THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA PRESENTED BY PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID J ^*^.' ^-^s.^"" 1 ■.-• ! ^ I, \ 't;- .r"- i > 1) !•; 1' ['. N )l> * N C II I N E S K ( #. !• A ii Y !■•. M P I R E / ' " n , » O y £ x^l i ;\ if>| £) Oy S 10 [£ B Oii) Ji ; (jentiiri/ihfr lo t/u OVEEX. Ch/jj-urp Cross ..iiil.nvJ?' _ J6:2K'■■' ' / .r .Zi) / .( .r o /' /•; .1 3- THE OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK; COMPLETE VADE-MECUM FOR THE OVERLAND TRAVELLER BY CAPTAIN JAMES BARBER, H.C.S. " Gloster. — Knowest thou the way ? Edgar. — Both stile and gate, horseway and footway, Poor Tom shall lead thee, — Take my hand." — Shakspere. LONDON : Wm. n. ALLEN AND Co., 7, LEADENH.'VLL-STREET. 1815, xy -mm/ 1 1 -i»T»'i (J Vi INTRODUCTION, least, as the great overland scheme is in itself com- plete — my humble labours in the mighty cause of steam-communication between England and India. For the past eight years, I have earnestly and ar- dently advocated the accomplishment of this great object; and though treated as a vain and visionary enthusiast, when I have presumed to predict the establishment of a semi-monthly intercourse (which I did in 1836 !) my endeavours never relaxed, nor did my hope in the least degree abate. I may be pardoned, therefore, some measure of exultation and self-approval, when looking back upon the state of the steam question some years ago, and tracing its rise and progress through a thousand difficulties and obstructions, I venture to associate my own zeal and exertions with the triumphant^consumma- tion apparent in the scheme now adopted and to be carried out by the " Peninsular and Oriental Com- pany," and the " East India Company," not only with the Presidencies of India, but also with our Chinese possessions. I laboured long and strenuously; for I could not persuade myself that British enterprise and public spirit would suffer so obvious a means of extending commerce and civilization, and of the approximation of our vast Indian empire to the seat of its supreme rule to be neglected. The great cause has triumphed, — some of my wildest dreams have become sober realities, and while I fi'el grateful for the past, I am hopeful for the future. INTRODUCTION. Vll Those who take a prominent and active part in promoting great schemes of public utility, where doubt and timidity, and envy and selfish interests are to be combated, must expect to meet with re- buffs and misrepresentations. Of these evils I have had my share, but I have also, from time to time, been unexpectedly cheered on the way by receiving voluntary and public testimonials of unspeakable value, graciously transmitted through various chan- nels. I may be excused for publishing the following letter from the present excellent and much esteemed Bishop of Calcutta, for it displays a truly Christian spirit, — it grapples comprehensively with the ques- tion, and corroborates the view taken by the late Lord WilHam Bentinck, who expressed his opinion "that steam-communication with India would be cheaply bought at any price." "bishop's PALACEj CALCUTTA, ''22nd of October, 1838. "Dear Sir, " I should never forgive myself if I conveyed to you the accompanying resolution without, at the same time, assuring you of the sincere gratitude I feel in the bottom of my heart to a gentleman who has laboured so assiduously, diligently and successfully in one of the greatest causes that ever interested humanity. " I can truly say, that the consequences, immediate and remote, of steam-communication between India and Eu- rope defy calculation. Such a wonderful adaptation of science is full of ' the seed of things,' as was said of Lord \nn INTRODUCTION. Bacon's philosophical writings and principles two centuries since. "The invention of printing, and the discovery of the mariners' compass, did not more immediately bear upon the happiness of mankind. The human family is now indeed approximating, and, by inter-communication of knowledge, the times may be expected to draw on, when the illumination of the more prostrate nations will be bor- rowed from the most remote and exalted. "Allow me, sir, to conclude with saying that, not only as a Chairman, but as a man and a Christian, I have sin- cere pleasure in transmitting to you the enclosed resolu- tion, and am, " Your most obedient, "D. CALCUTTA." "To Captain James Barber, "&c., &c., &c." The journey to and from India, by way of Egypt, is even now one of comparative ease and pleasure ; but my constant endeavours shall be directed in aid of further improvement, and, as it is my inten- tion to publish periodically a revised edition of " The Overland Guide Book," I shall feel grateful to those persons who, from time to time, will com- municate with me on the subject, in order that the best and fullest information gained by experience may be made available to the traveller who prefers this route. JAMES BARBER. LIST OF WOOD CUTS, PLANS OF STEAMERS AND MAPS. Gibraltar . . . . . 8 l ■*"■ Rock of ditto from the Neutral Ground . .10 Malta . . . . . 14 r> Maltese Peasant . . . . .25 Alexandria ..... 26 Boulac . • . . . .30 Ascent of the Pyramids .... 32 Desert Carriage . . . . .34 Mussoulah Boat ■ • . . 50 Aden . . . . . . 56 T-' Nile Boat • • . , . S3 MAPS :— Sketch Map from England to Calcutta. Routes between the Mediterranean and Red Sea. PLANS OF STEAMERS :- Great Liverpool, Oriental, Tagus, 7 Braganza, j Iberia, Hindoslan, ? Bentinck, j Precursor. THE OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK. The communication with India by means of steam-vessels, via the Mediterranean and the Red sea, having, at length, resolved itself into a settled system, the time has arrived for placing before the public such facts, details and sugges- tions, connected with what is popularly called " The Over- land Route," as shall facilitate the performance of the voyage, from the hour when the resolution to proceed to India or to Europe is taken, down to that which sees the traveller safely deposited at his destination. The sea route round the Cape of Good Hope must, for a considerable time, have its partisans, in spite of the tedium, extra risk and absence of all objects of interest, which necessarily distinguish such a voyage. False notions of economy, groundless apprehensions, peculiar ideas of comfort and ancient prejudices, cannot be immediately dissipated, especially when so many encouragements to their continuance exist in the beautiful trading-vessels, which offer accommodation to the public, commanded by gentlemen, whose courtesy and sfavoir vivre are only equalled by theijf nautical experience. Still in this — the comparative infancy of the steam route — nine-tenths of those whom fortune may carry to India, will prefer the most expeditious manner of proceeding thither ; and it therefore becomes, in the highest degree, 2 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. important that they should be supplied with the fullest information in furtherance of their purpose. Under this impression^ the following pages have been compiled ; and as we purpose to confine ourselves to useful and practical detail, the reader is left to seek, in the num- berless volumes that have been published, a more elaborate account of those objects on his route which he may desire to mark with special attention. The following di\ision of our subject appears the most convenient for the object of this publication : — Instructions and Hints to Passengers to Ceylon, Madras and Calcutta. To Bombay. KouTE through France. Comparative Expense of Sea and Overland Eoute. From India, via Syra, Malta, Marseilles, or direct to Southampton. Miscellaneous. THE PASSAGE TO CEYLON, MADRAS AND CALCUTTA. The "Peninsular and Oriental Company" having con- tracted with Her Majesty's government to cany a mail monthly to the above places, also secure to passengers accommodation along the whole route, at a specific charge, and, by the same opportunity, drop at Malta or Alex- andria those persons who do not contemplate proceeding any farther. THE PASSAGE TO CEYLON, MADRAS, &C. 3 The steamers remain at Gibraltar six, and at IVIalta, twenty-four hours. The charge for a passage to either of the three ports in India varies according to the accommodation occupied, the nature of which and the various prices may be ascer- tained, on reference to appendix A, which contains plans of steamers employed on this line. Parties ha\dng a preference for one vessel over another, will gather the desired information either from the daily advertisement of the " Peninsular and Oriental Com- pany," or by application at their office, No. 51, St. INIary Axe. As berths in all these steamers vary in comfort as well as price, persons who have determined to proceed to India or the intermediate ports, at a particular date, will secure a greater variety of choice by early application. On these points every information is most readily and courteously given at the office of the " Peninsular and Oriental Com- pany." But if the party going be, from his absence from town or inexperience in business, under the necessity of employing an intermediate agent to secure a passage for him, he would do well to select one thoroughly acquainted not only with the vessels themselves, but with all that appertains to them. As a general rule, we may remark that these steamers are liberally provided with all that passengers can possibly desire. A good table is kept, and the cabins are comfortably and conveniently fitted, and sheets, pillow-cases and towels are supplied. It may, however, be as well to give some precise b2 4 THK OVERLAND CUTDE. information as to tlie possible requirements of a passenger ; for a simple statement of what the steamers do provide scarcely involves a specification of the articles not to be found on board. Let it be stated; then, that there is no sort of occasion for bed or table-linen, a sofa, wash-hand- stand, looking-glass, boot-hooks, jugs, tumblers, blacking and brushes, books, or those " overland bedsteads" which we see continually advertised ; but it will be prudent to be provided with a carpet-rug, a pillow, and a counterpane or resai (wadded coverlet); for it is very probable that, on getting into a warm latitude, the traveller will prefer sleeping on deck, and the steamer's bedding is not allowed to be carried from its place for such pui'poses. The steamers leave Southampton on the 20th of each month. Passengers should be at that place the night pre- vious to embarkation, taking the precaution to bespeak beds. All luggage is required to be on board the day before sailing. The vessels are moored alongside the quay in the dock, and luggage can be put on board from 10 a.m. till 4 P.M. daily, Sundays excepted.* The trunks in which clothes for the voyage may be packed, should be regulated by the calling or capacity of the traveller. If he be a military or medical man, and therefore, hable to much marching about in India, bullock- trunks, specially made at the outfitters, are preferable, as • Parties who do not take the precaution to for^vard their luggage through an Agent and have it put on board in due time, should pro- ceed by the 1 1 o'clock train from Vauxhall to Southampton on the 19th, and from the terminus there, take it at once to the steamer in the dock, for which service the hire of a truck is one shilling. Extra luggage must be put on board three days previous to the vessel's sailing. INSTRUCTIONS TO PASSENGERS. 5 they are permanently useful. If a lady, civilian^ planter, merchant or clergyman, a double chest of drawers or tin boxes will best answer the pui-pose. Passengers are strongly recommended to adopt trunks or portmanteaus of the following dimensions, vis. : length, 2 feet 3 inches, breadth 1 foot 2 inches, depth 1 foot 2 inches, and to have their names and the port of debarkation distinctly painted on each package. No package or baggage should exceed 80 lbs. in weight, other\vise it may be delayed in Egypt. The port- manteaus shoidd be of leather, or material not liable to injury or breakage in handling.* The following are the leading points of the " Peninsular and Oriental Company^s" regulations : — Passengers not proceeding after taking berths will forfeit half the passage-money. On either side of the Isthmus, three hundred weight of personal baggage is allowed to each first-class passenger; but l6s. per cwt. is charged by the "Egyptian Transit Company" for conveyance through Egypt on all baggage exceeding two cwt. In the steamers, children, servants and second-class passengers are allowed one cwt. and a half each, 16s. per cwt. being charged by the " Egyptian Transit Company" on all beyond one cwt. A passenger engaging a whole cabin for the entire voyage, is entitled to take in the steamer four and a half cwt. of luggage, but is subject to the charge in Egypt as above stated. Excess of three cwt. of baggage in the steamer pays freight at the rate of £1 per cwt. in the Alexandria steamers, and £2 per cwt. in the India vessels. Any luggage beyond that allowed free must be put on board and paid for three days previous to the vessel's departure. Carpet- bags and hat-boxes only will be received on the day of sailing. — The * Ladies will find Messrs. Thresher and Glenny's air-tight cases very useful, even in India. THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Company give notice that all luggage (save as aforesaid) that shall be shipped on the day of departure, will be considered as extra, and charged for accordingly. Passengers taking articles of merchandise in their baggage, will incur the risk of seizure by the customs' authorities in Egypt. No boxes or trunks are allowed in the saloon or cabins on the Mediterranean side of Egypt, but in these steamers convenient chests of drawers are fitted in each cabin. The company do not hold themselves responsible for detention, damage, or loss of baggage. As the allowance of baggage is on a liberal scale, and the freight of parcels moderate, it is hoped that passengers vnU not convey parcels or packages belonging to other persons to the prejudice of the Company's interests. A contrary course will involve risk, delay and difficulty at the Egyptian custom-house. Passengers will be expected to comply strictly x^nih the regula- tions estabhshed on board the Company's steamers, for the general comfort. In the first instance, a passenger booking from England to Alexandria only, but who afterwards proceeds from Suez to India in this Company's steamers, will be required to pay such an additional amount only as will make up the sum, supposing he had taken his passage right through from his embarkation in England. Lights to be put out at half-past ten o'clock, after which, no wines, spirits, &c. will be supplied, except in cases of illness, when application is to be made to the purser through the surgeon. No wines, spirits, or beer, are to be supphed elsewhere than in the saloons, except in case of illness. It is to be understood, that a passenger occupying a cabin, of two or more berths, on the departure of the vessel, is not (unless he shall have paid an additional sum for its exclusive occupation) to object to the vacant berth being filled up at the intermediate ports, if required. If there be any negligence, inattention, or impropriety, on the part of any of the servants, or an/ other ground for dissatisfaction, pas- sengers are particularly requested to give notice immediately to the commander, who has full authority to act under such circumstances, and the Company would also wish to receive intimation of the same by letter, addressed to the secretary. INSTRUCTIONS TO PASSENGEHS. 7 Although there is positively no restriction as to the quantity of a passenger's luggage, the excess of that allowed being paid for, still it is obvious that when a hundi'ed persons are travelling with the speed of a mail through Egypt, every extra package becomes an incum- l)rance, if not a positive nuisance, for it renders the timely arrival of those absolutely required very doubtful. It is, therefore, ad^dsable that passengers should confine them- selves strictly to the quantity of luggage necessary for the trip, sending so much as they may wish to have in India by the long sea route, a month or two previous to their departure. The adoption of this course will spare them much annoyance and expense on the journey. One trunk or section of the drawers should contain three weeks' linen, and be arranged for use between Southampton and Alexandria. On the day previous to the steamer's arrival at the latter place, the trunk should be repacked with foul linen ; and, at the same time, such articles as are required during the journey through Egypt should be placed in the carpet-bag. On embarkation at Suez, the other trunk will come into use. We have now fairly started with our passengers from Southampton. The steamer boils and bubbles on her course, and in five days runs to Gibraltar, sighting the Spanish and Portuguese coasts. The passengers soon con- quer the annoyance of sea-sickness; new acquaintance- ships are rapidly formed ; employments and pastimes arranged, and, by the time " the rock" is reached, the real pleasures of the trip begin to be fairly appreciated. 8 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Gibraltar. — From the title so often given to tliis plea- sant little port and ganison — " the Rock of Gibraltar," — the traveller expects to find a barren, inoccupable mass, as inhospitable to its friendly \isitors as it was unapproach- able to our foes ; instead of this, the eye, after entering the bay, is greeted "oitli the sight of a luxuriant vegetation, distributed into gardens, groves and plantations. After the visit of the pratique officer, boats approach the newly- arrived vessel, to take on shore any passenger who may be disposed to land for a few hours. The club-house and Grifiith's Hotel ofi'er temporary accommodations, and to one or the other the traveller mav betake himself. He soon, however, is tempted by the brilliancy of the sky and the warmth of the temperature, to wander abroad, and inspect the new scene that presents itself. The Com- mercial Square, formerly the Grand Parade, offers the first object of attraction. The sales by auction earned on here all day, draw together a motley population, whose costumes and physiognomy alone are a study for the stranger. Greeks, Turks, Jews, Arabs, &c., mingle together in picturesque confusion. The streets of Gibraltar are nar- row, the houses low, irregular, and ill-fashioned; yet are there a few pubHc buildings worthy of a passing notice. The exchange, erected during the government of Sir George Don, the Catholic church of St. jNIary, the coiu't house, the Moorish castle, vidthin which are some remai'k- able excavations, the residence of the governor (which was formerly a convent), the Protestant church, tlic garrison and libraiy, are the principal edifices. Gibraltar being but five miles long, the whole place may 1)0 seen, on horseback or in cai'riagcs, easily obtainable, in It; '?! I''!'^ GinUALTAR. a very brief space. Proceeding southward, the visitor stops for a moment at South Port, where, over the gate, he sees the arms of the Emperor Charles V. richly embla- zoned, supported by those of Philip II. Not far from this are the Alameda, public walks and grounds tastefully laid out. In the centre of the gardens is a statue harpooning a fish, which was formerly the figure-head of a Spanish vessel taken at Trafalgar, and near this, a column bearing a bronze bust of the Duke of WeUington. Leaving the walks, the next object of interest is San Michael's Cave, a great natural curiosity. The whole rock (Calpe) is hollowed out and perforated by caves. The fan- tastic forms assumed by the stalactites give these recesses the appearance of work done by ingenious human hands. Martinis Cave, not far from San Michael's, corresponds in character with, but is smaller in dimensions than the latter. The wild monkies that inhabit the place aff'ord much entertainment by their freaks. Extending the ride to Windmill Hill, we reach the Governor's cottage, built by General Fox as a summer residence. It is pleasantly situated close to the sea. From this the ride may be ex- tended to Europa Point, Rosia, in the vicinity of which is the Naval Hospital, capable of holding 400 patients. From Rosia along the whole range of the western side to Sand Port is a continuation of works, batteries and bastions. As the period of the steamer's detention (six hours) will scarcely enable the visitor to see more than the above, we do not think it necessary to extend our description. A prolonged stay will require a fuller sketch of " the rock of Gibraltar" than falls within our allotted space, and for this 10 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. we would refer the visitor to the " Hand Book," pub- lished bv Cowie, Jollard & Co, We will merelv add, as a guide to those who are iuclined to make piu'chases on shore, that accounts are kept in dollars, reals, &c., but English weights and measures are in use. THE ROCK, FUOM THE NEUTRAL GROUND. After quitting Gibraltar, no land is sighted until we reach the famed island of IMalta, where the outward-bound coming free from the imputations of plague, which cover the homeward passenger, are at liberty at once to go on shore and see the lions of the place. MALTA. 1 1 Malta. — The conquest of Malta iu the year 1800, after a blockade of two years, and its great importance as an mtreport, will render it an object of much interest with Englishmen. Its fortifications, almost impregnable, have been greatly improved since the island came into our pos- session, and notwithstanding the check which vexatious quarantines give to trade generally, its commerce has so much advanced by the resort of vessels from all parts of the world, that it has become a prosperous, a populous and cheerful place. If the period chosen by the traveller for his voyage should admit of his reaching Malta between November and April, he will be enabled to regale on oranges, for which fruit the island is much celebrated. Other fruits, such as strawberries, figs, pomegranites, grapes, apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, melons and prickly pears, are likewise to be had then. The climate of Malta is agreeable enough to tempt the visitor to prolong his stay, and, indeed, in the instance of pulmonary and other complaints, the atmosphere has often been found most serviceable. Its salubrity may be judged of from the fact of the range of the thermometer being remarkably equable; seldom falling below 50° in the month of January, or rising above 88" during the summer months. The most remarkable edifices in Malta are the churches and the Albergas; which latter are now converted into public offices or other establishments of a useful nature. Their exterior denotes the end of their construction and 12 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. the various sections of Knights of St. John, under whose auspices and for whose purposes they were raised. There was an Alberga (a palace or inn) for each lan- guage of the Order, where all the members, whether knights, serving brothers, professed or novices, equally met. The Commanders seldom went there; indeed those who were possessed of a commandery worth two thousand Maltese dollars could not be admitted ; neither could the servants-at-arms, if they had a commandery worth one thousand crowns. The chief of each inn was called the Plllier, and he received either a sum of money, or the equi- valent in grain from the pu1)lic treasury, for the pro-sdsion of the members of his inn. The rest of the expenses were paid by himself, for which he was indemnified by the first vacant dignity in his language. In these edifices the knights of each nation not only met for convi\ial purposes, but assembled together for consul- tation, and the transaction of business. Such as preferred residing in then* respective inns to having private houses of their own were permitted to do so; the same pmilege was enjoyed by the brother chaplains, and the brother pages, in the ser\dce of the Order. These Alljergas are now appropriated, as we have said, to Government Offices; one is occupied by the Malta Union Club, two others as Courts of Law, a fourth as the Civil Arsenal and Government Printing Ofiice. The Auberge (or Alberga) de Castile is occupied by the officers of the English garrison ; the Commissaiy-Gencral tenants the Auberge dc France — and so on. MALTA. 13 The church of St. John holds the first rank among the numerous churches and convents of Malta. The interior is of an oblong form ; the uppermost part, which forms the choir, is ornamented with an admirable piece of sculp- tm-e in white marble, on a raised base, representing the baptism of Christ by St. John, in two figures as large as life. The semicircular roof which covers the nave is adorned with paintings illustrative of the life of the above- mentioned apostle. The pavement is composed of sepul- chral slabs worked in mosaic with various coloured marble; many of them contain jasper, agate, and other precious stones, the cost of which must have been very great. These cover chiefly the graves of the knights, and other servants of the Order. The grand altar which stands at the uppermost part of the nave is very sumptuous, and de- serves notice on account of the various coloured marble and other valuable stones of which it is constructed. The chapels of the diflFerent languages of the Order, which run parallel with the nave, form the two aisles, and are very splendidly decorated. The roofs are constructed in the shape of a dome in the interior, and are very profusely carved with diiferent ornaments in alto-rehevo, as also are the walls. The whole was gilded during the reigns of Kafael and Nicolas Cotoner, as appears from an inscrip- tion over the entrance on the west side of the building. The arches of these chapels correspond on both sides, and leave their interior quite exposed to view as you pass do^Ti the nave. The second arch covers the chapel of the Portuguese Knights. Over the altar is a drawing of St. James; and on the side walls are two other paint- ings representing some traditionary scenes in the life of that apostle. 14 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Besides the cliurcli already mentioned, there arc three others in the citv which belons; to the Government : viz. the Church of the Jesuits in Strada Mercanti, Di Liesse on the Marina, and St. Rocco in Strada St. Ursola. The church of Di Liesse belonged to the Knights of France. The walls of this building are adorned ^nth gifts devoted to the Virgin, the fulfilment of voavs made in time of affliction, in order to obtain her commiseration. The boatmen hold this church in pecuHar veneration. The two parish churches of the city are those of St. Domenico and St. Paolo ; the former is connected with a monastery of Dominican friars ; the latter is a collegiate church, situated in the street of the same name. The other monkish orders are those of the Augustiiiians, Carmehtes, Franciscans, and the Minori Osservanti, or Reformed Fran- ciscans ; all of which have churches connected with their respective convents. Besides these, there are two large nunneries, one of Ursoline and the other of Sta. Catarina nuns ; but the rage for this species of seclusion has very much subsided in Valetta. The former establishment is nearly empty, and the latter is recei\-ing but very few addi- tions. Two other churches in the city, one dedicated to Sta. Lucia and the other called Delle Anime (of the Souls in Purgatory), belong to the public. The Greek Catholics have also a small chapel, dedicated to Sta. Mai'ia, in Strada Yescovo. Next to the churches are the Military Hospital, the Monte di Pieta, the Government University, the pubhc and garrison libraries (the building containing these being one of the finest specimens of architecture in the whole MALTA. 1") town), the Castellaria, the theatre and the Banco dei Guirati. There are several antiquities in the pul)lic library, together with periodicals and newspapers. The Indian files received at this library will enable the out- ward-bound passenger to obtain later information of the state of aftau's abroad, than he might have had when leaving England. The Traveller who sojoiu-ns a few hours only in Malta, after walking in the streets of Valetta, or looking through the imposing defences which surround it on every side, over the apparently arid or sun-burnt undulations of the island, frequently abandons all fiu'ther interest in the spot — singular by nature and art — and reposes quietly on the information of some wi'iter possessing little more actual knowledge of the island, but who may have fm-nished his readers with some highly coloivred descriptions of its early history, or dilated on the chivalrous bearing of its late masters, the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Without wading through these literary labours to discover " a grain of millet in a bushel of cliafF," we merely desire to intro- duce to the sojourner an agreeable mode of spending a few leisu7*e hours in \dsiting other portions of the island. By reference to a map, he will find little difficulty in wend- ing his way to any part of it ; he may pass from one ex- tremity to the other without a chance of molestation or interruption, other than the occasional application for alms; for Malta has professional and other beggars in abundance, the result of an overwhelming population in proportion to the size and resources of the island, and the thoughtlessness of marriages, contracted frequently without a prospect of supporting a family. 16 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Passing out at Porte Reale — the gateway at the top of the principal street of Valetta — and crossing the draw- bridge, the stupendous defences of the city become ap- parent, — deep ditches, — every approach enfiladed, or covered by bastions surmounted with bristling cannon. From this portion of the works the road opens on the front of the public garden ;* a narrow promenade of considerable ex- tent, confined between stone walls, on the esplanade be- tw^een Valetta and the extensive suburb of Floriana, around which are thrown the outer defences of the city, extended like the former, from the great harbour on the east to the quarantine harbour on the west. Holding on the main road, to the left of the garden gate, we pass through Floriana, the gate of St. Anna (the inner gate of this line of defence), and by Porte des Bombes, reach the glacis of the works, and here commences the country of the island of Malta. Three main roads conduct to the diflFerent ^dllages or casals, some twenty-three in number, besides the hamlets of Pieta, Sliema, San Guiliana, and Casal Paola. The road to the right (leading to the western end of the island), keeping the foot of the glacis, opens on the Pieta, one of the most imposing spots in Malta, with a pretty extensive row of houses, generally good, extending for about a mile on the bank of the quarantine harbour. At about a mile * During the governorship of Sir Alex. Ball, public gardens for the accommodation or pleasure of the inhabitants of the various " casals " were formed, but fell into disuse, and remain a trifling memorial of a desire to inculcate good and friendly feelings in all classes, and has been responded to by these places being totally neglected for pubhc use. MALTA. 17 farther on, is the populous and hirge casal of Bircharcara, containing some five or six thousand inhabitants. From the immediate extremity of the Pieta (witliout proceeding on to Bircharcara), a road to the right, over a small stream, leads to Sliema and San Guiliana, the resort of those who pursue sea-bathing and seek a summer residence in the countiy, and containing many good houses. Passing through the last mentioned hamlet, a road (inchning to the left) leads down to Casal Bircharcara, and a carriage may go over the whole ground safely. From the eastern or extreme end from the church of Bircharcara, there are two roads, that to the west, of some two miles extent, to Nasciar, and hence to the right to Casal Gargur, but a casal of no particular interest and road indifferent : after passing by the front of the church, or rather round the greater portion of it, a road to the left conducts to San Paul's bay, where St. Paul is said to have been ship- wrecked. The view from the high ground, after passing Nasciar, and overlooking a line of defence against the approach of an enemy, on this otherwise apparently natural barrier, is perhaps one of the best and most striking in the island, embracing the western extremity even to the island of Gozo, with St. Paul's bay and its tower quietly reposing in the valley. The distance to St. Paul's ba}' from Valetta is about eight miles, and the road good even for carriages.* About four miles farther on from St. Paul's * A calesse, the common carriage of Malta, a sort of brodignao^ imitation of a Dutch toy, can travel anywhere, but those who wish to see the country must adopt some other conveyance : Fortunately, under the government of Lieut.-General Sir F. Bouverie, such attention was paid the roads in the island, — a source of advantage to the poj)u- lation, in every point of view, and the public in general,— that where c 18 THE OVEKLAND GUIDE. bay, and presenting more hill and dale than may be fonnd in the general featm-es of the island, yon arrive at Melleha, where the devotees, of both sexes, resort. There is nothing particularly interesting in this spot, encircled by deep ravines and sterile rock; but with some gardens in its Adcinity, stands a small chm-ch (pretty hberally stored with votive offerings), Avith a coui't-yard, sun-ounded by small cells or chambers, to which the devout repair, and occupy, as choice, occasion or their voav may dictate. Beyond this point, some fom' miles leads to Mafra, the usual ferry to Gozo, but the only carriage that could undertake this portion of the road must be a calesse — deep sand from the bay of IMelleha, and a road intersected by rock being the means of approach. Retm-ning back to Nasciar, and coming in front of the church, a street leads on to the right to the casal of Musta, having nothing re- markable in it but a colossal church (encircHng the old village church), which has been some years in the course of building, and in respect to the progress had in its construction, may never be finished.* Passing through this casal (but avoiding the turning to the right over a well-constructed bridge, crossing one of the numerous ravines in the island, for that would only lead to an unin- teresting part of the island, that in olden times was de- some twenty years ago or less, only two or three carriages on four wheels, the i)r()i)erty of private individvals, could be found, they are now in pretty general use, and may be had on hire. * Casal Musta was singularly enough selected, by the commis- sioners of enquiry sent out to Malta in 1837, in reporting on the liberty of the j)ress, and the adoption of a newspaper ;— that it contained upwards of 5,000 inhabitants of whom not more than 50 could read ! MALTA. 19 signaled on the maps, " desert/' and is n(nv almost without population), along a narrow road or lane, of trifling extent, across a rivulet, and on a road leading directly to the western point of the Binzamma, the most elevated and conspicuous portion of the island, the road is again covered bv a line of defence : bevond this, it winds round the Bin- zamma, and taking the turn to the left, one of the natural curiosities of the island, as it is pointed out, will be found in a nest of caves called "Ancient Tombs,'' now inhabited by some poor families employed in agriculture in the vicinity.* An indifferent road from this point leads to * This sketch is intended simply as a guide to the superficial observer, on a few hours' detention in the island, and in no way with a view to geological disquisition. However, without any speculative theories, regarding the origin and present state of ^Slalta — whether it arose by some convulsive throw from the ocean which surrounds it, or that the Mediterranean sea, from remote causes, has lost its former elevation, being now found considerably below the level of the Red sea, it may be mentioned, without dread of refutation, that these caverns like numerous others in the island, shew the water line at the period of their formation, as those under the black rock, and the southern face especially. A recent writer on the statistics, &c., of the Island of Malta and its dependencies, who visited Valetta, and knew little of Malta, in- forms his readers, that Malta is furrowed with (what he designates) valleys from S.W, to N.E.,— following out the assertions of another and former resident in Malta, — that the course of the various ravines was from west to east, as if to render subservient to geological theories, the mode or order in which Malta must have been formed, yet the slightest observation (which neither had exercised) proves these ravines to embrace, each of the cardiniil and perhaps not less the subsidiary points of the compass. — In like manner, this writer on the statistics states very boldly that the Island of Gozo has villages but no town ; Rubatto has its cathedral, numerous churches, religious establish- ments, with its imposing citadel for defence, occupying considerable extent of ground, and with a po])ulation e.vceeding 7,000 souls, and K-- f - a/^-^f 1 \ e ^ ALEXANDRIA. 27 Alexandria, and superintends the whole journey thence to Suez. He writes thus : — "The carpet-bag, containing the traveller's necessaries for three days in Egypt, he should keep charge of, and take to the hotel on arrival in the omnibus, or, if he ride, make the donkey-boy carry it ■with him, and the same on leaving the hotel for the boat. The other luggage he must leave, after seeing it on the steamer's deck, to be landed and transported in the luggage-lighter alongside, in charge of the transit-clerk, to whom he should hand a list of the same. These he will, perhaps, hear or see nothing of until he reaches Cairo, where they are exposed, before dispatch to Suez, for recognition, in the British Hotel yard. It is understood that the passenger sees to his carpet-bag, on changing boats at Atfeh and on arrival at Cairo, where it is given up and sent on camels, with the other luggage, after he has taken out the necessary articles* for use in crossing the desert, which are expected not to exceed five pounds weight to each passenger in the carriage. " Landing at Alexandria, the passenger will find three good hotels, situated in the grand square, about two miles from Mahoram Bey's, that part of the Mahmoudie canal where the passengers embark on board commodious boats, to be towed up to Atfeh (a distance of forty-eight miles), by powerful steam-tugs. The names of the hotels are " Ho- tel de I'Europe," " d'Oricnt" and " de Suisse." The rates of charges at all are piastres forty, or 8*. per diem, for board * We recommend ladies to provide themselves with a basket having a cross handle and two flaps, as the most convenient to hold their desert requirements. 26 I int( sig gn let "I coi till SOI ALEXANDRIA. 27 Alexandria, and superintends the whole journey thence to Suez. He writes thus : — "The carpet-bag, containing the traveller's necessaries for three days in Egypt, he should keep charge of, and take to the hotel on arrival in the omnibus, or, if he ride, make the donkey-boy carry it with him, and the same on leaving the hotel for the boat. The other luggage he must leave, after seeing it on the steamer's deck, to be landed and transported in the luggage-lighter alongside, in charge of the transit-clerk, to whom he should hand a list of the same. These he will, perhaps, hear or see nothing of until he reaches Cairo, where they are exposed, before dispatch to Suez, for recognition, in the British Hotel yard. It is understood that the passenger sees to his carpet-bag, on changing boats at Atfeh and on arrival at Cairo, where it is given up and sent on camels, with the other luggage, after he has taken out the necessary articles* for use in crossing the desert, which are expected not to exceed five pounds weight to each passenger in the carriage. " Landing at Alexandria, the passenger will find three good hotels, situated in the grand square, about two miles from Mahoram Bey's, that part of the Mahmoudie canal where the passengers embark on board commodious boats, to be towed up to Atfeh (a distance of forty-eight miles), by powerful steam-tugs. The names of the hotels are " Ho- tel de I'Europe," " d'Oricnt" and " de Suisse." The rates of charges at all are piastres forty, or 85. per diem, for board * We recommend ladies to provide themselves with a I)asket having a cross handle and two flaps, as the most convenient to bold their desert requirements. 28 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. and lodging, exclusive of wines, beer and spirits. Those who prefer living a la Francaise, will give a preference to the Hotel de I'Orient. At the other hotels the style of entertainment is more English. "The extra charge at 16s. the 112 lbs. for over- weight luggage (two cwt.) being allowed to first and one cwt. to second-class passengers — is collected at the transit-office at Cairo on exchanging tickets, and takes place there in order to check the passengers proceeding beyond or re- maining at this station. "At Suez the luggage is embarked in the boat which takes the passenger off; and here he should see it again." As the transition from heat to cold in crossing the desert is great, the range of the temperature varying from 94° in the shade at noonday to 73° at night, in the summer months, it is indispensable that travellers should be pro- vided with warm clothing, and too great precaution cannot be taken to avoid exposure to the night air. Taking this matter into consideration, we subjoin a thermometrical register recently kept in Egypt, which may be of service alike to the passing traveller and those who purpose sojourning for a while in that country. As the passage through Egypt en route to India differs but little Avhether the traveller be bound to Calcutta or Bombay, we add to this division of our subject, a short account of the only portion of the journey which can truly 1)c called " overland." ALEXANDRIA. 29 M mntuiuicu auiajixji CO -J o 'M er> — ' t^ t^ •« ">• <» ':2 2 [unmixeai auiaj^x^ •uouBiiBA ^miooui aoiajiY^ •uoiiRUBA XjiKp iiiuajixg cC'OiO'NcOininoc»oo- 1^ «^ «^ t^ ^ '^ •uinuimiui UBaj\i "mmiiixBui iiB3i\! oiooo^inpoippipp OOOfOO(MXit^y5CCJ:^C^ O tO o to O t^ >^ t^ t^ t^ ^ i-O o o o o o o ic p p lO p lO CO •>! O ih CO — ^ -o CO o ic o O ;D 1^ l^ 'X 00 TO 00 00 00 t^ o •UOHBIJBA -SlIBl' UBajy •ajrurjadoiai nBai\i lOiTJiOOI^l^OCOOl^t^^OO I- SI , ill--,. •r >. o C (M CD O o -5 ~ c ^ — ^ H T3 O a. is- C 4» c a, = a 2 ^ »- s I- 3 0. -^ •a >. ^ 3 3 « 'c 73 an ? "C S § s a. z:: -— cc — .H >.* -= a ^ S c C S.S o S 2 rt — -^ «- J3 .2 ^ •c - s .. ^ a < c N C SlS^S C K, rt ° c S- (fl i" a^ c & = 5. > C c 1- ^ « — 30 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Stay at Alexandria. — A delay of about three to foui- liours occurs at Alexandria in examining the luggage at the custom-house, and loading the boats with it. During this time tlie traveller may, if so disposed, pay a visit to Cleopatra's Needle, Pompey's Pillar, and the Pasha's palace and arsenal, all of which may easily be reached on donkies or in carriages in less than two hours, and at a very trifling cost. The boats being ready, the whole party again assemble, and embarking at the Mahmoudie canal, reach Atfeh in about ten hours, where the passengers are transhipped to the Nile steamers, and perform the trip to Cairo, 120 miles, in 16 or 20 hours, according to the depth of water in the Nile. The boat stops at Boulac, two miles HOl'l.AC distant from Cairo, to Mdiich place some walk, wliilst others ride ; carriages, horses and donkies being prepared, and in waiting. There .arc several hotels in Cairo, the ALEXANDRIA. 31 "Britisli," ''Oriental," and "English/' the character and accommodation of each of which will be most accurately learnt on reference to Mr. Davidson, to Mhora we have previously alluded. There are also various stores to supply the wants of visitors, and we hear that Messrs. Lcvick and Co.'s honest dealing and liberal treatment may be depended upon. The luggage is conveyed to Suez on dromedaries, and as these animals travel slowly, those who do not desire to proceed to Suez by the first division of carriages across the desert, will have sufficient time to visit the lions of Cairo, which consist of the citadel, the palace, the mint, the petrified forest, the Rhoda garden (chiefly botanical), the Pyramids of Gizeh, and the Pasha^s palace and gardens at Shubra; or they may indulge in a bath, a luxury thus described in an article in the Asiatic Journal by Mr. Stocqueler, whose Hand-Book of India everybody should possess and read. " A bath at Cairo, after a voyage, is an agremen which few will deny themselves. It is neither as elaborate nor as effective an affair as a Persian bath, but, like INIercutio's wound, ' it will do.' The soft coir, or fibrous matter, w'hich is used instead of flannel or the hair-glove, is not by any means as efficacious as the latter in removing the sodden matter, or papier niacht, which covers the human cuticle. Then there is neither shampooing, nor joint- cracking, nor raustachio-dyeing ; nevertheless, it is plea- sant to get into hot water after a month's exclusion from the indulgence, even though some of the accessories to the hummaum be wanting." 32 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Of the manner in which the ascent of tlie Pyramids is made, the following sketch furnishes an accui'atc descrip- tion : — THE ASCENT OF THE PYRAMlnS. A recent writer, descrihing this laborious operation, speaks of it thus : — " It is adA-isable, if bent on mounting to the summit, to disencumber yourself of all but your shirt and a pair of loose trousers, for the journey upwards must be taken rapidly, and cannot easily be accomplished with warm and tight clothing. A couple of Arabs leap on to the stones immediately above you, and offer you each a hand, while a third follows to give you an impetus from behind, and catch you in case of a slip. Up you go, pant- ing and toiling, step after step (each three feet in height) and stopping occasionally to take breatli, and receive the CAIRO TO SUEZ. 33 cheeriii"- congratulations of your rude guides — (/ood, (jood, Inglese, berry good ! and then, with an impatient grin and extended hand, ' Baksheesh !' " Wc now come to the Overland part of the journey; viz., from CAIRO TO SUEZ. The distance (ordinarily accomplished in about twenty hours, including stoppages) from Cairo to Suez is eighty- four miles, and along the route through the desert there are seven station-houses. These station-houses are num- bered from 1 to 7, and contain the follomng accommo- dation : — No. 1. Nine miles from Cairo — stabling and a rcsting- room. No. 2. Twenty miles from Cairo, contains two public rooms (one for ladies, and the other for gentlemen), two private rooms, and a servants' room. No. 3. Thirty miles from Cairo, stabling for relays of horses, with one resting-room. No. 4. Forty-one miles from Cairo, the centre station, contains a large saloon, a ladies' room, servants' room, kitchen, a number of commodious bed-chambers, large water-tank, stabling, &c. Here, also, will be found, libc- D 34 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. rally provided, those " creature comforts/' which so essen- tially cheer and sustain the traveller on his way. Ladies, however, would do well to take in their basket, on leaving the steamer, a bottle of good water. No. 5. Thirty miles from Suez, stabling and a resting- room. No. 6. Twenty miles from Suez, two public rooms, pri- vate rooms, and servants' rooms. The same as No. 2. No. 7. Nine miles from Suez, stabling and resting-room. The whole distance is traversed without inconvenience, in carriages, on horseback, on chairs, or on donkies, the latter a very superior animal to those in this country. The Egyptian - ^■^■^.'^ams»:::S'~--^j=:=^r-. DESERT CARKIAGE. CAIRO TO SUEZ. 35 ass is easy in Iiis pace, capable of great fatigue, and is said will perform the whole distance with but little provender. At Suez there are two hotels, but the accommodation is very inferior. As, however, passengers usually embark for India immediately after their arrival, this is not of very great importance. Nevertheless, the establishment of a commodious hotel and a transit depot, is considered of sufficient moment to be included in the contemplated improvements. Travellers now embark on board the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamer, and as soon as the luggage has been shipped, and every other arrangement made, the anchor is weighed, and the steamer starts for Aden. Be- yond certain historical associations, the Red Sea presents little that can interest the traveller in his brief and ex- peditious trip. The shores are dreary and barren, and are only agreeable to the eye of the landsman, because they present a somewhat less monotonous scene than the expanse of "blue above and blue below,^' which dis- tinguishes the ocean in parts remote from land. Arrived at Aden, the steamer takes in a supply of coal, and then starts for Ceylon, which island she reaches in ten days, and where she remains but for a few hours. Four more days under steam carry us to Madras, where, after another supply of fuel, we proceed to Calcutta, occu- ppng four days in the trip, and there terminates our interesting journey. We have given a brief description of the three first named places in the section appropriated to the details of the homeward trip, and therefore consider it unnecessary to offer any remarks here. d2 80 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. TO BOMBAY. The responsibility of tliis journey is divided, being firstly in the bands of tlie Peninsular and Oriental Com- pany; secondly, of the Egyptian Oriental Transit Company ; and lastly, of the East India Company. Forethought and precaution are therefore recommended in making the arrangements necessary to secure the passage to Bombay throughout, with as little inconvenience and as much comfort as can be experienced under the ciiTumstauces above stated. Passengers intending to adopt this advice, and ha\-ing determined on the date of their departm-e, will do well to make immediate application to James Barber and Co., whose cii'cidar is to be found at the end of this volume. The Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers, " Tagus," 900 tons and 300 horse power, and "Braganza,^' 1000 tons and 300 horse power, leave Soutliampton on the 3rd of eveiy month, and reach Malta, in ordinary course, on the 13th. Here the passengers for Egypt are transhipped into the "Iberia" of 560 tons and 180 horse power, which also receives the mail, via Marseilles, and proceeds at once to Alexandria.* On their arrival at Alexandria, the same * Fare from Southampton to Malta £34 10 ; Malta to Alexandria £12. We are happy to announce that the " Peninsular and Oriental Company" have contracted to build a new boat for this service, of 300 horse-power, and which the builders guarantee shall be one of the fastest sea-goinn; steamers afloat. TO BOMBAY. 37 means of travelling arc provided for passengers, as de- scribed in a previous part of this work ; but the passenger, in this case, ha\dng only hitherto paid for his sea-journey to Alexandria, has now to make his arrangement with the Egyptian Transit Company, in order that he may reach Suez in time to embark in the East India Company's steamer at that port, Avhich conveys the mail to Bombay. The Transit Company have established the following rates : — Between Alexandi^ia and Suez £15 Children under ten yeai's of age 10 Female servants 10 Male servants 8 Two cwt. of baggage is allowed at the £15 rate, and one cwt, for all below it, and 16s. per cwt. is charged for any excess on that weight. Provisions are liberally supplied on the journey; but hotel expenses at Alexandria, Cairo and Suez, as well as wines, beer and spirits, are not included in the sum charged by the Transit Company. The foUomng may be considered a fair estimate of the cost of the trip : — Transit £15 0.*?. One cwt. of extra luggage 16 One day's board at Alexandria 8 Wine and beer 7 Carried forward . . . . £16 lL«f. 38 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Brought forward £16 11*. Ditto on journey to Cairo 7 One day at Cairo 8 Wine and beer 7 Ditto in the desert 7 Half a day at Suez 5 One bottle of beer *Z Boat-hire on landing, and, probably, donkey- hire for sight-seeing 10 £18 17*. This amount will vary, of course, according to the mode of living and views of the passenger, but 15*. per day may be taken as a fair average for living, and 5*. additional, well managed, will pay the expense of seeing the sights of interest in or about Cairo, if a prolonged stay be contem- plated or practicable. Arrived at Suez, the passenger will receive great civihty and attention from Mr. Lcvick, at the British Consulate, who is also agent to the East India Compan}^, and through whom the berth or cabin in the steamer for Bombay has to be secured, according to the regulations in the following pages. RULES FOR BOMBAY PASSENGERS. 39 East India Compamfs rules for the engagement of passages and accommodation of passengers in the Govei'nment steam- packets between Bombay and Suez. Application for passage is to be made at the office of the master- attendant in Bombay, and at other ports to the Commander, Passengers are to be divided into two classes, viz : — First class, who sit at the commander's table and are entitled to all the privileges of the quarter deck. Second-class, who are not entitled to walk aft of the paddle-boxes, who berth forward, and either arrange for their own provision, or mess with the warrant-officers or engineers. Every passenger of the first class shall pay the following sum, as table-money, for the voyage from Bombay to Suez, or from Suez to Bombay, viz.: — A lady or gentleman Rs. 200 A child ten years of age, and above five years . ... loo A child five years and above one SO A child one year and under 50 A child under one year and with the mother .... Free It is to be understood, that for the above sums the passengers are to be provided with a plain, substantial table ; but no person is entitled to more than one pint of wine and one bottle of beer per diem. Cabin passengers have the first choice of seats at the table, and after them the saloon passengers in preference to those on the deck, whose priority will be arranged according to their standing on the passage-list. The seats will be arranged by the commander, and, once taken, they cannot be changed without his permission during the voyage. In addition to tlie table-money, the following sums will be charged for the accommodation engaged by first-class passengers, viz. : — A treble cabin • Rs. 1000 A double cabin 800 A single cabin 500 A saloon berth 350 A deck passage , 300 40 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Every second-class passenger shall pay Rs. 150. For each European servant 50 Rs. must be paid as subsistance- money, and 50 Rs. as passage-money; for native seirvants the charge will be one-half the rate for a European : but none are to be con- sidered and taken as servants unless they actually accompany their masters or mistresses. A passenger who has engaged a cabin may make what arrange- ment he likes for its occupation ; he may either keep it entirely to himself, or admit to share it with any one that he pleases, provided only that the name of the person so admitted (if an adult) have been previously on one of the lists, and subject to the following re- strictions, viz.: — A treble cabin cannot be appropriated to the accommodation of more than — Four ladies. Three gentlemen. Six children. One lady and four children. Two ladies and three children. Three ladies and two children. One gentleman and three children. Two gentlemen and two children. A lady and her husband with two children, A double cabin cannot be appropriated to more than — Three ladies. Two gentlemen. Four children A lady and three children. Two ladies and two children. A gentleman with two children. A lady and her husband with one child. A single cabin cannot be appropriated to more than — Two ladies. One gentlemen. Three children One lady and two children. RULES FOR BOMBAY PASSENGERS. 41 Passengers in a steamer that may from accident or other cause be obliged to return to port, will be entitled to the refund of the amount that has been paid, deducting therefrom a sum for the table allow- ance of the commander according to the number of days that the vessel may have been at sea, calculating the average time occupied in a voyage to or from Suez to be eighteen days and Aden ten days. For the convenience of passengers from the Red Sea to India, the commanders of the Honourable Company's packets are authorised to receive payment of passage-money at Suez, or any port between Suez and Bombay, in sovereigns, Spanish dollars or German crowns, at the following rates of exchange, viz.: — Sovereigns at Ra. 10 each. Spanish dollars at „ 2 and 3 annas each. German crowns at ,, 2 and 2 annas each. Each cabin-passenger may, if he pleases, put all his baggage into his cabin. he saloon and deck passengers will be allowed to keep one box or bag above. The rest of the baggage is to be in the baggage-room, and passengers will be allowed access to it twice a week, on a day and hour iixed by the commander, who will appoint a person to have charge of the baggage. Any applicant may be refused a passage without any cause being assigned, either by the authorities at Bombay or by the commander of the vessel when away from Bombay; but a report of the rejection is to be communicated to Government. All persons who take passage, either themselves or through their agents, will be considered as thereby binding themselves to comply with these rules, which will be shown by the master-attendant or by the commander of the vessel to parties who engage a passage. 42 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. KOUTE VIA FRANCE, GERMANY OR ITALY. An impression is abroad that parties lea%iDg England for India may travel through France, Germany or Italy, em- barking for Alexandria at either Marseilles, Trieste or Naples, at as reasonable cost, and with as little trouble as if they had taken their passage in the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers from Southampton. That such routes have their advantages, in the information and experience which travelling on the continent imparts to the intelligent, no one can deny; but that they are, in other respects, less troublesome or more economical than the sea trip cannot by experience be maintained. In tnith, no person can even compute with accuracy the actual ex- pense of a land-journey, for though the charges for posting by diligence, eil-wagon or vetturino, may be easily ascer- tained, it is impossible to estimate probable hotel charges, the extortions of gendarmerie, custom-house officers, pass- port employes, &c., or to foretel what detentions may take place en route, detentions which, if for only one hour beyond the time for the departure of the steamer, involve a prolonged stay of another month. We, there- fore, feel justified in discarding all minute particulars re- specting the routes we have indicated, simply mentioning that parties who do not seek the accommodation of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's boats until they reach Malta or Alexandria, will have to pay (ratcably) a higher sum for their passage to Ceylon, Madras or Calcutta, than would be charged them were they to embark, in the first instance, at Southampton. We may add, liowever, that should any parties, in the fiicc of these difficulties and objections, still prefer proceeding by the continental COMPARATIVE ESTIMATE OF EXPENSE. 4Q route, tliey will do well to limit their luggage to the least possible supply, and ahvays refer, before deciding on the trip, to parties in London, who can give them the latest and fullest information on the subject. COMPARATIVE ESTIMATE OF EXPENSE. We must not omit to advert to the total expence of an overland journey, for it is an important question to all who 7mist go to India. We think it will be found, on a fair calculation, that this is, by no means, so much in excess of the cost round the Cape of Good Hope as people are led to imagine. It is urged sometimes, and the fact is beyond dispute, that a comfortable cabin may now be had, in any first-class ship, for £110 and a half cabin for .€85 ; but we shall presently show, by a comparative estimate, how the case fairly stands. Independently of the cost, there are other important points worthy of consideration, which are frequently for- gotten by those who suffer themselves to be engrossed by the mere pecuniary view of the question. For example, there is an amazing difference in the time consumed in the two routes. Proceeding overland, there will be two months gained which may be either passed at home, or, if the attractions of England have ceased, can be employed in anticipating the stipulated period of a return to, or arrival in India. In the latter case — for we presume the traveller to be in the East India Company's service — the Indian pay 44 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. will be received two months sooner, and what is of greater moment, by far, two months' time is gained in " actual service," a consideration w^hich, at some future day, may be of the last importance to the ci\il or military officer. If to these advantages we add the difference in the cost of the equipment for a six weeks' and a four months' trip; the knowledge acquired by witnessing variety of scenery and diversity of manners ; the effect on the health and spirits of perpetual change ; the slight risk of delays from accidental want of water and provisions, damage in gales of wind, and other casualties which often drive sailing vessels into intermediate ports and prolong their voyage, there can, we should think, be no difference of opinion as to the superior claims of the overland route. As the nature of the currency with which the traveller should supply himself is a question of great importance, we consider it within our province to remark that sovereigns are, by far, the best coin that can be carried for purposes of general supply. Letters of credit may be obtained, however, to be used in the event of accident rendering additional funds necessary ; but it is prudent to endeavour to avoid a resort to them, for the exchange and commission on advances made upon such letters of credit, subject the drawer to considerable loss, an observation that applies particularly to Egypt. At Ceylon the sovereign is at a premium, frequently fetching 31 shillings. COMPARATIVE ESTIMATE OK EXPENSE. 45 We now proceed to exhibit the comparative cost of the general modes of reaching India : — A gentleman and his wife by ship (1.) * . . . £250 Cabin fittings 20 Servant 20 Additional outfit 60 £350 Steam to Bombay £289 „ Madras 380 Calcutta 400 Gentleman sailing by ship (poop accommoda- tion) (2.) t • £180 Servant 20 Cabin fittings 15 Additional outfit 30 £245 Steam to Bombay £184 „ Madras 210 „ Calcutta 250 * (1.) To Bombay, ship may be .... £230 t (2.) To Bombay, ship may be .... 150 46 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Gentleman by ship (lower deck accommoda- tion (3.)* £110 Cabin fittings . , 12 Ship servant's attendance 3 Additional outfit 30 €155 Steam to Bombay £136 „ Madras 146 Calcutta 160 Cadet by ship, half a cabin .€85 Cabin fittings 10 Ship servants 3 Additional outfit 30 €128 Steam to Bombay .€126 Madras 136 >} » Calcutta 146 We may conclude these remarks by stating that the "Peninsular and Oriental Company^' have contracted with Her Majesty^s government to establish a monthly com- munication between Ceylon and Hong Kong, touching at Penang and Singapore en route, and that they have con- * (3 ) To Bombay ship may be £100 THE HOMKWAUD PASSAGE. 47 tractcd to build steamers of 1200 tons and 430 horse- power, for tliat particular service. The " East India Com- pany" are also building four steamers of 1200 tons and 500 horse-power, for the mail ser^dce between Suez and Bombay. The whole of these wiU be completed with the greatest possible dispatch, so that at no distant period, as regards steam communication, "the just expectations of the people of India" will be realised, and the complete scheme of intercourse which the late Lord William Ben- tinck emphatically pronounced would be ' cheaply bought at any price,' will be in full and complete operation. At some distant period we may hope to see a railway from Cairo to Suez supersede even the present rapid desert-transit ; but as everything in relation to such a pro- ject is at present merely in embryo and surrounded by obstacles, it would be premature to dwell upon its effects. THE HOMEWARD PASSAGE. To the " homeward bound" who engages his passage in the Peninsular Company's steamer right through to Eng- land, we may address the following information. We wiU suppose him to be at Calcutta, or the provinces under the Bengal Presidency. Having made up his mind to proceed to England, and settled the period of his de- parture, he addresses the Agent of the Company in Calcutta, requesting him to secure a passage in the steamer appointed 48 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. to proceed to Suez in the month he may have selected. The advertisements pubUshed in the Calcutta papers will indicate the arrangements made for the departure of the steamers, and the plans in the Appendix to this volume will assist the intending passenger to select a cabin. The prices of accommodation which we have given in pounds sterling do not vary in India. The conversion of pounds sterling into rupees at the current exchange of the day, will at once give the amount. If the party be bent upon making a prolonged stay in Egypt, it will only be necessary to engage a passage to Suez, taking a certificate from the captain that the voyage has been made in one of the Peninsular and Oriental Com- pany's vessels, in order to ensure a passage fi'om Alexandria to Southampton, at some future period, in one of the vessels of the same establishment, by paying the amount (exclu- sive of desert transit) that would have been exacted in Cal- cutta for the entire passage. If, however, the traveller, after remaining in Egypt, purpose visiting the Continent of Europe prior to his return to England, he need not trouble himself about the cei'tificate. Ha\ing engaged his passage, the homeward bound will next think of his equipment for the trip. What we have said on this subject {vide page 4) in the instructions to out- ward-bound passengers will equally apply to him. No cabin furniture whatever is required, nor will anything be needed in addition to the ample wardrobe which a resident in India generally possesses, beyond a couple of blouses, or light jean shooting-coats, and a sola hat. Should the traveller be resident at Madras, or under the THE HOMEWARD PASSAGE. 49 Fort St. George government, he shonlcl address his appli- cation to the Oriental Company's agent at the Presi- dency, who will give him all necessary information as to the time when the steamer may be expected at Madras. He -will be required to be perfectly ready to start, as the stay of the vessel in the Madi-as roads seldom exceeds the few houi's requisite in coaling. Officers on the Bombay establishment will, it is pre- sumed, for the most part, leave their own Presidency in the East India Company's monthly steamers, the regulations regarding which will be found in a preceding page. The accommodation of the government boats terminating at Suez, the Bombay officer will be thrown upon his own resources for the remainder of his trip. He will accord- ingly do wisely, if he wish to get rapidly to England, to address himself a month before hand to the agent of the Peninsular and Oriental Company in Egypt, to book him a passage thence to Southampton, and to arrange for his transit across the desert.* - Officers on sick-leave or furlough very frequently arrive without certain necessary documents, and are consequently subject to great inconvenience and expence. They should be pro\ided with — Certificate of length of service. " of being allowed a furlough. " of date to which pay has been issued. If from Bengal, a certificate from the pilot in duplicate * See Appendix A. 50 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. of the date of the ship's leaving the Sand Heads, and if it be intended to claim income-allowance from the military fund, a certificate from the secretary to the fund of being entitled to such an allowance. The voyage from India to Suez, as far as the attractions of the intermediate ports are concerned, presents very few cliarms for the traveller ; and, even if they were numerous, the stay at each place is so brief that there is scarcely any opportunity of enjoying them; but every change is accept- able to the landsman confined for several days on shipboard, more particularly if the scenes he beholds have a dash of novelty in them. Arrived at Madras therefore (we speak now to the Bengal ofiicer) he will pull ashore in one of the Mussoolah boats, whose peculiar construction and safe navigation through the serf that perpetually rolls upon I MUSSOOI.AH BOAT. the shore at that port, has always been a subject of surprise to the novice. If he have a friend at the Presidency, he will probably get the use of a carriage for the day, if not, he M^ill be able to hire a " shigram" (palanquin carriage), or a "bandy" (gig)^ and drive to all the most striking parts in the town. The Mount-road, CEYLON. 51 with its numerous European shops, and monument to Sir Thomas Munro, the fort and the arsenal, the college, the pubHc stables, the government house, the Athenaeum library, the Black town, &c., will furnish subjects of inspection enough to occupy a few hours very pleasantly. Ceylon. — The next point on the route, has its attrac- tions for the Madras, as well as the Bengal officer. An idea of these may be gathered from the following lively and intelligent description of a visit to Point de Galle, the coaling port, derived from " The Monthly Times," and written by a gentleman, who had touched there, in the " H'mdostan," on his way to England. " On the seventh day, including our twenty-four hours' detention at Madras, after leaving the Sandheads, we found ourselves, in the morning, approaching the beautiful Island of Ceylon, and anchored about noon in Point de Galle harbour. The entrance to the harbour was pretty enough — low rocks, over which the waves were beating and bounding, extended to the left, and a point of land seemed to jut out prominently to them, on which is built the Dutch Fort of olden days, and which still retains its characteristic look of Dutch solidity and unavailing mas- siveness. There is no appearance of town from the ship ; and very few habitations visible, or indications of much cultivation. The old Dutch church forms the principal object in the Fort. You know I had letters from a family long resident at Galle. I proposed to see them on the E 2 52 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. follo-sving morning, but they would not hear of my remain- ing on board, so I landed in the afternoon, and soon found all was kindness and hospitality on the part of my new Cingalese acquaintances. The residence was formerly the old Government House in the days of the Dutch. It was a large, roomy, substantial building ; the doors were lofty, and the walls panelled in stucco, and painted with white and ochre ; the fittings-up and furniture were plain, but substantially made of carved ebony and satin wood. " On the following day, after a most gloriously com- fortable night's rest in a very clean bed and cool capacious room, we started after breakfast in a small palkee-garree and pony, always easily obtainable on hire, to visit a countrv-house on a hill about three miles from the Fort. The drive was through a beautiful and open well -shaded road, with frequent interspersings of small cleared patches of rice and other cultivation. The road itself was narrow, with ditches on either side, but well metalled Avith broken granite. The comfortable houses of the bm'ghers rose occasionally by the road side, on httle shadv eminences here and there, and seemed neat and peculiarly cozy. They were chiefly oblong, tiled buildings, yA\\\ a Acrandah to the front. These burghers are descendants either from the former Dutch or Portuguese possessors of this coast, and many that I saw were not a httle darkened in their descent. On reaching the hill, which we had to walk up, I found the sun sadly oppressive; but Ave were amply repaid for the ascent, for the A-iew from it was superb. The sea was visible, and almost cA'ery where open to us along the horizon, through the different hills ; and every here and there, in our vicinity and below us, were beau- tiful vallies and richly cleared spots, Avith Avell-dcfincd CEYLON. 53 roads running through them, and occasionally cottages and huts dotted in every direction ; the grand distant mountains forming afar a tall and varied background. o> "I returned to the ship after dinner in the evening much gratified with my visit. The mode of living at Ceylon is more English, in all respects, than at Calcutta ; the table more simple — the servants fewer — and the whole character of domestic economy less Oriental than we are accustomed to on the Indian Continent ; but the scenery of the island itself is far from partaking of this un-Oriental appearance ; it realises, in everything, all we fancy and read of in descriptions of tropical islands. The closeness and abundance of the vegetation, the variety of Eastern jungle trees, the palm-like characteristic towering of the cocoa and beetle-nut tree, everywhere prominent in the luxuriant woods around you, all tend to give to Ceylon a picturesque and Eastern style of beauty, very different from the low plains and unvaried flatness of the country in Bengal. " The dresses of the natives are different from Bengal ; men wear combs like the women of other countries, and have a loose cloth round their legs, vastly resembling a petticoat. Their language is the Cingalese, an open and gentle sort of well-vowelled dialect, which sounds prettily and euphoniously enough, like the Malayan language. " Trade altogether is not very extensive in Ceylon. At Galle there are but three or four merchants, forming the entire mercantile community of the place. At Columbo there are, perhaps, twenty merchants and agents, and there is a Ceylon bank. The local trade is confined to three articles, viz., coffee, cocoa-nut oil, and cinnamon. 54 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. though a few folks are beginning to turn their attention to sugar. Coffee is reared in plantations on the higher lands, and in chosen spots in the interior. Some of the planta- tions have done well, and after the third year are described as having paid more with the one season^s produce than all the preceding and preliminary outlay and price of block put together. Several concerns, however, are losing, the soil being unsuitable; the present low prices for Ceylon coifee, in England, must utterly ruin them. It has been proved that the only chance of success is with clearances on the forest and large tree lands : the plant thrives in these, though it takes three years to bear, and attains maturity only after the fifth year ; it is expected to last ten years. Like all other concerns, those under proprietors themselves fare the best, and are easily distinguishable from those superintended by agents ; but all managers hve very uncomfoi'tably. The superintendents get about 150 rupees per month, which is little enough, for supphes of the commonest necessity reach them only from Kandv, or from a distance, and they are fi'equently without supphes at all, subsisting then on rice and the poorest produce of the villages around them. The Ceylon coffee itself ranks next to Mocha in the English markets ; but recent prices must be insufficient to meet the charges of production. It is planted much in the same manner as vaih. tea in Assam. After clearance, they set the plants at certain distances, when they grow to about the same height as the tea-tree. After blossoming and ripening, and before falling, the fruit is gathered; when there is a simple process, by some wheels and cheap machinery, to clear the berry from the pulp and skin. " There are cinnamon gardens, near GaUc, but they lu'c CEYLON. 55 not pleasing to look at, and assuredly there is no spicy and aromatic odour on the breeze, as the poets would fain establish in reference to this Island, the famed Taprobane of old ! When you bruise a twig or shoot of the cinnamon tree and break off a small bit of the bark, the scent of the cinnamon is powerful and pleasant. The cocoa-nut oil is expressed much in the same manner as in Bengal, but it surprised me, that for domestic use at Galle, it was so expensive ; they asked 6d. for two quart bottles of it, or at this rate about 5 rupees and more per maund. I should have expected it to be cheaper in Ceylon. " The Rifle corps seemed to be a fine, well-disciplined body of men, chiefly Malays or their descendants. The regiment is oflicered like the Une, and the dress, appoint- ments, setting up and look of the soldiers were excellent. "The salaries and receipts of the public functionaries and others in Ceylon are not quite so good as under the Company, but the habits of living, as I have before remarked, are more economical, and I dare say there is more money comparatively saved in Ceylon, than in the Company's wider and more imperial territories." The new arrival at Ceylon is sorely beset by pedlars, who tempt him to invest a small portion of his capital in ivory snuff-boxes and knife-handles, tortoise-shell combs, card- racks, &c. A very few of these articles purchased, at a third of the price asked for them, may prove acceptable to friends in England, but we would recommend the Ceylon visitor to abstain from too large an indulgence in his gene- rous iucKnations, for ivory pays a heavy duty in England, 56 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. and, after all, the articles brought home may be procured in England at as cheap a rate. After leaving Ceylon and passing through the Maldive islands, Avhicli, though very low and level, are green and picturesque, no object of interest presents itself until the port of Aden is reached. Aden, Avhich was formerly called " Portus Romanicus,^' is a town of the Yemen, which, fi'om its position, and now on account of its recent occupation by the English, pro- mises to become a commercial and military station of gi'eat importance. The town is built on the crater of an ex- hausted volcano, and is situate at the extremity of a small peninsula, formed of volcanic matter, and attached to the continent solely by a low neck of land from 500 to 600 yards wide, and which might be easily isolated by a canal. The harbour is a magnificent basin, capable of containing an immense fleet, and is entered by a narrow passage be- tween two other craters. It would be easy to establish defensive works on the rocks, which would place the fort in safety against any attack. One redoubt has been already raised as a security against the Arabs, ever ready to attack the English. From this point to the gate of the town, has been traced a road of about a league in length, by which the defile is reached that forms the entrance to Aden. This defile is being fortified with a gate, eddently constnicted to resist other attacks than those of the Arabs, and is about 100 yards long, and foiu" or five wide; it is Q < ADEN. 57. cut out of a rock which stauds 150 yards above the level of the sea. A formidable battery, commanding the entrance, is in process of being erected above the rock on the left of the defile. A covered way, with an arch thrown from one rock to another, unites the system of defence which the batteries on the summit of the rocks on the left will complete. In despite of sickness and desolation, the population of Aden has greatly augmented in a short space of time. When first occupied, the population did not exceed 4,000 ; it is now upwards of 30,000 ; and every morning at day- break 50 to 200 camels may be seen coming into the town, laden with the produce of the interior, provisions, vegetables, &c., to console and comfort the otherwise benighted occupants of this extinguished crater. The fact is, the security to property afforded by a residence within the limits of British possession and influence, has contri- buted, in no inconsiderable degree, to this outward sign of prosperity. A hotel on the sea-shore, kept by some enterprising Parsees from Bombay, and a great number of donkies, attended by their drivers or proprietors (Httle woolly- headed m-chins), offer to the passenger who may go ashore, the contrast of a dinner of fish and a ride to the town and cantonment of Aden. Beyond these, the attractions of the place may be represented by a cipher. Quitting Aden, the shores of the Red Sea are frequently seen, but rarely approached during the upward voyage. In six days Suez is reached, and as soon as boats can come oft' to the steamer, the passengers are landed and 58 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. almost immediately conveyed by van (see previous details on this head) across the desert. The town of Suez offers no kind of inducement to pro- long one's stay. Small, dirty and destitute of any archi- tectural beauties or antique remains, it exhibits the worst specimen of a Mahomedan city in the whole Ottoman empire. Arrived at Suez, it vnW be for the passenger who has not contracted for the entire trip home, to select his own method of getting to Cairo. The vans of the Transit Com- pany offer unquestionably the most convenient and ex- peditious mode of carrying the traveller across the desert ; but there are not wanting persons who prefer the romance and independence of a tedious trip on the back of a horse, donkey or camel. If there were any objects of interest worthy of an occasional halt in the desert, the inconveni- ence of this slow progress would have its counterpoise; but when we assure the traveller that there is not one single fragment of antique remains, one solitary picturesque spot, nay, nothing, beyond one tree, seven station-houses, and a multitude of rat-holes and camel-skeletons, to diversify the broad, glaring, sandy waste, he will not hesitate about the prudence of paying his £15 — the whole cost of transit to Alexandria — or j€12 to Cairo only, and joining the bulk of his fellow-travellers in the omnibuses. From Cairo a freer choice is left to the traveller. If he prefer lingering in Egypt, he will find in a visit to the cataracts, the temples of Luxor, Carnac, &c., enough to engage his attention for an indefinite number of weeks. On these points, however, we have supplied information PLAGUE OF EGYPT. 59 among the "Miscellaneous" matter at the close of this volume. This seems a fitting place, for some obsen^ations re- specting the plague of Egypt, the fear of being infected with which deters many individuals from prolonging their stay in one of the most interesting countries in the world. To say that the disease is not contagious, would be pronounced absurd at a time when the various states in the Mediterranean have been devising schemes for resisting the ingress of goods and persons coming from Egypt until they have been completely depm-ated : there can, however, be no question that fear and filth are great promoters of contagion. On the subject of the former — for to address a homily to Englishmen upon the virtues of cleanliness were as impertinent as super- fluous — the subjoined extracts, from a clever work entitled '^ Eothen," are peculiarly apposite. " Very soon after my arrival, I went to the house of the Levantine to whom my credentials were addressed. At his door several persons (all Arabs) were hanging about and keeping guard. It was not till after some delay, and the passing of some communications with those in the interior of the citadel, that I was admitted. At length, however, I was conducted thi'ough the court, and up a flight of stairs, and finally into the apartment where business was transacted. The room was divided by an excellent substantial fence of iron bars, and behind this grille the banker had his station. The truth was, that from fear of the plague, he had adopted the course usually taken by European residents, and had shut himself up ' in strict quarantine,' — that is to say, that he had, as he 60 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. hoped, cut himself off from all communication with in- fecting substances. The Europeans long resident in the East, without any, or with scarcely any exception, are firmly connnced that the plague is propagated by contact, and by contact only, — that if the yean but avoid the touch of an infecting substance, they are safe, and that if they cannot, they die. This belief induces them to adopt the contrivance of putting themselves in that state of siege which they call ' Quarantine.^ It is a part of theii* faith that metals, and hempen rope, and also, I fancy, one or two other substances, will not carry the infection; and they likewise believe that the germ of Pestilence which lies in an infected substance, may be destroyed by sub- mersion in water, or by the action of smoke. They, there- fore, guard the doors of their houses with the utmost care against intrusion, and condemn themselves, and all the members of their family, including any European servants, to a strict imprisonment within the Avails of their dwelling. Their native attendants are not allowed to enter at all, but they make the necessary purchases of provision, which are hauled up through one of the windows by means of a rope, and are then soaked in water. "I knew nothing of these mysteries, and Avas not there- fore prepared for the sort of reception which I met with. I advanced to the iron fence, and putting my letter be- tween the bars, politely profiered it to Mr. Banker. INIr. Banker received me Avith a sad and dejected look, and not ' Avith open arms,^ or Avith any arms at all, but with — a pair of tongs ! — I placed my letter betAVcen the iron fingers Avhich picked it up as if it were a A'iper, and conveyed it away to be scorched, and purified by fire and smoke. I Avas disgusted at this reception, and at the idea that any- PLAGUE OF EOYPT. (51 thing of mine could carry infection to the poor wretcli wlio stood on the other side of the grille — pale, and trcmbHng, and already meet for death. I looked with something of the Mahometan's feeling upon these little contrivances for eluding fate ; and in this instance at least they were vain; a few more days, and the poor money-changer who had strived to guard the days of his life (as though they were coins) with bolts and bars of iron — he was seized by the plague, and he died. To people entertaining such opinions as these respecting the fatal effect of contact, the narrow and crowded streets of Cairo were terrible as the easy slope that leads to Avernus. The roaring ocean and the beetling crags owe something of their sublimity to this — that if they be tempted, they can take the warm life of a man. To the contagonist, filled as he is with the dread of final causes, having no faith in destiny, nor in the fixed will of God, and with none of the devil -may care indiffer- ence which might stand him in stead of creeds — to such a one, every rag that shivers in the breeze of a plague- stricken city has this sort of sublimity. If by any terrible ordinance he be forced to venture forth, he sees death dangling from every sleeve, and as he creeps forward, he poises his shuddering limbs between the imminent jacket that is stabbing at his right elbow, and the mmxlerous pelisse that threatens to mow him clean down, as it sweeps along on his left. But most of all he dreads that which most of all he should love — the touch of a woman's dress, for mothers and wives hurrying forth on kindly errands from the bedsides of the dying, go slouching along through the streets more wilfully, and less com'teously than the men. For a while it may be, that the caution of the poor Levantine may enable him to avoid contact, but sooner or later, perhaps, the dreaded chance arrives ; that bundle of 62 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. linen, with the dark tearful eyes at the top of it, that labours along with the voluptuous clumsiness of Grisi — she has touched the poor Levantine with the hem of her sleeve ! From that dread moment his peace is gone ; his mind, for ever hanging upon the fatal touch, invites the blow which he fears ; he watches for the symptoms of plague so carefulty, that sooner or later they come in truth. The parched mouth is a sign — his mouth is parched; the throbbing brain — his brain does throb ; the rapid pulse — he touches his own wrist (for he dares not ask counsel of any man lest he be deserted), he touches his wrist, and feels how his frighted blood goes galloping out of his heart; there is nothing but the fatal swelling that is wanting to make his sad conviction complete ; immediately he has an odd feel under the arm — no pain, but a little straining of the skin; he would to God it were his fancy that were strong enough to give him that sensation ; this is the worst of all ; it now seems to him that he could be happy and contented with his parched mouth, and his throbbing brain, and his rapid pulse, if only he could know that there were no swelling under the left arm ; but dares he try ? — in a moment of calmness and dehberation he dares not, but when for a while he has writhed under the tor- ture of suspense, a sudden strength of will drives him to seek and know his fate ; he touches the gland, and finds the skin sane, and sound, but under the cuticle there lies a small lump like a pistol bullet that moves as he pushes it. Oh ! but is this for all certaintv, is this the sentence of death ? feel the gland of the other arm : there is not the same lump exactly, yet something a little like it ; have not som.e people glands naturally enlarged? — Mould to Heaven he were one ! So he does for himself the work of tlie plague, and when the angel of death, thus courted, PLAGUE OP EGYPT. 63 does indeed, and in truth come, he has only to finish that which has been so well begun ; he passes his fiery hand over the brain of the ^dctim, and lets him rave for a season, but all is chance-wise, of people, and things once dear, or of people and things indifferent. Once more the poor fellow is back at his home in fair Provence, and sees the sun-dial that stood in his childhood's garden — sees his mother, and the long-since- forgotten face of that little dead sister — (he sees her, he says, on a Sunday morning, for all the church-bells are ringing) ; he looks up and down through the universe, and owns it well piled with bales upon bales of cotton, and cotton eternal — so much so, that he feels — he knows — he swears he could make that winning hazard, if the billiard table would not slant upwards, and if the cue were a cue worth playing with ; but it is not — it's a cue that won't move — his own arm won't move — in short, there's the devil to pay in the brain of the poor Levantine, and, perhaps, the next night but one he becomes the 'life and the soul' of some squalling jackal family, who fish him out by the foot from his shallow and sandy grave. ''Better fate was mine; by some happy perverseness, (occasioned, perhaps, by my disgust at the notion of being received with a pair of tongs), I took it into my pleasant head that all the European notions about contagion were thoroughly unfounded, — that the plague might be provi- dential, or 'epidemic,' (as they phrase it), but was not contagious, and that I could not be killed by the touch of a woman's sleeve, nor yet by her blessed breath. I there- fore determined that the plague should not alter my habits and amusements in any one respect. Though I came to this resolve from impulse, I think that I took the course 64 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. which was iu effect the most prudent, for the cheerfulness of spirits which I was thus enabled to retain, discouraged the yellow- winged angel, and prevented him from taking a shot at me. I however so far respected the opinion of the Europeans, that I avoided touching, when I could do so without privation or inconvenience. This endeavour fur- nished me with a sort of amusement as I passed through the streets. The usual mode of moving from place to place, in the city of Cairo, is upon donkies, of which great numbers are always in readiness, with donkey-boys attached. I had two constantly (until one of them died of the plague,) waiting at my door upon the chance of being wanted. I found this way of moving about exceed- ingly pleasant, and never attempted any other. I had only to mount my beast, and tell my donkey-boy the point for which I was bound, and instantly I began to glide on at a capital pace. The streets of Cairo are not paved in any way, but strewed with a dry sandy soil, so deadening to sound, that the foot fall of my donkey could scarcely be heard. There is no trottoir, and as you ride through the streets, you mingle with the people on foot ; those who are in your way, upon being warned by the shouts of the donkey-boy, move very slightly aside, so as to leave you a narrow lane through which you pass at a gallop. In this way you glide on delightfully in the very midst of ci'owds without being inconvenienced or stopped for a moment ; it seems to you that it is not the donkey, but the donkey- boy who wafts you on through pleasant groups, and air that feels thick with the fragrance of burial spice. ' Eh ! Sheik, — Eh ! Bint, — reggalek — shumlack, &c., &c. — O old man, O virgin, get out of the way on the right, — O virgin, O old man, get out of the way on the left, — this Englishman comes, he comes, he comes !' The narrow JOURNEY TO ENGLAND. 65 alley which these shouts cleared for my passage^ made it possible, though difficult, to go on for a long way without touching a single person, and my endeavours to avoid such contact M^ere a sort of game for me in my lone- liness, which w^as not without interest. If I got through a street without being touched, I won ; if I was touched, I lost, — lost a deuce of a stake, according to the theory of the Europeans, but that I deemed to be all nonsense. — I only lost that game, and would certainly win the next/^ The route from Cairo to Alexandria, merely reversing the order of the trip, is described in a foregoing part of this volume. Arrived at Alexandria — provided the pas- senger has not booked himself in India for the entire transit to Southampton — it often becomes a question which route shall be taken to accomplish the remainder of the journey. The taste, inclinations or curiosity of some will lead them to Constantinople, to Syria, the Holy Land, the Grecian Archipelago ; others may feel disposed to embark for Trieste, in order to visit Venice, northern Italy and Germany. Many chalk out for themselves a trip to Naples, Rome, Florence, Switzerland, &c., previously pimfying themselves of the bugbear plague at Malta ; and some few embark in the French steamer and make their way to Marseilles, there to serve quarantine preparatory to a tour through France. *o* If it were as much our province to advise as it is our purpose to inform, we would suggest, as the result of the information imparted to us by many travellers, that it is, on many accounts, most desirable that persons fi'om India should come straight to England, hi the first instance, thence betaking themselves to the continent uf Eui'ope, if so in- ' F 66 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. clined. The chief reasons for this proceeding are — the entire avoidance of the quarantines, which are often irk- some and always expensive; the gratification of the natural affections by the earliest possible meeting with relatives and friends ; the facility of obtaining information respecting the most attractive routes and introductions to families on the Continent; the opportunity of selecting a com- panion ft'om old fellow-soldiers, fellow-officials or Indian friends similarly bent upon a pleasurable excursion. But these arguments may weigh as a feather against the determination to visit the interesting portions of Europe and Asia we have indicated, preparatory to placing foot in Ensrland. It is difficult to eradicate from many Ansrlo- Indians the notion that it is better to arrive cleansed of Indian rust and polished by a tour through civilised lands, or more prudent " to see the world" while you are in it, than to trust to the chance of quitting England when you have just tasted its infinite pleasures. For the consideration of such reasoners, therefore, we submit some information made available to us respecting quarantines. We begin with Malta. A passage to this island from Alexandria may be prociu'ed in the " Peninsular and Oi-i- ental Company^s" boats for £17 lOs. The French steam- ers charge .€10, but this does not include the table, wines, &c., which are paid for separately to the restauratevr on board. The trip in the English steamer occupies /o«r days. The French vessel goes first to Syra, to meet the Constan- tinople boat, and this occupies seven days. Arrived at Malta, intimation is given by the captain of the number of MALTESE LAZARETTO. 67 persons who meditate remaiuing there, and accommodation is accordingly provided for them in the lazaretto. Their stay will depend upon the nature of the bill of health carried by the vessel ; it is not, however, at any time, less than twelve days, and may extend to twenty. The regulations to be observed in the lazaretto are given below. GENERAL REGULATIONS To he observed by all Persons performing Quarantine in the Lazaretto of Malta. I. All passengers, on landing, are to give their names to the Captain of the Lazaretto, which are to be entered in the Registry of the Office. II. The Captain of the Lazaretto will assign apartments for passen- gers, and each passenger will be provided with two chairs, a table, and a wooden bedstead, for which no charges are made ; but any damage done by the passengers to the apartments or furniture is to be made good by them before pratique III. Passengers are not to be permitted to enter other apartments; nor can they be allowed to receive visitors except at the parlatoria of the lazaretto, and that only during office hours ; nor are they to trespass the limits assigned to them by the Captain of the lazaretto. IV. Passengers must pay a strict attention to all the instructions they F 2 68 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. may receive from the Captain of the lazaretto and from the Health Guardians, and particularly in every point that regards their bag- gage, clothes, &c., being properly aired and handled during the period of their quarantine; and their quarantine will only commence to reckon from the day on which all their baggage, clothes, &c., have been duly opened and handled. V. All letters and parcels, or other eflfects brought by passengers, must be given up, in order that they may be fumigated or depurated separately from them, as the occasion may require. VI. All cases of sickness must be reported immediately to the Captain of the lazaretto, and all persons sick are to be visited immediately by the Physician to the lazaretto, after which official visit, passen- gers are at liberty to avail themselves of any medical attendance they think proper. VII. Passengers are to pay the Government fee for the Guardians em- ployed to atttend them for the number of days of their qiiarantine, at the following rates, viz.: — at Is. 3d. per day for the Guardian who attends one passenger, and at 2s. 6^^. per day for each Guardian who attends more than one passenger. They are to victual the Guardian or Guardians during their quarantine, or to pay to each Guardian an allowance of 7d. per day in lieu thereof. It is to be clearly understood that the Guardians are employed solely for quarantine purposes, and they are strictly prohibited to interfere in any other service whilst they attend passengers. VIII. The office hours at the lazaretto are from 8 a.m to 12, and from 2 P.M. to 5 daily; and all letters sent to the fumigating room before 9 A.M. daily, will be delivered in Valetta at 10, and those sent before 3 will be delivered in Valetta at 4 p.m. by the letter mes- senger, who is entitled to receive from the passengers a penny for each note, parcel, or letter, as a remuneration for his trouble and for boat-hire. MALTESE LAZARETTO. 69 IX. A daily report of all circumstances is to be made by the Captain of the lazaretto to the Superintendent of Quarantine and Marine Police. N.B. A trattoria has been established at the lazaretto for the convenience of passengers who wish to avail themselves of it, from whence they can be supplied with dmners, wines, &c., &c., in !heir own apartments. Beds complete and other articles of furniture, if required, can also be hired from a person appointed to provide them. A note of charges for the trattoria, and for the hire of furniture, will be furnished to the passengers on their applying for it. Of the manner in which the time may be passed in u lazaretto, the following graphic sketch by Mr. Stocquelcr, which appeared some mouths since in the "Asiatic Jour- nal" will convey no imperfect idea : — " Upwards of 140 passengers left Alexandria in the Oriental, at the end of May, for some fifty had joined it from Bombay ; amongst the latter were several heroes of Meanee and Hyderabad — fine young soldiers, who were covered with honom-able scars received in the desperate engagements between Su- C. Napier and the Belochees. Never, perhaps, was a vessel freighted with so many M'ho had distinguished themselves in conflict with the enemies of their country. Not less than twenty-sLx officers, who had seen service in Aff'ghanistau, China and Scinde, paced the deck every day, and described the scenes which their own prowess and that of their comrades had, for the pre- 70 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. vious three or four years, rendered memorable in the history of Britisli India. But of this large number of homeward-bound passengers, only three (one having two ladies in his family), quitted the Oriental at Malta. Those who wished to prosecute the rest of their journey by land had either failed to make the necessary provision,* or shud- dered at the prospect of twenty days' imprisonment in the lazaretto. Moreover, they flattered themselves with the belief, that they would be enabled to make the tour of the Continent when they had exhausted the various pleasures of glorious England. And so they steamed away to Southampton, leaving the few above alluded to — the writer of this among them — in the lazaretto, under sus- picion of the crime of being afflicted with the plague. "Meanwhile, let me assure the traveller from India, that even a three weeks' incarceration in the IVIalta lazaretto is not intolerable, if, which is generally the case with the imprisoned, he is lucky enough to have one or two pleasant and intelligent companions. I have before me, at this moment, a memorandum written after twelve days' of captivity, and as it may sen^e to reassure future prisoners, by conveying some idea of the scenes, impres- sions, and occupations which diversify existence in the durance they are compelled to support, I here tnmscribe it:— " ' Let me survey ray prison, and its agrtmens. I am lodged in two commodious apartments, overlooking the * Eifrhty pounds will carry a man through Italy, Switzerland, and France, with comfort, allowing for several days' stay at each place of interest. MALTESE LAZARETTO. 71 quarantine bay. I look out of the southern window of my verandah, and have the waters of the ISIediterranean forty feet only below me. Opposite, at the distance of about 300 yards, and divided from me by these waters and the quarantine harbour, are the ramparts of the fortifica- tions, surmounted by windmills, flag-staves, and a small Eomau Catholic chapel. To the right is the tei-mina- tion of the bay, where a dozen of Greek, Austrian, and English brigs and barques lie in quarantine, sufficiently near to allow me to observe the operations on board. Behind all these, a httle more to the south-eastward, is part of the subui-bs of La Valetta, the evening pro- menade, gardens, hills, &c. To my left, is the entrance to the bay, overlooked on one side by part of tbe city of La Valetta, and on the other side by Fort Manvel, now used as a part of the lazaretto. This view greets me whenever I stand in the verandah, a recreation to which one is often tempted by the clearness, coolness, and crisp- ness of the air, the beauty of the sky, and the rich blue of the water. Well, this of itself is something. Then, for moving sights, we have occasionally the arrival or de- parture of a steamer from Alexandria, or Greece, or the coast of Spain ; of vessels from Tripoli, and Smyrna, and Syra ; of speronaros from Sicily, or the Italian coast ; or we see a vessel released from quarantine, working her way out of the harbour. Early in the morning, four times in the week, the bell of the little chapel, on the summit of a rock opposite the lazaretto, tolls to prayers. The chapel is not more than twenty feet in breadth, and the same in depth. The altar occupies the back or southern side, and exactly faces us. The bell ceases, the priest dons his canonicals, and the matin mass commences, the responses being audibly chanted or muttered by the crews of ^Maltese 72 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. and Italian vessels, who are either quartered in apartments beneath us, or employed on board the vessels. The door of the chapel closes, and the work or pastime of the day commences. " ' Ha ! there's a splash ! — a sailor in quarantine has stripped himself, and plunged into the water beneath his prison-door. Another and another follow him ! How admirably they s-\vim ! the ease of the water fowl, and the rapidity of the fish. See ! one of them dives ! How long he remains under water ! "Will he drown ? — will he not be suffocated ? not a bit of it ; he rises to the surfoce, bearing in his hands some of the black, starry, thorny members of the crustaceous tribe. He has a knife in his right hand, which I did not observe before, and which he e\'idently took with him to dislodge the fish from their location in the rocky depths. Splash ! and the strong swimmer is again twenty feet below the surface. Again he rises — and again descends — and behold ! he has accumulated a per- fect breakfast of shell-fish ! Meanwhile, the others breast the waves, diving, floating, playing, and rejoicing in all the muscular strength which the noble, healthful, and refresh- ing science calls into action. AYcll, a walk will do no harm — the verandah is sixty paces long, and forty or fifty turns will give one an appetite for breakfast. A. and B. liave abundance of conversation for the promenade, and when we have exhausted the pleasures of memory, we can turn to the pleasures of hope, and debate the possibility of an abatement of the quarantine or at any rate discuss the respective advantages and pleasures of going to Syra, to Naples, or Marseilles. We are tired now, and it is time to dress. Breakfast is ready — can any thing be more satisfactory, or any thing more tempting and wholesome ? MALTESE LA/ARETTO. 73 There arc coffee and tea, and three times as many rolls as we can eat ! The eggs are as large as the finest production of the English barn-door hen, and boiled to the exact point — half a minute less, and the albumen would not have coagulated; half a minute more, and they would have been as hard as a stone. And there's a delicious dish of strawberries, brought only yesterday from the coast of Sicily, and plucked but an hour before their embarkation ! And flowers, too : The captive soothers of a captive's hours. " ' Carlo, best of servitors, knows my penchant, and decks the table with the rose, the pink, the carnation, and the fragrant thyme. " ' Breakfast over, Mr. Cassolani is announced. He is the captain of the lazaretto ; a courteous, intelligent old gentleman, of very correct notions and kind disposition. He is come to give us a list of the passengers who have just arrived from Marseilles, and to ask us to subscribe a trifle for a poor widow, whose husband, a guardiano of the lazaretto, died of apoplexy the day of our arrival. We have dropped our mites for the widow's benefit, and Cassolani condescends to pick them up, though he will not receive them from our hands. This painfully reminds us that we are prisoners on suspicion of the crime of plague — gen^ suspects. People ' in pratique,' as freedom from the lazaretto is called, will ' walk with us, talk with us, buy with us, sell with us — but they will not eat with us, drink with us,' nor pollute themselves by touching our persons or our clothes. Cassolani carries a stick, to keep us at a respectful distance, and there is a soldier of the 42nd Highlanders on the 74 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. opposite rampart, prepared to send a bullet tlirougli us if we attempt to go abroad until we are fairly cleansed of the foul imputation. "'Cassolani departs, and S. and I go to chess. From chess we flv to books. It is three o^clock, and dinner is announced. For economy and society^s sake, we have made a table d'hote, and the whole party dine together. It is true that B. looks suspiciously at one dish, and C. distrusts another ; but, nevertheless, the whole style of the thing is good and clean, comprising the English and French modes de cuisine as well as could be desired. There is, for example, soup a la Julienne, and a dish of mackerel ; roast beef a V Anglais (the beef comes to Malta from Tunis, and after serving quarantine, is fattened for the table) ; a. fricandeau of sweetbread in a well-flavoured sauce ; a stewed breast of mutton, mashed potatoes, a mac- caroni, peas or French beans, or artichokes, an apricot tart, cheese, and a salad. Oranges, cherries, and straw- berries compose our dessert, and we drink a pint of Mar- sala. What more would a man have ? " ' The sun declines, and the Maltese world emerges from its confinement. The telescopes now come into play, and we direct our views to the part of the town where the sempstresses congregate, and gaze out of the balcony van- dows, to catch the evening breeze, or any thing else that may be passing. The fall of night brings with it tea and candles, and then books, draughts, chess, and — to bed!' " Of the other agremens of the lazaretto there remains nothing to notice, if I except the numerous boats which are continually coming and going across the harbour, often JIALTESE LAZARETTO. 75 laden with females, who, in their black mantillas, with sparkling black eyes, and hair a la Madonna, resemble Spanish women. " The expense of living in the Malta lazaretto is about eleven shilhngs per diem, as thus : s. d. Breakfast 18 Dinner - - 8 A bottle of Marsala - - - - 13 Hire of Furniture ----- 8 Servants' wages (including diet) 2 3 The guardian (ditto) - 1 10 10 8 " This can be increased, if necessary, by a more abun- dant dinner, tea or coffee in the evening, spirituous liquors, and a greater quantity of furniture; but it cannot be diminished. Washing costs about one shilling per dozen pieces, and sevenpence per diem for the diet of the blan- chisseuse, who must come into the lazaretto to perform her functions. A capital circulating library keeps the incar- cerated well supplied with books (at one penny per volume per day), and Galignani's Messenger, and the Maltese papers can also be had on application to Mr. Mure's estab- ment.^' Emerging from the lazaretto, the traveller is recom- mended to pass a few days in inspecting the town and the surrounding country {vide page 11), and then to repack fB THE OVERLAND GUIDE, his luggage, despatching such as he may not require on his homeward trip direct from Malta, consigned to the care of his agent in London, with instructions as to the disposal of the same. Those travellers who prefer visiting France via Mar- seilles, will find the lazaretto there, comparatively speaking, a sort of purgatory. We subjoin the regulations recently published by the French authorities : — WITH UNCLEAN BILL OF HEALTH. Art. 1. French Post-office Packets. — 19 days after debarking effects and passengers. Passengers by these boats and their baggage. — 17 days after landing at the Lazaret; 14 days only when the bag- gage shall have been plombe at the Consulate of France at the port of embarking, and that this operation be legally certified. Art. 2. French or Foreign Men-of-War. — 17 days after the landing of passengers and their baggage. Passengers on board these vessels. — 17 days without spog- lio, 14 days with spoglio. Art. 3. Vessels with pilgrims. — 25 days. Pilgrims.— 25 days after landing. Art. 4. Every other description of sailing-vessel or steam-boat. — 21 days after lauding suspected articles. Passengers by these vessels. — 17 days without spofflio, 14 days with spoglio. Merchandise.— 21 days after landing at the Lazaret. WITH DOUBTFUL BILLS OF HEALTH. Art. 1. French Post-office packets. — 15 days after debarking effects and passengers. MARSRILLES LAZARETTO. lH Passengers by these boats and their baggage. — 14 days after landing; 12 days only when the baggage shall have been phmbe at the Consulate of France at the point of em- barking, and that this operation be legally certified. Ar'I". 2. French or Foreign Men-of-War. — 14 days after the landing of j)assengers and their baggage. Without passengers 12 days. Passengers on board these veseels. — 14 days after landing without spoglio, and 1 2 days with spoglio. Art. 3. Vessels with pilgrims. — 20 days. Pilgrims. — 20 days after landing at the Lazaret. Akt. 4. Every other description of sailing vessel or steam-boat — 15 days after landing suspected articles. Passengers by these vessels. — 14 days without spoglio after landing at the Lazaret ; 1 2 days with spoglio. Suspected goods. — 15 days after landing at the Lazaret. WITH CLEAN BILLS OF HEALTH. AuT. 1. French Post-office packets. — 12 days after debarking effects at the Lazaret. Passengers by these boats and their baggage. — 9 days after landing, and their baggage exposed to the air. AiiT. 2. French or Foreign Men-of-War. — 9 days, with or without passengers. Passengers on board these vessels. — 9 days after landing, and their baggage exposed to the air. Art. 3. Every other description of vessel or steam-boat. — 12 days after landing suspected goods. Passengers by these vessels. — 9 days. Suspected merchandise. — 12 days after landing at the Lazaret. 78 THE OVERLAND GUIDE, Of the Syra (Athens, quarantine), it is enough to say that it is more commodious and agreeable than the same estabHshment at Marseilles^ and not so convenient as the one at Malta. The Syra lazaretto is, according to the report of the latest visitors, exceedingly commodious and clean, and facing as it does the sea, where there are continual breezes, it is infinitely cooler than the city of Athens. The charges of the Trattoria are not greater than those at Malta (about eleven shilHngs per diem), and the detention in quarantine never exceeds seventeen days, and when a clean bill of health is brought by the French steamer from Alexandria, the duration of the imprisonment is very much less. THE VOYAGE TO SOUTHAMPTON. Unless plague be prevalent when the steamer leaves Alex- andria, or sickness prevail on the passage, no quarantine is served at the Motherbank. By return of post, the steamer goes into Southampton docks ; the whole of the luggage is forthwith conveyed to the dock warehouse, and the examination commences with that of the first person on the list. Passengers are not required to attend in person when their luggage is examined. Those who desire to leave VOYAGK TO SOUTHA!\lPTOX. 79 Soutliampton by train immediately upon arrival, or who do not wish to subject themselves to the annojauce of being kept in the docks waiting their turn, are recommended to deposit their keys (including name and address) with INIr. Hill^s clerk,* gi^'ing him, at the same time, a list of the packages, distinguishing such as contain articles subject to duty. For want of proper arrangement on the part of the passenger, we have knosvn three hours pass in the examination of one gentleman's luggage, with upwards of eighty of his fellow-travellers anxiously waiting for their tm'n. This arises, in the first place, from the large quan- tity of luggage which many bring : and, in the second, from the want of system in packing, distinguishing that which is immediately requisite from that which is unnecessary. As passengers will be required to keep pace with the mails in either route, unless they arrange for a fort- night's stay in Egypt, the system of having a larger quan- tity of luggage than is actually necessary, cannot be too much deprecated. The traveller is also apt to mix " duty goods" with per- sonal luggage, in anticipation of their escaping notice. This is a " forlorn hope," and leads invariably to the most rigid scrutiny of every package, thereby causing great delay. If the goods be such as trinkets, Bombay work- boxes, Dacca or Cuttack silver, China and India filhgree packed in cotton, a still greater commotion arises at the custom-house, and we are not quite sure whether the * Mr. Hill is the Southampton agent of the " Peninsular and Oriental Company." 80 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. circumstance does not render the articles liable to seizure and confiscation, under the quarantine laws. The better plan by far, whether the traveller attend the examination of his luggage or not, is to separate all goods liable to duty, and put them in a case or trunk, with an inventory of its contents, and the value of each article separately stated,* and then leave them in charge of Mr. Hill, with instructions to forward them without delav. They can, of course, be examined at once, but we think it unfair to subject others to the inconvenience and loss of time that must consequently ensue. If the plan here recommended be followed, we ventm-e to submit that it would be satisfactory to all parties. A general tariff of East India fabrics will be found in the Appendix ; but it is not generally known that all British manufactures that have been exported, and purchased out of Great Britain, are subject to a duty if re-imported. Being private property, however, they are generally re- leased on petition to the Board of Customs, the petition being accompanied by a solemn declaration made by the owner before a magistrate, that the claim set forth in the petition is true. The reason assigned for this law is, that it protects and promotes English manufacture, by pre- venting a retm'u of goods to the country that have once been exported for sale. Parties who, from necessity or choice, bring servants * Government have the option of accepting your valuation. If they disapprove the estimate of the proprietor, they are empowered to seize the goods, but in that case, must pay ten per cent, advance on your valuation. \(JV.\(iE TO SOUTHAMPTON', 81 from India, have too tVequeutly so indefinite an a^^ree- ment, that disputes and unpleasantnesses in settling with them frequently arise. We, therefore, earnestly recom- mend passengers to endeavour to do without personal ser- vants if possible; but if it be impracticable to dispense with them, we would suggest that the engagement should specify whether services cease on arrival, — if the ser- vants are to be returned to India at the expense of the employer and — whether it shall be via the Cape or overland. The agreement should likewise state the allowance that will be made for board-wages. Sixteen shillings per week is the sum charged at the lodging-houses for this class. Persons arriving from India, particularly families, incur great expense by proceeding, on their arrival, direct to hotels or to furnished lodgings. In most cases they Avould do better by resorting to a boarding-house. There are many suitable establishments of this nature throughout England, where comfortable accommodation is afforded at a moderate charge. A letter of enquiry written on the passage from Alexandria to Malta, and despatched via INIarseilles, would be answered, and wait the writer's arrival at Southampton. 82 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. Parties proceeding to India, wlio have a desire to visit Oporto, Lisbon, Cadiz or Gibraltar, are permitted by the Peninsular and Oriental Company to du so in one of their weekly packets, at the same cost of passage money as if they went direct to Alexandria in a monthly packet. The weekly packets leave Southampton at 3 p. m. on the Thursday, and — Arrive at Oporto on Monday, " Lisbon — Tuesdav, " Cadiz — Thursdav, and at Gibraltar — Friday, At which place the steamer on the Indian line -0011 take them up and convey them to Egypt. The steamers em- ployed on this service are not of equal speed. The traveller must therefore calculate on lia\dng not less than four or more than six days' stay at each place, provided he intend to go forward by the next steamer. Again, should a party desire to remain a fortnight in Egypt, prenous to joining the steamer at Suez, he can be accommodated by the Peninsular and Oriental Company, who will convey him to Alexandria, and cause him to be taken up by the vessel on the Indian side at any later period. The additional cost of a stoppage at any of the inter- mediate places would depend upon the tastes, habits and means of the travellc]' ; it need not be much, and to a party of friends proceeding thus, the journey, at the proper season, would be instructive and delightful. A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT. 83 A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT. Under the present arrangements many passengers, instead of hurrying through Egypt along Avith the mail, will pro- bably prefer spending a fortnight in that interesting coun- try. To those so disposed, the following information may prove acceptable. In a previous page we have pointed out the principal objects of interest in the vicinity of Cairo and Alexandria, which are accessible in the ordinary transit through Egypt. In the event, however, of a prolonged residence in that country, either from necessity or choice, the list of videnda may manifestly be much extended. Supposing the traveller, then, to start from Cairo, after inspecting the pyramids and other sights near that city, he can, by application to an agent on the spot, procure a boat, well supplied with provisions, &c., and proceed a THE N ILL-BOAT. g2 84 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. considerable distance up the Nile. We have stated else- where that there is little besides the Pasha's palace, Pompey^s pillar and Cleopatra's needle, to be seen at and in the neighbourhood of Alexandria, and therefore call the attention of the sojourner in Eg}^t, to the interesting antiquities he will have an opportunity of examining on the borders of the Nile. Should he purpose Umiting his trip to a fortnight, in order to be in time for the packet fi'om Suez or Alexandria, it must be borne in mind that he can only visit a few of the places mentioned below, and must make arrangements accordingly; but in case he should desu'e to extend his travels, we subjoin some notes from the best authorities of the manifold wonders to be seen on the banks of the mighty Nde, and if the reader require even further information, we commend to his perusal the admii'able work on Egypt, by Su' Gardiner Wilkinson. The great pyramid of Sacai'ah contains a small chamber with a few hieroglyphics differing in this respect from all others. The arched tombs (now nearly destroyed) pro^ing the pre-Augustan existence of the masonic arch, is of the time of Psameticus 2nd, about b.c. 604, Mit Raheny, a large colossus of Rameses 2nd, the supposed Sesostris. Mounds and indistinct remains of Memphis. On the light bank are the quarries from a\ Inch a portion of the stones for the pyramids were drawn. In one part, oxen are represented drawing a block placed on a sledge. A little to the south of the modern village is an inchned plane, leading from the quaiTics to the river. Thirty miles farther to the south, at Atfieh, mounds of aplii'oditopolis, but without ruins. • A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT. 85 Left bank, Mse pyramid (Meidoum), difficult of access ou account of the canal. Three miles beyond Feohm, and on the opposite side (riglit bank), remains of crude brick walls, with hierogly- phics on the bricks. Riglit bank, eight miles N. of Meneijeh is Fehnah, the ancient Acoris. Greek Ptolemaic inscription. Tombs cut in the rock with inscriptions. Roman figures in high rehef. Quarries on top of mountain with a tank for water. Right bank, seven miles beyond Mineijeh, is Rohn Ahman, some grottoes and ruins of an old town. Nine miles farther (right bank) Beni Hassan ; remark- ably interesting grottoes of the time of Osortixen (about B.C. 1740), in whose reign it is calculated that Joseph arrived in Egypt. The plans, explanatory of the trades, amusements, domestic arrangements, &c., of the ancient Egyptians, merit particular attention. In the columns of the best grotto, we recognise the Doric Order. In the entablature over the doorway, observe that the ends of rafters are sculptm-ed instead of mutules and tryglyphs. About a mile and a half S. is another grotto, a temple of Pasht, Bubastis, or Diana, the Speos Artemidos (date Thotmer 3rd, 15th century b.c.) The Speos is known by the name of Stable Antar. Near it are deposited cat- mummies. Riglit bank, at Shekh Abadch, are a few remains of 86 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Antinoe, built by Adrian. The principal streets may be traced^ as well as the hippodrome, towards the east, out of the walls. Grottoes in rock, &c. This whole district has been famous for thieves, from the time of Bruee to the present day. Right bank. El'Rasheth, grotto in the mountain, with a statue represented on a sledge. The ruins of Hermopolis, at Ashmonnoyn, have been destroyed. The Pasha's sugar factory at E'Roamoon merits a visit. Left bank. Ibayda, at the corner of the mountain, crude brick walls, and some grottoes, not very remarkable. After Shekh Said, the mountains go off to the E. leav- ing the river. A httle beyond is Til el Amama, to the S. of Avhich are the ruins of an ancient town, of which only the brick -houses remain. To the S. are grottoes in' the mountain, with curious sculpture, and upon the mountain is an alabaster qujiriy. The sculptures represent a king and queen offering and praying to the sun, which shoots forth rays terminating in human hands, one of which gives the emblem of life to the king. Six miles Ijefore Maufaloat, at el Ilarcib, are ruins of an old town in a ravine, in which arc dog and cat mummies. A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT. 87 Near Maabdeh, opposite Maufalouat, are crocodile mummy pits, difficult of access and dangerous. E'Siout, the capital of the said, and standing on the site of Lycopolis merits a visit. The gardens are celebrated. Visit the grottoes in the mountain, if it be only to enjoy the beautiful view, which is, perhaps, unequalled in Egypt. The mummies of the wolf are occasionally found. The remains of the splendid temple of Antaopolis have been sapped and carried away by the stream. A few stones only serve to point out its site at Gau (right bank). Right bank. Shekh Eredi, where a Moslem saint, transformed into the form of a serpent, still forms very wonderful cm'es upon those who can pay. Some small grottoes on the left bank. To the west Loohag, near the corner of the mountain, are remains of Athribi. Inscrip- tion in stone, in a ruined temple. Grottoes in the moim- tain. To the west of this is the white monastery, Deira-bow Sehwoodee. It has very much the appearance of an Egyptian temple, having a cornice and tomb, and is sup- posed to have been founded by the Empress Helena. Like the other Deirs it is inhabited by Christian peasants. Right bank. At Ekhmin, nearly opposite Loohag, are remains of Panopohs. A large mass of stone, contains a Greek inscription of the temple of Pan. Left bank. Menshie, eight miles beyond Ekhmin, remains of a stone quarry. Ptolcmais Hermii. 88 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Lelt bank. Abydus, three hours' ride from Gii-geh, and two hours from BelHaneh. Take donkies at Girgeh and send the boat on to Bellianeh. When last at Abvdus, I was entertained for the night at the ' Deir/ to the north or north-west of the village. The most remarkable monu- ment is what Strabo has described as a ' Memnonium/ a very singular buildings consisting of several parallel arches or arcades, leading, he says, to a tank, now concealed. The arches are not masonic, but cut out of large masses of stone, and it is this cii'cumstance which has, in a great measure, given rise to the error, as to the arch not having existed previous to the Augustan era. The building was begun by Osirien, the father of Sesostris, and finished by his son. To the north of the Memnonium, is the small temple of Osms, built, or at least finished, by Remeses II., and re- markable for having a sanctuary made of alabaster, for the reception of the famous tablet of the kings, Avhich, next to the Rosetta stone, has been of the greatest assistance to the students of hieroglyphics. The NecropoUs has been robbed to form the collections of Salt, Drouetti, and others. Right bank. IIow, Diospolis parva — few remains — vestiges of a temple of late date, and about a mile and a half to the S., of other mounds. Left bank. Dendcra (Tentyris) opposite Genneh. The ])rincipal temple was consecrated to Hathor, the Egyptian Venus, and not to Isis. The most interesting, as well as most ancient sculptures, arc outside at the western ex- tremity, where we see Cleopatra and her son Casasion. KARNAK. 89 The sculptures above are of the time of Augustus, as are those of the lateral walls of the Naos. The Pronaos pre- sents the portraits aud names of Caius, Claudius, and Nero, as well as Tiberius, bv whom it was constructed. The Pylon, leading to the temple, is of the time of Domi- tian and Trajan. The Peripteral temple to the light, is the Typhonium, aud immediately behind the great temple is a small one consecrated to Isis. The Plyon towards the south, is connected mth the latter, and was raised in the reign of Augustus. The walls of the town, and a second wall for the sacred edifices, may be traced, and there are, I believe, some tombs in the moimtain behind the town, that have not been properly explored. Right bank. Quoph, the ancient Coptas — ruins of town and temple — small Roman -Egyptian temple, in the village of El Qalah, towards the N., forming once a part of Coptas. Qoos, Apolinopolis-parva. No more remains left, but a Monolith converted into a tank, and to the north of the town is a well. Thebes, Diospolis magna, on the eastern side, consisting of Karnak and Luxor: the Lybian Suburb on the west bank, consisting of Gormah, Medinet Haboo, the tombs of the Kings, Queens, &c. Karxak. — At least fifteen centuries combined to raise the great temple, the different ages of the various portions of the edifice being distinctly traceable, from the time of Osortireu T., (b. c. 1740) to the Ptolemies. On approach- ing the great western propylon, observe the holes (almost like windows, and h\ some dcscril)ed as such) for fixing the 90 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. flag-masts, as well as the recesses below, in which they were planted. After looking at the great hall of columns, and the obeHsks, &c., notice particularly the granite sanc- tuary, which is a restoration of one destroyed by the Per- sians. It was raised by Alexander, in compliance with a vow of Philhp. On the sandstone wall that encloses and protects this sanctuary, observe (north wall) a very curious and rich offering, in which a Pharoah presents to the temple, obelisks, flag-masts, gold, silver, &c. The sculp- tures deserve particular attention. Those on the outside of the southern wall relate to the conquests of Shishah, who plundered the temple of Jerusalem. The name of the place (Joudamallah) is legible on a cartouche, one of thirty led captives before the god of Thebes. The Avhole north wall is covered with historical sculp- tures, all of which were originally painted, representing the conquests of Osirien, the father of Sesostris. Some little attention is required to see them well. One group is more curious than the rest : the king has caught his ad- versary with the bow-string, and is decapitating him. Notice the triumphal return to Thebes, and remark the Nile (distinguished by crocodiles) with a bridge throA\Ti across it. To the south of the great temple is a tank, then come several immense propyla, part of an avenue of sphinxes, and lastly some remains of a considerable temple which was surrounded by a lake. To the north are other remains, with a handsome pro- pylon of Ptolemaic date, and an avenue of sphinxes. LUXOR. 91 The temple, second in importance at Karnak, is of the Pharoanic period, but approached by a pylon of Ptolemaic date, at the extremity of the great avenue of sphinxes leading to Luxor. On the right of the first or hypoetheral court, notice a sculpture illustrating the manner in which the flag-masts were raised before the temples. Adjoining this temple, and on its west side, is a small temple of Oph, in Avhich travellers sometimes lodge. From Karnak to Luxor, it is easy to trace the Une of spliinxes, which connected the palace of the latter with the temples of the former. Luxor, with the exception of the sanctuary, is entirely Pharoanic, having been founded by Amanoph III., and finished by Remeses II., in the 15th century b.c. The granite sanctuary, Uke that of Karnak, is a restoration, and of the same age. In one of the haUs, approachable from the river side, observe a cui'ious set of sculptures, relative to the birth of the founder of the palace. His mother, the queen, is seated on the stool of accouchement, sm-rounded by midwives and genii. The latter present him the emblem of Life. A Httle farther on, the infant is presented to and caressed by Amunre; and Thoth, the god of letters, is choosing for him his prenomen, ' sun, lord of justice and of truth.' To see the interesting sculptui'cs on the great propylon, it is necessary to visit the palace at an early hour. They relate to the conquests of Remeses II., but much attention is required to make out their details. In the midst of the fortified camp is a lion, the companion of Sesostris in war. 92 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Lybian Suburb. — To see the tombs of tlie king:s, one night should be passed in the valley of Biban el Melook ; but the entrance of one of the excavations affords sufficient accommodation. That of Belzoni is usually preferred. Belzoni's tomb (that of Osirien, whose conquests are de- picted on the north side of the great temple of Karnak), is the most magnificent ; next to that, the tomb of Remeses III. is the most interesting. It is near an angle of the rock, and will be readily distinguished by the re- cesses on either side of the principal shaft. These little cabinets contain some exceedingly curious sculptures or paintings, and it is from one of them that Bruce di*ew his harp scene. The tombs of the Queens are in a separate valley to the west of Mehdenet Habor. At Goorneh (old Goorneh) is the palace of Osirien. In the Aposiet are some remains of a very ancient temple of which a portion is cut in the rock, — an arch (not ma- sonic) very similar to those of Abydus. Between the Aposiet and the Meranonium are many tombs deserWng attention. The Memnonium (now perhaps more properly called the Remeseion, i. e. ' Remeseseion,' the ' house of Remeses') is of the most uniform and elegant of Egyptian structiu-es. Pay particular attention to all the battle scenes, to the immense statue of Remeses II., supposed to have Aveighed ticarly a thousand tons, to the circumstance of the bases of the columns of the hepastyle being made scats— to a very remarkable sculpture at the western extremity of the MEHDENET HABOR. 9.3 hall — to the private apartments which follow — the Pharoah seated in the sacred Persia— the next apartment supposed to be the library — traces of gilding on the doorways, &c. The Colossi in the Plain. — Of these the northern one is the vocal statue of the ancients. It is of Amunoph III., the founder of Luxor, who reigned in the XVth century, B.C. Wilkinson discovered the means of deception : a stone which when struck, produces a sound similar to that described bv Strabo and Pausanias, is still to be found in the lap. The other statue bears the same cartouches, and both are supposed by Wilkinson to have stood at the commencement of a dromio or avenue of the sphinxes running nearly twelve hundi'ed feet towards an indistinct mass of buildings now called Kom el Hattan. ChampoUion and some architects, suppose that they stood before a propylon. Mehdenet Habor.—A temple-palace, a private palace or Harem, and a temple. The Harem is very interesting, but partly destroyed. It consists principally of a pavilion in advance of the palace, and in it are some curious scidp- tui-es, among wluch the king is represented placing chess with his ladies. A ladder is necessary. The great temple-palace is remarkable not only for its architectm-e, but for the sculptures representing the con- quests of Remeses III., (about the Xlllth centm-y, b. c.) These are particularly remarkable in the hypcetheral court, where there is exhibited in the northern side, a magnificent pageant, the coronation of the Pharaoh. The whole ex- terior of the northern side of building is covered with battle scenes. Among the heaps of hands poured out be- 94 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. fore the conqueror are lion's paws. There are also heaps of Phalia. The great lake, for the ceremonies of the dead (the hippodrome of the French savans), will be best distin- guished from the top of the pavahon. There are several other remains, and tombs without number. There is no trace, whatever, of a wall of circumvallation, though the crude brick enclosures of the temples still remain. We add to the above, the observations of other writers upon the subject of some of the most interesting of these wondrous antiquities : — Luxor. — In approaching this temple from the north, the first object is a magnificent propylon, or gateway, which is two hundi-ed feet in length, and the top of it fifty-seven feet above the present level of the soil. In front of the entrance are the two most perfect obelisks in the world, each of a single block of red granite, from the quarries of Elephantine , they are between seven and eight feet square at the base, and above eighty feet high ; many of the hieroglyphical figm'es with which they are covered are an inch and three quarters deep, cut with the greatest precision. Between these obelisks and the propylon are two colossal statues, also of red granite ; though bm'ied in the ground to the chest, they still mea- sure twenty-one and twenty-two feet from thence to the top of their mitres. The attention of the traveller is soon divreted from these masses, to the sculptures which cover KARNAK. 95 the eastern wiug of the north front of the propylon, on which is a very animated description of a remarkable event in the campaigns of Osymandrias or Sesostris. The ruined portico, which is entered from the gateway, is of very large dimensions, from this a double row of seven columns, with lotus capitals, two and thirty feet in cir- cumference, conducts you into a court, one hundred and sixty feet long, and one hundred and forty wide, termi- nating at each side by a row of columns, beyond which is another portico of thirty -two columns, and the adytum, or interior apartments of the building. The temple of Luxor was probably built on the banks of the Nile for the convenience of sailors and wayfaring men ; where, without much loss of time, they might stop, say their prayers, present their offerings, &c. Great and magnificent as it is, it only serves to shew us the way to a much greater, to which it is hardly more in comparison than a kind of porter's lodge ; I mean the splendid ruin of the temple at Karnak. The distance from LiLxor to Karnak is about a mile and a half, or two miles. The whole road was formerly lined with a row of sphinxes on each side. At present these are entirely covered up for about two-thirds of the way, on the end nearest to Luxor. On the latter part of the road, near Karnak, a row of criosphinxes (that is, with a ram's head and a lion's body), still exist on each side of the way. Karnak.— The name of Diospolis is sufficient to entitle us to call the grand temple at Karnak the temple of Jupiter. This temple has twelve principal entrances, each of which is composed of several propyla and colossal gate- 9G THE OVERLAND GUIDE. ways, or moles, besides other buildings attached to them, in themselves larger than most other temples. One of the propyla is entirely of granite adorned with the most finished hieroglyphics. On each side of many of them have been colossal statues of basalt, breccia, and granite ; some sit- ting, some erect, from twenty to thirty feet in height. The body of the temple, which is preceded by a large court, at the sides of which are colonnades of thirty columns in length, and through the middle of which are two rows of columns fifty feet high, consisting, first of a prodigious hall, or portico, the roof of which is sustained by one hundi'ed and thirty-four columns, some of which are twenty-six feet in circumference, and others tliirty- foiu- ; there are four beautiful obehsks marking the entrance by the adytum, near which the monarch is represented as embraced by the arms of Isis. The adytum itself consists of three apartments, entirely of granite. The principal room, which is in the centre, is twenty feet long, sixteen wide, and thirteen feet high. Three blocks of granite from the roof, which is painted with clusters of gilt stars, on a blue ground. Bej'Ond are other porticoes and galleries, which \vK\e been continued to another propylon, at the distance of two thousand feet from that at the western extremity of the temple. It may not be uninteresting to add a few particulars relative to this temple, the largest, perhaps, and certainly one of the most ancient in the world. Two of the porticoes within it appear to have consisted of pillars in the form of human figiu'cs, in the character of BIBAN-OOL-MOOLK. 97 Hermes, that is, the lower })art of the body hidden, and unshapcn, witli his arms folded, and in his hand the in- signia of di\inity; perhaps the real origin of the Grecian Caryatides. Exclusive of these columnar statues, Avhich have been thirtv-eig-ht in number, and the least of them thirty feet high, there are fragments, more or less mutilated, of twenty-tlu'ee other statues, in granite, breccia, and basalt ; seventeen of which are colossal, and have been placed in front of the several entrances. They are in general from twenty-five to thirty feet in height, and executed in the best Egj^tian style. BiBAN-OOL-MoOLK, OR THE ToMBS OF THE KiNGS, is a most dismal-looking spot, a valley of rubbish, without a drop of water or blade of grass. The entrance to the tombs looks out from the rock like the entrance to so many mines; and were it not for the recollections with Avhich it is peopled, and the beautiful remains of ancient art which He hid in the bosom of the mountain, would hardly ever be visited by man or beast. The heat is ex- cessive, from the confined dimensions of the valley, and the reflection of the sun from the rock and sand. The whole vallev is filled with rubbish that has been washed down from the rock or carried out in the making of the tombs with merely a narrow road up the centre. Diodorus Siculus states, on the authority of the Egyp- tian priests, that forty-seven of these tombs were entered in their sacred registers, only seventeen of which remained in the time of Ptolemy Lagus. And in the 180th Olym- H 98 THE OVKRLAND GUIDE. piad, about GO years b.c, when Diodonis Siculus was in Eg^^it, many of these were greatly defaced. Before Mr. Belzoni began his operations in Thebes, only eleven of these tombs were known to the public. From the great success that crowned his exertions, the number of them is nearly double. The general appearance of these tombs is that of a continued shaft, or corridor, cut in the rock, in some places spreading out into large chambers ; in other places small chambers pass off by a door from the shafts, &c. In some places, where the rock is low and disin- tegrated, a broad excavation is formed on the surface, till it reaches a sufficient depth of solid stones, when it narrows, and enters by a door of about six or eight feet wide, and about ten feet high. The passage then proceeds with a gradual descent for about a hundred feet, widening or narrowing, according to the plan or object of the architect, sometimes with side chambers, but more frequently not. The beautiful orna- ment of the globe, with the serpent in its wings, is sculp- tured over the entrance. The ceiling is black, with silver stars, and the \^dtm'e, with outspread wings, holding a ring and a broad feathered sceptre by each of his feet, is frequently repeated on it, with numerous hieroglyphics, which are white or variously coloured. The walls on each side are covered with hieroglyphics, and large sculptured figures of the deities of Egypt, and of the hero for m horn the tomb was excavated. Sometimes both the hierogly- phics and the figures are wrought in intaglio; at other times they are in relief; but throughout the same toud) they are generally all of one kind. The colours are green, blue, red, black, and yellow, and in many instances are as fresh and vivid as if they had not been laid on a month. MEDINET HABOO. 99 Intermixed with the figures, we frequently meet with curious devices, representing tribunals where people are upon their trials, sometimes undergoing punishment ; the preparation of mummies, and people bearing them in pro- cession on their shoulders ; animals tied for sacrifice, and partly cut up; and occasionally the more agreeable pic- tiu'es of entertainments, with music and dancing, and well- dressed people listening to the sound of the harp played by a priest, with his head shaved, and dressed in a loose flowing white robe, shot with red stripes. Two other colossal statues, called also by some the statues of Memnon, are in the plain, about half way be- tween the desert and the river. They are about fifty feet high, and seated each on a pedestal six feet in height, eighteen long, and fourteen broad. The stone of which they are formed is of a reddish grey. These two statues are by the Arabs familiarly called Shamy and Damy. Medinet Haboo. — One outward inclosure, or brick wall, seems to have contained three distinct, though con- nected buildings, to which we may arbitrarily assign the names of the chapel, the palace, and the temple. The principal entrance to the palace from the plain being blocked up, it is only to be approached now by a side doorway from the pronaos of the chapel. Of this building, which may once have been the residence of the sovereigns of Eg}T)t, one tower only is remaining. This was di\'ided into three stories, in each of Avhich are two apartments. The stone pavement of the lower rooms is still perfect, but H 2 loo THE OVERLAND GUIDE. the upper floors and the wooden beams which supported them have entirely disappeared. The interior walls have not such a profusion of sculptures as those without. At each side of one of the windows is an Isis, with the hawk^s wing, kneeling, and wearing the lunar crescent on her head. At another window are four projecting sphinxes ; and in a corner of one of the rooms are two females, with baskets of lotuses on their heads, carrying a plate of cakes to the king, who is sitting; before him stands another female, with the same head-dress, stretching out her arm, while he puts some of the delicacies into his mouth. Ebek, the most northern of all the Theban monuments, is only remarkable because the plan on which it is con- structed is very different from that of all other temples in Egypt. It has a single row of columns in front, and the rest of the building is distributed into a variety of com- paratively small apai'tments. Memnonium. — The term Memnonium is used bv Strabo to designate that part of ancient Thebes, which lies on the western side of the ri^er. The French savans, however, without any sufficient reason, have restricted it to the magni- ficent ruin which we are going to describe. This beau- tiful relic of antiquity looks to the east, and is fronted by a stupendous j)ropylon, of which two hundred and thirty- four feet in length are still remaining. The propylon stands on the edge of the soil; but the area cidtivable, or space for the Dromos behind it, is floored by the solid rock, on which the rest of the temple is erected. The eastern wall is much falkni down, and both ends ai*e greatly dilapidated. Every stone in the propylon api)ears DENDERA. 101 to have been shaken and loosened in its place, as if from the concussion of an earthquake, for no human violence seems adequate to produce such an effect in such an immense mass of building; as that under consideration, A stair enters from each end, by which to ascend to the top of the propylon, from which passages go off in a number of chambers, as in the temples of Phylae Edifore, &c. This colossus measures six feet ten inches over the foot, and sixtv-two or sixtv-three feet round the shoulders. It has been broken off at the waist, and the upper part is laid prostrate on the back; the face is entirely oblite- rated, and next to the wonder excited at the boldness of the sculptor who made it, and the extraordinary powers of those who erected it, the labour and exertions that must have been used for its destruction are most aston- ishing. It could only have been brought about with the help of militaiy engines, and must then have been the work of time. Its fall has carried along with it the whole of the wall of the temple which stood within its reach. It was not without great difficulty and danger that we could climb on its shoulder and neck ; and in going from thence upon its chest, assisted by Arab servants. Dendera. — The centm'ies that this great temple of Venus has seen, have scarcely affected it in any important part ; and have given it no greater appearance of age and ruin, than what serves to render it more venerable and imposing. After seeing innumerable monuments of the same kind throughout the Thebaid, it seemed as if we were now arrived at the highest pitch of architectm-al 103 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. excellence that Avas ever attained on the borders of the Nile. Here we found concentrated the united laboui' of ages, and the last effort of human art and industry in that regular uniform Hne of construction, which had been adopted in the earliest times. After admiring the general effect of the Avhole mass, its elegance, sohdity, correct proportions and graceful outHnes, it was difficult to decide, what particular objects were to be first examined. Whether its sculptures or paintings, typical and orna- mental, the distribution of the interior apai'tments, the details of the capitals and colimins, the mystical meaning of particular representations here seen for the first time ; the Zodiacs,* or the other celestial phenomena, sculptured on the ceilings ; all seemed objects of high interest and importance, all in\dted a nearer and closer inspection. The portico consists of tAventy-four columns in three rows, each a])ove twenty-two feet in circumference, thirty-two high, and covered with hieroglyphics. The peculiar form of the square capital, with a front face of the goddess on each side, particularly attracted our attention. We were at first struck by the singularity of an idea, so foreign to the common notions of Greek architecture : but the eve is soon reconciled to it, and the solemn and mild mono- tony of these faces impresses the spectator with a silent reverential awe, a willing conviction of the immediate presence of the deity of the place in her most gracious character: and. indeed, the Greeks, in their Caryatides, seem in some degree to have added their sanction to the principle. The sckos, or the interior of the temple, consists of * The principal Zodiac has since been removed. DENDEUA. 103 several apartments, all the walls and ceilings of wliich are in the same way covered with religious and astronomical representations. The roofs are like the rest in Egypt, flat ; the oblong masses of stone resting on the side walls ; and when the distance of these is too great, one or two rows of the columns are carried down the middle of the apartment, by which the roof is supported. The capitals of these columns are very richly ornamented with the budding lotus, the stalks of which being carried down some way below the capital, give the shaft the appear- ance of being fluted, or rather scolloped. The following gleaned from other sources will, perhaps, be also acceptable as a guide to the sight -seer. No person ought to leave Egypt without visiting Asso- wan and Philoe, particidarly if he go up as high as Thebes, for he can form no coiTect judgment of Eg\^t and her wonderful and gigantic works, unless he sees the temples and shrubberies at Esireh Fdjou, Koon, Ombes, Assowau, and Pliiloe, as avcU as those in the Thebaid and at Tent\Ta. By traversing Egj^t from Alexandi-ia to Assowan, you can with ease inspect all those wonderful remains of labor and art, unequalled in the world for extent or size as architectural works, and which, to the mind of the observer, place beyond doubt the wealth, the power, the science, and great population of ancient Egypt. To attempt to convey to a person who has not seen struc- tm-es of the kind any idea of Avhat these ruins are, is out of the question. In the granite quarries at Assowan, fi'om whence these immense monuments were taken, are two unfinished sarcophagi and an obelisk cut and formed, but still attached to the native rock. The obelisk is shaped 104 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. out and cut round on all sides except its under one, a bed which still attaches it to the rock. It measures 76 feet in length, and 12 feet broad, and in depth to the drift sand in which it has imbedded itself six feet thick. The marks of the workman's chisel and wedge, with which instruments it appears these immense masses have been disjoined from the native rock, are as fresh as if they had been apphed but yesterday. It is inconceivable how such entire masses could have been taken from their bed to the Nile, a dis- tance of at least a mile and a half, and from thence trans- ported to where we see them still standing, seventy, eighty and ninety feet in height, and eight, ten and twelve feet square at the base as at Luxor, Karnak, Helipolis, Frorun, and at Alexandria, covered with deeply engraved figures and hieroglyphics, in some places still bearing a glossy and fresh pohsh. In the island of Philoe there are some beautiful and extensive remains of Egyptian, as also one of Grecian, architecture. Leaving Luxor in the night of the third of May, M'e arrived at Khenneh the following day, and after visiting the temple of Hentyra or of Isis on the opposite bank of the Nile, and remaining an hour or two at Khenneh, we left that place for Cairo, where we arrived on the sixteenth of the same month. Passing through the palm-tree grove which covers the high ridge, or mound, formed by the ruins of the ancient Memphis, the traveller approaches a small open circular plain, which is supposed to have been the Archcrusian Lake of the City ; on the south side of this, the lai-ge colossal statue of Sesostris is to be seen. It was discovered and laid open by Mr. Sloan and M. Coriglier, and is the most perfect statue in Egypt, and the most beautifully formed. It lies with its tace downwards. It is broken oft' THE NILE, 105 below the ancle, and the entii'e length of tlie block now remainino; is thirtv-six feet six inches. The ruins of the edifice before which it had stood, are apparent under the rubbish which surrounds the place. The ancient Necro- pohs of Paccachia ; or as some writers suppose, of the city of Memphis, extends for miles round the pyramids. Indeed, from the pyramids of Dashores to those of Cheops and Copprieves, is one continued biu'jdng-ground. The pyramids of Dashores, as well as those of Saccachara, and the excavations and tombs in the rocks may be inspected in one day. We landed at Goza, and took donkeys, and passed the day in visiting the large pyramids. The fol- loA\ing morning we passed the island of Rhode, visited the Nilometer, and after saiHng down about half a mile, and passing the aqueducts of Lubuddia, about one-huncked yards, landed again on the island, and entered the gardens of Ibrahim Pasha. Another writer gives the following outline of the inte- resting sights to be seen on the Nile. On the eastern bank, eight miles to the south of Cairo, quarries of Maasara, from which the stone used for part of the casing of the pyramids was taken. Some hieroglyphic tablets, in one of which oxen are represented drawing a stone placed on a sledge. A little beyond the modern village is an inclined road, which leads from the quarries to the river. Thirty miles further to tlie south, on the same bank, is Atfeeh, mounds of Aphroditopolis, no ruins. False pyramid on opposite l)ank, three miles beyond El Feshu, and on eastern bank, remains of crude brick, the Malls of an ancient village, called El Hecbee and some hieroglyphics. 106 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. From Beuisooef is the road to the Fyoom, which wlien the Nile is Ioav, may be visited conveniently. A brick pwamid at Illahoon, another at El Howara, and vestiges of the labyrinth, obelisk at Biggig, ruins on and near the lake Moeris, and at Qasr Kharoon. From Aboogirgeh is the shortest road to Bahnasa (Oxyriuchus) mounds, no ruins, Gebel e Tayr, north-end, grotto or rock temple, called Babyn, convent further to the south, eight miles below Minyeh is Tehneh (Acoris) on eastern bank, a Greek Ptolemaic inscription on the face of the cliff, tombs hewn in the rock, with small inscriptions at the doors, Roman figures in high relief, on the upper part of the rock, some hieroglyphic tablets, quarries on the top of the mountain, a tank, &c. Same (eastern bank) seven miles above Minyeh, Komah- mar, some grottoes, and ruins of an old town, nine miles farther (eastern bank), Beni Hassan, very fine grottoes, Avith curious paintings, and about a mile and a half farther, a grotto, or rock temple, of Pasht (Bubastis, or Diana) the Speos Artemidos, cat mummies in the ravine. Antinoe, now Shekh Abadeh, few remains of the town, a theatre, the principal streets, baths, &c., outside the town, on the east is the hippodrome. The grottoes in the mountain are misculptured, and have some Christian inscriptions. A little to the north of Antinoe arc the remains, apparently, of Besa, scarcely worthy of a visit. At El Bersheh, a grotto on the mountain, in which a colossus is represented on a sledge. At Oshmoonayn (western l)auk) no remains of liermopolis Magna. At Gebel Toona, a mountain, skirting the desert to the west THE NILE. 107 are mummy pits, a tablet of hieroglyphics, and statues in high relief. At Mellawcc, and at Taraoof Tanis, superior mounds, but no ruins. At Shayda, at corner of moun- tains, on eastern bank, crude brick walls, and some grottoes. At Shekh Said, the mountains recede to the eastward, leaving the river, and a little beyond is the village of Tel el Armarnar, to the north of which are the remains of a small town, and to the south the ruins of a city, which I suppose to be Alabastron: all the stone buildings have been quite destroyed, but some of the brick houses remain, near the crude brick towers of the temple are the largest houses. To the east are several fine grottoes in the face of the mountain, with curious sculptures, and on the summit of it is an ancient alabaster quarry. Six miles below Maufaloot, at el Haryib ruins of an old town, in a ravine of the Gebel Aboolfaydee, numerous dog and cat mum- mies, near El Maabdeh, opposite Maufaloot, crocodile mummies in chambers of great extent in the mountain. At E'Sioot (Lycopolis), the capital of Upper Egypt, grottoes, wolf mummies ; the modern cemetery is prettily laid out. Gow (Antocpolis) a few stones of the temple, close to the river, some grottoes at the corner of the mountain, to the north, below Gow, but not containing good sculpture. Shekh Ilereedee, small grottoes, Roman statue at the base of the mountain, cut out of a piece of a rock. The snake of Shekh Ilereedee is still supposed to perform cures. To the west of Soohag, near the corner of mountaiu.s, old town of Athribcs, a Greek inscription in the ruined 108 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. temple, grottoes in the mountain ; and to the north is the white monastery, or Da}T Amba Shuoodec, nearly oppo- site Soohag is E'Khmim (Panopolis) Greek inscription of the temple of Pan, and some remains of other stone buildings. Mensheeh (Ptolemais Hermii), western bank, eight miles above E'Khmim, remains of a stone quay. From Girgeh go to Abydos, three hours ride, and send on the boat to Bellianeh, returning to it in the evening, two hours ride, or coming down the river, stop at Bellianeh, and send on the boat to Girgeh. At Abydos two temples and many tombs. How (Diospolis parva) has very few remains of Ptole- maic or Roman time. In mounds at the ridge of the desert, a mile and a half south of How, some tombs, one of Dionysius, son of Ptolemy, has some sculpture. Qasr e Syad (Chenoboscion), remains of a quay; about one mile beyond the eastern mouth of the canal of this village, are some very ancient grottoes, with kings' names. Dendera (Teutvris) opposite Qeneli, two temples, inscrip- tions, zodiac, &c. Qeneh is famous for its manufacture of porous jars; from it, roads lead to Kossa^T on the Red sea. Qoft (Coptos), ruins of the old town, and of a temple, a Chi'istiau church, canals, &c., at the village of el Qala, to the north is a small Roman Egyptian temple. Qoos (Appollinopolis parva), no more ruins left, at a well on the north of the town is a Ptolemaic monolith, with hieroglyphics, converted into a tank, and a few stone THE NILE. 109 remains of early time in the plain to the west, near a Shekh's tomb. Thebes (Diospolis magna), on the eastern bank, Karnac and Lugsor, on the west the tombs of the kings, private tombs, several temples, colossi of the plain, &c. Erment (Hermonthis), west bank, temple and early Christian chnrch. Tuot, or E'Selemech (Tuphium), on east- ern bank, Ptolemy temple, much mined, and concealed by the hovels of the peasants. Gebelann, i. e. " the two hills," a small ancient town in ruins, and grottoes not worthy of a visit. At Tofnees and Assfoon, mounds of ancient towns, no ruins. Esneh (LatopoHs), fine portico, zodiac and quay. At Edayr, three miles to the north of Esneh, remains of a small temple of the Ptolemies and Csesars, lately de- stroyed. Thirteen miles from Esneh, near el Qenan, ruins of a quay ; on Avest bank and three miles farther, a small stone pyramid, opposite the quay, is the junction of the limestone and sandstone. Four miles beyond, on eastern bank, is el Kab (Eilethyas), ruins of a very ancient town, the temples lately destroyed, curious grottoes in the mountain, and a short distance up the valley are three small temples. In the bed of the ra\ine are ponds en- crusted with natron. Edfoo (ApoUinopoKs magna) two temples. Eleven miles above Edfoo, and on the eastern bank, remains of an old town, on face of hill, fortified with towers of Arab construc- tion. Silsilis (now Hagar Silsili), quarries of sandstone, used for building the temples of Upper Egypt, tablets and grottoes. Komombo (Ombos), two temples, ancient stone 110 THE OVERLAND OUIDE. gateway, in a crude brick wall on the eastern side of the enclosure of the temples, houses burnt. At E'Sooan (Syene), ruins of a small temple of Koman date, some columns, Saracen wall, and Cufic tombstones, granite quarries, in one of which is a broken obelisk, Latin inscription of Caracalla near another quarry, road to Philse, and wall, numerous hieroglypliic tablets on the rocks. Island of Elephantine, opposite the projecting rocks of E'Sooan is the Nilometer, which is a staircase, with Greek inscriptions relating to the rise of the Nile. Granite gate- way, bearing the name of Alexander, the son of Alexander the Great. At the northern end of the cataract in the island of Sehayl, few vestiges of a temple, hieroglyphic tablets on the rocks. Go from E'Sooan to Sehayl in a boat, and ride to Philae. At Philse, temples and ruins. Islands of Biggeh, opposite Philse, to the west, ruined temple, tablets, &c., &c. NUBIA. Dabode (Parembole), temple, west bank. Kcrdassy, ruins and quarries. Tafa (Taphis), two small ruins, and stone enclosures. Kalabshce (Talmis), large temple, quar- ries, and on hill behind it, to the northward, a small l)ut interesting temple, called Bayt el Wellee, cut in the rock. Dandoor, tcm])le. Gerf Hossayn (Tutzis), temple, cut in the rock, of the time of llamcses II. NUBIA. Ill Dakkeh (Pselcis), temple of I'tolemaic and Roman date. It has also the names of two Ethiopian princes^ Ergamiin, or Ergamcnes (mentioned by Diodorus iii. 6, as a conteni- poi'ary of Ptolemy Philadelphns) and Ataramun, many Greek inscriptions. Opposite Dakkeh^ ruins of Contra Pselcisj or of Metacompso. Corte (Corti), few remains. Maharraka, or Oofideena, ruins of Hierasj^camenon, style bad, and all of late date. Isis is represented under the fig-tree. Taboaa, temple of the time of Rameses II., with avenue of sphinxes; the adytum is cut in the rock, the rest built. Hassain, or Amada, a temple of Thothmes, ancient, nearly opposite to it in Dayr or Derr, on east bank, the capital of Nubia, which has a temple cut in the rock, of the time of Rame- ses II. Ibreem (Primis parva), part of the ancient wall on south side of town, remains of a stone building amidst the houses, some small grottoes below the town near the river. Aboosimbel, two temples cut in the rock, the finest Egyp- tian monuments out of Thebes; they Jire of the time of Rameses II. At Ferayg, nearly opposite, on east bank, a small temple in the rock. Farras, on west bank, few remains, grottoes with Coptic inscriptions, some distance from the river. Wadee Alfeh, remains of three buildings on west bank, fine view of the second cataract from a rock on the same bank, a short walk to the south of Wadee llalfeh. A day and a half beyond Wadee Halfeh are the two small temples of Samneh and the third cataract. 112 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. The distances from the Mediterranean to the second cataract are as follow: — From Rosetta to Cairo . . . about 110 miles. Cairo „ Benisoef . . . 83 Benisoef „ Minyeh . . . 85 Minyeh „ E'Sivot .... 106 E'Sivot „ Girgeh . . . 97 Girgeh „ Qeneh .... 79 Qeneh „ Thebes . . . 49 Thebes „ Esneh .... 38 Esneh „ Esooan . . . 100 Esooan „ Wadee Halfeh from Rosetta to Wadee Halfeh : 219 Tota] 960 miles. It may be interesting to the sportsman to know that, in the course of his river trip, he will occasionally find " food for powder." Game is by no means abundant, but here and there a random shot may be had at a gazelle ; covies of partridges have been seen; rock-pigeons are numerous ; and the rifle may afford some sport in the land of crocodiles. The gazelle, ibex, kebsh (or wild sheep), hare, fox, jackal, wolf, and hyoena, are still found in the valley of the Nile, or in the desert. The " kebsh" frequents the eastern desert, principally in the ranges of primitive mountains, which, commencing about latitude 28° 40' at the back of the limestone hills of the valley of the Nile, extend thence into Ethiopia and Abyssinia. NUBIA. 113 Tlie Egyptian hare is a native of the valley of the Nile, as well as the two deserts. It is remarkable for the length of its ears, which the Egyptians have not failed to indicate in their scnlptnres ; but it is much smaller than those of Europe. The intelligent Denon has made a just remark on the comparative size of animals common to Egypt and Europe, that the former are always smaller than our own species, and this is exemplified by none more strongly than the hare and wolf. In enumerating the wild beasts of the desert, it may not be irrelevant to observe, that the hyaena and wolf are seldom met with in unfrequented districts, or any great distance from the Nile, where they would suffer from want of food, and are therefore principally confined to the mountains lying a few miles from the edge of the culti- vated land. The wolf is very rarely seen on the coast of the Red Sea, and few even of the watering-places of the interior of the desert are infested by it, or the hyaena. The hippopotamus was always rare in Lower Egypt, but in Upper Ethiopia this amphibious animal is common in the Nile. The crocodile, formerly an inhabitant of Lower Egypt and the Delta, now limits the extent of its visits northward to the districts about Inanfaloot. Ill THE OVERLAND GUIDE. VIGO, OPORTO, LISBON AND CADIZ. For the information of such travellers who purpose vary- ing their route to India by A-isiting these ports, by the Peninsular and Oriental Company's weekly packets, we annex short sketches of each place, and the most inter- esting of the sights to be seen there. England to Gibraltar, by the Peninsular Steamers, calling at Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon and Cadiz. — These steamers start, as abeady mentioned, from Southampton every Thirrsday afternoon. They proceed in the first instance to Vigo, to land the mails for that part of Spain, affording to the traveller a view of the magnificent scenery of Vigo Bay and the Bayona Islands. Thence the steamer proceeds close along the coast, which presents a splendid panoramic view of "mount and dale,'' with numerous to^Tis and villages interspersed, until she arrives off Oporto, where she stops to land mails and passengers, but does not enter the port. The passengers, however, "s\ill have a good Aiew of the Fortress of San Joa da Foz, the Convent of the Sien-a at ViUa Nova, &c., so celebrated in the war between Don Pedro and Don Miguel; also the City of Oporto, which looks very picturesque from the sea. Leaving Oporto, she holds her course on for Lisbon, and passing the Burlings Rocks, and Rock of Lisbon, vriW enter the Tagus generally on the foin-th day fi'om leaAing South- ampton. Lisbon, ^c. — The view of Lisbon on entering the Tagus is beautiful beyond description. The steamer usually re- mains here a dav, before starting again on her passage CADIZ, SEVILLE, &C. 115 southward for Cadiz and Gibraltar, and this will enable travellers to take a cursory view of the Lusitanian capital, but it is recommended that they should, if time permits, stop a week here, proceeding to Cadiz or Gibraltar by the steamer of the following week. There are very good hotels noAv at Lisbon, and the town is greatly improved in cleanliness, no longer deserving the character for filth, &c. bestowed upon it by Lord BjTon and others. Among the various interesting excursions which may be made in the neighbourhood of Lisbon, of course the spot where " Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes In variegated maze of mount and glen," will not be forgotten, and will amply repay the trouble of a visit. From Lisbon to Cadiz the passage is made in ordinary circumstances in about twenty-six to thirty hours, and from Cadiz to Gibraltar in about eight hours. Cadiz, Seville, ^c. — The steamer remains at Cadiz only from three to four hours; but even this will enable the passenger to see the principal part of the town, which is exceedingly clean and handsome; and its appearance in approaching the bay of Cadiz singularly beautifid and striking. If the traveller can afford to stop for the next weekly steamer, he may make an excursion to Seville, be- tAveen which and Cadiz steamers run almost daily. Xerez de la Frontera, and Puerto de Santa Maria, with the ex- tensive Bodejas of the wine merchants, are also well worthy of a visit. 1 f^ APPENDIX (A). The annexed plans of the steamers, and references therein, shew the cahlns and their capabilities; nevertheless, any per- son who feels disposed to incur the expense, can, under agree- ment with the " Peninsular and Oriental Company," have the whole of the best cabin the vessel affords entirely to himself. As a guide to the cost of a berth, or cabin, it is only neces- sary to mention the rates at which passengers can be accom- modated, according to the berth or cabin they occupy. From Southampton. berth. cabin. To Alexandria only, lady or gentleman - - £46 10s.— £69 5s. to £153 From Southampton. To Ceylon, for a lady - - £135-£213 to £233 Madras, ditto - - £143 -£223 to £243 Calcutta, ditto - - £153— £233 to £253 From Southampton. To Ceylon, for a gentleman - £128— £203 to £233 Madras, ditto - £133-£213 to £243 Calcutta, ditto - £143-£223 to £i53 DOUBLE CABINS. From Southampton. To Ceylon (for two persons) - - - £326 to £356 Madras £336 to £356 Calcutta £356 to £406 The above charges include every expense, except hotel ex- penses in Egypt, and wines, beer, and spirits, while passing between Alexandria and Suez. (See page 26.) For an estimate of the expense of proceeding from Suez to Bombay, the reader is referred to the East India Company's Regulations, page 39; see also James Barber and Co.'s circular. 118 APPENDIX. TARIFF OF DUTIES WHICH ARE LEVIED ON THE IMPORTATION OF THE FOLLOWING ARTICLES. Notwithstanding the advice already given in tliis little volume, we repeat that passengers would always save them- selves much trouble, and, by facilitating the examination of lua-o-ao-e, their fellow-travellers fjreat delav, if they would take the precaution to pack goods liable to duty in a separate case, marked " duty goods," and leave it in charge of Mr. Hill, the " Peninsular and Oriental Company's" custom-house agent at Southampton, who always goes on board the steamer on its arrival, and who will punctually forward it as directed. They should, at the same time, deliver to Mr. Hill a list of the contents and the value of each article, bearing in mind that duty is chargeable on the value of the article in England, without re- ference to its cost price, and that, provided the revenue officer does not approve of the declared value made by the owner of the goods, he can seize the same, in which case, the declared value, with an additional ten per cent., is paid to the owner. As a general guide, it is recommended that the cost price be o-iven to Mr. Hill, and that he be left to estimate the duty, his great experience qualifying him to do so. Cotton must not be used for packing goods of any descrip- tion by the overland route ; it occasions great difficulty, and subjects them to seizure, under the quarantine laws. APPENDIX. 119 Ad valorem Duty. £ s. d. Muslins, embroidered - - - - per cent. 20 Bombay Manufacture, cases or boxes, of similar desscription - - . - >» •20 Brocade, of gold and silver - » 20 Wool, manufactured - , - »> 20 Ivory Manufactures, or Toitoise Shell and Fur- niture . - . _ _ „ 20 Condiments, Curry, &c. „ 20 Grass-Cloth . - - - ,, 15 Manufactured Skins - - - „ 10 Shawls, Cachmere - . - „ 7 10 Muslin, plain - - . - „ 5 Skins, Tiger, dressed - - - „ 5 Feathers, Ostrich - . - per ib. 1 10 „ undressed - - - „ 1 Paddy-Bird . _ . - „ 1 If several are put together, and can be called manufactured, on value - - per cent. 20 Cigars . - - - - - per Ib. 9 Snuff ------ >> 6 Silver Is. 6d. per oz., and on value per cent. 10 Sweetmeats _ _ - - Id. per lb. i to 6 Pickles - per gal. 0. 1 6 APPENDIX (B). £. s. d. 5 15 1 ^^^ There is an addition of 5 per cent, on these duties, except on cordials and spirits. Agates or Cornelians, not set - per cent. >> » ^^t " ~ >> Books, of editions printed prior to 1801 the cwt. ,, ,, „ in or since 1801, in Fo- reign living languages - - - ,, 2 10 „ in the dead languages or in the English language, printed out of England in or since 1801 „ 5 (N.B. Pirated editions of English works, of which the copijright exists in England, are totally prohibited.) ,, English, printed in England (unless declared that no excise drawback was received on ex- portation) - ... - per lb. 3 Cameos ------ per cent. 20 China or Porcelain, plain or white - ,, 15 ,, „ painted or gilt - „ 20 Cigars (under 3 lbs. only allowed in a passenger's baggage) the lb. 9 {N.B. If a greater quantity, a declaration required that they are for private use and a petition to customs for permission to import) APPENDIX. 121 £. s. d. Clocks (must have maker's name on face and on works) per cent. 10 Watches, (ditto ditto) „ 10 Cordials and Liqueurs (for tlie bottles, see Wine) per gal. 1 10 4 Cotton, articles made up of - - - per cent. 20 Eau de Cologne, in flasks - - the flask 10 (N.B. If in other than ordinary flasks, 305. 4id. the gal. and the bottle-duty.) Embroidery and Needlework Flower Roots - - - - Flowers, Artificisil, not of silk Furniture _ - - - Frames, for pictures, &c. Furs and Skins dressed, made up „ „ in pieces, not made up Glass, flint or cut - - - - „ and further, the excise duty Jewellery - - - , . Japanned or Lacquered Ware - Maps or Charts, plain or coloured, each map or part thereof Magna Gr^cia Ware, or ancient earthen vases per cent. Medals, not of gold or silver - - „ Models, of cork or wood - - - ,, Minerals, specimens of, above 14 lbs. each „ Musical In s'iruments - - - - „ Mock Pearls ----- ^^ Marble, manufactured ... the cwt. Mosaic Work, and Sculptured Stone the ton „ small ornaments for jewellery per cent. 20 per cent. 20 5 ,, 25 20 „ 10 20 „ 10 30 - the cwt. 7 per cent. 10 >> 15 5 5 5 5 15 20 3 10 £. s. d. 1 3 1 1 10 5 4 10 122 APPENDIX. P HINTS and Drawings, plain or coloured, single each ,, „ bound or sewn the dozen Pictures ------ each „ and further - - the square foot „ being 200 square feet and upwards each 10 Paintings on Glass - - . per cent. ,, and further, the excise duty the superficial foot Plate, of gold or silver, gilt or ungilt per cent. ,, also the stamp-duty. If intended for sale, it must be assayed, under the penalties and forfeiture regulating the standard for plate in England ----- per oz. 1 6 Seeds, garden . - . - - the lb. 1 Silk, Millinery, turbans or caps - each 15 „ „ hats or bonnets - - ,,150 „ „ dresses - - - - ,, 2 10 ,, or (and at the option of the officers) percent. 40 Silk Hangings, and otRer manufactures of silk „ 30 Toys „ 10 Velvet, plain the lb. 1 2 „ figured ... - ,,176 Wine and Spirits, viz.: — Wine, in casks, all except Cape the gall. 5 6 „ in bottles, six to the gallon „ 5 6 and further, on the bottles the cwt. Oil (^N^B. This is about 2s. 4(1. the dozen on, Champagne bottles and Is. Qd. on claret and other bottles.) Spirits, in casks, must not be imported under twenty gallons - _ - the gal. 1 2 10 „ in bottles, the additional duty for the bottles, as wine bottles. APPENDIX. 123 THE FOLLOWING MAY BE IMPORTED FREE OF DUTY. Bullion, Coins, and Medals of gold or silver, and battered PLATE. Diamonds. Live Creatures, and other specimens illustrative of Natural History. Pictures, Sketches, and Drawings, on a declaration by the proprietor (being a British subject), that they are of his or her performance and not intended for sale. Plants and Trees, alive. Specimens of Minerals, Fossils or Ores, of which each specimen does not exceed 14 lbs. weight. APPENDIX (C). STEAM PASSAGE BETWEEN BOMBAY AND SCINDE. MARINE DEPARTMENT. The Honourable the Governor in Council is pleased to notify, that the fare of passengers, proceeding between Bombay and Scinde on the Government steamers, is fixed at the fol- lowing rates, viz. : — A lady or gentleman .... Rs. 100 A child under ten years ... ,,50 „ „ one year .... Free. 2nd. Passengers are required to pay the fare in advance, when proceeding from Bombay, to the Master Attendant, and must produce the certificate of this officer, that the fare has been pair], before they can be admitted on board. When pro- ceeding from the out-port, payment must be made to the com- mander at the time of embarkation, or such security given for payment on arrival in Bombay, as the commander may con- sider satisfactory. 3rd. Each passenger accommodated at the commander's table is allowed to take two servants, finding their own pro- visions, and such reasonable quantity of baggnge as the com- mander may consider proper, with reference to the number embarked and the state of the vessel. 4th. This notification applies to all passengers, with the ex- APPENDIX. 125 ccption of tlie officers of the army and navy, and of their families, for whom distinct rules have been established. By order of the Hon. the Governor in Council, P. M. MELVILL, Lieut.-Col., Secretary to Government. Bombay Castle, 9th July, 1843. MARINE DEPARTMENT. Bombay Castle, 6th July, 1843. The Right Hon. the Governor in Council is pleased to direct that the passage money of the officers and their families, pro- ceeding on the Government steam vessels between Bombay and Scinde, be paid and recovered under the following rules, which are to take effect from the 1st of August next. 1. The commander will maintain a suitable table for his passengers, and will receive from Government for each pas- senger, lady or gentleman, the sum of rupees 48, and for each child above one and under ten years of age, rupees 24, childien under one year will be taken free. 2. The commander's abstract of passage money due to him on the above account, will be payable at the Presidency pay- office only. The abstract for the outward voyage may be paid in advance or in arrear, at the commander's option ; for the inward voyage in arrear only, and the latter abstract must be preferred within two days of the arrival of the vessel in Bom- bay, or the commander will be himself responsible for any loss that may in consequence follow. 3. The commander can claim the fare above authorized for such passengers only as appear on the quarter-raaster-general's list at the Presidency, or are admitted on board by order of the commanding officer through the senior naval officer on the 12G APPENDIX. station at Kurrachee, or on the coast of Scinde. These lists and orders, or certified copies, are to be attached to the abstracts of passage money, and no claim will be admitted with- out such vouchers. 4. For the guidance of the paymaster in making the requi- site recoveries, the fare to be regarded as divided into two parts, viz. — Messino- allowance, two-thirds or . . Rs. 32 Wine allowance, one-third or ... „ 1600 Total Rs. 48 5. When officers are entitled, under the existing regulations of the service, to a free passage, they will be liable to the charge for wine allowance, or 16 rupees only, in all other cases the full fare of 48 rupees must be made good. Ladies and chil- dren will be charged always with the full fare of 48 rupees and 24 rupees respectively. 6. For the outward voyage, all payments on account of passage money must be made to the paymaster in advance. The quarter-master-general will require the production of a certificate from the paymaster, that the authorized charge has been paid before he admits any name upon his list. When the list is made up, the quarter-master-general will transmit it to the superintendent of the Indian navy, and upon this list the commander's abstract will be discharged. 7. For the inward voyage, payments must necessarily be made in arrear. The government confidently expects tliat all officers will be careful to liquidate, witliout loss of time, what- ever may be due from them, and the paymaster will report to Government the names of all officers wlio have failed to do so within a reasonable time, when measures will be taken to ensure the recovery, and at the same time to mark the displea- sure of the Government. APPENDIX. 127 8. The paymaster is authorized to deduct vviiatever may be due on account of passage money from any officer's abstract ; he is expected to use every possible exertion to recover such debts on account of the Government, but he will not be held personally responsible, as in the case of his ordinary disburse- ments. 9. The fare to Mandavee in Cutch, or to Porebunder on the coast of Kattiwar, is fixed at 30 rupees, 10 rupees being the wine, and 20 rupees the messing allowance. By order of the Hon. the Governor in Council, P. M. MELVILL, Lieut.-Col., Secretary to Government. PASSAGE BETWEEN SURAT AND BOMBAY. RULES AND REGULATIONS FOR PASSAGE IN THE STEAMER "SIR JAMES CARNAC." 1st Class Cabin. — A lady or gentleman is rupees 75 per each allowed to carry 75 cubic feet of baggage. A child under ten years and above five, is rupees 30, with 30 cubic feet of bago;ao:e. A child above one and under four years of age, is rupees 15, with 15 cubic feet of baggage. Natives, 1st Class. — A lady or gentleman is rupees 50, with 50 cubic feet of baggage. A child under ten and above five years of age is rupees 25, with 25 cubic feet of baggage. A child under five and above one year of age is rupees 12, with 12 cubic feet of baggage. 2nd Class Cabin. — A European or Native is rupees 30, with 30 cubic feet of baggage. 128 APPENDIX. A child under ten and above five years of age Is rupees 15, with 15 cubic feet of baggage. A child above one and under five years of age is rupees 7, with 7 cubic feet of baggage. 3rd Class, or 2nd Deck. — A European or Native is rupees 15, with 15 cubic feet of baggage. A child under ten and above five years of age is rupees 7, with 7 cubic feet of baggage. A child under five and above one year of age is rupees 4, with 4 cubic feet of baggage. 4th Class.^ — Or forward deck to keep before the main-mast, is rupees 5, with 10 cubic feet of baggage. A child under ten and above five years of age is rupees 2^, with 24 cubic feet of baggage. A child under five and above one year of age is rupee 1, with 1 cubic foot of baggage. All under one year, free. First Class passengers only will have their mess found on board 8t the Commander's table. AH others to provide themselves. Extra baggage will be charged at the rate of 8 annas per cubic foot. All treasure to be charged | per cent. All small parcels two rupees each. Freight of a palanquin is rupees 20. Any parties wishing to charter the steamer for a long or short time, to make an arrangement with the manager. All passage-money to be paid at the manager's office prior to the shipping order being granted. Passengers losing their passage will be considered to have forfeited their passage money. JEEJEEBHOY DADABHOY, SONS & Co , Managing Directors. APPENDIX (D). DISTANCES FROM CALCUTTA. British Miles. Adoni, s.w. - 1030 Agra, w.N.w. - 796 Ajmere, w.n.w. - 1035 Allahabad, w.n.w. - 498 Allyghur Almorah - 816 - 896 Amedabad, w. - - 1219 Amednuggur, w. - 1033 Anjengo, s.w. - Arracan, s.e. - 1577 - 551 Arcot, s.w. - 1085 Ava, E. - 1150 Aurungabad, w. - 963 Azimghur - 475 Backerguuge Bahar, n.w. - 183 - 297 Baitool - 789 Balasore, s.w. - - 145 Bancoorah - 101 Banda - 613 Bangalore Bauleah - 1161 - 145 Bareilly, w.n.w. Barrackpore - 782 16 Basseen, w. - 221 Beder, w.n.w. - 980 Bednore, n.w. - 1290 Beerbboom, n.w. - 127 Bellary Benares, w.n.w. - 1090 - 428 Bhooj Bijnore - 1324 - 905 Bisnagur, s.w. - 1120 Broach, w. - 1228 British MUes. Boglepore, n.n.w. 268 Bombay, w. 1185 Bhopal, w. 848 Burdwan 75 Buxar, n.w. 446 Cabul, n.w. 1815 Calberga, w.s.w. 1018 Calingapatam, s.w. 480 Calpee, w.n.w. 657 Cambay, w. 1253 Candahar, n.w. 2047 Canoge, w.n.w. 824 Cashmere (capital of), N.w. 1564 Cuttack, s.w. 251 Cawnpore, w.n.w. 628 Chatterpour, w.n.w. 686 Chettor, w.n.w. 1079 Chicacole, s.w. 498 Chittagong, e. - 342 Chittledroog 1175 Chunar, w.n.w. 433 Cochin 1441 Comorin Cape, s.w. - 1770 Corah, w.n.w. - 655 Cuddapah 1007 Dacca, n.e. 187 Dharwhar 299 Deesa 1300 Delhi, N.w. 900 Dinagepore, n. - 259 Dinapore, n.w. - 376 EUichpour, w. - 796 Ellore, s.w. 748 K 130 APPENDIX. British Miles, i British Miles. Etawab, w.n.w. - 719 Napaul, N.N.W. - 560 Ferozepore - 1161 Narwah, w.n.w. - 817 Futtygliur, n.w. - 711 Nusseerabad - 1018 Futtypore - 585 Ootacamund - 1342 Ganjam, s.w. - 382 Ongole, s.w. - 873 Ghazeepore, n.w. - 431 Oude, N.w. - 562 Goa, w.s.w. • 1359 Patna, n.w. - 369 Golconda, s.w. - - 907 Pondicherry, s.w. - 1157 Gorruckpore - 325 Poonah, w.s.w. - 1107 G untoor - 807 Purneah, n. - 282 Gwalior, w.n.w. - 782 Rajalimundry, s.w. - 690 Hansee tf 995 Ramghaut, n.w. - 879 Hussingabad Ghaut, w. 864 Ruttumpour, w. - 493 Hydrabad, w.s.w. - 972 Salem - 1221 Indore, w. - 970 Samulcotta - 664 Jeypoor, w.n.w. - 975 Sattarah, s.s.w. - - 1180 Jaulnah - 932 Saugur, w. - 742 Juanpore - 466 Seetapoor - 671 Jumulpore - 301 Seringapatam, s.w. - 1236 Kaira - 1204 Sholapoor - 1162 Laliore, n.w. - 1356 Sindy, or Tatta, w. - 1602 Lassa, n.n.e. - 850 Sirong, w. - 849 Lucknow, n.w. - - 649 Sumbulpour, w.s.w. - 309 Madras, s.w. . 1030 Surat, w. - 1238 Madura, s.w. - 1336 Sylhet, N.E. - 332 Mangalore - 1359 Tanjore, s.w. - 1257 Masulipatam, s.w. - 797 Tannab - 1198 Midnapore, w. - - 69 Tellicherry - 1307 Mirza oore, n.w. - 455 Triehiuopoly, s.w. - 1254 Mong lyr, n.w. - 304 Vellore - 1100 Moorshedabad, n. - 118 Vingoria - 1370 Muttra, w.n.w. - 818 Vizagapatam, s.w. - 557 Mysore, s.w. - 1246 Viziapour, w.s.w. - 1183 Nagpour, w. ■" 677 Yellore - 1160 DISTANCES F] lOM :madras. British Miles. British Miles. Adoni, N.w. - 310 Alleppee - 470 Ahtoor - 186 Amedabad, n.w. - 1050 Ajmere, n.n.w. - 1272 Anantapore - 293 Agrii, N. - 1238 Arcot, w.s.w. 71 Allaliabad, n. - - 1151 Arnce 81 APPENDIX. 131 British Miles. British Miles. Aurungabad, n.w. 690 Columbo (Ceylon) 504 Avanasliy 289 Comercolly 1197 Azimghur 1220 CotampuUy 259 Backerfjange 124G Combatore, s.w. 315 Balasore 922 Combura, n.n.w. 223 Banda 1102 Combaconum, s.s.w. - 179 Bancapore, w.n.w. 416 Comorin Cape, w.s.w. 440 Bandamalanka, n.n.e. 358 Condapilly, n. - 285 Bangalore, w. - 205 Conjaveram, w.s.w. - 46 Bareilly 1329 Corah, n. - - lOSO Barrackpore 1079 Cuddalore, s.s.w. 110 Beder, n.n w. - 470 Cuddapah, n.w. 166 Bednore, w. - - 445 Calmacherry, w.n.w. 115 Belgaum 519 Dacca 1250 Bellary, n.w. 316 Delhi, N. - - 1372 Benares, w. 1151 Deyrah Dhoon 1492 Berhampour, n.n.av, - 682 Dharwhar 468 Bezoarah 275 Dhangor 424 Bimlipatam 518 Dinapore 1337 Bisnagur, n.n.w. 386 Dindigul, s.w. - 270 Bombay, n.w. - 763 Dowlatabad, n w. 655 Broach, n.w. 947 EUichpour, n.n.w. 736 Burdwan 1066 EUore, n. 315 Cabul, n.n.w. - 2134 Errode, 253 Calcutta 1062 Etawah 1221 Calicut, w.s.w. - 418 Galle, Point de (Ceylor ) 576 Calberga, n w. - 422 Ganjam, n.n.e. 699 Cambay, n.w. - 998 Ghooty, N.w. 262 Candy (Ceylon) 576 Goa, s.s.w. 573 Cannanore, w.sw. 419 Golconda, n.n.w. 358 Canoge, n. 1141 Gopaulpore 689 Carangooly, s.w. 49 Guntoor, n. 255 Caroor 258 Gurramconda, w.n.w. 149 Cashmere, n.n.w. 1882 Gvvalior, n. 1164 Cawnpore 1200 Hameerpore 1142 Cuttack, N.E. 815 Honore 546 Chandegherry, w.n.w. 91 Hurroor 177 Chatterpour, n. 975 Hurryhur, w.nw. :j93 Cheitore, n.n.w. 1065 Hydrabad, n.n.w. 398 Chicacole, n.n.w. 567 Indore, n.n.w. - 975 Chingleput, s.w. 36 Ingeram, n.n.e. 374 Chittledroog, w.n.w. - 343 Innacondah, n. 237 Chittoor 96 Jauliiah 651 Chunar 1146 Juggurnauth, n.e. 766 Cochin 437 Karaptee 722 im APPENDIX. British Miles. British Miles. Kirkee 670 Ramnad 331 Kurnool 289 Raolcondah, n.w. 382 Kuriiaul 1477 Ramapatam 137 Lahore, n n.w. 1675 Rhotuck 1422 Madapollum, n. 327 Rasrapore 350 Madura, s.s.w. 292 Rungpore 1322 Mangalore, w. - 436 Ruttumpore, n.n.e. - 903 Masulipatam, n.n.e. - 285 Ryacottah, w.s.w. 179 Mirzapore, n. - 1124 Salem, s.w. 217 Moorshedabad, n.e. - 1138 Saharanpore 1477 Muctul 349 Sadras 58 Mysore, w, - - 290 Samulcottah 399 Nacricul 329 Saiigor 964 Naggery, w.n.w. 57 Sankerrydroog, s.w. - 245 Nagore, s. - - 182 Sattarah, n.w, - 609 Nagpoor, n. - - 713 Secunderabad - 398 Narsingapatam, n.e. - 716 Seringapatam, w. 281 Neermul 530 Sedashegur 604 Negapatam, s. - 187 Serampore 1081 Nellore, n.n.w. 111 Shahjehanpore - 1320 Nowgaum 732 Sheally 150 Nundedroog, w. 196 Shergotty 1258 Oogein, n.n.w. 1009 Serah 289 Oolunderpet 131 Sirsah 1548 Oossoor . - - 200 Shahabad 1367 Ooiacaraund 338 Sholapore 534 Ongole, N. 189 Siccacollara, n. 267 Oude, N. 1228 Sindy, or Tatta, n.w. 1467 Palamcottah, s.s.w. - 390 Siront;, n.n.w. 9U5 Palaveram 11 St. Thomas's Mount - 8 Patna, n.n.e. 1299 Surat, N.w. 903 Paulghautcherry, s.w. 346 Subatoo 1577 Paniput 1428 Sylhet 1395 Ponany 404 Tanjore, w.s.w. 212 Pondicherry, ss w. - 98 Telliclierry, w.s.w. 411 Poonali, N.w. 667 Timerycottah, N. 291 Poonamalee, w.sw. - 12 Tinnevelly, s.s.w. 390 Poondy 624 Toomkoor 256 Port Nova 129 Turn look 1034 Pondigul 286 Trincomallee (Ceylon) 426 Pubna 1210 Trivandruni 481 Purneath 1302 Traiiquebar, s. 168 Piilicat 30 Tricliiiiopoly, s.s.w. - 209 Quilon 454 Tripassore, \v. - 30 llaclioro, N.w. - 349 Tutacorin, s.s.w. 424 Kajalimundry, n. 373 ^'eliort', w. S(i APPENDIX. loo British Miles. British Miles. Visiapore, n.w. - 534 Wallajalibad, s.w. - 38 Vizagapatam, n.n.e. - 501 Warangole, n. - 414 Vencatagherry - 132 Yelwall - - 293 Viziniagram - - 523 DISTANCES FROM BOMBAY. British Miles. British Miles. Agra, N.E. - 754 Dapoolee 121 Ahniednuggur, e. - 162 Deesa 451 Ajmere, n.n.e. - 677 Delhi, N.N.E. 868 Akola - 349 Dharwar 351 Akulkote - 269 Dhoolia 208 Allahabad, n.e. - 831 EUichpore 443 Amedabad, n. - - 354 Goa, s. - - 318 Amulnair ^ 231 Golconda, e.s.e. 475 Arcot, s.E. - 715 Goorgong 892 Asseerghur - 313 Gwalior, n.e. 680 Aurungabad, e. - 215 Hingolee 373 Azimghur - 977 Honore 414 Baitool - 433 Hurryhur 446 Bancote - 115 Hursole 358 Bangalore - 633 Hussingabad Ghaut, Baroda, n. - 281 EN.E. 460 Basseen, n. 32 Hydrabad, e.s.e. 434 Bejapoor - 280 Jaeypour, n. 745 Belgaum - 318 Jansi, N.E. 400 Bellary - 446 Julnah 253 Benares, n.e. - 927 Indore, n.e. 374 Berhampour, n.e Kaira 334 (Ganjam) - 1015 Khanpalla 5Q Bhevvndy 34 Kirkee 87 Bhooj (Cutch) - 587 Kulludghee 314 Bhopaw, vv. - 449 Kurar 194 Broach, n. - 231 Loodianah 1077 Calcutta, E. - 1185 Lucknow, N.E. 907 Callian, n.e 36 Madras, s.e. 703 Calpee, n e. - 803 Madura 858 Chandore - 150 Malcolm Peyt 130 Chunar - 952 Malligaiun 175 Cochin, s.s.E. - 772 Malwan 278 Cuttack, E. - 1151 Mangalore, s s.e. 524 Damaun - 128 Masulipatam, e.s e. - 654 134 APPENDIX. British Miles. British Miles. Mirzapour, e.n.e. - 890 Seringapatam, s.s.e. - 626 Mhow - 360 Seroor - 131 Muktul - 420 Severndroog - 133 Mysore, s.s.e. - 636 Sholapore - 246 Nagpour, e.n.e. - 508 Sindy, or Tatta, w.n .w. 773 Nassick - 111 Sirong, n.e. - 595 Oude, N.E. - 1013 Sumbulpour, e.n.e. - 879 Ouiein, n.e. - 408 Surat, N. - 191 Patna, e.n.e. - 1005 Tan j ore - 871 Pondicherry, s.e. - 803 Tannah - 24 Poonah, s.e. - 90 Tellicherry, s.s.e. - 629 Raj cote - 458 TuUeh - 77 Rutnagerry - 198 Vingorla - 283 Ruttumpour, e.n.e. - 772 Viziadroog - 244 Salem - 747 Viziapour, s.e. - 234 Sattarali, s.e. - 163 Vizrabuy, n.n.e. - 48 INDEX. Page Aden ..... 56 Alexandria .... 26 Bombay, overland to . 36 „ Rules for Passengers by the East India Company's Steamers .... 39 Boulac .... 30 Cairo to Suez . . . • 33 Ceylon, passage to . . . 2,51 China, overland to . 46 Desert, the .... 33 Distances from Calcutta, Madras and Bombay 129 Egypt, sojourn in . . . 83 Gibraltar ..... 8 Lazaretto, Maltese 67 „ Marseilles 76 Syra 78 Madras, passage to . . 2, 50 Malta . . . . • 11,67 Miscellaneous . . . 82 NUe, travelling on the 83 Overland journey, expense of . 43 „ Via France, Germany and Italy 42 „ Homeward 47,65 Passengers, instructions to 4 Penang, overland to ... 46 Plague, the . 59 Pyramids, ascent of the . 52 Servants, Indian 80 Singapore, overland to . • • 46 Southampton, passage to . 78 Sporting in Egypt .... 112 Surat, passage to, from Bombay 127 Tariff of duty goods .... lis Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon and Cadiz 114 Voyage via the Cape 45 W. LEWIS AND SON, FRlNTKIiS, FINCH-LANE, LONDON. GREAT LIVERPOOL. FJltyntUt. jc IS. OUSr^aJ St /:J'/P 'Vf/f-J. '/A/ >y'r/:jr ■ y/-'/^/ y; 0/U •./■ff/ /,,/ /- (jy,/." '/juv/.K-j /-/././ . '/l.o/ , POOP CABINi M . l/i'sliti/ir-riorf'altn 4£trt/isg.-tn ^■^ [ (;,„;/ TJvuUr C'jI V G.HJ C.D.E.F.I.JKL S,1^kCa/w, MAIN SALOON 1 /t ,1 Clhli uM wc """'fylii/c, Z-^, f,rn„/t nar/ia /mldi :i tjCadics Calm /lij^ I, Ditilu 3 to 15 27lrr//,s ,r 4 -l*frsons Jii l/ir Dininif Bmm yw/ rmmy Sofas an conver/i't/ iftto lirt/s af A^iffkt BIACAK. I r'/:tr- ■ y f/e/.y.'L--r IBERIA, 0-MM-/// r/,//,,; (,„/,/"'. Jja f/f.,^. '/y ^ V /.t/f/res Ca/f'ji S/fUc/fr/.s afiJ , -itry fif/iZ/rmttii-i Ca/iti . _ lit/At and .^iry for 6 lif/yons A _ Vt-ry cofnfhrf.ndfe for / B . C. D. J5 -, Good Caliitis 4Srrdfs caih ■ X-yxoidt sf r$.ous>«.xd .s 560.::. rr 'a/fJ. /; '> L^ii 'fSY^ ^/(/r?^i^'QyaU'€ytA /^ ( (/y//// '//'/ / vv/ /r>y ( '/■////^^ • y^fa y rr '/j y/J =1 yrc Crertf./€//ianW ('a// // / / \ \ ^ r T,afj//.es Cci^'in _ Spacf-ous and ^/Iiry acccmtroot^ales /O ^rf'////f/?ian's Caiin. . Zi(/ht and .^iry for 6 jPersons A _ Very co/nfbrtal'lc ^t / B. (M). K (irrd Calins 4 BeH/u each F. G ._ Ci'/n/nrfa/Ye (W/-/'ns 4 Bc/i/ts rar/i rR'./nocdt sr. IS.OWSmiui S( U PPER D EC K SAy/r^A/ over no wc D.E.P. G.H.I Sin^/e Ca/nns fto wc FORWARD Al\ AW. AU. AZ Ct?m/hrlai/^^mly ''^^^'"■^j^'^''^^/ f't/i/Zr/^^ n't/A trc in r^ir/i AR. AS Fft/r f't.n//rrM€n. farA AP.A.V.V, ,/^^^,. Z AE. Al. J -^ + TA^se (bolted Zifus x/iia- fAe p^si/tr^n rf thep -ihc wc fAgy/-^//!/^- corn^rlally a/ran//e-c/ ou/sid^lAr S'/iip HINDOSTAN.i BEMTBMSi^ AS'/'/' >//>//.). .'/I/' . y'lfz-jr ■ y/'f/f/ y. I '///, yfi/A wc fft caeA ■// 1 m// /ot- ^oA// F.Rtyni,lo dolivoroil on tlic 15tli and 2$f li of <>acli inontli, iic'<*<»iii|»aiiitMl l».r a 4liv«ic*i'i|»tioii of tUc valiK' aii«l K-<'ii4>ral iiarBii-o of tlio c'<»iiteiitM, aiKl in- 6ti'u<'ti4»iiM ^vlietlK'i* to be insnrcMl at a cliai'ge of 'i^, l»er cent. Offices: — 17, St. Mary -Awe ; 137, Leadtnhall-street ; and 33, Regent Circus, Piccadilly. Advertisements. 9 PENINSULAR AND ORIENTAL STEAM NAVIGATION COMPANY. INCORPORATED BY ROYAL CHARTER IN 1840. Offices, No, 51, St. IVEary Axe, Iiondon, AND 57, HIGH STXLIiET, SOVTHA3VIFTON. INDIA. (Overland Route). The Lines of Steam Communication embraced by the Company's opera- tions are as t'ollovvs : — > From the Southampton Docks .3rd BOMBAY ^ of every Month, at 2 p. iM. CEYLON, MADRAS, and CAL- / From the'Southampton Docks 20th CUTTA ^ of every Month, at 2 p. M. MALTA and ALEXANDRIA ; also) Naples, Leghorn, Civita Vecchia/ From the Southampton Docks 3rd Genoa, &c. in conjunction with thef and 20th of every Month, at 2 p.m. Neapolitan Compacv's Steamers.. J VIGO, OPORTO, LISBON, CADIZ, I From the Southampton Docks every and GIBRALTAR S Thursday, at 2 p.m. CONSTANTINOPLE, calling at ) From the Southampton Docks 3rd Gibraltar, Malta, Athens, & Smvrna I of every Month at 2 p.m. JERUSALEM, the HOLY LAND, > ^_„^. „ , T^ • , RHODES. CYPRUS, &c. &c. .. J Occasional Trips. ATADFTRA i '^ Steamer from Madeira in the ' ^ Spring every year. The present Establishment of the Company consists of the following vessels : TONS. HORSE POW. HINDOSTAN, Capt. R. MORESBY, L N ISOO 520 BENTINCK, Capt. A. KELLOCK 1800 520 PRECURSOR, Capt. H. HARRIS, B.C. S. 18U0 .... 520 ORIENTAL, Capt. J. SOY 1673.... 450 (GREAT) LIVERPOOL, Capt. A. M'LEOD 1540 464 BRAGANZA 1000 .... 300 TAGUS 900 .... 300 ROYAL TAR 700 260 MONTROSE 650 240 LADY MARY WOOD 650 250 IBERIA 600 ... 200 PACHA 550 210 For the Conveyance of Passengers in Egypt. ATFEH STEAM TUG plying on the Mahmoudich Canal. PASSAGE BOATS Ditto Ditto. CAIRO LOTUS 5^ IRON STEAM BOATS on the River Nile. DELTA } 10 Advertisements. NAMES OF THE COMPANY^S AGENTS. AT XIOX^S. Falmouth W. and E. C. Came. Southampton Lieut. Kendall, R.N. Superintendeul. T. Hill, Shipping Agent. Manchester E. Laugston. Edinburgh Glasgow G. and I. Burns. ABROAD. Aden L. Thomas, Alexandria Biisrgs and Co. „ J. Davidson, Superintendent. Athens Green and Dixon. Cadiz Hijos de Pedro de Zulueta. Calcutta J. K. Engledue. Ceylon (Gai.le) Captain Tvvynam. Constantinople C. Hanson and Co. ,, Capt. B. Ford, Superintendent. Gibraltar W.J.Smith. Lisbon J. Van/eller and Sons. Madras ,..,.... C. Biden. Malta , O. C. Edmond, Superintendent. Oporto A. Miller. Smyrna R, B. Abbott. Suez John Ryan. Syra R. Wilkinson, H. M.'s Consul. Vigo Menendez and Barceua For plans of the vessels, full particulars of the rates of passage and freight, and information generally, apply, either personally or by letter, to the above Agents; also at the Office, 33; Regent Circus, and to secure passage, apply at the Peninsular anil Oriental Steam Havig-ation Company's Offices, 51, !^t. Mary Axe, liOntlon, and 57, Hig-li-strcet, tiontliauipton. INDIA via EGYPT, (The Overland Route). Average length of Passage from England to Bombay 35 days, Ceylon 42 days, Madras 45 days, Calcutta 48 days. The Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company book Passengers throughout to India, including Expenses of Transit through Egypt. The steamers start from and return to Southampton. Railway Trains from Nine Elms, Vauxhall, to Southampton, in tlie Morning, at 7, 9, and 11 o'clock. Afternoon, 1, 3, and 5 o'clock. Evening, half-past 8 o'clock. Sunday Trains, Morning, 10 o'clock. Afternoon, 5 o'clock. Evening ~ past 8 o'clock. Passengers should be at the Station at least a quarter of an hour before the Trains start. Advertisements. 11 CEVI«ON, IVIADZtAS^ AND CAZ.CVTTA, Throughout by the Company's Steamers, conveying the Mails and Despatches, under Contract with II ER MAJESTY'S GOVERNMENT. From Southampton to Alexandria 2()th of every month, by the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company's ships "Oriental" and " Great Liverpool," under Contract with Her Majesty's Government ; and from Suez by their steam-ships the " Hindostan," "Bentinck," and "Precur- sor," on or about the 10th of every month. AN EXPERIENCED SURGEON ON BOARD EACH VESSEL. Passengers should embark at Southampton not later than 1 P. M. General Rates of Passage (including Transit through Egypt.) Between England, Ceylon, Madras and Calcutta. A berth in the general cabin throughout for ageutleman £128 .. £133 . . £143 for a lady .. 138 .. 143 .. 153 For a gentleman and his wife in the same cabiu 323 .. 333 . 353 The above Rates will be proportionately increased according to the class of accommodation required. Children with their Parents. Not exceeding two years, being free (except expenses of Transit throuyh Egypt, and Steward's Fees) 12.. 12.. 12 About two years and not exceeding six .. •• 48 .. 52.. 62 Above six years and not exceeding ten .. .. 68 . , 72 .. 82 Passengers' Servants. Native servants 30 . . 35 . . 40 European servants 50 . . 55 .. CO For large Families an allowance will be made in the foregoing Rates. Half the amount of Passage Money is required to be paid on securing Passage, and the balance a fortnight before embarkation. Passengers not proceeding after engaging Passage, to forfeit the deposit of half the amount of Passage INloney. The Hates of Passage include Steward's Fees and Table Wines, &c., for First Class Passengers. Bedding, Linen, and all requisite Cabin Furniture to the minutest particular is provided in the Steamers at the Company's expense. The expense of Transit through Egypt is also included in the passage money, with the exception of Wines, Spirits, Beer, Soda Water, Hotel Expenses, and extra Baggage, all of which must be paid for separately by passengers. Baggage. — First Class Passengers are allowed, in the Company's Steamers, on either side of the Isthmus, 3 cwt. of personal Baggage free of Freight, and Children and Servants 1^ cwt. each. And Passengers will please to take note, that the Company cannot engage to take any excess of Baggage over that quantity, unless shipped at Suuthumpton three days before starting, and Freight paid thereon. 12 Advertisements. The charge for conveyance of extra Bao:gage, should there be room in the Vessel, will be £2 per cwt. between Suez and India, and £1 per cwt. between England and Alexandria. All luggage, except carpet bags and hat boxes, must be put on board the day previous to departure. All other luggage, that shall be shipped on the day of sailing, will be considered extra and must be paid for accordingly. Passengers will have to pay the Egyptian Transit Company in Egypt IGs. per cwt. for conveyance of Baggage through, should it exceed, for First- class Passengers, 2 cwt., and Children and Servants I cwt. No package of Baggage should exceed SO lbs, weight. The best dimensions for a Trunk or Portmanteau are, length 2 ft. 3 in. — breadth, 1 ft. 2 in. — depth, 1 ft. 2 in. Every package of baggage should have the owner's name and place of destination distinctly painted upon it in white letters. No Trunks, Boxes, or Portmanteaus allowed in the Saloon or Cabins. The Company do not hold themselves liable for any damage or loss of baggage, nor for unavoidable delays, accidents, fire, steam, or sea or land risks of any kind whatever. TRANSIT THROUGH EGYPT. The Transit through Egypt is conducted by the Egyptian Transit Com- pany; but Mr. James Davidson, of Alexandria, the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company's Superintendant in Egypt, will per- sonally render Passengers every facility and assistance, and he will either accompany them on the journey, or appoint one of this Company's officers to do so. The distance between Alexandria and Suez is noiv performed with ease in 72 hours, including a night's vest at Cairo, and some time for refreshment and repose at the Stations between Cairo and Suez. The following is a slight sketch of the mode in which the journey is per- formed : First Stage — From Alexandria to Atfeh, distance 48 miles, by the Mahmoudieh Canal, in large commodious passage boats, towed by the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company's powerful Steam Tug, «' Atfeh." Second Stage— from Atfeh to Boulac (the port of Cairo), 120 miles, upon the Nile by swift and commodious Iron Steamers. — Third Stage •^from Cairo to Suez, about 70 miles, in carriages of the best construction. On arriving at Suez, Passengers should at once apply to Mr. John Ryan, the Company's Agent there, who will b" in readiness to receive them, and to afford every assistance in their embarkation on board the Steamer for Ceylon, Madras, and Calcutta. B03VEBAV. From Southampton to Alexandria, by the Company's Steamers " Tagls," and " Bkaganza," (in conjunction with the Steamer, " Iberia," between Malta and Alexandria), conveying the mails and despatches under contract with Her Majesty's Government, and from Suez to Bombay, by the Honor- able East India Company's Steamers. AN EXPERIENCED SURGEON ON BOARD EACH VESSEL. Passengers should embark at Soul li amp tun not later than 1 r. M. Advertisements. 13 The Honorable East India Company's Steamer conveys the passengers and mails from Suez to Bombay, and starts from Suez on or about the '22nd of every month. RATES OF passage: — From SOUTHAMPTON to ALEXANDRIA. £ s. d. A berth in the general cabins for a lady or gentleman , . . . 46 10 Passengers' Servants. European servants 21 Native Servants (no berth provided) 15 15 The Rates of Passage include steward's fees, table, wines, &c., for first class passengers. Bedding, linen, and all requisite cabin furniture, to the minutest particular, are provided in the steamers at the Company's expense. Baggage. — Passengers are requested to pay particular attention to the regulations respecting baggage, under the head of Ceylon, Madras, and Calcutta. TRANSIT THROUGH EGYPT. (BOMBAY PASSENGERS.) As the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company do not book passengers going to Bombay further than Alexandria, they should, on arriving there, at once pay the amount of transit expenses, (£15 First Class; £10 Children and Female Servants ; and £8 Male Servants,) at the Egyptian Transit Company's OflSce, and obtain the ticket ior the journey. Mr. J. Davidson, the Peninsular and Oriental Company's Superintendent in Egypt, will cheerfully afford every assistance in his power to passengers who may find it necessary to apply to him. For further particulars respecting Transit, see under head of Ceylon, INIadras, and Calcutta. On arriving at Suez, passengers should at once apply for the passage in the Honorable East India Company's Steamers to Bombay, to H. Levick, Esq., British Vice-Consul, and Mr. John Ryan, the Peninsular and Oriental Company's Agent at Suez, will also be happy to afford every assistance in his power to passengers applying to him. For Plans of the Vessels, full particulars of the Kates of Passage and Freight, and luformation generally, apply, either personally or by letter, to the above Agents ; also at No. 33, Regent Circus, and to secure passage, apply at the PosBiiisiElar ami Oriental Stoani ISfavig-ation Comi>aaBy'»» Ollices, 51, St. ]flary Axe, lioniloii, aii«l 59, Uig-b-strcet, Soittliaiupton. 14 Advertisements. Carlton Chambers, 8, Regent Street, London. CAPPER AND WATERS, Having now made many thousand CORAZZA SHIRTS, can with confi- dence recommend them, for fitting with a precision and ease hitherto unknown when made to correct measures. By confining their attention to shirts, and supplying them for present cash only", CAPPER and WATERS can offer the Corazza, and all other shaped shirts, of the best materials and work, at very moderate prices. Any gentleman may have the Corazza Shirt made to fit, by sending the following measures, without making any allowance for shrinking of materials, &c. : — 1, Round the neck, at base — 2, Round the body, close under the arms — 3, Round the waist — 4, From the lowest projecting bone of the neck, behind, round the elbow to the wrist — 5, Round the wrist — 6, The desired length of the shirt. The height and shape of the collar required may be traced with a pen upon the order. The linens and cottons used for making these Shirts are of the same superior fabrics which are sold by J. Capper and Son, at Gracechurch-street, in the City, with a reputation established for more than sixty years. CAIRO. Messrs. LEVICK and Co. Avail themselves of this opportunity of acquainting the public of their having established an Agency in this City. The want of an establishment of this nature has been often remarked. Their aim is to embrace business of a general nature, as also to afford to tra- vellers to and from India and Europe (particularly those making a sojourn in Egypt), every information requisite. They beg to assure the public that no exertion on their parts shall be wanting to conduct their business upon such efficient principles, as to merit entire patronage and confidence. N.B. — Goods, to or from India, are shipped or cleared at the Suez Custom House, by addressing the Agent of the above Firm there. Cairo, 1st June, 1844. jax:cojrjrojrvjERT3€f ti:i^escopm:s. This Celebrated Instrument, measuring only 3| inches when closed, possesses sufficient power to shew distinctly Jupiter's moons. Its efficient performance, as a Reconnoitering Telescope, both as to magnifying and defining power, renders it peculiarly adapted to the Military Gentleman and Tourist. Price .35s.— To be had of the Maker, J. DAVIS, OPTICIAN, DERBY. A dvertisements. 1 5 THE ATRAPILATORY LIQUID HAIR DYE. The only dye that really answers for all colours, and does not require re- doing, but as the hair grows, as it never fades or acquires that unnatural red or purple tint common to all other dyes. ROSS AND SONS Can, with the greatest confidence, recommend this dye as infallible, if done at their Establishment; and ladies or gentlemen requiring it, are requested to bring a friend, or servant with them to see how it is used, which will enable them to do it afterwards, without the chance of failure. Several private ajjartments, devoted entirely to the above purpose, and some of their establishment having used it, the effect produced can be at once seen. They think it necessary to add, that by attending strictly to the instructions given with each bottle of dye, numerous persons have succeeded equally well with- out coming to them. ADDRESS ROSS AND SONS, 119 and 1 Q,0, Bishopsgate-street, London, THE CELEBRATED PERRUQUIERS, PERFUMERS, HAIR-CUTTERS, & HAIR-DYERS. N. B. — Parties attended at their own residences, whatever the distance ; or the dye can be sent by post, rail, or coach, to any part, a remittance or Post-office order being sent. Price, per post, pre-paid, first size, 7s. — second, third, or fourth ditto, being above 16 ounces, must go by rail. Prices, packed in wood, lis., 16s., and 21s. On ordering the dye, state whether the hair is dark or brown. THE NEW TOOTH BRUSH, Made on the most scientic principle, thoroughly cleaning between the teeth when used up and down, and polishing the surface when used crossways. This brush so_ entirely enters between the closest teeth, that the inventors have decided iipon naming it the Tooth-pick Brush. Therefore ask for it under that name, marked and numbered as under; viz., full-sized brushes, mark T.P.W., No. 1, hard; No. 2, less hard; No. .3, middling ; No. 4, soft; the narrower brushes, mark, T.P.N., No. 5, hard; No. 6, less hard; No. 7, middling ; No. 8, soft. These inimitable brushes are only to be had at ROSS AND SONS, 119 AND 120, BISHOPSGATE-STREET; And they warrant the hair never to come out, at is. each, or 10s. per dozen, in bone ; and 2s. each, or 2ls. per dozen in ivory. IG Advertisements. WATCHES, CHRONOMETERS, AND CLOCKS, BY WEBSTER AND SON, Chronometer Makers to the Lords of the Admiralty, (ESTABLISHED 134 YEARS,) CORNHILL, REMOVED TO MORE COMMODIOUS PREMISES, No. 74. The enormous prices ia the purchase of Watches that the Colonial public have hitherto been compelled to pay, and the consequent restrictions of their sale, together with the quantity of common Watches annually exported, have induced WEBSTER and SON yet further to reduce their prices, having had sufficient evidence that good articles, sold at a moderate price, command an extensive Colonial trade. The removal, as above, will give them additional facility for the manufac- ture on the premises, as far as the nature of the business will admit, under their own immediate inspection ; at the same time, they pledge a reputation maintained by their family for nearly a century and a hall, that only the most superior articles will be manufactured, and if the quality be equal, at lower prices than any house in London. They solicit attention to their newly-introduced Compensated Duplex and Lever Watches, in which the usual irregularities from the variations of temperature, are counteracted upon the jirinciple of their Chronometer, to which Government awarded the Prizes three years in succession. The extreme variation in a year of No. 675, did not exceed 86-hundredths of a second ; No. 665, 89-hundredths of a second; and No. 679, 98-hun- dredths of a second. This extraordinary accuracy might be doubted, had not the rates been taken by official persons at the Royal Observatory. The Detached Lever Watch is also manufactured with extreme care, and will give perfect satisfaction in its performance ; of elegant patterns for ladies and gentlemen. Also a large assortment of elegant Foreign Watches of the finest manufacture, selected with judgment, carefully examined and warranted. In the Clock department, W. and Son have successfully introduced the Detached Lever escapement in place of the pendulum, to avoid the continual complaint of the clock stopping when out of level or in motion. They are adapted for carriages, and are made of all sizes, as time pieces or clocks to strike the hours and quarters upon eight bells, in solid rosewood, mahogany, or gilt cases. Marine and Pocket Chronometers, with long and close rates, always on sale. For the rates of their Prize Chronometer vide the Quarterly and Edinburgh Revieirs of October, 1840, and January, 1841. Private orders executed in London, by payment on delivery to their Agents, at either of the Presidencies ; lU per cent, discount if the account be forwarded with the order. The goods sent bv the return overland. Any orders will also meet with immediate attention, and be transmitted to Europe, if given to their Atrent, Mk. I. T. Bell, Bo.mb.w, who has a list of prices, aad a selection of iheir superior manufacture in his possession. AVEBSTER & SON, No. 74, CORNHILL. Advertisements. 17 THE ORTHO-CHRONOGRAPH, AN INSTRUMENT FOR CORRECTING CHRONOMETERS, WATCHES, AND CLOCKS. WEBSTER AND SON, Chronometer 3Iakers to the Lords of the Admiralty, Have introduced the aliove Patent Instrument, for ascertaining correct time at any part of the world ; and from its portability and simplicity of construc- tion, it must supersede any other instrument of the kind. It requires no astronomical kno\vled>;e on the part of the observer, and may be adjusted to any place in the space of two minutes. It has been highly approved by our most eminent men in science and astronomy, and met with general approbation at the late meeting of the British Association at York. — Phice, £4 10s. WEBSTER AND SON, No. 74, CORNHILL. PATENT ELECTEO-PLATED GOODS. Messrs. ELRINGTOl^ and CO., C.\i.L the attention of Merchants, Shippers, and others, to the articles of their Manufacture, now acknowledged to be superior to all others hitherto made. Their system of manufacture differs as much from that formerly in use, as the appearance and durability of the articles produced. These goods are made of a hard ivhite metal, (not acted upon by acids,) cast solid and chased ; and where joints are required, silver solder is used, so that an article is produced in every respect equal to a solid silver one previously to plating. The plating is a hard and strong deposit of pure silver, from a solution of that metal, forming an union with the article by the agency of the recently discovered property of the Galvanic current. For the quality of their goods, Messrs. E. and Co. cannot do better than refer to those of their manufacture, in use ou board the vessels of the Royal West India Mail Company. ORDEKS, WITH REMITTANCES, ADDRESSED TO 22^ Regsnt-Stbseit, or 45, Moobgatb-Stbest, LONDON, Will meet prompt attention. Books of Prices and Drawings forwarded abroad free of charye. b 18 Advertisements. CHUBB'S LOCKS, BOXES, &c. CHUBB'S NEW PATENT DETECTOR LOCKS, Give perfect security from false keys and picklocks, and also ifive immediate notice of anv attempt to open them. They are made of every size, and for all purposes to which locks are applied, and are strong, secure, simple, and diirahle. Chubb's Patent Fire-proof Strong Rooms, Safes, Dollar Chests, and Boxes, form a complete security for Money, Deeds, Plate, Books, &c., from Fire and Thieves. These articles are used by, and may be seen at the Banks of Bombay, Madras, and Ceylon. Cash Boxes, Palanquin, and Despatch Boxes, strong Japan Bullock Trunks, and Japan Boxes of all dimensions on sale, or made to order, all fitted with the Detector Locks. Caution. — All of the above Locks, Safes, and Boxes, have the address stamped or marked in full, thus—" 57, St. Paul's Church-yard, London." Without this none are genuuine. C. CHUBB AND SON, 57, ST. PAUL'S CHUHCH-YARD, LONDON. PATENT ARGYLE LAMPS, AND EGYPTIAN HAIiL, PICCADILLY, LONDON. A. REEVE (late Sam. Parkek) be^js to return his most sincere thanks to families residing in India, &c., for their kind patronage, and hopes by his strict attention to merit their future favours, which shall be of the best materials and workmanship. A. R. begs to inform them, that in consequence of letters being directed Sam. Parker, instead of A. Keeve, late S. Parker, it has caused a great delay, and would wish the future fur the direction to be, ALFRED REEVE, (Late S. PARKER) Egyptian Hall, Piccadilly, London. A. R. wishes to introduce to their notice a list of his prices for cash, pay- able through agency in London on shipping the same. Argyle lamps on gold lacquered, or bronze pillars, complete £3 3 to £5 5 4 oz. Bronze Coffee Pot 3 10 U 2 oz. ditto ditto .. .. .- .. 2 2 1 oz. ditto ditto 1 11 6 In Block Tin :— 4 oz. •• "• •• •• •• •• iljU 2 oz. I I i oz. IG U Advertisements. 1 9 JOSEPH RQDGERS AND SONS, CUTLERS TO HER MAJESTY, No. 6, NORFOIjK street, SHEFFIELD, MANUFACTURERS OF EVERY DESCRIPTION OF CUTIiERY, SISiVEIt IPILATE, AND PLATE-CHESTS, CANTEENS, &c., FITTED UP IN THE BEST MANNER ON THE SHORTEST NOTICE. AGHNTS:- LoNDON .... Mr, a. HAMILTON, Hatton Garden. Calcutta . . . Messrs. LEACH, KEITLEWELL & Co, Bombay .... Messrs. WILLIAM ELSAM & Co. Hong Kong . . . Messrs. FOX, RAWSON & Co. New York . . Mr. JOHN A. NEWBOLD. 20 Advertisements. ARM'ST AND NAVY EQUIPMENTS. W. BUCKMASTEE & CO., 3, NSW BUZtliZNGTON STXLEET, Three Doors from Regent Street, LONDON, AND 55, DAWSON STREET, DUBLIN. f INSTRUCTIONS FOR TAKING MEASURE, Which may be done with a piece of tape, and reduced into inches, stating the height of person, and if any peculiarity in figure, also whether taken over a uniform or plain coat. COATS, VESTS, &c. Inches. Height and Length of Collar . . From bottom of Collar to Hip Buttons ,, . Hip Buttons to bottom of Skirt ,, Centre of Back to Elbow Continued to length of Sleeve. . Size round top of Arm . . ,, „ Chest, over Coat ,, ,, ,, under Coat . . ,, ,, Waist, oi'er Coat .. ,, under Coat.. TROWSERS. Inches From top of Trowsers to bottom ,, Fork to bottom of Trowsers Size round top of Thigh (tight) „ Calf (tight).. Size round Waist „ Hips FOR HAT OR CAP. Inches. Size round Head N.B. Gentlemen who have not previously had an account with the house, will be pleased to make a reference to their Agents in London for payment, for which a discount will be allowed. Advertisements. 21 ROBES, MODES, COSTUME Db: lUL, ET TROUSSEAUX DE MARRIAGE. COURT MILLINER AND DRESS MAKER TO HER MAJESTY, 19, Conduit Street, Hanover Square, Has the honour to announce to the Ladies of the Presidencies, and of India in (jeneral, that she is prepared to supply them with every article of Dress and Millinery, of the first quality, with punctuality, and on the most reasonable terms. MISS STUART, holding Her Majesty's appointment, and visiting Paris twice every year, trusts she needs no further recommendation, London, January, 1845. OF MALTA, COIKIIVIISSION AGENT, UNDERTAKES TO SUPPLY ALL THE OF THE 1st of the MONTH TO BE IN MALTA by the ]'2th or 13th. BY THE MOST EXPEDITIOUS ROUTE. He has constantly on Sale a larcre assortment of London and Paris Editions of the best Authors, in English, French, and Italian; School Books, Chil- dren's Books, Official and Fancy Stationery, Drawing Papers, Colours, Pencils, Engravings, Framings, Bookbinding, Patent Medicines, Gloves, Maltese Mittens, &c. AGENT for the Bombay Monthly Times, the London Monthly Times, (now issued in Fortnightly Parts), Perfumery, Thorn's Whips, Perry's Inks and Inkstands, Metcalfe's and other Tooth Brushes. MUIR'S MAIL LIST Contains every information of the Arrival and Departure of Packets, Weights of Letters, &c. Commissions punctually executed. All Goods at the London Prices. G. MUIR, 247, STRADA REALE. h- Q < UJ > O ^ co" s s ^^ 4)T= a K H j- a a< 5 « CO a-~a SONS, LU O z o p "A O •d to the peculiar requirements o the " Peninsular and Oriental Si leasurc, are largely manufacture leeasing al Cabin ng, and i )ged to u strictly to regulation ; un ;at variety of really usefi te. Estimates of Clothii I!olonies), carefully arrai ^ CO lents a gre a rou the ( 2 fi co" O 1— ( cially a pproved 1 Valise ppointn- ■■es, and long se dass of M Q w PS Ph Q < CO -*1 t— 1 fi 1— I m < nish, and of materials espe , of the exact dimensions a ' of these trunks, oj- into a Mr Uniforms and Military A ng is kept in graduated siz rs to India by the Cape or \ md for Emigrants of every c cm. © c Q w < ESEMER AIL CLOTHIERS, "A o 1— 1 fi UI "A O nnfactured of the best fashion and fi 1 India. Light M'^aterptoof Trunks orse.hair Bedding, to fold into one erland route. ist India Company supplied with the t. A large stock of Under Clothii ate prices, for the use of Passenge 'urgeons, and Passengers to India (e 2nt by post to any part of the Kingd B^ pq LU W ^"^ •2 S S S ^ fiC ^ o ?"3 a, ■= ■^, a i; -a l^-^ 1— CO i.-7. Ji JOHN OLESALE AND O 1— 1 CO CO O jr/jtre /Ae «;We of the Cloih ey and voyage, as well as to a re: gation Company," and very cor EM EKES & SONS expressly fc Officers in the service of the ittention is devoted to this impori ible Furniture, at reduced and ve of OuKit for Writers, Cadets, A; requisite quantities and prices fil o sc a aU •- „ CO r- O — .-. (^ 2 .£,2iPQ ^U*^ » ■^ "> •~ e^ ,1- * ° - *J^ o a bog 0, fl ^ fe E o ■*-• ro C -^ ;5 !0 O QJ I, £ u t. >» " 2 i- a C O o . CTi O O .-O QC 6 Z a •" —1 --H — ;^ O O 00 ^ f- O , h3 S : = s O O (N 00 ?J _^. c£> O O O o . lO fO -f --D a> (0 *" .— ( r-^ —» 6 2 SS] ;^— 1 to C^CT" CO ^ H ^^ l^ < O •. r. K O - " - • t=3 U 01 ems itto itto itto ^ .ti T3 "O "C ^ CO "* -f -f 00 O ■* !N 00 n_p —4 •M [^ _4 :^ o o ■* CO ^ ^ .^ — iC) r— I ■ CO 03 o o 1 ^ t^ • -e 1 ^ . CO CO -^ o -■^ ^ — 1 ^H 1— » 2 o 6 M — ea ^•^ (NiO t^ o "^ < V} » <« » ©§ O - - - • C=S\ u g o o o s- CO .c ^ 5- .t: ■— .— ^ © ." -O -3 -O ^ — lO -T 1— t ^ O X C^ I<1 00 1— ' ^ *5 09 ^ . • • • ^ .... '^ 'h a >^§5 ■ to 2 ^^ • *>t i. m ^ "-I '■^ Divi Div OTH a 5-< H C J VO a. tn z M rt !M ^ „ p &> ^ cS an LOTH ITTO, XT EH EQUIi 2 ^ oCwa "O a a» >» dj a a a 1-1 u ^ « »< "—t , , a -0 ■£ Is C8 S ^ e^. a> (U "> a >^ a ea X 4^ CO a 3 (U J3 -a a s ^ ^ ca ■^ >» S a « -a > C3- 3 •n -3 a, 0) J3 •2 -.-> a s a. a 3 -a . cf CO a y= tA J3 3 >> 3 ^ a" U a (Tl SO aj _^ 3 tf 3 ci 3 ^r- cr 3 c ■3 s a -^ :3 •-* ^ SD be v u 3 S :<-• CJ ^ m .a C trt '5 U 3 cs 3 0) 01 S CJ . :« -►< ?^ X 01 Si ca -.-' ^ ^ J3 CO 05 ift CO •^ CO *^ j_r 41 4) 3 a 00 o CM <^ I =2 ,0 o 12; »- o u O o w < ■s. o M H O * 3 2 O w pLi H M <: Clothing. Long cloth shirts, linen fronts & collars Plain shirts, for night and day use .... Coloured shirts, optional Extra linen collars ■ Night caps Black silk cravats White or coloured cravats Stock with long ends ■ Thin flannel waistcoats ■ Stout warm ditto •< Flannel drawers ■ Calico drawers gross quantity of the above named articles Cotton half hose Merino half hose Silk half hose Cambric pocket handkerchiefs Silk or lawn ditto Cotton or thread gloves Leather gloves • Kid gloves c Braces Linen huckaback towels gross quantity now named ... , White jean jackets White jean trousers White jean waistcoats Fine brown linen trousers .... Russia duck trousers Drill trousers Mosketto trousers India cloth or Camlet trousers Ditto ditto jackets , . . Fine linen jackets Silk jackets, optional Dark fancy waistcoats .... - Fine brown linen ditto Printed quilting ditto Silk waistcoats Dressing s^owns Holland blouses Pilot cloth coat Cloak or great coat Cloth cap and straw hat ESTIMATE No. 1. Sat 3/ 12 at 2/ at 1/6 8 at /ti 6 at /5 1 at 4/3 at/6 at 3/ G at 2/6 2 at 36 2 at 2/6 6 at 1/9 4 doz. and 20 at /8 6 at ]/ at 3/6 20 at /7 at 1/6 9at/9 at 1/6 at 2/ 2 at 1/ 24 at /7 11 6 6 6 2 2 dozens at 4/6 at 4/3 at 3/6 at 4/ at 5/ at 6/6 at 2/6 at 7/ at 7/6 at 4/6 at 10/ at 3/6 at 4/ at 3/6 at 8/ at 9/ at 4/6 at 14/ at 25/ for gross quantity of clothing estimated. 13 doz. i^" 1 Jo Requisites. Valise, containing horse-hair mattress } and pillows, very compact J Pairs of sheets Blankets Pillow cases Counterpane Leather dressing case, tilted Ilair, toolh and nail brushes, and combs Soap, tonih powder, s])onge and bag . . . Lonking-silass and slide Clothes bag with padlock Carpet bag Parcel of haberdashery, shoe ribbon, ) tapes, thread, buttons, S;c f Brush case, blacking, brushes, &c Leather writing case, lifted Waterproof Overland trunks 1 at 34/ 2 at 3/6 2 at 3/9 2 at /9 1 at'^ at 7/ value of ditto 1 at .3/ I at 4/ J at 4/ lat5/ 1 at 14/ 1 14 inch 2 at 21/ Gross Cost subject to a discount of 2^ per cent, for caJi Net Cost of an Overland Outfit, Scale No. 1, £ £ 1 1 13 20 20 11 10 2 10 10 ESTIMATE No. 2. ESTIMATE No. 3. ESTIMATE No. 4. £ s. ii. £ s. il. £ «, (1. ; at 4/ 2 8 12 at 4'6 11 24 at 5/6 6 12 : at 2/6 1 10 12 at 3/ 1 16 at 3/6 - - - at 2/ - . - at 2/9 . - . ai3/9 - - - al/8 8 18 at /9 13 G 24 at 1/ 1 4 at/6 4 12 at /7 7 12at/]0 10 at 5/ 10 2 at 6/ 12 4 at 6/6 1 G at 1/ - . - at 1/2 - - . at 1/3 - - - !z; at 3/6 3 6 4 at -J/ IG (; at 4/6 1 7 o ■ at 3/6 1 8 10 at 4/6 2 5 10 at 5/ 2 10 c« :at46 9 2 at 5/ 10 2 at 5/6 11 : at 3/ 6 2 at 4/ 8 2 at 4/6 9 Ci at ]/10 14 8 12 at 2/ 1 4 12 at 2/6 1 10 l-j 'K. and 7 7 doz. and 2 8 dozens o : at /9 18 24 at /lO 1 24 at 1/2 1 8 CTi . at 1/2 7 6 at 1/8 10 6 at 1/9 10 6 4-^ "at 4/ 4 2 at 4/6 9 6 at 5/ 1 10 >-H [ at 8/ 16 24 at /8 16 atl/ - - - l_^ at 1/6 . . - at 1/8 - . - 24 at 2/3 2 14 o » at/io 7 6 12 at 1/ 12 12 at 1/6 18 c at 1/9 - - - G at 3/6 1 1 6 at 3/6 1 1 'Z at 21 - - - 2 at 3/6 7 2 at 3/6 7 CD '. at 1/3 2 6 4 at 2/6 10 4 at 3/5 14 a 1— t o 1— 1 I at /8 16 24 at ,9 18 24 at 1/ 1 4 Jnz. and 1 15 doi. and 10 17 dozens ^ at 5/ 2 8 at 5,'6 2 4 12 at 6/6 3 18 ) at 4/6 1 7 6 at 5/6 1 13 Gat 6/ 1 16 ; at 1/ 1 4 8 at 4/3 1 14 12 at 5/ 3 : at 4/ 8 2 at 4'6 9 2 at 4/6 9 "Z : at 6/ 12 at 6/ . - . at 7/ H at 7/ . « - 6 at 8/ 2 8 6 at 10/ 3 >■ : at 2/6 5 4 at 2/6 10 6 at 2/6 15 at// _ . - at 7/6 - - - at 8/6 - .. - r^ at 7/6 _ , - at 8/ . - - at 9/6 - - - H : at 46 9 2 at 5/ 10 2 at 6/ 12 at 10/ . • at 11/ . - - 1 at 12/ 12 ^^^ at 5/ . _ . at 6/ . - - at 7/6 - - - S : at 4/ 8 2 at 4'6 9 2 at 5/6 U a at 4/ _ . - at 6/ . - - at 7/6 - - - at 9/ - _ . at 10/6 - - - at 13/ - - - >- at 10/ 10 1 at 12/ 12 1 at 15/ 15 CD at 5/ 5 2 at 6/ 12 2 at 7/6 15 at 16/ 16 1 at 25/ 1 5 1 at 31/6 1 11 6 1— 1 at 30/ _ - - at 35/ - - - at 5U/ lor 8 2 for ' 8 6 2 for 15 6 30 3 > lozensj'or 20 4 2 19 doz. Si Gfor 21 doz. Si 1 for 44 15 6 ^ at 39/ 1 19 1 at 44/6 2 4 6 1 at 52/ 2 12 o at 39 7 6 2 at 5/6 11 2 at 6/ 12 G at 4/6 at /9 at 24 9 2 at 4/9 9 6 2 at 6/ 12 CD I 6 2 at /lO 1 8 2 at ]/ 2 H 2 4 1 at '3/4 3 4 1 at 7/6 7 6 ■^ at 10/ 10 1 at 11/6 11 6 1 at 20/ 1 H-^ alne of 7 value of 12 value of 15 U O ditto 8 ditto 10 ditto 12 at 4/ at 4 '6 4 1 at 5/ 5 1 at JO/ 10 4 6 1 at 4/G 4 (■) 1 at 4/6 4 6 o at 4/ 4 lat5/ 5 at 10/ - - - o at 5/ 5 1 at 5/ 5 1 at 5/ 5 A at 16/ 16 1 at 20/ I 1 at 20/ 1 14 inch 10 6 1 14 inch 11 6 1 14 inch 18 at 21/ 2 28 2 ! 2 at 21/ Gross Cost 2 2 3 at 21/ Gross Cost 3 3 OSS Cost 14 6 39 19 6 57 H 6 Discount 2>* 14 6 Discount 19 6 Discount 1 8 6 ? No. 2, £ Scale No. 3, £ 3'.) ^cii\o No. 1. £ 5(; 26 A dvertiscmen ts. H. AND T. PEAT, ^atjtJlcvs, il}arncss fWai^ers, etc«. No. 167, PICCADILLY, LONDON, AVAIL themselves of the present opjiortnnity gratefully tn acknowledge tlie patronage which they haw rfccived for so many yenrs from their numerous connexions in India, and !<► suluit a cuntimi^iKf of lli it prefrrt-nct- whrrli it has e\er been their »-niliavour to deserve. \t the same lime they beg to state, tluit from their very severe losses, they are comjielled to decline the txecution of any ordt-rs, unless accompanied by an order for payment (when shipped) upon some ageut »)r nieicantile house in London. The subjoined list of prices uill enable those gentlemen who may kindly favour H. and T. P. by their commands, to estimate the positive cost of the articles recjuired, as well as the packajres, shipping expenses, &c. It is also necessary tliiit the name of an agent at the presidencv should be given, to whom the goods are t« be consigned, as the utmost despatch will he nsed in the xliipmeiiis from London. IL and T. Peat leel bound, in jnstiice to themselves, to make it known that large (juantities of saddlery, S^c , hearing their name and address, v,hicli are n the latest regulation, and a. discount of tive per cent, allowed from the annexed charges lur cash payment. N B — H, and T. P. beg tn recommend for durability, their 10, II, and 12lb. saddles, in preference to the lighter ones of 7, 8, and (dbs., at present so much in demand for India, and likev^ise to observe, that in all cases where the goods are not insured, H and T. P. cannot be accnuutuble for any damage tliey may receive after shipment. LADIES' SADDLES. BRIDLES, &c. X s. d. Lady's saddle, v,\t\\ slipper, leather, crup- per, and girths, complete - - - 8 8 If with third crutch, or leaping head, (extra) - - - - - - - i i Lady's saddle, quilted all over, with slip- per, leather, crupper, and girths, com- plete 10 JO Lady's saddle, to ride either side, com- plete <> m tj If with third crutch or leaping head, (extra) 110 Brown leather cover for Lady's saildle - i I o Young Lady's pilch saddle, with move- able heads, girths, and clog, complete 4 4 Spanish, or Donkey chair saddle, tor In- valids or clnldren, with gin lis com- plete, from ... ^5 5 o to *l !(j 6 Lady's flat doulde btidle, covered buckles, nosehiiiui, and fancy cheek hit, complete I 1 Lady's flat I'rench martingale, to attach to noviiiand of bridle ... - Lad\\ round black or bro« n double bri- dle, Willi covered buckles, no^icbaiid, ami fancy c^'eek hit comnlete Lady '>- round black or lirown French martingale, to attach to noseband of bridle • - LaiU 's fancy rosette bridle, v\iih nose- bantl platting, cross face-piece, and steel bits, c.iinplete Set o|* fiat double heads and reins for Lady, to Inn-kle (»n .... Set tif round black or brown double heads and reins to buckle on - Lady's white cloth saddle-cloth Lady's spare white web nding reus, each GENILEMKN'S SADDLES, BRIDLES. &, Gentlemen's li<>gskin hiiuting siiddle (any weight), with giiths, leathers, and stir- rup irons, cimipleic .... Cent If men's i| ml let! -all over Somerset saddle, with girtlis, Lutlicrs, and stir* riip iroiih, coinpleie - . - . Brown leather cover lor gentleman's sad- dle Brown leather cover for Somerset sadrlle (irnttenutn's hit and bridooii bmlh , to buckle on, buckles covered, and nose band, eomplele - - . . . Cientlemaii'!* bit ami bndoon bridl*', sewn J) 6 •2 If) l'2 6 1 IS 1 1 u; n i-j (1 (i (i .S 15 6 Ili-adstall martingale Kunniiig marlni|;ale 1 18 1 (i 1 IH 1 Ki „ o l-l <1 u 1.' tl s. d. 14 6 i) ti 1 VI o 5 o Round Running Martingale _ . - Flat French martingale, to attach to noseband of bridle . . - - Snaffle bridle (twisted or plain) to buckle Oil with covered buckle conipKte Pelhain hrulle, with covered buckles and noseband, complete . . . - Chifuey double bridle, to buckle on, with covereil buckles and noseband, com- plete ....... Hanoverian or Bentinck bridle to hnckle on, with covered buckles and noseband complete --.---- Single- rein hard and sharp bridle, to buckle on, with covered buckles and nostbaml, con)]ilete - . - , Set of double heads and reins, for gentle- men, to buckle on .... Snaflle head and rein . . - - I'elliaiii head, and two reins to biiekie on I lard and sharp head, and rem to buckle on o Stufl'td hunting breastplate Short niniiing martingale, to buckle into ditto Ytning gentleman's saddle, with girths, leathers, and stirru|» irons, eomplt te - VtMing gentleman's pilch saddle, with girths and clogs, complete . . - EXERCISE AND RACING SADDLES, &c. Exercise satldle (5. 6, 7, ami 8 lbs. weight) vvith girths, leathers, and stirrup irons, compli te ..._.. \Vliite linen, woollen, or leather surcingle Race saddle (any coloured lacings nud weight) with surcingle, girth, leathers, anil stirrop irons, complete - . - Race doiiblt bndlt , best steel bit sewn on RaccsiialHe bridle, bit sewn mi, complete Spare rt 11: to buckle on • Race running martingale, with ct»\creil rnigs, eonipU te - . - • - Race saddle cloth (any colour) INI'AN'l RV INIOUNTED OR >'I AFF OFFICER. Saddle, with loops omplele - . . 5 15 (i it metal cantli to do. . . . - n to (i Pair ol liotst< rs, and patent Uather llouiice -240 RignlatiMii bridU Aitli gilt bosses - 3 3 <> Itrea-lpbile and crnpptr - . -^ O I4 (i ^Uiiie lield collar n in ti lnhinir\ !»adille cloth, edged gold lace - 4 tn n &taH' buddle cloth, edged gold lace - ti tt 1 1 12 ti It) ti U li ti 18 ti 6 ti 4 14 ti 3 13 U .s 15 6 ' b 4 14 6 1 lb « Ih 4) ti ti 1-2 ti 10 ti Advertisements. 27 HAHNESS, Slc. £ s. d. - 12 - a 10 () ' 1 1 S - ;t h . 3 (. . b a . 10 li - o 14 It - 10 (, . \1 ti . n 12 () tc ■J.S 14 S#t of best buggy harness, brass, covereil furniture, wiih brrecbiu kukinir-strap, bits, ice. cnmijKie Silver pliittil iurmture, pxlra - If Honblt' buckles to harutss, txtra Round black or brown safeiy-n in, extra Pair of brass bosst-s to bit, extra, Irom per pair, I2s. 6d. to - - Crests .... each Coronets . - - • do. Anns - . - - do, Anns and credits united - do. Fair of giir reins, flat Buggy pad-cloths . . - Silk biiggy roseitfs, per pair Whaltljont ditto dmo Setnf landem harnes-^, with crc-^ts, complete -25 Pair of ends to lengthen traces for sleigh- ing in Canada . . - - Extra long bandpart, to buckle on for sleighing -.---—< Sleigli-hells, to buckle on to bridle, per set for one hor^e -----< Set of tniriclc harness, bra«is or covered furniture. with bar and rollers, complete 2' Set of carriage or photon liarmss, uilh brass or covered furniture, complete If silver plated furniture, extra If all-over plated silver hames, extra U'douhle bnckUs to harness, extra Spare round black or biowa carriage driviiig-reigns . - - - - Ifrnunii reins instead of tlat are required with harness, extra - . - - Tug ornaments, extra, from per pair i6s. 6d. to - - - - - 1 10 Pad-ctotbs, for carriage orphoetonharness, from per pair, li. Is. to • - 3 3 Pair of flat carriage driving reins - 1 8 Four horse harness, with bus, breeehings, martingales, collars, rem», iStc, com- plete, Irom S5i« upwards Postillion saddle, vviih girth, leathers, and irons, complete - - "44 black harness crupper to ditto o i-2 hand, side, riding and leading reins - - " ~ - 1 2 whip (see whips) spurs aud leathers (see spurs) buot :io •2 •2 S 5 5 5 ■2 1'2 I 6 o 18 c 14 6 14 b 5 fi ■2 1-2 li ■2 1-2 li 1 S 1 U 3 bilk carriage or pliseloii rosetlees, per pair VVhalel)oiic ilitln ditto ililto Coupling rings, brass, plated, covered, or ivory ------■■ Grained patent leather night hood Ditto, liitto, loin-eovtT _ _ _ Macinlosli, India rubber night hood Ditlo, ditto, loin-cover ". " ~ Fooi-ruRs, of various colours, for bus:py, phcCton, and carnages, troin 7s. 6il. eacli to 1 10 HORSE CLOTHING, &c. Best Kersey horse clothing, with quarter- cloth, hrtast cloth, pad cloth, roUir, hood, littered, conipSlt, per suit - 4 U n.ttu, dlttci, nlthout ho' d do. - Jl3 While linen hor-e-cl.ilhing, «ilh quarter- cloth, breist cloth, linen roller, hood and lettered, coinplele, per suit Ditto, dltlo, vMtbi.ul hoed, per Mlit White linen sheet, lionnd hliie or scarlet o l8 Blanket horse el.. thing, with hood, as abo\e, lomplete, per suit - "33 Ditio, dltlo, vtilhoal hood, pfr suit - 2 =, Embroidered letters «xtra each -05 Emhroidereii coronets ditto - .s Embr'ildered crests ditto - (> FatvuaiidehocolHte-coloiir hor.-e blankets, eaeh -------0 1« Larger, ditto, ditto, each - - -11 11 bound roiiad 10 prevent tearing, extra each -------04 Body rollers separatel)', according to Iht: width, each, 10s. Gd , 12s. 6d., and - I4 Pair of knee caps - - - - - 7 BKUijIlES, &c. Horse brushes - - Small vvaler brushes - £ do. do. u do. do. o do. o s. d. .S 6 (> 6 4 « h « 3 o lu ti .S 6 '2 6 3 o 2 6 4 6 1 6 2 t> Middle size water brushes Large water brushes Three row spoke brushes I'our row do. Oil brushes lil.ickiiig brushes . - per set liisiile or lining brushes • each Ornament or crest brushes • do. (%ni(po brushes - - do. Dirt brushes - - do. Bristle brushes - - do. lilt brushes - • do. Boot-top brushes • • do. Servants' shoe-brush case, with bottles, brushes. Sic. - - - -2 15 O BITS, &c. F'laiu riding - bit and curb Il.inoverian or Beiilinck do. Chllney - - kin hnntinu case, lined with tin, to carry cigars, wine, and sandwich, each- I4 (j Tin cases, to fit inlanlry holster, for the same purpose, tach - - - O 10 6 flreybound slips - per pair I .S " Si'ring dug couples - do. 4 6 Tinned dog couples and straps do. 4 6 Leather dog collars with brass buckles, D's and plates, irom Is. 6d. each to - i-2 (J Steel dog chains, - - each 6 tJ Tinned dog chains with spring books, do. 3 Spare curb chain and spring hooks -04 Stirrup irons - - per pair o 8 Stirrup leathers - do. 9 Girths, (white, blue, chocolate or fawn colour) - - do. 6 York girths, each - • - o 10 Young gentlpmen's clogs per pair 7 Steel hussar irons - do. o 10 Brass do. - - do. 10 Mnssar stirrup leathers - do. 12 Coat straps - - do. 1 Small leather valise, with pad straps and crupper, to fasten behind saddle - 2 5 V\'aterdeck and surcingle Leather Imlster wallets, with surcingle to fasten on the front of saddle, for carr>'- ing change of linen, pistols. Sec. Leather travelling cnll.ir, and rein to answer for riding bridle Leather riding rein for do. with steel stop Packing ca-es, each, from 7«. 6d. to If lined with tin or zinc, each, (extra) from lOs 6d. to - - - 1 O *,* The Shipping Expenses and Insurance upon packages containing one saddle and its appoint- ments, il. 15s. ; Lady'sditto, 21.2s, ; and for every additional saddle, 15s. extra. 1 12 3 5 o 13 7 1 DIHN]SIt SSRVICSS, TABZiX! OIiASS, &c. SANDEE AND Co., 3 1 © is mil 3 3®, 1£ ^1.1S OM 3', COUNEIl OF SOUTHAMPTON BUILDINGS, and OPPOSITE GRAYS INN GATE, HAVE CONSTANTLY ON VIEW TSIE I^A21«-EST STOCK. IX I.«:^^lJiO:!¥ OF Table Glass, plainly or elesrantly cut; Dinner, Dessert, Breakfast and Tea Services and Toilei sots in Cliina, Ironstone, and Earthenware; Ornamoutal China, Pii[)i('r Machu and Iron Tea Trays ; Chaudt-liers, Lustres, .\rj.'and. Solar and Vesta Lamps; Hall Lanterns, stained or plain; Alabaster Figures, Vases, &c. Parties favoring this Establishment with a visit, will obtain every informa- tion relative to Prices, and will not be inipurtuucd to make purchases. Goods delive7'ed in Toivii and at the Docks, Cartage Free. ROWLANDS FOR THE HAIR! T HE SKIN! 86 T HE TEETH! The preparations of A. ROWLAND & SON, for the several purposes undermentioned, have long been renowned, and are universally held in high estimation for their efficient yet mild operation. The august patronage con- ceded by our Gracious Queen, the Royal Family, and the several Sovereigns and Courts of Europe, and the numerous testimonials constantly received of their etBcacy, together with the fact of their general use in all countries, characterize them with perfection, and prove the value of the Macassar Oil, Kalydor, and Odonto. ROWLAND'S MACASSAR OIL Is a delightfully fragrant and transparent preparation for the hair; and, as an invigorator and beautifier, is beyond all precedent. It bestows the most brilliant gloss, together with a strong tendency to curl, and is the only known specific capable of effectually sustaining the hair in decorative charm, from the heat of crowded rooms, or the effects of a damp atmosphere. CAUTION.— The words "Rowland's Macassar Oil" are engraven on the Wrapper, and on the back of the Wrapper 1,500 times, containing 29,028 letters — without this none are gf.nuine. Price 3s. 6d.— 7s., or Family Bottles (equal to four small), 10s. 6d., and double that size '2ls. per bottle. ROWLANDS KALYDOR Is an odoriferous creamy Liquid — the only safe and efficacious preparation for dissipating Tan, Freckles, Pimples, Blotches, Spots, and other Disfigure- ments of the Skin. The radiant bloom it imparts to the Cheek, and the softness and delicacy it induces on the Hands, Arms, and Neck, render it indispensable to every Toilet. — Price 4s. 6d. and 8s. 6d. per bottle. *^* CAUTION.— Beware of IMITATIONS of the most deleterious character, under the title of >' genuine," KALYDOR, containing mineral astringents utterly ruinous to the complexion, and by their repellent action endan<'erin All Others are FRAUDULENT IMITATIONS ! ! ! The genuine articles are sold by the Proprietors as above, and by Ciicmistt and Perfumtrs. 30 Advertisements. mm'w.Uo mwmwE mm>Awmw> ^ (D@os, HER MAJESTY'S PUBLISHERS IN ORDINARY, Have the honor to announce that they are preparing for immediate Publica- tion, by Subscription, an Engraving of THE PORTRAIT OF MAJOR-GENERAL SIR ROBERT SALE, G. C. B. QUARTER-MASTER GENERAL OF THE ARMY IN INDIA. Colonel of Her Majesty's 13th Regiment of Light Infantry, &c. &c. FROM THE ORIGINAL PICTURE PAINTED BY HENRY MOSELEY, Esq., AND TO BE ENGRAVED IN THE FINEST STYLE OF MEZZOTINTO, By henry cousins, Esq. This interesting Portrait has, by special command, been submitted to the inspection of Her Majesty the Qceen and His Royal Highness Prince Albert, who were graciously pleased to express their unquali6ed approbation of its merits as a faithful resemblance, and a fine work of art. Messrs. Henry Graves and Co. have great pleasure in being the medium of delighting the public with a faithful likeness of a man whose happy return to this country has been hailed with cordial welcome by every class of Her ^Majesty's subjects. Price : — First Proof, with Autograph, £3 3s. ; Second Proofs, £2 2s. ; Prints, £1 Is. Size of the Plate 17 Inches by 23 Inches High. LONDON: PUBLISHED BY HENRY GRAVES AND COMPANY, Printsellers and Publishers, by Special Appointment to Her Majesty and His Royal Highness Prince Albert. 6, PALL MALL. GUNS AND FISTOZiS OF ALL KINDS MANUFACTCRKD BY BECKWITH AND SON, GUN MAKERS TO THE HONOURABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY, 58, SKINNER STREET, SNOW IIILL, ESTABLISHED NEARLY 50 I'EARS. A variety of Guns, Pistols, Rifles, &c., in stock, suitable for Cadets and Officers in the Cmnpany's Service. Advertisements. 31 WORTHY OF NOTICE TO THOSE WHO DESIRE COMFORT IN WALKING. EIiASTZC BOOTS AND SXSOSS, FOR LADIES AND GENTLEMEN, Are the only ones adapteil to the structure and functions of the human foot, — especially suited for Warm Climates from their flexibility. The numerous orders for India has induced the Patentee to make arrange, menfs with Messrs. JAMES BARBER and Co., East India Aumy Agents, 17, St. Mary Axe, London, who will furnish supplies through their Agents in the several Presidencies. HE HAS MUCH PLEASURE IN REFERRING TO THOSE WHO HAVE USED THE PATJEWT «Oi»T!i» Al^O §IIOK!>l. See testimonials and observations, to be had at the PATENTEE'S 455, WEST STRAKD, Z.ONDON, And at his Licencees in Town and Country, and iMr. John T. Bell, Bombay. PURE iLIO'D COOI. WATER. TlEm WATrnW^T WA^HI^ irilJL^Iimi^ MADE BY LIPSCOMBE AND CO., Are warranted to soften hard water, and to remove colour, taste, and smell, and render perfectly brilliant rain, river, pond, and all other waters. They have been in extensive use for many years, and are well known to be the most eS'ectual, convenient, and durable Filters ever invented. In warm climates, where good vfholesome water is seldom to be met with, they will be found most invaluable, as they not only render the most stagnant water clear and sparkling as the finest spring, but also keep the water very cool. They are convenient in size for travelling, very simple in their con- struction, not liable to get out of order, and will last for many years, — a desideratum not to be found in others. 308. eacli. MANUFACTURERS TO HER MAJESTY AND THE ROYAL FAMILY, 9'S, BteycuVs 4i,9iailfnnt, Ijonilon, Established upwards of 20 years. 32 Advertisemei.ts. DOLPHIN HOTEL, HIGH STREET, SOUTHAMPTON. MAHY GUY, POSTING MISTRESS, BY AHPOINTMUNT TO l^ir iiHaii^is. BRETTS' HOTEL, (THE ROYAL GEORGE), HIGH STREET, SOVTKiLlVIPTON, UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF THE PENINSULAR AND ORIENTAL COMPANY. Passengers to India viA Egypt, will find this Hotel particularly con- venient, being contiguous to the Docks and Railway Terminus. HENRY BRETT, anxious to ensure the comfort of his Patrons, begs respectfully to suggest that their orders to secure Apartments would be advisable, and will at all times meet his best attention. Advertisements. 3li ROYAL MUSIC INSTITUTION, No. 6, NEW BURLINGTON-STIIEET, LONDON, I.ATK THE MANSION OF THE DOWAGER COUNTESS OF CORK AND ORRERY. R. COCKS & Co., TO THE QUEEN'S MOST EXCELLENT MAJESTY, Very respectfully take leave to inform the Nobility, Gentry, the Musical Profession, and the Public, that they have REMOVED their establishment to the above spacious premises, and they take the present opportunity to return their sincere and grateful thanks for the distinguished patronage they have hitherto enjoyed during the last 22 years, and earnestly hope to merit its continuance by strict attention to future favours. Jan. 1, 1845, BRIGHTON HOUSE. families visiting brighton will find Mrs. M. a. PERFETT'S BOARDING ESTABLISHMENT, 18, GERMAN PLACE, (Formerly kept by the late Mrs. DAY), Possesses all the comforts of a private house. The house commands a good view of the sea, is near the Baths, and is sufficiently sheltered, so as to render it a desirable winter residence, and is within a short distance of the Railway Terminus. Individuals and Families arriving from India, are recommended to write from Malta, vul Marseilles, post paid, stating the number of their party, and answers will be forwarded to the steamer on her arrival at Southampton. T£XtIM[S MEODER.ATE. c 34 Advertisements. To Gentlemen in the Civil, Military, or Naval departments of the Honourable East India Company's Services. J. STOVEL, REGIMENTAL TAILOR, &c. Finding that his Indian connexion has in the last few years considerably increased, has resolved, for the convenience of his Friends, to add to the Tailoring, all the other Branches of an Outfitting Business; and he begs to inform Military and Naval Officers, Civilians, Cadets, and Assistant-Surgeons proceeding to India, that he undertakes to supply them with every requisite both fur the Voyage and for their use upon arrival at their destination. It will be the study of J. S. to supply such articles and such only as will be found necessary and useful to each party in the position they are destined to occupy; and while he pledges himself to pay due regard to economy in the execution of every order intrusted to him, he would freely express his opinion that it is more needful that every thing of the best description should be supplied for an Outfit than for home wear, inasmuch as the difficulties of obtaining a fresh supply in India are much greater than they are here. The arrangements J. S. has made with the Manufacturers of the various articles requisite for an Outfit, enables him to assert, that at no House in the Outfitting Business can Gentlemen be supplied on more reasonable terms than he is able to supply them, and at the same time they have a guarantee as to quality; for the supplying of an inferior article to anyone of J. S.'s customers would entail upon the Manufacturers not merely the loss of that one, but of the numerous orders they might have received through his Agency. J. S. has inserted below a Copy of a Circular issued by him in 1843, under the Sanction of the Clothing Board for Her Majesty's Army; and he would only add that GENTLEMEN RETURNING FROM INDIA CAN BE SUPPLIED VFITH A COMPLETE SUIT, MADE IN THE MOST APPROVED STYLE, IN TWENTY-FOUR HOURS, AT HIS ESTABLISHMENT, 1, Suffolk Place, Pall Mall East, London. "The Board of General Officers for inspecting and regulating the Clothing of the Army having minutely examined a new method of cutting Trowsers, submitted to them by J. STOVEL. Regimental Tailor, &.c., 1, Suffolk Place, Pall Mall East, in November last, have reported to the Adjutant- General their entire approval of it. HIS GRACE THE COMMANDER- IN-CHIEF also, having examined and approved a pattern submitted to him, has been pleased to command that it should be sealed and deposited in the Office for Military Boards, Whitehall Yard, to be followed by all Cavalry Regiments. "The advantages Trowsers cut on this plan possess over those cut in the ordinary way, are that they fit the body more neatly and exactly in every position, and while they set closer in the Fork, they allow at the same time a greater freedom of stride, which renders them more pleasant both for walking and riding. " 1, Suffolk Place, Pall Mall East, London." Advertisements. 35 SMOKING APPARATUS. JOHN TNDERWICK, & Co., 58, PZLINCI:S-STH.1:z:T. COVENTILY-STZtSST, LONDON, BKG TO INFORM GENTLEMEN TRAVELLING TO INDIA, THAT THKY HAVE JUST RECEIVED A FINE ASSORTMENT OF MEERSCHAUM PIPES From the Crimea ia Asia Minor, of the purest quality, and at very moderate prices. These Pipes have lately acquired, havini^ been j)atronised by the most eminent physicians of London and Paris, from beinj^ an absorbent mineral, which extracts the saltpelrous properti'^s that all tobaccos more or less contain, and which is known to be injurious to the constitution, has induced foreigners to send over SPVEtZOlTS ZlVIITikTZOIfS, Extremely like in appearance, but really possessing no one quality of the Meerschaum, In order to prevent as much as possible the deceptions thus practised, J. L and Co. beg to acquaint their patrons that all Meerschaum Pipes sold by them are warranted of the finest quality, and quite FR,£Z: FB.OAII ADUIiTBJELATXOM. J. L and Co., in addition to the above, have always on hand a large collection of every other description of Pipe, includinu; liast India Hookahs and Persian Kalyhaus; also a splendid assortment ot finely-painted Dresden- Porcelain Pipes, which they mount in every style, and likewise fit into cases, for the convenience of GENTLEMEN TRAVELLING TO THE EAST. iV. JB. — A profitable opportunity is now open to Merchants trading to China. REGIMENTAL MESS-PLATE. TO PRESIDENTS AND OFFICERS OF MESS COMMITTEES. JOHN COVVIE, of Holies-Street, during the last twenty-six *^ years, has had the honour of furnishing several Regiments with MESS SERVICES, who, on the completion of their orders, have kindly granted him written Testimonials of their approval. He is still solicitous to obtain the favourable consideration of Officers who may be entirely or partially supplying their Mess with Meat Dishes and Covers, Corner Dishes and Warmers, and such requisites as constitute the Table Service. J. C. has a variety of Table Services, en suite, the whole of them warranted of Sheffield manufacture. 11, HOLLES STREET, CAVENDISH-SQUARE, LONDON. 36 Advertisements. (h'^^WTi^ If ®ia asjiDaA ^srn) (eiiiasr^» Messrs. THRESHER and GLENNY Respectfully announce that every kind of Clothing, both for Ladies' and Gentlemen, is manufactured by them, and that Outfits to all parts of the World are supplied at the wholesale Cash prices. Outfits for Military and Naval Officers, Writers, Cadets, Assistant Surgeons, and others, appointed to India or China, comprising Shirts, Hosiery, Gloves, Light Clothing, Military Accoutrements, Trunks, Cabin Furniture, and every requisite, are prepared with the strictest eco- nomy, and Lists of the necessary Outfits for each, with numbers, prices, and every particular may be had on application. THE LADIES' DEPARTMENT comprises every description of Ladies' Linen, embracing Outfits for India, and tliK Colonies. Wedding Trosseaus, Table and Household Linen, Linen for general use, Hosiery, Gloves, and every kind of wearing apparel ; and Estimates, with correct lists of the necessary Outfits, may be had at 152, Strand, or will be forwarded to any part of the country. THRESHER'S INDIA GAUZE WAISTCOATS. This most essential Article of India Clothing possesses all the advantages, without any of the inconveniencies of Flannel Waistcoats. The texture is exceedingly light, soft and delicate, and, as an absorbent, it is superior to the finest Flannels, and perfectly free from every irritating or disagreeable quality. These Waistcoats are strongly recommended by Medical men, as the most effectual preventative of the innumerable diseases which arise from check of perspiration, and to which residents in warm climates are so particularly liable. They are Manufactured by, and can only be procured from Thresher AND Glenny, 152, Strand, London, and it is very important to notice that every separate article is marked Thresher's India Gauze, as no other material possesses the same advantageous qualities. OVERLAND ROUTE TO INDIA. Outfits for this Route are prepared at the shortest notice, and Thresher's Water])roof Trunks and Air-tight Cases, Manufactured expressly for the Overland Route, and patronised and approved by the several Comjiauies engaged, can only be procured at — THRESHER AND GLENNY S EAST INDIA AND GENERAL OUTFITTING WAREHOUSE, 152, STRAND, NEXT DOOR TO SOMERSET HOUSE, Advertisements. 37 INDIA, EGYPT, MALTA. WATERPROOF TRUNKS, AIR-TIGHT CASES, CARPET BAGS, &c. Together with every requisite for Outfits for the above routes, both for Ladies' and Gentlemen, are supplied by — THRESHER AND GLENNY, EAST INDIA AND GENERAL OUTFITTERS, Next Door to Somerset House, LONDON. Estimates and detailed lists of Outfits, vpilh numbers, prices, and every particular, may be had on application. °^° PIB ATT'S PATENT COMPENDIUM PORTMANTEAU. OVERLAND TO INDIA. The Nobility, Gentry, and Officers joining their Regiments, arc respect- fully invited to select their OUTFITS from — PRATT'S CAMP AND TRAVELLING EQUIPAGE SHOW ROOMS, 123, New Bond-street, and 19, Cockspur-street, previous to starting for India. The personal requisites for the journey can easily be contained in two of the PATENT COMPENDIUM PORTMANTEAUS, which afford greater convenience for packing than any hitherto inventi'd, combines with it an expanding bag, and opens at once to four compartments, so essentially necessary for packing clothes without pressure; also the LIGHT PORTABLE METALLIC BEDSTEAD, with the patent musquito netting and beildin' a good polish, it must be rubbed otf again with pumice stone, ana the leather smoothed down : — the coating to commence as before. IV. — \A hen once in good order, an occasional thin coat will suffice. Tile common mistake is the laying on loo much of the Jet, thus not only spoiling the general ap- pearance of the Pouches as well as causing waste of material, but also rendering them liable to crack* V. — The sponges must be perfectly clean and drf, and it is »er>' importaytt to shake the Jet well together before using, and to keep the tin or bottle closely corked. VL— If, when the Pouch gets dry, it is found that grit or dirt of any kind has been left in the spnnge, and that it is rough in consequence, it will be sufficient to pass the glass-p^per over the surface of the leather to remove the inequalities, and then a thin coal of the varnibh will restore a perfect polish to the Flap. VII. — Previously to, and after applying the Jet (it being so very susceptible of damp)^ and in order to obtain a superior and more lasting polish, the Pouch should be placed in the sun, or at a distance from the fire, ihat it may get thoroughly aired If these directions are strictly attended to— for they apply equally to all MILITARY ACCOUTkEMENTs, and. so far ^s they are practicable, to HARNESS and LEATHER WORK generally— a polish to surpass in appearance *' Patent Leather" may be ob- tained : which last-named, if delaced, can be renovated by smoothing it down with glass-paper, and applying the Jet as directed. VIII. — The spong*) should be kept from the air, to pre- vent its becoming hard, and if tins are used, it can be placed over the cork iuside, or be kept in a small tin box. The Authorities at the Horse Guards^ after a careful examination of returns made from many Regiments^ calculated the expense (after the pouch is once in order) at three-halfpence per week per man. The first cost of getting the pouch in order is also much less than the old heeUball process, *** It canuot be too strongly impressed, that the addition of the smallest portion of Water or Spirit will destroy the quality of the Jel, and produce a Milky appearance on the Leather. TTiat the difficulty of application cannot be great, is evident from the fact that Marder's Jet is now used by 75,000 of the yueeu's Troops, iucluding the Guards, in fact by nearly all who have ever seen it. The superiority of its appearance is so manifest, that we believe, in every case where Hegimenls adopting it have been brigaded with those still using hcel-ball, the old practice has been discontinued, 1 he Certifica(e-> printed in the June number of this Journal state fully the properties of this liquid, and emanating as they do from high authority, it will be superfluous for us to enlarge upon the subject. Under an arrangement with the Proprietor, we have secured to ourselves the exclusive supply for India, by which means the Armv will be certain of reciiviug through us the genuine article, in place of a deleterious compmunJ with which it has to contend. We shall confine ourselves to direct orders for supply. Any, therefore, purchased at third hands, or in the Hazaars, will not be WARDER'S \VA TERPROOP JET. Sample cases may be obtained from Mr. John T. Bell, Bombay; Messrs. Franck and Co. Madras; Messrs. Cair Tagote, and Co., Calcutta; price llu Rupees each case, containing Four One-CJallon Cans of Jet. Two Ouart Pewter Bottles^ with screw stopper. One Hundred Two-Ounce Fins, with Corks and Sponges, and fnll directions for its use. The Cans are and will always be seated with the Proprietor's seal, the outer cases with that of JAMES BARBER AND CO. Onicrs received direct from India, for not less than ten gallons, will be executed promptly, if accompanied by a remittance or reference for payment on delivery of the Bill of Lnding, Price Twenty Rupees per gallon, including iasurance, freight, landing charges, duty, and all expenses at either I'residency, or Ceylon. We may meution that Regiments using this Jet supply themselves as an outfit for each Company with— One Ouiirt PewtiT bottle. One liundred Two-ounce cans. One Hundred Sponges. One Pewter measure. One Tin Funnel. JAMES BARBER & Co. 7, Leadcnliall Street. Messrs. Wm. H. ALLEN & Co.'s SELECT LIST OF WOIIKS ON INDIA, &C. Published immediately on the Arrival of each Overland Mail, price Is., postage free, ai.i.i:n's inbian iyiaii., AND REGISTER OF INTELLIGENCE FROM BRITISH & FOREIGN INDIA, CHINA, AND ALL PARTS OF THE EAST. In this paper (the utility of which is now attested by the ex- perience of nearly two years) will be found the fullest and most accurate information of all occurrences of importance in the coun- tries to which it is devoted ; government orders and notifications in every department, a faithful record of Civil, Ecclesiastical, Mili- tary, and Marine appointments, promotions, furloughs, &c. ; no- tices of Births, Marriages, and Deaths, arrivals and departures, and other events of domestic and family interest; ample and minute intelligence respecting Shipping, Passengers, and Freights; Reports of the state of the Markets, Prices of Public Securities, and Rates of Exchange — compiled partly from the local newspapers, but in a great degree from private and exclusive sources. In addition to the above, it is intended in future to give a precis of all Home In- telligence having relation to the East, or interesting to those con- nected with that quarter. As from an early period in the ensuing year {1843) there will be two arrivals from India in each month, instead of one, as here- tofore, it is proposed, with reference to this extension, to publish two numbers of Allen's Indian Mail in each month, (one on the arrival of each overland mail,) thus adhering to the principle on which the Journal was established, of affording to its subscribers the earliest information possible. LONDON:— Wm. H. ALLEN & Co., 7, Leadenhall Street. Wm. H. ALLEN & CO., 4C A History of Cbina, From the Earliest Records to the Treaty with Great Britain in I84'2. By Thomas Thornton, Esq. Vol. I. 8vo. with large Map, 16s. *** Vols. IL and III., completing the work, are in the press. "This history, from its completeness, we apprehend will supersede all others, and rise to the importance of a standard Work." — Britannia. " A well-written history of that singular people, presented to the world under the Wl most favourable auspices." — Atlas. cult as f, I.- mac or 7 AND ( remit iaiuri V Tbe History of the Britlsb Empire in Zndiat J"''i By Edward Thornton, Esq. Now complete in 6 vols. 8vo. eLs cloth lettered, £4f. 16s. look "If any work can make Indian History popular in England, it will be Thorn- smoo ton's. It is a work highly creditable, not less to the abilities than to the candour "• and integrity of its Author." — Conservative Journal, spoil gets III Iliad does with "fv Being the only connected Narrative of the late occurrences in «'", Afghanistan, Sinde, and Gwalior. By Edward Thornton, pear. tsq. 8vo. cloth lettered, 16s. male .^v- •,* This Work forms the sixth and concluding volume of using Mr. Thornton's History, which it brings down to the termina- tion of Earl Ellenborough's administration. India under Ziord Auckland and Earl Ellenborougb, A Gazetteer , Of the Countries adjacent to India on the North- West, com- ■" prising SINDE, AFGHANISTAN, BELOOCHISTAN, in c The Punjab, and neighbouring Hill States. By Edward . ^ Thornton, Esq. 2 vols. 8vo., with Map, cloth lettered, • 25s. " A Work of marked merit, and which deserves a place in every library, vrhether public or private, as indispensable for reference." — Globe. " This Work is, in short, what all Gazetteers ought to be, a minute history of 1 the particular divisions of the globe selected, alphabetically divided. The Gaaet- of till teer seems to us complete." — Britannia. is so hc.l- 1 as th Cbapters niian of the Modcm History of British India. By Edward Thorn- hl"X TON, Esq. 8vo., cloth, iJl. Is. s Tago 7, LEADENHALL STREET. 3 Tbe Hand-Boole of India: A Guide to the Strantrer and Traveller, and a Companion to the Resident. By J. H Stocuuei.f.k, Esq., late Editor of the Calcutta Englishman. Post 8vo. cloth lettered, lis. *;,;* This publication emhraces, in a condensed form, com- plete and accurate information respecting the Topo;;raphy, Climate, Government. Commerce, Laws, Institutions, and Products of India; the Manners and Customs of the Inhabit- ants; the method of travelling throughout the Empire and the expense attendant thereon ; the condition of the European (English) Society; the Rules and Regulations of the various branches of the Executive ; the cost and manner of proceeding to India; the Sports, Ceremonies, and Pageants common to the Country, &c. &c. " There can be no hesitation in saying that the plan and execution of this Hand- Book are equally excellent; that it is the most complete and accurate Vade- Mecum which has yet appeared, and cannot fail to be both interesting and useful to all those whom business or pleasure may send to India."— K/vend of India. " We can safely recommend this ' Guide," as one which will impart a correct no- tion of all those parts of the continent of British India which are the principal places of resort of Englishmen proceeding from this country to enter the service of Go- vernment, or embark in Commercial, Agricultural, or other pursuits."— .r^ I. rati loot II spot m G . Wm. H. ALLEN & CO., Ttaugrs of India. Illustrations of the History and Practices of the Thugs, and Notices of some of the Proceedings of the Government of India <■ for the Suppression of the Crime of Thuggee. 8vo. cloth, 13s. Customs of tbe Mussulmans of India. By Jaffuk Shurheef, a natis'e of the Deccan, composed under the direction of and translated by G. A. Her- W KioTTs, M.D., Surgeon on the Madras Establishment. In 1 vol. Svo., 16s. cloth boards, lettered. *,* This Work comprises a full and exact account of the various Rites and Ceremonies of the JMoosulmans of India, ?"•• from the moment of Birth to the hour of Death, including lifsu their Fasts and Festivals (particularly the Mohurrum); their Vows and Oblations for every IMonth in the Year; their differ- ent Tribes and Sects, Saints, and Devotees; Religious Tenets, Prayers, and Ablutions ; the Calculation of Nativities, Necro- ''^ mancy, E.xorcism, Casting out Devils, &c. &c. &c. blac dne« witt ~f^ 'V7orks for Cadets — will »>>«' 1. A few A\ ords ot Advice to Cadets and otlier Young Persons mai proceeding to India. By Capt. Henry Kerr, late Com- .,^^ mandant of Cadets at Calcutta. Second Edition, post 8vo. HMO cloth, OS. 2. Hints to Cadets, with a Few Observations on the Military Service of the Honourable East- India Company. By Lieut. PosTANs, Bombay Army. Post Svo. cloth, 3s. 6d. ma > J J ' 0|., 3. 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By Jehangeer Nowrojee and Hirjeebhot Mer- WANJEE, of Bombay. Post 8vo. cloth, 12s. " \n extraordinary production." — Times. Atkinson's Aff^hanistan. The Expedition into Affghanistan : Notes and Sketches de- scriptive of the Campaign of 18.39 and ISii, up to the Sur- render of Dost Mahomed Khan. By James Atkinson, Esq. Post Bvo, cloth, 10s. 6d. " We have perused with pleasure the Work by Mr. Atkinson, Superintending Surgeon of the Army of the Indus. It is, as it professes to be, a clear, succinct, and well-written narrative of the extraordinary march of the army from Ferozepore to Cabool, a march exceeding 10(10 miles. Mr. Atkinson has long been favourably known to the Indian community as a pleasing and correct Author; and we think he has executed the task he has undertaken, of recording the gallant deeds of our brave soldiers, in a clear and agreeable manner." — Era. Amot's Grammar. A Grammar of the Hindustani Tongue in the Oriental and Roman character: by the late Sandford Arnot. To which is added, a Selection of easy Extracts for reading in the Persi- Arabic and Devanagari Characters ; with a copious Vocabulary and Explanatory Notes: by Duncan Forbes, A.M. A new edition, royal 8vo. cloth, 10s. 6d. Forbes's Reader. The Hindustani Reader, adapted for Beginners ; with a co- pious Vocabtdary and Explanatory Notes. By Di;ncan Forbes, A.M. Svo. sewed, 3s. 6d. •,* This Work is contained in the above Grammar. Persian Grammar. A Grammar of the Persian Language ; to which are subjoined several Dialogues; with an Alphabetical List of the Persian and English Terms of Grammar; and an Appendix on the use of Arabic Words. By Meerza Mohammad Jbraheem. Royal 8vo. bds. £\. Is. 10 Wrt. H. ALLEN & CO. 4( muc peai nat V i> « uain mc Messrs. ALLEN & CO.'S CATALOGUE of CHARTS for the Navigation of tlie Eastern Seas may be liad, gratis, on ap- plication at 7, Leadenhall-street. The following form a portion of their NEW CHARTS recentfy issued. Chart of the Indian Ocean, Extending from the Cape of Good Hope to Calcutta, including the Red Sea and Persian Gulf. Compiled from tiie Surveys of •^ the Officers of the East-India Company and Royal Navy, by cul J. Walker. On two large sheets, 10s. "•' *»* This Chart has also Table and False Bays, the Mauri- tius, Bombay Harbour, and the Gulf of Aden, given on much ,. extended scales. bv Chart of the Indian and Pacific Ocean, 5i" Extending from Calcutta to China, Australia, and New Zea- •'»'' land. Compiled chiefly from Surveys of the Officers of the II East-India Company and the Royal Navy, by John Walker. JPJi Two sheets, 12s. biac Chart of the South-East Coast of China, from IVIacao to ^^y the Yang-tze-Kean^ and Chnsan Islands, coal including separate Plans of the Ports open to British Trade, will according to the present Treaty with the Chinese. Also the Inland Navigation between Nanking and Chusan. Compiled mat by John Walker, Geographer to the East-India Company. On two large sheets, lOs. 6d. Chart of the Eastern Passages to China, Sheets 4 and 5, including the North Coast of Australia, and all the Passages between Solomon Islands, Torres Straits, Barrier Reefs, &c. 10s. 6d. General Chart of the River Hooghly, 0»'< And the Approaches to it from False Point to Calcutta. Com- ifl piled from the latest Surveys of Captain Llovd and others, by J. Walker. 7s. * Chart of the Southern Part of the China Sea, Comprehending the Straits of Sin^'apore, Dnrian, Banca, Sunda, Gaspa, Carimata, &c. By John Walker. 7s. 6d. General Chart from Engrland to China, oft' Including the Indian Seas; inscribed to James Horsburgh, F. R. S. , he. Intended for Passengers to prick off their track. On one large sheet, price 7s. 6d., or on cloth bd. 10s. Gd., or on " ' cloth bd. and coloured, 12s. I^jll Chart of the English Channel, ban With separate Plans of the Principal Harbours, and a Book of ^ Sailing Directions. By John Walker. I2s. AN 7, LEADENHALL STREET. 11 Tbe India Directory; Or, Directions for Sailing to and from the East- Indies, China, Australia, and the interjacent Ports of Africa and South America. Compiled chiefly from Original Journals of the Honourable Company's Ships, and from the Observations and Remarks resulting from the Experience of Twenty-one Years in the Navigation of those Seas. By Jasies Horsburgh, Esq., F.R.S.,&c. &c. Fifth Edition. JJ vols. 4to., cloth lettered, ^£4.. 6s. Horsburg:li's Cbarts, For the Navigation from England to India and China, and throughout the Eastern Seas, viz. — 1. North Atlantic Ocean, 6s. 2. South Atlantic Ocean, 7s. 6d. 3. Anchorage at Gough's Island, 2s. 4. Bird's Islands and Doddington Rock, 3s. 6d. 5 & G. Cape of Good Hope, S. E. Africa, and Madagascar Seas, 2 sheets, 10s. 6d. 7. Indian Ocean, 7s. Gd. 8. Arabian Sea and East Africa, 7s. Gd. 9. Hindoostan Coasts and Islands, 7s. 6d. 10. Bombay Harbour, 10s. 6d. 11. 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MAPS OF B'DIA AND CHINA. -, All from the latest Surveys, and Drawn by John Walker. ^~ A xrewly-constructed and Improved Map of India ; Compiled chiefly from Surveys executed l)y Order of tlie Hon, East- India Company- IS-tk On six sheets, size 5 ft. 3 in. wide, 5 ft. 4 in. high, £2. I2s. 6d. ; or, on cloth, in a case, £3. 1.3s. 6d. *** In the compilation of this Map, all the latest surveys in Affghanistan have been inserted. Map of India ; ^ From the most recent -Authorities, 1844. On two sheets, size as I 2 ft. 10 in. wide, 3 ft. 3 in. high, 18s.; or, on cloth, in a case, 25s. 1. Map of Aff^banistan and the Adjacent Countriesi nnd by Compiled from the latest Surveys of these Countries, by the 5au Officers attached to the Indian Army; and published by ^ authority of the Hon. Court of Directors of the East- India II Company. On one sheet, size 2 it. 3 in. wide, 2 ft. 9 in. high, g^ 9s. ; or, on cloth, in a case, 12s. I blac dnef will mu( Map of tbe TVestern Provinces of Hindoostan, tbe Punjab, witi Cabool, Sinde, &.c. ; \) Including all the States between Candaharand Allahabad. 184t. On four sheets, size 4 ft. 4 in. wide, 4ft. 2 in. high, £1. lis. 6d. ; P'=' or, on cloth, in a case, £2. os. mat ' ' ' V u t Map of the Overland Routes between Eng^land and India, usiit With the other Lines of Communication. On one sheet, size 2 ft. 9 in. wide, 2 ft. 2 in. high. 9s. ; or, on cloth, in a case, 12s. Map of tbe Houtes in India ; tnt With Tables of Distances between the Principal Towns and Qj; IVIilitary Stations, 1844. On one sheet, size 2 ft. 3 in. wide, 2 ft. 9 in. high, 9s. ; or, on cloth, in a case, 12s. Map of Cbina ; From the most Authentic Information. 1844. One large sheet, size 2 ft. 7 in. wide, 2 ft. 2 in. high, 8s. ; or, on cloth, in a case, lis. oft' is s hee mo Map of India and Cbina, Burmab, Siam, tbe Malay Peninsula, and tbe Empire of Anam. 1844. On two sheets, size 4 ft. 3 in. wide, 3 ft. 4 in. high, £l. is. ; 01 on cloth, in a case, £1. 10s. T^ LONDON :— Wm. H. ALLEN & Co., 7, Leadenhall Street. Ta, AN na UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY BERKELEY Return to desk from which borrowed. This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. LIBRARY USE JUL C-1953 27Aug60CT REC'D L-!J» AUG 26 I960 22 APR 'KICK rECD CD APR 8B61 JAN 4 1363 uEC 7 I QZ>^ LD 21-100m-7,'52(A2528sl6)476 M311718 YOO^C^SS