V 
 
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 H. M. STANLEY. 
 
 (l-',m,i a rliidij<iraph bi, J. Thimsu,,, Wn, UroHVcnor street, London, W.)
 
 THE CONGO 
 
 AND THE 
 
 FOUNDING OF ITS FREE STATE 
 
 A STORY OF 
 
 WORK AND EXPLORATION 
 
 BY 
 
 HENRY M. STANLEY 
 
 WITH OVER ONE HUNDUED FULL-PAGE AND SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS, 
 TWO LARGE MAPS, AND SEVERAL SMALLER ONES 
 
 IN TWO VOLUMES 
 Vol. II. 
 
 NEW YORK 
 HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE 
 
 1885
 
 Copyright, 1885, by Harper & Brothers. 
 
 All rig/Ua ruerved.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 (Vol II.) 
 CHAPTEE XXVI. 
 
 TO THE BLACK RIVER. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Bolobo trade — Wealth of the chiefs — Manguru the Rothschild of 
 Bolobo— Scenery of the Upper Congo — Ennui on the voyage — 
 Comparison with travelling on other great rivers — Unvarying 
 food — We lose our way — " Ho, Wy-yanzi, tribesmen of Luko- 
 lela ! " — A poor reception — An improvised market— Tricked by 
 the natives — Buying a crocodile— Cordial reception at Usindi — 
 Irebu the home of the champion traders— Maugombo the chief — 
 Excellent knowledge of trade — The war in Irebu— I am asked to 
 negotiate for peace — Cause of the war — Difference between 
 Stanley and Bula Matari — Medicine to make wealth grow — 
 Cooking the big pot — Troublesome exploration — -A threatening 
 dance — " The river is free, but touch not the land " — The Batuki 
 — A new station founded 1 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 FROM THE BLACK RIVER TO STANLEY POOL AND BACK TO 
 EQUATOR STATION. 
 
 An embarrassing farewell — Chili pej^per and tears— Success of a 
 hypocritical stratagem — Sounds of war — Peace-making — Bury- 
 ing the war — The Lukanga river — Mantumba Lake— The Watwa 
 dwarfs — Rescue of a shipwrecked crew — The Abbe Guyot — The 
 lion and his prey — Leopoldville flourishing— Troubles at Bwa- 
 bwa Njali's— A homicidal officer— Lieutenant Janssen and the 
 Abbe Guyot drowned — Troubles at Kimpoko — Troubles at 
 Bolobo— The station burnt— We are fired upon — War — A Krupp 
 gun sent for — Weak effects of musketry — Peace restored — 
 Settling the indemnity — Displaying the power of the Krupp — 
 "I and my people will depart from Bolobo for ever ! "—The river 
 of Bunga — Lukolela— A magnificent forest — The superstition of 
 luka — Excellent condition of Equator Station — My ideal 
 achieved Sii
 
 CONTENTS. 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 TO THE ARUWIJII OR BIYERKE. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Equipping for a long voyage — The Lulungu river — Bolombo — 
 Bangala the terrible — Stirring memories — Boleko the chief — 
 "Stop, thief!" — Mata Bwyki — A modern Hercules — "Is this 
 Tandelay ? " — Uncomfortable moments — The appeal of Yumbila 
 — " Bula Matari and Mata Bwyki are one to-day ! " — Luxuriant 
 tropical scenes — Immense forest wealth — Unsheltered in a storni 
 —Deserted districts - Nganza— Old Eubunga — I.anga-Langa 
 women — The currency changing — Kdobo — Oyster-shells a sign 
 of former population — Bumba and the chief Myombi — The 
 dreaded Ibauza— A trick with a tiger's skin— Yambinga — Itim- 
 biri river- Yalulima armourers — Hostile natives — War canoes on 
 the look-out— The Aruwimi— Mokulu— An effective salutation— 
 "Bravo, Yumbila!" 75 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 UP THE BIYERRE. 
 
 Yumbila returns with an interesting story— Slave kidnappers, pro- 
 bably from the Soudan— Skilful workmanship — Umaneh and 
 Yakui — Conical huts — The course of the river — Metropolitan 
 Yambinnba — A sham famine— The rapids — Supposed identity of 
 the Biyerre and Welle — Reasons for this opinion— -Arabs in the 
 neighbourhood — Again on the Congo 119 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 TO STANLEY FALLS. 
 
 Predatory Bahunga— An odd means for defence— Deserted villages — 
 Enormous flotilla of canoes — Danger ahead — Ravages by the 
 Arabs — " Cruel man has done his worst "—Remains of burnt 
 villages— A shocking discovery — We overtake the Arab slave- 
 traders — Meditations on retribution —Extent of territory ravaged 
 by the Arabs— Their miserable captives — A harrowing scene — 
 Captives all women and children ; their number — The cause of 
 the trade— Yangambi — The Cliofu river — The Wcnya fishermen 
 — Cunning policy of the Arabs— Stanley Falls— Description of 
 the cataracts— The district tribes — Their mode of fishing— A 
 dangerous ferry — Drum signals — An industrious people- The 
 fish of the waters- Palavers— Onr farthest station founded— 
 Binnie is appointed chief and left in charge— Homeward bound 134
 
 CONTENTS. V 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 DOWN THE CONGO TO STANLEY POOL. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 Going with the stream— The Arabs send their confidential men with 
 us— NavigabiUty of the Liimami and Lubilash — Wreck of the 
 ii'oya?— Beaching and repairing the wreck— Cold winds on the 
 river — Iboko in confusion — Impudent thieving — A prisoner — 
 " Fast bind, fast find " — A horrified father — Refusal of a ransom 
 — Cordiality at Ukumira — Mata Bwyki in a passion — More 
 prisoners — Restitution of our stolen property — Freeing the 
 prisoners— A horrible massacre — Young Glave of Yorkshire — 
 Bolobo station again burnt— News from the missionaries — Again 
 at Leopold ville — Troublesome news from Vivi 168 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 RETDRN TO VIVL 
 
 Starting of our caravan— A promising farewell— Ngalyema's last 
 words — Encouraging resolutions of the officers — Hospitality of 
 the natives as we pass — Nselo ferry — Quarrel between Ngombi 
 and Mbimbi — Peace-making — Forms of our treaties with native 
 chiefs— List of districts and their chiefs — The cut-throat Lutete 
 is changed for the better— An extending and dangerous crevasse 
 — Lava at Kalulu Falls : " Whence has it come ? " — Manyanga 
 " higgledy-piggledy " — Hospitality at the mission-house of Mr. 
 and Mrs. Ingham— A pretty station — Luima and Lunionzo 
 valleys — Climate and health— Congo la Lemba— View of Vivi — 
 Unhappy reflections upon its neglect 189 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 TO OSTEND. 
 
 Climate and conduct — Vivi in confusion— A cure for sham illness — 
 Removal of the station — Description of the changes at Vivi — 
 General Gordon's probable work — I embark on the Kinsemho — 
 Loan<j;o— Sette Camma— Coast trade— Gaboon Gulf— Fernando 
 Po-The Cameroons— Duke Town— Exploring a great "oil" 
 river — Native chiefs buying iron houses — Bonny — Lagos— Quetta 
 — Sierra Leone— My arrival in London — Report to H.M. the King 
 of the Belgians 220 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 EUROPEANS IN AFRICA. 
 
 European opinion of African life— Repelled by the absence of comforts 
 — " Amour propre " and " susceptibilities "—Few heroes of labour 
 —Extravagant hopes—" Bah ! 1 did not come for work'' — Types
 
 vi CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGB 
 
 of neglected and prosperous stations — Malingering — Unintel- 
 ligent workers — " Nothing like whisky !" — "Sojering" — A 
 happier theme— The earnest workers of the Expedition— New 
 aspirants— Young officers in search of adventures— A sad acci- 
 dent—Our physician— A plucky Scot— The way to gain a good 
 reputation 238 
 
 CHAPTER XXXV. 
 
 CLIMATE — PAET I. 
 
 Value of reliable knowledge — A youth's welcome to the tropics, and 
 its results — Wet flannels and fever — Intemperance — Careless- 
 ness in Europe — Inquiry into the causes of sickness at the 
 stations on the Congo — The cases of some of our invalids — The 
 best positions to build upon — Captain Burton's advice, " Beef 
 and beer " — European opinion of Africa compared to African 
 opinion of Europe — Banza Manteka : a missionary station — 
 Dangers of low-lying localities — A fatal " pare " — " Observe the 
 native custom '" — Sickness not all due to miasma — Number of 
 deaths in our Expedition — Instances of how the deaths occurred 
 — Urgent advice to- those who wish to thrive in the tropics . . 280 
 
 CHAPTEE XXXVI. 
 
 CLIMATE. — PART II. 
 
 Dr. von Danckelman's obsei'vations — Definition of heat — Cold — 
 Ex]iosure — Advantage of awnings — Equable temperature of the 
 body — Temperature in Soutli America — Inequality of the Congo 
 climate — Long marches and gulps of cold water — A cool place 
 — "He is only joking" — " Tlie White Man's Grave" — Advice 
 to doctors — Food and drink — Daily life — Medicine — Diseases — 
 Meteorological Tables 312 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVII. 
 
 THE KERNEL OF THE ARGUMENT. 
 
 Extent of the Congo River — Navigable stretches — The maritime 
 region — The mountain region — Elevations, vegetation, and pro- 
 ductions—Population — Interior basin of the Upper Congo; its 
 extent and altitudes — Navagability of the tributaries — Tal)les of 
 mileage of navigable waters — Area drained by the rivers — Tables 
 of population of Upper Congo section— Opinions of Dr. Pogge 
 and Lieut. Weissman, Tipj)U Tib, and Dr. Scliwcinfurth— The 
 products of the land— Vegetable and animal richness — Minerals 
 — E.xtent of the Webb-Lualaba section — Navagability of the
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PACE 
 
 Webb-Lualaba — Characteristics of the Lualaba country — Living- 
 stone's descriptions — The Tanganika territory — Ujiji markets — 
 Table of the actual knowledge of the Congo basin : its area and 
 population — Possibilities of trade — Table of the value of African 
 produce in Liverpool — Prospects of factories — Advantages of a 
 railway — Efforts to civilise Equatorial Africa — Comparison with 
 other countries — Its future development and greatness .. .. 339 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 THE BKRLIN CONFERENCE. 
 
 Strengthening the fabric — Precedents — Treaties with chiefs : their 
 validity — The Anglo Portuguese Treaty — United States action — 
 Prince Bismarck's views — Position of Great Britain — German 
 and French interests — Freedom of commerce — Berlin Conference 
 — List of Plenipotentiaries — Deliberations and decisions at the 
 Conference — Acquisitions of France and Portugal — Free Trade 
 — A safe jurisdiction — The Royal Founder 378
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 PiGE 
 
 The Commercial Basin of the Congo, as described by the Author 
 
 before the Berlin Conference 409 
 
 Protocol, No. 9 415 
 
 Declarations exchanged between the United States of America and 
 
 the International Association of the Congo 419 
 
 Convention between the Empire of Germany and the International 
 Association of the Congo 421 
 
 Declarations exchanged between the Government of Her Britannic 
 
 Majesty and the International Association of the Congo . . . . 422 
 
 Convention between the Government of Her Britannic Majesty and 
 
 the International Association of the Congo 423 
 
 Convention between the Netherlands and the International Associa- 
 tion of the Congo 426 
 
 Convention between the Government of the French Republic and the 
 International Association of the Congo 429 
 
 Convention between Portugal and the International Association of 
 the Congo 431 
 
 Declarations exi^hauged between the Belgian Government and the 
 
 International Association of the Congo 433 
 
 Protocol, -No. 10 434 
 
 The General Act of the Berlin Conference 410
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 ( Vol IJ.) 
 FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 KO. 
 
 1. H.M.Stanley. {From a photograph) 
 
 2. Au Interview before the Chief's House at Wangata 
 
 3. A Terrible Disaster . . 
 
 4. Equator Station 
 
 5. The Banks of the Upper Congo 
 6 "Finally the 'Ibanza' emerged into view" 
 
 7. Vifew of Bondeh 
 
 8. Scene from the Covelet near our Station at Stanley Falls. 
 
 Seventh Cataract in the distance 
 
 9. Still Haven, Stanley Falls 
 
 10. A Street Scene in Iboko 
 
 11. Execution of Slaves by the Bakuti near Equator Station 
 
 12. Kinshassa Station (Stanley Pool) .. 
 
 13. View of Le'opoldville Station and Port, 1884. The Baptist 
 
 Mission on the summit of Leopold Hill. {From a photograph) „ 186 
 
 14. View down the Congo, a few miles above the confluence of 
 
 the Lubamba with the Congo . . . . . . . . . . „ 192 
 
 15. View down the river from nearly opposite Isangila .. .. „ 215 
 
 16. A few of the Women and Children of our Coloured Employe's . . „ 222 
 
 17. Sanatorium at Bonny .. .. .... .. .. ,, 234 
 
 18. Mr. A. B. Swinburne, Chief of Kinshassa Station .. .. ,, 257 
 
 19. Tiie Sectional Steamer Le Stanley leaving Vivi Beach .. .. ,, 264 
 
 20. Plan of Profile of the Country between the Sea and Ruanda 
 
 across the Congo Basin .. .. .. .. .. .. „ 362 
 
 Frontispiece. 
 .. To face 
 
 38 
 
 
 55 
 
 
 71 
 
 
 95 
 
 
 106 
 
 ■'im 
 
 126 
 
 . ne 
 
 157 
 
 
 163 
 
 
 173 
 
 
 182 
 
 
 185 
 
 SMALLER ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 21. A Specimen of the By-yanzi. {By Mr. Glwe.) .. .. .. 3 
 
 22. A very poor Native of Inganda and his Dress .. .. .. .. 31 
 
 23. A Xative issuing to the War .. .. .. .. .. .. 37 
 
 24. View from the head of Bamu Island down the South branch at 
 
 Stanlty Pool 53 
 
 25. A Native of Iboko 70
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 so. 
 
 26. Plan of the Bangala Settlements 
 
 27. One of the Bungala .. 
 
 28. Native of Langa-Langa 
 29 Old Chief in native-made Hat 
 
 30. A Type of the Basoko 
 
 31. View of Mpozo Station and Kiver from \ 
 
 32. Mons. del Commune 
 
 33. ia r//Ze rfM/irers steamer .. 
 
 34. Captain Haiissens 
 
 35. Landana 
 
 36. From Ambriz to the Cameroons . . 
 
 37. Old Calahar Factories, near Duke Town 
 38 From tlie Niger to Ostend 
 39. Lieutenant Valcke . . 
 ■10. Lieutenant Vangele .. 
 
 41. Lieutenant Coqiiilhat 
 
 42. Lieutenant Jaussen . . 
 
 43. Lieutenant Pai foury . . 
 
 44. Lieutenant Grang 
 
 45. Dr. Aliard . . 
 
 46. Lieutenant Liebrechts 
 
 47. The funnel-shaped Gorge of the Lower Congo 
 
 48. Plan to illustrate how the Gorge discharges its winds at Le'opoldville 
 
 49. Political Divisions of the Congo Basin . . 
 
 PAGE 
 
 81 
 83 
 101 
 108 
 123 
 218 
 225 
 226 
 228 
 229 
 230 
 232 
 235 
 263 
 265 
 267 
 268 
 269 
 270 
 271 
 278 
 292 
 293 
 365 
 
 MAP. 
 A Map of the Congo Basin (second half) 
 
 In Pochet
 
 THE CONGO, 
 
 THE FOUNDING OF ITS FREE STATE. 
 
 CHAPTER XXVI. 
 
 TO THE BLACK RIVER. 
 
 Bolobo trade— Wetalth of the chiefs — Manguru the Rothschild of Bolobo 
 — Scenery of the Upper Congo — Ennui on the voyage — Comparison 
 with travelling on other great rivers — Unvarying food — We lose our 
 way — " Ho, Wy-yanzi, tribesmen of Lukolela ! " — A poor reception— 
 An improvised market— Tricked by the natives — Buying a crocodile 
 —Cordial reception at Usindi — Irabu the home of the champion 
 traders— Mangombo tlie chief — Excellent knowledge of trade — Tl'e 
 war in Irebu —I am asked to negotiate for peace — Cause of the war 
 — Difference between Stanley and Bula Matari — Medicine to make 
 wealth grow— Cooking the big pot — Troublesome exploration — A 
 threatening dance — " The river is free, but touch not the land " — 
 The Batuki —A new station founded. 
 
 The By-yanzi liave a tradition according to Ibaka issa. 
 that tbey came originally from Ubangi, a district Bolobo.' 
 situate south of and near the equator on the right 
 bank. From the number of canoes tliat I liave met 
 hailing from Ubangi, this must be a populous district. 
 Ibaka, who was once tliere on a trade expedition, 
 believes it to be an island, as, according to hira, " on 
 one side is all white water, on the other side it is all 
 black;" or it may mean that Ubangi is more likely to 
 YOL. II.— 1
 
 2 THE CONGO. 
 
 18S3. be situated in a fork at a confluence of two rivers — the 
 
 May 24. 
 
 Boiobo. Congo and a white water aflSuent. He was much con- 
 fused, he said, by the quantity of water and islands 
 there — " there was no end to the water." 
 
 Two hours' journey inland from Boiobo there is a 
 large market-place called Mpumbu, where dogs, croco- 
 diles, hippopotamus meat, snails, iguanas, fish and red- 
 wood pow^der are sold in great quantities. Little, 
 however, that is of utility to Europeans and people of 
 more refined tastes is sold at this particular place. 
 
 Boiobo is a great centre for the ivory and camwood 
 powder trade, principally because its j^eople are so 
 enterprising. The native traders have agents residing 
 at Stanley Pool, to whom the ivory collected here is 
 delivered, and the merchandise from the coast lying in 
 store is consigned to the wealthy traders at Boiobo, 
 
 One must not be hasty in judging from the poverty 
 of their garb that the chiefs of this trading district are 
 poor. They are frugally inclined, having a certain 
 standard of wealth which they must endeavour to 
 achieve before they bear on their persons in every day 
 life the habit befitting"- their station and prosperity. 
 Thus Maiigi, residing at [vintamo, is the junior chief 
 of Itimba, Boiobo. He visits LeojDoldville daily, 
 dressed in a cotton robe of dark blue baft, but he is 
 lord of three villages, and may probably be worth 
 £3000. Lugumbila, vizier to Ibaka and his oldest slave, 
 is probably worth an equal amount. But Manguru, of 
 Boiobo, is a nabob ; if his worldly belongings were 
 sold at auction in Boiobo, it is very possible his effects
 
 TEE ROTHSCHILD OF BOLOBO. 3 
 
 would realise double this sum. His canoes and slaves isss. 
 
 May 24. 
 
 exploit every creek and affluent as mr as Irebu and Boiobo. 
 Ubangi ; at Kimbangu, on the south bank of Stanley 
 Pool, and at Malima, on the north bank, he has a faith- 
 ful factor ; while at Boiobo he keeps a hundred armed 
 slaves. Yet Manguru, now well advajiced in years, 
 paddles his own canoe along the river front of the 
 district, trading from one place to another daily. It 
 is this Rothschild of Boiobo who induced Gratula to 
 
 A SPECIMEN OF THE BY-YANZI 
 
 {Bij Mr. Glave.) 
 
 choose hetvv^eon two evils — war, or forfeit of money, and 
 by his arguments convinced him that to lose money 
 was a less evil than the loss of his life and property. 
 
 On the 28th of May the flotilla set out from Boiobo 
 for the establishment of two stations on the Upper 
 Congo. The expedition was accompanied by three 
 guides — Msenne, from Mswata, and two slaves belong- 
 ing to Ibaka, who knew well the countries of Uyanzi 
 and Ubangi.
 
 4 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. The upper j^ortion of Bolobo presents many excellent 
 
 May 28. . . . . . 
 
 Bolobo. ^^^^^ ^^^ stations, with commanding views, but unfortu- 
 nately they are at present beyond our means. To be 
 able to build healthy dwelHng houses on these sites one 
 must be well assured that the natives will open their 
 markets to us. If a garrison of 100 men could be 
 stationed at Bolobo, then the place would become an 
 emporium of trade. Uritil that time, however, we are 
 forced to seek some village or villages, with the chiefs 
 of which we can live in mutual dependence. 
 
 Beyond Bolobo we have a bluff-faced highland ex- 
 tending for about five miles in a north-easterly direc- 
 tion. In a cove at its upper extremity, where it leaves 
 the river, there lives a tribe of Wa-nunu, who immedi- 
 ately on seeing the flotilla advancing, disported them- 
 selves along their sandy shore most ferociously, judging 
 by their manoeuvres. But, poor souls, how mucli we 
 were misjudged ! Even had they kept up the fierce 
 play till doomsday we would not have had aught of 
 unfriendliness for them. Such love as we jjossessed 
 for them was simply immeasureable. 
 
 The flotilla sheered off a little into deeper water, and 
 passed on with silent and unoffending crews and 
 passengers. 
 
 Beyond the village was low forested land, which 
 either came in dense black towering masses of impene- 
 trable vegetation to the waterside, or else ran in great 
 semicircles half enclosing grassy flats, whereon the 
 hippopotami fed at night time. 
 
 The Congo was now enormously wide ; from five to
 
 UPPER CONGO SCENERY. 5 
 
 eight channels separated one from another by as many isss. 
 lines of islets (some of which were miles in length), on uoioio. 
 which the Landoljia florida, or rubber plant, flourished, 
 of the value of which the natives as yet know nothing. 
 Tamarinds, baobab, bombax, redwood, Elais guinecnsis, 
 palm-tree, wild date-palm, Calamus indicus, with the 
 hardy stink-wood, made np a dense mass of trees and 
 creepers of such formidable thickness that no one was 
 even inspired to examine what treasures of plants 
 might be revealed by a closer investigation of the vege- 
 table life thriving on these humps of dark alluvium 
 in Mid-Congo. 
 
 Few could imagine that a slow ascent up the Congo 
 in steamers going only two and a half knots against the 
 current of the great river could be otherwise than mo- 
 notonous. Taken as a whole, the scenery of the Upper 
 Congo is uninteresting ; perhaps the very slow rate of 
 ascent has left that impression. But we were also tired 
 of the highland scenery in the Lower Congo. We de- 
 clared ourselves tired of looking at naked rock cliffs, 
 and rufous ragged slopes 600 feet in height. Before 
 we were through the circular enlargement of the Congo 
 at Stanley Pool we also confessed ourselves wearied ; 
 when we voyaged up along the base of the massive 
 mountain lines above it to Chumbiri we sighed for 
 a change ; and now, when we have a month's journey 
 by islets, low shores, of grassy levels, and banks of thick 
 vegetation and forest, we are menaced with the same 
 ennui. But let us be just. Our feeling of weariness 
 arises from the fact that our accommodations are so
 
 B THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. limited that we are oblifred to sit down or stand np 
 
 Jlay 28. ^ ^ ^ • i 
 
 Boiobo. all the long way. The eyes, the only organs exercised, 
 are easily sated. The weariness is only created by 
 our compulsory inactivity. Our eyes are feasting con- 
 tinually upon petty details, of the nature of which we 
 are scarcely conscious. The flitting of a tiny sun-bird, 
 the chirping weavers at their nests; the despondent 
 droop of a long calamus whicli cannot find support, 
 and wliich, like the woodbine, flourishes best when it 
 has a tall stem to cling to ; the bamboo-like reeds ; the 
 swaying- tufted head of an overgrown papyrus ; the 
 floating by of a Pistia stratiotes-, a flock of screech- 
 ing parrots hurrying by overhead ; that great yawning 
 hippopotamus lazily preparing for a plunge into his 
 watery bed; that log-like form of the crocodile, roused 
 from his meditations, loth to go, but compelled by the 
 whirr of paddle-wheels to submerge himself; those 
 springing monkeys, skurrying in their leafy homes 
 away from the increasing noise ; that white-collared fish 
 eagle out-spreading his wings for flight ; that darting 
 diver and little kingfisher hurrying ahead, heralding 
 our approach ; yonder flock of black ibis alarmingly 
 screaming their harsh cries ; that little blue-throated 
 fantail which has just hopped away from the yellow- 
 blossomed acacia bush ; those little industrious wagtails 
 pecking away so briskly on the sandy strip by the edge 
 of the forest ; there is a jay which has just fled into the 
 woods ; look at those long-legged flamingoes at that 
 spit of land ; and — but the details are endless, for every 
 minute of time has its incident. As for your own
 
 THE MISSISSIPPI AND THE CONGO. 7 
 
 fancies, during this day trance, created mainly by what i883. 
 you see as the banks ghde steadily past, wlio will Boiobo. 
 dare to fathom them ? They come in rapid succes- 
 sion on the mind, in various shapes, rank after rank. 
 Unsteadfast as the grey clouds which you see to 
 the westward, they pile into cities, and towns, and 
 mountains, growing ever larger, more intense, but 
 still ever wavering and undergoing quick transitions 
 of form. The flowing river, the vast dome of sky ; 
 the aspiring clouds on the horizon ; the purpling 
 blue, as well as the dark spectral isles of the stream ; 
 the sepulchral gloom beneath the impervious forest 
 foliage; those swaying reeds; that expanse of sere- 
 coloured grassy plain ; that grey clay bank, speckled 
 with the red roots of some shrub ; that narrow path- 
 way through the forest — all suggest some new thought, 
 some fancy which cannot be long pursued, since it 
 is constantly supplanted by other ideas suggested 
 by something new, which itself is but a momentary 
 flash. 
 
 But supposing that a steamer similar to those we 
 have on the Mississippi bore you up the Congo, rushing 
 up stream at the rate of twelve knots an hour against 
 the current, while you could travel up and down a long, 
 broad deck protected by a sun-proof awning, with 
 luxurious board and lodging at your command, your 
 view of the Congo would be very different. 1 do 
 believe you would express a preference for it to any 
 river known to you. You would naturally think of 
 comparisons. The Rhine ? Why the Rhine, even
 
 8 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. including its most picturesque parts, is only a micro- 
 May 28, 
 Boiobo. scopic miniature of the Lower Congo ; but we must 
 
 have the Rhine steamer, and its wine and food and 
 accommodations to be able to see it properly. The 
 Mississippi ? The Congo is one and a half times larger 
 than the Mississippi, and certainly from eiglit to ten 
 times broader. You may take your choice of nearly 
 a dozen channels, and you will see more beautiful vege- 
 tation on the Congo than on the American river. The 
 latter lacks tbe palm and the calamus, while the former 
 has a dozen varieties of the palm. Besides, it possesses 
 herds of hippopotami, crocodiles innumerable ; monkeys 
 are gleefully romping on the islands and the main; 
 elephants are standing sentry-like in the twilight of the 
 dark forests by the river side; buffaloes red and black 
 are grazing on the lich grass plains ; there are flocks 
 of ibis, black and white parrots, parroquets, and guinea- 
 fowl. The Mississippi is a decent greyish-coloured 
 stream, confined between two low banks, with here and 
 there a town of frame houses and brick. The Congo is 
 of a tea-colour on its left half, and on its right half it 
 is nearly chalky white. You take your choice, tea or 
 milk, red or Rhine wine. And as for the towns, why, 
 I hope the all-gracious Providence will bless our 
 labour, and they will come by-and-by ; meantime there 
 is room enough, and to spare, to stow the half of Europe 
 comfortably on its spacious borders. The Nile ? Ask 
 any of those gallant English soldiers who have tugged 
 their way among the Nile cataracts, what they think 
 of the Nile to spend a holiday upon. The Danube ?
 
 WOOD-CUTTING. 9 
 
 All, it is not to be mentioned with the Conj^o for i883. 
 
 May 28. 
 
 scenery ! The Volga ? Still worse. The Amazon ? By boiobo. 
 no means. You will have to ascend very far up the 
 Amazon before you will see anything approaching 
 Congo scenery. 
 
 Well, you must admit then that if the Congo could 
 be seen from the deck of a commodious steamer, this 
 feeling of weariness which we have to contend against 
 now while ascending at this snail's pace against the 
 current, because we have no room to move about, 
 would be replaced by a more grateful and a cheerier 
 mood. 
 
 At 5 P.M. we generally camp after an advance of 
 from twenty to thirty miles up river. Thirty miles 
 would be unusually good progress, because there is fuel 
 to be cut with axes and saws, and it will take till nine 
 o'clock at night to cut sufficient for next day's steam- 
 ing. From 5 to 6.30 p.m. all hands excepting the 
 cooks are engaged in gathering wood, half-dead logs, 
 or dead trees, which have to be cut into portable 
 sizes for transport to the camp. When darkness 
 falls a great fire is lit, under the light of which the 
 wood-choppers fall to and cut the logs into foot lengths 
 for the boilers. The sound of smiting axes rings 
 through the dark grove, to be re-echoed by the op])osite 
 forest, and borne along the face of the river to a great 
 distance. It is varied by the woodman's chant ; a 
 chorus is struck up, and under its stirring vocal notes a 
 new impetus is given, and the axes are struck stirringly 
 rapid. What a moral lesson for vapid- minded white
 
 10 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. men mio-ht be drawn from these efforts of untutored 
 
 May 28. 
 
 Boiobo. blacks to get through their tasks ! 
 
 Meantime, at dusk, each steamer's crew of white 
 officers and passengers will be fouixl around their 
 dinner-tables on deck or on the bank, if the camp 
 has permitted it ; the lamplight tinging their faces 
 w'ith a rosier hue than the sallow comjolexion which 
 the sun has bestowed on them. 
 
 Of food there is abundance, but not much variety. 
 It may comprise soup of beans or vegetables, followed 
 by toasted chikwanga (cassava-bread), fried or stewed 
 fowl, a roast fowl, or a roast leg of goat meat, a dish 
 of desiccated potatoes, and, if we have been fortunate 
 in our purchases, some sweet potatoes, or yams, roast 
 bananas, boiled beans, rice and curry, or rices with 
 honey, or rice and milk, finishing with tea or coffee, or 
 palm-wine. 
 
 It is insipid food for breakfast and dinner through- 
 out a term of three years. A few months of this diet 
 makes the European sigh for his petit verre, Astrachan 
 caviar, mock-turtle, salmon — with sauce HoUandaise 
 —filet de bo?uf, with perhaps a pastete and poularde 
 mit compote und salat. For if a German, however can 
 he live without his dear compote ? Then, how nice, 
 he thinks, would fruit, cheese, and dessert be on the 
 Congo. How glorious a view of Congo life one could 
 take when exhilarated by half a pint of champagne. 
 
 I think, indeed^ that the eternal " fowl " of the Congo, 
 and the unvarying slices of chikwanga, with which 
 our youDg ofTicers are fed, deserves three-fourths of
 
 NATIVE SURPHISE AT THE STEAMERS. 11 
 
 the blame now lavished on " murderous Africa." It i883. 
 IS only a grand moral manhood like Livmgstone's Boiobo. 
 that rises above these petty vanities of a continental 
 stomach. Think of his thirty-two years' life in Africa, 
 and of the unsophisticated mannikins who to-day are 
 digging their eyes out with weeping at the memories 
 of a European restaurant before they have been 
 scarcely three months out ! 
 
 There is not much to converse about on the Congo 
 after our stomachs are full of the heavy chikwanga, 
 and as we all know that — 
 
 " The time of life is short ; 
 To spend that little basely were too long." 
 
 We retire early to spend it well in sleeping, that we 
 may be better fitted for the next day's weary voyaging 
 up the great African river, 
 
 Ungende was our first night's camp above Boiobo. 
 The Bj^-yanzi were very friendly at first, but at sunset 
 their fears made them hostile, and they were not 
 quieted until all our people were ordered to make 
 their reedy couches near the steamers. 
 
 The next day we travelled up by very pleasant liills. 
 We passed villages, banana-groves, palmy groups, and 
 deep green forest in agreeable alternations. These are 
 the Levy Hills, and end at the magnificent and airy red 
 bluffs of lyumbi. The people looked out upon us in 
 stupid wonder from under the shade of their bananas, 
 seemingly saying, " What curious phase of existence 
 have we entered upon now ? Verily, an epoch has
 
 12 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. dawned upon our lives ; but what it sisrnifies let those 
 
 May 29. ^^ ° 
 
 Ungende. auswer wlio cau ! " 
 
 And we, looking out from under our awnings, ap- 
 pear to say, " Ay, gaze, oh men and women, upon 
 these three symbols of civilisation. Ye see things 
 to-day which the oldest and wisest inhabitant of your 
 land never heard or dreamed of, and yet the}^ are but 
 tiny types of self-moving leviathans that plough the 
 raging sea by night as well as by day ! " 
 
 Two hours above lyumbi we lost our way. Tlie 
 chaTinels were numerous. A reedy flat had appeared 
 above lyumbi, to which we clung in order not to lose 
 sight of the mainland ; and coming to a narrow creek 
 we ran in, expecting, although its direction was a little 
 too easterly, that perhaps we should emerge on the 
 Congo. There was a sluggish current in it, and we 
 kept on, but after seventeen miles it narrowed, and 
 reeds finally stopped further passage, and we had to 
 return, opposite the village of Ikulu. 
 
 We had not perceived many villages as we had 
 steamed along ; but in coming back we sighted about 
 twenty canoes in the creek advancing towards us. 
 They had appeared from some direction through the 
 reeds. These, on seeing us, hastily turned back, but 
 wishing to know from them which route to take, the 
 En Avant cast off the whale-boat which she had been 
 towing, and steamed after them at full speed. 
 
 Not until we had run five miles could we overtake 
 the flying flotilla, and then we found that their crews 
 were women, who to escape us, dashed into the reeds,
 
 LUEOLELA. 13 
 
 and splashed clumsily with water up to their necks to i^^s, 
 
 '^ May 30. 
 
 reach the shore. Not a word would they answer ; but ikuiu. 
 stood, on reaching the shore, sulkily regarding us. 
 As we steamed six knots an hour, an idea may be 
 gained of the speed which the natives when pressed in 
 their canoes attain. These also were mere fishino* 
 pirogues. Had they been war canoes it is likely our 
 steamer would have been beaten in the race. 
 
 On the 31st of May we had a tolerably fair journey, 
 but the wind blew down river, and impeded ns. Two 
 trading canoes with twenty paddlers in each were over- 
 taken, which kept pace with us the rest of the day, 
 and camped sociably with us on a park-like terrace, 
 which showed soft young grass, while the forest ran 
 in a deep black semicircle behind us. The By-yanzi 
 canoe-men were bound for Ubangi. 
 
 Oq the 1st of June, after following a dense forest 
 for nine hours, we drew near another settlement. 
 Our provisions were running exceedingly low. Eighty 
 coloured men and seven Europeans consume at least 
 250 lbs. weight of food daily. Since leaving Bolobo, 
 nearly half a ton weight of provisions had been eaten. 
 It behoved us then to prepare ourselves for barter 
 with the community in view, which our guides called 
 Lukolela. 
 
 The settlement ran along a crescented bend of the 
 river, above a steep clay bank ranging from 5 feet to 
 25 feet above the water, in a clearing cut out of the 
 finest forest I had yet seen. The trees had not been 
 much thiimed, so that from a distance, but for the
 
 r4 TSE CONGO. 
 
 1883 grey gleam of huts and the green sheen of bananas, 
 Lukoieia. it would have been difficult to tell that a settlement 
 so large as Lukoieia existed here. The islands also 
 showed glorious growths of timber. We began steam- 
 ing slowly the while to initiate acquaintance at the 
 very lowest village. There was no answer rendered, 
 but the groups of bronze-bodied people grew larger 
 and more numerous. We unrolled crimson savelist, 
 bright red royal handkerchiefs, striped florentines, 
 lengths of blue baft, held out fistfuls of brass rods, 
 and suspended long necklaces of brightest beads. 
 Msenne of Mswata stood up on the cabin-deck of the 
 En Avanf, the observed of all observers, admired for 
 his pose and his action, and delivered his oration with 
 a voice which might be envied by an auctioneer. 
 
 *' Ho, Wy-yanzi, ti'ibesmen of Lukoieia, sons of luka 
 and Mungawa, whose names are beloved by my lord 
 and chief Gobila ! Ho, you men ! Know you not 
 Gobila — Gobila of Mswata, the friend of Wy-yanzi ? " 
 said Gobila to me. " Here, take Bula Matari, the 
 only Bula Matari, the good Bula Matari ! " 
 
 " Hush, Msenne' ; that is not the way to speak. You 
 are laughing at me," I urged, for my modesty was 
 shocked. 
 
 " Never mind ; Msenne knows the way into the 
 heart of the Wy-yanzi. Ha ! it takes me to conquer 
 their obduracy." 
 
 "Wy-yanzi of Lukoieia, here sits Bula Matavi ! He 
 has come here to make friends with you. He wants 
 food. He is prepared to pay well. Now is the time
 
 June 1. 
 Lukolela. 
 
 A POOR RECEPTIOX 15 
 
 for Inka and Mungawa to show themselves kind friends i883. 
 to Bula Matari." 
 
 Then up and spoke Ibaka's slaver. 
 
 " See here, men of Lukolela, we are the servants of 
 Ibaka — Ibaka of Bolobo ! Ibaka has made brotherhood 
 with Bula Matari. Ibaka commanded us to take him 
 to you. Let your chiefs, luka and Mungawa, come out 
 and give the good word." 
 
 The steamers held on their way. The stentorian 
 accents of Msenne were heard far above the escape of 
 waste steam. The cloths were unrolled before every 
 village. At the third village, however, a reply came 
 that all the chiefs were dead, and that small-[)Ox had 
 decimated the inhabitants, and that famine was killing 
 the people that were left ! 
 
 " Frightful," we exclaimed. " But those men on the 
 banks look too fat to be suffering from famine." 
 
 We came to the upper extremity of the community, 
 which occupied about five miles of the left bank, and 
 half an hour later we came to where the Congo con- 
 tracted and issued out a stately united flood 1;^ miles 
 wide from the right bank to the left bank. Hoping 
 that if we camped in the neighbourhood we should be 
 followed, we prepared to put up for the night in the 
 forest. 
 
 As we anticipated, the natives soon came up, and 
 fowls, goats, ripe and gi'een plantains and bananas, 
 cassava rolls, cassava flour, sweet potatoes, yams, eggs, 
 and palm oil were bartered so speedily that by sunset 
 we had sufficient to last two or three days. Still, as we
 
 16 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. were ignorant how f;ir we might have to proceed before 
 Lukoieia. meeting with another market so well supplied as this, 
 we agreed to resume the marketing next morning. 
 
 At sunrise the following day canoe after canoe 
 appeared, and the barter was so successfully conducted 
 •that we had soon secured three dozen fowls, four goats, 
 a sheep, and eight days' rations for each member of the 
 coloured force. The fear the natives entertained of the 
 strange steamer was now changed for liveliest admira- 
 tion. We were no longer supposed to be laden with 
 mischief, but full of "good things." They had informed 
 us that they were dying of famine yesterday, but this 
 day plenty had come back to them, their chiefs lived, 
 and no plague or pest decimated the people ! 
 
 We asked them slyly what was the cause of this 
 remarkable change. 
 
 " Oh," they replied, " why do you remember what we 
 said in our fear of jow. Neither our oldest people nor 
 their fathers before them ever saw or heard of such 
 things as these," pointing to the steamers. 
 
 As it was a capital position for a station, we delicately 
 hinted to them that on our return we should have some 
 more words with them. 
 
 The people of Lukoieia some twenty years ago lived 
 on the right bank, but the Irebu warriors, during a little 
 misunderstanding with them, descended the river and 
 attacked and burnt their villages; upon which, after 
 peace was restored, they crossed the Congo and esta- 
 blished themselves on the left bank in the noble forest 
 along the river.
 
 NO OMSK 17 
 
 Two hours steaming midday on tlie 2nd of June took isss. 
 us tlirough the whole length of this narrow and singular Lukoieia 
 contraction of the Congo. The left bank rises into a 
 hill probably 100 feet above the river, nourishing mag- 
 nificent timber ; the right bank also shows that it is 
 much higher than the ground above or below this 
 strait-like contraction of the river channel, and is also 
 remarkable for its fine trees. Still clinging to the left 
 bank of the river, we entered a narrow channel between 
 islets exuberant with flourishing forests, and low shores 
 showing alternately prairie levels, and low, tree-clad 
 ridges running perpendicularly to the river. 
 
 We passed three villages, which sent out scouts to us 
 with fresh fish to sell, and to glean intelligence about 
 the strange craft that made such unusual noises. They 
 were too small and insignificant to induce us to delay 
 our advance. 
 
 On the evening of this day as we were at camp in 
 a deserted village two hours above the highest of these 
 villages, fourteen dense divisions of small birds were 
 seen flying from the direction of the right to the left 
 bank, and a straggling army of large birds of the size 
 of crows followed till the dusk deepened ; they were 
 too high to enable me to distinguish them. 
 
 On the evening of the next day, liaving selected a 
 camp a few miles below Ngombe, two canoes approached 
 us, calling out the name of " Stanley " with excellent 
 pronunciation. They had picked up the name by some 
 odd fashion, and would doubtless have hailed the first 
 white with it in the same way. They only wished to sell 
 Vol. II.— 2
 
 18 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. fish and young crocodiles. Our engineers, from pure 
 
 June 3. 
 
 Ngombe. ^^^^ patronised them, and purchased one young croco- 
 dile, of whose character we came to know a great deal 
 before he deserted us. The crocodihan character, from 
 what we discovered of it, would make a fine one for a 
 novel. The ungrateful little beast, lashed to a strong 
 tree close to the river, despite our kindness to him, 
 deserted our expedition during the night. Lukolela 
 finds the hatching of crocodiles to be remunerative. 
 When nests are discovered, they take the eggs and 
 place them in sand in a locality little disturbed, and 
 when the shell is broken and the young emerge, 
 they are placed in a pond which is carefully covered 
 with a net. They are here fed until they have attained 
 a certain weight and size ; and on market days they 
 are taken out to be sold. 
 
 On the 4th of June we passed several populous 
 districts, first Ngombe', which is situated at another 
 contraction of the Congo similar to the one described 
 at Lukolela. Below and above Ngombe the river is 
 from four to six miles wide ; but at the strait all the 
 various channels of the Congo are united in one stream, 
 which flows nearly two miles wide with a strong current. 
 On the left bank is Ngombe, high and dry on a level 
 about 40 feet above the river, with a wealth of banana- 
 groves and other signs of abundance. 
 
 A few miles higher up than the Strait of Ngombe' 
 is the district of Nkuku, inhabited by a people that 
 showed a strong inclination to trade. They followed 
 us for such a distance, offering articles for sale without
 
 CORDIAL RECEPTION OF USINDL 19 
 
 success, until tliey showed us a couple of Muscovy ducks, i883. 
 which we bouo-ht with the value of \s. 4c/. each. vi, i. 
 
 Two hours later we arrived opposite Butunu, at 
 which the natives raised frantic cries expressive of 
 delight. " Malamu ! malarau ! " (" Good ! good ! ") was 
 echoed from end to end. 
 
 One hour beyond Butunu we came to the populous 
 district of Usindi, the inhabitants of which were out- 
 rageous in their clamours of applause. These were 
 so irrepressible in their joy that a hearty response 
 from our side was not deemed enough. About a 
 hundred manned their canoes, followed us, bawled 
 at us, and finally stormed at us in a friendly manner, 
 until we halted. Eleven fellows immediately came 
 aboard the En Avanf, sprawled over everybody, shook 
 hands with white and black, old and young, and 
 when they saw the black boiler they seemed to look so 
 earnestly at it that it might have been thought tiiey 
 would embrace it. More of these thoughtless, irre- 
 pressible rogues would have come aboard had we per- 
 mitted it, but as we were already captured we yielded 
 and steamed back again to the landing-place of Usindi, 
 the hardy eleven looking as proud as though they had 
 done a gallant deed worthy of the Victoria or the Iron 
 cross. 
 
 On the shore a perfect hurst of joyful welcoming 
 met us. Such an extraordinary people ! Nkuku 
 smiled on us ; Butunu hailed us as friends, but 
 Usindi shot out to midstream to embrace us ! This 
 remarkable and sudden develojDment of friendship
 
 20 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. among people 300 miles above Stanley Pool excited 
 
 June 4. 
 
 Usindi. wonder for some hours, until they told us that many of 
 their people had seen Le'opoldville and Kintamo, and 
 had seen our big house and wagons and boats in the 
 port. 
 
 Our reception at Usindi was so warm and friendly 
 that we passed a very agreeable time there until noon 
 of the 5th. luka, the chief, would have given me half 
 of his village had we asked for it — anything, did we 
 but agree to stop and build with them. They were a 
 most polite people, I observed, being all unanimous to 
 abstain from giving the least offence or alarm, and 
 keeping back every warlike weapon from coming 
 into view. I may say this was the first spot out of 
 civilisation that I saw any such polite delicacy. Con- 
 fident in their own strength, I presume, they thought 
 it was not necessary to have recourse to the barbarous 
 art of terrorising. 
 
 Seventy minutes above Usindi we entered a deep 
 channel 300 yards wide, between a reedy island, as we 
 imagined it to be, and a still larger settlement, or 
 cluster of towns, than the one we had just left. The 
 shore along its entire length was lined with hundreds 
 of bronze-bodied people, but not one voice was heard 
 calling out to us. This we took to be an omen of dis- 
 trust, and affected to pass on ; but we had not proceeded 
 more than a few miles up the channel before we were 
 aware we were pursued. We halted and permitted the 
 canoemen to approach. They bore to us, tbey said, an 
 invitation to visit Mangombo, chief of Irebu.
 
 THE nOME OF THE CHAMPION TRADEBS. 21 
 
 Of course we knew it was tlie populous district of isss. 
 Irebu, the home of the champion traders on the Upper 1,.^,^,^ 
 Congo, rivalled only in numbers and enterprise by 
 Ubangi on the right bank. Irebu traders, descending 
 in canoes, overwhelmed the aborigines of Lukolela, as 
 the latter themselves had admitted. They had mastered 
 populous Ngombe', awed Nkuku, Butimu and Usindi, 
 and we had heard vague rumours that they had taught 
 the fierce Bangala to treat their traders with respect. 
 It was in fact a Venice of the Congo, seated in the 
 pride of its great numbers between the dark waters of 
 the Lukanga and the deep brown channels of the 
 parent stream. 
 
 There were hundreds of people standing eagerly 
 expectant of the arrival of the flotilla in the covelet 
 of Upper Irebu, men, women and children, from the 
 very old and grey-heailed to the young naked copper- 
 skinned gamin. Though so numerous, an instinctive 
 hush governed the crowd into deep silence as the 
 engines stopped and the boats glided to their berths 
 along the shore. Not until the crew leaped over the 
 gunwales with the anchors, and the chains ceased 
 running through the brazen chocks, was the silence 
 broken, and then a muffled murmur of applause was 
 heard as each remarked to the other his admiration of 
 the vessels. 
 
 Mangombo, with a curious long staff a fathom and a 
 half in length, having a small spade of brass at one 
 end, much resembling a baker's cake-spade, stood in 
 front. He was a man probably sixty years old, but
 
 22 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. active, and by no means a^ed-lookins^, and he waited 
 
 June 6. o o 
 
 irebu. to greet me. On going ashore my hand was grasped 
 by Mangombo and about half-a-dozen of the principal 
 men, and we sought the shade of a convenient tree 
 by the waterside to talk. 
 
 I was very soon impressed by the intelligent appear- 
 ance of the men grouped around me. Tl^ey had an air 
 of worldly knowledge and travel about them, very dif- 
 ferent from the stupid bewildering wonderment with 
 "which we were so familiar. For these people were 
 really acquainted with many lands and tribes on the 
 Upper Congo. From Stanley Pool to Upoto, a distance 
 of 600 miles, they knew every landing-place on the 
 river banks. All the ups and downs of savage life, all 
 the profits and losses derived from barter, all the diplo- 
 matic arts used by tactful savages were as well known 
 to them as the Roman alphabet is to us. They knew 
 the varied lengths of the sina ("long" of cloth), the 
 number of matako (brass rods) they were worth, 
 whether of savelist, florentine, unbleached domestic, 
 twill, stripe, ticking, blue and white baft ; the value of 
 beads per thousand strings, as compared with uncut 
 pieces of sheeting, or kegs of gunpowder, or flint-lock 
 muskets, short and long. They could tell, by poising 
 on the arm, what profit on an ivory tusk purchased 
 at Langa-Langa would be derived by sale at Stanley 
 Pool! 
 
 No wonder that all this mercantile knowledge had 
 left its traces on their faces ; indeed it is the same as in 
 your own cities of Europe. Know you not the military
 
 NATIVE KNOWLEDGE OF TRADE. 23 
 
 man among you, the lawyer or the merchant, the isss. 
 banker, the artist or the poet ? It is the same in Africa, ifebu.* 
 more especially on the Congo, where the people are so 
 devoted to trade. There is a slight difference, however, 
 in the features (or rather air diffused over them) of the 
 resident trader and the trading navigator. The resident 
 may be a sharp man at a bargain, but he is as likely as 
 not to be boorish, rustic, or unsophisticated in manner. 
 On the other hand, the Wy-yanzi traders of Usindi, 
 Butunu, Ubangi, and Irebu are sedate and self-pos- 
 sessed in their deportment, while a certain frank 
 business-like directness and open-minded simplicity 
 may be observed in their mode of speech. At the 
 same time they are barbarous enough not to be averse 
 from fighting on occasion. They quite surprised me, 
 after a careful and analytical perusal of their features, 
 by declaring they were even then at war ! Upper 
 Irebu was at war with Lower Irebu ! The guns could 
 be heard even then at it, though I had not the slightest 
 idea they were fighting. 
 
 Generally the first day of acquaintance with the 
 Congo river tribes is devoted to chatting, sounding one 
 another's principles, and getting at one another's ideas. 
 The chief entertains his guest with gifts of food, goats, 
 beer, fish, &c. ; then on the next day commences business 
 and reciprocal exchange of gifts. So it was at Irebu. 
 
 Mangombo gave four hairy thin-tailed sheep, ten 
 glorious bunches of bananas, two great pots of beer, and 
 the usual accompaniments of small stores. 
 
 The next day we made blood brotherhood. The
 
 24 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. fetish-man pricked each of our right arms, pressed the 
 irebu. blood out, then, with a pinch of scrapings from my gun- 
 stock, a Httle saU, a few dusty scrapings from a long 
 pod, dropped over the wounded arms, and the black 
 and white arms were mutually rubbed together. The 
 fetish-man took the long pod in his hand and slightly 
 touched our necks, our heads, our arms, and our legs, 
 muttering rapidly his litany of incantations. What 
 was left of the medicine Mangombo and I carefully 
 folded in a banana leaf, and we bore it reverently 
 between us to a banana grove close by, and buried tiie 
 dust out of sight. 
 
 Mangombo, now my brother, by solemn interchange 
 of blood, consecrated to my service as I was devoted 
 in the sacred fetish bond to his service, revealed his 
 trouble, and implored my aid. The notables of Irebu 
 were gathered round us, and then Mangombo spoke, of 
 which the following is the substance : 
 
 " Some time ago I sent three canoes to Iboko (Ban- 
 gala). My men traded prosperously ; they had obtained 
 A valuable cargo of ivory, and were about returning, 
 when a sudden quarrel took place between the Ban gala 
 and Irebu. Our people were on shore; they fought 
 stubbornly to save their ivory ; out of seventy people 
 thirty-three were killed ; thirty-seven of them managed 
 to save a few tusks, seized one of their canoes, and 
 paddled away to tell us this dismal story. Of course 
 all trade was stopped. Of those thirty-three men who 
 were slain in the fight, twenty-eight were of my town ; 
 but five belonged to Lower Irebu. You must know
 
 WAE IN IREBU. 25 
 
 that the community of Irebu is divided into three parts isss. 
 
 •^ ^ ^ . June 6. 
 
 — Lower, Upper, and Central Irebn. Magwala is chief irebu. 
 of Lower Irebu ; Mpika is chief of Central Irebu ; I 
 am lord of the upper portion. Magwala and Mangombo 
 are the principal chiefs, and before this misfortune, 
 which I am about to tell you, occurred, I was con- 
 sidered the superior chief of all. Some months after 
 the massacre of our young men at Iboko, a flotilla of 
 Bangala canoes were seen going down river bound to 
 Ngombe. Mpika heard of this, and giving chase 
 captured a canoe with eight of the Bangala on board. 
 Mpika, forgetting that I had lost twenty-eight men to 
 his five, did not deign to let me have my share of the 
 prisoners, but when I sent to him asking him to be 
 fair, he replied, ' No ; they were my men who captured 
 them. I keep these in revenge for my five. Go you 
 and do likewise, for I. will not give you one of my 
 prisoners.' On appealing to Magwala, he answered 
 that Mpika was right, and should keep what he had 
 obtained by force of arms. My people, however, were 
 not satisfied with this ; their loss was too recent and 
 too great, and they forced me to declare war. About 
 ten days ago we began it. I have lost six more of my 
 people in four fights : over twenty of my men have 
 been wounded. Magwala and Mpika have also lost 
 heavily. Irebu lifts its hands against Irebu ; friends 
 and brothers slay one another. All trade is stopped. 
 We go out and come in by night only. The women 
 of Irebu are mourning daily ; and if this evil, which is 
 worse even than the small-pox, continues much longer.
 
 26 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. Irebii will be no longer known as tlie strongest tribe 
 
 June 6. . 
 
 ij.gj,u on the great river. 
 
 " Now, Bula Matari, you have come in good time 
 to save us from this mutual slaughter. We have 
 heard of you years ago. Chumbiri told us your name 
 was Stanley. When you were coming down river 
 with your many canoes, we lay in wait for you behind 
 that large island, but we did not attack you. We 
 heard of Bula Matari building towns at Kintamo, at 
 Mswata, and Bolobo ; but we did not know who Bula 
 Matari was, until Ibaka, some moons past, told us that 
 Bula Matari was Stanley. You belong to Irebu now. 
 You must save Irebu from death and ruin." 
 
 " Mangombo," I replied, " I should like to do it, but 
 I have other work before me. I must go to Ikengo 
 first, and on my return I will do what I can. Mean- 
 time, stop fighting." 
 
 " Ah, that is easy to say ! but Mngwala and Mpika 
 must also stop fighting. Will you speak to them?" 
 
 " I will send a boat to tell them that Mangombo has 
 asked me to settle the war, but that I cannot stay 
 now ; and I will ask them to w^ait until I return 
 to make peace." 
 
 Enough has been said, as near to Mangombo's own 
 words as the necessities of this book will permit, of this 
 internecine war which was raging in one of the most 
 flourishing and populous districts on the Upper Congo. 
 According to my promise I proceeded in my boat 
 opposite Mpika and Magwala's landing-phices, and 
 offered to me'liate between the contending factions, on
 
 LUKANOA RIVER. 27 
 
 the condition tliat they would refrain from hostilities i883. 
 
 June 6. 
 
 during fifteen days. Mpika consented immediately, as i^^^^^ 
 it fortunately turned out that he was the blood-brother 
 of Lieutenant Janssen at Mswata, and that he origi- 
 nally owned the large canoe then lashed alongside of 
 the steam-launch Royal. Magwala was not so willing to 
 agree to the compact of truce, but was finally prevailed 
 upon by his friend Mpika. 
 
 I observed that in the covelet of Upper Irebu there 
 was no curi'ent, and I suspected that there must be 
 another lake in the vicinity, and on inquiry I ascer- 
 tained that there was " big water " a few hours' journey 
 up the Lukanga ; but the Congo tribes are in daily 
 presence of such large bodies of water, that the vicinity 
 of a lake appears to be nothing extraordinary to them. 
 It is only with inland peoples that it becomes a worthy 
 topic to boast of lakes. This accounts for the great 
 difficulty of exciting sufficient interest in these riverine 
 tribes to draw from them exact information. They 
 always use the terms " plenty of water," " big water,'* 
 " big river," which I find by experience to apply 
 equally to streams furnishing just sufficient water for 
 canoe navigation. 
 
 The water of the Lukanga is of the same black 
 colour as the Mfini and Lake Le'opold IL ; and some 
 of the Irebu stated to me that they could reach Gan- 
 kabi's by navigating the Lukanga, Mantumba Lake, 
 and floating down a river to Lake Le'opold II. and the 
 Mfini River. This aroused my curiosity greatly, but 
 I had to defer the investigation of the truth of this
 
 28 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. report until my return from the equatorial district, as 
 
 June 6 
 
 irebu. I had not the means to idly feed eighty people. 
 
 With a guide from Mangombo and Msenne' of 
 Mswata, we set out from the mouth of the Lukanga 
 and Upper Irebu, on the afternoon of the 6th of June, 
 up the Congo. 
 
 Among the topics I heard discussed between the 
 groups of commoners near the landing-place of Irebu 
 was the difference between Stanley and Bula Matari. 
 The majority contended that though Stanley was the 
 first "Mundele" who appeared on the river, and 
 fought everybody who attempted to stop him., yet it 
 was really Bula Matari who sent him to find all about 
 the country, and who owned all the men and canoes. 
 For, look you, Stanley had only canoes like we have, 
 whereas this Bula Matari has only one canoe ; all the 
 rest are boats that we never saw the like anywhere. 
 No : Stanley must be Bula Matari's vizier, or big 
 captain ; for, you see, Bula Matari has many towns, 
 and thousands upon thousands of bales of cloth. 
 " Stanley gave proper measure of brass rods ; when 
 we go to Kintamo we shall ask for Stanley's brass 
 rods ; they are half as long again as the rods of the 
 Bateke at the Pool." 
 
 The notables of Irebu were urgent for the medicine 
 to make wealth grow quickly. I imparted to them 
 the lesson of trading, but this advice they rejected with 
 scorn and contempt. They knew well enough how to 
 trade, but their wealth they confessed never increased. 
 
 *' You," said they, " must have some charm by which
 
 COOKING THE BIG FOT. 29 
 
 your store increases without car6. We saw at Kintamo i883. 
 
 June 6. 
 
 one day your shelves all empty; the very next day irebu 
 when we called they were filled from top to bottom. 
 We wish to know this secret." 
 
 The slaves of Ibaka boasted that they knew it, 
 consequently their hut was besieged with applicants, 
 and they made nearly two hundred brass rods by 
 their extraordinary charlatanry. 
 
 Another subject of interested discussion among the 
 Irebu was, " What was it that turned the paddle-wheels 
 of the En Avantf This was a difficult puzzle to 
 them. Some would have it that there were about 
 twenty men concealed somewhere in the bottom of the 
 steamer. Others doubted that, and hotly maintained 
 that the secret was in that " big pot " (boiler), other- 
 wise why should the cook (engineer) be always near 
 it making up the fire inside. But what was it that 
 the engineer was cooking so industriously ? Ah ! that 
 was another puzzle. 
 
 " Whatever it is," said they, "it takes a long time 
 to cook. That engineer has been cooking all day, and 
 it is not finished yet. It must be a strong medicine 
 that ; and all that large pile of wood has been used up. 
 The two other boats have similar pots, into which their 
 cooks shove in fuel continually. Perhaps if we had also 
 big pots in our canoes, and we had some of the white 
 man's medicine, we need not toil any more with tired 
 arms at our paddles, and suffer from aches and pains in 
 our shoulders." 
 
 Fifty miles above Irebu we came to Ikengo at
 
 30 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. 10 A.M. on the 8th of June. The land between had 
 ikengo, heen almost one unbroken verdant forest, of fine timber 
 — teak, mahogany, guiacum, red and yellow wood, 
 fine gum, plane, and bombax abundant, and frequently 
 of enormous girth. The islands were long, and showed 
 forests of equal height and luxuriance, while their 
 sides presented tangled undergrowths of various species 
 of palms and rattan. 
 
 On the appearance of the flotilla, the Ikengo people 
 dashed out into the stream to meet us, in scores of tiny 
 canoes, all crying out their welcome, and shouting the 
 praises of their various villages, precisely like liotel 
 touters throughout the Levant. 
 
 *' Come to Ikengo/' they cried. "Ikengo is rich; 
 Ikengo has abundance of food." "No, come to Itumbu. 
 Come and see Inganda. Inganda has ivoryc, slaves, 
 women, goats, sheep, pigs. Inganda is blessed with 
 abundance. Stanley, have you forgotten us ; we who 
 traded with you years ago ? Ah, Stanley, come on to 
 Ikengo. There is plenty of beer and wine in Ikengo." 
 And thus these extraordinary people extolled the vir- 
 tues of their respective villages, making the river alive 
 with their increasing throng and restless movement. 
 
 After carefully weighing the various advantages of 
 the villages, since I well recognised the locality, wliich 
 in 1877 provided me by their impromptu market on 
 one of the islands opposite, I chose Inganda as a tem- 
 porary resting-place. 
 
 Like all the Wy-yanzi, from the Kwa upward, the 
 people were of a wholesome, healthy bronze colour, but.
 
 INQANDA. 
 
 31 
 
 unlike the others, they affected caps of monkey, otter, 
 leopard, goat, and antelope skin, while their swords 
 hung suspended by broad shoulder-belts of red buffalo- 
 hide. Cotton cloth, however, was rare anions^ these 
 
 1883. 
 June 8. 
 
 Ikengu. 
 
 A VERY POOR NATIVE OF INGANDA AND HIS DRESS. 
 
 people, their dress being a fine or coarse tissue made of 
 grassy fibre. 
 
 I selected Inganda as a stopping place, whence, 
 while affecting to make preparations for settlement, I 
 might reconnoitre that large affluent the Ikelemba, 
 mentioned in the ' Through the Dark Continent.' Pos-
 
 32 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. sibly I might secure a site at the confluence. If the 
 
 June 11. 
 
 ingauda. natives were too wild to permit of a settlement there, 
 then I might remain at Inganda, and wait the progress 
 of our influeuce. 
 
 Numerous inquiries about the distinctions between 
 the rivers meeting elicited the most confusing I'eplies. 
 The Ikelemba was large ; but when they illustrated the 
 distance between bank and bank by an object near 
 them, the width seemed to vary between 50 and 100 
 yards. This was incredible. In my former book I had 
 stated it to be about 1000 yards wide. I had viewed it 
 personally. These were the same people who formerly 
 had called the river " Ikelemba," or " Buruki." A com- 
 municative aborigine, hailing from Bungata, on the 
 right bank, drew a curve on the ground, and near the 
 middle of its convex side, at equal distances, joined 
 three lines at right angles to it, the lowest marked as 
 the channel coming from Bungata, the second channel 
 flowing from Lulungu, the highest proceeding from 
 Ikelemba River. The upper horn of the curve he 
 named Buruki or Mohindu. The lower horn of the 
 curve was called Inganda, where we were encamped. 
 This curve, then, seemed to represent a river into 
 which three channels ran ; but when I asked him to 
 describe the Mohindu river — Mohindu signifying black 
 — he contemptuously described it to be about twenty- 
 five yards wide ! 
 
 Well, then, what great river was that which I saw 
 approaching the broad Congo, attracting my curious 
 gaze by its magrn'ficent breadth ; tea-dark in colour, as
 
 BURTJKI. 33 
 
 strong a contrast to the flood tliat bore my canoes \m:\. 
 along, as the sable faces of my crew diifered from my jngan.in 
 own ? I was becoming exasperated at my own obtuse- 
 ness, and I was impatient to settle the doubts which 
 ngitated me. 
 
 Leaving the rest of the expedition at Inganda, 1 
 steamed up river in the En Avant, in search of that 
 " mngnificent " and tea-coloured affluent. Within 
 seventy-five minutes I had arrived near the very 
 spot whence I had viewed it six years previouslv, and 
 I felt a glow of satisfaction in again looking upon 
 what I conceived to be tlie greatest tributary of the 
 Congo. I steamed across from the islands to the left 
 mainland, and half-way across the river we entered 
 the tea-hued half of it. On proceeding fairly out of 
 what I considered to be the Congo proper into it, the 
 1000 yards I reduced to 800 yards, but it was deep, 
 with a three-knot current. Four hours above Inganda, 
 during which the "magnificence" of my affluent whs 
 considerably diminished, owing to the fact that three 
 channels had been seen coming from the Congo proper, 
 the river took a decided turn south-east, and then I 
 felt convinced that I was ascending a tributary. But 
 I was not a whit elated at discovering that the Dark 
 River had decreased to a breadth of about 600 yards. 
 
 Buruki, which name the aborigines had repeated so 
 often, was a large town situated on the left bank of 
 the Mohindu, about three miles above the confluence. 
 The shores on either side were low, on the right hand 
 too low to be inhabited, the river water penetrating 
 Vol. 11.— 3
 
 34 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. far over the swampy land. The timluer bad a young 
 liuiuki." but hardy look about it, just such as one would sup- 
 pose would thrive in low lands, although here and 
 there a crown of dark foliage was uplifted high above 
 all others. 
 
 Islands began to be seen, but the disparting of the 
 stream did not improve its dignity. We were fully 
 three hours en route before the banks appeared, so high 
 had tlie river risen. Ink water and dense forests of 
 young trees were not interesting; strictly speaking, 
 they approached to the dismal. The En Avant, unen- 
 cumbered with a boat astern, proceeded rapidly up the 
 even-flowing current, and not a single incident tran- 
 spired, nor a single object hove in view, up to sunset, 
 when we camped on the first trifling bit of dry bank 
 we discovered. 
 
 The character of what I saw of the river inspired 
 me with the impression that it belonged to a delta, 
 having a number of narrow creeks, of wonderful 
 crookedness, constantly emptying into the river. The 
 lowness of the land, the young, yet hardy look of the 
 forest everywhere ; the blackness of such portions of 
 alluvium as rose to sight, the dead, untroubled silence, 
 the even-flowing, rippleless eddyless current, nay, let 
 us call it the African Styx, assisted to convey that 
 impression. Were it not for the white sun, that gave 
 sheen and greenness to the fresh leafage of the forest, 
 the prospect had been cheerless indeed. 
 
 The next morning found us, at dawn, under weigh, 
 with an ample supply of red, or rather purple, hard
 
 A rnHEATENING DANCE. 35 
 
 wood on board ; but a little before 7 a.m. native Imts isss. 
 appeared on the right bank, and on tlie left the land 
 uplifted into a wholesome height, shaded by brig-ht 
 green bananas. When we came opposite the huts, we 
 saw that they bore the signs of newness. The forest 
 was uncleared. We looked to the banana groves, and 
 discovered not a single soul in view. Was there a war ? 
 Or had all the villagers gone a-picnicking into the wild 
 woods ? But the En Avant rushes up the centre of the 
 stream, and as tlie land improves, rising into clay and 
 rock bluffs, 20 and 30 feet above the stream, a peopled 
 village is seen, first on the left, and then on the right 
 bank, and all at once the edges of the river banks are 
 enlivened with yellow-bodied people, afflicted with a 
 ferocious St. Yitus's dance. They leap upward, like sO' 
 many acrobats suddenly afflicted with a terpsichorean 
 mania, flankwise and rearward, then forward with a 
 rush, bows in hand, drawn taut until the arrowheads 
 seem to touch the bow. Those armed with a spear and 
 shield only practise a Pyrrhic dance, and, but for the 
 deep river, we would take it that they were chaiging 
 on us. On the right bank, as well as on the left bank, 
 the people are doing their best to exhibit their know- 
 ledge of war games. It is all very interesting, of 
 course. I have always felt more interest in looking 
 at human nature than in studying other aspects of 
 creation, but just now it is this Black River that I 
 came to see. 
 
 The En Avant goes plunging on at the rate of seven 
 knots an hour. Village after village turns out its
 
 36 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. dancing corps of copper-breasted braves; the right 
 bank, as well as the left banlc, salute us with these 
 exhibitions. There is a mile long stretch of hutted 
 bank, followed by about two miles long of forest ; then 
 a similar village, followed by a similar forest, and over 
 the villages are the bananas, seen to wave softly, with 
 the darker palms nodding in harmony, while the white 
 sun shines steadily over all. At noon we are 0° 6' S. 
 Lat. The day before we were in 0° 4' N. Lat., and in 
 this interval of time we had crossed the Equator twice. 
 
 The Black River, from bank to bank, was 400 yards 
 in width, with a 2^ knot current; the depth, by con- 
 tinuous trial with sounding pole, was unknown. Tiny 
 hills began to appear to relieve the monotony of the 
 level. At about the eightieth mile from the conflu- 
 ence we slackened speed, and tried to open a conver- 
 sation with the people of a pleasant-looking village. A 
 few of the principal men advanced firmly to the edge of 
 the river bank, and one spoke unhesitatingly thus : — 
 
 "We do not know who you are, or whence you 
 came, or whither you go, or what is your intent. If 
 you come near enough to the shore we will begin 
 fighting. If you wish to go on — go. If you wish to 
 return, the river is free, but touch not the land." 
 
 Was there ever such candour, so beautifully and 
 clearly expressed, or was it the guide's way of 
 speaking ? 
 
 We returned the way we came, our departure being 
 accompanied by a shower of sticks, clods, stones, &c., 
 which, however, did not approach within 200 yards of
 
 WANG ATA. 
 
 37 
 
 our steamer. It is probably in this way these equa- isax 
 torial people express their farewell! 
 
 At 8 P.M. we reached the camp we had left in the 
 morniug, and arrived at noon the next day at the 
 
 Wangafa. 
 
 A NATIVE ISSUING TO THE WAK. 
 
 junction of the Mohindu, or Black River, with the 
 Congo. 
 
 At Wangata, seven miles below, commanding a 
 view of the junction of three channels— the right 
 going lip to Bungata, the middle leading to the Ikel- 
 emba and the Lulungu rivers, the left leading to the
 
 38 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. Black River — we halted to converse with the people, 
 
 Juue 13. 
 
 Wangata. ^"^ wcic invitcd to. approach the landing-place. 
 
 Here w^e learned that we were among the Bakuti, a 
 tribe which begins at Ikengo and ends at Baruki, the 
 town at the mouth of tlie Mohindn. On the rio-ht 
 bank are situated the Baicanga ; the large island of 
 Nsambana, nearly twenty-five miles in length, occupies 
 the centre of the Congo, between the two tribes. 
 
 The Bakuti soon made friendshi23 with us after the 
 customary forms of blood brotherhood. Land was 
 shown to us to build upon, then after leaving human 
 pledges for our return, we hastened to Inganda. On 
 the next day we packed up and transported the expedi- 
 tion to Equator Station, which is situated in the 
 neighbourhood of Wangata, at 0° 1' 0" N. lat. 
 
 Lieutenant Yangele was appointed chief of the new 
 station, and twenty-six men were delivered over to 
 him to form its garrison. Lieutenant Coquilhat, with 
 twenty more men, was appointed to assist Lieutenant 
 Yangele until a further reinforcement of men and 
 goods could be conveyed to him from Le'opoldville. 
 
 We halted a few days to assist with our crews the 
 clearing of the bush from the site of the new station, 
 as well as for the settlement of all claims, payments, 
 distribution of gifts to important persons ; and on the 
 20th of June we descended the Congo River on our 
 return to Irebu, where we arrived after seven hours 
 and fortv-five minutes' steaminir.
 
 AN EMBARRASSING FAREWELL. 39 
 
 CHAPTER XXYII. 
 
 FROM THE BLACK RIVER TO STANLEY POOL AND BACK 
 TO EQUATOR STATION. 
 
 An embarrassing farewell — Chili pepper and tears — Success of a hypo- 
 critical stratagem — Sounds of war — Peace-making — Burying the war 
 — The Lukanga river— Mantumba Lake — The "Watwa dwarfs — 
 Eescue of a shipwrecked crew — The Abbe Guyot — The lion and his 
 prey — Leopoldville flourishing — Troubles at Bwa-bwa Njali's — A 
 homicidal officer — Lieutenant Janssen and tlie Abbe Guyot drowned 
 — Troubles at Kimpoko — Troubles at Bolobo— The station burnt— 
 We are fired upon — War — A Kri;pp gun sent for — Weak effects of 
 nnxsketry — Peace restored — Settling the indemnity— Displaying the 
 power of the Krupp — " I and my people will depart from Bolobo 
 for ever!" — The river of Bunga — Lukolela — A magnificent forest — 
 The superstition of luka — Excellent condition of Equator Station — 
 My ideal achieved. 
 
 The love which the people of Inganda bore iis was so iss.s. 
 excessive, that we became conscious on leaving Eqiiatoi' jn^.^nj.,' 
 Station that we were in a difficulty. How could we 
 tell them that the dank forest bight, with its edging of 
 reeds and stagnant spaces around Inganda, was hurtful 
 to the health of Europeans, and that we were com- 
 pelled, on account of sanitary and political considera- 
 tions, to remove from their village to Wangata? This 
 would be a delicate task ! 
 
 When Msenne' — our guide from Mswata — was in-
 
 40 . THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. formed tliat, although it was absolutely necessary for 
 
 Juue 21. . 1 t'ti 1 
 
 inaanJa. T^s to move, stiU, we experienced a dislike to wound 
 the susceptibilities of the Inganda people, he, after a 
 thoughtful pause, said that we had better leave the 
 matter in his hands, and we should have no further 
 trouble. As he was so confident, and as cheery as a 
 lawyer who has a good case, and as he knew the 
 natives better than we did, we agreed to leave it to 
 him entirely. He communicated his ideas to my ser- 
 vant Dualla and to Umari, and it was through them I 
 learned later how he had accomplished it. 
 
 Having obtained permission to carry out his design 
 without interference on my part, unless there were 
 visible signs of failure, he proceeded to put in practice 
 what he designed. He first rolled his long cloth tight 
 around his waist as though it were a cord, and then 
 with a Chili pepper touched his eye?, and, having 
 started the copious tears to roll down his face, he 
 assumed such a woe-begone, down-drooping aspect, 
 that I was afraid Dualla had replied offensively to him. 
 
 No sooner had we arrived at the landing-place of 
 Inganda, than he stepped on shore, deaf to every 
 hail, regardless of everybody, and leaving the boat, he 
 proceeded slowly to an open place on shore, where he 
 stood solitarily conspicuous, while the poor deluded 
 natives gathered ai'ound him, urging him mildly, with 
 hushed voices, to respond to the greetings. 
 
 " Well, Msenne, have you come ? " " What news ? " 
 "What ill has befallen you?" 
 
 These were often repeated to the absent-minded
 
 HYPOCEISY. 41 
 
 Mseiiiie, who was so immersed in his sorrow, that ho isss. 
 was heedless of them, until, at last, in a broken voice ,"°^ , ' 
 
 ' ' ' Ingandii. 
 
 interrupted by sobs and bursts of assumed anger, he 
 condescended to unfold the pitiful tale of woe. 
 
 The story as a story was capitally related ; as a 
 comedy it was surpassingly well done, and proved that 
 in this far away part of Afiica there must have been 
 many a Shakespeare and Milton, who have mutely and 
 ingloriously died unwept, unhonoured and unsung by 
 the ignorant civilised world, and whose humble mounds 
 lie nameless under the tropic shade. 
 
 "Two days from here, up that black river — the — 
 what do ye call it? — there were many villages on the 
 Bakuti side, and a market was held. The wild people 
 invited us in. We ranged the boat alongside the bank. 
 Mangombo's boy, and one of Bula Matari's men and I 
 sprang on shore, and tlien — ah, I never saw such a 
 thing before! — Irebu's boy was caught, the Zanzibari 
 was speared instantly, and I escaped by leaping 
 through the treacherous crowd into the river. The boat 
 had already shoved off at the first alarm, and now, tell 
 me, friends, what must I do? What answer shall I 
 return to Mangombo, of Irebu, when he asks me for his 
 boy? You men of Stanley, why stand ye here ? Let 
 us go. Pack up, and let us go on to the fight, and 
 fight until there is not one of the wretches left alive. 
 Have you people no hearts to feel for your dead 
 friends? How shall we return to Irebu? What, oh, 
 what will Mangombo say to me? Pack up, I tell 
 you ! " and here Msenne actually sobbed aloud.
 
 42 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. Dualla and Umari, who were in the secret, cried out 
 
 June 21. , ^ . . 
 
 inganda. soothicgly " Pcacc, Mscnne'. Cease grieving ; can we 
 fight without food? Let us buy food to-day, and to- 
 morrow we shall go to the war." 
 
 The natives also joined in consolations, and offered 
 to muster all Inganda and Ikengo for the war, and in 
 a little time Msenne hushed his sobs, and finally 
 condescended to smile. 
 
 It was not until we had settled ourselves at TVangata 
 that the story was told of how Msenne had deceived 
 Inganda in such an accomplished manner, by our two 
 young men who had thoroughly relished the per- 
 formance. 
 
 As the boats w^ere being secured to the trees on the 
 margin of the cove of Upper Iiebu, the sounds of 
 a musketry volley came sliarply to our ears. We 
 inquired what this firing meant. 
 
 " Oh, we got tired of waiting for you so w^e began 
 the war again an hour ago." 
 
 After consultation witli Mangombo, I sent Dualla 
 with two boats to Mpika's landing place, and having 
 obtained permission from both the contending factions 
 to stop the war, I then commissioned Dualla and four 
 of tiie crew to proceed to the battle field, bearing the 
 blue flag with the golden star, the standard of tlie 
 Association, high above their heads, that it might be 
 seen l)y the respective ambushed warriors. Guided by 
 Mpika's advice, they boldly penetrated through the 
 hostile ranks, and shouted out to them that the peace 
 palaver was now being held by Bula Matari, and in
 
 WAE. 43 
 
 some stubborn cases they bad actually seized tlie a'uns i883, 
 
 / -^ ^ June 22. 
 
 and struck them up while they were levelling them to inganda. 
 fire on their enemy. We were not long waiting before 
 we saw the warriors of Mangombo returning to their 
 various huts in the town, presenting themselves to our 
 inspection as they passed by us grossly garnished with 
 skins and feathers, and so hideously painted that it was 
 impossible to conceive a more thorough effort for the 
 human form's disfigurement. 
 
 The next day, having heard from each chief his 
 statement of the cause of the war, I spoke to Mpika 
 and Magwala, asking what benefits they expected from 
 this strife. " None," tliey promptly replied. " Iboko 
 killed my people," said Mpika, " and I caught eight of 
 them by a ftiir chase after them ; let Mangombo do the 
 same, for he will never get any of mine." " And I/' 
 said Magwala, " will see that he does not." 
 
 To Mangombo, I asked what he expected to gain by 
 continuing the fight ? 
 
 " Both of your parties are strong and numerous, and 
 if you go on in this manner, mutually destroying one 
 another, Irebu will become the prey of the Bakuti, or 
 the Balui, or the Wabangi. Your friends are also 
 friends of your opponents. Your losses to-day, in- 
 cluding those who fell at Iboko, are thirty-seven killed, 
 and many wounded. You have lost nine stout men in 
 order to get four slaves. You are not wise, Mangombo. 
 This kind of trading will ruin you. Let the council be 
 called, and obey the word, otherwise you must go on 
 fighting it out by yourselves."
 
 44 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883, Accordingly, at two p.m., the principal elders of 
 
 Jnaanda. ^pp©!' Irebu Were gathered together in council in one 
 corner of an open place. I and my three interpreters 
 near me occupied another corner. At another corner 
 Mangomho sat alone with his long staff ending with 
 a brazen spade. 
 
 " The Malafu fee must be paid first," said one of 
 the elders, I had almost forgotten the judge's fee, 
 and I hinted to Msenne and Umari that my fee must 
 be large. 
 
 Fifty brass-rods were distributed among the elders. 
 One hundred and twenty were gravely handed to me 
 as my share. 
 
 Mangombo recited the story of the war, recounting 
 his losses, and drawing pathetic pictures of the losses 
 incurred by Upper Irebu. The elders then suggested 
 their ideas as to what should be done to stay the 
 hostilities, and that it was a great pity that the dis- 
 putants should go on killing one another. 
 
 I followed last, and decided that the war must stop. 
 Said I : " Magwala and Mpika have both agreed that 
 they will leave the case in my hands; you Mangombo 
 must do the same. The war lies in the obstinacy of 
 Mangombo alone. Mpika lost five men, but he kept 
 his eyes open, and revenged himself on the Iboko by 
 taking eight captives. Mangombo sought to redress his 
 losses by making war upon Mpika. If he wanted to 
 pay the Bangala for the blood they had shed, why did 
 he not go to Iboko, and keep his eyes open there, instead 
 of hurting his friend? The Nzarabi (God^ is angry.
 
 PEA CE'MA KING. 45 
 
 and he lias lost nine more of lils men. Say, it is i883. 
 enough. Mpika and Magwala offer their hands in io°ld^ 
 friendship to Mangombo. Give the pledge of peace, 
 and bury the war. Bula Matari has spoken ! " 
 
 The council of elders applauded, and Mangom\)o 
 yielded to the general cry of peace, and gave the pledge 
 demanded. My interpreters were instantly sent away 
 to central Irebu to bring tlie pledges of peace from the 
 Capulets of that quarter. These pledges were two pieces 
 of unbleached domestic, one gourd of palm-wine, one 
 keg of damp gunpowder, and one broken musket from 
 each faction. Then four elders from Upper Irebu who 
 were neutrals, and four neutrals from central Irebu took 
 charge of the peace pledges, and in the centre of the 
 plain behind Irebu, which was the usual battle-field, a 
 hole was dug in the ground, and the articles were 
 interred. Salvoes of musketry from each rank of the 
 combatants were fired over the grave of the war, and 
 Irebu was saved from the horrors of internal strife, for 
 many long years, I hope. 
 
 The next day we spent in mutual visits through 
 Irebu. 
 
 This large town, or congeries of villages, built so 
 close together, that to a stranger there would appear 
 to be no distinctive limits between them, occupies the 
 left bank of the Congo, and the left bank of the 
 Lukanga, running along the bank for a distance of 
 five miles, and having a depth inland of two 
 miles. The population I estimated at 15,000 souls. 
 Irebu has also its suburbs, and if the villages inland
 
 46 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883 and along the Lnkanga may be reckoned, being 
 offshoots of Irebu, the figures of the population may 
 reasonably be doubled. 
 
 On the 23rd, we steamed up the Lukanga River, 
 which we took to be a river, though in reality it was 
 the tail end, or the sluggish effluence of a lake. It 
 appeared more like a broad and winding canal. The 
 shore, for a considerable distance, was a reedy fen, le- 
 lieved in places by a clump of mimosa, or by a grander 
 height of scrub, and finally by an isleted grove. A 
 lew miles up, a humpy rise of reddish clay showed a 
 village with bananas and palms, and gardens of cassava 
 outside. Fishermen were numerous ; canoes being seen 
 returning from or going to the fish-catching. From 
 300 yards the Lukanga opened out to a mile in 
 breadth, which gradually widened further into a little 
 lake. We were then shown a course varying from 
 one to two miles wide, which we followed ; the shores 
 looming up picturesquely in wooded banks which 
 might almost be called hills. The villages were be- 
 coming more numerous. Presently, when half-way 
 through this arm of the lake, we turned into a narrow 
 channel by the village of Maboko, which was still 
 more tiarrowed by rows of stakes, sedge, water-lilies, 
 lotus, papyrus and other reeds. Throe-quarters of an 
 hour later — after winding in and out a crooked watery 
 path — Lake iMantumba burst into view. We steamed 
 along the northern shore — the southern being distant 
 about five miles — until at 4 p.m., when on the south, 
 the shore disappeared. At sunset, we had reached the
 
 MANTUMDA LAKE. 47 
 
 eastern sliore, and camped on an i.^land near Ugangi ; i883. 
 
 •, • •, . .., TiiT .1 June 23. 
 
 whither some natives visited us, and told us ot the Mantumba 
 Watwa being many days inland, from whence they ^"''*'' 
 obtained their ivory and camwood. Ten days' steam- 
 ing into beautiful little bays and creeks, past Ibingi 
 and Ikoko, brought us to near Ikulu at 5 p.m., along 
 the eastern shore, and round by the flat southern 
 shore, to a portion of the western shore. By noon of 
 the 25th we had steamed 144 English miles in tlie 
 circumnavigation of the lake. 
 
 Mantumba Lake, like Lake Leopold IL, is a shallow 
 depression in the lowland of this portion of the Congo 
 basin. The greatest depth ascertained is thirty-two 
 feet. Like the latter, it seems to have been caused by 
 a sudden subsidence of the ironstone substructure, 
 which, at many places, shows the ragged sharp edges 
 of fracture as clearly as though newly made. In other 
 parts again the land rises into low hills, not high 
 enough to attract particular notice, but clothed with 
 fine forests of redwood, for which this country is noted. 
 Where the ironstone crust still shows its ragged front- 
 age to the view, deep cavernous recesses are seen 
 underneath. Over these the stone projects like a shelf 
 of rock, proving its tenacious composition, as it ire- 
 quently supports trees of considerable girth and height. 
 On the western shores, in some of its many baylets, the 
 pebbly beach strewn with round ironstone, and quartz, 
 and reddish, porous, stone pebbles, shows traces of 
 much hitcher water, and effects of storm v waves. 
 Everywhere the shore is lined b}^ these pebbles. Some
 
 48 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. I ground into powder, and put into a glass of water, 
 
 June 23. 
 
 jiantumba ^^^ after Stirring np I found the water to be much 
 darker. This rust and dark red ironstone may account 
 for a httle of the inkiness of the lake, though I 
 cannot conceive it to be altogether the cause. Scarcely 
 any clay or sand was visible on the shore, though 
 I minutely examined every indentation in it. The 
 ground above this rocky substratum is a reddish 
 soil, very rich and favourable to tropical abundance. 
 When the shore is not cultivated the forest is dense, 
 but all of an uniform height. The southern shore is 
 very low and sedgy. As the lake rises about fifteen 
 feet, or, at least, the shores show traces to this height, 
 and, as the distance between Lakes Mantumba and 
 Leopold IL is about twenty -two geographical miles, it 
 may be that at the height of the rainy season these 
 two lakes are connected. 
 
 At Ikenge the natives manufactured a superior kind 
 of pottery. Camwood powder is also extensively 
 made by grinding in mortar, red- wood chips, or rasping 
 small sticks of it on rough slabs. Ivory is purchased 
 from the Watwa dwarfs, who are described as a copper- 
 coloured people. 
 
 On the 20 til of June we halted at the camping-place 
 at Lukolela. luka and Mungawa were induced to 
 visit us — to make blood brotherhood, and finally to 
 frame a verbal treaty, agreeing to cede to us sovereignty 
 over their country. They also sold us a fine piece 
 of land, whereon we proposed to build a station, in 
 surety whereof we left two of our most faithful men
 
 A SHIPWRECK. 49 
 
 in their luinds, and then continued on our voyage i883. 
 
 June 29. 
 
 down the Congo. L^kdeia. 
 
 We were encamped on the grassy terrace mentioned 
 in our journey up river, a few miles below Lukolela, 
 on the evening of this day, when a large canoe ap- 
 peared laden with forty-four men and a miscellaneous 
 cargo. They reported the wreck of a large canoe 
 laden with thirty-eight men, and a valuable cargo. 
 Over a dozen of the crew of the lost canoe were on 
 board ; the rest were still on an island wandering. 
 Two persons had been drowned, and all the property 
 had been lost. The shipwrecked party hailed from 
 Usindi, and the crew of the canoe tliat rendered 
 assistance belonged to Ngombe. They found us in a 
 fit mood and condition to be helpful. We were home- 
 ward bound to Stanley Pool, we had just left Lukolela, 
 and had abundance of provisions, wliich we shared 
 with them. 
 
 At early dawn we were under weigh with three of 
 the shipwrecked crew on board to guide us to the 
 scene of the disaster. At 8.30 a.m. we hauled alongside 
 with our three steamers, whaleboat, and canoe. They 
 pointed the locality and the cause of the accident, 
 which was some thirty yards from shore. It was a stiff 
 snag, slightly covered by water, that ran strongly 
 around it, and was thirty feet in depth. The locality 
 was devoid of anything to which we could cling ; and 
 in attempting to secure a steamer near the place we lost 
 our anchor and chain. I recognised the chief of the 
 party as Miyongo of Usindi, whom we had seen at 
 Vol. II.-4
 
 50 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883 Bolobo during our palavers relating to the murder of 
 Lukoieia. two of our garrison by Gatula. We requested to 
 know what assistance he wished. After consultation 
 with his fellows, he decided to return to Bolobo with his 
 wife and six companions. We supplied the others with 
 food and native arms, which we had purchased from 
 the Bakuti, and they resolved to make their way to 
 Lukoieia by land. We transported them to the main- 
 land, and then proceeded on our journey to Bolobo, 
 which we reached at nine o'clock at night. 
 
 The next day we rendered Miyongo and his wife 
 speechless with gratitude by a present of forty days' 
 rations, when, according to native custom, they had 
 become our property. Departing from Bolobo soon 
 afterwards, we arrived at Mswata station after thirteen 
 hours' steaming. 
 
 During my absence to the equator, Lieutenant 
 Janssen had received a visitor, in the person of the 
 Abbe Guyot, a Roman Catholic missionary serving 
 under the orders of the Algerian Cardinal. The Abbe 
 had come up the Congo highly recommended to the 
 officers of the Association, with the view of establish- 
 ing a mission. Leopoldville being already blessed 
 with the Protestant missions, the Abbe thought it 
 convenient to seek a virgin field. Upon suggesting 
 the Kwa, in the neighbourhood of tlie confluence, he 
 expressed himself pleased with the locality, upon 
 which I requested Lieutenant Janssen to proceed up 
 to the Kwa, and establish himself on the left bank 
 of the confluence, and to assist the Abbe Guyot
 
 KIMPOKO STATION. 51 
 
 in the founding of liis mission on the right l»ank i88;}. 
 
 of the affluent opposite. 
 
 On the 3rd of July, with the wind blowing strongly 
 against us, we left Mswata for Le'opoldville. Just 
 above the Wampoko river, on the right bank, we saw 
 a lion crouched on the sand, watching with curious 
 gaze the descending flotilla. We tried a shot at it and 
 missed it ; and, led by curiosity, we landed at the place 
 to discover that a fierce struggle had occurred sliortly 
 before, leaving traces of some heavy body having been 
 dragged over the beach. The evidences were as legible 
 as a highway, and pointed us to a dead buffalo still 
 warm fifty paces from the river's edge, wdiere it had 
 been struck helpless while drinking. Good fresh beef 
 was too rare on the Upper Congo to be rejected, and all 
 hands that day banqueted on the steaks and roast hump 
 furnished by the forest king. 
 
 Kimpoko station, reached the next day at 10 a.m., 
 was superintended by Mons. Amelot. The place 
 evidently was about to be known as one of our unlucky 
 stations. This was the fourth chief who had been 
 placed in command, and yet the chiefs residence had 
 not been completed, and, by the very slow progress 
 which had been made, probably the columns would 
 need renewing before it would be fit for living in. 
 
 After fifty-seven days' absence we again saw Le'opold- 
 ville, with substantial proofs everywhere visible of 
 the competency of Lieutenant Yalcke as chief. A 
 large house, having nine commodious rooms for the 
 lodging of Europeans, had been put up ; a small station 
 
 July :i. 
 Mswata.
 
 52 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883 had been established at Kinshassa ; some 500 new 
 " ^ ^ ■ banana plants were tbrivino; in our g-arden : and tbe 
 
 Leopold- ■■■ o o 
 
 ^''^^- community and its belongings were altogether in a 
 "blooming" condition. Thus a proper man proved 
 that he could perform more service in two months than 
 his predecessor had performed within eleven months. 
 Ngalyema and his brother chiefs were also on excellent 
 terms with the staft" of Europeans ; tlie store-rooms 
 of the station were filled with provision cases, cloth 
 bales, bead boxes, and there were nearly four tons of 
 brass rods — the native currency. 
 
 On the 13th of July the steamers and boats were 
 again despatched to Bolobo with 150 loads of goods 
 and thirty-two men, in charge of Captain Anderson, 
 in whom I could place implicit reliance. Meantime 
 troubles at Vivi and Manyanga required my atten- 
 tion, and I had to despatch an agent to that place 
 with authority to rectify the mischiefs which ever 
 recurred at that unfortunate station, owing to the 
 utter impossibility of enforcing obedience to orders 
 by letter. 
 
 " Captain " had, after six months' patient endea- 
 vour to reach his post, finally arrived to take command. 
 At least this was to be hoped, but later letters informed 
 us that he declined the command, owing to a species of 
 triangular disagreement and misunderstanding existing 
 at Vivi, in connection with which each of the three 
 persons involved showered letters in most forcible 
 language upon me. In this predicament it was 
 necessary to commission a deputy, with copies of the
 
 BWA-BWA NJALI'S INVITATION. 
 
 53 
 
 various orders that had emanated from me duriiic: the i883. 
 
 T . ... 
 
 last six months; and I consider that the immense Leopold- 
 bother on this occasion drew from me a final order, '^''*' 
 which was an absolute model of its kind, from the great 
 number of propositional " ifs " it contained, providing, 
 I flattered myself, against all mortal possibilities of 
 misunderstanding, misapj^rehension, and failure. Not 
 
 -^srr 
 
 VIEW FROM THE HEAD OF BAM0 ISLAND DOWN THE SOTTTH BKANCH AT 
 STANLEY POOL. 
 
 havino* a sino'le soul else within reach that I could 
 trust, I was obliged to deprive Leopoldville of its chief, 
 so that Lieutenant Yalcke was the chosen deputy, 
 while Dr. Yan den Heuvel was ap])ointed chief of 
 Le'opoldville pro tern. 
 
 Invited by Bwa-bwa Njali, of the Gordon-Bennett 
 River, to establish a station there, I proposed to a
 
 54 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. young continental officer to undertake the duty. He 
 Leopold- readily acquiesced, expressing- himself indeed as ex- 
 tremely desirous to have his fidelity and capacity tested 
 previous to promotion, and the public recognition of 
 his zeal and intelligence. He and his band of fourteen 
 picked men were transported across the river, and duly 
 introduced to the chief, who consented to receive him 
 as his brother. The young officer received his final 
 instructions with a strong injunction to be prudent, 
 good tempered, and forbearing, and always charitable 
 in his dealings with the aborigines as w^ell as with 
 his own people. 
 
 Eight days passed away, and then from across the 
 river came a rumour of trouble. A boat was hastily 
 manned and sent to inquire for news, which, in a few 
 hours, returned with the young officer, pale and excited, 
 with his face scratched and his clothes in disorder, and 
 two of his own garrison with him. The coxswain of 
 the boat reported that he had gone across the river, 
 and had found the military officer bound hand and 
 foot. 
 
 Two of his own men guarded him, and they told 
 the coxswain a curious tale. He had, however, on his 
 own responsibility set the officer at liberty, and had 
 brought him, along with his men, to Leopoldville to 
 answer for themselves. 
 
 The officer related how he had detected a plot to 
 murder him and take the property, upon which he had 
 attempted to shoot the supposed ringleader in the con- 
 spiracy, but had only succeeded in wounding him,
 
 A TERRIBLE DISASTER. 55 
 
 whereupon liis own men sprang upon liim, disarmed isss. 
 and bound him, and were about conveying him to u^opoid- 
 
 ville 
 
 Leopoldville when the boat fortunately arrived to take 
 them across. He admitted he liad been set free irom 
 his bonds by the coxswain. 
 
 The two men who had been found guarding him, in 
 their direct and circumstantial story, proved that their 
 oflScer had suddenly developed an homicidal mania. 
 He had attempted to shoot poor Bwa-bwa Njali, and 
 had actually shot his chief sergeant in the head, which 
 provoked his own garrison to disarm and bind him. 
 During the night following he had burst his bonds and 
 fled into the woods, where he had been discovered next 
 morning. Being recaptured, and rebound, he was 
 conveyed to the river side, whither soon after the 
 boat arrived, and its crew, taking charge of the prisoner 
 and his guard, brought them to Leopoldville. 
 
 My servant Dualla was sent over to Bwa-bwa Njali's, 
 to transport the party back again to Le'opoldville. 
 On the return of Dualla, corroborating the truth of 
 the charge against the officer, the unfortunate gentle- 
 man was taken under escort to Yivi with an order of 
 dismissal from the service. 
 
 On the 22nd of July, a courier canoe arrived from 
 Mswata station with the dreadful intelligence that 
 Lieutenant Janssen and the Abbe Guvot, with eleven 
 of their people, while descending the Congo from the 
 new Kwamouth station 1o Mswata, during a gale of 
 wind, were drowned. 
 
 On the 31st of July an exjiedition was sent to
 
 viUe. 
 
 56 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. occupy Kwamoutli station. It consisted of Lieutenant 
 Leopold- Pfigels, a Swedish officer, and a small garrison for that 
 place. 
 
 Two days later a courier canoe arrived from Kim- 
 poko station, with letters from Mons. Amelot, imploring 
 instant relief. He had had a misunderstanding with 
 the natives, and some shooting had happened, wherein 
 two or tliree of the natives had fallen. 
 
 Naturally, I hurried to Kimpoko, and found that 
 Gambiele and all the natives had fled, and my presenti- 
 ment concerning unfortunate Kimpoko was verified. 
 Unable to induce the natives to return, I ordered the 
 half- 1 milt station- to be destroyed, and conveyed the 
 garrison down to Leopoldville. 
 
 The prospects were most disheartening ; eternal and 
 ever-brewing troubles at Vivi ; two stations destroyed 
 within a few days of each other ; two Europeans and 
 eleven coloured men belonging to another station 
 drowned ! But the end had not yet arrived. 
 
 On the 21st of August, a courier canoe arrived from 
 Bolobo with a note saying that unfortunate Bolobo — 
 never to be built Bolobo — was burnt to the ground 
 with all tlie goods belonging to it, as well as the 150 
 loads recently stored there for the Upper Congo stations 
 Ban gala and Stanley Falls. 
 
 Fortunately tlie flotilla, which had been beached for 
 repairs, was now in perlect order for a long voyage, 
 and I was only waiting for an overland caravan, of the 
 near approach of whicli we had notice, to have started. 
 The danger to these houseless people at Bolobo, how-
 
 BOLOBO IN ARMS. ^rr 
 
 ever, spurred us to immediate movement, and on the issa. 
 22nd of August we accordingly departed from Le'opold- ""^Xho ' 
 ville, witli ten tons of miscellaneous goods, and a crew 
 and passenger list numbering fifty men. After fifty- 
 seven hours' steaming we arrived in view of Bolobo on 
 the 29th August. The En Avant being a few miles 
 ahead of the Royal and A.I. A. 
 
 As the En Avant steamed by tlie shore I observed 
 the usual crowds of spectators darkening it. Mungolo, 
 Ibaka's favourite village, poured out its bronze-bodied 
 people great and small. Next Biangala, perched on the 
 slope of the hill which separated the Lower from the 
 Upper Bolobo. Next in order appeared the villages 
 of Ururu, Mongo, Manga, Yambula, and Lingenji, and, 
 finally, without a single incident, we arrived at the 
 landing-place of the ruined station, the blackened site 
 of which we saw looked desolate enough. 
 
 I told the engineer to keep steam at three atmo- 
 spheres until the other steamers had actually arrived, 
 and I was listening to the reports of the burning of 
 the station, when a messenger came from Ibaka, the 
 senior chief, saying that Itimba and Biangala had fired 
 on the two steamers. The news was so astonishing 
 that I could scarcely credit tne fact ; for in the Roi/al 
 were three natives of Bolobo, who had borne to me the 
 news of the destruction by fire of the station, and had 
 been brought back by us. I had also passed by the 
 shore, and the people had waved their hands and greeted 
 us at several places, while the chief of the station had 
 reported that he was on terms of friendly intimacy with
 
 S8 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. every one at Bolobo. No whisper of ill-feeling had 
 
 August 29. . 
 
 Bolobo. been heard from any one. To emphasise this apparent 
 friendship, Manga's chief had exchanged presents with 
 the station superintendent that morning. Upiti, the 
 chief of Itaraba, was cracked np to be " a dear friend — 
 in fact, one of the best fellows in the world." 
 
 Full of wonder at this sudden outbreak, we made 
 steam again, and proceeded down the river to discover 
 the truth. Five hundred yards below the station 
 landing-place we were passing by Manga's village, and 
 I had barely time to distinguish my protege, Miyongo, 
 of Usiudi, by the broad-beaded and glittering haft of his 
 falchion, when a stream of fire was seen issuing from the 
 bushes near him, and the slugs came peltering briskly 
 across, some ringing smartly on the steel hull of the 
 steamer. Presently another shot rang out loudly a few 
 yards below, the missile of which swept over the bow. 
 
 It appeared to dawn on my mind that all this wa« a 
 pre-concerted arrangement. For a moment, I fear that 
 I did not wholly exempt my own station chief from 
 some participation in the outbreak. He might have 
 tampered with these savages from some sinister design 
 of his own, because he had called them his dear friends, 
 and, if dear friends of his, why not dear friends of ours ? 
 Absurd as the thought undoubtedly was, we had no 
 time to discuss it, for the En Avant was in a dangerous 
 proximity to these ambushed people, and the muskets 
 roared at us from a long line of sharpshooters hidden 
 only about fifty yards from us. We had only six men 
 aboard, and our rifles had never been used. Arms were
 
 FIGHTING ON THE RIVER. 59 
 
 taken on board always as a precaution; but during the issa. 
 
 ^ f, . ■, . August 29. 
 
 four years we had run on the ( ongo not a single native Boiobo. 
 had fired at us. However, we soon drew them out and 
 began to return tlie fire vigorously into the bushes, 
 while we charged down river to the rescue of the 
 steamers. In twenty minutes we met the A.I.A.^ and 
 soon after the Boyal, the crews of which related the 
 narrow escapes they had experienced. One man only 
 had been wounded in the face by a shot from some 
 excited bungler amongst the crew. 
 
 The steamers were brought up to the station, and 
 the goods then discharged into a small hut that had 
 been hastily constructed and placed under guard. 
 
 The Royal was then dispatched to Leopoldville to 
 bring up an artillery officer with a Krupp cannon, and 
 some fifty charges of ammunition, with which I hoped 
 by a little fright to make the intractable people of 
 Boiobo less disposed to include us in their future dis- 
 plays of spleen. 
 
 The reader will have perceived by this that Boiobo 
 had become noted in our books as an unlucky station. It 
 had been established nearly a year at this time, yet it 
 was in a more backward condition than any other. 
 Two members of its garrison had been foully mur- 
 dered; a fire then utterly consumed the station and 
 village with £1500 worth of property; and now we 
 had what the natives called " a war." All the towns of 
 Boiobo v/ere arrayed against us, except Mungolo and 
 Lingenji, the villages of Ibaka. 
 
 After waiting forr days, during which no one seemed
 
 Bolobo. 
 
 60 THE CONGO. 
 
 188^. disposed to come to terras, or to offer to effect a recon- 
 ciliation, the En Avant and whale-boat descended the 
 river to reconnoitre, and to endeavour to parley with 
 some of our friends in the villages, but a most mur- 
 derous fusilade greeted us as we came near Mariga's 
 and Yambula's villages. This roused our ire again, 
 and we replied at random into the bush, as no person 
 could be seen. 
 
 On the 3rd of September a few of our party occu- 
 pied an island running parallel with the hostile villages, 
 from which our sharpshooters replied briskly at every 
 locality whence the shots issued. 
 
 In the evening, Miyorgo appeared and related the 
 effects of the firing. A woman, the mother of the 
 young rogue who had first fired at us from Manga's, 
 had lost her front teeth by a bullet. A man had his 
 love-knot of hair scraped clean away. Seventeen pots 
 full of native beer had been smashed ; some houses per- 
 forated, and three or four bananas cut down. At 
 Itimba the firing from the En Avant had been more 
 effective, two men were killed and three wounded, 
 besides one goat and one cliicken killed. The Wy- 
 yanzi are too fond of trade not to include everything 
 in their tale of losses. The smashing of a few more 
 pots of beer, by which their courage is inspired, would 
 produce a depression whence peaceful results might 
 be expected. 
 
 The following day, Ibaka introduced a peace deputa- 
 tion from Itimba, which brought with it a few dozens of 
 brass rods, a goat, and some fowls. Surely a war was
 
 NEGOTIATIONS FOR PEACE. 61 
 
 not worth mucli at Bolobo when they estimated the i883. 
 indemnity at such a trifle. However, we accepted it, uoiobo. 
 and old Upiti and his brother ambassadors were 
 delighted, and promised to be very good in future. 
 
 In the afternoon we proceeded again to the island 
 opposite Manga's, and kept up a desultory firing at the 
 white cloudlets emitted from the black bush, and in the 
 evening Miyongo bore to me the bulletin of results. 
 The tale of losses included a chief wounded in the 
 leg while drinking beer in the woods with his brotlier 
 chiefs, one man wounded in both thighs, one in the 
 arms, a gun smashed by a bullet, a canoe damaged, and 
 a few more bananas levelled. 
 
 The wounding of a chief brought Manga to propose 
 terms of peace, but as this was a second offence I was 
 severe. They offered the same money paid by Itimba. 
 It was rejected with scorn, and they were told that, as 
 they considered it a pleasure to fight, and a hardship 
 to pay for the privilege of firing at people, we must try 
 our hands at it again next day, and every day until 
 the big gun arrived from Stanley Pool, when they would 
 all be blown up to the sky. This awful threat made 
 them surrender the case to Ibaka's hands, but with all 
 Ibaka's real and earnest efforts it cost us nine days' 
 negotiations to induce them to pay the fine of 600 
 matako, value £15, as an indemnity. 
 
 On the 13th the peace was duly proclaimed through- 
 out Bolobo, and the next day the Krupp, which had 
 arrived during the last days of the peace negotiations, 
 had to be fired into the Congo, which, opposite Bolobo,
 
 62 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. is 4000 yards wide. All the villages were represented 
 Boiobo. on the occasion by the chiefs in person, accompanied 
 by a few hundreds of people, who honour me without 
 many w^eapons. 
 
 To them there was not much likeness of a gun 
 about the Krupp. " If it were a gun, where was the 
 trigger, stock, ramrod? And what, in the name of 
 goodness, were the wheels for ? " 
 
 " Tut," they said ; " Bula Matari is joking. It can- 
 not be a gun ; it bears no resemblance to a gun. It 
 looks like a fine piece of wood with a deep hole in its 
 belly." 
 
 It was, therefore, decidedly necessary to fire the 
 Krupp. They were turbulent through their unsophis- 
 ticated wildaess. They knew no better. A brass rod 
 causes a Avar ; a drop too much of beer ends in a war. 
 If they have a bad dream, some unfortunate is accused, 
 and burnt for witchcraft, or hung for being an accessory 
 to it. A chief dies from illness, and from two to fifty 
 people are butchered over his grave. When the chief 
 of Moye' — the next village above our station — died, 
 forty-five people were slaughtered, and only a short 
 time before Ibaka strangled a lovely young girl because 
 her lover had sickened and died. Two slaves of Ibaka 
 quarrelled over their beer, and one shot the other; the 
 brother of the murdered man demanded twelve slaves, 
 two bales of cloth, and 1500 brass rods ; one of the male 
 slaves was beheaded, and a female slave was strangled, 
 that their spirits might accompany the spirit of the 
 dead slave on its dreary journey to the unknown
 
 THE KRUPF SURPRISES THE NATIVES. 63 
 
 universe. That we had not been more involved in i883. 
 
 Sept. 14. 
 
 trouble with such people as these of Bolobo has been uoiobo. 
 solely due to our anxious care and large forbearance. 
 
 Notwithstanding their professions of incredulity as 
 to its power, it was observed that the chiefs took great 
 care to keep at a respectful distance from the Krupp, 
 and, when finally the artillerist, after sighting the piece 
 to 2000 yards, fired it, and the cannon spasmodically 
 recoiled, their bodies also instantaneously developed a 
 convulsive movement, after which they sat stupidly 
 gazing at one another. A second shot was fired to 
 3000 yards, and the appearance of the column of water 
 heaved by it, satisfied the most sceptical that the 
 implement was a gun of immense power. 
 
 But the following little episode will well illustrate 
 the character of the Wy-yanzi. After the peaceful 
 exhibition of the powers of the Krupp, I seized the 
 occasion to explain to them how very foolish they were 
 to fight their friends. No white man had yet injured 
 any of them. We had settled at Bolobo only at the 
 solicitation of Ibaka, and all the chiefs had tasted of 
 the white man's liberality. I now would pay for the 
 beer to celebrate a long peace, and I according delivered 
 to each man one piece of cloth and ten brass rods, which, 
 as there were fifteen chiefs and elders, amounted to 
 more than the fine exacted from Lower Bolobo for 
 shooting without provocation at our steamers. 
 
 They left the goods on the ground, and went 
 aside to consider or hold a palaver, and after all had 
 arrived at an agreement they came back to their seats,
 
 64 THE CONOO. 
 
 1883. aud Lu^"umbila, the senior slave of Ibaka, with an 
 
 Sept. 14. ^ ^ p 
 
 Boiobo. unabashed face, dared to say to me : 
 
 " Bula Matari, we have been considering together, 
 and we are all of one mind that you ought to give each 
 of us two pieces of cloth and twenty brass rods to cele- 
 brate this peace, value £25." 
 
 Without a word, but feeling unutterable things, 
 I ordered my servant Dual la to take the presents 
 back, and, waving my hand to them, I said : " It is 
 enough. Ibaka, this land is yours. Take it ; I and 
 my people will depart from Boiobo for ever. I am 
 tired of you." 
 
 Up sprang the chiefs instantly to their feet, while 
 Ibaka hastily ai'rested Dualla's movement, crying out, 
 " No, no, no. Stop, Bula Matari ! Dualla, stay ! Nay, 
 be not angry with us ; this is but a custom of the 
 Wy-3^anzi. If you had given us 4000 brass rods we 
 should have asked for 10,000 ; if you had given us 
 50,000 we should have asked for ten times the amount. 
 What, Bula Matari leave us ? No, never ! Give us the 
 moneys, and we will g'o to celebrate the peace. Come, 
 Bula Matari, drive away your anger," and Ibaka came 
 and patted and rapped gently over my watch-pocket, 
 as though my disgust and silent fury was stowed some- 
 where in that region. " And," continued Ibaka smiling 
 humorously, " does not Bula Matari know the Wy-yanzi 
 yet? Why, the greed of the Wy-yanzi is as insatiable 
 as the appetite of the hippopotamus. The trouble is 
 ended, Bula Matari. Wy-yanzi love money too well 
 to risk fighting any more. Two troubles have cost
 
 SETTLING THE INDEMNITY. 05 
 
 them money ; they will not care to provoke a third, isss. 
 So live in peace, and let your heart rest," Boiobo 
 
 Being a guileless, liberal, and susceptible creature, 
 I accepted Ibaka's hand, and then all departed to diink 
 beer, with the strong purpose to live hereafter in peace 
 with the white man and his people. The Wy-yanzi 
 are not a vindictive people, why should I have been ? 
 
 On the 16tli of September we departed from Boiobo, 
 and ascended along the right bank on this journey to 
 Lukolela. Miyongo, of Usindi, and his shipwrecked 
 crew, who had been extremely serviceable to us in the 
 negotiations with the aborigines of Lower Boiobo, 
 accompanied us. 
 
 Two hours later we passed the Mikene' river. A 
 guide told us that it continued to be navigable for a 
 about a day's journey up by canoe to the junction of 
 two rivers, each of which was impassable on account 
 of rapids. 
 
 Skirting the shore above the Mikene, we discovered 
 that the firm land was generally a mile inland from 
 the tangle of calamus and bush, weeds and papyrus, 
 which rose in impenetrable masses in line along the 
 river margin. The islets, principally low, were innu- 
 merable, and produced but reedy plants and scrub. 
 When we had proceeded about a third of the distance 
 from Lukolela the land improved in appearance, show- 
 ing a tall forest and a limited grassy terrace or two, 
 in appearance very like the left bank. 
 
 About 60 English miles above the point opposite 
 Boiobo we passed the Ikubn, or Likuba stream; and 
 Vol. II,— 5
 
 66 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. about 20 miles higher we saw a fine river, called by 
 Boiobo.' t^® guide the River of Bunga, about which he was 
 very enthusiastic, describing its banks as being very 
 populous, and the tribes as possessing an abundance of 
 ivory and food. The people of Busaka, Ikuba, and 
 Bunga, villages near the Congo, exploit this river in 
 their search for ivory. 
 
 On the 22nd of September we arrived at Lukolela, 
 where Mr. Glave, a young Englishman, was installed 
 as chief of the new station, with a garrison of twenty- 
 five men. 
 
 Lukolela station was located about 2i miles above 
 the uppermost village of the native community, in the 
 forest, a hundred yards from the edge of the Congo. 
 As the tall trees, ranging from 60 to 150 feet high, 
 with clean, branchless stems for three-quarters of their 
 gross height, were only from 10 to 30 feet apart, young 
 Mr. Glave had a difScult work before him. We, there- 
 fore, placed the entire force at his disposal for a couple 
 of days, to cut down the thin undergrowth and to 
 clear some 50 square yards, so as to obtain room to 
 construct a couple of native huts which we purchased 
 for him as a temporary residence and magazine. 
 
 A little exploration I made through this forest, which 
 is scarcely more difficult to penetrate than the Thier- 
 garten of Berlin, enabled me to estimate the number 
 of useful trees in the forest of Lukolela at 460,000, 
 which, allowing only 40 cubic feet to the tree, would 
 furnish over 18,000,000 cubic feet of timber. The 
 plane-trees are numerous ; they would furnish easily
 
 A MAGNIFICENT FOREST. 67 
 
 workable planks for flat-boats, wooden steamers, tables, isss. 
 doors, flooring, rafters, window frames, &c. ; while of il'koieia 
 the splendid teak might be formed keels, stem and 
 stern-posts, decking, and the mahogany, red-wood, ai\d 
 guaiacum for furniture. A steam saw-mill might enable 
 us to furnish all the timber needed for trading houses 
 for generations out of this one forest. Though the 
 timber is not scant in other parts of the Congo 
 banks, it is the only part from the sea to Lukolela that 
 a forest was found wherein there were so few useless 
 trees. 
 
 This magnificent crop of largest forest trees led us to 
 suppose that this ground was extremely rich, but while 
 planting the posts of Mr. Glave's huts, even the picks 
 could make but little impression on the conglomerate of 
 iron we found it to be. The trees had seemingly 
 grown in hollow cavities in the ironstone filled with 
 alluvium, and most of them were of vast girths and 
 buttresses, the base expanding to an enormous circle 
 with their roots. The major number tapered upward 
 to an incredible height, with stems as smooth as a 
 planed pine spar. Whatever the station may turn out 
 to be, it is evident that months must elapse befo-re its 
 chief will be able to boast of a garden. Our young- 
 officer started on his work, not a whit daunted by the 
 magnitude of the task before him. 
 
 We departed from Lukolela on the 25th of September. 
 Miyongo and his family were on familiar terms with us 
 by this time, and when the rain threatened to iiiterrupt 
 our voyage with its usual black storm-clouds, one of
 
 68 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. his men stood up and dared to brave the elements, and 
 Lukoieia. to compel them by his powerful cliarms to go and visit 
 other countries. Upon which Miyongo observed that 
 white men seemingly possessed all things save one, 
 viz., a rain-charm to keep the rain away while 
 travelling. 
 
 The next day we landed him and his family at 
 Usindi, but in the faces of the hundreds who hurried 
 forward to satisfy their curiosity I perceived no joy or 
 gratitude for the service we had rendered. Had a 
 European Prince been saved from such a distressful 
 position as the one Miyongo had been extricated from, 
 no doubt we should have been dined and toasted ; 
 but then this was Usindi, in Congoese Africa. 
 
 During our stay here we went through the ceremony 
 of blood-brotherhood with Miyongo, which provoked 
 the jealousy of luka. luka was also inclined to be 
 surly because I had not delivered Miyongo into his 
 hands, that he, as the senior chief of Usindi, might 
 have had the honour of presenting him in turn to 
 Miyongo's villagers. This occasioned a rhetorical 
 artifice from me, which, by applying the case of 
 Miyongo to luka himself, the old chief became con- 
 vinced that he had no reasonable cause of offence. 
 " Is Miyongo a slave of luka ? Do his wives or his 
 slaves belong to luka? Is not Miyongo a free man 
 and a chief? How can luka claim authority over 
 Miyongo? If luka was saved from the Balui pirates, 
 or from the river, could Miyongo be displeased that 
 luka was not delivered into his hands? No; neither
 
 THE SUPERSTITIONS OF lUKA. 69 
 
 must Iiika be displeased that Miyoiigo, being a free i883. 
 man, could travel freelv in his own country." n • r 
 
 luka was a dirty old man, who was wickedly mean 
 without being aware of it. Two liours after sunset he 
 came to me in my cabin on the steamer, and gravely 
 begged for a looking-glass with wfiich he might dis- 
 cover all hostile designs against him. He then asked for 
 a charm by which he could stop the rain from falling 
 on the gardens and fields of the people he disliked ; 
 and was anxious for a medicine with which he could 
 positively secure the fidelity of his queen ! luka 
 dreaded Miyongo evidently after the exhibition of his 
 jealousy to him, and, after finding that I had no 
 charms to give him to prevent the evil effects of it, he 
 earnestly implored me to take himself and his com- 
 munity away to colonise some other part on the river. 
 
 On departing the next day from Usindi, Miyongo 
 gave me a guide, who was reputed to have advanced 
 higher up river than any man in the trading com- 
 munity of Usindi. He had belonged originally to 
 Upoto, and had since often traded with Langa-Langa 
 and I boko. 
 
 "We had been delayed too long at Bolobo to halt at 
 Irebu for more than ' a few hours. About ten miles 
 above Irebu we saw a few canoes belonging to the 
 piratical Balui, who inhabit a district on the right 
 bank, access to wiiich is gained by means of numerous 
 narrow branches of a delta of a river, bearing no other 
 name than that of the tribe. Inland, a few miles from 
 the Congo the Balni's River is said to be of considerable
 
 70 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. size and importance, perhaps between 300 and 400 
 
 irebu.' yards wide. The Balui are a very daring people from 
 
 all accounts, and their numerous piratical exploits have 
 
 won for them great notoriety in that section of the 
 
 Congo lying between Ngombe and Ikengo. 
 
 On the 29th of September the steam flotilla arrived 
 ofif Equator Station, from which we had been absent 
 one hundred days. 
 
 A NATIVE OF IBOKO. 
 
 No better illustration could be desired to exhibit the 
 effect of industry inspired by good-will and zeal than 
 Equator Station, as it was seen by us after this com- 
 paratively short absence. We had left it a jungle of 
 worthless scrub ; we returned to find an Equatorial 
 hotel — commodious, comfortable, rain-proof, bullet- 
 proof, burglar-proof, and almost fire-proof. In the 
 domestic adornments and fittings, one might have 
 imagined a lady had lent her skilful taste in the- 
 arrangement. The two young army lieutenants, after 
 building the solid clay-house, had turned their attention
 
 Sept. 29. 
 
 Equator 
 Station. 
 
 EQUATOR STATION. 71 
 
 to making window-frames, doors, tables, chairs, and i883. 
 stools, but, having no paint, blue and crimson baize, a 
 few yards of gay print and white sheeting, had given 
 a look of finish to the door, windows, and furniture ; 
 and, with native matting, the hotel presented a very 
 complete and neat appearance without and within. 
 An observatory, or petite casino, stood perched above 
 an ant-bill, devoted to meditation, or to fond contem- 
 plation of their handiwork and industrious efforts. It 
 was here they drew up their code of laws for the 
 moral government of Equator Station, and the amelio- 
 ration of the wild Bakuti, and here also they discussed 
 on Sundays and rainy days plans for the sanitary im- 
 provement of their little town, and, like a Board of 
 Public Works^ sketched out what further duties lay 
 before them. 
 
 Imitating their j^oung chiefs, the coloured men had 
 also developed singularly good faculties. Each of them 
 had built for himself an impregnable clay hut, in 
 the centre of a garden, wherein the Indian corn was 
 already over six feet high ; the sugar-cane was tall and 
 thriving ; plats of sweet potatoes carpeted with their 
 leaves; while pumpkins, brinjalls, cucumbers, &c., &c., 
 exhibited prodigious vitality. 
 
 Lieutenants Yangele and Coquilhat also possessed a 
 garden of European vegetables, which supplied onions, 
 raddish, carrots, beans, peas, parsley, lettuce, cress, 
 beets, sweet potatoes, cabbage, &c., &c., for their soups 
 and salads daily. There were also a large kitchen, 
 servants' hall, goat park, and fowl-houses. Their
 
 72 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. goats ^ave them fresh milk, aud their hens produced 
 
 Sept. 29. *: . 
 
 Equator ^ SUpplj ot eggS. 
 
 Tims for the first time I saw the realisation of my 
 favourite ideal of a Congo station. Here was a well- 
 governed community of soldier-labourers, impregnable 
 and unassailable by its discipline, and the mutual de- 
 pendence of one upon another ; the chiefs cool-headed, 
 zealous, and prudent, but not too militarily stiff to 
 chill the advances of the aborigines. They possessed 
 sufiicient honhommie to be appreciated for their cordi- 
 ality, yet just distant enough to repress vulgar fami- 
 liarity and prevent infraction of the social distinctions 
 that must ever exist between educated intelligence, 
 governed by Christian morality, and unsophisticated 
 barbarism, too light-minded even to become the slaves 
 to savage passion, or the partisans in iactious strife 
 among the natives. 
 
 Ikenge, the chief, a young bull-necked savage, had 
 caused trouble through a determined misapprehension 
 of the purpose of this station in his neighbourhood. 
 After my departure he had developed an over-weening 
 ambition, a desire to be hurriedly rich, by slaughtering' 
 every man to whom he bore ill-will and seizing his 
 possessions. He had conceived that our friendship 
 meant an alliance offensive and defensive, which might 
 have carried us, by his vaulting spirit and daring 
 schemes, to unlimited aggression. He had provoked 
 two wars, out of which he had emerged weakened in 
 strength, and well hated by bis neighbours for his 
 p-rowing insolence. He had grown rather dishonest
 
 Station. 
 
 MT IDEAL STATION. 73 
 
 also, for he bad repudiated certain purchases of trees isss. 
 and bananas that were in the Httle territory ceded to E^'^ator 
 us by him. 
 
 However, through Heliwa his chief slave, who had 
 visited Leopoldville with us, and had been brought 
 back enriched by his voyage, and with his memory 
 weighted with things he had seen, and on which he 
 could moralise, every question was settled in a few 
 days. Thus over the populations of Buriki. lyambo, 
 Wangata, Molira, Mukuli, Ikengo and Inganda and the 
 garrison of Equator Station, an Arcadian harmony and 
 concord held its sway. 
 
 On the 11th of October, I indited the following in 
 my diary : — 
 
 " Equator Station is certainly a happy one, not so 
 situated with regard to view as it might be; but with 
 that sole exception, many other requisites necessary for 
 well-being are in perfection. We have abundance of 
 food^ obtained very cheaply, and the prices are now so 
 established to every one's content, that there is nothing 
 left to complain of We have apparently friendly and 
 devoted neighbours. Brinjalls, bananas, plantains, sweet 
 cassava, potatoes, yams, Indian-corn, eggs, poultry, goats, 
 sheep, the native productions assisted by vegetables of 
 Europe, flourishing in the gardens, with tea, coffee, 
 sugar, butter, lard, rice, and wheat-flour from Europe, 
 afford a sufficient variety for a sumptuous menu. I 
 have enjoyed puddings every day here, and among 
 other accomplishments of Lieutenants Yangele and 
 Coquilhat, not the least useful is that of knowing
 
 74 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. how to cook, and how food should be prepared. 
 
 October 11. i r^ • i • i 
 
 Equator ^^^ havc sumcient acreage near the station to be 
 able, if necessary, to feed everybody abundantly. The 
 climate is healthy also, though they have sucli moist 
 weathers here, and the ground is so astonishingly rich 
 that one would have thought that fever would be 
 prevalent, yet our officers iiave been already four 
 months at Wangata without experiencing one hour's 
 indisposition."
 
 FOUNDING STATIONS. 75 
 
 CHAPTER XXYITl. 
 
 TO THE ARUW [MI OR BIYERRE. 
 
 Equipping .or a long voyage— The Lulungu river — Bolombo— Bangala 
 the terrible— Stirring memories— Boleko the chief—" Stop thief!" — 
 Mata Bwyki— A modern Hercules—" Is this Tandelay ? "—Uncom- 
 fortable moments— The appeal of Yumbila— " Bula Matari and Mata 
 Bwyki are one to-day ! " — Luxuriant tropical scenes — Immense forest 
 wealth — Unsheltered in a storm— Deserted districts— Nganza — Old 
 Eubunga — Langa-Langa women — The currency changing — Ndobo 
 — Oyster-shells a sign of former population — Bumba and the chief 
 Myombi — The dreaded Ibanza— A trick with a tiger's skin— Yam- 
 binga— Itimbiri river— Yalulima armourers— Hostile natives — War 
 canoes on the look out— The Aruwimi— Mokulu— An effective salu- 
 tation — " Bravo, Yumbila ! " 
 
 Our work of founding stations, many of which, if the iggs. 
 
 . , . . October 12. 
 
 future were favourable to our designs, would grow into £^^3^^,^ 
 cities, had carried us well towards the heart of Africa, 
 for Equator Station was 757 English miles from the 
 sea, and 412 miles above Le'opoldville. In response to 
 earnest wishes from Brussels, I was now about to steam 
 up the Congo some GOO miles further, to found a settle- 
 ment at Stanley Falls, and endeavour to make verbal 
 treaties with the more populous settlements on either 
 bank as I voyaged upward, leaving to a future occasion 
 the permanent establishment of stations. The Committee
 
 76 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. had also nominated a person fur the command at Stanley 
 
 October 12. 
 
 Equator Falls *, thus our poor young friend Lieutenant Coquil- 
 hat, after bravely working at Equator station awaiting 
 his opportunity to be located at Bangala station, now 
 saw himself, to his great disappointment, obliged to 
 wait until I could return from the Falls. 
 
 We had prepared for this long voyage 1600 lbs. of 
 corn and cassava flour, and had purchased 500 dried 
 fish from the Bakuti. Our live stock consisted of three 
 goats, three sheep, and thirty fowls, which were of 
 course for the five Europeans on board, as well as a large 
 store of plantains, ripe bananas, yams, sweet potatoes, 
 and a dozen cases of Crosse and Blackwell's best tinned 
 provisions. A full case of Cognac was distributed 
 among four whites ; besides a five-gallon demijohn of 
 red Portuguese wine. In fact, limited as was the 
 carrying capacity of the steamers, the five Europeans 
 and sixty-eight coloured men on board were as well 
 victualled and equipped at Equator station as a 
 British division of soldiers might be at Chatham, Wool- 
 wich, or Portsmouth. 
 
 On the 16th of October the flotilla started up the 
 channel leading to Uranga and the Lulungu River. 
 We steamed ten hours. It was fine when we departed 
 from the Equator ; but at two o'clock the sky became 
 overcast, and thunder rolled, but finally the atmosphere 
 cleared again without rain. At noon we were in 
 N. Lat. 0° 9'. As we ascended nearly due north, our 
 night's camp was probably in N. Lat. 0° 18'. 
 
 Following the Uranga channel, we came to the main
 
 THE LULUNGU RIVER. 77 
 
 channel, and crossed over to the left bank. A few isss. 
 hours after we came to the Ikelemba, a comparatively uranL 
 small river about 150 yards wide, the colour of its 
 waters being inky. CHngiiig closely to the left bank, 
 we arrived opposite Uranga at one o'clock on the 17th. 
 This populous community is pleasantly located on an 
 elevated triangle of land to the left of the conflu- 
 ence of tlie Lulungu affluent and the Congo, com- 
 manding an extensive view np and down the Congo 
 and up the Lulungu. 
 
 The latter river rather disappointed me, because 
 the natives had usually spoken of it as beiug a 
 " large " river. We ascended it for about three 
 miles to obtain an idea of its average breadtli. I 
 should judge it to be about 550 yards wide ; but the 
 aborigines informed us that one could ascend it a 
 month's journey in canoes, and that the populousness 
 of its banks is much superior to any part of the 
 Congo. It is larger even than the Mohindu they say. 
 Higher up than the point we reached, the Lulungu 
 may be wider than the Mohindu ; but I doubt it 
 being of greater volume. From all I have gathered 
 and personally seen, it appears to me that there must 
 be a connection between the Lulungu, Ikelemba, and 
 Mohindu, but of what character it would be difficult 
 to say. They are all equally black, and their courses 
 are parallel and equi-distant from each other. The 
 country is very flat though densely wooded, and it is 
 quite possible that there may be channels inland con- 
 necting the rivers. 1 would also include Mantumba,
 
 78 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. and the Lukanga. Indeed, if I understood rightly, the 
 
 October 17. ^ i i i • -i i 
 
 Uranga. natives 01 Ireou spoke as though it were possible to 
 travel from the Lukanga to the Mohindu or Buruki. 
 It is rash, however, to place too much reliance upon 
 these native statements, though it would not at all 
 surprise me to learn some day that a few days' journey 
 inland on either the Mohindu or Lulungu there was a 
 labyrinthine system of liquid channels through alow 
 jungly forest, connecting the three rivers Ikelemba, 
 Lulungu, and Mohindu. A short journey up the 
 Ikelemba, we find the stream nearly impassable to 
 row-boats by the wide overhanging branches stretching 
 from either bank. Canoes, however, travel far inland, 
 if their crews are known to the aborigines, who seem 
 to be too fre'e with their arrows. We experienced tl^.is 
 disposition of the aborigines on the Mohindu to make it 
 credible that on the Ikelemba they are equally averse 
 to strangers. The Congo tribes are civilised compared 
 to the natives dwelling on the banks of the affluents. 
 
 The natives of Uranga came out breathlessly and 
 eagerly in their canoes with friendly hails ; but ex- 
 cept returning their greetings, and maintaining a 
 running fire of compliments and amenities, according 
 to the custom of warm friends, we could do no more, 
 as our. journey would be protracted indefinitely if we 
 stayed at every populated district we saw. 
 
 Ascending the Lulungu a few miles, we turned 
 up a narrow channel connected with the Congo. The 
 latter river being bank-full, the shore and islands 
 were flooded, though here and there the mainland
 
 THE TERRIBLE BANGALA. 79 
 
 showed places where the water had yet to rise two issa. 
 feet before overflowing, which no doubt it would if uranga. ' 
 the watermarks on the trees are to be trusted. A 
 furious squall of wind and rain compelled us to seek 
 an early camp. 
 
 On the 19th we travelled all day along a forested 
 mainland, with palmy islets on our left, until, camping 
 a few miles below Bolombo, trading canoes bound 
 down river told us that Iboko was anxious to see us, 
 the Bangala having already heard of our coming. 
 
 The next day we stopped at Bolombo in N. lat. 
 1° 23' — forty- three hours' steaming above Equator 
 station. I made a verbal treaty and blood-brotherhood 
 with the chiefs, but there was a famine in Bolombo, 
 and the gifts were poor and scant. The people, how- 
 ever, were very amiable, and as amicably inclined as 
 any we had met. 
 
 On the 2Lst of October, four hours above Bolombo, I 
 found myself at last in view of the Bangala — the ter- 
 rible fighters who pressed so hard upon us in 1877. The 
 country of the Bangala is called Iboko, though I did 
 not know it then. I have been told that they remem- 
 ber the fight well, but rumour has varied greatly as to 
 their intentions. Some have told us that they have 
 vowed that if ever the Ibanza returns, they will dispute 
 every inch of the waterway with him. Mangombo of 
 Irebu told me that the lesson was so severe that the 
 Bangala had received, that I need only '' shake a stick 
 at them." However the negotiations might end, it 
 cannot be denied that I felt some anxiety as the flotilla
 
 Iboko. 
 
 80 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. steamed from amongst the islands in view of Iboko, 
 
 October 21. , t . i • , ii • 
 
 whose multitudes pouring out over the river to war 
 I had no wish to see again. At the same time we 
 could not, while professing claims to manhood, for ever 
 stop in dread of the danger. 
 
 They were slow to make their appearance, those 
 terrible Bangala. Not a drum nor horn was sounded 
 to raise the alarm of war. Under the pendent green 
 banana fronds on the banks the aborigines seemed to 
 be gathered in idle crowds, as though they had no con- 
 cern with us, even as though a flotilla of smoke-boats 
 was an everyday occurrence to the tribe of Iboko. 
 We were approaching the first projecting point up 
 the shore — which I remembered very well as a place 
 whence the real fury of the battle in 1877 was met 
 by us — when three canoes dashed out with something 
 of elan in their movement. I detached the En Avant 
 from the flotilla and went out to meet them, Miyongo's 
 guide taking position on the cabin deck. 
 
 " Who are you ? " was shouted. 
 
 " Bula Matari ; come to see Mata Bwyki " (lord of 
 many guns). 
 
 " Ah— h — h ! Mata Bwyki is not at home ; he is 
 gone a-fishing." 
 
 " Is Boleko at home, then ? I am the slave of his 
 brother Miyongo of Irebu." 
 
 "Yes; he is in his villnge." 
 
 This was all. They had no more to say, and we 
 passed on. They returned to the shore, and in an 
 incredibly short time all Iboko seemed to know that
 
 AN IMMENSE SETTLEMENT. 
 
 81 
 
 the curious smoke-boats contained friends, and great i883. 
 
 1 1 /• 1 October 21. 
 
 and small canoes darted out irom the shore to bear us 
 
 Iboko. 
 
 company, until the number of" them was absolutely 
 oppressive. How many scores of canoes were out upon 
 the water, ahead, on either side, and astern, we could 
 not begin to estimate. Almost anything answered the 
 purpose for a canoe — from the mere dough troughs of 
 
 Tribal' Setdemenb 
 ■•^^:S> of the, (Ss-^ 
 
 KA \N1G;A\L ,A\ 
 
 Scale cf£rw. StcUuie Miles 
 
 PLAN OF THE BANGALA SETTLEMENTS. 
 
 bakers to the crocodile-snouted war-canoe impelled by 
 forty stout muscular fellows, who sent her skimming 
 gaily past the steamer. 
 
 Some idea of this immense settlement may be gained 
 when I state that at noon we were abreast of its lower 
 extremity, and at five o'clock we were still two hours 
 YoL. II.— 6
 
 82 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. from its iij^per end, though we had been steadily 
 
 October 21. tit ' ^ ^ 
 
 iboKo. steaming. In 18 m, whiJe gently paddhng with the 
 current, it had occupied us five and a half hours. The 
 guide indicated to us Boleko's village, and also Mata 
 Bwyki's ; but we chose a dismal and dank camp on an 
 islet opposite the former, the channel between being 
 about 500 yards across. Yumbila, the guide, 'departed 
 to see Boleko quite unconcernedly, leaving us to be 
 gazed at until sunset by a thousand of the Bangala. 
 
 I could not help wondering in my mind what they 
 thought of the " Ibanza " who had passed through 
 their ranks in 1877, amid so much flame and smoke. 
 
 In form they were a fine people that we regarded — 
 broad of shoulder, large-muscled, grandly full in the 
 chest, slender-waisted, of rather tall height, to whom 
 life on the river, by the easy manner of their carriage 
 in the generally cranky canoes, must have been an 
 every-day existence. While there were some of them 
 of very black complexion, the majority of them were 
 light bronze, and there were several light as Arabs in 
 complexion. 
 
 Yumbila returned at sunset with the chief Boleko, 
 who was a young man of about twenty-five, of powerful 
 build. Though he was cordial in manner, and offered 
 to introduce me to Mata Bvvyki, who w^ould no doubt 
 do all that was in his power to satisfy my wishes, I 
 observed that the young man was furtive-eyed — almost 
 what one may call thievish in look. His hair was 
 dressed in the usual Kiyanzi style, the marks on the 
 face being slight incisions over the upper part of each
 
 BOLERO THE CHIEF. 83 
 
 cheek, while the centre of the forehead was distin- isss. 
 guished by three fleshy lumps. This I learned after- ^1,^,1^^ 
 wards to be the special tribal marks of the Bangala. 
 
 After a night spent in indescribable discomfort on 
 the islet, Boleko came to us early in the morning to 
 introduce us to his own village, forty canoes serving 
 as an escort of honour to the flotilla. 
 
 What struclv me on entering the creek, on the banks 
 of which Boleko' s village was situate, was that this 
 was the same creek whence issued the first hostile 
 canoes that attacked me in 1877, and which I took to 
 
 ONE OF THE BAKGALA. 
 
 be an affluent of the Congo, whereas it is a narrow 
 channel, separated by a large and fertile island from the 
 main right branch. It affords a capital harbour for 
 canoes and boats in bad weather on account of the 
 reeds, which arrest the movement of the canoes, pro- 
 tecting them from being floated down by the current. 
 
 At Boleko's landing-place trading began in a most 
 lively manner, as provisions were unusually cheap. 
 Six eggs were sold for four cowries ; ten rolls of 
 cassava bread for a brass rod ; a large fowl fetched
 
 84 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. only one brass rod ; a goat cost only ten or twelve 
 
 October 21. 
 
 iboko. I'ods = 6s. ; one mat, five feet square, of palm-leaves, 
 was worth only one rod, while a large one made of split 
 rattan fetched only three ; sweet potatoes, yams, and 
 bananas were so cheap that a day's ration purchased 
 enough to last five days. 
 
 Word came from Mata Bwyki in the course of the 
 day. He was inclined to be jealous that a boy like 
 Boleko should dare to take his guest to himself; but 
 Ndinga, chief of Bolombo, soothed his irritation, and 
 an invitation was at last given to the flotilla to lie 
 alongside of Mata Bwyki's shore on the morrow. 
 
 Warning at sunset was shouted to the crews of the 
 steamers to keep strict watch; but the night Vv'as 
 nevertheless disturbed with a series of cries, such as 
 "Stop thief!" " Oh, my cloth has gone!" "Some 
 one has stolen my knife ! " &c., &c. ; and there were 
 few messes by morning which had not to bewail the 
 loss of some valuable property, so expert and adroit 
 were the thieves, and so very unaccustomed were our 
 peojDle to this kind of wholesale spoliation. 
 
 On the 23rd we dropped down river about two 
 miles, and lay up at Mata Bwyki's landing-place. 
 Close by the waterside, on land, were numerous pits of 
 stagnant water, rank with the poison exhaled from the 
 black pits, where the bitter cassava lay decomposing. 
 An equal number of cesspools could not have tainted 
 the air with more abominable odours. In the river 
 were several circular fences, where the cassava was left 
 to soak and decompose, but which were sweetened by
 
 A MODERN HERCULES. 85 
 
 the constantly-flowing water. Like all other riverine i88:j. 
 
 . October 2a 
 
 tribes, the Bangala keep their canoes constantly sub- iboko. 
 merged, to ensure the longer preservation of them. 
 Under the keels of our steamers we could see faint 
 outlines of several. 
 
 The senior chief, Mata Bwyki (lord of many guns), 
 was an old grey -haired man, of Herculean stature and 
 breadth of shoulder, with a large square face and an 
 altogether massive head, out of which his solitary eye 
 seemed to glare with penetrative power. I should 
 judge him to be 6 feet 2 inches in height. He had a 
 strong sonorous voice, which, when lifted to speak to 
 his tribe, was heard clearly several hundred yards off. 
 He was now probably between seventy-five and eighty 
 years old. His skin hung about his bones in many 
 wrinkles, but with his nine foot-long staff, that was but 
 a shade less heavy than a dingy's mast, he walked with 
 an upright carriage, but when leaning on that mighty 
 staff he straightened his stalwart body and iDitched 
 that stentorian voice of his over the heads of the 
 hundreds of Bangala, one might see that the grand old 
 man had still a fund of vigour in him. He was not 
 the tallest man, nor the best looking, nor the sweetest- 
 dispositioned man I liad met in all Africa ; but if the 
 completeness and perfection of the human figure, com- 
 bining size with strength, and proportion of body, limbs, 
 and head, with an expression of power in the foce, be 
 considered, he must have been at one time the grandest 
 type of physical manhood to be found in equatorial 
 Africa. As he stood before us on this day, we thouglit
 
 86 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. of him as an ancient Milo, an aged Hercules, an old 
 iboko. ' Samson — a really grand-looking old man. At his side 
 were seven tall sons, by different mothers, and although 
 they were stalwart men and boys, the whitened crown 
 of Mata Bwyki's head rose by a couple of inches above 
 the highest head. Kokoro, his eldest son, was begin- 
 ning to show grey hairs, and he had three sons, tall 
 youths, over twenty years old, besides a few chubby- 
 faced young rogues. 
 
 Considering the depth and length of the curved line 
 of hamanity that stood on the shore expecting us, I 
 should estimate the number of people present at about 
 1700, old and young. 
 
 A place for welcoming with due ceremony was pre- 
 pared in a street in the village, just fifty yards from 
 the steamers. Mats of sj^lit rattan were spread in a 
 large semicircle around a row of curved and box 
 stools, for the principal chiefs. In the centre of the 
 line, 023posite this, was left a space for myself and 
 people. 
 
 We were invited on shore to the assembly place. 
 The concourse was so dense that the atmosjDhere was 
 stifling. We had first to undergo the process of steady 
 and silent examination from nearly two thousand pairs 
 of eyes. Then, after Yumbila, the guide, had detailed 
 in his own manner who we were, and what was our 
 mission up the great liver ; how we had built towns 
 at many places, and made blood brotherhood with the 
 chiefs of great districts, such as Irebu, Ukuti, Usindi, 
 Ngombe', Lukolela, Bolobo, Mswata, and Kintamo, he
 
 "/;S THIS TANDELAYf" 87 
 
 urored upon them the pleasure it would be to me to i883. 
 
 ^ ^ ^ . _ October 23. 
 
 make a like compact, sealed with blood, with the great iboko. 
 chiefs of po23uloiis Iboko. He pictured the benefits 
 likely to accrue to Iboko, and Mata Bwyki in par- 
 ticular, if a bond of brotherhood was made between 
 two chiefs like Mata Bwyki and Tandelay, or, as he 
 was known, Bula Matari. 
 
 Then a hoarse murmur was heard through tlic crowd, 
 and Mata Bwyki's deep voice was heard asking : 
 
 " Is this Tandelay ? " 
 
 "Yes." 
 
 For a moment I regretted that I had placed myself, 
 with such unbounded self-confidence, so completely in 
 their power, as I heard my name mentioned, and noted 
 the effect of it upon the overwhelmingly large multi- 
 tude. I was, however, quickly relieved when I remem- 
 bered that Africans cannot act in unison with one 
 another unless they are led by some leader. I was 
 only waiting to hear that leader's angry, stormy, de- 
 nunciative tones to spring out to the boat and begin a 
 combat, for which my cabin contained arms in perfect 
 order. My followers all knew that we were among 
 the warlike Bangala, and I was well aware that every 
 European in the flotilla needed only to hear the alarm- 
 bell of the En Avant to drop his listless manner and 
 affected blandness, and assume a fighting mien with 
 the dangerous breechloader in his hands. 
 
 The leader, however, was mute, and I found myself 
 feeling decidedly unpleasant under this concentrated 
 gaze, ignorant as I was of the language of Iboko.
 
 88 THE CONGO. 
 
 18B3. Could I but have spoken their dialect ! I have often 
 
 October 23, - p i i 
 
 jboko. thought since what an opportunity tor a moral lesson 
 was lost by this. It was perhaps fortunate that I did 
 not. 
 
 Yumbila continued in better form than I could pos- 
 sibly have done. His desire to please soothed and 
 moderated whatever passions might have lain near the' 
 surface of this comparative silence. He described how 
 I had saved Irebu from mutual destruction, how the 
 flag was borne through the ranks of the combatants, 
 and bow its bearer passed on unscathed and unhurt. 
 He described my victorious action with regard to Mi- 
 yongo, how I had saved him from the island, fed and 
 clothed him, and restored him to his home with a 
 store of wealth. The war at Bolobo I heard touched 
 upon also ; his gestures, descriptive of the cannon 
 thundering and shooting its huge ball across the wide 
 river, were remarkably effective, and when he dilated 
 upon the rich things which were hidden in the house 
 on the big steamer, on the stores of murderous 
 weapons, with their quick man and beast slaying 
 properties, and the " bub-bub " of their sound, my 
 safety, if danger had existed, which I strongly suspect 
 it did, was secured, and from Tandelay — the dreaded 
 Ibanza who had inflicted defeat on them in 1877 — 
 emerged the form of the genial, world-loving, peace- 
 making, fraternal Bula Matari ! Oh, what a comedy 
 it all was, could it but be written fairly, and with 
 reasonable truth ! 
 
 A forked palm branch was brought. Kokoro, the
 
 MATA BWYKfs DECISION. 89 
 
 heir, came forward, seized it, and kneeled before me, as „ }^^''^-^ 
 
 ■ ' ' ' October 23. 
 
 drawing out bis short falchion, he cried, " Hold the if^^ko. 
 other branch, Bula Matari ! " I obeyed him, and lift- 
 ing his hand he cleaved the branch in two. " Thus," 
 he said, "I declare my wish to be your brother." 
 
 Then a fetish-man came forward with his lancets, 
 long pod, pinch of salt, and fresh green banana leaf. 
 He held the staff of Kokoro's sword-bladed spear while 
 one of my rifles was bi'ought from the steamer. The 
 shaft of the spear and the stock of the rifle were then 
 scraped on the leaf, a pinch of salt was dropped on 
 the wood, and finally a little dust from the long pod 
 was scraped on the curious mixture. Then our arms 
 were crossed — the white arm over the brown arm— and 
 an incision was made in each ; and over the blood was 
 dropped a few grains of the dusty compound, and the 
 white arm was rubbed over the brown arm. 
 
 Now Mata Bwyki lifted his mighty form, and with 
 his long giant's staff drove back the compressed crowd, 
 clearing a wide circle, and then roaring out in his 
 most magnificent style, leonine in its lung-force, kingly 
 in its effect — 
 
 " People of Iboko ! You by the river side, and you 
 of inland. Men of the Bangala, listen to the words of 
 Mata Bwyki. You see Tandelay before you. His other 
 name is Bula Matari. He is the man with the many 
 canoes, and has brought back strange smoke-boats. He 
 has come to see Mata Bwyki. He has asked Mata 
 Bwyki to be his friend. Mata Bwyki has taken him by 
 tlie hand and has become his blood-brother. Tandelay
 
 90 TBE CONGO. 
 
 1883. belongs to Iboko now. He has become this day one of 
 iboko.' ' ^^^® Baiigala. Oh ! Iboko, listen to the voice of Mata 
 Bwyki." (I thought they must have been incurably 
 deaf not to have heard that voice.) 
 
 "Bula Matari and Mata Bwyki are one to-day. We 
 have joined hands. Hurt not Bula Matari's people ; 
 steal not from them, offend them not. Bring your pro- 
 duce and barter with him. Briug food and sell to him 
 at a fair price, gently, kindly, and in peace, for he is 
 my brother. Hear you, ye people of Iboko ! — you by 
 the river side, and you of the interior ? " 
 
 '• We hear, Mata Bwyki ! " shouted the multitude. 
 
 The rest of the day was spent in obtaining a promise 
 that t should build a station among the Bangala. An 
 entire village of huts and palms and banana-groves 
 was to be sold to me, but I deferred the purchase until 
 I could bring up Lieutenant Coquilhat and his men. 
 Meantime I explained to them that on this occasion 
 I had merely come to reconnoitre, and after examining 
 Langa-Langa, I should return and call on them as 
 I descended towards the equator. We exchanged 
 liberal presents with Mata Bwyki, and our com- 
 panions imitated our example. The ceremony of 
 blood-brotherhood was performed several times over, 
 with the sons and nephews of the patriarchal old 
 chief 
 
 On the 25tli we continued our journey up river, and 
 struck over to tlie left bank by tlie first channel we 
 discovered. It was no easy task, however, to do this, 
 as the islets were so long and so numerous, that we did
 
 LUXURIANT TROPICAL SCENES. 91 
 
 not finally reach the left bank until we had steamed i88.3. 
 
 October 25, 
 
 for thirteen hours. iboko. 
 
 For purely tropical scenes, I commend the verdu- 
 rously rich isles in mid-Congo, between Iboko on the 
 right bank, and Mutembo on the left bank, with the 
 intricate and recurrent river channels meandering 
 between. There the rich verdure reflects the brightness 
 of the intense sunshine in ghstening velvet sheen from 
 frond and leaf. The underwood presents varied colours, 
 witli their tufted tops or the climbing serpentine form 
 of the llianes, and their viny leaves. Each and all have 
 their own separate and particular beauties of colour- 
 ing that renders description impossible. At all times 
 I believe the same refreshing gladness and vigour 
 of tropical nature may be observed about this lati- 
 tude. Some of the smallest islets seemed to be 
 all aflame with crimson colouring, while the purple 
 of the ipomeea, and the gold and white of the jasmine 
 and mimosa flowered, bloomed and difl'used a sweet 
 fragrance. Untainted by the marring hand of man, or 
 by his • rude and sacrilegious presence, these isles, 
 blooming thus in their beautiful native innocence and 
 grace, approached in aspect as near Eden's loveliness 
 as anything I shall ever see on this side of Paradise. 
 They are blessed with a celestial bounty of florid and 
 leafy beauty, a fulness of vegetable life that cannot 
 possibly be matched elsewhere save where soil with 
 warm and abundant moisture and gracious sunshine 
 are equally to be found in the same perfection. Not 
 mere things of beauty alone were these isles. The
 
 92 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. palms were perpetual fountains of a sweet juice, which 
 iboko. when effervescing affords delight and pleasure to man. 
 The golden nuts of other trees furnishes rich yellow 
 fat, good enough for the kitchen of an epicure, when 
 fresh. On the coast these are esteemed as an article of 
 commerce. The luxuriant and endless lengths of 
 calamus are useful for flooring and verandah mats, for 
 sun-screens on river voyages, for temporary shelters 
 on some open river terrace frequented by fishermen, 
 for fish-nets and traps, for field baskets, market hampers, 
 and a host of other useful articles, but more especially 
 for the construction of neat and strong houses, and 
 fancy lattice-work. Such are the strong cord-like 
 creepers which hang in festoons and wind circuitously 
 upward along the trunk of that sturdy tree. The 
 pale white blossom which we see is the caoutchouc 
 plant, of great value to commerce, and which some of 
 these days will be industriously hunted by the 
 natives of Iboko and Bolombo. For the enterprising 
 trader, there is a ficus, with fleshy green leaves ; its 
 bark is good for native cloth, and its soft, spongy 
 fibre will be of some use in the future for the manu- 
 facture of paper. Look at the various palms crowding 
 upon one another. Their fibres, prepared by the 
 dexterous natives of Bangala, will make the stoutest 
 hawsers, the strength of which neither hemp, Manilla 
 fibre, nor jute can match ; it is as superior to ordinary 
 cord threads as silk is to cotton. See that soft pale- 
 green moss draping those tree-tops like a veil. That 
 is the Orchilla weed from which a valuable dye is
 
 IMMENSE FOREST WEALTH. 93 
 
 extracted. I need not speak of the woods, for the tall 188.1. 
 dark forests that meet the eye on hank and isle seem to it^k^,^ 
 have no end. We hurn specimens of their timher every 
 day ; and engineers may be frequently seen admiring 
 its colour and veiniiig, and inhaliug the fragrance of 
 the gum. We are banqueting on such sights and 
 odours that few would believe could exist. We are 
 like children ignorantly playing with diamonds. Such 
 is the wealth of colours revealed every new moment 
 to us already jaded with the gorgeousness of the tropic 
 world. Rarities and treasures of vegetable life are 
 passed by us continuously ; we can do nothing with 
 them, our mission at this time being to hunt up the 
 human denizens, to experiment on human nature. 
 
 Whatever interest we may profess, after all, in this 
 many-hued splendour of the tropic bush, in the varie- 
 gated beauty and overflowing vegetable life on these 
 river isles, or the bountiful wealth of the Congo forests, 
 it is but secondary to that which one must feel for the 
 human communities, the muscles of whose members 
 have a more immediate and practical value to us. For 
 without these the flowers, the plants, the gums, the 
 moss, and the dye weeds of the tropical world must 
 ever remain worthless to them and to ourselves. In 
 every cordial-faced aborigine wliom I meet 1 see a 
 promise of assistance to me in the redemption of himself 
 from the state of unproductiveness in which he at 
 present lives. I look upon him with much of the same 
 regard that an agriculturist views his strong-limbed 
 child ; he is a future recruit to the ranks of soldier-
 
 94 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883, labourers. The Congo basin, could I have but enough 
 
 October25. ^ , . , -, . 
 
 Mutembo. ^i liis ckss, would oecome a vast productive garden. 
 That is one reason why I always search sharply for 
 cordiality of demeanour, a certain frankness of expres- 
 sion, from which I can extract hope for the future. I 
 mentally review the faces thus seen, and say to myself, 
 " You are shy and strange now, my friend, but worse 
 looking fellows than you have been made useful to 
 themselves and the world. A few more trips, and you 
 would go anywhere with me." I fancy sometimes tlie 
 fellows seem to read my thoughts, and smile encourag- 
 ingly upon me, as though they would say in vulgar 
 idiom, " You are right, my boy, but bye and bye." 
 
 Near Mutembo a trading canoe was met descending 
 the river. We forgot all about the isles of Eden, where 
 we had been feasting royally on the perfume of flowers 
 aud blossoms, to talk with its crew. They belonged 
 to Iboko. Rumour had reached them, with its tale of 
 my brotherhood with old Mata Bv/yki. We traded 
 with them in eatables, and gossiped, like friends, of 
 auld lang syne, amid lively chaff and laughter. They 
 had eleven large tusks of ivory, but that was an article 
 we did not want, much to their surprise. 
 
 Before arriving at Mutembo, however, we came to 
 the end of the long island that winds parallel with the 
 left bank, and prevented us from viewing Ukumbi and 
 its chief Ibombo. From all accounts, this settlement 
 must be exceedingly enterprising, but inferior to Iboko 
 in w^ealth, strength, and numbers. 
 
 It had been a beautiful day, bright as a Mediterra-
 
 A STORM. 95 
 
 neau summer day, but about campinsr time the low i883. 
 
 . ' • 1 1 1 1 October 25. 
 
 westering sun became quickly obscured, and toe clouds Mutembo. 
 seemed advancing from ihe north-west, north, and 
 north-east with startling rapidity towards the zenith. 
 Looking behind at the south, we saw rank after 
 rank of voluminous cloud rising as though to meet 
 them. We had often seen similar features in the sky 
 towards sunset, but on this day there was an ominous 
 depth of blackness to attract our attention. Still, we 
 could find no place for shelter, the impervious bush 
 sloped from under the overhanging boughs of the 
 forest monarchs down to the river surface with an im- 
 penetrable closeness that would resist the sharp nose 
 of a crocodile. AVe were in a channel two hundred 
 yards wide, walled in by a bank of vegetation that 
 rose 150 feet high. Two lofty fortress walls could not 
 have been more inhospitable to us. Therefore, while 
 the skies warned us to shelter, the shores on either 
 side positively refused it. The zenith became finally 
 overcast and gloomy, but the northern sky changed its 
 hue to an ashy grey, wherein the tempest brooded. 
 Through some invisible influence, the river's face 
 became unruffled, the tiniest leaf hung still, the tallest 
 reed stood straight, as though " attention " had been 
 ordered, and Nature had stiffened into a petrified still- 
 ness. Only for a few minutes, however, for presently 
 there was a simultaneousness of movement. All the 
 millions of leaves in the forests were started into a 
 violent rustling. Millions of others came sailing down 
 before the blast of the tempest, and millions of wave-
 
 96 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. lets broke over the face of the channel, seemins: to 
 
 October 25. . . ° 
 
 Mutembo. ^acc in couipanj with the leaves. The tall trees, the 
 bombax, and copal and palm, streamed, ragged and 
 frayed, while the forests set up a fearful groaning and 
 creaking, almost human in its agony of resistance. 
 We had no time to note further, for the tempest bore 
 down on us with such overwhelming, overpowering 
 force, that our flotilla was driven down stream, despite 
 the strenuous resistance steam opposed to it. We 
 were perforce compelled to edge away to the shore, to 
 the bushes of which we grappled with our boat-hooks, 
 and waited tremblingly and chillily while the rain- 
 squall drowned the scene in spray and water. From 
 my cabin door I saw the river's face covered with re- 
 bounding jets, which seemed to spring up a foot high, 
 so forcefully did the fierce rain scourge its late calm 
 face. The rollers surged against us, and for a short 
 time we appeared to be tossing heavily in an angry 
 sea. Fortunately, before dark the rain ceased, and we 
 were enabled to find a hole in the bush walls, through 
 which the crew climbed in one after another to make 
 the hawser fast ; but it was too late to search for 
 fuel. 
 
 A couple of hours' hard work next morning provided 
 us with sufficient wood to last eight hours, and we 
 continued our journey. Mutembo and Imeme, places 
 which distinguished themselves in 1877 by coming out 
 in battle array against us, and then firing on us after 
 we had passed their villages, we discovered to have been 
 deserted for several months. We then came opposite to
 
 A BICE COUNTRY. 97 
 
 what we formerly considered to be the mouth of tlie i883. 
 
 October 2*J. 
 
 Sankiiru River, but which Yumbila, our guide, declared ukata" 
 to be merely a channel. We ascended by it, since we 
 did not wish to lose sight of the left bank. Here we 
 discovered that a valuable forest of gum copal trees 
 commenced, the tops of which were draped with or- 
 chilla weed. A general burst of admiration broke out 
 from the lips of the Zanzibaris, who were heard to 
 exclaim : 
 
 " Ah, friends, this is a rich country ! Copal below, 
 and enough orchilla to make many fortunes on the top. 
 There is nothing like this in our country. And just 
 look at the rubber bush ! " 
 
 During the whole of the 27th we passed by one con- 
 tinuous copal forest, covered thickly with the precious 
 dye-weed. 
 
 On the 28th we came to lower Ukatakura, which 
 was also deserted, and, a little above the clearing, 
 arrived at the mouth of a creek about ten yards wide, 
 said by the guide to issue from the Lulungu ! Upper 
 Ukatakura, also deserted, was passed at 4 p.m., and on 
 the banks of another narrow creek just above, issuing 
 from the interior, we camped. 
 
 The orchilla-covered forest continued nearly all day 
 in view on the 29th. On our right the islands became 
 shorter and more complicated. The river was nearly 
 bank-full now, but still rising ; in many places it had 
 already broken over the low banks and entered the 
 forest, and the highest portion uninundated was not 
 more than 6 inches above the face of the river. This 
 Vol. IL— 7
 
 98 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. was evidently a o:ood reason why there was so much 
 
 October 30. , . . . 
 
 Mpaki- unoccupied territory in this direction. 
 
 Yumbila, the guide, beheved that the people of 
 Imeme, Mutembo, and Ukatakura must have been 
 driven away from their country by the warriors of 
 Ubika, who live on the right bank. 
 
 On the 30th, also, the copal- tree forest continued, 
 with its drapery of dye- weed. In the afternoon we 
 passed the deserted settlements of Mpakiwana. 
 
 Early on the morning of the 31st we had to lay-by 
 for another squall, for about an hour, and then con- 
 tinuing our voyage, we came abreast of tlie jDalisaded 
 village of Diya. Iringi, so well remembered for the 
 absurd and treacherous attack its people made on us in 
 1877, was discovered at noon quite deserted. Ikingi, a 
 tribe inland, had warred with the people of Iringi, and 
 compelled them to settle at Umangi, on the right bank. 
 
 At three o'clock we were halted by some small 
 rapids, and compelled to seek another channel. We 
 were finally enabled to steam through deep water 
 unobstructed to Mpa, ruled by lunga, situate just one 
 mile above the rapids, where we were received with 
 the same amiability that distinguished their neighbours 
 of Rubunga in 1877. 
 
 We had now arrived at a point 744 statute miles 
 from Le'opoldville, and about 500 miles of this distance 
 had been traversed along low-forested banks of main- 
 land and islands. But as soon as we came near the 
 small rapids of Mpa, a wide diagonal stretch of river 
 came into view, at the upper end of which rose the
 
 Nov. 1. 
 
 I.anga- 
 Lant';!. 
 
 REFUSING TRADE. 99 
 
 beautiful hills of Upoto, suffused with the tender green i883. 
 colour of young grass, except at the lower slopes, where 
 we saw extensive groves of bananas and fields of 
 cassava. 
 
 On the next day we steamed up to the village of 
 Nganza, lorded by old Rubunga. It had been moved 
 slightly from the place we saw it five years before 
 through some internecine squabble. We were not long 
 in renewing our acquaintance with the old chief 
 Rubunga, whose own village is several miles higher, and 
 Makukuru, who remains master of New Nganza. As in 
 the old time, Umangi, Mpissa, Ukere', and Upoto from 
 the right bank, and Mpa from the left bank, despatched 
 their representatives with ivory tusks, large and small, 
 goats and sheep, and vegetable food, clamorously de- 
 manding that we should buy from them. Such urgent 
 entreaties accompanied with blandishments to purchase 
 their stock were difficult to resist. The people had 
 become firmly convinced that so many whites ad- 
 vancing from the quarter from which guns and 
 powder, cloth, beads, and wire were known to issue 
 could not have ventured so far except for that object. 
 Therefore they would not for a considerable time 
 understand a refusal. When at last they fully under- 
 stood that we would not purchase ivory their dis- 
 appointment was naturally very great, and yet they 
 persisted in offering their elephant teeth at such ridi- 
 culously low prices, that it was no wonder the riverine 
 tribes below felt vexed when they saw us pass by them 
 to the far-famed Langa-Langa.
 
 100 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. According to Yumbila, the populated districts here- 
 
 Nov. 1. ^^ 
 
 Langa- about are known to the Wyyanzi and Bangala as 
 ^"^'^" Langa-Langa (the tipper country ?). This is the El 
 Dorado of native ivory buyers, probably from the un- 
 sophisticated aboriginism of the clotheless and over- 
 tattooed beings they met here. 
 
 Few of our crews believed that there were women 
 of their colour who went about before men's eyes 
 absolutely nude. Naked busts and limbs freely exposed 
 were common, they were aware, through the exigencies 
 of aboriginal life, but this unabashed nudity much 
 astonished them. 
 
 A word must be uttered in extenuation of this 
 shameless exposure of their persons by the women of 
 Langa-Langa. Perceiving that cloth or other covering 
 is unobtainable to screen their persons from the gaze 
 of men, they have resorted to marring that comeliness 
 of which they originally might have boasted by scar- 
 ring their faces and busts. Or was it the jealousy of 
 the men, who imagined this hideous device to shield 
 their women from harm ? However the folly, nay, 
 crime, originated, it has served the purpose effectually, 
 and the Langa-Langa people, by immolating that 
 smoothness of outline of the face and velvety touch 
 of the skin, have saved themselves from being en- 
 slaved. Strangely enough, the Langa-Langa people 
 think the style of scarring their faces by thousands 
 of little cuts, interspersed with huge tumorous blisters, 
 to be beautifying ; and Maka-kuru, having become my 
 brother, earnestly implored me to give him the oppor-
 
 THE GUERENCY CHANGING. 
 
 101 
 
 tunity of exercising liis skill in this novel art of 
 personal adornment on my own face ! 
 
 They have many more muskets at Langa-Langa than 
 they owned in 1877. In that year they only possessed 
 four, with no powder, but the Bangala have since then 
 extended their influence, and now there may be pro- 
 bably a hundred guns on both banks of the river. Like 
 other natives, even those near to the coast, the loud 
 
 1883. 
 Nov. 1. 
 
 I.anga- 
 Langa. 
 
 NATIVE OF LANGA-LANGA, 
 
 startling roar of powder has a charm for them ; and 
 though they are not bold against Bangala and Irebu 
 warriors, they are willing enough to frighten people in 
 the interior who have not yet succeeded in obtaining 
 the much prized musket. 
 
 The currency here changes. The whole piece 
 (twenty-four yards) of domestics and stripes effectively 
 served us as far as Many an ga. Blue glass beads be-
 
 102 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. came then in demand as far as lyumbi ridge ; thence 
 
 Nov. 1. 
 
 Lan^a- ^s far as Langa-Langa the brass rod or matako was the 
 most convenient ; but at Langa-Langa the masaro, or 
 sofi, of Ujiji, known to Itah'ans as Cannetone bead, 
 very similar to half-inch pieces of pipe stem, white and 
 black, comes into use with large cowries. Brass rods 
 are slowly coming into favour, but the trader will 
 regret being unprovided with the pipe stems. Cloth, 
 however, will win the day here eventually. AVe were 
 literally besieged for the very smallest refuse of clout- 
 rag that we possessed. The store of bread, eggs, fowls, 
 obtained for cast-ofF pieces of cotton dress, was most 
 surprising, while two yards of bright red handkerchief 
 purchased a fat goat. 
 
 The Langa-Langa natives have only lately learned 
 that ivory is marketable. The visits of the Bangala to 
 them have excited Mpa, Yakongo, Ikassa, on the left 
 bank, and Umangi, Mpissa, Ukere, Upoto, and Iringi 
 on the right bank, to exploit the regions above them, 
 in the same manner as they themselves are periodically 
 visited by Iboko and Irebu. 
 
 From Nganza our course is eastward as we continue 
 our voyage, and will continue so for about two degrees 
 of longitude. Since leaving Leopoldville our course 
 has been about north by east as far as the junction of 
 the Kwa vvith the Congo, thence north for about 130 
 miles, thence about north by east as far as Iboko, thence 
 east by noith as far as Nganza. 
 
 On the 4th of November, clinging still to the left 
 bank we passed after about eight miles steaming the
 
 TIMIDITY OF THE NATIVES. 103 
 
 new village of Rubunga, called Yakongo ; at noon we i883. 
 
 Nov. 4. 
 
 were abreast of Ikassa in N. Lat. 2" 1'. The people 2<d(,bo. 
 were too timid to answer oiir hail, but at Yakongo, 
 despite our friendship with old Rubunga, they seemed 
 to have prepared for flight up a creek, the entrance 
 to which had been palisaded to prevent our approach. 
 I presume the men must have had cause to dread 
 the acquaintance of strangers. The arrival of cloth, 
 however, in greater abundance must undoubtedly seal 
 effectually the virtue of the females. 
 
 Getting out of the narrow channel running by 
 Ikassa and Yakongo, we steamed across to the right 
 bank to try our fortunes thence forward on that side. 
 
 On the 5th all traces of the hills of Upoto had 
 vanished and we had the same flatness of ground 
 again, but of a more habitable height above river, and 
 the forests that rose in such towering walls of dark 
 green vegetation, had been cleared in many places, 
 although the inhabitants were wanting. 
 
 The next day, after passing several abandoned sites, 
 we came to Ndobo, a very large and newly built 
 village or town, laid in an uniform line of about a 
 mile and a half in length. Immediately beyond rose 
 Ibunda into view, whose people we found seated on 
 the ground with their spears and ofi'ensive weapons 
 alongside of each. 
 
 As these people had evidently but lately settled in 
 the two towns, they were not remarkable for neatness 
 in appearance. The lower half of some of the huts 
 were of wattle and plastered over. Steep ladders strung
 
 104 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. along the upright day bank, which was from 8 to 
 
 Nov. 5, 
 
 Ndobo. 12 feet above the river, enabled the natives to step 
 in and out of their canoes. Their dug-outs, though 
 numerous, appeared to be small, and only adapted for 
 fishing. Sloping roads had been carved out of the 
 bank here and there to enable them to drag their 
 vessels up to the safe level of their town, and to launch 
 their new canoes, many of which we saw in process of 
 construction. 
 
 It was in the neighbourhood of Ndobo we saw the 
 first heap of oyster shells, which will no doubt long 
 remain there in evidence of a former population. 
 
 Early on the 7th we arrived at Bumba, which in size 
 was a real town. A fog had prevented us from seeing 
 anything until we were close upon it. By the tran- 
 quillity of demeanour observed among the people we 
 deemed it opportune to test their hospitality and 
 friendliness, and succeeded in obtaining an invitation 
 to go alongside the tall bank. Myombi, the chief, was 
 easily persuaded by Yumbila to make blood-brother- 
 hood with me, and for the fiftieth time my poor arm 
 was scarified, and my blood shed for the cause of 
 civilisation. Probably one thousand people of both 
 sexes looked on the scene wonderingly and strangely. 
 A young branch of a palm was cut, twisted and a knot 
 tied at each end ; the knots were dipped in wood ashes, 
 and then seized and held by each of us while the 
 medicine-man practised his blood-letting art, and 
 lanced us both until Myombi winced with pain. After 
 which the knotted branch was severed, and in some
 
 THE DREADED IBANZA. 105 
 
 incomprehensible manner I Lad become united for ever isss. 
 
 ^ , Nov. 7. 
 
 to my fiftieth brother, to whom I was under the Bumba. 
 obligation of defending against all foes until death. 
 
 Despite, however, these and sundry other precau- 
 tions against imaginary evil, the people were not quite 
 satisfied in their minds, for the dreaded Ibanza must be 
 concealed, they thought, in our boats. What was it 
 that they heard throb and sigh, and groan so heavily 
 as the En Avant came alongside their landing place ? 
 They ranged themselves over and above the boats, lost 
 in silent contemplation of the wonderful structures. 
 Their thoughts struggling for utterance were perplex- 
 ing them, and preventing the usual glib and noisy 
 interchange of ideas. The problems they have to 
 resolve are weighty and difficult, they know of nothing 
 to which they can compare the medley of strange noises 
 issuing from the huge iron pots which hiss incessantly. 
 What unseen power was it that revolved the wheels 
 they saw fly around with lightning speed? What 
 does that iron drum contain ? Why is that white 
 cook throwing in such large sticks ? Does the Ibanza 
 eat wood? Is it the Ibanza cooped up in the iron 
 drum who makes that squeaking noise escaping out 
 of the funnel ? These and such like thoughts trouble 
 the minds of the aborigines of Bumba, so tliat little 
 trade for food can be made although it is j^lentiful 
 and cheap. 
 
 On the 8th, bananas, goats, chickens, sugar-cane, 
 tobacco, pumpkins, sweet potatoes and yams are freely 
 sold, altliough the multitude is flighty and prone to
 
 106 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. panic, which causes the two chiefs Myombi and Sun go 
 Bumba. Maji to be rushing about crying out " Peace, people ! 
 Sell your produce in security, these whites are our 
 brothers by every bond that can bind us." Withal, 
 however, these hearty efforts lo impress their people 
 with confidence the slightest rush of steam, a movement 
 of a white man, the impatient lifting of a helmet off 
 the brow, the scratching of a heated head would send 
 hundreds promiscuously fiying like a herd of frightened 
 buffalo. Sacred water was sprinkled along the shore, 
 and over the trees, and towards the boats ; the long 
 hand-bell of Sungo Maji was vigorously beaten, and old 
 men came and muttered their incantations, but yet 
 there was a dread of the " Ibanza." The stifled screams 
 of women testified to a presentiment that he was 
 present, the uneasy restless rolling eyes of the men 
 searched for the first symptoms that he was advancing 
 the cries of " Be firm, men of Bumba, there is 
 nothing to fear ! " reiterated over and over, by the 
 chiefs, who were ringing their bells like anxious town- 
 criers, denoted vivid expectancy, and finally the 
 " Ibanza " emerged into view ! 
 
 One of my cabin-boys, enjoying all this extraordinary 
 fright visible in the actions and faces of the natives, 
 while I was engaged talking with the engineer, had 
 gone into the cabin, shutting the door after him. 
 Presently the door was violently burst open, and the 
 splendid form of a royal Bengal tiger crawled out ! 
 A long thrilling sliriek rang out, and all at once the 
 hundreds that stood on the shore, casting one hurried
 
 A TRICK WITH A TIQER-SKIN. 107 
 
 glance at the terrible figure, with an unity of move- i883. 
 
 Nov. 8. 
 
 ment fled shrieking and yelling from the river bank. Yambin<r8. 
 
 When we discovered what had caused this extra- 
 ordinary flight of the aborigines, their yells were 
 immediately followed by roars of laughter from the 
 crews of the boats, which the flying natives heard, 
 and then halted, reassured more effectively by the 
 merriment than by hours of bell ringing on the part 
 of the criers. It brought them back, too, to see a 
 tall young fellow laughing immoderately, while a 
 collapsed tiger-skin lay at his feet in a harmless heap. 
 The laughter became contagious, and one might see 
 an entire population slapping their thighs, staggering 
 convulsively about, and grasping one another for 
 support as they reeled under the spasms which 
 agitated them. 
 
 An hour and a half above Bumba is an equally 
 populous town named Yambinga. It is on the same 
 bank. As we approached, the lower portion of the 
 town appeared to be disposed to reject us ; but we 
 persevered in bawling out for Mukuku, the chief of 
 Yambinga, whose name we had slyly obtained from 
 Sungo-Maji of Bumba. In about fifteen minutes 
 Mukuku deifrned to come out into view on the river 
 bank, a veritable dark Robinson Crusoe, in head- 
 dress and accoutrements. Over his curly head he 
 wore an antelope-skin cap, adorned with a mighty 
 crest of cock's feathers, while a broad slioulder-belt 
 of leopard-skin, attached to which was a misctllaneous 
 assortment of the tags and tassels of fetisli mysteries,
 
 108 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. was slunj^ over his manlv breast. He advanced 
 
 Nov. 8. . . • 11 T • / 
 
 Yambinga. nngmg energetically his long bell, crying, " I am 
 Mukuku, and I have heard of the Ibanza. I wish 
 to see him face to face. Let the Ibanza land, and 
 come to Mukuku." 
 
 These were brave words ; but anyone might see by 
 
 OLD CHIEF IN NATIVE-MADE HAT. 
 
 the manner Mukuku hovered near the thickest of the 
 human throng, that had he not been chief, and been 
 so vociferously hailed by Yumbila, he would have 
 much preferred to remain unseen by tlie grim spirit 
 whom he so valorously adjured to walk ashore. 
 
 We set ourselves resolutely to conquer Mukuku's
 
 TAMBINGA. 109 
 
 fear of the Ibanza, and with such good results, that i883. 
 after the blood-brotherhood ceremony had been de- Yambinga. 
 spatched, not a shadow of doubt of our benignity 
 remained in the good man's head. 
 
 During our stay here, the information was elicited 
 that behind, or to the north of Yambinga, there flowed 
 a river which emptied into the Congo, east of their 
 town, called by some Itimbiri, by others Ngingiri. 
 They said it was large; and that traders came from 
 the north, and sold cowries and white beads to the 
 Watumba who inhabited Musanga land. 
 
 " Yambinga," said our informants, " and all this 
 country round here, is an island (a peninsula ?), for the 
 Itimbiri river is large, and ascends far behind us." 
 
 They also gave us a vast number of names of places ; 
 but their ideas of locality were so very vague, and as 
 each channel and islet of the main river bears its dis- 
 tinctive title, their information had no practical value. 
 
 On the 10th of November, at 2 p.m., we continued 
 our journey, and an hour later passed by Upper Yam- 
 binga. At this place, hauled ashore, or floating in the 
 river fastened to stakes, there were 243 pirogues; 
 Lower Yambinga possessed 313 exposed to sight, 
 Bumba nearly 400, Ndobo and Ibunda, perhaps as 
 many, by which we have 1300 " dug-outs," or pirogues. 
 As the smallest of these will likely have a beam of 
 15 inches, and is about 20 feet in length, an idea 
 may be gained of the supplies of timber furnished 
 by about twenty miles of forest. The war canoes 
 are too valuable to be exposed to risk of loss by
 
 110 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. flood, SO they are submerged and fastened by strong 
 itimbiri. rattan hawsers to poles deeply buried in the clayey 
 bank. 
 
 By clinging to the right bank, despite the un- 
 promising narrowness of some of the channels, we 
 came in the afternoon, two hours after passing Upper 
 Yambinga, into a broad channel 350 yards wide, which 
 by following up we found led us from a course E.S.E. 
 to N.E., and kept northing very fast until we were 
 running N.N.E. It was then on waking up that we 
 discovered ourselves to be in the river named to us as 
 the Itimbiri. At Yankau, on its left bank, seated on 
 a bluff with a clear open country about it, where the 
 river still showed signs of further inclination to the 
 north, we retraced our course. 
 
 This then was the river which the people of Yam- 
 binga said ran behind them, and along which, in its 
 upper course, traders came from the north distributing 
 the Italian cannetone beads, and on whose banks lived 
 the Watumba. The water they said spread out broad 
 in some places, and a man could not be seen on its 
 opposite shore. Could it be a lake, or a mere broad 
 expansion of the river ? 
 
 The mouth of the river is in N. Lat. 1° 57', and is 
 about 180 geographical miles in a direct line to In- 
 guima, on the Welle-Makua River. Its water is 
 certainly clear, and might well come from a lake at 
 no great distance inland. Yamu-ningiri is the name 
 of a large village about eight miles above the con- 
 fluence, up the Itimbiri. The river forms a delta, and
 
 SKILL IN METAL WORKING. Ill 
 
 many forested islets dot the entrance. Opposite Yankau isss. 
 
 ■^ _ ^ , Nov. 10. 
 
 it is a deep, navigable river, fully 350 yards wide, of Mutembo. 
 a slightly darker colour than the Congo. 
 
 On the great river, situate above the confluence 
 about four miles, we discovered Mutembo, consisting 
 of three palisaded villages. Its inhabitants crouched 
 behind their huts, spear in hand, to resist an expected 
 attack, and as we passed by they dashed out into the 
 open and slapped their rearward parts — a method of 
 expressing contempt pretty generally known to vulgar 
 Europeans. 
 
 On the 12th, in the early morning, we passed by an 
 unusually large clearing, that we at first, from its 
 spacious breadth, took to be a natural plain. A city 
 might have stood on the magnificent site, which was 
 now dreary and desolate. The large population sup- 
 ported upon this wide expanse must have had power- 
 ful reasons for its abandonment, of w^hich we must 
 remain yet awhile ignorant. 
 
 For the first time we saw the left bank of the Congo, 
 clear across from the right bank. The abandoned 
 plain was once occupied by the Yalulima tribe, whom 
 we shall meet on the left bank as we descend. This 
 tribe is cunning for its iron manufactures, including 
 the spears, the swords, the long bells, single and 
 double, and the tiny dancing bells, which the pro- 
 fessors of fetishism — Mgangaism, Inkissism, Ikiraism, 
 or by whatever name you choose to designate the 
 sorceries known to these natives — love to attach to 
 their snake and iguana-skin-girdles.
 
 112 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. At the projecting- point on the right bank of the 
 
 Yambungu. river, in the plain which the Yaluhma tribe once 
 inhabited, the breadth of the Congo is' about a mile and 
 a half, and eight miles of a view np stream is obtained, 
 while as far as Muterabo below^ the main channels lie 
 fully exposed for many miles. 
 
 An island, a few miles above, contains the village 
 of Yambungu, whose natives showed a disposition to 
 be friendly, but their dialect was unintelligible to us, 
 although our guide, Yumbila, comprehended what they 
 said. They showed to us several large tusks of ivory, 
 but, perceiving that we were not purchasers of their 
 precious material, they brought to us enormous yams, 
 and baskets of large healthy sweet potatoes, also sheep 
 with broad fat tails, besides fowls and eggs. 
 
 Opposite the upper extremity of this island we dis- 
 covered the embouchure of another river — the Xkuku ? 
 — whose waters verged on blackish in colour. Two 
 hundred and fifty yards would be a fair estimate of its 
 breadth. Not much information that was intelligible 
 could be gained from the natives, but my opinion is 
 that it is a branch of the Itimbiri River. Inland they 
 said that it was of great width. The districts around 
 it are populous. We heard such names of villages as 
 Luika, Yatui, Bwila, Mukanda-Meya, Isako, Bungele, 
 Wanbuna, but as we may have shortly to locate these 
 definitely, it will be better for us in the meantime to 
 leave the districts blank 
 
 On the 13th we voyaged along a marvellously rich 
 bank of tropical woods, dotted thickly with the fishing
 
 APPEARANCE OF WAR CANOES. 113 
 
 hamlets of the Basaka. The islands of the Coujro we ^^^^• 
 
 ° Nov. 15. 
 
 also discovered to be peopled. Banm. 
 
 On the 14th we passed by the Bahamba villages, 
 and large war canoes were observed to hover about, 
 some of them being manned by forty men. "When they 
 perceived that we steadily pursued our way without 
 attempting to land they returned to their villages. At 
 night we heard the sound of drums up-river, and were 
 reminded of our experiences in 1877. 
 
 On the loth we steamed up, and at 8 a.m. came 
 in view of the Baruu villages, situate on high ground, 
 probably 60 feet above the river. There was a con- 
 siderable degree of hostile demonstration with spears 
 and shields along the bank, but our steady progress 
 past them, with our still demeanour, aided by their 
 curiosity to pay more attention to the steamers, quite 
 tranquilised them. 
 
 A thick fog settled over us for about an hour, and 
 the left bank loomed up into view between the islets. 
 
 At noon I obtained an observation, and discovered 
 that we were in N. lat. 1° 17', and much nearer the 
 Aruwimi than I thought. 
 
 Orders were then given to prepare rifles and cart- 
 ridges, to guard against those impetuous spearsmen of 
 the great affluent which despatched its enormous canoe- 
 flotilla against us in 1877. It was not likely that the 
 fierce aborigines would repeat their attempt against a 
 steam-flotilla ; still prudence warned us not to omit pre- 
 cautions, for if we were ever taken unawares in this 
 region so far removed from help, the flood of the Congo 
 ToL. II.— 8
 
 114 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. would certainly be the recipient of our mutilated 
 
 Nov. 15. . ^ , . . 1 • 1 
 
 Aruwimi. remams. We are also on this occasion armed with 
 a charm, against which, unless they are hopelessly 
 hostile, they need not hope to contend, and that is 
 a determination on our part to remain passive. Only 
 when nothing else will avail shall we employ our rifles, 
 and it" we have to resort to our weapons, we shall 
 remain until their savageness shall be utterly extin- 
 guished. 
 
 The forest on our left, as we advance, is grand in its 
 wealth of valuable woods and refreshing vernal appear- 
 ance. The islets are rapidly thinning, the left bank 
 rises boldly into view, and the Congo appears to 
 emerge into one broad united stream. I am observing 
 these features of the landscape, when an immensely 
 long canoe, loaded with armed men, dashes from 
 behind an island, and races rapidly across the stream ; 
 being presently followed by another, and still another. 
 Compared with the petty dug-outs which we have 
 hitherto seen, they are splendid vessels. 
 
 We, however, advance in close order ; and I doubt 
 much whether these reconnoitring war-canoes, after 
 discovering the strange guise in which the strangers 
 are advancing, have obtained much comfort in the 
 column of smoke-boats. 
 
 The war-canoes having reached the right bank, con- 
 tinue on their way upward, one after another ; and in 
 this sight our eyes, rapidly taking note of every move- 
 ment, detect in it an augury of good. " There is not 
 going to be a rush this time," we thought.
 
 BATTLE ARRAY. 115 
 
 Presently passing the abandoned clearing where isss. 
 stood the village which we stormed and took by Aruwimi 
 assault in 1877, and the very spot where we awaited 
 the attack of the flotilla of the Aruwimi, the great 
 affluent gapes open into view. The mighty parent 
 stream also appears, with its magnificent breadth of 
 water. Steadily continuing on our way, we enter 
 the Aruwimi, until rounding a point which has 
 prevented us as yet from obtaining a view of the 
 villages, we see the town of Mokulu, where the Basoko, 
 or Basongo, our ancient foes, reside. It is extended 
 along a high clay bank about three miles in length. 
 All its males, I should say, are in battle array on the 
 verge, presenting an irregular, bronze-coloured line of 
 fully-armed men. Brave in their war-paint — yellow, 
 red, and white — and holding large shields on their 
 left arms, they disport themselves fantastically before 
 our view, while the great war-drums thunder the 
 alarm, and incite their courage to its utmost pitch by 
 a deep, bellowing sound. Keeping a respectful ad- 
 vance of us are the three war-canoes, now joined by 
 four other monsters of craft of excavated teak, having 
 double rows of upstanding paddlers in each, with their 
 paddle-shafts decorated with round ivory balls, while 
 on the platforms astern dance the naval warriors, and 
 startling blasts, from long ivory horns, sound wnld 
 musical notes, which are re-echoed by the tall woods 
 on the opposite side. 
 
 Arriving opposite the centre of the town, we steered 
 across the river to a small clearing, which T detected in
 
 116 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. the bank, dividing the grea* affluent from the Congo. 
 
 Nov. 15. 
 Mokulu. 
 
 The steam-launches, Royal and A.I. A., also the whale- 
 boat and canoes, were left here, while the En Avant, 
 detached from her consorts, raced across the stream 
 back again to the warriors, that were so conspicuously 
 outlined on the verge of the bank of Mokulu. Yum- 
 bila, with the promise of a rich reward ringing in his 
 ears if he succeeded in allaying this frenzy, took his 
 position on the top of the cabin, and the steamer 
 having gained the upper extremity of Mokulu, stopped, 
 and floated down stream while the voice of Yumbila 
 rang out clear and loud the words of peace and 
 friendship. 
 
 They must have been powerful phrases our guide 
 employed, judging from the sudden silence and hush 
 that fell on the crowded river bank. The drums that 
 boomed the sonorous alarum of war ceased their deep 
 sounds. The horns which emitted the dreadful defiant 
 blasts of battle, the angry cries grown hoarse with 
 fury, the frantic forms that leaped and bounded upward 
 with quivering spears, all were hushed and stilled, and 
 an anxiety to advance nearer and nearer to tlie voice 
 promising peace was evident in the stealthy movement 
 of the masses. And then, although all this time we 
 were quite ignorant what the syllabled jargon actually 
 expressed, we observed — for our task was that of 
 silently noting everything — the people depositing their 
 sljields and spears near stumps, or trees, or houses 
 in the rear, as if there were a kind of guilt in the late 
 frenzy that had possessed them.
 
 A PEACEFUL CONQUEST. 117 
 
 " Bravo, Yumbila ! keep at it, my friend. You have issa. 
 done well ! But go on, their ears are hungry to hear Mok'uiu. 
 more of your sweet voice," we whisiDered. And Yum- 
 bila begins again with open palms, bland face, and 
 archness combined with humour, to expatiate, we 
 presume, upon the blessings of maintaining a friendly 
 communion of man with man. Accent and gesture 
 are both so expressive, that they finally extort from a 
 warrior on the bank friendly human tones in reply. 
 They are so modulated and framed that they impress 
 even our ignorant ears and dull senses with a feeling 
 that the speaker of the Basoko is explaining suavely 
 the causes that induced him and his fellows to exhibit 
 themselves so rampantly ferocious. And then we 
 understand, through Yumbila, that we are requested 
 to camp where the other steamers are left for the 
 present, and that after awhile the Basoko would come 
 to us as friends. 
 
 We waited an hour at our forest camp, and then 
 half-a-dozen tiny canoes, each containing two men, 
 advanced within 250 yards of us. There they hesi- 
 tated, contenting themselves with gently paddling 
 against the current. 
 
 Yumbila was again required to exert his suasive 
 accents to inspire them with courage to advance nearer. 
 How very patient we all were, watching this slow 
 growth of confidence in their minds, may be imagined 
 when it took those people an hour to approach our 
 sliore, a few paces above our camp. Thither Yumbila, 
 and three of the most plausible of our men, marched to
 
 118 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. meet tbera, wliere the ceremony of blood-brotlierliood 
 
 No 15. . -^ 
 
 Mokuiu. was enacted, and shrill screams of satisfaction an- 
 nounced that their timidity was at last vanquished. 
 The town of Mokuiu heard the good news, and the 
 great drums now sounded the intelligence around, 
 which presently were responded to with thunderous 
 booms from some other distant community, and thus 
 our intercourse with the wild Basoko commenced.
 
 TUMBILA'S BUDGET. 119 
 
 CHAPTER XXIX. 
 
 UP THE BIYERKE. 
 
 Yumbila returns with an interesting story — Slave kidnappers probably 
 from the Soudan — Skilful workmanship — Umaneh and Yakui — 
 Conical huts — The course of the river — Metropolitan Yambumba — 
 A sham famine — The rapids — Supposed identity of the Biyerre and 
 Welle — Keasons for this opinion — Arabs in the neighbourhood — 
 Again on the Congo. 
 
 Yumbila, the e-uide, crossed over to Mokulu with his isss. 
 
 ^ , Nov. 16. 
 
 nevv]y-made blood-brother that evening. When he Mokuiu, 
 returned the next morning he was radiant with 
 triumph. The white man had promised to reward 
 him for his signal services, and the Basoko had pre- 
 sented him with two fine tusks of ivory, to show their 
 appreciation of his worth. 
 
 It may well be supposed that he gossiped until late 
 hours among the Basoko, satisfying them with abundant 
 information respecting the white men and the propel- 
 ling agencies that drove the smoke-boats so far up 
 against the current of the Congo. And evidently the 
 Basoko had something to say whicli smacked of tra- 
 dition and wonder. 
 
 Unfolding his budget, Yumbila informed us first of
 
 120 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. how the Basoko, many years ago, were alarmed by 
 Mokuiu. reports of a powerful tribe who were descending the 
 Congo past the Yakusu, commanded by a man with a 
 face as pale as the moon. " In our waters," they said, 
 *' we never heard of a tribe moving down with many 
 canoes, unless it came for war. So when we heard of 
 this tribe, we moved out of our river to fight it, but it 
 turned against ns just at the meeting of the waters, 
 and though the strangers did not liave many canoes, 
 when we bore down on them they dropped our people 
 level with fire and soft iron, which tore ns to pieces, 
 that we could not stand against them. They then 
 pursued ns and fought us in our own town, and we 
 could not even see what it was they threw at us, 
 except our dead, who fell down and never rose ngain. 
 And the tribe went away down the river, and we 
 never heard what became of it until the other morning, 
 while it was quite dark, we heard the dread sound, 
 ' boom, boom, boom,' which is like the thunder of the 
 sky in our ears, and we felt the flash of the flame in our 
 faces. Waking up from our sleep, we rushed out from 
 our houses, and the darkness was lit up by a thousand 
 jets of fire ; and a crackling noise was heard, louder 
 than a burning plain makes, and more terrible than 
 the most prolonged thunder. There was whizzing and 
 buzzing, as of flying stones, in our ears, and many of 
 our people, on coming out into the light of the burning 
 houses, were struck dead by these things. The same 
 fear came upon us as when we first heard the loud 
 thunder shot at us from the strange tribe, years ago,
 
 " WHO WERE THESE PEOPLE ? » 121 
 
 on the river, and we ran for our very lives into the 
 depths of the woods, where, in the thickest parts, we 
 hxy with our faces in the ground, afraid to lift our 
 heads up, lest we might be hit by those iron balls that 
 sang over us and crashed into the trees from our 
 village. When we heard our women and children 
 cry out, we thought we would do something. PVora 
 our coverts we looked out. We saw that some of our 
 houses were still on fire, and we heard again the long 
 shrieks of our women and cries of our children, and 
 again we heard the startling boom that those long 
 hollow tubes, such as your people make, and again 
 were we frightened and threw ourselves down into the 
 thick bush. By-and-bye there was a deathly stillness ; 
 we got a little bolder, and crept out to see for ourselves 
 what had happened, and when we came to look upon 
 Mokulu, more than half of it was burnt to the ground, 
 as you can see to-morrow ; and as for our women and 
 children, we lost hundreds of them." 
 
 This was the story Yumbila had gathered, or some 
 of it, which was only completely told when he induced 
 his new brothers to repeat to him again some of its 
 most prominent points. Yumbila had fully succeeded 
 in convincing them that we could not have known of 
 this massacre and ruthless deed of darkness. 
 
 " Who were these people ? Where did they come 
 from ? Where are they now ? By what river did 
 they come to you ? " 
 
 " Ah, we know not. We were all asleep when they 
 came, and they departed, no one knows where, in 
 
 1883. 
 Nov. 10. 
 
 Mokulu.
 
 122 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. canoes. We think they must be the Bahuno;a, or some 
 
 Nov. 16. -^ ^ 
 
 Mokuiu. people from the far east, or perhaps they came from 
 the north. Some of our people managed to get a sight 
 of them, and say they were dressed like your joeople. 
 But you came with Yumbila from below, and Yumbila 
 says he never heard of such people." 
 
 By dint of patient questioning, we learned also that 
 they heard that there were people wearing cloth north 
 of the Basoko, from whom they sometimes, in the way 
 of trade with neighbouring tribes, obtained a few oi 
 their beads and copper armlets, but they had not seen 
 any of them. 
 
 Of such a tribe as the Bahunga I had never heard in 
 1877, and my impression was that these midnight 
 marauders were Soudan slave-traders, who had probably 
 descended the great afiluent. 
 
 This opinion induced me to attempt obtaining some 
 information respecting this river. But even its name 
 they were either unable or unwilling to imjmrt to me, 
 and when they asked me if I intended to follow up the 
 river, and learned that such was my intention, the 
 intelligence nearly became the cause of a rupture in 
 our newly-made friendship. This manifest reluctance 
 to any disclosures respecting the upper course of the 
 river only aroused my curiosity, which was further 
 increased when I learned that they had no objection 
 to our ascent of the Congo. 
 
 Provisions were exceedingly abundant and were 
 cheaper than at Iboko. White beads ;ind cowries 
 seemed to be the popular currency here until our cloth
 
 MOKULU. 123 
 
 was exhibited, when, to possess a penny handkerchief iss.x 
 became the object of general ambition. Mokuiu 
 
 Their paddles, knives, and spears, exhibit remark- 
 able skill in workmanship. On a paddle blade may be 
 seen an infinite number of carvings rudnly resembling 
 lizards, crocodiles, canoes, fish, buffalo, &c. Their 
 knives are broad swords in size and breadth, and as 
 finely polished as a new razor ; while their spears 
 
 A TYPE OF THK RASOKO. 
 
 are as sharp and bright as though they had just left 
 a Sheffield shop. 
 
 Almost every man possessed some kind of headdress, 
 either knit out of palm fibre material, or made of the 
 skin of a monkey, or an antelope. A capacious knit 
 haversack was a universal appendage to the shoulder. 
 
 Physically they are a splendid people for muscular 
 development, tliough there are some ill-featured, dark 
 in colour, and puny of form among them. During the 
 few days of our mutual intercourse, they gave us a high 
 idea of their qualities — industry after their own style
 
 124 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. not being the least conspicuous. They seemed to me 
 
 Kov. 17. 
 
 Umaueh. to ^6 the most Valuable people for this characteristic 
 that I had met. Their fishing canoes were witnessed 
 coming in and going out continually, and while the 
 people traded with us, they continued to pursue their 
 knitting of haversacks, hats, fish-nets, or twist twine, 
 after the industrious manner of the traditional grand- 
 dame of England. 
 
 The town of Mokulu, though large, did not come up 
 to the standard I expected to find in it as the liome of 
 that overwhelming force of warriors, which swept down 
 so proudly to meet us in 1877. The reluctance which 
 the aborigines manifested to our ascent of the affluent, 
 the dim ideas that crept into my mind about Soudanese 
 Arabs, all combined to create such a desire to investi- 
 gate the river, that, thougli our time was valuable, 
 we started on the 17th to explore it. 
 
 From a breadth of 1600 yards at the moutlij'^a few 
 miles below Mokulu, the river contracts to 900 yards; 
 then, where islands begin to be a little more numerous, 
 it widens, from bank to bank, to a breadth of about 
 1400 yards. 
 
 At 8 A.M. we left our camp opposite Mokulu, and 
 two hours later we halted to cut better fuel. Resuming 
 our journey at 2 p.m., we found ourselves three-quarters 
 of an hour later abreast of Umaneh, which was 
 superior in extent to Mokulu. A veritable Leviathan 
 among canoes lay alongside the clay bank, and 
 would require at least one hundred stout warriors to 
 propel it at sufficient speed in a river-fight. The stern
 
 TEE FISHERMEN OF YAKUT. 12.") 
 
 platform was of three-inch teak, while the bow was i883. 
 massive enough to sink a merchant ship. The empty umaaeh. 
 canoe showed at least 30 inches of free board, and alons: 
 its whole length were carved figures of crocodiles and 
 fishes. 
 
 Umaneh being only two and three-quarter hours 
 above Mokulu, I began to see how the great affluent 
 could muster a large flotilla. Messengers, no doubt, 
 had informed the natives of our coming, for a more 
 peaceful assemblage than we noticed on the banks 
 could not have been wished. They coolly sat down in 
 groups, or singly, surveying our vessels as though 
 they belonged to Greenwich or Liverpool. I should 
 have been well pleased to exchange views on naval 
 architecture with such indefatigable and scientific 
 canoe-eonstructors as these Basoko ; but time would 
 not allow of delay. 
 
 At 6 P.M., of the same day, we were abreast of 
 Yakui, on right bank ; but Yakui on the left bank, 
 which came in view as we steamed past an island, was 
 much larger. 
 
 At our camping-place next morning at dawn ap- 
 peared the fishermen of Yakui, who sold us fish, and 
 imparted the names of the villages very frankly. They 
 called themselves Basongo very distinctly. When 
 questioned about the river, they gave their hand a 
 south-easterly turn indicative of its course. 
 
 A few miles above we came to Isombo, and nearly 
 opposite was the first bluff, about forty feet high, from 
 which the shore curved grandly from south-east to
 
 126 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 n!)v^% ^^^th-east. About 10 a.m. we appeared in view of 
 Bondeh. Bondeh, among the natives of which we seemed to 
 have created a panic ; for the canoes containing the 
 women and children, and household gods, were crossing 
 over to the left bank by scores. Here, for the first 
 time also, we saw a change in the architecture of the 
 buildings. Many tall conical huts— of the candle- 
 extinguisher type — were seen rising high above the 
 well-known low, ridge-roof style adopted along the 
 Congo, since we left the Atlantic. As these circular 
 huts appeared to be only about five feet in diameter, 
 it was at first a question as to what they were 
 adapted for. Bondeh also is a populous village. 
 The left bank at the upper extremity of Bondeh 
 appears crowned with another important villnge called 
 Yambi. 
 
 When this last place appears in sight the river 
 begins another deep curve, which we follow for about 
 two hours and find to be an almost complete semi- 
 circle. 
 
 My compass course tells me that we have been 
 running almost parallel with the Congo, and bearing 
 the south-easterly indication of the native of Yakui. 
 For a -moment, I am half inclined to suspect that the 
 river we are ascending will turn out to be a right 
 branch of the Congo after all. At noon I am anxious 
 to take a correct latitude, and I find we are in N. Lat. 
 0° 59' 0" ! The day previous we were in N. Lat. 
 1° 7' 0". With my preconceptions that this affluent 
 must be the Welle, these revelations serve to confuse
 
 Yam- 
 bumba. 
 
 YAMBUMBA. 127 
 
 me ; and now, with curiosity greatly excited, whatever i883. 
 may be the result, we resolve on continuing the 
 exploration to a definite issue. 
 
 About 2 P.M. appear tlie populous settlements of 
 Yambua and Irungu, consisting of two series of half-a- 
 dozen villages, each grouped together on the right 
 bank, on low rich land cleared out of a dense forest. 
 An hour later, on account of a steady rainfall, we halt 
 and camp on the right bank. 
 
 We start at 6.30 a.m. on the 10th, and at 9 am. the 
 metropolitan town of Yambumba appears, high and 
 dry on a semicircular line of light-coloured bluff, forty 
 feet above the river, with a multitude of steeply conical 
 huts, whose thatch shows grey amid vivid green foliage 
 of fig-trees, and mighty bombax, palmgroves, and 
 bananas. Eight thousand would be a fair estimate of 
 the population of the town. Yet despite their numbers, 
 they did not seem strong-minded enough to be able to 
 resist the impulse to fly, which they did as though the 
 eternal enemy of both black and white men was pur- 
 suing them. At first they appeared inclined to gaze 
 upon us as tranquilly as those of Umaneh had done, 
 and accordingly posed in unconcerned attitudes along 
 the verge of the soft sandstone bluff. But they no 
 sooner heard the strange soughing of the steamers than 
 they took to their heels, their shields clattering on their 
 hips in accompaniment to their quick steps. Human 
 foes they no doubt thought they could cope with ; but 
 against the Ibanza puffing and panting so deeply and 
 so strangely, their onlj recourse was instant flight.
 
 128 . TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. Some hills appeared in the distance, in a north-. 
 
 Nov. 2 
 
 Vam- 
 bumba. 
 
 easterly direction, seeming to lie in a range running 
 north-west and south-east; but our course, after 
 arriving be^'ond the upper horn of the crescent on 
 which Yambumba is situate, still continued easterly. 
 
 The islands gradually disappeared, revealing a clean 
 breadth of about 800 yards between each bank. We 
 observed also that the river was gradually falling. 
 
 A thick mist obscured everything until 9 a.m. on the 
 morning of the 20th, which prevented us from jDro- 
 ceeding on our journey. An hour later appeared a 
 long range of hills on the right bank of the river. 
 From the lower end of this range, in N. Lat. 1° 16', our 
 course led along a curve which brought us at noon to 
 N. Lat. 1° 14'. Four hours later we came in sight of 
 the Eapids. On the left bank were seen a number of 
 villages, all the huts of which seemed to be of the 
 sharp conical form. 
 
 We formed a camp about two miles below the rapids, 
 on the right bank, at the sight of which the natives of 
 the villages across made a terrible racket with their 
 drums. Yumbila was urged to try to start a conversa- 
 tion, the effect of which was that the drumming was 
 silenced, and for nearly an hour the creatures kept 
 bawling across the river one to another puerile informa- 
 tion relating to bananas and goats. Yumbila, always 
 hungry, clamoured to the aborigines to bring food to 
 sell for beads — the natives as loudly denied that they 
 possessed any. 
 
 We went across in the whale-boat next morning to
 
 ya. 
 
 A SHAM FAMINE. 129 
 
 attempt to obtain the goodwill of the natives of Yam- i883. 
 buya ; but, after an hour's effort, we were compelled to yJ^n,,^u 
 desist. They reported they were starving, and they 
 acted the part of famished people admirably. A few 
 of our sailors tlirew some rolls of bread on shore in 
 derisive unbelief of their statement ; but tlie natives, 
 as quick-witted, affected to rush for the bread, and to 
 eat it witli inexpressible satisfaction, at the siime time 
 holding out their hands imploringly for more. A 
 few cowries thrown on shore also caused an eager 
 scrambling; but though they could not be induced to 
 sell goats or food, they were not averse to talk. I 
 fear, that as they were such consummate actors, not 
 much reliance can be placed on any information given 
 to us, since while they gave us numerous names of 
 places, they never mentioned, for instance, tliat their 
 own village was Yambuyn, whereas they declared it to 
 be Ngonde'. The rapids they also called Ruka or 
 Luka, the river Massua, Kiyo, and Ikongo, whereas 
 our frank friends of Vakui, called the river Biyerre. 
 
 Disinclined, because really unable from the vast 
 amount of work to be done yet, and the time con- 
 sumed in navigating such lengths of river water, to 
 pursue investigation among people who so zealously 
 baffled our inquiries, we turned away and rowed up 
 to the rapids. Reaching a point whence I could 
 command full view of them, I concluded that they 
 might be descended easily by men who knew the 
 road. It is one of those rapids that would be simply 
 exhilarating to rush down — there are no treacherous 
 Vol. IL— 9
 
 loO THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. whirlpools, eddies, or Lack-ciirreiits ; it is a steep 
 
 Nov. 21. 
 
 Yambuya. I'olling of a flood over, probably, a clean reef. They 
 are about 450 yards wide, from the deep bend in 
 the right bank to the low point projecting into the 
 stream from the left bank. 
 
 Thus we are halted after an ascent of about ninety- 
 six English miles of the Biyerre. As the confluence of 
 the river with the Congo is in N. Lat. 1° 14', and our 
 camp below the rapids is in N. Lat. 1° 13', our course 
 has been true easterly, notwithstanding the three or 
 four semi-circular bends in the river s run. 
 
 Although all these geographical questions will be 
 presently settled, yet halting from pursuing the search 
 further, I ought to state my reasons for still main- 
 taining the opinion that this river must be the 
 Welle. 
 
 From these rapids, the distance to Ingaima, on the 
 Welle, is about 155 geographical miles in a direct 
 line. The natives of Yankui call the river Biyerre ; 
 the Basoko admitted it also, but stated that only the 
 Upper Aruwimi was called the Biyerre, that is, that 
 portion of it above the rapids. 
 
 The Welle' of Schweinfurth is called by Miani, Ware 
 and Werre' ; another calls it Meri or Bere'. 
 
 It is a large river, 600 yards wide and 25 feet deep — 
 we have traced it east across one degree of longitude. 
 Over the rapids we see that the hill-range which has 
 caused the interruption runs north-west and south- 
 east. The river has been deflected from its course by 
 the hills, and must flow fi'om a north-westerly direction.
 
 IDENTITY OF THE BIYERRE AND WELLE. 131 
 
 Rounding the south-easterly extremity, it runs direct ^^^^• 
 
 Nov. 21. 
 
 west to the Congo. That there are other rapids Yamiuya. 
 up above these may well Le imag'ined ; the great 
 bends we have already passed make it quite possible 
 that there are many more ; and a mere view, such as 
 we had of this curve above the rapids trending north- 
 westerly, has but little value. But a glance at the 
 large semi-circular bend between the confluence of the 
 Nekke with the Welle, and the junction of the Gurba 
 and the Welle, will serve to show that two inverse 
 bends would about connect the Welle, Bere, or Werre of 
 Schweinfurth, Miani, and Junker with the river called 
 Biyerre, vv^hich we have just ascended. The Itimbiri 
 is not large enougli to receive such a river as the 
 Welle' is figured on the maps of its explorers. The 
 Biyerre's great volume must absorb, riot only the 
 Welle, but most probably the Nepoko of Junker. At 
 this season the river Biyerre discharges 150,000 cubic 
 feet of water per second into the Congo. 
 
 Now, Dr. Barth describes the Shari, the liver which 
 many geographers insist upon as receiving the Welle, 
 thus : — ^ 
 
 " I found myself floating on this noble river, which 
 was certainly GOO yards across. On the western shore 
 the river sweeps slowly along, and, in general, appears 
 not to be very deep. In ihe channel the poles of the 
 ferrymen indicated a depth of 15 ^Qiiiy 
 
 If we suppose that this " noble " river, the Shari, to 
 be GOO yards wide, of an uniform depth of 15 feet, 
 and a current of two knots an hour, we only obtain
 
 132 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. G7,000 cubic feet of water per second, and this at a 
 
 Nov, 22. . ., • T ^• p 
 
 hungu. point 810 geographical miles m a direct line from 
 Munza's on tlie Welle'. As Munza's is situated at a 
 place on the Welle which is over 200 geographical 
 miles in a direct line from its source, then we have 
 an Equatorial river with a course of nearly 2000 
 English miles, with only a volume of 67,000 cubic 
 feet of water per second. The Congo, on the other 
 hand, after only ICOO miles of a course, rolls past 
 Nyangwe a volume of 230,000 cubic feet per second. 
 There is such an incomprehensibility in all this, that 
 I can only record my belief that, as the Bij'erre is 
 only 155 geographical miles from the lowest point 
 known on the Welle', and discharges such a volume 
 of water, the basin of the W^lle and the Nepoko must 
 be included within the hydrograjohic area supplying 
 the Biyerre with w^ater. 
 
 At a place just five miles below Yambuya, on 
 returning down river, I made a series of measurements 
 of current velocity, and soundings. The central current 
 flowed at the rate of 1150 feet in five minutes; the 
 greatest depth of water was forty-two feet ; the breadth 
 of river was 580 yards. 
 
 We camped at Irungu and underwent the scarifica- 
 tion of brotherhood. From our new brothers we re- 
 ceived the extraordinary information that the Biyerre 
 after turning to the north-west made another turn 
 southerly and joined the Congo. I pi-esume that this 
 must be the Nepoko affluent of the Biyerre'. 
 
 AtYakuijSO much had our penceful passage up-river
 
 NEWS OF THE ARABS. 133 
 
 impressed the people, that we were enabled to purchase issa. 
 eight days provisions. I heard also sumcient at this yakui. 
 place to prove that there were Arabs from the East 
 Coast on the Congo, but the locality was so vaguely 
 designated that we did not pay much attention to the 
 news. When, however, they learned that after return- 
 ing to Mokulu we intended to visit the Congo in the 
 same manner, they manifested undisguised pleasure 
 for some reason. The Bahunga marauders were sure 
 to " catch it " they thought, if they were overtaken 
 by us. 
 
 A little before noon on the 23rd we halted for a 
 short time at our camp opposite Mokulu. We dis- 
 covered that the Biyerre' had fallen eighteen inches 
 during our absence. We then continued our journey 
 down to the mouth, and, rounding the low forest 
 point dividing the two rivers, we steamed up the 
 miirhtier Cono-o.
 
 IM THE CONGO. 
 
 CHAPTER XXX. 
 
 TO STANLEY FALLS, 
 
 Predatory Bahunga — An odd means for defence — Deserted ■villages — 
 Enormous fiotilla of canoes — Danger ahead — Ravages by the Arabs 
 — " Cruel man has done his worst " — Eemains of burnt villages — A 
 shocking discovery — We overtake the Arab slave-traders — Medita- 
 tions on retribution — Extent of territory ravaged by the Arabs — 
 Their miserable captives — A harrowing scene — Captives all women 
 and children ; their number — The cause of the trade — Yangambi— 
 The Chofu river — -The Wenya fishermen — Cunning policy of the 
 Arabs — Stanley Falls — Description of the cataracts— The district 
 tribes — Their mode of fishing— A dangerous ferry — Drum signals — 
 An industrious people — The fish of the waters — Palavers — ^Our 
 farthest station founded — Binnie is appointed chief, and left in 
 charge — Homeward bound. 
 
 1883. We luive now, while breasting tlie swift ocbreous flood 
 S' ' of the Coniro, a wider view of river rench, and a more 
 
 Iliyerre. o ' ' 
 
 spacious breadtli of stream than we enjoyed between 
 the banks of tbe Biyerre. Denuded of its islets, the 
 Congo revealed itself occasionally, now with a clear 
 view of two and a half miles of open water, broad 
 enougli to absorb a dozen mighty tributaries as large 
 as tlie Biyerre. And yet avc were, at the confluence 
 just passetl, 12GC) English miles from the sea, and 
 021 miles above L'Jopoldville,
 
 FREDATORY BAIIUNGA. 135 
 
 Faithful to our purpose we cling to the right bank, i883. 
 
 Nov. 23, 
 
 which is low, but grand for the forest of massive Biyevrd. 
 trees nourished by its fertile soil. We pass a clearing 
 which was once a market-place. It is not used now, 
 a change having come over the people of the land. 
 There are rumours of predatory Bahunga floating 
 throughout the surrounding districts, and distrust, fear, 
 and suspicion He heavy on men's souls. 
 
 We have discovered that we ourselves are not above 
 suspicion. We may not be related to the fierce kid- 
 nappers who roam about at midnight on the wide 
 waters and pounce upon sleeping aborigines, but w^e 
 wear cloth, and we carry the dreadful hollow tubes 
 which belch thunder and ruin to men. " Yes, go up 
 the Mburra [the Congo] when hollow tubes spit fire at 
 one another — could we but see it, it were o:rand 
 fun ! " So think the natives, while we, utterly igno- 
 rant what strange tribe this is equally matched with 
 ourselves, keep pressing on nearer and nearer to the 
 kidnappers, in admirable bewilderment as to who they 
 may be. 
 
 At four o'clock we pass another market-place, and 
 think of camping, but the people who spring on shore 
 with the hawsers fall down and show bleeding feet, 
 and we discover that the ground has been defended by 
 pins of dried rattan stuck all over the surface, and we 
 are obliged to steam on another hour until a suitable 
 place in the thick forest has been found. 
 
 The next day at 9 a.m. we pass the well-known 
 market-place, where, in 1877, the vendors and buyers
 
 130 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. left the profits and pleasures of marketing to attack 
 Nov. 24. ., ^ . - ^ . , , - - 
 
 Biyerrd. '"^ m impetuous stjle, so little did they expect that the 
 
 descending canoes contained men whose souls had been 
 
 well tried in resisting such attacks. All of us who had 
 
 been present on that occasion rehearsed the scene and 
 
 the events which almost each tree recalled. 
 
 An hour later a fourth market-place was passed, 
 from which the natives had been seen hastening away 
 to an island or islands near the left bank. The dis- 
 tance was so great, and so much haziness from the 
 humid heat obscured the light, that we could not well 
 discern the outline of the opposite shore. 
 
 The land rose in beautiful gentle hills, green with 
 the perpetual springtime, and deeply wooded every- 
 where, but bluify on their river face. Here and 
 there peeped out banana groves, belonging to tiny 
 hamlets occupying the limited clearings. These higher 
 lands belong no doubt to the bluff-browed banks near 
 Yambumba on the Biyerre. 
 
 Looking across to the islands which the Congo again 
 bears within its bosom we fancy we see a movement as 
 of paddles — those bright mirror-like flashes of water we 
 know so well on a calm day, and languidly tracing the 
 islet shores upward, a half-formed suspicion creeps into 
 our minds that the shores themselves are widening. 
 But, examining the curious phenomenon through a 
 binocular, such a number of canoes are seen that they 
 create unpleasant thoughts of imminent strife. Sug- 
 gestions arise of conflicts v^'ith the terrible Bahungu, 
 of running down an entire flotilla of canoes, plunging
 
 ENORMOUS FLOTILLA OF CANOES. 137 
 
 and sprawling madly about with marvellous rapidity 1683. 
 of action, while the sharp crack of breech-loaders sound Biyerrd- 
 clear above the turmoil. What else could such an 
 encounter mean ? Our men are all conscious that 
 there is a large force of people in the neighbour- 
 hood, notwithstanding that the right bank appears 
 silent and uninhabited. 
 
 We cast off the whale-boat, and the En Avant 
 dashes on to obtain a clearer view of this immense 
 flotilla. In ten minutes we can trace a long and 
 thick column of ascending canoes, creeping along under 
 the shadows of the overhano-ins: woods of an island. 
 It may be throe miles in length; it may be less, it may 
 be more, but its length dwarfs all that we have ever 
 seen of flotillas. I estimated the number of canoes at 
 about a thousand. We steamed slowly up, parallel 
 with the column, to the distance of a mile and a half. 
 I presumed that they meditated an attack, and I 
 became lost in conjectures as to the result of a 
 determined charge of such a vast force. If there were 
 an average of five to each canoe that would give a 
 number of 5000 ; enough to overwhelm us, even if they 
 came to the attack with naked hands. 
 
 Discretion is wise in such circumstances as environed 
 us. We had no quarrel with any people, not even 
 with the Bahunga, and our mission could not be 
 prefaced by seeking opportunities for warfare. Argu- 
 ing thus the En Avant returned to her consorts, 
 picked up her boat, and the steam flotilla held on 
 its way.
 
 138 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. At 4.30 a rain-storm halted us. This was the usual 
 
 Nov. 24-. 
 
 Mawembc. eudiDg to sucli a hazj sultry day, and was generally 
 accompanied by vivid lightning, and loud thunder 
 shocks. We had a comfortable camp, however, on a 
 cosy islet, well protected from the tempest that endured 
 the whole night. 
 
 The next morning (the 25th) we continued our 
 journey. Two hours later we saw a break in the solid 
 wall of forest trees along which we had travelled, and 
 I remembered its position very clearly. On my old 
 map it is marked " Mawembe," and was strongly 
 palisaded ; but now, though I looked closely through 
 my glass, I could detect no sign of palisade or hut. The 
 clearing was there, it was true, the site of the palisaded 
 village was also there, and notwithstanding its empti- 
 ness it was recognised. As we advanced we could see 
 poor remnants of banana groves ; we couLl also trace 
 the whitened paths from the river's edge leading up 
 the steep bank, but not a house nor a living thing 
 could be seen anywhere. Tlie exact extent, position, 
 and nature of the village site was unchanged, but the 
 close, bristling palisade, and the cones of fowl-huts, 
 and the low ridge-roofed huts just visible above it — all 
 had vanished. 
 
 When we came abreast of tlie locality, we perceived 
 that there had been a late fire. The heat had scorched 
 the foliage of the tallest trees, and their silver stems 
 had been browned by it. The banana plants looked 
 meagre ; their ragged fronds waved mournfully their 
 tatters, as if imploring pity. We slackened the speed
 
 TBACES OF RAPINE, 139 
 
 of the engines, to contemplate the scene and reflect isss. 
 
 Nov. 25. 
 
 upon its meaning. Mawcmbd 
 
 Six years before we had rushed by this very place 
 without stopping, endeavouring by our haste to thwart 
 the intentions of our foes — if foes they meant to be — 
 since which time the history of this land had been a 
 blank to us. Surely there had been a great change ! 
 As we moved up the stream slowly, another singular 
 sight attracted our gaze. This was two or three long 
 canoes standing on their ends, like split hollow columns, 
 upright on the verge of the bank. What freak was 
 this, and what did the sight signify ? Had one of 
 these canoes been weighed, it is certain it could not 
 have been less than a ton. To have tilted and raised 
 such a weight argued numbers and union. It could 
 never have been the work of a herd of chattering 
 savages. As they stand, they are a tacit revelation 
 of the effect of energy and cohesion; they signify a 
 union of men — and union is force! They are Arabs 
 who have performed this feat of strength, and these 
 upright columnar canoes betray the advent of the slave- 
 traders in the region below the Falls ! We learned 
 later that on this now desolate spot once stood the 
 town of YombuiTi. 
 
 A few miles higher up on the same bank we 
 Cvame abreast of another scene of desolation, wliere a 
 whole town had been burnt, the palms cut down, 
 bananas scorched, many acres laid level with the 
 ground, and the freak of standing canoes on end 
 repeated. In front of the black ruin there were a
 
 140 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883 couple of linndred people crouched down on the 
 
 Nov. 25. 
 
 rombuni ^crgc of the bank, looking wofully foHorn und cheer- 
 less, some with their hands supporting their chins, 
 regarding us with a stupid indifference, as though 
 they w^ere heyond further harm, while all seemed to 
 say by their attitude, " Cruel man has done his worst. 
 Having lost all, we are beyond your spite, and greater 
 wretchedness than that which we are now in is impos- 
 sible. How can it profit you to harm us ? " 
 
 Our guide, Yumbila, was told to question them as to 
 what was the cause of this dismal scene, and one old 
 man stood out and poured forth his tale of grief and 
 woe with an exceeding volubih'ty. He told of a sudden 
 and unexpected invasion of their vihage, by a host of 
 leaping, yelling men, in the darkness, who dinned 
 their ears with murderous fusilades, slaughtering 
 their people as they sprang out of their burning huts 
 into the light of the flames. Not a third of the men 
 had escaped ; the larger number of the women and 
 children had been captured and taken away, they knew 
 not whither. 
 
 " And where are these people ? " we asked. 
 " They are gone up-river, about eight days ago." 
 "And have these people burnt up all the villages?" 
 " All ; everywhere, on both sides of tlie river." 
 "What are they like, these strange people?" 
 " They are like your people in your boats, and wear 
 white clothes." 
 
 " Ah ! And who are all those people we saw yester- 
 day in hundreds of canoes near the islands ? "
 
 BURNT VILLAGES. 141 
 
 "They are our people, from our side and from the }^^h 
 other, who have gathered together for protection. At ^'^mi'"''"'- 
 niglit they go to their fields to get food, Lut in the 
 daytime they live on the islands, with their canoes 
 ready, lest the wicked and fierce people come back. 
 But go away, go away ; strangers are all bad. 
 Go to them if you want ivory ; go and fight 
 them. We have nothing — nothing." And the old 
 man's gesture, with open palms, was painfully ex- 
 pressive. 
 
 We continued on our journey, advancing as rapidly 
 as our steamers could breast the stream. Every three 
 or four miles we came in sight of the black traces of 
 the destroyers. The charred stakes, upright canoes, 
 poles of once populous settlements, scorched banana 
 groves, and prostrate palms, all betokened ruthless 
 ruin. 
 
 At 4 P.M. we halted at a camp in a plain just above 
 the devastated site of Yavunga. We had passed, since 
 leaving the Biyerre, twelve villages utterly consumed 
 by fire. In these eight separate communities had 
 existed. 
 
 Opposite Yavunga, on the left baidc, is the district 
 of Yaporo. Surveying the scene through the bino- 
 cular fflass we could assure ourselves that the tale of 
 
 o 
 
 the old man was not exaggerated. Not one house 
 was visible, although the extensive clearing indicated 
 that Yaporo had been populous. This would have been 
 evident even had I not remembered, by the peculiar 
 red clay banks, which is such a feature of it, that I
 
 142 THE CONGO. 
 
 18S3. had seen a large and long-extended town here. Jnst 
 
 vomburri. above, I also remembered, we Jiad had a tough fight 
 
 with the people, who had cried " Ya Mariwa " as 
 
 they charged on lis, and there was the Tugarambusa 
 
 ridge, its outUnes not to be mistaken. 
 
 On the morning of the 27th of November we Yv^ere 
 delayed by a scantiness of fuel, due to the extent of the 
 clearing, so that departure was not possible until after 
 7 o'clock. A mile above our camp we detected some 
 object, of a slaty colour, floating down stream. The 
 En Avant steamed towards it, and the man with the 
 sounding-pole at the bow, on arriving near it, turned 
 it over with a boat-hook. We were shocked to discover 
 the bodies of two ^vomen bound together with cord! 
 This tragedy, by the appearance of the bodies, must 
 have occurred about twelve hours previously. 
 
 Wondering what could have caused the committal of 
 such a crime, we continued to follow the shore, wdiere 
 the current was slack, until w^e came to the upper end 
 of the crescent bend, which is above Yavunga. At 
 the close of an hour we were rounding the point, 
 when looking up river hastily, we saw a white mass 
 fronting the landing-place of a village. I caught up 
 my glass and examined it. Others appeared in a 
 group, as we edged towards the centre of the stream. 
 They were tents ; the Arabs of Nyangwe had been 
 overtaken ! 
 
 They were evidently in force, for their camp, or 
 village, was evidently largo enough for a great number, 
 and a rough palisade seemed to surround it. We
 
 OVERTAKING THE ARABS. 143 
 
 formed ourselves in line and advanced np-river. As isss. 
 
 Nov. 27. 
 
 we drew near I observed tbrougli the telescope that vombuni. 
 our presence excited a commotion on tlie banks, wliicli 
 became lined witli a multitude of men in white dress 
 who acted as if flurried. I also saw a large number of 
 canoes fastened to tlie landing-place, whicb revealed at 
 once tbe secret of thesa sudden midnight surprisals. 
 These people had in some manner descended the river 
 i'rom Nyangwe' past the Falls. 
 
 I felt conscious for a sbort period of an internal 
 struggle against an impulse, which was almost over- 
 powering, to avenge these devastations and massacres 
 of sleeping people. The picture of those houseless 
 people of Yomburri, the eloquent but most pitiful 
 tale of the old man, the corpses of tbe two women 
 bound together, which seemed to suggest a cold-blooded 
 deliberate murder — all appealed to me for immediate 
 and complete vengeance. And yet — who am I that I 
 should take the law into my hands and mete out retri- 
 bution ? The devilish deeds are already accomplished 
 — the embers of the burnt houses are cold, the blood 
 shed has long ago been dried. Then, again, came the 
 thought that the captives were still in bondage; the 
 tears of these are still flowing, their sorrow is even yet 
 fresh. And this naked land, raided, and devastated in 
 this cruel fashion, of what possible use would it be when 
 emptied of its people ? But it was useless for me to 
 repeat to myself such forcible reasons for revenging 
 these wholesale outrages. I had not the slightest shadow 
 of authority to vindicate the dictates of justice. I
 
 144 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. represented no constituted government, nor had I tlie 
 
 Nov. 27. 
 
 v^omburii. shadow of authority to assume the role of censor, judge 
 and executioner. Both parties were my friends, at 
 least I hoped so ; one party, being stronger, by force 
 and fraud has almost exterminated the other, but 
 without a commission I may not interfere. Had I 
 appeared on the scene while one of these many 
 tragedies was being enacted I might — so conta- 
 gious is the effect of strife — have assisted the weaker 
 party. 
 
 After the usual discharge of blank cartridges from 
 the boats, announcing an arrival, followed by re- 
 sponsive salvoes from the shore, a canoe put out 
 from the bank, and hailed us in Swaliili, the lan- 
 guage of the oriental coast, to which we replied in 
 terms of peace. 
 
 We formed a camp below them, and almost imme- 
 diately after we had secured our boats, our Zanzibaris 
 were shaking hands with the Manyema slaves of Abed 
 bin Salim, who had invaded and ravaged the country 
 to obtain slaves and ivory for their master. 
 
 We discovered that this horde of banditti — for in 
 reality and without disguise they were nothing else — 
 was under the leadership of several chiefs^ but prin- 
 cipally under Karema and Kiburuga. They had started 
 sixteen months previously from Wane-Kirundu, about 
 thirty miles below Yinya Njara. For eleven months 
 the band had been raiding successfully between the 
 Con"-o and the Lubiranzi, on the left bank. They 
 had then undertaken to perform the same cruel work
 
 THE ARAB CAMP. 145 
 
 between the Biverre and Wane-Kirundu. On looking i883. 
 at my map 1 nnd that such a territory witliin the YomiuirL 
 area described would cover superficially 1G,200 square 
 geographical miles on the left bank, and 10,500 miles 
 on the right bank, all of which in statute mileage 
 would be equal to .'M,570 square miles — just 2000 
 square miles greater than the island of Ireland — 
 inhabited by about 1,000,000 people. 
 
 The band when it set out from Kirnndu numbered 
 300 fifrhtinjr men armed with flint-locks, double-barreled 
 percussion guns, and a few breech-loaders ; their fol- 
 lowers, or doftiestic slaves and women, doubled this 
 force. 
 
 After spending the morning listening to such of 
 their adventures as they chose to relate, I was per- 
 mitted in the afternoon to see the human harvest 
 they had gathered, as many of my people had exag- 
 gerated the numbers of the captives they had seen 
 in the camp. 
 
 Their quarters were about 150 yards above the plac3 
 we had selected. It was surrounded with a fence made 
 of the hut w^alls of the native town ofYangambi, which 
 lay without in ruins ; the square plats of raised and 
 tamped earth with a few uprights alone indicating 
 where it stood. The banana groves had been levelled, 
 and their stalks employed to foim the fence around 
 about their camp. 
 
 Within the enclosure was a series of low sheds, 
 extending many lines deep from the immediate edge 
 of the clay bank inland, 100 yards; in length the 
 Vol. II.— 10
 
 146 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. camp was about 300 yards. At the landing-place 
 
 Nov. 27. 
 
 Yomburri. below Were fifty-four large canoes, varying in carrying 
 capacity. Each might convey from 10 to 100 people. 
 The first general impressions are that the camp is 
 much too densely peopled for comfort. There are rows 
 upon rows of dark nakedness, relieved here and there 
 by the white dresses of the captors. There are lines or 
 groujos of naked forms upright, standing, or moving 
 about listlessly ; naked bodies are stretched under tlie 
 sheds in all positions ; naked legs innumerable are 
 seen in the perspective of prostrate sleepers ; there are 
 countless naked children, many mere infants, forms of 
 boyhood and girlhood, and occasionally a drove of abso- 
 lutely naked old women bending under a basket of fuel, 
 or cassava tubers, or bananas, who are driven through 
 the moving groups by two or three musketeers. On 
 paying more attention to details, I observe that mostly 
 all are fettered ; youths with iron rings around their 
 necks, through wln'ch a chain, like one of our boat- 
 anchor chains, is rove, securing the captives by 
 twenties. The children over ten are secured by three 
 copper rings, each ringed leg brought together by 
 the central ring, which accounts for the apparent 
 listlessness of movement I observed on first coming 
 in presence of the curious scene. The mothers are 
 secured by shorter chains, around whom their re- 
 spective progeny of infants are grouped, hiding the 
 cruel iron links tliat fall in loops or festoons over 
 their mammas' breasts. Tliere is not one adult man- 
 captive amongst them.
 
 A n ARROWING SCENE. 147 
 
 Besides the shaded ground strewn over so thickly iss.x 
 
 • 1 1 T /» • ^ov. 27. 
 
 by the prostrate and upright bodies of captives, Yomijurr 
 the rehcs of the many raids lie scattered or heaped 
 up in profusion everywhere, and there is scarcely a 
 square foot of ground not littered with something, 
 such as drums, spears, swords, assegais, arrows, bows, 
 knives, iron-ware of native make of every pattern, 
 paddles innumerable, scoops and balers, wooden troughs, 
 ivory horns, whistles, buffalo and antelope-horns, ivory 
 pestles, wooden idols, beads of wood, berries, scraps of 
 fetishism, sorcerers' wardrobes, gourds of all sizes, 
 nets, from the lengthy seine to the small hand-net; 
 baskets, hampers, shields as large as doors (of wood, or 
 of plaited rattan), crockery, large pots to hold eight 
 gallons, down to the child's basin ; wooden mugs, basins, 
 and mallets; grass clotli in shreds, tatters, and pieces; 
 broken canoes, and others half excavated ; native adzes, 
 hatchets, hammers, iron rods, &c., &c. All these lit- 
 tering the ground, or in stacks and heaps, with piles 
 of banana and cassava peelings, flour of cassava, and 
 Sliced tubers drying, make up a number of untidy 
 pictures and details, through all of which, however, 
 pioir. i.ently gleam the eyes of the captives, in a state 
 of utter and supreme wretchedness. 
 
 Little perhaps as my face betrayed my feelings, 
 other pictures would crowd upon the imagination ; and 
 after realising the extent and depth of the misery pre- 
 sented to me, I walked about as in a kind of dream, 
 wherein I saw through the darkness of the night the 
 stealthy forms of the murderers creeping towards the
 
 148 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883: doomed town, its inmates all asleep, and no sounds 
 
 Xov. 27. ^ ^ ^ 
 
 Touiburri. issuiDg froHi the glooiTi but the drowsy hum of chirp- 
 ing cicadas or distant frogs — when suddenly flash the 
 light of brandished torches ; the sleeping town is in- 
 volved in flames, while volleys of musketry lay low 
 the frightened and astonished people, sending many 
 through a short minute of agony to that soundless 
 sleep from which there will be no waking. I wished 
 to be alone somewhere where I could reflect upon 
 the doom which has overtaken Bandu, Yomburri, 
 Yangambi, Yaporo, Yakusu, Ukanga, Yakonde, Ituka, 
 Yaryembi, Yaruche, populous Isangi, and probably 
 thirty scores of other villages and towns. 
 
 The slave-traders admit they have only 2300 captives 
 in this fold, yet they have raided through the length 
 and breadth of a country larger than Ireland, bearing 
 fire and spreading carnage with lead and iron. Both 
 banks of tlie river show that 118 villages, and forty- 
 three districts have been devastated, out of which is 
 only educed this scant profit of 2300 females and 
 children, and about 2000 tusks of ivory ! The spears, 
 swords, bows, and the quivers of arrows, show that 
 many adults have fallen. Given that these 118 vil- 
 lages were peopled only 1)y 1000 each, we have only 
 a profit of 2 per cent.; and by the time all these 
 captives have been subjected to the accidents of the 
 river voyage to Kirundu and Nyangwe', of camp life 
 and its harsh miseries, to the havoc of small-pox, and 
 the pests which miseries breed, there will only remain 
 p. scant 1 per cent, upon the bloody venture.
 
 SLAVE TRADING. Ill) 
 
 They tell nie, however, that the convoys already issx 
 arrived at Nyangwe' with slaves captured in the interior Yomburri. 
 have been as great as their present Land. Five ex- 
 peditions have come and gone with their booty of 
 ivory and slaves, and these five expeditions have now 
 completely weeded the large territory described above. 
 If each expedition has been as successful as this, 
 the slave-traders have been enabled to obtain 5000 
 women and children safe to Nyangwe, Kirundu, and 
 Yibondo, above the Stanley Falls. Thus 5000 out of 
 an assumed million will be at the rate of a-half per 
 cent., or five slaves out of 1000 people. 
 
 This is poor profit, out of such large waste of life, for 
 originally we assume the slaves to have mustered about 
 10,000 in number. To obtain the 2300 slaves out of 
 the 118 villages, they must liave shot a round number 
 of 2500 people, while 1300 more died by the wayside, 
 through scant provisions and the intensity of their 
 hopeless wretchedness. How many are wounded and 
 die in the forest, or droop to death through an over- 
 whelming sense of their calamities, we do not know, 
 but if the above figures are trustworthy, then the out- 
 come from the territory with its million of souls is 
 5000 slaves, obtained at the cruel expense of 33,000 
 lives ! And such slaves ! They are females, or young- 
 children who cannot run away, or who with youthful 
 indifference will soon forget the terrors of their cap- 
 ture ! Yet each of the very smallest infants has cost 
 the life of a fiuher and perhaps his three stout brothers 
 and three grown-up daughters. An entire family of
 
 150 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. six souls Lave been done to death to obtain that small, 
 
 Nor. 27, 
 
 yombuni. feeble, useless child ! 
 
 These are my thoughts as I look upon the horrible 
 scene. Every second during which I regard them the 
 clink of fetters and chains strikes upon my ears. My 
 eyes ca'tch sight of that continual lifting of the hand to 
 ease the neck in the collar, or as it displays a manacle 
 exposed through a muscle being irritated by its weight, 
 or want of fitness. My nerves are offended with the 
 rancid effluvium of the unAvashed herds within this 
 human kennel. The smell of other abominations annoy 
 me in that vitiated atmosphere. For how could poor 
 people, bound and riveted together by twenties, do 
 otherwise than wallow in filth ! Only the old women 
 are taken out to forage ; they dig out the cassava 
 tuber, and search for the banana, while the guard, 
 with musket ready, keenly Avatches for the coming of 
 the vengeful native. Not much food can be procured 
 in this manner, and what is obtained is flung down in 
 a heap before each gang, to at once cause an imseemly 
 scramble. Many of these poor things have been already 
 months fettered in this manner, and their bones stand 
 out in bold relief in the attenuated skin, which hangs 
 down in thin wrinkles and puckers. And yet, who 
 can withstand the feeling of pity so powerfully pleaded 
 for by those large eyes and sunken cheeks ? 
 
 What was the cause of all this vast sacrifice of 
 human life, of all this unspeakable misery ? Nothing, 
 but the indulgence of an old Arab's *' wolfish, bloody, 
 starved, and ravenous instincts." Ho wished to ob-
 
 THE CAUSE OF THE SLAVE TRADE. 151 
 
 tain blaves to barter profitably away to other Arabs, isss. 
 and having weapons — guns and gunpowder — enough, Yombuni 
 lie placed them in the hands of three hundred slaves, 
 and despatched them to conunit murder wholesale, just 
 as an Enghsh nobleman would put guns in the hands 
 of his guests, and permit them to slaughter the game 
 upon his estate. If we calculate three quarts of blood 
 to each person who fell during the campaign of murder, 
 we find that this one Arab caused to be shed 2850 
 gallons of human blood, sufficient to fill a tank measure- 
 ment of 460 cubic feet, quite large enough to have 
 drowned him and all his kin ! 
 
 I now understood why the Basoko of the Biyerre' 
 were so gleeful when they heard we were about to ascend 
 the Congo. Their talk about the Bahunga was that 
 of people bewildered by the suddenness of the attack 
 upon them, who seized upon the first name uttered to 
 them. They hoped, of course, that we would mutually 
 destroy one another, and thus they would be relieved 
 from their fears. 
 
 We exchanged gifts with Karema and his blood- 
 stained confederates. We also obtained guides from 
 them to speak for us to the people at the Falls, and 
 being in a hurry to leave such dreadful scenes, we 
 departed next morning, the 28th, for the cataract. 
 
 Yangambi, which we said was occupied by the Arab 
 slave-traders, is beautifully situated on a level terrace, 
 at the foot of the Tugurambusa ridge, which runs 
 parallel with the Congo for a length of eight miles. 
 The summits of the ridiro, which are at an altitude of
 
 152 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. perhaps two hundred feet above the river, appear to 
 
 Nor. 28. . f, , 
 
 Vangambi. offer a cliarming field for European agriculturists. The 
 slopes are delightfully fresh and green, and where the 
 red bluffs rise, they are overhung by verdant masses 
 of shrubbery. The left bank opposite is a flat and 
 level land, with far extended clearings ; it is a land 
 for sugar cane, cotton, rice, maize, and millet. The 
 right bank above the ridge is a land for wheat, being 
 at a dry and healthy altitude. 
 
 A few miles above the red sandstone cliffs of Tugar- 
 ambusa are Itukn, Yaruche, and Yaryembi, or rather 
 were, for at this time mere relics of settlements were 
 ghown. And yet I remember well their rampant 
 multitudes on the banks and in the canoe flotillas 
 worrying our force in 1877 with the courage of yelping 
 terriers. Both banks were now empty of their peoples, 
 they were abandoned to the silence of absolute solitude. 
 
 Soon after rounding the point of Yaryembi, we 
 view before us a straight twelve-mile reach. On the 
 right bank there are three abandoned settlements, and 
 on the left there are five, mere empty clearings. The 
 river varies from 800 to 1600 yards wide, with a strong 
 but steady current. The banks are nearly uniform, 
 from ten to thirty feet high, woods alternating with 
 open sites of towns. 
 
 Yarukombe' on the right, and a similar town of the 
 same name on the left, stood once at the upper end of 
 the reach. 
 
 On the 30th of November our course from 8 a.m. to 
 1 P.M. was along the right bank in a channel caused
 
 jsanga. 
 
 THE a II OF U IIIVEIL 153 
 
 by the large and fertile island called Busariga, which i883. 
 I remember to have been occupied by a tribe of the u^, 
 Yakusu. Now, however, not one hut is seen. Even 
 tlie clearino;s where the huts stood can scarcely be 
 found. All the villages on the mainland have been 
 utterly destroyed, and there is not one native of a 
 powerful tribe to tell the tale of the massacres. 
 
 At 2 P.M. we arrived at the twin-mouthed river 
 Chofu, each channel having a breadth of about 200 
 yards, divided by an island whose base line is three 
 miles long. 
 
 My guide, who has been up the river marauding, 
 states that it is navigable for about twenty-five miles, 
 when a confluence of two branches is seen, both in- 
 terrupted by rapids. The left branch is called the 
 Lukebu ; the right branch being the Lindi. The 
 Wenya procure their large canoes from this river in 
 exchange for heaps of cured fish. 
 
 It rained abundantly on the evening of the 30th, but 
 about 8 A.M. on the 1st of December the skies cleared, 
 and we were enabled to continue our voynge. 
 
 We steamed up for about four miles along the right 
 bank, when we struck ncross the river to the left bank, 
 barely avoiding a small rnpid. We held on until noon, 
 when we were abreast of a small island in X. Lat. 0° 30'. 
 We were advised to cling close to the left bank as far 
 as the point nearest the Falls, to avoid frightening 
 the people with the sight of such a flotilla. Arriving 
 below this point, we detache 1 the whale-boat, and sent 
 it up with tlie guide and one of my servants to speak
 
 154 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. to the natives. By tin's inetliod we succeeded in getting 
 
 Dec. 1. 
 
 Stanley toucli of the Wcnja fishermen, who sent down a few 
 men in two canoes to speak to us. An hour's conver- 
 sation ended with an invitation to us to approach tlieir 
 village. 
 
 Steaming round the point, the lower rapids of the 
 Falls came into view. We were unable to contend 
 against the current. We therefore tied up alongside 
 of the left bank, two miles below the village, until we 
 could come to an understanding with the assembled 
 W^enya chiefs respecting a settlement. 
 
 With cunning policy the Arabs in their descent of 
 the Falls, left the Wenya in undisturbed possession of 
 their islands. Even since 1878, after the return of 
 Tipper Tib to Nyangwe from escorting me to Yinya 
 Njara, they made their approaches slowly towards the 
 Falls. Thus they had obtained access to a large island 
 between the Falls, from which, by dint of the exhibition 
 of power coupled with an affectation of leniency — 
 even friendship — towards those who were willing to 
 submit to their impositions, they had succeeded in at 
 last securing the co-operation of the Wenya fishermen. 
 By this means they could descend from Nyangwe' to 
 the Upper Falls, and surrendering their canoes into 
 the hands of the Baswa tribe^ they could march over- 
 land to Asama Creek, while tlie Baswa fishermen, 
 through their intimate knowledge of the channels, 
 floated the canoes safely down. Thence embarkitig, 
 the Arabs descended from the fifth cataract to the sixth, 
 while tho Wane Rukura fishermen floated the canoes
 
 WENYA FISHERMEN. Iij5 
 
 safely past their cataract. Here the Arabs nilg'ht i883. 
 
 Dec. 1. 
 
 safely embark for the seventh cataract of the Stanley Stanley 
 Falls, whereat the Wenya fishermen stood ready to 
 navigate them safely through the channels to the head 
 of the navigation leading to the Stanley Pool. On 
 their return with their forcibly acquired booty, a few 
 slaves which they were glad to be rid of sufficed to 
 pay the Wenya, Wane Rukurn, and Baswa tribes for 
 their trouble of passing their flotilla up in safety to 
 the quiet river leading to Nyangwe'. 
 
 Stanley Falls consists of seven distinct cataracts 
 extended along a curving stretch of fifty-six statute 
 miles in length. 
 
 At N. Lat. 0° 28' 30", E. Long. 25° 24', we find the 
 seventh cataract, which, with its smaller rapids, inter- 
 rupts navigation for two miles. Above this fall there 
 is a navigable stretch of twenty-six miles, wdience the 
 sixth cataract is reached. This latter cataract, on the 
 left side, presents an absolutely impassable fall; but 
 on the right it partakes of the character of rapids, which 
 at certain times of the year would offer few more 
 difficulties that vigorous rowing would not surmount. 
 From the sixth to the fifth cataract is another twenty- 
 two mile stretch of easily navigable water with a 
 gentle current. The fifth, fourth, third, second, and 
 first cataracts, are so close together that we only 
 reckon them by the number of distinct waterfalls. 
 Nine miles' journey overland will enable us to pass 
 ihem all. But judging from the number of times that 
 the Baswa tribe have passed Arab canoe flotillas do\vu-
 
 156 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. wards and upwards in safety, it is evident that there 
 
 t>ec. 1. ^ . , . , 
 
 Stanley ^-i'^ channels on the right bank which render the 
 
 passage feasible and even free of danger. They are 
 likely to be of the nature of Nile rapids on the right 
 side ; but on the extreme left the cataracts are de- 
 cidedly impassable. 
 
 At the seventh cataract there are four channels. 
 Beginning from the right bank there is a fordable 
 channel about thirty yards wide, which, at low water, 
 is the leakage between a ridge of loose rocks forming 
 a dam-like barrier at the upper end. The channel runs 
 for three miles between the right bank inhabited by the 
 Bakumu, and an island occupied by the Wenya tribe 
 called Wane' Rusari, or sons of Rusari. Beyond the 
 island, which is a quarter of a mile broad, is the main 
 right branch of the cataract, about 500 yards wide, 
 which is separated from the main left branch, 300 yards 
 wide, by a rocky islet occupying the centre. Below 
 the foot of the falls of the main left channel is a 
 rocky isle inhabited by the Wane Mikunga tribe of 
 the Wenya, separated from the mainland on the left 
 bank by a rough channel about twenty yards wide. 
 From the right to the left bank at the cataract the 
 width, across islands and water, is about 1330 yards. 
 Between the two inhabited islands, Wane Rusari and 
 Wane Mikunga, the two main channels unite their 
 waters, and rush with inconceivable rapidity through a 
 narrowed channel of perhaps 450 yards, to be diffused 
 below over low reefs and rocky hollows covering a 
 breadth of 1200 vards. Two miles below the island
 
 i iil I 
 
 I ill!;; 
 
 ''i'^i''i'^i''i'''i''i'''''^''i''i*''''ii'i»^
 
 Falls 
 
 CURIOUS METHOD OF FISHING. 157 
 
 of Wane Mikimga navigation is interrupted by rock i'<«-'5. 
 shoals and little rapids. On the right navigation may Stanley 
 be continued either up the creek between Wane Rusari 
 and the mainland for a mile higher, or up the main 
 river to a point nearly opposite tlie lov/er end of Wane' 
 Mikunga. 
 
 About a thousand yards above the cataract begins 
 the islands occupied by the tribe of Wane Sironga, 
 commanded by the chiefs Lumami and Yanzi. 
 
 The three tribes number about 4000 people — 1500 
 on the isle of Wane Rusari ; 1000 at Wane Mikunga ; 
 and 1500 on the islands of Wane Sironga. At the present 
 time they are rapidly on the increase, receiving acces- 
 sions to their numbers from the persecuted Yakusu. 
 
 These people are all devoted to fishing. Tlie two 
 main channels are almost bridged at the Falls. At 
 very low water they plant poles between the rocks, 
 and by lashing cross poles, and propping up the up- 
 rights, they have secured access towards the centre 
 of the raging waters. With cables of rattan they lash 
 their baskets into which the fish are swept, and each 
 day these are visited by the daring fishermen. The 
 little island in the centre is reached in large broad 
 canoes cut out of the cottonwood from below. It is 
 an exciting sight to see forty stout fellows paddle one 
 of these through the waves, heedless of the boiling and 
 dangerous waters. They advance along the left bank, 
 and then by desperate strokes they edge diagonally 
 across the stream ; the water above the fall being 
 level with their heads. Thev miss the island as often
 
 158 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. as they reach it. If they are unsuccessful, they are 
 
 Dec. 1. 
 
 Stanley swept dowH the uuited channel, which is a stretch of 
 roaring water, at " express " speed, to try again the 
 dangerous course. But if they can only succeed in hold- 
 ing their own, by dint of united straining and tearing 
 at the water, they will touch the lee of the island, and 
 a few more rapid strokes will bring them to the shore 
 and to their nets. If the nets are full, the fishermen 
 send up a loud wailing shout, which is gladly echoed by 
 the people on the isles, who have gathered eacli day 
 to watch the daring venture. Disasters are frequent ; 
 the most common being when the canoe has been 
 badly steered, and presenting too much beam to the 
 current, it is soon capsized among the leaping and 
 rolling waves. The people for whose profit they labour, 
 tlieir relatives, and their comrades, who have been 
 regarding them from the rocks then with united voices 
 warn all the isles with the news of tlie disaster, and 
 dozens of canoes shoot from either side to the re.scue. 
 
 They think nothing of crossing the raging waters 
 between the islands from Wane' Mikunga to Wane 
 Rusari. The feat is performed every few minutes by 
 men, women, and children. Such a ferry was never 
 seen. From a little distance off the river, so rapid is 
 the movement, so steep the slope, that one might say 
 that the voyagers were skating down an ice-covered 
 hill. 
 
 The islanders have not yet adopted electric signals, 
 but possess, however, a system of communication quite 
 as effective. Tlieir huge drums, by being struck in
 
 A DANGEItOUB FEllRY. 159 
 
 different parts, convey language as clear to the initiated i883. 
 as vocal speech ; and all the isles and every soul on Stanley 
 them is told what transpires on each island hourly. 
 
 In appearance the AVenya, Yakusu, and Baknmu 
 bear a strong resemblance to the Basoko, though the 
 Bakunni are slightly lighter in complexion. 
 
 The Wenya do not cultivate the ground. Their 
 wealth consists solely of fish. Perhaps the average 
 daily catch may be a thousand of from five pounds to 
 half a cwt. in weight, not including the spoils taken by 
 the little boys in the smaller channels, and at insignifi- 
 cant rapids below. Besides what is consumed daily as 
 meat, and what is bartered with the Bakumu for their 
 vegetables, the Wenya have large stores of smoke-cured 
 fish with which they purchase women, child slaves, 
 canoes, and weapons from the Yakusu and the tribes 
 of the Chofu. 
 
 These fisher tribes are, of course, impregnably 
 situated so far as regards their security against the 
 hostility of their neighbours. The Yakusu of the 
 quiet river below, or the Bakumu of the mid-cataract 
 section, would shrink from venturing near the isles 
 of the Wenya, protected as they are on almost all 
 sides by the surrounding dangerous waters. 
 
 They are an industrious and an inventive people. In 
 the streets of their villages the fish curers attend their 
 lines of curing-platforms; the old men are weaving 
 purse nets and sieves ; the able-bodied men are at 
 basket-work ; wdiile others weave rattan hawsers. The 
 women are preparing bread, grinding camwood, sifting
 
 160 . THE CONGO. 
 
 1S83. meal, pounding corn, or making crockery. On the 
 
 Dec. 1. , 
 
 Stanley watcrside are the canoe-wrights doing odd jobs — 
 binding a split bow, a split stern, or a leaky crack, 
 or perhaps cutting out a decayed part and preparing 
 a piece of plank to replace it. 
 
 These are the people with whom we proposed to 
 negotiate for partnership in the proprietory rights over 
 the mainland and the isles of the seventh cataract. 
 With the Arabs for our friends, it was clear there 
 would be no dissentients, since both Arabs and abori- 
 gines perceived possible benefits. Our settlement at 
 the Falls would enable the half-castes of Nyangwe' to 
 obtain cloth to wear at a much cheaper rate than they 
 could obtain it from the East Coast, and the same might 
 be said of various trifles, such as knives, powder, beads, 
 wire, broadcloth, cottons, tools, thread and needles. 
 Medicines might be j)urchased from our establishment 
 at the Falls; while the native chiefs might, by monthly 
 subsidies of cloth, receive considerable additions to their 
 hard-earned wealth, and the tribe itself be rendered 
 much more presentable as cloth-wearing people than 
 they are in their unqualified nudity. 
 
 On the 2nd we cut a path along the right bank 
 through the jungle, and crossed over to the island of 
 Wane Mikunga. The chiefs of the tribes were all met 
 according to a notice which had been given. They 
 first of all gave us a large present of bearded 
 Silurus, catfish, and a species of the jDike. Among 
 the pile there was the well-known scaleless Singa 
 of the Tanganika, and scale fish of the size of
 
 A VIOLENT CONFERENCE. 161 
 
 mackerel, wliicli we found to be afterwards wholesome is83. 
 
 , , Dec. 2. 
 
 and sweet. ^^^^^ 
 
 Our palaver was tlien opened. In brief, we asked to ^'"'^""g''^- 
 be allowed to stay with them and build a town, and to 
 live in peace with them as their friends and protectors. 
 This exposition of our purpose elicited a lively response. 
 A speaker stood up, and listening- to the words in 
 short sentences from our guides, he seemed to be 
 mechanically repeating them, while the others main- 
 tained a profound silence until the speaker ended, 
 when all at once a furious hubbub commenced. One 
 might have imagined they were about to fling them- 
 selves upon one another, so violent were they in 
 gesture, and so rapid and voluble in speech. This 
 fury subsiding, one after another got up and expounded 
 his views on the matter. If he spoke well and to 
 the point, they who considered his words pertinent 
 and sensible got up and arranged his grass-cloth that 
 covered his rear parts ; those who dissented poured 
 forth a torrent of what we supposed were vituperations. 
 This continued until they exhausted themselves, when 
 the palaver was adjourned until the next day at the 
 same hour. 
 
 Late in the day a messenger from the guide came 
 to inform me that it was very likely an agreement 
 would be arrived at the next day, and that I might 
 prepare the goods and have them ready. They con- 
 sisted of beads, knives, mirrors, cloth, wire, &c. 
 
 On the 3rd there were some more violent language 
 and furious colloquial torrents, which gradually sub- 
 sided into decent and tranquil manners. A price was 
 A^OL. II.— 11
 
 162 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. agreed upon, by whicli full lordship over the isles and 
 ^^■^^' the left mainland was ceded, with proprietory rights 
 ^"^"'- to all unoccupied territory. As the lands were common 
 property belonging to the tribe, over £160 worth of 
 goods were placed upon the ground to be distributed 
 by the chiefs themselves, according to rank and power, 
 which I need not say occasioned many bursts of wordy 
 violence. 
 
 Meantime, in the intervals of these palavers, I had 
 explored, in the whale-boat, both shores, and my choice 
 rested on the isle of Wane Rusari for the station. I 
 was guided to this determination by its extent, its 
 fertility of soil, and the convenience of the access to 
 the right bank, whence provisions could be obtained. 
 We proceeded to mark out a site at the lower end 
 of the island, which was covered with a dense bush, 
 wherein, while we cleared, we discovered relics of 
 former inhabitants. At the upper end, at the distance 
 of 1200 yards from the station, were the villages of 
 the tribe, wherein we had experienced a slight struggle 
 in 1877. 
 
 Although we had completed all negotiations with 
 the Wcnya in a far more successful way than any one 
 could have predicted, it behoved us to provide for the 
 sustenance of the station, and our guide, accompanied 
 by a few of our own men, was sent to Siwa-Siwa, the 
 chief of the Bakumu, wdio, hearing how happy the 
 Wenya had been made by the wliite strangers, ad- 
 vanced from the interior, a distance of five miles, with 
 tliirty natives, each weighted with cassava, bananas,
 
 STILL HAVEN. 
 
 163
 
 164 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. yams, sweet potatoes, and pumpkins, besides which 
 
 Dec.2tolO. ",,.„, , ,, ,. c J^^ • i 
 
 Wane ^hc chieis womcn, at the suggestion or the guide, 
 
 Rusan. -j^^^^ ^^^^ neglected to provide for the necessities of 
 
 the whites, and liad brought eggs and fowls, while a 
 
 small flock of goats was transported to our new island 
 
 home. 
 
 Between Siwa-Siwa and myself it might be said to 
 be love at first sight. Which of us was most effusive 
 it would be difficult to say. His sunny brown face was 
 aglow with so much candour and boyish delight, that 
 probably this caused a warm and spontaneous reci- 
 procity on my part. I admired greatly the loving 
 possessive manner in which his women surrounded me, 
 and cooed their sweetest into each of my ears, without 
 exciting in the least Siwa-Siwa's jealousy, or alarming 
 his susceptibilities. Agreements with Siwa-Siwa re- 
 quired no casuistry to urge his signature. The Wenya 
 had told him everything, and was present to guide his 
 judgment if he hesitated. Siwa-Siwa confided solely 
 in my honour that my coming among them boded no 
 evil, but who knows what good? "Your people shall 
 be my children," said he, "in your absence. Go in 
 safety. It will be my task to feed them, and until you 
 return I shall dream every night of you." Good 
 Fortune certainly seemed to have prepared for me 
 pleasant places in the wilderness ! 
 
 There only remained one more duty, and that seemed 
 for a time the most difficult, viz., selecting a substitute 
 for the person whom I had conveyed to Stanley Falls 
 to take charge of the station, only to hear him at the
 
 THE CHIEF OF STANLEY FALLS. 1G5 
 
 Jast, pleadinG: earnestly to be returned to the coast. i883, 
 
 ^ ^ . *^ . Dec.2tol0. 
 
 There only remained three engineers — two Scotchmen w.ine 
 and a German — and an English man-of-war's man, 
 who acted as skipper of the A. I. A. steam-launch. 
 Binnie, a little Scotchman, about 5 feet 3 inches in 
 height, begged to be appointed, but his very slight 
 appearance caused me to be anxious. However, argu- 
 ing that if a man, after arriving in mid-Africa and 
 bearing the fatigues of the journey, is so enamoured 
 of a residence iherc that he volunteers to remain, it 
 appeared to me to be evidence that he was possessed of 
 a superior and firm soul that would carry him through 
 any physical weakness, and Binnie, the engineer of 
 the Royal, was accordingly appointed chief of Stanley 
 Falls Station jt^ro tern. 
 
 We cleared about four acres of ground for him, con- 
 structed a dwelling-place for him, furnished him with 
 tools, axes, hoes, hammers and nails, gave him pro- 
 visions of wheat flour, meats, coffee, tea, chocolate, 
 sugar, milk, soups, jam, butter, potatoes, bacon, lard, 
 sauce, tapioca, vinegar, brandy, and candles, and 
 stocked his goods store with cloth of various kinds, 
 beads of many colours, cowries, brass wire, rings, 
 wristlets nnd anklets, tin plates and mugs and pans. 
 Leaving with him thirty-one armed men — soldier- 
 labourers — and a plentiful reserve of ammunition, with 
 abundance of sage advice to be prudent and just in 
 his government, amiable and patient in his intercourse, 
 trustful and courageous, we committed him to the care 
 of Providence, and on the 10th of December we turned
 
 166 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883; our faces homeward, leaving the little man all alone 
 
 Dec.2tol0. . . , . ., .,.,. 
 
 Wan^ With his grave responsibihties. 
 
 Rusari. ^^ ^y^^^ j^^^ readied the utmost bourne of the 
 expedition, only one day later than the date I had 
 given to the Comite at Brussels. Further progress 
 before consolidation and incorporation of the work of 
 the Association would be unwise. What was required 
 now was to turn our attention to obtaining the Pro- 
 tectorship of the districts intervening between station 
 and station, so that we might become masters of one 
 uninterrupted and consecutive territory from Yivi 
 Station to the Falls, which, now that we had sown seeds 
 of goodwill at every place we had touched, and eacli 
 tribe would spread diffusively the report of the beauty 
 and value of our labours, it would be an easy task for 
 an intelligent and patient officer like Captain Hanssens, 
 for instance, to perform. Pure benevolence contains 
 within itself grateful virtues. Over natural peoples, 
 nothing has greater charm or such expansible power. 
 Its influence grows without effort ; its subtlety exercises 
 itself upon all who come within reach of the hearing 
 of it. Coming in such innocent guise, it offends not ; 
 there is naught in it to provoke resentment. Pro- 
 vided patience and good temper guided the chief of 
 Stanley Falls Station, by the period of the return of 
 the steamers the influence of the seedling just planted 
 there will have been extended by the Bakumu far 
 inland, by the Wane Rukura up to the Baswa at the 
 Upper Falls, by the Yakusu visiting the Wenya with 
 their fruits, to exchange for fish, up the Chofu, and
 
 PATIENCE AND GOOD TEMPER. 167 
 
 alone* their own ravaored river borders down to tlie ^^83- 
 
 ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ D(H,-.2tol( 
 
 hearing of the persecuted famih'es on the islands. The Wan^ 
 Basoko would then hear of it, and regret that such 
 a seedling had not been left with them, to grow up 
 amongst them, and to overshadow them with its 
 benign shade.
 
 168 THE CONGO. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXI. 
 
 DOWN" TDE COXGO TO STANLEY POOL. 
 
 Going witli the stream — The Arabs send their confidential men with us 
 — Navigability of the Lumami and Liibilash — Wreck of the Boyal — 
 Beaching and repairing the wreck — Cold winds on the river — Iboko 
 in confusion — Impudent thieving — A prisoner — " Fast bind, fast 
 find" — A horrified fother — Eefusal of a ransom — Cordiality at 
 Ukumira — Mata Bwyki in a passion — More prisoners — Restitution 
 of our stolen property — Freeing the prisoners — ^A horrible massacre 
 — Young Glave of Yorkshire— Bolobo station again burnt — News 
 from the missionaries — Again at Lcopoldville — Troublesome news 
 from Yivi. 
 
 1883. Being borne down by the current of the tawny flood of 
 Yakonde. ^^^^ Congo assisted by steam was naturally much more 
 exhilarating- tlian laboriously breasting it. A little after 
 noon on the lOtli we were in camp again with the 
 Arabs, who had moved their quarters, and were hutted 
 and stockaded on the left bank, on the site of ruined 
 Yakonde. 
 
 For reasons of polity I set about persuading the 
 chiefs to send with us to the coast a few of their con- 
 fidential men, that they might witness for themselves 
 what influences were advancing up the river on whose 
 banks they had created such widespread havoc. It 
 appeared to me the best mode of suggesting to them.
 
 AEAB RECOLLECTIONS. 1G9 
 
 rather than saying so in many words, that it would be i883. 
 wiser to abstain from committing these sanguinary isangi. 
 battues, than to risk meeting some day a gunboat with 
 a police force on board, wlio probably might deal 
 summarily with such a slave-raiding band as we had 
 found housed so openly on the river banks. Meantime 
 they could send s^^ecimens of their ivory, and obtain 
 a few necessaries of which, perhaps, they were in need. 
 They accepted the proposal, and they accordingly sent 
 ten of their confidential slaves with three tusks each. 
 It was exceedingly inconvenient, naturally, while en- 
 gaged in the conveyance of men and stores, and plant 
 ing stations along the river, to engage carrying pas- 
 sengers; still I regarded it as part of the mission, and 
 by no means the least useful portion of it. 
 
 On the 12th we continued on our voyage down 
 river ; the Arabs on board could tell us incidents in 
 connection with each of the ruined villages as we glided 
 past. Yaporo was soon passed, and an hour later we 
 came to the mouth of the afQuent Lubiranzi. Our 
 l^assengers had been up this river, and had utterly 
 devastated the country on each side. Twenty-five 
 miles higher u^^ rapids are met, but above these a 
 few miles the Luraami and the Lubilash meet, both 
 being navigable for hundreds of miles. At the large 
 town of Isangi, situated at the left corner of the 
 confluence, the natives had begun to build again, but 
 on our appearance they scrambled and hurried away 
 in quick flight across the river, forming a flotilla with 
 which the Congo might have been bridged easily.
 
 170' THE CONGO. 
 
 Probably 1 2,000 natives were afloat, as some of the canoes 
 were very large, containing about a hundred people. 
 
 The mouth of the Lubiranzi was about 800 yards 
 wide, showing that it ranks in size with the Biyerre. 
 
 On the 13th we passed by the warrior tribe of the 
 Bahunga, in tlie district of Bunga, and four hours later 
 spoke with the Barumbu. These are situate on the 
 highlands nearly opposite the mouth of the Biyerre. 
 We left a promise that the next time the steamers 
 should ascend they would be visited and treated with, 
 and camped at evening below Bungungu among the 
 Bahamba tribe. This was the ultimate point which 
 the Arab raiders had reached. 
 
 On the 14th my arm was scarified at Iruba, a short 
 time later at Mbungu, and at noon at the new settle- 
 ment of Yalulima, after stopping an hour at each place 
 in order that our presence on their waters might be 
 understood. 
 
 On the 15tli we had arrived at the place above 
 Ikassa, whence we crossed over to the right bank in 
 the ascent. Having traced the left bank from Stanley 
 Falls down to Ikassa, and in our ascent traced the re- 
 mainder, we now stretched across the river to continue 
 the exploration of the right bank. In doing so the 
 steam-launch Royal was steered too near the upper 
 extremity of an island, and, striking a snag, sank 
 immediately to her gunwale. The other boats rushed 
 to the rescue to unload her of her passengers and the 
 cargo of ivory belonging to our Arab guests; and, 
 examining her condition, we perceived that she was
 
 WRECK OF THE ROYAL. 171 
 
 upborne by the snag. We were obliged to camp, i883. 
 and let lier remain there until mornino;. tt \ 
 
 c5 UpOtO. 
 
 After eight hours' work on the 16th we succeeded in 
 chipping off the snag ; and, ramming canvas into the 
 foot-wide rent in her hull, we floated the Royal on to 
 a bank, and afterwards hauled her up on the dry land, 
 and turned her over. A space three feet in length 
 by eighteen inches in width was sawn out, as it was 
 hopelessly fractured, and we commenced to rebuild her 
 out of the remnants of dunnage, on which we were 
 accustomed to lay our cloth bales. Our tools consisted 
 of a saw, two gimlets, a brace and bits, a hatchet, a 
 rasp, and two dozen screws. By the evening of the 
 19th the repairs were completed, the boat was again 
 launched, the engines were fixed, and the loads 
 replaced ready for the morrow's departure. 
 
 The Congo, ever since our start up the Biyerre on 
 the 17th, had been steadily falling, and as the Royal 
 was a deep boat, drawing three feet six inches water, 
 we found the exploitation was not very easy whenever 
 we left the main channels. 
 
 At II A.M. we were skirting the hills of Upoto. 
 We halted here to purchase provisions, to make 
 brotherhood with Lubungu and Ibanza or Minyoto, 
 and make a treaty. A beautiful piece of ground 
 commanding a magnificent view was also purchased. 
 Representatives from Ukele, Umangi, Mpissa, and 
 Iringi appeared also, and, being neighbours of Upoto, 
 we concluded treaties with them. 
 
 On the 23rd we passed the river of TJbika, wdience
 
 172 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1883. issued tlie wild men who had overrun so much of the 
 
 Dec. 23. 
 
 Upoto. left bank. As the main force of the flood sheered 
 towards the left bank in this locality, we could only 
 occasionally follow the right bank. The Cf>ld winds 
 met in our rapid descent by steam and witli the current 
 prostrated us. This was the first time I had suffered 
 the slightest indisposition for months, because while 
 ascending the river we had been retiring before the 
 wind. In coming down fjom Stanley Falls as far as 
 Upoto, we were proceeding towards the flank of the 
 wind-current. When we finally began to descend 
 along the south-westerly stretcli — the force of the cur- 
 rent, between two and three knots, blowing up from 
 sea — the six-knot speed of the steamers, increased the 
 force of the wind which we had to face to about nine 
 knots, which at once checked the insensible perspira- 
 tion, and deranged the system. Two whites and a 
 coloured man fell victims to the first day's experience 
 of this peculiar change. Glass windows, which would 
 have served as a protection against the wind, and 
 enabled us to pilot the steamers, would have saved us 
 many a day's illness. 
 
 On the 24tli we passed by other villages of the 
 Wabika, who have been in their turn harried by the 
 Bangala. It has taught them to build their village 
 lines along small tributaries of the Congo, the mouths 
 of which can be blocked, and by which they present 
 insignificant points to the foe, and secure safe retreats 
 inland when the Bangala are on one of their raiding 
 expeditions.
 
 IMPUDENT THIEVING. \T6 
 
 Passin";' by Liiseiifi'o, we soon afterwards came in ,}^^'i: 
 
 " *' " ' Dec. 2o. 
 
 sight of the territory of Iboko. iboko. 
 
 Christmas Day found iis halted at central Iboko, at 
 the landing-place of the old chief Mala Bwyki. The 
 ancient of the Bangala was absent at Bukumbi on the 
 left bank. Kokoro, his son, was suffering from a 
 severe ulcer in the foot. Boleko was removing his 
 village and his belongings in order to occupy a new 
 clearing at the lower end of Iboko. Mbembe', the 
 second son, had departed on a trading tour to Langa- 
 Lan^a. Njugu, the favourite nephew, had lost four 
 children in one day by drowning, and was therefore 
 seeking forgetfulness of his sorrows in the beer-pot. 
 
 The ''cats being awav, the mice began to play." 
 Thieving became rampant ; the " unwashed " of Iboko 
 were ripe for mischief ; and they gathered on the bank 
 in great numbers, affecting much joy at beholding 
 the brother of their " Lord of Many Gruns." But the 
 strong under-current of motives in pressing so warmly 
 forward presently disclosed itself by the sly abstraction 
 of " unconsidered trifles," A boat rowlock, a spear, an 
 opera-glass, a cap, a bag of clothes, an umbrella, and in 
 the strangest manner a tin-box, belonging to one of 
 the whites who was always the most unsuspecting of 
 individuals, and who required to be prompted on every 
 occasion not to put too large a faith in affected friend- 
 ships. 
 
 As continual reports of theft by people who would 
 naturally steal so long as they were tempted by other 
 people's gross negligence of their ow^n properties were
 
 174 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. very irritating, our people received warning that the 
 iboko. first who brought news of a theft would be punished, 
 and he who first caught a thief would be rewarded. 
 For the result of this we had not long to wait : a man 
 was caught in the act, and a dozen willing hands laid 
 hold of him. The Bangala, however, rushed to the 
 rescue, and seized him also, and would have succeeded 
 in wresting him from his captors had I not hurried 
 up to lend assistance. 
 
 We carried our prisoner away in triumj^h on board 
 the steamer, and bound him securely on the principle 
 of ** fast bind, fast find." Orders were then given to 
 make steam. 
 
 An hour passed without further alarm. Then a 
 man was caught in the act of abstracting a boat flag, 
 with the intention doubtless of wearing it about his 
 loins. Such an indignity to the golden-starred flag 
 was not to be permitted, and an impetuous rush was 
 made on the prisoner, but he by superhuman exertions 
 escaped. 
 
 Kokoro, hearing of all these disgraceful proceedings 
 of his father's subjects, came in a canoe, and was paddled 
 up and down the river-side, threatening dire vengeance 
 in a loud, hoarse voice upon the thieves, but no one 
 j)ai(l the slightest heed to him, seeing which he advised 
 me to be on the alert, and catch every rogue among 
 them. He advanced alongside of the steamer, to look at 
 our prisoner, and was horrified to find that he was his 
 own son ! 
 
 His stoicism was that of the slayer of the Tarquins.
 
 A HOBRIFIED FATHER. 175 
 
 lie essayed to speak, but the words would not issue, i883. 
 
 Dec. 25. 
 
 In a moment of rage he had condemned unwittingly ^^^^^ 
 his ov/n son. Poor Kokoro ! I saw too well what his 
 emotions were caused by. He thought of his son, the 
 heir of Iboko, being a slave conveyed to unknown 
 lands. It was on the tip of my tongue to order his 
 release to relieve the poor fellow's agony, but I desisted, 
 knowing the African too well. However, I said : 
 
 " Kokoro, if this is your son I shall obtain my pro- 
 perty back, and your boy will be returned safe into 
 your hands." 
 
 He went away with head bent down and finger on 
 his lips, and never spoke a w^ord, thinking perhaps of 
 what he should say to the mother. 
 
 With such an important prisoner on board, Iboko 
 was no place for us, and we steamed across to the 
 island opposite. Thither Njngu came, prompted by his 
 cousin Kokoro, to negotiate for his son's release. He 
 offered two tusks of ivory and two slaves if we would 
 free him. 
 
 " Not for twenty slaves, and twenty tusks of ivor3\ 
 Look here, you Njugu ! What do you mean by making 
 blood-brotherhood with me and my people and then 
 robbing us. To steal is to make war. War is met 
 with war. Do you forget the Ibanza, who years ago 
 descended by your town ? Have you quite forgotten 
 your trouble with Irebu, caused by the thieving of the 
 Bangala ? Go back and tell Kokoro I am going down 
 river to the Bakuti, and I will take his son with me. 
 On the tenth day I shall return, wdien I shall expect
 
 176 THE CONGO. 
 
 1883. my property back, and Kokoro will get bis boy safe 
 
 Dec. 28. , ^ ' 
 
 Uianga. ogain." Soon after we continued our journey down 
 river. 
 
 On tlie 28tb, witb many troubles from sand bars, 
 we passed by tbe populous districts of Usimbi and 
 Ubengo, and at 4 p.m. entered a narrow cliannel 
 leading to Ukumira. 
 
 This last community came into view early next 
 morning. Ukumira seemed to liave projected itself in 
 one body to greet us. It consists of twelve villages, 
 extending along a ten-mile length of river bank. The 
 land is very low but densely wooded, and the islands 
 opposite are remarkable for the apparent impenetrability 
 of their bush. 
 
 A few miles below Ukumira is the well-peopled distiict 
 of Bungata, extended in a long line along the right 
 bank. From its upper end a spacious channel of the 
 Congo strikes obliquely across towards ihe left bank, 
 to be deflected along it by the dry airy bluff banks 
 of Uranga at the confluence of the Lukungu and the 
 Congo. No sooner did we appear than Uranga also 
 poured forth its multitudes, who showed effusive de- 
 monstrations of welcome. Our reputation evidently 
 had been widely extended in our absence. Uranga 
 was even more cordial than Ukumira, the left bank vied 
 with the right bank in extending fraternal amenities. 
 Seventy well-manned canoes darted about us, hailing 
 Bula Matari by name, wishing him " more power," 
 dinning his ears with numberless invitations to their 
 different villages, nnd displaying noisy argumentative-
 
 POPULARITY OF DULA M ATA HI. 177 
 
 nes3 about tbe superiority of their respective chiefs. i883. 
 One of these clamorous canoe-crews was that which .r^*^' " " 
 
 Uranga. 
 
 swept luka of Lukolela alongside of us. He had 
 ventured to Uranga on a trading excursion, and had 
 already acquired a valuable stock of ivory, \\\\\\q 
 the prospect of increase was promising. 
 
 Being an old friend, we accompanied him to his 
 hotel-village, whither presently all the Uranga chiefs 
 gathered to make blood-brotherhood, to fraternise over 
 huge pots full of beer, and to exchange views for the 
 future settlement of a station, and arbitrament of dis- 
 putes. As every canoe arriving up-river from the 
 cloth-marts of Irebu, Usindi, Lukolela, and Bolobo had 
 been bringing the latest news of Bula Matari's doings, 
 the fruit was ready ripe. We made a treaty witli 
 Uranga, while much loud but harmless fusilading 
 celebrated the event. 
 
 Starting from Uranga at 8.20 a.m., we arrived at 
 Equator Station at 4.20 p.m., to find that Lieutenants 
 Yangelo and Coquilhat were well, and that they had 
 extended their improvements by planting an avenue 
 of bananas, besides in many other ways beautifying 
 the station. Ikenge, the native chief, was dead, and 
 no further trouble was anticipated from him. 
 
 Our prisoner, the grandson of Mata Bwyki, was 
 introduced to Equator Station, to the " big house " of the 
 Mundele, to the other white men and to the garrison, 
 to the piles of goods, including the array of cloths, and 
 the wealth of vari-coloured beads — in order that he 
 might retain the best impressions, and assist us with 
 Vol. II.— 12
 
 178 , THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. his artless story of what he had seen among tlie pale- 
 
 ■Jan. 1. 
 
 iboko. iJ^ces. 
 
 On the 1st of January, 1884, we started on our 
 return journey to Ihoko, for the sake of our prisoner 
 and the consummation of other projects. Lieutenant 
 Coquilhat accompanied us. 
 
 We arrived at Central Ihoko at 2 p.m. of the 5th. 
 Mata Bwyki was present. He had in fact arrived only 
 thirty minutes after I had departed, hound for Equator 
 Station. He was furious at the manner we had heen 
 treated, and now when speaking he was almost suffocated 
 by his own angry passions, when relating to me what 
 he had learned on his return. 
 
 " Asfor Kokoro's son, keep him safe until your goods 
 are restored. You took him away — that made us all 
 sorry at first ; hut now that you have brought him 
 back we have no fear of you. It will do him good, 
 and he will be an example to the rest." 
 
 Tlie Gth passed away, and still the young fellow was 
 on board, but on the 7th a grand council of the chiefs 
 of Iboko was convened, and a great concourse of men 
 attended. 
 
 During the sitting Njugu whispered to me that one 
 of the thieves who was known to possess articles 
 belonging to us was j^rescnt. " If you can trust your 
 men, seize him and hold him fast. Kokoro's son must 
 not be a captive alone." 
 
 A few whispered instructions to one of my confi- 
 dential servants served to bring twenty of the boats' 
 crews ashore, with cords under their clothes. The thief
 
 MOJiE PRISONERS. 179 
 
 was pointed out, and tlie obedient fellows so manociuvred i8.s4. 
 that he was captured amidst the circle of chiefs. Of jboko. 
 course there was confusion and excitement, wild talk 
 and furious gestures, but nevertheless my men con- 
 veyed the thief aboard, and bound him hand and foot. 
 The council continued its sitting after the subsidence 
 of the alarm, but in a few minutes another thief Avas 
 arrested from behind one of the chiefs, and, despite 
 menaces, which one time pushed patience to the 
 very narrowest verge of safety, he was carried away 
 captive. 
 
 Old Mata Bwyki enjoyed himself immensely, Njugu 
 and Mbembe remained strangely quiet at all this, 
 which caused all the chiefs to ask them what it all 
 meant. 
 
 Mata Bwyki rose, and said : " It only means that 
 Bula Matari knows the customs of the Bangala. If a 
 thief is known, he may be held in bond until a restitu- 
 tion of the stolen property is made. Bula jMatari has 
 now got three prisoners, one of whom is my own 
 grandson. He shall keep them, sell them, or kill them 
 — just as he may — unless his property be returned to 
 him. Bula Matari lias acted like a brother. He was 
 robbed. He went away for ten days ; he came back to 
 give us another opportunity. Now find the goods you 
 have stolen from him^ or else he shall take his captives 
 away and cut them up in little pieces if he likes. I 
 have spoken." 
 
 Seeing which, the chiefs agreed with him that to do 
 injury to a strong man, to Bula Matari, was very impo-
 
 180 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. 
 Jan. 7 
 
 litic. The town-criers were therefore despatched in all 
 iboko. directions to announce the doom that would surely 
 befall the grandson of Mata Bwyki and two other 
 sons of the Bangala if the goods were not restored. 
 As Iboko is a very large settlement, this restitution 
 could not be effected immediately, but on the 9th, 
 one by one the plundered articles were brought to 
 Mata Bwyki, and the old chief returned them to me. 
 Then when a due inspection of the goods had been 
 made, and not one of the dozens of articles abstracted 
 was found missing, the prisoners were set free, and 
 conducted to Mata Bwyki, who was seen to smile 
 grimly on his wicked grandson, and was heard to 
 admonish the assembled Bangala to leave the property 
 of Bala Matari severelv alone in future lest a dreadful 
 fate might overtake the guilty party. 
 
 On the 10th a treaty was entered into with Iboko ; 
 and, in peace with all the Bangala, at evening we 
 steamed away down the Congo. 
 
 Arriving at Equator Station, a curious story was 
 related to us by two European eye-witnesses of the 
 proceedings, the narration of which recalls to our 
 memories the sanguinary customs of Dahomey. We 
 had heard of cruel sacrificing of life before ; but the 
 stories were told by Africans, who have the habit of 
 relating events of this kind in the most matter-of-fact 
 manner. When, however, Europeans describe them 
 they strike home to our sense of horror with a shocking 
 force. 
 
 An important chief of the neighbourhood — an old
 
 A HORRIBLE MASSACRE. 181 
 
 and long-ago superannuated potentate, of whose exist- ^'^'^*' 
 ence I had previously been unaware — died, and, Equator. 
 according to the custom of the By-yanzi and Bakuti, 
 slaves had to be massacred to accompany him to the 
 land of spirits. Accordingly the relatives and free- 
 men began to collect as many slaves as could be pur- 
 chased. Lieutenant Vangele was chief of about fifty 
 men, and on account of the good discipline of the station, 
 and the prompt obedience paid to his commands 
 by the garrison, the Bakuti imagined the soldier- 
 labourers in the pay of the Association to be slaves, 
 and proposed to purchase a few. of them. Yangele 
 was curious to know why they wanted the men, and 
 he was then informed of the preparations being made 
 to celebrate the burial of their chief with an execution 
 of slaves. Of course the proposal was rejected with 
 horror, and the garrison chased the Bakuti wdth sticks 
 out of the precincts of the station. 
 
 The mourning relatives finally secured fourteen men 
 from the interior, and, being notified by the villagers 
 that the execution was about to begin, M. A^angele 
 and his friend proceeded with a few of their men to 
 view the scene. 
 
 They found quite a number of men gathered around. 
 The doomed men seen were kneeling with their arms 
 bound behind them in the neighbomhood of a tall 
 young tree, near the top of which the end of a rope 
 had been lashed. A number of men laid hold of the 
 cord and hauled upon it until the upper part of the 
 tree was bent like a bow. One of the captives was
 
 182 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1834. selected, and the dangling- end of the rope was fast- 
 
 Jan. 12. 
 
 Equator. Gncd Tound his neck ; the tree sprang several inches 
 higher, drawing the man's form up, straining the neck, 
 and almost lifting the body from the ground. The 
 executioner then advanced with his short broad-bladed 
 falchion, and measured his distance by stretching his 
 weapon from the position he intended to strike across 
 the nape of the neck. He repeated this operation 
 twice. At the third time he struck, severing the head 
 clean from the body. It was whipped up to the air 
 by the spring of the released tree and sent rebounding 
 several yards away. The remaining captives were 
 despatched one after another in like manner. Their 
 heads were unfleshed by boiling, that the skulls might 
 decorate the poles round the grave. The bodies were 
 dragged away and thrown into the Congo ; the soil 
 saturated with the blood was gathered up and buried 
 with the defunct chief. 
 
 However much our young militai'y lieutenant might 
 have wished to exert himself to save these victims of 
 savage usage, since money would not buy their liberty, 
 he had to content himself with knowing that he was 
 as yet helpless. The year of grace will no doubt 
 come in its own destined time, but it may not be 
 hurried. To violently resist the butchers with rifles 
 would simply have been to make them victims instead, 
 and to depopulate the land. 
 
 On the 13th we left Equator Station, and arrived at 
 Usindi late in the afternoon. Yuinbila, the guide, was 
 delivered, with his wages, to his master Miyongo, who
 
 BOLODO AGAIN BURNT. 183 
 
 was also made liappy with a munificent reward for the 1884. 
 loan of the services of his servant. >," ' , ,' 
 
 Leaving Usindi, we lialted at Ngomhe, to exchange 
 friendly gifts, and to obtain a promise of concessions ; 
 and on the 14th we arrived at Lukolela. Young Glave, 
 of Yorkshire, had not made much of an advance in the 
 construction of his station, as the work was hard ; but 
 he himself, which was of more importance, was in 
 extraordinary condition. He was as fat as a butcher's 
 boy, he had become double-chinned, and amplified a 
 third larger in body. Petted by the natives, he was 
 beloved by his garrison, and was on excellent terms 
 with himself. He had been devoting himself to furni- 
 ture-making — had made chairs, tables, doors, shutters, 
 and shelves. He had a good deal to say of the curious 
 diseases revealed to him during his stay at Lukolela. 
 Fevers were almost unknown ; but whitlows, ulcers, 
 sores, and similar troubles, were frequent and an- 
 noying. 
 
 The gravest news we received from Lukolela was 
 contained in a note from .the chief of Bolobo Station. 
 For the second time the station had been burnt to 
 the ground ! 
 
 On the 15th we arrived at Bolobo, and saw for our- 
 selves the relics of the destructive conflagration — the 
 houses, goods, rifles, even the Krupp's carriage had 
 been destroyed, and the ammunition and shells had 
 exploded. 
 
 The story told to me was that a sick man, getting 
 light-headed, and feeling that his end was approaching,
 
 184 THE CONGO. 
 
 188+. resolved to have an honourable burial. When a chief 
 r.oiobo. ^^^^ tlie body was enveloped in thousands of yards of 
 clot]], and interred with protracted ceremonies. Kegs of 
 gunpowder were consumed in the volleys fired over the 
 grave ; slaves were massacred, and the soil was saturated 
 with the blood ; his favourite wives were strangled, and 
 their bodies laid alongside. He, friendless, sick, and 
 dying, pined for this honour, and crept by night to 
 apply the destructive torch to Bula Matari's houses. 
 Although he w\ns arrested while flying from the scene, 
 nothing could be done to avert or check the catastrophe. 
 Being thatched with grass baked crisp by the tropic 
 sun, the fire fiend rushed up to the sky, and was 
 glutted only when a few crimson embers marked the 
 site of our unfortunate station. To avoid the bursting 
 sliells the garrison had to fly to the saw-pits, and to 
 the hollows by the river-side. During the excitement 
 the prisoner fled, to die in the forest beyond Bolobo, 
 satisfied, no doubr, with the honours he had w^on by 
 his mad freak. 
 
 But however this second destruction may have been 
 caused, this third event during the administration of 
 the chief of the station appeared to prove that a 
 sinister influence affected Bolobo, which probably 
 might be averted by a judicious change of masters. 
 
 Lieutenant Liebrechts, who, while at Leopoldville, 
 seemed to be a sufferer from chronic debility, so that he 
 was inelastic in movement, pallid of face, and infii-m 
 of step, had been transferred in September to Bolobo. 
 We lialf expected to hear that he was among the missing,
 
 NEWS OF THE MISSIONARIES. 185 
 
 or had departed homewards ; but our astonishment was i884. 
 very great when a strong, martial-looking figure ap- Bd'obo. 
 peared at the landing-place to greet us, in the perfec- 
 tion of health and condition, and disclosed himself to us 
 as Lieutenant Liebrechts. To see a man thus restored 
 to us flushed with strength, a new and richer bloom of 
 manhood on his face, and the light of renovated life 
 glancing from his eyes, reconciled us to hear with 
 patience the tale of the second burning of Bolobo. 
 
 This is the young gentleman to whom subsequently 
 was intrusted the reconstruction of the station, and, 
 though fifteen months have elapsed since the period 
 of his appointment, nothing has occurred to cause us 
 to doubt that the unkind Fates have not been at last 
 duly propitiated. 
 
 The news we learned at Bolobo, relating to political 
 and missionary efforts, was that Dr. Ballay had at last 
 emerged at the mouth of the Likuba, and had con- 
 structed a station at Bossi. The chief of the Livingstone 
 Inland Congo Mission had been a visitor at Bolobo 
 prospecting for a site, and had finally selected Misongo, 
 below Clnnnbiri, as a suitable locality to establish a 
 mission-house. 
 
 On the 18th we arrived at Kwamouth Station. 
 The station was well advanced, food was abundant, and 
 the natural advantages were many. 
 
 On tlie 2()tli of January we arrived at Kinshassa, and 
 were gratified to observe the station not only in process 
 of erection, but rapidly approaching completion, under 
 the grove of mighty baobab which characterises this
 
 186 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. district. Consistent, patient conduct, and steady for- 
 Kinsiiassa. b^arancG had performed wonders, and the most intract- 
 able community on the Uj)per Congo had been con- 
 verted to have a perfect faith in our honesty and in 
 the purity of our motives. 
 
 Two hours after leaving Kinsliassa, the flotilla 
 steamed into the cove of Le'opoldville, from which it 
 had been absent 146 days, having meantime tiavelled 
 3050 miles on the Upper Congo. 
 
 Le'opoldville, as might be expected from the happy 
 selection of its chief. Lieutenant Yalcke, was a flou- 
 rishing station. For from the matin to the vesper 
 bells, excepting Sundays, work — purposeful work — 
 ran on in a steady, unruffled current. By this means, 
 nature assisting, the gardens teemed with abundance, 
 and the houses lined the terrace in an imposing row, 
 so that our guests from Nyangwe uttered exclamations 
 of admiration which were indeed echoed by everybody 
 on the boats. Nor on searching into details was there 
 any cause found for regret. All the chiefs round 
 about were on excellent terms with the Europeans ; 
 the market held at Le'opoldville Plaza supplied all 
 that the community needed. There had been no out- 
 break of temper, and, consequently, there was no 
 marring or inharmonious incident to relate. The 
 magazines were full of goods and provisions, contain- 
 ing enough to supply all the stations on the Upper 
 River, and for tlie new places to be established on the 
 next journey to the regions above. 
 
 Meantime, on the Lower Congo, owing to the fact
 
 I' l"lli''T!l'J!1'l'fl!1!l'l 'i':f 'l gT' ' ''" ' :ir'7 ' :T !' : i r
 
 ville 
 
 AGAIN AT LEOPOLD VILLE. 187 
 
 that the su[)eiior j)erson promised to me in 1882 as issi. 
 principal assistant, and second cliict or administrator, LeopoM- 
 had not arrived, the confusion liad been very great at 
 
 onr principal base. " Captain " D had made only 
 
 a short stay at Vivi, but his reign had been a singu- 
 larly unhappy one. Owing to some incomprehensible 
 reason, Yivi, both with its Europeans and natives, 
 was in a ferment continually. Finally, Sir Frederick 
 Goldsmith had. appeared, and had relieved the station 
 
 of the presence of " Captain " D . Sir Frederick 
 
 had himself made an inspection of the country as far 
 as Isangila, but had returned to Europe, and the 
 kindly influi'nce that had begun to glow on the 
 Lower River became extinguished at his depar- 
 ture. Chief after chief had tried their fortunes with 
 governing this Augean station, but each and all 
 had failed to relieve me of the manifold complaints 
 that poured to Le'opoldville during my absence. Out 
 of 120 letters awaiting me on my return from the 
 Falls, all but thirty contained the most deplorable 
 accounts, and revealed a state of affairs that compelled 
 me to abandon the hope that it could ever be reme- 
 died while the Chief of the Expedition remained 
 away on the Upper Congo. With an efficient second it 
 might be possible yet, but, excepting the notice of Sir 
 Frederick Goldsmith, who had already returned to 
 Europe, there was no promise or indication that the 
 Comite' intended to assist me with anyone. Therefore, 
 after seeing the steamers and boats duly prepared and 
 equijDped, and framing most elaborate instructions for
 
 188 THE CONGO. 
 
 1334 the guidance of my deputy, Captain Hanssens, Le- 
 
 /V " ' sides seeino: that our Arab 2^uests had been con- 
 
 viiie. ducted to the sea and back to Leopoldville, I turned 
 
 my steps towards Yivi, twenty-four hours before the 
 
 gallant Captain departed on his long journey to Stanley 
 
 Falls.
 
 QOOV-liYE TO LEOPOLD VILLE. 189 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 RETURN TO VIVT. 
 
 Starting of our caravan — A promising farewell — Ngalyema's last words — 
 Encouraging resolutions of the officers— Hospitality of the natives 
 as we pass— Nselo ferry — Quarrel between Ngombi and Mbimbi — 
 Peace-making — Forms of our treaties with native chiefs — List of 
 districts and their chiefs— The cut-throat Lutete is changed for the 
 better — An extending and dangerous crevasse — Lava at Kalulu 
 Falls: "Whence has it come?" — Manyanga " higgledy-piggledy " — 
 Hospitality at the mission-house of Mr. and Mrs. Ingham — A pretty 
 station — Luiraa and Lunionzo valleys — Climate and health — Congo 
 la Lemba— View of Vivi — Unhappy reflections upon its neglect. 
 
 Ox the morning our caravan was to start for the i884. 
 
 T ^ -\ • I'll n f ^^'"^''^'i -0- 
 
 coast, i was deeply impressed with the prooi oi L^opoU- 
 success which our patient labours had won. For on 
 the spacious terrace, covering about 15,000 square 
 yards, which we had carved out of the side of Leopold 
 Hill, and converted into a grand promenade and 
 market-place, were assembled the chiefs of Kintarao 
 and a few hundreds of their people to give me a 
 " good-bye." 
 
 Ngalyema had long ago emerged out of the state 
 of childish tutelage. He was a complete man in a 
 state of military subordination — as much as an inde-
 
 ville. 
 
 190 . THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. pendent fiborl2^Inal chief could well be. He knew In's 
 
 March 20. 
 
 Leopold- Sundays as well as any of us, and kept due observance 
 of them by hoisting the gold-star flag at sunrise ; he 
 paid friendly visits without requiring hostages^ and 
 was not averse to picking up trifles of information 
 respecting the sea-lands ; he had droj^ped his natural 
 petulance and inordinate heroics, and. now exchanged 
 gifts without expecting more than their value. A 
 few times also he had surprised me by the utterance 
 of sentiments that caused me to glance sharply at him 
 to detect if possible the spirit that prompted them. 
 For instance, it sounded oddly to be told by Ngalyema 
 that the ^' gifts of friends should not be examined as 
 to their worth." " A pea-nut from a true friend is 
 better than a bunch of bananas from an enemy." 
 " Among friends you may sleep with open doors." 
 " A look into a friend's eyes is better than a treasure 
 of cloth from a man you doubt." 
 
 When I had drawn my men in line, Ngalyema 
 pressed forward for a last word. He wished me to 
 charge my white sons whom I was to leave behind not 
 to be rude to him and his people, now that the father 
 was going away ; not to push and smack his children 
 when they came to visit the station, for, said he, "White 
 men differ from one another as much as black men. 
 We are all friends and brothers now, but when the 
 old man is gone tlie young man's head grows largo, 
 and he speaks witli a loud tongue ; charge tlie sons 
 you leave behind that tliey do not forget that we are 
 Bula Matari's brothers."
 
 ville. 
 
 A FROMISINQ FAREWELL. 191 
 
 Whereupon I called Captain Seymour Saiilez up, issi. 
 and presented him to Ngalyema for final words. 'l.:oi.oM- 
 
 " See, Ngalyema, this son of mine. Believe in him 
 as you would believe in me. He is slow to anger, not 
 apt to break his word. While he wears this face be 
 not afraid of him. If it turns black you will know 
 that he lias become your enemy. Watch it daily, and 
 when it begins to change its colour 3-ou will know that 
 the evil spirit is in him ; until that time sleep in peace. 
 Fare you well, Ngalyema, Makabi, Mubi, old Ngako, 
 and you Manswala, Ganchu, Enje'li — good-bye all of 
 you! 
 
 The large caravan lifted its burdens and struck out 
 along the road leading to the coast, many of the men 
 never again to see Leopoldville, which they had as- 
 sisted to build. The parting with the Europeans was 
 affectionate. With Captain Saulez's promise ringing 
 in my ears, that he would distinguish his governor- 
 ship by the industrious improvement of Leopoldville, 
 until it became a model station ; and the assurance of 
 Dr. van den Heuvel that he would complete his sana- 
 torium on the summit of Le'opold Hill, and perform 
 his duties manfully and nobly ; with the carpenter 
 Schnoor's promise that I should hear no ill repute of 
 him ; with Ctiptain Hanssens' declaration that he would 
 be wary and watchful on the Upper Congo, and patient 
 with the natives; — with good words, in short, of noble 
 resolves from each and all, and loud cheers from the 
 garrison, and waving of hands from the throngs of 
 natives, T followed my caravan now travelling eastward.
 
 192 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. Along the road the friendly chiefs had collected 
 Leopold- great earthen jars full of fresh and foaming palm-juice. 
 
 ^'''^' At every village the women had prepared pots of 
 cold water to give myself and my people a parting 
 drink, and to bid us kindly adieus. 
 
 Ngamberengi, Ngoma, and old Makoko were by the 
 roadside with their friends, slaves, and children, to see 
 the last of us, and every village we passed showed the 
 appearances of a general holiday. The acquaintance 
 of many months with them had ripened into a full 
 friendship. Not a shadow remained of the doubt 
 which in old times blinded their eyes and clouded 
 their vision. The fond regard we had mutually con- 
 ceived towards one another was unmistakeably genuine. 
 Their rough hands, often horny from labour and ill- 
 usage, felt as warm to me as any that I had touched 
 elsewhere. 
 
 On our march to Inkissi we slept first at Ngoma's, a 
 place which rests lovingly under the lee of the shelter- 
 ing mountain of lyumbi. We crossed the breezy ridge 
 whence we may gaze over a world of lower hill-domes 
 divided from one another by the sinuous lines of dark 
 foliage. We plunged down into the cool forest tangle 
 at its base, and emerged into full sunlight tracing 
 the spines of level ridges. We dipped down into the 
 hollows made fresh with streams and verdure, and 
 then climbed up to rest under Mbe's friendly and 
 grateful palms. Along an elevated and grassy table- 
 land, with the Congo a few miles to our right tearing 
 down over its successive terraces, we next journeyed.
 
 Swfillllil^^
 
 NSELO FERRY. 193 
 
 Beyond Kinzila's banana proves we descended to i884. 
 cross the pellucid waters of the brawling Lulu, and Kinziia. 
 a few miles west camped on a square-browed hill 
 opposite the cones of Nsangu, whence we looked 
 down on winding belts of tall woods crowned with 
 impervious leafage, on which the sunshine broke out 
 in sprays as the breeze kissed the pendulous and deli- 
 cate tops. 
 
 Over a road which gently undulated and followed 
 long, grassy ridges we urged our way, being greeted by 
 pleasant peoples who flocked from their happy villages 
 to see us, until we stood over a deep-wooded gorge 
 through which the full-volumed Inkissi River flowed 
 strongly past the ferry to fall lower down in beautiful 
 cascades to the Congo. 
 
 The guardians of the ferry are at Nselo on the 
 western side, and the word is holloa'd loudly that 
 Bula Matari and his people are come. The chiefs of 
 Nselo are in our pay, and Teceive monthly subsidies 
 like others. They accordingly hasten to ferry us over 
 with their canoes, assiduously, and in their village give 
 us such further welcome as commend them favourably 
 to kind consideration. 
 
 Beyond Nselo the country is for a considerable 
 distance level, feeders of the Inkissi skirring, left of us, 
 the plateau on which we travel. We are too far from 
 the Congo to be annoyed by the deeply-grooved hills. 
 We cross a lovely little stream, and follow a gentle 
 inclined spur towards Mbimbi, near which we see. 
 Vol. II.— 13
 
 194 ' THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. suspended to a tree, a felon whom Judge Lynch of 
 Mbimbi.* Congo-land has condemned for pilfering in the public 
 market. 
 
 The folks of Mbinibi welcome us with gleeful shouts, 
 for here are our carriers who know us all well. They 
 sweep the huts, and tidy them for their guests, while 
 bowls and foaming pots of palm-wine come forth as 
 a grateful testimony of their regard for us. 
 
 Ngombi, close by to the right, has excited the anger 
 of Mbimbi, and the chiefs of the latter wish me to 
 advise them how to slake their fury in the best blood 
 of Ngombi. Here is a storm in a teapot, truly ! My 
 work of |)reaching peace and brotherhood ' is not yet 
 ended, and so they have to listen to paternal admoni- 
 tions to keep the peace. The road cannot, must not, 
 be closed ! No fighting nor sounds of gunshot must 
 be heard ; the carrier travels with empty hands but 
 loaded back, and they must not be frightened by the 
 noise of strife, the cries of war, &c. So the people 
 of Mbimbi promise faithfully to cloak their wrath. But 
 to ensure their loyal observance of their promises a 
 treaty is made with them, as with each chief along the 
 route, that, in consideration of certain quantities of 
 cloth to be paid to them monthl}^ they shall abstain 
 from acts of aggression and violence against their 
 neighbours. Tlie purport of this, as of other similar 
 negotiations, may be best understood by the perusal of 
 the following forms : —
 
 FOUMS OF TR-EATIES. 195 
 
 {Copy.) 
 
 Expedition Internationale du Haut-Congo. 
 
 Village of Banza Mbuba, District of Nzungi, 
 
 March 26th, 1884. 
 
 "Wo, the undersigned chiefs of Nzungi, agree to recognise the i884. 
 sovereignty of the Association Internationale Africaine, and in sign Mnrch 2fi, 
 thereof adopt its flag (blue with a golden star). We declare we shall keep Nzungi. 
 the road open and free of all tax and impost on all strangers arriving 
 with the recommendation of the agents of the above Association. 
 
 All troubles between ourselves and neighbours, or with strangers of any 
 nationality, we shall refer to the arbitration of the above Association. 
 
 We declare that we have not made any written or oral agreement with 
 any person previous to this that would render this agreement null and 
 void. 
 
 We declare that from henceforth wo and our successors shall abide by 
 the decision of the representatives of the Association in all matters affect- 
 ing our welfare or our jiossessions, and that we shall not enter into any 
 agreement with any person without referring all matters to the chief of 
 Manyanga or the chief of Leopoldville, or act in any manner contrary to 
 the tenor or spirit of this agreement. 
 
 Keekuru, his X mark, 
 Witnesses — Chief of Nzungi. 
 
 Dualla, his O mark, Nseka, his X mark, 
 
 Chami Pard. Chief of Banza Mbuba. 
 
 Mwamba, his x mark, Nzako, his X mark, 
 
 of Makitu's. Banza Mbuba. 
 
 Insila Mi^aka, his X mark, 
 Of Banza Mbuba. 
 
 Iriaki, his X mark, 
 
 Chief of Banza Mbuba. 
 
 (Treat !/.) 
 Henry M. Stanley, Commanding Expedition du Haut Congo, acting in 
 the name and on behalf of the " Association Internationale Africaine," 
 and the king and chiefs of Ngombi and Mafela, having met together in 
 conference at South Manyanga, have, after deliberation, concluded the 
 following treaty, viz. : — 
 
 Art. I.— The chiefs of Xgombi and Mafela recognise that it is highly 
 desirable that the " Association Internationale Africaine "
 
 196 THE CONGO. 
 
 J384 should, for the advancement of civih'zation and trade, be 
 
 April 1. firmly established in their country. They therefore now, 
 
 Manyanga, freely of their own accord, for themselves and their heirs 
 
 and successors for ever, do give up to the said Association the 
 sovereignty and all sovereign and governing rights to all their 
 territories. They also promise to assist the said Associa- 
 tion in its work of governing and civilising this country, 
 and to use their influence with all the other inhabitants, 
 with whose unanimous api^roval they make this treaty, to 
 secure obedience to all laws made by the said Association, and 
 to assist by labour or otherwise, any works, improvements, or 
 expeditions which the said Association shall cause at any time 
 to be carried out in any part of these territories. 
 
 Art. II. — The chiefs of Ngombi and Mafela i^romise at all times to 
 join their forces with those of the said Association, to resist 
 the forcible intrusion or repulse the attacks of foreigners 
 of any nationality or colour. 
 
 Art. III. — The country thus ceded has about the following boundaries, 
 viz., the whole of the Ngombi and Mafela countries, and 
 any others tiibutary to them ; and the chiefs of Ngorabi 
 and Mafela solemnly affirm that all this country belongs 
 absolutely to them ; that they can freely dispose of it ; and 
 that they neither have already, nor will on any future occasion, 
 make any treaties, grants, or sales ot any parts of these 
 territories to strangers without the permission of the said 
 Association. All roads and waterways running through this 
 country, the right of collecting tolls on the same, and all game, 
 fishing, mining, and forest rights, are to be the absolute pro- 
 perty of the said Association, together with any unoccupied 
 lands as may at any time hereafter be chosen. 
 
 Art. IV. — The " Association Internationale Africaine *' agree to pay to 
 the chiefs of Ngombi and Mafela the following articles 
 of merchandise, viz., one piece of cloth per month to each of 
 the undersigned chiefs, besides present of cloth in hand ; and 
 the said chiefs hereby acknowledge to accept this bounty and 
 monthly subsidy in full settlement of all their claims on 
 the said Association. 
 
 Art. v.— The "Association Internationale Africaine"' promises: — 
 
 1. To take from the natives of this ceded country no occupied 
 
 or cultivated lands, except by mutual agreement. 
 
 2. To promote to its utmost the prosperity of the said country. 
 
 3. To protect its inhabitants from all oppression or foreign 
 
 intrusion. 
 
 4. It authorizes the chiefs to hoist its flag ; to settle all local
 
 FORMS OF TREATIES. 197 
 
 disputes or palavers ; and to maintain its authority with 
 the natives. 
 
 Agreed to, signed and witnessed, this 1st day of April, 1884. 
 
 Henry M. Stanley. 
 
 Witnesses to the signatures — Tonki, his X mark, 
 
 E. Spencer Burns. Senior Chief of Ngombi. 
 
 D. Lehrman. Mampuya, his X mark, 
 ^^^^^^- Senior Chief of Mafela. 
 
 We, the undersigned chiefs of the districts i^laced opposite our names 
 helow, do hereby solemnly bind ourselves, our heirs and successors, for 
 the purpose of mutual support and protection, to observe the following 
 articles : — 
 
 Art. I. — We agree to unite and combine together, under the name and 
 title of the '• New Confederacy," that is, our respective districts, 
 their towns and villages, shall be embraced by one united 
 territory, to be henceforth known as the New Confederacy. 
 
 Art. II. — We declare that our objects are to unite our forces aud our 
 means for the common defence of all the districts comprised 
 within the said territory ; to place our forces and our means 
 under such organization as we shall deem to be best for the 
 common good of the people and the welfare of the confederacy. 
 
 Art. III. — The New Confederacy may be extended by the admission of 
 all such districts adjoining those mentioned before, when their 
 chiefs have made application, and exjiressed their consent to 
 the articles herein mentioned. 
 
 Art. IV. — We, the people and the chiefs of the New Confederacy, adopt 
 the blue flag with the golden star in the centre for our 
 banner. 
 
 Art. V. — The confederated districts guarantee that the treaties made 
 between them shall be respected. 
 
 Art. VI. — The public force of the confederacy shall be organized at the 
 rate of one man out of every two men able to bear arms ; of 
 native or foreign volunteers. 
 
 Art. VII. — The organization, the armament, equipment, subsistence of 
 this force, shall be confided to the chief agent in Africa of the 
 " Association Internationale du Congo." 
 
 To the above articles, which are the results of various conventions held 
 between district and district, and by which we have been enabled to 
 understand the common wish, we sovereign chiefs, and others of the
 
 198 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. Congo district hereby append onr names, pledging ourselves to adhere to 
 Api'il !• each and every article: — 
 Manyauga. { Mark of Matanga. 
 
 „ Mahimpi Mbeza. 
 
 District of Khionzo 
 
 District of Vivi 
 
 District de Nsanda 
 
 District de Boete 
 
 District de Mgangila 
 
 Mbambi. 
 
 Mbango Mpambo. 
 
 Mkote. 
 
 Mango Mbando. 
 
 Mbango Mkote. 
 
 MiJambo Kionzo. 
 
 Mtimpi Mavungo. 
 
 Mtimi^i Mpambo. 
 
 Mambouko Ntamo. 
 
 Massala. 
 
 Vivi Maviingu. 
 
 Kapita. 
 
 Benzani Congo. 
 
 Vivi Mku. 
 
 Mambuku. 
 
 Ngufu Mpauda. 
 
 Dedede. 
 
 Samuna. 
 
 Sanda Mundele. 
 
 Sanda Mallele. 
 
 Sanda Mpolele. 
 
 Mkandu. 
 
 N'Sanda Manena. 
 
 Nebangi. 
 
 Neknmbi. 
 
 Ngomi. 
 
 Netzima. 
 
 Suka Madrata. 
 
 Makaya. 
 
 Mganga. 
 
 Kapita Nsanda. 
 
 Kapita Fontula. 
 
 Sanda Nlell6. 
 
 Boete Nzita. 
 
 Fulula. 
 
 Mavinga. 
 
 Nzau. 
 
 Ngombi. 
 
 Pambu. 
 
 Makambu. 
 
 Kajiita. 
 
 Nimpangi. 
 
 Nekinga.
 
 CONGO DISTRICTS AND CHIEFS. 
 
 199 
 
 District de Msulca 
 
 District de Sadika Banzi. 
 
 District de Lefuna. 
 
 District de Yellala. 
 
 District de Kinzala 
 
 District de LusaJct Kindunga 
 
 District de Vivi 
 
 District de Isangila 
 
 District de Ngoma 
 District de Chiama Mhongo 
 
 Mark of Msuka Mkwete. 
 
 „ Msuka Mazinga. 
 
 „ Msuka Mavungu. 
 
 „ Sadika Banzi. 
 
 „ Banza Manzi. 
 
 „ Mku. 
 
 Mzita. 
 
 „ Mtona. 
 
 „ Matanga. 
 
 „ Kapita a Matanga. 
 
 „ Singa Maka. 
 
 „ Madiata. 
 
 „ Mavinga. 
 
 „ Nefula. 
 
 Ntete Yellala. 
 
 „ Ngombi. 
 
 „ Mambnku. 
 
 „ Moemba. 
 
 „ Mbenza. 
 
 „ Sakala Konzo. 
 
 „ Makaya. 
 
 „ Mekukwe. 
 
 „ Mavinga. 
 
 „ Netunga. 
 
 „ Mavinga Kindonga. 
 
 „ Mavinga. 
 
 „ Mku. 
 
 „ Matumbo Nipombo. 
 
 „ Nelomle. 
 
 „ Nefuka Mozza. 
 
 „ Nigombe. 
 
 „ Nematta. 
 
 „ Nicombbe. 
 
 „ Nesukka. 
 
 „ Matouks. 
 
 „ Kapita Chiama. 
 
 „ Nalafundi Kinkele. 
 
 „ Mangofo. 
 
 ,, Massuna Mampuya. 
 
 „ Nzaulelo. 
 
 „ Ngoma. 
 
 „ Nzadi. 
 
 1884. 
 April 1. 
 
 Manyanga. 
 
 Chiama M bongo.
 
 200 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. 
 April 1. District of Izenda Nzendi. . J 
 
 Manyanga. | 
 
 District de Limama Mayoukona 
 
 District dt Lutete . . . 
 
 District of Ndamhi Mbo7igo . 
 „ Mbiiida 
 „ Chionzo 
 „ Kihwanda . 
 „ Kineati. 
 
 Kimbunda . 
 
 District de Ganya . 
 
 District de Sellele . 
 
 District de Masivamba . 
 
 District de Naluma 
 District de Ntombo 
 
 District de Yon;,a . 
 District de Kikai . 
 
 I „ 
 
 r „ 
 
 I „ 
 
 Makari. 
 
 Mark of Izenda N'Zendi. 
 
 „ Ne Linza. 
 
 „ N'Zaozi. 
 
 „ Limama Mayiikona. 
 
 „ Lutete Kimprika. 
 
 „ Tedede. 
 
 „ Ndambi Mbongo. 
 
 „ Mazau Chama (Bindu). 
 
 ,, Chionzo. 
 
 „ Matanga Sissulv/a (Kirabwanda). 
 
 „ Ichiakundama (Kineati). 
 
 „ Ichiamboma (Banza Kimbunda). 
 
 „ Ichiama Mbongo. 
 
 „ Lengo Mbenza. 
 
 „ Ichimo Mvangu 
 
 „ Lakali Bwadi 
 
 „ Matombukele. 
 
 „ Ntete. 
 
 „ Sellele. 
 
 „ Loanda Maswambu. 
 
 „ Nassoma. 
 
 „ Natela. 
 
 „ Ichiama lOmpioka. 
 
 „ Chiomkiandu » Kilonda). 
 
 ,, Lussala Yori i ^, 
 
 T , • 1 f Kussala. 
 
 „ Ichiamambourn ( 
 
 ,, BusallaBusundil ,, , 
 
 -r 1 . , >Monauganda. 
 
 „ Ichiamkumama I 
 
 „ Sakola Lema (Makanga). 
 
 „ Ichiamdebe (Melonde). 
 
 ,, Salamamboina (Makanga). 
 
 ,, Lussala Wala. 
 
 Inkelia Lnbrofa. 
 
 Kingoma. 
 
 Sukibola. 
 
 Lutete Mayungi. 
 
 Kinkela Lenga (Nsanda Ntombo) 
 
 Malonore. 
 
 Mavindi. 
 
 Ichiampanzu. 
 
 Mavambu. 
 
 Ichiakundama (Nganda). 
 
 Lutete Ngoma. 
 
 Lutete Nsona. 
 
 Tiama Surapa. 
 
 Naboela (Nsundi). 
 
 Kikundama.
 
 CONGO DISTRICTS AND CHIEFS. 
 
 201 
 
 District de Moinzi . 
 
 District de Kissimha . 
 
 District de Kompola 
 
 District de Wunki 
 
 ' Mark of Kinkela Nzita. 
 
 1884. 
 
 
 Kinkela Loko. 
 
 April 1. 
 
 
 Sakala Yeta. 
 
 Manyanga 
 
 
 Mavamba Bevakela. 
 
 
 
 Lussala Mkento. 
 Malanda Mbako. 
 Sakola Bato. 
 
 
 District de MTcundu Mputu . i, 
 
 District de Banza-Kivumba . 
 
 District de Kimhuda 
 
 District of Mhundu a Mputu, 
 
 Mavambo Msebwa. 
 Sakala Niaiida. 
 Sakala Guila. 
 Cheka Navundi. 
 Babambu Mkumba. 
 Lutete Landu (Kiilukingo). 
 Thama Lutila. 
 Lutete Makundu (Makai). 
 Kinkelu Baku (Kmanye). 
 Zikidole (Kavunda). 
 Sakala Masefo (Muswambu). 
 Miku Niema (Mbota). 
 Kinkela Manyanga (Banza). 
 Ichiama Mbonga (Monizi). 
 Nsakala Ronko (Banzahungo), 
 Nsakala Mpanza (Kaizi). 
 Icliiama Lebula (Kissiniba). 
 Lutete Mbondi (Kissimba). 
 
 Kenkala Kaji 
 
 (Kempampala 
 
 Kinzras). 
 Kionzo). 
 
 Moanza). 
 Kissimba). 
 
 „ ). 
 Moanza). 
 
 Lutete Nzemla ( 
 Lutete Matanka ( 
 Ichiama Likombe ( 
 Ichiama Mbota ( 
 Lutete Msyala ( 
 Kenkella Mpossi ( 
 Sakala Libemba. 
 Liitete Masiona (Kissemba). 
 Suzi Moka (Monakila). 
 Sakala Libemba. 
 Hussala Salu. 
 Sakala Maviamu. 
 Ntalenta. 
 Kinkela Mbenda. 
 Lutete Ngoma. 
 
 Ichiama Kanzu (Monakidi), 
 Matuna Manza (Mbindi). 
 Mavambu Luswaanza (Mclonde).
 
 202 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. 
 April 1. 
 
 Manvansa. 
 
 District de Ntomho 
 
 District de Mohanga 
 District de Mahunga 
 
 District de Glonala 
 
 District de Bemha 
 
 District de Ngomhe 
 
 District de Kimpiri 
 
 'Mark of Ionia Mboma (Ngombe). 
 
 „ Lutete Mavungu (Kiamba). 
 
 „ Sakala Mbwoka (Kaiji) 
 
 „ Movemba Motunda (Ntando 
 Ngombe). 
 
 „ Siku Zambi (Makanga). 
 
 „ Lutete Mokidi (Nakaji KunaZoele), 
 
 „ Kinkela Makinzi (Kiukongo). 
 
 „ Mivinze (Kissinga). 
 
 I. „ Sakala Makanza (Mankamba). 
 
 „ Mkanda (Bauza Nyunga). 
 
 „ Mkanda (Banza Xytinga). 
 
 „ Kassungwa (Banza Makango). 
 
 „ Cliiko Mayaka (Kiviza). 
 
 J 
 
 Bako (Mbanza Tampala). 
 Ichiama Kundi. 
 
 Bangazi. 
 
 Matunda Mkassa. 
 
 Kussala Mputu. 
 
 Issuki a Mbongo (Mavula). 
 
 Msuka Banza ( „ ). 
 
 Malembessa ( „ ). 
 
 Chiamq, Lutiiba (Madioka). 
 
 NampoUele ( „ ). 
 
 Glonalla Makuta Didela (Ksala). 
 
 Cliiama. 
 
 Naowami (Monasala). 
 
 Mayemba (Mokinanga). 
 
 Kinsiola (Kiukiuka). 
 
 Yandudu. 
 
 Namampuia. 
 
 Mangomole (Nsieka Mavalu). 
 
 Bikandii. 
 
 Banuini. 
 
 Nampampuia (Ivnnango). 
 Makaia ( „ ). 
 
 Kivcsna (Kimbuku). 
 Mandangi (Kimbongo). 
 Qualuka (Unatiba). 
 Mayemba (Kissenga). 
 Zenga (Ngola). 
 Moyola (Kinkiilu). 
 iS'iahibu (Koisefu). 
 Nalekete (Kintoko). 
 Mbuku (Kiijaji).
 
 CONGO DISTRICTS AND CHIEFS. 
 
 203 
 
 District de Buht 
 
 District de Kibonda . . . ■{ 
 
 District de Kalemha . 
 
 District de Losi 
 District de Kihindika . 
 
 District de Ntombo 
 
 District de Banzi Kimbuko 
 
 District de Ngoya . 
 District de Lemba . 
 
 District de Mbu 
 
 Mark of Sumbu (Bulu). 
 
 Makito. 
 
 Nubukutu. 
 
 Nausudi (Kaladi). 
 
 Nawaji. 
 
 Nzilabonda (Ntandu). 
 
 Kebawcle (Kimbonda). 
 
 Namoina (Maiitoba). 
 
 Mayossa (Mbindi). 
 
 Bemba (Kiboli). 
 
 Mswekx (Kimpange). 
 
 Betani (Nsandu). 
 
 Minina (Broende). 
 
 Kwemsunga (Kulonde). 
 
 Sukula Mboiiga. 
 
 Tambele. 
 
 Yenga. 
 
 Nampuia.., 
 
 Nzangi (Makaji). 
 
 Gampoia. 
 
 Lussilo (Konzo). 
 
 Monayendi. 
 Kiboli (Kibunga). 
 Kimponda (Kituuda), 
 
 Lomba. 
 
 Makiona. 
 
 Matai-i. 
 
 Niangana. 
 
 MayeHa. 
 
 Kwakalla. 
 
 Makitu. 
 
 Fihxnkoiim. 
 
 Lougozi. 
 
 Masuka. 
 
 Baghidi. 
 
 Petelo. 
 
 Lovamba. 
 
 Liifuanzu. 
 
 Borgi. 
 
 Kimbwanga. 
 
 Petolo. 
 
 Komingo. 
 
 Makwata. 
 
 Gomantade. 
 
 Gongoulu. 
 
 Jos. 
 
 1884. 
 April 1. 
 
 Manyanga.
 
 204 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. 
 April 1. 
 
 Manyanga. 
 
 District de Xdandanga 
 
 District de Ngomhi 
 
 District de Mpanga 
 
 District de Lutete 
 
 District de Sello 
 
 Mark of Tanglongo. 
 „ Matuso Mboiigo. 
 „ Kanza. 
 „ Mkossa. 
 „ Mavungu. 
 ,, LuYOuma. 
 
 Petelo. 
 „ Zoa Manipuya. 
 ,, Mswalu. 
 
 Tong. 
 „ Tuiizo Mivembo. 
 
 Mballa. 
 
 Petelo. 
 ,, Yinda. 
 „ Lolowe. 
 , Missanga. 
 „ Melengo. 
 „ Ngombe (Ngombe). 
 „ Makitu (Banza Kandoke). 
 „ Lutete (Lufunchou). 
 „ Issa. 
 
 „ Dongo (Banza Kindingo). 
 „ Tiamutulu (Kinangilwa). 
 „ Kinonga. 
 „ Nsumbu (KimbaEda). 
 „ Dolorwala. 
 „ Ntoba (Funzou). 
 „ Chiakambongo (Nzoiindon). 
 „ Petelo Secca (Nkoko). 
 „ Petelo Sumba (Kinibenza) 
 „ Bemba. 
 „ Bolotovo (Kindemba). 
 
 Tusa. 
 Challa. 
 
 Cojji/ of Mr. Stinhi/'s remarks. 
 
 N.B. At Isangila IVIessrs. Morgan, Parmintcr, A'an Kerchoven, and 
 Hortwig were present. 
 
 From Isangila to Luln on South Bank, in presence of Messrs. Morgan 
 and Par m inter. 
 
 Lutete Kuna, a native of Nsanda, present as interpreter. 
 
 Originals sent to Brussels with Mr. Morgan, who sent receipt to 
 Lieutenant Valcke. 
 
 Gen. Goldsmith received copy. 
 
 I received a copy. 
 
 H. M. S.
 
 FOBM OF TBEATIES. 205 
 
 iCopy.) 
 
 ExPKDiTioN Internationale du IIaut-Congo. 
 
 Pallaballa, Vdlh April, 1884. 
 
 . A Supplementary Treaty made this day between H. M. Stanley, Chief 1884. 
 Agent of the Association Internationale Africaine, and the undersigned ■'^l"'' I'J- 
 chiefs of the districts of Pallaballa, to explain the meaning and spirit P:tllaballa. 
 of term " Cession of Territory," found in the Treaty made 8ti2 January 
 1883, between Lt. Van do Veldc and the said chiefs of Pallaballa. 
 
 I. — It if. agreed between the above parties that the term " Cession of 
 Territory " does not mean the purchase of the .soil by the Associa- 
 tion, but the purchase of the suzerainty by the Association, and 
 its just acknowledgment by the undersigned chiefs. 
 
 II. — It is well understood by the undersigne 1 chiefs that the right of 
 arbitration between the chiefs and natives of Pallaballa and all 
 foreigners of any colour or nationality, is conceded to the Associa- 
 tion Internationale Africaine ; that the right of governing, of 
 arranging all matters affecting strangers of any colour or 
 nationality and the natives of Pallaballa ; of deciding in all 
 affairs when appealed to by the undersigned chiefs ; of deciding 
 what Europeans shall .settle in any part of the district of Palla- 
 balla, is conceded in full to the Association Internationale 
 Africaine. The undersigned chiefs also declare themselves as 
 accepting the iiag of the Association Internationale Africaine, 
 as a sign to all men that the Association is their accepted suzerain, 
 and that no other flag shall be hoisted within the limits of the 
 district of Pallaballa. In consideration of which the undersigned 
 chiefs are entitled to and shall receive the monthly pay promised 
 them in the first treaty made with Lt. Van de Velde. 
 
 All these being fully explained to the undersigned chiefs, they have 
 affixed their marks in te>timony of their adhesion to the terms and spirit 
 of this supplementary treaty. 
 
 H. M. Stanley, 
 
 Commanding Expdn. du Haut-Congo. 
 Witnesses — 
 (Signed) Henry Craven. Noso, his X mark. 
 
 Livingstone Mission. Kiangala, his X maik. 
 DuALLA. Talente, his X mark. 
 
 Nefutila, his X mark. 
 Nelombe-Katende, his X mark.
 
 206 - THE CONGO. 
 
 {Copy.) 
 Expedition Internationale du Haut-Congo. 
 
 South Manyanga Station, March 31s^, 1884. 
 
 1884. We, the chiefs Dongosi and Knkuru of Yoonda, sole masters of the 
 
 March 31. fjigtrjct of that name, having applied to Henry M. Stanley, Chief of the 
 Manyauga. Expedition Internationale du Congo, to enter into that confederacy of 
 native chiefs now established between Stanley Pool and South Manyanga, 
 and all the responsibilities and privileges undertaken or enjoyed by the 
 members of that confederacy being explained to us, we hereby enter into 
 an agreement with the said Henry M. Stanley, and bind ourselves, our 
 heirs and successor?, to observe the following articles : — 
 I._We shall keep all roads passing through our district free of duty, tax 
 or impost to all strangers, white or black, who shall have the 
 recommendation or good-will of the Association Internationale 
 Africaine. 
 II. — We surrender all right to collect taxes or imposts to the agents of 
 the said Association. 
 
 III.— We agree to recognize the sovereignty of the said Association, and 
 adopt the flag of the Association, blue, with a golden star, as a sign 
 thereof. 
 
 lY. — We shall refer to the said Association all matters relating to the 
 government, all questions affecting the peace of the country, all 
 troubles between ourselves and neighbours, or between ourselves 
 and strangers of any colour or nationality, to the arbitration and 
 decision of the Agent of the Association Internationale Africaine. 
 
 v.— We declare that we have not made any agreement, oral or written, 
 with any person that would render this agreement null and void in 
 any particular. 
 
 YI. — We declare that from henceforth we and our successors and subjects 
 shall abide by the decision of the Chief-Agent of the Association 
 Internationale Africaine in all matters affecting our welfare, our 
 possessions, or our relations to our neighbours, or strangers of any 
 colour, and that we shall not act contrary to the spirit of this 
 agreement in any particular, on pain of forfeiting all subsidies, 
 gifts, or presents made to us by the agents of the Association. In 
 witness whereof we have sent our confidential servants as our 
 l^roxies to sign this agreement, having understood its contents and 
 given our consent verbally in presence of our people to do and act 
 precisely as the chiefs of Ngombi, Lutete, and Makitu have already 
 done. 
 Witnesses — Mdombasi Luboki, his X mark, 
 
 DoALLA. Proxy for the chief Dongosi. 
 
 Lofunsu li Mbulu, his X mark. 
 
 Proxy for the chief Kuturu.
 
 THE CUT- THRO AT LUTETK 207 
 
 From Mbimbi we descended slowly threading our i884. 
 
 1 11 • •^ ' 1 1 -n J^Iarch. 
 
 way through luxuriant grass until, passing the hill- Mbimbi 
 cone of Kizalu, we crossed the stream to which the 
 natives have no other name to give but the " Stream," 
 or " Njali," from whence we follow a lengthy spur, 
 on which the villages of Mani, Ngoma, Kimbenza, 
 and Mpika, at respectable distances apart, are found 
 secluded amid their own particular banana groves 
 and palms. Banza Mbuba comes next, on a com- 
 manding height ov^erlooking a wilderness of hills, 
 between which, however, there runs a narrow neck, 
 or saddle of a ridge. Nzungi, a village of carriers, 
 lies to the left. Fat black pigs roam about freely 
 amid the abundant ground-nut fields, and Nzungi's 
 position, if anything, is on a breezier hill than that of 
 Mbuba. 
 
 Several lucent streams are passed before we come to 
 Kimpemba, which we find we have viewed several times 
 when on the north bank in our camp at Mpakambendi. 
 It is close to tlie verge of the Congo canon, and a 
 certain grand picturesqueness of view is obtainable. 
 From this spot we soon strike in an oblique direction 
 from the river, into the plain of the Mulwassi River, 
 and up over much reddish land to the more promising 
 uplands of Ngombe', of Lutete'. 
 
 I cannot help smiling when I remember Lutete"s 
 bold remark when he first saw one of our agents in 
 1882. For the pleasure of decapitating the pale-faced 
 man, he was willing to make conditions. Swaggering 
 under a load of palm wine, he affected a loud voice, and
 
 208 TBE CONGO. 
 
 1884. said to the coloured escort, " Give me that white man, 
 
 March. . ,, 
 
 Lutew. and you may go away m peace. 
 
 " What do you wish a white man for ? " asked the 
 men, rather astonished at the unparalleled insolence of 
 the demand. 
 
 " To cut his throat," replied the chief brutally. He 
 had so often levied blackmail on other wayfarers, and 
 badgered them, and this white being looked so innocent 
 and guileless, that to slit such a man's jugular seemed 
 no great crime to him. The escort, however, did not 
 share his opinon, and took him away safely. On the 
 return of the escort, however, towards the Pool, 
 Lutete' laid an ambuscade, and commenced firing. 
 To his utter discomfiture, however, few as were the 
 numbers, they returned a sharp fire, and captured nine 
 of his people, who were kept as prisoners, and for 
 whose release he had to make humble apology. But 
 to-day Lutete presents an example of what may be 
 made of these men. We have a station, a neat and 
 happy station, governed by a British man-of-war's 
 man — a boatswain's mate, who leads as jolly a life as 
 ever he lived aboard any of Her Majesty Queen 
 Victoria's vessels. With onlv twelve men lie lives 
 in peace just one mile away from the " ferocious " 
 chief; and tliis same throat-cutter of two years ago 
 now furnishes carriers and table-servants, besides 
 sending his children to the Baptist School. In fact, he 
 is a most exemplary individual in every i-espect. 
 
 Between Lutete and Mpangu we pass by several 
 villages inhabited by men for whom I have great
 
 GEOLOGICAL EVIDENCES. 209 
 
 regard. Toonda, in the hollow, enchanting for its i88k 
 cosiness and delicious bits of domestic life among the Mpaugu, 
 Bakongo, and lyenzi, with very tall palms, which 
 promise gifts of their effervescing juice, will not soon 
 be forgotten by men who have seen their open spaces 
 shaded by the glorious leafy trees. 
 
 By the time he arrives at Mpangu it will have 
 dawned on the mind of the traveller that both the 
 north and south banks of the Congo originally formed 
 one plateau. And if he has intelligently reflected 
 on what he has seen, he will be able to interpret the 
 geological story told by the deep furrows which time 
 has inscribed in the canon of the Congo, and the com- 
 plicated system of profound gorges trending towards 
 it fi'om the southward and northward. 
 
 For instance, close to Mpangu I stand upon a spot 
 like many I have seen north and south of the river. 
 It is equal in height to the thousand ridges and hill- 
 tops I see around, with the exception, perhaps, of half- 
 a-dozen cones, which may be a few feet higher. A 
 peculiar crevasse near me reveals the nature of the soil 
 for at least 150 feet deep. The sides of the crevasse are 
 perpendicular, a stone dropped from an outsti'etched 
 arm would fall straight to the bottom without being 
 diverted from its course by a single projection. The 
 crevasse is apparently extending ; it has encroached on 
 the public path. At any moment during the rainy 
 season the caravan road at this place may sink to the 
 bottom with the fall of a mass of clayey and sandy 
 conglomerate, which will be pulverised into dust by the 
 Vol. II.— 14
 
 210 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. shock of the descent from such a height. Another rain, 
 Mpanga. ^^1^ the powdcred debris will be swept into the next 
 runnel, thence into the more impetuous stream next to 
 it, and thence into the Congo, to give a little browner 
 colour to the already brown water of the great river. 
 This crevasse will extend deeper into the heart of the 
 narrow plateau ridge on which I stand ; it will yawn 
 wider and wider with each year's rains ; it will then 
 exchange the perpendicular for a slope, and the cre'vasse 
 will become a gully, afterwards a wide ravine, and 
 finally a valley. In a heavy rainstorm it will collect 
 water enough to plough deeper down, until the rock 
 base of this great bed of clay and sand is revealed. 
 
 In such a manner, I understand, has the geological 
 history of this section been disclosed, at least, if I read 
 it in the light of facts obtained by our overland journey. 
 But if I descend into the bottom of the Congo canon, 
 and look up to the precipitous walls of solid rock that 
 frequently are seen rising 200 and 300 feet (as in the 
 Pocock basin, and all along that tortuous narrow 
 channel between Mpakambendi and Mbelo), the ages 
 which have elapsed since the plateau above was frac- 
 tured, carries a calculation back through such an im- 
 measurable time that one would fain relegate the in- 
 computable problem to those savants who find them- 
 selves at home among decimals and recondite conjec- 
 tures. I can see watermarks as high as 1 00 feet above 
 the present water-surface ; and yet the highest river 
 rise cannot exceed twenty feet above its present level ! 
 How many years would be required to wear away
 
 APPEARANCE OF MANYANQA. 211 
 
 rock of such a durable nature eig-lity feet down ? would i«84. 
 be a first question. There is also lava still to be found Mpangu. 
 at low water about Kalulu Falls. Whence has it come ? 
 There have been rock slides, as well as earth falls, 
 and at the Inkissi Falls one may see a complete islet 
 which has dropped down, or rather sunk, an intact 
 mass of rock and earth, a clear 400 feet ! 
 
 It is from amid such scenes as this, between Mpangu 
 and Manyanga, that we view the lofty Mount Beii ; 
 in the distance is Sphynx Rock, a little to the east of 
 it and on the range of a plain grooved deeply by 
 the small tributaries of the Mpioga river, which 
 empties into the Congo below our station of South 
 Manyanga. 
 
 It would be difficult to conceive of a land so fertile 
 as this, and yet presenting such an ungrateful aspect. 
 The valleys are rich, but there is so much slope of red, 
 hard, sterile clay visible everywhere that we are chilled 
 to the heart, as though we were looking at so many 
 blank walls, which hid a fair prospect of luxuriant 
 gardens. 
 
 We stopped long enough at South Manyanga to 
 enable me to cross over to North Manyanga and measure 
 the amount of work performed during my absence at 
 that station since its foundation in 1881. I found it in 
 a " higgledy-piggledy " state, without any order or 
 design, which compelled me to order the new^ chief to 
 pull it all down and rebuild it anew. It was in such 
 a backward condition that any station a month old on 
 the Upper Congo was more advanced. And yet this
 
 212 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. place alone must have cost the Association £10,000 ! 
 
 April 2. , -^ . 
 
 Mauvan<ra. Foi such a suui, and m tliree years, a l^uropean with 
 thirty labourers ouglit to have been able to present 
 something worth viewing ; but here was a " hotch- 
 potch" of rickety-looking structures which one would 
 have imagined to have been made by a lot of poor 
 squatters preparatory to prospecting. 
 
 Here I met Mr. Spencer Burns and the gallant Croat, 
 Mr. Lehrman, fresh from an expedition which they 
 had made from the mouth of the Kwilu. Mr. Lehrman 
 was commissioned with the command of Phillippeville 
 on the Kwilu-Niadi. Mr. Burns, who had specially 
 distinguished himself on this occasion, was sent down to 
 Yivi bv the river, while his natives were led overland 
 along the south bank by myself. 
 
 April 2nd. — We continue our journey from South 
 Manyanga westward, edging away from the chilly 
 gorge, over the well-washed hills, down over the mur- 
 muring waters of the Ngaku, and up along steep slopes 
 to the more fertile levels in the vicinity of Ndunga. 
 
 A few miles beyond this favoured and amiable com- 
 munity of Ndunga we begin the descent into the broad 
 valley of Lukunga, where we are hospitably received by 
 Mr. and Mrs. Ingham, of the Livingstone Mission. I 
 should have washed that my " chiefs, ' who have affected 
 to labour at Manyanga, had seen the pretty little station 
 which this soldier missionary had constructed with half- 
 a-dozen men, or rather, boys. The mission cottage was 
 as dainty within as any residence need be. A spacious 
 garden behind it presented a vivid promise ; a well-
 
 A MISSION-HOME. 213 
 
 kept court or plaza in front was surrounded by store- i884. 
 rooms, kitchen, and schoolroom. Under the shadowy Lukanga. 
 eaves were to be seen the mission children, who have 
 a striking likeness and family resemblance to the black 
 mission children seen at Zanzibar, Sierra Leone, Old 
 Calabar, and the West Indies. They have the same sub- 
 dued air, as though they were impressed with the awful 
 mysteries of the alphabet. I think it rather encouraged 
 me to believe that the Congo climate, even in that low 
 hollow of liukunga, W'as endurable, when I here saw a 
 delicate-looking lady bear herself so bravely. I utter 
 literal truth when I say that my sojourn for twenty 
 hours was enjoyed with the most exquisite pleasure. 
 Ten men might have utterly stripped and carried 
 away the veneer of civilisation on that mission-house, 
 and left it bare and barbarous ; but the art was in 
 the lady's hands, and the rich gift of taste, inherited 
 in far-away England, had diffused attractiveness over 
 the humble home. £100 was probably the value of 
 all I saw, but then the £10,000 expended at Manyanga 
 failed to excite pleasure or admiration in my thoughts. 
 From the cheerful mission-house of Lukunga the 
 caravan climbed the steep slopes leading up to the 
 plateau-land once more. A day's journey carried us 
 over miles of level expanse, which might, if cultivated, 
 supply thousands of people with wheat and corn ; and 
 if its dense crops of wild, tall grasses were superseded 
 by what industry could sow, plant and build over the 
 great waste, then we might see more of beauty and 
 richness displaying the fertility of the soil better than
 
 214 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. the dead monotony of aspect which now enslirouds its 
 
 April 3. p 1 • 
 
 Vombo. potent powers of production. 
 
 Yombo is situateei on the verge of one of these plains 
 overlooking the Lukunga valley ; Mwembe' stands on 
 its western edge. The next day's march takes "us 
 over narrower grassy ridges separated by small 
 streams, until we arrive on the grass-robed plain of 
 Muluangu, whence we descend into the trough of the 
 Kwilu River, which a few years before we ascended 
 in the steam-launch Royal. It is possible to descend 
 to the Congo from the ferry of Kondo, but the navi- 
 gator must beware of hidden snags. 
 
 Beyond the Kwilu we discover the broad valley of 
 the Luima, which is remarkable for its exposed bed of 
 calcite and shale projections. One of these broader 
 valleys may at a future time be utilised for routes to 
 Stanley Pool, as almost all these rivers start from a 
 broad, uniform ridge, which is the water-parting be- 
 tween the tributaries of the Kwa and the Congo. 
 
 Between the valley of the Luima and the next valley 
 — that of the Lunionzo — there is an easy pass by 
 which a railway might lead from Yoonda at the head 
 of the long reach above Isangila. Crossing the Luni- 
 onzo, we pass under the cool sable shades of Ntombo 
 Lukuti grove, and then over a grassy expanse to the 
 station of Banza Manteka. Close by the station is the 
 settlement of the Livingstone Inland Congo Mission, 
 in a steamy hollow, too well sheltered from the breezes 
 blowing over the western uplands. 
 
 From any of the hilly remnants of the ancient con-
 
 THE LUFU VALLEY. 215 
 
 tinuous plateau at Banza Manteka we see the groves i8«*. 
 of many villages, such as Mubangu, Banza Nkosi, wanteka 
 Kinkanzu, Banza Kulu, Ntombo Lukuti. These vil- 
 lages are great producers of ground-nuts, which are 
 carried to the Lower Congo factories to exchange for 
 cloth and gin. 
 
 Six hours took us from Manteka station to Isangila 
 station, where I witnessed much to grieve me, in the 
 inertia under which our own people had fallen through 
 the lack of superintendence. A house remained still 
 unroofed that had been fourteen months building. Into 
 the store-house the rain leaked through the rotten 
 grass roof, spoiling a valuable stock of goods. There 
 were over 400 bales within, yet our gentleman in 
 charge, rather than add to the grass covering or 
 re-roof it completely — which five days would have 
 done — preferred to unroll the bales and dry the 
 cloth ! 
 
 The next valley we meet westward of the Ntombo 
 Lukuti is that of the Lufu, a considerable stream with 
 a rapid current, from whose woody fringes we rise to 
 breast rock-strewn slopes and cross pebble-sown hill- 
 summits, until after a short series of these we thread 
 the twilight aisles of a forest-covered mountain side. 
 Ascending here we view a wild world of ruined upland, 
 rent, torn, fissured and disfigured, in line after line, 
 cone after cone, top after top, until the eye is fastened 
 upon Pallaballa, and Nokki, and Vivi, at such distances 
 that we distinguish only their blanched and meagre 
 outlines. The irregular caiion of the Congo is traced
 
 21^ THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. far below Yivi, On the south side lie these disinte- 
 isancriia. grated heaps of utterly useless land. On the north 
 side the plateaus of Mgangila, Sadika Banzi, and 
 Kionzo present a deceptive appearance of level. 
 
 What a lesson about the climate Europeans could 
 be taught from this tall mountain pulpit ! For here 
 they have before them at one glance of the rough and 
 uninhabitable land the causes which render them weak- 
 knee'd and faint-hearted. With collapsing frames and 
 stomachs feebly nourished by tough goat-meat and 
 insipid bananas, they press on over those heart-breaking 
 hills, with the endless ascents and descents, through 
 winding labyrinths of suffocatingly tall grass, and each 
 time they emerge into light and glare the cruel sun 
 strikes their pale and tender half-dressed bodies, burns 
 their white arms, scorches their necks, and roasts their 
 backs. Presently they are hid from sight at the 
 bottom of grassy tunnels, to issue reeling from the 
 terrible atmosphere of reek and slop and humid heat, 
 to quench their thirst in oceans of cold water from the 
 sparkling runnels that thread the gullies. Some of 
 them, under the fiery impulses of getting on, on, and 
 on, will march their fifteen miles per day, and on arriv- 
 ing at the Pool at the end of their journey, they will 
 turn round and deliberately curse the land, the climate, 
 and the people, but never their own idiotic frenzy. 
 Yet, if I could take them through such a land as this 
 in twenty-four hours, they might live as long in Africa 
 as in moist England. These are the men who in 
 England take cabs and hansoms to drive a mile;
 
 CONGO LA LEMBA. 217 
 
 who partake largely of beer and brandy ; who eat 188+. 
 enormously of beef and mutton ; whose every waking q^^^\ \^ 
 hour is devoted to the consideration of the kind of ^""''''* 
 a lunch or tiffin they will take, or to serious medi- 
 tations upon the best viands to be consumed for dinner ; 
 who have baths frequently ; whose hardest labours 
 have been inditing scented letters to friends ; and 
 whose happiest moments have been passed in ogling 
 the pretty dames of the theatre. Surely, then, this 
 sudden rush, this frantic pace, these endless climbings 
 and furious gulpings of water, do not indicate the 
 wisest course to adopt. It were w^ell to be a little 
 more cool and deliberate in movement than to en- 
 courage these wanton and wilful attempts at suicide. 
 
 A few miles beyond we come to Congo la Lemba, 
 and from this pleasant village we descend to the Luizi 
 valley and river. Yellala mountain is in view on our 
 right, and Pallaballa mountain in our front. The latter 
 we have to climb about a thousand feet, to find our- 
 selves five miles from Yivi, on a height 1700 feet above 
 tlie sea. On this fortress-like plateau a community of 
 natives, in the midst of which another English mission 
 is planted, lives in peace and plenty. Its airs are cool, 
 its atmosphere bland, tlie surface of the earth is a rich 
 reddish loam ; groves of tall trees crown it, affording a 
 grateful shade; plantations of bananas and clusters of 
 palms add to the beauty of the scene ; and good and 
 cool water is found. The native disposition is amiable ; 
 the mission' has its pupils ; and the old chief Nozo 
 has erected a lodging-house for strangers, a miniature
 
 218 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. 
 April. 
 
 caravanserai, the walls of which he has garnished 
 Congo la with ancicnt chromographs for the amusement of his 
 
 Lemba. , 
 
 guests. 
 
 We rest one night amid this respectable community, 
 and take the road next morning for Vivi. We descend 
 about five miles, and from the crest of a hill overlook- 
 
 f^_. J— ^Jfaaa g^TT'T- 
 
 VIEW OF MPOZO STATION AND EIVEB FROM VIVI. 
 
 ing Yellala Falls we view the upper Yivi Rapids, Tivi 
 Station, and all the well-known features of the locality. 
 I seat myself, glass in hand, to scan what improve- 
 ments have been made during our long absence in 
 the interior ; and I confess with regret that I cease 
 from the survey, wishing earnestly that T could sponge 
 out the history of this unhappy place fi-om my tablet
 
 VIVI IN NEGLECT. 219 
 
 of facts. Were it possible to do so, I should be relieved i884. 
 from a burden of knowledge which infects my opinion vivi. 
 of the Europeans. It is unnecessary to select and 
 specify which of these from among the many deserve 
 the lash of censure for their ineptitude. From among 
 the currents of European life that streamed to Vivi 
 in the course of five years, some were fixed here 
 mainly by their own election, others by appointment. 
 But, like him who sat and brooded and grieved over 
 the ruins of Carthage, I can only grieve that my 
 memory is haunted by so many shadows of puerile 
 manhood, and of figures of youth without substance. 
 I have wistfully searched for one small evidence of 
 progress ; one finite proof that a strong and willing 
 soul has attempted to modify the pristine ruggedness 
 of the place, or wrestled with its wilfulness of irregu- 
 larity. Were it but a yard of graded roadway even, 
 or a rocky obstruction pulverized or removed, I should 
 be grateful. But, so far as I can see, not even a 
 hut has been thatched. What a poor result after the 
 passage of 260 Europeans of all nationalities through 
 the station ! Grieving and sad at heart, I continue 
 my descent to Mpozo Station, whence I take boat, and 
 cross over the Congo to Vivi.
 
 220 • THE CONGO. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 TO OSTEND. 
 
 Climate and conduct — Vivi in confusion — A cure for sham illness — 
 Eemoval of the station — Description of the changes at Vivi — General 
 Gordon's probable work — I embark on the Kinsembo — Loango — Sette 
 Gamma — Coast trade — Gaboon Gulf — Fernando Po — The Cameroons 
 — Duke Town — Exploring a great " oil " river — Native chiefs buying 
 iron houses — Bonny — Lagos — Quetta — Sierra Leone — My arrival in 
 London — Eeport to H.M. the King of the Belgians. 
 
 1884. On the Upper Congo the marvellous richness of the 
 vivi, soil seemed to have infused something of its own prolific 
 vigour into the souls of the gallant young gentlemen 
 at Equator Station, Kinshassa, Leopoldville, Mswata, 
 and those detailed for other duties than station 
 building ; and I presume, if this is true, then the ste- 
 rility of the soil around Yivi, and the hard, stern 
 profiles of naked hills, had dwarfed and contracted the 
 souls of those at the latter station. There are people 
 who are so impressionable that they reflect their 
 surroundings. In England, with its moist climate, 
 I am told there is a vast majority of people who 
 are afflicted with a desire to moisten their throats 
 continually with beer ; and I believe Belgium and 
 Germany are very much alike in that respect. But
 
 THE STATE OF VI VI. 221 
 
 in tlie dry Arab lands we have a people who drink i884. 
 but rarely ; in the moist climate of the palmy Congo vivi.' 
 land palm-wine is drunk in prodigious quantities ; but 
 south of the Zambesi we have people who drink but 
 little save a small quantity of milk, or occasionally 
 water. Well, then, perhaps it is the barrenness of 
 Yivi to which the barrenness of results of five years' 
 labour may be attributed ! 
 
 On lauding on its shores I find that the gentlemen 
 of Yivi have erected a store-room and residence for 
 the accountant, close to the " beach." The material 
 mostly has been taken from a frame mansion-house, 
 costing £2000, the other portion of which has been 
 lying nine months- about, and no one seems to 
 know why it came, or what its purpose was. Letters 
 from Europe informed them it was for a hotel for the 
 residents' comfort and convenience ; but then, to a lot 
 of people without a leader, of what use can it possibly 
 be ? So the accountant shall have his share of it ; the 
 carpenter may build a shed out of it; the hospital 
 may have other fragments of it, and the rest may rot ! 
 
 I ascend the original road which was made five 
 'years ago for temporary convenience, to roll my 
 wagons up, and I see that it has remained untouched 
 to this day. On the top of the hill there are two 
 houses less than I built ; the garden is a waste, the 
 fence broken down, the mangoes and papaws and 
 oranges and tropic pears are now large trees, but 
 then that is Nature's work. The houses look squalid, 
 dilapidated and unpainted. There are about twenty-
 
 222 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. five whites, most of whom appear as if they did 
 
 April. 
 
 vivi. not know how on earth they came, or what 
 business they had there. A few bear a truculent 
 scowl on their faces, as though they were labouring 
 under an uncommon load of trouble, which they 
 would gladly shuffle oft' in some manner. At the 
 table cThote I find them all assembled, and when the 
 red wine of Portugal has taken due effect there is 
 a strain of vivacity perceptible in their manner, and* 
 when the meal is finished many of them hasten to bed, 
 even in mid-day. Wine and heat, I observe, make 
 them somnolent. I do not see any work performed, 
 although perhaps the coloured labourers may be doing 
 something in a shiftless manner, since no European is 
 supervising them. 
 
 In the morning, when the matin-bell sounds to 
 muster, I observe there is an extraordinary sick-list; 
 about thirty-five of the coloured people require boluses, 
 potions and salves — ^just thirty per cent, of the entire 
 force ! Fearing an epidemic is raging of which I had 
 heard no report, I examine more closely into their 
 faces, and find — for seventeen years amongst black 
 people furnish one with a great deal of knowledge 
 respecting negro characteristics — that the colour is 
 rich, and their skins freely effusing oil, the eyes are 
 bright also, although the contortions of pain evinced 
 by their features are enough to evoke pity. The 
 veterans from up-river, inured to toil, and who are 
 models of discipline, understand a certain signal, and 
 the steady approach of a dozen of these in martial
 
 CURING SHAM SICKNESS. 223 
 
 array attracts the attention of the sick, tlie crippled, i884. 
 the choh'cal and the dysenteric patients, who no sooner Vivi. 
 see thetn coming than with a rush the doctor's window 
 is cleared. Duke Humphrey of Glo'ster's miraculous 
 cure was only performed on one man, but here were 
 thirty feeble creatures restored to perfect health by 
 merely looking at a few men gravely advancing 
 towards them ! 
 
 Shocked by the condition of Yivi, I resolved to 
 remove it bodily away to the larger plateau. Pre- 
 paratory to this a new road was made, with an easy 
 grade to the Nkusu, which was spanned by a bridge. 
 We then lay a Decauville railway between the two 
 plateaus, and the work of construction of the new 
 station was commenced. 
 
 The new Upper Congo steamer having been dis- 
 mantled, was placed on its several wagons and rolled 
 up the hills from the landing-place to the plateau, and 
 Lieutenant Yalcke having returned from his temporary 
 leave of absence, was constituted chief of the transport 
 force, to convey the steamer to Stanley Pool. 
 
 Reorganisation of the staff was urgently required. 
 Many of the Europeans had not the least idea of 
 their work or of their duties. This was all due, of 
 course, to the fact that the Chief of the Expedition 
 had been absent, and no fit person had appeared able 
 to maintain Yivi in order, and to control such a larjre 
 number of undisciplined whites fresh from their homes 
 in all lands. 
 
 The following quotations from letters to the Pre-
 
 224 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. sident of the Association will serve to explain this 
 Yi^j' and several other matters. 
 
 " Mr. E. Massey Shaw has been appointed Chief of Vivi Station, and 
 Mr, John Eose Troup Chief of Police. 
 
 "Major Parmenter, who was the most superior chief of Yivi we have 
 had yet, was obliged to retire owing to domestic matters at home. He 
 was a man of marvellous industry, but the regret of it is that 1 have 
 lost him just as he was restoring this place to order, which needs a strong 
 man. 
 
 "Mons. Monet's capabilities are of a very high order. He fills the 
 place of the retiring accountant. Mons. del Comune is the Chief 
 Transport Agent of the Lower Congo, and I feel assured the Expedition 
 will feel the benefit of this change. His headquarters will be at Boma, 
 and he will be responsible for all goods received in future, and for the 
 good behaviour of the staff on the steamers." 
 
 " Ynri, 23/-d April. 
 
 "■ Two days ago I reached Yivi, and I have been since in a fever of 
 dismay at what I have seen here. The buildings are precisely as they stood 
 in 1882. I exempt the accountant's, of course, which does look pass- 
 able. I found twenty -five whites here. The new house, which cost 29,000 
 francs, is utterly ruined, many sections of it having been employed for 
 trivial and pitiful purposes. I am informed by a humorous person that 
 each of the many chiefs who have retired during the several months 
 that have elapsed since its arrival has expressed boundless thanks for 
 the gift of the timely and munificent donation. What is left of it, how- 
 ever, now will make a small frame-house or cabin tliirty-five feet long. 
 
 " Two events occurred to-day which inform one greatly of the state of 
 mind these young gentlemen are in who have been so long without a leader. 
 One declares that he will not leave the station, though he has been dis- 
 missed for four gross offences, and miatters strangely about violence. 
 Another says, ' Well, I don't care ; I will go and do that little job at 
 Boma, then I will go home and explain to the Comite.' 
 
 " At dinner-time I took advantage of their presence and delivered a 
 lecture to them upon the lamentable state I discovered the station and 
 themselves were in. I sketched out the state of Yivi as I left it, and 
 how I found it. I repeated the dismal tale of changes and scenes that 
 had occurred in my absence. I took tlie trouble of defining what was 
 generally understood by the term duty, and how each was legally and 
 morally bound to perform that which he had contracted to do to the best 
 of his ability. Mine was to execute the orders of the Committee; theirs 
 to abide by their contracts; if they failed to do so they must abide the 
 conseriucnces. 
 
 " I had arrived at Yivi to bring order out of chaos before leaving the
 
 GENERAL GORDON. 
 
 225 
 
 cornmaiid of tlio Expedition to General Gordon, who will be as little 
 likely to sympathise with indolence and thriftlessuess as I am. 
 
 " We have been so extremely patient, paternal, and lenient with them, 
 and they have been left so long without a chief, that the conduct of 
 some of them has been most shameful. 
 
 " The new steamer ViUe d'Anvers is a capital little steamer, and exceed- 
 ingly staunch. If well looked after she will be a great acquisition. 
 
 " Le Stanley, stern wheeler for the Upper Congo, will be at once dis- 
 mantled for transport to her destination. 
 
 " Mons. del Commune has to-day informed me that he has treated suc- 
 cessfully with the natives of Boma for the Protectorate. Mons. Kirk- 
 hoven has extended our territory until Vivi is now joined to Boma. 
 
 " Between Nokki and Stanley Pool the sovereignty has been ceded to 
 the Association by the native chiefs. Thus, from Boma to the Lubamba 
 
 1884. 
 A\n-i\ 26. 
 
 Vivi. 
 
 MOXS. DKL CUMSrUXE. 
 
 Eiver on the right bank, and thence north to the Kwilu — Niadi, through 
 the efforts of Hanssens, Van de Velde, Destrain, Mickic, Grant Elliott, 
 and Spencer Burns, the territory is all one — intact ; and from Nokki on 
 the left bank to Stanley Falls. Such places as are already unoccupied 
 on the left bank Hanssens will complete by July. Signor Massari goes 
 up tlie Kwa to perform the same services for our political interests. 
 
 "While coming down the south bank, I learned enough to satisfy me 
 that three-fourths of the transport required for up river will be accom- 
 plished by our enlistments of natives ; the rest will go up by north bank 
 as before. Voouda Station, on south bank, will be established to give 
 more employment to the boats on the mid-section of river. 
 
 " I beg to enclose copies of the Treaties securing the sovereignty to the 
 Association of all the districts between Nokki and Stanley Pool, All 
 
 Vol. IL— 15
 
 226 
 
 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1884. 
 April 23. 
 
 Vivi. 
 
 has been done that is possible on the Congo, and Europe should be the 
 theatre of operations now to secure the recognition of the Association by 
 the Powers. 
 
 " I am oWiged to express my surprise that in the letter announcing the 
 immediate departure from Europe of General Gordon for the Congo, no 
 instructions are furnished to me as to what his particular mission is to 
 be here. It would be desirable in a matter of such importance to be told 
 whether he is to be Chief of the Exjiedition, Director-General, Adminis- 
 trator, Special Commissioner, &c., &c. I have received only a few brief 
 ■words introducing a man already well known to me. Before turning 
 over the command to him, it would be well for me to know precisely how 
 to address him in clear and distinct phrase. Fiually, the letter* I received 
 
 LA VITJ.K n'ANVERS STFAMER. 
 
 from himself makes it still more diflBcult forme to understand his mission. 
 I gather from him that he has some views hostile to the slave-trade in 
 the Soudan. A very laudable purpose, undoubtedly, but I am not told 
 
 " BuussELS, G//i January, 1884. 
 "My Dear Mr. Stanley,— 
 
 " His Majesty has asked me to go out and join you in 
 your work, which I have gladly assented to, and come from Lisbon on 
 5th February. I will serve willingly with and under you, and I hojie vou 
 will stay on, and wo will, God helloing, kill the slave-traders in their liaunt,
 
 GENERAL GORDON'S INTENTIONS. 227 
 
 whether we are to abandon tlio Con<^o, and be diverted from onr work of 188 1. 
 settling, extending, and consolidating along this river, to make raids -^l""'' 23. 
 upon Soudanese slave-traders in the Nile basin. In short, the wliole ^ 'vi. 
 affair is very mysterions to me. 
 
 " As I have already intimated to the Committee in October, 18S2, 
 January, July, August, 1883, and January. 1884, my intention of leaving 
 the Congo, according to the original understanding at Brussels in 1878, I 
 have arrived at Vivi, in the strong hope that I should find General 
 Gordon here ; but I hear by this last mail that he has accepted a com- 
 mission under the British Government to go to the Soudan. I am com- 
 pelled to stay here then until I am relieved by a fit person. " 
 
 " Yivi, 11/// May, 1884. 
 
 " Colonel de Winton arrived here a few days ago, since which time he 
 has been occupied in acquiring the knowledge of the details necessary 
 for comprehending thoroughly the situation. 
 
 " Though it is better late than never, I cannot refrain from expressing 
 my keen regret tliat such a person as Col. de Winton was not sent fifteen 
 months ago to assist me. 
 
 " I hope to be able to leave the Congo about the latter part of tl'.is 
 month, by which time Col. de Winton will have understood his duties, 
 and grasped the situation. It will be well to remember that Sir Francis 
 de Winton, as Chief of the Exj)edition, cannot leave the- Lower Congo, 
 otherwise the troubles of Vivi will commence again. An occasional 
 residence at Leopoldville, and an inspection of the intermediate route, 
 will be all that is necessary. You may rely on Capt. Haussens fulfilling 
 his mission well on the Upper Congo," 
 
 " Yivi, June 2i,d, 1884. 
 
 " The new station at Yivi is advancing rapidly. Five houses have 
 been erected, and a banana plantation set out. The bridge is a great 
 success. A railway connects old Yivi with the new place, though to be 
 completed we ought to have about 500 yards more of rails. 
 
 " The steamer Le Stinhy is now six miles from here. The hauling 
 force numbers 269, of whom 10 per cent, will be daily ailing." 
 
 for if we act together in the countries where they hunt, and make treaties 
 with the chiefs, we can prevent their raids and truly stop the slave-trade, 
 All the slavers are now engaged with Baker & Co., and so if we can {D. V.) 
 push on we will find the field free. 
 
 " No such efl[icacious means of cutting at root of slave-trade ever was 
 presented as that which God has, I trust, opened out to us through the 
 kind disinterestedness of His Majesty. 
 
 " Yours sincerely, in haste, 
 
 "(5/(/ne(0C. G.Gordon."
 
 228 
 
 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1884. 
 June 8. 
 
 " Banana Point, June 8th, 1884. 
 
 " I have to inform you that I left Vivi on the 6th of June, accompanied 
 
 Banana Pt. -^j Qq| gjj. Francis de Winton. At Boma I saw your new Sanatorium. 
 
 I admire very much the building and its position, and Dr. Allard's 
 
 devotedness and provision for sick men's comforts deserve great praise. 
 
 It is really like a respectable hotel." 
 
 OAPT. HANSSENS. 
 
 On the 10th of June the British and African 
 titeamer Kinsemho departed from Banana Creek north- 
 ward along the const, and as I had a strong curiosity 
 to understand more of West Africa, and to compare 
 it with tlie Congo banks, I proceeded with lier as 
 a passenger. 1 do not propose to give more tlian a 
 few useful jottings by the way.
 
 LANDANA. 
 
 229 
 
 Seven hours' steaming brought us to Limdana, a i884. 
 beautiful place judging irom the external view. White u!^^^^^, 
 factories, alternate with dark green njasses of vege- 
 tation. From the summit of a tree-clothed upland 
 peeps out the mission of the French peres, whose 
 gardens and orchards of fruit-trees are admired by all 
 visitors. The next day at 4 p.m. we halt at a cluster 
 
 LANDANA, 
 
 of factories called Black Point, and after receiving 
 a certain amount of produce, pass on to Loango, 
 which we reach at noon on the 12tli. Here I receive 
 reports from the officer in cliarge of the Kwilu-Niadi 
 division. On the 13th we anchor abreast of Myumba, 
 or Mayomba, a fine baylet open to the west, and 
 the next day's run brings us to Sette Camma, situate
 
 230 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884 
 Jane 13 
 
 south of a river called Sette. The huge breakers 
 jrumba I'oliing and pounding the shore do not deter the 
 shippers, who bring jauncheons of palm-oil and rubber, 
 and a young gorilla on board. The 15th brings us 
 to Impango, where there is a custom-house established, 
 as we have now entered abreast the Gaboon colony. 
 On the 16th we arrive in the Gaboon Gulf, and 
 
 ANNORCfJI.^C^^"''^^'' 
 
 FROM AMI5RIZ TO TIIK CAMKltOONS. 
 
 anchor abreast of the town of that name, which is 
 the seat of Government for the French colony. There 
 are also present in the roadstead a guardship and 
 three French men-of-war, four colliers, a few small 
 coast and harbour steamers and lighters. On shore, 
 conspicuously in view, aie three brickbuilt Government 
 buildings, a brick church with a corrugated iron 
 roof, a great pile of coal, and the commencement of
 
 FERNANDO PO. 231 
 
 the erection of a stone pier. An irregular line of ih84. 
 
 June 15. 
 
 buildings attached to eight or ten factories, a French Gaboon. 
 (Catholic), and an American (Protestant) mission, 
 with a small store or two, and a boarding-house, show 
 us the whole of the French settlement established 
 since 1842. Mangoes planted perhaps some sixteen or 
 twenty years ago are also conspicuous for their globes 
 of dense foliage, and are seen in uniform lines in front 
 of the mission and public buildings. Altogether the 
 aspect of the place is pretty and agreeable. The 
 little hills along the shore, dotted with white houses 
 and green groves, shining clear amid tropical vege- 
 tation, assist the general attractiveness of the view. 
 
 On the 18th we arrived at Elobey Island (Spanish), 
 situated at the entrance to the River Muni in Corisco 
 Bay. The island is about an hour and a half's march 
 in circumference. German and English factories 
 absorb most of the trade, which is all similar in 
 character. Four or five small steamers coast about 
 collecting produce. 
 
 From Elobey Islet we strike west to deep water, 
 and rounding Cape S. Juan bear northward to 
 Fernando Po, a lofty island in the Bight of Benin. 
 We anchor in Clarence Cove, a rifle-shot distance 
 from shore. The island is called after its discoverer 
 Fernando-Poo, a Portuguese. It is about 600 square 
 miles in superficial extent, and principally famous for 
 its towering cone, whose summit is 10,190 feet above 
 the sea. Westward about twenty miles the Mount 
 Albeit of the Cameroons Mountains begins, and lifts
 
 232 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 1884. its bold outline to the height of 13,800 feet. The 
 
 Ke'rando lower slopes and shores of Fernando Po are a marvel 
 
 ^°" of tropical vegetation ; but the upper tracts appear to 
 
 be grassy and denuded of trees. The inhabitants seem 
 
 to be more degraded and forbidding in features than 
 
 any I have seen in Congo-lands. 
 
 The 21st of June we arrived at Duke Town in the 
 Old Calabar or Cross River. This is said to be one 
 
 OLD CALABAR FACTORIES, KEAR DUKE TOWIT. 
 
 of the best oil-producing rivers. About 500 ca.sks 
 of palm-oil had been shipped only a week before we 
 arrived, and there was a freight of 300 casks ready 
 for the Kinsemho. As a cask weighs about 15 cwt., 
 it may be imagined what tonnage of palm oil leaves 
 this river. 
 
 Through the kindness of the traders I was enabled 
 to proceed up and "explore" this oil river. For
 
 Duke 
 Town. 
 
 EXPLORING AN OIL RIVER. 233 
 
 company I had Mr. James Munroe, Dr. Mackenzie, i884. 
 Mr. Albert Gil lis, and Captain Jolly, of the Kinsemho. 
 I saw Creek Town, and a Scotch mission there. We 
 Avandered amid sea- washed creeks, and then returned 
 to Duke Town. The sketch on the opposite page will 
 enable the reader to imagine Duke Town. But what 
 struck me was its miniature reproduction of the 
 Upper Congo. Could I have been suddenly lifted 
 in the En Avant at night, and deposited on the river 
 near Ikunitu, I should have seen nothing very dif- 
 ferent to the scenes which the darkness of night liad 
 hidden from me. There were the same palms, perpen- 
 dicular, inclined, or fallen over into the stream; the 
 same density of forest, the same sweetly green verdure, 
 the same rich reddish loam, the same kind of clear- 
 ings, and the same architecture of huts. But at Duke 
 Town and Creek Town I observed a sight which was 
 priceless to me. I saw that the residences of the 
 native chiefs had been constructed in England, and 
 transported section by section and erected here — one 
 costing £4000, one £3000, one £2000. This was the 
 result of peaceful barter of palm-oil — corrugated iron 
 buildings for African chiefs ! They were furnished, 
 too, in European style with carpets, chairs, mirrors and 
 window cTU'tains ! Conquer that horror of the march 
 from Vivi to the Stanley Pool, and I can conceive Ngal- 
 yema, Makabi, Bankwa, Ibaka, Mangombo, Mugwala, 
 Mata Bwyki, and a host of Upper Congo chiefs order- 
 ing corrugated iron houses and furniture from Europe 
 for their ivory, their palm-oil, tlieir rubber, their gum^
 
 234 TEE CONGO. 
 
 1884. camwood powder, orchilla weed, beeswax, 2:rains and 
 
 June 24. . ^ ' ^ ' ',..,. 
 
 Duke spices. Duke Town shows now remarkable a civuiser 
 is fair trade. There is no government here. Now 
 and then a man-of-war steams up and returns. The 
 Consul was absent^ but still all lived in unity and 
 concord. 
 
 On the 28th of June tlie Kinsembo anchored in 
 Bonny River. The great hulk Adriatic, commanded 
 by Captain Bell, lifts its giant form, and displays the 
 magnificent model of one of the old Collins's Trans- 
 Atlantic steamers. At Bonny, also, there are bouses 
 worth £3000, owned by native chiefs. There is a 
 cluster of factories on shore : numbers of old hulks 
 are in the river, and a prosperous trade seems to keep 
 every one busy in one of the saddest and most gloomy 
 climates I have ever experienced. The great fear of 
 the climate, however, is vanishing from the minds of 
 men. The factors live well, and in comfortable houses. 
 It is the fashion now to build corrugated iron houses, 
 framed within with wood, and appropriately furnished. 
 One inhabited by Mr. Whitehouse, 50 by 34 feet, 
 possessed a covered verandah 11 feet broad, which 
 is as near perfection as the genius of its designer had 
 attained. Another story added, and each story three 
 feet higher, with uniform and prudent life, and a fuller 
 conquest would be achieved over the vitiated and 
 destructive atmosphere which clings to the muddy 
 shores of the rivers in the Bight of Benin. 
 
 From Bonny River, which is the main channel to 
 New Calabar River, we proceed north-west, and
 
 FROM THE NIGER TO OSTEND. 
 
 235 
 
 anchor on the 2nd of July in the roadstead ten miles i884. 
 off Benin River. BeniuT:, 
 
 The steamers Blafra^ Dodo, and Formosa, were 
 discovered at anchor. While rolling in the troughs 
 of large and languid sea- waves undulating shoreward, 
 
 CVerttelf 
 
 (PorUL^-uSe) •y-^"! 
 
 FROM THE NIGER TO OSTEND. 
 
 the produce from the Benin River conveyed by the 
 Dodo M'as transferred to the Kinsembo, while continued 
 rains wetted the decks and cargo, and imparted a 
 gloomy feeling by their tedious monotony. The next
 
 236 THE CONGO. 
 
 juT*2 ^^^y ^'^® ^^- Loanda appeared from England with 
 Benin R. datcs up to the 11th of June. 
 
 On the 5th we passed Lagos roadstead, where three 
 steamers and two saiHng vessels were at anchor, and 
 on the 6th we arrived off Quettah. By this time the 
 Kinsembo, collecting produce at these various small 
 ports, had been well nigh filled by the bountiful ship- 
 ments from the Bonny and Benin Rivers. Nun 
 River, the main channel of the Niger, we did not see, 
 owing to the inscrutable bye-law^s which govern these 
 various steamship lines from Liverpool. The local 
 news at Quettah is that a white man has been 
 sentenced to eighteen months' imprisonment for whip- 
 ping a negro ! At Bay Beach we passed the Moice, 
 a German war vessel, at anchor. 
 
 On the 12th we arrived at Sierra Leone. My 
 friend, the harbour-master, who once mistook my 
 steamer for a pirate ship, is still flourishing, and Her 
 Majesty's coloured subjects still continue to dwell with 
 exasperating emphasis on the merits of " this colony." 
 Captain Jolly, of the Klnsembo, however, differs from 
 the coloured gentlemen of Sierra Leone. He obtained 
 a slight hint that there was a pestilence in the town, 
 and hastily proceeded to sea after only a three hours' 
 stoppage, and we thus saw the last of the African 
 continent. 
 
 On the 29th of July the directing managers of the 
 British and African Steamship Company kindly 23er- 
 mitted the Kinsembo to land me at Plymouth, whence 
 I hastened to London. Four days later I presented
 
 EFFORT TO E.M. KING L'EOPOLB. 237 
 
 my report to His Majesty the King of the Belgians, i884. 
 who was spending the summer at Ostend, that the sien-a 
 mission he had given me to perform in the Congo 
 Basin was accomphshed, with vastly greater success 
 than the most sanguine of those gentlemen who sat 
 iii the Council held at the Royal Palace in Decem- 
 ber, 1878, could ever have anticipated; and I have no 
 reason to believe that His Majesty was displeased with 
 the results of these long years of bitter labour.
 
 238 TEE CONGO. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXIV. 
 
 EUROPEANS IN AFRICA. 
 
 Eiu'opean opinion of African life — Repelled by the absence of comforts — 
 " Amour propre " and "susceptibilities " — Few heroes of labour — 
 Extravagant hopes — " Bah ! I did not come for work " — Types of 
 neglected and prosperous stations ■ — Malingering — Unintelligent 
 workers — " Nothing like whisky ! " — " Sojering " — A happier theme 
 — The earnest workers of the expedition — New aspirants — Young 
 officers in search of adventures— A sad accident — Our j)hysician — A 
 plucky Scot — The way to gain a good reputation. 
 
 Europeans " When in EuroDG we Were men who believed ourselves 
 
 in Africa. ■•■ 
 
 capable of heroic work and immense effort, could we 
 but have the opportunity of proving our strength, our 
 natural wit, our native valour, our acquired intelligence, 
 and our fortitude under privations; but, alas! when 
 we landed in Africa, we discovered that most of us 
 were without nerve, without wit or fortitude ; that 
 our streno-th and much, of our native valour on which 
 we had prided ourselves had vanished, and that our 
 acquired intelligence was valueless, since we had 
 never known the practical art of living away from the 
 guardianship and sympathy of our parents ; and when 
 privations confronted us we completely collapsed." 
 Such a confession might be truthfully written by some
 
 AFRICAN LIFE, 239 
 
 of the young men who returned home, after the dis- Europeans 
 covery that they had simply been seduced by their own 
 fancies and super-fervid imaginations to believe that 
 their limited experience of a few smoothly gliding 
 years in their own perfect lands had prepared them 
 for the rough life of the pioneer in Equatorial Africa. 
 
 As they appeared on the Congo, one after another, 
 singly or in threes, or in larger groups, supremely 
 ardent, grandly proud that at last the mettle of 
 which they boasted was about to be proved in distant 
 Africa, it was an interesting study to note how the 
 sudden or slow descents to far below zero — often from 
 the topmost altitude of assurance — were effected ; to 
 observe how the exaggerated anticipations, by which 
 they had duped themselves, took quick flight before 
 the revelations of reality. 
 
 Instead of meeting the usual conveniences of civili- 
 sation, which they seem to have taken for granted 
 already existed, they found themselves confronted and 
 repelled by the task of preparing these for later 
 comers, and by the drudgery and toil it involved. 
 They were quite prepared to enjoy the labour of the 
 earliest pioneers, but they were extremely loth to 
 undertake to do for their successors what they had 
 inconsiderately assumed was already accomplished for 
 themselves. 
 
 In the presence of this astonishing revelation I be^an 
 to hear w^ords and phrases that sounded strangely to me, 
 because I had been abroad, alone for so many years 
 that I had well-nigh forgotten them. These were
 
 240 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans ^'"amour-propre" — self-love ? " susceptibilities" — vanity ? 
 
 in Africa. ■, . ■> n f ^ ^•^ ii* 
 
 which were shot forth like so many delicate antennae, 
 and when touched by the imperative necessity of some 
 one being appointed to undertake the work caused them 
 to shrink back offended and alarmed if a delicate hint 
 was given that it was their " turn." Little by little 
 we discovered that these magnificent men not only 
 lacked the necessary attainments, but were also most 
 poor in the spirit of endeavour. 
 
 Of those heroes of labour who distinguished them- 
 selves by intense striving in the work-markets of 
 Europe, I encountered but a few. Of those noble 
 aspirants for bread or for honour of whom we read so 
 much about in the annals of industry, I regret to say it 
 was not my good fortune to meet many examples. For 
 the first three years I may say their number was only 
 about four per cent. And the rest — well, they did not 
 allow me to forget their existence. 
 
 Can any man have read this book so far as these 
 pages, and taken into due consideration the character 
 and nature of our work, without readily perceiving 
 and admitting how very necessary a strong and willing 
 soul was to me in the matter of assistance, how such 
 would have been honoured and blessed by me, how 
 devoutly I should have admired him for his devoted- 
 ness, and courted his company for the vital value 
 of his presence ? 
 
 Many Europeans no doubt succumbed from physical 
 weakness ; others had simply mistaken their vocation. 
 The influence of the wine or beer, which at the first
 
 EXTR4VAGANT HOPES. 241 
 
 offset irom Europe had acted on their impulses like Europeans 
 
 . . in Africn. 
 
 the effect of quinine on weakened nerves, soon evapo- 
 rated in a wineless land, and with their general igno- 
 rance of adaptation to foreign circumstances, and a 
 steady need of the exhilarating influence of customary 
 stimulants, an unconquerahle depression usurped the 
 high-blown courage it inspired, which some called 
 nostalgia, and some hypochondria. Many had also, as 
 they themselves confessed, come out merely to see the 
 river ; their imaginations had run riot amid herds of 
 elephants, lions, buffaloes, and hippopotami, while the 
 tall lithe-necked giraffe and the graceful zebra occupied 
 the foreground of those most unrieal pictures. Their 
 senses had also been fired by the looks of love and ad- 
 miration cast on them by their sweethearts, as they 
 declared their intention to " go out to the Congo," while 
 many a pleasing hour must have been spent as together 
 they examined the strange equipments, the elephant- 
 rifles, the penetrative "Express," and desciibed in 
 glowing terms their life in the far-off palmy lands 
 watered by the winding Ikelemba or the mighty Congo. 
 Thus they had deluded themselves as well as tlie 
 Comite', whose Members looked up with eyes of com- 
 mendation, as the inspired heroes delivered with bated 
 breath their unalterable resolution " to do or die." 
 
 But death was slow to attack the valorous braves 
 while the do able lay largely extended before them. 
 The latter was always present with its exas23erating 
 plainness, its undeniable imperativeness which affronted 
 their "susceptibilities," and ignored tlieir titles and 
 Vol. it.— in
 
 242 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans their liglits to distinction. The stern every-day reality, 
 
 in Africa. t ^ n t • i t i ill 
 
 the meagre diet and the lorbidding aspect, hnmbled 
 their presumjjtion. When they hear that in this land 
 there is neither wine, nor beer, nor comforting cognac 
 to relieve the gnawing distressful hankering they suf- 
 fered for their usual beverage, their hearts beat more 
 feebly ; and they see that those bright African images 
 and beautiful dreams of tropic scenery and excitement 
 are replaced by unknown breadths of roadless regions, 
 exuberant only with tall spear-grass and jungly 
 scrub. The hot sun dares them to the trial of forcing 
 a way through sucli scarcely penetrable growth ; but 
 the distance and fatigue, seeming to be immense, over- 
 masters their resolution ; and, alas ! there are no fair 
 maidens with golden hair to admire their noble efforts 
 at doing and dying. 
 
 Conscience, or the prickings of shame, may whisper 
 to a few not quite abandoned and shameless, that there 
 is brave work to be performed, and that they may 
 experience the colonist's pleasure of seeing the vege- 
 tables and fruit-trees and plants grow instead of that 
 cane grass and jungle now covering the broad acreage. 
 
 " Bah ! I did not come to work ; I came to hunt, 
 to play, to eat, and to receive a big salary from the 
 Comite'," some answer. 
 
 " Do you feel fatigued ? Try some hot tea or 
 coffee." 
 
 "What!" shriek they. "Try Congo water! No, 
 thank you ; my stomach was made for something better 
 than to be a nest for young crocodiles."
 
 EQUIPMENT OF A STATION. 243 
 
 Let me illustrate a few instances. One, who has Europeans 
 loudly professed himself to be heroic, is conducted to 
 the site of a station. Forty docile, disciplined black 
 men are delivered over to his control. Three com- 
 panions of white colour are allotted to his assistance. 
 A stack of bales of cloth, bags of beads, and enough 
 brass-wire to ballast a large boat are given to him as 
 currency to barter, and to put into circulation with the 
 aborigines for provisions such as the country may fur- 
 nish. The river close by swarms with fish which, if he 
 will, he may catch ; the villages around about possess 
 fowls, among which, doubtless, laying hens will be 
 found ; sheep and goats are also procurable, and a 
 sufficient number of she-goats will supply him and his 
 white companions with fresh milk ; the natives in the 
 neighbourhood will sell him sweet potatoes, which 
 when boiled or fried, roasted or stewed, are nutritious ; 
 fields of cassava are extensive, and its edible root may 
 be prepared in a variety of agreeable ways. Tomatoes, 
 beans and pumpkins are not difficult to obtain, which, 
 augmented by a store of rice, tinned vegetables and 
 w beaten flour, besides tea, coffee, butter, jam, and con- 
 densed milk, tinned fish, meats and soups from Europe, 
 may well permit a sumptuous diet to be enjoyed, 
 provided there is a little exertion and personal superin- 
 tendence directed in the preparation of the food. 
 
 To start the station fairly, we build a strong block- 
 house and a native village before our departure, to 
 house the whites and their goods. Milch-goats are 
 collected, and laying hens are purchased. The abori-
 
 244 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans glnes 'AVQ invited to a solemn palaver, at which both , 
 
 in Africa. . ...,., ,, 
 
 whites and natives are initiated into the groove ox 
 social relationship. 
 
 The instructions, few and simple, to him are : " See 
 now, sir, this is your domain, legitimately acquired. It 
 has become, by the power invested in you as chief, your 
 estate, over which you have absolute control, subject to 
 none other than myself. I must leave you as master 
 and sole arbiter in all questions. Let justice attend 
 your dealings ; be kind to your people, for remem- 
 ber you are their father and their mother. Show 
 me on my return that a fit choice was made when I 
 selected you. By industry you may make your place 
 a model to be followed by others less experienced than 
 yourself; by due care you may make it the happiest 
 place in Africa. You have sufficient native moneys, 
 and abundant provisions. On this paper you will see 
 the plan which I wish you to follow." 
 
 I am absent ten months from the scene, but I find on 
 ray return that the condition of the place is far worse 
 than when I departed. The warm promises made by 
 him created in me an ideal paradise ; but instead of my 
 bright, and, alas ! too florid an ideal, I see the wild 
 grass has overrun our native village, so that it is 
 scarcely visible. Not one house has been added to those 
 structures we had raised for him. The station is also 
 in a state of siege ; a palisaded circle shows that once 
 an alarm had bestirred him to spasmodic action ; famine 
 beleaguers the garrison ; four days searching far and 
 wide only brings enough to last a few hours ; the stores
 
 NEGLECTED STATIONS. 245 
 
 are empty ; there are only enough brass rods to last Europeans 
 three days. The natives leave him and his station so 
 severel}' alone that he is in actual risk of starvation. 
 What a great contrast it is altogether to that beautiful 
 ideal of mine! How very reverse to those glowing- 
 promises, letters, and reports ! 
 
 " Why, how is this ? Good heavens, this is a very 
 ruin of a place!" I exclaim. '* See the village — the 
 road, the street, the station, is buried in grass !" 
 
 Oh, this is a too harsh vibration on the fine-fibred 
 susceptibilities ! The immaculate and stiff-starched 
 gentleman cannot, and will not, stand this. He writes : 
 " I have the honour to send you my resignation ;" 
 which, of course, is accepted, for he is too high- 
 stomached to accept a position where he will be less 
 harmful, and which I would willingly give him, so that 
 he would be powerless for harm. 
 
 A change of masters brought about a happy result. 
 The station soon began to be worthy of its importance. 
 There are now large flocks of sheep and goats browsing 
 around it ; scores of fowls and ducks in the fowl-yard. 
 The table meriu is as good as that which might be 
 obtained at any second-class hotel in Europe. A grand 
 market is held every morning in the plaza of the station, 
 where I can see the little ebon children play at my 
 door. From the assembly of native women, 500 persons 
 could purchase fresh native bread every twenty-four 
 hours. The houses devoted to the accommodation of 
 the officers are 630 feet of aggregate length ; the gar- 
 den is about 200 acres in extent, where there are 3000
 
 246 . THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans banaiifis, 500 papaw-trees, and lime, orange, giiava, and 
 
 111 Africa. . ^ . , . 
 
 mango trees, m a flourishing condition. European and 
 native sweet potatoes, yams, and a variety of vegetables 
 are produced in sufficient quantities. Nine thousand 
 square feet are devoted to a grand esplanade, and the 
 approach to the station is along a broad, clear road. 
 All these results, with other numerous improvements, 
 prove the character of the changes which patient in- 
 dustry, in conjunction with wakeful diligence, can create 
 in a wilderness. 
 
 In the above will be found the type of those exter- 
 nally magnificent creatures who suffered from an in- 
 curable hunger for a diet which rustic Africa could not 
 furnish in its present stage of undevelopment ; and who 
 were unwilling, despite fair wages and bounden duty, 
 to practise a little exertion to start the improvement of 
 their position. On the contrary, they allowed unnatural 
 bilious humours to ferment within them until they 
 became a living eyesore to their friends and .a torment 
 to themselves. 
 
 Another type of futile manhood was the malingerer. 
 The art was carried to perfection by one who deceived 
 every one for weeks, and might — so annoying to some 
 men is unnecessary rupture and rage — have protracted 
 his skilful shamming to an indefinite length of time, 
 had he not voluntarily ended a long period of successful 
 malingering by an abrupt and unexpected letter of 
 resignation. Nine weeks had this cunning artist prac- 
 tised his histrionic art to perfection ! What soothing 
 blandishments had I not lavished on the first artful
 
 MALINGERING. 247 
 
 dodger who chose to ply his art on the Congo ? The Europeans 
 
 Til ni •• ,. in Africa. 
 
 number oi paces i had walked on my visits to him 
 during his supposed affliction by computation amounted 
 to several miles. The value of the medical stores, 
 condensed milk, jam, tmai'malade, butter, soups, wine, 
 biscuits, which were held in reserve for men who — 
 sickened of goat-meat and cassava bread, accompanied 
 by hourly transitions from heat to cold — required the 
 delicacies which were consumed by this specious rogue, 
 amounted to some hundreds of pounds sterling. When 
 he assumes the air of a convalescent, what promises of 
 promotion are not made to him ? What encourage- 
 ments are not held out to him when he adopts the tone 
 of one being discouraged by protracted sickness ? How 
 strenuously I lay myself out to dissipate his mock 
 moodiness and dispute his hypothetic unfitness ! And, 
 when the medical luxuries are nearly exhausted, and 
 signs of worn-out patience are visible, he rounds it all 
 oif with a letter of resignation ! 
 
 In few but intelligent phrases he is told to dismiss 
 all hopes of an early return to the coast — something is 
 muttered of an unfulfilled contract, services due, excel- 
 lent shamming, necessity of caution, triangle, &c. And 
 our " artful dodger " is seen at work half an hour later, 
 with jacket off and sleeves rolled up ; and his after his- 
 tory contains a good deal of work fitly done. 
 
 Another of these Europeans;, who have troubled me 
 not a little, can be best described by an extract from my 
 diary dated October 14, 1880. 
 
 " Poor man — let us call him Frank — like all other un-
 
 248 THE CONGO. 
 
 Kuropeaus intelligent men, regards lils beautifully easy life on the 
 Congo as almost unendurable. Were he the sole reporter 
 of his experiences since last November, people would 
 scarcely credit the fact that Africa was pretty well ex- 
 plored, so many new discoveries could be furnish them 
 with — of the soul-harrowing kind. His face daily in- 
 creases in length, and seems to approach day by day 
 nearer in resemblance to the melancholy features of 
 Don Quixote, which I have seen somewhere. And with 
 increasing length of face there is an increasing ill- 
 humour. But sick men are always peevish and grumble, 
 and are notorious for entertaining unjust feeling towards 
 their physicians. 
 
 " The conditions of a healthy enjoyment of life in 
 Africa, are very little understood, if at all, by 'Frank' 
 and his class. It is a difficult thing to impart to them 
 the rudiments of the lesson of life. It is a most thank- 
 less task, and the effort is so ungraciously received that 
 I have been often repelled by the visible signs of non- 
 appreciation. Rarely have I been encouraged to pro- 
 ceed by those to whom counsel was addressed. They do 
 not seem to take any interest in what concerns their own 
 health. They duly acknowledge that it is a duty they 
 owe to themselves to be as careful as possible, and to 
 be prudent and circumspect ; they are civil in their re- 
 plies, and are ready with promises of amendment. But 
 they never practise what they promise, and that active 
 zeal and watchful prudence which would seem to govern 
 one who loves his own life I never see exhibited. The 
 performance appears to be too irksome, and neither their
 
 UNINTELLIGENT WORKEItS. 249 
 
 intelligence nor their conscience are provoked to assist Europeans 
 them. I remember Frank Pocock also, on the second 
 expedition, who must (almost as the sound of my advice 
 died away) have been meditating on that step by which 
 lie lost his life, and caused me for months a pang of 
 sorrow, each time I thought of. his sad end. 
 
 " I have observed also that not only in matters of self- 
 preservation is this apathy evident, but that it is present 
 in the every-day duties of the expedition, which they 
 are pledged to perform, and for which they receive re- 
 muneration. Any single order they will perform well 
 and creditably ; but if I accompany it with the expres- 
 sion of a hope that they will consider it as a daily duty, 
 the order becomes at once inoperative, for it is never 
 observed. 
 
 " If I command a native to convey such and such a 
 box to a certain camp, and assist him with it until he 
 feels its weight properly balanced on his head, off he 
 departs cheerfully, and deposits the box faithfully ac- 
 cording to the order. But if I add, " and on your return 
 take this box also in the same manner," experience has 
 taught me that. I have tasked his memory or his intelli- 
 gence beyond his capacity, for I shall undoubtedly be 
 compelled to await his coming, and repeat the opera- 
 tion of placing a box on his head. In the same manner 
 if I tell Europeans, who in Europe would be supposed 
 to possess sufficient intelligence to understand any 
 reasonable order of the kind, to mend all sails, tar- 
 paulins, tents, or baggage-covers, the order to do so is 
 never observed, but any particular rent in a tarpaulin.
 
 25Q THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans tent, 01 baggage-covei' indicated will be repaired to my 
 
 in Africa. . „ . ^-^ • n -r i l -r 
 
 satisfaction. Or if I say to such a person : 'Just cast 
 your eye about tlie camp, and see what ought to be 
 done,' I have discovered that such an order is too 
 general to be followed ; but any particular order will 
 be mechanically obeyed. A promise of promotion, or 
 higher pay, or a display of tender solicitude, create no 
 impression, and as yet I know no motive powerful 
 enough to excite the European or West African abori- 
 gine to distinguish himself by what I call an assiduous 
 interest in his work. The only people on whom my 
 words take due effect and create a prolonged impression 
 are the foreign coloured employes. 
 
 " Now, to what may I attribute this absence of intelli- 
 gent interest in their work which is characteristic of 
 the European and the West Coast native ? Is it to 
 the climate? Then why does it not affect i\lbert and 
 myself? I admit to enjoying a vitality unusual to me 
 in Europe — to a buoyant feeling, to an irresistible 
 desire to be on the move, for bodily activity, and for 
 personal exertion of every description. As for Albert, 
 he is never otherwise than full of life and action." 
 
 But perhaps Frank and others may feel strange 
 yet, or— 
 
 " May be they are not well. 
 Infirmity doth still neglect all office 
 "Whereto our health is bound ; we are not ourselves 
 When nature, being oppressed, commands the mind 
 To suffer with the body. I'll forbear 
 
 To take the indisposed and sickly fit 
 For the sound man."
 
 "NOTHING LIKE WHISKY." 251 
 
 But of all the rabid absurdities I have encountered Europeans 
 
 in Africa, 
 
 in the tropics, the preaching of a young fool on the 
 merits of intoxicants, who has heard from some old fool 
 that there is nothing like whisky, astonishes me most. 
 Mr. Puifyface, while in a semi-maudlin state, has been 
 heard declaring, in the hearing of our youthful enthu- 
 siast, that " after fourteen years acquaintance with 
 the African fever, despite all that may be said against 
 it, there is nothing like whisky after all for the curing 
 of it." It reminds me very much of what I heard in 
 the ague regions of the South-western States, and recalls 
 to my memory the South-western saddle-bag witli its 
 inevitable whisky-bottle. But, for the benefit of the 
 after-comers, let me prick this bloated bubble. Show 
 me one of these old bloaters oh the West Coast of Africa, 
 and I will show you a sham and a delusion ; I will 
 prove to him and to all spectators that his supposed 
 immunity does not rise from his devotion to whisky, 
 but simply to his expertness in the art known to 
 nautical men as " sojerlng." A few hours hard work or 
 marching in the interior would lay the lazy lion as low 
 as a dead donkey. Gin and whisky " topers " have 
 lived long elsewhere than on the Niger and the Congo. 
 But if you meet him on the African coast, a glance at 
 his shirt or linen, after twelve hours wearing, will tell 
 the whole truth to you as clearly as similar evidence 
 would be deemed invaluable by a police-detective. You 
 will be able to gauge the amount of bodily exertion he 
 has been undergoing. If it is free from stains of body 
 exudation, then he has been simply " sojering," and it
 
 252 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans would tlieii be difficult to say how long a time must 
 
 in Africa. ir> it 
 
 elapse before the liver shows a deadly abcess, or 
 becomes indurated. But, if you want to do humanity 
 a kindness, trot him out with you on a ten-mile march 
 through the African wilderness, and then note the result. 
 A little war which occurred between traders and iiatives 
 lately on the African coast, supplied me with valuable 
 details, which seemed to be of no special interest to any 
 one but to myself, as confirmatory evidences. 
 
 With us on the Congo, where men must work, and 
 bodily movement is compulsory, the very atmosphere 
 seems to be fatally hostile to the physique of men who 
 pin their faith on whisky, gin, and brandy. They in- 
 variably succumb, and are a constant source of expense. 
 Even if they are not finally buried out of sight and out 
 of memory, they are so utterly helpless, diseases germi- 
 nate with such frightful rapidity, symptoms of insanity 
 are numerous ; and, with mind vacant and body semi- 
 paralysed, they are hurried homeward to mak6 room for 
 more vahiable substitutes, lest they draw down a few 
 more objurgatory phrases on Africa, which should be 
 justly applied to themselves. 
 
 Military commanders during their campaigns or 
 manoeuvres, great journals which have despatched a 
 body of special correspondents to report the incidents 
 attending these campaigns, large firms who have com- 
 missioned a number of travellers to secure business, 
 wealthy companies who own numerous factories along 
 the African coast, will all have good reason to know 
 the great difference that exists between man and man,
 
 "LIQUOBING UP." 253 
 
 of those under authority or in their employ. They Europeans 
 will doubtless know what hroad lines may be drawn 
 between the one who " lushes," or " perpetually sips," 
 and who seems to think tliat the whole duty of man 
 lies in " liquoring up," and the sober, earnest worker, 
 who knows when to temper the harsher experience of 
 life with a needful sedative or stimulant. 
 
 If I in this genial manner relate my experience of 
 the last six years, it is most certainly not with a view 
 of making allusions to any of those who fell by the 
 way, or were returned to Europe. Far from it. That 
 would be too painful ; sufficient for those who were 
 failures have been the consequences to themselves. 
 Their o\vn sins have in many cases proved their 
 Nemesis. If any have scented after impurities, or 
 wallowed in mud, proved incompetent and intemperate, 
 or bristled over with susceptibilities, allowed spleen to 
 mar their prospects, or been indifferent to their duties, 
 lacked manliness or were of depraved nature, all I can 
 say is — may their own regrets be their reward. 
 
 It is well, however, for many of them that the ex- 
 pedition did not belong to some national government, 
 otherwise extreme measures would often liave been 
 taken to curb the excessive licentiousness to which 
 some were too prone, and punish severely the many sins 
 of omission and commission of which some were guilty. 
 All we could do was to discharge them quickly, to keep 
 the expedition as pure as possible. That good order 
 and quiet prevailed generally was only due to the 
 rigorous exercise of the sole means we possessed io
 
 254 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans enforcG due respect to moral laws. But had we in our 
 service on the lower river some superior officer, capable 
 not only of governing men, but also of self-government, 
 much that shocked and grieved me during the first 
 four years would have been impossible. 
 
 The evils of brandy and soda in India need only to 
 be remembered to prove how pernicious is the suicidal 
 habit of indulgence in drinking alcoholic liquors in hot 
 climates. The West Coast of Africa is also too much 
 indebted to the ruin effected by intemperance ; and 
 despite the frequent reprieves given by a generous 
 government — furloughs of six months after only a 
 service of twelve months — valuable lives are destroyed. 
 
 But it is my belief that the other extreme is unwise. 
 To abstain entirely from drinking wine because intem- 
 perance is madness is by no means what I endeavour to 
 inculcate, nor even do I recommend what is called 
 moderation. Once we admit this last word, irreflective 
 people may suppose that I advocate " liquoring up " 
 moderately at any time, provided the imbiber always 
 keeps within the limits of sobriety. I suggest nothing 
 of the kind. In the tropics I advise no one during the 
 hours of daylight to touch liquor, unless a medical man 
 23rescribes a certain quantity to be taken when it is 
 absolutely necessary ; that wine — good red or white 
 wine — should be taken only after sunset, at dinner; 
 half-a-pint, watered, if more agreeable, is what I con- 
 sider as a moderate quantity, that may be safely taken 
 as soothing to the nerves, and provoking early sleep. 
 After a full night's rest one will rise with a clear head,
 
 FAITHFUL OFFICERS. 255 
 
 clean tongue, and can as easily do a full day's work in Europeans 
 
 . . T • 1 '"^ Africa. 
 
 the tropics as he can in temperate latitudes. 
 
 But now let us turn to a happier theme, and en- 
 deavour to show that human nature is not all weak and 
 vile. There are scores of officers now on the Congo who 
 are distinguished for their gallantry and moral courage, 
 and for the noble virtues of manliness and steady well- 
 doing. It is a proud and pleasing task to me to review 
 the unblemished careers of those who have served their 
 term faithfully and with honour, though it is still too 
 early to speak of many most promising among those 
 who yet remain there. 
 
 The first who served his full term well and honour- 
 ably was Albert Christopherson, a young Danish 
 mariner. He came out in July 1879, and returned 
 home in July 1882. From the first starting of the 
 flotilla from Banana Point to the founding of Mswata 
 Station and the discovery of Lake Leopold IL, he 
 accompanied me. Ever prompt in duty, uniformly 
 civil in his deportment, he proved himself to be a 
 young man who gloried in his strengtli and enjoyed 
 his African life intensel}^ The first year he could not 
 impress the foreign African employes with his value^ as 
 the country, its manners and language, were all novel 
 to him ; but as soon as he understood sufficiently the 
 vocabulary, he was not long before he became a general 
 favourite with our employes, and his frank manners and 
 hearty manliness won the hearts of the aborigines. 
 
 There was no duty such as one of his capacity could 
 perform that he did not carry out with willingness and 
 thoroughness. When requested to undertake any dut}^,
 
 256 THE CONGO. 
 
 Euioiicaus if he gave me an affirmative — lie seemed to Lave a 
 certain code of honour to which he rehgiously adhered 
 — I never had reason to doubt that the work should 
 he done conformably with the order, barring accidents. 
 Had his education and other attainments been equal to 
 his goodwill, Albert Christopherson would to-day have 
 been in an enviable position. The young fellow was 
 as free from the stupid vice common to most of his 
 callinir as his constitution was free from defect. A 
 Paladin for his strength, perfect in good humour, 
 almost boyish in his frankness, he taught the natives to 
 discern in him from amongst the Europeans a guileless 
 friend.* 
 
 The next was Captain Anderson, a Scandinavian 
 mariner. He also served a term of three years. Tlie 
 very movement of this man was a great pleasure to me. 
 No coloured employe' could resist, in his presence, the 
 wish to do his level best. When he lent a hand to 
 haul a heavily-weighted wagon up a steep hill, his 
 keen eye glanced along the lines of tugging, panting 
 
 * I remember one day that a moody Zanzibar! appeared before me to 
 complain of Albert for having stnick him. His lips were swollen and face 
 disfigured, as evidence that something unusual had occurred during my 
 absence. Albert was called, and appeared with his sleeves rolled up 
 above the elbows— a fair-skinned young giant. 
 
 " Well, what is this, Albert ? I hear you have been striking this man ?*' 
 " Yes, sir, I have. This man had been boasting to his fellows that he 
 could tackle me, and he sought an occasion of it, by language and looks of 
 defiance, when I told him to be a little more lively. The last time I told 
 him so I gave him a little push, when he at once turned on me in a box- 
 ing attitude, learned among the sailors at Zanzibar, I suppose. I could 
 scarcely believe it, but, seeing every one else look up, I saw that the whole 
 thing was planned by Kungurugwa for a little sport. I gave him one 
 from the shoulder, which felled him. He was some time coming to, and 
 he did not try another round."
 
 MR. A. B. SWINBURNE, CHIEF OF KINSHASSA STATION.
 
 MR. A. B. SWINBURNE. 257 
 
 men, and detected immediately the slack arm and Europeans 
 almost despairing owner. To this place he sprang with 
 a shout, threw himself forward, and by his gestures 
 inspired the company to renewed effort, until the hill's 
 summit was at last attained. While another might 
 have stormed and threatened, and become frantic with 
 rage, he merely electrified his company by the healthy 
 spirit of work that was in him. 
 
 Captain Anderson had been too long in command of 
 ships not to know the value set upon honest goodwill 
 in the performance of duty, consequently he knew no 
 shirking, and thus left the Congo w'\\\\ an unexception- 
 ably good character, and a more substantial testimonial 
 for excellent service rendered. 
 
 The third is Mr. A. B. Swinburne, formerly a student 
 of Christ's Hospital, London. He has now served forty- 
 one months on the Congo, first as clerk, then as camp 
 storekeeper, and afterwards as chief of Isangila station. 
 Young as he was, he constructed the first brick store- 
 house above Boma, and was the only station chief who 
 could for some years be taught that a vegetable garden 
 was a valuable adjunct to a station. He impressed me 
 very favourably by his gentleness and his quiet, mild 
 disposition, by wliich he effected a marked impression 
 on the aborigines in the neighbourhood of his station. 
 His small company grew attached to him — there was 
 peace, and an utter absence of jarring in his place, until 
 it grew to resemble a family circle. His house afforded 
 a quiet, cool resting-place for people bound up-river. 
 The little decorations and finical " nattiness " bespoke 
 
 Vol. n.— 17
 
 258 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans the yoiiiig" creuture fresh from home influences. On 
 
 in Africa. , , i i i 
 
 his spare bed one could repose surrounded by a neat- 
 ness which conjured up memories of civilisation. 
 
 The Congo canon, with its chill winds, proved at last 
 too depressing for him ; he was sent to Enghmd to 
 recruit. But, after only a lew weeks' stay, he returned 
 af^-ain, bringing with him a large detachment of coloured 
 recruits, which he led to Stanley Pool in good order. 
 He was then appointed to Kinshassa station, and was 
 the best young man that could have been chosen for 
 the peculiar qualities of sweetness and gentleness, which 
 endeared him to black and white. Being a man who 
 had the moral courage not to resent native arrogance 
 with pistol shots, the place was safe. From the day he 
 planted his flag there, noisy clamour and suspicion were 
 hushed, and the Association had gained an important 
 post through the qualities which alone could have won 
 and maintained it in peace.* 
 
 * A letter from Mr. Swinburne, January 1885, relates what progress 
 lie has made in gardening, which will be interesting to those who wish to 
 know what may be grown in Central Africa : — 
 
 " If I had only a sufficient variety of seed I could have almost anything 
 here. The ground is really splend'd, and most favourable to European 
 vegetables. A few English potatoes Teuz gave me are in an advanced 
 state. I tried an experiment with them by cutting shoots, and sticking 
 them in the ground ; and the other day I pulled wyi one, and was astonished 
 to find three potatoes of the size of marbles : the originals are thriving, 
 though they had been carried all the way from England here. The 
 eschalots are magnificent. I have also a small field of rice, another of 
 sorghum, another of Indian corn of prodigious growth. Sugar-cane is 
 abundant. Cabbage, onions, carrots, English turnips, cress, and parsley 
 and parsnips, have been tried successfully. At Leopoldville they are 
 doing wonders at gardening. The mangoes, oranges, and papaws are 
 springing up almost visibly. Dr. Sims is pleased with his coffee experi- 
 ments. A gardener is coming, from whom I shall bog more eeed."
 
 FRANCOIS FLAMINI. 259 
 
 The last of the first pioneers was Francois Flamini, an Europeans 
 
 T T n^^ • 1 T 1 1 • • • '° Africa. 
 
 Itahan. i his was also a hard-working, striving man — 
 a mechanician who concentrated his affections on his 
 wife and his engine. With the last piece of mechanism, 
 he proved himself in beautiful harmony, judging by the 
 happy results : the senseless iron seemed to respond to 
 his love; it obeyed him, it seemed to sympathise with 
 him. 'J'o it I believe he disclosed the fact that he had 
 a supreme love for a woman who was in far blue-skied 
 Italy, but it was not so absorbing that he and it could 
 not do their duty. Therefore they laboured lovingly, 
 affectionately together, without discord or jar. For the 
 first time I possessed a delicate little engine, which, 
 though slight and slenderly made, ran smoothly yet 
 perfectly, while the patient soul of Flamini affectionately 
 governed its motions. 
 
 Among the later arrivals on the Congo to fill the 
 void created by desertions and disease there are nume- 
 rous aspirants of superior rank, intelligence, and 
 capacity, and the equal of the first pioneers in their 
 devotion. 
 
 When the International African Association assumed 
 direction over our affairs in the western part of Africa, 
 the Comite d'Etudes du Haut Congo was displaced by 
 the Comite' of the Internationale Association du Congo, 
 which carried on the vast work inaugurated under the 
 auspices of the president and officers of the Comite 
 d'Etudes du Haut Congo. The first to arrive were 
 Belgian military officers, who, able to obtain leave, 
 utiHsed their leave of absence by enlarging their views
 
 260 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans witli tlie lessoiis derived from 
 
 in Africa. , . 
 
 Africa. 
 
 From among their ranks the worthiest men advance 
 steadily to the front, " fit to do anything or go any- 
 where," as the English say when with laudation of their 
 gallant soldiers they close their festivals. I name these 
 at random, not necessarily according to merit : Captain 
 Hanssens, Lieuts. Yalcke, Janssen, Parfoury, Grang, 
 Yangele', Coquilhat, Destrain, Dr. Allard, &c. 
 
 Captain Hanssens, besides the mechanical duty of 
 paying exact military obedience, possesses the com- 
 mendable forward spirit of proving himself above the 
 common place. His impulse is to aspire to show his 
 fitness and capacity. With a lofty mind he overcomes 
 the harsh unlovely matter of his surroundings, and 
 disdains to notice the numberless wearying though 
 trivial impediments to the perfect enjoyment of the life 
 he has chosen. Before adventuring into the region he 
 seems to have taken pains to reflect upon the character 
 of the life he was to lead, and clothed himself with the 
 only armour that would be proof against the pitiful 
 circumstances that he would meet, viz., an honourable 
 moral courage. He comes amongst us well prepared 
 to find that as yet there are no grand hotels with their 
 captivating menus and luxurious chambers. There- 
 fore he enters his tent or his thatched cabin and seats 
 himself between mud walls with a collected dignity as 
 though he had a life-long experience of the camp of 
 a pioneer. If he is ordered on an expedition into 
 unknown districts to build stations he sets about it in
 
 CAPTAIN HANS SENS. 261 
 
 a workmanlike manner ; lie omits nothing in the memo- Europeai.i 
 randa, from a needle to a rifle ; and when he departs 
 the compactness and completeness of his column is our 
 assurance of his success, and we hear no more of him 
 until we receive his happy bulletin. 
 
 Lieut. Yalcke was an earlier comer into our ranks — 
 a mere youth from the engineer corps, wherein, strange 
 to say, Captain Hanssens was his examiner. His first 
 essay in pioneering was but feeble. He was asked to 
 blast about a dozen rocks that were in the roadway at 
 Ngoma. He fell sick, and was afterwards put in charge 
 of our first camp at Isangila, where his inexperience 
 of practical details in the conduct of the camp and con- 
 tinued ill-health caused him to be sent back to Yivi. 
 
 Kept there for six months to acquire a little more 
 experience, he was then permitted to join the advance 
 party. He was taken to Stanley Pool on a reconnais- 
 sance, where we learned that a few more articles of 
 finery would be a boon, and consequently he was de- 
 spatched to Loanda to purchase these, and to return 
 with them as quickly as possible. He bought the goods 
 and shipped them to me, but he himself, falling ill 
 again, departed homewards. 
 
 I have no further knowledge of him until eighteen 
 months later, in January 1883. He has grown more 
 manly in appearance, and, though doubting his ability, 
 I despatch him on a little mission, which I am com- 
 pelled to admit is well performed. I try him in a 
 different field, and here also, although it is unusual 
 for him, there is an exhibition of intelligence and
 
 262 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans pleasing fidelity. Merit wins quick promotion in 
 
 in Africa. . ,,. •■ii-p 
 
 sucli a work as ours. Lieut. Valcke is appointed chiei 
 of Le'opoldville, which sadly needed some man of 
 calibre ; and in a little over two months a wonderful 
 change has come ov'er the most important station of 
 the Upper Congo. The rising buildings, the expanding 
 terrace, the utter absence of discord, prove that the 
 place has found a fit master. There are no complaints 
 from Europeans of poor diet, no murmurs from native 
 employe's of severity and cruel injustice, nor do I hear 
 of any controversies with the aborigines. The plaza 
 is alive with marketing and innocent chaffering; the 
 aboriginal chiefs are in perfect confidence assembled 
 by his side ; the garden is green with growing bananas, 
 plots of potatoes and other vegetables ; the caravans are 
 regular in their coming and going, and the store-rooms 
 are filled with goods and provisions. 
 
 Then comes a different trial. Yivi, the only weak 
 link in an otherwise j)erfect chain of stations, is in dis- 
 order for want of a similar faithful agent. The letters 
 from the lower river show thai there is a crying need 
 for the presence of some one possessing firmness and 
 capacity. Lieutenant Yalcke is selected with full 
 powers to act as my deputy, and the effect of his 
 presence is such that I am enabled to devote my atten- 
 tion to the pressing duties up-river. He is hastened 
 to his duties at Leopoldville, which by this time is the 
 centre of a large area, and in the district of Stanley 
 Pool there are three other stations, directed by the 
 presiding officer of the principal station. Hence this
 
 LIEUTENANT VALCKE. 
 
 263 
 
 group of" four stations, influencing an area of 2000 Europeans 
 square miles, is called the Division of Stanley Pool, the 
 political interests of which are becoming of greater 
 importance every day, so tliat only a person of tried 
 ability can be intrusted with it. Lieutenant Valcke is 
 
 LIEUTENANT VALCKK. 
 
 therefore appointed Divisional Commander. For five 
 months lie governs it admirably, and executes the 
 various and manifold duties whicli the government of 
 such a constantly fermented district implies, wiih pre- 
 cision, intelligence, and unflurried patience. From 
 none of the two scores of chieftains of Bnmbundu,
 
 264 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans Bateke, aiid Babari do I hear the shghtest whisper of 
 
 in Africa. . 
 
 dissatisiaction. 
 
 Finally comes the last trial of his abilities. The 
 sectional steamer Le Stanley for the Upper Congo 
 has arrived. By a fatal accident to Captain Anderson 
 we are deprived of that officer's invaluable services. 
 Captain Hanssens is appointed to a mission requiring 
 certain abilities which eminently distinguish him alone. 
 Therefore Lieutenant Yalcke is selected for the serious 
 task of transporting the vessel overland to Stanley 
 Pool. With sufficient power such a task is by no means 
 difficult ; it is the exasperating tedium of operations 
 which include the transport of the sections piece by 
 piece, the oft-repeated marching and counter-marching, 
 the painful care of the countless miscellanea attached 
 to the steamer (the loss of a single atom of whicli 
 might lead to grave consequences), which, united with 
 many other troublesome manoeuvres, make the respon- 
 sibilities attaching to the work most onerous. That 
 he was not unequal even to this mission is proved by 
 his arrival with the steamer halfway, at last accounts, 
 to Stanley Pool. He is still very young, but the 
 qualities that have marked him are neither common 
 nor usual ; and no doubt this well-deserved recognition 
 of such merits as he has developed will spur him on in 
 a career which to-day abounds with hope. 
 
 Lieutenants Yangele and Coquilhat are a pair of 
 most promising young officers of the Belgian army, 
 who have employed their "leave" manfully. Few 
 officers in Belgium will ever be called u|)on to dis-
 
 CONGO LIFE VERSUS BARRACK LIFE. 205 
 
 tinguisli themselves in the manner English officers Europeans 
 
 111 1* ITT I- «/>• ^^ Africa. 
 
 are called upon to do in the indies and m Africa, 
 or like the French in Tonquin, Madagascar, Tunis and 
 Algiers, and the Americans in the sjDacious West. A 
 barrack life from youth to old age, it appears to me, 
 with all its charms of uniform and military title, can- 
 not offer the advantages and excitements which the 
 adventurous young and brave crave after with an in- 
 
 LIRUTENANT VANGELE. 
 
 satiable hunger. It may suit the predilection of some 
 to be the warders and armed police of order and peace 
 in a quiet country like Belgium ; but, in whatever 
 civilised country the literature of adventure is diffused, 
 there must be many young men whose hearts beat 
 high as they read the stirring tales — 
 
 " Of moYing accidents by flood and field, 
 0/ hair-breadth 'scapes i' the imminent deadly breach." 
 
 Incipient chivalry is found in numerous youthful 
 
 breasts, well fired of the daily routine of marching
 
 266 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans froiii bariack to park, and park to barrack, with no 
 
 in Africa. , . , 
 
 higner purpose than being drilled. To be drilled 
 from year to year, from tlie cradle to the grave ! 
 Good heavens! think of some 500 millions of Asiatics, 
 300 millions of Africans, and 50 millions of Indians 
 and Pacific Islanders requiring some small share of 
 that drill which is so lavishly given to thousands of 
 accomplished ofticers, who perhaps would be better for 
 a little less of the training and a little more of the 
 sight-seeing in the big world without ! 
 
 So the young officers came out to Africa, both un- 
 speakably excited at the prospect oi' adventures iii the 
 far interior. Like many others, they had but a dim 
 idea of the real truth ; still, when the vain fancies had 
 vanished, there w-as enough of sterling vv^orth found 
 in them. They became sobei'ed by the grim painful 
 realities of wretched diet, and the intercourse with 
 the unlovely natures of thousands of savage brutalised 
 beings among whom they had to live, often putting 
 their natural politeness to a hard test. With their 
 ignorance of native languages, they could only discern 
 the kernels of the humanities which they met. They 
 had to learn the meaning of Ba, Ki, and Wa and M, 
 and no sooner had these profound studies been mastered 
 than they were pushed amongst other tribes whose 
 gabble sounded excessively unintelligible ; and before 
 long they were shifted still higher up the river; but 
 little by little they detected, by the slim knowledge 
 they had gained, that underneath these crude bronze 
 masks of faces there beat warm impulses varying
 
 LIEUTENANTS VANGELE AND COQUILHAT. 267 
 
 from anger to joy, hate to friendship. And lo ! wliat Europeans 
 
 111 Alrica. 
 
 with honest striving and fast purpose, the goal of 
 happy contentment was reached in triumph. 
 
 Now if gold medals should ever be struck by tlie 
 Association to reward industry, Lieut. Yangele' should 
 receive the first and Lieut. Coquilhat the second, for 
 the construction of the best well-made station on the 
 Upper Congo. These two officers are the founders of 
 
 LIEUTENAKT COQUILHAT. 
 
 Equator Station. To know the intrinsic value of the 
 rich land of Africa, visitors cannot begin their estimate 
 until they see the bananas grow in the fat soil around 
 this station. 
 
 An accident, sad in the extreme, dej^iiN'od mQ of a 
 brilliant young officer after he had shown nearly three 
 years of assiduous effort to win an honourable name 
 for gallantry, good conduct, and industry. This young- 
 gentleman was Eugene Janssen, lieutenant in the Royal 
 Belgian Army. He had come out as inexperienced as
 
 268 THE CONGO. 
 
 Euiopeans a boj. Ill eighteen months he was so far ahead of his 
 compeers that he was selected to occupy Mswata, near 
 the confluence of the Kwa and the Congo. After fifteen 
 months at this place he had been so successful as a com- 
 mandant, through his gentle arts of pleasing suasion, 
 tliat old Grobila, the chief, consulted him in everything 
 he undertook. He had become the pet of old and 
 young, male and female, and his sobriquet, the "AVhite 
 
 LIEUTENANT JANSSEN. 
 
 Chicken," had been borne up the river for a distance of 
 500 miles, as the name of one who was the good friend 
 of all. The canoes fastened at the landing-place of his 
 station, either bound up or going down river, contained 
 hundreds who had simply halted to say good day to 
 Nsusu-Mpembe (white chicken). 
 
 He was requested to build a station a little higher up 
 than Mswata, and to show the Abbe Gruyot a portion 
 of ground where he might have his mission-house 
 erected. Their canoes, returning in a hurry to Mswata
 
 LIEUTENANT PARFOURY. 269 
 
 in the teeth of a gale of wind, foundered when opposite Europeans 
 Ganchu's Point, and botli the young lieutenant and the 
 Abbe, with several of the coloured men, were drowned. 
 One of the most excellent men was Lieut. Parfoury. 
 He lived long enough to show that in him were con- 
 tained all the elements that make men greatly esteemed 
 for intrinsic worth, moral bravery, and the indefatig- 
 able spirit of capacity ; and yet, being a little indiscreet 
 
 LIEUTENANT PARFOURY. 
 
 one day under a burning sun, he was gone from us, 
 just as I was beginning to feel comforted at the 
 number of worthy men flocking to the standard of the 
 Association in Africa. 
 
 Another estimable, honest soul was Lieut. Grang. 
 For fifty days he lived in the same camp with me, and 
 during this period I had gathered, by the light such close 
 intercourse with him had given me, that I could count a 
 true^an in him ; for every spring within his character 
 was set moving by downright honesty — honest motives,
 
 270 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans and lionest intentions. In all his composition tliere was 
 
 in Africa. .,.,-, ■, T tt- 
 
 not a gram s- weight but what was pure manhuess. Mis 
 frame was as grand and true as his nature. And yet, 
 while I was ouly waiting for a few finishing touches to 
 a steamer that was building in the port of Leopold ville, 
 to take hi in with me — he was too trusty a man to be 
 left behind wlien the Upper Congo was still vacant — 
 he forgot something at a camp ten miles from Leopold- 
 
 LIEUTENANT GRA^■G. 
 
 ville. Travelling back in a pelting rain-storm which 
 overtook him, he was wetted, and afterwards chilled 
 for want of an immediate change of clothing. He fell 
 ill, and daily grew worse, and the first grave at Leopold- 
 ville was dug to bury the remains of this noble man. 
 
 Dr. AUard deserves warm praise from me, as one of 
 the most amiable men living, and as one of the most 
 painstaking physicians it has been my lot to meet. To 
 some men worlc is as necessary as food, and to this 
 gentleman's active mind any restraint in the pursuit
 
 DB. ALLARD. 271 
 
 of some task it had set upon accomplishing would be a Europeans 
 cruel deprivation. Fortunately we have been able 
 to accommodate him in this lespect ; and the con- 
 struction of the hospital at Boma has been an intense 
 gratification to him. It was essential for the general 
 good of wayworn travellers and sick officers that some 
 such commodious building as this, with its ample 
 verandah, airy rooms, and civihsed conveniences, should 
 
 DR. ALLARD. 
 
 be within easy reach of men distressed by bodily fatigue, 
 enervated by climate, or reduced by wretched diet. 
 But without Dr. Allard it would have been most diffi- 
 cult to have found a person on tlie Congo capable of 
 directing the construction. To him, however, it was 
 a labour of ove, and a sick man must indeed be far 
 gone if, with Dr. Allard's cheeriness and the pleasant 
 surroundings of bed, board, and attention, he cannot 
 recover. Years of acquaintance with him have but 
 deepened my sense of his rare and invaluable qualities.
 
 272 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans I slioulcl mention Lieut. Destrain and Mr. Hodister, 
 
 in Africa. 
 
 of tlie Kwilu-Niadi Valley, as further examples of man- 
 liness and indefatigability among the Belgians ; but I 
 have no intimate knowledge of these gentlemen. I 
 infer so much from the number of years they have 
 •been engaged in the service, from the reports of officers 
 from that locality and from a knowledge of Destrain's 
 frequent tours of inspection and survey in the valley, 
 and the value of the details which he has furnished 
 to us. 
 
 Among the later British arrivals who have been 
 conspicuous for their capacity and their all-round fit- 
 ness for special fields of labour — although it would be 
 premature as yet to detail at large their services — are 
 Captain Seymour Saulez, Major Francis Yetch, Major 
 Parmenter, Mr. E. Massey Shaw, Mr. Spenser Burns, 
 Mr. John Rose Troup, and Engineer Binnie. 
 
 Captain Saulez, on Lieutenant Yalcke's appoint- 
 ment to the command of Le Stanley Transport Force, 
 assumed the command of the Divisional District of 
 Stanley Pool. He has been tried only for a few 
 months, but, although the district was at one time the 
 centre of an adverse effort, he has contrived through 
 his calm behaviour and consistent, watchful, prudent 
 conduct to preserve the peace. 
 
 Major Yetch is the chief officer of the Native Trans- 
 port. To him is intrusted the conveyance of the ten 
 tons of goods and provisions, sent monthly from Yivi 
 to Stanley Pool along the south bank. He is a greai 
 favourite with the natives, and tlie most onerous,
 
 BRITISH OFFICERS. 273 
 
 services have been uniformly and unexceptionally well Europeans 
 
 - , in Africa. 
 
 rendered. 
 
 Every one who has come in contact with Major 
 Parmenter has been impressed by his extreme suavity 
 of manner. From some of those whose evidence may 
 be considered of weight, I have learned that he is 
 regarded as " a complete gentleman." To which I 
 must add the very favourable impressions derived from 
 his reports, which I venture to say were the fullest 
 and the most detailed descriptions of events occurring 
 at Yivi that I ever received. While he was in charge 
 of our lower station, every courier bore a perfect 
 record of events, written in an excellent, nervous style, 
 through which I felt that Yivi was drawn nearer 
 to me, and within my control. Personally I have not 
 had the pleasure of seeing him. 
 
 Mr. E. Massey Shaw, of London, deserves honourable 
 mention at my hands for some months of excellent 
 governorship of Yivi during a term which, I fear, gave 
 him more pain and anxiety than comfort or pleasure. 
 For his sturdy, calm conduct under distressing cir- 
 cumstances, this hearty acknowledgment is due him. 
 We had been unfortunate enough to have accepted the 
 services of an applicant who, through an alleged long 
 term of service in the United States Navy formerly, 
 and latterly as American consul at St. Paul de Loanda, 
 was supposed to be well worthy of this important 
 appointment. If one may judge by results, a very 
 serious error was committed by me when I accepted this 
 person and appointed him to Yivi. After a short, but 
 YoL. II.— 18
 
 274 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans disastroiis term, he was dismissed. To repair the many 
 
 in Africa. . , . „ , . 
 
 mischiefs resulting from mismanagement, and to restore 
 confidence in the minds of the panic-stricken natives 
 and frightened employe's, was a task which fell to his 
 successor, Mr. Shaw. Vivi had received such a check in 
 its career that rebuilding was slow work, consequently 
 Mr. Shaw has not had a fair opportunity to distinguish 
 himself. While expressing my utter dissatisfaction 
 with the state of our principal station on the Congo 
 in April 1884, I entirely absolve Mr. Shaw from blame 
 for its condition. I would rather express my pleasure 
 at the visible signs of restored confidence which I met 
 after my loug absence in the interior, and which was 
 solely due to Mr. Shaw's excellent temper and method 
 of treatment. 
 
 It is my belief that in Mr. John Eose Troup we 
 have a thoroughly good officer. No doubt in a short 
 time, as opportunities offer, his services will be more 
 fully recognised, and a position befitting his superior 
 qualities may be found for him. 
 
 Mr. Spenser Burns has unfortunately been out of my 
 immediate control, otherwise my very short acquaint- 
 ance with him leads me to believe he would have held 
 a prominent place in the record of notable and worthy 
 pioneers. 
 
 And now, before closing the list of the British 
 worthies on the Congo, I come to a little Scotchman 
 named Binnie, a hero in spirit, and, although physi- 
 cally not of heroic mould, great as the greatest in 
 courage. Those who read the account of how I estab-
 
 LEFT ALONE. 275 
 
 HsLed Stanley Falls station and left this mite of a FAnopoans 
 
 1 iii*i 1 r- k f ' 1 •"•Africa. 
 
 volunteeraii alone in the very heart of Africa, removed 
 a twenty days' journey from the nearest station, and 
 doomed to at least six months' isolation from the sym- 
 pathetic world, with only the thought of a large work 
 before him, while his only companionship had to be 
 found among some 1500 barbarians 400 yards off on 
 the same island, with more than 10,000 within easy 
 reach of him, will at once acknowledge that the brave 
 heart merits h(mourable notice here. 
 
 Though it might be supposed that when he volun- 
 teered he knew not that " he was taking arms 
 against a sea of troubles;" but when at parting the 
 tears stood in his eyes, it was a proof that the little 
 fellow was fully conscious that he was in a critical 
 position. 
 
 I know not what his " bringings up " may have been, 
 but, as he was a Scotchman, he may have learnt a 
 prayer in his childhood ; and it may be that his feeling 
 of loneliness that first evening recalled half- forgotten 
 words, and forced him to his knees in the silence of his 
 thatched hut. I cannot say, for I have not seen him 
 since I saw the tears in his eyes over a year ago. 
 
 But on the steamer's return, the little man was 
 discovered to have done nobly. He had enlarged his 
 possessions ; he had extended his clearing, and built 
 an entire village ; he had been planting and making 
 gardens, and the savage natives round about him 
 acknowledged him as their friend. Binnie was the 
 umpire in all arguments, the arbiter in all political
 
 276 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeans controversies — in short, he was tlie general referee in 
 all the disputes which occurred in the locality. 
 
 This case of manly endeavour ought surely to be 
 taken to heart by some of the many puling fellows who 
 returned to their homes and friends to curse Africa and 
 to frame excuses for their own utter want of the quality 
 which raises a man from the low level of incapacity. 
 Here was an engine-driver who volunteered from his 
 lathe at a Scottish machinis s', and came out to Africa 
 — by no means a strong man, not quite nine stone in 
 weight — to win bread for his old mother. He rises to 
 the top rank of proper men through sheer pluck and 
 bravery of spirit. What had he to say of ^^ amour 
 propre " and " susceptibilities" ? It is doubtful whether 
 he heard such fine phrases. A Scottish machine-shop is 
 not the place where one would expect to hear them ; 
 yet he acts bravely and loyally, through a correct 
 understanding of the term amour propre — self-respect. 
 He feels that he has given his word to be a true man, 
 and that no one in after years, or at any time, can 
 twit him with acting disloyally to his promise. So 
 jealous is he of his self-honour or self-respect that he 
 becomes the mainstay of my forlorn hope in an hour 
 of need. 
 
 Germany was also represented by a man equal to 
 the best from any land. This was Frederic Drees, a 
 mechanician, but a very nobleman in working dress. 
 Quiet and gentlemanly in demeanour, and gentle in 
 language, he seemed to have put on a working garb 
 just to show how well dignity befitted honest labour.
 
 GERMAN OFFICEES. 277 
 
 He never even used rougli language to Lis black fire- Europeans 
 
 in Africa 
 
 man, and that is great praise if you know the usual 
 bilious humours of the avenige engineer. Throughout 
 three years of service he performed his duties with the 
 gravity of a philosopher, the dignity of a gentleman, 
 and the general cliaracter of an honourable man. 
 
 There is a gentleman named Lehrman, a Croat, 
 who, by the remarkable power of development that he 
 possesses, has tauglit me not to be too rash in judging 
 from externals. For certainly no one bore such an 
 unpromising exterior and seemed so utterly inex- 
 perienced as Mr. Lehrman, yet to-day he deservedly 
 ranks very high in my estimation as a thoroughly 
 valuable officer. Energetic, bright, alert in mind and 
 body, possessing a fine control over his men, and en- 
 joying splendid health, no better man could be found 
 to take the command of Phillippeville, on the Kwilu- 
 Niadi. It was so isolated in its position that no one 
 seemed willing to accept the appointment, but Mr. 
 Lehrman, seeing the reluctance of others, and pre- 
 viously too modest to obtrude himself upon my notice, 
 volunteered for the post, and has kept me ever since 
 free from anxiety about himself, his own men, or the 
 natives. 
 
 Tliere are many officers yet deserving of notice. 
 Foremost among them are Lieutenant Liebrechts, 
 Mr. Monet, and Count Posse. Their trial, however, 
 has scarcely been sufficient yet. The " roll of honour " 
 must not be too loosely kept. The labourer is justly 
 entitled to his hire, and the trustworthy agent or officer
 
 278 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 Europeaus must iiot be slighted after full proof of his worthiness. 
 
 in Alrica. 
 
 In the above sketches of noble characters, others who 
 ma}^ aspire after distinction in the fields of work may 
 discover what special attributes are necessary for 
 honourable mention and are most appreciated. All of 
 them are beautifully and clearly summed up in the 
 words of Solomon, the wisest of men : " Seest thou a 
 man diligent in his business ? He shall stand before 
 
 Ivinos 
 
 LIEUTENANT LIEBRECHTS. 
 
 A wise Greek said to a friend that " the way to gain 
 a good reputation is to endeavour to be what you 
 desire to appear." 
 
 A wise Briton has t^aid : " The most unhappy of all 
 men is he who cannot tell what he is going to do, who 
 has got no work cut out for him in the world, and 
 does not go into it. For woik is the grand cure of all 
 the maladies and miseries that ever beset mankind — 
 honest work which you intend getting done."
 
 DILIGENCE IN BUSINESS. 279 
 
 Surely if what the Jew, Greek, and Briton uttered Europeans 
 
 . . . , -, /• '"^ Africa. 
 
 each to Ins own nation is true, it must be also true for 
 the two hundred and sixty Belgians, British, French, 
 Germans, Swedes, and Americans who during the last 
 six years have tried their fortunes on the Congo. Let 
 those who are yet there, and still hesitating, think of 
 this.
 
 280 THE CONGO. 
 
 CHAPTEB XXXY. 
 
 CLIMATE — PART I. 
 
 Value of reliable knowledge — A youth's welcome to the tropics, and its 
 results — Wet flannels and fever — Intemperance — Carelessness in 
 Europe — Inquiry into the causes of sickness at the stations on the 
 Congo — The cases of some of our invalids — The best positions to 
 build upon — Captain Burton's advice, " Beef and beer " — European 
 opinion of Africa compared to African opinion of Eurojje — Banza 
 Manteka: a missionary station — Dangers of low-lying localities — A 
 fatal " pare " — " Observe the native custom " — Sickness not all due 
 to miasma — Number of deaths in our Expedition — Instances of how 
 the deaths occurred — Urgent advice to those who wish to thrive in 
 the trollies. 
 
 Climate— The clearer I can make this chapter, the hetter 
 
 Part I. . . , ... . 
 
 suited it will be for those individuals who, either now, 
 or perhaps in the course of" the coming years, may 
 have intercourse with the res-ions under and near the 
 African Equator. There are so many wrong and utterly 
 absurd conceptions abroad regarding the African climate 
 that it is about time some one capable of speaking 
 from experience should utter his opinions bravely and 
 plainly ; and as this book, as may be judged, has its 
 purpose, it would be incomplete without this chapter. 
 
 It should be begun with a confession by the author 
 of having himself lived ignorantly for many years 
 in Africa, just as there are men along .the African
 
 A TBOPICAL WELCOME. 281 
 
 coast, and up the oil rivers, the Niger and the Congo, ciimate- 
 nvmg at this minute m the densest ignorance of the 
 dangers around them, and of the simple philosophy of 
 living healthily and well amid these dangers. It 
 may be presumed, also, that if I live in Africa again, I 
 shall still be in ignorance of many things, despite my 
 accumulated experience of seventeen years. But, un- 
 like many others, I have an intense desire and strong 
 inclination to acquire as much of the wisdom of life as 
 a man's naturally slow wit can acquire In the same 
 measure as my past conduct, which has been a com- 
 pound of ignorance, indolence, indifference, and natural 
 ineptitude, has been more than frequently scourged 
 with the pains and the penalties due to my dulness, 
 rashness, and temerity, so shall I be in the future 
 a victim to punishments, unconsciously self-inflicted^ 
 wdienever I shall trespass against the silent and 
 unwritten laws of health. 
 The young European — 
 
 '• His mother's joy, his father's sole delight 
 That with much cost, yet with more care was bred," 
 
 sighing after adventure, volunteers his services, and 
 sails hopefully to the Congo. He is evidently in 
 splendid health on his arrival, but what to do with 
 that priceless blessing, which has been, if possible, 
 bettered by the long sea voyage, he knows no more 
 than (if the Darwinian theory is right) his long-tailed 
 progenitor. He has heard that it is slightly warm on 
 the Congo — at least, so the meteorologists say ; but in 
 Europe, he smiled at this; thought he could well endure
 
 282 THE CONOO. 
 
 Climate— that heat, since Europe in summer was " ever so much 
 
 Part I ^ 1 . -o 
 
 hotter." Still, after the ship drops anchor m Banana 
 Creek, an uncomfortable quantity of perspiration exudes 
 through the pores of his skin, and the flannels that 
 were endurable at sea become almost intolerable. On 
 stepping ashore this warmth increases, the flannels 
 absorb the perspiration until they are wet and heavy, 
 and cling uncomfortably to his body. The underclothes 
 are full ; the outward clothing has begun to be damp, 
 and dark streaks along the seams of his coat show 
 that they are actually wet, until in fact he represents 
 a water-jug covered with wet flannel such as we sling 
 up in the tropics as a water-cooler. 
 
 The youth is innocent of any idea if aught should 
 be done by him as a precaution against the furtive 
 influences of the new climate. The temperature 
 without is perhaps 105°-110° Fahr. ; but it will be 
 cooler in the verandah. And now, having; arrived and 
 being hospitably invited to take a chair, he gladly 
 accepts the invitation, at the same time doffing his 
 helmet, wiping his red, parboiled face, and fanning 
 himself with his pocket kerchief. He himself observes 
 that the temperature is near 25° cooler than outdoors. 
 No one would offer water to a stranger, but wine, 
 schnapps, beer, gin, seltzer, &c. 
 
 See the unsophisticated home-bred youth, how bash- 
 fully he accepts ! Is he not in Congo-land ? Why 
 may he not ape the moustachcd and brave manhood 
 about him ? "I will take wine, if you please." 
 Thanks ! and a glass of black-red Portuguese wine
 
 WET FLANNELS AND FEVER. 283 
 
 is handed to him, which after trial lie discovers to be ciimate- 
 more potent than a bottle oi champagne. 
 
 This strong- draught of wine has infused courage 
 in him ; it leads to conviviality and apparent loss of 
 strangeness. He sits longer, and becomes interested 
 in the gossip of tlie coast, which, with men of his 
 class, is usually made up of fevers, frivolous localisms, 
 of crocodiles, or hippos, or " niggers," and such recitals 
 as would outlast a Lapland night. But it is now 
 evening and dinner time. 
 
 The ill-fated youth has enjoyed his dinner and potent 
 wine, and a comfortable arm-chair receives his repleted 
 form. The night is cool, and gracious, and bland ; the 
 stars shine brightly, but there is an unaccountable 
 chilliness in the air, and the poor young man has long 
 ngo forgotten the wringing-wet state of his flannels, 
 and could not discern, through his verdant experience, 
 that he was like a water-cooler. At last he seeks the 
 couch offered him by the hospitable trader, on which 
 he tosses about till cockcrow with disturbed dreams. 
 In the morning he feels unwell ; his tongue is furred, 
 and a strange lassitude has taken possession of him. 
 This feeling grows into a nauseous sickness. He is 
 visited about the time of dejeuner, and is discovered 
 with flushed face, watery eyes and a rapid pulse, and 
 declared to have a fever ! 
 
 Then there is the medicating of the sick man in a 
 rude unskilful way, and a rough but kindly nursing of 
 him. But the personal attendant is a black negro, to 
 whom the white man is an absolute stranger. The
 
 284 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— scGHe Gnds after a few days with convalescence perhaps, 
 and a slow recovery, o\\ in an extreme case, with death, 
 when the hody will he interred at the Point among the 
 remains of other unfortunates. But no lesson will he 
 drawn from that death any more than i'rom the many 
 preceding deaths, until those who can read and learn 
 will obtain it from this chapter. 
 
 Truly it is extremely discouraging to feel that of 
 the twenty other young or mature gentlemen who may 
 have seen this youth, and perhaps enjoyed his society 
 for this one evening, there is not one of them can make 
 an approachable guess at the real cause which cut him 
 off so prematurely. Each will have his opinion : the 
 old veteran will remark that it was a pity such a boy 
 should have left his mother ; another will hazard 
 a remark that, no doubt, it was some form of organic 
 disease ; another will attribute it to hereditary weak- 
 ness, and he will quote De Bloeme and Greshoff and 
 Muller, and several others who came out as boys and 
 throve marvellously on the climate. One thoughtless 
 man will cry out, " Another victim of Africa ! Cruel, 
 murderous Africa ! " while one may perhaps venture 
 to utter his belief that it was the Portuguese wine, 
 which, if not very much diluted, is as bad as brandy ! 
 And so on — all mere surmises, as far opposite to the 
 truth as the truth is to lying! 
 
 The fever was caused by sittiiig in his wet flannels 
 in the cold night air. We know how a young man in 
 Europe, returning home in wet clothes, feeling shivery, 
 may be attacked with inflammation of the lungs, and,
 
 CARELESSNESS IN EUROPE. 285 
 
 despite the most loving attention and highest medical ciimate- 
 skill, may be carried off by death.* Life in Africa 
 does not exempt another young man from a like effect 
 arising from a similar cause. Strange to say, young 
 men fresh from Europe are very prone to believe that 
 if their flannels are made " wringing wet "from violent 
 perspiration, they are not liable to the same dangers 
 as one who has been wetted and chilled by a wintry 
 rain-storm. On their return to Europe, however, 
 they have rather inverted their opinions, preferring 
 to believe that a sudden exposure of the body when 
 perspiring to a cold draught is not so dangerous as a 
 similar experiment would be in Africa. 
 
 Many will say that ibis is incredible, but such errors 
 of judgment occur nevertheless. There are about 
 twenty cases to my personal knowledge to prove the 
 statement. One case, resulting in pneumonia, was 
 lately telegraphed from Berlin over to England, and 
 a friend of mine died but a short time ago from 
 inflammation of the lungs, after successfully enduring 
 several years' work on the Congo. Several of my 
 J]nglish friends have also lost coloured men from 
 Africa through their rash forgetfulness of avoiding 
 draughts when, heated by the warm temperature of 
 their rooms. I have been a victim to my own care- 
 lessness repeatedly, and though I know well what the 
 
 * A medical authority in New York has lately drawn attention to the 
 fact that the "violent exercise indulged in by 20,000 young people at 
 the skating rinks every evening has caused an alarming increase of 
 pneumonia, 149 deaths in one week being reported. This exercise induces 
 copious perspiration and fatigue, and, thoughtless of consequences, Ihe 
 young have s-allied out from the rinks to encounter the keen cold blasts.
 
 286 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— tedious, exasperatiiig consequences of such thouglit- 
 
 Part I. 
 
 less folly will be, an unlucky abstraction of mind or 
 • some hapless oversight has caused me to look out 
 
 of the window of a warm room ; or some bore has 
 button-holed me before an open door through which 
 the gusty wind enters ; then comes the tedious catarrh, 
 the painful bionchitis, and their protracted chest 
 affections, tempting me to exclaim, like the Roman 
 patrician of old, who denied zealous duty to his Im- 
 perator in cold, chilly, feverish Albion, " Ob, England ; 
 cruel, murderous England!" 
 
 At Vivi, for instance, I would undertake that the 
 strongest man would have a fever within a few hours, 
 but it will depend on the condition of the man's system 
 how severe or how mild it will be. Given a case, having 
 blood already impoverished by poor food, with system 
 sapped and weakened by various trifling little African 
 " colds," the fever that could be inflicted on him might 
 prove dangerous to life, while the strongest man, with 
 all his fresh blood, his splendid physique, and pro- 
 phylactic precautions, would be sure to regret during 
 five or six days that he had exposed himself to it. 
 
 At Yivi there is an excellent place to prove the above 
 truth ; let some Dr. Koch try it. I should say in this 
 manner : " Go down to the Nkusu Valley, or Yivi 
 landing place, become well heated, perspiring, walk 
 briskly up hill, which will no doubt increase your per- 
 spiration ; then seat yourself on the brow of the station 
 hill in a comfortable cane chair, and occupy your mind 
 with Fothergill's, Fayrer's, or Lauder Brunton's ex-
 
 CAUSES OF SICKNESS. 287 
 
 planati'ons of malaria, say, for an hour, until you are ciimate- 
 well chilled, then go to dinner that evening with what 
 appetite you may." 
 
 I have suffered during my long African experience 
 over 120 fevers, great and slight, and I may have 
 suffered over one hundred before suspecting that many 
 of these were preventible in other ways than by taking 
 quinine, and its preliminary remedies, and that there 
 were other causes productive of fever besides malaria, 
 and miasma. The last six years in Africa have enlarged 
 my experience greatly. Added to my own personal 
 sufferings have been those of about 260 Europeans as 
 ignorant as myself of the causes of these fevers. The 
 sick lists of various stations have been inspected by me, 
 and the inspection has created a desire to know why 
 fevers and sickness were more frequent at one place 
 tlian another. I have been astonished to discover 
 that fevers were more rife at a station near which no 
 one could possibly find sufficient putrefying vegetation 
 to account for the sickness. 
 
 Old Yivi, for instance, is situated on a rocky plat- 
 form, with a sudden drainage on three sides, and only 
 during the rainy season does the wind come from the 
 north-west, where rises the towering mass of Castle 
 Hill. For a distance of forty miles, between us and the 
 low ground near Boma, the Congo flows between the 
 rock slopes of two mountain lines, which rise from 200 
 to 800 feet above it. Yet, old Yivi, excepting Manyanga, 
 is the most sickly spot in all our possessions, if the sick 
 list is at all reliable, and I personally suffered more
 
 288 TEE CONGO. 
 
 Climate- vexatious " little fevers," at that station than at any 
 
 Part I. 
 
 other. The third most unhealthy station is Le'opoldville, 
 though during the last year there has heen a decided 
 improvement in it. But if our old-fashioned ideas of the 
 cause of fever were correct, it should have presented a 
 much cleaner health-bill than several of the stations on 
 the Upper Congo, some of which are situate only about 
 ten feet above high water, witli perhaps many hundred 
 square miles of black fat loam or damp forest on three 
 sides of it. Yet to despatch debilitated persons from 
 Le'opoldville to these upper stations, in apparently un- 
 healthy situations had the same effect as sending them 
 to a sanatorium of established repute. Young Glave, 
 of Yorkshire, while at Leopoldville, is seen gradually 
 becoming cadaverous, his form becomes less and less 
 rigid and upright ; his pallid face, white lips, and dark 
 lines under the eyes, warn us that he undergoes the 
 strange vicissitudes common and necessary to unfledged 
 Europeans. At his own request he is commissioned to 
 build a station at Lukolela, and the change in two months 
 is simply astounding — he becomes at least three stone 
 heavier in w^eight, living light is in the eyes, his form 
 is pliant, vigorous, his movement quick ; his every 
 action betokens lusty young life. Lieut. Liebrichts, at 
 Le'opoldville, is a subject creating great anxiety to me. 
 I whisper my suspicion to the medical man in charge, 
 that this is another unfit case for Africa. Suggestions 
 are not wanting, but the doctor is himself inclined to 
 despair. He is taken to Bolobo on my way to Stanley 
 Falls. My return down river is haunted by a fear that
 
 INQUIRY INTO SICKNESS. 289 
 
 bad news of him await me there, instead of" which a ciimate- 
 magnificent specimen of manhood greets me, and after 
 a wondering gaze from nil of ns on the steamers, 
 something in the tone and manner remind us of our 
 sure-to-be buried friend. Why, it is Liebrichls him- 
 self, a hearty, sleek man, who has a strong grasp, and a 
 bright cheery welcome to all of us. 
 
 Mr. Swinburne, one of the " faithful " among the 
 expedition, is always ailing, ulcerous or fevei'ish conr 
 tinually, at Yivi, Manyanga, or Le'opoldville ; but 
 being dispatched to Kinshassa on Stanley Pool, only 
 five miles above Le'opoldville, he lives eighteen months, 
 to my knowledge, without a single attack of indis- 
 position — a constant marvel to his friends, that a low- 
 lying station like Kinshassa can preserve such a mail 
 alive and well. r 
 
 Lieutenants Yangele and Coquilhat, the builders of 
 Equator Station, and the vanguard of the Europeans 
 on the Upper Congo, each time we visit them, are 
 anxiously asked, " What of the climate ?" 
 
 " Splendid I" the gallant young officers cry. " No- 
 thing could be better. Do not trouble yourself about 
 us ; give us a little coffee or tea, and enough to have a 
 petit verre occasionally for our cafe noir — that is all we 
 want ; our own gardens produce all the rest. As for 
 health, we two ought to satisfy any one of the salu- 
 brity of this region." 
 
 When I examine the muster-roll of those along 
 the Upper Congo since 1882, I find there have been 
 twenty-nine Europeans above Le'opoldville, out of 
 Vol. II.— 19
 
 290 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— "^vliom two liave been drowned and only one died of 
 
 ■ sickness, and twenty have either served their three 
 
 years' te^"m of service, or are nearly completing their 
 
 term. Only one has resigned through reason of 
 
 severe illness. 
 
 Considering that the furtlier they have advanced 
 into the interior, the less ceitain the Europeans are 
 of receiving external aid and supply of customary 
 adjuncts to their economic fare from Europe, the above 
 statement is most creditable to the climate. 
 
 Le'opoldville. — which, since 1883, has been steadily 
 improving its sanitary condition by the increase of its 
 comforts and conveniences, through the enlarged views 
 which the natives entertain of white men, added to the 
 immensely greater ability and experience of the Euro- 
 peans in charge, — despite the larger extent of cultivated 
 area, and the more perfect order and cleanliness of its 
 surroundings, is still subject to light waves of sickness 
 occasionally, althongh they show nothing approaching 
 the former severity, which sometimes, in one day, 
 incapacitated one half the number of whites at the 
 station. 
 
 In the moral atmosphere of Leopold ville there is no 
 fault to be found. The conduct of all the people is 
 decidedly virtuous and above reproach. Neither can 
 they be charged with liberal consumption of the strong 
 wine or ardent spirits, which are so plentiful on the 
 coast, because these cannot be transported in such quan- 
 tities as to permit of such extravagance. Tlie houses 
 are large, commodious, cool, airy, well ventilated, and
 
 THE HEALTH OF VI VI. 291 
 
 wqW protected against the heat of the sun. With more cHmate- 
 labour, and in time, many additional improvements 
 may be effected in draining and clearing all that 
 remains uncleared in the immediate neighbourhood of 
 the station. Every square yard of clean open ground 
 will be a little gain in health. Yet, at the same time, 
 I doubt if it will ever be perfect in its present position. 
 
 Vivi, again, to which the steamers from the seaport 
 bring constant supplies of necessaries, even luxuries, 
 never lacks wines or spirits, and is many degrees better, 
 for furniture-equipment of its buildings than Le'opold- 
 ville, is much inferior for the salubrity of its position. 
 This cannot be ascribed to the fact that it is nearer 
 to the lowlands of the sea-coast than Le'opoldville, 
 because Lutete Station, situate on the plateau eighty 
 miles nearer the sea-coast than Leopoldville, is one 
 of tlie healthiest stations on the Congo. Nor can it 
 be attributed to the fact that immoderate indulgence 
 in wine and spirits might be charged to some that 
 have disgraced themselves, since the most virtuous 
 and well-conducted have also suffered, thougli not 
 nearly to the same extent. The rocky composition of 
 the site of the station, the innumerable means of 
 drainage around, the entire absence of anything likely 
 to vitiate the atmosphere from putrefying vegetation, 
 render the problem still more difficult to resolve, with- 
 out the key to the solution afforded by a comparison 
 of the sick lists and the positions of each station. 
 
 The truth is that the sickness of Yivi is attributable 
 to various causes, but first and principally to its defective
 
 292 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— positioii, being situate on a projection in the neck of a 
 mountain funnel. The mouth of this funnel gapes about 
 fourteen miles to the Atlantic Ocean, then contracts just 
 above Boma to about a mile in width, and at Vivi to 
 about 1300 yards. The pier platform on which tlie 
 old station was built projects about 300 yards across 
 this breadth, receiving the cold south-west sea-breeze, 
 which, blowing a five-knot breeze at Banana, is felt of 
 the force of fourteen knots at Vivi. 
 
 THE FUNNEL-SHAPED GORGE OF THE LOWER CONGO. 
 
 Manyang;), another unhealthy station for its un- 
 fortunate position, is ordy higlier up the neck of the 
 funnel. Leopoldville again is placed sh'glitly bettei', 
 but still defective, being on the slope of a hill by whicli 
 the plateau winds and the upper strata of canon blasts 
 escape, to be diffused over the expanse of Stanley Pool. 
 Boma is superior to Yivi foi" its position, because near 
 it the Congo Vnlley is less confined, and would be con- 
 sequently more salubrious were there some drainage of
 
 A SEA-COAST POSITION. 
 
 293 
 
 the flats aroiina it effected. Banana Point oup*lit to ciimate- 
 
 I'ait I. 
 
 be superior to both, because the bills are still farther 
 removed, were it not so low, and its neighboui'hood so 
 offensive. The site consists of sea-sand, through which 
 the sea and river water percolate underneath ; the 
 hollows within present malodorous abominations, and 
 perhaps the absence of strong moral public opinion 
 has conduced to its past evil repute. At the same 
 time, a wise expenditure of money, and good order, 
 
 
 KintaTnoQ 
 
 PLAN TO ILLUSTRATE HOW THE GOUGE DISCHARGES ITS WINDS AT 
 LEOPOLDVILLE. 
 
 would greatly improve the chniices of life on the sandy 
 point. It is certain that a position on the sea coast, it 
 well chosen, with cleanly living, aided by wisdom in 
 the petty details of life, ought not to be more unhealthy 
 than any other place on the globe ; because the mere 
 heat is no worse than mere cold — it is the careless ex- 
 posure to both that invokes its malignanc}' . The heat 
 is as cruel to the unprotected body as it is to the head
 
 294 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— of a Europeaii, but so is tlie extreme cold. It is the 
 wise government of conduct that renders both equally 
 harmless. 
 
 An open position then, especially if its surroundings 
 are happy — that is to say, removed as much as possible 
 from all deposits and deleterious influences of putrefy- 
 ing vegetable matter, with the air freely diifused around, 
 with careful provision against accidents from the ex- 
 treme heat, with changes of temperature guarded against 
 by the same precautions that are adopted in Europe, 
 with good food, with work to amuse or interest the 
 mind, with due means to check the influences resulting 
 from such a total change in life as the tropic climate 
 demands, and with proper moral conduct, 1 maintain, 
 will enable the European to thrive in a hot climate as 
 well as in any climate under the sun. 
 
 Travellers vary in their estimation of what is fitting 
 for the intending immigrant to the tropics. Captain 
 Burton, after a brief visit to the Congo, cries out for 
 " Beef and beer." However startling at first sight this 
 may be, yet there is some truth in it. " Beef," by all 
 means, that is good substantial nourishing food. Let 
 there be a variety of fresh animal food ; well cooked 
 beef, mutton, game, fish and fowl, with vegetables- 
 potatoes, turnips, cabbages, beets, carrots — and good 
 bread, butter, jam, tea, or coffee, vv^th all sensible dishes 
 that the cook's skill can furnish. Even althouo-h other 
 externals are not quite perfect, good food will better 
 enable one to live and withstand the troubles of climatic 
 change than bad food. But about ''beer" I differ.
 
 MODERATION IN FOOD AND DRINK. 295 
 
 The English beers are too bihous for Africa, and the ciimatc- 
 German beers are not absohitelj necessary, so long as 
 red and white wines — claret and Madeiras — are obtain- 
 able ; and I would strongly recommend that these should 
 be taken moderately, witli dinner, and never — abso- 
 lutely never — during daylight. If one exception should 
 be allowed it would be after a severe strain of the 
 system, when you will be compelled to confine your- 
 self to your house until the effect produced by it has 
 completely passed away. For, however small this 
 effect may be, whether a slight exhilaration, or com- 
 plete intoxication, it emboldens or inspires you with a 
 false courage that may be fatal, if you are tempted to 
 defy the direct sun-heat while under the elevating 
 influence of the bevej-age. 
 
 The Duke of Wellington's receipt for the promotion 
 of health in India, is also applicable to the Congo. 
 
 " I know but one receipt for good health in this 
 country, and that is to live moderately, to drink little 
 or no wine, to use exercise, to keep the mind employed, 
 and, if possible, to keep in good humour with the world. 
 The last is the most diflicult, for as you have often 
 observed, there is scarcely a good-tempered man in 
 India." 
 
 All those officers on the Congo who have reflected at 
 all will admit that a moderate life has been proved to 
 be more successful than an immoderate one. Modera- 
 tion in food, as well as in drinking ardent liquor. To 
 drink little wine is excellent advice, but I am not 
 yet prepared to admit that total abstinence from wine
 
 296 TEE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— is better than temperance, either in Africa or in 
 
 Part I. . 
 
 Europe. Employment for the mind I have already 
 nrged ; and if a man can keep in good humour with 
 the world it means that he is in good health from wise 
 living, a happy situation, agreeable employment, and 
 that the world is pleasant with him. 
 
 Jt must be remembered, however, that if a man in a 
 violent state of [)erspiration subjects his unprepared 
 person to a cold draught of wind while in such a con- 
 dition, the fact that he is temperate in his life and 
 habits, and has always dieted his body wisely, richly, 
 and nobly, will not save him in Africa from a fever, 
 any more than that it will save him in northern Europe 
 from a cold and its tedious pains. Neither " beef and 
 beer " or " beef and brandy," nor all the drugs of the 
 pharmacopoeia will save him. Or, if the position of his 
 house is so unwisely chosen that his body is perpetually 
 subjected to violent changes of temperature- — one 
 minute in a state of profuse perspiration and the other 
 minute outdoors without additional clothing, exposed 
 to a chilling blast that closes the pores, and chills the 
 damp flannel pressed against the body — his perfect diet 
 will not avail him. My wonder is, not that so many 
 have returned to Europe disheartened at the weakness 
 of the resistance their constitutions were able to offer 
 to the vicissitudes which their ignorance subjected 
 their own persons to, but at the fact that there are still 
 so many who bravely endured all. And, now that so 
 much has been cleared of what was before so mysterious 
 to us in Africa, let us try how it would answer in well-
 
 SICKNESS AT SIEREA LEONE. 297 
 
 drained and well-fed London, or any other Enf^lish ciimate- 
 city. Let us heat our sitting-room, until the under- 
 clothing gets thoroughly soaked with perspiration, then 
 walk outdoors to a street corner, and stand on a windy 
 day without additional clothing, and wait till next 
 morning for the result. Or go to a London ball, 
 become heated with dancing in a crowded room, then 
 walk home in the same dress, and tell me honestly 
 if, in addition to months of this experience, you add 
 months of poor diet, bad cooking, and other inde- 
 scribable discomforts, you wonder that the African 
 continent has an evil character, and that so many un- 
 fortunate pioneers of trade and exploration have left 
 their bones in its earth. 
 
 Let future governors of Sierra Leone bear this great 
 cause in mind, and see if they cannot rectify the posi- 
 tion of their residence, and that of the barracks in 
 their town. It may be, a new light will dawn on 
 them, to the great benefit of themselves and the com- 
 fort of their families. 
 
 I have said that Yivi owed its unhealthiness prin- 
 cipally to its defective position, to its exposure to the 
 cold blast blowing up the mountain funnel from the 
 south-west. I have taken Vivi as a type — and the 
 same is applicable to any similarly exposed camp, 
 station, town, or city in equatorial Africa. Another 
 singular illustration of this is tiie fact that in ascending 
 the Congo, notwithstanding the long array of swampy 
 islands and shores, and the want of exercise on such 
 small boats, we enjoyed excellent health. But when
 
 298 THE CONGO. 
 
 cij;n^te— descending the river at full speed the wind, sharp, cold, 
 and chilling, frequently prostrated us. Under shelter, 
 in the cabin, or when protected by the bulwarks, the 
 temperature was warm enough to induce an insensible 
 perspiration, but when we emerged for some duty from 
 behind our shelter, the wind produced that feeling 
 which ended in fever. A glass barrier in front of our 
 bodies while piloting the steamers down river would 
 have saved us from these distressing attacks. 
 
 I have said, also, that this exposure, and the quick 
 and frequent transitions we thereby experienced, though 
 the principal, were not the only causes of fever ; and I 
 have also asserted, and proved, that the warm tempera- 
 ture of equatorial Africa is not dangerous ; that the ill- 
 effects suffered indirectly through it are easily remedi- 
 able, provided circumstances will permit it, and mostly 
 all other causes are preventable. 
 
 Europeans going into Africa are precisely in the same 
 state of ignorance as Central African aborigines coming 
 to Europe. Both commit the gravest imprudences, and 
 being severe sufferers through their imprudent follies, 
 they ignorantly blame the country and its climate. 
 " Cruel, murderous Africa ! " exclaims the northern 
 European. "Deadly and hateful Europe!" exclaims 
 the dark aborigine from the African tropics, when the 
 first cold draught from the open window or door visits 
 him with a protracted bronchial sickness. 
 
 I have pointed out our short-comings in judgment, 
 and the sick lists at Boma, Yivi, Isangila, Manyanga, 
 Bayneston, and Le'opoldville will prove my words. But
 
 VALLEY STATIONS. 299 
 
 1 must now point out another cause of sickness, to ciimate- 
 
 . . Part I. 
 
 illustrate the long-suffering and numerous calamities 
 which -purchase experience, although nothing short of 
 dynamital terror moves the majority of mortal men to 
 immediate action. 
 
 I will take Banza Manteka, a station of the pious, 
 hard-striving, long-enduring missioners, belonging to 
 the "Livingstone .Inland Congo Mission," as a type of 
 another cause of sickness. It is situate in a hollow, 
 like a bowl deep sunk in the bosom of enfolding hills. 
 Perhaps from one hill crest to the opposing hill crest, a 
 line drawn exactly bisecting the station would be a 
 mile and a quarter in length. On one side, however, 
 that opposite to the prevailing winds^ it is open, having 
 access to the valley of Ntombo - Lukuti. Here, one 
 would say, is a snug nest, where the howling winds 
 cannot chill to death the pale-faced European ; and to 
 make it still more snug and cosy the poor fellows in 
 their zeal for work have planted gardens of bananas 
 and papaw trees, whose beautiful fronds and leafage 
 almost hide the dwelling of these God-serving men. 
 
 In the high, exposed places we consider the rainy 
 season as the healthiest. Some have supposed it to be 
 so from the greater clearness and purity of the atmo- 
 sphere whereas in fact it is only because the cold winds 
 are hushed and we enjoy an uniform warmth. But if 
 this season is the healthiest at Yivi and other stations 
 in the Congo canon, it is the most unhealthy in hollows 
 like these of Banza Manteka and Lukunga stations. 
 
 After a rain-fall the atmosphere is clear and the sky
 
 300 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— is of an Italian hue. During this temporary clearness 
 
 Part J. 
 
 the atmosphere offers the least obstruction to the direct 
 power of the sun. If powerful on the hill-tops it must 
 be of baking- heat in these bowl-like hollows. It is shot 
 forth relentlessly through the thickest cork-helmet. If 
 an umbrella is used, while increasing the safety from 
 danger above, it only causes a more profuse perspira- 
 tion by the confinement to the body of the ascend- 
 ing cloud of warm vapour which surges upward from 
 the damp earth, and encompasses the person at every 
 step. According to the nature and quality of the 
 inorganic bodies in the neighbourhood, it either rises in 
 denser or in a mxore heated volume. If tlie neighbour- 
 hood is rocky the heat blazes in the face almost 
 insufferably and bakes the clothing ; if of wet grass or 
 damp earth, there is an excess of moist, penetrating 
 warmth, which soon deluges one with perspiration. 
 The top of that swathe of dead grass is nearly dry, 
 but put forth your hand and place it underneath, 
 and the astonishing warmth of tP-e moisture, Avhose tem- 
 perature is like that of an oven, will illustrate the means 
 by which rapid decay is caused in these lands. Have 
 you never tested the heat to be found in your own 
 dung-heap at home, even in mid-winter? If you inhaled 
 the stifling atmosphere long you suffered what no con- 
 stitution could endure with impunity. Well, then, at 
 Banza Manteka station, the hot, muggy, steamy atmo- 
 sphere rising up with the clouds of moisture, and bear- 
 ing the deleterious influences upward in a continued, 
 undrifted volume from old decaying grass at the base
 
 A FATAL " PAIiC" 301 
 
 of the green shoots, or from decaying leaves gathered ci.mate— 
 
 ■* . Part L 
 
 at the base of the beautiful bananas, is more pernicious 
 to health than life on a dunghill in an unfloored house 
 in Europe would be, unless you put a great hot stove 
 inside to equalise the quantity of malaria — bad air — 
 that is inhaled in the sickly hollow of Banza Man- 
 teka. It is reported that such and such a missionary 
 was obliged to go home after suffering from a " per- 
 nicious" fever, that is, a bilious fever of unusual 
 severity. A young military officer built a native cabin 
 in the Nkusu ravine, near Yivi, in the middle of what 
 he romantically called a " pare." He had caused 
 avenues — " Avenue de Yalcke," '• Avenue Stanley," 
 " Avenue de Bruxelles " — to be formed in this " pare," 
 and, to enjoy the romance thoroughly, he dwelt in his 
 native chalet to luxuriate in his beautiful romance. 
 Poor fellow, he was soon taken ill of a bilious fever, 
 and he died about sixty hours later. This trough of 
 the Nkusu was still more confined than the bowl of 
 Banza Manteka. 
 
 On open gromid, during the rainy season, the air dif- 
 fuses this pestilential vapour, heavy with putrefaction 
 and decay. Movement over it is not only a relief from 
 the dangerous heat from above, but from that which, 
 when a person stands still, rises up in a thin, invisible 
 column to the fnce behind the bulwark of the person. 
 
 But some one, hard to satisfy and prone to doubt, 
 remarks that on open high land there is sickness also. 
 You cannot call " open high land," a plateau, or plain, 
 where the face of it is uncleared of its forests of tall 
 grass and obstructing scrub. The grass of the tropics
 
 302 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— j'g several feet biglier than the height of a man's person ; 
 the more confined the cleai'ed area in which you stand 
 is, the more unhealthy is your position. Begin at the 
 narrov/ foot-wide path, with the grass from two to five 
 feet above your head, with a hot sun glowing burn- 
 ingly on the earth, and your position will be unendur- 
 able if you stand still long. Advance into a small 
 open market-place in its midst, relief is instantly felt. 
 But could you suppose that you had an area of a few 
 square miles of plain, or gently-rolling land, without 
 swamp, lagoon, or stagnant body of water, that the 
 dead grass was clean cleared off, and only vegetables 
 and grain growing, that your two-storied house was 
 prepared with windows to admit light, and could like- 
 wise admit the cool air without admitting draught, and 
 that the roof projected broad and ample from its walls, 
 your consequent good health would then teach you, 
 and teach the coming generations, that a tropic home 
 can be made as healthy and as comfortable as any home 
 in 3'our own dear native land. 
 
 Observe the native custom, and let the dark abori- 
 gine teach you by his example. Do you, therefore, as 
 one should expect from your education, improve your 
 surroundings after the elementary lesson derived from 
 his example has been well acquired. 
 
 In what part of the Congo canon do we find a 
 native village after passing Mussuko ? Let us cast our 
 eyes on the chart. All the way from Mussuko both 
 banks are abandoned. On the shores of that expansion 
 of the Congo called Stanley Pool, we find Kintamo, 
 Kinshassa, Kimbangu, Kimpoko, Mfwa, and Malima,
 
 SITi:S OF NATIVE VILLAGES. 303 
 
 but these are peopled by ivory traders wlio have ciimate- 
 business with the Wy-yarizi River men. Near Mswata 
 are the first evidences of population ; but as far up as 
 the boundaries of Bolobo district the people are but 
 scanty in number along the river. The highland 
 levels are more or less inhabited according to the 
 advantages offered by the neighbourhood, such as 
 accessibility to water, fertility of soil, presence of shade, 
 and security from violence. Their weak numbers, and 
 their dread of stronger neighbours, have left many 
 things undone that a sanitary inspector would condemn 
 as a neglect cruel to themselves and their families. So 
 long, however, as choice was permitted to them, we 
 observe that they have elected to leave the river and 
 its banks, and build on the high, comparatively open 
 plateau and plain. 
 
 At Banza Manteka, for instance, we have an illus- 
 tration of the manner in which the natives have rejected 
 the unhealthy hollow, and the curious contrast of the 
 white man's choice. All around, and within view from 
 the white man's mission-house, are the groves under 
 which nestle the native villages. There is only one 
 native village within the hollow ; but the white man's 
 house is almost at the bottom, as though he might be in 
 possession of a charm to drive away the foul air and 
 gases exhaling from that close inland basin. Experience 
 has proved that his charms, his potion and his drugs 
 will not avail the white man to contend against such 
 deadly influences, any more than the fetish absurdities 
 availed the black man in his efforts to live there.
 
 304 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— Loiiff after I had constructed Le'opoldville's block 
 Parti. ^ . . , ^. . . ,. 
 
 house, the natives of Kintambu distiict intormed me 
 
 that a village once stood on the same spot. A few oil 
 palms and pieces of crockery had caused me to suspect 
 this. Since I have been enlightened by my sick lists, 
 and followed up this interesting research into the 
 causes of the disastrous sickness experienced there, I 
 have often condemned myself for my remarkable 
 blindness. As an excuse I could only plead that I was 
 searchino" after a total) v different cause in a diametri- 
 cally opposite direction. I was searching for things and 
 places that bred miasma, such as decaying vegetable 
 bodies, deposits of ooze, stagnant creeks, flat-bottomed 
 gullies, fat with damp alluvium, quick breeding hollows, 
 rank masses of vegetation, that I might avoid tliem, if 
 possible ; for doctors, by their many books, of which I 
 had a store, gave me the benefit of their collective 
 wisdom — and what is wisdom but aggregate expe- 
 rience ? — and pointed out to me that such places were 
 productive of malaria. I wished to avoid the sources 
 of malaria, and at Tivi I built, 540 feet above the 
 river, on a solid concrete platform of rock, and dared 
 to defy the tropic heat. I constructed Manyanga on 
 the crown of a hill, and nothing stagnant or malarious 
 could possibly exist within several days' journey of the 
 station. But when my white comrades began to droop 
 and fade away, when their strength, their youth, their 
 morality, and their imimpeachable virtue seemed of no 
 avail, and death claimed its victims one after another, 
 I must admit that utter bewilderment took possession
 
 COLD DBAUGHTS. 305 
 
 of me. At lenfi-tli the upper station's extraordinary ciimate- 
 good sanitary condition awoke my interest, wliile the 
 station of Kinshassa, only five miles from Leopoldville, 
 seemed also to afford me a cine ; and passing rapidly 
 through the entire lines of the stations, obtaining from 
 each officer in charge his reports, and noting clearly as 
 I went the position of each, I saw that our stations 
 were in a strange comminglement of the healthy and 
 unhealthy. By arranging those in tabular order, a 
 clearer idea of the truth flashed upon me. This I 
 have endeavoured in j^lain simple language to convey 
 to the general understanding of such men as may now 
 reside on the Congo, or may choose in future time to 
 emigrate there, whether as agents of the new State, 
 missionaries, traders, tourists, explorers, agriculturists, 
 or miners. 
 
 Added to the victims of these cold draughts, which 
 greatly outnumber all others, were those whose con- 
 stitutions failed by living in malarious hollows, followed 
 by those who led impure and intemperate lives, next 
 by those who required more nourishing pabula than 
 our present circumstances would enable us to supply 
 them with, and lastly, those who fell through accidents, 
 caused by carelessness, indolence of mind, unreasoning 
 rashness, natural helplessness, and constitutional physi- 
 cal weakness. 
 
 It is satisfactory to know that there has been a re- 
 markable improvement in the health of the Europeans 
 who have during the last six years resided on the 
 Congo. In glancing over the lists of names on the 
 Vol. XL— 20
 
 30G 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— niuster-roU of those wliites who left Europe breathing 
 
 Part I 
 
 undying valour, and high courage, I find that up to the 
 present date no less than 263 have arrived on the banks 
 of the great African river as follows: — 
 
 Nationalities of the 
 Agents engaged. 
 
 Americans 
 
 Arab 
 
 Austrians 
 
 Belgians 
 
 Danish 
 
 Dutch 
 
 English 
 
 Number. 
 
 6 
 1 
 5 
 
 81 
 6 
 3 
 
 80 
 
 Nationalities of the 
 Agents engaged. 
 
 French 
 
 Gennan 
 
 Italian 
 
 Portuguese 
 
 Swedish 
 
 Swiss 
 
 Number. 
 
 6 
 32 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 37 
 
 1 
 
 263 
 
 Year. 
 
 No. of Whites 
 engaged. 
 
 No. of 
 
 Deaths 
 
 from 
 
 Sickness. 
 
 No. of 
 
 Deaths 
 
 from 
 
 Accidents. 
 
 Returned 
 
 from 
 
 various 
 
 causes. 
 
 Remaining in the 
 
 Service at the end 
 
 of the Year. 
 
 1879 
 1880 
 1881 
 1882 
 1883 
 1884 
 1885 
 
 18 
 13 
 13 
 33 
 93 
 83 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 3 
 
 8 
 7 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 12 
 
 25 
 
 37 
 
 13 
 28 
 32 
 69 
 151 
 142 
 
 Total. 
 
 263 
 
 24 
 
 5 
 
 92 
 
 
 The deaths were in many cases avoidable. Some 
 have been the result of downright madness. There 
 are few that I know of which might not serve to 
 point a moral and a lesson. Not many of these 
 deaths can be excused on the ground of old age, or
 
 CAUSES OF SICKNESS. 307 
 
 original physical weakness. They were all men in the ciimate- 
 
 Part I. 
 
 prime of life. Fatigue, want of proper nourishment, 
 exposure to the sun, inveterate intemperance in a few 
 cases, in conjuction with the ignorance of conduct of 
 life in the tropics, which I strive to combat in this 
 chapter, and which is pardonable, since we have all 
 been guilty, were the causes which led to this mortality. 
 1 do not wish to offend the susceptibilities of sorrowing 
 relatives, therefore I will not name the rash unfor- 
 tunates, but my first duty is to the living, whom I 
 must warn against committing follies leading to self- 
 destruction. 
 
 A European, proficient in his duties, willing and 
 devoted after nearly two years' successful work with the 
 expedition, during which he enjoys unusually good 
 health, returns from a voyage up river, and suddenly 
 falls sick of a mild form of dysentery. In a few days it 
 is cured, when througli some strange cause he has a 
 relapse. Two medical men use their utmost endeavours 
 to cure him ; the best attention during many weeks is 
 given to him, and he recovers strength enough to be 
 able to be conveyed to the coast. He arrives in a 
 more hopeful condition, and after a few days' stay at 
 the hospital, is declared fit to proceed to Europe. That 
 same evening, in tlie absence of the nurse, he barters a 
 coat for a bottle of gin, drinks it, and twelve hours 
 afterwards he is buried at Boma. 
 
 Another, by being kept up river, serves three years 
 admirably, is sent home with honours, returns after a 
 while for another period of service at higher pay.
 
 308 THE CONGO. 
 
 But meantime some unaccountable thirst for ardent 
 spirits has possessed him, and a few days after his 
 arrival he falls overboard into the river while intoxi- 
 cated, and is drowned. 
 
 Another appears on the Congo with a character for 
 proficiency and steadiness, but within two months after 
 commencing work, he is discovered dead, sitting behind 
 a shed with an empty liquor bottle at his feet. 
 
 Two friends visit the coast, go on board the mail 
 steamer, hob-nob socially, and depart for the shore. 
 Both are taken seriously ill, but fortunately recover, 
 remaining, however, very emaciated and weak. One 
 departs for Madeira and lives to tell the tale ; the 
 other, on the first evening of his convalescence, indulges 
 too much in the potent wine, sits out too late in the 
 nig'ht-air, becomes a victim to tetanus, and dies in 
 excruciating agony. 
 
 Two friends meet in the interior. One has a bottle 
 of Burgundy, another a bottle of Cognac, They agree 
 to dine to2:ether to celebrate the event. Until a late 
 hour they sit and talk, and, I suppose, drink. The 
 coast-bound friend departs, the other resumes work 
 and duty. By-and-by the smi appears powerful, with 
 a merciless burning strength — the young man is sud- 
 denly stricken down, conveyed to the nearest station, 
 and twelve hours afterwards is buried. 
 
 It is not necessary to recite other illustrations of the 
 incidents which show how men become their own w^orst 
 enemies. In all lands there are instances of suicidal 
 indifference, and gross recklessness of the consequences
 
 VIOLENT TRANSITIONS. 309 
 
 resulting from misconduct. To many preaching avails ciimate- 
 but little ; therefore for ages yet to come people may 
 expect to hear of such lamentable and premature deaths. 
 Were there a moral society formed to critically inquire 
 into the fatal cases along the African coast, a fearful 
 catalogue of human frailties might be published, and it 
 would then be discovered that much that is attributed 
 to the climate ought justly to be ascribed to far different 
 causes. 
 
 But if there are any young men now in Europe 
 destined to spend a portion of their lives on the Congo, 
 let them remember — in addition to what is already 
 written about the inconveniences arising from circum- 
 stances beyond their control, such as from unhealthy 
 sites which, as in the case of Yivi, were compulsory — 
 that by exposure to any cool temperature after violent 
 exercise and copious perspiration, or by getting chilled 
 by a draught after leaving a warm room — all rooms 
 are comparatively warm in the tropics, however agree- 
 able they may be, — they unnecessarily increase these 
 inconveniences. Few constitutions are able to with- 
 stand these violent transitions from open pores to 
 closed pores, or from equable warm temperature to 
 sudden chill. 
 
 The philosophy of this is, that the high temperature 
 induced by exercise under a hot sun is soon cooled on 
 resting, and the excessive perspiration has reduced the 
 normal temperature of the body in the same manner as 
 water in a porous vessel is sooner cooled when exposed 
 to the sun's rays by the evaporation which is at once
 
 310 THE CONGO. 
 
 ^pllru~ started when the humid surface of the cooler feels 
 the effect of the heat. Water thus exposed becomes 
 agreeably cool, but the physical system of a man by 
 the same process becomes deranged ; the perspiration 
 is stopped, the pores are closed, and the body feels 
 disagreeably chilly. If the woollen garments have 
 become wetted by perspiration, rain, dew, or some 
 accident in the water, the process of deranging the 
 system is much more rapid. Exposure to the sun 
 causes the moisture on the garments to evaporate, and 
 at the same time conducts the normal heat from the 
 body, leaving it a prey to disease. You may now see 
 the reason why clerks, factory-men, and traders, who 
 rarely take exercise in the hot sunshine, can show a 
 better health list than Yivi officers, who have been 
 exposed during all hours to the sun in a hilly position, 
 the descent and ascent of which provoked unusual 
 perspiration, and subjected them to continual and ex- 
 traordinary effects of the organic functions. 
 
 Now another prime cause, which is also remediable, 
 of fevers all along the Congo cnnon, is that 90 per 
 cent, of the winds, as has been discovered by Dr. 
 Danckelman, blow from seaward up river, passing over 
 the miasmatic isles, swamps, and black mud deposits 
 between Boma and Banana, and tainting the air of all 
 the more healthy uplands that lie directly in the track 
 of the pest. Eesidences placed to leeward of this 
 draught, and openly exposed to it without some bar- 
 rier or shelter, are liable to be visited by the disease 
 which it engenders. The best protection against it
 
 ADVANTAGE OF TREE PLANTING. 311 
 
 is the planting of trees a little distance in front to ciimate- 
 serve as a screen, and to attract tiie miasma to them by 
 the foliage ; even a hedge is supposed by Sir Thomas 
 Watson to be better than nothing. Sir Thomas also 
 advises cultivation of the soil in front, and if possible 
 around, the residence. 
 
 Prevention, it is said, is better than cure ; and I 
 profess to be able, not perhaps to teach you how to 
 prevent all, but at least to reduce many, of these 
 tedious illnesses to which the carelessness and ignor- 
 ance of the white man in Africa makes him so liable. 
 The climate being so new and novel to you, as yours 
 is to the pure African, this ignorance is pardonable ; 
 but now that your reasoning powers are properly 
 directed, the longer you live in the tropics the better 
 you will be able to appreciate the grand maxim of 
 Shakespeare, " To a wise man all places on this earth 
 are ports and happy havens." 
 
 But those who seek to commit deliberate suicide and 
 wanton self-destruction through the insane practice 
 of hob-nobbing with every vinous friend they meet, I 
 cannot pity. Nay, I solemnly warn them that to drink 
 any wine, liquor, or other intoxicating beverage, in 
 a tropical country during the day, except when ad- 
 ministered under the direction of medical authority, 
 is the height of a folly that is dangerous to sound 
 health, and consequently to all bodily enjoyment.
 
 312 TEE CONGO. 
 
 Climate- 
 Part II. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 CLIMATE. — PART II. 
 
 Dr. von. Danckelman's observations — Definition of heat— Cold— Exposure 
 — Advantage of awnings — Equable temperature of the body — Tem- 
 perature in South America — Inequality of the Congo climate — Long 
 marches and gulps of cold water — A cool place — " He is only jokjng " 
 — " The White Man's Grave " — Advice to doctors — Food and drink — 
 Daily life — Medicine — Diseases — Meteorological Tables. 
 
 An" intending emigrant from Wasco County, in far 
 Oregon, has sent me the following questions, and I am 
 glad to receive them, since they afford me a reason for 
 popularising the information collated with vast in- 
 dustry by Dr, von Danckelman during his stay at one 
 of the stations on the Lower Congo. Those who 
 prefer to study the scientific brochure in the original 
 must be referred to the " Memoire sur les Observa- 
 tions Meteorologiques, sur la Climatologie de la Cote 
 sud-ouest d'Afrique en ge'neral, par A. von Danckelman, 
 Dr. Phil. Berlin : A. Asher et Cie. 1884." * 
 The emigrant says :— 
 
 " Will you please give information as to soil, climate, natural produc- 
 tions, general health, and adaptation to the wants of the civilised white 
 people ? 
 
 * The full and copious index attached to these volumes will enable 
 any one to discover the amount and variety of information contained 
 within the text.
 
 DR. VON DANCKELMAN^S OPINIONS. 313 
 
 "Please give us the average rainfall, how many inches, and how climate- 
 distributed ; how many months wet, and how many dry ; how many Part If. 
 inches of rain falls each month, and do(3S rain fall gently or in torrents? 
 Is the country good for stock-raising and farming ? Is that African pest 
 the Tsetse fly, that kills stock, found in the Great Interior Basin ? What 
 kinds of stock have you? How is agriculture carried on, and what 
 varieties of grain and vegetables are grown ? Have you plenty of timber, 
 and what varieties that is and will be valuable ? ])o you have severe 
 winds and thunderstorms ? Is Africa very hot ? Please state the greatest 
 heat, and whether great heat continues long, and please give the tem- 
 perature throughout the year. Are the natives favourable to the whites 
 settling in their country ? How can one procure land from them or the 
 International Association to get genuine title, and at Avhat cost per acre, 
 section, or league ? "What tax is there on the citizen or the settler ? Are 
 there many poisonous reptiles or very dangerous wild beasts ? Is game, 
 fishes, and wild fowls plenty, and of what kinds ? Does the Association 
 wish to encourage immigration ? 
 
 " Please give names of stations of the International Association, and 
 state whether on a river or lake, in the valley or jilains, or in the 
 mountains." 
 
 Another inquisitive person, who probably has an idea 
 that his constitution could stand the Congo climate 
 asks me " What kind of a heat is that of the Congo ? " 
 As perhaps the observations of Dr. Danckehnan may 
 convey to such an inquirer but an imperfect idea of 
 the subject, I cannot do better than reprint the very 
 popular definitions of heat given by James Bruce, the 
 traveller. He writes : — 
 
 " No. 1. It is warm when a man, so clothed, does not sweat when at 
 rest, but, upon moderate motion, perspires and cools again. 
 
 " No. 2. It is hot when a man perspires while at rest, and excessively • 
 on moderate motion. 
 
 " No. 3. It is very hot when a man with thin or little clothing perspires 
 much though at rest. 
 
 " No. 4. It is excessively hot when a man in his shirt perspires exces- 
 sively, when all motion is painful, and the knees feel feeble, as if after 
 a f ver. 
 
 " No. 5. It is extremely hot, when the strength fails, a disposition to 
 faint comes on, a straitness is found in the temples, as if a small cord was
 
 314 THE CONGO. 
 
 arawn tight around the head, the voice impaired, the skin dry, and the 
 head seems more than ordinarily large and light. From 70° to 78° 
 Fahrenheit is cool, from IT to 92" temperate ; at 92" begins warm. The 
 degree of the thermometer conveys this very inadequately." 
 
 "With such very clear definitions it will not be diffi- 
 cult for the rustic reader to understand the quality of 
 the heat of the Congo. The mean of the highest 
 observations of temperature is only 90° Fahrenheit, 
 while the mean of the lowest is only 67°. Clad in 
 clothes suitable for work, an European could perform 
 as much work on the Congo as he could in England, 
 provided a roof or awning was above his head. The 
 heat of the sun on a clear day rises from 100° to 115°, 
 which is naturally dangerous if a person stands still 
 and exposes himself to its influence. On the march it 
 is not to be feared for immediate fatal results. But 
 though not immediate, it excites violent perspiration, 
 consequent prostration and loss of energy little likely 
 to be recuperated rapidly in a new country like the 
 Congo. Hence in all my African records it will be 
 observed that I have confined my marches to the early 
 morning; between 6 a.m. and 11 a.m. 
 
 For three months of the year it is positively cold, 
 and during the rest of the year there is so much cloud, 
 and the heat is so tempered by the South Atlantic 
 breezes, that we seldom suffer from its intensity. 
 After a rainstorm which has cleared the atmosphere, 
 exposure to the direct force of the sun-heat would soon 
 prove the power of the equatorial sun. The nights 
 are cool, sometimes even cold, and a blanket is, after a 
 short time, felt to be indispensable for comfort.
 
 BANGEES OF EXPOSURE. 315 
 
 At the stations, missions, or factories, there is no ^'j'^f^'^r 
 
 ' ' ' Part II. 
 
 necessity ibr exposure ; a double thickness to the 
 umbrella affords ample covering, and there are few 
 localities where the shade of a tree is not conveniently 
 near while superintending the out-door work. Euro- 
 pean artisans would not be compelled to expose them- 
 selves excef)t on rare occasions ; but no precautions 
 can be too great if they prevent sunstrokes. The car- 
 penter, boat-builder, blacksmith, engineer, stone-mason, 
 bricklayer, and all such craftsmen, would l^e working 
 under sheds, where there is absolute safety. European 
 labourers or navvies are not and will not be needed. 
 If any skilled workman for road-making, in such 
 labour as blasting, may ever be required, the first duty 
 will be the coi;strnction of movable sheds. The sun is 
 the only real enemy to the European. To raise a safe 
 protection against its malign influences is always pos- 
 sible, though seldom practised The factory clerk's 
 position is the safest, but it is not infrequently dan- 
 gerous from other than climatic causes. The mis- 
 sionary mIso ought to be safe ; but before he arrives at 
 his destination lie has generally strained his strength 
 by insane pedestrian exercise and exploration of the 
 depths of gi-assy tunnels, to which the heat of a 
 Turkish bath bears no comparison. In one day's 
 march, too, he has several times filled his stomach with 
 cold water, and has undergone numerous transitions 
 and variations of temperature, the mean of which may 
 amount to 40° Fahrenheit. 
 
 Bruce's No. 1 definition of warmth describes the
 
 316 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— Congo climate. When the body is at rest the perspira 
 tion is imperceptible. But violent exercise, travelling 
 up and down hill, all powerful exertions under the 
 direct action of the sun, soon force copious perspiration. 
 In itself this might not be dangerous. The danger is 
 incurred when hastening for relief and coolness — the 
 shade of a tree or a verandah is sought, and the heed- 
 less exposure to the cold winds chills the clothing and 
 the body suddenly, effectually closing the pores of the 
 skin, to the utter derangement of the system. 
 
 Immunity from these derangements can easily be ob- 
 tained by the resident of a station, mission, factory, 
 plantation, or farm, by remembering to keep the tem- 
 perature of the body as equable as possible. In hotter 
 portions of the globe, such as at Para, under the South 
 American equator, where the variation is only 9° Fah- 
 renheit, the temperature renders tbe climate valuable 
 to invalids and conducive to old age. 
 
 Observations of the Para temperature, by a Mr. 
 Norris, show during the months of June, July, and 
 August, a mean temperature for June 80°, highest, 86°, 
 lowest, 77°; July, mean, 80°, highest, 86°, lowest, 77°; 
 for August, 81°, highest, 86, lowest, 77°. W. H. 
 Edwards says, " Moreover, we were never incommoded 
 by heat at night, and invariably slept under a blanket. 
 This equality of temperature renders the climate of 
 Para peculiarly favourable to health. The average of 
 life is as high as in tbe city of New York." 
 
 It is the inequality of the climate of the Congo that 
 must be guarded against. If the resident pays less
 
 TEMPEBA TURE. 317 
 
 attention to malaria and miasma, and devotes himself ciimate- 
 more to the study of preserving his system against the 
 pernicious influences of these excessive variations of 
 temperature, he need entertain but little fear of the 
 Congo. A book might be written illustrative of this 
 one fact. Who that will visit the scene of Tuckey's 
 travels will wonder now at the fatal results of his ex- 
 pedition ? One of his day's marches is over thirty 
 miles in length! He plunges into the grassy ravines 
 when the temperature is about 110^. He breasts 
 the hill slope, and the sun's heat is 115o. He strides 
 across the scorching plateaus into the depths of grassy 
 tunnels ; he descends to another ravine, at the bottom 
 of which there is a rivulet of clear cold water which 
 indicates 69°. With his stomach full of this cold water 
 he again cHmbs a steep slope at an angle of 45°, under 
 a sun-heat approaching to 115". to arrive at the summit 
 of a hill 600 feet higher, near which there is a shady 
 tree where the temperature is 72°. Here he rests 
 himself under its grateful shelter. The wind forces his 
 chilled flannel against his heated body ; but having 
 rested he again starts on his dreadful journey, to expose 
 himself several times during the day to these incredible 
 transitions. Late at night, 9 p.m., he arrives, worn 
 out with the excessive strains to which his system has 
 been subjected, and implores shelter at a native village. 
 Out of our 250 people w^e know several who have 
 performed the same extraordinary feats ; but they, 
 like Tuckey and his companions, have paid the last 
 of all earthly penalties, and it is sad to think that
 
 318 TEE CONGO. 
 
 chmate— ihej bavG giveii away their lives through avoidable 
 
 Part II. 
 
 causes. 
 
 On some men destined to perform great deeds in the 
 Congo State, these chapters on the climate will create 
 a desire to j^rotect themselves against the effects of 
 these inequalities, or variations of temperature ; on 
 others, destined to be failures, either to return, and rail 
 ignorantly against they know not what, or to enrich 
 the already fertile soil of Congo-land with their bodies, 
 they will have no effect. There are men who can read, 
 but know not how to reflect, who have eyes but see 
 not, and who have ears but hear not. As was said 
 of old, it is no less true to-day, that those whom the 
 Fates destine for early death, they first make mad. 
 
 I shall have to say to some one again, most probably, 
 what I said lately to a colonel fresh from England, 
 " That exposed corner is not conducive to good health ;" 
 and like the colonel he will reply, " Oh, nonsense, you 
 are chaffing me! This deliciously cool ^\'acq fatal! 
 Doctor, what do you say ? " 
 
 And the doctor, who was a traveller himself, a 
 wanderer over many lands, replied, " He is only joking." 
 Yet both colonel and doctor were, for a few days after- 
 wards, but little disposed to appreciate joking, despite 
 copious doses of Hop Bitters. 
 
 . I shall have to say again, as I did to an engineer 
 fresh from England, " My friend, that little black 
 saucer cap of the British mercantile service, though I 
 dare say very comfortable in a ship's engine room, is 
 but a poor protection against an African sun." And
 
 INATTENTION TO PRACTICAL ADVICE. 319 
 
 some en^^ineer will answer as he did, " I don't think cumate- 
 
 Part II. 
 
 so, sir. I feel very comfortable. I have been always 
 used to it." But that engineer never returned to 
 Europe. 
 
 I shall have to say again, I am sure, to some English 
 sailor, or Scotch engineer, " My friend, be warned by 
 me ! Cease that tippling which I hear you are accus- 
 tomed to. Scotch whisky, or Old Tom, liowever bene- 
 ficial in your native land against raw mist and icy 
 sleet, do not agree with an African sun ; " and the 
 sailor or Scotch engineer will reply, as before, " Oh, 
 I take very little, sir, it will do me no harm." But 
 neither the sailor or Scotch engineer returned to 
 gladden the eyes of the anxious mother at home. 
 
 Doctors who have written books of five and ten 
 pounds weight, containing a vast amount of learned 
 matter about the bacillus malarice and other matters, 
 will declare me to be an empiric ; but I will guarantee 
 that I can cure any one of them from that fanatic 
 faith in the pro[)hylaxis which they support. AVhile I 
 do not deny that there is a certain quantity of miasm 
 in the air, my belief is that it was the least of the evils 
 from which the members of our expedition suffered. 
 At Banana and Boma, in the midst of marshy exhala- 
 tions, situate almost at the water's edge, the Europeans 
 have enjoyed better health than our people at Tivi, on 
 that singular rock platform 340 feet above the river. 
 At Kinshassa, just ten feet above high-water, better 
 health has been enjoyed — indeed, almost complete im- 
 munity from sickness — than at Le'opoldville, five miles
 
 320 THE CONGO. 
 
 chmnte— bclow, situate eisflity-three feet above the river. At 
 
 Part II. ^ . . . 
 
 Equator Station, with a river only five feet below its 
 foundations, creeks sable, as ink surrounding it, the 
 ground unctuous with black fat alluvium, Europeans 
 enjoy better health than at Manyanga, 240 feet above 
 river, and 1100 feet above the sea. Fourteen miles 
 away from Manyanga, and eight miles removed from 
 the river, we have a station on the plain of Ngombi, 
 1500 feet above the sea, where our people have enjoyed 
 better health than at Manyanga Hill, 150 yards in 
 diameter, and ravines 200 feet deep are around it on 
 all sides, except at a narrow neck thirty yards across. 
 Banana Point (six degrees below the Equator) only 
 five feet above the brackish water of its creek, is 
 proved to be much healthier than Sierra Leone, over 
 eight degrees north, which has been called the " white 
 man's grave," despite the number of medical inspectors 
 who have employed their best judgment and experience 
 in endeavouring to modify the fatal influences that 
 seem to surround the latter place. But the residents 
 of that colony may now know by studying the dia- 
 grams of the preceding chapter, that the fearful sick- 
 ness which has frequently decimated the European 
 inhabitants has not been due so much to the malaria as 
 to the fact that their town is surrounded by the 
 Lion Hill and its hilly neighbours, between the gaps 
 of which sweep the sea breezes, suddenly chilling the 
 bodies of people who are enveloped by the close heat 
 engendered within its bowl-like position. 
 
 I have been so frequently rebuffed by the callous in-
 
 INDIFFERENCE TO LIFE. 321 
 
 difference of those I had hoped to save, that my interest ciimate- 
 in the preservation of Hfe has become briefer, much less 
 acnte, and not so universal as it was formerly. For I 
 may well ask, why should I be anxious about the health 
 of a person who is utterly indifferent to it himself? 
 Why should I care whether people prefer to lounge in 
 draughty corners to cool their heated bodies, whether 
 they fire their brains with alcoholic liquors, or wear 
 little saucer-shaped caps, and invite the equatorial sun 
 to scorch their heads? In Congo-land, as elsewhere, a 
 man may do as he pleases with his own person ; and 
 if he be disjjosed to blow his brains right out of his 
 head, Heaven knows I should be tempted to agree with 
 him, that after all it would be the wisest plan. To 
 such, how^ever, as love their duty even better than 
 they love their life, my remarks may tend to pre- 
 serve that life for the performance of that duty, and 
 possibly may also tend to stimulate an endeavour to 
 discover other causes that are deleterious to health, to 
 be followed by the discovery of methods reforming 
 the medical treatment now pursued with such poor 
 success. 
 
 Our doctors would also do w^ell to study what are 
 the best foods required by those who live in the tropics, 
 A fertile physiological field for exploration and dis- 
 covery lies in this direction. I would gladly essay to 
 attempt something in this line were I not convinced 
 that a medico, blessed with a little common sense, 
 might write with greater authority. Personally, I 
 would wish to impress a few things upon the mind 
 Vol. II.— 21
 
 322 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 riimnte— of the medical explorer, as tliey relate to those " other 
 causes deleterious to health." 
 
 We know from bitter experience that alcoholic liquor 
 taken in the daytime invite sunstroke and sun-fevers. 
 To avoid these we have to rely upon tea and coffee. 
 But tea is an astringent, and unless it is pure, has a 
 depressing; tendency. Coffee, commonly believed to be 
 stimulating, is more frequently the reverse. The oily 
 skim on the cocoa again, apart from its insipidity, 
 creates a distrust of its bilious properties. Milk as yet 
 is not to be obtained, although perhaps, in the luture, 
 it may be more plentiful. Soup presupposes some 
 animal meat from which it could be concocted ; and 
 ox-beef or mutton are precisely what the Congo cannot 
 furnish awa}^ from the Lower River, while a compound 
 extracted from goat-meat three or four times a day 
 cannot be very satisfying, even if varied with chicken 
 broth. Besides this, their dietary education has predis- 
 posed the majority of temperate Europeans to some- 
 thing different, principally tea and coffee. The former, 
 however, as I have said, if taken inordinately, is also a 
 source of trouble. Palm wine exercises a dangerous 
 effect upon the kidneys and stomach unless drunk 
 when perfectly fresh. 
 
 Not the least among our failings on the Congo is the 
 decided distaste we all of us soon entertain for the 
 potted "American, Australian, and New Zealand" 
 beef and mutton and fish, despite the loud exaggera- 
 tive phrases bestowed upon these delicacies by the 
 food preparers. A native ^'oat, however tough and rank
 
 TINNED MEAT. 323 
 
 its meat may be, is invariably preferred. The potted oiimate- 
 
 ... Ml n 1 I'^'ti'- 
 
 sardines, swimming m sweet-oil, or the yellow salmon, 
 
 in its yellower unctuous matter, do not provoke the 
 apjDetite, but suggest biliousness. All that is left which 
 may be said to be perfectly safe is limited in the 
 extreme — home-made bread, rice, a few vegetables, 
 fruits, and condensed milk. 
 
 What we need most on the Congo is some harmless, 
 mild liquid, which is agreeable and palatable, unine- 
 briating as tea and as inoffensive to the stomach, as 
 milk, which neither affects the nerves nor kidneys, and 
 is a portable food easily assimilated by the digestive 
 organs. Until some earnest physiological student can 
 assist our deficiencies, I propose the following simple 
 rules to be observed by those to whom the preserva- 
 tion of their lives has some interest. 
 
 1. In the building of your house, mission, or factory, 
 observe w^ell i<s position. Never build, if you can avoid 
 it, in a gorge, valley, ravine, or any deep depression of 
 land that may serve as a channel for collected wind 
 currents. A free diffusion of air is required in your 
 surroundings. The nearest points to the sea, plains, 
 extended plateaus, as far removed as possible from any 
 dominating superior heights that would cause iiregular 
 air-currents, are the safest localities. The lower story 
 should be clear of the ground, unless you have made 
 the floor imporous by cement or asphalte. In a grassy 
 plain the floor of your living room should be at least 
 twelve feet above tbe ground. 
 
 2. Avoid unnecessary exposure to the sun.
 
 324 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate — 
 Part II. 
 
 3. Gruard against tlie fogs, dews, and chills of even- 
 ino; and nio-ht. 
 
 4. Let your diet be as good as your circumstances 
 will permit, but be prudent in your choice. Butter, 
 cheese, and dishes swimming in oleaginous matter, are 
 unsuitable to the conditions of the climate. Roasted 
 ground-nuts are a mistake. 
 
 Always reject the fat of meats on your plate. All 
 fats cause bile, rancidity, and nausea in the tropics. 
 
 Never begin the day with an early meal of meats. 
 Bread made at the station is better than biscuits. 
 
 The continental cafe or the au lait, is the wisest meal 
 with which to break your fast. 
 
 At 11 A.M. cease work, and eat your wise dejeuner — 
 lean of meats, fish, vegetables, dry bread, and weak 
 black tea with condensed milk. 
 
 At 1.30 P.M. proceed to your work, and at 6.30 p.m. 
 take your prudent dinner — boiled fish, roast fowl, roast 
 mutton, vegetables, dry bread, rice, tapioca, sago, and 
 macaroni pudding, w^ith weak claret, or two ounces of 
 jMadeira in water, or so much champagne and water. 
 Amuse yourself with social conversation or reading 
 until 9 P.M., when you may retire to your dreamless 
 couch to rise up next morning with brain clear and 
 muscle primed for toil, and with a love for all the world. 
 
 5. Sleep on blankets, and cover up to the waist with 
 a blanket or woollens. 
 
 G. If marching, rise up at 5 a.m., take your cafe or the 
 au lait, and be ready for the road at 5.30 a.m. Halt at 
 11 A.M.. in mercy to yourself, your men, and your
 
 ADVICE ABOUT DAILY LIFE. 325 
 
 animals, and do no more for the day. On haltincr *^!!"^^^V 
 put on your paletot or wrapper, to allow you to cool 
 gradually. If your camp is on an exposed situation, 
 get under shelter as quickly as though it were raining. 
 You may perform 4000 miles per annum at this rate. 
 
 7. Observe the strictest temperance. Drop all 
 thought of tonics, according to the rules of " west 
 coasters," " old traders," " African travellers," or your 
 own self-deceiving fancies. If you are in absolute need 
 of a tonic apply to the doctor, or to the simple rule of 
 never during daylight taking more than one ounce of 
 any liquor or wine. Your best tonic would be two grains 
 of quinia, as prepared by Burroughs and Welcome,* of 
 Snow Hill Buildings, London. If thirsty at a station or 
 factory, prepare a glass of sherbet. If marching, drop 
 a compressed tablet of aciduous powder, as prepared by 
 these chemists, in your cup of water, or quench your 
 thirst from your sweetened and weak tea in the bottle. 
 
 8. If engaged in outdoor work superintending 
 coloured labourers, never for an instant be in the sun 
 without a strong double umbrella — a large one fastened 
 to your piked staff, like a small tent, would be better 
 still. For head-dress you have a choice of cork helmet, 
 topee, or Congo cap,t the latter of Avhich is the best 
 of all. 
 
 * These chemists have prepared drugs which I can conscientiously 
 recommend as adapted for tropical regions. They have prepared small 
 doses in tablets of nearly every medicine that may be required, which 
 may be taken without creating nausea, a valuable desideratum, as all 
 will admit who have suffered from the foul nauseating smell of medicines 
 as commonly prepared by druggists. 
 
 t Observe cap in photograph of author.
 
 326 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— 9. If diu'ing tlie marcli YOU Lave been so imprudent 
 
 Part II. 
 
 as to be without an ample nmbrella, a \N4etting need not 
 necessarily be dangerous ; but it becomes positively so 
 if after excessive perspiration, rain, or an accident at 
 a river crossing, you remain any time quiescent with 
 out changing your dress. 
 
 10. When on the march the lighter you are clad the 
 better, because at the halt you will be reminded of the 
 necessity of your paletot or overcoat. Very light 
 flannel will be quite sufficient for your dress, owing to 
 the exercise you take. Light russet shoes for the ^qq\, 
 knickerbockers of light flannel, a loose light flannel 
 shirt, a roll of flannel round tlie waist, and a Congo 
 cap for the head, will enable you to travel twelve 
 miles per day without distress. 
 
 11. At the station, factory, or mission, your clothing 
 should also be light, though not in the undress uniform 
 of the road, because you know not what work you may 
 take at any moment causing profuse perspiration, which 
 should be avoided when circumstances do not compel it. 
 
 12. It is to be presumed that you will not forget your 
 exercise. Between 6 and 7 a.m. and 5 and 6 p.m. are 
 safe hours if your principal work is indoors, 
 
 13. Do not bathe in cold water unless you are but 
 newly arrived from a temperate climate. The tempera- 
 ture of your batli is not safe below 85°. Let your 
 bath be in tlie morning, or before dinner. The tepid 
 bath is the most suitable. 
 
 14. Fruit, if taken at all, should be eaten in the 
 morning — before the cnfe or tJic au laii — such as
 
 MEDICINE, ETC. 327 
 
 oranges, mangoes, ripe bananas, guavas, and papaws ; '^p'^.^'Jr 
 only the juice of the pine-apple is to be recommended. 
 Never eat any fruit in the tropics at dinner. 
 
 Medicine. — Obtain your medicine pure and well pre- 
 pared. Messrs. Bunoughs and Welcome will equip 
 you with tropic medicines in chests or cases, with sup- 
 plies to last you one month or ten years. They have 
 sought the best medical advice, and really seem dis- 
 posed to study the special needs of the East, West, 
 Central, Northern, or Southern African traveller, 
 soldier, trader, and missionary. 1 have informed them 
 of the few diseases such as have fallen under my obser- 
 vation, and they have prepared such medicines as have 
 been tried during the last seventeen years of my 
 African experiences. 
 
 The same prudence that is required for protection 
 against draughts, sudden chills, catarrhs, bronchitis, 
 and pulmonary diseases in Euroj)e, should be exercised, 
 with the only difference that in the tropics the clothing 
 necessary to effect due care should not be so heavy. 
 
 On proceeding to tropical Africa, most inexperienced 
 people are victims to chaff from the officers of the 
 steamers that leave Europe. Such " guys " in costume 
 and manner ask so many silly questions that they pro- 
 voke the officers to take advantage of their inexperience, 
 which results in creating vague fears of unknown and 
 fatal diseases, so that by the time they arrive on the 
 coast, their morale is frequently destroyed, and their 
 systems unnerved. 
 
 The diseases on the Congo are very simple, consisting
 
 o28 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— of fevcrs and dysentery. The fevers are of three 
 
 Part II. _ 
 
 kinds, common ague, remittent, and a pernicious bilious 
 fever. 
 
 The common ague is less to be feared than an 
 English cold. I have never known it to end fatally. 
 It lasts generally from one to three days. This may 
 result from a small quantity of miasm in the air ; but 
 the remedies are so very simple that the initiated may 
 cure themselves in a short time. In nine cases out of 
 ten the initiated may also ward it off completely, 
 warned in time by cei'tain symptoms which inform 
 them that there is a slight derangement. 
 
 The remittent fever is simply an exaggeration of 
 ague, brought on according to the degree of exposure 
 to the sun, perspiration, and chill. This form may 
 last several days. 
 
 The pernicious bilious type is an aggravated remit- 
 tent fever. It is more violent in its symptoms, is 
 attended with serious complications, and consequently 
 more dangerous. Its severity depends upon the habits 
 of the patient, and the amount of exposure, excessive 
 fatigue and prostration incurred. This form may be al- 
 together prevented by living wisely and well, by bearing 
 in mind and implicitly following the above simple rules. 
 Many attempt self-cure by drinking brandy, whisky, or 
 gin, and smoking tobacco to excess. But liquor and 
 tobacco are not prophylactics against any disease. 
 
 Some brief extracts, from Dr. Martin's book, ' In- 
 fluences of Tropical Climates,' will corroborate all that 
 I have written here.
 
 Dn. MARTIN'S OBSERVATIONS. 329 
 
 I. " Care in diet, clothing, and exercise are more essential for the climate- 
 preservation of health than medical treatment." Part II. 
 
 '2. " The real way to escape disease is by observing strict temperance, 
 and to moderate the heat by all possible means." 
 
 3. "After heat has morbifically predisposed the body, the sudden 
 influence of cold has the most baneful influence on the human frame." 
 
 4. " The great physiological rule for preserving health in hot climates 
 is to keep the body cool. Common sense points out the propriety of 
 avoiding heating drinks." 
 
 5. "The cold bath is death in the collajise which follows any great 
 fatigue of body or mind." 
 
 6. " Licentious indulgence is far more dangerous and destructive than 
 in Euroi^e." 
 
 7. " A large amount of animal food, instead of giving strength, heats 
 the blood, renders the system feverish, and consequently weakens the 
 whole body." 
 
 8. " Bread is one of the best articles of diet. Eice, split vetches, are 
 wholesome and nixtritious. Vegetables are essential to good health, such 
 as carrots, turnips, onions, native greens, &c." 
 
 9. " Fruit, when sound and ripe, is beneficial instead of hurtful." 
 
 10. " The same amount of stimulant undiluted is much more in- 
 jurious than when mixed with water." 
 
 II. " With ordinary precaution and attention to the common laws of 
 hygiene, Europeans may live as lung in the trojjics as elsewhere." 
 
 One more observation will suffice. However well 
 the European may endure the climate by wise self- 
 government, years of constant high temperature assisted 
 by the monotony and poverty of the diet, cannot be 
 otherwise than enervating and depressing, although 
 life may not be endangered. The physical force, vigour, 
 or strength becomes debilitated by the heat, necessi- 
 tating after a few years recuperation in a temperate 
 climate. To preserve perfect health, I advise the 
 trader, missionary, coffee planter, and agriculturist, 
 who hopes to maintain his full vigour after eighteen 
 months' residence, to seek three months' recreation in 
 Northern Europe ; for the same reason that a man de- 
 voted to absorbing business in a European city for
 
 tm 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— eighteen months would do wisely to take a few months' 
 holiday. Beyond what has been told above, there is 
 nothing in Congo-land to daunt a man ; indeed, far 
 less than in many parts of India, South America, or 
 the West Indies. 
 
 My object, as will have been seen, is to eradicate 
 this silly fear of the climate. The above rules, if 
 observed, will prevent at least three-fourths of the 
 maladies that have punished our imprudent youths. 
 Possibly the judicious will find reward in following 
 their guidance as nearly as possible, the injudicious 
 and unreflecting will also have their reward. 
 
 The following tables contain portions of the valuable 
 meteorological observations of Dr. Danckelman relating 
 to the climatology of the Congo region : — 
 Temperature observed at Vivi.* 
 
 1882. 
 
 January . 
 
 February 
 March . 
 April 
 l\Iay . . 
 June . 
 July . . 
 August , 
 September 
 October . 
 Noveiuber 
 December 
 
 Mean highest .... 
 
 Mean lowest .... 
 
 Mean variation — 
 Highest temperature in) 
 
 1882, on 5th Nov. LS82 . | 
 Lowest 2;h1i Jiily, 1882 . 
 
 „ llJth Julv, 1883 . 
 
 Fahrenheit. 
 Maximum. 
 
 90 
 
 yi 
 
 92 
 93 
 94 
 86 
 84 
 85 
 89 
 93 
 97 
 91 
 
 90-7 
 
 97 
 
 Fahrenheit. 
 Minimum. 
 
 70 
 68 
 69 
 68 
 67 
 60 
 56 
 56 
 67 
 68 
 69 
 70 
 
 67-3 
 
 54 
 
 57 
 
 Variation. 
 
 20 
 26 
 23 
 25 
 27 
 26 
 28 
 29 
 22 
 25 
 26 
 21 
 
 25 
 
 By Dr. Dauckelman.
 
 OBSERVATIONS OF TEMPERATURE. 
 
 331 
 
 Annual Vauiation of Barometer in Millimetres. 
 
 1882. May .... 
 June .... 
 July .... 
 August . 
 September . 
 October . 
 
 6-5 
 
 1882. 
 
 November 
 
 5-6 
 
 
 December 
 
 4-9 
 
 1883. 
 
 January . 
 
 6-2 
 
 
 February . 
 
 5-8 
 
 
 Marcli . 
 
 5-2 
 
 
 April . . 
 
 5-3 
 5-9 
 5-9 
 G-2 
 5-7 
 5-7 
 
 Climate — 
 Fart II. 
 
 Vivi Station, by boiling point, is . 
 „ by Fortin's barometer 
 
 „ by three large aneroids 
 
 Height of river level at Vivi . 
 
 „ station above river by tri 
 gouometry 
 
 „ station above river by aneroid 343 
 
 427 feet above sea level. 
 430 
 
 428 
 84 
 
 2761 
 
 Influence of the State of the Sky on Temperature.* 
 
 Vivi, 1882-1883. 
 
 Number of 
 Clear liays. 
 
 Temperature. 
 
 Clouded 
 Days. 
 
 Temperature. 
 Fahrenheit. 
 
 January .... 
 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 76 
 
 February 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 80 
 
 3 
 
 77 
 
 March . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 79 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 
 April . 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 78 
 
 
 
 
 
 May . . 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 77 
 
 3 
 
 76 
 
 June . 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 73 
 
 8 
 
 71 
 
 July . . 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 71 
 
 7 
 
 70 
 
 August . 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 71 
 
 8 
 
 70 
 
 September 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 76 
 
 9 
 
 74 
 
 October . 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 77 
 
 4 
 
 75 
 
 November 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 83 
 
 2 
 
 75 
 
 December 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 81 
 
 4 
 
 77 
 
 1882-1883. Number of Days. 
 
 Sky entirely overcast 44 
 
 „ nearly „ 115 
 
 „ gloomy 135 
 
 „ nearly serene 58 
 
 ' „ quite „ 10 
 
 Of 109S observations of direction of wind at Vivi, by 
 Dr. Danckelman, he records the following : — 
 
 Calm. N. NN.E. N.E. E.N.E. E. E.S.E. S.E. S.S.E. S. S.S.W. S.W. 
 
 195 86 1 8 10 3 13 3 3 11 32 422 
 
 WSW. W. AV.N.W. N.AV. N.N.W. 
 
 102 106 16 19 8 
 * Observations by Dr. Danckelman.
 
 332 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— ^^ nooii the direction of wind currents are between 
 
 rart II. 
 
 west and north, as follows : — 
 
 32 
 
 W. W.N.W. N.W. N.N.AV. N. 
 
 per cent. 11 per cent. 16 per cent. 12 per cent. 13 per cent. 
 
 At 3 p.M.:- 
 
 74 per cent. 
 
 AV.N.W. 
 
 10 per cent. 
 
 N.W. 
 
 6 per cent. 
 
 At 9 P.M. and with stronger force : — 
 
 S. S.S.W. S.W. W.S.W. w. 
 
 10 per cent. 26 per cent. 21 per cent. 14 per cent. 18 per cent. 
 
 He also observed how often the wind blew in such 
 force as to make the wooden structures of Vivi tremble.* 
 
 May, 1882 
 
 11 times. 
 
 December, 1882 
 
 . 2 times 
 
 June „ 
 
 17 „ 
 
 January, 1883 
 
 • 6 „ 
 
 July 
 
 13 „ 
 
 March „ 
 
 • 4 „ 
 
 August „ 
 
 12 „ 
 
 April „ 
 
 • „ 
 
 September „ 
 
 15 „ 
 
 May 
 
 • y „ 
 
 October „ 
 
 17 » 
 
 June „ 
 
 • 8 „ 
 
 November „ 
 
 2 ,, 
 
 July 
 
 • 17 „ 
 
 The velocity of the wind measured by the anemometer 
 as recorded by Dr. Danckelman is as follows : 
 
 om 2 June 
 
 to 12 June . . 
 
 . 145*1 miles 
 
 per day. 
 
 „ 12 „ 
 
 „ 22 „ . 
 
 . 146-6 
 
 
 ,, 22 „ 
 
 „ 2 July . 
 
 . 109-4 
 
 
 „ 2 July 
 
 „ 12 „ . 
 
 . . 98-4 
 
 
 » 12 „ 
 
 V 22 „ . 
 
 . 142-0 
 
 
 » 22 „ 
 
 „ 1 Aug. . 
 
 . 106-0 
 
 
 „ 1 Aug. 
 
 „ 11 „ . 
 
 . 141 -1 
 
 
 ,, 11 „ 
 
 „ 21 „ . 
 
 . 183-5 
 
 
 ,. 21 „ 
 
 » 31 „ 
 
 . 166-4 
 
 
 „ 31 „ 
 
 „ 10 Sept. . 
 
 . 166-1 
 
 
 * Such strong blasts would scarcely be noticeable on the sea-coast, 
 which proves how the funnel-shaped gorge or canon collects the gentle 
 sea-breezes, and draws them up until the wind becomes a strong gab.
 
 WIND OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 333 
 
 From 10 Sept. 
 
 to 20 Sept. 
 
 „ 20 „ 
 
 „ 30 „ 
 
 
 , 30 „ 
 
 „ 10 Oct. 
 
 
 , 10 Oct. 
 
 „ 20 „ 
 
 
 , 20 „ 
 
 » 30 „ 
 
 
 , 30 „ 
 
 to 9 Nov. 
 
 
 , 9 Nov. 
 
 „ 19 „ 
 
 
 , 19 „ 
 
 „ 29 „ 
 
 
 , 29 „ 
 
 „ 9 Dec. 
 
 
 , 9 Dec. 
 
 » 19 „ 
 
 
 , 19 „ 
 
 )> ^^ 5> 
 
 
 „ 29 „ 
 
 „ 8 Jan. 
 
 
 „ 8 Jan. 
 
 » 18 „ 
 
 
 „ 28 „ 
 
 „ 7 Feb. 
 
 
 „ 7 r eb. 
 
 „ 17 „ 
 
 
 ,, 17 „ 
 
 „ 27 ., 
 
 
 „ 27 „ 
 
 „ 9 March 
 
 
 „ 9 Mar. 
 
 ,, 19 „ 
 
 
 „ 19 „ 
 
 „ 29 „ 
 
 
 „ 29 „ 
 
 „ 8 April 
 
 152 2 miles 
 
 per day. 
 
 Climate- 
 
 192-7 
 
 )> 
 
 Part II 
 
 221-7 
 
 >> 
 
 
 225-4 
 
 '» 
 
 
 159-2 
 
 >> 
 
 
 136-9 
 
 »» 
 
 
 114-4 
 
 >» 
 
 
 90-1 
 
 )) 
 
 
 66-G 
 
 j> 
 
 
 65-3 
 
 » 
 
 
 76-5 
 
 » 
 
 
 116-1 
 
 >» 
 
 
 121-6 
 
 j> 
 
 
 85-4 
 
 j> 
 
 
 89-2 
 
 5J 
 
 
 74-9 
 
 51 
 
 
 85-3 
 
 5J 
 
 
 102-4 
 
 » 
 
 
 95-2 
 
 >J 
 
 
 75-0 
 
 J> 
 
 
 At Vivi the strongest winds blow at night, from 
 south-westerly up the Congo. Between Stanley Pool 
 and the expansion of the Congo above Chumbiri be- 
 tween 9 A.M. and 4 p.m., during which lime the winds 
 are strong gales frequently. At night it is calm, and 
 the native canoes resume their journeys. 
 
 Above the Equator the strongest winds are between 
 1 P.M. and 3 p.m. 
 
 About rains on the Lower Congo, Dr. Danckelman 
 makes the followmG: observations : — 
 
 "At Vivi the most copions rains fall during the months of November 
 and April. In 1882 the rains ceased on the 12tli of May, but a small 
 shower was observe.l on the 18th of May. Tlien appeared the dry 
 season, which continued till the 10th of October. A month later 
 serious rains began on the 10th of November, lasting till the 27th 
 of November. There was a cessation in the rainfall until the 6th of 
 December. 
 
 "Between the 27tli of December and the lltli of Januaiy there was 
 nnotlicr dry interval, and between the 29tU of January and 16th of
 
 334 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate— February no rain fell. In March rainy days were separated by many 
 Part II. dry days, but in April the rains were nearly continuous. The greatest 
 rainfall measured on one day 0-433 inch, on the night of the 17th 
 December, 1882, and lasted 2 hours £0 minutes." 
 
 Dr. Danckelman has tabulated the rainfalls as 
 
 follows : — 
 
 English Incbes. 
 
 January ...... 2 '888 
 
 February 1-404: 
 
 March 5-616 
 
 April 9-009 
 
 May 1-989 
 
 June 0-000 
 
 July 0-039 
 
 August 0-000 
 
 September 0-000 
 
 October 0-507 
 
 November 11-232 
 
 December 8 '853 
 
 Inches 
 
 41-537 
 
 While travelling I observed the rainfalls by time, 
 and the result may be seen in the following table : 
 
 1880-1881. 1 
 
 1881-1882 
 
 
 Months. 
 
 H. M. 
 
 Months. 
 
 K. M. 
 
 September 
 
 . 5 
 
 September 
 
 27 30 
 
 October . . 
 
 . 11 15 
 
 October 
 
 27 50 
 
 November 
 
 . 40 
 
 November 
 
 56 5 
 
 December . 
 
 . 42 
 
 December . 
 
 15 30 
 
 January . 
 
 . 28 
 
 January . 
 
 25 10 
 
 February . 
 
 . 73 
 
 February . 
 
 49 30 
 
 March . . 
 
 . . 30 30 
 
 March . . . 
 
 15 
 
 April . 
 
 . 28 
 
 * April . 
 
 25 
 
 May . . 
 
 . . 24 
 
 May . . . 
 
 9 
 
 
 281 45 
 
 250 35
 
 BAINFALL OBSERVATIONS: 
 
 335 
 
 Eainfall 1880-1881. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Character of Rain. 
 
 H. M. 
 
 Hours per 
 Month. 
 
 
 1880. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sept. 9 . 
 
 Misty rain, lasting . 
 
 15 
 
 
 , 
 
 „ 11 . 
 
 J> 5> • • 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 » 12 . 
 
 ?> 9) • ' 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 » 13 . 
 
 )> JJ • • 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 „ 11 . 
 
 )) 11 ' • 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 15 
 
 i Strong shower (thunder 1 
 \ and lightning) . . \ 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 „ LO . 
 
 
 
 „ 19 . 
 
 Slight shower . 
 
 ( Heavy rain (thunder) 
 ( and lightning) . . \ 
 
 1 
 
 5-00 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 Oct. 19 . 
 
 
 
 „ 24 . 
 
 Slight shower . 
 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 „ 25 . 
 
 Heavy rain . 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 „ 27 . 
 
 Slight rain . 
 
 , 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 „ 28 . 
 
 11 • 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 29 
 
 11 
 
 , 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 Much rain .... 
 
 
 11-15 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 Nov. 1 . 
 
 
 
 „ 2 . 
 
 Smart shower 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 „ 8 . 
 
 Heavy rain . 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 » 4 . 
 
 It 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 „ 5 . 
 
 Slight shower 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 » 10 . 
 
 Heavy rain . 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Between Vivi and 
 
 „ 11 . 
 
 Smart shower 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 Isangila. 
 
 » 12 . 
 
 Slight shower 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 „ 14 . 
 
 Showery . 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 „ 15 . 
 
 Heavy rain . 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 „ 19 . 
 
 Slight rain . 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 „ 25 . 
 
 55 
 
 
 
 ^0 
 
 
 
 „ 28 . 
 
 Steady rain . 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 
 Heavy rain .... 
 
 
 40-00 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 
 Dec. 2 . 
 
 
 
 „ 4 . 
 
 .... 
 
 9 
 
 
 
 „ 5 . 
 
 Steady rain .... 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 „ 6 . 
 
 55 .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 » 9 
 
 Heavy shower . . . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 „ 11 . 
 
 Heavy rain, lasting 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 „ 12 . 
 
 Shower 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 ,, 15 . 
 
 Heavy rain .... 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 „ 18 . 
 
 Moderate rain . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 „ 20 . 
 
 Heavy shower and storm 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 » 21 . 
 
 Storm and rain . 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 „ 23 . 
 
 Slight rain .... 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 » 28 . 
 
 Heavy shower . 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 „ 30 . 
 
 Showery 
 
 1 30 
 
 42-00 
 ■ / 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 Climate — 
 Part II.
 
 336 
 
 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 
 
 Climate— 
 
 
 
 1 1 ■ 
 
 P'-^rt II. p,te. 
 
 Character of Rain. 
 
 Hours per 
 "■ "• Month. 
 
 
 1881. 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jan. 4 . 
 
 Eain 
 
 2 
 
 
 ^ 
 
 „ 8 . 
 
 >■> 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 „ 9 . 
 
 ii 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 „ 15 . 
 
 „ 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 » 28 . 
 
 Light rain .... 
 )) .... 
 
 10 
 
 23-00 
 
 Bet ween Vi viand 
 
 
 12 
 
 Isangila. 
 
 Feb. 4 . 
 
 
 
 „ 5 . 
 
 Heavy rain 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 „ 6 . 
 
 Light rain 
 
 
 
 11 
 
 
 J 
 
 „ 11 . 
 
 Heavy rain 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 
 „ 13 . 
 
 j> 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 ' 
 
 „ 14 . 
 
 
 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 „ 28 . 
 
 Slight rain 
 
 
 
 13 
 
 
 
 
 Light rain .... 
 
 
 73-00 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 Mar. 4 . 
 
 
 
 
 , 6 . 
 
 jt 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 , 7 . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 , 9 . 
 
 }) 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 , 11 . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 , 18 . 
 
 » 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 , 19 . 
 
 f) 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 ) 
 
 , 23 . 
 
 Heavy rain, lasting 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 ) 
 
 , 30 . 
 
 Heavy shower . 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 , 31 . 
 
 Light rain .... 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 30 -SO 
 
 
 April 2 . 
 
 )> .... 
 
 30 
 
 
 Between Isangila 
 and Manyanga. 
 
 „ 4 . 
 
 }> 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 ,, 5 . 
 
 >> 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 „ 7 . 
 
 » 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 „ 8 . 
 
 )) 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 „ 9 . 
 
 Heavy rain . 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 „ 10 . 
 
 Light rain . 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 „ 14 . 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 2 30 
 
 
 
 „ 18 . 
 
 >) 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 ,, 19 . 
 
 )) 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 „ 21 . 
 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 „ 22 . 
 
 ,, 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 „ 23 . 
 
 Heavy rain . 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 „ 24 . 
 
 Light rain . 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 28-00 
 
 
 
 
 
 May 4 . 
 
 „ 7 . 
 „ 1] . 
 
 
 
 
 
 Heavy rains, about 
 
 24 
 
 24-00 
 
 
 » 13 . 
 
 ) 

 
 RAINFALL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 337 
 
 Rainfall 1881-1882. 
 
 Date. 
 
 Character of Raiu. 
 
 H. M. 
 
 Hours per 
 Month. 
 
 
 1881. 
 Sept. 19 . 
 
 1 Heavy rain (thunder! 
 \ and lightning) . . J 
 
 8 
 
 
 \ 
 
 „ 20 . 
 
 Light rain .... 
 
 2 30 
 
 
 
 „ 23 . 
 
 jt .... 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 „ 24 . 
 
 9» .... 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 „ 30 . 
 
 Moderate .... 
 
 7 
 
 27-30 
 
 
 Oct. 5 . 
 
 Heavy shower . 
 
 3 
 
 
 „ 11 . 
 
 Shower 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 „ 13 . 
 
 Shght shower . , . 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 „ 17 . 
 
 » .... 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 „ 24 . 
 
 5> .... 
 
 2 30 
 
 
 
 
 » 26 . 
 
 Heavy shower . . . 
 
 2 
 
 
 Between 
 
 
 „ 28 . 
 » 29 . 
 „ 31 . 
 
 » .... 
 
 Light rain .... 
 
 ,, .... 
 
 2 
 8 
 8 
 
 
 \ Manyanga and 
 / Stanley Pool. 
 
 
 55 .... 
 
 6 
 
 27-50 
 
 
 Nov. 1 . 
 
 
 
 „ 4 . 
 
 55 .... 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 » 6 . 
 
 55 .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 ., 7 . 
 
 55 .... 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 „ 10 . 
 
 55 .... 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 „ 14 . 
 
 » .... 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 „ 18 . 
 
 Heavy shower . . . 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 „ 20 . 
 
 „ ... 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 „ 26 . 
 
 Sh'ght shower . . . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 „ 2r . 
 
 Light rain .... 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 jj .... 
 
 4 
 
 56-5 
 
 / 
 
 Dec. 8 . 
 
 
 
 \ 
 
 „ 7 . 
 
 ,, .... 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 „ 14 . 
 
 Showery 
 
 1 30 
 
 
 
 » 22 . 
 
 5) .... 
 
 30 
 
 
 
 „ 25 . 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 „ 27 . 
 
 Heavy rain .... 
 
 3 30 
 
 15-30 
 
 
 -I oor\ 
 
 
 
 1882. 
 
 
 
 Jan. 14 . 
 
 55 .... 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 „ 17 . 
 
 )) .... 
 
 3 10 
 
 
 
 » 20 . 
 
 Sh'ght showers . 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 » 21 . 
 
 Very sh'ght .... 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 „ 29 . 
 
 Light rain .... 
 
 7 
 
 
 ) Leopoldvillo. 
 
 » 31 . 
 
 Heavy rain .... 
 
 5 
 
 
 
 
 Showery 
 
 6 
 
 25-10 
 
 ' 
 
 Feb. 1 . 
 
 
 
 » 5 . 
 
 Violent rainstorm 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 ; 
 
 , 8 . 
 
 )? yj • 
 
 15 
 
 
 
 J 
 
 , 10 . 
 
 Showery 
 
 1 30 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 , 14 . 
 
 Steady rain .... 
 
 8 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 , 16 . 
 
 55 .... 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 , 
 
 , 17 . 
 
 Slight shower . 
 
 4 
 
 
 
 > 
 
 21 
 
 Moderate rain . . . 
 
 7 
 
 
 
 
 
 — 
 
 49-30 
 
 
 
 
 
 Climate- 
 Part II. 
 
 Vol. II.— 22
 
 338 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 Climate — 
 Part II. 
 
 Mar. 12 
 20 
 24 
 26 
 27 
 28 
 
 April 2 
 ,. 4 
 
 18 
 20 
 26 
 
 27 
 
 May 3 
 „ 4 
 ,. 5 
 
 Character of Rain. 
 
 Slight showery . 
 Violeut rainstorm 
 
 Showery 
 
 Violent rainstorm . 
 Slight shower . 
 Light rain . 
 Violent rain and storm 
 
 Light rain 
 Heavy rain 
 Light rain 
 
 Hours per 
 Montli. 
 
 15-00 
 
 2 30 
 
 1 80 
 
 2 
 8 
 7 
 4 
 
 25-00 
 
 
 
 2 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 9-00 
 
 Leopoldville. 
 
 Between 
 
 Leopoldville and 
 
 Kwa Eiver. 
 
 General Meteorological Table. 
 
 Rainfall by 
 Time. 
 
 Number of 
 Days. 
 
 Rainfall 
 by Time, 
 in Hours. 
 
 Rainfall 
 
 In 
 Inches. 
 
 Winds. 
 
 MeanVelocity 
 
 in Miles 
 
 per day of 
 
 24 hours. 
 
 Winds 
 
 from 
 
 Westerly 
 
 direction. 
 
 Annual 
 Tempera- 
 ture, 
 Fahrenheit. 
 Mean 
 Highest. 
 
 Annual 
 Tempera- 
 ture, 
 Fahrenheit. 
 Mean 
 Lowest. 
 
 Mean 
 Annual 
 Variation. 
 
 1880-81 . 80281 45) 
 1881-82. 59 250 35 f 
 
 1 
 
 m 
 
 125 
 
 Per cent 
 
 90 
 
 o 
 
 90 
 
 67 
 
 
 
 25
 
 NAVIGABLE STMETCHES OF THE BIVEB. 339 
 
 CHAPTER XXXYII. 
 
 THE KERNEL OF THE ARGUMENT. 
 
 Extent of the Congo Eiver— Navigable stretches — The maritime region — 
 The mountain region — Elevations, vegetation, and productions — 
 Population — Interior basin of the Upiier Congo : its extent and 
 altitudes— Navigability of the tributaries — Tables of mileage of 
 navigable waters — Area drained by the rivers — Tables of population 
 of Upper Congo section— Oi^inions of Dr. Pogge and Lieut. Weiss- 
 man, Tippu Tib, and Dr. Schweinfiirth — The products of the land — 
 Vegetable and animal richness — Minerals— Extent of the Webb-Lua- 
 laba section — Navigability of the Webb-Lualaba -Characteristics of 
 the Lualaba country — Livingstone's descriptions — The Tanganika 
 territory— Ujiji markets — Table of the actual knowledge of the Congo 
 basin : its area and population — Possibilities of irade — Table of the 
 value of African produce in Liverpool — Prospects of factories — 
 Advantages of a railway -Efforts to civilise Equatorial Africa— Com- 
 parison with other coiuitries — Its future development and greatness. 
 
 The Congo River is over 3000 statute miles in The Kernel 
 
 .of the 
 
 length, measured as follows : From the Atlantic Argument. 
 ocean in a navigable lengtri of 110 miles, as far as 
 the station of Vivi, thence upward to Tsangila, the 
 lower series of the Livingstone Falls, 50 miles ; from 
 Tsangila to Manyanga we have a tolerably navigable 
 stretch of 88 miles; between Manyanga and Le'o- 
 poldville is the upper series of Livingstone Falls, 
 along a length of 85 miles ; from Le'opoldville up-
 
 340 TIJE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel waid to Staiilev Falls we have a navigable length of 
 Argumeut. 1068 miles ; from the lowest fall of this last series 
 to Nyangwe there is a course of 385 miles ; from 
 Nyangwe to Mweru the river course extends 440 
 miles; the length of Lake Mweru is 67 miles ; thence 
 to lake Bangweolo is 220 miles ; Lake Baugweolo, 
 or Bemba, is 1 6 1 miles long ; and thence to its sources 
 in the Chibale' Hills, the Chambezi has a length of 
 360 miles; the full total of these several courses 
 being 3034 miles. 
 
 For convenience of description, as well as in accord- 
 ance with the physical cliaracteristics of the Congo 
 basin, I am compelled to divide the river's course into 
 five sections, thus : The Lower Congo from the sea to 
 Leopoldville, which, includes tlie maritime and a por- 
 tion of the mountain region; tlie Upper Congo, ex- 
 tending from the Livingstone Falls near Leopoldville 
 to the Stanley Falls ; the Webb-Lualaba * region, the 
 Chambezi section, and the basin of the Tanganika. 
 
 In the Lower Congo section the river is navigable 
 for a distance of 110 miles. First by an estuary- 
 like expansion 70 miles long, varying from two to 
 seven miles and a third in breadth, and then by a 
 deep channel in some places over 300 feet deep, and 
 about L^OO yards wide. The present seaport is on the 
 right bank of Banana Creek, at the mouth of the river. 
 What miglit be called a strictly maritime region 
 of the Congo is a very narrow belt lying between 
 
 * So called by Dr. Livingstone in honour of W. F. Webb, Esq., of 
 Newstead Abbey, Nottingham.
 
 THE MOUNTAIN REGION 341 
 
 the sea and the hilly region. In the neighbourhood The Kernel 
 of Boma the mountainous region commences with Argument 
 numberless lines or groups of inferior hills which are 
 yet attached to one another, and rise gradually after 
 an infinite number of undulations to the heiu'ht of 
 2300 feet above the level of the sea. 
 
 In reality the breadth of the mountain region direct 
 east and west is 240 geographical miles ; but the 
 course of the Congo is diagonally through it, in a 
 fissure-like trough running from north-east to south- 
 west, into which ships may penetrate a depth of 50 
 miles from above the estuary of the lower river, while 
 on the eastern side there is a navigable diagonal course 
 of 174 miles leading into the plain-like lands of the 
 Upper Congo. 
 
 From the height of lyumbi ridge, for instance, which 
 is 2276 feet above the sea, by sweeping the horizon 
 round with a theodolite horizontally, the topmost 
 altitude of the boldest hills which appeared in view 
 throughout an area of 2000 square miles did not vary 
 50 feet in height, although there were a countless 
 number of hilltops and grey swells of upland se[)arated 
 by crevasses, gorges, and long sinuous watercourses, 
 proving that the land we surveyed was a disintegrated 
 plateau, denuded in the course of ages of its rich loam 
 by numberless tropic rain seasons. On the larger levels 
 where the loamy soil was still retained, groves of 
 palms and bits of tropical forest were seen, indicating 
 what the land might have been originally. The 
 hollows,, into which some of the soil has been washed
 
 342 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel 01" iiiteiTupted iu its descGiit are easily traceable by 
 
 of the 111 
 
 Argument. tuG dark wavy lines, belts and bars of foliage, which 
 appear more and more shadowy as they recede. If 
 we step near the vei-ge of one of these and look down 
 into the depths of the gorges, we view a lengthy 
 sunken bed of evergreen vegetation so dense and dark 
 that one wonders whether they are penetrable. In 
 brief, almost every tabular hill of any dimension is 
 crested with a palm-grove and forest clump ; the 
 smaller hills and slopes are mere wastes of sere grass ; 
 the hollows, ravines, gorges and valleys teem with a 
 marvellous wealth of vegetable life. 
 
 The productions of the mountain region which are 
 suitable for commerce are very simple. The levels in 
 the vicinity of the palm-groves and villages produce 
 the ground-nuts of commerce ; from the crimson-yellow 
 nuts of the palms {Elais guineensis) is extracted the 
 palm-butter ; in the gorge-forests the india-rubber 
 creeper is found ; some orchilla-weed and gum-copal 
 are also present. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of the sea and the navigable 
 part of the lower liver the country has been fairly 
 well exploited. There are certain well developed lines 
 of native travel, such as the trade routes leading from 
 Stanley Pool to Zombo, to San Salvador and the 
 coast, and to Loango ; but the larger part of the 
 region is but slightly influenced, except in a very 
 indirect manner, by the establishment of trading 
 depots at the Lower Congo and the coast. 
 
 Tiie superficial area of the maritime and mountain
 
 TEACHABLE NATIVES. 343 
 
 region of tlie Congo, which includes all that portion The Kernel 
 of the basin extending between the sea and the lower Argument, 
 end of Stanley Pool, measures 3M,000 square miles. 
 The population, from the effects of the slave-trade 
 and internal wars, cannot be estimated at more than 
 nine souls to the square mile — say, 300,000, governed 
 by at least 300 chiefs. We have proved them to be 
 tractable during six years of most peaceful intercourse, 
 during which we have experienced only two interrup- 
 tions with those immediately under our control. The 
 happy condition of our native transport column is an 
 evidence that the natives of this region are teachable, 
 and amenable to improvement and discipline. The 
 latest reports of 1885 prove that about 1500 porters> 
 are employed monthly. 
 
 The next section we have to consider is the interior 
 basin of the Upper Congo, beginning from the longi- 
 tude of Le'opoldville at the lower end of Stanley Pool, 
 and ending at the longitude of Stanley Falls. 
 
 At Stanley Falls we find the altitude of the river 
 to be 1511 feet above the ocean.* In a curving course 
 of 1068 miles from east to west, and from twenty- 
 eight miles north of the Equator to T 13' N. and 
 down to 4° 17' south of the Equator, across nine 
 degrees of longitude, the slope of the descent has 
 been four inches to the mile. The concave of this 
 almost perfect bow-like course of the Upper Congo is 
 distant from the sources of the tributaries, flowing 
 into it from the south, 913 geographical miles in 
 * Later measurements do not vary 30 feet from the above.
 
 344 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel a dii'ect line. The convex of the bow is distant 
 Argument. IVom the water-parting which supplies its tributaries 
 from the north 330 geographical miles in a direct 
 line. 
 
 Of the southern tributaries flowing into the great 
 river the laigest are the Kwa, Mohindu, Ikelemba, 
 Lulungu, and Lubiianzi. 
 
 By ascending the Kwa we obtain a navigable 
 length of 2 SI miles to the upper extremity of Lake 
 Le'opold 11. The Mbibe' and Ngana branches will 
 add a further course of 220 miles. 
 
 Two hundred and fifty miles above the Kwa the 
 Lukanga is discovered, which leads us into Lake Man- 
 tumba, whose populous shores must not be neglected 
 by the future trader in the Upper Congo. 
 
 From the confluence of the Lukanga with the 
 Congo to the extremity of Lake Mantumba is seventy 
 miles. 
 
 Sixty miles above the Lukanga we arrive at the 
 fine river Mohindu. We only explored it for about 
 eighty miles, but, considering its magnitude and the 
 native reports, we may estimate its navigability to be 
 about 650 miles. 
 
 About thirty miles higher up the Congo is the 
 Ikelemba, which I estimate will furnish 125 miles of 
 river course accessible to trade. It is the commercial 
 reserve of the Bakuti tribe. 
 
 The next river we arrive at is the Lulungu, which 
 will probably be found, with its tributaries, Lulua and 
 Lubi, navigable for over 800 miles. Its banks are
 
 TRIBUTARIES OF THE RIVER. 345 
 
 reported to be more populous than those of the Congo. The Kernel 
 This river is exploited bj the Bauranga and Bakuraira Argument. 
 mostly. 
 
 The next river is the Lubiranzi, which is navi- 
 gable only for twenty-five miles, when it becomes 
 interrupted by rapids ; and, altlioiigh they are very 
 slight, they are sufficient to impede the navigation. 
 
 Beginning at Stanley Pool to survey the naviga- 
 bility of the northern tributaries, the first river is the 
 Lawson-Lufini, which is navigable for thirty miles. 
 
 The next is tlie Mikene-Alima, whicb we can ascend 
 for thirty miles. Above this is the Likuba, navigable 
 for perhaps fifty miles. A few miles higher up tlie 
 mouth of the river, variously called Isanga, or Bunga, 
 which is probably the Likona of Ballay, is readied. 
 From all reports this river may be ascended for 
 120 miles. Nearly opposite the mouth of the Lukanga 
 is the Balui River, a large water entering by a delta. 
 My friend, Miyongo, of Usindi, has led me to believe 
 by his itinerary that it will be navigable for 350 miles. 
 The next river as yet discovered above the Balui is 
 the large river of Ubangi, and above this is the Ngala, 
 flowing from the east into the Congo, half-way between 
 Upoto and Iboko. Some fifty miles of an ascent leads 
 me to expect that, with its affluents, we shall find navi- 
 gation for about 450 miles. Numbers of large towns 
 are on its banks. 
 
 Above the Ngala is the Itirabiri, explored for thirty 
 miles. So far from its magnitude, and from the 
 native reports, I should estimate that we shall find
 
 346 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 the Kernel navigable water of the aggregate length of 250 miles. 
 
 of the . , . •11 
 
 Argument. Tlic NlvulvU, its immediate neighbour, probably may 
 be ascended for sixty miles, while the Biyerre has been 
 proved navigable for ninety-six miles, and the Chofu is 
 known to be impassable after an ascent of twenty-five 
 miles. 
 
 Thus the navigation uninterruptedly available, after 
 leaving the river bay let of Leopoldville, is as follows: — ■ 
 
 English miles. 
 
 From Leopoldville to Stanley Falls direct . . . 1068 
 
 Kwa Eiver, Kwango and Lake Leopold II. . . 500 
 
 The Lukanga and Lake Mantvimba 70 
 
 Left j Mohindu Eiver 650 
 
 bank \ Ikelemba „ 125 
 
 Lulungu aud its tributaries 800 
 
 Lnbiranzi 25 
 
 ^ Nseleh, Wanipoko and Lagoons, left bank . . . 200 
 
 'Lawson-Lufini River 30 
 
 Mikene-Alima „ 30 
 
 Likuba 50 
 
 Isanga-Bunga, or Likona River 120 
 
 Balui 350 
 
 ?!S! \ Ubangi River, and its affluents 350 
 
 Ngala and its affluents 450 
 
 Itimbiri and its tributaries 250 
 
 Nkuku River 60 
 
 Biyerre „ 96 
 
 ^Chofu 25 
 
 Total 5249 miles. 
 
 bank 
 
 From the following table of the length of the rivers, 
 and their principal tributaries, which flow into this 
 section of the Congo bnsin, may be inferred what 
 additional mileage to navigation will be furnished to 
 commerce after the development of geographical know- 
 ledge.
 
 TABLES OF MILEAGE. 
 
 347 
 
 Eight Bank. 
 
 Nume of River. 
 
 Length 
 
 of 
 
 Sub-Tributary. 
 
 Lenpth 
 of I'riiiclpal 
 Tributary. 
 
 Total. 
 
 Lawson-Lufini 
 
 
 150 
 
 
 150 
 
 Mikene-Alima 
 
 .. 
 
 170 
 
 
 170 
 
 Isanga-Likona 
 
 
 260 
 
 
 260 
 
 Balui 
 
 
 510 
 
 \ 
 
 710 
 
 West branch 
 
 200 
 
 
 Ubangi 
 
 
 
 
 500 
 
 Ngala 
 
 West branch 
 
 500 
 
 850 
 
 \ 
 
 1350 
 
 Itimbiri 
 
 
 510 
 
 
 510 
 
 Nkuku 
 
 
 340 
 
 
 340 
 
 Biyerre 
 
 
 765 
 
 
 
 Nepoko 
 
 Bomokandi 
 
 520 
 250 
 
 
 
 1705 
 
 Nanda 
 
 170 
 
 
 
 
 Chofu 
 
 Lindi 
 
 300 
 
 350 
 
 \ 
 
 650 
 
 
 6345 
 
 The Kernel 
 
 01 the 
 Argument. 
 
 Left Bank. 
 
 Kwa and Kwango . 
 Mfini and Lake Leopold II. 
 Eastern branch 
 Mohindu or Kwilu . 
 
 Lulo 
 
 Ikelemba 
 
 Kassai 
 
 Luashimo 
 
 Lufua 
 
 Luabo 
 
 Lubirauzi or Lubilash . 
 
 Lumani 
 
 Lubi 
 
 1380 
 
 280
 
 348 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel From the Lubilasli and the Lumani alone, which 
 Argument. foFin the Liibiranzi, I have a strong conviction that 800 
 miles more of navigable water will be obtained, since 
 the Arabs of Kiburuga informed me that they had 
 crossed it several times, and navigated many days on 
 the waters. They knew only of the rapids twenty- 
 five miles above its confluence with the Congo. 
 
 The superficial area drained by the various rivers 
 above mentioned is 1,090,000 square statute miles, 
 into which we have direct navigable access by steam 
 of 5250 miles. This, by passing one rapid, we may 
 increase to over 6000 miles. The wealth of equatorial 
 Africa lies in this section. It is bisected by the 
 equator, over which the rain-belt discharges its showers 
 during ten months of the year. As we recede from 
 the equatorial line, either north or south, the dry 
 periods are of longer duration. At S. Lat. 4° the 
 long dry season lasts four montlis, from the middle of 
 May to the middle of September; the shorter season 
 lasts six weeks, from the middle of January to the 
 end of February. At S. Lat. 6^, the dry season is 
 about three weeks longer in the year. 
 
 The population of this enormous area of the Upper 
 Congo section may be approximately ascertained by 
 estimating the number of inhabitants at each district 
 according to our observations, on the right bank and 
 on the left of that great curve of the Congo between 
 Stanley Pool and Stanley Falls, and of the Biyerre, 
 the Mohindu, the Kwa, and tlie Lukanga, dividing the 
 entire area by the belts which were explored.
 
 TABLES OF POPULATION. 
 
 349 
 
 Eight Bank. Ascending tho Congo. 
 
 Name of District or Village. 
 
 Gordon Bennett to La wson ) 
 Eiver \ 
 
 Lawson Eiver to Mikenef 
 Eiver j 
 
 Mikene Eiver to opposite^ 
 Lukolela . . . . j 
 
 Thenoe to Bungata . 
 
 Bukoko 
 
 Ukiimira 
 
 Ubengo 
 
 Usiinbi ,...*. 
 
 Iboko •. 
 
 Lusengo 
 
 Ubika 
 
 Thence to Iringi . 
 
 Umangi ...... 
 
 Ukele 
 
 TJpoto and Ngombe . 
 
 Lukii 
 
 Ndobo 
 
 Ibunda ..... 
 
 Estimated 
 Population. 
 
 13,000 
 15,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 50,000 
 
 4,000 
 
 15.000 
 
 3,000 
 
 3,000 
 
 30,000 
 
 3,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 12,000 
 
 5,500 
 
 6,000 
 
 2,000 
 
 8,000 
 
 8,000 
 
 207,500 
 
 Name of District or Village. 
 
 Bumba 
 
 Lower Yambinga 
 Upper „ . . 
 
 Ngingiri 
 
 Villages 
 
 Old Yaluliraa. ... 
 Bungele . . . . . 
 
 Basaka 
 
 Boruu 
 
 Basoko of Mokulu . 
 Upper and Lower Yom- 1 
 
 burri j 
 
 Intermediate Villages . 
 Yangambi .... 
 Yaruche . " . 
 
 Yaryembi 
 
 Yarukombe .... 
 
 Yakusu 
 
 Wenya and Bakumu 
 
 Tlie Keruel 
 
 of the 
 
 Estimated Argument. 
 Population. 
 
 207,500 
 
 10,000 
 8,000 
 8,000 
 5,000 
 3,000 
 300 
 2,000 
 2,000 
 
 6,noo 
 
 15,000 
 
 13,000 
 
 8,000 
 5,000 
 3,000 
 2,000 
 2,000 
 11,000 
 3,000 
 
 313,800 
 
 Left Bank. Ascending the Congo. 
 
 Kintamo 
 
 Kinshassa . . . 
 
 Lema 
 
 Kimbangu 
 
 Mbama and Mikunga 
 Kimjwko and neighbour- 1 
 
 hood j 
 
 To Wampoko Eiver . 
 Wampoko E i ver to Ms wata 
 Mswata and neighbour-! 
 
 hood \ 
 
 Kwamouth .... 
 Kwa Eiver to Bolobo 
 Bolobo to Lukolela . 
 
 Lukolela 
 
 Ngombe 
 
 Nkuku \ 
 
 Butuuu I 
 
 Usindi I 
 
 Irebu j 
 
 Thence to Moliindu Eiver 
 
 Uranga 
 
 Bolombo 
 
 Bukumbi 
 
 Bunga 
 
 Mutembo .... 
 Imeme • . . . . 
 Marunja .... 
 Mpakiwana . 
 ]\Ipa .^ . . . . 
 Old Eubunga. 
 Yakongo . . . . 
 
 Ikassa 
 
 Villages . . . . 
 
 Yalulima .... 
 
 Irubu . . . . . 
 
 Mbungu and Islands 
 Bahamba . . ". . 
 Bandu . . . . 
 
 Bahunga . . . . 
 
 Bungungu 
 
 If^angi ...... 
 
 Yaporo . . 
 Ukanga .... 
 
 Yakonde . . . . 
 
 Yarukombe . 
 Wenya .... 
 
 212 
 
 2 
 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 500 
 500 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,500 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 ,000 
 .500 
 ,000 
 
 319,000
 
 350 
 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 
 The Kernel 
 
 The Biyerre Eiver. Explored length 96 mi 
 
 ot the 
 
 
 
 Argument. 
 
 Umaneli, right bank 
 
 . . . 15,000 
 
 
 Village, left bank 
 
 
 
 1,000 
 
 
 Yakui, left bank . 
 
 
 
 10,000 
 
 
 „ right bank . 
 
 
 
 4,000 
 
 
 Isombo, right bank 
 
 
 
 4,000 
 
 
 Villages . 
 
 
 
 2,000 
 
 
 Yambi . 
 
 
 
 
 
 2,000 
 
 
 Bondeh . 
 
 
 
 
 
 10,000 
 
 
 Irungu . 
 
 
 
 
 
 5,000 
 
 
 Yambua 
 
 
 
 
 
 5,000 
 
 
 Villages 
 
 
 
 
 
 500 
 
 
 Yambumba 
 
 
 
 
 
 20,000 
 
 
 Villages 
 
 
 
 
 
 1,000 
 
 
 Thence to Yambnya 
 
 
 
 15,000 
 
 
 
 94,500 
 
 Kwa Eiver and Lake Leopold II. 54,000 
 To Lake Mantumba .... 25,000 
 
 Arranged in a tabular form, the populations thus 
 estimated would present the following numbers : — 
 
 Along 1068 miles both banks of the Congo . . 632,800 
 
 96 „ „ „ Biyerre . . 94,500 
 
 „ 281 „ „ „ Kwa Eiver and) 
 
 Lake Leopold II. 
 70 „ „ „ LukangaEiverl 25 QOO 
 
 54,000 
 
 and Lake Matumbaj 
 
 1515 
 2 
 
 2030 miles. Total population of both banks = 806 , 300 
 
 If we estimate these 800,300 people as being settled 
 along a belt 2030 miles long with a breadth of ten 
 miles, and suppose the same density to exist tlirough- 
 out the area of the Upper Congo section, our rpio- 
 tient in population will amount to 43,294,000. Of 
 the southern portion of tliis section. Dr. Pogge and
 
 DENSITY OF THE POPULATION. 351 
 
 Lieutenant Weissman, who crossed the upper Lubilash, The Kemei 
 
 of the 
 write : Argument. 
 
 " The country is densely peopled, and some of the villages are miles in 
 lengtii. They arc clean, with commodious houses shaded by oil-palms 
 and bananas, and surrounded by carefully divided fields, in which, quite 
 contrary to the usual African practice, man is seen to till the soil whilst 
 woman attends to household offices. 
 
 " From the Lubilash to the Lumani there stretches almost unin- 
 terruptedly a prairie region of great fertility, the future pasture-grounds 
 of the world. The reddish loam overlying the granite bears luxuriant 
 grass and clumps of trees, and only the banks are densely wooded. 
 
 " The rains fall during eight months of the year, from September to 
 April, but they are not excessive. The temperature varies from G3° Fah. 
 to 81° Fah., but in the dry season it occasionally falls as low as 
 45° Fahrenheit." 
 
 Tippu Tib, the great Arab trader in tlie interior, 
 who has traversed the south-east portion of this section, 
 described to me personally his astouishnient at the den- 
 sity of the population. He told me how lie had passed 
 through several towns which took a couple of hours to 
 traverse, of the beauty of savannah, park, and prairie 
 country he saw, and how the site of the camp left in 
 the morning might be seen from the evening camp 
 after a six hours' march. 
 
 Fi-om the north-east of this section we have the 
 testimony of Dr. Schweinfiirtli in the following words : 
 " From tlie Welle to the residence of the Monbuttu 
 king, Munza, the way leads through a country of 
 marvellous beauty, an almost unbroken line of the 
 primitively simple dwellings extending on either side 
 of the caravan route. 
 
 He estimates the Nyam-Nyam country to be about 
 5400 square miles in extent, populated by 2,000,000.
 
 352 TEE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel wliicb would be eqiial to the extraordinary number of 
 
 of the ., , 
 
 Argument. 3 1 per square mile ! 
 
 The Mobindu and Itimbiri rivers, a certain portion 
 of wbicb we explored, confirm wbat Miyongo of 
 Usindi related respecting the Lulungu, viz., that the 
 further we travelled from the immediate banks of the 
 great river the more numerous became the people. 
 
 The vegetable productions of this section are rich 
 and varied, but until intercourse is facilitated little 
 use will be made of them. This might be readily 
 surmised from the country's bisection by the equa- 
 torial line, the ten months' rains and the humid 
 warmth which nourishes vegetation with extraordinary 
 prolific power. 
 
 The most remarkable among the vegetable growths 
 are the palms, of which there are an immense variety, 
 but the most useful to commerce is the oil-palm {Efais 
 guinemsis). Its nut supplies the dark red palm-oil so 
 well known on the west coast, while its kernel is 
 valuable for oil-cake for cattle. Not a grove, nor an 
 islaiid scarcely, can be found without this beautiful 
 and most useful palm ; in some places, such as the 
 district between the Lower Lumani and Congo, there 
 are entire forests of it. On the Biyerre' the Raplda 
 vinifera usurps its place. The larger number of its 
 islands are wholly forests of this palm. As the oil- 
 palm yields annually from 500 to 1000 nuts, the 
 quantity that miglit he collected from this section is 
 enormous, and would well lepay transportation by 
 rail to the coast.
 
 VEGETABLE WEALTH. 353 
 
 The next most valuable product of the forest, as yet The Kernel 
 untouched in this region, is the gum of the Laudolphia Argument. 
 floridiif or india-rubber plant. There are three kinds 
 of plants producing this article, but that which exudes 
 from Euphorbia is not so elastic in quality, although 
 it may have its uses. On the islands of the Congo, 
 which in the aggregate cover an area of 3000 square 
 miles with SOOO square miles of tiie banks of the main 
 river, I estimate that enough rubber could be collected 
 in one year to pay for a Congo railway. 
 
 Other gums, such as Ihose of the Tracliylobum and 
 Guibourtia species, are useful for varnishes. The fossil 
 transparent white and red gum copal are too well 
 known for their value to need remark. There are 
 large deposits of these known to ,the natives. Among 
 the Wenya I discovered large cakes over 18 inches 
 in diameter of pure white gum copal. At some fishing 
 villages they contrive to make torches of it, but of 
 its other uses they know nothing. 
 
 Vegetable oils are extracted from the Arachis hypogea^ 
 or ground-nut, the oil-berry, castor oil. The first is 
 used for liglits, the second for cooking and gravies, 
 the third is medicinal, as with us. 
 
 Vast extents of forest are veiled with the orchilla 
 moss. Between Iboko and Langa-Langa I saw a 
 strip of forest about 60 miles in length draped with 
 orchilla lying on the woods like a gieen veil. Every 
 village contains its manufactured rolls of redwood 
 powder, and few settlements between the equator and 
 the Kwa could not furnish a few hundredweights at 
 Vol. 11.-23
 
 354 THE CONGO. 
 
 ^^Vtiir^^ the first order. Every trading" canoe floating on the 
 Argument, ^pp^j. Congo possesses among its saleable wares a 
 certain store of this universally-demanded article. 
 
 The vegetation of the Upper Congo is also remark- 
 able for the quantities of fibres it produces for the 
 manufacture of paper, rope, basket-work, fine and 
 coarse matting, and grass-cloths; these are furnished 
 by the Papyrus antiquorum, aloes, Stipa tenaccissima, 
 Calamus indicus, Phoenix spinosa, Raphia vinifera, and 
 Adansonia. 
 
 Just as Lake Mantumba furnishes the largest quan- 
 tity of redwood powder; Iboko palm-fibre matting; 
 Irebu, Calamus fibred sunshades nnd floor mats ; Yalu- 
 lima, double bells ; Ubangi, swords ; so Lukolela is 
 famous for its tobacco coils, with which product they 
 conduct an extensive river trade. Lukolela is also 
 remarkable for its fine timber and its wild coffee. 
 
 In this region, among the many minor items avail- 
 able which commercial intercourse would teach the 
 natives to employ profitably, are monkey, goat, ante- 
 lope, buffalo, lion, and leopard skins ; the gorgeous 
 feathers of the tropic birds, hippopotamus teeth, bees- 
 wax, frankincense, myrrh, tortoise-shell. Cannabis 
 sativa, and lastly ivory, which to-day is considered 
 the most valuable product. It may be presumed that 
 there are about 200,000 elephants in about 15,000 
 herds in the Congo basin, each carrying, let us say, 
 on an average 50 lbs. weight of ivory in his head, 
 which would represent, when collected and sold in 
 Europe, £5,000,000. To some, perhaps, this would
 
 IVORY, RUBBER, AND PALM-OIL. 355 
 
 appear a large estimate, but it is much more moderate The Kerne 
 than a statement made the other day to me by a gentle- Argumeut. 
 man, who solemnly declared he had met a herd of at 
 least 300 elephants in a small river, and that he and 
 his servant had slaughtered so many that tlje river 
 had overflown its banks, and, like another angry Sca- 
 mander, threatened to engulf him and his confederate. 
 
 Mr. Ingham, a missionary, lately shot twenty-five 
 elephants, and obtained money for the ivory ; and 
 Major Yetch, at another locality not far off, shot twenty. 
 As the Congo basin is a large area, and considering 
 tlie tons upon tons drawn for the last eiglity years 
 from the eastern half of Africa, it may be that I have 
 under-estimated the number of elephants still living 
 in the unexploited and virgin western half of the 
 continent. 
 
 In my opinion the ivory, however, stands but fifth 
 in rank among the natural products of the basin. The 
 total value of the ivory supposed to be in existence in 
 this rep:ion to-day would but represent 107,500 tons 
 of palm-oil, or 30,000 tons of india-rubber. If every 
 warrior living on the immediate banks of the Congo 
 and its navigable affluents— which are of the aggregate 
 length of 10,800 miles, within easy reach of the trader 
 above Le'opoldville — were to pick about a third of a 
 pound in rubber each day throughout the year, or to 
 melt two-thirds of a pound weight of palm-oil, and 
 convey it to the trader for sale, £5,000,000 worth of 
 vegetable produce could be obtained without exhaus- 
 tion of the wild forest productions. Or if, in the same
 
 356 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel msiDner, each native warrior picked half a pound of 
 
 of the 
 
 Aigument. gum-copal per day, or collected half a pound per day 
 of orchilla-weed, or made his wife grind out half a 
 pound of camwood or redwood powder, ample proof 
 would be given that any one of the pioductions 
 of the forests alone as articles of commerce have a 
 value greatly superior to ivory. Although ivory is 
 such a precious article, it is by no means inexhaustible, 
 and therefore it cannot be rated very high. By the 
 most trifling labour of the able bodied warriors living 
 on the edge of the bank of the navigable river more 
 of either palm-oil, rubber, gum, orchilla-weed, or cam- 
 wood, could be produced in one year than all the ivory 
 in the Congo basin is worth. 
 
 At the same time, although limited, it is a valuable 
 product, and as such will be an object to commerce. 
 If 200 tusks arrived per week at Stanley Pool, or say 
 £260,000 per annum, it would still require twenty-five 
 years to destroy the elephant in the Congo basin. 
 
 In minerals this section is by no means poor. Iron 
 is abundant. Yalulima, Iboko, Irebu, and Ubangi are 
 famous for their swordsmiths. The Yakusu and Basoko 
 are pre-eminent for their spears. In the museum of 
 the Association at Brussels are spear-blades six feet 
 long and four inches broad, which I collected among 
 those tribes. 
 
 The copper mines near Phillippeville supply a very 
 large portion of Western Africa with their ingots. 
 At the market of Manyanga several hundredweights 
 of these change hands. The south-eastern portion of
 
 MINERALS, SUGAR, RICE, ETC. 357 
 
 the section of the Upper Congo supplies numerous cara- The Kernel 
 
 •11* r 11 T^i 1 of the 
 
 vans with their stores or smelted copper. Plumbago Argument. 
 is also abundant. Gold has been found by the roving 
 Arabs in the beds of streams, and some of tliose met 
 by me returning from their slave raids possessed small 
 glass bottles which contained the treasures of small 
 gold nuggets they had found. 
 
 Every native village on the Upper Congo has its 
 sugar-cane plats and maize. Bananas and plaintains 
 naturally thrive marvellously. In the Kwa valley the 
 natives eat bread of millet flour ; but the cassava or 
 manioc, sweet and bitter kinds, furiiisshes the staple 
 farinaceous food of the people along the main river. 
 The leguminous plant most in favour is the black field 
 bean, which is very like the grain of India ; it is most 
 prolific and hardy, needing but little cultivation. ' 
 
 Among the vegetables are yams, sweet potatoes, 
 brinjalls, cucumbers, melons, pumpkins, tomatoes, &c. 
 Lately the cabbage, the European potato and onion, 
 have been introduced, and thrive most promisingly at 
 Leopoldville and Kinshassa. 
 
 On the eastern edge of this section the Arabs are 
 fast introducing the large-grained upland rice with extra- 
 ordinary success. At Wane Kirungu they harvested in 
 1882, 30,000 bushels of rice, and about 500 bushels 
 of wheat. While the Association has advanced from 
 the west with mangoes, papaws, limes, oranges, pine- 
 apples and guava, the Arabs have made remarkable 
 progress from the east with the same fruits. 
 
 There is a countless number of valuable plants use-
 
 358 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel ful foi their oiis, like tlie " candle-berry " tree, &c. ; 
 
 of the • • 1 • /^ 
 
 Argument, and foi medicinal uses, like the Cashew, the Jatrophe 
 purgans, the Strychnas, the Amomum, &c. There are 
 also to be found the wild giijger, and nutmeg, the 
 Semicarhus anacardiuin, or marking-ink plant ; but 
 these have no value to commerce, and more properly 
 belong to the botanist. Cotton, however, is discovered 
 wild and indigenous everywhere, especially on the 
 sites of deserted settlements, and may in the future be 
 considered something more than a curiosity in a broad 
 and spacious region so well adapted for its growth. 
 
 The next region to be considered is the Webb- 
 Lualaba section, which embraces the greater part of 54 
 square degrees, included between 28° N. lat. and S. lat. 
 12° 30', and between E. long. 25° 20' and E. long 30°. 
 The superficial measurement of the area amounts to 
 246,000 square statute miles. The course of the great 
 river from the dehoucliure of the Chambezi into Lake 
 Bangweolo down to the last Cataract of Stanley Falls 
 is from S.W. to N.W. a distance of 1260 Eni^lish miles. 
 Within this section I include — until further light is 
 thrown upon the subject— Lake Muta-Xzige', not the 
 Lake Albert discovered by Sir Samuel Baker. We have 
 voluminous affluents flowing into the Webb-Lualaba, 
 directly west of the lake discovered by me in 1876. 
 They require drainage area, which, if we exclude Lake 
 Muta-Nzige', we have not sufficient space to supply such 
 large rivers as the Low-wa, the Ulindi, and Lira. From 
 native accounts, which, though extremely unreliable, 
 must, in the absence of definite infoimation, be accepted,
 
 THE WEBB-LUALABA COUNTBY. 359 
 
 this lake may be estimated to cover an area of 5400 The Ken.ei 
 square miles. Lake Bangeolo, according to Livingstone's Argument. 
 rough survey, is of the superficial extent of 10,200 
 square miles. Lake Mweru, according to the same 
 authority, covers an area of 2700 square miles. Lake 
 Kassali and its chain of lakelets cover altogrether an 
 area of 2200 square miles. 
 
 Beyond the Stanley Falls the Webb-Lualaba is navi- 
 gable to within six miles fiom Nyangwe, a length of 
 327 miles. On the right as we ascend, tlie first affluent 
 met is the Le'o])old River, which may be ascended 
 thirty miles ; the next is the Low-wa River, an affluent 
 of the first class, which is formed a few miles up by the 
 junction of two streams. South of the Low-wa about 
 fifteen miles we meet the Ulindi — which we ascended 
 in 1877 a few miles— a river with a breadth of 
 400 yards at the mouth. About ninety miles further 
 south we see the Lira emptying into the Webb-Lualaba, 
 300 yards wide, a deep and clear stream. A little 
 north of S. latitude 5° we come to the Luama, a stream 
 which has a known course of 250 miles. Forty miles 
 further south is the Luigi, of half that length, and 
 thirty miles beyond the Luigi is the Luindi, or Lukuga, 
 which is the outlet of Lake Tanganika. 
 
 Commencing again from the Baswa cataract, the 
 uppermost of the Stanley Falls series, the first on the 
 left bank we meet is the small Black River, and the 
 next from the bend, which I supposed was the Lumami, 
 but which, the Arabs inform me, is the Lufii, a stream 
 similar to the Kasuku, emptying at S. lat. 4^ into the
 
 360 THE CONG 9. 
 
 The Kernel Webb-Lualaba. The next ^reat river flowinfi- into this 
 
 of the . . - . . , 
 
 Argument, secti'on of the river is the Lacustrine Kamolondo. 
 
 The Webb-Lualaba section, out of its aggregate 
 length of main river and larger tributaries, whicli 
 amount to 5000 miles, may be div^ided into two navi- 
 gable sections of 550 miles each ; the first included 
 between the Baswa Falls and Njangwe' Falls, and the 
 second betw^een the Kasongo Falls and the rapids 
 below Mweru Lake. 
 
 This region, mainly along the river banks and in a 
 vast part of its interior, has been subjected to the dete- 
 riorative influence of slave-raiding for the last twenty 
 years. Whatever its population may have been before 
 the desolating system of capturing communities of people 
 by the slaughter of the males, it would not be safe to 
 estimate more than twenty souls to the square mile, by 
 which we have a population of nearly 0,000,000. 
 
 The principal tribes in that region are the Bakumu, 
 Balegga, Banyema, Bakonde', Bagenya, Barua, Bakuss, 
 Bamarungu, and Bahmda. 
 
 On the lower navigable section of the Webb-Lualaba 
 there are four trading communities of Arabs and their 
 slaves established at Kasongo, Nyangwe, Yibondo, and 
 Wane Kirundu. To the commercial trader from the 
 west coast these communities are easily accessible, and 
 would be valuable auxiliaries to the extension of trade 
 over the region ; inasmuch as they have hosts of disci- 
 plined slaves, hundreds of whom have been educated 
 during the last twenty years in the art and practice of 
 trading. The tastes of these people would be supeiior,
 
 A BAB TRADING COMMUNITIES. 361 
 
 naturally, to that of the aborigines. Through their The Kwnei 
 assistance, the cattle ot" Usige, Ruanda, Urundi, and Argument. 
 Ujiji might be brought, in a lew weeks' march, to the 
 Lualaba; also the cattle of Nyangwe, wliich have 
 increased at last accounts to respectable herds, prov- 
 ing that there is nothing fatal to their growth and 
 successful propagation in the valley of the Congo. 
 
 The natural productions of the land are similar to 
 those enumerated as belonging to the Upper Congo 
 section. 
 
 The next section for consideration is that of the 
 Chambezi, having a superficial area of 46,000 square 
 miles. It is drained entirely by the Chambezi and its 
 tributaries, which are the headquarters of the Congo. 
 It lies in a basin elevated about 3800 feet above the sea, 
 walled around by the Losanswe range of mountains 
 on the north, and to the south and east by the Lokinga 
 mountains, or jjlateau wall of Bisa, and the Chibale' 
 range. 
 
 The river is described by Livingstone to be 400 
 yards wide at the place of his crossing, with a clear 
 current of two knots and a depth of three fathoms. 
 One of its affluents, the Lubansenzi, is described as 
 being 300 yards wide, and three fathoms deep. The 
 Lokulu is described as being a still larger affluent. 
 
 A few quotations from Livingstone's own words will 
 give a better idea of the country than can be gathered 
 in any other manner. 
 
 " Immense swampy plains all around except at Kabende." 
 
 "The water in the country is exceedingly large; plains extending
 
 362 THE CONGO. 
 
 'ih<i Kernel farther than the eye can reach have 4 or 5 feet of clear water, and the 
 
 of the adjacent lands for 20 or 30 miles are level." 
 Argument. 
 
 '* We went through papyrus, tall rushes, arums, and grass till tired 
 out. We were lost in stiff grassy prairies from 3 to 4 feet in water for 
 five hours." 
 
 "The country is all so very flat that the rivers down here are of 
 necessity tortuous. Fish and other food abundant, and the people civil 
 and reasonable." 
 
 " One sees interminable grassy prairies with lines of trees occupying 
 quarters of miles in breadth, and these give way to plain again. The 
 plain is flooded annually ; but its vegetation consists of grasses." 
 
 From the above it will be perceived that the basin 
 of the Chainbezi is principally a level country like 
 prairie land sloping very gradually on all sides to the 
 Bangweolo Lake, and during the rainy season inun- 
 dated in its lower depressions, especially in the vicinity 
 of the lake. Midway of its course, however, the country 
 rises in beautiful gradations of undulating pasture 
 land, on which browse the cattle herds of the Babisa, 
 as far as tbe foot of the Mambwe plateau, on the 
 north-east, and the Chibale mountain chain east, the 
 latter being 7,000 feet high. 
 
 The population of this region cannot he estimated 
 at more than iexi to the square mile, which would give 
 460,000 souls to the territory. 
 
 The remaining section of the Congo basin to be 
 described is the Tanganika territory, which covers 
 a superficial area of 03,000 square miles, of which the 
 lake itself being 391 English miles in length, with an 
 average breadth of twenty- four miles, absorbs 0400 
 square miles. 
 
 In some portions of this section the population is 
 dense ; as for instance, in Usige, Urundi, Uhha, Eastern
 
 THE TANGANIKA TERRITORY. 363 
 
 Itawa, Ujiji, and some portions of Umyamwezi ; in ^'"^ Kernel 
 others, again, as in Kawendi, Marungu, Ufipa, it is but Argument, 
 thinly populated. By a moderate estimate, it would 
 be twenty-five to the square mile, making a population 
 for the entire basin of 2,325,000. 
 
 The surface of the lake is at an altitude of 2750 
 feet above the sea. On the north-west it is bounded 
 by mountains rising 2500 feet higher, to the south- 
 west by heights ranging from 1500 to 2000 feet. 
 Along the east the average height of tlie table land is 
 1500 feet above the lake ; on the north is a broad, 
 funnel-shaped valley leading to the lofty uj^lands of 
 Ruanda. 
 
 On one half of this territory cattle are bred ' in 
 numerous herds. The Warundi, Wahha, Wazige', and 
 Wanya-Ruanda, a very superior race of people, could 
 not exist without their cattle. The Wajiji and Wan- 
 yamwezi, who are allied to them, also affect a pastoral 
 life, while they do not neglect the production of 
 cereals, sorghum, millet, maize. At Ujiji, Uvira, and 
 Uzige, are trading communities of Arabs ; on the west 
 side of Tanganika is a London Missionary station. 
 About midway on the east is a station of the African 
 International Association. 
 
 At Ujiji ends the oil-palm, the other productions 
 of the land being similar to the Upper Congo section. 
 On the eastern portion of the basin cereals form the 
 staple food of the inhabitants, while on its western 
 portion the principal food consists of bananas and 
 cassava.
 
 364 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel At the iiiavkets of Uji ji may be seen a number of 
 
 of the 
 
 Argument. \\]q principal products for sale — ivory, maize, sesame, 
 millet, beans, ground nuts, sugar-cane, cbilies, wild 
 fruit, palm-oil, bananas, plaintains, honey, goats, sheep, 
 cattle, fowls, fish, tobacco, fish-nets, copper wristlets, 
 iron wire, bark cloth, bows and arrows, hoes, spears, 
 slaves, &c. 
 
 At U vira, on the north-west side, are great smelting 
 works, and manufactures of iron wire and ware. At 
 Usanzi, a little south, the best tobacco is raised ; in 
 Ukawendi the largest store of honey and wax is to be 
 found ; from Urungu to Mambwe the finest ivory 
 arrives ; from Marungu the largest number of slaves 
 are brought ; Urundi and Uhha supply the largest 
 number of cattle ; while Ujiji supplies goats and 
 sheep. 
 
 The following table will present in a compact form 
 the state of our actual knowledge of the Congo 
 basin : — 
 
 Sections. 
 
 Lower Congo . 
 Upper Cougo 
 
 Luiilaba 
 
 Chambezi, with) 
 Baiigweol'j . I 
 
 Tauganika . 
 
 Area in 
 Square 
 miles. 
 
 Population 
 
 per 
 Square mile. 
 
 33,000 About 9 
 1,090,000 40 
 
 246,000 20 
 
 46,000 
 93,000 
 
 l.oOS.OliO Average 34 
 
 Number of 
 Population, 
 
 297,000 
 
 Length 
 
 of 
 Naviga- 
 tion. 
 
 ■ Area of 
 Name of Lake. ^^^^^ 
 miles 
 
 43,884,0005,250| 
 
 4,920,0001,100 
 
 460,000 400j 
 2,325,000 391 
 
 , ,^( I-eopold II. 
 ^^"\ Mautumba. 
 
 9.50 
 400 
 10,200 
 2,700 
 
 51,880,000 7,251 
 
 Baugweolo . 
 Mweru . 
 Kiissula and 
 
 chain of l2,200 
 
 Lakelets . ) 
 'I'anganika. 9,400 
 Mutu Nzige 5,400 
 
 Kuta Kebir 444 
 31,694 
 
 The subjoined form will illustrate how the Congo
 
 POLITICAL BOUNDARIES. 
 
 365 
 
 basin is at present divided, according to the Berlin The Kernel 
 
 Argument. 
 
 Conference : — 
 
 
 Divisional Areas. 
 
 Population. 
 
 Total area of Congo basin — 
 French territory .... 
 Portuguese territory . 
 
 Unclaimed 
 
 Free State of the Congo . . 
 
 62,400 
 
 30,700 
 
 349,700 
 
 1,065,200 
 
 2,121,600 
 
 276,300 
 
 6,910,000 
 
 42,608,000 
 
 1,508,000 
 
 51,886,000 
 
 I UNCLAIME.D 
 I TERRITORY 
 
 IPORTUGUESC 
 j TERRITORY 
 
 FRENCH 
 TERRITORY 
 
 POLITICAL DIVISIONS OF THE CONGO BAblN. 
 
 The above is a concise description of the basin, 
 about the resources of which I lectured about fifty 
 times in the larger cities of France and England in 
 1878. More minute exploration, and more intimate
 
 366 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel knowledge of the peoples cbiring my six years later 
 Argument, intercourse with them have but intensified my con- 
 victions. 
 
 The clever practical people of Manchester ask me, 
 " And what can the natives give us in excliange for 
 our cloth ? " 
 
 I answer, that the trade of West Africa amounted 
 to £32,000,000 last year, out of which there were 
 probably about £17,000,000 exports, which sailing 
 ships and steamers were able to carry away to Europe 
 from a line of sea coast only 2900 miles long. I 
 have shown, after due care for exactitude obtained 
 after some four hundred astronomical observations, 
 patient exploration, personal investigation, bold essays 
 into as yet wild regions with our small steamers, as- 
 siduous questioning of native navigators, that there are 
 5250 statute miles of uninterrupted navigable water, 
 which may by overcoming a little trouble at one 
 rapid be increased to GOOO miles in the Upper Congo 
 section of the Congo basin. 
 
 The area through which these navigable channels 
 flow is over 1,000,000 square miles superficial extent, 
 and is throughout a fertile region unsurpassed for 
 the variety of its natural productions. It is peopled 
 by about 43,000,000 of native Africans, whom, from 
 our experience among 1,000,000 of them, lead us to 
 believe will prove as amenable to reason and prudent 
 treatment as any natives we have encountered. As 
 we have ascertained that along 2030 miles of river 
 banks there dwell 806,300, we may estimate then that
 
 POSSIBILITIES OF TRADE. 367 
 
 The Kernel 
 
 4,483,000 souls inhabit the two banks of the navigable Argument, 
 mileage of 6000 miles, or 12,000 miles of river shore. 
 
 These 12,000 miles of Congo banks excel in quality 
 the sea shore. In this book, I speak of having 
 found oil-palms and rubber creepers, the dyeing 
 powder of the red-wood and of the orchilla-weed, ot 
 copal deposits, and forests of gum-producing trees 
 at every place I visited ; I speak of eager native 
 traders following us for miles for the smallest piece 
 of cloth. I mention that after travelling many 
 miles to obtain cloth for ivory and red-wood powder, 
 the despairing natives asked, "Well, what is it you 
 do want ? Tell us, and we will get it for you." 
 
 On venturing before that body of practical, sober, 
 intelligent men incorporated into a Manchester 
 Chamber of Commerce, I am confronted with the 
 singular question, " What can the natives give us 
 in exchange for our cloth ? " For a first answer I 
 append the following list of produce from the Congo. 
 
 If sailing ships and steamers can be sent to the 
 Upper Congo basin by the Manchester people, they 
 will obtain three times at least more of West African 
 produce than they obtain from the whole of the West 
 African coast, extending from the Gambia to St. 
 Paul de Loanda, or £50,000,000 worth of produce. 
 Since they cannot send either sailing or steam vessels, 
 they must build two sections of narrow-gauge rail- 
 way respectively fifty-two and ninety-five miles in 
 length, connected by steamboat navigation, or a 
 connected railway 235 miles long, and they will
 
 368 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel obtain as mucli produce as sucli a railway can con- 
 Argument. xQry^ from their trading agents on the Upper Congo, 
 who will collect it from over a million native Africans, 
 who are waiting to be told what further produce is 
 needed beyond ivory, palm-oil, palm kernels, ground- 
 nuts, gum-copal, orchilla-weed, camwood, cola-nuts, 
 gum tr;igacanth, myrrh, frankincense, furs, skins, 
 hides, feathers, copper, india-rubber, fibre of grasses, 
 beeswax, bark-cloth, nutmeg, ginger, castor-oil nuts, &c. 
 
 Memorandum from Hutton & Co., The Temple, Dale Street, 
 Liverpool, 12th March, 1885. 
 
 Value of African Produce in Liverpool. 
 
 £ s. d. 
 
 Palm oil (Congo) 28 5 per ton. 
 
 „ kernels „ 12 5 „ 
 
 Ground-nuts, shelled .... 14 10 „ 
 
 in the shell ... 12 „ 
 
 Copra 16 „ 
 
 India rubber Is. 4'i. to 2 1 per lb. 
 
 Ivory teeth ..... £45 to 60 per cwt. 
 
 „ scrivelloes .... £25 „ 45 
 
 Barwood 3 10 per ton. 
 
 Camwood £21 to 23 „ 
 
 Ebony £6 „ 14 10 „ 
 
 Coffee, small berry 1 10 per cwt. 
 
 „ large „ 1 12 „ 
 
 Cotton 5i per lb. 
 
 „ seed 4 10 per ton. 
 
 Bermiseed 2 5 per 384 lbs. 
 
 Gum copal, red Angola .... 5 15 per cwt. 
 
 „ white Loanda ... 1 15 „ 
 
 „ Sierra Leone ... 6i per lb. 
 
 Guinea grains 19 per cwt. 
 
 Chillies £1 5s. to 2 10 
 
 Ginger 1 16 
 
 Castor seed 9 
 
 Croton „ 5 
 
 Beeswax £5 to 6 10 
 
 Orchilla weed, Angola £1 17s. 6d. „ 2 10
 
 AFRICAN PRODUCE IN LIVERPOOL. 369 
 
 ■ £. s. 
 
 Kola nuts (fresh") 10 
 
 Eattan canes ...... 80 
 
 Porcupine quills 14 
 
 Monkey skins ....... 01 
 
 Calabar beans 
 
 Morse teeth 2 
 
 Adansonia, or Baobab bark or fibre 11 
 
 Oil nuts (Candle-berry) . 1 ^^ . , 7 
 ^ Nominal 
 
 <f. ■ 
 
 The Kernel. 
 
 per cwt. 
 
 of the 
 
 per tor. 
 
 Argument. 
 
 per 1000. 
 
 
 apiece. 
 
 
 4 per lb. 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 per ton. 
 
 
 per cwt. 
 
 
 „ 
 
 
 Egusi seed . . . . j ' 10 
 
 Ground iVit^s, decorticated or shelled, come from the Congo; unshelled 
 from Gambia, Senegal, and the rivers north of Sierra Leone. 
 
 CopraJi, or Copra, comes from different parts of the coast ; it is the sun- 
 dried flesh of the cocoanut. 
 
 India- Bubber. — The best and cleanest, worth 210s. per cwt., comes from 
 the Congo, and is called " thimble." 
 
 ivory.— The dearest is the greenish Gaboon ; large teeth fetch £60 per 
 cwt. and upwards ; Angola large teeth fetch £55 to £60. 
 
 Bermiseed is a seed like the Gingelly seed. 
 
 Guinea Grains are used for adulterating beer. 
 
 Kola Nuts. — Only saleable when fresh ; our sample is dried up ; they 
 come red and white. 
 
 Calabar Beans were worth 2s. 6(7. per lb. a few years ago ; they only 
 fetch 3t7. to 4c?. per lb. now, having been imported too plentifully ; 
 they are used for pharmaceutical purposes. 
 
 Baobab, or Adansonia Fibre, used for paper-making, is imported prin- 
 cipally from the Congo and south-west coast. 
 
 Oil Nuts are little imported ; they are of the size of pigeons' eggs, and. 
 contain some oil. 
 
 Egusi Seed, little known, contains oil ; is imported now and then ; 
 resembles melon seed. 
 
 Ebony. — Imported from Old Calabar, worth £6 to £6 17s. 6(7. per ton; 
 imported from Gaboon, it is worth £7 to £14 10s., according to size of 
 pieces. 
 
 By the very simplicity of the question of tlie 
 Manchester merchants, it is evident they require 
 very simple answers. For the benefit of these as 
 well as for others, I submit the following exceedingly 
 simple method of replying. 
 
 Supposing a few factories were established on the 
 Upper Congo, a fev/ at Isangila, and a fevy at Man- 
 YoL. II.— 24
 
 370 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel yanga, and judging from what is being done on the 
 
 of the 
 
 Argument. Lower Congo, the following produce was shipped :- 
 
 Factories ^\htre Stationed. 
 
 Produce. 
 
 Gross Value. 
 
 Weiglit. 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 Tons. 
 
 Isaiigila .... 
 
 Ground nuts 
 
 370~,000 
 
 25,000 
 
 Manyanga .... 
 
 jj 
 
 
 
 870,000 
 
 25,000 
 
 Isangila and Manyanga 
 
 Palm-oil . 
 
 
 
 310,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 Stanley Pool, &c. . 
 
 Orchilla-wced 
 
 
 
 450,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 J5 • " 
 
 Ivory 
 
 
 
 260,000 
 
 232 
 
 
 Hippo teeth 
 
 
 
 
 11,200 
 
 20 
 
 Upper Congo . . . 
 
 Pubber . 
 Skins 
 
 
 
 
 1,530,000 
 20,000 
 
 10,000 
 1,800 
 
 SJ * • • 
 
 Palm-oil . 
 
 
 
 
 1,240,000 
 
 40,000 
 
 
 Beeswax . 
 
 
 
 
 5,000 
 
 50 
 
 „ ... 
 
 Coi)al-gum 
 
 
 
 
 600,000 
 
 10,000 
 
 Lake Leopold II. and) 
 Mantumba . . . | 
 
 Camwood 
 
 
 
 
 480,000 
 
 20,000 
 
 Kwa Mouth . . . 
 
 Sesanum seed 
 
 
 
 20,800 
 
 4,000 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 5,667,000 
 
 156,102 
 
 The tonnage thus adduced by the above estimate 
 would be equal to 427 J tons per day, which would 
 task the resources of such a railway. At one j^enny 
 per ton per mile freight, tlie gross rev^enue of the 
 railway would be equal to £152,000, and if we esti- 
 mate the revenue derived fiom the freight of goods 
 going into the interior for commerce, State, and 
 missions, we may well conceive that the aggregate for 
 up and down freight would amount to £300,000 per 
 annum, exclusive of passengers. 
 
 From Yivi to Isangila is a distance of fifty-two 
 miles, and such a railway as would be required for 
 this section at the cost of £4000 per mile, would 
 require a capital of £210,000. Four steamers at 
 £5000 each would connect Isangila with Manyanga, 
 which secures 00,000 tons of ground-nuts and palm-
 
 ESTIMATE OF PROBABLE EXPORTS. 371 
 
 oil, the gross value of which is £1,050,000. Of ivory The Kernel 
 and rubber, £300,000 might easily be bought, because Argument. 
 the great depot of trade would then be at the ter- 
 minus — Manyanga — and the service of the 800 carriers 
 now conveying goods between Vivi and Stanley Pool 
 (235 miles), would be utilised in carrying produce 
 between the Pool and Manyanga, ninety-five miles. 
 
 The aggregate revenue of the up and down traffic 
 from commerce, State, and missions, exclusive of 
 passengers, would be about £120,000, for an outlay 
 of £230,000. 
 
 The fuel would be obtained at the Bundi, and 
 Ngoma forests, through which the line of i-ailway 
 would run. It would of course be a surface railway, 
 the extraordinary outlay being only for a few bridges. 
 
 Were the railway to be direct from Vivi to Stanley 
 Pool, the distance being only 235 miles, the expense of 
 construction at £4000 per mile would only amount 
 to £940,000. The gross revenue of £300,000 per 
 annum for such an outlay is surely large ! Once 
 such a railway is constructed a million square miles 
 must contribute to its support. The trade by 5200 
 miles of uninterrupted river navigation flowing 
 through it would chiefly consist of heavy produce in 
 exchange for as bulky goods, cotton goods, beads, 
 muskets, gunpowder, cutlery, china, and iron ware, 
 inasmuch as bullion, cheques, bank-notes are useless 
 in the Congo basin. 
 
 As a mere speculation there is nothing in the 
 whole wide world offering: so remunerative an in-
 
 372 . THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel vestmeiit of Capital as this small railway. Animals 
 Argument, of all kinds, ancl human carriers liave been tested, 
 and have proved to be failures ; the cataracts are 
 impassable ; aerial navigation, unfortunately, cannot 
 compete with the railway as yet, and until that time 
 arrives every article that a mortal man needs must pay 
 toll of freight to this iron road. 
 
 To-day £52,000 are paid per annum for porterage 
 between Stanley Pool and the coast, by native traders, 
 the International Association, and three Missions, 
 which is equal to 5^ per cent, on the £940,000 said to 
 be needed to construct the railway to the Pool. But let 
 the Yivi and Stanley Pool railroad be constructed, and 
 it would require an army of Grenadiers to prevent the 
 traders from moving on to secure the favourite places 
 in the commercial El Dorado of Africa. 
 
 The equatorial regions of Africa have for ages defied 
 Islamism, Christianity, science, and trade. Like the 
 waves beating on a rocky shore, so Islamism has dashed 
 itself repeatedly from the north in its frantic effort to 
 reach the line of the Equator. Christianity has also 
 made ineffectual attempts for the last three centuries 
 to obtain a footing in the same region, but ignorance of 
 the climate caused its retirement. Science has directed 
 strategic assaults upon the closely-besieged area, and 
 has succeeded in retiring with brilhant results; its 
 success, however, has been only temporary, as Trade 
 which ou2:ht to have followed stood dazed with the 
 difficulties which the pioneers encountered. 
 
 Thus the equatorial region, which offers such large
 
 AFBICA RECLAIMABLE. 373 
 
 prospects to the enterprising, lias been left to stew in iha Kernel 
 
 . . f. . . ., . . , of the 
 
 its own juice of fatness. Civilisation, so often baffled, Argument, 
 stands railing at the barbarism and savagery that 
 presents such an impenetrable front to its efforts. It 
 feigns to forget by what process England, Gaui, and 
 Belgas were redeemed from barbarism ; and because 
 at this late hour there still emerges iuto light the great 
 heart of Africa with its countless millions without the 
 slightest veneer of artificialism over man's natural state, 
 it thoughtlessly exclaims that the African savages are 
 irreclaimable. How is it possible that these natives of 
 Africa, whose bonds have been fixed in such an inac- 
 cessible area, could have been otherwise ? No people 
 that we have any record of have ever risen out of the 
 slough of barbarism without external help. Europe has 
 been compounded out of the relics of many nations and 
 tribes— Celts, Huns, Goths, Vandals, Greeks, Romans, 
 Franks, Saxons, Normans, Saracens, Turks, who have 
 become involved with one another a thousand times in 
 commotions and contentions during many centuriesi 
 It is out of the fragments of warring myriads that the 
 present polished nations of Europe have sprung. Had 
 a few of those waves of races flowing and eddying over 
 Northern Africa succeeded in leaping the barrier of the 
 Equator, we should have found the black aboriginal 
 races of Southern Africa very different from the savages 
 we meet to-day. 
 
 But until the latter half of the nineteenth century 
 the 'world was ignorant of what lay beyond the rapids 
 of Isangila, or how slight was the obstacle which lay
 
 874 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel betwecii civilisatioii and the broad natural highway 
 
 of the -,-,.. . r k r • ' 
 
 Argument, which CR'aved the dark virgin regions or Africa into 
 two equal halves, and how Nature had formed a 
 hundred other navigable channels by which access 
 could be gained to this her latest gift to mankind. 
 As a unit of that mankind for which nature reserved 
 it, I rejoice that so large an area of the earth still lies 
 to be developed by the coming races ; I rejoice to 
 find that it is not only high in value, but that it 
 excels all other known lands for the number and rare 
 variety of precious gifts with which nature has 
 endowed it. 
 
 Let us take North America for instance, and the 
 ricliest portion of it, viz., the Mississippi basin, to 
 compare with the Congo basin, previous to its develop- 
 ment by that mixture of races called modern Americans. 
 When De Soto navigated the Father of waters, and the 
 Indians were undisputed masters of the ample river- 
 basin, the spirit of enterprise would have found in the 
 natural productions some furs and timber. 
 
 The Congo basin is, however, much more promising 
 at the same stage of undevelopment. The forests on the 
 banks of the Congo are filled with precious redwood, 
 lignum vitae, mahogany, and fragrant gum-trees. At 
 their base may be found inexhaustible quantities of 
 fossil gum, with which the carriages and furnitures of 
 civilised countries are varnished ; their boles exude 
 myrrh and frankincense ; their foliage is draped with 
 orchilla-weed, useful for dye. The redwood when cut 
 down, chipped and rasped, produces a deep crimson
 
 DEVELOPING THE COUNTBTS RESOURCES. 375 
 powder, givir)g* a valuable colouring ; the creepers The Kernel 
 
 of the 
 
 which hang in festoons from tree to tree are generally Argument, 
 those from which india-rubber is produced (the best 
 of which is worth 2^. per lb.) ; the nuts of the oil palm 
 give forth a butter, a staple article of commerce ; while 
 the fibres of others will make the best cordnge. Among 
 the wild shrubs are frequently found the coffee-plant. 
 In its plains, jungle, and swamp, luxuriate the ele- 
 phants, whose teeth furnish ivory worth from ^s. to II5. 
 per lb. ; its waters teem with numberless herds of In'p- 
 popotamus, whose tusks are also valuable ; furs of the 
 lion, leopard, monkey, otter ; hides of antelope, buffalo, 
 goat, cattle, &c., may also be obtained. But what is of 
 far more value, it possesses over 40,000,000 of mode- 
 rately-industrious and workable people, which the Red . 
 Indians never were. And if we speak of prospective ad- 
 vantages and benefits to be derived from this late gift 
 of Nature, they are not much inferior in number or 
 value to those of the well-developed Mississippi Yalley. 
 The copper of Lake Superior is rivalled by that of 
 the Kwilu-Niadi Yalley, and of Bembe'. Rice, cotton, 
 tobacco, maize, coffee, sugar, and wheat, would thrive 
 equally well on the broad plains of the Congo. This 
 is only known afler the least superficial examination of 
 a limited line which is not much over 50 miles wide. 
 I have heard of gold and silver, but this statement 
 requires further corroboration, and I am not disposed 
 to touch upon what I do not personally knovv-. 
 
 For climate, the Mississippi valley is superior, but a 
 large portion of the Congo basin at present inaccessible
 
 r3T6 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Kernel to the immigrant is blessed with a temperature under 
 Argument, wliicli Europeans may thrive and multiply. There 
 is no portion of it where the European trader may 
 not fix his residence for years, and develop com- 
 merce to his own profit with as little risk as is incurred 
 in India. 
 
 It is specially with a view to rouse the spirit of trade 
 that I dilate upon the advantages possessed by the 
 .Congo basin, and not as a field for the pauper immi- 
 g;rant. There are over 40,000,000 native paupers within 
 the area described, who are poor and degraded already, 
 merely because they are encompassed round about by 
 hostile forces of nature and man, denying them con- 
 tact and intercourse with the elements which might 
 have ameliorated the unhappiness of their condition. 
 ■European pauperism planted amongst them would soon 
 degenerate to the low level of aboriginal degradation. 
 It is the cautious trader who advances, not without 
 the means of retreat ; Ihe enterprising mercantile 
 factor who with one hand receives the raw produce 
 from the native, in exchange for the finished pro- 
 duct of the manufacturer's loom — the European mid- 
 dleman who has his home in Europe but has his heart 
 iu Africa is the man who is wanted. These are they 
 .who can direct and teach the black pauper what to 
 gather of the, multitude of things around him and in 
 his neighbourhood. They are the missionaries of com- 
 merce, adapted for nowhere so well as for the Cong6 
 basin, where are so many idle hands, and such abun- 
 dant opportunities all within a natural '• ring fence."
 
 A GOSPEL OF ENTERPRISE. 377 
 
 Those entirely weak-minded, irresolute, and senile people The Kerne 
 who profess scepticism, and project it before them Argument. 
 always as a shield to hide their own cowardice from 
 general observation, it is not my purpose to attempt 
 to interest in Africa. Of the 325,000,000 of people in 
 civilised Europe there must be some surely to whom 
 the gospel of enterprise preached in this book through 
 the medium of eight languages will present a few 
 items of fact worthy of retention in the memorj', and 
 capable of inspiring a certain amount of action. I am 
 encouraged in this belief by the rapid absorption of 
 several ideas which I have industriously promulgated 
 during the last few years respecting the Dark Conti- 
 nent, Pious missionaries have set forth devotedly to 
 instil into the dull mindless tribes the sacred germs 
 of religion ; but their material difficulties are so great 
 that the progress they have made bears no proportion 
 to the courage and zeal they have exhibited. I now 
 turn to the worldly wise traders, for whose benefit and 
 convenience a railway must be constructed.
 
 378 TEE CONGO. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
 
 THE BERLIN CONFERENCE. 
 
 Strengthening tlie fabric — Precedents — Treaties -with chiefs : their 
 validity— The Anglo- Portuguese Treaty— United States action — 
 Prince Bismarck's views— Position of Great Britain— German and 
 French interests — Freedom of commerce — Berlin Conference — List 
 of Plenipotentiaries — Deliberations and decisions at the Conference — 
 Acquisitions of France and Portugal— Free Trade- A safe juris- 
 diction — The Royal Founder. 
 
 The Berlin ^HE buildino: of the ConoTO State may be likened to 
 
 Conference. ^ o ./ 
 
 the construction of an edifice. We of the expedition 
 may be compared to the labourers clearing the ground, 
 levelling the site, reducing the approaches into order, 
 digging the trenches, laying the foundations, and 
 finally building up the walls to the designed height, 
 ■ while Colonel Stiauch and Captain Thys, of the 
 ■ Bureau of the Association, supplied us with tools and 
 mortar. But the edifice in such a condition if long 
 exposed to the elements cannot stand. The labourers, 
 bricklayers, and stone-masons, must retire, and the 
 owner must apply to the carpenters and slaters to 
 put on the roof, and place tlie doors and windows in 
 their places. When these have finished their parts, 
 the cabinet-makers and upholsterers must be called in
 
 STRENGTHENING THE FABRIC. 379 
 
 to reiKler the bouse habitable. The Expedition of the The Berlin 
 
 Conference. 
 
 Upper Congo and the Bureau had now performed their 
 duties, but the Royal Founder of the State was com- 
 pelled, in order to insure its prosperity and continuity, 
 as the work advanced, to apply to the various Go- 
 vernments of Europe and America for recognition, 
 and for security and peaceful safeguard of its frontiers, 
 to make tieaties with France and Portugal, which 
 would delimit the boundaries, and arrange with all of 
 them for the preservation of neutrality. 
 
 The precedents of the English Puritans of the May- 
 flower in 1G20, of the Xew Hampshire colonists in 
 1639, of the East India Company, Sarawak, Liberia, 
 and Borneo favoured the right of individuals to found 
 and establish states upon the cession of territory with 
 its sovereignty to them by the independent sovereigns, 
 chiefs, rulers, or assemblies, who were the original 
 owners or holders of it. 
 
 The Association were in possession of treaties made 
 with over 450 independent African chiefs, whose rights 
 would be conceded by all to have been indisputable, 
 since they held their lands by undisturbed occupation, 
 by long ages of succession, by real divine right. Of 
 their own free will, without coercion, but for substantial 
 considerations, reserving only a few easy conditions, 
 they hnd transferred their rights of sovereignty and 
 of ownership to the Association. The time had then 
 arrived when a sufficient number of these had been 
 made to connect the several miniature soverei2:nties 
 into one concrete whole, to present itself before the
 
 380 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin "^^^^^^ ^^^ general recognitioii of its right to govern, 
 on erencp. ^^^^ liold these in tLe name of an independent state, 
 lawfully constituted according to the spirit and tenor 
 of international law. 
 
 The Committee on Foreign Relations with the United 
 States, in their Report to the forty-eighth Congress, 
 say : " It can scarcely be denied that the native chiefs 
 have the right to make these treaties. The able and 
 exhaustive statements of Sir Travers Twiss, the 
 eminent English jurist, and of Professor Arntz, the 
 no less distinguished Belgian publicist, leave no doubt 
 upon the question of the legal capacity of the African 
 International Association in view of the law of nations 
 to accept any powers belonging to these native chiefs 
 and governments which they may choose to delegate 
 or cede to them." 
 
 "The practical question to which they give an 
 affirmative answer, for reasons which appear to be 
 indisputable, is this, ' Can independent cliiefs of savage 
 tribes cede to private citizens (persons) the whole or 
 part of their States, with the sovereign rights which 
 pertain to them, conformably to the traditional customs 
 of the country ? ' " 
 
 " The doctrine advanced in this proposition, and so 
 well sustained by these writers, accords with that held 
 by the Government of the United States, that the 
 occupants of a country, at the time of its discovery by 
 other and more powerful nations, have the right to 
 make the treaties for its disposal, and that private 
 persons when associated in such country for self-pro-
 
 VALIDITY OF NATIVE TREATIES. 381 
 
 tection, or self-government, may treat with the inhabi- The Berlin 
 
 Conference. 
 
 tants for any purpose that does not violate tlie laws 
 of nations." 
 
 In consequence of negotiations entered into between 
 the British and Portuguese Governments, beginning 
 November, 1882, and ending February 25, 1884, a 
 treaty was finally concluded, by which the whole of the 
 south-west African coast, between S, latitude 5° 12', 
 and S. latitude 5° 18', was recognised by the British 
 Government as Portuguese territory. This included 
 the Lower Congo, of course, by which the territory 
 of the Association became excluded from the sea. The 
 treaty was signed on the 26th of February, 1884, by 
 Earl Granville on the part of Great Britain, and by 
 Senhor Miguel Martins d'Antas, on behalf of the 
 Government of Portugal. 
 
 Earl Granville, however, declared, previous to the 
 signature of the treaty, that the acceptance by other 
 Powers of the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty was indispcTis- 
 able before it could come into operation, and that there 
 was reason to believe that this acceptance would be 
 refused, which would necessarily delay the ratification. 
 
 Hitherto this territory proposed to be given up to 
 Portugal, so far as Great Britain was concerned, had 
 been regarded as neutral, and the treaty, thus con- 
 cluded, marked a radical change in British policy; for 
 a long series of British ministers had, during over 
 half a century, peremptorily declined to recognise the 
 Portuguese claims. 
 \ On the publication of the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty,
 
 382 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin ^|jg Eui'opean DOwers, especially France and Germany, 
 
 Contereuce. i i. 7 x ^ j ' 
 
 emphatically protested against it, and in England men 
 of all shades of politics combined to denounce it, princi- 
 pally through a fear that the restrictions imposed upon 
 trade in other colonies belonging to Portugal would 
 be so severe as to render commerce impossible in the 
 Congo region. 
 
 The most signal protest to the Anglo-Portuguese 
 Treaty was, however, from the United States of America. 
 One of the faithful coadjutors of the Committee of the 
 International Association, General H. S. Sanford, of 
 Florida, formerly United States Minister to Belgium, 
 in the latter part of 1883, had, by means of the press 
 and his intimate acquaintance with the authorities, 
 succeeded in rousing a genuine pubhc interest in the 
 Congo question. The American people had evidently 
 forgotten that it was through the philanthropy of their 
 fellow citizens that the Free States of Liberia had been 
 founded to the establishment of which they had con- 
 tributed $2.558_,987 of their money to create homes and 
 comforts for the 18,000 free Africans they had de- 
 spatched to settle there. This state, which they might 
 regard with honest pride, had now an area of 14,300 
 square miles, and a revenue of $100,000. They had 
 seemingly forgotten also that it was to the munificence 
 of one of their fellow citizens, and that it was to the 
 discovery and rescue of Dr. Livingstone by another of 
 their fellow-citizens, that popular attention was drawn 
 to Africa, and that they had a half share in the honour 
 of the exploration of the Congo basin which had now
 
 AMERICA AND THE ASSOCIATION. 383 
 
 culminated in attracting the attention of the world. The Berlin 
 Wlien Greneral Sanford reminded his countrymen of 
 these fact?, and lield out to them a prospect in re- 
 building their once important trade in West Africa, it 
 was not difficult then to induce Congress to examine the 
 question soberly, and after a patient investigation of 
 every fixct bearing upon it, the United States Senate, on 
 the 10th of April, 1884, passed a resolution authorising 
 the President to recognise the International African 
 Association as a governing power on the Congo River. 
 
 The recognition of the United States was the birth 
 unto new life of the Association, seriously menaced as 
 its existence was by opposing interests and ambitions ; 
 and the following of this example by the European 
 Powers has affirmed and secured its place among 
 Sovereign States. This act, the result of the well- 
 considered judgment of the American statesmen, was 
 greatly criticised abroad, as was the participation of 
 the United States in the Berlin Conference, to which 
 it directly led up, by the press of America. It was 
 an act well worthy of the Great Republic, not only as 
 taking the lead in publicly recognising and supporting 
 the great work of African civilisation in historj^ and in 
 promoting the extension of commerce, but of significant 
 import, in view of its interest for the future weal of 
 the 7,000,000 people of African descent within its 
 borders. 
 
 The British Chambers of Commerce, notably those 
 of Manchester, Liverpool, and Glasgow, resolutelv 
 opposed the treaty concluded with Portuo-al, but
 
 38-i • THE CONOO. 
 
 The Berlin withal the strenuous opposition maintained to it in 
 commercial circles and in the House of Commons, had 
 not the Roval Founder of the Association obtained the 
 assistance of the German Chancellor and the sympathies 
 of the French Government, it is doubtful whether any- 
 thing done in England would have succeeded in 
 averting the effectual seal being put upon enterprise 
 in the Congo basin by this treaty. Much more liberal 
 terms would be needed to tempt commerce within its 
 borders than any provisions that the treaty contained. 
 Some such arrangement as that made by the Congress 
 of Vienna in 1815, whereby liberty of navigation was 
 proclaimed to the great rivers of Europe, such as the 
 Rhine and the Danube, would be necessary ; and now 
 that an Association had absorbed unto itself hundreds 
 of petty sovereignties along a large portion of it, and 
 France had proceeded in the same manner to absorb 
 other portions of the Congo banks, while Portugal 
 pressed her claims to territories washed by the great 
 African river, it was absolutely and imperatively in- 
 cumbent on the Powers to step forward and impose 
 such obligations on the riverain Powers as would not 
 imperil or strangle the commerce already thriving on 
 the banks of the Lower Congo. 
 
 On the 7th of June, 1884, Prince Bismarck set 
 forth his objections to the Anglo-Portuguese Treaty to 
 Count Munster as follows : — 
 
 " I do not think the Treaty has any chance of being universally recog- 
 nised, even with the modifications which are therein proposed by Her 
 Majesty's Government. 
 
 "We are not prepared to admit the previous rights of any of the
 
 BRITISH EXPLORERS. 385 
 
 Powers who are interested in tlie Congo trade as a basis for the ncgotia- The Berlin 
 tions. Trade and commerce have hitherto been free to all alike, without Couferenre. 
 restriction. We cannot take part in any scheme for handing over the 
 administration, or even the direction of their arrangement, to Portuguese 
 officials. 
 
 " In the interests of German commerce, therefore, I cannot consent that 
 a coast of such importance, which has hitherto been free land, should be 
 subjected to the Portuguese colonial system." 
 
 Hitherto Britain had been the most enterprising 
 nation in African fields of exploration and commerce. 
 In the annals of exploration of the Dark Continent, we 
 look in vain among other nationalities for a name such 
 as Livingstone's. He stands pre-eminent above all ; he 
 unites in himself all the best qualities of other ex- 
 plorers, the methodical perseverance of Barth, Moffat's 
 philo- Africanism, Rohlf's enterprising spirit, Duvey- 
 rier's fondness for geographical minutiae. Burton's 
 literal accuracy, Speke's charming simplicity and 
 seductive honhommie with the aborigines ; he is a rare 
 piece of human mosaic, a real glory to England. But 
 to English Burton, Germany can show Barth, and 
 France Duveyrier ; and to Speke the first can show 
 Rohlf, and the latter Bene Caillie ; to Cameron 
 Germany can oppose Nachtigal ; and to Baker, Schwein- 
 furth, though two greater opposites can scarcely be 
 imagined ; and France can also boast of De Compeigne 
 and De Brazza. But Britain, after producing Bruce, 
 Park, Clapperton, Denham, the Landers, excelled her- 
 self even when she produced the strong and perse- 
 verant Scotchman, Livingstone. 
 
 In West African trade also Great Britain stood 
 almost alone at one time. Macgregor Laird exploited 
 Vol. it.— 25
 
 386 THE CONGO, 
 
 TheBeriiathe Niger in 1841; her traders were busy on the 
 Gambia, on the Roquelle, on the Gold Coast, at Lagos 
 in the oil rivers, at Gaboon and Kabinda, and the 
 Glasgow and Liverpool and Bristol merchants were 
 represented by a host of agents, wlio had planted 
 themselves at various points along 2,900 miles of 
 coast, but of late years, through the ai3athy of English 
 merchants, Germany by her enterprise had also estab- 
 lished herself at various places, and great houses like 
 that of Woerman's were looming upward, overtopping 
 all individual English firms, which could number their 
 factories by dozens and their agents by scores. Ham- 
 burg and Bremen were outri vailing Liverpool and 
 Glasgow. Thus Germany had solid and substantial 
 reasons for watching and jealously guarding her mer- 
 cantile interests ; and France, aided by the energy and 
 talents of Monsieur de Brazza, in territories beyond 
 and contiguous to the Gaboon colony, naturally wished 
 to establish herself, beyond dispute, in the districts 
 acquired by the devotion and intelligence of her 
 agents. 
 
 The political talents of the German Chancellor, 
 Prince Bismarck, are not of the ordinary standard. 
 Those who profess to follow the beaten paths and 
 prescribed rules of diplomatic art, mere obsolete 
 principles of Machiavclli, are confused by the con- 
 sistent, direct, coherent sincerity which dictates his 
 policy, and lose themselves in profound speculations 
 as to what his drift is, when in plain literal characters 
 his purpose lies written in legible letters and in^
 
 PRINCE BISMARCK. 3»7 
 
 telligible language. German savants had explored The Deriin 
 
 Conference. 
 
 territories unclaimed by any Power ; German merchants 
 were honestly established at certain places on the West 
 African coast ; out of the most intelligent and enter- 
 prising of the sons of Germany twenty-four Geo- 
 graphical Societies had been formed, and a dozen 
 Colonial Associations, besides African societies, were 
 being constituted in Germany. Already Bastian, 
 Gussfeldt, Peschuel Loesche, Buchner, V^on Mechow, 
 Pogge, Weissman, had been equipped by a German 
 African Society, and it was preparing to despatch 
 more. These facts were published in their reviews 
 and magazines. There was no secrecy in the move- 
 ment ; all was honest and above-board, and all the 
 world was told of the modest effort Germany was 
 making to expand its colonial strength. 
 
 Like the great statesman he is, Prince Bismarck felt 
 this strong throb of modern German life. He applied 
 his stethescope to listen to the murmuring and latent 
 passion of his era, and having discovered it, be bent his 
 genius to create a sound S3'stem of colonial policy, not 
 rashly, though to those without ihe, orbit of his genius 
 it might be supposed to be eccentric. He is zealous 
 in all he undertakes, he seeks advice from those 
 competent to give it. This is his eccentricity ; it is 
 unusual for statesmen to convene a number of experts 
 to consider the best course to pursue. Tlie Woermans 
 and the Meyers of Hamburg and Bremen were sum- 
 moned to Yarsin to see the Prince. Durino- the visit 
 they paid him, Prince Bismarck, through his receptive
 
 388 TEE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin gifts, imbibed such a vast amount of local knowledf^e 
 
 Confoience. ^ 
 
 respecting the little known territories of West Africa, 
 
 that I venture to say fev7 Foreign Ministers ever 
 
 2)ossessed. 
 
 On September 13th Prince Bismarck writes to 
 
 Baron de Courcel, French Ambassador at Berlin — 
 
 " Like France, the German Government will ohserve a friendly attitude 
 towards the Belgian enterprises on the banks of the Congo, owing to the 
 desire entertained by the two Governments to secure to their countrymen 
 freedom of trade throughout the whole of the future Congo States, and in 
 the districts which France holds on this river, and which she proposes 
 to assimilate to the liberal system which that State is expected to establish. 
 These advantages will continue to be enjoyed by German subjects, and 
 will be guaranteed to them in the event of France being called upon to 
 exercise the right of preference accorded by the King of the Belgians in 
 the contingency of the acquisitions made by the Congo Company being 
 alienated." 
 
 It should be observed here that the International 
 Association, after the publication of the Anglo-Portu- 
 guese Treaty, and perceiving no other way to escape the 
 consequences of it, had signed an agreement, to which 
 was attached a m.ap, with France, fifty-seven days later, 
 or on April 23rd, the text of which is as follows : — 
 
 " The International Association of the Congo, in the name of the Free 
 Stations and territories which it has established on the Congo and in the 
 valley of the Niadi-Kwilu, formally declares that it will not cede them 
 to any Power under reserve of the special Conventions which might be 
 concluded between France and the Association with a view to settling 
 the limits and conditions of their respective action. But the Association, 
 wisliing to aff(«-d a new ])roof of its friendly feeling towards France, 
 pledges itself to give her the right of preference, if through any unforeseen 
 circumstances tho Association were one day led to realise its possessions. 
 
 (Signed) " Strauch." 
 
 Mons. Jules Ferry, President of the Council, re- 
 plied in terms which formally pledged France to 
 respect the territories of the Association.
 
 FRANCE AND GERMANY. 389 
 
 Prince Bismarck continues — 
 
 " The exchange of views -which I have had the honour of holding witli 
 your Excellency proves that the two Governments are equally desirous of 
 applying to the navigation of the Congo and the Niger the principles 
 adojited by the Congress of Vienna, with a view to assuring the freedom 
 of navigation of several international rivers, and subsequently applied to 
 the Danube. In order to secure at the same time the regular development 
 of European trade in Africa, it would be useful to arrive at an agreement 
 as to the formalities to be observed with a view to new occupations on 
 the coasts of Africa being regarded as effective. I beg that your Excellency 
 will have the goodness to propose to the Government of the Republic that 
 it should recognise the identity of our views on these points by means of 
 an exchange of notes, and should invite the other Cabinets interested in 
 African commerce to pronounce themselves in a Conference to be convoked 
 to this intent upon the stipulations agreed upon between the two Powers. 
 
 (Signed) "Von Bismarck." 
 
 The French Ambsssador, Baron de Courcel, in 
 replying to this communication, states that he has 
 not failed to convey to his Government Prince Bis- 
 marck's note, which in substance was similar to the 
 views exchanged between them at Yarzin. Also that 
 the French Republic is completely in accord with the 
 Imperial Government of Germany about the desir- 
 ability of arriving at a mutual understanding respect- 
 ing the delimitation of territory over the West Coast 
 of Africa, especially where the German possessions 
 border on those of the French. He likewise acknow- 
 ledges that the friendly accord between the two Govern- 
 ments is connected with principles of the highest 
 importance to trade in Africa, of which the chief 
 are those which must govern the freedom of trade in 
 the basin of the Congo. He also assents to the idea 
 that whereas the African International Association, 
 which has established a number of stations on the 
 
 Th.T Bi'iliii 
 Couferenco.
 
 390 TEE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin Cougo, declares itself ready to admit that principle 
 
 Conference. n i • i • i t-< i i i 
 
 over all the territory under its control, Francs should 
 grant freedom of trade over tliat which she now owns, 
 or may hereafter own on the Congo, and that France 
 declares her willingness to permit this freedom to 
 continue in the event of her reaping the benefit of the 
 arrangements touched upon by the Prince, which 
 assures to France the right of preference in case of 
 the alienation of the territories acquired by the Asso- 
 ciation. He defines freedom of commerce to mean free 
 access to all flags, and the interdiction of all monopoly 
 or diS'erential duties ; but not excluding the establish- 
 ment of taxes to compensate for useful expenditure 
 incurred in the interests of commerce. AVhile freely 
 extending these beneficial concessions to commercial 
 enterprise in the Congo basin, Baron de Courcel 
 states that France is not willing that Gaboon, Guinea, 
 or Senegal should share them ; but solely the Congo 
 and the Niger. With other views expressed by 
 Prince Bismarck, the French Government we are told, 
 holds identical ideas, and Mons. Jules Ferry acquiesces 
 witli the Prince in sending an invitation to the other 
 Cabinets interested in African trade, for the purpose 
 of convening a Conference which shall pronounce 
 upon the respective stipulations mutually agreed upon 
 by France and Germany. 
 
 On the 2nd of October Baron de Courcel replies 
 to a letter addressed to him by Prince Bismarck : — 
 
 " My Prince, — I have lost no time in informing my Government of the 
 views expressed in the communication of your Serene Highness, dated
 
 PLENIPOTENTIARIES AT BERLIN. 
 
 391 
 
 September 30th, respecting the meeting at Berlin of a Conference of the xhe Berlin 
 representatives of the different nations interested in the trade of West Conference. 
 Africa. The Government of the Eepublic instructs me to inform you of 
 its acquiescence in your suggestions regarding the date of the opening 
 of the Conference, and tlie procedure to be followed for the invitation. 
 M. Jules Ferry thinks, like your most Serene Highness, that besides 
 France and Germany, the Powers which ought first of all to take part in 
 this Conference are Great Britain, the Netherlands, Spain, Portugal, 
 Belgium, and the United States of North America. He also concurs in 
 your opinion, that in order to assure the general assent to the resolutions 
 of the Conference, it would be advisable to invite later on all the great 
 Powers and the Scandinavian States to associate themselves with the 
 deliberations. 
 
 (Signed) "Alphonse de Couucel." 
 
 Accordingly, invitations were issued to the under- 
 mentioned Grovernraents, and on the lath of November 
 there were gathered at Berlin the following plenipo- 
 tentiaries, who were empowered to take part in the 
 Conferences. 
 
 For the German Empire and 
 the Kingdom of Prussia . 
 
 For the Austrian Empire, 
 Kingdom of Bohemia, and 
 of Hungary .... 
 
 For the Kingdom of Belgium 
 
 For the Kingdom of Denmark 
 For the Kingdom of Spain . 
 
 Otho, Prince de Bismarck, President of the 
 
 Council of Ministers, and Chancellor of 
 
 the German Empire. 
 Paul, Count Hatzfeldt, ^linister of State 
 
 and Secretary for Foreign Affairs. 
 Dr. Auguste Busch, Under Secretary of 
 
 State for Foreign Affairs. 
 Herr Henri de Kusserow, Counsellor in 
 
 the Department of Foreign Affairs. 
 Emeric, Count Szechenyi de Sarvuri Felso- 
 
 Vidck, Ambassador Extraordinary and 
 
 Plenipotentiary. 
 Gabriel, Count von der Straten Ponthos, 
 
 Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 
 
 PleniiDotentiary. 
 August, Baron Lambermont, Minister of 
 
 State, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 
 
 Plenipotentiary. 
 Emile de Vind, Envoy Extraordinary and 
 
 Minister Plenipotentiary. 
 Don Francisco Merry y Colom, Count de 
 
 Benomar, Envoy Extraordinary and 
 
 Minister Plenipotentiary.
 
 392 
 
 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin For the Republic of the United 
 Conference. States of North America . 
 
 For the Republic of Franco 
 
 John A. Kasson, Esq., Envoy Extraordi- 
 nary and Minister Plenipotentiary. 
 
 Henry S.Sanford, Esq., formerly American 
 Minister to Belgium. 
 
 Alphonse Baron de Courcel, Ambassador 
 Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary 
 
 Sir Edward Baldwin Malet, Ambassador 
 Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary. 
 
 For the United Kingdom of 
 Great Britain and Ireland 
 and the Empire of India. 
 For the Kingdom of Italy . Edward, Count de Launay, Ambassador 
 
 Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary. 
 
 For the Kingdom of the Phillippe Frederic, Jonkhecr Van der 
 
 Netherlands and the Duchy Iloeven, Envoy Extraordinary and 
 
 of Luxembourg. . . . Minister Plenipotentiary. 
 
 For the Kingdom of Portugal Senhur da Serra Gomes, Marquis de Pena- 
 
 and the Algarves. . . . fiel, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 
 
 Pleuii^otentiary. 
 Senhur Antoine Serpa de Pimentel, Coun- 
 cillor of State. 
 For the Empire of all the Pierre, Count Kapnist, Privy Counsellor, 
 
 Eussias Envoy Extraordinary, and Minister 
 
 Plenipotentiary to the King of the 
 Netherlands. 
 For the Kingdom of Sweden Gillis, Baron Bildt, Lieut.-General, Envoy 
 and Norway Extraordinary and Minister Plenipo- 
 tentiary. 
 For the Empire of the Otto- Mchemed SaVd Pacha, Vizier and High 
 
 mans Dignitary, Ambassador Extraordinary 
 
 and Plenipotentiary. 
 
 In the suite and attached to these high and puissant 
 functionaries were the various delegates and experts 
 who were either appointed by their respective Govern- 
 ments or by the Plenipotentiaries themselves. 
 
 With the German Representatives 
 „ French Ambassador . 
 
 British Ambassador 
 
 Italian Ambassador 
 
 Herr Adolphe Woerman. 
 
 Mons. Dubuisson. 
 
 Mons. Engelhardt. 
 
 Dr. Ballay. 
 
 Hon. Robert H. Meade. 
 
 Henry Percy Anderson, Esq. 
 
 Mr. Hemming. 
 
 Mr. W. E. Crowe. 
 
 Count Christoforo Negri. 
 
 Senator Montegazza.
 
 THE MAIN OBJECTS OF THE CONFERENCE. 393 
 
 With the Spanish Ambassador . . Col. Cocllo y Dusada, PrcRidcnt of The Berlin 
 
 the Spanish African So;-iciy. Conference. 
 
 „ Dutch Ambassador . . A. D. Bloeme, Esq., of Banana Point, 
 
 Congo Eiver. 
 „ Portuguese Kepresenta- Senhur Luciano Cordeiro. 
 
 fives Capt. Carlos du Bocage. 
 
 „ Belgian Ambassador . . Col. Strauch, 
 
 Mons. Emile Banning. 
 „ American Plenipotentairies The Author, as Technical Adviser. 
 
 The secretaries of the Conference were Mons. Raindre, 
 of the French Embassy, Count Wm. Bismarck, and 
 Yice-Consul Dr. Schmidt. 
 
 The sittings were held in the German Chancellor's 
 palace on Wilhelmstrasse, in the same room where tlie 
 Berlin Congress sat in 1878. 
 
 When the members of the Conference had assembled, 
 the afternoon of the 15th of November, Prince Bismarck 
 rose to formally open it, and in his short address he 
 declared that the Conference had met for the solution 
 of three main objects, namely : — ■ 
 
 1. The free navigation, with freedom of trade, on 
 the River Congo. 
 
 2. The free navigation of the River Niger. 
 
 3. The formalities to be observed for valid annexation 
 of territory in future on the African continent. 
 
 Sir Edward Malet replied, that while he echoed the 
 philanthropic sentiments of the Prince, and accepted 
 the above three points for discussion, his Government 
 was willing to see the principles of Free Trade ap- 
 plied to the Niger, but stipulated that the surveillance 
 over the execution of those principles should not be 
 conceded to any international body, as that was the 
 duty and privilege of Great Britai)i, being the chief
 
 3U4 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin if Hot the sole proprietary Power on the Lower 
 
 Couference. 
 
 Nio'er. 
 
 In order to make a consecutive narrative of the 
 principal events connected with the sittings, I append 
 a brief diary of the events 'whicli led to the final 
 act.* 
 
 November iOth. — Portugal declares its acceptance of 
 the principle of freedom of commerce. 
 
 Count de Launay declared his adhesion to the prin- 
 ciples of Free Trade and navigation. 
 
 The American Minister makes a speech in harmony 
 with the princij)les for which the Conference has been 
 Invoked ; is complimentary to the author, and informs 
 his colleagues that the author has been appointed 
 technical delegate for the United Slates. 
 
 A Commission is to be appointed to consider the 
 boundaries and the extent of the territories In Western 
 Africa in which Free Trade is to be established. 
 
 The plenipotentiaries are entertained at dinner by 
 Count Hatzfeldt, Secretary of Foreign Affairs. 
 
 November 20th. — A Commission composed of the 
 plenipotentiaries and delegates considered the definition 
 of the Congo basin. There was a curious reluctance 
 to speak, as though there was some grand scheme of 
 State policy involved. Finally Mons. Banning briefly 
 stated that the Congo basin signified the area of land 
 drained by the river. Colonel Strauch acquiesced in 
 Mons. Bannlng's remarks. I being next on the roll 
 of delegates was asked, and replied at length (see 
 
 * See Appendix,
 
 DEFINITION OF THE CONGO BASIN. 395 
 
 Appendix), arguing for a broad commercial delta The Berlin 
 
 Conference. 
 
 380 miles wide to a free commercial basin, that is, 
 from the moutli of the Loge river to 2° 30' S. Lat, 
 and also suggested, quite unexpectedly to the members, 
 that it would be wise to extend the same liberty for 
 trade across Africa to within one degree from the sea- 
 coast from N. Lat. 5° to and inclusive of the lower 
 Zambezi. Mr. Anderson, of the English Foreign Office, 
 endorsed mv remarks about the breadth of the free 
 outlet to the commercial basin of the Congo. Mons. 
 de Bloeme, on the part of Holland, also warmly sup- 
 ported the proposition. The Portuguese delegates pro- 
 posed to narrow the outlet solely to the river-mouth. 
 Dr. Ballay argued that the outlet to the commercial 
 basin should be restricted to the affluents flowing to 
 the Congo below Stanley Pool, which near the mouth 
 would be only twenty miles wide. 
 
 November 24th. — The Commission finally accepts 
 the definition of the free littoral or debouchure of 
 the commercial basin as proposed by Mr. Anderson, 
 M. de Bloeme and myself, and agreed that the same 
 freedom of commerce should be extended east as 
 far as the Indian Ocean, with due reserve to the 
 rights of suzerainty now existing along the Oriental 
 coast. 
 
 Mons. de Bloeme delivered an interesting speech 
 respecting the Dutch commerce on the Congo, and 
 Herr Woerman gave evidence as to the character and 
 extent of the trade on the West Coast. 
 
 This evening I dined w^ith Prince Bismarck. I am
 
 396 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin glad to liavG Seen the grand man, but I am still more 
 
 Conference. 
 
 rejoiced to discover that the grandeur to which he has 
 attained is due solely to his honesty, resolution, and 
 clear-eyed common-sense, unalloyed by any one grain 
 of cant or false sentiment. 
 
 November 30th. — An unanimous decision was arrived 
 
 at in favour of freedom of trade throughout the newly- 
 
 , defined Congo basin (see Appendix for the Declaration). 
 
 I made a speech about the religious and missionary 
 enterprise in the Congo basin. 
 
 December 3rd. — The special sub-committee continued 
 Its deliberations for the Actes de Navigation. The day 
 before Sir E. Malet, on the part of England, declared 
 that " Great Britain engages herself to protect mer- 
 chants and foreigners of all nations engaging In com- 
 merce In those portions of the course of the Niger 
 which are or will be under its sovereignty or Its 
 protectorate equally as if they were Its own subjects, 
 provided always that these merchants conform to the 
 reorulations which are or will be established in terms 
 of that which precedes." 
 
 Mr. Wm. H. Tisdel, appointed by the United States 
 Government, has just set out for the Congo to report 
 upon the advantages to American trade. 
 
 December 13th. — The Grand Committee of the Con- 
 ference approved the Congo and Niger Acts of Navi- 
 gation. 
 
 December 17th. — On the 8th of November Germany 
 recognised the International Association, and to-day 
 Sir Edward Malet, on behalf of Great Britain, followed
 
 THE ACTES DE NAVIGATION 397 
 
 her example on conditions nearly similar to those ofjTh: Berii:; 
 
 /-i n^^ • /• i T • • r> • Conference. 
 
 Germany. The question or dehmitation of course is 
 not touched upon until some agreement has been 
 arrived at with France and Portugal. 
 
 December l8th. — There was a full meeting of the 
 plenipotentiaries to-day, at which the Actes de Navi- 
 gation for both Niger and Congo were approved. 
 
 December 19th. — Italy signed the Convention with 
 Colonel Strauch to-day, recognising the International 
 Association. 
 
 A scheme was brought out at the Conference for the 
 enforcement of temperance on the Congo by Italy, but 
 it was strenuously opposed by Germany and Holland. 
 Baron de Courcel produced a coimter-motion, which is 
 more likely to be accepted. 
 
 December 22nd. — The Commission discussed and 
 approved the " motion " on liquor traffic. 
 
 December 23rd. — The Conference accepted the ap- 
 proval of the Commission regarding the liquor traffic, 
 but added that measures taken to prevent its abuse 
 shall not be taken as a breach of the Free Trade 
 principles already accepted ; after which an adjourn- 
 ment until the 5th of January was agreed to. 
 
 December 24th. — Austria recognised the flag of the 
 International Association as that of a friendly State in 
 terms similar to those of Germany, with reserving 
 clauses respecting Consular jurisdiction like those of 
 England and Italy. 
 
 The diplomatic agents of the Association are at 
 work in Paris about a treatv with France.
 
 398 THE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin Januaiy 5th, 1885. — The Conference resumed its 
 
 Conference, . . . , . 
 
 labours to-day, and discussed the propositions relating 
 to the slave trade tendered by Sir E. B. Malet and 
 Mr. John A. Kasson. As recast, these embody both 
 proposals, arid will form a separate declaration. 
 
 January 6th.- — The plenipotentiaries received at a 
 Conference held this day the draft Declaration relating 
 to the formalities to be observed when taking possession 
 of new territory on the coasts of Africa. It enjoins 
 the necessity of a simultaneous notitication to all 
 the other signatory Powers to obtain recognition, 
 and to make possession valid, and recognises the 
 obligations of such annexing powers to establish and 
 Tnaintain a jurisdiction sufficient to ensure the observ- 
 ance of peace as well as respect for acquired rights, 
 and as the case may be for the conditions under 
 which freedom of trade and of transit shall have been 
 guaranteed. 
 
 January 7th. — The Declaration prohibiting slave 
 trade in the Congo basin was adopted by the Con- 
 ference. It says : " Each of the Powers exercising 
 sovereign rights or influence in the regions forming 
 the conventionally established Congo basin declare that 
 these regions shall not be used as markets or routes of 
 transit for the trade in slaves, no matter of what race. 
 Each of these Powers binds itself to use all the means 
 at its disposal to put an end to this trade, and to punish 
 those engaged in it." 
 
 A large assemblage from the Rhine Province and 
 Westphalia honoured me with a banquet to-day, and
 
 LECTURES AND BANQUETS. 31)9 
 
 listened to my remarks about the advantages offered The Berlin 
 
 . I- ^ r^ Conference. 
 
 to commerce in the basm ot the Uongo. 
 
 January 8tb. — I lectured to a remarkably enthusiastic 
 audience at Frankfort this evening, on Central Africa, 
 and the benefits likely to accrue to Europe, from the 
 labours of the Conference, A diploma from the oldest 
 established Geographical Society in Germany, and 
 another from Prince Hohenlohe Langenburg. on behalf 
 of the German Colonial Association, were bestowed 
 on me. 
 
 January 9th. — I lectured at Wiesbaden to-day, and 
 was honoured with a banquet. 
 
 The plenipotentiaries discuss the Declaration respect- 
 ing formalities, and several days' delay are caused 
 principally through Sir E. Malet not having received 
 definite instructions from the British Foreign OflSce 
 upon the points mentioned. 
 
 January 19th. — Prince Bismarck entertained the 
 plenipotentiaries and delegates at a banquet given at 
 his palace. An interesting feature at these banquets 
 are the elaborate menus in fashion illustrating the 
 Congo" and African scenery, 
 
 January 28th. — After a long delay the third point, 
 which referred to the foundation required on taking 
 possession of a portion of the African coast, in the 
 programme of the West African Conference, was dis- 
 posed of to-day, 
 
 January 31st. — The official report on the regulations 
 to be observed in regard to future annexations was 
 approved at a plenary sitting of the Conference.
 
 400 TEE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin Februaiy 5tb. — France concluded a treaty with the 
 
 Conference. -li •• i -r-»-i i-ii 
 
 International Association to-day at Pans, by which the 
 frontiers between their respective territories are recog- 
 nised to be as follows : On the north the course of the 
 Chiloango river, thence from its source to near Man- 
 yanga, thence the River Congo, upward through the 
 centre of Stanley Pool, and along the Upper Congo as 
 far as and inclusive of the basin of the Likona. The 
 flag of the Association is to be regarded by France as 
 that of a friendly State, and the Government of the 
 Republic is to use its good offices in the effecting an 
 amicable understanding between Portugal and the 
 Association. 
 
 February 6th. — Russia formally recognised the Asso- 
 ciation Internationale du Congo to-day, and signed a 
 Convention with its President. 
 
 February 10th. — Sweden recognised the Association 
 to-day, and signed a Convention with it. 
 
 Februaiy 13th. — The Acte Generale was discussed 
 at a meeting of this day's Conference. Mr. Kasson, on 
 behalf of the United States, opposed the proposal to 
 give it the form of a Treaty. 
 
 February 14th. — The Commission sat this afternoon 
 to deliberate upon the neutrality question. 
 
 February 15th. — A Delimitation Convention has 
 been at last signed between Portugal and the Associa- 
 tion, by which the former obtains all the south or left 
 bank of the Congo from the sea as far as the rivulet at 
 Uango-Ango. The line between these territories runs 
 south through the mouth of this rivulet, to the latitude
 
 DELIMITATION CONVENTION. 401 
 
 of Nokki, thence east to the Kwa or Kwango. On The Berlin 
 
 1 f 1 r^ T-» • Conference. 
 
 the nttoral north oi the Congo, Jrortuguese territory 
 begins at the Httle stream near Cabo Lombo, or Red 
 Point, and thence extends along the sea-coast to Mas- 
 sabe'. In depth this territory extends inland about 
 35 miles, forming an enclave into that ceded to the 
 Association. 
 
 The International Association has obtained throuo-h 
 these late Conventions with France and Portugal a strip 
 of sea-coast extending from Banana Point to Cabo 
 Lombo, twenty-two miles in length. All of the north, 
 or right bank, as far as the Cataract of Ntombo Mataka, 
 tliree miles above Manyanga Station, with back country 
 inland, as far as the Chiloango River. On the south, or 
 left bank, the territory of tlie Association begins at 
 Uango-Ango rivulet, and ends at Lake Bangweolo. 
 Inland it runs south from the mouth of the Uango- 
 Ango rivulet to the latitude of Nokki, thence east 
 along that parallel to the Kwa or Kwango, thence the 
 line ascends the Kwa to S. lat. G°, which it follows 
 to the River Lubilash. Ascending the Lubilash, it 
 runs south to the water-parting between the Zambezi 
 and the Congo, which it follows to Lake Bangweolo. 
 From the eastern side of the lake the line runs to Lake 
 Tanganika, and follows its western shore to the Rusizi 
 influent, and up along its course until it touches east 
 long. 30°, as far as the water-parting between ihe 
 Congo and Nile waters, whence it strikes westward to 
 East long. 17°, and thence along that meridian south- 
 ward to the Likona Basin. 
 Vol. it.— 26
 
 402 THE CONGO, 
 
 The Berlin February 19 th. — The Commission was engaged this 
 * afternoon in deliberating upon the French neutrahty 
 proposal. 
 
 February 21st. — The neutrality question has been 
 adopted. Baron Lambermont's report on the final Acte 
 was read. 
 
 February 23rd. ^ — Belgium has formally recognised 
 the International Association, the Treaty being signed 
 to-day. Denmark has also declared by treaty it^ recog- 
 nition of the new State of the Congo. 
 
 Dr. Busch, the acting President, communicated to 
 the Conference the fact that nearly all the Powers 
 assembled had concluded Conventions for the recog- 
 nition of the International Association, and declared 
 not only his personal gratification at the news, but 
 also that the German Government entertained the 
 warmest sympathy with the magnanimous efibrts of 
 King Le'opold II., which had been so signally crowned 
 with success. The assembled delegates expressed their 
 cordial assent, and on their part recorded in the 
 protocol a similar testimony of their appreciation ot" 
 the great work of the King of the Belgians. (See 
 Appendix.) 
 
 February 2Gth. — The final plenary sitting of the 
 Conference took place to-day. Prince Bismarck occu- 
 pied the chair to formally close the meeting of repre- 
 sentatives of the Powers whom he had convoked to 
 deliberate upon the important questions now settled. 
 
 The final Act, which is engrossed on vellum, was 
 signed by the nineteen plenipotentiaries representing
 
 CLOSE OF THE CONFEBENCE. 403 
 
 fourteen European Powers. Prince Bismarck then The Berlin 
 rose and introduced Colonel Strauch, the President of 
 the International Association, to the members, and an- 
 nounced that lie, on behalf of that Association in its 
 recognised quality as the Congo State, had expressed 
 and signed its adhesion to the General Act of the West 
 African Conference. After reviewing the labours of 
 that high diplomatic body, the Prince concluded by 
 thanking the plenipotentiaries in the name of the 
 Emperor. 
 
 Count de Launay, as doyen of the plenipotentiaries, 
 returned the thanks of his illustrious associates, saying 
 that the success of the Conference was in a larce 
 measure due to the efforts of the German Chancellor. 
 
 My own remarks upon the laboin^s of the Conference 
 must be brief Two European Powers emerge out of 
 the elaborate discussions protracted for such a long 
 period, principally through the adroitness and skill 
 of Baron de Courcel, and the concurrence of Prince 
 Bismarck, with enormously increased colonial posses- 
 sions. 
 
 Prance is now mistress of a West African terri- 
 tory, noble in its dimensions, equal to the best tropic 
 lands for its vegetable productions, rich in mineral 
 resources, most promising for its future commercial 
 importance. 
 
 In area it covers a superficies of 257,000 square 
 miles, equal to that of France and England combined, 
 with access on the eastern side to 5200 miles of liver- 
 navigation ; on the West is a coast-line nearly 800 miles
 
 404 TEE CONGO. 
 
 The Beriia loDg, waslied by the Atlantic ocean. It contains within 
 
 Conference . , , . , . . , . , , 
 
 its borders eight spacious river basins, and throughout 
 all its broad surface of 90,000,000 square hectares, 
 not one utterly destitute of worth can be found. 
 
 Portugal issues out of the Conference with a coast- 
 line 995 English miles in length, 351,500 square 
 statute miles in extent, a territory larger than the 
 combined areas of France, Belgium, Holland, and 
 Great Britain. On the Lower Congo, its river bank 
 is 103 miles in length. It can now boast of healthy 
 pastoral lands to the south, oil and rubber producing 
 forests northward, mineral fields in the north-eastern 
 portion of its territory, and valuable agricultural 
 regions in its eastern borders. If her own population 
 were added to the aboriginal population of this African 
 colonial territory, and distributed over its area, there 
 would still be sufficient to give 32| acres to each 
 Portuguese white and black subject. Her home 
 and colonial populations of all colours number now 
 ,8,300,000. The area of her territories in Africa, 
 Asia, and the oceans, measure 741,343 square miles, 
 or 474,500,000 acres, sufficient to give each subject 
 57 acres. Great Britain, on the other hand, with all 
 her vast acreage of 5,05G millions of acres, can only 
 give to each of her 249,000,000 of people the small 
 portion of 20^ acres. 
 
 The International Association surrendered its claims 
 to 60,3 GO square miles of territory to France, and to 
 Portugal 45,400 square miles, for which consideration 
 600 square miles of the north bank between Boma
 
 ACQUISITIONS TO FRANCE AND PORTUGAL. 405 
 and the sea were conceded to it, besides cordial recog- The Berlin 
 
 (, . . . . . , . , p Conference. 
 
 nition 01 its remaining territorial rights from two 
 powerful neighbours. 
 
 To the world at large, the two powers above men- 
 tioned have been also duly considerate, for the territo- 
 ries surrendered to them by the Association have been 
 consecrated to free trade, which, along with those recog- 
 nised as belonging to the Association and which were 
 pre-ordained for such uses, and those as yet unclaimed 
 by any Power, but still reserved for the same privi- 
 leges, form a domain equal to 1,600,000 square miles 
 in extent, throughout which most exceptional privileges 
 have been secured by the cordial unanimity of the 
 riveraine of the United States and European Powers 
 for commerce. With due reserve for the sovereign 
 rights of Portugal and Zanzibar, this Free Trade area 
 extends across Africa to within one degtee of the East 
 Coast, thus enlarging the privileged commercial zone 
 to 2,400,000 square miles. 
 
 Cynics may declare, on glancing over the large mile- 
 age proudly claimed to have been reserved for free 
 development and trade, that the advantages are only 
 prospective ; that there are no traders within the 
 boundaries to be benefited by these liberal endow- 
 ments. That is true enough ; but the absorption of 
 Africa by European Powers was rapidly advancing, 
 and considerins: that of the coasts there remained but 
 little unoccupied, it is something surely to have rescued 
 such a large portion of Africa from final closure to 
 possible commercial enterprise.
 
 406 TEE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin Philanthropists argued very rationally in this wise: 
 
 Conference. 
 
 " Africa is already popularly supposed to be the most 
 unhealthy continent in the world. A general dread of 
 its climate prevails in the minds of men. It has been 
 but lately explored in its interior, and to all except a 
 few geographers it is comparatively unknown. If 
 European Powers are permitted to seize the coasts 
 round about the Continent, and levy the usual differen- 
 tial customs and high tariffs, they will for ever prevent 
 commercial enterprise from essaying the exploitation of 
 any part of it. If, hov/ever, we can guarantee these 
 fertile and naturally productive territories larger privi- 
 leges and absolute immunity from oppression, a few 
 bold enterprising spirits may be tempted to venture 
 inland, and their success will induce others to follow, 
 until the continent is fairly won from barbarism and 
 unproductiveness." 
 
 These philanthropic views have been realised. The 
 merchant adventurer is fenced all around with guaran- 
 tees against spoliation, oppression, vexation, and worry, 
 and his Consul, the representative of his Government, 
 is charged with the jurisdiction over his person and 
 property. At the gateway to the free commercial 
 realm the Commissioner, with his colleagues, will 
 take position, and will remain there close at hand to 
 protect his interests. These officials will constitute a 
 Court of Law called the International Commission, to 
 whom lie can always appeal for redress and protection. 
 Only on the exportation of the produce he has collected 
 can a moderate sum be charged, sufficient to remune-
 
 SATISFACTORY DIPLOMACY. 407 
 
 rate the riveraine Government for its expenditure. The Berlin 
 
 nil T cc 1 1 1 1 1 T • Conference. 
 
 1 he liquor tramc may not be abused ; sJave-tradmg is 
 prohibited ; the missionary is entitled to special pro- 
 tection ; and scientific expeditions to special privileges. 
 To all these numerous privileges in behalf of commerce 
 and humanity, the European Powers, and the United 
 States, as well as the International Association, other- 
 wise the Congo State, unanimously gave their approval, 
 and every political Power left the Conference with 
 unqualified satisfaction. 
 
 The author of this record likewise feels called upon 
 to express his unbounded satisfaction with all that has 
 been irrevocably fixed by the decrees of the assembled 
 representatives of Europe. He expresses also his per- 
 sonal thanks to His Serene Highness Prince Bismarck, 
 and to the German representatives. Dr. Busch and Herr 
 von Kusserow, for the remarkable patience they mani- 
 fested during the protracted sitting, which gave time 
 for the most advanced ideas to mature and bear fruit, 
 which the least impatience would have endangered ; 
 to Baron de Courcel^ for the exquisite tact he displayed 
 throughout his Presidency of the Commission, which 
 charmed all who came within his circle ; to each and 
 all of the assembled plenipotentiaries for their many 
 kindnesses and their enlightened co-operation. All men 
 who sympathise with good and noble works — and this 
 has been one of unparalleled munificence and grandeur 
 of ideas — will unite with the author in hoping that 
 King Leopold IT., the Royal Founder of this unique 
 humanitarian and political enterprise, whose wisdom
 
 408 TEE CONGO. 
 
 The Berlin rightly guided it, and whose moral courage bravely 
 
 Conference. .,. ., . ...... , , 
 
 sustained it amid varying vicissitudes to a nappy and 
 a successful issue, will long live to behold his Free 
 State expand and flourish to be a fruitful blessing to 
 a region that was until lately as dark as its own deep 
 sunless forest shades. 
 
 FINIS COROXAT OPUS.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 The Commercial Basin of the Congo, as described by the Author 
 before the berlin conference. 
 
 To define the geographical basin of the Congo, whether explored 7^^ Berlin 
 or unexplored, is a very easy matter, since every schoolboy knows Conferenca. 
 that a river basin — geographically speaking — includes all that 
 territory drained by the river and its affluents, large and small. 
 The Congo, i:nlike many other large rivers, has no fluvial delta ; it 
 issues into the Atlantic Ocean in one united stream between 
 Shark's Point on the south and Banana Point on the north, with a 
 breadth of seven miles and an unknown depth; soundings having 
 been obtained over 1300 feet deep. The Niger has a fluvial 
 delta extending over 180 miles of coast-line; the Nile and the 
 Mississippi have deltas extending over a considerable breadth of 
 coast-line. But when you ask me as to what I should consider as 
 the commercial basin of the Congo, I am bound to answer you 
 that the main river and its most important aftluents running into 
 it from the north and south and from the north-east and north- 
 west, east and west, south-east and south-west, constitute means 
 by which trade ascending the river and its affluents can influence 
 a much larger amount of territory than is comprised within the 
 geographical basin. 
 
 For all practical purposes the geographical basin of the Congo 
 might bo permitted to stand for the commercial basin of the 
 Congo as well. When, however, we begin to consider the com- 
 mercial outlets from this basin of the Congo, we must bear in 
 mind that they extend, as a commercial delta to a commercial 
 basin, from St. Paul de Loanda to the south of the mouth of the 
 Congo, as far north and including the Ogowai Kiver. Whereas
 
 410 APPENDIX. 
 
 The Berlin ^a^^ch of tlic littoral througli which the commercial delta de- 
 Conference, bouches is already occupied, we find that the hreadth of what may 
 be considered as the free commercial delta of the commercial basin 
 of the Congo extends along the coast-line from 1° 25' S. lat. to 
 Bear 7° 50' S. lat., 385 geographical miles. For the following 
 reason : at Stanley Pool, 325 miles up the Congo from the sea, we 
 encounter fleets of trading canoes which have descended the main 
 river from as far up as the Equator from the affluents Mohindu or 
 Black Eiver, and the Kwango or Kwa, who wait patiently months 
 at a time for the caravans from Loango, the Kwilu, Landana, 
 Kabinda, Zombo, Funta, Kinzao, Kinsembo, Ambrizette, and other 
 places on the coast, which bring European goods from the coast to 
 Stanley Pool to exchange for the produce of the Upper Congo, 
 notably ivory, rubber, and camwood powder ; and after a time, 
 having exchanged their goods, march back with such produce 
 of the Upper Congo as will repay transport, to the European 
 traders settled along the free coast-line of 385 geographical miles 
 iust mentioned. These various channels of trade, formed by un- 
 instructed barbarism, may then well be compared to a commercial 
 delta. To define the commercial basin of the Congo by boundaries 
 is very simple after the above remarks, and I will describe them 
 as folio \ys: Commencing from the Atlantic Ocean, I should follow 
 the line of 1° 25' S. lat, east as far as 13° 13' Ion. east of Green- 
 wich, and along that meridian north until the watershed of the 
 Niger-Binue is reached, thence easterly along the watershed 
 separating the waters flowing into the Congo from those flowing 
 into the Shari, and continuing east along the water-parting 
 between the waters of the Congo and those of the Nile, and 
 southerly and easterly along the watershed between the waters 
 flowing into the Tanganika and those flowing into the affluents of 
 Lake Victoria, and still clinging to the watershed to the east of 
 the Tanganika soiitherly until tlie water-parting between the 
 waters flowing into the Zambesi and those flowing into the Congo 
 is reached ; thence along that Avatershed westerly until the head 
 waters of the main tributary of the Kwango, or Kwa, is reached, 
 whence the line shown runs along the left bank of the river 
 Kwango, or Kwa, to 7° 50' S. lat. ; thence straight to the Logo 
 Biver, and thence alon<:^ the left bank of that river westerly to the 
 Atlantic Ocean. By this delimitation you will have comprised the 
 geographical or commercial basin and its present commercial 
 delta. 
 
 Baron de Courcel asked Avhat might the value of the trade in
 
 APPENDIX. 411 
 
 the Congo basin bo estimated at, to which Mr. Stanley replied : The Berlin 
 " The Lower Cony-o and the immediate free littoral make a shore- Conference, 
 line 388 English miles in length. This mileage produces a 
 present trade of £2,800,000 annually. The Upper Congo is much 
 more fertile, and, as it has a river shore of 10,000 miles, it 
 ought to produce, if equally developed, a trade worth £70,000,000 
 annually. Or, if we reckon it in this manner, from the river 
 Gambia to Loanda, along a coast-line of 2,900 miles in length, 
 there are employed fortj^-five steamers and eighty sailing vessels 
 every year. The Congo basin, with river banks over three times 
 longer, ought to employ, if equally developed and equally ex- 
 ploited, three times that number, or say 135 steamers, and 240 
 sailing vessels." 
 
 The Hon. Mr. Kasson, Minister for the United States, asked 
 Mr. Stanley if he would be good enough to explain to their 
 Excellencies if a further extension of the free commercial territory 
 to the eastwai'd would not be advantageous to commerce, to which 
 Mr. Stanley rejdied : I journeyed in the year, 1874, 1875, 187G, 
 and 1877 across Africa from east to west— that is to say from 
 Bagamoyo, opposite Zanzibar, to Lake Victoria. I circumnavi- 
 gated that lake, and thence proceeded west and discovered Muta- 
 Nzige. Eetraciug my steps to Lake Victoria, I journeyed to Lake 
 Tanganika, which lake I also circumnavigated, and then pro- 
 ceeded to Nyangwe and down the Congo Kiver to the Atlantic 
 Ocean. This journey was made across 25° of longitude and up 
 and down ll'' of latitude ; and I declare solemnly to you that, from 
 a distance of ten miles from Bagamoyo, my starting-place on the 
 east coast of Africa, until I sighted an English flag at the mast- 
 head of a merchant river-steamer on the Congo, along a journey of 
 7G00 miles, I never saw a flag, or an emblem, or symbol, flag- 
 staff, erection of w^ood, stone, or iron, to indicate that I had 
 come across civilised, or semi-civilised, power or authority; the 
 authority I encountered everywhere being the authority of in- 
 dependent native chiefs, exacting tribute on the eastern half, and 
 opposing violence on the western half. At Ujiji and Nyangwe I 
 did meet a trading community of Arabs settled at each place. But 
 they were isolated and cut off by want of connection from their 
 parent state at Zanzibar, and all comers hither had been compelled 
 to submit to pay tribute to the Wagogo, the Wahha, the Wavinza, 
 and the Wakaranga, independent native tribes who demanded the 
 tribute in recognition of their rights to the soil over which the 
 caravans passed. Therefore, this being the case, I would propose
 
 412 APPENDIX. 
 
 The Berlin that the free commercial territory across central Africa should be 
 Conference, comprised within the following limits : Beginning at the Atlantic 
 Ocean at S. latitude 1° 25', this line should run along that parallel 
 east to longitude 13° 30' from the GreenAvich meridian, thence 
 north along the meridian of 13^ 30' to N. latitude 5° ; thence along 
 that parallel of latitude continuously east to within one geogra- 
 phical degree from the Indian Ocean. From this point the line 
 should continue parallel with the east African coast at the 
 distance of one geographical degree down to the right bank of the 
 Zambesi, and the following rivers piercing this eastern line and 
 having their exit into the Indian Ocean: The Jub, the Tana, 
 the Pangani, the Wami, the Eufiji, or Lufiji, the Eovuma, and the 
 Zambesi — the latter as far up as five miles above the confluence 
 of the Shire and the Zambesi should be declared free to naviga- 
 tion ; thence from that point on the right bank of the Zambesi, 
 across that river and along the water passing between waters 
 flowing to Lake Nyassa, and those flowing direct to other affluents 
 of the Zambesi, northerly as far as the Congo and Zambesi 
 watershed ; thence westerly along that waterslied until the head 
 waters of the Kwango or Kwa shall have been reached, whence 
 the line shall follow the left bank of the principal tributary to 
 S. latitude 7° 50', and from that point the line to extend west- 
 ward of the Logo river, and following the left bank of that 
 river westerly to the Atlantic Ocean. Within the above 
 described limits, the Congo basin, in addition to the lacustrine 
 basins of the Lakes Victoria, Albert, and Nyassa, and the river 
 basins of the lower Jub, the Tana, the Pangani, the Wami, the 
 Lufii, the Rufiji, and the Rovuma, are comprised ; and I respect- 
 fully submit that the more unrestricted this spacious commercial 
 domain shall be the sooner it will be subjected to the influences of 
 Christianity, civilisation, and commerce. It bears within itself 
 nearly all the products required by the necessities of Europe, and 
 all the elements that might be needed for its conversion from 
 being an unproductive waste to be a material and moral profit to 
 humanity. Within its bosom it contains nearly 80,000 square 
 miles of lake water, the second largest river and river-basin in the 
 world, fertility that no equatorial or tropical regions elsewhere 
 can match, a population I should estimate at ninety millions 
 of people, great independent native empires, kingdoms, and 
 republics, like Uganda, Ruanda, Unyoro, and the pastoral plain 
 country like the Masai Land ; gold and silver deposits, abundant 
 copper and iron mines, valuable forests producing priceless timber,
 
 APPENDIX. 413 
 
 inexhaustible quantities of rubber, precious gums and spices, xhe Berlin 
 pepper and coffee, cattle in countless herds, and people who are Conference, 
 amenable to the courtesies of life provided they are protected from 
 the attacks of the lawless freebooter and the murderous wiles of 
 the slave-traders. These facts, I respectfully submit, are sufficient 
 to justify me in suggesting that the more comprehensible yet 
 simple limits just described should form the boundaries of the free 
 commercial territory of Equatorial Africa, and that free, un- 
 restricted means of access should be secured to it, both from the 
 east as well as from the west. 
 
 Baron do Courcel questioned Mr. Stanley as to the actual trade 
 at present in the Upper Congo by which it might be known what 
 existing inducements there were for the construction of a railway. 
 Mr. Stanley replied that at present on the Upper Congo, according 
 to his calculations, the goods and articles required by the French 
 settlements, the two English Mission Societies, the International 
 Association, and native caravans would, if constrained to pay the 
 railway the same prices as now paid for human transport, be suffi- 
 cient to pay 5 per cent, on a capital of £860,000, which was ample 
 for the construction of a light railway from Vivi to Isangila, four 
 steamers at £10,000 each, between Isangila and Manyanga, and a 
 railway section 95 miles long between Manyanga and Leopold- 
 ville. If, however, it was necessary to construct a direct line to 
 Leopoldville from Vivi, the cost would be £1,500,000, inclusive of 
 all expenses, and a flotilla to ply between the sea and Vivi. 
 
 Sir Edward Malet asked Mr. Stanley if, in his opinion, the line 
 of railway from Vivi to Stanley Pool would be sufficient as a com- 
 mercial outlet for the commerce of the Congo basin ? Mr. Stanley 
 replied : Certainly not. It might be a sufficient outlet for the 
 main channel of the river and the lower portions of the affluents 
 flowing into that channel, but it would not be a sufficient outlet 
 for the upper portions of the southern affluents, inasmuch as those 
 find an outlet by the caravan route, via Bihe to Bengiiella and 
 Angola, and Cassange to Angola, and the northern portions of the 
 north-western streams flowing info the Congo would naturally 
 seek the caravan routes to the Gaboon, the Ogowai, and the 
 Kwilu-Niadi. I therefore strictly adhere to my delimitation of 
 the commercial basin which I have already had the honour of de- 
 scribing to your Excellency. 
 
 His Excellency the Plenipotentiary for the Government of the 
 Netherlands remarked that Mr. Cameron had written a book wherein 
 it was stated that canals might be constructed with advantage.
 
 414 APPENDIX. 
 
 The Berlin He wotild be obliged if Mr. Stanley woiild inform him whether he 
 Conference, j^^d seen any localities where canals might be advantageously con- 
 structed. Mr. Stanley replied that he knew only of one place, and 
 that was between Lake Mantumba and Lake Leopold II., by 
 which a canal might easily be constructed, of a length of 25 
 miles, to connect the two places along a depression which showed 
 that at high A7ater it was possible the two lakes might even be 
 now connected. 
 
 Baron de Courcel inquii-ed whether there were any tunnels to 
 be made along the proposed railway between Vivi and Stanley 
 Pool ? Mr. Stanley replied in the negative. 
 
 After some remarks from Dr. Ballay depreciatory of the value 
 of the produce of the Congo basin, and of the Ogowai river as a 
 channel for transporting produce from the upper Congo to the 
 sea, Mr. Stanley replied as follows : Whereas Dr. Ballay ascended 
 the OgOAvai river, crossed the watershed, and descended the 
 Alima river to the Upper Congo with a steamer and large quanti- 
 ties of goods, and wliereas M. de Brazza likewise ascended the 
 Ogowai river and descended the Alima river, and on a former 
 occasion struck across to Stanley Pool, it is evident that the 
 Ogowai river must also be considered as a stream belonging to the 
 commercial delta of the commercial basin of the Congo. And 
 whereas in 1881 I received from M. de Brazza a letter wherein he 
 stated that he strongly recommended my sending by the Ogawai 
 route my letters, and officers incapacitated by sickness from 
 further work, as from experience he jiidged tliat route to be 
 shorter and superior to the route by the Congo to the sea, I 
 am bound to take M. de Brazza's own written statements, and 
 Messrs. de Brazza and Ballaj^'s successes by the Ogowai-Alima 
 route and Ogowai-Stanley Pool route as indisputable proofs of the 
 correctness of my assertions that if the commercial basin of the 
 Congo, Avith its various outlets to the sea, shall be declared free for 
 commerce to come and go untaxed, the free littoral should have its 
 northern limit at S. lat. 1° 25' to long. 13° 30' east of Greenwich, 
 and thence north along that meridian to the water-parting 
 between the waters flowing to the Niger-Binue and those flowing 
 to the Congo, and that the southern limit of the littoral will be 
 just if fixed at the mouth of tlie Loge river, thence east along 
 that river easterly to the left bank of the Kwango or Kwa river 
 at S. lat. V 50'.
 
 APPENDIX. 415 
 
 PROTOCOL, No. 9. 
 
 February 23r(?, 1885. 
 
 The sitting opened at half-past Three o'clock, under the Presidency The Berlin 
 of M. BUSCH. Conference. 
 
 The Piesident, before proceeding to the order of the da}', com- 
 municated totlie High Assembly a letter which had been addressed 
 to His Serene Highness Prince Bismarck by the President of the 
 International Aesociatiou of the Congo, and which was in these 
 terms : — 
 
 " PiiiNCE. — The International Association of the Congo has 
 concluded treaties in succession with all the Powers represented 
 at the Berlin Conference (except one) which among their clauses 
 contain a provision recognising its flag as that of a friendly 
 State or Government. The negotiations in progress with tlie 
 remaining Power will, there is every reason to hope, have an early 
 and favourable termitiation. I bring this fact to the knowledge 
 of your Serene Highness in accordance with the wishes of His 
 Majesty the King of the Belgians in liis capacity as Founder of the 
 Association. 
 
 "The meeting and the deliberations of the i;minent Assembly 
 now in session at Berlin under your High Presidency have 
 materially contributed to hasten this felicitous result. The Con- 
 ference, to which I beg to offer due homage, will, I venture to 
 hope, be disposed to consider the accession of a Power -whose 
 exclusive mission is to introduce civilisation and commerce into 
 the interior of Africa as an additional token of the results due to 
 its importai.t labours. 
 
 " I am, with the profoundest respect. 
 
 " Your Seiene Highness's most humble and 
 most obedient servant, 
 
 " Strauch. 
 " Berlin, 2drd February, 1885. 
 " To His Serene Highness Prince Bismarck, 
 
 " President of the Berlin Conference."
 
 416 APPENDIX. 
 
 ^, „ ,• M. BuscH having; read this communication spoke as follows : — 
 
 The Berlin ° • ^ • c ^• 
 
 Conference. " Gentlemen, — I believe I am expressing the unanimous teeling 
 of the Conference in welcoming as a happy event the communica- 
 tion which has been made to us and which informs us of the 
 almost unanimous rerognition of tlie International Association of 
 the Congo. AVe all of us do justice to the elevated purpose of the 
 work to which His Majesty the King of the Belgians has lent his 
 name ; we all of us recognise the efforts and sacrifices by means of 
 which he has guided it to the point it has reached to-day ; we are 
 all desirous that the most complete success may crown an enter- 
 prise which can support so usefully the objects the Conference has 
 had in view." 
 
 Baron de Courcel then spoke as follows : — 
 
 "As representing a Power whose possessions border on those of 
 the International Association of the Congo, I note with satisfaction 
 the step taken by that Association in informing us of its entrance 
 into international life. In the name of my Government I beg to 
 express the wish that the State of the Congo as now territorially 
 constituted within definite boundaries will soon provide regular 
 governmental organization for the vast domain whose prosperity 
 has been entrusted to it. Its neighbours will be the first to 
 i-ejoice at its progress, for they will be the first to profit by the 
 development of its prosperity and by all those guarantees of order, 
 safety, and good administration with which it has undertaken to 
 endow the interior of Africa. 
 
 " The new State owes its birth to the generous aspirations and 
 enlightened initiative of a Prince respected throughout Europe. 
 It h;is been devoted from its cradle to the practice of every liberty. 
 Assured of the unanimous goodwill of the Powers here represented, 
 let us join in the hope that it will fulfil the destiny promised for 
 it under the wise direction of its august founder, whose con- 
 trolling infiuence is the best assurance for its future." 
 
 Count Kapnist desired to join, in accordance with his instruc- 
 tions, in the homage rendered by his colleagues to the enlightened 
 and fertile initiative of His Majesty the King of the Belgians. 
 
 Sir Edward Malet then spoke as follows : — 
 
 " The part taken by Her Majesty's Government in recognising 
 the flag of the Association as that of a friendly Government 
 enables me to express the satisfaction with which we view the 
 constitution of this new State due to the initiative of His Majesty 
 the King of the Belgians. For many years the King, for purely 
 philanthropic motives, has spared nothing, neither personal effort
 
 APPENDIX. 417 
 
 nor pecuniary sacrifice, that could contribute to the realisation of 1885. 
 his object. The world in j^jeneral regarded Ids efforts v;ith in- ^*^^- ^'^• 
 difference. Here and there His Majesty received a little sympathy, Berlin- 
 but it was rather the sj'inpathy of condolence than that of encou- 
 ragement. It was thought tliat the undertaking was beyond his 
 stiength, that it was too great to succeed. It is now seen that the 
 King was right, and that Ids idea was not Utopian. He has brought 
 it to a successful ending, not without difficulties, but these very 
 difficullies have made the success more striking;. In acknowledo-- 
 ing the obstacles which His Majesty has had to contend with, we 
 most cordially greet the new-born State, and give expression to 
 our sincere dcbire that it may flourish and increase under his 
 protection. 
 
 "I may also be permitted on this occasion to express our acknow- 
 ledgments to the Government of Portugal and to the Minister of 
 Porl.ugal at Berlin for the friendly reception which they accorded 
 to the suggestions we had die honour tu address to them on the 
 subject of an arrangenient between Portugnl and the Association, 
 and for the spirit of conciliation with which they have brought 
 those negotiations to a successful close." 
 
 The Marquis of Penafiel, as representing a Power bordering on 
 the Congo State, declared his participation in the sentiments 
 expressed by Baron Courcel in his address tif welcome to the new 
 State. 
 
 Count de Launay joined most cordially in what had been said by 
 the President, by Baron Courcel, and by Sir Edward Malet. The 
 Powers here represented had already almost unanimously recognised 
 the new State which had just been founded under the august patron- 
 age of a sovereign \w\\o during eight years, with a constancj- rare and 
 worth}' of great praise, had spared neither trouble nor personal 
 sacrifice for the success of a noble and philanthropic enterprise. 
 The whole world bore witness by its sympathy and encouragement 
 to this work of civilisation and humanity, wliich was an honour to 
 the nineteenth century, and of which mankind in general would 
 for ever reap the benefit. 
 
 The Italian Ambassador also joined with pleasure in the senti- 
 ments expressed by the British Ambassador, with regard to the 
 Portuguese Government and its Plenipotentiaries at the Con- 
 ference. 
 
 Count SzficHfiNYi spoke to the same effect as his colleagues, in 
 whose sentiments he shared in every respect. 
 
 Count Benomar said that Spain was the possessor of teriitories 
 
 Vol. II.- 27
 
 Berlin. 
 
 418 AFPENDIX. 
 
 1885. in the nei^libourhood of those under the control of the Interna- 
 l-eb. 2i. ^JQjjr^i Association of the Congo. As representing a neighbouring 
 state, he, in the name of his Government, fully supported all that 
 the President had said in favour of the work of humanity and 
 civilisation originated by His Majesty the King of the Belgians. 
 
 M. de ViND was happy to join in the good wishes which had 
 already been expressed for the happiness and prosperity of the new 
 Congo state. The humanitarian and civilizing object of its founders 
 was highly appreciated by the Danish Government. 
 
 The Plenipotentiary of Sweden and Norway also joined in the 
 good wishes at the birth of the new State, and in favour of its 
 development. 
 
 Mr. Sanford said that the Government of the United States of 
 America had been the first to publicly acknowledge the great 
 civilizing work of King Leopold II. by recognising the flag of the 
 International Association of the Congo as that of a friendly govern- 
 ment. He was happy to find that this example had been followed 
 by the Powers of the Old World, and it only remained for him to 
 express his hope that he would see the crowning of the work 
 in the participation of the Association in the Acts of the Con- 
 ference. 
 
 Said Pasha regretted that he was not yet able to join officially 
 in the sympathetic declarations of his colleagues. Only a few days 
 had elapsed since this question of recognising the flag of the Inter- 
 national Association had arisen. There had not been sufficient time 
 for him to receive his instructions on the subject, but while await- 
 ing those instructions, he could say that personally he had nc 
 objection to the coustitiition of the new State. 
 
 Count Van der Straten Ponthoz thanked the President for the 
 terms in which he had spoken of His Majesty the King of the 
 Belgians. The sentiments thus expressed would be gratefully 
 received by the King and the Belgian nation ; and Count Van der 
 Straten Ponthoz would convey those sentiments to them without 
 delay. He was also bound to tell the Members of the High 
 Assembly how deeply he was sensible of the sympathetic and 
 unanimous approbation they had given to what had fallen from 
 j\I. Busch. The praise bestowed on the initiative pursued by the 
 King of the Belginns despite so many obstacles, was praise well 
 merited. The Acts of the Conference gave practical expression to 
 His Majesty's bold and generous ideas. The Government and the 
 Belgian nation would adhere with gratitude to the work elaborated 
 by the High Assembly, and thanks to which there was henceforth
 
 APPENDIX. 419 
 
 assured the existence of the new State ait" the same time as regula- i885. 
 tions were laid down in the general interest of mankind, . Feb. 23. 
 
 Baron Lambkrmont spoke as follows : — Berlin. 
 
 " If the President of the International Association of the Cono-o 
 had the honour to sit amongst you, it would fall to him to reply to 
 the words we have heard to-day, and which are so appreciative of 
 the King of the Belgians and of his work. In his absence, and 
 although representing His Majesty under another title, my col- 
 league and I thought we might be allowed to testify how fully we 
 are sensible of the compliment you have paid to the Founder of the 
 Association. 
 
 " Count Van der Straten has expressed his sentiments, and in 
 them I cordially join. We are well aware that we cannot go too 
 far in expressing in advance our gratitude, for we do so in His 
 Majesty's name, in recognition of thej support that his enterprise 
 has received amongst you, and which support is not the least 
 important guarantee of its success." 
 
 The President announces that the letter of the President of the 
 International Association of the Congo, and the various declarations 
 it had given rise to would become the Protocol of the sitting. It 
 is considered convenient by many of the Plenipotentiaries that in 
 order to complete Colonel Strauch's communication, copies of the 
 different treaties by which the International Association had ob- 
 tained the recognition of the several Governments should be bound 
 toorether and annexed to the Protocol. 
 
 DECLARATIONS 
 
 EXCHANGED BETWEEN THE UNITED STATES OF Al\IERICA AND THE 
 INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO. 
 
 The International Association of the Congo declares by these 
 presents, that in viitue of the treaties concluded with the legiti- 
 mate sovereigns, in the basins of the Congo and Niadi-Kwilu and 
 in the territories bordering on the Atlantic, there has been ceded 
 to it a territory for the use and profit of the Free States, alread}' 
 established, or in course of establishment, under the protection and 
 surveillance of the said Association in the said basins and adjacent 
 territories, and that the said Free States succeed to the full rights of 
 this cession. 
 
 That the said International Association has adopted as its flag as
 
 420 APPENDIX, 
 
 1884. well for itself as for the said Free States the flag of the International 
 April 22. African Association, that is to say, a blue flag with a golden star in 
 ^""'i"^' t'^e centre. 
 
 That the said Association and the said States have resolved to 
 levy no customs dues on goods or products imported into their 
 territories, or carried on the roads that have been constructed round 
 the cataracts of the Congo ; this resolution has been taken so as to 
 encourage trade in making its way into Equatorial Africa. 
 
 That they assure to strangers who settle in their territories the 
 right to buy, sell, or lease the lands and buildings therein situated, 
 to es^tablish houses of business, and to trade on the sole condition 
 of obeying the laws. They undertake in addition never to accord 
 an advantage to the citizens of one nation without immediately 
 extending the same to all other nations, and to do all in their power 
 to stop the slave-trade. 
 
 In witness whereof, Henry S. Sanford, duly authorised to that 
 effect by the said Association, acting for it, and in the name of the 
 said estates has hereto affixed his signature and his seal the 22nd 
 of April, 1884, at the city of Washington, 
 
 (Signed) H. S. Sanford. 
 
 L.S. 
 
 Frederic T. Frelinghuysen, Secretary of State, duly authorized 
 to that effect by the President of the United States of America, and 
 in conformity with the advice and consent given to that effect by 
 the Senate, acknowledges to have received from the Association of 
 the Congo the above declaration, and declares that in accordance 
 with the traditional policy of the United States, which enjoins their 
 carefid attention to the commercial interests of American citizens, 
 avoiding at the same time all interference in the controversies 
 engaged in between other powers, or the conclusion of alliances 
 with foreign nations, the Government of the United States declares 
 its sympathy with and approbation of the humane and noble object 
 of the International As-sociation of the Congo, acting in the interest 
 of the Free States established in that region, and commands all 
 officers of the United States, either on land or sea, to recognize the 
 flag of the International Association as that of a friendly Govern- 
 ment. 
 
 In witness whereof, ho has hereunder affixed his signature and 
 his seal this 22nd of AprU, 1884, in the city of Washington. 
 (Signed) Fred. T. Frelinghuysen. 
 
 L.S.
 
 APPENDIX. 421 
 
 1884. 
 Nov. 8. 
 CONVENTION Brussels. 
 
 BETWEEN TH3 EMPIRE OF GERMANY AND THE INTERNATIONAL 
 ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO. 
 
 Article I. 
 
 The International Association of the Congo undertakes to levy 
 no duties on articles or goods imported director in transit in their 
 possessions, present and future, in the basins of the Congo and the 
 Niadi-Kwilu, or in its possessions situated on the coast of the 
 Atlantic Ocean. This freedom from duties shall especially extend 
 to goods and articles of commerce which are transported on the 
 roads eslablished round the cataracts of the Congo. 
 
 Article II. 
 
 The subjects of the German Empire shall have the right of re- 
 siding or settling in tbe territories of the Association. They shall 
 be treated on the same footing as the subjects of the most favoured 
 nation therein, including the inhabitants of the comitry, in all 
 that concerns the protection of their persons or their goods, the free 
 exercise of their religion, the claiming and defence of their rights, 
 in matters of the navigation as well as in those of" commerce and 
 industry. 
 
 Especially they shall have the right to buy and sell, and lease 
 lands and buildings situated on the territories of the Association, 
 to found houses of business, and to engage therein in commerce and 
 coasting trade under the German flag. 
 
 Article III. 
 
 The Association undertakes never to accord the least advantage 
 to the subjects of another nation, unless such advantage is immedi- 
 ately extended to German subjects. 
 
 Article IV. 
 
 In case of the present or future cession of the territory of the 
 Association or of a part of that territory, the obligations contracttd 
 by the Association towards the Empire of Germany shall be trans-
 
 422 APPENDIX. 
 
 1884. ferred to the acquirer. These obligations and rights granted by 
 ^•5^'- 8. the Association to the Empire of Germany and to its Kubjects 
 Bfuesels. gj^^i} remain in foroe after every cession to each new acquirer. 
 
 Article V. 
 
 The Empire of Germany recognises the flag of the Association 
 — a blue flag with a goklen star in the centre — as that of a 
 friendly state. 
 
 Article VI. 
 
 The Empire of Germany is ready on its part to recognise the 
 frontiers of the territory of the Association, and of the new state 
 about to be founded, as indicated on the map annexed hereto. 
 
 Article VII. 
 
 This Convention shall be ratified, and the ratifications shall be 
 exchanged with the least possible delay. This Convention shall 
 come into force immediately after the exchange of the ratifications. 
 Done at Brussels, the 8th of November, 1884. 
 
 (Signed) Count de Brandenbourg. 
 
 Strauch. 
 
 DECLAEATIONS 
 
 exchanged between the g0veen31est of her britannic majesty 
 and the international association of the congo. 
 
 Declaration of the Association. 
 
 The International Association of the Congo, founded by His 
 Majesty the King of the Belgians with the object of encouraging 
 tlie civilization and commerce of Africa and also with humani- 
 tarian and philanthroi)ic intentions, declares by these presents as 
 follows : — 
 
 1. That by treaties concluded with the legitimate sovereigns 
 whose States are situated in tlie basins of the Congo and the 
 Niadi-Kwilu, and in the territories bordering on the Atlantic, 
 there has been ceded to it certain territories for the use and 
 profit of Free States established or to bo establised in the said 
 basins and adjacent territories.
 
 APPENDIX, 423 
 
 2. That in virtue of these treaties, the Association is invested 1884 
 with the administration of the interests of tiie said Free States. •'^'*^"' ^' 
 
 3. That the Association has adopted as its flag and that of the ^'^"^*^^^' 
 Free States a blue flag with a golden star in the centre. 
 
 4. That witli the object of allowing commerce to make its way 
 into Equatorial Africa, the Association and the said Free States 
 have resolved to levy no duty on articles of commerce or mer- 
 chandize imported direct into their territories, or introduced by 
 the roads which have been constructed round the cataracts of the 
 Congo. 
 
 5. That the Association and the said Free States guarantee to 
 foreigners settled in their territories the free exercise of their 
 religion, the rights of navigation, trade, and industry, as vv^ell as 
 the right to buy, sell, and lease land, buildings, mines and forests 
 on condition of obedience to the laws. 
 
 6. Thnt the Association and the said Free States shall do all in 
 their power to put an end to the slave trade and suppress slavery. 
 Done at Berlin, the IGth of December, 1884. 
 
 (Signed) Straucii. 
 
 In the name of the Asscciation. 
 
 Declaration of thk Government of Her Britannic Majestv. 
 
 The Government of Her Britannic Majesty declares that it 
 accords its sympathy and approbation to the humanitarian and 
 l>hilanthropic objects of the Association and, by these presents, re- 
 cognises the flag of the Association and the Free States under its 
 administration as the flag of a friendly Government. 
 
 (Signed) ■ Edward Mai.et. 
 
 In the name of Her Majesty s Government. 
 
 CONVENTION 
 
 between the government of her BRITANNIC MAJESTY AND THE 
 international ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO. 
 
 Seeing that the Government of Her Britannic Majesty has recog- 
 nised the flag of tlie Internafonal Association of the Congo and 
 the Free States under its administration as the flag of a friendly 
 Government ;
 
 Berlin. 
 
 424 APPENDIX. 
 
 1884. Being of opinion that it is advisable to regulate and define the 
 
 Dec. 16. j-iglits of British subjects in the territories of the said Free States, 
 and to provide for such matters concerning the exercise of civil 
 and criminal jurisdiction as shall be indicated hereunder until the 
 Association shall have provided in a sufficient manner for the 
 adiuinistration of justice with regard to foieigners, 
 It has been agreed : 
 
 Article I. 
 
 The International Association of the Congo undertakes to levy- 
 no duties of importation or transit on articles of commerce or m.er- 
 chandise imported by British sul)jects into the said territories, or 
 into the territories which hereafter may be placed under its 
 Government. This fj-eedom from duty shall extend to merchandise 
 and articles of commerce which shall be transported by the roads 
 and canals established or to be established round the cataracts of 
 the Congo. 
 
 Article II. 
 
 British subjects shall at all times have the right to reside and 
 settle in the territories which are or shall be under the government 
 of the Association. They shall enjoy the same protection as sub- 
 jects or citizens of the most favoured nation in all matters which 
 affect their persons and their goods, the free exercise of their reli- 
 gion, and the rights of navigation, commerce, and industry. Espe- 
 cially tliey shall have the right to buy, sell, lease, and let lands, 
 buildings, mines, and forests within the said territories ; to found 
 houses of business, and to engage in commerce and coasting trade 
 therein under the British flag;. 
 
 Article III. 
 
 The Association undertakes to accord no advantage, however 
 trifling, to the subjects of another nation, unless such advantage is 
 immediately extended to British subjects. 
 
 Article IV. 
 Tier Majesty the Queen of Great Britiin and Ireland may nomi- 
 nate consuls or other consular agents in the ports or stations on 
 the said territories, and the Association undertakes to protect them 
 therein.
 
 APPENDIX. 425 
 
 Article V. 1884. 
 
 Dec. 16. 
 Every British consul or consular agent who shall have been duly Berlin, 
 authorised by the Government of Her Britannic Majesty, shall 
 have power to establish a consular tribunal for the district assigned 
 to him, and shall exercise sole and exclusive jurisdiction, civil as 
 well as criminal, with regard to the persons and property of 
 British subject:^ within the said district, in accordance with the 
 British laws. 
 
 Article YI. 
 
 Nothing contained in the preceding article shall absolve any 
 British subject from the obligation of observing the laws of the 
 said Free States applicable to foreigners, but all infraction of those 
 laws on the part of a British subject shall be referred to the British 
 consular tribunal. 
 
 Article VI I. 
 
 If the inhabitants of the said territories which are subject to 
 the Government e»f the Association do any injury to the person or 
 property of a British subject, they shall be arrested and punished 
 by the authorities of the Association conformably to the laws of 
 the said Free States. Justice shall be administered equitably and 
 impartially on both sides. 
 
 Article VIII. 
 
 A British subject having grounds of complaint against an in- 
 liabitant of the said territories, subject to the government of the 
 Association, shall apply to the British Consulate and there detail 
 his grievance >. 
 
 The Consul shall make an inquiry to ascertain that the com- 
 plaint is well founded, and will do his utmost to arrange it ami- 
 cably. In the same way, if any inhabitant of the same territories 
 shall have cause of complaint against a British subject, the British 
 counsel shall hear his complaint and do his utmost to arrange the 
 matter amicably. If differences arise of such nature that the 
 British Consul cannot arrange them amicably, he shall have re- 
 course to the authorities of the Association to examine into the 
 matter and end it equitably.
 
 426 APPENDIX. 
 
 1884. Article IX. 
 
 Dec. 16. 
 
 Berlin. I^ an inhabitant of the said territories subject to the govern- 
 ment of the Association should fail to pay any debt contracted 
 with a British subject, the authorities of the Association shall do 
 all in their power to bring him to justice and procure the recovery 
 of the said debt ; and if a British subject should fail in the pay- 
 ment of any debt contracted witli one of the inhabitants, the British 
 authorities shall in the same way do their utmost to bring him to 
 justice and procure the recovery of the debt. Ko British Consul 
 and no authority of the Association shall be held responsible for 
 a debt contracted by a British subject, nor by any inhabitant of 
 the said territoiies who is subject to the government of the Asso- 
 ciati 
 
 Article X. 
 
 In case of the cession of an}' territory which now or in the future 
 shall be under the government of the Association, the obligations 
 contracted by the Association in the present Convention shall apply 
 to the grantee. The engagements and rights accorded to British 
 subjects shall remain in force after every cession with regard to 
 every new occupant of every part of tlie paid territorj'. 
 
 This Convention shall be ratified, and the ratifications shall be 
 exchanged with as little delay as possible. This Convention shall 
 come into force immediately after the exchange of the ratifications. 
 
 Done at Berlin, the IGth of December, eighteen hundred and 
 eighty-four. 
 
 (Signed) Edward Malet. 
 
 Straucu. 
 
 CONVENTION 
 
 BETWEE.N THE NETHERLANDS AND THE INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION 
 OF THE CONGO. 
 
 ■ Article I. 
 
 The International Association of the Congo undertakes to levy 
 no duties of importation, or transit on mercliandise, or articles of 
 commerce, imported by Dutch subjects within the present or future 
 possessions of the Association. The freedom from duties shuU ex-
 
 Brussels. 
 
 APPENDIX. 427 
 
 tend to merchandise and articles of commerce transported on the 1884. 
 roads or canals which are or shall })e established round the cataracts J^'"' 
 of the Congo. 
 
 Article II. 
 
 Dutch subjects shall at all times have the right to reside or settle 
 in the teiritories which are or shall be subject to the Association. 
 They shall enjoy the protection accorded to subjects or citizens of 
 the most favoured nation in all matters concerning their peisons, 
 their property, the free exercise of their religion, and the rights of 
 navigation, commerce and industry ; they shall especially have the 
 right to buy and sell, let and lease land, mines, forests, and build- 
 ings in the said territories; to found therein houses of bunness, 
 and carry on commerce and coasting trade under the Dutch flag. 
 
 Article III. 
 
 The Association undertakes to grant no advantage whatsoever 
 fo the subjects ui another nation, unless such advantages are im- 
 mediately extended to Dutch subjects. 
 
 Article IV. 
 
 His Majesty the King of the Netherlands has the right to nominate 
 Consuls or Consular Agents in the ports or stations of the said 
 territories, and the* Association undertakes to protect them. 
 
 Article V 
 
 Until the administration of justice shall have been organized in 
 the Free States of the Congo, and until that organization shall 
 have been notified by the Association, every Dutch Consul or Con- 
 sular Agent, who has been duly authorized by the Government of 
 His Majesty the King of the Netherlands, may establish a Consular 
 tribunal for the (xtent of the district assigned to him, and in that 
 case will exorcise sole and exclusive jurisdiction, civil as well as 
 ciiniinal, with regard to the persons and property of Dutch sub- 
 jects within the ^aid district, conformably to the laws of the 
 Netherlands. 
 
 Article YI. 
 
 Nothing contained in the foregoing article shall absolve any 
 Dutch subject from the obligation of observing the laws of the
 
 428 APPENDIX. 
 
 188+. Free States applicable to foreigners, but all infractions thereof on 
 Dec. 2(. ^}^Q pgj,|. q£ ^ Dutch subject sball be referred to a Dutch Consular 
 Brussels, tribunal. 
 
 Article VII. 
 
 If the inhabitants of the said countries, who are subjects of the 
 government of the As.-oeiation, do any injury to the person or pro- 
 perty of a Dutch subject, they shall be arrested and punished by 
 the authorities of the Association, conformably to the laws of the 
 said Free States. Justice shall be administered equitably and 
 imparti illy on both sides. 
 
 Article VIII. 
 
 A Dutch subject having grounds of complaint against an in- 
 habitant of the said territories subject to the government of the 
 Association shall apply to the Dutch Consul ite, and tbere detail his 
 grievance. The Consul shall proceed to enquiie if the same be well- 
 founded, and do all in h's power to arrange the matter amicabl}-. 
 In the same way, if any inhabitant of the said territories has any 
 complaint concerning a Dutch subject, the Dutch Consul shall hear 
 the complaint, and do his utmost to arrange the difficulty amicably. 
 If differences arise of such a nature that the Consul cannot arrange 
 them amicably, he shall then have recourse to the authorities of 
 the Association, for them to examine into the matter and end it 
 equitably. 
 
 Article IX. 
 
 If an inhabitant of the said territories subject to the government 
 of the Association shall fail in the payment of a debt contracted 
 with a Dutch subject, the authorities of the Association shall do all 
 in their power to bring him to justice, and procure the recovery of 
 the debt, and if a Dutch subject shall fail in the payment of a debt 
 contracted with one of the inhabitants, the Dutch authorities shall 
 do all in their power to bring him to justice, and procure the 
 recovery of the debt. 
 
 No Dutch Consul nor any authority of the Association shall be 
 held responsible for the payment of a debt contracted by an in- 
 habitant of any of the territories subject to the government of the 
 Association or by any Dutch subject. 
 
 Article X. 
 
 In the event of the cession of the territory now under the 
 government of the Association, or which shall be so at any future
 
 Dec. 27. 
 Brussels. 
 
 APPENDIX. 429 
 
 time, or of any part of the said territory, all the ohligations con- 1884 
 tracted by the Assocliition in the present Convention shall be 
 binding on the grantee. These arr-mgements and rights accorded 
 to Dutch subjects shall remain in force after the cession with le- 
 gard to any new occupant of no matter what part of the said 
 territory. 
 
 Article XI. 
 
 The Association and the Free States engage to do all in their 
 power to put an end to the slave-trade and suppress slavery. 
 
 Article XII. 
 
 The Kingdom of tlie Netherlands, according its sympathy to the 
 humanitarian and civilising object of the Association, recognizes 
 the flag of the Association and the Free States placed under its 
 administration — a blue flag with a golden star in the centre — as the 
 flag of a friendly Government. 
 
 Article XIII. 
 
 This Convention bhall be ratified, and the ratifications shall be 
 exchanged with as little delay as possible. It shall come into force 
 immediately after the exchange of the ratifications. 
 
 In witness whereof the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed 
 it, and to it have affi.xed the seal of their coat of arms. 
 
 Done at Brussels, the twenty-seventh day of the month of 
 December, of the year one thousand eight hundred and eighty-four. 
 
 (Signed) L. Gericke. 
 
 Strauch. 
 
 CONVENTION 
 
 BETWEEN THE GOVERNMENT OF THE FRENCH REPUBLIC AND THE 
 INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO. 
 
 Article I. 
 
 The International Association of the Congo declares that.it 
 extends to France the advantages it has conceded to the United 
 States of America, to the Empire of Germany, to England, to 
 Italy, to Austro-Hungary, to the Netherlands, and to Spain, in
 
 430 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. virtue of the Convention it has concluded with the several Powers 
 
 Paris^' °^ *^® respective dates of the 22nd of April, the 8th of November, 
 
 the 16th, 19th, 24th, and 29th of December, 1884, and the 7th of 
 
 January, 1885, and of which the texts are annexed to the present 
 
 Convention. 
 
 Article II. 
 
 The Association undertakes, in addition, to accord no advantages 
 of any nature whatsoever to the subjects of another nation without 
 immediately extending those advantages to French citizens. 
 
 Article III. 
 
 The Government of the French Eepublic and the Association 
 adopt for the frontiers between their possessions : 
 
 The Eiver Chiloango from the ocean to its most northerly 
 source ; 
 
 The crest of the water-parting of the Niadi-Kwilu and the Congo 
 as far as the meridian of Manyanga ; 
 
 A line to be determined, and which, following as much as 
 possible, a natural division of the ground terminates between the 
 station of Manyanga and the cataract of Ntombo Mataka in a point 
 situated on the navigable portion of the river ; 
 
 The Congo to Stanley Pool : 
 
 The centre line of Stanley Pool ; 
 
 The Congo to a point to be determined up the stream of the 
 Eiver Licona-Kkiindja ; 
 
 A line to be determined from that point to the 17th degree of 
 longitude east from Greenwich, following as much as possible the 
 line of the water-parting of the basin of the Licona-Nkundja, 
 which forms part of the French possessions ; 
 
 The 17th degree of lons-itude east from Greenwich. 
 
 Article IV. 
 
 A Commission composed of representatives of the contracting 
 parties, equal in number on both sides, shall be entrusted with 
 executing on the spot the laying out of the frontier conformably 
 to the preceding stiiiulations. In case of dispute the matter shall 
 be referred to delegates nominated by the International Commission 
 of the Congo.
 
 APPENDIX. 431 
 
 Article V. 1884. 
 
 Feb. 5. 
 tJnder the reservation of the arrangements about to take place Paris, 
 between the International Association of the Congo and Portugal 
 for the territories situated to the south of the Chiloango, the Go- 
 vernment of the French Republic is disposed to recognise the 
 neutrality of the possessions of the International Association within 
 the frontiers shown on the annexed map, subject to the discussion 
 and regulation of the conditions of that neutrality in accord with 
 the other Powers represented at the Berlin Conference. 
 
 Article VI. 
 
 The Government of the French Republic recognises the flag of 
 the International Association of the Congo — a blue flag with a 
 golden star in the centre— as the flag of a friendly Government. 
 
 In witness whereof the respective Plenipotentiaries have signed 
 the present Convention, and to it affixed their seals. 
 
 Done at Paris, the 5th of February, 1885. 
 
 (Signed) Jules Ferry. (L.S.) 
 
 OoMTE Paul de Borchgrave d'Altena (L.S.) 
 
 CONVENTION 
 
 between PORTUGAL AND THE INTERNATIONAL ASSOCIATIOX OF THE 
 
 CONGO. 
 
 ■ Article I. 
 
 The International Association of the Congo declares that it 
 extends to Portugal the advantages it has conceded to the United 
 States of America, to the Empire of Germany, to England, to Italy, 
 to Austro-Hungary, to the Netherlands, to Spain, to France and to 
 the United Kingdoms of Sweden and Norway, in virtue of the 
 Conventions it has concluded with these several Powers of the re- 
 spective dates of the 22nd of April, the 8th of November, the 16th, 
 19lh, 24th, and 2t)th of December, 1884, tJie 7th of January, the 
 5th and 10th of February, 1885, and of which the Association 
 un lertakes to remit authentic copies to the Government of His 
 Most Faithful Majesty.
 
 432 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885, .Article IT. 
 
 Feb, 14 
 
 Beiiiu. The International Association of the Congo undertakes in addi- 
 tion to accord no advantages of any kind whatsoever to the sub- 
 jects of another nation wifhout immediately extending thoee 
 advantages to the subjects of His Most Faithful Majesty 
 
 Article III. 
 
 The International Association of the Congo and His Most Faith- 
 ful Majesty the King of Portugal and the Algarves adopt for 
 frontiers between their possessions in Western Africa the follow- 
 ing :— 
 
 To Ihe north of the Eiver Congo (Zaire) the right bank of the 
 mouth of the river which enters the Atlantic Ocean to the south of 
 the Bay of Cabinda, close to Punta Vermelha, at Cabo-Lombo ; 
 
 The parallel of this last point prolonged up to its intersection 
 •with the meridian of the junction of the Culacalla with the 
 LucuUa ; 
 
 The meridian thus determined to its meeting with the Eiver 
 Luculla; 
 
 The course of the Luculla to its junction with the Chiloango 
 (Luango Luce) ; 
 
 The course of the Congo (Zaire) from its mouth to its junction 
 with the small river of Uango-Uango ; 
 
 The meiidian which passes through the mouth of the small 
 Eiver Uango-Uango between the Dutch factory and the Portuguese 
 factory, so as to leave the latter in Portuguese territory up to the 
 meeting of the meridian with the parallel of Nokk ; 
 
 The parallel of Nokk to its intersection with the Eiver Kuango 
 (Cuango) ; 
 
 From this point southwards the course of the Kuango (Cuango). 
 
 Article IV. 
 
 A Commission composed of representatives of the contracting 
 parties eqiial in number on both sides shall be intrusted wnth the 
 execution on the spot of the laying out of the frontier conformably 
 to ihe foregoing stipulations. In case of dispute the matter shall 
 be referred to delegates nominated by the International Commis- 
 sion of the Congo.
 
 APPENDIX. 433 
 
 Article V. 1885. 
 
 Feb. 14. 
 
 His Most Faithful Majesty tlie King of Portugal and the Al«^aive8 Berlin, 
 is disposed to recognise the neutrality of tlie possessions of the In- 
 ternational Association of the Congo, subject to the discussion and 
 regulation of that neutrality in accord with the other puwers repre- 
 sented at the Berlin Conference. 
 
 Article VI. 
 
 His Most Faithful Majesty the King of Portugal and the Algarves 
 recognises the flng of the International Association of the Congo — 
 a blue flag with a goldon star in the centre -as the flag of a friendly 
 Government. 
 
 Article VII. 
 
 The present Convention shall be ratified, and the ratifications 
 shall be exchanged at Paris within three months, or sooner if 
 possible. 
 
 In witness whereof the Plenipotentiaries of the two contracting 
 parties, and His Excellency the Baron de Courcel, Ambassador Ex- 
 traoidinary and Plenipotentiary of France at Berlin, as representing 
 the medial ing Power, have signed the present Convention, and 
 thereto affixed their seals. 
 
 Done in triplicate at Berlin, the fourteenth day of the month of 
 February, eighteen hundred and eighty-five. 
 
 (Signed) Marquis de Penafiel. 
 Strauch. 
 Alph de Courcel. 
 
 DECLAKATIONS 
 
 EXCHANGED BETWEEN THE BELGIAN GOVERNMKNT AND THE 
 INTEKNATIONAL ASSOCIATION OF THE CONGO. 
 
 The International Association of the Congo declares by these 
 presents that in virtue of treaties concluded with the legitimate 
 sovereigns in the basin of the Congo and its tributaries, it has 
 been ceded the sovereignty of vast territories with the object of 
 founding a free and independent Stite ; that Conventions define the 
 frontiers of the territories of the Association as regards those of 
 
 Vol. II.— 28
 
 434 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. France and Portugal, and tl'.at the frontiers of the Association are 
 Feb. 23, 1 *i J 
 
 snown on the annexed map. 
 Berlin. . . . 
 
 That the said Association has adopted as the flag of the State 
 
 administered by it a blue flag with a star of gold in its centre. 
 
 That the said Association has resolved to levy no customs duties on 
 merchandise or products imported into its territories or transported 
 on the roads which have been constructed round the cataracts of 
 the Congo ; this resolution has been tsken so as to encourage trade 
 to make its way into Equatorial Africa. 
 
 That it assures to foreigners who settle in its territories the 
 right to buy, sell, and lease ground and buildings situated thereon, 
 to establish houses of business, and trade under the sole condition 
 of obeying the laws. It undertakes, in addition, to accord no 
 advantage to the citizens of one nation without immediately 
 extending it to the citizens of all other nations, and to do all in 
 its power to put down the slave trade. 
 
 In vritness whereof the President of the Association acting for it 
 has hereunder affixed his signature and his seal. 
 
 Berlin, the twenty-third day of the month of February, one 
 thousand eight hundred and eighty-five. 
 
 (Signed) Strauch. 
 
 The Belgian Government takes note of the declaration of the 
 Inteinaticmal . Association of the Congo, and by the-e presents 
 recognises the Association within the boundaries stated, and recog- 
 nises its flag as that of a friendly State. 
 
 In witness whereof the undersigned, duly authorized, have affixed 
 their signature and seal. 
 
 Berlin, the twenty-third day'' of the month of February, one 
 thousand eight hundred and eighty-five. 
 
 (Signed) Cte, Aug. van der Straten Poxtiioz, 
 
 Baron Lambermont. 
 
 PROTOCOL, No. 10. 
 
 Sitting of the 2Gth of February, 1885. 
 Present : 
 
 For Germany : Prince Bismarck ; M. Buscn ; M. de Kusserow. 
 For Austro-ITungary : Count, Szk;ciii^:nyi. 
 For Belgium : Count Van der Straten Ponthoz; Baron Lamuku- 
 
 MONT,
 
 APPENDIX. 435 
 
 For Deiiiiiark : M. de Vind. 1885. 
 
 For Spain : Count de Benomar. ^''^- '^^■ 
 
 For the United iStates of America : Mr. John A. Kasson ; Mr. •^'''■^'°- 
 
 PIenky S. Sanford. 
 For France : Baron de Courcel. 
 For Great Britain : Sir Edward Malet. 
 For Italy : Count de Launay. 
 
 For the Netherlands : The Johkheer van der Hoeven. 
 For Porttigal ; Mavc^uis de Penafiel ; M. de Serpa Pi.mentel. 
 ForEnssia: Count Kapnist. 
 For Sweden and Norway : General Baron Bildt. 
 For Turkey : Said Pasha. 
 
 The sitting opened at half-past two o'clock, under the Presi- 
 dency of His Serene Highness Prince Bismarck. 
 
 The President expressed his regret at having been prevented 
 by the state of his health and. the pressure of business from sharing 
 in the whole of the labours of the High Assembly which he, how- 
 ever, had followed with much interest. 
 
 His Serene Highness then delivered the following address : — 
 
 " Gentlemen, — Our Conference after long and laborious delibera- 
 tions, has reached the end of its work, and I am glad to say that 
 thanks to your efforts and to that spirit of conciliation which has 
 presided over our proceedings, a complete accord has been cmne to 
 on every point of the programme submitted to us. 
 
 " The resolutions which vve ai'c about to sanction formall}' secure 
 to the trade of all nations fi'ce access to the interior of the African 
 Continent. The guarantees by which the freedom of trade will be 
 assured in the Congo basin, and the whole of the arrangements 
 embodied in the rules for the navigation of the Congo and the 
 Niger, are of such a nature as to afford the commerce and industry 
 of all nations the most favourable conditions for their development 
 and security. 
 
 " In another series of regulations you have shown your solicitude 
 for the moral and material welfare of the native po])ulati.)n, and 
 we may hope that those principles adopted in a spirit of wise 
 moderation will bear fruit, and help to familiarise those i^opulations 
 ■with the benefits of civilisation. 
 
 " The particular conditions under which are placed tlie vast 
 regions you have just opened up to commercial enterprise have 
 seemed to require special guarantees for the preservation of peace 
 and public order. In fact, the scourge of war would become par- 
 ticularly disastrous if the natives were led to take sides in the
 
 436 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. disputes between tlie civilised Powers. Justly apprehensive of the 
 Feb. 26, (Jauggrg that snch an event might. have for the interests of com- 
 ^^ '"■ raerce and civilisation, you have sought for the means of with- 
 drawing a great part of the African Continent from the vicissitudes 
 of general politics, in confining therein the rivalry of nations to 
 peaceful emulation in trade and industry. 
 
 "In the same manner you have endeavoured to avoid all mis- 
 understanding and dispute to which fresh annexations on the African 
 coast might give rise. The declaration of the formalities required 
 before such annexations can be conssidered eifective introduces a 
 new rule into public law, which in its turn will remove many a 
 cause of dissent and conflict from our international relations. 
 
 " The spirit of mutual good understanding which has distin- 
 guished your deliberations has also presided over the negotiations 
 that have been carried on outside the Conference, with a view to 
 arrano-e the difficult question of delimitation between the parties 
 exercising sovereign rights in the Congo basin, and which by their 
 p(jsition are destined to be the chief guardians of the work we are 
 about to sanction. 
 
 " I cannot touch on this subject without bearing testimony to 
 the noble efforts of His Majesty the King of the Belgians, the 
 founder of a work which now has gained the recognition of almost 
 all the Powers, and which as it grows will render valuable service 
 to the cause of humanity. 
 
 " Gentlemen, I am requested by His Majesty the Emperor and 
 King, my august Master, to convey to you his warmest thanks for 
 the part each of you has taken in the felicitous accomplishment of 
 the work of the Conference. 
 
 " I fulfil a final duty in gratefully acknowledging what the Con- 
 ference owes to those of its members who undertook the hard work 
 of the Commission, notably to the Baron de Courcel and to Baron 
 Lambermont. I have also to thank the delegates for the valuable 
 assistance they have rendered us, and I include in this expression 
 of thanks the secretaries of the Conference, who have facilitated 
 our deliberations by the accuracy of their work. 
 
 " Like the other labours of man, the work of this Conference 
 may be improved upon and perfected, but it will, I hope, mark an 
 advance in the development of international relations, and foi'm a 
 new bond of union between the nations of the civilised world." 
 
 Count de Launay then spoke as follows :— 
 
 " Gentlemen, we are all of us very pleased to see His Serene 
 Highness Prince Bismarck once more amongst us.
 
 Berlin. 
 
 APPENDIX. 437 
 
 " We have the honour to thank him for his speech, which bore 1885. 
 the maik of such perfect courtesy, and for his flattering opinion • 
 
 of the efforts which have resulted in onr general agreement. 
 
 " As you have just heard, he has been prevented, much against 
 his inclination, from presiding in person at all our s^ittings, but 
 his mighty mind has hovered over this assembly. If he has been 
 obliged to delegate his functions, he knew beforehand that he 
 was putting them in good hands. In fact, Count Hatzfeldt and 
 Under Secretary of State, M. Busch, huve successively carried out 
 their instructions with an intelligence, a tact, and a spirit of con- 
 ciliation that we are all of ns pleased to acknowledge. We owe 
 them a debt of gratitude. Both of them have thoroughh' entered 
 into the princij^les that have been brought before us with equal 
 precision and elevation of view ever since the begirning of the 
 Conference. 
 
 "Whatever may be reserved for our work in the future — it 
 remains subject to the vicissitudes of all things human — we can at 
 present at least bear witness that we have neglected nothing that 
 was at all possible to open up into the interior of the African 
 Continent a broad road for the moral and mateiial progress of its 
 native races and for the development of the general welfare of 
 commerce and navigation. 
 
 "We have, simultaneously, served the cause of religion, of 
 peace, of humanity, and enlarged the domain of public international 
 law. 
 
 " Such was the object we had in view. If we have su-'ceeded in 
 attaining it, a large part of the merit is due to our illustrious 
 Piesident, the promoter of the meeting of this Conference, the 
 author of the programme which formed the basis of our delibera- 
 tions. 
 
 " I am thus secure of the unanimous assent of the members of 
 this High Assembly in expressing to His Serene Highness Prince 
 Bismarck our cordial acknowledgment for his having, whether 
 present or absent, given our labours their best direction. 
 
 " As we are about to part, I think, gentlemen, that I am your 
 faithful interpreter in offering the homage of our respectful grati- 
 tude for the kindly welcome vve have received from His Majesty 
 the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia, and also from his 
 august family." 
 
 At Count de Launay's suggestion, the members of the High 
 Assembly rise from their seats to mark their hearty assent to what
 
 438 APPENDIX. 
 
 has "been said by the Italian representative with regard to His 
 Majesty the Emperor. 
 
 Prince Bismarck thanks Count de Launay for his appreciative 
 remarks. He expresses a wi&h that the Plenipotentiaries and 
 himself will in the course of their political life have frequent 
 opportunities of meeting in that unanimously friendly spirit which 
 has distinguished the Berlin Conference. His Serene Highness ' 
 bears witness to the satisfaction he has experienced at the excellent 
 relations to which the Conference has given rise. 
 
 The president consults the high assembly as to whether it will 
 be convenient before proceeding to the signature of the general 
 act to have the document read. The general act already adopted 
 in its entirety by the Conference has been printed and distributed 
 to the Plenipotentiaries for their mature consideration. The 
 high assembly may perhaps under the circumstances think it well 
 to omit the formality of the customary reading. Should that be 
 the general feeling, it will be in accord with the opinion of the 
 president. 
 
 Said Pasha considers the reading superfluous. 
 
 The high assembly unaniuiously agrees to the suggestion 
 offered by Prince Bismarck. 
 
 The president formally announces that the high assembly having 
 given the general act its definitive sanction, withuut wishing to 
 hear it lead over for the last lime, it will perha^DS immediately 
 pass to the signature of the documents. 
 
 However, before inviting the Plenipotentiaries to proceed to 
 
 this formality. Prince Bismarck, in order to simplify the order of 
 
 business, desires to bring before the Conference a communication 
 
 wbich ought strictly to follow the signing of the treaty, and 
 
 ■ which is to this effect : — 
 
 " Peferring to Article XXXVII. of the Act just accepted by you 
 I have the honour to make a communication to you which has just 
 reached me. This is the adoption by the International Association 
 of the Congo of the resolutions of the Conference. I will take 
 the liberty of reading tbis document, as well as a letter from 
 Colonel Strauch, the President of the Association." 
 
 The President reads these documents, which are as follows : — 
 
 1. Act of Adhesion of the International Association of the Congo 
 to the General Act of the Berlin Conference, of date the 26th of 
 February, 1885. 
 
 " The International Association of the Congo, in virtue of Article
 
 APPENDIX. 439 
 
 XXXVII. of the General Act of the Berlin Conference declares by i885. 
 these presents that it adheres to the provisions of the said General ^^^- ^*'- 
 Act. ^^^^•■^• 
 
 " In witness whereof the President of the International Associa- 
 tion of the Congo has signed the present declaration and thereto 
 affixed his seal. 
 
 " Done at Berlin the twenty-sixth day of the month of February, 
 one thousand eight hundred and eighty-five. 
 
 " Colonel Strauch." (L. S.) 
 
 2. Letter from Colonel Strauch to his Serene Highness Prince 
 Bismarck : — 
 
 " Prince, — In virtue of the powers given to me by His Majesty 
 the King of the Belgians, acting as founder of the International 
 Association of the Ccngo, powers sent herewith, and in conformity 
 with Article XXXVII. of the General Act of the Berlin Conference, 
 I have the honour to forward to the Governraent of the German 
 Empire the Act by which the International Association of the 
 Congo adheres to the said General Act. 
 
 " I trust that your Serene Highness will in accordance with the 
 stipulation which forms paragraph two of the same Article notify 
 this adhesion to the States that have signed the General Act or 
 who will adhere to it. 
 
 The International Association of the Couq-o will reyard the 
 favourable consideration given to its request as another proof of 
 the friendliness of the Powers towards a work destined by its 
 origin, its conditions of existence, and its object to aid in the 
 accomplishment of the generous ideas of the Conference. 
 " I am, with profound respect, 
 
 " Your Serene Highness's most humble and 
 most obedient servant. 
 
 Colonel Strauch. 
 " The President of the International Association of the Congo." 
 "Berlin, 2Qtli Fem-uary, 1885." 
 
 3. Powers conferred on Colonel Strauch. 
 
 " AVe, Leopold II., King of the Belgians, acting as Founder of 
 the International Association of tlie Congo, give by these presents 
 full powers to M. Strauch, President of that Association, to sign 
 the Act of accession to the general treaty adopted by the Berlin 
 Conference. 
 
 "Leopold. (L. S.) 
 
 " Brussels, 15th February, 1885."
 
 440 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. His Serene Highness Prince Bismarck then speaks as follows : — 
 Feb. 26. ^ ^ 
 
 J. ,. " Gentlemen, — I believe I express the feeling of the Assembly 
 
 in greeting with satisfaction the stej) taken by the International 
 
 Association of the Congo, and in acknowledging its adhesion to 
 
 our resolutions. Tlie new Congo State is destined to be one of the 
 
 chief protectors of the work we have in view, and I hope it will 
 
 have a prosperous development, and that the noble aspirations of 
 
 its illustrious founder may be fulfilled." 
 
 At the President's invitation, the Pleuipotentaries then proceed 
 to the signature of the final Act. 
 
 The President announces that the sitting is at an end, and the 
 High Assembly separates at half-past Four o'clock, 
 
 (Signed) 
 
 szech^nyi. f. p. van der hoeven. 
 
 Cte, Augte. Van der Marquis de Penafiel. 
 
 Straten Ponthoz. a. de Serpa Pimentel. 
 
 Bn. L ambermont. Cte. P. Kapnist. 
 
 E. YiND. GiLLIS BiLDT. 
 
 COMTE DE BeNOMAR. SaID. 
 
 John A. Easson. V. Bismarck. 
 
 Alph. de Courcel. Busch. 
 
 Edward B. Malet. V. Kusserow. 
 Launay. 
 
 Certified as agreeing with original, 
 
 Raindre. 
 
 CoMTE W. Bismarck. 
 
 Schmidt. 
 
 THE GENERAL ACT OF THE BERLIN CONFERENCE. 
 
 In the Name of Ahniijliiij God. 
 
 His Majesty the Emperor of Germanj', King of Prussia. His 
 Majesty the Emperor of Austria, King of Bohemia, &c., and King 
 Apostolic of Hunjiarj', His ]\Iajesty the King of the Belgians, His 
 Majesty the King of Denmark, His Majesty the King of Spain, the 
 President of the United States of America, the President of tlie 
 Frencli Republic, Her Majesty the Queen of the United Kingdom
 
 Berlin. 
 
 APPENDIX. 441 
 
 of Great Britain and Ireland, Empress of India, His Majesty the 1885. 
 King of Italy, His Majesty the King of the Netherlands, Grand ^ ' 
 Duke of Luxemburg, His Majesty the King of Portugal and the 
 Algarves, &c., &c., Arc, His Mnjesty the Czar of all the linssias, 
 His INIajesty the King of Sweden and Norway, &o., &c., and His 
 Majesty the Sultan of the Turks. 
 
 Desirous of settling. in a spirit of mutual goodwill the most 
 favourable conditions for the development of commerce and civili- 
 sation in certain districts in Africa, and ensuring to the natives 
 the advantages of the free navigation of the two chief African 
 rivers that flow into the Atlantic Ocean ; desirous, moreover, 
 of preventing misunderstandings and disputes which may in 
 the future arise as new territories are annexed on the African 
 coast, and at the same time anxious to promote the moral and 
 material welfare of the native races, have lesolved at the invita- 
 tion addressed to them by the Imperial Government of Germany, 
 in accord with the Government of the French Republic to meet 
 for these pui'poses in a Conference at Berlin, and have nominated 
 as Their Plenipotentiaries the following : — 
 
 His Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia ; 
 
 Lo Sieur Oriio, Pi ince Bismarck, His President of the Council of 
 Ministers of Prussia, Chancellor of the Empire; 
 
 Paul, Count Hatzfelut, His Minister of State and Secretary of 
 State for the Department of Foreign Affairs ; 
 
 Le Sieur Auguste Busch, His Privy Councillor of Legation, and 
 Under-Secretary of Stite for the department of Foreign Affairs ; 
 and 
 
 Le Sieur Henri de Kusserow, His Privy Councillor of Legation of 
 the Department of Foreign Affairs. 
 
 His Majesty the Emperor of Austria, King of Bohemia, &c., and 
 King Apostolic of Hungary ; 
 
 Le Sieur Emeric, Count Szechenyi de Sarvari Felso-Yidek, Cham- 
 berlain and Privy Councillor, His Ambassador Extraordinary 
 and Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor of Germany, 
 King of Prussia. 
 
 His Majesty the King of the Belgians ; 
 
 Le Sieur Gabriel Auguste, Count Van der Straten Ponthoz, His 
 Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to His 
 Majestj' the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia ; and 
 
 Le Sienr Auguste, Baron Lamhermont, Minister of State, His Envoy 
 Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary.
 
 442 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. His Majesty the King of Dexjiark ; 
 Feb. 26. Yjq Sieur Emil de Vind, Chamberlain, His Envoy Extraordinary 
 ^' "^" and Minister Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor of 
 
 Germany, King of Prussia. 
 
 His Majesty the King of Spain ; 
 
 Don Francisco Merry y Colom, Count de Benomar. His Envoy 
 Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to His JMajesty 
 Empevor of Germany, King of Prussia. 
 
 The President of the United States of America ; 
 
 Le Sieur John A. Kasson, Envoy Extraordinary and Minister 
 Plenipotentiary of the United States of North America, to His 
 Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia ; and 
 
 Le Sieur Henry S. Sanford, Ex-Minister. 
 
 The President of the French Eepublic ; 
 
 Le Sieur Alphonse, Baron de Courcel, Ambassador Extraordinary 
 and Plenipotentiary of France, to His Majesty the Emperor of 
 Germany, King of Prussia. 
 
 Her Majesty the Queen of the United Kingdom of Great Britain 
 AUD Ireland, Empress of India ; 
 
 Sir Edward Baldwin Malet, Her Ambassador Extraordinary and 
 Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King 
 of Prussia. 
 
 His Majesty the King of Italy; 
 
 Le Sieur Edouard, Count de Launay, His Ambassador Extraordi- 
 nary and Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor of 
 Germany, King of Piussia. 
 
 His Majesty the King of the Netherlands, Grand Duke of 
 Luxemburg, &c. ; 
 
 Le Sieur Frederic Philippe, Jonkheer Van der Hoeven, His 
 Envoy Extraordinary and Minister Plenipotentiary to His 
 Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia. 
 
 His Majesty the King of Portugal and the Algarves, &c. ; 
 
 Le Sieur du Serra Gomes, Marquis de Penafiel, Peer of the Eealm, 
 His Envoy Extraordinary and IMinister Plenipotentiary to His 
 Majesty the Emperor of Germany, King of Prus>ia ; and 
 
 Le Sieur Antoine de Serpa Pimentel, Councillor of State and Peer 
 of the Realm. 
 
 His Majesty the Czar of all the Russias ; 
 
 Le Sieur Pierre, Count Kapnis r, Pi ivy Councillor, His Envoy Ex- 
 traordinary and Minister Plenipotentiaiy to His Majesty the 
 King of the Netherlands. 
 
 His Majesty the King of Sweden and Norway, &c. ;
 
 Feb. 26. 
 Berlin. 
 
 APPENDIX. 443 
 
 Le Sieur Gillis, Baron Bildt, Lieutenaut General, His Envoy Ex- ^1885 
 
 traordinary and Minister Plenipotentiaiy to His Majesty the 
 
 Emperor of Germany, King of Prussia. 
 His Majestv the Sultan of the Turks ; 
 Mehemed Said, Pasha, Vizier and High Dignitary, His Ambassador 
 
 Extraordinary and Plenipotentiary to His Majesty the Emperor 
 
 of Germany, King of Prussia. 
 Who, furnished with full powers, which have been found to be 
 in good and proper form, have successively discussed and adopted. 
 
 1. A declaration relative to the freedom of trade in the basin of 
 the Congo, its mouths, and circumjacent districts, with certain 
 arrangements connected therewith. 
 
 2. A declaration concerning the slave-trade, and the operations 
 on land or sea, which supply the slaves for the trade. 
 
 3. A declaration relative to the neutrality of the territories com- 
 prised in the said basin of the Congo. 
 
 4. An act as to the navigation of the Congo, which takes into 
 consideration the local circumst mces affecting the river ; its afflu- 
 ents, and the waters that are similar to them, the general principles 
 set forth in Articles lOS to 116 of the final Act of the Congress of 
 Vienna, and intended to regulate between the signatory powers to 
 that act, the free navigation of navigable watercourses that separate 
 or traverse several States ; principles that have once been generally 
 applied to the rivers of Europe and America, and notably to the 
 Danube with the modifications foreseen by the Treaties of Paris of 
 1856, of Berlin of 1878, of London of 1871 and 1883. 
 
 5. Aw act f(jr the navigation of the Niger, which also takes into 
 consideration the local circumstances affecting this river and its 
 affluents, on the same principles set forth in Articles 108 to 116 of 
 the final Act of the Congress of Vienna. 
 
 6. A declaration introducing into international relations uniform 
 rules with regard to annexations which may take place in the 
 future on the African continent ; 
 
 And having decided that these various documents could be use- 
 fully combined in a single deed, have collected them in a general 
 act composed of the following ai tides. 
 
 CHAPTEE I. 
 
 Declaration relative to the freedom of commeice in the basin of 
 the Congo, its mouths, and circumjacent districts, with certain 
 arrano-ements connected therewith.
 
 444 APPENDIX. 
 
 Article I. 
 
 1885. The trade of all nations shall be entirely free : 
 
 Feb. 26. 2. In all the territories constituting the basin of the Congo and 
 3erlin. j^^ affluents. The basin is bounded by the crests of the adjoining 
 basins, that is to say, the basins of the Kiari, of the Ogowe, of the 
 Shari, and of the Nile towards the north ; by the line of the 
 eastern lidge of the affluents of Lake Tanganyika towards the east ; 
 by the crests of the basins of the Zambesi and the Loge towards 
 the south. It consequently embraces all the teriitories drained by 
 the Congo and its affluent-, comprising therein Lake Tanganyika 
 and its eastern trilmtaries. 
 
 2. In the maritime zone extending along the Atlantic Ocean 
 from the parallel of 2° 30' s-outh latitude to the mouth of the Loge. 
 
 The northern limit will follow the parallel of 2^ 30' from the 
 coast until it reaches the geographical bisin of the Congo, avoiding 
 the basin of the Ogowe, to which the stipulations of the present 
 Act do not appl}'. 
 
 The southern limit will follow the course of the Loge up to the 
 source of that river, and thence strike eastwards to its junction 
 with the geographic il basin of the C aigo. 
 
 3. In the zone extending eastwards fr^m the basin of the Congo 
 as limited above herein, to the Indian Ocean, from the fifth degree 
 of north Latitude to the mouth of the Zambesi on the south ; from 
 this point the line of demarcation will follow the Zambesi for five 
 miles up stream to the junction with the Shire, and continue by 
 the line of the ridge dividing the waters which flow towards lake 
 Nyassa "from the tributary waters of the Zambesi, until it rejoins 
 the line of the water-parting between the Zambesi and the Congo. 
 It is expressly understood that in extending to this eastern zone 
 the principle of commercial freedom, the Pov/ers lepresented at the 
 Conference bind only themselves, and that the principle will apply 
 to territories actually belonging to some independent and sovereign 
 state only so far as that state consents to it. The Powers agree to 
 employ their good offices among the cslablished Governments on 
 the African coast of tlie Indian Ocean, to obtain such consent and 
 in any case to ensure the most favourable conditions to all nations. 
 
 Articlk II. 
 
 All flags, without distinction of nationality, shall have free 
 access to all the coast of the territories above enumeiated, to the
 
 APPENDIX. 445 
 
 rivers wliicli therein flow to the sea to all the waters of the Congo 1885. 
 and its affluents, includinjj; the lakes, to all the canals that in the 
 future may be cut with the object of uniting the watercourses or 
 the lakes comprised in the whole extent of the teriitories described 
 in Article I. They can undertake all kinds of transport, and 
 engage in maritime and fluvial coas'ing, as well as river navigation, 
 on the same footing as the natives. 
 
 Article III. 
 
 Goods from every source imported into these territories under 
 any flag whatsoever, either by way of the sea, the rivers, or the 
 land, shall pay no taxes except such as are an equitable compensa- 
 tion for the necessaiy expenses of the trade, and which can meet 
 with equal support from the natives and from foreigners of every 
 nationality. 
 
 All differential treatment is forbidden both with regard to ships 
 and goods. 
 
 Article IV. 
 
 Goods imported into these territories will remain free of all 
 charges for entry and tiansit. 
 
 The powers reserve to themselves, imtil the end of a period of 
 twenty years, the right of deciding if freedom of entry shall be 
 maintained or not. 
 
 Article V. 
 
 Every Power which exercises or will exercise sovereign rights 
 in the territories above-mentioned, cannot therein concede any 
 monopoly or privilege of any sort in commercial matters. 
 
 Foreigners shall therein indiscriminately enjoy the same treat- 
 ment and rights as the natives in the protection of their persons 
 and goods, in the acquisition and transmission of their property, 
 moveable and immovable, and in the exercise of their professions. 
 
 Article YI. 
 
 Provisions Belative to the Protection of the Natives, to Missionaries 
 and Travellers, and to Bellgious Liberty. 
 
 All the Powers exercising sovereign rights, or having influence 
 in the said territories, undertake to watch over the preservation of 
 the native races, and the amelioration of the moral and material
 
 t'eb. 26 
 Berlin 
 
 446 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. conditions of their existence, and to co-operate in the suppression 
 of slavery, and above all of the slave trade ; they will protect and 
 encourage, without distinction of nationality or creed, all institu- 
 tions and enterprises, religious, scientific, or charitable, established 
 and organised for these objects or tending to educate the natives, 
 and lead them to understand and appreciate the advantages of 
 civilisation. 
 
 Christian missionaries, men of science, explorers, and their 
 escorts and collections, to be equally the object of sj^ecial pro- 
 tection. 
 
 Liberty of conscience and religious tolertition are expressly 
 guaranteed to the natives as well as to the inhabitants and 
 foreigners. The free and public exercise of every creed, the right 
 to erect religions buildings and to organise missions belonging to 
 every creed, shall be subject to no restriction or impediment what- 
 soever. 
 
 Article VII. 
 Postal Arrangements. 
 
 The Convention of the Postal Union revised at Paris on the 1st 
 of June, 1878, shall apply to the said basin of tbe Congo. 
 
 The PoAvers which there exercise or will exercise rights of 
 sovereignty or protectorate, undertake, as soon as circumstances 
 permit, to introduce the necessary measures to give etlect to the 
 above resolution. 
 
 Article VIII. 
 
 Hiijht of Surveillance conferred on the International Commission for the 
 Navigation of the Congo. 
 
 In all parts of the territory embraced in the present Declaration, 
 where no Power shall exercise the rights of sovereignty or protec- 
 torate, the International Commission for the navigation of the 
 Congo, constituted in accordance with Article XVII., shall bo 
 entrusted with the surveillance of the application of the principles 
 declared and establisheil in this Declaration. 
 
 In all cases of difficulties arising relative to the ajiplication of 
 the j>rinciplcs cstablislicd by the present Declaration, the (Jovorn- 
 nients interested shall agree to appeal to tlie good ofllices of the 
 International Commission, leaving to it the examination of the facte 
 which have given rise to the difficulties.
 
 APPENDIX. 4A1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 1885. 
 
 Feb. 2d 
 
 DECLARATION CONCERNING THE SLAVE TRADE. Berlin. 
 
 Article IX. 
 
 In conformity with the principles of the right of nations as 
 recognised by the signatory Powers, the slave trade being forbidden, 
 and operations which on hind or sea snpply shives for the trade 
 being equally held to be forbidden, the Powers which exercise or 
 will exercise lights of sovereignty or influence in the territories 
 forming the basin of the Congo declare that these territories shall 
 serve neither for tlie place of sale nor the way of trani-it for the 
 traffic in slaves of any race whatsoeA'er. Each of the Powers under- 
 takes to employ every means that it can to put an end to the trade 
 and to punish those who engage in it. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 DECLAR.\TI0N RELATIVE TO THE NEUTRALITY OF THE TERRITORIES 
 COMPRISED IN THE SAID BASIN OF THE CONGO. 
 
 Article X. 
 
 In order to give a new guarantee of security for commerce and 
 industry, and to encourage by the maintenance of peace the de- 
 velopment of civilisation in the countries mentioned in Article I. 
 and placed under the system of free trade, the High Parties signa- 
 tory- to the present Act, and those who will accept the same, hereby 
 undertake to respect the neutrality of the territories, or parts of 
 the territories dependent on the said countries, comprising therein 
 the territorial waters, for so long as the Powers which exercise, or 
 will exercise, the rights of soveieignty or protectorate over the 
 teriitories, avail themselves of the right to proclaim them neutral 
 and fiilfil the duties that neutrality implies. 
 
 Article XI. 
 
 In cases where a Power exercising rights of sovereignty or pro- 
 tectorate in the countries mentioned in Article I. and i)laced under 
 the system of free trade shall be involved in war, the High Parties 
 signatory to the present Act and those who v\ill accept the same • 
 liereby engage to use their good offices so that the teriitories be- 
 longing to that Power, and comprised within the said boundaries 
 where free trade exists, shall, by the mutual consent of that Power
 
 Berlin. 
 
 448 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. and of the otlier or others of the belligerent parties, be held to be 
 Feb. 2b. j^g^^^j.^l foj. gg long as the war lasts, and considered as belonging to 
 a non-belligerent state ; the belligerent parties will then abstain 
 from extending hostilities into such neutralised tenitories as well 
 as from using them as a base for operations of war. 
 
 Article XII. 
 
 In the event of a serious disagreement originating on the sub- 
 ject, or arising within the limits of the territories mentioned in 
 Article I., and placed under the sj'stem of fi*eedom of trade, between 
 Powers signatory to the present Act or Powers accepting the s^ame, 
 these Powers undertake before appealing to arms to have recourse 
 to the mediation of one or seveial of the friendly Powers. 
 
 Under the said circumstances the said Power reserve to them- 
 selves the option of proceeding to arbitration. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 ACT OF THE NAVIGATION OF THE CONGO. 
 
 Article XIII. 
 
 The navigation of the Congo, without any exception of any 
 branches or issues of the river, is to remain entirely free for mer- 
 chant shipping of all nations in cargo or ballast, for the carriage of 
 goods or the carriage of passengers. It shall be in accordance with 
 the provisions of tiie present Act of navigation or of the regulations 
 established in execution of the said Act. 
 
 In the exercise of that navigation the subjects and flags of all 
 nations shall under all circumstances be treated on a footing of 
 absolute equality as well as regards tiie direct navigation from the 
 open sea towards the interior ports of the Congo, and vice versa, as 
 for grand and petty coasting and boat and river work all along the 
 river. 
 
 Consequently, throughout the Congo's course and mouths, no 
 distinction shall be made between the subjects of the river-side 
 States and those not bordering on the river, and no exclusive privi- 
 lege of navigatioTi shall be granted cither to societies or corpota- 
 tions or individuals. 
 
 These provisions are recognised by the signatory Powers as 
 henceforth forming part of public international law.
 
 APPENDIX. 449 
 
 Article XIV. 
 
 The navigation of the Congo shall not be subjected to any i885. 
 restiaints or imposts which are not expressly stipulated for in the ^^^- ^t^- 
 present Act. It shall not be burdened with any duties for har- ^eili"- 
 bourage, stoppages, depots, breaking bulk, or putting in through 
 stress of weather. 
 
 Throughout the length of the Congo ships and merchandise 
 passing along the stream shall be subject to no transit dues, no 
 matter what may be their origin or destination. 
 
 There shall not be established any tolls, marine or river, based 
 on the fact of navigation alone, nor shall any duty be imposed on 
 the merchandise on board the vessels. Such ta,\es and duties only 
 shall be levied as are of the character of lemuneration for services 
 rendered to the said tiavigation. That is to say : 
 
 1. Taxes of the pnrt loi- the actual use of certain local establish- 
 
 ments, such as wharves, wai'ehouses, &c. 
 
 The tariff of such taxes to be calculated on the expenses 
 of construction and su})port of the said local establishments, 
 and in its application to be independent ol the origin of the 
 vessels and their cargo. 
 
 2. Pilotage dues on sections of the rivt-r, or where it appears 
 
 necessary to establish stations of certificated pilots. 
 
 The tariff of these dues to be fixed and propoitionate to 
 the services rendered. 
 
 3. Dues in respect of the technical and administrative expenses, 
 
 imposed in the general interest of the navigation, and com- 
 prising lighthouse, beacon, and buoyage dues. 
 
 Dues of the last description to be based on the tonnage of 
 the ships according to the papers on board, and to be con- 
 formable to the regulations in force on the Lower Daijube. 
 The tariffs of the taxes and dues mentioned in the three preced- 
 ing paragraphs are not to admit of any differential treatment, and 
 are to be officially published in each port. 
 
 The Powers reserve to themselves the right at the end of five 
 years, by mutual agreement, to inquire into the above-mentioned 
 tariffs in case thej'^ require revision. 
 
 Article XV. 
 
 The affluents of the Congo shall under all circumstances be 
 subject to the same regulations as the river of which they are ihe 
 tributaries. 
 
 YoL. II.— 29
 
 •150 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. The t^ame regulations shall apply to the lakes and canals as to 
 
 Feb. 26. |.j^g rivers and streams in the territories defined in Article I., 
 ^''^'°- paragraphs 2 and 3. 
 
 Nevertheless the powers of the International Commission of the 
 Congo shall not extend over the said rivers, lakes, and canals, 
 unless with the assent of the States under whose sovereignty they 
 are placed. It is also understood that for the territories mentioned 
 in Article I, paragraph 3, the consent of the sovereign States on 
 whom these territories are dependent remains reserved. 
 
 Article XV J. 
 
 The roads, railways, or lateral canals which shall be establishtd 
 for the special object of supplementing the innavigability or imper- 
 fections of the water-way in certain sections of the Congo, of its 
 affluents and other watercourses held to be like unto them by 
 Article XY., shall be considered in their capacity as means of 
 communication as dependencies of the river, and shall be likewise 
 open to the traffic of all nations. 
 
 And as on the river there shall be levied on these roads, railways, 
 and canals, only tolls calculated on the expenses of construction, 
 maintenance, and administration, and on the profits due to the 
 promoters. 
 
 In the assessment of these tolls foreigners and the inhabitantb 
 of the respective territories shall be treated on a footing of perfect 
 equality. 
 
 Article XVII. 
 
 An International Commission is instituted appointed to ensure 
 the execution of the provisions of the present Act of Navigation. 
 
 The Powers signatory to this Act, as well as those who after- 
 wards accept it, shall at all times be represented on the said Com- 
 mission each by a delegate. No delegate shall have more than one 
 vote even in the event of his representing several Governments. 
 
 This delegate shall be paid by his own Government direct. 
 
 The salaries and allowances of the agents and servants of the 
 International Commission shall be charged on the proceeds of the 
 dues levied conformably to Article XIV., ])aragraphs 2 and :!. 
 
 The amounts of the said salaries and allowances as well as the 
 number, position, and Huties of the agents and servants shall appear 
 in the account lendered each year to the Governments represented 
 on the International Commission.
 
 APPENDIX. 451 
 
 Article XVIII. 
 
 The members of the International Commus.si(m, as well as the i885. 
 agents nominated by them, ai'e invested with the privilege of in- ^^^'- ''^^• 
 vioUibility in the exercise of their functions. The same guarantee ^'^''''"' 
 shall extend to the offices, premises, and archives of the Cora- 
 mission. 
 
 Article XIX. 
 
 The International Commission for the navigation of the Congo 
 shall be constituted as sooti as five of the signatory Powers of the 
 present General Act shall have nominated their delegates. Pend- 
 ing the constitution of the Commission, the nomination of the 
 delegates shall be notified to the Government of the German 
 Empire, by whom the necessary steps will be taken to manage 
 the meeting of the Commission. 
 
 The Commission will draw up without delay the arrangements 
 for the naAHgation, river police, pilotage, and quarantine. 
 
 These regulations as well as the tarifis instituted by the Com- 
 mission, before being put in force, shall be submitted to the 
 approbation of the Powers represented on the Commission. 'J'he 
 Powers interested shall declare their opinion therein with the 
 least possible delay. 
 
 Ofiences against these regulations shall be dealt wiih by the 
 agents of the Inteinational Ctimmitision, wheie it exercises its 
 authority direct, and in other places by the riverside Power. 
 
 In case of abuse of power or injustice on the part of an agent or 
 servant of the International Commission, the individual consider- 
 ing himself injured on his person or his rights, shall apply to tlie 
 Consular agent of his nation. He will enquire into his comjilaint, 
 \^ prima facie he finds it reasonable, he shall be entitled to report it 
 to the Commission. On Ids initiative, the Commission represented 
 by three or fewer of its members shall join with him in an enquiry 
 touching the conduct of its agent or servant. If the Consular 
 agent considers the decision of the Commission as objectionable in 
 law, he shall report to the Govei-nment, who shall refer to the 
 Powers represented on the Commission, and invite them to agree 
 as to the instructions to be given to the Commission. 
 
 Article XX. 
 
 The International Commission of the Congo entrusted under 
 the terms of Article XVII., with ensuring the execution of the
 
 452 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. present Act of Navigation shall .-specially devote its attention 
 
 Feb. 26. to— 
 
 Berlin. -|^_ r^-^^ indication of such works as are necessary for ensuring 
 
 the navigability of the Congo, in accordance with the requirements 
 of international trade. 
 
 On sections of the river where no Power exercises rights of 
 sovereignty, the International Commission shall itself take the 
 measures necessary for ensuring the navigability of the stream. 
 
 On sections of the river occupied by a sovereign Power, the Inter- 
 national Commission shall arrange with the riversiile auhority. 
 
 2. The fixing of the tariff for pilotage and of the general tarilf 
 of navigation dues, provided for in the second and third paragraphs 
 of Article XIV. 
 
 The tariffs mentioned in the first paragraph of Article XIV. shall 
 be settled by the territorial authority within the limits piovided 
 for in that Article. 
 
 The collection of these dues shall be under the care of the inter- 
 national or territorial authority, on whose account they have been 
 established. 
 
 3. The administration of the revenues accruing from the appli- 
 cation of the foregoing paragraph 2. 
 
 4. The surveillance of the quarantine establishment ins'ituted 
 in compliance with Article XXIV. 
 
 5. The nomination of agents for the general service of the navi- 
 gation and its own particular servants. 
 
 The appointment of sub-inspectors shall belong to the tenitorial 
 authority over sections occupied by a Power, and to tbe Inter- 
 national Commission over the other seciions of the river. 
 
 The riverside Power will notify to the International Commission 
 the nomination of its sub-inspectors which it shall have appointed, 
 and this Power shall pay their salaries. 
 
 In the exercise of its duties as defined and limited above, the 
 International Commission shall not be subject to the territorial 
 authority. 
 
 Article XXI. 
 
 In the execution of its task, the International Comtnission shall 
 have recourse in case of need to the vessels of war belonging to 
 the signatory Powers of this Act, and to those which in the future 
 shall accept it, if not in contravention of the instructions which 
 shall have been given to the commanders of those vessels by their 
 respective Governments.
 
 APPENDIX. 453 
 
 Article XXI T. 
 
 The vessels of war of the Powers signatory to the present Act 1885. 
 which enter the Congo are exempt from the payment of the ^''^' ^^' 
 navigation dues provided for in paragraph 3 of Article XIV. ; but ■^^^■^^°- 
 they shall pay the contingent pilotage dues as well as the harbour 
 dues, unless their intervention has been demanded by the Inter- 
 national Commission or its agents under the terms of the precedino- 
 Article. 
 
 Article XXIII. 
 
 With the object of meeting the technical and administrative 
 expenses which it may have to incur, the International Com- 
 mission, instituted under Article XVIL, may in its own name issue 
 loans secured on the revenues assigned to the said Commission, 
 
 The resolutions of tlie Commission regaiding the issue of a loan 
 must be carried by a majority of two-thirds of its votes. It is 
 undei stood that the Governments represented on the Commission 
 shall not, in any case, be considered as assuming any guarantee 
 nor contracting any engagement or joint responsibility with 
 regard to the said loans, unless special tieaties are concluded 
 amongst them to that effect. 
 
 The proceeds of the dues specified in the third paragraph of 
 Article XIV., shall be in the first place set aside for tiie payment of 
 interest and the amortisation of the said loans, in accordance with 
 the agreements entered into with the lenders. 
 
 Article XXIV. 
 
 At the mouths of the Congo there shall be founded, either at the 
 initiation of the riverside Powers, or by the intervention of the 
 International Commission, a quarantine establishment, which shall 
 exercise control over the V( ssels entering and departing. 
 
 It shall be decided later on by the Powers, if any, and under 
 what conditions sanitary control shall be exercised over vessels 
 navigating the river. 
 
 Article XXV. 
 
 The provisions of the present Act of Navigation shall remain in 
 force during times of war. Consequently, the navigation of all 
 nations, neutral and belligerent, shall at all times be free for the 
 purposes of trade on the Congo, its branches, its aflSuents, and its
 
 454 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. mouths, as well as on the territorial waters fronting the mouths of 
 ^^^■''-^- the river. 
 
 Berlin. rpj^^ traffic shall likewise remain free, notwithstanding the state 
 of war, on its roads, its railways, its lakes, and its canals as men- 
 tioned in Articles XV. and XVI. 
 
 The only excepiion to this principle shall be in cases in connection 
 with the transport of articles intended for a belligerent, and held 
 in accordance with the law of nations to be contraband of wa-r. 
 
 All the woiks and establishments instituted in execution of the 
 present Act, particularly the offices of collection and their funds 
 the same as the staif permanently attached to the service of such 
 establishments, shall be treated as neutral, and shall be respected 
 and protected by the belligerents. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE ACT OF NAVIGATION OF IHE NIGER. 
 
 Article XXVI. 
 
 The navigation of the Niger, without excepting any of the 
 branches or issues, is and shall continue completely free for mer- 
 chant vessels of all nations, in cargo or ballast, conveying goods 
 or convej'ing passengers. It shall be conducted in accordance with 
 the provisions of the present Act of Navigation, and with the 
 regulations established in execution of the same Act. 
 
 In the exercise of thit navigation, the subjects and flag of every 
 nation shall be treated under all circumstances on a footing of 
 perfect equality, as well as in the direct navigation from the open 
 sea to the interior ports of the Niger, and vice versa, as for grand 
 and petty-coasting, and in boat and riverwork throughout its 
 course. 
 
 Consequently throughout the length and mouths of the Niger 
 there shall be no distinction between the subjects of the riverside 
 states and those of states not bordering on the river, and there 
 shall be conceded no exclusive privilege of navigation to any society 
 or corporation or any individual. 
 
 These provisions are recognised by the signatory Powers as 
 henceforth forming part of public international law. 
 
 Ariicle XXVII. 
 
 The navigation of the Niger shall not be subjected to any obstacle, 
 nor duty based only on the fact of the navigation.
 
 APPENDIX. 455 
 
 It shall jiot be subject to any duties for harbourage, stop- 1885. 
 pages, depots, breaking bulk, or putting into port through stress of ^^^- -*'• 
 weather. Berlin. 
 
 Throughout the length of the Niger vessels and goods passing 
 along the stream shall not be subject to any tran-;it dues, whatso- 
 ever may be their origin or destination. 
 
 There shall be established no sea nor river toll based on the sole 
 fact of navigation, nor any duty on the goods which happen to be 
 on board the ships ; only such taxes and dues shall be levied as 
 are of the nature of a payment for services rendered to the said 
 navigation. The tariffs of these taxes or dues shall admit of no 
 diflerential treatment. 
 
 • Article XXVIII. 
 
 The aflfiuents of the Niger shall in every respect be subject to 
 the same regulations as the river of which they are the tributaries. 
 
 Article XXIX. 
 
 Eoads, railways, or lateral canals, which shall be established 
 with the special object of supplementing the innavigability or 
 other imperfections of the waterway, in certain sections of the 
 course of the Niger, its affluents, its branches, and its issues, shall 
 be considered in their capacity of means of communication as 
 dependencies of the river, and shall be similarly open to the traflSc 
 of all nations. 
 
 As on the river there shall be levied on the roads, railways, and 
 canals, only such tolls as are calculated on the expenses of con- 
 struction, maintenance, and administration, and on the profits due 
 to the promoters. 
 
 In the assessment of these tolls, foreigners and the inhabitants 
 of the respective territories shall be treated on a footing of per- 
 fect equality. 
 
 Article XXX. 
 
 Great Britain undertakes to apply the principles of freedom of navi- 
 gation enunciated in Articles XXVI., XXVII., XXVIII., XXIX., 
 to so much of the waters of the Niger and its affluents, branches, 
 and issues, as are or shall be under her sovereignty or protectorate. 
 
 The regulations she will draw up for the safety and control of 
 the navigation shall be designed to facilitate as much as possible 
 the passage of merchant shipping.
 
 Berlin. 
 
 456 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. It is understood that nothing in the engagements thus accepted 
 
 Feb. 2G. glials be interpreted as hindering likely or to hinder Great Britain 
 from making any regulations whatever as to the navigation which 
 sliall not be contrary to the spirit of such engagements. 
 
 Great Biitain undei takes to protect foreign trader.^ of every 
 nation engaged in commerce in tbose parts of the course of the 
 Niger which are or ishall be under her sovereignty or protectorate, 
 as if they were her own subjects, pi ovided that such traders con- 
 form to the regulations which are or shall be established in accoid- 
 ance with the foregoing. 
 
 Article XXXI. 
 
 France accepts under the same reservations and in identical 
 terms the obligations set forth in the preceding Article, so iar as 
 they apply to the waters of the Niger, its affluents, branches, and 
 issues, which are or shall be under her sovereignty or protectorate. 
 
 Article XXXII. 
 
 Each of the other signatory Powers similarly undertake that 
 they will similarly act in such cases as they exercise or may here- 
 after exercise rights of sovereignty or protectorate in any part of 
 the Niger, its affluents, branches, or issues. 
 
 Article XXXIII. 
 
 The provisions of the present Act of Navigation shall remain in 
 force during times of war. Consequently the navigation of all 
 nations, neutral or belligerent, shall at all times be free for the 
 purposes of trade on the Niger, its branches and affluents, its mouths 
 and issues, as well as on the territorial waters fronting the mouths 
 and issues of the river 
 
 The traffic shall likewise remain free notwithstanding the 
 state of V7ar, on its roads, its railways, and canals mentioned in 
 Article XXIX. 
 
 The only exception to this principle shall be in cases in con- 
 nection with the transport of articles intended for a belligerent 
 and held, in accordance with the law of nations, to be contraband 
 of war.
 
 APPENDIX. 457 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 DECLARATION RELATIVE TO THE ESSENTIAL CONDITIONS FOR NEW AN- 
 NEXATIONS ON THE AFRICAN CONTINENT TO BE CONSIDERED 
 EFFECTIVE. 
 
 Article XXXIV. 
 
 The Power which in future takes possession of a territory on 1885. 
 the coasts of the African continent situated outside its actual pos- ^^^- ^*^- 
 session, or which, having none there, has first acquired them, and ^*^^''"- 
 the Power whicli assumes a protectorate, shall accompany either 
 act by a notification addressed to the other Powers signatory to 
 the present Act, so as to enable them to protest against the same 
 if there exist any grounds for their doing so. 
 
 Article XXXV. 
 
 The Powers signatory to the present Act recognise the obliga- 
 tion to ensure in the territories occupied by them on the coasts of 
 the African continent, the existence of an adequate authority to 
 enforce respect for acquired rights, and for freedom of trade and 
 transit wherever stipulated. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 GENERAL PROVISIONS. 
 
 Article XXXVI. 
 
 The Powers signatory to the present general Act reserve to 
 themselves the right of eventually, by mutual agreement, intro- 
 ducing therein modifications or improvements the utility of which 
 has been shown by experience. 
 
 Article XXXVII. 
 
 The Powers who may not have signed the present Act shall 
 accept its provisions by a separate Act. 
 
 The adhesion of each Power shall be notified in the usual diplo- 
 matic manner to the Government of the German Empire, and by it 
 to those of all the signatory and adherent States. 
 
 The adhesion shall imply the full right of acceptance of all the 
 obligations, and admission to all the advantages stipulated for in 
 the present general Act.
 
 458 
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 1885. 
 Beb. 26. 
 
 Berlin. 
 
 Article XXXVIII. 
 
 The present general Act shall be aatified with as short a delay- 
 as possible, and in no case shall that delay exceed a year. 
 
 It i-hall come into force for each Power on the date of its ratifi- 
 cation by that Power. 
 
 Meanwhile the Powers signatory to the present Act bind them- 
 selves to adopt no measure that shall be contrary to the provisions 
 of the said Act. 
 
 Eacli Power shall send its ratification to the Government of the 
 German Empire, which nndeitakes to ratily the same to all the 
 signatory Powers of the present general Act. 
 
 The ratifications of all the Powers shall remain deposited in the 
 archives of the Government of the German Empire. When all the 
 ratifications shall have been produced, a deed of deposit shall be 
 drawn up in a protocol which shall be signed by the Eepresenta- 
 tives of all the Powers that have taken part in the Beilin Confer- 
 ence, and of it a certified copy shall be sent to each of all those 
 Powers. 
 
 In consideration of which, the respective Plenipotentiaries have 
 signed the present general Act and hereto affixed their seals. 
 
 Done at Berlin, the twenty- sixth day of the month of February, 
 one thousand eiglit hundred and eightv-five. 
 
 DISTANCE AND TIME-TABLE from Banana Point to Stanley Falls. 
 
 From Banana I'oint at the, 
 sea to Ponta da Lenha. ) 
 
 Ponta da Lenha to boma 
 
 Boijia to Mussuko . . 
 
 Mussuko to NokW . . 
 
 Nokki to Vivi . . . 
 Vivi to Leopoldville, over-t 
 
 land ] 
 
 Leopoldville to Kimpoko . 
 
 Camp 
 
 Camp 
 
 Mswata Station .... 
 
 Mswata to Kwamouth Sta-i 
 
 tion I 
 
 Camp 
 
 Camp 
 
 Bolobo Station . . . 
 
 Bolobo to Ungende . 
 
 Ciimp 
 
 Camp 
 
 Lukolcla Station . 
 
 Luknlela Station to De- 
 serted Village . . . 
 Ngomb(i Station . . . 
 
 Usindi 
 
 Irebu 
 
 Camp 
 
 Equati;r Station . 
 
 Onrriid forward . . 
 
 110 
 235 
 
 121 
 
 "tto" 
 
 Up- 
 
 H. M. 
 
 3 30 
 
 3 45!f ' " 
 1 15 I 
 
 94 94 
 
 9 I 
 10 V14 
 
 10 
 2 30 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 1 30 
 
 8 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 6 45 
 1 15 
 
 10 
 10 45 
 
 243 45 
 
 tauce in 
 
 Knglisb 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Brought forward . . ''70 
 l> quator Station to Camp . 
 
 Uraiiga 
 
 Camp . . 
 
 Camp 
 
 Bolombo ! • • 
 
 Bangala Station.Central Iboko 122 
 
 Camp I 
 
 Camp • • 
 
 Camp .. 
 
 Camp • • 
 
 Camp I • • 
 
 Camp I • • 
 
 Rubnnga, or Upoto Station 208 
 
 >ew Kubunga . . . . | •• 
 
 Camp " 
 
 Ci'mp I •• 
 
 Uiunda ! •• 
 
 lower Yambinga . . • 
 Old Yahilima .... I ^^ 
 
 Yambiingu ! " • 
 
 Busaka ' • • 
 
 Barun I '.^ 
 
 Basoko I '"^ 
 
 Ciimp ] ■ • 
 
 Camp I " 
 
 Gimp •• 
 
 Camp " 
 
 Camp at mouth ofCbofu . 
 
 Stanley Falls Station . . 142 
 
 '!otal 1413 
 
 243 45 
 10 (J 
 
 Up. 
 
 7 
 10 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 
 4 20 
 
 2 30 
 8 < 
 
 10 
 
 6 25 
 
 3 50 
 8 10 
 8 15 
 8 
 8 
 
 7 15 
 10 
 10 
 10 
 10 CI 
 10 45 
 
 5 15 
 
 Lown. 
 H. u. 
 
 14 5 
 
 17 
 
 486 264 15
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Abed bin Salem, slave trader, ii. 144 
 Aborigines, study of tlie, i. 313, 314 ; ideas 
 
 of barter among, i. 463 
 Accident to Lieut. Braconnier, i. 316 
 Accidents few, i. 226 
 Accusation, unjust, against tbe expedition 
 
 at Mali ma, i. 299 
 Actes de Navigation, ii. 396, 307 
 Adage, error of an old, i. 198 
 Adamoli, Signor, i. 35 
 Adansonia, i. 355 ; ii. 354 
 Aden, i. 51 
 Advice for the tropics, ii. 323 ; inattention 
 
 to health, ii. 320, 321 
 Africa, climate wrongly abused, i. 66 ; 
 
 climate of, ii. 281 ; crossing, i. 59 ; 
 
 Europeans in, ii. 238 ; past isolation of 
 
 equatorial, ii. 372 ; reclaimable, ii. 373 ; 
 
 stations on the east coast, i. 35, 36 ; 
 
 unjust abuse of, ii. 252 
 African and European life, ii. 238, 239 
 Association Ints-rnational, ii. 259 ; 
 
 fiist expedition of, i. 39 
 
 chiefs, absurd grandeur of, i. 291, 305 
 
 • climate, abuse of, ii. 284. 298 
 
 • dialects not understood among the 
 
 staff, i. 196 
 gardens, what may be grown in, ii. 
 
 258 
 
 hill scenes, loneliness of, i. 95 
 
 International Association, i. 38 ; ii. 
 
 363 ; its foundation, i. 33 
 life, delusions regarding, ii. 241, 242 ; 
 
 life, conditions of enjoyment of, ii. 248- 
 
 250 
 produce : table of value in Liverpool, 
 
 ii. 368, 369 
 
 society, the German, ii. 387 
 
 sunshine, i. 94, 95 
 
 Trading Company : see Afrikaansche 
 
 Handels-Vereeuiging. 
 Africans, incapable oi" acting in unison, 
 
 ii. 87 
 Afrikaansche Handels-Venootschap, i. 29, 
 
 38, 51, 72, 450 
 
 Afrikaansclie Handels-Verceniging, i. 29; 
 
 otters free conveyance and accommoda- 
 tion, i. 35; 38, 51", 72, 156 
 Agricultural prospects, i. 158, 391, 393, 
 
 412, 414 
 Ague, ii. 328 
 "A. L A." steam launch, i. 477, 484, 501 ; 
 
 ii. 57, 59, 116 
 Ajakkas invade Congo, i. 11, 12 
 Albert Mount (Camemons), ii. 231 
 Albion, the ss., i. 28, 38, 39, 49, 57, 63, 61, 
 
 67, 79, 83, 88, 91, 103-105, 107, 108 
 Alfonso. King, i. 35 
 Alima Kiver, i. 233 
 Allard, Dr., i. 202, 228 ; his services, ii. 
 
 270, 271 
 Alliances, difficulty of forming, i. 388 
 Aloes, ii. 354 
 Amazon Kiver, i. 86 ; comparison to the, L 
 
 401 ; ii. 9 
 Ambacca, i. 454. 
 
 Ambussi capital of Congo-land, i. H 
 Ambeze, see Ambassi 
 Ambrizette River, i. 17 
 Ambush at BoIoIjo, ii. 58 
 Amelot, Mnns., ii. 51, 56 
 America, i. 28 
 Amomum, ii. 358 
 "Amour-propre^' on the Congo, ii. 240, 
 
 276 
 Anchorage at Banana Point, i. 64 
 Anglo- Portuguese treaty, ii. 381-384 
 Angola, i. 14 ; Governor?-General of, i. 
 
 453 ; boundaries of, i. 455 
 Animal life, i. 176 
 Animals, domestic, i. 394 
 Anderson, Captain, i. 239, 258, 264, 268, 
 
 284, 478, 481 ; ii. 52, 264 ; his services, 
 
 256, 257 
 
 Mr. (English Foreign Office), ii. 395 
 
 Ankoli, a guide, i. 415, 421, 424, 425, 429. 
 
 433, 441 
 Antelope, i. 176, 509 ; skins, ii. 354 
 Anzichana, literally people of the interior, 
 
 i. 3
 
 460 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Aiizichi, liter.iUy " Inland," i. 3 
 
 Arabs. — camp uf slaves, ii. 145 ; character- 
 istics, i. 4U ; dhows, employment of, i. 
 48 ; incidents of slave-trading, ii. 169 ; 
 slave-traders, ii. 124, 133 ; cunning of, 
 ii. 154; on the Congo, ii. 139; over- 
 taken, i'. 142 ; stations to be avoided, i. 
 40; trailing communities, ii. 360, 363 
 
 Arabs takeu down river, ii. 168 
 
 Arachis hypogea, ii. 353 
 
 Area drained by rivers, ii. 348 ; by navi- 
 gable water, ii. 3G6 
 
 Ariel, H.M.S. i. 86 (note) 
 
 Arniament of an expedition, i. 47 
 
 Armed followers of Ngalyema, i. 362, 363, 
 365 
 
 Armlets, i. 428 
 
 Arntz, Professor, on treaties, ii. 380 
 
 "Artful dodgers," ii. 246, 247 
 
 Artliington mission, i. 496 
 
 Articles for barter and trade, i. 156, 157 
 
 included in the stores, i. 285 
 
 Aruwimi Kiver, ii. 115 
 
 Assistant chief, qualifications of an, i. 466 
 
 Assistants, disappointing, ii. 244-246; 
 successful, ii 245 
 
 "Association International du Congo," its 
 objects, i. 51, 52 ; sovereignty ceded to 
 the, ii. 225 
 
 Austro-Hungarian committee, i. 36 
 
 Avarice of aborigines, i. 46 
 
 Axle tree, a rotten, i. 316 
 
 Ba-bangi tribe, the, i. 295 
 
 Babari tribe, i. 506 
 
 Babwende territory, i. 30 
 
 Bacillus Malarix, ii. 319 
 
 " Bad spirits in the woods," i. 223, 224 
 
 Bagamoyo, i. 40, 45, 48 
 
 Bagt-nyu tribe, ii. 360 
 
 Baggage of Europeans, i. 285 
 
 Bahamba tribe, ii. 170 ; villages, ii. 113 
 
 Bahunga tribe, ii. 122, 151, 170; marau- 
 ders, ii. 133, 134, 137 
 
 Bakanga tribt', ii. 38 
 
 Baker, ISir Samuel, ii. 358 
 
 Bakonde tribe, ii. 360 
 
 Bakongo, i. 137, 148, 220 ; ii. 209; traders, 
 jealousy of, i. 309 ; ivory traders, i. 321 
 
 Baknos tribe, ii. 360 
 
 Bakumira, ii. 345 
 
 Bakumu tribe, ii. 360 
 
 Balegga tribe, ii. 360 
 
 Balluy, M., i. 231 ; ii. 185, 395 
 
 Balui, ii. 43 ; pirates, ii. 68, 69, 70 ; river, 
 ii. 70, 345 
 
 Balunda tribe, ii. 360 
 
 Biinjarungu tribe, ii. 360 
 
 Bambarri', i. 43 
 
 Bamtumu or Wambundu, i. 323 
 
 Bamu Island, i. 389, H95, 396, 505 
 
 Banana, i. 75, 76, 79, 81, 83, 87, 92 ; ii. 310, 
 319, 320, 310 
 
 Banana Creek, i. 77, 85, 109, 116; ii. 228, 
 
 282, 468 
 
 garden, a, i. 500 
 
 groves, i. 432, 518; ii. 99, 1.36, 193 
 
 Point, i. 29, 31,59, 62-64, 71, 91, 105, 
 
 108, 14y 
 Bananas, ii. 24G, 357 
 Bantunu tribe, i. 406, 505 
 Bangala. tribe, ii. 21, 24, 25, 44, 56, 76, 79, 
 
 80-83, 85, 172 ; justice, ii. 176 
 Bangweolo, ii. 340; lake, ii. 358, 359 : see 
 
 also Lake Beraba. • 
 Bankruptcy of Congo merchants, i. 50 
 Bankwa of Kinshassa, i. 375 
 Banning, Mons., ii. 394 
 Banquet at Vivi, i. 153, 154 
 Banunu tribe, i. 518 
 Banyema tribe, ii. 360 
 Banza, a village, i. 161 ; Chibweta, i. 165; 
 
 Kimpuiizu, i. 162, 163; Kinle'le', i. 165; 
 
 Kulu, i. 135, 161, 163, 165; ii. 215; 
 
 Lungu, i. 161, 162, 165; Manteka, ii. 
 
 214, 299, 303; Mbuba, ii. 207; Mgan- 
 
 gila, i. 165; Nkosi, ii. 215; Sombo, i. 
 
 161, 163; Uvana, i. It.l, 162, 165, 197, 
 
 198, 199; Vivi, i. 129, 133 
 Baobab.--, i. 355, 504 ; ii. 5 
 Baptist missionaries, i. 225 ; missions, i. 
 
 496; at San Salvador, i. 13; Missionary 
 
 Society, i. 13; school, native children at 
 
 the, ii. 208 
 Barga, ss. i. 29, 67 
 B.irgaining in Cungo-land, i. 137 
 Barometer variations, ii. 331 
 Barrack life ami Congo life, ii. 265 
 Barter among aborigines, i. 463 ; and trade, 
 
 articles for African, i. 156, 157 
 Bartering, i. 374, 383, 384, 444, 500 ; ii. 15, 
 
 16, 83 
 Barth, Dr., the explorer, ii. 385 
 
 description of the Shari River, ii. 131 
 
 Barua tribe, ii. 360 ; villages, ii. 113 
 
 Barumba tribe, ii. 170 
 
 Basaka fishing hamlets, ii. 113 
 
 Basazza people, i. 429 
 
 Busoko or Busongo, ii. 115, 119; spears, ii. 
 
 356 
 Basokos, a fine people, ii. 123 
 Hasongo : see Basoko. 
 Bastian, Dr., the German traveller, i. 13, 
 
 34; ii. 387 
 Basundi, i. 73 
 
 Baswa Falls, ii. 359; fishermen, ii. 134 
 Bateke, i. 73, 137, 148, 513; ii. 28; tribe, 
 
 i. 295, 407 ; ivory traders, i. 294 ; sign 
 
 of " not guiltv," i. 373 ; ivory trade 
 
 of the, i. 384 
 Baths, advice about, ii. 326, 329 
 Batuki tribe, ii. 38, 43, 71 
 Bavrnnga, ii. 345 
 Bayneston, i. 253; ii. 298; hill, i. 254, 
 
 255 
 Bays of Lake Leopold, i. 437
 
 -INDEX. 
 
 461 
 
 Bazombo traders, jealousy of, i. 309 ; ivory 
 
 traders, i. 321 
 Beads as currency, ii. 101, 102 
 Beamout, M. Bouthchier de, i. 35 
 Beans, ii. 243, 357 
 
 Bed of tlie Coiiso, survey of the, i. 402 
 " Beef and beer," Burton's advice, ii. 294, 
 
 296 
 Beer, ii. 242, 282, 294, 295 ; of Mantu, i. 
 
 512 
 Beeswax, ii. 354 
 
 Behaini, Martin de, tiie explorer, i. 1 
 Belgarde, the Abhe, i. 16 
 Belgian officers, i. 239; military officers, 
 ii. 259 ; colony, Congo-land not a, i. 54 ; 
 enterprise, ii. 388 
 Belgique, La, ss., i. 68, 83, 91, 103, 104, 
 107, 121. 144, 145, 149, 152, 196, 208, 
 469 
 Beliiiqus Creek, i. 145 
 Belgium, i. 26, 28 ; tne first to establish a 
 national committee, i. 33; foimatioii ot 
 its International Committee, i. 34, 35 
 Bemba, Lake, i. 8 
 
 Benevolence, a valuable virtue, ii. 166 
 Bengo River, i. 454 
 Benguella, i. 456 
 
 Benin, Biglit of, ii. 231 ; river, ii. 234 
 Bentley, Mr., i. 250 
 Benzani Congo, a chief, i. 130, 161 
 Bere, another name for Welle River 
 Beri Mount, ii. 211 
 Berlin Congo Conference, ii. 391-403 
 Beverage wanted, a, ii. 323 
 Biaugala, i. 518; ii. 57 
 Bin Kassim, Sultan, i. 43 
 Binnie, a Scotch engineer, ii. 165, 272, 427, 
 
 275, 276 
 Birds, i. 207, 417, 419, 436 ; ii. 6, 8 ; im- 
 mense flocks of. ii. 17 ; feathers, ii. 354 
 Bisa plateau, ii. 361 
 Bismarck, Prince, ii. 384, 386, 387, 388, 
 
 389, 3'.»0, 393, 396, 399, 402, 403, 407 
 Biverre River, i. 70, 514 ; ii. 129, 130-132, 
 170, 349; identical with the Welle, ii. 
 130 
 Bliick babies, our "fondness" for, i. 299 
 " Blackman's ])ot," i. 101 
 Black's, Mr. Wm., novels, 1. 401 
 Black Point, ii. 22H 
 
 rivers, ii. 77, 359 
 
 Blandy, Mr., of Madeira, i. 153, 154 
 Blankets, ii. 324 
 
 Block house at Le'opoldville, i. 375, 376 
 Bloeme, Mr. de, i. 32, 73 ; ii. 395 
 Blood-brotiierhood, i. 30, 306, 385 ; ii. 23, 
 38, 48, 68, 79, 86, 89, 90, 104, 132, 171, 
 177 
 Blood-money, i. 525, 527 
 Bloodshed, reasons against, i. 523, 524 
 Boleko of Bangala, ii. 80, 82, 83 
 Bolobo, i. 102, 507, 515-519, 521; ii. 2, 4, 
 26, 50, 52, 288 ; serious disturbances at, 
 
 i. 521 ; assembly of chiefs, i. 528 ; centre 
 
 of ivory trade, ii. 2 ; frugal chiefs at, ii. 
 
 2; departure of a flotilla from, ii. 3; 
 
 burning of, ii. 56 ; in arms, ii. 57, 58 ; 
 
 second burning of, ii. 183 
 Bolombo, ii. 79 
 Boma, i. 30, 31, 74, 86-89, 91-93, 96, 102, 
 
 103, 105, 109, 113. 116, 132, 133, 143-145, 
 
 156, 168, 171, 513 ; ii. 287, 298, 310, 319, 
 
 341 ; a zareeba, i. 46; its history, i. 96- 
 
 101 ; protectorate at, ii. 225; s-anatorium 
 
 at, ii. 228; hospital at, ii. 271 
 Bombax, ii. 5, 30 
 Bondeh village, ii. 126 
 Bonny River, ii. 234 
 Borneo, ii. 379 
 
 Bossi missionary station, ii. 185 
 Boundaries of Congo Free State, ii. 401 ; 
 
 of territories, ii. 400, 401 
 Braconnicr, Lieut., i. 243, 253, 258, 273, 
 
 276,279,286,316 
 Brandy, ii. 252, 254 
 Brass collars, i. 297, 428 
 rods as currency, i. 294, 374, 384, 488, 
 
 524: ii. 22, 28, 44, 52, 62, 64, 84, 102, 
 
 243 
 Brazils, shipment of slaves to Ihe, i. 14 
 Brazza, Le Comte Savorgiian de, i. 292, 
 
 231-234; ii. 385 
 Bread, native, i. 431 
 Breadth of tiie Congo, i. 89 
 Bridge making, i. 226 
 Bridges, — across the Bundi, i. 186; Bula 
 
 River, i. 187 ; Luendu, i. 187 ; Lulu, i, 
 
 187; across the Nkusu, i. 154, 186; de- 
 stroyed, i. 4-18; Loa, i. 201; Nkusu, 
 
 223 ; Lukuluzi River, i. 312 ; Inkissi, 
 
 i. 316; Utuvu, i. 318 
 British Expedition of 1816 : see Tuckey's 
 
 Exiaedition. 
 cruisers and the slave-trade, ]. 451 ; 
 
 officers, ii. 273 
 
 Government, action of the, ii. 380 
 
 ■ • exploration, ii. 385 
 
 Bronchitis, li. 327 
 
 Brotherhood-blood ; see Blood-brotherliood. 
 
 Broyon, Mons., i. 39, •lO 
 
 Bruce, James, ii. 385 ; definitions of ht at, 
 
 ii. 313 
 Brush circles, i. 356 
 Brussels, i. 25 ; meeting at the palace, 26 ; 
 
 Conference, i. 33, 36 
 Buclmer, ii. 387 
 Buffalo, i. 395 ; river, i. 212 ; Soudi killed 
 
 by a, i. 253; skins, ii. 354; and lion 
 
 fright, ii. 51 
 Buffaloes, i. 176, 177, 509 ; ii. 8, 241 
 Buguku of Ubuma, i. 18; son of Gankabi, 
 
 i. 422 . 
 Buka Island, i. 110 
 Buka'a, i. 315 
 Bula River, i. 180,223, 224, 229; bridge 
 
 across the, i. 187
 
 462 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 " Bula Matari " (Breaker of Rocks), i. 148, 
 109, 231, 382, 383 ; and Makoko, i. 328- 
 331 ; first use of the name, i. 237 ; recon- 
 ciled to Ngalyeina, i. 313 ; dealings with 
 Ngalyema, i. 357 ; welcome from Go- 
 bila, i. 507 ; acts as peacemaker, ii. 26, 
 27 ; and Stanley, difference between, ii. 
 28 ; and Mata liwyki, ii. 89, 90 
 
 Bula-mbemba Point, i. G5, 81 
 
 Bulangungu, i. 477 
 
 BumVja, ii. 101 
 
 Biindi, the, i. IGl. 179, 180 ; river, i. 172- 
 175, 192, 207, 213, 220, 221, 322. 403; 
 bridge across the, i. 186 ; valley, i. 186 ; 
 forest, i. 192 ; camp, i. 227 
 
 Bunga Kiver, ii. 66; district, ii. 170 : fee 
 also Isanga. 
 
 Bungata, ii. 32, 37 ; district, ii. 176 
 
 Bunsen, Dr. George Von, i. 34 
 
 Burial, custom, ii. 184 ; place of Tm-key's 
 
 , officers, i. 1 1 1 
 
 Burns; Mr. Spencer, ii. 212, 225, 273, 274 
 
 Burnt Rocks or Montes Quemadros, i. 17 
 
 Burroughs and Welcome (London), ii. 325 
 
 Biuton^ Captain R. F., i. 102 ; ii. 385 
 
 Buruld River, another name for the Ikel- 
 
 , eraba, q.v. 
 
 a town, ii. 33 
 
 Burying a war, ii. 45 
 
 Busanga Island, ii. 153 
 
 Busch, Dr., ii. 402, 407 
 
 Bush Fences, around camps, i. 46 
 
 Butter, ii. 321 
 
 Butunu, ii. 19,21,23 
 
 Bwa-bwa Njali, the Chief, 290, 291, 292, 
 303, 304, 377, 378 ; ii. 53 
 
 By-yanzi, i. 137, 148; ii. 1, 11, 13; ivory 
 sellers, i. 296 ; tribe, the, i. 295 ; love of 
 grandeur, i. 527 
 
 Cabbage, ii. 357 
 
 Cabo Lombo boundary, ii. 401 
 
 Cadiz, i. 468 
 
 Cafe best for breakfast, ii. 321 
 
 Caillie Rene, ii. 385 
 
 Calamities at Le'opoldville, i. 486, 487 
 
 Calamus Indicm, i. 516; ii. 5, 6, 92, 354 
 
 Calavanga Islet, i. 115, 120, 126, 128 
 
 Calcite, ii. 214 
 
 CJallewart, Mens., rumoured murder of, i. 
 488 
 
 Cam, Diego, i. 1, 9, 14 
 
 Cambier, Lieutenant, i. 39 
 
 Cameron, ii. 3»5 
 
 Cameroons Mountains, ii. 231 
 
 Camoens' reference to the Zaire, i. 2, 103 
 
 Camp, native, i. 174 
 
 Camps, bush fences nround. i. 46 
 
 Camwood powder, i. 384 ; ii. 48, 356 
 
 " Candle-berry " tree, ii. 358 
 
 Cannibalism charged against the expedi- 
 tion, 1. 375 
 
 Cano(s price of a i. 43; wreck of a, ii. 49 
 
 Canoes, dragging overland, i. 190 ; towing 
 native, i. 416; speed attained by native, 
 ii. IH ; kept subm. r ed, ii. 85 ; at villages, 
 number of, ii. 109; war, ii. 114. 115; au 
 enormous flotilla of, ii. 136, 137 ; stand- 
 ing on end, ii. 139, 141 
 
 Canoe-wrights of Wenya, ii. 160 
 
 Cao, Diego, the explorer, see Cam 
 
 Caoutchouc plant, ii. 92, 97 
 
 C<ii)es, Lopez, i. 73 ; Palmas, i. 78 ; S. Juan, 
 ii. 231 
 
 Capital sub.scribjd fur the expedition, i. 26, 
 27_ 
 
 Captives taken by slavers, ii. 148 
 
 Capuchin E.\pedition, the, i. 4 ; chronicle, 
 i. 9 ; monks in Congo-land, i. 16 
 
 Caravans at native markets, i. 282 ; between 
 stations, i. 385 
 
 Caravanserai at Pallaballa, ii. 218 
 
 Cargoes of ocean steamers, i. 92 
 
 C.irter and Cadenhead, massacre of, i, 216 
 
 Cashew, the, ii. 358 
 
 Cassava, ii. 243, 357 ; bread, i. 374 ; plan- 
 tations, i. 414; decomposing, ii. 81 
 
 Castle Hill at Vivi, i. 115, 117-120, 123- 
 127 ; ii. 257 
 
 Castor oil, ii. .353 
 
 Casualties during a year, i. 241; in the 
 expedition, i. 283 
 
 Catarrhs, ii. 327 
 
 Catfish, ii. 160 
 
 Cattle, ii. 361 
 
 Cemetery at LJaiana, i, 75, 76 
 
 Ceremony of Blood-brotherhood, ii. 24 : see 
 also Blood-brotherhood. 
 
 Chambezi, ii. 340 ; described by Living- 
 stone, ii, 362 ; river, identical with the 
 Congo, i. 8, 358 ; region, extent of, ii. 
 361 ; its character, ii. 362 
 
 Character of the natives, i. 29, 30 
 
 Cheese, ii. 324 
 
 Cliibale mountains, the, i 8 ; ii. 340, 361, 
 362 
 
 Chief, a jealous, i. 522, 533 ; a brutal, i. 
 218-220 ; a Herculean, ii. 85 ; of Stan- 
 ley Falls Station, ii. 165 
 
 Chiefs. — of Congo, i. 17; in an expedition, 
 i. 48 ; on thu tast coast, tiie obstructive, i. 
 40,41,43; subsidised, i. 54; of Vivi, i. 
 129, 130. 142; of Nsanda, meeting of 
 the, i. 164-170; jurisdicti.m of, i. 295; 
 military strength of, i. 350; tn aties 
 with, i. 473-477 ; power of native, i. 508, 
 509 ; of Bolobo, assembly of, i. 528; wealtii 
 of native, ii. 2, 3; frugal, ii. 2 ; (native) 
 farewell at Le'opoldville, ii. 191 ; forms 
 of treaties with native, ii. 195-197, 20."), 
 206 ; (native) and districts, list of, ii. 
 198-204 
 
 Chigoes, i. 214 
 
 Chikombo, i. 46 
 
 Chikwanga (Cassava-bread \ ii. 10, 11 
 
 Chili pepper and tears, ii. 40
 
 INDEX. 
 
 463 
 
 Cliills, dangers of, ii. 286, 287, 296, 297, 
 
 30y, 324, 327, 329 
 Chilungu, i. 475 
 China, the ss. i. 455, 456, 460 
 Chinsalla, i. 139, 161; creek, i. 110; 
 
 plateau, i. 127; village, i. 119, 123, 124 
 Chioiizo district, i. Ii5, 161, 163, 166; 
 
 plateau, i. 120, 125, 126 
 Chofu River, ii. 153 
 Christianity, conversion of the Congo king 
 
 to, i. 11 
 Christmas Day at Iboko, ii. 173; presents, 
 
 i. 374 
 Chrit tuplierson, Albert, Danish sailor, i. 71, 
 
 107, 208, 224, 238, 239, 258, 264, 268, 
 
 275, 347, 414, 449 ; his services, ii. 255, 
 
 256 
 Chronicle of the Capuchin expedition, i. 9 
 Chroniclers, unreliability of the old, i. 5 
 Chumbiri, i. 514, 515; ii. 5, 26 
 Chunyu, i. 45 
 Civilisation, absence of conveniences of, ii. 
 
 239 
 Clapperton, ii. 385 
 Clarence Cove, ii. 231 
 Cliffy Point, i. 487 
 Climate, abuse of the African, i. 66 ; ii. 
 
 284, 298 ; and conduct, ii. 220, 221 ; of 
 
 Africa, ii. 280 ; of Upper Congo regions, 
 
 ii. 289 
 Clotli markets, ii. 177 
 payments in, i. 193 ; station stores of, 
 
 i. 284 
 Clothes in Africa, European old, i. 130, 
 
 131 
 Clothing in the tropics, i. 65 ; ii. 326 
 Coal-trade, the, i. 74 
 Coa-<t, the, at the mouth of the Congo, i. 
 
 61. 62 
 Cocoa as a beverage, ii. 322 
 Coffee, ii. 375 : as a beverage, ii. 322 ; 
 
 shipped at Benguella, i. 456 
 Cognac, ii. 242, 308 ; dangers of the ]^)etit 
 
 verre, i. 66 
 Cola nuts, i. 384 
 Cold and heat, influence of, ii. 293, 294 
 
 in ConiTO-land, ii. 314, 315 
 
 camp, i. 212 
 
 water, dangers of drinking, ii. 315, 
 
 317 
 winds, i. 264 ; ii. 298 ; on the river, 
 
 ii. 172 
 Coldest spot ill the country, i. 210 
 " Colds," African, ii. 286 
 Collars of brass wire, i. 297 
 Coloured men and Europeans, relative 
 
 numbers of, i. 285 
 Comber, Mr. T. J. (Baptist Missionary), i. 
 
 17, 445, 496 
 Comblaiiie rifles, i. 47 
 Comite of the Association, i. 29, 37, 38, 114, 
 
 150, 195, 225, 226,448 ; aims of the, i. 30, 
 
 31, 38; its resolutions and instructions. 
 
 i. 26-28 ; meetings at Brussels, i. 26-28 ; 
 its objects, i. 50 ; change of name, i. 51 ; 
 indiscreet disclosures of the, i. 55, 56 ; 
 d Etudes du Hant Congo, its formation, 
 i. 2ti ; ii. 259 ; Internationale Associa- 
 tion du Congo, ii. 259 ; report to, i. 462 
 
 Commerce in the Congo basin, i. 30, 31 ; 
 in ground nuts, ii. 215 ; free on the 
 Congo, ii. 390, 393 
 
 Commercial expeditions, character of, i. 
 24, 25 ; travellers, i. 210, 214 
 
 Committees, national, i. 35, 36 
 
 Commonwealth of stations, i. 54 
 
 Commune, Mons del, ii. 225 
 
 Communities, ancient, i. 316 
 
 Communication between stations, i. 285 
 
 Compeigne, M. de, i. 231 ; ii. 385 
 
 Compensation for murder, i. 525, 527 
 
 Complaints from the stuff, i. 70, 71 
 
 Conditions of enjoyment of African life, ii. 
 248-250 
 
 Confederation at Leopoldville, i. 495 ; of 
 natives, i. 53 
 
 Conference at Berlin, ii. 391 
 
 Conf. rences, native fomlness for, i. 167 
 
 Congo and Central African Company, i.76, 
 92 
 
 Canon, ii. 210; atmosphere of the, i. 
 
 241 
 
 Free State, not a Belgian Colony, 
 
 i. 54 ; building the Free State, ii. 378 ; 
 Free State territory, ii. 365 ; Free State 
 boundaries, ii. 401 
 
 Congo la Lemba, i. 179 ; ii. 217 ; hills, i. 
 162 
 
 Congo-land. erroneous names in, i. 3; begin- 
 ning of the history of, i. 9 ; subdivided 
 into dominions, i. 10; mission in, i. 11, 
 13, 16; Ihe slave-trade, i. 14; proper, 
 extent and boundaries, i, 11 ; boundaries 
 of, i. 17; essentiality of fi-eemen for work 
 in, i. 62 ; native customs not to be changed, 
 i. 53, 54 ; business intercourse in, i. 53 ; 
 subdivisions of power in, i. 17-19; the 
 king of, breaks the allegiance to the 
 Portuguese, i. 12; elders, i. 17; national 
 flag of, i. 17; Totela, King of, i. 17 
 
 Congo liiver, i. 20, 77 ; altitude at Stanley 
 Falls, ii. 343 ; beginning the ascent, i. 
 79 ; barren of classic associations, i. 101 ; 
 breadth of the, i. 89; force and sound- 
 ings, i. Ill ; the Brussels proposals, i. 26, 
 27; Caraoens' reference to the, i. 103; 
 commerce on the. i. 58; currents, i. 114, 
 115, 117, 249; chiefs, i. 17; proposal for 
 negotiations witii chiefs, i. 52 ; Christian 
 missions on the, i. 58 ; compared to other 
 rivers, i. 401 ; course of the, li. 343, 344 ; 
 described by a Capuchin father, i. 4 ; 
 discovery of llie moutli, i. 1,9: districts 
 ;iuil their native chiefs, lisi of, ii. 198-204; 
 divisionsof the, ii. 340 ; exped'tion, i.24; 
 exploiation, how to utilise, i 24 ; i'ac-
 
 464 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 tories, i. 63, 64 ; Father IMeroUa's de- 
 scription of tlie. i. 4 ; the highway of the, 
 1. 24 : historically witiiout fame, i. 102 ; 
 Islands, i. 110, 249, 515, 516; ii. 14. 30, 
 38, 65, 97 ; jottings for pilots ou the, i. 
 403-405 ; large steamers ou the, ii. 7-9 ; 
 length, ii. 339 ; lengtti of its tributaries, 
 ii. 347 ; Lopez's extraordinary descrip- 
 tion of the Lower, i. 3 ; (Lower), de- 
 scription of, i. 80 ; (Lower), extent of, ii. 
 340 ; merchants, character of, i. 32 ; mis- 
 Dionaries on the, i. 496 ; the mouth of 
 the, i. 61-63, 80, 81 : navig^ition. i. 85, 
 86. 113, 114, 116; ii. 339, 340, 346 ; no 
 distinctive native name for the, i. 202 ; 
 old names of the, i. 1, 2 ; Purchas's de- 
 scription of the, i. 4, 5 ; rise and fall, i. 
 87; ships f.)r the, ii. 367 ; soundings at 
 Vivi, i. 128, 129 ; soundings or the river, 
 i. 402; steamers for the, ii. 367; tides on 
 the, i. 87 ; tributaries, ii. 344, 352: Tuc- 
 key's description of the, i. 5, 6; valley 
 of the Lower, i. 62; villages, ii. 45; 
 volume of the river, i. 86, 87, 402, 403 ; 
 ii, 132 ; work on the, ii. 252 ; (Upper) 
 first steamer on, i. 375 ; formation of the 
 expedition, i. 394; expedition (1883), i. 
 501 ; trader.'?, ii. 21, 22, 23 ; extent of, ii. 
 340 ; basin, ii. 348 ; products of the region, 
 ii. 352-3.38 
 
 Congo life v. Barrack life, ii. 265 
 
 basin, table of our actual knowledge 
 
 of the, ii. 364 ; political divisions of the, 
 ii. 365 ; development of the, ii. 374 
 
 scenery, i. 92-94, 111, 112, 124- 
 
 126, 171-173, 175, 176, 179-184. 243- 
 247, 250, 255, 256, 258, 262, 264, 324, 
 325, 389-391, 3.6, 397, 399-401, 504, 
 505, 511-513, 515, 516; ii. 8, 9, 11, 17, 
 45,67,77, 79,91-93, 152 
 
 Congoese shi'ewdness in trade, i. 137 
 
 Conical huts, ii. 126, 127 
 
 Constantine, the Grand Duke. i. 35 
 
 Contracts, character of, i. 31, 32 
 
 Conveniences of civilisation absent, ii. 
 239 
 
 Convention, delimitation, ii. 400 
 
 Con' eying stores, 155, 182, 210, 211, 214 
 
 Copper, ii. 356, 357, 375 
 
 Co()uilhat, Lieut., ii. b8. 71, 76, £0, 177, 
 178. 264. 267, 289 
 
 Cordior, Capitaine, i. 475 
 
 Cost of the flotilla of the Expedition, i. 68 ; 
 of negotiations at Ntamo, i. 310 
 
 Costume, natives in gorgeous, i. 364 
 
 Cotton, growtii of, ii. 358 
 
 Cottonwood, i. 430 
 
 Countries represented at Brussels in 1878, 
 i. 26, 28 
 
 Country, a rich, ii. 97 
 
 Cowries, as currency, ii. 102 
 
 Creek Town ' Old Calabar), ii. 233 
 
 Crocodile Creek, i. 101 
 
 Crocodiles, i. 209, 398, 436 ; ii. 2, 6, 8, 18 ; 
 
 chased by, i. 245 ; their numbers, i. 262 ; 
 
 Isle of, i. 110 
 Cross River (Calabar), ii. 232 
 Crudgiugton, Mr., i. 250 
 Cucumbers : see Vegetables. 
 Cultivable soil, ii. 213 
 Currency, articles of native, 1. 193 ; brass 
 
 rods as, i. 294, 374, 384, 488, 524; ii. 
 
 22, 28, 44. 52, 62, 64, 84, 102, 243 ; beads 
 
 as, ii. 101, 102; change of, at Langa- 
 
 Langa, ii. 101 ; cowries as, ii. 102 
 Currents of the Congo, i. 114, 115, 117, 
 
 249 
 Customs difficulty at Sierra Leone, i. 57 
 
 Daily Telegraph and New York Herald 
 
 Expedition, i. 8, 58 
 Daly, Judge, New York, i. 36 
 Dance, a fierce, i. 265, 266 ; an eccentric, 
 
 i. 296 
 Danckelman, Dr., ii. 313 ; observations, ii. 
 
 310, 311, 330-334 
 Danube, comparison to t'.ie, ii. 9 
 Dapper, the Dutch Geographer, i. 12 
 "Dark Continent," the, i. 20, 22, 189 
 Dar Salaam port, i. 44 
 Date palms, ii. 5 
 Daumas, Beraud, & Co., i. 76 
 Dead, saluting the, i. 75 
 Dealing, prospective results of fair, i. 53 
 Deaiies, Mr., i. 15.', 210 
 Death, from sickness, ii. 290 ; native views 
 
 of, i. 392 ; causes of, ii. 306-309; during 
 
 a year, i. 241 ; occurring in the cold 
 
 season, i. 288 
 Deauville, i. 23 
 De Barras, the explorer, i. 2 
 Decauville radwav, laving a, ii. 223 
 De Courcel, Baron, ii. *388, 389, 390, 407 
 De'-de'-de', chief of N.sanda, i. 116, 118, 
 
 133, 138, 1(J4. 166-168, 172, 180 
 Defence of river banks, a curious, ii. 135 
 Defensive measures at a station, i. 376 
 De Launav, Count, ii. 394, 403 
 Delbriik, Herr, i. 34 
 Delimitation Convention, ii. 400 
 Delusions as to African life, 241, 242 
 Denham, ii. 385 
 
 Depopulation through slavery, i. 96, 97 
 Desolation, an eftect of war, i. 173 
 De Soto, the navigator, ii. 374 
 Destrain. Lieut., ii. 225, 277 
 Dews to be guarded against, ii. 324 
 Diamond Rock, i. 112, 113 
 Diary form of narrative, advantages of, i. 
 
 386 
 Diegos Bay, i. 63 
 Dieppe, i. 23 
 
 Dinner, a factory, i. 72, 73; a first, ii. 283 
 D'sappearaucc of two men, mysterious, i. 
 
 370 
 Disappointing assistants, ii. 244, 245
 
 INDEX, 
 
 465 
 
 Disasters at Kimpoko, ii. 5G ; at Kwa- 
 
 innuth. ii. 55 
 T)i.-,cii)line on Portuguese ships, laxity of, 
 
 i. 458, 4G0 
 Discovery, a shocking!:, ii. 142 
 of Lake Leopold, i. 434, 435, 43G ; of 
 
 tlie mouth of the Congo, i. 1 
 Discussion at the Berlin Conferenc?, ii. 394 
 Discussions among Europeans, danger of, 
 
 i. 47 
 Dishonesty of the natives, i. 304 
 Distance accomplished in a year, i. 241 
 between Vivi and Isan;>ila, i. 189; 
 
 traversed 'o the Biyerrc, ii. 134 
 D.stricis and their native chiefs, list of, 
 
 ii. 198-204: 
 Distuibances M'ith natives, cause of, i. 15G 
 Divers (bird), i. 397, 43G; ii. G 
 Division of Stanley Pool, ii. 2tj3 
 Diva village, ii. 98 
 Doctors, insufficient Imowledge of climate, 
 
 ii. 318, 319, 321 
 Dogs ii. 2 
 
 Dom Pedro, King of Congo, i. 17 
 Donkeys, Teneriffe, i. 225 
 Dover Cliffs, i. 324, 325, :i9G, 505 
 Down the stream, going, ii. 1G8 
 Dragon flies, 1. 419 
 Dr.iper Islands, i. 82. 84 
 Draughts, cold, ii. 305; dangers of, ii. 285, 
 
 28G, 29G, 327 
 Drees Frederic, ii. 27G 
 Dr II. a life's, ii. 2GG 
 Drink, ii. 282, 283, 291, 295, 322; in the 
 
 tropics, i. G5-67 ; on tlie Lower ( ongo, 
 
 i. 193,194; temptations to, i. 84 ; effects 
 
 of, ii. 251, 252-254 
 Drowned, a native boy, i. 289 
 Drov\ning ca>es, i. 48G; ii. 55 
 ■Dings for the tropics, ii. 325, 327 
 Drunibird, the. i. 207 
 Drum signals, curious, ii. 158 
 Dual la, i. 273, 274, 27G, 30G, 307 ; ii. 39-42, 
 
 55. 04 
 Ducks, i. 417 
 Dudoma, i. 4G 
 
 Duke Town (Old Cakb.ir). ii. 2."2 
 Dust film on L.ike Leopold, i. 434 
 Dutalis, Lieut., i. 41, 43-45 
 Dutch concejition of comfort, i. 7G; fr.cto- 
 
 ri( s, i. G4 ; hoes. i. 201 
 " Dutch House," the, i. 72 
 
 liouses, i. 75, IG ; hospitality at. i. 84 
 
 merchants, bankiuptcy of, i. 5() 
 
 ■ structures, supeiiority of, i. 83, 84 
 
 Dutrieux, M., i. 42, 43 
 
 Duty, strict performance of, i. 152; the 
 
 calls of, i. 22 
 Duveyrier, the explorer, ii. 385 
 D.\ sentery, i. 207 ; ii. 307, 328 
 
 Parly writers on Congo-land, their igno- 
 lauce, i. 3 
 
 Vol. II.— 30 
 
 East India Company, ii. 379 
 
 Edwin Arnold River, i. 287, 403 
 
 Eela, wife of Kibibi, i. 370, 421, 422 
 
 Egrets, i. 417 
 
 KhtU Guineensis, i. 74 ; ii. 5, 342, 352 
 
 Elders of Congo, i. 17 
 
 Ele]diants, i. 170, 177, 395. 509 ; ii. 8, 241, 
 355, 356; sw'imming, i. 213 
 
 El iott. Captain J. G., i. 470, 471, 47G; 
 ii. 225 
 
 Elobey Island (Corisco Bay), ii. 231 
 
 Embo-End>o, i. 41G 
 
 Emigrant, questions bv an, ii. 312, 313 
 
 Ell Avant, ss.. i. 08-70; 88, 104, 133, 134, 
 144, 145, 154, 190, 19G, 209, 211, 220, 
 22G, 227, 230, 4G9 : ii. 12, 19, 29, 33-35, 
 57, 58, 60, 87, 105, IIG, 137. 142,233; 
 in ru^t, i. 483; on Stanley Pool, i. 398, 
 sqq.; on the Kwa Iviver, i. 410; under 
 rejiair, i. 2G1, 501 
 
 Englaiul, i. 26, 28; and Portugal, treafv 
 fur suppression of the slave-trade, i. 15; 
 cause of withdrawal horn the Associa- 
 tion, i. 3G ; diffjculties which kei)t it aloof 
 from the Association, i. 34 ; pedestiiau 
 exercise in, i. 23 
 
 English factory at Boma. i. 92 
 
 Euje'li. son of "JSIgalyema, i. 30G, 382, 383; 
 ii. 191 
 
 Equatorial Africa, past isolation of, ii. 372 ; 
 the heart of, i. 514 
 
 Equator, missioimries at the. i. 496 ; stati m, 
 ii. 38, 39, 76. 177, 180, 182, 267, 289, 320 ; 
 comfort at, ii. 70, 71-73 
 
 Equipment of a station, ii. 243 ; of the Ex- 
 pedition, i, 29, 41, 42 
 
 Errors in names of Congo-land, i. 2, 3 
 
 Escapes from drowniii'j:, i. 487 
 
 K^pemnce, ss., i. G8. S3, li'4, 113, 114, 116, 
 
 Ennihjptnx^ Ihe, i. 103, 151 
 
 Etiphurhia, i. 158 ; ii. 353 
 
 Euphrates, comparison to the. i. 401 
 
 Europe, arrival in (1878), i. 20 
 
 European and African life, ii. 238, 239 
 
 European assistants, i. 144 
 
 Europeans and colouied men, relative num- 
 bers of, i. 285 
 
 Europeans, arrival of, at Le'onoldville, 1. 
 445; arrival of young, 282; finding 
 deliLiht in African life, i 248; frigid 
 towards natives,!. 248, 517; health of, 
 152; in Africa, ii. 238; inconvenience of 
 having too many, i. 225, 226 ; indolence 
 of, ii. 219, 224; at the tn.p;cs, i. 85; 
 lesson to, from nature, li. 216; not to bn 
 encouraged in discussion, i. 47; required 
 in Congo-land, (lass of. i. 25 ; to be 
 isolated, i. 47; why thev succumb, i. 224 
 
 Exorcise, best hours for. ii. 3:^6 
 
 Exhibition at LeopoKlville, i. 379, 381 
 
 Exp dition, African Associaiion's first, i. 
 3.) ; French, i. 159 ; instructions for an 
 Eastern, i. 39 et seq. ; lost in the bush
 
 466 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 nn, i. 382 ; number of its oITicprs, i. 67 ; 
 Daily Telegraph and New York Herald, 
 i. 8; stores, ii. 76; strength of the, i. 
 378 ; t!tf , charged as being mysterious, 
 i. 55 ; the present, i. 24 ; considering its 
 character, i. 24 ; its funds, i. 26, 27 ; its 
 origin, i. 21 ; the tirit meeting, i. 26. 27; 
 the f^ecoud International, i. 44 ; to Kwihi- 
 Niadi, i. 470, 471, 474, 476 ; ii. 212 ; 
 to the Congo, i. 1-7 ; to the Upper Congo, 
 start of the, 1. 394 ; (1883) to the Upper 
 Congo, its strength, i. 503; to the Upper 
 Congo, stores for the, i. 501, 5ii2 
 
 Expeditions, equipment for, i. 41, 42 
 
 E.xploration, a slow, i. 233 ; by Great 
 Britain, ii. 385; in Africa, ii. 373; of 
 the Kwa Kiver, i. 409-416; on the 
 Congo, class of men required for, i. 58 
 
 Exports of Boina, i. 98 
 
 txpusure fo heat or cold, ii. 315; to niglit 
 air, ii. 283-285, 308 ; to wet, ii, 285 
 
 Face-scarring an ornnment, ii. 100, 101 
 Factories at B mri, i. 91 ; at B 'uny, ii. 231: ; 
 
 at Elobey Island, ii. 231 ; at Gaboon, ii. 
 
 231; at Ivi.ssanga, i. 81, 82; at Mussuko, 
 
 i. 112; at Port i da Lenlia, i. 82, 83; at 
 
 Nokld, i. 113; barter at, i. 85; for the 
 
 Upper Congo, ii. 36 J; na'ive trade at, i. 
 
 55 ; on the Congo, i. 63, 64 
 Factory, coloured help at a, i. 73 ; a dinner 
 
 at a, i. 72, 73 ; managers, i. 73 ; stores, 
 
 i. 74, 75; work at a, i. 74 
 Fair dealing with the natives, i. 170 
 Faithful officers, ii. 255-279 
 Famine, a sham, ii. 16, 129; at Bulombo, 
 
 ii. 79 
 Fantail, ii. 6 
 
 Fares from Loan;la to Lisbon,!. 445 
 Fnrquliar Islands, i. 82 
 Fathomless Toint, i. 81 
 Feathers of tropic birds, 11. 354 
 Fi-rnandez. Senor, i. 15 5 
 Fernando Po, ii. 231, 232 
 Ferry at Nselo, ii. 193; Ko-ido, ii. 214; 
 
 on Lunibamba River, i. 28S ; on the 
 
 Gordo;i Bennett, i. 290 ; traffic at Nsaugn, 
 
 i. 479 
 Ferry, M., Jules, ii. 388 
 Feriying, dangi'rous, ii. J57 
 Kcrtflo Imd, i.'LSfj 
 
 Fetisli, i. 2(10 ; customs, i. 385 ; rock, i. 89. 90 
 Fetishism, i. 305 ; ii. Ill 
 Fever, i. 444, 445; at Manvanga, i. 271, 
 
 272 
 Fevers, ii. 283, 284, 283-288, 296, 301, 
 
 310, 322, 328 
 Fibres, ii. 354 
 Firttn, ii. 92 
 
 Fiddler's Elbow, i. 112 
 Figliting, — at Bolobo, effects of, 60 ; not to 
 
 be ra.slily begun, i. 46; power of chiefs 
 
 i. 350 
 
 Fine, a heavy, i. 472, 473 
 
 Finery of chiefs, i. 202 
 
 Fines for bloodshed, i. 524 
 
 Fiote law, i. 220 
 
 Firejlij, H M.S., i. 86 (note) 
 
 Firt-.", annual, i. 316; destructive of vege- 
 tation, i. 94, 180, 197 
 
 Fi^ii, ii. 2, 243 ; presents of, ii. 160 ; smoke 
 cared, ii. 159 
 
 Fish-eagles, i. 397, 436 : ii. 6 
 
 Fishermen, i. 256; at Manyanga, i. 267; 
 Baswa, ii. 154; Wtnya, ii. 154; Yakui, 
 ii. 125; on Lake Leopold, i. 438, 439, 
 440; on the Lukanga, ii. 46; Wane' 
 Rukura, ii. 154 
 
 Fisher tribes, 154-15.') 
 
 Fishing hamle:s, h. 113; minnow, i. 262; 
 nets, natives makinu', ii. 159 ; "Weuya 
 metiiod of, ii. 157, 158 
 
 Flag, employment of the Association's, i. 
 495 ; import.iiiee of a recognised, i. 37, 
 38; national, of Congo, i. 17; of the 
 Association, i. 3'!, ii. 42 ; the choice ot a, 
 i. 35 
 
 Flamingoes, ii. 6 
 
 Flamini, Francesco, meclianician, i. 68, 152, 
 238, 2 .9, 244, 284, 381 ; his services, ii. 
 259 
 
 Flaudni Island, i. 253, 254 
 
 Flannels, wet, ii. 284, 2S5, 310 
 
 Flood, possible, nt lianana, i. 78 ; precau- 
 tions against, i. 83 
 
 Flotilla of steamers, the expedition, i. 68; 
 its cost, i. 68 
 
 Fcig^ to be guarded against, ii. 324 
 
 Food, abundant, i. 257 ; consumption of, i. 
 221 ; for a voyage, ii. 76 : for tlie tropics, 
 the best, ii. 294; influence of, on work, 
 i. 154: in the tropics, i. 65, 199, ii. 321, 
 322, 323, 324, 329 ; on the Congo, i. 103 : 
 on the Upper Congo, ii. 10, 15: qnau- 
 tity consumed daily, ii. 13; scant at 
 IMfwa, i. 295 : se;ireity of, i. 436, sqq. ; 
 tcarcity at Leopoldviile, i. 480; supply 
 stojjped, i. 302, 303; want of variety, i. 
 211 
 
 Foraging, free, i. 222 
 
 Forest, a dense, ii. 13; a submerged, i. 
 443; at Lukolel'. ii. 66, 67; cutting 
 through the, i. 221; Lami L;inkori, i. 
 390; lo;-t in an vnioxplored. i. 177, 192; 
 ii. 30, 91, 92, 93, 97. 98, 114, 215, 341, 
 353, 374; scenery, ii. 5; of the Lower 
 Congo, i. 88, 89 ; seen from the coa&t, i. 
 62 
 
 Fortifying villages,!. 524 
 
 Fowls^ ii. 24< ; as food, ii. 10 
 
 France, i. 26-28; action of, ii. 381-390; 
 n<x cement of the Assoc'ation with, ii. 
 388; territories of, ii. 4(10, 403, 404 
 
 Fiankiucense, ii. 354, 374 
 
 Franktown, i. 476 
 
 Free coauuuice on the Congo, ii, 390-993
 
 INDEX. 
 
 467 
 
 Freemen, ia Congo-land, essentiality of, 
 
 1. 52 
 Free State territory, ii. 3G5 
 Free State not a Belgian colony, i. 51 ; Free 
 
 State bonndaries, ii. 401 
 Freucli. — Catholic Mission at Boraa, 1. TOO ; 
 
 expedition,!. 15i»; flag-, Malameen's, i. 
 
 292 ; Missions in Congo-laud, i. IG ; teni- 
 
 tory, ii. 3G5 ; compel the -witlidrawal 
 
 of the Portuguese, i. 14 ; traders, i. 02 ; 
 
 treaty with Makoko, i. 2'J2 
 Freve, Sir Bartle, i. 36 
 Fruit eating, ii. 32G, :-^27. 329 
 Fruits, i, U)3, 148, 151, 152, 381, 393; ii. 
 
 71, 258, 357 
 Fuel, scarcity on the Kwa, i. 423, 428 
 Fumu Ntaba, Chief of Batekc, i. 507, 508, 
 
 509, 510 
 Furs, ii. 375 
 Fyue, Loch, in SeoUand, i. 400 
 
 Gaboon, ii. 230; factories, ii. 231 ; mis- 
 sions, ii. 231 
 
 Gad-flies, i. 214, 419 
 
 Gamaukouo, Chief of Malima, i. 295-300, 
 380 
 
 Gambielc, Chief of Kimpoko, i. 298, 50G ; 
 ii. 5G 
 
 Game, i. 205, 206, 213, 222 
 
 Gampa, a rival of Bwa-bwa Njali's, i. 308 
 
 Ganchu, i. 304, 306, 381, 406, 4o7, 490 ; ii. 
 191 
 
 Ganclm's Point, i. 408 
 
 Gandelav, a Banfunu chief, i. 405, 406, 
 407, 5i0 
 
 Ganges, comparison to the, i. 401 
 
 Gankabi, Qu* en of Musye', i. 415, 417, 418, 
 421, 422, 424-426, 433, 445; ii. 27 
 
 Gantienc, i. 507 
 
 Ganto village, i. 430 
 
 Gardening, season for, i. 381 
 
 Gardens, making, i. 379, 4(i9, 500 
 
 Gardens, ii. 245 ; at Equator, ii. 71 ; at 
 Leopoldville, ii. 52 ; at Vivi, laying out, 
 i. 147, 148 ; what may be grown iu Cen- 
 tral African, ii. 258 
 
 Garrison, imporiauce of a, i. 121 
 
 Garrisons of stations, i. 2S5 
 
 Gastric fever, i. 213 
 
 Gatula, a B.-lobo chief, i. 516, 517, 521, 
 524, 525, 52G, 527 ; ii. 3 
 
 Geographical expeditions inadequate, i. 
 24 
 
 Geology, ii. 209-211, 214; at Lake Man- 
 tumbu, ii. 47-48 
 
 German Expedition, 1873-75, i. 418; ex- 
 ploration, ii. 386, 387 
 
 Germany, 1. 26; action of, ii. 381, 381; 
 formation of a National Committee, i. 31 ; 
 lectures in, ii. 399 
 
 Giagas. invasion : see Ajakkas. 
 
 Gibraltnr, i. 52, 58 
 
 Gillis, Mr. Albert (Duke Town), ii. 233 
 
 Gin, ii. 251, 252, 282, 307 ; used as cur- 
 rency, i. 193 
 
 Gin-drinking natives, i. 202 
 
 Ginper, wild, ii. 358 
 
 Giraffe, ii. 241 
 
 Giral, a Frencli quartermaster, i. 408 
 
 Glasgow Cliamber of Commerce, ii. 383 
 
 Glave, Mr., ii. G6, 183, 288 
 
 Glover, Sir John, i. 57. 58 
 
 Goats, ii. 243 
 
 Goat-skins, ii. 354 
 
 Gobila, Paiia, Chief of JMswntu, i. 405, 408, 
 409, 414,507, 510, 511; ii. 14 
 
 Gold, ii. 357, 375 
 
 Goldsmith, Sir Frederick, ii. 187 
 
 Gong, the signal of the, i. 340 
 
 Goods for inland trade, superior quahtj' 
 required, i. 311 
 
 "Good View Station," i. 505 
 
 Gordon Bennett Kiver, i., 290, 293, 3!)0, 
 403 ; ii. 53 
 
 Gordon, General, letter from, ii. 226 (note) ; 
 i:)romised aid of, ii. 225, 226 
 
 Goree, i. 57 
 
 Government of tiie Free State, ii. 406, 407 
 
 Giandy's, Lieut., E.spedition, i. 13 
 
 Grang, Lieut., i. 382, 478, 481, 488, 489 ; 
 ii. 269 
 
 Granville, Earl, ii. 381 
 
 Grass burning, i. 118, 180. 197 
 
 density of, i. Iti3 ; Ik ight of the, i. 
 
 197; tropical, ii. 301, 302; used as aiu- 
 bushments, i. 161 
 
 Grave, the first at Lc'opoldville, ii. 270 
 
 Gray, Mr., i. 73 
 
 Green snakes, i. 205 
 
 Giefuli;e, Mons., i. 43, 45, 49 
 
 "Grog," importance ot, i. 193; native 
 fondness for, i. 149 
 
 Ground-hog, i. 205 
 
 Ground nuis, i. 156, 414 ; ii. 353 ; in com- 
 merce, ii. 215, 342 
 
 Groves or trees a sign of villages, i. 62, 315 
 
 Guava, ii. 246 
 
 Guiacum, ii. 30, 67 
 
 Guibourtia, ii. 353 
 
 Guides, i., 164, 171, 181, 182, 184, 410; 
 ii. 3, 28, 69, 153 
 
 Guiltlessness, curious wav of showing, i. 
 373 
 
 Guinea-fowl, ii. 8 
 
 Gum-copal, ii. 342, 353, 355 ; trees, ii. 97, 
 98 ; ii. 374 
 
 Gums, i. 384 ; ii. 30 
 
 Gunbearers, i. 47, 48 
 
 Guiqiowder, trade in. i. 75 ; used iu re- 
 joicing;, i. 373 
 
 (iurba Kiver, ii. 131 
 
 Guyot Abbe', a missionary, ii. 50, 268 ; 
 drowned, ii. 55 
 
 Habit and nature, i. 109 
 Hair, fashion of wearing, i. 429
 
 468 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Haniadi's slavery find cscnp?, i. 260 
 
 Haniisens, Capt., i. 382, 47<3, 477, 480, 518, 
 520; ii. H3(j, 188.191,225, 227, 264; his 
 service.^, ii. 260, 261 
 
 Havliourat Loimda, i. 451 
 
 Narkaicai/. the, 85, 468 
 
 llarou. Lieuteu.ut, i. 243, 253, 258, 279, 
 284, 408, 488 
 
 Haite-betst, i. 205, 206 
 
 Hathoine, Captaiu, i. 49 
 
 Hawks, i 411> 
 
 Head. prutCL'tion for the, ii. 318, 325 
 
 Heathiiiartors at Vivi, i. 149, 151 
 
 Heiltii at Boloho, ii. 184, 185; at Eqviator 
 Station, ii. 74; in the tropics, Dr. Mar- 
 tin's advice, ii. 329 
 
 Health-table of stations, ii. 306 
 
 Heat and cohl in Cont;o-hind,ii. 314, 315 ; 
 influence < f, ii. 293, 294 
 
 Heat, Br..ce"s definitions of, ii. 313; tro- 
 pical, ii. 282 
 
 Heliwa, a slave, ii. 73 
 
 Heniv VH. IJenss, Prince, i. 34 
 
 Herd" tracks, i. 177, 183, 201 
 
 Hiroii, tlie ss.. i. 474 
 
 Herzopr, Dr., i. 34 
 
 Henvel, Dr. Van den, ii. 53, 191 
 
 Hidrs, li. 375 
 
 Hiu'lihmd levels inhabited, ii. .303 
 
 Hills seen from the coast, i. 62 ; " solemn- 
 looking," i. 95 
 
 Hindi Saywa, i. 48 
 
 Hippopotami, i. 395, 396, 398, 417, 424; 
 ii. 2, 4, 6, 8, 241, 375; feeding ground, i. 
 90; sliooting, i. 106; teeth, ii. 354 
 
 Hiring men. i. 31 
 
 H .(lister, Mr., ii. 272 
 
 Holidavs, i. 153, 15 i 
 
 Holland, i. 26, 28 
 
 Holy Isle, a placo of sepulchre, i. 419 
 
 Homesicluiess, i. 225 
 
 Honucidal nfticer, a, ii. 55 
 
 Honey, ii. 364 
 
 Honour of work, ii. 278, 279 
 
 Hop JJitters, ii. 318 
 
 Hopkins, Caiitain, H.^l. Consul, i. 98 
 
 Horses, the Isle of, i. 12 
 
 llosjiitable mi.ssion of a station, i. 37 
 
 Ho-pital at Hnina. ii. 271 
 
 Hospilalitv dangers of coast, ii. 282, 28.'] 
 
 Ho..itiiges left at Ntamo, i. 3U9, 310 
 
 Hostile natives, i. 432, 442, 514 ; ii. 4, 11, 
 36, 78, 111, 113 
 
 Hostility, nia.sked, i. .337 ; native, at Ma- 
 lima and Mfwa, i. 300 
 
 House, advice for building a, ii. 323 
 
 Hou.ses at Vivi. in:i|iping s'trs for, i. 147 ; 
 means of defence for, i. 280 
 
 Hnard Point, i. 65, 77 
 
 Hudson Uiver, comparison to, i. 101 
 
 Hutchinson, ^Irs. Margaret, i. 9 
 
 Huts, conical, li. 126, 127; formation of 
 native, ii. 103 
 
 Hulzf^ldt, Count, ii. 394 
 
 Hvilrobromic acid in ca^es of fever, 1. 272 
 
 273, 274 
 Hijphcene guineensis, i. 516 
 Hypochondria, ii. 241 
 
 Ibaka. Chief of Bolobo, i. 518 ; hisforv of, 
 
 i. 519. 520,521; 522, 524, 525,527; ii. 
 
 1, 15, 26, 29, 57, 60, 61, 64, 65 
 Ibanza, ii. 105 ; a chief of Upoto, ii. 171 ; 
 
 the dr. aded, ii. 62, 881 
 Ibari River, another name for the Kwa, 
 
 i. 412 
 Ibingi, ii. 47 
 Ibis, li. 6, 8 
 Iboko, ii. 24. 25, 43, 44, 69, 79, et seq., 173- 
 
 175, 178-180, 353, 354 
 danger at, ii. 87 ; swordsmiths, ii. 
 
 356 
 Ibunda, ii. 103 
 
 Ichimpi district, i. 115, 121, 161, 163 
 Idleness of natives, i. 393 
 Idols, native, i. 199 
 Ifwe, Chief of Muleke, i. 429 
 Ignorance of African ciimate, ii. 281, 
 
 284 
 Iguana skin girdles, ii. Ill 
 Iguanas, ii. 2 
 Ikassa, ii. 103, 170 
 Ikelemba River, ii. 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 
 
 37 ; ii. 77, 78, 344 
 Ikenge, a chief, ii. 72 
 Ikeiigo, ii. 29, 30 
 Ikingi, ii. 98 
 Ikiraism, ii. Ill 
 Ikoko, ii. 47 
 lkid)i River, ii. 65 
 Ikulu village, ii. 12, 47 
 Iineine, ii. 96 
 Impali viJl ige, i. 428 
 Impango, at Gaboon, ii. 230 
 Impila, i. 292 
 Imports of Boma, i. 98 
 Indemnity I'or war, ii. 61 
 Indian corn, i. 381 
 India-rubber, ii. 355 ; plant, i. 192 ; ii. 6, 
 
 342, 353, 367, 375 
 Indolence of ihe natives, i. 193 
 Indn.s. foni])arison to tlie, i. 4t)l 
 Indu.<try, the bi)ir!t of, i. 142 
 Inebriety of natives, i. 315 
 Inga, i. 173, 175, 176, 177, 179; cataract.?, 
 
 i. ICO. 227; peak, i. 353,396; plateau, i. 
 
 173, 221 
 Inganda, ii. 30-33, 38-42 
 Ingham, Mr. and Mrs., ii. 212, 213, 355 
 Ingvn. Chief of ftlfwa, i. 295, 307 
 Inkissi, ii. 192 ; Falls ii. 211 ; river, i. 288, 
 
 316, 317. 403, 478; ii. 193 
 Inkissism, ii. Ill 
 
 Instructions for eastern ixpcdilions, i. 45 
 Instructions framed at Brussels, i. 27, 
 
 28
 
 INDEX. 
 
 401) 
 
 Intcmpcrnncc, ii. 282, 283, 291, 305, 306, 
 307, 308, 311, 311). 322, 321) 
 
 Iiitfiiiatioiiul African A.><soniation, ii. 259 
 
 Intoiiuitioiial Association, i. 37, 38 ; its 
 objects, i. 40 ; its treaties, i. 18 ; financial 
 position, i. 3.1 
 
 "International Atsociation Africainc," its 
 pnrpose, i. 50 
 
 International Association's work at Boraa, 
 i. 1(11 
 
 International cohesion, ii. 379 ; coinniis- 
 sioii, ii. 4UG; Expedition, tlie secunJ, i. 
 44 
 
 Intoxicant?, abuse of, ii. 251, 252, 253, 
 254 
 
 Irebu, ii. 21, 22, 23, 24. 25, 2G, 38, 42, 43, 
 44, 45, 09, 3.")4 ; swordsniith.<, ii. 350 ; 
 warriors, ii. 10 
 
 Irinj^i, ii. 98", 171 
 
 Iron, ii. 350; houses of native chiefs at 
 C.ilabar, ii. 233; luannfaetuies of Yalu- 
 linia, i. Ill; ktores, i. 147; works of 
 U\ira, ii 304 
 
 Ironstone, ii. 07 ; at Lake M aitumba, ii. 
 47, 48 
 
 Irrawaddy, comparison to the, i. 401 
 
 Irnngu, ii. 127, 132 
 
 Isanga Kiver, ii. 315 
 
 Isangi town, ii. 10.) 
 
 Isangila, i. 155, 100, 105, 107, 171, 175, 
 181, 182, 184, 185, ISO ; ii. 214, 215, 298, 
 339, 309. 373, 3.':;2, 440, 471, 474, 470, 
 478, 489, 513;' chiefs, i. 184, 185; 
 natives, i. 237 ; cuinp at, i. 239 ; con- 
 veying wagons ai.d stoies to, i. 240 : 
 staff at, i. 242 ; stores at, i. 242 ; sceneiy 
 at, i. 243, 2 14; clearing the camp, i 
 248 ; founding a station at, i, 283 ; gar- 
 rison at, i. 285; cataract, i. 181, 184; 
 falls, i. 229 
 
 Islands of the Congo, i. 110, 249, 389, 515, 
 510; ii. 14, 30, 38, 05, 97, 153 
 
 Islands uninhabitable, i. S2 
 
 Isombo, ii. 125 
 
 Itaka, ii. 152 
 
 Itawa, Eastern, ii. 302 
 
 Itiniba village, i. 510 
 
 Itimhiri River, ii. 10.', 110, 112, 131, 345, 
 352 
 
 Itumba, i. 518 
 
 Itumbi, i. 40; ii. 57, CO, 01 
 
 Itsc and Ngaiyema, idenlity of, i. 304 
 
 Ituuzinia lapids. i. 25-, 257 
 
 luka of Lukolela, ii. 14, 48, 08, 177 
 
 lunga, ii. 98 
 
 Ivory, ii. 304, 375; purchase of, i. 380; 
 sold by AVatwa, ii. 48; trade, the eentie 
 of tlie, ii. 2 ; trade at Laiiga-I>anga, 
 ii. 102; trade, Congo, ii. 3.")4. ;-i.55, :i50 ; 
 trade at Nganza, ii. 99 ; traders, IJaleke', 
 i. 294; traders, character of. i. 387; 
 traders, intrigues of. i. 319, 320, 321; 
 trading chiefs^ wealth of. i. 310, 311 ; 
 
 trading in, i. 383,384; tiading, suec* s.s 
 
 of Xgalyema through, i. 305 
 lyenzi. ii. 209 
 lyumbi, ii. 11, 12; mountain, i. 321, 322. 
 
 323,333,390; ii. 192,341 
 
 Jaggas, the, invasion : see Ajakk-as. 
 Janssen. Lieut., i. 283, 407, 4;H), 507 ; ii. 
 
 27, 50; drowned, ii. 55; his services, 
 
 ii. 208 
 Jafroplie purgans, ii. 3.;S 
 Jays, i. 207, 430 
 Jealousy of a chief, i. 522, 52.5 
 Jetta Waii, i. 45 
 Jeune A/ricaine, the launch, i. 08. 141, 
 
 190 
 Jiwe-la-Singa, i. 4.3, 40 
 Joao II.. King of Portugal, i. 1 
 Johnston, IMr. H. H., i.']02 
 Jolly Captain (ss. Kui^en.ho), ii. 233, 
 
 230 
 Journeys, time occupied in, i. 191 
 Jub River, i 58 
 Jung, letter to Mr. Albert, i. 29 
 Jungle, cutting through the, i. 221 
 
 Kabinda i. 14, 31 
 
 cask- makers, i. 74 
 
 Kubindas, i. 14ii, 149, 153, 15S, 159 
 
 KaiK-a Sanda, i 103 
 
 Kaiohandi, i. 103 
 
 IvHllina, Lieut., i. 485, 492 ; Poiut, i. 353, 
 
 395, 390, 487 
 Kalubu, i. 201 
 
 Kaluln Falls, lava at, ii 211 
 Kamolomh), a chief, i. 513 
 Kapita, a Vivi chief, i. 129 
 Karema, i. 42, 44; lake, i. 37; chief of 
 
 slave-stealers, ii. 144 
 Kasongo, ii. 300 ; falls, ii. 300 
 Kaston, Mr. John A., ii. 398, 400 
 Kawendi, ii. 303 
 Kcmeii Island. 418, 419 
 Kerdvck and Pincoft', Messrs., i. 31 
 Khaltan, i. 251 
 Khamis, Sergeant, i. 519, 523 
 Khonzo, i, 238 ; Ikulu Hill. i. 354 ; Plain, 
 
 i. 187 
 Kibonda, i. 260 
 
 Kiburuga, chief of s^ave-stealers, ii. 144 
 Kiki stieam, i. 322 
 Ki-Kongo. i. 142 
 Kilanga, i. 315 
 " ivilliiig tlie road," i. 314 
 Kilolo Point, i. 248. 249 
 Kimbangu, i. 393. 397, 405, 477; ii. 3, 
 
 302 ; chiefs, i. 388 
 Kimbanza Is and, i. 200. 261, 263 
 Kimbenza village, ii. 207 
 Kimpahimpa, a chief, i. 323, 332, 490 
 Kiini>unzu, i. 172 
 Kinipe. a chief, i. 490 
 Kinipemba, ii. 207
 
 470 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Kimpoko, i. 397, 477, 488; ii. 51, 302; 
 
 station, i. 504, 505, 50G ; troubles at, ii. 
 
 5G 
 Kiiidolo, i. 303, 397 
 King Leopokl II. : see Leopold. 
 Kiukanza, ii. "215 
 
 Kiuduta, i. 289 ; mountains, 1. 390 
 Kingani Kiver, i. 4i), 58 
 '.' Kingdom of the Congo," Tiqafetta's book, 
 
 i. 9' 
 Kingfishprs, i. 397 ; ii. 
 Kinkela Ndunga, a chief, i. 1C5 
 Kinkela-Nku, a chief, i. 105 
 Kinsemho .steamer, ii. 228 
 Kinsende', i. 318 
 Kinshassa, i. 250, 375, S82, 393, 397, 477, 
 
 405, 504 ; ii. 51, 185, 289, 302, 305, 319, 
 
 357 
 Kint.hassa chiefs, i. 388 
 Kinswangu, a chief, i. 490 
 Kintamn. i. 318, 340, 352, 375, 377, 3S2, 
 
 391, 392, 393, 397, 479, 486, 495, 498 : 
 
 ii. 20, 2tJ, 28, 29, 302; cataiart, i. 352, 
 
 389 ; chiefs, number of, i. 3::0 ; teething 
 
 the chief:^, i. 490 
 Kintari forest mount, i. 352 
 Kinzila, ii. 193 
 Kinzorc, i. 315 
 Kion/o plateau, ii. 21G 
 Kiikbright, Mr. John, i. 145, 159, 19l^ 
 
 209 
 Kirkhoven, Mens , ii. 225 
 Kissanga, i. 81, 82, 85 
 Kisungwa of Mklmbwete, i. 1G5 
 Kitabi, whites in distress at, i. 476 
 Kitalalo, 1. 4G 
 Kites, i. 207 
 
 Kiubi, a chief of Zinga, i. 315 
 Kiynnzi beer, i. 4(lS 
 Kizalu Hill, ii. 207 
 Kokoro, son of ftlata Bwyki, ii. 86, 173, 
 
 174 ; recognises his sun a thief, ii. 174 
 Kondo Ferry, ii. 214 
 
 Konko, an ivoiy trading chief, i. 370, 371 
 Kruboys, i. 31, 73 
 Krumaners, i. 31 
 
 Krupp gun, astoniihing the natives, ii. 63 
 Kubaba, i. 48 
 Kudu, i. 126, 206 
 Kulu, Banzi, i. 201 
 Kulu natives, i. 210 
 Kmia, i. 231 ; station, ii. 291 
 Kunzu Islam], i. 259, 2G0 
 Kusserow, Herr von, li. 41)7 
 Kutimipuku, i. 519 
 Kuvoko, i. 250 ; camp. i. 253 
 Kwa,ii.401; river, i. 409-416, 511 ; ii. 30, 
 
 50, 344 ; de>:cription of the river, i. 431, 
 
 432,433; diticient colours of tlie river, 
 
 i. 419 
 Kwamouth, ii. 185; .station, ii. 55, 50^ 
 Kwango lliver, another name for the Kwa, 
 
 i. 412 
 
 Kwanza River, i. 11, 12, 454 
 
 Kwilu-Niadi, i. 489; ii. 277; expedition -to 
 the, i. 470, 471, 474, 476 ; ii. 212 ; river, 
 i. 256, 257, 403; ii. 214, 225; Upper, i. 
 477 
 
 La BeJtjique, ss. : see Belgique. 
 
 Labour, advantage of human, ii. 93, 94 ; 
 
 heroes of, ii. 240 
 Lacustrine Kamoloudo River, ii. 3(j0 
 Lady Alice Rapids, i. 318 
 Lagos, ii. 236 
 Laird Macgregor, ii. 385 
 Lake Bangweolo, ii. 358, 359 
 Lake Leopold It., i. 70, 481, 501 ; ii. 27, 48 ; 
 circumnavigated, i. 443 ; description or, 
 i. 443, 444 ; di;iCovery of, i. 434, 4o5, 
 436 ; tishurmeu, i. 438. 439, 440 
 
 Lakes,— IMantundja, ii. 27, 46, 47. 314, 354 ; 
 Muta-Nzige, ii. 358; Tanganika, i. 7, 20, 
 35, 37, 40, 41, 43, 44, 46; ii. 359, 363 
 
 Lakes, native detinition of, ii. 27 
 
 Lama-Lankori, fonst ridge, i. 390; hill, 
 i. 351 
 
 Lamborel, Captain, i. 43 
 
 Land cultivated, i. 162; fertility of the. i. 
 186; ii. 211; instructions regarding the 
 purchase of, i. 27 ; higli rent for, i. J 38 
 
 Landana, ii. 229 
 
 Landers, ii. 385 
 
 Landolphia Florida, i. 192 : ii. 5, 353 
 1 Langa-Langa, d. 22, 69, 100, 353 ; women 
 of, li. 100 
 
 liangenburg. Prince Hohenlohe, ii. 399 
 
 La Plate, comparison to the, i. •lOl 
 
 Latrobe, Mr., »>f Baltimore, i. 3G 
 
 Lava at Kalulu Falls, ii. 211 
 
 Laws of the Bangola, ii. 179 
 
 Lawion-Lufini River, i. 509, 512, 513; ii. 
 345 
 
 Lectures on Africa, i. 25 : in Germanv, ii. 
 399 
 
 Leehumwa, i. 46 
 
 Lehrman, Mens., i. 471 ; ii. 212, 277 
 
 Lema, i. 393, 397 ; cliiefs, i. 388 
 
 Leopard skins, ii. 354 
 
 Le'upold II., King of the Belgians, i. 21, 
 22, 28, 33, 38, 39, 43 ; ii. 237, 402, ■*07 
 
 Lc'opold II. Lake: see Lake Leopold ; hill, 
 i. 354, 389, 391, 495, 496 ; ii. 189, 191 
 
 Leopold Kiver, ii. 359 
 
 Leopoldville. i. 149, 408, 442, 445. 469, 
 477. 488, 513; ii. 20, 38, 50, 51, 52, 53, 
 55, 56, .57, 73, 288, 289, 290, 298, 304, 
 305, 319. 339, 343, 357; founding of. 
 i. 357. 370; erecting a block house at, 
 i. 375, 376; built, i. 379; trading at, 
 i. 380, 383, 384; naming the station, i. 
 386 ; description of, i. 388, 38:> ; the 
 neighi ouring natives, i. 391; no food 
 at, i. 478, 479, 480 ; neglecteil state of, 
 i. 481, 482, 4b3; resignation of its chief, 
 i. 490; difficulty with natives at, i. 491,
 
 INDEX. 
 
 471 
 
 492, 493, 43 1 ; treaty with natives at, i. " 
 
 495 ; the entrepot oi the Upper Congo, 
 
 i. 498,500; markei, i. 500; liourishiiig, 
 
 ii. 186; a promising farewell at, ii. 189, 
 
 191 ; first grave at, li. 270 
 Lesseps, Count de, i. 35 
 Le Slanleij. stern-wljceler, ii. 225, 227 
 Letters, — from (Jeneial Saiiford, i. 30; to 
 
 Lieut Cambier from Stanley, i. 39 ; to 
 
 Captain Popeliii, i. 45 ; to Col. Straueli, i. 
 
 52, 151-153. 189-194; to tiic Comitii, i. 
 
 283 ; to the President of tl.e Comite, ii. 
 
 224 
 Lettuces : see Vegetables. 
 Levy Hills, the. ii. 11 
 Liberia, ii, 379-382 
 Liberty, the use of, i. 22, 23 
 Licentiousness, ii. 253 
 Liebrechts, Lieut., ii. 184, 277 ; ii. 288, 289 
 Life, the [)roper use of, i. 84, 85 ; on the 
 
 Congo, ii. 248 ; stupid iudilfcrence to, 
 
 ii. 321 
 Lightning stone, i. 90 
 Lifjnum vitx, ii. 374 
 liikona River: see Isunga. 
 Likuba River, another name for Ikuba, ii. 
 
 185, 345 
 Liiubu Li Nzambi, i. 00 
 Limes, ii. 246 
 
 Limit of navigation from the sea, i. 116 
 Lindi branch of Cliofu River, ii. 153 
 Lindner, Mr., i. 277, 278, 283, 286, 311, 
 
 447 
 Lingenji village, ii. 57, 59 
 Lingeuji, a boy trader, i. 137, 518, 520 
 Lingster Nsakala, the, i. 116, 123 
 " Lingster "traders, i. 387 
 Lion and buflalo tight, .i. 51 
 Lions, i. 509; ii. 241 
 Lion skins, ii. 354 
 " Liejuoriug-up," ii. 253 
 Lira River, ii. 358, 359 
 Little Rnpid Camp, i. 251 
 Liverpool, Chamber of Comnn rce, ii. 383; 
 
 value of African products, ii. 368, 369 
 Live stock, i. 150 
 Liviui, i. 416 
 Livingstone, Dr., last journey, i. 7 ; search 
 
 for, i. 13, 58 ; is found, i. 41 ; his opinion 
 
 of the Congo, i. 101 ; liis l.ead-man iSiisi 
 
 (see Susi) ; description of Charabezi, ii. 
 
 361, 362; w.>rks, ii. 11, 381, 385 
 Livingstone Cataracts, i. 160 ; Falls, i. 102 ; 
 
 ii. 339 
 Livitiirstone Inland Congo Mission, i. 490 ; 
 
 ii. 185, 214, 299 
 Loa River, i. 135, 161, 162, 209, 322, 403; 
 
 bridge over tiie, i. 2l)l ; valley, i. 12o, 
 
 127, 172, 186, 196, 197 
 Loaiiga, Dr. Pescluiel-Locche's expedition 
 
 to, i. 376 
 Lciango, ii. 229 
 Log Towers, i. 35o 
 
 Lokinga Mountains, ii. 361 
 
 Lokulu River, ii. 361 
 
 London correspondence, i. 25 ; Missionary 
 
 Society, i, 40 
 " Long " of cloth, a, i. 193 
 Long Reach, i. 240, 245, 247 
 Longevity, instances of, i. 310 
 Lopez, Cape, i. 73 
 Lopez, Duarto, the explorer, i. 1, 2, .18 ; 
 
 extraordinary descrij^tiou by, i. 3 
 L'^sanswe Mountains, ii. 361 
 Lost in the forest, i. 177 
 Lounging, i. 22, 23 
 Low-wa River, ii. 358, 359 
 Luahiba, i. 233 ; jiver, indentical with the 
 
 Congo, i. 8 
 Lualla River, i. 403 
 Luama River, ii. 359 
 Luamba, a headman of IMauyanga, i. 
 
 268 
 Lunpula River, identical with the Congo, 
 
 i. 8. 
 Luazaza River, i. 182, 184 
 Luban.ba River, 288, 318, 403 ; ii. 225 
 Luliansenzi River, ii. 361 
 Lubilash River, ii. 109 ; ii. 348. 351 
 Lubiranzi River, ii. 1(;9. 344, 315, 318 
 Lubunga, Chief of Upoto, ii. 171 
 Lucage' River : see Kwilu. 
 Luemba, Chief of Kinsembe', i. 318 
 Luemme' River, i. 488 
 Lueuda River, i. 180, 222, 226; bridge 
 
 across the, i. 187 
 Lufu River, i. 105, 106, 115. 116, 120, 126, 
 
 135,115, 162, 166, 172,403; ii. 215, 359; 
 
 valley, i. 186 
 Lufwenkeuya, i. 206 
 Lugumiiila, Vizier of Ibaka, i. 522, 527 ; ii. 
 
 2, 04 
 Luigi River, ii. 359 
 Luima valley, ii. 214 
 Luindi Riv( r, ii. 359 
 Luizi River, i. 403 ; ii. 217 
 Lukanga River, ii. 21, 27, 28, 45, 40, 344 
 Lukunga. i. 200; ii. 299; valley, ii. 212, 
 
 213, 214 
 Lukcbu, branch of Chofn River, ii. 153 
 Lukolela, ii. 13, 14. 15. 16, 21, 48, 49, 50, 
 
 05, 66, 07, 183, 288, 354 
 Lnk.'sic, IMonsienr, suicide of, i. 489 
 Lukuga River : see Luindi. 
 Lukuluzi River, i. 312 
 Lulu River, i. 180, 222, 22.^, 127, 228, 322, 
 
 403; ii. 193; bridge across the, i. 187 
 Lulungu River, ii. 32, 37, 76, 77, 78, 314, 
 
 351 
 Lumami, Chief of Wane' Sironga, ii. 157 ; 
 
 river, ii. 169, 348, 359 
 Lunioiizo River, i. 403; ii. 214 
 Lusalla of iMkimbwete, i. 165, 199 
 Lusengo, ii. 173 
 Lute e. Chief of Banza Lungu, i. 218, 219, 
 
 220, 382 ; ii. 207, 208
 
 472 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Luzalla Kindunga, a chief, i. Ifi5 
 Lynch law in Congo-land, ii. 194 
 
 Mabengu mountain, i. 391 
 
 ISlaboko village, ii. 4G 
 
 Mahruki, little, i. 178 ; 273, 274, 27G, 277 ; 
 
 306 
 Mitbula, i. 410, 417 
 Miihwa viilaije, i. 41G 
 Mackenzie, Dr (Duke Town), ii. 233 
 jMadiera. i. 400, 4G1 
 IVIati I l^land, i. 44 
 JIagwala, a chief of Irebu, ii. 25, 2G; ii. 
 
 43r4.=) 
 
 IM i^wiile, Mwaka of Mkimbwete, i. 1G5 
 
 Mahogany, ii. 30, G7, 374 
 
 Mahoney," INIr. Frank, i. 159 
 
 Maize, ii. 357, 375 
 
 MaUald, an ivory factor, i. 295 ; a chief of 
 
 Ntamo, i. 30G, 392. 490 ; ii. 191 
 Makanga. a ciuef of Zinga, i. 315 
 Mak-n-a Miinguba, i. 20G, 208, 209, 213- 
 
 215", 218,221 
 Makoko of Usansi, i. 18; Chief of Mbe' 
 
 cedes teirit.iry to France, i. 292, 293, 
 
 298, 323, 332, 343, 507, 508, 326-331 ; 
 
 ii. 192 
 Makoku's sword, i. 332 
 Makidvuru, a chief of Nganza, ii. 99 
 Makula, 1.112 
 IMaknta, i. 225 
 Makweta, .a chief, i. 165 
 Ma!afn, a fee for a judge, ii. 44; native 
 
 name for palm wine, i. 295 
 Ma'aiiicen, a Sene-al sergeant, i. 251, 292, 
 
 293, 297, 299, 37.5, 408 
 IMalaria, ii. 287 ; 304, 305, 317 
 Malc'le, a chief, i. 165 
 Malet, Sir Edward, ii. 393, 396, 298, 399 
 Malima. i. 295, 509; ii. 3, 302 
 Malingering, ii. 246, 247 ; i. 379 
 Mamballa, i. 82 
 3Iambwt' country, i. 8 ; ii. 364 ; plateau, ii. 
 
 362 
 jNIanagers of factories, i. 73 
 Manchester correspondence, i. 25 ; produce, 
 
 i. 30 ; Chamber of Commerce, ii. 383 
 Manga, i. 518, 519, 520, 525 ; ii. 57, 58, 
 
 60,61 
 Maiigi, a chief of Itimbi, ii. 2 
 Mangoes at Gaboon, ii. 231 ; Congo, ii. 
 
 246 
 Mnngombo, chief of Irebu, ii. 20, 21, 22, 23, 
 
 24, 25, 26. 42-45 
 Mangrove, i. 77 
 IManguru, of Bclobo, ii. 2 
 Maui villnge. ii. 207 
 Manioc, ii. 357 
 Manipandju of Loango, i. 18; chief of 
 
 Cliissanga, i. 474 
 ]Maidoads, weight of, i. 242, 346 
 Manswala, a chief, i. 490 ; ii. 191 
 Mauteka. ii. 215 
 
 Mantu beer, i. 512 ; village, 511, 512 
 Mantumba Lak.-, ii. 27, 46, 47. 344, 354 
 Manvanga, i. 70, 191, 192, 212, 2i0, 266, 
 
 267, 208, 269, 270, 271, 375, 377, 381, 
 
 422, 44.5, 476, 477, 478, 489, 513 ; ii 21 1, 
 
 287, 289, 292, 298, 301, 320, 339,370; 
 
 contract with the chief, i. 278, 279; 
 
 market, incident at. i. 281 ; ei'ectiug tiie 
 
 station at, i. 279 ; support of ihc t-taiiim, 
 
 i. 283; intended a.s a central <iep<it, i. 
 
 284 ; garrison at, i. 285 ; troubles at, iL 
 
 52 ; an expensive station, ii. 212 
 Manyara, i. 43 
 Manyema i. 8 
 March, Moas., i. 231 
 Marches, hours for, ii. 314, 324 
 IMarenga Mkali, i. 46 
 Mariatta, a cliief, i. 165 
 Marigny, Marquis de, i. 14 
 Maringu, ii. 363 
 Maritime and mountain region, area of, 
 
 ii. 343 ; region of the Congo, descriptiuu 
 
 of, ii. 310, 311 
 Market, incident at Manyanga, i. 281 ; at 
 
 Leopoldville, L 500 ; for animals, ii. 2 > 
 Marketing, native, i. 221, 254 
 Markets, ii. 245; fixed davs lor native, i. 
 
 203; native, i. '282; ('losing, i. 319; 
 
 Uvanzi, i. 421 ; Stanley Pool, i. 421 ; 
 
 cloth, ii. 177 ; at Ujiji, ii. 364 
 Marking-ink plant, ii. 358 
 Marriage celebration at Kintamo, i. 377 
 Marseilles, i. 21 
 Martinson, Martin, Danish sailor, i. 71, 
 
 107, 208, 212 
 Ma-sikamba, i. 40-44, 46 
 Masikn of Masanda, i. 165 
 Massabe', i. 488 ; boundary, ii. 401 
 Massacre, threatened with, i. 304 ; a 
 
 horrible sacrificial, ii. 180-182 
 Massala, the Lingster, i. 123, 132, 133, 
 
 135, 136, IGl, shooting of, i. 471, 472 
 Massari, Siguor, ii. 225 
 Massassa, i. 315 
 ]Mata Bwyki of Baugala, ii. 80-82, 84, 85, 
 
 87, 89, 173, 178 
 Ma-taddi Nzazzi, i. 90 
 Mataddi Point, i. 115 
 Matako (brass rods), ii. 22 
 Matanga, a chief, i. 165 
 IMatoma's village, i. 488 
 Mavangu, a chief, i. 165 
 jNIaweudje, ii. 138 
 Maxwell, Captain, i. 82, 86, 112 
 Mntiflm-er (tlie) in 1620, ii. 379 
 ]Mayomba : see Myumba. 
 :Mayumba Bav, i. 114, 115, 120 
 Mballa, a cliief, i. 490 
 3Ibama Hill, i. 347 
 Mbangu, i. 518 
 
 Mbe district, i. 507, 509-513 ; ii. 192 
 Mbelo, i. 315 ; ii. 210 
 Mbembe-Kissa, i. 248
 
 INDEX. 
 
 473 
 
 Mbembe, son of Mata Bwyki, ii. 173 
 
 Mbil.e, i. 421-42i; liver, L 410-411; ii. 
 344 
 
 Mbika, River, 1. 287, 403 
 
 Mbimbi, ii. 193, 194, 207 
 
 Mbomu : see Boma. 
 
 Mbundi Afiuida rapids, i. 253 
 
 Blburra, native name for Congo, ii. 135 
 
 Mbutclii. i. 422 
 
 Jltats. tinned, ii. 322 
 
 Medical attendance, i. 152 ; lusuries, ii. 
 247 
 
 Me licinc men, i. 199, 200 
 
 "Medicine lo make wealth grow," ii. 28 
 
 IMedicines for the tropics, ii. 325, 327 
 
 Mediterranean, i. 28 
 
 Meeting at the Royal Talace, Brussels, 
 i. 26 
 
 Melons : see Fiuit.- 
 
 ]\Iemorial stones of the Portuguese, i. 14 
 
 Jlen.ory, a good, i. 297 
 
 Men for the expedition, hiring, i. 31 
 
 ]Men-at-arms iit Vivi, i. 130 
 
 Men-of-war at Tonta da Lenlia, i. 85 
 
 Merchants on the Congo, their character, 
 i. 32 
 
 Meri, another name for Welle River, 
 
 MeroUa, Father, explor, r, i. 2 : Ids descrip- 
 tion of the great river, i. 4, 18 
 
 Mctc, a cliiet; i. 105 
 
 Meteorological tables, ii. 330-338; obser- 
 vations, ii. 312 
 
 Mfini River, i. 410, 411, 419, 421, 422,424 ; 
 ii. 27 
 
 Mfwa, i. 251, 294, 295, 300, 478, 509 ; ii. 
 802 
 
 Mganuaism, ii. Ill 
 
 Mfiaugila, i. 179, 201, 210 ; chiefs, i. 202 ; 
 plateau, ii. 21(3 
 
 Miani, another name for Welle River. 
 
 Miasma, ii. 287, 304, 310, 311, 317, 319 
 
 Mickic, Mr., ii. 225 
 
 "Middl men " traders, i. 387 
 
 Mikeiie River, i. 519 ; ii. 65 
 
 Mikene'-Alima Rivt r, ii. 345 
 
 Mikunga, i. 393, 397 ; < hiefs, i. 388 
 
 Mileage of jonrneys, i. 190, 191 
 
 Milk unobtiiinabie, ii. 322 
 
 Millet, ii. 357 ; I read, i. 431 
 
 Minerals, ii. 356 
 
 IMinnow fishing, i. 262 
 
 Mirambo, a faithful rss, i. 184 
 
 Mirando, King of Urambo, i. 39, 40 
 
 Missioniiries misrepresenting the traders, 
 i. 100 ; Bapti.-t, 225 ; icpulsed l>y native.-, 
 i. 251 ; Roman Catholic, repulsed by the 
 natives, i. 308, 445 ; at Le'opoldville, 
 i. 49G 
 
 Mission, a pretty, station, ii. 212, 213; 
 children, ii. 213; at Banza Manteka, 
 ii. 214; at Pallaballa, ii. 217 : (French; 
 at Landa'a, ii. 229 : i.t Gaboon, ii. 231 ; 
 at Cretk Town (Calab.ir), ii- 233 
 
 Missions in Congo-land, i. 11, 13, 16; 
 
 French Catholic, at Boma, i. 100; con- 
 lending, i. 496, 497; Roman Calholic, 
 
 ii. 50 ; at Ltopoldville, ii. 50 
 Missionary etiorts. ii. 185 ; ttations, ii. 363 ; 
 
 enterpri.<e, ii. 377 
 Missionary Society, London, i. 40 
 Mississippi, compiirison to, i. 401 ; ii. 78, 
 
 374, 375 
 Missongo missionary station, ii. 185 
 Mivongo of Usindi, ii. 49, 50, 58, 60, 61, 65, 
 
 67-69, 80, 1S2, 345 
 Moderafon in food and drink, ii. 295 
 Moeni Kheii, i. 42 
 Moenzi Nzaddi, native name for the river, 
 
 i. 7 
 Moffat, Dr., ii. 385 
 
 Mohindn River, ii. 32, 344 : see Ikelembo. 
 Mokulu Town, ii. 115-119, 124, 133 
 Mombas-a Creek, i. 58 
 Mompara, i. 40, 42 
 Mompurengi villages, i. 515 
 Monanga, a chief of Z n<_'a, i. 315, 316 
 Monet, Mons., ii. 224, 277 
 Money carried by an expedition, i. 48 
 
 fines for bloodshed, i. 524 
 
 Mongo, i. 518; ii. 57; a chief, i. 519 
 Monkey skins, ii. 354 
 
 islands, i. 82 
 
 Monkeys, ii. 6, 8 
 
 IMouotony of scenery, ii. 5 
 
 IMontes Quemados, i. 17 
 
 Moiltiero, Juachim. i. 102 
 
 Moore, Mr. A. H.. i. 145, 159, 196, 209 
 
 Morgan, U.S. Seuidor, i. 36 
 
 Morton & Co., Francis, London, i. 145 
 
 Mosquito nets, i. 422 
 
 Mo.*quitocs, i. 422 
 
 Mountain and maritime region, area of, ii. 
 
 343 
 IMountainous region of the Congo, ii. 341 
 Mountains, i. h90, 391 
 Mowa, i. 287, 315, 469 
 Mpa, ii. 98 
 
 Mpagassa, 209, 210 ; River, i. 164, 201 204 
 Mpakambendi, i. 286, 287. 311, 312, 316, 
 
 445 ; ii. 207, 210 
 Mpalangii. i. 321, 322, 403; a breakdown 
 
 at, i. 480 
 ]\Tpama, an erroneous name, i. 3 
 Mpamba Njrulu, i. 175, 179, 181 
 Mpangi, i. 103 
 Mpangu, ii. 208, 209, 211 
 Mpika, a chief of Irel)U. ii. 25, 26, 42, 43, 
 
 44, 45; villii-e, li. 207 
 Mpioga River, ii. 211 
 Mpissa, ii. 171 
 IMpokwn, i. 46 
 Mpcjzo River, i. 403 
 M[)und)U market, n. 2 
 Mpumu Ntaba, i. 407, 408 ; of Mbe, i. 18 
 Mputu Creek, i. 04 
 Mpwapwa, i. 49
 
 474 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Mpwele'le, i. 165 
 
 Msampalii, i. 288 : uarrows, i. 318 
 Msemie, the suiJe, ii., 14, 3'^ 4U, 44 
 Mswata, i. 31)8, 3UI), 405-409, 422, 43G, 
 
 445, 481, 507, SOJ ; ii. 2G, 5 J, 51, 55, 302 ; 
 
 growth (if, i. 511 
 Mtfsa of Uj^anda, i. 291 
 Mub.iiiQ;ii, ii. 215 
 Mubi, a chief of Ntamo, i. 306, 490 ; ii. 
 
 191 
 Mud alive with crabs, i. 77 
 Muijubii, a chief, i. 513 
 Mukana, villugc, i. 432: Puiut, i. 254, 255 
 Miikouilokwa, i. 46 
 Mukoss liiver, i. 288, 289 
 Mukuku, cliief of Yambinga. ii. 107-109 
 Miileke -listrict, i. 423, 429 
 Muller, Moils., i. 73 
 Muluangu, ii. 214 
 Miilwassi Uiver, ii. 207 
 Mundek', meaning a white, i. 132 ; Masuiia 
 
 plains, i. 390 
 Mungala, i. 286 
 Mungawa, a chief, ii. 14, 48 
 Mungolo, i. 518 ; ii. 57, 59 
 Miuiroe, Mr. J. (Duke Town), ii. 233 
 Miinster, Count, ii. 384 
 iMiircliison, Sir Roderick, i. 7 
 Murder, a rumour of, i, 489 ; of two men at 
 
 Bolobo, i. 516, 517, 523; compensation 
 
 for, i. 525, 527 
 Musciivy ducks, ii. 13 
 Mushirniigos, i. 83 
 Musianga-iand, ii. 109 
 Mnssuko, i. 74, 96, 105, 108. 112, 113, 133, 
 
 141, 144, 145, 449; ii. 302 
 Musye, i. 415, 419-422 
 
 Munono, i. 431, 432, 444 
 
 Muta-Nzige Lalce, ii. 358 
 
 Mutembo,' ii. 91, 1>4, 96, 111 
 
 Mutumba village, i. 433 
 
 Muvanga, i. 163 
 
 Muzouzila, i. 162, 164, 166, 172, 186 
 
 MvuLi, a chief ot Zinga, i. 315, 316 
 
 INlvnzi streamlet, i 173 
 
 Mwana Mund. le, i. 380 
 
 Mwekwanga, a chief, i, 519, 520, 525 
 
 ]M-\vembe, ii. 214 
 
 Mwcru Lake, i. 8; ii. 340, 360 
 
 IMwitikirn, i. 46 
 
 Mvombi, chief of Bumba, ii. 104 
 
 Myrrli, ii. 354, 374 
 
 Mystification, cliarge on the expedition, 
 
 i. 55 
 Myumba, ii. 229 
 
 Nachtigal, Dr., i. 34, 36 ; ii. 385 
 Nakussa, a hea<lman ot Manviinga, i. 268 
 Name of Staidey picked up by natives, 
 
 ii. 17 
 National Committees, i. 35. 36 
 Natives, — character, i. 29, 30.313, 314; ii. 
 
 343 ; avarice, i. 46 : confederatio:i, i. 53 ; 
 
 customs not to be changed, i. 53, 54; 
 workmen, i. 146, 149; stories of tlie 
 white man, i. 184; tracks, i. 192; in- 
 dolence, i. 193; fondness of gin, i. 202; 
 friendliness, i. 254; hostility aroused at 
 Malima and Mfwa, i. 300 /dishonesty, 
 i. 304 ; inebriety, i. 315 ; idleness, i. 393 ; 
 experience of huropean.s, i. 517 ; cliiefs, 
 wealth of, li. 2, 3; definition of rivers 
 and lakes, ii. 27 ; superstitions, ii. 28, 29 ; 
 surprise at steamers, ii. 12, 16, 29, 105 ; 
 minufacture of pottery, ii. 48; wars, 
 ^ligllt pruvofiatiou of, ii. 62; visitors at 
 Le'opoldville, influence of, ii. 73; roads, 
 ii. 104; drum signals, ii. 158; chiefs and 
 districts, list of, ii. 198-20 1; worker.-, 
 i. 203; chiefs, tornis of treaties with, ii. 
 195, 196, 197, 205, 206; enlistment for 
 transport, ii. 225; chiefs at Calabar, 
 iron houses of, ii. 233; villages, healthy 
 sites of, ii. 302, 303 ; eagerness for trade, 
 ii. 367 ; chiefs, treaties wiih, ii. 379, 380 ; 
 chiefs, soothing, i. 490, 491 ; roads, i. 
 189; welcome, a happy, ii. 19; how to 
 trade M'itli, i. 99, 100; surprise at pad 
 work, i. 143, 144; liable to conceive sus- 
 picion, i. 169, 170 ; fair d> aling with 
 the, i. 170; visiting Vivi, i. 189; loo 
 rich to work, i. 193; European frigid 
 towards, i. 248 ; doubtful at JNIanyanga, 
 i. 269 ; dangers of rupture witu th •, 
 i. 314; refusing to attack us, i. 36.J ; 
 Mfsva, i. 374 ; companionable, i. 392, 
 394; hostile, i. 432, 442, 514; ii. 4, 11, 
 36, 78, 111, 113; feasibility of trade 
 with, i. 463; friendly welcnue from, i. 
 481; treaties with, i. 495; ii. 48; at 
 Le'opoldville, difficulty with, i. 491- 
 494 ; difficulties of quarrels with, i. 523, 
 524, 526 ; mercantile knowledge among, 
 ii. 22, 23; war d:in''e of, ii. 35; praising 
 their villnges, ii. 30 : expressionless, ii. 
 68; timid, ii. 103, 127; skilful «oik- 
 ruansliip of, ii. 123; iinf(prtuaate,ii. 140 ; 
 thieving, ii. 84, 173, 174; at war, ii. 23 
 -25 
 
 Nature and Habit, i. 199 
 
 Kavltiation, Actes de, ii. 396, 397 
 
 Navigation of the Ccmtro, i. 85, 86, 113, 114, 
 116; ii. 339, 340, 346, 366; Lubilasli, 
 ii. 169; Lumani, ii. 169 
 
 Nehuvila, chief of Kinshassa, i. 250, 298, 
 375 
 
 Ndambi Mbongo, i. 165, 175, 180, 231, 
 234 ; natives, i. 237 
 
 Ndinga, chief of Bolombo, ii. 84 
 
 Ndobo village, ii. 103 
 
 Ndu Kumbi, i. 430 
 
 Ndua, i. 429, 430 
 
 Ndunga, i. 265, 269; ii. 212; dancing,!. 
 265, 266 ; mountains, i. 261 ; rapids, i. 
 262, 264 266 
 
 Negotiations at Ntamo, coast of, i. 310;
 
 INDEX. 
 
 475 
 
 ■with Ngalyema, difficult, i. 308. 309 ; at 
 Usansi, i. 327-331 ; tedious with Afiicuut:, 
 i, 429 ; for peace, ii. 44, 15 ; for peace at 
 Eol(jbo, ii. 60, 61 
 Nepro state, ditticultv of forming a, i. 54 
 Ntkke River, ii. 131' 
 NeuipHiiiliu, a chief, i. 165 
 Nepiiko Rivei', ii. 131 
 NfevaD^i, ii chief, i. 1G5 
 Neve, Mr. Paul, i. 226, 239, 283 
 Newi^papeis, the threat <;f writing to the, 
 
 1.71 
 New York Herald and Daily Telegrapli 
 
 Expedition, i. 8, 58 
 New i'ork, brancli society at, i. 36 
 Nezan, a chief, i. 165 
 Nfuuiti, the title of Congo chiefs, i. 17 
 
 Xguma, i. 505, 506 
 
 Ngako, i-hief of Kinianio, i 304, 306, 380, 
 
 381, 392, 490, 507; ii. 191 
 Ngnku liiver, ii. 212 
 
 Ngalyema, Cliief of Ntam\ i. 250, 300. 
 3U3, 304-307, 308, 309, 318-320, 337, 
 344, 348-350, 377, 372, 381-383, 387, 
 392, 490, 492, 493. 508; ii. 52, 189-191 ; 
 in arnjs, i. 332-336; and Eula Matari, 
 i. 357 ; his character, i. 3.")8 ; wily strata- 
 gems of, i. 358, 359 ; a braggart, i. 360; 
 threatening attitude of, i. 362, 369; 
 peace with, i. 367, 373 
 Ngamberengi the chief, i. 323, 332, 348, 
 
 493 ; ii. 192 
 Ngfina, i. 433 ; River, i. 444 ; ii. 344 
 Ngandu, a chief, i. 165, 171-173 
 Nganza, ii. 99 
 Ngete, i. 428 
 
 Ngingiri River, another name for Itimbiri. 
 Ngoma, i. 288, 234-236, 238; ii. 192; 
 mountain, i. 179, 181-183, 229, 230; 
 jwint, i. 187, 223, 229 ; rapids, i. 183 ; 
 village, ii. 207 
 Ngoma's village, i. 325, 832 
 Ngonibc', an erroneous name, i. 3 ; a Chief 
 of Mganjiila, i. 165 ; ii. 17, 18, 21, 25, 
 49, 183, 207 
 Ngonibi, 194, 320 
 Ngoyo, i, 73, 261-263 
 Ngufu-Mpanda of Banza ?ombo, i. 129 
 Niadi, meaning a river, i. 2 
 Niemai), Heri', i. 450 
 Niger, comparison to the, i. 401 
 Night air, exposure to, ii. 283-285, 308 
 Nile, the, i. 8 ; comparison to the, i. 401 ; 
 
 ii. 8 
 Nilis, Lieutenant, i. 382, 409 
 Njali, meaning a river, i. 2 
 Nju<;u, uei)hew of Mata Bwyki, ii. 173- 
 
 175 
 Nkamampn, a chief, i. 165 
 Nkenge i. 260 : river, i. 182, 183 ; plain, 
 
 the, i, 187 
 Nkenke : ^ee Lubamba 
 Nkingi, a chief, i. 165 
 
 Nkongolo, station at, 113, 114 
 
 Nlmkii district, ii. 18, 19, 21 ; river, ii. 
 
 346 
 Nkusu, the, 1. 153, 160 ; bridge over the, 
 
 i. 186 ; bridge at, ii. 223 ; ravine, i. 120, 
 
 122 ; ii. 301 ; valley, i. 148 
 Nkutii River, another name for the Kwn, 
 
 i. 412 
 Noble officers, ii. 255-279 
 Nokki, i. 17, 96, 111, 113, 114, 162, 179; 
 
 ii. 215, 401 
 Noaiaza c .ve, i. 115, 120, 121 
 Nomenclature, erroneous, in Congo-laud, i. 
 
 2,3 
 Nostalgia, i. 224 ; ii. 241 
 Nozo, chief at Paliaballa, ii. 217 
 Nsaka, a chief of Zinga, i. 315 
 Nsidcala, the lingster, i. 116, 133 
 Nsii.kala Mpwassa, a chief, i. 165 
 N?anibana Island, ii. 38 
 Nsamla, i. 116, 161, 163, 164, 179 ; payment 
 
 for right of way at, i. 170 ; markets, i. 
 
 175; chiefn, meeting of, i. 164-169; 
 
 natives, i. 209, 210 
 N:?angu ferrv, i. 325, 478 ; mountains, i, 
 
 390 ; ii. 193 
 Nseke', meaning " inland," i. 3 
 Nseke'le'lo, i. 166, 172, 173, 222 
 NselehRiver, i.395, 403 
 Nselo ferry, ii. 193 
 Nsona Mamba ferry, i. 259 
 Ntaba of Malima, i. 299 
 Ntanio,i. 303, 307-311 
 Ntolulu, a chief, i. 165 
 Ntombi's dark ravine, i. 245 ; cove, i. 250 
 Ntonibo-a-Langa, i. 200. 201 
 
 Lukuti grove, ii. 214 
 
 Lukuti, ii. 215, 299 
 
 IMtaka, i. 267, 269 
 
 Nu-ampozo River, i. 120, 128 
 
 Nutmeg, ii. 358 
 
 Nyadi, meaning a river, 1. 2 
 
 Nyam-Nyam country, ii. 351 
 
 >yaugwe', i. S, 20, 40, 43, 216; ii. 340, 
 
 359, 360 ; Arabs, ii. 142 ; falls, ii. 360 
 Nyassa Lake, i. 7 
 Nyongena Mountain, i. 179, 187. 223, 227, 
 
 229, 234 
 Nyungu, i. 40, 43 
 Nzabi, i. 287 
 
 Nzaddi, meaning a river, i. 2 
 Nzali, meaning a river, i. 2 
 Nzambi (God), ii. 44 ; rapids, i. 255-257 
 Nzari, meaning a river, i. 2 
 Nzungi, a village of carriers, ii. 207 
 
 Objects of the Berlin Conference, ii. 393 
 Ocean steamers, on the Con^o, i. 85, 86 
 Officer, a homicidal, ii. 55 
 Officers at Vivi, i. 159 ; of the expedition, 
 
 their number, i. 67 ; noble, ii. 255-279 
 Ogowai River, i. 159, 231, 233, 234 
 Oil-berry, ii. 353 ; palm, ii. 367
 
 476 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Oil-river at Oil Cal;il)ar, ii. 232 
 
 01(1 Culitbar River, ii. 232 
 
 " Old Tom." ii. 319 
 
 Olivier;., Dr., i. 450 
 
 Oae P.ilm Point, i. 434 
 
 Onion, ii. 357 
 
 Opposition from Ngalyema, 332-342 
 
 (Jran^:ro, the Priiico ot, i. 35 
 
 trees, ii. 246 
 
 Orbaii, Lieut., i. 487, 4S:>, 51t) 
 
 Orchilla weed, ii. i»2, 07,342,353, 356, 367, 
 
 374 
 Orgiuisation of expeditions, i. 33-44; 
 
 oi' eastern e.xpeditious, i. 45 
 Onjderope, i. 205 
 O^ear Pere, i. 45 
 Osteiid, ii. 237 
 Overlaid co ivevance of steamers, i. 182, 
 
 227, 228; ii. 26 1 
 Oyster shell heaps, ii. 104 
 Ozi River, i. 58 
 
 Padiao, Rio de, former name of the Conp:o, 
 
 i. 1 
 Padron Point, i. 63 
 P.dahalla INlountain, i. 12), 162, 179, 205; 
 
 ii. 215, 217 
 Palavers,— at Vivi, i. 123, 129, 130, 132, 
 
 133-137; at Xtamo, i. 309; at Nsnida, 
 
 i. 164-170; at Kinlaaio, i. 372; at 
 
 Mswa'a, 1. -ido, 407; at Stanley Falls, 
 
 ii. 161, 162 
 Palisades in leaf, i. 152 
 Palm butter, ii. 342 
 
 • juice, ii. 192 
 
 oil, ii. 355 : oil shipments at Old 
 
 Calabar, ii. 232 
 
 wine, i. 165, ISO, 214, 307 ; ii. 322 
 
 Palraas Cape, i. 78 
 
 Palms, i. 513, 518; ii. 5, 92, 341, 352, 367 
 
 Palmyra Rea-h, i. 106, 112 
 
 Papaw tiees, ii. 246 
 
 Fapijrus, ii. 6 ; pautiquoriim, ii. 354 
 
 Paifoiny, Lieut., i. 478 ; ii. 26J 
 
 Pari^, a meeting it:, i. 23, 24 
 
 Park, .Mungo, ii. 385 
 
 Parmeuter,"Mnjor, ii. 224, 271, 273 
 
 ParriKiuets, ii. 8 
 
 Parrots, i. 207, 419, 430 ; ii. 6. 8 
 
 Patifencc', the virtue of, i. 46, 49 
 
 Payment of native carriers, i. 346 
 
 Peace, celebration of, ii. 63, 64 ; negot'a- 
 
 tion.s ii. 26 ; at Irebu, ii. 42, 45 ; at 
 
 Bolobj, ii. 60, 61 
 Pelicans, i. 417 
 Fersonnd of a station, i. 37 
 Peschuel Loesche, Dr., i. 376, 447, 448, 
 
 449; ii. 387 
 Pestdential vapour, ii. 300, 301 
 Pettit Hubert, i. 208 
 Philanthropic expeditions, character of, i. 
 
 24; views, ii. 406 
 Phtenix Spinosa, ii. 354 
 
 Pliillippeville, 1. 477 ; ii. 277 ; copper mines, 
 ii. 356 
 
 Piedmont, the Prince de, i. 35 
 
 Pigeon, wild, i. 207 
 
 Pigs, ii. 207 
 
 Pike, ii. 160 
 
 Pillar Point, i. 12; river, i. 1 
 
 Pillars Po;tuguesc Stone, i. 1 ; their pur- 
 pose, i. 10, 11 
 
 Pilot of Ba-iana, i. 63 
 
 I'ilots. jottings for Congo, i. 403, 404, 405 
 
 IMncolVs and Kerdyck, Messrs., i. 72 
 
 Pine Apples : see Fruit. 
 
 Pioneers, foreign, i. 195 ; native, i. 198 
 
 Piqaf. tta's " Kingdom of the Congo," i. 9 
 
 IMrate Creek, i, 64, 77 
 
 I'lutia atnitiotes, i. 411 ; ii. 6 
 
 Plane-trees, ii. 30, 66 
 
 Plantains, li. 357 
 
 Plenipotentiaries at Berlin, ii. 391, 392, 
 393 
 
 Plumbaso, ii. 357 
 
 Plymouth, landed at, ii. 236 
 
 Pocock Francis, i. 313 ; ii. 249 
 
 Basin, ii. 210 
 
 Pogge, Dr., ii. 351, 387 
 
 Point Padron, i. 63 
 
 Ponta da Lenha, i. 74, 77, 82, 83, 85, 87, 
 88, 96, 104 
 
 Pope Innocent X., i. 16 
 
 Paul v., i. 4, 16 
 
 Popelin, Captain, i. 43, 44 
 
 Population, ii. 343 ; of Zinga, i. 315 ; 
 of Bolobo, i. 518 ; of native villages, ii. 
 45; tables of, ii. 349, 3.50; of Upper 
 Congo region, ii. 349-351; of Webb- 
 Lualaba region, ii. 360; of Taiiginika 
 territory, ii. 362; of Chambezi region, 
 ii. 362 ; of the Congo basin, ii. 366, 367, 
 375 
 
 Porterage of goods, price now paid for, ii. 
 372 
 
 Portuguese Pillars, i. 1, 14; their purpose, 
 j. 10, 11 
 
 missionary efforts, i. 11, 13 
 
 Portuguese, — expel the Jaggas, i. 12 ; ces- 
 sion of territory to the, i. 12; fort at 
 Kabinda, i. 14; exercised no authority 
 on the Congo bank, i. 14 ; expelleil from 
 Kabinda, i. 14 ; the slave-trade under 
 tlie, i. 14, 15 ; mission at San Salvador, 
 i. 16; traders, i. 92; at Yivi, i. 225; 
 steamers, discomforts of, i. 458, 4.j9, 460 ; 
 territor.v, ii. 36g, 380, 401, 404; action 
 of the government, ii. 380 
 
 Pocse, Count, ii. 277 
 
 Potatoes, ii. 357; sweet, ii. 213 
 
 Pottery, native manufacture of, ii. 48 
 
 Power of native chiefs, i. 17-19 ; i. 508, 
 509 
 
 Preparations for war, i. 333 
 
 Presents, i. 406 ; ii. 23, 90 ; expectancy 
 of i. 164; description of, i. 170; to
 
 INDEX. 
 
 477 
 
 chiefs, i. 185 ; exchanging, i. 288, 307 ; 
 
 clainiauts lor, i, 331 ; a oue-sided balance- 
 
 siieet for, i. 35^ 
 President for the State, a, ii. 53 
 Prince's Island, i. 57, 110, 111, 457 
 Prison l.oirors at Loanda, i. 453 
 Prisoners, two of my men, i. 371 
 
 for theft, ii. 174, 178, 179 
 
 Produce, native, i. 193 
 
 I'roducts, of mountain region, ii. 342 : of 
 
 tlie Upper Congo regions, ii. 352-358 ; 
 
 of Africa, table of value in Liverpool, ii. 
 
 368, 3G9 
 Progress, rate of, i. 215, 241, 209. 270 
 Proiectorate of districts, ii. 166 ; of Boma, 
 
 ii. 225 
 Provisions for an Expedition, i. 48, 49 
 Pumpkins, ii. 243 
 Punishment, a terrible, i. 97. 98 
 Puichas, tiie English compiler, i. 4 
 Piir.tiins and the Mayflower, ii. 379 
 Pythons, i. 204 
 
 Quarrel with Ngalyema, i. 332-342 
 Quarrels with natives at Leopold ville, 
 
 i. 485 ; witii natives, difficulties of, i. 
 
 523, 524, 526 
 Quatrolages, M. de, i. 36 
 Questions put at the Brussels meeting, i. 
 
 26 
 Qiiettah, ii. 236 
 Ouin'a as a Ionic, ii. 325 
 Quinine in cases of fever, i. 272-274 
 
 Piailwav at Vivi, ii. 227 ; between Viva 
 and Lsangila, proposed, i. 186, 187 ; ne- 
 ci ssity for a, i. 463, 464 ; fur the Congo, 
 ii. 367. 368 ; probable cost of construc- 
 tion, ii. 370, 371 ; probab;e trafSc on a, 
 ii. 370. 371 : proposal?, i. 25 
 
 Pain, eficctof heavy, i. 94 
 
 Eainfall observations, ii. 3C3-338 
 
 Kainstorms, ii. 210 
 
 Eniny seasons, tl.e, i. 258 ; health during, 
 ii. 299 
 
 Bank, qunrrels about, i 71, 72 
 
 Kansoni ofl'ered for release of a thief, ii. 
 174 
 
 Eansoms, i, 260 
 
 Eiiphia vinifera, ii. 352, 351- 
 
 Eapids, Enka, ii. 129, 130 
 
 Eiipine, tracts of, ii. 1.39 
 
 Bate of progress, i. 215, 241, 269, 270, 
 480; ii. 9,75 
 
 Eations, a day's, i. 48 
 
 purchase of. i. 481 
 
 Ecasons auainst bloodshed, i. 523, 524 
 
 Eecuperation in a temperate climate neces- 
 sary, ii. 329 
 
 Eed«ooil, ii. 5, 30, 67, .374 
 
 powder, ii. 2, 353, 354, 356, 367 
 
 Eeg's & Co., i. 72, 78 
 
 Eemini;tou rifles, i. 47 
 
 Eeport to King Leopold, ii. 237 
 
 Eepulse at Malima, i. 299, 300 
 
 Efsignations, ii. 247 
 
 Kesolutions passed at Brussels, i. 27 
 
 Ee-trictions on trade, dangers of, i. 464 
 
 Eetiibution, thouglits on, ii. 143 
 
 Eevenue of proposed railway, ii. 371 
 
 Eiiine, comjiarison to, ii. 8 
 
 Eice, growth o ', ii. 35/ 
 
 Eirhthofen Baron von, i. 34 
 
 E ties, class of ritles carried, i. 47 
 
 EiL;ht of w'ay, payment fur, i. 170 
 
 Eio de Congo, the name on old maps, i. 2 
 
 E:o Poderoso, an old name of the Congo, 
 
 i. 1 
 Eise and fall of the Congo, i. 87 
 Eiver bank defended by sliarp pios, ii. 
 
 135 
 Eiver courses, old, i, 175 
 Rivers (see also under special names), the 
 Aruwiini, ii. 115; Balui, ii. 79, 345; 
 Biyerre. i. 514; ii. 129-132,170, 349; 
 Black Eiver, ii. 359; Bundi, i. 403; 
 Bnnga, ii. 66 ; Chambczi, ii. .358 ; Chofu, 
 ii. 153; Edwin Arnold, i. 403 ; Gordon 
 Bennett, i. 403; ii. 53; Gurba, ii. 131 ; 
 Ikelcmba, ii. 31, 32, 77, 78, 344; Ikuba, 
 ii. 65; Inkissi, i. 403, 478; ii. 193; 
 Isanga, ii. 345; Itimbiri, ii. 109, 110, 
 112, llil, 345, 352 ; Kwa. ii. 314 ; Kwilu- 
 Niadi, i. 403; ii. 214, 225: Lacustrine 
 Kan;olondo, ii. 360; Lawsori-Lutini, i. 
 509, 512; ii. 315; Leopold, ii. 359; 
 Lhari, ii. 131 ; Likuba, ii. 185, 345 ; 
 Lira, ii. 358, 359 ; Lon, i. 4(13; Lokulu, 
 ii. 361 ; Low-wa, ii. 358, 359 ; Lualla, i. 
 403 ; Luama, ii. 359 ; Lubamba, i. 403 ; 
 ii. 225; Lnbansenzi, ii. 361; Lubilash, 
 ii. 169, 348, :-51 ; Lubiranzi, ii. 169, 
 344, 345, 348 ; Luimme, i. 488 ; Lufii, i. 
 403 : ii. 21.5, 359; Luigiii. 359; lAiindi, 
 ii. 359 ; Luizi,i. 403 ; ii. 217 ; Lukaiiga, 
 ii. 21, 27, 28, 45, 46, 344; Lulu, i. 403 ; 
 ii. 193; Lulungu, ii. 76-78, 344, 352; 
 Lumami, ii. 169, 348, 359; Lunionzo, i, 
 ■:03; ii. 214; Mbika, i. 403; Mbihe', 
 ii. 344; Mfmi, ii. ii7; Mikene, i. 519; 
 ii. 65; Mikene-Alin)a, ii. 345; Muhindu, 
 ii. 344 ; Jlpioga, ii. 211 ; Mpozo, i. 403 ; 
 Mpalanga, i. 4 03; Mulwassi, ii. 207; 
 Nekke, ii. 131 ; Nepoko, ii. 131 ; Ngaku, 
 ii. 212 ; Ngann, i. 444; ii. 344; Nl>uku, 
 ii, 346; Kseleii, i. 395, 403; Ubangi, ii. 
 345 ; Ubika, ii. 171 ; Ulindi, ii. 358, a59 ; 
 Wampoko, ii. 51 ; Welle', ii. 126, sqg. 
 Welle-MakuM, ii. 110 
 Eoad, "kUling" the, i. 314 
 
 in danger through lain, ii. 210 
 
 Eoad-mnking. i. 141, 1-12, 115, 154, 155, 
 181, 187, I'.iO, 191, 196-198, 201, 201- 
 207, 224, 235-237, 239, 279, 312, 325, 
 370, 463; ii. 223; negotiating for, i. 
 167-169
 
 478 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Eoafls, iniurcd hv rains, i. 480 ; native, i. 
 
 104, 189; n.glected, ii. 221 
 Eobsou Islands, i. 82 
 Kock formations, i. 240, 247 
 Kocky Point, i. 115, 513-515 
 liohlf, the explorer, ii. 385 
 Roman Catholic Mission, ii 50 
 liome, missions from, i. 16 
 Eoth, Dr., i. 34 
 
 " Rotlischild," the, of Bolobo, ii. 3 
 Eowe. Sir Samuel, i. 57, 59 
 Royal, steam launcli, i. €8, 83, 104, IIG, 
 
 154, 190, 196, 477, 478, 481, 501 ; ii. 57, 
 
 59, 116; at 0»tend, i. 244; under repair, 
 
 i. 261 ; wreck of the, ii. 170, 171 
 Royal Geographical Society, i. 33 
 Ruanda cattle, ii. 301 
 Rubber, India, i. 384 
 Rubunga, Chief of Nganza, ii. 99 
 Rudolf, the Archduke, i. 35 
 Rudoltttadt station, i. 474-476 
 Rnfiiji, the, i. 44 ; river, i. 58 
 Rug:)-Ru<ra, vi^sits. i. 40 
 RukaRipids, ii. 129, 130 
 Rules for organising an expedition, i. 47 
 Rum. used as currency, i. 193 ; used in 
 
 trading, i. 158 
 Rnptnre with the natives, dangers of, i. 
 
 314 
 Ruse, a, in camp, i. 334 
 Russia, cause of its non-rcprcsentation, i. 
 
 35 
 
 Sa'adala, i. 251 
 
 Sabuka, i. 477, 480, 481. 488, 489 
 Sacre<l water, sprinkling of, ii. 106 
 Sacrifice of life ; a horrible custom, ii. ISO- 
 
 182 
 Sadika Banza, i. 164, 179, 205 
 Sadika Banzi, p;afeau, ii. 216 
 Safeni, i. 260 
 Sagfjitaire, the, a French frigate, i. 86, 
 
 (note), 475 
 Sailing vessels ascending the Congo, i. 
 
 113 
 St. Paul de Loanda, 14 ; docuuK nt in 
 
 the arcliivcs of, i. 12; desciiption of, 
 
 i. 450-455 
 St. Thomas' Island, i. 57, 456 
 Salt extiactcd from grass, i. 424 
 Salutations on the march, ii. 192, 193 
 S;duting the dead, i. 75 
 Samuna. a cliief of Xsanda, i. 18, 164 
 Sanatorium at Boma, ii. 228 ; Le'opoldville, 
 
 i. 391 ; on Leopold Hill, ii. 191 
 Sand flies, i. 214 
 Saml-pipeis, i. 436 
 Sanda Congo, i. 112 
 Sanfoni, Gineral, H. S., of Florida, i. 36 ; 
 
 ii. 381, 382 
 San Januario, the Duke de, i. 35 
 San Salvador, capital of Congo, i. 11 ; de- 
 
 strnction of, i. 12; rebuilding of, i. 12; 
 
 bishopric transferred to St. Paul de 
 Loanda, i. 13; in ruins, i. 13; attempt 
 to re-open mi.?sions, i. 13 ; Baptist 
 Mission at, i. 13; mission at, i. 16; ii. 
 342 
 
 Sarawak, ii. 379 
 
 Sardines, potted, ii. 322 
 
 Saulez, Capt. Sevmour, ii. 191. 272 
 
 Scenery oftheCo'ngo.i. 92,93, 94, 111,112, 
 124, 125, 126, 171, 172, 173, 175, 176, 
 179, 180, 181, 182, 183, 184, 243, 241, 
 245, 246, 247, 250, 255, 256, 2.")8, 262, 264, 
 324, 325, 390, 391, 396, 397, 399, 400, 
 401, 5('4, 505, 511, 512. 513; ii. 4-9, 11, 
 17, 77, 79, 91, 92, 93, 152; on the 
 Ikeleniba, ii. 34-36 
 
 Sceptical people, ii. 377 
 
 Sceptre of Ngalyema, 
 
 School, native children of, ii. 208 
 
 Schnoor Ihe carpenter, ii. 191 
 
 Schweinfuith, Dr., ii. 130, 351, 385 
 
 Scientific mission of a station, i. 37 
 
 Scotch scenery, comparison to, i. 400, 
 401 
 
 Scotchman Head, i. 81 
 
 Seaside resorts, i. 23 
 
 Stason ior gardening, i. 381 
 
 Sea near the land, appearance of the, i. 
 61 
 
 Secrecy, reasons for, i. 56 
 
 Seltzer, ii. 282 
 
 Semicarhus anacardium, ii. 358 
 
 Sette Camma, ii. 229 
 
 Settlement, an immense, ii. 81, 82 
 
 Shale, ii. 214 
 
 Shamba Gonera, i. 45, 48 
 
 Shari River, ii. 131 
 
 Shark's Point, i. 62, 63 
 
 Shaw, Mr. E. Massey, ii. 224, 271, 273 
 
 Sheds for workmen, a necessity, ii. 315 
 
 Sheep, ii. 243 
 
 Shipping at Banana Point, i. 64 
 
 Ships for the Congo, ii. 367 
 
 Shooting a hippopotamus, i. 106 
 
 Sick list, i. 216; of stations, ii. 306; men, 
 ii. 248 ; shamming at A^ivi, ii. 222 
 
 Sickness, 1. 212 ; causes ecnsidered, ii. 
 286, sqfj. ; prevention of, ii. 311 
 
 Siemens, Dr. W.. i. 34 
 
 Sierra Leone, i. 57, 59 ; ii. 236, 297, 320 
 
 Signals ot natives, ii. 158 
 
 Siluru.<t, bearded, ii. 160 
 
 Silver, ii. 375 
 
 Sina, or measure for cloth, ii. 22 
 I Singa fish of Tanganika, ii. 160 
 
 Sims, Dr., i. 496 
 
 Sittings of the Berlin Conference, ii. 391- 
 403 
 
 Siwa-Siwa, chief of Bakurau, ii. 162, 164 
 I Skins of animals, ii. 354 
 ' Skipper, impi)rtance ot' an efficient, i. 70 
 j Slave raiding, elfects of, ii. 360 
 1 Slave-trade, i. 14, 15; suppression of the,
 
 INDEX. 
 
 479 
 
 15; trade, the, i. 90.97, 152 ; atLoanda, 
 i. 451 ; efi'c ct on population, ii. 343 
 
 Slave-traders on tlie Congo, i. 113: from 
 the Suudan, ii. 122 ; news of, ii. 135 ; on 
 the Conixo, ii. 139, 140 ; terrible scenes, 
 ii. 140-150; tradi rs overtaken, ii. 142; 
 raids of, ii. 144, 145 ; numbers in a gan^', 
 ii. 145; jjl under taken by, ii. 147; cap- 
 tives of, ii. 148, 149; extent of country 
 ravaged hy, ii. 149 ; instigators of, ii. 
 150, 151 
 
 Phi vers at work, ii. 121. 121 
 
 Slaves sacrificed, 180-182 
 
 Slavery, at Boma, i. 90 ; an escape from, 
 i. 200 
 
 Smallpo.x, ii. 15 
 
 Snails, ii. 2 
 
 Snider rifles, i. 47 
 
 Soil, richness of the, i. 393 
 
 "Sojering," ii. 251 
 
 Souiio, rebellion in, i. 12 : 82. 83 
 
 Soudanese slave-traders, ii. 122 227 
 
 Soudi (if Turn, i. 251, 252, 253 ' 
 
 Soundings at Vivi, i. 128, 129; on the 
 C.ugo, i. 402 
 
 Soups ii. 322 
 
 Sovereignty ceded to the Association, ii. 
 225 
 
 Snake skin girdles, ii. Ill 
 
 ."-nakes, i. 204 
 
 Spaces, health of open, ii. 302 
 
 Sparhawk, Mr. Augustus, i. 145, 154, 159, 
 196 
 
 Spear-grass, i. 423 
 
 Speke, ii. 385 
 
 Spliynx Rock, ii. 211 
 
 Spitting-snakes, i. 204 
 
 Squabbles to be avoided, i. 46 
 
 Stables, i. 153 
 
 Staff, complaints from the, i. 70, 71 
 
 at Vivi, i. 159 ; re-organisation v.i 
 
 Vivi, ii. 223 
 
 Stanley and Bula Matari, difference be- 
 tween, ii. 28 
 
 Stanley Falls, i. 70, 148 ; ii. 56, 75, 154- 
 156, 340. 343, 358 ; character of trade 
 at, ii. 160 ; palaver a!, ii. 101, 102 ; 
 choosing a site. ii. 102 ; clearing the 
 site, ii. 105: Falls Station, improve- 
 ment at, ii. 275 
 
 ■ Pooh i. 31, 86, 96, 159, 191, 216, 
 
 225, 234, 268, 270, 387, 388, 389, 445, 
 477, 478, 481, 488. 507, 514; ii. 2, 3, 
 5, 22, 49, 61, 214, 289, 302, 342, 343, 345 ; 
 distant view of, i. 290 ; description of, 
 i. 390 ; Pool markets, i. 421 ; mission- 
 aries at, i. 490; division of, i. 203; 
 monthly supply to, ii. 272 
 
 Starvation, approaching, i. 302 
 
 Stations, instructions r garding, i. 27 
 
 on Lake 'I'anganika, i. 35 ; on ihe 
 
 east of Africa, i. 30 ; hosjiitable missions 
 oJ^ i. 37 ; scientific missions of, i. 37 
 
 influence of in suppressing the slave- 
 trade, i. 37 ; commonwealth, i. 54 ; 
 establishing, i. 190; defensive measures 
 at a, i. 370 ; m( asurcs for .«u])pi rling, 
 i. 465 ; neglect by leaders, i. 469; de- 
 struction of two, ii. 50; a well-governed, 
 ii. 72 ; founding, ii. 75 ; the last formed, 
 ii. 160; a pretty, ii. 212, 213; (f^uii)- 
 ment ftir, ii. 243 ; in neglect and jiros- 
 peritv, ii. 245 ; success of Stanley Falls, 
 ii. 275; unluallliy, ii. 287, 288, 290- 
 292, 299-301 ; sick list of, ii. 306 ; sites 
 of, ii. 319, 320 
 
 Steam communication, instructions re- 
 garding, i. 27 
 
 Stettmer.s trading, i. 91, 92; the harbingers 
 of trade, i. 254 ; transported overland, 
 i. 182, 227, 228, ii. 204; first on the 
 Upper Congo, i. 375 ; on the Congo, 
 tflfect of largo, ii. 7, 8, 9; surprise the 
 natives, ii. 12, 16, 29, 105 ; for the Congo, 
 ii. 367 
 
 Cove, i. 379 
 
 Steel lighters, i. 68 
 
 Stephanieville, i. 470, 477 
 
 Sterile scenes, i. 204, 205 
 
 Still Haven, Stanley Kails, ii. 103 
 
 Stimulants, craving for, ii. 241 ; absence 
 of, ii. 242 ; abuse of, ii. 251, 252, 253, 
 254 
 
 Stink-wood, ii. 5 
 
 Stipa tenaccissima, ii. 354 
 
 Stocking Islantl, i. 82, 89 
 
 Stores, i. 153; conveyance of, i. 155, 182, 
 210, 211, 214; list of, i. 285; <.f the 
 Kx( edition, i. 68 ; for the Upper Congo 
 Expedition, list of, 501, 502; for an ex- 
 pedition, ii. 70 ; h ft at Stanley Falls, 
 ii. 165 ; sent monthly to Stanley I'ool, 
 ii. 272 
 
 Storms, 1. 201, 227, 337, 418, 437, 438 ; ii. 
 95, 90. 98, 137 
 
 Story of Ngalycma's life, i. 348, 349 
 
 Stoiy, a hypocritical, ii. 41 
 
 Strauch. Colon. 1, i. 28, 39, 42, 43, 46, 52, 
 5d, 189 ; ii. 378, 394 
 
 Strength of the expedition, i. 378 
 
 Stri/chnas, ii. 358 
 
 Subsidies to chiefs, i. 54 
 
 Sugar, i. 414 ; ii. 357, 375 
 
 Suicide of 31. Luksic, 489 
 
 Suki, i. 315 
 
 Sun, avoiding exposure to the, ii. 323; ob- 
 servations of the. i. 205 
 
 Sun-bird, ii. 6 
 
 Sun-fever, ii. 322 
 
 Sunday, a dny of rest, i. 230 
 
 Sundi, i. 176 
 
 Sungi) Maji of Bumba, ii. 107 
 
 Sunshine, Atiican, i. 94, 95 
 
 Sunstroke, ii. 322; precautious against, ii. 
 315 
 
 *' Superstitions" of natives, 28, 2.1, 62
 
 480 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 "Susceptibilities" on tlie Congo, i. 72 ; ii. 
 
 240, 270 
 Susi, Livingstone's head man, i. 310, 318, 
 
 335, 345, 379 
 Suspicion a'lcl distrust among natives, 
 
 dinger of, i. 109, 170 
 Suzeniintv of chiefs, i. 18 
 Swinburne, Mr. A. D , i. 57, 58, 145, 150, 
 
 l'.)G, 208, 213. 218, 219. 221, 239, 240, 
 
 496 ; ii. 289 ; his services, ii. 257, 558 
 Switzti-laud, a holiday in, i. 23 
 Sword, Makoko's, i. 332 
 Swordtmiths, ii. 35G 
 
 Tabnra, i. 40, 42 
 
 Tactics against Ngalyema, i. 334 
 
 Tiimarinds, ii. 5 
 
 " Tandelny," ii. 89 
 
 Tanganika, Lake, i. 7, 20, 35, 37, 40, 41, 
 
 43, 44. 46 ; ii. 359. 363 
 
 • • territory, extent of, ii. 362 
 
 Tariff's, danger of excessive, i. 464 
 
 Tea as a beverage, ii. 322 
 
 Teak, African, i. 192 ; ii. 30, 67 
 
 Temperance, ii. 325, 329 
 
 Temperature, ii. 282, 314, 316-318, 330, 331 
 
 Tendelay, i. 206 
 
 Teneriffe donkeys, i. 225 
 
 Tents, making new, i. 279 
 
 Territories of the Congo basin, ii. 365 
 
 Territory ceded to the Portuguese, i. 12 
 
 The au lait, ii. 324 
 
 Thefts at Iboko, and return of stolen 
 
 goods, ii. 180 
 Thermometer readings, i. 203. 213 
 Thieving natives, ii. 84 ; at Iboko, ii. 173, 
 
 174 
 Tliompson, Captain, i. 57, 105-107 
 Thys, Captain, ii. 378 
 Tides on tlie Congo, i. 87 
 Tiger skin, trick with a, ii. 107 
 Time bill, fiora the sea to Yivi, 1. 116; 
 
 occupied in journeys, i. 191 
 Times, Tlie, i. 58 
 Tinned meats, i. 284; ii. 322 
 Tippling, ii. 319 
 
 Tippn Tib, an Arab trader, ii. 154, 351 
 Tis.lel, Mr. W. H.. ii. .396 
 Tobacci), ii. 364, 375 
 Tomatoes, ii. 213 
 Tonics, ii. 325 
 Tools and stores carried by our exi^edition, 
 
 i. 503 
 "Topeis," ii. 251, 252 
 Topography, i. 172, 173. 175.176, 179-184, 
 
 192, 258, 287. 290. 352-355. 395 397, 
 
 412, 413, 513, 514; ii. 4, 17. 18, 46, 47, 
 
 78. 341, sqq. ; of Vivl, i. 126, 136, 140 
 Torch, U.M.S.. i. 86 (note) 
 Tortoise shell, ii. 354 
 T'ltela, king of Congo, i. 17 
 " Touri-t " engineers, i. 209 
 Trachrjlobum, ii. 353 
 
 Track.s, herd, i. 201 
 
 native, i. 192 
 
 Trale and barter, articles for African, i. 
 1.56, 157 
 
 Trade, factory, i. 74, 75; at Vivl, i. 156; 
 competition, i. 800 ; Congoese, shrewd- 
 ness in, i. 137 ; demanded at Nganza, 
 ii. 99 ; the coming of the whites means, 
 i. 168; in gunpowder, i. 75 ; native eager- 
 ness for, i. 384 ; ii. 367 ; of West Atrica, 
 amornit of, ii. 3G6 ; probabilities of iti- 
 crcnscd, ii. 367; lousiiig llie spirit of, 
 ii.376; routes, ii. 342 ; tiible of possible, 
 at new factories, ii. 310 ; talk, i. 214; 
 witli natives, conduct of, i. 99, 100 ; 
 feasibility of, i. 463 ; visions of future, 
 i. 127 
 
 Traders, ivory, character of, i. 387 
 
 , jealousy of, 309 ; misrepresented by 
 
 missionarii s, i. 100 ; of tlie Upper Congo, 
 tlie champion, ii. 21-23 ; on the Kwa, 
 i. 415 
 
 Trailing at Boleko, ii. 83; at Leopold- 
 ville, i. 380. 383, 384 
 
 eanoe.s, ii. 79 
 
 communities of Arabs, ii. 360, 363 
 
 companies, i. 29 
 
 in ivory, i. 383,' 384 
 
 stations at Bcma, i. 91 
 
 steamers, i. 91, 92 
 
 Traditional origin of Byyanzi, ii. 1 
 
 Traffic at Nsanga Ferry, i. 479 
 
 Transport of steamers overland, ii. 264; 
 enlistment of natives for, ii. 225 
 
 Travelling, dangers of, ii. 317; rate of, 
 i. 215, 241, 269, 270 
 
 Treasury at Le'opoldville, low state of tlie, 
 i. 483 
 
 Treaties -with native chiefs, i. 473-477, 
 495 ; ii. 48. 379, 380 ; forms of, ii. 195- 
 197, 205, 206 
 
 Treaty with Vivi chiefs, i. 137, 138, 155, 
 156 
 
 Trees, ancient, i. 316 ; or groves a sign of 
 vil]a'.jes, 1. 62 ; planting as a protection, 
 ii. 311 
 
 Tributaries of the Congo, length of, ii. 344- 
 352; tlieir length, ii 347 
 
 Tribute, i. 49 
 
 Tropical heat, ii. 282 
 
 islands, character of, i. 457 
 
 scenes, ii. 91-93 
 
 Tropics, bodily changes in the. i. 65 : the 
 best food for, ii. 294 ; conditions of life 
 in the, i. 85 ; drugs for the, ii. 325. 327 ; 
 food in the, ii. 321-324, 329 ; he.ltii in 
 the. Dr. Marlin's advice, ii. 329 : mode 
 of life in the, i. 65, 67; clothes for the, 
 ii. 326 
 
 Troup, air. Jolm Rose, ii. 224, 272, 274 
 
 Trouville, i. 23 
 
 Trucks for machinery, i. 198 
 
 Tsetse, i. 419
 
 INDEX. 
 
 481 
 
 Tuckey's, Captain, account of tlie slave- 
 trade, i. 14 ; 173 ; expedition of, i. 5, 6, 
 102, 120, 121 ; ii. 317 ; its losses, i. 6, 7 ; 
 its results, i. 7 
 
 " Tuckey's furthest," i. 184 
 
 Tugurambusa Hills, ii. 151, 152 
 
 Tunduwa Point, i. 114, 120 
 
 Turtle doves, i. 419 
 
 Twiss, Sir Travers, on treaties, ii. 380 
 
 Two Palm Point, i. 51G 
 
 Typhoid fever, i. 212 
 
 'J'yplops, i. 205 
 
 Uango-Ango, ii. 400 
 
 Ubangi, Kiver, ii. 345 ; a popidous place, 
 
 ii. 1, 13, 21, 23, 354 ; swordsmiths, ii. 
 356 
 TTbengo, district ii. 176 
 Ubika warriors, ii. 98 
 
 Piiver, ii. 171 
 
 Ufipa, ii. 363 
 
 Ufuvu Kiver, i. 318, 321 
 
 Ugangi, ii. 47 
 
 Ugogo, i. 45, 49 
 
 Uguhha, i. 43 
 
 Ugunda, i. 46 
 
 Uhha, ii. 362, 364 
 
 Ujiji, i. 40-42, 216; cattle, ii. 361; 363, 
 
 364 
 Ukatakura, ii. 97 
 
 Ukawenda, ii. 364 ! 
 
 TIkele, ii. 171 
 
 Ukumiia district, ii. 176 I 
 
 Uledi, i. 251 | 
 
 Ulindi River, ii. 358, 359 j 
 
 Ulungu Mountains, i. 175, 179, ISO, 205 i 
 Umaneh Town, ii. 124, 125 | 
 
 Fmangi, ii. 98, 171 | 
 
 Uraari, ii. 39, 42 ; a guide, ii. 44 i 
 
 Ungende, ii. 11 ! 
 
 Unhealthy stations, ii. 287, 288, 290, 291, 
 
 299-301 
 United States, co-operation of the, i. 36 ; 
 
 ii. 380 ; action of the, ii. 381, 382 
 Unkuri, i. 432 
 
 Unyamwezi, i. 39, 40 ; ii. 363 ' 
 
 Uuyauyembe', expedition to, i. 39, 40, 41, I 
 
 46, 48 I 
 
 Upiti, a chief, ii. 58, 61 i 
 
 Upoto, ii. 22, 60 j 
 
 Hills, ii. 99, 103, 171 ! 
 
 Upper Cojigo discovered by Stanley, i. 37; 
 
 356; communication with the sea, i. 
 
 463, 464 
 Urainbo, Mirando, King of, i. 39, 43 
 Uranga, ii. 76-78 ; etiusive welcome at, ii. 
 
 176 
 Urundi cattle, ii. 361, 3G2, 364 j 
 
 Urungu, ii. 364 | 
 
 Ururu, a chief, i. 518, 519 ; ii. 57 
 Usansi, i. 326-331 ; Mountain, i. 390 
 Usige, ii. 362; cattle, ii. 311 
 Usimbi District, ii. 176 
 
 Usindi, ii. 19, 21, 23, 49, .68, 69, 182 
 
 Uvana, Banza, i. 208 
 
 Uvira iron-works, ii. 3(54 
 
 Uyanzi, i. 511, 512, 513; markets, i. 421 
 
 Valcke', Lieut., i. 237-210, 283, 286, 311, 
 382, 449, 477, 480, 481, 488, 489, 509 ; ii. 
 51, 53, 223 ; his services, ii. 261-264 
 
 Valley stations, unhealthy, ii. 299-301 
 
 Value of ivory, i. 380, 384 
 
 of probable trade at new factories, 
 
 ii. 370, 871 
 
 Van Bogaarte, Major, i. 239 
 
 Van de Velde, Lieut., i. 473-476 ; ii. 225 
 
 Van den Heuvel, Dr., ii. 53, 191 
 
 Vangele, Lieut., ii. 38, 71, 177, 181, 264, 
 267, 289 
 
 Van Schuman Herr, i. 471 
 
 Vapour, pestilential, ii. 300, 301 
 
 Vegetables, i. 103, 148, 381, 393 ; ii. 71, 
 243, 246, 258, 357 
 
 Vegetation, effects of fire upon, i. 94 
 
 Venetian beads, i. 30 
 
 Versteeg, M., i. 35 
 
 Vetch, Major Francis, ii. 272, 273, 355 
 
 Veterans on the coast, i. 73 
 
 Viboiido, ii. 360 
 
 Victoria Nyanza, i. 20 
 
 Villages, native, i. 315; on the Upper 
 Congo, ii. 11, 12, 15 ; waim invitation to, 
 ii. 30; on the Ikelemba, ii. 36; on the 
 Congo, ii. 45 ; deserted, ii. 138 ; devas- 
 tated by Arabs, ii. 139-141, 148 ; in easily 
 defended jDositions, ii. 172; healthy sites 
 of native, ii. 302, 303 
 
 Ville cVAnvers steamer, ii. 225 
 
 " Vinda by the river," i. 112 
 
 Vinda-le-Nzaddi, i. 112 
 
 Visions of future track, i. 127 
 
 Vivi, i. 70, 113, 114-116, 127, 128, 144- 
 147,149,152,153,159-162,167, 181, 189, 
 197, 207, 208, 210-215, 220, 225, 234, 422, 
 513 ; ii. 56, 215, 218, 219, 289, 291, 298, 
 304; founding the station, i. 118-126, 
 197; topography, i. 126, 136, 140; 
 chiefs, i. 123, 129, 130, 142 ; aborigines, 
 i. 130 ; extent of territory of, i. 135, 136 ; 
 its recommendations, i. 136, 138; treniy 
 with chiefs, i. 155, 156; trade, i. 156; 
 staff at, i. 159; anel Isangila, proposed 
 railway between, i. 186, 187; to Ndambi 
 Ml)ongo, i. 192 ; Isangila to, i. 239 ; 
 messengers sent to, i. 251; recruits at, 
 i. 278 ; resignation of a chief, i. 376 ; 
 no progress at, i. 447; eleparture fiom, 
 i. 449 ; return to, i. 468 ; neglect of, i. 
 469, 470 ; quarrels at, i. 489 ; troubles 
 at, ii. 52; more iri-egularities at. ii. 187, 
 nothing accomplished, ii. 221, 224 ; 
 shamming sick at, ii. 222 ; leorganisation 
 of staff, ii. 223; removal of the station, 
 ii. 223; progress cf the new station, ii. 
 227 ; railway at, li. 227 ; situation of 
 
 YoL. II.— 31
 
 482 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 old, ii. 287; distunce from tlie sea, ii. 
 
 339 
 Viva Hill, i. 13^. 141, 145, 146, 150, 161, 
 
 162 
 Mavungii, i. 123, 129, 132, 138, 1)3, 
 
 163 
 
 EapiJs, i. 128 ; ii. 218 
 
 Nkii, a chief, i. 130 
 
 Volga, comparisou to, ii. 
 Vombo, ii. 214 
 Vou Mechow, ii. 387 
 Voonda, i. 250 ; ii. 209, 214, 22.5 
 
 Wabaiigi, ii. 43 
 
 Wabika tribe, ii. 172 
 
 Wabuina people, i. 419 
 
 Wadi Kehani, i. 238, 345, 379 
 
 AVages, uative surpriso at, i. 143, 144 
 
 Waffogo, i. 49 
 
 AVaglails, i. 43G; ii. G 
 
 Waliha tribe, ii. 363 
 
 AVajiJi sailors, i. 43; tiibe, ii. 363 
 
 Wanibuiidii, au inland people, i. 305, 319, 
 320, 323, 495 
 
 AVami lliver, i. 44, 58 
 
 AVampoko Kivcr, ii. 51 
 
 AVane Kirundu, ii. 360 
 
 Mikimgu, ii. 156 
 
 Itukura lisberuien, ii. 154 
 
 ■ Kiisari, ii. 157 
 
 ■ Sirouga, ii. 157 
 
 Wangata, ii. 37, 38, 39, 42 
 
 AVangwaua, i. 45-48 
 
 AVanuuu, ii. 4 
 
 AVauya-Kuauda tribe, ii. 363 
 
 Wauyamwezi ptople, i. 46-48 ; ii. 363 
 
 AVar, daily expected, i. 361-366 ; preven- 
 tion of, i. 380 ; natives preparing for, 
 i. 524; ii. 113,114; objections to, i. 
 526, 527 ; native, ii. 23-25 ; at Irebu. ii. 
 42-45 ; burying a, ii. 45 ; with Eolobo, 
 ii. 57-61 ; indemnity, ii. 61 ; among 
 natives, slight causes for, ii. 62 ; effects 
 on population, ii. 343 ; da^ice of natives, 
 ii. 35 ; internecine, desolating efftct of, 
 i. 173 
 
 AA'ar-fetish, a curious, i. 340 
 
 AVarlike threats of Ngalyema, i. 332-334 
 
 AVare, another name lor AVcllt' lUver, 
 
 AV'aruudi tribe, ii. 363 
 
 AVatei course, searcli for a, i. 178 
 
 AV'ater-drinking. excessive, ii. 315-317 
 
 AVatson, Sir Ihomas, on tiee-planting, ii. 
 311 
 
 AVatumba of IMusangaland, ii. 109 
 
 AVatwa, dwarfs, the, ii. 47 ; ivoiy sold by, 
 ii. 48 
 
 AVax, ii. 364 
 
 Wazige tribe, ii. 363 
 
 AV'callh of ivory trading chiefs, i. 310-311 
 
 A\'eaver-bird,s, i. 436 
 
 AVebb-Lualaba region, extent of, ii. 340, 
 358 
 
 AVebb-Liialaba Eiver, navigation of the, 
 
 ii. 359 
 AVeissman, Lieut., ii. 351, 387 
 AVelcoiiie at Ikengo, ii. 30 
 AVcUe lliver, ii. 126, sq^. ; identical with 
 
 the liiyerre', ii. 130 
 AVclle-Makua Eiver, ii. 110 
 AVellington,Duke of, on Indian life, ii. 295 
 Weuya fishermen, ii. 154 
 AVerre, another name tir AV^ellc' Eiver. 
 AVest African Livingstone Search Expedi- 
 tion, i. 13 
 AVet clothes, danger of, ii. 326 ; exposure 
 
 to, ii. 285 ; flannels, ii. 283, 285, 369 
 AVheat, ii. 375 
 AA'hip-snakes, i. 204 
 AVhirlpools, i. 106 
 AVhisky, ii. 251, 252, 319 
 " AVliite Man's Grave," ii. 320 
 AA'illing hands a necessity, ii. 240 
 AVind obL-ervations, ii. 310, 331-333 
 AVinds, cold, i. 210, 211, 264 ; ii. 172, 
 
 298 
 AVine, ii. 242 ; moderate use of, ii. 254, 
 
 282, 295 
 AVing-clappers, i. 207 
 AVinton, Sir Francis de, ii. 227 
 AVitchcraft, punishment of, i. 380 
 AVoerman, Herr, ii. 394 
 AVnman, a notable, 425, 426 
 AVomcn, nude, ii. 100 
 
 of Africa, the, i. 425 
 
 AVood I'oint, i. 83, 85 
 
 cutting, ii. 9 
 
 AVork, a year's, i. 240 ; neglected at Vivi, 
 
 ii. 221, 222 ; shirking, ii. 240, 242 ; on 
 
 the Congo, ii. 252 ; honour of, ii. 278, 
 
 279 ; hours for outdoor, ii. 314 
 AVorkers, unintelligent, ii. 249, 250 
 AVorking day, duration of our, i. 149 
 force, weakness of, i. 191 ; nuuibcrs 
 
 of our, i. 196 
 AVorkmanship, native, ii. 123 
 AV'orkiiien, agreement about native, i. 1G9 ; 
 
 shelter for outdoor, ii. 315 
 AVreck of a canoe, ii. 49 
 AVy-yanzi people, i. 428, 443 ; ii. 14, 23, 
 
 '60\ 60, 63, 64, 302 ; custom of succession, 
 
 i. 520 
 
 Yakkiis, the, invasion : see Ajakkas. 
 
 Yakongo village, ii. 103 
 
 Yakui, ii. 125 
 
 Yakusa spe irs, ii. 356 
 
 Yalulima tiibe, ii. Ill, 354; swordsmiths, 
 
 ii. 356 
 Yambi vilhige, ii. 126 
 Yambinga, town, ii. 107-109 
 Yambuii, ii. 127 
 Yambula, 518,525 ; ii. 57-60 
 A'ambuniba town, ii. 127 
 A'nmbnngu village, ii. 112 
 Yambuya village, ii. 129
 
 inde:s:. 
 
 483 
 
 Yamu-ningiii village, ii. 110 
 Yannu, i. 4H2 
 Yangambi, ii. 151 
 Yangassa, a chief of Nzabi, i. 310 
 Yaukau on Itimbiri, ii. 100 
 Yanzi, Chief of Wane Sirongn, ii. 157 
 Yaporo district, ii. 141 
 Yaruche, ii. 152 
 Yarukuinbe town, ii. 152 
 Yaryembi, ii. 152 
 
 Yavuuga, a desolated village, ii. 141 
 Yellala, i. 102, 113, 160, 105, 179; falls, i. 
 "202, 203; ii. 218 ; mountain, i. 205; ii. 
 217 
 Yellow wood, ii. 30 
 
 Yomburri, a desolated lown, ii. 139, 141 
 Youno-blood, Mr., i. 04, 73 
 Youthful indulgence, ii. 282, 283 
 
 Ynmbila, a guide, ii. 82, 8G, 88, 97, 98, 100, 
 112, 110, 117, 140, 182 
 
 Zaire, the, Portuguese name of the Congo, 
 i. 2, 202 ; described by a Capiicliin father 
 i. 4 ; Tuckey's description of the, i. 5, G 
 
 Zanzibar, 28, 29, 35, 37, 39, 43-45, 47, 48 
 Ihe Sultan of, i. 49 ; tlie Prince of, i. 58 
 
 Zauzibaris, i. 49, 59, 07, 1-JO, 150, 203, 
 212, 216, 277, 278, 311, 445, 4G2 ; ii. 97 
 144 ; sent iiome, i. 449 
 
 Zareeba or boma, i. 46 
 
 Zari : see Znire. 
 
 Zebra, ii. 241 
 
 Zinga, i. 287, 313-31G 
 
 Zingeli, i. 46 
 
 Zombo, ii. 312 
 
 Zuuga chya-Idi, i. 105 
 
 THE ENDo
 
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 ings, obtained from bis Faitbful Servants Cbuma and Susi. By Horace 
 Waller, F.R.G.S., Rector of Twywell, Northampton. Witb Maps and 
 Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Sheep, $6 00. Cheap Popular Edition, 
 8vo, Clotb, with Map and Illustrations, .fi2 50. 
 
 Livingstone's Expedition to the Zambesi. 
 
 Narrative of an Expedition to the Zambesi and its Tributaries ; and of 
 tbe Discovery of the Lakes Shirwa and Nyassa. 1858-1864. By David 
 and Charles Livingstone. With Map and Illustrations. 8vo, Clotb, 
 |5 00; Sbeep, $5 50. 
 
 Long's Central Africa. 
 
 Central Africa : Naked Truths of Naked People. An Account of Expe- 
 ditious to tbe Lake Victoria Nyanza and tbe Makraka Niam-Niam, West 
 of the Bahr-El-Abiad (White Nile). By Col. C. Chaille Long, of the 
 Egyptian Staff. Illustrated from Col. Long's own Sketches. With Map. 
 8vo, Clotb,$2 50.
 
 2 Valuable WorJcs of Exploration and Adventure. 
 
 Cameron's Across Africa. 
 
 Across Africa. By VEiiXKY Lovett Cameron, C.B., D.C.L., Com- 
 mander Royal Navy, Gold Medalist Eoyal Geographical Society, etc. 
 With a Map and iinmerous Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00. 
 
 Dii Chaillirs AshaiigO'Laiid. 
 
 A Journey to Ashango-Land, and Farther Peuetration into Equatorial 
 Africa. By Paul B. Du Chaillu. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00 ; 
 Sheep, $5 50 ; Half Calf, $7 25. 
 
 Schweinfiirtli's Heart of Africa.^ 
 
 The Heart of Africa; or, Three Years' Travels and Adventures in the 
 Unexplored Regions of the Centre of Africa. From 1868 to 1871. By 
 Dr. Geoug Sciiweixfurth. Translated by Ellen E. Frewer. With 
 an Introduction by WixwoOD Reade. Illustrated by about 130 Wood- 
 cuts from Drawings made by the Author, and with Two Maps. 2 vols., 
 8vo, Cloth, $8 00. 
 
 Speke's Africa. 
 
 Journal of the Discovery of the Source of the Nile. By Joiix Haxxixg 
 Speke, Captain H. M. ludiau Army, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the 
 Royal Geographical Society, Hon. Corresponding Member and Gold Med- 
 alist of the French Geographical Society, etc. With Maps aud Portraits 
 and numerous Illustrations, chiefly from Drawings by Captain Graxt. 
 8vo,Cloth,$4 03; Sheep, $4 50. 
 
 Burton's Lake Regions of Central Africa. 
 
 The Lake Regions of Central Africa. A Picture of Exploration. By 
 Captain Richard F. Burton. Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, 
 $3 50. 
 
 Baker's Ismailia. 
 
 Ismail'ia: a Narrative of the Expedition to Central Africa for the Sup- 
 pression of the Slave - Trade, organized by Ismail, Khedive of Egypt. 
 By Sir Samuel White Baker, Pasha, M.A., F.R.S., F.R.G.S., Major- 
 Geueral of the Ottoman Empire, late Governor-General of the Equatorial 
 Nile Basin, etc., etc. With Maps, Portraits, and upwards of 50 full-page 
 Illustrations by Zwecker and Durand. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00; Half Calf, 
 %1 25. 
 
 Lady Blnnt's Bedouin Tribes of the Euphrates. 
 
 Bedouin Tribes of the Euphrates. By Lady Axxe Blunt. Edited, 
 with a Preface and some Account of the Arabs and their Horses, by 
 W. S. B. Map and Sketches by the Author. 8vo, Cloth, ^2 50.
 
 Valnalile Works of Exploration and Adventure. 3 
 
 Reade's Savage Africa. 
 
 Savage Africa : being the Narrative of a Tour in Equatorial, Sontli-wcst- 
 eru,and Nortli-westeru Africa; with Notes on the Habits of the Gorilhi; 
 on the Existence of Unicorns and Tailed Men ; ou the Slave-Tradc ; on 
 the Origin, Character, and Capabilities of the Negro, and on the Future 
 Civilization of Western Africa. By W. WiNWOOD Eeade. With Illus- 
 trations and a Map. 8vo, Cloth, |4 00 ; Sheep, $4 50 ; Half Calf, $6 25. 
 
 Prime's Boat-Life iu Egypt and Nubia. 
 
 Boat -Life in Egypt and Nubia. By William C. Prime. Illustrated. 
 12mo, Cloth, %2 00. 
 
 Cnrtis's Nile Notes of a Howadji. 
 
 Nile Notes of a Howadji. By George William Curtis. 12aio, Cloth, 
 
 $1 50. 
 
 A Naturalist's Wanderings in the Eastern Arcliipelngo. 
 
 A Narrative of Travel and Exploration from 1878 to 1883. By Hexry O. 
 Forres, F.R.G.S., etc. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $5 00. {Just FuhlhUed.) 
 
 Wallace's Malay Archipelago. 
 
 The Malay Archipelago : the Land of the Orang-Utau and the Bird of 
 Paradise. A Narrative of Travel, 1854-62. With Studies of Man and 
 • Nature. By Alfred Russel Wallace. With Maps and numerous 
 Illustrations. New Edition. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 50. 
 
 Wallace's Island Life. 
 
 Island Life; or, The Phenomena of Insular Faunas and Floras, Avith 
 their Causes. Including an entire Revision of the Problem of Geological 
 Climates. By Alfred Russel Wallace. Witli Illustrations and Mai)S. 
 8vo, Cloth, $4 00. 
 
 Wallace's Geographical Distribution of Animals. 
 
 The Geographical Distribution of Animals. With a Study of the Rela- 
 tions of Living and Extinct Faunas, as elucidating the Past Changes of 
 the Earth's Surface. By Alfred Russel Wallace. With Colored 
 Maps and numerous Illustrations by Zwecker. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $10 00. 
 
 Viimbcry's Centrtil Asia. 
 
 Travels iu Central Asia : being the Account of the Journey from Teheran 
 across the Turkoman Desert, on the Eastern Shore of the Caspian, to 
 Khiva, Bokhara, and Samarcand, performed in the year 1883. By Ar- 
 MiNius Vambery, Member of the Hungarian Academy of Pesth, by whom 
 he was sent on this Scientific Mission. With Maps and Woodcuts. 8vo, 
 Cloth, $4 50 ; Half Calf, $6 75.
 
 4 Valuable Worls of Exploration and Adventure. 
 
 Thomson's Malacca, Indo-China, and China. 
 
 The Straits of Malacca, ludo-Cliiiin, and China; or, Ten Years' Travels, 
 Adventures, and Ecsidence Abroad. By J. THOMSON. With over GO 
 
 Illustrations. 8vo, Clot]),S4 00. 
 
 MacGahan's Campaigning on the Oaiis. 
 
 Cainpaigning ou the Oxns and the Fall of Khiva. By J. A. MacGahan. 
 With Map and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, iif3 50. 
 
 Biirnnby's Ride lo Khiva. 
 
 A Kide to Khiva: Travels and Adventures in Central Asia. By Frkd 
 BuRNABY (Captain Eoyal Horse Guards). With Maps and an Appendix, 
 containing, among other Information, a Series of March-routes, compiled 
 from a Russian Work. 12nio, Cloth, $2 00. 
 
 Cni'zon's Armenia and Erzcroom. 
 
 Armenia: a Year at Erzeroom, and on tlie P' rentiers of Russia, Turkey, 
 and Persia. By the Hon. Robert Curzon. Map and Illustrations. 
 12mo, Cloth, $1 25. 
 
 Vincent's Land of the White Elephant. 
 
 The Laud of the White Elephant: Sights and Scenes in South-eastern 
 Asia. A Personal Narrative of Travel and Adventure in Farther India, 
 embracing the Countries of Burma, Siam, Cambodia, and Cochin-China 
 (1H71-2). By Frank Yixcext, Jr. Magnificently Illustrated with Maps, 
 Plans, and numerous Woodcuts. 8vo, Cloth, Gilt Tops, $2 50. 
 
 Vincent's Throngh and Throngh the Tropics. 
 
 Tlirongh and Through the Tropics : Thirty Thousand Miles of Travel in 
 Oceanica, Australasia, and India. By Feakk Yin'CEXT, Jr. r2mo, Cloth, 
 $1 50. 
 
 Thomson's Sonthern Palesline and Jernsalem. 
 
 The Land and the Book : Southern Palestine and Jerusalem. By Will- 
 iam M. TiiOMSOXjD.D., Forty-five Years a Missionary in Syria and Pal- 
 estine. 140 Illustrations and Maps. Square Bvo, Cloth, $6 00; Sheep, 
 |7 00; Half Morocco, §8 50; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, $10 00. 
 
 Tliomson's Central Palestine and Pha'nicia. 
 
 The Land and the Book : Central Palestine and Phoenicia. By William 
 M. Thomson, D.D. 130 Illustrations and Maps. Square Bvo, Cloth, 
 $6 00 ; Sheep, $7 00 ; Half Morocco, $8 50 ; Full Morocco, Gilt Edges, 
 $10 00. 
 
 Thomson's East of the Jordan. 
 
 The Laud and the Book: East of the Jordan. By William M. TllOM- 
 sox, D.D. Illustrations and Maps. Square 8vo. {Xeurhj Ilcaihj).
 
 Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure. 5 
 
 Prime's Tciit'Lifc in llic Holy Land. 
 
 Tent-Life iu the Holy Laud. By William C. Phi.mk. Illustrated. 12mo, 
 
 Clotli,$2 00. 
 
 Pike's SnIj'Ti'opical Rambles. 
 
 Sub-Tropical Rambles iu the Laud of tlie Apliauapteryx : Persoual Expe- 
 riences, Adventures, and Wanderings iu and about the Island of Mau- 
 ritius. By Nicholas Pike. Haudsoniely Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth,.«;3 £0. 
 
 Van-Lennep's Bible Lands. 
 
 Bible Lauds: their Modern Customs and Manners Illustrative of Script- 
 ure. By the Rev. Heniiy J. Van-Lennep, D.D. Illustrated Avitli up- 
 wards of 350 Wood Eugravings and two Colored Maps. 838 pp., 8vo, 
 Cloth, $5 00 ,• Sheep, $6 00 ; Half Calf, $8 00. 
 
 Macgregor's Rob Roy on the Jordan. 
 
 The Rob Roy on the Jordan, Nile, Red Sea, and Gennesareth, etc. A 
 Canoe Cruise iu Palestine and Egypt, and the Waters of Damascus. By 
 J. Macgregor, M.A. With Maps and Illustrations. Crown 8vo, Cloth, 
 
 ' $2 50. 
 
 Bartlelt's From Egypt to Palestine. 
 
 From Egypt to Palestine, through Sinai, the Wilderness, and the South 
 Country. Observations of a Journey made with Special Reference to the 
 History of the Israelites. By S. C. Baktlett, D.D., LL.D., President of 
 Dartmoutli College, and lately Professor in the Chicago Theological Sem- 
 inary. With Ma^is and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $i3 50. 
 
 Schliemann's Ilios. 
 
 Ilios, the City and Country of the Trojans. The Results of Researches 
 and Discoveries on the Site of Troy and throughout the Troad iu the 
 years 1871-'72-'73-'78-'79 ; including an Autobiography of the Author. 
 By Dr. Henuy Sciiliemanx, F.S.A., F.R.I. British Architects; Author of 
 "Troy and its Remains," "Myceuse," etc. With a Preface, Appendices, 
 and Notes by Professors Rudolf Virchow, Max Miiller, A. H. Sayce, J. P. 
 Mahaffy, H. Brugscli-Bey, P. Aschersou, M. A. Postolaccas, M. E. Buruouf, 
 Mr. F. Calvert, and Mr. A. J. DuflQeld. With Maps, Plans, and about 1800 
 Illustrations. Imperial 8vo, Cloth, $12 00; Half Morocco, §15 00. 
 
 Schliemann's Troja. 
 
 Troja. Results of the Latest Researches and Discoveries on the Site of 
 Homer's Troy, and iu the Heroic Tumuli and other Sites, made in the 
 year 1882, and a Narrative of a Journey iu the Troad in 1881. By Dr. 
 Henry Schliemanx, Author of " Ilios," etc. Preface by Professor A. H. 
 Sayce. With 1.50 Woodcuts and 4 Maps and Plans, pp. xl., 434. 8vo, 
 Cloth, $7 50; Half Morocco, $10 00.
 
 6 Valaahle Works of Exploration and Adventure. 
 
 Myers's Remains of Lost Empires. 
 
 Remains of Lost Empires: Sketclics of the Ruins of P;ilmyra, Nineveli, 
 Babylon, autl Persepolis, with some Notes ou India and the Cashmcrian 
 Himalayas. By P. V. N. Myers, A.M. Illustrated, bvo, Cloth, .$3 CO. 
 
 Tristram's Land of Moab : 
 
 The Land of Moab : Travels and Discoveries on the East Side of Ihe 
 Dead Sea and the Jordan. By H. B. Tkistram, M.A., L.L.D., F.R.S., Hon- 
 orary Canon of Durham. With a Chapter on the Persian Palace of Ma- 
 shita, by James Fergusox, F.R.S. With Map and Illustrations. Crown 
 8vo, Cloth, $2 50. 
 
 Cesnola's Cyprns. 
 
 Cyprns: its Ancient Cities, Tombs, and Temples. A Narrative of Re- 
 searches and Excavations during Ten Years' Residence in that Island. 
 By General Louis Palma di Cesnola, Member of the Royal Academy of 
 Sciences, Turin ; Hon. Member of the Royal Society of Litei'atnre, London, 
 etc. With Portrait, Maps, and 400 Illustrations. 8vo, Clotli, Extra, Gilt 
 Tops and Uncut Edges, .$7 50 ; Half Calf, $10 GO. 
 
 Layard's Discoveries at Nineveh. 
 
 Discoveries among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon ; with Travels in 
 Armenia, Kurdistan, and the Desert : being the result of a Second Expe- 
 dition, undertaken for the Trustees of the British Museum. By Austen 
 Hexry Layard, M.P. With Maiis, Plans, and Illustration, fe'vo. Cloth, 
 
 U 00. 
 
 Davis's Cartilage. 
 
 Carthage and her Remains: being an Account of the Excavations and 
 Researches ou the Site of the Phceuician Metropolis, in Africa and other 
 Adjacent Places. Conducted under the Auspices of Her Majesty's Govern- 
 ment. By Dr. N. Davis, F.R.G.S. Profusely Illustrated with Maps, Wood- 
 cuts, Chromo-Lithographs, etc., etc. 8vo, Cloth,$4 00; Half Calf, $6 25. 
 
 Tiiomson's Vova«c of tlic '''Challcn«er.'' 
 
 The Voyage of the "Challenger.'' Tlie Atlantic: An Account of the 
 General Results of the Voyage during the Year 187.3 and tlie Early Part 
 of the Year 1876. By Sir C. Wyville Thomson, F.R.S. With a Por- 
 trait of the Author, many Colored Maps, Temperature Chart.s, and Illus- 
 trations. 2 vols., 8vo, Cloth, $12 00. 
 
 Spry's Cruise of the ''Cliallenocr." 
 
 The Cruise of Her Majesty's Ship "Challenger." Voyages over many 
 Seas, Scenes in many Lands. By W. J. J. Spry, R.N. With Maps and 
 Illustrations. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 00.
 
 Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure. 
 
 The Boy Travellers. By Tlios. W. Knox. Six Parts. 
 Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $-3 00 each. 
 
 Piirt I. Adventures of Two Youths iu a Jouruey to Japan and China. 
 
 Part II. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Siam and Java. 
 With Descriptions of Cochin-China, Cambodia, Sumatra, and the Mahvy 
 Archipelago. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth,.$3 50. 
 
 Part III. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Ceylon and 
 India. With Descriptious of Borneo, the Philippiuc Islands, and Burmali. 
 
 Part IV. Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Egypt and the 
 Holy Laud. 
 
 Part V. Adveutures of Two Youths in a Jouruey through Central 
 Africa. 
 
 Part VI. Adventures of Two Youths iu a Journey througli South 
 America. {Ncarhj lieadi/.) 
 
 Hunting Adventures on Land and Sea. By Thos. W. 
 Knox. Two Parts. Copiously Illustrated. 8vo, 
 Cloth, S2 50 each. 
 
 Part I. The Young Nimrods in North America. 
 Part II. The Young Nimrods Around the World. 
 
 Knox's Voyage of the "Vivian." 
 
 The Voyage of the "Vivian" to the North Pole and Beyond. Being the 
 Adventures of Two Youths iu the Opeu Polar Sea. By Thomas W. Knox. 
 
 llhistrated. 8vo, Cloth, $2 50. 
 
 Du Chaillu's Land of the Midnight Sun. 
 
 The Land of the Midnight Suu. Summer and Winter Journeys through 
 Sweden, Norway, Lapland, and Northern Finland. By Paul B. Du 
 Chaillu. With Map and 235 Illustrations. In Two Volumes. 8vo, 
 Cloth, $7 50; Half Calf, $12 00. 
 
 Laniont's Seasons with the Sea-Horses. 
 
 Seasons with the Sea-IIorses; or. Sporting Adventures iu the Northern 
 Seas. By James Lamont, F.G.S. With Map aud Illustrations. 8vo, 
 Clotli, $3 00. 
 
 Tyson's Arctic Experiences. 
 
 Arctic Experiences: containing Captain George E.Tyson's Wonderful 
 Drift on the Ice-Floe, n History of the Polaris Expedition, the Cruise of 
 tlie Tigress, and Eescue of the Polaris Survivors. To which is added a 
 General Arctic Chronology. Edited by E. Vale. With Map and numer- 
 ous Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $4 00.
 
 8 Valuable IVorliS of Exploration and Adventure. 
 
 Hayes's Land of Desolation. 
 
 The Land of Desolation : being a Personal Narrative of Observation and 
 Adventure ia Greenland. By Isaac I. Hayes, M.D., Author of "The 
 Open Polar Sea," etc. With Illustrations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 75. 
 
 Davis's Niiiirod of the Sea. 
 
 Nimrod of the Sea ; or, the American Whaleman. By William M. Davis. 
 With many Illustrations. 12ino, Cloth, $2 00. 
 
 Busli's Reindeer, Dogs, and Snow-shoes. 
 
 Keiudeer, Dogs, and Snow-shoes : a Journal of Siberian Travel and Ex- 
 
 'o''> 
 
 ploratious made in the Years 186.V67. By Riciiaud J. Busii, late of the 
 Kusso-Americau Telegraph Expedition. Illustrated. Cro\YU 8vo, Cloth, 
 $3 00. 
 
 Bishop Haven's Mexico. 
 
 Our Next-Door Neighbor. Recent Sketches of Mexico. By the Rev. 
 Gilbert Haven, D.D., Bishop in the M. E. Church. With Maps and 
 Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $3 50. 
 
 Bishop's Old Mexico and her Lost Provinces. 
 
 A Journey in Mexico, Southern California, and Arizona, by Way of Cuba. 
 By William Henry Bishop, Author of " Detmold," " The House of a 
 Merchant Prince," etc. With numerous Illustrations, chiefly from 
 Sketches by the Author. 12mo, Cloth, $2 00. 
 
 Sqii 
 
 licr's Nicaragua. 
 
 Nicaragua: its People, Scenery, Monuments, Resources, Condition, and 
 Proposed Canal. With One Hundred Maps and Illustrations. By E. G. 
 Squier. 8vo, Cloth, $4 00. 
 
 Squier's Peru. 
 
 Peru : Incidents of Travel and Exploration in the Land of tlie lucas. By 
 E. G. Squier, M.A., F.S.A., late U. S. Commissioner to Peru. Illustrated. 
 8vo, Cloth, $5 00. 
 
 Orton's Andes and the Amazon. 
 
 The Andes aud the Amazon ; or. Across the Continent of South America. 
 By James Orton, Ph.D., late Professor of Natural History in Vassar 
 College, Poughkeepsie, N. Y. ; Corresponding Member of the Academy of 
 Natural Sciences, Philadelphia, aud of the Lyceum of Natural History, 
 N. Y. Third Edition, Revised and Enlarged, containing Notes of a Sec- 
 ond Journey Across the Continent from Parii to Lima and Lake Titicaca. 
 With two Maps and numerous Illustrations. Bvo, Cloth, $3 00.
 
 Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure. 9 
 
 Wliyiiipcr's Alaska. 
 
 Travel and Adventure in the Territory of Alaska, formerly Eussiau 
 America— now ceded to tlie United States — and in various Other Parts 
 of the North Pacitic, By FREDEniCK Whymper. With Map and Illus- 
 trations. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $2 50. 
 
 IngcrsoH's Knocking Round llic Rockies. 
 
 Knocking Eound the Eockies. By Ernest Ingersoll. 8vo, Cloth, $2 00, 
 
 Burton's City of tlie Saints. 
 
 The City of the Saints; and Across the Eocky Mountains to California. 
 By Captain Eiciiard F. Burton, Fellow and Gold Medalist of the Eoyal 
 Geographical Societies of France and England; H. M. Consul in West 
 Africa. Maps and numerous Illustrations. 8vo, Clotii, $3 50. 
 
 Nordlioff's California. 
 
 California: a Book for Travellers and Settlers. By Charles Nordiioff. 
 A New Edition. With Maps and Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, $2 00. 
 
 Hayes's New Colorado, 
 
 New Colorado and the Sante Fe Trail. By A. A. Hayes, Jr. Illustrated. 
 Svo, Cloth, $2 50. 
 
 Short's North x\mericans of Antiquity. 
 
 The North Americans of Antiquity. Their Origin, Migrations, and Type 
 of Civilization Considered. By John T. Short. Illustrated. Bvo, Cloth, 
 $3 00. 
 
 Murphy's Sporting Adventures in the Far West. 
 
 Sporting Adventures in the Far West. By J. M. Murphy. Illustrated. 
 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. 
 
 Gillmore's Prairie and Forest. 
 
 Prairie and Forest: a Description of the Game of North America, with 
 Personal Adventures in their Pursuit. By Parker Gillmore. Illus- 
 trated. 12rao, Cloth, $1 50. 
 
 Hazard's Santo Domingo. 
 
 Santo Domingo, Past and Present; with a Glance at Hayti. By Samuel 
 Hazard, Maps and Illustrations. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $3 50. 
 
 Griffis's The Mikado's Empire. 
 
 The Mikado's Empire. History of Japan, from 660 B.C. to 1872 A.D., 
 and Personal Experiences, Ohservations, and Studies in Japan, 1870-1874. 
 New Edition, with a Supplementary Chapter on Japan in 1883. By Will- 
 iam E. GiUFFis, A.M., late of the Imperial University of Tokio, Japan, 
 Copiously Illustrated. Svo, Cloth, $4 00 ; Half Calf, $6 25.
 
 10 Valuahle Works of SJxploi'ation and Adventure. 
 
 ArnoUVs Through Pcrsiii by Caravan. 
 
 Through Persia by Caravan. By Arthur Arnold. 12ino, Cloth, $1 75. 
 
 Darwin's Voyage of a Naturalist. 
 
 Journal of Eesearches iuto the Natural Historj- and Geology of the Coun- 
 tries Visited during the Voyage of H.M.S. "Beagle" Round the World, 
 under the Command of Captain Fitzro\', R.N. By Charles Darwin, 
 M.A., F.R.S. New Edition. 2 vols., 12mo, Cloth, $2 00. 
 
 What Mr. Darwin Saw. 
 
 What Mr. Darwin Saw in his Voyage round the World in the Ship " Bea- 
 gle." With Illustrations. 8vo, Cloth, p 00. 
 
 Benjamin's Atlantic Islands. 
 
 The Atlantic Islands as Resorts for Health and Pleasure. By S. G. W. 
 Benjamin. Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, $3 00. 
 
 Biart's Involuntary Voyage. 
 
 An Involuntary^ Voyage. By LuciEN Biart. Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, 
 
 $1 25. 
 
 Biart's Adventures of a Young Naturalist. 
 
 The Adventures of a Young Naturalist. . By Lucien Biart. Edited and 
 Adapted by Parker Gillmore. With 117 Illustrations. 12nio, Cloth, 
 
 $1 75. 
 
 Sniiles's Round the World. 
 
 Round the World: including a Residence in Victoria, and a Journey by 
 Rail acro.ss North America. By a Boy. Edited by Samuel Smiles. Il- 
 lustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. 
 
 Symonds's Sketches and Studies in Southern Europe. 
 
 Sketches and Studies in Southern Europe. By John Addington Sy- 
 MONDs. In Two Volumes. Square 16mo, Cloth, $4 00. 
 
 Lathrop's Spanish Vistas. 
 
 Spanish Vistas. By George Parsons Latiirop. Illustrated by Charles 
 S. Reinhart. 8vo, Ornamental Cover, Gilt Edges, $3 00. 
 
 Boughton's Sketching Rambles in Holland. 
 
 Sketching Rambles in Holland. By George H. Boughton, A.R.A. 
 Beautifully and Profusely Illustrated with W^ood-engravings from Draw- 
 ings by the Author and Edwin A. Abbey. With Two Artists' Full-page 
 Proofs, Japanese Paper, without Letters. Pages xvi., 342. Square, Bvo, 
 Illuminated Cloth, Uncut Edges, and Gilt Top, $5 00; BrownCloth, Un- 
 cut Edges and Gilt Top, $5 00; Full Gilt Edges, ^5 25.
 
 Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure. 11 
 
 Ciirtis's The Howjuljl in Syria. 
 
 The Howadjl in Syria. By Geokge AVilliaji Curtis. 12mo, Cloth, 
 
 $1 50. 
 
 Olipliaiil's China and Japan. 
 
 Narrative of the Earl of Elgin's Mission to China an(lJapan,iu the Years 
 1857, '58, '59. By Laukexce Oliphaxt, Private Secretary to Lord Elgin. 
 Illustrated. 8vo, Cloth, p 50. 
 
 Newman's " From Dan lo Bcersheba." 
 
 "From Dan to Beersheba;" or. The Laud of rroinise as it now Appears. 
 Including a Description of the Boundaries, Topography, Agriculture, 
 Antiquities, Cities, and Present Inhabitants of that Wonderful Land. 
 Witii Illustrations of the Eeniaikable Accuracy of the Sacred Writers in 
 their Allusions to their Native Country. By the Eev. J. P. Newmax, D.D. 
 Maps aild Engravings. Pinio, Cloth, %l 75. 
 
 Gii'oniere's Philippine Islands. 
 
 Twenty Years in the PliiUppines. By Paul de la Gi'ROXiIire. Kevised 
 and Extended by the Author expressly for this Translation. Illustrated. 
 12mo, Cloth, Ijl 50. 
 
 Drake's New England Coast. 
 
 Nooks ami Corners of the New England Coast. By Samuel Adams 
 Drake. With numerous Illustrations. Square 8vo, Cloth, $3 50; Half 
 Calf, $5 75. 
 
 Drake's Heart of ihe While Moniitains. 
 
 Tlie Heart of the White Mountains. By Samuel Adams Drake, Author 
 of " Nooks and Corners of the New England Coast." Illustrated by W. 
 Hamilton Gibsox, Author of " Pastoral Days." 4to, Illuminated Cloth, 
 
 Gilt Etlges, §7 50. Tourist's Edition, $3 00. 
 
 Dilkc's Greater Britain. 
 
 Greater Britain : a Kecord of Travel in English-speaking Countries dur- 
 ing 1863 and 1867. By Charles Wextwoutii Dilke. Maps and Illus- 
 trations. 12mo, Cloth, $1 00. 
 
 Lady Belcher's Mnliny of the Bonnty. 
 
 Some Account of the Mutineers of the Bounty and their Descendants in 
 Pitcairu and Norfolk Islands. By Lady Belcher. Illustrated. 12mo, 
 Cl-oth, ,«il 50.
 
 12 Valuable Works of Exploration and Adventure. 
 
 Waring's Tyrol, and the Skirt of the Alps. 
 
 Tyrol, and the .Skirt of the Alps. By GeokG2 E. Waking, Jr. Illus- 
 trated. 8vo, Cloth, $3 00. 
 
 Dixon's Free Russia. 
 
 Free Kussia. By W. IIkpwortii Dixox, Author of " Her Majesty's Tow- 
 er," etc. With Two Illustrations. Crowu «vo, $i! OU. 
 
 Prime's Round liic World. 
 
 Arouud tho World. By Edward D. G. Pkime, D.D. With immeroua 
 Illustratious. Crown 8vo, Cloth, $3 00. 
 
 Hcpwortli's Starboard and Port. 
 
 starboard and Port: tho "Xettic" Along Shore. A Siiinnicrs Yacht 
 Cruise aloug the Coasts of Maine and Labrador. By Geoiigi: II. llicp- 
 WORTH. Illustrated. 12nio, Cloth, $1 75. 
 
 Kingslcy's West Indies. 
 
 At Last: a Christmas in the West Indies, By Charles Kixgsley. 
 Illustrated. 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. 
 
 Du Cliaillu's Country of the Dwarfs. 
 
 The Country of the Dwarfs. By Paul B. Dl' Ciiaillu. Illustrated. 
 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. 
 
 Du Cliaillu's Gorilla Country. 
 
 stories of the Gorilhx Country. By Paul B. Dl" Ciiaillc. Illustrated. 
 12mo, Cloth, $1 50. 
 
 Du Cliaillu's My x^pingi Kini^doni. 
 
 My Apingi Kingdom: -with Life iu the Great Sahara, and Sketches of the 
 Chase of the Ostrich, Hyena, etc. By Paul B. Du Chaillu. Illlustra- 
 ted. 12uio, Cloth, $1 50. 
 
 Du Cliaillu's Wild Life. 
 
 Wild Life under the Equator. By Paul B. Du Ciiaillu. Illustrated. 
 12mo, Cloth, §1 50. 
 
 Du Cliaillu's Lost iu the Jun«Ie. 
 
 Lost in the Jungle. By Paul B. Du Chaillu, Illustrated. 12mo, 
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