THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 /^ 
 
 /Z 7^7 
 
 \
 
 ^.r 
 
 ^1. 
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA.
 
 SPORT 
 
 ABYSSINIA; 
 
 The Mareb and Tackazzee. 
 
 BY 
 
 THE EARL OF MAYO, 
 
 LIEUTENANT, GRENADIER GUARDS. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 
 1876.
 
 rn , 
 
 
 
 DEDICATED 
 
 D
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 I PRESENT this book to the Public simply as an 
 account of what I did and saw ; and the impressions 
 the different events and scenes made upon my mind. 
 
 I have written it from notes and my daily Journal. 
 The stories that are in it were told me, some by 
 Natives, others by Europeans ; either over the camp 
 tire, or to while away the tedium of a long march, or 
 the cnmii of life on board ship. 
 
 These tales must be taken as they are written ; they 
 amused me much at the time, and if they only 
 interest my readers I shall be content. 
 
 I hope to revisit Abyssinia, but under more 
 favourable auspices ; and trust that better luck may 
 attend me. 
 
 I have spelt the names of places as they are pro- 
 noimccd, having had them repeated over several times 
 to me by our excellent interpreter, Peter Brou. 
 
 Vidoria Street, Lorulon, 1870. 
 
 d2
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PACE 
 CAIRO — THE KHEDIVE "AT HOME" — THE PYRAMIDS — PETROS, 
 
 OUR CONDUCTOR — SUEZ — OUR PROVISIONS— THE START FROM 
 SUEZ — ON BOARD THE DESSOOK — SOUAKIM — A USEFUL WEA- 
 PON — MASSOWAH — NATIVE FISHERMEN — PEARLS — OUR FIRST 
 ENCAMPMENT — ARTIFICIAL SHADE — "MY BATTERY" — "EN 
 ROUTE" — ON CAMEL-BACK — THE FIRST SHOT — AND MISS — 
 A NEW METHOD OF LOADING — PICK-A-BACK — THE RESULT — 
 ARREKEL BEY — WATER SUPPLY — OUR PARTY DIVIDES — A 
 VULTURE TRAP — BAGGAGE TRAIN — CONVICT LABOUR — A 
 TURKISH DINNER-PARTY — THE CORPS DE BALLET . . I 
 
 CHAPTER H. 
 
 OUR EQUIPMENT — TENTS AND BEDS — COMMISSARIAT — THE 
 KITCHEN — MULES, THEIR HABITS AND TREATMENT — CAMELS 
 — UP COUNTRY — MY FIRST BAG — SILVER CUPS — A WILD BOAR 
 — AILET — OUR ESCORT — THE FIRST OF THE JUNGLE — 
 SWEDISH MISSIONARIES — AN ABYSSINIAN " SPA "— A HOT 
 BATH— THE " RAINS " — THRASHING THE TENTS . . 20 
 
 CHAPTER HI. 
 
 GENERAL KIRKHAM — DIK-DIK — AN ABYSSINIAN HOUSE — A 
 SUCCESSFUL DODGE — EGYPTIAN OUTPOSTS — A PET SHEEP — 
 sportsman's PARADISE — lost IN A MIST — A "NASTY 
 cropper" — SAFE IN CAMP — DIGGING FOR PIGS — A LUCKY 
 SHOT — A SHOWER BATH 37
 
 viii CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 PAGF- 
 A STRANGE " GET-UP " — AN UNLUCKY SHOT — CRANES — AN 
 
 INSOLENT "CHICKER" — OUR COOLIES STRIKE — FLORICAN — 
 
 SERVANT HUNTING— NIGHT MARCHING — FIRST SIGHT OF 
 
 THE MAREB— " LONG LIE" — COPTIC CHURCH— A PEAL OF 
 
 STONE BELLS — HIGHWAY ROBBERY — A CHASE— DOMESTIC 
 
 QUARREL — LUGGAGE DIFFICULTIFS— A MOONLIGHT RACE . 55 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 A GENERAL BATH— RELIGIOUS PROCESSION— THE GAME OF 
 GOUX— DINNER-PARTY IN A STABLE— ETIQUETTE — GRAM — 
 FRENCH LEAVE— HOSTILITIES— A PARLEY AND RECONCILIA- 
 TION — NATIVE BEER — A WHIRLWIND — CULTIVATION — ROADS 
 — FINE SCENERY — A TALISMAN — A FIANCEE — CAPTURE OF A 
 GUIDE — ROBBERS AND THEIR PUNISHMENT — THE CROPS — 
 CAMP ON THE MAREB — TOMATOS — LIONS — A NARROW ESCAPE 
 —SPEAR THROWING 75 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 A WART-HOG — " BRUNDO " BUTCHERING — AN "ETON BLUE" 
 BIRD — BABOONS — DESERTED VILLAGE— ROUGH WALKING — 
 THE ABYSSINIAN ADAM AND EVE — JEALOUSY — THE PRIESTS — 
 SAVAGE CUSTOMS — TAMARISK COVER — NATIVE SPORTSMEN — 
 DANCING AND SINGING — WANT OF A DOG — NEWS OF A LION 
 — RED POCKET-HANDKERCHIEFS AND THEIR EFFECT — " BOR- 
 ROWED PLUMES " — THE JUNGLE ON FIRE— WE STEER WEST — 
 " BLACKMAIL "—SUMMARY JUSTICE 94 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 A LONG MARCH — A NATIVE GARDEN— COOLIES AND THE WAY 
 TO TREAT THEM — MARKETS — A BATTLE-FIELD — COOL SHADE 
 — "THE FIRST POST " — SHIELDS AND SPEARS — JOHN — POTA-
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 TOES— SILVERSMITHS— A NEW FRIEND— COOLIE SQUABBLES 
 —AN APPEAL — DONKEY BUYING — SHOE-MAKING— A BIKD's- 
 EYE VIEW OF OUR ROUTE — SOURCES OF THE TACKAZZEE — 
 MARRIAGE FESTIVITIES — I TURN SURGEON — A MUSICAL 
 PARTY — MY REPUTATION AS A DOCTOR . . . . II4 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 DONKEY ROBBERIES — REPRISALS — A FRIEND IN NEED — POST- 
 MEN — APOLOGIES — A THIEF SURPRISED — IN SEARCH OF A 
 MILLER — THE WAY TO GET WATER — A SWIM — ARRIVAL OF 
 MY RIFLE — CUSTOM-HOUSE — ELEPHANT-HUNTING — HINTS ON 
 COSTUME — FIRESIDE TALES — HOW TO PRODUCE FIRE — AN 
 EPICURE — HARTEBEEST AND GIRAFFES — JUNGLE FIRES . 1 34 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE FOREST — THE TACKAZZEE AT LAST — A FORD — AN UN- 
 HEALTHY CAMP — HIPPOPOTAMI — A RAFT— ON THE ELEPHANT 
 TRACK — IN SIGHT OF GAME — A LION AND A MESS — BIVOUACK- 
 ING — BEGINNING OF MY ILLNESS — GUINEA FOWL — WE TURN 
 HOMEWARDS — "THE BLUES "—RAFT-BUILDING-^A CARAVAN 
 — ELEPHANT AGAIN — A BIG FISH ! — NEWSPAPERS — CHANGE 
 OF QUARTERS — THE GAME OF " GALANIFT " . . . 152 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 OUR DAILY ROUTINE — BAKING A JERKED KOODOO — LOSS OF AN 
 ELEPHANT— A SEPARATION — MY ILLNESS INCREASES — STAR- 
 VATION — A GODSEND — SAD PLIGHT — FRESH SUPPLIES — A 
 HARD MARCH — NARROW ESCAPE — AN EXCITING HUNT — 
 PRIMITIVE BUTCHERY — A CURIOUS SHOT — CARAVAN — EX- 
 CHANGE OF CIVILITIES — "church" — CHANGE OF AIR — 
 ACCIDENT TO THE KITCHEN — STRANGE VISITORS — A THUN- 
 DERSTORM . ... . . . . . .173
 
 X CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 PAGE 
 
 AN INGENIOUS BED — EN ROUTE FOR THE COAST — A SAD 
 PLIGHT — UNPLEASANT TRAVELLING — FRIENDS — FORCIBLE 
 PERSUASION — AN AMUSING ENCOUNTER — AN ADVENTURE — I 
 OPEN A BAZAAR — PRICES — HOSPITALITY — HAGGLING — REIN- 
 FORCEMENT — LETTERS FROM HOME — A MISERABLE NIGHT — 
 FALSE RUMOURS — I SELL TWO DONKEYS — "HARD UP "— 
 GEESE AND HORNBILLS — ILL-TIMED THEFT — STRANGE QUAR- 
 TERS — TOOTH-BRUSHES ....... 195 
 
 CHAPTER Xn. 
 
 SELF-HELP — SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS — LAID-UP AGAIN — A RE- 
 UNION — HOSPITALITY — AN OLD FRIEND — AN ALARM — ORDER 
 OF BATTLE — A FIELD DAY — "KIND ENQUIRIES" — OLIVES 
 AND OIL — PURCHASE OF A CLUB — CATTLE PLAGUE — AN IN- 
 JUDICIOUS DINNER — MY ILLNESS INCREASES — I HAVE TO BE 
 CARRIED— LUXURY OF A WASH — I BUILD A HOUSE — THE SEA 
 — CIVILIZATION AGAIN 2I4 
 
 CHAPTER XIH. 
 
 FRENCH FRIENDS — ON BOARD — COMPARATIVE COMFORT — A 
 QUEER FISH — A DINNER PARTY — A CARGO OF GAZELLES — 
 ROUGH WEATHER — VOYAGE TO SUEZ — AND ARRIVAL . . 243
 
 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 
 
 OUR PARTY 
 
 A RACE FOR A SPEAR . 
 NARROW ESCAPE OF GOUBASEE 
 OUU CAMP AT MASSOVVAH . 
 A WILY BARIA 
 
 Frontispiece. 
 
 To face page 70 
 
 ,, 91 
 
 ,, "8 
 
 ,, 147
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 CAIRO — THE KHEDIVE "AT HOME "—THE PYRAMIDS — PETROS, OUR 
 CONDUCTOR — SUEZ — OUR PROVISIONS— THE START FROM SUE;Z — ON 
 BOARD THE DESSOOK — SOUAKIM — A USEFUL WEAPON — MASSOWAH 
 — NATIVE FISHERMEN — PEARLS — OUR FIRST ENCAMPMENT— ARTI- 
 FICIAL SHADE — "MY battery" — "EN ROUTE" — ON CAMEL-BACK 
 — THE FIRST SHOT — AND MISS— A NEW METHOD OF LOADING — 
 PICK-A-BACK — THE RESULT — ARREKEL BEY — WATER SUPPLY — OUR 
 PARTY DIVIDES — A VULTURE TRAP — BAGGAGE TRAIN — CONVICT 
 LABOUR — A TURKISH DINNER-PARTY — THE CORPS DE BALLET. 
 
 " In youth's wild days, it cannot but be pleasant 
 This idle roaming, round and round the world." 
 
 GOETHE. 
 
 Not to trouble the reader with an account of the 
 route to India, via Brindisi, I will commence the nar- 
 rative of my adventures at Cairo, where most of the 
 party who were going to shoot in Abyssinia were 
 assembled. 
 
 We had a very jolly time of it at Cairo, and 
 amused ourselves in the usual way, by riding donkeys 
 through the bazaars and trying to win money from 
 the Greeks, who keep all the gambling-houses. Of 
 course most of the time was employed in making 
 
 R
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 preparations for the journey to, and for travelling in, 
 Abyssinia. 
 
 We all went and paid our respects to the Khedive, 
 being introduced by Her Majesty's Consul, Major- 
 General Staunton. His Highness the Khedive was 
 very civil and courteous, and said he would give us 
 letters to the different Governors of the Egyptian 
 Provinces through which we were likely to pass. He 
 also provided all of us with firmans. 
 
 A day or two afterwards we received invitations 
 to a soiree thedtrale, given at the Palace of Kasr- 
 el-Nil. This lordly "palace" is simply a large wooden 
 structure on the banks of the Nile, close to the great 
 barracks in which most of the troops of Cairo are 
 quartered. 
 
 The entertainment was particularly dull, and the 
 only thing that enlivened us at all was the excessive 
 crush of the company going up the wooden stairs, 
 which made the whole place shake. Just as we were 
 entering the room the floor creaked loudly, and the 
 company parted as if a shell had burst in the midst 
 of them ; I thought the whole place was coming 
 down. Luckily, there was no panic, or I do not 
 know what would have happened, as we were at the 
 top of the house, having gone up about six flights of 
 stairs, and the room was full. There was an elaborate 
 supper afterwards, for which I did not stop. I was
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 only too glad during the first pause to leave so hot 
 an entertainment. 
 
 One Sunday afternoon we drove out to the Pyramids, 
 and ate lunch under some trees, sitting on one of those 
 broken Egyptian wheels which are used for raising 
 water. Afterwards we went inside the Pyramids ; it 
 was very warm work, and we wc^re forced to buy 
 quantities of antiquities, which, I believe, are manu- 
 factured in Birmingham. 
 
 I found I had to take off my boots in scrambling 
 down a labyrinth of narrow passages inside of the 
 Pyramid to get to the King's Chamber, for I had 
 twice been thrown on my back through having nails 
 in my boots. 
 
 After having spent ten days at Cairo, I resolved to 
 start for Suez in order to make arrangements, and to 
 gain information about Abyssinia. By great luck I 
 met an Abyssinian merchant, quite a young fellow, 
 in the bazaar at Suez, who said he would go to 
 Abyssinia as my servant, and he turned out to be- 
 very useful, as he could speak Amharic, Arabic, and 
 Hindustanee, as well as English. Petros, such was 
 his name, followed me through Abyssinia, and nursed 
 me with great care when I fell very ill on my return 
 to the coast. 
 
 I arrived at Suez just before H., who was to go 
 to Abyssinia with me ; he had come from South-
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 ampton by the P. and O. steamer, and I was delighted 
 to have arranged so nicely with him as to suit our 
 mutual convenience. 
 
 I learnt that my provisions had all arrived safely 
 by the P. and O., but not my heavy guns nor ammu- 
 nition. What had become of them I could not make 
 out, as Rigby, of St. James's Street, had most distinct 
 orders in writing to send them to Suez. It turned 
 out afterwards that the P. and O. Company, through 
 carelessness, had sent the guns on to Pointe de Galle ; 
 they arrived in Abyssinia the day before we started 
 for the Tackazzee, where the big game is to be found. 
 H. and I were hard at work for two days shifting 
 the provisions from the big boxes in which they had 
 come out into smaller ones, in order that these might 
 be carried on camels and mules. I bought a few 
 necessary articles at the P. and O. stores, such as a 
 large frying-pan, a common kettle, etc., for rough 
 camping work ; most of the other things I had pur- 
 chased in London, and I would recommend all other 
 travellers to do the same. I bought all my provi- 
 sions from the Army and Navy Co-operative Stores, 
 Victoria Street ; and I take this opportunity of 
 stating that, not only were they so well packed that 
 nothing was broken, but also that during the very 
 great heat and exceedingly dry cold winds in Abys- 
 sinia not one thing failed, and every article of the
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 5 
 
 provisions came out as fresh as if I had sent for and 
 got it that day from the stores. The boxes in which 
 the stores were packed I had made from an army 
 pattern ; it is the one used in the infantry to carry 
 the carpenters' tools. 
 
 A day or two after I had reached Suez, the rest 
 of the party arrived from Shcppard's Hotel, Cairo. 
 The ship we had to go in to Massowah, the seaport 
 town of Abyssinia, was called the Dcssook — a ship 
 that had been running from Alexandria to Constan- 
 tinople. She possessed plenty of accommodation, 
 which is rather unusual for this line of steamers. 
 These vessels run every three weeks from Suez, taking 
 and bringing the Egyptian mails from and to Suez, 
 Souakim, and Massowah. It is an enterprise of the 
 Khedive's, and is called the Posta Khedive Company ; 
 scarcely, I should think, paying well, as the trade 
 from all ports of the Red Sea is very small. They 
 also carry pilgrims during the pilgrim season. 
 
 We were a party of eleven on board the Dessook. 
 These vessels make no arrangements for providing 
 passengers with food ; so we formed a " mess " of our 
 own, with a president and a committee. Of course, 
 we had a great many cooks, as the party was large 
 and we were going to separate ; seven to disembark 
 at Souakim, and the remaining four at Massowah. 
 Nothing- could have been merrier than our little mess.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 The only other passengers besides ourselves were 
 some French Roman Catholic priests with a French 
 bishop, and a Frenchman belonging to a house of 
 business in Massowah. The bishop was very pleasant 
 and intelligent, and gave the rest of the party and 
 myself a great deal of useful information as to living 
 and travelling in Abyssinia : he was Bishop of Keren, 
 in the Bogos country. 
 
 In about three days from Suez we arrived at 
 Souakim, which is built upon an island. The houses 
 are white square structures, with a minaret dotted 
 about here and there. I went on shore with H. in 
 the evening, and we walked about that part of the 
 town which is on the mainland. The inhabitants of 
 Souakim are Arabs ; the men are very handsome, 
 well-made, likely fellows, and they walk about hand- 
 in-hand, twirling little crooked sticks and dressed in 
 white turbans and white clothes. 
 
 I bought one of those crooked knives peculiar to 
 Souakim with which the young gentlemen of the 
 place settle their little disputes. They hold the knife 
 dagger fashion, and hack away at each other till one 
 of the combatants faints from loss of blood. One 
 could see, from the shape of the knife, that it would be 
 very hard to inflict a mortal wound with such a 
 weapon. 
 
 Here seven of the party landed, including Captain
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 B., Mr. Marcopoli, and Mr. Russell. They were going 
 up to the White Nile, by Berber, to join Colonel 
 Gordon, of the White Nile exploration. The other 
 four were going to Kassala, across the Desert, and 
 thence down to the Hamaram village mentioned by 
 Sir Samuel Baker in his ' Nile Tributaries of Abys- 
 sinia,' to shoot all kinds of big game. The ship only 
 remained two days at Souakim, and then sailed for 
 Massowah. The rest of the journey was a little dull, 
 as the separation broke up this very cheery party, and 
 only four of us were now remaining. 
 
 On the morning of the 29th December, 1874, H., 
 Lord R., A., and myself landed at Massowah, and 
 here I begin my journal with an account of our sport 
 and adventures. 
 
 Dec. 29, 1874. — The first thing we did was to pay 
 our respects to the Governor. I presented the letter 
 which had been procured for me from the Minister of 
 Foreign Affairs in Egypt, and, of course, we had the 
 usual accompaniment of coffee. Arrckel Bey, the 
 Governor, was exceedingly civil, and said he would 
 do everything in his power to get us mules, etc., for 
 our journey to the interior. 
 
 Massowah is built on an island, in the same way as 
 Souakim ; but there are two long causeways joining it 
 with the mainland, whereas at Souakim one goes from 
 the mainland to the town in boats — coarse-shaped
 
 8 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 things, which are also used at Massowah, and which I 
 was told are not made in the country, but are brought 
 to Jidda by large steamers from India. 
 
 The boats, or rather rafts, that the people go out 
 fishing in in the harbour of Massowah are very primi- 
 tive, being made of a few logs of wood turned up at 
 the ends. The paddler is always wet with the sea, 
 but as he wears no clothes, except a rag about his 
 loins, it does not matter so much, the sun soon dries 
 him. These fishermen are more like fishes than human 
 beings, as they are in and out of the water every 
 minute. 
 
 All the export trade of Abyssinia comes to Mas- 
 sowah, and the goods are mostly shipped by the 
 Hindoo Banians, who have had a monopoly of the 
 trade of this place for many years. The merchandise 
 is sent to Bombay, by Aden, in native boats called 
 sambouks. There is a pearl fishery off the island of 
 Dhalac, thirty-five miles from the coast of Massowah, 
 and the Banians make a good thing of it, paying for 
 pearls in clothes and those necessaries the natives of 
 the island are likely to want, and selling their pur- 
 chases for rupees at Bombay. 
 
 Dec. 30. — The first day in camp was certainly un- 
 comfortable in all respects, as was to have been 
 expected, but we soon got straight, and then had 
 time to look about us. The hills of Abyssinia in the
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 distance, lying due west of our little camp, looked so 
 lovely as the sun set over them, one range rising over 
 the other, that I was eager to be off to see a country 
 that so little is known about, and whose people are 
 the only black race of Christians existing. 
 
 We pitched our little camp outside the town on a 
 small peninsula, close to where the Egyptian Govern- 
 ment is building a large house for the Governor. 
 
 There is no shade whatever near Massowah, and 
 the Governor very kindly got the Egyptian soldiers 
 who were told off to us as our guard, as well as his 
 servants, to put up a large mat " shemmianah," * 
 which gave us a very pleasant shade during the heat 
 of the day. We always took our meals under its 
 shelter while we stayed at Massowah. 
 
 As I said before, my heavy guns had not arrived at 
 Suez, so my battery was as follows : — 
 
 One i6-bore central-fire gun, by Purdey, carrying 
 ball. 
 
 A muzzle-loading rifle, by Purdey, carrying 2\ 
 drachms of powder. 
 
 A i2-bore pin-fire shot gun, which I bought at 
 Suez from Captain Kellock of the P. and O., made 
 by Crane, of the Royal Exchange. This turned 
 out to be a most serviceable gun and a very hard 
 hitter. 
 
 * An Indian word for a large square tent.
 
 I o SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 These guns were rather weak to shoot the large 
 game with, but H. had brought his Rigby's " Express" 
 with him, which, he said, I could use whenever I wanted 
 to do so. 
 
 Dec. 31. — ^Ve had all four settled the evening before 
 to go out shooting, and accordingly, this morning, we 
 started early for the lowest range of hills to be seen 
 in the distance. We expected to find some small 
 game, such as gazelles and small deer. I rode a camel, 
 and H. a donkey. Traversing the narrow causeway 
 which joined the little peninsula on which our camp 
 was situate to the mainland, the first thing that struck 
 me was the beautiful colours of the fish in the sea- 
 water at each side of the causeway. A. got off his 
 camel and tried to shoot one, but the water was 
 rather deep. 
 
 On reaching the mainland we found ourselves in a 
 large open plain covered with stunted bushes, and in 
 the distance could be seen the village of Moncullu, 
 where the residents of Massowah go during the heat 
 of summer, which is very great in this climate. 
 
 H. and I made for the hills as quickly as we 
 could ; my camel striding ahead took the lead, and 
 he followed on his donkey. The motion of the camel 
 is very pleasant ; as I had bought a capital camel- 
 saddle in the bazaar at Cairo, so far from the motion 
 being inconvenient, as some travellers allege it to be.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 1 1 
 
 I found it very comfortable ; it almost made me fall 
 asleep. 
 
 We saw no game on the plain we were crossing. 
 When we had got over the first range of small hills, 
 the guide, a Shoho Arab, stopped in the sandy bed 
 of a small river where some Arabs were watering their 
 flocks of goats. The water is got at by grubbing a 
 hole in the sandy bed of the river, and then the Arabs 
 scoop it up with a goatskin into a wooden trough, or, 
 failing that, into another hole made in the sand. 
 
 Here we stopped for a short time, watered our 
 beasts, and asked the natives if they had seen any 
 game. They said there was something in some bushes 
 close by, whereupon we were both on the tiptoe of 
 expectation. I got my rifle ready, and H. his shot- 
 gun. We went towards the spot indicated, and, 
 almost among the herd of goats, I saw running about 
 a small brown-looking beast, like a very small deer. 
 We tried to stalk him, but he bolted past. H. 
 fired at him and missed ; I then fired my rifle and 
 missed also. We then kicked him out of another 
 bush, but H. did not see him, he having broken cover 
 on the wrong side. 
 
 This animal turned out to be a little mouse-deer, 
 or dik-dik. In loading my rifle again, I rammed 
 down the bullet without putting in any powder, not 
 being accustomed to use muzzle-loading weapons.
 
 12 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 This put one barrel hors de combat ; thus the reader 
 will see that my first attempt at African sport was 
 not a success. 
 
 One of the natives then volunteered to show us 
 some bigger deer. We went on through a sandy, 
 rocky valley in which mimosa-bushes were dotted 
 about. H. agreed to go to the ground to the 
 right and I to the left, so as to work it over tho- 
 roughly. The boy who was with me said he saw some 
 deer on the ridge of the high hill at the foot of which 
 I was ; I went up the hill, and sent him round the other 
 way. On coming to the top I saw the deer feeding and 
 wagging their tails just below me, but they were too 
 far off for the rifle I had. I longed for my Express, 
 which, at that time, was on its way to Pointe de Galle 
 in Ceylon, instead of being with me ! The deer 
 caught sight of me and trotted away. I sent back 
 the boy for H., as he had his Express with him ; 
 when he joined me we tried to get at them again, 
 but failed. We saw another dik-dik, and then started 
 for home, in a temperature that was very hot indeed. 
 
 We w^ere back in camp late in the afternoon, and, 
 having had something to eat, I determined to take my 
 rifle on board the Dessook, to ask the engineer, who 
 was an Englishman, to extract the bullet. Arrekel 
 Bey, the Governor, sent a boat round to our camp, 
 and the men rowed us out to the ship, singing, as
 
 SFORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 they were rowing, a wild Arab song which sounded 
 very prettily. It was a lovely moon-lit night, and 
 every dip of their oars in the water threw up waves of 
 phosphorescent light ; which phenomenon everybody 
 who has been in these latitudes must have seen and 
 admired. 
 
 The engineer put my gun right in about half an 
 hour ; he had to unscrew the block at the breech of 
 the gun. The Arabs rowed us home ; they had to 
 carry us on their backs for a portion of the distance, 
 as our boat could not get near enough to the shore. 
 The native who was carrying H. managed to drop 
 him, and he got a ducking ; I very nearly tumbled off 
 my Arab sailor, on whom I was riding pick-a-back, 
 from laughter, and I was very glad to get to bed after 
 a rather long day. 
 
 jfan. I, 1875. — This day we all four paid a visit 
 to Arrekel Bey, who said he had seven mules to 
 carry our things, and camels for A. and Lord R., who 
 were not going to the hills, but to the province of 
 Bogos, which formerly belonged to the Abyssinians, 
 and was taken from them by the Egyptians. 
 
 A., who had been in this part of the world be- 
 fore, expected to find plenty of big game, as it was 
 a new country, and no English sportsman had shot 
 over it previously. I tried to buy a horse in Mas- 
 sowah ; Arrekel Bey's groom put him through his
 
 14 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 paces, showing him off up and down the space in 
 front of the Governor's house. It was very amusing 
 to see this Ethiopian sitting on the horse, with his 
 toes well stuck out, and displaying the points of the 
 animal, much in the same way as any London dealer 
 would in his straw-yard. 
 
 Arrekel Bey very kindly invited us to dinner for the 
 next day at Moncullu ; he has a sort of little summer 
 retreat there. He said he was going to take us to 
 see the wells which supply Massowah with water. 
 The water is brought in earthenware pipes built up 
 inside the wall of the causeway, along which we had 
 gone the day before, and the water is pumped up from 
 wells in the rock by convicts transported hither from 
 Egypt. Massowah, before the conduit was completed, 
 was very badly supplied with water ; in fact, there 
 was nothing but rain-water tanks, and the inhabi- 
 tants, even now, are charged for the water so much per 
 skin. We were to take all our luggage and baggage 
 to Moncullu, and then this party of four was to 
 separate ; A. and Lord R. going to Bogos, and H. 
 and myself to Adowa, the capital of Abyssinia, 
 whence we intended to go down to Tackazzee for the 
 shooting. The reader will see, later on, that we had 
 to change our plans. 
 
 Jail. 2. — This morning I prepared some fishing- 
 tackle, intending in the afternoon to try and catch
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 some of the strange-coloured fish that I had seen in 
 
 the water the previous day. Fish of most beautiful 
 colours and extraordinary shapes and sizes abound in 
 all parts of the Red Sea. 
 
 A. had brought out some of the iron traps that 
 are used by keepers for catching rabbits in Eng- 
 land. I set one of tliese on the top of a heap of 
 stones near the camp, with a bit of meat tied on 
 the plate of it, to try and catch one of those great 
 vultures which are always seen hovering about Eastern 
 towns. In about half an hour one came swooping 
 down on it, made a "grab'' at the meat and was caught 
 by the legs. He w^ould have flown away with the 
 trap as well, but for Fisk, H.'s English servant, who 
 caught and secured him. He was one of the common 
 bare-necked vultures that live on carrion. 
 
 In the afternoon I went out fishing, but did not find 
 much sport ; I only caught a pipe-fish, which we ate. 
 That evening some of our mules and three camels, 
 as also a string of camels for A. and Lord R., ap- 
 peared. Arrekel Bey, the Governor, sent to ask if 
 we were ready ; I said we were all ready, but that our 
 promised transport animals had not all come. In about 
 half an hour the Governor arrived himself, when I told 
 him that I could not start without a proper supply of 
 mules. He stated they could not be got that day, but 
 he would do his best the next day ; I very politely
 
 1 6 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 said I would not move without my luggage. He then 
 ordered all the donkeys that are used to carry the 
 water into Massowah from the conduit just outside the 
 town to be brought. They were a mixed lot ; some 
 were blind and some were lame, but our luggage was 
 carried into Moncullu some way or other. The great 
 thing was that we made a move in the right direction. 
 
 It was quite a sight to see this troop of animals, 
 consisting of camels, donkeys, and mules — the servants 
 pushing along the narrow causeway — one donkey lag- 
 ging behind, and another trying to push by — kettles 
 tumbling off and straps coming undone. C'est le 
 premier pas qui coute. I am certain that it cost the 
 poor donkeys a great deal of pain, as they were 
 frequently belaboured with sticks and were loudly 
 cursed in Massowah Arabic. 
 
 Arrekel Bey took us to see the wells made in the 
 rock in Moncullu, where the most deliciously cool 
 water is pumped up. The convicts looked fine, strong, 
 muscular fellows, but gentlemen that one would not 
 like to meet alone on a dark night. They had just 
 left off work, it being sunset, six o'clock. 
 
 We then adjourned to dinner, which was laid out in 
 a large oblong hut made of grass. This is the way 
 that houses are made in Moncullu, as a free current of 
 air passes through the whole structure, and any other 
 material would be too hot.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 1 7 
 
 We had a regular Turkish dinner, and not at all a 
 bad one either. We first began by drinking", as is the 
 Turkish fashion, some excellent liqueur w hich is called 
 in these parts "arake." I believe it is made in 
 Smyrna, but it is very good. As some of my readers 
 may know, a Turkish dinner consists of a great number 
 of dishes, which are handed about to the guests in 
 quick succession. I managed to get through most of 
 them, and I think I could have succeeded in doing 
 more, but for the circumstance that the champagne 
 had not been iced ; in fact, ice in those parts is an 
 unknown luxury. It is only in India that Europeans 
 can really live in a hot country. 
 
 After dinner we were taken to a large marquee. 
 The ground outside was surrounded by a circle of 
 torches held in braziers, somewhat like a beacon, 
 burning wood which was replenished by the Egyptian 
 soldiers, a large number of whom had been "told off" 
 for this purpose. 
 
 There were divans in the marquee, on which we 
 reclined. We had waited about a quarter of an hour, 
 when some musicians appeared with tom-toms and 
 rude guitars, on which they began strumming, and 
 making a hideous noise. Then some dancing girls 
 were brought in, and their extraordinary performance 
 surpassed anything I had ever seen either in India or 
 at Covent Garden. 
 
 C
 
 1 8 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 The natives of Moncullu were ranged round the 
 open part of the marquee, singing to the music and 
 keeping time by clapping their hands. All the dancing 
 girls did was to sway their bodies about in an affected 
 manner, stamp with their feet on the ground, and wag 
 their heads backward and forward, making their long 
 plaited hair swing across their faces. They were 
 highly scented with musk, etc., a la mode Arabe. 
 Like all Arab women, they were very small but 
 beautifully made, with tiny hands and feet. 
 
 This entertainment lasted about three hours, and, 
 between the heat of the hut and the smell of the 
 negroes, I very nearly went to sleep. At last the 
 performance came to a close, and we retired to our 
 respective tents. The soldiers put out the lights, but 
 I could see Arrekel Bey's native servants, after we 
 were gone, regaling themselves on the remains of the 
 liqueur and brandy left upon the table in the marquee. 
 My head, the next morning, was not quite so clear as 
 it might have been. It must have been the Turkish 
 sweetmeats that caused it, I think ! 
 
 ya7i. 3. — To-day we were all up at sunrise. Our 
 mules were loaded, and also our three camels. Two 
 more mules had arrived the evening before. H. 
 bought one, of a grey colour, for his English ser- 
 vant to ride, and I was to ride a small brown mule. 
 She turned out a capital animal and very sure-footed
 
 SFOR T IN A BYSSINIA . 1 9 
 
 over the rocks in the hills. We ate some breakfast 
 and started for Sahatee at eight o'clock, having said 
 good-bye to A. and Lord R.* I little thought on that 
 bright morning when we shook hands and wished 
 each other luck, that I should never see his cheery 
 face again. His death was indeed a sad, sad ending 
 to an expedition which began so pleasantly and well ! 
 
 * Earl of Ranfurly, Captain Grenadier Guards, who died at Souakini, 
 on the Red Sea, May 10, 1S75, on board the steamer which was that 
 day leaving for Suez.
 
 20 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 OUR EQUIPMENT — TENTS AND BEDS — COMMISSARIAT — THE KITCHEN 
 — MULES, THEIR HABITS AND TREATMENT^CAMELS — UP COUNTRY 
 — MY FIRST BAG — SILVER CUPS — A WILD BOAR — AILET — OUR ES- 
 CORT — THE FIRST OF THE JUNGLE — SWEDISH MISSIONARIES — AN 
 ABYSSINIAN " SPA " — A HOT BATH — THE " RAINS " — THRASHING 
 THE TENTS. 
 
 Before taking the reader any farther into Abyssinia 
 I must say something about our equipment ; what 
 tents we had, and what description of provisions. 
 
 We took Avith us two tents ; a three-poled tent 
 made by Edgington, and called by him the Punjab 
 Hill tent. I should advise everybody to take this 
 description of tent for rough work in any country. 
 Head room is what is Avanted for comfort ; and this is 
 the only strong, portable, and shapely tent that com- 
 bines those advantages. Mr. Galton, in his most 
 useful little book, the 'Art of Travel,' says very 
 nearly the same thing. We had a little Union Jack 
 to fly at the top of it, and iron tent pegs Of course 
 these tents can be made of any reasonable size. The 
 other — a tente d'adri—wsis for Fisk, H.'s English
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 2 1 
 
 servant, and was for him to sit in while he skinned 
 the birds we shot, of which we intended to make a 
 good collection, as they are very beautiful in these 
 parts. 
 
 Ours was rather smaller than usual ; our two beds 
 were on each side of a person entering the door, which 
 left a space at the head of the beds for a box for 
 brushes and dressing-things, etc. 
 
 We slept on iron camp-beds, and I was provided 
 with a blanket lined with silk, which is a device I 
 should recommend to everybody else, only advising 
 them to take care that the blanket is long and 
 wide enough to fall over the side as well as to 
 hang over the foot of the bed. The sleeper lies in 
 the fold of this blanket, so that if the sides were 
 tacked together it would make a complete bag ; this 
 is good both for hot and cold climates. The lining 
 should be of red or blue silk, which is easily cleaned 
 with a sponge or piece of rag, and some warm water. 
 White, of Aldershot, made mine for the Cannock 
 Chase autumn manoeuvres. It is almost waterproof, 
 and can be slept in with as much comfort as in the 
 best sheets. 
 
 Our provisions were calculated to last three Euro- 
 peans for four months. I had the list overlooked 
 by the head purser of the P. and O. Company in 
 London, who gave me some very useful hints with
 
 22 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 regard to preserving provisions. I cut down the 
 amount of stores as much as possible in order to 
 save transport, as, from what little experience I had 
 had of India and coolie work in that country, I knew 
 that the lighter one travels, the more comfortable one 
 is, and the farther one goes. The following is an 
 exact list of the provisions : — ■ 
 
 1^ <lo7.. tins of cabin biscuits (Peek and Frean). 
 1 1 „ „ of German rusks. 
 
 6 „ srtiall tins of cocoa and milk, from Lion 
 brand. 
 
 \ doz. small bottles of currie-powder. 
 i^ „ pots of marmalade. 
 
 \ „ tins of plum-pudding. 
 One middle piece of bacon, cut up, and hermetically 
 
 sealed in tins. 
 I doz. tins of ox-tail soup. 
 
 \ „ „ o{ pate de foie gras. 
 3 ,, „ of Cambridge sausages, 
 i^ „ „ of sardines. 
 Two tin-opening knives. 
 
 14 lbs. of yellow soap, called "primrose soap." 
 8^ pint bottles of Worcester sauce. 
 6\ „ „ of Harvey's sauce. 
 28 lbs. of preserved potatoes. 
 
 3 bottles of best French vinegar.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 12 lbs. of tea, done up in i lb. tins. 
 
 1 doz. bottles of mixed pickles. 
 1 8 2-oz. pots of Liebig's extract of meat. 
 
 The cocoa and milk in tins was one of the most 
 useful of the provisions we had, as it only required the 
 addition of hot water to make a most delicious cup of 
 cocoa. This was very useful when starting early in 
 the morning and things were wanted in a hurry, and 
 it was quite a meal by itself. German rusks I would 
 also recommend, as they are very good eating, and do 
 not dry up the mouth so much as biscuits. Of course 
 these provisions were helped out a great deal by fresh 
 meat, milk, eggs, bread, etc., which we found in the 
 country. Besides all this, we took a large sack of 
 onions, about two donkey-loads of rice, some potatoes, 
 some salt for table use in bottles, and some black 
 pepper and mustard. Coffee of the very best sort can 
 be got at Massowah. We took a little sugar \\ith 
 us, but it was not properly packed, and all melted 
 together in one compact mass. The best way to take 
 sugar would be to have pounded loaf-sugar done up 
 in pickle bottles or tins. 
 
 With regard to the cooking, H, had a large tin 
 box which contained a canteen made by Thornhill, of 
 Bond Street ; into this all the boiling cans and a 
 small kettle fitted, the one into the other. I would
 
 24 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA . 
 
 not recommend this arrangement for rough zvork, as if 
 a can gets bent it does not fit into the other, which 
 is a disadvantage, as it then has to be carried sepa- 
 rately, and eventually ends by being knocked to 
 pieces. The best kinds of things for the cook are a 
 common gridiron, a large frying-pan, three sizes of 
 pots made of strong tin in the shape of milk-pails for 
 boiling in ; a good tin kettle, a soup-ladle, and a 
 couple of butcher's knives. With those one may go 
 anywhere. 
 
 With regard to knives and forks, the best sorts are 
 those that are made by Thornhill, of Bond Street, for 
 skinning animals, but they ansv/er other purposes as 
 well. All steel things, in a hot, dry climate, can be 
 very well cleaned and polished by the natives with 
 the wood ashes out of the camp-fire, and there is no 
 reason why they should look dirty, for dirty things 
 always take away the appetite, especially if you 
 have sometimes to eat rather strange food. The forks 
 I had made from my own pattern, and two of them 
 can be converted into a fish spear on an emergency. 
 It is a great thing to try and manage to have such 
 implements as may be made to serve more than one 
 purpose ; as the reader will understand, this saves a 
 great deal of carriage. 
 
 H. brought out two English hunting-saddles ; they 
 did very well for the mules we rode in Abyssinia.
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 2 5 
 
 He also brought snaffle-bridles ; these were a great 
 deal better than the bridles of the country, ^\hich arc 
 dreadfully severe and pull any animal back on his 
 haunches with the least touch. This is rather dan- 
 gerous on a narrow path over a precipice, as some- 
 times, going uphill, by mistake a rider is apt to hang 
 on by the bridle instead of catching hold of either the 
 mane or the pommel. The mules took to the snaffle 
 very kindly ; in fact, it seemed quite a relief to them 
 to have this descriptk)n of bit in their mouths. 
 
 As so much has been written upon mules lately, 
 with regard to their use as draught animals for farm 
 purposes and in other ways, I copy from my notes 
 made on my way home some memoranda of the 
 way these animals are treated and looked after in 
 Abyssinia. 
 
 Everybody in Abyssinia rides a mule ; even the 
 king rides a mule, and has his charger led in front of 
 him. This custom is followed by all the nobles and 
 " swells " in the country. 
 
 The saddles used on Abyssinian mules are made 
 with high cantels and pommels, and are well padded ; 
 a good sheep-skin Numbdah, or one made of old 
 cotton cloth, folded into many folds — the older and 
 the more ragged the better, as it is then softer — is put 
 under the saddle. On the march, when the halting- 
 place for the day is arrived at, they take off the
 
 26 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 saddle but not the numbdah, tying up the mule in the 
 shade for about half-an-hour to let the animal get cool. 
 They then remove the numbdah and lead the mule 
 to roll. The best place for this purpose is in the 
 ashes of an old camp-fire. In fact, in Abyssinia there 
 are regular rolling-places for the mules and donkeys 
 at most of the camping grounds ; the animals seem to 
 know them by instinct, especially the patient ass, 
 which latter is used merely for carrying baggage. 
 Anybody riding an ass in Abyssinia would be hooted 
 through the country. This is rather extraordinary, as 
 these animals, among the Arabs, and also in Egypt, 
 are considered quite the thing, and large donkeys of 
 good breed fetch very high prices in Cairo. I myself 
 saw one at Suez that had cost at Cairo 40/., but he 
 was made like a race-horse. 
 
 After the mule has rolled they take him to water ; 
 they next hobble him, and let him go out to graze. 
 The best sort of hobble I have ever seen, and one 
 used in Abyssinia, is one by which the near fore leg is 
 tied up with a leather thong, about three-quarters of 
 an inch wide, to the off hind leg, or vice versa. The 
 thong must be so tied that the mule can walk pretty 
 easily, and yet it should not be too loose. 
 
 These remarks apply to donkeys as well as to 
 mules ; but, of course, the former animals do not 
 require so much care as mules. They need not be
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 27 
 
 hobbled when let out to graze, but should always have 
 a man to look after them in case of attacks by wild 
 beasts. 
 
 In travelling with these beasts the great thing, of 
 course, is to avoid sore backs in this country, where 
 the temperature varies so much in different parts ; 
 as, for instance, I was out duck-shooting one morning 
 at 5 . 30 in a white frost, and at the next camping 
 ground, at a less altitude, at the same hour of the 
 morning, I could not bear a thick coat on at all when 
 walking out shooting. 
 
 This change of temperature occurring very often, 
 day by day, while travelling with these animals 
 through Abyssinia, must have, I think, some effect 
 on the backs of mules and donkeys. The origin of 
 the swelling under the skin, I am persuaded, must 
 depend on the sudden check to the perspiration. 
 Of course, if the saddle or packing had at all bruised 
 the back of the animal, this would accelerate the 
 complaint. 
 
 The back having become sore or swollen up, matter 
 is formed underneath.* To cure this the natives of 
 Abyssinia cast the donkey or mule, and with a hot 
 
 * It is not a necessary coincidence that if the back becomes sore the 
 swelling should come on, as I have seen several cases where there 
 were no outward signs of .soreness, but still where large swellings 
 were forming.
 
 28 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 iron score the back. In two days the wound begins 
 to discharge matter ; after a {q.\\! days more, the 
 sore should be washed once or twice every twenty- 
 four hours and dressed Avith fresh butter. The back 
 becomes much iiarder after these wounds have healed 
 up, but it requires at least a month or more to do 
 so, and the animal should be kept within doors or in 
 any enclosed space, and fed on corn and green food, 
 as the discharge from the wound is exceedingly 
 weakening. 
 
 Some merchants of Abyssinia, who travel daily 
 for months down to the coast from distant parts, much 
 prefer mules and donkeys whose backs have been 
 burnt, as, they say, the animals are hardier, and the 
 soreness and swelling are not likely to recur. 
 
 As to our camels, they were with us only a short 
 time, for they left us at the foot of the hills ; my 
 experience of camels, therefore, is not very great. 
 All that I observed was, that it is best to leave them 
 to the cameleers ; but to see that the cameleers, when 
 loading up at starting, are not trying to shirk their 
 loads and put the things told off to them on their 
 neighbours' camels. This is a favourite expedient, 
 and they will tell any lies and swear any oaths to get 
 rid of a pound or two of baggage, especially if the 
 camel is a favourite one with them. 
 
 With regard to the mode of packing mules and
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 29 
 
 donkeys, it would take up too mucli space to give 
 an account here. All I would recommend to the 
 traveller is to follow the custom of the country in 
 which he finds himself. He should not interfere with 
 the natives in loading, as, most likely, he will thereby 
 only display his ignorance, and they will get annoyed 
 and sulky at being interfered with. Sir Samuel 
 Baker, in his ' Nile Tributaries in Abyssinia,' gives 
 an interesting account of the mode in which he loaded 
 his donkeys for starting to Central Africa. 
 
 Now, to continue our journey. The plain on which 
 we had been encamped soon ended, and then we be- 
 gan to ascend the hills. The ground was very rocky 
 and arid, only stunted bushes growing here and there. 
 We then came upon a small valley which reached to 
 the bank of a sandy river-bed, with rather thick 
 jungle on each side. One of the servants said we 
 should be likely to find some game here. I got off 
 my mule and walked up the bed of the river, telling 
 the man with my mule to go straight on with the rest 
 of the party, and that I would rejoin them after 
 making a slight detour. After I had gone a little 
 way a dik-dik crossed the dry river-bed in front of 
 me ; I fired at him, but it was too long a shot. I 
 then tried to circumvent some guinea-fowl, with 
 which the jungle fringing the banks of the watercourse 
 abounded ; they made the whole place alive with
 
 30 SPORT AY ABYSSINIA. 
 
 their calling to each other. They are exactly like 
 the guinea-fowl one sees at home, and make precisely 
 the same noise. They did not let me approach them 
 within shooting range, being very shy. I success- 
 fully stalked a hare and knocked him over, he was 
 of that description of animals which our American 
 cousins call the jackass rabbit ; I leave it to natu- 
 ralists to give his Latin name. We ate him for dinner, 
 and he was capital food. 
 
 I then trotted on in front of H., and arrived at 
 Sahatee, the place we were to camp at for the night, 
 about one o'clock in the afternoon. My first thought 
 was to get something to drink, as I was very thirsty ; 
 therefore, obtaining some oranges from a native, of 
 these I sucked some, and squeezed the juice of 
 others into my little silver bowl ; they were very 
 bitter, but greatly refreshing. 
 
 Before I go on, let me recommend travellers to 
 take these small silver bowls with them ; it is 
 wonderful how useful they will be found. The bowl 
 can be applied to many purposes, and is easily 
 cleaned with fine wood ashes. One makes one's 
 tea in it, covering it over with a plate to make it 
 draw ; one drinks one's soup out of it, or coffee or 
 cocoa, as the case may be ; and one mixes one's 
 medicine in it. Silver is a very good metal for 
 things to be made of, as if it is bent it is easily
 
 SFOR T IN A BYSSINIA . 3 1 
 
 brought into shape again. One of the gun-bcarcrs 
 should always cany the bowl, so that the traxeller 
 may have it at hand to dip into the stream and drink 
 from ; the brightness of the silver shows whether the 
 water is fit to drink. In Abyssinia the natives do 
 not understand silver vessels, and set no value on 
 them, thinking they are tin ; but in other countries 
 they might easily be stolen. 
 
 The camping-place of Sahatee is surrounded by 
 rocks. There are two trees on a little knoll in the 
 centre, and it was under one of these I was lying 
 when H. appeared with the camels, the tents and 
 baggage. We pitched the little tent in the bed of the 
 dried-up river, whence, during the rains, the water 
 dashes over the rocks and flows away to the sea. 
 After we had had something to eat, H. said he was 
 a-oing out shooting, one of the Arabs in charge of 
 the camels telling him that wild pigs abounded here. 
 He had not long gone out of camp before I heard 
 the crack of his rifle. He had wounded a boar in the 
 hind quarter, as it was coming to drink ; but the boar 
 trotted away, leaving blood tracks, which H. and 
 the Arab tried to follow up, but soon lost them in 
 the dust and the hard-baked ground of the jungle. 
 When I heard the shots I started off also to try 
 and find a boar, but was not so lucky. I got back 
 about an hour before dusk, and saw several of the
 
 32 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 Francolin partridges pecking about the camping 
 eround ; I killed one and wounded another. H. had 
 just come in, and as the wounded bird rocketed 
 over his head he knocked it down. H. also shot a 
 small brown duck. I had tried to get some of 
 the little sand-grouse as they came down to drink ; 
 but these little birds only come down just as it is 
 getting dusk, and settle quickly on the ground, 
 uttering their peculiar plaintive cry. It was almost 
 impossible to discern them in the fading light, and as 
 I wanted to get a pot shot into the "brown" of them 
 as they were on the ground, for the cook to prepare for 
 our breakfast next morning, I waited too long, the 
 light failed, and I had to give up my intention. 
 
 We were camped on the shingle of the river, which, 
 although it is always a very dry, clean spot, and 
 free from insects, has this disadvantage, that the 
 iron legs of the camp-beds sink rather far into the 
 ground ; and sometimes one wakes up finding oneself 
 in a slanting position, with the head lower than the 
 legs. 
 
 Jail. 4. — This morning we were on the move early, 
 having left at 6.45 for Ailet. It was a lovely, cloudy 
 day, which is a thing that one knows how to appre- 
 ciate in an Eastern climate. The country became 
 much greener as we approached Ailet ; this village lies 
 in a valley which is exceedingly fertile — that is to say^
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 33 
 
 as far as it is cultivated by the Shoho Arabs who 
 
 dwell in the village. Elephants arc found here after 
 the rains, but the place is rather unhealthy at that 
 time, and most of the natives, who are miserable 
 creatures, suffer from fever. 
 
 I should state that the Governor had provided us 
 with a guard of six irregular Egyptian soldiers and a 
 non-commissioned officer. In the middle of the night at 
 Sahatee, we had heard the loud report of the Egyptian 
 corporal's carbine. We thought we were going to be 
 attacked ; but it turned out, next morning, that he 
 had fired at a pig, in hopes of securing some fresh 
 meat. 
 
 These poor soldiers' pay is four dollars a month ; 
 they find themselves in clothes and food, but are 
 provided with arms, and all military service is com- 
 pulsory with the Egyptians. 
 
 Our cameleers and Naib Abdul Kerim — the man 
 whom Arrekel Bey, the Governor, had given us to guide 
 us through the country and manage our transport as 
 far as Adowa, the capital of Abyssinia — wanted 
 us to camp near a large tree just outside the house 
 of the Sheik of the village of Ailet. H. and I, how- 
 ever, agreed to go on, so as to get to the hot springs 
 of Ailet, as it was early in the day and we should 
 be a little farther on our journey ; we should also 
 be farther away from the village and more likely 
 
 D
 
 34 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 to get shooting. After some little palaver and 
 remonstrances from the cameleers, who thought they 
 had come to the end of their day's march, we 
 moved on. 
 
 The scene now changed from an open valley into a 
 thorny jungle, and the road was frequently crossed 
 by dried-up river-courses. H., who had already 
 acquired a fine collection of birds in Ceylon and 
 Australia, was very anxious to secure specimens here. 
 This jungle was alive with all varieties of parti- 
 coloured warblers, and he shot several specimens, in- 
 cluding a sort of jay with a hooked bill, which utters 
 a strange cry — one that everybody travelling in 
 Abyssinia will soon get accustomed to. It is not 
 unlike the noise of the English jay. 
 
 We shortly afterwards came to a little stream which 
 flows from the hot spring ; and we saw a white house 
 in the distance perched on the top of a high hill, for 
 which we made. The little stream narrowed as we 
 advanced, and we found ourselves in a rocky pass. 
 Our Arabs told us that the camels could go no farther. 
 The white house, as we learnt, belonged to some 
 Swedish missionaries. We pitched our camp just at 
 the foot of the hill which rose straight above us, the 
 little white house looking very picturesque at its top ; 
 the hot spring was about ten minutes' walk from our 
 camp. One of the missionaries came down to speak
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 3 5 
 
 to us ; he said that they had only just finished 
 building their house, and he hospitably invited us to 
 stay there, but we declined, with thanks. 
 
 H. said he would go out shooting, but I stopped 
 in camp to settle things, and before dinner I went up 
 and bathed in the hot spring. My readers must 
 know that this is the fashionable Spa of Abyssinia, 
 whither invalids afflicted with scrofulous and other 
 complaints come to bathe. It is held in great repute 
 all through the country, and I believe with good 
 reason. 
 
 The spring was almost too hot to sit in, but I had 
 taken up my big sponge, and douched myself well ; 
 the bath was very soothing after the heat and march 
 of the day. 
 
 This evening it began to rain ; this will give the 
 date of the beginning of the rains in the hills lying 
 between the sea and Asmarra, the first table-land in 
 Abyssinia that one comes to on this road. These 
 rains must not be confused with the rains that pour 
 down in Abyssinia, supplying the Nile tributaries that 
 Sir Samuel Baker has explored, and which begin in 
 the month of May. 
 
 Directly the rain began the servants and myself 
 busied ourselves in making a little trench around the 
 tent ; this is a precaution everybody ought to take 
 where there is the least chance of rain. I also irot mv
 
 36 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 courbatch* and thrashed the tent well all round. The 
 reader will, doubtless, wonder why I did this, but it is 
 an old soldier's dodge, and the reason for it is that 
 it makes the threads of the canvas — which, in hot 
 countries, become shrunken and open — to close 
 together, so that, after the application of the cottr- 
 batch, the tent, instead of getting leaky with the rain, 
 becomes more waterproof than before ; a large pliable 
 bundle of twigs will do just as well. H. came in, 
 having shot a small bird or two for his collection, and 
 having seen some pig down the watercourse. 
 
 * The courbatch is a whip made of hippopotamus hide, and used in 
 Egypt and in the provinces belonging to that country. It is with this 
 whip that malefactors and offenders against the law are chastised. 
 Every stroke of it, if well laid on, will cut into the flesh.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 37 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 GENERAL KIRKHAM — DIK-DIK — AN ABYSSINIAN HOUSE — A SUCCESS- 
 FUL DODGE — EGYPTIAN OUTPOSTS — A PET SHEEP — SPORTSMAN'S 
 PARADISE — LOST IN A MIST— A "NASTY CROPPER "—SAFE IN 
 CAMP— DIGGING FOR PIGS— A LUCKY SHOT — A SHOWER BATH. 
 
 I HAD heard at Massowah that General Kirkham, 
 commander in-chief of the King of Abyssinia's army, 
 was at Gindar, about half-a-day's march from Ailet. I 
 had written to the General from Massowah, and, this 
 evening, a servant of the missionaries brought me a 
 note from him, saying that he would come and see us 
 next morning. I was very much interested in seeing 
 General Kirkham, who had lived so long in Abyssinia 
 away from his own country.* 
 
 * General Kirkham was formerly a steward in the P. and O. service. 
 He left the P. and O. ship in China, to join the British contingent 
 which Colonel Gordon at that time was raising for the war in China. 
 General Kirkham was terribly wounded both in the head and shoulder 
 in this war ; he came home, and Sir William Fergusson, the surgeon, 
 cured him. He afterwards went to Annesley Bay, and, at the time of 
 the Abyssinian expedition, he was employed by Lord Napier of Mag- 
 dala to buy bullocks for commissariat purposes ; when the expedition 
 was over he received leave from Lord Napier to go into Abyssinia. He
 
 3 8 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 Jan. 5. — We got up rather late the next morning, 
 and H. went out shooting. I said I would stay in 
 camp and receive Kirkham when he came, but he did 
 not arrive after all till the afternoon ; so, having waited 
 for him until twelve, I decided to go out shooting. 
 I proceeded down to the watercourse, and had not 
 gone far before I came to a pool, at which some pigs 
 were about to drink ; I tried to stalk them, but they 
 trotted away. I then turned sharp to the left into 
 the jungle, and wandered about some little time. 
 One could not well imagine a more likely place for 
 wild game, and I expected every moment to see 
 some strange animal dart out of the bushes. 
 
 The air was very hot. I had walked about an hour 
 and a half, and I determined to rest and eat some 
 sardines and a crust of bread which I had brought 
 with me. I got on the top of a little mound, and was 
 discussing my luncheon, when I heard a sort of 
 
 tendered his sei-vices to the king, and was made a colonel of the 
 Abyssinian army. Having drilled some Abyssinian soldiers in the 
 EngHsh fashion for the king, in the battle which the king fought 
 against the rebel Goubasse he gained a well-won reputation, for it 
 was owing entirely to those men that Johannes the king won this battle. 
 After this he was made commander-in-chief, which he is now. It may 
 be remembered by some of my readers that General Kirkham came 
 home to England on a mission from King Johannes, to claim pro- 
 tection for Abyssinia from the English Government. This mission 
 failed, and he returned to Abyssinia.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 39 
 
 sneezing noise behind me. This made me prick up 
 my ears ; I looked round and saw walking quietly 
 out a beautiful little male dik-dik. I rolled him 
 over with my shot gun, pulled out my knife and 
 rushed after him. He was struggling and bounding 
 about on the ground when I got up to him, when 
 I made several vigorous stabs at him with my 
 knife, but, to my great chagrin, he scampered away. 
 I ran after him, getting well torn by the bushes, 
 and found him lying dead just at the foot of a thorny 
 bush. This was the first African animal I shot, 
 and, although he was so small, I felt as proud of him 
 as a cat would with her first mouse. 
 
 At the time the dik-dik came out I heard pigs 
 grunting in a little dell below me, but I could not see 
 them at all. I went back to camp, and hearing that 
 Kirkham was up in the missionaries' house I sent 
 word to him that I had come in. I was sitting in 
 the tent when suddenly I saw a fair, rather good- 
 looking, slim man walking up to me ; he was dressed 
 in a frock-coat and forage cap — a sort of undress 
 general's uniform. It had a very strange effect to see 
 this man walk up to one in an African jungle — his 
 dress, too, not such as one would expect to sec in 
 those parts. 
 
 We soon became the best of friends. He told mc he 
 would do everything in his power to get us shooting,
 
 40 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 and forward us through the country. We had a very 
 pleasant Httle dinner in the tent, talking over our 
 prospects ; Kirkham said he would breakfast with us 
 next morning, and then go on to Gindar. At this 
 place he has built a sort of wooden shanty ; he had 
 also brought his tent with him to make arrangements 
 for us. He was attended by an Abyssinian servant, 
 named Peter Brou, a man who had been educated at 
 Malta ; this man spoke English very well, and could 
 also speak Amharic, all the Abyssinian dialects, and 
 Arabic. Kirkham recommended us to take him as 
 our servant, which we did ; he turned out very useful, 
 and was one of the best interpreters I ever knew. 
 
 Jan. 6. — After breakfast, and when Kirkham had 
 left us, the weather having cleared up, I went out 
 shooting, and walked through the jungle down to the 
 village of Ailet. The boy who was with me was an 
 Abyssinian Mussulman, living at Massowah, but he 
 seemed to know all the Shoho Arabs in the village. 
 I went into a house to look at the interior and see 
 what it was like ; it was an oblong structure built of 
 grass, divided by a grass screen into two chambers, 
 the door of the screen being covered by an Arab 
 cloth. The Arab women, who were grinding corn, 
 amused themselves by peeping at me through the 
 ragged holes in the cloth ; they were very civil, and 
 brought me a cup of coffee. I ate my lunch and then
 
 SPOUT IN ABYSSINIA. 4 1 
 
 started with two of the boys of the village, sent by 
 their father to show me the place where I might find 
 " pig." I did not see anything, but my Massovvah 
 boy annoyed me very much by coolly firing at some 
 guinea-fowl with my i6-bore gun loaded with ball, 
 so I told him that the next time he did that I should 
 give him a good thrashing. 
 
 I then walked on towards the little stream running 
 from the hot springs, rather disappointed and tired. 
 Going through the jungle I put up a dik-dik hind ; 
 this animal trotted away out of shot range, and then 
 stopped and looked at me. I had read in some book 
 of African sport that the curiosity of deer is ex- 
 traordinary, so I squatted down and twirled my 
 gun about much in the same way as signallers do 
 with a signal flag. To my great astonishment the 
 little dik-dik pricked up her ears, and gradually 
 making little circuits approached within range ; it 
 seemed almost a pity to shoot so pretty a little 
 animal, but I fired and rolled her over. 
 
 On my way towards home I heard in the jungle 
 some people chattering; they were the women of 
 the village of Ailet, gathering and cutting firewood. I 
 was walking on when two very pretty and gracefully- 
 shaped girls stepped out from the bushes ; they were 
 stripped to their waists in order to work more easily. 
 Mahomed, the Massowah boy, seemed to know them.
 
 42 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 for both of them came smiHng up to him, saying, 
 "Ah, Mahomed, how are you?" and he kissed them 
 both. This young gentleman seems to be quite a 
 Lothario, and knows all the girls about here. When 
 the ceremony of kissing was over the girls saw me for 
 the first time, and retreated like two startled gazelles. 
 
 Dik-dik flesh is very good eating ; it tastes better 
 roasted when one has bacon to add to it. The best 
 way to cook the haunch is to lard it well with bacon 
 fat and then roast it in Turkish fashion, skewered 
 through with a stick. 
 
 The above applies to gazelles as well, as these 
 animals have no fat except round their kidneys. This 
 is also the best way to cook all birds, but the larding 
 may be omitted. 
 
 Jan. y. — This morning, having bade adieu to the 
 missionaries, we started for Gindar by a short cut 
 across the hills. The missionaries are making this 
 road, but the jungle is not all cut yet. Our guide 
 was Brou, the interpreter that Kirkham had given us 
 as a servant. 
 
 Having travelled up the gorge, we passed the hot 
 spring. Here the missionaries have built a little 
 house for the poor sick who come to bathe Pushing 
 our way through thick thorny jungle we came suddenly 
 on a beautiful valley, green and fresh-looking, with 
 high hills in the background, one of which we were to
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 43 
 
 cross to reach Gindar. In the distance, on the side 
 of a hill, might be seen the station of Sabargouma, 
 where three or four Egyptian soldiers are stationed 
 to look after the customs and Egyptian interests. 
 
 On descending the valley I resolved to try to 
 shoot, as it looked a likely place for game, so I got my 
 rifle and gun and started with Mahomed, the Masso- 
 wah boy. Kirkham had given us a black, fat-tailed 
 sheep of the Asmarra breed, a celebrated one in 
 Abyssinia ; this animal followed me and assisted at 
 the death of another dik-dik. We never killed this 
 black sheep for eating, and he accompanied us all 
 through Abyssinia and became a great j^et in camp. 
 I found H. at Sabargouma, where we had a little 
 gin and water. Fisk said he saw a large hyena, but 
 the cunning brute soon slipped out of sight. He shot 
 a specimen or two for his collection. We then started 
 to ascend the steep hill in front of us ; this was a 
 lovely ride, and it reminded me very much of the 
 Himalayas without the beautiful rhododendrons that 
 grow there. The latter part of the ride was through 
 an olive grove. The air on the top of these hills is 
 most exhilarating ; I felt able to do anything, and 
 my mind was busy imagining all kinds of sport and 
 adventures in such a lovely country. About one in 
 the afternoon we entered the small valley of Gindar. 
 
 Before I go on with the journey I wish to say a
 
 44 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 little concerning Gindar, and what General Kirkham 
 proposes doing there. Gindar is a fertile valley 
 enclosed by hills ; south-south-west lies Debra Bizen, 
 which rears its head high above the rest of the hills. 
 There is a monastery on the top, and the monks are 
 said to be rich and in great favour with King Johannes. 
 The grass in the valley is very good ; at the time I 
 speak of, the Shoho Arabs had driven their flocks 
 here to graze ; and their cattle-stations are found 
 dotted about in the little vales between the hills. 
 The grass of the valley is intermixed with numerous 
 sweet-smelling herbs, such as wild peppermint, 
 thyme, etc. ; the castor-oil plant also grows wild 
 here. 
 
 The sides of the hills are covered with wild olive 
 groves, and in places we came acro.ss velvety lawns 
 which reminded us of a well-kept English pleasure 
 ground rather than the wilds of Abyssinia. Game is 
 abundant, and elephants were in the neighbourhood, 
 as the hunters from Adowa had been here. One of 
 them having broken his clumsy matchlock, was obliged 
 to return to get it mended. Koodoo, gazelle, dik- 
 dik, and other antelopes abound, as well as many 
 large pigs, and, as the Irishman is made to say, 
 guinea-fowl and partridges here "jostle each other." 
 This was, of all others, the place for us, so we de- 
 termined to stay for two or three days.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 45 
 
 Gindar has been given by the king to General 
 Kirkham, who has built a house, and has also allowed 
 the missionaries to build one. He intends trying to 
 start a bazaar and small town to supply travellers 
 going and coming to Massowah ; and also to supply 
 the Abyssinian merchants with the little European 
 necessaries they require there without having to go 
 into Egyptian territory to buy them, which at present 
 they have to do at Massowah. 
 
 I thought I would take a turn with my gun ; it was 
 a misty evening, and too late to go out shooting. I 
 wandered over the hills, and, the light failing, I was 
 " making tracks " for home ; it got darker and darker, 
 and the mist got thicker. The little Galla boy that 
 Kirkham had sent with me to show me the way, was 
 a stranger to these hills ; he never lost heart once nor 
 spoke a word: at last he uttered a sort of whine; I then 
 knew I had better trust to myself I had seen, about 
 a quarter of an hour before, the light of the fires of 
 an Arab cattle station ; I resolved to try and see the 
 light again ; so I fired my gun off twice to attract the 
 attention of those in camp, but I was between hills, 
 and they did not hear. I was pushing through the 
 wet bushes when down I slipped, head over heels, on 
 some creeper-covered rocks, but I picked myself up, 
 with no harm beyond a fright. I was determined to 
 find the light again ; and, forcing my way through the
 
 46 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 jungle, as it was getting intensely dark, all of a sudden 
 I again fell. This time I fell about twenty feet. The 
 Galla boy was more careful, and, seeing me fall, crept 
 along on his hands and knees, feeling his way as he 
 went. I clutched hold of the creepers that grew on 
 the rocks, and picked myself up. I heard water 
 gurgling beneath, and I thought to myself it was lucky 
 I did not fall farther, for I might have fared worse 
 this time. I lost my felt hat, but the most extra- 
 ordinary result of these false steps was that my little 
 i6-bore gun, which I had with me, was not the 
 least hurt, although it received several serious blows 
 against the stones. At last I caught a glimpse of the 
 welcome light. The cattle station was in a little vale : 
 the smell of the cattle now guided me, and I soon 
 found myself alongside of the thorny hedge that 
 surrounded these camps. The women were preparing 
 the evening meal, and when they saw me without any 
 hat, and looking rather scared, began to laugh. This 
 I thought unkind, so I pushed through the thorn 
 hedge and went straight to one of the little fires. An 
 old Arab was squatting by it. I was streaming with 
 perspiration, and very thirsty. I asked him for a 
 drink, and he brought me some water in a wooden 
 bowl ; no iced champagne ever tasted so good, and 
 I swallowed it all ; then I took off my coat to dry, 
 having made up my mind that I Avas to stop here
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 47 
 
 for the night. At least here was a fire and a chance 
 of some food — better than the wet jungle in any 
 case. 
 
 The old Arab seemed to understand I was going 
 to make myself comfortable for the night, and he went 
 and fetched two others, younger ones, and by signs 
 and saying the word Gindar, I made them understand 
 that I was lost. They said they would show me 
 the way home if I gave backsheesh. I showed them 
 the empty lining of- my pockets ; one does not gene- 
 rally take out small change when going shooting in 
 Africa, but this only shows how useful it is. At last 
 they agreed to show me the way for a dollar, and 
 the Galla boy and myself started for home ; about 
 half-way we met a Greek that Kirkham had sent 
 out to look for me, carrying a lantern, accompanied 
 by some native servants. I soon reached home, and 
 Kirkham congratulated me that my first adventure 
 in Abyssinia had not ended worse. 
 
 Our little dinner was a pleasant one, as it was in- 
 creased in number by the presence of an ex-French 
 navy captain who had joined the Commune and now 
 was an exile in Abyssinia. He was a wild -looking 
 old fellow, but a wonderful talker ; and he and I 
 chatted away gaily. He had come from Adowa, and, 
 having very little money, was nearly starved on the 
 road. He looked very pinched, and certainly disposed
 
 48 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 of a wonderful amount of our preserved provisions 
 with great gusto. 
 
 Jan. 8. — This morning I went out to look for 
 pigs. I was wandering about the jungle, when I saw 
 an animal on some rising ground, quite the size 
 of a donkey. Whether it was the position of the 
 ground or that the old boar — for such it turned out 
 to be — was very large, I do not know ; at all events 
 I mistook him for a donkey, and did not fire. He 
 whisked up his little curly tail and trotted off, followed 
 by his spouses and some squeakers. I ran up, but 
 they were soon lost in the thick bushes. Naturally, 
 I was dreadfully annoyed, and resolved to let fly at 
 everything in future. 
 
 I saw no end of guinea-fowl, but did not fire, being 
 on the look-out for larger game. After wandering 
 about for an hour or so, I came to the little vale in 
 which the cattle station was, the scene of my adven- 
 ture of the night before. 
 
 An old sow and two squeakers were there, enjoying 
 the green grass. I came on them rather suddenly, and 
 the squeakers trotted off, but as the old sow moved 
 after them, I broke her back with a ball from my little 
 i6-bore Purdey ; she was a very old lady, with good 
 tusks. Both the boars and sows in this part of the world 
 have fine tusks ; the boars' tusks only differing by 
 being larger. She died very game ; and as I twice drove
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 49 
 
 my knife into her throat, she was very quick with her 
 tusks and once nearly caught my shin. I lost the rest 
 of the afternoon's shooting, having to send back the 
 only boy I had' with me to camp, to ask for people to 
 carry the game home. We had liver and bacon for 
 breakfast the next morning, and it was excellent ; 
 also pork chops. 
 
 Jan. 9. — This morning, after breakfast, I went 
 out shooting, accompanied by Brou, and saw some 
 dik-dik, but did not fire at them, as I had already 
 killed three specimens. We came to a large hole 
 in a bank, not unlike a fox-earth, and I heard some 
 beasts running about inside, which Brou said were 
 pigs. I never heard of pigs going to ground before, 
 but he assured me they did so in Abyssinia. 
 
 He and I set to work to stop the hole, and we put 
 a boy over it to watch. I retired to a shady spot, and 
 told Brou to go home and send me out some lunch, 
 and bring people (some of our bullock-drivers and 
 donkey-men) to try to dig out and unearth the pigs, or 
 whatever they were. In due course of time the lunch 
 appeared, and, shortly after, Brou, with some Shoho 
 Arabs, our drivers. We tried very hard to get at the 
 animals, but they beat us ; the earth was too deep, and 
 ran in among roots ; the soil also was very hard for 
 digging with such wretched tools as the Arabs brought. 
 I longed for an English ferreter with his spade. 
 
 E
 
 so SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 A Greek, named Aristides, who is engaged here 
 for cutting wild olives for the Khedive of Egypt, 
 came to see Kirkham. This Greek employs Abys- 
 sinians to cut the wood and send it to Egypt, where, 
 I am told, his Highness uses it for parquet floors. 
 I induced him to mount a spear-head I had brought 
 out with me, on a stout stick, and it looked very 
 well and serviceable. He said he would go out 
 shooting with me next morning ; and, as he knew 
 every inch of the ground round Gindar, I was 
 delighted. 
 
 The following morning we both started off at cock- 
 crow, while the dew was on the ground, for a hill lying 
 behind Kirkham's shanty, which he had built here. 
 It was rather steep walking, but a lovely morning and 
 as fresh as possible. 
 
 The Greek was in front of me tracking up a herd 
 of Hagazin or Koodoo, when he suddenly stopped and 
 aimed at something with my rifle that he was carrying 
 for me. I stepped up as gently and quickly as I 
 could, took the rifle and fired at a red-looking deer ; 
 the animal dropped like a stone. I rushed down the 
 steep bank, and found the bullet had gone right 
 through its head between the horns. I could not 
 account for this, as I had aimed behind the shoulder. 
 The Greek said that at the moment I fired, the deer 
 turned its head round and looked at me ; as the
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 5 1 
 
 animal was standing a good deal below me, this must 
 have been the case. 
 
 It was a wonderfully lucky shot ; as, if the deer 
 had bounded a few yards away wounded, the bushes 
 in this part were so dense that it would have been 
 rather hard to find the game. This antelope turned 
 out to be a bush-buck, called in Abyssinia Doucoula. 
 
 The Greek and I then went to the top of the hill, 
 having cut up and skinned the deer and sent a boy 
 home with it ; it was a heavy load for him. My com- 
 panion showed me a little bird, the honey-bird, that 
 kept flying backwards and forwards in front of us, 
 seemingly to lead us on. Aristides explained to me 
 that this little bird not only leads on sportsmen to 
 the nest of the wild bee, but also to the lairs of wild 
 animals. Shortly afterwards the Greek stopped, and I 
 noticed he had seen something ; they were the koodoo 
 we had been tracking up, though I did not see them 
 myself. 
 
 When we got to the top of the hill the view was 
 lovely. The valley of Sabargouma lay in the distance, 
 and beyond it the low hills between us and the sea- 
 coast. We then returned to camp, and on the way 
 back I took a shot at a pig with my little i6-bore gun. 
 We had a haunch of the venison for dinner ; it was 
 very good, but without fat. 
 
 The rain poured down the best part of the night ;
 
 52 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 and, unluckily, we had put our beds at that end of the 
 shanty which was most leaky. I woke up and found 
 myself enjoying a shower-bath from the roof. H. was 
 much in the same plight, and we were both glad when 
 morning broke. 
 
 Jan. 12. — A good breakfast and some hot cocoa 
 soon warmed us up, and we started for Beatmohar, 
 the place where General Kirkham has a house. 
 This is the first table-land of Abyssinia that one 
 comes to, travelling by this route. Our luggage 
 was now carried by mules, donkeys, and bullocks, 
 driven by Shoho Arabs. It rained the whole day, so 
 the view of the hills was spoilt, which I regretted 
 very much. At the sides of the hills at the feet of 
 which the path wound, it was covered with a gigantic 
 Euphorbia, called Oualqual in Abyssinia ; it is a sort 
 of cactus, or grows like cactus, to the height of forty 
 feet or more. When its branches are wounded, a 
 milky juice oozes out, which is highly poisonous ; if 
 the least drop gets into one's eye it nearly blinds 
 one. In India, in 1870, when shooting in the Hima- 
 layas, I was amusing myself with my hunting-knife 
 by slashing at a plant, very much like this one ; a 
 drop of the juice squirted into my eye. One of the 
 hunters, a native, brought me a sort of creeper with a 
 leaf much like a vine. He screwed up the stalk of it, 
 and catching the juice in the palm of his hand, offered
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 5 3 
 
 me some, and told me to put it in my eye ; it afforded 
 instantaneous relief. I do not think this cure is 
 known to the Abyssinians, as their woodcutters some- 
 times lose their eyesight. Later in the day, as we 
 reached a higher altitude, we saw no more of this 
 poisonous plant. We travelled on slowly through the 
 mist and rain, the bullocks slipping about over the 
 rocks, and frequently having to be reloaded, or 
 the leather thongs which bound their baggage 
 tightened up. 
 
 At last v/e came to an open dell in the hills, one of 
 the camping-places on this road, called Mehdet. Kirk- 
 ham and myself with great difhculty, and after wasting 
 a number of matches, managed to light a fire, and we 
 warmed up some cold venison, frying it in oil that 
 Kirkham produced. H. did not like the dish, say- 
 ing that it tasted like hair grease ; he preferred the 
 venison au naturel : we ate a box of sardines, and 
 then started again. The road became very steep ; at 
 four in the afternoon we reached the top of the pass, 
 a narrow gully between high rocks : there would be 
 just room for two men to walk abreast. 
 
 The road after this for a short way was very good, 
 like a good hill-road in the Himalayas. At the bottom 
 of this road was a small valley, called Maihenzee : this 
 was to be our camping-place for the night, and one of 
 the staees between Asmarra and Gindar. This was
 
 54 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 the place where merchants from the interior generally 
 stop on their way to Massowah. 
 
 There was good water in the valley ; we pitched 
 our tents, but everything was wet and miserable. 
 Kirkham told us that to-morrow we should be out of 
 these rains, which I was very thankful to hear. 
 
 The cook Ali, a Cairo man, who, like all his species, 
 did not relish this sort of life, but wished himself on 
 board a comfortable diabeha navigating the Nile and 
 smoking cigarettes in the sun, made a bad fire, and I 
 saw very little prospect of dinner. I had to take his 
 place ; and I concocted some soup with the help of 
 Liebig's. extract, and I made a venison stew. We 
 ate this and then turned in as quickly as we could, 
 before our blankets got wet with the mist.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 A STRANGE " GET-UP " — AN UNLUCKY SHOT— CRANES — AN INSOLENT 
 "CHICKER" — OUR COOLIES STRIKE— FLORICAN — SERVANT HUNT- 
 ING — NIGHT MARCHING — FIRST SIGHT OF THE MAREB — "LONG LIE" 
 — COPTIC CHURCH — A PEAL OF STONE BELLS — HIGHWAY ROBBERY 
 — A CHASE — DOMESTIC QUARREL — LUGGAGE DIFFICULTIES — A 
 MOONLIGHT RACE. 
 
 Jan. 13. — We made an early start this morning, 
 as it was a lovely day, and left the tents behind to 
 stand and dry, as they would have been very heavy 
 to pack wet. The General accompanied us ; he would 
 have looked a queer figure on an Aldershot field day. 
 He wore an undress general's uniform, with a large 
 sword clanking by his side, sitting on an Abys- 
 sinian saddle with rather faded trappings ; he rode a 
 mule, the sword clanking against every rock on the 
 narrow path. We saw some partridges on the road, 
 and I had a crack at one and wounded it, but it soon 
 made away. Kirkham jumped off his mule and 
 rushed after the bird, sword and all, to finish it off 
 or catch it ; but these birds run like hares, and the 
 game was soon lost in the thick bushes.
 
 5 6 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA . 
 
 We went on ascending, and as we did the vegeta- 
 tion became thinner and thinner. At the top stunted 
 yew-trees grew, so it must be cold here at most seasons 
 of the year. We then went over some low hills, and 
 at length found ourselves on a large plain, with culti- 
 vated land here and there. A flock of large cranes 
 were flying round and round ; at last they settled 
 on a bit of ploughed land not far from the road. 
 
 I rode towards them and tried to stalk them, but 
 they would not let me come very close. I fired my 
 i6-bore gun into the " brown " as they rose, but it had 
 no effect. I would recommend all future sportsmen 
 to take out wire cartridges with them : one never 
 knows what one may come across in a wild country, 
 and a wire cartridge at close quarters w^ould act 
 like a bullet, and for long shots of course they are 
 capital. 
 
 In the distance might be seen the village of As- 
 marra ; the houses flat-roofed and built into the side 
 of the low hill on which the village stands. About 
 ten or twelve of the natives came out to meet us ; 
 they saluted us respectfully, and we touched our 
 hats. They had come out not only to meet us but also 
 to stop our baggage-bullocks from coming any farther 
 than the top of the hills, as there was cattle disease 
 among the herds of the Shoho Arabs, and an order 
 had been issued all through Abyssinia that no cattle
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. $ 7 
 
 were to travel, or be allowed to go to or from infected 
 districts : this is worthy the notice of our sanitary 
 commissioners at home. Kirkham had trotted on, to 
 make arrangements at his house for us. We left the 
 village of Asmarra, and on our left the ground fell ; as 
 we rode on we passed several pools. In the distance 
 flocks of fat-tailed sheep might be seen cropping the 
 short grass, they were of the breed spoken of before, 
 and celebrated throughout Abyssinia, One fat sheep 
 costs a Maria Theresa dollar ; * but two small ones 
 can be bought for the same money. 
 
 We saw Kirkham's little house, with a roof like an 
 extinguisher, in front of us ; it was perched on a high 
 cliff that overlooked the plain, which was dotted 
 about with water-pools. Kirkham had told us they 
 were famous places for ducks, and sometimes snipe. 
 
 We soon arrived at the house ; it was surrounded 
 by the usual hedge to be seen round all Abyssinian 
 houses ; this hedge is not growing, but made of thorn- 
 branches and stakes. The few houses which com- 
 posed the village of Beatmohar were close by. Kirk- 
 ham at once produced some honey-wine, called " tej " 
 in Abyssinia ; it was excellent, and proved very re- 
 freshing after our ride. " Tej " is made in the follow- 
 ing way : to one part of honey are added seven parts 
 of water, and well mixed ; then some leaves of a 
 
 * Value about 4^. 2d.
 
 58 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 plant called " geshoo " are put into the mixture, to 
 make it ferment ; it is put outside in the shade and 
 left for a day or two. A piece of cotton cloth is 
 strained over the mouth of the large earthenware jar, 
 or " gumbo," and through this the " tej " is poured ; 
 the servant tapping the cloth with his fingers to make 
 the liquid run freely. If one wants to make it stronger, 
 the first brew is used instead of the water ; adding 
 honey and geshoo leaves in the same way. In the 
 time of King Theodore that monarch had tej five 
 years old, which made any one drunk in a very short 
 time ; but those were the " good old times " which 
 we read of 
 
 We ate some lunch, and I took out my gun and 
 went for a stroll ; I shot a large blue crane, and saw 
 some ducks. I went out again with H. in the evening 
 to look out for ducks ; a flock of teal just as it was 
 getting dark came whistling over my head, but I was 
 not quick enough for them. On my way home I shot 
 an owl, which I presented to Fisk for stuffing. He 
 informed me it was identically the same as the barn 
 owl at home. I was rather disgusted, as I thought an 
 Abyssinian owl must be different from the home 
 species ; but he insisted that he had shot lots of them 
 in Norfolk, and said the skin of it was not worth the 
 carriage home. Over this I got rather " chaffed," so 
 I resolved not to shoot any more Abyssinian owls. I
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 59 
 
 believe it is considered very unlucky to shoot an 
 owl ! 
 
 Jail. 14. — This night we were very comfortable, 
 sleeping in a sort of divan that Kirkham had put up, 
 round the inner room of his house. It was a great 
 relief to know before turning into it that the sleeper 
 would not be the unwilling victim of a leaky roof. 
 
 We had settled, H. and I, and Fisk, to go at 
 dawn of day to try and get some duck in a pool 
 just at the foot of the high rock on which the house 
 stood, so next morning off we started. It was bitterly 
 cold and a white frost on the ground. We crept down 
 to the pot)l and let fly all six barrels into the middle 
 of the flock. Sad to relate, only three fell, which were 
 not picked up ; one of Kirkham's Galla boys was sent 
 down later in the day and discovered two. 
 
 We then proceeded up the pools ; I flushed a 
 snipe and knocked him down, he was rather a lean 
 specimen of his kind. On our way home I saw those 
 large cranes again coming towards me, so I squatted 
 down as close to the ground as I could and waited ; 
 the flock kept coming on, making a great noise and 
 screeching, but they saw me and wheeled away. 
 One old gentleman, rather in advance of the others, 
 wheeled rather close to me ; I let fly my i6-bore 
 No. I shot : it did not seem to affect him in the least, 
 when after going a little way, all of a sudden he fell
 
 6o SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 like a stone. I ran as hard as I could and found him 
 quite dead, with his backbone cut right through by 
 the shot ; how he could possibly have kept flying in 
 this state I do not know. His shank-bones will 
 make excellent pipe stems. 
 
 The rest of this day we were engaged in again 
 shifting our provisions, etc., into skin bags ; as boxes 
 are very bad things to carry either by coolies, mules, 
 or donkeys. It is the custom in Abyssinia to have 
 all one's baggage, as far as possible, packed in these 
 bags, and then the coolies do not mind carrying 
 them so much. A box is so hard it hurts a man's 
 shoulder when he carries it, and as for mules and 
 donkeys it means sore backs at once ; besides, the 
 leather thongs that bind the box on to the mule are 
 always slipping. We paid a Maria Theresa for two 
 of these bags, and found it rather difficult to get 
 them. Kirkham had gone to Asmarra to make 
 arrangements for coolies, and when he came back, he 
 said everything was completed, and that we should 
 start to-morrow at sunrise. Vain hope, as the reader 
 will see ; for, instead of starting at sunrise, we started 
 at sunset. The people who dwell in the gorgeous 
 East have no idea of time, and always think that 
 Europeans are in a hurry, and that to-morrow will 
 do as well as to-day. 
 
 We had sent a message to Belata Keda Kedan,
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 6i 
 
 the chief of this province : he lives at a town called 
 Tzazega, about half a day's journey from Bcatmohar. 
 
 yaii. 15. — In the morning no coolies appeared: 
 one of the *' chickers," or tax collectors, or head-men 
 of the village, was very insolent ; he brought three 
 coolies, and asked an exorbitant price. I said I 
 would not give it ; he then walked away laughing, 
 followed by the coolies, saying, " Well, you won't get 
 them at all now." I thought to myself, " My friend, 
 you shall pay for this." I then politely asked him to 
 walk into our enclosure, shut the door, and made a 
 prisoner of him ; put a guard over him, and told him 
 he should wait. 
 
 Kirkham's and the Galla boys were delighted ; they 
 thought, the young rascals, there was a chance of a 
 fight. We waited till the afternoon, when, coming 
 across the plain, we saw the chief, followed by a large 
 retinue, some on mules, some with shields, spears, 
 and guns, holding little plaited straw umbrellas over 
 their heads. I made arrangement that only the chief 
 himself and a few of his followers should be allowed 
 inside our little enclosure. When he arrived I met 
 him at the door, and escorted him inside the house. 
 We then told him all that had happened, and had the 
 prisoner brought in. The chief questioned him, and 
 then ordered him outside to be thrashed ; but he was 
 not punished, as he implored to be let off, and said he
 
 62 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 would use his best endeavours to get people of the 
 village to carry our baggage. We gave our Egyptian 
 soldiers a present, and they went back to Mas- 
 sowah. 
 
 We here changed our plans, as K. said it Avas only 
 a waste of time going to Adowa on our way to 
 the shooting on the Mareb and Tackazzee, and we 
 might do it coming back. Eventually, after the 
 chief's soldiers and followers had hunted up the 
 villagers, and dragged them, kicked them, and beat 
 them, they were made to carry our baggage. We 
 started about one hour before sunset, the coolies 
 having gone in front. The reason that the soldiers 
 treated the villagers in this way was, that the king, 
 who was far away, had heard there were some 
 Englishmen coming into the country, and had given 
 orders to the chiefs or governors that we were to 
 be treated with respect, and everything that we wanted 
 done for us. 
 
 We travelled across a large table-land with not a 
 vestige of foliage to be seen, and no sound to be 
 heard but now and then the bleating of the sheep as 
 they were driven to their pens near the villages for 
 the night. The moon rose, and we very soon found 
 ourselves near a village called Adouguada. All our 
 coolies had stopped ; the lazy fellows had scarcely 
 been travelling for two hours ; they had handed our
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 6l 
 
 bag-gage over to the head-man of the village. This 
 is a usual mode of proceeding in Abyssinia ; one is 
 passed on from village to village, and if the villages 
 happen to be close together the day is spent in 
 quarrelling and in looking over and counting the 
 baggage. When I rode up they were all talking at 
 once and making a horrid noise, as is usual on such 
 occasions. I asked for a hearing, and informed the 
 villagers of Adouguada that if they did not carry our 
 baggage I should take two cows and two sheep 
 from the village, and stop there all that night with my 
 servants ; under these circumstances they would have 
 to provide us with bread, etc. Brou, the interpreter, 
 advised me to do this ; he said, "It is the only way 
 to get on, and you are travelling in the king's name, 
 and can have what you want." H. then came up 
 with K., and we procured something to eat and some 
 coffee. The villagers made much noise and gesticu- 
 lation, and then at last picked up half our things 
 and went off 
 
 We then started for Sellaadarou, the place we were 
 going to camp at that night. It was bright moon- 
 light, and the moon in the East, as some of my 
 readers probably know, appears very different from 
 our moon at home. It was a beautiful ride, but a 
 little cold. We arrived at Sellaadarou about nine 
 P.M., or perhaps a little later. K., like an old soldier
 
 64 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 as he was, pitched the camp just outside the village, 
 in a sort of little garden that the villagers had made 
 to grow their capsicums in ; it was surrounded by a 
 thick thorn hedge, made of boughs cut from the 
 thorny acacia. This hedge provided us with wood 
 without any trouble ; so we made two large bonfires 
 to warm ourselves, ate some supper, and turned in 
 after a long worrying day. The other half of the 
 baggage had not come up when we retired to our 
 tents. 
 
 jfan. i6 : Sellaadarou. — After breakfast this morn- 
 ing I went out shooting, taking with me a native of 
 the village to show me the way. I " put up " some 
 partridges, among them a young florican, which I 
 shot, much to the astonishment of the Abyssinian. 
 They never can make out how birds can be shot 
 while on the wing, as their plan is to get as near 
 as possible, and then " pot " the birds on the ground — 
 a very good one too, if the sportsman is hungry. I 
 never knew before that there were floricans in Abys- 
 sinia ; there are plenty in some parts of India. The 
 bird was delicious eating. I saw two dark mouse- 
 brown deer, but could not get at them, and, of course, 
 for a long shot I wanted my Express rifle. When I 
 came into camp I found that some of the villagers of 
 Sellaadarou had carried on a few of our things. 
 H. had been round the vilkifje with some of our ser-
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 65 
 
 vants to beat up the natives ; he said it was great 
 
 fun running from house to house trying to catch the 
 men, the women swearing that their husbands or 
 sons were away. Abyssinian servants, on occasions 
 Hke these, always filch any littb things they can 
 quietly lay their hands on, and bring them to their 
 master afterwards ; I had on several occasions to 
 punish servants for this, and mal;e them take the 
 things back. H. started in the afternoon with a little 
 more of the bao^gage. I told him w c must force our 
 way on, and, as he was now on the move, to go as 
 far as he could. It will be seen afterwards he did a 
 capital march. 
 
 Chickut was the name of the village K. told us 
 we could camp at. It was rather a short march, 
 and I knew H. would go farther, for we had been 
 very much annoyed by these continual delays, so we 
 agreed that he should go on to the next village 
 beyond Chickut. K. then went back to Adouguada 
 to fetch up the other half of our baggage left behind ; 
 I said I would wait for him. Time went on, and 
 it got later and later. Fisk, who had stayed with 
 me, said he would go out and try to get something 
 good for dinner, in case we should have to sto[) 
 the night here. Just at sunset I saw K. in the 
 distance, kicking his old mule along as fast as he 
 could ; he rode up and said Maria Theresa had won 
 
 F
 
 66 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 the day — meaning the dollars. " All right," said I ; 
 " let us have something to eat — then we must start 
 and make a night march of it." Fisk then came in 
 and we made some soup. 
 
 There was nobody to carry the few things that 
 remained here, so we determined to use our mules as 
 pack animals and walk ; and a nice walk it was, too. 
 Fisk's white mule, bought at Massowah, declined to 
 keep the baggage on her back, and twice kicked all 
 the things off, scattering them right and left. Among 
 them was the spirit case and medicine chest ; thank 
 goodness, neither were broken. I had them made 
 after my own fashion, so this was a severe test for 
 them. The white mule had to be ridden after all, 
 and poor K. had to give up his riding-mule to carry 
 the things. We started an hour and a half after sun- 
 set,* and walked well right into Chickut, where we 
 arrived about eight P.M. The whole village was in a 
 deep sleep, and wc were only greeted by a few barking 
 dogs. 
 
 The road from Sellaadarou to Chickut is very 
 rugged, and is a steep descent, but it was a lovely 
 moonlig-ht night, and what we could see of the view 
 was glorious. Euphorbia, and the wild olive, formed 
 a great feature in the magnificent scenery. Poor K. 
 stuck to the walking well, but he had on a thin pair 
 
 * Sunset is at six P.M.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 67 
 
 of button boots, which were rather trying to his poor 
 feet over the rocks. He would insist that H. had 
 stopped at Chickut, but I knew very well that he had 
 gone on. I then told him what I had said to him 
 before we started. We had some cold soup we 
 brought with us, and shared a small biscuit between 
 us. H. had taken all the provisions on in front with 
 him. 
 
 The road descended more or less steeply from 
 Chickut to Deevaroua, and at last we came to the 
 Mareb. Here it is a small stream, and rises in a 
 high mountain about four miles from this place. K. 
 told me that the ground at the foot of the mountain 
 was swampy, and that there were springs as well all 
 the year round. This river Mareb is the Gash of the 
 country in and near Kassala. In its course across 
 the desert to Kassala its waters are absorbed by the 
 desert sands, but it is a foaming, muddy torrent 
 during the rains. This is one of the Nile tributaries 
 of Abyssinia, mentioned in Sir Samuel Baker's book. 
 I wish I had been able to fix the source of this 
 river exactly, but I had no instruments or other 
 appliances with which to work ; I hope to do this 
 eventually. 
 
 The village of Deevaroua, where we v/ere to stop for 
 the rest of the night, was on the top of the gorge 
 through which the little stream of the Mareb runs.
 
 68 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 A large and most beautiful tree, of the species Fictis 
 Indica, spread its branches near the stream. From 
 this we drank excellent water, and then went up to 
 the village. After a little wandering about we found 
 where H. had pitched K.'s tent, which he had taken 
 on with him ; all were asleep and snoring. I had a 
 good mind to " draw " H., but it was a quarter to 
 eleven, so I let him repose in peace. K. roused up his 
 Abyssinian cook, Blanche* by name, and she made 
 us some coffee. The servants pitched our tent, and I 
 turned in, very tired but not exhausted. It has been 
 shrewdly observed of the air on these hills, that it 
 is "like champagne, minus the headache." 
 
 Jan. 17. — We all took a "long lie" this Sunday 
 morning, it being a day of rest, and when we did 
 get up we found ourselves encamped near the village, 
 and close to a little Coptic church. The view was ex- 
 tensive, while across the table-land, which was inter- 
 sected by watercourses that looked like broken ditches, 
 might be seen three pointed rocky hills which rose up 
 out of this bare plain and formed a marked feature in 
 the landscape. On the side of one of these hills 
 nestled the village of Terramnee,t which was to be our 
 next halt. After breakfast we agreed to go and see 
 
 * Her Abyssinian name was Desta, which means "happy." 
 t Terramnee means "stones in a row." This is a Tigre word, the 
 name of one of the large divisions or provinces of Abyssinia.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 69 
 
 the Coptic church, so we sent to the priests to say we 
 were coming to pay them a visit. They, replied in a 
 short time, saying they were ready to receive us, and 
 met us at the gate of the enclosure which surrounds each 
 of these churches ; we then walked up a narrow path 
 to the church door. The priest and his two attendants 
 all bowed down and touched the threshold of the 
 church with their heads before entering ; it was a 
 round edifice, with the usual " extinguisher " roof. A 
 narrow passage runs round the inside of it between 
 the outer wall and the " holy of holies," the entrance 
 to which was covered by a sort of ragged curtain. 
 The outside wall of the " holy of holies " was covered 
 with rude frescoes — St. George and the Dragon, the 
 Virgin Mary, etc. The Virgin was portrayed with 
 very large eyes like saucers ; St. George was a meek- 
 looking creature, sticking his spear into the dragon, 
 but looking in an exactly opposite direction. Rude 
 frescoes, very similar in style, may be seen at the 
 parish church of Chaldon, near Caterham, in Surrey. 
 As we were coming away I saw some long stones 
 hung up by grass ropes on a pole, supported by two 
 short sticks ; I asked what they were. They said these 
 were used instead of church bells. They were musical 
 stones, in fact, which, when struck, gave out a very 
 pretty sound ; they were chosen so as to make a 
 scale of three notes. We gave the priest a dollar for
 
 70 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 the good of the church, at which he seemed pleased 
 and astonished. 
 
 At Deevaroua I bought a large cured cowskin, to 
 make sandals for our servants when we got into the 
 jungle. This I would recommend travellers to do, as 
 the sharp grass and thorns are too much for even the 
 horny feet of the Abyssinians, and the cowskin 
 proved of great use afterwards. 
 
 About mid-day I started alone with Brou, who was to 
 show me the way to Terramnee, and to get coolies there 
 to carry on our things to Koudoofellassie, when we 
 should be out of this province, which we have had so 
 much difficulty in getting through. I saw a ballaga* 
 coming towards me, the mule he was riding kicking 
 and plunging about as viciously as ever I saw any 
 animal do. I said to myself, " I must make the ac- 
 quaintance of this gentleman ;" so I rode up to him 
 and said, " How d'ye do T and asked him to let me 
 look at his spear. While I was looking at it I edged 
 away, then, giving my mule a good kick, galloped off 
 as hard as I could, spear and all. He was quite taken 
 aback at first, but soon began chasing me. We had 
 a nice little spurt, but, as bad luck would have it, one 
 of these watercourses was in front of me, and the way 
 
 * Ballaga is the Amharic for a farmer, or one who cultivates land_ 
 The other three classes in Abyssinia are chiefs, soldiers or followers of 
 chiefs, and merchants.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 7 1 
 
 across it lay to my left, which would bring us almost 
 together. He saw his chance, and whipped up his 
 mule, who had the legs of mine, and caught me ; 
 I then pulled up, and he asked for his spear. I 
 delayed a minute or two, and then began laughing. 
 He seemed to understand the joke, and 1 gave him 
 back his spear ; he told Brou, who was following 
 after me, that he really thought I meant to take it 
 away from him. I heard them laughing a little way 
 behind me. Abyssinians are very cheery fellows, 
 always ready for a joke, provided it does not touch 
 their pockets. 
 
 When we reached Terramnee I sent for the chicker, 
 or head-man of the village, and they said they would go 
 and fetch him. There was an assembly of natives in 
 the village, all jabbering at once. I asked Brou what 
 it was all about, and he said it was a dispute between a 
 man and his wife ; one party takes the wife's part, 
 and another the husband's ; judges are appointed, 
 and they "jaw" away as hard as they can. Several 
 natives had come in from neighbouring villages about 
 this. At length, when it was over, they had the 
 civility to attend to me : the old story — the chicker 
 could not be found ; he was in the fields ; they had 
 sent for him, etc. I asked, " Where's his house .''" 
 They showed it me, and I went up to it. The old 
 ofentleman was at the bottom of the hill which I
 
 72 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 had gone up, and in a friend's house. I told him I 
 wanted men to carry our things to Koudoofellassie, 
 and he said he would do his best, but he was not 
 chicker over all the village, and would send round 
 to the others. H. and K., with luggage and ser- 
 vants, came up, and then we had a nice row ; the 
 chickers vowed they would have our things carried, 
 but the natives would scarcely obey the chickers. I 
 called my old friend, whom I had first seen, and 
 told him that if we did not go on that day I should 
 take him a prisoner to the chief at Koudoofellassie, 
 in whose province the village of Terramnee was. Bit 
 by bit our luggage was picked up and carried on ; 
 only the heaviest part of it remained. 
 
 The day wore on, and we got more and more 
 impatient. At last the chicker said, " The people 
 will not obey us ; you must go round the village and 
 beat them up with your servants." The natives 
 were hiding away in any available corner. H. and 
 I went into one house where we had been told 
 there was a man ; the house was quite dark inside, 
 having no windows or openings of any sort. We 
 struck a lucifer — I do not suppose they had ever 
 seen one before. H. descried a man in a corner 
 and pulled him out, but he turned out to be an 
 aged priest, exempt from doing coolie work. The 
 old fellow was much disturbed, but we apologised and
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 73 
 
 said we were very sorry, and he retired to his corner 
 quietly but grumpily. Such visits as these to the houses 
 of the natives reminded me very much of what is stated 
 of the English soldiers hunting for rebels in 1798. 
 We managed to get a good number of the natives 
 unearthed. Directly one was caught he was sent off 
 under care of one of our servants to where our after 
 baggage was lying ; a package was given him, and he 
 was started for Koudoofellassie immediately. The 
 only thing that now remained was H.'s large tin 
 case. Tuckloo, one of the chickers, said there was 
 not a young man left in the village. I said, " It 
 must be carried, or I tie you to my mule and take 
 you into Koudoofellassie to the chief." He considered 
 a moment, and then another man and himself slung 
 it on a pole and carried it off. H., Fisk, and myself 
 now started " by moonlight alone " for Koudoofel- 
 lassie. The road lay across a plain almost all the 
 way, so we galloped our mules along at a great pace : 
 the old fellow, Belata Keda Kedan, sent with us 
 to guide us safely through his province, shouting 
 at us and telling us to take care of the holes as 
 we rode. We raced into camp about ten P.M., 
 yelling and shouting, being guided by the light of 
 our fires. 
 
 We found the camp pitched and dinner ready ; K. 
 had gone in front and done all this. Borum Bras-
 
 74 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 wouldeselassie, the chief of this province, was waiting 
 by the camp fire for us ; a pleasant-looking, middle- 
 aged man, who had seen good service with the king. 
 He said anything we wanted we were to ask him for, 
 and he would come the first thing in the morning 
 and see us again.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 75 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 A GENERAL BATH — RELIGIOUS PROCESSION — THE GAME OF GOUX — 
 DINNER-PARTY IN A STABLE — ETIQUETTE— GRAM — FRENCH LEAVE 
 — HOSTILITIES — A PARLEY AND RECONCILIATION — NATIVE BEER — 
 A WHIRLWIND— CULTIVATION--ROADS — FINE SCENERY — A TALIS- 
 MAN — A FIANCKE — CAPTURE OF A GUIDE — ROBBERS AND THEIR 
 PUNISHMENT— THE CROPS — CAMP ON THE MAREB — TOMATOS — 
 LIONS — A NARROW ESCAPE — SPEAR THROWING. 
 
 Jail. 1 8. — To-day, after breakfast, I overhauled most 
 of my tilings, guns, fishing-tackle, etc., and put them 
 in good order. The old soldier that Belata Keda 
 Kedan had sent with us was much interested in all 
 he saw. I asked him if he would like to go to 
 England. He replied, " I would go to your country 
 if you would give me lots of tej and arake, and 
 nothing to do." It was very amusing to see him 
 admiring his face in a little toy looking-glass that 
 H. had given him. He was to leave us here (Kou- 
 doofellassie), so we gave him a present of ten Maria 
 Theresa dollars, and he went his way rejoicing. 
 
 Borum Braswouldeselassie had come to see us 
 before breakfast ; he did not stop long, as he said
 
 y^ SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 he had to go with his soldiers and followers to attend 
 the feast of Baptism. On this day all the population 
 of the town go down to the river and bathe ; the 
 priests pray, and I believe bathe also. After we 
 had taken breakfast Brou told us that if we went a 
 little way out of camp into the town we should see 
 the priests and procession returning from the river. 
 We stood on the top of a high mound, and very soon 
 heard a most discordant braying of horns in the 
 distance. The procession now approached, the priests 
 bearing the sacred image of the Virgin, with a canopy 
 held over it ; little boys were walking in front with 
 incense. They were singing a monotonous chant al- 
 ternately, the Avomen all taking it up at one time and 
 the men at another. Borum Braswouldeselassie and 
 his horsemen were in front of the procession, galloping 
 about with their horses and firing off their guns. 
 The whole thing, except for the horsemen, looked 
 very much like a Roman Catholic procession. They 
 marched past us up to the church, and we saw them 
 no more. K. said that on occasions of this sort 
 the Abyssinian horsemen play a game called gotix, 
 so I begged of him to send a message to Borum 
 Braswouldeselassie, asking him to send some of his 
 soldiers to play the game, in order that we might see 
 it. About three or four came out on a flat piece of 
 ground, which was the market-place, and commenced
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 77 
 
 galloping their horses at full speed and throwing their 
 sticks at each other like spears, receiving them on 
 their shields. I believe there is a Turkish game, 
 called Jerrid, which is much the same thing. Their 
 horses were wretched specimens — thin, bony screws, 
 that could not gallop as fast as a person could kick his 
 hat. I asked one of them if he would let me get up 
 and try the game. So one of my servants asked, 
 " Will you lend the Feringee your horse .''" He said, 
 " The Feringee ! oh no," and galloped away as hard 
 as he could. When we had seen this, we determined 
 to go and pay a visit to Borum i3raswouldeselassie. 
 We found him just about to sit down to his dinner, 
 and he asked us to join him. My readers must not 
 imagine a table and chairs at this entertainment, as 
 the dinner was held in a stable ; Borum Braswoulde- 
 selassie and his family sitting on the ground. The 
 first thing they began to eat was some "tef" — a sort 
 of spongy, sour bread, made in large thin cakes. This 
 they dipped into a paste of red pepper, and ate it witli 
 their fingers. Borum Bras, had some very good "tej," 
 of which we drank. There was also some stewed meat, 
 which was broken up in bits by the servants with 
 their fingers, and then the dish was given to the lady 
 of the house, who divided the portions equally and 
 handed them to each member of the family as well as 
 to the guests. The enormous quantity of bread and
 
 78 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 red pepper of the most pungent kind which Abys- 
 sinians manage to get through is something extra- 
 ordinary ; they wash it down with plenty of " tej," 
 which is a capital thing to take away the fiery heat the 
 red pepper creates in the mouth. The correct thing 
 to do at an Abyssinian dinner is to take a large 
 bit of bread or meat in your hand and stuff it into 
 your neighbour's mouth ; this is considered the acme 
 of good manners ; also, your first glass of " tej " is 
 generally handed to you by the master of the house. 
 
 In the evening H. and myself went out shooting, 
 K. having told us that there were some grouse in 
 the low hills near camp, and I shot at a young 
 bird, but missed. The old cocks were calling just in 
 the same way they do on a Scotch moor — the same 
 note, but not quite so strong. I tried to approach 
 some more, but it was very steep walking in some 
 places, and the birds were exceedingly wild. 
 
 Jan. 19. — To-day was market-day at Koudoo- 
 fellassie, and Brou and myself, on our way to our 
 next camp, stopped under the shade of a small tree 
 round which the market was held. The people were 
 coming in fast with honey and butter, corn of dif- 
 ferent sorts, sulphur for making powder, etc. etc. The 
 country folks directly they arrived squatted down in 
 a line. I tried to buy a jar of honey, but of course 
 they stuck on the price for the Feringee. About
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 79 
 
 eleven A.M., or perhaps a little before, I started with 
 Brou for Adgousmou, the next village we were to stop 
 at. Goubasec, who was my gun-bearer, walked the 
 whole time in front of my mule ; I stopped under a 
 tree for about fifteen minutes and then went on. This 
 was a long march, and we were going fast. Goubasee 
 eventually turned out to be, as I had thought he 
 was, a wonderful walker, always in front of everybody 
 in the longest march, and never shirking any difficulty 
 that came in his way ; in fact, he was a most faithful 
 and useful servant, the only Abyssinian among our 
 crew whom I could really depend upon. The country 
 we w^ere going through was table-land intersected by 
 broad ravines. 
 
 My servants pointed me out two large trees in the 
 distance ; near these they said was the village of 
 Adgousmou. Abyssinian servants have quite an ori- 
 ginal way of provisioning as they march along. 
 If they pass any cornfields, particularly the Indian 
 gram, they run into the corn and take as much 
 as they want, not only for their own eating, but 
 for their master's mules. This is done regardless 
 of the shouts and imprecations of the boys who 
 are sent out from the villages to watch the corn, 
 perched in some places on a high heap of stones, in 
 others on a rude platform supported on forked poles. 
 This same gram, if the pods when quite green arc
 
 8o SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 well-boiled, makes an excellent substitute for peas. 
 Before going up to the village of Adgousmou we 
 crossed a stream, where I shot a spurwing and a pigeon 
 very like our common wood-pigeon, only not quite 
 so large. I killed these birds in case H. should not 
 turn up after my arrival with the tents, provisions, 
 etc. I then rode into the village and asked for the 
 chicken He soon came, and was a fine-looking old 
 man. I asked him for some bread for my servants ; 
 he said he had none — a reply that was plainly un- 
 true. He then sent for a bowl of sour milk, which 
 was very nasty. I gave it to Goubasee, who soon 
 polished it off and seemed to enjoy it immensely. 
 The old chicker and I sat in silence for some little time 
 enjoying the view, at least I did, and at length I arose 
 and went away, as I saw no prospect of getting any- 
 thing out of the old niggard. I settled the camp 
 should be near some trees outside the village; a ruined 
 village also, probably the old village of Adgousmou, 
 was close by. I made the servants light a fire, and I 
 sat down to consider ; but I soon began to feel very 
 hungry. What was to be done ? I had nothing 
 to eat, when I suddenly bethought myself of my two 
 birds. But how to cook them ? I adopted the old 
 poacher's plan of spitting them on the ramrod of my 
 rifle, and made Mahomed, the Massowah boy, roast 
 me some corn I had taken with me for my mule-
 
 SrOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 8 1 
 
 With these victuals I made a tolerably fair lunch, 
 washed down with water — fames optimum condi- 
 mentum, as the Latin grammar says. It was getting 
 late in the day and I was becoming bored, so I 
 said to Brou, who had been loitering behind on the 
 road and had not long come up, " We had better go 
 to the village to forage, as perhaps there has been a 
 difficulty about getting our baggage carried on from 
 Koudoofellassie, and the things will not come up to- 
 night." He answered, "Very well." So we all started 
 to the village. 
 
 I went up to the old chicker's house and asked for 
 bread, or, in fact, anything that he had. His wife — 
 who was as big a liar as himself — told me that she 
 had nothing. So I went straight in and took a large 
 jug of beer and a jar of honey, gave them to my 
 servants to carry, and walked back towards our future 
 camping-place. The old lady now began to yell, and 
 the other women of the village joined in chorus. The 
 men in the village all turned out with spears, shields, 
 guns, sticks, etc., and surrounded us, making a horrid 
 noise. They managed to get the beer away from us, 
 but we stuck to the honey, and one of the servants 
 and myself brought it to the tree where I had been 
 sitting. The natives continued yelling, and Brou tried 
 to pacify them. Some of the young fellows said, " We 
 will die ! we will die ! but you shall not keep the 
 
 G
 
 8 2 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA . 
 
 honey " — Brou having told them I would shoot if 
 they tried to molest me. The noise went on, and I 
 thought it was likely to get serious, when suddenly 
 there was a lull, and a priest stepped out from the 
 crowd and requested a parley with me. I went up to 
 him, and he made me a bow and said something in 
 Amharic, which it is needless to say I did not un- 
 derstand. The Abyssinians are Coptic Christians, 
 and I thought I would try him with a text from the 
 Bible ; so I said, " I asked for bread, and they gave 
 me a stone." I never before saw a man's face change 
 so completely ; Brou had interpreted the sentence 
 exactly. The priest then said, "You speak like a 
 king ; these people are only dirt in comparison with 
 you," etc. Well, it all ended by my keeping the 
 honey, and the villagers returning to their houses. 
 We made up a good fire. Brou produced some bread, 
 which I ate with the honey ; it was excellent — stolen 
 fruit is always the sweetest. I piled the arms near 
 the fire, rolled myself up in a shama of Brou's, and 
 lay down on a sheepskin to go to sleep. I had al- 
 most dozed off when H. arrived with all the baggage. 
 The reason he was so late was that the men at 
 Koudoofellassie demanded exorbitant prices. We 
 have now twenty coolies and three donkeys to carry 
 into Adiaboo. K. made this arrangement : so we 
 shall have no more trouble for some little time.
 
 SFOUT IN ABYSSINIA. 83 
 
 Borum Bras, brought with him a man chained to 
 one of his soldiers ; this individual, who was, I be- 
 lieve, a murderer, was going to the king to be tried. 
 The law in Abyssinia is the old Mosaic one — " an 
 eye for an eye, and a tooth for a tooth." 
 
 Jan. 20. — We started about half-past nine in the 
 morning, accompanied by Borum Bras., the chief, and 
 all his followers. He was to go with us as far as the 
 boundary of his province, and there leave us. He 
 rode a very fine mule, with his horse led in front of 
 him. The mule turned out to be a fencer; Borum Bras, 
 popping over a thorn hedge in very good form as we 
 went along. We stopped for a short rest at Adwahla, 
 a village, and Borum Bras, made his followers bring 
 us some beer, which is made from the Dargousa 
 grain. I thought it very nasty, but my servants 
 soon drank it all. I saw a rather curious pheno- 
 menon here : there w^as a sudden rush of wind, 
 then in a moment we were enveloped in a cloud of 
 dust. It was one of those whirlwinds which very 
 often occur in the East, especially on broad plains. 
 There is not a breath of wind stirring, but, all of a 
 sudden, you see a little curl of dust coming towards 
 you ; and it gets larger and larger as it proceeds. All 
 the dust of the village was carried up in a column 
 towards the skies. One of Borum Bras.'s servants, on 
 seeing this, immediately covered me up in the cotton
 
 84 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 cloth he was wearing ; and I scarcely know which 
 was worse, the smell of the Abyssinian's garment or 
 that of the dust. 
 
 All the country we had been travelling through was 
 highly cultivated, and the ballagas were, as far as I 
 could see, breaking up fresh land every day for 
 sowing ; in fact, I should say that the whole province 
 of Tigre was in a very prosperous condition. It is a 
 great pity such a country as this, which to all intents 
 and purposes is close to Europe, should not be made 
 use of in some way or other. Cotton would grow in 
 most parts with great luxuriance ; it is grown in the 
 ■province of Walkait, and brought into the rest of 
 Abyssinia by large caravans, who exchange it for 
 grain, salt, etc. In the valleys among the hills I 
 believe all sorts of things would grow, and in a short 
 time I hope to send out seeds of all the English 
 vegetables, to make a trial of them at Gindar. There 
 is one plant which would return very high profits to 
 the growers, and that is cinchona, for quinine. Where 
 plenty of water is to be had I am sure this plant 
 would do well. Of course the great drawback to all 
 commerce in Abyssinia is the badness of the roads ; 
 in fact, there are no roads, merely paths across the 
 table-lands, and as a rule among the hills the roads 
 follow the dry watercourses. 
 
 When Borum Bras, and his servants had had enoueh
 
 SFOR T IN AB YSSINIA. 8 5 
 
 beer we started again. He accompanied us to the 
 verge of this large table-land we had been going over, 
 and seemed very particular about the exact boundary 
 of his province and the spot where to leave us. We 
 got off our mules and said, " Good-bye," shaking 
 hands with him. He wished us a pleasant journey 
 and abundant sport ; and so we parted with the most 
 civil Abyssinian I had yet met. The ground fell very 
 suddenly here, and we began to descend a rocky 
 road. If I could only make the reader appreciate the 
 beautiful scenery that now lay spread before us ! but 
 I am afraid that words would convey but a poor idea 
 of its grandeur and beauty ; so we must continue on 
 our road. Some parts of the descent were so steep 
 that I had to get off my mule and walk. We had 
 thoughtlessly omitted to bring cruppers for our saddles, 
 so we often found ourselves nearly astride of the mule's 
 head instead of his back ; the only way to remedy 
 this was to get off and shift the saddle, which was 
 tiresome work. K. told me that this was a fearful 
 hill to ascend during the rains, the mules slipping 
 about and tumbling down. We got to our camping- 
 place about two hours before sunset — a pretty spot 
 with plenty of grass, and the water came from 
 deep pools close by. I took my gun and went 
 for a stroll but saw nothing, and I only heard an 
 old cock grouse calling. H. had gone in an opposite
 
 86 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 direction, but he too had seen nothing to provide 
 sport, 
 
 ya7i. 21. — This morning we had time to look about 
 us before starting ; the township of Gundet lay 
 scattered over the little hills which rose out of this 
 valley. I resolved to go up to the village and 
 procure a goat and some bread. K, had provided us 
 with a document which was stamped with the king's 
 seal ; this, when the Abyssinians saw it, had the 
 effect of making them give what was wanted. The 
 king seldom if ever gives his seal to any one ; and the 
 seal itself, from which the impression is taken, is 
 carried about hung round the neck of one of his page 
 boys. I started with Goubasee and Brou for one of 
 the cluster of huts I saw on the top of the hill ; the 
 servants said it was there the chief of the village 
 resided. The ascent was steep, but we caught the old 
 gentleman sitting outside his house basking in the 
 morning sun ; no doubt he would have bolted if he 
 had had any intimation of our coming. We said, 
 " How d'ye do V and then I showed him the king's 
 seal, and said we wanted a young fat goat, of which 
 there are large herds here. The cattle of Gundet are 
 also very fine. He said if we would come into his 
 house he would talk about it. Well-to-do Abyssinians 
 always have a large round hut set apart for the recep- 
 tion of visitors. His son produced some "tej," which
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 87 
 
 was very good, and turning round to his father just 
 before pouring it out lie said laughingly, " I don't 
 know whether we ought to be drinking this tej, which 
 is made for my marriage feast." I asked him if his 
 future wife was pretty ; he said, " Oh, yes, and she 
 has plenty of cattle." This is the usual dowry in 
 Abyssinia, especially among the ballagas ; so my 
 readers will see that people in that country marry for 
 a fortune as much as ours do at home. 
 
 H. and K. now came up to the house. The fat 
 goat was brought and given to one of the servants to 
 drive before him ; and we started for the Mareb, where 
 we were going to stay a little time to shoot. There was 
 a difficulty about finding our way, so we took a guide 
 from one of the villages as we passed. This man did 
 not seem to understand where we wanted to go to, 
 and took us to another village, rather out of our road. 
 Here we had a dispute, as a man from this village 
 refused to go with us as guide ; we tied him by his 
 shaina to our first guide, and sent them on in front 
 of our mules. All the women and some of the men 
 in the village remonstrated and made a great noise, 
 chattering and yelling to the top of their voices ; 
 when I ran in among them and pushed them right 
 and left. This effectually stopped the noise, and we 
 continued our journey in peace, while K. was much 
 amused at my proceedings.
 
 88 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 We passed by Aila Mareb, a village on the side of 
 the hill. This is the last village before entering the 
 desert, as the Abyssinians call all wild jungle ; that 
 is to say, parts of the country that are not inhabited. 
 On the right of the path we were travelling along 
 rose a large hill, with a table-land at the top. The 
 peculiar shape of it struck me very much ; as another 
 ridge rose on the table-land, it looked in the dis- 
 tance like a vast breastwork. This hill overlooks a 
 large jungled plain through which the Mareb runs — 
 celebrated at one time as the abode of a noted 
 " shifter," or robber, who defied the king's troops for 
 some time and used to ravage the villages lying near 
 the plain. He was caught at last ; and the king said 
 he would not kill him, as it was a pity to send him 
 out of the world without giving him time to repent. 
 So his eyes were put out with a hot iron, and he was 
 allowed to live among his family and friends. This 
 is a good instance of Abyssinian subtlety and cruelty. 
 
 Our road now lay through thick jungle, and in some 
 parts high grass. The hills soon ceased, and we found 
 ourselves in the valley of the Mareb. All of a sudden, 
 on emerging from the thick jungle, we came on a 
 fallow field ; the crop had been reaped, and was 
 stacked close by. The ballagas living near the valley 
 of the Mareb very often sow crops after the rains, as 
 the soil by the side of the river is very fertile indeed.
 
 SFOJiT IN ABYSSINIA. 89 
 
 This crop is watched by small boys of the village, 
 to protect it from birds, deer, elephants, etc., but in 
 many cases the best part of it is destroyed. The 
 crop, or rather crops — for sometimes they reap two or 
 three — are so heavy that it does not greatly matter if 
 a little is eaten. The dry bed of the Mareb was at 
 the bottom of this field, and thick, impenetrable jungle 
 rose up on all sides, so we agreed to camp in the 
 open field by the bank of the river. 
 
 I said the river was dry ; by this I mean that the 
 water runs under the sand, and is got at by making 
 a hole, when it gradually filters through. The water 
 is excellent for drinking, and deliciously cool. I 
 ordered my servants to make a large hole in the 
 sand, and the water here I arranged should be 
 kept apart for our own drinking ; no one was 
 either to wash in it or foul it in any way. It is 
 a very good plan when near a stream to make your 
 servants do all their washing, etc., down the stream, 
 so as to keep the water as pure as possible for your 
 own drinking. The time we spent on the Mareb I 
 shall always look back to with great pleasure. Our 
 little camp was very conveniently fixed. The jungle 
 here teemed with all sorts of most beautiful birds, 
 including partridges and guinea-fowl in abundance. 
 The little sandgrouse used to come in flocks every 
 evening to drink from the scattered pools along the
 
 90 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 river-bed. The jungle also gave us most delicious 
 wild tomatos, and as it was the dry season it had 
 up to this time been almost impossible to procure any 
 green vegetables, except the gram before mentioned. 
 These tomatos were very acceptable, they were the 
 sweetest I ever ate, far better in flavour than our 
 own cultivated ones ; we used to make excellent 
 salads with them, and also get them stewed. I 
 had felt the want of green vegetables very much, 
 and I am persuaded that, in a hot country, eating 
 largely of provisions preserved in tins is not at all 
 good. 
 
 The ballaga to whom the field belonged in which 
 we were camped said a lion used frequently to come 
 and bask in the sun and look at him while he was at 
 his work, not taking the smallest notice. There must 
 have been some of these animals about, as we used to 
 see fresh tracks almost every day ; but, alas ! not one 
 single one did we catch sight of the whole time ; and 
 as all sportsmen know who have been in Africa, there 
 is no animal so hard to discover or get near when 
 seen. The lion is scarcely the noble beast which is 
 seen represented in pictures, or read of in nursery 
 books and fables ; on the contraiy, he feeds on 
 carrion when he can get it, and sneaks away at the 
 approach of man. The tiger in India is a much finer 
 animal. In the evening I went a few hundred yards
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 9 1 
 
 out of camp down the river, and shot an old cock 
 guinea-fowl and a brace of small sandgrouse. These 
 latter were most lovely little birds, and Fisk preserved 
 one for H.'s collection. 
 
 Jan. 22. — ^I find, according to my journal, that the 
 events of this day were most unlucky. I went up the 
 river with Goubasee and the elephant-hunter that Brou 
 had with him as a sort of servant, I only saw a deer 
 cross the dry bed of the river in front of me, but out 
 of .shot. I had gone up some little way, and was 
 resting, sitting on some large granite rocks. The force 
 of the water during the rains must be tremendous, as 
 these rocks were scooped and hollowed out as if 
 by the hand of man. A large pool of water was just 
 below me ; the hot weather had not yet dried it up, 
 and the basin of rock prevented it filtering away 
 through the sand. My rifle lay close by me, and 
 wishing to put it at half-cock, I touched the trigger 
 without taking it up. By mistake I fingered the 
 wrong one : it went off, and as nearly as possible shot 
 Goubasee, who was reclining close beside me. He took 
 it very well, and the elephant-hunter only laughed, 
 and made a movement as if digging in the sand with 
 his stick ; meaning, if the ball had hit him it would 
 have been all up with poor Goubasee, and we should 
 have had to bury him, I got up very much disgusted 
 with myself, and walked over the rocks on the way
 
 92 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 back to camp, but on the way I slipped and fell, 
 
 denting both the barrels of my little i6-bore. "It 
 
 seldom rains but it pours :" these two accidents occurred 
 
 in the space of about five minutes. The gun was 
 
 rendered quite useless by this accident ; so I returned 
 
 home dejected, and on the way I amused myself by 
 
 throwing a spear at a mark on a tree. The two 
 
 Abyssinians who were with me made very good 
 
 practice. It is extraordinary how hard it is to make 
 
 sure of hitting anything with this weapon, though 
 
 the mode of throwing it is simple enough. The 
 
 spear is held in the right hand, not over the head, but 
 
 about in a line with the shoulder ; lightly balancing 
 
 it one takes three steps, starting with the left foot, 
 
 and delivers the spear as the right foot comes to the 
 
 ground. King Theodore was a celebrated spear 
 
 thrower ; it is said he could make sure of a man at 
 
 thirty yards or more. On my way home I was 
 
 puzzling in my mind how to get the dented barrels of 
 
 my little gun straight again. I had some hardened 
 
 bullets with me for my rifle, which fitted this gun 
 
 exactly, and I thought if one of these bullets was 
 
 introduced into the barrel and gently and gradually 
 
 tapped with one of our wooden tent-mallets it might 
 
 straighten it When I got to camp I told Fisk 
 
 what I thought of it ; he said he would try, and 
 
 being a very handy fellow and understanding guns
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 93 
 
 well, the experiment proved a complete success, and 
 the gun shot just as well as it did before. Of course 
 the dents were not completely obliterated, but suffi- 
 ciently for all practical purposes. I must not forget 
 to say the barrels had been injured about half-way 
 down from the muzzle.
 
 94 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 A WART-HOG — "BRUNDO" BUTCHERING — AN "ETON BLUE" BIRD 
 — BABOONS — DESERTED VILLAGE^ — ROUGH WALKING— THE ABYS- 
 SINIAN ADAM AND EVE — JEALOUSY — THE PRIESTS— SAVAGE CUS- 
 TOMS — TAMARISK COVER — NATIVE SPORTSMEN — DANCING AND 
 SINGING — WANT OF A DOG— NEWS OF A LION — RED POCKET- 
 HANDKERCHIEFS AND THEIR EFFECT- " BORROWED PLUMES " — 
 THE JUNGLE ON FIRE — WE STEER WEST — "BLACKMAIL" — 
 SUMMARY JUSTICE. 
 
 Jan. 23. — I started very early this morning, 
 before sunrise — or with the " morning star," as the 
 Abyssinians say — and went down the river to see 
 what sport I could find. It was so cold that I rode 
 out of camp on my mule, wrapped up in an Ulster. 
 Directly the sun rose it got warm, but up to that 
 time the air was very piercing. After going down the 
 river some little way we came to a large field of 
 Dargousa corn : here I stopped, and leaving my 
 mule in care of one of the servants, determined to 
 walk over some of the hills on the right bank of the 
 river and see what I could find. Goubasee, my gun- 
 bearer, was very anxious to stop and warm himself at
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 95 
 
 a fire which two of the ballagas had made in a sort of 
 hut, which \\'as built to live in during the time that 
 the corn was ripening and that they were thrashing it 
 out. These natives slept in the hut, and guarded the 
 corn at night from the inroads of wild beasts. I told 
 Goubasee to come on and not lag behind — as after 
 it gets hot in this country one never sees any 
 game, for all retire to the thick jungle. I walked 
 up a steep hill, and soon came, at the top, on a 
 broad level plateau. Part of this plateau was culti- 
 vated ; the rest of it was short, dry grass, which 
 reached up to the knees. It looked a very likely 
 place for game, especially pigs or deer. I made 
 Goubasee and another man I had with me spread out 
 and walk through the grass, in the hopes of " putting 
 up " something ; but we saw nothing there. Where 
 the grass ceased there was a rocky, stony piece of 
 ground, with short, stunted trees growing on it. All 
 of a sudden, by the side of one of these little trees, I 
 saw a fine old boar standing. He looked steadily at 
 me, and I looked at him — we were both very much 
 taken by surprise, as I almost came on the top of 
 him. The colour of this animal is so much like the 
 dried-up ground that it is very hard at first to discern. 
 H. had lent me his Express this morning, so I 
 fired and hit him behind the shoulder. He galloped 
 ofi", and was circling round towards me, when I gave
 
 96 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 him the left barrel, which caught him just behind the 
 ear ; he rolled over like a rabbit, and lay with his 
 legs kicking in the air. He turned out to be a wart- 
 hog. We skinned him and took off his head, which I 
 have kept. Goubasee, while the operation of skinning 
 was going on, cut off large lumps of the quivering 
 flesh and stuffed them into his mouth ; he seemed 
 to enjoy it very much. Nearly all Abyssinians eat 
 brimdo, which is their name for raw meat, and in 
 consequence of this they are all affected with tcBJiia, or 
 tapeworm, and have periodically (I believe once a 
 month) to take a very strong purgative medicine, 
 which they call coiissott. This destroys the worm for 
 a time, but it always reappears again. By reason of 
 this, nearly all Abyssinian men are very hollow- 
 cheeked, and some of them exceedingly thin ; but, 
 notwithstanding this, their powers of marching long 
 distances over their hills with very little food is 
 something marvellous. 
 
 When we had skinned the wart-hog and taken 
 away what we wanted for food, we hung up the 
 carcase in a tree. Before going any farther I wish to 
 recommend all sportsmen who go out to wild countries 
 to learn a little butchering before leaving home ; it is 
 most useful not only to know how to cut up a beast, 
 but also to know the different parts of the animal, 
 their names, and what to reject and what to keep for
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 97 
 
 food, and how to remove the parts from the carcase. 
 Ahnost any afternoon at the slaughtering-houses of 
 the live meat market near the Great Northern Rail- 
 way, London, the butchers may be seen killing, 
 skinning, and dressing for the dead meat market, 
 both mutton and beef, and for a small gratuity they 
 are very ready to give any information. 
 
 I sent home one of the servants with the skin and 
 the head, and went on to look for more game with 
 Goubasee. I saw in the distance a rather curiously- 
 forked stick, as I thought ; it was just over the top of 
 the grass. I never suspected for an instant that this 
 was an animal, so did not attempt to stalk in any 
 way, but walked straight on. To my great surprise, 
 however, I saw a beautiful, light red-coloured deer 
 lying just at the edge of the dry grass near an open 
 space. Of course when the animal saw me it jumped 
 up and bounded away at full speed ; I took a snap 
 shot — and missed. This is a good instance of how 
 difficult it is when one first goes into a strange 
 country to distinguish game, for it is some little time 
 before the eye gets accustomed to the strange scenery, 
 and the ear to the unfamiliar noises and sounds that 
 are heard in a wild jungle. The forked stick, as 
 I thought it, was the two little pointed ears of 
 the deer. I now walked round this small plateau, 
 and determined to make for my mule and go home 
 
 H
 
 98 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 to breakfast, as it was getting hot. H. as well 
 had been out in the morning, and had seen a 
 large herd of Hagazin or koodoo, but could not get 
 near them. There was a very beautiful bird to be 
 seen in this jungle near the Mareb, in shape like an 
 English cuckoo, but of a very lovely light blue ; as 
 most of my readers will know the tint of Eton blue, 
 it was almost exactly that colour. We shot several 
 specimens, which Fisk preserved. I had seen, the 
 evening before, a pair of wild geese in a pool down 
 the river, so I went out to try and get a shot at them. 
 I told K. that I was going to shoot them both at 
 one shot if I could ; he said, " They are a great 
 deal too shy, you won't get near them." I went 
 down the river, when, lo, I saw my two friends 
 swimming about in a small pool. I fired at them with 
 my i6-bore No. i shot, killing the gander outright. 
 The goose flapped on a little way, and I thought I 
 had not got her, when Goubasee, who was with me, 
 rushed off down the river, having heard a faint cackle 
 in the distance, and came back with the goose in his 
 hand. It was very lucky that the bird made any 
 sound at all, as it was nearly pitch dark. I came back 
 to camp triumphantly with my two geese, and the 
 next evening we had them roasted and stuffed with 
 onions — they were excellent, and were among the 
 few things in Abyssinia that I had tasted really good. 
 
 I
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 99 
 
 Jan. 24. — I started very early indeed this morning 
 — in fact, by moonlight — in order to get on the 
 ground where I thought I should find game, before the 
 heat arose. The day before, I had seen a conically- 
 shaped mountain lying north of where I had been 
 shooting. Instead of leaving my mule in the culti- 
 vated ground near the river, I turned up a path on 
 the right bank of the river, and rode some little way 
 into the hills. I left my mule on a little eminence 
 just below the edge of the table-land which I had shot 
 over the day before, and walked on towards the 
 mountain. I saw nothing but tracks of deer till I got 
 nearly to the top, and it was a very steep climb 
 indeed. On a little open space just below the sum- 
 mit of the mountain I saw some jungle fowl pecking ; 
 they were not in the least like the Indian jungle fowl 
 but brown-looking birds ; in fact, they had the same 
 colour throughout, and exactly the shape of little 
 bantam hens. Unluckily, I had not my shot gun with 
 me, as I would have given much to have shot one of 
 these little creatures ; but they ran away into the 
 jungle in a long file, and I did not see them again. I 
 now made for the summit of the mountain. There 
 was a small, thickly-wooded hollow just below where 
 I was climbing, and I thought very likely there might 
 be something lying in it, so I picked up a stone and 
 rolled it down, when out leaped two of those mouse-
 
 lOO SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 brown deer that I had seen at Sellaadarou ; they 
 rushed away through the jungle, and I could only get 
 a snap shot at them, but managed to hit one of them. 
 I then climbed to the top of the mountain, on my 
 way towards which, I had heard a great number of 
 baboons chattering among the rocks, but when they 
 saw me they all scampered away. 
 
 At the top, to my great astonishment, I found a 
 small level plateau and the ruins of a village ; the 
 circular walls of the huts were still standing, and 
 broken pottery was lying about in all directions. 
 This, most likely, was one of the villages that the 
 robber of the Mareb devastated, of whom I have 
 spoken before. What struck me most was how and 
 where the villagers got their water, as the country 
 round here was particularly dry ; they must have 
 gone to the Mareb for it, which was at some dis- 
 tance. I searched all about the mountain in hopes 
 of finding a spring, as I was very thirsty myself, but 
 there was no such thing to be seen. I was a little 
 tired with the climbing, so, getting under the shade of 
 one of the ruined walls, I curled myself up and went 
 to sleep for nearly an hour, Goubasee squatting close 
 by, watching me like a dog. When I awoke the 
 sun was high, so I thought I had better go home to 
 breakfast, and went down the opposite side of the 
 mountain to that I had come up. I saw my mule
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. i o i 
 
 like a speck in the distance, and made straight across 
 country for it, much to the chagrin of my gun-bearer, 
 who wished to go by a path which hiy rather out of 
 the straight hnc. It was a heavy walk, as the jungle 
 was very thick ; in fact, in one patch of thorns I 
 found myself completely suspended. My face and 
 hands were torn, but at length I reached my mule, 
 feeling very fatigued, as the walk had been a long 
 one. When back in camp I arranged that K., to- 
 gether with Cassa, one of our head servants who 
 had charge of our transport arrangeuients, should 
 go on to Adiaboo with our heavy baggage, and 
 that we- should change our camp some little way 
 down the river in order to shoot over fresh ground. 
 I went out of camp in the evening, and a little 
 way down the river I heard a great rush in the 
 jungle on the bank. My gun-bearer said it was a 
 lion, when I sat down and waited for some little time, 
 but I could hear no sound, nor could I see anything, 
 so I went home to dinner. 
 
 K. and I after dinner, over the camp-fire, were 
 talking of the Abyssinians and their religion. He 
 said that their version of the " fall of man " was 
 rather curious. It was this : Adam and Eve, who 
 lived in a beautiful garden, were happy and con- 
 tented, till one day the serpent came and said to Eve, 
 " Where is Adam ?" She answered, " He is in another
 
 I02 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 part of the garden." So the serpent sneeringly said, 
 " Oh, indeed, do you think so ?" Eve rejoined, " For 
 Avhat reason do you sneer ?" The serpent replied, 
 " You think yourself the only woman in the world ?" 
 and she said, "Yes, and a most beautiful woman." 
 The serpent then said, " Adam often stays away from 
 you, does he not, now .'' I will show you another 
 woman ;" on which he produced a looking-glass. Eve 
 saw her image reflected in it and immediately became 
 jealous. The serpent then said, "If you wish to 
 secure Adam's love for ever and ever, you must eat of 
 the fruit which I will point out to you." So came 
 about the fall of man, according to Abyssinians. 
 This is quite consistent with Abyssinian character 
 and ideas, as probably no people are more vain 
 or conceited than they ; jealousy in all things is 
 one of their chief failings. Abyssinians, in their 
 religion, are great bigots, and the whole country is 
 very much at the present time under the influence of 
 the priests. The king himself is very particular about 
 his religious observances, and priests and monasteries 
 are very often richly endowed. The Abyssinians' 
 hatred of the Mussulman is extreme. They have 
 always looked upon the Egyptians with great ab- 
 horrence as well as terror, for already part of their 
 country called Bogos has been annexed by them. 
 They think that the Mussulman will try and overrun
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 03 
 
 the whole of Abyssinia, and, according to events that 
 are now taking place, this does not seem at all 
 improbable. 
 
 An Abyssinian is thought a great deal of if he 
 goes to Jerusalem, and they always think that the 
 Turk is going to destroy the holy places and sweep 
 away the relics that are kept there. 
 
 It may not be known to some of my readers that 
 the Queen of Sheba is supposed to have ruled over 
 Abyssinia, and at that time the country was evi- 
 dently a great deal more prosperous and civilised 
 than it is now. Elephants are said to have been used 
 as beasts of burden ; nowadays, the natives have not 
 the smallest idea of taming this most useful animal. 
 There exist large ruins of palaces both at Goujam and 
 at Gindar, which testify to the wealth and magnifi- 
 cence the conntrx' originally boasted of It seems to 
 me a great pity that a country which is comparatively 
 so near Europe, and with a good seaboard, should be 
 so completely lost to the world. What few Abyssinian 
 chiefs I saw always impressed upon mc that we, the 
 English, ought to come and live in the country. They 
 had formed, I am sure, a great opinion of England's 
 wealth and power from what they saw and also heard 
 of the Abyssinian expedition. I was told at Masso- 
 wah that an enormous quantity of material of different 
 sorts, that had been left behind after the war, quite
 
 1 04 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 made the fortune of a tribe that lived on the coast ; 
 for they sold all these materials at Massowah to the 
 Egyptian government. It forcibly struck me, while 
 travelling over these fertile lands, what an extensive 
 field there is for British industry and enterprise. 
 Abyssinia contains considerable mineral wealth ; but 
 whether it is sufficiently localised to make its working 
 remunerative remains to be discovered. I tried to 
 get some information on this point from the French 
 bishop of Keren, who came down to Massowah with 
 us, and he told me he thought that minerals were not 
 to be profitably worked with the present means of 
 transport. K. often assured me that he had seen 
 unmistakable evidences of gold. If once there was a 
 gold rush to this country, it would certainly open it 
 up in a way ; but the experience of other countries 
 makes one doubt whether such would prove a desirable 
 commencement to civilisation. 
 
 Very often on riding into the village I was greeted 
 by the Mussulman salutation of " Salaam,'' and they 
 always asked my servants if I was a Mussulman. It 
 was explained to them I was really a Christian, at 
 which they were much astonished. All the priests in 
 Abyssinia that I happened to meet I found to be very 
 sensible fellows ; in fact, they are the only educated 
 members of the community. They dislike European 
 missionaries for the reason that the missionaries educate
 
 SFOjR T in ABYSSINIA. 1 05 
 
 the people, which education the priests endeavour to 
 check as much as possible. There is a country much 
 nearer home than Abyssinia which was, up to a short 
 time since, much in the same state ; in fact, that 
 expression of " priest-ridden country " may be ap- 
 pHed to Abyssinia with as much force as it used to be 
 appHed to the Sister Isle. 
 
 Before I go farther, I must mention that at this 
 camp we killed a cow for the benefit of our coolies 
 and servants, who ate it raw. K. had done this 
 while we were out of camp, so I did not see the 
 squabble which ensued. The bits were shared out 
 equally, but one of the men complained, said his 
 quantity w'as short, and he threw it at the man's head 
 who w^as dividing the portions. Then a general row 
 ensued, and they might be seen running about the 
 camp tearing lumps of raw flesh out of each other's 
 hands and cramming them into their mouths to get 
 rid of them as quickly as possible, much in the same 
 w^ay as a pack of hounds would break up a fox. 
 When an Abyssinian sees or scents raw flesh he 
 becomes a perfectly wild savage ; and the women eat 
 brwido as well as the men. 
 
 Jan. 25. — In the afternoon, H, and I started down 
 the Mareb, intending to go a short way and then 
 pitch our camp. We followed the bank of the river, 
 but it was very deep walking, as the damp sand gave
 
 io6 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 way under the mules. I very nearly got bogged, only 
 just slipping off my mule in time, and directly the 
 weight was off his back he recovered himself. The 
 banks of the river, on both sides, were fringed with 
 tamarisk bushes, which form a thick cover, a favourite 
 one in India for tigers. We fixed our camp at the 
 place where the Zareena joins the Mareb ; at this time 
 of the year — that is to say, the hot weather — ^^the 
 Zareena is a beautiful running stream, and the water, 
 the servants told us, was considered excellent. We 
 pitched our tent on the shingly bed of the Mareb, and 
 I amused myself, with the help of my gun-bearers, by 
 getting firewood for the night, as Fisk and the luggage 
 had not come up yet. On the way here we passed 
 some Abyssinians sitting in a small bower, made of 
 branches, which was constructed over a water pool. 
 They had come down from the villages to hunt — that 
 is to say, to squat over the pool watching in turns, 
 night and day, for any animal that might chance to 
 come and drink. I do not think they killed much 
 game, and they seemed to spend most of their time 
 smoking a pipe, a rude sort of hookah, with a cocoa- 
 nut as the receptacle for the water that the smoke 
 passed through. 
 
 This evening I assembled our servants and coolies 
 and induced them to give us a dance and song in 
 their own fashion, I accompanying them on my banjo
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 07 
 
 which I had brought with me. The dancing was rather 
 curious : all stood round in a circle singing a mono- 
 tonous chant and clapping their hands ; one stood out 
 in the circle and went through extraordinary contor- 
 tions, throwing his body backwards as far as possible 
 and then twisting quickly round. In one part of the 
 dance they all squatted down and wriggled their 
 bodies about, making a sort of hissing noise with their 
 teeth. I requested Brou to translate the words of the 
 song, which were, "Plough, ploughman, plough, nor turn 
 your attention to merchandise ;" this meant, of course, 
 stay at home, till your land, and lead a quiet life ; do 
 not seek other riches in far countries. It was repeated 
 over and over again, like most Eastern songs ; and 
 they would have gone on all night, I believe, if we 
 had allowed them. 
 
 ya7t. 26. — I went out in the morning at day- 
 break and saw literally nothing but a dik-dik. There 
 are vast quantities of partridges amongst the tama- 
 risk bushes, which Fisk shoots for the pot with great 
 success. I always regret not having brought out a dog 
 of some sort or other, as dogs are always useful for 
 retrieving birds. I frequently came across the tracks 
 of koodoo, but never saw one. H. told me, when 
 he came back to camp, that he had " rolled over " a 
 deer, and, on running up to secure him, the animal 
 staggered away amongst the high grass and jungle and
 
 1 08 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 was lost. This was very bad luck, as it was the first 
 deer he had hit. I went down the river in the evening, 
 a very beautiful walk ; the Mareb wound in some 
 places among rocks, in others through thick jungle. I 
 stopped to rest for a short time ; a little gazelle ran out 
 and crossed the river bed a little way off. I shot with 
 my muzzle-loading rifle, and missed. This was another 
 chance gone for the Express. I found when I got 
 back to camp that some natives had been in ; in fact, 
 they were the sportsmen whom we saw in their hut 
 beside the pool. They told us that a lion, a month ago, 
 had killed a man and eight cows, but this was not of 
 much use to us now. Why is it in all sport, whether 
 hunting, shooting, or fishing, you hear that you ought 
 to have been there the other day, or else it is too early 
 — you ought to have come later ; the ground is very 
 hard, or the scent bad ; the birds are still wild ; or 
 else, when you go fishing, the water is thick, or the 
 fish are not on the feed, etc., etc. .-' 
 
 Jan. 27. — I went out this morning with two of the 
 native hunters who had come into camp the day before. 
 We wandered over the hills, but I did not succeed in 
 shooting anything, and only saw two gazelles scouring 
 away in the distance. On the table-land, where I found 
 these gazelles, there was a very singular cavity in 
 the rocks, just on the edge of a cliff; it was almost as 
 if it had been hollowed out by the hand of man ; it
 
 SFOJi T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 09 
 
 was oblong-shaped, and it could easily have held two 
 or three hundred people. The day was very hot, and 
 the sun beat down on the dry rocks, so I made the- 
 best of my way down the steep side of the hill into 
 the bed of the Mareb, which ran underneath. On the 
 way home I fired at a white eagle with my rifle, and 
 picked him off the top of the tree he was perched on, 
 but the bullet had so injured the bird that he was not 
 worth preserving. This was really a bad morning's 
 sport. H. had done no better^ than myself; and it 
 was a good deal owing to this that we determined to 
 move off the next day. This afternoon I presented 
 the hunters, who had been out with me, with three 
 common cotton pocket-handkerchiefs, of which I had 
 bought a good many at Bologna, in Italy, on my way 
 ouc. They seemed to be delighted with them, and 
 grinned and laughed, and passed them round for each 
 other to admire. 
 
 After luncheon, H. and I determined to ride down 
 the Mareb and explore that line of country. We 
 had not gone very far before we saw our friends 
 the hunters sitting round a small pool of water, 
 then tying the handkerchiefs round their, heads and 
 admiring themselves, using the water as a looking- 
 glass. They looked very ridiculous, and seemed highly 
 delighted with their personal appearance, which they 
 evidently felt was greatly improved by the red cotton
 
 1 1 o SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 handkerchiefs. We rode a good way down the river, 
 and the farther we went the fewer the Httle pools of 
 water became : at last there was no water to be seen, 
 the sand had gradually absorbed it ; and we should 
 have to dig four or five feet in order to get water here, 
 so it would be of very little use to go down into the 
 jungle by this route. H. and I amused ourselves 
 by setting fire to the jungle, in hopes of starting 
 some animal, but we saw nothing and so turned our 
 mules' heads towards home. It is interesting in 
 this country to see, while jungle is burning ; this it 
 is always doing during the dry weather — the number 
 of birds — insect-catchers — hovering over the flames 
 and catching any flies, beetles, or butterflies, that 
 happen to be driven out of the grass and bushes by 
 the smoke and heat. 
 
 ya7L 28. — To-day we started at 8.30 for Adiaboo. 
 We went up the bed of the Zareena for a short way 
 and then turned off sharp to the right ; this will be 
 better understood by my readers when I say that, 
 after turning to the right, we began travelling very 
 nearly due west. The road was merely a jungle 
 path, and the bushes were in some places very thick, 
 which scratched our knees as we pushed through 
 them. Sometimes we rode up the dry bed of a 
 watercourse, at other times we struck right into the 
 thorny forest of mimosa bushes. At last we came to
 
 SFOR T IjV ABYSSINIA. 1 1 1 
 
 a more civilised part of the country, and halted in 
 the bed of a small river called Maitumloo, where 
 at some deep pools the cattle were being watered by 
 the boys of the village, who were minding them. 
 Here we stopped for about half an hour, watering our 
 mules and resting ourselves ; we then made for the 
 village of Zadawalka. We did not actually go straight 
 up to the village, but camped in the usual camping- 
 place for travellers who go by this route, that is to 
 say, close to the water, of which there was a large 
 pool here. We pitched our tent on a little ledge just 
 over the pool, where there was barely room for the 
 tent and the camp fire. We had got in early this 
 afternoon, having come along at a pretty good pace ; 
 Petros and Hadji Mahomet had happened to lose 
 their way in the jungle, and did not come at all that 
 evening. 
 
 Our coolies that we had brought from Koudoo- 
 fellassie, had, as is usual with most blacks when 
 they travel, brought very little food with them, for 
 when natives go a journey it is usually a succession 
 of forced marches, which they manage to do with 
 wonderfully little nourishment. They were all seated 
 at the pool, having washed off the dust of the jour- 
 ney, talking and chattering, when there appeared in 
 sight some villagers,r who Brou, the interpreter, told 
 me were returninu" from a funeral feast. Of course
 
 112 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 the coolies understood very well the state of affairs. 
 The natives at feasts in this country not only eat as 
 much as they can, but also contrive to take away 
 with them what they cannot manage to cram down 
 their throats ; so here was a prospect of a good meal 
 for our coolies. A rush was made at a batch of 
 small boys and men who were returning, their clothes 
 were almost torn off their backs, and the bread and 
 "tef" which they had concealed about their persons 
 were seized and devoured by our hungry men. This 
 was the first batch of visitors, and our men were in 
 anticipation of more coming. At last some more 
 appeared, this time bearing a large earthenware jar, 
 which was thought to contain beer, but, alas ! it 
 was empty. There were other natives that our 
 men thought had some bread with them, and they 
 accordingly hustled them, but found none. During 
 the struggle, a coolie was pushed backwards into 
 the muddy pool, and was rather astonished to find 
 himself seated in the water, much to the amuse- 
 ment of ourselves and all the servants but himself: 
 he sneaked back and sat down by the fire to dry 
 the few rags he had on him as best he could. Three 
 or four more villagers came by, among them two 
 young Abyssinians, who said, " You have been robbing 
 our people — you will see what we will do to you 
 to-morrow !" I think they were a little the worse
 
 SFOR T nV ABYSSINIA. 1 1 3 
 
 for the " tej " and beer they had been drinking, as 
 they boasted and were very impudent. At last they 
 got a little too "cheeky," saying, "You are a Rass " 
 (which means a lord, in Abyssinia), " and ought to 
 know better than let your servants do this." This 
 rather annoyed me, so I jumped across the stream, 
 snatched one of the sticks out of their hands, and gave 
 them two or three cuts across the back, as hard as I 
 could, and told the interpreter to tell them that was 
 the way a Rass was accustomed to treat people 
 who were impudent ; so they went away rather 
 frightened, amid the jeers of the servants and coolies. 
 My readers may think this was rather a summary 
 proceeding, especially as our servants had been 
 robbing the people of their bread ; but it is a thing 
 always taken for granted, as people are supposed 
 to be hungry when they are travelling, and those 
 that were robbed took it as a very good joke, 
 and laughed and chaffed, especially when they were 
 searched and found to have no victuals of any 
 description concealed on their persons. My grey 
 mule, which K. gave me at Gindar, had a sore back, 
 and I was afraid he would only just be able to take 
 me into Adiaboo, where I should have to give him u[) 
 and get another.
 
 114 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 A LONG MARCH — ^A NATIVE GARDEN— COOLIES AND THE WAY TO 
 TREAT THEM — MARKETS — A BATTLE-FIELD — COOL SHADE — "THE 
 FIRST POST " — SHIELDS AND SPEARS — JOHN — POTATOES— SILVER- 
 SMITHS — A NEW FRIEND — COOLIE SQUABBLES — AN APPEAL — 
 DONKEY BUYING — SHOE-MAKING — A BIRD'S-EYE VIEW OF OUR 
 ROUTE — SOURCES OF THE TACKAZZEE — MARRIAGE FESTIVITIES — 
 I TURN SURGEON — A MUSICAL PARTY — MY REPUTATION AS A 
 DOCTOR. 
 
 Jan. 29. — To-day we made a very long march, in 
 fact, the lonp-est we had made since we had been in 
 the country. We started at 7 o'clock in the morning, 
 leaving the village of Zadawalka on our right, and 
 we struck across the table-land in front of us, Avhich 
 was intersected by a large ravine. The scenery on 
 the table-land was lovely, and the streams became 
 more frequent. Towards the middle of the day we 
 reached a very extensive plain ; in the distance might 
 be seen the high-peaked hill which marks Adiaboo. 
 It is just below this, and in the shade of a large tree, 
 that the market of Adiaboo is held every Saturday. 
 The principal village on the plain was one called 
 Sememmar. We got off our mules and went to forage
 
 SFOIi T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 1 5 
 
 among the houses for some honey ; and the natives 
 sold us a large gumbo, or jar, full of honey, for a 
 dollar. They were very civil, but, as usual, our 
 servants amused themselves by purloining as many 
 little things and eatables as they could lay their 
 hands on. We agreed to camp by a stream which 
 was a little way on, and where the table-land ended, 
 called Maihumloo. The descent down into the 
 little valley, or ravine, was very pretty, and when 
 we got down to the bottom the country was almost 
 like a pleasure-ground, rills of trickling water ran 
 across our path, and various shrubs bearing sweet- 
 smelling flowers grew in every direction ; it only 
 wanted neat gravel walks to make it the most perfect 
 of gardens. We fixed our camp by the side of the 
 stream. Any future traveller would know the spot 
 very well, as a white-faced rock rises up from the 
 stream, with bushes growing over it. 
 
 An old lady in the village had asked me if I 
 should like to buy some Dargousa spirit ; I told 
 her if she liked to bring it down to our camp that I 
 would purchase it. Accordingly she followed us 
 down and produced two bottles of this native spirit, 
 which I thought would be a good thing to give to our 
 coolies, as they had had an exceedingly long march 
 and were completely done up, and when we halted 
 they most of them lay down unable to move. One
 
 1 1 6 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 of them was utterly exhausted, and said he was dying. 
 I imagined it would be a good idea to serve them 
 all with honey, of which they are very fond, and 
 accordingly I made them come forward, and gave 
 them each a large handful of honey. Directly the 
 dying coolie heard that this honey was being given he 
 appeared to get wonderfully better, and jumped up 
 and came for his share. He had given a good deal 
 of trouble on the march and always lagged behind, 
 calling on the other coolies to carry his load ; so I 
 said he was not to have any, and I did not give him 
 any. These natives have to be treated like children 
 in every respect. I had arrived at the place where 
 I fixed the camp a little before H., and, hearing 
 some wild geese cackling up the stream, I took my 
 gun and went to try to bag one of them for dinner. 
 I fired at them and missed. Not many seconds after 
 firing H. appeared from behind some bushes, and 
 we discovered we had both 'been stalking the same 
 geese. It is very lucky I did not pepper him. He 
 seemed a little annoyed ; but this sort of thing very 
 often occurs when two fellows are shooting together 
 in a wild country. I went out by myself afterwards 
 to try and get some partridges, as I heard a few 
 calling to each other near camp. I managed to kill a 
 brace, and they proved very acceptable food after our 
 long and tedious march.
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 1 7 
 
 Half-way on our journey here we came to the 
 market-place of Sememmar ; the market is held in a 
 sort of hollow dell by the side of the path that we 
 travelled along. It was a very picturesque sight 
 looking down on the market, the people seated round 
 the sides of a hill like an amphitheatre. Of course 
 we got down to inspect the wares offered for sale : 
 beads, needles, buttons, were among the articles, as 
 well as antimony for blacking the eyebrows and eye- 
 lashes of Abyssinian ladies. There was also a good 
 deal of cotton and grain for sale. The only thing I 
 purchased was a native sword, which cost a dollar, 
 and which I handed over to Goubasee, my gun-bearer, 
 to carry for me. This sword was made, like some of 
 the Indian tulwars, of very soft iron, but sharpened 
 like a razor. Its shape was well adapted for cutting, 
 slightly curved, and the back of the broad blade was 
 heavy and thick. The worst part of an Abyssinian 
 sword is its handle, which is made of wood, with no 
 guard whatsoever. Generally, when a native goes into 
 battle, he ties the handle of his sword round his wrist 
 with a piece of rag or handkerchief There is also 
 another description of sword which they carry. This 
 is a much lighter one, and very much curved, even 
 more so than a Turkish scimitar. I had no oppor- 
 tunity of seeing a native use the sword. What they 
 seemed to excel in most was throwing the spear.
 
 1 1 8 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 Jan. 30. — This morning we did not start till much 
 later, as the whole of the party were rather knocked 
 up by the march of the day before. The country was 
 very lovely that we travelled through. The path rose 
 until we found ourselves on a very extensive plain : as 
 we travelled over it, one of my gun-bearers pointed 
 out a place, south of the route we pursued, where the 
 king of Abyssinia had had a great battle with the 
 Gallas, on which occasion three hundred of the Galla 
 horsemen rode over a sheer precipice, nearly every one 
 of them being killed. I trotted on across the plain 
 towards Adiaboo, and the large peaked hill appeared 
 nearer and nearer. I forgot to say that, before we 
 started this morning, I managed to bag one of the wild 
 geese which we had seen, and stalked unsuccessfully, 
 the night before. These birds are most excellent 
 eating, and they and the partridges are nearly the best 
 food in the shape of game that is found in Abyssinia, 
 but the guinea-fowl are nearly always tough. 
 
 It was market-day at Adiaboo, a much larger affair 
 than at Scmemmar the day before, and a considerable 
 gathering of people were here, all chattering and 
 making a great noise, it being the busiest time. I 
 asked some of the bystanders where K. was, and 
 where our camp was pitched. They pointed a little 
 farther on, and I soon saw K.'s tent and a " das " built 
 close by. A das is a sort of bower made of boughs
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 1 1 9 
 
 which Abyssinian servants in a very short time put 
 up. It is made of four tall forked poles ; over these 
 are laid boughs which are again interlaced with other 
 boughs. It makes a delightfully cool shade for the 
 middle of the day, and we always used to live in 
 one when we were in camp during the day, but of 
 course we slept in our tent at night. A " das " was 
 very necessary here, as there was no shade to be found 
 for some distance round. K. was very pleased to see 
 us. He had come a shorter route, and his party had 
 almost lost their way and been very hard pressed for 
 water. He said he had been very ill on the journey, 
 and scarcely able to ride his mule. The black sheep 
 that, my readers will remember, we had made a pet 
 of was completely worn out, and was carried, the 
 greater part of the journey, by one of the servants. 
 
 K. had told me that Rass Barea, the chief of 
 Tigre, had written to the chief of Adiaboo to say that 
 hunters were to be placed at our disposal, and that 
 men were to accompany us down into the country 
 where elephants and other large game were to be 
 found. Adik, the chief of Adiaboo, was in camp ready 
 to pay his comj^liments and to ask us what we wanted. 
 He and his followers all sat on the ground a short 
 way off, with their shamas thrown across their shoulders 
 and covering their mouths ; this is always considered, 
 in Abyssinia, a most dignified position. Here wc found
 
 1 20 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 letters from home waiting for us, which of course we 
 were very pleased to get. Any scrap of news from 
 his own country and friends, to a traveller quite out 
 of the march of civilisation, is a great luxury. H. 
 had not come in when I arrived, as I had gone on 
 rather fast in front of him : there were also letters for 
 him, so I took them and walRed a little way out of the 
 camp to meet him with them, and never saw any- 
 body so delighted ; in fact, we were both in the best 
 of spirits. After I had read the letters, I asked K. 
 to come round the market of Adiaboo with me to see 
 the people, and also to look if there was anything 
 worth buying. 
 
 The large tree, mentioned before, was the centre of 
 attraction, and those who brought horses with them 
 had them tied up under the shade of the tree. The 
 tree was hung all round with shields, some for sale 
 and others belonging to the owners of the horses ; as 
 every Abyssinian, whenever he goes even the shortest 
 way from home, always takes with him his shield and 
 his spear — just in the same way as an Irishman carries 
 his stick. I bought two shields for five dollars ; one I 
 gave to Goubasee, my gun-bearer, and the other to 
 Guyndem, my second gun-bearer : they both seemed 
 mightily pleased and proud, and said they would take 
 the greatest care of them. The shields were made of 
 the skin of a species of large deer ; they were thick
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 2 1 
 
 and tough. The old merchant from whom I bought 
 them was a very communicative person ; he had a 
 large silver ring on his finger which I admired ; he 
 very kindly took it off, and said he would give it to 
 me. I, of course, said no ; but, as he still pressed, I 
 said, well, I would pay him a little more for the shields 
 — which arrangement he seemed to agree to. The rest 
 of the day we spent in reading our letters and dis- 
 cussing the contents of all of them, and also in writing 
 others in return, as there would be no chance of 
 sending messengers to the post after we left Adiaboo. 
 A man named John^ — at least that was the name he 
 went by — had come into our camp from Adowa ; he 
 was said to be the son of an Englishman who had been 
 in the country some time before. He stood about six 
 feet two, and Avould have been rather good-looking 
 but that he was marked with small-pox. He brought 
 a very welcome present to us, and that was some pota- 
 toes. These vegetables are only grown near Adowa, 
 as it is only within a few years that they have been 
 introduced into the country, to which they were 
 brought by a Frenchman, whose name, we hope, will 
 be as immortal as that of Sir Walter Raleigh. The 
 potatoes were very small, in fact, wretched-looking 
 things, but were excellent eating ; and we were very 
 glad to get them, as we had been excessively hard up 
 for vegetables ; in fact, we had had scarcely any since
 
 1 2 2 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 leaving Gindar. John said he would go down into 
 the jungle with us. The only words of English he 
 knew were, " How do you do ?" and " Good morning," 
 which he uttered whenever one addressed him. His 
 trade was that of a silversmith, in Adowa, which I am 
 told is a very lucrative one, as dollars are given to 
 make into silver ornaments, such as the decorations 
 of a shield, etc., and then as the dollars, which are 
 already of rather base metal, are mixed with a good 
 amount of tin, by the time the ornaments are made 
 there is not much original metal left in them. Mans- 
 field Parkyns, in his very entertaining book on Abys- 
 sinia, gives an account of the silversmiths at Adowa. 
 One of the young chiefs at Adiaboo, a relation of Adik 
 the old chief, also said he would go down into the 
 jungle with us and help us to hunt. This young man 
 was about eighteen or nineteen, and was accompanied 
 by a sort of bear-leader, a much older Abyssinian, 
 who, in fact, had been his tutor all his life — a man 
 named Barrakee. This old fellow was chief of a small 
 village on the frontiers of Abyssinia, and close to 
 the Baria tribe. Some part of the Baria country 
 is supposed to belong to Abyssinia ; and Barrakee 
 told us that he actually received tribute of wild 
 honey and other small things from the Baria. This 
 man played a very important part during the rest of 
 our journey ; and, when the young chief left us while
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 2 3 
 
 we were on the Tackazzee, he chose to stay behind 
 to help in the hunting and to guide us through this 
 part of the country, which he knew very well. 
 
 Jan. 3 1.' — To-day we killed a young cow in camp, 
 and also paid our coolies who had come from Koudoo- 
 fellassie. The coolies, after they had been paid, could 
 not agree upon the division of some extra money 
 that had been given them — in fact, the man who gave 
 the most trouble about it was my old friend who had 
 shammed ill while travelling up to our last camp. 
 They all came to me to settle the dispute ; and, after 
 one party had arranged themselves on one side, and 
 the other party on the other — -the latter consisting of 
 only one — I heard the cause of dispute. It was very 
 clear that the coolie who had shammed ill wanted to 
 get the best of his friends ; so, as most of the rest were 
 against him, I said, " Two heads arc better than one 
 — and you must give up your claim." The men in 
 whose favour the decision had been given went away 
 shouting, laughing, and dancing about ; the beaten 
 party retired rather crestfallen. I asked if any of 
 them would volunteer to come down into the jungle 
 with us. There was one young fellow among them 
 who had always been first on the march, and when in 
 camp always singing and laughing. I particularly 
 wanted to get him as a servant ; but he said he had 
 a wife and family and could not manage to come.
 
 1 24 SFOR T nV ABYSSINIA. 
 
 After a deal of persuasion I got one of them to stay, 
 a man named Philookus. I think most of them 
 thought that they had had enough of marching, and, 
 if the marches in future were to be anything like the 
 two former ones, they were quite right in turning back. 
 
 It is a great mistake, during travelling in rough 
 countries, to force your marches ; it not only tires 
 yourself and harasses your coolies, but also wears out 
 your beasts of burden, a most important considera- 
 tion. The Italian proverb, Che va piano va sano, is 
 daily exemplified when you are away from civilisation 
 and railways. The best method is to start early in 
 the morning, make a short march, and then rest 
 during the heat of the day. After everybody and all 
 the beasts are well rested start again, and get into 
 camp in good time before the sun goes down, so as to 
 get everything comfortable and snug for the night. 
 By the bye, one is very much struck, on first arriving 
 in the East, by the astonishment with which the 
 natives receive an Englishman's protestations that he 
 is in a hurry — that he must go on at once. I believe 
 Arabs have a saying, in the spirit of which they cer- 
 tainly act, that " haste is devilish." 
 
 A number of little sand-grouse, early in the morning, 
 had come circling round the tent and settling on some 
 ploughed ground close to us ; I went out and killed a 
 brace and a half These little birds are very good
 
 SPORl IN ABYSSINIA. 125 
 
 eating, one part of their flesh being white and 
 the other brown. Wc agreed to-day that here at 
 Adiaboo we should buy donkc}'S to carry our things 
 down to the Tackazzee, so we told the chief to get 
 us as many as he could. He said that to-morrow 
 he would tell the people round to bring in what 
 donkeys they had for sale. I went out in the evening 
 into the marshy ground which lay below our camp, to 
 try to get some snipe ; I only saw one, but he was too 
 far off for a shot. We had a very good dinner to- 
 night, for we had killed fresh meat, which avc were 
 very glad to get, as the two clays that we had been 
 travelling we had had very little with us, although 
 K. had made every preparation for us, and boiled 
 down some excellent jell}% which he had corked up 
 in a few empty gin-bottles and carefully placed in 
 H.'s tin-case among his clothes ; but, whether it 
 was the heat or the shaking that the tin-case got on 
 the journey I do not know : when we opened it, in 
 order to take some jelly for soup, we found that the 
 corks had flown out of the bottles, and a sort of 
 mayonnaise had been made of H.'s socks, boots, and 
 trousers. Such are the pleasures of rough travelling ! 
 Feb. I. — To-day we began buying donkeys, and a 
 more disagreeable task I had never had to do ; such 
 haggling and bargaining as had to be undergone was 
 enough to drive one mad. They brought up the
 
 1 2 6 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 donkeys sometimes singly and sometimes in pairs ; 
 we had on an average to pay six dollars a-piece for 
 them, which was a great deal too much. This in- 
 cluded the pads on which the package was strapped, 
 and also the " mechanias," or leather thongs which 
 strap the baggage on. The only thing to be assured of 
 in buying donkeys is that they are not suffering from 
 recent sores on their backs ; and a very good way of 
 testing their strength is to put both hands in the 
 small of their back and to press down with all your 
 weight : a good donkey's back will yield very little, 
 but a bad one cannot bear it at all. Cassa, the man 
 who had charge of our transport arrangements, helped 
 me greatly in buying the donkeys. The very minute 
 I bought one and paid for it I marked it by clipping 
 a square patch on its rump with a pair of nail scissors : 
 this was quite enough for all present purposes. The 
 great difficulty was to make the natives bring the 
 pads and straps, as without them of course the 
 donkeys were perfectly useless. We here employed 
 some servants in making sandals for themselves out 
 of cow-skin that I had bought at Deevaroua ; in fact, 
 most of them asked me to allow them to make some, 
 as the paths through the jungle are very thorny and 
 stony, and not like travelling through the cultivated 
 fields of Tigre. Plowden Gubrihote, H.'s gun-bearer, 
 was shoe — or rather sandal — maker to the rest ; he had
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 2 7 
 
 been, when a little boy, servant to Consul Plowden, who 
 was murdered in South Abyssinia, and he was a 
 capital servant, but rather cowardly. 
 
 In the evening Barrakee, the young chiefs tutor, 
 proposed that we should go up to the top of a 
 high-peaked hill close by, and see the country we 
 were approaching. We rode up some distance, and at 
 last had to get off our mules as the way became very 
 steep. Certainly a more glorious view I never saw. 
 To the north-west we could see the plains through 
 which the Mareb runs, and to the south-west were the 
 mountains among whose gorges that splendid river 
 the Tackazzee flows ; beyond the Tackazzee to the 
 west, in fact in front of us, might be seen two 
 mountains, one of which is of a very peculiar shape 
 — these mark the province of Walkait. On the 
 top of one of these mountains is a fort or stronghold 
 which cannot be reached except by ropes — no human 
 being can climb up to it. Due south of where we 
 were standing lay crowded together that mass of 
 mountains called the Siemien range, the tops of 
 which, the natives informed us, were covered with 
 snow the whole year round. This I cannot vouch for, 
 as I certainly did not see any at that time ; and I 
 almost think, if there had been snow, it would have 
 caught the rays of the setting sun, and it could have 
 been seen quite distinctly. The Tackazzee rises in
 
 128 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 the Siemien from springs ; at least, this I think and 
 believe is the case, on the authority of an old servant 
 we had with us, called Hadji Mahomet, who came 
 from that part of the world. As we looked below us 
 we could see the inmates of some huts that were 
 clustered round the mountain engaged in celebrating 
 a marriage. All the company were assembled in a 
 large " das," or leafy bower, drinking and dancing, 
 and every now and then a shot would be fired off in 
 the air in celebration of the auspicious event. As I 
 looked towards the distant view which lay before us I 
 little thought that on my return journey I should be 
 as anxious to get home as I w^as then to explore those 
 regions. We waited till the sun set behind the moun- 
 tains of Walkait, and then came down the hill and 
 made for camp. 
 
 H, and I very much wished, before leaving the 
 country, to try and get some black leopard skin, and 
 some of the silver-mounted shields which are made at 
 Adowa, and which are carried by the great chiefs 
 of the country. K. said that if we wrote out an 
 order and sent it to Adowa it would be attended to. 
 I wrote out a couple of orders, one for the black 
 leopard skins and the other for the shields, and we 
 both signed them and got John to transcribe them 
 into Amharic. While I was writing them he re- 
 marked that English writing was very quick and very
 
 SPOR T AV ABYSSINIA. 1 29 
 
 dififereiit from writing Amharic, in which every letter 
 has to be formed separately, in the same way as when 
 we "print" with a pen in English. 
 
 Whenever we were in camp for two or three days in 
 one place it was invariably the custom of the natives 
 to bring their sick to be healed by the white men, or 
 else to beg for medicines. They even on one occasion 
 brought a cripple, carried in a sort of frame : I 
 suppose they expected me to perform a miracle. On 
 the present occasion a man came into camp with 
 a large sore, about the size of the palm of one's 
 hand, on his shin ; he had evidently had it for some 
 time, and the wound was covered with cow-dung, for 
 what reason I do not know. I told him to go away 
 and wash his leg and come back to me with it clean. 
 I then consulted with Brou what was best to be done 
 in the case. I had no caustic with me, so I deter- 
 mined to cauterize it with boiling grease. We had 
 saved some fat from the cow we had killed ; I took a 
 portion of this, put it into a pan on the fire to boil, and 
 I informed the man what I was going to do, and that 
 it would hurt him a great deal, but that if he liked to 
 let it be done he might. He said, "Do what you like ; 
 I do not care." The grease was very soon melted 
 and bubbling ; I took it off the fire and was going to 
 apply it, when the servants, who were looking on with 
 interest, thought it was too hot, and that I should 
 
 K
 
 1 30 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 hurt the man too much, so I let it get cold a little 
 and poured it on to his leg. He did not seem to feel 
 it, nor did he wince at all ; so I said that would not do, 
 and that next time I should give it him boiling hot. 
 I put the pan on the fire again, and when next I 
 poured the grease on, it fizzed and crackled in the 
 same way that bacon does ; but the most curious 
 part of the operation was that the man, who a person 
 would have supposed would have almost fainted 
 with pain, only winced, much in the same way as 
 people may be seen to do w^hen they have had a 
 tooth drawn. 
 
 It is difficult to explain this ; but it is the case, 
 that all the black races will endure many surgical 
 operations of the roughest sort, but directly strong 
 medicine is given them it seems to kill them at once. 
 I made the man pour a little milk over the w^ound, 
 gave him five rhubarb pills to take, and told him to 
 go and lie down in the shade. I did not hear after- 
 wards that he had died, so I think he must have re- 
 covered. I may as well tell the reader that I had a 
 most excellent medicine-chest with m.e, and was very 
 well provided with almost everything that was neces- 
 sary. These are the different descriptions of drugs 
 the chest contained : — A good quantity of quinine in 
 two-grain pills, rhubarb pills, chlorodyne, a sedative 
 solution of opium for diarrhoea, Warburg's fever tine-
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 1 3 1 
 
 ture, spermaceti ointment, lint bandages, scissors, 
 needles and silk for sewing up cuts, &c. But, not- 
 withstanding all this provision of remedies I managed 
 to get most terribly ill ; indeed one might have a whole 
 chemist's shop in one's possession, but, without proper 
 food and comforts, all would be of little use. 
 
 Barrakee, who I believe was somewhat of a mu- 
 sician, was very anxious to hear me play on the 
 banjo I had with me, so I got it and began playing : 
 he and the young chief listened for some time, and 
 then remarked that it was very like Shangalla music. 
 The Shangalla, or Baria, are the nearest tribe of 
 negroes to Abyssinia. Barrakee then sent for a sort 
 of Abyssinian guitar, on which he commenced making 
 a monotonous noise, and thus ended this rather 
 eventful day. 
 
 Feb. 2. — All to-day I was engaged in quarrelling 
 over the prices of different donkeys which were brought 
 in. In the morning H. successfully stalked a flock of 
 pigeons that had settled on the ploughed ground close 
 by, and managed to bag five of them with two barrels. 
 All game is very acceptable, as it always makes an 
 addition and variation to what provisions are in 
 hand. We calculated that we should have to bu)^ 
 twenty donkeys ; we had very nearly succeeded in 
 getting that number, but two more were wanted to 
 complete the set, and these could not be got either
 
 1 3 2 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 for love or money. At last a priest appeared who 
 was with great difficulty persuaded to lend us his two 
 donkeys until we could manage to buy from the 
 neighbouring villages two for ourselves. 
 
 This afternoon I thought I would show the young 
 chief the use of the sword which I had bought in the 
 market at Semmemar, and so, asking him to let me 
 look at his own, I showed him the common one I had 
 purchased, at which he seemed rather to sneer. We 
 had got the best part of a goat in camp, and I hung 
 up the hind quarters, with part of the back attached, 
 on to a rope stretched between the two " dasses " 
 which had been built for us. The sword was very 
 sharp, and I managed to cut this piece of the carcass 
 right in half. I then asked him if he would do the 
 same, but he said he could not. I rather suspect he 
 would not, as he was very proud of his sword, and 
 probably thought that cutting a goat in half would 
 not be a deed worthy of such a weapon. I then cut 
 off another piece for his edification, and also to try to 
 induce him to show off, which, however, he refused to 
 do, and eventually retired to his followers and Bar- 
 rakee, no doubt to talk over what the Feringee had 
 done, and wonder why he had done it, and what was 
 the use of the feat. 
 
 He came to me again in the evening — this was 
 another instance of native imagination of the power
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 1 33 
 
 of the white men to heal and cure — and informed me, 
 in a mysterious tone, that his mother had been mad 
 for some years, and he wanted some medicine to 
 cure her. I with great difficulty explained to him, 
 through the interpreter, that it was impossible for us 
 to cure madness, and that in our country we had 
 asylums, or houses for mad people, set apart. I said 
 that anything I could do to alleviate suffering I 
 should be most happy to attempt. He seemed a 
 nice young fellow, for in the evening he brought us 
 some thick cakes made of maize, which he said his 
 mother had sent us. These were very good and 
 excellent eating, as we had been living on " damper " 
 and Peek and Frean's biscuits, which are very dry.
 
 1 34 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 DONKEY ROBBERIES — REPRISALS — A FRIEND IN NEED — POSTMEN — 
 APOLOGIES — A THIEF SURPRISED — IN SEARCH OF A MILLER — THE 
 WAY TO GET WATER — A SWIM — ARRIVAL OF MY RIFLE — CUSTOM- 
 HOUSE — ELEPHANT-HUNTING — HINTS ON COSTUME — FIRESIDE 
 TALES — HOW TO PRODUCE FIRE — AN EPICURE — HARTEBEEST AND 
 GIRAFFES — JUNGLE FIRES. 
 
 Feb. 3. — I find I began my rough journal to-day 
 with these words : " At last we leave this beastly 
 place, where all has been quarrelling and bargaining." 
 I certainly was heartily sick of it, and glad to get 
 away, and so I think were most of us. To make 
 matters worse, before we started, the servants came 
 and told us that four of our donkeys were missing, 
 two that the priest had lent us and two that we had 
 bought. At this we were furious. H. and I both 
 agreed that we would not stand this sort of nonsense, 
 and we went to K. and told him that we thought it 
 was disgraceful conduct on the part of the chief, and 
 vowed vengeance on the old sinner. K. tried to 
 pacify us, and said the donkeys would turn up in 
 time.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 1 35 
 
 Certainly, to say the least of it, it was very annoy- 
 ing, especially on the point of departure. We called 
 our servants together and went up to the ballaga's 
 house where the donkeys had been put for the night. 
 The young chief evidently thought we had hostile 
 intentions, as his followers might be seen running in 
 front of him taking the sheaths off the points of their 
 long spears. When we got to the house we took up 
 our position just outside the low wall which sur- 
 rounded it. 
 
 The young chief was close to a house not many 
 yards off. I sent word to say that, if the donkeys 
 were not immediately forthcoming, we should burn 
 down the man's house and take what goods and 
 chattels he had there. I went in and took a large 
 jar of honey and an enormous pumpkin as a sort of 
 security till the donkeys came. At length the two 
 donkeys we had bought turned up. We then de- 
 manded the other two which the priest had lent us. 
 The Abyssinians said, " They are not paid for ;" to 
 which we replied that he would not sell them to us, 
 but that he promised to lend them, and that, if they 
 would not give them up, we should do what we had 
 threatened. 
 
 Before going on I may say that wc had letters 
 to send to the post, and it was important they 
 should start that day, so as to catch the steamer
 
 1 3 6 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 which runs every three weeks. As we were now at 
 loggerheads with the chief, it would have been difficult 
 to get him to give us a messenger for so long a 
 journey ; but Brou helped me out of this difficulty. 
 He had a friend among some Mahomedans who lived 
 not far off, and he told me that if I gave him the 
 letters they would be given to the head-man of the 
 Mahomedan village, and that he would insure their 
 being sent to the coast. Brou made all the arrange- 
 ments, and I did not, as usual, see the messenger 
 myself and make him swear that he would carry the 
 letters safely. It eventually transpired that they 
 reached their destination all right ; and in fact we 
 found, all through our journey, that the Mahomedans 
 were a great deal easier to deal with in business, 
 bargaining, and arrangements, than the Abyssinians. 
 
 I went down into our camp to get the letters and 
 send them off by Brou, and when I came back I 
 found K. and H. were rather bored with sitting 
 there and waiting. K. had been inclined to take the 
 Abyssinians' part ; he said it was one of the usual 
 events of travelling in such a country, and we should 
 not make a great fuss ; this annoyed us still more. 
 At last the donkeys were brought and all was 
 made right. I returned the jar of honey that I had 
 taken from the house, and I was going to return 
 the pumpkin, but K. said, " I think we had better
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 3 7 
 
 keep this," a remark that amused us very much, as 
 he had previously been all for the Abyssinians, and 
 now he was quite ready to take the native's pumpkin. 
 These pumpkins make a very good dish, boiled in 
 water with a little sugar. It is wonderful on occasions 
 of this sort how " 'cute " one gets at foraging for food. 
 To-day was the only time, during our whole journey, 
 that I saw a snake. I just caught a glimpse of the 
 reptile as he wriggled away among some corn sheaves; 
 he was yellow, and almost of the colour of the corn. 
 
 In consequence of the "row" about the donkeys, we 
 could not start until next day. The old chief, Adik, 
 came to say good-bye to us. He had never, all through 
 the time of our stay at Adiaboo, been half so civil as 
 the younger native, and the servants felt unanimously 
 that it was owing to him that the donkeys had been 
 taken ; so I intimated that I would not say good-bye 
 or take any notice of him unless he apologised for all 
 the trouble he had given us. I had put it very strongly 
 to his relative, the young man, and told him, in so 
 many words, I did not think he had behaved as an 
 Abyssinian chief ought to behave to Englishmen, 
 when they came to pay a visit to his country. He said 
 at first that he would not apologise, but at length, 
 towards the evening, he came up and said he was 
 very sorry for what had happened, and he hoped 
 we should have a pleasant journey and lots of sport.
 
 138 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 Feb. 4. — This morning we really did make a 
 start, although we had great difficulty in getting 
 away, as we had fresh servants to look after the 
 donkeys, the new men did not know the nature 
 of the packages, and every donkey-load had to be 
 made out separately by Cassa. We did not go very 
 far this march, but camped near a little village called 
 Adikai. The people were very civil, and directly 
 the young chief, who was with us, told them to put up 
 a " das," they did so at once. The only little event 
 which rather disturbed the harmony of the scene was 
 one of the natives attempting to snatch away one of 
 our mechanias. I happened to see this, and, running 
 up to him, gave him a push that sent him clean head 
 over heels, and I told him to let our things alone ; 
 the people who were looking on all said that it 
 served him perfectly right. 
 
 There was a wedding going on at this village — in 
 fact, I believe this was the time of year during which 
 most of the weddings in Ab}'ssinia take place — and 
 the arkees, or groomsmen, who during the week the 
 wedding is held go about the villages stealing what they 
 can lay hands on in order to give to the bridegroom, 
 came and danced before us. It was the same sort of 
 dance that our coolies had entertained us with on the 
 Mareb : one stepped forward and went through 
 various contortions, and then, at one part of the
 
 SPOILT AA' ABYSSINIA. 1 39 
 
 dance, they all sat down and clapped their hands, 
 making a hissing noise. The young chief said if we 
 would give them a dollar they would be very pleased ; 
 so we presented them with one, and they went aw-ay 
 delighted. We had bought a quantity of corn at 
 Adiaboo for food for our servants in the jungle, but 
 we could not manage to get it ground at Adiaboo ; 
 the young chief, however, said we should be able to do 
 so in the villages as we went on. He came to us in 
 the middle of the day and said, " I cannot make the 
 ballagas grind your corn ; you must go through the 
 villages and make them give you an equal weight of 
 flour in exchange for your corn." The reason why 
 he could not make the ballagas of the nearest village 
 grind the corn was that the village belonged to the 
 Monastery of Debra Bizen, which my readers will 
 remember was situated on a high mountain that 
 overlooked the little valley of Gindar. The priest 
 of the village said that the young chief had no power 
 over these people, who paid tribute to the monastery. 
 We went into the village and said that we must have 
 some flour, and that we had brought corn to exchange 
 for it. We sent our servants round to the different 
 houses to fetch the flour, while a priest, a nice-looking 
 old fellow in a green turban, looked on to see that 
 we did not take more than was right. From one of 
 the little hamlets, to which I went to look for some
 
 I40 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 flour, all the inhabitants ran away, and clustered on a 
 hill close by, looking at Brou and myself, who had 
 walked up to the houses. We ascertained the folks 
 had just been at their meals, and Brou, who declared 
 that he had eaten no breakfast that morning, sat down 
 and demolished the remaining victuals which he found 
 in the hut. We took what flour we wanted and left 
 corn in exchange. One of the servants who accom- 
 panied me to carry the corn, wanted as usual to steal 
 something, but I said I would not allow that, and he 
 must leave the things just as he found them. 
 
 As we came back with the flour that we had ex- 
 changed for corn we met the arkees, and Brou said to 
 them, " Do not go up to those houses and steal the 
 things while the people are away, and then say that 
 we did it !" This was quite right, as these gentlemen 
 were hanging about, and they would most likely have 
 made a clean sweep of everything they had found, and 
 then have said that the Feringee had taken them. 
 Let me recommend to travellers, when camping near 
 a native village, to watch for a long string of women, 
 who generally bring up the water from the nearest 
 stream. Usually your servants have plenty to do 
 without going to fetch water : the best way is to take 
 the water from the women, empty it into your own 
 vessels, and let them go back and get more for 
 themselves. This we did with great success at
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 141 
 
 Adikai, and none of our men had to go and draw 
 any water at all. Some trifling present soon put tlie 
 women in the best of tempers, but I really do not 
 think they minded the water being taken from them 
 only they were terribly afraid lest their jars should 
 be broken. Most of them, when robbed, began 
 laughing and chaffing our servants. 
 
 The next day we went on to the village of Azho, 
 and camped in the dry bed of a stream, in a field 
 where the Dargousa corn had just been cut. Our 
 camp was below a high plateau on which this large 
 village was built. It is the frontier village, and after 
 this you meet no more habitations till you come to 
 the province of Walkait, which would be from this 
 point about eight days' travelling on a mule. I had 
 gone on in front to fix the camp, and found some of 
 our donkeys, which we had sent on early in the morn- 
 ing, waiting for us there; by-and-by the whole caravan 
 came up, after which we enjoyed a very pleasant 
 swim in a little pool in the river. This is a luxury 
 which anybody travelling in a hot country will 
 thoroughly appreciate, as it is impossible to take a 
 bath with you while travelling in this sort of way ; and 
 we had to do most of our washing in a chillumchee.* 
 The young chief and some of his followers came and 
 begged some powder and bullets : we gave them some 
 
 * Chillumchee is an Iiulian word for a flat-bottonicd tin basin.
 
 142 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 bullets but very little powder ; as it is always 
 dangerous to give natives powder when they are 
 likely to be with you, because they might turn your 
 enemies, and it would be adding insult to injury 
 to be shot with your own ammunition. 
 
 The messenger who had brought our letters from 
 home to Adiaboo informed us that he had passed 
 some men on the road who, he believed, were bring- 
 ing some guns and ammunition to us. Here at 
 length was some news of my long-looked-for Express 
 rifle, and also my heavy rifle. I had intrusted the 
 carriage of the gun for us to the missionaries who live 
 at Ailet, and Mr. Lager, the head missionary, said he 
 w^ould arrange that everything should be forwarded 
 just as it was passed into his hands from the authorities 
 at Massowah. Sure enough, about noon the next day, 
 when we were lounging about camp and doing 
 nothing — in fact, waiting for the guns — I heard a shot 
 on the other side of the river, and very soon a short 
 little Abyssinian appeared, dressed in European 
 costume, followed by some natives carrying a box 
 and also some other cases. I was very much amused 
 at his firing the shot, as he strutted into camp with 
 an air of great importance, and feeling, no doubt, 
 that he had accomplished a great task. The shot 
 was to give notice of his presence as he came along. 
 I never was more pleased in my life ; the guns had
 
 SFOJi T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 43 
 
 arrived just at the right moment, and all were un- 
 injured and in as good order as when they had left 
 the gun-maker's shop in St. James's Street. The 
 little fellow who had brought them all this long way 
 was an Abyssinian that the missionaries had reared 
 and educated. He said he had had great difhculty 
 in getting along, and one of the coolies, having fallen 
 sick, had stayed at a village on the road. The first 
 thing we did was to give them plenty to eat and drink, 
 such as we had ; we then squared accounts wich 
 them, and they were to go back home the next day. 
 Most of this day was spent in unpacking the ammu- 
 nition and guns ; they seemed to be all right. To- 
 morrow we were to start for the Tackazzee, and to 
 leave all traces of civilisation, of any sort, behind us ; 
 while we were in the highest possible spirits and our 
 prospects were of the brightest. 
 
 That evening I walked out and went up to the village 
 of Azho to see what it was like : on my way there I 
 "put up" some quail, but I did not fire at them. Azho 
 is a large straggling village built on a high plateau, 
 without any shade in or near it. Some of the natives 
 showed me the way up a steep hill, where I had 
 another view of the country we were going to, and I 
 came back when it was quite dark, having seen a 
 most beautiful sunset over the hills. IT. thought I 
 was lost, and was very nearly sending out to look
 
 144 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 for me. The country we had been travelling through 
 from Adiaboo to Azho was very lovely, and the sides 
 of the low undulating hills were highly cultivated. I 
 have no doubt, in the valleys, the natives reaped a 
 rich harvest. The village of Azho itself was a good 
 specimen of Abyssinian dwellings ; the people seemed 
 well-to-do, and the houses carefully and neatly built. 
 There was a custom-house here, where cotton from 
 Walkait and other distant provinces paid tribute. 
 Before I go on, I must say that the transport of my 
 guns from the village of Ailet to where we were at 
 Azho cost 46 dollars, and the coolies considered 
 themselves well paid. 
 
 Feb. 6. — I started off, before H., with a guide to 
 show me the way, but we chanced, somehow or other, 
 to lose our road, and I was greatly annoyed. This 
 march I did on foot, as my grey mule, which had a 
 very sore back, had to be left behind at Adiaboo. K. 
 procured me another, but it w^as a sorry brute, and 
 always kicked when being mounted, so I got rid 
 of it After wandering about some little time in the 
 jungle, trying to find our way, we at length hit upon 
 the path, and saw some of our own donkeys, under the 
 care of Hadji Mahomet, travelling along. We were 
 to camp at a place called Maidarou, the usual camping- 
 place on this road for all caravans. There were two 
 very large trees close to the pools which supplied us
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 145 
 
 with water, and wc were very glad of their shade 
 after the march of the day. For myself, I was rather 
 tired, and was not in very good working condition, 
 having through most of our marching been riding a 
 mule. After having lunched we pitched our tents ow 
 the flat top of a little rocky hill which just overlooked 
 the two large trees that formed the great feature in this 
 camping-place. On my road here I shot at a gazelle, 
 but, unluckily, the man who was carrying my Express 
 rifle was some distance behind, and so I could only fire 
 at it with m}' little i6-bore gun with a bullet. The 
 next day we were to come to a place called Coom- 
 Coom-Dema. 
 
 This is the head-quarters of those Abyssinians who 
 come down to hunt elephants, for the young Abys- 
 sinians, that is to say the gentlemen of the country, 
 think it part of their education to come here to shoot 
 elephants. There are regular ivory hunters, who 
 live at Azho and the villages near, and these go down 
 to assist. The young Abyssinians who seek to dis- 
 tinguish themselves shoot at the elephant with small 
 shot or slugs, just enough to draw blood, and then it 
 is left to the Neftenias, or hunters, to finish him off 
 with bullets. Their mode of hunting is rather curious. 
 When they see the elephant, of course they stalk him 
 with great care : two lines are made ; the first line, on 
 coming up to the elephant, fire and take to their heels 
 
 L
 
 146 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 as quickly as possible. If the elephant is wounded, he 
 very often charges, and then meets the second line, 
 who receive him with a greater number of shots ; 
 they then follow him up, if badly wounded, and 
 despatch him at their leisure. The Abyssinians are, 
 as a rule, bad sportsmen, and seem to me to be totally 
 unacquainted with the commonest rules of wood-craft. 
 I would recommend all sportsmen who hunt in a \\ild 
 country to adapt their dress as much as possible to 
 the colour of the landscape in which they find them- 
 selves. I always shot in brown cord breeches and 
 flax gaiters, with a good cumberbund* round my 
 waist, and a short-tailed coat, which was made of 
 strong cotton stuff that I bought in India. 
 
 All the servants Avith us, as well as the followers of 
 the young chief, were in a tremendous fright because 
 of the Baria, the negro tribe of which I spoke before, 
 and who came up to this part of the country to hunt 
 the elephant, and also to kill whatever Abyssinians 
 they could find. I myself never saw one of these 
 redoubtable natives, nor do I believe they would 
 attempt to attack a well-armed party ; but in the 
 evening, over the camp fire, many terrible stories 
 were told of how So-and-so was murdered, and how 
 
 * Cumberbund is an Indian word for a thiclc scarf which is wound 
 round and round the waist ; it is a great preventive against sun- 
 stroke and chills.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 147 
 
 cunning and treacherous the Baria were. ]-5rou, the 
 interpreter, was not behindhand in telling us all 
 sorts of terrible things about them. One story he 
 told us was this : There was a man who lived in a 
 village close to the frontier, and who had to pay 
 tribute to the chief of his province in ivory. He had 
 gone down to the desert, or jungle, to hunt the 
 elephant alone ; a wily Baria following him most of 
 the time. It should be stated that this tribe of natives 
 have no fire-arms, and only hunt and destroy with 
 spears and knives. The elephant-hunter was stalking 
 an elephant, and had come up to him ; at the moment 
 he fired, the Baria, who had been sneaking after 
 him, jumped up from behind, drove his knife into him, 
 and killed him. This is a good example of their 
 treachery ; but the Abyssinians are just as much to 
 blame in regard to the Baria or Shangallas, for when- 
 ever the Abyssinians catch them in much smaller 
 numbers than themselves they generally kill them. 
 
 Feb. 7. — H. went on in front to Coom-Coom- 
 Dema : I said that as it was early I should shoot 
 over part of the country and join him later. I went 
 away into the jungle, which lay south of our camp, 
 and came upon some old elephant tracks. I had not 
 gone very much farther before I saw some gazelles ; 
 I managed to get near one of them, and, as it was 
 racing away on the side of a little hill, I rolled it over
 
 148 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 A\'ith my Express. My gun-bearers very soon skinned 
 it, and they having succeeded in lighting a fire, I said 
 they might eat some of it. The way an Abyssinian 
 hunter makes a fire in the jungle is this : he takes some 
 of his powder and rubs it on a bit of cotton cloth which 
 he tears off the clothes he is wearing, and then wraps 
 up a percussion cap in the cloth and hammers the cap 
 between two stones till it explodes ; this ignites the 
 dry cloth, and with the help of some twigs and grass, 
 and b}^ blowing very hard on the smouldering cotton, 
 he manages to light a fire. It is wonderful how natives 
 under the most trying circumstances will kindle a 
 flame where no European would think such a thing 
 possible. 
 
 My gun-bearers were soon roasting the hind-quarters 
 of the gazelle on the ashes, and also eating some parts 
 of it raw. I was sitting down under the shade of a 
 tree, and heard Goubasee behind me munching some- 
 thing ; I turned round, and was much disgusted at 
 seeing him eating the stomach of a gazelle, which was 
 not in the least washed, and in fact was a filthy sight. 
 This is considered a great delicacy by Abyssinians, 
 especially when the stomach is covered with the 
 green undigested food of the animal. After we had 
 all rested, and they had eaten sufficient, we tracked 
 back on our old path, and soon struck the regular 
 caravan road. I thought it would have been a lono-
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 149 
 
 walk, but, to my astonishment, the hills opened and I 
 saw in front of me a large plain — this was the plain of 
 Coom-Coom-Dema. H. had pitched the tents, and 
 everything- was ready and comfortable. Just after we 
 had lunched, one of the servants said that he could 
 see on the plain some large deer, which he called 
 to7'a ; they were in reality hartebeest. They were 
 going down to drink from the pool where we got 
 our water, but directly they saw us they trotted off. 
 Some gazelles got up as we were walking along, and 
 I fired and missed, so did H. There were tracks 
 of buffalo all about our camp, but they were very 
 old, having been made during the rains. Barrakee, 
 who had undertaken the sporting arrangements of 
 the party, said this was a very good place for game, 
 but we determined not to stop here, but to press on 
 to the Tackazzee, the goal of my ambition. 
 
 Feb. 8. — -This morning we were almost awakened by 
 the noise the little sand-grouse made in circling round 
 and round our tents. I got up and brought down two 
 brace of them, as they wheeled round attempting to 
 settle on some ground close to our camp. It was 
 rather pretty shooting, as the birds came very fast, and 
 I only wished that I could have had some more of it, 
 but the rest of the pack soon got frightened and went 
 away. After this we packed up our traps and left 
 Coom-Coom-Dema. On the road, Barrakee, who was
 
 I50 • SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 riding a large white horse, pointed me out a herd of 
 giraffes about half a mile off. I attempted to stalk 
 them, but did not succeed in getting near them. They 
 went off at a slight ambling pace, and when once they 
 had crossed the little hill, on the near side of which 
 they were feeding, I could not see them again. Fisk 
 had come with me, and we were both very anxious to 
 kill something. I shot at some sort of deer, but 
 missed, and on my way back saw a gazelle, at which 
 I did not fire. 
 
 When I came back to the road, completely parched 
 with thirst, as it was very hot, I found that all our 
 donkeys had stopped : this was very vexing, as my 
 great object was to get on now as quickly as possible. 
 Brou said the donkeys were very heavily loaded, that 
 the day was hot, and that there was no prospect 
 of getting water between where we were and the 
 Tackazzee. This was simply untrue ; for when I found 
 Barrakee and talked to him upon the subject, it turned 
 out that there was water farther on ; so I immediately 
 made them reload the donkeys and push on. Barrakee 
 fixed our camp by the edge of a dry riv^er-bed, in 
 which there was left a large pool of water, and there 
 were tracks of elephants having drunk here some 
 time previously. We cleared the high grass from 
 the jungle and pitched our tents, after which H. 
 went out shooting, but did not get anything. When
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. I S I 
 
 it was dark wc saw jungle fires in the distance, 
 which our scr\'ants all said had been kindled by 
 the Baria to burn us out. This, of course, was all 
 humbug, or they had nothing better to talk about. 
 The place we camped at was called Kourasa, or the 
 house of the long-tailed monkey, and this water-hole 
 which Ave w^ere camped by, Barrakee told us, is a regular 
 drinking-place for elephants ; he added, with much 
 mystery and fear, that perhaps they might come in 
 the night and trample on our canlp. I only hoped 
 they would ! The natives assured me that we should 
 find the Tackazzee next day ; and, accordingly, in the 
 morning we started, H. having gone on in front with 
 the young chief.
 
 152 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 THE FOREST — THE TACKAZZEE AT LAST — A FORD — AN UNHEALTHY 
 CAMP — HIPPOPOTAMI — A RAFT — ON THE ELEPHANT TRACK — IN 
 SIGHT OF GAME — A LION AND A MESS — BIVOUACKING — BEGINNING 
 OF MY ILLNESS — GUINEA FOWL — WE TURN HOMEWARDS — " THE 
 
 blues" — RAFT-BUILDING A CARAVAN — ELEPHANT AGAIN — A BIG 
 
 fish! — 'NEWSPAPERS — CHANGE OF QUARTERS — THE GAME OF 
 "GALANIFT." 
 
 Feb. 9. — To-day I was to take charge of the heavy 
 baggage and donkeys ; this we generally took it in 
 turns to do. I caught H. up at a river, where I 
 found them all drinking. He went on directly, and 
 I stopped for an hour to rest our twenty-one donkeys 
 and their drivers, and to let them have something 
 to drink. The country we were travelling through had 
 changed ; we were at a much lower level than we had 
 been before, and dome-palms grew in every direction, 
 the shorter and younger ones of which made a thick 
 jungle which we pushed our way through, the leaves 
 causing a great rattling as we went on. This was 
 much more my idea of an African forest than any- 
 thincr I had ever seen before. I saw a haeazin on the
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 5 3 
 
 side of a hill near me, and tried to stalk it. I got so 
 close to the animal that I could hear him making a 
 peculiar grunting noise close to me, but for the life of 
 me, in the thick jungle, I could not make out where 
 he was. I moved on a little farther, and then I saw 
 him trotting away in the distance. Elephant tracks 
 were to be seen in all directions crossing the main path 
 along which we travelled, and fresh elephant dung was 
 here in quantities. 
 
 I travelled on through the forest and came upon 
 the party of the young chief, who was waiting 
 for me by some water, H. having come across 
 elephants and gone after them. I asked the little 
 chief why he had not gone with him to hunt 
 elephants ; he said, in the most polite way, that he was 
 staying behind to wait for me. I thanked him, and 
 determined to push on again and make the Tackazzee 
 that day. Mahomet, one of the coolies, or rather 
 donkey-drivers, that we had brought with us from 
 Adiaboo, volunteered to act as guide. I pushed on as 
 quickly as possible, and, about half-past four in the 
 afternoon, the servants pointed out the Tackazzee. 
 There, sure enough, was a broad river below me, run- 
 ning between high rocky hills, with its waters gleaming 
 in the setting sun. I was standing several hundred 
 feet above it, and on the left of me, on the same side 
 on which I was, was a green jungle of grass and tama-
 
 1 5 4 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 risk bushes fringing the bank of the river. A large 
 herd of hagazin had just been drinking, and they were 
 moving quietly away, the males leading and the 
 hinds following with the little fawns trotting at their 
 feet. The whole scene was really a beautiful one, and 
 I stopped for some little time to admire the view 
 which lay before me. The natives had pointed out 
 the antelope to me, but I was too excited to take 
 any notice, so I gave them a view-halloo, and told the 
 guide to lead me to the bottom of the hill where the 
 river ran. When we got down into the green jungle 
 which fringed the bank of the river it was so high we 
 could not see over it, and pushing on through it, we 
 soon found ourselves on the shingly bed of the river. 
 The water was beautifully clear, and I gladly drank 
 a draught of it. We then forded the river with 
 some of the more lightly-laden donkeys, which had 
 managed to keep up and follow me. Goubasee, on 
 his arrival at the other side, held up his hands and 
 exclaimed, " God has brought us safely here !" I was 
 so pleased to see a large river again that I took off 
 my boots and paddled about in the water, for almost 
 the last fresh-water stream of a good size I had seen 
 was the one on which the Citizen penny steamers 
 glide. 
 
 We had brought down two cows from Adiaboo with 
 us, and these animals were very nearly swept away by
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 5 5 
 
 the stream, where they would have been devoured by 
 crocodiles. The man who had charge of them lost his 
 head, and became very nearly as frightened as were 
 the beasts themselves ; at last some of the servants 
 rushed into the water, got below the cows, and drove 
 them back to the bank they started from. They then 
 attempted again, and crossed in safety. I fixed the 
 camp amidst a large grove of dome-palms ; a prettier 
 place could not well be imagined. The ground was 
 perfectly flat ; in fact, as if it had been thoroughly 
 stamped down. There was a beautiful shade of a large 
 leafy tree close by, but unluckily, as is often the case 
 in Eastern climes, where the scene is of the loveliest 
 the place is most unwholesome ; and, as proved after- 
 wards, most of us, m}'sclf included, fell ill, which I 
 believe was a great deal owing to our not having fixed 
 our camp on one of the high hills that overlooked the 
 river, instead of down in the river-bed. Experientia 
 docet, and, as my readers will see afterwards, I paid 
 dearly for what little experience I gained in rough 
 travel in this country. 
 
 I heard, in a pool below the ford where we had 
 crossed, some animals making an unusual noise, grunt- 
 ing and blowing. I went down with my gun-bearers to 
 the edge of the river, and, behold ! there were eight 
 fine hippopotami disporting themselves in the river, 
 much in the same way as the old river-horse at the
 
 1 5 6 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 Zoo may be seen swimming about his tank. They 
 reared themselves out of the water and exposed 
 their heads and part of their necks, sometimes 
 opening their enormous jaws so that I could see 
 their white tusks. I fired at the nearest of the 
 herd, and hit him behind the ear. He began 
 bleeding profusely, and waltzed round and round in 
 the water, causing tremendous waves. At last in about 
 half an hour he sank, and we saw him no more. I 
 shot at several more and, I believe, killed another, but 
 we saw no traces of them again ; and I think it is a 
 great chance, in a large rapid river of this sort, if 
 their carcases are found at all. I sent servants during 
 the following days up and down the river, but they 
 were quite unsuccessful in finding any trace of the 
 beasts. H. did not come in till late, having gone 
 after an elephant he had wounded. He told me they 
 had found large clots of blood on the animal's track, 
 but that he had to give up as they were getting far 
 away from our line of march and from any water- 
 pools. Cassa arrived very late with the rest of the 
 donkeys. He assured us that one of the Baria had 
 fired the jungle in a circle, and so had tried to surround 
 him and some of the more heavily-laden donkeys 
 which had lagged behind. This was quite believed 
 by all our servants, and it made a great impression 
 on some of them.
 
 SFOIi T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 5 7 
 
 Feb. 10. — To-day we rested most of the morning. 
 In the afternoon I went down to the pool where the 
 hippopotami were, but they had got much more shy, 
 and showed only just the tops of their heads and their 
 wicked-looking little ears above water. As one 
 opened his jaws I hit him smack in the mouth ; this 
 sounded just as if a bullet had gone into a stack of 
 faggots. He sank immediately, and I could not in the 
 least tell whether I had killed him or not. As these 
 hippopotami had got so shy, I commenced to-day, 
 with the help of Brou, to make a raft on which to try 
 and go down the river to them. Some of the dome- 
 palms had fallen down from old age and from the 
 effects of the floods that svveejj by during the rainy 
 season ; I proposed to lash these together with raw 
 hide, but I had nothing except a hand-saw to cut the 
 logs the proper length, and the palm wood was very 
 hard and the weather very hot. 
 
 Feb. II. — We had arranged with Barrakec to go for 
 three days and sleep out, or bivouac, and hunt 
 elephants ; we accordingly started straight inland 
 towards the mountains of Walkait. After we had 
 crossed the hills, under which the Tackazzee ran, we 
 came upon a sort of open plain with little hills crop- 
 ping up here and there, and we had been following 
 fresh elephant tracks the whole time. I must not 
 forget to mention that during the night a large herd of
 
 1 5 8 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 elephants had passed close to our camp, and that all 
 the jungle round was trampled and broken in every 
 direction. I just remember, in a half-sleepy state, 
 hearing strange noises, but I thought at the time 
 that it was only the " hippos " disporting themselves 
 in the pool below. At last Barrakee, who was going 
 in front, said that we were getting very close to the 
 elephants, and that we must leave our mules behind 
 us, and follow them up the rest of the w^ay on foot. 
 Not long afterwards we saw two elephants in the 
 distance moving slowly along. We tried to stalk 
 them, but we did not succeed. Barrakee took us to 
 some water, where we drank, and close by which, as 
 we came up to it, were some pigs lying asleep under 
 a tree. An Abyssinian tried to knock one over with 
 the butt of his gun, for we did not like to fire, being 
 so close to the elephants. 
 
 After we had halted for a little time and rested our- 
 selves, Barrakee said we should move on, and he took 
 us to the top of a steep little hill, where he said we 
 were to pass the night, and from whence we could see 
 the whole country round us. Brou, and a couple of men 
 that Barrakee had with him, built us a " das." We ate 
 some luncheon, and then we sat down to watch for any 
 elephant that might perchance be about. We had thus 
 waited for about an hour when Barrakee leaped up and 
 said he saw two elephants in the distance, so we got
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 1 59 
 
 our guns and went off to stalk them. The elephants 
 were walking towards the south, following the main 
 body of the herd which had passed very early in the 
 morning. Our object was to cut them off on their 
 way, and Barrakee led us sometimes over the low 
 hills, and sometimes round the sides of them, and we 
 gradually approached nearer the two elephants, who 
 were moving along swinging their trunks about, and 
 sometimes stopping to pick off a bit of a shrub which 
 looked more dainty than the rest. At last there 
 was only one little hill for us to go over, and to cross 
 it would bring us right across the path of the two 
 elephants. We were creeping along very quietly 
 when, as we came to a few rocks, where, in the 
 rainy season, a torrent evidently poured down, Bar- 
 rakee stopped suddenly and said, " Ambasa !" which 
 is Amharic for lion. I snatched hold of my Express, 
 rushed up and saw a fine male lion moving slowly 
 away among the rocks. At the moment I was going 
 to fire, H. came up and fired his heavy rifle close 
 behind me ; both barrels went off at once, and I thought 
 at first I was shot, as nine drams of powder is rather 
 a large charge to be let off close to one's ear. I missed 
 the lion ; so did H. I loaded again and ran after 
 him and fired, and missed. The elephants, which were 
 not more than forty or fifty yards off, went off in 
 another direction, and the lion, passing through some
 
 1 60 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 trees, " put up" a herd of large deer which went also 
 in a different direction. It was a sisjlit errand enough 
 but we had made a terrible mess of the whole thing : 
 we ought not to have fired at the lion, and, as the ser- 
 vants said, " If you had killed the elephants, plenty of 
 lions would have come to pick the bones." I may tell 
 my readers that the lions in Abyssinia are not like 
 the familiar picture that is everywhere to be seen of 
 animals with enormous manes, as the species in this 
 country have no mane at all. We then walked back 
 to the little hill whereon we were to camp that night, 
 all of us disappointed and crestfallen. The whole 
 of the top of this hill was covered with the most 
 beautiful sweet-smelling grass, and of this we gathered 
 a large quantity to make our beds. I had arranged 
 with one of our servants to bring out my little camp 
 bed and blankets, but, as we went away from camp 
 rather quickly, following up the tracks of the elephant, 
 the native lost his way, and I had nothing to cover 
 me but some sacking, which the medicine case was 
 wrapped up in. That night we slept very comfort- 
 ably and warmly, as the grass made a capital bed. 
 
 Feb. 12. — This day we moved away on the track 
 of the herd of elephants. The jungle became denser, 
 and Barrakee halted us by a beautiful stream of 
 water, and pointed out a hill close by, where he 
 said we should camp that night. A little river that
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 1 6 1 
 
 we were near was full of small fish, and I amused 
 myself by trying to catch some of them by damming 
 up a part of the river, but I did not succeed. After 
 luncheon I went up the stream, and found Barrakee 
 and H. seated on a rock engaged in trying to 
 catch some fish ; one of them with a crooked pin, and 
 the other with the only hook we had in camp. 
 Amongst us we managed to lift three out of tlic 
 water ; these I cleaned and brought them back into 
 camp for dinner. After catching tb.c fish we took a 
 most delicious swim in the pool. That night, un- 
 luckily for me, there was no grass to be found, and I 
 borrowed a blanket from Brou, but, foolishly, instead 
 of covering myself up with it, I rolled it up and used 
 it as a pillow. I caught a chill in the night, and 
 in consequence, found myself suffering from severe 
 diarrhcea in the morning. From this day date all my 
 troubles, illness, and misfortunes. It certainly was 
 very unfortunate, as we had only just got into the 
 country where the game was really to be found. 
 
 This only shows how particularly careful one ought 
 to be when leading a life of this sort, and especially 
 when sleeping out in the open air. A good thick 
 fiannel belt should always be worn next the skin. 
 What I really believe gave me this chill was that I 
 took off the cumberbund, which had been wound 
 tightly round my waist, in order to sleep more com- 
 
 .M
 
 1 62 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 fortably. This proceeding was a terrible mistake, as 
 it is in the night time and the early dawn that these 
 chills are acquired, which prove at all times most 
 deadly, especially in a hot climate. 
 
 On the whole, I should consider Abyssinia to be a 
 very healthy country. The only two complaints which 
 Europeans seem to suffer from are intermittent fevers 
 — which are not, as a rule, of a very dangerous nature 
 — and dysentery, which, of course, if proper remedies 
 and suitable food are at hand, is not serious, but 
 under other circumstances may prove very dangerous. 
 Let me urge upon all travellers who go to seek ad- 
 venture and sport in Africa to remember to keep their 
 heads well protected from the sun, and their loins well 
 girded with either a thick cumberbund, worn outside, 
 or, better still, a flannel belt worn next the skin. 
 Every one will notice that the natives are dressed in 
 this way, especially the Arabs who live at Massowah, 
 where the climate is very hot. It would be useless 
 for me to go into the different diseases the natives of 
 the country are subject to. There is one which I have 
 already mentioned, that is the taenia, or tajaeworm. 
 They are also subject to intermittent fevers during 
 the rains, and suffer from a complaint caused by a 
 parasite called the Guinea worm, which is a worm that 
 forms in the flesh, very often the thigh, and has to be 
 gradually twisted out. If during the operation the
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 63 
 
 worm breaks, a horrible ulcer forms. As to scrofula 
 and its origin, I saw very little of it, the natives 
 seeming, on the whole, pretty free from this terrible 
 scourge. When a person among them is afflicted with 
 very bad rheumatism they have rather an original way 
 of effecting a cure, which is by putting bits of cotton 
 on the parts affected, and igniting them, making them 
 burn fiercely by blowing upon the cotton. This is 
 even sometimes done for the purpose of creating 
 beauty marks, as they are considered- — a young man 
 showing his fortitude by allowing one of the fair sex 
 to light one of these bits of cotton, and blow on it to 
 create as much heat as possible. If by any chance he 
 flinches, or shows any indication of pain, he is thought 
 to be a coward, and not worthy of the lady's notice. 
 Concerning this mode of curing rheumatism, I believe 
 there is some similar custom among country people 
 in England, the modus opcrmidi being a heated flat 
 iron with which the affected limb is treated. 
 
 Feb. 13. — I rode out this morning on my mule 
 through a green, thorny jungle which lay opposite the 
 hill on which we were camped. I was on the look- 
 out for big game, and so did not fire at a large flock 
 of guinea-fowl which I put uj) : there must have been 
 at least two or three hundred of them, and they all 
 rose at once, making a tremendous row. It was a 
 very pretty sight, and one quite peculiar to the coun-
 
 1 64 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 try which I was in. I felt very seedy, and disinclined 
 to do anything ; and so having gone straight through 
 this patch of jungle I came to the little stream again, 
 where I sat down by a pool, and waited there for most 
 of the day, in hopes of some animal coming down to 
 drink. Barrakee, who had been out in a different 
 direction with H., not long after I had been here, 
 came up, and H. went on down the stream, while 
 Barrakee and myself watched over the pool. A little 
 gazelle came to drink : instead of my waiting in order 
 to get a broadside shot, I fired at it while it was 
 looking at me, and the result was to break one of its 
 fore-legs. Barrakee rushed after it, but we saw no 
 more of it. I then mounted my mule, which had been 
 grazing close by, and rode home into camp. Our 
 three days were over, our provisions finished, and we 
 resolved the next day, which was Sunday, to start for 
 home. 
 
 Feb. 14. — I was worse to-day, and we started early 
 for our camp on the Tackazzee. The servants, while 
 we had been absent, had, according to arrangement, 
 moved the camp away from the river ; Fisk had been 
 left in charge. The reason of this move was they 
 were all very much frightened of the Baria, and 
 thought, as we should be absent with our guns, that 
 it would be better if they got away from the river, 
 by whose banks the Baria are supposed to be
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 1 65 
 
 always lurking. I rode towards camp feeling very 
 desponding, and on the way II. fired at some pig, 
 and wounded one badly, but the beast managed to 
 get away, leaving large tracks of blood on its path. 
 We also saw some strange-looking deer, of a colour 
 resembling that usual with donkeys, but with short 
 horns curving back from their foreheads like thope 
 of goats : they stood, I should think, very nearly 
 fourteen hands from the ground. On our way back 
 we passed the spot which had been the scene of our 
 unlucky exploit with the lion, and, curiously enough, 
 two gazelles came bounding past at the time, but we 
 succeeded in missing them ; we were fated to kill no 
 game in this place. When I rode into camp, Hadji 
 Mahomet, the old native we had brought from 
 Massowah, came up to welcome us back, and said, in 
 Arabic, "Allah has brought you safely back." I felt 
 very much inclined to reply, and I believe I did at 
 the time, " No, my mule has brought me back," as I 
 felt very disappointed, and looked upon the expedition 
 we had made as a total failure. I was very glad to 
 get into a comfortable bed, as the coolie, who had lost 
 his way, had succeeded in finding the camp the ser- 
 vants had pitched a little way off from the Tackazzee. 
 Feb. 15. — I was still bad with this horrid com- 
 plaint, and so I stayed in camp reading the few books 
 we had with us, and took medicine ; I also amused
 
 1 66 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 myself by making a small model of the raft that 
 I proposed to use when hunting the hippopotami, in 
 order that Brou might understand how to go on 
 working at it. H. and Fisk went out shooting par- 
 tridges to make broth for me. There were not nearly 
 so many partridges here on the Tackazzee as we 
 found on the Mareb ; for the tamarisk bushes which 
 fringe the banks of the Mareb were, as a rule, full of 
 them. With a couple of dogs we might really have 
 had some very good shooting, and made big bags ; 
 but without dogs it was almost impossible to get the 
 birds up, as they ran so tremendously ; but when they 
 did get up they were not hard to shoot, as they did 
 not seem to fly nearly so strongly as the English 
 birds, which they very much resembled, with one ex- 
 ception, which was that their bills and legs were red, 
 the plumage being exactly the same. We tried to 
 keep some of the birds, in order to give them that 
 gamy flavour which is esteemed in England ; but the 
 weather was too hot, and the flesh got bad too 
 quickly. The rapid setting-in of decomposition was 
 a great drawback when a beast was killed in camp, as 
 the meat had to be eaten almost immediately ; but, 
 both in its raw and cooked state, it is surprising what 
 a quantity the natives will manage to consume. 
 
 Feb. 1 6. — To-day I was very much better, the 
 medicine seemed to have done me good ; but, instead
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 167 
 
 of staying in camp and perfecting my cure, I stupidly 
 went out and did a hard day's work, standing up to 
 my middle under water in a hot sun, to complete the 
 raft. The raft when finished was, to speak fairly, a 
 great success. It was made in the following way : 
 Six logs of the dome-palm tree were lashed with raw 
 hide, cut from the skin of one of the cows which we 
 had killed in camp ; the logs were lashed to two cross 
 pieces, and from one cross piece to the other I fixed 
 two thin pliable boughs, under which I jammed a lot 
 of dry " hippopotamus grass " (the long grass growing 
 by the side of the river), which had been cut a 
 day or two before and put out in the sun on the 
 shingly bank of the river to dry. The grass was 
 jammed in under these thin sticks, so that it went 
 across the logs and made a place for any one to 
 stand in, and also assisted in promoting the buoyancy 
 of the raft. 
 
 A caravan of about three or four hundred people 
 came across the river to-day on their way to 
 Walkait. These caravans generally assemble in 
 Tigre, in order to make up a large number, so that 
 their goods may be properly cared for in case of 
 any attack by the Baria. One man among them 
 had a couple of very good-looking donkeys ; he 
 must have procured them from some of the Arab 
 tribes who live on the borders of the country ; I tried
 
 1 68 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 to buy one of the donkeys, but the man wanted a 
 great deal too much for it. The caravan only stayed 
 close to our camp during the heat of the day, and in 
 the afternoon they moved on. They were bringing 
 back grain and salt, having taken out cotton to the 
 different towns in the province of Tigre. 
 
 Feb. 17. — I am better to-day, and I worked at the 
 raft to put the finishing touches to it. In the afternoon 
 I went out fishing, and I had put on a hook with a piece 
 of raw meat as bait, having made a rod of two bamboo 
 sticks spliced together. I caught nothing, nor did I 
 even get a bite. I was sitting in camp towards the 
 evening when one of the coolies rushed in to say that 
 he had seen some elephants on the other side of the 
 river, a little way down, looking very much as if they 
 were going to cross the river. Barrakee was in camp. 
 I took my guns, and he, with two of his men and my 
 gun-bearers, went out to look for the elephants. We 
 crept along the bank of the river, and on the other 
 side Barrakee pointed out two fine bull elephants ; 
 they were standing amongst the dense jungle which 
 bordered the river, evidently undecided whether to 
 cross or not. H. and Fisk were out shooting par- 
 tridges for our dinner, and just as we saw the elephants 
 we heard two shots. This was very unlucky, but H. 
 had no idea that there were elephants near. It must 
 have startled them, as very shortly afterwards we saw
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 69 
 
 them crashing away through the forest. It was a 
 very pretty picture to see these huge animals standing 
 amongst the thick trees and jungle, the rays of the 
 setting sun, at the time, just lighting up the broad 
 and sparkling river as it ran below us — the whole 
 being a thoroughly wild African scene, and one which 
 any lover of sport would have appreciated. I should 
 say that whilst fishing that afternoon I left a hand- 
 line in charge of a native, who afterwards assured me, 
 when I asked him if he had had a bite, that some 
 big fish had taken hold of it and pulled him on to his 
 knees ; certainly one of his knees was a little bit 
 bruised by the stones. The thermometer here ranged 
 from 109'^ to 115° in the tent, in the middle of the 
 day ; so my readers may imagine it was pretty hot, 
 
 Feb. 18. — To-day Brou got the raft ready for 
 launching, and a large caravan of nearly four hundred 
 people came across the river, most of whom camped 
 close by. One of our messengers, whom we had 
 employed to carry letters for us to the coast, had 
 taken this opportunity of joining the caravan in 
 order to bring the letters down to us. Arrekel Bey, 
 the Governor of Massowah, had sent me some French 
 newspapers, so we were well posted up in all the news. 
 The chief of the caravan had been very kind to our 
 coolie, who was named Givra Michael, and had 
 given him food during the journey. We sent for
 
 1 70 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 the chief and talked some time with him : he told me 
 he was taking his people, and cows, and belongings, 
 back to his home in \Valkait_, the country then being at 
 peace. There are very often feuds and disputes going 
 on among the petty chiefs, especially in this part 
 of Abyssinia. I amused the Abyssinian by showing 
 him my guns and revolvers, and, for his edification, 
 fired at a mark with one of my revolvers : he was 
 much astonished at the rapidity with which the re- 
 volver went off". I made him a present of a pocket- 
 handkerchief and two hanks of beads, with which he 
 was very much delighted. I had with me at the 
 time Rassam's book, called ' British Mission to Abys- 
 sinia ;' in the frontispiece of the first volume is a 
 picture of King Theodore, and this I showed to the 
 chief and most of his followers. They were in- 
 tensely interested with it, and said the likeness was 
 very good. It was very amusing to hear their re- 
 marks and to see the expression on their faces as the 
 picture was handed round. I went out fishing in the 
 evening, but some monster of the deep ran out about 
 seventy yards of my line so fast that I could scarcely 
 hold it. I am rather better to-day, having taken some 
 opium. 
 
 Feb. 19. — Brou came to me this morning to tell 
 me that Barrakee was suffering from diarrhoea, and 
 begged I would give him a little brandy and water. I
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 also discovered that others of the servants were sufifer- 
 ing from the same complaint ; indeed none of them 
 looked very well. I consulted with H., and it was 
 agreed that we should move camp to-night, there 
 being a full moon at the time, which afforded plenty of 
 light to travel by. I launched the raft in the after- 
 noon, and got it safely over the rapids that we had 
 forded, and moored it on the left bank of the river, a 
 little above the hippopotamus pool. I thought at 
 the time that j^erhaps a change ujd into the more 
 bracing air of the hills would do m}'self, as well as 
 the rest of the party, some good, and that we might 
 before leaving the country return here ; but my wishes 
 were never realized. That evening we dined early and 
 left camp about eight o'clock, having burned all our 
 "dasscs" (or leaf-houses), which made a tremendous 
 blaze, and the scene certainly was a wild one. Before 
 coming down to the Tackazzee I had presented all 
 the servants with a piece of red cloth, which they put 
 round their heads, and by the light of the blazing 
 sticks they looked more like so many devils than 
 human beings. They were scantily clothed, and the 
 red handkerchiefs gave them a fierce and wild ap- 
 pearance. We crossed the river, bathed in the light 
 of a full tropical moon, then marched up along the 
 road that we had come by, and we pitched camp near 
 some water in the jungle at 10.45. I was a little
 
 1 7 2 SPOJi T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 better, but the ride up from the river tired me a good 
 deal. 
 
 Feb. 20. — My complaint is about the same, but I do 
 not suffer so much pain from it. I took three doses 
 of opium, but this medicine makes one feel very- 
 weak. I amused myself in the afternoon learning 
 an Abyssinian game called Galanift, which is played 
 in the following way : twelve small holes are dug in 
 the ground, six in a row opposite each other ; four 
 pellets, or bullets, are put into each hole ; A takes 
 one row, and B the other. They sit down opposite 
 each other, and the object of the game is to take 
 the adversary's bullets by certain moves, which are 
 all made from left to right. It is something like 
 the game called Solitaire, but is very complicated, 
 and requires the exertion of your powers of mental 
 arithmetic to understand it.
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 7 3 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 OUR DAILY ROUTINE — BAKING A JERKED KOODOO — LOSS OF AN 
 ELEPHANT— A SEPARATION — MY ILLNESS INCREASES — STARVATION 
 — A GOD-SEND — SAD PLIGHT— FRESH SUPPLIES — A HARD MARCH — 
 NARROW ESCAPE — AN EXCITING HUNT — PRIMITIVE BUTCHERY — A 
 CURIOUS SHOT — CARAVAN — EXCHANGE OF CIVILITIES — " CHURCH " 
 — CHANGEOFAIR — ACCIDENT TO THE KITCHEN — STRANGE VISITORS 
 — A THUNDERSTORM. 
 
 Feb. 21. — I have nothing of great importance to 
 tell about this day. I lost my pencil, that I used 
 to write my diary with, and I was obliged to use 
 as a substitute the sad remains of the only quill 
 pen left me, and which I managed to render ser- 
 viceable by tying it on to a bit of stick. As I 
 have so little to say, I will give you a sketch of our 
 day in camp. It begins mostly at sunrise. The 
 first thing that happens is that the donkeys and 
 mules are untethered and led out to grass. Our 
 water-barrel is taken down to the stream or pool 
 which we are camped by, to be filled ; it takes about 
 three men to carry it up again full. When the water 
 is brought up the kettles are put on to boil, and
 
 1 74 SPOJi T IN ABYSS INI A. 
 
 Mahomet, who is my servant, and Fisk, H.'s ser- 
 vant, get ready our things for dressing. We get 
 up and generally perform our ablutions in the open 
 air, with our little basin either propped upon the 
 stump of a tree or else on a heap of stones close to 
 the tent. We breakfast about eight, and then go out 
 shooting — that is to say, I used to do so when I 
 v/as well. Fisk serves out the servants' rations for 
 the day about ten o'clock, and a very few minutes 
 after this all hands are hard at work making their 
 bread, which is accomplished by mixing flour and 
 water and making the whole mass into a plaster-of- 
 Paris-like paste. 
 
 Most of our servants have divided themselves into 
 messes of three or four, and the way in which they 
 bake their bread is both original and primitive. Well- 
 to-do travellers in Abyssinia generally carry an iron 
 pan, exactly the shape of one of the copper scale 
 pans that grocers weigh tea in, but the poorer 
 natives have to content themselves with a flat stone, 
 numbers of which are to be seen, propped up on 
 other stones, at all the camping-places on the road, 
 with the ashes of recent fires beneath them. While 
 they are making their paste the stone is being 
 heated over a fire, and directly it is hot enough they 
 pour on to it the liquid dough and let it bake ; 
 when it is done on one side they turn it over like a
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. ' 1 7 5 
 
 pancake. When sufificiently cooked it is a hot doughy- 
 sort of flat cake ; and those people who arc lucky 
 enough to have a little red pepper eat it with the 
 bread. There is nothing of which an Abyssinian is 
 so fond as red pepper, and the quantity he manages 
 to pass down his throat is something surprising. 
 We had a good deal of rice with us, and had found 
 that by grinding the rice between two smooth flat 
 stones, which we got from the bed of the Tackazzec, 
 it made excellent flour ; and we had hot rice cakes, 
 baked in Brou's iron pan, every morning for break- 
 fast. After breakfast, if I did not go out shooting, 
 there was generally something to do in camp, either 
 to mend or put the men to work at making ropes, out 
 of the fibre of a certain tree, for lashing our things 
 together, or else sending them to cut grass for our 
 "das," or leaf-house, which we live in during the day, 
 as these bowers are always much cooler when they are 
 well thatched with grass. Sometimes we have tiffin, 
 and sometimes not. It is usually hottest between one 
 and three in the afternoon, and then it is always 
 best to be in camp. In the evening we generally 
 went out shooting till dark. The donkeys and mules, 
 having been taken to water, are brought in about five 
 o'clock and tethered ; they are left to stand till 
 dark, when the grass that has been cut is given them 
 for the night. We dined between seven and eight,
 
 176 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 and after dinner the flour was served out to the 
 servants for their evening meal. Any arrangements 
 were now made for the day following. H. and 1 
 sat by the camp fire, generally played a tune upon 
 my banjo, and then, after enjoying a smoke, we 
 turned in to rest. 
 
 After dinner is one of the pleasantest times in 
 this beautiful climate ; the stars shine brightly, and 
 from the place where we were now encamped the con- 
 stellations, both of the Great Bear and the Southern 
 Cross, could be seen. For the last week I had been 
 so unwell that I had not written up my journal. 
 Symptoms of dysentery had appeared, and I was 
 afraid I should be laid up. During this week H. 
 had been out shooting, and he and Barrakee had the 
 luck between them to kill a large koodoo. Of course 
 all hands in camp were delighted, and a great portion 
 of the meat was "jerked," that is to say, hung up in 
 the sun and dried. We found, at first, this jerked 
 meat was very hard to eat, but by grinding it be- 
 tween two stones, mixing it with a little rice, fat, 
 and onions, and then making it into a sort of rissole 
 and frying it, it did not make at all a bad meal. 
 
 One day during this week H. went out after 
 elephants, and saw a very large herd ; he said there 
 must have been about eighty of them, but when the
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 7 7 
 
 herd winded the hunters, they trumpeted and sepa- 
 rated about the country. Two of them were making 
 down a Httle ravine, close to \\herc II., Barrakee, 
 and the gun-bearer, were standing. H. told mc 
 that Plowden Gubrihotc, his gun-bearer, was in a 
 dreadful "funk," and assured him that these ele- 
 phants were the man-killing elephants, well known 
 in this part of the world ; that they would surely kill 
 them if they did not immediately take to their heels 
 and run away. H. told him to sit still, or else he 
 would "lick" him. The elephants came nearer and 
 nearer, and one of Barrakee's men put up his gun to 
 fire. This would have been ridiculous, as they were 
 nearly eighty yards off. H. knocked the gun out of 
 his hand, and told him to sit quiet. The elephants 
 were now fast approaching, when Barrakee and his man 
 both fired. This was exceedingly annoying, as from 
 all accounts the elephants would have passed by close 
 to where the party were concealed, and H. would have 
 had a capital shot. 
 
 We stopped in the jungle here rather more than a 
 week. I thought perhaps another change of air would 
 do me good, and we moved up to Kourasa, where we 
 had been camped before. I did not know at the time 
 that I was so ill, nor did H., or else I should not 
 have made the proposal I did when we got here. I 
 told II. that our time was short in the country, and 
 
 N
 
 1 78 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 it was of very little use his stopping with me ; I 
 thought he had better move on with Barrakee, who 
 assured us that, in the country near his village on the 
 frontier, we should find very good shooting, even much 
 better than we had had before. H. left me a few 
 servants behind, and four or five donkeys. We were 
 getting short of flour, and we agreed that he should 
 go on to Barrakee's village, send me back flour for the 
 servants, and that I, on the day after he left, would 
 move up to Coom-Coom-Dema and stop there till the 
 flour arrived. Accordingly the next day he started 
 away in the morning. Just as he left, luckily I said 
 to him, " I think you had better leave me five dollars of 
 our money, in case of accidents." This was literally all 
 the coin I had with me when I started to go to the coast. 
 I started the next day for Coom-Coom-Dema, 
 and very nearly lost my way ; my gun-bearers did 
 not seem to remember it, and it was only by chance 
 that I recollected some trees and a low hill which 
 guided me across the plain to where we had been en- 
 camped before. When I arrived I felt very bad indeed, 
 and I was really exceedingly ill. The flour had run out, 
 and I had to serve out some rice that evening to my 
 servants ; for myself I had some biscuits to eat. I 
 hoped by the morning of the next day to receive flour 
 from H., but it never came, and the servants had no 
 food nearly all that day, except some scraps that
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 79 
 
 they had managed to save. The next morning I had 
 nothing to give them, but they seemed to bear it all 
 without complaint. I went out to try and kill some 
 of the little sand-grouse for myself, but I did not 
 succeed. When I came into camp Petros informed 
 me the donkey-boy had broken down ; and when he 
 had brought in the animals to tie them up for the 
 night, that he had begun to cry and had said, "Where's 
 master } for I want something to eat." I was at m>' 
 wit's-end what to do, as it was two long days' march 
 to the nearest village, which was Azho, and I had 
 only just enough rice for one meal. 
 
 Things looked very bad ; the evening closed in, 
 and, just before it got dark, Petros shouted out, 
 "Oh, here is the flour!" It was not our own flour, 
 it was a leading party of a caravan which was 
 goincr throuc^h to Walkait. This was indeed a 
 God-send ! I saw there was no time to be lost, 
 so I called for my rifle, and the first donkey I 
 saw that looked as if it was loaded with flour I 
 seized, led to the camp, unloaded it, and poured out 
 the flour on the tarpaulin sheet which generally 
 formed the floor of our tent. The owner of the 
 donkey, as well as some of the rest of the caravan, 
 were, I believe, going to expostulate ; but I told one 
 of my servants to tell them if they moved I would 
 shoot them, and that we were starving and we must
 
 1 8o SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 liave food. At that moment the chief of the caravan 
 — or rather the man who is generally appointed to 
 lead these people through the country, and arrange 
 all payments to the customs — appeared. He made 
 everything all right, and we kept the flour ; and, as he 
 rode away to the place where they were going to stop 
 that night, he sent me back, by one of my servants, 
 some bread of his own. 
 
 Feb. 26. — I find in my journal this day that I was 
 very ill, and vv^ent out in the morning and shot two brace 
 of little sand-grouse, as I had not had fresh meat for 
 some little time. I did not take any more medicine, as 
 I found it made me so weak. I caused the servants to 
 make me a large " das," long and narrow ; in one end I 
 used to sit most of the day, and in the other my guns 
 and what few provisions I had were hung up. They 
 watered the ground all round, and also the grass walls 
 of the " das," so that it made me pretty cool during the 
 heat of the da)', whilst the darkness kept the flies out : 
 certainly it was rather miserable w^ork feeling and 
 being ill all alone in the jungle ; indeed long before 
 this I ought to have started for home, as, when once 
 dysentery gets hold of you, nothing but complete 
 change of air, good food, and medicine, is likely to 
 eftect a cure. I still hung on to the thought that I 
 should get better, but, if I had known what was really 
 the matter, I should never have hesitated.
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. . 1 8 1 
 
 Feb. 27. — Our own flour did not appear till the 
 afternoon of to-day, and I never felt more pleased 
 than when I got it. They gave me a note from H., 
 which was written in pencil on an envelope, and ran 
 as follows : — 
 
 " Barrakee's Village, Friday, zdih, i r.M. 
 " Thank Heaven we have just this moment arrived ! 
 You never saw such a journey : it was sixty, if not 
 seventy, miles. We waited for two hours in the heat 
 of the day to rest the donkeys, and then went on as 
 hard as we could, and arrived at the river that Barrakee 
 had spoken about at 6 P.M. The rest of the donkeys 
 came up about an hour after. We stayed till the 
 moon got up about ii or 12 P.M. We had to leave 
 the donkeys behind ; they will, I hope, be here some 
 time to-night. I have been marching ever since, and 
 have just this moment arrived. The mules are regu- 
 larly done up : mine and Fisk's cannot move. I shall 
 keep the things licrc till you come up. You will find it 
 two good days' march from Coom-Coom-Dema to this 
 place. The river B. spoke about is a beastly place ; 
 the water is bad, but you will be able to catch fish. 
 We caught some. Three of Barrakee's villagers are to 
 take the flour. I brought one of ours on, intending to 
 send him back, but it is impossible, for he is dead beat 
 and has been walking for twenty-four hours straight 
 off; he could never walk back sixty miles, for I quite
 
 1 8 2 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 think it is that from Coom-Coom-Derna. You will see 
 when you come. They will show you the way here. 
 How is your complaint, old man } I do trust it is all 
 right now. I cannot move from here, for I know 
 when the baggage comes up the donkeys will be com- 
 pletely done. They are bound to come on account of 
 the food. 
 
 " Friday, Feb. 26, 1. 30 P.M. 
 
 " They have just finished grinding and collecting 
 the flour. Our coolie is going after all. He is 
 anxious to make a dollar. If they are not with you 
 before sunset to-morrow (Saturday), they forfeit a 
 dollar. The money is with their Shum.* There is 
 enough for one hundred and sixty bread" (rations), 
 " also ten eggs. One of the bags that the flour is in 
 does not belong to us. We shall soon be all straight. 
 Barrakee is getting the rest of the flour." 
 
 Never was letter more acceptable, and especially as 
 with it had come the long-desired and looked-for 
 flour. Although H. had not long been away from 
 me, in the short time I had experienced a feeling of 
 loneliness as well as utter helplessness ; but it was no 
 good giving way to thoughts like these, as if my ser- 
 vants once saw any inclination on my part to despond, 
 I should never have been able to get anything done, 
 and they would have found out too soon that even 
 
 * Sfiiu?i is Amharic for a chief of several villages.
 
 SrOJi T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 8 3 
 
 the much-dreaded white man is at times dependent 
 upon help, even if it be from a nigger. On the whole, 
 I cannot complain of my servants, as they had much 
 to put up with. When one is ill, little anncn-anccs are 
 hard to bear, and I dare say at times I was thought 
 rather t}a'annical ; but it is very little use regretting 
 these things now, as there is not the remotest chance 
 of any of my natives reading what I have here written. 
 
 Feb. 28. — This was an uneventful day, and I felt 
 exceedingly weak and ill. It had become very much 
 cooler than it was in the two camps nearer the 
 Tackazzee, as the north wind blows towards the 
 evening and the mornings are quite cool. 
 
 Majxhi. — I find written in my journal: "Am, I 
 think, getting really better. I have shot one and a 
 half brace of little sand-grouse as they flew near the 
 tent in the morning. I went after the herd of harte- 
 beest that I had seen very often near the tent, on the 
 plain at the head of which I was encamped, but I 
 could not get near them. I succeeded to-day in very 
 nearly poisoning myself by mistaking one medicine 
 for another, for I took opium in mistake for some 
 other stuff. After I had discovered my error I swal- 
 lowed some brandy, went out for a walk, and told my 
 servants if they found me going to sleep to wake me 
 up." 
 
 March 2. — The opium seems to have done me good,
 
 1 84 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 as I find written in the journal that " I am decidedly 
 better, the symptoms of dysentery having partly gone 
 away." To-day I had great fun shooting a fine bull 
 hartebeest. This animal is about the size of an 
 Alderney cow. I was going out of my tent very early 
 in the morning when I saw the herd grazing not far 
 off" on the plain. I tried to stalk a bull which was 
 feeding behind the herd and on the nearest side to me, 
 but I failed. I then tried to stalk another, which was 
 more on the left of the herd, and which looked a very 
 big gentleman, and, I think, an old friend of mine, as I 
 had fired at him before. As I was creeping along, the 
 herd had closed up and passed not far off" on my 
 right. The bull that I had first tried to stalk was fol- 
 lowing. I missed him with both barrels of my 
 Express, and then I ran to the top of an ant-hill 
 and took aim at him with my heavy i2-bore rifle. 
 It was a very long shot ; the left barrel broke his hind- 
 leg just at the hock ; and now the hunt began. 
 
 I had come out of my tent with only my slippers on, 
 and in walking through the burnt grass of the plain 
 the short hard stubs were rather trying to my feet 
 with nothing but stockings on. The bull hartebeest 
 managed to go very nearly two miles ; he stopped on 
 several occasions and let me come close up to him. I 
 fired at him with my Express, and, as I thought, 
 missed him ; he then limped away again, but went
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 185 
 
 a good deal faster than one would suppose was pos- 
 sible. It was getting very hot, but I was determined 
 the brute should not beat me. I lost sight of him for 
 a little time among some trees ; when I got through 
 them I found he was trying to ascend a small hill. I 
 had two more cartridges of my heavy rifle, and tliese 
 I fired at him, and as he was waddling up the hill 
 the shot broke the fetlock-joint of his other hind- 
 leg. This stopped him, and Goubasee and myself 
 found him sitting up like a dog, close to a white-ant 
 hill. I had no knife with me and no cartridges, and I 
 did not know on earth what to do ; so Goubasee got 
 big stones and handed them up the ant-hill to me, as 
 I stood on the top and tried to smash his head in by 
 throwing them at him. He charged at me in a clumsy 
 way twice, when I was not on the ant-hill, and very 
 nearly caught me with his horns as I half tripped-up 
 in stepping back. I thought I would look in the car- 
 tridge-bag to see if I had completely run out of 
 ammunition : to my great joy I found one Express 
 cartridge ; so I put the beast out of his misery with 
 a shot behind the ear. 
 
 Guyndem, my other gunbearer, soon came up with 
 knives. The carcase was soon skinned and cut up, 
 and I sent back for two donkeys to carry the flesh 
 into camp; it made two heavy loads for the donkeys, 
 and the head and skin taxed the strencrth of the don-
 
 1 86 SPOR T IN AB YSSINIA. 
 
 key-driver as he carried it home. I found that the 
 animal had been hit by three bullets ; one of these was 
 a very curious shot : when I had fired at him with 
 tlie Express, and thought it was a miss, the bullet 
 had entered and exactly divided the hartebeest's tail 
 as he was galloping straight away from me. This 
 shot must have entered his entrails and stopped him 
 considerably ; the two other bullets were the shots 
 that broke the hock of one of his hind-legs and the 
 fetlock-joint of the other. There was great rejoicing 
 amongst the servants and donkey-drivers, who had 
 abundance to eat ; and three long strings of jerked 
 meat might be seen festooning the trees near camp. 
 They dried the meat on the leather thongs with which 
 the baggage was tied on the donkeys ; these thongs 
 were stretched from tree to tree. 
 
 I returned to camp completely done up ; and I do 
 not think the chase after the deer, under the hot sun, 
 did me very much good ; but still a little sport, when 
 you have been ill for some time, cheers you very much. 
 I had been trying to make little snares to catch small 
 birds with, and especially the doves, that came down 
 in great quantities to drink at the water-pools. It 
 was rather amusing to watch them on these occa- 
 sions, but they were far too wary to be caught by 
 such clumsy contrivances. 
 
 March 3. — Went out this morning to look for some
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. i ^7 
 
 gazelles, of wliich there are generally two or three in 
 a little patch of very high grass that escaped the fire 
 at the time the rest of the dry grass was burnt. I 
 saw a buck gazelle and fired both barrels of the 
 Express, and missed. I then went and stood on an 
 ant-hill in the middle of the patch of high grass ; two 
 does got up close under my feet and rushed awa}\ I 
 fired both barrels, and missed. The gazelle is by 
 no means an easy thing to hit with a rifle when it 
 is going fast, as it is very small. I was rather 
 disgusted with this bad shooting, and was walking 
 back to camp when up rose another buck. I fired one 
 barrel, and missed ; this shot seemed to turn him, and 
 he went away parallel to the direction I was going in, 
 offering a shoulder shot. I rolled him over with my 
 left barrel as he was cantering along ; he gave two 
 or three convulsive bounds, and, when I got up to 
 him, he was quite dead ; there is nothing like an 
 Express bullet for deadliness. Goubasee made a bag 
 of the skin, and I kept the head. 
 
 When I got back to camp I found that II. had sent 
 me some more provisions, and I also got a letter from 
 him, written on an envelope : — 
 
 Barrakee's Village, Sioiday, February 2?>tk. 
 
 " The coolies have just come back. I am very glad 
 you got the flour from the caravan — that was first- 
 rate ; but I am sorry you are not coming on yet. As
 
 1 88 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 for this village, it is a horrid place, and there is no- 
 thing to shoot within miles of it. It is up on a hill, 
 but is on the way to the Mareb ; and so to-morrow I 
 am going to start with Fisk, Barrakee, Brou, and three 
 or four coolies. I shall leave some behind for you, 
 and they will bring you on ; Barrakee is going to leave 
 a man to show you the way. I hope I shall have 
 better luck than on the Tackazzee. As for flour, I 
 cannot send you as much as I would, but still send a 
 good lot. We have hardly any empty bags. We sent 
 you three the other day ; but when you get here have 
 them filled up, and come down. I send a bundle of 
 letters down, addressed to the consul at Suez — will 
 you see that one coolie, if not two, takes them down 
 to Massowah, to catch the steamer on the 24th of 
 March, as it only takes nine days at the outside to 
 get from Coom-Coom-Dema to Massowah. Do send 
 them for me to Arrekel Bey, and ask him to post 
 them. I send them to you, as I know you will have 
 some letters to send too. I have no ink or paper left. 
 This is the last — and I am writing to you now with 
 gunpowder and milk, which does capitally. I am 
 fearfully sorry about you, and should come back if I 
 thought I could do any good ; but I know I really 
 could not. But I trust, old fellow, you will be all 
 right by the time you receive this. I shall not send 
 the flour off from here till daylight on Tuesday morn-
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 1 89 
 
 iiig, or if I can I will arrange for it to leave on 
 Monday (to-morrow) evening. They are working hard 
 now, grinding a dollar's worth for us to take ; and I 
 am sending you some honey, one bottle of brandy, 
 potatoes, onions, and some eggs. One donkey takes 
 the flour and two of our coolies. 
 
 Mo>iday moriii)ig, March \st. 
 
 " Your flour will leave this afternoon. Cassa here, 
 in charge of the baggage left behind. Shall be back 
 to-day fortnight ; but they will show you the way 
 down when they come. 
 
 " Ever yours, 
 
 " H." 
 
 I must explain to my readers that the Mareb which 
 H. talks of in this letter is the same river that we 
 were on before, he being many miles lower down its 
 course, in fact, much nearer the plains than where we 
 had been. 
 
 A large caravan with cotton from Walkait came by 
 to-day. The chief of the caravan came up to me as I 
 was seated outside my " das " loading some cartridges, 
 and paid his respects, commencing by making two very 
 low bows — nearly touching the ground with his head. 
 I gave him some powder which he begged for, and 
 asked him if he would give me a machet, which is a 
 Tigre word for a little sickle, which the natives use to
 
 190 SPORT IN ABYSSTNIA. 
 
 cut grass for their beasts ; and my servants were always 
 complaining that they had not one, and so they could 
 not manage to cut grass well for the donkeys. He 
 was exceedingly civil and good-natured, and took one 
 of my coolies on with him some little way on the 
 road, to the place where they were going to camp, 
 and sent him back with the machet. The chief told 
 me they had seen elephants as they had come up from 
 the Tackazzee, and also three or four of the Baria 
 tribe. His people, very bravely — as they were ten to 
 one — offered to fight the Baria ; but these niggers 
 were wise in their generation, and took to their heels 
 on seeing so large a party. The tail of the caravan 
 did not come up till nearly dark, and so camped for 
 the night about 150 yards from my tent. Just after 
 sunset, when I was going to eat my dinner, they 
 began a low-toned chant in which they all joined; it 
 was rather pretty and mournful. I asked Hadji 
 Mahomet, who was a Mahomedan, what it meant ; 
 he said it was " church ;" at least that was the inter- 
 pretation that Petros, my bearer, put upon his answer. 
 All these men who were singing were Abyssinian 
 Copts. I was much better in health this day. 
 
 March 4. — Instead of staying quietly at Coom- 
 Coom-Dema I thought that a change of air to the 
 other side of the plain would do me good. I had 
 seen a spring of water on my way here, and so in the
 
 SrOU T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 9 1 
 
 morning I sent out one of my servants to look for it. 
 He came back and said he had found it ; and so, in 
 the evening, just before sunset, I started for my new 
 camp. The servants were very annoying and they 
 would do nothing they were told. I fired mucli of the 
 dry grass of the plain, in hopes of burning the rest of it 
 bare in order that I might see more game, and I had a 
 long shot at a " tora," or hartebeest, on my way across. 
 When we got rather near the water where I was to 
 camp we happened to lose our way, and we were 
 wandering about for some time. Ali the cook pos- 
 sessed a mule, on which the tin-pots and kettle were 
 strapped ; the animal got frightened at the rattling of 
 the things on its back, and galloped away kicking and 
 plunging, sending the utensils flying in different direc- 
 tions, including my two plates and a large boiling-pot 
 that I used to make soup in, and also All's bedding ; 
 this, I am sure, he regretted a good deal more than 
 any of my things. He had bought this wretched 
 mule for 12 dollars at Adiaboo. This trip across made 
 me very ill, as all my arrangements went wrong, and 
 I did not get comfortably to bed until rather late. 
 
 Before I left Coom-Coom-Dema three wild-looking 
 men came into camp : they said they had come down 
 into the jungle to look for wild honey. They had a 
 small gourd filled with this stuff, for which they wanted 
 a dollar, and they were evidently very poor. They
 
 1 92 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 gave me as a present two large pear-shaped fruit with 
 a green velvety shell ; the inside Avas filled with seeds, 
 covered with a sort of white spongy pulp, which 
 was deliciously acid. The servants called this fruit 
 Habbaboo. I find Mansfield Parkyns says that this 
 fruit is called Dema, the scientific name being 
 Adansonia digitata. I gave these honey-hunters two 
 hanks of beads, with which they seemed very well 
 pleased. 
 
 March 5. — I was not nearly so well this morning, 
 having drunk some brandy and water the night 
 before. The rice-water which I . had been drinking 
 during my illness had been made at Coom-Coom- 
 Dcma before I started, but it was in one of the tin- 
 pots that galloped off on the back of All's mule. 
 The servants again put me up a capital " das," and it 
 was very dark and cool. The cook's mule was found 
 to-day, but minus the stock-pot and some plates. I 
 informed him I would shoot the brute if he did not go 
 out and find the plates, etc., and wonderful to relate, 
 they appeared in the evening all right, but rather bat- 
 tered. The mule had gone back to Coom-Coom-Dema, 
 and was found close to where we had before camped, 
 cropping the grass by the side of the water. I went 
 out in the evening and shot one of the little sand- 
 grouse for dinner as it came down to drink. I felt 
 very poorly, and almost too weak to walk about.
 
 SFOJ^T IN ABYSSINIA. 193 
 
 March 6. — Worse to-day. This horrid comphiint 
 sticks to me, symptoms of dysentery having returned. 
 I am afraid I must make up my mind to start for 
 home — a bad ending to a sporting expedition. I 
 shall have been ill now three weeks to-morrow. 1 
 took some chlorodyne last night, and I think it only 
 made me worse. 
 
 March 7. — I am much better this morning, having 
 taken three doses of opium, which acted instanta- 
 neously, thank goodness ! There was a thunder- 
 storm last night with two very heavy showers, 
 and the most beautiful sunset I ever saw ; great 
 masses of clouds coming up from the south-east, and 
 vivid lightning, and the thunder rolling and echoing 
 through the mountains ; it was a very grand sight. 
 I was kept awake part of last night by the howling of 
 a hyena, about ten yards from the tent. 1 thought 
 at first it was a lion, but the servants assured me it 
 was a gib, which is their word for hyena. He stopped 
 about a quarter of an hour, making a hideous noise, 
 and at last retired. There was a new moon to-day, 
 so I was in hopes there might be a change in the 
 weather, which would have done me much good : it 
 was a great deal cooler this morning, after the 
 thunder-storm. I made Goubasee administer a slight 
 castigation to Ali, the cook, who had neglected to 
 boil my rice-water the night before, and, as it was the 
 
 o
 
 1 94 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 only thing I had to drink, this was very disagreeable, 
 as it was brought to me for my breakfast almost 
 boiling hot and excessively nasty. It is needless to 
 say this mistake never occurred again. This was not 
 his first offence, and Ali, who was a Cairo man, was 
 rather inclined at times to be sulky, and not to do 
 anything ; but on the whole he was not a bad 
 servant.
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 195 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 AN INGENIOUS BED — EN ROUTE FOR THE COAST — A SAD PLIGHT — 
 UNPLEASANT TRAVELLING — FRIENDS — FORCIBLE PERSUASION — AN 
 AMUSING ENCOUNTER — AN ADVENTURE — I OPEN A BAZAAR — PRICES 
 — HOSPITALITY — HAGGLING — REINFORCEMENT — LETTERS FROM 
 HOME ^ A MISERABLE NIGHT— FALSE RUMOURS — I SELL TWO 
 DONKEYS — "HARD UP " — GEESE AND HORNBILLS— ILL-TIMED 
 THEFT — STRANGE QUARTERS — TOOTH-BRUSHES. 
 
 March 8. — I was very bad all last night ; I think I 
 had eaten too much meat at dinner. I am writing 
 my journal with a pen made out of a guinea-fowl 
 quill, and with ink composed of some gunpowder, pre- 
 served milk and water, mixed up together — rather a 
 curious combination. My little camp bed is so small 
 that I asked Mahomet, my bearer, if he could make 
 me any sort of bed rather bigger. He said, " I make 
 bed Abyssinian fashion .'*" and I replied "Yes." He 
 set to work, with the help of Goubasee and Guyndem, 
 to make an inchat algar, which is their word for a 
 wooden bed. They cut four short forked poles and 
 stuck them upright in the ground ; the holes they put 
 them into were grubbed out with the iron tent pegs.
 
 196 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 They then tied sticks on to the four posts, so as to 
 make a sort of hollow oblong. These sticks were 
 tied with plaited bark or fibre. Inside, these oblong 
 sticks were lashed both to the foot and head of the 
 bed. Of course such a bed can be made of any 
 height and any length. They then cut a quantity of 
 dry grass and laid it across the frame, and my rugs 
 spread over the dry grass made an excellent, comfort- 
 able, springy couch. I should think such beds would 
 be very good for impromptu hospitals on a cam- 
 paign, using hay or straw instead of grass ; they are 
 exceedingly warm and well ventilated. It took 
 about two hours and a half for four servants to do the 
 whole thing ; that is, for cutting the wood and grass, 
 grubbing the holes, tying the sticks, and completing it. 
 
 I have determined to start for home, as I get no 
 better here. I am indeed an unlucky sportsman, and 
 I always was. Perhaps it is all for the best. I do 
 not know what H. will say to this. I went out for a 
 little walk on the plain yesterday, and saw the herd 
 of hartebeest in the distance, but I did not feel up to 
 stalking them. 
 
 AlarcJi 9. — I am a little better to-day, and the pro- 
 visions I sent for to Barrakee's village have arrived all 
 safe ; so I start for Azho, a large frontier village, to- 
 day. I hope to catch the steamer which I believe leaves 
 Massowah for Suez about the 24th of March. To-day
 
 SFOI^ T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 97 
 
 I shot a large bare-necked vulture, which was hovering 
 over the camp last evening, and I am writing my 
 journal with one of its quills, as Petros, in sweeping out 
 my " das," chanced to lose my guinea-fowl pen. The 
 vulture I thought to be a bird of ill-omen, and so 
 knocked him dow n. In the evening I went out close to 
 the water and shot one of the sand-grouse which came 
 to drink, but it was so dark I could not find the bird. 
 No one can have any idea how miserable it is to be 
 sick in the bush, away from everybody and everything 
 — no one to speak to but your servant, who generally 
 talks the vilest of negro English. However, I was 
 homeward-bound to-day, my servants having made 
 me a rough sort of palanquin, in which I intended to be 
 carried, as I meant to try and avoid either walking or 
 riding. I hoped to get fresh eggs, milk, and chickens 
 at the village of Azho, which might improve me ; as 
 in reality it was good food that I wanted. I had sent 
 on some of my baggage with Guyndem and another 
 servant, and with orders to build me a " das " at Azho, 
 and let the people know that I was coming. I pro- 
 posed to stop half-way on the road at Maidarou. 
 
 March lO. — I had an awful journey on the previous 
 night. I started from the other side of the plain of 
 Coom-Coom-Dema at five o'clock by my little sun- 
 dial, and got to Maidarou, our old camping-place, about 
 9 P.M. Of course I could not say if this time was
 
 198 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 correct ; it struck me as being a good deal later, 
 Taiou, one of our coolies — a man who had been with 
 an Englishman named Flood that had lived in the 
 country some time before — lost the donkey on which 
 my bed was strapped, just before we came into camp. 
 It was very dark when we came to Maidarou, and 
 Goubasee, who was carrying my palanquin, and who 
 was in front, tumbled into a hole and shot me 
 and my gun and books on to the ground. This was 
 rather unpleasant, considering the state of health I 
 was in, but there was no alternative but to get up and 
 laugh and go on. At last I saw the twinkling light of a 
 fire, and I soon found myself at the top of the little rocky 
 hill where we had camped before. But although I had 
 arrived at the halting-place there was no bed for me 
 to sleep on ; so I bade them put all the skin bags I 
 had with me down at the end of the tent, then 
 I put some big stones alongside, and covered the 
 whole with some dry cut grass. This made a capital 
 bed, and I slept better than I had done for the last 
 two weeks, as I was completely tired and done up. 
 Curiously enough, the caravan that afforded me some 
 flour when my servants were almost starving had just 
 arrived, on their way back to Adiaboo with cotton from 
 Walkait. Zaroo, the man who behaved so kindly to 
 me before and gave me some bread of his own, said, 
 as I was so ill, he would induce some of the people of
 
 SFO£ T IN ABYSSINIA. 1 99 
 
 the caravan to cany me in my palanquin. 1 here 
 wrote my journal lying on my bags and straw under 
 the shade of two beautiful trees, a luxury one appre- 
 ciates in this hot climate. I am much better, 1 think, 
 to-day. 
 
 That afternoon I started for Azho ; the chief of the 
 caravan, by threats and persuasions, making his people 
 carry me. I was jolted along somehow or other ; and 
 the journey was not eventful, with one exception. One 
 old gentleman declined the honour of carrying me, 
 and made a great row. I found myself and my palan- 
 quin placed on the ground, with every prospect of 
 being left there. I said, if they would not take me 
 on to the next camping-place I would shoot them, and 
 I let off my revolver in the air, but still the old native 
 refused to take up the burden, and told the other 
 people not to carry me. I here leaped up and knocked 
 him backwards with " one in the eye ;" he tripped up 
 over his load of cotton, that he had placed down be- 
 side him, and turned a complete summersault. The 
 rest, seeing what had become of him, and being rather 
 astonished at a sick man getting well enough to do 
 this, picked up me and my palanquin and carried 
 me off. It was getting late, and the men carrying me 
 were going very slow, so I rode the mule belonging to 
 Ali the cook, for a little way, but found I should not 
 be able to get to Azho that night, and I stopped at
 
 200 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 some water half-way. I was better, so I told the chief 
 I would not bother him or bis people to carry me any 
 farther ; and he came the last thing in the evening to 
 say good-bye to me, as they were going to start at 
 daybreak. 
 
 Last night Ali and Mahomet had a difference of 
 opinion about an order I had given with regard to 
 some food. One of them had told a lie, and they both 
 accused each other of lying. I said I could not 
 allow this, as nothing would be done if things went 
 on in this sort of way \ so, in the morning, after the 
 caravan had gone on, I said they were to settle their 
 dispute with two sticks. I made Goubasee cut two 
 long sticks, and the scene which ensued beat anything 
 I ever saw. They were so frightened of each other 
 that neither of them dared at first to hit very hard, 
 but at length, when either of them did so, the other 
 flinched most dreadfully and then returned the blow 
 with compound interest. When one blow was harder 
 than another a yell in proportion followed its inflic- 
 tion. I made myself quite ill with laughing at them, 
 and the servants were in convulsions too. At last they 
 begged of me to let them off; and so I said they 
 ought to be satisfied with each other now. 
 
 March 1 1. — Started for Aziio in the afternoon, riding 
 All's mule, and, after a tiring march, I came in sight 
 of the village at sunset. Some of the villagers, who
 
 SrOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 20 1 
 
 had heard I was coming up, came out to meet me and 
 say " How do you do ?" I found that Guyndem, whom 
 I had sent on, had not built a " das," as the people 
 would not lend him any tools for making it, or give 
 him any assistance. I went straight up to a cluster of 
 houses, and said I should pitch my tent inside the 
 hedge which surrounded them. The people were very 
 civil at first, and brought some milk. I asked them to 
 give me some dry grass, which they used for thatching 
 their houses, to put on an ajigarcb which they had lent 
 me.* I was in great pain at the time, and was very 
 much annoyed at their not bringing this grass, so I 
 sprang up with my revolver in my hand. Before 
 going any farther I must tell the reader that the ad- 
 venture which followed nearly cost me my life, and it 
 was all owing to my own foolishness. It is a great 
 mistake to flash your weapons if you really do not 
 mean to use them. I ran down among some houses 
 where my servants were talking trying to persuade 
 the people to give me some dried grass, and said if 
 they did not give me some I would shoot them. It 
 was getting rather dark, and I fired my revolver off in 
 the air. The women screamed, and in a minute 
 the whole village was up in arms. Some of the men 
 
 * Angareb is an Arabic word for an oblong framework raised on 
 legs ; a network of raw hide is stretched on the frame, and the whole 
 forms the sort of bed that is used nearly all over the East.
 
 202 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 had spears, and the others guns : they completely sur- 
 rounded me, and one seized me by the wrist and 
 tried to drag me off. I snatched myself out of his 
 grasp and backed against a straw hut. Another man 
 kept pointing at me with a loaded gun about a foot 
 off my head, calling me s/iifter — which means robber. 
 At this moment a very tall Abyssinian pushed his 
 way through the crowd and came up to me, putting 
 his hand over his mouth, which was to give me to un- 
 derstand that I was to hold my tongue and not make 
 a noise. He took me by the hand and led me away, 
 the crowd hooting and shouting at me. One fellow ran 
 in front and aimed his spear at me, but the tall Abys- 
 sinian, who seemed to be my friend, raised his spear, 
 and the fellow took to his heels. As is very often the 
 case with most of these disputes, it all ended in smoke. 
 I got the straw for my bed after all, and went to sleep. 
 They came to me and told me I must take my tent 
 outside their village, but I replied that I would not 
 move it, and that it did no harm there ; so it stopped 
 there for the night. 
 
 March 12. — To-day I made Petros sit outside the 
 door of the big round Abyssinian hut that I had taken 
 possession of during the heat of the day and " make 
 bazaar," as he calls it ; that is to say, he took my 
 handkerchiefs and beads and red cloth which I had 
 with me, and exchanged them for chickens and eggs,
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINJjf. 20: 
 
 of which I was in great need. It may interest some of 
 my readers to know what the rate of exchange was : 
 one Manchester cotton pocket-handkerchief for one 
 chicken and six eggs. The haggling and bargaining 
 over these important mercantile transactions was very 
 amusing, but Petros seemed up to everything ; in fact, 
 his usual occupation was that of a merchant in the 
 bazaar at Suez. In the afternoon the man who had 
 pointed the gun at me and called me a robber came to 
 pay me a visit. I asked why he had called me a robber. 
 He said that when he heard the shot fired, the people 
 told him I had shot his brother. He had brought me 
 half a large pumpkin as a sort of peace-offering. I said 
 to him, if he would bring me a whole one I would give 
 him a red pocket-handkerchief. He went away and 
 fetched a large pumpkin, and I gave him a red hand- 
 kerchief, and then told him I was not accustomed to 
 be called a robber, and that, although I w^as very sick, 
 if he would get two thick sticks I would go outside 
 the village with him and give him an excellent 
 thrashing. My friend sneaked off at this, and another 
 Abyssinian, who was standing by, seemed much 
 amused. I had not got rid of the horrid complaint 
 that troubled me, and I was afraid that dysentery had 
 set in in earnest. I sent back a coolie from here to 
 H., with a letter to say that I had really started for 
 the coast. I heard no more of him till I cot to
 
 204 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 England ; the account of the sport he had I give 
 hereafter. 
 
 Towards the evening I started for Adikai, a village 
 u^e had camped in before. The man who had ac- 
 cused me of shooting his brother and called me a 
 robber came to say good-bye to me, and we parted 
 the best of friends. I tried to find out who the tall 
 Abyssinian was who had helped me out of the 
 scrape and had taken me by the hand and led me 
 through the crowd, but he had disappeared, and no 
 one knew who or where he was ; I believe he was 
 a king's soldier who was stationed here to collect 
 the customs. I had an easy march to Adikai, and 
 when I got to the village my servants told me that 
 Zaroo, my old friend the chief of the caravan, who 
 had made his people carry my palanquin, lived close 
 by. Shortly afterwards he came to see me, and 
 brought me some Dargousa beer, which had been 
 kept for some time and which was pretty good. I 
 was kept awake half the night by the barking of the 
 village curs : at last, at my entreaties, some ballagas 
 turned out and tried to stop them, but it was of no 
 use. A crying baby in a hut close by also enlivened 
 the night by its yells ; so I sent to the mother of 
 the child and told her to give it some milk, which 
 seemed to quiet it. 
 
 MarcJi 13. — The people of this village were much
 
 SFO£T IN ABYSSINIA. 205 
 
 more cival to me, and one of two men who had be- 
 haved very well at Azho, and who had come up with me, 
 sent off to a village close by and got me twelve eggs. 
 The Abyssinians, curiously enough, do not care for 
 eggs ; they sometimes make a sort of curry of them 
 with red pepper. After this man brought me the 
 eggs, which was early in the morning, he went on to 
 Adiaboo, where it was market-day. Zaroo came to 
 me this morning, and I talked with him over my 
 journey to the coast, as he knew the road very well. 
 He told me he was acquainted with a much nearer 
 way to Koudoofellassie than that I had come by, and I 
 asked him if he would come with me to show it : at 
 first he said he would, and then he asked me what 
 I would give him. I only had five dollars with me, 
 so it was of very little use offering him that. I said I 
 would give him a revolver ; but he told me this would 
 be of no use to him. What he really wanted was one 
 of my muzzle-loading pistols, of which I had a pair 
 of very good one.s, which I had bought of Rigby in 
 St. James's Street, and which I particularly did not 
 want to part with. After haggling with him a long 
 time I was quite disappointed, as he had at first assured 
 me he did not want anything for showing me the 
 way. I then told him I would trust to myself and 
 go back the same way I had come, and thanked 
 him for his former kindness.
 
 206 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 I sent on the donkeys with the tent to Maihumloo, a 
 little river where we had camped before, at the end of 
 the Sememmar Plain, meaning to go on in the after- 
 noon. I tried at this village to get two men to carry 
 some of my things, but they asked a great deal 
 too much, and so we could not come to terms. On 
 my way to Adiaboo, Goubasee stopped an old man, 
 and his wife and daughter, and asked the old gentle- 
 man if he would help to carry the load Goubasee 
 had with him. The old patriarch asked where we 
 were going to ; Goubasee replied Sememmar, and that 
 he would get a dollar if he carried the load ; upon 
 which, without a moment's hesitation, notwithstanding 
 the entreaties of his wife and daughter, he picked up 
 the load and carried it along. His daughter then 
 began to cry, and said she would not leave him, so 
 they both joined our little party. This was a great 
 piece of luck for me, as it relieved Goubasee of a large 
 part of his load. 
 
 The market was just over as I passed through 
 Adiaboo. I tried to find some man to guide me 
 the short way of which Zaroo had told me, but 
 none of them would go, as they said it was a bad 
 road, the stages were long, and there was very 
 little water. While I was talking to these people a 
 young man came up and said that he had letters 
 for Rass ]\Iayo, which was the name I went by in
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 207 
 
 Abyssinia ; upon which my servants told him he was 
 to give them to me immediately. This was the man 
 that the head of the Mahomedan village had sent off 
 with my letters. He had sent them by the steamer 
 and had brought me back letters from home. I was 
 delighted to get them, and for the rest of my march 
 across the large plain which lies between Adiaboo 
 and Sememmar I occupied myself in reading the good 
 news from home. I had miscalculated the distance 
 from Adiaboo to Maihumloo ; it was a great deal too 
 far, and we had started late, having been delayed in 
 the market-place. I was getting more and more ex- 
 hausted, and it was rapidly becoming dark. Just as 
 night closed in a thunder-storm came on, Goubasee, 
 who had been our guide, completely lost his way, and I 
 was dreadfully ill and weary, so we had to stop in the 
 middle of the jungle. I managed with great diffi- 
 culty to light a fire, and make a little soup out of 
 Liebig's extract of meat. The poor girl that had 
 accompanied her father, who was carrying some of 
 my baggage, had sprained her ankle, or sustained 
 a similar injury, and it was a miserable sight to see 
 her sitting shivering over the fire and crying piteously 
 with pain. I also suffered very much from illness 
 all night. 
 
 March 14. — At last morning came, and I deter- 
 mined to move on to Maihumloo the first thing, in hopes
 
 2o8 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 of finding the donkeys with the tent and some food. 
 Some travellers came by, whom my servants rushed 
 at and despoiled of some of the bread they had with 
 them ; thus at any rate my retinue ate some breakfast. 
 I stopped at some houses, which were only a very 
 short way from the place where we had lain out for 
 the night, but during and after the thunder-storm it 
 had been so dark that we could not see around us. 
 The inhabitants of these huts gave me some eggs, 
 which provided material for my breakfast. When I 
 got to Maihumloo there was no sign of either tent or 
 donkeys, which had gone on before us, so I stayed in 
 the dry bed of a watercourse that was very plea- 
 santly shaded over. I succeeded in making a fire and 
 cooking my eggs for breakfast, and sent Goubasee off 
 to look for the donkeys. He seemed to think that 
 they had gone on in front of us to the village of 
 Sememmar, so he went up there to look for them, and 
 returned without having found them ; but shortly 
 afterwards they all appeared. Hadji Mahomet, who 
 had charge of them, had taken good care not to 
 sleep out in the jungle like ourselves, but had halted 
 in a village not far off and stayed there for the 
 night. I sent them on, in the afternoon, to Sememmar, 
 and from thence they were to go on to Zadawalka. 
 
 After the heat of the day, and when I had rested 
 myself by lying in the shade, I started after the
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 209 
 
 tent and donkeys. I called at the house of the 
 chicker of the village of Scniemmar, told him who I 
 was, and said that I wanted some chickens and eggs ; 
 he was very civil, and gave them to me at once 
 without any palaver. I asked him if he knew of any 
 news in the country, and I was told that they had 
 heard that Mimleck, the king of Shoa, with whom 
 the king of Abyssinia was at war, had fought and 
 beaten Johannes, the king : I heard afterwards there 
 was no truth in this. Again I travelled on, and, after 
 having passed the place where the market of Se- 
 memmar is held, I came upon Hadji Mahomet and the 
 donkeys, with the tent pitched and everything ready. 
 He told me it would be impossible to go on to Zada- 
 walka that day, so I resolved to stop here, as 
 everything w^as comfortable and there was plenty to 
 eat. Our encampment was just below a pretty little 
 Abyssinian church, which was surrounded by large 
 Oualqual trees. Most of the churches here are built 
 in little groves of these queer-shaped trees. 
 
 March 15. — I went to bed shortly after I got into 
 camp last night, and this morning I found myself 
 better, yet still very ill. I think I must have lost at 
 least a stone in weight, having become dreadfully thin. 
 It was very pleasant to wake up and find oneself in a 
 comfortable little camp-bed, instead of being chilled 
 and cold lying by the half-consumed sticks of a small
 
 2 1 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 camp fire, my experience of the previous day. Two 
 donkeys were completely worn out, so the servants 
 recommended me to sell them here for what I could 
 get. Some of the villagers standing near were informed 
 that I had donkeys for sale ; we had a short bargain 
 over the matter, and at last the two went for four 
 dollars. My fortune, that was to last me until I got 
 to Massowah, where lOo/. was awaiting me, now con- 
 sisted of seven dollars, and, as my readers will see 
 later, I experienced great inconvenience in conse- 
 quence of not having more money with me. 
 
 In the afternoon, having first started the remaining 
 donkeys in front, I went up to the village of Zada- 
 walka. It was a long march, but very pleasant and 
 cool, the day being cloudy, and the country we were 
 travelling through furnished a succession of beautiful 
 scenes. There was a heavy thunder-shower in the 
 middle of the day, which soaked us through. On the 
 way I had a shot with my Express at a jackal which 
 crossed the path, but I could not succeed in hitting so 
 small an animal with a bullet. Just after the rain 
 had ceased, we crossed a small stream ; Goubasee, 
 who was in front of me, suddenly stopped, and I saw 
 swimming slowly up the little river two fine geese. 
 I jumped off my mule, got my i6-bore gun, fired, 
 and killed the gander. A cartridge which had some 
 time previously stuck in one of the barrels of my
 
 SPOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 2 1 1 
 
 gun obliged mc to load again, and after my first 
 shot the goose only flew a short way up the river and 
 dropped, when I bagged her too. These were two 
 lucky shots, as they provided me with fresh meat, of 
 which I stood in great need. Not long before I ar- 
 rived at the village of Zadawalka I saw five enormous 
 hornbills feeding in a field close to the path. They 
 are called in Abyssinia Aba Gouma. They were an 
 unusual sight stalking about in different directions, 
 and picking up what insects and beetles they could 
 find. 
 
 When I got to Zadawalka I rode up at once to the 
 Shum's house. I went in and introduced myself, and 
 said I wanted bread and lodging for our party that 
 night. By way of putting ourselves on a pleasant 
 footing with our new hosts, my followers, who I am 
 sorry to say had now become rather a rough set, 
 seeing a jar of beer standing close by, immediately 
 seized it, handed it round, and the thirsty souls 
 swalloAved the beverage almost before the rightful 
 owner had time to look about. The people of the 
 house assured me I could not stop there that night, 
 but said they would provide me with a house a 
 little way off. I made them swear by the king's 
 death, Johannesee Mut, which is the form of oath 
 in Abyssinia, that they would do what they pro- 
 mised. The donkeys and tent did not appear, so I
 
 2 1 2 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 had to sleep in an Abyssinian hut, where I could 
 see the moon shining through the roof, and insects 
 and creeping things paid me unwelcome visits. The 
 door of this hut was so low that entrance had to be 
 effected on the hands and knees. Notwithstanding 
 all these little inconveniences, I managed to sleep 
 pretty well, after a good dinner made of the two 
 geese's livers, which were both large and excellent, and 
 brought to mmd pate de foie gr as — without truffles. 
 
 March i6. — This morning I was not troubled with 
 the very violent pain which I usually experienced, 
 and altogether I felt in better condition. I asked the 
 chief of the village if he could give me two coolies to 
 guide our party as far as Gundet, as I proposed 
 adopting a new and shorter route, which would save a 
 day's march. He at length found two men, who for 
 two dollars each were to go with me ; one dollar each 
 I had to pay before they started, and the balance was 
 to be given them on arrival. The villagers brought 
 up plenty of fresh eggs for breakfast — they were the 
 only things which really seemed to agree with me. 
 A great crowd of Abyssinians watched me as I 
 got up in the morning and performed my toilet : 
 what seemed to excite their attention most was the 
 operation of washing my teeth with a tooth-brush 
 and some charcoal. They could not make out what 
 I could possibly be doing, as their mode of cleaning
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 2 1 3 
 
 their teeth is by chewing a stick and rubbing their 
 grinders with the frayed end. About eleven o'clock I 
 started for Adavartee. This village is only one day's 
 march from Adowa ; in fact, from Adavartee you 
 can see the peculiarly-shaped conical-pointed hill 
 which marks the neighbourhood of the Abyssinian 
 capital. Before reaching Adavartee I stopped at a 
 house on the road which was tenanted by very civil 
 people, who brought my servants beer to drink. Petros 
 cooked some eggs and bacon for my lunch, after 
 which we rested a little while and then went on. We 
 were unable to reach Adavartee at all, but were 
 obliged to stop at a village called Adoqual. The 
 donkeys, with the tent, came up just before it was 
 dark, and, instead of my having to sleep in the village, 
 I moved to the tent outside, and slept comfortabl}- 
 there. The geese were roasted for dinner, and proved 
 capital food.
 
 214 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 CHAPTER XII, 
 
 SELF-HELP — SCARCITY OF PROVISIONS — LAID-UP AGAIN — A RKUNION 
 — HOSPITALITY — AN OLD FRIEND — AN ALARM— ORDER OF BATTLE 
 — A FIELD DAY — "'KIND ENQUIRIES" — OLIVES AND OIL — PUR- 
 CHASE OF A CLUB — CATTLE PLAGUE — AN INJUDICIOUS DINNER — 
 MY ILLNESS INCREASES — I HAVE TO BE CARRIED — LUXURY OF A 
 WASH— I BUILD A HOUSE — THE SEA — CIVILIZATION AGAIN. 
 
 March 17. — I occupied myself this morning in 
 cleaning up my guns and pistols, which had not been 
 looked at for the last three or four days. This was a 
 long, tiring affair, but I recommend all who are 
 similarly circumstanced to look to their fire-arms 
 themselves, unless they have a trustworthy European 
 servant with them, as natives always manage to do 
 everything contrariwise, and spoil the very best 
 weapons. I was now much better in health, but 
 still I suffered from bad diarrhoea. I started for 
 Gundet late in the afternoon ; the consequence being 
 that, as it was a long march, we lost our way. 
 Petros and Guyndem, whom I had sent up to some 
 villages to try to get eggs or chickens for my dinner 
 that night, happened to lose us completely, as we
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 2 1 5 
 
 were crossing the valley of the Mareb through a 
 thick jungle. We crossed the dry bed of the river near 
 which, only much lower down, we had previously en- 
 camped ; darkness came on as we pushed through the 
 jungle, and we were overtaken by a thunder-storm in 
 the same way we had been before, and we were com- 
 pelled to halt, as it had become pitch dark. We 
 succeeded in lighting a fire, but I had literally nothing 
 to eat, as Petros was carrying the few provisions of 
 which I was possessed ; the only thing in the shape of 
 food that I had was a bag of corn for my mule. I 
 made Goubasee roast some corn in the camp fire ; 
 this he picked out of the ashes, and it constituted my 
 dinner. These hardships would have been bad enough 
 to bear if I had been well, but in my weak state of 
 health they were very trying. I was terribly ill all 
 night, and very cold, as I had nothing to cover me but 
 a cotton shama which I had bought for a dollar at the 
 village of Zadawalka, and, in the morning, I was 
 scarcely able to move. Another night like this would, 
 I think, have finished me, and my tale would have 
 been unwritten. 
 
 March 18. — When daylight dawned my servants 
 went up to some houses, which, although close by, in 
 the darkness we had not been able to see. Petros and 
 Guyndem appeared the first thing this morning, having 
 passed the night in the valley of the Mareb, in the
 
 2 1 6 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 jungle; Petros assured me he slept very little, as he 
 was afraid the lions would eat him. The natives, who 
 had heard I was ill, very kindly brought some milk 
 and eggs. We were close to a village called Aila 
 Mareb, and I determined, after about an hour or so, 
 to push on to Gundet, so as to complete the march 
 that I had intended to do the day before. I was so 
 bad I could scarcely sit on my mule, but at length we 
 arrived at Gundet. I lay here under a tree for most 
 of the day, completely exhausted and worn out, and 
 I managed to get a little sleep. During most of the 
 day the tree which I was under w'as surrounded by 
 great numbers of cattle, w'hich seemed to think I 
 was occupying their favourite resting-place : there was 
 water close by. They w^ere remarkably fine beasts 
 for this part of the world, and I should think at least 
 a thousand head passed by the place where I was 
 lying. A little short Abyssinian came and squatted 
 down close by me ; he seemed inclined to converse, 
 so I sent for Petros, and we held a long conversation 
 on different subjects, which ended by my inducing 
 him to go for some preparation which is called Shirou, 
 and is made from a bean pounded up with red pepper. 
 The Abyssinians eat this as a sort of relish with their 
 bread or meat. I do not suppose it was the best thing 
 I could have eaten, but still I had a fancy for it, as 
 in illness one often has for some questionable dainty.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 2 1 7 
 
 While I was lying under the tree a rather nicely- 
 dressed Abyssinian came up, followed by a couple of 
 loaded mules and two servants. Petros rushed up to 
 him and embraced him. I asked who he was, and 
 Petros replied, " It is my brother, whom I have not 
 seen for many years." I believe, in reality, it was his 
 step-brother. He was a merchant, who had come 
 from the Shoa country, and was going down to 
 Massowah with musk and gold. 
 
 Since writing the above there has taken place in 
 this very spot, Gundet, a very severe battle between 
 the Egyptians and Abyssinians, and I cannot help 
 thinking that it was owing to the nature and con- 
 formation of the ground that the forces of Egypt, 
 2000 in number, were so completely overwhelmed 
 and destroyed by their enemies. Before reaching 
 Gundet, that is to say, on the road from Massowah, 
 tlie country is all flat table-land, when suddenly the 
 ground drops, and Gundet lies in a narrow valley, 
 with high cliffs on each side of it. An army march- 
 ing right down into this defile would easily be sur- 
 rounded, and its retreat cut off. Probably the Abys- 
 sinians let the Egyptians descend the steep hill, and 
 then encountered them, when the only thing remain- 
 ing for the invaders to do was to fight it out to the 
 last. But it seems incredible to me that a force of 
 2000 should march right into the jaws of an enemy
 
 2 1 8 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 without seemingly having the least intimation of their 
 being near. The Abyssinians are stated to have 
 mustered 30,000 strong, and I am sure my old friend 
 Kirkham would have taken every advantage of the 
 locality and the ground. The hatred of the Abys- 
 sinians to the Turk, as they call the Egyptians, was in 
 this case very well exemplified, as nearly every one 
 of the latter was killed, and among them Arrekel Bey, 
 whose loss, as a kind friend, I very much deplore and 
 lament, for nobody could have been more civil and 
 courteous than he was when we were at Massowah. 
 
 I cannot help here quoting a letter of mine, dated 
 May 7th, 1875, published in the 'Pall Mall Gazette' 
 shortly after my arrival in England. At the end of 
 the letter I state what I thought would happen if 
 Egyptians and Abyssinians came in conflict in the 
 country of the latter, and it turns out my prognos- 
 tication has not been falsified by events : — 
 
 " Having only just returned to England from travel- 
 ling in Abyssinia, I happened to see a letter copied 
 from the ' Cologne Gazette,' and commented on in 
 your paper of the 13th of April last. The corre- 
 spondent of the ' Cologne Gazette ' must be misin- 
 formed, I think, on some of the subjects he writes 
 about. First, the writer designates King Johannes, 
 the king of Abyssinia, ' as but a poor actor by the
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 2 1 9 
 
 side of a real hero,' i.e., comparing him with Theodore, 
 the late king. King Johannes has totally subjugated 
 his country and the rebels that were in it. The people 
 cultivate their land in peace, and tranquillity prevails. 
 As for his subjects being in a state of chronic rebel- 
 lion, it is not the case ; let any one who doubts this 
 travel through the country, and judge for himself. 
 Secondly, the ' Cologne Gazette ' says, with regard to 
 Colonel Kirkham, 'that all his attempts to improve 
 the country have failed.' Now, as every one knows, 
 with nothing, nothing can be done. Colonel Kirkham 
 was living with me for a month, and has often told 
 me the first thing to be done in Abyssinia is to make 
 and improve the roads. He has often tried to per- 
 suade King Johannes to do this, but the king will not 
 spend a farthing and keeps his money hoarded up. 
 Thirdly, with regard to the missionaries at Gindar, 
 it is so far true that General Kirkham, to whom 
 Gindar has been given by the king, allowed the mis- 
 sionaries to build a house there. I never heard any- 
 thing of the Abyssinians threatening to kill the mis- 
 sionaries and burn their houses. I passed through 
 Gindar myself on the 25th of March last ; the mission- 
 aries' house was standing still, but the missionaries had 
 left, one of their number having died of fever after the 
 rains, so they moved to a healthier place, f'ourthly, 
 the article now ends by saying that ' a struggle of the
 
 220 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 undisciplined and badly-armed Abyssinians with 
 Egyptian troops would be hopeless.' Now, the Egyp- 
 tians would have to fight through mountain passes 
 and hills — a warfare well suited to Abyssinian tactics, 
 and not one that Egyptian troops would either appre- 
 ciate or well understand. The Abyssinians are just 
 as well armed as the Afghans were when we fought 
 against them on the frontiers of India. The name of 
 the Turk is hated in Abyssinia, and used as an 
 epithet of opprobrium." 
 
 In the afternoon I started on the road to Ad- 
 goosmou, and climbed the abruptly steep hill at 
 the top of which, if my readers remember, Borum 
 Braswouldeselassie took leave of us. The table- 
 land on which I found myself is called Serai, and 
 is celebrated for its fertility. I travelled on, and 
 stopped by some water, a little way beyond the 
 village of Adv/ahla. The servants were rather an- 
 noyed at stopping away from the village, as there 
 was not any shelter near, and I had only just erected 
 the tent when a fearful thunder-storm came down on 
 us ; luckily, my bed and things were inside, and so 
 everything was all dry, but the wretched servants got 
 wet through and through, and it was with great 
 difficulty that Ali kindled a fire with cattle-dung for 
 fuel, as no sticks or wood could be got anywhere near.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 2 2 1 
 
 March 19. — This morning Goubasec was laid up with 
 a bad leg, which I thought proceeded from rheumatism 
 combined with hard work. I hoped he would not 
 break down altogether, as he was an excellent servant, 
 and he had been of the greatest use to me. I sent 
 Guyndem, my other gun-bearer, up to the neighbour- 
 ing village, and some villagers very kindly brought 
 brown bread and milk, for myself and my followers. 
 This was very hospitable of them, as, on most occa- 
 sions, villagers took no notice of messages brought by 
 one's Abyssinian servants, and it was very often with 
 great difficulty we got provisions even by applying in 
 person. To-day several caravans passed the camp on 
 their way down to the coast. These caravans are just 
 beginning to travel ; but it is during the rains that 
 most of them go through the country, so as to arrive 
 at Massowah in June or July, at the time it is 
 hottest on the coast, and when most of the business 
 is transacted. 
 
 I started after breakfast for Koudoofellassie, and 
 arrived at nightfall at the door of Borum Bras.'s 
 house ; I found himself and household all at dinner. 
 This was a time of fasting with the Abyssinians, when 
 they do not eat during the day, but only after sunset. 
 I had sent on word by a native, who said he was going 
 to Koudoofellassie, to tell Borum Bras, that I was 
 coming, but evidently the man had not delivered the
 
 222 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 message, and I was not in the least expected. But it 
 seemed that I was no unwelcome guest, for directly 
 one of the servants saw me he went in and told Borum 
 Bras. I had arrived. I was led in by the hand, and 
 was truly glad to see this Abyssinian chief, as he had 
 been very kind and hospitable to us on our way to 
 the Tackazzee, and I hoped he might help me to get 
 to the coast. After they had finished their dinner, he 
 sent away his household, and had a fire lighted for me 
 inside the hut. I was wet through, cold as well as 
 ill, and was very glad of the warmth. I told Borum 
 Bras, all that happened, how unlucky I had been, and 
 that now I was on my way home on account of illness. 
 He was exceedingly civil and kind, and asked what he 
 could prepare for me for my dinner. Out of beans 
 his wife made me a sort of cake, which was very good, 
 and he also gave me some "tej." My donkeys, with 
 the tent, etc., came up later, but I resolved to sleep in 
 the hut in which I was. I accordingly turned in, but 
 it was of no use trying to get any rest, as the hut in 
 which I reposed was, as a rule, not only used as a 
 dining-room but also as a stable, and the horses 
 munching their food during the night kept me awake. 
 Sundry small animals of the insect tribe seemed to 
 like the taste of the blood of a white man ; it might 
 have been a change for them ; it certainly was a 
 change for me, and, in my already weak state, unbear-
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 223 
 
 able ; so, about one o'clock in the morning, I made my 
 servants get up and pitch my tent, and there I went 
 to bed, and slept well the rest of the night. 
 
 March 20. — This morning Boruni Bras, got me a 
 messenger, and I sent down letters to the French 
 Consul, as well as to the Governor of Massowah, 
 telling the latter that I was ill, very likely to be a day 
 or two late for the steamer, and begging of him to 
 keep the boat waiting for me, if possible. Whilst I 
 was taking my breakfast, and whilst Borum Bras, was 
 talking to me and inquiring after my general health, 
 there was suddenly a shout, the chief started up and 
 rushed off to his house close by. All the people of the 
 town ran to their houses and armed themselves, and 
 the women stood on the tops of the houses screeching 
 their peculiar cry to call out the men. The cause of the 
 commotion was that a robber, who lived near this dis- 
 trict, had attacked an outlying village, and had carried 
 off some cows and killed a man. All the inhabitants 
 turned out and formed themselves in battle array in 
 two lines outside the town. The mode in which Abys- 
 sinians go to fight is rather a curious one : the men 
 that are lucky enough to possess guns are placed in 
 the front rank in one long line, and behind them are 
 those that have only spears and shields — this line 
 is generally three or four deep. I caused my mule to 
 be saddled, took my gun, and rode out to see if there
 
 224 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 was any chance of a fight taking place. It was very- 
 amusing to see a little fellow strutting up and down 
 opposite this armed rabble and haranguing them, 
 calling upon them to fight well and to follow Borum 
 Bras, their chief ; telling them, in so many words, they 
 were the bravest of the brave, and there were no 
 heroes in the world like them. Then something like a 
 word of command was given, and the whole of the men 
 moved forward a little, shouting and yelling, then they 
 squatted down again. I asked if there was any chance 
 of seeing this robber, or of his coming here. An old 
 Mahomedan, who seemed wiser than the rest, informed 
 me that there was not the slightest likelihood of his 
 coming to attack Koudoofellassie, as the people were 
 much too numerous. I went back to camp and got 
 my things packed up, as I intended to march to 
 Terramnee that day. 
 
 When all was ready I started off, and found that 
 the army of Koudoofellassie had moved some little 
 way outside the town. Borum Bras, and his attend- 
 ants, on horseback, might be seen in the distance 
 going through a variety of extraordinary evolutions, 
 galloping hither and thither, making a pretence of 
 spearing people. When I came up to the crowd I 
 found the women of the village were going about 
 with large jars of water to quench the thirst of their 
 husbands and relatives, and some of them had brought
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 225 
 
 out food ; they were evidently going to make a day 
 of it. I took leave of Borum Bras, with much regret ; 
 he rode a little way on the road with me, and then 
 we parted. I arrived at Terramnec shortly before 
 sunset, sent for Tuckloo, a former acquaintance of 
 mine and the chicker of the village, and asked for 
 some eggs for my dinner. He brought me a few 
 rotten eggs, which I had much pleasure in smashing 
 on the stones before him to prove their condition ; 
 he then went back and obtained some fresh ones. I 
 made myself an omelette ; and my donkeys, with the 
 bedding, etc., having come up, I had my tent pitched 
 a little distance outside the village. 
 
 March 21. — This morning I received a visit from 
 one of Borum Bras.'s servants, whom he had started 
 off very early to inquire after me and see how I was 
 getting on. This was very kind of him ; and this man 
 also ordered the chicker to give me what eggs, etc., 
 I wanted, and then left the village. After he had 
 gone, this same chicker seemed to think it quite 
 unnecessary to take any notice of me, and I received 
 no provisions ; so, as a flock of goats was passing 
 by my tent, I took the liberty of catching a kid, 
 tender and young, and handed it over to Ali to 
 cook, who soon cut its throat, and kid cutlets were 
 very shortly frying in the pan for my breakfast. I had 
 hardly eaten the last of them when the owner of the 
 
 Q
 
 226 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 goats came up and made a great noise, saying he 
 must be paid. I told him I had not the slightest in- 
 tention of paying him anything, as he had been ordered 
 to supply me with food, and a young kid was very 
 little out of a large flock. Eventually the affair was 
 settled, and it was agreed the villagers should bear 
 the loss of the kid between them. The meat was a 
 great change for me, as I had been living mostly on 
 eggs and chickens for the last week. I started about 
 mid-day for Deevaroua. It was very hot crossing the 
 plain which lay between this village and Terramnee. 
 I went past Deevaroua and halted for a short time 
 below it, under the shade of a large tree that grew 
 by the bank of the Mareb, which is here quite a little 
 stream. I tried to get two natives to carry some of my 
 things down to Massowah, but they refused to do so 
 unless they were paid in advance. I assured them I 
 had plenty money at Massowah, but they would not 
 believe me, and I had not enough coin with me to pay 
 them. 
 
 I do not think I was ever so much annoyed in my 
 life as I was on this occasion with these two men. I 
 felt inclined to give them both a thrashing ; but it is 
 very lucky I restrained my temper as, otherwise, it is 
 very likely I should have had the whole village down 
 upon me, and perhaps would not have got so well out 
 of it as I did out of my last scrape. One certainly
 
 SFOR T lA^ AB\ SSINIA. ■ 227 
 
 does feci very helpless without money, no matter 
 where one finds oneself, and this fact, combined with 
 my prostrate condition (of which, no doubt, these 
 men knew as well as I did), rendered me incapable of 
 much exertion. So I had to make up my mind to 
 get my already rather weary servants to carry the 
 things ; and the proverb, " Money makes the mare 
 to go," came bitterly home to me. 
 
 After resting myself, I rode towards the village of 
 Chickut, which was, my readers will remember, the 
 scene of my night march on our way to the Tackazzee. 
 The country through which I passed presented a 
 beautiful appearance — one continual grove of wild 
 olive-trees, and great Oualquals dotted here and there. 
 This part was not at all cultivated, yet I should 
 think that these olives, if properly trained and cared- 
 for, would make a valuable property ; but the natives 
 of Abyssinia have no idea of making oil from the 
 berries. This place is only four days from the coast, 
 and transport of the oil, when made, would not be very 
 expensive. I was very ill all the day, and in the after- 
 noon was so bad that I had to get off my mule and 
 rest under a tree. When I arrived at Chickut I pitched 
 my tent close to a little Coptic church. The village is 
 built on a high hill, and the houses are not like those 
 in the other part of Abyssinia through which I had 
 been travelling ; they were flat-roofed, and the walls
 
 228 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 were built with stones, whereas the ordinary form of 
 huts was a round wall with an extinguisher-shaped 
 roof. It was very cold here, and directly the tent 
 was pitched and my bed made ready I turned into it, 
 and caused my dinner to be brought to me as I lay 
 between the blankets. I find this entry in my journal : 
 " I am not worse, but still very ill. Thank God, I am 
 getting near the end of this awful journey! The 
 chicker here was very kind, and gave my servants 
 abundance of bread for themselves and a chicken for 
 me." 
 
 March 22 : Chickut. — The people here are all busy 
 putting a roof on the little Coptic church, close by 
 which I had encamped, and the work is done amidst 
 much chattering and talking. I heard from some mer- 
 chants yesterday that Arrekel Bey, the Governor, 
 had come back to Massowah ; so I hope, if this is 
 true, he will keep the steamer for me if I am late. 
 I sent on some of my servants to Beatmohar, K.'s 
 house, to-day, to let his boy Waldemariam know 
 that I was coming, so as to make everything ready 
 for me. Hadji Mahomet was behind with the rest of 
 my donkeys, and I was afraid they would not arrive 
 at Massowah in time to catch the steamer. I started 
 in the afternoon and climbed the steep hill which 
 lies between Chickut and the table-land of Asmarra. 
 It was a lovely view as we ascended, and looked
 
 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 229 
 
 even more charmiiifj in the daytime than it had 
 looked in the Hght of a tropical moon, the condition 
 under which we last saw it. I passed by Scllaadarou, 
 the place where we had encamped, and saw the re- 
 maining marks of the two large bonfires we had made. 
 After leaving this place I met some natives on the 
 road ; one of them was carrying in his hand a club 
 made of the wild olive wood : it was a beautifully- 
 shaped weapon, and I induced him, after great per- 
 suasion, to sell it to me for a dollar. He would not 
 hear of parting with it at first, but some of his com- 
 panions told him he was a great fool not to sell it, 
 as he could get many others, and a dollar was a good 
 price for the stick. 
 
 Travelling on, I found myself on the large plain 
 of Asmarra. Notwithstanding the precautions the 
 people had taken the cattle disease had got among 
 their beasts, and I saw several lying down, stretched 
 out, dying by the side of the pools. The wind 
 blew cold as I crossed the plain, and I wrapped 
 the cotton shama that I had tightly round me. 
 We were a small and wretched-looking party, as 
 we wound our way slowly across this bare table- 
 land ; the hardships and long journeys had told 
 pretty severely upon all of us. I thought the plain 
 would never cease, and K.'s little house, with the 
 extinguisher-shaped roof, rose up in the distance,
 
 2 3 o SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 but seemed to get farther from me. To my astonish- 
 ment, among some stunted bushes I saw two gazelles 
 grazing. I alighted and successfully stalked one, but 
 missed him as he bounded away. I was too weak 
 and ill for shooting, so I mounted my mule again 
 and soon found myself under the welcome shelter 
 of K.'s little house. Waldemariam had got every- 
 thing ready for me, and some fresh baked bread, 
 which was a great luxury. We had left a box of 
 provisions behind here, which I immediately broke 
 into, and to my great joy I found two bottles of 
 claret and other provisions which we had brought up 
 here. I made my dinner of fresh bread, fried sar- 
 dines, and a bottle of claret — just about the very worst 
 diet I could have taken under the circumstances ; 
 the consequence being that I was terribly ill all 
 night. 
 
 MarcJi 23. — About four in the morning I heard a 
 cry outside in the village, and then a wailing and 
 lamentation, mixed up with donkeys braying and 
 cocks crowing. It transpired that an old man, who 
 had been ill for some time, had just died. This 
 was an unpleasant thing to happen, and was not 
 calculated to raise my spirits under the circumstances 
 in which I was placed. Later in the morning a 
 brother of Naib Abdul Kerim came to see me. The 
 Naib was the man who brought us up here, and who
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 231 
 
 arranged for the transport of our luggage on bullocks 
 and mules. His brother asked me if he could be of 
 any use, as he had heard I was ill ; it was very 
 kind of him, and he proved of great service. I told 
 him that I should be very much obliged if he could 
 get me men from the village to carry me down to 
 the coast, for I was now becoming so extremely weak 
 that I really thought another two days* riding would 
 have polished me off. Accordingly he went into the 
 village and obtained twelve or fourteen men. I bor- 
 rowed a large angareb from one of the villagers, 
 and caused them to fix two long poles to it, so that it 
 could be carried on men's shoulders. I had no money 
 with me, but luckil}^ K. had left behind a sum of 
 money, and I took the liberty of borrowing some 
 dollars from him to pay the coolies, as these people 
 always insist upon half the agreed sum being paid in 
 advance. I sent forward letters to the French Consul 
 and the Governor, again asking them, in case I should 
 be late, to keep the steamer waiting for me. 
 
 On Saturday, about four o'clock in the morning, I 
 was carried very comfortably down to Maihcnzee, our 
 old camping-place, where we had passed such a wet 
 night on our way up here ; I now passed a com- 
 fortable night and felt better. Naib Abdul Kerim's 
 brother brought some coffee with him, of which he 
 gave me a portion, which I think improved me.
 
 232 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 The manner of making coffee is rather peculiar, 
 and merits description. When on the march, and 
 travelhng in Abyssinia, the natives carry a bag of 
 unroasted berries ; taking a few of the grains out of 
 the bag, they put them on a Httle mat, and then 
 scrape some hot wood-ashes out of the fire ; these 
 they mix with the coffee-grains, and then shakmg 
 the mat up and down, much in the same way as one 
 sees a groom shaking a sieve of oats to get the dust 
 from them, the coffee becomes gradually roasted. I 
 believe that they know when it is sufficiently done 
 by the smell. Then the coffee is put between two 
 stones and ground to powder ; or, if they happen to 
 have a small pestle and mortar, that is used. The 
 ground coffee is then put into a little earthenware 
 vase — one can hardly call it a jar as it has a long 
 neck — water is poured into the vessel, which is put to 
 boil on the fire. When sufficiently heated, some 
 fibre is crammed in the mouth of it to prevent the 
 coffee-grounds from coming out into the cup ; then 
 some of those little Turkish cups are produced, and 
 the coffee poured out and drunk. Drinking coffee in 
 these regions is quite a little ceremony, and is gene- 
 rally the time when the most important affairs are 
 discussed, and compliments are exchanged. I may 
 as well say that some of the best coffee I have ever 
 tasted was made in the way described. Why is it so
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 233 
 
 hard to get good coffee in England ? One great 
 secret, I am sure, is that every time it is made the 
 berries ought to be fresh roasted and fresh ground. 
 
 March 24. — This morning I enjoyed the luxury of 
 a really good wash in hot water, in my little tin basin, 
 having found some soap in K.'s house. I had been 
 without soap for several days, and I was disgusted to 
 find that specimens of the entomology which infests 
 Abyssinians and their houses had transferred their 
 attentions to myself. I hope that none of my readers 
 will ever have to experience, especially in a hot coun- 
 try, the total inability of washing oneself properly. 
 
 If there is one thing that is pleasant, and I may say 
 almost a luxury, it is the power of having a really good 
 wash. When one is leading a rough life, one misses 
 the morning tub of civilized life. Even on reaching 
 the Tackazzee, the waters of the river looked inviting 
 for a swim ; an indulgence in this pastime would be 
 made in the face of the fact of there being a chance, 
 and indeed a very good one, of being snapped up by 
 a crocodile, which would have been an unpleasant 
 and abrupt termination to a trip undertaken from 
 motives of pleasure and sport. The only place where 
 bathing was practicable was the shallow ford, and 
 during most of the day our native servants might 
 have been seen paddling and splashing about in the 
 shallow water, much to their delight and amusement.
 
 234 SFOJiT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 I am sure it did them all a great deal of good, Abys- 
 sinians, as a rule, not being fond of water applied 
 externally. The not very delicious odour experienced 
 on going amongst them is a sufficient guarantee of 
 this statement. 
 
 Whilst I was sitting outside my tent an Armenian 
 merchant, who, my servants told me, went by the 
 name of Bogos, passed by with several mule loads of 
 ivory ; he had come from the Shoa country, and he 
 was one of the best-looking men whom I had ever 
 seen ; very fair, at least in comparison with Abys- 
 sinians, and dressed in the costume of the country. 
 He informed me that the steamer was expected to- 
 day, which was its proper day ; and I hoped to arrive 
 in time for it, as, if I could stand the journey, I should 
 be at Massowah to-morrow. I had found an old 
 copy of Milton in K.'s house, and so I passed the 
 morning in reading ' Comus,' which I enjoyed very 
 much. 
 
 I left Maihenzee about mid-day. It was very 
 curious to observe the change in the vegetation at 
 the top of the pass ; the coast rains had ceased on 
 the side nearest Massowah, and everything on that 
 side was green and beautiful, whilst in the part I had 
 just traversed the ground was completely dried up, 
 and bushes and trees were bare. I stopped at 
 Mehdet and procured something to eat, then I travelled
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 235 
 
 on and got to Ginaar about 8 P.M., feeling very tired 
 and ill, although the men had carried me well. I sent 
 for Aristides, the Greek, who was still here building a 
 house. He was very glad to see me, and he told me 
 in broken French that I looked very ill, and that he 
 would accompany me next day into Massowah. 
 K., to whom Gindar belongs, had jDresentcd me 
 with some land — the whole side of a mountain, and 
 a small hill in the valley ; and I engaged Aristides 
 to build me a small house, so if I should go to Abys- 
 sinia again I shall have a place to live in. In 
 exchange for this land \\ hich K. gave me, I promised 
 to send him out a box-full of the seeds of all our 
 English vegetables. 
 
 March 25 : Gindar. — This little valley is looking 
 very beautiful, all the vegetation green and sprouting, 
 and the grass up to one's knees ; the whole air is 
 alive with bees and insects in quest of honey from 
 the flowers. 
 
 How changed was everything since the last time I 
 was here! In my former visits I was full of hopeful 
 expectation, looking forward to pleasant adventures 
 and good sport ; and now I was returning completely 
 knocked down by illness, and counting the hours 
 which would elapse before my arrival at the coast. 
 The scene was even brighter and more glorious than 
 when I had left it ; but, alas ! I scarcely possessed
 
 236 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 the power to appreciate it, and certainly I could 
 not enjoy it. Aristides breakfasted with me this 
 morning, and I killed a sheep and presented him with 
 the meat. He promised me that, after I had left the 
 country, he would look after things at Gindar. I 
 proposed that he should take the eggs from the 
 guinea-fowl, which abound here, and put them under 
 hens, so as to bring them up tame ; as, if they were 
 fattened and kept in a civilised state, they would be 
 excellent eating. I should also like to try the ex- 
 periment of introducing rabbits, which I am sure 
 would do very well, yet perhaps too well, so as to eat 
 up every green thing. 
 
 I started in the afternoon for Massowah, having 
 arranged that I should be carried to a place called 
 Maital, on a different road from that which we had 
 come by, but the usual one for merchants. I reached 
 Maital about dark, halted for an hour, obtained some- 
 thing to eat, and slept for awhile ; then I lay on 
 m.y angareb, and I was carried off again all through 
 the night. I thought the darkness would never come 
 to an end, and, towards morning, quite exhausted, 
 notwithstanding the jolting of the angareb, I fell 
 asleep, and woke up just at dawn : we were 
 close to the village of Moncullu. The cocks were 
 crowing, and some of the people might be seen 
 moving about. When we arrived here my coolies
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. - 237 
 
 actually began running along with me, and singing 
 and laughing. These men had been marching for 
 more than fourteen hours, and during that time had 
 eaten scarcely anything at all ! As I approached 
 Massowah I saw in the distance a steamer l}'ing in 
 the harbour ; this was indeed a great joy to mc, as 
 now I should speedily get home. I was carried into 
 Massowah more dead than alive. I went first to 
 the Div'an, and found that Arrekel Bey was away, but 
 the acting governor knew I was coming, and put 
 me into some rooms over the telegraph office. M. de 
 Sarzec, the French Consul, came to see me, after I 
 had eaten some breakfast ; he was very civil and kind, 
 but he said it was very lucky I had arrived at the time 
 that I did as the steamer was a day late, and, in the 
 absence of the Governor, the man who was acting for 
 him would not have dared to keep the boat waiting. 
 I dined in the evening with the French Company, a 
 mercantile house of which M. de Lanfrey is the 
 manager. They keep all kinds of stores, such as 
 beads, cotton cloth, silk, sugar, etc., which are sold to 
 the Abyssinian merchants, who take them up the 
 country. The dinner was very pleasant, and it was 
 agreeable to have the opportunity of talking to white 
 men again, after having led the life of a savage for 
 some little time. 
 
 Before finishing the account of my journey up the
 
 238 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 Red Sea, I must beg my readers to go back into 
 Abyssinia with me, and try to follow the sort of sport 
 my friend H. had been having, and did have, since 
 we parted. He wrote me a letter, saying that directly 
 he had received my note from Azho, dated the 12th 
 of March, and found that I was so ill, he came straight 
 up from the Mareb, and started off with Fisk and 
 Brou for Adiaboo. He arrived there on the 15th, 
 hoping to meet me ; but they told him — which he 
 was very sorry to hear — that I was two days in front 
 of him, and also making long marches in order to 
 reach Massowah in time for the steamer. He saw it 
 was useless going on, and so returned that same even- 
 ing to Adaajerra, which was better known to us by 
 the name of Barrakee's village. On his way back he 
 met with a most unpleasant adventure. It may be 
 remembered by my readers that, on our former visit, 
 Zardic, the old chief of Adiaboo, was excessively rude 
 to us, and we believed it was owing to him that our 
 donkeys were stolen, and also that so large a price 
 was charged for the ones that we bought. H. was 
 travelling quietly along with Fisk and three servants, 
 when suddenly he heard a yelling and shouting, and 
 three or four hundred Abyssinians, with Zardic at 
 their head, rushed down upon them, pulled them off 
 their mules, and began beating them with sticks and 
 spears, and poking their guns into their ribs. This
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 239 
 
 was far from pleasant, and, after it was all over, H. 
 and his party were more dead than alive. I am afraid 
 that I was unjustly the cause of this little contretemps, 
 as Zardic swore that I had knocked down a man at 
 Azho, and then shot at him, and, as they could not 
 catch me, because I passed so quickly through 
 Adiaboo, they thought they would assail H., as they 
 considered he was just as bad. A few days after the 
 assault by Zardic and his men, H. wrote to Rass 
 Baria, the chief of Tigre, a letter of complaint, and, 
 later on, wrote to the King himself about it. He 
 subsequently heard there was a tremendous " row " 
 about all this, and that Zardic was going to be 
 chained, and the governorship of the province taken 
 away from him. I think the punishment very just, 
 and well merited by this chief 
 
 During H.'s first excursion to the Mareb he shot 
 4 buffaloes, i leopard, i wadembie (which is a much 
 larger kind of deer than either hagazin or hartebeestj, 
 also I very large turtle, and 2 crocodiles. This was 
 certainly very good sport, and how I afterwards re- 
 gretted I was not able to be with him to swell the 
 bag ! This was before he came up to try and join me 
 at Adiaboo ; when he left Adiaboo, he went to the 
 Cassoua and Sherraro plains. There he shot 8 tora 
 (hartebeest), 3 of them being very large and fine 
 animals, i hagazin, and 2 pigs. Also, he says in his
 
 240 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 letter to me, that he killed "any number" of small 
 game, partridges, &c. These plains, according to his 
 account, swarm with all varieties of antelope, and, in 
 fact, he seems to have seen a great deal more game 
 than we did in any other part of Abyssinia. He stayed 
 there twelve days, and then went back to Barrakee's 
 village for a day and a half to get flour and provisions 
 for himself and servants ; after which he again went 
 down to the Marcb, and stayed there till the nth of 
 April, and would have remained longer, but the rains 
 had just begun, and he was afraid of fever. Of course 
 his great object was to get a lion, and for six succes- 
 sive nights he sat up watching over an old bullock — a 
 beast that we had brought down to the Tackazzee 
 with us, and one of those which was so nearly drowned 
 in crossing over that river. On the sixth night a lion 
 pounced upon the buffalo, and H. shot it as dead as a 
 door-nail. Naturally he was very pleased, as he very 
 truly said that he would not have liked to leave Africa 
 without having shot either a lion or an elephant. 
 There was great rejoicing in camp next morning 
 among his servants, as Abyssinians think a great deal 
 of shooting a lion, although the king of beasts does 
 not stand so high in scale with them as the elephant. 
 He said Barrakee stayed with him the whole time, and 
 turned out a first-rate guide that knew every inch of 
 the country, and I am sure H. never regretted having
 
 SFOR 7 ' IN ABYSSINIA. 24 1 
 
 kept him. He gave him Fisk's gun as a present on 
 leaving, which deHghtcd him very much. H. had on 
 one occasion saved his life. Barrakec got knocked 
 down by a wounded buffalo, and the beast was just 
 going to trample him to pieces, when II. came up 
 and shot it dead ; the consequence being that Barrakec 
 was only laid up for a couple of days with a stiff 
 neck, instead of being gored to death. This man 
 was, on the whole, the best specimen of an Abyssinian 
 we had anything to do with while we were in the 
 country. He had been taught a good deal by the 
 missionaries, and he remembered the Powell who, 
 some of my readers may remember, was murdered 
 by the Shangalla tribe some time ago. Altogether 
 Barrakee turned out a most useful and faithful servant 
 to us. In addition to the lion H. shot 8 more buffaloes, 
 I wadembie, 12 tora, and some gazelles. On the nth 
 of April he started for Adowa. Alas ! when he got 
 there he found that no attention had been paid to the 
 orders we had given for shields and black leopard 
 skins. He tried all over the town to get them, but 
 could not procure one. Rass Baria, who lived at 
 Adowa, had left, with most of the population of the 
 town, to join the king, who was fighting a sJiifter, or 
 robber, near Dembellas ; so nothing could be done, 
 and the man to whom we had sent the order said he 
 could not make the shields without the money. 
 
 R
 
 242 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 When H. went to try and see him he found that, Kke 
 all the rest, he had gone with Rass Baria to the king. 
 H. stopped a day at Adovva, and then went straight 
 on to Massowah. 
 
 His bag on the whole, that is to say, of large game, 
 was as follows: i lion, 12 buffaloes, 20 hartebeest, 
 2 hagazin, 2 wadembie, i leopard, i large deer with 
 straight horns, }y6 gazelles, i very large crocodile, 
 2 pigs, and an enormous turtle ; of course any amount 
 of guinea fowl and partridges. He says, " As for 
 hartebeest and buffalo, at Sherraro and on the Mareb, 
 you can go out and shoot as many as ever you like ; 
 upon my word, they are more like cows than anything 
 else. I saved all the best heads and skins, and shall 
 send them home from Suez. I cannot tell you how 
 glad I am that I went down to the Mareb. Day 
 after day I watched for elephant and rhinoceros, but 
 I never even got a shot at one, and as for rhinoceros 
 I never even saw a track of one." This information 
 as regards the rhinoceros is rather curious, and only 
 shows that they must be much farther west, in fact, 
 in the country which was explored by Sir Samuel 
 Baker.
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 243 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 FRENCH FRIENDS — ON BOARD — COMPARATIVE COMFORT — A QUEER 
 FISH — A DINNER PARTY — A CARGO OF GAZELLES — ROUGH WEATHER 
 — VOYAGE TO SUEZ — AND ARRIVAL. 
 
 March 27 : Massozvah. — I was very ill all night, 
 and this morning I went to the French Company to 
 get myself some clothes, as what I had on were 
 rather curious garments after the journey. I also 
 bought some stores for the voyage, and two fine 
 elephants' tusks, which were evidently not Abyssinian 
 ivory, as they were much too large. The Abyssinian 
 elephants have very small tusks, and the ivory does 
 not command a very high price. I was afraid my 
 donkeys would not come up till after the steamer 
 had sailed, but M. de Sarzec promised me to have all 
 my things packed up and sent on. I may as well tell 
 my readers that eventually everything arrived safe in 
 England, in as good condition as I left it when last 
 I saw it in Abyssinia. I lunched with the French 
 Consul, who entertained us most liberally and pro- 
 duced some very good "tcj," which he makes himself
 
 244 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 I went to the French Company's house in the after- 
 noon ; it overlooked the sea, and observing a boat 
 coming up alongside, I hailed it. An Englishman 
 was sitting in the stern, who turned out to be Mr. 
 Cordock, the engineer of the S.S. Massozuah. I asked 
 him to come into the house and speak to me, told him 
 that I was going away by the steamer to Suez, and 
 that I had been very ill. The boat was to sail the 
 next day, so that evening he dined with me at the 
 French Company's, and we went off to the ship to- 
 gether. He gave up his cabin to me, and he was 
 altogether most kind and considerate. 
 
 My only fellow-passenger was an ex-French naval 
 captain, who had been sent out by a mercantile 
 house in Paris to look for guano amongst the islands 
 in the Red Sea. He had been cruising about for ten 
 days in an open native boat, called a sambouk, from 
 island to island, but had not succeeded in finding 
 what he wanted, and was now returning to Paris. 
 He happened to have a servant who was an excellent 
 cook. This man was half a Syrian and half a 
 Frenchman, and on the voyage up to Suez he cooked 
 all our meals for us. 
 
 March 28, Sunday. — The ship was to sail to-day, 
 but there was an additional quantity of hides to 
 take in. They were gradually crowding up the 
 deck with this stinking cargo, which had been accu-
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 245 
 
 mulating at Massowah for some time, the government 
 in Egypt not allowing merchants to ship these hides 
 to Suez, as there was cattle disease at the time in 
 Abyssinia. I sat on the deck most of the day, enjoy- 
 ing the cool and pleasant breeze of the harbour. 
 Just before dinner M. de Sarzec came to sec me, and 
 I persuaded him to stay and dine with us ; he was 
 very entertaining, and he told us a long story of how 
 he had very nearly been murdered by the natives at 
 Fogera, in the south of Abyssinia. This is the place 
 where Consul Plowden, some time before, had been 
 killed. I wrote letters to K., and gave them to Gou- 
 basee to take to Adowa. I likewise left some 
 money behind with the French Consul for H., on 
 his return to Massowah. 
 
 March 29. — At daybreak the steamer sailed for 
 Suez. I was better to-day, as an Arab doctor of 
 Massowah had given me some opium and ipeca- 
 cuanha. This had improved me, as also, probably, 
 the change to sea air had a great deal to do with it. 
 The engineer's cabin was on deck, and so I was as 
 comfortable as I well could be on the dirty little 
 steamer. I had laid in a stock of provisions at Mas- 
 sowah, and had also brought down two small sheep 
 from Asmarra ; so with the help of the S}'rian cook 
 we promised not to fare badly. 
 
 March 30.— -I was a little better this morning, and
 
 246 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 during the day, but in the evening after dinner I was 
 taken dreadfully ill, in fact, I believed I was at the 
 point of death. The ship anchored for the night, as 
 is generally the custom with these steamers, the day 
 after leaving Massowah, for they are cruising about 
 amongst coral reefs, which are exceedingly dangerous. 
 Whenever we anchored, the sailors all set to work 
 fishing, catching numbers of peculiar-shaped and 
 strange-coloured monsters. 
 
 March 31. — I am better to-day, and we all dined 
 on the upper deck as it was very hot below. We 
 had a most unusual fish for dinner ; he was like a 
 perch, only perfectly red, and the spiky fin on his 
 back was of a very beautiful scarlet colour. To-day 
 the French captain showed me the charts of his 
 voyages amongst the islands of the Red Sea, which 
 he had made in an Arab boat with a crew of three 
 men and his servant. There is a very heavy dew 
 at night here, but we all three sat talking till late, 
 Cordock, the engineer, produced some rum, which I 
 am sorry to say I am not allowed to drink, but the 
 French captain seemed to enjoy it very much. The 
 second officer of the ship, an Egyptian of the name of 
 Hassain, is a very intelligent man ; he has been with 
 ships several times to London, and he talks a little 
 English. 
 
 April I. — We arrived at Souakim about 9 o'clock
 
 SPORT IN ABYSSINIA. 247 
 
 in the morning, having anchored, for the night 
 before, inside a reef I sent for the doctor, Achmet 
 Effendi, who came to see me. He was a very intelh- 
 gent and clever young man, and he spoke French 
 very well, having been seven years in Paris studying 
 his profession. Ali Effendi, the agent of the steamship 
 company, came off to see me ; he is a great friend of 
 A.'s, and seemed a capital good fellow. I gave them 
 all a little dinner in the evening. The table was 
 laid on the forecastle, and was lighted up with about 
 twenty little lamps, which Ali Effendi kindly pro- 
 vided. Our party consisted of Ali Effendi, the com- 
 pany's agent; Achmet Effendi, the young doctor; 
 Mustapha, the captain of the ship ; Hassain, the 
 second officer ; the French captain ; Mr. Cordock, the 
 engineer ; and myself. Dinner went off capitally, and 
 our party all seemed to enjoy themselves very much. 
 They drank all the coffee in the ship that was 
 ready ground, and ate a large quantity of sweet 
 things. I sent into the town of Souakim to try and 
 get a minstrel to enliven us, but the musical instru- 
 ment on which he played was broken, the minstrel 
 was asleep, and the ship's stoker, a Copt, whom I had 
 sent to fetch him, came back quite drunk. After my 
 unsuccessful attempt to entertain the company I 
 went to bed, and I believe the party still went on 
 drinkincf coffee and smoking ciijars ad libituui. We
 
 248 SFORT IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 here took on board a number of gazelles and 
 ariels. This is a speculation of an American, named 
 Philipo, who hopes to sell them for large prices in 
 Egypt. The animals are housed in pens on the fore 
 part of the ship and covered over with mats, as what 
 they suffer from most at sea is cold. I am picking 
 up Arabic very fast, and I think, in a short time I 
 should be able to talk like a native. The engineer 
 nurses me and takes the greatest care of me ; in fact, 
 I do not know what I should do without him. 
 
 April 2. — We left Souakim at eight o'clock in the 
 morning ; nothing of importance occurred to-day ; we 
 had head winds and a strong sea. 
 
 April 3. — It blew rather hard, and the ship swayed 
 about. We dined in the engineer's little cabin 
 amidships, where the motion has not so much eftect. 
 Our cook is prostrated with sea-sickness, as well as 
 most of the crew ; in fact, all these Arab sailors are 
 gfenerally sick when it comes on to blow. The 
 engineer, the French captain, and myself were the 
 only people who had not succumbed to this malady. 
 
 April 4. — At sea to-day it blew very hard, and we 
 made but little waj'', it was resolved, therefore, that if 
 it should continue to blow to-morrow we would anchor 
 inside Ras Benas, a large headland on the west side 
 of the Red Sea. Here may be seen the ruins of the 
 old Egyptian town of Berenice.
 
 SrORT IN ABYSSINIA. 249 
 
 April 5. — We were at anchor south of Ras Benas, 
 and sheltered by the hcadhmd, but the captain would 
 not go near the mainland, as the pilot did not know 
 that the entrance into the small harbour is here. This 
 was a great disappointment to me, as I should much 
 have liked to land and see the ruins of Berenice. The 
 country is inhabited, and further inland gazelles and 
 deer arc found ; there is also some vegetation, includ- 
 ing mimosa bushes. Cordock and I went out in the 
 evening in the captain's gig to try to catch some fish, 
 but we only got a good tossing among the reefs, yet 
 I think the fresh breeze was beneficial to me. 
 
 April 6. — We are still at anchor under Ras Benas, 
 it is blowing so hard. The captain gave us and his 
 officers a breakfast in Egyptian fashion : it was very 
 good, some of the dishes being quite original to 
 me. 
 
 April 7. — We weighed anchor at seven o'clock in 
 the morning, it was blowing very hard, and the 
 captain wished to stay here till the wind dropped, 
 but Cordock induced him to go on, as he knew I 
 was ill and wanted to get home as quickly as 
 possible. The Arabs are dreadful cowards in a 
 storm, and when they find themselves in one they 
 generally begin praying, and doing nothing else. I 
 was a little stronger, but still very ill with a bad 
 diarrhoea.
 
 2 50 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 April 8. — We had no chutney to eat with our curry 
 and rice, so I amused myself to-day by making some. 
 It resulted in a complete success, and proved very good. 
 The principal ingredients were some tomatos which the 
 cook had bought for nie at Souakim. At two o'clock 
 to-day we were abreast of the Brothers, two low coral 
 islands, and quite chief features of the Red Sea ; the 
 P & O. Company have put a flag-staff on the larger one. 
 A gale was blowing very hard, and Cordock hoped to 
 make Shadwan that night, which is a large island at 
 the mouth of the Gulf of Suez, with a high mountain 
 on it that can be seen for thirty miles. I hope to 
 arrive at Suez on the loth. It blew so hard, how- 
 ever, that we could not get on at all, so on the 
 morning of the 9th we anchored at Tur, after having 
 passed a very stormy night. When Cordock came to 
 me in the morning, he informed me that the ship 
 had very nearly been lost off the island of Shadwan ; 
 it was blowing tremendously hard at the time, and we 
 were on a lee-shore ; the steering-gear gave way, and 
 the ship went round before the wind. All the Arabs 
 lost their heads, but Cordock, with the help of his 
 assistant-engineer and the Syrian cook, put things 
 right. During all this commotion I was sleeping in 
 utter unconsciousness in my cabin, and in the morning 
 I was very glad they had not woke me up. Tur is a 
 little place on the east side of the Red Sea ; it is
 
 SrOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 2 5 1 
 
 here that pilgrims and travellers disembark, and get 
 their camels to start for Mount Sinai. 
 
 I went on shore in the afternoon and bought some 
 provisions at a Greek store there, and by a most un- 
 expected chance found some of Fortnum and Mason's 
 preserved soups at this out-of-the-way place ; they 
 had been part of the cargo of a ship that had been 
 wrecked in the Gulf of Suez. The goods had been 
 bought by some Greeks of the Suez Bazaar, then 
 sent down to Tur. I went to see the old Russian 
 gentleman who makes arrangements for all travellers 
 to Mount Sinai. I bought some tortoiseshell from 
 him, and also purchased a pretty good collection of 
 coral and Red Sea shells from a Greek who was 
 hanging about, and who also sold me three beautiful 
 little sponges. Cordock, the French captain, and 
 I walked out to a grove of date-palm trees not 
 far off; the mountains in the distance were covered 
 with a strange purple haze, peculiar to the Red Sea, 
 and afforded a magnificent appearance. These hills 
 reminded me very much of the scenery of the back- 
 ground of some of Gustave Dore's illustrations. 
 
 April 10. —We weighed anchor at seven o'clock in 
 the morning ; but it was still very rough. The P. & O. 
 ship passed us about five P.M. We had just enough coal 
 to last us thirty hours, and we had to run one 
 hundred and twenty-five miles. Thank God ! the
 
 2 5 2 SFOR T IN ABYSSINIA. 
 
 wind dropped, or I cannot guess where we should 
 have been. We heard at Tur that an English ship 
 was on the Zafarina reef. They also told us that it 
 was blowing so hard that ships' boats could not get 
 ashore from the vessels lying in the roads at Suez. 
 
 • April 1 1. — At last I have arrived at the end of my 
 journey, but more by good luck than good manage- 
 ment. We dropped our anchor at eight o'clock in 
 the Suez roads, having just got four tons of coal left. 
 If these had run out we should have had to go back 
 to Jidda for coal, or else gone ashore in a boat and 
 trudged up to Suez. 
 
 Here my Journal ends. And I hope no other 
 unhappy mortal who may go travelling in search of- 
 sport will ever have such a journey home as mine has 
 been. 
 
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