fffl SCENERY IN LOWER CALIFORNIA. HISTORY OF THE STjlTE OF FROM THE PERIOD OF THE CONQUEST BY SPAIN, TO HER OCCUPATION BY THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. CONTAINING AN ACCOUNT OF THK DISCOVERY OF THE IMMENSE GOLD MINES AND PLACERS, A DESCRIPTION OF HER MINERAL AND AGRICULTURAL RESOURCES, WITH THRILLING ACCOUNTS OF ADVENTURES AMONG THE MINERS. ALSO, A BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE FORMATION OF THE GOVERNMENT AND CONSTITUTION OF THE STATE. WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. BY JOHN FROST, LL.D. NEW YORK: HURST & CO., PUBLISHERS, 122 NASSAU STREET. -ARGYLE PRESS, PREFACE. THE occupation of California by the people of the United States, and the discovery, of its rich gold mines, form a new era in the history of the world. According to present appear- ances, these events forebode a complete revolu- tion in monetary and commercial affairs. The receipts of gold from California have already produced a sensible effect on the financial af- fairs of our country ; and far-seeing people pre- dict an entirely new state of things with respect to the relative value of money and property. Still more important effects are anticipated from the establishment of a new, rich, and en- terprising State of the American Union on the shores of the Pacific. Railroads across the con- tinent will soon transport the rich products of Eastern Asia, by a quick transit, to the Atlan- tic cities and to Europe; and a passage to China or India, which was formerly a serious undertaking, will become a pleasant excursion. 2031341 '* 4 FR1FAC1. To gratify the public curiosity with respect to the history and present state of this new member of the Union, is the purpose of this volume. In preparing it, the author has passed rapidly over the early history, and dwelt chiefly on recent events, and the actual state of the country, as he considered that, by this course, utility would be more effectually oonsulted. In the Appendix he has introduced the con- stitution of California, and some official docu- ments, whose importance demanded their pre- aervation in a permanent fonn. CONTENTS CHAPTER L BIOGRAPHICAL OUTUNJ OF CALIFORNIA CHAPTER IT. ,T OF CALIFORNIA ~ U CHAPTER LH. FEOM IHS FIRST SBTTLEMENT TO THE REVOLUTION nr MEXICO 20 CHAPTER IV. FSOM IHB REVOLUTION TILL THE WAR BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES AND MEXICO 24 CHAPTER V. ' FEOM THE COMMENCEMENT OF THE WAR TILL ITS CLOSE 27 CHAPTER VL DISCOVERT OF THB GOLD PLACERS 38 CHAPTER VIL ADVENTURES OF SOME OF THE MINERS, AND INCIDENTS CONNECTED WITH MINING- 58 CHAPTER Vin DESCBIPTION OF SOME OF THB CITIES AND TOWNS OF CALIFORNIA, BEFORE AND APTEB THJ! DISCOVERT OF THB GOLD MlNM 87 CHAPTER DL THB FORMATION OF A STATB GOVBRNMENT 118 CHAPTER X. PRESENT STATE OF CALIFORNIA 132 CHAPTER XL Tax DIFFEMNT ROUTES TO CALIFORNIA, A\I> TUEIR RESPECTIVE CHARACTERS 181 CHAPTER XH. RBCINT EVENTS OSNNZCTED WITH, AND HAPPENING IN, CAiironNiA 218 CHAPTER XIIL TH> METEKALOOICAL AND OTHER CHARACTERISTICS OF GOLD, AKD THB MODS OF DIS- HHOCI3IIINO IT WHi.N FOCND ; TOGETIIEB WITH THE ASSAY, BSDUCTION, AND B> (6) OONTE NTS- CHAPTER XIV. ADDITIONAL kicjmr ETBNTS *- ~* - ** *** '" *** CHAPTER XV. A OKNEUI, VDJW OF CALIFORNIA AT THE PRESENT ran 268 CHAPTER XVI. NATBEAL HISTORY OF GAUVOUU .^-..^.^. ..~~. 278 THfc HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA CHAPTER I. GEOGRAPHICAL OUTLINE OP CALIFORNIA THE territory called California is that part of North America situated on the Pacific Ocean, and extending from the 42 of north latitude southwardly to 22 48', and from 107 longitude, west from Greenwich, to 124. It is bounded on the north by Oregon terri- tory, east by territories belonging to the United States and the Gulf of California, and on the south and west by Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. Califor- nia is naturally divided into two portions ; the penin- sula; called Lower California, and the territory ex- tending northward from the peninsula, on the Pacific Ocean, called Upper California. The line of division between Upper and Lower California runs nearly along the 32d parallel of latitude, westward from the head of the Gulf of California. The peninsula of California is about one hundred and thirty miles in breadth, where it joins the conti- nent. It extends south-eastwardly, generally dimi nishing in breadth, till it terminates in two points. The point farthest south-west is called Cape Sao (T) 8 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. Lucas. The other, sixty miles east by north of San Lucas, is called Cape Palmo. The peninsula is about seven hundred miles long Upper California extends, upon the Pacific, from the 32d parallel of latitude, northward to the 42d parallel, a distance of about seven hundred miles. It is separated from Oregon by a range of highlands, called the Snowy Mountains, or. by the Spaniards, the Sierra Nevada. The eastern limit of Upper Cali- fornia is rather uncertain. By some it is considered as including the region watered by the Colorado River, while others limit it by the great mountain range that extends along the western side of the continent. The Californian peninsula seems to be a prolonga- tion of the great western chain of mountains. It consists entirely of high, stony ridges, separated by sandy valleys, and contains very few tracts of level ground. In a general view, it might be termed an irreclaimable desert. The scarcity of rain and the small number of springs of water, with the intense neat of the sun's rays, uninterrupted in their passage, render the surface of the country almost destitute of vegetation. Yet in the small oases formed by the passage of a rivulet through a sandy defile, where irrigation is possible, the ground may be made to pro- duce all the fruits of tropical climes, of the finest quality, and in great quantity. The soutnern portion of the peninsula contains several gold mines, which have been worked, though not to any great extent. On the Pacific side, the coast offers many excellent harbors, but the lack of fresh water near them proves an obstacle in the way of their occupation. The principal harbors are the Bay of la Magdalena, separated from thfc ocean by the long island of Santa HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. S Margarita, the Bay of Sebastian Vizcaino, east of tke Isle of Cedaro, Port San Bartolome', sometimes called Turtle Bay, and Port San Quintin, a good harbor, with fresh water in the vicinity, and called by the ~ Spanish navigators the Port of the Eleven Thousand Virgins. The great westernmost range of mountains runs northward from the peninsula, nearly parallel with the Pacific coast, to the 34th parallel of latitude, be- low which is Mount San Bernardin, one of the highest peaks in California, about forty miles from the ocean. Farther northward, the space between the mountains and the coast becomes wider, and, in a few places, reaches eighty miles. The intermediate region is tra- versed by lines of hills, or smaller mountains joined with the great range. The most considerable of the inferior ridges extends from Mount San Bernardin to the south side of the entrance of the Bay of San Francisco, where it is called the San Bruno Moun- tains. Between this range and the coast runs the Santa Barbara range, terminating at the Cape of Pines, on the south-west side of the Bay of Monterey. Bordering on the Bay of San Francisco, on the east side, is the Bolbona ridge. Beyond these are lines of highlands which stretch from the great chain and ter- minate in capes on the Pacific. There are many streams among the valleys of Upper California, some of which, in the rainy season, swell to a considerable size. But no river, except the Sacramento, falling into the Bay of San Francisco, is known to flow through the maritime range of moun- tains, from the interior to the Pacific. The valleys thus watered offer abundant pasturage for cattle. The principal harbors of Upper California are those 10 FTSTORY OF CALIFORNIA. offered by the Bays of San Francisco, Monterey^ San Pedro, Santa Barbara, and San Diego. The Bay of San Francisco is one of the finest harbors in the world. The combined fleets of all the naval Dowers of Europe might there find safe shelter. It is surrounded by ranges of high hills, and joins the Pacific by a passage two miles wide and three in 'ength. The other harbors can only be frequented in the fine season, and afford a very insecure shelter for vessels. San Diego is the farthest south. The bay at that place runs ten miles eastward into the land, arid is separated from the ocean by a ridge of sand. Proceeding northward, about seventy miles, the Bay of San Pedro is next met. It is open to the south- west winds, but sheltered from the north-west. About a hundred miles north-west of San Pedro, is the har- bor of Santa Barbara. It is an open roadstead shel- tered from the north and west winds, but exposed to the violence of the south-westerly storms, which pre- vail during the greater part of the year. A hundred miles farther north is the Bay of Monterey. It is extensive, and lies in an indentation of the coast, somewhat semicircular. The southernmost portion is separated from the ocean by the point of land ending at the Cape of Pines. In the cove thus formed, stands the town of Monterey, for some time the capi- tal of California. The harbor affords but a poor shel- ter from storms. The Sacramento and San Joachim are the princi pal rivers of California, but the Sacramento alone is navigable to any extent worthy of mention. There are numerous small streams and lakes in the interior, the principal outlet of which is the Colorado River, The valleys through which these streams flow ar HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 1] fertile, and afford good pasture for cattle; but the remainder of the region between the maritime and the Colorado rangss of mountains is a barren waste of sand. CHAPTER II. DISCOVERY OF CALIFORNIA. THE first exploration of the Pacific coasts of North America was made by the Spaniards, in the sixteenth century. After Hernando Cortes had completed the conquest of Mexico, he commenced exploring the ad- joining seas and countries ; no doubt, with the hope of discovering lands richer than those which he had conquered, and which would afford new fields for the exercise of his daring enterprise and undaunted per- severance. He employed vessels in surveying the soasts of the Mexican Gulf, and of the Atlantic more northerly. Vessels were built upon the Pacific coast for like purposes, two of which as early as 1526, were sent to the East Indies. The first expedition of the Spaniards, sent along the western coast of Mexico, was conducted by Pedro Nunez de Maldonado, an officer under Cortes. He sailed from the mouth of the Zacatula River, in July, 1528, and was six months engaged in surveying the shores from his starting-place to the mouth of the Santiago River, a hundred leagues farther north-west. The territory he visited was then called Xalisco. and inhabited by fierce tribes of men who had never been 12 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. conquered !>y the Mexicans. Flattering accounts of the fertility of the country and of the abundance of the precious metals in it were brought back by the ex- pedition, and these served to excite the attention of tiie Spaniards. When the expedition returned Cortes was in Spain, whither he had gone to have his title and powers more clearly defined. He returned in 1530 with full power to make discoveries and con- quests upon the western coast of Mexico. From the opposition of his enemies, he was prevented from fit- ting out an expedition before 1532. The most north- ern post upon the Pacific coast, occupied by the Spaniards, was Aguatlan, beyond which the coast was little known. The expedition sent by Cortes to the north-western coast of Mexico was commanded by his kinsman, Diego Hurtado de Mendoza. It sailed from Tehuantepec in July, 1532, and consisted of two vessels.; one com- manded by Diego Hurtado de Mendoza in person, and the other by Juan de Mazuela. Mendoza proceeded slowly along the shore of the continent as far as the 27 of latitude, where, his crew being mutinous, he sent back one of his vessels with the greater part of his men, and continued the voyage with the remaining vessel. Vague reports were afterwards received that Mendoza's vessel was thrown ashore somewhere to the northward, and that all on board had perished. The vessel which *was sent back, was stranded near the mouth of the River Vanderas, and after the murder of the greater part of the crew, she was plundered by Nuno de Guzman, Governor of Xalisco. About the middle of the next year, Cortes received the news of the return of the vessel which Mendoza had sent back, and he immediately despatched two ships HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 18 the command of Hernando Grijalva and Diego Be- cerra, in search of the other. These ships sailed on the 30th of September, 1533, hut were soon sepa- rated. Grijalva discovered the islands of St. Thomas, as he called them a group of islands about fifty leagues from the coast. He remained there till the following spring, and then returned home. Becerra proceeded north-westward ; but his crew mutinied, and he was murdered by Fortuno Ximenes. The mutineers, under Ximenes, then steered directly west from the main land, and soon reached a coast not known to them before. They landed, and soon after Ximenes and nineteen men were killed by the na- tives. The rest of the men carried the vessel over to Xalisco, where she was seized by Nuno de Guz- man. Soon after these unlucky expeditions, Nuno de Guzman sent out several exploring parties in a north- erly direction, one of which traced the western shore as far as the mouth of the Colorado, and brought back accounts of a rich and populous country and splendid cities in the interior. When Cortes became acquainted with the seizure of his vessels, a dispute arose be- tween him and Nuno de Guzman, which almost led to a battle between their forces. But no action oc- curred, and Cortes, having heard of the newly disco- vered country, which was said to abound in the finest pearls, embarked at Chiametla, with a portion of his men, and set sail for the new land of promise. On the 3d of May, 1535, the day of the Invention of the Holy Cross, according to the Roman Catholic Calen- dar, Cortes arrived in the bay where Ximenes and his fellow-mutineers had met their fate in the previous year. In honor of the day, the place was called 14 HISTORY OP CALIFORNIA. Santa Cruz, and possession of it was taken in the /name of the Spanish sovereign. The country claimed by Cortes for Spain, was the J south-east portion of the peninsula, which was after- | wards called California. The bay, called by Cortes, \ Santa Cruz, was, perhaps, the same now known as <* Port La Paz, about a hundred miles from the Pacific, " near the 24th parallel of latitude. Cortes landed on the shore of this bay, rocky and forbidding as it ap- peared, with a hundred and thirty men, and forty horses. He then sent back two of his ships to Chia- metla, to bring over the rest of his troops. The ves- sels soon returned with a portion of the troops, and being again despatched to the Mexican coast, only one of them returned. The other was wrecked on her way. Cortes then took seventy men and embarked for Xalisco, from which* he returned Justin time to save his troops from death by famine. A year was spent in these operations, and the troops began to grow discontented. A few pearls had been found on the coast, but the country was found to be barren, and without attractions for Spaniards. In the mean time, the wife of Cortes hearing reports of his ill success, sent a vessel to Santa Cruz, and en- treated him to return. He then learned that he had been superseded in the government of New Spain by Don Antonio de Mendoza, who had already entered the capital as viceroy. Cortes returned to Mexico, and soon after, recalled the vessels and troops from Santa Cruz. The viceroy, Mendoza, had received some informa- tion concerning the country north-west of Mexico, from de Cabeza-Vaca and two other Spaniards, who bad wandered nine years, through forests and deserts, HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 16 from Tampa Bay, Florida, until they reached Culia- can. They had received from the natives, accounts of rich and populous countries situated to the north- west. Mendoza, wishing to ascertain the truth of the reports, sent two friars, according to the advice of Las Casas, to make an exploration. They were ac- companied by a Moor who had crossed the continent with Cabeza-Vaca and his friends, and they set out from Culiacan on the 7th of March, 1539. Soon after the departure of the friars, Cortes sent out his last expedition. It was commanded by Fran- cisco de Ulloa, and consisted of three vessels, well equipped. Sailing from Acapulco, on the 8th of July 1539. Ulloa reached the Bay of Santa Cruz, after losing one of his vessels in a storm. From Santa Cruz he started to survey the coast towards the north- / west. He completely examined both shores of the Gulf of California, and discovered the fact of the connection of the peninsula with the main land, near the 32 of latitude. This gulf Ulloa named the Sea of Cortes. On the 18th of October, he returned to Santa Cruz, and on the 29th again sailed with the object of exploring the coasts farther west. He rounded the point now called Cape San Lucas, the southern extremity of California, and sailed along the coast towards the north. The Spaniards proceeded slowly, as they were opposed by north-western storms, and often landed and fought with the natives. la January, 1540, Ulloa reached the island under the 28th parallel of latitude, near the coast, which they named the Isle of Cedars. There he remained till April, when one of the ships, bearing the sick and accounts of the discoveries, was sent back to Mexico. The returning vessel was seized at Santiago by the 16 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. officers of the viceroy. The fate of the remaining vessel is uncertain. Some of the writers of that day asserting that he continued his voyage as far north ae the 30 of latitude, and returned safely to Mexico- while one asserts that nothing more was heard of him after the return of the vessel he sent hack. In the mean time, the two friars and the Moor penetrated a considerable distance into the interior of the continent, and sent home glowing Accounts of rich and delightful countries which they said they had dis- covered. The inhabitants had, at first, been hostile, and had killed the Moor ; but in the end submitted tc the authority of the King of Spain. Mendoza, be- lieving the accounts of the friars to be strictly true, prepared an expedition for the conquest of the coun- tries they described. Disputes with the different Spanish chieftains occupied some months, at the end of which Cortes returned to Spain, in disgust. Men- doza despatched two bodies of troops, one by land, the other by sea, to reconnoitre the newly discovered land, and clear the way for conquest. The marine expedition was undertaken by two ships, under the command of Fernando de Alarcon, who sailed from Santiago on the 9th of May, 1540, and proceeding north-west along the coast, he reached the head of the California Gulf, in August of the same year. There he discovered the river now callel the Colorado. The stream was ascended to the distance of eighty leagues, by Alarcon and some of his men, in boats ; but all their inquiries were unsatisfactorily answered, and it was determined to return to Mexico. The ves- sels returned safely before the end of the year. The land forces sent, at the same time, to the north- west, were composed of infantry and cavalry, and HISTORY OP CALIFORNIA. 17 commanded by Francisco Vasquez de Coronado, who had been appointed governor of New Gallicia, in place of Nuno de Guzman. The party left Culiacan on the 22d of April, 1540, and took their way north, follow- ing the course described by the friars. They found the route which had been represented as easy, almost impassable. They made their way over mountains, and deserts, and rivers, and, in July, they reached the country called Cibola by the natives, but found it a half cultivated region, thinly inhabited by a people destitute of the wealth and civilization they had been represented as possessing. What had been represented as seven great cities, were seven small towns, rudely built. A few Aurquoises and some gold and silver supposed to be good, constituted the amount of what had been termed immense quantities of jewels, gold and silver. The Spaniards took possession of the country and wanted to remain and settle there. But Vasquez refused to acquiesce ; and after naming one of the towns he visited, Granada, he started for the north-west, in search of other countries. The region called Cibola by the inhabitants, which Vasquez visited, is the territory now called Sonora, and is situated about the head waters of the Rivers Yaqui and Gila, east of the upper portion of the Gulf of California. The movements of the Spaniards after leaving Cibola, in August, 1540, have been the subject of very vague and contradictory accounts. All that is certain is, that the greater part of the force soon returned to Mexico, and that Vasquez, with the remainder, wandered through the interior for nearly two years longer, when, being disappointed in his expectations, he returned to Mexico in 1542. In the spring of 1542, two vessels were placed under 2 18 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. the command of Juan Roderiguez Cabrillo, a Portn guese navigator of great reputation. The two vessels Bailed from Navidad, a small port in Xalisco, in June, 1542. They rounded Cape San Lucas, and proceeded north-west, along the coast, as far as the 88th degree of latitude, when he was driven back, and took refuge in a harbor of one of the San Barbara islands. There Cabrillo died and the command devolved on Barto- lome Ferrelo. Ferrelo was a zealous and determined man, and he resolved to proceed with the expedition He sailed towards the north, and on the 26th of February, reached a promontory near the 41st parallel of latitude, which he named Stormy Cape. On the 1st of March, the ships reached the 44th parallel, but they were again driven south ; and the men being almost worn out, Ferrelo resolved to go back to Mexico. He arrived at Navidad on the 14th of April, 1543. The promontory called Stormy Cape by Ferrelo, was the most northern portion of California visited by that navigator, and it is probably the same which is now called Cape Mendocino. From all accounts that they had been able to collect, the Spaniards concluded that neither rich and popu- lous countries existed beneath the 40th parallel of latitude, nor was there any navigable passage between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans to be found in the same region. They, therefore, ceased to explore the north-western territory for some time after the return of Ferrelo in 1543. Having thus given a somewhat detailed account of the discovery and explorations of the territory now called California, it will be sufficient to merely mention the various expeditions that visited it prior to the first regular settlement. In the spring of 1579, California HISTORY OF CALIFORN.i. 19 was visited by Sir Francis Drake, the English naviga tor, who landed on the shores of a bay supposed to be that of San Francisco. He formally took possession of the country in the name of Queen Elizabeth, and called it New Albion. He left California on the 22d / of July, 1579. In the spring of 1596, Sebastian Viscaino, under orders from the viceroy of Mexico, attempted to plant colonies on the peninsula of Cali- fornia, but the country was soon abandoned on account of the barrenness of the soil and the ferocity of the natives. Viscaino visited the coast of Upper Califoi nia in 1602, and discovered and named some of the places Cabrillo had discovered and named long before The Port San Miguel of Cabrillo was named Port San Diego ; Cape Galera was named Cape Conception, the name now borne by it ; the Port of Pines was named Port Monterey. This was the last expedition made by the Spaniards along the coast of California for more than a hundred and sixty years. Various attempts were made to establish colonies, garrisons, and fishing or trading ports, on the eastern side of the peninsula of California, during the seven- teenth century, but all failed, either from the want of funds, the sterility of the country, or the hostility of the natives. The pearl fishery in the gulf was the principal bait that attracted the Spaniards, and they succeeded in obtaining a considerable quantity, some of which were very valuable. 20 HISTOfiY Of CALIFOBMU CHAPTER III. FROM THE FIRST SETTLEMENT TO THE REVOLUTION IN MEXICO. THE first establishment of the Spaniards in Califor- nia, was made by the Jesuits, in November, 1397. The settlement was called Loreto, and rounded on the eastern side of the peninsula, about two hundred miles from the Pacific. On entering California, tha Jesuits encountered the same obstacles which had before prevented a settlement of the country. The land was so sterile, that it scarcely yielded sustenance to the most industrious tiller, and as the settlements were all located near the sea, fishing was the resource of the settlers to make up the deficiency of food. The natives continued hostile, and killed several of the Jesuit fathers. By perseverance and kindness, the Jesuits overcame all the obstacles with which they met, and within sixty years after their entrance into Califor- nia, they had established sixteen missions, extending along the eastern side of the peninsula, from Cape San Lucas to the head of the gulf. ' Each of these establishments consisted of a church, a fort, garrisoned by a few soldiers, and some stores and dwelling-houses, all under the control of the resident Jesuit father. , Each of the missions formed the centre of a district / containing several villages of converted Indians. None I of the Jesuits visited the western coast of the peninsula \ except on one occasion, in 1716. Great exertions were made by the settlers to acquire HISTORY CALIFORNIA. 21 a knowledge of the geography, natural history and languages of the peninsula, and they appears to have been generally successful. The result of their re- searches were published in Madrid, in 1757, and the work was entitled a " History of California." They surveyed the whole coast of the Gulf of California, and, in 1709, Father Kuhn, one of the Jesuit fathers, ascertained beyond doubt the connection of the penin- sula with the continent, which had been denied for a century. But all the labors of the Jesuits were brougET to an end in 1767. In that year, Charles III. of Spain, issued a decree, banishing members of that order from the Spanish territories ; and a strong military force, under command of Don Gasper de Portola, was despatched to California, and soon put an end to the rule of the Jesuits by tearing them from their converts. The Spanish government did not intend to abandon California. The peninsula immediately became a province of Mexico, and was provided with a civil and military government, subordinate to the viceroy of that country. The mission fell under the rule of the Dominicans, and from their mode of treatment, most of the converts soon returned to their former state of barbarism. The Spaniards soon formed establishments on the western side of the peninsula. In the spring of 1769, a number of settlers, with some soldiers and Franciscan friars, marched through the peninsula to- wards San Diego. They reached the bay of San Diego after a toilsome journey, and the settlement on the shore of the bay was begun in the middle of May, 1769. An attempt was made, soon after, to establish a colony at Port Monterey ; but the party under Portola that went in search of the place, passed further 22 HISTORY OP CALIFORNIA. on to the bay of San Francisco, and could not retrace their steps before the cold weather set in, and they then returned to San Diego. The people left at San Diego had been several times attacked by the natives, and after the return of Portola's party they almost perished for want of food. But a supply arrived on the very day upon which they had agreed to abandon the place and return to Mexico. Portola again set out for Monterey, and there effected a settlement. Parties of emigrants from Mexico came to the western shore of California during the year 1770, and establish- ments were made on the coast between San Diego and Monterey. The multiplication of their cattle, inde- pendent of the fruits of agricultural labor, before 1775, made the settlers of Upper California able to resist the perils to which their situation exposed them. In order to give efficiency to the operations on the western coast of North America, the Spanish govern- ment selected the port of San Bias, in Mexico, at the entrance of the Gulf of California, for the establish- ment of arsenals, ship-yards and warehouses, and made it the centre of all operations undertaken in that quarter. A marine department was created for the special purpose of advancing the interests of the Spaniards in the settlement of the western shore of California. By the energy displayed in managing this department the Spaniards succeeded in making eight establishments on the Pacific coast between the California peninsula and Cape Mendocino, before 1779. The most southern post was San Diego, and the most northern, San Francisco, on the great bay of the same name. The establishments were almost entirely military and missionary, the object of the Spaniards being solely the occupation of the country, HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 28 The missions were under the control of the Francis- cans, who, unlike the Jesuits, took little care to exert themselves in procuring information concerning the country in which they were established. Various expeditions for exploring the coast of Upper California above Cape Mendocino, were made by tho Spaniards. One of these proceeded as far north as the latitude of 41 degrees, and some men were landed en the shores of a small bay, just beyond Cape Men- docino, and gave the harbor the name of Port Trinidad. The small river whioh flows into the Pacific near the place where they landed was called Pigeon River, from the great number of those birds in the neighborhood of it. The Indians appeared to be a peaceable and industrious race, and conducted themselves towards the Spaniards in the most inoffensive manner. In the same year, 1775, Bodega, a Spanish commander, returning from a voyage extended as far north as the 58th degree of latitude, discovered a small bay which had not previously been described, and he accordingly gave it his own name, which it still retains. This Bay of Bodega is situated a little north of the 38th degree of latitude. Few events worth recording occurred in California, during the whole period of fifty years, from the first establishment of the Spaniards on the western coast till the termination of the Mexican war of independence. An attempt of the Russians to form a settlement on the shores of the Bay of Bodego, in 1815, was met with a remonstrance from the governor of California. The remonstrance of the governor was disregarded, and his commands to quit the place disobeyed. The Rus- sian agent, Kushof, denied the right of the Spaniards to the territory, and the governor being unable to 24 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. enforce his commands, the intruders kept sion of the ground until 1840, when they left of theJ? own accord. CHAPTER IV. FROM THE REVOLUTION TILL THE WAR BETWEEN THJ UNITED STATES AND MEXICO. BEFORE the commencement of the struggle for inde- pendence in Mexico, the missions in California were, to some extent, fostered by the Spanish government, and supplies were sent to them regularly. But when the war began, the remittances were reduced, and the establishments soon began to decay. After the over- throw of the Spanish rule, in 1822, the territory of California was divided into two portions. The penin- sula was then called Lower California, and the whole of the continental territory called Upper California. When the Mexicans adopted a constitution, in 1824, each of these territories became entitled to send one representative to the National Congress. At the same time, the adult Indians who could be considered civilized, were declared citizens of the republic, and had lands given to them. This, of course, freed them from submission to the missionaries, who, thus deprived of their authority, either returned to Spain or Mexico, or took refuge in other lands. The Indians being free from restraint, soon sank to a low depth of bar- barism and vice. Immediately after the overthrow of the Spaniai HISTOBY OP CALIPOMC1A. 85 authorities, the ports of Califbrma began to b tht resort of foreigners, principally whalers and traders from the United States. The trade in which they engaged, that of exchanging manufactured goods for the provisions, hide and tallow furnished by the natives, was at first irregular, but as it increased, it became more systematic, and mercantile houses were established in the principal ports. The Mexican government became dissatisfied with this state of things, and ordered the governor of Upper California lo enforce the laws which prohibited foreigners from entering or residing in the territories of Mexico with- out a special permission from the authorities. Accord- ingly, in 1828, a number of American citizens were seized at San Diego, and kept in confinement until 1830. In that year, an insurrection broke out, headed by General Solis, and the captured Americana were of some assistance in suppressing it, and, in con- sideration of their services, they were permitted to leave the territory. The Mexican government strove to prevent the evils expected to flow from the presence of numbers of foreigners in California, by establishing colonies of their own citizens in the territory. A number of persons were sent out from Mexico, to settle on the lands of the missions, but they never reached their destination. The administration which originated the scheme was overthrown, and the new authorities ordered the settlers to be driven back to Mexico. In 1836, the federal system was abolished by the Mexi- can government, and a new constitution adopted, which destroyed all state rights, and established a central power. This was strenuously resisted in Cali- fornia. The people rose, and drove the Mexican B 6 HISTORY OF JALIFOKNIA. officers from the country, declaring that they remain independent until the federal constitution was restored. The general government issued strong pro- clamations against the Californians, and sent an expe- dition to re-establish its authority. But General Urrea, by whom the expedition was commanded, declared in favor of the federalists, and the inhabitants governed themselves until July, 1837, when they swore allegiance to the new constitution. Things went on quietly in California until 1842. In that year, Commodore Jones, while cruising in the Pacific, received information which led him to believe that Mexico had declared war against the United States. He determined to strike a blow at the sup- posed enemy, and, accordingly, he appeared before Monterey, on the 19th of October, 1842, with the frigate United States and the sloop-of-war Cyane. He demanded the surrender of all the castles, posts, and military places, on penalty, if refused, of the visi- tation of the horrors of war. The people were asto- nished. A council decided that no defence could be made, and every thing was surrendered at once to the unexpected Americans. The flag of the United States was hoisted, and the commodore issued a proclamation to the Californians, inviting them to submit to the government of the United States, which -would pro- tect them in the exercise of their rights. The procla- mation was scarcely issued, before the commodore became aware of the peaceable relations existing between the United States and Mexico, and he accord- ingly restored the possession of Monterey to the authorities, and retired with his forces to his ships, just twenty-four hours after the surrender. This affair irritated the inhabitants considerably, and, nc HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 27 doubt, tended to increase the ill-feeling before exist- ing between Mexico and the people of the United States. CHAPTER V. PBOM THE COMMENCEMENT OF THE WAR TILL ITS CLjoK. WAR was declared by Mexico against the United States, in May, 1846. The same month, orders were transmitted to Commodore Sloat, commanding the Pacific squadron, instructing him to protect the interests of the citizens of the United States near his station, and to employ his forces to the best advantage in operations directed against the Mexican territory on the Pacific. The fleet under Commodore Sloat was the largest the Americans ever sent to that quar- ter, and the men were anxious to commence active operations. Soon after receiving his first orders, the commodore was again instructed to take and keep possession of Upper California ; or, at least, of the principal ports. On the 8th of June, Commodore Sloat left Mazat- lan, in the flag-ship Savannah, and on the 2d of July, Beached Monterey, in Upper California. There he found the Cyane and Levant, and learned that the Portsmouth was at San Francisco, as previously arranged. On the morning of the 7th, Captain Mer- yine was sent to demand the surrender of Monterey. The Mexican commandant replied that he was not authorized to surrender the place, but referred Com- 28 HISTORY OF CALIFOR1TCA. modore Sloat to the commanding-general of Califiw nia. A force of two hundred and fifty marines and eea men was immediately landed, under Captain Mer ine, and they marched to the custom-house. There thej hoisted the American flag amid' cheers and a salute of twenty-one guns. The proclamation of Commodore Sloat was then read and posted about the town. After taking possession of Monterey, Commodoi Sloat despatched a courier to the commanding-gener 1 of California, summoning him to surrender every thiiig under his control in the country, and assuring hire of protection if he should comply. The general refused, and said he would defend the country as long as he could reckon on a single person to join his cause. A summons to surrender was also sent to the governor of Santa Barbara, but no answer was returned. Orders were despatched to Commander Montgomery, *n the Portsmouth, at San Francisco, directing him to take possession of the Bay of San Francisco, and hoist the flag of the United States at Yerba Buena. On the 9th of July, the day after the receipt of his orders, Montgomery landed at Yerba Buena with seventy seamen and marines, and hoisted the American flag in the public square, amid the cheers of the people. A proclamation was then posted to the flag staff, and Montgomery addressed the people. The greater part of the seamen and marines then returned to the ship, leaving Lieutenant H. B. Watson with a small guard, formally installed as military occupant of the post. Thirty-two of the male residents of Yerba Buena were enrolled as a volunteer corps, choosing their own officers. Lieutenant Missroon was despatched with a small party of these volunteers tc reconnoitre the Presidio and fort. He returned the HISTORY OP CALIFORNIA. 29 same day, and reported that the Presidio had been abandoned, and that the fort, seven miles from the town, was dilapidated and mounted only a few old pieces of cannon. The flag of the United States had been displayed from its ramparts. On the llth, Montgomery informed Commodore Sloat that the flag of the United States was then flying at Yerba Buena, Slitter's Fort, on the Sacramento, Bodega, on the coast, and Sonoma. The inhabitants of these places appeared^ to be satisfied with the protection afforded them by the Americans. On the 13th of July, Commodore Sloat sent a flag to the foreigners of the pueblo of San Jose, about seventy miles from Monterey, in the interior, and appointed a justice of the peace in place of the alcaldes. On the 15th, Commodore Stockton arrived at Mon- terey, in the frigate Congress ; and Commodore Sloat being in bad health, the command devolved upon Stockton, and Sloat returned home. The operations of Commodore Stockton, from the 23d of July to the 28th of August, 1846, have been rapidly sketched by himself in his despatches to the secretary of the navy. From these we condense a short account. On the 23d of July, the commodore organized the " California Battalion of Mounted Riflemen." Captain Fremont was appointed major, and Lieutenant Gil- lespie captain of the battalion. The next day, fhey were embarked on board the sloop-of-war Cyane, Commander Dupont, and sailed from Monterey for San Diego, in order to land south of the Mexican force, consisting of 500 men, under General Castro^ well fortified at a place three miles from the city. A few days afterwards, Commodore Stockton sailed in the Congress for San Pedro, thirty miles from Mont*- 30 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. rey, and having landed, marched for the MexicaE camp. When he arrived within twelve miles of the Mexicans, they fled in small parties, in different direc- tions. Most of the principal officers were afterwards taken, but the mounted riflemen not getting up in time, most of the men escaped. On the 13th of August, Commodore Stockton heing joined by eighty riflemen, under Major Fremont, entered the capital of California, Cuidad de los Angeles, or the "City of the Angels." Thus, in less than a month after Stockton's assuming command, the American flag was flying from every commanding position in California, conquered by three hundred and sixty men, mostly sailors. The form of government established in California, after the conquest, was as follows : The executive power was vested in a governor, holding office for four years unless sooner removed by the ^-asident of the United States. The governor was to reside in the territory, be commander-in- chief of the army thereof, perform all the duties of a superintendent of Indian affairs, have a pardoning and reprieving power, com- mission all persons appointed to office under the laws of said territory, and approve all laws passed by the legislature before they took effect. There was the office of the Secretary of the Territory established, whdSe principal duty was to preserve all the laws and proceedings of the legislative council, and all the acts and proceedings of the governor. The legislative power was vested in the governor and a council of seven persons, who were to be appointed by the governor at first, and hold their office for two years ; afterwards they were to be elected by the people. All the laws ->f Mexico, and the municipal officers 3xis*ing in thf HI8TOBT OF CALIFORNIA. 81 territory before the conquest, were continued antU altered by the governor and council. On the 15th of August, 1846, Commodore Stockton adopted a tariff of duties on all goods imported fro foreign parts, of fifteen per cent, ad valorem, and tonnage duty of fifty cents per ton on all foreign ves- sels. On the 15th of September, when the election! were held, Walter Colton, the chaplain of the frigate Congress, was elected Alcalde of Monterey. In th* mean time, a newspaper called the " Californian," tad been established by Messrs. Colton and Semple. Thia was the first newspaper issued in California. Early in September, Commodore Stockton withdrew his forces from Los Angeles, and proceeded with his squadron to San Francisco. Scarcely had he arrived when he received intelligence that all the country below Monterey was hi arms and the Mexican flag again hoisted. The Californians invested the " City of the Angels," on the 23d of September. That place was guarded by thirty riflemen under Captain Gillespie, and the Californians investing it numbered 300. Finding himself overpowered, Captain Gillespie capitulated on the 30th, and thence retired with all the foreigners aboard of a sloop-of-war, and sailed for Monterey. Lieutenant Talbo-t, who commanded only nine men at Santa Barbara, refused to surrender, and marched out with his men, arms in hand. The frigate Savannah was sent to relieve Los Angeles, but she did not arrive till after the above events had occurred Her crew, numbering 320 men, landed at San Pedro and marched to meet the Californians. About half way between San Pedro and Los Angeles, about fifteen miles from their ship, the sailors found the tnemy drawn up on a plain. The Californiana were 82 HISTORF OF CALIFORNIA. mounted on fine horses, and with artillery, had every advantage. The sailors were forced to retreat with a loss of five killed and six wounded. Commodore Stockton came down in the Congress to San Pedro, and then marched for the " City of the Angels," the men dragging six of the ship's guns. At the Rancho Sepulvida, a large force of the Californians was posted. Commodore Stockton sent one hundred men forward to receive the fire of the enemy and then fall back upon the main body without returning it. The main body was formed in a triangle, with the guns hi J by the men. By the retreat of the advance party, the enemy were decoyed close to the main force, when the wings were extended and a deadly fire openei upon the astonished Californians. More than a hun* dred were killed, the same number woiyided, and their whole force routed. About a hundred prisoners were taken, many of whom were at the time on parole and had signed an obligation not to take up arms during the war. Commodore Stcckton soon mounted his men and prepared for operations on shore. Skirmishes followed, and were continually occurring until January, 1847, when a decisive action occurred. General Kearny had arrived in California, after a long and painful march overland, and his co-operation was of great service to Stockton. The Americans left San Diego on the 29th of December, to march to Los Angeles. The Californians determined to meet them on their route, and decide the fate of the country in a general battle. The American force amounted to six hundred men, and was composed of detachments from the ships Congress, Savannah, Portsmouth and Cyane, aided by General Kearny, with sixty men on foot, from the HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 6'4 first regiment of United States dragoons, and Captain Gillespie with sixty mounted riflemen. The troops marched one hundred and ten miles in ten days, and, on the 8th of January, they found the Californians in a strong position on the high bank of the San Gabriel river, with six hundred mounted men and four pieces of artillery, prepared to dispute the passage of the river. The Americans waded through the water, dragging their guns with them, exposed to a galling fire from the enemy, without returning a shot. When they reached the opposite shore, the Californians charged upon them, but were driven back. They then charged up the bank and succeeded in driving the Californians from their post. Stockton, with his force, continued his march, and the next day, in cross- ing the plains of Mesa, the enemy made another attempt to save their capital. They were concealed with their artillery in a ravine, until the AmericanE came within gun-shot, when they opened a brisk fire upon their right flank, and at the same time charged both their front and rear. But the guns of the Cali- fornians were soon silenced, and the charge repelled. The Californians then fled, and the next morning the Americans entered Los Angeles without opposition. The loss of the Americans in killed and wounded did not exceed twenty, while that of their opponents reached between seventy and eighty. These two battles decided the contest in California. General Flores, governor and commandant-general of the Californians, as he styled himself, immediately after the Americans entered Los Angeles, made his escape and his troops dispersed. The territory be- came again tranquil, and the civil government was soon in operation again in the places where it had 34 HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. baan interrupted by the revolt. Commodore Stockton and General Kearny having a misunderstanding about their respective powers, Colonel Fremont exercised the duties of governor and Commander-in- chief of California, declining to obey the orders of General Kearny. The account of the adventures and skirmishes with which the small force of United States troops under General Kearny met, while on tiieir march to San Diego, in Upper California, is one of the most in- teresting to which the contest gave birth. The party, which consisted of one hundred men when it started from Santa F, reached Warner's rancho, the fron- tier settlement in California, on the Sonoma route, on the 2d of December, 1846. They continued their march, and on the 5th were met by a small party of volunteers, under Captain Gillespie, sent out by Com- modore Stockton to meet them, and inform them of the revolt of the Californians. The party encamped for the night at Stokes's rancho, about forty miles from San Diego. Information was received that an armed party of Californians was at San Pas- qual, three leagues from Stokes's rancho. A party of dragoons was sent out to reconnoitre, and they re- turned by two o'clock on the morning of the 6th. Their information determined General Kearny to attack the Californians before daylight, and arrange- ments were accordingly made. Captain Johnson was given the command of an advance party of twelve dragoons, mounted upon the best horses in possession of the party. Then followed fifty dragoons, under Captain Moore, mounted mostly on the tired mules they had ridden from Santa F a distance of 1050 miles. Next came about twenty volunteers, under HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 8fi Captain Gibson. Then followed two mountain howit- zers, with dragoons to manage them, under charge of Lieutenant Davidson. The remainder of the dragoons and volunteers were placed under command of Major Swords, with orders to follow on the trail with the Oaggage. As the day of December 6th dawned, the onemy at 8an. Pasqual were seen to be already in the saddle, and Captain Johnson, with his advance guard, made a furious charge upon them ; he being supported by the dragoons, the Californians at length gave way. They had kept up a continual fire from the first appearance of the dragoons, and had done considerable execution. Captain Johnson was shot dead in his first charge. The enemy were pursued by Captain Moore and his dragoons, and they retreated about half a mile, when seeing an interval between the small advance party of Captain Moore and the main force coming to his support, they rallied their whole force, and charged with their lances. For five minutes they held the ground, doing considerable execution, until the arrival cf the rest of the American party, when they broke tad fled. The troops of Kearny lost two captains, a lieutenant, two sergeants, two corporals, and twelve privates. Among the wounded were General Kearny, Lieutenant Warner, Captains Gillespie and Gibson, one sergeant, one bugleman, and nine privates. The Californians carried off all their wounded and dead except six. On the 7th the march was resumed, and. near San Bernardo, Kearny's advance encountered and defeated a small party of the Californians who had taken post on a hill. At San Bernardo, the troops remained till the morning of the llth, when they were joined by a 36 HISTORY OP CALIFORNIA. party of sailors and marines, under Lieutenant Gray They then proceeded upon their march, and on the 12th, arrived at San Diego ; having thus completed a tiarch of eleven hundred miles through an enemy's country, with but one hundred men. The force of General Kearny having joined that of Commodore Stockton, the expedition against Los Angeles, of which we have given an account in this chapter, was successfully consummated, and tranquillity restored in California. General Kearny and Commodore Stock- ton returned to the United States in January, 1847, leaving Colonel Fremont to exercise the office of governor and military commandant of California. .No further events of an importance worth recording occur- red till the treaty of peace between the United States and Mexico. CHAPTER VI. DISCOVERT OF THE GOLD PLACERS. BY the treaty concluded between the United States and Mexico, in 184T, the territory of Upper Califor- nia became the property of the United States. Little thought the Mexican government of the value of the land they were ceding, further than its commercial importance ; and, doubtless, little thought the buyers of the territory, that its soil was pregnant with a wealth untold, and that its rivers flowed over golden beds. This territory, now belonging to the American HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA. 87 Union, embraces an area of 448,961 square ailes. It extends along the Pacific coast, from about the thirty- second parallel of north latitude, a distance of near ceven hundred miles, to the forty-second parallel, the southern boundary of Oregon. On the eust, it is bounded by New Mexico. During the fang period which transpired between its discovery and its cession to the United States, this vast tract of country was frequently visited by men of science, from all parts of the world. Repeated examinations were made by learned and enterprising officers and civilians ; but none of them discovered the important fart, that the mountain torrents of the Sierra Nevada were con- stantly pouring down their golden san'ls into the valleys of the Sacramento and San Joaquin. The glittering particles twinkled beneath their feet, in the ravines which they explored, or glistened in the water- courses which they forded, yet they passed them by unheeded. Not a legend or tradition was heard among the white settlers, or the aborigines, that attracted their curiosity. A nation's ransom lay within their grasp, but, strange to say, it escaped their notice it flashed and sparkled all in vain.* The Russian American Company had a. large establishment at Ross and Bodega, ninety milea north of San Francisco, founded in the year 1812 ; and factories were also established in the territory by the Hudson Bay Company. Their agents and employes ransacked the whole country west of the Sierra Nevada, or Snowy Mountain, in search of game. In 1838, Captain Sutter, formerly an officer in the Swiss * A gold placera was discovered some years ago, neat the missioo f San Fernando, but it was very little worked, on account of the want of water. $8 HISTOBT OP CALIFORNIA. Guards of Charles X., King of France, emigite