
 
 •ct 
 
 T^rWfifrTt- 
 
 rH^ 
 
 eP/£EL 
 
 'B2l 
 
 W^^ 
 
 t=©AH 
 
 JSi^ 
 
 'S^rr^^ 
 
 4tCT«r 
 
 lll9jff 
 
 I 
 
M169371 
 
 65- 1 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA UBRARY