UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA tS ANGELES i e/ SOME OBSERVATIONS MADE IN TRAVELLI NG THROUGH FRANCE, ITALY, &c. In the Years 1720, 172 1, and 1722. By EDWARD TFRIGHTEic^, In TWO VOLUMES. L O N "D O N: Printed for Tho. Ward and E. Wicksteed, in the Inner-Temple Lane. M.DCCXXX. hi c; -f '7 g^'"^'" I ifa.4- V. 1 To the Right Honourable GEORGE Lord PA R K E R, Vifcomit of Eive/me, Sc^. My Lord, HO' I am fenfible this Performance is little worthy of Your Lordship's Notice, and lefs of Your Patrona,ge ; yet the Inducements for offering it to You in this publick Manner, ai;e too ftrong for me to reflft, and wijl, I hope, fufficiently plead my Excufe for doing it. The following Account owes its Origine to the Ho- nour I had of attending You thro' the feveral Places which furnifhed the Obfervations prefented in it ; which gives You an undoubted Right to it on that fcore. But You have a yet better Title to it from the many Obfervations, and fbme of them the moft confiderable in it, which are Your's, (if I have not made them too much mine, by a difad- A 2 vantageous 4775^3 HISTORY IV rhe DEDICATION. vantageous Reprefentation ; ) an Acknowledgment, which, in fome of the Letters I had the Honour to write to my Lord your Father from abroad, con- taining feveral of the following Particulars, I thought myfelf obliged to make to Him, and muft here do it to the Publick. "'. t;; ?. i\ 1 .. At the fame tirne it will be a Proof of my not be- ing confcious of any Mifreprefentations, that I ven- ture thus to lay thefe things before You, who A^ere Yourfelf an Eye-Witnefs of moft of them: Anc Ve- racity, My Lord, in a Traveller, will make Amends for a great many other Failings. ' " May the ' iame^ Gobd-Natiire, and Sweetnefs of Temper, which fo greatly raifed the Delight and Plea- fure of our Journey, appear at this Time, in your canr . did Acceptance of this imperfect Delcription of it ; which,! tho', it had belonged to YdUR Lordship on no other Account, wou'd be moft certainly Yours on this ; that it is the only Return I can make for Your many Favours, and the only Teftimony I can give of the fincere Refpedl, wherewith I am, r ' - '-'■ ^'- ^ Mv Lord, Your Lon/JJjips, moji Obliged^ ami i , J moJi Obedient-, fno-r} ■':.. ■"■ -jhi '.v.rLi iii-t'ii 1 > O'LV I if] , ; •lijo .' o:K Hicinhle Servant., i.\:;'r< ;■. v;,; .•;.:. i', . ,, . r. iiivu. (0:>n';S,-jr-Y ' ED. WRIGHT. CM THE PREFACE. HEN Jirji I took the Mefnorandums from whe?tce thefollowi?2g Obfervations were com- piled', and for fome Years, after I had di- gefted the7n into the Method i72 which they now appear, I had no Intention of troubling the Pub- lick with them ; having had as little thought of beiftg an Author, as any man (7 believe) that ever became one. I had a great Patro7i and good Friend, to whom I thought myfelf obliged tofayfomethi7ig i7tore of the Pla- ces I had vifted abroad, tha7t barely that 1 had bee7i there ; a7td for His K7ttertain7nent it was, (if indeed a7iy Entertai7W7e7it 7night arife from fuch a pe7for- mance to Such a Tafle) that Ifi7'fl put 77iy fcattefd Ob- fervations thus together. Now that, for Reafons 1 7ieed 7iot trouble the Reader with, they lie at the Mercy of the Publick, they 7nufi ee7i take their Fate, as others have done before the77i. There fnay doiibtlefs be many l77iproprieties of Ex- preffion in an Account of fo 7nany different SubjeBs, and fuch a Variety of Particulars ; there may likewife hefo7}ie Errors ; but 7ione (I a7nfure) that are volun- tary. V5 The PREFACE. 'ta)v-i ^i'^^' ^^{y tbi?tg (that I am co?ifcious of J taken jlightly tip07i Truji : Some Things I was obliged to re- ceive from the hif or mutton of Others ; tho I never con- tented myfelf with thaty where the SubjeEi fell within the Compafs of f?iy Own Obfervation : I was cautious in receiving the former -^ and as exaEi as I could ifi ma- king the latter. When I differ^ in any material Circumflanccy from thofe who have g07ie before me^ I generally give my Reafons for ity wher£ there is Room for reafofiing upon fuch Difference : In matters of 7nere FaB, fo or not foy where there is nothing more for it than one -Affir- mation to fiand agajnji another., the Reader is poffefs d of a Right to believe which he pleafesy till future concur- rent Teflimonies may put the matter beyond Difpute, in Favour of the ojie or the other. Many Things which occurrd toffiy Obfervation^and iverefet dowfz in my Papers^ upon fearch^ I fou7td defcribed in other Accounts^ and have therefore fl ruck the77i out of fnine : Indeed fome of 77iy Friends-, who had feen them as they then floods have thought that I was too fcrupulous i?i that Particular ; and at Their Inflance I have fuffered fome Paffages of that kitid^i (which were 7iot throw7i away^ a7id quite deflroyed-^J to fland ; which elfe had g07ie with the Others. If I have enlarged 77iore upon the Articles ofPai7U- i7ig and Sculpture., than may poffibly be agreeable to the Tafle of every Reader., thofe Parts (which were indeed at firfi infer ted at the Cofnmand of Friends who have great Power over me, and afterwards by Than appointed to Jiand as part of the Work) are eafily pafsd over., by I fuch Tlie P R E F A C E. fuch as are indifferent to tbofe SubjeSis. And there are a conjiderable Niunber of Paintings^ that I had taken Notice of and fet down., which I have Ji ill 07fiittedy for Fear of being tedious on that Head : Tho perhaps the general^ and I had almoflfaid^ the fafhionableTaflefor thofe 'Things ^f which ?iow prevailsy andfeems too in a Way of prevailing fi ill f nor e^ rather than of decli7iing among uSf might well enough have juflified my inferting more thati I have done. J'F'e may well look upon this Tafle as prevailifigywhen we fee fuch Additiofts yearly made to the fne ColleSi ions of the Nobility ^ and the principal Gentlemefi of England, /« the Way of Painting and Sculpture : And of this the Jtalian F^irtuof, who make a Traffick of fuch Things, are very fenfeble, as they'con- fiantly find the Sweets of it, with regard to themf elves \ land the Romans in particidar, who have fuch a No- tion of the EnglifK Ardour, in the Acquifitio7i of Cu- riofities of every Sort, that they have this Expreffiofz frequent among them. Were our Amphitheatre porta- ble, the English would carry it off. The Defigns for the Prints here given, were taken by myfelf immediately from theThings reprefejtted, all ex- cept two or three. Tra7ife77t Opportujiity (fuch as a Traveller isoftenforcd to be contentwith,) i7tco7n7nodious- Situation, and fometimes very cold Weather, were U7i- avoidable Difadvantages, joind to a f77iall Share of Skill: If, upon thefe Accounts, they have lefs Delicacy than I could wifj, I hope the Affura72ce I can give my Reader, of Fidelity i7i the delivery of them, will jnake fome Amends : and That Affurance I coud not have gi- ven, had I take7i them upmi Ti'ufi fro7n Others ; asfo7ne have vu vm The P R E F A C E. ha-redone-, a7id that too perhaps at fecofid or third Hand. 'With regard to the E77gravi?ig them ; bejides the Choice of a very good Ha?idj Care has bee7t likewije take?!^ as to apartictdar Circiimjlance in the Execution : that is, to have all the Dejigiis reversed upon the Plates.^ which brings them off right ifi the Prints ; Jo that what Sta- tues a? id Ba£o~Relievoes are here prejented fas well as the Views^ &cc.J arefeen as the Things do themfelves ap- pear ; which has not bee?z obferved by Perrier, Sandrart, Bifchop, or the Efigravers of Rofli's Edition of Statues ; /;/ which fof/ie are rights and Jo7?ie reversed ; which leaves you at an Uncertainty^ a greater I?ico7tveniency tha7i if all were reversed. I ha dt for the IlluJiratio77 of what I fay C077cer7ii7i?r Ca.iTims Meridian Li7ie ^/Bologna, 77iade a little Sketch of that Part of the Floor of the Churchy where the Li7t& Ues-i with 07ily Marks for the Places of the Pillars be- tween which it pajfes ; but afterwardsfndi7Jg in Calli- ni'j- Book (in the Poffejfio7i of a Friend of 77iine-t tho very rare i7i England^ a Pri7it^ reprefenting a SeBion of the Church itfelf with the Rays defcribed as pajjng thro" the Hole in the Roof as well as falli7tg upon the Line which is on the Floor ; / took fo much of that Pri7it as fervd 77iy Pin'pofe ; which I thought 77iight be 77iore fa- tisfaSiory to the Reader^ tha7t the plai7i Sketch above- mentiotied^ which I had 77tade^ of the Floor 07ily. If in fo777e Parts of the followi77g Account^ the Reader fljould obferve a Differ e7ice of 'Ti77ie \ fo7ne Things bei7ig take77 Notice of as prefe77tt or frefljj which 7tow are, not jo ; and other Thi7igs here a7td there interfpers d^ 'which Jloew a later Date \ he will pleafe to conjider it as The P R E F A C E. as owing to the Dijiance of Time^ between the JVritinv ajjd the Public at iori : I have i?? many., I believe in moji Places., alter d theRxpreJfton fro7n what it was atfirjl, or by a Note reco7icif d it to the prefe?it Tifne \Jofnefew may pojfibly have efcap' d me. To the Tifne of my drawijig up this Account^ is like- wife to be attributed the putting into it fo?ne Things^ which I fjould hardly have put in now, as being what are become much more familiar to the Englifli at This Time than they were then : as the Italian Cojuedy ; the Venetian Masking, the Ridotto, and other Enter- tainme?jts of the Venetian Carnaval ', however, as this Book may fall into the Hands of Several, who have not been in the way of thofe kinds of Efttertainment here, a?2y more than abroad, what I have faid con- cerning them isfuffered to fland. I have here and there interfpers d fo77ie little Stories., as they catne in my way, relating to celebrated Pieces of Painting, and other Arts ', which, befides the Entertain- ment they may pojjibly give, by a little Variation of the SubjeB, may alfo enable the Reader to enter a little further into the Perfortnance, and into the Tejnper a?id Hu7tiour of the Mafler too, tha7i a bare DeJcriptio7i a- lone could have done. So77ie, of another kind, I could not forbear inferting, 07ily as aTafle.^or Speci77te7i, of Multi- tudes of Others of the like 7iature, current a77iorg the7n, which 77iay ferve tofloew the flrange fuperflitious Ab- furdities, which are fwallow d in grofs by the cc7n7non People, and fee7n to be even a Part ^ their Religion : they are laugh' d at indeed by the Men of Senfe, even there ; but as they have their EffeB upon the weaker a Mitidsi IX The P R E F A C E. Minds-) mfubjugatmg thefn Jlill more to the Power of the Priejis ; thefe Gentlemen are not only fufferdy hut encouragd to carry on the Pious Fraud, and catch the People with whatever Bait isoillferve bejl to take them. The Index I have dijlributed into three Parts ; (9«^, of the general MifcellaneoiisSiibjeSis ; another .> ofMafters and their Works.) containitig a Lift of the Paintings and modern Sculptures ; a thirdy of the Antiques : thereby endeavouring to make it as ferviceable as I could to every Reader ; that each may the more readi- ly find what he feeks for^ without being e?nbarafsd with what is ?7ot to his Purpofe. In the General Index under the Title of each City, as Rome (for exajnplej Flo- rence, Naples, a?id the refl, I have immediately fub- joined all the remarkable Places^ and Things., principal- ly obfervable in fuch City^ that they may lie all at once under View \ and have again put fuch Things as are ccnimo?! to more Cities than one, (as Amphitheatre^ AqueduEly Palace^ Pillar ^ 8cc.^ in their Alphabetical Place. ■'•' " '\ / have here and there made ife of a few Words^ as occurring ?nofi naturally upon the Occafion, which are familiar to thofe who are co7tverfa?it in the Subje&s I treat of but may not befo to other Readers \for which Reafon I have for the mofi part, immediately after fuch Wordsyfet down the Engliili of them: Same^ that I had either omitted to tranfiate at ally or had not been careful to tranfiate the firfi time the Word was ufed, I have explained in a fhort Vocabidary^ which is placed unmediately after this Preface. t«] A SHORT VOCABULARY; OR, EXPLANATION of a few Words made ufe of in the following Account ^l^miranda. The initial Word of the Title of a Book of Prints; reprelcnting fcvcral noted Pieces of Sculp* ture, in Bajfo Relievo, at Rome. The Title more at large is thus ; Admiranda Romanarum Antiqui' tatum ac ceteris Sculptura Veftigia, Anaglyfhico opera elaborata a Petro Sancti Bartolo delineata, incifa. Notis Jo. Petri Bello- Rii illuftrata. — Edita a Joanne Jacobo de Rubeis. Reftitiiity auxit, Dominicus de Rubeis MDCxciii. The Book is commonly called by the fmgle Word Admiranda, which 1 have ac- cordingly made ufe of. Alto 'i Baffo > Relievo. Are Pieces of Sculpture, where the Figures Mezzo J rife, in feveral Degrees of Projeftion, from the Flat of the Stone ; as the Figures in the Imprefllon of a Seal do from the Field, or flat Part of the Wax. Where they rife very high, 'tis called Alto Relievo i where they rife but little, 'tis called BaJJ^o Relievo j and the Mean between them is Mezzo Relievo. a 2 Atti' Xll A VOCABULART. Attitude. The Aftioa oi: Pofturc of a Figure. Caldano. A Vcflcl of Silver, or other Metal, not unlike the Ciftcrns ufcd at Side-Tables: wherein they burn Charcoal in the Middle of the Rooms, inftead of having Fires in Chimneys. Cameo. Heads, mort commonly, now and then, whole Fi- gures , cut Baffo'relievo-^i^y , in fome curious Stone, which is fometimcs of only one Colour ; but often the feveral Strata or Layers are of diffe- rent Colours ; the Ground or Field of one Colour, : -7 , the Face of another, the Hair and Beard, &c. of .. fe a third: Sometimes feveral Faces rife (as in the IViUiam and Mary Coins) from the fame Field, each of different Complexions. Chiaro Ofcnro. Sometimes underftood of Light and Shadow in a Piclurc; as when we fay. Here is a good Chi- ■y ... aro Ofcnro, 'tis the fame as to fay, The Lights and Shadows are well difpofed in this Piece. Some- times it is applied to a Pidure done only in two Colours, to diftinguifli it from one painted in all ■■],. ^•.^,^:: the natural Colours. TiifiempeT. A Term ufed with us for painting in Watcr- Colours, when 'tis not on Vclom, O'^. nor in „,..,". > '. Frefco, [fee Frefco,'\ but upon Canvas, drc. The \f^ .^ , French c^W 'w.'Detrempe ■■> x\\c Italians, IDiJhmpera, or Stempera •■, alfo Cuaz,zo. Facade. The Front of a Building. Fede. Properly, Faith. It is alio the Word ufed for a Bill .airj'l ^'^ Health, i.e. a Teftimonial, required to be pro- 1 duced at the Gates of Cities, &c. m Times of In- fcclion, in order to your Admittance into them. Frefco. Frefh. It is ufed to delcribe painting in Watcr- Colours upon frefh Plafler, /". e. before the Plafter is quite dry. It is alfo uled to exprels the frefh Air, in the Cool of the Evening, O'c. Applied aUb to cooling Liquors, as Limonade, c^r. Gieffo. A Sort of Plafter, much the fame as what we call Plaller of 'Fttom, for [Angels] read [Angles] P. 2J0. lin. /. laft Word in the Line, read iDomettichin] P. 2/j. lin. 12 from the bottom, for [Difcoveries] read [Dilcorery] P. 268. lin. 9. after [_Athemtiori4s] put [,] and inftead of lELhoJianus] read IR/^odtans} P. 288. lin. J. for [as] read [is] P. 296. lin. 19. for [Ttseca'] read \Tuecta] P. 297. lin. s- for lPalaz,x.a] read lFaUz,x,o] Lin. It. for [Sow] read [Boar] P. 346. lin. 9. for [here given] read [is given in the Plate of page J 13-] P. 367. lin. 21, for [Architefture] read [Architrave] P. 373. lin. 10. for ilnjlantius~\ read [Inftuni] P. 404. lin. 6 from the bottom, for [froc'itian] read {Troctlian] P. 414. lin. 7. from the bottom, read [a Cameo, very fine] as in the preceding Line (where it ihould have been put;) with [,] only after [Mars] P. 418. lin.S.from the bottom, for [heregiven] read [given at pag. 397] P. 42J'. lin. 9. from the bottom, for [the] read [a] P. 46$-. lin. 6. from the bottom, between [of] and [a] infert [Trh/w/w] P. 491. lin. 8. for [a kill'd] read [kill'd a] P. f i4.1in. 10, from the bottom, the firft Word in the line, read [Town] iV<,U Some BOOKS printed for Mcflieurs Ward and Wicksteed, ill the Inmr-Tera^ls Lane. THK PRACTICAL ^USTICJE, OB PSACS: qe a Trcatifis fhewiag el^ Power and Authority of that Office ia all its Branches. BxtraBed from the fe- 'vernl Books hitherto written on thflt Subjecli aad digetltd under proper Titles, in an Alphabetical Method To which are added, greatVarigty of the inoft ufelul Precedentsi inierted under their proper Heads, and brought down to. this prefeiit Year. Together with an Alphabetical Table of all the Stati4tei, which, relate to the Titles contained in this Work, and of the Titles themfelves. The whole fitted; for tjie Ufe oijufiices of the Peace, Coroners, Sherilfs, Clerks of Ajfir.e, and of the Peace, Citjios Rotulorums, CommiJJio- ners of Servers, Overfiers of the Poor, Surveyors of the Highways, ChiirchvarJens, and others. By fofefh Shaw of the Middle -Temple Hc^i in i vols- ^vo. A Compleat Hiftory of the late War, in the 2a7». Improved with large Additions of many hundred Coats of Arms, under their rei'peiSiTe Bearings, with ^oo«/ Authorities from the Aflimolean Library, Sir George Maekem.ii, 8cG. With his Treatift concerning Prpffif,!»/England, and Shire-Toivns oi eich County, and their Amis. Likewile a Supple- ment of Scarce TraBs, relating to the Office of Arms, taken from Authentick Copies. And a Diclionary, in EngUf?, Latin, and Trench, explaining the fcveral Terms ufed by Heralds. With proper Tables to the whole. In Folio. Lexicon Technicitrn.-. or an univerfal Englifli Diftionary of Arti and &ie»<4* ; explajiv- ing not only the Tejms of Art, but the Arts them/elves. By Johi) Harris, late Secretary to the Royal Society, and Chaplain to the Lord High Chancellor oi Great Britain, ^.th Edi- tion, X vols- Folio. Of 'of the LKWofKature and tJathns, in 8 Books. Written in Latin by the Saron Tuf- feihlorf, Counfellor of State to his late SweJi/l> Majefty, and to the late King of VruJJia. Done intoEnglilli by Bafil Kennct, D.D. late Prefident of Corf ui Chrifii College in Ox- ford. To which is added all xhcUrge Notes of Mr. Barbeyrac, tranflated fiom the bcfl Edition ; together with large Tables to the whole. The Fourth "Edition, carefully cor- refted. To which is wowprefixt Mr. Barieyrac's Prefatory Difcourfe, containing an Hi- fiorical and Critical Account of the Science of Morality, and the Progrefs it has made in the World, from the earlieft Times, down to the Publication of this Work. Done into ZngUjhhy Mv.Carewoi Lincoln's-Inn. Folio. n ) '. N. i). The Prefatory Difcourfe is Cold alone, to perfcft thofe Gentlemen's Books 3i'\i who have bought the j former Editions. A ComfleatHiftory of England: with the Lives of all the Kings zni Queens thneoi i from the earlieft Account of Time to the Death of KJVilUam III. i^/i. from the earlieft Account of Time to William the Conqueror, by Mr. John Milton; the Life and Reign oi' l4'ilUam 1. William U. Henry 1. K. Stephen, Henry II. Richard I. IC. John, Henry III. Edward I. Edivardll. EdroardlU. By Samuel.Daniel Efq; KifAiin/ II. Henry IV. Henry V.Henry VI. New -writ in Mr. Daniel's Method; Edrvard IV. by fohn Habington Efq; Edward V. by Sir Thomas Moore, and continued from Hall and Hollingfliead ; the fame by Geo. Buck Elq; Henry VII. by the Lord Bacon ; HenryVWl. by the Lord Herbert of Cherbury ; Edward VI. by Sir John Hayward L.L.D. Q^Mary, by Francis Lord Bidiop oi Hereford ; Q^. Eli!.a- beth, by W. Camden Efq; the Annals of K. James I. by the faid Mr. Camden j the Life and Reign of K.James I. by Arthur Wilfon Efq; the Life and Reign of IC. Charles I. all ntVJ -virithy i learned and impartial Hand ; V^. Charles II. Y^. James II. K. William and QMary, and K. William III. by the fame learned and impartial Hand, with Au- thmtick Appendixes . Containing -3^ faithful Relation of all Affairs of State Ecclefiafical and Civil. The whole illuftrated with large and ufeful Notes, taken from divers M.S.S. and good Authors: and the Ejfgies of all the Kings and Queens from the Originals en- graven by the beft Mailers. In j VolumcsFolio. The Second Edition corredcd ; with Amendments, and Additions to the third Volume. Memorials of Affairs of State, in the Reigns of Q^ Elizabeth and K. James 1. CoUcfted from the original Papers of the Right Honourable Sir Ralph Winwood Knt. fome time one of the principal Secretaries of State. Comprehending hkewile the Nego- tiations of Sir Henry Nevil, Sir Charles Cornwallis, Sir Dudley Carlton, Sir Tho. Ed- tnondes, Mr. Trumbull, Mr. Cottington, and others, at the Courts of France and Spain, and in Holland, Venice, 8cc. wherein the principal Tranfadtions of thofe Times ive faith- fully related, and the Intrigues of thofe Courts at large difcover'd. The whole digefled in an exa£t Series of Time. To which are added two Tables: One of the Letters, the other of the principal Matters. By Edw. Sawyer of Lincoln' s-Inn Efq; in j vol. Folio. 1' The Works of the Famous Nicholas Machiavtl, Citizen and Secretary of Florence. Written Originally in Italian, and from thence newly and faithfully tranflated into Engli/li, jd Edition Folio. A new Set of Maps hoih of Ancient indPrefent Geography, wherein not only the La- titude and Longitude of many Places are correcled, according to the latefl Obfervations i but alfo the moft remarkable Differences of y}»f/>«r jnAPrefent Geography, xn-^y be quickly difccrncd by a bare Infpeeiitin, or comparing ot corrcfpondent Maps ; which icemsto be a moll natural and eafy Method to lead young Students (for whofe Ufe this Work is prin- cipally intended) toacomplcat Knowledge ot the Geographical Science; together with a Geographical Treatife, particularly adapted to the Ufe and Delign of thcfe Maps. By £over four Days for a Wind, we at laft found a favourable one, that brought us in five Hours from thence to Calais, March t'~. As I did but juft pafs thro' France in my Jour- ney, fo I had not Opportunity to make any con- fiderable Obfervations in that Country. I fhall offer fiich oc- cafional ones as occurr'd in my way. THE ordinary Women at Calais made a very odd Appea- rance, with a fort of Defence from cold they had about their Necks : Twas of fome fhaggy Materials, Iccm'd a Foot Diameter in the thickcft Part, and look'd like a Sheep laid acrois a But- cher's Shoulders. Afterwards at Abbeville, 1 found the lame Ornament wore in another manner, the thickcft Part on the Top B of Abbeville. of their Head, the reft comhig down over their Ears, like fome monftrous ill-iliap'd Peruque : A Mantle hangs from it behind : A great Muff (which is worn univerfally, even by the mcaneft of the People) fecurcs their Hands, and wooden Shoes their Feet. By all this Armour againft Cold, I could almoft have fancied my felf in Iceland, rather than in France; but they have Reafon- for what they do : for, however hot their Summers may be, their Winters are certainly not lefs cold; their Winds thin and piercing, againft which Cloaths are hardly a Defence. All along from C/?/^/.f there appear'd a general Air of Poverty, till we came to the Place laft (poke of \_ Abbeville^ ; where the meaner People are kept from Idlencfs and Want, by means of a great Woollen Manufafture, which employs and fupports a vaft Number of them. The broad Cloath they make, is remitted from thence to Rome, and other Parts of Italy, and even to England^ as they told us: they work chiefly Spanifh Wool. The Work is all conducted by Mr. Vanrobais and his Nephew. His Houfe is very magnificent. The Parterres before it, adorn'd with Statues, ire. and little Cannons on a Terrace juft before the Houfe. The Wings behind the Houfe (which feem'd about fifty Yards long) are employ 'd intheManu- fadure. There are Galleries in feveral Stories : in one are Men fhearing oft' the Nap, in another Women and Girls picking oft' the Knots, c^r. with Nippers: in others the Looms, a liundred and one in thofe Wings, befidcs what are in the Town : there were forty two in one Gallery : in another the Carders, Men on one fide of the Gallery, Women on the other; in an- other the Finifhers, laying the Nap with Brufhes ; the Scowrers below. W^here the Looms are, the Gallery is divided by a Row of Pillars, and in each of the hitervals between the Pillars arc plac'd two Wheels and two Reels, for ordering the Wool and Yarn. The Spinning is all done within the Compafs of the Town. He employs in his Houfe, and in the Town, llxthou- fand five hundred People. Other Out-wings there are, employ- ed in Dying, and other Parts of the Work. Frames regularly iang'd along the Sides, which look like thofe for Efpaliers, are for drying the Cloath : all plac'd fo well and regular, that no- thing of that great Buf.ncfs is off^enlivc, but the Structure of all the Offices tends to Ornament. The Situation is very I advanta- Beauvais. J advantageous, jiift by the River-fide, Cthe Somme*^ where ^cllelscome up to the very Gates. I obferv'd nothing coafide- rable in the Town itfelf . The moft agreeable part of it is a Square, lla "Placed where there is a View of four or five Churches all lying near togetherj^.. The Fortifications about the Town feem to have been,good, and are ftill in a tolerable Condition. We pafs'd over five Draw-bridges before we enter'd the Town. At Montremlj (before we came to Abbeville) .1 obferved Houfes and Churches built all of Chalk. In the Villages, as we went along, we frequently faw a con- fidcrablc Length of poor Houfes without ever a Window ; and the People fare very hard ; yet are gay and fprightly. In one of the Inns we were ferv'd by a poor Fellow, who frisk'd about with all the Vivacit^Sjjnaginable : He told us he had Hiiit en- fans^ & point d'Arge^ Eight Children, and no Money : I ask'd him, what he meant to do with them all ? Ohy TotiS four le Roi : AU-fa^the King. For, notwithftanding the great Tyranny they kbour under, the Glory of their Grand Monarque is theif perpetual Theme. A T Beauvais, I faw two fine Churches ; they are of what we call Gothick Architefture, but beautiful in their way, and Very well adorh'-d. One dedicated to St. Stephen \_Auguflines^ the other to St. y^/^r {Chanoins Seculairs^. In the former arc colour'd Glafs Windows very well worth feeing. Sculptures and Bas-Reliefs good, (at leaft what I then thought fo) both within the Church and without, and a fine Steeple ; the Scul- ptures better than ,the Paintings. Great Piles of Skulls and Bones furrounded the Church, clofe up along its Walls, with monitory Infcriptions. The Choir of St. Teter's is remark- ably fine ; laid to be the bcft in France. This Church, and ( I think ) the other were built by the Englifh, when Matters of * Our Chronicles record, aiviong other Anions of our valiant King "Edtoard the Third, His leading his Forces himfclf thro' a fordable Part of this River, againft Goilmor dii Voy, n General of the 'French King, who was ported on the other Side with looo Horle and 6000 Foot to hinder his Paffage; " But "Edward (whom as Obftacles made impetuous, " fo nothing could difinay) enters himfelf into the Ford, crying, he that loves me, let " him follg-w me 5 as one that was lefolved either to pafs or die." The PaiTage won, he defeated Du Voy, and killd 2000 ot his Men. This v/as by way of Prelude to the ■great Battel of Crtjfie. B 2, France % Paris. France ; as was likcwifc the Notre T>atne in 'Paris, and feveral other Churches. Here are fome good Sculptures, and better Paintings than in the other. Some of them fet in Frames of Marble. All the Entrance into the Choir is adorn'd with Marble ; with Angels fupporting Tables, &c. on each Side. About Beauvais were the firfl: Vineyards I faw. THE Abbey of St. tennis , within two Leagues of TariSj is not only very fine it fclf, but has a Treafure immenfely rich. This is the Burial-place of the French Kings, whofe Tombs they (hew. That of the late King \_Louis XIV.] is cover'd with a Pall, a Lamp continually burning by it, and is fo to continue, till the prefent King be dead too. For about ten Leagues before we arriv'd at 'Faris^ the Roads were very pleafant, with Rows of Trees planted on each Side the Way. F A R I S. TH E fhort time I ftaid at Faris allow'd me Opportunity of making but very few of the Remarks which might have been made in fo great and fine a City, and the Royal Palaces adja- cent. And my Expedation of returning that way, made me lefs foUicitous about it, than otherwife I fhould have been : but that Expedation was fruftrated by the Plague breaking out in France while we were in Italy. The Forte St. F>enisy a great Gate at the Entrance into Faris^ with Infcriptions, LuDovico Magno, &c. and Bas- Rclicfs dcfcribing his Vidories, give a grand Llea of that City. The Streets are narrow, and the Houfes high, each perhaps con- tributing to make i"he other appear more io. There arc fome publick Squares, which they call Flaces, [in Italy., Fiazze'X which are well built, as the Flace Roiale^ des Vi&oires, de Vendome, &c. In each of thefc are large Statues, fome of their Kings i that in the Flace des ViEioires of Louis XIV. is gilt, with four Slaves in Copper, one at each Corner of the Pedeftal, which I thought much better than the principal Figure : That feenVd too much embarafs'd with fluttering Drapery, and a Vi- ftory that perfectly overwhelms the Monarch. That in the Flace Roiale is Ev^ucftral, cf Louis XIII. There is another large P A R I S^. large one Equcftral, of Henry IV. on the ^ont nettf. The Fountain of the Samaritan on that Bridge, (fo called from the Figures of our Saviour and the SamaritanV^om'M-)., which adorn it) is much cried up, and is indeed pretty enough ; as are its Chimes, mov'd by the Water, which go every three Hours. But the fineft Fountain, and the fineft thing in its kind of any in 'Paris is the Fontaine des NympheSy in the Rue St. 'Denis, a very good Piece of Architefturc, and adorn'd with Bas-Reliefs of Nymphs, crc. of a verygcod Tafte. This Fountain is not of lefs Ufe, than Ornament to the City, which feems to be but ill-water'd ; for, hither the People come with their VelTels for Water, and cry it about the Streets, as they did here in London in the Time of the Great Froft, and with a difmal Tone they utter it. The River Seine., which runs thro' the City, is very muddy, and good for few Ufes ; and not made clearer by the Numbers of Wafher- women, who take their Station in Boats> a Row of which is planted juft under one of the King's Palaces. The River abounds much in Carps, which the People carry about the Streets, aliTc, in Water, The only finifh'd Royal Palace I faw, and what feemed to me the bcft built, was that of the Luxemburg : The Louvre and, Thuilleries are neither of them finifh'd ; the former indeed al- moft ruinated ; the Frontof itis very fine, butfeento difadvan- tage, by reafon of the Narrownefs of the Street it Hands iru The Gardens of the Thuilleries are by fome efteem'd the beft difpos'd of any in France-, as Gardens ; for, thofe of Verfailles they will have to be rather a Country finely adorn'd. I iaw them at the worft, it being then the Beginning of March. They fhew'd me a fmall Part enclos'd 5 with a Mall, &c. for the King to play in. I had the Honour to fee his Majefty twice 5 and a very fine Youth he was> nor wanted any Advantages (to be fure) to fet off his Natural Graces. The Architefture of the Luxemburg is Tttfcan ; and the Pil- lars are fo excefiivcly charged with the Ruftick, that they look'd like a Heap of vaft Chejhire Cheefes, or rather Mill-ftones fet one upon another. I there faw the celebrated Gallery of Rubens, fo well known by the Prints : the Paintings are fome ot them much damag'd by Wet 5 -byt fuch as are prefcrv'd, fhew a great Beauty of Colouring, by wluch that Great Mafter fo diftinguilhed * him (^ \ 6 ' ' Paris. himtelf ; not that tlicy were all wholly peiform'd by his own Hand ^ Vandyke, and others, his principal Difciples, having confiderably aflifted : and well might one fuppofe fome Affi- ftance, when |he whole was performed in two Years time ; as Monfieur Aiidran, an excellent Engraver, and a very obliging Perlbn, who Ihew'd me the Palace, told me : Some of the Plates were engraved by him. There is a fine Picture of Gutdo in the fame Palace, rcprefcnting 'David and Goliah. In the Palace of the Tbiiilleries, I law the famous Pidure of Le Brim, 'Darius's Tent, of which we have fo many Rcprefen- tations in England: There is a fine Expreflion in the Counte- nances ^ the Draperies and Ornaments are beautiful ; the Colour- ing is warm and harmonious, but fomcwhat heavy, wanting the Tranfparency we fee in the Italian Paintings : 'Tis no great Advantage to it, particularly in that refped, to have a fine Pic- ture of 'Paolo Veronefe juft oppofitc to it: Tis a Laft Supper, The Battles of Alexander I did not fee. In the Talais Roial, where the late Duke Regent then lived, I faw the Seven Sacraments of Nicola Toujjin-, and other Works of that Maftcr : There is another Sett of them at Rome, of a , " different Dcfign, m thcV^lzccoi Cavalier 'Pozzo. A monftrous Stone-figure of St. Chriftopher in the Church of Notre 'Dame, rather amazes than pleafes ; 'tis about ten Yards in Height. The Advocates in Paris have their Trains born up : I law fe- fevcral of them going along : and I was told that their Wives have the fame Privilege. If the Lawyers there have fuch a Mark of Eflcem, it fcems to be quite otherwife with the Phyfi- cians, who (generally fpcaking) are not cftecmed Company for Gentlemen : However the particular Merit of fome may raife them above their Brethren, this 1 was informed to be the Cafe of the Generality of the Faculty. They arc much upon the fame footing in Italy, if not worle. There were two remarkable Executions in Paris, while I Was there 5 one was of two Villains burnt alive, for their vile Ufage of a poor Pricft, of which he died. They flea d the Top of his Head, where 'twas fhav'd for his Orders, alfo the Ends of his Thumb and two lingers which were confecratcd for touching the Holt 5 burnt the Bottoms of his Feet, miidc him blafpheme God, Paris. Auxerre. God, and further treated him in a moft barbarous manner. They iiad pitch'd Shirts put on them, andwcrc then tied down to Faggots, which were let on fire. The Pricft had been found llrolling in the Streets at an unfcafonablc Hour, and put into a Round-houie, or fome fuch Place, in the fame Room with thcfe Villains, who, having got a Prieft to 'em, thought fit to divert themlclves with him in the inhuman way above-men- tion'd. The other Execution was of Count Horn and his Accomplice, a Marquifs, broke upon the Wheel, for robbing a Stock-jobber in the ^linquempoix (their Exchange-Alley), and murdering him. The former is laid to have been related. to fome of the chief Sovereigns in Europe ; and when 'twas urg'd by fome, who follicited the Regent for his Pardon, or at Icalt a Change of the Sentence, That it wou'd not look well that a Pcrfon fo highly allied, Ihou'd fuffcr lb ignominious a death ; he anfwer'd, That the Shame and the Difgrace lay in the Crime, not in the Punifhmcnt, and that the former cou'd only be purged by the latter : So order 'd immediate Execution. FROM Taris I wciit up the Seine in the Cache d'Em.^o Auxerre^ in the Dukedom of Burgundy. When we arriv'd ' "* within two Leagues of that Place, we landed to take a View of the Bifhop of Aiixerre's Country-Seat, and were tempted, by the plcafmg Appearance of the Vineyards, to take a Walk through them to the City, and left thcCochedEau to follow with our r>aggagc. The City has but a poor Appearance i there are fome good Churches, but the Houles are mean ; the Wine there is excellent, and the ^Streets abominably pav'd : a Warning not to be too free with the former. FROM hence I went by Land to Chalons : but made no- Stay in any place. Not far from Chanfan, a fmall Town, wc pafs'd thro' a moft plealant Vale, where Streams ran ifluing from fcveral Sources in the Side of a Mountain, and lower down formed a fmall River by tha Village of 'Ponce. Here we heard Wolves howling in the Woods, which in hard Win- ters Tally out J not much to the pleafure of the Traveller- Further on, we pafs'd along a pcrfed Labyrinth of winding Vales, which brought us to a little Town, which itfelf is call'd the Dijon. Chalons. Lions^ the Vale de Soijfons, a pkafant Brook running all- along through the Town. This is leven Miles fhort of T>ijon, a Parlia- ment City, under whofe Walls we pafs'd, but had not time to fee it, On this Road we Taw a Wedding Cavalcade ; Mrs. Bride, drefs'd all in White, riding aftride among about thirty Horfe- men ; and herlelf the only Female in the Company. AT Chaigny, a fmall Town further on, I faw an Inftance of that well-plac'd Charity, the Redemption of Slaves from Algiers, &c. there were forty-eight in the Company : the Fa- thers of Redemption were along with them. They told me, there was not one Frenchman [that was a Roman Catholick] left behind ; but great numbers of Chriftians of other Nations, and among them abundance of Engltfh. But his Britijlo Ma- jefty has fliewn, that 'tis not peculiar to the French, or Roman Catholicks, to commiferate the Sufferings of Captives, and re- deem them from their Slavery. TvomChalons, (which is a fmall City oi Bur gtmdy) x.o Lions, I went down the Saon ; it happen'd to be much overflown after fome violent Rains i and our Veflcl having mifs'd the Courfc of the River, we found our fclvcs ^^airly fet down in the middle of a Meadow : but our Pilot foon retriev'd his Er- ror, and brought us into the Current again. ■- As we came near Lions, we had a View of feveral plea- fant Country-Seats, and Vineyards along the Banks. But as to the former, France fecms to be no-way fo full of them as England i 1 icarce faw any in my Land-Paffage : The few that •are, lie generally near the great Cities, where the Qiiality re- Jldcj a fhort and cafy Retreat for them. LIONS. LIO N S is ^ large and fine City ; theRivcr runnmg thro* the middle of it, as the Seine does through 'Paris. Here tile Rhone falls into the Saon, and by this Conjunftion, as by a fort of Marriage, the latter lofcs its Name ; and the former gives Name to the whole, till it difchargcs itfelf into the Ale- 4iterra?iean. There Lion s. There are in this City feveral good Churches : thofc of the Jejliiis and 'Dowinuans arc richly adorn 'd with Marble; and that of the Franc I fc an s is well fiord with Pictures. But nei- ther the Structure nor Ornaments of thefe Churches, nor of any that I faw in France, are to be compar'd with thole in Italy. The chief Chm;ch in Lions, is that o^ St. John : The Canons of this Church are Counts. Here I faw the famous Clock fo much talk'dof: I came at the bcft time for fceuig it, which is twelve a-clock ; at which time the Figures move. An An- gel opens a little Door, and difcovers the Blclfed Virgin j a Figure of G O D the Father defcends to her, and immediately a brazen Cock crows a-top. There are a great many other Movements, reprefenting the Celeftial Motions, c^r. which 1 had^ not time to obferve. I cannot fay that what I cou'd fee of it anfwer'dmy Expeftations, conlldcring the great Talk they make of it j but, 'tis an old Piece of Work, and made at a time when fine Works of that kind were not fo frequent as they are now ; however, they IHU endeavour to continue the Efteem it might once have juftly had. There are fome very handfome Houfes of the Nobility, (^c but thofe of the Citizens have a difagreeable Look, by reafon there is no Glafs in the Windows, but inftead thereof only oil'd Paper, which is often tatter 'd and torn. The like is alfo frequent in Italy. Generally at the Corners of Streets, and in other publick Places, there are Statues of the Bleflcd Virgin and our Saviour, and fome of them I obfcrv'd not ill ones. At the Entrance into the Archbifhop's Palace, the Hotel of the Intendant, and of all the chief Magiftrates, there is placed a tall and very ftrait Fir [not growing], like the Maft of a Ship i but a fmall Brufh of the Branches is left a-Top. About the middle of the Body are hung the Arms of the Perfon ; 'tis to diftinguifh thofe from the Common Houfes. The Height and Straitncfs of the Tree, is perhaps intended to point out the Eminence and Uprightnefs of the Perfon. ■If the City of Lions had not a Sanazarius to celebrate her Praifes, fhe feems to have had as good a Friend, tho' a worfc Poet 5 as will appear by the following Epigram, writ in Letters of Gold, over the great Gate of the Hotel de Vtlle, which is C a 10 f Saoa. Lions. a noble Stru«:^urc. 1 have fmce been told it was written by one of the Scaligers. * Khine. Flufnineis * Rhodanus qua fe fngat incitiis iindiSy ^tdq; pigro ditbitat fiumine mitis t Arar, Lugdunum j'rff^'?, antiqiw novus Orbis in OrbCy Lugdunumq; 'vetus Orbis in Orbe novo, ^lod nolis, alibi quaras-, hie quare quod optes. Ant hie, ant ntifquam, vineere Vota potes. Lugduni, qttodcunqi potefi dare Mundus, habebiSy Tltira pet as, hac Urbs & tibi plura dabit. ■ Wlijch may be thus tranflated : Where Rhone impetuous rolls, and where the flow And gentle Saon with milder Stream docs flow. There Lions (lands 5 where we united find What fcattcr'd thro' the World delights the Mind j And if you (till feck more with greedy Eye, Lions can ev'n more Wonders ftill fupply. The City of Lions has two Pieces of Antiquity which are much valu'd : The firft is the Speech of Claudius in the Se- nate, in favour of the People of Lions, that they fhould be made a Roman Colony, and come into the Senate; 'tis en- grav'd on a Brals Plate, and preferv'd in the Hotel de Ville Tor Town-Houfc] juft mention'd. Claudius was a native of Lions, which had thence the Name of Copia ; being call'd Colonia Claudia Copia Augujia Lugdunenjis. Copia, as the place of his Nativity, and as it were his Nurfe i in allufion to the Horn of the Goat [or of Achelous, according to fome] that nourifli'd Jilpiter -, Cornucopia. The Speech is printed by tAx.Spon, and others. The other, is an ancient Altar, creded on occafion of a Tau- ribolium. The Tauriboles were a Sacrifice besiun late in the Pagan Superfdtion, and thence continued to the laft of it : they were made to Cybele Magna Mater ■■, and were inftituted as a ibrt of Baptifm of Blood, in oppoRtion (as is (uppos'd) to the Eaptifm of the Chriftians. The firft Account of them is given by Julius Firmicus Ma- Urnus, in his Cook de Erroribus prophanarum Religionum, I and Lions. II and afterwards by T>alenks : alio very particularly, as to the Circumftances of the Ceremony, by 'Prudentins, in Martyre Romano. The Manner of the Tauribole, as given by Trudentiiis, was thus: They made a fort of a Pit, into which the Pritfl. de- Iccnded, adorn'd with a Crown of Gold, and a Silk Vcft- mcnti over the Pit were plac'd Boards, not join'd clofe, and with Holes likewile bor'd through them. Then they brought a great Bull, adorn'd with Flowers, and Feftoons a- bout his Horns, and his Forehead gilt: Then they cut his Throat, lTe5tus facrato dividunt Venabido'\ and the hot Blood ran down thro' the pierc'd Boards, and rain'd a Shower upon the Prieft, who flood ui\dcr, and receiv'd the Blood on his Head, and all over him. Not content with this, he turns up his Face to receive it on his Cheeks, Nofe, Lips, his very Eyes, and into his Ears. He opens his Mouth, and moiftens his Tongue with it, till well walh'd infide and outfide, he is become all over Blood. The other Priefts take the now bloodlefs Viftim off the Boards ; then out comes the High-prieft, (for luch he is now become) Hke a drown'd Rat, with his Clothes and Perfon all drunk with Blood. The People at a diflance falute and adore the horrid Speftacle, not daring to approach him, whom they look upon now as wafh'd and fandifieu. Bcfides the Tauriboles, there were alfo Crioboles and ^,y^gi\ boles, of Rams and Goats. ' ; Thefe Sacrifices were perform'd by Cities and Provinces, 'Pro Salute Imp^eratoris^ ^c. and by private People, for their own Profpcrity. That at Lwns is, Pro Salute Imp. Caf. Ttti ^^/Elii Ha- driani Ant. Aug. Pit, Pat. P atria, Liberorumq-, Ejus, & Sta- tUs Col&nia Lugdunenfis. The Altar, or Memorial-Stone of this Tauribolium was found at Lions., Anno 1705- In the middle of the InfcriptiOn is a Bull's Head, adorn'd with a Srring of Pearl, or what makes fuch an App'^arance 5 tlic Ends hanging down behind the Ears. On one fide of the Stone is a Ram's Head, adorn'd as the Bull's i and on the other, a Sword or Knife, of a particular Figure [the Sacratum Venabulmnly with an Infcription, Cujus Mefonyifium faBum eji 5 ldHsT>e- C z cembris i l^ L I O N S. V I E N N E. cembrisi which fhcws that the Ceremony was perform'd at Mid- night. By the Ram's Head it appears there was a Criobol'tum join'd with the Tauriboliumy which was done ibmctimes. Vi- de apud Montfaucon tlie Figure of all, with a full Account of the whole. This City was once poflefs'd of another piece of Antiquity of extraordinary value, if it were really the thing they affert it to be, a Votive Buckler in Honour of Scipto'% Continence ; loft in the Rhone, at his return from Spain, and found in the Year 1656. 'tis now in the Frmr/' King's Cabinet. Near the Entrance into the Hotel de Ville, is the Abbaie Roiale, all noble Ladies ; the Archbifhop of Lion's Sifter, Daugh- ter to the Mar^al de Villeroj, was the Lady Abbefs, when 1 was there. There is a handfome Square in this City, call'd La Tlace de Louis le Grand, where there were fome fine new Houfes then building, with large Sculptures of Trophies and other Ornaments. In the middle is a large Equeftral Statue of Louis XIV. in Copper, on a Pedeftal of white Marble. On one fide are Walks, after the manner of the Mali in St. James's Park j but not fo fine, nor fo well kept. The Cthen] new efpoufed Princefs of Modena, Daughter to the Duke Regent oi France, came to Lions while I was there, in her way to Italy. I faw her Highnefs at the Play, at- tended by the Archbifhop (who fat in the Box with her), to- gether with the Intendant, and two or three of the chief Ladies of the City. Her Pcrfon was graceful, and her Face much finer, than to need that Addition of Art, without which the French Ladies (efpecially thofe of the firft Qiiality) don't look upon themfelves to be dreft. LEAVING Lions, I pafs'd through Vienne, an Archbi- Hioprick, and once a Roman Colony, called by Claudiusy in his Speech for thofe of Lions, OrnatiJJima Colonia valen- tifflmdq, Viennenfium : but at prefent it makes but a poor Fi- gure. Not far from hence is made the Cote rote Wine. This Name is not given it, as being taken from the roafled fide, in oppofi- tion to the other iidc of the fame Hill, as fome have formerly T E I N. IJ told me 111 England; nor, as others, that 'tis made of Grapes pick'd from the moft Sunny-fidc of the Vine ; but 'tis thus : There are two Hills lying one on each fide the Road» which my Fellow-travellers Ihcwed me, as we went along: One lies more advantageoufly to the Sun, than the other 5 and 'tis that which they call the Cote rote. BETWEEN S.ValUer and Tein they iTiew'd me what they call the Chateau de Tilate, where they fay he died in Ba- nifhment; but that Account is look'd upon as fabulous. NEAR Tein is the 'famous Hill, whence the Hermitage Wine comes, fo call'd from a Hermit's Cell, which they fhcw'd me on the Top of it. The Hill is but Irnall, and much un- likely to afford fuch a Quantity of Wine as goes by that Name. . We met with but poor Stuff at Tein^ and there they told us that the Bulk of the Vintage was engrofs'd for the King's Cel- lars, and thofe of the chief Quality ; unlefs, for the Benefit of the Clergy, fome were by-thc-by dipt into Jefuits Convents.. . SOON after we left Tein, we pafs'd over the River Lifeirre, . and another after, call'd 'Drum ; the later is efteem'd at fome times the worft for Paflage in all France, but well enough , when we pafs'd it. Here we had a fine and pleafant View of : fome high Mountains in T)auphine. AT Bouleine, on a Meagre-day, we were fcrv'd with aPri-.- caflee of Frogs. This Town is under the Pope. A little before we came to Bouleine, we left 'Daupbinh and cnter'd 'Provence. In the Afternoon we pafs'd through the Town and Principality of Orange. Being confin'd to the diligence, I here regretted the not obferving fome fine Re- mains of Antiquity, one of which I got a tranficnt fight of, juft before we enter'd the Town. I had fome Comfort in the hopes of our returning that way ; but Orange was in no in- viting condition at our return. The T>ii!gince, a great Coach that holds eight Perfons, is a , Machine that has not its Name for nothing; what it waiits in . Qiiickncfs it makes up in Afliduity ; though by the help of . 3 tight Avignon. A i x. Marseilles. cialit Mules which drew it, wc fomctimes went a brisk Pace too; having paiVd from Lions to Marfeules^ which they call a hundred Leagues, in three Days and a half. THE Walls oi Avignon [fubieft to the Pope], where wc lay, arc faid to be the hncft in Europe, whatever they are for Strength ■■> but 'twas almoft Night when we came there, and not Day when wc left the Town ; fo that much was not to be fcen. There is on one fide a very ftecp Rock towards the Rhone. THE Day following, we enter'd France again ; for they do not call fuch Parts France, as are not' under the French King. A little before this, wc pafs'd over the River 'Durance, near Bonpas, a Stream more rapid than the Rhone itfelf. W E pafs'd by Aix, a Parliament Town, which they told me is a very beautiful one; but going only through the Suburbs, I could fee but little of it. The Road from Lions to Marfeilles, cfpecially the two firft days, did abundantly make amends for the ill ones I met with clfcwhcre. We drove over a perfe£b Gravel Walk, which la" fomc places, for Miles together, was as ftraight as a Line. In the Vineyards on each fide, were Standards of Abricot and Peach-Trccs, then in full Bloflbm ; Groves fomctimes of Wall- nut, Almond, Mulberry, and Olive- Trees. The whole Coun- try now appcar'd in a pleafing Bloom ; and even the Face of the Seafon, all of a fudden chang'd from cold bleak Winds (Iharper than in England) and violent Rains, throirgh a pcrfed alteration of Climate, to a delightful Warmth. „ ' MARSEILLES. TH E Situation of Marfeilles is moft agreeable. On one fide lies the Mediterranean ; on the other, 'tis en- compafs'd with plcafant Hills, whofc Skirts arc bcftrcw'd, as it were, with pretty Houfes, which they call Baftides ; they are little Villa's [or Country-Seats] of the Merchants, and o- thers in Marfeilles, whole hot Situation, having a South Sun i'cflcdcd from the Sea upon the City, on one fide, and from '.-'>. .. a Marseilles. if a circular Range of Hills, on the other, itfclf as it were in the Focus, will pretty well admit of a cool Retreat in the Sum- mer-time. Of tiiefe Baftides they reckon eight thoufand ia about nine Miles Compafs. The Town itfelf is very pleafant ; the chief Streets cxadly ftrait i and the Houfes well built. The principal Street,, which is call'd the Courfe (the Rendezvous of Company in Summer Evenings) is adornd with a double Row of Trees, with Seats under them, and Fountains at convenient Diftances. The Hotel deVille is a fine Building, and the Front adorn'd with good Sculpture by Monfieur Tuget, a very celebrated Artift-. The great Room above is hung round the upper Part with the Pidures of their Confuls. On one fide, is a large Hi- ftory-Piece of the young King [_Louis XV. ] brought by Nep- tune on a large Shell drawn by Sea-Horfcs, accompanied by Tritons, &c. and conduced by Mercury to Marfeilles •■, where, on the Shore, are the Magiftrates of the City ready to receive him : A little Angel, or Genius, puts a Crown on the King's Head. At the upper-end of the Room, is the late King [Lc«/jXIV.3 receiv'd by the City of Marfeilles, reprefented by a Woman in white and blue Drapery, on her Knees, prefenting the Arms of the City, which are of the fame Colours [Field Argent, a Crofs fotmee Azure *.] Under it is writ, as follows : IMMORTALI GLORIiE LUDOVICI MAGNI REGIS CHRISTIANISSIMI rOPULI SUI ET TOTIUS ORBIS DELICIARUM SEMPER AUGUSTI ATQ; UBIQ; VICTORIS OMNIUM MASSILIENSIUM NOMINE ^TEFvNI OBSEQUII MONUMENTUM HOC DICARUNT MATTH: FABRE dr CONSULES IT ANGELUS TIMON ASSESSOR. IN AMORIS, FIDEI, ET VENERATIONIS ARGUMENTUM, ANNO SALUTIS. M.DC.XCVI. * This I took for granted to be the Arms of Marfeilles, being prefintcd by a Figiire- which reprefents that City; and do dill believe them to be fb, at this Day; tho' Mr. Dacier, in his Annot. io Horace, Epift. ij-. fays, the ancient Arin^ oi Marfeilles, as thole of Veli.i, which Cities were both built by the Phocians in the time of Servlus TuUius, [fufti/i fays, Tarquiti] were a Lion: for that a Lion was the Arms of xheFhoci/ins. Bi.it> tiie Arms of Marfeilles, fince the times of Clinftianiry, mi^ht very likely be chang'd from a Lion to a Crols. This ^4 Marseille s. "This is a moft profound Compliment made by the People of .Marffilles, with the ftrongcft Profeillonsof Love, Fealty, and ■Veneration, rei Genitrix. Under thy Safeguard, O Holy Mother of God. At Genoa. Sub Umbra Alarum Ttiarum. Under the Shadow of thy Wing5. And, In Te, Nomina, Jperavt. In thee, O Lady, have I put my Truft. Terras appropriated to the Almighty, but by thefe People tranf- ferrd to her. I noted down thefe few, which were then a D 2 Novelty, * Hornet alludes to a like Cuftom prevailing in his Time. ■ ■ Me Tabula facer Votiva furies indic/tt, nvidn Huffmdijfe Potenti Vejiimen(a Maris Deo. Lib. i. Od. v. 19 Me in my vow'd Pifture, the I'acrcd Wall declares t' have hung My dank and dropping Weeds, To tTie ftein God ot Sea Milton. |b S T. R E M O. Novelty, and may fervc as a Specimen of Multitudes more to the fame purpofe, which I have Iccn fmce *. From that Eminence, where the Church (lands, we had a View of the Grounds about the Skirts of the Town, where we faw Corn, Vines and Olives growing all together, and fometimes Almonds and Figs among them, with Palm-trees frequent in the Town and about it ; from whence, as I was told, are gather'd the Dates that I had fecn at Marfeilles. Churches with thefe forts of Titles, Madona da Tort a, « la, Guarda, &c. are pretty frequent upon the Sca-Coaft, efpecial- ly where there arc Ports. There are of the fame fort upon the Coafts of France. At our Arrival at St. Remo, we were told that a Genoefe. Vcflcl we had feen at fome diftance the Day before, was taken by the Turks; we faw the Turkifl} Veflcls alfo, two of them: but the French being at Peace with the Turks, they did not at- tack us ; for 'twas a French Veflel I had the good fortune to be aboard, or I might poflibly have paid zWiixt to Algiers, which had not been much with my Inclination. Finding the Wind ftill contrary, and the Captain giving no great Encouragement of its changing, I got my things from on board, and hired a Guide and a Couple of Mules, and on Sunday May 1 2, fet out from St. Renio for Genoa. 'Twas a Journey of three Days, ninety Miles : As for the Road, 'twas pretty much in Extreams, either very good or very bad, but much the moft of the later ; generally along the Brinks of vaft high Mountains, the Path very narrow and very rugged i the Precipices fteep, in fome places almoft perpendicular ; and for the Depth ! tho' a fmall Part of it would be enough to do a Man's Bufi- neis cfFedually, fhould he be fo unfortunate as to tumble down i .11 J ] ■ ' ' ' 11 I 1 1 I ■ * The Creeks arc not a Jot behind the Romanifls in the Particularity of their AddrelFes to the Blcfll-d Virgin, as n,ay be feen in iiveral of their Offices; ineeayia Gioroye, o-iJffoD ^fia«. O Mother of God, Holy above all, fave ui. 'EtJ ai y.H t«« lAn'Sas the Difpofition of them I obferv'd to be different, in the different Places through which I pafs'd. In thele Parts the Vines were planted in Rows, which anfwer'd regularly each way, about four Yards diftant from each other : the Bodies of the Vines, about Icven Foot high (ftrengthened by Stakes) fupported a flat Roof made of their Branches, which were tied down to a Frame of Cane, fo that for the Compafs of a large Field you might walk as in a continued Arbour. We law many Nurfcries of Cane planted for that purpofe. I crofs'd abundance of little Rivers, which were moft of them ford- able at that time. I llippolc they had not run very far ; but took their Rile among fome of the neighbouring Mountains on my left Hand, and emptied themfelvcs into the Sea on my right. The little Towns and Villages at the Foot of the Mountains along the Sea- fide, were prettier than any of their Size I have met with elfewhere. As Geiioa is a very fine City it fclf, lb the little Places under its Dominion were in their proportion fuit- able. The Door-cafes in thclc little Towns were many of them Marble, fo were the Window-frames and Stairs : But, Marble is no Rarity in thcfc Parts, and nootherwile coftly, than by the Labour of working it. At Sputornc, a Imall Town in this Road, I met with the for- rowful Mother of a Youth who was in the Veilcl taken by the Turks the Friday before. AT S A V o N A. Genoa. AT Sa'vona there is a ftrong Citadel, and a pretty Harbour. At Alenzano they were building a great many Barks of Icveral Sizes. From thence to Uftri is a bad way, rough, and full of Precipices: but from t//?r/to G^tf/z, which is ten Miles, is not only an excellent Road, but adorn'd all the way with continual Buildings and Plantations. In the Intervals between the Villages were levcral Country Scats, and Ibmeofthem very fine ones. When wc came to Sejfri, and efpecially to S. Tietro d'Arena^ [call'd by the Country People 'PJederino~\ the Buildings ftill mended : In the laft we pafs'd by fevcral Palaces very magnifi- cent, and finely adorn'd with Marble ; others painted on the out- fide with Ornaments of Arcliitecture in the fame manner as they-, arc at Genoa. GENOA. AT my Entrance into Genoa, I pafs'd by the Lantem* Tower, which is for lighting Ships in the Night ; and fo along the Sides of the Harbour, which is a large one; and had, as I went along there, a very fine View of the City. There were in the Harbour five Gallics with Slaves : and, as I was told, they are not to exceed that Number, being oblig'd to it by Powers ftronger than thcmfelvcs. I had Opportimity of feeing but little of this fine City, being obliged to purfue my Journey on- wards with what convenient Speed I could. In order to which, I hir'd a Felucca that Night to go off next Morning; but the Wind proving contrary, the Felucca would not ftir ; fo I was forc'd to alter my Meafures : for thofe Fellows care not how little they labour at the Oar ; therefore will not put out but when they have a Profpeft of a Sail's doing their Bufincfs ; and in any confi- derable Voyage, the Italian Sailors, and the French too, are very different from ours. Tis not enough for them to have a fair Wind ; but they mufl: flay two or three Days to have it fettled, before they will hoifl up Sail. I have Reafon to lay this upon my own Experience of the later ; our Captain at Marfeilles having fo long waited the fettling of the Wind there, as (had he made ufcof it in the beginning) would have brought us to Leghorn^. by the time wc got out of Port. But to return from thisDi- grcllion. Being difappointed of my Felucca, I ftay'd that L Day n i4 Genoa.' ■' - " Day to fee a little of the Town, and it truly defcrves its Epithet of Genoa la Siiperba. The Town in general makes a very fine Appearance, and the principal Palaces are extremely noble. The Strada Nnova con- fifts almoft all of fuch, being moft of them all over Marble, and the Architeclure magnificent. Tis a great Difadvantage to them that the Street is cxcefli vely narrow : but, a Reafon is af- fi'Tn'd for the Streets being fo here, and in other Cities of /Wy, that 'tis for the fake of the Shade. The Painting the Outfide-of the Houfes is very frequent ; fomc with hiftorical Subjcds, or Landskape, Perfpeftive, 6^0. but many with Pillars, Cornices, and other Ornaments of Architeclure, reprefenting fuch real ones as had been proper in their Place. Againft thefe laft an Objec- tion has been made, " That it puts us in mind of fomething that " is wanting." Tis true, the Reality is wanting, and would ftiU be wanting, tho' other painted Ornaments had been made there, rather than thefe: but, if any fort of Painting be allow'd, why not that which reprefents fuch Ornaments, which, if real, had been of all others the moft proper in its room ? The Author lir. Addifon. of this Objection is truly a great one 5 but this great City does likewifeon her part demand fo much Juftice from the Traveller, (who cannot but be delighted with her Beauties) as to oblige him to confider at leaft, whether fuch fort of Ornaments are indeed to be accounted fo ill-judg'd or no. The Churches of Genoa are fome of them very fine, efpecially thofc of the Aymunciata and St. Cire, in which you fee nothing but the fineft Marble of fcveral Colours ; rich Gilding and Paintings, and even incumbcr'd with Ornaments. Among the reft, vaft Numbers of the ZkZ'///-^ Fotiva, and other Vows, in Silver, Mother of Pearl, &c. of Legs, Arms, Hearts, and almofl: all Parts of human Body, hung up lEx voto'} upon Recovery from Ailment in fuch Part, as is there reprcfented. The Ufe of thefe is lb frequent all over Italy, that in the prin- cipal Cities, you fee fome Silvcr-imiths Shops intirely furnilh'd with them ; infomuch that they feem to deal in nothing elfe : as there are other Shops, and whole Streets of them, (particular- ly at Rome and Lorcto) that deal in nothuig but I3eads and Rofaries, little Crucifixes and Madonna's, of Brafs and other Mctak5 and thefe Artifts, like 'Demetrius that made Silver Shrines Genoa. 25 Shrines for 'Diana, by this Craft have their Wcakh. At the Weft End of the Anmmc'iata is a Laft Supper of Camillo Trocacino, [large] not feen to advantage ; the Light of the great Window over it, and of the Door under it, glaring in your Eyes. The Cieling is painted by Francefchino Bolognefe, and other modern Mafters. In St. Lcji^is's Chapel, in the fame Church, there is a good Pidurc of that Saint kneeling before an Altar, with his Crown and the reft of his Regalia at his Feet : great Devotion is exprcfs'd in the Countenance. There is a Crucifix of white Marble, in another Chapel, in a Niche, where a real Light is let in fomewhere from above, accom- panying a rcprefented one of carv'd and gilded Rays, which has a very good Eflfcd. I faw fcveral fuch afterwards at Rome, where the Light tranfmitted thro' a yellow Glafs (efpecially when the Sun happen'd to (hine through it) falling in with thofe gilded Rays, and fo ftriking on the Figure, gave a furpri- /^ fing Beauty to it. The Church of St. Thil'ippo Neri is painted by Tarodi, a M after now much efteem'd in Genoa. In the Church of St. Luke is a Pifture of the Holy Family, where an old Man with a fort of Garland about his Head, is entertaining the Blejfed Virgin and the Chriji with a Leflbn on the Baflbon. The Church of St. Cire has a double Row of curious Marble Pillars, large, and all of one entire Piece ; which they told me coft fix hundred Spanifh Piftoles each : — but all they fay of that kind is not to be depended upon. The Altars on both fides of the Church with their little Chapels, do each of them belong to fome Nobleman of Genoa -, and it feems as if each ftrove to out-do the other in Richnefs and Beauty of Ornament. The Side-Chapels in other Places are likewifc appropriated to particular Families. The Church of St. A'inbrofe has fome vaft Marble Pillars, each of one piece, with fome good Paintings. In the Church of St. Maria de Carignano are four large Statues of white Marble, which ftand adjoyning to the four great Pillars which fupport the Cupola. The St. Sebaftian and the Beato Alejlandro Satili by ^iiget, are both good ; and that of St. John by Tarodi [Brotherto the Hiftory-Paintcr of that Name] is fo too. A fourth of St. Bartholomew (^what Author, I know E not) 2(5 Genoa. not) is but indifferent. There is in this Church a Hiftoiy-piecc, laid to be of Vandyke (and has a good deal of him) St. Max- imin-, Bifhop of Marfeille., adminiftring the Sacrament to St. Marv Magdalene ; that they told me is the Story ; but cither » A Term my Cicerone * was out in his Account, or Marfeille muft have rtiey give. the jjj,^,^^,^,^.y (.j^j-jy provided with a Bifhop. There is in this Cliurch cf'pedaiiyTn a fine Piclurc of St. Francis hy Giiercm del Cento. The Church fome Pans ft^uds on the Top of a Hilli and I went up the Cupola of it; '*' ^"^■'' from whence I had a fine View of the City, St:^., and the ad- jacent Mountains : The feveral Terraces on the Outfide of the Cupola, and other Parts of the Church, are all of Marble: but that is no Rarity here 5 for, bcfides the fine white Marble of Carrara., which is not far off, the nearer Mountains on each iidc Genoa afford great Quantities of other forts. In the Town-Houfe, one great Hall is painted in Frefco, Cieling and Sides, by Francefchino of Bologna. There is an- nother Room (as my Guide told me) painted by Solymini of Maples-, but the Senate was fitting there, and I could not fee it. Over the Door of the Arfcnal, I fawthe Roftrimi of an old Roman Ship ■-, 'tis of Iron, with the Rcprefentation of a Boar's Head at the End; the Neck -of it is hollow; the Sides of that arc cat through with Ruft in fome places: 'twas found in clean- ing their Port, as the Infcription under it fcts forth. 'Tis plac'd as looking through a fort of Window, and, I believe, tile ^ whole length of it is not feen : about half a Yard of it appears ; but the rcil may probably be no more than a further Continua- tion of the lame Iron which is in view ; within which ('tis Jikely) went the Beam of Timber 'twas fix'd upon. If this be, (as the Infcription lays it is) tlic only original one hitherto iceia, (though thofc on the Colnmna Rofirata in the Capitol at Rome, arc doubtlcfs authcntick Rcprclentations) it muft ccc- tainly be cftccm'd a xcxy valuable Rarity. As I was going about the Town, I obferv'd on the principal Gates fome pieces of great Iron Chains hung up on each of them j rlicic my Guide told .me were brought from a Port of the 'P/'- fmis., which, ( while they were a Republick ) they had near Leghorn. Thefe '^Pifans had taken fome Gallics from the Genoefe, which the Genoefe retook ; broke the great Chain which was to fecurc the Gallics in tlie Harbour, and brought away the -2 - Gallies, Ji///^ ////J at /'.ly. :2,0. aMt\ft/'////l, z'// //l'///^. VETV^TIOia^ HOC .^VI ROMA^STI Rostrum y^ expurga'ndo portu anno 3idxcvii erutum unlctjm HUCUS'q VI$UM,EXLM.Ii& MA30RUM TX RE NAUTICA GLORIA DIC AVERE CON CIVETS. S/TJ^riMn^^L^^ ^ 6^/:n'^m.oU'i^?7z. ./^. fs. G E N O A. S A R 2 A N O. M A S S A. VJ Gallics, Chain and all, which they diftribiited in pieces, as above-mention'd. After I had left Genoa, I was told of a Law they have there againft Sodomy, in thefc Words : Contra natnram luxnrians, ^Pro prima vice poena folidorum duodecim condemnetitr j pro fecunda vice, poena folidorum viginti i pro tertia, igne creme- tur ; niji tamen titulo fanitatis id fecerit •■> eo cafu, ab urbe eji- ciatur, tanquam fajiidiofus. How they explain the Titulo fanitatis, I could not learn. However it be, they feem willing to give a Salvo even to the third Offence. Having taken this fhort View of Genoa, I rcfolv'd to attack the Mountains again, and took Poft next Morning for i^^r^s^^/d?, fomctimes Horfes, Ibmetimes Mules, according as the Roads would admit. When I came to Sarzano, 1 had done with the Mountains : the Country was then plain, and the Roads good ; lb from thence 1 took a Poft-Chaife to Tifa, and lb to Leghorn. I pafs'd through Mafa -, and near Carrara, where are the fa- mous Rocks of white Marble, which llipply all Europe for Statues, and other fine Works. The Duke of Mafa's Ter- ritory is but fmall, yet by fqueezing his Subjeds, he makes fhift to keep up the Port of a Prince as to himfelf, and is laid to keep a gay Court. He was at that time (I think) in France. On my road this way, I faw a young Lafs tolerably well drefs'd, fine yellow Shoes, and Icarlct Stockings, riding aftridc on an Afs. Such Sights were afterwards more frequent. I forbear to fay any thing now of Tifa, Leghorn, or RomCy (whither I went at this time) or any other Places I did re-vifit, choofing to referve what I have to fay of thefc Places 'till 1 come again to them. A F T E R a Ihort Stay at Rome, I came to Reggio [in Lombar- dy~\ in Company with a Milanefe Baron. We fet out about Sun- fct, and traveird all Night. Being a little fatigued that Day, 1 was very fleepy in the Chaife ; and every time I began to nod, my Baron gave me a Shake, or a Touch of the Elbow, with thefe awakening Words, Si dermis, moreris ; If you flecp, you die ; 5 (for wc fpoke Latin^ I being then but very tlcndcrly furnilh'd E 2 with 28 ' T O R N I E R r. with Italian) and enforc'd his Elbow-Arguments with Exam- ples of Ibme terrible EfFcds of flceping in the Campagna of Rome, to thofe who come out thence during the Time of the Heats 5 for this was about the middle of June. We came to Tornieri-, which is 105 Miles from Rome, before we went to Bed i but that was for Expedition 5 for the Danger of fleeping does not continue for above thirty Miles from Rotne. The perfeiflly fuperl^itious Caution of the Romans, as to what I have been Ipcaking of, is very great. For, for thofe that have been any time in the City, to go out of it, and lleep within the Cam- pagna-, is efteem'd Death : On the other, hand, for fuch as live \\\x!i\zCampagnay and come into Rome in the time of the Heats and fleep there, is efteem'd Death likewile. This Notion had fuch weight with a Prieft, who belong'd to a Convent at fome diftance from Rome, and was Tutor to the Sons of the Houfe where we lodg'd, that having occafion to come to Rome in the Time of the Heats, and vifiting there the Parents of his Pupils, (we were there at the fame time) though he ftaid in Town two Nights, he kept himfelf awake (drinking Qiiantities of Tea, ^c.) all the time : Which was the more extraordinary, it being the- general Cuftom of the Italians, befides the Night-reft, to go- to fleep for two or three Hours after Dinner in the hot Wea- ther. Some, I have been told, carry it fo far, that they would not change their Room, nor even have their Bed rcmov'd to an- other fide of the fame Room, upon any account. Mtafuring of THE Way of nieafuring of Time in Italy, appears pretty '^""'' odd to a new Comer : It founds a little ftrangely to hear them talk of fifteen or twenty a-clock : for they reckon round all the twenty-four Hours. The fetting of the Sun, or the ringing of the Ave-Mary-^oW, which is fomewhat after, in ibme Places,, is what they begin from ; fo that if the Sun fet at Eight a- clock Englifljy then Nine is one Hour, and fo on, till the Sun fet again, which is twenty-four. But the Compafs of the Clocks rarely goes any farther than twelve; in many Places, no more than fix ; and fo begins again ; lb that when a Clock ftrikes three, at one time it is to be underifood as three, at an- other as nine, at another as Jiftee?i, at another as tiventy-one r The general time of the Day is Guide fufficient foryoutoknow: which. R E G G I O. 29 which of the Threes it is. By this way of mcafurlng from Sun-fet, the Noon-hour (and indeed every other) is continually varying ; it being Mid-day fomctimes at fixtcen Hours, and fomc- times at nineteen J and lb at all the intermediate times : fothat 'tis impoflible for a Clock or Watch which is let the Italian way to go exaftly right any two Days together: therefore they alter them once a Fortnight ; and in the mean time, make allowance for the Difference. It feems as if the Contrivers of this way of reckoning the Time, [beginning from the Setting of the Sun] took their Hint from the Mofaic Account of the Creation, and the Exprcf- fion there us'd, And the Ei'ening and the Morning "jvere the jirft T)aj. In Rome, and fome other Places, the Clocks Itrike the Hour twice, after about a Minute's Paufe between. O N my Road to Reggio, I faw a Pilgrim rcpofing himfelf with a vaft heavy Crofs, a perfect Tree, lying by him, which' after fome time he began to tug at, and raifing one End, got it upon his Shoulder, and putting the Crofs-bcam before his Breafl-, the other end lying on the Ground, march'd along with it 5 which (according to the Account of the Time, and the Size of the Timber) feem'd to be the fanK we faw afterwards at i? u a: OU R Approach thither was by a rais'd Way, which we went along, Ibme time before we enter'd the City ; not unlike that as we enter Cambridge from Huntingdon. But, if we com- pare the Roads, we muft not compare the Univcrfities. That of Tadiia is not now in lb flourifhing a State, as it has been. The fame may be faid (and that in a much greater degree) of the City in general, Tis cncompafs'd with a double Wall ; the inner, which is the ancient one, is very ruinous ; and the outer (a Fortifica- tion made by the Venetians) is but in a bad Condition. Here is truly Rus in Urbe ; for a great deal of Ground within the Walls is unbuilt, and where it is built, the Streets arc in feve- ral places over-run with Grafs 5 for a great many confiderable Houfes arc uninhabited. Some of the beft are in the Nature of Villa's to fome of the noble Venetians. That of the Fofcari has a Court before it, which to an Antiquary would be the moft precious in the World, and preferable to one furrounded with the ftatclicft Porticoes or noblcft Ornaments. Tis the Arena of the ancient Amphitheatre of 'P/^.^/w, and Ibmc Pvuins of the Amphitheatre itfelf remaining are its Walls, butfomewhat debas'd with modern Reparations. ' ' Of the Churches, that of St. Ginjtina is much the fincft, as to the Struclurc, though St. Antonio's, does farout-flrip it, as to the Devotion of the People. The great Reibrt of the Devout to this Church, arifes from its being poflcis'd of the Body of that Saint ; who, xax' ii,o^h, is tliere call'd // Santo : though, by the by, as great a Saint as he was, he has turn'd the Bleffed z Virgin Padua. 57 Virgin out of doors ; for the Church was formerly dedicated to her, but fince he fet footing there, it is no longer hers. The whole Church is very rich in Monuments, filvcr Lamps, and other Ornaments -, but the Capella del Santo [the Chapel of the Saint] is fo in a much more extraordinary manner. There his Body is depofited in a rich Tomb of white Marble, the upper part of which is an Altar 5 it ftands Ifolata, as they call it i that is, not joyncd to any Wall or Pillar, but fingle by it felf, fo as that you may go quite round it, and view it on every fide : there are fome Chinks between the Stones, on the back part of it, through which there palfes from his Bones (as they tell you) an aromatick Scent. Such a Scent there cer- tainly is, but That may be accounted for without a Miracle. Three Sides of the Chapel are fill'd with Baflb-Relievoes in white Marble, reprefenting the Hiftory and Miracles of the Saint : They are moft of them excellently well done, by Sa7i- fovino, and other very good M afters* : The fourth is open to* Tu'.Ho the Church. There are two great Silver Candlefticksfupport-^'°7H^|.,.°^,.. ed by Angels finely done in white Marble by ^Tarodio--, befides mo Campat;- near forty filver Lamps continually burning. The Refort to"^^^'^°"^'^""" this Chapel, and indeed to the whole Church, for the fake of this Saint, is incredible ; fcarce yielding toxhc Cafa Santa + itfclf -j- r^i? hp/v Hither Ibmetimes come Pilgrims from very diftant Places ; and """A "/ ^°" the Concourfc from the ncighbourmg Cities is very great. Hcrc'^^ they hang up their Vows ; here they rub their Beads, and Fore- heads too upon the facred Marble, after they have greedily drank up the precious Scent at their Noftrils. In ihort, however thin of People the other Parts of Tadua may be, this Church is always fufficicntly crowded. In the Choir are fine Bas-Reliefs, in Wood, by Andrea Briofco, Anno 1 5 1 5 ; others in Brafs, by Giacomo Velano-, Difciple of 'Donatelli ■■> Scripture Stories. Near the Choir, hangs a Pidure of St. Antonio, which they fay is an Original, done from his own Face. The Infciiption tells us he died Anno 1231, at at is 36; a young Age to have attain d to fo great a Reputation for Sandity ! Behind the Choir is an additional Building, which they call the Sanduary, a Ro- tonday begun thirty Years ago, and not quite finilh'd when we were there in 1720. 'Tis richly adorn'd with Marble, and has fonic good Statues of Tarodio. Behind tlie Pulpit is an old 38 Padua. old Chapel [Oi* St. Felix'], where there is the CL'Ucih.xion of our Saviour, the Cafting Lots for the Garment, &c. finely painted in Frcfco by Giotto, and the beft prcferv'dof any thing I have lecn of that old Maftcr. There is another Chapel, all hung round with Vows 5 among which there is a pretty odd one of a Man, who, they tell you, was wrongfully impriibn'd ni a Tower : He implor'd the Alllftancc of St. James, who came, and gave the Tower a Tip, to make it lean a little on one fide ; and out crept the Prifoner at the bottom : And the Repre- fcntation of this Matter, is the Subjed of the Votive Pidure hung up there. I know not how St. James, or any luch old- falhion'd Saint, came to be in fo much Credit with him : for, generally fpcaking, the Scripture-Saints hold no degree of Efteem, if compar'd with thofc of the modern Kalendar. Near this Church, is what they call the School of St. Anto- nio. There are at Venice a great many Buildings of this na- ture, which are Meeting-places for certain Confraternities, upon religious and charitable Accounts. The Infide of this School is all painted in Prefco ; the SubjecT, the Life and Miracles of the Saint. Several of them are done by Titian. In one of them, a new-born Infant, at the Command of St. Antonio, pronounces who was liis Father. The Man had come home from abroad, and found his Wife brought to bed : He was not fatisfied as to the Child, thinking he was not his own. St. Antonio, knowing the Sufpicion to beunjiift, to clear the Innocence of the Mother, gives the new-born Infant the Power of Speech : The wile Child knew his own Father, and immediately claim'd him. In another, a Youth had kick'd his Mother, and at Confefllon dcclar'd it to S\.. Anthony : St. Anthem told him, he deferv'd to have his Foot cut olf for fo v/icked an Ad j the Youth, ftruck with Remorlc, immediate- ly went home, and cut off his own Foot. The Mother went and told St. Anthony what had happen d. St. Anthony came, let his Foot on again, and pcrfcdly hcal'd him. In a third, a Soldier had kill'd his Wife, on Sufpicion of her having play'd iiim foul play. Ashe was making off, St. Anthony met him in the way, and bade him go back ; told him his Wife was not dead ■■, that flie was alive, and innocent. A great many other Stories of the like fort, are pauited round by other Matters, which I Padua. I did not much regard, nor fhould I have been fo particular in thele, but that I found them fo well told by Titian. 'Tis the general way in moft of the Convents, to have the Life and Miracles of their Founder, or fome confiderable Saint of their Order, painted round their Cloyiler, in Icvcral Compartiments under the feveral Arches : and be the Cloyfter never lb large, they feldom fail of Miracles to go round with it. At a little diftance from this Church and School, is an Eque- ftral Statue in Brafs of Gattamelata, a General of the Venetians. The Church of St. Gmjiina was defign'd by Talladio : 'tis truly a noble Strudure, and moft richly adorn'd on the Infidc with Marble, Paintings, and Gilding. I cannot fay much as to the Beauty of the Outfide. In the firft place, you don't come well at the Sight of any part of it, except the Fafade, and that is ut- terly unfinifh'd, left only in rough Brick-work, to be cover'd j 7 20 fome time or other with a fine Front of Marble. The feveral lefler Cupola's, which go along the Nave, though they look ex- tremely well within the Church, have not fo good an Effed on the Outfide 5 but feem'd rather to embarrafs it, according to fuch Views as we had of it, at fome diftance; But the Infide is truly beautiful, well lighted, having fair open Views, enlivcn'd, but not incumber'd with Ornaments. I know not whether (after St. 'Peter's at Rome) any Church I have feen, would afford a better and more agreeable Variety of Profpefts, if well taken in Perfpedive. The Archited indeed feems here clearly to have out-done himfelf, if we compare any of his other \\^orks (tho' he has done many fine ones) with this. As the whole is finely adorn'd with Marble, fo is the Pavement extremely rich : The Figure of the Dcfign in the Difpofition of the Marbles, is various in the feveral Chapels 5 and in the feveral Parts of the Nave ; the Fancy in fome places is a little odd : A good deal is laid in fuch Form and Shades, as to reprefent Cubes fct on one Corner: One Chapel rcprefents Beams fct a-crofs, and Hollows between them, ^lare. How well judg'd, when the Floor you are to walk upon is (as it fhould be) really even, to con- trive induftrioully, with great Art and greater Coft; to make it appear uneven. One muft not over-much regard the Ac- counts they give fometimes of the Expcnces of fuch Works : ' but they told me, that tliis Pavement alone coft three hundred thou- 39 4-0 Padua." thovilaiid Silver Ducats, which are worth about 3 j. 4^. or 3 s. 6 d. apiece. [At 3 s. 4- d. apiece, itcomcsto 50000/. Sterling.] The lame Pcrlba told me they had ofter'd eighty thouiand Crowns to ha\c the Facade adorn'd with Marble; but that it would not be undertaken for that Price. The Friars of this Convent [Benediifines'] are rich enough to do almoft any thing. There is within the Church, Ti^ncdead ChriJI-, Blejfed Virgin, &c. in white Marble, oi'Parodio Genoefe. There is a Well in the lame Church co\cr'd with a Grate, and cnconipafs'd witha Parapet-Wall, in which arc preferv'd the Bones of a great many Martyrs, who fuffcr'd Death (as they fay) in a large open Place before that Church ; part of which is from thence call'd Campo Santo. Hither the Pilgrims come to rub their Beads upon the Stones that arc about the Well, and kifs them with great Devo- tion. They arc not content with lets than two of the four Evangelifts, St. Matthc-jn and St. Luke ; both whofe Bodies they fay they have there, and whofe Tombs they fhew ; and infift, that, tho' they pretend to have a St. Luke at Venice, This of ^Padiia is the true one. They told us, that the then prefent Pope SjCletn. XL] had indeed declar'd in favour of the other ; but Time would come, they did not doubt, whenTheir's would be again pronounced The Authentick, as it had been in Times pafc. I faw a Fellow crawling on his Hands and Knees about the Tomb of St. Matthew. There arc fine Baflb-Relicvoes in Wood in the Stalls of the Choir. The great Altar-piece reprefents the Martyrdom of St. G'mftina •-, 'tis of Taolo Veronefe •■> the Defign feems a little confus'd, and not fo degage as moft of his other Works are. In an old Choir adjoyning, there is fome Paint- ing of Andrea Mantegna, and an Altar-piece finely colour'd by Hieronymo Rumani. There is a fubtcrraneous Chapel with a Corridore leading to it, painted in Frefco. This (as I re- member) they faid was St. Giuflina's Prifon. The Convent is very large ; one of their Cloyfters is furrounded with very old Painting in Frefco. They have a very fine Library with curious Pillars of Marble, and fine Carving in Wood ■■, for they pretty much ftudy the ornamental Part ; there is a fine Viflo through it and the Abbot's Apartment. Their Cellar is not worfc furnifh'd than their Library ; it has feveral large Vaults, with double Rows of Butts two Yards Diameter each, At Padua. 41 At the Church of the Emeritaniy the Engli^)-, though Pro- t'Cftants, have a Right of buryuig ; a Privilege not elfewhcrc allowed to thofe they call Hcrcticks. On each fide the great Altar, is a Saint painted by Giorgione. In a Side-Chapel, the Death of St. James by Andrea Mantegna, and the Death of St. Chriftopher by Giufto. There is a fine St. John of Gtiido in the Sacrifiy. At the Entrance of the Garden of Simples are Direclions for your Behaviour when admitt<:d. Hie Oculiy hinc Maniis, Sec. " Look, and welcome, but. Hands off." We faw there the Ju- juhe, which bears a Fruit fomewhat like an Acorn 5 we ate of them, at Venice. There was tlie Lentifco di Scio, the Flos 'Paf- Jionis, reprefcnting the Inftruments of the Paflion, and feveral African and other foreign Plants. The Garden of 'Papafai'a is very pleafant, with Statues and other fuitable Ornaments. From the Top of a Sumnier-Houfe in the middle of a Wildernefs or Maze there, we had a pleafant View of that part of the Town. There is a whole Houfe of Ar- bours, with Galleries, Chambers, and Beds of Earth inftead of Feather-beds, and all Paflagcs of Door-cafes, &c. as in a Houfe. . At the Garden Morojini., we faw the Tompelmns, a Species of Orange of a vafl: Size, an Eaji-Indian Fruit : 'tis ripe in May. The Gardener told us, he had four thoufand different Species of Plants. At the Talazzo di Mantua, we faw a Coloflal Statue of Her- ctiles, nineteen Cubits high : 'Twas made by Ammanati Fio' rentino. The Ujiiverfitv rs better regulated than it has been. There -are rone, or very rarely now, any of thofe * Chi-nja li. Murders that formerly were frequent. The Number of Students is nor fo great as it has been : and they have found a Neceflity of bring- ing it under better Regulations. All the Building belonging to the Univerfity is no more than the Schools in ours, and difpos'd in much the fame manner ; with Halls for Readings in the fe- veral Faculties ; for the Students lodge in the Town ; and fo too they do in moft of the other foreign Univerfities. The Arms of thofe that have been Redors, Profeflbrs, Svndicsor Counfellors, sindici. Conhiiani. are * That was tlie Word, when the Mohawking Scholars rambling among the Porticoes in the Streets a-Nights, knock'd down People, and murder'd them for Sport. V. Mif- fin. G ^1 P A D U A.' arc hung round the Porticoes within the Court. Of the Coun- fcllors there are twenty-two ; one out of each of the feveral. Countries, from whence Students come ; Englijh, Scotch-, S'C. as well as thofc of Roman-Catholick Countries. Among thofe of our Nation I obfcrv'd the Names oi Finch y IFilloughby, Stokeham, Fre-jnen-, &c. Beiides the Coats of Arms, there are Pictures and Cufts of fome of them. There is a Theatre for Anatomy, difpos'd in the fame manner as I fuppofe is ufual clfewherc. A Table for Diflcdion of the Body is in the Area, and but juft room to go about it. Galleries go round in feveral Heights, as narrow and fteep as well can be j that fuch Perfons as are in the upper ones may be the lefs hinder'd from feeing ^ but thole toward the Top, 1 think, cannot fee much. There are feveral Houfcs in the Town painted on the Outfide by Taolo Veronefe, Giorgione, &c. The Knockers at the Doors of fome of the principal Houfes arc finely imagin'd j Animals of feve- ral forts. Foliage, &c. like fome of the antique Lamps. Mr. Talman had feveral of them defign'd by Signior Grifoni to bring into England. At the Cafa Varefe is a pretty good Colledion of Pidiyes, antique Buds, and Statues. The fuppos'd Bones of Antenor arid Livy are almoft in as high Efteem with the Tadiians as thofc of their two Evangelifts; and the two former may in time become Saints, as Boetius is now at 'Pavia. The Tomb of Antenor is plac'd at the End of a Street, (I think 'tis that of St. Lorenzo) in a Row with two others 5 one of which is Zabarella., an ancient noble Taduayi. The Tomb of Livy is plac'd at the upper end of the Town^ Houfe, which is very large, and much refembles JVefiminfter- Hall: 'Tis up flairs. About the upper end there are fome old Paintings, much decay 'd •-, they arc faid to be of Giotto. To- wards the lower end is what they call the Lapis Vituperii. On this Stone 'twas anciently a Cuftom (not praftis'd of late) that if a Debtor would fit down bare-buttock'd, in a full Aflcm- bly, and fwearhimfclf not worth fuch a Sum, (about five Pound of our Money) he fhould be freed from his Debt, and all further Profecution of his Creditors. ."-. - — ■I Though r and this is frequently done by one Gondolier, for the hackney Gondolas have no more. At the fore-part of the Gon dola is an Iron Plate, rais'd about five foot, in figure not much unlike a Swan's Neck ; there are (a fort of) broad Teeth which go along the fore edge of it i and it terminates in a kind of Ax's Head at top. The Gondola is not a "Vefltl made for War, but by the formidable appearance in the Front of it, it feems to threa- ten as much as a Roman Roftrum. Tho' the Gondoliers arc a Sett of Fellows that have all their paces, they do not in a literal Senfe look one "ivay and row another ; they row (landing ; one at the fore-part of the Gondola, and the other behind. The beft place ina.G^»^tf/^, and That you compliment your< Friend with, is on the left hand ; die Reafon is, that you have there a fuller View of the fore Gondolier, who ftands on the right fide of the Gondola, in cafe you would give any Diredions to him. But they are very exacl in Italy to give the right hand in a Coach to the moft honourable Perfon. 'Tis time I fhould fay fomething of the City itfelf ; I have been led infenfibly to fpeak of the Gondolas firft ; and, I hope, nor altogether amifs ; for they arc made ufe of fometimes as a Con- veyance to the City, as well as in it. T O begin then with the difiant View of the City : Tis % Pleafure, not: without a Mixture of Surprize, to fee fo great a City as Venice vcvv^ be truly call'd, as it were, fldaring on the Sur- face of the Sea ; to fee Chimneys and Towers, where you v/ould expect nothing but Ship-Marts. It ftands furrounded with Waters, at leaft five Miles diftant from any Land ; and is thus defended by its fluid Bulwark better than by Walls or Ramparts ; for, let the Venetians but pluck up their Poles out of the La- gune, and they may defy any foreign Veflcls coming near them by WatCi 5 and by Land there's no coming at them. Though 4^ Venice. Though the Excellence of Sannazaritis's, Eplgramhasmadeit fo generally known, I cannot forbear repeating it on this Oc- cafion. 'i ;■■• - ; ■ . i .''-^ji' ; ■ ■ '^y,.: . ' ■ Viderat Adriacis Venetam Neptunus in undis Stare urbem, & toti ponere jura mari. ' • Nunc mi hi Tarpeias quantumvis Jupiter arces Objice, & ilia tut Mania Mart is, ait. Si "Tela^o T i b r i m prafers, wbem afpice utramqucy lllam homines die as, banc fofiajfe D e o s. The following Tranflation was taken in part from Tate^ Mifcellany...>, .:. •. . i,...- ' . . Neptune faw Venice on the Adria ftand firm as a Rock, and all the Sea command ; If thou Tarpeian Tow'rs, great Jove, faid he. Prefer to thcl'e, and Tiber to the Sea, Compare the Cities, view 'em both, and then Own this was built by 'Gods, and that by Men, The * firfl Rife of Venice was owing to the terrible Havock made by Attila^ that Flagellum 'Dei-, that Scourge of God, (as he is call'd) on the Terra firma, when he routed the People from their Habitations, and drove all before him with Fire and Sword. Such as could, betook thcmfelves to the Banks where Venice now ftands, and there took Refuge; and the Repofc which was denied them on Land, they found amidft the Wa- ters. And as Romulus\ Rome was only Clay Cottages, and con- tinued Uttlc better, 'till Auguftus gave her Marble Palaces ; fo was * That i?, firft as to any thing confidcrablc : tho' the Iflands of the Lagiine where Venice now ftands, were inhabited long before ; but that was only by poor Filliermcn, till the l->cgi\uiing of the fitili Century; at which time the Rinlto being declar'd a Place of Refuge by the radaxns, who were Lords of the Illinds of the Lagtine, it began then to be flock. 'd to as 3 fafe Retreat, in times of Calamity and Diftrefs; which were brought upon them by the feveral Incurfionsof the Goths and Huns: of the Goths, firlf un- iLt Radagaijms in the Year 407; afterwards under Alaric, in the Year 41 3 i of the Huns under Astiln. as above-mentioned. Venice. 47 was the Original Venice Lateritia *, tho' it be now Mnrmorea , Romam La- for lb in facl: it now is, in a great mcalurc j Icvcral of its Churches, Ifenl'^"^^,.',^' . other piibhck Buildings, and the principal Palaces, being all of ream rciiqui. Marble; and not plain Marble only, but m\^\A\\'ixh Serpent inCy porphyry, and other richer Stones. That part of Venice we firll come to, is much broader than the other, which is in a great meafure taken up by the Arfenal. The great Canal runs through the nearer part of it, in the Figure of an S inverted >*■ the famous Bridge of the Rialto going over the middle of it. There is another confidcrable Canal called Canal Regio, but nothing fo great as the laft named : That Canal is ftrait : The leflcr Canals like Veins in a Body difperfc themfelves through cverypartof the City. Thefe Canals are the great Streets of Venice -, for, the Land-Paflages (which they call indeed no more than Calky Paths or Foot-ways) are much the lame with our Alleys in London. Nor do I know any thing fo like them as the Alleys by RomidCourt near Cov cat -Gar den. There is gene- rally little more room tlian for two to go a-breaft i and when you come to a Place big enough for a Boy to whip a Top in, they call it a Campo, Tho' the general and moft publick Pallage be by Water, there is a Communication between all the Land- Pallages (except thole of the Giiidecca) by Bridges ; of which, there are between four and five hundred. Thefe Bridges very rarely have any Battlements, and generally confift of one Arch, The Afcent to them is by Steps, made of what they call the Tietra dura, a fort of white Marble ; which is often fo flippery, it requires a careful footing. There is not fuch a thing as a Coach or a Cart to be fcen in all this great City : if there were, I know not where they muft drive them. Air weighty Burthens are carried by Water j all Vifits paid the fame way j and you have no more to do than ftep out of your Gondola into your Friend's Houfe. In fome few Places, they have what, they call the. Fun- * It was, in ftriftnefs, then not fo much as Lateritia. Reeds and Wood were the fird HouCes, in the Time of Al'.ric Afterward.?, upon the mifcrable Ddbuftion of the Cities on the Term Jirma, by Attil.t, the People that were driven from them having now no hopes of returning to their former Habitations, began by degrees to fettle them- il-lves in the Li'.gme; feichir.g away the Stones and Marble of thofe'demolifli'd Places to build themicives others more fafe in thofe Iflands. Appendix to PuffendorfV Introduce- wn to the Hifiory of the principal Kingdoms and States of Europe, ^S Venice. fnndamente between the Canals and the Houfcs, like the ^lays l^or jK^^yj] they generally have in the Towns of Holland, and in Ibmc Places here : Thofe that are on the Sides of Fleet-ditch arc moft like them of any that I know here. But for the nioft part the Houfes ftand directly in the Water ; with a pair of Stairs for conveniency of landing. We frequently lee Crab-fifh, left at Low- water, crawling on the Sides of the Houlcs. They call them Grafici teneri, tender Crabs, their Shells being foft. The Profpefts are often very agreeable as you pafs along the Canals : The perfpedive View through the Arches of many Bridges at once, in the leflcr Canals, and Palaces frequent in all, but more particularly adorning each fide of the great one, make the voyaging through thefe watry Streets very entertaining. I know not what there may be in other parts of the World ; but there feems fomewhat particular in this City, that diftinguiflies it from all others. I have feen i not only in its extraordinary Situation, but the very Look of the City itfclf; in the Appearance of the Nobles ; in theDiverfions of the People i a good deal in their Habits, efpecially thofe of the Women, which differ even from thofeof the other Cities of Italy. The Churches, Schools and Palaces, are many of them built in regular Orders of Architedure, and in a good Tafle, by 'Pal- ladia, Scamozz,i, Sanfovino, &c. The older ones have a fort of GothickYmcxy, which may be. call'd rich at leaft, if not beauti- ful. The outfidc Ornaments of each of thefe fcldom extend fur- ther than the Facade : there arc indeed fome Exceptions. 'Tisnot enough that the Churches, and other principal Buildings, abound with fine Paintings within j but you'll fee many private Houfes, and fome of them mean enough in other refpecls, ennobled on the outfidc Walls, by the Hands of Titian, Tintoret^ Taolo Veronefe, Giorgione, Tordenone, and other principal Venetian Mailers. This Pradicc in general is common enough in other Cities oi Italy \ but we do not often elfewherc meet with fuch Hands on the out fides of Houfes as we do here. The chief and much the moft beautiful Part of the City is the Tiazza di S. Marco. 'Tis of an oblong Figure, having the Church of St. Mark at one end, and that of St. Girnrniano at the other. On the Sides, are the Troctiratis ; the old on one fide, the new on the other. The Tiazza makes Venice. 49 a Return at a right Angle, towards the Sea ; nnd w ith it the new * ProcLiraties on one lide ; the 'Doge's Palace is on the other. This Return of the 'P/azzia is cali'd the ^Piazzetta, or little Place. On one fide the Tiaz:zetta [that next the 'Doge's Palace] is the Broglio, where the Noblemen meet and walk, and no other Perlbn is to intermix among them, or walk in that part while they are there, except barely to crols. I have I'een them (bme- times on the other Side, but the firft is that which they moft ulually frequent. They are lb civil as to take up no more than one fide at once. At the corner of the new Procuraties, juft as you turn out of the Piazza into the Piazzetta, (lands the Campanile [or Steeple] of St. Mark ■■, for in Italy the Stee- ples are generally leparate from the Churches. At the end of the Piazzetta next the Sea, are two + Granite Pillars; on the Top of one is St. Mark's'Llon, on the other is St. Theodore, and a Crocodile at his Feet. St. Theodore was the ancient Patron of Venice, but was forc'd to give way to St. Mark upon the arrival of his Body there. St. Theodore holds a Lance in his left I\and, and has a Buckler on his right j which they fay is a Symbol, denoting that Self-defence is the principal thing they aim at, and that they a'-e never forward to take up otfcnfive Arms but in cafe of Necellity. Notwithftanding this plaufible Explication they give of the Matter, it feems to have been the Sculptor's Blunder ; which the Venetian Engravers of thefc Days choofe rather to cover than account for, by putting the Lance in the right Hand, in the Prints they give us of him. Be- tween thofe two Pillars is the Place where Criminals are execu- ted : and 'tis faid that the noble Venetians won't by any means pals between them ; that they look upon it as ominous, and a Prefage that he that does it, fhall rnd his Days there. This Superftition had its Rife from the Example of the Doge Marino Falieri, who arriving at Venice after his Eledion, and not be- ing able to pafs under the Bridge of the Canal di S. Marco, the Waters being fo high, landed between thefe Pillars : which did • The Vrocurcitie, as they call them at Venice, (or Procuraties in EnglifJj) are Rani^cs of Apartments belonging to the Procurators of St. Mark. Somewhat mure v/ill be laid of thcle hereafter. t An JEgypti/in Stone i wherein are many Grains, or fmall Stones, diftinft; likethofl* of which Gravel confifts. I have fecn, in the Obelisks at Rome, whicli are of the i'mv- fort of Stone, empty Holes or Sockets, whence the fmatl Stones had been ftruck or pick'd ow. H 50 Venice. did indeed precede his ill Fate, but furcly did not caufe it. This Doge, not able to obtain the Juftice he demanded againfl Michael Sten, who had been too free with his Wife, or one of his Family, refolv'd to revenge himfclf by a Maflacrc of the principal Nobility ; but one cngag'd with him in the Confpiracy, \Bertrand ^elizzarre^ difcover'd it to the hiquifitors of State, who the fame Day cut off this Doge's Head in the firft Year Amclor. of his Government, and the ? oth of his Age. hi Memory of this Difcovcry they have now an annual Pro- cefllon round the 'Piazza di S. Marco on the 1 6th of April, St. Ifidore's Day ; and in the Hall of the Great Council, where are the Pidurcsof the "^Doges, with their Names, there is only a black Cloth in the Place of his, {per infanfta memoria didifho- nore^ for the unhappy Memory of the Difgracc, as hys Conrarini in his Hiftory of /'^.d, in the Form of a Bonnet : And from hence came the Original of the Ducal Corno or Horn ; fo named, from the pointed cvA of this Sleeve upon his Head. And at that time, it is laid, the Place firll received the Name of Veyiice ; for that Pepin would have the lile of Rialto, with the, other neighbouring Iflands, to bear the Nameof^«/V^, by which Name the whole vcneti or Province adjoining to th^t Larrune, was then call'd. Hciki*. They Ihew aUb the Crov/ns of Crete and Cyprus •■, the Vene- tians have the Crowns, and the 'Turks the Kingdoms. We law like- 54. Venice. likcwifc twelve Gold Brcaft-platcs, cnrich'd wkh large Pearls, and other Jewels, which bclong'd to the Ladies atfending the - Qiicen of Cyprus'^ ; and as many rich Ornaments for the Head, - which were for the Ladies of Helena the Emprefs. There were -a great many other rich Jewels, and curious Veflels of Rock- Cryftal, Agate, and I afpers, of which it were asendlefs, as ufelefs, to attempt an hiventory ; befides, that fomc of them have been . mention'd by others. Over the Door there is placed a very cu- rious Piece of Art, a St. Jerom in the Wildernels, in Mofaick : 'tis of a very good Defign, and particularly curious for the Work- manlhip : the Bits of Stone arc cxcelllvcly fmall, and fothey had need, for the whole Figure feem'd not above a Foot in length ; yet every part pcrfeftly well cxprefs'd ; not only in the principal Figure, but in his Companion-Lion, and the Landskapc. The 'Doge's Palace is contiguous to the Church of St. Mark : A Corner of the Church comes into the Court, and appears as a part of the Palace. At this Corner ftand two good Statues of Jldam and Kve-, made by Andrea Riccio a Tadttan. The Ar- chitecture of the Palace, on the Outfides which are towards the Tiazzetta and the Sea, is very odd and extravagant. There are two Heights of Porticoes which go all along j above, there is a flat Brick-wall carried up, without either Pillar or Pilafter j only variegated with differcnt-colour'd Bricks, and fome ill- fhap'd Gothick Windows. The depth of this plain Wall is more than that of the two Porticoes which are under it put together ; fo that it has a very heavy Look. The Pillars in the lower Por- • tico have no Bafe, and are fcarce half the lencth they fhould be ; fo * The Story that is told of the Method whereby the Venetians became poflefs'd of the Crown of Cyprus, and the Brcaft-plates of theft Ladies, has not all the CirCumftances of Honour that one could wifli. James, the laft King of Cyprus, coniidering the intire Friendfhip that had been kept up between his Anceftors and the Venetians, caine to Ve- yiia, and delir'd the Senate to tingle out one of the Nobleinen's Daughters, and adopt her as Daughter of the Commonwealth, in order to be his Wife. Accordingly they gave him in Marriage Katharine Cornaro, a very beautiful young Lady: upon which he return'd home, andliv'd in Peace. At his Death, leaving his Wife big with Child, he • ordain'd that flie and her Child fhould enjoy the Kingdom. The Child died foon after it was born: and the Venetians hearing of the King's Death, lent fome armed Gal- lies, under the Command of her Brother, George Cornaro. with the Pretence of a Com- pliment of Condoleance, in the Name of the Senate. Puiluant to the Inftruftions given . by the Senate, Cornaro no Iboner came before t'amagojla (the Metropolis of Cyprus) than he feigned himfelt fick, fo that he could nor go afliore; Upon the News of which, the Queen, with fomc of her Courtiers, came on board to vilit her Brother ; where flie ani ■ her Train were lecur'd ; and the Venetians furpriiing the City, fubdued it, and the whole -Kingdom. iee Appendix to Pulfendorf'j Introiiuciion. Venice. 55 ^o that you can hardly forbear imagining the other half to be in the Ground, and that they have funk beneath the heavy Weight a-top. The third Side [which goes along a narrow Canal] is built in a much better manner of Architecture, of the Tretra dura, a fort of Marble they have from IJlria : This Side has a very rich Look ; but whatever Beauty there is in it, is in a great meafure loft, for want of a due diftance to view it at, fo that you fee all forefliorten'd above you. On the other Side the Canal arc the Prifons 5 to which there is a cover'd Bridge of Communication from the Palace, for con- veying the Prifoncrs thither to be examin'd by the Magiftrates in the Palace. This Bridge they call (and juftly enough) Tonte de Sofpiri [the Bridge of Sighs] perhaps in allufion to the Scala Ge- mo7ii(e of old Rome- There is a Front of the Prifons towards the Sea, handfomly built by Sanfovino ; a double Row of Por- ticoes goes along three Sides of the Court within the Palace ; the Church of St. Mark is on the fourth. On the Top of the principal Stairs, which lead to the upper Portico or Gallery, are two CololTal Statues of white Marble, which are ufually call'd the Giganti ; made by Sanfovin, who was a very good Sculptor, as well as Archited : They reprefent Mars and iV^- tune : Thefe are intended to fct forth the Power of the V^ene- tians by Land and Sea. Among other Ornaments on thefe Stairs are reprefented fome Baskets of Medlars i and xhc Vene- tians, who are very fond of Conceits, have found out one in this : Thefe being plac'd as Ornaments to the publick Palace, the Rendezvous of the Magiftrates, and the Seat of Government, , and being a Fruit very harlh and unpleafant, till fully ripe, they tell you 'tis a Symbol or Emblem, denoting that the Admini- ftration of publick Affairs in a well-ordcr'd Government, ought ; not to be in the Hands of young raw Perfons, but thofc of ma- ture Age and Experience. As you go along the Porticoes, you fee feveral gaping Mouths, which they call the T>emmcie Secrete i ; they are to receive Informations, by Billets dropt in there, of any Oft^'cnccs commiried againft the Government; as importing of contraband Goods, fallc Coining, Abufcs in the Arfcnal, , Navy or Army ; publifhing prohibited Books, Cabals, or inter- mcdling with Affairs of States with many other Particulars in ' the feveral Branches of their Government. And there are .- InfcripK- 56 V E N I C F. ■Iiircriptions en tiic Wall, near each of the Mouths, to fhcw 'ievcrally what the Crimes arc that are to be inform'd of in each : what in this, and what in that, &c. The Cells that thefe Billets arc dropt into, have a proper Officer belonging to each, wliofe Buiuiefs is to mipecl thcie particular Matters, and make their Report to the Inquilitors of State, as fomc have told mc : others, that the Inquiiitors of State go from Box to Box, and inipcd them thcmlclvcs ; and that they keep the Keys of them. In this Palace are the fcveral Halls of the Magiftracy, and Courts of ]ufticc; for though it be called the 'Doge's Vahcc, he is lit- tlc'more than a Lodger in it : It is indeed the Palace of the Republick, the publick Halls and Offices belonging to them making much the greatcft part of it. The Stairs that lead from the upper Portico or Gallery into the Apartments, are rnofl richly adorn'd with Paintings, and Stucco [Plaifter-work] giltj the Stairs themiclvcs are of the fineft Marbles inlaid ; and now who would believe but thole who have fecn it, that thefe Stair-cales, and other Avenues adorned in like manner, with fuch cxcciuve Labour, Art and Expence, fliould be futfer'd to become pcrfed Houfcs of Office ; with fuch filthy Heaps, and nafty Lakes, even at the Entrance into the Hall of the creat Council, that one fcarce knows where to tread ? 'Twould make the Reader Tick to lay any more of it. But, this is a top Inftancc of the Venetian Liberty. 'Twould require a whole Volume to defcribc the Multitude of fine Paintings in the feveral Courts of Jul^ice, and the Apart- nicnts belonging to them. There are fomc few of Titian., but vaft Numbers of Taolo Veronefe, Tint or et, the Talma's, Baffano, and many others. I need not attempt a Delcription of the Particulars, there being feveral printed Accounts of them. The Hall of the Great Council (which would be a noble Room, but that it wants a little proportional Height) is fill'd with Paintings; Cicling, Sides, and Ends. The Subjeclsarc chiefly Hiftorical, relating to their own State: Embaffies; the Inter- views of fomc of their Doges with Popes; Expeditions; Victories ; taking of particular Cities ; ibme emblematical and pompous Pieces ; as, Venice triumphant, Emprcis of the Adriatick, Sec. mofl: remarkable for its Subjed: is that of Pope Alexander -the Third, putting his Foot on the Emperor Fredericks Neck. Another Venice. 57 Another particularly taken notice of for its vaft Size, is a Re- prcfcntation oi 'Taradife, by Tintoret : There are a Multitude of Figures in it ; but too much confus'd : Tliis is over the 'Doge's Throne, and almort takes up that whole End of the Hall. In the Hall of the College, (which is a fclcd Body of the No- bles, who difpatch Matters relating to Embaflies, and fome other publick Affairs) and in the Hall of the Council of Ten, are a great many Pieces of 'Paolo ; and fome of them excellent- ly good : efpecially thofe in the Place lall mention'd : Moft of his in thefe Apartments arc painted on the Cieling. I was particularly pleas'd with two of them -, one is Jove carting down Thunder upon Ibme Figures which reprefent ^o many Vices ; thefe are intended to fct forth the Offences which come under the Notice of this rigorous Council of Ten •■, whole Sentences are indeed as fo many Thunderbolts. Hard by, is an Angel with a Book, which is to reprefent the Decrees of this Council. The other is Juno, who is pouring down from Hea- ven, Gold, Jewels, Crowns; and among the refl, the Ducal Corno ; a Figure of a Woman below is receiving them on her Lap : This reprefcnts Venice-, and the Lion of S. Alark is by her. In this Palace is a little Arfcnal or Armory, which has a Communication with the Hall of the Great Council: In this Armory are kept a Number of Mufquets always charg'd, and ready in cafe of any fudden Tumult, or popular Infurrcifliou againft the Nobles while they are fitting j for them to lay hold of, and defend themfelves with. The Charges are drawn and renewed every three Months. Befides thefe neceflary Arms, there are others, old ones, kept more for Ornament than Ufe. And ibme Curiofities of other forts : in the firft place a Madonna of St. Ltike's painting ; the whole Gofpel of St. Mark wrote in Latin, in fuch a Figure as to reprefent the Pifture of St. Mark and his Lion ; the whole is within an Oval of eight Inches by fix. An Adam and Eve cut in Wood by Albert ©wrfT with his Penknife while he was in Prifon, as they tell the Story ; and for the fake of which he obtained his Liberty. Here they fhcw y^///7,!z's Helmet, Scanderbeg'sS^o\:d, a whole Suit of Armour of Henry IV. of France^ finely inlaid with Gold, a Ma- chine to light five hundred Matches at once, a Brafs Statue of Morojini \_Manroceni Telo^onejiaci] General in the Morea, made I in 58 Venice. in honour of him while living, [They fame Honour they have now beftow'd on General Schulenberg, in the Iflc oiCorfu, in his Life-time.] Several Standards taken from the Turks^ Horfc-tails, &c. A Bufl: of France fco Carrara, laft Lord and Tyrant of Tadua, fct round with little Arrows, with which he us'd to kill People for Sport. This Carrara exercis'd many other Cruelties and Tyrannies mT'adua, and did Ibme Injuries to the Venetians : They at laft got him into their hands, and made him pay for all at once. They ftrangled him and his Brother in prifon, and, to go thorow-ftitch with their Revenge, (for 'tis their Maxim never to do it by halves), they put to death all his young Children, without regard to the Innocence of , , . their Infancy ; at once putting an end to them, and all Appre- henfions of their future Refentments. The Occafion of making an Armory of this Apartment, was upon the Difcovery of a dangerous Confpiracy againft the Government by Bajamonte Tiepolo, who, unable to bear the Eleftion of 'Peter Grademgo, to the prejudice of his Father, who had the Voice of the People, and was by them proclaimed 'Doge, confpired with fome of the noble Families, and other diftatisfied Pcrfons, to maifacre the IDoge and the whole Senate : but the Day being come for putting this their Defign in Execution, there fuddenly arofe fo terrible a Storm, that itfeem'd as if the Wrath of Heaven had arm'd all Nature againft the Confpirators. And, tho' violent Storms do, at other times, come very fuddenly in Venice, yet their own Confcioufnefs applied to themfelves the coming of this i which ftruck them with fuch a Terror, that they imme- diately fled, and fought their Safety out of the State. The Palace of the G^iirini (one of the Confpirators, ftanding at the Rialto^ was turn'd to a Slaughter-houfe 5 and at S. Agojtino., the Parifh of Bajamonte, was wrote his Condemnation, on a Pillar of Marble i and the Memory of the Confpirators brand- ed with eternal Infamy. This fame Confpiracy gave Rife alfo to the Ereftion of the Council of Ten, who were at firft no other than a Chamber of ]uftice appointed for difcovery of the Ac- complices in this horrible Defign. They continue annually to commemorate the Difcovery of it; the Day is the 15th of 'June, the Feaft of S. Vito, on which Day annually the Senate vifits the Church of that Saint ; and they, together with the foreign Ambaf- Venice. 59 Ambaffadors, arc entertained by the 'Doge. And as one means to prevent the Effed of like Defigns for the future, they have made a fort of Lodge [they call it Loggietta'] a pretty Building of Marble at the bottom of the Tower of S. Mark, which juft fronts the Entrance into the Doges Palace : Here fomc of the Trocurators of S. Mark always attend, as Ccnti- nels of State, while the great Council is fitting ; employing themfelves at the fame time in other Bufinefs, relating to their Office. The Tower of S. Mark above-mention'd is all built of Marble ; the way up it is not by Steps, but a floping Afccnt along the Walls i a vacant Space being left in the middle : by this Afcent one might go up on Horfeback 5 or even in a Chaife : The Profped from the Top of it is very pleafant i you fee not only the whole City, but have a View too of the open Sea, with the little Iflesj which, with the Lido that lies towards it on one fide, and the Circuit of the Terra firma on the other, make a moft agreeable Variety. The old Trocu- rati's are built of a dark-colour'd fort of Marble : the new ones on the oppofite fide are of the 'Pietra dura of IJlriai which is a fort of Marble too : The Church of S. Giminiano at one end, and that of S. Mark at the other, (as has been faid) are of Marble like wife ; fo that the whole Tiazza may- be faid to be all of Marble. The Pavement of the Area is of Brick ; it is now very much broken ; 'tis divided into Compartiments by Borders of 'Pietra dura. The Church of S. Giminiano is little, but a very pretty piece of Archi- tefture; 'twas built by Sanfovino. The old Trocurati's are built upon a good handfome Portico that goes all along ; but the Superftrufture is almoft all Windows, which are fepara- ted only by Pillars : The Apartments are now turned into pri- vate Habitations. The new Trocurati's make nine large Apartments; belonging to fo many Procurators of S. Mark, Of thefe Officers there was originally but one, who was call'd Trocurator Operis Beati Marci. His Office was to fupcrintend the Building of that Church : but, as by many Bcncfaftions, the Revenues of the Church increas'd, it was thought fit to in- creafe the number of Procurators too : fo that fincc, they have been call'd Procuratores [not Operis, but] Operum Beati Marci. I 2 Thefe <5o Venice. Thcfe Trociirat't's arc a noble Range of Building, begun by Scamozzi, and finifh'd by Sanfovino : They ftand on a Portico of the T)orick Order 5 the two Orders above, are lonick and Corinthian i but the uppcrmoft Order is not continued the whole Length i a little before the return, which (as I faid before) they make along one fide of the 'Tiazzetta, there is only the T)orick and the lonick, and are fo continued after the Return -, this part is adorn'd with a Baliijirade, and Statues all along atop. Towards the middle of this Part, there is an Afcent to the pub- Jick Library, which is a very handlbme Room ; and, befidcs the Books and Manufcripts which are its proper Furniture, it is well adorn'd with very good Paintings : there are feveral Portraits, Hiftories, and emblematical Pieces, Heads of Philofophers, ^c. by the bcft Venetian^ and fome other Mafters , as Battijla Franco, Salviati, &c. This Library was confidcrably augment- ed by Cardinal Bejfarione, as appears by an Infcription upon Marble which is there in Memory of it. Before we come into the Library there is a fort of Lobby, or Hall of Entrance, well ftor'd with good Sculptures, antique ; given to the Publick by two of the Grimani, one of whom was Patriarch of Aqitileia, and had collefted them in Rome, Greece, and other Parts. There are feveral of the Roman Emperors, among which there is an Atiguftus with a Corona Ci-vica ■, and a Tertinax, much eftcem'd. There is an Apollo and a 'Pallas, larger than the Life, whole Figures ; and another fine one of Pallas, a Buft 5 a Leda (land- ing i a dead Gladiator ; a Bacchus and F annus ; an antique Mafque -, C//^/Vilringing a Bow -, Jupiter Ammon very ancient ^ feveral fine Baflb-Relievo's, efpecially one that reprefents a Sa- crifice ; there is another good one of a Vintage. Some old Etrufcan Vafes; Altars and Infcriptions, fome of which are an- cient Greek ones, which I think are publifh'd by Gruter. There is a pretty Ganymede and Eagle, hanging from the Cieling, the Ganymede has a Phrygian Bonnet, as above- mention'd. There is likewifc among other Paintings on the Cieling a fine Piece of Titian, a Woman fitting, with a Scroll in her Hand, and a Boy by her. At the bottom of the Stairs are two large Figures, in white Marble, by Sanfovino. He and Scamozzi are in great Eftccm at Venice; and fo is Palladia, who has built feveral Churches and Palaces there. What- 7h<'. 6'o. Venice. 6l Whatever outfide Beauty there is either in their Palaces or Churches, is feldom carried beyond the Facade ; though there are fome few Inftances to the contrary. The Churches of the Redentore and Sakte, were both built Ex Voto, for Deliverance from Plagues ; the firfl: Stone of each being laid by the T)oge and Tatriarch, one in the Year i577, the other in 163 1 j there is fome what grand in the Look of each of them, efpecially that of the Salute ; but it feems overcharg'd with Ornaments on the Outfide : There arc fome very fine Paint- ings within, both in the Church and the Sacrifty ; particularly fome of Titian, which were remov'd hither from the Church of S. Spirito. That of the Redentore belongs to the Capucins. The Front of the Church of S. Alofes [for he is fainted there] is much admired by the generality of the Venetians-:, butisen- cumber'd with extravagant Ornaments, the moft of any thing I ever faw that aims at regular Architedlure. Befides the Saints of the New Teftament, and the numerous ones of their own Kalendar, the Venetians have likewife cano- niz'd S. Mofes, ( now mention'd ) S. Samuel, and S. Job, and built a Church to each of them : alfo to S. Daniel and S. Jeremiah. Thefe being reprefented as holy Perfons, and Saint implying no more, the Title feems not improper, tho/ not ufually given by us. , ; . . In the Church of St. Sebajlian, which is not a large one, and in the Sacrifty, there are forty Pieces of Painting by "[Paolo Ve- ronefe, befides a large one in the Refectory. In this Church he lies buried. The Church and Convent of S. Giorgio Maggiore, belonging to the Benedictine Monks, are very fine. Thefe, with the Gar- den, take up a whole Illand. In the Church area great many Paintings by 77«?tfr^f, and other good Hands. The Monks of this Convent give out that they are poflcfs'd of the Body of S. Stephen the Trotomartyr^ which they pretend was brought fiimtovajerufalemto Conjlantinople, in the time of Honor ius Cafar, and from thence to Venice in the Year 1 1 ro, by a Monk, to whofe Memory they have given this Infcription. OJfa Tetri Veneti Monachi, qui Corpus Trotomartyris By- zantio hue advexit mo. " The dl Venice. " The Bones of Teter a Monk of Venice, who brought the Body " of the fiift Martyr hither {xom.CoytftantinopIe, 1 1 lo. The upper Part of the Refectory, which is about twelve Yards wide, is intirely taken up by that celebrated Picture of Taolo Veronefe, the Marriage of Cana in Galilee: Taolo% Wife is painted for the Bride : himfelf, Titian, and one of the Bajfans, arc joining in a Concert of Mufick, and ^Paolo's Brother is Go- vcrnour of the Fcaft, and is tafting the Wine : 'Tis a very gay pleafant Pidure : and the Architefture in the back-ground is par- ticularly beautiful. On the great Stair-cafe of the Convent is painted Jacob's Ladder, by a Difciple of 'Paolo's ; and there is aninfcription, which has a Regard both to the Piclure, and to the Stairs, which it adorns, ^iifquis hos Graduspremis, Vitta qnoque calca, fie tibi ex piactilis novo more fcalam fades ad Cmlum. " Whoever thou art that treadeif thefe Steps, tread " alfo under foot thy Vices i fo (halt thou, out of good Works, " raife to thyfelf, after a new manner, a Ladder into Heaven. There is a very handfome Court encompafs'd with a Portico. The Garden of this Convent is the beft in Ve7iice. There are many fine Palaces that have no Garden at all belonging to them : The moft that there are, are in a part they call the Giudeccdt which is feparated by a broad Canal from the reft of Venice. The Churches are all, for the Generality, very full of Paint- ings, of the Venetian and the Lombard M afters ; of which there are fo particular Acounts in Print, it were fuperfluous to enlarge here upon that Head. The Venetians are exceftively lavilh of their white Wax Ta- pers in their Proceflions, at their Night-Litanies, and at the G^uaranta Hove ; i. e. the Expofition of the Hoft for forty Hours, for the gaining of Indulgences. I have feen near five hundred lighted up at once over one Altar, rifmg Pyramid-wife, almoftto the Top of the Church ; and a glorious Shew it makes. The Hofi: is feen through a circular Plate of Cryftal fet in Gold, or Silver gilt i adorn'd richly with J^els, and Rays of Silver, as (hooting from it. In fome Churches, upon fuch an Occafion, we have feen Jewels fet in Stars, and other Figures, and Rays of Silver coming from them plac'd among the Candles j which made fuch a Glittering, there was fcarce any looking upon them. The folemn Mufick playing, and Incenfe wafting all the while, enter- Venice. (5} entertaining fcveral Senfcs at once, after the moft agreeable Manner. One Night in S. Mark's Church, befides the vaft Illumination of the great Altar, a Row of Candles went round the whole Body of the great Nave, and they were all lighted in a Minute's time, by the means of a Line of loofe Flax, extended all along their Wicks, which were ready prcpar'd by being dipp'd in Oil of Turpentine. The Occafion of this Illumination was upon a grand Proceffion of the Nobles, Cittadini, [CitizensB and others who walked with Wax Tapers in their Hands, round the 'PioJZSM ; while the Hoft was carried under a Canopy, at- tended by the ^Patriarch, and Trimocerio, with the Crofter: The Inccnfe wafting, fill'd the whole Tiazza and all the adjacent Parts. When they had taken their Compafs round the piazza, they went into the Church to receive Benediftion. This Proceflion was on the id oi January, to implore aBlelling for the New Year. I never faw this Church to fuch advan- tage as upon this Occafion, it being fo well lighted ; which was owing to the great Number of Candles, without which, even in the brighteft Day, it is dark enough. It is generally faid, tliat more Wax Candles are fpent at Feftivals and Proceflions in Venice, than in any other City of Italy. I heard a Venetian carry it fo far once, as to fay. More than in all Italy befides. But, That I know not whether I am in the right to repeat. The Trimocerio, lately mention'd, is E>ean of the Canons of S. Mark : He and they are all of the 'Doge's Nomination ; for the Church of S. Mark owns no other Jurifdidion than that of the T>oge, who takes pofleffion of it, as the Tope docs of S.John Later an; and in this Ceremony t\\cTrimocerio ox\\\s great Vicar prefents to him the red Standard of S. Mark, Injig- numvera 'Dominationis, as a Mark of his real Dominion over this Church. Monfieur Amelot calls him the Bifhop of the Nobles, as the Prior of S. John of Malta is Bifhop of thofe Knights. S. Tietro di Caflello is the patriarchal Church, tho' th,it of S. Mark be the much richer Structure. Both the Tatriarch and Trimocerio arc always Sons of noble Venetians. The Greek Church, as to its Fabrick, eonfills of three Parts, T^e Greek which tJiey reckon eflential, the 'EjtjtAJKri'a, "^.o^af, aiid 'Ayiov^^""''''' dyte»y, the Body of the Church, the Choir, and Holy of Hoiies, In the firft the Lay-men fit; in the Choir are the Priefts and Monks 2. of ^4 Venice. of their Church ; tho' fome others arc likewife there fometlmes ; tliis is fcparatcd from tlie Body of the Church only by Balufters. Into the Holy of Holies there do ordinarily enter only the Prieft who officiates, and his Aihlfants : when Strangers are admitted to fee it, they are to put off their Swords -, which we did. This is feparated from the Choir by a Wall, in which are three Doors, over-againft the middle Door, within the View of the People, ftands the chief Altar, which is the Altar of Confecration ; on one fide of that is the Altar of Preparation, where the Elements arc fet ready ; on the other Side a Tabic for laying the Veft- nients on, to be ready for the fcveral Changes which there arc of them. There is likewife a Veftibiihtm to this Church, which I am told is uncommon ; and is attributed here to the particular Fancy of the Architeft. The Women in this Church are feparated from the Men; fome fit in the Vefttbiilum, others in a Gallery which is over it. The Prieft who officiates in the Holy oi Holies has Habits not unlike thofe in the Romifh Church, and fome of them very rich. Thofe in the Choir, by whom the reft of the Service is perform'd, {viz. alternate Chants of Prayers, &c.) have no particular Habit, but are in the Gowns they ordinarily wear. The Epiftle is chanted by a Youth, in the middle of the Choir : and the Gol'pcl, by a Prieft, ftanding at the middle Entrance into the Holy of Holies, who afterwards in the lame Place makes a Difcourfe, by way of Explanation of the Gofpel ; his Adion was very graceful and juft, and not fo Theatrical as we ordinarily fee among thofe of the Romijh Church in their preaching. At the time of the Confecration of the Elements, a Curtain was drawn over the Entrance into the Holy of Holies j I fuppofe that it might feem more Myfte- rious. In their Confecration-Service, the Words t»'to /xS 6?-''^° ''■'^i"* [This is my Body^ are introduced and fpoke by the Prieft much ■*This Vr ^^ ^^^'^ fame Manner as in our Prayer of Confecration : but 1 was ii called the told that they did not reckon That to be the Confecration, pro- 'E^x^ iipocxa perly fo called ; but, that the Confecration confifted in the oratio Ap- * Prayer for the Holy Ghoft, and in the following Suffrages, for /T/rL^r" turning the Bread into the Body, and the Wine into the Blood vhen the of Chtlft. elements an brought for Confecration. The Venice. <^$ The material Words in the Prayer for the Holy Ghoft, are thole wherein they pray, 'ETria-Klwuarcci ro rirgv/^a tms Xag^- TOi ca 10 dya,3'}>f If r\[Ji£i, ^ eTrl -to iTQfiv.eljJ.ivcc Awg^i TaoTO.. that God would fpread over them, and the Gifts there lying, the Spirit of his Grace. The Suffrages are as follow. Prieft. TloUtrov nmv fA,h "AfJov tZtop rifA.iov Sw/^a t« XgAr" frov. Make this Bread the precious Body of thy Chrift. Deacon. 'AfALu. Amen. Prieft. To S'e h nofn^v tstm TtfAiov AT[/.a m Xg/t but the Paintings bad enough. Our ^t. George is a great Fa- vourite among them : They have three or four of his Piftures, killing the Dragon. The Church is dedicated to him. I obfer- ved fome of them kifs the Piftures of the Madonna and Bam- bino, as the Roman-Catholicks do. Tho'thcy admit Painting in their Church, they allow no Sculpture. But, in the Greek Church at Rome, we faw a Statue of a dead Chrift, (painted over in the natural Colours) expos'd in the Church for moving of Devotion J where they came and kifs'd its Feet with great Reverence i and there were fome Roman-Catholicks among them. 'Twas in the Holy Week. The Church of the Ar- menians feems in nothing different as to its Structure from thofe of the Roman-Catholicks. That at Venice is little, but well built. Their Manner of Worfnip is likewife much nearer the Roman-Catholicks than that of the Greeks. They ufe Holy Water ; kneel at receiving the Eucharift 5 in which they ufe Wafer, as the Roman-Catholicks do -, but they dip it in the Wine*. The Armenians exalt the Hoft 5 and the People who are kneeling, thump their Breafts, and kifs the Ground, as the Roman-Catholicks do. Some little Cuftoms they have, which the others have not. They have an Altar of Preparation (as the Greeks) a little one, at the fide of the Great Altar, on which the Elements are put before Confecration. They em- brace one another at one part of the Service, but not imme- diately before receiving of the Eucharift, as the Greeks do : They diftribute confecrated Bread, [not that of the Eucharift] thin, as the Oatcake they make in fcveral Parts of England^ broke in little bits, and the People kifs the hand of him that diftributcs it. This in their Language is the fame thing as the * Though the Roman-Catholicks allow the Communion to the Laity only in one kind, yet 1 have fecn them (p;irticularly at the Church of S. Vetroniiis in Bologna) give about a Cup ot Wine to the Communicants, after the receiving of the Hoft; but that Wine is not conf.cruted; and, as I remember, it was white Wine. Venice. 6"} the 'A')/a7r« of the Greeks, and the People at the taking of this Bread, s,ivc a Piece of Money into a Diih, which is held for that purpofe : though they have another Collection of Alms before the Euchariji, as the Greeks have. By what I have been fince told, the Armenians of Venice are no other than Tapifts ; they allow Tranfubjiantiation direclly > but, what complcats the Matter, they own the Tope's Supremacy, which (as I was told) for a more convenient Being there, they were in- duc'd to do. There is an Armenian Churcii at Rome in one of the old Temples * ; but the Congregation there is very * Temp. flender. They are much more numerous at Venice, upon the fo"uniE vi- Account of Trade: And by the fame Inducement, there is in- ^"^'^r"^"' deed a general Conflux of all Nations; Terfians^ iS/r/^^^j, ^gyptiaci. Indians, &c. as well as Etiropeans ; with all of whom, when together, the Tiazza di S. Marco is pretty well fiU'd. Befides the ufual Ornaments, which are common to the reft of the Italian Churches, fome of the Venetian ones have a confiderable Addition from the magnificent Monuments of their Tioges, of fome of the moft wealthy 'Procurators oi S.Mark, Generals, and other great Men among them : which arc, gene- rally fpeaking, more fumptuous, and more numerous, in pro- portion to the Place, than they are elfewhere. They have many of them large Eulogies and Encomiums, which the Vene- tians are no way fparing of after their Deaths; however in- duftrious to fupprefs their Glory in their Life-time, In the Church of S. joira and S. Taul there is a Monument erefted to the Memory of the valiant Mark Antonio Bragadino, Go- vcrnour of Famagojla in the Ifle of Cyprus j who was there flea'd alive by order of Mujiapha, General of the Turkijh Army : The Story is told at large in feveral of the Venetian Hiftories, with its barbarous Circumftances : And we have feen fome Re- prcfcntations of it in Painting. There arc near twenty T)oges buried in this Church. One Day as we were walking there, obferving the Monuments and Pictures, a Girl came and bcgg'd a Triary t, and if wc would give it her, (he would go j^ jibout hear a Mafs for us ; the Triary was given, without infifting ov\.i'"rec-h.':if- thc Condition: in a reafonable time fhc came back again tQf''"«£"S' • us, told us fhe had heard the Mafs ; recommended us to the Blcf- K 2 fed iilortif.casion. 6% V E N I C E. led Virgin, and went off, fully fatisfied flie was no longer our Debtor. Tis a Happinefs in Italy, that a Man may Pray or * That is, Faft, orBifciplinc *, or Fight, all by Proxy, if he has no mind Srairsefir ^q ^^ j^ j.^ Petfon. During the Time of our Stay at Venice, we were prefcnt at a Circumcifion, in the Ghetto, which ftgnifies here, as in other Cities of Italv, a part of the Town appropriated to the Jews only. The Godfather, with a fort of white Crape Scarf about his Shoulders, is fet in a Chair ; the 'Child is laid upon his Knees •-, an Alllftant is ready with a fdver Salver, which holds the Inftrumcuts and A^ciVels; I'iz. [il a fmall fdver Plate, having a Nick along the middle of it, to Hip over thc^repuce or Fore- skin, at the Place where it is to be cut ; [2] a fhort Knife of Steel, having a pretty thick Back like a Razor ; [3] a little fdver Cup with Sand, to throw the prepuce into ; [4] another fmall fdver Vcflel with Sangnis'Draconis [Dragon's Blood] in Powder, to ftrew over the new Wound 5 and another of the fame fort with Balfam to apply to it. He that performs the Operation having a white Silk Scarf thrown about his Shoulders, takes the fmall fdver Plate, and drawing out the Trepitce with the other Hand, flips it within the Nick, and with the Knife cuts it off at once, and throws it into the Sand : when that is done, with his Thumb-nail (which is kept pretty long for thatpurpofe) he tears open the Skin which yet remains about the Glajts j and ftrips it back, fo as to leave the Glans quite barcj he then fucks the Blood from the wounded pait, and ipouts it into a Glafs of Wine, of which hefupsfome himfelf, and puts a little into the Child's Mouth i and the reft is handed about, as a 'Po- ctiltim Charitatis, for the Friends, each of them, to take a Sup : Mean while he proceeds to flrew on the Sanguis T>raconis^ which he docs pretty plentifully ; and over that applies the Bal- fam ; which is fprcad on a round bit of Rag, having a Hole in the Center, for the Glans to come through : He puts on two of them, and then binds all up. It is not neceflary that a Pric(\ fhould perform the Office -, or that it fhould be done in the Synagogue i any Friend may do it, in the Houfc of the Parents, this was done j and it is elf cemed a meritorious Ait. All the Fore- skins any one of them cuts off, he keeps by him till his Death : at whicli Venice. 6^ which time they are all put into the Coffin, and buried with him ; as if he were to take them along with him, to appear for him in the next World, as Co many Tcftimonies of thofe good Offices he had perform'd in this. Preparatory Hymns are fung by the Friends, in Hebrew ; and the Circumcifor chants fomc- what, during the Operation, The circumftantial Ceremo- nies of fucking and fpouting the Blood into the Wine, c^r. they hold from oral Tradition. The Mother fate drcft up in her Bed, in the next Room, as our English Ladies do at Chrift- nings. The Je-juijl) Women have the Privilege of drcfTing like the > noble Ladies, \ii.e. after xht:, French Manner] which the other Women of Veyiice arc not allow'd to do : and fome of them were fet out very richly with Jewels. The Schools ol Venice (which I juft mentioned when I fpoke oiTadita) do, in fomc refpcds, rcfemble the Halls of the Com- panies in London. They are Meeting-places for Confrater- nities; fome for difpenfmg of Charities to the Poor; fome for bellowing Dowries upon poor Maids at Marriage ; fome for Burial of executed Malcfadlors; and fome for alllfting to- wards a Recovery of the Holy Land i befides oher Purpofes which I had no account of. That of S. Rocco is the fincft Stru- fturej the Front of it is very rich. Out of the great Hall below, we enter upon a large Stair-cafe, which leads into the principal Room, a fpacious and noble one. The Cieling and Sides are all painted by Tintoret. There are in this School, in the fevcral Apartments, near forty Pieces of thatMafter ; moft of them as large as the Cartoons at Haynpton-Court ; and one \vv the Albergo [an inner Room] much larger ; which reprefents the Crucifixmi of our Saviour -, and is held in fo high Elkem, that Agojtino Caracci has engrav'd it. That Piece is done with more Accuracy than the generality of his large Compofttions ; many of which have more of Spirit and Fire than Corrednefs : A great and rapid Genius appears in moft of them; fometimes not without a little Extravagance. When this School was to be painted, other Matters befides himfelf, were to give in their Dcfigns, for the middle part of the Cieling of this Albergo : Ti?itoret took meafure of the Place, and before the reft had brought 70 Venice: brought tl-icif Defigns, he brought his Ptdurc finini'd ; and fet it up ; which was lb well approv'd, that he was unanimoufly chofcn to do the whole. la Ibmc Vacancies between the Paint- ings, ill the principal Room, arc fomc Shelves of Books cut in Wood, fo exadly natural, that they perfcdly deceive the Sight ; the Choice they have made of tlic Wood exadly rcprcfenting the Colour of their Parchment Bindings i and old Leaves, which arc tumbled about, in a very well-fancied Manner. On the Stairs is a fine Armnncicition oiTitian. There arc likcwifc two large Pieces, one rcprcfenting a 'Plague, the other the Delive- rance from it i which is fhcwn by a Ray of Light darting upon a ^DeatJj, and upon another Figure rcprcfenting the Tlngtie •■> who, arm in arm, are taking flight. There is on the fame Stairs, an Infcrfption in Marble, in Memory of the great Plague there in the Year 1576; which I tranfcrib'd, and is as follows. 1576. Aloyfio Mocenico Principe Ven. Saviebat pcft'tfera Lues, qua nulla unquam 'Vel dhiturnior, •vcl pernkiofior extitit ; noftrormn Crimlnum nltrix. 'Pajfim nrbe tot a Cadavcra jacere projlrata^ CarbuncnUs, Mactt- II s, Bubonibnfq; horrcntibus obfejfa ; iifdeni c^^/Edib. eadem hordt fiinera funerlbns continimri. Ubiq-, Lachryma, Sufpiria, Sinr gultus 5 nbiq; tot ins c'tvitatis miferabilis adfpcilus. Civib. rcpen- te vel obeuntib. vel nietu per ten it is diilce7n patriam deferent ib. 1)emum aliquando Dcipara Virgine ac Beatiffimo Ilocho 'Depre- catoribus, vifa eji hac Erynnis adeo triftis ac dira, extremo Menfe Dccenibris {cnra Martio ccepijfet grajfan ac fur ere) vim fere omnem amifijfe ; quo quidem temporis inter valla cum Societatis nra cccc plus minus fratres inter cidijfent, jifdem ipfisfratrib. eorumq; Familiis, pr/eftantiffnni Viri Dnici Ferro Magni Societatis Magijlri Studium,1)iligcntia, Benignitas, Cha- ritas, nunq. fane defuit. ^li quidem t ant am cladem hoc ipfo Monumento teftatam voluit, utq\ legens 'Pojleritas admiretur^ ingentemq, Venetor. inultitudinem pejlis crudelitate abfumpt. pentijf. kchrymis profeqnatur, 1J76. (( V £ N I C E.' 71 1576. Pfhen Aloifio Mocenigo was Doge of Venice, " There raged a peftilential Contagion ; than which none ever was of longer Continuance, none ever more dcftru6live ; the juft Avengement of our Sins. All over the City lay Bodies of Men that had dropt down dead, over-fpread with Blotches, Carbuncles,and horrid Buboes. The fame Houfe furnifh'd Funerals upon Funerals, [the fame Day] the fame Hour. On every fide were Tears, Sighs, and Sobs ; on every fide lamentable was the Afped of the whole City. The Inhabitants either fuddenly dying, or haftily deferring their dear Country, in Fright and Confternation. At laft, thro' the Inter- cellion of the Virgin- Mother of God^ and the moft blefled S.Rock*, this fo fad and direful iv/r;', which in March had begun to fpread and rage, at the later end of T>ecember feem- ed to have loft almoft all her Strength. In which Interval of Time 400, moreorlefs, of the Brothers of our Society were cutoff} to whom and their Families the Concern, Diligence^ Benignity and Charity of that moft excellent Perfon "Dominico Ferro, Great Mafter of the Society, was never wanting j. Who likewife willed that this Monument fhould bear witnefs of fo great a Mortality ; and that Pofterity may admire when they read it, and with pious Tears bewail the vaft Multitude of Venetian Citizens fwept away by the Cruelty of this Pefti- lence t. The Sch9ol of S. Mark has a very rich Front of Marble; in the Pannels, between the Pillars, are reprefented beautiful Per- fpe a little of whole Works we are fo glad to L z adorn 7<5 Venice. adorn the Iiifide of our Houfes with, now a-days. The richeft Furniture of the Venetian Palaces is their Paintings ; with which they are often very well ftored. * rhire are \Ve faw vcry good ones at icvcral Palaces of the * Grimani, ilmJe^f Maniani, GraJJi, Tielfino, Tifani, Barber/go, and others. In thut mme. one of the Palaces of the Grimani [that near the Servi'] is the moft celebrated Piece of Taolo, of any that is in private hands. It is the Finding of Mofes ; the whole Piece is very fine ; but what Ihines nioft, (as indeed it fhould) is Tharaoh's Daughter. Befides the Beauty of the Lady's Perlbn, the exquifite Delicacy of her Drapery is Ihrprifing. At two other Palaces of the Gr/«?^w/-Family, there are feveral antique Bufts, and other Pieces of Sculpture 5 at one of 'em there is a Theatre in the Palace, for the Rehearfal of Opera's ; this Family being Proprietors of two or three of the Publick Theatres. There are in the Court of this Palace feveral antique Infcriptions and BalTo-Relievo's, and fome Statues. And within the Palace there is a fort of Tribima, fomewhat in the Manner of that of the Great Duke's at Florence ; furnifh'd with Sculp- tures, Infcriptions, and feveral forts of Curiofities. At the other of thetwolaftmention'd Gr/»^^;/i-Palaces, there is a Por- f Thu ca- fico painted all over by the Cavalier Liberi +, whofc Works are J Vi[ ^o/^^"^'' much eftecm'd at Venice; feveral of his Paintings are in the Tfas a Jew. Churchcs. In the Loggietta under the Campanile di S. Marco are fome Pieces of him, which for Colouring are efteemed little inferior to Titian. At the Palazzo Tifani is another much celebrated Piece of Taolo Veronefe, it reprefents 'Daritts's Tent ; or rather his Fa- mily ; for the Tent itfelf is not dcfcrib'd in the Picture. We have fome Copies of it here in England. At the Talazzo Barberigo there is a Ritratto of a T>oge of that Family, Marcus Barbadicus Ven. T>ux 1485. And amongfl: a great many other excellent Pieces, they fhew'd us Tidans lall Work ; a S. Sebaflian left unfinifh'd by him. At the Talazzo 'Delfino is an admirable Piece of Holbein ; 'tis call'd Sir Thomas More and his Family 5 but how truly I know not. The Face is fomewhat fuller than thofe I have elfewhere ieen of him by the fame Author -, and I think in other refpeds different from tlicm. Bclides, how the Children reprefented in this •Venice. 77 this Pidure fuit with the Account of his Family, I cannot tell. In the principal Part of this Picture ftands the Bleffed Virgin, with the Bambino in her Arms, which is done in a wonderful eafy natural Attitude ; on one fide is Sir Thofnas himfelf (if it be he) kneeling ; by him are his two Sons j one of them kneels ; the other, who is an Infant, is {landing naked, fupported by his Brother : On the other fide is the Lady with her two Daughters kneeling -, and faying their Beads : the little naked Boy could hardly have been outdone (if I dare fay fuch a word) by Raphael himfelf. The Ornaments of the young Ladies Heads, and other parts of their Drefs, are fiuifh'd as neatly as thofe in his Imalleft Pieces : The Size of this is what (I think) they call Half Life, or rather leis. It is painted upon Board. The Owner values it at 3000 Sequins, or 1500 Guineas. I have feen a fine Draw- ing of it imported lately * into England, pcrform'd by Bifchop * This vat in Soot-water ; wherein the Likenels of the Countenances, as Y-."T '* well as the Juftnefs of the Attitudes, is very well preferv'd. The Floor of the Hall in this Palace, is of the lighter-coloiu-'d Plaifter, and fo well laid, that it looks like one continued Mar- ble. The Cieling and Sides of it are painted in Frefco by the Cavalier Bambini, who was xhx.t<. with us, and told us he pcr- form'd it in fifteen Days. There is an old rich Senator, Sacredo, who, as we were told, has the fiiaeft Collection in Venice, of Paintings, Drawings, Sculptures, and all forts of Curiofities ; but either his real or pretended Scruples of State would not fufFer us to fee *em. Their Policy won't allow any of their Nobles to have theleaft Coaverfation witli any foreign Miniftefi this Gentleman's Caution carried it fo far, that, bccaufe we had .convers'd with the Rcfident of our Nation, he would not cohverfe with us, nor •fufter us to come into his Houfe. One Day he was coming to fee a French Painter in our Neighbourhood, and was got half way up Stairs ; but being told my Lord Tarkefs Valet de Chambre was ther^ he hurried down Stairs again as if the Houfc had been on fire. ■ At * Ca.Capello Senatorio, as they call it, ('tis the Houfe of* ca./sr Signior Capello, a Senator) we faw a great many Curiofities in Cala. Mofaick, Painting, Sculptures, Antiquities, Medals, Cameo's, and abundance of R,aritLcs, natural and artificial 5 all collccT:ed by_ Jo . r ,. Ve N I C E. by himfclf. An intlrc Mummy, and great Variety of c/S^^- f/an Idols. A large old Rowan Plate in Copper with the Names of the T>ecnriones, when L. Marias Alaximns, and L. Roftins titch } and much better in feveral rcfpeds. However the Venetians may abound in Salt-water, they are ill put to it through the want of frefh. All the frefh W^ater they have is either what they referve from Rain, or bring from the River Brent a -, and this they keep in Cifterns, or Wells made for that purpofe J which are generally furrounded with a handfome Para- pet of Marble. The Water brought from the Brenta is not put diredly into the Well j but by a Hole, at fome diftancc from it, is convey'd into a fort of Refervoir ; which (as I was inform'd) is feparated from the Well, by a Bed of Chalk-ftones ; through which the Water is, as it were, ftrain'd, or filtcr'd into the Well : by which means it is freed from any Filth or ill Tafte which it may have contraclcd. And this is necefl'ary ; becaufe the Hole above-mention'd is fo plac'd, as to receive a good deal of the Rain-water that falls upon the Campo, where the Well is plac'd. Thcfe Wells are interfpers'd at fuitable Dilfances in the publick parts of the Town i for the Convenience of the neighbouring Inhabitants : There are two fine ones in the great Court of xhc'Doge'^ Palace, well adorn'd with Sculpture. And in the Convent of the Frari there is a noble one dedicated (as in the Infcription) DEO UNI ET TRINO OMNIUM BO- NORUM FONTI. To GOD THREE-ONE, the Fountain of all Good. The three Holy Terfons are exprefs'd in Sculp- ture. It has a Covering fupported with Pillars, and is fomewhac like that in Vignola% Architedure. •^ ' There Venice. 8 j There is a grand Apparatus and Solemnity for the making of their famous Medicinal Treacle at Venice: The Ingredients are expos'd to pubHck View for fomc days before they are put together, and arc Ukewile inlpecled (as wc were told) by cer- tain Perfons fworn to examine them. We one day law them fct out in great order, 64 fevcral Sorts, at the Entrance into an Apothecary's Shop ; 3 2 on each hand, in regular Partitions. The Inlpedlors are not only to examine the Qiiality of the fe- vcral Drugs, but likewifc to be prcient at every Circumftancc of the Compofition, to fee that all be fair and right. The manner of pounding them is very regular : We faw a double Row of Men at work with their Mortars, upon the Afcent of the Rialto Bridge ; all keeping time as duly, as if it had been a Concert of Mufick. Our Apothecaries diipute the Point with them, and fay they can make as good here, as any that's made at Venice. I think they allow the Venetians to have fonie- what the better of it, as to one of the Ingredients (and I doubt a principal one) the Vipers : but for the reil, and the Proceis of the Compofition, they fay we at Icaft equal, if not outdo them. This is eafy for them to fay ; tho' I know fomc, who have taken enough of both forts to perceive a confiderablc Difference, give much the Preference to the Venetian. Bur, whatever our Improvements have been with regard to the Treacle Manufafture, we certainly have come up with them as to Glaflcs, and far outdone them too, by all that I cou'd lee at Murano -, which is an Ifland at a fmall diftance from Venice, where the Glals-Works are. There arc more Theatres in Venice than in any City of Italy that I have heard of : There arc feven for Opera's, bcfides others s. j. Chryfo- for Comedies, &c. There were Opera's in three of them, when ^"^'^an^udc we were there. The Theatres are the Properties of fevcral s. Giovanni e Noblemen. That of S. Johii Chryfojiom belongs to one of the J''"!",;, ,-y^ G rimani-'P amilics : and tlie fame Family has likewifc two other s. Moyie. Theatres, S. SaMuel, and S.John-and-^.'Faiil-, the grcatcft ia -5'- f^^'"'"- Venice. The Theatres take their Names from the neigh- ^ u,c"fir bouring Churches, and tho' they arc in general the Pro- comcMes. perty of fuch and Inch Noblemen, yet others have Boxes as their Inheritance, purchas'd of the general Proprietor of the Theatre; and of thcfc tliey keep the Keys themfclvcs. But be- Al 2 fore ^4- Venice. fore you can come at your Box, there is fomewhat to be paid (about IS. 6d. Engliih) for Entrance into tlie Theatre. There are no open Galleries, as in London, but the whole from Bot- tom to Top is all divided into Boxes, which one with ano- ther will contain about fix pcrlbns each. They have a fcandalous Cuftom there, of i'pitting out of the upper Boxes (as well as throwing Parings of Apples or Oranges, S'C.') upon the Company in the Pit, (a practice frequent enough here,) which they do at random, without any regard where it falls i tho'it fometimes happens upon fomeof the beftQiiality; who, tho' they have Boxes of their own, will often come into the Pit, cither for the better feeing the Company, or fometimes to be nearer the Stage, for the better hearmg fome favourite Songs. Indeed as to feeing the Company in the Venetian Theatres there is not much Entertainment in that ; for, not a Face is to be feen -, but the chief Amufement is, to find out, through the Difguile of the Malque, who fuch and fuch a one is, which thofe that are accuftomed to the place can very readily do. Tiiofe that make ule of Books to go along with the Per- formance, have commonly Wax-candles in their Hands 3 which are frequently put out by Favours from above. ' '' Tis very ufual there to fee Priefts playing in the Orcheflra : the famous Vivaldi (whom they call the Trete rojfo) very well known among us by his Concertoes, was a topping Man among them. They are very dextrous at managing the Machinery of their Opera's. In one of them Nero prefents Tiridates -King of -Armenia with a Roman Show, of which himfelf makes a part. The Emperor with the Emprefs appear in a Triumphal Chariot, drawn by an Elephant. The Head, Trunk, and Eyes of the great Bcaft move as if alive, and Ttridates believes he is fo. "When, all of a fudden, as foon as the Emperor and Emprefs are difmountcd and have taken their Seats, the Triumphal Chariot is transform'd into an Amphitheatre, and frU'd with Spcdators. The Elephant falls all in pieces, and out of his Belly come a great number of Gladiators, arm'd with Bucklers, which were fo many parts of the Elephant's Sides, fo that he feemsina moment to be transform'd into a Company of arm'd Men, who make a Skirmifh^ all in time to the Mufick. Another Venice. 8^ We faw another Piece of Machinery. In a vaft Hall were reprcfcntcd the four Elements, emblematically, inPidure j thcfe opening themfclves, fornVd two Palaces, thofe of Love and Hymen, thefc again were transform'd into the Palace [or Temple] oi Mars, all furrounded with Weapons of War. This Scene was fo finely imagin'd, and the Lights fo well difpos'd, that I think it was the mofl entertaining Sight I ever faw upoa a Stage. The Intermezzi (or intermediate Performances) which they have in fome of their fmaller Theatres between the Afts, are- very comical in their way, which is fomewhat low, not much unlike the Farces we fee fometimes on our Stage. They laugh, fcold, imitate other Sounds, as the cracking of a Whip, the rumbling of Chariot Wheels, and all to Mufick. Thefe /»- termezzi are in Recitativo and Song, as the Opera's are. But, fuch Entertainments, between the Ads of an Opera, fomewhat like it in the Manner, but different in the Subjed, feem to inter- rupt the Unity of theOperarkfelf; and if they will have fucit laughing Work, it fhou'd feem better at the End of the En- tertainment j as t\\c^etiSe piece in France, at the End of their Comedy, and the Farces with us fometimes are. Their Tragedy borders upon the Bombaft ; and the Comedy is much upon the fame Speed in the Theatre as it is on the Mountebanks Stage. The principal Charaders, and with- out which no Comedy will pafs among them, /. e. Harleqntn *, the 'Do^or, Tantalone and Covielli are now well known here. All thefe Ipeak different Dialeds. The firft fpeaks Bergamofio, (reckon'd the worft Dialed in Italy) the 2d Bolognefe, the 3d Venetian, znd the hH Neapa/itan. They have likcw iic Fenochw, a Pimp, who fpeaks Bergamofco too. However it pafles in other parts of Italy, 'tis pretty odd that in Venice, where the No- blemen arc ib jealous of their Honour, they ftou'd luffcr Tavh t alone t to be the Cully of the Play : for that is the Name the Noblemen themfelvcs go by. I have heard the Etymology of it (whether true I cannot tell) that it comes from Tlantare Leoncm % i becaufe that wherever any Place becomes lubjed :|; or Pi^ntira to Lione. • Harlequin is alio call'd TritfM'm, or fometimes Baggat'mo, but the CharaiSei- ij die fimc. Co-vielli is the fame as Hcaramouche. f They pcrlbnite pretty nearly the very Drels of them too, as well as Language, 86 V E N I C E^ to them, they do there plantare Leonem, plaA or fct up the Lion of S. Mark-, the Hnfign of their Dominion. The Italian Gravity fcems to require ibmewhat very comi- cal to move their Mirth. And this fort of Comedy feems to hit them very well in that rcfped : for 'tis pleafant to fee, with what extended Necks, what open Mouths, and what prick'd-up * Suo mihi Ears*, they catch at the Jokes, and Bulls, and Blunders. Ha- fexit A^reT viug mentiou'd Ears, it puts me in mind of fomething pecu- vinut. liar in the Ears of the Venetians, which in many of them are (landing out, and fpread, like little Wings, on each fide their Head; fo that you fee the very hollow of their Ears almoft fronting with the Fore-right View of their Face. This is iz<:.\\ fully in the Barkerolls [or Gondoliers'] who have only Caps, and fhort Hair -, and the fame may poflibly be cover'd under many a fuU-bottom'd Peruke. The only time for Opera's at Venice is the Carnaval, or perhaps fometimcs about the Afienjion. Thofe times of Mask- ing are the dear Delight of the Venetians •■, and the Approach of the Carnaval feems to be to them, as the Approach of the Sun to the 7olar Nations after their half year's Night. The moft common Masking Drefs is a Cloak, a Baont, and a white Mask : this Drefs with a Hat over all is the general one for both Sexes, Women as well as Men. The Baout is a fort of Hood of black Silk, which comes round the Head, leaving only an opening for the Face, with a Border of black Silk Lace which falls about the Shoulders. The white Mask comes no lower than the bottom of the Nofe, the Baout covers the reft. Some- times they have a whole Mask painted with the natural Co- lours; in the Mouth-part of which the Women place a Stone- Ring, to hold their Mask on with, the Stone glittering on the Outfide, as it were to accompany the Sparkling of their Eyes. As the Carnaval advances, the Drefs grows more various and whimsical : the Women make thcmfelves Nymphs and Shcpherdeflcs, the Men Scaramouches and Punchinello's, with twenty other Fancies, whatever firft comes uppcrmoft. For further Variety, they fometimcs change Sexes; Women appear in Mens Habits, and Men in Womcns, and lb are now and then pick'd up, to the great difappointmcnt of the Lover, li; thcfc various Dilguifes they go, not only into AUemblics - , ,, . , ' within Venice. 87 within Doors, but publickly all the City over : and during the Carnaval 'tis fo much the Drefs of the Seafon, that whether upon Vifits, or any other Occafion, they go continually in Maiquc. Their general Rendezvous is the Tiazza di S. Marco, which, large as it is, is perfectly throng'd with them ; from thence they march in Shoals to the Ridotto, which is not far off. Here none is to enter that fhews a human Face, except their Excel- lencies-, who keep the Bank at the Baflct-Tables. In other » Places People may mask, but here they w///?; VA'hat is a Privi- lege only in other Places, is here turn'd to an Obligation i perhaps for the better maintaining that Appearance of Equa- lity which is requifite to the profefs'd Liberty of the Place j That is a Reafon I have heard given for it : And thus a Tinker, by Virtue of his Masque, may come to a Baflct-Table, and fet a Ducat with one of the Princes of the People. Nothing fure can affeft the Stoick more than a Nobleman behind one of thefc Baflct-Tables j they would feem unmov'd by either good or bad Fortune : but I have fometimes feen the Apathy fail a little, and the contrary difcovcr it felf in fome involuntary Contradiion of the Muleles. All is tranfafted with a 2;reat deal of Silence ; and I have feen large Sums won and loft without a wordlpeaking. Generally he that keeps the Bank is the Win- ner J and it may be reafonably concluded, without inquiiy into the Chances of the Game, that the Odds lie on the Banker's fide ; fuice the Noblemen fccure that Privilege to themfclves : The' 'tis poUlble for another to keep a Bank by Proxy, for there are Noblemen that will do it for you for t<.\\per Cent, of the Win- nings. The Ridotto makes a pretty odd Appearance at firft fight. There are feven or eight Rooms which 1 remember, and I believe there are more. The Place is dark and filent, a few glimmering Tapers with a half Light fhew a Set of Beings, ftalking along with their pale Faces, which look like fo many Death's Heads poking out through black Pouches -, fo that one would almoft imagine himlelf in Ibme enchanted Place, or fome Region of the Dead. But there are thole to be found there, who, if you have a mind, will loon clear your Doubts, and let you know they are true Flelh and Blood. Play and Intrigue are the two Affairs of the Place : He that has more Money than he cares for, needs only ftep afidc to a Ballet -Table, where the 2 Noble- ^s * Gunners, thofe haze fame ki/id of Halherils too, w'uh Matches twijletl abotit them. Venice^ Nobleman who keeps the Bank will foon eafc him of his lu- perfluous Load. Others, who are for forming or carrying on Intrigues, may without much difficulty find what they fcek, and fomewhat more perliaps tlian what they wifh. With- out doors, Puppet-Sliews, Rope-dancers, Mountebanks and Aftrologcrs are bufy at work all the day long. Thefe laft dilpcnlc Deftinies thro' a Tin Trumpet plac'd at the Ear of the inquifitivc Patient -, who ftands trembling below on the Ground, while the other is exalted on a little fort of Stage, and thence in an inclin'd Pollure with his Mouth at the other end of the Trumpet pronounces what pjoll or fljall not be. ■■'■■ On Jo-vedi Grajfo [xhzThiirfday immediately preceding Lent) all Venice is pcrfedly in an Uproar; the publick Frenzy, which from the beginning of the Carnaval has had a fort of gradual Increafe, feems now to be at its utmoft height. Now we fee a thoufand odd Difguifes, fuch as each one's Caprice fuggcfts ; with Diverfions as boifterous and noify without doors, as be- fore we had fecn quiet and ftlent within. Young Fellows dri- ving Bulls all about the Town, along thofe narrow Alleys, (for moll of their Streets, as 1 obferv'd above, are but fuch) hollow- ing in fuch a frantick manner as tho' they were endeavouring to make the Beafts they follow as mad as themfclvcs. 'Tis not a very iafe Curiofity to be in the way of them. Thus they hurry them to the Campos (the more open parts of the City) where they bait them after as extravagant a manner ; not tying them to a Stake, but dragging them with Cords ; and fome- times dragg'd by them, as the Fury of the Beaft adds to his Strength, while three or four great Dogs are fet all at once upon them, to catch at their Ears, or any part, 'tis all one. The grand Shews are in the Tiazz,etta, juft before the Doge's Palace ; one of them looks more like an Execution than a Di- verfion ; or 'tis (if you pleafc) a pompous Piece of Butchery. A Decollation of three Bulls, which are led there in great State, furrounded with the Botnbardieri*, Halberdiers, and a world of other armed Attendants ; Drums beating, and Trumpets found- ing before them. Thofe that perform the Feat have a great Sword of three or four Inches broad; fome Afllftanrs hold the Head, and others the Tail of the Animal ; which befidcs keep- him ftcady (for there is no block under) puts the Parts of 3 the m Venice. 89 the Neck to a full ftrctch, and with one blow the Executioner feparatcsthe Head from the Body. The Name of Execution bcft fviirs the Performance, if the Account which they give be true, of the Riic of this Cuftom. About nine hundred Years ago the Patriarch of Aqmleia in Friuli, with twelve of his Vicars, rcbell'd againft the State of Venice ; they were taken and behead- ed in the ^Fia.^ za di S. Marco ; and every Year for fome time after, a Bull uid twelve Hogs had their Heads ftruck off, for continuing the Remembrance of it : But the Affair of the Hogs looking too much like a joke, they fome time after fubftituted in their room two more Bulls ; fo that now tluee Bulls are thus facrificcd every Year. Others call this not a Rebellion, but a hot Warj in which the Venetians took the Patriarch Prifoner: but gave him his Liberty, on condition that he fhould fend yearly to Venice-, on the fame Day that the Viftory was got, twelve wild Boars, which with a Bull fhould be kill'd before the general Afiembly, by way of Sacrifice. This Vidory was obtaiw'd when Angela Fartitmto was "Doge, in the beginning, as I take it, of the ninth Century. Another * Entertainment is what they call the Vola, or Fly- * since i ing. A Boy Aides down a Rope, in a flying Pofture from the '"'''" '^"'W« Campanile of S. Mark with a Nofegay in his Hand, to a Window l^^'^'L ""« of the Doge's Palace, into which he enters, prefents the Nofe- acquamted gay to his Serenity, and up again he mounts Uke a Ganymede, by ^^tjl'^i„. the help of a Cord, by which he is drawn up the fame Rope he ment in Lon« came down by. Another Vola they have upwards on the back '^°"- of a Tegafus, (hooting off Piftols in the midft of their Flight. But what to me was the moft agreeable Spedacle, was the Force of Hercules, fo call'd, but not very properly i for 'tis a Per- formance rather of Slight than Strength : I mean the Exercife of the young Fellows, who build themfelves up into a kind of Pyra- mid, as Mr. Addifon truly terms it, five or fix Stories high. That Gentleman's Account, which perfeftly defcribes the man- Tier of it, makes it needlefs for me to enlarge upon it. The Agility wherewith they perform it, is very pleafing j as is the Va- riety of their Pofitions, which I cannot pretend to defcribe. AM their Icveral Changes are made without the leaftDilbrder or Con- fuTion ; for this Sett of Self-builders T>irtM, adjfcai, mittat quadrata rotrndis^ N do 90 Venice. do build, unbuild and build again, ftill varying their Figure, and all with the greateft Adivity. This, when I law it, was done before the 'Doge's Palace ; but 'tis fometimes pcrform'd in a Boat on the great Canal. On the iS'z/Wd!'^)' following, xhz'Doge's Palace was become a perfcft Amphitheatre for the Caccia del Tauro-, in plain Englipj a Bull-baiting. The poor Animal is turn'd loofc into the Court of the Palace, and an unmerciful Number of Dogs at once fet upon him : You fee Dogs, Bulls, and * Or Gondo- Batkcrolls*, all in a heap together, within his Serenity's Court: Hers, the Tel- but this is to bc taken as another Inrtance of the Venetian lo-BPithatrore Liberty, whcrc the meaneftof the People may make thus free With their Prince ; tho it does not come up to that berorc-men« tioncd, of the perfuming of his Stair-cafes. And now the fatal Day drew near, when the Mafque, and all its attendant Diverfions were to be laid afide : for, to the Ttaz- za di S.Marco now they come, not to fee Bull-baiting and Rope- dancing, but to be fprinklcd by the Prieft with Afhes. Un gran Taffagio ! A great Change 1 as a Nobleman o( Bologna exprefs'd himfelf to me upon the Occafion. This puts me in mind of a Remark I have fomewhere read or heard, faid to be made by fonie remote Indian, who was at Venice, during the time of the Carnaval ; that the People of Venice, about the be- ginning of the New Year, are feiz'd with a fort of Phrenzy or Madnefs ; which goes on itill increafing, till a certain Day, on which a grave Perfon, by fprinkling a fort of Powder on their Head, brings 'em all to their Senfes again. Another Entertainment they have, a pretty robuft one, which is not annual, nor confin'd to the Carnaval, but exhibited upon fome extraordinary Occafions, as when a fovereign Prince, or great AmbafTador is there; It is the Guerr a de'T^igni, apitch'd Battle at Fifty-cuffs between the Cajlellani and Nicoloti [Inhabi- tants of the Diftrids {*Seftieri they call them) dt Cajiello and 5. Nicolas.'^ Their Campus Martins is fome Bridge, generally that of the Carmine, or S. Barnabas : from whence, as there are no Battlements, they oft plunge one another into the Canal, where Ladders are plac'd for them to get out again, and rally. They us'd Cudgels heretofore, but that proving often fatal, they were fince confin'd to the Fift. There * Venice is divided intoi/A: Regions or Diftridtj, \vlu(!h from the^umber ot the whole, are each of chem call'd a Sejliero, or fixth Part. Venice. 91 There is a fwom Inveteracy between thefc two P«irties ; and is fo cntail'd upon their Children, that even the Boys, when they meet, battle each other. This Enmity is encourag'd, and induftrioully kept up by the Senate j who, apprehenfivc of the Force of an unanimous People, ill-treated by their Governours, do this to weaken and divide them ; who if they knew, and confidct'd their Numbers, might become formidable to the No- bles. And as they do by this means make the People really weaker than they would be, fo they have another Artifice to make Themfelves appear ftronger than they are : for, the * Ci- * '^ft^h tadini are allow'd to wear the Robe of the Nobles, and all their -Jiabifdid Habit, except the i3V(?/^, a little Piece hanging from their Shoul- /•'wa/rer. dcr, which does not make a Diftindion very obfervable. And of this, fome aiUgn thcReafon : " That it is to make the Num- " bcr of the Nobles appear the greater, fo that the People may " not be fenfible how few they are that govern them." Tho' I have heard a different Reafon given, That the Nobles, confci- ous how ill they dcferve of the People, and apprehenfivc of the Effcds of their Refentment i think they would be a readier and more diflinguifh'd Mark, if themfelves alone did wear the Robe : and that therefore they wifh it fhould be known, as it very well is, that All are not Noble who wear the Noble Robe ; and fo if a Tlcbeian fhould have a mind to oblige a Tantalone (one or other, for they are hated all alike) with a Stilettata t, he f a stub misiht not pofllblv be fo free to give it ; as not knowing furely j^"^ '^^^",■ iii'i m / 1 mxo, a tittle now, whether he be a ^r ant alone or no. Thus did the ^i\- fin of vag- cient Romans pro\ ide for the Safeguard of their Ancyle, by s^''- making a number of falfe ones, that fothe true one might not be fo eafily fix'd upon. As the Nobles lludy to divide the Populace, fo they affcd to fhew as much Equality among themfelves, as there can be among fuch different Fortunes in the lame Order : For, as fome of them arc vaftly rich, fo others aremiferably poor. Thcle are the Barna- botes 5 fo caird from the neighbouring Church [S. Barnabas'^ where the poor Habitations of many of them are. And that they may appear lefs dcfpicable, the Others fhew not that Gran- deur themfelves in their own Equipage, as their Fortunes would well allow them to do. And that all may be obliged to this Equality, they have Magiftrates, Sopraintendenti deUe Tompey N 2 fome- 9^ Venice. fomewhat like the Roman Ccnfors, who arc to take care It be obferv'd. The Robe of the Nobles is of black Cloth, or Bays ; it is or fliould be the Manufatlurc of Tadita, as has been before cbfervcd : 'Tis not much unlike our Lawyers Gown. In the Winter they have one fac'd with Furr, and bound with a Girdle of the fame about their Waft. They have no Hat, but a wool- len Cap in the fhapc of a deep Crown of a Hat ; but they very rarely wear it , othcrwifc than under their Arm : for they wear large fuU-bottom'd Peruques; which they all have of on« fort or other ; but 1 have fcen many a Cherry-tree adorned with as good as fonie of them. The gayer fort of them, efpc- cially fuch as have travell'd, are not at all in love with their Drefs, but would much rather be equipt with Hat and Sword, as the Gentlemen of other Places are, if their Laws would allow it i but the Power that attends their Drefs reconciles them pretty well to it. Thefc Noblemen (as compofing the Ariftocracy) look upon themfelves as fo many Princes ; and all perfonal Ad- dreflcs arc made to them with the Title of Eccellenza : Their Subjeds, how little foever they love them, fliew them great outward Refpeft. When a NoblemanandTradefman, that know one another, are near meeting, I have feen the later make a Stand {a little out of the way) and make a low Reverence 5 not raifing himfelf till the other is paft him 5 and, as he pafTes by, pronounces the Word Eccellenza. The Magnificence of the rich fhews it felf in their fine Houfes and Furniture ; not as 1 could hear in their Houfe- keeping, any more than in their Drefs or Equipage j for, tho' their fumptuary Laws do extend to their Table, as well as other Matters, there fecms no great Force needful to re- ftrain Luxury in that : tor they are naturally fparing enough in that refped ■. and the grentcft of them arc fuch Occonomifts in afcertaini-ng the Expence of their Table, that they agree with their Cook to furnifh them out fo many Difhes at fuch a certain- Price. One of them, who kept ^French Cook, (he afterwards fcrv'd my Lord 'P^r^'^r) and would have eighteen Diihes on his Table every Day, allow'd but eighteen Lire a-day, [that is, fomcthing Icis than eighteen Six-pcnces Englifh"] to do it wirh. A couple of Eggs, or a little fried ParQey would help to make out the Number. If fome of them live well as to themfelves, they very rarely make Entertainments for others; and this Clofe- Venice. 93 Cldfenefs extends Itfelf, not only to Strangers, whom the Policy of the Place makes them fhy of converflng with, but even to onx; another; fo that when they have a mind for a merry Mcct- inf;, they have it not at their own Houfcs, but at a third Place, where they pay their Club alike. A Houfc where we lodg'd, jointly kept by a French Cook and Confcdioncr, was fomctimes their Rendezvous. The Noble Ladies are allow'd but little Finery any more than the Men: they are by their Laws to go all in Black too: they ate to wear no Jewels, except the firft Year after Marriage : A Gold Chain, Or fome Pearl about the Wrift, is the chief Orna- ment that's allow'd, and the moft ordinary Tradelmen's Wives make fhift to get Ibmewhat of that fort. Thcfe Laws are very ftrift, and the Noble Ladies do for the moft part comply with them; becaufc there is now and then a Super intend ant that puts them in Execution againft all Pcrfons ; tho' generally the Magiftrates wink at the noble Ladies who happen to tranfgrefs. Upon extraordinary Occafions, as when Ibmc fovereign Prince is there, the fumptuary Laws, or the Laws of the Tomp, (as they call 'em,) are fulpcndcd for that time ; at other times the fine Jewels which fome of 'em are poflcfs'd of, are never to fee Light within the City ; and out of it they rarely go : the rather, be- caufe the Situation of the Place allowing no Coach, and their Policy no Equipage at home ; both, if they would go abroad, muft be fet up on purpofe to make a Figure there, and at their Return home would become wholly ufclefs. Wc faw a Ve- netian Lady at Reggio, the Trociirateffa Fofcarini, [Procura- tor Fofcarini's Lady] who for Finenefs of Jewels outfhone all the PrinceflTes there, even the Bride* herfelf, I think. Her Jewels* The [then] arc faid to be worth 5 0000 Pounds Sterling, which at her return "^'"''"f'!^*' home were all to be buried in the Cabinet. The Procurator heri\[odena. Husband was he, who, as I mention'd before, prefided at our^id.?. so- feeing the Trcatury of S. Mark. As the Venetian Ladies can. ufe no Coaches, a fmall matter furnifhes out their Appearance in the City i a G'i9«(i' - ;. F E R RA RA. TH E Streets of Ferrara are the faireft and widefl: of any we faw in Italy : there is no danger indeed of joftling upon any account, for 'tis very thinly peopled. A little Tower, where they keep Guard, fronts the end of the great Street ; which has a very good EfFed : Acrofs that goes ano- ther, ftrait and fair j fo that every way you have a fine View, and nobody to interrupt it. In the Churches here we faw a great many fine Paintings, of Matters who are fcarce known in England, except perhaps by a few Drawings; as Ben- 'venuto da Garofalo, Scarfelino, Monio, Tanetns, Bonon, Car- facio, Francia, T)orfo, with feveral others. One there is, in the Church of S. Maria in Vado, painted by Carpacio, in the year 1508. A Chapel in the Church of S. Francefco, painted in Frefco, by Benvenuto da Garofalo in 1 5 24, in a Tafte lit- tle inferior to Raphael himfelf. In the fame Church there is a Miracle of S. Anthony painted by Bonon: a rich Mifer dying, his Heart was found among his Moneys the Saint re- ftores the Heart to its right place, and the Man to life. Some forcfhorten'd Figures of Bonon, on the Cieling of S. Maria in Vado, raife themfelves the moft eredt of any 1 ever faw painted on a Cieling. The * Scnola della Madonna deU.a Circoncijione, [The School of our Lady of the Circumcifion] has fome excellent Pieces i cfpeciallv a Circumcifion, bv Ludovico Caracci. ' ' Tis * Call'd fbmetlmes La Scala, becaufe you go up Steps to ir. 'Tis jufl: by the Church of S. Fmncefco. The firft mcntion'd Name of this School may perhaps be taken fion- that famous Piece of the Circumcilion, which fo eminently adorns it. Ferrara. 105 Tis pity the Beauties of Co fine a place !ls Ferrara ihon'd be enjoy 'd by fofew; but the Rigour and Extortion of the Tapal Government is aflign'd as a rcafon for it. There are fomc good Bufts of Philofophers, &c. onthe outfide of the?*^/^^^(? Bevelacqua. There is another Palace, call'd the Tiiamond- Talace, [I think it belongs to the fame Family] fo call'd from a fort of Ruftick on the outfide ; the feveral Stones projefting after the manner of Diamonds. We were not within it, be- ino; told there was little to be feen. Our Names were here (as in other places) fent, upon our Arrival, to the Governour, a Vice- Legate of the Tope. We had from him a Permiflion to ftay three Days in Ferrara y and if we wou'd then ftay longer, might have our time enlarg'd by him. It was fpecify'd in the Permiflion, that if any one gave a falfe Name, in cafe he were noble, he fhou'd pay a hundred Crowns, and be immediately banifh'd 5 if other- wife, he fhou'd pay fifty Crowns, and have Tre Tratte di Chorda, Three Plucks of the Cord. The manner of it is thus : The Arms of the Offender arc brought behind him, a Cord is tied to his Wrifts, he is fo drawn up by a PuUy, to the height of an ordinary Houfe, thrice, and let down again. Some have their Shoulders put out, or are otherwife maim'd in the Exe- cution of this Sentence. Over-againft the Dome, which is a fair and large Church, but not fo much adorn'd as ufual in that Country, are two Equeftral Copper Statues, one is of Nicolas Marquifs of EJie^ Ter Tacts Au5for, as he is call'd in the Infcription ; the other is of Duke Borfo^ who was (I think) of the fame Family, and whofe Memory is held precious among the Ferrarefe. FROM Ferrara to Cento we went almoft all the way along the Banks of the Renno, [or httle Rhine -, ] fometimes over a Ridge of a high-rais'd Way : 'Tis fometimes but bad travelling this Road, either above or below ; for 'tis a rich Soil, and ve- rifies our Englijh Proverb, Bad for the Rider, Good for th' Abider. CENTO, lo6 Cento. CENTO. T H E Town of Cento is famous for little ellc than the Multitude of Paintings done by Francefco Barbier't., ufually call'd Guercin del Cento from his fquinting : and with thcfc, tho' poor cnou2;h in other refpefts, 'tis perfectly en- rich'd. As the ancient Romans gave Surnames from fomething par- ticular in the Perfon of the Man, as Cicero-, Nafo, Labio, &c. fo the modern Italians obferve the fame Cuftom j and People are often more generally known by fome llich Nick-name, as * Squinter, this of * Guercino, thofe ofGobbo, Storto^Scc. than they are by the Hunch- Name of their Family ; which indeed is in a manner negleded Baiidy-'letTfT'd. ^'"^ pcrional Addrefles, and the Chrijlian Name only made ufe of; [as Signior Francefco, Giovanni, Thomafo, &c.] in cafe they call 'em by either of their real Names 5 as for our Guercino, he has loft both. Among the Accounts we have of the Pifturcs in Italy, I have not feen any that takes notice of thofe in Cento ; where there are great numbers, very well worth notice, of Guercino and his Nephew Gennaro; with fome few of other celebrated Mailers 5 but thole of the Uncle and Nephew are much the moft numerous. I made a Lift of the chief of them ; but 'twou'd be tedious to the Reader to be troubled with it here. Had Guercin in his Life-time been paid for inch of his Piftures only as he has left in Cento^ but the tenth part of the Mo- ney that they wou'd now yield, were they to be fold, he might have rais'd a great Eftate. We faw about twelve Churches, and four or five Gentlemens Houfcs, cnrich'd by his Works. In the Church del Spirito Santo, wc faw a large Piece with a Multitude of Figures, 'tis the §liiadro de' Tutti Santi, [the Pidurc of All-Saints] which he had but 20 Crowns for painting ; and 1 doubt not but in Italy it felf 'twou'd now take 200 Piftoles ; worfe Piftures I'm fu re have yielded fo much or more. In one of the Gentlemens Houfes [that of Ca- valier Chiarelli, a very obliging Perfon,] befides the Cieling of the Stair-cafe, we faw feven or eight Pvooms, in fome of which the whole Walls, in others the Friezes above the Hangings, were . . , painted Pi EVE. 107 painted by him; fome Hiftorical Subjeds; as the Stories of UlyffeSy oi^^neas and Anchifes ■■, fomc out of Tajfo ; in others, Horfcs, Huntings of wild Bcafts, Landskapcs, and other Fancies Over one of the Chimneys was a Venus and Cupidy with Mars in the Air, an admirable Figure : Thefe are moft of them, if not all, in Frefco. He work'd by the Day ; and, as the Ca- valier told us, had but a Taul per Day, [about 6d. Englijh.} Money fure was then worth more, or Painting Icfs, than it is now a-days. In S. Jeter's Church, we faw a Pifture of S. Francis and S. Bernard in an Ecftafy -, an Angel in the Clouds is playing on the Violin ; and the Harmony overpowers the Saints. This Subject is pretty frequent in Italy. In the Church of the Capucins, out of Town, to which we went along a pleafant Walk from the Town-Gate, is a celebrated Piece of Ludovico Caracci, which they call Guercino's Study. There is in it a Gentleman and his Wife, Donors of the Pifture, recommended by a Capucin to the Blejfed Virgin : and under it is written, Exaudi preces fupplicantiiim TV, Virgo Maria *. A Canal goes from this Gate of Cento to Ferrara ; which is eighteen Miles. ABOUT a Mile from Cento, we came to a little wall'd Place, call'd F'ieve. As I remember they told us. That was a City, which Cento is not ; but that they went from thence to Cento to Market. They were very fcrupulous here about our Entrance into their famous City : The general Road leads along the outfide of itj and though welhew'dour Fede's, they wou'd not let us come in at their Gate, till they had fent to confult theGovernour : We faw fome very good Paintings in three or four of the Churches. The Avenues to this little City were pleafantly adorn'd with fine Rows of Poplars ; and the diftant Grounds fet with Vines, and Mulberry-Trees for the Silk- Worms, with great Quantities of Hemp, which they deal much in here- abouts ; as they do likewife in Bologna. In this Road we met fometimes with a tall Tree they call Sorbolo, the Leaf fomewhatlike that of an Afhi the Fruit is a little like Apples, which they keep to grow mellow in Hay or Straw j and (as a Medlar) is not fit to eat till almoft rotten. P_2 RJ- * Hear thou the Petitions of us, that fupplicate Thee, O Virgin Mary. io8 Ravenna. RAVENNA. I Now return to Ravenna, whofe Antiquity is taken notice of by the ancient Writers, and no wonder it fhou'd now be diftinguifh'd, as it is, by the Epithet Antica. There was an- fPage loi. ciently no occafion for luch a Canal as we came by f, to bring * 'T-aas fo in Boats up hither, for the Sea wafhed the very Walls *. The the time of -j-^^yj^ itf^lf makcs no extraordinary Figure, though the Coun- Honorius. , /- -i i • ' -^ ^ F;,/.C!audian. try bc fertile about It, In the 'Dome is a Chapel painted by Gnido, the Altar-piece and Cieling j the former is Mofes, and the Gathering the Manna, the other is our Saviour in the Clouds, with the Crofs in his Hand, and feveral Angels about him i among which S. Michael is particularly efteem'd. In the former Piece is a Head, not much unlike the famous Turbantina, of the fame Author, in the fine Cloyfter of S. Michael in Bofco at Bologna. Near that Figure is a Woman with a Veflcl of Manna -, very genteel At- titude, and fine Air of the Head. The Church is old Go- thick Architedurc j much Mofaick, but none, that I faw, fine i I mean as to the Defign, for 'tis rich enough : the Floor is Mofaick likewife ; it has fuffer'd much by the fall of the old Roof, a good while ago. The great Door of this Church is made of large Planks of Vine : fome Writers fay there was a pair of Stairs in the Temple of T>iana at Ephefus of the fame fort of Wood i but I don't remember that they mention the length of them: Several of thcfe Planks feem'dtobe lo or 12 Foot lone, at leaft a Foot broad, and above two Inches thick. In the Church of S. Vitalis is a Pidure of Federico Baroccio, 1583. reprcfenting the Death of that Saint. He was drown'd in a Well ; and they fhew the place in the Church behind one of the Altars i the Water of that Well cures all Diftempers, as they tell us. The Body of the Church is a fort of Rotonda i here is a great deal of old Marble and Mofaick, but the Mo- faick is not good. There is in the fame Church a Bajfo Re- lievo of white Marble, rcprefcnting an antient Sacrifice. In the Church of S. Nazarus and S. Celfus, built by Galla 'Placidia, we faw her Tomb, between thole of ^/(?»?/W -■•->'>' O, fe fono piu pietre unite injiemey Mofira d'lma di lor le parte ejlreme. li. If what thou feeft be but one fingle Stone, Tell me by what Device, what Stretch of Art, By what Machine, at fuch a Height 'twas piac'd ; "■'"'• If more than one, fay where tlieir Edges meet. I remember a Latin Diftich, (I think 'tis infcrib'd under one of the Obelisks in Rome) of which the Lines above fcem to be a Tranflation. Si Lapis eft unus, die qua fuit Arte levatusi Vel, Ji funt plures, die ubi contigui. If it's one Stone, what Engine cou'd they find To raife it up ? if more, fhew where they're join'd. On the Top of the Convex Outflde flood the Porphyry-Tomb of Theodoric ; but it was beaten down, as fome write, by a Can- non Ball of Lewis XII. but as the People of the place fay, by a Thunderbolt J which likewife made a great Crack we faw in the Stone which makes the Roof. The Tomb was afterwards brought from thence, and fix'd in the Convent- Wall oftheJVr- colanti •■, where was once the magnificent Palace of that King ; and 'twas therefore they chofe that Situation for it, after it had been fo hurl'd from the Place where it firft flood. The People of Ravenna bewail the lofs of an Equeflral Sta- tue, of Copper, taken from them by the 'P avians : but they boart of having had their Revenge j and now fhew feveral Pieces of ibmc Brazen Gates of Picrc'd-work, hanging under the Arches of a Portico, in the great Piazza, pretended to be part of the Spoils taken by them from the P avians j the reft bein2 Ravenna. Ill being melted down to make a Bell for one of the Churches, as they told us : perhaps to give us fome greater Idea of their Booty than what appear 'd to us ,• for it fhould feem natural for 'em, if fuch was the cafe, to have kept in full View, what Rcprifals they had made upon their Enemy. In the fame Tiazza we faw a fine Copper Statue of Pope Alexander the Vllth, and two other Statues. We left Ravenna, furnifh'd with a double Fede [or Teftimo- nial] one to certify that we were well, the other that we were fick i the former, on account of their Fear of the Plague *, to t^et us entrance intotheir Cities ; and the other (it being /, Ruconem, qui fnpra ad- colmt, I'ocant -, fidtq; olim ft ante O" integra Rep. Romana Lege prohibitum-, ne qnifpiam Artnatus ilium injuffa Magi- Jtratuum tranfgrederetur. Eaq-, Lex loco mota, in quo ab initio, fuit pojita, Marmore Uteris elegant ijfimis etiam nunc 'vijitur : quern libuit heic ponere. Juffum Mandatumve T. R. Conf. Imperator, Miles, Tyro, Commilito, quifqnis es, Manipulariaeve Centnrio, Turmae've Legioniariaei, hie Jiftito, Vexillmn finito, nee citra hnnc am-\ it is [oiu nem Rubiconem Signa, T)u£fmn, Commeatum-ve traducitoS''^''^^^'^^- Si quis hujus jtiffionis ergo adverfns praecepta ierit fece- ritve, adjudicatus efto hoftis T. R. ac ft contra patriam arma tulerit, penatefq-, e ftacris penetralibus aftportaverit. S.P.Q.R. SANCTiO- PLEBISCITI . S • V£ • C. There is in the long Gallery of the Vatican at Rome, a Copy of the Infcription, with the Figure of the Stone, to the beftof my Memory. It is in one of the Geographical Dcfcriptions (which are there painted on the Wall) of the fevcral States and Provinces of Italy. I tranfcrib'd it from thence, and it agrees in Subftance with this of Blond, but there are fome Variations. Particularly, the two firft Words are in the Ablative, Juftii Mandatuve. sTrib.l is between Imp. and Miles. ^ArmateJ is after Commilito. ^Arma deponito^ follows Vexillum ftnito. \_Exercitum'] is between 'Du^um and Commeatum. Inftcad of jP. R. it is S. T. ^. R. And at the End, Ultra hos fines Arma prof err e liceat Nemini. But for the Reader's more diftinft View, I will here add at length the Tranfcript I made from that in the Vatican. There is firft writ by way of Title, S.T.^R. ♦ Q^ An non potius JEmiliA ? quoniam, " Arimino terminari dicitur Flaminia." Jac. Villanius: de quo infra, p. ii6. 1 1^ C E S E N A T E^ S. T. ^ R^ SanBio ad Rubiconis Tontem. And then follows Jtiifu Mandatuve T. R. Cof. Imp. Trib. Miles, Tyro, Commi- lito A r mate, qtiifqnis es, Manipulariave Centurio, Turmave Legionaria Hicjiftito, Vexillnmfmito, Arma Ac^ovi\x.o,nec c'ltra hunc Amnem Ruble onenifigna, T>Hcium, Excixitum, Comrrieatiim- 've tradncito. Siquis hujtifce jujjionis ergo adverfus pr£cepta ier'it feceritve, ad'jiidicatus efto ho ft is S.'P. ^R. acji contra patriam arma tnlerit, Tenatefq--, e facr. penetralib. afportave- rit. S. T. ^. R. Sancfio Tlebifati. S. Ve. C. Ultra hosf.nes arma prof err e Itceat Nemini. Leander, who gives this Infcription, has thefc Additions, which arc not in Blond: Two or three of his Words are oddly penn'd, {Tiron. Commiltton. Arma,'] inftead of Tyro, Comm't- lito, Armate. How his arc to be conftrued, I do not apprehend. Leander further adds, Blondus Tabulam banc Marmoream cum infcriptione fe vidijfe ait, quod mihi fap'e hac eunti ac feduloinquirenti hand licuit, quanquam fort ajfe nunc alibtran- ftata^ aut humo te^a ejfe pojjit, quumfuo loco motamfe vi- dijfe ille dicat. Blondus does not diredly fay Vidi, but Vifitur. Tho' in- deed his defcribing the Beauty of the Charaders does imply his liaving feen it. Cluverius again wonders how it fhould efcape Leander, when it had been feen by Blond but eighty Years be- fore ; declaring that he himfclf had feen it in the publick Way two Miles from Cafena, hard by the Brook commonly call'd Rugone i infcrib'd on a moft white Marble, but in Letters not very elegant. Whether That which Blond, and That which Cluverius faw, were the fame, will admit of fome Doubt : for, not to infift on the quite oppofitc Accounts given by them of the Cha- rafters, one fpcaking of them in the Term of Literis Elegan- tiflimis, the other, Literis baud pulchris,. (becaufc that may appear beautiful to one, which does not to another ; ) there is yet a confidcrable Difference in the Reading of each ; as will ap- pear by the following one of Cluverius^ compar'd with the above- mention'd of Blc?ia^ i ' IVSSV. C E S E N A T E. 115 IVSSV . MANDATVVE . V. R. COS IMP. MILL* TVRO . COMILITO * Both the/. MANIPVLARIEVE . CENT. TUR mrMaref, MiEVE . LEGIONARIOE * . ARMAT « ciuverms. QyiSQ\aS . ES . HIC . SISTITO . VE XILLUM . SINITO . NEC . CITRA HVNC. AMNEM . RVBICONEM SIGNA , ARMA . DVCTVM . CO MEATVM . EXERCITVMVE . TR ADVCITO . SL oyiS . HVIVSCE IVSSIONIS . ERGO . ADVERSVS * ^ [Pr^epta] lERIT . FECERITVE . ADIVDICAT +r""%'ci VS • ESTO . HOSTIS . P. C. t AC. SLCO L S „nd^ NTRA . PATRIAM . ARMA . TVLER «ot ii\k.] IT . SACROS . Q_. PENATES . E . PEN 7th'm. ' ETRALIBVS . ASPORTAVERIT. SA NCTIO . PLEBISCITI . SENATVS VE. CONSVLTI. VLTRA. HOS . FI NES.APvMA . PROFERRE . LICEAT NEMINI Thro' lowly Vales he cuts his winding Way,, And rolls his ruddy Waters to the Sea. ■ His Bank on cither fide a Limit ftands. Between the Gallic and Aufonian Lands. But ftrongcr now the wint'ry Torrent grows. The wetting Winds had thaw'd the Alpine Snows i And C E S E N AT E^ 117 And Cynthia, rifing with a blunted Beam, y In the third Circle drove her wat'ry Team; ^ A Signal fure to raife the fwelling Stream. 3 For this ; to ftem the rapid Water's Courfe, Firft plung'd amidft the Flood the bolder Horfe ; With Strength oppos'd againft the Stream they lead ; While to the fmoother Ford the Foot with eafe fucceed. The Leader now had pafs'd the Torrent o'er. And reach'd fair Italy's forbidden Shore; Then rearing on the hoftile Bank his Head, Here farewel Peace, and injur'd Laws ( he faid : ) Since Faith is broke, and Leagues are fet afide, Henceforth, Thou, Goddefs F(?r/^/^«^, art my Guide, Let Fate and War the great Event decide. Mr. R o w E. Itfhould fcemby Suetomus's Account of the Matter, as if there was a Bridge over the Rubicon when Cafar pafs'd it — Confeciittis^ Cohort eis ad Rubiconem^7/Wi?«, qui pr ovine i a ejus finis erat, pauluni eonfiitit ; ae reputans quant tim moliretur, converfus ad proximo s, Etiam nune, inquit, regredi poffumus--, quod Ji pon- ticulum tranfierimus, omnia armis agenda, erunt — " "Tis not " yet too late to go back -, but, if we once pafs this little Bridge, ** every thing muft be decided by the Sword." The pretended Vxod\^y\,'\\ic\\ Suetonius xcWs us determin'd hinv to pafs it, is pleafant enough -, and (if there was, indeed, any fuch; thing) was doubtlefs an Artifice of Cafar himfelf, to fpirit up> his Army in io critical a Junfture. CunHanti oftentum tale factum ejl. ^lidam eximia Mag^ nitudine & Forma, in proximo fede'nT, repente adparuit, ar un- dine canens i adquem audiendutn, qiium, prater pajiores, plu- rimi etiam ex fiationibus Milites concurrijfent^ interque eos i^- zyEneatores^ rapt a ab uno Tuba,proJiluit ad fiumen -, & ingenti fpiritu clafficum exorfiis pertendit ad alteram ripam- > Tunc Cxfar, Eatur inquit, quo deorum ofienta, & inimicoriim ini- Appianw^^M, quttas 1:0 cat J act a ejt ale a. ^\,.^_ " A Pcrfon of extraordinary Stature and Beauty of a fudden i>r',SHdni- " appear'd near thcni;, fittLnc, and plaving upon a Reed-Pipe. •" « The I l8 R I m I n i. " The neighbouring Shepherds, and many of the Soldiers and " Trumpeters flocking about to hear him, he fnatch'd one of " the Trumpets, and Iprung away to the River j and founding a " Cliargc with an amazing Blaft, made over to the other fide. " Cafar upon this cries out, Let its go, the Prodigies of the " Gods., as -isjellas the Injnjlice of our Enemies, call upon us to " march on % ' the ^le is thrown*." Julius Celfus in his Commentary (if it be his) 'De Vita Julii Cafaris^ calls it Amnem exiguum, fed magnarum tunc limit em Regionum, " A Imall River [or Brook] but at thattimea,Boun- " dary of great Countries." RIMINI [formerly Ariminuml, the next Place of any Note we came to, has two confiderable Pieces of Antiquity ; a Bridge of Marble begun by Augufius, and finifh'd by Tiberius Cafar i as may be feen by an Infcription, along each Battlement, in large Capitals, which are moft of them ftill legible enough ; and, a fair Triumphal Arch, which now fcrves as a Gate to the City. This was rais'd for Augufius Cafar : it confiih only of one Arch. The general Bulk of it remains intire ; and tho' the Infcription be defac'd a little, and made not fo cafy to be read by the disjointing of the Stones in fome Places, one fees they're of a much fairer Character than thofe on the Bridge. There are fome very fmall Remains of an Amphitheatre, which make a Part of the patch'd-up Wall of the Cafucins G^\.^,^\\ behind the Convent. There is a Srone above, on the Outfide, with this Infcription i Amphitheatri olim 'P. Sempronio Cof. excitati Reliquias indigitat Sen. Ar. With an Index thus. They fhew'd us in the Market-place a Stone, in fhape fome- what like a Corinthian Pedeftal : the modern Infcriptions they have given it, fhcw what they would have it pafs for — The Sug- gefium on which Cafar harangued his army after having pafs'd the Rubicon. On the one Side is Cains * Ut Ltifor, Fortuna; reliquum crtilens ; (for fo it has been glofs'd upon) " as one at " Play, who leaves the reft to Fortune." Ant. AugHfiin. Archie}. Tarracenenf. de Humifm. Cff' Antitjuorum ilontimenth. Dial. XI. Rimini.' I19 Caius Cafar 'Di^. Rubicone fuperatOy Civili Bello^ Cont- milit.fuos hie in for o Ar. allocut. On the other fide, Suggejium hunc vetnftate collapfum Cojf. Arint. Menfium Novembris &'T>ecemb. MDLV Refiit. Thefe Conluls are Bimejires [Officers for two Months] as the Gonfaloniers of Bologna ; and thofe who have tranfcrib'd it Ariminenjitim, in one word, have not copied it exadly ; tho' the Difference be not very material, and the Miftake eafy. In Cafar's Commentary De Bello Civili, S. 7, we have an account of a Coneio apudMilites [an Harangue to his Army] 7^tRa- f^w^ before his coming to Rimini {^Ariminum •■,'\ but nothing is faid oi ^Coneio at Rimini ; there is only a mention of his calling in of fome Legions from their Winter Quarters, (^e. and hiis making fome new Levies, during his ftay there : Tho' 'tis not unlikely a Coneio might accompany thofe Proceedings. Julius Celfus indeed does fay, that Cafardid harangue hisArmy ztRimini; and adds, that " when he was a Boy, a Stone was fliew'd in the *' Market-place, on which Cafar was faid to have harangued." Such a Stone, we find, is fhew'd there now ; and is juft fuch a Proof of the Harangue, as one gave of fome unaccountable fort of Kick given by a Horfe : — Sir, if you make any doubt of the Kick, I'll fliew you the Horfe that gave it. They fhew'd us the Church of S. Franeefeo^ built by Mala' tejla. Lord of the Place, Anno 1450, out of the Materials of the old Port. 'Tis not yet finifh'd, nor docs it fcem likely to be fo now. There are Tombs within the Wall on the outfidc, under each Window. We faw, within the Church, the Cell of S. Antonio, where was a fort of Gridiron on the Floor, which he us'd to lay himfelf acrofs for Mortification. We went in this Road, for feveral Miles, along the Sands by the Sea-fide. Some Friends of ours, whether caught by the Tide, tho' it do not rife high here, or by fome other Accident, had a Seafoning in the Salt- Water. From Veniee, where the Tide riles full four Foot, it diminifhcs gradually (as they fay) till be- fore the end of the Gulph it comes to nothing at all. ABOUT a Mile fhort of a little Town they call Cattoliea, we pafs'd the Kiwc^Coneba in a Cart drawn by Oxen : 'twas lio high 120 P E S A R a' A N C O N A. high \yc could noi: get through it iii the Chaife. It rifesveiy iuddcnly, as vnany of the Rivers in //^/y do, by reafon of the Currents that fall from the Mountains. A\'e fow feveral Towers by tlic Sea-fide, all along from Ra- 'venna : [one we faw before at Candian} in each of which was a fmall Garrifon, as a Defence agaiu'ft the T)ulcigneot -Turks whoinfcilthofc Coafts: notwithftanding which, they once gut- ted Cattolica of its Goods and Inhabitants, 'PESARO [call'd Tifaimmhy Cafan is a pretty pleafant City, the Houfes good, the Streets clean and even, all pav'd with Brick fct edge-ways. We faw Ibme good Paintings here of *SV- mon Contarini, ufually caXYASimon deTefaro--> but no Antiqui- ties. There is in the great "Piazza a fine Fountain, and a Sta- tue of Pope Urban VIII. .• WE made no Stay at Fano or Senegallia, but came ftrait to Ancona: There we law a beautiful Arch of white Marble, made in Honour of Trajan j " For that out of his own Money *' he made the Port fafer for feafaring People," ^lod ex pe- ciinia fiia portiim tutiorem 7iavigantibus reddiderit, ^s fays the Infcription, which is very fair and well preferv'd ; the Letters being large, and cut very deep. The Arch is only a fuigle one, between Pillars of the CVmi^i'/^;? Order. The. Key- Stone of the Arch is fhrunk much, but in no prefent Danger of fal- ling. From hence wc had a fine View of the Port, which lies juft under it. Their Town-Hall, or Exchange, is a handfome Building, and well adorn'd with Paintings on the Cieling, &c. The City is larger than any we came through in this Road -, but nothing fo beautiful as Pefaro : 'it is uneven to walk in, by reafon of many Afcents and Defcents. We faw fome good Paintings in the Churches of Titian, Barocci, Gnercino, &c. At our Entrance into this Town, the Officers of Health receiv'd our Fede at the end of a long Reed ; and lb fmoak'd it over Frank- incenfe, &c. before they touch'd it. LO RETO is a little City fituated on a pleafant Eminence ; the Title of a City was given to it by Sixttis V. whofe Statue in Lore TO. ill in Copper is in the Tiazza before the Church. The Sta- ple Trade of this place confifts in little Crucifixes, Rof.iries, and Medals [of the Bleffed Virgin and Bamb'mo\ to hang at cm; with Mcafurcs of the Length of the Holy Image of Lo- reto, on which are mark'dtiiG, particular Mealures of the Head and Wafte. The former being^^bound about the Head, they tell you will infallibly cure Pains in that Part j and the later ap- plied to the Wafte of Women in Labour, will lave the Midwife the trouble of Attendance. The Story of the Santa Cafa [Holy Houfe] being iirought hither by Angels from Nazareth, with its feveral Stages, and its being fix'd here at laft } the Light that fhone over it in its Pallage 5 the celellial Harmony that attended its Motion, with the Obeyfancc the tall Trees made to it in a Wood where 'twas once fet down, is given with all its Circumftances in little Books they put into your Hands there ; and may be met with in Ibmc of our Englifli Itineraries. The Houfe flands in the middle of a great and fine Church ; which they have built about it, as well for further Security as Vene- ration. Tis again more nearly encompafs'd by a moft: beau- tiful Cafe of white Marble j but that not fo as to touch; which they tell you 'twas once intended it lliou'd have done, but the Stones had more Manners than the Mafons ; for when they were going to place 'em fo as to touch the Sacred Wall, they immediately rccoil'd back of themfelves, nor cou'd they be got nearer than about a Foot, which is the prefent Di- Itance from the fine Marble Cafe to the plain Brick-Wall : For That, and no other, is the Material of the Holy Houfe ; Bricks of unequal Size and Shape, with flat Bits of fome other Stone here and there intcrfpers'd : tho' they tell you 'tis all of a Stone, not found mitalj, but frequent about iV^;s^r^/^>6 ; to facilitate the Belief that it was brought from thence. The Figure of it is an Oblong of two Squares or thereabouts : the Length within may be about 30 Foot. It ftands dueEaftandWeft. Towards the Eaft End there is a Separation, made by a Grate- work of Silver, of a part which may be about a fourth of the whole : This they call the Sancinary ; and here ftands the Holy Image. The o- ther part, which is as it were the Body of the Houfe, has at the upper-end an Altar, and at the lower, [/". e. the Weft] a Window, through which, they tell you, the Angel cnter'd at R the Ill LO R E T O. the Annunciation. The Walls of this part are moft of them left bare, to fhew the true original Fabrick. But there are fome forry fcatter'd Dabs of Painting on irregular Fragments of Plaifter ; thefc are moft of them Madonna's, it is pretended that Lewis IX. they were done at Nazareth by order of S. Lewis of FrancBy when he made his Expedition thither, for the Recovery of the Holy Houfc, and Holy Land, from the hands of the Saracens j and that we therefore fee his Pifture there, he having ordcr'd it to be done among the" reft, out of Devotion to the Blejfed Virgin. The Rudenefs of the Paintings feems to me to have been induftrioufly dcfign'd, the better to cover the Holy Fraud, aiid give the greater Colour to the Story of its having been painted at Nazareth. In the San^uary, over the Chimney, which they fay the Blejfed Virgin made ufe of, ftands, in a Niche of Silver, her rich Image, about four Foot in height, with that of Chrifi in her Arms ; but He is in a manner hid, by a golden Globe he holds in his Left-hand -, the Right-hand is held up, as in the Ad of Blefling. The Image, they pre- tend, is Cedar of Lebanon-, carv'd by the Hand of S. Luke ; The Scripture tells us he was a Thyjlcian, the Italians have made him a fainter too, and thofe of Loreto a Sculptor into the bargain. The dark Complexion of our Lady wou'd befpeak her an Indian Queen, as well as the glittering Luftre of her Robes, than which nothing can be more rich i and of thefe flic has great Variety, for the feveral Feajis that are held in honour of her ; of which that is not the leaft which commemorates the Removal of her Habitation from Nazareth to Loreto j She has a Triple Crown on her Head. This Holy Houfe is perfeftly crouded with great Lamps, of which they reckon 62, Gold and Silver. One of the golden ones, they fay, weighs 37 Pounds, which was prefcntcd. Ex Voto^ by the RepubHck of Venice, for their having been delivered by our Lady oi Loreto from a Plague, with which the neighbouring Countries were infefted. Befides the Lamps, there arc Angels too of mafllvc Gold, which wait about the holy Image. One of thefe, hold- ing a Heart of the fame Metal in his Hand, fet thick with Diamonds, and a Flame of Rubies at the Top, was prefented by our King 'James the lid's Qiiccn. The Walls of the Sanduary arc as it were wainfcoated with Silver ; being intirely cover'd with L O R E T O. U^ with Plates of that Metal, which were fix'd there, Ex Voto, for Deliverances of feveral forts. In the Rcpofitory within the Sanctuary, they keep with great Veneration fome Earthen Veflels, which they fay the Hoi y Family cat out of*. The Touch of one of thefe is fufficient to cure fome Diftempei-s ; but Wa- ter drunk out of one of them will remove the moft malignant. The Outer-Cafe, which has already been juft mention'd, is of the fineft Marble of Carrara -, and a moft beautiful Architefture. The Order is Corinthian, with a Balujlrade a. top. The Pil- lars, which are plac'd two and two, have, in their narrower Intervals, Niches one above another ; in the upper Row are the ten Sibyls, in the lower as many ^Prophets ; in the broader Intervals are Bajfo Relievo s, reprefenting the Story of the Blejfed Virgin. The Sculpture is very good, by Sangallo, San- fonjin, Baccio Bandinelli, and other the bcft Matters of thofe times. It has two Doors on each fide : At our going in, our Swords were taken from us. Fair warnine; to unarm is given over one of the Doors j Ingredient es cum armis fttnt excom- viunicati : " All who enter here with Arms, are iJ)fo facio ex- " communicated." The crawling of the Pilgrims round the Holy Houfe on their Hands and Knees, faying over their Beads, every now and then killing the Ground as they creep along, is very ridiculous ; but fhews fo low a Degree of Weaknefs and Folly, as provokes Pity rather than Laughter. Befides the rich Ornaments of the Holy Image, of the golden Angels, and Gold and Silver Lamps ; there are many Jewels of great Value within the Holy Houfe i but, thefe arc nothing in comparifon to the Trcafury which is hard by : where the vaft Number, Variety, and Richnefs of the Jewels, of the Veftments for the Holy Image, and for the Pricfts ; with the prodigious Treafure of all forts, does almoft furpafs Imagination i far, far beyond the reach of Defcription. How prodigal the Devotion ! How great a Gain is here made of God- linefs ! The Room where this Treafure is kept, is fpacious and fine; the Cieling is painted in Compartiments by the Cavalier 'Pomerancio, and there is a Crucifixion at the upper-end, for an Altar-piece, by the fame hand. The Divifions of the Com- partiments are of gilded Stucco [Plaiftcr-work]. They fhew'd us what they very fcldom fhew, for 'tis kept fhut up in a fort R 2 of 12^ Fo L I G N Oi of Prefs, a Madonna, of Raphael, with a Chriji lying on his Back, the Legs and Arms flung up. In the Gallery at ^arma there is one of the fame 5 and they are both avow'd to be Ori- ginals : They are both very fine Pidures. In the Church, which is very fpacious, are fome very good Paintings by Hanibal Caracci, Federick Barocci, Simon Voiiet and others. There are three fine brazen Gates at the Entrance, and the whole Front is very noble. The Apojlolick Palace, as they call it, which is juft by, is a fine Strufturc, the Defign of Bramante. Under it are large Vaults, furnifh'd with Buts of Wine of a fuitable Bulk i iot the life of the Attendants of the Holy Houfe, and the Refrefhment of Pilgrims. If the Treafure within the Holy Walls be fiirprifing, the Po- verty without fecms not lefs fo ; fiich Shoals of Beggars, and thofe fo exceflively importunate ! they foUow'd us from the Church to our Inn, and were fcarcc to be kept out of our Chambers. The relieving of fome was only drawing a greater Crowd upon you. But, let who will ftarve without, the holy Corban within is not to be touch'd. FROM Loreto, having pafs'd through Recanati, Macerata, and Tolentino, where nothing very remarkable occurr'd, wc foon after cnter'd the spermine Mountains, tedious enough in the Paffage, by rcafon of the many rugged Afcents and Defcents, and fometimes dangerous Precipices : but the vaft Variety of Prc^- Ipeds made good Amends. If fome of thefe were rough and horrid, almoft beyond Imagination, the Novelty even of That was not without its Entertainment ; at leaft, this very fure Eftcd it had, that by fo ftrong, and fometimes fudden Oppofition, it fet off in a moft fnrprifmg manner, the moft delicious Vales in the World. This fully fhew'd it felf in the Vale of Foligno, than which nothing can be more beautiful. This City fcems fituatcd in the midft of a vaft Garden ; fo even is the Plain 5 fo well water'd, cultivated and planted : The Mountains all about it look like fo many high Walls to the great Garden. In a Convent of Nuns at Foligno, ['tis that called La Con- . teffa'] we faw a moft admirable Picture of Raphael: 'twas painted " by order of Mifere Gifjnondo Conti, Principal Secretary to Pope JuUq F O L I G N O. 115 Jul'w II. "iSi^Sora Anna Conti, (a Nun of that Convent) Niece to Gifmondo-, caus'd it to be brougiit from Rome, and fix'd there. Anno 1565; as appears by an Infcription under the Picture. No doubt, confidering who 'twas done for, i?^/^^^/ exerted all the Skill he was mailer of, in this Piece. The Sub; eft is a Madonna and Bambino in the Clouds ; below, on one fide arc S. JohnBaptiJi and S.Francis ; on the other fide are likewife two Figures J the Countenance of one of them is fo like that of S. Carlo Borrhomeo, that, had he not been later than Raphael's time, I fhou'd have taken it for him : The other I take to be the Gentleman for whom the Picture was made j which is a way very frequent among them. In the middle of the lower part, ^ a little Angel Hands on the Ground, holding a fmall Box, or Casket, in his Hand. The whole Picture is moft highly finifh'd > yet not fo as intheleaft to diminifh the Spnit of theDefign ; it has the Neatnefs of Carlo T)olci, with the Genteelnefs and Ma- jefty of its real Author ; and the Colouring, (let fome fay what they will of Raphael in that particular) is no way inferior to its other Excellencies. It is now the great Altar-piece to the Church of the Convent ; a Treafure which feems very little xxw- derftood by the Ladies who are PofTeflbrs of it. I have feen Prints of the Madonna and Bambino, without the other Figures. A very pleafant ftrait Way, like a Walk in a Garden, of more than a Mile, leads from the Gate of Foligno to a pretty Village. ANOTHER fmall Town, about four Miles further, call'd Tre-va, fituated on a round Hill, ower than the great Mountain, is a very pleafant fight ^ it feemd very compacl; and a Spire Steeple juft in the middle of it has a very good Elf eft. TESIGNANO, about two Miles further; and fcvcral little Villages and finglcHoufcs in the Way between it and »5/)u ^M/' 97/a/^'^/^ ^/^u^^ if\y///^/€/j///j /^^ar ^ir/// ^ i/in /t"/ 1, N A R N I. IJI Bridge arc by riany Degrees lower than thofe of the antique one, and yei fuificient for any Height of Water. The Epigram oi Mar- tial- Oiought in Proof of its being a Bridge, may perhaps not very improperly be applied to an Aquedudl. Sed jam par ce mihi, nee abut ere, Narnia, Quinto % 'Perpetuoliceat Jic tibi Tontefrui. Lib. 7. Ep. 92; Prefcrve my better Part, and fpare my Friend, So, Narnii may thy Bridge for ever ftand. Mr. Addison. The ancient Aqueducts, as is well known, were brought over Arches, in the Manner of Bridges; and from the Refemblance of this to a Bridge, a Poet might well be juftified for calling it one. Then, the Word [_frui'] may be thought to imply a Benefit fomewhat greater than that of a Way over a Bridge i and the Epithet Iperpetuo^ frequently applied to Fountains, not impro- perly be transferr'd to a Conveyance of Fountain -Waters. The Arches of this are indeed much wider than thofe common to Aquedufts ; but the Remains of thofe we fee are generally over Trads of Land ; this over a River ; rapid fometimes, as moft of the Rivers of Ifafy are, by reafon of the fudden melting of the 5r->w off the Mountains. This Bridge, or Aquedud, has confifted of, I know not whether to fay, three or four Arches j but leave the Reader to judge by the annexed Draught. The firft Arch only is intire ; 'tis a wide, and very high one. This had no Water under it. The fecond is ftill much wider, fa id to be 1 70 Foot, but feems never to have been fo high as the firft : and the Spring of this Arch is much lower on the further than the nearer fide of it ; nor do the Parts of the Arch itfelf feem to correfpond, which would make one almoft think that the whole Bafis had funk, on which the further fide of tliis Arch, and the nearer fide of that beyond it depended ; and thereby occafioned the Ruin of both. The remaining Part, I am moft inclin'd to believe, muft have been two Arches more. The chief Reafon for the contrary, is, that That which fiiould be the Balis from whence they had fprung, has no Refemblance, as to irs Structure, to the other two ; and might therefore have poflibly been no moBc than a plain fquare Pillar, rais'd to fupport the Middle of tiiat vaftly wide Arch (as it muft liave been, if only one) S z when Iji U T R i C 6 L f. when they found it going to ruin. But, as there Is no exad Cor- refpondence in thofc undoubted Bafcs which do remain, this Ob- jeftion may have no force, nor hinder but that the Number of the Arches may have been four. It is all built of Marble : the Pieces are very large, and join'd without any Cement, that we could difcover j as feveral other antique Buildings are. I have been the more particular in my Account of this Piece of Anti- » Mr. Addi- quity, bccaufe it is called by a celebrated * Writer one of the ftate- fon. Y^^^ Ruins in Jtalj. Returning from hence, we clamber'd t Narni. up a fteep Hill into the + Town 5 which has the Name of a City, but is a very poor one ; and wc had in the Town it felf a Speci- men of the rough Roads we were to enter upon afterwards, which lafted till we came near Utricoli-, about eight Miles from Narni. A little below the Road, on the right hand, we went to fee the Remains of the old Ocriculum ; where are many loofe antique Fragments, and fome intire Vaults, now cmploy'd only to put Sheep and Cattle in ; the Walls were moft- ly of Brick, laid in the Manner which they call Opus Reticula- turn, or Network, as here reprefented. Being paft Utricoli, we had now an Ear- : of fome fort of approach towards Rome, iflingaBridge over the River 77^fr j tho* had yet above thirty Miles to go ; about twenty of them (but with fome Difcontinu- were over the old Flaminiari'Wxy ; ^ ^ with broad flat pieces of hard Stone ^{/V^X^OvO'y t feem'd a fort of Marble '] of irregular Fi- tixi^^i^&jil gure; as the other old Conlular Ways, we pafs'd over afterwards, are. As we proceeded on towards Rome, we pafs'd (at fome Di- ftance) by the Mount Scrapie of Horace. Vides tit alt a ft et nive candidiim Soradle. L.\. Od.ix. See how SoraBe's Mountain fcarce fuftains Her hoary Load ! It appear'd (as I remember) of a roundifli Figure, as the Rekin in Shropfhire, and had then on its white Cloathingof Snow. The modern Italians, who arc for Sainting every thing, call I it S. AI A R I N O." V E L I T R r. 1 33 it S. Orefte. Monf. 'T>acier fays 'tis now call'd Monte San-Syl- 'veftro, and, by corruption, Monte Trefto. There is indeed fome Convent or Hermitage at the Top of it, call'd S. Sylveftro -, but the Mount it felf is called S. Orefte, and is fo mark'd in the Map of the Campagna of Rome. About two Miles (as they call 'cm, but they arc but little ones) fliort of i?(?w^, we pafs'd the T/^^r again, ovcx: i\\cTonte Molle, anciently Tons Milvius, famous for the Defeat of Maxentins by Conjiantine. When we enter'd the City, the Poftilion durft not fct us down at the Inn -, but brought us ftrait to the "Do- gana, or Cuftom-houfe, to have our Baggage fcarch'd for contra- band Goods, or prohibited Books ; but they gave us little Trouble ; a Imall Gratuity made the Search very eafy. We were pefter'd much more with Crowds of Valets, wrapp'd up in their Cloaks ; who are always there ready to offer their Service to Strangers upon their Arrival. We made but a Hiort Stay at Rome this time > taking the ufual Method of Travellers, in going to fee Naples, before the Wea- ther grew hot j and accordingly fet out for that Place the i7tli of March, N. S. and lay that Night at Tiperno, the Trivernum of the Ancients j about fifty Miles from Rome. At the End of the firft Poft, we pafs'd through an Arch of an old Aquedud, which we faw extended a great way, but with fomc Interruptions. A T S.Marino, the fecond Poft, we faw in a Church a Picture of Guercin del Cento, the Flaying of S. Bartholomeiv, the bcft Colouring and greatcft Style of any of his Works that I remem- ber to have feen. AT Vel'itri, the next Poft, a fmallCity, AugnftusCafar is faid to have been born : The People of that Neighbourhood in Suetonius s Days thought fo, tenet q\ vicinitatem opinio tanquam ^ ibi n at It's Jit 5 and at this Day the Inhabitants fay the fame thing: '^wt Suetonius iz^%, he was born at Rome, tho'nurs'd hi- deed near Velitri. From hence we pafs'd thro' Cifterna to Sermo- netta. About iy^rw^wf/^/^^ there is a great deal of Sulphur. Wc pafs'd thro' a Brook that was all over white with it, and Imclt very ftrong of it. Thence to Tiperno, which are two Ports, we had the moft horrid Road for a Chaifc that, I think, can be pals'd : great Fens. 134. S E T I A. great rough Stones, and as bad in every rcfpcd as a Way can be that ispalVablc at all. In the firft of thole Ports, between i^^r- monetta andC^?/^ Nuove, they Ihcw, what they lay are the Re- mains of the three Taverns, where S. "T aid's Friends met him. O N the Hill above, is the City Setia ; in whofe Neighbour- hood grew the Vlnum Setinum, formerly lb famous : Tis calFd by Martial Tendula Setia, from its Situation near the Brow of the Hill. : . '. -' : Tendula Pontinos qu£ fpe^iat Setia campos, Exigua vetulos mijit ab urbe cados. L. xiii, Ep. cxii. • f^' »■''■"''!■'' Setia, which penfile vie ws the Tontine Fens *, "suuof thefe Old Hogflicads from her little City fends. Nee qua pahides delicata Pomptinas Ex arce clivi fpeEtat uva Sctini. L. x. Ep. Ixxiv. • * Nor the delicious Grape, which from the Brow Of Setia views the Tomptine Fens below. It's Wines arc frequently celebrated by this Poet, and other ancient Writers. TUjij fays that Auguflus preferr'd this Wine to all others, and that it grew above the Appii Forum. "Divus Auguftus Setinum Vinum pratulit cunBis : nafcitur fupra Fo- rum Appii, Nat. Hift. L. 14. C. 6. This Pafla-ge feems to be a Proof that the three Taverns were hereabouts, being mention d •in the y^^jofthc Apoftles zs.wz'xx. Appii Forum i which we find here by Tliny was below the Setine Vmeyards. For Curiofity, we call'd for fome, of what they have now, to taftc, but found it very indifferent j and we were told that now-a-days they are fo far from fending Wine from thence to other Places, that they fetch it from Frefcati, Velitri., and other Parts thither : Tis a white Wine, asmoftofthe//^//^« Wines are. Hereabouts, and further on towards Naples, we faw a great many of the Ficus Indica, which arc much larger in thcfcthan .in the other Parts of Italy. In this Road wc pafs'd through Herds of Buffaloes, a four fort of Animal, already mcntion'd : They are very frequent in thcfc Parts. They arc fo lluggifh, that tho' we ftuck the Points of our Swords into their Hides, we could hardly make 'em ftir out of our way. BEFORE Vl A A PP 1 A. 155 BEFORE \vc came to T^rrflaw^, we entcr'd on the Appian- Wav • we faw it continued alone; a marrtiy Ground on our right T'^' Paiudej •' . ... . ^ 1 i^ I J Pomptinas hand, which would have been a nearer way than what we had^^^J.^,^. come i but 'tis now unpaflable, by reafon of the Condition of the»o»v/. Marfhes. Tho' in fome Places it be much broken, and the travel- ling over it very bad, in others it is wonderfully well preferv'd, not- withftanding it be computed to be near two thoufand Years old. I know not how the ancient noble Romans came to take fuch fhort Journeys over this Way, which was then in its Perfeftion, as not above fourteen Miles in a D.iy : So computed from Ho- race's Account of his Journey from Rome to Brundujium ; when in our Return from Naples to Rome wc travell'd above fifty Miles a Day, and one Day the much grcateft part of our Road was over this fame Via Appia in the very unequal Condition 'tis in at prefcnt. But, we muft not judge of this Way by Horaces Account of his Stages i nor reckon That the common rate of Travelling inthofe days : iox Horace tells us plainly that he and his Companions made two Days of it from Rome to Appii Fo- rum 5 which more diligent Travellers had made but one : Hoc iter igna'vi dividimus, altiiis ac nos Tracinifis unum. and then immediately adds Minus ejl gravis Appia tardis i *' that the Appian was the leaft irkfome to Travellers that were ** not in hafte ■■, " as intimating Choice of Inns on that Road, for fuch as like to take fhort Journeys ; for fo is this Paffage explain'd by more than one Commentator, and not of the Difagreeable- nefs to be carried in hafte over this Pavement. The middle part of the W^ay, /'. e. where the Horfes, Coaches, (ire. go, is about four Yards wide, and fiat, not rais'd at all with a Round- nefs m the Middle of that part j nor docs it appear ever to have been rais'd fo ; for notwithftanding its Age, and the Allowance for its wearing in the Middle, had it ever been fo rais'd, it might bedifcover'd, even now, in one part or other : A flat Border is rais'd, on each fide, for Foot-people : We law feveral of them walkingalong with Sandals, made of Buffalo's Hide. On each fide wc law Rcmams of feveral old Monuments, now much cf- fac'd. It lies in fomc parts lower than the adjacent Grounds ; and 136 \ T E R JR. A c I N A. Fundi. and was, when \vc went over it the firft time, Co overflow'd with Water, by the Fall of abundance of Rain, that it ran hke a Brook all along it. This Toas ABOUT the Midway hctv/ccn Terracina and Fundi v/c leave the 'P<3/'f''s Dominions, and enter the Kingdom of Naples. JNear the Road-fide we obferv'd an hifcription on a fort of Monu- ment fct up by Thiltp the Second of i5)'rf!/«. H'tfimt Fines Regni Neap. Si amicus "veneris, omnia arnica invenies, & pulfis malis niorihuSj bonas Leges. " Thcfc arc the Bounds of the Kingdom " of Naples : If thou comcft as a Friend, thou n-iak find every " thing friendly, and, upon thy putting away ill Manners, " the Pxotedion of good Laws." This hifcription the Pofti- lions call'd an Epitap/j, led to it (perhaps) by others, that were really fo, on the Sepulchral Monuments along this Road. Within three Miles of Fundi they demanded our Paflports, which we had from Cardinal Althan at Rome-, without which tefirelis nouc is to cutcr the Kingdom ofAT^^/^'j. Emmencevfas In this Road wc mct with abundance oC Bay -Trees, Laurus- thiit''lmgdom.tinits. Myrtle ; and another Tree which is much like it, but was a longer Leaf, they call it Turtella ; Spina Ulpina with a Leaf like Rue, and a yellow Flower : Genefter, the fimc as our Broom : Vefcovel, which fpires up after the Manner ofRofcmary, and fuch a colour'd Flower, but for the reft, more like Juni- per : One call'd it Rofetta, z.\\ot\^^\.Scopetta, for they make Be- foms of it. We were forc'd to take fuch Names as the Country People gave us : What fort of Botanifts they were, I know not. Ventrefchi, much rcfembling the Turtella ; of the Berries of this they make Oil for Lamps, &c. 'Tianello, like the L/cino i this bears a Fruit which they ufc in Horfe-Phyfick. All thefe arc Ever- greens j as is likcwife the Cork-Tree, iSugharc] We pafs'd thro' large and pleafant Woods of them s they are large and fprcading Trees, as our Oaks in that particular ; the Leaf direft- ly like theirEver-green Oak, which likcwife is a large Forcft-Trcc. As we walk'd along the y^ppiafi-Wciy, (which we were induc'd to do for a while, thro' the Pleafantneis of it) we had the better Opportunity to obfervc great Qiiantities of all of them. When this Way was in its Pcrfedtion, adorn'd with the many Monuments, now in Ruins, and fuch Variety of Evergreens on ccvch Fund i. i j7 each /ide, the feveral Objeds (tho' fomc of them Memento's of Mortality) muft have been entertaining to the Eye ; and might flackcn a Traveller's Pace ; and in that Senfc too one might truly fay with Horace •Minus efi gravis Appia tardis. We faw a great many Orange-Trees in the Orchards about Terracina and Fundi, and fomctimes in the Hedges about the Fields : tho' in the Northern Parts of Italy they are nurs'd with the fame Care as with us j fuch as are not hous'd, having a thatch'd Shed over them in the Winter. Indeed about S. Remo I faw feve- ral growing in the Orchards and Fields, as in the Parts I am now fpcaking of i but then wc muft confider their Situation, defended by the Mountains from the North Winds, and having the South Sun direft, and its reflected Beams likewife coming from the Sea» full upon them. Near Terracina-, Galba was born, according to Suetonius s in a Village that lies under a Hill, on the left hand as you go to Fundi. Ser. Galba natus eft in Villa collifuppofttd, prope Ter- T[2iQmzvc\Jiniftrorfum lundospetentibus. Terracina is for Trachina, from the Greek t^a^lvn, afpera^ rudis, ( according to M. Tiacier ) by reafon of the rough Rocks on which 'twas lituated. It was anciently call'd Anxur, or Axur i becaufe Jupiter S.imberbis'] was worfhip'd there under that Name. Horace gives us its Situation, upon white Rocks j with its old Name, Anxur, Impofitum fdxis late candeniibus Anxur. Sat. v. L. i . Fundi isfituatedin a Plain, at the Bottom of a Hill, and pcr« liaps has thence its Name; as another Town in our Road thither, which is fituated on the Top of a Hill, is call'd Montagnella or Monticella. The Appian-VJzy goes all along it i and care is taken to keep the Streets of the Town well pav'd, perhaps with Stones taken out of the broken part of the Way i for 'tis in many Places difcontinucd. At Fundi, Tiberius was by fome fuppos'd to have been born, as Suetonius tells us, tho' he diilents from them, and fays, " that more, and thofe of better Authority, tell us he was born *' at Rome, in the Palace lo'ixhz Augufti"^ Tiber ium quid am T Fundis 138 M 01/ ^A. Fundls nattim exiftmaverunt -, feciiti levem conjeBuram, quod Materna ejus Av'ta Fundana faerit ; & quod mox Jimula- chnim F elicit at is, ex Senatus Corifulto, ibi public atum fit. Sed lit plures certiorefque tradmity natus eji Romse, in 'Palatio. • From Fundiy in our way to Mola, we pafs'd thro' Groves of Olive-Trees, at leaft eight Miles, the Appian-Wzy continuing all along thro' Itru^ &c. A T Mola, [anciently Formia'] we faw what they call'd Cice- ro s Garden, {.Villa Formiana~\ : they led us through feveral long Vaults under ground ; the Wet by long, trickling down had per- fectly enamel'd fome of the old Walls with a hard Cruft. What they call his Garden (which is now an Orchard of Orange-Trees) was doubtlefs formerly, at leaft a good Part of it, the Floor of a Houfe built over thofe Vaults, for in feveral Places the Remains of the Pavement iMofaick in fome parts] do ftill appear : the reft might have been the ancient Garden. They fhew a round deep Bafon, which they call his Fifh-pond, at prefent dry. There are Fragments of other old Walls, now wafh'd over with the Sea-waves, but plainly to be feen under them. That Cicero had a Filla at Formia, as well as at feveral other Places, is not at all doubted i his own Epiftles prove it ; but 'tis not fo free from Doubt that This was the very Place of it. The Extent of this Ruin, and the Appearance there is of ancient Magnificence, feem to befpeak it rather to have been the Palace of the Mamurr£. Formia is call'd by Horace, the City of the Mamurra i where he fays he took up, when tired with the Journey. - In Mamurrararum laffi deinde Urbe manemuSy probably becaufe the Mamurra deduc'd their Originc thence ; and further, becaufe in M.'Dacier's O-^'mion, the City did belong to Ma'inurra; Car, cet Amy de Ca;far (fays he) efloit un des plus riches hommes de Rome. " For, this Friend of Cafar's was one " of the richcft Men in Rome." It is not therefore neceflary tc^ conclude tlv? moll: remarkable Ruin of Formia to have been the Remains of Cicero's Villa, rather than Mamurrds, who was Proprietor of the whole Place. The ftill more ancient Names of M O L Ao i|9 a^ Mola befides that of Formic*, and likewife i/^m//^, were Lami Urbs, Antiphata "Domus, and Urbs Lajlrygoymm'. Vou have the Reafon of the three laft in Ovid, who calls it by the Name of the fii-ft. Inde Lami veterem Lxftrygonis, inquit, in Urbem Venimus, Antiphates terra regnabat in ilia. Ov. Met. L. XIV. a Guft, which bore "^ Our Gallies to the Lteftrigonian Shore, > Whofe Crown Antiphates the Tyrant wore. 3 Garth. *Tis into this Port between Mola and Cajeta that Homer brings Ulyjfes .zvid his Friends, Odyjf. x. where they were fo frighted with that gigantick Breed of Man- Eaters the robull Lafirygons, tf^ifjLoi Axic^'piiyoini f. ■ — ■' — VK tz,»a^f>5(ra'if foiKOTSf aAAa i lya^t. ■ tIw S'i yvyaixat, Eugpv ocrav T cp€(^ xopvipluj • ^ VVhofe Queen they found, vaft, as a Mountain's Top. T 2 I * Opfidtim Formix, Hormis ante dictum tit exiftimavere, antiqun Lxibygonum fedes, Pliny 1. 3. c. f. " The Town FormU, before that HormU, (as fonie have thought) " the ancient Seat of the Lsflrygons." It was call'd HormU, according to Strabo: •tofixiai, AaKavitiovxrUij.ay'Ofij.tat'JieyoixivoviMraivafij.ov. " Tormii was bu'lt by a Lacenian, " call'd alfo Honnu, from its being an excellent Station for Ships." Mr. Pope'i Annotat. to OdyfTey, L. x. f T|licfe Ltftrygons were Sicilians, according to Thucydicles, L. 6. Mr. Tope, to an- other Part of the fame Odyjfey, fays, " It is. evident that the Ltftrygons alfo inhabited For- " mit, a City oi Campania rteir Cajeta . Thus Horace, Lib. 3. Oil. 17. " ^li, zetHJlo nobilis al Lamo — ■ " Aitciore ah illo diicit Originem " _^ii Formiarum moeriia dicitur " Princeps "Bacier" [to obviate the DitHculty of their being call'd Sicilians hy fome, by others C/i»;. paniaiis,'] " anfwers, That they were originally Sicilians, as appears from P/iwy, L. 3. C.8. " Flumina, Symxthus, Terias, intits La:ftrygonii campi, oppidum Leontini. And why " might not thele Lkftrygons, or a Colony of them, leave Sicily to fettle in Italy, as it is evi- " dent the Ph&acians had done, and fix'd in Corcyra ? Bocbart\ Opinion concerning this " Nation is not to be negleftcd : The 'W ox As Lkftrygons ind Leontines are of the fame Im- " port: Liflrygon is a Fhceniclan Name, Luis tircam, that is, a devouring Lion: This is •' render'd literally by the Latin Word Leor.tinum, and both denote the Savage and Leonine " Difpofition of this People. The Word Lamiis is alio of Vhoenician Extraft: Laham, or " Lahama, iignifies a Devcurer; " [and Lahim in Arabick, which is a Branch of the P/xr- nician, or rather the Nov/ Phoenician itfclf, is render'd by Golius exprcflly Leo, and (d exadliy anfwers in Significition both to Lufirigon and Leontinum, Vid. Col. Lex. />. 21 14. Col. I .] " From hence probably was deriv'd that Lamia, who devour'd young Infants, " mention 'd by Horace in his Art of Poetry. ;' Nee pranfi Lamix vivum pmrtirrf extrahat ttho. Mr, Pope, ubifHpra. 140 M O L A^ I will not trouble the Reader with any more Greek ; but per* haps the Account Mr. Tope has given us {(rom Homer) of this People, and his Defcription of this Port or Bay may not be difagreeable. Six Days and Nights a doubtful Courfe we (leer. The next, proud Latnos' ftately Tow'rs appear. And Lafirigonid% Gates arife dillind in Air. Within a long Recefs a Bay there lies, Edg'd round with Cliffs, high pointing to the Skiesj The jutting Shores that fwcll on cither fide Contraft its Mouth, and break the rufhing Tide. ■" Our eager Sailors feize the fair Retreat, And bound within the Port their crowded Fleet j For here retir'd the finking Billows fleep, — ^ And fmiHng Calmnefs filver'd o'er the Deep. I only in the Bay refus'd to moor, And fix'd, without, my Hauliers to the Shore. From thence we climb'd a Point, whofe airy Brow Commands the Profped of the Plains below : No Tracks of Beafts, or Signs of Men we found. But fmoaky Volumes rolling from the Ground. Two with our Herald thither we command. With Speed to learn what Men poflefs'd the Land. They went, and kept the Wheel's fmooth-beaten Road Which to the City drew the Mountain -Wood. When lo! they met, befide a cryftal Spring, The Daughter of Ant if hates the King ; She to Artacia's fdver Streams came down, ( Artacia's Streams alone fupply the Town ; ) The Damfcl they approach, and ask'd what Race The People were ? who Monarch of the Place ? With Joy the Maid th' unwary Strangers heard. And fhew'd them where the royal Dome appear'd. They went ; but as they ent'ring faw the Qiicen Of Size enormous, and terrific Mien -, (Not yielding to fome bulky Mountain's Height) A fudden Hon'or ftruck their aking Sight. Swift M o L a: 141 Swift at her Call her Husband fcour'd away To wreak his Hunger on the deftin'd Preyj One for his Food the ragmg Glutton flew. But two rufh'd out, and to the Navy flew- Balk'd of his Prey, the yelling Monfter flies. And fills the City with his hideous Cries i A ghaftly Band of Giants hear the Roar, And pouring down the Mountains, crowd the Shore. Fragments they rend from off the craggy Brow, And dafli the Ruins on the Ships below : The crackling Veflels burft ; hoarfe Groans arife. And mingled Horrors echo to the Skies. The Men, like Fifli, they ftuck upon the Flood, And cram'd their filthy Throats. with. human Food.. It appears by Cluverius that this Port, between. Formia and Cajeta, was the Port certainly undcrftood for that into which Ho- mer brings Ulyjfes and his Companions ; and takes notice of the exaft as well as elegant Dcfcription he gives us of the Bay, and of the high Promontory above it. And as a further Confirmation tliat this was the Port defcrib'd by Homer, he mentions the old Authors as all along underftanding it as fuch ; and inftanccs par- ticularly in Ovidy who feigns ^_y£neas to have found * Neri- * soClw^e- t'ttis Macareus, one of Ulyjfes's Companions, in the Cajetan 0"^"'*'^'^*^ Shore. The PalTage of Cluverius is as follows. Ex hifce Verbis \^fc. Homer i ] fat is diferte patet, von t ad ipfum Lxftrygonum oppidum Formias adpulfmn finxiffe Ulyflis Homerum, fed in Cajctanum Portum, quern graphice atque eleganter defcribit ; una cum o-kottiTi TrafraPyoea-c-'i, i. e. cum fpecula cxcQh^ Jive promontorio quod illi imminet, inquohodie validijfimum caftellum. Atque ne dubites in banc fententiam intellexijfe jam inde veteres au£iores Homeri verba, bine fc. eft quod Ovidius etiam ^neam f Tho' Vlyffti himfelf, and perhaps the greateft Number of his Men, did not come to the City, yet according to Homer, fome of them came both into the City and to the Palace too, wlierc they were fo terrified with the Sight of -the pionftious Queen, o^f • 141 G A JE T a: ^£neam off'endijj'e fcngit in Cajetano litore Socium Ulyffis Ne- ritium Macareum. Talia cowoexnm per iter memorante Sibylla '■■ Sedibus Euboicam Stygiis emerjit in Urbem Troius i^ncas, facrifqiie ex more litatiSt Litora adit nondnm nutricis habentia notnen, Heic quoque fnbfliterat, poji tadia longa laborufn, Neritius Macareus, comes experientis Ulyfiei. Metam. L. xiv. The Sibyl-, mounthig now from nether Skies, And the fam'd Ilian Prince, at Cuma rife. He fairdj and near the Place to Anchor came. Since call'd Cajeta from his Nurfe's Name. Here did the lucklef^ Macareus, a Friend To wife Ulyjfes, his long Labours end. Carth. That Cicero likewife (who well knew the Place, as having himfelf a Villa there,) underftood Homer as fpeaking of Formi£y will appear exprcflly from an Epiftle of his to Atticus, L. xi. *'[:hevtry Ep. XIII. Si 'VCTo in banc *Tn?y;-7rvXov veneris * Acctq-pvyovtluu '^"'^^ "f ^'^°' {fonnns dico) qui fremitus hominum! quam irati animi ! " If ^^^- ', which forms one fide of the Gulph, and the Buildings arc continued to the Land-ward a confiderablc way along the Borders, with fruitful and pleafant Vineyards on the rifing Ground behind them. Here it is that />7r^/7 buries Cajeta, ^_yEneas's Nurfe, and attributes to the Place the Honour of receiving its Name from her. Ttt quoqiie httoribiis nojiris, -i^ncia Nutrix, ^_yEternam moriens famam, Cajeta, dedijii, Et nunc fervnt honos fedem tuus, ojfaque nomen Hefpcria in magna {fi qua eji ea Gloria ) Jignant. ./En. 7, And thou, O Matron of immortal Fame ! Here dying, to the Shore has left thy Name ; Cajeta ftill the Place is call'd from Thee, The Nurfe of great c^yEneas' Infancy. Here reft thy Bones in rich Hefperias Plains, Thy Name ('tis all a Ghoft can have) remain?. Tiryden, The moft remarkable thing we faw there, was a great Fif- fure* in a high Rock of Marble, which they fay happen'd at * ^^^^^^^j^'* the Death of our Saviour. Whether it were fo or no, the -which fignifies Rock is torn afunder in a very extraordinary manner. The * ''?'"S ''"''' feparated parts feem to the Eye to be much of the fame Di-Z-^Jlr. " ftance at the Top as they are at the Bottom, which may be a- bout four Foot, or fomewhat more ; and the Height about that of an ordinary Steeple. The Indentures (if I may fo call them) of the feparated parts, tho' very irregular, feem to have an exad CorrefponddVice with each other 5 and have a Rough- nefs of fuch a fort, as to exclude all Sufpicion of Art. We can hardly fay the lame of what they call the Imprellion of a Man's Hand in the Rock : the Story they relate of it is. That one, who was told that the Rock was thus miraculoufly fepa- rated at our Saviour's Death, declared nis giving no Credit to it ; and at the fame time, with an Air of Contempt, ftruck the Palm of his Hand againft the Rock : the Stone immediately fofiened, and received the Imprellion they now Ihcw : which I has 144 ^ ^ -^ ^ "^ ^^ his fome Rcfcin'olance of a Hand, but a very rude one. We went along this Cleft, in a continual Dcfcent, for about 40 or so Yards ; at the end whereof is a pretty little Oratory or Cha- pel, frequently vifited by Pilgrims : this is juft by the Sea-fide. From the Spaccata, they led us a long and tirefome walk up to the Catlle, to fee a Sight which prev'd very little worth the Pains that brought us thither. Twas the Skeleton of Charles of Bourbon, Conftable oi France, who ferv'd under the Emperor Charles V. at the Siege of Rome, and was fhot as he was fcaling * AV U'li a- the Walls. He is fct upright * in a Cafe, as we fee Skele- long, asjome j-^j^g j^ Sutgcous Houfcs j Only drcfs'd up in a tawdry Suit ; tivefm . ^.^j^ ^^^ ^^^^ Sword. He had been new cloth'd with Plulh juft before we faw him. In the Dome they fhew'd an antique Vafe of white Marble i w ith very fine Bajfo Relievoes, reprefcnting the Birth of Bacchus ; >\friejiejfes,^c Merciirf dclivers the New-born Infant to a Nymph, Bacchantes^ umzlccius ai"i<^ Satyrs attending. There is an Infcription of the Name of tsaipion //..^he Workman, XAAUiaN A0HNAIO2 EnOIHXEt. Athenian It is HOW ufcd as a Font. In the fame Church they fhew'd us maiii [/>]• a Pillar, which they fay came from Solomon's Temple ; but, unluckily, in one part of the Bajfo Relie'vo that is on it, there happens to be fomewhat that looks very much like a Repre- fentation of Tiirgatory. On the Summit of a high round Hill ftands the Sepulchral , Monument of Munatius Tlancus j of a round Figure, as fe- veral other ancient i\/<27//i>/^^** are. There are feveral Prints of it extant. In our Return from Cajeta there were fome Fryars going thither ; and had left Orders at Mola, for the People at the Inn to get 'em fomewhat to eat againft their Return j ■ tin Spirito Santo coji: " a Holy Ghoft, or fo ;" when they wou'd not name a Pidgeon, it being Lent-iwwz. At Mola, we drank Wine of the Cactiban Hills, once lb famous j 'twas good Wine, but might at Icaft be equall'd in other Parts of Italy : notfwect, as moft of the Italian Wines are; 'twas red. The ** As the MaiifoUutn Auguftl in Rome \ the Mold Adrlnnn, now Caftle of S. Angela ,«he Monument ot MitelU CraJ/i near Rvme, ficc. GariOl'iA'no, 145 The Cacubus Ager [according to the ancient Geographers^ was between Formia and Fundi. Martial teftifics much the fame : Cacuba Fundanis generofa coqtiuntur * Amyclis, Vitis & in media nata Talude viret. L. 13. Ep. 115. Rich Cacubans from mellowing Fundi flow. And blooming Vines amidft the Marfhes grow. PROM Mola, we went along the Sea-fide on the Appian Way, to the River Garigliano, which we pafs'd in a Ferry: part of our Road was thro' Olive Groves. About eight Miles from Mola, a little fhort of this River, we faw the Ruins of the ancient Minturna. There ftill re- mains part of an old Amphitheatre and Aquedud. Gari- gliano was anciently call'd Liris : 'tis mention'd by Horace as a ^i*«very ftill and quiet Stream: •Rura qua Liris quiet a Mordet aqua, taciturnus Amnis. L. 1. Od. 3 r. thofe rich Fields where Liris runs With quiet Streams, and wanton play 3 The linootheft of the Ocean's Sons, And gently cats his eafy way. Creech. It was not fo very quiet a Water when we pafs'd it; having been made more rapid by the Rains. It was near this River, that the firft Battle was fought between the Romans and the Tarentines 5 when 'Fyrrhus the Grecian King came to the Af- fiftance of the later, with an Army of Elephants as well as Men. A little further was the ancient .y/wwi?^, where //tfr^c^ rcjoic'd fo much at the meeting of his Friends. , - • Plotius & Varius Sinueflx Virgiliufque ' t Occurrunt : antma, quales neque candidiores Terra tuUt, neque que is me Jit devin6tior alter. O, qui complexus I &c. Sat. 5. L. i. * Sorr.e Ediiijns read AhenU [Ic. Vmianh'] taking no notice oi Am-jclA, which was -net ur fronr. fimxH, U At izpS Capua. -At Shmeffa on our way Tlotius, Virgily Varius too attends, All worthy Men, and my obliging Friends. Oh, how did we embrace ! Creech. ' ' This Neighbourhood abounded with white Snakes in Ovid^ time: ^——^Niveifquefreqtiens Sinuefla colubr'ts. The parts of the Country on this fide Rome are more fre- quently mention'd by ancient Writers than any other % moft of their Summer Retirements lying this way. AFTER we had pafs'd the Garigliano, we travell'd over a plcafant Plain to S. Agatha j and there we again found the Ap' fian Way -, but it left the prefent Road a little after we had pafs'd S. Agatha^ and fo we loft it for a time i tho' we had it again fometimes between that and Capua, particularly in a Vil- lage called Cafcaro. C A T U A. NE W Capua, through which the Road from Rome to Naples lies, is a fmall Place ; the Emperor was making a new Fortification there when we pafs'd it. They had at that time 400 Soldiers there, they have fometimes had 1500. There is but one Inn in the Town, and that a very forry one. OLD Capua, about two Miles diftant from the New, has feve- ral ancient Ruins ; among which the chief is the Amphitheatre i which feems by its Arena"^^ that ftill fhews the origmal Di- menfions within, to have been larger than that of Verona : By the three Columns of the outermoft Row, which ftill remain intirc, with the Arches between them, one might alfo trace the Line of the Outfidc, fo as to determine theDimenfionsof that too. Thcfc Columns are of the 'Doric Order. There is a Head [or Face] in the Crown of each Arch, but the Sculpture is * The ova! Space or Court within the Amphitheatre, which the Seats for the Spefla- tors immediately encompals'd. The Ground of this Court was cover'd with Sand, to foak up the Blood of the Gladiators, of the Lions, and other wild Beafts, that were ex- pofed there to Combat. Vid. Kennel's and Godvyn'i Rom. Antiquities. Capua. 14.7 is not of a very good Tafte. Part of the Entablature above the Arch does ftill remain. The Outfide of this Amphitheatre is of Stone, but the For- nices [tlie Vaults] within, are of Brick. We gotupoa fome of the higheft Parts, and from thence had a moft agreeable Pro- i'oc€t of tliat Side of the Campania Felix, the moft fertile and delicious Spot in all Italy •■> but this Fertility induc'd fo much Lazinefs and Luxury, as in fine prov'd the Ruin of the Inha- bitants. Inftances of each are delivcr'd in fuch ftrong Terms by fome of the ancient Writers, that the Recital of a few of them perhaps may not be unacceptable. Lucius Flonis gives a moft agreeable Account of the whole Campania, and clofes all with that of Capua. Omnium non modo Italia, fed toto Orbe pulcherrima Cam'- panta plaga eft. Nihil mollius ccelo : denique bis floribus ver- nat : rlihil uberius folo : ideo Liber i Cererifque Cert amen did- tur : Nihil ho/pit alius Mari : Hie illi nobiles Tortus, Cajetay Mifenus, & tepentes Fontibus Baia : Lucrinus ^ Avernus quadam Maris oftia. Hie ami6ii vitibus Montes, Gaurus, Falernus, Majjlcus^ & puleherrimus omnium Vefuvius, ty^tnai ignis imitator. Urbes admareFormia, Cuma, Tuteoliy Nea- polis, Herculaneum Tompeii, (tr ipfa Caput Urbium Capua, quondam inter tres Maximas, Romam Carthaginemq; mime- rata. Lib. i. C. i6. " Cdmpania is the moft beautiful Region, not only oi Italy, " but even of the whole World. Nothing more mild and " gentle than its Air ; it blooms with Flowers twice a year : *' Nothing more fertile than its Soil ; where Ceres and Bacchus " contend for Vidory : Nothing more hofpitable than its Shores ; " here are thofe noble Harbours, Cajeta, Mifenus, and BaJ£ " fteaming with its hot Baths ; and thofe Inlets of the Sea, " Lucrinus and Avernus. Here are Mountains clothed with " Vines, Gaurus, Falernus, Majficus, and the moft pleafant " of all, Vefuvius, imitating tyEtnds Fire. Here are Mari- *' time Cities, Formia, Cuma, Tuteoli, Naples, Herculaneum " Tompeii, and Capua, the Head of all, formerly rank'd with " Rome and Carthage, in reckoning up the three greateft Cities." It is call'd by Livy, Urbs maxima opulent ijfimaque Italia, ■'' the greateft and moft wealthy City of Italy -, " — fed magnas U 2 lilas 148 Capua. illas Opes flat'im fequnta eft Luxuria at que Snperbia ; — " but " Pride and Luxury immediately foUow'd thefe great Riches." And then we tind that this Luxury made them a Prey to their Enemies the Carthaginians : Campanos hand dubie magis nimio Luxu fluentibus rebus, moUitiaque fna, quam Virtnte Hoftium 'vi£fos ejje. Liv. L. 7. " The Campanians were doubtlefs o\'er- " come more by the cxcefTive and uninterrupted Flow of their " Profpcrity, and their own Softnefs, than by the Valour of " tlicir Enemies." Indeed in this Place, lb furniflVd with a Pro- fufion of every thing that lerves for Pkafure and Delight, Luxury fccms to have fix'd its Seat of Empire, to be here irrefiftible, and to fubdue all that come within its bounds : for, as it ruin'd the Capuans, fo, in a very fliort time, it wrought their Revenge upon their Conqueror Hannibal, and vanquilTi'd him too ; in weaken- ing him fo, that after he had deftroy'd the Capuans, he became himfelf a Prey to the Romans -, as appears by Valerius Maxi- 7mis, L. 9. C.I. At Campana Luxuries per quam utilis Civitati noftra fuit 5 inviEium enim Armis Hannibalem illecebris fuis 'vincendum Romano Militi tribuit. Ilia vigilantijjimum T>ucem, ilia Exercitum acerrimum, "Dapibus largis, abundanti Vino^ Ufiguentorum fragrant ia, Ventris nfu lafciviore, ad fomnum df delicias enjocavit : Ac turn demum fraBa & contufa Punica feritas eft, quum Seplafia ei & Albana Caftraejfe cceperunt. — " But the Luxury of Campania was of fuigular Service to our " City J it's Enchantments contributed more to the fubduing of " //rt»;z/^^/ than our Arms ; and deliver'd up that General, who " was before unconquerable, as an eafy Prey to the Roman " Soldiery. Twas this, that with the Fulncfs of Feafting, the " Excels of Wine, the Fragrancy of Ointments, and the too " free Ufe of Women, call'd off that moft vigilant Commander, " that vigorous and pufhing Army, to Sloth and Voluptuouf- " ncfs. And then it was that the 'Punick Ficrccnefs was " blunted and broken, when the Seplafian and Alban Streets " became their Camps." ■ — ' Thefe were two famous Streets in Capua, where the Unguentarii [Sellers of Ointments,) and other Alllfters of Pleafurcs had their Rcfidcnce. Tullji in his Orations ad 'Populum contra Rtdlum, fpeaks pretty much to the lame Purpolc. But what has been offer'd, is perhaps more than enough. Wc had now about a dozen Miles through Averfa, a little City, to Naples. KA- Naples. 149 N A T L E S. TH E Road is fhamefully bad that leads to this great and fine City : But it is remote from its Sovereign, always govern'd by Viceroys, who perhaps have not thought the care of the Roads to be of fo much Confcquencc, as to deferye their Notice. The moft plcafant Situation of Naples, with its large and delightful Bay, have been fo fully defcribed by Authors extant among us, that it wou'd be luperfluous for me to attempt it. The temperate Winters they have, make it the mofl: agreeable Place in the World to pafs that Seafon in; and as the Italians in general are not fond of coming near a Fire, fo here they have put it out of their Power to do it ; for there is not fo much as a Fire-place in many Houlcs, except only in the Kitchen : If a Day colder than ordinary happen,, a Caldano *, with a little l,fgjfjfiji,g Charcoal in it, is all they have to air the Room. theciftemsat They have green Pcafe all Winta:, and none in the Sum- sUe-Taties mcr, as we were told i occafion'd by the too great Heat in that j-he caidano' Seafon 5 tho' it be very much alleviated by riie pleafant Sea- «'■« fometime Breezes. We faw the little Children, Boys and Girls, ^^^y-iomlfimei of ing before the Houfes, quite naked, in the Month of March, silver. The City of Naples, taking it in general, I think may be call'd the fineft in Italy. If in Rome, and perhaps fomc other Cities, there are finer, and more magnificent Palaces, ci- ther the Narrownefs of the Streets, or the comparative Mcan- nefs of the private Houfes, takes off from the general Beauty of thofc Places : But in Naples the Beauty of the Buildings is in a great meafure equal and uniform : the Streets arc large, ftrait, and excellently well pav'd with flat Stones about i8 In- ches fquarc ; and to prevent Horfes flipping on them, they are pick'd or tool'd fo as to give them a Roughnefs The Tops of the Houfes are flat, fo as that you may walk on them, and there receive the Benefit of the Evening Breezes ; they are co- vered with a hard Plafter. The Strada di Toledo is the prin- cipal Street, and is the noblcft I ever law, and of a great Length as well as Breadth. The Plenty of Proviiions,. and Frequency of People, make it as chearful, as the Magnificence of the Buildings makes ic noble. When you come to the end of it, aTurn- inii s mat 150 Naples. iug on the Left 'haiid brings you to the Viceroy's Palace, wlticlt {lands, in refpcd of tlie Street laft mention'd, as the Banquet- ing-Houle docs in refpeft of the Strand at London ; and the Sea lies on the Left-hand, partly as the Thames does here. This Palace is the Architefture of the Cavalier Font ana, three Stones in Height, and of a great Length. By it (lands a Coloffn! Statue of Jupiter, antique, but with modern Repa- rations ; it was brought from an ancient Temple near Ctimte^ which bears the Name of the Ternpio del Gigante [the Temple of the Giant], from this gigantick. Statue. The publick Granaries are very large ; and fo they had need, if what I was told be true, That the Magiftrates, Intendants of the Grain, are oblig'd to furnifh to the Markets 60 thoufand Bufhels of Corn every Week. This is the way in mod of the Cities of Italy j the Corn is all brought into the publick Granaries, and is thence iffued out to the Markets ; and of this his HoUnefs makes a pretty good hand at Rome^ between the Advance of the Price above what it is taken in at, and the Small- nefs of the Mcafure. Not far from the publick Granaries is the Univerfity, which they call the Sttidii Nuovt, a large and handfome Strudure ; ^but it remains, as it has done for a long time, unfinifh'd. Tlie Churches and Convents of Naples are exceflively rich, and indeed very fine. The Profufion of Marble we fee in them is fcarcely to be imagin'd 5 but the Difpofition of it in the In- cruftations is not fo well judg'd, as it is in the Churches of Rome : Their putting fuch Variety of gay Colours together, and in fo many Figures, made the Finery appear to me as border- ing a little upon the tawdry. The 'Dome is exceedingly rich in all forts of Ornaments of Sculpture, Painting, and Gilding, as well as Marble. Among the Statues there is one in Copper of S.Gennaro [or JantiariHs~\, the principal Patron or Proteftor of their City: whole Body is buried in a beautiful Chapel un- der the Choir : The Floor of this Chapel is finely inlaid, the -.Roof and all is of Marble, Baffo Relievos, &c. with Statues of Saints in the Wall in Niches. Near the great Altar above, are two fine Pillars of ]afpcr, their Pcdcftals of Verd antique, [a curious green Marble]. Behind the great Altar is a Statue of fine Marble, of Cardinal Carajfa, once ArchbKhop, kneel- ing 5 Naples. 1 51 iiicr » 'twas he that built the Chapel under the Choir. But the fineft part of all this noble Church is the Chapel dedicated to S. Gennaro, where are kept, with the higheft Veneration, the Head and Blood of that Saint, with which they fhew, two days in the year, their famous Miracle of liquifying the congealed Blood at the Approach of the Head, This Chapel, (which they call // Teforo, the Treafure, from the precious Relicks that are in it) has a Marble Fagade towards the Church, of a good Tafte of Architefturc ; in the middle is a moft curious Brafs Gate of pierc'd Work, which they fay coft 3 <5 thoufand Crowns. The Marble Pavement and Incruftations of this Chapel are moft rich, the Pillars, &c. of the Corinthian OxAqv. There are 19 Copper Statues in Niches, of fo many former Patrons of their City, which they fay coft 4 thoufand Crowns apiece. But what gave me the greateft Pleafure was the Cupola, painted moft admirably by the Cavalier LanfranCy and the Cor- ners under it by T>ommi china. The Church of S. Taolo Maggiore ftands where was once a ♦ They mean Temple of Cajlor and Tolltix ; part of which ftill remains, and ZZZl'lh"' ferves as a Tortico to the prefent Church. The Pillars are very "Trenching of noble and magnificent, of the Corinthian Order, fluted: ^c- ,''^"^^^'^'^^^ fides thofe which are now ftanding, there are huge Pieces of ..f^fic/Caftor other broken ones on the Ground. At the Entrance into the _''""'' p°""-- prefent Church are two Diftichs, one on each fide the Door *. .. ''iJ^„ l'a„4 " alt ho' this Audit vel furdus Pollux cum Caftore Petrum "•'SS'^ Nee mora : fracipiti marmore nterqtie riiit. «• Peterv, yet Tyndarides vox mijfa ferit. Talma integra Petri eft "ViuXtofLn- Tiividit at Tecum, Paule, Trophaa libens t. "in it. ^ t ;» flioH'd feem a little The Cieling of this Church is finely painted by the Cavalier o^ and in the Niches in the Wall beyond, the Children or Branches of it. I have here prefented two Views within the Catacombs., which I defigned my feif upon the Spot. The Smell is fo much gone, only a parcel of dry Bones now remaining, (tho' of thefe indeed a vaft Number) that there is little more to be perceived, than what we meet with in other fubterraneous Places. In the Mofaics that v.'c faw, the Figures were generally fo deftroyed, we could make nothing of thenij but we made fhift to read the remaining • part of one Infeription (the other part of it is defac'd) which plainly denoted a particular Property in that Chapel. The In» fcription is upon the Arch of a Circle ; the Compafs which the whole took up, feem'd near the Quantity of a Semicircle 5 a fmall part only now remains legible : We read MARI- TUM IPSA SIBI lA ; but part of the firft M was want- ing. Thofe who are better vers'd in thefe Matters, may pofllbly make out the [lA] to Satisfaction. I fhall only offer wv] see the Guefswhat that was, and the reft might bci taking any Names ^''"«.?/''^ that will fit the Space: as, Calphtirnia Sempronii (for example) '""'^'^''' propter dile£iijjimum marittim ipfajibi jaci vohiit Sepnlchrttm. Ifjacere be not the moft ufual word upon fuch Occafions, the whole work is Gothkk, and 'tis only allowing the Infcription to be fo too. There are frequent Paintings in feveral Parts of the Cata- cornbs, but done in a very bad Age, in a fort ofGnazzo [Water- Colour] upon Plaifter. Some rcprefent Saints, others the Perfons buried there, as appears plainly by one Infcription, HIC -REQUIESCIT PROCULUS. Wc obfcrv'd in one of the ,Y ■ By. i6i Naples. * The Greek By-parts two Pigui-cs: over one was written PAULUS, over the t^/I'TL" other LAUR both in a Pofture of Blefling, one doing it in Thumb and the Greek Manner, the other in the Latin*. He on whom f^fcfiiftL LAUR was inrcrib'd, had a Garland in one Hand. In one reft Hf.' The Place was the Figurc of a Bifhop, and S. lOAN. written on the ^MnMnnmr g- j^ ^^ -j. . j.|^^ Lctters Written under one another with a Line Thicmb, the ftruck t horizontally thro' the S, much after the Manner ex- third ami prefs'd bclow. [I ] In another was | ANU ARIUS, writ ^lepnfJd!i'nd the fame Way ; and the Letters S C S over it, which have thefirfmnd odd Marks above and below them, and a Crofs over all, as in muidU linger ^j^^ ^^^^^^^^ Scheme below [2] : The S C S moft probably ftands ThisManrer^^^ SANCTVS. Not that their Great S. JANUARIUS ofmitinsu is pretended to have been buried here; but the Dormitory could ■very frequent j^qj. [-j^yg hccw fafc wlthout fomc Memorial in it of their 'Pro- mo< oa- ^^^^^^^ [Protedor.] In another Place were reprefented the four Evangelifts, in the fame elegant Tafte of Painting. * Ti In many Places we met with the old Cypher for Xg/tros*) and fometimes with the Addition of A and Cl defcrib'd thust. I fhall mention only one more; f TJ it is a Crofs painted on a Wall with fuch Letters )"^T|TI about it as are here below exprefs'd. [3] ics, done in the Gothic Times at Rome, and etfetfhere. .11 j::. Villi [I] s [2] + 1 I S c A s N T %m^ Naples. i6^ And this is the true Writing of all thofc Letters? of which I took particular Notice ; becaufc that for the C [the old S ] in XC a Great Man happening to read O, explains That to have ^i" Burner. been once a 0, and the little Line in the Bolbm of it to have been worn out : and upon that Suppofition takes the whole In- fcription to have imported 'I«o-b j X^Tof ©EO'X Ni5ta, " Icfus " Chrilt GOD ovcrcometh." It is eaficfl: to fuppofe it always to have been as it appears now, without any thing intended for ©ih i and then both the Contraftions will be alike in thofe two firft Words ; the Line at top feeming as it were to tack together the initial and final Letters of the Words intended in each. The Mofaic in thefe Catacombs, which has been fo much deftroyed, muft have been very much older than the Paintings, or have been done in an Age when the Art of making the Ce- ment for it was not well underftood. This vaft fubterranccus Work fcems likely to have been carried on in feveral fuccefllvc Ages, proceeding ftill further into the Rock, as the Number of the Dead increas'd. It is indeed a very extraordinary Scene of Mortality, and has fomewhat very folemn in its Appearance i and one cannot but be greatly afFedled at the Sight of fuch a gloomy Region of fo vaft an Extent, a perfcft City under Ground, with its Streets, and Windings and Turnings, every way, on all hands, inhabited wholly by Carcaflcs. My Reader will be glad by this time to get out of thefe folitary Manfions ; and where can we go for frefher Air than among the bonny Hermits of Camaldoli, whofe Region is as exalted, as that we have left was low ? The Situation of this Hermitage, and the Way to it, is the moft romantick that can be ; 'tis abc.it four Miles from Naples, on a very high Hill, a perfect Labyrinth of a Road leads to it, all among Woods of Chefnuts. When we had gain'd the Top of the Hill, the firft thing we faw, a little fhort of the Convent, was an Infcription which forbids any Woman to pafs further than that Place, under pain of Excommunication. But, G)tiare, Whether there were another llich at their Back-door? The true Name of their Order is Eremita San^a Maria Scala Cceli, or, de Scald Coeli : But they are commonly called Hermits of Ca- maldoliy from a Place of that Name in Tufcany, where the chief Convent of the Order, and the firft th-at was of it, now is. This Y z .- Order 1(54 Naples. Oidcr WAS founded by Romoaldo. There are Convents "of them in other Places, one at Vienna, two in Hungary., fix in Tolandy and twenty in Italy. The Friars or Hermits are all Gentlemen, and in a frank Gentleman-like manner they receiv'd us : They take it in their turns to be Porters, and immediately after the firft Salutation, when Strangers come thither, is over, they go quick away and fetch the Prior, for they arc not to fpeak afterwards at, all except in his prefence. The Prior dcfir'd, that, if our time would allow it, we would flay and take fuch a Dinner as rhey could provide us ; if not, that we would accept of fuch a Re- frefhment as would be no hindrance to us : We chofe the later i io they treated us with Anchovies, and excellent Pickles of fe- veral forts : Among the reft was the Caper Fruit , in iliape and Size not much unlike our little pickled Cucumbers, but fharp- er pointed at one end, delicately crifp and fine. They brought us Wine with a liberal Hand, in a great Pitcher, and earthen Porringers to drink it out of, which they till'd up to the Brim ; and when they faw us a little ftartled at fo unufual a Sight, ei- pecially at that time of day, they bid us Fear it not^ for their Wine had that (ingular Troperty, that it livould ?iever offend either the Head or Stomach. So fingular a Chara£ter was not too far to be relied on -, but indeed the Wine was excellent, and of their own Growth ; Vino di Chiaia, was what they called it. They have each a fcparate Cell, with a little Garden, as the Carthujians. Their Cells arc rang'd in rows, pointing upon the Church, on each fide of it, and not forming a Qiiadranglc asthofeof the Carthujians do. Their Church is not large, but very pretty i and as you ftand in it, the Profpecl of their Cells through each of the oppofite Doors is very plcafant. But the noblcif of Profpeds is from a Station at the further Corner of a common Garden, which they have, befides their little par- ticular ones. Here you fee the City of Naples on one hand, with the high Convent of the Carthiifians, and the higiicr Ga- llic of S. Elmo all lying under you. On the other hand, Toz,- ziioli ; the whole Sea-coall round, to Bai£ -, the Promontory of Miftmm, and the adjacent Idands : a delightful Variety of Sea and Land, Hills and Valleys, antique Ruins, fruitful Vmeyards, and pleafant Pafturcs, all at one uninterrupted View. No wonder if in fuch a Situation as this, thcfe Fathers breathe frcfh I Air J V £ s u V I u sJ I (55 Air; which added to their abllcmious Diet, and daily Excrcifc, makes them live to a great Ap;e, 80, 90, fome 100 Years. Bread and Water is their only Suftcnance three Days in the Week ; and at other times they never eat Flefh-meat, except (I think) in cale of Sickncfsj [the Carthnjians not even then.] The feveral Portions of their Time are appropriated to feveral pur- poles : Seven times a-day, i. e. the natural Day, they are in Church, for mod ofthefeftrid Orders rifcat Mid- night to repair to their Devotions. They dig one hour in the Garden, at the Toll of a Bell. They do all their Offices of Life themfelves 3 wafh their Clothes, which arc a fort of white Flannel -, dreP> their Meat, and make their own Bread. When they are met upon thefe, or fuch like Occafions, they have one to read to- them, to entertain their Thoughts, and furnilh matter of Medi- tation, becaufc they are not to fpcak to one another. There is a Convention once every two Years at CamaldoU of the Priors of the feveral Convents of this Order, where Exchanges arc made of them from one Convent to another, and other Matters fet- tled among them. They have a Soldier, belonging to the Gar- rifon of Caflello Nitovo in Naples^ to take care of their Woods and Vineyards, and to fee that no Trelpafs be done in them. VESUVIUS.' WE took the Opportunity, when wc were at Naples, of going to fee Mount Vefuvkis, which lies South-Eait from thence, at the diftancc only of four Miles, if we reckon but to the beginning of the Afcent, and four more they call it up to the Top. Juft at the beginning of the Afcent (lands a Monument, with an Infcription which is here inferred, giving an Account of the terrible Manner of its Eruptions ; it fcems to have been crefted by one who had been heartily frightcn'd, and had perhaps narrowly efcaped one of them ; moft probably the fame which happen'd the Year this Infcription bears date, 1O31 ; and a very terrible one that was. There have been feveral others fmce, as well as before, of which there arc large Accounts publifh'd, POST&. 1(5(5 Vesuvius. TOSTERI POSTERI VESTRA RES AGITVR DIES FACEM PR^FERT DIEI NVDIVS PERENDINO ADVORTITE NICIES AB SATV SOUS NI FABVLATVR HISTORIA ARSIT VESi£VVS IMMANI SEMPER CLADE HyESITANTIVM NE POSTHAC INCERTOS OCCVPET MONEO VTERVM GERIT MONS HIC BITVMINE ALVMINE FERRO SVLPHVRE AVRO ARGENTO NITRO AQVARVM FONTIBVS GRAVEM SERIUS OCYVS IGNESCET PELAGOQ\'E INFLVENTE PARIET SED ANTE PARTVRIT CONCVTITVR CONCVTITQV'E SOLVM FVMIGAT CORVSCAT FLAMMIGERAT QVATIT AEREM HORRENDVM IMMVGIT BOAT TONAT ARCET FINIBVS ACCOLAS EMICA DVM LICET lAM lAM ENITITUR ERUMPIT MIXTVM IGNE LACVM EVOMIT PRiECIPITI RVIT ILLE LAPSV SERAMQVE FVGAM PR^VERTIT SI CORRIPIT ACTVM EST PERIISTI ANN. SAL. CIDIOCXXXI. XVI KAL. IAN. PHILIPPO IV REGE EMANVELE FONSECA ET ZVNICA COMITE MONTIS REGII PRO REGE [MITATIS REPETITA SVPERIORVM TEMPORVM CALAMITATE SVBSIDIISQVE CALA- HVMANIVS QVO MVNIFICENTIVS FORMIDATVS SERVAVIT SPRETVS OPPRESSIT INCAVTOS ET AVIDOS QVJBVS LAR ET SVPPELLEX VITA POTIOR TVM TV SI SAPIS AVDI CLAMANTEM LAPIDEM SPERNE LAREM SPERNE SARCINVLAS MORA NVLLA FVGE ANTONIO SVARES MESSIA MARCHIONE VICI PR.EFECTO VIARVM. Pofterity, Vesuvius," x6^ Pollerity, Po/lerity, This is your own Concern. One Day furmflics Light to another ; This Day to the following. Attend ! Twenty times llnce the Sun was form'd, if Story fable not, Has Vefuiilus flam'd out, Ever to the dreadful deftrudtion of the tardy and irrelblute : Left hereafter it furprifc the Uninform'd, I give this warning. This Mountain has a Womb Pregnant with Bitumen, Alom, Iron, Sulphur, Gold, Silver, Nitre, and Springs of Waters : Sooner or later it will take fire, and, the Sea breaking in, will be deliver'd. But not without previous Throws. It is convuls'd, and gives Convulfions to the Ground about it: It fmothers, it flafhes, it darts out Flames; It fhocks the whole Atmofphere : It roars horrible, it bellows, it thunders, it drives the Neighbourhood out of their Hence, while thou may'ft. [country. Now, now it is in labour, it burfts out, it vomits forth a Lake of Fire : The Stream ruflies down precipitant, and leaves no time for flight. If it catch thee, there's an end of thee, thou'rt loft. In the Year of our Redemption cioiocxxxi the 17th of December^ Thllif IV being King, And Emitntiel Tonfeca and Zitnica Count of Monte Regio Viceroy, [This was fct up] Recounting the Calamity of former Times, and the proper Relief for the Calamity, With equal Humanity and Munificence. r-^^^^^ covetous When dreaded, it has been efcap'd; when flighted, it has overwhclm'd the unwary and Whofe Care of Houfe and Goods has exceeded that of Life. Thou therefore, if wife. Hearken to the Stone that calls out to thee : Mind not Houfe, mind not Goods, make hafte, be gone ! Antonio Snares MeJJia, Marquis of VUo, Praefedt of the Ways. The Infcription is on a fair large Marble ; and on tlie Top of the Mountain ftands tlic Fisure of tlie Mountain cut in Stone. It I dS Vesuvius! It is pretty hard to dccyphcr the whole Meaning of this In- fcription : The Englijl) Reader may fee my Guefs, which I have "been forced to help out with the Addition of fome \¥ords be- tween Crotchets in one part. If any one diflike it, it is no more than I do my felf j and 1 give him my free Confcnt to aker it as -ho pleafes. My. Al/J/hn h^s pnbHfli'd this Infcription, but not given all of it : And fome of the Words which he has given are not right s as lj)art/imj inftead of \_partnritP\ {_Emigra\ inftead of {Emica^ with other Miftakes, Icfs material. His Year is wrong ,- inhEditk^n^' ^<53- * inftead of 163 r, and therein not agreeing with his own marginal Date. Some of the fucceeding Lines which he has left out, he might ha\-e fome Reafon for omitting, as not finding them very intelligible : but I have inferred them, that the In- fcription may be feen intire ; and that fome body elfe may pof- iibly hit off" their true Meaning, which I am far from being confident that I have done. As foon as we had pafs'd this Monument, wc began to afcend, which we did on Horfcback for about two Miles. On the Skirts of the Mountain we found loofe Stones of fevcral forts, fome light, like Pumice, but did not feem of the fame Confiftcnce ; others heavy and hard, like the Drofs of the Iron and half vitri- fied Cinders that we fee come out of the Forges : With thefe piled up as Walls, they fence their Vineyards i which, notwith- ftanding the terrible Havock made by the Eruptions, they ftill venture to plant about the Skirts of the Mountain : The exceed- ing Fruitful nefs of the Place encouraging them to run fome Rifquesj for, befides the Warmth of the Climate, and the na- tural Fertility of the Soil, the digeftive fubterrancous Heats doubtlefs contribute largely to accelerate and perfect the Maturity of the Fruits. In our Afcent we pafs'd along the Sides of fe- veral Torrents of fuch Matter, as when the vaft and horrid Caul- dron boil'dover, came rufhing down in a fiery Stream along its Sides. Matter, tho' then liquid, yet now hard enough, lies at the Bottom: But it is impollible for anyone tothink the whole was ever io, who obfervcs the prodigious Roughncfs of the Surface : Perfect Rocks torn out of the Bowels of the Mountain, and hurried along by the burning Torfcnt, feem ftuck as it were in a Mafs of melted Metals, and vitrified Earth and Stones, and Vesuvius. 1^9 well cemented togctlicr in the lower parts, tho' rifing in very unequal Heights at top. Some part of thefc Currents put me in mind of the Thames after a great Froft, in thofe Places where vaft Flakes of Ice had been flung up by the Tide, and were then frozen into irregular and rugged Fleaps. A like Efted, but from how different a Caufe ! After we had rid about two Miles of Afcent, it then grew fo flecp that we were oblig'dto difmount j we ftript into our Waftcoats, Boots on, by reafon of the Sand and pulveriz'd Cinders j took a il:out Stake in each hand, and fo fet out. Wc kept our Way upon the Current where that was pradicable, for, tho' rough, 'twas firm Footing ; when thro' the excelTive Rough- nefs and Vaflncfs of the Stones, we could not fcramble over them, but were oblig'd to take other Paths, we were almoft up ro the Knees inAfhesand Sand, and fmall Cinders (which came in even at our Boot-tops,) and tlrefe giving way, brought us back, fo that we loft almoli as much Ground as we gain'd : 'Twas panting work to wade along fo flcep an Afcent, with fuch foot- ing. Our labouring in this Sand put us in mind oi Alexan- der % March over the Lybian Defcrt, as defcrib'd by ^. Cnrtius. LnBandum eft non foliitn cum ardore (^ fecit ate fed et tarn cum tenacifjimo fabulo, quod praaltum CT* veftigio cedens, agre rnoliuntur pedes. " You are to ftruggle not only with Heat and " Drought, but alfo with the incumbering Sand, which is fo deep, " and fo yielding at every Step, the Feet can hardly work their -' way through it." Where we could, we ftep'd from one Lump to another of the drofly Subftance that lay fcatter'd about. Some- times we were forc'd to quit our Stakes for a while and climbj by the Help of our Hands, up the craggy Pieces of Rock that oppos'd our Paflagc. When we had at laft gain'd the firff Af- cent, we found our felves on a fort of Plain ; for llich is now become That which was the Mouth of the former Eruptions, but has been fill'd up by the fucceeding Eruptions from the now higher Parts. Upon our landing (for fo I may call it in re- fped of the fluid Sand, (^c. we had been wading in) we turn'd back to take a Survey of the Way we had come ; and as wc look'd upon the rough Cui'rents we had pafs'd along, their Sur- faces, which fccm'd fovery irregular, when we were upon them, and like rude Heaps huri'd together at random, at that di- Z ftance lyo Vesuvius. fiance appear'd plainly to have form'd themfclves into a perfeft natural wavy Surface 5 which could only fhcw itfelf at liich a diftance as took off thofe Afperities, which diftradcd the Eye, and obftruftcd its appearing ib at a nearer View, where the Eye cou'd not take it in all together. Had one, when ftanding upon them, view'd them thro' a dirainifhing Glafs, he wou'd probably have feen the like Appearance. Turning again towards the Plain we had juft enter'd upon, we faw it full of Smoke and Vapour, which at firft we took to be all Smoke ; but what we apprehended wou'd have been our greateft Annoyance, prov'd fomewhat of a Refrefhment to us ; for it having rain'd that Morning, the Heat of the Mountain rais'd the Wet again in a Steam or Vapour, which was not dil- agreeable, and which allay'd the Strength of the Sulphureous Steams, and real Smoke that was intermix'd with the Va- pour ; for, the Plain we were now on, had abundance of Cracks or Chinks, thro which a grofs Smoke iflhed out : into fome of thefe we put Bits of Wood, and looking at them as we came back, found them half burnt. The Ground founded hollow * Sub pedi- under our* Feet, and the Heat of it was fuch, that we perceiv'd foium"^ri^ it to a confiderable Degree through our Boot-Soles, tho' we were in fo great a Heat our felves, after our fatiguing March ; and it muft be no Imall Heat that was then greater than our own. Now the Thunders and the Roarings we had heard in our Afcent hither were redoubled ; tho' we were not yet come within fight of the Mouth that gave them Vent ; for we had (till another Afcent to make, fteeper than the firft. This fccond Story (if I may fo call it) has been rais'd, and is con- tinually increafing from the frefh matter thrown out of the Bowels of the Mountain, fince the old Mouth has been fill'd up. Thus is the Bulk of the Mountain continually enlarg'd on the Outfide, and the Hollow of confequence widened within. When we had with much difficulty gain'd the Top of this fecond Mount, we found the whole Face of the Ground cover'd over with the drofly Subftancc above-mention'd, of va- rious Confiftences ; and with Sulphur of a thoufand Colours, from an almoft red, thro' the feveral Degradations, to the paleft yellow, and fome of them extremely beautiful. When we had travers'd fame time, to and fro, among the Sulphur, Cinders, Vesuvius. 171 Cinders, Drofs, and Stones, we came within figlit of the roaring Mouth ; and our Curiofity led us indeed full as near it as was confiftcnt with Difcretion, confidering the Temper 'twas then in. Immediately before an Eruption, we heard a tu- multuous Grumbling in the dreadful Cavern ; then came out a thick black Smoke, which was immediately kindled into Globes of Fire, and this ftrait fucceeded by a furious Flame, and Vol- lies of Stones, glowing hot, fhot up into the Air : Some fell down again into the Mouth, others, ftriking againft one ano- ther, divcrg'd i and one of the fmaller (about the bignefs of a Man's Head) we found glowing at our Feet : we had not heard it fall, thro' the vaftnefs of the other Noife ; for, befides the Bellowings and Thunders immediate upon the Explofion, the Rcfiftance of the Air to the Vollies of Stones, founded as tho' a thoufand Sky-Rockets had been let off at once. The Thunders, the thick Smoke, and the Mountain burning, put me in mind of the Defcription given by Mofes of the Delivery of the Law upon Mount Sinai *. What Virgil fays of* Exod. xix. Montit ^yEtna, does i^o cxzdily defcribe this, that nothing can l^' '"'•'^• be more clofe and lively. Inter diimque atram proriimpit ad at her a nubem. Turbine fumantem piceo, & candente fa-villa : Attollitque globos jlammarum, & Jidera lambit. Interdum fcopulos, awdfaque vifcera, Montis Erigit eru£fans -, liqtiefaBaque fax a fub auras Cum gemitu glomerat, fundoque exajluat imo. -^n. 3. By turns a pitchy Cloud fhe rolls on high. By turns hot Embers from her Entrails fly. And Flakes of mounting Flames, that lick the Sky. Oft from her Bowels mafly Rocks are thrown, And fhiver'd by the Force, come piece-meal down : Oft liquid Lakes of burning Sulphur flow. Fed from the fiery Springs that boil below. Dryden. When we had obferv'd this extraordinary Sight a while, we thought it beft for our Curiofity to give way to our Safety j for 1 think we might have been at leaft as fecure in a bcficg'd Citadel. 'Tliny had paid dear for his Curiofity at a much greater Z 2 diftance. I lyi Vesuvius. dift.mcc. Thercfoi-c Emica diim licet, was good warning* but when we were determined to comply with it, we were put to a ftand a while, by a thick Cloud of Smoke that came and intercepted our Sight of a Ridge of Rubbifh we were to go along in our return : But a favourable Guft of Wind came in a little time, and clcai-'d the way for us. AVe were not long in laying hold of the Opportunity : We hobbled down the firll defcent as faft as we cou'd, and got to the Plain above-mcn- tion'd ; where we examin'd the Bits of Wood we had put freih into Ibme Cracks and Chinks there, and found them half burnt. Now our Defcent was as eafy, as our Afcent was difficult, by another way our Guide led us to, a pcrfed Rivulet of Sand and Afhcs, and pulvcriz'd Cinders, that ran down along with us : All our Care now was to flacken our Motion as much as poillble, for we were perfcdly carried away with the Stream. Varen'ius reckons up twenty of thefe Volcano's in feveral parts of the World, among which Vefnvnis bears almoft the ■ ; chief Place. And by what I have heard, more is to be fccn of this than oiavid and a Judith. 'Tis no new thing in that Country to fanftify prophane Statues with Scripture-Names, that they may appear in their Churches without off'cnce. This Poet's Tomb is in a little, but beauti- ful Church, built by himfelf, and dedicated, Al Santiffimo Tarto della Gran Madre di IDio, [to the moft holy Offspring of the Great Mother of God. J It is at the Bottom of the Hill Taiu Jilypo, as that call'd Virgil'^ is on the Side of it. There is a genteel Diftich of Cardinal Bembo's infcrib'd on the Monument, in Allufion to the Situation, &c. 'Da Pausilypo. 175 « 'Da facr» cineri jlores •■, Hie Hie Maroni Sinccrus, musd proximus, ut tumulo. Here lies Sincere, (let Flow'rs the Place perfume,) To Virgil next in Verfe, as next in Tomb. Befidcs aBuftof .y^ww^s^^rm, which is at the Top of his Mo- nument, they keep his real Skull in the Chapel there, which may perhaps in time become a facred Rclique ; and he pafs for ^» a Saint, as poor Virgil does for a Conjurer. The Tomb of Virgil is at the Brink of a Precipice, which has been made by enlarging the Entrance into the famous Grotta which bears the Name of the Hill *. The Area is almofl a Square, * Pau%po. of about five Yards j there are fome Niches in the "Walls within, but nothing now in them. At the Top of it on the Outfide are fome Bays ; and the People there take care to tell you they grow fpontaneous, and that they arc green all the Year. There is a wretched Diftich infcrib'd on a Wall juft over againft the Place where we enter, enough to fright away Virgil's Allies thence, if ever they were there. The Grotta feems to be about half a Mile long : The People there call it a Mile : Tis cut thro' the Body of the Hill, diredly ftrait, and is the publick Road from Naples to Tozzuoli, &c. Two Carts or Coaches may cafily pafs, if they don't fall foul on one another by rcafon of the Darknefs ; added to this Darknefs, there is a grievous Duft, even now that it is paved, which it was not \i\Senecdi,T'nr\Q.--, it was lb bad then, that he fays, Ep. 57. Etiamfi locus haberet lucent, pulvis auferret : • ^liquid tamen niihi lUa obfcuritas quod cogitarem dedit. Senji quendam lEium animi, & fine metu rnutationem, quarn infolita ret novitas ac foeditas fecerat : rurfiis ad primum conjpeftutn reddita lucis, alacritas incogitata rediit & injujfa. " Tho' " the Place had Lii;ht, the Duft is fuch as would take it away : " yet that very Gloominefs yielded matter of Reflexion. I felt " a kind of Shock and Alteration in my Mind, tho' without *' Fear, caus'd at once by the Novelty and Offenfivcnefs of a thing " lb uncouth: Again, at the firft Glimpfe of the returning <' Light, a Hidden Chcarfulncfs return d with it, unbidden and " un- 1^6 P A u s I L y p o, ^c. " unthought of." I believe it has fomewhat of alikeF.ffcd upon every Stranger at his firft pafilng through it. The Arch at tlic Entrance appears very higli in proportion to the Breadth, and is much higher at each End than towards the Middle, for the fake of letting in Light. Being cut thro' a folid Hill, there is no Pollibility of its having any fuch thing as Windows to enlighten it i fo that except what comes in at each End, there is no other Light than what is darted thro' two Hoping Funnels at the Top 5 each of which ftrikes a fudden bright Spot on the Ground, which amidft the furrounding Darknefs, ferves rather to dazle than direct. The Paflage, taking it altogether, is very romantick and uncommon. The Paving of it is much after the Manner of that of the City of Naples, with broad flat Stones. ]uft before the Entrance, there are large Infcriptions on Marble, enumerating the fcveral Baths which that way leads to, and fetting forth the Virtues of them. There is a little Chapel hollowed into one fide of the Rock within the Grotta, with a few glimmering Lamps for Devotion ♦ to x.\\z Madonna, butof very little Service to light the Paflenger 5 and there are Ibme Soldiers fet there as Guards to prevent Rob- beries in a Place fo dangerous on that fcorc. If the Infide of this Hill be fodifmal, the Ourfide is as gay and plcafant ^ all be- fet with delicious Villa's and Vineyards. There is a Church there, San^i^e Maria ad Fortimam, which was an ancient Tem- ple oi Fortune. The Villa of Vedins Tollio was formerly here. As we went along the Sea-Shore, we law feveral Ruins of the old Tnteoli, as, we did of other Places, wherever we went in that Journey : and we were told, that from the Promontory of Surrentttm on one fide the great Bay of Naples, to Mifenum on the other IkIc, an Extent of above thirty Miles, the whole Shore was once fill'd with fine Seats, Palaces and Temples 5 and the Remains of fcveral doflill appear. Tiberius'% Fondncfs for C/2- prea, where Juvenal fpeaks of him ■ angufla Caprearum inrnpefedentis Cum grege Chaldao ^ Coop'd in a narrow Iflc, obferving Dreams With flattering Wizards, and creeling Schemes, Dryden. Monte Gauro. i'7'7 doubtlefs Induc'd many of his Followers to take their Rcfi- dencc in its Neighbourhood. Wc faw Remains of fevcral Temples built in the round Figure, like the pantheon at Rome, which (whether upon any certain Authority, I know not) they difdnguifhby the Names of ^W/(?, ©/^»^, Neptune, &<.c. One, which is faid to have been dedicated to Venus, has in its Neigh- bourhood fome Apartments, which they call the Chambers of Venus: Thefe certainly have a juft Claim to that Patronefs, whatever the Temple may have ; as may be fccn by fome Baflb- Relievo's * ftili remaining in Plaifter on the Roof. The Place is intirely dark, fo that what we faw of it was all by Torch-tight. The fevcral Groupcs were divided by Bordures [or Mouldings] into fquare Compartiments ; and I am apt to beUevc they were ftamp'd, from the Repetition we obferv'd of fome of the fame things exadly in the fame manner, and likewife from the Man- ner of joining the ieyeral Bordures to one another. The Monte Gauro, once fo famous for its Wines, afterwards became (tlnro' Earthquakes, &c.) in a great meafurc barren, and continued fo for fome time, infomuch that it obtain'd the Name of Alonte Batbaro, but has fince been cultivated and planted, and is at this time very fertile in fome parts of it. Hereabouts they fay was produced the famous t Falernian wine, and the Conful of Naples gave us fome that came from thence, which he would call by that name. This Mountain is in the form of a vaft Amphitheatre i and what wc may csWxhc Arena of it is a fine fruitful Plain. He!:e our Cicero told us the ancient Romans us'd to exercife their Soldiers. There is a Ruin at the top of the Mountain on the fide next the Sea, which he call'd 'Julius Cafar's Caftle. This Cicero of ours, I think, might have been reckon d among the Antiquities and Rarities of the Place ; he difdain'd to fpeak any thing but Latin to us ; and though he rode on an Afs, he was as learned as if his Afs had been a Tega- fus. I know not whether the Title of Cicerones for thofe fort of Antiqiia- * Thefe have fome of them been taken away or other wife deftroyed fince wc were there, but Signior Burtoli has the Defigns of feveral of them, whether done by himfdf or his Father, I don't remember. t The Majp.aim Vimim is by fome fuppos'd to have grown on the Mount Ganrtii, and the .FVi./«r;?«OT on the Plain Woy/ it. ■■■. .1. .♦ A a ' M ,.".;; . . .-'-t ..yu'i>\ lyS MonTeNuOVO, ^C. Antiquaries be more ancient than this old Gentleman, elfehe might poillbly have been the Occafion of others being fo called ; for he fccms to be an Original. Not far from the Foot of this Mountain, near the Sea, is what is left of the famous Lucrine Lake, fo celebrated by the ancient Poets for its Oyftcrs ; but by that great Earthquake, and dread- ful Eruption in theYcarissS, it was almoft filled up. If a Lake was almoft loft, a Mountain was then gain'd, which they now call Monte Nttovo. This Mountain of three miles in compafs, and in height near equal to Mount Gaurus, was form- ed by a moft violent Eruption in the Place where it now ftands*, in one night's time, [according to all the accounts there gi- -ven^ and a terrible night it was. A Caftle with a large Hofpi- tal, a great many Houfes with their Inhabitants, Cattle, ^c. were all dcftroy'd. The People of 'Pozztwli (whofc fituation gave them a full view of all that happen'd) were in the ut- moft confternation to hear the dreadful Thunders, to fee the Vomitings of Fire, the Stones and Sand thrown up, and the la- mentable Havock it made, expefting nothing but that they all fhould be deftroyed. In that Fright they all ran to Naples^ and for two years their City was uninhabited. "Don 'Pietro di Tole- do was then Viceroy of Naples -, and feeing 'Tozzuoli thus a- bandoned, and that the People would riot return, he took a refolution to animate them by his own Example i he fet vigoroufly to work, built a Palace there, and came and liv'd in it himfelf, and by that means brought them back. The Place having been built only upon that occafion, has not been in- habited of later Years. We went to the top of a Tower in it, whence we faw the remaining EfFefts of that Eraption which gave Occafion to its Strufture, and at the fame time had a moft lovely Profpeft of the other parts of the Country. In one or two rooms we faw fome good Frefco Paintings, the Battles of the Amazons, Centaurs, &c. This new Mount is hollow [which fecms a Proof of its being made by an Eruption in the Place where it ftands] and barren, as confifting of burnt Sand, and Stones half vitrified : a great many of the like Stones, pro- bably •Bifliop Burnet wa<; roifinform'd, that a vaft Quantity of Earth was carried from Sol- fatara hither, above three Miles,, and fo formed the Hill called Montt iJuovo. S I B I l's G r o t t a. 1*79 bably thrown up at the lame time, He loofe at Ibmc diftaii' c from the Hill on every Side. There are in thefe Parts abundance of Baths, and Sweating- places ; one among them they call Cicero's, at Baia -, another Nero's ; to him are afcrib'd thofe famous ones of Tritoli, which Hor spring, could indeed be made by none but an Emperor, and fuch"-^ '^"'^'^'* a one too as did not value the Toil, or indeed the Lives of lus Slaves, who muft have work'd hard where the Heat was To fuf- focating, that we were fcarce able to (laud. ^here are feveral Paflagcs cut thro' a hard Rock, which lead to Springs of feveral degrees of Heat : One is fcalding hot. Some of thefe Paflagcs are too, others from 140 to 160 Paces in length. We went into one, and that none of the hotteft, and were hardly perfua- dcd before we enter'd, that it was ncceflary to ftrip to our Shirts, but when we had gone a little way, we could almoft have been contented to have parted with our Skins : That Paf- fage is of a Breadth but for one Perfon, and of the Height only of an ordinary Man, fo that the Heat comes along very power- fully, and at firft is indeed furprifing, even there : In fome of the other Paffages they fay 'tis in a manner infupportable. To- wards the further end there isaDefcenttotheWater, fteep and flippery, which makes it difficult enough to keep your Feet. I think this is as extraordinary a Place as any we met with. Another great Curiofity is tliat vaft fubterraneous Work which they call the Cumaan Sibyl's Grotta. The Paflage they told ussibylVGrof/4; was of three Miles in Length [all under Ground] from one end near Cuma to the other juft by the Lake Avernus } but by Earth- quakes, &c. is now ftuff'd up with Rubbifh, fo that we could not go forward above 100 Paces at one end, and about 300 at the other. Li that part next Cuma there is a pair of Stairs in the Rock which goes winding a little ; at the Top of thefe is a narrow Pailagc, which had a Communication with what they call the Arx Apollmis \_Apollo% Tower] the Remains of which they ihcw above. •Arces qnibus alius Apollo Trtefidet. • Virgil. the facred Hill, Where ^^/^^-^wj is ador'd. •• , Drvden, A a 2 The I So ..-.v\'. A V E R N U S, ^C. ' * The Defcent at this End, tho' rugged and horrible, is wide enough : Excifu?n Euboicx latus ingens rupis in Antrum. A fpacious Cave within its farmoft Part, Was hcw'd and fafhion'd by laborious Art, Thro' the Hill's hollow Sides.' . ViRG. Dryden. But That at the other end next Avernus is narrow, and fo low, that one muft crawl on Hands and Knees to get into it : but afterwards it widens and heightens very much. The prefent Straitnefs at the Entrance is only owing to the Obftruftion of Rubbifh, the removing of which wou'd prefent the true Mouth of the Cave at this end next Avermis^ according to Virgil^^ Defcription. ;./.,.,,,•.; ... .,:,•■,.,-,-;,,, Spelunca alt a f nit ^ vajioque immanis hiatu Scrupea, Deep was the Cave, and downward as it went, Trom the wide Mouth, a rocky rough Defcent. Dryden.' He then goes oh to defcribe the adjacent Lake in the Con- dition 'twas then in ; ■Tiita lacti nigra nemorumque tenebris * So Dryden read it ; but fome read Aornum, which better fuits the De- fcription ; and of tchich A- vcrnus is pro- bably a Cor- ruption. ^lam fuper hatd nlla pot er ant impune volant es Tender e iter pcnnis ', talis fefe halitus atris Fancibus ejfnndens fnpera ad convexa ferebat, Unde locum Graii dixerunt nomine Avernum *. And here th' Acccfs a gloomy Grove defends. And here th' unnavigable Lake extends. O'er whofe unhappy Waters, void of Light, No Bird prcfumcs to ftccr his Airy Flight ; Such deadly Stenches from the Depth arife. And ftcaming Sulphur that infcfts the Skies. From hence the Gracian Bards their Legends make, And give the Name Avernits to the Lake. Drvden, I ' - • - - ^^ The A V E R N u s, t^c. igr The Trees are now long fincc rcmov'd that corrupted its Wa- ters ; Birds play freely o'er its Surface, and the Filh within it : Befides, we may allow the Poet, defcribing an Entrance into Hell, to make the Place as difmal as he could. And that this was the Avernns defcrib'd by the Poets, we may gather from Tnlly, who applies to the Lactis Avermis^ in his own Country, the Lines of one of the old Poets, defcribing the Entrance of their Hell. Inde, in vicinia nojira Averni Lacus, Vnde anima excitantur, obfcura umbra, aperto oflio Alti Acherontis. Whence Ghofts are fummon'd, from the dusky Shade, The Gates wide-open'd of deep Acheron. The many hot Fountains hereabouts might give occafion to Homer J whom the other Poets follow, to fix his Scene here for the Rivers of Hell. At the Diftance of about 300 Paces from this Entrance, a great Heap of Rubbifh prevents further Paflage. A little fhort of that, we turn'd on the Right, and went along another way for about 200 Paces, and found two •Cells, in one of which are what they call the Sibyls Baths, On the Roof and Sides are fome fmall Remains of old Orna- ments of Gilding ; and the Ploor they fay was wrought in Mo- faic, but that was fo cover 'd with Water, that we cou'd not fee it ; which likewife prevented our going into the Room ; but it being a fmall one, we faw it well enough at the Door. Op- pofite to this there is another Cell, which (as I remember) they caird the Sibyls Lodging-Room i out of this there goes an. Afcent of about 40 or 50 Paces, but it is there ftop'd up again by Rubbifh fallen in. There is no manner of Light but what one brings with one, of Torches, &c. Several other PaflTagcs there arc, ftill open, and many more, no doubt, choak'd up with Rubbifh, which therefore we could not fee. Whether this was really a Sibyl's Grotta or no, 'tis gena-ally agreed to have been. that from whence Virgil tookhis Idea; fo that 'tis at Icaft the Grotta of the 'i^neid •■, and in many refpcits anlwers the De- fcription there given extremely well. CUMM, 1 82. C u M iE, (Sc. CU Me, while it flood, was efteem'd the ancientcft City in Italy i built by the Eubffans. Et tandem Euboicis Cumarum adlabitur Oris. Ma. 6. And rcacli'd at length Euboic Cumds Shore. There are now but poor Remains of it : The moft intire thing belonging to it is an old Arch, called Arco feliccy which is the Entrance into the Territory oiCuma. This Arch is made of Brick, and notwithllanding its vaft Age, the Bricks are the moft entire, and bell: joined, as well asofthefineft Confiftence, and largcft Size that ever I law. What has contributed very much to its long Duration, befides its own Strength (for 'tis of a great Thicknefs) is, that it ftands between two Hills, which are a never-failing Butment to it on each fide. Not far from hence is the Tempio delGigante [Temple of the Giant] fo call'd from the Coloflal Statue of Jupiter, already mention'd, which was taken out of it. There is a great Nicli at the upper end, and two more on the Sides. Its vaulted Roof is divided into fquare Compartiments after the Manner of the 'Pantheon at Rome. A little further we faw another antique Structure, with a vaulted Roofi this feem'd to have been a Burial-place, /'. e. a Repofitory for Urns, by the Niches about the Walls, they being of a proper Size for that purpofe. The Remains of Cum£ are now very fmall above ground, but by digging among the Heaps that are there, a great deal might doubtlefs be difcover'd ; and fuch as have taken the pains to do it, have found pieces of Walls incrufted with Marble, bro- ken Entablatures, Pillars and Statues, which have been carried away to Naples and other places : But the bell that have been found in any of the parts hereabouts, are gone to Spairiy which makes us fee fo few at Naples it felf, in proportion to what one might exped from the Ruins of ^o many Temples, Palaces, and other magnificent Structures which were anciently in its Neighbourhood. Our Cicero (hew'd us at a difiance the Remains of the old Linternum, a Colony of the Romans, now call'd T atria, and Torre di P atria, from a Tower crcded in the Place where Scipio Africanus was buried. He had a Villa there B A I iE. i8g there, where he ended his Days in Privacy, having made him- felf a voluntary Exul, thro'aDifguft he had taken at the Ingra- titude of his Countrymen ; and it is faid that the Name ^ atria was given to this Diftricl, from his having chofen to make it his Country. Valerius Maximus tells a pretty odd Story, " That " feveral Captains of Bands of Robbers, that had a Defire to fee " Scipio, happcn'd to come to this Villa of his, for that pur- *' pole, at the fame time. He imagining that Violence was their " Dcfign, put himfelf and his Domefticks upon their Guard ; " they perceiving it, fent off their Men, laid down their Arms, *' and coming to the Gate, declar'd aloud, that they came to " him not as Enemies of his Perfon, but as Admirers of his " Virtues, and earncftly dcfiring, as a Blcfling from Heaven, " Admittance to the Prefence of fo great a Man. They were " thereupon admitted ; and doing Reverence to the very Door- " Ports, as tho' they had been the Altars of fome moft holy " Temple, eagerly laid hold of Scifio's Hand, and kifs'd it over *' and over 5 and then placing at the Entrance fuch Offerings " as are ufually confccrated to the Divinity of the immortal " Gods, returned home tranfported, that they had been fo happy *' as to fee Scipio." L. 2. C. 10. 'Twas pretty extraordinary that Virtue fhould appear fo amiable to Perfons who liv'd upon Rapine and Plunder. I fhould not have troubled my Reader with an old Story of Scipio, but that I happen to be now at that Place of his Retirement which was the Scene of it. Having done with Cuma and its Territory, we'll make a fhort Vifit to Bai£, the Song of all the Poets : I fhall only inftancc Bai*. "what Martial i'Siys of it in one Place. Litiis beata Veneris aureiim Baias, Ibzizs fuperba blanda dona Katiira % Ut mille laudem, Flacce, verfibus Baias, Laudabo digne nonfat is tamen Baias. L. 11, Ep. 81. Baia, bleft Venus' Golden Shore j Baia proud Nature's richcft Store 5 Sing Baia in a thoufand Lays, You'll ftill fall fliort of Baia'i Praifc. Wc ^^4 B A I isi M I S E N U M. We fee nothing of its ancient Buildings, (whieh were moft beautiful) except a few Ruins, great part of which arc cover'd with Water ; but, its delicious Situation remains always the fame, and its Port ftill commodious for Shipping. For the De- fence of this, Doyi 'Vietro di. Toledo, m the Time of Charles the Fifth, built aftrong Caftle upon a high Promontory, juft at the Entrance into the Port. Whattheycall the Temples of /^;2«j, 'Diana, ■is^'i Mercury, before-mcntion'd, are near the Shore of this Port,- as is what tiicy fhcw for the Tomb of Agr'ippina. We have the Authority of Tacitus, that it was fomewherc in thefe Parts • T>omefti- corurn cur a levem tumnliim accepit, Viam M\(iBatoris, Annal. Lib. 14. " She had a flight " Tomb made for ha-, by the Care of her Domefticks, by the " fide of the Way to Mifenum, and near the Villa of Cafar " the Dictator." But, that what they fhew'd us was the Place, is as little certain as 'tis material. They ftill fliew the Remains of the Villa's of Cafar, Tompey, C. Alarms, and feveral others, Pifcina Mira- Between Ba/a and Mifetium is the Tifcina Mirabilis [wonder- ful Filh-pond] : we went down about forty Steps into it; its Roof is fupported by Pillars, that are incrufted with a Plaifter as hard as the Stone it felf ; this was doubrlefs a Refervoir of Water ; the Ceyito Camerelle [hundred Chambers] might poflibly have been fo too : Some will have them to have been a Pri- fon ; they can give no Certainty of the Matter. The firft Entrance into this is fupported by Pillars i the Paflage into the further part is folow, that one is forc'd to (loop, and go almoft double to get into it. The Difpofition of the Cells, and the Pafl'ages from one into another are fo odd and out of the way, that it puzzles the Curious to find out what Ufe they were for. Near this Place lie what they call the Elyjian Fields, which we walk'd along the Side of, and afterward pafs'd in a Boat by the Mare Mortmim [Dead Sea] toward the Promontory of Mi- Miiinum. fenum, where /^/r^// buries o^^wf^j-'s famous Trumpeter : Monte fnb a'crio, qui nunc Mifenus ab illo Dicitur, aternunique tenet per facula nomen. ^n. 6, Thus was his Friend interr'd : and deathlcfsFamc Still to the lofty Cape configns his Name. Dryden. Virgih bilis Bai^. Pozzuoli. 185 Virgil's, Words have prov'd true hitherto. Somewh;?.t fhort of the Point of the Promontory, we faw what they call the Grotta Dragonara, another large Refervoir of Water, its Roof fupported by vaft fquare Pillars. There are a world of an- cient Ruins in this Neighbourhood, but no Certainty what they are the Remains of. The Villa's of Hortenfins and Lnciilhis are faid to be two of them. We have Tliny's Account of the Situation oi Hortenjlus's Fifh-ponds, Apid Baulos in parte Baiana Tifcinam habnit Hortenfms Orator. " Hortenfiv.s the <' Orator had a Fifh-pond at Bauli on the Side of Baia." Thefe Bauli or Baulia [quafi Boaulia'] is the Place where (according to the old Story) Herciples brought the Cattle he had plundcr'd from Geryon in Spain. This is by the Sca-fidc below Baia. There are abundance of Caverns about Baix and Mifennm, which we faw the Mouths of, but did not go into them. We had been pretty much apud Inferos [under ground] in this fmall Excurfion; and had pafs'd the Acheroji and Averntis -, had feen the Elyjian Fields j and, without the Help of a Golden Bough, madefhift revocare gradnm, fuperafque evader e ad auras. to return, and view the chearful Skies. Dryden. At TozzuoU there are ftill remaining fome Arches of the old Caiiguia'i Mole of Tnteoli, commonly called Caligula's Bridge, from its ^'"^^'• Refemblance to a Bridge, as being built upon Arches, and be- caufe Caligula did make a Bridge from thence quite over to Baia, an Extent of three Miles, but not a Bridge of Stone or Brick. Suetonius thinks it Miracle enough, and calls it Novum ac inaudittim genus fpeBaculi, " A new and unheard-of kind " of Shew, that he made a Bridge of Boats, over llich an Extent " of Sea J the Boats being join d together in a double Row, fix'd " to their Anchors, and cover'd with a Bed of Earth, and fo " carried on direct, after the Manner of the yJppian-W^y'. Contrail is nndique onerariis navibus, ^ or dine duplici ad an- coras collocatiSj fitperje£loque aggere terreno, ac dire^to in Appiae Wix formam. Vit. Calig. cap. 19. B b There 1 86 Poz2uoLi. Salfatara.' There are the Remains of aa Amphitheatre near Toz- zuoli, and of two Circus's, or at Icaft what are thought to have been lb. ., We law in the Market-place at Tozziioli a Iquare Piece of Marble with fourteen Figures in Bairo-Rclievo, which is fup- pos'd to have been the Pedeftal of a Statue ereded to Tibe- rius^ upon his reftoring fourteen Cities of y^Jia which were de- ftroyed by an Earthquake. That thcfe Figures reprefent fo many Greek Cities, is paft all doubt, for the Names are under-writ- ten 5 but the Figures are not of fo good a Tafte as one might have expcded to have been done in the Time oiTiberhis. They ihew'd us at Tozzuoli one of their Churches which had been an old Temple of Jnpiter : Some fine Corinthian Pillars are now remaining on the Outfidc. , The Houfes here are flat at top, as thcfe at Naples, and plai- fter'd over. Between Tozztioli and Naples, a little out of the common Road, IS the So Ifatar a, and Lago d'j4gnano, &c. Solfatara. THE Solfatara is a large Plain within the Top of a Hill, which as it were rims it round. On one fide is an Opening, where we enter. In fome refpefts it refembles Vefwvius for its continual Smoke, <^c. and was therefore anciently call'd Forum Vnlcani, and Campus Thlegraus. The Smoke iffues out m feveral Places, and in one with a great Noifc, much after the Manner of a Smith's Bellows when they are blowing their Fire, but much louder. This Blaft and Stream of Smoke is continued, and not as it were by Fits, as that of Vefu- V2US is. The Mouth of it is very fmall : The Man that llicw'd us the Place, rak'd the little Stones that lay thereabout, to it, and they were blown upwards to a confidcrable height. He held an Iron Pick-Ax near it, which in a Moment's time bccanie ib wet, that the Drops fell from it 5 but holding a piece of Paper near tlie fame Vent, That was not wet at all ; rather more dry than when put there. I know not how to account for it, unlets the Coldnefs and Hardnefs of the Iron rcfifting, condens'd the Va- pour, which pafs'd through the more porous Contexture and Thinnefs of the Paper. I remember he held the Paper a good deal clofcr to the Mouth, than he did the Pick-Ax 5 which had SOLFATARA, ^C 187 had I confider'd while we were there, I would have made him change their Places, and tried how the Effeft would have been then. A Bit of Wood put into one of thcfe Holes is burnt to Charcoal, but not to Afhcs j — whether it be that the fiery Par- ticles are lock'd in as it were, and clogg'd with fome others that hinder the Wood from flaming, or that it be only for want of a fuliicicnt Lilet of the outer Air, which the Vapour continually ifluing out may hinder from entering, or from what other Caiife, I leave to the Philofophcrs to determine. The Place is all beftrew'd with Lumps of Sulphur of:: different Contexture and Colours, and the Air filled with the flfong Scent of it. Thro' the Cracks and Crevices of the Ground, Steams are. continually ri- fmg in abundance of Places •■, for the fake of thefe, fuch as are confumptive, ^c. come frequently hither, and receive grcar Benefit. We law one litting, and Ik-ammg him feif near a Place where the Smoke came gently out. The Hill is all a perfccl Drum; they are cautious-how they fuffer Hories to come on a, as not daring to trufl: too far to the uncertain Strength of the Cruft we go upon The Man, how- ever, took up a large Stone, and threw it down with Ibme Force, which made fuch d^ Ribombo., (as they call it) as Ihew'd a pro- digious HplloNv was, underneath. Beiides the vail Qiiantitiesof Sulphur, here 4hey find abundance of Nitre, and the befl: of Vitriol : They likewife here prepare and bring to perfcftion their Alom, which is digefted in Cauldrons of Lead (found by Ex- perience to be better than Copper, which they made ufe of be- fore) let a little way into the Ground, and there it boils with no other Fire than that of the Mountain ; — and adual Fire they lay there does come out of thole Crevices, whence we faw the Smoke ilfue, and is frequently fcen in the Night, tho' not vifible in the Day-time. The Lago d^gnauo is likcwiCc furrounded with Hills, fothati-ngo the Place looks like a vail Balbn, v/ith Water in the Bottom of '^''^sn^no. it : It is about a Mile in Compafs. The Water in feveral Places boils and bubbles up as in a Kettle over the Fire : — and Fire no doubt there is under this, hi the deeper Parts of the Lake, the Water they lay is hot below, tho' cool at the top : which I believe is true 5 for, near the Sides of the Lake, the little Orifices at the Bottom, juft under the Bubbles which Ihew'd B b 2 them- iSS GK-Otta del Cane; themfelves upon the Surface, I could perceive fenfibly warm to my hand, tho* the Water itfelf being fo very fhallow there, be kept cool by the outer Air. Near this Lake is the famous Grotta del Cane ; fo called, be- caufe it is chiefly with a Dog they fhew the Experiment of the Suffocating Vapour which is there. It was anciently called Cha- ronea Scrobs. This Place, to which they give the fine Name of a Grotta-, is no more than a Hollow of about eight or nine Foot made in the Side of a Rock, in which a middle-fiz'd Man cannot ftand upright. The Bottom of it is flat, and out of it there arifes a Vapour to the Height of about a Foot, which waves and curls within itfelf, docs not fcatter, but keeps its Surface parallel to the Bottom. And tho' you fl:oop within the Place, keeping your Head above this wavy Surface, you perceive little or no offence -, fo clofely united does the Vapour keep itfelf within that Compafs. The Dog, with which we faw the Trial made, as ibon as he was laid down within it, began with a Ibrt of Sneezing, then loU'd out his Tongue, and foam'd at the Mouth, his Eyes roll'd and grew dim, he panted much, with a fort of hasking Nolle, then he went into Convulfions, his Strug- gles ftill growing more languid by degrees, till at lafl: he lay in a manner as dead. Then they took him out, and laid him on the - Grafs, not far off the Lake-fide, where (like Antaus when he had touch'd the Earth) he very foon recover'd, and frisk'd about as if nothing had been done to him. The pretended particular Qiialities of the Lake for recovering Animals that have been in the Vapour, are certainly nothing : The Animals cannot breathe within the Vapour 5 as ibon as they arc brought out of it into the open Air, they begin to recover -, when they arc laid on the Ground they receive more Refrefhment, and more ftill perhaps when laid with their Body in the Water, and their Head on the Bank, as is fometimes done. The Dog was in the Vapour about a quarter of an Hour. — - A Viper and a Toad both feem'd to prefent themfelves as Sacrifices to Philofophy : By accident we found them in our way to the Grotta, and put them both in s, each of thcfe liv'd much about the fame time, and that was about half an Hour. When they feem'd to be quire dead, we took them out, laid them on the Grafs, but no Signs of Recovery. A Servant that was with us, whom wc had hired for the Time of Rome. 1S9 of our Stay at Naples, took the Viper as a dead one, and carried it along with us to Naples : Some Hours after, he came to us with a Story, that the Viper had recover'd, and had bit him ; but we look'd upon it only as a Sham to get Money, and did not re- gard him, (for I had feen it dead enough to all appearance, fome time after our Arrival at Naples, and had meafur'd it, and found it to be about a Yard long) fo we heard no more of the Viper nor the Wound. The Fellow at the Grotta fliew'd us the ufual Experiment of lighted Torches, which, as foon as held within the Vapour, were immediately extingiiilhcd. —A Fowl, they fay, dies the fooneft in the Vapour of any thing. At a little diftance from this peftifercrus Grotta, there is an- Sudatorii di other as much the contrary. The Place bears the Name of ^- Germano. i Sudatorii, or Fumarole di S. Germano : [The Sweating or Steaming-places of S, German.'] There are two or three little Cells under one Roof, with Seats or forts of Couches in them, cut out of the fulphurous Rock, where People may fit or lie and fwcat, and at the fame time fnufF up the Steams, which are fo ftrong and fufFocating, and the Heat fo intcnfe, that a Perfon in Health cares not how fhort a time he flays in the Place : but there are Vifitants to it fometimes from Naples, that muil be content not to make too much hafte out of it. Thefe are the principal things we obferv'd in Naples, and the Country about it, during our fhort Stay there. ROM E. WE made the more hafte from Naples to Rome, in expec- tation of feeing the Ceremonies of the Holy Week; but the principal were omitted, by reafon of the Death of the Pope {Clement XL] which had happen'd a little before. We faw one thing there during the Sede Vacante, which was much difcourag'd by Clem. XI. in his Life-time. A piece of Dif- cipiine which fome Zealots exercife upon themfelves with a fort of Scourge made of feveral twifted Cords, in which were interwoven Ends of Pins, or fome fort of Wires with thefe they fcourg'd and flaih'd themfelves to a horrible degree,, walking along the Streets. Their Faces were vcil'd y. they had nothing OEl. ipo Rome; on from their Waft upwards but their Shirts, which had a Slitopcn at the Back, that the bare Skin might receive the Strokes, which feem'd to be given pretty heartily, all in one Spot, which was as raw as one can imagine. ■ What Eixls, other than bare Penitence they propofe to themfelves in theie Exerciles, 1 know not ; but fome parts of their Behaviour feem ill to fuit with that; if what is faid they do fometimes be true, that they play tricks with the People they pafs by, and dafh their Blood in their Faces and upon their Clothes. Thofc that play thefe fort of Tricks arc moft likely to be fuch as difcipline themfelves for hire, which has been a pretty common Praftice ; and thole that pay them have the Merit of the Penance. I have been told there are fome Fellows at Naples, that make it their bufinefs to flaih them- felves thus for other peoples Shis -, and if no body happen to employ them, they are forc'd to do it for their own, their Con- ftitution requiring a Scarification at that time of year, by having been accuftomed to it. Clement XI. died the 1 9th oi March 1 72 1, N. S. after a Reign of twenty Years, and about three Months. He was eftccm'd a Man of Learning, and affable Behaviour, and gave patient Audi- ence to the Meaneft : However, his Subjcdts thought he liad reign'd long enough.' The Rowans pleafe themfelves with the jubilee of a new Promotion ; the Court-Favours are then to run in a new Channel, and every Man is in hopes of fome Bene- fit by the Change. The Conclave for the Elcdion of the new Pope fate about five Wrecks, which is rcckon'd but a fhort time. It was Ihut up the 3 oth of March, and the new Pope was proclaim'd the 8th of May by Cardinal 'Fanfilio, who came to the Loggia del/a Bene- d'ltione, over the noble Portico which is at the Entrance into S. 'Peter /?»rf»/«, oa the Caftle of S. viwfe/o, were very beautiful. ■ ^ C c 194 Rome. ' The very Windows of the Conclave are made up with Brick, within a very little way of the Top, and that part clos'd with fome Linncn Cloth which admits exceeding little either of Light or Air : The Want of the later often proves prejudicial to the Health of their Emincncies, fome of whom are of too great an Age to be able to bear it ; fo that many fall fick, and fome die in long Conclaves. In that fhort one which was held while we were there, one of them I'Pariciani'} came out fo ill, that he foon died, and was buried within three Days after its breaking up. Prince Chigi was at that time Governour, or Guardian, of the Conclave 5 (I don't very well remember the Title : ) and we were told. That Office is hereditary in his Family, and that the Occafion of it was as follows. The Brigues and Dillcnfions of the Cardinals had once prolonged the Sede Vacante for fo con- fiderable a time, that there were Apprehenfions the Church might receive great detriment, if a Pope were not foon clefted : where- upon, one of the C^/^/ Family, who was then Governour, or Guardian, of the Conclave, uncovcr'd the Roof of a great Part of it, and thereby letting in the foul Weather upon the Cardi- jials, foon forc'd their Eminencies to an Eledion. As a Re- ward for this ftgnal piece of Service to the Church, That Office was made hereditary in his Family. It is well known that 'Pafquin and Marforio are always bufy at the Elcdion of a Pope, and for Diverfion to his new Holinefs his Friends fometimes tell him what Tafqiiin has faid of the matter. At this time that merry Gentleman was making Figures. Marforio asks him. Is he turn'd Aritlimetician ? Taf- quin afwcrs, Fo Conti"^ ; — — ^er fapere quant bifogna per arrichlare trenta Nefoti. " I make Conti *, or Computa- " tions, — to know how much will go to enrich thuty poor " t Nephews." It is faid that the Pope being told of it, anfwer'd, " That they had not reckon'd half, for all the decay 'd Nobility of " Rome fhould be his Kepoti." Other Tafquinades there were about the Pope's Lethargy. His Anfwer to them (they fay) was, that " He flcpt before, that he might wake the better now." This • The Family-Name of the new Pope. Alfo, it fignifies Accounts or Computations, f For, iiotwuhllaoduig t!ie Pope wasof fo noble a Family, he was laid to baveagrcat many poor RelatJOcu JR. O M E. 1 05 This. Bufuicrs ©f the Conclave, and what !t pi'oduc'd, was the Grand Affair on foot at Rotne when we rcturn'd thither from Naj)les, fo that I was induc'd to fay fomcwhat of tliat, before I jpcak of the City itfelf. And what indeed can I lay, but what is pretty generally known, of a Place fo famous thro' fo many Ages, of which fo much has been written, and which has fuch conltant Vifits paid to it every Year from England zs well as other Countries ? However, that there may not be a Chafm in this my Account, fuch as it is, I fhall offer what occurr'd there to vwy Own Obfervation. As to the general Situation of Rome, it is built (as is well known) upon feveral Hills near one another^ now moft of them are become rather Emincncies only, by means of the Ruins that have railed the Ground between them : but thefc Hills ftand ui the middle of a Plam, which is low, and tho' very wide, is in the nature of a Valley to the Mountains, which lie at fome di- ftance round, as may be plainly feen by the feveral Approaches to it, and particularly that from Naples. And to the Lownefs of this Plain, and the ftagnated Waters that lie in fome parts of it, which have no natural Outlet, and are not carried off by proper Methods, is doubtlefs owing that unwholefomc Air, fo much complain'd of in Rome, and the Campagna* [or Country] * 'Th ufi£'of Rooms one within another, witkthcVifto thro' the Marble Door-cafes, is very magnificenL As many of them arc Princes, fo they diftribute their Apartments accor- dingly i into Ante-chauibcrs for waiting. Chambers of Audi- ence, (for liicy afFed the higheft Names) with Baldachinos, or Canopies of State ; and thcfe lead to the private Apartment of the Prince himfelf, /. e, one for form fake on the State-Floor i for their ufual abode is either at the top or tlie bottom of the Houlc 5 the former being their Winter, the later their Summer- Apii-tmcni, Thefe.later have aa appearance peculiarly amufing to us. I'Q-S E O M E. us, w'lio are us'd to fee little of that nature in England. 7 hey ha\'c generally arch'd Roofs, painted in Frefco, and adorn'd with Statues and Fountains : They are moftly what wc call Under- ground, which makes them very cool and rcfrcfliing in the hot XW-ather, and their way of adorning and furnifhing them gives * them a very cool Look too. The Windows of their Palaces have not Safhes, to Aide up or down, but all the parts of them are made to open, by way of Cafement, from bottom to top : Neither do they ufe Wainfcot, their Rooms being gene- rally either painted in Frefco, or plain Plaifter-Walls cover'd over with Pictures, or hung with Tapeftry, Velvet, or Damask, as in England, and other Places. But what looks the moft odd- ly to a Stranger, is, to fee a Room hung perhaps with Velvet or the richeft Arras, a Velvet Bed perfectly cmbofs'd with high- rais'd Gold-Embroidery, the Chairs, Cabinets, Glaflcs, and all the reft of the Furniture fuitable, fetout in the moft coftly man- ner i the Porphyry Tables fupported by Carv'd-work in various Figures, richly gilt ; and after all this, a plain Brick Floor. For though it may be true, as they fay, that Marble would be too cold in Winter, and Boards inconvenient in Summer, becaufe fubjeft to cracking or breeding of Vermin, one would think they might have fome fine fort of Tile, of a better Shape and Confiftence too than thole plain Bricks arc. Their Furniture is fomctimes fancied after an extraordinary manner, fome of the Ornaments havuig been defign'd by the beft Mailers, \Carlo Maratti, and others of the firft rate] as the Frames of their Chairs, Tables, Stands, and Ornaments about their Beds and elfewhere. They have indeed fometimes lb much of the grand Cnjlo in them, or to fpeak more plainly, are fo incumber'd with Finery, that they arc much fitter to be look'd at than us'd. It is the general Curtom to have Curtains to draw over the Doors ; and that not only in the Palaces, but in the meaner Houfes too. The ufual Gratuity to the Servant who fhcws a Palace, is a Te- \f\"S''^^flone*. The Nobility there feem to have judg'd pcrfeftly well in fettling thefe Gratuities : Strangers are thereby at a cer- tainty what they have to do ; and as in cafe a large Gratuity were expected, That might deter fome from making fuch frequent Vifits to the Palaces as they could wifh j fo, were the Servants order'd to take nothing at all, People could not for fliame have come Rome; 19^ come often. But, a Gratuity being fix'd, and that fo moderate, makes the matter eafy to every body. The Churches of Rome are many of them as fine, as Painting, Sculpture, Gilding, and Ornaments of all forts of Marble, can make them. Of them, fomc are c-^\\c>iBaJilkhe, as that of S. 'Peter, S. John Laterally and S. Maria Maggiore within the City, and S. 'Paolo without it. Thefe and other principal Churches of ancient Foundation, in Rome and elfewherc, have obtain'd the Name oiBafiliche, for that fome of them were turn- ed from Palaces or Courts of Judicature into Churches j and others were built in the fame form, with a long Nave, and a Half-round at the upper end, call'd Tribuna, from the Tribunals which were held in that part. For thefe BafiUca were not only Royal Palaces in the ftrifteft Senfe, but Palaces of the principal Nobility, and fome of them Courts of Juftice, where the Cen- tumviri fate. That of S. John Lateran was the Palace of one Lateranus a Senator in Nero's time, who was put to death by that Emperor, and his Eftate confifcated. The Gallantry and'- invincible Courage of this Lateranus were fuch, as Ej)i6fetus- thought worthy his notice ; as we learn from Arrian. The Situation of the Churches Eaft and Weft is not at all ob- fcrv'd in Romey or in other parts of Italy, as I have already mcn- tion'd. For the Shape, there is generally a regard had to the Form of the Crofs ; even in fuch where the Body of the Church.^ is round, and ftands all under a Cupola, there is a Wing extend- ed on each hand, which makes a Side-Chapel, or Altar, and be- twixt thefe, another part carried on beyond the Circle for the great Altar. The great Altar is not always quite at the end of the Church, tho' for the moft part it is. In S. Peter's Church. it is direftly under the Cupola, and in fome others, cfpecially the oldeft Churches, it is at fome diftancc from the end, with a Pa- vilion over it, fupported by four Pillars, according to what is faid to be the Manner of the Greek Churches in the Eaft: For thofe Greeks that arc in Italy do not always regard the Strucl:urc ©f their Churches, to have them made after the Manner of their own Country, any more than they do other Matters relating to tiicm,- for they are pretty much Romanized. la all the Churches here, and wherever elfe the Romifh Religion is exer- cifed, there are, befides the great Altar^ Icveral lefler ones car- ried. 100 Rome. ncd oil all along on each fide the Church, fometimcs mclofed in Ciupcls, fomctimes not : fo that it is not uncommon to fee half a dozen or more Mallcs going on at once. Thcfe Chapels and Side-Altars generally belong to particular Families, and are sdorned after fuch a manner, as if their Owners were endeavour- ing tofliew which fhould outdo the other in Magnihccnce, and Richnefs of Ornament. This is ftill feen more, where the Cha- pel or Altar is dedicated to any favourite modern Saint ; for there care is taken to have fomc Relique of that Saint preferv'd in fome rich Repofitory, with one Lamp at lead continually burning by it ; fometimcs fcvcral, according to the Credit of the Saint. Over the Altar there is always a piece of Painting or Sculpture, generally cncompafs'd with Ornaments of Archi- tedure. The whole Entablature is of Marble, inlaid very often in the Frieze, with Lapis Lazuli, and other beautiful Stoncs» fupported by Pillars of Oriental Alabafier, Giallo Antico, 'Por- phyry, Verd Antique, and forty other forts, which I can neither remember, nor were it fit to trouble the Reader with enu- merating. The old Churches, built in the time of Conjfantine, or foon after, tho' not extraordinary for the reft of their Architedure, have fome of the nobleft and fineft Pillars that can be feen i which were taken from the Heathen Temples, &c. particularly the Church of S. Agnes, and S. Lorenzo without the Walls, the Church of S. Maria Trajle'vere, and that of the Carthujiansj which ftands within the Ruins of T>iocleJian's Baths, and was built with part of its Materials. Among the reft of which, there are four of the vafteft Granite Pillars that are in Rome. The modern Churches, and thofe efpecially which are dedi- cated to modern Saints, are adorn'd moft. That of S. Catharine of Siena is a perfed Cabinet for Neatnefs, nothing is to be feen in it, but Carv'd-Work and Stucco '2^\\x., Marble and Painting. They have a piece of good Husbandry, whereby they make a little Marble go a great way, only by Incruftation, as they call it, or cementing thin Flakes of it upon the Wall they would cover. The fame Method was in ufc among the Ancients, as we have feen in Ibmc old Ruins. They cut it fomctimes to not above a quarter of an hich thicknefs, and difpofc the Veins fo, as to anfvvcr one another, as the Joiners here do in their Cabinets and Rom e; zor and other Works of Wallnut-Trec, which they call Fineering. Thus, tho' there be a great deal of Labour in the W'orkmanfhip, a fmall quantity (comparatively) fpreads over a whole Church; and has the fame Effect to the Eye, as if the Wall were all of folid Marble. And it is neceflary they fhould husband it thus in their fineft W^orks, where they employ fuch forts of Marble as are not the Growth oi Italy, and are fcarce (if at all) now to be had, except in the Ruins of old Temples, Palaces, Baths, Sepul- chres, and other antique Monuments -, for the adorning of which, Z_yEg)'pt and India were ranfack'd, while the Romans were Matters of the World. Another Art they have, of imitating Marble fo, that the Difference is hardly to be perceived. It is done with what they call Scagliola, which is not unlike what I have feen here in England, called Spar, and by fomc. Mater Metallorum, which is found in the Lead-Mines. With this Material, burnt and powder'd, and made into a Pafte or Plai- fter, and fo mixt up with proper Colours, they imitate Marbie to a great Nicety J and with this Mixture, in leveral Variations, fome of the Churches are incrufled, and make much the fame appearance as if they were incrufled with real Marble. I fup- pofe our Imitators of Marble Tables in England u^c the like Ma- terials. I have mentioned fomewhat elfewhere of the TabelU Votiv£ tVotlve Pidures.] With thefe the Churches at Rome do very much abound. The Walls of fome Chapels are intirely cover'd with them, from top to bottom. Thefe generally are Chapels dedicated to fuch Saint as happened to be call'd upon together with the Blefl'ed Virgin in the Diftrcfs from which the Votaries were deliver'd, whether of Sickncls, Fire, Shipwreck, Aflault, Overturn of a Coach, or any other Accident. The Blejfed Virgin is plac'd in the Clouds, and at fome difl:ance from her, the other tutelar Saint is added. Below, is rcorefented the Cir- cumftancc the Party was in j and the Rcprefentation is generally as difmal as the Difafter. At the bottom is added P. G. R. 'Per Gratia Rice'vuta ["For Mercy receiv'd."] Where, in cafe of a bodily Diforder, any particular part was affecled, the Figure of that Part is often fix'd up in Silver, Ivory, or Mother of Pearl. This they certainly learnt from the ancient Heathens^ whole manner it was to dedicate Ex Voto in their Temples, Legs, D d Arms, 201 Rome. Arms, and other Parts, in Stone, upon like Occafions. Several of thefe wc have feen in Repofitories of Antiquities ; particular- ly a Foot I remember, and part of a Leg, with a Snake twifted about the Ancle, in the numerous CoUedion of Father Bonanni^ a learned jefuit at Rome. This might either have been oifer- ed upon deliverance from fuch a Difafter as the Votum feems to reprcfcnt, or might be taken fimply as a Vow to ci^failapiuSy whofe Symbol was a Serpent, as it was likewife of Hygieia, And that they us'd to hang up Votive Ti£itires too in their Tem- ples, we find by Ttbullus : Nunc T>ea, mmcfuccurre mihi, nampoffe mederi 'PiBa docet Templis mult a Tabella itiis. L. i. El. 3.' Help, Goddcfs, help me, for thy Pow'r to heal The painted Vows, hung round thy Temple, tell. Some Paflages in Juvenal and Terjius do fully prove the fame. I wifh the modern Devotees would fpare one thing in their Churches, which their miftaken Zeal puts there for Ornament, I mean a Plate of Silver, (or fometimes perhaps bafcr Metal) which we fee often fix'd, upon the Picture, about the Head of the Bleffed ^/r^/«, intended for a Glory, but looks juft like a Horfe-fhoe ; Sometimes the Plate is in the form of a Crown, and it is always attended with another of the fame fort, but fmallcr, about the Head of the Chrift. Another way of drelling up the Madonna, much of the fame Tafte, but I think rather more rarely ufcd, is flicking a huge Amber Necklace upon the Pifture, acrofs the Neck 5 and covering the painted Drapery with a real one of fome rich Stuff, Ipreadover like an Apron. Tis well when this Zeal lights upon a bad Picture 5 as (to fpeak truth) it generally does ; but, to my great Vexation, I have fometimes feen a good one thus maul'd and difguis'd. They have upon Ibmc of the Statues of their Saints, a circular Plate, ftuck horizontally above their Head, which has not fo ill an Effeft. This they have borrow'd from the Ancients, who us'd to fix fuch Plates on the top of their Idols to prevent Birds from lighting on, or from fouling them ; but With tkc Moderns, it is intended for a Glory ; as particularly . tliat Rome. 203 that upon a fine Bufl: of our Saviour, clone by Michael A'ngclo, in white Marble j which is at the Church of S. Agnes without the Walls. They have no Pews in their Churches, and 'tis a great advantage to the profped within them, that they have not : For by this means, at the entrance, you have one clear uninter- rupted view, quite to the further end. The People kneel upon the bare Marble ; only Ladies of the firft Qiiality, ?.nd Ambaf- fadors Ladies, have Cufhions. They feldom have Preaching on a Sunday, except it be fome extraordinary Feftival. Lent is the great time for that per- formance ; and then they fill the middle of the Church with Benches, and ftretch a Canopy of Canvas quite over Preacher and People, a little higher than the Pulpit, partly for warmth, and partly to afllft the Voice of the Preacher, more than what the Canopy of the Pulpit alone could do. Their Pulpits are fome of them perfect Galleries, or indeed Stages ; on which many of them ^h their Parts extremely well, and perfuade their Audience that they are in very good carncft themfelves. Their Adion is what we fhould be apt to call overdone, but 'tis what the people there arc us'd to, and cxpedl: 5 and the Preachers find their Account in it. They'll walk fome- times from one end of the Pulpit to the other, in much com- motion, their Eyes perfeftly fparkling, and Tears flafhing in them, to produce the fame Effed in their Audience, as well knowing Horaces Rule ; 'Ji vis meflere, dolendnm eft Trimum ipft tibi. He only makes me fad who fhcws the way. And firft is fad himfelf. ^ Roscommon. The lownefs of the Parapet, or Desk-part of the Pulpit, fhews their Adion to the more advantage : They'll fometimes lean over, ftrip their Sleeve up to the Elbow, and fhake their Fift at the people ; fometimes fnatch a little Crucifix, which is al- ways ready within reach, and ihakc that at them, and make Ap- peals to it, and Expoftulations between it and the People. They preach all without book 5 but 1 have fometimes feen a Prompter D d 2 with 104 Rome. S. P e t e r's. with the Notes behind the Preacher. The Men don't feem ncarfo much to regard their being uncover'd in the Churches as we do here, except it be while a Mafs is celebrating, to which they pay the profoundcft Reverence. At Sermons we frequently fee them cover'd, as the Preacher always is, with his Beretta [Cap] unlefs when his Adion occafionally requires his taking it off. They allow Strangers more Liberty in their Churches at Rome, and, indeed, all over Italy, than in Flanders, and other Roman-Q-ix\\o\\i:k. Countries. They won't difcourage thoic whofe chief Bufmefs in their Country, generally fpeaking, is Curiofity, which they well know brings a good deal of Money among them. Bcfides, that the English, who they are fcnfible Ipend more freely than any other People, being for the moft part what they call Hereticks, fhould not by any Incivilities be fowr'd into a further diflike of their Religion. At the Exaltation of the Hoft, when they are all upon their Knees, many of them thumping their Breafts and killing the Ground, and fo remaining in that loweft Inclination, till the Exaltation is over, 'tis fuffi- cient for Strangers to incline then- Bodies a little, without diredt- ly kneeling down -, and if they omit even that, they ftand indeed the Gaze of the Congregation, as diftinguifliing themfelves for Hereticks, but receive no perfonal Affront. They will perhaps have it faidof them, Non fono Chrijtiani, [They are not Chri- ftians ; ] for, they account none to be fuch, but thofe that are direftly of their own Communion. S. Peter's. To what I have faid in general of the Churches in Rame^ I ought to add Ibmewhat more particular; but am perfcftly at a lofs where to begin, or how to avoid being too long upon fo copious a Subjedl. S. Teter's alone has had Volumes written upon it in Folio. By the Prints of that noble Temple, frequent among us, it is very well feen after what manner it is built : and that, for its general form, our S. Tauh agrees pretty much with it. It were to be wifh'd that our's had fuch an Approach as , tliat has, than which nothing can be more grand or magnificent. As tiic Church Hands near the place where was once the Cirque of Nero, fo fome will have it that the Obelisk now in the . middle of the circular Theatre which is form'd by that (lately Colonnade, is creded in the fame place where it flood in Neroi Rome. S. Pete r's. 105 Nero's time; but that cannot be; for, befidcs that (if the Maps of old Rome are true) the very Topography contradids it, it is likcwifc cxprcHly faid in one of the hifcriptions, that it is • priori fede avulfus — " Remov'd from its former Site." This Obelisk is faid to have been the firft that was brought from /E-gypt to Rome by the order of Julius Cafar : It was firft plac'd in the Circus Maximus, and dedicated (as appears by one of the In- fcriptions) to Auguftus and Tiberius Cafars ; afterwards remov'd by Nero to his Circus on the Vatican Mount. It was plac'd where it is by order of Sixtus ^lintus, under the diredlion of the Cavalier Font ana. It is fupported by four Lions of Copper, couching on the four corners of the Pedeftal, or Bafis, which bears them. The two great Fountains, in the fame Area, are a noble and moll pleafant Ornament, and do fenfibly refrefh the Air of the Place in the hot Weather. The Baluftrade over the Colonnade is fill'd quite round with Statues, many of them very good : Statues are likewife con- tinued over the Portico, which, going up from the Colonnade in a ftrait line on each hand, forms a fquare Court immediately before the Afcent into the Church. There is one Objediou I think may be made to the Colonnade ; that it feems croudcd with thofe vaft Pillars which ftand fo thick : But fome give this rcafon for its having been built fo -, that it was intended to fup- port another Building which was to have gone round abovc^ and Ihould have been for the Conclave. The Church itfelf was built by fevcral Popes, and the form of it changed by feveral Architcfts. Bramante made the firft Dcfign ; his Model is now in the ^/^/V^» Palace 5 it is lb large that we went into feveral parts of it. After his Death, the Dcfign was altcr'd by Raphael Urbin, Sangallo, and others : It was brought to the form of the Greek Crols by Mich. Angela, prolong'd afterwards to the form of the Latin Crofs by the Cavalier Font ana. Carlo Maderna, and others, who ftill con- tinued the Order of Mich. Angela. The Facade, and noble Portico, which we crofs immediately before we enter the Church, was made by Carlo Maderna. Nothing can be more beauti- ful of the kind than this Portico ; 'tis extended along the whole breadth of the Cliurch in the manner of a Gallery, At each end to6 Rome. S. P e t e r's. •eiui of ittlierc is a Loggietta, adorn'd, as ihc Portico itfclf is, with 'ti curious Marble Pavement, and Cicling oiStncco'sjAt. The Colon- 7?ft-Gallery, witli its Lobbies, doth lb far refembic this Portico, with its Loggkfta's, that one may imagine the Architeft of that to have taken his hint from this. In a further Space, beyond the LtOggiettds-, arc two Statues on horfeback, larger than the Life. That at one end was done by Cavalier Bernini:, in white Marble ; 'Tis Covfiantme the Great looking up towards a Crofs, which is form'd in Bas-Pvclicf upon the fide of the Portico, accompanied witli the famous hifcription, In hoc figno vinces. " In this " Sign thou (lialt overcome." The other was then only in iS'/'wfrt?, in order to be executed in Marble by a young Florentine, [_^u- ,gnjlino^\\\\o by what we faw in the Stucco, gave great profped of a noble Performance. It reprefents Charles the Great. I fhouki have been counted by the Rowans as great a Heretick in Architedurc, as in Religion, had I' there fpoke AH I thought, of the Front of that admirable Fabrick. The Parts are certainly very beautiful, grand and noble, the Pillars being nine foot in diameter ; but the \\' hole is terminated by a ftrait Line at top, which (with- out any prejudice in favour of my own Country) I cannot think has lb good an cffcft as the agreeable variety, which is given by the Turrets at each end, and the Pediment riling in the middle, of the front of S. Tatth. The Prints indeed give us a Pro- Ipeft of two Side-Cupola's (together with the great one in the middle) which appear in the Draught to break the Line ; but, ni the Fabrick itfelf, are not leen at all as you approach it, being in reality caft back at a good diftance from the end of it, fo that the fight of them isi ntercepted, and quite hid from the Eye, by the afore-mention'd ftrait Line of the top of the Portico, which terminates the whole View, without any other Break, than what the Statues upon it give. Bernini feeni'd of opinion, that fomething was wanting, and would have eredled a Tower at each corner, of which my Lord barker has the Deiign : But fo heavy he defign'd it, and ( I think ) had begun to make it, that 'twas thought it would have ruin'd the Portico ; and Ibme ftick not to fay, that That was his intent out of envy to the former Architefl; ; fo he was oblig'd to defift ; and fome of the Pillars intended for that, were employed in the Porticoes of the two Twin-Churches in the Tiazza del Topolo. They have 3 a Rome. S. P e t e r ' s, 207 a Story, that with fome of his Siipcrftructurcs he did occafiona Crack in the Cupola ; which himiclf, by another Stroke of his Envy, was the accidental occafion of having difcover'd to the Pope, ihinocentX.^ who till that time w^as ignorant of it. The Story I heard is thus : At the four Angles, under the great Cu- pola, arc the Statues of four Saints, made by as many fevcral Sculptors, Bernini made one 5 another is that of S. Veronica, with the Handkerchief, on which the Form of our Saviour's Countenance was faid to have been imprinted : This was made by Francefco Mochi; the Handkerchief and Drapery are very light, and fecm as if moved by the Air. When the Statues were fet up, the Pope came to fee them, and feveral Sculptors along with him : When they came to that of S. Veronica, Bernmi had a mind to carp a little, and looking at the Drapery, ask'd. Whence comes all this Wind ? Mochi furpriz'd him with a fud- dcn Anfwer, " From the Crack you made in the Cupola." • Bernini, ftruck with this unexpcftcd Reply, and fcai'ing the con- fequences of the Difcovery, ftaid not to take leave, but imme- diately fled, and got into France^ where he continued for fome time ; till at laft he found means, thro' 'Donna Olympia, Sifter- in-Law, and great Favourite of his Holinefs, to make his peace. He made her his Friend, by prefenting her with a Model in Sil- ver of the fine Fountain which he propos'd to make, and at his Return did execute, in the '■piazza Navona. I fhall hereafter take more particular notii.:- or this Fountain. The Reader will pardon this Digrefll on : Iwas mfenfiblyled into it. The upper end of this Church ftands to the Weft. There is no Separation cf that part for a ( hoir, as is in S. T aid's, and other Cathedrals with us. A Sidc-chapel is appropriated to that pur- pofe there j fo that at firft entrance there is a fpacious -open View continued quite to the further end of the Church 5 where, aloft, agaiuft the Wall, is plac'd the Chair of S. 'Peter, fupported by the four Dodors of the Latin Church *, and a Glory above, with * s. jcrom, Angels, &c. all of Copper, a moll: coftly and noble Ornament. |' '"^^If^^"^^ But the real Chair of S. Teter they pretend is within that which i\ Gregory." you fee. The Pavilion of the great Altar, whi^h ftands under the Cupola, is in my mind the fincft Ornament in the whole Church i there is fomething in it fo uiKommoB; and at once 2.08 ' R O M E^ S. P E T E R'S." lb magnificent. It is the Work of Bernini : 'Tis fupported by four wreatii'd Pillars of Corinthian Brafs, which was taken by Urban VIII. from off the Portico of the Tantheon ; they are adorned with Fcftoons and Foliage of the fame Metal, difpos'd in a moft agreeable manner. There are little Angels of a fine Dcfign, playing among the Vines, and Ibme Bees (in allufion to the Barberini Arms) are feen upon the Leaves about them. Thcfe Pillars are by much the moft finely adorn'd of any I ever law. Whether the hint might be taken from Raphael's Car- tone of the beautiful Gate of the Temple, 1 know not 5 but they put me much in mind of the Pillars in that. ":v:y^«//Vo (not Porphyry as fomc call it,) the pierc'd part is in this Form (/^i > there is another hard by of the fame fort ; and our Antiquary aflur'd us they were no other than old Chairs belonging to Caracalla's Baths, of which there were 600 in number j and that we Pro- teftants took occafion to make that Story from an old wooden Chair, which is near the other, where he faid the new Popes are now feated, when they come to take poIIeHion of S. Johi Lateran, foon after their Eleclion. A little further he fhew'd us a Porphyry Pillar, on which they fay the Cock perch'd, by whofe crowing S. ^eter was put in mind of his having denied his Mafter^ There is a Brafs Cock on the Top of it i and he told us the common People do believe, that That is the very fame individual Cock, turn'd into Brafs. Beyond that, they fhcw a Porphyry Stone, on which the Soldiers cait Lots for our Saviour's Garment. Near thefe was a perfect Tree of a Crofs carried by a Pil- grim ex Voto, or for Penance, from Bohemia to Rome, the year before we faw it there : I believe I faw the fame Crofs, and him who drag'd it thither, upon the Road in Lombardy. See Page 29. There is an Altar of Marble, on which 'tis faid an Unbe- lieving Prieft prefuming to confecrate the Hoft, the Wafer flipt from between his Fingers, forc'd its way thro' the Marble Ta- ble, and fluck to one of the little Pillars underneath, and there left its Imprefllon in the Colour of Blood. At a Corner of the fame Cloyfter they fhew the Porphvry Sepulchre oi S. Helena ; a very large one, with a Cover like that of S. Conjiantia in the Temple oi Bacchus. It has Bajfo Relievo s on it, Men on horfcback, and other Ornaments. Before the ufual [tho' not principal] Entrance into this Church, ftands the higheft Obelisk in Rome, all infcrib'd with Hicroglyphicks, which arc faid (but with what Certainty 1 know not) to fignify thePraifes of King Ramefes. It was confccrared to the Sun in '^yEgypt, and brought to Rome from Alexandria, F f - where 2i8 Rome. ScalaSanta. where it had laui fome time, by Conftatitine the Great, Tre- centormn Remignm impofitiis Nm'i mirandcC vaftltatis : " Upon " a Vcllcl of a wonderful vail Size, with tiirec luindrcd Oars." It was then plac'd in the Circus Maximus^ out of whole Ruins it was dug in leveral Pieces, was join'd together, and let up wiiere it is by the C:\vaVic]: Fontana, at the Command o'^ Sixtus^iintus, to whom modern Rome owes a great Share of its Glory. Near adjoining is the Baptiftery of Co?ifiantine, antique, being the Place where they fay that Emperor was baptiz'd by S. Syl- I'efter : It was part of the old Later an Palace ; 'tis now finely adorn'd with Paintings, which are chiefly the Story of Conjian- tine: two \i^ Carlo Marat inFreico^ others above, within the Cupola which is over the Font, by his Mafter Andrea Sacchi, in Oil ; fome by the Cavalier Camaffei, and other hands, finely perform'd. Befides the ufual Subjeds, as the Apparition of the Crofs, the Battle and Triumph, ^c. there is one, where feveral Bifhops of thofe times prefer'd Accufations againft one another to Conjiantine, who would not look into any of them, but order'd them all to be burnt before him. The Font- part of the Baptiftery is furrounded by eight large Pillars of Porphyry, with as many of white Marble over them, which fupport the Cupola above. Here we faw a Jew bap- tis'd. Near this Church is a large Hofpital, and a Palace i both built by Sixtus Oitintus : The lafl he did not live to finifh, at leafl not to inhabit. scaia Santa. A little further is the Scala Santa -, they fay that thcfe are the very Stairs our Saviour went up, to be examined before 'Pontius Tilate s and that they were brought from Ti/ate's Pa- lace at jferufalem by Helena the Emprefs, Mother of Conjian- tine. They are of Marble, and have a fort of Chanel, which fcems to have been cut ail-along the Top of each, parallel to x\xz Edge, for it does not feem fuch as could have been made purely by wearing. None are to go up thefe Stairs, but upon their Knees, faying a Tater Nofter, and Ave Maria at every Step i for the doing of which, they obtain a Remillioii of a third Part of their Sins. We faw a Pilgrim creeping up them, and cxercifmg the Difcipline on his Back all the way. The Rome. S. Maria Maggiore! II9 The Form of Begging in the Neighbourhood of thefe Stairs is, that you'll give them a Bajoc*, and they'll go up the Sca/a*'^""'f,'^"» B c make aeottt Santa tor you. 6^. Engiini. At the Top of the Stairs is a Crucifixion, the Blejfed Virgin and S. John, painted by Cigoli } and beyond that is the SanEiinn Sanctorum, a Rcpofitory of Reliques. Parallel to the Afcent of thefe holy Stairs, are two pair more on each fide, which lead up into a Portico or Gallery, common to them all. Thcfc were made by Sixtus V. for the Convcniency of the Devout, and' there is a handfome Front of the T)oric Order to the whole. The Church of S. Maria Maggiore \ had the place of itsFoun-s. Mam dation pointed out by a Miracle, according to the Story they Magg-oic. tell, which is this 5 That two rich Devotees, who had a mindt^^-"-GrM/«r. to build a Church, to the Honour of the Blejfed Virgin, be- faufi -lis tht' fought Her to figiaify to them her Plcafure where (he would have'^'^^f/? "/"'^r it built. It was revealed to them that they fhould build it in f ,JJ.';"7^" fuch Place as they fhould find next Morning cover'd with Snow. tU virgm This accordingly they found on the Efqtiiline Mount the fifth ^^"'^• day of Atigtift •■, fo to work they went, and built the Church there : and annually on that day, they ftill gather Leaves of fome fmall white Flowers, and ftrew them on the Top of the Church, and about it, in memory of the miraculous Appoint- ment. This Church is very noble and magnificent, as well as ancient. The back. Front, which makes much the greateft Appearance, is modern : The Portico at the principal Entrance is ancient, fupported by antique Pillars, and is adornd with old Mofaic Work. The Pillars which are on each fide the great Nave are antique 1:; there are fcveral fmallcr, which fupport Tabernacles, + ^*"?^''* towards the upper End of the Church; thefe are antique like-{^'i.f,;/w» wife, of beautiful Colours, and rare kinds of Marble i ^■ixxt'i- the Tempu of cularly the Cipolino, lb called, from the Rcfcmblancc of its Veins •'''"° Regma. to an Onion cut acrofs : And another, tho' only black and white, fingularly priz'd, for the cxquifite Delicacy of thefe Colours (if fuch they may be call'd) and the Beauty of the Veins. This fort is called the Nero e Biancho degli Antichi, [the Black and White of the Ancients], and properly, for there is no Qiiarry of it now known ; nor indeed is there any of the Stone in Rcme, that I cou'd hear of, bcfides what is here, and in the Church of F f i S. 210 Rome. S. Maria M a g g i o r e. S. Cacilia, which I fhall after take notice of. It is mcntion'd by 'Pliny, as what was very fcarcc in his Time. This Stone is * Their vnlm valued at I 5 Piftoles per Palm *. Four Pillars of Porphyry fup- is aocHt nine , _, , 1,-1 * 1 t-i " rv.i ^^;,jj£ngi,n,. port the Tabernacle ot the great Altar. There arc two Pil- lars of Marmo di Tort a Santa, a beautiful reddifh brown, with tranfparcnt Veins. They have no other Name for this Marble, it being very fcarce, and call it fo bccaufc the Frame of the Torta Santa [holy Gate] at St. Teter's Church is of the fame fort. We law a vaft Pillar of the fame kind, unpoliflVd, of fifteen Foot and a half diameter ; it lay near the Tiber, and very likely in the fame Place where it was iirft landed, for it wou'd be no fmall piece of work to remove it. At one end is engraved, Imp. Caf. T^omitiani Aug. Germanici, N. III. This no doubt was intended with others for fome great Work of that Emperor, which poffibly might be prevented by his Death. Indeed among all the Remains of Antiquity fcarce any thing I think is more entertaining than the Columns, of an incredible Variety of Marbles, (if by that general Name we may call all thofe beautiful Stones,) which were colleded from all parts of the Univcrfe, when th.c Roman 'Em^hc was in its full eft Extent Jind grcatcfl. Glory. Of thcfc Columns, bcfidcs fuch as have been erected in later Fabricks, many others are kept in the Palaces, without being put to any other uic, than fometimcs to fupport Eufts at the Top of them, and often without any thing at all, as being eftccm'd a fufficicnt Sight themfclves ; as particularly at the Palazzo Bracciano. The two great Ornaments of this Church, arc the magnifi- cent Chapels of Sixtns V. and Pauhis V. on each fide the Church, oppofite to each other. Thefc Chapels perfectly match one another, and are both furprifingly fine. The Cielings are ^i Stucco 2\\x; and the Walls pcrfcdly cover'd over with Marble, Sculpture and Painting. In each of them is the Monument and Statue of the Founder of the Chapel on one fide of it, and on the oppofite fide is that of the Patron or Benefadlor of the Foun- der. The Founder in each is kneeling, and the Patron is fitting, and under each of the Patrons is exprefled that it isgrati animi Moninnentum [a Monument of a grateful Miiid.] The Pa- tron of Sixtns V. was Pins V. who had made him Bilhop of Rome. S. MariaMaggiore. 2ir S. Agatha, and a Cardinal. The Patron of Tauliis V. was Clement VIll; under his Monument is wrote, dementi VIII. P.M. Junius y. P.M. Rom.gr at i ayiimi Monumentiim pofitit. And under his own is, TaulusV. 'p. M. mortis memoTj Vive-us fibipofuit. " TaulY. Pope, being mindful of Death, creeled " this for himfclf in his Life-time." Befides the like Infcrip- tion of Gratitude under that of Tius, as there is under Cle- ment's, there are large Accounts inlcrib'd in Marble of fome of the Adions of the former, as a temporal Prince, with Baflb- Rclievo's reprcfenting them. I tranfciib'd one of the Inlcrip- tions. Selinum Turcariim Tyrannum, multis infolentem vi&oriis, ingenti par at a claffe, Cyptoque expugnata, Chriftianis extrema minitantem, Pius V. Foedere cum Philippo II. Hifp. Rege ac Rep. Vcn. inito, M. Ant. Columnam Tontificia clajjipraficiens, ad ^ch.\x\zd:is Infulas, hoftibiis 30000 c/sjis, loooo in potejiatem redaBis, triremibus i%o captis, 90 demerjis, iscooCbriJlianis a fervitute liberatis, precibus & armis devicit. The Subftance of it is, that Tius V. in alliance with Thilip the Second of Spain, and the Rcpublick of Venice, having made M. Ant. Colonna Admiral of his Fleet, with his Prayers and Arms, gave a great Overthrow to the Turks (who were grown inffelent with their Vidorics, having taken Cyprus, and threatening utter Ruin to the Chriftians) at the Illands Corzolari, in which engagement were 30000 of them kill'd, loooomadc Prifoners, 180 Gallies taken, and 90 funk, and 15000 Chri- ftians delivered from Slavery. Another is upon his ailiiling Charles the Ninth of France againft his rebellious Subjcfts, and rcfettling him in the Throne. The Statue of Sixtus V. tho' it be not of the higheft Taftc of Sculpture, is very good *, and the Face muft have been like him : * -Th the for m the very Marble-Countenance one may read the Charader ^^'i'.f/-'Y^^^^^, of the Man ; the Subtlety of the Fox, and the Courage of the Lion, la.'jo. and an Air of Pleafantry mix'd with a good deal of Dc%n. In the middle of this Chapel is an Altar moft richly adorn'd with Statues of Metal gilt; and under it is kept what they lay is the Manger, where our Saviour was laid: whence it is commonly called the Chapel of the Trafipe. Ill Z12 Rome. S. MariaMaggiore. In the Chapel of tardus, the chief Altar is at the further end, fronting the Entrance, and is as fine as can well be imagined. It has four Pillars of oriental Jafper fluted, with Pedcftals of that and Agate ; and Ornaments, difpers'd in other parts, of feve- ral forts of precious Stones. Befides the Marble Statues, and Ballb Relievo's, the Decorations of gilt Metal and other curious and rich Materials, there arc fine Paintings of Guido Reni, Ca- valier Arpnas, and other Mailers i and a Madonna, painted by S. Luke, in that curious Tafte of Painting which has been already fpoken of. Before the Back-front of this Church ftands a Granite Obe- lisk, which anciently flood (with another anfwering to it) before the Entrance to the Sepulchre of Augufttis Cafar ; as is intima- ted in one of the Infcriptions. Chrifti Dei in aternum viven- tis cimabula latiffime colo, qui mortni fepulchro Augufti trijiis fervtebam. " I who with Sorrow ferved at the Sepulchre of " the dead Auguftus, now mort joyfully pay Homage to the " Cradle of Chrift God living for ever." There is another Inlcription pretty remarkable; but as it re- lates to a Legend in the Church de Ara Coeli, without which it is fcarce intelligible, I fhall forbear fetting it down till I come thither. This Obelisk was erefted by order of Sixttts V. and from it is a Profpeft of the Strada Felice, (above mention'd) of above a Mile long that way, flrait as a Line, which he likewife made, and called by his own Name. Before the other Front, is placed a noble Corinthian Pillar, fluted, which was taken from the Temple of Teace : It was the only intire one remaining there. This Pillar was ercdlcd by 'Paul V. and infcrib'd, BeatiJJhna Virgini, ex cujus vifceribus Princcps vere Pacis genitus efl. " To the mofl blcflTed Virgin-, out " of whole Womb He that was truly ^Prince oiPeace was born." iicnry iv's ^ \\xx\c further, goiug towards the Church, called oi Santa Croce inGierufalemme, is aPillar of another kind, one that has nothing to do with Peace :/Tis the Pillar o'i Henry IV. of France, When that Prince embrac'd the i?(?»?^w-Catholick Faith, the ♦ c;:cm.vni.Pope * rcquir'd he fliould ered at Rome in memory of his Con- verfion, a Pillar, with a Crofs on the top, and this Infcrip- tion, In hocjigno vinces ; [under this enlign thouflialt conquer ; ] alluding Rome. Santa Croc e, ^c. 11^ alluding to the Story of Conjlantme, who upon n Vifionof fuch a Crofs, with thefe Words inlcribed, turned Chrijliariy andvan- quifhed his Enemies. Henry IV. confentcd, but made the Pillar exadly in the form of a Cannon ; on the top of which he placed a fmali Crofs, and caufed the Infcription \__In hoc figno 'v incest to be written round the Body of the Pillar or Cannon. Sir P. Rycaut, in the Life oi Clement IX. tells us, "That " the French King having allow'd this Pope to dcmoliflithePil- " lar which was ere£ted at Rome in the time of Alexander VII. " for a Memorial of the Banilhment of the Corfi, the Pope in " like manner gave Licence to the French to take away and de- " molifli the Crofs which was crefted at Rome over againlt the " Church of ^.Anthony., in the imxzoi Clemeyit VIII. in Me- " morial of the Converfion of Henry IV. to the Roman Faith." He muft mean the fame that we have been fpeaking of, which (lands in the place he dcfcribes : But there it ftill ftands ; and it ieems ftrange to mc, that Clement IX. fhould think the French would ufe the Liberty he gave them to take it down ; and more ftrange indeed that Clement VIII. fhould allow it to be fet up, in the form we fee it. The Church of Santa Croce in Gierufulemme is more remark- smta Croce. able for its Antiquity than any extraordinary Beauty. It was built, as they fay, by Conftantine, and confecratcd by S. Sylvefter in the Year 319. It has a good deal of old Mofaic, and fome few good Paintings. The Tribuna is painted by Tintiiriccio, the Story of S. Helena's finding the Crofs at Jerufalem : in me- mory of which, the Church takes its Name. They fhew a Statue of her, which is very excellent from the Head downwards, but that part, I believe, was made long before fhe was born, (for it has the appearance of the true antique,) and the Head long after Hie was dead. Here they pretend to have Icvcral Rcliqucs relating to our Saviour's Crucifixion: The Dice, the Spunge, and the Superlcription. The Church of S. Bibiana is little and ordinary enough : 'Tis s. Bibi^m. vifited by Strangers for the fake of an admirable Statue of that Saint in white Marble by Bernini, which is eftecm'd by fome the chief of all his Works. Below the Altar, is a Vaie of oriental Alabafter, wherein is kept the Body of that Saint. It was brought from the MaufoUiim of Aiignjiiis. Above the. Pillars, ilz^ Rome. G r a n d G i e s u. Filkirs, onc^ich fide the Church, is painted her Hiftory ui Frcfco, by Tiefro da Cortona, and Auguftino Ciampelli. They Ihew the Pillar to which i"he was tied, when icourg'd to death. -•"■ Whoever has a mind to know all the Virtues of Holy JFatery may read them at large in this Church, in a Tablet hung againft the Wall. To tell the Reader that the Churches of the Jefiiits are magnificently fine, and exccfllvely rich, is very unneccflary ; and to attempt a Dcicription of them, in a manner endlefs. The Beauty of the Altars is perfeftly furprifing, both for Mate- rials and Workmanfhip. There is none ftrikes you more than Grand Giefu. That of S. Ignatius in the Grand Giefn, where is a Statue of that Saint in Silver feven foot high ; the Ornaments of his Ha- bit are fet thick with Jewels. This is fhewn only on great Days. At other times 'tis hid by a good Picture, which clofes the Nich it ftands in. The Architedure about the Altar is nobly defign'd, and exactly executed 5 the Pillars on each fide are fluted with Lapis Lazuli ; the Capitals and Pedeftals are of gilt Metal, and narrow Ribs of the fame Metal go along between the Flu- tings. On the outfides of thefe, are noble hiflorical and em- blematical Sculptures in white Marble, laltiffimo Relievo'} full * Done by le as big as the Life*. This is cfteem'd one of the fineft Altars in ^'^°^- Rome. Tis hard indeed to fay which is the fineft of all, fomc excelling in one particular, fome in another. ,s. Ignatius. That of the Beato Gonzaga in the Church of S. Ignatius at the 7?omenichino. But what makes the nobleft Ap- pearance, is the Chapel of S. Terefa. The Statue of that Saint dying away, and the Angel comforting her, in white Marble, is efteem'd one of the principal Works of Bernini : There is a wonderful Exprcflion in the Countenance of the Saint ; the Angel I did not fo much admire. The Vault of this Chapel is finely painted by Baciccio-, the Subjed is a Glory, with Angels. s. Philippo The Church of S. Thilippo Neri, commonly called la Chiefa Keri. Ntiova, the new Church, is a fine Structure, and has fome ex- cellent Paintings; the Cieling, Cupola, and Tribuna, all by Tietro da Cortona. The Bleffed Virgin crown'd, by the Cavalier* Arpinas. Two Pieces by Barocci ; two by Lazaro Baldi, oval ; three of Rubens ■■, not his beft Manner. A Madonna by Carlo Alar at, his beft Manner; an admirable Pidure, botji for Defign and Harmony of Colours. ^. Nicola To- The Church of S. Nicola Tolentino is a new Church too, and lentino. moft cxquilitely ?dorn'd with Marble, Gilding, and Painting by Lazaro Baldi, Ciro Ferri, and other eminent Matters, with a noble Piece of Sculpture at the great Altar, by Algardi. , ,, The Church of S. Andrea della Valle is a large and noble Valle. Strudure. The Cupola, painted by the Cavalier LanfranCy confidering it in all its Qiialities, the Grandeur of the Dcfign, the Preedom of the Execution, with the Beauty and Harmony of Colouring, is a furprifing Performance, and may, I think, at Icall compare with any other whatever. The Story is the Ajfnmption of the Bleffed Virgin, with the Apoftlcs round the Bottom; and above are Angels playing on mufical Inflruments. In the Angles below it, are the four Evangelifts, by 'Domenichino, well worthy to accompany the other. The Tribune of the great Altar, reprclentinL- the Story of S. Andrevi', in feveral Com- partimcnts, 1% ^nc\\' ^^xntcdhy Carlo Cignani, and the Cavalier Calabrefe, Difciplc cr Lanfranc, In Rome. S. Andrea della Valle< iiy In an Apartment adjoining to this Church, on JVednefdays Exord-m. in the Afternoon, is perform'd the Ceremony of Exorciim, and they never fail of Perfons poflels'd with Devils for them to caft out. Some of them might poilibly be poor Creatures trou- bled with real Fits, Hyftcrick, or fuch like ; but others there were that, I believe, could be poflefs'd or not, juft as they pleas'd. A fturdy Beggar, that kept his Station in a place we often pafs'd by, was once under Exorciim when we came to fee the Ceremony. Whether the Fellow were confcious that we knew him, and that we had fome check upon his Devil and put him out of his play, I can't tell ; but he acted his part in a very clum- fy and aukward manner, manifeftly afFcded. Some She-Da:- moniacks the holy Father found difficulty enough to deal with; their Agitations and Convulfions were very ftrong, and moft of their Fits came upon them juft as they were going under the Prieft's hands. Violent fliaking of the Head, gogling of the Eyes, and foaming at the Mouth, were the chief Symptoms ; thefc were foUow'd with fwelling of the Breaft, and fudden Springs and Bounces. When the Holy Water was fprinkled, the Dxmon was moft outrageous i and then a little ftroaking and foothing was neccflary to abate the Fury. When the Dxmon was tired, the poor Tjthonijfa lay a while as in a Trance, and then all was well. As we came our, the Exorcift told us that fomctimes he had fetch'd Iron Nails out of fome of them, Cofiliinghificuro [thus long for certain] marking out the Length of his Finger. I was once ask'd by one in Rome, Whether we had any Miracles in England? I told him no: Neither had we any 1)iemoniacks. And, to fpeak the truth, I believe they have no more than we : I am afraid the fame may be faid of their Miracles too; But, the People muft be amufcd every way, and if there were no ^amoniacks, there would be no Exorcifms. The Church of S. Katbarina di Siena is fo exadly iinifh'd in^. Kath.di every Part with Marble, Gilding, and their other ullial Orna- ^''^"^•- mcnts, that it looks like a perfect Cabinet. The Paintings on the Cieling are by Louigi Garzi. In this Church we faw a Nun (a noble Lady) receive \\z^ K:m habiteH. Habit. She came into the Church drefs'd as rich as hands cou'd make her. Her Hair was perfectly powder'd with jewels, and her Clothes fet thick with them. She was plac'd in a Chair G g z before 2.z8 'Rome. S. K a t h. d i S i e n a. before the great Altar, while an Oration was fpoken in praife of the Monaftick State, applauding her Choice of it, and magnifying her pious Rcfolution to abandon the Vanities of the World, that l"he might become a Spoufe o'iChrift. When that was over, fhe advanc'd to the Bifhop, [fince Cardinal Contiy Brother to the Pope, who was eledlcd that Morning]. She came with all the Appearance of Complacency and Satisfaftion that it was poiVible for her to pat on -, yet we cou'd not but fancy her Smiles a little forc'd. Some Ladies, her Relations, then began to rifle her of all her Finery, and difengag'd with fome diffi- culty the jewels from her plaited Locks ; off went her rich Brocades, and ftript flie was of all to her Boddice. Then the Bifhop cut off a Lock of her Hair, which was put with the jewels into a large Silver Bafon. Then they went to drefllng her, which was much fooner perform'd than the Undrcfling. A little Cap of white Crape, and a plain Garment of the fame, were foon put on ■-, a Crown of Thorns was fct on her Head, *s D mi i ^ Lilly, the Enfign of the * Order fhe was enter'd into, put into one hand, and a Crucifix into the other. Thus fhe went (poor Lady) attended with Tapers and Anthems, in the Bloom of Youth, into dole Durance, there to fpend her Days, and grow old, within Stone Walls and h'on Grates. She was a hand- fome frefh-colour'd young Lady, and feem'd of a Conftitution that Nature had meant for another way of Life. How far this Lady might be confenting to fo great a Change of Life, fhe bcft knows i for a Confcntis neceflary : but, with rcfped to fome, 1 have been well aflur'd, that 'tis fuch a Con- fcnt, as People at Sea give that their Goods may be thrown overboard in a Storm ; and a perfeft Storm it is that thefe poor Creatures undergo, when fair Means and fine florid Stories won't do : 'Tis reprefentcd to them fuch a Scandal and Shame to refuie, thty are fo teas'd and perplex'd, not only by their own Relations but by the Priefts and AbbelVes, and others of the Pvciigious, that they are at laft reduced to the Condition of the Lady, who was fo clofely purfu'd by her Lover, that at laft flic faid Ihe muft marry him to be rid of him, I was told by a grave Perfon in Rome, one of their own Religion, and in Orders too, That as he was once talking at the Grate with a Nun of his Acquaintance, another of them, who Rome. S. Agostino. II9 who was detain'd there contrary to her Inclinations, came, in a perfcftly frantick manner, into the '^Parlatorio *, tearing her * ^^ ""'f Hair, and making hideous Complaints, and crying, Tregate^"^^°i^^„ ^io per mi' fori defperata. " Pray to God for me, I am in whence our " Dcfpair." 'Tis certainly a moft grievous Hardfhip upon thcfe ^'"'''""'" poor Creatures, (whether menaced or decoy 'd into Profefilon, at an Age they cannot judge what they are doing) to keep them there afterwards contrary to their Inclination, and perhaps the violent ImpuUcs of a Conflitution, which may become more rebellious through the Notion of a perpetual Rcftraint. I faw a young Creature take the Habit at Milan^ whofe el- der Sifter had been a Probationer in the fame Convent ; and when the time came for her Profefilon, truly flie wou'd not be profefs'd : All the means her Relations or the Priefts cou'd ufe, were in vain 5 then they remov'd her from that Convent to the Female Capuchins^ to try whether the Severity of that Or- der wou'd reconcile her to the other, which was niore eafy : but, 'twas all one to her, they were all Nuns, and a Nun fhe wou'd not be -, and bravely flood it out to the laft. When they found they cou'd do no good with her, they fairly difmifs'd her ; and foon after fhe got a good Husband. She was there to attend the Ceremony of her Sifter's Admiftion into the Convent i drefs'd out in her Wedding-Clothes, and richly bedeck'd with Jewels i and fcem'd very well fatisfy'd to find hcrt'elf on the right Side of the Grate. The Door of the Convent was flung open upon this Occa- fion 5 whither the fair Prifoners came by turns to Ice the Com- pany, and talk with their Friends at the Entrance. There was a handfome Entertainment of Chocolate and Frcfco Liquors, and very free Converfation. They bade me be fure when I rcturn'd into England^ to perfuade fome of my Relations or Acquaintance to come and be amongft them. The poor Girls feem'd overjoy 'd at a little Converfc with Strangers ; divefled now of all artificial Rcfcrve, which is of no ufe in a Cloyftcr. In the Church of S. Agollino is a fine Pifturc oi Raphael, re- s. Agoftino. prefenting the Prophet Ifaiak, and tv/o Angels. It is painted in a grand Style, and, as we were told, in Emulation of M/cB. Arigclo, after he had drawn the large Head in the Ticcolo Far- nefcj in Raphaels, abfeucc i which I fiiall take notice of, when I ijo ' Rome. S. O n u p h r i o. I come to fpcak of that Palace. There aix fcveral other very good Paintings and Sculptures. The Church itfelf is of the plainer fort. s. Oiiuplirio. Wc went fometimes to vifit the Hermits of S. Onuphrio^ from whofc Convent is a fine Profpecl: of the City 5 as there is too of Frefcati, Mount Algido, and other parts of the Country. From hence we had the entertaining Sight of the Girandola, and other Fire-works on the Caftle of S. Angela, upon Occa- Hon of the Pope's Acccilion. They fay that this S. Oniiphrio was Son to a Terfan King, was cxpob'd in a Foref^, and fuckled by a Deer i and that every Year, on the twelfth of June, the Deer of the Neighbourhood come and pay homage to his Shrine. In their Church is a Statue of the Saint with his Hair and Beard reaching as low as *ih^vefee>} hisKuccs*. Thcrc is likewife Z'^/Ttf's Monument, with a good $!ir Biiiiiii Ritratto of him. fenn^^mucif' ^'"^ ^^'^ Garden of thefe Hermits wc faw great numbers of the afterthefxmeLucertole., Or fhuiing Flics, frisking about, and dancing by their manner. ^^^^^ Light. Somc havc wrongly aflerted that thefe Creatures fhine only while they fly ; as if their Light proceeded entirely from their Motion : 'Tis no fuch thing : I once faw a little Boy that had patch'd his Face with them ; he came into the CofFee-Houfe, and there they flione as they ftuck on his Face, notwithftand- ing the Light of the Candles. I afterwards crufh'd one of them, and the Icparated parts all fhonc. Madonna del In the Madomia del 'Portico, called likewife the Madonna in Campitelli, a pretty Church, built by Bernini, is a Chapel of the Family Altieri, a great Family in Rome, wiiere are Mo- numents of a Husband and Wife oppofite to each other ; the only Infcription on hers is Umbra [Shadow], on his iV/^/7 [Nothing]. Bufls are on their refpeftive Monuments. At a confiderable Height above the great Altar "is a Crofs of oriental Alabaftcr, fix'd in the Wall by way of Window j for it tranfmitsthcLight, and thatin a glorious manner ; this Crofs was cut out of part of an old Pillar that was taken from Li- njia's Portico. Where this Church ftands they iay there was formerly a Temple of Apollo, and that it was built with part of the Materials. The Portico. Rome. M o x t e d i P i e t a. 2 j I The Chapel of the Monte di Tieta is all incruftcd \vith ^!o"f= ^' Marble, and has fome fine modem Sculptures. A Acs.dChri/1 *'Theongmai in Mezo Relievo, by T>omenico Guidi. Tobias finning a Wri Model of thu, ting for the Payment of Money, by Monf. le Grot *. Jofe^h iS'rJ;^' giving Corn to his Brethren. fine one) is mto There arc Niches for four Statues, which they were at work '" Ei»g,and. upon when we were there ; Fides, Spes, Charitas, Eleemofyna : [Faith, Hope, Charity, Alms] : The painted Models were then in the Niches. Charity was exprefs'd by a Woman accom- panied with fome Boys, whom fhe was embracing; Alms, by a Woman giving fomething to Boys, that accompanied her. The former has the Emblem of a flaming Heart. The Ornaments of this Chapel are fuited with an Allufion to the Bufinefs of the Place, to which the Chapel belongs, which is a great Bank for Money ; and in which there is an Office for the lending of Money out upon Pledge's, and particularly fmall Sums to poor People : If the Sum exceed not fifty Crowns, they may have it without Intereft for twenty Months ; if it do exceed that, it is liable to Intereft, of only 2 per Cent. And there is a way whereby People avoid this too, by taking out the Money they want in feveral Sums of fifty Crowns upon different Pledges, and perhaps at a little diftance of time between the one and the other : The Pledge is to be the Value of one Third more than the Sum borrowed. The Church of S. Tudens and 'Ptidentiana was once (as they s Pudens, fay) the Palace of the former, a Senator of Rome, converted c?"^- to the Faith by S. Teter, who alfo lodged with him ; and tiicre is in the Church an Infcription to that Purpofe : Hac c^yEdes frimum Hofpitium S. Petri. " This Edifice was S. Teter's firft " Lodtring." In the fine Chapel of Duke Gaeta-ao in this Church, r.re fome beautiful Pillars oiGiallo Antico, taken from 'Dioclefian^ Baths ; and of Granitella Orientale, called alfo Tcdlculofa, from little Specks in it, which they fancy- to have fome Refemblance to Lice. Here are fine Mofaics in Compartiments, from Defigns of Zuccharo, the Story of S. 'Pudentiana, and her Sifter Trax- edes, gathering up the Blood of tiie Martyrs. And other Stories. There is a Well in the Church, in which, they fay, arc 2jl Rome. S. PietroinVincoli. are the Bones of 3000 Martyrs ^ v/hich probably gave occafion to an Infcription in this Church, which promifcs to fuch as pay their Devotions here, an Indulgence »for 3 000 Years, and a Rcrnilllon of a third part of their Sins. 5 Piotroin Jhc Church of S. Tietro in Vincoli-, is now near the Ruins Viacoh. ^^ ^j^^ Baths of Titus, and is faid to have been once a Part of them. The moft remarkable thing in this Church is the noble Monument oi Julius II. the Defign oi Mich. Angela, with the maicftick Statue oi Mofes m the middle of it, more than twice as big as the Life ; (which is pretty well known by the Prints :) Perform'd by that great Sculptor's own hand, and efteenVd equal to the generality of the Antique. The Figures on each fide the Mofes, and fine Grotefque Bajfo Relievoes on the Pe- dertals, are laid to be by Mich. Angela himfelf too. One of thole Figures is intended to rcprefent the contemplative, the o- thcr the aftive Life ; tho' both fhcw Contemplation enough. The one looks downwards, the other looks upwards, both in a thoughtful manner. The later, as I remember, they call'd the AQivci tho' I think I fhould not have done lb. Thefe two Figures are laid by others to have been only defign'd by Mich. A^igelo, and cut by Rafaelle da Monte Ltipo. A full Account of this Monument is to be leen in Condivi's Life of Mich. Angela. They keep in this Church the Chain wherewith, they tell you, S. 'Peter was bound j it is expos'd and kifs'd with great Devotion by the People on the Fcall Day of S. Teter, in Vin- coli, which is the firft of Aiiguft, N. S. 5. Martino. The Church of S. Martina a i Monti is part of the Baths of Trajan. Under it are fome Pieces of the old Mofaic Floor, and other Remains of the ancient Building. The Pillars of the Cliurch are antique, taken from the Baths : The Capitals feem modern; x.\\Q.Ot6.zx.\% Corinthian. In this Church they fay the Chrijtians had the firft free Exercife of their Religion in Ro7ne. Here are fome fine Landskapes in Frefco of Gafpar 'Ponffin. Dell* Anima. In the Sacrifty of the Church call'd dell' Anima is a fine Pidurc, an Altar-Piece, by Giulio Romano, wherein S. John prefents S. Rocco to the B. Virgin and Chriji -, S. Mark is below with the Lion i Angels above : Archicedurc and fmali Figures I in Rome. S.Martina, 233 in the back Ground. Tis all highly fininVd, but fomcwhat hard : The Hair is all done with the Point of the Pencil : The Flefh is high colour'd, a little bricky j the Shadows are grown blackifh. "The Lion having been damag'd, was reftor'd by Ci2r/is> Alarat. The deling of the Sacrifty is painted by Romanelli, the Story of the AJfimiption, in the manner of Gnido. In the Church arc two Monuments by Fiatn'mgo ; in one of them the Countenances and Bodies of the Angels are moil ad- mirable. A Prieft belonging to this Chiuxh is efteem'd to make the bcft optick dalles in Rome. We were enquiring for him one time in the Sacrifty, to fpeak to him upon the Affair of dalles, and were told that he \vas going to celebrate Mais, but that he was a bupn huomo [a good Man] and wou'd foon difpatch it. To that we fhou d not need to wait long : and he anlwer'd the Character they gave him. I think 'tis fixid of Cardinal TVoolfey, that his Expe- ditious Difpatch of Mallcs, was his firlt Recommendation to King Henry the Vlllth's Favour. The Church of S. Martina in the Campo Vaccino, belongings. Martina. to the Painters, was built by Tietro da Corto7ja. There is a Pidure of Raphael, rcprcfcnting S. Lttke painting the Blejfed Virgin, and himfclf ftanding behind S. Luke's Back. Whoever fees the Madonnas .tlicy aicribe to S. Luke, will believe he had more need [as a Painter] to have Hood behind Raphael's Back. There is a Grotta, under the Church, ofvery good Architecture; fine antique Pillars, and lucruftation-s of M-arble in the Pannels. There is a Baffo Relievo in Terra Cotta^ of Algardi, a dead Chrijl, &c. and other Figures of Martyrs, by the fame Hand. The Tomb of S. Martina 'is very fine, oi Gi alio Orient ale. In the Academy of S. Lnke, adjoining, are CoUedions of Calls ^'^^''""7 "/ from Traja7is Pillars ; Bnjfo Relie'vo's in Terra Cotta, and Mo-'^' ^"^*^- dels or Defigns, in Painting and Drawing, of fuch as are to be admitted Members of the Academy, or contend for the Prizes, which are only honorary, being Medals, not worth above half a Guinea a-piece j they are given by the Pope ; the Motto is. Virtus ipfa Jibi premium. "Virtue is itlelf its own Reward." There were two Performances, for Admittance, particularly pret- ty in their kind: One was a Limning, done Iby ;(8^ ..rfif/t^/? > H h . it 2^4 Rome. S. A g n e s. it is a Girl witli a Pigeon. The different Tinds of White, in the Pigeon, in the Linen, and in the other white Dra- pery, were very judicioufly oblcrv'd, and the whole finely executed. The other was a fmall Model in white Wax, Baffo Relievo ; it was done by Ermenigildus Hamerani, that cuts the Dies for the Pope's Medals : Itrcprefcnts S. Lnke'ihcw- ing a Picture of the B. Virgin, fupported by Angels. There are likcwifc in the Fr^wf/:) Academy fomided in Rome ' by Louis XIV. Colkaions of Cafts in Gieffo from the Pillars, and fcveral of the beft Statues in GiefJ^o, for the young People to defign :fter, which they may do better there (by reafon of the more commodious Situation, and better Lights) than from the original Statues themfelves. ' The Reader will pardon my non-obfervance of the Order of Topography, as to the Places I fpeak of: ■ — . I take them as they were fhewn me, and as I find them in my Journal : — - So, from the Church laft mention'd, I proceed to that of S. s. Agnes. Agnes, without the Tort a Tta. 1 there tranfcrib'd an In- fcription on a Tomb-Stone, for the Oddncfs of the Latin and ^Writing. DEPOSITA SVSANNA IN PACE DIE X-J^II KALENDAS NOBENBRES CONSVLATy_ANICI BASSI ET FLI FYLIPPI VVCC QVAE BIXIT ANNIS PL M XXV JECIT CUM MARITO ANNVS P M SEPTE EXVPERANTIVS MARITUS SE VIVO VXORI DVLCISSIME SIBI ET POSTE RISQVE SVIS HOC TVMVLVM FECIT. At the Bottom, there x^-^---^--^"2^~^^ p is this Figure. ^-^mavWAvnT^^ ^ You go down about forty eight Marble Steps to this Church ; it is very old, and as to the Bulk of the Strudure not at all fine, but it has four Porphyry Pillars fupporting the Tabernacle over the great Altar, which arc the fineft that can be fccn. TJiere I arc R O M E. S. A G N E S.^ 1 j 5 arc feveral other antique Pillars in the Church, of icvcral forts, two of them are white Marble fluted, cxadly wrought and very- curious. There are two Candlcfticks antique, of Marble, fine Foliac^e, Figures, and other Ornaments. As I remember they were about 4 or 5 Foot high. In a little Chapel belonging to this Church is a moft ad- mirable Buft in white Marble, of our Saviour, Aonchy Michael Angela. I was furpriz'd to fee fo much Delicacy, Mildnels and Sweetnefs proceed from his rapid Chifel. The lower part of the Face put me in mind of the frequent Reprefcntations 1 had fcen of Marcus AureUus j and who knows whether the Sculptor might not defignedly take a hint from the Rcprcfen- tation of a Perfon who had in his Charadcr what the Artift hada mindto exprcfs, and has expreflcd, in this Countenance. Hard by '\sz Rotonda, call'd by the common People, and by r^;«;./« 0/ moft Antiquaries, the Temple oi Bacchus, and I think indeed ^*"^'^^" it carries the Marks of having been done at a time of good Architecture, cfpecially in the Make and Pofition of a double Circle of Corinthian Pillars which fupport the Cupola. But, Ficaroni wou'd allow it to be no other than the Maufolaum of CoJiftantia, Daughter of Conjlantine ; and that thofe who call it the Temple o( Bacchus are induced thereto only by the Mofaic Ornaments of Vintages, which are fcen on the Roof. Among the reft, is a Cart driven along, full of Grapes j the Wheels of the Cart are folid, without Spokes, like a Mill- ftonc. The fame fort is to be fcen on the Antonine Pillar, and in feveral old Ba([o Relievo's. In fome parts where the Mo- faic is deftroyed, the Plafter is painted, in imitation thereof. On one ftdc is a huge Sarcophagus of Porphyry, in which the Body of Coyiftantia, they fay, was dcpofitcd. It is hewn out of one folid Piece ; the Length 8 Foot 5 the Breadth 5 Foot and half, and the Height 4 Foot 2 Inches. The Cover, about 2 Foot thick, is of one folid Piece likewifc. This Sarcophagus is adorn'd with Grapes too, and Boys in Baffo Relievo-, (a moft difficult and laborious Work in foharda Stone) but of no very elegant Tafte. There arc Prints of it extant. The Church of S. horenzOy without the Walls, is very old 55. Lorenzo, faid to have been built in Confiantitie's time. The Pillars of it were taken from a Temple of Mars, and other places, for they H h 2 are 1^6 Rome. S. L o r e n z o. arc of Icvcral forts. The Pillars in the Nave are lonk. Granite, large and fine. In the upper part, beyond the great Altar, which is after the Greek Fafhion Ifolata, [_i. e. detach'd from any Wall] arc Corinthian Pillars of a white Marble, which they call Ta- lonata, from Ibmc Spots in it like thofe in Peacocks Feathers: The Capitals of thefc arc admirably wrought. A fine Sarco- There is ill this Church an old Sarcophagus with feme fine Baflb- phagus. Relievo's rcprefenting the Ceremonies of an ancient Wedding. It is not in that circumftance of time as the Aldobrandine, v/hichi fhall fpeak of hereafter. In this they are joining Hands, with Juno 'Fromtba between them, who lays her Hands on their Shoulders as putting them together. This is cngrav'd by Bar- toli, and is to be feen in the Admiranda, page 58 ; to which I refer the Reader for the Front-part. There are Ballb-Rclievos too at each end, which he has not cngrav'd . At one end are three Miniftra [ Attendants ; ] one has fomewhat in her Hand, which Signior Ficaroni called a 'Patera [a fort of Difh uied in Sacri- fices,] it is of a larger proportion than thofe are ufually rcprefent- cd ; the other two have Caskets or Boxes, which ieem as for »ASow, Unguents. Kt xhz othtx: cnA \sx.\\zTorcaFaeciinditatis'^, and iniitfuhfef!. one with a Knife in hand to kill it. Behind thcle arc two other Figures, one with a Garland, and the other with a Basket of Flowers and Fruits. On the Front of the Coj?erchio, or Cover, (the other part is gone) is a Rcprefentation of the Birth and Death of Man. The Birth rcprcfented by a Chariot and Horfcs mounting, as if going up a Hill ; Death, by their going down : and the Horfes Knees bent, as falling t. In the middle ftands 'Jupiter, on his right hand Juno, on his left Troferpina, ac- cording to Signior Ficaroni, for their Injignia or Symbols are damaged, but Teem to be a Peacock and Cfr^^r//-C- Beyond thefe are, Cafior {landing, with his Horfe, on one fide, and Tolhix with his on the other. I have been the more particular in the Defcription of this Sarcophagus, it being efteem'd one of the moft curious for this Ibrt of Antiquity. There is in this Church another Sarcophagus^ of Greek Marble, all adorn'd w ith Grapes, young Bacchus' s. Birds, e Ufn 'Patrum, who fccms to be the firft Objeclor to Jujtin upon this Head, rc- prcfents it as the fame ; and charges the Father with a falfc Read- ing. Ficaroni fhew'd it to us for the fame ; Nardinus, Borri- chius, and others who have written of the Antiquities of Rome, fcem to take it for granted that 'tis the fame. Valefitis too and Dr. Grabe conclude that Jtijiin was impos'd upon in the Infcrip- tion. Others are of opinion, that he could not be impos'd upon or miftaken in a thing he rcprcfents as Co notorious. That the Inlcriptions Semoni Sanco were frequent, but that this, which Juftin complains of, is reprefented as the only one of the forr. That the Statue of Simon Magus [for he fpeaks of a Statue as well as of an Infcription] was ereded by publick Authority, whereas this Semoni Sanco was of private Donation, fc. of Sex. Tompeius. That Simon Magus (according to Irenaus') was reprefented in the Statue as z. Jupiter -, Semo Sancus always as Hercules. That the Statue oi Simon Magus (according to Theo- dorit) was of Brafs, but that the Statue which this Infcription did belong to, muft have been of Stone. All the Reafon indeed given for that is, becaufe the Bafis, whereon the Infcription is made, is of Stone. From whence they conclude, that the Statue itfelf, tho' not now found, was of Stone too. But that Argument is riot at all conclufivc ; for, the Bafes are generally of Stone, even where the Statue is of* Brafs. It docs not certainly appear to me, whether this was an Infcription upon the Pedcflal of a Statue or not. It is upon a Stone which is now part of a Wall, and ap- pears flat and plain, like the reft of the Stones of the fame Wall, and * vide Defenf. S. Augiiji'mi aJverfus Joan. Pherefo't. [fc. Mr. Le Clerc] fiid ro he writ by Dr. Jenk'ni, late Mafter of S. Job. Cumab. Reeies's Notes on the Apology ot Ju/lm Martyr. And Richardfon's Vrdeliiones 'EcchftafticA. Among thefe, I liclieVe, is to be found the Sum of what has been urged on this fide the Queflion. Whit Monf. Tilhmont fays of the Matter is much to the fame purpofe, with what is advinc'd in the Books here cited. 110 Rome. S. C^ c i l i T A. and ranging with tliem. juft by the other end of this Ifland they ihew the Foundations of the Temple of 'Jupiter Lycaonius. The place where they are, was formerly part of the larger Illand, but is now a little liland by itfelf. Here was likewife once in this Ifland a Temple oi F annus, but its Remains are now un- der V^'^ater. s. chryfo-o- In the Church of S. Cbryfogonus, of the Carmelites, lies an ""'' EngUpj Carduial * buried in the beginning of the thirteenth Century. They have here two moft noble Pillars of Torpbjry, and one thing very particular, an Image of S. Maria de Carmine drefs'd out in a perfect modern Hoop-Petticoat, with a world of other Ornaments, which they had hung upon the Statue a- gainft one of her Holidays, She was mightily fet out with Can- dles, and had great Adoration paid to her. They fhew'd us a large Machine to carry the Image, with its Appurtenances, in procefllon. s. Cecilia. The Church of S. C a cilia-, according to the Account there given, is that which was once her Houfe. At the Entrance, * J conii not there is buried another Englij}} Cardinal *, with fome fpecial fmi any F.i- jiQ^^^^v about liis Monimicnt i as follows. lij-nanie of thi-fe CarJi- Artibus ifte Tater famofhs .in omnibus Adam Theologus jitTmnns^ Cardiquenalis erat. ;;,;,.; Anglia qtia patriam, &c. - , ' . The {que) fo ingenioufly put in the middle of Cardinalis, I have cndeavour'd to match in the Tranllation. Fam'd Father Adam, learn'd to a high degree, A top Divine, Cardzxxdanal was he: ; .r England his Country Under the great Altar is a fine Statue in Marble of S. Caci- ■iia lying dead, done by Stephatto Maderno, in the lame polition her IBody was found (they arc fure it v/as her's) in the Catacombs of S. Sebaftian ; from whence it was brought hither. The Ta- bernacle of the Altar is fupportcd by four moft beautiful Pillars of Nero e Biancho de i Antichi, the black and white of the Ancients, which I before gave fome Account of, infpcakingof 3 " the Rome. S. S a b i n aj 241 the Church of S. Maria Maggiore. That part in which tiie great Altar ftands, is feparated by a femicircular Bahiftradc from the reft of the Church, and curioufly pav'd with fcvcral forts of Marble, oriental and others. A hundred Lamps, as fo many Vejial Fires, are continually burning before the Body of the Virgin Martyr. They fhew'd us the Place where fhe was mar-^ tyr'd, which was then her Bagnio. Her Martyrdom, and other parts of her Story, are there painted by Guido in his firft Manner. They began with an endeavour toftrangle her, but that would not take effcd : then they cut off her Head, and after three Days Ihe died, but not till Ihc lirft had fcen her Houfe confecra- ted by S. Urban, then Pope, into a Church. In the Church of S. France fco della Ripa is an Altar-piece 5. Francefco pamtcd by Hanibal Caracci, a dead Chrift, the BlejfedVirginy^^ '^ ^'P*" S. Magdalen and S. Francis, and two little Angels attending. . , There is a moft beautiful Sorrow in the B. Virgin, and S. Mag- dalen.' — r-^The two littfe Angels are fhewingthe Wounds, one in the Hand, the other m the Foot of tUc Chrijl. There is a moft admirable Expreflion of fedate Sorrow in onej and the other is crying outright j the Tears which trickle down his Cheeks are in perfed Motion, and you plainly read the Paftioii in every Feature. Here is a very good Figure in Marble of S. Lu- dovico dying, by Bernini. They (hew S. Francis's Chamber above -, it is now a Repofitory for Relicks. _ There is a pretty Contrivance of a Friar of that Convent to turn at once ail the Cafes of Relicks to fhcw them ; fo as that you may fee firft one .;-;;■ u; fide of them, then the other. The Church of S. Sabina, on Mount A'ventine, was once 5. Sabina. a Temple of "Diana, built by Servius Tullius. We faw there twenty-two antique Pillars, Corinthian, fluted, and were told that two more are conceal'd by fome Wall that has been built up there. They fhew a very large piece of Touch- ftone, which the Devil (they fay) threw at S. Dominic one Night as he was praying in this Church : It fell upon the Pavement, and broke one of the Stones, which is now fix'd up in a Wall of the Church. There is an odd fort of a Picture of that Saint in a Deliquium, and the B. Virgin milking her Breaft upon him to recover him. In one part of it is a Dog with a lighted Torch in his Mouth j a Rcprefentation which is often repeated, 1 i particu- 14^ Rome. S. Maria inAventino. particularly in the Churches of the Tiotninicans, and (as I have fomcwhere read) is an Emblem of the Inquifition, or has fome allufion to it : and this is the more probable, bccaufe the Inqui- fition is wholly in the hands of the 'Dom/n/cans. There is a fine Chapel in this Church, the Altar-piece painted by Moran- di •■, and another above, where S. 'Dominic and two other Saints us'd to watch whole Nights in divine Converfations : In divinis Colloquiis vigiles pemoBarunt, as fays the Infcription. Thefe two Chapels are both incruftcd with Marble. There is another, which was the Chamber of Tins V. now a Chapel, with moft curious Fret-work on the Cicling, and Paintings by 'Domenico Muratore. They fhew ftill fome old Baflb-Relievo's which did belong to the ancient Temple, reprcfcnting the taking of Crocodiles. 5. Maria in In the Church of S. Maria in Aventino is a Sarcophagus y Aventino. Mincrva and the Deceafed in the middle , on each hand the Nine Mufes ; at one end Homer, at the other 'Pythagoras^ at leaft Signior i^jV/zrtfw/ will fuppofe the later to be him, bccaufe there is extant a Greek Medal, wherein Tythagoras is in the fame Attitude, pointing to a Sphere ; and he will likewife fup- pofe what is here pointed at to have been a Sphere — part is now broke off ^ but that which remains feem'd to me to fhew quite a different fhape. Ficaroni, who loves to carp at Pa. Mont- faucon, falls foul on him for faying in his T>iarinm Italicum, that there arc Chriftian Figures among thefe. J-. vicenio In the Church of S. Vicenzo and Anaftafw-, without the «H£mones ['tis enough, indeed, to fright the Devil] morbofque curari, A£fafecnndi Concilii Niceni tejtantur. -As this is exprcflcd, it is not clear whether the Mi- racle is alcribed to the Saint or to the Picture 5 I fhould apply it to the Saint, but the People there apply it to the Pidture j per- haps it may be equally true of either. , Here Rome. S. P a u l: 145 Here they have the Head of Zeno, Captain of ten thoufand two hundred and three Martyrs, who were all buried in a Church jufl: by 5 'tis that of S. Maria de Scald Call. It takes that Name s. Maria dc from a Vifion of S. Bernard, who as he was here celebrating ^'^^^ "^"' Mafs for the Dead, fell into an Extafy, and faw a Ladder [like Jacob's] by which the Angels convey'd, from Purgatory to Pa- radife, the Souls of the above-mention'd Martyrs. And this very Story is the Subject of the Altar-piece. I fhould not trouble the Reader, or indeed myfelf, with fuch Stories as thefe, but that I think they fhew a good deal of the Genius, and Temper of the People, one part of whom is fo rea- dy to impofe, and the other to receive them. There is a fine Tribuna, wrought in Mofaic, after the Defign oi Cav alter Arpinas : It reprelents Clement YIW-, Cardinal ^Z- dobrandini, S. Zeno, and others ; the B. Virgin above. Under this Church is an opening into the Catacombs : The PafTage goes under ground, tirlt to S. Tatil's, and thence to the Catacombs of S. Sebajtian, not Icfs than five Miles, as they lay. Juft by, is the place where they tell you S. 'P^/// was martyr'd, and there they have built a pretty little Church, dedicated to him. Within it arc three Fountains, which according to them were miraculoufly made, by fo many feveral Leaps the Head took, after it was cut off. The Water of thefe Fountains cures all Difeafes. One would wonder what Occafion they have there for Doctors. Thefe three Fountains are adorn'd with fix Pillars of Niimidian Marble, with other handfome Architedure of the fame ; and a Bull of S. 'Paul at each. Two Pillars of black Torphyry, and two of red, adorn one of the Altars, which is there -, and four of Alabaftro fiorito, the other. Here is a fine Pidure of Guido, the Martyrdom of S. Teter. The Bajilica of S. Tatil is a very large old Church : in which s- Paul. BaTi- are eighty Marble Pillars, antique, taken from the Moles Adri- ana, Corinthian, forty of them fluted 5 there are ten other an- tique Pillars, two of them taken from the Temple of Mars, fifteen foot round, Ionic. The Tabernacle is fupported by four Pillars of Torphyry. The Tribuna is very large, and wrought with old Mofaic. There is an ancient Pillar of whire Marble, not erected, with Sculptures of the Crucifixion, 'P/Y^^t' v/afhing his Hands, &c. Ficaroni here again falls foul on Montfaucon tor I i 2 faying Ara Goeli. Z44 Rome. A r a C o e l l "* ^ faying it is uncertain whether this Sculpture rcprefents fome facred or profane Rites. 5. Maria dc The Church of S. Maria de Ara Cceli is juft by the Capitol, and was once the Temple of Jupiter Feretrius. The ancient Pillars are there ftill. The Afcent to it is by 1 24 Marble Steps. The Occafion of the Name, the Church now iz;oes by, is from an Altar, laid to be built in it while it was an Heathen Temple, by Auguftus Cafar, to the Honour of Chrijl and the B. Virgin. They pretend now to Ibew the very Altar, and juft by is an In- fcription which gives us the whole Hiftory of this extraordinary Matter, taken, as appears, from one of their Legends j which is fuch a topping Stroke of Veracity and Eloquence, I could not forbear tranfcribing it. Hac eft ilia venerab. Ara Cominat ioni fubjugato^ ^ •viBo, Senatuiplacuit nt eum pro 'Deo colere vellent. ^rndens Imp. fe mortalem cognofcens Divinitatis nomen noliiit fibi u fur- fare, ad folius tamen Senatusinftantiam Sibyllam 'Prophet ijfam advocaty fcire volens per ejus oracula ft in mundo major ipfto •unq. naftceretur. Cum igitur in die Nat. 'D"^' Sibylla in loco ifto, qua tunc Camera Imp. ejfet oraret, in meridie Circ. Aureus ap~ paruit circa ftolem, & in medio circuit Virgo pidcherririia puerum ftuuni habens in Brachiis. Tunc Sibylla hac Imperatori ofien- dit, qui tarn infolitam viftonem adtnirans^ audivit vocem di- centem ftbi, H/EC EST ARA COELI. Statimque banc aram conftruxit, ac Chrifto & Matri ejus Thura obtulit. " This is that venerable Altar of Heaven, concerning which,, " the Legend of the Nativity of our Lord\\zs thefe Words. " When O^avius was Emperor, the whole World being van- " quifhcd, and made fubjeci to the Dominion of the Romans, " the Senate refolvcd that they would worfhip him as a God.. " The prudent Emperor, knowing he was mortal, would " not ulurp to himfcif the Name of a Deity j neverthelefs, at " the Inftance of the Senate only, he fends for the Sibyl the " Prophctcfs, defiring to be informed by her Oracles, whether " there ever would in the World be born one greater than " himfelf 5 when therefore, on the Day of our Lord's Nati- " viry, the Sibyl was praying in this place, which was then thq, , " Empe- Rome. AraCoeli. lj.5 " Emperor's Chamber, at mid-day there appeared a Golden " Circle about the Sun, and in the midft of the Circle, a mod " beautiful Virgin having her Son in her Arms. Then the " Sibyl fhew'd thefe things to the Emperor, who wondering at *' fo unufual a Vifion, heard a Voice faying unto him, THIS « IS THE ALTAR OF HEAVEN. And immediately he " built this Altar, and offer 'd Incenfe to Chriji zi\ie 6 Martii. " The Altar, erected by Tafchal II. by divine Infpiration, " and with folemn Rites, in this place, where he drove " away, with precipitation. Devils that fate perching upon " a tall Nut-Tree, in a dreadful manner from thence infefting " the People that pafs'd by, was, by the Authority of Urban VIII. " great Pontiff, tranflatcd into the more elevated place where " you now behold it. Anno'Dom. 1627. the 6th of TV/^rr^." Here are two fine Monuments by Sanfovin, the Foliage and other Ornaments excellent. ]ufl: by the Door, at the entrance into the Church, is a Death in Marble, the Head and Arms, and Drapery, admirably cur, with a Motto, which, as I remember,, is • Nee iftic mortuus: *' Nor, even here, dead." — or fomcwhat to that purpofe. Oxer- it arc Siik- worms i as an Emblem of the llcfurrcdion. ^ The 24S Rome. Capuchins. Opuchais. The Church of the Capuchins is not finely adorned, otherwife than by Ibmc very good Piclurcs. The great Altar-piece is a Madonna, at full length, by Lanfranc ; from which Carlo Marat has CAidently borrowed his favourite and often repeated Defign of the B. Virgin, with the Chrift in her Arms, dcrtroying the Serpent. The moft noted of the reft arc, A S. Francis by T>omenichin, and another by Mtitiano, One railed from the Dead ; by Andrea Sacchi. A Saint wafting Inccnfe to the B. V. by the fame. Saul rcftor'd to fight ; by 'Pietro da Cortona. And, The famous S. Michael, by Gnido, well known by the Prints and Copies which have been made after it. This laft Picture feems liable to an Objeflion, (if an Objeftion may be hinted againft a piece fo celebrated) that tho' the Devil be beaten down and actually chain'd, the Arch-Angel is ftill at him with his Sword ; — and yet with a Countenance altogether ferene and diipallionate, as unwilling to impair his Beauty with a Frown. Sebaftian Concha\\:^s thought otherwife upon the lame Subjecl: : He has given his Angel an Indignation 5 and 'tis the Indignation of an Angel, not of a Man : He feems not mov'd by private PafTion, but with a juft Senfe of his Errand, as obeying the Commands, and vindicating the Honour of the Almighty : His Countenance is beautiful, yet, fuch as belpeaks him to be in earneft : He is driving a Croupe of Devils down the bottomlefs Pit, and purfuing his Blow, having juft got them within the Entrance. The Duke of Richmond has the original Defign in Oil, of the great Pidure ; which was finifhed and intended to be an Altar-piece in fomc Church -, but it was in Signior Concha's own Houlc in the Tiazza Navona v^'hen he fhew'd it us. s. ifidorc. In the Church of S. Ifidore *, belonging to the Irifh Convent • Thhs.Ui- (which is very near that I have been ipeaking of) are fome ex- t'lnln 'of cellent Paintings of Carlo Marat. One intirc Chapel in Frefco ; Hiiibatidmen. and an Altar-piece in another Chapel, in Oil : This is one of the Madonnas lately mention'd, whofe Defign feems borrow 'd Codb.'° '" fi^om Lanfranc -, it is one of the moft genteel, agreeable Pic- ■j- rhs Street tutcs in Rome. y^berethe jj Church of S. Carlo in Corfo f is large and fine : The 6)tiality take ■ r t< j- ^i ti^ Frefco of CicUng IS pauitcd by titacintho Brandt. There is an Altar- the -E-vening ^\^^^ qi^ the Right-hand, by Mola, very good. »« their r omenichin in Frefco, in a great Style, ^'^'i ^'othl"\t%'.'* fine Body of Colour. The Church of S. Gregory, belonging to the Hermits of Ca-s. Gregory, maldoli, has an Oratory belonging to it : where, in the Tri- buna over the Altar, is a Chorus ot Angels, and the Tadre Eterno, moft majeftick ■■, the Countenance, Hair and Beard very K k fine, Z50 Rome. S. GirolamoI fine, and the Drapery flung round in a noble manner ; 'tis by Guido in Frefco. In the Chapel of S. Andrevj^ belonging to this Convent, are two famous Pidurcs of that Saint, fcourg'd before Kero in one, and going to be crucify'd in the other : The former by ^ome- the latter by Guido. The Altar-piece, reprefenting the B. Virgin-, &c. is by Tomerancio. In another Chapel is a S. Gregory kneeling, fupported by Angels, an excellent Performance of //^»/^^/C'<2r/2m; and the Pi£lure of a Madonna-, that was carried in Proceflion by S. Gre- gory in the time of the Plague, when the Angel appeared (as already mention'd) on the Moles Adriana : Over agamft it that Story is painted. In another Chapel, or Hall, is a Pidure, the Story whereof is defcribed there in thefe two Lines. Bis fenos hie Gregorius pafcebat egenos, Angehs c^ decimus tertius accubuit. While Gregory here Twelve hungry poor did feafl. An Angel came, and made the Thirteenth Gueft. iS. Girolamo. Tn the Church of S. Girolamo della Carita is a noted Pidure of T)omenichin, the Communion of St. Jerom % he is receiving the Eucharift juft before his Death. His Body feems perfedly macerated, and worn out with old Age and Penances, fo that the Skin fcarce covers the Bones ; he is fo feeble that he is forc'd to be fupported upon his Knees, and appears as juft go- ing to expire. They tell a Story in Rome relating to this Pidure, which is this ; '\Domenichin, after having been abfent from Rome fome time, coming into this Church, perhaps to take a View of his own celebrated Performance, found a Painter at work copying it ; and looking over him, pointed out fome Particulars, which he told him he thought might be mended. The Copyer, who pollibly might be one of fome Account, not knowing who it was that direded him, rofe up in a fort of Difdain, put the Pencils into his Hand, and defir'd him to mend it himfelf ; ^omenichin, who was remarkable for the Mildncfs of his Tem- per, filcntly accepted the Offer, turn d his Back to the Original, I and Rome. S. Pietro Montorio. 151 and not only mended the Faults he had nam'd, but ran over all the whole Piifturc, with a wonderful Facility and Freedom. The other needed not now be told who T)omenichin was ; nor was he wanting in making fuitablc Acknowledgments for the vSpecimen of his Skill, and the unexpedcd Civility of his Be- ha\iour. This is one of the three Pictures efteem'd the moft capital in Rome^ that are not of Raphael's painting. The two others are, the S. Romoaldo, by Andrea Sacchi, in the Church dedi- cated to that Saint j which is indeed an admirable Pifture j and, the Defccnt from the Crofs, by Daniel da Volterra, in the Church of the French Minims at Trinita del Monte [fPincio.^ The Dcfign of this is very well known by the fevcral Prints that are extant of it. There are very good Prints of the others likewife. The Church of the Madonna della Tace has the Remains ofta Pace, fome admirable Paintings by Raphael i the Prophets, and Sibyls ; but they are very much damaged, and moft of them at fuch a height, that one cannot examine them as one would wifh. There is a Father in the Convent adjoining V'Padre RamelU'\ that is efteem'd to limn * the beft of any body in Rome ; but, hc'^''^''^"'^"' is aged, and his Eyes begin to fail ; fo that his later Works arc '""^'' not fo delicate as thofe he did formerly. The moft capital and moft highly celebrated Pi£lure in alls.PietroMon- the Roman Churches, is the Transfiguration, by Raphael, in the*""**' Church of S. fietro Montorio : The Defign of it is fo well known * by the Prints, particularly that of Sir Nich. 'Dorigny^ that I need foy nothing of it. As to the Execution, tho' fo large a Pidure, 'tis highly finifh'd, and the drawing Part throughout moft admirable. The Colouring fcems to have been chang'd, for the Shadows are become ^ little blackifh ; but the other Parts are very mellow. The Exprclllon in the Figures below the Mount is very ftrong, as that of thofe above, particularly of the Chrijl, is moft delicate : the whole affords an incx* preflible Plcafure, notwithftanding the great Difadvantage of a K k 2 very * Since I wrote this, there has been an old and fine Copy of this Pifture imported into Ingl«>ui i I fippofe it to be the fame I iaw ai Rome in the Houle of Sign. Giofefje Chiari, who affirm'd to me that itwas the hand of (Jinlit Kimam : It is in the Ponefliofl of Sir Tho. Sea6right Bart. 252- Rome. Temp. Fortune Virilis, very bad Light : the beft you have is Juft oppofite to it, and that only thro" the Door at the lower End of the Church. The Countenance of him that holds the Child that is to be exorcis'd, fcems to have been taken from one of the Apoftles of Leonardo da Vinci, in his Reprefentation of the laft Supper, at Milan ; where we his faw original Drawings of the Heads for that, and were told that Raphael had certainly copied them all. As this I have been fpeaking of is allow'd to be the moft capital Picture, fo I think as pleafing a Piece of Sculpture as is in any of the Churches, is a Statue oi Fiamingo, in the Church i. Maria iii of S. Maria di Loreto, or de i Fornari (for it belongs to the Loreto. Bakers*) juft by 7>^' 'twould be but atliim agere ; they have been fo largely and fully defcrib d by Belloria.nd others formerly, and by Mi. Richardfon of htc; that to thefe 1 refer the Pvcader. I fhall only mention the Subjeds of them in fliort, as they arc ufually call'd, that the Reader may have thcin more at one View than they are in the lai'ger Accounts above men- tioned, i , . Tlie Rome. Vatican. id^ The firft and largcft of the Rooms is what they call the Sa/a di Conjlantino, [the Hall of Conjiantine'} and fomctimcs di Giidio Romano ; becaufe, tho' the Defigns for this Room were made by Raphael, they were painted after his Death by Giulio, tho' not without the Afllftance of fomc others. The Subjefts of the Paintings in this Hall arc, 1. Conftantine haranguing his Army, and the Crofs appear- ing in the Air. 2. The Battle of the llime Emperor with MaxentinSy at the Tons Milvius, a moft grand and amazing Performance. 3 . His being baptized by Pope Sylvefter. 4. His Donation of j??o;»(?, d^r. to the fame Pope. The Donation is made by the Emperor on his Knees, to the Pope fitting. Beyond this are three other Rooms : The principal Paintings in which were both dcfign'd and executed by Raphael\\vxiit\i. In the firft of thefe is, 1. Attila^ Kingofthe i7//««j, on his March with his Army to fack Rome-, but diverted by the Prayers of S. Leo the Firfl, the then Pope, and by the terrifying appearance of S. 'Reter and S. Raul in the Air. 2. Heliodortis drove out of the Temple oijerufakm. This is etch'd by Carlo Marat. 3. Rerer deliver 'd out of Prifon by the Angel. There is fuch ^ChiaroOfcuro [light and Shade] in this, as I never faw elfe- where, added to the inimitable Beauty of the Dcfign. The fourth is what they c^Wxhc Corpus T)ommi., being a Re- prefentation of the Miracle which gave occufion to the annual Feaft of that Name, on which Day they ha\'c their RroceJJto ge- neraliffima, in memory of it : 'Tis of the unbelieving Pricfl: already mention'd,/'^^. 217. from whofe Fingers the Wafer he was confccrating flipt out all bloody ; for lb the Story was given in that place. In this Reprefentation the Circumflance is varied i the Wafer remains between his Fingers 5 and Drops of Blood, ifluingfrom it, fall in the form of a Crofs. A rare Expedient to enforce the Dodrine of Tranfubftantiation ! In the next Chamber is, I. What they commonly call the Difpute of the Doctors, concerning the Holy Sacrament^ there being a Reprefentation of %6j^ R o m e. Vatican. ofthcHoft, and of icvcralPcrlons vibout it, teeming to be inga- gcd in Dilpurntion. 2. The School of y/^i^^^WJ. 3 . Th.c Tr'arnajfjis. TheDcfigns of thclc two are cngrav'd by Marc Antonio .; but the lafl. with confiderable Variations from the Painting. 4. Pope Gregory IX. (tho' the Face of Julius IL is given inftead of his) and Jnjiinian Emperor delrvcring the Digcfts and other Eooks of the Law. Above are reprefented Prudence-, Tem- perance, &c. In the lafl: of thefc Chambers is, 1 . The Incendio del Borgo ; a Fire in that Part of Rome call'd the Borgo di S. Tictro^ extinguifh'd by Pope Leo IV. making the Sign of the Crofs, and giving the Eencdidion. 2. The Juftification of Pope Leo III. from fome Crimes laid to his Charge by the Senate and People of Rome^ in a Complaint prcfented to Charles the Great, then King of France, foon after Emperor : where the Bilhops aflemblcd, by Charles's Order, for the Trial, declared that the Pope could not be tried by any Judi- caturc upon Earth but his own ; and he being call'd upon there- fore to judge himfclf, he laid his Hand on the Evangelifts, lying open upon the Altar, and pronounced himfelf innocent : and they all look'd upon him as fairly acquitted. There is, 3. That Pope's crowning the fame Charles the Great, Empe- ror of the Romans ; which was the beginning of the prefent Roman Empire, that is, the Empire of 'Germany. 4. The Viftory of Leo IV. over the Saracens. In the fame Chamber (as I remember, or one adjoining) is what they call I'ljloria diTipino : There is wrote at the bottom of it an Account of Tcpiris making an Oblation of the Exarchate of Ra-vemia-, and other things to the Church ; Tipinus pins primus (implificanda Ecclejia viam aperiiit Exarcatu Ra-vennate, & aliis plurimis ci oblatis. This being decay 'd, was rcftor'd by Gaiidentio Milanefe. In the Hall of Co7iJlantine, near the further Corner, at one end of the Cattle, isamoft admirable T'lgmc of Jujlice, painted by Raphael's own Hand, and the only thing he liv'd to paint in that Hall. -It has the Pcrfedion of Colouring, as well as all other Excellencies. On the Cicling of this Hall is painted the inner Rome. Vatican. i6$ innci' Perfpeclivc of a Building, with a Crucifix in the middle, and an Idol broken to pieces lying under it. In the Chamber where is the fine Pidurc I before mention'd, of the Deliverance of S. Teter out of Prilbn, are painted on the Cieling, Jacob's, Ladder. Mofcs and the Burning Bufh. Abraham offering Ifaac ; and, Noah juft come out of the Ark, kneeling before the Tadrc Eterno [Eternal Father] who is reprefented as fupported in the Air by Angels. Thefe are not forefhortcn'd, as is ufual in Figures uponCiel- ings, but painted in the fame manner as if they had been done upon an upright Wall. The Borders at the bottom under the great Pidures, are paint- ed mChiaro Ofcuro, moi\.o^t\\zmhy To Ij dor e. Some of thefe being decay 'd, were renewed by Carlo Marat. There is one thing in the Tarnaffiis which looks a little odd, and has frequently been found fault with. Inftead of the Harp, his ufual Inftrument, Apollo is playing upon a Violin. — But Raphael had his Authority for this from the Antients. There is now to be feen in the Villa Mont alt a an antique Statue of Apollo playing on the very fame Inftrument, and a fmall one of the fame in the Great Duke's Gallery : But Marc. AntoniOy in his Print of the Tarnaffus, has put a Harp in the Apollo's Hand : The Print differs too from the Picture in fevcral other Particulars. 7?<^^<2^/himfelf often varied his Defign of the fame Sub) eft J as in that of the famous S. Cacilia at Bologna, and others. In thefe admirable Paintings there is no great Gaiety or Ga w- dinefs of Colouring to allure the Eye, but there are things of much greater Confequencc, The noble Style of Drawing, the Grandeur of the Ideas, the Dignity of the Charaders, and the Sublimity of Expreflion, raife fuch Sentiments in the Mind, ns one would think the Eye could hardly tranfmit to it : and as a certain Sign of fuperior Excellency, the more they arc fccn, and the more they are confidcr'd, the greater is the Pleafurcand the Admiration. M m This 2.(5(5 Rome. Vatican. This is well exemplified in a Story thev tell of the two Carlo's^ Maratti and Cignanl, Men very well known by thek own Performances; whieh is this. When the later was newly come to Rome., the other ask'd him, whether he had been in the Vatican-, and how he lik'd the Paintings there : Very well, lays Cignani, fono belle Cofe. " They arc good pretty things." Pray Sieur C/irlo, (lays Marat) next time you go thither, do mc the Favour to make me a Drawing after fuch a Figure, (de- Icribing it) in the Incendlo del Borgo i I have occafion for it, but can't conveniently go my felf to do it. Cignani went to work, and after two or tlirce ElTays he fmok'd out the matter, tore his Paper, and came back to Marat with a Confellion, that Ra- fhael\i:is an inimitable Mailer. In another Room in the Vatican, we faw a fine Piclurc of T)otnenicbini, an Ecce Homo, when '■Pilate brought forth our Saviour to the Multitude; there is a very extraordinary Expref- fion of Flouting and Mockery in the Countenance of him that offers the Reed. In another are three fine Cartoons, one is of Raphael: Tis the Da;moniac brought to be exorcis'd, as reprefented in the lower part of the 'Transfiguration. It is fmce come into the Pof- fcfllon of Cardinal yf/^^^//, upon his Uncle's Death. The other two are of Carlo Maratti, and T>omenichin -, the former, a Nativity ; the other is a Friar, and another Figure. Another Room (I think 'tis a Chapel) has its Cieling painted by Giiido ; The Transfiguration i the Afcenfion j and the De- fccnt of thei/(?/r G/^tf/?. ■ There is a fniall Chapel painted by Federic Zuccharo : From this Chapel there is a View thro' a long Gallery to a Fountain which is on a Terrace at the further end, five hundred ordinary Paces in Length, as they told us; for I did not pace it: I found Employment enough in oblcrving the Ornaments of the fcveral Parts of it, which arc various in each : And the Additions to the Length of it were made at fevcral times, io that the Height and Pircadth are no way proportionable to lb vaft a Length ; and per- haps to redrefs the ill Confcquencc of this, they have made iucliDillinctions between the ieveral parts," that tho' they are all in one Line, they are as two or three fcveral Galleries, i. The Rome. V a r i c a n. 167 The Ornaments of Stucco gilt, in the fuflparr, with giotcfqu.c and other Fignrcs, fhcw very rich. Along the Walls arc painted large Geographical Dcfcriprions, mention'd before, of the fcvcral States and Provinces of Italy ^ and Tome other Places j with Landskapcs by ''Paul Brill and other Maflers : And along the Cieling arc fcveral Hiftories, and Fic- tions painted in Compartimcnts : One of them is an Inllance of their charitable Difpofition ; Theodoricus Rex in Infernumpro- jicitur, as fays the Infcription about it in exprefs Words, [King Theodoric is thrown into Hell.] The other parts of the Gallery arc adorn'd with fcvcral Paint- ings, large Drawings^ or Cartoons of various Hands, T)o)neni- chinOy Tietro da 'Tietris, and others, with antique Bufts, and Baflb-Rclievo's. In that part next the Terrace are the Bufts of T'tolomjms SoteTy Biblioth. Alexandr. Conditor, Miltiades, Ariftoteles, 'Pythagoras, M. Varro, Plato, Pittacus, JanuSy Homer, Mercur. Jive Hermes Hleorogrammateus, Hercules z^/Egyptia: ac Phanic. 'D'tfcipline propagator. ■ Thcfc two laft are paint- ed in the Library of the Vatic am\\\ow<^ the Inventcrs ofLctters- This Ariftotle does not refemble others I have fcen, particular- ly that of Cardinal Gualtieri ; this has no Beard, and you fee a long prominent Chin. Among the Baflb-Rclievo's, I obferv'd, on a Sarcophagus, a Chariot-Race of Cupids. There is a little Chapel below^ painted by Andrea Mantegnn. The Statues in the Court of the Belvedere *, arc, as to their Belvedere. Attitudes, fo well known, not only by the Prints, but Cafts from ^hf^^^HS them, or Models after them, which arc in England, that I need vahcefo cai- .11 IS only name them. The Apollo, Laocoon with his Sons, Venus ^f'!' ., and Cupid, another Venus., the Antinous Admirandus, (as 'tis cirdin. ufually call'd) and Commodius the Emperor as a Hercules. The Apollo, the Laocoon, and the Antinous are much the bcft -, and they are all excellent.— The Cotmnodus is good, but fhcws a plain difference between the Greek and Roman Taitc of Sculp- ture. Neither of the Statues of Venus is in the bcft Tafte ; one of them can hardly be called good. The Beauty of the Marble, and the Airs of the Figures in moft of thefc arc what no Copy can thoroughly reprei'cnt ; and in- deed they- are exquifite. — For even in Cafts, which muft be M m 2 cftccm'd 268 Rome. V a t i c a n. cftccin'd the moll: c>;r.«rrifrt- he knew not the Names of, andlhave delcribed thole, only by Inr Recount tllC CoIOUt of tlicit Habit, :. .. ef the Orders, £;c. at the vrocejjion that Qrphaus of S. M'uhael finging in parts. Ihef-r^ Tear Whitc Orphans, finging in the fame manner. <,/ Innocent Frati [Brothcrs] di G/epi Maria. '^"'/^'/r.' 'P^dri France fi [Fre-ach Fathers] of the Madonna dei Miracoli 7ner more ge- J ^ -^ neraione.in [ot our Lady of tlic Mitacks] i'r/?»r{/irtfwx, :./.:: .'hehtftrear Capiichins, . ... J «f Clement ■>■ — , :xi. ' Fathers Rome. Monte Cavallo. 279 Padiers of the Redemption \_fc. of Captives] of the Convent of S.Adrian. Their Habit white. Fathers of S. Onuphrio. Hermits. French Minims., Fathers. Black. Francifcans 5 of the Convent of theH. Apoftles. Francifcans, of S. S. Cofrnus and T>amianus. Tadri Serviti of S. Marcellus. Fathers. Francifcans of the Ara Cceli. A very numerous Order. 'padri Augufiini. Fathers. A black Order. 'Padri Carmelitani. White. Fathers. A black Oi-der. 'Padri T>ojninicani. A Dark-colour'd Order. Regular Canons of S. Tet. in Vincoli. Fathers of S. Eufebius. Black. Fathers of S. Bernard. White. Two black Orders. A white Order. A black Order. Regular Canons of the Convent dellaTace, [of the Peace] Brothers of the College in S, Teter'%. Parifli Priefts. Canons of the Bocca di Verita, CMouth of Truth.3 Canons of S. Celfus. Canons of S, Maria inviolata. Pavilion of the Bafilica di San£i. SanEhrtim, with Bells, as de- fcribed before. Another Pavilion with Chorifters fuiging in parts. Canons of the Apoftolick Chancery of S. Lorenzo in 'Dam afa. The Bafilica of S. Maria Maggiore, with Muficians, Canons^ Prelates, e^r. The Bafilica of S. John Later an ; with Canons, &c. Officers, Gentlemen, i^c. with Flambeaux, Tapers, &.c. Generals of the Orders, with their Servants. The Sbirri with their Captain. The Apoftolick Protonotaries. Jowx. Treregni, or Triple Crowns j and two Mitres, Mufick of the Pope's Palace. Prelates.. Penitcn- ;^go Rome. Monte Cavallo. Penitentiaries of S. y^ffr. ~ :, ,, Bifliops, thirty-one. Cardinals, forty-fix, Trains born up. Officers with their red Hats, &c. Senators and Coniervators, &c. Hoft and Pope under Canopy, as above. Camerarie d'Honore [Gentlemen of the Chamber, i^c.J C av alii Leggier i. Light Horle, as above. CuirafTiers. Poot Guards, The Procefllon began from the Fatican-ildc of S. Teter's Church next the Portico where Raphael's Tapeftries then were hung up, as I before obferv'd was ufuai, and continued under a fort of occailonai Portico, whofe Covering was Linen Cloth, to keep off the Sun, lupported by wooden Columns, wrap'd round with green Boughs; Fcftoons reaching all along at the top from one Column to another ; and in the midft, above each Fcftoon, fome fort of Pidure hung with a green Garland round it. The way was all along ftrew'd with frelh Sand, and Bay- Leaves fcatter'd over it. When they came to the 'Piazza di Scojfa Cavalli (about a quarter of a Mile from the Chiuxh, ihey call it a great deal more) they fetch'd a Compafs about that Piazzc, and went up by the Por- tico on the other fide the Arc: before S. 'Peter's into the Church. His Holinefs afcending the grcot Altar, gave his Benedidion, and elevated the Hoft. At the Elevation, there was heard fuch a Sound of the People thumping their Breafts, as you hear when a Regiment of Soldiers arc grounding their Mulquets. — Anthems iinging before and after. When his Holinefs was gone, the Hoft, which after the Ele- vation was repofcd by him upon the great Altar, was carried by the Canons, auu plac'd on the Altar at the upper end of the Church. After the Papal Palaces, comes next in Dignity that of the Canci'llaria, which is a noble Struclure, built round a large Court, with Porticoes one above another. 1 he Apartments are great and noble, as well thofe for Audi- ence and Entertainment, as thofe which are fct apart for Bufi- nc("s for the Attendance of the Prelates and others, upon the Affairs of the Apoftolick See, There Rome. C a n c e l l a r i a. j8i There is an antique Hercules, in the Attitude of the Famefe ; it is very fine, but fmall. One of the Halls is painted in Frcfco by Giorgio l^^fari. Some very good Paintings are in the Galleries, and difpcrs'd in the Apartments. The eminent Pcrfon, who inhabits this Palace by virtue of his high Office, is Cardinal Ottoboni, Vicc-ChanccUorof the Apo- ftolick See. Heretofore they were called Chancellors, while it was held by Cardinals, as it has been now again ; but for a confidcrable time it was in the hands of others, that were not Cardinals ; and he that held it then was called Cancellarii vicem gerens ; and there being a pretty long Succeflion of fuch, when it came to be held by Cardinals again, they were not mindful of rcftoring the anticnt Title it had before. This Cardinal is a Man of great Courtefy and Generofity, and makes all his Entertainments da gran Trencipe, [as agreat Prince ;] one particularly at which my Lord 'Parker was prcfent (I had the Honour of being there likewifej which they fay coft him fix thou- fand Crowns i it was in honour of the [then] new-elected Pope. In the publick Piazza, before the Palace, was a Concert of Vo- cal and Inftrumcntal Mufick, of a hundred and fifty Performers :■ There were two large Talco's or Galleries erected, one on each fide the Piazza, for the Performers, with others for fuch of the Company as the numerous Windows of the Palace could not contain : At a diftance, fronting the middle of the Palace, was a Machine, built in very handlbme Architcfture, rais'd on an Arch of Rock- work, with feveral large Figures, for the Fire- works : the four principal Figures reprefcnting the four Qiiartcrs of the \^'orld. Thcfe, with others at a further diftance, \\'hich they call Girandole, whirling in a thoufand Varieties before the Eye, and fo numerous a Chorus of admirable Mufick filling the Ear, gave a furprifingly magnificent Entertainment to both. The Mufick was a fort of T>rama, wherein the principal Terfona were the fame as were prefcnted on the Machine, /. e. the four Qiiarters of the World, who, fomctimcs in alternate Song, fomc- times in united Chorus, celebrated the Praifes of the new Pope, with the great Advantages arifing to the World in general, and to Rome in particular, from this her 'Pri?/^^, P aft or, zi\ and for the fuperior Excellency of \vhich this Statue is particularly remark'd.^ Signor An- tonio Borioni, the famous Virtuofo-Apothecary, has a maim'd Statue in much the fame Condition the Flora was in before it was repair'd, wanting the Head and Hands. The Drapery of his too is admirable, and the Sweep of the Body beautiful ; his feems to have been a Flora too. The Gladiator, fome fay, reprcfents Spicillus Mirmillo, a l^rced-man of Nero, who had fignaliz'd himfelf by his Bravery. •A Youth, whom he haskiird,is thrown over his left Shoulder. Others call this a Commodus, in the Appearance of a Gladiator. Gronovius is of another Opinion, and will not allow it to be any Gladiator : He fuppofes it to be an Atreus with one of the Chil- dren of his Brother Thyejies : Unlefs (fays he) you'll fuppofc Gladiators to have been fighting with Boys. [This indeed he has on his Back, is no more,] His Dcfcription of this Figure is very Oo 2 juft. 184 Pv O M E. P A L. F A R N E S E. JLift. Ejl imago pevientis-, & citrociffime contreEfantis pne- rum-, in qtiem crndelijjime vnlt confulcrc. Hinc arreptnm pede dextro jamjam gladio eft diffe^itirus y cert e fie minabmidus ftat Atreus, atqite iratiimet. " It is the Rcprcrcnt:ation of a Pcrlbn " much enraged, who very roughly handles a Lad, whom he is " going to ule with the utmoft Cruelty. He has caught him up " by his right Foot, and is juft a going to cleave him aiundcr " with his Sword. With luch a thrcatning Countenance, in- " deed, does Atreus ftand, and (wells with Rage." The Alellenger, indeed, in Seneca's Thy eft es, gives another Account of the Death of his Children, /Z-. a formal Sacrifice of them by the Hand of a Prieft, with all accuftom'd Ceremonies. But luch Variations are a Liberty allowable to Poets of every kind, whe- ther Verfificrs or Sculptors, i^c. In a wafte Ground, without the back Gate of the Palace, is cnclos'd within a rude fort of a Place, that famous Groupe call'd the Toro ; [the Bull.] There is the Bull, two Men and two Women, and a Youth as big as the Life, with Animals, and other Ornaments. Thcfc, and the Rock they all ftand upon, arc cut out of one Block of Marble. The Story is, T>irce tied to the Horns of the Bull. The other Circumftanccs of the Story are too well known to need being inferted here. I did not find any Inicription upon the Marble, but 'tis look'd upon to be the fame which is.ipention'd by 'Pliny as brought from Rhodes., and pkc'd before tlie Houfc of Afinius ToUio -, the joint Work of Apollonins and Tanrifcus. It was remov'd from Its firfl Situation by Caracalla, and plac'd in his Baths ; in the Ruins of which it was found in the Time of Tanl the Third. It is of unequal Goodnelsin thefeveral Parts: The Countenances o^ Zet us 2Li\d. Amphion have a noble Exprcdion of Indignation and Revenge : Their Hands, and the Head of the Bull, have a great deal of Porce, which none of the Prints of it, which 1 have feen, do in any degree come up to : But the Exprcllion in the Countenance of IDirce is not luch as one might expect on the Occafion : It is quite without Pallion. Antiope ftands by as a Speftator, and not much concerned any way ; perhaps the Satisfaction fhc might take in the Fate of her Rival, and yet the Horrour naturally ari- sing l^rom fuch a Sight might be fuppos'd as mutual Checks uf on each other, and fo to keep her Soul in an Equilibriuni. , ■ Amp h ion's Rome. P a l. F a r n e s e. i^^ Amphio7is Harp lies ar one comer of the Rock, and gives us :i\\ authentick Reprefcntation of the old Teftiido Cithara. This Groupe, taking it all together, muft be cftcem'd a moft magnifi- cent and noble Performance. In the fame place are a great many other Pieces of antique Sculpture j fome Fragments, others intire. Among whicii a young Augnftus on horfcback, about the Size of Half Life, is excellently good. And, a Ram, which for fuch a Subject is ad- mirable : One would wonder iiow iMarblc could be fo foften'd into Wool- The Gallery, painted by Caracci, is univerfally known, as to the Defign, by the Prints that are of it. The Execution is moft mallerly in all rcfpeds : And for Colouring, it is certainly the very Perfection of Frefco- Painting. The feveral Stories are feparated from each other by large Fi- gures, in Chiaro Ofcuro, of Termini, CariatideSy. ^c. which give a moft agreeable Variety, and a Relief to the Eye from luch an EfFedl, as the Luxuriancy, which fo great a Work all painted in the proper Colours would have produc'd. The Idea of the 'Fi2,mcsof 'Poijphenie, of which there arc two in this Work, feem evidently to have been taken from thofe of '\Pelegrino Tibaldi, in the Injiituto at Bologna, under whom the Family of the Caracci made their firft Studies in Pa'inting. The- ; Part of the Story reprefented here is dift'erent from that at Bo- logna, and conlequently fo is the Attitude too ; I'lpeak therefore only of the Idea in general, being taken from the other, which I think muft be manifeft to thofe who have confider'd both. Befides this admirable Performance in Painting, this Gallery is adorn'd with feveral Pieces of excellent antique Sculpture, which are rang'd at proper Diftances all along it. Here is the famous Homer, the Original of fo many others, which are antique too. W'^e faw four together in one Collection, [that of Cardinal ^/e'^«/J fome a little varied in fome inconfide- rable Circumftanccs, but all vifible Imitations of this. There is likewife a Veftal Virgin of exquifite Beauty, and feve- ral others, too many to recite. But, I muft not oniit the Seneca, the very Pidure of Signor Trevifani, a famous Painter now in Rome, It is not neceflary that a great Man Ihould be a great Beauty. There l86 Rome. P a l. F a r n e s e. There arc a great many Reprcfentations of this Philofopher at Rome and clfewhere : As good a one as any, I think, is that of the Great Duke's at Florence. ]ull: as you come out of the Gallery, in the Room adjoining, yoli fee the Venus Callipygis [with fair Haunches] flie turns back her Head to look at them ; with one Hand (he holds the Drapery before her, which (he has drawn from behind, and with the other fhe raifes part of it above her head. The Head is mo- dern, and indiiFercnt enough, but the Back is excellent. The Occafion of this Epithet being given to Venus^ is deliver'd by Athenaus, and is as follows. " Two pretty young Girls, Daughters of a Countryman, near " SYracufe, taking a Walk in a publick Way, fell hato a Dif- " pute which of them had the handfomet Buttocks. A young " Man happening to come by, who was Son to a chief Perfon in " the City, they agreed to refer the Matter to him, and both " fairly fliew'd him the Parts in queftion. After a careful View " of each, headjudg'd thofe of the Elder to be the handfomeft, ^' and became violently fmitten with the Lafs. Back he goes " into the City, fick of Love, and tells his younger Brother " what had happen'd. Upon this, out went He, and taking his " Survey of the Girls, fell in love with the other. The Fa- " ther of the young Men coming to know of it, urg'd them to *' bethink themfelves of more confiderable Matches 5 but, find^- " ing all he could fay fignilicd nothing, refolv'd at laft to indulge <■' their Love, fent for the Girls out of the Field, well to the " Content of their Father, and married them to his Sons. The " young Ladies [for fuch we muft now call them] upon this " got the Name of KahAiirvyoi among their Fellow-Citizens, " according to the Iambic of Cercidas the Megalopolitan. There was a fair-haunch'd Pair in Sjracnfe, " They being now advanc'd to a fair Fortune, built a Temple to " Venus, calling her likewifcKaAA/7rv>or." In the fame Room is a Marble Head, which they call 'Deme- Jihenes, but it is very much different from other Reprcfentations A have fecn of him. It has no Beard, the others ha^■e. It fomc- Rome. P a l. F a r n e s e. 187 (bmcwhat refembles the Head of the Rotatore at Florence : info- much that I have known the Plaifter-Caft of the one miftakcn for the other, by fomc, that have not been well acquainted with both thcfe Pia;urcs, tho' otherwifc well skill'd in things of this nature. Among a confiderable Number of the Roman Emperors, in another Room, there isafamousBuftofC^r^r^///^, which is par- ticularly efteem'dj it is a moft elaborate, as well as mafterly Per- formance, and (as the Homer above-mention'd) has had great Numbers done in Imitation of it, which wc have feen difpers'd in fevcral CoUcftions. In the fame Room are two fine Bacchanals in BafTo-Relievo. Here is the Plan of old Rome in Marble, taken from the Tem- ple of Romulus and Remus, as has been already mention'd. There is extant a Map of old Rome, wliich was taken in part from thefe Marbles. In another Room is painted the Hiftory of that great General ' of this Family, Alexander Fame fe, but not very well. The fame Sub) eft is reprefented at ^P/^f^w^^, and takes up a. whole Suite of Rooms. A particular Account of this great Man may be feen in Famia- nus Strada's Hiftory of the Low-Country Wars. In the Hall is a large Statue of the fame Alexander, crown'd by Victory ; the River Scheldin Chains, zx\/'d:^/'s own Hand, anddomuch furpafs the Cieling in the Execution. The Ground of that is a ftrong blue Sky, with fnowy fort of Clouds, which is no Advantage to the Figures. This they told us was nothing fo to that degree, till painted over by Carlo Maratti, who was employed to repair it. Bellori has given a large Account of the Story, and the Performance ; and under the Prints of it engrav'd by Sir Nich. Dorigny, arc fummary Accounts of the fcveral Parts of it, to which 1 refer the Reader. The Venus in the Council of the Gods is as clumfy and grofs in the Painting as 'tis in the Print -, one would rather take it for a Dcfign of Rubens than of Raphael. Tluto's Side-glance to- wards her is admirably exprefs'd in the Original, as is Neptune's more dired one. But the Venus that comes in dancing at the . , , Nuptial Rome. Pal. BarberIni. 289 Nuptial Feaft, is a moft genteel and beautiful Figure ,• fo light and airy, as if fhe could lead on her Dance in pure z_yEthery and not need the Footing even of a Cloud to fix her Steps upon. The Mercury-, which is painted at the upper End of the Gallery [below the Cicling] is, I think, the livelieft Figure I ever faw : You can hardly perfuade your Iclf, but that he is really coming forward to meet you. The Paintings above flairs fcarcc defervc to be mention'd, (at Icaft after what we have been fpeaking of, ) though they call'd them all Giulio Romano's. Vulcan's Forge, over a Chimney in the firft Room, Giulio poffibly might have had fome hand in. The 'Palazzo Barberini is a vaftly large, and moft noble Pa- lace ; being at the fame time the Habitation both of a Prince, pai.Barbe- and of a Cardinal, each having their feparate Grand Apart- "Q'- ments in it, either of them fufficient to make a great Palace of itfelf. And yet there is, befides, another Icfler one, of the • Princefs Talejlrina. In this Palace is a very large and fine Library : The Keeper of it, Monf. de Romain, is a curious and learned, but very mO- rofe Gentleman. He would not fo much as accept the Money ofFer'd him by way of Gratuity ; others in his Station are upon fuch Occafions generally more complaifant. He is the fame Perfon that wrote a large Account in Latin of S. Peter's Church, intitled, Templum Vaticanum. Throughout the Apartments are difpers'd a perfed Infinity of Paintings, Sta- tues, and other Curiofities. The great Stair-cafe has in the middle of it an antique Lion in Marble, Mezo-Relievo, in a very great Tafte. This Lion is lup- pos'dby Bellori {Vetentm Sepulchra, N° 49.] to have belonged to an old Sepulchre at Tivoli, now deftroycd ; but the Memory of it is preferv'd by a Drawing ofPietro da Cortona, and publifh'd by Bellori from that. The Barberini-Vzm\\y might pollibly come by this Lion thro' the means of Pietro, when he was painting their great Hall. A pair of Back Stairs, on the other fide, of the Liimacha- fort [winding,] are reckon'd the fineft in Rome s, the Area of thcfc Stairs is not round, but oval. Either of thefe Stair-cafes delivers you into a very noble Hall, the Cieling admirably painted by Pietro da Cortona. (as juftnow hinted) the Triumph of Glory, the four CardiuAi Vir- ' P p tuesj Z90 Rome. Pal. Barberini. tues, erini- Aims, which are Bees. In another Room is a moft curious Portrait-Buft, carved by Bernini^ a Lady of the Family Galeoti, Wife to one of the Barberini. I have feen other Faces of his, full as well done as this : but there is fomewhat in the Drapery almoft furpafling Imagination. The Delicacy of the Lace about her Neck and Bofom, fo wrought in Marble ! it is not to be exprefs'd. In another Room, fome naked Figures painted in Chiaro Of- ciiro., by Mich. Angelo, in capricious Attitudes, called Academia. delle Forze, as if it were a School for Inftruftion, how to repre- fent Actions of Strength and Adivity. A fine Picture of Leonardo da Vinci, two Women : one of them has a Flower in lier Hand. In other Rooms are Marcus Aurelius, as haranguing his Army j and Scptimius Severus, a whole figure, both in Copper. Hip- Rome: Pal. Barberinl 191 Hippomanes and Atalanta, in Marble, fine. An old Mofaic of Europa and the Bull, brought from the Temple of Fortune at Tranefte^ now cail"d Talejlrina, whereof the Family of the Barber ini are Princes. Three Bacchantes in Baflb-Relievo, on an Altar, half round* IJts and Harpocrates, with a Cornucopia. A very fine antique Venus allcep ; Marble. A Boy afleep, finely painted by Guide. Tolypheme and Galatea, by Han. Caracci, in Frefco, fmall. The famous Magdalene of Guide, which (as I remember) they diftinguilh by the Addition of Con piedi nudi [barefoot.] And A S. Francis over againft it, by the lame Hand : Of both thete there are Copies in England. Noah and Cham, by Andrea Sacchi. A S. Catharine, by Leonardo da Vinci j admirable. A Roma Triumphans, an antique Fainting in Frefco, with ViBeriela. Under it is a modern Infcription, Virtus, Honor ^ Imperium, [Virtue, Honour, Empire.] Over againft this is a Venus, antique, likewife in Frefco ; with fomc Boys added by Carlo Maratti : A good Copy has been made of it by Thomafe Chiari, Brother to Giofeppe. Near thefe is a linall Head of an old Woman, which has the moft of Nature of any thing, I think, I everfaw. A Rogns*, and feveral other fine Bafib-Relievo's. ' * Funeral The twelve Apoftlcs, whole Lengths, v>zmtcd by Carlo Ma-i'^VY"^- ,. IT1 /-111 i„ ^"''y oHrnmg, rat : and, n\ another Room, lome whole-length Portraits by &c, the fame. On the Prince's fide, is a celebrated Pidure of Nicola Touf- fin, reprcfcnting the Death of Germanicus. Mr. Richardfon has a fine Copy of it. A Saint praying ; by Guido. ..." A Peft ; by Carle Marat. The Baptifm of Chrifi ; by Andrea Sacchi. Another Magdalen by Guido; Ibmcwhat in the Attitude oft This is that on the Cardmal's Side. tZI^Zt A Noli me t anger e t ; by Han. Caracci. the phiures Silenus, an antique Statue, fine. Z'nfom^' Pope Urban VIII. in Mofaic. He was the Raifer of this Fa- "f!er hh Re. mily. furrenion, V^z A tt ''"" zpi Rome. P a l. B a r b e r i n l A Goat icratching his Ear, Marble, antique. Some capricious Fancies of Mich. Angela.^ called his Dreamr There is a Print after it. Raphael's Miftrcfs, painted by himfelf ; with naked Breaft and Arm. Upon the Bracelet on her Arm is written Raphael Urbinas. The Piclurc has abundance of Nature, but reprefents no great Beauty. There is a Copy of it above flairs, by Giulio RonmnG. ' ' ' • In the Princcfs's Apartment arc, A Chriji allecp, and a Madonna ; a fine Countenance ; by Gu'ido. A Holy Family, czW'iS. Raphael. Tis doubtlefs of his Defign. King Charles the Firft's Qiicen, by Vandyke. A Holy Family and S. Catharine, by Tarmegiano. Some Studies, as they call them, that is, Drawings and Sket- ches after Coregio's Cupola at Tarma i faid to be done by ^«- elrea Sacchi. To avoid Prolixity, I forbear addmg feveral others in this Palace, which I took Memorandums of. But, I muft not omit mentioning the famous Vas Barberinum] the Figure of the Vafe itfelf, with thofe of the Baflb-Relievo's that are upon it, are in print. The Ground is black, and the Figures in the Relievo are white : So that it is what they call Cameo, and there they do aver that the black and the white in the Stone are both natural. But, Signor Ficaroni, upon frequent Examinations of it, is of a contrary Opinion : For that the An- cients had certainly the way of making artificial Cameo's } of which he fhew'd me feveral in his Poffellion j and made me a Prefent of a little one that was fo. This Vafe contained the Afhes of the Emperor Alexander Sever us y and was found in his Tomb, within a Vafe of Porphyry, which is now in the Capitol. At Cavalier Tozzo's we faw a Copy painted in Oil-Colours by Nicola TouJJin, of the Baflb-Relievo's that are on it. With this Vafe they Ihew'd us an antique Statera Romana, tRoman Steelyard] withaBufl: for its Weight. There is a \'ery pretty Fountain in the. middle of the Salone, below Stau-s, looking to the Garden. A Rome. Pal. Barberink 293 A fort of Trench goes along the back Part, and Side of the Palace, and over one part of it is a Bridge built by Bernini, in imitation of the Ruins of an old one : It is very fafe palling over it, tho' by the Appearance one would not think fo. A very ingenious Perfon who was with us, and one who had ftudicd many Years in Rome, Architciflure as well as Painting, (but had never happen'd to fee this Bridge) was fome time before he could be convinc'd that it was not a real Ruin j fo well is it reprefented. As we were obferving this Bridge, L happen'd to caft my Eye upon a Marble Infcription in one of the Walls of the Trench, that keeps up the Ground from tumbling in, which, large and fair as it is, may eafily efcape the Sight of a Traveller, unlefs he be taken on purpofe to fee it, which we never were, tho' w-e feveral times vifitcd this Palace. It was the Incredulity of my Friend leading us to the further fide of the Bridge, that gave mc an Occafion of efpying it. I found the Infcription related to. Qur Nation, and fo I tranfcrib'd it, as follows. TI . CLAVDIO. CiES. AVGVSTO. PONTIFICI . M AX . TR . P . IX COS . V . IMP. XVI . P.P. SENATVS . POPVL • Q • R . QVOD REGES . BRITANNIi^ . ABSQ^ . ' VLLA . lACTVFvA . DOMVERIT.. . GENTESQVE . BARBARAS PRIMVS . INDICIO . SVBEGERIT.. This Palace is built all upon ftrong Pillars and Arches, fo that from the Front you may drive a Coach under it, quite thro' into the Garden, which is on the Back-fide the Palace. The 'Palace Borghefe is very large ; the Shape of it fomewhat thI. Berg- - refembles that of an Harpfichord. The principal Part of it is ^^^«' built about a Court, which has two Portico's, one above another, with antique Graniie Pillars, Doric and Ionic, and feveral antique Statues. On one fide it is extended to a very great Length, with a Viuo through all the Apartments, to a fountain at a dillance from the . Palaces . 2,94 Rome. Pal. Borghese. Palace : This Fountain ftands upon another Perfon's Groun d but the Prince Borghefe was at the Expcncc of making it, that his Profpeft might terminate upon a beautiful Objed. A bare Catalogue only of the Pictures that arc in this Palace would fill a large Volume. I fhall mention only a very fev/ of them. A celebrated Pifture o?T>0menichim. The Ripofo di Caccia ,• 'tis of 'Diana and her Nymphs repoling themfelves after Hunt- ing. Cafar Borgia and Macchiavel, an admirable Pidure of Titi- an i by fome call'd a Raphael. A Laft Supper by Titian. A Prefcntation by Giacomo Bajfan, excellently coloured, iias a vaft Force of Light and Shadow ; and the Figures are gen- teel. A Magdalen by Han. Caracci. Albanis Loves, the round. The Originals of thofe Multi- tudes of Prints we fee of them in England and elfcwhere. There is a Set of the fame at Bologna, original too : /. e. a Repe- tition of the fame Dcfign by the fame Mailer j a Pradice frequent in favourite Subjcds. A Crucifixion, faid to be of Mich. Angela % of which they tell the Story, already more than once mcntion'd. The Gr/zf^J hood-winking O^/V/j a fine Pidure, by Titian: It has a Glafs over it. A Ritrattoof 77>/ did not take its Q_ q Originc zpS Rome. P al. S p a d a. Origine from GJtu, but rather gave that Name to the Animal, bccaulc (lain in Sacrifice. Ovid gives us his Realbn why this Animal was the firft that was lacrificcd. ■prima pntatnr Hoftia fits meruijfe rmri, quia femhia pando Eriierit rojiro, Jpcmque interceperit amii. Met, xv. the delving Sow, The firft Offender, felt the fatal Blow, For fpoiling of the Crop, to Death decreed, Murd'ring the Harvcft in the new-fown Seed. By Var. Hands. A Bacchanal. A Bacchante towards the middle of it is a moft genteel Figure ; and all the reft are very fine. Tr'imalcio, with his Gang waiting on him towards his Bed, fomc bringing Eatables, fome playing on mufical Inftruments, according to Tetronius Arbiter's Defcription. Another Reprefentation of this Gentleman is to be feen in the Admiranda ; taken from a Balfo Relievo in the Villa Mon- talta. The famous Vafe at Tifa is of the fame Subjc£t. Here arc V,u^s oi Seneca, Aratus, Alcibiades, [fo call'd, but not like others of him] Ajinius Verns, &c. fni. Spada. In the Palazzo Spada, is the great Statue of Tompey moftly naked i the right hand is extended, the left holds a loofe Dra- pery up to his Side ; a fhort Sword tuck'd up among it. When this Statue was found, it lay fo, that the Head was on one Man's Ground, the Body on another's. He on whofe Ground the Body lay, claim'd it, as having fo much the greater part; the other claim'd it as having the more noble part, and that which Ihewed whom it reprcfented : Each having thus a pretence. He to whom the Matter was referr'd, adjudg'd to each the Part rhat lay on his own Ground, fo the Head was fawn off, and given to one of the Claimants, the reft to the other. The Pope hearing of the wife Decilion, bought of each of them his feve- ral Share, and had them join'd again. This is Ficaroni's Ac- n - ' count: Rome. Pal. Gualtieri: 299 Count of the Matter: And thus he accounted tons for a vifiblc Scam that goes acrofs the Neck. There arc other fine things in this Palace ; fome antique Baflb-Rclievo's. Terfeus watering T^egafus. Morpheus with Poppies about his Head, wiiite Marble. He is generally feen in black Marble, as more alluding to Night. A Bambino Rotnano (as they call it) col Mantello -, a Roman Boy, with a Cloak. A Boy with a Beretta^ [Cap] who ferv'd at the Bacchanal Feafts, with a Skin over his Shoulders. A Venus, cloath'd, and Cupid. Seneca fitting. Scipio Africanits, and, Septimius Se-veriis, Bulls. In a little Gallery are fome Figures in Stucco, faid to be by ^an. da Volterra. Ganymede, &c. painted on the Cieling, feems to be of the School of Mich. Angelo, tho' call'd there Giovanni Bellini. Another Room, Stucco as above, and Paintings in the Flo- rentine Manner. In the Great Gallery is a moft admirable Ritratto of Cardinal Spada, a whole-length Figure, fitting j by Guido. The Rape of Helena, by the flmie. Maffaniello's Revolution in Naples., by Mich. Ang. da Bat- talia. Two fine Claude Lorains. Other Landskapcs by Gafp. Touljin. Several Ritrats by Titian •■, and other good Piclurcs. There is a fine View from this Gallery of the Fonte Janiculo. The Palace of Cardinal Gualtieri, tho' not very remarkable p^;. cual- iipon other accounts, (at lead fo much of it as we faw,) is a Ma- fieri- gazine of Learning and Curiofitics. Befidcs the Library, which confifts of four large Rooms, there is 7L Suite of eighteen more fiU'd with Variety of curious things of fevcral forts. In the firft arc.Bufts and Infcriptions upon Marble, fepulchral and other. Upon an Offuarimn (of which there are great Num- bers) is writ an Adjuration that you do not violate it, inthcfc Words PERDEOS SUPEROS INFEROSQUE TE ROGO NE OSSUARIA VELIS VIOLARE. M. CALPHURNlUS. Q^q z M. 3 300 Rome. Pal. Gualtierl M. L. SULLA CALPHURNIA. M.L. FAUSTALIBEHTA. There is an antique Baflb-Rclicvo of Ariftotle in Profile ; he has a long Beard, with a Thrygian Bonnet on his Head, Un- der it is written APISTOTEAH2. In he fccond, Idols and other antique Figures in Copper, Marble, &c. Among them is the Judgment of Tar/sin. Cop- per 5 it is fmall, and only two of the Goddeflcs are there. In the third, antique Inftruments, fome us'd in Sacrifice, fome on other publick Occafions, and fome in common Life. There is a Pragment of an old triumphal Chariot. In the fourth. Urns, fome Greek, in Terra Cotta, found at Nola. Several old Etrufcan Urns, fome with Baflb-Relievo's. Some Glafs VelTcls which were within the Marble Urns, with Figures done in Gold on the Infide. Alfo Vota, fome in Marble, others in Terra Cotta, &c. which they hung up in their Temples : Heads, Hands, Feet, and other parts. Among them is a Natura Fwminina. Two little pieces of antique Frefco, 'Diana 2Lnd Mars, found at Tivoli. In the fifth, Curiofitics Ant'tco-Moderne. A Genius, antique, Frefco, fomcwhat after the Maimer that they defcribe the Che- rubs now-a-days. A Pvitratto of Majfaniello. In the futh, Diihes of feveral forts of Earth, and modem L^rns. In the feventh, mixt Curiofities. An antique Venus, in Ame- thy ft ; 'tis a Buft, fixteen Inches high, twelve broad. An Eiiropa painted by Guido. In the eighth, Curiofities, moftly modern, kept in Cabinets There is an antique Bacchanal in Ivory. In the ninth, Indian^ Terfian, and other Idols. In the tenth, C/r'/w^ Ware, which when firftplac'd there, was undoubtedly a great Rarity, and may poflibly be moft of it a . greater now, fince they have for fo many Years made that Work far Ihort of what they did formerly. Our Ladies know how to put a jutl Value upon old C6/» A Rome. P a l. C o l o n n a» ^05 A Roman Conful fitting. Two Fatini on each fide of an Altar. Two Fisiurcs call'd Gladiators ; one has the other under him." The Swords (if they had any) arc broke. A fine Hygieia^ with the Serpent and Cup. On one fide the 'Piazza de S. Apojioli, ftands the Palazzo Colonna, which, by the Appearance it makes on the Outfide, does ^'' ' '^"°-'^""*' not give you any reafon to cxpccl the Beauty, Magnificence and Elegance you find within. There are many noble Apartments, and finely adorn'd every way. But, above all the reft, is that moll beautiful Gallery, which furpalfes all I ever faw, not for Length, (for it has little more of that than to give it the Denomination of a Gallery) but for the agreeable Proportion, and graceful Difpofition of all the parts of the Vafe * itfclf ; and the Richnefs, the fine Choice, * aj thef and proper Adjuftmcnt of the Ornaments. /''" 'h^^ody They lead you to it artfully enough, thro' a narrow blind/; '"^ '"' " Corridore, enlighten'd only by Gelojie, as they call 'em, fmall Lattices along one fide; which, like a Difcord in Mufick before a full harmonious Clofe, heightens the Surprize, when you find your felf immediately in one of the moft glorious Galleries in the World. The Cieling is vaulted, and painted in Frcfco : the Subjcd is the Hiftory and Exploits of fevcral of that noble Family, particularly the Viclory of Marc. Antonio Colonna over the Turks in the Levant. The Frames of the Windows are of Marble, and between them are V\.\z&.ctsoi Giallo Antico, a forr of yellowiflh Marble, highly cfteem'd; the Order is, xSxzCoynpofite : The Capitals are of white Marble. Military Trophies of 3'/^«ff(?giltrun up each fide of thefe Pilafters. The Cornice, which goes round th; Top, is all gilt likewife. At proper Diftances arc Panucls for Pic- tures, fiU'd with thofe of the bcft Maftcrs. The Floor is, of all I ever faw, thcfincft in all refpcL'':s. The Choice of the feveral forts of Marble, wl.ich make thr jvem^. it, is judicious and happy; the feveral Colours fet of^ o.^e another perfedlly well: There is juft fo much variety of ibits as to di- ■ vert the Eye, not to confound and diftrad it •- a Fault which 1 have often obferv'd in the Mixture of too many forts of R. r "' ^ Marble. 2o4 Rome. P a l. C 6 l b n n a." Marble. The fcveral Pannels or Compartiments, into which it is divided, are fine and large, the De%n is great, and dilpos'd with a noble Gufto. Lovely Marble Tables, with antique Statues, Bufts, and other valuable and rich Furniture, are plac'd ia the moft agree- able manner all along on each fide. At each end is a fort of Lobby, or Entrance, of the fame Breadth with the Gallery, and adorn'd after the fame manner, with Paintings on the Cieling, &c. Thefe have their Commu- iiication with the Gallery by a large Opening, arched at the Top, and grac'd with magnificent Pillars, of the fame Materials and Order with the Pilafters I mention 'd before. By the time you have pafs'd through this beautiful Gallery, and are got to the further end of the fartheft Lobby, and turn back to take a Review of it, they have open'd a Door at the other end, beyond the Place where you firft enter'd, which difcovers a part of the Garden, where as you at once look thro' the Lobby you (land in, the Gallery, the Lobby at the other end, and the Garden, you have a Fountain there, which terminates the View. There is in this Palace another Gallery, (a little one) all paint- ed with Geographical Charts, fomewhat in the Manner of that very long one in the Vatican. In a Room adjoining is a Bed, in the form of a Concha Ma- rina, [Sea-Shell] with four Sca-Horfes at the Corners, Nymphs and Zephyrs at the Sides, with flying Cupids above. They are of Wood, all gilt over. This Bed was made at tiie Birth of the prefent Prince Colonna, for the Princefs his Mother to receive her Company upon that Occafion, where file fate like a Tethys or an Amphitrite. In one Apartment are filver Flower- pots, with Baffo-Relievo's, finely done, after Defigns of Raphael- At the Top of the Stairs, facing the Door of the great Hal!, is a Head of Medufa in Porphyry, which was found in the Ruins of Nero's Golden Houfe, to which they have given this Infcription, hi hac aurea 'Dotno memoriam Neronis hahes, non fa&a ; Medufa Caput, 7ion damna ; Monument um htiic folo datum flacare Medufas, nonferre Kerones. " la Rome: P a l.' C o l o n n a. 307 " In this golden Houfc, you have a Memorial of Nero^ not " his Atlions : thcUzzd oi Aleditfa, not her Mifchiefs : a Mo- " nument, that to this Ground it is granted, to make Medufa's " harmlefs, and not to fuffer Nero's." Befides the numerous fine Paintings, which are inthefeveral Apartments above, there are a great many in the Summer-Apart- ments below, with Statues, Bufts, Ballb-Relicvo's, and plea- fant Fountains. One of thefe Apartments is painted in Frefco with Land- skapcs, by Gafjp. Touffin: And another, with Sea-Storms, by Tempefia. 1 here is likewife a wreath 'd Pillar of Rojfo-Antico with little Figures and Foliage. Among the B. Relievo's, is that moft curious one o^ Homer' % Apotheofis or Confecration. It is to be feen in the Admiran- da, toward the latter end ; fo I forbear enlarging on it here. There are two or three Afcentsof Gardens behind this Palace. Here were the Baths of Conftantine, (as has been faid) ; and part of an old AqucduiT: ferves now as a Wall to part of the Garden. Here was likewife a Temple dedicated to the Sun, of which fomc vaft Fragments are now to be feen in one of the upper Gardens. A piece of a Cornice, with the Modiglions, &c. al- moft twelve foot fquare, all of one piece. A piece of a Cor/«- thian Capital of a vaft Size ; part of this was lately faw'd off. Part of an Architrave and Frieze, both of one Stone, alnioft fixteen foot long, all of white Marble. At \\\Q. Kccc^xon oi hinocentXlW. this Prince made a Mufical Entertainment in his Garden. The Mufick was upon two Bridges which lead from the Palace over a publick Street to the Garden. The Orange-Trees were hung with Lamps put in the hollow'd Rinds of Oranges, and ftuck among the Branches, as crowina; Fruit. During the Intervals of the Mufick, the Fireworks were play'd off" at each end of the Garden. Thefe Princes, the Colonna's, by virtue of their Office of Con- ftable, {Conteftabile, or Comesjiabilis, as I have lomewhcie \!ccw it in Latiri] afiii> at ibme of the publick Ceremonies, at the c right hand of the Pope. R r 2 The 3o8 Rome. Pal. Bracciano^ This is a very noble Family, and has produced feveral Popes^ Cardinals, and Generals, whofe Ritrats are hung in the great Hall on each fide the Baldacbino, or Canopy of State. Befides other great Revenues, the whole Town of Marino is theirs, where they have another fine Palace. hi the fame Tiazza de S. Apoftoliy oppofite to the Palace I va\. Brae- havc been fpeaking of, is that of the T>uca di Bracctano, built ciauo. by Bernini, lately a fmgular Treafure of Paintings, as itisftill of Sculptures, with which the Summer Apartments, conlifting of four Ground-Rooms, are finely fiU'd. The Paintings were purchas'd by the then Regent of France^ and carried away while we were in Rome. Such a beautiful Sight of Corregids I never faw, as were in this CoUcdion : — But, as thefe, and the reft of thofe admirable Piclurcs, have now ceas'd to belong to the Palace I am here fpeak- ing of, I fhall not enter into particulars of them : — They are now to be fcen nearer home : and to a true Lover of fuch things, it were well worth a Voyage to France to fee fuch fingular Ma- fter-pieces : feveral of them, they fay, did belong to our King Charles the Firft, and were, after his Death, bought and car- ried hence by the Queen of Sweden, and after her Deceafe, came into the hands of the Family Odefchalchi [now Dukes di Bracciano.'] — They are now got pretty well on their way back again towards England, where every Englifh Virtuofo cannot but wifli to fee them fafely lodg'd. I fhall only mention one of the Pidures, which is faid to be done by Mich. Angela, and pafles for an original Defign of his : — but it is not lb. — I accidentally obferv'd in the Duke of 'Parmds Colleftion an antique Cameo juft in the fame Attitude ; It is the Rape of Ganymede : It is a Imall Picture, and finely per- form'd. I have feen a larger one in England of the fame De- iign, and faid to be of Mich. Angela likewifc ; but 'tis nothing fo good as that I am fpeaking of. Among the Statues, there is a dying [or fleeping] Cleopatra : much in the Attitude of that in the Belvedere, and Villa de Me- dicis. Julius Cafar ftanding in his faccrdotal Habit, as Tontifex Ma.ximus. ' ,-.;.!' A Fannns with his Pipe. A Bull and a Cow, antique, and moft excellently perform'd. Whether Rome. P a l. B r a c c i a n o/_ 209 Whether this may be taken as a Proof of their Excellence, I know not i but, a Dog that was with us, and was remarkable for his Subtlety and Cunning, was dcceiv'd by them as much as the Birds were by the Grapes of Zeuxis ; for he bark'd eagerly, set the Ad- as if he was going to faftcn upon them. ''f"''''' Thefe are faid to have been made in allufion to the Cow and Bull that drew the Plow, with which the Foundation of Rome was mark'd out. This Ceremony in the marking out the Foundations of Cities was taken from the old Tufcans, whole Country, Etruria, is called the Mother of Superftition, \_Arnobius adv. Gent. Z,. i.] The Method of it was this : They yoked a Bull and a Cow together, the Bull on the right, the Cow on the left, or inner fide : It was called inner, becaufc the Courfe the Plow took, was towards the Jcft, by that means turning the Turf to the left or inner, and lea- ving the Furrow on the right or outer fide : The Compafs being thus mark'd out, the Foundation of the Wall was laid within it. He that held the Plow was Ctn^ius ritu Gabino, girt after the G/2^/W Manner ; which, according to fome, was with the Zi?^^ CGown] thrown over the left Shoulder, the right being bare^ according to others, part of it cover'd the Head, and the reft was girt about the Body, and drawn up and fhorten'd by the Cin- fture. cSee iy^rv/'wj upon the fifth and feventhc^w^/W>.] Fabretti, from an old Greek MS. gives us an Account of a Conceit which was couch'd under the yoking the Cow and Bull, in this manner. " That the Male was yoked on the Side *' toward the Countrey, the Female on the Side towards the " Town ; as denoting that the Males fhould be terrible to Fo- " rcigners, the Females fruitful to the Inhabitants; ax^i Tb$ fji.t» " apfsvas ro7t e^o) ylvi^cn (poSs^ui, ids H ^«AaaJ to?j IvS'ov " yortfjivs." In the next Room are, Apollo and eight of the Mufes ,• , the. ninth is in the Capitol. The Mules are antique, but not of the higheft Tafte. The Apollo is modern. Behind his Back is 'Pegafus, painted in Frefcoon the Wall. Between each of the Mules ai;e antique Pillars, of feveral. curious forts of Marble, with Bulls on the Tops of them. In the following Rooms are, Clitia, with the Sma-flowcr into which fhc was transform'd, . T.WQ^ JIG Rome.' P a l. R o s p i g l i 6 s i. Two beautiful Figures, called by fome, Caftor and Tollnx, by others, two Hymens-, by rcalbn of the Torches in their Hands. Ey thefe (lands a little Figure, holding an Egg in her hand, which thofe of the former Opinion call Leda ; thole of the later, fuppofe it to be a Lucina, or fome Goddels prefiding over Wo- men in Child-bearing J and that the Egg is no other than an Emblem of Fecundity. A mofl beautiful Venus, in the Attitude of that of Medicis, cloth'd with a delicate thin Drapery, moft agreeably coiiform- ing with the Naked, and even iliewing thro' it the form of the parts it covers. Another beautiful /^WJ/J", as coming out of the Bath. One of the Ttolemfs^ King of Egypt. A Faun, with a young (Joat on his back, admirable. A round Altar of white Marble, with a moft curious Baflb- Relievo upon it, reprefenting a Sacrifice to Bacchus, It is to be Icen in the Ad?niranda, fol. 44 and 45 . There is the lame Deilgn, but with the Addition of one Faun upon a large and beautiful Vale, in the Villa Gitiftiniani. This has more Marks of Age, and is probably the Original, but the other is antique too, and admirably pcrforrn'd. ^cd. Rofpi- I" ^^^ Palace of Duke RofpigUoJi, is a fine Pidure of Nic. giioii. 5Ptf/^/7w, reprefenting a Dance, and 77wf playing on a Harp. A Crucifixion, by Gu'tdo ; with a fine Marble Buft under it. S. Teter in Mofaic, by Th. Cocchtts. The Guardaroba told us that a thoufand Crowns had been lent upon it. There are fome antiqu<: Paintings, but of no great Style : — they look like Indian. On the Ciehng are painted the Rapes of Jupiter and Euro- pa, Neptune and Theophane, Tluto and Troferpina. There is a fine Bafon of Verd antique two Yards diameter ; and a Table of fine oriental Alabaftcr. At the Garden-Houfe, on the outfide, are fome good antique Baflb-Relievo's, Huntings of Lions, &c. On theCielingof the Portico is the famous Aurora oi Guido, fo well known by the Copies and Prints of it that are in Eng- land. At the Ends of the fame Portico are the Triumphs of Love., and of Virtue } by Tempe/la. Within Rome. Pal. Pamphilio: jn Within the Apartments of the Garden- Houfe arc. An Andromeda by Giiido, the fame as the Duke of T>evon- Jhire's ; the Colouring is warmer than that of his Grace's : but 1 know not whether 'tis better for that or no, or whether a fomewhat colder Colouring do nor full as well fuit a Figure in fuch a Situation ; expos'd naked, chain'd to a Rock in the Sea, expecting every Moment to be devoured by a horri- ble Monikr, which advances towards her with dreadful widc- opcn'd Jaws : The Colour of the Sea is turn d blackifh. Sanipfon pulling down T)agon's Temple upon the Thili- ft'tnes. David with Goliah's Head. In this Piece Saul is tear- ing his Garment as in vexation to fee David win the Hearts of the People. Adam and Eve ; he is giving her Leaves to cover her Naked- nefs. The Adam and Eve are byDotnenichinii the Animals by Tiola. S. Teter Martyr by Treziant. He is writing Credo on the Ground with his Finger dipt in his Blood. Rinaldc and Armida, by Albani. In the great and noble Palace of Pri-nce Vamphifio are abua- p^^ Pam-;^ dance of tine Paintings, by Titian, Han. Caracci, Guido, Lan- P"^'''"- franc, Tietro Temgino, and others, which 1 will not trouble the Reader with particularizing. There are Portraits of the two famous Lawyers, Bartolos^nd. Baldo, by Raphael. A very fine S.Latharhie, by Benvennto da Garofalo: The Ritratto of iw/y(9a«.r X. v.lio rais'd this Family, hy'DoK- 1)iego Velafques. [a^«,virfr<^j haif-length, very boldly painted. Another oi 'Donna Ol-'typm, that Pope's Sifter in-law, Fa- vourite and Govtrrncfs, by Stpw Gaetano.— — for a full Ac- coimt of this famcu^ Lady, fee her Life writtc ' . by the AbaaVe Giialdi. Among thofe by Han. Caracci, is a Safanna and the Elders^, the fame Dcfign as that ot the Duke of Devonfhire's. Two very fine and lari!;c Claude Lorains : One of them riepra- fents the Setting-Sun •■, a mcft lovely Rcpofe! Other Landskapcs by Gafpar TotifJ'inj Taul Brill y and fomc snoft elaborate Brughells^ ^But of tii^fe, enough. Cvat 211 R O M Ei R O M A N C O L L E G E. Romin Col- Over againft this Palace is the Roman College Ljefuits,'] ''s>-- where are two long Galleries, meeting in a right Angle, with R,e- pofitories of Curiofities and Antiquities from one end to the other. There are a good many Trifles among them, but the greatefl: part are very curious. The Collection was tirft begun by Father Kircher, but much increas'd by Fa. Bonanni, who has publil"h'd a large Account of them in feveral Books. There arc great Numbers of Urns, Infcriptions, Baflb-Relic- vo's, fcpulchral Lamps, and Lachrymatory Veflels : Abundance ofataSrTifJiccTccOTLf^ota to the Heathen Deities, in Marble, and other Materials. The Habits and Weapons of War of feveral remote Nations. Inftruments for Sacrifice, and other Utenfds of the anticnt Romans. The Habits of all the very numerous Religious Orders of both Sexes that are at this day, very prettily and freely painted, much about the fize of the Prints that are done after them, and pub- lifh'd in Father Bonanni'sBooks upon that Subjeft. An Infinity almoft of other Curiofities, artificial and natural, which are defcrib'd and explain'd by that learned Father, in his feveral Volumes. He is communicative and obliging, more in- deed than a Man almoft worn out with Labours and Years could be expcfted to be. cauihiai Cardinal Albani's Colledion of Statues, I;;.ifts, and Baflb- cM%ion. Relievo's, is very valuable. They are (I think) the Property of Cardinal Aleffandro-, the younger Brother, for there are two of them, both Cardinals, Nephews to Clement JA. The Elder is Annibaky who was made Camerlingo [Chamberlain] in the Time of that Pope. It is a Cuftom in the Court of Rome for a new-ele£lcd Pope foon after his Acceflion, to raile .o the degree of Cardinal, a Nephew of that Pope who had made him one So Don Alejfandro Albani (for fo he v/as cali'd before) was rais'd to that Dignity by Innocent XIIL whohimfdf was rais'd to it by Cle- ment XI. Some of the things I noted in the fine Collection I have mention'd, are as follov^'s. Otho, a Head ; rare, as arc his Medals, a natural Confequcnce of lo Ihort a Reign. A Sr/ac\' /:/z^ <.// _Pa^, j2o. ^u//a ^/u/Y/z. ^J'^A Ju/^^, '/r//??. P 3^3 J? ^2rO. _/^mnmodo vel cacus teneam, qtios abnego, mimmos. , Juv. Let Ifis angry S'lftrum fmitc my Eyes, So I, tho' blind, may keep the forfworn Prize. nlN^APOC*, a Buft. * j-/,,y, EniKOTPOS*. The Face of this is a good deal like what Names ate wc (CC oi SoCratCS. ' r»- ' [ • ' ' ;' i« Greek lm- Marc. Auremis Anatellon, urs, as I Scipio Africaniis. bu've written -_^ < -' them. '■Diogenes. ..,:,-,; ■: ,■,;, Euripides : two of them. Homer : four of them. > AUthefc are fomewhat like the famous Farnefe. One of them comes pretty near it in Good- neis. :; omitianus and T>omitia: The Medals of her are very rare, and of great Value. Nero., Nerva, and fome others of the Emperors. The Bufts of Philofophers in this CoUedion are fifty five in number. There are feveral Sarcophagi with fine Baffo-Relievo's j one of them is a Boar-hunting, very fine. A Lynx cut in a fort of Stone they call 'T'avonazza,\i\\id\ is naturally fpotted, and has a very agreeable EfFcftin theReprefen- tation of this fpotted Animal. Befides thefe mention'd, there are a great many others, very curious and valuable.' -They were not, when we faw them, fet up in the Cardinal's own Palace : The Gallery defigned for them not being ready. In the Talazzo Rufpoli is a long Vifto of Rooms very noble, VuL Rufpoli, with double Door-cafes of G'lallo Antico. Many of the Rooms are painted in Prefco, Cielings, and Walls. The great Stairs are of Greek Marble, each of one piece. In this Palace are a great many antique Statues, Bufts and Ballb-Rclicvo's j I fhall mention only a few. A large Buft of Nero. The three Graces. Julia Mammea, with a perfect Bob Pcruquc, '■plant ilia, with her Hair tied up behind, juft as our Ladies now tie up their's. A Baftb- Relievo of a Soldier taking kave of his Wife, upon his going out to War -, on one fide is a Serpent (the Symbol of ^_yEj culap ins) in :i Tree, as an Augury of Health. This Piece ' ' is much eftcem'd by the Curious. SileiMs, and younu Bacchus \ two of them. 'Didius julianuSy a Lawyer, who bought the EmpueJ Claudius 5 and Hadrian ; both w hole Figures. S f 2 Julia 2 1(5 Rome. Pal. Altieri; ytilia Tia, Wife of Septmius Severus, drcfs'd as an Idle, a ■- whole Figure. Several Fauni. Antoninus Tius, Commodus, and other Emperors, frequent elfev/herc. Tai. Fio- ii-j the ^Palazzo Fiorenza, Campo Marzo, in the C>fth'St Count. Some Portraits in Oil, by Bernini, a bold mafterly Manner : bur, Sculpture was his Excellency, as 'twas Mich. Angelo'%. Several other good Piclures and Drawings. sal. Aitieri. The Talazzo Altieri is a very large and magnificent Struc- ture. They fay there are in it three hundred fixty five Rooms. The Stair-cafe is efteem'd the grandcft in Rome. The Apart- ments are very noble, and richly furniih'd. The Door-cafes are of Sicilian Jafper. The Ciclings of fome of the Rooms are painted by Carlo Maratti, Nicola Berettoni., and Fran- cefco, or Fabricio Chiari., not known here fo well as Giofeppe Chiari is. One great Hall has part of its Cieling painted by Car. Marat, but was never fiiiifh'd : The* there is a Print extant of the wholeDefign, engrav'd by G/^row^tf Fr^/;'. There are a srcat many fine Pictures, by Claude Lorain, Salvator Rofay Thilippo Laura, Borgognone, Taolo Veronefe^ Andrea Sacchi, and other great Mafters. •_ .n ,;•: ■ There is a Ritratto of Z/Z/^w, by himfelf.-r ''"^. Another of a Boy, one T>omenico Jacovacci, faid to be of Raphael j but it feem'd to me more of Titian's Manner, In one Room is, what they call the Grotta finta, a Reprc- fcntation of a folitary Retreat, as for a Hermit ; with Rocks all round, and a Cave for his Rcpofe : The feveral parts are painted on Cloth, and difpos'd in a Scene-like manner, romantick enough. y^i. SaTelli. The Talazzo Savelli ftands within what was the Theatre of Marcellus^ a confidcrable part of which does now remain. The Fabrick is antient, as was the Family (now lately extind) which ijihabitcd it, being defccnded from the antient Romarh Sabelli, % . We Rome. Pal. Massimi. 317 We faw in the Court of the Palace fome antique Eaflb-Re- lievo's, aFightof Gladiators with a Lion, Bear, and Tiger. Two Sarcophagi of Marble, one with the Labours of Her- ciiles, the other of a Man combating a Lion ; a Deer under- neath. A Baflb-Relievo of Marc. AureUus after his Conqucfl: of the Sarmatians, and an Embaflador of theirs kneeling before him. This is much in the Manner of thofc on the Stairs in one of the Wings in the Capitol, and is fuppos'd to have been taken from the Arciis Tortiigallia, as thofe were. In the 'Palazzo MaJJimi are two curious Pieces of antique ^^'- MaiTimi. Mofaic, reprefenting Combats of the Retiarii and Secutores^. * ^oranAc- In one of them are written the Names of the Combatants, Ca-Jil^l°J^l^l>l' lendio and Aftianax ; the former being the Retiarius, and the Roman Ami~^ later the Secutor : And 'twas he that got the Victory, as the 5""'": Infcription tells us \_AJlianax vicin tho' the other is reprefented there to have fo much the Advantage, as to have thrown his Net quite over his Advcrfary. There are like wife other Mofaics of Gladiators, and one of a Crocodile devouring a Man. A fine Sacrifice in Baffo-Relicvo. And Another Baflb-Relievo in Mofaic. Performances of this kind are what we very rarely meet with. Some of the Paintings that were found in the Sepulchre of the Nafonian-Y^imWy, commonly call'd Ovid's Tomb. A curious fcpulchral Urn of Porphyry, with a Cover, found within a large Vafe. Some of Pietro Santo Bartoli's Defigns after the Antique, finely copied by Cardinal MaJJimi. There is in this Palace a whole Book of thofc done by ^^r/^/i himfelf ; but the Keeper ofjhem wasoutof the way, fo that we did not fee them. There is a Ritratto by Raphael, two by Titian, and one by Cuido i and a Ritratto of the Cardinal, by Carlo Marat ti. An (iyEfctilapiuSy and Telejphorus, with a Drefs like a Ca- puchin. On the Outfide of the Houfc, is a Hunting in Baflb-RclicvO; and Paintings to the Street, by Tolydore. In a Portico within the Court is a great Statue of Tyrrhns, in Very fine Armouj:. There ^iS Rome. Pal. Massiml There Is painted by Terino del Vaga in another Portico, Ju- piter drawing up a Groupc of Figures by a Rope or Chain, which feem to be the Gods and GoddelVes in Homer, whom Jupiter challeng'd to take one end of the Chain while he held the other,. -o defying them all to ftir him from his Place, and undertaking to draw them and the whole World at pleafure ; and then to fix the Chain round the Top of Olympus, and leave them all hanging at it. Macrobius makes a moral Application of it in the following Words Invenietur prejfms intuenti afummo "Deo ufque ad iiltimam rerum facem Connexio : ^ h£c eft Homeri Catena Aurea, quam pendere de caelo in Terras D e u m juffijfe commcmorat. "There will befouiH, by him that obferves " attentively, from the fuprcme God, quite down to the mean- *' eft of things here below, a Connexion, which ties them all " together by mutual Bonds, and is in no part broken, or inter- " ruptcd. And this is that Golden Chain of Horner which he " mentions to hang down, by Jupiter's Command, from Hea- " ven to Earth." There is a fair fcpulchral Infcription in Marble, which Signor Ficaroni made a Prcfcnt of to the Marquis Camillo MaJJimi^ at the digging up whereof he was prefent,and bought it of the Work- men : It was found in a Field where they were plowing on the fide of the Via Latina, with the whole Urn it belong'd to, and within the Urn was a round Vafeof Alabafter, wherein among the burnt Bones was a Gold Chain, two Gold Rings, and a Gold Medal of Alexander Se-verus. Signor Ficaroni was follicitous I fhould tranfcribe the Infcrip- tion, that I might be a Witnefs of his being in the right in his Correftion of the Reading of this Inicription, publil'h'd by Fa^ iretti, who has put SILIANO inftead of SITTIANO. The Infcription, as I trnnfcrib'd it, is as follows. DIS Rome. Capitol. |I9 dIs manibvs c . seio m . f qvir ? calpvrnio qvadrato sittiano procos. proving . narbonens . praet peregrino trie. plebis_qyaestori PROVING . AFRIG . Ill VIRO CAPITALI cvivs GORPVs hIc crematvm est. It appearing by the Infcription that the Body of this Great Perlbn was Burnt in that Place [Via Latino] and that a Gold Mcdzloi Alexander Severtts^^iS found in the Urn ; Fica- roni thence argues, that the Praftice of burning of dead Bodies continued after the time of the Antonines, (contrary to the CCMiimon Opinion of the Antiquaries) for it was not till after the Antonines that Alexander Severus was Emperor. In the Houfc of the Gavalier del Tozzo is a Gopy of the Nozze Aldohandine, commonly call'd the Grecian Wedding, which I Ihall take notice of in its proper Place -, and another, of the Figures on the Vas Tiarherinum, both by Nicola T'otiffin : The later is in Chiaro Ofctiro. ': The Seven Sacraments, and feveral hiftorical Subjeds, by the fame Author. He liv'd a confidcrable time in this Family. Be- fides thefe Seven Sacraments, and thofe already mentiond at Taris, I was told there is another Sett done by him in RomCy at the Palace oftheMarquefs Buffalo, which I did not fee. I fhall conclude what I have been faying of the Palaces, with Capitol; fome account of that publick one of the Capitol: The Place where the Religion of the ancient Romans made its nioft fplcn- did appearance, and now the Refidence of the Publick ]uftice. Tlic prefent Gapitol (call'd by the People Campidoglio) ftands upon the fame Hill v/hcrc the famous old one was^ and part of it is built upon fonic of the very fame Foundations. The Struc- ture of this is very noble, chiefly defign'd by Mich. Angela. The Print that is extant of this ftatcly Fabrick makes it need- Jefs for me to be particular in the Defcription of it. The JIO Rome. Capitol. The Mai'ble Trophies which grace the Baluftrade on the Para- pet at each fide of the Entrance, are commonly called the Tro» phies of Mar'tHs : They were brought from the Cajiello delt Aequo, Martia, to which they long ferv'd as an Ornament, and were of late Years plac'd in the Capitol, ranging with the Statues of Cajior and Tollux^ the Colonna Migliaria, and other Orna- ments. Bellori would change the long-receiv'd Appellation, and en- deavours to prove them to be the Trophies (not of Mantis^ but) of Trajan. Which he' argues, Firft, for that the Cajiello dell' Acqua Martia was reftor'd and enlarg'd by Trajan : And further, that the Sculpture is of the Manner of that Emperor's time, and particularly of his Pillar : That thefe Trophies refemble thofe that are on the Pillar, and that the particular Shields are the fame with thofe that are feen on feveral Medals ftruck in Honour of that Emperor. But, in the Arch at Orange likewife, which was certainly crcc red in Honour of C Alarms, the Trophies are the fame as thefe 5 the Shields, &c. of the fame Manner : And on one of the Shields is infcrib'd [MARIO; ] as a Friend of mine, who carefully obferv'd thoft Ornaments, has afluc'd me. If therefore thefe Shields, (i^c. do refemble thofe on the Arch at Orange, as well as thofe on Trajan's Pillar, that part of Bellori' s Argument is of lefs force : And fuppofe Trajan did repair the Cajiello dell' Acqua Martia (tho' there is a Difpute even concerning that Matter) yet it does not necelVarily follow, that Thofe muft have been his Trophies which were plac'd there. Fabretti, in his learned Remarks upon the Trajan Pillar, de- livers his Opinion firmly and vigoroufly, that thefe Trophies are not to be afcribed to Trajan ; denying even the aflcrted Refem- blancc between thefe, and thofe which are ieen upon the Pillar ; and for Goodncfs of Work, will allow no Comparifon be- tween them ; fo that, upon the whole, there docs not yet ap- pear any convincing Reafonto the contrary, why the old recciv'd Appellation of thefe Trophies may not yet be continued. The Equeftral Statue of Marcus Aureliiis^ in Copper, is the fincft now known to be in the World, and has the fineft Situa- tion : It is placed in the midft of the Piazza or Area of the Capi- tol, from which e.xaltcd Station the Emperor fecms to take a Survey Rome. Capitoi:.' 32.1 Sui'Vcy of the City, and with his Hand extended to be now gi- ving Laws to Rome, This noble Statue in the midftof the Area j Thofe of Cajior and 'Pollux, with their Horfes CColoIlalj in white Marble, on the fides, at the top of the Afcent, and tw^o acrifice are exprefs'd. There is one in Marble at Florence ; but this, as I faid, is in Copper. The Meffenger {Cn. Martius'] pulling the Thorn out of his Poot, which he endured, and would not lofe fo much time as to pull it out, 'till he had deliver'd the Letter he was lent with to the Senate. This is in Copper too. There is one at the Villa Borghefe in Marble, in the fame Attitude and Size. He feems to be a Youth not above ftxtcen, with fuch a Slendernefs of the Arms, as befpeaks him to be a good deal fliort of manly Growth, If fuch were the Peribn of the Meflenger, that diligent Expedi- tion, and Conftancy of Mind, were the more remarkable. The Fafti Confulares, engrav'd in Marble : There are great Chafms in them : The middle part is moft perfed. A very fine Medaglione in Marble, of JSIithridates, King of Tonttts, Profile. A fine Head of Brutus the Conful, in Copper. A Statue of i/(?rc«/^j in Copper, with the Club in one hand, and Apples in the other, bigger than the Life. Some Remains of Gilding ftill appear on it. A 2i6 Rome: Capitol^ A Marble Statue of Cicero, at leaf! fo call'd ; but the Coun» tenance is not like the Bufts or antique Intaglio's they elfewhere flicvv of him. On his left Cheek is a broad and flattifh Excre- fcencc, with a little round one riling again above it, which is for the Cicer, Cthe Pea, 3 from which he had the Name of Cicero. Some antique Meafures in Marble, which were for Corn, Wine, and Oil. They feem intended to be in the Nature of Standards, being too unhandy for common ufc. That part of the Capitol which fronts you at your firft En- trance into the great Area, is the Refidence of that Magiftrate, who is now called The Senator of Rome ; and has under him three Judges, one for criminal, and two for civil Affairs. In the Hall of this part are the feveral Tribunals for thefc Judges. I faw them one day fitting on civil Affairs j the Parties- concern'd telling their own Stories themfelves to the Judges. The Side-wings are for the Confervatori di Roma, to meet in upon their Bufinefs 5 part of which is, to take cognizance of Abufes in the Markets, as to Weight, Meafure, or Price i and to take care of the Antiquities of Rome, the Walls, and the Aqucdufts. I muft not leave the Capitol without mentioning the Rtipes Tarpeia, \Tarpeian Rockl to which Ficaroni brought us, to convince us of the Miftake of Father Montfaucen, who fays there is little Precipice left -, and of another very great Wri- * Bp B«mf,ter *, who reprefents it as what a Man might jump down without danger . What hefhew'd is on your right hand, as you face the Capitol, and not far from the Talazzo Caffarelli; he affirms that he meafur'd it, and found it to be eighty Talms [that is, fixty Foot] above ground, as it now is, befidcs what is •hid of it with Rubbifh at the bottom. Whether his Meafure is exad or not, I do not know -, but it ismanifeftly fo high, that no Man that was not quite mad, would take fuch a defperate Leap. After what has been faid of the Palaces of Rome, I muft add fomcwhat of the Villa's ; feveral of which are within the Walls. Rus in nrbe in a literal Scnfe. In England, the Nobility generally make their Scats in the Country the moft magnificent, and content themfelves with little more than mere Convenicncies in Town 5 but here it is juft the reverfci the City-Houfe is much greater, as well as generally Rome. Villa de Medici, ^ly generally more fplcndid than the Villa, which is only intend- ed for a ihort Retreat in the hot Sealbii. The Gardens therefore of thele Villa's have in them great Numbers of fhady tall Trees and high Hedges, abundance of Fountains, and thofe forts of Water- works which they call Scherzid'Acquay [Sports or Plays of Water] partly as the Con- trivance of them is humorous, and the Play of Fancy, and partly as they are often employ'd to play Tricks with the Com- pany ; but rarely with any other than Servants i for, the Ita- lians pique themfelvcs fo much upon Decorum, that they are cautious of giving fuch Jefts as they would not care to take : how- ever, a Livery, they think, will bear a Shower well enough, which a finer Suit would not. But thefe Scherzi d'Acqua have likewife a real ufe, for laying the Dull, and cooling the Air. The Statues infome of thefe Villa's are very numerous, and do exceedingly enliven thofe fhady Retreats ; fo that a Man can never be faid to be alone there, if he can be content with filent Company : And a Perfon that is a Lover of Sculpture, or Anti- quities in general, may be moft agreeably entertain'd in thofe Places, and have abundance of Queries anfvver'd, without a word fpeaking. The Villa de Medici ou ihc Monte Tincio Canciently Collati- villa de' Me- nus'l is a precious Magazine of Sculpture, both for Statues and ^''^'' BaflTo-Relievo's. In the Portico of the Palace of this Villa, juft frontin<^ the Entrance, is a curious Vafe of white Marble, excellently well preferv'd, as well as finely perform'd : It rcprefents Iphi- genta going to be lacrific'd, with Agamemnon, Ulyjfes, and other Figures encompafling the Vafe. It is to be ieen in the Admiranda. The fame Portico is fet round with fcveral Statues, much larger than the Life, moft of them in a very great Style, to which they give doubtful Names, which I fpare repeating. As you go out of this Portico into the Garden, arc two great Lions in white Marble, one on each fide the Stairs. One of them was made by Flaminius Vacca, of whom mention has been made before : One half of the other (as fays the fame Vacca) i. c. one fide of it is antique, for it was a Mezzo-Relievo only; but John SeranuSy a Sculptor of Fiefoli, having carv'd the ^i8 Rome. VilladeMedicl the othci: part of the Marble, made the Lion foUd and entire. Afterward (lays he) by order of the Great Duke, I made a whole one hke it. He fpeaks very modeftly, for his is much the better of the two. At a little diftance from the Stairs is a Fountain, adorned with three fine Statues in Copper of John de Bologna ; one is the Mercury (landing on one Leg, and pointing upwards, of which are fcveral Copies in England. The fecondisa -A/(?rj. The third they there zAV Saturn-, going to eat one of his Chil- dren i but it ismorehkely tohzz.Silenus, :i\\e multis minimam pofco, clamavit, & unam. Lib. vi. to fhield the laft Her Mother, over her, her Body caft : This one, fhe cries, and that the leaft, O fave ! The leaft of many, and but one I crave. Sandys. A Horfe is brought among them prancing i for fome of the Sons were (according to Ovid) at their Exercifes on Horfeback, when they were ftruck by the angry Deities. Therefore iW and were bought by the Great Duke Ferdinand. Terrier has engrav'd them, not much to their advantage ; I mean that Plate moft particularly where they are all feen toge- ther, which is very flight, but has enough to ihew the general Defign : He has moreover added Apollo and 'Diana in the Air, fhooting at them, which Izdfzxhtx Alontfaucon intoaMiftakc, and Gronoviits likewife, who fpeak of thofe Figures as a part of the Work itfclf : And fome curious Friends of mine have by the Sight of that Print, been naturally led into a Suppofition, that the Work muft be in BafTo-Relievo, They likewife taking the Apollo z-Cidi 'Diana for part of it, and well knowing it was not likely for Statues to be fo fufpended in the Air. On another fide of the Garden is the dying Cleopatra, much in the Attitude of others already fpokcn of. It is an excellent Figure, of a very great Style: The Head, I was told, is modern, but is very good. A little further, is a Coloflal Roma Triumphans. From this Statue, all along that fide of the Garden, leading back again to the Palace, are Statues rang'd along the outfide Wall of two Porticoes or Galleries, [in the fame Line] and BaiVo- Relievo's inferted in the Wall. There are many of them to be feen in the Admiranda towards the beginning. Out of one of thefe, Raphael feems evidently to have taken that Groupc of the Ox and Topa, &c. in the Cartoon oiTaul ZlwA Barnabas at Lyfira. Within thefe Portico's, on each fide, are Rn.ngcs of Statues^ fomc exceeding good, but very much ncglcfled. That fide of the Palace fronting the Garden is in a manner in- tircly fill'd with Statues and Ballb-Rclicvo's. At one Corner of the Palace I obfcrv'd a votive Infcription to Bacchus, which is as follows, "^' • LIBERO Rome. Villa Giusti ni an i. Jjr libero patri sancto sack sex • caelivs prImItivvs et publicia • antvlla voto svscepto D. D. Within the Palace are a great many fine Statues ; an antique Copy of one of Niobe's Daughters. A Venus coming out of the Bath. The Duke of Rich* miondy I think, has a Copy of this in Scagliola. Marfyas tied up to a Tree to be flead : exceeding good. An Apolloy leaning againft the Stump of a Tree, with his right Arm brought over his Head ; as beautiful a Figure as can be feen, and were well worthy to accompany the Venus de Me- dicis. I forbear adding feveral others I obferv'd there. In one part of the Garden, within a fhady Grove of Lic'mi \llex\ is a Mount where they fay was once a Temple of the Sun. On the outer Gates of this Palace, which are cover'd with Metal, they fhew the Marks of two or three Cannon-Balis which that Heroine Chriftina Queen of Sweden fliot off from the Caftle of S. Angela for Diverfion, about a Mile over the Houfes. In the Villa Gmftiniani *, by S. John Latetan, are abun- yi'la Giufti* dance ofBufts, feveral fine Statues, Baflb-Relievo's and Infcrip- "'^^^p^^ /^ tions. another Vi!!a One I obferv'd, which was made to a moft highly efteem'd flJ^^S! VV ife. juft without CONIVGI SANCTISSIMyE, CASTISSIM^^ '^' ^"''J '^'^ INCOMPARABILI FOEMINARVM. IZtfinefi Another to a Wife who had liv'd with her Husband forty 'W^ ^"•^^ eight Years. Another to a Son, the Lois of whom is much Z'w 7h^w/. lamented ; FILIO OPTLMO, PIISSIMO> DVLCISSIMO, SODALI DESIDERATISSIMO, VIXIT ANNIS XVI MENSIBVS V DIEBVS XXI. PARENTES INFELICISSIML Uu 3 Another 33i Rome. VillaGiustiniank Another to a Daughter, wherein the odd Hours of her Life arc exprefs'd. FlLIiE PIENTISSIMiE QUiE VIXIT ANNIS XIX MENSIBUS X DIEBUS XXIIX HOR. VIII. One finds in thefe, and many other fepulchral Infcriptions,. the Ablative Cafe us'd in cxpreillng the Continuance of time in- ftead of the Accufativc. Among th*-. Bufts, I obfcrv'd one called there C. Alarius, but Ficaroni told me it is of L. Sulla. Among the Statues, there is one of M. Antony^ and another oi yujlinian the Emperor. I have already occafionally mention'd a mofl: curious Vafe thai is in this Villa, whenlipokeof an antique Altar at the !P^/^;r^;tf Bracciano, which is of the fame Defign. There arc tour other fmaller antique VafcswithBafTo-Relie- vo's on one fide only of each 5 they ftand at the four Corners of a little Square, formed by Efpaliers. They reprefent Hercules in the Garden of the Hefperides. A Triton carrying off a Nymph. A Faun picking a Thorn out of a Satyr's Foot. The fourth feems to be Venus and Adonis. I have here given Defigns of them. There are feveral other Vafes in this Garden, with Baflb- Relievo's round them, which are not fet up. On one of thefe is a Basket full of TriapJiss. ■' - .; The Palace of this Villa is but fmall, and they therefore call it thc^alazzino ov ^alazz£tto,th:itis, the Little Palace; there is in it an antique Baflb-Relievo, which is valued not (b much for the Workmanfhip, for that is inditfcrcnt enough, but for the Subje(!l: : It is a Votmn to Aglibolus and Malachbelus, Deities of the '•Palmyreans, by which are undcrftood the Sun and Moon 5 for the Moon was Ibmetimes worfliip'd as a mafculine Deity^ [_Lunus.'] There is under it an Infcription in the 'Palmyrean Language, and another in Greek. I let the former alone, (not nndcrftanding the Character) and tranfcrib'd the later, together with an Interpretation of it by Mr. Span, which they fhcw there. with it 5 which are here annsx'd. ; I. 'J Mii ■it • ■■■ \\ ArAIBCDACD KAI AAAAAXBH AO) TTATPQOIC eeOIC KAI TO CITNON APTYPOYN CYN HANTI KOZAACD ANeeHMLAYP- H AIOA CDPOC ANTIOXOY AAPIANOC TTAAAAYPHNOCGKCDNIAICDNYneP CCDTHPIAeAYTOY KAIT? 1M3IOY r'?%/. _^^J?,. ^^ ^^t.^.i'n,/tf{/uAr i^w/^. ^a/k' /W/z'^t^ />///'' Vz/v^z /////jUn/am', at^i^?/^. Rome. V i l l a L u d o v i s i a. 33 j Mr. Span goes on, Era Alexandri pro confuetudine Talmy- renormn& Syrorum infiulpta hoc in Monument o^indicit annum Era Chriftl communis CCXXXIV. Menjis i-ero Teritius refpondet noftro Febriiario. F. Montfaucon has publifh'd what feems intended for this Va- tum m his great Work, Vol. IV. His Draught of the Figures is taken from Spon. The Figures arc there without Arms, which arc not wanting in the Stone: Whctlier they are of late addition or no, I will not take upon me to have obferv'd. Some other Differences there are between his Rcprefentation of it and mine; but as I rook mine from the Stone itfelf withmy own Hand, Fll abide by the Truth of it. In one part of the . Garden I obferv'd a Stone infcrib'd with this Diftich. (^yEgeria efi qttaproebet aquas, 'Dea grata Camanis, Ilia Num£ conjunx conjiliumque fuit. ^^geria, Numa'% Counfellor and Spoufe, The Mufes much-lov'd Nymph, this Stream beftows. This is fuppos'd to have been brought from the Fons ^_/E' geria, which is now fhewn without the City not far oft' the Circus of Caracalla, where it was faid N.uma 'Pompilius had familiar Converfe with the Nymph. In the Villa Ludovijta are a Multitude of Statues. The ^.'^'^ Ludo- few 1 fliall trouble the Reader with, are as ibllows. ^' '"' In the Garden, a moft genteel Statue of Meleager, fitting, a fmall Horn in his right Hand, which refts upon his Knee % his left Hand refts upon the Rock he fits on. There is a very fine Contraft in the Turn of the fcveral parts of the Figure. A Leda, Cupid, and Swan : The Swan is bufy with Cupid, a parte poft. A Centaur teaching Apollo. Silenus is by, with the Uter *, * ^ sm of Venus newly cgxjje out of the Bath, and Cupid by her with a '^°/^);f °' "'' 1 OWel. carry Wine in. In this Villa arc two Palaces or Plcafut'e-houfcSj a larger and a kfs. In the larger are an Apollo, hilars 334 Rome. VillaLudovisia. Mars at Repofe. 'Frt/>/>///j' the young Senator, and his Mother cajoling him to difcovcr what was done in the Senate. Under it is this Infcrip- tion. Mei-j'Aaos XTi(pctvd Ma3'«T7iJ evroiei. " Menelaiis., the Scholar of J'/-f/>?w«//i", made it." Arria tlwA Tortus: He is ftabbinghimfelf with one hand, and holds up his dying Wife (who liad fhewn him the Example) with the other. Her finking Body hangs fo loofe as if every Joint were relax 'd. Martial gives us a fine Epigram upon the" Sub- jccT: J Cafta fno Gladium cum traderet Arria Pceto Gluem de vifceribus traxerat ipfa fuis. Si qua fides, Vnlnus quod feci non do let, inquitt Sed quod Tu fades, hoc mihi, Poetc, dolet. XAHien faithful Arria pluck'd the reeking Sword -/ From her chafte Breaft, and gave it to her Lord i This Wound, faid fhe, gives me no Pain, but I Feci that by which my Tortus is to die. An Agrippina: A Venus : The Drapery admirable in both. A oracular Head, in Rojfo Antico, with Holes at the Eyes -and Mouth. A Tlufv c^uy'm^ oK Troferpina i by Bernini. In the Talazzetto, or lefler Plcafure-Houfe of the Villa, are, A Statue of Nero in the facerdotal Habit, with the 'Patera in his right Hand, and a Scroll in the left. Egeria. Mars. Two 'Dacian Slaves, with Breeches reaching down to the Feet, and tied about the Ankles. On the Ciclingof theHall is an y^«r^rares and Entellus of Virgil. This Baflb- Rclievo reprefents only the upper Half of the Figures;, but Raphael, in aDefignofhis, (of which a Print is extant) has ad- ded the reft, and made fome Alteration in the Contrail of tlic Arms. The Villa Talombara is by fome fuppos'd to be in the Place, viiia Piom- where the Palace or Garden of Mecanas was. Others lay that tara. here 33^ Rome. V i l l a P a l o m b a r a. here was pcirt ot Nero's Gold: i Houfc, ruin'd by Vefpajlan '^ and where afterwards was a part of Titus's Baths. Here we law a beautiful Trunk of an y^ But there is fo vaft a Number of the fcenical Masks, rcprefented in antique Sculpture, and in Terra Cotta, (particularly on their Lamps, to which they were a moft common Ornament, the Mouth-part of the Mask being the place the Wiek of the Lamp came thro') and many differing from others, only in fome Imall Circumftance, that it is hard to de- termine particularly. A Buft of Jupiter Serapis in black Stone, a grand Style.. A fine Bacchante, &c. Baflb- Relievo. A lovely Statue of Aritinous. A dead Ram cut open, with the Bowels falling out, very good j all the parts hang very loofe. Near the Entrance into this Villa, there's a Boat in Stone, which they fay is antique, fuppofed to have been a Votum : Its Rojlrum is a Boar's Head. Villa Conti. hi the V}Ua Contt were the Baths of Helena the Emprcfs, Mothci: of Conjlantine, of which there arc now fome Remains, ^ ' ' v. :: Thelb Rome. V i l l a C h i g i. 3^9 Thcfc Baths were fupplied by the Claudian Aquedud. What now appears of them confifts of twelve little Apartments, each commu- nicating with the other, and incrufted with a hard Compofition, as the Tifchia Mirabile near Bay a : They were formerly co- ver'd with Arches. At the farther End [not at the Entrance, as advanc'd by fome] is a large Stone with the foUo^viag Infcrip- tion : There is a break in the Stone, as here reprcfcnted. D.N. HELENA VE>^VG MAT *venavg. AVIA . BEATISI THERM( Hard by is another to the Wife of Septimius Severus. IVLIAE DOMNAE AVG MATRI AVG • N ET CASTROR. The Villa Ch'tgt is a fmail one, but remarkable for the great villa Chigi, Variety of the Scherzi d'Acqua. A Man had need walk very warily, and diftruft every Stone he fets his Foot on, to avoid being wafhed by fome or other of the many fecret Pipes, that are framed fo as to open and fpout out Water, if you tread in fome ■particular Places ; and are fo dircded, as unavoidably to give you a wetting. Within the Talazetto we faw, The original De- figns of Bernini for S. Teter's Chair, and the Dodors of the Church that fupport it. An extravagant Triapus, with another hanging from it, and Bells affix'd. This, according to /^^r<^r»w/, us'd to be carried by ; the Women in procefllon, Faecimditatis gratia. An antique Statera Romanay having iquare Chains to the Scale, wrought after the fame manner as the Chains of our Watches, and a little Buft for the Weight, as that at the Bar- berine Library, already mention'd. Part of a hollow'd Cane, five Inches diameter, X X 3 Some 340 Rome. VillaCasali, ^c. Some monftroLis large Bones: A Tooth, &c. faid to be hu- man. An intirc Mummy., very finely adorn'd, which they fay was a Queen of <:^yEgypt. The Bed, or Couch it is laid on, is fup- ported by Animals of that Country. On the Monte Celio, [under the Side of which lies the old ^ifcina] in a Vineyard, is an old Grotta, which has an antique Piece of Painting on the Cieling, confifting of Portraits, Fe- ftoons. Animals, &c. much decay 'd. They fhew'd us there a wafh'd Drawing which had been made after it. Villa Qfaii. ^t the VHU Cafd'i [in the Portico at the Entrance] is a very fine Antinous, dreiVd as a BaccPms : ItAvas found in feveral Pieces, which they have put together. There are other Fragments of Statues, &c. which were broken, as they fay, by the Zeal of the primitive Chrijiians, and made ufe of to fill up in making Walls, &c. The Mortar is now flicking to fome of them. Within the Talazetto is a Buft of Julia Mafa, with the Marks oftweive Rays that had been ftuck about her Head, in the fame manner as is fometimes ftill pradifed upon the Statues of the B. Virgin. She is drefs'd as the Goddefs Tudicitia, in a Veil. A large Statue of Ceres, with a thin Drapery clinging about the Breafts : She has Ears of Corn in her Hand, A Country-Man with a Kid, &c. wrap'd in the Skirt of his Drapery. Bacchus with the Tiger, and a Satyr. In the Garden is an antique Metaof a Circus ; antiently be- longing, as is moft likely, to the Circus Maximus, which is near this Villa } and in this Villa it was found. A Baflb-Relicvo of a Father, Mother, and Daughter, all to- gether in one Stone : There is no Infcription to declare whom they reprefcnt. viiia'Bor- The noblc Villa Borghefe is juft out of Town, 'tis but ghefe. at the diftance of a little Mile from the Tarta Flammia, 3nd Icfs from the other parts of the Walls of Rome : yet we were oblig'd to have our Pedes [Bills of Health] for fo fhorr en Ex- curfion, clfc they w ould have made a di/iiculty to have admitted us again at the Gate upon our Return. ■-;■.': :: This Rome. Villa Borghese. 341 This Villa is three Miles in compafs, with a noble Palace in the middle. I think it is the moft magnificent, and the Parts dilpofed with the greateft Gufto of any I law in Italy. There is liich an agreeable Variety of Walks and Vil^o's, Woods of Ever-greens of various forts, Fountains and Statues in vaft abundance, as makes the Profpeft extremely entertaining : It is indeed a perfect Country, cut out into various Scenes of Pleafures. Befides the vaft Number of Statues that are in the Gardens, and within the Palace, the outer Walls of the Palace are in a manner entirely fpread over with Statues and Ballb- Relievo's. Among the reft, is a fine Figure of Curtius on Horfeback, as leaping into the Gulph, in AltiJJimo-Relievo : The Rider and the Horfe too feem prone and eager for the meritorious Leap. This Piece was found near the Place where the famous Leap was taken, in the Campo Vaccina Whatever the Lake once was, it has been long fmce fill'd up ; and a Church now ftands in, or near adjoining to the Place, and goes by the Name of S. Maria Liber at rice. Among a Multitude of other curious Pieces of Sculpture within the Palace, are, Two fine Baffb-Relievo's, reprefenting nuptial Dances : They are publifh'd in the Admiranda. A Vafe fupported by the three Graces. The Gladiator : The famous Original of that at Hampton- Court-, and the others which are in England: It was made by AgafiaSy the Son of 'Dojitheus, an Ephejiizn ; as the Infcription Ihews, which is in thefe Words, AFASIAS AQSIGEOT E-t-ESIOS EnOIEL Silenus and Bacchus in Marble : The fame as that Copper- one already niention'd in the Villa de' Medici, with this diffe- rence only, that the Stump the other refts againft, is adorn'd with Vine-Leaves, ea. — » ■ for, as a Goddefs, flie Shall e^'cr be cftecm'd by me. VVc fee too, in the Statues, (bcfidcs the Countenance) the Habits of thofe Times, Civil and Military, which gives us a com- plcat Idea of the whole Perfon, and in that refpec^ makes every Portrait a Hiftory-piece, as giving us a HiOory of the Habits of thofe Times : I mean Hiftory as oppos'd to Fable ; for the Habits in the Portraits of late Ages, whether in Sculp- ture or in Painting, are for the moft part merely fabulous, and fhew a Perfon to After-ages in a Drels and Mien, fuchasthey who were acquainted with him never faw him in, and if they had, would pollibly not have known him. The Mafters that firft introduc'd the Change, had doubtlefs their Rcafons for it, (as this perhaps for one, that the modern Habits are nox. pit to- refqtie enough 5 ) and fuch Reafons may have their Weight as to a Piclurc in general, but thereby we lofe a principal End pro- poled in a Portrait, the Rcprefcntation of the Whole Terfon. As the Statues give us the Pleafure of feeing the Perfons of thefe great Men, fothe Baflb-Relievo's give us authentick Infor- mation of their Cuftoms ; in their Wars, their Triumphs, their Sacrifices, their Marriages, Feaftings, Funerals, and many other Particulars. And in Thefe, indeed, the learned Antiquary will find the greatcft Variety to his purpofe i tho' in the Statues there be a great deal of Learning too. In them we fee the particular Symbols of the feveral Deities j and again, the feveral Symbols of the fame particular Deity, whether as worfhip'd in different Nations, or under different Attributes in the fame Nation. Wc fee the frolickfome Humours of fome of the Great Perlbns ; an Emperor perhaps rcprclented as a Gladiator, oz zn Hercules i an Emprcfs as an lole. In which cafe, tho' the proper Habit of the Emperor or Emprcfs muft of necefTity be laid by, yet tliat of the atlumcd Perfon or Charadcr, under which fuch Empe- ror or Emprcfs is reprefcntcdp is ftridly obferved by the Sculptor, with- J%. j»V5- j/.^aru/o- i^uc/tf S^<-i/ . '^4- ^cW//l^W ^a/ J^/7i\'W ^ f/^ //'Vvf^v//^y/ ('/'///<'^^j/At^^w.j4^i^ //^^/^a-^- Rome. Villa Borghese. 345 without indulging his Fancy in imaginary unmeaning Orna- ments, and lb he ftill takes care to keep to his Text. By the great Dil'agreement there is among tlie Antiquaries and Criticks concerning the Latus Clavus, and the very differ- ing Accounts, thofe who take upon them to defcribe it, give of it, it fliould fcem that it was fome Ornament, either woven in the Garment, or very thinly embroider'd on it, fo as not to come properly within the Province of the Sculptor j elfe in luch a Multitude of Reprefcntations of the ieveral forts of the Roman Garments, as we fee in the antique Statues, one would think fo diftinguifhing an Ornament as that was, muft have been found, and the Matter long ago put beyond dilpute ; and the rather, if it was a didind and feparate Ornament of itfelf, as Ficaroni would, have it, and did affirm it to be. What he fhew'd us for it, was not unlike a Shoulder-Bclt, but that it feemed to confift of feve- ral Folds, and to hang the contrary way, and not fo low ; lying obliquely acrofs the Breaft, over the left Shoulder, and under the right Arm-pit -, and one part of it, (or what feemed to be fo) hanging down upon the left Breaft, from under that part which went quite acrofs. Some of them appear'd as if tuck'd into the Tunick about the Stomach, i have given a Draught of each, ta- 'ken asexadly as I had Time and Opportunity to do them, which will give a more diftinft Idea of them than any Words I can ufe. That which is here reprcfented N° i. is a Drawing I made after a Buft of Annius Verus in Card. Alexander Albania CoUe- ftion, already fpoken of. Some others, that I likewife took Draughts of, differ very little from this. That N° 2. is after a Buft of Scipio Africanus in the Pal. Rufpoli. Since my Return home, I obferv'd upon a curious Buft, which my Lord Malpas brought from Rome, one fo much differing in the Difpofition of this Ornament from both thefe, and from all others that I remember to have feen, that I have, by his Lordftiip's pcrmillion, given a Draught of It likewife. 1 do not find that the Con- noiJ[eiirsz\.z fully agreed what this Buft of his Lordlliip's is i bur to me it fcems to have a nearer Refemblancc of Tompey the Great than of any other that I remember ; only the Face feems rather thinner and older 5 which, 1 believe, 1 have clfewhere hinted. This Ornament, whatever it is, is pretty frequent in the Bufts and Statues of Great Men : therefore if it were indeed the La- Y y tus X ^c[6 Rome. Trajan Pillar. tus Ciavus, one would hardly imagine it fhould have efcap'd the Obfcrvation of lb many learned and inquifitivc Perfons who have treated of that Sub)e£t. The Opinions of feveral of them may be fecn in Kermet's Roman Antiquities, and fader's K.c- iw^xkswpon HoracCy Sat. 5. L.\. The Bulla Anrea is to be feen on fomc few of the Statues ; particularly one upon a young Nero, in this Villa. Ficaroni has a real one, which he fhcw'd us, and of which a Draught is here given. The Bulla, as Macrohhis in Lib. i. Saturn. C. 6. tells us, was antiently borne by Conquerors in their Triumphs : He calls it Gejlamen Trinmphantiwn, and adds, that they put certain Charms in it, which they imagined were powerful againft Envy, He mentions likewiie that Tarquhiius 'Prifais bcftowed the Bulla and the Tratexta upon his Son, who at fourteen Years of Age fignaliz'd himfelf in the War againft the Sabines ; Injigniens (fays Macrobius) puerum ultra annos fortem pramits Virilitatts (b" Honoris. " Adorning the Boy, who had fhewn a Valour be- " yond his Years, with the Rewards of Manhood and Honour." It became afterwards a more common Ornament of young No- blemen. JrajanP/7/ecurJio's, probably becaufe he thought it fo much in the fame Manner with the other, as not to be worth being reprefcnted by itfelf. This Pillar lies juft by a very ftately Fabrick, which they call Oiria Innocent iana, being erefted by Innocent xh^lLllth. . Here are held feveral Courts of J uftice. Triumph^ The principal Triumphal Arches which now remain, are- Arches. ^hoie of Titus, Septimius Severus, and Confiantine : The iaft is the moft magnificent, and beft prelcrv'd. That of Titiishas only one Opening or Paflage thro' it ; the.: other two have each of them, befides one large Opening in the; middle, a fmaller one on each fide, after the Manner of 7Vw^/(?r B^ir, &c. as may be iccn by the Prints of them that are, extant. Within the Paflage thro' Titus's Arch are three Baflb-Rclic- vo's, one at the Top over head, and one on each fide : hi that on the left hand, as you go thro' it, towards the Campo Vaccina,, we have an authentick Reprefentation of the Golden Candle- ftick, and Table of the Shew-Brcad, which were in the Temple of Jerufakm, Thelc, and the other magniticcnt Ornaments of Rome. Triumph a lArches. 349 of them all, are to befecn in Rolji'% Book of the Veteres Arcus Augnftortim. But Bartoli, who cngrav'd the Plates, has, in his Prints of the Conjiantine Axzh^ rcprefenred thole Baffo-Reiie- To's as equally good, which arc really in thcmfelves moft unequal : For, as this Arch had its principal Ornaments from the Ruins of that of Trajan, in whofe time Sculpture did highly flourini i fo, where they fell fhort, to compleat the Defign of the Archi- tect, and that there might be fomewhat of Conftantine's own Story feen in an Arch ereftcd to his Honour, fome additional ones were carv'd by the Artifts of that rime, which ai-o moft vile i at Icaft they appear fo in prelence of the others. An admirable long Baflb-Relievo, which was intirc, and rc- prefenred Trajan's Vidory over thzT^ncians, was cut into four parts to adorn this of Confiantine : Two of them are plac'd on the outfide, at cacLcnd one ; and the other two are within the great middle Arch : Over one of thefe is written LIBERA TORI URBIS; over the other, FUNDATORI QUIETIS. • Thefe Infcriptions were addrefs'd to Conjlantine, tho' the BaflTo- Relievo's under them did belong to Trajan. The W^ords INSTINCTU DIVINITATIS in the Infcrip tion, Ficaroni interprets to allude to the Vifton of the Crofs. There was once on the Top of this Arch a Triumphal Cha- riot, drawn by eight Horfes of gilt Metal, taken likewife (as fays the fame Gentleman) from the Arch of Trajan, which the Goths afterwards carried oft' as Plunder. That levcral of the Triumphal Arches were lb adorn'd, is evident from the Re- verfes of the Medals which were Itruck upon occafion of theii being ercdcd. The Trunks of fome fine Statues ftand there, the Heads of which were broke off" in the Time of Clement WW. by Loren- zino of Medici*-, and the Heads brought to a Collcdion, which * ^' '"[""]_>>* - wanted not fuch an Addition to make it one of the iincft in the Imijh'T World.. Rome: It We obferv'd part of a fine Cornice, which w^as brought from '^^erfLnflT Trajan's Arch, us'd in that fide of this Arch next the Amphi- murder'J theatre as a common un wrought Stone 5 the plain fide is turned ^^"^' Ale.--, outwards, and fome of the Letters of one of the Infcriptions arc. cut upon it ; the wrought fide is turn'd inwards, and hid from thofe.that view it on the outfide j but wc difcovcr'd it whcn.-- ^50 Rome. Amphitheatre. \vc were in a Room wirhin, over the great Paflage : We had but an indifferent way to it, being obliged to mount by a Ladder up to a fort of Window at one end of the Fabrick, and to go thro' a narrow Entrance we found there to a fmall Stair-cafe, which brought us into the inner Room. Some of the Pillars of this Arch. :i\:c of Glal/oAntico, the reft of Marmo Greco. The Baflb-Relicvo's in Septimins Severus's Arch are much damag d j more (I think) than thote in that of Titus, tho' his be fo much older j but the Fabrick of 77f«j-'s has futfer'd full as much in the extreme parts. Amphithe- The Amphitheatre of Vefpafian, finifh'd by his Son TituSj atiL-. which is juftby Conftantine'% Arch, has had fo much written of it, and the Prints of it are fo common, that I need not attempt any particular Dcfcription of it. The loweft Story is pretty much buried. Ficaroni fays he law an Architedof Veronawxi- cover fomc of the buried part, and found there was an Afcent of three Steps up to it. All the Arches within were covered with Ornaments of Stucco, of which there are fome ftill remaining. This noble Fabrick had Seats fufficient to contain eighty five thoufand Spedators : The Seats are all gone, but the Slope ftill re- mains on which they were placed, almoft round the Arena. If the Incurfion of the Goths gave it the firft Shock, fome worfe than Goths at home have further'dthe Ruin of it, to raife Palaces to themlelves. It is built of the Tiburtine Stone, which has not a fine Grain, but is very durable. The outfide of about one half is entirely gone, but the other half is all ftanding yet, quite up to the top. The Body of the Amphitheatre, behind the Seats, confiftcd of double Galleries, that is. Galleries divided with Pillars all along the middle of them; each Gallery going quite round, and inclofmg the Scats, as They did the Arena. There were four Stories of thefe Galleries ; three of them were pro- perly Portico's of the T>oric, Ionic, and Corinthian Orders : The uppcrmoft is adorned with Pilafters of the Corinthian or Compofite Order, and is lighted by Windows in the Wall be- tween the Pilafters, and not laid open, as the other three are. Some parts of all the Galleries are yet intire, for a confiderabie Extent together, with the icvcral Communications between them and the Scats by the Voniitoria (as they called the Mouths 3 Of Rome. CircusMaximus. 351 of the Paflagcs through which the Crowds of People were poured into the Amphitheatre to fee the Shews j) and fuch parts as ftill remain give us a fufficient Idea of what the Whole was, when the Circle was compleat. Several of the Fornices too, below, under the Seats, where the Slaves and wild Beafts were kept, that were let out for Combat into the Arena, remain pretty intire to this day. There is fcarce a Stone, even in the mofl: intire part of the Amphitheatre, which has not one or more deep Holes made in it, which romeafcribc to tlie Malice of the barbarous Nations, who upon their Incurfions into Rome:, befldes other Ravages, made tliofe Holes, merely to deface fo noble a Monument of the Rotnan Grandeur. Others afcribc it to their Avarice, and lay they did it for the fake of thofe Cramps of Metal, which were put there to ftrengthen the Joints of the Stones. F'lcaroni op- pofes both thefe Opinions, looking upon it to be highly impro- bable that they would fpcnd their Malice upon the Amphi- theatre, and not rather upon the Trajan or Antonine Pillars, or upon the Triumphal Arches, which are fo many {landing Monuments of their having been brought under fubjeclion to the Romans •■> and as improbable that they fhould be prompted to do fuch a thing out of Avarice, and take fuch pains to pick out thefe Cramps which could yield them nothing but the Iron they were made of, and the Lead they were fixed with, and at the fame time leave untouch'd the Plates and other Ornaments of rich Metal with which the Portico of the Tantheon was co- ver'd, and which remained there till the Pontificate of Urban the Vlllth, who employ'd them in S. Teter'^ Church, as above mention'd. He therefore concludes that this was not done at all by the Hands of the Barbarians, but by the People of Rome them- felves, who were by thole Incurfions become poor and mifera- ble : and pick'd out thefe Iron Cramps for meet necellity ,- ven- turing to make free with them, when perhaps they durft not meddle with that more precious Booty of the Tantheon. The Figure of the Circus Maximiis ftill remains, and /bme Circus Mixi- of the Fornices are now ^^ccw-, over which the Seats were built. '^'^^^ This Circus was vaftly capacious: Some compute tlie Number of Spcclators it would contain, to be two hundred and fixty thouland j others make the Number ftill greater. 352. Rome. P a l; A u g u s t i. Tai.ofAa- ]ufl: above this, are confidcrable Ruins of the Palace of the gufti. j^ugufii. Some of the Windows Iccm to have been of three or four Squares in height, and reaching from the Top to the Bottom of the Rooms -, as many in the Venetian Palaces now do. i^thiof The Baths of Titus, .tho' very much ruin'd, fhew the Remains Titiis. of great Magnificence. Wc faw twelve large and long Vaults contiguous one by the fide of the other : At the further end of them are a great many lefler ones, fome of them plaiftered with Feftoons and other Ornaments on the Stucco. There are fome few Remains of tiie old Paintings, particular- ly the Story of Coriolanus with his Mother and VVife ; but it is now grown very faint, and is in fome parts little more than bare- ly vifible. Mr. Richardfon has a fine Drawing of it by Hani- bal Caracci, after which Bartoli made his Plate. Bellori has given us an Account of the Colours of the feveral Draperies, •which are now Icarcely perceptible in the Pifture it felf. In the fame Vault we faw the large Nich, whence was taken the famous ■L.aocoon of the Belvedere. Over fome of thefe Vaults was a Palace of Titus, built in view of his Amphitheatre. nathstifCi.- The Baths oi Caracalla fhew much greater Remains above racalla. ground, than thofe oi Titus : There are many high Walls which enclofe large Ipacious Courts, and feveral great Arches, now .ftanding. We obferv'd in fome of the broken Vaults large pieces of Pumice-StonCj which were put there to make the Building lefe heavy. There were in thefe Baths fixteen hundred Seats of Marble for thofe that bathed to fit in, in order t6 be clcanfed with the Strigils, Brufhes, &c. Thofe Seats in the Cloyfter of S.John Later an, already mention'd, arc fuppos'd to have been two of thefe. Eefidcs the Buildings which particularly belonged to the Baths, here was a great Palace built by this Emperor, and Schools for all forts of Excrcifes. There were fubterraneous Vaults throughout the whole Ex- tent of thefe Baths, Palace, &c. but many of them are now -hoak'd up with Earth and Rubbiili. At Rome. BathsofCaracalla. 35j ' At each end of a great Hall (or rather Court, for 'tis now open at top) -ixzTr'ibtinds, or fcmicirciilar Portico's, with Niches for Statues. In one of thele the great Groupc of 'Dirce and the Bull was found. That and fome other Statues were carried hence to the Palace Farnefe ; and great Qiiantities of Marble Incruftations were taken from the Walls, &c. and removed to S. Tetefs Church. Here likcwifc we faw the Remains of a Temple of IJls, a Ro- tonda. It was this Emperor [Caracalla] who reftor'd the Wor- Ihip of IJis in Rome, which had been aboliili'd by Tiberius. Jofephus gives a plcaiant Account of the Occafion of it, Ant. Zj. iS. C 4. I will fave the Reader the trouble of turning over the Book itfelf, and will infert the Subftance of the Story here. I^ecius Mimdus, a young Roman Knight, Cin Tiberius's time] was violently in love with a noble Lady, call'd Tatilina, Wife to one Satnrnintis, a Senator. Tmdina was virtuous, as fhe was fair ; the young Man courted, intreated, offer'd Prefents, but all in vain : At laft he tried the Power of Gold ; and if two hundred thoufand Attic 'Drachmas [about fix thoufand Pound] might purchale his Happincfs, he was ready to lay that with himlclf at her feet; but, all to no purpofe : The Lady rcmain'd obftinately virtuous. The young Man, unable to bear the De- nial, refolved to ftarvc himlclf to death. A good-natur'd Wo- man, a Freed- woman of his Father's, call'd Ide, v/ho had a dextrous Turn in Affairs of that nature, faw how 'twas with him : She faw, and fympathiz'd : Come, fays fhe, don't pine thus, chearup, never fear but I'll find means to help you. He hearkening very attentively, flic added. Give me but a fourth part of what you offer'd the Lady, and I'll lay it out fo„ that, my Life for your's, I'll foon put you to bed to her. She receives the Money, and knowing that 'P Rome. GrottadeEgeria. j^$ nor Caj)ena.'] There are two of the Pillars, Compojite-, now remaining, one on each fide this Arch, [of T>rufus ; ] his Statue on horfeback was on the top of it, as is to be feen in fomc Medals of him, where this Arch is the Reverie. The Circus o^i Caracallais a little way out of Town, near the fide of the Via Appia: The Figure of it ftill remains, (but all ruinous') and fo do the Met£ within it. The Obelisk, which was within it, is now fet up on the fine Fountain in the 'Piazza Na- 'vona. This Circus is laid to have contain'd a hundred and thirty thoufand Spcdators. By the fide of the Way that we went to this Circits, are the Ruins of the Temples of Virtue and of Honour ; which were contiguous, and fo built, that the Way into the laft was thro' the former, to denote that Honour was to be attained only by Virtue, or Valour; ^y?//j includes both. Aifo The Temple dedicated 'Deo Rediculo, la redeundo-, accord- ing to fomc] built upon occafion of Hannibal's advancing to- \rards Rome., and then fuddcnly retreating : Others write it Ridicule, giving it this Turn, That Hannibal retreated as baf- fled, retrocejferit illufus. So Tanvinius husk, and Mar- lianus likcwifc : The whole Paflage in Panvinius is thus, Extra Capenam lapide II. fuit templiim Ridiculi, ibi excitatum, quod eo loco Hannibal caftrametatus retrocejferit illufus. An Ac- count of his Encampment and Retreat, and what induc'd him to the later, may be fcen in Livy, L. xxvi. And likcwife, The Temple Fortuna Muliebri, built in the Place where the Mother and Wife of Coriolanus met him, and prcvail'd upon him to raife the Siege. In the fame Way we faw the Fans Egeria, now call'd the Grotta, or Spelunca d'Egeria, [the Cave of Egeria'] where Nunia made the People believe he had Conference with that Goddcfs, and received Diredions from her in forming his Reli- gious Inftitutions. Not far off this we faw the noble Monument of Cacilia Me- tella, the Daughter of ^. Creticus, and Wife of Craffus, as the Infcription, ftill plain upon it, fhcws, C^CILIiE, (^ CRETICI F. METELL^ CRASSI. Z Z 2 It j5<5 Rome. Catacombs. It is a Rotonda, as fevcral of the antient Maufolea were : One fide is mucli ruin'd ; and tlierc we liad opportunity of obferving tlut tlic vaft Stones whereof it is built, were laid together with- out Mortar, or any other Cement. There is a Frieze toward the Top, adorn'd with Heads of Oxen, from whence the whole Strudurc is commonly called Capo di Bove. There is a line Sarcophagus in the Court of the Farnefe V^- lacc, which they fay was brought from hence, and is fuppob 1 to have contain'd this Lady's Remains : She was Wife to the ncli Alar ens Crajfus, who fell in the Wars againft the Tarthians. , The Catacombs of Rome have nothing of that magnificent Appearance which thofe of Naples have : Two Perfcis :aa fcarce go a-breaft within them : I fpeak of thofe of S. S^'<^ajiian, which are reckoned the principal ones of Rome, and wc were not in any other. But what they want in breadth, 'hey have lufficicntly made out in length, if what Ficaroni told us be true, that the Extent of all the Galleries or Walks, of which there are a Multitude, branching themfelves out fevcral ways, amounts in the whole to forty Miles. The Narrownefs and Clofenefs of them occafions an unwholcfome Damp, which I felt the EfFedt of fome days after. It is certainly not advifeable to fpcndmuch time in them, but Curiofity fometimes makes one unmindful of Safety. It is dangerous to venture far into them without a Conduftor, by reafon of the many Labyrinths and Mazes made by the numerous Branches of the fevcral Galleries. Our Guide told us, that fome that have gone in too far, have not been able to find their way out again, and have perifhed there. It was much eafter cutting thefe Catacombs than thofe of Na- ples, becaufe the Rock is much fofter ; but that Quality occa- fion'd another, which was very inconvenient, I mean their Nar- rownefs ; for the Stone not being of a fufficient Confiftencc to fupport itfelf in a wider Arch, they were obliged to cut thefe fo narrow, as I have obfcrved before ; which muft have made it exceeding troublefomc and tedious to get out the Rubbifh that was made by the Hollowing of the Vaults, there not being room for thofe Carriages to pafs by one another, or turn in thefe nar- row Vaults, which in the fpacious ones of Naples might be employed to carry off the Rubbifli, and might pals and repafs by one another, as well as turn about with the grcateft Eafe and Coil- Rome. MausoleumofAugustus. 3 57 Convenience. We found a great many of the Niches in thcfc clos'd 5 fomc of the Company open'd one or two of them : The Bones, which to the Eye appeared intire, we found upon Touch to be mouldcr'd, fo as to crumble away between the Fingers. In one was a Skeleton of full Growth, with another very little one by it, which might probably be a Woman dead in Child- bed, with her hifant buried by her. At the mouth of fome of the Niches we faw little Vials of Glafs like Lachrymatories, with a Tinfture of Red at the bottom : Thefe they told us were Indications that thofc who were depofited in fuch Niclies, were Martyrs. The Manfolemn of Alexander Severus is a little way out of Town : It is a Rotonda. The Stone Vault is furrounded on the outfide with a great Thicknefs of Earth. The Kas Barberinum was found here. In our way we faw part of the old Aqucduft of Ancns Mar- tiusy brought over high narrow Arches, the Remains of which are feen in feveral places, and in fome without any interruption for a long way together. That of Claudius, and the reft of the antient Aqueduds, were carried over the like narrow Arches, as appears by what is left of them. Thofe modern ones of Six- tus V. are much in the fame manner. The Maufoleum oi Augujius is within the City ; this is a Ro- tonda too, of about four and forty Paces diameter : The vaulted Roof of it is deftroyed j but the Sides remain intire quite round. The Area within is now a Garden. It was built by Augiiftus for a Rcpofitory of the Remains of Julius Cafar, and was after- wards the Burial-place of the Augufti. The Gamere Sepulchrale [Sepulchral Chambers] in which the Urns were depofited, go round the Oittfide in three Stories. In thefe a great deal of the old Opus Reticulatum is feen. Here we faw a large Statue of i^yEfculapius, a fine one of the Goddefs Capia, with the Cornu, &c. and fome others. A fine old Sarcophagus of white Marble, with Baifo-Rc- licvo's of 'Pan, Faunus, Satyrs, (5cc. [Heads], and of Cupids, [whole Figures] holding up Feftoons. On thje front of the Cover are little Cupids riding on Dolphins, Sea-Horfes, a Sca- Cow, and a Sea-Ram. The Entrance into this Sepulchre was anticntly grac'd with two Obelisks, one of which is now before ^^B Rome. PyramidofCestius. before the Cluuxh of S. Maria hlaggiore, as has been aU-eady mciitioii'd. Tyrimidof T\\z pyramid o^ Cejiiits^ all built of white Marble, ftands Ccftius. ij^if within, and half without the Wall of Rome, near the Torta Tergemina. There are fome antique Paintings ftill with- in, but wc could not fee them -, the Lock was out of order, lb that the Door could notbeopcn'd. The lower part of this Py- ramid was a good deal buried, till Alexander VII. took away the Earth from about it j at which time were found, lying along, the two Pillars that are now fet up at the two Corners of the Pyra- Fione°?dr "^^^ ^^'^'"'''^ ^^^'^ City- Wall *. PyrTmtic ^ Thc Tort a Tergemina, oxTrigemina, is juft by this Pyramid: c.CeftiiEpu- It isfometimes called by that Name at this day, but moft com- Sn! ^''^""' monly Torta di S. Taolo, from the Church of S. Taul, which is not far from it. The old Name was given it, becaufe it was this way the Trigemini Fratres, the Horatii, [three Brothers born at one Birth,] went out to that famed Combat with the Curiatit. Nardimis and Borrichius make fome Objedions to this Account, and fay This could not be the Gate the Horatii went out at ; alledging, that it was at that time unbuilt, and that the City-Walls did not then extend fo far as the Place where this Gate is built ; that the old Torta Trigemina was at the foot of the Aventine Hill, but that this Gate is at a confidcrable di- ftancc from thence, being juft by the Tyramid of Ce/iius. All this may be true, and may perhaps prove that this is not the very Gate through which the Brothers palled to the Field of Battle, nor the firft Gate which was called by that Name ; but it may be likewife true, that this Gate was lb called becaufe thcfe Bro- thers pafl-cd upon that Occafion along the Way where this Gate Hands : For when the Romans, to prcferve the Memory of an Aftion, to which Rome ow'd its Sovereignty, had once given the Name of Tergemina or Trigemina to a Gate leading to the Place where that Aftion was performed ; nothing could be more natural than that their Pofterity, when they removed the City- Wall, fhould call the new Gate that anfwer'd to this old one, and led to the fame Place, by the fame Name, and thereby con- tinue the Memorial of this important Victory. Nor indeed is it eafy to imagine why, upon fhiftingthe Gate fomething further outwards, they fhould change the Name, though there had not been ?59 R o M E. Pyramid ofCestius. been fo particular a Realbn for continuing it. The Survivor of the Horatii came not back the very fame Way, as we arc in- formed by Livy, but returned thro' the Torta Capena, where feeing his Sifter with Tears lamenting the Death of one of the Curiati't^ who was her Lover, killed her for bewailing the Death of one that was an Enemy to Rome. Linjy gives us his Speech when he ftabb'd her, Abi hinc cum tmmattiro amore ad Spon- fum, oblita fratrnm mortuorum 'vivique, oblita ^atria : Sic eat, quacunqtie Romana bigebit hoftem. " Get thee hence, " with thy unfeafonable Love, to that Spoufc thou mourneft, " forgetful of thy Brothers, both of thole that are dead, and of " me that furvive ; forgetful of thy Country : And, Thus let " every Roman go, that mourns an Enemy to Rome." There was, in the early Ages of Rome, a fort of a favagc Publick-fpiritcdnei's, which was forward to fignalize itfelf againft the neareft of Relations, if they appear 'd to be Enemies to their Country 5 as in the Cafe now mention'd ; and in that famous one of Brutus, ftriking off the Heads of his two Sons 5 upon which Monfieur St. Evremont obfcrves, that the Sentiments of Liberty made him forget thofe of Nature. At a little diftance fromtheother fide of the Pyramid, lately fpoken of, is the Monte Tejfaccio, a Hill rais'd by degrees in the time of the old Romans, chiefly from broken Pots, but with the Addition of other Rubbifh. They have now made feveral large Caverns or Grotta's within it, for the keeping of Wine, which when newly brought out from thence, drinks as cool as if it were iced. The Grotta's themfelves are fo cold, that it is dangerous for thofe to go into them in the hot Weather, who are not ac- cuftomcd thereto, cfpecially in the Day-time, when the Anti- feriftafis is ftronger. I ftood once only at the Entrance of one of them, and not above a Minute, and that in the Evening too, when the outer Air was more upon a ^^r with that within, and there came out lb piercing a Cold, that it perfcdly ftruck thro' me : I have recoUefted fince, that one might have better gone quite into the Grotta, where the Cold would have been equal on all fides, and not come in a Torrent one way only, as it did at the Entrance. The Sepulchre of the Nafones [commonly call'd O'vid's Ovid"* Tomb] is under a Hill on the fide of the Fia Flaminia, not far ^'""*' from ^6o Rome. O v i d's Tomb. fVoni the ^Po7ite Molle. It is well known that O-vid died in' Eanilhmcnt, in a Country far diftant from Rof^ie, and was there buried. This Sepulchre, therefore, is not of OW(^himfelf, but of the Familui Nafonia-, Defcendents from him. Bellori ob- viates a Diificulty which may be rais'd. That Nafo was only a Surname pcrfonal to Ovid, and not his Nome Gentilizio, the Name of his Family. To this he fays, " That it was cuftomary " Ibmctimes to change the particular Surname into a Family- " Name, for the eminent Characbcr of fuch Pcrfon as had made " that Surname famous." And indeed the antient Romans ha- ving been Ibmctimes (as the modern ones often are) more gene- rally known or diftinguifh'd by fuch adventitious Name, than by that of their Family, it is very natural to fuppofe that Ovidy having :been geneially known by the Name Nafo, and having made it fo famous, his Defcendents might take the fame, (or the Name Nafonius, dcriv'd from it,) for their Family-Name, inftead cf Ovidins, which was the Family-Name before. The Perlbn, who built this Sepulchre, was ^. Nafonius Am- brofius, as was difcover'd by an Infcription on a Marble, found in the principal Nich, at the upper end of the Sepulchre. In the fame Nich was reprefentai in Painting the Perlbn of his An- ceftor, Ovid, (with Mercury and other Figures) placed there in the chief part of the Sepulchre, exaftly fronting the Entrance, that he might be the more confpicuous, as being the principal Objeft. The Defigns of all the Paintings, with which the reft of the Niches, and all the other parts of the Sepulchre were co- ver'd over, may be known by Bartoli's Vnnts^ and Be//ori'sll- ^^ Inifrations, in thck Book of the GrotteAntic/je. This Sepulchre was accidentally difcover'd in the Year 1 674^ •by fome Workmen who were getting Stone out of the rocky .Hill within which it is built, to repair the l^ia F/aminia againft '.the fuccceding Year of Jubilee, which would bring a Concourfe . of People that way. At the firft opening of it, the Colours of the Paintings there- in were very frcfh and lively, but upon the admilllon of the , outer Air, they changed, and by degrees grew languid, and the very Plaiftcr they were painted on began to part from the Walls ; but that excellent Artift, Tietro Santo Bartoli took ■.care \^ time to preferve the Memory of the Dcilgns, by copying them Rome. Cloaca. j6r them, and wafhing them in the proper Colours of the Originals. Thefe Defigns of Bartoli, in Colours, arc to be feen all together in a Book at the Palace of the Marchefe MaJJimi above men- tion'd. And fuch of the Paintings, as they could get away in any tolerable Condition, were carried off, and are difpers'd in feve- ral Palaces ; fome of which have been mention'd : fo that there is little now remaining there, but the Figure of the Sepulchre within, which is intirc ; but the Paintings are in a manner all gone, except two Figures which remain on one fide of the Vault. The Cloaca, which are Conveyances for the Filth and Dirt of Cloaca, the City, are a Work of very great Antiquity, and are call'd by 'Pliny Opus Omnium Maximum, on account of the great Capacioufnefs, and Firmnefs of the Vaults, They were eight see PlinyV hundred Years old in his time, being made by Tarquinius ^^traordinp ^Prifcus, and continue to this day. We faw the Mouth of one them"L %6. of them, confifting of a ftrong triple Arch, at the ilde of the c. if. Tyber, near the Remains of the Pons Sublicius, which Horatius Codes alone defended againft all the Forces of King Porfena, till the Bridge was broken under him. The pompous Accounts, which we find in the Poets, relating to the Tiber, raife an Idea which finks very much upon fight of it : That of 'Dionyjius in his tisQ^'ji'^naii is pretty cxu-aordinary, ©ufx)Sg;ts lKia-(Tofjiiv©* Ket^aQpv faov Gi aha, CaAAflr, ©o/A/3e/j fi/ppeiTVt TToJafJi.ut/ /3ao"iA^TaT®« aAAwy, ©i>/jt/3g^j, OS ifAepTlai a,7ro7f(AVSTcu civS'i^cL 'Pft)/*Zcu. Tyber, that rolls tranfparent to the Sea, % Tyber, wide Stream, whom others Floods obey, > Tyber, that cuts thro' faireft Rome his way. 3 Notwithftanding this fine Account of this Prince of Rivers, with its Limpid Streams, whenever I look'd on it, I could not forbear thinking rather of Tojver-'Ditch, than the River Thames. Certain it is, that Rome has made the Tiber famous, which elfc had been but an inconfiderable River; and the City was doubtlefs very ill watcr'd while it depended only on that Stream, which is always muddy, and generally low, except when rais'd by Floods, which bring it to the other Extreme, as is to be ken A aa by 361 Rome. Tyber. by Marks infcrib'd on Pillars at the Niiovo Navale a Ripetta, [a fort of Qiiay] which fticw to how great a Height the Inun- dations have rifen. Th»3 Condition of the River, each way inconvenient, was doubt- lefs what put the antient Romans, in the very early Ages of their City, upon that moft coftly, but moft noble Expedient of the Aquedufts, already mention'd, fome of which are near two thoufand Years old. Several of thcfe being decay 'd, were re- ftor'd by fome of the firft Emperors, (as may be feen by the In- fcriptions on the Tort a Navia, or Maggiore) to which others were afterwards added : And inftead of fuch as have fuice that time fail'd, a rich Supply has been made by Sixtus V. and Taiilus V. of the Acqua Felice and 'Paula : So that Rome, however dcftitutc of Waters naturally, has by thefe means been made one of the beft water'd Cities in the World : Infomuch that bcfides the publick Fountains, which are numerous, and fome of them very magnificent, there is fcarcc a priv,nte Houfe ©f any Confideration that has not a Fountain belonging to it. Some of the antient Aquedufts brought the Waters above fixty miles, and the more modern, above thirty. I fhall not attempt a Defcription of any of the Fountains, which are many of them very beautiful and finely adorn'dj the Figures of them are well mongh lecn by the Prinrs. When that flatcly one was erefted by Bernini in the Tiazza Navona, People wonder'd from what part of it the Water was to iffiie, fome cxpeding it from the Colofial Figures at the four Corners, fome from one part, fome from another. While all were big with Expeftarion, upon a Signal given for the opening the Pipes, a wholeDeluge came thro' the Clefts of the [artificial] Rock 5 which falling with a Force on fuch parts as were contriv'd to give it a proper Refiftance, made it rcficcl and rebound again in a thoufind Varieties, to the Amazement of the Speftators. Of all the fine Fountains that are n\ Rome,x.\\\s, I think, is much the moft entertaining. Oratorio di As wc wcrc taking the Air one Evening in this !P/