ADDRESS THE FIRST AXNI7AL MKETINCJ IN PIIILADKLI'HIA, Sr.i-r. C,, 18(15. BY JOHN L. HAYES, SECRETARY. WITH SECRETARTS REPORT AND TABLES. CAMBRIDGE : I'KKSS OF JOHN WILSON AND SONS. 1865. ADDRESS BEFORE THE THE FIRST ANNUAL MEETING IN PHILADELPHIA, SEPT. 6, 1865. BY JOHN L. HAYES, SECRETARY. WITH SECRETARTS REPORT AND TABLES. CAMBRIDGE : PRESS OF JOHN WILSON AND SONS. 18G5. ADDRESS. THE occasion of the first annual meeting of the " National Association of Wool Manufacturers " would seem to demand from your Secretary something more than a meagre statement of transactions of the Association necessarily limited by the brief period since its organization, and has suggested, as the most suitable subject for an address which shall have a wider scope than a mere official report, the consideration of the national importance of the wool manufacture and the means of developing it. The principal articles of the wealth of a nation are the yearly products of those industries which supply food and clothing, and the instruments by which they are produced and diffused. The distribution of these products constitutes the commerce of the world. Of the four branches of textile industry which clothe mankind, the one to which we are devoted is the most ancient, the most important to the inhabi- tants of the temperate regions, and, therefore, to the most civilized portions of mankind, and at present the second in commercial importance. We cannot fail to benefit ourselves by impressing upon our own minds even familiar facts and considerations which tend to exalt our industry, and stimulate us to advance and ennoble it ; and it is the highest duty to our cause to enlighten the public mind as to the influence which this industry has had and may have in its future possi- ble development, in promoting the wealth of the country and comfort of the people, in identifying the interests of distant States, in sustaining the public credit, and securing a real national independence. Among the well-ordered adaptations of nature for the well- being of the human race, one of the most beneficent is that which has supplied the temperate regions with an animal fitted to produce at the same time food and the most essential clothing of its inhabitants, and one whose culture is a most valuable accessory to general agriculture. So early did man avail himself of this gift, that we find sheep mentioned in the most ancient writings, in the first chapters of Genesis, in the Persian Zend Avesta, in the Indian Vedas, and in the Chinese Chou-king, and represented on the monuments of Egypt. According to Geoffrey Saint-Hilaire, the highest au- thority on the origin of species, the specific source of our domestic sheep is unknown. All that is certain is, that the present races originated in the East ; the primitive names, Bock and Bone, found in the most ancient Asiatic languages, being preserved in our term Buck* This species is endowed with a plasticity, so to speak, so remarkable, that it is more susceptible of modification than any other animal, except the dog,f so that " the breeder," as Lord Somerville says, " may chalk out upon a wall a form perfect in itself, and then give it existence." \ Hence peculi- arities are developed in the coverings of different races pro- duced by man, which make that distinctness and variety of fabric which characterize the wool manufacture ; and thus we have the coarse Cordova and Donskoi wools for our carpets ; the noble electoral wools of Saxony and Silesia for our broad- cloths ; the strong middle wools of the Southdown and our * Bulletin de la Soci^t^ Imperiale Zoologique d'Acclimatation, t. 6, p. 502. t Cuvier. Animal Kingdom, translated by H. McMurtrie. New York, 1831. Vol. i. p. 199. t Bischoff ou Wool, Woollens, and Sheep. London, 1842. p. 380. native sheep for blankets ; the soft, long, and finer merino wools of France, Vermont, and Michigan, for thibets, delaines, and shawls ; the longer and coarser combing wools of the Cotswold and Leicester races for worsteds in their thousand applications ; the very long and bright-haired lustre wools of Lincolnshire for alpaca fabrics ; and, lastly, the precious silky Mauchamp wool, the recent triumph of French agronomic skill, rivalling even the Cashmere, for shawls, and the Angora, for Utrecht velvets.* The fibre of wool, rendered more perfect than any other by the more complete chemical elaborations and assimilations of the animal economy, has the most highly developed organic structure. While the specific gravity of cotton is 1-47, of linen 1-50, and of silk 1-30, the specific gravity of wool is but l-26.f It is, therefore, of all fibrous substances the best non- conductor, and its tissues the lightest and warmest and most healthful. The perfection of the fibre is shown in its inde- structibleness and durability. Cotton and flax may be ulti- mately reduced to mere woody fibre. Wool is almost incapable of mechanical destruction. The existence of " shoddy," the term of reproach to the woollen manufacturers, is the strongest proof of the excellence and indestructibility of its original fibre. Unlike silk, the product of an inferior animal organiza- tion, which is straight and entirely structureless, the fibre of wool is crisped or spirally curled, and is made up of cells of different kinds, the interior forming the pith, and the ex- terior consisting of serrated rings imbricated over each other, having under the microscope the appearance of a series of thimbles with uneven edges inserted into each other ; these ser- ratures, as well as the spiral curls, being more or less distinct accordin to the fineness of the fibre. We have here the * See note on p. 55. t lire's Philosophy of Manufactures, p. 81, el teq. t Youatt on Sheep, p. 94. Argument by George Harding in Supreme Court of United States. Burr vs. Duryee et als. "Hat Body Case," p. 113. Report of Flax aud Hemp Commission, p. 68. 6 cause of the invaluable quality of felting, to which we owe our hats and broadcloths. Flax and cotton composed of mere woody fibre are opaque and dull in aspect ; woolly fibre, when freed from the peculiar soapy oil or yolk which nour- ishes and protects its growth, has a natural polish which protects it from soiling, and in some varieties gives a positively lustrous beauty to its fabrics ; the vegetable fibres receive with difficulty permanent dyes, and sometimes curiously exhibit their refractory nature in contrast with wool. The fibres, acci- dentally detached from cotton or hempen strings, with which fleeces are sometimes bound, when incorporated with the wool- len fabric, refuse the dye, and often ruin whole products of the loom. On the other hand, all animal fibres have ready affini- ties with the chemical agents of the dyer. Wool especially, from its beautiful whiteness, itself the result of the ameliora- tion of the original black sheep, is unrivalled in its facility for receiving, and power of permanently retaining, color, as in the famous woollen Gobelin tapestries,* where over a thousand distinctly defined tones and hues are given to fabrics destined to be indestructible as works of art. Such are the qualities of fibre which have led every indus- trious nation to the culture of flocks as the first necessity of its people ; which have caused, in every manufacturing nation, the demand to constantly exceed the supply ; which have trans- planted colonies from the Cape of Good Hope to Australia, and have carried the shepherd-emigrant to the steppes of Rus- sia and the plains of La Plata ;f and which have brought the present production to such enormous figures as are given by recent German estimates, J giving to Great Britain an annual production of 260,000,000 pounds of wool ; to Germany, * Chevreiul on Colors. Translated from the French by John Spanton. London, 1858. p. 113. t See Southey on Colonial Wools, passim. J United-States Economist of June 10, 1865, which quotes from a writer in the Year-book of German Cattle Breeders. 200,000,000; France, 123,000,000; Spain, Italy, and Portugal, 119,000,000 ; European Russia, 125,000,000 ; making, in all Europe, 827,000,000 ; in Australia, South America, and South Africa, 157,000,000 ; the United States, 95,000,000 ; the Brit- ish North-American Provinces, 12,000,000 ; Asia, at a very general estimate, 470,000,000 ; Northern Africa, 49,000,000 : the aggregate production of wool in the whole globe amount- ing, by these estimates, to 1,610,000,000, or a pound and a quarter to each inhabitant, reckoned at twelve hundred and eighty-five million people.* In tracing the history of the woollen manufacture, we find that it had already attained considerable perfection with the Romans, who employed this material in almost all their gar- ments,! and with whom sheep were so abundant that a single patrician bequeathed, by will, two hundred thousand to Augus- tus.J The prices of the finer fabrics, however, were enormous. * Bulletin of American Geographical Society, 1865, p. 153. Hon. Fred. A. Conkling, in a paper on the Production and Consumption of Cotton, furnishes a table, prepared by Prof. A. J. Schem, in which the populations of all the countries on the globe using cotton exclusively are set down at 695,596,483. The populations which use cotton only partially (and, consequently, use more or less wool) are set down at 519,656,253. t " All the garments of both sexes were for many centuries made of wool exclu- sively; and, although silk and flax were introduced under the empire, they were never adopted by any large portion of the community." Ramsay's Elementary Manual of Roman Antiquities. London, 1860. p. 238. t Statistique des Peuples de Antiquite", par M. Moreau de Jonnes, t. ii. p. 464. The invaluable race of merino sheep is probably an inheritance of Roman civilization. The race most prized by the Romans was called the Tarrentine, from Tarrentum, a town settled by a Greek colony. They were also called Greek sheep. Their wool was of ex- ceeding fineness ; and they were protected by coverings of skins, and were also carefully housed, and often combed, and bathed with oil and wine. Hence they were very deli- cate. Columella, the most eminent agricultural writer of the Romans, who lived in the century before the Christian era, relates (De Re JRustica, lib. vii. chap. 2) that his paternal uncle, M. Columella, "a man of keen genius and an illustrious agriculturalist," transported from Cadiz to his farm-lands, which were in Boutica, comprehending a part of the present province of Estramadura, some wild rams of admirable whiteness brought from Africa, and crossed them with the covered or Tarrentine ewes. Their offspring, which had the paternal whiteness, being put to Tarrentine ewes, produced rams with a finer fleece. The progeny of these again retained the softness of the dam and the whiteness of the sire and grandsire (matemam mollititm, paternum et avituni colorem). Other agri- culturalists undoubtedly imitated Columella, and a stronger constitution was thus imparted s The Roman purple worn by the senators was made from wools of Italy, which, according to Pliny, were worth four dollars per pound of twelve ounces,* and which, of the same weight, were worth one hundred and sixty dollars, when colored with the Tyrian dye.f It is not strange, then, that Horace should boast of a gift to his mistress of fleeces twice dyed with the Tyrian murex.J The world has regretted, for many cen- turies, the loss of this imperial dye ; but within the last ten years, or no later than 1856, chemistry has produced from aniline, a product of worthless coal tar, a purple tint, resist- ing light, alkalis, and acids, and rivalling, upon the light worsted zephyrs of our simple maidens, the hue of the patrician mantle. The woollen industry disappeared with the incursions of the barbarians and the fall of the Roman Empire, or languished to the fine-fleeced but delicate sheep of ancient Italy. That this improvement was com- menced in ancient Spain is further established by the testimony of Strabo, who says, in his account of the geography of that country (lib. iii. chap. 2), that in his time, that of the Emperor Tiberius, wool of great fineness and beauty was exported from Truditania, a part of Boetica ; and that rams were sold in that province for improving the breed for a talent each, or about one thousand dollars. When the Roman Empire was overrun by the barbarians, the Tarrentine stock of Italy, being very tender, became extinct; but the improved stock of Boetica, living in the mountains, survived and perpetuated by the Moors, who, skilled in the textile arts, could appreciate its value, still exists as the merinos of Spain. If this view is correct, the merino race is the most important sur- viving relic of the material civilization of the Greeks and Romans. I shall be exou>nl for these remarks, which may be of little practical benefit, by those who appreciate the sentiment of Niebuhr, the great historian of Rome, " that he who calls what has vanished back into being, enjoys a bliss like that of creating." * Pliny's Natural History (lib. viii. chap. 73): Centennos nummos, or a hun- dred sesterces, a sesterce of the value of four cents. Allen's Classical Hand-book, p. 110. t Pliny's Natural History (lib. ix. chap. 63): Denariis milk, or a thousand denarii, a denarius of the value of sixteen cents. Allen's Classical Hand-book, p. 110. t Muricibus Tyriis iteratse vellera lanae, epod, 12-21. " It is no exaggeration to say that the introduction of this one color (the aniline purple) has been a greater boon to the dyer than all the other inventions of the last ten years put together. Not only is the hue yielded by the coal tar (purple) of a different and better kind than any before known: it is likewise so fast, that it may, with indigo blue and a few other colors, be considered as permanent." International Exhibition of 1862. Reports of Juries, Class 21. 9 only in domestic manufacture, or in the abbeys where the monks of the dark ages still pursued the arts necessary for their own comfort. This decline in the arts continued until the time of the Crusades, which effected a complete revolution in industry and commerce. The Crusaders* found in Asia the scattered fragments of the sciences and arts, and among others, the processes for making those rich fabrics which had formed the most luxurious vestments and furniture of the Romans.f The States of Italy were the first which availed themselves of these discoveries, making the mechanical arts auxiliary to the commerce which they had revived on the ancient course of navigation to the East. In the twelfth and thirteenth cen- turies, Florence, Venice, Pisa, and Genoa, had arrived at great perfection in manufactures. In those States we have the first brilliant illustration of the influence of the industrial arts upon the prosperity of the State. Florence owed her splendor to the woollen manufacture with which she supplied the world. :j: Machiavelli alludes to the sound of the moving shuttle which resounded in all her streets, and he mournfully contrasts the former cheerful hum of a busy industry with the stillness pre- vailing, after the loss of this manufacture, through the plague and change of traffic. It is no little boast for our indus- try that it was the source of the commerce and wealth whose magnificent fruits still survive in the wonders of Florentine art. * Mill's History of the Crusades, vol. ii. p. 346. t Metellus Scipio, in the accusation which he brought against Cato, stated that even in his time Biibylonian (Asiatic) coverings for couches were selling for 800,000 sesterces, or $128,000. In the time of Nero, they had risen to four million sesterces, $640,000. Pliny's Natural History, lib. viii. chap. 73. Some of the most ancient Asiatic forms survive unchanged in modern woollen fabrics, such as the palm patten.s of shawls. Specimens of Cashmere shawls, of the kind called Espouline in France, collected, in the year 835, by Theodolphus, Bishop of Orleans, are preserved in the archives of the Bishopric du Puy de Velay. Pastoral Life and Manufactures of the Ancients. New York, 1845. p. 94. J Millar's Historical Views of the English Government, vol. ii. p. 370. James's His- tory of the Worsted Manufacture, p. 20. Quarterly Review, January, 1821, p. 296. 2 10 The Netherlands, already advanced, as early as the tenth century, in the manufacture of linen, which their soil produced of admirable quality, readily appropriated from the Italians the arts of manufacturing wool. Favored by their internal water-carriage, which gave them supplies of material, and by the middle station of their ports in the foreign navigation of the maritime nations, they had outlets for their commodities in all parts of Europe. They supplied themselves with wool from England, to the vast amount of forty-five million pounds in some years, and were aided, at one period, in obtaining wool from Spain by the union of the sovereignties of Spain and the Netherlands under Charles V. Flanders continued for a long period to supply Europe with all the woollen cloths and stuffs demanded by luxury or taste, and was the veritable centre from which the arts of fabricating woollens spread in time to all the other industrious nations of Christendom.* Flemish wealth, derived mainly from this industry, was the envy of all Europe. Letters and the fine arts were encouraged and flour- ished, and the works of the Flemish, no less than the Floren- tine painters, survive to illustrate the great truth that the true source of the highest culture of a nation, and of its only immortal monuments, is its industrial prosperity. This sketch of the industry of Rome, Italy, and Flanders, is but introductory to that of the great nation from which we derive our language, institutions, and arts, and which, com- manding a foreign trade of not less than twenty-one hundred millions of dollars, and exporting annually her manufactures to the amount of six hundred and fifty millions of dollars,! must be first looked to for instruction and example by all nations who seek their own industrial development. We find that our own industry has played no mean part in securing England's commercial prosperity. * Hume's History of England, vol. ii. p. 398. Motley's Rise and Fall of the Dutch Republic, p. 36. Millar, sttpr. cit. t The Tariff Question, by Erastus B. Bigelow, p. 3. 11 The climate of England is wonderfully fitted for raising cer- tain breeds of sheep, and it is probable that our British ances- tors were employed in the domestic production of woollen goods from the earliest period that they had emerged into civi- lization. Names derived from textile occupations must have been early incorporated among English sirnames. The name rendered so familiar by its quaint calligraphy upon our Trea- sury notes, and that of New-England's great orator, are inherit- ed from the ancient spinners and websters, or weavers of Eng- land. Nevertheless, the English produced only common stuffs, and exported, in the eleventh century, more than half their wools to the Netherlands. In the early part of the fourteenth century, the English are spoken of as " only shepherds and wool merchants," and as " depending on the Netherlands, who were the only wool-weavers in Europe.* In the latter part of the fourteenth century, the manufacture of wool received its first impulse in England, and became firmly transplanted upon her soil by the protecting influence of Edward III., who thus added to his title of hero of Cressy, the prouder name of father of English commerce. The eyes of this enlightened sovereign were opened to one of those simple facts which Eng- land now expects to be invisible to all other nations. He saw, in the quaint words of the author of the " Golden Fleece," "that the subjects of the Duke of Burgundy, receiving the English wool at sixpence a pound, returned it, through the man- ufacture of that industrious people, in cloths at ten shillings, to the great enriching of that State, both in revenue to their sovereign and employment to their subjects. He at once proposed hdw to enrich his people, and to people his new con- quered dominions ; and both these he designed to effect by means of his English commodity, wool." f The first great step * The Pensionary De Witt, qiioted by Youatt. Sheep, their Breeds, &c., by Wil- liam Youatt, p. 205. t Smith's Memoirs of Wool, vol. i. p. 139. Youatt, p. 205. of Edward was to attract to England a large number of Flem- ish families initiated in the arts of fabricating woollen goods ; and it is said that " he not only royally performed his promises to them, but he likewise invested them with privileges and immunities beyond those of his native subjects." Seventy families were brought over in the first year. England became speedily enriched by " this treasury of foreigners," as Fuller styles them in his Church History. " Happy," says he,* " the yeoman's house into which one of these Dutchmen did enter, bringing industry and wealth along with him. Such who came in as strangers within doors, soon after went out bride- grooms and returned sons-in-laws, having married the daugh- ters of their landlords who first entertained them ; yea, those yeomen in whose houses they harbored, soon proceeded gentle- men, gaining them estates to themselves, arms and worship to their estates." During his great military preparations, Edward summoned a parliament, whose principal business it was to make laws for the encouragement of the woollen manufacture in England.f The exportation of rams was prohibited, and it was decreed that no foreign cloth manufactures should be re- ceived, and that no one even should wear cloth made beyond the sea. Through these measures the manufacture became so well established that the first export of English cloth dates from this reign. A tax upon importations was substituted for the prohibition, and in the twenty-eighth year of this reign the exports of cloths were triple the imports."^ * Fuller's Church History. London, 1842. Vol. i. p. 419. t Bischoff on Wool, &c., vol. i. p. 55. J In the sixth and seventh years of Elizabeth, the woollen manufacture had so much increased that the export of woollen goods to Antwerp alone, according to Cnm- den, amounted to 750,OOOZ. ; and the whole value of the exports in 1564 was 1,200,000?. (Smith, vol. i. p. 72), all fabricated of English wool. The vigor of the woollen trade at this period is attributed by Smith to the abundance of gold and silver, in consequence of the recent discovery of South America. Mr. Bigelow has shown that the chief causes of the large increase of British exports since 1853, usually attributed to the free- trade acts, are found outside of the tariff laws, and principally in the greatly increased 13 For five 'centuries the system of protection to the wool- manufacturers, inaugurated by Edward III., was continued by the succeeding sovereigns and parliaments of England. The abstract of laws relating to the growers of wool and the manu- facture thereof, made in 1772, enumerates three hundred and eleven laws,* all tending to one object, the encourage- ment of the manufacture. With this object the exportation of wool, after being several times suspended, was definitely prohibited in 1660, and so continued until the year 1825.f The exportation of fuller's earth was forbidden. The expor- tation of sheep was prohibited under the severest penalties ; and even sheep-shearing could not be carried on within five miles of the sea without the presence of a revenue officer. To secure the manufacturers against a monopoly of wool, the number of sheep to be kept by one person was limited to two thousand. || One statute required that all black cloth and mourning stuff worn at funerals should be made of British wool alone ; another, which was carried into full effect for one hundred and thirty years, or nearly to the present century, ordained that every person should be buried in a shroud com- posed of woollen cloth alone.^[ The export of woollen cloth from England to any foreign ports was permitted without a duty.** The export of woollen goods from Ireland, or any of the English Plantations in America, was prohibited.! f Upon the application of the London and Canterbury woollen weavers, the wearing of supply of gold, the annual produce of which has tripled since 1848. The correspond- ence between the periods of Elizabeth and Victoria is quite remarkable. The Tariff Question, p. 17. * Bischoff, vol. i. p. 6. See Bigelow's Tariff Question, p. 17. t Porter's Progress of the Nation. London, 1851. p. 168. J Youatt, p. 216. Bischoff, vol. i. p. 244. || Youatt, p. 216. TT Youatt, p. 224. ** First William and Mar}'. Bischoff, vol.J. p. 85. tt Tenth and Eleventh William 111., chap. 10. Bischoff, vol. i. p. 89. 14 Indian calicoes was forbidden, and afterwards,* when it was apprehended that the rising cotton manufacture might inter- fere with the great national industry of woollens, the use of British printed calicoes was restricted to those only of a blue color.f Even the great commercial companies of England lent their protecting influence. The powerful East-India Company, possessing the power to open an almost boundless market for woollen goods, made it an invariable rule that in the cloth which it exported, both the material and manufacture should be British. This rule was inflexible till 1828.$ The arts of diplomacy were not wanting on the part of England in aid of her favorite interest. At the close of the seventeenth cen- tury, Portugal, by interdicting the entry of foreign fabrics, had succeeded in supplying her own population and Brazil with woollen goods of her own manufacture^ In 1703, England, having in view principally the interests of the woollen manu- facture, made the famous Treaty of Methuen, by which, in consideration of certain favors to Portuguese wines, she secured the free admission to Portugal of her woollen goods. || The English historian might well say, " this treaty hath proved very advantageous to England, in the woollen trade particularly." ^[ But this treaty was a mortal blow to Portugal. Her manufacturing industry disappeared. While all Europe progresses, Portugal remains stationary. The few of her pro- ducts shown at the great Exhibition in 1862, were noticed only for the melancholy representation which they gave of her industry. The measures of protection which were most significant of * Bischoff, vol. i. p. 90. t Bischoff, vol. i. p. 97. | Report of Committee of House of Lords, 1828. Examination of Mr. Ireland. Smith's Memoirs, vol. i. p. 394. "I appeal to every person," says Smith, " that lived in Portugal from the year 1683 to 1703, during the time of the prohibition, whether Portugal did not make cloth enough for herself and Brazil." || Smith, vol. i. p. 394. Tf See Smollett's History of England, vol. i. p. 568. 15 the devotion of England to her manufacturing interests, were the prohibition, for nearly a century and a half, of the exporta- tion of British wool,* and the admission of foreign wool at a merely nominal, or very moderate duty, in spite of the violent reclamations of the landed aristocracy. In a v struggle of over a hundred years with the manufacturers, the landed proprietors had but one brief success, where they secured, for four years only viz., from 1819 to 1824 a tax upon foreign wool of six pence per pound. f It had become a deep-rooted sentiment of British statesmen of every party, that their highest duty to the State was the encouragement of their own manufactures, and, first of all, those of wool, for so many years their chief export, and peculiarly national staple, " eminently the foundation," as it was called, "of English riches," $ and "the flower and strength, the revenue and blood of England." The " wool sack," upon which the Lord Chancellor of England has sat for ages as the President of the House of Lords, is a symbolical tra- dition of the importance which the nation has always attached to the woollen industry. || It was declared by statute that '* wool and woollen manufactures, cloth, serge, baize, kerseys, and other stuffs, made or mixed with wool, are the greatest and * " The one sole reason why England obtained the mastery of the ocean, and com- mand of the world's business, is that she exported no raw material; and the reason why the Southern States went into ruin by the route of rebellion is because they exported nothing else." The Western States; their Pursuits and Policy, by Dr. William Elder, p. 20. t In 1802, a duty of 5s. 3d. sterling per cwt. was laid upon foreign wool. This was gradually raised till it reached 6s. 8d. per cwt. In 1819, the ministers wanted to raise 1,400/. by a tax on malt; and the landed aristocracy refused their assent unless a tax was laid on wool, and the tax of sixpence a pound was imposed, the bill having been hurried through Parliament before the manufacturers could be heard. Bischoff, vol. i. p. 452. { Sir Josiah Cliilds. Smith's Memoirs, vol. i. p. 157. Golden Fleece. 1656. Smith's Memoirs, vol. i. p. 139. || " The antiquitie of wool within this kingdom hath been beyond the memorie of man, so highly respected for those many Benefits therein that a customable use has always been observed to make it the seat of our wise learned judges in the sight of our noble Peers (in the Parliament House) to imprint the memorie of this worthy Com- moditie within the minds of those firm supporters and chief rulers of the land." John May, 1613. Smith's Memoirs, vol. i. p. 91. 16 most profitable commodities of the kingdom." * One of the greatest English lawyers, Mr. Lawes, afterwards Lord Ellen- borough, speaking of this interest before the House of Lords, said,f " to state to your Lordships the extent of the manufac- ture, would be to state that it is at least a third in point of export, that it is a fourth of the national income, as derived from all its various sources. Its magnitude is so important, its connections with the vital interests of the country so close and intimate, that it has been the principal object of attention in the framing of the statutes upon your rolls from the earliest period of any ascertained act of legislation of this country." The encouragement of this industry had received the sanction of the greatest of English names, even that of the founder of experimental philosophy. Lord Bacon, addressing the future ministers of his sovereign, patriotically exclaims, J " Let us advance the native commodities of our own kingdom, and emp/oifour own countrymen before strangers. Let us turn the wools of the land into cloths and stuffs of our own growth. It would set many thousands to work; and thereby one of the materials would, by industry, be multiplied to five, ten, and many times to twenty-five times more in value, being wrought." It was by such lessons and traditions as these that British legislators had become imbued with devotion to the woollen trade, as with loyalty to the throne. In the whole history of the world there is no such example of persistent national care, continued alike through all administrations, in peace and in war, under commonwealth and monarchy ; and thus " fondled, favored, and cherished," to use the words of Mr. Huskisson, the woollen manufacture in England has advanced, with constantly increasing prosperity, only, in mod- * Tenth and Eleventh William III., chap. 10. t Bischoff, vol. i. p. 323. \ Bischoff, vol. i. p. 321. From Mr. Lawes' speech. I do not find the passage in Lord Bacon's Works. Bischoff, vol. i. p. 5. 17 ern times, overshadowed by its own offspring, the cotton man- ufacture, and still surpasses that of all other nations in the quantity and value of its fabrics. " The rapid growth and prodigious magnitude of the cotton manufacture of Great Britain," for a century has not elapsed since its infancy, have been called " the most remarkable phe- nomena in the history of industry."* But it should be remembered that this industry was the natural offshoot from the woollen manufacture. Through the protection of four centuries afforded to the woollen trade mainly, and in a less degree, only because they were less important, to the linen and silk trades, England had become a nation of spinners and weavers, or of artisans subsidiary to them. The textile crafts had become, by hereditary transmission, as fixed as in the castes of India. The skill and taste for textile industry was already developed for application to a kindred fibre. Some of the first and most important inventions which ifave produced the won- derful results of the cotton manufacture, sprang directly from that of woollens. To instance one only; John Kay, residing in Colchester, where the woollen manufacture was then carried on, devised the fly-shuttle, by which double the quantity of doth, and of a better quality, could be produced by each work- man, and with less labor. The Yorkshire clothiers were the first to adopt his improvements, which form a part of every power-loom of the millions of silk, cotton, linen, and woollen- looms in all parts of the world. f The commerce and capital which supplied the raw material from abroad for the rising manufacture had grown up from the woollen trade principally ; but it had exerted a more important influence in making capi- talists familiar with the direct and incidental profits of maim facturing industry, and in assuring them that the favor of government, which had been extended for centuries to one> * McCulloch's Commercial Dictionary, article Cotton, t Brief Biographies of Inventors of Machines, by Bennett Woodcroft, p. 3. 3 18 would never be wanting for a kindred interest. Hence capital flowed by a natural transition into the new channel, and inven- tion found a fresh field for its creative skill under the patent system which England had inaugurated as a part of her pro- tective policy. The subject which I have proposed for this address, the national influence of our own peculiar manu- facture, finds its most brilliant example in the history of English industry, which no less illustrates the more important truth, that any industry, thoroughly incorporated in the nation- al existence, will have new offshoots and unexpected develop- ments, and may enrich a nation even more than by its own fruits, in opening fresh sources of productive power. Towards the close of the last century the woollen manufac- ture received in its turn the inventions first applied to cotton- spinning. They were, first of all, the great discovery of Watt, which furnished a motive-power everywhere applicable ; the roller-spinning of Paul, adopted by Arkwright, which furnished an automatic mechanism, instead of muscular force, which drew and twisted the fibre in a continuous thread ; the jenny of Hargreaves, which drew at once from ten to sixty or seventy threads ; the mule of Crompton, which increased the power of the spinner a hundred fold ; and the power-loom of Cartwright, which quadrupled the power of the weaver.* All these inven- tions, and what was equally important, the factory system of Arkwright, were applied, upon a large scale, to the woollen manufacture, first by Mr. Gott, who added the gig-mill for rais- ing the wool on the cloth, and shearing-frames worked also by power. These improvements gave a vast extension to the manufacture. The use of woollen tissues increased with the low price of production, which continued to advance with accelerated progress. At the end of the eighteenth century Great Britain already consumed in her fabrics ninety-four mil- lions of pounds of her own wool, and eight millions imported. * Woodcraft, p. 3, et seg. 19 In 1828, the number of sheep in Great Britain had increased one-fifth, and the average weight of the fleeces in equal pro- portion.* Mr. Bernoville, in his admirable work on the " In- dustry of Combed Wools," published in the report made to the French government on the labors of the French Commission, at the Universal Exposition of 1851, estimates the number of pounds of wool in Great Britain in 1851 at two hundred and eight million pounds, so that the production doubled in fifty years. This increase of production was caused partly by the increase of the number of sheep, but principally by the increase in the weight of fleeces. Within that period a genu- ine transformation has taken place in the English races. To attain the utmost possible weight of mutton, sheep are fed to their utmost capacity, and the increase of flesh is accompanied by a corresponding increase of wool, which, losing in fineness, has gained in strength, length, and brilliancy. While the domestic production has made such extraordinary progress, the importation has increased with equal rapidity. The eight million pounds in 1801 have risen successively from sixteen million pounds in 1821 to fifty-six millions in 1841, to eighty- three millions in 1851, having increased tenfold in fifty years. In 1859, the importation had reached one hundred and thirty- three millions.! There are no official statements of the amount or value of the whole production of British manufactures, or of the popu- lation employed in them ; we must, therefore, rely upon the very general estimates of the best authorities, which, however, differ so widely that we can merely approximate the totals of production in the woollen manufacture. Mr. Bernoville, in the work above quoted, estimating the mean value of the domestic production of wool in Great Britain at one franc twenty cen- * Porter's Progress of the Nation. London, 1851. p. 168. Industrie des Laines peign^es, par M. Bernoville, p. 11. Travaux de la Commission Fran9aise, vol. iv. t Bigelow's Tariff Question, Appendix, p. 198. 20 times the pound, and the imported wool at one franc seventy centimes, places the whole value of wool employed by British industry at 370,000,000 francs, or $74,000,000. He estimates that the value of this wool is increased once and a half times by the manufacture, and that the annual production of woollen fabrics in 1851 was 925,000,000 francs, or $185,000,000, and the domestic consumption 679,000,000 francs, or $135,000,000. Mr. Redgrave, one of her Majesty's Inspectors of Factories, estimates the value of the British woollen and worsted manu- factures in 1856 at 8183,492,725, and the domestic consump- tion in Great Britain, $111,366,160, for each person of its population at $4.25.* Mr. Simmonds, the editor of lire's " History of the Cotton Manufacture," estimates the total pro- duction of woollen goods in 1860 at $160,000,000, and the domestic consumption at one-half that amount. This estimate appears too small, and that of Mr. Redgrave seems most reli- able. Judging from the progress of exports, sixty millions of dollars in 1856, and eighty millions in 1860, the value of the woollen manufactures in the United Kingdom cannot be short of $200,000,000. The number of persons employed in the woollen industry, in all its ramifications, was estimated in 1841 at 245,000 persons. This number must have vastly increased in twenty years. Mr. Bernoville estimates them at 400,000 in 1851. Statistics have been procured, from time to time, by the inspectors of factories in reference to establishments under their supervision. They give the number employed in the wool manufacture in 1856, at 79,091 ; and in the worsted manufacture at 87,794; a total of 166,885. The num- ber employed in 1835 is stated at only 71,274. The number had more than doubled in twenty years, although the progres- sive employment of mechanical means has had a tendency to diminish the number of hands. Precise data are given only in * Bigelow's Tariff Question. Appendix, p. 199. 21 relation to establishments subject to the provisions of the Fac- tory Acts, which make the whole number employed in all the textile manufactures only 682,497. Mr. Redgrave estimates that there are 887,369 persons employed in textile fabrics, not subject to the provisions of the Factory Acts, which two classes have dependent upon them at least 3,000,000 unemployed persons, representing a total of 4,568,082 persons. Those employed in the woollen and worsted manufactures constitute very nearly a quarter of the whole number enumerated under the provisions of the Factory Acts, which would give to the woollen manufactures a population, depending upon them, of over one million. This immense progress in the manufacture of wool has been due principally to the advance in the manu- facture of combing wools or worsted, which now employ directly a larger number than fabrics of carded wool. This progress is best illustrated by the rapid increase of population around the manufacturing centres of the worsted trade. In the West Riding, where there was only a population of 593,000 inhabi- tants in 1801, it had risen, in 1841, to 1,154,000 ; it had increased at Halifax from 63,000 to 130,000 ; at Huddersfield from 14,000 to 38,000 ; at Leeds from 53,000 to 152,000. It is still more remarkable at Bradford, the great centre of the worsted trade. At the commencement of this century, when this town had a population of only 13,000 souls, all the wool was spun and woven in private houses of the workmen. In 1821, Bradford had doubled the number of its inhabitants, which were 26,000. By the introduction of power-looms in 1834, and afterwards the use of cotton warps in woollen fab- rics, and the employment of alpaca and Angora goat's wool, the manufacturing industry was so developed that it sustained in 1851 a population of 103,000, an increase of ninety thousand in half a century.* Such an increase in this country would * Bernoville's Industrie des Laines peignees, p. 22. James's History of Worsted Manufacture, p. 611, et. seq. 22 appear by no means remarkable ; but in England, where the question has been for centuries, how to employ the present population of each year, the increase is truly marvellous. One of the most interesting questions in the study of the philosophy of manufactures is their influence upon the com- fort of mankind in diminishing the cost of production. The amounts and values of British exports are instructive upon this question. One of the largest exportations of woollen tissues from Eng- land occurred in the year 1815, after relations had been estab- lished with this country, which had been interrupted by the war. It amounted to 9,381,000 in value, and 1,482,000 pieces, and twelve millions of yards. In 1851, it amounted to 2,637,000 pieces, and sixty-nine million yards. The number of pieces, comprising cloths, damasks, and stuffs in general, had almost doubled ; and the number of yards, consisting princi- pally of articles of wool and cotton, had more than quintupled. Yet the total value in 1851 was only 9,856,000, exceeding the exportation of 1 815 about half a million. The increase of cheapness consisted principally in fabrics of wool combined with cotton.* This progress in the cheapness of production has continued since 1851. It is estimated in the report of the International Exhibition of 1862,f from well authenticated data, that al- though there was a clear and established advance of twenty- five to twenty -eight per cent in the cost of wool between the prices of 1851 and 1862, the manufacturers had cheapened the prices of goods between the two periods from seven and a half to ten per cent, the quality and weight being the same. It is, perhaps, unnecessary to say that this increased cheapness of production is no peculiarity of English manufactures. The facts here mentioned illustrate a result which is sure to follow * Bernoville, p. 18. t International Exhibition of 1862. Report of Juries, Class 21. 23 from any well established manufacturing industry. An in- creased cheapness of production in England has been effected by two other causes, one of which certainly will be regarded by consumers with less favor. The first is, the use of cotton warps, which are used as a vehicle to extend the surface of wool to such a degree that millions of pounds of cotton are, as it were, plated with this material. Vast establishments in Lancashire are employed solely in making cotton warps, to be woven with wool into what are called union fabrics.* The second is, the combination of shoddy with wool. Twenty-five years ago, woollen rags were worth about <4 per ton, and were used only for manure. They are now worth, in England, .40 per ton, to be converted again into cloth. It is estimated that, in the neighborhood of Leeds, 7,000,000 to 8,000,000 yards of cloth, of the value of 815,000,000, are annually manu- factured from this material ; and, that if the supply of shoddy were stopped, it would close one-third of the woollen mills in the United Kingdom, and bring distress upon the West Rid- ing, in Yorkshire, as great as that lately suffered in Lanca- shire from the want of cotton. It is disclosed in the report on the London Exhibition of 1862, that sixty-five million pounds of shoddy are annually consumed in England, a greater quantity than the whole wool product in the United States, estimated at 60,264,913 pounds by the census of 1860 ! f It is one of the advantages of depending upon foreign impor- tation for our goods, that we are in blissful ignorance of their * Mr. Anderson, a gentleman of much experience in English wool, stated before an agricultural club in England, that a single hogget fleece weighing twenty pounds, with a length of staple of about seventeen inches, " when used in manufacture to its utmost extent, as an admixture with cotton to fabricate the finest alpaca fabrics, would suffice to make upwards of twelve pieces, each forty-two yards in length, and very possibly might be extended to sixteen pieces, or six hundred and seventy-two yards." Ohio Agricultural Report, 1863, p. 224. I would, in this connection, invite attention to the most valuable and admirable papers and communications on sheep, husbandry and wool, furnished for these reports by Mr. Klippart, Secretary of the Ohio State Board of Agriculture. t Eighth Census of the United States, vol. Agriculture, p. 86. 24 origin, and are not shocked with the consciousness of being clad in the cast-off habiliments of a Polish Jew or an Italian beggar. I will close this sketch by some general remarks upon the character of the British industry in woollens. The whole energies of British manufacturers are directed to supply the masses with goods of the utmost cheapness. They do not seek so much excellence in the fabrics as marketable products. It was remarked by continental observers, at the two great expo- sitions, that although fabrics of wonderful perfection were exhi- bited, they were not specimens of the ordinary work of their spindles and looms. The colors of their goods are excellent, much better than their designs ; but, above all, they surpass in the art of dressing their fabrics so as to conceal their defects and make them attractive to purchasers. Their inventive capacity is shown, particularly in the application to new uses of the vast variety of raw materials which their extensive com- merce supplies, but, more than all, in mechanical improve- ments for substituting the iron frame for the human hand. The breaking up of existing machinery and the replacing of new is the marked feature in the present era of British manu- factures. The abundance and cheapness of capital, cheap food under the change in the corn laws, the free admission of raw materials, a well founded confidence in friendly legislation, and the establishment of mercantile houses in all parts of the world, sustain England in the war which she is waging unceas- ingly against the manufacturing industry of all other nations ; and would render a strife against her utterly hopeless, without the barriers of countervailing duties which the instinct of self- preservation has placed around all other industrious nations. The history of the woollen industry of France, the second in the amount of its productions, and the first in the general excellence of its products, exhibits the important part which this industry performs in developing the national prosperity, 25 and how it may flourish or decay under the favorable or adverse policies of governments. This industry received its first impulse in France, near the close of the sixteenth century, from the celebrated edict of Nantes, which restored to that country the Protestants, who had become the most enlightened merchants and skilful work- men in Europe. They brought from Germany, and the Low Countries where they had wandered, the arts of spinning, weaving, and dyeing woollens, and founded the first establish- ments for making woollen cloths. The infant manufactures, slightly advanced by the agricultural improvements of Sully, who introduced some important breeds of sheep, and, languish- ing under the inauspicious administration of Richelieu, were finally planted in their present flourishing seats by Colbert, the illustrious minister of Louis XIV. Under his administration, the manufactures of new products created by the arts of Italy, Holland, and Germany, were attracted to the French soil by seductive offers made to foreign artisans. The woollen manu- facture received his special attention. He obtained, from Louis XIV., the disposal of fifty thousand livres to be distributed in encouraging this industry. At this period, Holland alone had attained any perfection in the manufacture of fine cloths. Colbert attracted Gosse Van Robais from Holland, by enor- mous concessions, to fabricate as his patent, signed by the King, declared fine cloths, after the fashion of Spain and Holland. Of this act Thiers says, "When Louis XIV. struck down the Spanish power, Colbert, at his side, executed conquests more important, by introducing the manufacture of cloths into France." * Not content with naturalizing foreign skill, he imposed heavy duties upon foreign manufactures, and attempted the amelioration of flocks by imported breeds ; and it is admitted that France owes to his wise acts and counsels Industrie des Laines foule^s, par M. J. Randoing, p. 38. 4 26 the most important developments of her industry.* It is with great justice, then, that our own great political economist, whose works, translated into five languages, have been adopted as text-books in the universities of the continent of Europe, has selected the name of the French financier to designate that school of statesmanship which aims to develop, by protection and encouragement, the industrial wealth of a nation. f The woollen interest became again depressed under Louis XV., in whose reign those arts alone flourished which adminis- tered to pleasure and luxury. The manufacture revived under Louis XVI., in whose reign merino sheep were naturalized in France, to be again struck down by a fatal error of adminis- tration. In 1786, a treaty was concluded between France and England, which admitted into the latter country French pro- ductions of luxury and taste, in exchange for an analogous concession for the admission to France of English goods of apparently small price, but which, suiting all classes, are the essential bases of the industry of a people. This treaty was the most fatal blow that the textile manufactures had ever re- ceived. England, favored as we have seen by continued pro- tection, had already made great progress in the capacity of manufacturing at comparatively low prices. Before the lapse of the second year from this treaty, France was so flooded by English importations of cloth that she ceased to attempt even to supply her own consumption. Although the policy of 1786 was speedily retraced, and protection restored, the French manufactures had not recovered from the shock when the revolution completed the prostration of all industry^ * See the Works of Mr. H. C. Carey, passim. t Smith, in his Memoirs, speaks thus instructively of this great statesman: "Mon- sieur Colbert, erecting manufactures of wool in all parts of France, and prohibiting all the English woollen manufactures to be imported among them, in a few years set the poor to work throughout that kingdom; . . . the first consequence of which was, that the King of France saw all his subjects clothed, however indifferently, with the manufactures of their own country, who, but a few years before, bought all their clothes from England. Vol. ii. p. 290. t Randoing, Industrie des Laines foulee"s, p. 21. Manual of Social Science, by H. C. Carey, p. 209. 27 No sooner had the first Consul, Bonaparte, grasped, with a firm hand, the reins of State s than he resolved to develop upon the French soil all the elements of wealth concealed within its bosom. He wished to appropriate for France all sciences, arts, and industries. Made a member of the Institute, he uttered this noble sentiment: "The true power of the French Repub- lic should consist, above all, in its not allowing a single new idea to exist which it does not make its own." * To learn the necessities and resources of the nation, he called upon savans, painters, and artisans, to adorn with their productions the vast hall of the ancient Louvre. From this epoch a new career was opened to the industry of France, which found its most magnifi- cent protector in the chief of the State. Napoleon said : " Spain has twenty-five millions of merinos ; I wish France to have a hundred millions.''! To effect this, among other admin- istrative aids, he established sixty additional sheepfolds to those of Rambouillet, where agriculturalists could obtain the use of Spanish rams without expense. By the continental blockade, he closed France and the greater part of Europe against Eng- lish importations ; and the manufacturers of France were pushed to their utmost to supply, not only their domestic, but European consumption. They had to replace, by imitating them, the English commodities to which the people had been so long accustomed. The old routines of manufacturing were abandoned, and the reign of the Emperor became, in all the industrial arts, one long series of discoveries and progress. Napoleon saw that the conquest of the industry of England was no less important than the destruction of its fleets and armies. He appealed to patriotism, as well as science and the arts, to aid him in his strife with the modern Carthage. Visiting the establishment for printing calicoes of the celebrated Ober- hampf, Napoleon said to him, as he saw the perfection of * Bulletin de la Soctete Imperiale Zoologique d'Accliinatation, 2d Serie, t. i. p. 665. t Bernoville, p. 133. 28 the fabrics, Nous faisons tons deux la guerre a VAngle- terre, mats je crois que le meilleure est encore la votre " We are both of us carrying on a war with England ; but I think that yours, after all, is the best." " These words," says M. Randoing, " so flattering and so just, were repeated from one end of France to the other ; they so inflamed the imagina- tions of the people, that the meanest artisan, believing himself called upon to be the auxiliary of the great man, had but one thought, the ruin of England." * The fabrications of cloths attained such high perfection dur- ing this period, that since then the only progress has been the modification of details. During this period the chemical arts of dyeing attained the excellence so characteristic of French colors; and, during this period, the mechanical genius of Ja- quard, aided by the practical skill of Depouilly, produced the loom which has been justly regarded as the greatest invention in the art of weaving of the present century, and has only been eclipsed by the great achievement of our own inventor, who made the Jaquard loom automatic.! The profits acquired by successful manufacturers, during this period of prosperity, were immediately applied to the erection of vast factories, and Mulhouse, St. Quentin, Tarare, and Roubaix, at present re- nowned seats of the woollen, manufacture, received the ele- ments of progress and wealth which they have not since ceased to develop. Of all the conquests of Napoleon, the greatest by far, the industrial independence of France, is still secure. J And the assaults of British free trade are still unavailing against * Randoing, p. 11. t For an account of Mr. Bigelow's great invention, see Preliminary Report of Com- missioner of Patents, 1863. The report says, " It now presents a machine which is ad- mitted to be unsurpassed by any thing which the mechanical genius of man has ever devised." p. 11. J " Protection, the industrial creation of Napoleon, the most precious and principal cause of his conquests." Industrie des cotons, par M. Mimirel, President du Council General des Manufactures de France, etc. p. 6. 29 the bulwarks of protection established through his maxims and example.* Thanks to the immortal founder of the industrial glory of France, she has never been hoodwinked by the specious phi- losophy of British free trade. She saw, when Mr. Huskisson suppressed the prohibitory duty upon French silk, that it wrs only because he could not suppress the contraband trade, and because the duty of twenty-five per cent was a more efficient protection of British silks. " When the British Parliament applaud the absolute enfranchisement of commerce," says Baron Dupin, in 1852, " they clap their hands, and these hands are covered with English gloves, whose inferiority is protected against foreign gloves by a duty of twenty-five per cent." Whenever a new manufacture, not provided for in the tariff regulations, has been attempted, the French have seen it crushed by British capitalists, who had been instructed by Mr. Brougham, that " England could afford to incur some loss on the export of English goods, for the purpose of destroying for- eign manufactures in their cradle" f " Three times," says Dr. Sacc, " since the commencement of the present century, have attempts been made in France to spin the wool of the Angora goat. Each attempt has failed ; for, as soon as the products appeared in the market, the English spinners lowered the prices from twenty to twenty-five per cent, and rendered competition impossible." J The Anglo-French Treaty of 1860, although often referred to as evincing a change in the protec- tive policy of France, still carefully guarded her manufactures. The Leeds Chamber of Commerce, the highest authority in relation to woollens, regarded the duties under that treaty as prohibitory. Lord Grey asserted, without contradiction, in the * Tableau Statistique des Industries, Francises du colon, de laine et de la soie, par Baron Charles Dupin, p. 9. Travaux de la Commission Francaise, t. iv. t Report of the Commissioner of Patents for the year 1861. Agriculture, p. 17. t Bulletin de la Societe Imperiale Zoologique, &c., t. v. p. 679. 30 House of Lords, that "France retained her whole system of navigation laws. She bound herself to no duties on her manu- factured goods lower than thirty per cent in the first instance, and twenty-five per cent afterwards. The only articles, on which she made any reduction, were coal and iron, which she wanted in order to stimulate her manufactures." * The condition of the woollen manufacture, under this system, must be regarded with no little interest. The number of sheep in France in 1851, according to Mr. Bernoville, who is my prin- cipal authority in the following statements, f was 40,000,000. Each fleece, upon an average, comprising the lambs, weighing, washed upon the back, about 1 T 8 ^ kilogramme, the 40,000,- 000 of sheep give the number of 72,000,000 kilogrammes, 158,832,000 Ibs., as the whole weight of domestic wool, worth, at a minimum of 3 francs 50 centimes per kilogramme, the average of the qualities, 252,000,000 francs. The mean of importation duty paid for these years was of the value of 55,000,000 francs, making the total value of wool employed 307,000,000 francs. The value of the raw wool, which enters into the average French tissues, is estimated at one-third of the price of the tissues when they enter into the hands of the consumer. The value of the raw wool, tripled, is 921,000,000 francs, or $184,200,000. The mean of exportation for three years before, including 1851, was 116,000,000 francs, or $23,200,000. There remained 805,000,- 000 francs, or $161,000,000, as the value of the domestic con- sumption in France in 1851. The average of French exportation of woollens from 1827 to 1836, was 38,000,000 francs. The exportation of the same fabrics in 1851 was 122,500,000 francs. Thus there was an increase of exportations iu twenty years of 220 per cent. The exportations of woollens from England were, in 1830, 118,- 000,000 francs, or $23,600,000 ; in 1851, 246,000,000 francs, * Bigelow's Tariff Question, p. 38. t Industrie des Laines peiguees, p. 135, el seq. 31 or 149,200,000. The increase in twenty years was 110 per cent. While England had doubled her exportations, France had tripled hers, besides supplying her domestic consumption. Thus the acknowledged protective system of France had ac- complished more for her foreign commerce than the so-called free trade of England had done for British exterior con- sumption. Assured by the increased prosperity of her man- ufactures, of the domestic consumption of all her native wools, France, while continuing the duties on her manufactures, has diminished the duty on raw materials. In 1861, her exporta- tions of woollens amounted to 188,000,000 francs ; in 1862, 221,000,000 francs; and, in 1863, to 283,000,000 francs, or $56,000,000. I have been able to obtain estimates of the number of per- sons employed in only one branch of the French woollen manufacture, that of combing wool. Mr. Bernoville* estimates that France, in 1851, employed constantly 800,000 spindles in the fabrication of combing wool; that each spindle produced twelve kilogrammes of yarn, representing nineteen kilo- grammes of washed wool, worth at least 5 francs 25 centimes per kilogramme. At that, the 800,000 spindles consumed 15,- 200,000 kilogrammes (33,431,200 Ibs.), worth, in round num- bers, 80,000,000 francs. He estimates that the various ma- nipulations which the wool undergoes in fabrication, including the selling, adds two and one-half times to the original value of the wool, making the total cost of wool, and fabrication of combing wool, 280,000,000 francs. The 800,000 spindles pro- duce 9,600,000 kilogrammes of yarn, representing 8,400,000 fleeces, of which 5,800,000 are produced by French sheep. It is ascertained, from the statistics of M. Billiet, that this wool, from the shepherd to the spinner inclusive, employs 51,000 workmen, who receive a total salary of 26,182,976 francs. It is calculated that two looms occupy five persons, and each wea- * Industrie des Laines peigndes, p. 139. 32 ver uses about eighty kilogrammes of spun wool. The 9,600,- 000 kilogrammes give employment to 120,000 looms, which gives the number of 300,000 workmen employed in weaving. It is estimated that in dyeing, bleaching, printing, and selling, 20,000 more persons are employed. Estimating the average pay of each of the 320,000 workmen, exclusive of the spinners, at 1 franc 25 centimes a day for three hundred days' work, and adding the salary included in the spinning, Mr. Bernoville arrives at the sum of 146,000,000 francs distributed among 371,000 men, women, and children, which would allow 393 francs 55 centimes, or $78.70 to each person. These estimates furnish data by which we may arrive at a general estimate of the number employed in all the branches of the woollen manufacture. The value of the fabrication of comb- ing wool was 280,000,000 only of her 921,000,000, the esti- mated value of the whole fabrication ; leaving a value of 641,000,000 in other branches. These branches, by the rates established in the estimates above given, would employ 849,000 persons, making nearly a million and a quarter as the number of persons directly employed in the woollen manufactures of France. In studying the characteristics of the French manufacturers, and the part they have taken in advancing the general pro- gress of the woollen industry, and in adding to the means of consumption, we observe that they have not attained that economy of production which so eminently distinguishes the British manufacturers. Supplied with abundant labor, sup- ported by cheap sustenance, the French manufacturers have been content to remain far behind the British and Americans in the substitution of machinery for human labor. But the tendency of machinery, as they think, is to give mediocrity to manufactured products; and the French aim at the utmost excellence in their works. The individual skill or handicraft of the workman is developed to the utmost extent. All ma- 33 chinery is rejected which will not surpass the manipulations of the hand. Spinning, the foundation of good textures, is car- ried by them to the utmost perfection. Yarns, spun from combed or carded wool by the rival nations, exhibited at the great London exposition, were carried ten, twenty, and even thirty numbers higher by French spinners with the same wool.* They excel equally in ameliorating raw materials, in making them softer and more flexible. The French, in the textile arts, are creators; while the English are exphiteurs. The one nation invents new fabrics, new combinations of old materials, new styles and patterns, or what, in a word, are called French novelties. The other works up these ideas, copies, transforms, dilutes, and, above all, cheapens. Most other nations follow the English example, and our own is as yet no exception. To specify the contributions of inventive or creative genius of France to the woollen industry, we must class, first among the machines, the Jaquard, already referred to, whose wonderful products are seen in all figured textures ; and next, the machinery for combing wool and also cotton, of Heilman, of Mulhouse, an invention which possesses interest, not only on account of its vast importance, but the circum- stances of its origin. The most novel and valuable part of this machine, as stated by the inventor, which he had long unsuccessfully endeavored to obtain, was ultimately accom- plished by carrying into mechanical operation a suggestion which occurred to him whilst watching his daughters combing their hair. He was at that time meditating on the hard faie of inventors generally, and the misfortunes which befel their families. This circumstance, says Mr. Woodcroft, being com- municated to Mr. Elmore, of the Royal Academy, was embod- ied by him in a picture which was exhibited, and greatly admired, at the Royal Academy in 1862. f We all practise or * Bernoville. t Brief Biographies of Inventors, &c., p. 45. 5 34 use French creations without suspecting their origin. Before 1834 the colors of all fulled cloths were uniform. At that time Mr. Bonjean, of Sedan, conceived the idea, to give beauty to the productions of his looms, of uniting in the same stuff different tints and figures. His thought was that the domain of production would be as illimitable as that of fantasy, which was the name given to his goods. He was the originator of the product and name of fancy cassimeres, by far the most im- portant branch of our own cloth manufacture.* The French, already skilled in making light gauzes of silk, first made bareges in 1818 ; f a fabric with a weft of wool and warp of silk. The English imitated the fabric by substituting cotton for silk in the warp. In 1826, Mr. Jourdain first produced, at the establishment of Troixvilles, that invaluable fabric, mouss- eline de laine, made of fine wool, for printing. ^ In 1831, the manufacture and printing of this tissue was fully developed. In 1838, he also created challis, made of a warp of silk organ- zin and a weft of fine wool. In 1833, first appeared at Paris, simultaneously introduced by three French houses, that fabric so appropriate for the consumption of the masses, the mousseline de laine, with cotton warps. The English adopted the manu- facture in 1834-5, and it prevails in every manufacturing nation. This fabric, which is unquestionably a French idea,j| has been an inestimable blessing. Its products are counted by millions of pieces, and it enables the most humble female to clothe herself more comfortably and becomingly, and as cheap- ly, with wool, as she could thirty years ago with cotton. In 1858, plain bareges were introduced, for printing. These had before been made of colored threads ; at the same time, balso- rine, having the effect of alternate fabrics of cloth and gauze, was created in wool in imitation of a flaxen fabric. ^[ The * Randoing. Industrie des Laines Ibult-es, p. 23. t Bernoville, p. 179. J Bernoville, p. 186. Bernoville, p. 186. || Bernoville, p. 187. T[ Beruoville, p. 188. 35 foulards, with a warp of silk and weft of English combing, were introduced about this time at St. Denis.* The fabric, how- ever, most appreciated by female taste, and the most unrivalled of modern woollen textures, and the only one not degraded by imitation, is that beautiful material which derives its name from the fleece of which it is made, the French merino. This tissue was first made at Rheims, in 1801, by a workman named Dauphinot Pallotan.f The invention, for which a patent was asked, whether successfully or not is not known, consisted sole- ly in the adaptation of a peculiar type of wool, and not in the fabric. I shall refer to tbis fabric in another connection, to show that the intelligent skill of the agriculturalist is no less import- ant than the genius of the artisan in developing the manufac- turing prosperity of a nation. The creative genius of the French is more conspicuous in their arts of design and color, as applied to all textile products. There is an unlimited application of these arts and a boundless field for novelties, in the modern use of printed woollen goods. All the manufacturers of France, in producing new styles of fabric or figure, nourish their tastes by Parisian ideas, the inheritance of the ancient splen- dors of Versailles. Says Mr. Bernoville : "At Paris, each con- sumer is a judge, and becomes a guide to the merchant and manufacturer. The Parisians appreciate only what is good, and consecrate only what is beautiful. The grisette as well as the g-rande dame, the artisan as well as the dandy, has received, and practises, without knowing it, the traditions of art." $ Although important commercial houses are now estab- lished for the sale of designs elaborated in this school, there is no manufacturer in Europe who scruples to copy French pat- terns. We have even so framed our patent laws that, while protecting all other foreign works of invention, we might appro- * Bernoville, p. 185. t Bernoville, p. 195. J Beruoville, p. 175. 36 priate with impunity the productions of the Parisian pencil and pallet. Thus, by importation as well as imitation, all over the world, the true lovers of the beautiful, as well as " the sophists, econo- mists, and calculators," whose advent, upon the fall of Maria Antoinette, is so pathetically lamented by Burke,* acknowledge France, so gracefully symbolized by Eugenie, the empress of taste and fashion. I shall not attempt to review the woollen industries of the other manufacturing countries of Europe, and will confine myself to a brief notice of four other nations, the most dis- tinguished for their resistance to the commercial policy of England. In the reports of the Bradford Chamber of Com- merce for 1864-5, kindly sent me by our consul at Sheffield, Mr. Abbott, who has charge also of the vice-consulates of Brad- ford, Leeds, and Huddersfield, I find bitter complaints of the tariff regulations of Austria, Sweden, Spain, and Russia, as affecting, most injuriously, the woollen trade of Bradford. The Austrian tariff is spoken of as presenting " features of the most objectionable character," while " the duties are almost prohibitory, and unjust to England." The Swedish tariff is referred to as having " the unfortunate distinction of disputing with Spain the debatable honor of being the highest in the world, the Russian alone excepted." Of Russia, it is said, " the importation of manufactured tissues is practically pre- vented by a scale of duties higher than any in the world ;" and that the value of only .46,258 of British woollens and worsteds were exported to that country in 1862. It is a mat- ter of no little interest to us to know the manufacturing con- dition of the nations which have made such declarations of independence. * "But the age of chivalry is gone; that of sophisters, economists, and calculators, have succeeded, and the glory of Europe is extinguished forever." Reflections on the Revolution in France. London, 1791, p. 60. 37 Austria consumes about 70,000,000 pounds of wool per year, and its annual production of woollen fabrics amounts to about $50,000,000 per year. It supplies its own population, and exports to the Levant, Asia, the United States, and even China. Its manufactures of woollens were stimulated, first, by almost absolute prohibition, and have been since encouraged by duties highly prohibitory. What is the condition of the manufacture thus aided by the national favor ? Let the disinterested testi- mony of an English expert answer. The reporter on the class of woollens, in the London Exhibition of 1862, says: " There is no inland country in Europe which has made so much pro- gress in woollen manufactures during the last ten or twelve years as Austria. It has not only maintained and improved its reputation for fine plain woollens, doeskins, heavy coatings, ,,m,.stic Wool, in Pounds. Weekly Consumption Foreign Wool, in I'umids. Per- centage Forelpm Wool. Avprafre We.-kly per Set. Mill, to be heard from. AINE 40 177 93 835 74 120 19 715 19J 630 11 EW HAMPSHIRE . ... ERMONT MASSACHUSETTS .... HODE ISLAND 69 39 186 61 361 112 1,467 340 217,110 50,217 857,496 188 775 174,841 32,652 560,396 152 967 42,269 17,565 297,100 35,808 19j 35 34* 19 601 448 585 555 28 19 74 15 ONNFCTICUT 88 452 252 880 125 486 127,394 50 J 559 43 154 576 236 510 174 536 61,974 261 411 124 EW JERSEY 11 64 33 660 25 238 8,422 25 526 7 ENNSYLVANIA: Philadelphia 24 68 88,200 68,650 19,550 22| 1,297 98 Eemainder of the State . ELAWARE 57 6 90 16 39,054 14,050 39,054 13,050 1,000 n 434 937 69 4 [ARYLAND 1 8 5,400 2,700 2,700 50 675 2 1 44 83 32,615 32,615 392 34 NDIANA 47 103 51,200 51,200 497 41 22 47 23,355 23,355 497 13 tlCHIGAN 20 26 9,660 9,660 372 12 WISCONSIN 13 25 10,800 10,800 432 6 [iNNESOTA 1 2 1,200 1,200 600 2 0\VA . 15 43 17,658 17,658 411 6 IlSSOURI 10 21 16,650 16,650 793 4 7 14 6,600 6,600 400 7 kANSAS 1 3 1,620 1,620 640 2 1 )REGON 1 4 4,000 4,000 1,000 1 TOTAL, Oct. 25, 1865 . . 917 4,100 2,252,545 1,619,038 633,497 . 28J 550 624 10 OFFICERS. President. E. B. BIGELOW .............. BOSTON, MASS. T. S. FAXTON ............... UTICA, N.Y. THEODORE POMEROY .......... PITTSFIELD, MASS. SAMUEL BANCROFT ............ MEDIA, PA. ^Treasurer. WALTER HASTINGS ............ BOSTON, MASS. Semtarg. JOHN L. HAYES .............. BOSTON, MASS. IBfrcctors. Maine. R. W. ROBINSON, Dexter. J. H. BUKLEIGH, South Berwick. THOMAS S. LANG, N. Vassalboro'. New Hampshire. D. H. BUFFUM, Great Falls. DANIEL HOLDEN, Concord. Vermont. S. WOODWARD, Woodstock. SETH B. HUNT; Bennington. Massachusetts. JESSE EDDY, Fall River. S. BLACK INGTON, North Adams. JOSHUA STETSON, Boston. A. C. RUSSELL, Great Barrington. G. H. GILBERT, Ware. C. W. HOLMES, Monson. Connecticut. HOMER BLANCHARD, Hartford. J. CONVERSE, Stafford Springs. B. SEXTON, Warehouse Point. GEORGE KELLOGG, Rockville. GEORGE ROBERTS, Hartford. lih ode Island. S. T. OLNET, Providence. ROWSE BABCOCK, Westerly. New York. A. J. WILLIAMS, Utica. CHARLES STOTT, Hudson. EDWARD A. GREEN, New York. New Jersey. JONAS LIVERMORE, Blackwoodtown. DAVID OAKES, Bloomfield. Pennsylvania. S. W. CATTELL, Philadelphia. EMANUEL HEY, ,, JOHN COVODE, Lockport Station. CHARLES SPENCER, Germantown. Delaware. WILLIAM DEAN, Newark. Maryland. CHARLES WETHERED, Baltimore. Ohio: ALTON POPE, Cleveland. A. P. STONE, Columbus. Finance. Stantifng Committees. J. W. EDMANDS, Boston, Mass. EDWARD HARRIS, Woonsocket, R.I. S. D. W. HARRIS, Rockville, Ct. J. W. STITT, New York, N.Y. BENJAMIN BULLOCK, Philadelphia, Pa. Statistics. R. G. HAZARD, Peacedale, R.I. JAMES ROY, West Troy, N.Y. ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL, Manayunk,Pa. N. KINGSBURY, Hartford, Ct. J. V. BARKER, Pittsfield, Mass. Raw Material. GEORGE W. BOND, Boston, Mass. H. D. TELLKAMPF, New York, N.Y. S. B. STITT, Philadelphia, Pa. T. S. FAXTON, Utica, N.Y. J. J. ROBINSON, Rockville, Ct. Machinery. RICHARD GARSED, Frankford, Pa. J. K. KILBOURN, Pittsfield, Mass. C. H. ADAMS, Cohoes, N.Y. ESTUS LAMB, Blackstone, Mass. ROBERT MIDDLETON, Utica, N.Y. LIST OF MEMBERS. MAINE. GALEN C. MOSES Bath. NEWICHAWANOCK Co., J. //. Burleigh, Ag't So. Berwick. DEXTER MILLS, R. W. Robinson, Ag't Dexter. S. O. BROWN Dover. ANSON P. MORRILL Readfield. THOMAS S. LANG No. Vassalboro'. NEW HAMPSHIRE. J. M. BABCOCK & Co., Barnstead. B. F. & D. HOLDEN West Concord. ALMON HARRIS Fisherville. GREAT-FALLS WOOLLEN Co., D. H. Buffum, Ag't . . . Great Falls. D. HENSHAW WARD, Ag't Ashuelot Manufacturing Co. . Keene. MOSES SARGENT, Jr Lake Village. MILTON MILLS, E. R. Mudge, Sawyer & Co., Ag'ts . . Milton. VERMONT. SETH B. HUNT Bennington. HOLMES, WHITTEMORE, & Co Springfield. BURLINGTON WOOLLEN Co., J. Stetson, Treas Winooski. SOLOMON WOODWARD Woodstock. MASSACHUSETTS. S. BLACKINTON No. Adams. S. W. BRAYTON & Co DEAN & LA MONTE So. GEORGE L. DAVIS No. Andover. N. STEVENS & SONS ASSABET MANUF'G Co., T. Quincy Browne, Treas. . . . Assabet. MILLER'S-RIVER MANUF'G Co., Geo. T. Johnson, Ag't . . Athol. C. P. TALBOT & Co Billerica. ESTUS LAMB Blackstone. R. M. BAILEY Boston. ERASTUS B. BIGELOW 76 GEORGE WILLIAM BOND Boston. GARDNER BREWER & Co GARDNER COLBY J. C. CONVERSE, BLAGDEN, & Co REUBEN S. DENNEY J. WILEY EDMANDS GEORGE L. HARWOOD WALTER HASTINGS . . . . ' JAMES L. LITTLE AMORY MAYNARD ADOLPHUS MERRIAM CHARLES MERRIAM PERRY & WENDELI GEORGE W. RYLEY M. H. SIMPSON , JOHN H. STEPHENSON AUSTIN SUMNER, Treas. Merch. Woollen Co., Dedham, Mass. HENRY V. WARD, Treas. Lawrence Manufacturing Co. . C. L. HARDING Cambridge. FRENCH & WARD Canton. DAMON, SMITH, & Co Concord. THOMAS BARROWS Dedham. DIGHTON WOOLLEN Co., William C. Whitridge, Pres. . Dighton. JESSE EDDY, & SON Fall River. F. B. RAY Franklin. ALLAN CAMERON Graniteville. BERKSHIRE WOOLLEN Co., A. C. Russell, Ag't . . . . Gt. Barrington. F. W. HINSDALE & BROTHER Hinsdale. PLUNKETT WOOLLEN Co., C. J. Kittredge, Pres , AUGUST STEUSBERG Holyoke. D. D. CROMBIE Lawrence. GEORGE A. FULLER , PACIFIC MILLS, W. C. Chapin, Ag't WASHINGTON MILLS, Joshua Stetson, Treas ELIZUR SMITH Lee. BALDWIN Co., P. Anderson, Ag't and Treas Lowell. ISAAC FARRINGTON STAR MILLS, George Brayton, Treas Middleboro'. S. U. CHURCH & BROTHER Middlefield. CRANE & WATERS Millbury. M. & S. LAPHAM NELSON WALLING HAMPDEN COTTON MANUF'G Co., C. W. Holmes, Ag't . Monson. LOAM SNOW, Pres. Star Mills, Middleboro', Mass. . . . New Bedford. BURROUGH & BARTLETT . No. Oxford. 77 W. R. PARKS Palmer. JOHN V. BARKER & BROTHER Pittsfield. PECK & KILBOURN Pittsfield. PITTSFIELD WOOLLEN Co L. POMEROY'S SONS S. N. & C. RUSSELI D. & H. STEARNS TACONIC MILLS, George Y. Learned, Trc-as SALISBURY MILLS, John Gardner, Treas., Boston . . . Salisbury. C. ALDEN Springfield. JOHN L. KING C. E. PARSONS ,, J. Z. & C. GOODRICH & Co Stock bridge. S. W. SCOTT Uxbridge. GEORGE H. GILBERT & Co Ware. CHARLES A. STEVENS S. H. SIBLEY Warren. L. M. CAPRON & SONS Webster. RAVINE MANUFACTURING Co So. Wilbraham. SCANTIC MANUFACTURING Co., L. E. Sage, Ag't . . . ,, ADRIATIC MILL, Granville M. Clark, Treas Worcester. H. H. CHAMBERLAIN & Co CURTIS & MURDOCH RHODE ISLAND. H. SAYLES & SON Pascoag. R. G. HAZARD Peacedale. ATLANTIC DELAINE Co., George W. Chapin, Treas. . . Providence. WILLIAM G. BUD LONG CHAPIN & DOWNES TAFT, WEEDEN, & Co WAINSKUCK Co., S. T. Gluey, Treas ROWSE BABCOCK Westerly. BROWN & CLARK EDWARD HARRIS Woonsocket. CONNECTICUT. THOMAS CROSSLEY Bridgeport. BROAD-BROOK Co., B. E. Hooker, Treas Broad Brook. A. C. DUNHAM Hartford. HARTFORD CARPET Co., George Roberts, Treas HOME WOOLLEN Co., H. Blanchard, Treas N. KlNGSBURY & CO M 78 THAMES WOOLLEN Co., R. G. Hooper, Ag't Montville. THOMAS LEWIS Naugatuck. NEW-BRITAIN KNITTING Co., John B. Talcott, Sec. . . New Britain. UNION MANUFACTURING Co Norwalk. WILLIAM ELTING, Ag't Elting Woollen Co Norwich. YANTIC MILLS, by E. Winslow Williams AMERICAN MILL, J. J. Robinson, Ag't Rockville. FLORENCE MILLS, George Kellogg, jr., Ag't S. D. W. HARRIS , HOCKANUM Co., George Maxwell, Ag't NEW-ENGLAND Co., Allen Hammond, Ag't ROCK MANUFACTURING Co., George Kellogg, Ag't ... JOSEPH SELDEN E. H. HYDE Stafford. MINERAL-SPRINGS MANUF'G Co., J. Converse, Treas. . . Stafford Springs. MILL- RIVER WOOLLEN MANUF'G Co., TJios. S. Hall, Pres. Stamford. TERRY MANUF'G Co., by Henry K. Terry Thomaston, EAST- WINDSOR WOOLLEN Co., B. Sexlon, Pres Warehouse Pt. GLENVILLE MILLS, A. D. Le Fevre Waterbury. WATERBURY MILLS, John W. Whittal ,, DALEVILLE MILLS, Ed. H. Robinson, Pres Willington. SEQUASSEN WOOLLEN Co., William W. Billings, Ag't . Windsor. P. C. ALLEN Windsorville. LOUNSBURY, BISSELL, & Co Winncpauk. NORWALK MILLS, by Charles C. Beits DANIEL CURTIS & Co Woodbury. NEW YORK. STEAM WOOLLEN Co., S. Harris, Ag't Catskill. C. H. ADAMS ... ... . . Cohoes. ALDEN, FRINK, & WESTON JOSEPH H. PARSONS A. E. STIMSON, Treas LEVI YANNEY Ephratah. GLENHAM Co., William M. Dart, Ag't Glenham. CHARLES STOTT Hudson. SAXONY WOOLLEN Co Little Falls. A. VAN SICKLER Madrid. CHESTER MOSES & Co Marcellus. P. S. HAINES Newburg. J. HARRISON EDWARD A. GREEN New York. ELIAS S. HIGGINS SAMUEL LAWRENCE LITTLE & DANA 79 L. J. STIASTNY New York. J. W. STITT H. STARSBURG M H. D. TELLKAMPF ALLEN & GIBSON Otto. A. L. CLARK & Co Philmont. S. W. GREGORY Plattsburg. ELIAS TITUS & SONS Poughkeepsie. H. WATERBURY Renssalaerville. SCHAGHTICOKE WOOLLEN MILLS, Amos Briggs, Pres. . Schaghticoke. ISAAC R. BLANVELT Spring Valley. P. W. HART Stamford. TROY MANUFACTURING Co., by Azro B. Morgan . . . Troy. TROY WOOLLEN Co., by James S. Knowlton JAMES ROY & Co . West Troy. PETER CLOGER, Ag't Utica Steam Woollen Co Utica. EMPIRE WOOLLEN Co., A. J. Williams T. S. FAXTON GLOBE WOOLLEN Co., Robert Middleton, Ag't .... LESTER STONE Westfield. NEW JERSEY. JONAS LIVERMORE Blockwoodtown. DAVID OAKES & SON Bloomfield. CAMDEN WOOLLEN Co., S. B. Stitt, Treas., Philadelphia . Camden. S. & R. DUNCAN Newark. NORFOLK & NEW BRUNSWICK HOSIERY Co. . . . . . New Brunswick. PENNSYLVANIA. WALDO & SON Arcade. JAMES IRVING Chester. FREMONT WOOLLEN Co., by B. Garsed Frankford. SAMUEL RIDDLE Glen Riddle. JOHN COVODE Lockport Stat'n. A. CAMPBELL & Co Manayunk. EDWARD HOLT H. S. HUIDEKOPER Meadville. SAMUEL BANCROFT Media. EDWARD H. AMIDON Philadelphia. BENJAMIN BULLOCK'S SONS H. N. BRUNER . S. W. CATTELL, Lincoln Mills ,, CAMPBELL & POLLOCK, Continental Woollen Mill ... WILLIAM DIVINE THOMAS DOLAN ., 80 SAMUEL ECCLES, Jr Philndolphia. GEORGE P. EVANS EMANUEL HEY B. H. JENKS CHARLES SPENCER DELAWARE. WILLIAM DEAN Newark. MARYLAND. WETHERED, BROTHERS, & NEPHEWS Baltimore. OHIO. GLASER & BROTHERS Cincinnati. ALTON POPE & SONS Cleveland. COLUMBUS WOOLLEN MANUF'G Co., A. P. Stone, Pres. . Columbus. INDIANA. SCHAEFFER, RlMROTH, & Co Evansville. MICHIGAN. WILLIAM WALLACE Battle Creek. P. S. LYMAN Corunna. H. R. GARDNER Jonesville. JOHN NICOL . . St. Clair. HONOKAKY MEMBERS. Hon. HENRY S. RANDALL Cortland Vill., N.Y. Hon. JUSTIN S. MORHILL Vermont. Hon. ISAAC NEWTON, Commissioner of Agriculture . Washington, D.C. THE LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA Santa Barbara THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE STAMPED BELOW. Series 9482