UC-NRLF $B MDb 2"]^ LIBR^RV OF THE University of California. fnJ.>'iC UlKeeiUn.. MtWrAsy^oc ^Accession oZZoO Class \ .(>^ y-^' " ^rrl^^ologual institute of ^mmca- AMERICAN SCHOOL OF CLASSICAL STUDIES AT ATHENS. PRELIMINARY REPORT OF AN Arch^ological Journey ASIA MINOR DURING THE SUMMER OF 1884, By J. R. S. STERRETT, Ph.D. BOSTON: CUPPLES, UPHAM, AND CO. 1885. PRELIMINARY REPORT ARCHAEOLOGICAL JOURNEY MADE THROUGH ASIA MINOR DURING THE SUMMER OF 1884, J. R. S. STERRETT. Aj.H q\i k^^ v^^ INTRODUCTORY NOTE. This Preliminary Report of Dr. Sterrett's journey in Asia Minor in 1884 will form a part of the Second Volume of Papers of THE American School of Classical Studies at Athens, which will be published, it is hoped, in the summer or avitumn of 1885. It is now issued separately, in the hope that the collection of inscriptions, among which are those of forty-two Roman milestones found in Cappadocia, will be of value to all who are interested in the geography of Asia Minor. Dr. Sterrett announces his intention of presenting these inscriptions hereafter in cursive text, with historical and explanatory notes (see page 20). Dr. Sterrett was a student of the American School at Athens during its first year, 1 882-1 883, and he kindly returned to it the next year to assist Professor Packard. This journey in Asia Minor was aided by the contributions of several gentlemen in Boston and Cambridge. This publication precedes by a few weeks the First Volume of Papers of the School. William W. Goodwin, ) ^ ,. y Editors. Thomas W. Ludlow, ) January, 1885. 92293 To THE Managing Committee of the American School OF Classical Studies at Athens. Athens, Oct. 15, 1884. During the few days that remain to me before my departure on the Wolfe expedition to the Tigris- Euphrates valley, it is possible to lay before you only a brief outline of the results of my journey through Asia Minor during the past summer. In this outHne I shall call your attention to important facts alone, leaving untouched many things well worthy of notice. Early last spring I laid before you an agreement between Mr. W. M. Ramsay of Exeter College, Oxford, and myself, concerning a joint journey to be made in Asia Minor. We agreed to work in concert through a given district for three or four weeks, after which we were to separate and carry on our summer's work independently. In pur- suance of this agreement we met in Smyrna, May 15, 1884, where I provided myself with the outfit which would be necessary for my own journey after our final separation. I then went to Aidin Giuzel Hissar, the ancient Tralleis, to buy horses and make other final arrangements. For the present I had need of only four horses : one for myself, two for my two personal attendants, and one baggage horse, which, besides its burden, had to carry the cook. These were easily procured. Mr. Ramsay being necessarily delayed in Smyrna, I undertook an excursion in the direction of Nazli, and found near Kiosk a frag- mentary letter of one of the later kings, insignificant in itself, but of value in so far as it locates approximately 'Upa Kw/xr;, which has here- tofore been placed on the west of Tralleis. PRELIMINARY REPORT OF No. 1. \U_.._lU\/vl_ O^TOYENTHIEPAKQi . ii AQKENAEIQMAAIOYEAE I I^ONIEPA^KOMH^KATOI'^'^'' lAP^MENAT^ATTOAAQNI ^TA^TOfGEO^GEPATTEiAi- l^ATTAPXH^EIXENEFQAE TTOTONTTPOEMOYBA^I ^^lEiNTEKAITATONGE THN TEKAIQ^ETiMHOHAIATA'-- THNTTATPIONBAMAEIANKAi TO^TETAYTTOT ^KHTTTPONEXOYIHIKo ^NT-AEINKA0^A Our final start was made fi"om Kuyndjak by way of Antiochia to Aphrodisias. Antiochia has disappeared entirely, and from the vil- lages of this region we collected only a few insignificant inscriptions. The ruins of Aphrodisias are, on the contrary, very extensive. A vast number of inscriptions from this place are already known ; and, in our best judgment, we should have required at least a fortnight to work our way through the wilderness of ruins and sift the new from the old, the known from the unknown. Accordingly, as time was pressing, we reluctantly postponed a minute investigation of Aphro- disias until a more convenient season. But, even after this hurried visit, I venture to express my belief that systematic excavations on this site would yield ample returns for the outlay. From Aphrodisias Mr. Ramsay went around Baba Dagh to the north, by way of Denizli, and I to the south. On Kiepert's large map of Asia Minor (1852-55) it will be found that the old site at Makuf is claimed for Trapezopolis ; but at Makuf, besides numerous other inscriptions, I found one which shows that in future maps Heraclea must be inserted here instead of Trapezopolis. No. 2. HOHKHHrOPACOHYTTOTITOYCTATIAiv MHTIOXGYeNHTeOHCeTeAYTOCKAIHrYNf AYTOYAYPHAIAMGAITINHAIGNYCIGYK ONANAYTOITTEPIONTGCBOYAHGuJCINeTC PuJAeOYAeNiezeCTAIGNGAYGTINAGIT. JOURNEY ASIA )eN0AYAITINATTOTICeiTujKYPIAKu ICKuJ^4>KAITHB0YAHTHHPAKAeuJ^ TuJN^KeOYAeNHTTONOeNTAOO m leTAT^P.G H -^^^^^^^^^ The Stadion at Heraclea is still very distinct. The Acropolis is a low hill of great extent on the top. The walls of the Acropolis are easily followed around the whole circuit. In some places they are level with the ground, while in others they are still erect. The walls have once been destroyed and afterwards rebuilt, as is clear from the architectural fragments and even inscribed stones which are built into the present wall. But that the foundations at least are chiefly antique is shown by the fact that on the outside the wall is provided with finely executed stone shoots at the bottom to carry the water off. Still, at one place, where the wall is now used as a quarry by the villagers of Makuf, I discovered an honorary inscription in the very foundation. The walls were evidently rebuilt in time of great and pressing need, when the anxious citizens made use of anything in the shape of stone that came in their way. From Heraclea I zigzagged to the south-east and south through the plain now known as Davas Ovassi, and made a good survey of the district. I visited Tabae, now Davas ; but found no inscriptions, and but few traces of a past other than Turkish. Tabae is situated on a high hill in a gorge between two mountains, and is surrounded by caiions three or four hundred feet deep on all sides except one. On this one side it is approached by a bridge which crosses a chasm where it is least deep ; after the bridge is crossed a narrow neck of land, just wide enough for a roomy road,- leads by a tortuous and laborious ascent to the town on the hill. When seen from any point in the plain it seems to be situated on a neck or saddle of the moun- tains ; and one is extremely surprised at the real topography of the place. The plain of Tabae is one of extraordinary fertility ; in antiquity it supported three cities, Heraclea, Tabae, and a third at Medet, the name of which is as yet unknown to me. But that it was a town of O PRELIMINARY REPORT OF considerable wealth is clear from a very substantial antique substruc- ture in huge hewn stones of blue limestone. Upon these foundations there now stands the Mosque, which has without doubt superseded a prouder structure in honor of a pagan god. The adjoining hill, which certainly served as the Acropolis, contains no traces of anti- quity, except the many architectural fragments of great weight and size which are found in the cemetery. x\t Medet, besides the ruins just mentioned, I found honorary inscriptions, which unfortunately do not give the name of the town. From Medet I crossed over the mountains to Kizildje, where I found an inscription which settles the site of Sebastopolis. The in- scription is given as it stands ; and all errors must be laid at the door of the stone-cutter. No. 3. AYTOKPATOPINEPBATPAIANQ APICTQKAICAPICEBACTQrEPMANI KQAAKIKQTTAP0IKQ KAITQAHMQTQ^EBA^TOTTO AEITQN . IT . ETATIOEEPMACArO PAN0MHEAEKAITTAPAcl>YAA2A^ KAITEIMHOEI^ETITEYTTEP TH^^TPQ^EQ^TH^E22E APAETH^ENTQTETPA^TY AQTOYrYMNA^IOYTEIMAI^ EIPHNAPXIKAI^TTAAINAEY TTEPANA^TA^EQ^TH^NEI \H^EKTQNIAIQNTEIMH0EI^ TEIMAI^AIANYKTO^^TPATH riKAI^KAIATTOAOXEY^rZ NAMENO^rXMA^KAIAPTY POTAMIA^^AKAOQ^KAI AIATQNYH4>I^MATQN TTEPIEXEI The ruins of Sebastopolis are in full view from Kizildje, about half an hour to the east. I had sent my cook in advance to Kizildje ; but on my arrival there I found that he had gone to Kizildje Beylik, near Makuf ; so, to my intense disgust, I had to leave Sebastopolis JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. / unvisited and go in search of the erring cook. Accordingly I re- traced my steps, leaving Medet on my left. From Kizildje Beylik the river Harpasiis was traced to its source, the watershed being found to be east of Tekeh. According to appointment, I had a conference with Mr. Ramsay at Kizil Hissar. He then took the plain of Karayuk Bazar, while I passed by Yataghan to Kayahissar, and thence through a number of villages (not on the map) to Giineh ; thence to Eriza, the site of which is between Dodru Agha and Yazir. Here some interesting inscriptions were found. Hence I proceeded via Gumaoshar to Tchamkieui in the plain of Cibyra, where I again met Mr. Ramsay. Although we were so near, we decided not to visit Cibyra, knowing that it had been explored in 1877 by Messrs. Duchesne and Collignon, then of the French School at Athens. From Tchamkieui I returned northward to Derekieui. Half an hour to the north of Derekieui in the plain are foundations, possibly of a temple. On the top of the mountain immediately east of Derekieui the villagers report a kale and inscriptions. In the valley south-east of Derekieui are the ruins of an ancient town of some size, but no inscriptions. Hence I crossed the rugged and in places almost impassable Eshler Dagh to Karamanli. In this neighborhood, which contains the flourishing villages of Karamanli, Hedja, Sazak, and Tefeny, I spent three or four days copying inscriptions, which will be the subject of a special paper. At Tefeny, where I again met Mr. Ramsay, some new inscriptions were found, one of which is very enigmatical, but is too long to be given here. At Kaldjik, one hour east of Karamanli, Mr. Ramsay and I separated finally. My road led north-eastward down the valley of the Gebren Tchai, a district blank on the map, but containing a number of villages. About two hours east of the village of Einesh is the site of an ancient town, now wholly deserted. The remains are not unworthy of notice. Among other things may be mentioned the tombs, most of which are circular buildings of stones hewn into a circular shape, with massive stone foundations. This may possibly be the site of Themisonium. Buldur and Baris, now Isparta, were visited ; then Seleucia Sidera, now Egerdir, at the southern end of the lake which bears its name. At Egerdir I was shown two old Byzantine steelyards. The four sides of the bronze beams were all different, each side being appar- 8 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF ently intended for a different standard of weight. The great inter- vals corresponding to our one, two, three, etc., pound notches, were marked by letters of the Greek alphabet. The heavy weight was a head of Zeus in bronze, filled with lead. The owner demanded thirty pounds for the two, which put them out of my reach. I was anxious to get at least an accurate drawing or copy of the weight- slots or notches ; but the suspicious Turk feared that the value of his property would thereby be diminished, and refused to allow me to make any notes or take any drawings whatever. A glance at Kiepert's great map of Asia Minor (1852-55) will show that the water from the little Godeh Gol is made to flow northward and empty into the Egerdir Gol. This is copied in the French map pub- hshed by Kiepert in 1884. The reverse of this is true, as was pointed out by Hamilton nearly fifty years ago.* The outlet of the Egerdir lake is to be found forty minutes south-east of Egerdir ; it is a strong, deep, and very rapid stream, spanned by a bridge just at its exit from the lake. I made inquiries again and again concerning the course of the river, and found the natives unanimous in the statement that the water goes southward to Adalia. They did not tell me, however, as they did Hamilton, that the water from the Godeh Gol finds an underground exit. I am decidedly of the opinion that the Egerdir lake is the real source of the river Cestrus ; but this point will have to be decided definitely on a future journey, and I regret that it was out of my power to trace th^ matter up at once. The scenery of the Egerdir lake is among the most picturesque and beautiful I rec- ollect to have seen in Asia Minor. Rugged, jagged, threatening mountains, many with snow-capped peaks, spring up almost perpen- dicularly from the lake on all sides. From Egerdir the road goes around the lake to the south, over a path which is still frightful, notwithstanding recent attempts to make it passable. But after the so-called Iron Gate (Demir Kapu) is passed, the road is level as far as Gelendus (no ruins !), whence I went by zigzags to Antiochia Pisidiae. Besides the interest attaching to Antiochia of Pisidia as the scene of some of the labors of the Apostles Paul and Barnabas, it is very rich epigraphically. I copied very many inscriptions here, more than half of which are in Latin, * Hamilton, .-Isia A/inor, I. p. 482. JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 9 testifying to a very large and wealthy Roman colony. Although there can be.no doubt in regard to the site of Antiochia, still docu- mentary evidence is by no means abundant, and the follo^^ing official document may not be out of place here : No. 4. AYPAIONYCI ONTONAZIO AOrQTATO N G K ATO NTAPXO N pe reQN APiON H A A MTT P ATQ NAN TIOXGQNMHTPO TTOA I ceire i k i ac TeKAiTHeeiPH NHCGNGKA* A few of my inscriptions from Antiochia are already known, but the majority are new. The inscriptions copied up to this point number one hundred and fifty. The ruins, both on the Acropolis of Antiochia and elsewhere in the neighborhood, are very considerable and impressive ; but, as they have been described by Arundell and Hamilton, I need not delay longer over them. The road (six hours) from Antiochia to Philomelium, now Ak Sheher, leads across the Sultan Dagh by what, in the absence of ac- curate information, has hitherto been thought to be a pass. But it is a pass only in so far as deep gorges lead up to the great backbone of the mountain on either side. The mountain sends off ridges without number at right angles to -the mountain chain, and any two opposite gorges may be called a pass with as much propriety as the one through which the road from Antiochia to Philomelium leads. There are some high peaks in Sultan Dagh at the north ; but the point at which the road crosses is quite as high as any other in the mountain, and both ascent and descent are very tortuous and laborious. The road reaches the great plain of Philomelium one hour north-west of that city, and consequently does not descend the gorge at the mouth * The chisel of the engraver will make small slips sometimes ! lO PRELIMINARY REPORT OF of which Philomelium lies, as it appears to do on Kiepert's map. But few remains of Greek antiquity are to be found at Philomelium ; but on the other hand the traveller is surprised by some Seldjuk ruins of exquisite beauty. The accurate workmanship displayed, even in the execution of details, will compare favorably with Greek buildings of a good period. At Philomelium I was joined, as had been previously arranged, by my friend, Mr. J. H. Haynes, of Robert College, Constantinople, who accompanied me as photographer during the rest of the journey. Thanks to his art, we have photographs of the Seldjuk ruins of Philomelium. My travelling-outfit had been left at Smyrna, so that I had had a hard journey thus far. Mr. Haynes's advent was there- fore hailed with delight ; for henceforward we could have substantial food, on which depends in great measure the success of an expedi- tion like this. Four more horses were bought here, one for Mr. Haynes, and three for the photographic plates and other baggage. From Philomelium my route lay along the foot of Sultan Dagh in a south-easterly direction to Doghan Hissar. This region is very populous, and what is a blank mountainous space on the map is in reality a plain full of prosperous villages. These villages, as Doghan Hissar is approached, have numerous inscriptions, mostly late. At Kara Agha I copied one which proves that Hadrianopolis Phrygiae was somewhere in this neighborhood. No. 5. AYPHAGIOCZUJ T I K OCTT A Y AG I N OY AA^^NOTTOAG ITH CTH|CY N Bl WAY P H ^P \ A A r A Y K Y T A THMNHMHCXAPIN In point of fact, Mr. Haynes, who had taken a different route from myself, found ruins at Reghiz, but especially at Kotchash, one and a half hours north-east of Doghan Hissar. These ruins are late and the inscriptions are Byzantine ; but still Kotchash is probably the site of Hadrianopolis. Doghan Hissar is a modern town, without any antique remains. From Doghan Hissar our road lay westward, in JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. II the direction of Kara Agatsh, it being my object to investigate the pass of Sultan Dagh, in the hope of finding an ancient town (possibly Pappa). The road enters the mountains from Kara Agha; the ascent is gentle but steady. The descent on the west side of the mountain is sharper and more precipitous. The pass is low, and no trace of a town was found. It will be noticed that the west side of Sultan Dagh is a blank on the map ; but the district is densely popu- lated. In a fertile valley about an hour east of Kara Agatsh there is a cluster of seven large and prosperous villages. The whole com- munity goes by the name of Tchariik Serai ; but each of the seven villages has its own distinctive name, and each of these names has the ending mahalli (instead of kieui), e.g., Tchikourmahalli, Uluma- halli, Sugharmahalli, Beliikmahalli. As a case parallel to this may be cited Yalowadj, which is composed of five villages in a cluster, each with the above ending. Tchariik Serai is certainly the site of an old town ; possibly Pappa (or Amblada) must be placed here, but no documentary proof exists at present. That Phrygian was the language of the aborigines is clear from the following Phrygian epitaph : No. 6. lOCNICEMONKNOYMA NEKAKONAAK ETAI N I M AN K ATI ETITTETI KM ENOE EITOY Another Phrygian fragment, from the Mosque of Aiplar (one hour south of Kara Agatsh) , may be inserted here. No. 7. lOCKeCGMONTOKAKONOZ. In the summer of 1883, Mr. Ramsay and I found several Phrygian inscriptions in the plain east of Sultan Dagh, at Arkiit Khan and Ilgiin ; but, so far as I know, these are the only ones known on the west side of the mountain. From Tchariik Serai we returned to Antiochia, visiting the many villages, copying inscriptions, and making route surveys. At Managha, 12 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF about four hours south-east of Antiochia, I found the fifth mil- harium from Antiochia. It has therefore been transported about seven miles from its original place. The stone is badly defaced on both sides. No. 8. Fii'st Side. D D N N FLCON STANTINOMAX VV.\ V L C N S f A N f I E T CLCONSTANT \WMM^. V I C T R I T ^ i::; M P A V G G ABANTIOCHI AT^^^/^^^ PONTIF-MAX-TRIB POTX I I I COS i I I p. P M P U No. 9. Second Side. IMPCMAVRVA M A X I M I A N Fl N V I CT A V SON FP .^^^v^AESAR [ Uncut spaceT^ U M PC A M A C A P ET I M P C N E V I M R V A M A X I M I N R E AVG \ JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. I3 I regret that I could not spend more time in this district. It did not fall within the hmits of my original plan, and my visit was necessarily a hasty one. There are several points that will need in- vestigation on a future journey. For instance, at Karakuyn, a kale in the mountains two hours south-east of Antiochia, extensive ruins and inscriptions were reported to me by the people of Yalowadj. Karakuyn is almost certainly Oroanda or Misthia. In this connection may be cited an inscription which throws a valuable side light on the geography of Pappa and Oroanda. The inscription was found at Hissar, half an hour east of Antiochia. No. 10. TY X H N e Y M e N H T H K OA Ul N e I AT I Be P I TT A e I T UJ N IT A TT HNUUNOPGNAG UJNBOYAHAHMOC The KGAUJNeiATIBePIGTrOAeiTUJN is Antiochia. Ruins and inscriptions were also reported at Bachtiar, four or five hours south of Antiochia, at the foot of Sorkundja Dagh. In this region Neapolis must be looked for. From Antiochia we returned to Kara Agatsh, a large town situated in the centre of a very fertile plain. Anabura, a town mentioned by Livy in his account of the march of the consul Cn. Manlius, has always been placed far north of Kara Agatsh and Antiochia, and, as I think, correctly. At Kara Agatsh I found the following in- scription : No. 11. B P I M I A N OC K A I M ^ CA I OCO I ICY A I OYTOTT P 5 OrONIKON e P TACTH P I 14 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF N K ATA r A I N YTTOB A L N TG CTAC 10 TTAPACTAAA CKAITHNOP 0<1> H N K A I TO HNUMGNON A YTWCYCTP 15 LUMATTOALUN {iincuq C Y C T P UJ CA N TG C K A I TA AO ITTATTA NTAKOCMHCA 20 NTGCAYTOY e KTUIN lAI UN A N A BOYPe YC I N eiTO I H CA N e 26 A PA N N TG 25 CATTOrONOIMA ^JOYOYPAMMOOY For the present I call attention only to lines 22 and 23. Besides this inscription, I was informed that ruins and inscriptions were to be found at a place called Enevre, said to be from two to four hours south-east of Kara Agatsh. " Enevre " is almost certainly a corrup- tion of " Anabura," and the inscription and the name of the village seem to point to the fact that at least an Anabura once existed in this neighborhood. But it is certain that it is not the place touched by the consul Manlius. It is not uncommon, either in Asia Minor or Greece, to find two towns or rivers bearing the same name. Hence our route led south-east towards Carallia, whose name is still preserved in the Turkish Kiirili. It must be noted, however, that the old town of Caralha lay an hour north-east of Kiirili. The Acro- polis is still easily identified, and architectural fragments are found in a cemetery near a large spring north-east of the Acropolis. The inscriptions of Carallia are all Christian. Our next point was Elflatoun Bounar, which we visited to photo- graph the sculptures mentioned by Hamilton. These sculptures, JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 1 5 being known only by hearsay, will be welcomed by archaeologists. The very ancient structure bearing the sculptures is just on the edge of an immense spring ; in fact the whole region abounds in large springs of delicious cold water. The water from the great valley of Afium Kara Hissar, Ak Sheher, and Ladik has no visible outlet, and must find an underground exit. No doubt part of it flows out in these springs, and part by the many great springs at Tchifteler, Orcistus, Amorium, Abrostola, etc., in the woodless country north-east of the valley. Hence we went to Selki, the Serki Serai of Kiepert's map, which places it much too far to the north. The region north-west of Selki is full of villages, which lie along the foot of Sultan Dagh. At one of these villages a large spring of hot water is reported, which is said to be a popular resort of the Turks of this region. From Selki the road passes through a wild mountainous district, infested by brigands, to Kizil Oren. About half an hour west of Kizil Oren there still stand a Seldjuk khan and mosque in a fair state of preservation, but the remains of a remoter antiquity are all Christian. Iconium is eight hours distant from Kizil Oren ; the road is unin- habited and monotonous. About two hours from Kizil Oren there is a Seldjuk khan, not well preserved. A second khan is five hours distant, at the junction of our road with the road from Iconium to Philomelium. At Iconium I found quite a number of inscriptions, most of which are late and of little value. The people of this eastern country seem to have had little interest in the affairs of this world, and spent their surplus energy in preparing tombs and epitaphs for themselves. When Leake passed through Iconium, the walls of the town were full of inscriptions, which he had no time to copy. After the destruction of Iconium by Mehemet Ali of Egypt, these walls were used as quarries for the buildings of the modern city of Koniah. The inscriptions mentioned by Leake all perished in this way before an epigraphist was found to copy them. But many inscriptions are no doubt still in the walls with the inscribed side hidden from view. Part of the wall had been thrown down only a short time previous to our visit, and I copied several inscriptions brought to light in this way. The walls were built in the common Greek fashion (Thuc. I. 93) ; that is, two walls were built at a fixed distance apart, and the space between l6 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF them was filled with earth and stone debris. At Iconium the filling consisted mostly of simple clay or mud, which took faithful impressions of the stones composing the outer shell of the wall, so that one may now see therein neat reliefs of inscriptions, Phrygian doors, and architectural fragments. The ruins of the buildings erected by the early Seldjuk Sultans of Iconium, from Aladdin down, are, for the most part, of exquisite beauty. Mr. Haynes spent two days in photographing them ; and as very few travellers go to Iconium, these photographs will no doubt be acceptable to many. The Governor of the Vilayet of Koniah, Sahib Pasha, who studied in England and speaks English fluently, showed us kind attentions in more ways than one. He is collecting the most important antiquities of the district, as they come to light, for the Museum in Constanti- nople, and his collection is not without interest. Among other things may be mentioned a frieze in very high relief. Unfortunately we were unable to get photographs of the collection. The road from Iconium to Archelais, now Ak Serai, crosses the desert region. The first station is ObrukH, the ancient Savatra, at a distance of fourteen hours. We found no water on this journey. The plain is absolutely level, and the thirsty traveller is mocked on all sides by the Fata Morgana, promising water near at hand ; but the promised water recedes continually, and finally turns out to be noth- ing but a deceptive mirage. At Obrukli there is a little lake, the surface of which is about ninety feet below the surrounding country. The villagers use this water for household purposes. We were told that the water is drinkable at all seasons of the year, except for two weeks in December, when it is in a state of violent ebullition. When this season approaches, they lay in a sufficient supply of water to last until the lake has resumed its wonted calm. How true this may be, or what causes the phenomenon, I am not prepared to say. Sultan Khan, the next station, is the grandest and most beautiful of all the remains of Seldjuk splendor seen by us in Asia Minor. We spent one day in its welcome shade, during which time numerous photographs were taken, and the huge building was roughly measured. One of the Arabic inscriptions states that it was built a.d. 1277. A very large spring rises qui^e near to Sultan Khan, and the land yields abundant harvests wherever it can be properly irrigated. Indeed, this is true everywhere in Asia Minor. JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 1/ Archelais is a sleepy, uninteresting town, with but few traces of the Graeco-Roman civiHzation ; but the foot-prints of the Seldjuks are abundant. At Selme, three and a half hours east of Archelais, we found numer- ous dwelHngs cut in the rock, similar to those described by the early travellers at Soghanli Deressi and Udjessar. In fact, we found these wherever the soft volcanic tufa appears (Hamilton, I. 97). Selme is situated in a deep gorge through which the Irmak flows, and in which, in fact, it has its source. The cliff to the east rises perpendicularly from three to four hundred feet ; at its base there is a maze of sharp natural cones, similar to those at Udjessar. Most of these cones are hollowed out, often with several stories, for human dwellings, and are used as such now, as in ancient times. The whole cliff is honey- combed into dwellings, chambers, chapels, passages, and tombs ; story rises upon story. Even now, people live and die in these rock-cut dwellings, at least two hundred feet high on the cliff. There is no earthly reason why they should live there, as the country is safe and land is abundant ; but they do not seem to object to the dark winding stairs and passages. Across the Irmak, five minutes south of Selme, is the village of Ichlara, the cliff behind which is also similarly honeycombed ; several fagades of temples are conspicuous on the side of the cliff. A short distance east of Ichlara the Irmak gushes out at the foot of the cliffs, a full-grown river at its source. Our road hence led by way of Kuyulu Tatlar, so called from the numerous wells which supply the village with water, to Melegobi^ This region, though blank on the map, is full of villages, most of which will appear on the next map. It may be noted that the Tada Su of the map does not exist, at least not in the plain of Kuyulu Tatlar and Melegobi ; and, furthermore, the drain-water from this district must run south, and not north as on the map. Melegobi is a large and flourishing village, inhabited almost exclusively by Greek- speaking Greeks. The Greeks are numerous all through the western part of Cappadocia, and generally cling to their language with great tenacity, a fact worthy of notice, inasmuch as the Greeks in other parts of Asia Minor speak only Turkish. Instances of Greek-speaking towns are Nigde, Gelvere, Melegobi (McAeKoVta), and Ortakieui in Soghanli Deressi. ( 1 8 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF Hence we travelled to Soghanli Deressi, the wonders of which have been described by Hamilton. The rock-cut dwellings are more numerous, but of the same character as those at Selme and Ichlara ; only at Soghanli Deressi there are no ternple fagades to be seen. Soghanh Deressi is simply a break in the surrounding plateau from three to four hundred feet deep. The descent from the plateau to the valley is made by a very steep road hewn out of the volcanic tufa. At its head the valley of Ortakieui is about one hundred yards wide ; but the width increases steadily, and it is from five to seven hundred yards wide at the point where Soghanli Deressi branches off laterally from it. While the surrounding plateau is a barren waste, the soil in the valley is exceedingly fertile, delighting the eye with its luxuriant gardens. Whether these rock-cut habitations date originally from an earlier epoch or not, it is at all events certain that they were used by the early Christians. Chapels are numerous, in some of which may still be seen pictures of Byzantine Saints with inscriptions just Hke those common in orthodox churches of to-day. Among the saints depicted are ^epytos, Ba;(o?, Me/oKovpco?, names which may give a clue to the time when Christians worshipped here. In the floor of the chapels graves were cut, in some of which we found human skeletons. In- deed, such tombs are frequent in the dwellings themselves, so that, as Hamilton remarks, the people lived in the same room with their pigeons and their dead. We have a goodly number of photographs from Soghanli Deressi. Zengibar Kalessi is situated about half an hour west of Develi Kara Hissar. It is a lofty rock with two peaks, one of which is consider- ably higher than the other. In the saddle between the two peaks nestles Kalekieui. There can scarcely be a doubt but that the higher peak of Zengibar Kalessi is Nova, the proud rock where Eumenes and his little band defied the whole army of Antigonus for nearly a year. From Develi Kara Hissar we pushed on northward to Indjesu, and through the Sazliik, or place of the bulrushes, to Caesarea, thus pass- ing almost half around the snow-capped peak of Mt. Argaeus. It was my intention to go directly from Develi Kara Hissar to the Antitaurus, not touching at Caesarea until the home journey ; but circumstances made a visit at this time imperatively necessary. We thus made a great detour, and lost four or five days, all on account of one pack- JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. I9 saddle ! At any rate, we learned the important lesson that every article in the outfit for a journey of this kind must be of the very best quality. Parting with regret from our kind friends, the American missiona- ries of Caesarea, we hurried past Tomarza to the Antitaurus, which was crossed by the precipitous pass between Dede Dagh and Beyli Dagh. This region was hitherto unknown ; we found it fertile and well populated, and of course route surveys were made here, as on the whole journey. We visited Comana, the only place marked on the map, about two hours south of Olakaya. The Great Goddess is no longer worshipped in Comana ; but, to our immense astonish- ment, we found a Protestant church there, composed of the converts of the American missionaries. From Comana, now Shahr Deressi, we took a nine hours' journey down the river Sarus to Hadjiu, which is also a seat of the American missionaries. It is on the right side of the river, and about three hours distant from it. Hadjiu is a mod- ern town, inhabited solely by Armenians, and is situated in a great hole in the mountains about '1500 feet below the level of the surround- ing country. Three hours north-east from Hadjiu, the great cafion of the Sarus is reached. The canon is fully 1000 feet deep. The banks are almost perpendicular, so that one can scarcely believe it possible for a living being to descend and ascend ; yet it may be done. Five hours south-east of Cocussus, at an Avshar Yaila, known as Kilissedjik, we found two Greek tombs of a good period. I am inclined to place Laranda here. The plain of Cocussus is remarkable both for its exuberant fertility and for its springs and rivers. A dated inscription of the ninth year of Trajan (107 a.d.), found at Deghirmeri Deressi, informs us that Zeus Epikarpios was then worshipped here ; indeed, in so fertile a plain we should naturally expect to meet with the cult of some god of the harvest. * No. 12. eUlNePOVATPAIA N OY K Al C A POCCe B ACTOY re P M A N I K OY A A K I K OYGTO A I I e TT I K A P TT I U) K ATT I TUJ N T I A AGYCeKTUNIAlU NANeOHKGN 20 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF Tasholuk, a village one hour south of Cocussus, is the site of an old town. Among a goodly number of inscriptions copied at Cocussus were several Roman milliaria. I have been told that the milliaria found by me in the terra i7icognita of Antitaurus are of so great importance that I have no right to keep them from the public until my return from Babylonia. In this Preliminary Report I cannot do more than give the inscriptions in uncial text, hoping to make historical and explanatory remarks upon them at some future time. These milHaria are about eight feet high, and from two and a half to three feet in diameter at the bottom, tapering off to a very thick, blunt point at the top. They are accordingly cone-like in shape. The stones are very rough and unpolished, and the surface is full of elevations and indentations. It is obvious that inscriptions on such a rugged, unequal surface are very difficult to read, and that, without some practical experience in epigraphy, one would stand before them absolutely helpless. Impressions of such inscriptions are altogether worthless, as trial has proved to me conclusively. I. Milliaria at Cocussus (Goksun). No. 13. Goksun. Western Ce?netery. Waddington' s JJ. I MP CAES DIVISEVERNEP DIVIMANTONINI Fl L . MAVRANTONINO PIOFELICIAVG MILIARESTlTVTA PERMVLPOFELLI VMTHEODORVM L EG A VG PR PR PAT One hundred and thirty-third milestone. ( UNiVERSiTY ; JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 21 No. 14. GoksUn. Western Cemetery. S A L. V A L X I M I A N L V I C A E S ANTONIVSGORDIA N V^^O B I I.. L. S I M V S EXARRESTiTVIT PERCVSPIDI A M I N I V M S E VERVMLEGETPR P R ETO R E M P M A One hundred and forty-first milestone. N V No. 15. Goksun. Southern Cemetery. I M P CAESARCIVL VERVS MAXIMI '^^P^CAESSN-i G A I x^l A^p.L D L^P,L e I I A N ETI N V I CTO'^/v NOBILISSIMVS CAESAR VI AS ET PONTES VET TATECON LA BSAS RES T I TV E R V l: AVGG XII PMA One hundred and forty-first milestone. 22 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF No. 16. Goksiin. Southern Cemetery. IMPCAESAR D I V I S E V E R I N E P D I V I M ApiTO MINI Fl L M AV R A NTON N ywwwww ^^ S I s ^^ ivflll A r'e' STITVTA PER MVLPOFEL LI V M T H No. 17. G'dksun. Southern Cemetery. Badly worn and illegible, except LEG PR PR P A One hundred and thirtieth milestone. No. 18. Goksi'in. Southe?'n Cej?ietery. I M P w/////////r///M A V R R I B COS S A P P TES VETTVSTA NLAPSAS RESTITV I T A P K E JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 23 There are several uninscribed milliaria in the cemeteries of Goksiin. From Goksiin we went back in a north-west direction to about six miles from Comana. On this excursion also we found a number of milliaria, and thus were enabled to trace the Roman road from Comana to Cocussus in its entire length. II. MiLLIARLA. OF THE ROAD FROM COiVIANA TO CoCUSSUS. Mehe?net Bet Kieui. One hour north-7vest of Goksiin. No. 19. Y I M PCCC DIOCLETIANO I P ^ I ^ \ I I A C T I T M P I E No. 20. Mehemet Bet Kieui. I M PC A ES A R M A R C V^ ^V L P H I LI P PVS FELIXINVICTVS GETMARCVS ILIPPVSNOBILISSI ^VSCAESAR V IPONTES VET '////. ECON L APSAS ST ITV E R N ] P E NMMEMMIVMH :ET FV A ^^^ N S T A N 24 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF No numerals remain. There are two other uninscribed stones at this place. Half an hour south of Kekli O.ghlou is a stone almost entirely buried. No. 21. Kekli Oghlou. Four hours north of Goksiln. C A E A R M A RCV^ PHILIPPVS PIVS F^ NVICTVSAVG RCVSIVLPHILIP BILISSIMVS CAES ASETPONTES V E ^xTECONLAPSAS RE RARER ANTO NfVM MIVM HIERONEM iEGAVGG PR PR No. 22. Kekli Oghlou. I M PC A ES A R I G A I i V I i "V E ROMA [ Uncut space'] M I N 0^ P I FELICI^AVG TR I B^P^r E L I C I N N I V M S ES E I M I A N VI^LEG^AVG PR PR PAH One hundred and thirty-eighth milestone. Also, two uninscribed stones are at Kekli Oghlou. JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 25 No. 23. Yalak. Two hours from Comana. ARC LIPPVS SSI M VS SAR VI ASETP ONTES VETV STATECON L PSAS RPST^I ERVN N IVX IVM MVC M No. 24. Yalak. CAG S A V OC V 1 DA E OV LCISA PON ON LAPSAS No. 25. Yalak. The only milestone fou7id with a Greek inscription. ^Cl ACYTTATO^ %0C TAG OAOYC^ ^'TOIOI^^P.OVP, ^^PMNTICT^^ P M A One hundred and forty-fourth milestone (see below, p. 35). 2^ PRELIMINARY REPORT OF The Antonifie Itinerary for the whole Antitaurian region seems hopelessly confused, and its inconsistencies will perhaps never be satisfactorily explained. On p. 210 we read : A Coduzalaba Comana XXVI. Siiicis XXIIII. while on p. 2 1 1 we have the following : Item a Caesarea Anazarbo CCXI., sic : Arassaxa XXIIII. Coduzalaba XXIIII. Comana XXIIII. Siricis XVI. Cocuso XXV. Now the milliaria given above show that the Roman road went, as one would naturally expect, by Mehemet Beikieui, Kekli Oghlou, and Yalak ; and as the whole distance between Comana and Cocussus is reckoned as eight hours, there is plainly something wrong in the statement of the Antonine Itinerary. Both Kekli Oghlou and Yalak are sites of small ancient towns ; but the most important of these was at Yalak, and at Yalak I am inclined to place Siricae. In that case the Antonine Itinei'ary would be nearer the truth if it were emended to read : Comana XXIIII. Siricis VI. Cocuso XV. Let it be noted that this, besides being a direct route, is the only natural road from Comana to Cocussus : on the north lies the Biu Bogha Dagh, and on the south the Yuvadja Dagh. It is unreasona- ble to suppose that the Romans would neglect the only natural road- bed to carry a road over the huge mountains just mentioned. On our return journey to Cocussus we followed the Tolbiizek Su to its source, which is about three-quarters of an hour west of Mehemet Beikieui, at the foot of Yuvadja Dagh. Here innumerable springs gush from the mountain side, and the water from them is sufficient to form a large and swift river of the purest, coldest water. From Cocussus we turned our faces eastwards in the direction of Arabissus. The present road, to all intents and purposes, follows the ancient Roman road, most of the milliaria of which were found by us. JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 27 III. MiLLIARIA ON THE ROAD FROM COCUSSUS TO ArABISSUS. No. 26. At an old cemetery by the roadside, forty minutes east of Goksiin. RVS . A RAO I A R POTI VI I TIMPCA ES RESTITVERVNT ANVM LEG PRPR In this cemetery there are four miUiaria, one of which is deeply buried. No. 27. 3ide?n, M A X I M I A N NOb CAE SS No. 28. Ibidem. I M P ^^^M A V^ MMPEPM COANTOR^^ CORLNOCC A E^ LICi AVG^TO RESTIT^SRVNT PER CVSPIA I M/ M I N I u M SEVe RVM CATVM POPRAC^ TOAMM In a cemetery one hour and five minutes east of Goksiin there are two more milliaria ; one nearly buried, the other erect but illegible. 28 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF It was impossible for us to get at the half-buried stones : to raise one out of a hole is generally half a day's work for four men, in a coun- try where levers are not to be had. No. 29. In a cemetery 07ie hour and forty minutes east of G'dksun. PER M EM M No. 30. Ibidem. Erect. PT.^MAXipONTIMp MM XII COS llliPMIBOM IMIMAVBEMANTONINYS^ PERHYLIYMFLACICYMiAElAlAYMMEO No. 31. Ibidem. Erect. L S E ^^^^ y///;///A p A R T I F^^^ ''^ I M P X I mW/A ^IPERCIVL^ No. 32. Ibidem. Erect. d I 00 LET' ^^/^ 5^0 N ST AIT METCAIVMM^ |M A XI M I A NO: JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 29 No. 33. Ibidem. Erect. PIO FELICIA VG TRI BPPERLI CINNIVM SERENI A N VN LEG A VG PR PR P K B One hundred and twenty-second milestone. In the cemetery of KanUikavak we found no less than twenty-six milliaria, many of which were never inscribed. The inscribed stones cost us a day and a half of hard work, in deciphering and copying the inscriptions (Nos. 34-48). No. 34. Kanliikavak. Cemetery. MP SPI ICTV A RCVS NOBI LI SSI M _SARVIAS ET TO T^S VETVSTATE CON LAPSAS RESTITVE PER ANTON IVM MfC MIVMHIERONEM LEG AVG PR PR 30 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF No. 35. Ibidem. V M e ICI VN I ON PR PR P K One hundred and twentieth milestone. No. 36. Ibidem. \N I JNO LISSI M OCASA CATCLG Me NT CRCRCROU II ^CIA I M P P K pnut Possibly the one hundred and twenty-fifth milestone. No. 37. Ibidem. IMP DIVI SEV ERI NEPDIVl MAN TON INI Fl L M A V R NO PIO FELICI A VG Ml LIA RESTITVTA M^^POFELLI VM TH EODORVM LEG AVG PR PR M FK i Possibly the hundred and twenty-first milestone. JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 31 No. 38. Ibidem. PR PR No. 39. Ibidem. I M P CA ESARI M A RCO A NTON I OGORAIANOPI OFELICI AVGVS TO R ESTITVERV NTP ER CVSPI A IVM FSAM I N I VM SEVERVM LEG ATVM PROP RAG^TOR EM No. 40. Ibidem. Two inscriptions are so inscribed on and over each other that it is perhaps impossible to untangle them ; but the following can be read : I M CAES M ARCVS |VL PH I LI PPVS PIVS FELIX No. 41. Ibidem. IMPP OCPTIAI GTM ALTIUAL MAXIMIANO PPFF INVAVG ET FIAulv./A| CONSTANTIO 32 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF EIC A , Al CAES MAXIMIANO \_uncut space\ ' H MAXPONTMAXTRIBPOTVIO IP XI COSI I PP PROCOS ET IMPCAES MAVREL . ANTONI^^^ NVSAVG \_na7?ie erased'\ {erased^ TITVERVNT PERC- IVLIVM FLAG CVM AELIANVM LEG PR PR No. 42. Ibidefti. IMPP diOCLETIANO IMPCAE^'S'^AVRVAL MAXIMIANO LSEPTIMIVS SEVERVSAVG PPLE I NV PIVS PEPTINAX AVG ARABiADlAB PARTH MAXPONT MAXTRIBTli OTVI OICT IMPXI COSIII PPPROCOS ET IMPCAES ET CAIVA MAVREL ANTON I NVSAVGNO ETLSEPT^^VS NObb CAESS^^ESTITVERVNT PERC- IVLIVM FLACCVM AELIANVM LEG PR PR Nos. 43 and 44. Ibide?n . I M R CAESM A RCVSIVLP H I LI PPVS PIV S EELI XI NVI CTVSAVG E T M ARCVS JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 1 VLI VS PHI LI PPVS NO BILISSI MVS CAESAR VIA S ET PONTES P/ E T V S T A T 'W/V///U 1 A p ; A ^ 'WWWW ~ V E R WMMMMM.^ ^ 33 On the other side of the same stone there is this I M ppecc N A I d lOCLeTIANG ET M AVRVAL M AX I M I ANO PPFF INVIAVG VI VAI CON STANTIO ETCAI^^A^E M AXI M I ANO NObb CAESS No. 45. Ibidem. AX PP FF ! N VI AVG ET FLAV I V AL CON STANTIO ET CVALEN M AX I M 1 ANO NObb CAESS P 34 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF Nos. 46, 47, 48. Ibidem. Stone with three insciHptions inscribed on and over each other. After much tabor I succeeded in disentangling them. No. I. reads : IMPCA ESAR GVIMVSTREBO NGALLVS ET IMPCAES ARGVIVIVS VELDVMI NIANVS VOLVSIANV Pll FELICINVICTIAVGGVIAS ET PONTES VETVSTATE CON LAPSAS RESTITVERVNT PERA VERGILIVM MAXIMVMVC VGG PR PR No. IL reads RESTITVTA P,E R M V L P o'fellivm TH EODORV M LEG AVG PR PR M No. III. reads I M P P C C d lOCLETI ANO ET M AVRU LI M A X I M I A N PPFFi N VI AVG ET Fl AVGi VAL CON STA NTIO ETCAI VAL M AX I M I A NO NObb CA ESS Between Kanliikavak and Arabissus no milliaria were found. Indeed all seem to have been transported from this whole region JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 35 to the cemetety of Kanliikavak to serve as tombstones. Arabissus, now Yarpuz, was once an important place, to judge by the remains still extant, which, however, are mostly Christian. About one and a half hours west of Arabissus is Ziaret Serai, a Seldjukian palace or villa. In a cemetery midway between Emirli and Ziaret Serai I found the one hundredth milestone (No. 49). No. 49. Cemetery betiueen Emirli and Ziaret Serai. MPTRI BPOT VIA ET^^NTE S R^S T I T V E R V N C I V L I ^pp C I AVG ' PR c All the rest of the stones have Greek numerals, this one alone hav- ing the Latin C. At Yalak the one hundred and forty- fourth milestone (No. 25) was found. It will be seen that the numerals diminish steadily along the road from Comana to Cocussus, Kanliikavak, Arabissus, a fact which proves conclusively that Mr. Ramsay was correct in his opinion that distances in the Trans-Antitaurian region were measured from Melitene. From Arabissus we undertook a zigzag journey in a northerly direction, with Khurman Kalessi as an objective point. This ex- cursion was disastrous to man and beast, and its results were purely chorographic. Our return journey led us by way of Tanir, situated on the Khurman Su just at the point where it emerges from the mountains. The traces of antiquity are abundant at Tanir, and the name would seem to indicate that it is the site of Ptandaris. Hence we returned to Arabissus. No. 50. Cemetery of Yarpuz. So super-inscribed as to be hopelessly illegible. NOBI LI SSI M \ CA ES 36 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF No. 51. Cemetery of Yarpiiz. E^rct hut ilk^ible. CO N LA P IV. MlLLIARlA ON THE ROAD FROM Ak^BISSUS TO MeLITENE. No. 52. I71 Cemetery one hour and four 7ninutes east of Yai-puz. I RESTIT PER CIVLIVM FLAG CVM AELIANVM LEG PRPR MIL P This is another hundredth milestone, with the numeral in (ireek. No. 53. Ibidem. IMP^^GAESAR A VR EL S^space overwritten'\ ^POTESTPgGOS VIAS ET PONT VETTVSTAT A PSAS REST 1% Two more stones in this same cemetery are wholly illegible. JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 3/ Nos. 54 and 55. [These two inscriptions were not received from Dr. Sterrett in time to be prmted here. Edd.] At Albistan we found nine milliaria, some of which were never in- scribed, and the rest, with one exception, are wholly illegible. No. 56. Albistan. Ce?netery. CA ES EP mmmmw/Mmm. RESTITVTA P FELLI VM THEODORVM AVG PR PR Owing to illness we were delayed several days at Albistan, during which time kind attentions were showered upon us by the American missionaries. Henceforward no milliaria were found. I am wholly unable to account for this, as there are only two possible roads from Albistan to Melitene, one of which we traversed on the way out and the other on our return. It may be safely affirmed, however, that the Roman road did not go by way of Koz Agha and Poulah, since this whole road is much too difficult. Had the Roman road gone this way, it could not have avoided the abrupt pass of Olakaya, and it is exactly this pass which makes it necessary to look for it elsewhere. The only other route is that by way of Derende, and thence down the Tokhma Su, via Argas to Malatia. From Albistan we visited Arslan Tash, six hours to the north-east, to get photographs of the very antique lions which are there. Theiice we returned to Demirdjili, Koz Agha, and across the pass of Olakaya 38 PRELIMINARY REPORT. OF to Poulah and Melitene. The chorographic results are considerable. They do not fall within the limits of a paper like the present, and, in fact, can be worked up properly only by a professional geographer. Professor Heinrich Kiepert of Berhn had the goodness to make two special maps for my journey, at the cost of great labor to himself; and in acknowledgment of this I have sent him all my route-surveys and other topographical matter. He has delayed, as I am informed, the publication of his new map of Asia Minor, in order to insert the routes explored by Mr. Ramsay and me during the past summer. The new city of Malatia, being the midway-station between Con- stantinople and Bagdad, is a wide-awake business town, and in this re- spect it differs very materially from the ordinary Turkish town. When Mehemet Ali of Egypt was at war with his master, the Sultan, a large number of Turkish troops were quartered for an indefinite period on the people of old Malatia, which stood on the site of Melitene. This was more than the Turks, long-suffering though they are, could bear ; so they abandoned their old homes to the soldiers, and built a new city among the gardens seven or eight miles west of Melitene. Consequently, old Malatia is now a mass of ruins, among which may be seen many fine specimens of the ornamented architecture of the Seldjuk builders. From old Malatia our road lay through an exceedingly fertile dis- trict to the junction of the Tokhma Su with the Euphrates. Hence- forward our faces were turned steadily towards the west, and our homeward road led us by way of Arga, and thence through a very mountainous region, inhabited solely by Kizil Bashi Kurds, an inhos- pitable, murderous set of filthy villains, who still preserve all the ferocious characteristics of their ancestors, the ancient Kap8ov)(oL, of whom Xenophon has little good to report in the Anabasis. West of Arga some traces of the old Roman road are to be seen, but no milliaria. At the Beli Gedik we reached the Tokhma Su, and followed it up to Derende, which means " in (or at) the gorge." An hour east of Derende the gorge is entered, and the new town stretches out along the river for the whole distance between this point and the Derende of the map. Old Derende was abandoned like Malatia, and for the same reason. At old Derende the river has cut its way through the rock, which rises perpendicularly about three hundred feet on either side. The width of the pass through which the river JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 39 thus flows is about fifty feet. On the right bank is the almost impregnable castle, probably dating from the early Turks ; at its foot, on the west, lies the abandoned town. Midway between Ashta and Arslan Tash we found a very ancient lion in black basalt, and took photographs of it from various positions. From Arslan Tash we took a look at the utterly unknown Palanga Ova, passing via Ketchi Magara, which is much too far north on the map, to Elmali, Boylik Tatlar, and Khurman Kalessi. Khurman Kalessi, a proud castle possibly of early Turkish origin, stands on a crag just at the junction of the Maragos Tchai with the Khurman Su. Between Khurman Kalessi and Maragos there are three inscriptions in large letters on three huge rocks by the road- side ; taken together, they are the most interesting topographical documents within my knowledge. The first consists of eight heroic hexameters ; the second, of two hexameters ; and the third is an elegiac distich. Two of them cannot be reached without artificial help, which everywhere in Turkey it is difificult to obtain. Of these two we have photographs. The third can be reached, but only with danger to life or limb. The surface covered by the inscription is so great that only a few letters in each line can be read at a time ; this done, one must climb down and up again, it being impossible to move horizontally along the face of the rock. They read as follows : No. 57. AKIAAI0YXeiPIC04>0YAAeEAN APOYTOYKA|ct>IAITT"mOY THCAeKOPHCKOTTIHCTTOTATTHAIBATOIO0OPOYCA[C] A0ANATQNBOYAHICINYTTeKYreNAPKTONATTHMQN AIX0AAIHICKQMHICIiAITTTTIOYAPCINOOYTe 0YT0CAPirNQT0CTTPei^N0P0CACTY4>eAIKT0C eTTAeTOA'APCINGQIMeNeAeOAIACAPPOMAHNA TQIA'APeTTITTPOXOHICIAYQTTGTAMQNCOBArHNA TTICT0IA'AAAHA0IGeTAP0ITTeA0NQN4>IA0THTA APPHKTHNTTArOCOYTOCATTArreAAOIKAieTreiTA 40 PRELIMINARY REPORT OF No. 58. T0YAYT0YXEIPIC04>0Y GNNeATOITTeTPHeeNeTTIKPHNHNCOBArHNQN KAAAIPOONCTAAIOIKOPAKOCTTOTAMieOTTAPOXOAC No. 59. T0YAYT0YXEIPIC04>0Y errYOITOICOBArHNAKAIAirAHGNTAAOeTPA HNAOAirONCTieYCHIC/OYC^AieKKAMATOY As I attach importance to the thorough understanding of these inscriptions, I add the text in small letters : No. 57. ^AklWlov ^LpL(T6(j)ov '^AXe^di/- Spov Tov Kal ^ iXiTnriov. Troche Koprj (tkottltj^ ttot cltt rjXL^droLo Oopov(Ta\_v'j dOavoLTOiv /BovXrjcriv VTreKcj^vyeu apKTov dTnjfjLOJV St^^aSiT^? [/o]w/xT7crt ^tXtTTTTtou 'ApcTLPOov re. ovTO^ dpiyvdiTo^; Upeicop 6po<^ dcrTvcfyeXiKTO^;. eirXeTo ' 'ApcTLvoco /xa^ iSeOXua ^appofjLoirjva, T(p 8' dp* inl TTpo^ofjcrL hvo) irora^cxiv '^o^dyrjva. TTLCTTOL 8' dXXljXoLS TapOL TTeXoV, OJV (^tXoTT^Ta dpprJKTTjv irdyo^ ovto^ dirayyeXXoi koX eireiTa. No. 58. TOV aVTOV ^LpLCr6(f)OV. evvta roL Trer prjOei/ eVi Kprjviqv So/3ay7]i>(ov KaXXipoov (TTdSiOL KopaAco? noTafjLolo nap' o^Oas. No. 59. TOV avrov Xeipicrocfyov. eyyvOi tol Xo^dyrjva /cat aiyXrjevra Xoerpd- rjv 8' oXiyov cmevcrrj^; [X]ou(T[ea]t e/c Kap^drov. JOURNEY IN ASIA MINOR. 4I [Note. The following changes in the text of these inscriptions have been adopted, chiefly in accordance with the suggestions of Professor F. D. Allen, since the paper was received from Dr. Sterrett : in No. 57, I, Kopr] cTKOTnrj'; for Kopr/cr/coTrn;?, and ^opovcra[v] for 6opovora[^Z> '^ZZ'\