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JOURNAL

S. GosKiLt, Printer,
Little Queen Stiect, Holbor*

OU A

ROUTE,

JOURNAL

OF A

ROUTE TO NAGPORE,

BY THE WAY OF

CUTTAE, BURROSUMBER,

THE SOUTHERN BUN J A RE GHAUT,

IN THE YEAR 1790 :

WITH AX

ACCOUJfT OF J¥AGPORE,

AND A

JOURNAL FROM THAT PLACE

BENARES,

BY THE

SOOHAGEE PASS.

■•> i ? ■& ■'•■
By DANIEL ROBINSON J.ECKIE, Esq.

ILLUSTKATED WITH A MAP.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY.
1800.

ADVERTISEMENT.

J. HE following flieets are a Journal which my brother,
when very young, kept, and intended only for my
perufal ; but as it appears that the route he took
was through a part of India left blank in Major Ren-
nell's Map, and laid down as little known to Rurcpeans^
it is oifered to the Public in fome meafure to fill the
chafm, until more perfeft materials (hall be produced
towards completing that celebrated work.

14th April, 1800.

G. F. LECKIE.

ti5v993

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE

NAGPORE,

BY THE WAY OF

CUTTAE, BURROSUMBER, DONGUR GHUR,

AND THE

SOUTHERN BUN J ARE GHAUT,

In the Months of March, April, May, to ihe 3d of June,
1790.

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE,

&:c. &c.

UILES.

Sunday y March 7,

1 6 JJEPARTED from Calcutta at fix in the eVefling, arid

arrived at Pulta Ghaut at nine o'clo ck.

Monday 8. Halted, and fent the baggage acrofs the

river.
12 Tuefday 9.* To Seinkole.
jQ Wednefday 10. To Diverhutta.

Q Thurfday 1 1 . To Miapore.
12 Friday 12. To Dewaungunge.
J 2 Saturday 13. To Kerpoy.

«Q Sunday 14. To Midnapore.

* Any obfervations on the face of the country from Calcutta io Jella-
fore appear as fuperfluous as a journal from Windfor to Kew«

a JOURNAL OF A miles.

lOl

Monday 15. Halted.

luefday 16. Halted.

Wednefday 17. To Mookrimpoor. 16

Ihurfday 18. To a fmall village beyond Narraingurh. 14

Friday 19. Two miles beyond Dantoon, on the 10
banks of a tank.

Saturday 20. Pafled through Jellafore ; crofTed the 16
Soobunreka, and encamped to the S. W of Colonel
Cockerell's detachment. My elephant unfortunately
run a piece of bamboo into his foot, and I (hould have
been unable to have proceeded had it not been for the
civility of Colonel Cockerell, who ordered me a camp
elephant to Balafore.

Sunday 21. The road was uneven, over fields, and 15
as we advanced into the Merhattah territory there was
lefs appearance of cultivation and inhabitants. We
crofTed two or three nullahs, or rivulets, and palTed the
Chokey, or Station of Bufta, to the right : there are
only a few horfemen as a guard. We encamped at the
village of Burrampore, in company with Lieutenant

172

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. -

172

Maxwell, Eiifigns Stokoe and Spotifv/oode> Mr. Foriler
having proceeded alone to Balafore, by the defire of
Colonel Cockerell, to fettle with the foujdar of that
place regarding the fupplies for the detachment. —
Courfe nearly S.
10 Monday 22. The road was tolerably good, and the
country bore a more cultivated appearance than v;hat
we faw yefterday ; we paiTed the village of Ramchun-
derpoor, where there is a fort of mud ; croffed the
Soane at the Poolary Ghaut at low water, and arrived
at Balafore at eight o'clock.

Balasore was formerly a flourlililng port, but their
manufactory of the Sanaes (properly Sehun) cloths is very
much fallen off, both in quality and quantity ; and the
ruinous flate of the Englifh and Dutch fadories, with
the infignificance of the Danifli one, feem to fhow that
the trade is not of that confequence which it formerly
was. The government is directed by a foujdar, a civil
officer, having military authority, named Morah Pundit.
He collefts the revenue from Neelgurh, and remits it,
182 B 2

4 JOURNAL OF A whiles.

182
together with the annual tribute from the Rajah of Mohr

Bunj, to Cuttae. IMorah Pundit came to pay Mr.

Forfter a vifit at the fadlorj, mounted on an elephant,

and attended by ten horfe and thirty matchlockmen.

He is a tall, good-looking man, and wears the habit of

the Decan Moguls. Few compliments palTcd, and the

converfation turned upon the provifions to be fupplied

for the detachment whilft it was palling through the

Merhattah territory.

As I had heard much, and feen nothing, of Merhattah
horfenien, I was particular in obferving them. They
ride with very fhort flirrups, infomuch that their thighs
are in an horizontal pofitlon with the faddle, which is
made of cloths or filk, according to the ability and fancy
of the rider, thickly quilted ; and they have a firm feat.
Their arms are fometimes matchlocks, with fwords and
ihields, but moft commonly the fpear, which they ufe
with great dexterity.

The country round about Balafore has a pleafant ap-
pearance, and my eye was very much relieved by the

4 182

<Jb

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 5

182

profpeft of the Neelgarh hills, after having been ufed

to the dead flat of Bengal for near four years,

Tuefday 23. Halted at Balafore.

16 Wednefday 24. A good road to the village of By-
gonea, where we encamped. — Courfe S.W.

14 Ihurfday 25. Road good, partly through a jungle ;
pafTed a large tank to the right on entering the village
of Surrow ; proceeded to Kauns Bauns Nudde, where
we encamped at the foot of a bridge thrown over it.
The water of the ftream was excellent.— Courfe S. and
by W.

I could not learn by whom the bridge had been built,
but it may be furmifed during the reign of Aurungzebe,
when the fplendour of the empire caufed works of this
nature to be performed fo remote from the capital.
Whilft we were here, fome bearers, who had been fer*
vants in Calcutta, brought us fruit and milk, and were
very civil. Moft of the bearers called Balafore bearers
come from this place and its environs ; fo they cannot
212

6 JOURNAL OF A miles.

2 12

with any degree of propriety be called Balafore bearers,
as this place belongs to Cuttae.

Friday 26. Road good; palTed the village of Simle 17
and Goovindpoor, to the right and left: came to a tank
of water, called Ranneka Tallow, at about fix miles
from Kauns Bauns. This is the only water to be met
with till you come to Budrue. Proceeded from thence
through a plain, open country, to the village of Budrue ;
to the fouth of which, after eroding the Soolundee
Nudde, we encamped in a delightful mangoe grove.

Mr. Motte remarks, when he paiTed this place in 1769,
that there was a manufaftory of fine cloths : nothing
but coarfe are now made.

The thieves of this place are notorious. Colonel
Peirce was robbed in the midll of his camp. We doubled
our guards and efcaped. — Courfe nearly S.

Saturday 27. Palled, at the diftance of a mile, Saut- 10
bienne Ka ToUow ; crofied the Toonda Nulla, ankle
deep. PafTed, at three miles, Choracooka, to the left,
and went through a ftream and ferai of the fame name

239

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 7

239

adjoining. CrolTed the lye Nudee, and encamped to the

weftward of Daumneger, on the banks of a tank of fine
water. The country is woody. — Courfe, firft part,
S. E. latterly S.
12 Sunday 28. Road woody to the Gaimtee river, which
we croiTed where it was entirely dry. We then pafied
through the town of Jangepore, which during the Mogul
government was a place of feme confequence, and there
are yet many remains of their buildings, particularly
a mofque and mehl ferai, or women's apartments, within
the walls, of which the prefent Merhattah officer has
erefted a bungalo. The following verfes will point out
the sera; :

** May the ftandard of King Aurungzebe be difplayed
while the world exifts!!! The pure Nawaub of high
dignity erected a mofque in the town of Jangepore, be-
yond the power of language to defcribe, from the dome
of whofe roof the heavens appear low. Hear, O ye
bead-tellers ! if you make this place your afylum for a
night."
251

g JOURNAL OF A miles.

251
As the conftruftor of this mofque was Abow NeiTur

Khan, the age hi which he hved will ferve as its

date. The builder, with the vanity of a Muflulman,

is very extravagant in the praifes of his mofque, though

it is very ill-proportioned, having a large dome, with

ihort pillars. We encamped, havhig firll: crolTcd the

Bittunie and CaiToah rivers, in which there was water,

in a mangoe grove on the banks of the latter. — Courfe

S. and by W.

Monday 29. Went through the village of Burwa, 15

pafTed a tank to the left, croiTed a bridge, with four

centre and four corner minarets, and the Bomine and

Komrea rivers ; croiTed the Gainkel again, pafled through

the village of Arckpore, and encamped about a mile

beyond it, in a fine mangoe grove, where we had the

water of the river. — Courfe S. and by W. The road

from Burwa to Arckpore lies in a fine broad valley, but

the cultivation of it appears to be in a neglefted flate ;

but when we confider the fyflem of government of the

native princes, which pays little regard to the ability

266

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. q

266

of the cultivator, and the frequent introcIu6l:ion of
rapacious foldiery, deferted villages and uncultivated
plains become more matter for grief than furprife.
14 T^uefday 30. PaiTed the Burpah and Jeipore nuddees
to the right; came to Luckunpoor ferai; palTedGopej-
nautpoor ; road good : arrived at Pudumpoor. There
is a tank of good water on the left on entering the town,
and one of bad on leaving it. We encamped in a man-
goe grove, a quarter of a mile beyond it.
10 Wednefday 31. Road good to the banks of the
Mahanuddy : there was little water in it, and where we
croffed, at the Anifa Ghaut, it was fordable ; but the
fands, which are on either fide of the flream, are deep,
and about three miles acrofs. We were met on the
banks of the river by a party of horfemen, who told
us that the Rajah did not willi we fhould encamp at
Nuyeenah Baugh ; but we explained to them that we
were not a part of the detachment, and were going to
Nagpore : upon which we proceeded thither without
opposition.
290 c

10 JOURNAL OF A mii-b«.

290

About two miles from Cuttae, to the weft, at the foot situation

' ofCuuae.

of a Hhidoo temple, the Cutjoora, feparating itfelf from
the Mahamiddy, flows to the fouthward of the town, while
the Mahanuddy, pafTmg under the fort of Beerbauty to
the north, bends its courfe to the bay of Coojungh, where,
together with the Cutjoora, it falls into the fea, infulating
the fpot in the form of a Delta (^). The land, from the
point of feparation of the waters, on one fide as far as
the town, and to the fort of Beerbauty on the other,
is defended by a ftrong ftone embankment, which pre-
ferves the place from inundation in the rains. It is a
great work. The ftone is of the country : apparently
a concretion of fand ; which is foft when dug out of
the quarry, and acquires durability by expofure to the
air. There are fteps cut in the embankment, and feveral
temples on the Cutjoora bank for the convenience of
bathing, and performing the Poojeh in the rains. But
the ftream lies above a mile off at this feafon of the
year.

There is a number of brick and ftone buildings : Building*.

4 ^90

mLEs. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. li

290

amongft which are, the Laul Baugh, the reiidence of
the Rajah, iituated on the Cutjoora, furronnded by a high
Hone wall with gateways ; feveral rehgious edifices, both
Hindoo and Mahomedan, particularly a very handfome
mofque, built by the order of Zeebul Niflau Khanum,
Aurungzebe's daughter, during the government of Ek-
raum Khan. The fort of Beerbautty, to the north-
ward of the town, is furrounded by a wet ditch, about
150 feet broad, which is fupplled from the Mahanuddy
by a channel covered with large ll:ones. It is built of
the ftone already mentioned, and the walls do not ap-
pear thick or in good repair. There are embrafures for
cannon only in the baftions, in the parapet, and curtain
loopholes.
Force. From the moft accurate information I could procure,
I found that the whole force confifts of 1000 Merhattah
and 150 Seik horfemen, and 500 irregular foot, little
better than rabble.
Revenue The Soubahdar, as he is ftyled, Rajah Ram Pundit,

to Go- ''

is now at Nagpore, whither he is generally fummoned
290 c 2

12' JOURNAL or A MILES.

290

once in two or three years, to give in his accounts. His
tenure is on the footing of that of a farm : he pays the
Rajah of Nagpore 10 lacks of rupees out of the collec-
tions, which are eftimated at 22 lacks, including what is
fent from Balafore : the reriiainder the Soubahdar applies
to his own ufe, the pay of the foldicrs, &c. &c. — He
generally returns from Nagpore well fleeced; for he is
obliged to make confiderable prefents to retalnh is office ^
when, to make up his own private loffes, and to realize
the ufual revenue, the blow falls with redoubled weight
on the wretched inhabitants of his dillrifts. Gowrauno-
Rov, a Bengale by defcent, born at Cuttae, is the in-
flrument he makes ufe of; and fuch is the utter deteft-
ation that he is held in, that a poor man will not utter
his name, for they fay it brings mifery with it. — Piles
of fkuUs and bones lie fcattered in and near the town:
a rfiiferable fpeftacle! at which humanity fhudders ;
and the ftreets are crowded with beggars ftarved almoll
to death. They frequently furrounded my tent, and
I could not fliut my ears to the cries of wretchedncfs.

290

MiLEr. ' ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 13

290

I could not help drawing a comparlfon between the
wretched ftate of thefe people and thofe under the pro-
tection of the Britilli government ; and only wifli that
Mr. B. could be a fpeflator of what I have feen, .

There is very little fpecie in gold and filver in cir-
culation, and the rents are paid in cowries, I imagine
the greateft branches of the revenue arc the culloms,
and tax upon pilgrims going to Jugurnaut. A bullock-
load of filk is taxed at fix rupees ; and fo on in propor-
tion to the bulk and value of the load. Pilo-rims from the

Decan pay fix rupees ; thofe from Bengal, who are ge-
nerally richer, ten;rupees. They however are notfevere
in the exaction when they think the party reallv poor i
and they make up their lofs occafioned by this lenitv
when they find out a wealthy fubjefl: in difguife, which
is frequently the cafe.

Tburfciqy, April i . At Cuttae, .

Friday 2. Ditto.

Saturday 3. Ditto.

Sunday 4. Ditto »
290

14 Journal of a miles.

290

Monday 5. Enfigii Stokoe proceeded towards the
fouthward, to fix the encamping ground of the detach-
ment.

The Rajah's fon, Sudafheveraou, paid Mr. Forfter a
vilit. He was mounted on a fmall elephant, which he
rode with a faddle, and was attended by the Dewaun,
the Kelladaur of Beerbautty, the Paymafter of the
troops, &c. horfemen and footmen. He is a young man,
black and fhort. His drefs was a fhort jacket of white
cloth, with a piece of loofe fine linen thrown over his
fhoulders, filk drawers, and a turban and handfome dia-
mond bracelets. He fcarcely fpoke ; but the Dewaun
talked as much as four people. We received tliem
under an awning, and we were all feated in the manner
of the Eaft, upon a white cloth fpread upon a carpet.
The ceremony of the diftribution of otter and paun bet-
ing over, the company broke up.

Tuefday 6. At Cuttae.

Wednefday 7. Colonel Cockerell's detachment ar-
rived, and I went in the morning to be prefent at the

2^9,0

MILES, ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 15

290

meeting of the Rajah's fon with the Colonel, and ac-
companied him to Laul Baugh in the evening, to return
the vifit. Lieutenant Maxwell and Enfign Spottifwoode
left us, and joined the detachment, having been relieved
by Lieutenant James Davidfon, the officer commanding
the efcort ordered with us to Nagpore.

Thurfclay 8. At Cuttae,

Friday 9. Ditto.

Saturday 10. Ditto.

Sunday 1 1 . Ditto.

Monday 12, Ditto.

J'u£fday 13. Ditto.

Wednefday 14. Ditto.

Thirfday 15. Returned the Rajah's fon's vifit.

Friday 16. At Cuttae.

Saturday 17. Ditto.

Ditring tke time we were at Cuttae it was In general
cool and pleafkat ; the wind from the S. E. ; but ftormy
and rainy in the night.
3 Sunday 18. Crofled the Mahanuddy in boats, and
551

1 6 JOURNAL OF A miles.

293
encamped in a mangoc grove ; fituated about W. and

by N. from Niigeenah Baugh.

Monday 19. I went into tbe village in the morning,
and could perceive where the Cutjoora fcparates itfelf
from the Mahanuddy, which is to the fouthward of the
Dewul, or Hindoo temple, before mentioned.

I'uejclay 20. Remarkably cool in the morning, but
at twelve o'clock it became very fultry, and the ther-
mometer rofe to 100°.

Wednefclay 2 1 . Mr. Forfter received at twelve o'clock 1 4
at night Colonel Cockerell's long-wiflied-for letter, in-
forming him that all the detachment had crofled the
Chilca Lake, that the object of his refidence at Cuttae
was completed, and that he might proceed to Nagpore :
'we accordingly marched in a few hours afterwards.
The firll part of the road was narrow, and led through the
village, with the river* to our left. Beyond that, although
there is a great deal of wood, there are fome open fpots

* By the river is meant the Mahanuddy.

3 •

307

MILES. N ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 17

307

of ground, which are crowded with game ; as hares, pea-
cocks. Sec.

The lail: four miles of the road were full of trees, and
the elephants were ia a fmall degree obftrufted. We
went under a gaut, called Raoutoragurh, and encamped
at the village of Nundeilt, about a mile beyond it, having
Kunderpoor in our front. — Courfe S. W.
1 2 "Thurfday 2 2 . The firft part of the road was rocky
and bad. PaiTed the villages of Ifliea, Noa, Patna, and
Soobunpoor: the two firft are fmall, and the latter is
large. CrolTed the river in an oblic[ue direftion, and
encamped at Simlea, a fmall village.
15 Friday 23. For three miles, to the village of Cutch-
kie, the road was narrow, with trees on either fide, and
frequent openings to the river. PafTed the villages of
Berau and Golgong ; the former about fix miles diiiant
from Cutchkie, the latter nine. The elephants were
rather impeded by the branches of trees. After leaving
the village of Berau the country becomes more open.
The Mahanuddy is near the road, and to the right; and

334 »

,S JOURNAL OF A miles.

334
there nrc ranges of hills on both fides of it. The valley

is well cultivated. We encamped at Baidillnvore, on

the banks of the Nulla, which joins the Mahanuddy. —

Our courfe was nearly S. W.

Satnrdav i±. The elephants went round the hill, at i6
the foot of which the village is fituated: the horfes and
foot pafTengers kept on the road at the bottom, which
in fome places was very craggy and uneven. We paffed
the villages of Beerpara at three miles, Kurbara at five,
Budumunt at fevcn, Pudmawuttie at thirteen, andCul-
laub at fifteen, from Baidifliwore ; and encamped in a fine
mangoe grove on the entrance into the village of Cuttoo,
in which there are two wells : the road was very good,
and near the banks of the river, and between Budumunt
and Pudmawuttie partly over the fands of it. The hills
on each fide of the river are high, and on the north fide
the ranges are triple. — Courfe S.W.

Cutloo is an extenfive market. The merchants of
the Decan bring cotton and other articles ; and thofe from
Cuttae, and the northern circars, import fugar, tin, cop-

3 350

MH.Fs. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 19

350

per, fait, and filk. The trade Is all fettled by a mutual

barter. The walls of the houfes are built of red earth,
llrengthened by bamboos in the middle, and they are
difpofed in more regular form than the houfes in Bengal,
but are badly thatched. The inhabitants drink well-
water, as the courfe of the river lies on the oppofite
bank, and the water is fo troubled in the rains that it is
unfit for ufe.
1 2 Sunday 25. Struck off to the left through a field, and
entered a bamboo jungle, which was ftony and craggy.
The elephants and loaded cattle kept more to the right
after leaving the field, and avoided the jungle. We
then proceeded about two miles over the bed of the
river, and returned again to the bank, when the road
became better and the hills nearer on each fide. There
is a fingle hill to the right, which intervenes between the
river and the road ; it is high, and near it is a chokey,
called Cundeapara, at about eight miles difiance from
Cutloo. After pafiing the village of Lungracunta, a
mile further, we encamped in a fpacious mangoe grove,

'^62 D 2

zo JOURNAL OF A ^rri.r.s.

362-

near the viliacnj of Bealpara, under Trliicli the river
jQows. — Our courfe was about W.

Mondav 26. The road lav throuo;h a thick foi-eft,. t -r
and tlie hills to the right and left were nearer than they
were vefterday. The people fay tigers arc numerous.
"We encamped in a mangoe grove at the entrance into
the village of Burramool. The fituation of this place
is very romantic: the hills on either fide approximating,
leave only a fmall fpace, through which the Mahanuddy
flows in a winding courfe, and form the pafs of the Bur-
ramool, which they juftly ftyle the Weftern gate of the
country dependant on Cuttae. This village, and the ad-
jacent country, called DufpuUah, for about fourteen cofs,
belongs to a Zemindar, whofe ftrong fituation has rendered
him almoft independent of the Merhattahs : and the pre-
fent Rajah of Nagpore, Ragojee, has given up the confi-
deration of his peihkufli, or tribute, and conferred upon
him the Nifiiaun and Meraukib colours and arms, on con-
dition that he will grant free egrefs and regrefs to his fub-
jects over his fide of the Burramool Pafs. The Zemindar's

379

HtLEs. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. zi

379 _

vakeel came in the evenino;. He feemed rather to de-

mand a complimentary prefent from us, than afk. it: but

v/e told him, that if he would go on with us to the next

llage, at CuiTumgurh, and behaved himfclf properly, we

would not let him depart unfatisfied. — He left us, and

promifed to fend guides at twelve o'clock at night, when

we intended marching.

21 'Inefday 27. When we arofe, w^e fent people into

the village to eet g^^iides, but thev refufed to come until

daybreak, and appeared to be very turbulent. It was

fortunately moonlight ; and the baggage, preceded by

a Jemadaur and twelve Sepoys, and followed by the reft

as a rear-guard, v/ent on without oppofition. The road

for fix miles is very good, v/ithout any perceptible afcent;

for two miles it is indiiferent ; and the remainder of

the diftance, to the fummit, for four miles, is very

rocky and bad, and for the laft 500 yards very deep.

There are two hills on each fide of the ghaut. AVhcn

I had arrived within two miles of the fummit the moon

fet, and as I had left all the lights with the baggage I

400 - 2

2> JOURNAL OF A *"^'^^^-

400

was obliged to feel for the p:\th with my hands : when
I paifed the tank, called Pudumtallai, on the top, it was
dark. I iinderiland that there is a chokey of a few
pvkes there, and that it is the eaitern extremity of the
zemindary of the Rajah of Boad, with whom the Mer-
hattahs have entered into the fame mutual contraft as
with the Zemindar of Dufpulluh. The dcfcent from
Pudumtallai to CulTumgurh, near which we encamped,
is (jradual and eafv. There is a bamboo fort: it is out
of the high road. We were obliged to dig for water on
the bed of a nullah. There is a tank in the village,
where the elephants went to wafli, but the water was
bad. — Our courle was irrec^ular, but inclined to the
we 11 ward.

JVednefday 28. The road was good: we croiTed the j2
beds of two nullahs, which were broad, and palled two
villages, the lall called Beinfghorau, at feven miles from
Cuffumgurh, and encamped at the village of Pungurha,
on the banks of the river. — Courfe W. N.Vn'".

Ihurjday 29. The road was very good, and in ge- 12

424

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGFORE. 45

424

neral led through a thick wood. After croiTing the beds

of two nullahs we paiTed Ramgurh, where the country
is more open, and encamped in a mangoe grove about
two miles beyond it, clofe upon the banks of the river,
which is rocky and deep, and bears a beautilul appear-
ance. At forty minutes pafi: four o'clock A. M. there
was a total eclipfe of the moon. — Courfe W.S.W.
10 Friday 30. The road was excellent and the country
open. We crolTed the beds of two dry nullahs, which
were broad, at about three miles diitance. We palTed
by the village of Quoid, to the right, which is fortified
in the country manner with clumps of bamboos : we ar-
rived at Boad at fix o'clock.— Courfe nearly N.W. owing
to a turn which the river takes : and it will be found
the dire£tion of the road is governed by the fituation of
the river, as water is fcarce in that country.

Saturday, May i. Halted at Boad.

The Rajah paid us a vifit ; he is an old man, and of
very decent deportment: he came in a palankeen, and
had the Chetz, Nilhaun, and Merautib, and a number

434

C4 JOURNAL OF A milks.

434

of people attending him. He is a Rnipoot, and his famil}'
has heen in poficliion of Boad for a long fcries of years.
His country is a fine valley, and the inhabitants appear to
be rather numerous than othervvife. Boad extends from
the Burramool Gaut to the eaftward, to the jun£tion of
the Tail Nudde with the Mahanuddy to the weil;vvard,
and is confined on north and fouth by the hills on each
lide of the river. The villag-e isfmall: there is a bam-
boo fort. The only remarkable objefts I faw were fome
pagodas, dedicated to the Maha Dcu ; the figures carved
on the outfide were very light, and better executed than
any thing of the fort I ever faw. It is curious to obferve,
that in OrifTa the bramins do not officiate in the pa-
godas, but the gardeners. In my walk this evening I
met with a bramin, an intelligent man; he told me that
the Rajah jMuddoo Soodur was very ill obeyed, and that
he received no revenue from his country, and only a
fmall amount in kind for the ufe. of himfclf and family,
which was paid from fome of the villages in the imnic-
diate vicinity of Boad.

434

MILES. ROUTE TO XAGPORE. 25

434

He faid it was othervvife during the government of the

Rajah's brother, who died about two years ago ; he was
dreaded by all the petty Zemindars, and received a tri-
bute equal to 5000 rupees per annum.
17 Sunday 2. Country open, and fine road. PaiTed the
village of Comarhara to the right, at about four miles
from Boad. Crofl'ed the Sunklee Nuddee, a clear
ftream, ankle deep : there is a fort and a village near it,
called Mirzadhore, fituated on the hither lide. From
thence the road lies through a thin foreft, in which I faw
a great number of deer : when we had got clear of it we
came on to a plain, on which Byraghur is fituated; but
finding no flicker we proceeded two miles fai'ther, and
encamped under the fhade of fome peepul and dauk
trees. There is a jeel and a well of water, which are
both bad ; but there is a tope near the river fide, which we
did not fee till we had encamped. The Rajah of Boad
had fent a man along with us, and ordered the people
at Byraghur to fell us provifions; and we received great
451 E

26 JOURNAL OF A MtLEs-

civility from all his people. — Our courfe for the firR part
was due W. latterly S. W.

Mo't'idaj 3. The country was in general open, and 13
where there was jungle it was thin. The hills to the
right and left were diftant. We croffed the Baug
Nudde at about four miles from Byraghur, and nine
miles beyond it the Tail Nudde, at its confluence with
the Mahanuddy, three quarters of a mile to the S.E. of
Sohnpoor, near which we encamped in a pleafant man-
goe tope. — Our courfe was nearly W. and by S.

The Rajah, Pirrit Singh, a hoy of about ten years
of age, came and paid us a vifit in the evening. The
management of all the bufinefs is in the hands of the
Dewaun, an OrilTa bramin. They complain much of
the licentioufnefs of a Merhattah army under the com-
mand of Bundhoo Jee, the nephew of Maipuh Raou,
the governor of Ravpore ; and the Dewaun entreated
Mr. Forller to reprefent their fituation at Nagpore, and
procure redrefs.

The inhabitants of the countries which we have

464

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORI'^,. 27

464

hitherto paiTed through flyle themfelves Woreas, or na-
tives of OrilTa. They are a fierce people, and polTefs
-a confiderable degree of perfonal courage ; they are
commonly armed with bows and arrows, or fwords : the
latter are generally carried naked, and are broad at the
end and narrow in the middle. They have a rooted an-
tipathy againft the Merhattahs, and frequently boaft of
, the numbers they have flain. The latter are too ftrong
for them in the plain, but they can make themfelves
very formidable to cavalry in the woods.
16 Tuefday 4. We ftruck out of the ufual road to Nag-
pore, which is by Sumbulpoor and Saringurh, to go by
the Burrofumber diilri£t, which is {horter by fix flages
than the former. After we had got clear of the town
our road led through a jungle of low trees. When we
had travelled fix miles we came to a tank and a village,
to the left of the road, called Baunkberja : at twelve
miles another tank and a few huts. We croiTed the beds
of feveral dry nullahs, and water is in general to be
found by digging for it. After going through an extent
480 E 2

a8 JOURNAL OF A mh-es.

480

of nineteen miles of jungle and wood, and pafllng two
deferted villages, I arrived at Luchinpoor, and fat down
in expeftation that the party would come up ; but after
waiting two hours, a fervant came and told me that Mr.
Forller had encamped four miles in the rear. It was then
exceflively hot, and I rode up to the fort, and requefted
the Kelladar to give me flicker : he gave me an out-
houfe to remain in, brought me milk, and was very
civil, but would not let me go into the fort. It is of
mud. The country round about is open : there is a
ftream of water about half a mile to the north of the
fort, and a tank of fine water near it. I remained till
near five o'clock, and returned where Mr. Forfter was
encamped under fome peepul-trees. They had- been
obliged to dig for water in the bed of a nullah.^ — Our
courfe was W^ and by N.

Wednejday 5. We pafled through lefs jungle tb-day. 1 %-
The hills to the right fcarcely difcernible ; thofc to the
left near. We palTed a deferted village, after having
travelled about ten miles, and encamped at another

4 492

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORE • 29

492

deferted village, called Tintulgoun, fituated on the
banks of the Aung Nudde, oppofite to which there is
another village, called Dongrapalle. The channel of
the Aung Nudde is about 200 yards broad. There
are only pieces of ttanding water at this feafon, which
are very good. The guides informed me the fource is to
the welhvard, at a great diflance. The country appears
to have been cultivated to the extent of fome miles round
this village, and it is only a few months fince the inha-
bitants have fled into the hills, which was at the ap-
proach of Bundhoo Jee's army.
12 iChurfday 6. The road lay through an open country.
After advancing about four miles, we came to Hurbunga,
which we found totally deferted; and a mile beyond it,
we faw Moorfond in the fame condition. Here the
guides from Lucheep fell on their knees, and faid they
would go on if we ordered them, but that they would
return at the peril of their lives. They pointed out
the road, which was flraight and well beaten, and we
went on alone to a village called Saulebautte, where we

504

30 JOURNAL OF A milks.

504'
found one family, and we pciTuaded the nixiiler of it,

after much entreaty, to fliow us the road to the next vil-
lage. He conducted us to Phafur, where we procured
two men, who brought us on to Doorka. This village
did not appear to have been long deferted, and I imagine
the people mull have left it at our approach. We in-
llantly placed a guard of Sepoys to prevent our fervants
from pulling down the houfes for firewood ; and we fent
the Bunnies, or grain people, with the guides, to a
village about three miles off, called Huldee, where they
got plentifully fupplied with every thing, and I am
perfuaded, that if any Englifli gentlemen were to travel
this way again, they would not find the people appre-
henfive of being plundered. I recollecSt at Sohnpoor,
amongft the number of perfons collefted round us, there
was a bramin. who made the followino- obfervation in
the courfe of fome converfation we had with him : —
Said he, " You are natives of a region beyond fea, and
have made yourfelves mailers of a large traft of country
ill India, and we are fitting round you without dread and

504

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 31

in an amicable manner. When the Merhattahs, who
profefs the fame religion w^ith us, come into our terri-
tory, we feek for refuge amongil the hills ; our herds and
flocks are plundered by them, and our temples even
not left unviolated."

I could not help feeling a degree of force in the bra-
min's fentiments, though he might have intended what

' O CD

he faid only as a compliment ; and I was happy to find
the people in general impreffed with a good opinion of
the juftice of the BritiHi government in India. — Our
courfe to this village was weir.

N. B. There are feveral roads which turn off to the
left, but the high road is that to the right. There is
good water in a tank, and the Aung Nudde is about
half a mile to the north of it.
12 Friday']. The road was good: the hills to the
right difcernible, thofe to the left more diltant. We
crofTed the bed of the Moneadur Nullah about two miles
from Doorka, and the x\ung Nudde at fix. Two miles
fur-ther went through Auglypore, where our people got-

516 i^

32 JOURNAL OF A mii.es.

fupplied with grain : pafled by Babopaulle, where there
were only a few huts, and encamped at a defcrted vil-
lage, two miles beyond it, called TellingapauUe, to the
Touthward of which is tlie Aung Nudde. The country
was in general open, and appeared favourable for cul-
tivation, and where there was jungle it was thin. We
faw feveral herds of deer with fine branching horns. —
Courfe to Auglypore W. ; from thence S. W.

Saturday 8. Palled Sarungpore at nine miles from 16
TellingapauUe, and Jumlah (where the Bunnies got fup-
plied with grain), at twelve, and encamped at Donga
Ghaut, to the S. W. of which we again met with
the Aung Nudde. The country is open, there are
marks of cultivation in many places, and we faw fomq
lar^e droves of cattle. — Our courfe for the firfl ten miles
was N. W. latterly S. W.

Sunday 9. CrofTed the Aung Nudde ; pafTed Poal- 13
goun to the left, at about two miles, and Bobra at
feven. CrofTed the bed of the Komrea Nudde at ten, and
encamped in a fine grove of bur, tamarind, and peepul

545

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 33

545

trees, called Burkale, near which there is a jeel of

water. The road was good, and lay in general through

a thin jungle. The hills to the left very near. — Courfe

w. s.w.

20 Mo7iday 10. CroiTedthe Komrea Nudde. The road
from thence had a wild appearance, and led through a
forefl over a low ghaut at the foot of the hills for near
eight miles, at which diftance the road leads off to the
left to the hill on which the Burrofumber Rajah lives.
There is no water to be met with except in one place, near
two miles beyond the road which leads to Burrofumber.
Mr. Forfter and myfelf having procured guides, took
one, and proceeded beyond the people ; but he, miftaking
the road, conduced us to a fmall village, inhabited by
mountaineers, who fled at our appearance, but returned
again in about two hours, making a moft hideous noife,
dancing, and beating their axes on the ground. We
judged the ihouting would bring more ; and, as we had
only a few fervants with us, we thought it befl to attempt
a retreat without bloodlhed : but we found at this crilis

S^S F

.7<j, JOURNAL OF A mtlus.

that the horfes were gone to water about half a mile off,
and that thefe favages were ready to draw their bow-
ihings, and we were obliged to prefent our firelocks to
reftrain them. In the mean time our horfes coming up,
we fent the palankeens on firlV, and kept In the rear
ourfelves on horfeback, as it was the only quarter from.
which they could attack us, and we fortunately got into
the high road, after going through two or three miles of
bamboo jungle, which they fired, no doubt with an
intention to cut off our road. Their language was al-
moft •unintelligible to us ; but it fliouM appear from the
frequent ufe of the word " Burgah" that they took us
for Merhattahs, which it implies, and perhaps expefled
that we fliould plunder their village. We found the
people encamped on the banks of the Teeree Nullah, a
running ftream, which flows to the right. There was
a good fliade.— Our courfe was S.W.

N. B. There is water to the right and left of the
road for three miles before you come to the nullah.
Travellers ought to be careful in going through this

567

MiiEs. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 3j

country : the hills are full of robbers, and they are a
daring fet of fellows.

We ought to have flopped at Burrofumber, to have
received a vifit from the Rajah. A prefent of fome broad-
cloth and a few trinkets might have difpofed him to be
favourable to Europeans in future, and been inltrumental
to keep this road always open in cafes of emergency.
J 2 "Tuefday 1 1. Our road was very good and broad, and
the country more open. We left the hills, and crolTed
the Auno; Nudde at about half a mile from the Teeree
Nullah ; and at a lliort diflance beyond It we fell in with
a party of Bunjaree people, v/ho had fifteen bullocks
loaded with grrain, &c. : they returned with us cheer-
fully, and brought us to a place called Mufankoonda,
where there was no village, but fliade, and water in a
deep hole. This place belongs to the Sumbulpoor
country, which feems to intrude itfelf here between
Ruttunpoor and Burrofumber.

The Teeree Nullah forms the weflern boundary of the
Berea Rajah's country (the Burrofumber Rajah).
577 ' F 2

36 JOURNAL OF A miles.

577
There is a village called Hurrinbaub, about four miles

from the high road to the left of the Teeree Nullah,

which is held facred by the Hindoos on account of a fall

of water ; and the bramins who refide there have four

villages allotted them by the Rajahs of Berea, Patna%

and Sarunorurh.

Wednefday 12. Fine open country, with a gradual 15

defcent. Crofled a fmall nullah, in which there was

water, and a nudde called Joong. Our road from thence

for about fix miles afcended, and we encamped at Soor-

mul, inhabited by Gondesf . The water is bad. — Our

courfe for the firll part was W. and by S. ; and latterly

W. and W. and by N.

* A jungle Rajah in the vicinity of the Berca one, and dependant on
him.

'\ Gondwauna, or the country of the Gondes, extends from about
fcventy miles north of the Narbudda as low down to the fouthward as
the diftri<Sls of Nagpore and Ruttunpoor. The natives are a hardy, quiet
people, and good cultivators. They profefs thcmfelves Hindoos, but eat
fowls, and do not abftain from flefh in general, except that of the ox,
cow, or bull. When Aurungzebe reduced this part of the Decan he
obliged numbers of them to become Muflulmans,

wiLESv ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 37

592
lO l%urfday IT,. The road good. Went through feme

jungle ; pafled the village of Caufebara, at two miles
from Soormul, and Pauplie at four, and encamped at a
place called Pundrepauney, where there is fome {land-
ing water in the bed of a nullah. — Courfe, firll: part
W. and by N. ; latterly N. and by W.

N. B. Nurrah is laid down in the map on the high
road.— There is a place bearing that name, which lies
off the high road, to the left beyond Caufebara; none
on the road we went.
o Friday 14. The road was good, and led through a
thin jungle : we encamped at the foot of a rock near
a village called Khullaree.— Courfe W. and by N. and
N. and by W.
j^ Saturday 15. For the firft ten miles the road led
through a thick jungle ; we then entered a fine, exten-
five, cultivated plain, with the villages of Mahfawen
and Beejpor to the right and left ; beyond thefe we
pafled Karora, where there is a tank of water, and en-
626

357933

3* JOURNAL OF A >fit.E3.

626
camped at Balfoura, at which place we found httle {hade

and bad water. — Courfe N. W.

Sunday 16. The road, as yefterday, led over a fine 13
cultivated plain : crofled the Mahanuddy at two miles
from Ballbura; the channel is about 300 yards broad.
PafTed the villages of Pauragoun and Aring, at three and
fix miles beyond it. The latter is a large and flourifliing
place, where there are many merchants, weavers,. Sec.
There is a moflr extenfive girm of mafigoe -tree's ndaf it.
We encamped in a fine mangoe grove on the banks of
a tank near Rewa. — Courfe to the Mahanuddy N.W. ;
from thence W.

All the perfons with whom I have had any con-
verfation, both at this place and at Balfoura, concur in
faying that the fource of the Mahanuddy is- about thirty
gond cofs, equal to 1 20 Englifli miles, to the S. W. from
hence, at a place called Sehawa, and that it rifes in a
field at the foot of a hill.

Monday 17. The road led over the plain. Piffled 16

Nowagoun at fix miles from Rewa. It was dark, but I

^SS

witBs. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. ^

could perceive trees and a tank. There is a number of
villages fcattered all over the plain, but none that either
affords water or ibelter fufficient for a large party. We
encamped to the eaftward of Raypore on the banks of
a tank, called Bygenaut Ka Tallow, the only good tank
near the place. — Courfe W. and by S. ; latterly W.

Tue/clajy 18. Halted at Raypore.

Raypore is a large town, and numbers of merchants
and wealthy people refide there. There is a fort, the
lower part of the walls of which is of ftone, the upper
of mud ; it has five doors and feveral baftions. There
is a fine-looking tank built round with mafonry, but the
water is bad.

Ruttunpoor is in general a very fertile, fine country,
and may be ftyled, from its plentiful produce of rice, the
Burdwan of thefe parts. The widow of Bembajee,
Moddajee's brother, is Hill alive, and all oftenfible re-
fpe£t is ihown to her; but the executive part of the go-
vernment is in the hands of Mayput Raou, a bramin
from Nagpore. The colleftions of Raypore, including
^SS 4

4.0 JOURNAL or A »iii.i«j

tlie toll vipon loaded cattle, are only 70,000 rupees, and
tliofe of all Ruttunpoor not above 1,50,000. During
tlie government of Bembajee the revenue amounted to
five or fix lacks of rupees ; but I was unable to learn
the caufe of this aftonilliing decreafe. The people were
remarkably civil ; for it feems the Rajah had givea
orders that we iliould be fupplied with every thing we
wanted.

^,{^ ed fief day i(). Plain and open country. CrolTed the 14
Kharavn river eight miles from Raypore, and palTed the
village of Komrie a mile further ; to the right of which
there is a roadlea<ding to Nagpore by the LanjeePafs, and
another to the left by the Dongur Ghaut: we took the
latter, and advanced about five miles, to the village of
Suriickdeh. There is no fhelter, but a ilream of good
water near. — Courfe W. and by S. and latterly S, W.

Ihurjday 20.. Plain open country: pafled feveral 12
villages, and crofled a nullah, in which there was fome
ftanding water. We encamped near the fort and vil-
lage of Doorg, There are feveial fields of paun, and

68?

MTfLEs. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 41

681

the adjacent country appears well cultivated. The
Komalilidar, or head man of the place, came out and
vifited us, and was very civil. — Courfe W. and by S.
and latterly W.

1 2 Friday 2 \ . Plain open country. After travelling a
mile and a half, we croiTed the Sheo Nudde ; they fay
it takes its rife from the fouthward, about fifty miles,
and falls into the Mahanuddv at '"• * * * *. There was
no ftream, but pieces of ftanding water. It is about 250
yards broad. There is a village on the banks, called
Piepurfain. The plain from thence is crowded with
villages, the largeft of which, called Purfool, is feven
miles from Doorg. We flopped at Hurdwah. — Courfe
S.W.

1 2 Saturday 2 2 . After advancing a mile and a half, we
pafTed Mohurrimpoor. We then began to approach the
jungle, and paffed the village of Caufepaul; a little way
beyond which we turned to the right, leaving Bclhare on
our left hand, and encamped on the banks of a tank of
705 G

41 JOURNAL OF A mjle^.

very muddy, bad water, near the fmall village of Po-
rinna. — Courfe W. and by S. and S. W.

Sunday 23. Our road led through jungle. For the i*
firft three miles we went W. and by S. and for five miles
nearly S. W. ; after which we turned out of the high
road to the left, and encamped at the village of Cheepa,
where we got provided with grain, and remained all
day. We marched again in the evening, and the
road led through a foreft of large trees. Dongur Ghur
is off the road to the right, about eight miles from
Cheepa. There was formerly a fort there ; but both
that and the village are in ruins. We encamped on the
banks of a dry nullah, two miles beyond it, in which we
were obliged to dig for water. The road was remark-
ably good. — Courfe S. W. ; and latterly W.

Dongur Ghur appears to be one of the fouthernmoft
hills of the range of which Lanjee forms a part. There
is no afcent or defcent of confequence, and there is a
number of detached hills fcattered round about. This
range appears to extend from the north to the fouth-wefl-,

723

WILIS. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 4j

and forms the natural diviiion between Nagpore
and Ruttunpore, or Chehtees Ghur. The Rajah of
Ruttunpoor was called the Rajah Chehtees Ghur, or the
Rajah of the Thirty-fix Forts, as the Rajah of Sum-
bulpoor is llyled Rajah Autaragurh, the Rajah of
Eighteen Forts.
14 Monday 24. We found, that though the road we
were upon led dire£t to Nagpore, yet there were no
villages to be met with ; we therefore, after croffing
the bed of the nullah on the banks of which we had been
encamped, ftruck off through the foreft to the fouth-
eaft, and got into another Bunjaree road, for there are
many that bear that name, and travelled nine miles
nearly fouth-weft, to the Jhoora Nullah, in which there
is a fine fi:ream of water ; near it the village of Mahl-
dongra is fituated, to the left of the road. We pro-
ceeded to Bunjaree, about eight miles further, and en-
camped. There is plenty of water in large holes, which
appear to have been made by the torrents during the rains.
Mr. Forfter pitched under a paukur-tree, the branches of
737 ^ 2

44 JOURNAL OF A miles.

737

which were hung round with old bells, which the Bun-
jaree people offer up to CauUe, the goddefs of deflruction,
when their journey has been fortunate. Out of a frolic
I offered up a tin canifler, and infcribed the date of our
encampment upon it, and Mr. Forfter facrificed a goat.
There are evident marks of cultivation ha\'ing been
carried on at no very diftant period in the country we
came through, and feveral fpots of ground appear to
have been cleared of their wood for that purpofe.

Bunjaree is fo very high a fpot of ground, that it caufes
its neighbouring rivers to take very different courfes
from each other. To the foutli-well of it, about eleven
miles, the Baug Nudde runs and joins the Bein Gunga,
which falls into the Gunga Godaveri, which difem-
bogues into the fea at Mafulipatam. To the eaft the
Jhora Nudde meets the Sheo Nudde before noticed,
and runs into the Mahanuddy, which empties itfelf into
the fea at the Bay of Coojungh.

Huejday 25. The firft part of the road led through a 1 1
thick foreft, feveral fpots of which were however quite

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 4c

748

clear of wood, to the village of Doortura, when the
hills, which were to the right and left, became nearer,
and feemed to form a femicircle. They appear to be
detached from thofe of Lanjee and Khyraghur. The
road onwards was irregular, and winding amongft hills
and woods, without either any acclivity or declivity, and
admits of the paffage of country carts. There are fome
loofe ttones, which would be troublefome to loaded
cattle in a dark night, but we were favoured by the
light of the moon. After paffing a deferted fmall vil-
lage, to the right, we encamped on the bank of the
Baug Nudde. There is only fome Handing water; the
bottom is rocky. The general inclination of our courfe
was to the fouthward, but very irregular. We were in
great want of grain, and the cattle and people had only
half allowance.
14 JVednefday 26. The firft part of the road led through
a thinner foreft than what we had pafled through yef-
terday, with ranges of fmall hills to the right and left.
At three miles from the Baug Nudde we crofled the
762

46" JOURNAL OF A miles.

762
Goredau, in which there was water, and pafled a deferted

village of the fame name. The jungle from thence to

the village of Huldee, fix miles, became more thick, and

the road flony, with fome acclivity. We procured

guides from thence, and proceeded to Cheefgurh, which

is iituated in a fine cultivated valley, and there is a tank

of water, but it is muddy, owing to the buffaloes which

wallow in it. — Our courfe was winding, but upon the

whole we came a grood deal to the fouthward.

"thurfday 27. The road for a mile was very good, 14
when arriving at the foot of a hill we turned off to the
left, and went over a narrow road on the ridge of a hill,
with a precipice for a few hundred yards to the left.
The furrounding trees were fmall and flunted in their
growth, from the parching heat of the rock. As we
advanced the road became better, and at feven miles
from Cheefgurh there is an open fpot of ground, where
we faw a Bunjaree encampment; they have the water of
the Gaurvey Nudde, the fource of which is near. On-
wards there is nothing but wood and jungle, till you

776

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 4^

776

come to Poulandre, which is an open fpot furrounded
by hills. We pafled it to the right, and proceeded to
the Gaurvey Nudde, where we had good fhade, but were
obliged to dig for our water. — Our courfe was very
winding, but inclined to the weftward.
10 Friday 28. The road led through a jungle and be-
tween hills for eight miles, when it became more open,
and we encamped at Nowagoun. Near it is an exten-
live lake of water, which you fee to the right of the road
for two miles before you come to the village : it is fituated
in a deep hollow between the hills to the eaft and weft,
and is confined by a bank to the northward. The wa-
ters of it are diftributed through the village by feveral
fmall channels, and it Is of great ufe to the cultivators
on the dry plain. — Courfe, firft part W. ; latterly S. W.
12 Saturday 29. The road led through a thin jungle.
At feven miles from Nowagoun we pafTed Cheefa, and
at ten Chandgherri, or Saungherri : the laft is the mofl:
populous place I have feen fince I left Cuttae. There is
a fort and a large tank j we encamped beyond it, on the
"798

48 JOURNAL OF A miles.

banks of the Chilbun Nudde, off the high road, m a
pleafant mangoe grove. — Courfe nearly W.

Monday 30. Sheikh Mahomed Ally, with a party 10
of Sepoys, dreffed after our fafliion, and fome horfemen,
came out to meet us from the Rajah of Nagpore. The
Sheikh is a polite old man, and has always been fent out
to meet the Encrlifli. — The road led throuoh a thin

o o

jungle. At three miles from the Chilbun we palTed a
wretched jungle village, and four miles bevond it came
to Kenary, which is large: from thence the country is
more open. We encamped at Maungley, under the
fliade of fome mangoe-trees, planted in a row on the
edge of a ftream of water, which flows through a chan-
nel cut to fupply the furrounding fields : it comes out
of a large tank, as at Nowagoun. There is a Hindoo
temple on the bank of it. — Courfe to Kenary W. ;
from thence S. W.

"Tuefday 31. The road lay through a thick jungle for 20
fome miles. Mr. Davidfon and myfelf were carried
out of the road through the ignorance of the guides ;

4 828

MILES. ROUTE TO NAGPORE. 49

828

when we found it again we palTed Kafulbarry at nine

miles from Maungley, Chiely at eleven, and Adara at
thirteen. The country from Kafulbarry to the Beird-
gunga is open. Where we crolTed there was little wa-
ter, but it was fweet and clear ; the channel is 300 yards
broad. The country beyond it to Beltoa, where we en-
camped, is a plain, finely cultivated, and covered with
villages. There was bad water at Beltoa, but good
fhade. — Courfe W. and by N.

14 Wednefday^ yune i. The road for near two miles led
through a thin jungle. When we croffed the Aum
Nudde we found the country more open, the plain
finely cultivated, and a great number of villages. We
encamped in a mangoe grove near Kohy, in which there
was a well of good water. — Courfe W.
8 Thurfday 2. The road led over the plain, the pro-
duce of which is wheat : it was highly cultivated.
There is a great number of villages all over it. We
encamped at Teetur, in a mangoe grove.

10 Friday 3. Plain richly cultivated, and covered with

860 IT

50 JOURNAL OP A ROUTE TO NAGPORE.

fine villages. We encamped In a mangoe grove to the
eaft of Nagpore.

iV". B. Our hours of travelling, until the 2 3d of May,
were from two o'clock in the morning to feven, eight,
or nine, according to the length of the fl:age : from the
23d of May we ufed to march half an hour before fun-
fet, and encamp at nine or ten o'clock. We fhould
have been unable to have gone through the countries we
did, had we not had grain people and bullocks of our
own.

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE,

Sec, SCQ,

JNaGPORE, fituated in 79° 46 eaft longitude from
Greenwich, and 21^ 49' north latitude, is the prefent
capital of Gondwauna*, a name little known to Eu-
ropeans, perhaps owing to the remote Ctuation of it
from our fettlements, and the Rauj f of that name
having been difmembered before we pofTeiTed any
territory in India, at which time the comparatively con-
fined ftate of the affairs of the Company did not lead to
geographical inquiries.

* The three ancient capitals of Gondwauna were Gurry Mudlah, Gurry
*****, and Deogur.

-j- The dominion of a Raujah is called a Rauj, that of a King is de-

nominated a kingdom.

H 2

52 ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE.

I have taken no fmall degree of pains to afcertain the
boundaries of Gondvvauna ; and though I will not pretend
to fay that the information I have procured is in every
refpedl exaft, yet it may ferve to give a general idea of
the extent of the country.

It is not amifs to obferve, that the people of this place
are by no means communicative, and very circumfpeft
in giving information, particularly to Europeans, and it
has coft me no fmall decree of trouble to collect what
trifling information this account contains.

Gondwauna is bounded on the north-eail by an ima-
ginary line, drawn from the town of Beihare to the city
of Ruttunpoor ; on the fouth-eaft by fuch another ima-
ginary line, drawn from Ruttunpoor through the village
of Soormul (fituated about five cofs to the north-eall of
Nurrah, which lail: is laid down in the map), to the junc-
tion of the Oordah and Beingunga rivers ; on the fouth-
"Weft by the Oordah river; and on the north-eaft by
that chain of mountains which' feparates it from Malwa.
When Gondwauna was partly reduced by Aulumgwer,

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE. 53

he obliged a great number of the natives, together with
the Rajah, to embrace the Mahomedan rehgion ; and
the country remained for a feries of years in this fitu-
ation, the Rajah paying a fort of homage to the Moghul,
as lord paramount : when, in the beginning of the pre-
fent century, Ragojee Bhoofhla, defcended from the
great Sevagi, reduced the greateft part of Gondwauna,
to the fouth of the Nurbudda, with the province of
Eerar. The lenity with which he treated the Gonde
Rajah deferves particular mention, as it fhows a trait of
humanity in the Merhattahs worthy of the higheft pitch
of civilization. He not only abftained from all forts of
perfonal violence, but allotted three lacks of rupees
annually for the Gonde Rajah's maintenance, and the
fort for him to live in, by no means as a confinement.
Burhaun Shah, the fon of the con(]uered Rajah, has flill
handfome allowances, and the fort to live in ; and the
confidence which the late Moodajee placed in him was
great : for what could be a greater mark of it in the
£aft, than putting his family and women under his

54 ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE.

charge when he went upon any warlike expedition ^
which he conftantly did.

Ragojee was the founder of Nagpore, which he fur-
rounded \vith a rampart, it being only an infignificant
village appertaining to the fort prior to his capture of it.
It is fituated on a fine high plain, which is richly cul-
tivated, and produces fine wheat, and bounded by hills
to the north-wefl and fouth. The Nag Nudde, a rivulet
running to the fouthward, gives name to the town.
The houfes are generally meanly built and covered with
tiles, and the flreets are narrow and filthy. The only
good building is the palace, begun by the late Moodajee,
and now finilhing by his fon, the prefent Rajah ; it is
built of a blue ftone dug out of a quarry in large
blocks on the weflern fkirts of the town. The prefent
Rajah, however, has deflroyed the grand efFeft which
would have been produced by the flone alone, by inter-
mixing brick-work in the building. There is a very
large and deep tank* near the weft gate, called Jumma

* Pond.

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE. 55

Tallow, three fides of which are handfomely built up
with mafonry ; and the Rajah has a foundery to the
fouthward of the town, called Shukerderri, where he
cafts tolerably good brafs guns. Thefe, with fome few
gardens of the Rajah's, neatly laid out in walks planted
with cyprefs-trees, and interfperfed with fountains, are
the only places of note at Nagpore.

It {hould appear that Major Rennell (Memoir, fecond
edition, 4to. page 12) is not perfeftly clear with regard
to the idea he has formed of the Merhattah {late, that
all the chiefs owe a fort of obedience to the Paifliwah,
refembling that of the German Princes to the Emperor.
The account I heard from the Dewaunf in the Durbar 4!
was, " That there is a perfon whom they call the repre-
fentative of the Rauj, who is kept in the fort of Sattarah,
and he is treated with all imaginable refpeft when he
makes his appearance at Poonah, which is only upon
particular occalions ; and when at Sattarah he is fupplied
with every luxury, and magnificently attended. On

•f- MIniiler. X Court.

S6 ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE.

the demife of this image of governtnent the handfcme
foil of fome poor man is chofen to fupply his room.
The Paifliwah is prime miniller to the Merhattah ftate ;
the Rajah of Nagpore, Sec. commander in chief of the
armies ; and they, as well as the reft of the chiefs, call
themfelves fervants of the Rauj ; and none acknow-
ledges the leaft immediate authority of the Paiiliwah, but
they are all bound in cafes of neceffity to render mutual
affiftance to each other, for the public good of the con-
ftitution." But the fine extenfive country which the
Paiiliwah occupies, together with the advantage of play-
ing the Sattarah puppet, will always give him influence
with the other chiefs.

The prefent Rajah, Rogojee Bhooflila, the grandfon
of the Conqueror (Ragojee the Firft was fucceeded by
his eldeft fon, Jannojee, who was fucceeded by his bro-
ther Sabage, who was flain in battle by Moodajee, the
father of the prefent Rajah. I have not the particulars
of their hiftories), does not feem to be either adapted to
civil or military bufmefs ; he is generally drelTed plainly

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORL. 57

in white, but wears collly diamonds and pearls : his
behaviour is courteous to ftrangers. His great penchant
is for elephants and mares. He has about 200 of the
former, the finell I ever beheld ; and they are fed fo
fumptuoufly with fugar-cane, treacle, ghee, Sec. and
not unfrequently fowl pallow, that they become almoft
mad with luft, breaking their chains and doing great
mifchief, which is coniidered by the Merhattahs as fine
fport. The principal people about the Rajah are, his
brother, Munnea Bapoo, a very quiet young man ;
Bhowaunny Caulloo, the Dewaun, a flirewd old fellow,
and his nephew, Pondrang, the commander and pay-
mafter of the army ; Siree Dhur, the Monihee ; and
Mahadajee Lefhkery, the Rajah's confident, who is con-
sulted on all occafions.

The Rajah does not keep up above 10,000 horfe, the
pay of which, as is the cullom among all native princes,
is irregularly diilributed. He has two battalions of
Sepoys, armed and clothed like ours ; and although they
have been drilled by black officers, formerly belonging

58 ACCOUNT OF NAG PORE.

either to the Nabob of Lucknow, or our fervice, yet
they go through their exercife very badly, and I do not
think they will be able to make a Hand againll any body
of native Sepoys difciplined by European oiKcers.

I have heard that the total coUedlons of the Rajah's
dominions, including Ruttunpore and Cuttae, only
amount to feventy lacks of rupees per annum. I will
not, however, pretend to affirm that this is exaft, though
I do not think it can much exceed that fum ; for the
Rajah's country, notwithftanding the great extent of it,
does not contain a proportionable quantity of cultivated
land to that which is walle and occupied by forefts.

It is generally fuppofed that Nagpore is the capital of
Berar. This is evidently a miilake. The inhabitants
of Nagpore talk relatively of Berar as an adjoining
province, as we do of Bahar to Bengal ; and it has been
(hewn that Nagpore is a city of late date. Elichpour
is the capital of Berar, by the accounts I have received
from the natives, who reprefent it as a very ancient city,
and much larger than Nagpore.

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE. 59

A cuftom prevails in this town, which I cannot forbear
taking notice of, becaufe it ferves to prove that long-
ufage will give a plaufibility to things feemingly the
moft prepofterous. The bramins and beft people at
Nagpore have women attendants upon their families,
whom they breed up from their childhood, and are called
Butkies, or Slauls. They attend on their mafters and
miftrefles during the day-time, and are permitted to go
to any man they pleafe in the night; fome of them
become very rich, and they are in general very hand-
fome, fine women.

Nagpore,
Auguft 20, 1790.

I 2

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE

FROM

NAGPORE TO BENARES,

£Y THE WAY OF

THE SOUHAGEE PASS.

1790.

vmmmmmmmmB^m

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE^

&c. &c.

MILES

Monday, September 6, 1790.

9 -Left Nagpore, and encamped at Kampty, imme-
diately after having crofled the Kanaan Nudde^', below
its junction with the Coila Nudde. The fource of the
Kanaan Nudde is about 100 miles to the weftward, and
it falls into the Beingunga at or near the Lanjee Ghaut f.
It is a fine ftream of water, but not deep ; it flows to
the right. The road was good, and led through cul-
tivated fields. — Courfe ISI. and by E.
15 Tuefday ']. The road was good, and led through fine
cultivated fields of jowaurt. We encamped at Ram-

* Small river. -}- A pafs, or defile. % Sort of grain.

64 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE mii.es.

tegh, which, amongil the Hindoos, is a place held facred :
for they inform you that Ram collefted his army there
prior to his expedition againll Rawun at Lenka, or Cey-
lon. The Hindoos fuppofc all Europeans to be de-
fcended from Rawun, and they believe Ceylon to be an
immenfe mountain of gold, invifible to them. The
place where the Hindoos offer up their facrifices and
devotions is on a hill to the right of the high road, upon
which a dewul, or temple, is erefted. — Courfe inclining
half a point to the eallward of north, with very little
deviation.

Wednefday 8. For the fpace of two miles the coun- i^f
try was open; after which we paffed through a thick
foreft, in which there were many trees of teek and
fifToo*, which brought us to Dongertaul; to the right of
which we encamped, near a well of good water, where
we had good {hade alfo. We crolfed the beds of many
rivulets in the jungle f, fome of which were broad ; how-

* Both durable kinds of wood, particularly the former.
\ Wood, or foreft. — Hindoftaune word.

4 39^

MILES. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 65

391

ever, I did not inquire into their names, as they can only

have water in them at a time when the torrents pour

down from the hills, when they are found dry at this

feafon of the year ; and their courfes mull: confequently

even then be very iliort. — Courfe very little to the eaft-

ward of north.

12 lljurfday 9. Pafled the village of Ghurra to the left

at feven miles ; croffed the Pitaur Nudde (the bed of
which is broad and rocky, and contained only a little
water), at a fliort diftance beyond the village, and pafled
the village of Souwaufa to the left, at nine miles from
Dongertaul, and arrived at Paunehdhaur, fo called from
five ttreams running together, two of which we crofl^ed,
and encamped on the banks of the fecond. The road
led through a thick foreft, with the exception of a few
cultivated fields near the villages above noted, and was
rocky, with a fmall degree of afcent. — Courfe N. and
by E. -

Whllft I was fitting at breakfaft under a tree, an old
man eighty years of age threw himfelf at my feet,

Sii K /

66 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE miles.

and told me that liis Ton's wife was afflicted with a ter-
rible diforder, which had baffled the fkill of all the village
doftors, and requeiled me to give him fome medicine.
I told him I was entirely unacquainted with medicine,
and feared I fhould be able to do his daughter-in-law no
good; but he perfilHng in his requefl, I confented that
file fliould be brought: when how was I fliocked to fee
a beautiful young woman, who was fo reduced that fhe
could not fland without aid ! She had a violent pulfation
in the jugular vein, and flie faid her menfes had long
been flopped. I gave her thirty mercurial pills, and
de fired her to take two every night; as I thought it
probable that they might remove any obftruftions, from
which it appeared to me her diftemper proceeded ; and
I fincerely wifli from my foul that they may produce a
happy effeft, which I have no right to exped from my
ignorance. I cannot exprefs the gratitude of the old
man and his fon ; they brought me comfits, and flayed
with me for an hour talking, and it was with difficulty
they would leave me.

WILES. FROM NAG PORE TO BENARES. 67

1 61 Friday 10. Pafled the village of Koorie at eight
miles from Paunehdhaur. The road led through a thick
foreft, and was rocky and bad ; and beyond Koorie there
is a fucceffion of ghauts, of the fame name with the
village, which alternately afcend and defcend; but the
acclivity being lefs than the declivity, you get into a
higher country, which brings you to Magaum, where we
encamped. There is a number of cultivated fields
round the village, and the country is open.
We had a great deal of rain at this place.
7 Saturday 11. PalTed the village of Gopaulpore at

three miles from Mogaum. The road led over a plain,
open country, that did not appear to be well cultivated,
but was covered with grafs, which feemed to be referved
for the large herds of cattle, which we faw, to feed
upon. Beyond Gopaulpore, about a mile, we pafled
through a thick jungle, which ends before you come to
Chowree, where we encamped. The country round
about this village, which is populous, has a beautiful
appearance, with hills to the north and eaft of it, at

751 K 2

68 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE miles

a confiderable d'lllai ce, which leave a fine plain, that
is well cultivated, and interfperfed with fome fine large
trees. There was a great deal of water on the road, and
my tent was double its ufual weight, owing to the rain
of yellerday, which occafioned the (hortnefs of the
llaae. — Courfe N.

Sunday 1 2. PafTed the village of Jnte at five miles ; lo
crofTed the Gunga at (ix i^which has its fource feven
miles to the eallward, and falls into the Btia Gunga) ;
and pafTed the village of Dawule at eight, and cnc-Mnped
at Narrailah, where there is a t;nk of good -vnter. The
road led over a plain, and was very m.' ■ e

late fall of rain. There are ranges of hiii^ 't

and left. — Courfe N.

Monday 13. The road led through a plain ;'^*-ry, 15^
which was, however, uncultivated, and was very roc^y
and flony, with an eafy acclivity \ aiKl we crofTed lotre
nullahs % the banks of which were fleep. At eleven milts
from Narrailah you came to Seunee Ciiowparah, ner.r

* Cuts, or water-courfes,

97^

«i^Es. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 69

97I

which the country feems to be well tilled. We then
went through the town of Chowparah, and croffed the
Bein Gunga, in the middle of it, the ftream of which
was rapid, and the bottom full of rocks ; it was, how-
ever, (liallow: we encamped on a plain beyond the
town. This place is famous for the manufacture of
iron, a great quantity of which is imported into our
provinces, and is chiefly inhabited by Afghans, more
of whom Ihall be faid hereafter. — Courfe N.
15 Tuefdav 14. The road for the fiilt five miles was

winding amongft the hills, and over low ghauts, which
were very llony, and carried us a good deal to the eall-
ward. Onwards, for four miles, to Sajepoore, was
ftony, though better than the former part. Under this
village runs the Beejna, the bottom of which is rocky,
and the ftream rapid, at this feafon of the year, whiclx
is increafed by many rills that pour down its rocky
banks, with a noife that has an agreeable eife^b ; its
fource is about ten miles to the wellward, and it ulti-

mately falls into the Bein Gunga, but at what place I

112

70 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE mii.ks,

was unable to learn. We proceeded fix miles furtlier,
to Lucknadown ; two miles and a half of the road to
which led over a barren, rocky country, and we palled
over one ghaut that was rather fleep. We then got
into a plain, open country, that appeared to be well
cultivated. Courfe laft eight miles north, with little
deviation. The country from Dongertaul to this vil-
lage, an extent of feventy-one miles •", is held in
jaguerf by Mahommed Umme Khan, a Pitan chief, to
whofe father the great Ragojee, or Ragojee the Firll:,
granted it in reward for fervices during his redu£lion of
Gondwauna and the northern parts of Berar. Ma-
hommed Umme Khan refides at Seune, eight miles to the
eaihvard of Chowrie, and he feems to pay little atten-
tion to the Rajah of Nagpore : for although I had a
couple of the Rajah's jafouHs, or hircarahsj, with me,

* I am ignorant of the breadth of Mahomincd Umme Khan's jaguer
from E. t(j W. but do not imagine it is any where equal to twenty
miles, and in moft places much lefs,

'\- A grant of land is called a jaguer.

^ Running footmen, or fpies.

ll2i

MrtBSv FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 71

with his perwanneh, dire£ling that I fliould be provided
with guides, yet they were obliged to get a fecond per-
wanneh from Mahommed Umme, to whom they went
by the Rajah's exprefs order. This feems to argue an
internal weaknefs in the Merhattah ftate alluded to,
that I had no idea of, and appears to proceed from the
unwariike difpolition of the prefent prince ; for what
could a handful of Pitans do- againft thofe columns of
horfe with which the Rajah might overwhelm them ?
The above accounts for the number of Pitans to be met
with in the countries we have paffed through, who for
the moft part are adherents to the Jaguerdar*.
12 Wednefday 1$. The road led through an open coun-

try, with little jungle, and was not fo ftony as yellerday,
and the afcent lefs, but it did not appear to be cultivated,
except in the immediate vicinitv of three or four infio--
nificant villages we palTed. At four miles from Luck-
nadown you come to a ftream called the Shur Nudde,
which forms the northern extremity of the territory of

* Holder of the jaguer.
1241 3

72 JOURNAL OF A PvOUTE mile?-

I24J

the Rajah of Nagpore, and the fouthern boundary of
that of BaUajee. We encamped at Doombah, where
I found a party of Pitan horfe belonging to Ballajee,
which had come from Jubbilghur, to quell fome dif-
turbances among the Gondes. The Jemadaur of the
party came and vifited me in the evening, and was re-
markably civil, and faid that if the rain ceafed in the
morning (for it had poured all day), he would accom-
pany me for five or fix miles with fome of his horfemen.
Courfe N. and by E.

Ihurfday i6. The road was very bad and muddy I2
where there were no flones, leading over a plain coun-
try, which was wild and covered with grafs. At four
miles from Doombah we paiTed the village of Buckery;
and five miles further we went over a ghaut, which
was (hort but rather fteep, and covered with loofe round
flones, which made the afcent difficult to the loaded cat-
tle. My tent was fo wet and muddy, having fallen
about my ears in the night, that I was obliged to feek
flicker in the village of Raichore, where I fortunately

MILES. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 73

1361.

procured three empty houfes, purpofely erecled for the

ufe of travellers, by the Mode, or grahi-fellcr of the vil-
lage, who permits people to put up in them on condition
that they will buy their grain of him, which ha feems to
fell dearer on that account. — Courfe to the ghaut nearly
north ; after which the winding of the road carried us
a great deal out of our right direftion.

The Jemadaur of horfe was fo obliging as to fend me
three Sippahys* to conduct me all the way to Jubbilghur.
They were Bonedalas, or natives of Bundelkund ;
one of them, a fine ftout fellow, fung all the way
with a loud voice, that you might have heard him.
at the diftance of a mile, was mightily pleafed that
I entered into converfition with him, and told me
that he would accompany me to Calcutta if I pleafed.
I r Friday 17. The road was very bad, and led through
the Ikirts of a forell: for the mofl part of the way.
We palTed over many low ghauts, covered with round
ftones, which made the afcent and defcent of them

* Soldiers.

147-i- L

74 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE miles.

I47J
rather difiicult to tlie loaded cattle, and one of my bul-
locks fell in the road. At fix miles from Raichore we
pafTed through the village of Cheriapaunre, which is a
decent place, and clean. We got flielter in the village
of Peprea, in fome thatched houfes belonging to the
grain-fellers of the place, on the fame conditions as
yellerday, which it muft be allowed are very eafy. —
Courfe N. and by E. ; and N.E. latterly.

Saturday 18. The road led through a thick jungle, 8
with a range of hills to the right, to the banks of the
Nerbudda, which we crofTed oppofite to Tilwaurre
Ghaut, and got fhelter in a moft excellent tiled ferai,
built by order of Ballajee for the accommodation of
travellers. The fource and courfe of the Nerbudda are
fo well known, that it is needlefs to make any further
obfcrvations on the fubjeft. It is famous for being the
ancient northern boundary of the countries of the
Decan ; and is held facred in thefe parts by the Hindoos,
as the Ganges is to the eaftward. I was rather furprifed
.to find the river fo narrow (for an idea may be formed-

MILES, FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 75

155^

of its breadth from my having fired a piftol acrofs it, the

ball of which reached the oppofite fhore),expe6ling, from
the room Major Rennell has given it in his Map, to find it
much broader; however, I underttand it acquires breadth
as it goes to the weflward, and the narroweft part was in
all probability chofen for the purpofe of a ferry. It is now
deep, but fordable in the dry months; the bottom is
rocky ; and perhaps it may be navigable to very near its
fource in the rains. But fuppofing this to be really the
cafe, what does it fignify? for the wild country through
which it runs, from its fpring at Surgooja to the Hoiliun-
gabaud, or Hufnabaud Ghaut, the haunt of ferocious
animals, feems to forbid that its ftream fhould ever mur-
mur under the weight of boats loaded with the wealth
of merchants. — Courfe N. E.
8 Sunday 19. The road led through an open country:

at four miles from Tilwaurre Ghaut there are large
pieces of rock on the road, that have a romantic ap-
pearance ; and there are feveral wells and a tank on the
163* L 2

i63^

,76 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE miles.

hlglnvay, built by a Goflieyn''^', whofe remains are buried
on one of the hills of the range to the right. Beyond
this we paffed through the town of Ghurra : it is an an-
cient place, and there is a mint, in which an inferior
rupee, current through Bundelkund, called Ballafhahy,
is coined. A ilrong party of horfe is always flationed
here. The road was good between Ghurra and Jubbil-
ghur, which we paiTed through, and encamped on the
bank of a tank on the (kirts of the town. — Courfe N.E,

Monday 20. Halted at Jubbilghur.

I got up early in the morning, and went to the top of
a rock, to vifit a Sidh, or a Bhyraghe, who has lived
in a cave there for thefe three years. I found him fitting
on a deer's fkin fpread on a fort of wooden bed ; he
defired me to come into his cave, and I fat down near
him on a mat which I found fpread there. I drew from
his converfition that he was a Decan bramin (any Hindoo
may become a Sidh, or a Bhyraghe, or a Gofheyn), that
he had travelled over a great part of India, and was well

* A rcligior.s man of the Hindoo tribe.

163Z

MILE*. FROM NA.GPORE TO BENARES. 7;

1631

acquainted with many Englilli charaftcrs ; and he ran

out into a long euloglum on the virtues of Mr. HalHngs,
under whofe aufpices, he laid, the Shafter had been
tranflated into EngHih. I had twenty or thirty fer\ants
with me, and he feemed pleafed with my vifit; he
particularly alked me whether I had come purpofely to
vifit him, or had fallen in with his cave in hunting. I told
him what was really true, that I had come purpofely to
fee him. His countenance feemed to brighten at hear-
ing this; which fhows that the moft reclufe are not free
from vanity : and I think myfelf, that it is nothing but
motives of vanity that incites thefe people to give up
worldly affairs, that they may be revered almoft like
gods, for many of them are difcovered to riot in licen-
tioufnefs under the mafk of fandity: and it feems,
v/hen the matter is fimplified, to be one mode of getting
bread in this country, as a flioemaker or a taylor, but
more certain than following either of thole two emplov-
ments. I prefented him with four rupees at parting,
which brought a fmile on his auftere brow. Gonefli

i63i 3

73 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE mit.es.

'3J

i6^i

PLindlt, Ball:ijee's Aumil* at this place, vlfitedme ; he
was very pohte: I prefented him with a turban, iome
paper, t-\vo pencils (which they are mucli delighted
with), otter and paun ; and he faid he would fend his
people with me to conduct me through his mailer's
territory.

The country round Jubbilgliur is a fine plain, bounded
by hills, part of which is referved for the pallurage of
cattle, and the remainder well cultivated.

'Tuefday 21. The road for the firft two miles was 16
very good, and we pafied through the village of Ad-
hartal. Onv/ards we got amongil overflowed fields,
which in fome places were up to my faddle-flaps in
water; and the road continued thus for fix miles, when
we crofied the Pereat Nudde, and got into higher ground,
that lafted for three miles, until we had pafied through
the extenfive village of Punaghur, beyond which the
load again became bad, and led through fields. 'We
encamped at Bhooraghur, on the edge of a large lake

* Governor, or coUedlor of the revenues.

179^

MILES. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 79

of water, in a fine mangoe grove. The country we
paiTed through was very well cultivated, and the great
quantity of water on the road is owing to the breaking-
up of the monfoon, which has been attended with a
great deal of rain to the north of the Nerbudda. The
plain was bounded to the right and left by hills. —
Courfe N.
12 Weclnefclay 22. The road for four miles was very

good, which brought us to Goofulpore, a large and clean
place ; beyond which we got into fields, that in fome
parts were under water, and we were obliged to keep
on the bund, or embankment. At three miles from
Goofulpore we croiTed the Herrin Nudde, the fource of
which is in the hills to the eallward. We proceeded
through fields to Sahorah, a large village, where we
encamped in a fine mangoe grove. The country we
pafied through was a plain furrounded by hills: the rich
cultivated ftate of the former of which exhibited a beauti-
ful piAurefque contraft with the barren rocklncfs of the
latter. — Courfe N. and by E.
J9U

So JOURNAL OP A ROUTE miles.

I9li
I forgot to take notice yefterday, that the hills to the

north-weil of Bhooraghur produce iron ore.

In the evening the Rajah's Aumil, a Merhattah Pun-
dit, vilited me, and was very civil.

ThurfJay 23. After travelling a mile the road became r2'
fo bad, that we were obliged to take a long fweep to the
weftward to avoid overflowed fields, and we did not get
into our right courfe again for near three miles; after
which the road for two miles was very good, and brought
us to the Baugh Nudde, the ftreamof which, juil above-
where we crolfed, is confined by a wall to preferve the
water in the dry feafons, for the purpofe of religious
ablutions, and the Poojeh, at fome dewuls, or temples,,
on its banks ; and the waters in the rains rifing above the
level of the height of the wall make a beautiful foamino;
cafcade. Adjoining to the Nudde we pafied through
the village of Koowau, which has a large lake on the
/kirts of it. The remainder of the road led through a
foreft, with hills to the right and left, and we pafTed two
or three fmall villages. We encamped at Cawriah.

203

Mioes. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 8i

20-3£

The firft part of the road, as has been obferved, carried

us confiderably to the weftward; for four miles we went
nearly N. and by E. and the remauider N.E. We mull
have gone over at leall: fifteen miles of ground, but I
have fet down the meafured dirtance as given me by
Mr. Forfter, who went this road in the dry weather, and
of courfe was not obliged to go out of his way.
12 Friday 24. The firft part of the road led through

fields, and carried us a good deal to the ea ft ward. At
fix miles from Cowriah we crofted the Kutteehna
Nudde, which Hows from the eaftward. We continued
to pafs through a cultivated country, with a range of
hills to the right, which breaks oif abruptly before you
come to the Bhora Nudde, v/hich we crofted, and imme-
diately got into the town of Belhary, where we en-
camped in a mangoe grove. — Courfe latterly N. and
by E.

Belhary is a very ancient town, and the northern ex-
tremity of Gondwauna. The old Gonde fort ftill re-
2151 M

iz JOURNAL OF A ROUTE mii.e<^.

215J
mains, to which the Mcrhattahs have made fome ad-
ditions and alterations.

Saturday 25. The firfl five miles of the road led over 1 2
a ghaut, or pafs, the afcent to which was eafy, and
covered with huge flat flones : the defcent in fome
places was rather abrupt, and very craggy ; and nearly at
the foot of the ghaut, on the right-h^nd (ide, are the
remains of an old fort, which appears to have been de-
figned to guard the palTage. As we advanced we fome-
times palTed through jungle, and fometimes through
field ; but the former feemed moll to prevail. We
encamped at Chakah. — Courfe over the ghaut E. and
by N. ; latterly N. E.

At this village ends the territory of Ballajce in thefe
])arts : his country extends from Calpee on the banks
of the Jumna, where he himfelf refides, to thirty miles
to the fouth of the Nerbudda, vv'here it acquires a breadth
of two hundred and fifty miles more to the eaftward
than any other part of his dominions, including the an-
cient Gonde forts of Gurra Mundlah and Gurna Baund-

227I

WILES. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 8;;

227J

hoo. His fon, Abhau Sahib, refides at Sagiir, and has

the management of the fouthern parts of his father's
country. They fay he is a very debauched young man,
and we may well fuppofe his manners mufl: have more
or lefs a detrimental degree of influence on the country
under his charge ; however, if we make the flouriUiing
flate of the villages we have feen, and the appearance of
the inhabitants, a criterion for our judgment, we cannot
fuppofe any material oppreflion to have exiftence. Bal-
lajee flands next in rank to Ragojee, the Rajah of Nag-
pore, amongft the Merhattah chiefs, or princes, and is
well fpoken of by his fubje6ts. He is entirely at the
mercy of the Paifliwah, whofe agent always refides at
Calpee, and is continually making exorbitant demands
in the name of his mailer. Ballajee's Aumil at Belhary
was abfent in the country yefterday when I arrived, and
did not return until night, when he fent a polite meffage,
excufing himfelf from vifiting me, and ordered four
Sippahys and a Chobdar* to conduct me to this place:

* A fervanl for thein, who carries a lilvcr or a wooden flick.

227

M 2

84 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE miles.

227^
and I muft acknowledore havino: received uncommon

attentions from all Ballajee's people.

Sunday 26. Tiie road led through a plain country, 15
covered with thin jungle ; and at five miles from Cha-
kah we paffed a Bonedala fort. I had the precaution
to fend on a horfeman before me. to acquaint the people
that I fliould pafs in the courfe of the night, and defired
them not to be alarmed, wifliing to make them fuppofe I
was the flrongeft party. They talked of fearching my
baggage, which my horfeman told them he was very fure
his mafter would not fubmit to, as he was not carrying
merchandife ; and all my things paffed unmolefled ;
myfelf, with a Nayk and fix Sepoys, bringing up the
rear. I continued to march flowly along with my ele-
phant, 8cc. through a country tolerably well cultivated,
till I had paffed through the village of Dhowrah, at
twelve miles from Chakah, v/hen the fun becoming very
hot, and the wind in my back, I pullied on three miles
further, to Bunjaree, where I had not arrived half an
hour before I heard that my elephant had been detained

2425

MILES. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 8j

2425

by 300 or 400 matchlockmen, who infifted that I fliould

return to Dhowrah ; which I was advifed by no means
to comply with by the people of this place ; and the
Zemindar affuring me of prote6Vion, I remained, and
fent a Nayk and four Sepoys to tell the Bonedalahs that
if they did not releafe my elephant I lliould fend to
Chunar for an efcort. They would not attend to this,
and the Nayk and four Sepoys returned ; two Sepoys,
who had always guarded the elephant, ilill remaining
with her : and they drove away the elephant. I wrote
to Colonel Brifcoe, at Chunar Ghur, to fend me an
efcort of two companies of Sepoys, in the evening
Roupee Kowaus, the Dhowrah-man, fent a horfeman to
entice me to return. I told him that it was cuflomarv,
as well as his mafter's bulinefs, to have firft vifited me ;
not like a robber, to detain my elephant after I had my-
felf paffed on. I told him to go away; that I had
taken my fteps, and he might do as he plealed. Laul Jee,
the Zemindar of this place, vifited me in the evening.
He came attended bv a number of matchlockmen with
242*

86 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE miies.

242^
lighted matches, and I drew up my Nayk and fix Sepoys

with their bayonets fixed, though 1 did not fufpe6t any
treachery. He behaved with the greatell degree of
civility, and faid he would bring my elephant the next
day. I gave him otter and paun, and he retired into
his fort, where he faid I iliould find proteftion in cafe of
neceflity.

I learned that the country is torn and fliaken by in-
teftine commotions. The barber, the flioemaker, the
taylor, the clown, all have guns, and there is no ap-
pearance of the cultivator. Every petty fcoundrel who

has a tannah, or llation,- on the road, makes unjuft

cxa£tions upon every traveller whom he can overpower.

Courfe N.E.

Bunjaree is a pleafant village ; and though I had no

tent, yet I was completely flieltered from the rays of

the fun in a fine orrove of mans^oe and tamarind trees.
' The Juphaow Nudde runs through the middle of this

village, and has its fource in the hills to the S. W. It

produces plenty of excellent filli.

242^

-•ii-Ej. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 8y

242*

Monday 2-]. Laul Jee, with an hundred matchlock-
men, went in the evenhig, accompanied by a fervant on
whom I could depend, to endeavour to get my elephant
releafed. I began to think Laul Jee is not better than
his neighbours. I wrote a Perfian letter to Rajah Dho-
kul Sing at Callenyer, reprefenting the infolence of his
fervant's conduct, and demanding redrefs.

'tuefday 28. Laul is not yet returned. I under-
ftand they want to extort a thoufand rupees from me.
\ have fent word to my fervant not to agree to give a
farthing in my name, and at any rate not more than an
hundred rupees. They told my fervant that my camp
bafkets were full of gold mohrs : he replied, it was
falfe ; and dared them to force the padlocks. The
Dhowrah-man is more civil, fent his compliments, and
wanted a drefs ; which I had peremptorily refufed to
give him.

Wedncfday 29. The Dhowrah-man fo worried mv
fervant, a bramin of high fpirit, from early in the
morning until evening, and was fo exorbitant in his de-
242^ 3

88 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE mh-es.

242 s
mancis, wanting 4000 rupees, that he could not withhold

hlmfelf any longer ; he faid, " Take twenty rupees,"
throwing them on the ground, *' and releafe my matter's
elephant inttantly, or you will repent it when you fliall
be bound hand and foot, and carried to Calcutta. " This
Incenfed the Dhowrah-man (o much, that he made a
fio-n to his people, and they were ready to fall on my .
fervant, who at one leap cleared hlmfelf from the crowd,
and drew his fword, daring any one of his people to
attack him. They were alloniflied at this, and defired
him again to fit down, and come to fome terms. After
a great deal of talk, he fatlsfied both Laul Jee and the
Dhowrah-man with 100 rupees, and brought a written
order to the Tannadars that I fliould not be Hopped ;
and my elephant and baggage arrived. We fliall be
two days before we get out of the country under this
plunderer's charge, and I am not wholly unfufpicious
of treachery; however, my Sepoys are firm, and we
are refolved, if we find the road flopped, to make a paf-

fage with our arms, or periili in the attempt. The jufl-

242

MILES. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 89

2421

nefs of my caufe, and the meannefs of the charafter of

Roupee Kawaus, who is by caft a barber, has armed
my foul with a degree of fortitude, not to be daunted
by thefe plundering mountaineers.
12 Ihiirfday 30. The road led through a broad valley,

with little jungle ; the country, as may be furmifed, is
in a neglefted ftate of cultivation. We paiTed three
or four villages, and encamped at Ajwine, which has
lately been plundered, and almoll: totally deferted in
confequence. I could not get a rupee changed. —
Courfe, firft part E. and by N. ; latterly N.E.

The plunderer of this village has fent me word, that
the plunderer of another village will attack him in the
courfe of the night. I have put two fentinels on guard,
and ordered all my people to fleep on their arms, and
to fire on any perfon who attempts to come near my en-
campment. No difturbance in the courfe of the night,
except that occafioned by the noife of the village people
to frighten a tisrer, who killed a bullock within 600
yards of my tent.
254^ • N

JO JOURNAL OF A ROUTE m".es.

254*
Friday, Ocioher i. The road led through an un- 11

cultivated country, with forell and wood in many places.

At fix miles from Ajwine we pafTed the village of CuUie,

near which there is a fort, and encamped at Bhugunpore,

at the foot of the pafs of that name. — Courfe, firft part.

E. and by N. ; latterly N. E.

The Zemindar, a bramin, vifited me in the evening,

and was very civil : he faid, he was very fure that

Rajah Dhokul Sing would be very much difpleafed if he

knew I had been detained an inftant. Thefe people are

all thieves ; the Zemindar, who this minute vifited me,

and I thought appeared to be a decent man, has fent a

meifage, defiring me to decamp and march inftantly, as

the Dhowrah-man's people are alTembling to attack me

in the night. This is a trick to get me into the pafs

while it is dark, where a dozen matchlockmen, behind

trees in the wood, may obitruft my party, while the

village people plunder my baggage. I have told him I

anj much obliged to him for his information, and fhall

(lay here till morning, and am quite prepared for an

MILES. FROM NAG PORE TO BENARES. 91

= 65^

an attack. We all fleep upon our arms agani to-
night.

The rafcal of a Zemindar kept up an incefTant firing
all the night, and made his people halloo in the woods,
with an intention to terrify me. I put two fentinels on
guard, and gave them particular orders not to fire un-
lefs any body approached my camp. The event proved
what I had judged, no attack.
2 1 Saturday 2 . I arofe an hour before funrife, and ordered

my baggage to be loaded and driven oJfF; and myfelf, with
two horfemen, and the Nayk and fix Sepoys, remained
fome time on the ground to obferve the motions of the
Zemindar. He fent a couple of fellows with fwords in
their hands, to tell me he had the guard of the pafs, and
would not permit me to proceed. I told them their
mailer was a mean fcoundrel, to fend at that time and
make any objeftions ; and upon fliowlng the Dhowrah-
man's pafs, they went away. The road for five miles
led through the pafs; and although the afcent and de-
fcent were both eafy, yet I think cannon could not be

2 86i N 2

92 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE miles.

286i
drawn over the rocky road without great difFiculty.

There Is a chokey, or guard of a couple of matchlock-
men, on the top of the pafs. We then got nito a cul-
tivated, plain country, and pafTed feveral villages, and
encamped at Amirpatam ; two miles before you come
to which, ends the territory of Bundelkund. — Courfe
E. and by N.

Sunday 3. The road led through a fine cultivated 28
country, and we palTed feveral villages : encamped at
Reewah. — Courfe E. and by N. The Rajah fent
his Dewaun immediately on my arrival, with orders to
fupply me with what I wanted, and to tell me he would
vifit me the next day.

Monday 4. In the morning the Rajah fent the bramin
to me, who dreffes his viftuals, with twenty rupees ;
which I was informed it was cuftomary to take, and give
the bramin ten per cent, out of it : the Rajah foon after
followed. He is a fhort, flout man, aged about fifty
years ; he fat with me about an hour, and afked a num-
ber of queftions about England and Calcutta. I gave

I 314^

MILES. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 93

him fix yards of fcarlet cloth, a piece of Kimkhauf*,
a piece of muflin, and otter and paun.

Rajah Ajeet Sing is the Maha Rajah, or Great Rajah
of Bundelkund, Bogilcund, and the Singars ; and though
the Rajah of Bundelkund is entirely independent of,
and more powerful than Ajeet Sing, yet he muft be
inftalled in his government by the latter, who bellows
the honorary infignia.

The influence of the foldiery is fo great, that there is
not a fingle Jemadaur or officer in the Rajah's fervice
but what has a jaguer of one or two villages for his fup-
port ; by which means the country is entirely divided
among them, and little remains for the Rajah's ownex-
pences, except what arifes from the cuftoms of Reewah,
and the revenue of the land in the immediate vicinity of
it : notwithftandlng which, and that the Rajah is con-
fiderably in debt, no fort of exaflion or oppreflion is
permitted to be exercifed over the Reyots, and he is
very much beloved by all his fubjefts. The Rajah's

* Gold wrought cloth.

314^

94 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE milrs.

houfe is in the fort, which is of ftone, and very extenfive,
and furrounds the houfes of the moft wealthy and re-
putable inhabitants of the place. The fuburbs are
large. Under the fort runs the Bichea Nudde, which
has its fource twenty miles to the eaftward, at a place
called Gore, and is joined by the Beher Nudde from the
weilward, juft above the town ; and both fall into the
Tauwuns Nudde near the Souhagee Pafs. They relate
at this place, that when Humaioon fought refuge -v^ith
the Rannah of Oodyepoor from the arms of the ufurper,
Shere Shah, Choole Begum, one of his wives, who was
then with child, for greater fecurity was fent to the an-
ceftors of Ajeet Sing, at Baundhoo, a flrong fortrefs
twenty or thirty miles to the fouth-weft of Reewah,
when almoll immediately on her arrival flie was taken
with the pains of labour ; but the aftrologers infilled
that the delivery Ihould be deferred for two hours, when
a great king would be produced. The poor Begum
was hung up by the legs for the appointed time, after

314^-

MiLHS. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 95

which fhe was let down, and the mighty Acbar*'' was
born. In remembrance of the above anecdote, when
Ajeet Sing received Shah Aalum after his flight from
Shujah Ud Dowleh, and made an offering of the town
of Mercundpoor to the king, and one of his wives was
delivered of a fon, he was called Acbar Shah. He Is
flill in exiftence at Delhi, and the taxes of the above
town, amounting to 800 rupees per annum, are regularly
remitted to him.

Tuefday 5. I returned the Rajah's vifit. He ordered
the great gate of the fort to be thrown open, which at
other times is always lliut, and received me with a great
deal of cordiality. I faw his fon, a fine handfome
young man, aged about twenty-five. I had it hinted to
me that he was fo much in debt, that he was fcarcely
able to llir for the Importunities of his creditors. The
Rajah gave me a piece of filk, a piece of muflin, and a
turban, otter and paun. In the evening I fent the

* The third prince of the dynafty of Tamerlane, that fat on the throne
of Hindooftan.

314^-

g6 JOURNAL OF A ROUTE miles.

Rajah's fon a turban wrought with gold, and a fmall
looking-glafs fet hi agate, and ornamented with ftoncs.
The Dewaun foon after came to me witli three letters,
addrefTed to the Zemindars on the road, ordering them
not to obftruft my way ; and the Rajah fent two Hir-
carrahs to condudl me to the foot of the Souhagee Pafs.

Wednefday 6. The road led through a fine cultivated 2 3
country, with many fine tanks, and at twelve miles from
Reewah we pafled through Raypore, a large place.
We croffed feveral rivulets, which were too infignificant
to trace, and we encamped at Mungaouma, on the banks
of the Sino-re Nudde, the fource of which is fixteen
miles off, in the hills to the S. £. and it falls into the
Tauwuns river after taking a north-wefterly direction. —
Courfe very little to the N. of E.

The ufual road to Mirzapoor from hence is through
the country of the Singrahs ; but Ajeet Sing advifed me
to o-o by the Souhagee Pafs, as they are a turbulent
people, and my guard is not Ibong.

I'burfJay 7. The road led through a country re- i'2

349'

M^irs. FROM NAOrORE TO BatsARES. gy

3495

markably well cultivated, and the harveft ready for the

fickle. It may become a qiieftion, and fubje^t matter
for furpriie, that Ajeet Sing {hould be (o poor, when
his country is fo well cultivated : but the cafe is this,
that all his foldiers have affignments of lands for their
fupport, as we have before obferved, and are themfelves
remarkably attentive to agriculture, as they receive no
pay ; and you will fee Rajpoots and bramins working
in their own fields. We encamped at Ghur, in a man-
goe tope, near a tank'-" of fine water. — Courfe N. E.
1 8 Friday 8. Eight miles of the road led through fields,

and it was with difficulty we found our road; when
we arrived at the Souhagee Ghaut, the afcent to which
is very eafy, but ftony, and continues for eight miles ;
the defcent is remarkably abrupt and rugged for the fpace
of near a mile, at it was with the utmoft difficulty my
elephant got down. At the foot of the ghaut, to the
right, is a ftone well, but the water is bad. We en-
camped at a village half a mile further, bearing the

* A pond.
3671 o

9? JOURNAL OF A ROUTE mile?,

367^
fame name with the ghaut. — Courfe to the fummit of

the ghaut N.E. ; defcent E. My people returned from
HuUea, where they found Dhokul Sing: he fent a very
polite letter, exprefiing his difpleafure that my elephant
had been detained, and a perwaneh* to the Khowaus
to releafe it immediately. I fliall write to him more
fully when I arrive at Benares ; and requell that the
TOO rupees may be taken away from the Khowaus, and
diftributed amongft the poor of the village of Dhowrah.

Saturday 9. The road for feven miles led through 15
fields, and brought us to the junction of the Balun
Nudde with the Tauwuns, or Tonfe. We croffed the
former, which comes from the hills to the fouth-eall;
the latter has its fource a great way off, to the fouth^
weft, and falls into the Ganges below Allahabad.
The Tauwuns Nudde terminates Bogilcund, the ter-
ritory of Ajeet Sing. — Courfe to the Balun Nudde N. E.
The road onwards to the village of Khere led through a
fine cultivated country. — Courfe E. The Foujdar, on

* Written order.

3 zUl

MILES, FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. 95

3821

the part of Laul Oodwunt Singh, the Nowaub's Ze-
mindar of the diflrict of Maurra, vifited me in the even-
ing, and brought two people toconduQ: me to Maurra.

15 Sunday 10. The road led through fields, and we
found it with the greateft difficulty. The country was
remarkably well cultivated, and we paiTed feveral vil-
lages. — Our courfe was very irregular; but from the
range of hills to the right, which run nearly eaft and
weft, I imagine the village of Diaia, where we en-
camped, to bear about E. and by N. from Khere.

16 Monday 11. The road led through a fine cultivated
country, and we palTed many villages ; encamped near
Maurra. I there learned that Rajah Ram Ghollam
Singh had paiTed the Ghauts, with 900 matchlockmen.
and 200 horfe, by the delire of Mr. Duncan, to my
relief. Two or three hours after I arrived at this place,
Laul Oodwunt Singh, the Zemindar, fent a profufion of
eatables for the entertainment of myfelf and people,
and twenty or thirty rupees, which I diftributed amongft
his people who brought the things. He foon after

4131 o 2

ICO JOURNAL OF A ROUTE wu.rs.

vifited me himfelf, and I prefented him with an Auruii-
gabad turban and cumurbund worked with gold. In
the evening I received a letter from Mr. Duncan, giving
mc an account of the plan he had laid down for mv re-
lief, which at once difplays his accurate judgment, as
well as humanity, in the promptnefs of his exertions ;
which I ihall ever remember with g-ratitude.

T'liefday 12. Rajah Ram Ghollam Singh (who had q
repaffed the Ghauts on hearing that I had gone by the
Souhagee Pafs) vifited me in the morning, and re-
quefted that I would Hay a day with him at Beejapour,
which I promifed to do. On parting I prefented him
with a Guzarat and an Arungabad cumiirbund. Laul
Oodwunt Singh was very deflrous that I fhould vifit
him, which I wifhed to avoid, as I knew it would be
putting him to a needlefs expence; but he fent fo fre-
quently that I could not avoid it. He met me at the
door, and conducted me into a fmall upper room, and
was very polite. On parting, he wanted to give me a
large parcel of cloths and ihawls, a horfe, and a bag of

w^i-ES. FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES. loi

4221

money. I told him it was not cuftomary for Englldi

people to take fuch things, and begged he would excufe
me. He faid l^e was not a Zemindar of the Company,
but of the Nowaub, and infifted that I fliould take fom.e
part of the things, and I accepted a pair of fhawls and
a piece of kimkhaub. In the evening I fet off for
Beejapour, and encamped there. The Rajah met me
on horfeback half a mife from the town, and I could
not perfuade him to leave me until my tent was pitched,
and I had lain down.

Wedne/day 13. I had a violent fever on me all the
night, and the Rajah came to fee me in the mornino-. I
had heard that he had made fuch long llages for my relief,
that his horfe dropped on his arrival at Beejapour, and
I offered him the bell horfe I had, with furniture, but
I could not perfuade him to accept it. At eleven o'clock
A. M. relieved from the fever by a profafe perfpiration.
The Rajah fent a number of eatables for mv enter-
tainment.

In the evening the Rajah came to condua me to his.

4221 o

loi JOURNAL OF A ROUTE, &c. mileb.

42 2 J

houfe, and was remarkably polite and attentive. On
parting he wanted to give mc Ihawls, See. and a horfe ;
I requelled he would excufe me, but he infifted that
I ihould accept of fomething, and I took a piece
«f kimkhaub, and went home. The Rajah accom-
panied me, and brought the horfe along with him, which
he infifted on my accepting ; — I told him I would ac-
cept it on no other terms, than that he would take a
Decan horfe I had, in return, and a Hindooftany fword,
which he at laft agreed to : and the Rajah's horfe is
fuperior to mine, though I gave 800 rupees for him.

'T'hurfday 14. The Rajah came in the morning, and jg
infifted on accompanying me to Mirzapore, and he rode
all the way with me. On parting I gave him a fir-
peach ■'^' fet with jewels, which had been prefented to me
by the Rajah of Nagpore, on my leaving that place.

Friday 15. To Benares, by Dauk, or poft. 02

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