V/^ t/*Mzd' MU ^/y^Av^^ $^r&*, c~z> %*&,, f4M>, /ml A FEW MONTHS Df THE EAST. A FEW MONTHS IN THE EAST; OR, A GLIMPSE OP THE RED, THE MAD, AND THE BLACK SEAS. BY A CANADIAN. Prot., Cap. xiii, v. 19. (fllttebec: PRINTED BY JOHN LOVELL, ST. ANN STREET. AND FOR SALE BY SAMPSONj LOW, SON & CO., 47, LTJDOATE HILL, LONDON. 1861. ~F67 DEDICATION. TO THE RIGHT REVEREND G. J. MOUNTAIN, D.D., D.C.L., lord bishop of qiebec. My Lord: The very kind notice which you were pleased to take of the letters transmitted by me, from the Holy Land, to different members of my family, is one of the chief causes that induce me to preserve and enlarge the hurried notes, marked down on the spot, during portions of my recent tour to the interesting regions of the East. Similar reasons may now, I hope, be pleaded, together with a desire of influencing others to take the same route, for appearing before the public. It will thus be seen, that your Lordship is, to a certain extent, responsible for the rashness which has prompted the publication of the following pages ; for certainly had it not been for your kind expressions of approbation, and the favorable encouragement of indulgent friends, I scarcely would have revised or expanded my rough notes for a wider circulation. I beg to thank your Lordship for the convincing proof, which you have afforded, of the sincerity of your friendly sentiments in permitting me to dedicate the result of my efforts to one, who is as much distinguished for his extensive scholarship and literary attainments, as he is esteemed for his piety, and for the zeal which he has always evinced for the interests of the Church in British North America. I have the honor to be, Your Lordship's obedient Servant, J. BELL FORSYTH. Quebec, May, 1861. CONTENTS. PAGE. Preface xi CHAPTER I. Reasons for Publishing. Some Details of the Voyage from Portland to England, in the " Hungarian," and thence to Gibraltar .1 CHAPTER II. Gibraltar 11 CHAPTER III. Malta 23 CHAPTER IV. Egypt Alexandria Suez 29 CHAPTER V. The Atlantic and Pacific Railway, vs. The Overland Route. 41 Vlll PAGE. CHAPTER VI. Return to Cairo The Pyramids 51 CHAPTER VII. From Jaffa to Jerusalem 65 CHAPTER VIII. Jerusalem and Vicinity Jericho and the Dead Sea . . 83 CHAPTER IX. Mount Zion Hebron Easter-day in Jerusalem Mosques of Omar and El-Aksa 97 CHAPTER X. Departure from Jerusalem. Jaffa Beyrout Tripoli Alexandrette . . . . . . . . 109 CHAPTER XI. Smyrna Constantinople 125 CHAPTER XII. Departure from Constantinople, and Return to England 141 IX PAGE. CHAPTER XIII. Review in Edinburgh Lakes of Cumberland Return to Canada 157 APPENDIX. Pacific Railroad 169 PREFACE The following pages have been prepared at different intervals, in the active pursuit of mercantile occupations, from hurried notes taken on the spot, and from letters penned to members of my family when I was travel- ling in the East. They are not intended to supply the infor- mation usually sought for in ordinary Hand- books, but, as I have elsewhere remarked, to shew how so much ground can be gone over, and how so many interesting places may be visited, during a short period of relaxation, even by overwrought men of business; and Xll all this, with instruction to the mind and im- proved health to the body. This is a point which I am particularly anxious the candid reader should keep con- stantly in view. I so thoroughly enjoyed the trip and derived such benefit from it, that the primary and ultimate object of publishing this brief outline of my movements, and of the impressions of the scenes visited, is to induce my many friends in Canada and other parts of British North America, similarly circumstanced, to try the effect of a like expedition. Although I readily acquiesced with many other pilgrims to Palestine, that the Bible is the best hand-book to the Holy Land, and preferred visiting the interesting scenes with- out any other; yet I have since perused, with great satisfaction and pleasure, " Murray's Hand-book to Syria," a most complete and delightful work of the kind, composed by the Xlll Kev. J. L. Porter, with the pen of a Christian, a scholar and a gentleman : it is a book which ought to be in every one's library. To more than one kind friend I am greatly indebted for several corrections and valuable suggestions ; and, at their recommendation, I have omitted or abridged much which might have pleased my immediate and personal friends, but could not have interested the general reader. The lithographs have been executed in Montreal by Mr. Little of Notre-Dame street, and speak for themselves; they are taken from drawings (the one of Jerusalem excepted) which have never been published, and were presented by kind friends. To Mr. Sloane, the intelligent Superin- tendent of Mr. Loveirs office, I am much indebted for many valuable hints; and the book being altogether a Canadian publica- XIV tion, I rely with confidence on the kindness and candour of all who may peruse it. I hope, also, that I may be excused for my digression, at the Isthmus of Suez, on the subject of a Western route to Asia: the topic has always been an especial favorite of mine, and the occasion was too captivating to be resist. I have thrown into an Appendix some details, contained in a speech delivered at the public dinner given to Lord Bury, some few years ago, on the occasion of his visit to Quebec. ftllSTtATMMl PAGE. JERUSALEM. Frontispiece. GIBRALTAR, 11 THE SPHINX . 56 TOMBS OF THE CALIPHS, 58 CHAPTER I. KEASONS FOE PUBLISHING. SOME DETAILS OF THE VOYAGE FROM PORTLAND TO ENGLAND, IN THE "HUNGARIAN," AND THENCE TO GIBRALTAR. When I left Quebec about the middle of January, last year, for the purpose of revisiting Europe, and subsequently prosecuting my wanderings eastward, no idea could be more remote from my mind than that of publishing an account of my proceedings. A trip to the eastern shores of the Mediterranean, and to view those sacred and time-hallowed scenes, where so many events of deep interest have occurred blended with the destinies of mankind, had formed, from early years, one of the most warmly- cherished wishes of my heart ; and it was with no slight degree of satisfaction that I found myself enabled to gratify this desire. 2 It has been already hinted, in the dedication, that one, in fact, nearly the sole motive for the publication of these few pages, is to set before others the com- parative ease and moderate expenditure, with which a trip to the East may be accomplished ; and to induce, perhaps, many in these Provinces to take advantage of any similar period of leisure. The following hasty sketches have, therefore, been reproduced at the suggestion of several of my friends, who expressed themselves gratified by the perusal of the original correspondence, addressed to members of my own family. These notes of travel, issuing from a Canadian press, are more especially intended for circulation in these Provinces ; an indulgent reception may, there- fore, be reasonably anticipated from the Canadian public, inasmuch as I write as a Canadian, in the hope of encouraging others of my fellow-countrymen to follow my example in visiting the same interesting portion of the world. Such an undertaking can hardly be carried out, in the most indifferent manner, without opening the mind and enlarging our estimate of the advantages of liberal government and constitu- tional polity. By such a tour, souvenirs of undying interest may be awakened in the heart, and extend an important influence over the future course of the traveller ; for I certainly realized the saying of the Hebrew monarch, according to the motto placed on the title-page, " The desire accomplished is sweet to the soul." In the month of January, I proceeded by railway from Quebec to Portland, attended by my two daughters, and accompanied, as far as the latter place, by my son and his wife, and my kind friend, Colonel Rhodes. We embarked on board the ocean steamship " Hungarian," one of the most powerful and excellent of the Canadian Line ; and the voyage, on which we entered, was fated to be the last she made in safety. Voyages from the American continent to England during winter are generally very rapid ; north and north-westerly winds usually prevail and blow in frequent gales. I have repeatedly crossed the Atlan- tic in December and January, but I do not remember having ever experienced such terrific weather as on this voyage. When we approached the Irish coast, the north-wester, which had been driving us so fiercely as to prevent a stitch of canvas being shewn, compelled us to lay to ; for, although under very little steam, we were carried along at the rate of about fourteen knots an hour, and had shipped some very heavy seas. By one of these, considerable damage was done to the wheel-house, a boat was carried away, and the bulwarks were greatly injured; b2 the water dashed through the pantry, sweeping off with it plates, dishes, covers and crockery of every kind, smashed the lamps in the cabin, and flooded it with water. It was very impressive to hear the dead, rumbling noise of the body of water, as it poured down the gangways, and covered the floors of our cabins to the depth of one or two feet. Such confidence, however, had we in the strength of the vessel, that we felt little uneasiness ; and when I ascertained that my daughters were not seriously alarmed, I became still more at ease, and looked to see what was to be done in my own cabin. Trunks, carpet-bags and hat- boxes were moving about in the water ; I jumped up and secured them, as well as I could, and on the whole was no great sufferer ; but my friends, Symes and Roberts, were not so fortunate, the former espe- cially, as every thing he had was injured or ruined. After three or four hours incessant bailing, in which nearly all the passengers assisted, the water was got rid of, and the floors were wiped tolerably dry. During this dreadful night, our gallant commander, Captain Jones, and Mr. Nash, the lieutenant in charge of the mails, were heard speaking aloud and cheerfully ; their words and the sound of their voices tended to dispel fear, and imparted courage to all. The violence of the storm abated next morning, and the vessel's head was again turned towards Cape Clear. It cannot be out of place here to mention that the steamer " Scamander" foundered, during the same gale, in the Bay of Biscay, and that many other casualties occurred, although the storm did not reach the coast. The appearance of the saloon, at other times so gay and comfortable, was certainly, on that eventful morning, most wretched. I remember well that, as I walked with Captain Jones on the deck, in the course of the afternoon, he pointed out to me a board, which had been left from the boat washed away in the night. This board had the name of the steamer upon it, and he rather exultingly remarked, that, if the boat were picked up, no one would be able to tell that it belonged to the " Hungarian." Little did he think, poor fellow, that during her next voyage, the gallant ship would disappear with himself and every soul on board, without leaving a vestige- behind except the boats which were washed ashore. We called at Queenstown, but remained only long enough to land the mails. Proceeding to our port of destination, we arrived in Liverpool on the thirteenth morning after our departure from Portland ; and I was soon comfortably settled, with my daughters, 6 under the hospitable roof of my kind friend, Mr, Saunders, of Fullwood, where we soon forgot the discomforts of the sea in the right-hearty welcome which we received from our host and all his house- hold. It is apart from my present purpose to enter into any details connected with my sojourn in England. It may suffice to say that, after passing a few weeks with my sister, at Fritwell, Oxfordshire, I engaged a passage in the u Delta," one of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamships (or the P. and 0., as they are always called), and sailed from Southampton in February. I was unaccompanied by any friend ; and although, on starting, my position seemed sad and lonely, yet 1 am not certain whether it may not be, on the whole, the best way of travelling. In many instances, where several or even two or three persons travel together, differences of opinion and consequent circumstances of annoyance will arise ; one may wish to remain only one day at a certain place, while another wishes to prolong his visit. Unless, therefore, a traveller can obtain a friend, who is prepared to proceed with him without hesita- tion, like an "alter ego" it is better to run the chance of falling in with companions, here and there on the way, than to bind one's self down to those, who, from difference of taste or inequality of temper and spirits, may make the journey disagreeable, and mar the chief object in view, of which, in fact, I saw many instances. I fortunately soon discovered among the passengers my old friend Butts, who had lately exchanged from the Canadian Rifles into the Buffs, then at Malta ; and I at once found myself no longer an out-sider, as he knew many on board, and gladly introduced me. At length, we were on the move, and passed close to the "Great Eastern;" but so great a gale began, as we proceeded on our way to the Channel, that we were glad to anchor at the Needles. Next morning we ventured out, but the gale con- tinued, and Captain Black deemed it prudent to make for Portland, where we remained twenty-four hours ; and we could hardly regret the opportunity which we thus enjoyed of estimating the value of the works now in progress at this important point. These, when completed, will make Portland, in Eng- land, as secure a harbour by art, as its namesake in the new world is by nature. The fortifications will certainly be exceedingly effective ; and there can be little doubt that this harbour will become, in the course of a few years, one of the most important in the kingdom. 8 On the following morning, the sea was so smooth that it was difficult to imagine how so great a change could be effected in so short a space of time. We accordingly proceeded on our voyage with improved spirits, and under more favorable prospects. We had on board the "Delta" about one hundred and twenty passengers ; nearly one-half of these were lads, fresh from Addiscombe, or other schools and colleges, on their way to India. On viewing their ruddy and healthy looks, and witnessing their buoyant spirits and ardent anticipations, it was impos- sible to forbear from reflecting how soon their rude health and sound northern constitutions might be shattered from the enervating effects of a tropical cli- mate, and the debilitating nature and customs of the country to which they were bound. The other half of the passengers consisted of officers, on their way to Gibraltar and Malta, or of gentlemen who travelled in search of health, amuse- ment or instruction. Of the latter, there was one between whom and myself was soon established a sort of freemasonry, though neither of us belonged to the craft ; but our feelings and tastes were congenial. He was greatly crushed in spirit, and was on his way to the East, seeking to soothe, by travel and change of scene, feelings which had been, he said, painfully excited. I pointed out to him the following- remarks, by the author of Eothen : " Strange that so " many should go annually to the East, for change of " scene, occasioned by occurrences such as this ; but " I think there is something so seductive in visiting " Palestine, that I do not wonder at one's trying there, " if treading the land, so memorable in the world's " annals, were a sovereign cure to the mind diseased ; " though, in many cases, the cure may be but tem- " porary, and end with the excitement." My friend admitted that the cause of his journey was exactly similar ; but, he said, he had never seen Kinglake's talented work, and was surprised his own case should have been so graphically described. Many, like myself, were travelling for relaxation and amusement ; altogether the company was very agreeable, and the successive days of the voyage passed rapidly away. The Bay of Biscay was (which it seldom is in February) in its blandest mood ; and so unruffled was its surface, that a bark-canoe might have glided over it. We soon found ourselves within sight of land, passed Ointra at no great distance, and had an excellent view of the Rock of Lisbon and the mouth of the Tagus ; but the whole extent of the coast of Portugal is classic ground. Cape St. Vincent and the Bay of Trafalgar excited emotions of no 10 ordinary nature ; nor was it possible with indifferent feelings to pass places, the names of which have been familiar to our most interesting historical associations. It now began to blow a strong Levanter ; and as this wind had prevailed for several days, we did not meet with as many vessels as we otherwise would have done. The war between the Spaniards and M oors was then at its height ; but all the vessels of the former, which, with the transports, made a large fleet, were in the Bay of Gibraltar, under the guns of Algeziras. Seven days had elapsed, since we left Southampton, when we dropped anchor ; and the first stage of my progress from England to the East was over. We had reached the far-famed Pillars of Hercules. CHAPTER II. GIBKALTAK We were all on deck early next morning, and, although the weather was dull and rainy, every one was cheerful and buoyant with expectation. As I gazed on the stronghold before us, the south-western gate of Spain, and the key of the Mediterranean, I was, in many respects, forcibly reminded of our own good city, Quebec. Gibraltar, it is true, is four times higher than Cape Diamond ; but the importance of their site is similar, the rock of either equally abrupt, each commanding views of the greatest beauty and magnificence. The scenery surrounding Quebec, as viewed from the Grand Bat- tery, the Durham Terrace, and other such points, is familiar to most of my Canadian readers. At oribraltar, the coast of Spain, with the towns of San Roque and Algeziras, is close at hand ; while 12 in the distance, the shores of Africa, with the Atlantic on the one side, and the blue waters of the Mediter- ranean on the other, make up the picture, and a lovely one it is ; for in the Bay, at your feet, are the fleets of England and Spain the war between the latter and Morocco being then actively carried on ; there were also several men-of-war belonging to France, Austria, and the United States. The Levanter, mentioned in the previous chapter, had been blowing for weeks ; and had detained in the Bay, under the guns of Algeziras, upwards of a hundred vessels, principally transports, temporarily in the service of Spain, and all about to proceed, on the first change of wind, in the operations against Tangier, Tetuan having been taken a short time previous to our arrival. Boats without number were alongside of the "Delta" at break of day, and, the sea being very rough, we had to tack about for three-quarters of an hour before we landed at the market-place ; and when we did land, what a Babel met our ears ! Soldiers and sailors, muleteers and water-carriers ; Arabs, with their unmistakeable physiognomy ; Moors, with their well- developed forms, snow-white turbans, jabadores of scarlet cloth, white undergarments, and bedeyas rich with gold wrapped in their national plaid, the haik, 13 held in much esteem by them from the earliest period of their history ; a few of their (the Moors') ancient opponents, Spanish soldiers, in uniform ; and Jews innumerable, who had fled from Morocco on account of the barbarous treatment several of their number had received from the Mohammedans. Everything seemed so novel, that you at once felt you had, in reality, entered the portals of the East. Nearly all the Jews I met here had fled terror- stricken from their homes. They embarked at the different Moorish ports in hundreds, abandoning everything they possessed, and arrived at Gibraltar in a state of utter destitution. Many young women and children, among the fugitives, had no other shelter than the canopy of heaven, and numbers had not even food to eat. His Excellency Sir William Codrington headed the Christian community in their charitable efforts, actively aided by a Committee of the Jewish residents, formed for the purpose of afford- ing relief to their unfortunate brethren. His Excel- lency caused tents to be erected on the parade-ground, for their accommodation, and bread and meat to be distributed among the necessitous, who numbered nearly two thousand. Sir William and Lady Cod- rington's sympathy with these destitute sufferers was beyond all praise, and will ever endear them to this scattered race. 14 I have no wish or intention to give particular des- criptions of the places I have visited, which are accurately detailed in Murray and Bradshaw's hand* books ; my object, in fact, in extending my rough notes, is to show Canadians how much may be achieved in a limited period, and at a time when so many can leave the Province without great incon* venience. From January to May will suffice, and from thirty to forty shillings a-day will enable one to travel as a first-class passenger. Steamboat fares in the Mediterranean are very high; and, as an instance, I may mention, I paid twenty pounds from Constan- tinople to Marseilles, embracing some five or six days. It is Shenstone, I believe, who makes an observa- tion, in verse, which I have seen often quoted : " Whoe'er has travelled life's dull round. Where'er his stages may have been, May sigh to think, he oft has found The warmest welcome at an Inn." Now, I allude to this, not to complain of my recep- tion any where, but to show the difference between mine host in England and in the East, or on the Continent, where a traveller arrives and is allowed to depart with the utmost indifference. In Gibraltar I found things, in this respect, much worse than any where else. The Club House was 15 full; and (with great difficulty) I succeeded in obtain- ing a miserable bed-room in the next best hotel, where every thing looked so uncomfortable, that I antici- pated my week at the "Bock" would be the reverse of pleasant The garrison was very numerous, con- sisting of six or seven thousand men, with a large portion of Artillery. I soon found my way to the quarters of the 100th, and dined at mess with the officers, Canada being of course the chief subject of conversation. On my return to the hotel (tavern would be a more appropriate name), I found a most kind and pressing invitation from His Excellency Sir William Codrington, to take up my quarters forthwith "at the Convent," the name given to the residence of the Governor, or rather the name that has never changed since it was the abode of the religious recluse in days long gone bye. One night at the hotel had been one of such misery, that I was but too glad to accept the proffered kindness ; and the removal from such a place to the residence of the Governor was as delightful as alighting on an oasis in the desert must be to the wearied traveller. In the rear of the Government House there is a handsome quadrangular court, full of orange and citron trees with flowering shrubs ; there were, also, 16 some very beautiful pepper trees, which I had never before seen, and which were not unlike the acacia. With rooms opening into the court on one side, and with a large and beautiful garden on the other, I found myself most agreeably domiciled, while the hospitable kindness of Sir William and Lady Cod- rington made me feel quite at home. They had been stationed in former years in Quebec, and they made me at once feel as if I were among Canadian friends. The fortifications, I need hardly say, are as strong as art and nature can combine to make them. A walk through the galleries, bristling with cannon, presents such an imposing sight as one can hardly have an opportunity of seeing in any other fortified place. The galleries are large roads or passages, cut in a zig-zag form in the solid rock, with apertures every here and there, large enough to admit the planting of cannon ; such indeed, in my opinion, are the strength and security of the works, that not even rifled cannon could be brought to bear with any marked impression. Famine alone can, I think, ever remove the meteor flag of England from this great stronghold, which the authorities at home are annu- ally strengthening, and seem to know well its value ; although there are political economists who would hand it over to Spain to-morrow, alleging that the 17 cost of maintenance and fortification is more than it is worth. The agreeableness of my brief sojourn in Gibraltar was much enhanced by the kind attentions of Colonel Maberly of the Artillery, Col. Fane of the 25th, and Mr. Carpenter of the Commissariat, who had been many years in Quebec ; and also, by Col. Dunn and by the officers of the 100th Regiment, who gave me a most cordial welcome. Their Colonel, the Baron de Rottenburgh, was even kind enough to order the Regiment to parade, so that I might be a witness of their proficiency, and report well of them on my return to Canada; and assuredly a more soldierly- looking set of men I have seldom seen. It is well-known that almost every man in the 100th is either a native of Canada, or has been a resident in the Province ; and when they were raised, in 1858, it was generally believed that the regiment would at once join the army in India ; but, after a year or two in England, peace came, and many who were all anxiety to see active service, and " seek the bubble reputation even in the cannon's mouth," now regret that they are doomed to dull routine in a Garrison town. When the regiment was raised, a general opinion prevailed in Canada, that the Provincial Legislature would have conferred some testimonial, 18 some special grant or mark of distinction on this regiment, for the purpose of keeping alive the cher- ished associations originally subsisting between the men and this important portion of the empire, where it was formed. But, through some cause or other, nothing has yet been done. Measures have however lately been taken to give the Canadian public an opportunity of promoting this laudable object ; and I shall, indeed, feel gratified if my casual visit to Gibraltar should prove the means of accelerating the completion of an act of but bare justice. A handsome piece of plate for the mess, something for that of the non-commissioned officers, and a library for the men, might be procured by an easy effort in either section of the Province, If a library should be at variance with the regulations of the army, the half of the money collected might be funded, and the interest expended in the purchase of periodicals, newspapers, cricket-balls, &c, &c. In- deed, I am strongly inclined to believe that an annual amount, so applied, would be better calculated to keep alive, for years and years, the kindred ties and associations, which should ever exist between the regiment and Canada. The presentation of a large library, all at once, may be accompanied by several disadvantages. The 19 books are soon worn out and disfigured by constant use, and a considerable expense entailed in its removal from station to station ; indeed, the larger it might become, the greater would this difficulty be felt. The military authorities very properly have estab- lished a recruiting party in the Province ; and such is the love of adventure, and the desire to see foreign parts, that there is no difficulty in getting men, who prefer sixpence a-day, with the chance of seeing the world, to four or five shillings daily wages for ordinary or farm labour ; and it must not be forgotten, how- ever, that the term of military service being now limited, the soldier's life is far less hopeless than it was many years ago. u Gib.," as military men usually call it, seems, on the whole, a favorite station ; though I heard a good deal of ennui being a prevalent complaint. There is very little general society, apart from the military ; and rides in the country are confined to the cork- woods, and a few Spanish towns in the immediate neighbourhood. There is, however, a pack of hounds kept up ; and, while I was there, the theatre was open, the company consisting of a party of Zouaves, who had been in the Crimea. One favorite piece was "A Surprise by the Russians on the Corps Dramatique." This was the representa- 02 20 tion of an occurrence, which actually took place in the midst of some fine acting, and had been attended with the loss of life. Some of the Zouaves were attired as ladies, with a profusion of crinoline ; and were compelled, in the midst of a most touching scene, to throw aside their flaming red-petticoats, and seize their muskets, the effect of which was very laughable, though no joke at the time. The house was poorly attended ; the taste for theatricals being as dull at Gibraltar as in any other part of the English world. A great change has taken place certainly, in this respect, since the days of good Queen Bess ; late dinner-hours have had much to do, I suspect, in effecting this state of things more, in fact, than many would be willing to allow. The streets in Gibraltar, or I should rather say the street, is very narrow ; but, at all hours of the day, it is full of people. The gardens, walks and drives, between the Almeida and Buropa Point, are very beautiful, and produce on the stranger the most de- lightful impression of the far-famed Mountain of Tank. The name of Gibraltar is well-known to be a corruption of Jebel-Tarik, the Arabic conqueror of that part of Spain. It was not one of the least interesting circum- stances attending my brief stay, that I should be 21 lodged in the very house in which the brave old General Elliott resided during the memorable siege, which he so gallantly and successfully maintained against the floating batteries of Spain. In the dining- room, his portrait and those of many of his com- panions in arms are to be seen, in the quaint, old style of the last century. When in the East, I was particularly fortunate in point of weather, having experienced but two wet days, one at Gibraltar, which enabled me to read Drinkwater's account of the siege, for he was there all the time and kept a regular journal daily. Although a little too minute, I found its perusal particularly attractive, having at the time every spot in view. After a week's most pleasant residence, I bade adieu to Gibraltar ; and as Sir William was kind enough to accompany me on board the "Kipon," and introduce me to Captain Christian, I was soon as much at home, among the passengers, as my fortunate meeting with Butts made me in the "Delta f and the following day, I found a distant connexion of my own on board, and Mr. and Mrs. Gordon, of Charles- ton, near neighbours of my sisters in Scotland. CHAPTER III. MALTA. Sunday morning found us on the blue waters of the Mediterranean ; and, about noon, we had a very beautiful view of the lofty mountain range of Anda- lusia, the Sierra Nevada, some of the peaks of which are upwards of twelve or thirteen thousand feet high, and are covered with perpetual snow. We sailed along the coast of Algeria, and passed the site of ancient Carthage, at a great distance, however. On the third day we had a close view of Pantellaria, the island prison of Naples for political offenders ; and it is not difficult to conceive the de- light, which must have pervaded this isolated spot, when the intelligence of Garibaldi's exploits an- nounced that the prison-doors would soon be open. , We reached Malta on Thursday; the great strength of which and its commanding position in the Medi- 24 terranean have made its possession of importance to its many successive masters the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Eomans, Goths, Saracens, Knights of Malta, and, last of all, the British, who are thus enabled to maintain an ascendancy over "the glad waters of the dark- blue sea." The Reverend Mr. Murray, of Jersey, who had taken his passage for Malta, for the benefit of his health, was induced by me to be my companion for Palestine ; and to his great biblical learning and general intelligence I am indebted for much informa- tion, and many valuable hints, which might otherwise have escaped my observation. We landed very early in the morning ; and before breakfasting at Durnford's Hotel (a most excellent one), we visited the fortifications, and the far-famed Church of St. John, in which are separate chapels for each language of the Knights Hospitallers. The church, as a whole, is certainly a grand edifice ; although the facade is inferior in beauty to what I had anticipated, and a certain degree of heaviness pervades the whole building. The graves of the Knights are under the pavement of the church, and many of them are covered with rich mosaics, in marble, jasper and agate. Although the Temple Church in London, is far inferior in size, I much pre- 25 fer it, and it has always been an especial favorite with me ; it belonged, as every body knows, to the order of Knight Templars. We visited the Palace, the residence of the Governor, a large structure without any preten- sions to architectural beauty. The interior, however, is interesting, especially the armoury a very long apartment, full of all kinds of warlike implements, ancient and modern. Along the middle of the room, at regular distances, there are suits of armour, worn in different ages by the gallant knights, looking like so many soldiers on duty, and all wearing the badge of the famous order the white cross on a red field. The edifices, however, which interested me most, were the various auberges : these were inns, or rather palaces, erected for different classes of the Hospitallers, according to their respective origin and languages ; and they are in appearance very magnificent structures. They had been, in fact, the " Clubs" of the Knights of Malta ; and little could their gallant founders have anticipated that, in this year of grace, they would be used as officers' quarters, mess-houses, printing offices, and private residences. The appearance of the town is very striking ; the main street, which is about the only one deserving 26 the name, is rather narrow ; hut in it are many fine and noble buildings, with balustrades opening from the windows, and jutting out so as rather to disfigure the street. The town is very hilly, and flights of steep steps branch off the main street, with houses on either side. The population is very large, and the whole town presented a most oriental scene. We walked round the fortifications, and from the walls of Valetta were much pleased with the view of the town and surrounding country ; although there was little verdure to enliven the latter, the whole surface, as far as the eye could reach, being nothing but rock, with endless terraces to keep the little earth from being washed away in the season of the heavy rains. The harbour, with its numerous creeks, is a very fine one, and certainly one of the safest in the world ; it is crowded with shipping of all kinds, from the proud man-of-war of seventy-four down to the Maltese skiff ; and, viewed from the glacis, it is a very lively picture. In one respect, I was particularly fortunate in my visit to the East, for everywhere I escaped quaran- tine, that bane of travelling ; and nowhere is it more galling to the traveller, when in force, than in Malta, which is densely populated, and where the dread of 27 contagion is consequently so great. If the report that the cholera has made its appearance in (xibraltar be correct, there is little doubt the different lazarettos, throughout the whole Mediterranean, will soon be crowded with impatient travellers. The Maltese are, generally speaking, a fine set of men, strong and robust, and not unlike our Indians ; and are generally allowed to be of Moorish extraction. The dress, both of men and women, is very becom- ing, even although the hoop has not yet made its appearance among the latter ; perhaps by the time it does, the oriental veil (the onnella), or head-dress derived therefrom, and for ages peculiar to Malta, may be seen adorning the heads of our ladies, in place of the ugly bonnet, now in vogue. Before leaving, we visited the Convent of the Capuchins, and, on descending to the vaults, were shown the withered remains of monks, who died long, long ago, and of others, who more recently have " shuffled off this mortal coil." These latter were in every stage of decay and decomposition, and were nailed up in niches in the walls, dressed in full canonicals, the faces only exposed to view, a most revolting sight, and one I do not recommend others to look at ; although such is the morbid feeling in many, that this show will always prove an important source of revenue to the brotherhood. The monk, 28 who acted as our guide, pointed out, with no small degree of complacency, the niche intended for himself, when the King of Terrors would call him away. I was sorry that time did not permit my visiting St. Paul's Bay the spot where the great Apostle of the Gentiles landed. Many contend, from the word " Adria" in the 27th verse of the 27th chapter of the Acts of the Apostles, as well as from other reasons, that a small island in the Adriatic, is the Melita of the Acts ; but I think tradition, combined with arguments, even more forcible and with strong con- current testimony, proves Malta to have been the island on which the Apostle was wrecked. On the fourth day from Malta, we reached Alexan- dria, without the occurrence of anything remarkable. The approach to this old, and once so celebrated city, is very narrow and circuitous, but could easily be made straight ; yet, such is the dread of European powers, that the Turk deems it safer to leave the entrance a matter of difficulty, and one that could bp easily made dangerous. Pompey's Pillar, in the distance, was long discernible before entering the harbour of this great entrepot. On passing the Pacha's steamship, we lowered our colours to the Crescent ; and, from the deck, the mosques and minarets told us that we had reached the East. CHAPTER IV. EGYPT ALEXANDRIA SUEZ. The steamer was soon surrounded by boats, full of most importunate boatmen. So great, in fact, was their anxiety to secure the luggage of the passengers, that they considered they had a right to it, and to insist on the owner taking a passage with the suc- cessful possessor of his goods and chattels. At length we were enabled to bid adieu to the " Ripon," and were soon landed at the custom-house wharf. Annoying as the squabbling of the boatmen un- doubtedly was, it was nothing to that with which we were assailed on stepping ashore. About two hundred squalid-looking wretches, dressed so sparingly that their tailors would not make a fortune, immediately began to fight for our baggage, although the whole only consisted of a dozen portmanteaux and carpet- bags, belonging to our party of three. However, we 30 contrived to work our way to the custom-house, where our trunks were to be examined ; and, assur- edly, if Alexandria is behind the age in many things, it may boast of simplicity and intelligibility in the carrying out of its customs' regulations. " Master, you give me your keys, or you give me sixpence," was an appeal which we could easily understand ; and the demand was so moderate, that we were glad to avoid the delay which a search would have entailed. "Backsheesh" is the first word that greets the ear of a stranger, on his arrival in Egypt or Turkey, and the last that is heard on his departure ; in sooth, it is still tingling in my ears. It was now fiercely reiter- ated by the fellows who carried our luggage, but a shilling among the twelve sent them away rejoicing : indeed, it is scarcely credible what a man will do there for a penny. "Backsheesh" is demanded on every possible occasion, in every direction, and at every turning. It is not merely asked as alms (the literal meaning of the word), but it is sought or exacted, in a good-humoured way, as a legitimate present ; and travellers are too frequently apt to lose their temper at the pertinacity with which it is demanded. I asked a friend for the Arabic of " to-morrow," boucra, which I laughingly used, and thus easily escaped ; while some of my friends, 31 who answered peevishly or angrily, were assailed with fresh and unceasing importunity. On the arrival of a stranger in Alexandria, he cannot fail to be forcibly struck with the motley sights which first meet his eyes: camels are seen, slowly wending their way along the narrow, dirty streets ; donkeys innumerable, almost the sole means of conveyance ; women, shuffling along, with their faces covered so as to leave the eyes only exposed ; Nubians, black as jet ; Copts and Arabs .; Turks, smoking their chibouques, and every man you meet in the streets with a cigar or cigarette in his mouth ; children, carried astride on their mothers' shoulders (no wonder the Arabs are good horsemen), with their little faces bare, and so covered with flies that the traveller no longer wonders at the prevalency of ophthalmia. After a short stay at the hotel, we proceeded to visit Pompey's Pillar, which did not, in any respect, equal my expectation or pre-conceived ideas, founded on descriptions given in books. Cleopatra's Needle was the next object of inspection ; and it was evident, at first sight, that this celebrated column has been greatly damaged by exposure to the winds and weather. We afterwards went to the palace of the Pacha ; the building has an imposing appearance from 32 a distance, but, on a nearer approach, it is found (as everything else in this crumbling counfry) in a decayed and still further decaying condition. In the streets of this and all other cities of the East, women, except of the lower orders, are seldom met with. The dress of these consists merely of a blue linen shirt, and an upper garment of muslin thrown over the head. The face, with the exception of the eyes, is entirely concealed ; but, in this respect, females of the higher class, when you do meet them, have introduced a marked change, for the muslin now worn is so thin, that the features are plainly discernible. Many women stain their lips a blue colour, and blacken their nails and part of their hands with the leaves of the henna tree. Upon the whole, I cannot say that I remember seeing a pretty face among the females of the land, or a countenance that excited even passing admiration. The city of Alexandria, in its present condition, woefully disappoints the least sanguine traveller. I could not help thinking it one of the most dull and uninteresting places I had ever seen. The contrast between the modern town and the far-famed city, founded by the Macedonian conqueror, extended and embellished under the Ptolemies, produces disap- pointment and depression of spirits ; even if great 33 allowance is made for exaggeration in the current statement, that ancient Alexandria contained three millions of inhabitants, and had a street of palaces two miles in length ! With a record before us of the fall and decay of the great empires of the world, we find it difficult for the mind to realize the extent of the change that has taken place on this most highly-favored site. After the occupation of a busy day, I enjoyed a sound sleep in my quarters in the hotel; but my companions, Mr. Murray, and a youngster of the name of Denny, who was travelling with him, made their appearance, the following morning, in a most pitiable plight. They could not say, with any degree of certainty, whether they had suffered greater in- fliction from the fleas or mosquitos ; but they had passed a night of excruciating torture, and, every now and then, I heard some exclamation about the plagues of Egypt ! We left Alexandria early in the day, amid a deluging shower of rain, which quite satisfied us, not- withstanding the trite remarks of geographical text- books, that it never rains in Egypt ; but this applies more particularly to Upper Egypt. During the summer I have seen it, in Canada, pour down some- times very respectably ; but the storm of rain which 34 fell, on our leaving Alexandria, was such as can never be washed from the memory. After a two miles drive we reached the railway, and at nine were fairly on our way to Cairo. On entering the railway- carriage, we found almost every seat occupied. I got a place next to one of the descendants of the Prophet, easily distinguished by his rich fur cloak, and otherwise elaborate dress, and by the green turban (the badge of his descent). He looked like his countryman in Aleppo, alluded to by Othello, " a malignant and a turban'd Turk," with an eye (you may see its fellow in a menagerie) expressive of intense hatred. He scowled on me with absolute ferocity ; and although he spoke in Arabic, it was easy to conceive that the words uttered implied some such complimentary salutation as "Dog of an infidel ! what dost thou here ?" During the whole of our journey to Cairo, he continued to mutter expressions, no doubt equally flattering. I offered him a cigar, in the hope of propitiating him, but he drew back haughtily, as if the offer were an insult : so I left him to himself, and made a passing acquaintance with some Egyptian officers, who spoke a little French, and who were moving about on duty. Except in the case just mentioned, I always found that a cigar, courteously offered, was a sure introduction to friendly feeling. 85 It was in the railway- carriage that I first wit- nessed the punctilious devotion of the followers of Mahommed ; five times a- day do they turn towards Mecca, prostrating themselves on their knees, pray- ing earnestly ; and, every now and then, touching the ground with their foreheads, springing and stand- ing upright, they then resume the kneeling posture. What a lesson to us, who pride ourselves on being Christians ! Go into any of our churches, and see how few will condescend to bend the knee ; while engaged in prayer, how few will kneel ! I speak exclusively of men ; from woman we have a bright example, in this respect, and should follow it. About noon, we reached the Nile ; and then we felt that we were indeed in the land of the Bible, which is, after all, here as in Palestine, the best hand- book for the Christian traveller. Cold must that heart be, which swells not with emotion, when the eye, for the first time, gazes on this renowned river, the waters of which were turned into blood, and its banks became the scene of so many miracles and wonders ; and, add to this, we were now in the land where our Saviour passed a short time when an infant. From the windows of the railway-carriage we be- held something new every moment : long strings of camels, numerous villages of mud-houses, the inha- d2 36 bitants of which appeared to live in a most destitute condition. Every where we saw mills for the eleva- tion of water, for the purposes of irrigation, worked sometimes by oxen, sometimes by asses, and even by cows, but more frequently by men. The Pyramids now appeared upon the scene, looking more striking in the distance, than when more nearly approached. During the afternoon we passed the land of Goshen, and arrived at Cairo at about seven in the evening. On alighting, we were surprised to observe the number of passengers not less than three hundred. The noise and uproar of the donkey-boys was most extra- ordinary, passing even the chattering of women when congregated together ; at length we found our way to Shepherd's well-known hotel a magnificent building, which formerly belonged to the Pacha, and covers several acres of land. The entrance-hall is very spa- cious, with passages about twice as broad as the streets of the city. I got a capital bed-room ; and, with English servants in attendance, and a well-supplied table, could not help feeling comfortably at home. Shepherd himself, who has not passed the grand climacteric, has made a large fortune, and has lately purchased an estate in Warwickshire, where he intends to reside. I hope, for the sake of the tourists who may follow me, that his successor will keep as com- 37 fortable a house, as he has made a point of doing, for the benefit of wayfarers at a distance from home. Before inspecting Cairo, and visiting the wonders in its vicinity, we determined to proceed at once to Suez, and obtain our promised glimpse of the Red Sea. Accordingly, we started next morning, at six o'clock, and in the course of half an hour were in the desert, crossing it in nearly the identical route which tradition gives to the children of Israel. Passing over the desert in a comfortable railway-carriage, and at railway speed, dispels in a great measure the poetical feeling associated with reminiscences of the caravan and the camel, going over the ground at the rate of three miles an hour. But who would, now, in these days of rapid transit, prefer going from London and Edinburgh in a post-chaise, or carriage and four, the aristocratic mode of passing between these two capitals a very few years ago ? The desert is seen from the windows of the railway-car, as satisfactorily as can be desired ; for what, in reality, is to be seen ? All is lifeless and herbless, except when, here and there, may be des- cried a string of camels, wending their way, like " Ships of the Desert," as they are called. And yet occasionally, though it is scarcely possible to discern a blade of grass around, the traveller is struck by 38 espying a shepherd, with a large flock of sheep and goats, carefully leading them along, recalling to mind the figurative language of Scripture, in which the Great Shepherd is described as the leader of His people. We were also reminded, in the course of the day, of another scriptural allusion, and, thereby, of the extremely slight change in the customs of the East : we saw " two women grinding at the mill." At every step some text of Scripture is recalled to mind ; and certainly, among my souvenirs of this journey, one of the most agreeable arises from the illustrations, which might be gathered in confirmation of the truthfulness of the Bible. The wind blew a gale, and the sand was like drifting snow, but it did not last long ; otherwise we should have been delayed, as is frequently the case, between Cairo and Suez. We reached Suez at noon, and a short time sufficed to see the miserable mud- huts which compose the town. Shepherd has an excellent house here, as well as at Cairo, situated immediately on the shores of the Red Sea. The spot, to which tradition points as the locality of the passage of the Children of Israel, is at some distance from this site. The Eed Sea is, as every one knows, very long compared with its breadth ; and from Suez it has much the appearance of a river, especially to those who are familiar with the broad St. Lawrence 39 and the rivers of the American continent. But after my introductory remarks, the reader will not expect me to transcribe from hand-books or the polemical treatises of learned writers and travellers, the details connected with the extent or history of this renowned gulf. I promised, in the title-page, to give a glimpse of three memorable seas, and I shall literally fulfil my promise by giving, as I have now done, a bird's- eye view of one of them. CHAPTER V. THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC RAILWAY, versus THE OVERLAND ROUTE. Suez, in itself, is certainly a wretched village, and would not attract more of the public attention than any other small Egyptian town, were it not for the peculiarity of its site, the circumstance of its giving a name to the celebrated Isthmus, which connects Asia and Africa, and more especially, at present, for the attempts which are made towards the accomplish- ment of that great project the construction of a canal to connect the Red Sea with the waters of the Mediterranean. In this respect it assumes consi- derable importance ; and although I do not, by any means, entertain the sanguine opinions expressed by Alison on this exciting topic, yet I cannot resist quoting his eloquent remarks, having a few plain 42 words to add in connection with the subject, and on the selection of the most desirable route from the British Islands to the East. In the twenty-fifth chapter of his History of Europe, the enthusiastic historian has these remarks : " When in the revolution of ages, civilization shall have returned to its ancient cradle, when the desolation of Mahommedan rule shall have ceased, and the light of religion illumined the land of its birth, Egypt will again become one of the great centres of human industry ; the invention of steam will restore the commu- nication with the East to its original channel, and the nation, which shall revive the canal of Suez, and open a direct communi- cation between the Mediterranean and the Red Sea, will pour into its bosom those streams of wealth, which in every age have consti- tuted the principal sources of European opulence. The great Leibnitz, in the time of Louis XIV, addressed to that great monarch a memorial, which is one of the noblest monuments of political foresight : ' Sire, (said he,) it is not at home that you will succeed in subduing the Dutch; you will not cross their dikes, and you will rouse Europe to their assistance. It is in Egypt, that the real blow is to be struck. There you will find the true commercial route to India; you will wrest that lucrative commerce from Holland, you will secure the eternal dominion of France in the Levant, you will fill Christianity with joy.' These ideas, however," (adds the historian,) "were beyond the age; and they lay dormant till revived by the genius of Napoleon." That similar views were, in fact, ardently enter- tained by Napoleon the First, is now a matter of history ; nor is it doubtful that his nephew cherishes 43 like aspirations, and eagerly desires and plans to secure an effectual footing in Egypt. The nature of the desert, intervening between the Eed Sea and the low marshy shores of the Mediterranean, in the vicinity of Alexandria, renders the construction of a canal almost an impossibility, without taking into consideration the immense expenditure, which must, under any circumstances, be incurred. This is the opinion of scientific men, who were sent specially to report upon the practicability of the project. It is certainly impossible to imagine how the quicksand can be mastered. Whether Mr. Lesseppes actually thinks that it may, and sincerely believes that the project is practicable, I will not undertake to assert : he undoubtedly finds the design highly popular in France, and (if we are to judge from the expendi- ture) not altogether unprofitable to himself. It is highly probable that the work will be com- menced in good earnest, for the enterprise enjoys the warm support of the French government. Whe- ther it will be prosecuted with energy, may be reasonably doubted ; but one cannot help thinking, that it is intended as an important political move. Money enough will be spent in order to render some protection to French interests requisite ; and then, on some sudden emergency, before England or Eu- rope can well be aware of what is going on, a French 44 force may be sent to Egypt, as has recently been the case in Syria. And thus, with the Gallic eagles in Algeria, Egypt and Syria, the Mediterranean may, with good reason, come to be styled "a French Lake." From these considerations naturally arises the propriety of arguing a very important question : "Is Egypt the only line of speedy communication with India and the far East? Assuredly the project of forming a continuous line of railway across the northern continent of America, from the shores of the Atlantic to the Pacific, acquires, in such a dis- cussion, a most prominent importance. The comple- tion of such an immense work would bring China, with the eastern coast and islands of Asia, within thirty days of London, Liverpool and Glasgow, even for heavy merchandise ; nor would Calcutta be much farther distant, in point of time, by this route, than it is by the present so-called Overland-route. A Canadian on his travels may be allowed, at such a place as Suez, to enter into a few minute particulars connected with the discussion of this subject : The Jesuits, during their early discoveries in Canada, conceived (it is well-known) the mag- nificent idea, that a western communication by water with Asia would be found to exist in this direction ; 45 and thus, while pursuing their course along the waters of the broad St. Lawrence, they arrived at the expanse, where Ottawa unites with the main Canadian artery, about nine or ten miles above the city of Montreal : they were so convinced of their having fallen in with the desired passage, that they named the place LaCKine, a name which it retains to this day. If this vast idea, which so forcibly struck these zealous explorers, were now to be carried out by railway, instead of water, England might care less anxiously who had predominant possession in the Mediterranean. There would naturally follow a con- siderable saving in the navy estimates, there being fewer fleets to maintain, and the fleet on the Halifax station within ten days' call of the authorities at home. About two years ago, at a public dinner given by some of the leading citizens of Quebec to Lord Bury, who had come from England to British North America, for the promotion of an object in connec- tion with this question, the writer of these pages was one of the Vice-Presidents, and took the opportunity of delivering his views on the subject, in a speech, a report of which will be found in an Appendix, for the perusal of those who take an interest in such matters. Since that time, the very cordial reception given by the citizens of the United States to His Royal Highness the Prince of Wales, on his visit to 46 (-his continent, has made him change his opinion as to the desirability of having an Atlantic and Pacific railroad constructed solely on British territory. For, certainly, it would prove a powerful guarantee, for the general maintenance of peace, to have the British empire and the United States even should there be two or more Confederations in their stead bound together by their united interest in a highway, which might justly be considered as the most important in the world. It seems to me rather extraordinary, that so few public men, in England and Canada, give to this great measure that attention and support which it so eminently appears to deserve. The writer, when President of the Board of Trade in Quebec, signed a petition to the Provincial Legis- lature on the subject, but could not even succeed in getting a committee appointed to report there- upon ; and when in London, last winter, he vainly essayed to induce one or two friends in the House of Commons to bring forward the project, as one worthy of Imperial consideration and support. It certainly might be accomplished, on pledging the value of the results which would accrue from the mineral produce of Columbia and the Principality of Vancouver's Island ; for, undoubtedly, this island, with its excel- lent harbours, its extensive coal-fields, its abundant mineral productions, and other natural advantages, 47 would soon acquire a just title to such a denomina- tion. But so great, in these days, is the dread of public opinion and ridicule, that no member, either in the Provincial or Imperial Legislature, has had the courage to come forward, and introduce the discussion of a measure, fraught with the highest importance to the world. In fact, I am not quite certain, whether the member, to whom the petition was entrusted in our Provincial Parliament, had the hardihood (!) to present it. The distance, still to be spanned over, is great, and the cost would be very formidable in the eyes of most nations ; but, to the British empire and the United States difficulties should vanish, when it is considered that such a highway would give to them the control of the greater part of the trade to the far West and East, and would set the two great branches of the Anglo-Saxon race, in a great mea- sure, beyond or above the influence of European powers in congress. Destined, as they are, to be the great civilizers of the countless masses in India, China, and the adjacent countries, they might well be justified in regarding the completion of the Atlantic and Pacific railway as the great fact of the age. If public men and capitalists in England would seriously turn their attention to this important ques- 48 tion, and boldly look it in the face in all its bearings, they would enter as heartily into the great project as the people of the United States now do. Lord Bury and Judge Haliburton ought to be mentioned with distinction for the attention which they have given to this subject, and for the interest which they have taken in the whole question.* With regard to the expense, the annual saving in the navy estimates, although by no means, at present, a popular consi- deration in England, would (as I have already hinted) cover the outlay. There are, of course, as in all similar undertakings, engineering difficulties in the way, but these cannot be regarded as insur- mountable in the present day. The Report of the party lately sent, under the guidance of Mr. Palisser, to examine the Rocky Mountains and explore the practicable Passes, will be anxiously looked for by those who feel an interest in the subject ; and who should not ? But I begin to fear that even my patient readers will imagine that it is out of place for me, being in the east, to refer so pointedly, and at such length, to the far-west ; yet the subject concerns not only British North America, in all its immense extent, * Since these pages have been in type, an exceedingly good Editorial has appeared in the London Illustrated News, of the 16th February, strongly advocating this great work. 49 and the British Islands themselves, but also the whole Empire, and the world in general. I must, however, admit, that the digression has been rather long ; and I fear that, unless I make haste, the return train from Suez will have started, and I may be left alone in this village of mud-dwellings. When at Suez, I felt a strong desire to proceed to Madras, having a son in the 60th Regiment, then stationed at that Presidency ; but my time was limited, and my visit to India would necessarily have been so short, that the pleasure of meeting would have been sadly counterbalanced by an almost immediate separation. CHAPTER VI. RETURN TO CAIRO THE PYRAMIDS. The Egyptian railway is admirably managed, and has a neat and clean appearance, the sleepers being of iron, instead of wood, as usual. The speed attained over the one hundred and forty-two miles, stoppages included, averages about twenty miles an hour. The engineers are mostly Scotch, though occasionally a native may be seen on duty, an arrangement calcu- lated to excite an unpleasant feeling. It is in con- templation to carry on the railway towards Aden, at the mouth of the Red Sea ; this would shorten the overland-route, and lessen the time now required, by four or five days, besides avoiding the risk incurred in navigating the gulf, from coral-reefs of great extent. ^On our arrival at Shepherd's excellent hotel, we were enabled to make arrangements for starting, the R2 52 following morning, on a visit to the Pyramids. Ac- cordingly after an early breakfast, Mrs. Gordon, Mr. Murray, young Denny and myself, went together, in a carriage, to old Cairo. On the way we passed the spot where (as tradition hands down) the infant Moses was taken from among the bulrushes. We crossed the Nile in a ferry, and found donkeys awaiting us on the farther side ; speedily mounting, we were off at a gallop, accompanied by Arab boys, shouting most vociferously, and, every here and there, making a fresh rush on us for backsheesh. We speedi- ly crossed the wood of palm-trees, and were soon on the spacious plain, where the great battle of the Pyramids was fought in 1798, and where the M amelukes were so completely routed. The words addressed by Napoleon to his troops, before the engagement, occur- red to our minds as singularly adapted, on such a scene, to inspire his soldiers with more than wonted ardour: "Remember, that, from the summit of these Pyramids, forty centuries contemplate your action !" The Pyramids strike all travellers with feelings of wonder and admiration, which are increased in in- tensity the more nearly these huge monuments are approached. The height of the chief pyramid, ascribed to Cheops, is 477 feet, being 40 feet higher than St. Peter's cupola at Rome, and 133 feet higher than 53 St. Paul's in London, while the length of the base is 720 feet ; of the second pyramid, the perpendicular height is 456 feet, the slanting height 568, and the side of the base 684. These dimensions are larger than have been usually assigned, but this is accounted for from their being taken by Belzoni from the base cleared of the sand and rubbish. "When viewed from the ground, the stones forming the graduated steps seem so small to the gazer up- wards, that a doubt arises in his mind, whether they will be sufficiently large to sustain the point of his shoe. Many visitors are consequently deterred from attempting the ascent ; but suddenly three or four Arabs seize the hesitating adventurer, and urge him upwards in a rather compulsory manner one taking hold of each hand, and one or two pushing behind. The blocks of stone are regular, about three feet deep, and as many wide ; so that persons ascending, on perceiving that the steps do not diminish in size, gradually lose the idea of danger, gain confidence, and, after some twenty minutes of pretty severe exer- cise, reach the top, a plain surface about thirty feet square. From this eminence there is a magnificent and altogether a most interesting view. The Nile, vary- ing in width, is seen meandering through the desert; 54 and it has the appearance of a green snake, with the desert on either side, all dull and dreary. Cairo, with its mosques and minarets, seems to lie at your feet ; the Delta, so famous for its rich and fertile soil, forming the dead level towards the Mediterranean ; the Pyramids of Sakkara ; Memphis, and the Libyan desert are all in sight. The process, however, of being pulled and pushed up by the Arabs, is, after all, not very pleasant, and something more than a joke. They treat the adven- turer under their hands as if he were a bale of goods ; and the wonder is, how he can escape without having his arms dislocated. They all know a little English now-a-days, and are fond of singing. " I have a donkey, and he would not go !" was one of the first exclamations that greeted the ear on our arrival in Alexandria ; but, at the Pyramids, the refrain was : " Englishman very good man, Englishman gentle-man, Backsheesh ! " In fact, backsheesh is their constant cry, ever in their throats and on their lips ; and it is not so wonderful, perhaps, when we take into consideration, that it is their only means of earning a livelihood, or rather their sole resource of raising a revenue. And when they get the traveller to the top of the pyramid, 55 they practise extortion to the utmost; and induce many to give them all the money which they have about them. One would hardly grudge an extra half crown, on the summit of the great pyramid ; but a distinct agreement, previously made through the dragoman, respecting the charge for going up and coming down, will afford sufficient protection ; for there is always a Sheikh, or Head of the tribe, on the spot, and he will prevent imposition and see justice maintained. By whom were the Pyramids built, and for what purpose? These are questions, which do not fall within my present scope ; and they have exercised the ingenuity and learning of ancient sages, as well as of modern philosophers and travellers. The following lines by Kirke White, on this subject, are as strik- ingly apposite, as they are remarkable for their beauty and truth: " Who lies inhumed in the terrific gloom Of the gigantic pyramid ? Or who Reared its huge walls ? Oblivion laughs and says, The prey is mine ; they sleep, and never more Their names shall strike upon the ear of man, Their memory burst its fetters." On approaching the Pyramids, an object is visible, which (on first sight) might be taken for a large boulder. On asking what it might be, I heard, to 56 my surprise, that it was the Sphinx. A feeling of disappointment followed for the moment ; but this wore away as we drew nearer and became more fully aware of its colossal size. The head and shoulders only are seen, and are, to a certain extent, immersed in sand ; and the face is so weather-beaten, that ere long it will be difficult to trace the lineaments. The features, however, are still strongly marked, and are purely Coptic ; so strikingly was this the case, that Mr. Murray could not help remarking, that the little boy, who stood near us with a water-jug, might (as far as likeness was concerned) be justly taken for the sculptured monster's grandson. The little fellow understood English, and immediately cried : " Yes, that is my grandmother !" there certainly was a decided resemblance. On our return to Cairo, we visited the celebrated Mosque of Mahommed Ali, with its large court and its fountains. The mosque is built of alabaster ; and the large court is paved with the same material, inlaid here and there with marble. Near this spot is the Citadel, and likewise the Court where the Mamelukes were massacred. The fearful leap taken by Emir Bey, the sole survivor, is still pointed out ; he escaped, but his gallant charger was killed by the fall. 57 Christians are tolerated, but not welcomed, as visitors in the mosques. Master Denny, of our party, had strayed from us ; and, after some time, I found him sitting cross-legged on the floor, while a fanatical Turk was meditating some signal punishment on the truant ; however, on my reproaching the youngster with the breach of propriety and etiquette, the Turk withdrew. A fortnight afterwards, in the same mosque, a disgraceful outrage was committed by some forty or fifty Englishmen, which was subse- quently commented on in both Houses of Parliament with great severity; and most deservedly so, for such conduct, in addition to other results, would soon render the mosques as difficult of access as they al- ways had been till within the last few years. A Court Martial has been sitting in Calcutta on some of the leaders of this unwarrantable insult ; and doubtless all concerned now lament their having conducted themselves in such an ungentlemanly and scandalous manner on the occasion in question, (4th April, I860,) in mocking and insulting certain dervishes and other worshippers, while engaged in their devotions in this great mosque of Cairo, and in outraging the feelings of the Mahommedan inhabitants of this city, during a religious festival. On our return from the mosque, as it was the first day of their great festival, the Eamadan, we visited, 58 in the course of the evening, a tent, which we had previously seen during the day. A party of dancing dervishes were here exhibiting ; but as some ladies had come with us, a few seconds of the sight sufficed to satisfy their curiosity, and we withdrew. Next day we rode to the Petrified Forest, where the trees wear the appearance of having been quite recently cut ; so white and fresh do the chips look, that one could easily imagine the axe had been used the same morning. On our return, we passed through the tombs of the Caliphs beautiful structures at a distance ; they have been well illustrated by photographs taken on the spot, one of which I am enabled to give. Gracefully Saracenic, in point of architecture, with their domes and minarets, they appear perfectly beautiful till they are reached ; and then a ride through the solitary City of the Dead becomes a melancholy occupation ; for those struc- tures, which seem so fair at a distance, are found crumbling to decay. The domes are covered with elegant tiles, which apparently resist the destroying hand of time, as it spreads desolation around : " data sunt ipsis quoquefata sepulchris" One day, I happened to take luncheon in the tomb lately discovered near the great pyramid of Cheops, and was moralizing on the very inconsistent use made W.i = **-