^ 
 
 <i>
 
 CIRCLING 
 
 THE 
 
 GLOBE 
 
 Letters from Foreign Lands 
 
 WITH 
 
 Biographical Sketch 
 
 — BY — 
 
 T. W. BROTHERTON 
 
 Miliar P. & H. H(,u.<e. Los Angel, s, Cal.
 
 le 
 
 
 rO my father, Jasper Tlrotberton, whose 
 upright manhood, sterling honesty, in- 
 dustry and strong Christian character 
 are a perpetual benediction, this volume is 
 affectionately inscribed 
 
 by 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 X 
 
 ^ 
 
 ttooa? 
 
 wO
 
 ILLUSTRATIONS 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Dwelling of 1 Author Frontispiece 
 
 Author's Portrait 8 
 
 Pagoda, Japan 25 
 
 Botanical Garden, Singapore 43 
 
 Pyramids 61 
 
 Jordan, Place of Baptism 66
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 PAGE. 
 
 Foreword 7 
 
 Biographical Sketch 9 
 
 Pacific Ocean 17 
 
 Japan 23 
 
 China 34 
 
 Straits Settlements 42 
 
 Ceylon 49 
 
 Arabia 56 
 
 Egypt and Palestine 59 
 
 Italy 69 
 
 Greece 76 
 
 Greece and Turkey : 83 
 
 Turkey 90 
 
 rou mania and hungary 97 
 
 Austria 104 
 
 Scandinavia 108 
 
 Homeward Bound t t 3
 
 FOREWORD 
 
 THESE random notes of foreign travel were pub- 
 lished in the Auglaize Republican, and are now 
 reprinted at the request of some of my traveling com- 
 panions on a great part of the journey, Mr. and Mrs. A. 
 EL Ponveroy and Mr. Chas. M. Stimson being with us 
 as far as Venice, Italy, and Mrs. Agnes G. Chichester 
 and daughter Catherine to Cairo and the Nile. With 
 many others from Los Angeles and vicinity we sailed 
 from San Francisco on the "Korea" on March 9th, 1909, 
 not as a party, but with tickets from D. F. Robertson of 
 the German-American Savings Bank, to whom we were 
 indebted at the starting, and during the progress of our 
 journey, for many thoughtful courtesies. 
 
 Mrs. Brotherton and I had sailed from Ntew York on 
 the Steamship "Zeeland" of the Red Star Line, on May 
 16th, 1903, for Antwerp, Belgium, and had seen the 
 magnificent Cathedral, one of the finest in Europe, with 
 the great painting of Rubens. "Descent from the Cross," 
 and to Brussels and the battlefield of Waterloo and back 
 to the Hague. Amsterdam, the Island of Marken in the 
 Zuyder Zee, and then to Cologne, with its great Cathe- 
 dral, and then up the Rhine to Mayence, Frankfort-on- 
 the Main. Heidelberg, with its great University, to 
 Strassburg, with its wonderful clock, and to Basle, 
 Zurich, Lucerne and Geneva in Switzerland, and through 
 St. Gothard's tunnel into Italy, taking in Milan with its 
 statue-crowned Cathedral, through the many tunnels to 
 Genoa on the Mediterranean Sea, and back to Lucerne, 
 and then to Munich in Bavaria ; Xuremburg. with its
 
 ancient fortifications, then to Dresden in Saxony, and to 
 Berlin with its many places of interest ; then to Hamburg 
 and across the storm-tossed North Sea to Leith, Scot- 
 land, the port of the city of Edinburgh, taking in Melrose 
 and the Scott country. Then up by Sterling Castle, 
 over the Highlands, with its heather and rough-coated 
 cattle, across the Lakes made famous by Scott, and to 
 Glasgow, and to Ayr, the home of Burns, then to Stran- 
 raer, and across the Irish Sea to Larne, Ireland, and 
 down to Belfast and Dublin and across the Irish Sea 
 again to Liverpool, England. To Manchester, Chester, 
 of curious interest, to Stratford-on-Avon, with Shake- 
 speare memories, to Oxford with its Universities, Lon- 
 don with Parliament, Westminster. Tower, London 
 Bridge, and down the Thames to its mouth, passing 
 Greenwich, where longitude begins, and down to Brigh- 
 ton on the South, then to Dover, and across the Channel 
 to Calais, France ; the city of Paris, with its environs 
 of thrilling interest; the tomb of Napoleon; down the 
 Seine into the open country forty miles below the city, 
 among the French villagers and where the aviators were 
 already learning how to fly, and back to Antwerp, re- 
 turning on the "'Kroonland" to New York, and having 
 visited the various places of interest in the British Isles 
 and Western Europe explains the fact that in our 
 "globe circling" these interesting and frequent routes of 
 travel were omitted from our itinerary. 
 
 Apology is offered for mistakes or inaccuracies of de- 
 scription, or the omission of many things and sights 
 of interest on our journey. These letters are only de- 
 signed to give the writer's brief notes of a few events 
 and passing observations on the way, and not as the fin- 
 ished productions of a "Stoddard," nor the details of a 
 "Baedeker" or "Murray." 
 
 Los Angexes, April 28, 1910.
 
 T. \\ . Brotiiivktox.
 
 Biographical Sketch 
 
 As this volume was written for circulation largely 
 among relatives and personal friends, and not with the 
 expectation that it would be of interest to the general 
 public, a brief life of the author and his work may not 
 be considered out of place. 
 
 Theodore Widney Brotherton, the son of Jasper 
 Brotherton, a native of New York State, and Jane 
 Widney Brotherton, a native of Ohio, of English-Irish 
 ancestry, was born at Piqua, Ohio, May 29th, 1847, being 
 the third of four sons born of such union. His mother 
 died in 185 1. His boyhood years were spent in at- 
 tendance at the public schools of his native city. In the 
 early part of 1862, at fourteen years of age, desiring with 
 a boy's curiosity to see real war, he went to Todd Bar- 
 racks at Troy, Ohio, when the Seventy-first Ohio Infantry 
 was being organized, and sought to enlist as a drummer 
 boy, although utterly devoid of any musical talent. There 
 being no vacancy in the regiment in the drummer line, 
 and the regiment having received orders to go to the 
 front, the lad accompanied the regiment to Paducah, Ky., 
 acting as cook and general boy of all work to the Surgeon 
 of the regiment, Dr. Hoagland, and then with the regi- 
 ment up the Tennessee River to Pittsburg Landing, where 
 General Grant's army was concentrating, after the sur- 
 render of Fort Donelson, to march on Corinth, Miss. 
 
 He was with the regiment on Sunday morning, April 
 6th, when the Federal Army was attacked near Shiloh 
 Church by the Confederate Army, under command of 
 General Albert Sidney Johnston, but beinff a non-
 
 io CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 combatant he did not participate in the battle, and could 
 not be held responsible for the "surprise" and the defeat 
 of the Federal Army on April 6th, nor the credit for the 
 recovery of the lost ground by the union of Grant and 
 Buel's forces on Monday, April 7th, but was present and 
 saw the bloody tragedy enacted in that, one of the greatest 
 battles of the Civil War. The regiment was soon after 
 ordered to Clarksville, Tennessee, and soon thereafter, 
 on account of serious eye trouble, the lad abandoned the 
 trade of war and returned to the quiet of the school room. 
 
 For the services rendered with the regiment, after the 
 Civil War, at an annual reunion, T. W. Brotherton was 
 elected an honorary member, and is now carried as such 
 on the regimental roll, although never enlisted in that 
 regiment. At a reunion held at Tippecanoe City he was 
 invited to and delivered the annual address, depicting 
 some of the history of the regiment and its heroic service. 
 
 Having war fever on the brain and being unable to 
 keep his mind on his studies, on the fifteenth of Feb- 
 ruary, 1864, young Brotherton, then having reached the 
 mature age of sixteen years, but about twelve years in 
 stature, enlisted in Company I of the First Ohio Cavalry, 
 as a bugler, but still, as ever, dumb if not deaf, on the 
 subject of bugle notes, and was sent with his regiment 
 to the front at Nashville, Tennessee. The chief bugler 
 of the regiment, after trying our subject out, reported 
 that for a musician he was "no good," v. hereupon the 
 Colonel assigned him to duty as regimental postmaster, 
 and there in the postoffice he fought most of his battles 
 in deciphering badly written addresses. 
 
 He went through the war until its close, acting as 
 orderly for General Alexander on the "Wilson Raid"
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH u 
 
 and performing such active duties as fell to his lot, never 
 for a day being in the hospital or reporting for "quinine." 
 At the cessation of hostilities he was detailed by Brevet 
 Brigadier-General B. B. Eggleston as Military Postmaster 
 of the city of Atlanta, and had full charge of the office 
 until ordered to Hilton Head, South Carolina, where he 
 was mustered out on September 13, 1865, and sent home 
 by steamer from there to Xew York. 
 
 John P. Rea was the captain of the company in which 
 Bugler Brotherton served, and became Commander- 
 in-chief of the G. A. R., and in an address delivered at 
 Dayton. Ohio, as reported in the Herald of that city. 
 March 24, 1888, said : "Well do I remember Comrade 
 Brotherton here. He was more than a comrade to me. 
 I remember that when Brotherton got into the army, 
 he was too young to enter except merely as a bugler, 
 but I remember very well that at the sound of battle 
 he threw away his bugle and seized a carbine." The 
 Captain had forgotten that the Chief had taken the 
 bugle away a month before the first engagement which 
 took place between Decatur and Courtland in Alabama. 
 
 On his return from the Civil War he finished his 
 course in the Piqua High School, and then entered the 
 Classical Course at the Ohio Wesleyan University at 
 Delaware. O., and was graduated in the class of 1868. 
 In 187 1. the University conferred the degree of A. M. 
 He had read law and was admitted to the bar by the 
 Supreme Court of Ohio in December. 1868. In the 
 next year he was engaged and assisted in the defense 
 of the famous John W. King murder case at Lima. O., 
 in which case his brother, John F. Brotherton, was the 
 prosecuting attorney and represented the State.
 
 12 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 On March 15th, 1870, he was married at Covington, 
 Ky., to Mary S. Caffray, and pursued his profession 
 of the law at Delphos, O., where they lived until her 
 decease on the 13th day of January, 1872, preceded by 
 the loss of her infant son. This double affliction caused 
 him to give up his law business, to move away from 
 the scene of his grief, and to enter Newton Theological 
 Seminary at Newton Centre, Mass., where he spent the 
 next seminary year. 
 
 On his return to Piqua, he was invited to become the 
 pastor of his home church, the First Baptist, where he 
 had been brought up and was baptized into membership 
 in 1866, which call he accepted. At the end of one year 
 severe ophthalmic affliction compelled him to give up 
 further service in the ministry. He returned to the 
 practice of the law, to which he seemed better adapted. 
 
 September 24th, 1873, he married Hulda R. Hall, 
 daughter of Hon. Jennison Hall, of Piqua, and from 
 such union two children are now living, Mary Myrtle, 
 married April 13, 1904, to Theodore Morrow Criley, of 
 Kansas City, now of Chicago ; and Theodore Willard 
 Brotherton, now living in Los Angeles. 
 
 In 1883, when Hon. J. B. Foraker was first nominated 
 for Governor of Ohio, Mr. Brotherton was requested 
 by the Republican Executive Committee of the State to 
 assist in the campaign, and was assigned to speak with 
 Foraker and Senator Sherman in northwestern Ohio, 
 and discussed from the same platform, the political ques- 
 tions of the day. Governor Foraker said that Mr. 
 Brotherton was one of the foremost lawyers of the State, 
 and on his own motion suggested his appointment to 
 fill a vacancy on the Supreme Bench of Ohio. While 
 practicing law at Wapakoneta his junior partner was
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 13 
 
 Hon. George R. Davis, at present one of the Judges of 
 the Superior Court of Los Angeles County. 
 
 At Lima, O., in 1886. Mr. Brotherton. without being 
 a candidate before the convention for the nomination, 
 was unanimously nominated for Congress by the Re- 
 publicans of the 5th Ohio Congressional District, and 
 while not successful in a strongly Democratic district, 
 he led his ticket. As a delegate to the State Convention 
 he was selected as the member of the Committee on 
 Resolutions from his congressional district, and was ap- 
 pointed by Maj. McKinley, who was chairman of the 
 committee, as one of a sub-committee to prepare the 
 resolutions for submission to the committee. 
 
 In 1885, the Dayton, O., Journal and others sought 
 to nominate Mr. Brotherton for Lieutenant-Governor of 
 Ohio on the ticket with Foraker. The Journal in its 
 issue of May 28th said: "For years T. W. Brotherton, 
 of Wapakoneta, has sustained the Republican cause 
 without hope of local reward and at a constant sacrifice 
 of time and means. His friends, therefore, on their own 
 motion, propose to do what they can to bring him some 
 general recognition for his services by presenting his 
 name for the Lieutenant-Governorship. His acquaint- 
 ances here speak of him as a gentleman of character and 
 ability who would worthily fill any office in the gift of 
 the people of the State." His name was presented to 
 the convention at Springfield by Gen. C. H. Grosvenor 
 of Athens and duly seconded, but before a vote was 
 taken Mr. Brotherton withdrew his name, although 
 strongly urged by Mr. Foraker, the nominee for Gov- 
 ernor, to allow it to remain. 
 
 He removed to Dayton shortly after, and engaged in
 
 14 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 the practice of law with Judge C. W. Dustin, now on 
 the Circuit Bench of Ohio. 
 
 He removed to Los Angeles in 1890, where with 
 others he organized the Citizens' Bank, and as President 
 and Manager carried it successfully through the panic 
 of 1893, and remained President until 1897, when he 
 resigned. 
 
 He was admitted to the bar by the Supreme Court of 
 California and by the United States Circuit Court for 
 the Southern District of California, and before each of 
 these courts has appeared in important cases, although 
 not seeking a general practice. 
 
 Mr. Brotherton in a short address, when standing on 
 one of the summits, of the Sierra Madre Range of 
 mountains, offered a resolution that the unnamed peak 
 on which they stood should be called Mount Lowe, in 
 honor of Prof. Lowe, who had built the trail to the top 
 and was projecting the mountain railway, and the reso- 
 lution so offered was unanimously adopted. The name 
 Mount Lowe now greets the circummundane traveler at 
 every hostelry on the tourist routes encircling the world, 
 and the writer in the summer of 1903, when visiting the 
 summit of Mt. Rigi in Switzerland, heard of Mt. Lowe 
 as one of the mountain resorts well worth a visit. 
 
 Mr. Brotherton was for many years a member of the 
 Los Angeles Chamber of Commerce, and delivered the 
 annual address at the banquet held at the Redondo Hotel 
 in 1896. On February 28th of that year, at the request 
 of the Merchants' and Manufacturers' Association, he 
 delivered an address in the Assembly Room of the 
 Chamber of Commerce on the subject of "Reform in 
 the Assessment and Collection of Taxes in the State of 
 California," in appreciation whereof the Association,
 
 BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 15 
 
 the Board of Trade, and Chamber of Commerce printed 
 fifty thousand copies for circulation, and the Board of 
 Trade of Sacramento ordered five thousand copies for 
 circulation at the State Capital. Mr. Brotherton in that 
 year was asked to be a candidate for District Delegate 
 to the National Convention of the Republican party to 
 be held at St. Louis, but declined to enter the contest. 
 The Los Angeles Times on April 28th. 1896, in an 
 editorial favoring Mr. Brotherton for such delegate, 
 said: "The gentleman is a man of strength, business 
 experience, and political convictions. He thinks well 
 on his feet and knows how to utter his thoughts in a 
 way to convince the minds and arouse the enthusiasm of 
 his auditors. Mr. Brotherton is a suitable and efficient 
 man for district delegate to the National Republican 
 Convention. The Times says this on the merits, not 
 knowing his views on the subject." 
 
 Later Mr. Brotherton was nominated for State Sen- 
 ator from the Thirty-fourth Senatorial District by the 
 non-partisan convention, wholly unsought by the nom- 
 inee, and was cordially supported by all of the leading 
 papers of Los Angeles. The 'Times supporting him No- 
 vember 4th, 1906, said: "Theodore \V. Brotherton is a 
 man in whom the utmost confidence can be placed by 
 the people. His name is a synonym for integrity and 
 for strong, decent manhood." 
 
 The Express, November 5th, 1906. said: "Honored 
 wherever he is known, man of great business ability, 
 free from corporation affiliations, is sacrificing financial 
 interests in accepting office, a man who will prove an 
 honor to his section if elected." 
 
 The Herald, Democratic, October 26th, 1906, said: 
 "Mr. Brotherton should receive the vote of every Re- 
 publican and of every Democrat opposed to the push and 
 machine element in each party."
 
 16 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 The Hollywood Citizen, Independent, October 13th, 
 1906, said : "One of the brainiest men in the Cahuenga 
 Valley is T. W. Brotherton, candidate for State Senate. 
 He is a man of affairs, of experience, of high repute, an 
 old soldier, a scholar, a gentleman, an orator and a good 
 fellow." 
 
 His business interests have been many and varied, in 
 erecting many business blocks, dwelling houses, and 
 planting many orchards, road building, and otherwise 
 improving city and country in a busy life. He is a 
 member of the Stanton Post, G. A. R., of the California 
 Club, the Young Men's Christian Association, the Fed- 
 eration Club, and of Temple Baptist Church. 
 
 Believing that intoxicating liquors and tobacco are 
 injurious to the physical, mental and moral health, he 
 has actively sought to promote temperance by total 
 abstinence, and has advocated from the platform' the 
 abolition of the saloon as the most demoralizing agency 
 in America. He served one year as the President for 
 Southern California of the Anti-Saloon League, and has 
 always contributed to its support. In many public ad- 
 dresses he has advocated a clean manhood and civic right- 
 eousness. When a member of the Memorial Church he 
 served as Trustee for many years. Believing that edu- 
 cation and religion are the anchors of safety for the 
 Republic, he always contributed to the spread of the 
 Gospel and in the erection of houses of worship and edu- 
 cational institutions. 
 
 The last few years, having retired from professional 
 and other business, he has spent a large part of his time 
 in home and foreign travel, and wrote the letters pub- 
 lished in this volume while making the tour of the 
 world.
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN. 
 
 Letters From a Former Well-known Citizen Who 
 Is Making the Journey Around the World — In- 
 cidents of the Voyage From San Francisco to 
 Yokohama. 
 
 Yokohama, Japan, March 26, 1909. 
 Ed. Republican : 
 
 If you think it worth while to give these random 
 notes to vour readers vou may do so. 
 
 OX March 9th we sailed out of the Golden Gate at 
 San Francisco Bay, passing the old brick fort 
 and the Farallones into the storm-tossed Pacific 
 Ocean. The sea was very rough the first night out, 
 and few of the passengers were at the dinner table. 
 The steamer lurched to one side, and over went fully 
 one-third of the dishes onto the floor of the dining 
 saloon. Many of the passengers who were not ill be- 
 fore now began to leave the tables and make, like 
 drunken men and women, for their staterooms. The 
 waiters were all Chinese, dressed in long, flowing robes 
 of blue, with long queues hanging down their backs, 
 and as they flew around the saloon with their pigtails 
 at right angles it was a weird sight. The angry waves 
 dashed over the decks, the night was dark, the storm 
 was raging, and we could only say: "We will stand the 
 storm, it won't be long — we'll anchor bye and bye." 
 Mrs. B. being somewhat ill, and thinking from the creak- 
 2
 
 18 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 ing of the ship that we might soon be shipwrecked 
 mariners, had me take down from the ceiling of the state- 
 room a life preserver and show her how it should be 
 put on in case of emergency. I put my arms through 
 the shoulder straps, drew the straps across the waist and 
 tied them, then buttoned the strap across the chest and 
 then was ready armed for the fight against the elements ; 
 but to pacify and encourage remarked that "Heaven was 
 just as near to the sea as to the land," so we should not 
 fear, for the same God ruleth over all. The perils of 
 the sea seem more apparent and alarming than those of 
 the land. 
 
 The next day the storm was gone, and we were out 
 on the deep sailing on and on, in our globe-circling 
 trip, leaving home and loved ones farther and farther 
 behind, pur first lap out of sight of land was twenty- 
 one hundred miles from San Francisco to Honolulu, 
 nearly as far by sea as from Chicago to Los Angeles by 
 land. We passed but one ship on the way, the "Siberia," 
 returning from Asiatic shores. After five days of un- 
 eventful sailing we reached Honolulu, on the island of 
 Oahu ( Wahu), on the morning of Monday, March 15th. 
 The Hawaiian group of islands (formerly called Sand- 
 wich because the islanders used the chance visitor for 
 sandwich purposes) are south of latitude 22 degrees, 
 the same degree as the City of Mexico, and being in the 
 tropics it was very warm and humid. My usually 
 raucous voice had left me and I could not speak above 
 a whisper. 
 
 The port was a busy place, where we entered after the 
 yellow flag, denoting that our ship was in quarantine, 
 had been pulled down from the masthead. The United 
 States health officer had inspected us and had given us
 
 PACIFIC OCEAX 19 
 
 a clean bill of health, sea-sickness being considered an 
 upheaving, but not a dangerous nor infectious malady. 
 As the ship entered the narrow entrance channel between 
 the buoys and came into the harbor, we saw the United 
 States Transport Logan, with thirteen hundred men of 
 the 13th United States Regiment, stranded on a coral 
 reef and unable to get off, although assisted by tugs and 
 finally by a British man-of-war. The docks were lined 
 with people, for the coming of a steamer was a great 
 event in the current news of the island. The reporters 
 for the daily papers — Honolulu being a city of sixty 
 thousand people — came on board to interview the dis- 
 tinguished men on the steamer. Somehow my fame had 
 not reached the island, and I escaped an interview. I 
 asked Purser Allen of the ship how they came to over- 
 look me, and he said we had so many distinguished men 
 on the boat that he could not discriminate, so he told 
 the reporters that we were all eminent American trav- 
 elers. After landing we hired an automobile and took 
 in the sights of the city and surrounding country. It is 
 certainly a charming spot in a tropical sea with luxuri- 
 ance of vegetation surpassing anything that we had ever 
 seen. The aquarium on the island was of special in- 
 terest, being filled with the finest collection of fishes of 
 variegated colors, curious shapes, and far better than 
 the government exhibit at the Jamestown Exposition, 
 although that was extremely fine and well worth seeing. 
 The parks with the palms, cocoanut and other rare and 
 curious trees were worth a long journey to see. We 
 went to the country and saw the Japs and Kanaka> 
 working in the rice fields knee deep in the water for 
 the pitiful sum of forty cents per day. The sugar cane 
 fields were extensive, the banana groves were well
 
 20 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 fruited. The most curious of all to me was the cocoa- 
 nut trees, the nuts being in many cases twenty-five to 
 thirty feet from the ground, and the tree without stem 
 or branch of any kind. Surely a monkey and only a 
 monkey could climb them. We crossed a country bridge 
 with our machine, the torrential stream overflowing some 
 twelve inches over the bridge. The country is very 
 fertile, water abundant, and vegetation extremely rank 
 in growth. Returning to the city we visited the mar- 
 kets, the first Christian church, established in the islands 
 in 1820, the tomb of Queen Lil, the statue of King 
 Kamehaha, and the Palace, where the Legislature was 
 in session. Many members could not understand Eng- 
 lish speaking — the old islanders — so the English-speak- 
 ing members would address the assembly, and an in- 
 terpreter would explain or translate into the Kanaka 
 language what was said, or what the interpreter might 
 think was said ; the slow method of speech and trans- 
 lation was tedious and gave time for thought as well 
 as for forgetfulness. The Supreme Court was in ses- 
 sion across the park, and I had met Mrs. Rallou, wife 
 of the Chief Justice, and might have had an introduc- 
 tion to the Chief Justice. I was not courting, but sight- 
 seeing, and passed on. The Alexander Young hotel, 
 where I stopped to mail a letter, is a very large and 
 modern hotel. 
 
 We returned to the steamer about five o'clock p.m. 
 after a day of strenuous work on the land, dining largely 
 on cocoanuts, drinking the milk, on sliced pineapples, of 
 which I took two helpings ; of papia, a melon which I 
 did not like, but which Mrs. B. adored, and ate my por- 
 tion as well as her own. and a very sweet and delicious 
 banana and a very good native fish. Leaving my wife
 
 PACIFIC OCEAN 21 
 
 and a lady friend to shop, which women so dearly love 
 and men abominate, I went out on a street car to mingle 
 with the common people and to sit at the feet of the 
 natives and learn. A native school girl about fourteen 
 told me of the children and the schools. She said all 
 the children now speak and read the English language 
 and are giving up the tongue of the fathers and mothers. 
 I walked out under the trees and examined the growth 
 and foliage. The roads are good, the business is done 
 by the Americans largely, and it is a valuable outpost 
 for civilization and defense. It was a very fortunate 
 thing for the United States that when Paramount Blount 
 pulled down the flag it did not stay down. The islanders 
 were very immoral, incompetent to govern, corrupt in 
 the extreme, and could not have remained in control. 
 
 Sailing on and on, our next run was for thirty-five 
 hundred and forty-five miles, much farther than from 
 Boston to San Francisco, and no important event oc- 
 curred until we reached the 180th degree of west longi- 
 tude Thursday night at midnight. We went to bed on 
 Thursday night, and when we got up in the morning it 
 was Saturday morning, and Friday was lost and lost 
 forever. On Thursday we were in the Occident west of 
 Greenwich, and on Saturday we were in the Orient east 
 of London ; then we were at the setting of the sun, now 
 we are at the rising thereof. Mrs. B. and I, when in 
 London, rode down the Thames to Greenwich, where 
 time is taken, and now we were twelve hours earlier, or 
 had just circled one-half around this globe of ours. We 
 are now circling the other half. We now speak of Ohio as 
 way out West ; at home we called it "back East/' This 
 is a long and barren stretch of water from Honolulu to 
 the island empire of Japan. In more than three thou-
 
 22 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 sand males we have not seen a sail, steamer, land or a 
 sea monster; only now and then a flying fish or an 
 albatross flying after the ship in hopes of dining off 
 our garbage cast into the sea. 
 
 Surely it is as the Ancient Mariner has said, "Water, 
 water, everywhere, nor any drop to drink." Why this 
 earth was made three-fourths water and only one-fourth 
 land we can now understand, for it was made to sail 
 on and to give us restless Americans a chance to go to 
 the sea in ships. 
 
 Our ship, the "Korea," is indeed a staunch craft, and 
 under the command of Captain Sandberg, an English- 
 man by birth, with a German name, but now an Ameri- 
 can by adoption, is entitled to our praise and gratitude 
 for our safe, happy and gratifying voyage. Land in 
 sight ! There sits Yokohama in the pride of her 
 strength, and near, only eighteen miles, the "Yeddo" of 
 our geographies, now Tokio, the capital, with two mil- 
 lions of people. Ohayo, pronounced Ohio, means "good 
 morning" in Japanese.
 
 JAPAN. 
 
 Laborers in the Field and Shop Work Ten Hours 
 a Day for Thirty-five Cents — English Lan- 
 guage Is Compulsory in the Schools — Temples 
 of Beautiful Architecture — Intensive Farm- 
 ing. 
 
 MlYANOSHITA, SAGAMI, JAPAN, April 5th, I909. 
 
 WE are way up in the mountains of Japan, coming 
 up by railway from Tokio, then electric cars, 
 crossing rivers and canons to Yumoto and then 
 up by jinrikishas. one man pulling, another pushing, up 
 steep mountain roads. It is so cold that we have fire in 
 the room, yet the "riksha" men are clad in blue jackets 
 with white cotton trousers about six inches long, and 
 bare legs with straw sandals on the feet — two men 
 taking us up two or three miles for one yen (50 cents of 
 our money). Japanese money is yen-sen, one hundred 
 in one yen, equal to one-half cent, and the sen is divided 
 into ten rin, equal to one-twentieth of one cent ; but the 
 latter is so small that they are not in circulation, or at 
 least I have not seen one. Another mode of conveyance 
 is by a chair (called kago) carried on the shoulders of 
 coolies, four coolies to each person, with the chair sus- 
 pended on poles, on the shoulders, two men before and 
 two behind. The men are very strong, active and 
 muscular, and live almost entirely on rice, fish and 
 vegetables. Americans would starve to death on what 
 Japanese consume.
 
 24 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 The laborers in the field and shop, working ten hours 
 per day, receive seventy sen per day, or thirty-five cents 
 of our money. In manufacturing fine articles in jewelry 
 and high-class work, the proprietor tells me that he pays 
 the highest of wages, three yen (one dollar and fifty 
 cents of our money). The Japanese are particularly 
 bright and learn with much quickness. I talked yester- 
 day with a Japanese girl just out of high school, who 
 spoke in English, German and French. In the schools 
 English is compulsory, and all the pupils are required to 
 take English for one or two hours each day. 
 
 At every railway station the name of the station and 
 the names of all places of special interest in the vicinity 
 are printed in both Japanese and English. I have no 
 doubt but that in fifty years Japan will be an English- 
 speaking nation, and that in time the Japanese language 
 will die out. Even Germans and French doing business 
 in the cities here are compelled to learn English to carry 
 on the transactions of commerce. 
 
 I have been through the country for two or three 
 hundred miles to see the fields of rice, tea, barley, bam- 
 boo (we ate bamboo sprouts at lunch yesterday), and all 
 kinds of vegetables. They cultivate every foot of ground 
 that can be reached, terracing up the hillsides, and there 
 is no waste land that is at all possible for cultivation. 
 When we passed along the roads in rikshas, the men 
 and women working in the fields would not even stop 
 and look ; they were too busy. When we came into a 
 village, then the women and children would gather 
 around us in great curiosity. When we passed through 
 Shiba Park at Tokio, the crowds of people would gather 
 around us as though were were some great curiosity on 
 exhibition.
 
 $&&' 
 
 - - 
 
 PaC.iiHA. 1,1'J'T Id Rll'.HT 
 
 T. W. Kkotiikktox. 
 (.'. M. Stimson. 
 
 I A I II l-;u 1 \i: 1. I IK' 1 1 KSTKK 
 I'll I UK X \ KA M I'll A.
 
 JAPAN 27 
 
 Tokio has more than two millions. Women, girls and 
 bovs carry babies strapped to their backs, and the num- 
 ber of babies would indicate that the chief industry in 
 Japan is to raise babies. They will overflow into Korea 
 if the doors of the Pacific States are closed against 
 them ; there must be some outlet for this overcrowded 
 nation. We visited Nikko, where the finest Japanese 
 temples are located, both Shinto and Buddhist. Mr. 
 McCormick, a missionary at Osaka, tells me that there 
 are but one hundred and fifty thousand Christians in the 
 Empire. 
 
 The Diabutsu (Great Buddha) at Kamakura is a 
 Buddha of surpassing beauty as far as architecture is 
 concerned. We went inside and ascended the stairway, 
 and failed to see "The Peace of Nirvana," only a brass 
 image. We visited the picturesque island of Enoshima. 
 The worshipers at the temples cast great quantities of 
 money before the shrines, but I notice that nearly all 
 were sens (one-half cent), or rins, of still less value, 
 showing that the worshipers were very poor or thought 
 the god did not need much revenue. Some of the 
 lacquer work in the temples was very expensive and 
 had been there for many years. The groves of crypto- 
 meria trees, some one thousand years old, surrounding 
 the Nikko temples, were majestic in their stateliness and 
 beauty. The houses in the country are without chim- 
 neys or windows, rice paper in the day being used 
 for light, and the fires built for cooking mostly on the 
 outside. The roofs are covered with straw, thatched, 
 and indicated great poverty among the lower classes. 
 The bathtub is a water box on the outside, and a bam- 
 boo screen protects from the street, and it is so open 
 that you can easily see the nude body from the street.
 
 28 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 Men, women and children bathe in the same water. 
 This is, of course, among the poorer classes. All the 
 houses, shops and stores are built with sliding screens 
 to make separate rooms. The stores are all open to the 
 street in the daytime, and at night wooden sliding doors 
 close up the goods. In the cities the windows are all 
 iron-barred, and everything indicates a great protec- 
 tion from thieves, which are very numerous in Japan. 
 In the hotels we have pretty Japanese girls to wait on 
 us at the table, to come into the room before we are up 
 to build the fire, and to bring hot water. They are ex- 
 ceedingly polite, and bow so charmingly that you cannot 
 help but hand over a few sens. They put on the bed a 
 kimono to wear to the bath, fur rugs by the bed with 
 pretty Japanese slippers for your wear about the room 
 (if you can keep them on, but which I find very difficult). 
 We have lots of little attentions and plenty of good 
 things to eat, so that a few weeks' stay in Japan is very 
 fascinating and pleasant. 
 
 On our return from Nikko we made a second visit 
 in Tokio, where we stopped at the Imperial hotel and 
 found our promised passes from the American Embassy 
 to visit the palace at Nagoya. 
 
 The cherry trees in Shiba Park were just beginning 
 to bloom, but it was too early in the season for the per- 
 fected blossom. 
 
 We start for Nagoya today, then to Kioto, a former 
 capital, then to Osaka, and expect to sail from Kobe on 
 the 1 2th for Shanghai, China. There are too many in- 
 teresting things to attempt to give you more than a 
 passing glimpse.
 
 JAPAN 29 
 
 Spends Three Weeks in Japan, Traveling by Rail, 
 Trolley and Riksha — The People Are Indus- 
 trious, Hardy, Quick to Learn — Polite on the 
 Surface, But Alert To Do You Up in Purchases. 
 
 Nagasaki, Japan, April 14th, 1909. 
 
 NEARLY three weeks have been spent in Japan 
 observing the people, shops, trading, farming, 
 production, and methods of work and transporta- 
 tion. 
 
 The people are industrious, very hardy, wonderfully 
 quick to learn, exceedingly polite on the surface, but 
 always alert to do you up in purchases. Goods are 
 marked up and they expect you to jew them down on 
 price, and however cheap you buy, the bargain is on the 
 side of the Japanese. Flimsy construction, linsey wool- 
 sey material in gaudy colorings, and with the exception 
 of carved wood, inlaid work, hand-made lacquer and 
 work on metal, not very desirable. The shops have 
 large quantities of American, German and other foreign 
 goods. The number of small stores, or shops in the 
 sense of stores, is really surprising, street after street 
 lined with them. The streets are very narrow, generally 
 not more than twelve to sixteen feet in width, without 
 sidewalks, and filled with men, women and babies, espe- 
 cially the latter. 
 
 The population is immense, nearly forty-five millions 
 of people on the islands of Japan, and the whole not much 
 larger than the State of California. 
 
 I visited a grist mill in Kobe and saw three men en- 
 gaged in grinding rice. Each stood on the end of a
 
 30 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 beam with a hammer on the end, the beams, three in 
 number, being raised by the weight of the man and then 
 stepping off, the beam fell, and with its weight crushed 
 the grain, something like a pestle and mortar, and as 
 primitive as the rude savage of the forest. On the road 
 the other clay from Kioto, a former capital of Japan, to 
 Lake Biwa, we passed the carts hauling in the freight. 
 The cart has a long, narrow body made of two poles 
 about twelve to fourteen feet in length, two feet wide, 
 and balanced on the axle between two wheels and loaded 
 so that the center of gravity of the load rests on the 
 axle, the wheels making a tread of about three feet. 
 These carts, loaded with stone and other heavy material, 
 are usually drawn by big shorthorn bulls, sometimes by a 
 shaggy horse, and again by men or women working by 
 the side of men. The boats in Biwa canal (tunneled 
 through the mountains for several miles) going up 
 stream were pulled by men and women ; in going down 
 by the current of water. Fishing is a great industry 
 here, and the people largely live on fish, vegetables and 
 rice. Quantities of tea is grown, and tea drinking is one 
 of the greatest sights in Japan. Tea houses always con- 
 nect with the theater and form the first act in the play. 
 The theaters have no comedies, and while tragedies are 
 enacted, the only thing I can commend is the poetry of 
 motion. There is no animation in the actresses, and the 
 yawling from the stages sounds like tommy cats on the 
 back fence ; but the handsome costumes and flipping of 
 fans and conrtesying and kotowing is picturesque to say 
 the least. We secured entrance at Kioto to the former 
 Imperial residence, and saw some very handsome ceilings 
 of old wood beams decorated with copper and brass
 
 JAPAN 31 
 
 clamps, and many screens finished in pure gold and costly 
 figures of birds of all varieties. They have had neither 
 lions nor tigers in Japan, and in painting them on screens 
 they are very amusing to one who has seen the real 
 animal. The gardens are neatly trimmed, and the trees 
 are small, but very pretty. The throne where the 
 Emperor sat is on a raised platform with a railing in 
 front, and the people bend low in the presence of His 
 Majesty. Handshaking and kissing are not customary 
 in Japan, and swapping of microbes in other lands may 
 not be conducive to health. 
 
 Kioto is a city of nearly one-half million of people and 
 represents the old Japan, prior to its opening up by 
 Commodore Perry in 1854; while Yokohama, Osaka and 
 Kobe, with nearly a half million people, each, more 
 nearly exhibits the new or awakened Japan. The seas 
 here are so full of craft of all kinds, from the modern 
 steamship to the ancient sampan, that the Japanese have 
 become a seafaring people, and as sailors are hard to 
 excel. We have passed through Tsushima straits, near 
 Shimonoseki on the Japan Sea, where one of the greatest 
 naval battles of modern times was fought, and where the 
 Japanese navy destroyed the Russian fleet in the late 
 war, May, 1905. 
 
 These are intended as "rambling notes from a globe 
 eircler" and not a statistical or guide book account of a 
 tour. We climbed up the long stairways of the Nagoya 
 Castle and looked out from the windows upon the 
 maneuver field of a division of the Japanese army. The 
 artillery corps with horses, caissons and modern guns, 
 drilled with the precision and accuracy of a German army.
 
 32 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 The cavalry drilled in squadrons in fours and in file, with 
 a horsemanship that was surprising. The infantry de- 
 ployed as skirmishers, fell to the ground and went 
 through the actual work of a line in battle formation. 
 The Japanese horses for the carrying of rapid firing 
 guns and ammunition and provisions were all on the 
 ground ready for actual work, as though the call to arms 
 might be heard any minute. They are certainly becom- 
 ing trained as soldiers, and discipline and obedience are 
 taught from youth up, so that an army of equal numbers 
 can hardly equal, if excel them„ and as an enemy they 
 are not to be ignored nor despised, and any nation that 
 engages in war with them will find that they have been 
 in a fight, and not a skirmish or mock engagement. 
 
 We have traveled through Japan by rail and trolley 
 and riksha for about six hundred miles and have had 
 the opportunity to see much of Japan and too much to 
 describe in a few letters. 
 
 In passing on yesterday, through the Island sea of 
 Japan, the sea was very smooth, the day clear and the 
 many islands, villages and ships and boats of all kinds 
 on the way gave us an unusually interesting and instruc- 
 tive voyage, in passing the narrow strait at the northern 
 mouth, was Shimonoseki on the right, and Moji on the 
 left, both large and prosperous cities. The former city 
 was the place where the treaty of peace between Japan 
 and China was signed in 1895, when Russia interposed to 
 prevent the cession of territory from China to Japan and 
 thereby incurred the hostility of the latter. Nagasaki is 
 a very important city and is the port at which Japan first 
 received foreign vessels some three hundred years ago, 
 and has about one hundred and fifty thousand people.
 
 JAPAN 33 
 
 Large coal mines are opened up on this western island 
 of the four composing the mainland of Japan. Coal is 
 cheap on account of cheap labor here, and even the 
 Pacific Mail steamers, of the Southern Pacific or Harri- 
 man line, take on their supply of coal at this port. The 
 coal is passed up to the steamer from lighters, in baskets, 
 and carried by men and women side by side, or from 
 hand to hand. I have seen women here time and again 
 doing the work of men, in the fields of rice, tea, barley, 
 bamboo and other products, on the roads pulling and 
 pushing heavy loads, drawing boats, like women of Hol- 
 land, loading brick on cars at the stations, carrying brick 
 and mortar up ladders on high buildings, sweeping refuse 
 from the streets, sprinkling the streets with dippers from 
 buckets of water and doing much more menial work, 
 that only mules and the strongest men are able to do. 
 Many women work in the fields with babies strapped 
 on their backs. The degradation of women in Japan 
 excites our warmest sympathy and causes us to feel that 
 Shinto and Buddha worship does not elevate like the 
 Christian religion. Sir Edwin Arnold's "Light of Asia" 
 is a poetical effusion of merit, but far from a statement 
 of real fact, but deals only in poetic fancies. "The 
 temples, and the gardens, and the groves" are there, but 
 the regenerated life is wanting. This will end my Nip- 
 pon wanderings, and if the spirit moves me, I may send 
 you a few observations from China, for which land we 
 shall sail tonight or tomorrow.
 
 CHINA. 
 
 Sights and Scenes in the Ancient City of Shang- 
 hai, China. 
 
 Hongkong, China, April 20th, 1909. 
 
 WE have now reached Hongkong on our westward 
 journey, only six hundred miles from Manila, 
 and the place from which Admiral Dewey started 
 just about eleven years ago with his squadron to capture 
 or destroy the Spanish fleet. 
 
 Our last day in Japan was spent at Nagasaki, April 
 14th, and while the steamer was being coaled we took a 
 launch and spent some time on shore sightseeing. Tak- 
 ing the rikshas, we wound around through the narrow 
 streets amid the small stores and shops of the city. We 
 visited a small factory devoted to the turning of tortoise 
 shells into combs, hairpins and all kinds of ornaments, 
 showing fine workmanship and a brilliancy of polish 
 unsurpassed. We passed under the largest Torrey in 
 Japan, made of bronze and placed in front of a Shinto 
 temple. We climbed up the high steps to the temple 
 on the top of the hill and had a fine view of the city 
 and the bay filled with all kinds of ships and boats of 
 every form and pattern. We visited the market, filled 
 with all manner of men and women in varied forms of 
 dress, and some with almost no dress at all. The prod- 
 ucts of the garden, the varieties of fish, fowl, game and 
 textures made it of unusual interest. 
 
 We then went down to a bridge crossing a small 
 river, and looking up and down the stream lined on either
 
 CHINA 35 
 
 side with Japanese cherry trees in full bloom for a full 
 half mile, both up and down the river, made one of the 
 most beautiful sights that we have ever seen, and was 
 indeed worth coming many miles to see. It will be long 
 before we will forget the day spent in Nagasaki, and 
 our last day spent in Japan, or Nippon, as the Japanese 
 call the island group of the Japanese Empire. 
 
 The next lap of our journey — across the China or 
 Yellow sea — brought us to Shanghai, China, and we are 
 now in the Celestial Empire. 
 
 The city of Shanghai is on the left bank of the Whang- 
 poo river about thirteen miles above its mouth, where it 
 empties into the great Yangtse-Kiang. Our steamer did 
 not cross the bar to go up to the city, but we embarked 
 on a small steam launch and passed up the river through 
 a myriad of craft of every kind and make. On the right 
 side as we ascended were anchored probably fifteen 
 Chinese war vessels mounted with cannon — such as were 
 used a hundred years ago. All but one were wooden 
 ships and could be turned into kindling wood in a few 
 minutes by a modern battleship. They were used prin- 
 cipally, I was informed, in hunting Chinese pirates that 
 infest the rivers and shores of the sea. The fishing 
 schooners are of very curious construction, with high 
 prows and with a large eye on each side of the prow, 
 the Chinese believing that the ship can see if it has 
 eyes, and can thus avoid dangerous places. Numerous 
 sampans lined the shore, in which the Chinese live and 
 seldom go on shore— the family of children being raised 
 on the boat, and babies, or small children, being tied with 
 a small rope so that if one falls into the sea it can be 
 
 3
 
 36 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 pulled out like a fish on the end of the line. Along the 
 river were numerous cruisers and war vessels of different 
 nations. The cruiser Helena represented the United 
 States, and England, Belgium, Russia, Austria and others 
 each had a war ship at this port. The land up the river, 
 on either side, is low and flat and is protected by levees. 
 
 Shanghai consists of two cities — the new one, where 
 foreigners and Chinese live, and the old walled city of 
 Shanghai, where Chinese alone reside. The combined 
 population approximates four hundred and fifty thou- 
 sand people — two hundred thousand in the new and two 
 hundred and fifty thousand in the old. The new is on 
 the river front, the old inland. The new is constructed 
 of fairly wide streets — well paved, narrow sidewalks, 
 with bank, hotel, store and office buildings of the most 
 modern and up-to-date foreign — not American — produc- 
 tion. The new city is governed by the Internationals, 
 British, Germans, Americans and Japanese — the French 
 having a separate quarter — and a fine police service made 
 up of East Indians in turbans — British soldiers, and one 
 company of United States, and some Chinese — and is a 
 very orderly and well-governed city. It has a very 
 pretty, well-kept park on the Bund and water front, but 
 Chinese — except servants and workmen — are not allowed 
 to enjoy its privileges, and this on Chinese soil. There 
 are many beautiful homes with large, handsome and 
 well-kept grounds ; large cotton mills and other factories, 
 and some large brick college buildings where young 
 Chinese boys and girls are being educated in modern 
 methods and taught the English language. 
 
 The foreigners here are very exclusive, and in their 
 clubs and playgrounds will not admit Chinese of even
 
 CHINA 37 
 
 the highest classes. There are many foreign drug and 
 other stores in the new town, but most of them are kept 
 by Chinese merchants, and all sales are based upon the 
 Mexican dollar, in circulation here, and worth less than 
 fifty cents. I paid at the Palace Hotel for my accom- 
 modations for myself and wife sixteen dollars per day, 
 but in reality less than eight dollars of our money. 
 
 We were invited to attend a regular Chinese dinner in 
 the dining room of the Young Men's Christian Associa- 
 tion building, a very fine- structure costing probably two 
 hundred thousand dollars. The building was opened 
 and dedicated with an address by President Taft when 
 here some years ago. The dinner consisted of some 
 thirty courses. Among others, the famed birds' nests, 
 shark's fins, pigeon eggs and rare and curious mixtures 
 that could only be described by a heathen Chinee. After 
 the dinner addresses were made by the president of the 
 association and a Christian Chinaman graduate of the 
 University of California, and the writer was selected to 
 reply on the part of the foreign visitors. I spoke for 
 about fifteen minutes on my impressions of China and 
 the field for work in this land of superstition and igno- 
 rance, and I esteemed it a special privilege to make an 
 address in far-off Asia to the Chinese. I had the pleas- 
 ure of an introduction to our new United States Judge 
 here who succeeds Judge Wilfley. Judge Thayer kindly 
 invited me to go to his court with him in his carriage — 
 driven by a Chinaman, with a Chinese footman on the 
 seat with the driver. As we went through the streets 
 the police and others gave way before us as though some 
 great dignitaries were passing by. After a visit to the 
 court room, the judge sent me back to my hotel alone, 
 
 3008? 
 
 ^">
 
 38 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 with the same equipage in which we came, and I felt 
 quite elevated with the dignity of my position, and the 
 people in passing wondered, no doubt, what great man 
 it was ! This show in foreign cities is customary with 
 foreigners to impress the people here with their impor- 
 tance, and adds, no doubt, to the awe in which officials are 
 held. The obedience to and reverence for law here is 
 very much greater than in our land. 
 
 We took carriages and drove into the country, and 
 on the way we passed some Chinese prisoners with heads 
 through a board collar about two and one-half feet 
 square, resting on the shoulders, guarded by the police. 
 The prisoner is unable to reach his face to brush off 
 flies or other insects, and further to humiliate him is 
 kept on the sidewalk in full view of passersby. This is 
 a common mode of punishment in China. For a more 
 serious offense they beat and flay the prisoner, and for a 
 still greater one, chop off the head. 
 
 On our way into the country we passed hundreds of 
 graves and many unoccupied coffins. The Chinese, long 
 before death, have a heavy wooden coffin made and then 
 place it out in the field. There it remains uncovered, or 
 sometimes covered with a matting of straw. When 
 death comes the body is embalmed, placed in the coffin 
 resting on the top of the ground, not buried, and then a 
 brick wall is built around it and a tile roof made over 
 the top ; or if too poor to afford such a costly monu- 
 ment, then a mound of earth is thrown over it and there 
 they expect it to remain forever. No fear of grave dig- 
 gers looking for cadavers, for it is held in great venera- 
 tion, and to desecrate a tomb of an ancestor would be 
 considered the greatest crime that could be committed,
 
 CHINA 39 
 
 and could not be forgiven in this, or in the world to 
 come. These graves are not placed in close proximity, 
 but are scattered all over the field, and the ground is 
 tilled around them, but the tombs are never disturbed. 
 The mound around the coffin often covers an area of 
 twenty feet, and thousands of acres are taken from culti- 
 vation, where, if the tombs were condensed, they could 
 be placed in a ten-acre field. This interferes with rail- 
 way construction, and I am told that the railway line 
 built from Shanghai to Xoosung, a distance of thirteen 
 miles, was torn up, time and again, and finally the 
 Chinese government bought the line and removed it, and 
 all because it ran over some of these graves, which it 
 could not help doing to have a straight line. When a 
 piece of land is conveyed, the tomb is made an incum- 
 brance on it so as to prevent its removal. 
 
 The principal productions of the country are rice, tea, 
 barley and vegetables, and the seas abound in fish. In 
 going out of the mouth of the great river, we could stand 
 on the deck of our steamer and count full}- three hundred 
 fishing schooners in sight at one time. 
 
 New Shanghai has a good trolley system and it is well 
 patronized, the cars being divided in the middle with a 
 door, the front part for first-class and the rear part for 
 second-class passengers, the fares of the latter being 
 about one-half of the former. They have in the city 
 automobiles, carriages, rikshas and wheelbarrows — not 
 many of the former, a good many rikshas and numerous 
 wheelbarrows for both men and goods. I saw only three 
 Sedan chairs, the old means of conveyance, and these 
 are rapidly passing away. On a wheelbarrow one man 
 often wheels ten persons, and the fare is one penny each, 
 or one-half cent of our monev. One wheel in the center
 
 4 o CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 and a board on either side on which the passengers sit, 
 back to back, and when they are not equally balanced, 
 the wheel man groans and struggles to keep his barrow 
 from uptipping. Nearly all goods, household and mer- 
 chandise, are conveyed around the city in this mode of 
 conveyance. Coolie Chinese labor costs about ten cents 
 per day, so that horses, mules, drays and wagons are not 
 seen on the street. Human pack horses with poles over 
 their shoulders, carry great loads sufficient to break 
 down an army mule, and you wonder how they can en- 
 dure it. 
 
 The old city of Shanghai — an old city before America 
 was discovered — is a walled city and typical of old China. 
 There are some eighteen hundred walled cities in the 
 empire, which contains four hundred millions of people — 
 about ten times as many as in Japan — and yet Japan 
 could whip great big, inert China without the least 
 trouble. The wall is about sixteen feet high and is about 
 four miles in extent. 
 
 We passed through the north gate on foot, for no 
 vehicles of any kind can enter here, as the streets, in- 
 cluding sidewalks, are not more than eight feet wide 
 and thronged with crowds of humanity, so that you 
 have to wedge your way through. The gate makes two 
 or three turns in going through and is purposely made 
 very crooked, as the Chinese believe that evil spirits can- 
 not turn corners and hence are unable to enter the gates 
 of the city. The streets are equally crooked, and for 
 the same reason. We had two guides — Chinese — one 
 before and one ueliind, for if one were lost in this laby- 
 rinth of narrow passageways, it would be very difficult 
 to get out. The city is one teeming mass of filth, no 
 sewers, and stench and smell that makes one nauseous
 
 CHINA 41 
 
 and sick. Beggars on every corner with eyeless sock- 
 ets — without noses, ears, arms or legs — mutilated so 
 that almost all semblance of humanity is lost. The 
 poverty, misery and want, the ignorance, superstition and 
 filth indescribable, the temples and temple worship, the 
 acme of credulity and lack of reverence. We entered 
 the temples, and standing before them, were ugly im- 
 ages that were supposed to go about the city at night 
 and drive away the evil spirits. In the temples were 
 men and women bowing down before molten images of 
 brass and cut stone and calling on these dumb idols for 
 help, and in cauldrons burning strips of paper contain- 
 ing prayers and invocations — and this and more, and 
 yet no asylums for the gibbering insane and lunatics 
 around the temple — no refuges for the deaf and dumb 
 and blind — no infirmaries for the poor and helpless — 
 no hospitals for the sick and afflicted — no, these are the 
 products of Christian, not of heathen lands. The old 
 city is a subject of pity, and the only hope is for the 
 younger generation of Chinese to get inoculated with the 
 spirit of progress and Christian culture. Of all the 
 strange and curious sights in old Shanghai I cannot 
 write. 
 
 In passing on to this city of Hongkong we passed 
 through between China and the Island of Formosa, 
 formerly belonging to China, but given to Japan as 
 indemnity in the China-Japanese war of 1895 and now 
 governed and held by them. This city is about 982 
 miles southwest of Shanghai and is on an island owned 
 and held by Great Britain. The city of Canton is some 
 ninety miles up the river, and I doubt very much if we 
 will have the time to go up there.
 
 STRAITS SETTLEMENTS. 
 
 Our Correspondent Visits the Cities oe Singapore 
 and Penang, Asia. 
 
 Colombo, Ceylon, May 2nd, 1909. 
 
 MY last letter was from the Island of Hongkong in 
 China, a British concession. It is a little, 
 mountainous island off the southern coast of 
 China, at the mouth of Pearl river, the outlet of the 
 great trade from Canton, a very large and important 
 city ninety miles up the river. We landed at the old 
 Chinese city of Kowloon across the river and went over 
 on ferry boats. The river was full of Chinese craft — 
 fishing boats, loaded with women and children — the 
 latter being raised on the boats. Women do the hard 
 work of rowing the boats — the men working, but ap- 
 parently giving the women the hardest job. I saw one 
 woman, with a baby strapped on her back, and with 
 every movement of the oar the baby would go up and 
 down in a most uncomfortable way. 
 
 The island is very rocky and rises in precipitous 
 heights, with buildings reaching to the summits, and 
 when lit up at night, with electric lights, it presents a 
 magnificent sight. This is one of the best harbors in 
 the world and is visited every year by more than sixty 
 thousand ships, flying the flags of every nation. It may 
 be said that this is the point where the trading ships of 
 the Occident and the Orient meet — to exchange the mer- 
 chandise of the East and West.
 
 1 iARHKn, Si ncai'i 
 C". M. Stimsh.v. 
 
 MkS. \. I"'.. [V.MKROV. 
 
 Mrs. 'J'. W. I'irothkrton. 
 
 T. W. ['.R..TIM-RI 
 
 A I ; .. I'o.MFROY
 
 STRAITS SETTLEMENTS 45 
 
 We find at the wharves ships and steamers from Eng- 
 land, Germany, France, Russia, Italy, Holland and 
 America — the Pacific Mail and other American ships 
 ending their journey here — and from Australia, Java 
 and the South Sea Islands. 
 
 Mrs. R. and I were carried through the streets of 
 the city of Hongkong in Sedan chairs on the hacks of 
 four Chinese coolies, nude except loin cloths. They ran 
 with our chairs, giving a swinging motion not altogether 
 unpleasant, but not so comfortable as the rikshas, of 
 which many are used here — but because of the steep 
 hill sides the chairs are required. While it is an Eng- 
 lish town and many live here — but so few in proportion 
 to the number of Chinese that it is really a Chinese 
 city — minus the stench and filth of a real Chinatown. 
 The police are tan black from East India or Sikhs from 
 the British army, and order is well preserved. If a 
 Chinaman does not move on when told, the policeman 
 raps him over the head with a stout wooden cane that 
 commands instant obedience. Here we purchased our 
 helmet hats, white suits, and white shoes, for our voyage 
 into the southern seas. 
 
 In sailing from Hongkong to Singapore, a city only 
 one degree north of the equator — as far south as Brazil 
 in South America — far below the Isthmus of Panama — 
 we go nearly south, skirting the eastern coast of the 
 great peninsula known as India-China and Siam and 
 Malacca. 
 
 At Singapore we found the sun rising at six and set- 
 ting at six o'clock — making a day and night of equal 
 length, and this throughout the entire year. The people 
 are largely black Malays — the skins as dark as polished
 
 46 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 ebony. We took — Mrs. B. and I — a double riksha, 
 pulled by a black man, with only a loin-cloth for cloth- 
 ing, and rode for more than an hour through the streets 
 of the city, at ten p. m., every shop being open and 
 illuminated — the residents sitting out in front of their 
 little homes, with all shades of fantastic wearing apparel, 
 and some with almost no clothing at all — the man on the 
 trot all the time and covering several miles of city streets. 
 We took a carriage in the morning, drawn by a little 
 pony, and went out to the botanical gardens, filled with 
 rare and curious plants. We saw the black pepper of 
 commerce, growing on a vine that looks like our hop 
 vine. They grow bananas, cocoanuts and other tropical 
 fruits. The carting is done on a two-wheeled cart drawn 
 by two buffalo bullocks, such as are often seen in our 
 zoological gardens — with a large hump on the fore- 
 shoulder and very long horns, straight up in the air. 
 The houses — fine dwellings — have no sash nor glass in 
 the windows — only shutters to close during the heat of 
 the day and wholly open at night. The climate is the 
 same throughout the year — always hot and never cold at 
 any time of the year. White suits, helmet hats, white 
 shoes and negligee shirts are worn by the Europeans 
 residing or visiting here. This is called the Straits- 
 Settlement and is controlled by Great Britain, and the 
 trading is largely done by the English. We visited St. 
 Andrews church here, a very handsome edifice of the 
 Church of England. British soldiers and Sikh police 
 preserve order and rule the motley class of Malays, 
 Chinese, Japanese, Johorese and other classes living here, 
 and this is said to be a great resort for men under as- 
 sumed names who have left their native lands for the 
 good of the lands from which they came.
 
 STRAITS SETTLEMENTS 47 
 
 We are now half-way around the world from Wapa- 
 koneta, which is the center of the universe — for if you 
 will go out any clear morning you will observe that the 
 horizon comes down equally distant on all sides. When 
 our sun of today is setting and the day is finished, your 
 sun is just coming up over the eastern horizon. While 
 we have passed through more than ten thousand miles 
 of seas — through storm and stress — fine weather and ill 
 weather — yet here at the equator the seas are as smooth 
 as glass, with scarcely a ripple, and like sheeted silver 
 on a polished mirror, a sight such as we have never 
 seen before. We have to endure much heat and discom- 
 fort, but how can we see the world sitting down at home 
 by our own comfortable fireside? And it is worth all 
 that it costs in time, money and hardship, to get a 
 broader vision of life and to see how people live. 
 
 At Penang, a very prosperous city, up through the 
 Malacca Straits, with the peninsula on one side and the 
 Island of Sumatra on the other, we saw many things of 
 unusual interest. The greatest cocoanut groves that 
 we have ever seen, and cocoanuts in huge piles like wood. 
 Here our conveyance was a large automobile, our chauf- 
 feur a Chinaman, and we sailed through the streets of 
 Penang like mad — the city here not having any speed 
 ordinances — and over the finest of roads out to the city 
 park and botanical gardens — with a waterfall dropping 
 down a height of some five hundred feet. 
 
 There is one thing in passing that I must say of the 
 English — that in all this country she builds splendid 
 roadways and preserves order. The Sikh serves not 
 only as policeman but also as judge. If you have a dis- 
 pute with a native as to riksha, carriage, or other matters, 
 he hears your case patiently and if you are in the right 
 he :^ays to the native, "Move on," and that settles it —
 
 48 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 no delay of justice, no lawyers to intervene, but short, 
 quick and speedy justice. If you are in the wrong he 
 tells you so, and you remedy it, and all is well. There 
 are many tigers here and reptiles — in fact we have some 
 on our boat, caged, of course, going to Europe for 
 zoological gardens. One of our party went out on a 
 trolley car some four miles from Singapore and saw a 
 tiger near the track. The houses in the country are up 
 on poles some six feet or more above the ground, to 
 protect from reptiles and wild animals. 
 
 We visited an old Chinese Buddhist temple at Penang 
 way up on top of a hill, with more than two hundred 
 stone steps in making the ascent, but very beautiful and 
 costly. The climb up is a very hard one, and I thought 
 that only devotees would ascend more than once. It 
 was of very rare and curious workmanship, with the 
 Sacred Elephant and the Chinese Dragon in evidence. 
 There are many wealthy Chinese merchants down in 
 these Straits-Settlements, and as sharp and shrewd 
 tradesmen they are hard to excel. Thousands of acres 
 here at Penang are planted to the cocoanut and the trees 
 are very productive. We took on a very large cargo of 
 tobacco from the island of Java, bound for Holland. We 
 saw in one grove a band of black fellows — probably ten 
 in number — and one yard of calico would have furnished 
 the entire number with clothing. Modesty in attire is 
 not one of the prevailing virtues. 
 
 In crossing over from Penang to this city we go up 
 to the end of the Straits, then cross a portion of the 
 Bay of Bengal and thence into the Indian sea. We have 
 left the smooth seas of the South and are liable in cross- 
 ing over to Aden, Arabia, to encounter one of the great 
 monsoons.
 
 CEYLON. 
 
 Our Correspondent Visits the City of Colombo on 
 the Island of Ceylon — Shipping in the Harbor 
 Is Protected From Monsoons by a Breakwater 
 Costing Twelve Million Dollars — Island of 
 Great Value and Historical Interest. 
 
 Aden, Arabia, May ioth, 1909. 
 
 THE city of Colombo on the island of Ceylon, just 
 south of India, is a very interesting eitv. As you 
 approach it from the sea at night you have a very 
 charming view spread before you. To the south the 
 first flashes of electric light are from the Mount Lavinia 
 Hotel, formerly the vice-regal residence, high on a point 
 above the sea and surrounded with tropical shrubbery 
 and about seven miles out from the city. The next 
 points of light are from the Galle Face Hotel on the 
 beach, fronting a large open space of park, and then 
 follows along the beach a row of electric lights, going 
 down to the landing place — probably one hundred in 
 number — which makes a very brilliant display of light as 
 seen from the ship at sea. 
 
 When we come nearer we enter the great concrete 
 breakwater, more than a mile and a half in length, fully 
 forty feet in depth and probably twenty feet at the base 
 and eight feet wide on top, and costing over twelve mil- 
 lions of dollars. This is to protect shipping from the 
 monsoons that come with terrific force in certain seasons 
 of the year and dash upon this rocky breast. The 
 harbor was full of ships from all European, African and
 
 50 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 Asiatic nations. Two very large and beautiful ships of 
 war represented Germany, and our ship being one of that 
 nation, they gave us salutes and huzzas as we came into 
 the harbor, and the German admiral in command came 
 on board to welcome some friends. We went on land 
 by launch, as our vessel anchored in the harbor, there 
 being no pier or wharf for large vessels. Climbing 
 down steps on the side of our steamer, under the rays 
 of electric light, we entered among the maze of ships 
 and reached the port and our hotel — the Oriental — 
 nearby, at eleven p.m. 
 
 The climate is very hot and sultry at night, and when 
 shown to our room by a Hindoo servant we found on 
 the ceiling two rings with punkas about five feet long, 
 flying back and forth to make a breeze in the room — 
 propelled by electricity. There were two large windows 
 in the room, but no sash nor glass. Instead were two 
 large latticed blinds, full width and height of the win- 
 dow frame and hung on a pivot below and above — thus 
 swinging open and shut — giving two full open windows 
 to the street in front. Two beds in the room with 
 high iron posts on which were suspended mosquito net- 
 ting, and you were completely enclosed in a cage to shut 
 out flies and mosquitos. There we slept our first sleep 
 on land for many days. 
 
 The island of Ceylon is one of great value and of 
 much historical interest. Before our forefathers settled 
 in England and before Greece and Rome were reached, 
 the great Aryan race of people came down here — only 
 five degrees north of the equator and far below the 
 Tropic of Cancer — and settled on this island, driving 
 out, subduing or plundering the aboriginal inhabitants 
 and holding and governing the island until the Dravidians
 
 CEYLON 51 
 
 came down from India and overcame and governed 
 them. The Aryan Sinhalese who settled here have since 
 lived here and bear the strong stamp of the vigorous 
 race from which they sprung. While dark-skinned, they 
 are straight as arrows, carrying themselves erect and 
 with great stateliness — with high foreheads and piercing 
 eyes — a very intelligent race of people. We had one 
 who drove our carriage and acted as guide as well. 
 Not only did he point out the buildings, parks and 
 places of interest, but he could name almost every tree, 
 shrub and plant and could point out Mohammedan, 
 Hindoo, Sinhalese and other races and characteristics 
 of each. 
 
 About the beginning of the sixteenth century, the 
 Portuguese conquered the greater part of the island, hold- 
 ing the coast towns, and in turn were driven out by the 
 Dutch and then again by the English just after the close 
 of our revolutionary war, since which time the British 
 flag has been at the masthead of this far-off Isle of 
 Spices. 
 
 All kinds of religions prevail here — temples of Buddha, 
 Mohammedan mosques, Portuguese, Dutch, English, 
 Baptist and Wesleyan churches — and as we were here 
 on Sunday we saw them all going to church in their 
 various and picturesque costumes — some of the natives 
 with jewelry and the balance largely covered by their 
 complexions. The production of the island are Ceylon 
 tea, cocoanuts, bread fruit, betel-pepper, cinnamon — 
 which we broke up and tasted — the jak fruit, growing 
 in large balls suspended from the limbs of trees and only 
 eaten by the natives — pineapples, and now a great quan- 
 tity of rubber — which is being planted in large acreage to
 
 52 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 supply the great market since the automobile has created 
 so large a demand. 
 
 Children go almost if not altogether naked, men wear 
 only the loin cloths and many women are bare to the 
 waist, the weather being so oppressively hot near the 
 coast that clothing can only be endured by Europeans 
 and the higher classes of the natives, and then almost 
 altogether in white with sun hats and shades. Natives 
 of the coolie class always address you as master — but 
 if they break you a shrub, show you a building, hand 
 you a flower, or do you the least service, it is to entice 
 you to give them a gratuity in return. The little black 
 boys run after your carriage and appeal to you in be- 
 half of a sick father or mother, or sometimes, if you are 
 old like us, say grandfather or grandmother is sick and 
 helpless and for them they are begging, or they will 
 throw you a kiss from their brown lips for a like con- 
 sideration. Beggars, beggars everywhere, and yet in a 
 land literally flowing with milk and honey. 
 
 This has been claimed as the literal garden of Eden, 
 and they point out a high mountain peak some seven 
 thousand feet above sea level, called Adam's peak, on the 
 top of which, indented in the rocks, are prints, claimed 
 by the Mohammedans as the footprints of the father of 
 the human race. 
 
 We did not put credence enough in the fable to go 
 up and see these holy marks of ages agone. 
 
 Over in Arabia, from which this letter is mailed, is 
 another garden of Eden, the city of Aden — leaving off 
 the A, substituting E, making Eden, and as it is often 
 two years without rain, the sun is certainly a flaming 
 sword to keep out the human race from the tilling of 
 the garden.
 
 CEYLON 53 
 
 We drove out to Mount Lavinia for breakfast and 
 passed the former camp of the Boer prisoners of war 
 who were brought here from South Africa and held until 
 the close of the war and afterward until swearing al- 
 legiance to the Union Jack. This was the land of their 
 forefathers, for the Dutch-Hollanders, not Germans, 
 possessed the island for more than a century and built 
 the dams, reservoirs and irrigation canals still existing 
 on the island, and which make the intensive farming here 
 so productive and valuable. The roadways are fine and 
 well macadamized. The streets are supplied with 
 hydrants of the best of water, which the natives use 
 freely, as we often saw them taking their morning bath 
 in front of a hydrant of running water. 
 
 The cinnamon gardens at Colombo are being cut up 
 into villa lots and covered with bungalows, and will soon 
 be a thing of the past. Commercialism often desecrates 
 the beauty spots of earth, and the over-dropping water- 
 fall is soon drained to turn the wheel that revolves the 
 dynamo that sends off its electric power for the factory, 
 railway or electric light. Soon utilitarianism will over- 
 come the aesthetic in this rushing age of ours. 
 
 In crossing the bridge toward the city from the Boer 
 camp — where we pay sixty cents toll for the privilege — 
 we pass Slave island, a name given by the Dutch, who 
 used it as a prison tor the state slaves who were com- 
 pelled to serve them, and near where their descendants, 
 the Boers, were imprisoned — a sort of retributive justice 
 — the children paying for the sin of the fathers. 
 
 These random notes picked up by the wayside will 
 soon end, for when we reach the shores of Europe, 
 where so many travel, they will cease to be of interest. 
 
 Near our hotel at the landing stands a marble statue 
 of Queen Victoria — a beautiful work of art — to com- 
 
 4
 
 54 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 memorate her diamond jubilee, and only a block away 
 are the beautiful palace Gordon gardens of the gover- 
 nor's residence. The buildings in the vicinity are mod- 
 ern structures of European types — except the pillared 
 porticos for shade and the open windows for air. The 
 transportation is on carts drawn by Indian humped bulls, 
 with curious tops made of wicker-work — something in 
 the shape of the old moving wagon, projecting far over 
 top and rear. Tea chests are carried on poles on the 
 backs of dusky Tamil or Sinhalese coolies, and they go 
 rushing by crying like mad for the passer-by to get out 
 of the way. 
 
 The fishing or porterage boats of the Sinhalese are 
 the queerest ever seen. They are very long and slender 
 and supported by an outrigger about six feet away at- 
 tached by two poles or arms, and with sails attached 
 they fairly fly before the wind, and often go out twenty 
 miles from shore in these apparently frail and slender 
 structures — but they are said to be wonderfully strong 
 and safe against storm and wind. 
 
 In passing along the streets a very curious and novel 
 scene is presented by the barber shop. The barber sits 
 down on his feet, crossed under him, while his patient, 
 customer or subject of torture sits in front facing the 
 barber, and then the barber, without lather or soap, 
 gives the subject a dry shave by a sort of rasping off — 
 his hirsute adornments falling around him. It looks 
 like a torture chamber or shed, as it is always out in 
 the open. The polished and curious comb on the top 
 of the head is the adornment of some of the aristocratic 
 natives here. 
 
 In crossing over from Colombo to Aden, a journey of 
 more than two thousand four hundred miles by sea — ■
 
 CEYLON 55 
 
 crossing the Indian Ocean and Arabian Sea — we for- 
 tunately missed the expected monsoon and had a quiet 
 sea, but the water in front of Aden is so shallow that 
 we had to anchor nearly two miles from the landing. 
 
 The city of Aden is the commercial port of Arabia — 
 a great place for the sale of ostrich feathers — Arabian 
 horses of great fame — where caravans of camels come 
 in from the desert, laden with the products of the interior. 
 The British who control this port keep a large force of 
 soldiers here and have quite a time preserving order 
 among the thieving natives of the desert. 
 
 We have crossed the Indian Ocean, the lower side of 
 the Arabian Sea, and will soon enter the Red Sea, where 
 Moses and the Israelites crossed dry shod and where 
 Pharaoh and his horsemen and chariots were over- 
 whelmed by the returning floods. Near the Red Sea — 
 in Arabia — only seventy miles away, is the city of Mecca, 
 where every pious Mohammedan is expected to make a 
 pilgrimage — but as we have seen nothing yet to con- 
 vince us that any civilization of these strange gods pro- 
 duces the equal in honor, justice, honesty and right living, 
 to compare with that of Christianity, we shall not stop 
 on our way to make a journey to Mecca. 
 
 As we travel around this world of ours, one prominent 
 fact faces us everywhere, and that is the dominion of 
 Great Britain, on which the sun never sets — and it is 
 only because of the benignant rule of this mighty empire 
 that we find social order and safety in travel in these 
 out-of-the-way places of the earth. Wherever the British 
 flag goes, a higher civilization springs forth — common 
 honesty is taught — the cross of Christ is honored, and 
 while other religions are tolerated and not abolished by 
 physical force, the religion of Jesus is preached and will 
 eventually overcome.
 
 ARABIA. 
 
 Our Correspondent Stops at Aden, One oe the Hot- 
 test of the Inhabited Places on Earth — Then 
 Journeys Through the Red Sea, Passing Over 
 the Peace Where The Israelites Under Moses 
 Passed Through Dry Shod and the Egyptians 
 Following Were Overwhelmed by the Return- 
 ing Waters. 
 
 Port Said, Egypt, May 14th, 1909. 
 
 AT Aden, Arabia, our vessel anchored more than a 
 mile at sea. In order to go on shore, some half 
 dozen of us hired a canoe — with some six black 
 naked Somalese from Somaliland, Northeast Africa, to 
 do the rowing — and went on shore to see the village of 
 Aden. At the landing we took a carriage and visited the 
 Arabian market place and passed through narrow streets, 
 with low, flat-roofed houses made of sun-dried brick 
 and filled to overflowing with women and children. All 
 the carting here is done with camels. You see them 
 drawing barrels of water, carts of sand and all kinds of 
 merchandise. You also see them ridden by Arabs com- 
 ing in from the desert. The costume of the Arab, with 
 his turban and bright colored sashes and coverings, is 
 quite different from anything that we have thus far seen. 
 I saw them — all Mohammedans — at prayer, with the face 
 turned toward Mecca — and sitting in posture— the head 
 striking the ground in front — and when the hour of 
 prayer comes all else must give way to this form of 
 devotion. They may be very pious when at prayer, but
 
 ARABIA 57 
 
 as soon as the prayer is ended they can cheat you in a 
 bargain or cut your throat for being a heathen Christian 
 instead of a follower of Mahomet — for "Allah alone is 
 God and Mahomet is his prophet." 
 
 When we returned to our steamer the sea was quite 
 rough and our frail canoe would go up and down with 
 the swell of the waves and would sometimes cover us 
 with water. The day was exceedingly hot and I almost 
 succumbed under the heat, but was glad that I went on 
 shore to see this new feature of desert life. 
 
 It had not rained here for more than a year, and the 
 heat is so intense and stifling that the soldiers stationed 
 in large British barracks here become so homesick that 
 the government changes them every six months to pre- 
 vent suicide. It is certainly the extreme of desolation 
 here amid the parched sands of Arabia. 
 
 Our journey next led through the Red Sea, with Africa 
 on the left and Asia on the right — British Somaliland on 
 one side and Arabia on the other. We passed not far 
 from Mecca, the birthplace of Mahomet and toward 
 which devout Moslems incline the body in prayer. We 
 also pass over the place described in the fourteenth chap- 
 ter of Exodus — where the Israelites under Moses passed 
 through dry shod and the Egyptians following them 
 were overwhelmed by the returning waters. At Suez 
 we are near Moses spring, where the bitter waters of 
 Marah were turned sweet, and where we enter the 
 famous Suez canal. 
 
 This was an immense undertaking and cost one hun- 
 dred millions of dollars to build. The canal is one hun- 
 dred miles long — between Suez on the south and 
 I'ort Said on the north. The tolls are immense. The
 
 58 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 purser of our steamer told me that he would have to pay 
 ten thousand dollars toll to take our vessel through the 
 canal. Many places we can travel at the rate of five 
 miles only per hour on account of washing the banks of 
 the canal. The remains of an old canal existed here be- 
 fore the Christian era and is described by Herodotus. 
 Mt. Sinai is not far from here, and the land of Goshen 
 lines the west bank of the canal, and very large founda- 
 tions of what were supposed to be Joseph's granary — 
 storing in years of plenty for the years of famine to 
 come — are near at hand. Surely this is the land of Bible 
 history and is well worth seeing — even if you have to 
 endure much hardship to see it. 
 
 We leave here on the train for Cairo, Egypt — being 
 as far south as New Orleans — distance by rail one hun- 
 dred and forty-five miles. The train passes through the 
 land of Goshen, giving us a view of the country once 
 tilled by the Israelites as bondmen under Egyptian task- 
 masters — the passage of the Red Sea being farther south. 
 The land, like that of Southern California, is barren and 
 desolate, without water — but under an irrigating system 
 is very fruitful — and the waters of the Nile have made 
 this land a vast granary for many, many centuries. The 
 Suez canal has added greatly to the wealth of the country 
 here, and while more than twice as long as the Panama 
 canal, its cost of building was much less on account of 
 the comparatively level country through which it passed 
 and the number of lakes on the line of the canal. 
 
 After a few days spent at Cairo and vicinity we shall 
 cross over to Joppa and make a journey through 
 Palestine and visit some of the places made interesting 
 in Bible study.
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE. 
 
 Our Correspondent Marks a Trip Through the 
 Land oe Goshen, in Egypt — Visits the City of 
 Cairo, the Ruins of Memphis, and the Great 
 Pyramids — Then Takes a Steamer for Joppa, 
 the Seaport of Jerusalem, and Visits the Holy 
 Land — Takes a Bath in the Dead Sea, and 
 Jumps Into the River Jordan. 
 
 Alexandria, May 26th, 1909. 
 
 MY last letter from Port Said, at the north entrance 
 of the Suez canal, left us starting on the Egyp- 
 tian railway — through the land of Goshen to the 
 city of Cairo — one hundred and forty-five miles distant. 
 In crossing this plain, of which the greater part is very 
 fertile land and intensively cultivated, we observed many 
 unfamiliar methods of farming. The water from the ir- 
 rigating canals was pumped up on the land from wells 
 and sluices by two wheels, one with pivots fitted into 
 sockets in another wheel with sort of buckets, and the 
 general motive power was camels — with a lever — going 
 around in a circle and thus bringing the water up to 
 the level of the land. We passed great caravans of 
 camels on the highways, loaded with people, goods and 
 all manner of merchandise. While the Egyptians have 
 horses and mules and some buffalo cows, the great work 
 is done by the patient, burden-bearing camel. The 
 plows used had wooden shares, beams and handles, just 
 like the crooked, wooden thing used nearly two thou- 
 sand years ago in the time of Christ. I did not see one 
 gasoline engine pumping water — which would have done
 
 60 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 more work than twenty camels. Not one modern plow 
 — and the barley harvest being- on, was being cut with 
 sickles. The lots are small ; one man and his family — 
 wife and children — working together in the field, cultivate 
 about one or two acres of land. The crops raised are 
 barley, some Indian corn, more Egyptian corn, and 
 garden products of all kinds. While the valley of the 
 Nile has been cultivated for many thousand years, it is 
 still very fertile and productive. The Nile annually over- 
 flows its banks and makes a sedimentary deposit that 
 enriches the land. 
 
 The city of Cairo has about six hundred thousand 
 people and is a very old and interesting city. It is held 
 in a suzerainty by Great Britain, with a nominal control 
 by the Khedive. We went on top of the citadel — on 
 the top of a Mohammedan mosque— and found "Tommy 
 Atkins", the British soldier, in full control. They had 
 cannon mounted, commanding the entire city, and in 
 case of an uprising the entire city could be swept by the 
 guns from this high position. The mosque below was 
 probably the finest in Cairo. The men occupy the ground 
 floor and the women occupy galleries, so as not to be 
 seen by men. The women, except the lower classes, go 
 veiled, with peep-holes for the eyes, and wear a most 
 intolerable costume for warm weather. I should think 
 that the women would rebel against this relic of bar- 
 barism and assert their womanhood. It is almost as de- 
 grading and brutal as the foot-binding of the heathen 
 women of China. 
 
 The weather here was intolerably hot and the flies the 
 most pestiferous of any that I ever encountered. Of 
 course we took a carriage and drove out to the Pyramids, 
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 EGYPT AND PALESTINE 63 
 
 and then Mrs. Protherton and myself mounted camels 
 and rode around to the Sphynx and up to the Pyramids. 
 It was our first camel ride, and with Arabs on every 
 side clamoring' for "backsheesh," is was a novel experi- 
 ence. The next day we took a steam yacht and went up 
 the Nile some fifteen miles and saw many places of in- 
 terest, passing on the way the place where Moses was 
 said to have been taken from the bullrushes by Pharaoh's 
 daughter. 
 
 We took small mules from our landing place on the 
 Nile and rode eight miles inland, visiting the ruins of 
 the old city of Memphis, the pyramids of Sakhara, the 
 tombs of the sacred bulls, and some inland Egyptian 
 villages. The sixteen-mile ride there and back over the 
 hot sands of the arid plains was a very hard one, the 
 little donkeys going on the trot or gallop most of the 
 time, but the compensation was well worth the test of 
 endurance — we saw the actual life in an out-of-the-way 
 place, and he who travels to see the world must expect to 
 endure much on the journey. 
 
 We went from Cairo by rail to Port Said and there 
 took an Austrian Lloyd steamer for Joppa, the seaport 
 of Jerusalem on the Mediterranean sea. Our vessel 
 anchored out at sea and we were landed in small boats. 
 The coast is very rocky and often ships cannot make the 
 port here on account of storms. In Joppa — the old town 
 where Jonah sailed away from duty — where the timbers 
 of Solomon's temple were brought from the cedars of 
 Lebanon — we were shown the home place of Tabitha or 
 Dorcas, whom Peter raised from the dead, and where a 
 Christian church now stands, also the old fiat-roofed 
 house of Simon the Tanner, on the seaside — where Peter 
 resided when he saw the vision of the sheet with all
 
 64 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 manner of four-footed beasts and was commanded to 
 kill, slay and eat — and in response went to meet the 
 Centurian, a gentile and not of the chosen sect. 
 
 We went up to Jerusalem, twenty-five hundred feet 
 above the sea — passing through the plains of Sharon, 
 dotted with orange, lemon, and olive groves and fields 
 of flowing grain — up by the pool — still shown — where 
 Philip baptized the eunuch because there was water there 
 ■ — Lydda, where Peter stopped on the way to Joppa — 
 through the land of Samson — the home of Joseph of 
 Arimathea, and many other interesting places. In Jeru- 
 salem we saw the usual sites of the Holy Sepulchre — 
 one inside of the old walls and the Gordon outside — the 
 latter more nearly corresponding to the bible location — 
 outside the gate. Everything here is religion, but all 
 diverse — the Mohammedan, the Greek orthodox, the 
 Roman Catholic and others. They fight and quarrel over 
 the holy places and forget that Jesus came proclaiming 
 "Peace on earth and good will to men." When we 
 visited the Mohammedan mosque on the site of Solomon's 
 temple — the mosque of Omar — the American Consul, Mr. 
 Wallace, sent a consular guard and the Turkish com- 
 mander also sent a Turkish soldier to accompany us. 
 
 The condition here is very unsettled under the new 
 regime of the Young Turks, and many incline to favor 
 the old sultan Abdul Hamid. The consul told me that 
 some eight men had been killed near his office only a 
 few days before our coming. We visited Bethlehem, 
 the Mount of Olives, the Garden of Gethsemane, Bethany, 
 the tomb of Lazarus and the home of Martha and Mary 
 and many other places of historical interest, but I will 
 not attempt to describe them, for it has already been done 
 many times.
 
 l'l.ACK Ol'" I'aI'TISM, JoRDAX.
 
 EGYPT AND PALESTINE 67 
 
 Leaving our wives in Jerusalem the four men of our 
 party went down to Jericho, the Dead Sea and Jordan. 
 Two days before, a judge going down had fallen among 
 robbers and was stripped of all valuables. The day be- 
 fore the Turkish commander at Jerusalem sent down a 
 company of thirty or forty soldiers and we passed their 
 encampment on the way. When I say "down to Jericho" 
 — remember that Jerusalem is on the hills twenty-five 
 hundred feet above the sea, Jericho is eight hundred 
 feet below sea level, and the Dead Sea — the lowest body 
 of water on earth — still lower by five hundred feet. On 
 the way down nearly every Arab that we met had his 
 rifle over his shoulder, and we met going and returning 
 scores of them on the way. This part of the Turkish 
 dominions needs British or some other rule to restore 
 order and to make life and property safe. 
 
 I went in swimming in the Dead Sea and the water 
 was so full of salt that without any effort I floated on 
 the top of the water. I then drove over to the Jordan, 
 where the place of the baptism of Jesus was pointed out, 
 and crossed the river in a skiff. In the middle of the 
 river I jumped into the waters of the Jordan over my 
 head and then did not touch the bottom. While the 
 water was not very clear, it was deep and clean — trees 
 on either side — and was a beautiful place for a baptismal 
 service. The Mount of Temptation is just above old 
 Jericho — now a mass of ruins — and the place pointed out 
 as the site of the baptism is about five miles below in 
 almost a straight line, so that it may be the true site — 
 but on most of these long past scenes or places pointed 
 out we take them as the old Romans did "Cum grano 
 salis." The old ruins of Jericho are being uncovered 
 and the old city is now covered with the dirt and ac- 
 cumulation of bygone ages. We bought a large mess of 
 fish from fishermen at the Jordan and had a fine supper
 
 68 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 at our hotel in Jericho, where we passed the night. We 
 left our valuables at Jerusalem, so we slept well, with 
 both windows open, and started early the next morning 
 on our return to Jerusalem, passing on our way up the 
 brook Kedron, where Elijah was fed by the ravens; the 
 Good Samaritan Inn, on the site of the one where the man 
 went down to Jericho and fell among thieves and was 
 cared for by the Good Samaritan, when the priest and 
 Levite passed by on the other side. When coming over 
 the hills into Jerusalem with the city spread before us, 
 we could realize how Christ wept over the city whose 
 destruction he knew would so soon follow. Mrs. B. 
 and I rode around the entire walls of the city on small 
 burros and visited the wailing place of the Jews. 
 
 Much money is being sent to Jerusalem and many 
 Jews are returning to the Holy City, and the time is not 
 far distant when Jews will again control Jerusalem and 
 the prophecy of Christ be fulfilled. 
 
 There are very many things very disappointing here, 
 but above it all you realize that here at Bethlehem was 
 the birthplace of Christ — over these hills Jesus walked, 
 and taught, and here on Calvary He gave His life for 
 His people — here He was buried and rose from the dead, 
 and from Mount Olivet ascended into heaven. If Christ 
 did not so die and rise again, then indeed is our faith in 
 vain. 
 
 After a week spent in Jerusalem and Palestine we re- 
 turned to Joppa and took a steamer for Alexandria, 
 Egypt. At Alexandria we visited the tomb or pillar of 
 Pompey — drove through its streets and parks and visited 
 the museum containing many Egyptian curios and relics 
 of ages before the birth of Christ. This city, as you 
 will remember, was founded by Alexander the Great, and 
 it was here that the greatest library of ancient times was 
 collected and afterwards burned.
 
 ITALY. 
 
 Our Correspondent Sails From Alexandria for 
 Naples, Italy, Passing Through the Narrow- 
 Straits of Messina — Visits the Metropolis of 
 Italy and Makes a Side Trip to the Ruins of 
 Pompeii and the "Blue Grotto'' on the Island 
 of Capri — Sights and Scenes in the Cities of 
 Rome, Florence and Venice. 
 
 Venice, Italy, June 14th, 1909. 
 
 MY last letter from Alexandria, Egypt, gave your 
 readers some of my observations up to that 
 time, and as I am about through with Italy and 
 will leave for Trieste in Austria, on Tuesday, June 15th, 
 I will give you a few hurried notes of our journey since 
 leaving Alexandria. 
 
 From Alexandria to Naples is something more than 
 eleven hundred miles across the Mediterranean Sea. On 
 the way over we passed near the island of Crete, which has 
 been a bone of contention between Greece and Turkey. 
 We passed through the narrow straits of Messina — with 
 the city of Messina on the left on the island of Sicily 
 and Reggio nearly opposite on the Italian peninsula — 
 forming the boot of Italy. These cities suffered the 
 terrific earthquake that destroyed full one hundred thou- 
 sand lives and millions of dollars' worth of property 
 some six months ago. The ruined cities stand in deso- 
 lation and tell us how puny is man and his works against 
 the terrific forces of nature. YYe also passed between
 
 jo CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 Scylla and Charybdis, of ancient story — where the sail- 
 ors were tied to the masts with wax in their ears to 
 avoid the song of the siren that lured them into danger. 
 
 As we passed into the bay of Naples we saw one of 
 the most beautiful sights of our entire journey. The 
 island of Capri on our left, the town of Sorrento on 
 our right, Vesuvius, with occasional smoke issuing from 
 the crater, and the great city of Naples, the metropolis 
 of Italy, reaching from the shores of the bay up the 
 high hillsides back of the city, and the slopes covered 
 with green trees, climbing vines and clambering roses, 
 gorgeous in their very colorings, beautiful palaces, many 
 elegant homes, made a picture worthy of a painter — and 
 the saying of the poet, "See Naples and die," is not far 
 wrong; only I would go the poet one better and say, 
 "See Southern California and live." 
 
 The harbor is protected by a fine breakwater, but 
 hardly so good a one as the breakwater built at Colombo 
 on the island of Ceylon. We went out to the ruins of 
 the city of Pompeii, destroyed by an eruption from 
 Vesuvius in the year seventy-nine of the Christian era. 
 The palaces, temples and buildings have been uncovered, 
 the streets are all cleaned up and you can see just how 
 this city of thirty thousand people looked before its 
 destruction. It was a rich, luxurious and licentious city. 
 The decorations and paintings on the walls of the pala- 
 tial homes would not be tolerated in this generation be- 
 cause of their indecent character. Sensual lust, instead 
 of virtue, honor and purity of home life prevailed — but 
 this was only a few years after the crucifixion of Christ 
 and before his gospel had been promulgated to any 
 extent beyond the limits of Judea and Palestine. Sen- 
 sual Rome, with the god Bacchus, reigned. Monuments
 
 ITALY 71 
 
 of art indicate culture. The household utensils found 
 in the excavations are surprising, as many of them are 
 in use todav, and fully one-third of the city is still 
 uncovered — but the work of excavation is still going on 
 and many new and interesting things will be uncovered. 
 Herculaneum, but a few miles away, was buried so deep 
 that another city is now built on the site of the old^ 
 which lies many feet below. But a few years ago the 
 old Vesuvius sent down thousands of tons of lava and 
 laid waste a large area of land near these buried cities, 
 but people go on just the same and build and buy and 
 sell and marry and are given in marriage, and will con- 
 tinue to do so; but they remember and exclaim that life 
 is only a journey and ends with a funeral march to the 
 grave, and be ye always ready, for in an hour when no 
 man can tell, whether on land or sea, the summons may 
 come and we must all answer. 
 
 We spent a day over at the island of Capri in the bay 
 of Naples and visited the ''Blue Grotto", a very rare 
 and beautiful sight, and then took a carriage drive high 
 up the mountain side on a well-made mountain road- 
 way, giving from the high elevation a beautiful and 
 extensive view. We also saw on the island the beautiful 
 grounds of the late Baron Krupp (of gun fame) where 
 he intended building a castle, but which was forbidden 
 by the German Emperor, and which destruction of his 
 castle in the air caused his suicide and death, if our 
 informant was correct — but you cannot always indorse 
 all that your guides tell you. 
 
 We spent several days in the city of Rome, wander- 
 ing among the ruins of the old Coliseum, Hadrian's villa, 
 the ruined palace of Xero, and the old Roman Aqueduct.
 
 72 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 We drove out the old Appian Way, where Caesar's 
 imperial legions marched, and where many a captive 
 was led, chained to the chariot wheels of his captors, to 
 grace a Roman holiday. One of the gruesome things 
 was a journey some thirty feet underground into the 
 catacombs, where the bones of thousands of people were 
 buried, and the bodies still shown. Here are streets for 
 eleven miles underground and lined with dead men's 
 bones. Amid these gruesome surroundings the early 
 Christians concealed themselves to elude the search of 
 the Roman soldiers who were sent to bring them to the 
 monster, Nero, that he might use their bodies for torches 
 to illuminate the imperial gardens. The Coliseum was 
 only a slaughter-house for human gladiators who fought 
 beasts or still more beastly men. 
 
 The Church of St. Peter's is probably the finest in the 
 world. The Sistine Chapel, where the Cardinals meet 
 in conclave when a new Pope is elected, has many beau- 
 tiful paintings by Raphael and much statuary and work 
 by Michael Angelo. The Church of St. Paul, where it 
 is claimed that the body of the Apostle is actually buried, 
 is a very handsome and costly structure. Rome is grow- 
 ing rapidly, and many of the old ruins of historical 
 interest are disappearing before the demand for new 
 structures, and to see these things — they must be seen 
 now. 
 
 Our next journey was about two hundred miles from 
 Rome to Florence. 
 
 Florence is an art center and has some of the finest 
 galleries of paintings in the world. It is built on both 
 sides of the Arno — as Rome is now on both sides of the 
 Tiber— and is very beautiful. The view over the city 
 from the Piazza Michael Angelo is of surpassing beauty,
 
 ITALY 73 
 
 and the city park for three miles along the Arno is a 
 drive that affords a view of forest, clean, well-made 
 drives and flora such as one seldom sees. There are 
 large trees of fine types and shady nooks, recesses and 
 views on the river Arno that are very fine. 
 
 On the Plaza Vecchio, near the Neptune fountain, is 
 a bronze tablet of Girolamo Savonarola, who was burned 
 alive there in 1498, and his ashes scattered on the river 
 Arno. He was a martyr to religious liberty, and while 
 born at Perrara, on the river Po, he was a preacher at 
 St. Mark's church here and did his life's work in Flor- 
 ence, and was in fact greater than Dante or Cosmo, 
 whose statue adorns the Plaza and who are so highly 
 honored here. The Florentines now honor the man they 
 once burned, and it is the old story — that "Seven cities 
 lay claim to Homer dead, through which the living 
 Homer begged his bread." 
 
 The Ufizzi and Petti galleries contain many rare, val- 
 uable and beautiful paintings of ancient and modern 
 artists, such as Raffael, Corregio Del Sarto, Titian, 
 Rubens, Van Dyke and others, and statuary carved by 
 the world's masters. 
 
 The ride from Florence over the Apennines was very 
 picturesque, but marred somewhat by the many and 
 long tunnels. Passing down on the other side we came 
 to Bologna and went through Ferrara and Padua. The 
 country is highly cultivated, the land fertile and the 
 fruit in the greatest abundance. I never saw cherry 
 trees anywhere so numerous and so heavily loaded with 
 the ripe fruit. Hemp is grown extensively as well as 
 wheat, the latter being used for the manufacture of 
 macaroni. 
 
 5
 
 74 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 Macaroni is largely used by the poorer classes, and 
 when the beggars solicit alms, or servants solicit tips, 
 they ask for money for "macaroni." I think I have 
 paid for a mile or two of macaroni since I came into 
 Italy. 
 
 We came into Venice after a railway journey of 
 something more than five hundred and thirty-four miles 
 since leaving Naples, so that we can say that we have 
 seen much of Italy. We had visited Milan and Genoa 
 on our trip to Italy some six years before, and hence 
 have left them out of our present itinerary. A new 
 experience met us on our arrival at the railway station 
 here. Not a bus, carriage, cart, dray, wagon or vehicle 
 drawn by any sort of man or beast. From the- station 
 we took a gondola on the Grand Canal and went to our 
 hotel — the "Hotel Royal Danieli", some two miles away 
 — passing under the "Rialto" and the "Bridge of Sighs" 
 out into a bay of the Adriatic sea and back again into 
 a canal leading up to the steps of our hotel — which was 
 a former palace of the Royal house and contained many 
 luxurious apartments. The floor of our room is mosaic 
 work and was laid in 1769 — seven years before the Dec- 
 laration of Independence. The Doges Palace near by is 
 still very beautiful and artistic, and it was from here that 
 the Council of Three condemned the political prisoners to 
 death and sent them across the "Bridge of Sighs" to con- 
 finement in dungeons until the time of beheading, and 
 the place is still shown where the blood drained down 
 into the canal and the cadaver was pushed through a 
 door into a boat in the canal to be taken off like garbage 
 into a place of sepulture like so many dead dogs. Such 
 was life in the centuries passed, when a Council of
 
 ITALY 75 
 
 Three, on an anonymous charge unsupported by evi- 
 dence or by the presence of witnesses, condemned the 
 innocent to death. Surely under our law the escape of 
 a few guilty men is far better than this slaughter of the 
 innocent. 
 
 This city is a city of canals, and all the transportation 
 is done by boats, and I have not seen a horse, mule or 
 wheeled vehicle of any kind since coming here several 
 days ago. We took a gondola and spent two hours the 
 other afternoon, passing where Robert Browning and 
 Richard Wagner died while here, and many palatial 
 homes, all with steps leading down to gondola landings. 
 Many small steamers and gasoline launches ply on the 
 bay and the Grand Canal, but only gondolas and canoes 
 can go through the smaller canals. This is indeed a city 
 built on the sea. The Campanile, which fell, is being re- 
 built and is up to the tower. St. Mark's Church here is 
 one of the many fine churches of Italy, and like others 
 has many valuable ceiling and mural paintings by some of 
 the great masters. The Doges Palace has many very fine 
 pictures on the walls. The many fine stores around the 
 St. Mark's Square — under a covered arcade — are very 
 attractive and cause many Americans to part with their 
 dollars. 
 
 Trieste, Austria, is just across the Adriatic Sea — sixty 
 miles over — and on Tuesday we go over by steamer, to 
 take a steamer from there — the Palacky — for our jour- 
 ney down the Adriatic to Brindisi — the island of Corfu — 
 then to Patras, Greece, and then by rail through Greece 
 to Corinth and Athens, and from there to Constantinople, 
 where we may be able to see something of the new 
 regime.
 
 GREECE. 
 
 From Venice, Italy, to Trieste, Austria, by Steamer. 
 Thence Down the Adriatic Sea Near Austrian 
 Shore to Pola, and Then Along Coast of Bos- 
 nia and Montenegro — The Interesting Island 
 oe Coreu, Which in Homeric Times Was Held 
 as the Extreme Western Country of the 
 Earth — The Cities of Corinth and Athens. 
 
 Athens, Greece, June 19, 1909. 
 
 ON leaving Venice our steamer crossed the Adriatic 
 Sea, a distance of sixty miles, to Trieste, Austria. 
 In passing out of the harbor of Venice we had a 
 fine view of the Italian parade grounds, where we saw 
 inarching and in drill probably three thousand soldiers, 
 going through the manual of arms, drilling in forma- 
 tions of single, double and squadrons, deploying as skir- 
 mishers, falling to the ground and other movements of 
 well-trained soldiers. The drill ground was large, level 
 and covered with lawn. Near by was one of the large 
 forts protecting the entrance to the harbor and a battle- 
 ship with crew all schooling themselves for war. These 
 continental countries are all armed and ready for war, 
 and it is the leading industry over here to teach men the 
 art of killing one another in the most dexterous manner 
 and with the most improved weapons of war on land 
 and sea. 
 
 Trieste, a city of one hundred and fifty thousand, is 
 the great seaport of the Austrian Empire and is filled 
 with shipping from almost every land except America.
 
 GREECE 77 
 
 It is seldom that we see that flag that we love so well 
 flying from the masts of vessels in foreign ports. The 
 harbor is protected from the sea by a breakwater, and 
 having deep water within allows steamers to come up to 
 the piers and discharge passengers and freight without 
 the expense and inconvenience of lighters — and the city 
 has a very large export and import business. The water 
 front and business portion of the city is on comparatively 
 level land and has fine business blocks of cream white 
 brick, four and five stories high, of the best construction. 
 One thing unusual I noticed in passing over to my 
 steamer — the Palacky — along the railway was the use of 
 oxen in hauling freight cars on the steam railway in the 
 business center of the city. The track was level and the 
 men would start the car, and a single ox with a collar — 
 not yoke — would pull the car to its destination. There 
 was no smoke, no blowing of whistles, no people run 
 over and yet a large business in a large city was done 
 in this way. Back of the city front the hills rise rapidly 
 and the residential portion ascends the hillsides, and the 
 railway coming in goes through tunnels or crosses 
 bridges over the gulleys or canons. 
 
 Just north of the city in full view, on the sea side, is 
 Miramar, a large, handsome castle with fine grounds and 
 large tree-like park in the rear, which was erected for 
 the home of Maximilian Archduke, who left it in the 
 latter part of our own Civil War, in defiance of the Mon- 
 roe Doctrine, to establish an empire in Mexico with the 
 aid of Napoleon the Third and French troops, and was 
 captured and shot to death by the Mexicans as his 
 reward. He had here all that heart could desire, and 
 paltry ambition caused him to leave it all and die the
 
 7& CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 death of a usurper in a strange land, and I can mentally 
 see the picture when the Emperor and Empress came 
 down here to bid the Duke and Duchess good-bye on 
 that last farewell. We passed down the Adriatic near 
 the Austrian shore as far as Pola and then along the 
 coast of Bosnia and Montenegro. We passed at night 
 on the Italian side the old town of Bincini, on the small 
 river Rubicon, which was once the northern boundary of 
 the Roman Empire, hence "to cross the Rubicon" was to 
 enter a foreign land. Our next stopping place for sev- 
 eral hours was the old and ancient Brindisi, Italy. Here 
 Virgil, the poet, died on his return from Greece, nine- 
 teen years before Christ, and it is probably the city to 
 which St. Paul came on his journey from Athens and 
 Corinth to Rome. It was the end of the old Appian 
 Way to Rome, and over which I drove for several miles 
 from Rome, passing the place where Peter was said to 
 have stopped on his way to Rome, the tomb of Cecilia, 
 the Catacombs, the Circus Maximus and into the Cam- 
 pagna and up a hill into a barley field, giving us a fine 
 view of the Alban hills and down the straight Appian 
 Way as it led out to the sea at Brindisi, from which 
 Roman legions would sail for all Eastern conquests. The 
 port was a rallying place for crusaders and was after- 
 ward destroyed by the Saracens. 
 
 From here our journey ran across the sea southeast to 
 the island of Corfu and the town of Corfu on the east 
 side of the island. 
 
 We came over from Brindisi and anchored outside of 
 the landing place and went over in row boats to the 
 city of Corfu, the ancient Corcyra, on the Island of 
 Corfu, one of the group of seven forming the Ionian
 
 GREECE 79 
 
 Islands, and entered from the Adriatic into the Ionian 
 Sea. Our steamer anchored here all day on June 17th, 
 so we took a row boat and went on shore for the day. 
 We drove out into the country eight miles by carriage 
 on a splendid roadway out to the palace erected by the 
 Empress Elizabeth of Austria, who was assassinated a 
 few years ago at Geneva, and who spent more than one 
 million dollars on the house and grounds. The place 
 was recently sold to Emperor William of Germany for 
 one-fourth of the amount. It is a beautiful place and 
 has one of the finest views in Europe out on the Ionian 
 Sea and surrounding group of islands. We passed many 
 people on the road and saw how the men and women 
 rode on burros always with both legs on one side and 
 a pack to balance on the other, the women coming into 
 market with fruit, berries, cucumbers or other products 
 on the top of the head, and the arms swinging as they 
 walked, or in some cases engaged in knitting, always 
 erect. Speaking of cucumbers, we saw wagonloads of 
 them piled up along the road for sale and we saw men 
 buying and peeling them with a knife and eating with- 
 out salt. The country is semi-tropical, very rich and 
 highly cultivated. Large olive trees full of blossom, fig 
 trees well fruited, grapevines loaded with immense 
 bunches, loquat, lemon and orange trees and quantities 
 of pear, peach, plum, apricot, and most surprising fields 
 of Indian corn for roasting ears; some in ear, some in 
 tassel and on down to new planting. We wanted some, 
 but none were far enough advanced for the table. Of 
 vegetables all kinds were in abundance. Our guide said 
 this was the richest agricultural land on earth and the 
 finest climate. I asked him if he were a real estate 
 agent, and he replied "No, why do you ask?'' I told
 
 80 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 him that he talked just like some that I knew in far-off 
 Southern California. There is a great similarity in 
 climate and productions of the two countries. In 1836 
 this was a possession of Great Britain, but now belongs 
 to Greece, and the Governor was a man by the name of 
 Adams, who constructed the waterworks here and said 
 to have the best and purest water to be had anywhere ; 
 we sampled it and found it to be excellent. After his 
 eminent success in this enterprise arose the saying, "I 
 want some of Adam's Ale." The fortress here, in early- 
 days called the citadel, was considered impregnable, but 
 against modern cannon would be of little defensive value. 
 The Island of Corfu in Homeric times was held as 
 the extreme western country of the earth. The Island 
 of Ithaca just below is said to be the one described by 
 Homer in the Odyssey. We passed the Gulf of Arta, 
 into which the Arta river, the northern boundary of 
 Greece, empties, and in front of which the empire of 
 the world was lost by Antony at the battle of Actium. 
 We landed at Patras in Greece, a prosperous city of 
 some thirty thousand people, and through which the 
 commerce of the Peliponessus passes. We took a car- 
 riage drive through the city and a short way into the 
 country. The land in the vicinity is rich and covered 
 with vines and trees in full fruitage. The citadel is high 
 on the hill and very imposing, but out of date for de- 
 fensive purposes. Our rail journey from Patras to this 
 city was two hundred and forty miles, and we passed 
 through a very beautiful and fruitful valley, but narrow, 
 between the sea of Corinth on one side and mountains 
 on the other, and just across the sea the high peaks 
 of Mt. Parnassus. The present city of Corinth on the 
 railway is a short distance from the old city of Corinth
 
 GREECE 81 
 
 where the Apostle Paul lived and preached, and high 
 up on the mountain side we could see Aero-Corinth 
 from our car. The town of Corinth is almost altogether 
 built of sun-dried mud or adobe buildings with tile roofs, 
 and around each dwelling is a fence of the same material 
 about five feet high enclosing the yard, into which the 
 sheep or goats can be led and kept secure in the sheep- 
 fold. 
 
 Again I noticed a great similarity to Palestine. The 
 wheat was tramped out on a threshing floor in the open 
 air and the straw was tossed into the air so that the 
 wind could drive the chaff away. The only method of 
 irrigation was the Egyptian one of a mule turning a 
 wheel by going around in a circle and thus pumping 
 the water. 
 
 Just out of Corinth we passed over the canal which 
 connects the Gulf or Sea of Corinth with the sea on the 
 south and Piraeus, the port of Athens. The canal at 
 Corinth, while about five miles in length, was very deep, 
 and the banks of the canal walled with solid masonry. 
 I should judge in passing over that it was fully forty 
 feet deep from the top of the excavation to the water 
 and fifty feet in width at the top, sloping banks to a 
 width of only twenty feet at the canal, so that only small 
 vessels could go through and that without passing in the 
 canal. 
 
 St. Paul sent Timothy to the church at Corinth, and 
 from the waters here I can understand his advice to 
 Timothy not to drink any water, but to "take a little 
 wine for his stomach's sake and thine often infirmities," 
 for I have bought bottled Apollinaris and soda water, 
 and while I am something of a fanatic on the temper- 
 ance question, if I could not get bottled water of some
 
 82 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 kind I might be almost tempted to take a little wine 
 while here for my stomach ache, for grapes are very 
 plentiful and the making of wine here one of the great 
 industries. 
 
 East of Corinth the land is mostly barren and dry 
 and there is very little fertile land until you reach the 
 Frazian plain near Athens. The stony land is of little 
 value, now covered with oleander brush in full bloom, 
 and is very attractive. Grapes are abundant, thousands 
 of acres being planted, and olive groves quite numerous, 
 and the trees look bright and green and are free from 
 scale. 
 
 We left the train at Eleusis and walked up to the old 
 ruins of the Great Hall or Prophylia, vast fluted columns, 
 immense bases for columns and capitals of the finest 
 sculpture, and here was where the Eleusinian mysteries 
 were held. The seats were cut out of solid rock, and I 
 climbed up to the highest tier and there had a fine view 
 to the south of the Bay of Eleusis and through the open- 
 ing to the south of the Straits of Salamis, where the 
 great sea battle took place in which the Greeks destroyed 
 the Persian fleet. Returning through the village of 
 Eleusis (Lepsina) and took our train for Athens. 
 
 The city of Athens is very attractive and has now 
 about two hundred thousand and is growing rapidly. 
 The new buildings are of Grecian style of architecture. 
 Our hotel, the Bretagne, is just across from the palace 
 of the king, and, it being out of season, we are furnished 
 with choice apartments on the ground floor for four 
 dollars per day each. We took a carriage drive out the 
 beautiful avenue, well paved and lined with trees, down 
 to the sea at Phalerum, which is the great seaside resort 
 for Athens, and took our dinner on the beach and re-
 
 GREECE AND TURKEY 83 
 
 turned at nine p.m. by electric train. It was rather 
 unusual to travel in an electric car filled with people 
 and not one in the car, including - the conductor, able to 
 speak a word of English ; it made one feel lonesome 
 even in a crowd. 
 
 We are now in the cradle of civilization, the nation 
 that gave us art, letters, poetry and philosophy, and the 
 first to establish a republican form of government. We 
 drove by the Acropolis and many other monuments of 
 antiquity, but we are not writing either a history or a 
 guide book and shall not attempt to describe them, for 
 it has already been done by scores of others. 
 
 The advantage of travel is to see how other people 
 live and learn what we can of the present and past. 
 
 GREECE AND TURKEY. 
 
 Our Correspondent Is Impressed With the Great- 
 ness of the Ancient Greeks — He Views the 
 Stadium, Where There Are Forty-Eight Thou- 
 sand Numbered Seats, and Stands on Mars 
 Hill, Where the Apostle Paul Prea'ched and 
 Proclaimed to the Athenians the Unknown 
 God To Whom They Had Erected a Statue. 
 The City of Athens, and Scenes and Incidents 
 En Route to Constantinople. 
 
 Constantinople, June 21, 1909. 
 
 I MIGHT say that in Athens I was very much im- 
 pressed with the greatness of the ancient Greeks. 
 The Stadium is an immense arena, and the seating 
 capacity beyond anything imagined. There are forty- 
 eight thousand numbered seats, and by crowding, sev- 
 enty thousand people have viewed the modern games —
 
 84 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 running, wrestling, etc. It is a modern restoration with 
 some of the ancient parts in the new. It is out in the 
 open, the games being held in April, a dry month here. 
 The Acropolis gives a magnificent view of Athens, the 
 country and the sea. Mars Hill, where the Apostle Paul 
 preached and proclaimed to the Athenians the unknown 
 God to whom they had erected a statue, was a magnifi- 
 cent pulpit of solid rock, and as I stood in the supposed 
 spot I could look down to where the statue stood and 
 look up to the Acropolis where stood the Temple, the 
 Parthenon — the Temple of Jupiter — possessing on the 
 outside Doric and inside Ionic capitals on fluted columns 
 and considered the most beautiful temple in the world, 
 and inside the statues of Jupiter, Bacchus and other 
 Grecian Deities, and they being just up the hill from 
 where Paul stood, his sermon would be most effective. 
 Socrates' prison stood near by, where Wisdom was 
 sacrificed to prejudice and superstition, and just above 
 the Temple to Wingless Victory commemorating the 
 battles of Marathon, Salamis and Platea, and again on 
 the same place where Paul stood, Demosthenes long be- 
 fore thrilled the Athenians to march out against Philip 
 of Macedon. Our schoolboy days came back to us and 
 we felt well repaid for coming here. 
 
 While modern Athens is building up very rapidly, 
 with many new and handsome business blocks, it seems 
 to me very singular in taking a stroll down one of the 
 principal business streets to find the shutters up and 
 notices that the stores were closed from twelve noon to 
 three-thirty — my time was one-thirty p.m. — and I found 
 not only the banks and stores closed, but even the boot- 
 blacks stretched out asleep on the door steps. But this 
 is Oriental, not western, life, and they seem to think
 
 GREECE AND TURKEY 85 
 
 that I am very foolish for not staying at home and sleep- 
 ing life away, and sometimes I think that they are about 
 right, if not altogether. When I call for Adam's Ale 
 instead of red or white Grecian wine, then they know 
 for a surety that I ought to be confined in a place that 
 I saw the other day on the Island of Corfu — which the 
 driver informed me was a lunatic asylum. Probably we 
 Americans do rush things too much and burn the candle 
 at both ends, but when I climbed to the top of the 
 Acropolis I thought for a man of sixty-two past I was 
 doing pretty well by leading my kind of life. The cos- 
 tumes worn here by the Greek guards of the Palace are 
 very quaint — tight hose to the waist and a white skirt 
 from the waist to a point above the knees, something 
 like a Scottish Highlander's kilt skirt — very novel and 
 not wholly unattractive. 
 
 We drove in a carriage, by the old cemetery — with 
 many singular statues and carvings of ancient sculptures 
 — and down to Piraeus, the Port of Athens. From the 
 Gulf of Aegina we could see the Acropolis at Athens 
 and the island around which the Persian fleet went to 
 destruction at Salamis. From this gulf we passed close 
 to the island Macronissi (Helena), one of the Cyclades 
 of which Delos was the principal island, and out through 
 the narrow pass or channel between the islands of 
 Andros and Euboea, into the Aegean Sea, and one of 
 the most beautiful of the many seas through which we 
 have passed in our long journey. It is no wonder that 
 when the Aryan race came down across Asia Minor 
 to this beautiful sea they should have exclaimed on 
 seeing it, "Thalassa! Thalassa !" (The sea! The sea!) 
 
 On Sunday, June 20th, about noon, the day being 
 bright and clear, we had before us — with the aid of my
 
 86 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 strong field glass — the most pleasing prospects on land 
 and sea. On sea many sailing vessels in full-spread 
 sails, many steamers and other craft — on land Mt. Athos 
 on the left, and passing between the Asiatic shore and 
 the island of Tenedos — a narrow way — we had a good 
 view of Tenedo, quaint with its many tanks and large 
 windmills and the old Venetian fortifications and build- 
 ings, and from the time of the Trojan war a great naval 
 station. The steamer, which keeps near the shores of 
 Asia Minor, passed Eski-Stamboul (Alexandria-Troas), 
 a place visited by the Apostle Paul, and from which he 
 passed over into Macedonia on the other side. It was 
 here, on his return from Greece, that he restored to life 
 Eutychus, who had fallen from an upper window in his 
 sleep. NiOw we came up to the Dardanelles (Helles- 
 pont), and on either side we see the Turkish forts — with 
 disappearing guns, said to be Krupp of the latest model 
 — commanding the entrance, and it would seem to be 
 fatal to any ship to pass them, as the entrance is so 
 narrow. And just back a short distance from here are 
 the ruins of ancient Troy, and right here is where 
 Xerxes built his bridge of boats across the Hellespont 
 and marched his army into Greece. We certainly en- 
 joyed beyond power of description these many scenes 
 of historic interest, and the reminiscences will be a 
 theme of gladness the rest of our days. The sea is so 
 narrow here that it was not much of a swim for Leander 
 to cross over to see Hero. Our steamer stopped here at 
 Dardanelles for some two hours, but this is Turkish soil 
 and we cannot go on shore without a teskereh, although 
 our passport issued by the Secretary of State is vised 
 by a Turkish consul. 
 
 At the town of Dardanelles, a town of fifteen thousand
 
 GREECE AND TURKEY 87 
 
 people, we saw three more forts with large guns in plain 
 view, one on the European and two on the Asiatic side 
 — the points of land not exceeding one mile gives a com- 
 plete command of the channel. One pleasant sight here 
 was to see Old Glory flying from a pole in front of the 
 United States Consulate, and while we saw flags of other 
 nations on masts none looked quite so good to us as the 
 Stars and Stripes. There are three towns here — Dar- 
 danelles on the Asiatic, and two others on the European 
 side. The town is on a plain, and on the water front it 
 was crowded with Turks, who seemed to be at leisure, 
 although the day (Sunday) was not so with them, as 
 Friday is their day of worship and rest, but Turkey is 
 now passing through a change of dynasty that creates 
 unrest, and crowds gather to hear the latest news, and 
 papers are as eagerly sought and read as they were dur- 
 ing our late Civil or Spanish war. I soon learned the 
 cause of the commotion in the city, for an English 
 steamer came into the bay while our steamer was 
 anchored there, with a Turkish officer on board, and then 
 out came twenty to thirty rowboats filled with people, 
 Turkish flags and banners flying, and escorted the gen- 
 eral from the ship to the landing. The soldiers came 
 down from the fort to assist in the reception and all 
 seemed to welcome the commander under the new 
 regime. At the north side of the little bay is the narrow- 
 est passage of the Dardanelles, and I have never seen any 
 place more strongly fortified. We passed up to the city 
 of Gallipoli — thirty thousand people — on the left or Euro- 
 pean side of the Dardanelles, and thence out into the 
 sea of Marmora. 
 
 I got up at four a.m., in order to see the entrance of 
 the steamer into the Bosphorus and to have a look at
 
 88 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 the city of Constantinople. The sun rose at 4:15 a.m. 
 and at 4 :30 we came into sight of the domes and minarets 
 of the mosque St. Sophia, the finest in the world, and of 
 many others. It was a perfect morning and I was well 
 repaid for the exertion. 
 
 Constantine, the Roman emperor, was wise in trans- 
 ferring his capital from the city of Rome on the Tiber 
 to the new city named after him on the Bosphorus, for 
 it is the finest site for a city that I have yet seen. The 
 Golden Horn divides Stamboul from Pera and the Bos- 
 phorus from Scutari on the Asiatic side, so that the one 
 million inhabitants are divided into the three sections of 
 the city. In the morning sunrise the gilt domes and min- 
 arets on all sides were brilliant and a sight unparalleled. 
 
 As we entered the harbor our steamer was surrounded 
 with boats of many kinds — some with merchandise, oth- 
 ers to land passengers from the steamer and many in 
 fantastic Turkish garb. We landed, and the first thing 
 demanded was an examination of our passport, which 
 being duly vised allowed us to pass into the custom house 
 for the examination of our luggage. After passing out 
 from the customs, another Turkish officer hailed us and 
 again our passport had to be examined. We took a car- 
 riage for our hotel — the Pera Palace — on the hill, and the 
 first thing attracting our attention was the large, mangy, 
 lazy dogs lying in the street. Mrs. B. started soon to 
 count them and in a few blocks had counted one hundred 
 and then she stopped. The dogs do not have owners, 
 but as the garbage is swept into the street they forage 
 it for a living, and the guide tells us that the dogs have 
 certain sections of the city and will not allow any dogs 
 from other sections to enter, and if they trespass, all the
 
 GREECE AND TURKEY 89 
 
 dogs combine and drive them out, but if a dog wishes to 
 pass through to another section, they will escort him 
 through safely, but he must abide only in his own allotted 
 quarter. The city seems quiet, but you see armed sol- 
 diers on every hand ready to quell any uprising, and the 
 opinion seems prevalent that the new regime has come 
 to stay and that public order and security of life will be 
 better than ever before. But to improve the conditions 
 here the stranger must be treated with courtesy and en- 
 couraged to come, instead of treating him at every turn 
 as though he was loaded with dynamite. 
 
 We find many new and interesting things here, but as 
 a city it is very much like others, except that it is Ori- 
 ental and not Occidental, Mohammedan and not Chris- 
 tian. Old conditions are certainly changing for the bet- 
 ter, and if the Young Turks — the Constitutional party — 
 can continue in control and dominate the empire for a 
 few years there may be hope for a better condition of 
 things, but what a day may bring forth here no one can 
 tell. I am truly glad that we did not give up our antic- 
 ipated visit here, although we had to come alone into a 
 strange land — strange religion, with an unknown tongue. 
 Women are degraded, and in fact become the slaves of 
 men under Mohammedanism, and to see them is only to 
 pity them in their helpless condition. If a tree is known 
 by its fruit, truly Mohammedanism is not to be com- 
 pared with Christianity in its beneficent results in the life 
 of the people. Polygamy is taught and the Koran 
 (Sale's), page 332, allowed the Prophet "Any other 
 believing woman, if she give herself unto the Prophet, 
 in case the Prophet desireth to take her to wife. This 
 is a peculiar privilege granted unto thee above the rest 
 of the true believers."
 
 TURKEY. 
 
 The City of Constantinople — Its Many Domes and 
 Minarets — Palatial Buildings and Vast Ship- 
 ping in the Harbor — Our Correspondent Visits 
 the Mohammedan Mosque of St. Sophia, Which 
 He Describes as the Acme of Beauty and Mag- 
 nificence — From the Turkish Capital to Bu- 
 charest and Scenes En Route. 
 
 Bucharest, Roumania, June 24, '09. 
 
 MY last letter was from Constantinople and gave an 
 account of our approach to the city from the sea 
 of Marmora by early morning sunlight, and of 
 the dogs, but did not take up the sights of the city. We 
 first, Mrs. B. and I, climbed up the high Tower of Galata, 
 built by the Venetians many centuries ago, but still in a 
 good state of preservation, being so solidly built. It is 
 on a high point and many stories higher than the high- 
 est building, and being circular, with a balcony surround- 
 ing the top, it gave a magnificent view of the city in all 
 directions. 
 
 The city of Constantinople has four subdivisions — 
 Stamboul, the main city, south of the Golden Horn ; 
 Pera and Galata, on the north, and Scutari, across the 
 Bosphorus, on the Asiatic side — the city being at the 
 entrance to the Bosphorus — sometimes spelled Bosporus 
 — Cowsford or Oxford — it being the narrow place of 
 cattle shipping in ancient times. The Golden Horn is 
 a narrow bay or inlet, running up in a horn-shape, and 
 along which the many Jewish shops collected in ancient
 
 TURKEY 91 
 
 times, and where they coined so much money that it 
 took the name Golden Horn. Two bridges are built 
 across, the shipping all gathering below the old and the 
 new bridge, across both of which we drove to see the 
 immense crowds or throngs going back and forth, each 
 one paying toll. From our high tower — it being a clear 
 day — we could see the multitude of people crossing — the 
 city of Stamboul, with its many domes and minarets, 
 and its many palatial buildings — the vast shipping in the 
 harbor of all kinds of steamers, sailing vessels and other 
 kinds of craft — the tugs pulling vessels out and bring- 
 ing others in, and the ferry-boats running from the new 
 bridge, back and forth to Scutari on the other side. 
 Then we could see up the Bosphorus and down and out 
 into the Sea of Marmora. Then below us was a city 
 of more than a million of people — the great majority 
 wearing the red fez cap of the Turk and the fantastic 
 costume of bright scarlet colors that so delight the male 
 Turk, while the women are generally clad in black and 
 heavily veiled, so that only the eyes peep out, and a 
 man would not know his own mother or sister. Then 
 on the Pera-Galata side you could see the newer city 
 running over the hills and containing the Sultan's palace, 
 the Marine and Military buildings, the buildings of for- 
 eign consulates, ministers and embassies. The United 
 States Embassy has just purchased a handsome building 
 here, quite near the Hotel Pera Palace, where we reside 
 during our stay in Constantinople. I had to call at the 
 office of the Consul-General and have my passport 
 vised — then go to the Consul-General of Roumania and 
 have it vised by him in order to visit the kingdom of 
 Roumania — each costing one dollar — and I had to have
 
 92 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 it vised by the Turkish Consul before being allowed to 
 enter Turkey — another dollar. 
 
 In leaving the tower we drove across the bridge to 
 visit the Mohammedan Mosque, St. Sophia, the hand- 
 somest and most expensive one in the world, the next 
 one being the Mosque of Omar on the site of Solomon's 
 Temple, which we visited while in Jerusalem. It has 
 a very high dome, with four very high minarets, from 
 which the Moslem priest calls upon the followers of 
 Islam to pray and proclaim from the street corners and 
 housetops that there is but "one God and Mahomet is 
 His Prophet." This was once a Christian church, built 
 either by Constantine the Great or his son Constantius, 
 and I could see where the pictures of Christ had been 
 effaced from the walls and saw the mark of the bloody 
 hand on the pillar to commemorate a Christian butchery. 
 Some of the pillars that were in Solomon's Temple were 
 brought here and placed in this. The lacquer work and 
 plating in the ceilings and dome are said to be of pure 
 gold, and as I had no chance to assay it, could not deny 
 the allegation. But the building certainly is the very 
 acme of beauty and magnificence. This is where the 
 Sultan in great pomp comes once a year to visit and sits 
 behind latticed screens — like all the Turkish houses have 
 to conceal the women — so that you could not see the per- 
 son behind in the Sultan's box. The church has no 
 seats, only matting, upon which the pious place prayer 
 rugs, and praying bow the head to the floor three times 
 with the face turned toward Mecca. The women never 
 come into the main floor with the men, but occupy gal- 
 leries prepared for them. We heard the boys repeating 
 pages of the Koran to a priest in a sing-song tone of
 
 TURKEY 93 
 
 voice. From here we went to the Museum and saw the 
 finest tomb probably in the world for its size, said to 
 have contained the remains of Alexander the Great, 
 although only a few scraps, not more than a handful, 
 remain, which are on exhibition, and plainly say "such 
 is human greatness." The Alexandria Sarcophagus of 
 Pentelic marble is really beautiful and in a wonderful 
 state of preservation. The horses and chariots are mag- 
 nificent, and Alexander the Great is represented on it. 
 It was found at Sidon. Near by the Alexander tomb 
 was one of a king, being the sarcophagus, his actual 
 remains in a glass case, showing the skull bones and 
 viscera, being mummified by some powers known to 
 the ancients, and well preserved, though buried centuries 
 before the birth of Christ. 
 
 One of the famous sights in Stamboul was the Turk- 
 ish Bazaar, where seven thousand shops are collected 
 within a few blocks and mostly in one building — such 
 a babel of voices — and pulling and cajoling you to stop 
 and examine their wares. We drove out to the Yildiz- 
 Kiosk, the residence of the deposed Sultan, and we 
 walked through the palace grounds, being the first 
 Americans accorded the privilege, so our dragoman said, 
 as the grounds were only opened on Saturday and our 
 visit was on Monday following. The greatest collections 
 of pigeons — which are sacred and not killed here foi 
 food — if not in number, in variety, that we have evei 
 seen. A high wall — some thirty feet — surrounds the 
 place. Fine trees with all manner of fruits, waterfalls, 
 running streams, fine swards of lawn and costing im 
 mense sums of money to create and maintain, and all for 
 the personal use of the Sultan. The new regime, if able
 
 94 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 to stay in the saddle, is doing away with all this. We 
 passed the Harem — every opening to the public streets 
 or grounds being closed — not a window — just a blank 
 wall thirty to forty feet high. We also saw the build- 
 ings shotted and shelled on the thirteenth of April last, 
 when the soldiers under the command of the Young 
 Turks overturned the government and imprisoned the 
 Sultan. We also visited the tomb of the brother of the 
 old Sultan, believed to have been poisoned, while the 
 new Sultan was kept in prison by the old one for nearly 
 thirty years, so that he now shows weakness of mind 
 from his long incarceration, and the government will not 
 be managed by him, but by the Constitutional Assembly. 
 
 The Senate and House was in session when I passed 
 the building, but I could not enter without permit to 
 be obtained through our Embassy. On leaving Con- 
 stantinople we passed by steamer up the Bosphorus, pass- 
 ing Therapia and many beautiful places and summer 
 homes and numerous cities along the banks, and so near 
 that it made a perfect panorama of changing sights and 
 scenes. No lovelier ride in all the world than from 
 Constantinople for thirty miles, I should say, in distance, 
 to the Black Sea. 
 
 The fortifications at the mouth of the Bosphorus com- 
 ing from the Black Sea are as strong and impregnable 
 as are the ones coming up from the Aegean Sea into 
 the Dardanelles. In fact the only way in which the city 
 could be taken would be from the land side, and that 
 would have serious drawbacks. Probably no city in the 
 world is so well situated for defense and for beauty of 
 location as Constantinople, and for centuries it was the 
 battle ground of Europe. It was here that the British
 
 TURKEY 95 
 
 buried their dead resulting from the Crimean war, and 
 the English burying ground is still maintained at Scutari. 
 We sailed out into the Black Sea for one hundred and 
 seventy miles to the port of Constanza on the eastern 
 side of Europe, and from there took train to Bucharest, 
 the capital of the kingdom of Roumania, taken from 
 the sovereignity of Turkey in 1877 and 1878 and made 
 a kingdom in 1881. 
 
 Constanza is a great shipping port with a fine quay 
 and wharf to which steamers come. The train ride of 
 one hundred and forty miles to this city had many in- 
 teresting features. The land is fertile and the crops 
 grown are barley, wheat, corn, hay and potatoes. The 
 land is plowed with six-ox teams, very large and strong 
 and all white, and the plow is not held, nor ridden as a 
 sulkey, but the driver walks along by the side of his 
 oxen. The land is plowed very deep and the grains 
 grown are healthy and vigorous. The acreage is im- 
 mense, and I saw as many as twenty-six ox teams in 
 a single field. The corn was about twelve to eighteen 
 inches high and cultivated with the same kind of teams, 
 only two oxen yoked widely apart, so that the plow ran 
 in between one row of corn and the oxen walking with 
 the row four feet wide between them. The villagers 
 come out to work, and as many as twenty were in one 
 field hoeing and weeding the corn after plowing. The 
 corn looked as well as in Auglaize county's best land. 
 Cattle and horses in large herds and large Mocks of 
 sheep, but not a fence to be seen, all herded by keepers. 
 The ground was as level as the prairies of Kansas, but 
 many forests are seen. I should judge that the people 
 here look upon this as a stable government and that
 
 96 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 security to life and property can be had, and that they 
 who sow can reap, which should be so, for the laborer 
 is worthy of his reward. I doubt if such a condition of 
 things exists in Turkey, for there they farm out the 
 taxes, and the tax-gatherer, having bought the privilege 
 of collecting the revenues, makes the poor taxpayer pay 
 the last farthing. 
 
 Bucharest is a city of three hundred thousand people, 
 and in our drive today we saw the King's Palace, many 
 very fine government buildings and the beautiful home 
 of the son of the king, heir apparent, some very fine 
 boulevards and some very handsome monuments. The 
 business blocks are well built and the stores filled with 
 beautiful things. 
 
 One serious disadvantage in visiting here is the fact 
 that English is seldom spoken. Not one in our hotel 
 can speak English, and with my smattering of German 
 I have to make my wants known to the portier at the 
 door. While there are many things of interest seen 
 here, they are much like things seen in other cities, and 
 I shall not attempt to describe them. Tomorrow we 
 shall leave here for Budapest in Hungary, and leave the 
 Balkan States which have been the buffer between Eu- 
 rope and the Turks for many years.
 
 ROUMAXIA AND HUNGARY 
 
 Our Correspondent Descrires Buda-Pest— Scenes 
 Along the Danube River, and Fees and Tips 
 Required on Steamer and at Hotels. 
 
 Buda-Pest. Hungary, June 26, 1909. 
 
 THE railway journey from Bucharest in Roumania 
 to this city on the Danube, interspersed with a 
 diversity of scenes, rivers, mountains, canyons, 
 villages with the Roumanian and Hungarian peasants 
 and villagers in their quaint, and to us curious, cos- 
 tumes, was of great interest. 
 
 In our compartment was a mother and daughter from 
 Bucharest. The daughter, her father being in the diplo- 
 matic service, had learned to speak a little English, and 
 served as interpreter for us and was able to point out 
 and explain the places and scenes of special interest on 
 the way. In going through the custom house at the 
 Hungarian-Roumanian frontier, our new-made friends 
 assisted us materially, as it was the most exacting on 
 our route of travel. 
 
 We passed the summer home of the King of Rou- 
 mania at Senoia, well up in the mountains, a handsome 
 chalet, fine roadways and charming views in all direc- 
 tions. When we entered Hungary we came into the 
 dominions of the aged Emperor Francis Joseph, who 
 rules over the Austrian-Hungarian Empire and which 
 is liable to have a separation or revolution at the 
 death of the Emperor, for the Hungarian people are 
 tired of this hyphenated union. The Austrians are 
 largely Roman Catholic while the Hungarians are mostly
 
 98 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 Protestant. It was this religious conflict between the 
 Catholics and Protestants that caused the downfall of 
 Buda-Pest in the time of Sultan Solyman, called the 
 Magnificent, when Louis the Second was King of Hun- 
 gary in A.D. 1525, but at the battle of Mohacs was 
 defeated by the Turks and perished in the flight by the 
 falling of his horse. 
 
 Later when Solyman with his Turkish army advanced 
 toward Vienna, the Catholics and Protestant Christians, 
 laying aside their sectarian controversies, united against 
 the Turks and hurled them back across the Danube and 
 turned them into a hasty flight through Servia and Bos- 
 nia to the Bosphorus. 
 
 Buda-Pest is a beautiful city of nearly five hundred 
 thousand people, and since 1873, the former towns of 
 Bluda, the business portion on one side of the Danube, 
 and Pest, the palatial and residential section on the other, 
 have been consolidated and known as Buda-Pest. 
 
 The Danube River is one of the widest, clearest and 
 deepest rivers in Europe, and from its mouth at the 
 Black Sea it goes up through Roumania along the 
 dividing line of Servia from Hungary to Belgrade and 
 up through Hungary and Austria to Vienna, and since 
 1896, at the completion of the work of making a chan- 
 nel through what is called the "Iron Gate of the Dan- 
 ube" at Orsova, navigable for fair-sized river steamers 
 all the way. 
 
 At Buda-Pest our hotel, the "Hungaria," is on the 
 bank of the river, and we could see the steamers plying 
 up and down the river at all hours. We took several 
 steamer rides across and down and up the river, one to 
 the Island "Margarethcn," a great pleasure resort and 
 park and filled with people listening to the Hungarian
 
 ROUMANIA AND HUNGARY 99 
 
 concerts and other interesting entertainments. We had 
 steamed down the Thames to its mouth and up to the 
 "Stanes"; down and up the Seine in France; up and 
 down the Nile in Egypt, on the Pearl in China, up the 
 Scheldt in Belgium, the Spree at Berlin, up the Rhine, 
 on the Tiber at Rome, the canals of Venice, and up our 
 own Hudson to Albany and we pronounce the Danube 
 the finest of all these water journeys, for attractive sur- 
 roundings. The palace and grounds on the sloping 
 hillside of the Pest side of the river presents a beauti- 
 ful and charming view from our hotel windows, and 
 crossing over we spent some time in the shade of the 
 trees and in examination of the botanical specimens of 
 plants, bushes and trees. The fine large Parliament 
 buildings, on the Buda side, with lawns sloping down 
 to the river's edge, are charming. The buildings for 
 stores are elegant, the city is clean and well kept and 
 anyone inclined to travel should not exclude Buda-Pest 
 from the places of interest to be seen, for it is well 
 worth a visit, and a promenade along the quay of the 
 Danube is attractive. 
 
 In 1894. the Hungarian hero, Louis Kossuth, one of 
 the ablest statesman and sincerest patriots, died, and 
 with him perished the most insistent and persistent 
 opponent of the union with Austria. His funeral at 
 Buda-Pest was the occasion for large public demonstra- 
 tions and party feeling ran high, and so intense was the 
 patriotic outbursts that theaters and places of public 
 amusement were closed to prevent riots, if not a 
 revolution. 
 
 The architectural construction of public buildings, 
 palaces, and residences is of the highest order and 
 substantially built. The shops and stores are filled with
 
 ioo CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 the choicest of fabrics, and the show windows make dis- 
 plays as charming as on Regent street in London or 
 the boulevards of Paris. 
 
 A magnificent suspension bridge crosses the Danube 
 here and sufficiently high above the water for large 
 steamers to pass underneath. The thoroughfare along 
 the river bank is thronged with people at almost all 
 hours and cafes line it, on the building side, where 
 luncheons or repasts are served at all hours of the day, 
 and while prices are not low, yet everything to tempt 
 the palate is offered, well cooked and well served. 
 Cleanliness is the rule, politeness always shown, and 
 marked attention given and the choicest viands served 
 if you tempt the waiter with a small gratuity, which is 
 expected in all European countries and not refused in 
 our own. 
 
 There are some fine equestrian and other statues on 
 the Boulevards and great artistic taste is shown. Our 
 driver, who could speak some English, pointed out the 
 several places of interest and drove through the mag- 
 nificent public parks of the city and environs. 
 
 We shall go by train from here to Vienna, although 
 we would prefer the steamer ride up the Danube, but 
 going up stream the passage requires so much greater 
 time, that we are compelled to relinquish the preferable 
 route, and hasten on our journey. This is required, not 
 because we do not desire to linger on the way, but hav- 
 ing secured our steamer passage home on a date set, 
 we are required to make time on our journey, for the 
 crowded steamers are booked ahead for passage weeks 
 in advance at this season of the year. 
 
 Let us say in passing that to go up stream is better 
 than going down, to see the places of interest along
 
 ROUMANIA AND HUNGARY 101 
 
 the route, hence to go up the Rhine or Hudson is the 
 better way. 
 
 We have our compartment engaged for Vienna to go 
 up in the morning. The first-class compartments are 
 exclusive and pleasant in traveling in a foreign country, 
 for the mass of the people travel second-class. In Eng- 
 land they travel third-class. Second-class on the conti- 
 nent of Europe and the British Isles is as good as first- 
 class on our American railways. 
 
 I am often asked about fees in traveling on steam- 
 ship, and so you will pardon the digression here for 
 me to answer the question for intending travelers. The 
 first-class passage ticket does not include such personal 
 matters as stewards' tips. The dining-room steward, 
 who is assigned to wait on you at table, serves you on 
 the entire voyage of the steamer and should receive as 
 a minimum fee twenty-five cents a day for each person. 
 The state-room steward to whose care and custody your 
 room is assigned, should receive the same fee, unless 
 you have been sea-sick or required other special atten- 
 tion ; in such event, his services should be specially 
 rewarded for such extra attendance. The bathroom 
 steward who prepares your bath each morning of the 
 passage, and who assigns you your time of service and 
 calls you when the bath is prepared should receive 
 twenty-five cents, to be paid at the end of the trip, for 
 each bath. The deck steward who sells you a steamer 
 chair and for which you must pay one dollar, who serves 
 you with ''bouillon" and wafers in the morning and 
 "tea and cake" in the afternoon and takes care of your 
 steamer rugs, should be paid from one to two dollars 
 fee for the voyage, according to the services rendered. 
 Then the library steward, if you take books from the 
 steamer library, and who serves you with pen, ink and
 
 102 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 paper, must be remembered. For the "Band of Music" 
 on the voyage, a subscription is taken just before the 
 steamer lands, and for which you pay such sum as the 
 music has appealed to your tastes or added to the pleas- 
 ures of the trip. The band is usually made up from 
 table and room stewards. The music from the Band is 
 sometimes very highly appreciated. 
 
 One of the pleasantest memories of our voyage was 
 one Sunday morning when crossing the Indian Ocean 
 on the steamer "Goeben" we were awakened from sleep 
 by the sweet strains of the notes made by the German 
 Band in playing Luther's hymn, "Ein' feste burg ist 
 Unser Gott". The time and the place made it of un- 
 usual interest and attractiveness. Religious exercises 
 were held every Sunday, led by the purser, Mr. Allen, 
 on the "Korea" in the crossing the Pacific Ocean and 
 by the missionaries returning home from foreign fields, 
 in the dining-room of the second cabin, on the German 
 steamers. The Sabbath morning music, singing and 
 sermons gave us pleasure and profit, and the voyage 
 without them would be monotonous, tiresome and tend 
 to detract from one's spiritual growth and the finer 
 religious feelings we so much need in life's journey. 
 
 These are all the required fees, and the amounts 
 stated can be added to according to your wealth, liber- 
 ality or service required. At the hotels you must not 
 forget the boy who carries up your luggage, the maid 
 who takes care of your room, the waiter who serves you 
 at table and anyone else who renders you special service. 
 Ten per cent of your bill is considered a reasonable fee 
 for attendance. 
 
 The "Concierge" or "Portier", the man with large 
 brass buttons, with much gold lace, who looks all the 
 world like a general of the army or a drum-major, must 
 not be forgotten in your tipping and he will not reject
 
 ROUMANIA AND HUNGARY 103 
 
 it with scorn, but accept it as a matter of course, and 
 he is worth the price. He should be your guide and 
 cicerone. With a doffing- of his cap, and a smile, he 
 greets you when you arrive and salutes you majestic- 
 ally when you depart. He is your friend and you must 
 treat him as such or you will be beaten at every turn. 
 If you want a carriage, drosky, cab, cart, ricksha, auto 
 or any other mode of conveyance, ask him to call it, 
 tell him where you want to go, and he will tell "cabby" 
 or "kutcher" and then ask him the "fare" and he will 
 tell you, and when you get to your journey's end pay 
 the amount and you will have no trouble. If you land 
 in a strange city, have the man who carries your bag- 
 gage from the car to call a cab and tell him your hold 
 and then when you arrive tell your "portier" to pay the 
 fare and charge to your bill and you will not be cheated. 
 Ask him directions, names of places of interest, the 
 points you should not miss and he is a veritable encyclo- 
 pedia and will be worth more than a guide book. He 
 speaks several languages, understands all fees and re- 
 quirements, and you are safe in his hands. On our 
 long journey the "Grand Hotel du Boulevard" in the 
 city of Bucharest was the only hostelry where this 
 potentate did not understand the English language, and 
 that because it was not on a frequent route of travel, 
 or was out of season. 
 
 We will pass through Pressburg, the old capital of 
 Hungary, on our way up to Vienna, or "IVicn", as the 
 Germans call it. 
 
 We have not attempted to describe the old national 
 museum, which contains a very rich and valuable collec- 
 tion of ancient Hungarian curiosities and works of art, 
 and many other places and things of interest, for our 
 letters must be brief and only a passing comment on 
 what we may see on our way around.
 
 AUSTRIA. 
 
 From Buda-Pest, Hungary, to Christiania, Norway, 
 Our Correspondent Takes a "Look See" at 
 "schoenbrunn," the beautiful summer home 
 of Emperor Francis Joseph, Near Vienna — And 
 Drives Around the Emperor's Palace and Down 
 the Full Length of "Unter Den Linden" in 
 Berlin — He Sees the King of Denmark at 
 Copenhagen, But Not Knowing Who He Was 
 Did Not Raise His Hat. 
 
 Christiania, Norway, July 5, 1909. 
 
 I AM writing this letter at 8 130 p.m. without any light 
 and the sun has not set, and it will be daylight until 
 eleven o'clock and dawn again at 3 a.m. We arc 
 now not far from the midnight sun — sixty degrees north 
 latitude — as far north as Alaska. 
 
 My last letter was from Buda-Pest in Hungary, and 
 from there we went to Vienna, Austria, passing through 
 fine farming country, well tilled and with abundant 
 crops — just such as are raised in Ohio. 
 
 The city of Vienna is one of the handsomest on the 
 continent of Europe. We drove through the various 
 sections — to the city palace of the Emperor Francis 
 Joseph — to the Parliament buildings — to the City Hall, 
 probably the finest in Europe— to the picture galleries — 
 to the People's Park, where a monument is erected to 
 the late Empress Elizabeth, assassinated at Geneva some 
 years ago, and who built the beautiful palace on the 
 island of Corfu in the Ionian Sea, described in a former
 
 AUSTRIA 105 
 
 letter. She was beautiful and an Empress, but was not 
 happy. The park contained a beautiful Greek temple 
 that had been moved over from Ephesus in Asia Minor, 
 where Paul once preached. It was surrounded with 
 handsome fluted columns and with Ionic capitals and is 
 a fine specimen of Grecian architecture. We went out 
 to Schoenbrunn, the beautiful summer home of the Em- 
 peror, and where he entertains his royal friends. Some 
 of the finest horse chestnut trees line the approach to the 
 palace on either side that I have ever seen anywhere, 
 and the large grounds, open to the public, make a beau- 
 tiful park. 
 
 Leaving Vienna we went through Prague and down 
 along the bank of the Elbe river for nearly one hundred 
 miles to Dresden, the capital of Saxony, one of the 
 states of the German Empire. 
 
 We spent some two days in Berlin. Having spent 
 some two weeks there just six years before, we were 
 familiar with the principal places of interest. We took 
 a drive around the Emperor's Palace — down the full 
 length of "Unter den Linden'' through the "Branden- 
 berger Tor" — around the Parliament buildings — passing 
 the statues of Bismarck and Roon, and through the full 
 length of the "Tier Garten", then out to Charlottenberg, 
 visiting the mausoleum containing the sarcophagus that 
 holds the remains of the late Emperor William the First, 
 who was crowned at the Palace of Versailles, just out 
 of Paris, at the time of the Franco-Prussian war of 
 1 871. He was succeeded by his son Frederick William, 
 father of the present Emperor, and who reigned just 
 ninety-nine days — a very short, sad and sorrowful reign, 
 and his statue at Charlottenberg is surrounded by a 
 wreath of thorns indicating his sorrowful term. He is
 
 106 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 buried at Potsdam, where lies the great King of Prussia 
 — Frederick the Great. 
 
 The city of Berlin, containing over two millions of 
 people, is a clean, orderly and beautiful city. Not a beg- 
 gar to be seen anywhere, while poor Italy swarms with 
 beggars. Vienna was also exempt from this scourge, 
 and the same may be said of all Scandinavia. 
 
 In leaving Berlin we came north to Rostock and there 
 passed over the Baltic Sea — distance thirty miles at this 
 point — to the island of Zeeland, and then again by 
 steamer a short distance to Denmark, and on my arrival 
 there I was met by King Frederick the Seventh just as 
 I landed in Denmark. The King of Denmark passed the 
 window of our car — myself and wife having the com- 
 partment alone — twice. When I noticed hats going off 
 along the car I wondered who the person was and learned 
 that it was the King. His private car passed ours later 
 and we followed it into Copenhagen. The King looked 
 at us and no doubt wondered why I did not raise my 
 hat, which I would and should have done had I known 
 who he was. 
 
 We left Copenhagen at i p.m. July 3rd for Christiania, 
 the capital of Norway, and passed up through the 
 Kategat, the Skagerack, and Christiania — Fiord — sailed 
 three hundred miles, reaching Christiania on the night 
 of July 4th at 9 p.m., and while it was raining it was 
 still light as day. We spent the Fourth of July on the 
 steamer "King Haakon" on a somewhat stormy and 
 storm-tossed sea, but it was cool — so cold in fact that I 
 had my overcoat on all day, and that on July 4th. 
 
 We stopped for an hour or two at Frederick's Haven, 
 and went on shore, but did not stay long on account of 
 rain. We spent July 5th as usual — carriage riding
 
 AUSTRIA 107 
 
 through the city — botanical gardens and streets lined 
 with beautiful homes. We walked up to the palace of 
 King Haakon the Seventh, but did not go into the pal- 
 ace, but did walk through the palace grounds and noticed 
 one thing — the absence of soldiers on guard, which 
 seemed to us much better to see a king protected by the 
 affections of his people than by bayonets. I was glad 
 to see how warmly the people of Denmark greeted their 
 King, showing that he was respected by the people. 
 
 As usual we visited the Picture Gallery — and we also 
 visited a ship of the Vikings, of exceeding interest, for 
 it was just such a one as was used by the Norsemen who 
 crossed over from Iceland three hundred years before 
 Columbus and undoubtedly landed on the shores of 
 America, but as the discovery was not made known to 
 the world and possession of the land was not held, it 
 should not detract from the honor due Columbus. It 
 looked like a frail bark on which to sail into boisterous 
 and tempestuous seas, but these hardy Norsemen are and 
 always have been seamen. 
 
 We shall leave here tomorrow for Gothenberg, Sweden 
 — the town which has gained great fame as the place 
 where liquors are sold without profit — and I hope to be 
 able to look into the system, and if it is a good one, and 
 they do not tax me too much tariff duty in New York 
 on my return, I may bring it over with me and loan it 
 to the city council of Wapakoneta. 
 
 From there we expect to spend two and a half days 
 sailing on the famous Goeta Canal from Gothenberg 
 through Trollhatten to Stockholm, Sweden, going still 
 farther and farther from home. We are enjoying the 
 world-wide travel in many and strange lands.
 
 SCANDINAVIA. 
 
 Norwegian Country and Village Life as Seen in a 
 Two Hundred and Twenty Miles Trip by Rail. 
 Our Correspondent Takes Steamer at Gothen- 
 burg and Travels Three Hundred and Sixty- 
 four Miles by Canal, Lakes and Baltic Sea. 
 Through Picturesque Swedish Scenery to 
 Stockholm, Passing Through Seventy-eive 
 Locks on the Way — Sightseeing by Tally-ho 
 Coach in Stockholm. 
 
 Copenhagen, Denmark, July 13, '09. 
 
 MY last letter was from Christiania, Norway, and 
 since then we have traveled some two hundred 
 and twenty miles by rail to Gothenburg, most of 
 which was in Norway, and gave us a passing view of 
 Norwegian country and village life. The crops grown 
 are mostly rye, hay and potatoes. The cattle are fine, 
 and in some cases we noticed the Danish method of feed- 
 ing the cows — sometimes you will see twenty, thirty or 
 forty head of cattle in a field of clover or timothy hay, 
 all tethered with ropes so that each one can only reach 
 such a portion of the grass as the rope will allow, and 
 the grass is eaten off clean. The line of cattle will reach 
 entirely across the field and will take off clean about 
 twenty feet square of the grass. There is no hooking 
 or horning of the weaker by the stronger, no tramping 
 down and wasting, but the grass is taken off as by a 
 mower. Why could not this method be used to advan- 
 tage in our country?
 
 SCANDINAVIA 109 
 
 One of the remarkable things was to see the extreme 
 neatness at the farmhouses, at the railway stations and 
 everywhere — no waste, no rubbish, no filth. Such but- 
 ter as we had up here — clean, sweet and delicious. The 
 grass is cut almost altogether by the scythe, and it is a 
 rare sight indeed to see a mowing machine in the field. 
 The rye is cut either with sickle or cradle, and reaping 
 machines are not seen. The roads are all well built, 
 strong horses, and much timber uncut. Some parts of 
 the country good soil and productive — but much land 
 stony, sterile and barren. No wonder that the Scandina- 
 vians have gone to Minnesota and the Dakotas in such 
 numbers. The city of Gothenburg on the west coast of 
 Sweden — on the Kategat — is a city of some one hundred 
 and sixty thousand people — next to Stockholm the larg- 
 est city in Sweden. It is a fine seaport and filled with 
 steam and sailing vessels from all parts of the world. 
 It has many beautiful buildings and palatial homes and 
 handsome, well-kept parks. It is also famous as the 
 father or mother of the "Gothenburg method of liquor 
 legislation," which has been enacted into law by the Par- 
 liament of Sweden and sanctioned by His Majesty, the 
 King. I visited some prominent business men and in- 
 quired about the working of the law. I then went to the 
 office headquarters in Gothenburg and obtained a copy 
 of the law in English and statistics showing results 
 accomplished. The law was enacted about twenty-five 
 years ago and has had a fair trial, and while statistics 
 show less drunkenness, yet the decrease is not great. The 
 law only allows one drink a day to a visitor to the saloon 
 or restaurant, yet in a city like Gothenburg, where there 
 are many places, he can get a drink in each one, but in 
 villages where only one place is licensed, it does better.
 
 no CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 The seller is the agent of a company and receives no 
 profit from the sale, but let me say in passing that in 
 the city of Trollhatten in Sweden, I saw a greater num- 
 ber of drunken men than I have seen in my entire travels 
 around the globe, and I had circled the globe when I 
 reached Dresden in Saxony, for I was there six years 
 before. I am bringing home a copy of the law, but I 
 would not advise its adoption by the Ohio Legislature. 
 
 On leaving Gothenburg we took a steamer on the 
 Goeta canal for Stockholm, the capital, distant three 
 hundred and sixty-four miles by the canal route. In 
 going by canal, lakes and Baltic Sea it took us two days 
 and nine hours to make the journey. The steamer was 
 small — about twenty feet wide and one hundred feet in 
 length. It had to pass through seventy-five locks on the 
 way. At Trollhatten, some fifty miles from Gothen- 
 burg, the steamer had to pass through some twelve locks 
 to get around the falls, and while the steamer was pass- 
 ing through, we walked around the falls and crossed 
 the river and ascended the high hills some three to five 
 hundred feet above the falls, and such magnificent views 
 we have never had before. The falls are the largest in 
 Europe, and while small in size compared with Niagara, 
 yet the rapids are a seething whirlpool, and it is plain 
 that one hundred and eighty thousand horse-power can 
 be developed. They are now drilling canals through the 
 solid rock for power purposes and the beauty of the falls 
 will then be gone for the gratification of this utilitarian 
 age of ours. The falls are certainly magnificent, and 
 the views, on account of the forests around them and 
 taken from such high elevations, are surpassingly mag- 
 nificent. We walked around to the city of Trollhatten,
 
 SCANDINAVIA in 
 
 some three or four miles' walk in all, and then waited 
 some time for our steamer. One morning on the journey 
 I left the steamer passing through a lock, walked on 
 for something like four or five miles, walked through 
 the streets of a Swedish town and then waited a full 
 half hour for the steamer to overtake me. This, of 
 course, was on account of delay in passing through sev- 
 eral locks. Our steamer crossed Lake Wettern, the 
 largest lake in Europe except one in Russia, then through 
 Lake Vetter and then on to the Baltic Sea, passing one 
 hundred and twenty miles from the end of the canal at 
 Mens to the city of Stockholm. The actual canal is 
 about one hundred and twenty-five miles in length and 
 was nearly one hundred years in construction, much of 
 it being driven through rock. Nils Erickson, whose 
 monument is near the central railway station in Stock- 
 holm, was one of the engineers in charge, and his son, 
 John Erickson, who built the Monitor for our govern- 
 ment during the Civil War, that destroyed the Merrimac, 
 had charge of work on the canal. It was a fine ride 
 through the heart of Sweden, and presented a moving 
 panorama of field, forest, rocky cliffs, country village, 
 farm house and country folk as we passed along. 
 
 On the Baltic Sea our little canal steamer was like a 
 cork riding on the crest of the waves as the wind was 
 high — white-caps on every hand — but it carried us safely 
 into the harbor at Stockholm only one hour late. The 
 stateroom on the steamer was small but neat, the food 
 on the steamer excellent, and altogether it was a delight- 
 ful trip and has our commendation. 
 
 Stockholm, on the eastern coast of Sweden, on the 
 Baltic Sea — a city of two hundred and fifty thousand
 
 ii2 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 people — is a prosperous city — full of ships, with a large 
 coasting- trade and well worth a visit, but to describe it 
 would be simply to repeat what we have said of many 
 others. The buildings, both business and residences, are 
 modern, the parks are beautiful and many fine monu- 
 ments are erected to Swedish heroes. The bronze 
 equestrian statue of Sweden's great soldier, Gustavus 
 Adolphus, is very fine. 
 
 After spending two days in sightseeing — mostly in a 
 tally-ho coach — we left by rail for Malmo, and from 
 there crossed over by sea to Copenhagen. The King, 
 Frederick the Seventh, had gone to Russia, so he did 
 not meet us as before. Here we have spent two days 
 carriage driving, street car riding and rubber-necking 
 the beautiful shop windows. This morning we went 
 out to the deer park — where the large forest is plenti- 
 fully supplied with black fawn and white deer — but 
 while not wild, they are much more timid than were the 
 deer in the park at Nara, Japan. The forest here with 
 giant beech, oak, ash and other trees, is of great beauty. 
 Palatial homes, surrounded by park-like grounds, line 
 the streets and roads out from Stockholm. 
 
 We expect to leave here tomorrow for Korsor, on the 
 south coast of Denmark, and will then cross over an 
 arm of the Baltic Sea to Kiel in Germany, where the 
 Imperial navy yard and ships can be seen, and from 
 there to Hamburg and Bremen. 
 
 I have written these random notes at odd moments 
 in the rush of travel and have no doubt made mistakes 
 in facts and as well in faulty construction, which more 
 leisure would have corrected.
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND. 
 
 Pastoral Scenery in the Danish Kingdom, Where 
 the People Are Well Clad, Industrious and 
 Apparently Prosperous — The German Seaport 
 of Kiel, Where the Emperor Spends Much 
 Time and Takes Great Interest in the Upbuild- 
 ing of the German Navy — The Cities of Ham- 
 burg, Bremen and Bremerhaven, Where Our 
 Correspondent Sailed on the Steamer George 
 Washington for the United States. 
 
 Steamship George Washington, July 25, 1909. 
 
 MY last letter was written from Copenhagen and 
 continued our world's journey up to that point, 
 and our only excuse for continuing our letters 
 beyond that city is to make a connected series back to 
 the entrance to New York, which we consider as home 
 again. So foreign has been a portion of our trip that 
 on one steamer we were the only Americans on the 
 steamship and no English-speaking people. 
 
 On leaving Copenhagen we went through the island 
 of Zeeland to the southwest end — this island being that 
 part of the Danish Kingdom on which Copenhagen is 
 situated. The Kingdom is mostly islands, and the only 
 part of the continent belonging to Denmark is that por- 
 tion north of Germany. In passing through from 
 Copenhagen to Korsor we saw the farms, cities and peo- 
 ple. The farm houses are all neat and well kept, nearly 
 all painted white and with tile or thatched roof of straw. 
 Now and then a slate roof, but never shingles, and gen- 
 erally but one story high. The land is comparatively
 
 ii4 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 level, well tilled, mostly grass — timothy and clover — and 
 the cattle are all sleek and fat. Such butter, cream and 
 milk as we had in Denmark, Norway and Sweden, we 
 will not soon forget. The people are industrious, hard- 
 working, well clad and seem to be prosperous. At one 
 place we saw a large picnic party, gay with bunting, 
 the lads and lasses clad in native costumes of bright 
 colors and seemed to be enjoying life to the utmost. The 
 cities carry the general appearance of neatness and 
 thrift — no tumble-down buildings, no dirt piles, weeds 
 and garbage to mar the surroundings. 
 
 Arriving at Korsor we took a steamship for Kiel — 
 across the Baltic Sea — a journey of six hours by steamer 
 and about one hundred miles from one port to the other. 
 In going up to Kiel we passed the mouth of the Kiel 
 ship canal, cut from the Baltic through for an outlet to 
 the North Sea — or, as the Germans now call it, the 
 German Sea. On entering Kiel the great ship-building 
 and dock-yards for warships, from Dreadnaughts, 
 cruisers, torpedo boats and submarine to every other 
 kind of warship, indicated that Germany has become a 
 great sea power, and should war on the sea take place 
 between her and any other power — the "nation engaging 
 her will think that it has been in a fight. The Emperor's 
 yacht, the Hohenzollern, was at anchor there and is cer- 
 tainly a beautiful ship. The Emperor spends much of 
 his time at Kiel and has taken great personal interest 
 in the upbuilding of the German navy. Never before 
 has Germany made such a great effort to become a sea 
 power, and she has at Kiel a great place for the build- 
 ing, launching, docking and anchoring of a great navy. 
 
 The coming into the harbor in mid-afternoon and see- 
 ing so well all the ships and craft of every kind was a
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND 115 
 
 great sight, and the stir and preparation going on — the 
 great cranes operating — the ships moving in and out of 
 the harbor — the steam whistles blowing — the docks lined 
 with people and every indication of a great city, where 
 only a few years ago was a mere fishing village — shows 
 what the German Empire is doing in these latter days. 
 The great question that arises is why all this rapid and 
 energetic building of these great war vessels? 
 
 England answers the question by saying it can only 
 mean a conflict with Great Britain, the only sea power 
 that can require so much and such energetic pushing of 
 naval vessels and the asking of such large appropriations 
 by the Reichstag, and she answers it by saying, let Great 
 Britain build and equip two new Dreadnaughts for each 
 one built by Germany. Thus preparation for war on 
 land and sea goes steadily on, and the Peace Tribunal of 
 The Hague seems only designed to settle the pigmy ques- 
 tions of small nations and states. 
 
 From Kiel we went to Altona and Hamburg, two very 
 large and prosperous cities. On the way through north- 
 ern Germany we saw some fine herds of Holstein cattle 
 and some fields of buckwheat in full blossom, a sight 
 now rarely seen. The Germans have the same thrifty 
 habits that characterize their countrymen who have emi- 
 grated to America. Quite a good many people over 
 here have spoken to me about the chances in America 
 now as compared with former years. I have replied that 
 the same industry, economy, temperate habits and safe 
 investments will always bring the same reward. I was 
 in Hamburg six years ago and can see quite a change 
 in the growth of the city. Six years past in this month 
 of July I sailed from Hamburg across the North Sea to 
 Leith, Scotland, the port of Edinburgh, and it was one
 
 u6 CIRCLING THE GLOBE 
 
 of the roughest sea voyages that it has ever been my lot 
 to encounter. It was a comparatively small steamer and 
 the North Sea was in one of its most angry moods, and 
 the steamer lurched and pitched like a drunken man. 
 My wife was literally thrown across our large stateroom 
 against an oak curtain rod, striking it with the back of 
 her head, and broke it in pieces — the curtain rod — and 
 the purser did not even ask me to pay for it. So that 
 our recollection of Hamburg as our port of sailing was 
 very acute. 
 
 From Hamburg we went to the city of Bremen, spend- 
 ing two days there in sightseeing in the parks, along 
 the shopping streets, the cathedral and through the 
 Rathans — City Hall — a building some six hundred years 
 old. The carvings are perfectly wonderful on the inte- 
 rior of the Council Chamber, and the committee rooms 
 of the Council are of rare beauty. The old oaken doors 
 that have stood for centuries, and through which many 
 generations of men have passed in and out, are massive, 
 ornamental and unique in construction. The extensive 
 ornamental work, all done before the age of machinery, 
 was the labor of many hands through many years. 
 
 From Bremen we went to Bremerhaven to take our 
 steamship, the "George Washington," for America. This 
 steamer is a perfect floating palace and well worth a 
 description. This is her second voyage. She is seven 
 hundred and twenty-two feet in length, reaching, say, 
 from the Burnett House corner farther than the Repub- 
 lican office on Auglaize street; in width seventy-eight 
 feet, wider than Auglaize street. Depth eighty feet, be- 
 ing higher than your Court House. If stood on end 
 she would tower one hundred and sixty-seven feet above 
 the Washington monument. The main dining room
 
 HOMEWARD BOUND 117 
 
 covers nearly six thousand square feet and contains seats 
 for four hundred and seventy persons. Forty-one hun- 
 dred electric lamps are distributed over the ship for light- 
 ing purposes, the current being generated by seven dy- 
 namos. There are five decks with electric elevators to 
 carry invalids and lazy people from one deck to another. 
 On every hand we see reminders of the great and good 
 first President of the United States. Full-length por- 
 traits in the smoking room, bust pictures of General 
 Washington and his wife Martha in the parlor, or So- 
 larium, as it is called ; there are handsome pictures of the 
 Capitol building, the White House, front and rear view, 
 of the Washington monument, of the residence at Mount 
 Vernon, on the Potomac, and lastly of the tomb contain- 
 ing the remains of the "Father of his country." It has 
 been said of this steamship that every improvement has 
 been applied to the George Washington, making of it 
 the most modern and most complete steamship in the 
 world. 
 
 We have in our journey around the world to Xew 
 York sailed in twelve steamships and covering a distance 
 of twenty-three thousand and two hundred miles, cover- 
 ing thirty-two oceans, seas and lakes and five thousand 
 six hundred and sixty miles by rail on land, and have 
 been quartered in twenty-eight different hotels ; we have 
 ridden camels, horses, donkeys and been carried in sedan 
 chairs and drawn in rikshas of every make and pattern. 
 We have gone south to the equator, lacking one degree, 
 and north sixty degrees almost to the midnight sun in 
 Norway ; we have suffered with cold, and melted with 
 fiercest heat on the desert in Egypt, and yet on all the 
 journeys we have been blessed with good health and 
 have met with no accident, and in our heart of hearts we 
 can say "Praise God from whom all blessings Mow."
 
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