TEOLLEKS GUIDE; tPLETE ART OF TROI.I.XNG LI, Er LONDON: .AYN Ex Libris C. K. OGDEN V V THE TROLLER'S GUIDE: BEING A COMPLETE PRACTICAL TREATISE ON THE ART OF TROLLING; OR, FISHING FOR JACK AND PIKE. ILLUSTRATED WITH TWENTY-EIGHT CUTS. BY T. F. SALTER, ESQ. THE THIRD EDITION. WITH THE AUTHOR'S LAST CORRECTIONS AND ADDITIONS. LONDON : JAMES MAYNARD, PANTON STREET, HAYMARKET. 1841. PREFACE. As the art of Trolling has received many improvements since Mr. NOBBS wrote on the subject, it has been sug- gested to me, that a Treatise on Jack Fishing, written by a modern practical Troller, would be very accept- able to the Lovers of Angling in general ; and having had much practice and experience in every method pursued in taking both Jack and Pike with the angle ; with the advantage, also, of a residence for many years, near one of the best rivers in England for Trolling, I have presumed to offer my opinions and instructions, as a guide to those who may be desirous of learning how to take Jack and Pike in a fair, pleasing, and sportsman- like manner ; and in order to prevent the possibility of misunderstanding the directions given for baiting the hooks, &c. I have illustrated those directions with cuts, 2000104 iv PREFACE. executed under my own immediate inspection ; and have also endeavoured to convey my instructions in so plain and concise a manner, that the juvenile and inex- perienced Troller may clearly and promptly understand them ; and I doubt not, if those directions are assidu- ously put in practice, the novice may be soon enabled to say : " I seldom to the rivers went, But either Jack or Pike I took." And I also flatter myself, that many who have had some practice in the art of Trolling, will find in this work observations on the baits, seasons, and weather proper for Trolling, how to cast the baited hook in search, and divers other matters connected with and relative to Jack and Pike fishing, well worthy their notice and attention. T. F. SALTER. CONTENTS. PAGE Chap. I. Prefatory Remarks on Trolling for Jack and Pike 1 II. The Gorge Hook, and how to bait it .4 III. Single Hooks for Live-bait Fishing ; to bait them ; with Directions for whipping Hooks to Gimp . 8 IV. Snap-fishing, and how to bait the hooks . .16 V. Trolling Lines, Winch, and Thumb-winders, Bank- runners, Traces, &c. . . .25 VI. Rods proper for Trolling, or Jack and Pike Fishing, and how to Troll without a Rod . . 31 VII. Baits for Trolling or Jack Fishing . . 35 VIII. The Troller's Day, with Directions how and where to place the Winch on the Rod To cast the baited Gorge Hook To take Jack or Pike To land and unhook them, &c. . . .38 IX. Full Directions for taking Jack and Pike with a live Bait and floated Line Proper Kettles, &c. for carrying live Baits Various ways of using Snap-hooks explained and the most proper Sea- sons, Weather, &c. for Trolling, pointed out . 55 X. Observations on the different ways practised in fish- ing for Jack and Pike Also on Trimmers Con- cluding with Remarks on the Nature, &c. of Jack and Pike, and how to prepare and cook them . 68 Index . 84 CHAP. I No. 1, Live-Bait Kettle. No. 2, Book or Case for Trolling Tackle. No. 3, Telescope-handle Landing Hook. PREFATORY REMARKS ON TROLLING FOR JACK OR PIKE. HE art of Jack Fishing or taking Jack or Pike with a hook, line, and rod, is properly termed TROLLING ; but this branch of angling is generally divided and described, by Anglers, under the three following heads, viz. TROLLING, LIVE- BAIT-FISHING, and SNAP-FISHING. Trolling, in the limited sense of the word, means taking Jack and Pike with the gorge hook ; Live-bait fishing, when a floated line is used ; and Snap-fishing, when the Angler so places his baited hooks, that, immediately he feels a bite, he strikes with much force, and generally throws over his head, or drags the Jack or Pike on shore, instead of playing his victim till he is exhausted. I shall 2 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. fully explain these different modes of angling in Chap. X. with observations on the advantages and merits of each. Trolling I consider a valuable branch of fishing, affording the Angler several months' amusement during the year, and it may be practised without danger to the health, when every other mode of angling ceases to be either profitable or prudent to follow ; for as the Winter approaches, Fish seldom rise to the surface of the water, but leave the sharps, shallows, and scouers, for the more deep and still parts of rivers or other waters ; the fly-fisherman may then lay by his tackle till the ensuing Spring is well advanced. Barbel, Carp, Tench, Perch, Eels, Gudgeon, and Dace, also refuse the choicest bait the wily Angler can offer them when the Winter commences ; and, though Chub and Roach will certainly take a bait very freely at bottom, during the whole Winter, yet the Angler, who is subject to the cramp, or rheumatic affections, or is advancing in years, should not hazard his health by sitting or standing in one place by the river side for several hours together in the Winter months, which he certainly must do if he expect to kill a good dish of Roach ; but when properly clothed, especially about the feet and legs, and will take the trouble of dressing his boots or shoes with the following composition, he will seldom get wet, or even feel dampness, after being exposed for many hours in the rain or swampy places. Take half a pound of mutton suet, five ounces of bees' wax, cut into small pieces, to which TROLLING FOR JACK OR PIKE. 3 add an ounce of black resin powdered ; simmer the whole in a pipkin over a moderate fire, till all is melted and well mixed. When you wish to use it, render it liquid by melting, and rub it well into the leather with a brush. Note. This mixture appears yellow on the boots or shoes, and if that is objected to, put among it half an ounce of powder blacking. He may then indulge himself with a few hours' trolling whenever the water is fit for the purpose, because trolling is strong exercise, from moving continually from one part of a river, or water, to another; and if the Fish are well on the feed, and he kills two or three brace of heavy Pike, the Angler will find that the exertions he has made in casting the bait, playing.killing, and landing those Fish, and the carrying them home, nearly approach to labour ; and as labour is generally considered conducive to health, the Troller has but little to fear on that score, but may allow himself the pleasure of killing a few brace of Jack or Pike for his own table, or for the more pleasing gratification of oc- casionally supplying that of a friend. Having thus cursorily discoursed on the nature of Trolling, or Jack Fishing, &c. I shall now proceed to instruct the reader how to choose hooks, lines, rods, and other tackle fit for the various methods practised by Anglers who excel in the art of Trolling or Jack- fishing, with full and clear directions how to bait the hooks, accompanied with cuts or engravings to illustrate the same. THE TROLLER S GUIDE. CHAP. II. THE GORGE HOOK, AND HOW TO BAIT IT. THE gorge hook consists of two, or what is called a double Eel hook : to the shank of the hook is fastened about two or three inches of brass wire twisted, the end of which forms a loop ; to this loop about nine inches of gimp is tied, the other end of the gimp being turned and tied into a loop, to be ready to loop on the traces or trolling line, either to a swivel or by a slip or loop knot ; but those Anglers who will take the trouble to add a box-swivel to the gorge hook in the following manner, will find it assist much in spinning the bait, and enticing the Jack or Pike to take it : First, take a piece of gimp, about three inches long, and fasten it to the wire of the hook ; and to the other end fix a box-swivel ; then take another piece of gimp, about six inches in length, and fasten one end of it to the aforesaid swivel ; and make a loop at the other to fix on the traces or trolling line. To make this hook sink, or of a sufficient weight to be cast to any distance, the shank of the hook and part of the brass wire is neatly covered with lead, some of a long octagon shape, others of a round or barrel form, (I prefer the latter;) and I also generally re- move about a third of the lead from the brass of those hooks which I find kept ready for sale at the fishing- tackle shops ; because I have found, when the lead lays nearly the whole length of the bait-fish, and THE GORGE HOOK. 5 especially if a Bleak or thin Roach, that when the Jack strikes it, his teeth pierces through the flesh and touches the lead; he then immediately drops the bait. Now by removing a part of the lead as above directed, the remainder the Angler will find to be suf- ficient for sinking, &c. his bait, and it will lay at the bottom of the throat, or only a little lower ; and as Jack generally seize their prey by or across the middle, in such case his teeth seldom come in contact with the lead, and he then, without fear, retires to his haunt, and soon pouches the whole. Having described the nature of a gorge hook, I will now instruct the reader how to bait the same. Notice the cuts beneath : O- 3 No. 1 Gorge hook baited. 2 Gorge hook. 3. Baiting Needle. To bait the gorge hook, take a baiting needle, and hook the curved end of it to the loop of the gimp, (to which the hook is tied;) then introduce the point of the needle into a dead bait's mouth, and bring it out at the middle of the fork of its tail, drawing the gimp through the bait, the lead will then lie hid inside the bait's belly, and the shank of the hooks will be inside its mouth, the 6 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. barbs and points outside and turning upwards; some Anglers turn the points downwards. Now to keep the bait steady on the hooks, tie the tail-part of it, just above the fork, to the gimp with white thread, silk, or cotton ; but if a needle and thread is passed through the flesh of each side of the bait, about half an inch above the tail, so as to encircle the gimp and then tied, it is a neater and better way than tying round the outside. The baited hook is now complete to fix to the trol- ling line, to go in search of Jack or Pike ; however, it is necessary that the reader should know that Anglers use Fish for bait when trolling with the gorge hook, varying in size from one to four ounces in weight; for which reason, it is proper to have an assortment of the different sizes of gorge hooks, that you may always have a hook proportionate to the size of the bait- fish your judgment leads you to select ; for you must no- tice, that the barbs and points of the hook should not project from the sides of the bait's mouth, but should lay very close, because, if the points, &c. project, they are very likely to be felt by Jack or Pike when they are in the act of changing the position of the bait-fish in order to pouch it : if they do, they will then imme- diately blow it out of their mouth; and also when cast- ing, dipping, drawing, and spinning the bait, those pro- jecting parts of the hook frequently catch hold of weeds, &c. by which misfortune the hook is drawn from its position, and the bait-fish either much mutilated or entirely spoiled. There is some difference of opinion among Anglers THE GORGE HOOK. / in respect to sewing up the mouth of the bait fish; but after the hook has been placed in a proper man- ner, and the tail part tied or sewed to the gimp, I think there is little occasion for stitching up the mouth, and therefore never do it; but I have certainly seen many Jack and Pike killed with the mouth of the bait stitched or sewed up. In regard to cutting off the fins of the bait fish, I am decidedly of opinion, it is to the Angler's advantage to cut them all close away, because the bait will then spin or twirl more freely in the water when sinking or being drawn up, than when the fins are left on ; and further, the bait-fish will last longer, for when the fins are left on, they frequently catch or hang among weeds ; and when this occurs the bait-fish is generally torn, or deprived of part of its scales, and of course soon ceases to be an enticing bait. This is of great consequence to the Troller who may be short of baits, and also far from a place where he can replenish his bait box : for if the bait-fish remain in tolerable pre- servation, and Jack or Pike are strong on the feed, with care and skill the Angler may frequently kill a brace or more with one bait-fish. B 2 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. CHAP III. Fig. 1. SINGLE HOOKS FOR LIVE-BAIT FISHING : TO BAIT THEM ; WITH DIRECTIONS FOR TYING OR WHIPPING HOOKS TO GIMP. WHEN a single hook is used, it is baited in the two following ways : pass the point and harb of the hook through the two lips of the live bait-fish, on the side of the mouth, which does not distress the bait as it would do by passing them through the middle or nose part of the fish. The other way is, to pass the point and barb of the hook under the back fin of the bait- Fish, and bring it out on the other side. (See the Cut above.) Be careful, when you pass the hook under the back fin, that it does not go too deep, so as to touch or injure the back bone ; for, if it does, the bait- fish cannot swim strong, and will soon die. Note. When you use a single hook for Jack-fishing, in the way above described, prefer those of the number 4 or 5. It is necessary the Troller should know how to tie or whip on the hooks himself, in case of accident; therefore I shall direct him to do it in as plain and TYING ON HOOKS. concise a manner as possible : To tie a hook to ginip, take some strong fine floss silk, well wax it, with shoe- makers' wax then take the hook and hold it between the thumb and finger of the left-hand, and whip round the shank, from the bend to the top, with waxed silk ; then lay the gimp on the inside part of the shank of the hook, and whip it close and tightly down, carrying your whipping till nearly opposite the point of the hook ; then turn back the point of your silk, and hold it down with your thumb, the silk will then be in a loop, which you must pass or lap over three or four times the end you hold under your thumb ; now take that end and draw it gradually until the lappings which were passed over lie close and firm, and then cut off the spare waxed silk : this is called the hidden or finishing knot, and will not draw. Some Anglers rub a little hog's lard or suet over the whipping, which makes it smooth, and also helps to preserve it ; but a little good oil-varnish, or liquid tar, is superior. This is the best way I can describe to tie or whip on a hook, though, probably, not so intelligible as might be wished ; but any experienced Angler, or the persons keeping fishing- tackle shops, can teach the novice in two or three mi- nutes how to whip or tie on a hook, which he would do well to avail himself of the first opportunity. 10 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. Fig. 2. DOUBLE AND TREBLE HOOKS FOR LIVE-BAIT FISHING. Provide two hooks, either brazed together or made on one shank, tied to about eight or nine inches of gimp, with a loop at the end of the gimp ; or you may tie two single hooks back to back on a piece of gimp, instead of the double ones ; then take a baiting needle, and hook the curve end into the loop of the gimp ; now enter the point of the baiting needle just nnder the skin of the live-bait-fish, close to the gills, guiding it upwards, and bring it out close to the back, at the extremity of the back fin, and draw the gimp after till the bend of the hooks is brought to the place where the needle entered, and all is ready to fix to the trolling line. (See the Cut). Note. Use hooks of such a size that the points and barbs do not project over the belly or shoulder of the bait-fish, unless you intend them as a snap, (See Live- bait-fishing, Chap. IX.} that when a Jack or Pike seizes the bait he may not feel them. Hooks double as DOUBLE AND TREBLE HOOKS. 11 above described, of various sizes, are kept ready for sale at the principal fishing-tackle shops. The reader will notice, that the gimp and shank of the hooks are to lay under the skin of the bait-fish, and therefore be careful to carry the baiting-needle cau- tiously, so as not to wound the bait's-flesh, and it will feel very little inconvenience from the operation, but will swim nearly as strong in the water with the hooks attached to it as without. Observe, by casting in and drawing out a bait so hooked several times, the skin of the bait-fish is apt to strip downwards, and in consequence the hooks lose their proper place ; to prevent which, I use a No. 9 hook, tied to about an inch of gut, with a loop to the end of it : pass the loop over the gimp that is tied to the double hook, and bring it to the bends of them ; now when the hook is baited, take hold of the small hook, and run the point and barb into the bait-fish's under lip ; this prevents the skin from stripping down, as before alluded to, and the bait remains much more lively and tempting to a Jack or Pike. This method of baiting hooks is a most killing way in live-bait-fishing, and to be preferred to every other. Again observe the Cut, to illustrate this description. Note. When the double hook above described is used, the sizes No. 4 or 5 will be found most proper, when tied to gimp ; but when tied to twisted gut, those of the size No. 6 should be preferred. 12 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. Fig. 3. TREBLE HOOK, FIVE HOOKS, AND SPRING SNAP. To fit this treble hook, take two hooks that are made on one shank, and about half way up the shank tie a smaller size hook, a No. 7 or 8. (See the hooks in the Cut above). Now tie the whole to about nine inches of gimp, with a loop at the end, and all is ready to be baited ; having a live-bait-fish, enter the small hook beneath its back fin, (avoid touching the back bone), and bring the point and barb out on the other side ; the two large hooks will then lie close to the side of the bait. (See the Cut above). Some Anglers add two more hooks to the three above de- scribed, by tying two hooks made on one shank to the other on which the three hooks are tied, so as to allow the hooks to hang down the other side of the bait-fish ; other Anglers tie four single hooks, No. 2 size, to four pieces of gimp, each piece about an inch long ; then tie those four short pieces to about nine inches of very stout gimp, and in the middle of SPRING-SNAP HOOK. 13 those four large hooks they have one of the size No. 7, tied to a piece of gut, the top of which is tied among the four large ones. (See the Cut). The small one is to hook through the bait's back fin, as already de- scribed, and the large hooks will hang loose, two on each side of it. SPRING SNAP. If the Angler chooses to use a spring snap with three hooks, (as represented in the Cut above), in prefer- ence to the plain, or, as some term them, the dead snap, (terms synonymous, meaning a snap without a spring), which I by no means recommend, he has only to follow the directions given on baiting the dead or plain snap. 14 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. BEAD HOOK. The bead-hook is formed of two single hooks, tied back to back on nine inches of gimp, or you may pur- chase them made of one piece of wire; between the lower part of the shanks is fastened a small link or two of chains, having a piece of lead of a conical form, or like a drop-bead, (from which it takes its name) linked by a staple to it ; (See the Cut above). The lead is put into the live bait's mouth, (a Gudgeon is the best bait) which is slightly sewed up with white thread ; the bait will still live and swim very strong for many hours : but I cannot recommend this hook, because I have frequently found, when I have had a run, the Fish has generally dropped the bait, instead of pouching it ; and you must see, that unless the Jack pouches the bait, you have no chance of killing him : this often arises from the hooks hanging loose to each other, and thereby creating an alarm in the Jack or Pike. And again, those loose hooks frequently hang to weeds, &c. : on the whole, I think the bead-hook is not worthy a place among the Trailer's tackle, therefore shall not again make mention of it ; but in place thereof, will inform you of one much better. LIVE-BAIT SNAP HOOK. 15 AN EXCELLENT LIVE-BAIT SNAP. Take two hooks of the size No. 3, and tie each of them to about an inch and a quarter of twisted wire ; then take a hook, of the size No. 8, and about ten inches of gimp ; put one end of the gimp to the wire that the aforesaid hooks are tied to ; lay the hook No. 8 on the wire and gimp, and tie the whole very securely together ; then make a loop at the other end of the gimp, and the whole is ready to receive the bait. (See the Cut). To bait this snap, act as foEows : Take a proper- sized live Gudgeon, Roach, or Dace, and run the small hook through the flesh just under the back fin, and let the two large hooks hang one on each side of the bait- fish, and all is complete. When a Jack seizes your bait, and runs off, strike smartly, and you will seldom fail hooking him. Note : When tying the hooks and c 16 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE gimp together, place the large hooks so that the point of one of them shall stand towards the head of the bait- fish, and the other towards the tail. CHAP. IV. SNAP-FISHING, AND HOW TO BAIT THE HOOKS. DEAD-SNAP, WITH TWO OR FOUR HOOKS. TAKE about twelve inches of stout gimp, make a loop at one end ; at the other end tie. a hook, size No. 2, and about an inch further up the gimp, tie another hook of the same size ; procure a drop-bead lead, which the fishing-tackle shops keep fixed to a small ring or two. Now, to bait the hooks, proceed as fol- lows : put the loop of the gimp under the gill of a dead-bait-fish, and bring it out at its mouth ; draw the gimp till the hook at the bottom comes just behind SNAP-FISHING. 17 the back fin of the bait, and the point and barb pierces slightly through the skin of it ; to keep the hook steady, then pass the ring of the drop-bead lead over the loop of the gimp, and fix the lead inside the bait- fish's mouth, and sew the mouth up, (See the Cut), and all is ready to fasten to the trolling line. If you add two more hooks to the two already described, you wil. then have a very killing snap ; to fit which, take a piece of stout gimp, about four inches long, and make a small loop at one end, and then tie two hooks of the same size and in the same manner as the first two ; after the first two and the lead are in their places, and before the bait's mouth is sewed up, pass the loop of the short piece of gimp under the gill and out of the mouth of the bait, and draw till the hooks are in the same situation on that side as the other ; now pass the loop of the long piece of gimp through the loop of the short one, and draw all straight ; tie the two pieces of gimp together close to the bait's mouth, and sew that up ; or you may tie the short piece of gimp to the long one instead of having a loop at the end. (See the Cut of four hooks). If you do so, you must pass the hooks first through the bait-fish's mouth and out at the gills, instead of in at the gills and out of the mouth ; then slightly fix them through the bait's skin just to keep them in their places ; and when you feel a bite and strike, they clear themselves and hook firmly into the Jack or Pike ; or, if you wish to increase the strength of your tackle, tie the second two hooks to a piece of gimp of the same length as 18 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. the first ; this way does not look so neat certainly as the above described ; but that is of little consequence, for snap-fishing, altogether, depends more on the strength of arm and tackle than on skill or science. DEAD SNAP, WITH A GORGE HOOK AND DOUBLE HOOK. To bait this snap, first introduce the gorge into the bait's mouth, the leaded part laying in its belly ex- actly as when you intend trolling with a gorge hook, (see Gorge Hook baited}. Then take a double hook, No. 4 or 5, which must be tied to a piece of gimp about three inches long, with a small loop at the end ; now take your baiting needle and enter the point of it in the bait's back just where the back fin is, (but note, it is the best way to cut off the said fin and every other fin), and bring it out at the tail ; having first put the loop of the gimp to which the hooks are tied through the curve or eye of the baiting needle, draw the loop out at the tail of the bait, the hooks will then lay close over the bait's back, one on each side. After you have placed the hooks properly, take the loop end of the gimp to which the gorge hook is tied, and pass it through the loop of the gimp to which the other SNAP FISHING. 19 hooks are tied ; draw all close to the bait's tail, and tie them very fast with waxed silk round the Fish, just above the tail, and all is then complete to fasten on to your line ; in this case, if you wish or think proper to strengthen your tackle, tie those two hooks to gimp of the same length as that to which the gorge is tied, and fasten both loops together with the trolling line or trace. The superiority of this method of using a snap con- sists in all the hooks laying close to the bait, and also in the gimp and line coming from the tail instead of from the mouth or back, which is very material, for hooks so placed will allow the bait to appear more like a live Fish swimming or spinning about in the water, than if it is hooked by the back fin or side ; in which case, much of the hooks are exposed, the gimp sticks up, &c. (See the Cut). Over the bait-fish are represented the two hooks, with the short piece of gut, and below the bait-fish the gorge hook, and in the middle the bait-fish, with the hooks properly placed in it. Note: I always carry some double hooks tied to short pieces of gimp, when I troll with a gorge, because, when I find Jack will move and seize my bait but will not pouch it, I put on those back hooks, and convert my gorge to a snap, which is done with little trouble or loss of time ; and, of course, when my bait is so altered, I strike immediately I feel a ran ; for the Angler will find, during his practice, that after many hours' trolling, and several runs, if he cannot get a Fish to pouch, a snap is then his only resource, c 2 20 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. DEAD-SNAP, WITH ONE HOOK. To bait this snap, take a long-shanked No. 1 hook, and tie it to about twelve inches of strong gimp ; then fix the baiting needle to the loop of the gimp ; enter the point of the needle just below the end on the side of the back fin of the dead bait-fish, carrying it care- fully just beneath the skin; bring it out about a quarter of an inch before you reach the gill, then enter the needle under the gill of the bait-fish, and bring it out of the mouth ; draw the gimp after, until the bend point and barb of the hook lay on the bait as represented in the cut; now take a bead-drop lead, such as described in baiting a snap with four hooks, in page 194; pass it over the loop of the gimp to which the hook is tied, and place it inside the mouth of the bait-fish, and sew the mouth up, and all is ready to fix to the trolling- line. Note : The lead is placed in the mouth of the bait, to add to its weight, which enables the Angler to cast his bait with more certainty to any particular spot, the gimp to which the hook is tied being directed to lay only just under the skin of the bait-fish ; so that \vhcn the Angler feels a bite and strikes, the gimp BARB HOOK. 21 then rips away, and enables the hook to fix firmly into either the Jack or Pike ; but if it be carelessly placed too deep when you strike, the hook gets fixed, or nearly buried in the body of the bait, instead of the Jack, &c. Therefore, recollect, in baiting for the snap, where the hooks lay outside the bait-fish, that they are so placed as to easily clear themselves, and thereby get firm hold of the prey ; but if the Angler would take the trouble of introducing another hookj of the same size, exactly in the same manner, under the skin of the bait-fish on the other side, he would then have a very neat and effective snap, and also one very easily baited. Note : You may have the second hook tied to a short piece of gimp just to reach the bait's mouth, and fasten it to the first piece ; or, if both pieces of gimp are long, it is of no consequence, because fine tackle is not requisite when snap-fishing. BARB OR SPEAR HOOK. THE shank of this hook is loaded with lead ; one end of it is like a dart or harpoon, the other end a single hook. Introduce the barb or dart end into the bait's mouth, and bring it out near the tail ; the lead is then in the bait's belly, and the hook just within its mouth, which must be sewed up with some white thread. I have noticed this hook, and given a cut of 22 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. it, merely because they are become scarce, the hook being generally rejected by all experienced Trollers of the present day, as not worth notice. DEAD SNAP WITH THREE HOOKS. THIS snap is fitted as follows: Take three hooks of the size No. 2, and tie them all together, back to back, firmly on one end of about twelve inches of strong gimp ; let the other end be formed in a loop, (see the Cut); then, having provided a dead-bait Fish, take your baiting needle, and hang the loop of the gimp to it ; then enter the point of the needle in the vent of the bait (but do not penetrate too deep in the body), and bring it out at its mouth: draw the gimp after, until the hooks lay at the bait-fish's vent ; then pass over the gimp a bead drop lead, and place it inside the bait's mouth, which must then be sewed up, and all is ready for fixing to the trolling line. Note: This snap should be baited with a large bait-fish, either a Roach or Dace, say from six to eight ounces weight, and in extensive pieces cf water which contain heavy Pike, especially at the time when the weeds are rotten or gone ; this snap, so baited, will be found very effective, and worthy the Angler's attention. DRAD SNAP HOOKS. 23 DEAD SNAP WITH TWO HOOKS. FIT this snap in the following manner: Tie two hooks of the size No. 1, very firmly to about twelve inches of stout gimp, which should have a loop at the other end: now take a baiting needle, and fix it to the loop of the gimp, and enter the point of the needle into a large dead-bait-fish's vent ; but do not penetrate too deep in its body, for when so, and you strike, the hooks are somewhat confined, and do not fix so firmly in the Jack or Pike as if they laid nearer the skin, which is torn a\vay with a strong jerk in striking ; bring it out at its mouth, and fix the lead in the bait's mouth, and sew the same up, (as described in the preceding article, baiting with three hooks;) and all is then ready to fastea to the trolling-line. (See the Hooks, and the same baited in the Cut.) Now, having described various, and as many hooks, with the best way to bait them for killing Jack and 24 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. Pike as I think are worth notice, I shall next direct the reader how to choose the trolling line, rod, winch, &c. ; also, discourse on the nature of bait-fish for Jack and Pike-fishing, pointing out the reason why a Gudgeon should be preferred (generally) to a Roach, Dace, or Bleak, for trolling with the gorge-hook, or for live-bait- fishing; also, when Eoach, Dace, or Bleak are useful baits, with full directions to select the same, in respect to size, and to keep them alive during a day's fishing; or to preserve those which are dead, fresh and sweet when going a distance from home, either to troll with the gorge, or snap fishing; for which purpose, a proper bait-kettle and box are recommended. TROLLING TACKLE 25 CHAP. V. No. l.Bank Runner. No. 2. Multiplying Winch. No. 3. Thumb Winder. No. 4. Trace with three Swan Shot. No. 5. Trace, with Dip Lead. TROLLING LINES, WINCH, AND THUMB WINDERS, BANK RUNNERS, TRACES, ETC. TROLLING lines are usually made of silk, also of silk and hair, or mohair of various lengths and strength, by platting, spinning, or twisting several strands together. There are silk lines, called India twists, sold at the fishing-tackle shops, and at some of the china shops, and other shops in London. This India twist may be bought of any length and degree of strength, and fine- ness, at something less per yard than what is manu- factured in this country ; but it is much inferior in strength and value, because it is full of gum when you 26 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. first purchase it, and after some little wear and tear the gum is gone ; the line then soon untwists and be- comes rotten, therefore very unfit for Jack and Pike- fishing. The platted silk lines are the best for trolling, in every sense of the word ; they are stronger than those which are twisted. Let the twisted be made wholly of silk, or silk and hair, or mohair. Platted silk lines are also less inclined to kink or tangle than the twisted, which every Troller knows is of some consequence ; therefore my advice is to provide your- self with a platted silk line, (the colour immaterial,) made of about eight strands, and in length from fifty to sixty yards. If you wish to make your line water- proof, dress it in the following manner : lay the line in coils, in a large tumbler or basin, and pour as much cold-drawn double-boiled linseed oil on it as will cover the whole ; let it lay a few minutes, then take the end last put in, and gradually draw all the line out of the tumbler or basin, and pass it through or wipe it with a piece of woollen cloth or flannel, which will make the surface smooth, and the whole line will be alike saturated with the oil. Hang the line up for a few days in dry air, and it will then be fit for use. Note. Some Trailers think this dressing a line, causes it sooner to rot; but I am not of that opinion. I find a line so dressed is less likely to kinkle, or stick to the rod, than those without it, and also that the dressed line passes quicker through the rings when you make a cast, in consequence of its not imbibing much water, and from its being a little stiff: when choosing a TROLLING TACKLE. 27 winch, prefer one without a lock or stop, and also those which are made to tie on the rod, because you can tie on such to any sized joint or rod, or have them let in a groove and fastened by brass ferules, which is not the case with those made with a hoop and screw ; for if the rod be too large to pass through the hoop, or the hoop too large for the rod, much inconvenience is experien- ced : those made to tie on may also be fixed to the butt by brass ferules, which the tackle-makers provide. Some Anglers keep their line on a wooden thumb- winder, (see the Cut, fig. 3), and others use a bank runner, (see the Cut, fig. 1), for the same purpose ; but I prefer a winch, because I have my line and rod more compact, and it enables me to troll over high sags, rushes, bushes, &c. which are often met with about the sides of rivers, and large pieces of water ; and un- der the cover or shade of such places, Jack and Pike are often found. The Angler, having provided himself with line, winch, &c. should now fit up some traces, (see the Cut, figs. 4 and 5), or get his tackle-maker to do it for him in the following manner : take two pieces of gimp or twisted gut, about ten inches each in length, and join them together very neatly and strong, with a box swivel ; then tie at one end of the gimp a hook swivel, and at the other end make a loop of the gimp; observe the hook swivel should be made strong, particu- larly the hook part of it, because in putting on and oft the loop of gimp to which the hook or hooks are tied, Anglers from the hurry of the moment, some- 28 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. times use more violence than is necessary, and besides, when a heavy Fish is hooked, much stress is laid on this swivel while killing it. Note. For live-bait- fishing, a trace made of a foot of gimp, looped at one end, and a hook swivel on the other, answers as well as two swivel traces, and is more easily made and used. When you use a live-bait for Jack-fishing, and a float on the trolling line, and to which line you fix t races, those traces must be leaded so as to sink the float to a certain depth ; for which purpose you may use a dip-lead, or three or four swan shots ; the dip- lead or shot should be fixed just above the hook swivel, as represented in the Cut at the head of the Chapter, (see Cuts 4 and 5). When trolling with the gorge-hook, or snap-fishing with a dead bait, no lead is wanted on the traces, because the gorge-hook is leaded on the shank : and all hooks that are used, baited with a dead bait in snap-fishing, have a drop-lead attached to them, which may be seen by a reference to the Cuts of them in Chap. IV. I make it a rule always to have a spare trace or two in my tackle book ready fitted, of gimp and twisted gut, either for trolling, snap-fishing, or live-bait-fish- ing, that in case of accident, I may lose no time in repairing, &c. when at my sport, but leave that job for a rainy day at home. In the Summer months, when the waters get low and bright, from a continu- ance of dry weather, I have found, when I used traces made of the choicest twisted gut, instead of gimp TROLLING TACKLE. 29 and hooks also tied to twisted gut, that I have killed more Jack and Pike, either when trolling with the gorge, or when live-bait-fishing, than I could if I used gimp ; this, you are to observe, is only necessary during the Summer, when Jack and Pike are not much on the feed, or when the water is very bright ; they then seem shy of coarse tackle ; but not so in Winter and Spring, for then they are well on the feed, and the water gene- rally somewhat discoloured, at which time and seasons, I believe Jack and Pike would take a baited hook, if it was tied to a clothes' line or rope. Those Anglers who object to the trouble of fitting or using traces, may certainly kill both Jack and Pike without them, by simply fixing their baited hook-link to the trolling-line, either by looping, hanging it to a swivel, or by a draw-bow knot. The Angler who uses the knot, should be careful and examine his line frequently because the drawing and undrawing the said knot, soon injures the line, and at that part where much strength is wanted ; therefore, a few inches must be cut off" the line before it is too much used, or the Angler will probably lose a Jack or Pike, with hooks, gimp, &c. Swivels and traces enable the Troller to cause his bait to have a twirling or spinning motion, which frequently stimulates a Jack or Pike to strike at it; this particularly applies when a dead bait is used. Note : That traces made with the best salmon - gut, twisted, cause the bait to spin much better than if made of gimp, and are sufficiently strong to kill a Pike almost of any size ; and further observe, on 30 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. traces, that the play of the swivels also eases the stress on the rod while you are killing a heavy Fish. Note : If you live-bait-fish for Jack or Pike with a floated line, without traces, a dip-lead is better than shot to sink the float, because the float is first put on the trolling line, then the shot below it on the said line ; and when so done, you cannot get the float off again without the trouble of removing the shot, for they will not pass through either the ring or cap of the float ; but if you use a dip lead, it is put on the line and removed in an instant. Dip-leads are made of a long barrel shape, with a hole through them, and are kept ready for sale, of various sizes, by most of the fishing-tackle makers in London: but if those dip-leads are not easily to be met with, one or two small pistol- bullets, cast with a hole through them, will be found a good substitute, although they do not look quite so neat on the line as either split shot or dip-leads. The Angler will notice that I have directed the traces to be made of two pieces each, about ten inches long ; and also note, that the hooks used for live-bait fishing should be tied to lengths of gimp of eight or nine inches long ; because, if the traces and hook-lengths are longer, the float must be placed on the traces, which looks awk- ward and clumsy. In respect to traces used when trolling with the gorge, or at the snap, the length is immaterial. TROLLING RODS. 31 CHAP. VI: , -*W- RODS PROPER FOR TROLLING, OR JACK AND PIKE FISHING, AND HOW TO TROLL WITHOUT A ROD. A GOOD trolling-rod should be made of the choicest stout and well-seasoned bamboo cane ; in length it should not be shorter than fourteen feet ; but sixteen is more desirable, if your tackle-maker can furnish cane every way fit for the purpose of striking true, and not too heavy, yet sufficiently strong ; but if bamboo, of a sufficient length, &c. is not to be pro- cured, the tackle-makers use other light wood for the butt, generally well-seasoned^ willow ; those Anglers who are indifferent about the weight of a rod, may have them made of solid wood, in four joints, each measuring nearly a yard and a half; such trolling- rods will almost last for ever. When trolling with the gorge, or live-bait-fishing, a long rod is necessary, to enable the Angler to drop in his baited hook over high sags, rushes, &c. ; and also if the water is bright, he should then keep as far away from it as he possibly can, which a long rod enables him to do, while dipping, casting, or spinning his bait; for, if D 2 32 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. either a Jack or Pike see him, it is very rare indeed that he will then take the bait. And again, with a long rod you will be able to drop your baited hook in some very likely place for Jack or Pike to lay, such as a small hole, division, or clear place, among a bed of weeds, in a river, or any other water, where there are many weeds ; but if your rod be too short for that purpose your baited hook frequently falls short when cast, or among the weeds, instead of the open place, which you desire or wish it to fall into ; in such case, Jack or Pike are alarmed, and your chance of getting a run (a run, in Jack or Pike fishing, is a bite) is lost, and frequently the bait is spoiled or much injured, by catching or hanging to the weeds ; you then have to bait your hook afresh, losing time, &c. ; from which mishaps, you are, perchance, sometimes near losing your temper, forgetting that hope and patience support the Fisherman. There is some difference of opinion among Anglers about the number of rings necessary for trolling rods ; those who have their line on a thumb-winder, or on a bank-runner, seldom place more than two or three rings on their rod, and others have only a large ring at the top : but if a winch is used, there should be a ring to every joint, except the butt ; that is, fasten the winch to the butt, about a foot from the bottom, and let that joint be without a ring, and all the other joints, except the top, to have a ring, and each made of double brass wire, fixed so as always to stand out, and nearly large enough to admit the top of your TROLLING RODS. 33 little finger ; the top joint should have two rings ; the top one nearly three times the size of the other. (See the cut, Chap. VI. of a Trolling Rod, Line, and Traces with gorge hook baited?) This prevents any obstruc- tion to the line running, which is of material conse- quence. I have two tops to my trolling rod, which I always carry with me, in case of breaking one, &c. : one is made very flexible, with wood, and a whalebone tip, about two feet long ; to this, for strength and security, I have a ring on the wood part as well as the large one at the whalebone tip : this top I always use when trol- ling with the gorge-bait, or when fishing with live-bait; the other top is made wholly of stout whalebone, about one foot long ; this I only use when snap-fishing, which it is well calculated for, by its superior strength and stiffness. Those Anglers who may object to have such large rings as I have described fastened on their rods, so as always to stand out instead of laying close to the rod, because they prevent the several joints packing one within another, and, consequently augment the bulk to be carried, going to and from trolling, can have such rings, if they prefer them to those which lay close, fixed to metal ferules, made to fit each joint of the rod, which they may carry in their pocket, and put them on or off at the commencement, and leaving off trolling or Jack-fishing, except the top joint, wlu'ch, with the rings on, will pack in the butt or largest joint of the trolling rod, or, by using such rings and ferules, a Roach- rod may be used for trolling, leaving out the weak top 34 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. joint. Some Anglers use a few small brass curtain- rings sewed to loops of leather, and pass the loop over each joint of a stout walking-cane rod, made with long joints, and without rings, the rings hanging outwards, through which rings the trolling line runs ; these leather loops are made in a similar manner to those which you may see in the fishing-tackle shops, passed over, as the means of keeping together, the several joints of hazel and other common fishing rods. There are a few Anglers who troll from the shore without a rod, only using a pole or stick, with a forked top; they carry their line on a bank-runner or a hand- winder: after baiting the hook and letting out a proper length of line, they then pass the fork of the stick or pole under the line, about a yard above the baited hook, and cast out in search, and occasionally use the said fork to hoist the line over, &c. the high sags, sedges, rushes, or whatever else may impede their progress. This mode of Jack or Pike-fishing can be resorted to by an Angler who may beat a water which promises sport, and he, unfortunately, is without a proper rod; unless this happens, I think few Anglers would so troll or fish for Jack or Pike; but, when trolling from a boat, this method of Jack-fishing is, in some cases, certainly useful, and can be then more conveniently practised. Having discoursed, I hope, both plainly and suffi- ciently on hooks, lines and rods, I shall now proceed to direct the reader how to select the best and most proper baits for trolling or Jack-fishing, during the different seasons of the year. BAITS FOR TROLLING. CHAP VII. BAITS FOR TROLLING AND JACK-FISHING. THE Fish which Jack and Pike chiefly feed on, are Gudgeons, Roach, Dace, Bleak, Minnows, and small Trout, and Chub ; they will certainly take any other sort of Fish, Tench excepted; (see the reason for this opinion, in the observations on Jack, &c. in Chap. X.) and they will even feed on their own species, and, occa. sionally attack the Perch, notwithstanding its formi- dable back fin. But when the Angler can get a sufficient number of Gudgeons, Roach, or Dace, of a proper size, either alive or very fresh, to bait his hook with, he may rest assured that he possesses the best baits for trol- ling or Jack-fishing that the waters produce. Among those three choice baits, the Gudgeon is the most useful, either for trolling with the gorge-hook, or in live-bait fishing; for, in trolling, the Gudgeon spins better in the water, from the rotundity of its shape, than Roach or Dace, and it is also thicker in its body, and, therefore, the Jack or Pike, when they strike at it, are not so likely to feel the lead in its belly or throat; the Gudgeon is also a very clean-feeding Fish, and is always so sweet, or well flavoured, that the experienced Angler knows when Jack or Pike strike a Gudgeon; they less seldom blow it out of their mouths again instead of pouching it, than any other bait. The same reason holds in respect to live-bait fishing ; moreover 36 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. Gudgeons will swim stronger, and live longer on the hook than other Fish, and also keep low in the water; whereas Eoach, Dace, and particularly Bleak, endea- vour to reach or swim near the surface of the water; and if the Jack or Pike follows and sees the Angler, he generally refuses the bait and retires. The next best bait, I consider, is a Roach, and, dur- ing the months of January, February, and March, I use it in preference to a Gudgeon : the best size to choose a Gudgeon, Roach, or Dace, for trolling with the gorge or in live-bait fishing for Jack or Pike, is about five or six inches in length ; but when you go snap-fishing, a larger bait is preferable, because Jack or Pike will frequently seize a large bait, though they will not pouch it, which is a losing game for the gorge Troller, or live-bait Fisher; but not so with the snap Angler, because, the instant the Jack or Pike strikes his bait, the Angler, with a strong jerk, fixes the hook into either Pike or Jack, and as a large bait is most attract- ing, of course the snap Fisher should prefer it to a small one. The next bait in value to Gudgeons and Roach, are Dace and Bleak; if you cannot procure any of those four baits, you may take any small Fish (Tench ex- cepted) you can procure, and with any of them you may kill Jack or Pike. But, note : if you ever use a Jack for a bait, it should not exceed half a pound in weight ; and if you bait your hook with a Perch, be sure to cut away the dorsal fin very close to the back before you begin fishing with it. I have killed Jack BAITS FOR TROLLING. 37 in the ponds in Tilney Park, Wanstead, by baiting snap- hooks with a Smelt, and also with a Sprat ; this has happened in the winter months, at which season Jack and Pike are much distressed for food in ponds; and I have been told they have been killed by baiting with a small sized fresh herring: of which I doubt not. Jack are also sometimes taken in ponds, and other still waters, (but seldom in rapid rivers) by baiting with a dead frog; to do which, put the loop of the gimp into the frog's mouth, and draw it out at its tail, exactly the same as if it were a fish-bait ; then draw the hook (which should be a small gorge-hook) close to the mouth, and tie its hind legs to the gimp, and all is ready to fix to the trolling-line. If you use a frog for live-bait-fishing, with a float, use a single No. 4 or 5 hook, and fix it through the frog's lips, or by the skin of its rump, the frog then will live a long time in the water, and swim strong. If a frog is used for a snap- bait, hook it through the skin on the back, and strike soon after the float disappears. Trusting the reader is now made sufficiently ac- quainted with the materials for Trolling, I shall imme- diately proceed to the practical part of the art of taking Jack and Pike, with rod, line, and hook : but, first, let me inform the London Angler, that the places most to be depended upon for purchasing live Gudgeons, Min- nows, &c. are Mr. Jacobs, Fishmonger, No. 30, Duke Street, Aldgate ; and Mr. Holmes's Fishing-tackle shops, No. 123, Fetter Lane, and No. 34, King Street, Covent Garden. 38 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. CHAP. VIII. THE TROLLER S DAY; ACCOMPANIED WITH DIRECTIONS HOW AND WHERE TO PLACE THE WINCH ON THE ROD TO CAST THE BAITED GORGE-HOOK TO TAKE JACK OR PIKE TO LAND AND UNHOOK THEM, ETC. ABOUT ten o'clock, the latter end of the month of October, 1818, the weather being very favourable for trolling, and the water of a good colour, I walked to the river Lea; where, by appointment, I met a young Angler, with a haversack slung over his shoulder, a trolling-rod under his arm, and, in his pocket, a book of trolling-tackle (See the Cut, jig. 2. chap. 1), con- sisting of hooks of various sizes, baiting needles, silk, thread, a disgorger, scissors, &c.; also a box, with half-a-dozen bait-fish in it, well sprinkled with bran ; and inside his jacket (on the left hand side) he had placed a landing-hook (the point of which was stuck fast into a cork, to prevent it accidentally injuring THE TROLLER S DAY. 41 him. in case of a slip or fall), fixed to a telescope- jointed rod. Some Anglers hang the hook through a button-hole, on the left-hand side of their coat or jacket, always taking care to secure the point from injuring them; My young friend was waiting very anxiously for my arrival. On looking at my watch, I found it not yet quite the time we agreed to meet ; however, perceiving his impatience to wet a line, I spent but little time in complimenting him on the punctuality of his keeping the time agreed on to meet, and on his having all the necessary tackle, bait-fish, &c. in the best order, but immediately directed him to pro- ceed in the following manner : First, put your rod together, fix the joints one within the other firmly : and mind, while so doing, that the rings on the different joints are in a direct line with each other to the large ring at the top : by which means, the line from the winch will then run in a straight direction, consequently, much more free than if the rings were in a zig-zag or crooked line. Now fix the winch about ten inches up the butt of the rod, in a line with the rings on the other joints, and draw some of the line from the winch, passing it through every ring, and out of the top large one. Continue to draw as much line out, as about half the length of the rod to the end of the line, and now fasten your trace to the trolling line ; that is right ; all very well. Next, bait a gorge-hook, in the following manner: take a baiting-needle and hook; tie the curved end of it to the loop of the gimp (to which 42 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. the hook is tied), then introduce the point of the needle into the bait-fish's mouth, and bring it out at the middle of the fork part of its tail ; the lead will then be hid inside the bait's belly, and the shank of the hook will lie inside its mouth, the barbs and points outside, turning upwards. To keep the bait steady on the hooks, tie the tail part of it just above the fork to the gimp, with white thread ; or through the flesh, about half an inch above the tail, encircling the gimp, the thread passing under and over it, and then fix it to the hook swivel of the trace, and all will be ready for casting in search of Jack or Pike, (See the Cut, Chap. VI}. Now, take the rod in your right hand, grasping it just above the winch, (See the Cut of Trolling with the gorge\ and rest the butt end of it against the lower side of your stomach, or the upper part of your thigh, and with your left hand draw a yard more of the trolling line from the winch, which you must hold lightly, until, with a jerk from the right arm, you cast the baited hook in the water. When the jerk is given, let the line which you hold in the left hand pass from its hold gradually, that the baited hook may not be checked, when cast out, by holding the line too fast ; or that it may fall short of where you wish to place it, which it will do, if you let go of it altogether, immediately you have made a jerk, or cast it from the right arm. By noticing these observations, and with a little practice, you may, without labour, cast a baited hook to many yards distance, and almost to an inch of the THE TROLLER'S DAY. 43 spot you think likely to harbour a Jack or Pike. Many Anglers troll with the rod held in their hand, instead of letting the butt end rest against them ; but they cannot cast out their baited hook, when so carry- ing the rod, with so much precision, nor with so little exertion, as those who rest it against their stomach or thigh. Now you have every thing ready, cast in the baited-hook just over and beyond those candock weeds ; let the bait sink, nearly to touching the bot- tom j now draw it gradually upwards, till it is near the surface of the water ; let it sink again ; now draw it upwards, and also a little to the right and left ; let it sink again, and draw it up slowly, and step back a little from the water, and gradually draw the bait nearer the shore : all very fair, but no luck ; the next cast-in-search, throw a few yards further out : very well ; draw and sink, as before, to the right and left, &c. ; but yet, I see, you cannot move a Fish. We will try another place. Ay, here is a likely place, on my word, to find a Fish ! Observe, the sags and rushes are very thick, and reach nearly all round this bend or bay of the river ; and I see there are a few weeds, but they do not appear very strong, and the current and eddy is only strong enough to keep the water lively. Now put on a fresh bait, a choice one. Ah ! let me see ; threadle this Gudgeon ; I think this spot deserves every attention. Now cast in your bait, about two yards beyond those sags, directly where I stand. Very well ; that is a neat and fair throw ; draw up slowly and carefully. Something has snatched or pulled you E 2 44 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. line violently, you say ? Bravo ! you have a run : lower the point of your rod towards the water, and, at the same time, draw the line, with your left hand, gra- dually from the winch, that nothing may impede the line from running free, or check the Jack or Pike; either one or the other of which, at a certainty, has taken your baited hook. Ah ! the Fish stops ; I see he has not run more than two yards of line out, there- fore you found him at home. Now, by my watch, I see he has laid still seven minutes very well ; but have a little more patience. Oh ! now I see the line shakes ; all is right. Ah ! he moves he runs ! wind up the slack line, turn the rod, that the winch may be uppermost instead of underneath, and strike, but not violently ; and keep the point of your rod a little raised, for I have no doubt, by his laying so long still, that he has got the hook safe enough in his pouch : he makes towards the middle of the river, and seems inclined to go up the stream. You say he feels heavy and swims low ; all is right again ; believe me, he is a good Fish : I see there are some very strong can- dock-weeds a-head, and he appears desirous of gaining them ! try and turn him, by holding your rod to the left instead of the right, and lead him back to the place from whence he started. That is still fortunate, he turns kindly : ah ! now he strikes off again ; very well, let him go; now, wind him again : again he is off; steady, steady ; mind your line ; do not distress it by keeping it too tight on your Fish. Now he makes shorter journeys, and seems inclined to come in THE TROLLER'S DAY. 4f shore. Very well, you may now wind, and hold a little tighter on him, and feel if he will allow you to raise and show him ; but be collected and careful. That is well done ! I see, he is a Fish worth bagging; but keep steady, and have your line all free, for he will, for a short time, be more violent than ever. Try and lead him down to yon opening, at which place, I see, the water is nearly on a level with the marsh (a famous place, indeed, to land a Fish, especially if the Angler is alone, and without a landing hook); he seems a good deal weakened, yet the danger is not all passed. Now draw him nearer the shore, and again raise and give him a little fresh air. Ah ! now he is angry and growing desperate ; but keep steady, for I think we are all right. See, how he extends his monstrous jaws, showing his nume- rous teeth, red gills, and capacious throat. Observe, how he shakes his head, and flings himself over and out of the water, as if he was determined to break 46 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. and destroy the strongest tackle ; but steady ; keep all clear and free. Now bring him near the shore again, still he shakes himself violently, and has thrown ano- ther somerset in the air ; it is all very well! Give him a few turns more, and he will be tame enough; now draw him close in shore. I see he is quite exhausted, and floats motionless on his side ; hold his head a little up, that the jaws or gills do not touch or hang to a weed. That is it. Now grasp him with both hands just below the head and shoulders, behind the gills, and hoist or chuck him a few yards on the grass. Well done, and a handsome Fish you have got for your pains; it is a female Pike, I see, and in excellent condition, and I believe it weighs eight pounds, at least. Now, my boy, bag the Fish, and put on another baited hook ; for, I would have you recollect, it frequently happens, that you will find a brace of Pike in such a place as this, of a similar size, though of different sexes. After a few throws, my young Angler had another run, and was fortunate enough to kill the Fish, which proved a male Pike, seemingly within half a pound weight of the female. During the remainder of this day's trolling, we bagged a third Fish about four pounds weight: I then said, Enough; do not distress the water. We then withdrew to a comfortable inn, on the river side, for refreshment; and while taking our wine, and at other opportunities, I gave him further information on Trolling and Jack-fishing, which the reader will find in this and the following Chapters. TROLLING. 47 TROLLING CONTINUED. When trolling for Jack or Pike, make it a rule to keep as far from the water as you can, and always commence by casting in search near the shore side, with the wind at your back ; but if the water and weather is very bright, fish against the wind. After trying closely, make your next throw further in the water, and draw and sink the baited hook, by pulling and casting the line with your left hand, while raising and lowering the rod with your right, drawing it straight upwards, near the surface of the water, and also to the right and left, searching carefully every foot of water, and draw your bait against and across the stream, which causes it to twirl or spin ; and then, 48 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. by its glistening, &c. in the water, it is sure to attract and excite either Jack or Pike to seize it ; and note, when the water is very bright, it is absolutely necessary that your tackle should be of the finest and neatest sort: and that you draw and spin the baited hook smartly and quickly against and across the stream, or you will not be successful, for coarse tackle, and merely sinking and drawing at such times, will not do. Be particularly careful, in drawing up or taking the baited hook out of the water, not to do it too hastily, because you will find, by experience, that the Jack or Pike strike or seize your bait more frequently when you are drawing it upwards, than when it is sinking. And, also, further observe, that when draw- ing your bait slowly upwards, if you occasionally lightly shake the rod, it will cause the bait to spin and twirl about, which, as before observed, is very likely to attract either Jack or Pike. In the bends of rivers, and those parts out of the rapid current, Jack and Pike generally lay, and also where there are many weeds; and when you find a hole or opening between them, then cautiously drop in your baited hook ; and if you feel, in this or any other place, a sudden tug or snatch, (which is a bite or run,) give line, as before directed; and when the Jack or Pike ceases to take or run out your line and lay still, do not strike in less time than ten minutes after, for, if you strike too soon, you have little chance; but if the Jack or Pike has pouched, he cannot get away, if he is not struck for an hour after he has TROLLING* 49 taken the bait ; but if they shake the line and move, after they have remained still about two or three minutes, you may conclude the Fish has pouched the bait, and feels the hooks; then wind up your slack line, and strike, but not violently; and always mind to keep the point of your rod a little raised, while you are play- ing and killing your Fish. On the other hand, if you have a run, and the Fish lays still for a minute or so, and moves a little way and stops, and perhaps moves a third time, do not strike, for he has not yet pouched; but let him remain ten minutes, for, perhaps, he may be disturbed by a larger Fish making his appearance, and, in consequence, he first endeavours to get away, fearing the larger will dispossess him of his prey; there- fore, in such cases, it is the safest way to give time, or put on a snap-hook. When you have a run, and the Fish lays still, and you are disposed to lay your rod down, be careful so to place it, that nothing can impede the winch and line acting freely, and stand handy to act as circumstances may require ; for, sometimes, a heavy Fish, when he feels the hook, will make a sudden and most violent rush towards the middle, or up the river ; and, in an instant, rod, winch, and all, are drawn into the water, or the line broken. When you have hooked or played a Fish until he is quite weakened, and there are high sags or rushes before you, in which he will endeavour to entangle himself, or you are on a high bank, the safest way to land yoiir prize then is, by fixing a landing hook in him 50 THE TROLLER S GUIDE. either through his lips, or under his lower jaw; be- cause, while weighing out, or lifting up a heavy Fish, and he is slightly hooked, perhaps in the brittle part of his throat, mouth, or gills, the hook will tear from its hold, or, if he struggles, he is very likely to break either rod or line ; or, probably, his pouch may draw out, and you thereby lose your prize ; therefore you should always carry a hook of this kind with you. The most portable are those made to screw into a jointed telescope-rod, (see the Cut in Chap. I.) which all the principal fishing-tackle shops keep ready for sale ; and as sometimes you may want to increase the length of this, you should have the end of it made of a size to fit in the two strongest joints of your trolling-rod. Some Trailers carry, also, a large-sized landing-net with them, the worm or screw of which is made to fit the landing-hook rod; for, when a net can be conveniently used, I think it much the safer way ; and, as the nets are placed on jointed hoops, they take up but little room, either in the pocket or elsewhere, therefore it is advisable to carry both hook and net. You may carry this landing hook very conveniently slung to the inside of your jacket or coat, on the left side thereof, having a narrow long pocket made to receive it ; or hanging from, or through a button-hole, only taking special care to prevent an accident, by securing the point in a stout piece of cork. Observe, when Trolling, Live-bait-fishing, or Snap- fishing, you should bait the hook the last thing; that is, after you have put the rod, line, &c. together, TROLLING. 51 because it is essential to offer the Jack or Pike a bait exceedingly fresh and sweet; also, make it a rule to put a fresh bait on when you find the present one is torn, or becomes water-sopped ; and be careful to remove any piece of weed, &c. that may have hung to a bait, before you cast in again, for Jack or Pike will seldom take a stale or sopped bait, nor one on which hang weeds, grass, or any thing else. When you go for a day's trolling with the gorge, provide a tin box, suffi- ciently large to hold six Fish-baits lying at their full length, and put under, between, and over them, some clean bran, which will absorb the moisture from their bodies, and keep them sweet for a long time ; and they will also remain longer firm and stiff. I gene- rally use a square tin box, with hinges and a slip clasp, of the following dimensions, viz. from seven to eight inches long, about five inches broad, and two deep : the inside of the box should be divided into three or four parts by slips of tin that fall into grooves, (See the Out}. By placing the baits in those divisions, it keeps them straight ; and by sprinkling them well with bran, the baits will keep of their natural shape, and remain sweet. The Troller, who takes the trouble so to pre- serve his baits, will find his success greatly exceed those who carelessly wrap their bait-fish up in paper ; the box for baits should be japanned, otherwise it soon becomes rusty, and then requires much trouble to keep it in a clean state, fit to receive bait-fish. Note : A large-sized Sandwich box, (sold at all the principal tin-shops), with the addition of the sliding partitions, 52 THE TROLLERS GUIDE. makes an excellent bait-box. By taking out those partitions, the box is easily cleaned, which should always be done immediately after you return from trolling. When I have been obliged to start early in a morn- ing from town to a distance, for a day's trolling, I have packed my baits the last thing over night, and sprinkled them with a little salt, as well as with bran, and thought it kept them longer, and in a better state for use. When you are trolling with the gorge,, you will find that either Jack or Pike will sometimes take your bait eagerly, and hold it several minutes by its body across their mouth, (See the Cut ;) and then throw, drop, or Jack taking a bait. blow it from them, instead of pouching it. You, pos- sibly try another kind of bait, and cast it in again ; you have a run, but you are disappointed ; the Jack or Pike will not pouch the bait, but drop it : when this occurs, LANDING JACK OR PIKE. 53 you may be assured the Fisb are more on the play than on the feed. This being the case, convert your gorge to a snap, in the manner directed in Chap. IV. the dead-snap with four hooks, and you will generally succeed in taking or killing the tantalizer. Note : Among my trolling-tackle, I always carry with me two or three pieces of stick, from two to three inches long, to use as a gag when I have hooked either Jack or Pike in the throat ; I can then easily get my hook away without cutting or disfiguring the Jack or Pike, (supposing the hook to be a favourite one, and I prefer using it to any other), by gagging or propping his mouth open with a piece of stick. I can then, with a disgorger about nine or ten inches long, (which you may have made either of ivory, brass, or iron, for the common bone-disgorgers are not long enough for the Troller's purpose), get away the hook, and save my fingers from the Fish's teeth ; but if the Jack or Pike has pouched it, the better way then to unhook him is to make an opening in his belly, near the throat, and carefully cut away the parts to which the hooks hang, and draw the hooks and gimp out of the opening. If this operation is done neatly, and it is very easy so to do with a sharp-pointed knife, the Jack or Pike will be very little disfigured. In landing heavy Jack or Pike, it is best to use a landing hook, or to grasp them firmly with both hands just below the gills ; for, though it is generally recom- mended to press your thumb and finger in their eyes, and so lift them, yet I have known many instances of 54 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. good Fish being lost by this method ; for, if they struggle much, very few can hold them by a thumb and finger, which is placed in the socket of the Pike's eye. This method does very well with small Jack ; but even those I have seen dropped and lost by the momentary alarm caused by the Jack (which seemed quite exhausted), suddenly gasping, twisting, and struggling. "When Jack-fishing with a winch attached to a Rod, cast out your bait with the winch hanging under your hand, as represented in the plate of Trol- ling ; because, when the rod is so held, the line rests wholly upon the rings, and runs free, which it will not always do if held the reverse way, especially when the line becomes wet, as it is then apt to stick to the rod, &c. ; but when you have a run, and are about to strike, turn the rod, that the winch may be uppermost, because the weight, &c. of the Fish, while you are playing him, will be then on the rod ; but if the winch is underneath, the whole rests on the rings, some of which may probably break away from the whipping and entangle the line, or chafe it, so as to endanger the loss of the Jack or Pike you have hooked. LIVE-BAIT FISHING. CHAP. IX. FULL DIRECTIONS FOR TAKING JACK AND PIKE WITH A LIVE-BAIT AND FLOATED LINE PROPER KET- TLES, ETC. FOR CARRYING LIVE-BAITS DESCRIBED VARIOUS WAYS OF USING SNAP-HOOKS EXPLAINED AND THE PROPER SEASONS AND WEATHER, ETC. FOR TROLLING, POINTED OUT. WHEN you intend going to Live -bait Fish for Jack and Pike, you should adjust your tackle in the follow- ing manner : first, fix a winch to the rod, and draw the line through the rings thereof, as directed in the preceding article, (trolling with the gorge-hook), and then put the cork float on the trolling-line. I prefer a cork without either a plug or quill, in place of which I use a piece of ivory, lance wood, or whale-bone, to keep the line in its place, after having passed it through the cork ; for which purpose, put the piece of ivory, F 2 56 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. or whalebone, in the hole, at the top of the cork, by way of a plug, and only let about a quarter of an inch appear above the cork. I have found the large-sized cribbage-pegs, made of ivory, and sold at the toy-shops, the best thing for the purpose. By this contrivance the float is considerably shortened, which is also of conse- quence ; because, when a Jack has taken your bait, and retires among weeds to pouch it, a long float often gets entangled therein, and checks or alarms the Jack, and he then drops the bait, instead of pouching it. A float of the size that will swim with about half an ounce of lead, and a bait-fish of five or six inches in length, will be found, generally speaking, the most use- ful ; but when very small baits are used, and twisted gut instead of gimp, a smaller float will be requisite: then take the traces, (which are described in Chap. V.) fasten the line to the traces with a bow-draw knot ; and, after having baited your hook, fix that to the hook-swivel of the traces, and all is ready to cast in search. Cork-floats sold at the tackle-shops are all bored through ; therefore, if you choose to use them with a plug, as I have recommended and de- scribed above, you have only to remove the quill at the top, and the plug at the bottom, and you have then a cork fit for the purpose. When the float is fixed at a proper distance from the baited hook, which as a general rule, observe, that it should be something less than three feet ; but in very shoal water, or where there are many weeds, wo feet above the hook will be a more proper distance CAST THE BAIT. 57 to fix the float ; and in no case do I ever find or think it right to fix the float above the baited hook at a greater distance than between three and four feet. If you choose to fish without traces, adjust the line, float, and baited hooks this way : first, put the float on the line ; next put a dip-lead, or as many swan-shot on the li ne as is proper for the size of the float : dip- leads are to be preferred, because they are put on and off in an instant ; (See Dip-Leads described in Chap. F.) whereas, it takes some time to put the shot on the line, and more to take them off" again, which must be done, otherwise you cannot remove the float from the line, because the shot will be found toe large to pass through the ring at the bottom of the float, or the cap at the top. Now, all this trouble and delay is obviated by using a dip-lead, or the traces fitted with swivels, &c. as described in Chap. V. However, whether traces, dip-lead, or shot, are used, I will suppose the hooks to be baited in the manner described in the se- cond article, (Chap. III. and the Cut, Jig. 2.) and the float fixed in its proper place, &c. and the Angler at the water side, having, if possible, the wind at his back; he must hold his line and rod exactly as described in the preceding article, (trolling with the gorge-hook,) and as represented in the cut at the head of this Chap- ter, excepting the hand represented as grasping the rod above the winch ; but it may be held below the winch in live-bait fishing, if the Angler finds it more convenient to manage. Cast your bait in very gently, and near the shore 58 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. first, always standing as far back from the water as you can, being able at the same time to see your float ; if, after a few minutes, you have no success, advance a little nearer, and make another cast further in the water, or to the right or left. If the bait be Lively, it will swim strong about, and make for the weeds, and there entangle itself, which you must prevent by draw- ing it gently away, but not out of the water. When the bait-fish becomes weak, which you will discover by the float not bobbing about much, you should draw him gently to and fro, at the same time, shaking your rod a little, which will sometimes stimulate a Jack to seize it, fearing it is making its escape; though, while it is stationary, the Jack is seldom in a hurry about it, which proves the advantage of strong lively baits over the weak and languid : cast in search in all the bends, bays, and still parts of rivers, and in ponds, pools, &c., and also near and among beds of candock weeds, rushes, sedges, and retired places, in preference to rapid cur- rents or whirling eddies, for such unsettled places Jack and Pike like not. Observe, when you take your bait out of the water to cast it into another place, that you may draw it slowly and gradually to the surface for that purpose, and not snatch it out; because Jack and Pike, when not very much on the feed, will only strike at the bait when it seems to be escaping from them : those who take their line out without the above caution, will often find a Jack strike at their bait, and, in their eagerness, some- times throw themselves out of the water after it ; but WHEN TO STRIKE. 59 by the quick movement of the Angler, the Jack seldom hits the bait ; and if he does, he is generally so alarmed that he drops it again immediately. This fact is well known to old Anglers. When a Jack or Pike seizes your live-bait, it is generally with violence, and the float is instantly drawn under water ; therefore, be sure to keep your eye steadily on it, and also keep your winch and line free, always holding a yard or two of slack line in your left hand, that nothing may stop or impede the Jack or Pike when he has seized the bait, and is making for his haunt to pouch it: if he run very violently, keep drawing the line from the winch with your left hand, that he may not be checked; when he has got to the desired place, and then lays still, do not disturb him in less time than ten minutes after he has so hud; or if you give him a little longer time, it may not be amiss ; for you are to know that when a Jack has got the baited hook in his pouch, he cannot possibly get it out again ; but if you strike before he has so done, you generally pull the bait from his mouth without the hook touching him ; therefore, the only chance of losing either Jack or Pike after they have taken the bait is, in not giving them time enough to pouch it, supposing them to be disposed to pouch; but, on the contrary, when you have a run, and the Jack or Pike goes some distance, and stops a few moments, then moves again, stops a few moments as before, and a third time moves his quarters, you must not expect he will pouch, for he is then more on the play than on 60 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. the feed; or there are larger Jack or Pike about the spot, that prevents the one which has taken your bait from stopping, for fear of the stronger taking his prey from him. However, it may be, when such a case occurs, as sometimes it will, with the third movement, wind up your line, and strike smartly the contrary way the Jack runs, and you may probably hook him in the chaps, throat, or gills; or you may change the hook, and use a snap with a live-bait, when you find the Fish will not pouch. Further: recollect, when you have a run, and the Jack or Pike remains still, (after having taken the bait and gone a certain distance) for three minutes or more, and then shakes and tugs the line and moves away, wind up the slack line and strike, but not with much force; because, you will find, if either a Jack or Pike has laid still for three minutes or more, and then becomes restless, he has pouched the bait, (which they sometimes do the moment they take it,) and begins to feel the hooks. When you have hooked a Fish while live-bait-fishing, act as directed with the gorge-hook, that is, do not strain on him too hard ; keep him from heavy weeds and dangerous places as much as you can ; and lastly, when bringing him (either Jack or Pike) to a conve- nient place for landing, and he becomes very quiet, be prepared to expect he will, when almost in your hands, make some desperate plunges, shaking his head, opening his mouth, shewing his red gills, &c. Pre- pare for this probable case with coolness; and when such occurs, let Mr. Jack or Pike have a few TROLLING. 61 more turns in his own element; and when he again becomes tractable, you may be more sanguine of bag- ging him. You are to note, that many very heavy Fish are lost through the anxiety of getting them on shore, and especially at the time the violent strug- gling takes place, which I have described ; for then the Troller should yield to the Fish ; but, on the con- trary, the young Angler redoubles his efforts to drag the unwilling Fish on shore; but he frequently, by using such improper force, either breaks his tackle or draws the pouch out of the Jack or Pike's stomach, and of course, in either case, loses his prize. If you fish with one hook fixed to the bait's gills, in the man- ner described in Chap. III. fig. 1, you must pursue the same method as described in respect to giving the Jack or Pike time to pouch the bait when you have a run; but if you use a single hook, or three or five hooks, as described in Chap. III. fig. 1, 3, and 4, you then fish at snap ; and instead of giving time to pouch, when you see your float taken down by a Jack or Pike having seized your live bait, observe which way he goes, and after he has run a yard or so of line out, strike him with a lusty stroke, that some of the hooks may get a firm hold ; then play, kill, and land him, secundum artem. Note. .When fishing with those one, three, or five hooks, just described, you may fix the necessary weight of shot or lead on the gimp, to which the hooks are tied, if you prefer it to putting them on the traces or trolling line, because you put on and off those hooks to the traces or line, the gimp not 62 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. passing under the skin of the bait-fish, as must be done when the hooks are threadled, or lay on the side or shoulder of the bait, as represented in the Cut, fig. 2, Chap. III.; for if the gimp be leaded, and drawn under the bait's skin, it rips nearly all the flesh of the bait, which is much disfigured, and soon dies. When you go out for a day's live-bait-fishing, you should take about a dozen live Fish with you, princi- pally Gudgeons, if you can procure them ; because Gudgeons are a hardy strong Fish, swim well, and will bear more rough usage than any other bait-fish. Se- lect all your baits from four and a half, to about five and a half inches in length, but not larger ; and put them into a full-sized kettle, which should be painted or japanned white inside, that you may easily select the bait you like without hurting the others; frequently, during your excursion, give them fresh water, and place the kettle out of the sun, or in the water, where you can conveniently get to it, and let it there remain till you move or want a bait. I have found, that in putting my hand in the kettle, the bait-fish therein struggle and bounce about, and by so doing, rub their scales off, and otherwise injure each other ; therefore I have a very small net, not much more than half the size of those used to take gold and silver Fish out of globes, &c. This net I carry very conveniently in my fish-kettle, by having a piece of the lid cut away at one corner, where a few inches of the handle of the net projects; but, instead, of the hole at the corner, I have found since a kettle THE BEST BAITS. 0.5 with a rim, about an inch wide, fixed all round the upper part of the inside of the kettle, prevents the water from splashing out better than any other way particularly if you are going any distance, and have to carry your live-baits either for Jack or Perch fish- ing. When I use such a kettle, I carry the net in my basket or pocket. By using this net, I select which bait I may think proper, without much disturbing the others, or distressing them, by putting a hot hand among those cool-blooded animals. I prefer a longish square kettle to a round one, and always have mine japanned white inside and brown out ; for the water is less agitated in such a shaped kettle, when you are carrying it, than in a round one ; and it is more con- venient to carry, or to pack in a basket, &c. for a journey (See the Cut in the first Chapter, Jig. 1 .) than those of a round form. Observe, that you make it a rule to bait your hook the last thing, after all is complete in respect to float, line, &c. for the more lively and strong the bait swims, the greater the chance you have of a run, and the Fish pouching, instead of blowing it out ; which, sometimes, is the case when Jack or Pike are not much on the feed, and the bait-fish not very lively or tempting. Also, recollect, that when trolling with the gorge, the snap, or live-bait-fishing in a place very likely for Jack or Pike to lay, do not leave after a throw or two, especially if you have seen a Fish move there at any former day, or if you have had a ruu in this place, and the Jack or Pike left your bait without G 64 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. pouching ; but continue to cast and fish every foot of water for a considerable time, and if not successful, try the same place on your return, or, as the gunner says, try back. SNAP-FISHING FOR JACK OR PIKE WITH DEAD BAITS. When you intend using snap-hooks, with dead baits, for Jack or Pike fishing, it is better to have a very stout top on your rod, (such as recommended in Chap. IV.) because much strength is required in striking when you feel a run ; for it depends entirely upon the firm hold you have of the Fish, by one or more of the hooks having passed into or through some part of the Jack or Pike's gills, jaws, or some other part : your gimp and line should also be very stout. I have de- scribed various kinds of hooks, and how to bait them with a dead Fish, for snap-fishing, in Chap. IV. Draw the line from the winch through all the rings of the rod, as directed in trolling with the gorge ; loop on the traces (if you use traces) to the line, or fix them by a draw-knot, which you please ; then bait your hook or hooks, and hang the gimp to which they are tied on the hook-swivel, at the bottom of the trace, by the loop; if you do not use traces, then you loop the gimp to the trolling line, or fasten it thereto with a slip draw- knot, which ever you like. All is ready then to cast or throw in search of Jack or Pike ; but mind you hold the rod and line firmly grasped, that you may be en- abled, the instant you feel a touch, to strike quick and with force ; then proceed to play, and kill, and land WEATHER PROPER FOR TROLLING. 65 your prize, as directed in trolling with the gorge. Note. Carry several baits with you in a box, as directed in Chap. VIII. SEASONS AND WEATHER PROPER FOR TROLLING, AND HOW TO BRING JACK OR PIKE ASHORE. Jack and Pike will take a bait in every month du- ring the year, but seldom very freely till September or October, which is quite early enough in the season to troll ; because, though Jack or Pike spawn in March, yet they remain a long time after, very languid, weak, and sickly, and their bodies are long and thin, and their heads large, caring little for food until the cool morn- ings, evenings, and nights, of the Autumn approach ; they then rapidly recover their appetite and strength, and soon become fat and well flavoured, and are in the best state for the table, from Michaelmas till the middle of February. It is with real regret, that the true sporting or gentleman Angler puts his trolling tackle together before September ; but the misfortune is, that all the waters, within a considerable distance of London, are continually fished by poachers, and, in consequence of such practices, the different subscrip- tion waters allow trolling to commence in June or July. The Angler, from necessity, avails himself of this liberty to troll, because he argues, that he may as well kill a few Jack himself, as to pay an annual sum to a water, and leave them to the unfair Angler, who will kill all he can, and laugh, in his sleeve, at the other's forbearance. In September, the weeds, rushes, 66 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. &c. have lost their sweetness and nutritious proper- ties, and begin to grow thin, affording but little har- bour, shelter, and food, for Fish ; and, as the Winter approaches, those sedges, weeds, rushes, &c. rot, waste, and sink, or drift away with the floods ; during which time, small Fish, Gudgeons, especially, have left the shallows, and retired to deep holes under banks, shelves, piles, &c. which occasions Jack and Pike to be on the alert, finding much difficulty to satisfy their now ever-craving appetite. Therefore, at this season, every favourable day should be embraced by the lovers of trolling during the period above alluded to. Note. Jack and Pike will take a bait in March ; but as they are then very full, and their spawn being also very unfit for food, the gentleman- sportsman will surely then desist from trolling. The most favourable weather for trolling, is when a smartish breeze blows from the South to West, and the day cloudy or dull ; at such times, keep the wind at your back, and the water in front : but if the water and weather be very bright, fish against the wind. From September to the beginning of November, Jack and Pike will take a bait best from ten o'clock till one, and again from three till dusk ; but after the nights become very long and cold, the Angler should then prefer the middle and warmest parts of the day ; for, at that season of the year, neither Jack or any other Fish will move much at any other time. Thick water is not favourable for trolling, for, during a flood, which causes a coloured water, Jack and Pike keep OBSERVATIONS ON JACK AND PIKE-FISHING. 07 very close in shore, among the sags, sedges, or rushes which lay near the banks, or in the still bends of rivers, to keep out of the heavy waters, and rapid currents* where they remain stationary until the waters clear and subside. The Angler, who then chooses to try for them, must troll close, even to the touching of those sags and rushes, &c. or he will seldom move a Fish ; but immediately the water clears, then comes the Troller's turn, for the Jack and Pike having been, for some time on short allowance, are then bold, voracious, and fearlessly take the baited hook. When you have hooked a Jack or Pike, and played him till he is quite exhausted, and you are drawing him ashore, make it a rule to float him on his side, and keep the head a little raised above the surface of the water, that the nose or gills may not hang to, or catch hold of weeds, &c. while you are thus engaged bringing your prize to the shore ; for, sometimes, you cannot avoid drawing over or among weeds ; and I have seen a Pike touch and get entangled this way ; and before it could be disentangled, it recovered from its exhaus- tion or stupor, and occasioned much trouble and hazard before it could be again subdued. Note. It is asserted, by some Anglers, that Jack or Pike will not take a bait when the moon shows itself during the day-time; and they declare, they have so frequently and invariably found that to be the case' that, when the moon shines on the water, let the hour of the day be what it may, they cease trolling. I have G 2 68 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. nothing to say on the subject, but leave the inquisitive Angler to satisfy himself by observation. CHAP. X. OBSERVATIONS ON THE DIFFERENT WAYS PRACTISED IN FISHING FOR JACK AND PIKE. ALSO, ON TRIM- MERS. CONCLUDING WITH REMARKS ON THE NA- TURE, ETC. OF JACK AND PIKE. HAVING explained the different ways generally prac- tised by Anglers in trolling or fishing for Jack and Pike, I shall now proceed to give an opinion on the merits of each different way, resulting from my own expedience, and the practice of many old friends and brothers of the angle ; beginning first with the GORGE-HOOK. In trolling with the baited gorge-hook, I have had the most success, and -with it killed the heaviest Fish. This bait shows well in the water, and turns or spins, especially when you are in the act of drawing it up, (at which time Jack or Pike generally take it), and consequently is very attracting to Jack or Pike. This bait also possesses another advantage over any other, namely, the closeness of the hooks in the bait's mouth, the points only just shewing themselves, which is ma- terial in bright water, and also less liable to catch hold OBSERVATIONS ON JACK AND PIKE-FISHING. 69 of weeds, or any thing else that might displace the hooks or disfigure the bait : and again, the hooks be- ing so much hid and out of the way, by being within the bait's mouth, and the gimp coming from the tail, there is nothing to check the Jack or Pike when they are changing the bait to pouch; for it is well known, that those Fish generally seize the bait, in the first instance, across its body, afterwards changing its po- sition, and swallow or pouch it head foremost ; con_ sequently while so doing, the gimp and hooks in most other baits are liable to offend, or create fear and suspicion in the Fish, and the bait is then frequently blown or dropped out of its mouth, instead of being pouched. I have known instances where a dozen trimmers have been laid, at a distance of twenty yards apart, each trimmer baited with a choice live-bait, and after remaining many hours in the water, neither of them have been touched ; I have then trolled be- tween them with the gorge ; and have had runs, and killed my Fish. Some Anglers think, that cutting off all the fins of the bait-fish for the gorge-hook, disfigures it ; but Jack or Pike are indifferent about it ; and it certainly is the best method, particularly as it keeps the bait from catching or hanging on weeds, and the bait also spins better when the fins are all cut close away ; therefore I cut away all the fins, but leave the tail on. From the reasons above stated, I do not hesitate to say, that I consider trolling with the gorge-hook to be the most sportsman-like, as well as the most killing 70 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. way of fishiug for Jack or Pike ; yet, at a certain sea- son of the year, the Angler will find it more profitable to use a live-bait than a dead ; but, to take the whole season for Jack and Pike-fishing, I firmly believe, he who confines himself to trolling with the gorge will kill twice the number or weight of Jack and Pike, than he who, for the whole season, fishes only with a live- bait.* LIVE-BAIT FISHING. Fishing for Jack with a live-bait, and a cork float on the line, is certainly an enticing way; but I do not consider it so successful as trolling with the gorge - hook; neither have I ever killed such heavy Fish by this method of live-bait fishing as with the gorge-bait; yet I know, from practice, that more Jack and Pike may be killed by angling for them with a live-bait and a floated line, than any other way, except trolling with the gorge-hook ; and the little labour or exertion re- quired to take Jack and Pike by this mode of fishing, is doubtless the cause of many preferring it, as it al- lows them frequent opportunities of resting when they * An instance, in corroboration of this opinion, occurred to two friends of mine in the month of November, 1822, who were Jack- fishing with live and dead-baits, in the river Lea, near Cheshunt. In the afternoon, the Fish were strong on the feed, during which time they bagged near sixty pounds' weight of Jack and Pike, the whole of which they killed with dead-baits, and the gorge-hook ; but not a Fish with the live-bait, although they had two lines baited, and in the water all day. SNAP-FISHING. 71 reacli a clear, still place, either in rivers or ponds, with the pleasure of observing their float dance about by the live-bait sailing to and fro, which certainly does have the effect of drawing the Jack or Pike to the bait ; but they often blow, drop, or throw it out of their mouths again, from the gimp or hook touching them when shifting the bait to pouch it. This frequently occurs when the bait is hooked by the lip, which is my principal reason for preferring the hooks lying ou the side, and gimp coming out below the back fin. (See Fig. 2. Chap. III.) When the water is very bright, I use a strong No. 6 hook, tied to twisted gut, instead of gimp, and a very small bait, with which I kill many Jack and Perch that would not take a bait fixed to gimp-tackle in very bright or fine water, or in shal- lows, during the Summer. The most proper time for live-bait fishing is, when the heavy weeds, rushes, and sedges, are rotten, and daily wasting and being washed away by floods, frosts, &c., which generally commence in November; from which time until April, Jack and Pike will take a live- bait more freely that at any other time of the year. SNAP-FISHING. Snap- fishing for Jack and Pike is neither so scientific, gentlemanly, or sportsman-like a way of angling, as with the gorge or live- bait ; nor does it afford BO much amusement or profit ; for, when the hook or hooks are baited, the Angler casts in search, draws, raises, and sinks his bait, until he feels a bite; he then strikes with 72 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. much violence, and instantly drags or throws his victim, nolens volens, on shore, (and then almost wonders how he came there,) which he is enabled to do, because the hooks used for the Snap are of the largest and strongest kind used in fresh- water fishing. But this hurried and unsportsman-like way of taking Fish can only please those who value the Fish more than the sport afforded by killing a Jack or Pike with tackle, which gives the Fish a chance of escaping, and excites the Angler's skill and patience, mixed with a certain pleasing anxiety* lest he escape, and the reward of his hopes by killing the fish, which is the true sportsman's delight. Neither has the snap-fisher so good a chance of success, unless he angle in a pond or piece of water, where the Jack or Pike are very numerous, or half starved , and will hazard their lives for almost any thing that comes in the way; but in rivers where they are well fed, worth killing, and rather scarce, the coarse snap-tackle, large hooks, &c. generally alarm them: on the whole, I think it is two to one against the snap, in most rivers ; and if there are many weeds in the water, the large hooks of the snap, by standing rank, are continually getting foul, damaging the bait, and causing much trouble and loss of time. Jack are also killed by an artificial bait, called a Devil, which should be about three inches long ; they are kept ready fitted at the fishing-tackle shops, and in some sharp waters are very killing. TWO-HANDED FISHING. 73 TWO-HANDED, OR CROSS-FISHING. In the north of England, two-handed or cross-fish- ing is practised for Salmon, Trout, and also for Jack and Pike ; though this method of fishing is but little practised elsewhere. Indeed, it can hardly be called fair fishing; and, as such, it is generally forbid by the proprietors of private waters, who seldom deny a sportrnan a day's angling, under fair restrictions. This two-handed Snap-fishing for Jack and Pike is practised in the following manner: take about forty or fifty yards of strong cord, sash, or jack line, and fasten each end to poles about seven or eight feet long; and on each pole fasten a large winch that will hold fifty yards of the strongest platted silk trolling line ; in the middle of the strong line (which is fastened to the poles) tie on a small brass or wooden pulley; then draw the trolling-line from the winches, and pass it through the pulley ; then bait a snap hook or hooks with a full- sized bait-fish, and fix it to the trolling-line, and all is ready to commence two-handed Snap-fishing. The parties managing the poles, proceed directly op- posite each other, on the banks of rivers or other waters, and drop their baited hooks in places where they expect to find; and when they feel a bite, one strikes very smartly, and his companion then lowers or other- wise manages his pole, so as to give him any or every assistance while killing and getting the Jack or Pike on shore. When the gorge-hook is used in this way of fishing, it is then proper to have two pulleys fastened 74 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. to the thick cord, near the centre of it, at about a yard apart ; because, when one Angler feels a run, the other should immediately keep all still while the Fish pouches : this cannot be so well done when both lines pass through one pulley : and the Troller knows, that if Jack or Pike are not well on the feed, they will-throw or drop the bait on the least check or alarm ; if there be only one pulley, then only one line should be used. In some places, the country people get a strong small rope or clothes line, and tie one or more snap baited hooks to it, and take hold one at each end of the rope, and walk opposite each other, on the banks of small rivers and ponds, letting the baited hooks drag in the water, until they feel a bite; the one strikes and im- mediately drags the Jack on shore, the other person slacks the line he holds, while his companion is so doing. Various other ways are practised for taking Jack and Pike, by night lines, trimmers, &c.; but such methods are justly reprobated by the true Angler who exercises his skill and art for amusement more than profit; therefore, I shall say but very little on this part of the subject. The trimmers mostly used in lakes, meers, broads, pools, and large ponds, are taken up from a boat ; if the place be not too broad, you may get them with the drag hooks, or with a large stone, fastened to plenty of strong cord, being thrown over the trimmer line : these trimmers are made of strong thin hempen cord, with a hook tied to brass wire (but gimp is better), and wound on a large piece of flat cork, about five or six inches in diameter, with THE BANK-RUNNER, TRIMMER, ETC. 75 a groove to admit the line : the hook is baited with a Gudgeon, Roach, or some small Fish ; you then draw as much line out as admits the bait to hang about a foot from the bottom. There is a small slit in the cork, that you pass the line in, to prevent it unwinding : as soon as the Jaek or Pike seizes the bait, the line loosens, and runs from the groove of the cork free, and allows the Fish to retire to his haunt, and pouch at leisure. These floating trimmers, are named, by some, the man-of-war trimmers, from the largeness of the cork; and by others, fox-hounds ; and may be purchased at all the principal fishing-tackle shops. Some use only a wisp of straw or rushes, and tie two or three yards of string to a baited hook, then throw the whole in the water, and often kill with a trimmer so rudely con- structed, especially in the broads in the county of Nor- folk, trimmers are there called ligurs. 1 . Rod to place and take up trimmers and dead bait lines. 2. Bank-runner trimmer, baited with a live baiL THE BANK-RUNNER, TRIMMER, ETC. The bank-runner is mostly used in the day, while the Angler is fishing for Roach, Barbel, &c. These 76 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. trimmers are stuck in the bank, the bottom being strong turned wood, sharpened for the purpose, with a winder at top for the line, which should be from sixteen to twenty yards long, made of silk trolling line, thin cord, or platted Dutch twine ; but you must have a cork and bullet to the line; {Seethe Cut). The cork used for a wine-bottle does very well after the edges are pared round the top and bottom ; and bait with a live Fish, as described in the Cut, which should swim about a foot or two from the ground, which it will by the aid of the cork. When you use the rod, fig. 1, hold the line with your left hand, and, with your right, pass the forked part under the line just above the bullet : you may then place the baited hook in the water, where you please, by a jerk of the rod, at the same time letting the line go from your left hand. TO TAKE JACK AND PIKE, WITH HOOK, BLADDER, OR BOTTLE. Jack and Pike are also taken in lakes, and other large pieces of water, by baiting with a full-sized Dace, Gudgeon, or a Eoach ; nearly half-a-pound weight is best. Use strong snap-hooks, with two lengths of gimp, and two swivels, which must be fastened to about a yard of the stoutest platted silk trolling-line : then tie the line very secure to the neck of a large bladder, and launch it in the water with a brisk wind : if the Fish are on the feed, you will soon perceive the water agitated in the most violent manner ; and, after an amusing and desperate struggle, the bladder will SNARING OF JACK AND PIKE. 77 kill the heaviest Pike, provided your hooks and tackle are good. In Ramsey Meer, Huntingdonshire, there is an annual exhibition, called a bottle-race, and often much betting on the event of which bottle kills a Pike first : the baits and hooks are managed in the same manner as with a bladder ; the bottle (a wine bottle) is used in place of a bladder ; the line is tied round the neck. When several are so prepared, they are ranged in a row, and all launched at a given signal; and much amusement and delight is afforded the spec- tators, by the Jack and Pike dragging the bottles about, and often two come in contact. If the Fish feed well, which is generally the case, for this extensive piece of water abounds with Jack and very large Pike, some fasten their trimmer lines to large bricks, or heavy pieces of stone, or clods of earth, to prevent them being noticed, and throw them into the water. SNARING, OR HALTERING OF JACK AND PIKE. In the Spring and Summer, Jack and Pike will fre- quently lie dozing near the surface of the water, es- pecially in large ditches, connected with rivers and ponds, also among weeds ; they are then taken in an unsportsmanlike manner, by making a running noose of wire, gimp, trolling-line, or treble twisted gut fas- tened to a strong line and rod, or pole ; the noose should be very carefully drawn over the Fish's head beyond the gills, then, with a strong jerk, he is se- curely caught ; lift him out immediately. Fish may be taken, when found lying in a similar manner to that 78 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. already described, by putting two or three strong hooks at the bottom of your line, and letting them sink under the Fish ; then strike smartly, and you will generally be successful. REMARKS ON THE NATURE, HAUNTS, HABITS, ETC. OF JACK AND PIKE. Beware, ye flirting Gudgeons, Roaches fair, And all who breathe the lucid crystal of the lakes, Or lively sport, between the dashing wheels Of river mills ; beware ; the Tyrant comes ; Grim death awaits you in his gaping jaws, And lurks behind his hungry fangs. See M'Quin's Descriptions of three hundred Animals. Jack and Pike have a flattish head ; the under jaw is something longer than the upper one, and turns up a little ; the mouth is extremely wide, the tongue very large, and studded with teeth, the lower jaw is set round with large crooked canine teeth ; the expanse of mouth, jaws and teeth, enables this merciless Fish to hold fast, and quickly destroy the victim that is so unfortunate as to come within its reach. The body of a Jack is long, and cased with very small hard scales, and when they are in season, it is covered with a mucous or slimy sub- stance ; the back and upper part of the sides are of a greenish golden hue, and the belly of an indifferent white colour ; the eyes are of a bright yellow, and sunk low in the sockets, but are so placed as to enable the Jack to look upwards, which should teach the Angler not to sink his bait too low in the water. REMARKS ON JACK AND PIKE. 79 After Jack and Pike have fully recovered from spawning, they then have many beautiful spots on their bodies, of a bright white and yellowish colour ; their tails and fins have also on them numerous dusky spots and waved lines. Jack and Pike, when on the feed, are as bold as they are voracious, attacking all kinds of Fish, except the Tench. Pike, fell tyrant of the liquid plain, With ravenous waste devours his fellow train ; Yet, howsoe'er with raging famine pin'd, The Tench he spares, a medicinal kind ; For when by wounds distress'd, or sore disease, He courts the salutary Fish for ease ; Close to his scales the kind physician glides, And sweats the healing balsam from his sides. POPE. When much distressed for food, they will seize the smaller of their own species, and also ducks, water- rats, mice, frogs, or any other small animal they can meet with : they will often seize a small Fish, which the Angler has hooked, while he is drawing it out of the water, leaping above the surface for that purpose. I have known many instances of their swallowing the leaden plummet that the Angler is taking his depth with ; and once, while I was plumbing the depth (preparatory to fishing for Chub in the winter) with a folding plummet, having a No. 8 hook and a gut-line, a Jack of about two pounds immediately pouched my plummet ; the hook, hanging over the side of this H 2 80 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. folding plummet, got sufficient hold of the Jack, that I held him, and soon killed and landed this hungry intruder. Perch (the large ones especially) seem but little intimidated by the appearance of Jack or Pike, for they continue to swim about as before those tyrants appeared. The following singular circumstance occurred with my friend Mr. R. Robinson, who laid a trimmer baited with a stone loach, which a Perch, of about half a pound weight, took and gorged ; a Pike, then finding the Perch somewhat embarrassed, seized him, and attempted to pouch him ; but the dorsal fin of the Perch stuck so fast across the throat of the Pike, that he could not extricate himself; by which means, Mr. R. s?cured both Perch and Pike. It is, however, different with other Fish, as they immediately swim or dart away with the greatest velocity, and the Eels suddenly sink and bury themselves in the mud, or lay close under thick and heavy beds of weeds. It is generally supposed, that Jack will increase in weight something more than a pound in a year, for the first four or five years, and during that time, continue to grow in length ; but after that period, they grow more in depth or breadth and thickness. Some writers on Natural History affirm that Pike will live two or three hundred years, and grow to the amazing size of a hundred and fifty pounds, or more, and that they are so wonderfully prolific, as to produce more than a hundred and fifty thousand eggs in one roe. Of those circumstances, respecting the age, &c. of Jack and COLOUR AND HABITS OF JACK AND PIKE. 81 Pike, I must confess, I know but little; therefore shall say nothing more on the subject, leaving the curious to consult the Natural History of Fishes, &c., during unfavourable weather; but instead thereof, will inform the Angler where he is likely to find both old and young, large and small Jack and Pike, so that he may avoid much loss of time and fruitless labour, when in search of them. Jack and Pike are partial to quiet retired places, where the water is rather shallow than deep, forming a bend or bay in rivers and large waters, and also re- moved from strong currents, especially if those bends or bays abound with their favourite weed, the pickerell, (on which they are said to feed), also the candock or water-lily, and the shore- sides are shaded with tall sedgy sags. Among those sedges, Jack and Pike lay (especially during floods, heavy runs of water, and while the water is thick) a foot or two below the sur- face, with their noses just projecting from the sedges, looking up the stream for what may come within their reach as food ; therefore the Angler when he comes in thick, heavy water, must try close in shore. But when the weather is fine, and the water of a proper colour, Jack and Pike occasionally go some yards from their haunts in search of food, particularly to the sharps, shallows, and parts of waters where the bottom is clean, sandy, or gravelly; because, in such places, Gudgeons, Dace, and other small Fish, delight to resort. In February (if mild for the season) Jack and Pike begin to remove from their retired situations, 82 THE TROLLER'S GUIDE. and from natural feelings, they congregate in those parts of pools, and rivers, canals, lakes, or ponds, where small streams and ditches empty themselves, or run into larger waters. In the month of March they spawn, retiring for that purpose, in pairs, to the stillest part of the waters, and deposit their spawn among and on those weeds which are of the nature of rushes, having thick stems, such as the candock and water-lily, and, in default of which, about the roots or lower parts of bull-rushes or sedges. From March till August or September, Jack and Pike are not in a vigor- ous state, seeming more inclined to doze and bask in the sun nearly out of water, than feed ; for at those times it is not unusual to see numerous small Fish swimming and playing around this deadly enemy of the finny race for hours, without his disturbing them. At such times, Jack and Pike will refuse the choicest bait the Angler can select ; and if it be placed so close as to touch his nose, he will not take it, but generally draws himself a little back from it ; and if you perse- vere in placing or drawing the bait (either live or dead) to him, he will sink or plunge away in anger: in fact, Jack and Pike are among, if not the longest of any Fish, in recovering their health, flesh, and appetite, after the act of procreation; for few of them will take a bait freely, nor are they often fit for the table before September or October. For during the first part of Summer, they remain long, thin, and lanky; the various spots and golden tinge on their sides and back, then lose much of their brightness or brilliancy, and their COLOUR AND HABITS OF JACK AND PIKE. 83 heads appear unseemly large, because they have then lost that depth and rotundity of body (especially "about the vent-fin) which they possess when in season ; for Pike that weigh ten pounds when in full health and vigour, would not weigh more than seven or eight while out of season or condition ; which they certainly are, and so remain (generally speaking) in all rivers, lakes, meers, or ponds, from the month of April, until September to October. Note. A Jack or Pike will be much finer, and of better flavour, if they are gutted, and a handful of salt put in its place, and left there for twelve hours, laying the Fish in a dish to drain before it is cooked. Some persons are partial to small Jack ; the best way to cook them is, to split them down the back and fry them in egg-batter, and if well dressed they will be found excellent food : heavy Pike are best roasted. Jack. Perch. Trout. INDEX. AUTHOR'S (The) Opinion of the different Methods practised in Trolling, or Fishing for Jack and Pike, 68. Bait, not to be taken out too quick when Trolling, 68. Bank-runner described, 75. Boots, how to make Waterproof, 2. Bottle-racing for Jack, how and where practised, 76. Cross-fishing described, 73. Crutch, or Fork, necessary for laying Trimmers, 75. Floats used for Jack Fishing, 56. Gag for Jack, its use explained, 53. Gorge- hook, how to bait, 4. Gudgeons the best bait for Jack, 62. Holmes, Mr. sells Live-bait all the year, 37. Jacobs, Mr. sells Live-bait all the year, 37. Jack, Method of Trolling for, 38. One taken by Mr. Robinson in a remarkable manner, 80. Remarks on the different Modes of Trolling for, 68. Nature and Habits of Jack and Pike described, 78. How to Prepare and Cook, 83. Ligurs, what, and how used, 75. Man-of-War Trimmer, why so named, 75. Snap-hooks, how to bait, 16. Snaring Jack and Pike, how practised, 77. Swivels, of what use, &c., 28. Trimmers described, how made and Baited, 74. Trolling, Prefatory Remarks on, 1. Trolling Rods and Lines, how to Choose, 31. Trolling Lines, Composition for Preserving, 26. G. Norman, Printer, Maiden Lane, Covent Garden. BOOKS PRINTED FOR JAMES MAYNARD. BLAIR'S CHRONOLOGY, (Three Additional Tables to complete), containing the most Remarkable Events of the last Twenty Years, bringing the work to the close of the Year 1834. II. In 4to. with Plates, price 15s. boards. BORDWINE'S (Professor) Memoirs of a Proposed New System of Fortification. III. In 12mo. price 3s. 6d. bound, the Eigth Edition. CRABB'S ELEMENTS of GERMAN and ENGLISH Conversation, on Familiar Subjects, with Additions and Cor- rections, by Adolphus Bernuys, Ph. 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