^^^^ AaAAAa''^ ^r>W^ Hiiffi^ ^,^W ^ - '"" '■ i A ' '^aX ^^.lAMbl 1 ? fiTO^, a_.*AAA/>.'s.'>.' MkuTuiimi 'frm PENZAKCE: PRINTED BY EDWARD ROWE, SO, MARKET- PLACE. PREFACE. This Book is founded on " A "Week in the Isles of Scilly," ty the Eev. J. W. North, published by the present Publisher in 1 850, but it has been so thoroughly re-constructed that it may be regarded as a new work. It is hoped that the alterations and additions -will make the book more useful to the Visitor ; but it is right to say that Mr. North, who ceased to reside in Scilly many years since, is in no way responsible for them. Any corrections will be thankfully received by the Publisher. CONTENTS. Introductory Chapter Pa»e 5 ( Notes on the Names of Places in Scilly ) .... 9 First Excursion : — Sampson, Bryher, and Adjacent \ , , Islets ) Second Excursion : — Tresco and Adjacent Islets .... 16 Third Excursion : — St. Agnes and the "Western ) „<» Islets S Foiirtli Excursion : — St. Martin's and the Eastern \ „„ Islets S ' St. Mary's 46 Garrison 47 Peninis, &c. . , .^ 50 Sixth Excursion -.—The Xorth Coast of St. Mary's . . 00 nistory and Social Condition 71 Birds :— Land Birds 82 „ Water „ 84 Ferns 91 A General View of the Zoological Features of the ) q . Sea round the Scilly Islands S Crustacea 100 Zoophytes 1 05 The Geology of the Scilly Islands 1 U A WEEK i:^ THE ISLES OF SCILLY. II^TRODUCTOEY CHAPTER. The Scilly Islands lie W.S.W. from the Land's End at a distance of about 27 miles, but tbeir distance from Pen- zance, the port of embarkation of ordinary visitors, is about 42 miles. A small but commodious screw steamer, the Little Western, makes the voyage from Penzance to Scilly thrice a -week during the Summer months, and twice a week during the Winter ; the passage usually occupying about four hours. The fares are 6s. and 3s. 6d.; return-tickets are not issued except on special excursions, but it may be questioned whether the proprietors of the steamer would not consult their own interest in issuing return- tickets to tourists. Some of our readers may remember Mr. "Walter "White's hungry experience on board the former sailing packet, the Lionesse, (" A Londoner's "Walk to the Land's End," ) and we therefore add that refreshments can be procured from the Steward of the Little "Western. At St. Mary's, the largest island, there are several inns; the best is kept by the master of the Little Western, Captain Tregarthen; others arc kept by Mumford, Duff, Hicks, and EUis. There are also some very good lodging-houses where visitors can obtain fair attendance, at moderate charges. Besides St. Mary's, four other islands, Tresco, bt. Martin's, St. Agnes, and Bryher, are inhabited, and till lately two or three families lived on Sampson ; their acreage and population are shewn in the following table. Acres. Heath's estimate. St. Mary's 1640 Tresco 880 St. Martin 720 St. Agnes 390 Bryher 330 Sampson 1 20 A WEEK IN SCILLT. Population. 1750 1822* 1831 1841 1851 lS6t W 1400 1311 154.5 1668 1532 480 470 430 416 399 280 230 214 211 185 282 289 243 204 200 140 128 121 118 115 34 37 29 10 none 2616 2465 2582 2627 2431 » Woodley's estimate. Rabbits breed plentifully on some dozen smaller islands, and in summer cattle find a little pasture upon them . Of rocky islets and rocks there is an innumerable quantity. The tourist who wishes to pass from St. Mary's to the other islands, (called by the inhabitants the Off Islands) -ndll of course require a boat and a boatman, or boatmen : we should advise him to engage these as soon as possible : the islanders, from causes which we shall hereafter explain are so prosperous that few care to seek the casual gains of keeping boats for hire ; those who do so are Duff (whom we can recommend,) Obadiah Hicks, James Nicholas, and Samuel Jenkins. The usual charge for a good boat is half-a-crown a day, and as much for each man hired with it ; for a small boat and one man the charge is about four shillings a day. The tourist should take materials for luncheon with him. As the voyage from Penzance to Scilly always takes place in the day-time, and the steamer in ordinary weather keeps close to the shore for the first part of the way, this chapter may not improperly conclude with a notice of the objects seen on the passage. From Penzance the steamer stretches across that part of Mount's Bay called Gwavas Lake, at the head of which is the village of Newlyn, towards Penlee the southern arm of the Lake. The best view of Penzance and the hills behind it is seen during this part of the course. After leaving Penlee, the tourist sees the village of Mouse- hole, and Mousehole Island, otherwise called St. Clement's^ A WEEK IN SCILLY. 7 a chapel having formerly stood on it dedicated to that Saint. Next a cavern appears, from which, as the mouse's hole, a vulgar error derives the name of the village. Presently the vessel passes the entrance to Lamorna, a picturesque little valley, some of the beauty of which is however marred by the quarrying works and landing stage of the Messrs. Freeman. The next headland but one is sur- mounted by a pile of rocks called Cam Boscawen, and forms one horn of St. Ley's Cove, above which are seen the woods of Boskenna, the seat of the Paynter family. Penberth Cove follows, on the West of which are the rocks of Castle Treryn and the Logan Rock. Next is the Eundle Stone, a rock visible at half -tide and marked by a buoy; and a little to the 2^. W, is Tol Pedn Penwith, a fine bold promontory and the most southerly point of the peninsula of the Land's End. Here the steamer leaves the neigh- bourhood of the shore and steers across the mid-ocean to Scilly, but the coast of the Land's End and Cape Cornwall, and the Longships lighthouse, a little more than a mile West of the Land's End, remain visible for some time. In fine weather the village and church of Sennen are also distinctly seen. The steamer's course lies over the site of the fabled Lyonness where , . AU day long the noise of battle roU'd Among the mountains by the Winter sea ; XJntU King Arthur's table, man by man, Had fallen in Lyonness about their lord. This submerged country is said to have contained 140 parish churches ; but there is no reason whatever for accepting the tradition ; and, although the geography of the Arthurian legends is confused and contradictory, it is tolerably certain that the Lyonness mentioned in them is the district of the Leonnois in Brittany. Soon after the steamer stands out to sea, it passes on the South, the Wolf Eock, on which a lighthouse is now in course of erection. Although the SctUy Islands may be easily discerned in fine weather from the Land's End, they lie too low to be seen from the deck of the little steamer until the passage is half accomplished, when a day-mark on ' the nearest island, 8 A WEEK IX SCILLT. St. Martin's, makes its appearance and almost simultaneously with it the light-ship of the Seven Stones, a group ot rocks about seven miles to the North-east of St. Martin's. If the islands be reached at the time of high water, the steamer will pass tlirough Crow Sound between St, Martin's and St, Mary's, having the latter island on its left or Southern side, but at other times the depth of water in this Sound is not sufficient, and the longer course to the South of St. Mary's and thence Northwards through St. Mary's Sound, must be taken. Supposing Crow Sound to be passable, the steamer's course before entering it lies close to the South side of a group called the Eastern Islands ; whilst approaching them, a high conical rock called Hanjague, is conspicuous on the North, but it is soon lost amongst its fellows. Of these islands a more particular account will be found in the excursion to St. Martin's. Meanwhile that island itself is passed on the right, and then Tresco is seen, and on it the Abbey, the residence of Mr. A. Smith, M.P., the Lessee of the islands. On St. Mary's a beautiful heath-clad hiU is passed, and next a fine mass of rocks called Curn Morval ; just as the steamer enters the Port, St. Agnes, with its lighthouse, is seen to the South West, and a little to the right, in the distance, the lighthouse on the Bishop Eock . The longer course, which as we have said must be adopted at low water, runs around the South of St. Mary's, passing Porthellick, where the body of Sir Cloudesley Shovel was washed ashore, and soon after rounding Peninis, the finest headland in the islands. St. Agnes, witli its lighthouse, is then passed on the left, and the Peninsula, crowned with the Star Castle, on the right, immediately after which the steamer comes to an anchor in the Pool. The Pier at which the passengers land was built in the years 1833-8 : it juts out from the back of the former pier, which still remains to show how meagre was the accommodation it afi'orded. The visitor being thus landed at St. Mary's we shall break off this chapter, only adding, for his information, if he be pressed for time, that the objects best worth seeing are : — St. Mary's. The walk around the Garrison, i. e., the A WEEK IN SCILLY. 9 Star Castle, and the Peninsula occupied by it and its batteries. The Eocks at Peninnis. Tresco. The Abbey Gardens. Oliver's Castle and the New Grimsby Harbour. St. Agnes. The Light House . The Bishop Rock and Light House. Castle Bryher. Eound Island. Menavawr. But those who can afford the time may ' easily devote a day or more to each of the following excursions. NOTES ON THE NAMES OF PLACES IN SCILLY. The greater number of the names of places in Scilly are pure Cornish. The first class of exceptions contains those due to the infliicnce of the church ; the principal Islands arc named after the Saints to wlionr their churches or oratories have been dedicated, — St. Mary's, St. Martin's, St. Sampson's, St. Helen's, ( or rather St. Elid's ) and Tean ( St. Theona ). Tresco was for a time called St. Nicholas' Island, and St. Warna has given her name to one or two parts of St. Agnes. St. Agnes we have written in accordance with usage, but the prefix is a mistake ; this Island's name is properly Agnes, Hagenes, or Hagness, it is so written in a series of records commencing in the reign of Richard I {Mot. Cur. Eegis ed. Palgrave J, 8G), and in a map certainly drawn before 1580 it is called Angncs {Cott. MSS., Aug. I, II, 18). Agnes and Grimsby, the harbour of Tresco, are probably relics of the time when the Northmen used those Islancfe as a station. The next class of names not Cornish, contains places called after former owners, e. g., Toll's Island, Bab's Carn (Carn, — pile of rocks), Buzza's Hill, and similar to these are Frenchman's Grave, Dutchman's Cam, &c., which probably commemorate some unhappy shipwrecked strangers. Such names as Rat Island, Puffin Island, Rushy Bay, &c., need no explanation. The names of Cornish origin shew a tendency to a soft pronunciation ; the names in the county itself lack the roughness of the corresponding Welsh or Breton forms, but 10 A -WEEK IN SCILLY. iu Scilly they are still smoother. Thus Forth, a bay, is reduced to Por or Per, Permellin, Porcrasa, &e. ; Trescaw (scaw, an alder,) is softened into Tresco ; Gwynheli, in Cornwall Goonhilly, is in SciUy Ganilly ; Menawidden is changed into Menawethan, Treanmen into Trenemen, Enys-an-geon into Innisidgen, Enys-withek into Innis- wilgic and even Illiswithick. In the same spirit a vowel is frequently inserted between the component parts of a name, as Carnewethers, Crebawethan, Carnefiiers, Menawethan, &c. "When we proceed to single names we must confess that we are often baffled ; for Scilly itself, derivations from syliy, a conger-eel, scylly, to separate, skoly or skuly, to scatter, sul-leh, a sun-rock, have been suggested, but none of them is satisfactory. — As our limits will not allow us to discuss separate names, we must conclude by impressing on the reader one universal law of composition, and by giving him a few common words. The law is that the general name always precedes the special descriptive name, or in other words the noun-substantive comes first and the noun-adjective second, — thus in Peninis, pen is head and inis is island, but Peninis means the island-head and not the head-island. For common words we may give in addition to Carn. Forth or Por, Fen, and Inis or Enys already explained ; Creeb, or Creb a crest, Men, a rock, Bre, a hill, Tre, a homestead. \^A Taper on this subject, read by Mr. Edwin Norris, the Editor of the " Cornish Drama," before the Cambriart Archaeological Association, is printed in the "Arch. Camb.," Jan. 1863.] rmST EXCUESION. Sampson, Bryher, and Adjacent Islets. Our first excursion shall be to Sampson and Rryher. Steering across the Road in a Westerly course, for the . former of these islands, we pass at a distance of three quarters of a mile from it and about the same distance from Tresco, the conspicuous Nut Eock, the mark for pilots bringing vessels to thC; main anchorage. Those two hills before you, to the most Southerly of which we will direct our boat, are the Isle of Sampson. Tou will find a convenient landing-place on the Eastern side of the island. Two or three writers have supposed that Sampson and Bryher were formerly united, and have referred to some doubtful evidence in support of the hypothesis. The depth of water between the two islands makes the suggestion wholly improbable. Sampson may have been united at one time to Tresco, as it is possible at low water to wade, from one island to the other ; and for a similar reason Tresco^ may have been joined to Bryher. Sampson had formerly from thirty to forty inhabitants' but it was deemed advisable to remove them, as oppor- tunities offered, to St. Mary's, that the parents might have greater facilities for gaining their livelihood, and that the children might enjoy the benefits of education. No one now lives on the island, and a visit to the roofless cottages will show that the change was on every account desirable. Ascending the highest point of land, you will gain a commanding view of the Isles, and, at one glance, take in 12 A -WEEK IN SCILLY. their relative situation and proportions. St. Mary's is seen to great advantage with its Church and harbourj the Garrison surmounted by the Star Castle ; St. Agnes with its distinguishing feature, the Light-house ; Annet stretching out towards the West, with its jaggy extremities, like so many hay-cocks ; and, over the outer -most point of Annet, the Bishop Rock crowned by its elegant Light-house. The lock which stands nearly due "West from Sampson is Mincarlo ; those more to the South are Little and Great Minalto. That most to the West is Maiden Bower; and to the North of Maiden Bower |stands the rock which has given its name to this our English Archipelago. For the speculations on the origin of this name we refer to the note to our introductory chapter. Scilly is a flat islet of massive rock, divided into two parts by a deep chasm, through which the water flows. Each part is surmounted by a small lump of rock, styled the North and South Cuckoo. It is with great difficulty that a landing is affected on Scilly or on any of the neighbouring rocks, from the strong tides which run between them. It can be accomplished only when the weather has been for some time very calm. Between Maiden Bower and Sampson are the Seal Rock, Inniswilgic, and Castle Bryher. The last rock is a conspicuous feature in the scenery, and arrests attention whenever the eye is turned in that direction. Its bold and rugged summit rises finely above the low lands of Sampson and is seen from The Eoad and almost every island of the group. Between the isle of Bryher and Scilly is an uncultivated islet, called Gweal, containing seven acres. From this picturesque group of rocks the eye will quickly travel to Bryher, with its White Church, and Tresco, with Oliver Cromwell's Castle. Having thus surveyed this portion of the group of Islands, the visitor may rejoin his boat, and if the wind and tide permit, approach to Castle Bryher and the other rocks, in the midst of which it stands. Castle Bryher rises to a height of 96 feet 3 inches above the sea level. Maiden Bower is a fine bold rock, and Scilly A WEEK IN SCILLY. 13 is acknowledged to deserve the name of an Isle . From tliese outstanding rocks and isles the visitor should make for the Northern promontory of Bryher, called Shipman Head. By taking this course he will leave unnoticed the Southern and Soutli Western portions of this Isle. He may not deem it necessary minutely to inspect every bay or promontory ; more especially as the prospect from the Town Hill will sufficiently show the chief objects of interest. For the benefit, however, of those who neither lack time nor inclination to make the complete circuit of Bryher, we will give a more particular description of its various parts. The Southern Hill is called Sampson Hill ; and the bay which lies nearly due South on the Western side of this hill is marked in the map, Rushy Bay. This appears a more reasonable name than Russia Bay, by which it is mentioned in Woodley's history ; for which he very properly says, '* it were vain to enquire the reason. " Doubtless the name was suggested by the growth of rushes on that part of the island . The bay, which lies at the West South West corner, is Stony Bay ; deriving its name from the shingle* with which its beach is covered. Colvel Rocks are in a line with tlie Southern promontory by which this bay is terminated, and Heath Point is its Northern, or rather North Western, boundary . Between Heath Point and the next high land, which is Gweal Hill, so named from tlio islet lying opposite to it, is Long Bay, commonly called Great Porth. At low spring tides you may easily walk from Bryher to Gweal. Near the Northern extremity of Great Porth, and to the East of Gweal Hill, is a lake or pond of fresh water, covering a space of about two acres, but subject to brackishness by the spray of the sea. There is also a spring of fresh water in the North West part of the Island, which issues out of the clifl' on the sea shore. This spring ( the only stream of fresh water on the • Small, smooth stones. 14 A -WUEK IN SCILLY. Island) is remarkable for its purity, and is often resorted to by those who are suffering from wounds or sores. Its sanative power is generally understood and acknowledged. The bay itself is also worth visiting ; nor must we omit to notice the peculiarity, which both Troutbeck and "Woodley have mentioned, that " upon this spring the sun never shines." The "Western shore of Bryher presents to those, who view it from the water, a great variety of scenery, in a succession of high lands separated from each other by deep bays. The cliff is very bold at Shipman Head, but you may conveniently land, on either the Southern or the Eastern side. The South East side is the best. The rocks which form this head-land deserve a close examination. The outer extremity of Bryher is separated from its main- land by a yawning chasm caUed the Gulf. Its sides are nearly perpendicular, and at the narrowest part it is only about twelve feet wide. The highest point of Shipman Head is upwards of sixty feet. The Northern hill of Bryher, which Troutbeck describes as " the roughest and most mountainous of all the Scilly Islands," offers a very uneven surface, and but a dreary walk to the pedestrian. He may, therefore, well avoid it, and make his way along the Eastern, or, nwre correctly, the North Eastern side of the Island. This side of Bryher and the Western coast of Tiosco form the harbour of New Grimsby. The Rock, which when viewed from a distance, seems to stand nearly in the middle of the channel, but which may be reached on foot from Bryher at low water, is called Hangman Isle ; from the circumstance, as Troutbeck tells us, that some mutinous soldiers were hanged there by the Parliament forces in the great rebellion. Nearly opposite upon the shore of Tresco stands Cromwell's Castle, which is kept in substantial repair by the Board of Ordnance. The walk along the coast of Bryher in a Southerly direction offers a continual succession of fine views. Large masses of rock project from the Cliff, overhanging New A WEEK IN SCILLT. 16 Grimsby, and at its base is a path, which will presently bring you to the foot of the Watch Hill. This should be ascended, as from its summit is gained a fine, extensive prospgct, embracing in great measure, the objects which were seen from Sampson ; but from the change of situation they appear in a somewhat different aspect. To the North, Hangman Isle, New Grimsby Harbour, and Cromwell's Castle ; towards the East, St. Martin's ; and about ten leagues distant, the Land's End. In the same direction, but nearer at hand, the Abbey Grounds, and the pond of fresh water ; Southward, the Eastern Isles with their pretty green slopes even to the water's edge ; St. Mary's, with the white sands of Crow Bar, fill up the outline ; descending from the hill, a good road conducts to the Church, near which you may re -embark for St. Mary's. A careful examination of the Eastern shore of Bryher is recommended to those, who are desirous of adding to their collection of shells. SECOND EXCUESION Tresco and Adjacent Islets. This day we propose to visit Tresco and the Isles between it and St. Martin's. We will land on the Southern beach, of Ti-esco, at some point of the white sands, Eastward of the Abbey. In the coiu'se thither we pass a fine rock called The Mare, from its resemblance to the head and neck of a colossal horse. It is connected with some ledges, running out towards the North East, which are visible at low water. In the same direction may be observed a bold rock which wears the appearance of a crown . It forms the Southern extremity of Pentle Bay. The Northern extremity of this bay is called the Lizard Point. Pentle Bay is the best place on the shoi-es of Tresco for shells. But for the present we must defer our visit to its beautiful sands. A good road has recently been made from the beach on which we have landed to the Abbey grounds, offering to conduct us to the margin of those large pools of fresh water, which are so singular and beautiful a feature in the scenery of this Isle. Near them, upon an eminence, stands the Abbey. Mr, Smith very generously throws open his gardens and groimds to all visitors. Pass through the gate, which is nearly at the end of the road, and ascend the slope which lies before you, having the Abbey on your left, and the plantations on your right hand. You thus arrive at the principal entrance. Passing through the arch-way, you A WEEK IN SCILLY. 17 will be at ouce struck -with the view, and will readily believe that the spot chosen by the Proprietor for his residence, is the best which the Islands afford. From the terrace in the front of the housa, he commands the Road and all the principal Sounds ; and from the liill on which his flag-staff is placed, he sees the whole extent of his domains, North and South, East and West . On entering the gardens you will be charmed with the gay profusion of flowers, some creeping on the ground, and others climbing the rock-Avork, which gives at once shelter from the winds, and opportunities of display. The climate is most favourable to vegetation, the soil is not so good, but it is probable that a greater variety of plants and flowers is found here growing in the open air, than in any other part of Great Britain. Among them we may notice the numerous tribe of Mesembrianthemums, spreading in the greatest luxuriance and beauty ; Fuchsias of all kinds, Heliotropes, Crassulas, Egyptian Arams, and the graceful Clianthus. These, and many other yet more curious plants, flourish in this genial climate, requiring only shelter and protection from the violence of gales. The Geraniums and Myrtles, and sweet scented Verbena, grow to the dimensions of considerable trees ; and, later in the year, the gardens are adorned with handsome bunches of Chrysanthemums. But the assemblage of Dracoenas will soon be the most striking object in the gardens ; they grow in the open air with great vigour and healthfulness. In the midst of the gardens stand the walls of the Old Abbey Church, mantled over with the evergreen Geranium. Troutbeck says " this Church is ninety feet in length, and thirty feet in breadth, and stands due East and West. In the South side wall is a fine arch of good workmanship ; and on the North side has been another arch, directly opposite to it, and of the same breadth, which is now fallen down, and only six feet in height standing. The Church appears, from these two arches fronting each other, to have been built in the form of a cross. The arch that is standing on the South side is twelve feet wide at the bottom, and runs up to a shar]j point at the top, Avhich is sixteen feet high ; and on the 18 A WEEK IN SCILLY. "West side of the standing arch is an arched door." Troutbeck's account of the Abbey Church is in many respects inaccurate. The dimensions of the Church are eighty feet in length, by thirty feet in breadth. The arch would indeed lead to the supposition that transepts had formed part of the original design, but there is nothing whatever in the foundation or other part of the building to show that the design had been carried into effect ; and Mr. Smith is of opinion, after a careful examination, that there never was a transept. The stone used in the building is granite, excepting the arches, which are cased with a remarkably fine grit-stone of a reddish colour, supposed to have been procured from Normandy. The interior of the nave was used by the inhabitants as their burial place until the last thirty years since which period the dead have been interred in the ground around the Church. The graves remain, and are covered in questionable fashion with evergreens and flowers. It may be doubted whether it would not be better to preserve somewhat of the original character of the building, by keeping it separate from the gardens within which it stands. The monastic establishment to which this Church was attached was coeval with the Norman Conquest, but as early as theieign of Henry the First it became a cell of the Abbey of Tavistock. It was dedicated to St. Nicholas, whence Tresco, for some time, bore a second name of St. Nicholas's Island. Returning from the gardens you will pursue your walk along the road which leads to the village. On the right lies one of the beautiful pools of fresh water, before mentioned, containing a large quantity of eels and tench. The two ponds cover a space of fifty acres. Straight before you is Shipman Head, which is seen to great advantage. As you proceed you will observe, on the opposite side of the pond a handsome group of rocks perched on the hill, which rises with a gentle acclivity from the margin of the water. The hills of Bryher, explored yesterday, soon open on your left hand, and you will recognize some of the rocks to which attention was then directed. The road now skirts the edge A WEEK. IN SCILLT. 19 of the harbour, and leads by a most pleasant route in the direction of Oliver Cromwell's Castle. The group of cottages on your right is called the Palace from a house of public entertainment formerly kept there. A little beyond them is a convenient place of landing or of embarcation in New Grimsby. The cliif rises somewhat abruptly on the right ; and masses of rock, some large and some small, protrude from its green surface. The road does not extend the whole way to the Castle, but it is continued by an easy path which leads to it. The tower is an excellent piece of masonry, " about one hundred and sixty feet in circumference, and sixty feet high. The walls are twelve feet thick, and raised on arches. The roof is flat and has a battery of nine-pounders with a parapet wall about six feet thick. These might be employed with great effect in case of emergency, as the situation commands the harbour m every direction . At the foot of this building is a stone platform, next the sea, having also a good parapet wall upon which some old iron guns are planted." f Above this tower, on the top of the hiU, and at a. height of 1 55 feet above mean water, are the remains of another fort, called Charles's Castle. A small piece of the original wall is distinctly visible ; and in it are one or two embrasures. Adjoining it are the ruins of a small out- work. Near this spot about eighteen years ago an earthen- ware pot was discovered, together with some pieces of money. The view from this point will at once arrest attention. Southwards is the prospect of the channel between Tresco and Bryher. Hangman Isle lies immediately below. The hills of Bryher and its pretty bays are on your right ; St. Agnes is seen in the distance ; the Garrison and St. Mary's somewhat nearer, and many other isles and rocks, with which your eye is now familiar. This is a scene of great interest and beauty in clear, fine weather. t Drew. 20 A WEEK IN SCILLY. Nor is it less so in the season of storm and tempest. When the wind has for some time prevailed from the North "West, the sea rolls finely in upon the rocks at the back of Shipraan Head ; wave after wave, literally mountain high, breaking upon the iron-bound coast, present, a scene of great magnificence and awe. "We will now leave this spot and bend our steps across the Downs to Piper's Hole, which is at the North East point of the Island. It is a work of some toil and difficulty to explore this curious cavern ; and the services of two or more of the islanders must be engaged, who will provide a small boat and candles for your use. Some blue lights will also be required for the purpose of a thorough inspection of the cavern . You must be content to clamber over fragments of rock and stones for some distance ; but, with the assistance of an experienced guide, j'ou will easily surmount all obstacles and reach a pool of fresh water, when the boat will be called in requisition. The pool varies a good deal in its length and depth, at the different seasons of the year. The distance across it, which may be called its length, is generally between twelve and twenty fathoms. If there arc more than sixteen fathoms of water it is impossible for visitors to be ferried over it. But this is very rarely the case in the Summer months, when the water has been reduced to even ten fathoms. Assuming then that you have been able to cross the pool, you again laud, and by the aid of the candles and the blue lights gain some idea of the extent of the cave. Its inner recess is about one hundred fathoms from the entrance. Woodley tells us that " there are two other remarkable caverns at the North end of Tresco, one of which is about twelve feet high, three feet wide, and seventy feet long, the other is twenty feet high, ten feet wide, and above two hundred feet long." These dimensions, in the latter case at all events, appear to be considerably exaggerated, and it is doubtful whether these caverns are worth visiting. Woodley is, however, quite right in saying, " On the North West side of the hill, and about three hundred yards A AVEEK IN SCILLY. 21 from Kper's Hole, is a cavern, called The Gun, the length of which is about sixty feet, where there is a spring of fresh water called the Gun- well, constautly running." From Piper's Hole there is a pleasant walk along the head of Ginible Bay, called Gimble Perth by the islanders. The waves roll finely in upon the bar of sand, and break around the base of Golden Ball, Menavawr and the other rocks, which are seen from this Northern part of Tresco. From Gimble Bay you must retrace your way to the Beacon and the Town Hill, and thence to the Flag Staff, which is planted on the hill at the back of the Parsonage. The \^ew from the summit of this hill must not be omitted in a description of the beauties of Tresco. The larger pond of fresh water, the Abbey, the fields and the meadows ; and in an opposite direction. Sampson and Bryher, and the waters of New Grimsby are seen to great advantage. Returning to the road, a few paces will bring you to that part of the village called the ''Dolphin ; possibly an abbreviation of the name of the noble family of Godolphiu, so long lessees of these islands. In this central spot stands the Church, a convenient and comfortable building, in the form of a cross. Near it are the Schools ; the Infant School, recently erected, is about as far from the Church in the direction towards the Abbey, as the school for the elder children is in the direction of Old Grimsby, the harbour on the North Eastern side of this island. The Parsonage commands a good view of this part of the parish. The Dolphin fields are as good land as any in the island. Borlase with his usual accuracy has thus noticed them ; " the soil is so very fruitful, that one field of seven acres has been in tillage every year since the remembrance of man, and carries exceeding plentiful crops." Pursuing the road towards tho harbour you will pass upon your left hand some excellent gardens, which have within the last few years bceu allotted by tho Proprietor to some of his tenants who occupy the cottages by the road* side. 22 A WEEK IN SCILLY. Near them the Agent for the Trinity House, who also holds other important offices, resides ; and a good house has been built for the Master of the Light-Ship at the Seven Stones.* This house is most conveniently situated ; for from the high ground above it he can see the vessel which is entrusted to his charge. On this island dwellings are provided for all the men connected with the Light-Ship, that they may be under the immediate superintendence of their officers. The harbour of Old Grimsby is overhung by a cliff, fifty feet in height. Its northern extremity is Merchant's Point ; and the several fragments of rock which jut out here and there are called Permellin Carn, Permellin Rock, and Merchant's Eock. On the Southern point of the harbour is the Old Blockhouse, " twenty eight feet in length, and twenty two feet in breadth."t This battery, if put into an efficient state, would be a serviceable means of defence to the harbour in time of war. There is, at present, only one gun. At this part of the island, the visitor should again embark at the Pier which he will find convenient for his use, and sail in a Northerly course. The appearance of the little bay from the sea is pretty. The first islet which is passed is Northwithiel ; and steering to the South of Golden Ball, which is nearly joined to St. Helen's by a ridge of rocks, the visitor will approach Menavawr, the finest rock in these seas. On this he must land, if it be practicable . The most accessible part of the rock is at the South "West end. If he is so fortunate as to effect a landing, he will find it not so difficult as it at first-sight appears, to mount its abrupt and precipitous sides. From the boat it seems to afford an inaccessible retreat to the "wild birds which here lay their eggs in great number. But there is no danger in the attempt to clamber up its rugged surface. With the help of a friendly hand you may easily reach the top, which is one hundred and thirty- * For a fuller notice of the Seven Stones, see the Fourth Excursion. t Troutbeck. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 23 nine feet above the level of the sea. Menavawr is distinguished by three high peaks, of which one is separated from the ether two by a rift or chasm, through which at high water and in very calm weather a boat may shoot . There is, indeed, a channel between the other parts of this Tock. John Ellis, the Proprietor's chief boatman, is said to be the only man in Scilly who has ventured to take a boat through this second channel. When the visitor has sufficiently explored the rugged sides and highest points of Menavawr, he should re-embark and desire the helmsman to steer round it. Viewed from the water on its Northern side it is peculiarly grand. Leaving this rock you should sail to Round Island, where the Puffius breed ; its sides are bold and rugged, and though less striking than Menavawr, it exceeds it in height, its highest point being one hundred and fiftj-soven feet, five inches above mean water, or eighteen feet above Menavawr. From the Round Island the boatman may steer through the gap into St. Helen's Pool. The island from which these waters derive their name, appears to have been formerly inhabited. Troutbeck says " There are the ruins of a church upon this island, which is the most ancient Christian building in all the Islands. It consists of a South aisle twenty one feet and six inches long, by fourteen feet and three inches vnde, from which two arches, low and of an uncouth style, open into a North aisle, twelve feet wide, by nineteen feet and six inches long. There are two windows in each aisle formed in the most rustic manner ; and there is a stone jutting out, near the Eastern window in the North aisle like a platform, on which, it is supposed by some, the image of the saint stood to whom the church was dedicated." St. Helen's appears to have been erroneously substituted for St. Elid's, which is the name in all the old charters. Leland no doubt refers to it when he speaks of " St. Lyde's Isle when in times p;i6t at her (.') sepulchre was great superstition." It is difficult to speak now with any certainty as to the buildings formerly standing on this interesting isle. There is a small portion 24 A WEEK IN SCILLT. of the original wall yet remaining ; but the far greater part of that now standing is evidently of very recent erection, being loosely put together without cement of any kind. St. Helen's is uncultivated, and the only building upon it is the Pest House, which is opened to receive patients from vessels under quarantine. Goats and deer seem to claim the island as their domain. These animals watch from the higher points of rock those who land upon their territory, and are ill at ease until they see them again retiring to their boat. The visitor will do well to make the circuit of this isle. There are many fine masses of rock upon it. Those immediately above the Pest House princi- pally deserve notice ; but others towards the North are exceedingly bold. The highest point is one hundred and forty feet above mean level of the sea. On the Northern side of the isle, directly opposite Eound Island, there is a fine chasm in the rocks, through which the sea rushes with great force, finding for itself a channel of scarcely less than one hundred and fifty feet in length. This place it is worth while to explore. On the isle, just above the innermost recesses of the chasm, is a little chamber richly adorned with Asplenium Marinum. Menavawr is seen to great advantage from St. Helen's ; and as you walk along the North West side of the isle, and look towards New Grimsby, the houses in that part of Tresco, with the boats and vessels riding peacefully on those ca:lm waters, and the rocks and islets in every direction, present a scene of beauty and of interest scarcely inferior to any which the Isles afford. The opposite shores of Tean,t between St. Helen's and St. Martin's, next invite your attention. The shape of this island is very irregular; and it has consequently several beautiful bays. On the North side of the island there is a chasm in the rock similar to that in "White Island, but much smaller. Mr. Smith has converted this isle into + A dissyllable, Te-an : the name is derived from St. Theona, to ■whom the island was dedicated. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 25 a preserve of white rabbits. " Ilere " writes Mr. "Woodley " are several remarkal)le earns. Near one of these ( called Yellow Cam ) arc the vestiges of a Druidical circle. Great Hill is a lofty eminence of singular abrupt- ness, especially towards the North. A high rock called Penbrose ( from the Cornu-British appellation Pedn Brauze, signifying the high head land ) lies about fifty yards to the North of this Island. The passage between Tean and St. Martin's is called Tean Sound. It is studded with rocks and ledges on each side, but has a good depth of water in the middle, and may be safely used by a skilful pilot." From the high ground of Tean the Light Ship at the Seven-Stones is distinctly seen in clear weather. Beyond it Eastward, the Land's End. Towards Tresco, the Harbour of Old Grimsby and St. Helen's Pool : on your left is St, Martin's ; and at its Southern extremity the pretty group of the Eastern Isles. Far away to the "West is St. Agnes and Annet ; while nearer in the same direc- tion lies the coast of St. Mary's, and the harbour ; the Pier and the Garrison. Here is a combination of objects similar to that seen from Bryher, and yet so different in their relative situation that the prospect has all the charms of variety, if not of novelty. From this isle the visitor may return to St. Mary's . Direct the helmsman to take the boat sufficiently near to the Hedge Rock, in your course to the Pool, to give you a good view of its form and dimensions THIRD EXCURSION. St. Agnes and the "Western Islets. "We propose as the object of this excursion, St. Agnes and the Western Islets. The tourist should consult his boatman as to the state of the tide, before determining whether St. Agnes shall be the first or the last point in this excursion. Supposing the latter course adopted, the visitor will have a pleasant sail to the Bishop. At a distance about two miles from Annet Head lies Crebawethan ; and almost linited with it towards the West is another islet distinguished by the name of Little Crebawethan. It was upon these rocks that the " Douro " was wrecked on the '28th January, 1843, and aU her crew perished. To the North of Crebawethan, where the waves are breaking, is the Gunner ; and, yet further in the same direction, the Nundeeps, rocks which make the passage through Broad Sound hazardous to those who are inexperienced in these seas. On the 21st of November in the same year in which the "Douro" was lost, a schooner from Smyrna, bound to London, struck upon the Gunner. She became a total wreck. The vessel and cargo were all lost. The crew took to their boat ; and, through God's mercy, safely reached Bryher, in the night. A -WEEK IN SCILLY. 27" 'fherc is no danger in approaching the Bishop after you have passed between Crebawethan and Round Eock which lies a little to the North "West ; though unless the weather is very fine and calm, it will be a matter of great difficulty and of some risk to land upon it. The position of the Light-house is certainly as picturesque as it is perilous and solitary. The first attempt to build a Light-house on the Bishop was made in 1849 ; a building was raised, formed of cast- iron columns, sunk in the rock, and braced and stayed by wrought-iron rods. It was completed up to the Lanthorn, but before that was added, the whole edifice was swept away during a severe gale on the night of the 6th of February, 1850, the cast-iron pillars snapped ofi" under the combined force of wind and waves. After this catastrophe, the Corporation of the Trinity House built the present Light-house of granite, which was completed and lit for the first time on the 1st of Septem.ber, 1868. The Light-house Commissioners who visited it in 1859 speak of the building as " magnificent and perhaps the most exposed in the world." In rough weather the spray goes over the top of the Light-housa one hundred and ten feet, and the head keeper who has been in both Eddystone and Longships, thinks the sea worse here, though not much "worse. The light is dioptricf difi'ering in this respect from St. Agnes Light, which is managed by a system of reflectors. At the top is a bell worked by machinery, to serve as a fog-signal. The cost of the illuminating apparatus was £1313 10s., that of the tower, its fittings, and the buildings on the mainland used by the light-keepers, £36,559 18s. 9d. At a distance of one mile and a half from the Bishop, in a Northerly direction, are the Crim Eocks. They lie a very little more to the West ; but the Light placed upon the Bishop gives suflicient notice of the presence of danger, to warn vessels coming in that du-ection. t TUcrc arc eight refractors of 8 to the circle ; with I'J zones of prisran, 13 above and 6 below the refractors ; fountain 4 conconlric . ■wick lamp, with regulating condenser. 28 A WEEK IN SCILLY. From the Bishop direct your boat towards EoseVeaf, noting as you sail along, the ledges and shoals and rocks which abound in these seas, and which have made the Isles of Scilly an object of such great terror. The best course Avill be to sail Eastwards to Crebawethan, so far returning in the track you came. The swell of the Western sea makes it difficult and hazardous to sail towards the South of llosevcar from the Bishop. As soon as you have passed Crebawethan, steer South South East, and you will soon see Jacky's Rock, memorable for the wreck of " The Thames" steamer, on the morning of the 4th of January, 1841, when on her passage from Dublin to London. The w^eather at the time was most unfavourable to any attempt to render assistance. Wl:en the calamity "Was discovered by the pilots on St. Agnes, the Avind was blowing North West to North North East, with heavj- storms of hail and rain mingled with snow. It was, there- fore, impossible to afford any effectual aid ; and out of sixty^five persons only four were saved. The records kept at the Light-house on St. Agnes preserve the remembrance of other shipwrecks on these dangerous rocks, not perhaps so awfully fatal, but accompanied with great loss of life. The long reef of rocks at your side is called " The Ponds. " Rosevear is still to the South, separated from The Ponds by a cUanncl called Santaspery Neck. Upon a rock close by this Neck, a schooner belonging to Plymouth and laden with wheat, struck on the 27th of March, 1849. She became a total wreck ; but the crew were happily saved and brought on shore by some of the intrepid inhabitants of St. Agues. From Rosevear you will be glad to survey at leisure the isles and rocks in the midst of which it stands. On it were erected the temporary dwellings of the workmen engaged in building the Light-house on the Bishop. The trouble of walking and scrambling over Eosevear will be repaid by a nearer view of the masses of rock which lie around, and which the ■waters of the great Western ocean are continually chafing. A WEEK IX SCILLY. 29 The Dutcli barque, " Nubicto, " on her passage from Batavia to Eotterdam, struck upon one of the sunken rocks to the South West of Rosvear on the 2 1st of February, 1844. She was totally wrecked; and two only of the crew escaped. Their preservation was remarkable. They contrived to reach Rosevear, where they passed many hours in a state of fearful anxiety and suspense. The weather was very thick and hazy ; and their signals of distress were unnoticed. Providentially, on the following day they were discovered, and released from their dismal situation. It is but right to add, that their melancholy case awakened the sympathies of the Islanders, and elicited substantial acts of kindness, which the gratitude of the sufferers well repaid. Close to Rosevear, towards the South, is Rosevean, and at some little distance South "West, the Gilstone, on which Sir Cloudesley Shovel was wrecked on the 22nd of October, 1707. *' Returning from Toulon in company with many other ships of war, in which were several distinguished personages, he came into soundings on the moining of tfie 22nd of October, 1707, and found his ship in nineteen fathoms of water. The weather at this time was thick and foggy, and the wind blowing strong ; which, with the supposition that they were nearing the land, induced him to make signal for the fleet to lay to. At six in the evening the admiral made sail again, and was followed by the rest of his fleet. This had scarcely been done before he hoisted signals of danger, which were repeated by several other ships, as a warning to those at a distance to keep oflf to sea. Sir George Byng, in the "Royal Anne," who was at this time about half a mile to windward of him, saw the breakers, and soon afterwards the rocks. His safety depended on the energies of a moment : for so near was his ship to a dangerous rock called the Tenemean, as to have it under his main chains, and as the ship passed, it knocked off the larboard quarter gallery, but happily he escaped without sustaining any further mischief. 30 A WEEK IN SCILLY. " About eight o'clock at night, the admiral's ship, the 'Association,' struck upon the Gilstonc with so much violence, that in about two minutes the vessel went down, and every soul on board, but one, perished. This man saved himself on a piece of timber, which floated to a rock called the Hellweathers, where he was compelled to remain some days before he could receive any assistance. Besides the ' Association,' the ' Eagle,' of 70 guns, Capt. Hancock, and the ' Romney,' of 50 guns, Capt. Cory, perished with all their crews. The ' Firebrand,' fire-ship was also lost, but Capt. Percy who commanded her, and most of his men were saved. The ' Phoenix,' fire-ship, Capt. HaHsom, ran on shore, but was afterwards got off. The ' St. George,' commanded by Lord Dursley, seems to have escaped miraculously. She struck on the same rocks with the admiral, but the very same wave that beat out the lights of the ' Association,' lifted the ' St. George ' from the rocks, and set her afloat again." " Besides the admiral, there perished on this occasion, Capt. Lodes of the ' Association,* Sir John Narborough and his brother James, sons of Lady Shovel by a former husband ; Mr. Trelawney, eldest son to the Bishop of "Winchester, and about 2000 men."t From these dangerous "Western rocks direct your course towards Annet. The isle to the East of Rosevean is Oorregan, and between the two, are high rocks called the Rags. Gorregan is a lofty islet, uncultivated, and about half a mile round. A single rock lies within Gorregan, named the Biggal of Gorregan. North East from Gorregan, is Meledgan,J and between this and Annet, are an almost countless multitude of rocks, which make the services of a trusty pilot absolutely necessary. + Drew. t At daylight on the 12th February, 1842, the top-gallant mast of a brig appeared above water, a little inside Gorregan. She proved to be the " William Proben," of South Shields, laden with ■wheat, and it is supposed that she stnick on one of the Southern- most rocks. All the crew had perished, and no exact information could be gained on this subject. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 31 Sailing by the reef of rocks called Hellweathers, and landing on the South East point of Annet, you should direct your steps towards the North Western extremity of the isle, called Annet Head. Here the rocks are of a fine, picturesque character, and form a prominent feature in the view from the other isles. In the North East extremity of Annet is a chasm called Lake Anthown ; it is about forty yards long, from three to four wide, and seven deep as far as has been traced, and has been supposed, without sufficient evidence, to have been an old iron mine. Annet is not inhabited. It contains about forty acres, which afford some tolerable pasturage for a few head of cattle. From this island you will gain a closer view of the Great Smith, a remarkably fine rock, lifting as it were its head out of the deep waters. It is especially bold on the Western side, and serves as a mark for different places, chiefly perhaps for the North West passage of the Broad Sound. The rock to the South East is the Little Smith. From Annet the distance is but short across Smith's Sound to St. Agnes. You will land at Priglis Bay, so called from the Church near it. J Some writers have changed the name into Pericles Bay, and absurdly deduced from it an argument in support of the alleged Phoenician commerce with these Islands. In the fields behind this bay some urns or pots have been discovered in digging. The origin of this Church deserves to be mentioned. In the year 1685, a French vessel struck upon the rocks, and the inhabitants of St. Agnes who repaired immediately to her assistance, having found her deserted, took possession, and with some exertion conducted her to St. Mary's. Here she was claimed by the captain, who, with the rest of his crew, had safely arrived thither in their boats. The islanders received a considerable sum for salvage, and being at that time without any place of worship, they agreed, with a unanimity that did honour to their piety, to appropriate the money to the building of a Churcli, which Ava& t See Note to Introductory Chupter. 32 A WEEK IN SCILtY. accordingly done. The Church, so built, stood at the North West comer of the burial ground, and was replaced about forty years since by the present larger building, f Keeping at the back of the Church and near the sea, you will be able to make your way with little difficulty round this part of the island. The rocks which form the cliff are very picturesque and beautiful. Different in character from most of the groups in Scilly, they shoot up into sharp points. The high earn which next presents itself is Castle Bean ; and from it you will quickly reach St. Warna Bay, of which the legend is, that it derives its name from a saint who landed at this spot from Ireland. St. Warna was formerly invoked by the islanders as a benefactress in times of distress, sending wrecks and directing and presiding over other good fortune. St. Warna's Well is now filled up, lest, says Troutbeck, " the cattle or sheep should push one another into it when they came to drink," but its apparent size makes the statement doubtful. Near this bay, upon somewhat higher ground, is a curious rock, called the Nag's Head. Ou this Southern side of St. Agnes occur in succession fine promontories of rock jutting out into the sea, and warm, sunny coves or bays. Each of these beautiful cams, Avhich gird the island, has its particular designation : but it would be wearisome and useless to enquire names, forgotten as soon as heard. You must not fail, however, to see the Punch Bowl, a curious rock on the Wingletang Downs, to the South East of the Light-house. This rock has been supposed to be the Logan-stone on St. Agnes, described by Borlase in the following terms : — " There is a very remarkable Stone of this kind on the Island of St, Agnes in Scilly. The under rock is ten foot six high, forty seven feet in circumference round the middle, and touches the ground with no more than half its base. The t The visitor may with advantage proceed from the Church to the Light-house, ( for a description of which see page 34 ) ami afterwards resume the route pursued in the text. A WEEK I>f SCILLY. 33 upper Rock rests on one point only, so nice, that t'.vo or three men, with a Pole, can move it ; it is eight feet six high, and forty seven in girt. On the top is a large Basin, three feet eleven in diameter, ( at a medium ) at the brim wider, and three foot deep : by the globular shape of this upper Stone, I guess it has been rounded by art at least, if it was not placed on the hollow surface of the rock it rests upon by human force, which appears to me not unlikely." The deep bay on the Southern side of St. Agnes, whose waters at spring tides mingle Avith those of the Western Ocean flowing into Perconger, over the bar of sand which separates the Gugh from the main land of St. Agues, is called the Cove. It affords a most happy and convenient place for the islanders to obtain supplies of fish. The inhabitants of the different Isles (with the excep- tion of those on St. Martin's and Tresco, who draw their nets elsewhere) haul the cove, as the phrase is, in turn ; and it usually falls to the lot of each isle to haul twice in the course of the season. Not unfrequently a very large quantity of fish, between eighty and one hundred and forty baskets, is secured in a single night, each basket containing on an average, three hundred fish. The store, thus gathered from the deep, forms a main article of provisions for the winter. Crossing the bar of sand the tourist should find time for a walk on the Gugh. It would seem that in Borlase's time this peninsula was never divided from St. Agnes, but by high and boisterous tides ; it is now always an island at spring tides, when there is a depth of water on tlic bar sufiicient for a boat to shoot across it. Sentinel at the North-West of the Gugh stands the Kittern, a fine picturesque rock, well worthy of notice. At the distance of about a quarter of a mile East by South of the Kittern is the Bow. The South Eastern point of land is called on the chart Bropnose Point, from a rock which bears that name at a small distance from the shore ; and near to this, Eastwards, is another with equal propriety called "Wctnosc. 34 A WKEK IN SCILIi"X. There are several barrows upon the Gugh. At the North West extremity the visitor will sec one between thirteen and fourteen feet- long, four feet broad, and between two and three feet high. This lies on nearly the highest point of that part of the Gugh, just at the back, so to speak, of the Kitteru. Two more of these burial places may be discovered on the highest points of land towards the South East. They are not so large as the former ; nor have they so distinctly the marks of tombs, being nearly filled with soil and rubbish. Still further in the same direction are two other barrows ; one in that heap of rocks which is called, for some uncertain reason, The Works. The other barrow lies on the high ground between The Works and the South West extremity of the Gugh. The latter is clearly seen from The Works and is not at a greater distance from them than fifty or sixty yards. This, the more Southern barrow, is between fourteen and fifteen feet in length, four feet six inches in breadth, and one foot six inches in depth. This barrow has four top or covering stones. Nearly in the centre of the Gugh is a pillar-stone. It is called by the islanders " the old man cutting turf " and is nine feet in length and seven feet in girth. Unlike the pillar-stones on St. Mary's, which stand quite erect, its inclination is so great that the top of it is not more thau six feet and a half in perpen- dicular beight from the ground. For whatever purpose it may have been originally placed, it is now used as a mark by the pilots for bringing vessels safely into the Road or Harbour, free of the Spanish ledges, a dangerous reef at the South Eastern entrance of St. Mary's Sound. The Light-house requires a particular description. Its position was well chosen, so that it might serve not only as a beacon by night, but as a mark by day, and to aid this purpose, we shall find on approaching it that its walls are plastered of a dazzling whiteness. The Light-house was first built in 1G80, by the Corporation of the Trinity House, and for more than a century the light was obtained A WEEK. IN SCIILY. 35 by incaTis of a coal fire ; coals in large quantities -were kept burning near the top, and sometimes stirred with an iron rod. According to Heatb, tbe flame thus produced was visible at a " vast distance upon the sea ; yet before the coming of this present Light-keeper," he adds, " I've known it scarcely perceivable in the night at the island of St. Mary's, where it now looks like a comet. And some are of opinion ( not without reason ) that in the time of the former Light-keeper, it has been sufi"ered to go out, or sometimes not lighted."t Such a mode of lighting is obviously rude and imperfect, even when carefully managed, and in 1790, the Corporation provided the Light-house with the present system of argand-lamps and reflectors. The lamps, thirty in number, are symmetrically arranged on the faces of a triangular prism which is made to revolve about its axis once in three minutes, so that every point in the horizon receives the full blaze of light once a minute ; the revolution is effected by clock-work, which once wound up will keep the machine in motion four hours. Each lamp has a parabolic reflector at its back, made of copper, lined with beaten silver. The lantern is about twenty feet high, and its floor is about fifty feet from the ground : outside it is a gallery used in cleaning its windows, whence the visitor can command a magnificent view of all the Islands, and if the weather be at all clear can also see the distant coast tff Cornwall. This prospect will well repay the trouble of climbing to the lantern, whilst the beautiful order and management within the Light-house will probably excite admiration. This excursion will have already occupied a summer's day, but if the cove is to be hauled at dark, the visitor may be induced to prolong his stay at St. Agnes till midnight. + It was possibly in consequence of some report of these irregu- larities that Whiston made his ■wonderful proposal to Parliament in 1716, " that a ball of light or fire be thrown up from St. Mary's every midnight and three times more every night, such as may afford light above a degree of a great circle or sixty geographical miles, and the sound heard above one third of that distance, both of which we know from frequent experience may certainly be done." "^6 A WEEK IN SCILLY. When the hour fixed for hauling has arrived, he should take up his position on the bar of sand crossed in visiting the Gugh. The net, which had heen spread at the further extremity of the cove, is gradually drawn to the shore, and its contents will hi deposited upon the sand. The scene is altogether striking. The multitude of fishes bouncing about on the giound, the dim lanterns moving here and there through the dark night, — for hauling takes place before moon-rise, — the lapping waters, and the splashing fish, concur to make this midnight excursion novel and interesting. The fish taken are principally scads ; though not untrequently the haulers may be fortunate enough to get some red mullet, a salmon peel, or other choice fish. FOURTH EXCURSION. St. Martin's and the Eastern Islets. Sailing from St. Mary's pier in a Northerly course the first point which invites attention is Cam Morval, forming the North East houndary of St. Mary's Pool or Harbour. Wc have referred to this fine bold mass of rocks in our Introductory Chapter ; and we must ask the reader to turn back to it, and reverse the course therein described through Crow Sound to the Eastern Isles. The first appearance of this Eastern group is very pleasing. Borlase says " These Islets and Rocks edge this Sound in an extremely pretty, and very different manner from anything I had seen before. The sides of these little Islands continue their greenness to the brim of the water, where they are either surrounded by rocks of different shapes, which start up here and there as you advance, like so many enchanted castles, or by a verge of sand of the brightest colour. The sea, having eaten away passages between these hillocks, forms several pretty pools and lakes, and the crags which kept their stations, look so broken, intercepted, and so numerous, that the whole seemed but one large grotesque piece of rock -work." 38 A WEEK. IN SCILLY. The ranst convenient landing on Little Ganinick, the- more Southerly of the two islets -which lie to the West- ward of this little archipelago is upon the Eastern side. This island, which contains between three and four acres, is at low water connected with Great Ganinick by a reef of rocks, so that you may easily pass from the one to the other ; but at high water there is between them a channel, seven feet, if not more, in depth. A suitable place for landing on Great Ganinick will be found at the North East end. There is not, however, except in the view which it offers of the adjoining islands, anything to repay the trouble. The area of Great Ganinick is about five acres and both isles are covered with long thick grass. Great Arthur and Little Arthur contain from fifteen to twenty acres. These isles may be properly considered as one ; for it is only at high tides that the water washes over the stones which separate them, and at these times the waves flow also over the ridge of rocks which unites the Northern to the Southern extremity of Great Arthur : so that, in fact, this isle is at very high tides broken up into three islets. A bay of sand between Great and Little Arthur affords a convenient landing place. Several barrows in more or less perfect condition, occur on Great Arthur. The best is on the Eastern hill, and is described by "Woodley as consisting of a cromlech and sepulchral cave, in very good order. The walls of this cave are large flat stones, laid with their edges smooth ; and two very large stones are laid flat at the head of the grave, which appears to have been opened. It is about twelve feet long, four feet deep, and five feet and a half wide ; and is surrounded by an artificial mound, about forty yards in circumference. There are also the ruins of two small houses, which were the temporary accomodations of parties who formerly resorted to this convenient place for the purpose of burning Kelp. At the North East side of Little Arthur, is a large fiat lock, called Arthur's Table. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 39 On Little Ganilly, whick comprises about six acres, the "visitor may land at either end, according to the wind. Next to it is Ragged Island, so called from its very rough and uneven surface. It contains perhaps an acre and a half. Great Ganilly looks well from the water. Its highest ground is about one hundred and seven feet above the sea> and it is]the largest of these Eastern Isles, containing an area variously estimated from sixteen to twenty acres. The best place for landing is on the West side, towards the South ■ em end of it. From the higher points of land there is a very good view of the Seven Stones, which may be recognised by the line of white foam, caused by the breaking of the sea upon these rocks. The Reef so called lies somewhat less than three leagues from the Islands. It extends about one mile from North North West to South South East, and is perhaps the same distance in breadth. The two points of rock at the extremities of this dangerous reef, shewing themselves at half-tide only, are the Pollard to the North and the South Stone. In the Pollard two rings have been fixed, for the use of those who may wish to land upon the rock. There is very good fishing ground near these rocks much visited by the fishermen of Scilly. The Light-ship was moored iu August, 1841, about two miles to the East of the Seven Stones ; and at present rides in very nearly the same position. Menewethan lies to the South West of Great Ganilly ; and those who can scramble may land on its Western side ; but the best view, perhaps, of this fine mass of rocks Ls from the water. This island contains from four to five acres, and its highest point is eighty -seven feet above mean water. To the North of Menewethan are Great and Little Inisvouls. The larger of these contains about two acres, the smaller, one ; at low water both are united. Great Inisvouls is also connected with Great Ganilly by an isthmus of rock after the tide has ebbed for four hours. 40 A WEEK IN SCILLY. Til Between these isles the inhabitants of St. Martin's and of Tresco haul for their Winter stock of fish. They shoot out five coils of line, each containing twenty fathoms, in an Easterly direction towards Hanjague ; and having drawn the seine to the shore they " tuck up " the fish into their boats, and return homewards, where they divide their spoil. Hanjague, which from its conical shape, is commonly called the Sugar Loaf, is eighty-three feet in height, and the Avater around it is twenty-five fathoms deep. A landing can be efi'ected only when the sea is quite calm, but it is worth while to approach the rock for the sake of a closer view. The Mouls, between Inisvouls and Hanjague, always presents three pointed rocks considerably above the surface of the water ; and is not, therefore, dangerous. Nornor is also distinguished by three points of rock, of which the Western is the highest ; and contains about three acres. The easiest place for landing is on the Southern side ; but in attempting to land on this or any other isle exposed to the swell of the ocean, the side of the isle or rock most sheltered from the wind should generally be chosen. St. Martin's may be visited after Nornor. This island is about two miles long, six mQes round, and has an average breadth of three quarters of a mile. St. Martin's formerly suflered much from sands blown across it by the winds, and hedges and other marks of enclosure and cultivation may be traced in parts which are now abandoned to the sand. From the same cause the island was gradually deserted, and in the middle of the seventeenth century, it had not a single inhabitant. Mr. Ekinis, the first steward that resided upon the Islands under the Godolphin family, and the builder of the Day-mark, to be presently described, encouraged a re-settlement of St. Martin's, and it has nowapopidation of one hundred and eighty-five persons. The sandy soil is pre-eminently favourable to the cultivation of potatoes ; there is a little good pasture, but as the ground is shallow and the bottom rocky, the island suJQfers much from drought. ' A WEEK IN SCILLY. 41 The inhabitants reside in three portions of the isle, severally called Higher, Middle, and Lower Town. Of these Higher Town is in every respect the most considerable. Its site is more eligible than that of the other two, as it is built on the high ground at the Southern extremity. The Church stands a little to the North of the principal houses, but as there is not a resident clergyman it can be opened for divine service only during the summer months ; and then very occasionally. On this, as on the three other principal islands, there is an Infant School, as well as one for the elder children. The best landing place on St. Martin's is Perpitch Bay to the West of Carniweathers. A pleasant walk leads thence along the Eastern extremity of the isle to the Day-mark. This walk is the more inviting, from the distinct view which it affords of the pretty isles we have just described. The fine, bold, precipitous mass of rock at the most Northerly point of the East end of St. Martin's is about one hundred and sixty feet in height. On the summit of this rocky headland ia the Day-mark ; which is somewhat above thirty feet high ; and, from its position is visible at a distance of many leagues. The mark was built as we have said by Mr. Ekinis, and over the door are his initials T. E., with the date 1683. There is a stone staircase within leading to the top of the tower, whence there is a very extensive view in fine weather. During the last war a house was built near the Day -mark, for the use of the officer who had charge of the telegraph erected on this spot, but when peace was proclaimed it was to a gi-eat extent demolished by the islanders, either in the exuberance of their joy, or from the selfish motive of turning its materials to more profitable account. This signal station was of considerable use during the great war. It is remembered that, on one occasion, a boat belonging to St. Mary's put off to a vessel, with the intention of ofi"cring some fresh fish for sale. She proved to be a French ship ; and the English boat was soon sunk, 42 A WEEK IN SCILLY. and the crew made prisoners. Presently a signal was observed at St. Martin's head, which informed Captain Pellew that a French vessel was in sight. He immediately gave chase and brought her to action between the Isles and and the Lizard. After a very destructive engagement, the Frenchman was captured, and the islanders who had been sent ijelow during the fight, were released. The ship was taken to Plymouth. In other instances, not a few, the communications made by the oflicer on duty at this station proved the means of safety to our merchantmen and ships of war. Hanjague is due South East from the Day-mark. The two Chapel-rocks and Hardlewis-rocks lie East and East South East from the same point. They are not visible until half-tide. Stretching to the West of St. Martin's B ead is a deep bay, called Bread and Cheese Cove. The Eastern side of this cove is Chapel Brow ; and the ridge of rocks running from the high ground to the sea is very bold and picturesque. Loop-hole Point is the name given by the islanders to the Western end of this cove ; and the next bay is called Stony Perth. The promontory which forms the Western side of Stony Portli is Burnt Hill ; a name probably derived from the appearance of the ground. The outer extremity of this headland is at high spring tides separated from the main- land of St. Martin's, and bears the name of Eat Island. Opposite Burnt Hill towai'ds the North is a large rock, the Murr, so called, according to Woodley, from the sea-bird of that name by which it is frequented ; but whatever may have been the case formerly, it is not now frequented by this or by any other sea-bird. A little to the West is Culver Hole, which has been sup • posed to be an old tin-work. There is, however, no doubt but that it is a natural excavation ; and the curious arch at the entrance of the hole or cavern, which will probably be swept away, ere long, by the encroaching tide, was formed by the falling away of the earth around it. At the distance of only a few yards to the West is another recess in the cliff of very similar appearance to Culver Hole. A WEEK IN SCILLT. ' 45 The head-land lying still more to the "West is called Turfy Hill. Bull's Forth, above which are some fine rocks, is the name given to the bay between Burnt Hill and Turfy Hill. The rocks which lie off this part of the isle, at some little distance in the sea, make it very dangerous to approach. To the West North "West of Murr Kock is Sandy's Ledge, Mackerel Eock, and Merrick Ledge. From Turfy Hill, the bay, which bears the name of the island, stretches to the North "West. It is half a mile in length, and has a tine sandy shore. On the Eastern side of it are three mounds of earth, of considerable size, which are called the Frenchmen's Graves ; a name probably derived from the wreck upon these rocks of some vessel belonging to France. It is not unlikely, the bodies, of the crew were deposited in these sands. Forming the Western side of this bay, and nearly the extreme point to the North of St. Martin's :s a high earn, called Top Eock, which was- split with thunder on November 20th, 1751. So at least says Troutbeck, who gives a full account of this disaster. Due North of this Carn is "White Island, to which the visitor may pass on foot at low water. This isle contains by estimation fifty acres, f and is chiefly remarkable for a deep cavern situated nearly in the middle of its Eastern side. Into this cavern it is possible to enter only at low tides ; and those who have examined it, say you can pene- trate twenty or thirty fathoms ^vithout reaching the end of it. It is supposed to have been an old tin-work, its direction is East and "West. There is a rock on the surface of the ground, which, in the opinion of some of the islanders, marks the extreme distance to which you can go under the ground. OS the North "Western end of St. Martin's and due "West of "White Island is Pernagic Isle, which, as well as Plumb Isle, lying to the South and nearer St. Martin's, can be reached di-y-shod, when the tide has ebbed two hours.. + Troutbeck, who is copied by Woodley. 44 A WEEK m SCILLY. At low tides it is possible to walk to Lion Rock, which is not far from Pcrnagic Isle. On the dangerous brow of rocks which connects Lion Rock with Pernagic Isle, a vessel called the " Palinurus " was wrecked on the 27th of December, 1848. Seventeen bodies were recovered ; and on the thirtieth, twelve were buried together in the church-yard of St. Mary's. Two were subsequently interred near the same spot ; and the other three lie in the church-yard of St. Martin's. The vessel was bound from Demerara to England, and must, therefore, from some cause or other, have lost her proper course ; but none survived to explain the deviation, or to tell who and how many had perished. To the "West South "West of Lion Rock is Black Rock, between which and Round Island is the Channel for vessels sailing into Old Grimsby Harbour. The name given by the islanders to the cove between Pernagic Point and Tinkler's Point, is Persile Bay. Tinkler's Point is nearly the most "Western promontory of St. Martin's ; and on it is a rock which bears the same name as the point. Near this are two circles of erect stones, (each circle about sixty feet in circumference,) and an ancient barrow. A visitor will have some difSculty in making out these circles, as some of the stones have been lately taken away for building houses near at hand. To the South by West is a small hole in the cliff which gives its name to Goat's Point ; and close to the shore, opposite the island of Tean, is a large heap of rocks, called Bab's Cam, from a family of that name, who lived close by it. A pleasant walk leads hence along the good road recently made connecting the Eastern and "Western extremities of ihe island. The prospect from the South Eastern end of the road, in front of the houses, is very beautiful. The cultivated fields sloping towards the sea, present either from above or from below a pleasing appearance of fertility. Cruther's Bay, or, as it is marked in the map, Higher Town Bay, with its A WEEK IN SCILLY. 45 watch house, and the pilot boats riding at anchor in its calm waters ; Cruther's Hill on the right, stretching out into the sea and forming the South "Western point of the Bay, which is bounded on the East by English Point Carn ; these several featUi-es in the scenery combined with the more distant objects, present a view of great interest and beauty. The beach on the "Western and Southern sides of St. Martin's has so very gradual a slope from the shore, that at low water it is not possible to reach the island even in small boats. This sand, called St. Martin's Flats, is one of the chief places in the Isles for the collectors of shells, especially towards its Southern end, between Guthers Isle and Higher Town. ST. MARY'S. Two days may easily be devoted to St. Mary's. It is the largest isle of the group, being about nine miles in circum- ference, and it exceeds in population all the other islands put together. The island consists of two peninsulas of very unequal size connected by a low sandy isthmus, on which is built Huo-h Town. The smaller peninsula is fortified, and called the Garrison, and the walk around it within the ramparts is very pleasing. The situation of Hugh Town, is, in many respects, bad ; the houses are so low that they are often flooded in Winter, when a storm happens at a spring-tide ; nor was it till the sixteenth century that it became the chief place in the island. Before that time Old Town wus the principal village, but when the Garrison was fortified in the reign of EUizabeth, Hugh Town naturally rose in importance. Its name is derived from Hugh, the former name of the small peninsula on which the Garrison is placed, which appears to signify " the high place," and to corres- pond to the Hoe so frequent in Devonshire. The houses in Ilugh Town are for the most part small, but they are almost A "WEEK. IS SCILLY. 4? universally furnished with neatness and comfort, and the visitor is at once struck by the appearance of prosperity among the inhabitants, which wider knowledge will show to be borne out by reality. There are several shops of some pretension, in which almost every article of domestic use may generally be obtained. The main street leads from the landward end of the pier past the Custom House, (built in 1841) along the sandy isthmus we have mentioned, and then opens into a wider one called the Parade. Keeping to the right hand of this, a road which passes by an Infant and a National School on the left takes the visitor to the new Church. The old church which we shall notice in the perambulation of the island was about half-a-mile distant ; its grave-yard is still the place of burial of St. Mary's and part of the church left standing is occasionally used as a cemetery chapel, A tablet in the new chiuxh tells us that it was erected in 1837, at the cost of King "William IV., and was completed at the expense of Mr. Smith. It was in fact begun when the King held the islands as Duke of Cornwall, and finished by Mr. Smith after he became the Lessee. The visitor who has arrived at Scilly by the " Little "Western," and intends to remain only a few days cannot do better than begin by an evening stroll around the Garrison when he has reft'cshed himself after his voyage. In the course of the walk he will see a succession of beautiful prospects, rendered still more beautiful by the effects of the setting sun, and he will at the same time get a clear conception of the relative position of the several islands. GARRISON. The approach to it is by a somewhat steep hill rising to a height of 110 feet above the level of the sea. Over the entrance-gate hangs a large bell which is rung at certain fixed hours of the day ; and within the gate on the left hand is the guard-room, containing the clock which regulates the ringing of the bell, and an excellent^ 48 A WEEJt IN SCILLf. barometer placed there some years since by the then inspecting commander Capt. Hall, R. N., for the especial use of pilote and ship- masters. A broad walk leads from the gate to the Star Castle, which stands on the highest ground "within the enclosure, and is so called from its star-like shape due to its eight salient angles. The letters E. R. and the date 1593, sculptured over the door, show the date of its erection. Within are several semicircular rooms, in one of which is a small but excellent library given by the associates of the late Rev. Dr. Bray, for the use of the clergy of the islands. The building of the Star Castle was a consequence of the Spanish Armada, but little use was made of it before the next century. In 1637, Dr. Bastwick was confined there by the order of the Star Chambers for his attacks on Episcopacy, and he remained immured in it, until released by the I^ong Parliament. In IG^G, Charles the Second, then Prince of Wales, being obliged to quit Pendennis Castle, landed in Scilly, on the 4th March ; and lodged in Star C3astle until the 1 7th April, when he sailed for the Channel Islands, leaving Sir John Granville in possession, the history of whose command will be found in a subsequent chapter. From that time there was little to distinguish Star Castle, until the month of September, 1 846, when the Queen, the late Prince Albert, the Prince of Wales, and the Princess Royal, visited it in the course of a voyage around the Western coast. From Star Castle, the road along the North side of the Garrison enclosure may be followed. The view looking North takes in the whole of the pool and roads, bounded by St. Martin's on the North East, Tresco and Bryher, on the North, and a little to the left of the last appear the two conical hills of Sampson. Within the Garrison itself a battery named Jefferson's, is seen to the North East, furnished with one nine-pounder, and two six-pounder guns, and three eighteen-pounder carronades, whilst near it, on the left, is the Master Gunner's Battery, with three eighteen-pounder carronades, protecting the Master Gunner's House. Continuing the walk the bomb-proof A WEEK IN SCELLY. 49 store-house is passed, and the store-house battery Avlth three thirty-two pounders and one eighteen pounder, looking N. W. by N. ; and still further on, the entrance to the Eoad is protected by Charles's Battery, with two thirty-two-pounders fronting N. W. It is impossible to take this walk on a Summer evening without starting innumerable rabbits, which scamper across the paths in all directions. A few years since Mr. Smith placed some deer in the enclosure, but he did not succeed in rearing any. The most westerly point of the Garrison is called the Steval, from a rock of the same name just opposite to it. An eighteen pounder is placed here. The point commands a good view of the Bishop Light House in the extreme South West. The next battery is Bartholomew's, armed with three eighteen pounders ; it is immediately opposite St. Agnes, the Light House of which is of course distinctly visible. A Summer sunset seen from this part of the walk is often a spectacle of great beauty, and the visitor who is fortunate enough to enjoy it will probably be not ungrateful to Mr. Smith for the benches placed judiciously here and there along the promenade. At t'ae Woolpack Battery, opposite the Woolpack rock, and facing South, are four, thirty-two-pounder, and four, eighteen-pounder guns, one eighteen-pounder being on a wooden carriage, and pointed at the salient angle. From the interior of this battery there is a good view of the pretty Cam which stands at this Southern point of the garrison . The Batteries which follow this are the Morning Point (five thirty-two pounders ), and Bentam's ( one eighteen pounder and one nine pounder ). The view at these points takes in the open sea at the south, and the little bay of Porcrasa, bounded on the opposite side by the rocks of Peninis, and when the Duke of Leed's Battery with its three eighteen- pounder carronades is reached, the visitor looks down on the houses of Hugh Town. A little further on. King George's Battery of four eighteen pounder carronades, close to the gate marks the end of the circuit. 60 A WEEK IN SCILIY. We have described this walk as seen on a Summer's evening, but its beauty is not less striking, though of a diiFerent order during a Wintry gale. The little peninsula everywhere bounded by a rocky shore is then encircled on the leeward side by a ring of furious foam, whilst on the windward the waves are continually rising and brealcing on the rocks. Huge waves course through the roads, and the outlying islands are partially hidden by sheets of foam. The mildness of the climate allows the most delicate persons to venture out and enjoy the spectacle without experiencing any greater inconvenience than that of having to face the force of the wind , and the spectator safe on land may often feel the proverbial pleasure of watching a stout vessel labouring with the gale. PENINIS, &c. The rocks at Peninis ( the Head of the Island ) are the boldest and finest to be seen in Scilly, and their fantastic shapes afford the best examples of the disintegration for which the granite of the islands is remarkable. There are two ways of reaching Peninis, but whichever route be chosen the visitor mnst first proceed towards Porcrasa, a fine bay on the Southern side of the island, extending from the Garrison to Buzza Hill. From Porcrasa he may pursue a foot-path, through the fields skirting the bay on the left, which leads directly to the head-land or by following another path which tends in a South Easterly dirociion from the end of Buzza Street, he may ascend Buzza Hill, recognizable by its windmill, and proceed thence to the point. The view from the summit is extensive, and the hill itself with its masses of grey stone protruding between ferns and furze bushes is not wanting in picturesqueness. Three barrows are said to have once existed on this hill, but only one to the South West of the wind mill is now discoverable ; the others were not improbably destroyed, to furnish material for the mill, or for some similar purpose. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 51 These, who has made the circuit of the Garrison, will be able to name most of the objects seen from Buzza Hill. The panorama is the same regarded from a different point of view ; to the North are Hugh Town, the Pool, Sampson, Bryher and Tresco, and a little to the "West of South, St. Agnes with its Lighthouse ; but ascending the sloping ground which lies towards the South, a new and com- manding view of Peninis is obtained, and midway between this station and the headland, lies a earn called the Dutchman's cam which deserves notice. Proceeding from this earn to the point, a remarkable group of rocks on some upper ground is first reached. They are called the Kettle and Pans from the deep and beautifully curved rock-basins found on them, which were long supposed to have been used in, if not made for, the rites of Druidical worship. Dr. Borlase who published in 1756, a short narrative of a visit to Scilly, gives a long description of these basins which it is not necessary to quote. He indulged in very fanciful suggestions as to their use, and called attention to the fact, that at a little distance from them, " there shoots up a pro- digious rock, thin, pyramidal, twelve feet at the base, and thirty feet high, not improbably an object of the Druid Devotion." Both the basins and the thin pyramidal rock are however the effect of the same natural action which has produced the other fantastic forms of Peninis, nor is there a tittle of evidence that any of them were ever used in Druidical worship. In the paper read before the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall, by the late Mr. Joseph Carne, F. R. S., printed in the appendix to this volume, will be found an excellent description of the action of decomposition and disintegration ; but a short summary of it may not be out of place here. The granite of Scilly is remarkable for its jointed structure ; the rocks are intersected by lines which in fact correspond to these planes and are generally reducible to one of three systems ; they are either horizontal, or vertical, and North and South, or vertical and East and West. At these joints the action of decomposition is easy, and the blocks of granite are changed by it into the form of cheeses or columns, according as the 52 A WEEK IN SCILLY. planes arc horizontal or vertical. In the formation of rock basins the granite is actually disentegrated or worn to its elements, instead of being separated into masses ; this pro- cess is most actively carried on where the granite is most exposed to wind and rain. At Peninis decomposition and disintegration may be seen in all its stages, cracks extending vertically, and masses separating into horizontal layers, are constantly met with, and rock-basins occur in the first form of a mere finger-mark, then as a perfect spherical hollow, sometimes five or six feet in diameter, and three feet deep, and then a lip is broken and the basin becomes after a time an easy chair or a couch end. At the bottom of the basin a little rain water will generally be found continuing the work of destruction, and in the basin grains of quartz and felspar, which has been freed from the granite. From the Kettle and Pans, the visitor may proceed to the extremity of the head -land. He must however be prepared for a scramble and must take care that the tide does not intercept his return. On the way the pyramidal rock mentioned by Dr. Borlase, called the Tooth Eock will be easily recognized. The peculiar rock on the top of the head-land bearing the appropriate name of the Monk's Cowl, may be reached with a little difficulty. It is one hundred and four feet, seven inches above the mean level of the sea. Returning from the point the way may be retraced to Pitt's Parlour just under the Tooth Rock. The explana- tion usually given of this name is, that in days long since gone by, a party of friends, of whom a Mr. Pitt was one, were wont to spend their Summer evenings together in this retired and romantic spot. From this height, may be commanded a fine view of the Southern ocean, when lashed into fury by a storm. If the wind has prevailed for some time from the South or the South "West, the waves break very grandly at the base of the rocks, the sheets of spray dash over the masses of granite which await their onset, and with a deafening roar the tide rushes up the narrow ravine or channel which, in he lapse of ages, the waters have hollowed for themselves. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 53 It is scarcely necessary to direct a visitor's attention to the large masses of rock before, above, and on either side of him. The semicircle of high, bold rocks, which is crowned by the Monk's Cowl, presents a grand appearance from Pitt's Parlour ; and fine blocks of granite, of every shape and size, are scattered in all directions around. By going to the other side of the ravine which lies beneath and opposite to the Parlour, a different and not less imposing view of the promontory will be obtained. Here, too, imbedded among huge piles of rock, is Sleep's abode, (called also a parlour.) It is both difficult of approach and hard to be found ; but the trouble of searching it out is well rewarded by a sight of the vast masses of rock which are there heaped together. From Peninis around the cliffs in an Easterly direction, a path towards Old Town may be followed, in the course of which several rocks of curious shapes and various dimensions will be passed. On the right is a far-extending and irregular field of rock, for almost every part of which the islanders have a particular name. Here is the Jolly Rock, marked in the map, which is often visited by fishing parties ; and here too, in the cliff, is Piper's Hole, at the distance of fifteen or twenty feet below the turf trod by the pedestrian. The latter is, however, a wretched little cave, and is not worth the fatigue and trouble of search, unless it be for the purpose of obtaining a draught from the clear spring of fresh water which is certainly found within it. From Piper's Hole the distance is but short to the Pulpit Rock, a remarkable specimen of the effect of horizontal decomposition. It is difficult to conceive a rock more curiously perched than that which bears this appropriate name. It consists of a flat rock forty-seven feet in length, and twelve feet in (mean) breadth, branching out from a short thick rock as from a pillar. It projects horizontally over a smaller rock, which might well serve as a pulpit to one, who, with a voice louder than that of Stentor, would essay to address in language of exhortation or command the captains of a fleet assembled on the waters beneath him. The flat rock above his head would worthily 54 A WEEK IN SCILLY. supply tlie place of a sounding board ; and if it were possible to conceive the voice of man reaching from this point to sailors on the deep below, the pulpit and the sounding board would be in good keeping with the grandeur and sublimity of the scene. It is easy to mount to the top of the sounding board ; and thus to form a more correct opinion of the length and breadth of this curious rock, which is one of the most conspicuous features in the scenery of the coast. The view on all sides is exceedingly fine. Immediately towards the sea are vast masses of rock, very many tons in weight ; at a short distance from the shore is a solitary mass of granite called Carrickstarne, (the Saddle Rock) ; and on the Eastern side of the Bay, a bold, rocky cliff stretching towards the main-land. Nor are the other features in the scene less calculated to draw attention. Carn Lea, the extreme point of Old Town Bay, to the West, the Bay itself with its sandy beach, the remains of the old Church and the grave-stones around it, the cluster of cottages in Old Town and the green fields, and meadows, varying the prospect and relieving the eye, will all claim some share of notice and remark. It is possible to reach Old Town by a nearly direct route, passing close to Carn Lea, but it will be necessary to force a way over rocks and rough hedges of stones. An easier course is the path which leads to the Tower, standing about two hundred yards from Pulpit Rock. This Tower was chosen by a party of the Sappers and Miners under the direction of Sergeant Steel, as the spot from which to make their trigonometrical observations. Its height above mean water was determined by them to be one hundred and forty one feet. From this tower a narrow road leads towards Huo-h Town ; by following it to the point where it meets the main road, and then turning towards Old Town, the Church-yard and remains of the old church will be reached. Only a small portion of the old Church, as before observed, is standing. It was built in the form of a cross ; though at what period is uncertain. It appears from Troutbeck's narrative to have been enlarged in 1662, by the addition. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 55 oF a North aisle ; and from a memorandum in the earliest of the parish register books, we learn " that the Southern aisle of the Church of Saint Mary's, in Scilly, was begun to be built on the sixth day of June, 1677."t The length of the church from East to West, was sixty feet, and the breadth of the nave nineteen feet ; the length from end to end of the transepts was sixty-two feet, and their braadth sixteen feet. The Church had greatly fallen into decay, partly through age, yet more through neglect, when the building of the new Church in a situation more accessible to the inhabitants of Hugh Town, was determined upon by King William IV. The bodies of Henry Trelawny, son of Sir Jonathan, the famous Bishop, Sir John Narborough, and Captain Lodes, all of whom perished with Sir Cloudesley Shovel, were buried in the chancel. The Chuich-yard is still used and is neatly kept. A monument of black marble on the outside of the East end of the Church deserves notice. It is dedicated to the memory of Frances, the wife of Joseph Hunkin, the Governor of the Islands under the Commonwealth, and bears the arms of the husband and wife. It was originally placed within the Church, and after having been shifted from its first position when the South aisle was built, was again taken down, and for some time remained in pieces in a corner. The families of both husband and wife were found on enquiry to be extinct, but " I thought it a pity " writes the gentleTroutbeck "that such an ancient monument which must have cost a considerable sum, should be concealed in such a manner, so I interceded with the late churchwardens to have it put up in the wall of the church, on the outside of the East end, where it may be seen by all curious people." A tablet to the memory of John, the son of Thomas Ekines, with the motto " non movtuus sed dormit," may interest those who have visited St. Martin's, and seen the Day-mark, the monument of Thomas Ekines' public spirit. In the t In the same register is the following entry. Scilly, November 21st, 1742. Bryhcr Chapel was dedicated to the pious memory of AD Saints, by me, Paul Hathaway, minister to the Islands of Scilly. 56 A WEEK IN SCILLY. South East corner of the church-yard close to the wall is an upright slate to the memory of Abraham Leggatt, a surgeon ; the singular position of this stone was accord- ing to tradition chosen that it might face the cottage of a maiden of Old Town, of whom Leggatt was passionately fond. Truth however compels us to add that the enamoured surgeon had a wife of his own at the time. The parsonage formerly stood next the church-yard, close to the road at the head of Old Town Bay. In this bay the conger fishery was formerly carried on to a great extent. A stone trough, now a support to a shed attached to one of the houses, was formerly used for salting fish in, and it is said that all the fish from every island, were brought hither to be cured, when stages were erected in a field adjoining, for drying them in the sun. The trough is of one stone, holds eighteen Winchester bushels, and was dug from a quarry upon Sallakee Downs, about half a mile distant. Large supplies of the fish so cured were carried up the Straits, and exported to other places. This was an extensive branch of trade, and of great advantage to the Isles, until it was superseded by the pilchard fisheries of Mount's Bay. The Eastern extremity of Old Town Bay, is called Tolmen Point. The name is derived from a rock upon it called the Tolmen, i. e. rock-table, and not holed rock as supposed by Dr. Borlase. An absurd story about monks levying toll is an ignorant invention of a late period. Near the Tolmen is a sod battery, where three guns formerly stood. Two of them were taken away about a century ago, and the third has been removed upwards of forty years. In the bay, about midway between Carn Lea and the Tolmen point, is the Gull Rock, and further South is the Gilstone. These rocks must have always made Old Town Bay dangerous, yet it is clear that Old Town was once the principal place in St. Mary's, and this the principal anchorage. The Church lay to the "West, and the Castle stood on the high ground to the North East, scarcely less A WEEK IN 9CILLY. 57 than one hundred feet above the level of the sea. Some remains of the Northern wall may still Le traced. It is impossible now to ascertain the early history of this Castle, but it is probably the same as the Castle of Ennor in Scilly, described in 1306, as held of the King by the service of finding and maintaining ten armed men to keep the peace. When Leland visited the Islands about 1540, it was in adequate repair, but upqji the building of Star Castle it became neglected, if it was not already ruined, and its walls served as a quarry to the neighbouring cottagers. At a short distance from Old Town, towards the North East, is one of the best gardens in the island. The myrtle hedges, mesembryanthemums, and other plants rarely found, except in greenhouses, on the main land, which arc growing here in great b;auty, give good proof of the advantages of climate enjoyed in the Islands, and show that floriculture may be carried to any extent, if only the hurtful effects of storm and wind can be prevented by seasonable shelter. Dr. Borlase has made the same observation. " Roots of all kinds. Pulse and Sallets grow well ; Dwarf Fruit-trees, Gooseberries, Currants, Raspberries, all Shrubs, and whatever rises not above their hedges do very well ; and even these would do better, if they would provide against storms, by planting shelters of Elder, Dutch -elm, Sycamore, and the like, in Clumps and Hedge-rows ; and 'till they can reconcile themselves to the trouble and time of raising such shelters, all their Vegetables must be exposed, in proportion to their height, to the winds ; but to tell you the truth, the true spirit of planting either has never reached here, or has been forced to give way to moiO necessary calls." Dr. Borlase, published his letter in 175G, and his remarks may have induced three inhabitants of Scilly ( J. B., S. Jf., M. C.,) to write to the Gentleman' a Magazine^ in April, 1757, to enquire what trees would grow near the sea. Jlr. Urban, recommended sycamore, sallow thorn, fir and poplars, and it is possible that the trees at Holy Vale, to be presently mentioned, owe their existence to this correspondence. 58 A WEEK. IN SCILLY. Parting, or Parton Carn, lies a little past the garden wliicli has caused this digression, and a quarter of a mile further on the right hand is Tremelethen. The gardens and orchards belonging to this farm show the produce of the island. It consists, chiefly, of a great variety of apples , and the trees at Tremelethen have the advantage of a warm aspect and good shelter. Continuing the walk along the road a view is gained of the comfortable farm at Longstone, rejoicing in the warmth of a Southern sky ; but, before reaching it, the road changes its direction and bears towards the farms at Caruifriers, so called from Carn Friars, a small heap of rocks lying near. It is possible that Cam Friars and the neighbouring Holy Vale, point to some Chapel and Cell of the Tresco foundation, but we know of no other warrant than the names for the supposition. Leaving these farms on the right, a way should be taken over a gently sloping field which lies nearly North East. At the farther corner of this field is a rough road to a farm called Normandy, towards the Eastern extremity of St. Mary's. Thence Northward, across a common and along a road, a succession of pretty views will be presented, until Maypole, the hill above Holy Vale, is reached. This hill affords one of the prettiest prospects on St. Mary's. At its foot is Holy Vale, a pleasant sheltered nook, with four good substantial farm houses. This farm for about two centuries belonged to a family of the name of Grudge, the last member of which died in November, 1848, at the advanced age of ninety-seven. The first of the family who came to Scilly was Mr. John Grudge, of Tolver, in the parish of Gulval, near Penzance, who married Ursula, second daughter of Sir Francis Godolphin, then lessee of the Islands. The pair settled in Scilly, and their descendants remained there enjoying some honour on account of their connection with the Godolphin family ; the post of Commissary of the Musters seems to have been hereditary amongst them. This central farm has a warm aspect, it looks towards a little Southern Cove, called Perth A WEEK IN SCILI.T. 59 Hellick, and is well sheltered from the North winds, as the trees growing about it show. One of the finest trees, a sycamore, is said to have been cut down, to make room for the house which now stands at right angles to the principal building. The original farm, or, more correctly, the farm which was built after the first was destroyed by fire, consisted of the two central houses. The neat gardens in Holy Vale, in which there are some choice myrtles and a fine aloe, deserve notice. The road, for a short distance, is shaded by trees^ Avhich, screened from the violence of the mnds, are of a less stunted growth than elsewhere in the Islands. As soon as their ^friendly shelter is passed, a stile upon the left hand points to a foot-path which winds in a pretty circuit towards the South. By taking this path a view of the orchards and gardens belonging to Holy Vale is obtained, and thejhigh ground above Longstone is reached. From this elevation there is a nearer view of the fresh water at Forth Hellick and of the inland scenery of St. Mary's. The path above the farm leads to the new road, nearly at the point which bears towards Tremelethen. This well-made road was planned some fifteen years since by Mr. Smith, and was executed by a sort of corvee under his direction. It is one of the benefits due to his good government, of which we shall have more to say in the chapter on the social condition of the Islands. SIXTH EXCURSION. The North Coast of St. Maky's. In our Sixth excursion we purpose to traverse the North and East coast of St. Mary's, starting from Hugh Town, and going round as far as Old Town, the limit of the fifth excursion. By this means we shall make a complete circuit of the island. The first point of interest is Carn Thomas, a bold point of land projecting about onehundred yards into St. Mary's Pool, and dividing it into two beautiful bays. The height of the topmost rock of the carn is eighty feet above the level of the sea, and the visitor who ascends it may find himself tempted to rest and lounge away a summer morning, watching the small occupations of the harbour. The little bay or cove to the East of this Carn isPermellin ; its beach is covered by a remarkably fine sand, parcels of which were sent in Heath's time as presents to Cornwall, and more distant parts of England, to be used in drying ink, and for scouring brass, pewter, &c. The sand of Permellin is, however, specially remarkable for the thin ridges of black mica, which lie in streaks over the fine quartz which forms the bulk of it ; the mica lies parallel A WEEK IX SCLLLY. 61 to the line of the advancing waves, and seems as if deposited hy successive tides : scarcely any is found below the surface. The white sand marked with these faint black lines presents a beautiful appearance, but the expla- nation of the phenomena is not very clear ; it is probable that the mica is a residuum of the decomposition of the granite of Cam Thomas, and in Mr. Game's paper in the appendix will be found an hypothesis on the subject. On the hill above Permellin to the East, called Mount Flagin, or Flagon, are the few remains of Harry's walls. Amongst the fortifications of the coast projected in the early part of the reign of Henry VIII., was a fort on this spot ; the situation was ill chosen, and either on this account, or for the more probable reason, want of money, the work was, like so many others, abandoned at an early stage. There is a curtain, with two bastions, remaining ; the latter are hollow, and project with very acute angles. The length of the whole is sixty-two yards ; the face of each bastion sixteen yards ; the walls are from ten to twelve feet thick, and about five feet high. Such was the peculiar excellence of the cement used in this work, that but few of the stones have been dislodged notwithstanding the exertions that have been made for that purpose ; and the fortress may probably remain in its present state for centuries to come. On the North side of these walls, and on the summit of the hill, is an upright stone or menhir. It is placed in a most commanding position, and stands about nine feet and a half above the ground. Proceeding along the coast we pass two islands, the more Northerly of which is called Taylor's Island, the other Newford. The former at high water appears a pretty earn rising out of the sea. Mr. Came has remarked that in the granite of Taylor's Island, the mica has been replaced by minute prisms of tourmaline, often with a perfect termination. 62 A "WEEK IN SCILLY. The Bay nearly opposite Tayloi's Island, is Porthloo^. flanked on the North East by Cam Morval. The view at this latter point is one of the finest the Islands afford, hut it is surpassed in extent by that seen from the top of Telegraph Hill. To reach this hill, the visitor must strike inland by a path across some fields covered with golden furze. From the top of the Telegxaph, which is two hundred and four feet above mean water, the principal, objects in St. Mary's, and the relative situation of the other isles, are visible. In the distance, the Eastern group, St. Martin's, Tean, Menavawr, Tresco, with the harbours of Old and New Grimsby on either side, Bryher, the two hills of Sampson, the Broad Sound, iinnet, St. Agnes, and the far stretching isles and rocks to the West : in the foreground, the farms and downs of St. Mary's. Nearly due North from the Telegraph, is Bant's Carn, and according to Troutbeck, a small village named Bant's farm was situated near it. To the South West of this earn is a barrow in very good preservation. It has three top or covering stones ; and its sides are secured by flat stones in the ordinary manner. It is about twelve feet in length, three feet six inches wide, two feet six inches in height. On the downs, to the East South East of this, there is another barrow from which the top stones have been removed. It is otherwise very complete. In the immediate neighbourhood of the Telegraph, are two or three small farms, one of which, Newford, may be specified, as the date of the plantation of the orchard attached to it is known. It was planted in 1750, by Mr. Thomas Smith, then steward to the Earl of Godolphin. About a quarter of a mile to the North West of Newford, and the same distance to the North East of the Telegraph is another menhir, called by the inhabitants the Long Rock ; it is nearly nine feet high, and ten feet round the thickest part. From the Long Rock the visitor may walk to the N orth East and reach the sea at Inisidgen Point, which is in fact the North Eastern extremity of St. Mary's. This point derives its name from the island of Inisidgen ( in. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 68 TBorlase Enys-an-geon, St. John's Island ? ) immediately •opposite to it. The earn on the point is well worthy of examination, and its proximity to the Eastern islands and St. Mary's secures a very pretty view. But that which ■makes this hill an object of especial interest is a remarkably fine barrow on nearly its highest point. It is very large . and in excellent preservation. Its dimensions are about fourteen feet in length, four feet six inches in width, and ■ three feet eight inches in height ; and it has five top or covering stones. From Inisidgeu Point the coast turns in a Southerly direc- tion to "Watermill Bay. A little stream running into this cove may s3Tve to explain its name, though the " mill " has long since disappeared. The stream is supplied by the fine spring called Lentevern Well, which seems to have been formerly known also as Carnidgen Well, the connection between which and Inisidgen is evident. A pleasant walk along 'the cliff leads to New Quay, and thence to Toll's Island, and Mount Todden. At the last named 'place is a battery called Pellew's redoubt, from the signal gun, an eighteen pounder, which Lord Exmouth placed there when in command of this station. There is a small watch-house close by, in which, during the wars of the last century, a soldier of the garrison and three islanders kept watch every night against surprise from privateers of the enemy. Leaving Mount Todden, Deep Point, the most Easterly pointof the island is soon reached. The rocks hereabout are very fine, and exhibit in great perfection the several processes of disintegration and decomposition. Normandy Gap is perhaps second only to the rocks at Peninis. Other rocks worthy of notice are the Sun Rock and the Clapper Rocks ; and Mr. Came noticed a rock about a quarter of a mile North of the Sun Rock, where a large block of granite rests upon another block, the space between the two being no more than a few inches, whilst on the surface of the lower are three regular basins, which could in no case have been ^worked out by tools. Rock basins arc found on all th« 64 A WEEK IN SCILLY. rocks in this neighbourhood, and their number and position are constantly undergoing a change. Not far from the Clapper Rocks is Dick's Cam, near which are several barrows very similar in form and dimensions to those already noticed, but all of them appear to have been opened. Continuing our perambulation we arrive at Perth Hellick, (cove of willows) on the beach of which Sir Cloudesley Shovel found a burial until his body was taken up and removed to Westminister Abbey.t We have described (p. 29, ) the circumstances of his shipwreck ; his body was carried by the tidal current to the South of the Islands and washed ashore at Forth Hellick. Former historians of Scilly have, with a ridiculous prudery, suppressed the popular belief in Scilly about the Admiral. There is no reason whatever for crediting it with a foundation in fact, but the picturesqueness of the tradition gives it a claim to be preserved. The story runs that a common sailor on board the Admiral's vessel warned the officer of the watch that their course was bearing on the rocks of Scilly, and this being reported to Sir Cloudesley incensed him against the man. The sailor was summoned aft, and persisting in his opinion was ordered to be hanged at the yard-arm for disobedience, and exciting a spirit of mutiny. He requested permission to read a psalm aloud before his execution, and the request being granted he selected the sixty-ninth, the curses of which may be remembered. Nothing daunted at the threats thus thrown at him, the Admiral hanged the man, and early the same night his vessel was shipwrecked. The tradition goes on that the Admiral escaped drowning, and was washed ashore alive though almost exhausted, and that an islander who found him, and at first was solicitous to assist him, was struck with such a covetous desire for a valuable ring worn on his finger, that for the sake of it he put him to death. Sir Cloudesley was buried on the beach, ♦ Addison, who must have known Sir Cloudesley, (he was Under- Secretary of State at the time of the shipwreck) has justly ridiculed the representation of him on the tomb in the Abbey, as a beau in a long periwig. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 6S and as a further sign of God's wrath at his injustice and violence, the grass has never since grown on the spot where he was laid. The last circumstance admits of an easy rationalistic explanation ; the sand of the beach is covered with a thin growth of grass, having little or no root, and wherever the grass is once disturbed it will not grow agnin for many years. Many of the islanders hold, however, to the supernatural refusal of the grass to grow, and the place of Sir Cloudesley's grave is still pointed out by them. To the North of Forth Hellick beach, is a large pool of fresh water, which abounds with eels, mullets, and flounders. Nearly due West of this pool, is a farm house called Sallakey, which gives their names to the fields forming the high ground towards the South. Dr.Borlase, in his "Antiquities," describes a plane of rock one hundred and seventy-two feet from North to South, and one hundred and thirty-eight from East to West, situate near Sallakey. '* We found " he writes " the back of the rock cleaved by art ( at least so it seemed to us ) of all unevenness," but those who may visit it now, will see that in little more than a hundred years the surface has become covered with small basins, drains, and shallow excavations. On Sallakey Hill are two stone crosses of the oldest and rudest construction. They are now fixed in the stone hedge : one to the East at the Northern corner of the field ; the other to the West in the middle of the wall near a gate. >i either has any inscription, nor any figure discernable, and both are of inconsiderable size. Forth Hellick is associated with an escape from shipwreck more authentic than the tale of Sir Cloudesley Shovel, and even more marvellous. The narrative which we transcribe was first printed in Mr. Courtney's "Guide to Fenzance," ( 1846 ), and as it was furnished to him by the late Richard Fearce, Esq., French Consular Agent at Penzance, there can be no doubt of its correctness. ** The brig * Nerina,' of Dunkerquc, sailed from that place on Saturday, the 31st of October, 1840, under the 66 A WEBK IN SCILLy. •command of Capt. Pierre Everabrt, with a cargo of oil and canvass for Marseilles : her burthen was about one hundred and fourteen tons ; the crew consisted of seven persons, including the captain and his nephew, a boy four- teen years old. " At three o'clock in the afternoon of Monday, the 16th of November, they were forced to heave-to in a gale of wind, at about ten or twelve leagues South West of the Scilly Islands. At seven o'clock of the same evening, still lying-to under their close reefed main-top-sail, and balanced ireefed main-sail, a heavy sea struck the vessel and she fiuddenly capsized, turning completely bottom up. " The only man on the deck at the time was named BouMELAKD, who was instantly engulfed in the ocean. In the forecastle were three seamen — Vincent, Vantaure, and Jean Marie : the two former, by seizing hold of the windlass-bits succeeded in getting up close to the keelson, and so kept their heads above water. Poor Jean Marie was not so fortunate, — he must have been in some measure entangled; as, after convulsively grasping the heel of Vantaure for a few seconds, he let go his hold and was drowned. His body was never seen afterwards. The other two, finding that the shock of the upset had started the bulkhead between the forecastle and the hold, and that the cargo itself had fallen down on the deck, contrived to draw themselves on their faces close alongside the keelson, (for it could not be called on their hands and knees for want of height ) towards the stern of the ship, from whence they thought they heard some voices. " At the time of the accident, the captain, the mate Jean GALiiO, and the boy Nicholas Nisben, were in the cabin. The captain caught the boy in his arms, under the full impression that their last moments had arrived. " The mate succeeded in wrenching open the trap-hatch in the cabin deck, and in clearing out some casks which were jammed in the lazarette ( a sort of small triangular apace between the cabin floor and the keelson, where stores A WEEK IN 8CI1.LY. 6T are generally stowed away) : having effected this, he scram- bled up into the vacant space and took the boy from the hands of the captain, whom he then assisted to follow them. " In about an hour they were joined by Vincent and Vantaure from the forecastle. There were then five individuals closely cooped together : as they sat they were obliged to bend their bodies for want of height above them, whilst the water reached as high as their waists : from which irksome position one at a time obtained some relief by stretching at full length on the barrels in the hold, squeezing himself up close to the keelson. " They were able to distinguish between day and night by the light striking from above into the sea, and being reflected up through the cabin sky-light, and then into the lazarette through the trap-hatch in the cabin floor. " The day and night of Tuesday, the 17th, and day of "Wednesday, the 18th, passed without food, without relief, and almost without hope ; but still each encouraged the others, when neither could hold out hope to himself, — endeavouring to assuage the pangs of hunger by chewing the bark stripped off from the hoops of the casks. Want of fresh air threatening them with death by suffocation, the mate worked almost incessantly for two days and one night in endeavouring, with his knife, to cut a hole through the hull. Happily the knife broke before he had succeded in accomplishing his object, the result of which must have proved fatal, as the confined air alone preserved the vessel in a sufficiently buoyant state. " In the dead of the night of Wednesday, the 18th, the vessel suddenly struck heavily : on the third blow the stem dropped so much that all hands were forced to make the best of their way, one by one, further towards the bows ; in attempting which poor Vincent was caught by the water and drowned, falling down through the cabin floor and sky-light. ** After the lapse of an hour or two, finding the water to ebb, Galxo got down into the cabin, and whilst seeking for the hatchet, which was usually kept there, was forced to 68 A WEETC IN 8CILLY. rush again for shelter to the lazarette, to avoid being drowned by the sea, which rose on him with fearful rapidity. Another hour or two of long suffering succeeded, when they were rejoiced to see by the dawning of the day of Thursday, the 19th, that the vessel was fast on rocks, one of which projected up through the sky-light. The captain then went down into the cabin, and found that the quarter of the ship was stoved ; and looking through the opening, he called out to his companions above, ' Grace a Dieu mes enfans, nous sommes sauves ! je vois un homme a terre ! ' ( Thank God, my children, we are saved ! I see a man on the beach ! ) Immediately after this the man approached and put in his hand, which the captain seized, almost as much to the terror of the poor man as to the intense delight of the captain. Several people of the neighbourhood were soon assembled ; the side of the ship was cut open, and the four poor fellows were liberated from a floating sepulchre, after an entombment of three days and three nights in the mighty deep. *' The spot where the vessel struck is called Porthellick, in the island of St. Mary's, Scilly : she must have been driven on the rocks soon after midnight, at about the period of high-water, and was discovered lying dry at about seven o'clock on Thursday morning, by a man accidentally passing along the cliffs. In another half-hour the returning tide would have sealed their fate. The body of Vincent was thrown on the rocks at a short distance from the wreck, and has been interred in the burial-ground of St. Mary's, with the usual rites of the established church. " Not the least remarkable part of the narrative is, that in the afternoon of Wednesday, the 18th, the wreck floating bottom up was fallen in with, at about a league and a half distant from the Islands, by two pilot boats, which took her in tow for about an hour ; but their tow-ropes breaking, and night approaching, with a heavy sea running and every appearance of bad weather, they abandoned her , not having the least suspicion that there were human beings alive in the hold of the vessel, which was floating with A WEEK IN SCli-LTi 6^ little more than her keel above water ! whilst, had the vessel not been so taken in tow, the set of the current would have drifted her clear oif the islands into the vast Atlantic." IT The extreme "Western horn of Forth Hellick, is Giant's Castle. On the way thither many sepulchral barrows may be noticed on the downs to the North. Borlase's descrip- tion of the castle itself is so good that it may be transcribed with advantage, though another century has not passed without its effect upon the encampment. The castles on the Cornish cliffs still remain, but we can no more explain the origin of those enclosures, then Dr. Borlase could. " The castle," he wrote, " is situated on a promontory which towards the sea is an immense crag of rocks, as if heaped on each other : this heap or turret of rocks declines also quick, but not so rough towards the land, and then spreads to join the downs, whero at the foot of this knoll it has first a ditch crossing the neck of land from sea to sea ; then a low Vallum of the same direction ; next, a second ditch and a higher Vallum ; lastly, near the top of this crag, it had a wall of stone encompassing every part, but where the natural rocks were a sufficient security ; this wall by the ruins appears to have been very high and thick. It is call'd, as I said but now, the Giant's Castle, the com- mon people in these islands as well as elsewhere, attributing all extraordinary works to giants. We have many of these Castles on the Cornish cliffs ; they seem designed by pirates and invaders to protect themselves whilst they were landing their forces, ammunition, and implements of war, and to secure a safe retreat towards their ships in case of need. I am apt therefore to think that such Cliff-Castles are as ancient as the times of the Danish, if not of the Saxon invasions." H This striking narrative was extracted from the first edition of this work by Mr. George n. Lewes, and published in his "Sea-side Studies." "iO A WEEK IN SCILLY. On the Western side of this Carn, just above the cliff, is the Logan Rock, which has the great advantage of being very accessible and easily moved. Its weight is calculated to be forty-five tons. Not far from the Logan Rock, near half-way down the hill, next the sea, is a cave among the rocks, called Tom Butt's bed, which is very dangerous and difficult to get at, the ground being so steep about it ; it is so called from a boy who concealed himself in it, three days and three nights in the reign of Queen Anne, for fear of being impressed on board a man of war. f Church Point and Ledge, is the name given to the next mass of rocks projecting into the water. The name is derived from the fact that the outer point of this ledge, when in a line with the old Church, is a mark for pilots. Blue Carn, the mass of rocks forming the cliff at this part, is usually distinguished as the Inner and the Outer Carn. The Inner is chiefly remarkable for its laminated appearance, the result of horizontal decomposition ; the Outer, more to the South East, is a very singular group of rocks piled upon each other in every variety of form. Almost immediately after Blue Carn, we pass Forth Minick with its white gravelly beach, and arrive at Old Town, whence a road already described leads to Hugh Town. + Troutbeok. HISTORY AND SOCIAL CONDITION. The Scilly Islands have usually heen identified with the Cassiterides or Tin Islands, with which the Phoenicians are said to have traded ; hut as the traces of tin in the islands are very scanty, and there is little evidence that any mines have ever heen worked in them, the identification is douht- fuL The more certain testimony of names of places, and the numerous barrows, and similar relics found in the islands warrant us in asserting that they were inhabited at an early period by the same Celtic race which occupied Britain. They fell with the mainland under the Roman dominion, and towards the end of the Roman possession, they seem to have been used as a penal settlement for heretics, if not for other offenders. When the limits of the Empire were contracted, Scilly was probably left ^vith very few inhabitants ; but there is reason to believe that it was not altogether tenantless. As the country West of the Tamar for a long time remained independent of the Saxons, the Scilly Islands may be supposed to have possessed a similar immunity, and we may believe, that the Christian religion planted there before the Romans withdrew, was preserved during the three or four centuries which elapsed, before we find them again mentioned. Soon after the arrival of the Northmen on the coast of England, these islands re-appear in history. The West Welshmen, or Celts of Cornwall, on more than one occasion, joined the new comers in their attacks on the West Saxons, and the Northmen used the islands as a station whence they issued on their excursions. A. very ancient, and credible tradition 72 A WEEK IN SCILLY. declares that the islands were subdued by Athelstau, (926-940), and that he founded, ex weciall5' at Tol Pertn Pcnwith. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 115 extends from the S. W. to the S. E., but are few and shallow in the other parts of the island. 2. Some of them appear in the sides of the rocks, just as if, after they had been formed on the top, the rocks had been over- turned : they may be thus seen near Pitt's Parlour, at Peninnis, and also at the Clapper rock. 3. In some cases, when one rock is overlaid by another, basins are formed on the lower rock : this occurs at the Clapper rock, and also near the Sun rock, but the best instance may be seen about a quarter of a mile north of the Sun rock, where a large block of granite rests on another block imbedded in the ground, the space between the two rocks being only a few inches : on the surface of the lower rock are three regular basins, which could not have been worked out by tools : the top of the upper rock has also several basins. 4. The disintegration in the basins is still proceeding : loose par- ticles of quartz and felspar are commonly found in them, and in several, there are openings in the sides or at the bottom, some of which have taken place within the recollection of persons now living. 5. On the rising ground above Perth Loggos, there is an immense flat rock, nearly level ^ath the ground, said to be 173 feet long, and 138 feet wide, of which Dr. Borlase says : — " We found the back of the rock cleaved by art ( at least as it seemed to us ) of all unevenness, and making one plane of rock." This was written about one hundred years ago : its surface is now covered with small basins, di'ains, and shallow excavations. It is not impossible that the rock basins, as well as the Logan stones and other natural monuments, might have been used by the Druids for superstitious purposes, but the facts already stated are sufficient to prove that they have not been formed by art, but by disintegration, caused by the alternate action of the elements on rocks peculiarly favorable to their operation, either from a mixture of iron or some other extraneous substance in their composition, or 116 A WEEK IN SCILLY. from the peculiar arrangement of the crystals of the different constituent parts. In those parts of the coast which are exposed to the pre- vailinjj winds and the lash of the waves, the rocks are weathered into the most singular and fantastic forms, as at Peninnis, and the Clapper rocks in St. Mary's, the Nag's head in St. Agnes, &c. In the latter island, some of the rocks resemble gigantic petrified mushrooms. Decom- position is also often visible on the flat surface of the rocks, as at the Lizard point in Tresco. The existence of white clay in Holy Vale moor, and in the moors between Forth Mellin and Old Town, is also an indication of it below the surface. III. Regenerated or Secondary Granite. There are many instances in the islands in which, at first sight, it appears doubtful whether the granite is in the process of disintegration, or whether the constituent parts which had been previously separated by disintegration, have become re-united ( by what agency it is difficult to say ) before they were completely decomposed. This kind may be found on Rat island, and at Piper's hole in St. Mary's ; at Piper's hole in Tresco ; and in numerous other localities. The principal reason for supposing it to be regenerated granite is that, in both the caverns alluded to, of which it forms the whole or the principal part of the roof, it contains bowlders, or rounded masses of perfect granite, — some of them pretty large : it is not easy to suppose that those could have been enclosed in original granite. Unless these bowlders may be supposed to be the remains of ancient beaches, I have not observed on the islands any of those remains : it is not improbable, however, that they may be visible in the roofs of other caverns which I have not examined. IV. Varieties of Granite. The granite of Scilly is not always confined to the usual constituent parts of quartz, felspar, and mica : shorl is a A WEEK IN SCILIiY. 117 Yery common ingredient, sometimes accompanying the mica ( Lizard point, Tresco ), and sometimes replacing it ( Old Town porth ) : homeblende is a more rare one ( Old Town porth ), and chlorite still rarer. In some parts it is por- phyritic ( Watermill bay ) ; but in general that term is not applicable to it : the felspar is sometimes of a deep red colour ( Old Town porth, — Porth Munich, — the Cow rock.) Tn one locality ( Lizard point, Tresco ), the mica of the granite is in its primitive crystal, a sold rhomboid being formed by the accumulation of rhomboidal tables : in other parts the mica is in hexagonal tables, often forming prisms by their accumulation ( Peninnis ) : on Taylor's island, the mica is replaced by minute prisms of tourmaline, often with a perfect termination. Binary granite, composed of only two of the usual ingredients, occurs at Porth Hellick, both as quartz and felspar, and as quartz and mica. The granite of Scilly is, in general, of a rather course quality, and from its colour, iron appears to be frequently associated with it. No doubt there is excellent granite in several of the islands, but it is often so mixed up with what is inferior, that there is little hope of its being extensively quarried for exportation : it is possible, however, that the compact granite may run in courses or ranges through the coarser or softer kinds : this might be discovered without much difficulty by following it so far as to ascertain its direction, and examining the granite in different parts in that direction. There is very compact granite at Peninnis, but close to it there is some of a very different kind. The best, I think, may be found in some of the western islets* particularly in Rosevear, of which a specimen may be seen in the habitations of the St. Agnes lighthouse men : that of the Bishop,— the most western rock of the whole group, — is also very compact, although a little discoloured. V. Veins in the Granite. These are of -various kinds. Sir H. De La Beche has 118 A WEEK IN SCILLY. remarked that granite veins in the granite are not unfrequent in St. Mary's, St. Martin's, Tresco, Brehar, and St. Agnes : some of these, however, owe their vein-like appearance to an accumulation of parallel joints, and the decomposition of the granite on each side of them. The granite of the veins is almost always much finer than that of the mass. The red granite is generally found in veins ( Old Town and Brehar. ) I helieve them to be all con- temporaneous, or as nearly so as possible. Veins of pure white quartz, — sometimes of a considerable size, — often intersect the granite : in one of these, at Pen- innis head, I found a small bunch of rose-coloured quartz : in another vein, between St. Mary's pier and Eat island ( now covered by the new pier ), chalcedony has been found. At Watermill bay, in St. Mary's, the pebbles on the beach indicate the contiguity of porphyry and porphyritic granite ; and on the south side of it, between the rivulet and the curious little quay called Newquay, there is what has been called by some an elvan course, and by others a mass of decidedly stratified granite : it is of considerable length : it rises above the granite that joins it on each side, and seems to lie in thick strata, which are subdivided into smaller strata, dipping at a large angle about N.N. W. : it is decided porphyry, with small crystals of quartz and felspar : the adjoining granite has also the same stratified appearance. The question is, whether the lines of division of the apparent strata are joints, or whether the whole has a slaty structure : the former appears to me the most probable. This spot must be visited at low water, or the most interesting part will be covered by the sea. Of metalliferous veins or lodes, there are some in three or four of the islands, but none which any competent miner would suppose had ever yielded any considerable quantity of tin. Several years ago, in digging for a foundation for the store-keeper's house within the lines of the Garrison- hill, a lode was discovered which produced some tin very A WEEK IN SCILLY. 119 near the surface, but the quantity, and the lode itself, being very small, it attracted no further attention. In the small uninhabited island of Norwethel, some lodes are visible in the cliifs, and efforts have been frequently made to explore them, but unsuccessfully. In Tresco there are some lodes, on one of which, near Piper's hole, are the only remains of former works now existing in any of the islands : these, however, give no indication of extensive or important operations. Piper's hole has been called an adit for drain- ing the mines, but it is far too irregular to admit such a •upposition. Piper's hole, in St. Mary's, is more regular, and may possibly have been used for that purpose. As 80 much has been already said and written on the question whether the tin of ancient times was the product of the Scilly islands, I will add only two remarks to those which I have elsewhere made on that subject. 1. Dr. Borlase supposes that a great subsidence of the land has taken place, by which almost all the marks and relics of ancient mining have been submerged ; but this is not only gratuitous, but inconsistent with another conjecture of his, — that Piper's hole, iu Tresco, was the adit of the ancient tin work there : if it were so, it is evident that no subsidence of the land can have taken place since. 2. There are two tracts of low land in St. Mary's : one, extending from Perth Mellin to Old Town ; the other, from Holy Vale to Forth Hellick. In Tresco also there is a low tract from New Grimsby, by the Abbey ponds, to the south-east side of the island. Now, if any mines here had ever been productive of tin, some traces of diluvial tin would, even in modern days, be found in these low grounds ; but in neither of them has any tin-ore ever been discovered, as far as can be known from the testimony of the living, or the records of the past ; neither has any tin- ore ever been found pulverized amongst the sands of the sea shore, as it frequently is in the mining parts of Cornwall which border on the sea ; I see no reason, there- 120 A -WEEK IN SCILLV. fore, to alter the opinion expressed elsewhere,* that the tin of the Cassiterides could not have been the product of the Scilly islands, but was probably that of the nearest land — St. Just, which, being visible from Scilly, might easily have been taken for a large island, and included in the group to which was given the name of the Cassiterides. VI. The Sands of the Islands. These are more diversified than might be expected in such a small tract. Those which are found on the southern coasts are generally coarse and gravelly, as at Forth Hellick, Old Town porth, and Porth Cressa, whilst those on the northern shores are usually very fine, as at Porth Mellin and the Pool. The sand of Porth Mellin is the most interesting of the whole : here, at low water, on the surface of the beach, which is composed of almost impal- pable particles of quartz, — so fine as to be generally used for scouring household utensils, — may be seen ridges of black mica : they are not always in the same situation, but are moved about by the tide : there is very little mica, and that in the minutest particles, below the surface of the sand. The granite of Carn Thomas, which adjoins this porth on the west, contains black mica, and at the foot of the carn the granite appears to be decomposing : this, however, will not account for so much being found on the beach at Porth Mellin, while in many other coves, where the granite around them is similarly composed, scarcely any mica can be seen on the sands : it is difficult to conjecture how, after the dissolution of the felspar and the minute reduc- tion of the quartz, the mica should have remained, in larger particles, on the surface : is it possible that a gentle current may convey it there from some other part i> East- ward, the sand of the Bar is quartzose, but less fine, with a very small admixture of shell : in the sand of Pellestry bay alone is there a mixture of comminuted shells sufficient to make it very useful for manure : other sands are • Cornwall Geol. Trans., Vol. 2, page 357. A WEEK IN SCILLY. 121 frequently used for that purpose, but their principal virtue is probably that of loosening close or clayey soils. On the southern side of Tresco, the sand consists almost entirely of large particles of pure white quartz, which might probably be used in the manufacture of porcelain, instead of pounded flint ; but I am not aware that it has been tried. It will be observed that in this communication I have said nothing of St. Martin's island, or of the eastern islands, and little of Brehar, or Samson. In truth, I had not sufficient time to examine them : they must be left for another " week's visit to the islands." KOWK, PRINTBK, BOOKSELLEK, &C., PENZANCE. J hi THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara HIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW. ^'^.Afy m 3 1205 00172 0059 A^f " Tr^anrr' •.A^h^i^ :'^V?' t^^rs c^^f>^^'^^m9^:c^mc^c^ WrH UC SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY .A^^B, >^7i:6kAi^^^^^"A AA 000 240 473 9 mSESESM ^l^^f^^f^f^^^^^/^f^^^^^^C^^^, md 'm^ iAA'^Wo'^' ■M^^^"^^ ^^o.^w^^'-- •y^:A" 1^ ■/V' ^;^'^^^'^^^'^^,;s^^^!^'i