ADDRESS 
 
 THE FIRST AXNI7AL MKETINCJ IN PIIILADKLI'HIA, 
 
 Sr.i-r. C,, 18(15. 
 
 BY JOHN L. HAYES, 
 
 SECRETARY. 
 
 WITH SECRETARTS REPORT AND TABLES. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE : 
 
 I'KKSS OF JOHN WILSON AND SONS. 
 
 1865.
 
 ADDRESS 
 
 BEFORE THE 
 
 THE FIRST ANNUAL MEETING IN PHILADELPHIA, 
 
 SEPT. 6, 1865. 
 
 BY JOHN L. HAYES, 
 
 SECRETARY. 
 
 WITH SECRETARTS REPORT AND TABLES. 
 
 CAMBRIDGE : 
 
 PRESS OF JOHN WILSON AND SONS. 
 18G5.
 
 ADDRESS. 
 
 THE occasion of the first annual meeting of the " National 
 Association of Wool Manufacturers " would seem to demand 
 from your Secretary something more than a meagre statement 
 of transactions of the Association necessarily limited by the 
 brief period since its organization, and has suggested, as 
 the most suitable subject for an address which shall have a 
 wider scope than a mere official report, the consideration of 
 the national importance of the wool manufacture and the 
 means of developing it. 
 
 The principal articles of the wealth of a nation are the 
 yearly products of those industries which supply food and 
 clothing, and the instruments by which they are produced 
 and diffused. The distribution of these products constitutes 
 the commerce of the world. Of the four branches of textile 
 industry which clothe mankind, the one to which we are 
 devoted is the most ancient, the most important to the inhabi- 
 tants of the temperate regions, and, therefore, to the most 
 civilized portions of mankind, and at present the second in 
 commercial importance. We cannot fail to benefit ourselves 
 by impressing upon our own minds even familiar facts and 
 considerations which tend to exalt our industry, and stimulate 
 us to advance and ennoble it ; and it is the highest duty to 
 our cause to enlighten the public mind as to the influence 
 which this industry has had and may have in its future possi- 
 ble development, in promoting the wealth of the country and
 
 comfort of the people, in identifying the interests of distant 
 States, in sustaining the public credit, and securing a real 
 national independence. 
 
 Among the well-ordered adaptations of nature for the well- 
 being of the human race, one of the most beneficent is that 
 which has supplied the temperate regions with an animal 
 fitted to produce at the same time food and the most essential 
 clothing of its inhabitants, and one whose culture is a most 
 valuable accessory to general agriculture. So early did man 
 avail himself of this gift, that we find sheep mentioned in the 
 most ancient writings, in the first chapters of Genesis, in 
 the Persian Zend Avesta, in the Indian Vedas, and in the 
 Chinese Chou-king, and represented on the monuments of 
 Egypt. According to Geoffrey Saint-Hilaire, the highest au- 
 thority on the origin of species, the specific source of our 
 domestic sheep is unknown. All that is certain is, that the 
 present races originated in the East ; the primitive names, 
 Bock and Bone, found in the most ancient Asiatic languages, 
 being preserved in our term Buck* 
 
 This species is endowed with a plasticity, so to speak, so 
 remarkable, that it is more susceptible of modification than 
 any other animal, except the dog,f so that " the breeder," as 
 Lord Somerville says, " may chalk out upon a wall a form 
 perfect in itself, and then give it existence." \ Hence peculi- 
 arities are developed in the coverings of different races pro- 
 duced by man, which make that distinctness and variety of 
 fabric which characterize the wool manufacture ; and thus we 
 have the coarse Cordova and Donskoi wools for our carpets ; 
 the noble electoral wools of Saxony and Silesia for our broad- 
 cloths ; the strong middle wools of the Southdown and our 
 
 * Bulletin de la Soci^t^ Imperiale Zoologique d'Acclimatation, t. 6, p. 502. 
 t Cuvier. Animal Kingdom, translated by H. McMurtrie. New York, 1831. Vol. i. 
 p. 199. 
 
 t Bischoff ou Wool, Woollens, and Sheep. London, 1842. p. 380.
 
 native sheep for blankets ; the soft, long, and finer merino 
 wools of France, Vermont, and Michigan, for thibets, delaines, 
 and shawls ; the longer and coarser combing wools of the 
 Cotswold and Leicester races for worsteds in their thousand 
 applications ; the very long and bright-haired lustre wools of 
 Lincolnshire for alpaca fabrics ; and, lastly, the precious silky 
 Mauchamp wool, the recent triumph of French agronomic 
 skill, rivalling even the Cashmere, for shawls, and the Angora, 
 for Utrecht velvets.* 
 
 The fibre of wool, rendered more perfect than any other by 
 the more complete chemical elaborations and assimilations of 
 the animal economy, has the most highly developed organic 
 structure. While the specific gravity of cotton is 1-47, of 
 linen 1-50, and of silk 1-30, the specific gravity of wool is but 
 l-26.f It is, therefore, of all fibrous substances the best non- 
 conductor, and its tissues the lightest and warmest and most 
 healthful. The perfection of the fibre is shown in its inde- 
 structibleness and durability. Cotton and flax may be ulti- 
 mately reduced to mere woody fibre. Wool is almost incapable 
 of mechanical destruction. The existence of " shoddy," the 
 term of reproach to the woollen manufacturers, is the strongest 
 proof of the excellence and indestructibility of its original 
 fibre. Unlike silk, the product of an inferior animal organiza- 
 tion, which is straight and entirely structureless, the fibre of 
 wool is crisped or spirally curled, and is made up of cells 
 of different kinds, the interior forming the pith, and the ex- 
 terior consisting of serrated rings imbricated over each other, 
 having under the microscope the appearance of a series of 
 thimbles with uneven edges inserted into each other ; these ser- 
 ratures, as well as the spiral curls, being more or less distinct 
 accordin to the fineness of the fibre. We have here the 
 
 * See note on p. 55. 
 
 t lire's Philosophy of Manufactures, p. 81, el teq. 
 
 t Youatt on Sheep, p. 94. Argument by George Harding in Supreme Court of 
 United States. Burr vs. Duryee et als. "Hat Body Case," p. 113. Report of Flax aud 
 Hemp Commission, p. 68.
 
 6 
 
 cause of the invaluable quality of felting, to which we owe 
 our hats and broadcloths. Flax and cotton composed of 
 mere woody fibre are opaque and dull in aspect ; woolly fibre, 
 when freed from the peculiar soapy oil or yolk which nour- 
 ishes and protects its growth, has a natural polish which 
 protects it from soiling, and in some varieties gives a positively 
 lustrous beauty to its fabrics ; the vegetable fibres receive 
 with difficulty permanent dyes, and sometimes curiously exhibit 
 their refractory nature in contrast with wool. The fibres, acci- 
 dentally detached from cotton or hempen strings, with which 
 fleeces are sometimes bound, when incorporated with the wool- 
 len fabric, refuse the dye, and often ruin whole products of the 
 loom. On the other hand, all animal fibres have ready affini- 
 ties with the chemical agents of the dyer. Wool especially, 
 from its beautiful whiteness, itself the result of the ameliora- 
 tion of the original black sheep, is unrivalled in its facility for 
 receiving, and power of permanently retaining, color, as in 
 the famous woollen Gobelin tapestries,* where over a thousand 
 distinctly defined tones and hues are given to fabrics destined 
 to be indestructible as works of art. 
 
 Such are the qualities of fibre which have led every indus- 
 trious nation to the culture of flocks as the first necessity of 
 its people ; which have caused, in every manufacturing nation, 
 the demand to constantly exceed the supply ; which have trans- 
 planted colonies from the Cape of Good Hope to Australia, 
 and have carried the shepherd-emigrant to the steppes of Rus- 
 sia and the plains of La Plata ;f and which have brought the 
 present production to such enormous figures as are given by 
 recent German estimates, J giving to Great Britain an annual 
 production of 260,000,000 pounds of wool ; to Germany, 
 
 * Chevreiul on Colors. Translated from the French by John Spanton. London, 
 1858. p. 113. 
 
 t See Southey on Colonial Wools, passim. 
 
 J United-States Economist of June 10, 1865, which quotes from a writer in the 
 Year-book of German Cattle Breeders.
 
 200,000,000; France, 123,000,000; Spain, Italy, and Portugal, 
 119,000,000 ; European Russia, 125,000,000 ; making, in all 
 Europe, 827,000,000 ; in Australia, South America, and South 
 Africa, 157,000,000 ; the United States, 95,000,000 ; the Brit- 
 ish North-American Provinces, 12,000,000 ; Asia, at a very 
 general estimate, 470,000,000 ; Northern Africa, 49,000,000 : 
 the aggregate production of wool in the whole globe amount- 
 ing, by these estimates, to 1,610,000,000, or a pound and a 
 quarter to each inhabitant, reckoned at twelve hundred and 
 eighty-five million people.* 
 
 In tracing the history of the woollen manufacture, we find 
 that it had already attained considerable perfection with the 
 Romans, who employed this material in almost all their gar- 
 ments,! and with whom sheep were so abundant that a single 
 patrician bequeathed, by will, two hundred thousand to Augus- 
 tus.J The prices of the finer fabrics, however, were enormous. 
 
 * Bulletin of American Geographical Society, 1865, p. 153. Hon. Fred. A. 
 Conkling, in a paper on the Production and Consumption of Cotton, furnishes a table, 
 prepared by Prof. A. J. Schem, in which the populations of all the countries on the 
 globe using cotton exclusively are set down at 695,596,483. The populations which 
 use cotton only partially (and, consequently, use more or less wool) are set down at 
 519,656,253. 
 
 t " All the garments of both sexes were for many centuries made of wool exclu- 
 sively; and, although silk and flax were introduced under the empire, they were never 
 adopted by any large portion of the community." Ramsay's Elementary Manual of 
 Roman Antiquities. London, 1860. p. 238. 
 
 t Statistique des Peuples de Antiquite", par M. Moreau de Jonnes, t. ii. p. 464. 
 The invaluable race of merino sheep is probably an inheritance of Roman civilization. 
 The race most prized by the Romans was called the Tarrentine, from Tarrentum, a town 
 settled by a Greek colony. They were also called Greek sheep. Their wool was of ex- 
 ceeding fineness ; and they were protected by coverings of skins, and were also carefully 
 housed, and often combed, and bathed with oil and wine. Hence they were very deli- 
 cate. Columella, the most eminent agricultural writer of the Romans, who lived in the 
 century before the Christian era, relates (De Re JRustica, lib. vii. chap. 2) that his 
 paternal uncle, M. Columella, "a man of keen genius and an illustrious agriculturalist," 
 transported from Cadiz to his farm-lands, which were in Boutica, comprehending a part 
 of the present province of Estramadura, some wild rams of admirable whiteness brought 
 from Africa, and crossed them with the covered or Tarrentine ewes. Their offspring, 
 which had the paternal whiteness, being put to Tarrentine ewes, produced rams with a finer 
 fleece. The progeny of these again retained the softness of the dam and the whiteness 
 of the sire and grandsire (matemam mollititm, paternum et avituni colorem). Other agri- 
 culturalists undoubtedly imitated Columella, and a stronger constitution was thus imparted
 
 s 
 
 The Roman purple worn by the senators was made from wools 
 of Italy, which, according to Pliny, were worth four dollars 
 per pound of twelve ounces,* and which, of the same weight, 
 were worth one hundred and sixty dollars, when colored 
 with the Tyrian dye.f It is not strange, then, that Horace 
 should boast of a gift to his mistress of fleeces twice dyed with 
 the Tyrian murex.J The world has regretted, for many cen- 
 turies, the loss of this imperial dye ; but within the last ten 
 years, or no later than 1856, chemistry has produced from 
 aniline, a product of worthless coal tar, a purple tint, resist- 
 ing light, alkalis, and acids, and rivalling, upon the light 
 worsted zephyrs of our simple maidens, the hue of the patrician 
 mantle. 
 
 The woollen industry disappeared with the incursions of the 
 barbarians and the fall of the Roman Empire, or languished 
 
 to the fine-fleeced but delicate sheep of ancient Italy. That this improvement was com- 
 menced in ancient Spain is further established by the testimony of Strabo, who says, in 
 his account of the geography of that country (lib. iii. chap. 2), that in his time, that of 
 the Emperor Tiberius, wool of great fineness and beauty was exported from Truditania, 
 a part of Boetica ; and that rams were sold in that province for improving the breed for a 
 talent each, or about one thousand dollars. When the Roman Empire was overrun by 
 the barbarians, the Tarrentine stock of Italy, being very tender, became extinct; but the 
 improved stock of Boetica, living in the mountains, survived and perpetuated by the 
 Moors, who, skilled in the textile arts, could appreciate its value, still exists as the 
 merinos of Spain. If this view is correct, the merino race is the most important sur- 
 viving relic of the material civilization of the Greeks and Romans. I shall be exou>nl 
 for these remarks, which may be of little practical benefit, by those who appreciate the 
 sentiment of Niebuhr, the great historian of Rome, " that he who calls what has vanished 
 back into being, enjoys a bliss like that of creating." 
 
 * Pliny's Natural History (lib. viii. chap. 73): Centennos nummos, or a hun- 
 dred sesterces, a sesterce of the value of four cents. Allen's Classical Hand-book, 
 p. 110. 
 
 t Pliny's Natural History (lib. ix. chap. 63): Denariis milk, or a thousand 
 denarii, a denarius of the value of sixteen cents. Allen's Classical Hand-book, 
 p. 110. 
 
 t Muricibus Tyriis iteratse vellera lanae, epod, 12-21. 
 
 " It is no exaggeration to say that the introduction of this one color (the aniline 
 purple) has been a greater boon to the dyer than all the other inventions of the last ten 
 years put together. Not only is the hue yielded by the coal tar (purple) of a different 
 and better kind than any before known: it is likewise so fast, that it may, with indigo 
 blue and a few other colors, be considered as permanent." International Exhibition of 
 1862. Reports of Juries, Class 21.
 
 9 
 
 only in domestic manufacture, or in the abbeys where the 
 monks of the dark ages still pursued the arts necessary for 
 their own comfort. This decline in the arts continued until 
 the time of the Crusades, which effected a complete revolution 
 in industry and commerce. The Crusaders* found in Asia the 
 scattered fragments of the sciences and arts, and among others, 
 the processes for making those rich fabrics which had formed 
 the most luxurious vestments and furniture of the Romans.f 
 The States of Italy were the first which availed themselves of 
 these discoveries, making the mechanical arts auxiliary to the 
 commerce which they had revived on the ancient course of 
 navigation to the East. In the twelfth and thirteenth cen- 
 turies, Florence, Venice, Pisa, and Genoa, had arrived at great 
 perfection in manufactures. In those States we have the first 
 brilliant illustration of the influence of the industrial arts 
 upon the prosperity of the State. Florence owed her splendor 
 to the woollen manufacture with which she supplied the world. :j: 
 Machiavelli alludes to the sound of the moving shuttle which 
 resounded in all her streets, and he mournfully contrasts the 
 former cheerful hum of a busy industry with the stillness pre- 
 vailing, after the loss of this manufacture, through the plague 
 and change of traffic. It is no little boast for our indus- 
 try that it was the source of the commerce and wealth whose 
 magnificent fruits still survive in the wonders of Florentine 
 art. 
 
 * Mill's History of the Crusades, vol. ii. p. 346. 
 
 t Metellus Scipio, in the accusation which he brought against Cato, stated that 
 even in his time Biibylonian (Asiatic) coverings for couches were selling for 800,000 
 sesterces, or $128,000. In the time of Nero, they had risen to four million sesterces, 
 $640,000. Pliny's Natural History, lib. viii. chap. 73. 
 
 Some of the most ancient Asiatic forms survive unchanged in modern woollen 
 fabrics, such as the palm patten.s of shawls. Specimens of Cashmere shawls, of the 
 kind called Espouline in France, collected, in the year 835, by Theodolphus, Bishop of 
 Orleans, are preserved in the archives of the Bishopric du Puy de Velay. Pastoral 
 Life and Manufactures of the Ancients. New York, 1845. p. 94. 
 
 J Millar's Historical Views of the English Government, vol. ii. p. 370. James's His- 
 tory of the Worsted Manufacture, p. 20. 
 
 Quarterly Review, January, 1821, p. 296. 
 
 2
 
 10 
 
 The Netherlands, already advanced, as early as the tenth 
 century, in the manufacture of linen, which their soil produced 
 of admirable quality, readily appropriated from the Italians 
 the arts of manufacturing wool. Favored by their internal 
 water-carriage, which gave them supplies of material, and by 
 the middle station of their ports in the foreign navigation of 
 the maritime nations, they had outlets for their commodities 
 in all parts of Europe. They supplied themselves with wool 
 from England, to the vast amount of forty-five million pounds 
 in some years, and were aided, at one period, in obtaining wool 
 from Spain by the union of the sovereignties of Spain and the 
 Netherlands under Charles V. Flanders continued for a long 
 period to supply Europe with all the woollen cloths and stuffs 
 demanded by luxury or taste, and was the veritable centre 
 from which the arts of fabricating woollens spread in time to 
 all the other industrious nations of Christendom.* Flemish 
 wealth, derived mainly from this industry, was the envy of all 
 Europe. Letters and the fine arts were encouraged and flour- 
 ished, and the works of the Flemish, no less than the Floren- 
 tine painters, survive to illustrate the great truth that the true 
 source of the highest culture of a nation, and of its only 
 immortal monuments, is its industrial prosperity. 
 
 This sketch of the industry of Rome, Italy, and Flanders, is 
 but introductory to that of the great nation from which we 
 derive our language, institutions, and arts, and which, com- 
 manding a foreign trade of not less than twenty-one hundred 
 millions of dollars, and exporting annually her manufactures to 
 the amount of six hundred and fifty millions of dollars,! must 
 be first looked to for instruction and example by all nations 
 who seek their own industrial development. We find that our 
 own industry has played no mean part in securing England's 
 commercial prosperity. 
 
 * Hume's History of England, vol. ii. p. 398. Motley's Rise and Fall of the Dutch 
 Republic, p. 36. Millar, sttpr. cit. 
 
 t The Tariff Question, by Erastus B. Bigelow, p. 3.
 
 11 
 
 The climate of England is wonderfully fitted for raising cer- 
 tain breeds of sheep, and it is probable that our British ances- 
 tors were employed in the domestic production of woollen 
 goods from the earliest period that they had emerged into civi- 
 lization. Names derived from textile occupations must have 
 been early incorporated among English sirnames. The name 
 rendered so familiar by its quaint calligraphy upon our Trea- 
 sury notes, and that of New-England's great orator, are inherit- 
 ed from the ancient spinners and websters, or weavers of Eng- 
 land. Nevertheless, the English produced only common stuffs, 
 and exported, in the eleventh century, more than half their 
 wools to the Netherlands. In the early part of the fourteenth 
 century, the English are spoken of as " only shepherds and 
 wool merchants," and as " depending on the Netherlands, who 
 were the only wool-weavers in Europe.* In the latter part of 
 the fourteenth century, the manufacture of wool received its 
 first impulse in England, and became firmly transplanted upon 
 her soil by the protecting influence of Edward III., who thus 
 added to his title of hero of Cressy, the prouder name of 
 father of English commerce. The eyes of this enlightened 
 sovereign were opened to one of those simple facts which Eng- 
 land now expects to be invisible to all other nations. He saw, 
 in the quaint words of the author of the " Golden Fleece," 
 "that the subjects of the Duke of Burgundy, receiving the 
 English wool at sixpence a pound, returned it, through the man- 
 ufacture of that industrious people, in cloths at ten shillings, 
 to the great enriching of that State, both in revenue to their 
 sovereign and employment to their subjects. He at once 
 proposed hdw to enrich his people, and to people his new con- 
 quered dominions ; and both these he designed to effect by 
 means of his English commodity, wool." f The first great step 
 
 * The Pensionary De Witt, qiioted by Youatt. Sheep, their Breeds, &c., by Wil- 
 liam Youatt, p. 205. 
 
 t Smith's Memoirs of Wool, vol. i. p. 139. Youatt, p. 205.
 
 of Edward was to attract to England a large number of Flem- 
 ish families initiated in the arts of fabricating woollen goods ; 
 and it is said that " he not only royally performed his promises 
 to them, but he likewise invested them with privileges and 
 immunities beyond those of his native subjects." Seventy 
 families were brought over in the first year. England became 
 speedily enriched by " this treasury of foreigners," as Fuller 
 styles them in his Church History. " Happy," says he,* " the 
 yeoman's house into which one of these Dutchmen did enter, 
 bringing industry and wealth along with him. Such who 
 came in as strangers within doors, soon after went out bride- 
 grooms and returned sons-in-laws, having married the daugh- 
 ters of their landlords who first entertained them ; yea, those 
 yeomen in whose houses they harbored, soon proceeded gentle- 
 men, gaining them estates to themselves, arms and worship to 
 their estates." During his great military preparations, Edward 
 summoned a parliament, whose principal business it was to 
 make laws for the encouragement of the woollen manufacture 
 in England.f The exportation of rams was prohibited, and it 
 was decreed that no foreign cloth manufactures should be re- 
 ceived, and that no one even should wear cloth made beyond 
 the sea. Through these measures the manufacture became so 
 well established that the first export of English cloth dates from 
 this reign. A tax upon importations was substituted for the 
 prohibition, and in the twenty-eighth year of this reign 
 the exports of cloths were triple the imports."^ 
 
 * Fuller's Church History. London, 1842. Vol. i. p. 419. 
 
 t Bischoff on Wool, &c., vol. i. p. 55. 
 
 J In the sixth and seventh years of Elizabeth, the woollen manufacture had so 
 much increased that the export of woollen goods to Antwerp alone, according to Cnm- 
 den, amounted to 750,OOOZ. ; and the whole value of the exports in 1564 was 1,200,000?. 
 (Smith, vol. i. p. 72), all fabricated of English wool. The vigor of the woollen trade at 
 this period is attributed by Smith to the abundance of gold and silver, in consequence 
 of the recent discovery of South America. Mr. Bigelow has shown that the chief 
 causes of the large increase of British exports since 1853, usually attributed to the free- 
 trade acts, are found outside of the tariff laws, and principally in the greatly increased
 
 13 
 
 For five 'centuries the system of protection to the wool- 
 manufacturers, inaugurated by Edward III., was continued by 
 the succeeding sovereigns and parliaments of England. The 
 abstract of laws relating to the growers of wool and the manu- 
 facture thereof, made in 1772, enumerates three hundred and 
 eleven laws,* all tending to one object, the encourage- 
 ment of the manufacture. With this object the exportation of 
 wool, after being several times suspended, was definitely 
 prohibited in 1660, and so continued until the year 1825.f 
 The exportation of fuller's earth was forbidden. The expor- 
 tation of sheep was prohibited under the severest penalties ; 
 and even sheep-shearing could not be carried on within five 
 miles of the sea without the presence of a revenue officer. 
 To secure the manufacturers against a monopoly of wool, the 
 number of sheep to be kept by one person was limited to two 
 thousand. || One statute required that all black cloth and 
 mourning stuff worn at funerals should be made of British 
 wool alone ; another, which was carried into full effect for one 
 hundred and thirty years, or nearly to the present century, 
 ordained that every person should be buried in a shroud com- 
 posed of woollen cloth alone.^[ The export of woollen cloth from 
 England to any foreign ports was permitted without a duty.** 
 The export of woollen goods from Ireland, or any of the English 
 Plantations in America, was prohibited.! f Upon the application 
 of the London and Canterbury woollen weavers, the wearing of 
 
 supply of gold, the annual produce of which has tripled since 1848. The correspond- 
 ence between the periods of Elizabeth and Victoria is quite remarkable. The Tariff 
 Question, p. 17. 
 
 * Bischoff, vol. i. p. 6. See Bigelow's Tariff Question, p. 17. 
 
 t Porter's Progress of the Nation. London, 1851. p. 168. 
 
 J Youatt, p. 216. 
 
 Bischoff, vol. i. p. 244. 
 
 || Youatt, p. 216. 
 
 TT Youatt, p. 224. 
 
 ** First William and Mar}'. Bischoff, vol.J. p. 85. 
 tt Tenth and Eleventh William 111., chap. 10. Bischoff, vol. i. p. 89.
 
 14 
 
 Indian calicoes was forbidden, and afterwards,* when it was 
 apprehended that the rising cotton manufacture might inter- 
 fere with the great national industry of woollens, the use of 
 British printed calicoes was restricted to those only of a blue 
 color.f Even the great commercial companies of England lent 
 their protecting influence. The powerful East-India Company, 
 possessing the power to open an almost boundless market for 
 woollen goods, made it an invariable rule that in the cloth 
 which it exported, both the material and manufacture should 
 be British. This rule was inflexible till 1828.$ The arts of 
 diplomacy were not wanting on the part of England in aid 
 of her favorite interest. At the close of the seventeenth cen- 
 tury, Portugal, by interdicting the entry of foreign fabrics, had 
 succeeded in supplying her own population and Brazil with 
 woollen goods of her own manufacture^ In 1703, England, 
 having in view principally the interests of the woollen manu- 
 facture, made the famous Treaty of Methuen, by which, in 
 consideration of certain favors to Portuguese wines, she 
 secured the free admission to Portugal of her woollen goods. || 
 The English historian might well say, " this treaty hath 
 proved very advantageous to England, in the woollen trade 
 particularly." ^[ But this treaty was a mortal blow to Portugal. 
 Her manufacturing industry disappeared. While all Europe 
 progresses, Portugal remains stationary. The few of her pro- 
 ducts shown at the great Exhibition in 1862, were noticed only 
 for the melancholy representation which they gave of her 
 industry. 
 
 The measures of protection which were most significant of 
 
 * Bischoff, vol. i. p. 90. 
 
 t Bischoff, vol. i. p. 97. 
 
 | Report of Committee of House of Lords, 1828. Examination of Mr. Ireland. 
 
 Smith's Memoirs, vol. i. p. 394. "I appeal to every person," says Smith, 
 " that lived in Portugal from the year 1683 to 1703, during the time of the prohibition, 
 whether Portugal did not make cloth enough for herself and Brazil." 
 
 || Smith, vol. i. p. 394. 
 
 Tf See Smollett's History of England, vol. i. p. 568.
 
 15 
 
 the devotion of England to her manufacturing interests, were 
 the prohibition, for nearly a century and a half, of the exporta- 
 tion of British wool,* and the admission of foreign wool at a 
 merely nominal, or very moderate duty, in spite of the violent 
 reclamations of the landed aristocracy. In a v struggle of over 
 a hundred years with the manufacturers, the landed proprietors 
 had but one brief success, where they secured, for four years 
 only viz., from 1819 to 1824 a tax upon foreign wool of six 
 pence per pound. f It had become a deep-rooted sentiment of 
 British statesmen of every party, that their highest duty to the 
 State was the encouragement of their own manufactures, and, 
 first of all, those of wool, for so many years their chief export, 
 and peculiarly national staple, " eminently the foundation," 
 as it was called, "of English riches," $ and "the flower and 
 strength, the revenue and blood of England." The " wool 
 sack," upon which the Lord Chancellor of England has sat for 
 ages as the President of the House of Lords, is a symbolical tra- 
 dition of the importance which the nation has always attached to 
 the woollen industry. || It was declared by statute that '* wool 
 and woollen manufactures, cloth, serge, baize, kerseys, and 
 other stuffs, made or mixed with wool, are the greatest and 
 
 * " The one sole reason why England obtained the mastery of the ocean, and com- 
 mand of the world's business, is that she exported no raw material; and the reason why 
 the Southern States went into ruin by the route of rebellion is because they exported 
 nothing else." The Western States; their Pursuits and Policy, by Dr. William Elder, 
 p. 20. 
 
 t In 1802, a duty of 5s. 3d. sterling per cwt. was laid upon foreign wool. This was 
 gradually raised till it reached 6s. 8d. per cwt. In 1819, the ministers wanted to raise 
 1,400/. by a tax on malt; and the landed aristocracy refused their assent unless a tax was 
 laid on wool, and the tax of sixpence a pound was imposed, the bill having been hurried 
 through Parliament before the manufacturers could be heard. Bischoff, vol. i. p. 452. 
 
 { Sir Josiah Cliilds. Smith's Memoirs, vol. i. p. 157. 
 
 Golden Fleece. 1656. Smith's Memoirs, vol. i. p. 139. 
 
 || " The antiquitie of wool within this kingdom hath been beyond the memorie of 
 man, so highly respected for those many Benefits therein that a customable use has 
 always been observed to make it the seat of our wise learned judges in the sight of our 
 noble Peers (in the Parliament House) to imprint the memorie of this worthy Com- 
 moditie within the minds of those firm supporters and chief rulers of the land." John 
 May, 1613. Smith's Memoirs, vol. i. p. 91.
 
 16 
 
 most profitable commodities of the kingdom." * One of the 
 greatest English lawyers, Mr. Lawes, afterwards Lord Ellen- 
 borough, speaking of this interest before the House of Lords, 
 said,f " to state to your Lordships the extent of the manufac- 
 ture, would be to state that it is at least a third in point of 
 export, that it is a fourth of the national income, as derived 
 from all its various sources. Its magnitude is so important, its 
 connections with the vital interests of the country so close and 
 intimate, that it has been the principal object of attention in 
 the framing of the statutes upon your rolls from the earliest 
 period of any ascertained act of legislation of this country." 
 The encouragement of this industry had received the sanction 
 of the greatest of English names, even that of the founder of 
 experimental philosophy. Lord Bacon, addressing the future 
 ministers of his sovereign, patriotically exclaims, J " Let us 
 advance the native commodities of our own kingdom, and 
 emp/oifour own countrymen before strangers. Let us turn the 
 wools of the land into cloths and stuffs of our own growth. It 
 would set many thousands to work; and thereby one of the 
 materials would, by industry, be multiplied to five, ten, 
 and many times to twenty-five times more in value, being 
 wrought." It was by such lessons and traditions as these that 
 British legislators had become imbued with devotion to the 
 woollen trade, as with loyalty to the throne. In the whole 
 history of the world there is no such example of persistent 
 national care, continued alike through all administrations, in 
 peace and in war, under commonwealth and monarchy ; and 
 thus " fondled, favored, and cherished," to use the words of 
 Mr. Huskisson, the woollen manufacture in England has 
 advanced, with constantly increasing prosperity, only, in mod- 
 
 * Tenth and Eleventh William III., chap. 10. 
 t Bischoff, vol. i. p. 323. 
 
 \ Bischoff, vol. i. p. 321. From Mr. Lawes' speech. I do not find the passage in 
 Lord Bacon's Works. 
 Bischoff, vol. i. p. 5.
 
 17 
 
 ern times, overshadowed by its own offspring, the cotton man- 
 ufacture, and still surpasses that of all other nations in the 
 quantity and value of its fabrics. 
 
 " The rapid growth and prodigious magnitude of the cotton 
 manufacture of Great Britain," for a century has not elapsed 
 since its infancy, have been called " the most remarkable phe- 
 nomena in the history of industry."* But it should be 
 remembered that this industry was the natural offshoot from 
 the woollen manufacture. Through the protection of four 
 centuries afforded to the woollen trade mainly, and in a less 
 degree, only because they were less important, to the linen 
 and silk trades, England had become a nation of spinners and 
 weavers, or of artisans subsidiary to them. The textile crafts 
 had become, by hereditary transmission, as fixed as in the castes 
 of India. The skill and taste for textile industry was already 
 developed for application to a kindred fibre. Some of the first 
 and most important inventions which ifave produced the won- 
 derful results of the cotton manufacture, sprang directly from 
 that of woollens. To instance one only; John Kay, residing in 
 Colchester, where the woollen manufacture was then carried 
 on, devised the fly-shuttle, by which double the quantity of 
 doth, and of a better quality, could be produced by each work- 
 man, and with less labor. The Yorkshire clothiers were the 
 first to adopt his improvements, which form a part of every 
 power-loom of the millions of silk, cotton, linen, and woollen- 
 looms in all parts of the world. f The commerce and capital 
 which supplied the raw material from abroad for the rising 
 manufacture had grown up from the woollen trade principally ; 
 but it had exerted a more important influence in making capi- 
 talists familiar with the direct and incidental profits of maim 
 facturing industry, and in assuring them that the favor of 
 government, which had been extended for centuries to one> 
 
 * McCulloch's Commercial Dictionary, article Cotton, 
 t Brief Biographies of Inventors of Machines, by Bennett Woodcroft, p. 3. 
 
 3
 
 18 
 
 would never be wanting for a kindred interest. Hence capital 
 flowed by a natural transition into the new channel, and inven- 
 tion found a fresh field for its creative skill under the patent 
 system which England had inaugurated as a part of her pro- 
 tective policy. The subject which I have proposed for this 
 address, the national influence of our own peculiar manu- 
 facture, finds its most brilliant example in the history of 
 English industry, which no less illustrates the more important 
 truth, that any industry, thoroughly incorporated in the nation- 
 al existence, will have new offshoots and unexpected develop- 
 ments, and may enrich a nation even more than by its own 
 fruits, in opening fresh sources of productive power. 
 
 Towards the close of the last century the woollen manufac- 
 ture received in its turn the inventions first applied to cotton- 
 spinning. They were, first of all, the great discovery of Watt, 
 which furnished a motive-power everywhere applicable ; the 
 roller-spinning of Paul, adopted by Arkwright, which furnished 
 an automatic mechanism, instead of muscular force, which 
 drew and twisted the fibre in a continuous thread ; the jenny 
 of Hargreaves, which drew at once from ten to sixty or seventy 
 threads ; the mule of Crompton, which increased the power of 
 the spinner a hundred fold ; and the power-loom of Cartwright, 
 which quadrupled the power of the weaver.* All these inven- 
 tions, and what was equally important, the factory system of 
 Arkwright, were applied, upon a large scale, to the woollen 
 manufacture, first by Mr. Gott, who added the gig-mill for rais- 
 ing the wool on the cloth, and shearing-frames worked also by 
 power. These improvements gave a vast extension to the 
 manufacture. The use of woollen tissues increased with the 
 low price of production, which continued to advance with 
 accelerated progress. At the end of the eighteenth century 
 Great Britain already consumed in her fabrics ninety-four mil- 
 lions of pounds of her own wool, and eight millions imported. 
 
 * Woodcraft, p. 3, et seg.
 
 19 
 
 In 1828, the number of sheep in Great Britain had increased 
 one-fifth, and the average weight of the fleeces in equal pro- 
 portion.* Mr. Bernoville, in his admirable work on the " In- 
 dustry of Combed Wools," published in the report made to the 
 French government on the labors of the French Commission, 
 at the Universal Exposition of 1851, estimates the number 
 of pounds of wool in Great Britain in 1851 at two hundred 
 and eight million pounds, so that the production doubled in 
 fifty years. This increase of production was caused partly by 
 the increase of the number of sheep, but principally by the 
 increase in the weight of fleeces. Within that period a genu- 
 ine transformation has taken place in the English races. To 
 attain the utmost possible weight of mutton, sheep are fed to 
 their utmost capacity, and the increase of flesh is accompanied 
 by a corresponding increase of wool, which, losing in fineness, 
 has gained in strength, length, and brilliancy. While the 
 domestic production has made such extraordinary progress, 
 the importation has increased with equal rapidity. The eight 
 million pounds in 1801 have risen successively from sixteen 
 million pounds in 1821 to fifty-six millions in 1841, to eighty- 
 three millions in 1851, having increased tenfold in fifty years. 
 In 1859, the importation had reached one hundred and thirty- 
 three millions.! 
 
 There are no official statements of the amount or value of 
 the whole production of British manufactures, or of the popu- 
 lation employed in them ; we must, therefore, rely upon the 
 very general estimates of the best authorities, which, however, 
 differ so widely that we can merely approximate the totals of 
 production in the woollen manufacture. Mr. Bernoville, in the 
 work above quoted, estimating the mean value of the domestic 
 production of wool in Great Britain at one franc twenty cen- 
 
 * Porter's Progress of the Nation. London, 1851. p. 168. Industrie des Laines 
 peign^es, par M. Bernoville, p. 11. Travaux de la Commission Fran9aise, vol. iv. 
 t Bigelow's Tariff Question, Appendix, p. 198.
 
 20 
 
 times the pound, and the imported wool at one franc seventy 
 centimes, places the whole value of wool employed by British 
 industry at 370,000,000 francs, or $74,000,000. He estimates 
 that the value of this wool is increased once and a half times 
 by the manufacture, and that the annual production of woollen 
 fabrics in 1851 was 925,000,000 francs, or $185,000,000, and 
 the domestic consumption 679,000,000 francs, or $135,000,000. 
 Mr. Redgrave, one of her Majesty's Inspectors of Factories, 
 estimates the value of the British woollen and worsted manu- 
 factures in 1856 at 8183,492,725, and the domestic consump- 
 tion in Great Britain, $111,366,160, for each person of its 
 population at $4.25.* Mr. Simmonds, the editor of lire's 
 " History of the Cotton Manufacture," estimates the total pro- 
 duction of woollen goods in 1860 at $160,000,000, and the 
 domestic consumption at one-half that amount. This estimate 
 appears too small, and that of Mr. Redgrave seems most reli- 
 able. Judging from the progress of exports, sixty millions of 
 dollars in 1856, and eighty millions in 1860, the value of the 
 woollen manufactures in the United Kingdom cannot be short 
 of $200,000,000. The number of persons employed in the 
 woollen industry, in all its ramifications, was estimated in 1841 
 at 245,000 persons. This number must have vastly increased 
 in twenty years. Mr. Bernoville estimates them at 400,000 
 in 1851. Statistics have been procured, from time to time, 
 by the inspectors of factories in reference to establishments 
 under their supervision. They give the number employed 
 in the wool manufacture in 1856, at 79,091 ; and in the 
 worsted manufacture at 87,794; a total of 166,885. The num- 
 ber employed in 1835 is stated at only 71,274. The number 
 had more than doubled in twenty years, although the progres- 
 sive employment of mechanical means has had a tendency to 
 diminish the number of hands. Precise data are given only in 
 
 * Bigelow's Tariff Question. Appendix, p. 199.
 
 21 
 
 relation to establishments subject to the provisions of the Fac- 
 tory Acts, which make the whole number employed in all the 
 textile manufactures only 682,497. Mr. Redgrave estimates 
 that there are 887,369 persons employed in textile fabrics, not 
 subject to the provisions of the Factory Acts, which two classes 
 have dependent upon them at least 3,000,000 unemployed 
 persons, representing a total of 4,568,082 persons. Those 
 employed in the woollen and worsted manufactures constitute 
 very nearly a quarter of the whole number enumerated under 
 the provisions of the Factory Acts, which would give to the 
 woollen manufactures a population, depending upon them, of 
 over one million. This immense progress in the manufacture 
 of wool has been due principally to the advance in the manu- 
 facture of combing wools or worsted, which now employ directly 
 a larger number than fabrics of carded wool. This progress 
 is best illustrated by the rapid increase of population around 
 the manufacturing centres of the worsted trade. In the West 
 Riding, where there was only a population of 593,000 inhabi- 
 tants in 1801, it had risen, in 1841, to 1,154,000 ; it had 
 increased at Halifax from 63,000 to 130,000 ; at Huddersfield 
 from 14,000 to 38,000 ; at Leeds from 53,000 to 152,000. It 
 is still more remarkable at Bradford, the great centre of the 
 worsted trade. At the commencement of this century, when 
 this town had a population of only 13,000 souls, all the wool 
 was spun and woven in private houses of the workmen. In 
 1821, Bradford had doubled the number of its inhabitants, 
 which were 26,000. By the introduction of power-looms in 
 1834, and afterwards the use of cotton warps in woollen fab- 
 rics, and the employment of alpaca and Angora goat's wool, the 
 manufacturing industry was so developed that it sustained in 
 1851 a population of 103,000, an increase of ninety thousand 
 in half a century.* Such an increase in this country would 
 
 * Bernoville's Industrie des Laines peignees, p. 22. James's History of Worsted 
 Manufacture, p. 611, et. seq.
 
 22 
 
 appear by no means remarkable ; but in England, where the 
 question has been for centuries, how to employ the present 
 population of each year, the increase is truly marvellous. 
 
 One of the most interesting questions in the study of the 
 philosophy of manufactures is their influence upon the com- 
 fort of mankind in diminishing the cost of production. The 
 amounts and values of British exports are instructive upon 
 this question. 
 
 One of the largest exportations of woollen tissues from Eng- 
 land occurred in the year 1815, after relations had been estab- 
 lished with this country, which had been interrupted by the 
 war. It amounted to 9,381,000 in value, and 1,482,000 
 pieces, and twelve millions of yards. In 1851, it amounted to 
 2,637,000 pieces, and sixty-nine million yards. The number of 
 pieces, comprising cloths, damasks, and stuffs in general, had 
 almost doubled ; and the number of yards, consisting princi- 
 pally of articles of wool and cotton, had more than quintupled. 
 Yet the total value in 1851 was only 9,856,000, exceeding 
 the exportation of 1 815 about half a million. The increase of 
 cheapness consisted principally in fabrics of wool combined 
 with cotton.* 
 
 This progress in the cheapness of production has continued 
 since 1851. It is estimated in the report of the International 
 Exhibition of 1862,f from well authenticated data, that al- 
 though there was a clear and established advance of twenty- 
 five to twenty -eight per cent in the cost of wool between the 
 prices of 1851 and 1862, the manufacturers had cheapened 
 the prices of goods between the two periods from seven and a 
 half to ten per cent, the quality and weight being the same. 
 It is, perhaps, unnecessary to say that this increased cheapness 
 of production is no peculiarity of English manufactures. The 
 facts here mentioned illustrate a result which is sure to follow 
 
 * Bernoville, p. 18. 
 
 t International Exhibition of 1862. Report of Juries, Class 21.
 
 23 
 
 from any well established manufacturing industry. An in- 
 creased cheapness of production in England has been effected 
 by two other causes, one of which certainly will be regarded 
 by consumers with less favor. The first is, the use of cotton 
 warps, which are used as a vehicle to extend the surface of 
 wool to such a degree that millions of pounds of cotton are, as 
 it were, plated with this material. Vast establishments in 
 Lancashire are employed solely in making cotton warps, to be 
 woven with wool into what are called union fabrics.* The 
 second is, the combination of shoddy with wool. Twenty-five 
 years ago, woollen rags were worth about <4 per ton, and 
 were used only for manure. They are now worth, in England, 
 .40 per ton, to be converted again into cloth. It is estimated 
 that, in the neighborhood of Leeds, 7,000,000 to 8,000,000 
 yards of cloth, of the value of 815,000,000, are annually manu- 
 factured from this material ; and, that if the supply of shoddy 
 were stopped, it would close one-third of the woollen mills in 
 the United Kingdom, and bring distress upon the West Rid- 
 ing, in Yorkshire, as great as that lately suffered in Lanca- 
 shire from the want of cotton. It is disclosed in the report 
 on the London Exhibition of 1862, that sixty-five million 
 pounds of shoddy are annually consumed in England, a 
 greater quantity than the whole wool product in the United 
 States, estimated at 60,264,913 pounds by the census of 1860 ! f 
 It is one of the advantages of depending upon foreign impor- 
 tation for our goods, that we are in blissful ignorance of their 
 
 * Mr. Anderson, a gentleman of much experience in English wool, stated before an 
 agricultural club in England, that a single hogget fleece weighing twenty pounds, with 
 a length of staple of about seventeen inches, " when used in manufacture to its utmost 
 extent, as an admixture with cotton to fabricate the finest alpaca fabrics, would suffice 
 to make upwards of twelve pieces, each forty-two yards in length, and very possibly 
 might be extended to sixteen pieces, or six hundred and seventy-two yards." Ohio 
 Agricultural Report, 1863, p. 224. 
 
 I would, in this connection, invite attention to the most valuable and admirable 
 papers and communications on sheep, husbandry and wool, furnished for these reports 
 by Mr. Klippart, Secretary of the Ohio State Board of Agriculture. 
 
 t Eighth Census of the United States, vol. Agriculture, p. 86.
 
 24 
 
 origin, and are not shocked with the consciousness of being 
 clad in the cast-off habiliments of a Polish Jew or an Italian 
 beggar. 
 
 I will close this sketch by some general remarks upon the 
 character of the British industry in woollens. The whole 
 energies of British manufacturers are directed to supply the 
 masses with goods of the utmost cheapness. They do not seek 
 so much excellence in the fabrics as marketable products. It 
 was remarked by continental observers, at the two great expo- 
 sitions, that although fabrics of wonderful perfection were exhi- 
 bited, they were not specimens of the ordinary work of their 
 spindles and looms. The colors of their goods are excellent, 
 much better than their designs ; but, above all, they surpass in 
 the art of dressing their fabrics so as to conceal their defects 
 and make them attractive to purchasers. Their inventive 
 capacity is shown, particularly in the application to new uses 
 of the vast variety of raw materials which their extensive com- 
 merce supplies, but, more than all, in mechanical improve- 
 ments for substituting the iron frame for the human hand. 
 The breaking up of existing machinery and the replacing of 
 new is the marked feature in the present era of British manu- 
 factures. The abundance and cheapness of capital, cheap food 
 under the change in the corn laws, the free admission of raw 
 materials, a well founded confidence in friendly legislation, 
 and the establishment of mercantile houses in all parts of the 
 world, sustain England in the war which she is waging unceas- 
 ingly against the manufacturing industry of all other nations ; 
 and would render a strife against her utterly hopeless, without 
 the barriers of countervailing duties which the instinct of self- 
 preservation has placed around all other industrious nations. 
 
 The history of the woollen industry of France, the second in 
 the amount of its productions, and the first in the general 
 excellence of its products, exhibits the important part which 
 this industry performs in developing the national prosperity,
 
 25 
 
 and how it may flourish or decay under the favorable or 
 adverse policies of governments. 
 
 This industry received its first impulse in France, near the 
 close of the sixteenth century, from the celebrated edict of 
 Nantes, which restored to that country the Protestants, who 
 had become the most enlightened merchants and skilful work- 
 men in Europe. They brought from Germany, and the Low 
 Countries where they had wandered, the arts of spinning, 
 weaving, and dyeing woollens, and founded the first establish- 
 ments for making woollen cloths. The infant manufactures, 
 slightly advanced by the agricultural improvements of Sully, 
 who introduced some important breeds of sheep, and, languish- 
 ing under the inauspicious administration of Richelieu, were 
 finally planted in their present flourishing seats by Colbert, the 
 illustrious minister of Louis XIV. Under his administration, 
 the manufactures of new products created by the arts of Italy, 
 Holland, and Germany, were attracted to the French soil by 
 seductive offers made to foreign artisans. The woollen manu- 
 facture received his special attention. He obtained, from 
 Louis XIV., the disposal of fifty thousand livres to be distributed 
 in encouraging this industry. At this period, Holland alone 
 had attained any perfection in the manufacture of fine cloths. 
 Colbert attracted Gosse Van Robais from Holland, by enor- 
 mous concessions, to fabricate as his patent, signed by the 
 King, declared fine cloths, after the fashion of Spain and 
 Holland. Of this act Thiers says, "When Louis XIV. 
 struck down the Spanish power, Colbert, at his side, executed 
 conquests more important, by introducing the manufacture of 
 cloths into France." * Not content with naturalizing foreign 
 skill, he imposed heavy duties upon foreign manufactures, and 
 attempted the amelioration of flocks by imported breeds ; and 
 it is admitted that France owes to his wise acts and counsels 
 
 Industrie des Laines foule^s, par M. J. Randoing, p. 38. 
 4
 
 26 
 
 the most important developments of her industry.* It is with 
 great justice, then, that our own great political economist, 
 whose works, translated into five languages, have been adopted 
 as text-books in the universities of the continent of Europe, 
 has selected the name of the French financier to designate that 
 school of statesmanship which aims to develop, by protection 
 and encouragement, the industrial wealth of a nation. f 
 
 The woollen interest became again depressed under Louis 
 XV., in whose reign those arts alone flourished which adminis- 
 tered to pleasure and luxury. The manufacture revived under 
 Louis XVI., in whose reign merino sheep were naturalized in 
 France, to be again struck down by a fatal error of adminis- 
 tration. In 1786, a treaty was concluded between France and 
 England, which admitted into the latter country French pro- 
 ductions of luxury and taste, in exchange for an analogous 
 concession for the admission to France of English goods of 
 apparently small price, but which, suiting all classes, are the 
 essential bases of the industry of a people. This treaty was 
 the most fatal blow that the textile manufactures had ever re- 
 ceived. England, favored as we have seen by continued pro- 
 tection, had already made great progress in the capacity of 
 manufacturing at comparatively low prices. Before the lapse 
 of the second year from this treaty, France was so flooded by 
 English importations of cloth that she ceased to attempt even 
 to supply her own consumption. Although the policy of 1786 
 was speedily retraced, and protection restored, the French 
 manufactures had not recovered from the shock when the 
 revolution completed the prostration of all industry^ 
 
 * See the Works of Mr. H. C. Carey, passim. 
 
 t Smith, in his Memoirs, speaks thus instructively of this great statesman: "Mon- 
 sieur Colbert, erecting manufactures of wool in all parts of France, and prohibiting all 
 the English woollen manufactures to be imported among them, in a few years set the 
 poor to work throughout that kingdom; . . . the first consequence of which was, 
 that the King of France saw all his subjects clothed, however indifferently, with the 
 manufactures of their own country, who, but a few years before, bought all their 
 clothes from England. Vol. ii. p. 290. 
 
 t Randoing, Industrie des Laines foulee"s, p. 21. Manual of Social Science, by H. 
 C. Carey, p. 209.
 
 27 
 
 No sooner had the first Consul, Bonaparte, grasped, with a 
 firm hand, the reins of State s than he resolved to develop upon 
 the French soil all the elements of wealth concealed within its 
 bosom. He wished to appropriate for France all sciences, arts, 
 and industries. Made a member of the Institute, he uttered 
 this noble sentiment: "The true power of the French Repub- 
 lic should consist, above all, in its not allowing a single new 
 idea to exist which it does not make its own." * To learn the 
 necessities and resources of the nation, he called upon savans, 
 painters, and artisans, to adorn with their productions the vast 
 hall of the ancient Louvre. From this epoch a new career was 
 opened to the industry of France, which found its most magnifi- 
 cent protector in the chief of the State. Napoleon said : 
 " Spain has twenty-five millions of merinos ; I wish France to 
 have a hundred millions.''! To effect this, among other admin- 
 istrative aids, he established sixty additional sheepfolds to those 
 of Rambouillet, where agriculturalists could obtain the use of 
 Spanish rams without expense. By the continental blockade, 
 he closed France and the greater part of Europe against Eng- 
 lish importations ; and the manufacturers of France were 
 pushed to their utmost to supply, not only their domestic, but 
 European consumption. They had to replace, by imitating 
 them, the English commodities to which the people had been 
 so long accustomed. The old routines of manufacturing were 
 abandoned, and the reign of the Emperor became, in all the 
 industrial arts, one long series of discoveries and progress. 
 Napoleon saw that the conquest of the industry of England was 
 no less important than the destruction of its fleets and armies. 
 He appealed to patriotism, as well as science and the arts, 
 to aid him in his strife with the modern Carthage. Visiting 
 the establishment for printing calicoes of the celebrated Ober- 
 hampf, Napoleon said to him, as he saw the perfection of 
 
 * Bulletin de la Soctete Imperiale Zoologique d'Accliinatation, 2d Serie, t. i. p. 665. 
 t Bernoville, p. 133.
 
 28 
 
 the fabrics, Nous faisons tons deux la guerre a VAngle- 
 terre, mats je crois que le meilleure est encore la votre 
 " We are both of us carrying on a war with England ; but I 
 think that yours, after all, is the best." " These words," says 
 M. Randoing, " so flattering and so just, were repeated from 
 one end of France to the other ; they so inflamed the imagina- 
 tions of the people, that the meanest artisan, believing himself 
 called upon to be the auxiliary of the great man, had but one 
 thought, the ruin of England." * 
 
 The fabrications of cloths attained such high perfection dur- 
 ing this period, that since then the only progress has been the 
 modification of details. During this period the chemical arts 
 of dyeing attained the excellence so characteristic of French 
 colors; and, during this period, the mechanical genius of Ja- 
 quard, aided by the practical skill of Depouilly, produced the 
 loom which has been justly regarded as the greatest invention 
 in the art of weaving of the present century, and has only been 
 eclipsed by the great achievement of our own inventor, who 
 made the Jaquard loom automatic.! The profits acquired by 
 successful manufacturers, during this period of prosperity, 
 were immediately applied to the erection of vast factories, and 
 Mulhouse, St. Quentin, Tarare, and Roubaix, at present re- 
 nowned seats of the woollen, manufacture, received the ele- 
 ments of progress and wealth which they have not since ceased 
 to develop. Of all the conquests of Napoleon, the greatest by 
 far, the industrial independence of France, is still secure. J And 
 the assaults of British free trade are still unavailing against 
 
 * Randoing, p. 11. 
 
 t For an account of Mr. Bigelow's great invention, see Preliminary Report of Com- 
 missioner of Patents, 1863. The report says, " It now presents a machine which is ad- 
 mitted to be unsurpassed by any thing which the mechanical genius of man has ever 
 devised." p. 11. 
 
 J " Protection, the industrial creation of Napoleon, the most precious and principal 
 cause of his conquests." Industrie des cotons, par M. Mimirel, President du Council 
 General des Manufactures de France, etc. p. 6.
 
 29 
 
 the bulwarks of protection established through his maxims and 
 example.* 
 
 Thanks to the immortal founder of the industrial glory of 
 France, she has never been hoodwinked by the specious phi- 
 losophy of British free trade. She saw, when Mr. Huskisson 
 suppressed the prohibitory duty upon French silk, that it wrs 
 only because he could not suppress the contraband trade, and 
 because the duty of twenty-five per cent was a more efficient 
 protection of British silks. " When the British Parliament 
 applaud the absolute enfranchisement of commerce," says 
 Baron Dupin, in 1852, " they clap their hands, and these hands 
 are covered with English gloves, whose inferiority is protected 
 against foreign gloves by a duty of twenty-five per cent." 
 Whenever a new manufacture, not provided for in the tariff 
 regulations, has been attempted, the French have seen it 
 crushed by British capitalists, who had been instructed by Mr. 
 Brougham, that " England could afford to incur some loss on 
 the export of English goods, for the purpose of destroying for- 
 eign manufactures in their cradle" f " Three times," says 
 Dr. Sacc, " since the commencement of the present century, 
 have attempts been made in France to spin the wool of the 
 Angora goat. Each attempt has failed ; for, as soon as the 
 products appeared in the market, the English spinners lowered 
 the prices from twenty to twenty-five per cent, and rendered 
 competition impossible." J The Anglo-French Treaty of 1860, 
 although often referred to as evincing a change in the protec- 
 tive policy of France, still carefully guarded her manufactures. 
 The Leeds Chamber of Commerce, the highest authority in 
 relation to woollens, regarded the duties under that treaty as 
 prohibitory. Lord Grey asserted, without contradiction, in the 
 
 * Tableau Statistique des Industries, Francises du colon, de laine et de la soie, 
 par Baron Charles Dupin, p. 9. Travaux de la Commission Francaise, t. iv. 
 
 t Report of the Commissioner of Patents for the year 1861. Agriculture, p. 17. 
 t Bulletin de la Societe Imperiale Zoologique, &c., t. v. p. 679.
 
 30 
 
 House of Lords, that "France retained her whole system of 
 navigation laws. She bound herself to no duties on her manu- 
 factured goods lower than thirty per cent in the first instance, 
 and twenty-five per cent afterwards. The only articles, on 
 which she made any reduction, were coal and iron, which she 
 wanted in order to stimulate her manufactures." * 
 
 The condition of the woollen manufacture, under this system, 
 must be regarded with no little interest. The number of sheep 
 in France in 1851, according to Mr. Bernoville, who is my prin- 
 cipal authority in the following statements, f was 40,000,000. 
 Each fleece, upon an average, comprising the lambs, weighing, 
 washed upon the back, about 1 T 8 ^ kilogramme, the 40,000,- 
 000 of sheep give the number of 72,000,000 kilogrammes, 
 158,832,000 Ibs., as the whole weight of domestic wool, worth, at 
 a minimum of 3 francs 50 centimes per kilogramme, the average 
 of the qualities, 252,000,000 francs. The mean of importation 
 duty paid for these years was of the value of 55,000,000 francs, 
 making the total value of wool employed 307,000,000 francs. 
 The value of the raw wool, which enters into the average French 
 tissues, is estimated at one-third of the price of the tissues when 
 they enter into the hands of the consumer. The value of the 
 raw wool, tripled, is 921,000,000 francs, or $184,200,000. The 
 mean of exportation for three years before, including 1851, was 
 116,000,000 francs, or $23,200,000. There remained 805,000,- 
 000 francs, or $161,000,000, as the value of the domestic con- 
 sumption in France in 1851. 
 
 The average of French exportation of woollens from 1827 to 
 1836, was 38,000,000 francs. The exportation of the same 
 fabrics in 1851 was 122,500,000 francs. Thus there was an 
 increase of exportations iu twenty years of 220 per cent. 
 The exportations of woollens from England were, in 1830, 118,- 
 000,000 francs, or $23,600,000 ; in 1851, 246,000,000 francs, 
 
 * Bigelow's Tariff Question, p. 38. 
 
 t Industrie des Laines peiguees, p. 135, el seq.
 
 31 
 
 or 149,200,000. The increase in twenty years was 110 per 
 cent. While England had doubled her exportations, France 
 had tripled hers, besides supplying her domestic consumption. 
 Thus the acknowledged protective system of France had ac- 
 complished more for her foreign commerce than the so-called 
 free trade of England had done for British exterior con- 
 sumption. Assured by the increased prosperity of her man- 
 ufactures, of the domestic consumption of all her native wools, 
 France, while continuing the duties on her manufactures, has 
 diminished the duty on raw materials. In 1861, her exporta- 
 tions of woollens amounted to 188,000,000 francs ; in 1862, 
 221,000,000 francs; and, in 1863, to 283,000,000 francs, or 
 $56,000,000. 
 
 I have been able to obtain estimates of the number of per- 
 sons employed in only one branch of the French woollen 
 manufacture, that of combing wool. Mr. Bernoville* estimates 
 that France, in 1851, employed constantly 800,000 spindles in 
 the fabrication of combing wool; that each spindle produced 
 twelve kilogrammes of yarn, representing nineteen kilo- 
 grammes of washed wool, worth at least 5 francs 25 centimes 
 per kilogramme. At that, the 800,000 spindles consumed 15,- 
 200,000 kilogrammes (33,431,200 Ibs.), worth, in round num- 
 bers, 80,000,000 francs. He estimates that the various ma- 
 nipulations which the wool undergoes in fabrication, including 
 the selling, adds two and one-half times to the original value 
 of the wool, making the total cost of wool, and fabrication of 
 combing wool, 280,000,000 francs. The 800,000 spindles pro- 
 duce 9,600,000 kilogrammes of yarn, representing 8,400,000 
 fleeces, of which 5,800,000 are produced by French sheep. It 
 is ascertained, from the statistics of M. Billiet, that this wool, 
 from the shepherd to the spinner inclusive, employs 51,000 
 workmen, who receive a total salary of 26,182,976 francs. It 
 is calculated that two looms occupy five persons, and each wea- 
 
 * Industrie des Laines peigndes, p. 139.
 
 32 
 
 ver uses about eighty kilogrammes of spun wool. The 9,600,- 
 000 kilogrammes give employment to 120,000 looms, which 
 gives the number of 300,000 workmen employed in weaving. 
 It is estimated that in dyeing, bleaching, printing, and selling, 
 20,000 more persons are employed. Estimating the average 
 pay of each of the 320,000 workmen, exclusive of the spinners, 
 at 1 franc 25 centimes a day for three hundred days' work, 
 and adding the salary included in the spinning, Mr. Bernoville 
 arrives at the sum of 146,000,000 francs distributed among 
 371,000 men, women, and children, which would allow 
 393 francs 55 centimes, or $78.70 to each person. These 
 estimates furnish data by which we may arrive at a general 
 estimate of the number employed in all the branches of the 
 woollen manufacture. The value of the fabrication of comb- 
 ing wool was 280,000,000 only of her 921,000,000, the esti- 
 mated value of the whole fabrication ; leaving a value of 
 641,000,000 in other branches. These branches, by the rates 
 established in the estimates above given, would employ 849,000 
 persons, making nearly a million and a quarter as the number 
 of persons directly employed in the woollen manufactures of 
 France. 
 
 In studying the characteristics of the French manufacturers, 
 and the part they have taken in advancing the general pro- 
 gress of the woollen industry, and in adding to the means of 
 consumption, we observe that they have not attained that 
 economy of production which so eminently distinguishes the 
 British manufacturers. Supplied with abundant labor, sup- 
 ported by cheap sustenance, the French manufacturers have 
 been content to remain far behind the British and Americans 
 in the substitution of machinery for human labor. But the 
 tendency of machinery, as they think, is to give mediocrity to 
 manufactured products; and the French aim at the utmost 
 excellence in their works. The individual skill or handicraft 
 of the workman is developed to the utmost extent. All ma-
 
 33 
 
 chinery is rejected which will not surpass the manipulations of 
 the hand. Spinning, the foundation of good textures, is car- 
 ried by them to the utmost perfection. Yarns, spun from 
 combed or carded wool by the rival nations, exhibited at the 
 great London exposition, were carried ten, twenty, and even 
 thirty numbers higher by French spinners with the same 
 wool.* They excel equally in ameliorating raw materials, in 
 making them softer and more flexible. The French, in the 
 textile arts, are creators; while the English are exphiteurs. 
 The one nation invents new fabrics, new combinations of old 
 materials, new styles and patterns, or what, in a word, are 
 called French novelties. The other works up these ideas, 
 copies, transforms, dilutes, and, above all, cheapens. Most 
 other nations follow the English example, and our own is as 
 yet no exception. To specify the contributions of inventive or 
 creative genius of France to the woollen industry, we must 
 class, first among the machines, the Jaquard, already referred 
 to, whose wonderful products are seen in all figured textures ; 
 and next, the machinery for combing wool and also cotton, of 
 Heilman, of Mulhouse, an invention which possesses interest, 
 not only on account of its vast importance, but the circum- 
 stances of its origin. The most novel and valuable part of 
 this machine, as stated by the inventor, which he had long 
 unsuccessfully endeavored to obtain, was ultimately accom- 
 plished by carrying into mechanical operation a suggestion 
 which occurred to him whilst watching his daughters combing 
 their hair. He was at that time meditating on the hard faie 
 of inventors generally, and the misfortunes which befel their 
 families. This circumstance, says Mr. Woodcroft, being com- 
 municated to Mr. Elmore, of the Royal Academy, was embod- 
 ied by him in a picture which was exhibited, and greatly 
 admired, at the Royal Academy in 1862. f We all practise or 
 
 * Bernoville. 
 
 t Brief Biographies of Inventors, &c., p. 45. 
 5
 
 34 
 
 use French creations without suspecting their origin. Before 
 1834 the colors of all fulled cloths were uniform. At that 
 time Mr. Bonjean, of Sedan, conceived the idea, to give beauty 
 to the productions of his looms, of uniting in the same stuff 
 different tints and figures. His thought was that the domain 
 of production would be as illimitable as that of fantasy, which 
 was the name given to his goods. He was the originator of the 
 product and name of fancy cassimeres, by far the most im- 
 portant branch of our own cloth manufacture.* The French, 
 already skilled in making light gauzes of silk, first made 
 bareges in 1818 ; f a fabric with a weft of wool and warp of 
 silk. The English imitated the fabric by substituting cotton 
 for silk in the warp. In 1826, Mr. Jourdain first produced, at 
 the establishment of Troixvilles, that invaluable fabric, mouss- 
 eline de laine, made of fine wool, for printing. ^ In 1831, the 
 manufacture and printing of this tissue was fully developed. 
 In 1838, he also created challis, made of a warp of silk organ- 
 zin and a weft of fine wool. In 1833, first appeared at Paris, 
 simultaneously introduced by three French houses, that fabric 
 so appropriate for the consumption of the masses, the mousseline 
 de laine, with cotton warps. The English adopted the manu- 
 facture in 1834-5, and it prevails in every manufacturing 
 nation. This fabric, which is unquestionably a French idea,j| 
 has been an inestimable blessing. Its products are counted by 
 millions of pieces, and it enables the most humble female to 
 clothe herself more comfortably and becomingly, and as cheap- 
 ly, with wool, as she could thirty years ago with cotton. In 
 1858, plain bareges were introduced, for printing. These had 
 before been made of colored threads ; at the same time, balso- 
 rine, having the effect of alternate fabrics of cloth and gauze, 
 was created in wool in imitation of a flaxen fabric. ^[ The 
 
 * Randoing. Industrie des Laines Ibult-es, p. 23. 
 
 t Bernoville, p. 179. J Bernoville, p. 186. 
 
 Bernoville, p. 186. || Bernoville, p. 187. 
 
 T[ Beruoville, p. 188.
 
 35 
 
 foulards, with a warp of silk and weft of English combing, were 
 introduced about this time at St. Denis.* The fabric, how- 
 ever, most appreciated by female taste, and the most unrivalled 
 of modern woollen textures, and the only one not degraded by 
 imitation, is that beautiful material which derives its name from 
 the fleece of which it is made, the French merino. This tissue 
 was first made at Rheims, in 1801, by a workman named 
 Dauphinot Pallotan.f The invention, for which a patent was 
 asked, whether successfully or not is not known, consisted sole- 
 ly in the adaptation of a peculiar type of wool, and not in the 
 fabric. I shall refer to tbis fabric in another connection, to show 
 that the intelligent skill of the agriculturalist is no less import- 
 ant than the genius of the artisan in developing the manufac- 
 turing prosperity of a nation. 
 
 The creative genius of the French is more conspicuous 
 in their arts of design and color, as applied to all textile 
 products. There is an unlimited application of these arts 
 and a boundless field for novelties, in the modern use of 
 printed woollen goods. All the manufacturers of France, 
 in producing new styles of fabric or figure, nourish their 
 tastes by Parisian ideas, the inheritance of the ancient splen- 
 dors of Versailles. Says Mr. Bernoville : "At Paris, each con- 
 sumer is a judge, and becomes a guide to the merchant 
 and manufacturer. The Parisians appreciate only what is 
 good, and consecrate only what is beautiful. The grisette as 
 well as the g-rande dame, the artisan as well as the dandy, has 
 received, and practises, without knowing it, the traditions of 
 art." $ Although important commercial houses are now estab- 
 lished for the sale of designs elaborated in this school, there is 
 no manufacturer in Europe who scruples to copy French pat- 
 terns. We have even so framed our patent laws that, while 
 protecting all other foreign works of invention, we might appro- 
 
 * Bernoville, p. 185. t Bernoville, p. 195. J Beruoville, p. 175.
 
 36 
 
 priate with impunity the productions of the Parisian pencil 
 and pallet. 
 
 Thus, by importation as well as imitation, all over the world, 
 the true lovers of the beautiful, as well as " the sophists, econo- 
 mists, and calculators," whose advent, upon the fall of Maria 
 Antoinette, is so pathetically lamented by Burke,* acknowledge 
 France, so gracefully symbolized by Eugenie, the empress of 
 taste and fashion. 
 
 I shall not attempt to review the woollen industries of the 
 other manufacturing countries of Europe, and will confine 
 myself to a brief notice of four other nations, the most dis- 
 tinguished for their resistance to the commercial policy of 
 England. In the reports of the Bradford Chamber of Com- 
 merce for 1864-5, kindly sent me by our consul at Sheffield, 
 Mr. Abbott, who has charge also of the vice-consulates of Brad- 
 ford, Leeds, and Huddersfield, I find bitter complaints of the 
 tariff regulations of Austria, Sweden, Spain, and Russia, as 
 affecting, most injuriously, the woollen trade of Bradford. The 
 Austrian tariff is spoken of as presenting " features of the 
 most objectionable character," while " the duties are almost 
 prohibitory, and unjust to England." The Swedish tariff is 
 referred to as having " the unfortunate distinction of disputing 
 with Spain the debatable honor of being the highest in the 
 world, the Russian alone excepted." Of Russia, it is said, 
 " the importation of manufactured tissues is practically pre- 
 vented by a scale of duties higher than any in the world ;" 
 and that the value of only .46,258 of British woollens and 
 worsteds were exported to that country in 1862. It is a mat- 
 ter of no little interest to us to know the manufacturing con- 
 dition of the nations which have made such declarations of 
 independence. 
 
 * "But the age of chivalry is gone; that of sophisters, economists, and calculators, 
 have succeeded, and the glory of Europe is extinguished forever." Reflections on the 
 Revolution in France. London, 1791, p. 60.
 
 37 
 
 Austria consumes about 70,000,000 pounds of wool per year, 
 and its annual production of woollen fabrics amounts to about 
 $50,000,000 per year. It supplies its own population, and 
 exports to the Levant, Asia, the United States, and even China. 
 Its manufactures of woollens were stimulated, first, by almost 
 absolute prohibition, and have been since encouraged by duties 
 highly prohibitory. What is the condition of the manufacture 
 thus aided by the national favor ? Let the disinterested testi- 
 mony of an English expert answer. The reporter on the class 
 of woollens, in the London Exhibition of 1862, says: " There is 
 no inland country in Europe which has made so much pro- 
 gress in woollen manufactures during the last ten or twelve 
 years as Austria. It has not only maintained and improved 
 its reputation for fine plain woollens, doeskins, heavy coatings, 
 <fcc., but has made wonderful advances in fancy trouserings. 
 They are no longer imitations of French, English, or other 
 designs, but display an originality highly creditable to the 
 manufacturer. Their woollen dyeing is the best in the whole 
 exposition. The whites, scarlets, oranges, and other shades, 
 possess a clearness, richness, and fulness of color, not attained 
 by any other country." 
 
 Sweden, although enjoying few advantages of soil, climate, 
 and position, owes to the policy which the Bradford merchant 
 calls " a debatable honor," her present honorable place in the 
 community of nations. Her population has steadily advanced. 
 Her importation of foreign luxuries of food has greatly in- 
 creased. Her agriculture has been developed. In the ten 
 years ending in 1787, her importation of grain had been 196,- 
 000,000 pounds. In the decade ending in 1853, it was but 
 34,000,000, while the population had almost doubled. Lands 
 have increased in value, property is divided, a taste for litera- 
 ture is extending, and the people have secured political repre- 
 sentation. In the short space of thirteen years the iron manu- 
 facture had nearly doubled.* The manufacture of woollens in 
 
 * Carey, Manual of Social Science, p. 246.
 
 38 
 
 the large establishments has been so successful that it is said 
 that " the worsted and mixed fabrics are such exact imitations 
 of Bradford goods that the most acute judges can scarcely dis- 
 tinguish the difference." The manufacture of woollen cloth 
 is found everywhere throughout the country in the houses of 
 the people. Compare the condition of the people of Sweden, 
 iinder their system of industrial independence, with that of 
 the population of Ireland, or of Turkey, where men, com- 
 pelled to abandon weaving and spinning and gathering mul- 
 berry leaves and feeding silk worms, can earn but five cents a 
 day,* to which condition the policy of the Bradford merchant 
 would reduce them. " The people of Sweden," says a travel- 
 ler quoted by Mr. Carey, " seem to unite, on a small scale, all 
 the advantages of a manufacturing and agricultural population 
 more fully than in any district I have ever seen. The men do 
 the farm business, while the women drive a not less profitable 
 branch of industry. There is full employment, at the loom or 
 in spinning, for the old and young of the female sex. Ser- 
 vants are no burden. ABout the houses there is all the neat- 
 ness of a thriving manufacturing, and the abundance of an 
 agricultural population. The table-linen, laid down even for 
 your glass of milk and piece of bread, is always clean ; the 
 beds and sheets are always nice and white. Everybody is well 
 clad, for their manufacturing, like their farming, is for their 
 own use first, and the surplus only as a secondary object, for 
 sale ; and from the number of little nick-nacks in their house- 
 holds, the good tables and chairs, window-curtains and blinds 
 (which no hut is without), clocks, fine bedding, papered rooms, 
 and a few books, it is evident that they lay out their winnings 
 on their own comfort, and that these are not on a low scale of 
 social well-being." 
 
 Spain, which also enjoys " the unfortunate distinction" of pro- 
 
 * Report of the Commissioner of Patents for 1861: Agriculture, p. 12.
 
 39 
 
 tecting her industry, was driven to this policy by seeing, under 
 her colonial system, her home industry abandoned, her artisans 
 and farmers dying out, her towns and cities decaying, and her 
 lands monopolized by the nobles and the church. Fortunately 
 she lost her colonies, and was compelled to look at home. Her 
 agriculture, manufactures, and commerce, have doubled in the 
 last twenty-five years. Provided with that wonderful breed of 
 sheep which has been the great ameliorator of most of the 
 flocks in the world, and which, according to the statement of 
 Her Catholic Majesty's Secretary of State in 1854, still sur- 
 vives in its original perfection,* Spain has made remarkable 
 progress in her woollen manufactures, and will not be likely to 
 abandon the system which sustains them when even English 
 judges say of them as follows : " Upon the whole, it is evident 
 that Spain now possesses manufacturers of great enterprise, 
 artisans of first-rate skill, and machinery of the best and most 
 approved kinds. The progress made by the Spanish woollen 
 manufacturers since 1851, is of a most striking character, dis- 
 playing results which bring their productions almost on a par 
 with the most advanced manufacturers of any country. The 
 printing of their dyes, and clearness and beauty of their 
 blended colors, are equal to those of France, Austria, and the 
 United Kingdom. f 
 
 Russia, which wears the crown of "debatable honor" in Eng- 
 lish eyes, was, fifty years ago, merely an agricultural nation. 
 Manufactures began to spring up under the continental sys- 
 tem, but were crushed by the policy of Alexander, who, at the 
 close of the war, gave free admission to the goods of his late 
 ally. In 1824, Count Nesselrode established the system which 
 achieved the industrial independence of Russia. That empire 
 has now 45,000,000 sheep, of which 18,000,000 are merinos. 
 In 1849, the woollen industry employed 495,000 workmen, 
 
 * Ohio Agricultural Report, 1802, p. 498. 
 
 t International Exhibition of 1862. Reports of Juries, Class 21.
 
 40 
 
 distributed in 9,172 establishments ; besides employing a vast 
 number in making carpets and common stuffs in the cottages 
 of the peasantry. It supplies almost entirely the domestic 
 consumption, including clothing for her vast army, none of 
 which was made in the empire before 1824. In cloths alone 
 the production is more than $20,000,000. Russia exports even 
 more woollen goods than she imports. In 1850, she imported 
 woollen goods of the value of $1,000,000, and exported to the 
 amount of over $2,500,000, principally to China and Central 
 Asia.* The people of Russia, employed by this and kindred 
 manufactures, consume at home the enormous products of 
 their agriculture. Of the 1,600,000,000 bushels of corn, which 
 is the product of their soil, they export only 15,000,000, less 
 than one per cent of the total cereal product. The question 
 arises, Can manufactures, so completely exempted from foreign 
 competition, attain that excellence which is necessary for true 
 industrial progress ? Let the English judges again answer. 
 They say, in 1861, " Those who remember the woollen goods 
 exhibited from Russia, in 1851, and compare them with the 
 goods exhibited now, cannot fail to be struck with the remark- 
 able progress made in every branch of manufacture, cloths, 
 beavers, fancy cassimeres, mixed fabrics, and shawls, <fec. ; all 
 bear evidence of the improvement, and show a degree of excel- 
 lence, which, as regards make and finish, place the production 
 of Russia on a par with some of the oldest manufacturing 
 countries." f 
 
 The present manufacturing prosperity of these, as well as 
 other industrial States of continental Europe, naturally sug- 
 gests this inquiry, What would have been the future indus- 
 trial condition of continental Europe, if, at the time when 
 peace restored the nations to labor, the textile manufactures 
 had been left to their own free course, and no legislation had 
 
 * Bernoville, Industrie des Laines peign^es, p. 90, ft seq. 
 
 t International Exhibition of 1862. Reports of Juries, Class 21.
 
 intervened to regulate their progress? Can there be any 
 doubt that they would have become the exclusive occupation 
 of England ? Alone in the possession of steam power and 
 machinery ; alone provided with ships and means of transport ; 
 alone endowed, through her stable legislation, with capital to 
 vivify her natural wealth, she had absolute command of the 
 markets of the continent. The question was presented to 
 the continental nations, whether they should accept the cheap 
 tissues of England, or, at some sacrifices, repel them, to appro- 
 priate to themselves the labor and profit of their production. 
 The latter course was successively adopted, with some modifi- 
 cations, by each of the continental nations ; and with what 
 results to their own wealth, and the industrial progress and 
 comfort of the world ! Instead of a single workshop, Europe 
 has the workshops of France, Russia, Austria, Prussia,* Bel- 
 gium, Sweden, Denmark, Spain, each clothing its own people 
 with substantial fabrics ; each developing its own creative 
 genius and peculiar resources ; each contributing to substitute 
 the excellence of competition for the mediocrity of monopoly ; 
 each adding to the progress of the arts and the wealth and 
 comfort of mankind. 
 
 It remains for me now to illustrate the national importance 
 of the wool manufacture by the industry of our own country. 
 I shall not attempt to describe the successive steps of the pro- 
 gress by which this manufacture has attained its present posi- 
 tion. I can add nothing which is not already familiar to the 
 members of this Association, or which may not be found in easily 
 accessible sources of information. The most striking feature in 
 the brief history of our manufacture is its instability. As in 
 
 * " The trade of Germany at the beginning of the century was hides, tallow, tlax. and 
 wool, exported lor doth and cutlery in return: and llonapartc could make their territory 
 his lighting-ground. Since the battle of Waterloo they have been making their own 
 cloths and cutlery; and his nephew, with more resources and stronger alliances, was 
 obliged to keep within the line of war with Austria which the rot of (icnnany prescribed." 
 Dr. Elder, The Western States, their Pursuits and Policy, p. 20. 
 
 6
 
 42 
 
 the continental states of Europe manufactures were called into 
 being by their respective governments, the very existence of the 
 woollen industry in this country depended upon the national 
 legislation, or such a state of national affairs as would restrain 
 the competition of the older and well-established foreign manu- 
 factures. By the war of 1812, which accomplished for this 
 country what the continental blockade did for France, the wool- 
 len manufacture was brought up from a product of only 
 4,000,000 in 1810 to 19,000,000 in 1815 ; only to be over- 
 whelmed by the enormous importation, at the close of the war, 
 of 70,000,000 in woollens and cottons at an ad valorem duty 
 of 5 per cent.* Reviving in 1816, by the aid of a duty of 25 per 
 cent, and the free admission of raw material, the interest was 
 depressed again in 1820, by the fall of the duty to 20 per cent. 
 The manufacturers were stimulated to new enterprises by the 
 increased duty of 33^ per cent established after June, 1825, and 
 by the still increased rates of the tariff of 1827 ; but the ex- 
 pected benefits were neutralized by the high duties placed 
 upon the raw material. The characteristic instability was 
 continued under the biennial reductions of the compromise 
 policy of 1832. The stimulus of the favorable tariff of 1842 
 was followed by the crushing influence of the ad valorem 
 tariff of 1846, which, placing an equal duty upon wool and its 
 manufactures, and in some cases a higher duty upon the 
 former, gave no protection, or discriminated against American 
 fabrics. The effect of this measure was the destruction of 
 American broadcloths, and, at the same time, the extinguish- 
 ment of our Saxony sheep. The tariff of 1857 was productive 
 of some benefit by enlarging the free list. Finally, the so-called 
 Morill tariff of 1861, since modified by the law of 1864, 
 gave, not by increasing the duty, but by establishing just rela- 
 tions between the duties on manufactures and raw material, the 
 
 * At this time, full-blooded merinos sold for one dollar apiece. Bucks had been sold 
 during the war for a thousand dollars apiece. Randall's Practical Shepherd, p. 24.
 
 first encouragement that our industry might be established 
 upon a permanent basis, and become here what it is elsewhere, 
 a pillar of national prosperity. Notwithstanding the legisla- 
 tion, often unfriendly and always uncertain, the woollen manu- 
 facture had become established in 1860 as a great industrial 
 power, and, by the amount, variety, and excellence of its pro- 
 ducts, had proved itself eminently worthy of national favor. 
 
 I am indebted to Mr. Kennedy, the late admirable Superin- 
 tendent of the Census of 1860, for proof-sheets of the chapters 
 on " woollen " and " worsted goods " of the forthcoming 
 volume of the Census upon "Manufactures;" a work which, 
 while passing through the press, has been most cruelly taken 
 from the hands of the one who conceived and executed it. 
 The total values of the several manufactures of wool in 1860 
 were as follows : 
 
 Carpets $7,857,636 
 
 Hosiery 7,280,606 
 
 Wool-carding 2,403,512 
 
 Worsted Goods 3,701,378 
 
 Woollen Goods (including yarns, blankets, 
 
 and shawls) 61,895,217 
 
 Total $83,138,349 
 
 " On the first of June, 1860, the number of establishments 
 employed on woollen goods, exclusive of worsted dress goods, 
 was 1,260. They represented a capital of 130,862,654, and 
 consumed 83,608,468 pounds of wool, and 15,200,061 pounds 
 of cotton, costing, with all other materials, $36,586,887. They 
 worked 3,209 sets of machinery. They gave employment to 
 24,841 male and 16,519 female hands, or 41,360 persons, whose 
 annual wages cost $9,808,254. The aggregate value of the 
 product amounted to $61,895,217." 
 
 " With a decrease of 557 in the number of establishments, as 
 compared with the census of 1850, doubtless in part occasioned 
 by a more complete exclusion from the recent tables of such
 
 accessory and kindred branches as wool-carding and worsted 
 mills, the aggregates show an increase of $4,791,112, or 18-3 
 per cent in capital invested ; $11,674,432, or 46-8 per cent in 
 the expenditure for raw materials ; 6,465, or 18-5 per cent 
 in the number of hands ; and $2,640,354, or 36-8 per cent in 
 the annual cost of wages, while the aggregate value of the 
 manufactured product appreciated $18,352,929, or 42-14 per 
 cent upon the returns of 1850. The gross proceeds of the 
 manufacture, after deducting the cost of materials and labor, 
 was $15,527,367, or upwards of fifty per cent upon the capital 
 employed, to cover the interest on capital, the wear and tear of 
 machinery, and various incidental expenses." 
 
 "The consumption of wool amounted to an average of 2'61 
 pounds per capita for the entire population of the Union. It 
 was in the proportion of five and one-half pounds to every 
 pound of cotton used in the business. The quantity of cloth 
 manufactured exceeded the amount returned in 1850 by 42,- 
 691,210 yards, or fifty-two per cent, and the weight of yarn was 
 2,106,870 pounds, or nearly fifty per cent greater than in that 
 year. The product in cloth was equivalent to nearly four 
 yards to each inhabitant of the Union, and in value averaged 
 nearly two dollars ($1.97) per capita. The average annual 
 wages of each operative was $237, or $32 greater than in 1850." 
 (Compare this with the annual wages of the French workman, 
 $78.70 !) 
 
 According to the same report, the worsted manufacturers had 
 in 1860 an invested capital of $3,460,000. " They employed 1 10 
 sets of cards, and 1,101 male and 1,277 female hands, whose 
 aggregate yearly wages amounted to $488,736. The raw ma- 
 terials were 3,000,000 pounds of wool, worth $1,554,000; 
 1,653,000 pounds of cotton, costing $196,640, besides madder, 
 and other dye-stuffs, coal, oil, <fec., costing altogether $2,767,- 
 700. The cost of wool was 51 cents, and of cotton 11-8 cents 
 a pound. The aggregate product was 22,500,000 yards, valued 
 at $3,201, 378."
 
 45 
 
 Keeping in mind the total value of our manufactures of 
 wool in 1860, according to the census returns, we have some 
 means of forming an estimate of the progress of our manufac- 
 tures since that period, from the reports of the Internal 
 Kevenue for 1864. From the amount of internal revenue paid 
 upon those classes of manufactures of wool enumerated at 
 three per cent, I have calculated the total value upon which 
 that revenue was paid in each State. The aggregate is $121,- 
 868,250.33. It will scarcely be suspected that the value has 
 been exaggerated. The value in each State is as follows : 
 
 Massachusetts $40,603,651.00 
 
 Pennsylvania 16,599,713.33 
 
 Connecticut 15,866,641.00 
 
 New York 13,977,775.00 
 
 Rhode Island 10,892,700.33 
 
 New Hampshire 9,079,677.00 
 
 Vermont 3,708,721.67 
 
 New Jersey 2,778,084.00 
 
 Maine . 2,476,483.67 
 
 Ohio 1.400,877.67 
 
 Indiana 558,615.33 
 
 Delaware 548,134.67 
 
 California 538,956.00 
 
 Maryland ..." 451,912.00 
 
 Kentucky 359,905.00 
 
 Illinois 359,084.33 
 
 Michigan 151,848.33 
 
 Oregon 128,620.67 
 
 Iowa 118,305.33 
 
 Missouri 75,344.00 
 
 Wisconsin 105,317.67 
 
 West Virginia 63,753.00 
 
 Kansas 14,947.67 
 
 Minnesota 9,146.00 
 
 Nebraska Territory 45.65 
 
 A great progress is indicated by the returns made to the 
 office in answer to about 1,700 circulars sent out. The total
 
 46 
 
 number of sets in 1860, according to the census, was 3,319 ; 
 931 returns received at the office of the Association on the first 
 of September,* 1865, reported 4,073 sets of cards, consuming 
 2,275,855 pounds weekly of scoured wool, of which 1,636,821 
 is domestic, and 639,034 is foreign ; the weekly average per 
 set being 559 pounds. The census returns of 1860 were com- 
 plete. According to our list 608 mills remain to be heard 
 from. Returns are coming in daily, and it is believed the 
 number of sets will not fall short of five thousand. 
 
 Another indication of progress is the greatly increased con- 
 sumption of wool. The total amount of wool produced in the 
 United States in 1860, according to the census, was 60,264,913 
 pounds, all of which was consumed in our manufactures. The 
 amount imported in that year, according to the report of 
 Messrs. Bond and Livermore, was 32,371,719 pounds,! making 
 the total amount consumed 92,636,632 pounds. The home 
 product of 1864 is estimated, by the Department of Agricul- 
 ture, at not less than 80,000,000 pounds.^: The amount im- 
 ported was 72,371,503 pounds. Total, 152,371,503 pounds, 
 an increase of 59,734,871 pounds, or sixty-one per cent. 
 
 Not the least interesting result, which is at the same time 
 the cause and effect of the increase of our woollen manufac- 
 ture, is one eminently national ; viz., that we have been able to 
 clothe our vast army with our own fabrics, and by only the 
 national expansion of our industry. By our looms and sew- 
 ing-machines we furnished, in one year, not less than 35,174,- 
 608 garments. || Mr. Bond, chairman of our " Committee on 
 Raw Materials," estimates, from official reports received from 
 the Quartermaster-General of the United States of the quan- 
 
 * The Table in the Appendix contains the aggregate results up to Oct. 25th, 1865. 
 t Wool Report to the Boston Board of Trade for 1864, by George William Bond and 
 George Livermore, p. 8. 
 
 J Monthly Report of the Agricultural Department for January, 1865, p. 22. 
 Report of Messrs. Bond and Livermore for 1864, p. 8. 
 || Report of Messrs. Bond and Livermore for 1864, p. 7.
 
 47 
 
 tity of woollen goods purchased for the army in 1862 and 1863, 
 that the quantity of wool consumed in our mills for army use 
 was, in 
 
 1862 51,400,000 Ibs. 
 
 1863 61,300,000 
 
 1864, no returns, say 61,300,000 
 
 To this must be added the consumption for the navy, and 
 for cartridges, and the total cannot vary much from 200,000,- 
 000. 
 
 Compare this with the condition of the country at the com- 
 mencement of the war of 1812, when the Secretary of War 
 was compelled to ask Congress for permission to import 5,000 
 blankets for the supply of the Indians.* 
 
 This is but one of the many illustrations which the war has 
 furnished of the great truth of political economy, that a nation 
 is powerful and independent, just in proportion as it cultivates 
 a variety of industry in its people. 
 
 " The war and its incidents," says Dr. Elder,f " shed a flood 
 of light upon the effect of a well-secured home consumption 
 for agricultural products of every kind, of which the wool- 
 growing interest is an example. In the ten years before the 
 rebellion, the sheep of Pennsylvania had decreased 12 per 
 cent in number. In May, 1864, the Agricultural Bureau 
 reports an increase of 76 per cent in four years. In 
 Illinois, they had fallen off in the last census decade 14 
 per cent. In the first two years of the war, according to the 
 report of the county assessors, they had increased from 769,- 
 135 to 1,206,695, and the editor of the Chicago " Tribune " 
 stimates the number at 3,000,000 at the close of the year 
 1864, an increase of two hundred and ninety per cent in four 
 years. This immense advance is owing simply to a protective 
 
 * Pamphlet entitled Free Trade in Raw Materials considered in it* Kttl-ct upon all 
 Classes of the People. New York, 1865, p. 14. 
 
 t The Western States, their Pursuits and Policy, p. 22.
 
 48 
 
 tariff, aided by the high rate of foreign exchange and absolute 
 possession of the home market." 
 
 I shall not enlarge further upon the American woollen 
 industry. It may appear that I have not done it justice. It 
 would have afforded me satisfaction to give, from original 
 sources, special details of our manufacture ; to enumerate the 
 fabrics in which we excel ; to specify the inventions which we 
 have contributed ; to do honor to the great men whose genius 
 and enterprise have built up the pillars of our industry ; to 
 exhibit its peculiar social and economic relations in this coun- 
 try ; in a word, to contribute facts from our manufacture to 
 serve to illustrate the general progress of the arts. But the 
 experience and observation of many years, instead of a few 
 months, are necessary for such a work. It can be done, 
 indeed, by no one man. Each one of you, gentlemen, must 
 spare time and thought to contribute materials for such a work 
 as shall be a worthy record and monument of your labors. 
 In this way you will subserve the highest object of our Associ- 
 ation. 
 
 But the time has not yet come for the woollen manufacture 
 to vaunt of its achievements. Its career has but commenced. 
 Its aim is nothing less than to clothe the American people with 
 indigenous fabrics. In twenty years preceding 1862, we im- 
 ported foreign woollen manufactures of the value of $429,422,- 
 951, an average of upwards of 19,000,000 a year. To 
 displace the foreign manufacture, and supply a population of 
 35,000,000, to be doubled in thirty more years, consuming 
 more woollen goods than the same number of any people 
 in the world, a field for gigantic enterprise is opened to the 
 American manufacturer. This consideration leads to the 
 second branch of my subject : The means of developing the 
 woollen manufacture. 
 
 The requisite above all others necessary for the development 
 of our manufacture, is a sufficient and diversified supply of the
 
 49 
 
 raw material, wool. For this our main dependence must 
 always be upon our own agriculture. An instinctive senti- 
 ment of patriotism leads every consumer to prefer a home 
 product, if it will suit his purpose equally well with a foreign 
 product. It is for the interest of the consumer to buy at 
 home ; he saves commissions, exchanges, transportation. He 
 can select exactly what he wants, and he can sell his own pro- 
 ducts where he buys. The statistics collected by the Associa- 
 tion show that the vast majority of the manufacturers of the 
 country use only domestic wool. Of 4073 sets, 2171 are em- 
 ployed wholly upon domestic wool. Of 931 mills, 767 use 
 domestic wool ; while only 46 mills in the whole country use 
 foreign wool alone. 
 
 So absolute is the dependence of the manufacturer of each 
 nation upon the wool-growers of his own country, that the 
 characteristic features of the manufactures of different nations 
 have been impressed by the peculiar conditions of their agri- 
 culture. I will cite some examples, which will serve at the 
 same time to show the direction towards which it is desirable 
 our own agriculture should tend. 
 
 The sheep of England at an early period were divided into 
 two distinctly marked classes. The one class, thriving upon 
 the dry uplands, produced a short wool, adapted solely for 
 making felted cloths, called clothing wool. Of this class, the 
 original Southdown was a type. The other class, of greater 
 size, flourishing upon the rich moist plains, produced wool 
 characterized by great length, strength, transparency, and the 
 little degree in which it possessed the felting property. This 
 wool, fitted for making serges and stuff-goods, was called comb- 
 ing wool, from the instrument used to make the fibres straight 
 and parallel preparatory to spinning. The type of this class 
 was the Leicester sheep. In raising sheep of both kinds, the 
 primary object anciently was, the product of wool ; the mutton 
 being merely accessory. 
 
 7
 
 50 
 
 Under the old system of pasturage, it was found that but a 
 given number of sheep could be kept on a certain space of 
 ground ; and, throughout a portion of the year, they were defi- 
 cient in nourishment. Towards the end of the seventeenth 
 century, the culture of turnips was introduced from Holland 
 to England, with the financial and political institutions brought 
 over by William III. Under the new system of agriculture, 
 the artificial or turnip husbandry, a regular supply of food was 
 provided for each season of the year, and double or treble the 
 number of sheep could be kept upon the same land. The agri- 
 culturalists of England then began to perceive that the meat 
 of the sheep was a more important source of profit than the 
 wool, and that the wool must be the accessory. The revolu- 
 tion, which established the superiority of meat over wool, was 
 principally due to Bakewell, of Dishley, to whom England 
 owes hardly less than to Watt and Arkwright. Before his day, 
 the English sheep were not fit for the butcher till about four 
 or five years old. He conceived that if it were possible to 
 bring sheep to their full development before that age, to 
 make them fit for being killed at two years old, for example, 
 the produce of the flocks by this means would be doubled. To 
 accomplish this, he applied to the old Leicester sheep of his 
 neighborhood what is now the well known principle of selec- 
 tion in breeding, but which may be said to have originated in 
 his brilliant experiments. So complete was his success, that 
 the breed obtained by him, called the " New Leicester," is un- 
 rivalled in the world for precocity, produces animals which 
 may be fattened as early as one year old, and, in every case, have 
 reached their full growth before the end of the second year. 
 To this invaluable quality is added a perfection of shape which 
 renders them more fleshy and heavier for their size than any 
 known breed. Bakewell himself was not wanting in remunera- 
 tion for his labors. So great was the appreciation of his new 
 flocks, that he let his rams for one season for the enormous
 
 sura of six thousand guineas. The " New Leicester," in time, 
 came to be the most numerous and widely extended breed 
 in all England. In many districts, they displaced the short- 
 wool breeds ; in others modified them. The extension of this 
 breed gave preponderance to the production of the long wool 
 with which it was clothed. The great value of BakewelPs labors 
 consisted, not only in contributing a new race realizing the 
 maximum of precocity and return, when placed on suitable 
 lands, but in pointing out the means by which other indige- 
 nous races might be improved. The ancient race of the Downs, 
 adapted for the highlands where the " New Leicester " did 
 not thrive, originally producing short clothing-wool, was for- 
 merly of small size, and yielded but little meat, and would 
 seldom fatten until four years old. By a careful selection of 
 breeders, and the good winter regimen which the turnip hus- 
 bandry gives, the English breeders caused the Southdown to 
 become the rival of the " New Leicester " in early development 
 and perfection of shape. They fatten generally when about 
 two years old, and are sold after the second clip. But a change 
 was also effected in the character of the fleece, which the far- 
 mers at first refused to believe. It lost the character of a 
 clothing-wool. It became longer and coarser. As Mr. Youatt 
 says, " That which was once a carding, had become a comb- 
 ing-wool ; and useful and valuable for a different purpose. It 
 had not deteriorated, but it had changed." * The same change, 
 from the same cause, has been effected in the Cheviot wool of 
 Scotland. 
 
 The result of this direction of the agriculture of England, to 
 seek profit rather from the meat than the wool in the culture 
 of their flocks, is truly astonishing when a comparison is made 
 with France, which pursues a different system, making 
 the meat accessory to the wool, as it is with us. Each country 
 
 * Youatt on Sheep, p. 227.
 
 52 
 
 has an equal number of sheep. But England feeds one sheep 
 per acre, while France feeds only one-third of a head. The 
 produce of the English sheep is double that of the French ; and 
 the average return of an English sheep-farm is six times greater 
 than a French one.* 
 
 The effect of this system upon manufactures is no less 
 remarkable. The wool of England, without the knowledge or 
 purpose of her farmers, has become a combing-wool ; and the 
 worsted manufacture, through the unconscious influence of 
 English agriculture, has become developed to such an extent, 
 that the towns of Yorkshire have grown up as marvellously as 
 those of our great West. 
 
 The uses of the wool have changed. It was anciently em- 
 ployed principally for making says and serges, grave stuffs 
 for monks or mourners. It is now principally used for making 
 light fancy fabrics for female apparel. Spencer describes envy 
 as clad in a garment of this wool : 
 
 " All in a kirtle of discolored say, 
 He clothed was y painted full of eies." t 
 
 The female of modern times, arrayed in the bright-colored 
 textures of Bradford, may be likened to the Fidessa of Spencer 
 in her outward aspect: 
 
 " A goodly lady clad in scarlet red, 
 Purfled with gold and pearls." J 
 
 I need not make the application of the lesson contained in these 
 facts to our own country. We imported in 1860 115,000,000 of 
 worsteds, principally from England. We made only $3,000,000. 
 To replace the English worsteds we have absolutely no raw 
 material, and depend wholly upon the Leicester and Cotswold 
 wools of Canada. Why should not the American, as well 
 
 * Rural Economy of England, Scotland, and Ireland, by Leonce De Lavergne, 
 translated from the French. Edinburgh and London, 1855, p. 27. 
 
 t The Faerie Queene, Book i. Canto iv. 
 
 J The Faerie Queene, Book i. Canto ii. 
 
 The wool known in our markets as Canada wool consists wholly of fleeces from 
 the long-wooled Leicester, Cotswold sheep, and crosses of these breeds with the South-
 
 53 
 
 as the English farmer, seek a profit in mutton and wool as 
 well as in wool alone, and thus supply the greatest necessity 
 of American manufacture ? * 
 
 Another example of this dependence of manufactures upon 
 agriculture is found in Prance. The attempts of Colbert to 
 naturalize the merino had so utterly failed, that it was believed 
 impossible to raise or multiply this invaluable animal under 
 the climate of France. A century after Colbert had made his 
 attempts, Trudaine, the Minister of Finances under Louis XV., 
 had direction of the department of commerce. Although at 
 that time the happy effects of the administration of the Min- 
 ister of Louis XIV. were evident, in the progress of French 
 industry, the indigenous wools were all of moderate quality, and 
 the manufacturers obtained all their choice wools from abroad. 
 Spain threatened to organize manufactures of her own, and it 
 was feared that France would be no longer able to obtain her 
 choice wools. To remedy this evil, Trudaine conceived the 
 happy thought of applying to Daubenton, already distinguished 
 
 down, recently introduced from England. Mr. Stone, of Guelph, Canada West, has 
 taken the lead in the introduction of these sheep. The flocks in Canada are small, 
 averaging from 20 to 50 head. It has been estimated that 6,000,000 pounds of long 
 wool will be grown this year. Large numbers of Canadian sheep have been carried 
 to the West during the present season. The consumption in the United States of 
 Canada wool for the present year, is estimated by Mr. Cameron, an intelligent worsted 
 manufacturer, whose data, showing the consumption of each mill, are now before me, at 
 5,500,000 Ibs. The success of the Lowell Manufacturing Company, in fabricating 
 alpaca goods from Canada lustre wools, has demonstrated that the wool does not 
 deteriorate. The Canada wool has been found equal to the best English lustre wool, 
 imported expressly for comparison. The free wool of Canada has been an inestimable 
 boon to our worsted manufacturers. It does not compete with the production of our 
 own farmers, as we grow hardly more than 200,000 Ibs. of long wool, while Canada con- 
 sumes 300,000 Ibs. annually of our clothing wool. It is not possible that our own pro- 
 duction of long wool will keep up with the demand. 
 
 Long-wooled Flemish sheep have been recently imported from Friesland by Mr. 
 Chenery, of Belmont. They are said, by Youatt (p. 176), to be more prolific than any 
 English breed. Their milk is valuable, and is used by the Dutch in the manufacture of 
 a considerable quantity of cheese of a good quality. 
 
 * See an excellent article, on the Condition and Prospects of Sheep Husbandry in 
 the United States, in the Report of the Commissioner of Agriculture for the year 1862, 
 p. 242, in which the raising of long-wooled sheep is forcibly recommended.
 
 54 
 
 for his profound investigations in zoology and comparative 
 anatomy at the Museum of the Jardin des Plantes, where he 
 was associated with the illustrious BufFon. Daubenton, who 
 had studied the question of domestic animals with Buffon, did 
 not hesitate to accept the mission of ameliorating the domestic 
 sheep of his own country. The government furnished him the 
 means of establishing a sheep-fold for experiments at Montbard, 
 his native country; and, in the space of ten years, viz., from 
 1766 to 1776, he had solved the problem which, for a century, 
 had been thought impossible. He produced superfine wool 
 from the coarse native sheep of France. " I allied," he says in 
 his instructions for shepherds, " rams whose wool was the 
 finest with ewes having as much hair as wool, to judge by ex- 
 tremes the effect of the wool of the ram upon that of the ewe. 
 I was surprised to see issue from this cross a ram with super- 
 fine wool. This great amelioration gave me the more hope for 
 the success of my enterprise, as it was produced by a Rousselon 
 ram.* I had at that time had no Spanish rams." " By these 
 experiments, continued with the greatest precautions," he 
 continues, "I brought all the races of my sheepfold to the 
 degree of fineness of Spanish wool without using any Spanish 
 stock." He caused his wools to be made into fabrics at the 
 Gobelin manufactory, and the stuffs were pronounced to have 
 all the fineness of those made with Spanish wools with more 
 nerve and strength. Convinced by this success, Louis XVI. 
 obtained from the King of Spain, in 1786. a flock of merinos, 
 which he placed at Rambouillet, under the direction of Dau- 
 benton. Enlightened by his previous labors upon the domestic 
 sheep, the practical naturalist found no difficulty in accli- 
 mating and ameliorating the Spanish race. The flock at 
 Rambouillet was multiplied. It furnished an example and sup- 
 plied reproducers, which were spread everywhere throughout 
 France. A school of shepherds was organized ; other national 
 
 * The finest of French native breeds. Noveau traite sur laine, p. 67.
 
 55 
 
 sheepfolds were founded, and the merinos were established in 
 France.* Daubenton continued to publish treatises upon their 
 management. Even fifty-three years after his first labors, 
 when 84 years old, he addressed the Institute in relation to 
 experiments upon sheep which he was then carrying on. 
 
 * One of the most interesting results of the acclimatation of the merinos in France is 
 the creation of a new and perfectly fixed race, remarkable for its silky wool, called the 
 Mauchamp race. In 1828, there was accidentally produced at the farm of Mauchamp, 
 cultivated by M. Graux, a ram, badly and even monstrously formed, having a head of 
 unusual size and a tail of great length, but having a wool remarkable for its softness, 
 and above all for its lustre, which resembled that of silk. This was the second animal of 
 the kind which had been born in the flock of merinos at Mauchamp; the first had been 
 killed by the mother. Mr. Graux separated it from the flock, and raised it apart, to pre- 
 vent any accident, and used it for reproduction ; obtaining some animals similar to the 
 sire, and others to the dam. Taking afterwards the animals similar to the sire, and cross- 
 ing them among themselves or with the sire, which served as a type, he succeeded in 
 forming, little by little, a small flock of animals whose wool was perfectly silky. When 
 he had arrived at this result, he occupied himself in modifying the forms, which he easily 
 accomplished ; and finally in modifying the size, originally quite small, but which is now 
 the same as that of ordinary French merinos, rams of three years old weighing as much 
 as 80 kilogrammes, and a flock of six hundred head producing on an average two kilo- 
 grammes of wool washed on the back. As with all innovators, M: Graux met on all 
 sides detractors of his discovery. The farmers, pretended that the silky type could not 
 be preserved when transported from Mauchamp ; and the manufacturers asserted that the 
 wool was so pliant and slippery that nothing could be done with it. They even com- 
 plained of the very qualities which distinguish it. It is probable that the discoverer 
 would have renounced the development of this magnificent race, if he had not been en- 
 couraged by an annual subvention from the government, obtained by M. Yvart, the 
 Inspector-general of the imperial sheepfolds. In 1853, M. Davin, a manufacturer dis- 
 tinguished for his zeal and skill in introducing new material to the textile arts, experi- 
 mented upon the material rejected by others. He succeeded in making magnificent 
 stuff's which excited the admiration of all connoisseurs. They exhibited, in the tender 
 colors especially, reflections of light which had never been before observed, and a softness 
 which had never been found in any material of wool of any degree of fineness. The 
 silky lustre was so marked, that, in a challis made with a silken warp and weft of Mau-. 
 champ wool, although the stuff' contained only one-eighth of silk and seven-eighths of 
 silky wool, it was as brilliant as if made entirely of silk. Merinos, mousselines, satins of 
 China, and shawls, made of this material, equalled, if they did not surpass, analogous pro- 
 ducts made of the finest Cashmere yarns. The commission of savans, who reported upon 
 the qualities of this new race to the Imperial Society of Acclimatation, say: "The silky 
 wool is destined to replace completely in our industry the Cashmere which comes from 
 Thibet. It is fully as brilliant as Cashmere, fully as soft; and, while it costs less as a raw 
 material, it requires less manipulation to be transformed into yarn, since it does not con- 
 tain the hair (jarre), which must be removed from the Cashmere." In 1857, a medal of 
 the first class was decreed to M. Davin for his industrial application of this material; and 
 the society above referred to has proposed a prize of 2,000 francs for a flock of one hun- 
 dred animals of the silky type. Bulletin de la Socie'te' Imperiale Zoologique d' Acclima- 
 tation, t. v. p. 113, also t. vi. p. 502.
 
 56 
 
 Although it was scarcely before the establishment of the em- 
 pire that the advantages of the new race began to be under- 
 stood, one-fourth of the sheep of France consist at present of 
 merinos from this stock. The merino of France has become, 
 through the culture of her agriculturalists, one of the most dis- 
 tinct of the merino races. In size and weight of washed wool 
 it surpasses all other merinos, and their French savans say of 
 them, " We are at present the first in the entire world for the 
 fineness and quality of our wools, and the beauty and good 
 conformation of the merinos which produce them." Within 
 even the present year the Imperial Zoological Society of 
 Acclimatation, at the instance of its President, the illustrious 
 Drouyn de L'huys, the Premier of Napoleon III., has dedi- 
 cated a statue to the great naturalist who endowed France 
 with this magnificent legacy, to prove, in the language of its 
 Vice-president, " that no true glory passes unperceived, that 
 every serious servitor of his country and humanity receives 
 sooner or later his just recompense." 
 
 What has been the effect of this agricultural achievement of 
 France upon the character of her fabrics ? The high culture 
 of the French sheep for the purpose of obtaining great size and 
 weight of fleece, has done for the merino in France what it did 
 for Southdown in England ; it has added length to the fibre, 
 and made it a genuine combing-wool.f Its value for this pur- 
 
 * M. Richard, Vice-president of the Imperial Society of Acclimatation. See Bulle- 
 tin de la Societe Imperiale Zoologique d' Acclimatation, 2 Sevie, t. i. November, 1864, 
 p. 647, tt seq. 
 
 t Although the prevailing character of the French fleeces is as above described, a 
 breed of sheep has been cultivated to a limited extent in France which rival iu fineness 
 of wool the most reputed flocks of Saxony. They are called the sheep of Naz, and 
 have been cultivated by an agricultural association of that name for over sixty years. 
 The original nucleus of the flock was derived from the most ancient of the Royal 
 Cabanas, and the flock has been increased without any admixture of foreign blood. 
 The flock in 1840 had been reduced to about 500 head, but the wool still preserved its 
 reputation for fineness, softness, force, and elasticity. The price at that time was about 
 five francs the kilogramme for wool in the yolk, which was double the price of the 
 wools of Rambouillet. The average weight of the fleeces is a little less than two kilo- 
 grammes, or about 4 Ibs. Gen. Lafayette raised sheep of this race at La Grange ; and
 
 57 
 
 pose is thus pronounced by one of the most eminent of the 
 practical manufacturers of France : 
 
 " There are two facts we ought to proclaim abroad. 
 
 " The first is, that without the introduction of the Spanish 
 race into our flocks, and without all the skill of our agricul- 
 turists, we should still vegetate in dependence upon neighbor- 
 ing nations, and should be reduced to clothe ourselves with 
 their stuffs. It is to the admirable revolution in the raising of 
 ovine animals that we owe the beautiful industry of spinning 
 the merino combing-wools. It is to this that we owe the splen- 
 dor of the industries of weaving combing-wool at Paris, at 
 Rheims, at Roubais, at Amiens, and St. Quentin. 
 
 " The second fact is, that the aspect, the quality, the char- 
 acter of our modern tissues, in a word, all that makes them 
 deserve, for forty or fifty years, the name of new inventions, is 
 due principally to the particular nature of the combing-wool 
 obtained by the Spanish cross. There are few, very few inven- 
 tions, in the contexture of the stuffs, or in their mounting upon 
 the looms, which are still the same as in the 18th century. It is 
 because it has been favored by the wool of merinos that the 19th 
 century has changed the physiognomy of the tissues of preced- 
 ing ages." * 
 
 Before inquiring what profit our manufacturers can derive 
 from these facts, I wish to cite an American example of the 
 influence of agriculture upon our manufactures, and pay hom- 
 age to an American name less widely known but hardly less 
 deserving of honor than those of Bakewell and Daubenton. 
 
 Col. Humphreys, who had been a member of Washington's 
 family at his home on the Potomac, and had been imbued with 
 a taste for agriculture by the immortal farmer of Mt. Vernon, 
 having been afterwards Minister to Spain, made the first im- 
 
 in a letter to Mr. Skinner, in 1828, recommends their introduction into the United 
 States. New England Fanner, vol. vii. p. 92. See Bulletin de la Societe d'Acclima- 
 tation, vol. vii. p. 479. 
 * Bernoville, p. 165.
 
 58 
 
 portant importation of pure merino sheep from the Spanish 
 cabanas. In 1813, Stephen Atwood, of Woodbury, Connecti- 
 cut, bought a ewe of Col. Humphreys. He bred this ewe and 
 her descendants with rams in his neighborhood, which he knew 
 to be of the pure Humphreys's blood, until about 1830, after 
 which he uniformly used rams from his own flock. This flock 
 gaining much public favor, although full of what would be 
 now regarded deficiencies, attracted the attention of Edwin 
 Hammond, a farmer of Middlebury, Vermont, who made con- 
 siderable purchases of Mr. Atwood's sheep in 1844 and 1846. 
 A distinguished member of this Association, whose invaluable 
 contributions to American-sheep husbandry place him by the 
 side of the illustrious Von Thaer in Germany, thus describes 
 the physiological achievements of Mr. Hammond : " By a per- 
 fect understanding and exquisite management of his materials, 
 this great breeder has effected quite as marked an improve- 
 ment in the American merino as Mr. Bakewell effected among 
 the long-wooled sheep of England. He has converted the thin, 
 light-boned, smallish, and imperfectly -covered sheep above 
 described, into large, round, low, strong-boned sheep, models 
 of compactness, and not a few of them models of beauty, for 
 fine-wooled sheep.* I examined the flock nearly a week in 
 February, 1863. They were in very fine condition, though the 
 ewes were fed only with hay. Two of them weighed about 
 140 Ibs. each. One of the two largest ewes had yielded a 
 fleece of 17 Ibs., and the other, 14| Ibs., of unwashed wool. 
 The whole flock, usually about 200 in number, with a due 
 proportion of young and old, including say two per cent of old 
 rams, and no wethers, yields an average of about 10 Ibs. 
 
 * It was stated at a public discussion at the Vermont State Fair, in September, 1865, 
 that Mr. Hammond was offered $ 2,000 for his celebrated ram Gold-drop, but the owner 
 refused to sell him. He alone possessed the characteristics he had been striving for for 
 years. The President of the Society stated that Mr. Hammond was present when the 
 lamb, which became so valuable, was dropped. He turned it over, and examined it with 
 the warmest admiration, and exclaimed, " Welcome ! I have been looking for you fifteen 
 years and more, and now I have got you." Boston Evening Courier, Sept. 16th, 1865.
 
 59 
 
 of unwashed wool per head. The great weight is not made 
 up by the extra amount of yolk" (although it must be ad- 
 mitted that this is not the prevailing opinion of manufac- 
 turers), "but by the extra length and thickness of every 
 part of the fleece. It is of a high medium quality, and very 
 even. In every respect this eminent breeder has directed his 
 whole attention to solid value, and has never sacrificed a par- 
 ticle of it to attain either points of no value or less value." * 
 The genius of the American breeder received its crowning 
 honor at the International Exhibition at Hamburg, in 1863. 
 Sheep bred from Mr. Hammond's stock, exhibited by Mr. 
 Campbell, " among 350 competing sheep from Austria, Prus- 
 sia, Germany, and France, received a first prize for the best 
 ram, a second prize for the second best ram, and a first 
 prize for the best ewes." f The fleeces of the Vermont breeds 
 may be regarded as types of the American merino fleece, and 
 the character of this wool has exerted a marked influence upon 
 American manufactures. It is not a clothing-wool, for the 
 American merino wool exceeds all other merino wool in length. 
 The wool exhibited at Hamburg was from 2f inches to 3-|- 
 inches long; and, according to German authorities on wool, 1% 
 inches is the extreme limit for the length of clothing-wool for 
 the filling.^ Hence we have comparatively no manufactures of 
 broadcloth. American merino wool is fitted for fancy cassi- 
 
 * The Practical Shepherd, by Henry S. Randall, LL.D., p. 29. 
 
 t See extract from the official record of awards, published in the Rural New Yorker, 
 September 9, 1865. The class of merinos in which Mr. Campbell's were shown was 
 " stocks which have been bred with especial reference to quantity of wool." 
 
 J "A length of li inches may be regarded as the extreme limit for card (clothing) 
 wool. It is true a longer wool may be used, but then it is only for the warp of the tis- 
 sues, and the wool required for this purpose is only two-fifths of the quantity employed." 
 Traite" des Be'tes Ovines par Aug de Weckherlin. Intendant de Prince de Hohen Zol- 
 lern, p. 90. 
 
 Since the above statement was made, I have learned that it requires a material 
 qualification, and I am happy to say, that a name identified with the establishment of 
 the cotton manufacture in the United States is to be associated with the revival of the
 
 60 
 
 meres, in which we excel ; for fine shawls, in which we have 
 attained great perfection ; for mousselines de laine, which 
 we have of great excellence, and which we owe to our Ameri- 
 can fleeces. The true value of the fleece of the American 
 merino is for combing purposes, for which it has remarkable 
 analogy with that of France. This country will never know 
 the inestimable treasure which it has in its fleeces, until 
 American manufacturers appropriate them to fabricate the 
 soft tissues of merinos, thibets, and cashmeres, to which 
 France owes " the splendor of the industries of combing-wool at 
 Paris, Rheims, and Roubaix." Although our main dependence 
 for raw material must always be upon our agriculture, it sup- 
 plies but little more than three-fourths of our wants, and it is 
 probable will never supply it wholly. Our farmers will pro- 
 bably never attempt to supply the cheap coarse wools which 
 Egypt and South America furnish, nor will they soon abandon 
 the lusty merinos for the small and delicate Saxons.* For our 
 very coarse, and, for some time to come, for our very fine, and 
 for our long wools, we must depend upon the foreign market. 
 Our manufactures certainly cannot be extended unless we can 
 be on some terms of equality with foreigners who have no 
 restriction in the supply of raw materials ; for all the principal 
 
 broadcloth manufacture in this country. During the present year the "Webster Woollen 
 Manufacturing Company, under the .auspices of Mr. H. Nelson Slater, has established, on 
 a very large scale, the manufacture of broadcloths, which rival the best German fabrics. 
 
 * I refer to the wool growers of the north and west. With the auspicious advent of 
 free labor, an inviting field for tine-wool husbandry is opened on the Appalachian slope* 
 of the Southern States, and the prairies of Texas. I have the authority of Mr. Gilbert, 
 of Ware, whose opera cloths, made of the finest Saxony and Silesiau wools, have re- 
 placed the best French goods in the New-York market, for saying that must admirable 
 line wools have been grown in the " Panhandle," Virginia. Judge Baldwin, the late 
 eminent examiner in the class of "Fibres and Textiles" at the U. S. Patent Office, and 
 formerly a practical flockmaster in Tennessee, assures me that the culture of finc-wooled 
 sheep can be pursued to the utmost advantage in the Southern States. Cotton may not 
 be king even in its own vaunted domain. 
 
 For the best history extant, in our language, of the fine-wool husbandry of Germany, 
 the reader is referred to the article of Mr. Fleischman in the U. S. Patent Office IJeport 
 for 1847.
 
 61 
 
 manufacturing nations of Europe have practically thrown open 
 their markets to the raw material of manufacture.* I will 
 refer to but one instance of the impolicy of even the present 
 comparatively moderate restrictions upon raw material. We 
 have already constructed, in this country, machinery adapted 
 for the manufacture of bunting, webbing, braids, and bindings, 
 sufficient to make all required in the United States. The long 
 combing-wools required for these manufactures cost in England 
 35 cents, and pay a duty of 12 cents and 10 per cent, averaging 
 about 45 per cent. Two pounds of wool are required to make 
 a pound of worsted, and the revenue tax on the manufactured 
 goods, therefore, equals 12 per cent on the raw material. 
 Without any duty on the imported worsted, the foreign manu- 
 facturer would have an advantage of 57 per cent. The duty 
 on bunting, made wholly of worsted yarn, is 50 per cent. The 
 foreign manufacturer has therefore an advantage at present 
 of 7 per cent in the manufacture of bunting. A large por- 
 tion of the worsted yarns now made, enter into the fabrica- 
 tion of those beautiful goods called fancy hosiery goods, 
 zephyrs, nubas, &c., for which the manufacturers of Phila- 
 delphia are so celebrated. The only protection which the 
 
 * Rates of duty on wool imported into the principal manufacturing nations of Europe, 
 according to the Customs Tariff's of all nations, up to the year 1855 : 
 
 Great Britain Free. 
 
 France (Tariff of 1860) 
 
 Belgium 
 
 Zollverein, including Prussia, Saxony, ) 
 
 and 21 other States i ' ' ' " 
 
 Netherlands 
 
 ( 20 copeks per pood or 
 
 Russia about 2 cents per 
 
 ( pound. 
 
 ( 2d. per centner (or 
 
 Austria 123J Ibs. avoirdu- 
 
 ( pois.) 
 
 ( Common 35s. 6d. per 
 
 Spain 100 Ibs. ; SH.XOM, 
 
 ( 23s. 9d. per 100 Ibs.
 
 62 
 
 manufacturer has, is his superior taste and knowledge of the 
 styles which will suit the American fancy. The English manu- 
 facturers are not quick enough to learn our styles ; although 
 it is said they had given large orders for Philadelphia hosiery 
 to imitate our fashions. One mortifying result of this absolute 
 discrimination in favor of the English worsted manufacture is, 
 that we actually make no bunting. To our shame be it spoken, 
 all our flags are grown, spun, woven, and dyed in England ; 
 and on the last 4th of July, the proud American ensigns which 
 floated over every national ship, post, and fort, and every 
 patriotic home, flaunted forth upon the breeze the industrial 
 dependence of America upon England ! * 
 
 I do not propose to discuss the question of the free admis- 
 sion of raw materials, or the relative duty on wool and woollen 
 fabrics. Most of us, as manufacturers, believe that so long as 
 the home product of wool is inadequate to the supply of our 
 machinery, the only protection which can avail the wool-grower 
 must include protection to the manufacturer; and that any 
 policy which deprives the manufacturer of the home market 
 for goods, tends to deprive the grower of the home market for 
 wool, and to oblige him to compete in the general markets of 
 the world with other wool-growers ; and that the only reliable 
 protection of the wool-grower is in the ability of the manufac- 
 turers to convert his clip into goods which will command the 
 home market. We believe that the mutuality of the depend- 
 ence of the two industries has been demonstrated by the 
 experience that the wool-growers have always been prosperous 
 when the prosperity of the manufacturing interest secured them 
 a home market, and that the seasons of depression have been 
 only when the depression of manufacturing has diminished 
 the home demand.f But it is not enough for us to believe, or 
 
 * My principal authority for these statements is Mr. Allen Cameron, of the Abbott 
 Worsted Company, Westford, Mass. 
 
 t See argument of Mr. Rowland G. Hazard in behalf of the Rhode Island woollen 
 manufacturers before the Committee of Ways and Means, May 11, 1864. These views
 
 63 
 
 even prove all this. There can be no reliance upon a perma- 
 nent friendly legislation for both interests unless the wool- 
 growers are satisfied. Our object is not to reach Congress, but 
 to convince the farmers of the West, who will inevitably con- 
 trol the legislation of this country, of the absolute identity of 
 our interests. The most important means of extending our 
 manufacture, therefore, is to establish friendly relations with 
 the wool-growers. How shall this be accomplished ? Let 
 them understand that, while, individually, the manufacturers 
 will follow their commercial instincts in buying at the cheapest 
 market, they utterly repudiate all associations or combina- 
 tions to lower the market price. Let manufacturers be more 
 careful in the selection of their agents for purchasing wool, or 
 let them go themselves into the agricultural districts and be- 
 come acquainted with the farmers and their flocks. If there 
 is any rule of the trade which operates inequitably towards the 
 wool-grower, let it be abolished. The complaint has been 
 made by the wool-growers, that the rule that all wools shall be 
 
 are not confined to manufacturers. I find the following in the New-England Farmer, 
 April, 1828, vol. vi., p. 298: "Mr. Mallary, of Vermont ( a wool growing State), in his 
 speech on the tariff bill, reported by the Committee on Manufactures, opposed the pro- 
 posed additional duty on wool costing eight cents per pound and under. He said such 
 wool was not and would not be produced in this country. The fanners of Vermont 
 would not grow wool worth ten or twelve cents, when they could as well produce that 
 which may be worth forty or fifty cents. This coarse, imported wool is made into negro 
 cloths and inferior baizes and flannels. The manufacture of it is established, and ought 
 not to be driven from the country and given to foreigners. The proposed duty would 
 amount to more than 100 per cent, and would ruin the manufacturer of coarse fabrics at 
 a blow, without benefiting the farmer. If the latter should raise wool worth eight or 
 twelve cents, he could not find a market for it. He was also opposed to the other provis- 
 ions of the bill respecting wool and woollens. The charge on wool was too high, or that 
 on woollens was not high enough ; and this disproportion would inevitably ruin the man- 
 ufacturer and with him the wool grower. If the farmer could not purchase the wool of the 
 latter, it would be in vain to purchase it. The markets of Europe are full of wool, and 
 prices are very low. The English wool-growers are petitioning Parliament for a duty on 
 foreign wool, but their petitions will not be granted. The English woollen manufacturers 
 will receive every encouragement, and will be able to sell their goods at the lowest rate 
 possible so long as there is a prospect that they can break down tin- American manufac- 
 turers. Should they succeed in accomplishing that object, they will then raise their 
 prices, and we must pay them." Hampshire Gazette.
 
 64 
 
 washed, or subjected to a deduction of one-third, to put them 
 upon a par with brook-washed wools, operates unequally and 
 inequitably. I am happy to say that this subject has been 
 entrusted to a committee of this Association, and will, doubt- 
 less, receive the action of this body. Let our manufacturers 
 interest themselves directly in the production of desirable 
 varieties of wool. What could be a more becoming or prac- 
 tical contribution from our manufacturers to agriculture, than 
 the offer of a really munificent prize for the best flock of fifty 
 English long-wooled sheep, born and raised in this country, or 
 the best flock of Angora goats?* A practicable mode of ex- 
 tending amicable relations between the two industries is 
 suggested by what has been done in Germany. In 1823, the 
 illustrious Von Thaer, the great sheep-breeder of Germany, 
 invited all the flock-masters and wool-manufacturers of Ger- 
 many to meet at Leipsic, and visit the exposition of wools 
 which has since become so important. He urged them to 
 enlighten each other mutually in respect to their reciprocal 
 interests, and to receive precise indications of the demands of 
 manufacturers. This congress convened, and was continued 
 from year to year, and contributed essentially to preserve the 
 reputation of German wools and cloths. An important result 
 of this congress was the adoption, in 1848, of a fixed termin- 
 ology for the raising of sheep and knowledge of wools. f It is 
 
 * The Angora goat, wholly unknown to the ancients, and first described by Belon in 
 the sixth century, is diffused around the mountains of Thibet, and beyond the central 
 plains of Asia from Armenia to Chinese Tartary. The district of Angora, where it most 
 abounds, is described as a country with a dry atmosphere, and very hot summers, and 
 very cold winters, the mercury descending to 20 degrees centigrade. The number of 
 head in the district of Angora is estimated at from 400,000 to 600,000, and the product of 
 wool at 2,000,000 pounds. Formerly the wools of Angora were spun and woven in the 
 place, and were exported in the form of yarns and camlets, of which the city of Angora 
 sold, in 1844, 35,000 pieces to Europe. The exportation of the wool called tiftik in 
 Turkey, and vwhnir in England, was prohibited, and the native spinners and weavers 
 were protected against the machinery of Europe. Some 1200 looms were employed. 
 The natives displayed great skill in making gloves and hosiery, and summer robes of 
 great beauty for the Turkish grandees. The town nourished, and the whole population 
 
 t Wecherlin, Traite" des betes ovines, p. 25.
 
 65 
 
 believed that a convention of delegates from the respective 
 associations of wool-growers and manufacturers in this country 
 would have the happiest effect upon the harmony of both in- 
 terests, and might accomplish important practical results, not 
 the least of which would be the adoption of a fixed terminology 
 for the description and knowledge of wools in our own markets 
 and farms. 
 
 The surest means of developing our industry rests with the 
 manufacturer alone. It is for him perpetually to aspire to the 
 utmost excellence in his products. I need not say that the 
 manufacturer who suffers his goods to run down will inevitably 
 bring down with them his credit and his fortune. I need not 
 say that the trade-marks on your goods should be like the 
 tower mark on old silver, the stamp of the true metal, or the 
 marks on Swedish iron, recognized all over the world as infal- 
 
 was employed and happy in the pursuit of their beautiful industry. The Turkish Gov- 
 ernment was tempted, by British influence, to admit, free of duty, the products of European 
 machinery, and to permit the export of the raw tiftik. This fatal step was the death- 
 blow to the town of Angora. Instead of 1200, not more than fifty looms were employed; 
 the retail merchants, weavers, hand-spinners, and dyers, were ruined, and the city, having 
 at its command all the raw material for a most important and characteristic manufacture, 
 offers, in its sad decline, another monument of the desolating influence of that system 
 which would make the raw material of every country tributary to the one great workshop 
 of the world. Nearly all the product of Angora wool is now exported to England, and is 
 spun into yarns which are largely exported to France. They are used for the manufac- 
 ture of Utrecht velvets, lace, braid, fine shawls, &c. Vigorous attempts have recently 
 been made on the continent of Europe, especially in France, to acclimate this species ; but 
 nowhere have they succeeded as in the United States. The first importations of seven 
 head were made about seventeen years ago by Dr. Davis, of South Carolina. About three 
 hundred have been imported since. Their progeny, with crosses, is said by Mr. Diehl 
 to number several thousand, scattered in flocks of from 12 to 300 hundred head, princi- 
 pally in the south-western States. A flock imported this season by Mr. Chenery, of 15t'l- 
 inont, Mass., which I have examined, is in excellent condition. This flock numbered ten 
 when it started, and fourteen upon arrival at Boston. They were driven 800 miles to 
 Constantinople, and were seven months upon the voyage, but arrived in good health. 
 The value of the wool in the market is now about $1.26 per pound (not $6 to $8, as 
 stated in the Agricultural Reports). The agent of the Abbott Worsted Manufactur- 
 ing Co., Westford, Mass., informs me that he has similar machinery for spinning this 
 wool to that used in the celebrated establishment of Titus Salt, of Bradford. See 
 article by Israel S. Diehl, U. 8. Agricultural Report, 1863, p. 216. Southey on Colonial 
 Wools, p. 322, et seq. Bulletin de la Soctfte' d'Acclimatation, t. v. p. 569. 
 
 9
 
 66 
 
 liblc seals of uniform excellence. The credit of your mills and 
 the honor of your houses will be the most certain fortunes for 
 yourselves and the best legacies to your sons. But it is not 
 enough that you should be content to keep up the old standard 
 of your goods. The highest attribute of humanity is the pas- 
 sion for perfection, the aspiration for some unattained ideal. 
 The noblest men stamp these aspirations upon all their earnest 
 works ; they are then no longer workmen, traders ; they be- 
 come artists. Art is not found alone in painting and sculp- 
 ture. It is the domain of Minerva, who gave the distaff, as 
 well as of the Muses. The lover of art sees it in "the Stones of 
 Venice," the iron scroll-work and armor of the middle ages, and 
 in the old tapestries of Versailles, in every work of man's 
 hands which bears the impress of his soul. The sturdy honesty 
 of the English clothiers of former times, and their workmanlike 
 fidelity to the canons of their ancient guild, made the old- 
 fashioned cloth of England as sound and solid as English oak. 
 A higher sentiment, a passion, as it were, for an ideal fineness 
 and nobility of fibre, incited the German flock-masters to create 
 the unparalleled cloth wools which have given Silesia the 
 crown of the " golden fleece." A passion for an ideal perfec- 
 tion of tissues inspires the master weavers and spinners of 
 France in their perpetual strife to conquer new fields for her 
 industrial glory. It impels them to add, each year, to the fine- 
 ness and softness of their threads, and the perfection of their 
 tissues, till their fabrics have become models which the spindles 
 and looms of all other nations are content to simulate, but fail 
 to imitate. All American industry needs to be vivified by such 
 aspirations^ Every earnest worker with such a purpose is a 
 blessing to his country and race. As Mr. Ruskin said, in his 
 art lecture to the manufacturers of Bradford, " If you resolve 
 from the first, that, as far as you can ascertain what is best, you 
 will produce what is best, on an intelligent consideration of 
 the probable tendencies and possible tastes of the people whom
 
 67 
 
 you supply, you may literally become more influential for all 
 kinds of good than many lecturers on art, or many treatise- 
 writers on morality." I will add : By such noble work you 
 rise above the sphere of common labor ; you become more than 
 workmen, more than artists, you become creators, imi- 
 tators, though humble, still worthy, of the great Worker, the 
 infinite Maker. Indulge me a moment longer while I give you, 
 in the eloquent words of a great teacher now passed away, 
 the supreme example which is set for your labors.* " A 
 thoughtful man for the first time goes to some carpet-mill in 
 Lowell. He looks out of the window and sees dirty bales of 
 wool lying confusedly about as they were dropped from the 
 carts that brought them there. Close at hand is the Merrimac 
 River, one end of it pressed against the New-Hampshire moun- 
 tains and the sky far off, while the other crowds upon the mill- 
 dam, and is going through its narrow gate. Under the factory 
 it drives the huge wheel, whose turning keeps the whole town 
 ajar all day. Above is the great bell which rings the river to 
 its work. Before him are pullies and shafts. The floor is 
 thick set with looms. There are rolls of various colored woollen 
 yarns ; bits of card, pierced with holes, hang before the weaver, 
 who now pulls a handle, and the shuttles fly, wedding the woof 
 to the expectant warp, and the handsome fabric is slowly 
 woven up and rolled away. The thoughtful man wonders at 
 the contrivance by which the Merrimac River is made to weave 
 such coarse materials into such beauty of form and finish. 
 What a marvel of machinery it is ! None of the weavers quite 
 understand it, our visitor less. He goes off, wondering what a 
 head it must be which made the mill a tool by which the Mer- 
 rimac transfigures wool and dye-stuffs into handsome carpets, 
 serviceable for chamber, parlor, staircase, or meeting-house." 
 " But, all day long, you and I, ... and all the people in the 
 
 * Lessons from the World of Matter and the World of Man, by Theodore Parker. 
 Boston. 1865. p. 61.
 
 68 
 
 world, are in a carpet-factory far more wonderful. What vast 
 forces therein spin and weave continually ! What is the Merri- 
 mac River, which only reaches from the New-Hampshire moun- 
 tains to the sea, compared to that river of GOD, on whose breast 
 the earth, the sun, the solar system, yea, the astral system, are 
 but bubbles which gleam, many-colored, for a moment, or but 
 dimple that stream, and which swiftly it whirls away ? What 
 is the fabric of a Lowell mill to that carpet which GOD lays on 
 the floor of the earth from the Arctic Circle to the Antarctic, 
 or yet also spreads on the bottom of the monstrous sea? It is 
 trod under foot by all mankind. The elephant walks on it, and 
 the royal tiger. What multitudes of sheep, swine, and horned 
 cattle, lie down there and take their rest ! What tribes of 
 beasts, insects, reptiles, birds, fishes, make a home there, or 
 feed thereon ! Moths do not eat away this floor-cloth of the 
 land and sea. The snow lies on it. The sun lurks there in 
 summer, the rain wets it all the year : yet it never wears out ; 
 it is dyed in fast colors. Now and then the feet of armies in 
 their battles wear a little hole in this green carpet; but next 
 year a handsome piece of botanic rug-work covers up the wear 
 and tear of Sebastopol and Delhi, as of old it repaired the waste 
 of Marathon and Trasimenus. Look ! and you see no weaver, 
 no loom visible; but the web is always there on the ground and 
 under the sea. The same Clothier likewise keeps the live 
 world tidy, and in good trim. How all the fishes are dressed 
 out, thdse glittering in plate-armor, these only arrayed in their 
 vari-colored jerkins, such as no Moorish artist could paint! 
 How well-clad are the insects. With what suits of mail are 
 beetle and bee and ant furnished. The coat of the buffalo 
 never pinches under the arm, never puckers at the shoulder ; it 
 is always the same, yet never old fashioned, or out of date. . . . 
 The pigeon and humming-bird wear their court-dress every 
 day, and yet it never looks dusty nor threadbare. In this 
 grand clothiery of the world, everything is clad in more beauty
 
 69 
 
 than many-colored Joseph or imperial Solomon ever put on, yet 
 nobody sees the wheel, the loom, or the sewing machine of 
 this great Dorcas institution, which carpets the earth and 
 upholsters the heavens and clothes the people of the world with 
 more glory than the Queen of Sheba ever saw in her dream of 
 dress and love."
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 's Affinal Report. 
 
 THE By-laws of the " National Association of "Wool Manufacturers " 
 make it the duty of the Secretary to prepare, under the direction of 
 the government, an annual report of the transactions and condition 
 of the Association. The following is submitted in conformity with 
 this requirement : 
 
 The want of some organization, capable of united and systematic 
 action, having long been felt among those engaged in the woollen 
 manufacture, a circular was addressed, on the tenth day of August, 
 1864, to those most directly interested in the matter. In response to 
 this call, a large number of the leading wool manufacturers of the 
 country, from Ohio, Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Mary- 
 land, Delaware, and from each of the six New-England States, 
 assembled in convention at Springfield, Mass., on the twelfth day of 
 October, 1864. The Convention at that time resolved that it should 
 proceed to the formation of a " National Association of Wool Manu- 
 facturers." To carry this resolution into effect, a committee was 
 appointed to prepare a plan of organization, and report at an ad- 
 journed meeting of the Convention, to be held on the 30th of Novem- 
 ber following. The Convention having met on that day, and having 
 been dissolved, the Association was organized by adopting Articles 
 and By-laws which had been presented by the Committee, and by 
 choosing officers as therein described. Meetings of the government, 
 provided for in the By-laws, were successively held at Boston, 
 Mass., on the twenty-first day of December, 1864 ; at New York, 
 on the fifteenth day of March, 1865 ; at New York, on the seven- 
 teenth day of May, 1865 ; at Newport, R.I., on the twenty-sixth 
 day of July, 1865 ; and at Philadelphia, on the 6th of Septem- 
 ber. These meetings were all numerously attended. At all of them 
 interesting discussions took place upon questions relating to the inter-
 
 71 
 
 ests of the Association. Committees were also appointed, having in 
 charge the more important matters to be acted upon by the govern- 
 ment. By the direction of the government, a statement was prepared 
 by the President of the "Objects and Plan" of the Association. 
 This has been printed and extensively circulated. It was regarded 
 by the government, that the first and most important duty of the 
 Association was to obtain information of the actual condition of 
 the woollen manufacture throughout the United States. With great 
 labor, a list of all persons known or believed to be engaged in the 
 woollen manufacture was prepared. Circulars containing such inter- 
 rogatories as would draw forth the desired information were sent to 
 all persons on this list, about 1,700 in all; 931 returns have been 
 received, representing 4,073 sets of machinery, and returns are com- 
 ing in daily. It is believed that by this means the Association will 
 be in possession of complete and accurate statistics of the woollen 
 machinery in operation in this country, the amount and description of 
 wool consumed, and the quantity and character of goods manufac- 
 tured, information indispensable for wise and just legislation in 
 matters affecting our interests. It is believed that no inquiries at 
 present pursued by the national Government will furnish a basis for 
 such legislation. It is the object of the government to place the 
 Association upon such a basis that it shall have weight in our national 
 councils, and that the interests of all the woollen manufacturers of 
 the country shall be fully represented and cared for. The govern- 
 ment believe that they have accomplished all that could have been 
 expected in the few months of the existence of the Association, in 
 completing its organization and arranging its machinery. They have 
 not deemed it wise to attempt too much, or to make a display of their 
 operations. The value of such an organization exists most in its 
 silent and hardly appreciable influence ; and time and patience are 
 necessary to secure that which is really useful and permanent. The 
 Association consists, at present, of 201 members ; a number which, 
 it is hoped, may be greatly increased when our " Objects and Plans " 
 are more fully known. 
 
 Respectfully submitted, JOHN L. HAYES, 
 
 Secretary.
 
 TABLE, 
 
 Showing the Value of Woollen Goods manufactured in the United States, for the Year 
 ending June 30, 1864. Calculated from Official Report of United-States Commis- 
 sioner of Internal Revenue, 
 
 STATES. 
 
 Manufacturers of 
 WOOL 
 not otherwise pro- 
 vided for. 
 
 Cloths, and all 
 Textile, Knitted or 
 Felted Fabrics of 
 WOOL, 
 before dyed, printed, 
 or prepared in any 
 other manner. 
 
 Manufacturers of 
 WORSTED 
 not otherwise pro- 
 vided for. 
 
 TOTAL. 
 
 MAINE 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 3,238,0$8.67 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 238,385.00 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 Dollars. 
 
 3 476,483.67 
 
 NEW HAMPSHIRE .... 
 VERMONT 
 
 9,044,762.00 
 3,145,933.67 
 
 34,916.00 
 
 562,788.00 
 
 .... 
 
 9,079,677.00 
 3,708,721.67 
 
 MASSACHUSETTS .... 
 RHODE ISLAND 
 
 38,905,399.00 
 2,963,154.33 
 
 800,531.33 
 7,668,531.67 
 
 897,720.67 
 261 014.33 
 
 40,603,651.00 
 10,892 700.33 
 
 CONNECTICUT ..... 
 
 11,873,763.67 
 
 3,913,965.00 
 
 78 912 33 
 
 15 866 641.00 
 
 NEW YORK 
 
 10,850,180.00 
 
 2,214,802.67 
 
 912 792 33 
 
 13,977,775.00 
 
 NEW JERSEY 
 
 2,752 652.00 
 
 25,361.67 
 
 70 33 
 
 2 778 084.00 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA 
 
 13,022,447.33 
 
 3,502,190.00 
 
 75 076.00 
 
 16,599,713.33 
 
 DELAWARE 
 
 548 134.67 
 
 
 
 548 134.67 
 
 
 450,385.33 
 
 1,526.67 
 
 
 451,912.00 
 
 WEST VIRGINIA .... 
 KENTUCKY 
 
 58,486.00 
 117,534.33 
 
 5,267.00 
 242 370.67 
 
 .... 
 
 63,753.00 
 359,905.00 
 
 MISSOURI 
 
 72,980.00 
 
 2 364 00 
 
 
 75 344.00 
 
 OHIO 
 
 1,315,243.00 
 
 85,634.67 
 
 
 1,400,877.67 
 
 
 545,128.33 
 
 11,794.33 
 
 1 692.67 
 
 558,615.33 
 
 ILLINOIS 
 
 341,907.00 
 
 11 384.00 
 
 5 793.33 
 
 359,084.33 
 
 MICHIGAN 
 
 118 094 00 
 
 33 754 33 
 
 
 151,848.33 
 
 
 104,457.67 
 
 860.00 
 
 
 105,317.67 
 
 IOWA 
 
 102 815.67 
 
 15 489 67 
 
 
 118,305.33 
 
 
 8,696.00 
 
 450.00 
 
 
 9,146.00 
 
 KANSAS 
 
 14,947.67 
 
 
 
 14,947.67 
 
 
 538,956.00 
 
 
 
 538,956.00 
 
 OREGON 
 
 128,620.67 
 
 
 
 128,620.67 
 
 NEBRASKA TERRITORY . . 
 
 45.67 
 
 
 
 45.67 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 121,868,250.33
 
 73 
 
 STATEMENT OF AGGREGATE RESULTS, 
 
 OBTAINED UP TO OCTOBER 25, 1865. 
 In Reply to Circulars of Feb. 24, 1865, and May 30, 186-3, addressed to Wool Manufacturers. 
 
 STATES. 
 
 Returns 
 Re- 
 ceived. 
 
 Sets 
 Re- 
 ported. 
 
 Weekly 
 
 of 
 Scoured Wool, 
 in Pounds. 
 
 Weekly 
 Consumpiioii 
 
 ]>,,m,.stic Wool, 
 in Pounds. 
 
 Weekly 
 Consumption 
 
 Foreign Wool, 
 
 in I'umids. 
 
 Per- 
 centage 
 
 Forelpm 
 Wool. 
 
 Avprafre 
 We.-kly 
 per Set. 
 
 Mill, 
 to be 
 heard 
 from. 
 
 AINE 
 
 40 
 
 177 
 
 93 835 
 
 74 120 
 
 19 715 
 
 19J 
 
 630 
 
 11 
 
 EW HAMPSHIRE . ... 
 
 ERMONT 
 
 MASSACHUSETTS .... 
 HODE ISLAND 
 
 69 
 39 
 186 
 61 
 
 361 
 112 
 1,467 
 340 
 
 217,110 
 50,217 
 857,496 
 188 775 
 
 174,841 
 32,652 
 560,396 
 152 967 
 
 42,269 
 17,565 
 297,100 
 35,808 
 
 19j 
 
 35 
 34* 
 19 
 
 601 
 448 
 585 
 555 
 
 28 
 19 
 74 
 15 
 
 ONNFCTICUT 
 
 88 
 
 452 
 
 252 880 
 
 125 486 
 
 127,394 
 
 50 J 
 
 559 
 
 43 
 
 
 154 
 
 576 
 
 236 510 
 
 174 536 
 
 61,974 
 
 261 
 
 411 
 
 124 
 
 EW JERSEY 
 
 11 
 
 64 
 
 33 660 
 
 25 238 
 
 8,422 
 
 25 
 
 526 
 
 7 
 
 ENNSYLVANIA: 
 
 Philadelphia 
 
 24 
 
 68 
 
 88,200 
 
 68,650 
 
 19,550 
 
 22| 
 
 1,297 
 
 98 
 
 Eemainder of the State . 
 ELAWARE 
 
 57 
 
 6 
 
 90 
 16 
 
 39,054 
 14,050 
 
 39,054 
 13,050 
 
 1,000 
 
 n 
 
 434 
 937 
 
 69 
 
 4 
 
 [ARYLAND 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 5,400 
 
 2,700 
 
 2,700 
 
 50 
 
 675 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 44 
 
 83 
 
 32,615 
 
 32,615 
 
 
 
 392 
 
 34 
 
 NDIANA 
 
 47 
 
 103 
 
 51,200 
 
 51,200 
 
 
 
 497 
 
 41 
 
 
 22 
 
 47 
 
 23,355 
 
 23,355 
 
 
 
 497 
 
 13 
 
 tlCHIGAN 
 
 20 
 
 26 
 
 9,660 
 
 9,660 
 
 
 
 372 
 
 12 
 
 WISCONSIN 
 
 13 
 
 25 
 
 10,800 
 
 10,800 
 
 
 
 432 
 
 6 
 
 [iNNESOTA 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 1,200 
 
 1,200 
 
 
 
 600 
 
 2 
 
 0\VA . 
 
 15 
 
 43 
 
 17,658 
 
 17,658 
 
 
 
 411 
 
 6 
 
 IlSSOURI 
 
 10 
 
 21 
 
 16,650 
 
 16,650 
 
 
 
 793 
 
 4 
 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 6,600 
 
 6,600 
 
 
 
 400 
 
 7 
 
 kANSAS 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1,620 
 
 1,620 
 
 
 
 640 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 )REGON 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 4,000 
 
 4,000 
 
 
 
 1,000 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 TOTAL, Oct. 25, 1865 . . 
 
 917 
 
 4,100 
 
 2,252,545 
 
 1,619,038 
 
 633,497 
 
 . 28J 
 
 550 
 
 624 
 
 10
 
 OFFICERS. 
 
 President. 
 E. B. BIGELOW .............. BOSTON, MASS. 
 
 T. S. FAXTON ............... UTICA, N.Y. 
 
 THEODORE POMEROY .......... PITTSFIELD, MASS. 
 
 SAMUEL BANCROFT ............ MEDIA, PA. 
 
 ^Treasurer. 
 
 WALTER HASTINGS ............ BOSTON, MASS. 
 
 Semtarg. 
 
 JOHN L. HAYES .............. BOSTON, MASS. 
 
 IBfrcctors. 
 
 Maine. 
 
 R. W. ROBINSON, Dexter. 
 J. H. BUKLEIGH, South Berwick. 
 THOMAS S. LANG, N. Vassalboro'. 
 
 New Hampshire. 
 D. H. BUFFUM, Great Falls. 
 DANIEL HOLDEN, Concord. 
 
 Vermont. 
 
 S. WOODWARD, Woodstock. 
 SETH B. HUNT; Bennington. 
 
 Massachusetts. 
 JESSE EDDY, Fall River. 
 S. BLACK INGTON, North Adams. 
 JOSHUA STETSON, Boston. 
 
 A. C. RUSSELL, Great Barrington. 
 G. H. GILBERT, Ware. 
 
 C. W. HOLMES, Monson. 
 
 Connecticut. 
 
 HOMER BLANCHARD, Hartford. 
 J. CONVERSE, Stafford Springs. 
 
 B. SEXTON, Warehouse Point. 
 GEORGE KELLOGG, Rockville. 
 GEORGE ROBERTS, Hartford. 
 
 lih ode Island. 
 S. T. OLNET, Providence. 
 ROWSE BABCOCK, Westerly. 
 
 New York. 
 
 A. J. WILLIAMS, Utica. 
 CHARLES STOTT, Hudson. 
 EDWARD A. GREEN, New York. 
 
 New Jersey. 
 
 JONAS LIVERMORE, Blackwoodtown. 
 DAVID OAKES, Bloomfield. 
 
 Pennsylvania. 
 
 S. W. CATTELL, Philadelphia. 
 EMANUEL HEY, ,, 
 
 JOHN COVODE, Lockport Station. 
 CHARLES SPENCER, Germantown. 
 
 Delaware. 
 WILLIAM DEAN, Newark. 
 
 Maryland. 
 CHARLES WETHERED, Baltimore. 
 
 Ohio: 
 
 ALTON POPE, Cleveland. 
 A. P. STONE, Columbus. 
 
 Finance. 
 
 Stantifng Committees. 
 
 J. W. EDMANDS, Boston, Mass. 
 EDWARD HARRIS, Woonsocket, R.I. 
 S. D. W. HARRIS, Rockville, Ct. 
 J. W. STITT, New York, N.Y. 
 BENJAMIN BULLOCK, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 
 Statistics. 
 
 R. G. HAZARD, Peacedale, R.I. 
 JAMES ROY, West Troy, N.Y. 
 ARCHIBALD CAMPBELL, Manayunk,Pa. 
 N. KINGSBURY, Hartford, Ct. 
 J. V. BARKER, Pittsfield, Mass. 
 
 Raw Material. 
 GEORGE W. BOND, Boston, Mass. 
 H. D. TELLKAMPF, New York, N.Y. 
 S. B. STITT, Philadelphia, Pa. 
 T. S. FAXTON, Utica, N.Y. 
 J. J. ROBINSON, Rockville, Ct. 
 
 Machinery. 
 
 RICHARD GARSED, Frankford, Pa. 
 J. K. KILBOURN, Pittsfield, Mass. 
 C. H. ADAMS, Cohoes, N.Y. 
 ESTUS LAMB, Blackstone, Mass. 
 ROBERT MIDDLETON, Utica, N.Y.
 
 LIST OF MEMBERS. 
 
 MAINE. 
 
 GALEN C. MOSES Bath. 
 
 NEWICHAWANOCK Co., J. //. Burleigh, Ag't So. Berwick. 
 
 DEXTER MILLS, R. W. Robinson, Ag't Dexter. 
 
 S. O. BROWN Dover. 
 
 ANSON P. MORRILL Readfield. 
 
 THOMAS S. LANG No. Vassalboro'. 
 
 NEW HAMPSHIRE. 
 
 J. M. BABCOCK & Co., Barnstead. 
 
 B. F. & D. HOLDEN West Concord. 
 
 ALMON HARRIS Fisherville. 
 
 GREAT-FALLS WOOLLEN Co., D. H. Buffum, Ag't . . . Great Falls. 
 D. HENSHAW WARD, Ag't Ashuelot Manufacturing Co. . Keene. 
 
 MOSES SARGENT, Jr Lake Village. 
 
 MILTON MILLS, E. R. Mudge, Sawyer & Co., Ag'ts . . Milton. 
 
 VERMONT. 
 
 SETH B. HUNT Bennington. 
 
 HOLMES, WHITTEMORE, & Co Springfield. 
 
 BURLINGTON WOOLLEN Co., J. Stetson, Treas Winooski. 
 
 SOLOMON WOODWARD Woodstock. 
 
 MASSACHUSETTS. 
 
 S. BLACKINTON No. Adams. 
 
 S. W. BRAYTON & Co 
 
 DEAN & LA MONTE So. 
 
 GEORGE L. DAVIS No. Andover. 
 
 N. STEVENS & SONS 
 
 ASSABET MANUF'G Co., T. Quincy Browne, Treas. . . . Assabet. 
 MILLER'S-RIVER MANUF'G Co., Geo. T. Johnson, Ag't . . Athol. 
 
 C. P. TALBOT & Co Billerica. 
 
 ESTUS LAMB Blackstone. 
 
 R. M. BAILEY Boston. 
 
 ERASTUS B. BIGELOW
 
 76 
 
 GEORGE WILLIAM BOND Boston. 
 
 GARDNER BREWER & Co 
 
 GARDNER COLBY 
 
 J. C. CONVERSE, BLAGDEN, & Co 
 
 REUBEN S. DENNEY 
 
 J. WILEY EDMANDS 
 
 GEORGE L. HARWOOD 
 
 WALTER HASTINGS . . . . ' 
 
 JAMES L. LITTLE 
 
 AMORY MAYNARD 
 
 ADOLPHUS MERRIAM 
 
 CHARLES MERRIAM 
 
 PERRY & WENDELI 
 
 GEORGE W. RYLEY 
 
 M. H. SIMPSON , 
 
 JOHN H. STEPHENSON 
 
 AUSTIN SUMNER, Treas. Merch. Woollen Co., Dedham, Mass. 
 HENRY V. WARD, Treas. Lawrence Manufacturing Co. . 
 
 C. L. HARDING Cambridge. 
 
 FRENCH & WARD Canton. 
 
 DAMON, SMITH, & Co Concord. 
 
 THOMAS BARROWS Dedham. 
 
 DIGHTON WOOLLEN Co., William C. Whitridge, Pres. . Dighton. 
 
 JESSE EDDY, & SON Fall River. 
 
 F. B. RAY Franklin. 
 
 ALLAN CAMERON Graniteville. 
 
 BERKSHIRE WOOLLEN Co., A. C. Russell, Ag't . . . . Gt. Barrington. 
 
 F. W. HINSDALE & BROTHER Hinsdale. 
 
 PLUNKETT WOOLLEN Co., C. J. Kittredge, Pres , 
 
 AUGUST STEUSBERG Holyoke. 
 
 D. D. CROMBIE Lawrence. 
 
 GEORGE A. FULLER , 
 
 PACIFIC MILLS, W. C. Chapin, Ag't 
 
 WASHINGTON MILLS, Joshua Stetson, Treas 
 
 ELIZUR SMITH Lee. 
 
 BALDWIN Co., P. Anderson, Ag't and Treas Lowell. 
 
 ISAAC FARRINGTON 
 
 STAR MILLS, George Brayton, Treas Middleboro'. 
 
 S. U. CHURCH & BROTHER Middlefield. 
 
 CRANE & WATERS Millbury. 
 
 M. & S. LAPHAM 
 
 NELSON WALLING 
 
 HAMPDEN COTTON MANUF'G Co., C. W. Holmes, Ag't . Monson. 
 LOAM SNOW, Pres. Star Mills, Middleboro', Mass. . . . New Bedford. 
 BURROUGH & BARTLETT . No. Oxford.
 
 77 
 
 W. R. PARKS Palmer. 
 
 JOHN V. BARKER & BROTHER Pittsfield. 
 
 PECK & KILBOURN Pittsfield. 
 
 PITTSFIELD WOOLLEN Co 
 
 L. POMEROY'S SONS 
 
 S. N. & C. RUSSELI 
 
 D. & H. STEARNS 
 
 TACONIC MILLS, George Y. Learned, Trc-as 
 
 SALISBURY MILLS, John Gardner, Treas., Boston . . . Salisbury. 
 
 C. ALDEN Springfield. 
 
 JOHN L. KING 
 
 C. E. PARSONS ,, 
 
 J. Z. & C. GOODRICH & Co Stock bridge. 
 
 S. W. SCOTT Uxbridge. 
 
 GEORGE H. GILBERT & Co Ware. 
 
 CHARLES A. STEVENS 
 
 S. H. SIBLEY Warren. 
 
 L. M. CAPRON & SONS Webster. 
 
 RAVINE MANUFACTURING Co So. Wilbraham. 
 
 SCANTIC MANUFACTURING Co., L. E. Sage, Ag't . . . ,, 
 
 ADRIATIC MILL, Granville M. Clark, Treas Worcester. 
 
 H. H. CHAMBERLAIN & Co 
 
 CURTIS & MURDOCH 
 
 RHODE ISLAND. 
 
 H. SAYLES & SON Pascoag. 
 
 R. G. HAZARD Peacedale. 
 
 ATLANTIC DELAINE Co., George W. Chapin, Treas. . . Providence. 
 
 WILLIAM G. BUD LONG 
 
 CHAPIN & DOWNES 
 
 TAFT, WEEDEN, & Co 
 
 WAINSKUCK Co., S. T. Gluey, Treas 
 
 ROWSE BABCOCK Westerly. 
 
 BROWN & CLARK 
 
 EDWARD HARRIS Woonsocket. 
 
 CONNECTICUT. 
 
 THOMAS CROSSLEY Bridgeport. 
 
 BROAD-BROOK Co., B. E. Hooker, Treas Broad Brook. 
 
 A. C. DUNHAM Hartford. 
 
 HARTFORD CARPET Co., George Roberts, Treas 
 
 HOME WOOLLEN Co., H. Blanchard, Treas 
 
 N. KlNGSBURY & CO M
 
 78 
 
 THAMES WOOLLEN Co., R. G. Hooper, Ag't Montville. 
 
 THOMAS LEWIS Naugatuck. 
 
 NEW-BRITAIN KNITTING Co., John B. Talcott, Sec. . . New Britain. 
 
 UNION MANUFACTURING Co Norwalk. 
 
 WILLIAM ELTING, Ag't Elting Woollen Co Norwich. 
 
 YANTIC MILLS, by E. Winslow Williams 
 
 AMERICAN MILL, J. J. Robinson, Ag't Rockville. 
 
 FLORENCE MILLS, George Kellogg, jr., Ag't 
 
 S. D. W. HARRIS , 
 
 HOCKANUM Co., George Maxwell, Ag't 
 
 NEW-ENGLAND Co., Allen Hammond, Ag't 
 
 ROCK MANUFACTURING Co., George Kellogg, Ag't ... 
 
 JOSEPH SELDEN 
 
 E. H. HYDE Stafford. 
 
 MINERAL-SPRINGS MANUF'G Co., J. Converse, Treas. . . Stafford Springs. 
 MILL- RIVER WOOLLEN MANUF'G Co., TJios. S. Hall, Pres. Stamford. 
 
 TERRY MANUF'G Co., by Henry K. Terry Thomaston, 
 
 EAST- WINDSOR WOOLLEN Co., B. Sexlon, Pres Warehouse Pt. 
 
 GLENVILLE MILLS, A. D. Le Fevre Waterbury. 
 
 WATERBURY MILLS, John W. Whittal ,, 
 
 DALEVILLE MILLS, Ed. H. Robinson, Pres Willington. 
 
 SEQUASSEN WOOLLEN Co., William W. Billings, Ag't . Windsor. 
 
 P. C. ALLEN Windsorville. 
 
 LOUNSBURY, BISSELL, & Co Winncpauk. 
 
 NORWALK MILLS, by Charles C. Beits 
 
 DANIEL CURTIS & Co Woodbury. 
 
 NEW YORK. 
 
 STEAM WOOLLEN Co., S. Harris, Ag't Catskill. 
 
 C. H. ADAMS ... ... . . Cohoes. 
 
 ALDEN, FRINK, & WESTON 
 
 JOSEPH H. PARSONS 
 
 A. E. STIMSON, Treas 
 
 LEVI YANNEY Ephratah. 
 
 GLENHAM Co., William M. Dart, Ag't Glenham. 
 
 CHARLES STOTT Hudson. 
 
 SAXONY WOOLLEN Co Little Falls. 
 
 A. VAN SICKLER Madrid. 
 
 CHESTER MOSES & Co Marcellus. 
 
 P. S. HAINES Newburg. 
 
 J. HARRISON 
 
 EDWARD A. GREEN New York. 
 
 ELIAS S. HIGGINS 
 
 SAMUEL LAWRENCE 
 
 LITTLE & DANA
 
 79 
 
 L. J. STIASTNY New York. 
 
 J. W. STITT 
 
 H. STARSBURG M 
 
 H. D. TELLKAMPF 
 
 ALLEN & GIBSON Otto. 
 
 A. L. CLARK & Co Philmont. 
 
 S. W. GREGORY Plattsburg. 
 
 ELIAS TITUS & SONS Poughkeepsie. 
 
 H. WATERBURY Renssalaerville. 
 
 SCHAGHTICOKE WOOLLEN MILLS, Amos Briggs, Pres. . Schaghticoke. 
 
 ISAAC R. BLANVELT Spring Valley. 
 
 P. W. HART Stamford. 
 
 TROY MANUFACTURING Co., by Azro B. Morgan . . . Troy. 
 
 TROY WOOLLEN Co., by James S. Knowlton 
 
 JAMES ROY & Co . West Troy. 
 
 PETER CLOGER, Ag't Utica Steam Woollen Co Utica. 
 
 EMPIRE WOOLLEN Co., A. J. Williams 
 
 T. S. FAXTON 
 
 GLOBE WOOLLEN Co., Robert Middleton, Ag't .... 
 LESTER STONE Westfield. 
 
 NEW JERSEY. 
 
 JONAS LIVERMORE Blockwoodtown. 
 
 DAVID OAKES & SON Bloomfield. 
 
 CAMDEN WOOLLEN Co., S. B. Stitt, Treas., Philadelphia . Camden. 
 
 S. & R. DUNCAN Newark. 
 
 NORFOLK & NEW BRUNSWICK HOSIERY Co. . . . . . New Brunswick. 
 
 PENNSYLVANIA. 
 
 WALDO & SON Arcade. 
 
 JAMES IRVING Chester. 
 
 FREMONT WOOLLEN Co., by B. Garsed Frankford. 
 
 SAMUEL RIDDLE Glen Riddle. 
 
 JOHN COVODE Lockport Stat'n. 
 
 A. CAMPBELL & Co Manayunk. 
 
 EDWARD HOLT 
 
 H. S. HUIDEKOPER Meadville. 
 
 SAMUEL BANCROFT Media. 
 
 EDWARD H. AMIDON Philadelphia. 
 
 BENJAMIN BULLOCK'S SONS 
 
 H. N. BRUNER . 
 
 S. W. CATTELL, Lincoln Mills ,, 
 
 CAMPBELL & POLLOCK, Continental Woollen Mill ... 
 
 WILLIAM DIVINE 
 
 THOMAS DOLAN .,
 
 80 
 
 SAMUEL ECCLES, Jr Philndolphia. 
 
 GEORGE P. EVANS 
 
 EMANUEL HEY 
 
 B. H. JENKS 
 
 CHARLES SPENCER 
 
 DELAWARE. 
 WILLIAM DEAN Newark. 
 
 MARYLAND. 
 
 WETHERED, BROTHERS, & NEPHEWS Baltimore. 
 
 OHIO. 
 
 GLASER & BROTHERS Cincinnati. 
 
 ALTON POPE & SONS Cleveland. 
 
 COLUMBUS WOOLLEN MANUF'G Co., A. P. Stone, Pres. . Columbus. 
 
 INDIANA. 
 SCHAEFFER, RlMROTH, & Co Evansville. 
 
 MICHIGAN. 
 
 WILLIAM WALLACE Battle Creek. 
 
 P. S. LYMAN Corunna. 
 
 H. R. GARDNER Jonesville. 
 
 JOHN NICOL . . St. Clair. 
 
 HONOKAKY MEMBERS. 
 
 Hon. HENRY S. RANDALL Cortland Vill., N.Y. 
 
 Hon. JUSTIN S. MORHILL Vermont. 
 
 Hon. ISAAC NEWTON, Commissioner of Agriculture . Washington, D.C.
 
 
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 Santa Barbara 
 
 THIS BOOK IS DUE ON THE LAST DATE 
 STAMPED BELOW. 
 
 Series 9482