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 BRAZIL 
 
 AND 
 
 THE RIVER PLATE
 
 PRINTED BY 
 
 SPOTTISWOODE AND CO., NEW-STREET SQUARE 
 LONDON
 
 G^ Brttaia and Ireland 
 Showing napartctive size 
 
 I±
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 A HOLIDAY IN 
 BRAZIL AND ON THE RIVER PLATE 
 
 WITH ILLUSTRATIONS EY 
 
 E. R. PEARCE EDGCUMBE 
 
 LL.D. 
 
 TUM ZEPHyRI POSUERE : PREMIT PLACIDA /EQUORA PONTUS ' 
 
 bonbon 
 CHATTO & WINDUS, PICCADILLY 
 
 18S7 
 
 \_The right oj translation is rcscnxd]
 
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 URL 
 
 F 
 
 en 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 I DO not know that any ajDology is needed 
 for publishing a new book about Brazil and 
 the countries of the River Plate ; for these 
 lands are little known except to those who 
 travel thither for business purposes. If some 
 should think that in these pages I have dwelt 
 unduly upon the economic side of life, I must 
 plead that by profession I am a banker, and 
 that ' there is nothuie: like leather,' 
 
 E. R. P. E. 
 
 SOMEELEIGH, DOECHESTER : 
 
 September 1887.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER PAOK 
 
 I. OVUR THE SEA 1 
 
 II. THE TROPICS .10 
 
 m. RIO TO TUrCA 22 
 
 IV. AN OLD FELON 33 
 
 V. * BICHOS ' . 37 
 
 VI. THE BRAZILIAN 45 
 
 VII. SANTOS TO SAN PAULO 58 
 
 Vin. SLAVERY 68 
 
 IX. JIEANS OF COMMUNICATION ...'.. 75 
 
 X. ' YELLOW JACK " 86 
 
 XI. THE LAZARETTO 92 
 
 XII. UP STREAM 108 
 
 Xin. REVOLUTION 119 
 
 XIV. SALTO 141 
 
 XV. ACROSS THE PLAINS 152 
 
 XVI. THE LAND OF TONGUES 164 
 
 XVII. BUENOS AYRES AND LA PLATA . . . .180 
 
 XVIII. THE CAMP 196 
 
 XIX. ALONG THE PARANA 205 
 
 XX. THE GAUCHO 213 
 
 XXI. WHERE THE SHOE WILL PIXCH . . . .222 
 
 INDEX 239
 
 Z E P H Y R U S. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 OVER THE SEA. 
 
 We were makino- the most of our five-o'clock 
 
 O 
 
 tea on a cheerless November afternoon, and 
 discussino; our next summer's wanderino-s, 
 when the susfi^estion was thrown out, ' Make 
 a start in the sprmg, leave the east wind 
 behind, and set sail for the tropics.' 
 
 The idea was so tempting that we quickly 
 decided to act upon it, and forthwith set about 
 ordering overland trunks and all other need- 
 fuls for a lengthened voyage. 
 
 Our course once mapped out — to the Brazils 
 and the River Plate — we elected to take 
 passages by the Royal Mail Line, as their 
 steamers touch at most of the places we wished 
 
 B
 
 2 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 to visit. Then came advice from numerous 
 friends, advice of the most conflicting kind. 
 ' Dress as in England,' said one experienced 
 traveller ; ' Bring plenty of light summer 
 things, and don't be afraid of having too much 
 luggage,' said a second ; ' Wear fairly thick 
 clothes, and take as little as you can,' said a 
 third. We are now in our turn experienced 
 travellers, and if asked what advice we should 
 give, it would be, ' Take as little as you can ; 
 be provided with a few garments adapted for 
 excessive heat, and do not omit a small store 
 of provisions, compressed tea, cocoa, tinned 
 milk, biscuits, an etna, and an india-rubber 
 hot bottle.' 
 
 We left England in the middle of February 
 with frost and snow on the ground. Twenty- 
 four hours later we were running peace- 
 fully across the Bay of Biscay, which was 
 on its good behaviour, and the day following 
 the temperature had so far changed that it 
 was quite pleasant to wash in cold water. On 
 the third morning out we were at Lisbon. 
 
 Lisbon lies stretchino; alono; the river- side
 
 OVER THE SEA 3 
 
 flanked with high hills towards the north and 
 facing the busy open river and the hilly 
 country southwards, a charming situation. 
 The city itself is a horrible one for getting 
 about in, owing to the tremendous hills. 
 Nothing ever seems to have been done to modify 
 the gradients. It is like walking up and down 
 
 LISBON. 
 
 the sides of a house. The vehicles are 
 splendidly horsed, which is, indeed, a matter 
 of necessity and not of choice, and the horses 
 trot up the hills in a way that would make an 
 English horse stare. The liouses are built in 
 expectation of another earthquake, the frame- 
 
 B 2
 
 4 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 work being of wood and the outsides only- 
 cased with stone or brick. The shops contain 
 little to tempt one. We went to the opera in 
 the evening — the singing was good, but the 
 performers were all dressed like inferior rag 
 dolls and the scenery was to match. 
 
 In a neglected grave in the English burial- 
 ground lies the greatest of novelists, Henry 
 
 LISBON, LOOKING OUT TO SEA. 
 
 Fielding. Hither he came in the spring, and 
 here he died in the fall, of 1754. Here it 
 was that he penned the last of his writings, 
 brimful of humour, the ' Voyage to Lisbon.' 
 
 On the river I took note of a trim well- 
 built steamer, and, on mquiring her calling,
 
 OVER THE SEA O 
 
 found she was exclusively employed carrying 
 wine from Lisbon to Iiordeaux, to be there 
 diluted into claret for the Eno:lish market. 
 We left Lisbon on Saturday evening, look- 
 ing for an easy run of ten days to Pernambuco. 
 Next morning when we turned out it was just 
 a bit roily. Presently we heard a tremendous 
 crash of crockery, and, looking out of the 
 cabin, I found that the ship had given a lurch 
 which had sent the whole of the breakfast fly- 
 ing. The fiddles were put on the tables, and 
 breakfast relaid, but very few made an appear- 
 ance. I retired rather promptly after a very 
 frugal repast to my cabin. While sitting on 
 my bunk, feelmg somewhat disconsolate, I 
 heard a rush of falling water and a scurrying 
 to and fro ; then after a short space another 
 rush of water and a great turmoil witliout ; but 
 I was not in an investij^atino- frame of mind, so 
 was inclined to let it pass. Then a sailor put 
 his head in at my cabin door, and inquired, 
 'Any water in this cabin ? ' ' No,' said I, rather 
 tartly, yet with a subdued sense of having 
 something to be thankful for after all. But
 
 b ZEPHYRUS 
 
 my sense of satisfaction was to be soon dis- 
 pelled; for presently a streak of dirty water 
 ran like a snake across my cabin ; then more 
 and more as tbe vessel rolled and pitched, 
 leaping and dancing with boisterous delight. 
 Six inches of water on a stationary floor is one 
 thing ; but six inches in a cabin which is 
 tilted at every angle in thirty seconds is an- 
 other. It rushed hither and thither, splashed, 
 gurgled, and hissed. It carried off boots, 
 slippers, and socks, got into our boxes, satu- 
 rated our biscuits, wetted the bedding, and in 
 two minutes turned the whole place into a 
 reeking, chilly, wave-swept cavern. I rushed 
 about, trying to save what I could, and then, 
 hearing loud voices without, I inquired of the 
 chief officer, ' Where does the water come 
 from? ' ' I can't say,' was the answer. This 
 is a cheerful state of things, thought I, when 
 crash came tons of water down the fore-hatch- 
 way, which had not been battened down, and 
 the mystery was explained. For the next 
 half-hour they were battening down the 
 hatchway, and swabbing up, but our cabin
 
 OVER THE SEA 7 
 
 was perfectly uninhabitable for the rest of the 
 day ; so I sought refuge, accompanied by a 
 hot bottle, in the upper saloon. We ran all 
 day under steam and canvas, with the wind 
 athwart the beam. About seven o'clock in 
 the evening the wind suddenly went down, 
 and, as the wind droj^ped, the vessel, being 
 no longer keeled over by her sails, righted. 
 Just then we had the ill-luck to be struck by 
 a very heavy sea, which swept one of the life- 
 boats clean away, in which were stored all our 
 fresh vegetables for the next ten days' con- 
 sumption. Away, too, went the pigs, their 
 house and all. One more vast mass of water 
 came trampling over the deck, and then the 
 storm was over. 
 
 At daybreak on the third day after leaving 
 Lisbon, we passed the Peak of TenerifFe, 
 standing like a gaunt sentinel wrapped in the 
 early morning mists. A few hours later we 
 sighted several more of the Canary Isles. This 
 was the last we saw of what geographers call 
 the Eastern Hemisphere. Two days later we 
 were in the tropics. The sea- water in the baths
 
 8 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 was now quite hot, and the Portuguese men of 
 war (Nautilus) appeared sailing about in pro- 
 digious numbers. Clearly this the place to 
 
 Learn of the little Nautilus to sail, 
 
 Spread the thin oar and catch the driving gale. 
 
 In the languid swooning air of the Dol- 
 drums, we soon became quite child-like — 
 amused by the merest trifles — veritable lotus 
 eaters in mind and body. Yet delightful 
 dreamy days were these, lying in the open 
 
 FERNANDO NOEONHA. 
 
 gun-ports, shaded from the sun, with the 
 breezes playing over the smiling many-dimpled 
 waste of waters — days not soon to be forgotten. 
 Every port was now kept wide open day and 
 night, and every breath of air was welcomed. 
 At night as I lay awake in my berth by the 
 open port, T could hear in answer to the ship's
 
 OVER THE SEA 9 
 
 bell ringing out the hours, the musical voice of 
 the watch faintly echoing back from aloft 
 throuoh the still nii>ht air, ' All's well.' A 
 cheery and soothing sound. 
 
 The first land we sighted of the new 
 world was Fernando Noronha with its rugged 
 peaks ; the home of murderers, for hither are 
 sent the cut-throats of Brazil, the Emperor 
 (Dom Pedro II.) having virtually abolished 
 capital 23unishment by the simple expedient 
 of refusing to sign the warrants of execution ; 
 this branch of the executive not being dele- 
 gated to a minister as in England.
 
 10 
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 CHAPTEK II. 
 
 THE TKOPICS. 
 
 On the tenth day out from Lisbon we arrived 
 at Pernambuco. The city lies as flat as 
 Venice on the water, simmering up all. white 
 and hot just between sea and sky, while 
 
 PERNAMBUCO. 
 
 stretching far away on either hand along the 
 coast, stand forests of stately slender palms, 
 throwing up their thousand sprays of verdure 
 to the blue heaven. We went ashore and saw 
 the narrow, crowded, picturesque old^ town,
 
 THE TROPICS 11 
 
 the market and the long outlying streets 
 of modern houses, capacious but unbeautiful. 
 We trammed in all directions over the city by 
 the ' bond ' as it is called, and amongst other 
 things came across a new beast of burden, to 
 wit, a sheep, harnessed in a little cart, going 
 round with the dusky baker at a brisk trcrt 
 
 NATUEAL BREAKWATER, PERNAMBUCO. 
 
 from house to house, and doing its work to 
 all appearance most efficiently. 
 
 Pernambuco owes its importance as a sea- 
 port to a long straight reef of rock, which 
 forms a natural breakwater and secures the 
 city a splendid harbour. Outside this reef a 
 heavy sea is always running, due to two tides 
 meeting. This makes gomg ashore from a ship
 
 12 
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 moored in the offing a perilous matter even 
 on a calm day. The difficulties of it have 
 developed in the boatmen a remarkable cat- 
 like nimbleness of hand and foot. The fisher- 
 men of this coast 2:0 to sea on little rafts 
 
 JANGUAEDAS. 
 
 called janguardas, consisting of four or five 
 logs braced together, propelled by a triangular 
 snow^-white sail poised endways. At a dis- 
 tance these little craft look like mere white 
 pinions, the log deck being entirely hidden by 
 the water.
 
 THE TROPICS 13 
 
 As the sea sweeps over tliem perpetually, 
 the jangnarda sailor is always wet to the 
 knees, but as the water is quite warm from 
 the heat of the sun, the fishermen do not 
 regard this as an inconvenience. We passed 
 janguardas quite sixty miles from shore. 
 They are very stable, but liable to sink after 
 being thirty- six hours at sea, from the wood 
 absorbing too much water. As there is al- 
 ways some risk of being washed overboard, 
 janguardas are provided with hempen loops to 
 stay oneself by. 
 
 An immersion to the oily negro is 
 merely a discomfort, but to the white man a 
 danger ; for the dainty sharks which abound in 
 these waters, though they will hardly look at a 
 black man, devour a white man with avidity. 
 Some of the janguardas, as in the sketch, 
 have a little raised platform thatched over for 
 shelter and rest at ni^ht. 
 
 The coloured people of Pernambuco appear 
 to be both healthy and vigorous, but the pure 
 whites seemed as if they drooped under the 
 scorching blaze of the tropic sun ; many of
 
 14 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 them looking as if visibly touched by the 
 finger of death. To the effect of the climate 
 is probably due, in a large degree, the many 
 cripples and deformities in human shape we 
 could not avoid noticing. Perhaps the most 
 delightful part of Pernambuco is the plaza at 
 the quay, where one can sit under magnolias 
 as big as forest trees, and gaze by the hour 
 together out upon the blue sea. 
 
 After the loss of our fruit and vegetables 
 in the storm, we were especially glad of the 
 fresh supply we procured at Pernambuco. 
 Pine-apples, although late in the season, 
 were delicious, and most refreshing — tender, 
 juicy, and glorious in colour ; so different 
 from Covent Garden pine-apples. Wreaths of 
 bananas of exquisitely delicate flavour. The 
 correct thing is to eat them with large slices 
 of Dutch cheese ; a taste which I think is due 
 to cultivation, as it does not appear to be 
 innate. Loquats, a small, round, dark yellow 
 fruit, about the size of a Tangerine orange, 
 with a large stone in the centre ; in fact, it 
 seems chiefly skin and stone ; but for all that
 
 THE TROPICS 
 
 15 
 
 greatly appreciated by the Brazilians. The 
 loquat when in blossom is a pretty little tree 
 covered with sweet scented spikes of creamy 
 white flowers. Oranges — called 'Bahia oranges' 
 — such juicy fellows, melting in the mouth. 
 
 HUT WITH BANANA PALMS NEAR MACEIO. 
 
 Our next place of call was Maceio(Mac-c-o). 
 We landed and took the ' bond ' southwards 
 for about two miles out of the town, through 
 the most glorious tropical vegetation dotted 
 with the untidy, unkempt colour-washed stucco 
 dwellings of the blacks or semi-blacks, who 
 sat about the doors of their houses wholly 
 absorbed in the serious contemplation of
 
 16 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 nothing — while their dusky progeny played 
 in the roadway very simply clad in their 
 birthday suits. At the terminus of the ' bond ' 
 we fell in with some lace-makers and made 
 some satisfactory purchases. On our way 
 back to Maceio we came upon a funeral just 
 making ready to start, and found that people 
 were even buried by means of the ' bond,' 
 
 THE HEARSE. 
 
 the hearse in this case being a railway truck 
 elaborately resplendent in gold and silver tin- 
 sel on a black -velvet draping, and having in 
 the centre, to carry the coffin, a sort of raised 
 altar, similarly decorated. 
 
 Our next place of call was Bahia, grandly 
 situated, as all the old Jesuit cities are, on a 
 long low bluff, looking across the wide placid 
 harbour to the deep blue distant mountains.
 
 THE TROPICS 17 
 
 The best part of the town is built along upon the 
 high ground some 200 feet above the sea. The 
 abrupt hill-side is draped with bananas and the 
 cocoa-palm, and below on the sea-level is the 
 lower town where the colossal Bahia negi'oes, 
 redolent of oil, bask in the sun. The arms of 
 some of the women are bigger than many an 
 English waist. The teeth and lips are mon- 
 strous, and their tattooed cheeks add to their 
 extraordinary charms. The most typical 
 negroes are jet black, and repulsively ugly, 
 but they are of every shade and colour fi-om 
 black up to a dingy brown. One, strange 
 to say, had carrotty hair and a complexion 
 to suit, yet retained in matted hair and form 
 of lips and jowl every point of the pure negro. 
 We ascended to the upper town by the 
 lift of which I have a vivid recollection, the 
 machinery being lubricated with castor oil, 
 the cheapest oil here. From the Plaza to 
 which the lift rises, there is a splendid view 
 of the sweeping bay and distant mountains, 
 the shipping lying immediately below in the 
 foreground. The Plaza itself is a true bit of
 
 18 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 antiquity, with a cliurch. and municipal build- 
 ings of a character that would not be out of 
 place in an old Italian city. From here we 
 took the ' bond ' to Victoria, a charming off- 
 shoot of the city nestling on the Atlantic 
 shore. On the way thither we alighted at 
 what looked like a promising place for breakfast 
 and were not disappointed. We were taken to 
 a long room, if room it can be called ; for, 
 though it was covered in overhead, the sides 
 were open, save for a deep skirting banked in 
 on either side by green bananas, tree ferns, 
 and bright flowers. A negro in spotless white 
 cotton attire, glittering with diamonds, moved 
 noiselessly about on bare feet, and laid before 
 us a capital breakfast with good bread, fresh 
 butter, and sweet milk. A delightful repast 
 enousrh to those who have been at sea for 
 days knowing nothing but tinned milk and 
 salt butter and ship bread. 
 
 Navigation in the neighbourhood of Bahia 
 is especially difficult owing to numerous reefs 
 and rocks, and from Pernambuco to the River 
 Plate generally is not unattended with risk,
 
 THE TKOPICS 
 
 10 
 
 as rocks and shoals are numerous, and the sea 
 is indifFerently charted. On her very next 
 voyage out, the steamer we were on board 
 struck on a rock. The Brazilian Empire and 
 the River Plate repubhcs practically refuse to 
 chart their own coasts, on the plea tliat as 
 they have no mercantile navy they are not 
 concerned to do it. 
 
 The result is that marmers still steer by 
 
 BAHIA LIGHTHOUSE. 
 
 the chart made by Captain Fitzroy (witli 
 whom sailed Darwin in the ' Beagle ') more 
 than fifty years ago, corrected and amended 
 fi'om time to time by the costly process of 
 reported wrecks on uncharted rocks and 
 shoals. As storms are infrequent, there is 
 little danger of loss of life, even if a vessel 
 founders. But the loss of all one's baggage 
 
 c 2
 
 20 
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 may easily arise from shipwreck, and in a land 
 where money will not replace one's goods save 
 in a style unpalatable to an Englishman, such 
 a catastrophe may well be no slight inconveni- 
 ence. Some of our numerous ffun-boats miffht 
 be usefully employed in recharting these seas. 
 Boats come off at Bahia — and also at 
 Maceio and Pernambuco — to 
 homeward-bound ships, with 
 marmosets, parrots, monkeys, 
 cardinal birds, raccoons, and 
 other beasties for sale. A brisk 
 traffic is done in green parrots 
 at about three to five shillings 
 each, and in marmoset monkeys 
 at one shilling apiece. We 
 were rather drawn towards the 
 little marmoset monkeys, but 
 would not buy one, as we hardly 
 thought it fair to transport them 
 to a climate where their exist- 
 ence, as long as it drags on, 
 must be more or less miserable. In spite 
 of our good resolutions, however, we became 
 
 
 LITTLE 'WAIF.
 
 THE TROriCS 21 
 
 possessed of one ; for after the boats had left, 
 and we were on our way once more, I 
 found, runnino: at hiro;e in tlie ri2;o-in2:, un- 
 claimed, one of the prettiest little marmosets. 
 We took charge of him and furnished him with 
 a comfortable home in our cabin — a chattering 
 little mortal, equally fend of a fresh grape and 
 a blue-bottle fly. Little ' Waif.' as we called 
 him, lived happily enough through the summer, 
 but when the November days came round, he 
 became peevish and husky, and at last one 
 evening went to sleep and woke no more.
 
 22 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 RIO TO TIJUCA. 
 
 We reached Rio on the nineteenth morning 
 after leaving England. It is impossible for 
 me to picture in words the beauty of the ap- 
 proach to Rio as we steamed m at daybreak 
 through the narrow gateway in the mountains, 
 flushing first deep purple, then crimson and 
 rose-colour, in the streams of light which as- 
 cended from the east, harbingers of the full 
 blaze of the tropical sun. Although the en- 
 trance to the Bay of Rio is a mile wide, its true 
 width is so dwarfed by the lofty mountains 
 that stand on either side that it looks like a mere 
 gap. Once within the gateway in the hills, the 
 mighty harbour stretches out into a grand 
 lake thirty miles across, completely girdled 
 round by mountain ranges. Sydney and the
 
 mo TO TIJUCA 
 
 23 
 
 Golden Horn are the only two places which 
 are ever compared with Rio in respect of 
 beauty. With Sydney I am not acquainted, so 
 cannot judge ; but of Constantinople I can 
 unhesitatingly say that it will not bear com- 
 parison with Rio. The name of Rio (river) 
 is a misnomer. The Jesuit discoverers en- 
 
 BAY OF THE EIO FBOM ORGAX MOUNTAINS. 
 
 tered the bay on St. John's day, and, think- 
 ing it to be the mouth of a river, they called 
 it Rio de Janeiro. 
 
 We learned upon arrival that yellow-fever 
 was bad in the city, and being told that it 
 was especially likely to attack new comers, 
 we deemed it prudent not to remain in Rio, 
 so determined to go to Tijuca. We walked
 
 24 ZEPHYEUS 
 
 tlirongh Rio, which looked both gay and busy ; 
 all the shops being open, and owing to its being 
 Sunday all the people wearing their brightest 
 apparel. The streets are very picturesque, 
 with a strong old Spanish flavour about their 
 appearance ; the shops excellent, displaying 
 wares of every kind, high in quality and high 
 in price. The market-place was full of life 
 and bustle, with all its strange colouring of 
 dark humanity in brilliant costumes, luscious 
 fruits, gaudy parrots and other birds — most 
 delectable to the artistic eye. Peculiar to Rio 
 are the flowers of various kinds made from 
 the feathers of birds, and I must admit, 
 though I do so with reluctance, that many of 
 these feather flowers are very beautiful. We 
 had a special 'bond' to take us onward, and 
 glorious was the scenery as we crept up the 
 mountain side to Tijuca, romantically perched 
 on a saddle between the Bay of Rio and the 
 Atlantic. 
 
 In spite of the great heat, the grass and 
 many of the trees were intensely green, no 
 doubt owing to the drenching morning dews.
 
 RIO TO TIJUCA 25 
 
 All the way to Tijuca we were ascending, 
 and the woods on either side were aglow with 
 colour, purple and gold prevailing. The bare 
 rock cropping out in places showed the 
 scoring and polishing action of vast glaciers ; 
 and now where ice once lay m masses there 
 grow — all wild — palms of every kind, bananas 
 with enormous whorls of fruit, bread-fruit 
 and mango trees, poinsettias, various kinds 
 of azaleas, white and crimson mimosa, bushes 
 of plumbago, gigantic cacti, and innumerable 
 trees and flowers we knew not. Fine maiden- 
 hair fern growing everywhere, cropping out 
 in the stony roads, by the wayside, and 
 crowning the walls with a delicate green 
 fringe, greenhouse ferns growing in the most 
 luxuriant profusion, fairly exhausting every 
 term of admiration we were masters of. As 
 we crept up higher and higher we got the 
 most charming peeps of the bay below us and 
 the mountains round about. Away to the 
 right the Corco Vada, and at its foot the 
 botanical gardens famed for their stately 
 avenues of soaring palm trees which we
 
 26 
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 visited later. Before we quite reached the top 
 we quitted the ' bond ' for a carriage drawn by 
 four mules. The crest once turned we were 
 rattled down at a headlong pace, banged round 
 corners anyhow, and bumped up and down 
 on our seats like india-rubber balls. This we 
 
 BAY OP RIO, WITH COECO VADA AND PEAK OF TIJUCA 
 IN THE BACKGROUND. 
 
 found to be quite the usual style of driving, 
 yet accidents seldom happen unless a wheel 
 comes off, wdiich they regard, however, as a 
 trifle. Only a few days after this, before our 
 nerves had quite come round to their ways, I 
 ventured to remonstrate with the driver for 
 descending a mountain road at what I thought
 
 RIO TO TIJUCA 27 
 
 a break-neck pace without piittmg on the 
 drag. He just glanced at nie, and waving 
 his hand with a gentle deprecatory air, merely 
 remarked, ' The drag is out of order.' 
 
 AVe soon settled down in our comfortable 
 rooms at White's Hotel ; palatial they seemed 
 after our diminutive cabin. On the one side 
 they opened right upon the courtyard with a 
 fountain tricklino- under a bank of flowers. 
 On the other side we stepped into a balcony, 
 where we used to sit in our rocking chairs for 
 hours together, looking out upon the moun- 
 tain sides clothed with luxuriant vegetation. 
 We usually rose at five o'clock. The morning 
 light was then just fringing the mountains 
 and the freshness was most exhilarating-. 
 The first thing was to journey to the bath, 
 a running brook, leaping down amongst the 
 rocks on the mountain side, waylaid and led 
 into a grove of lofty bamboos. There m the 
 midst is a large stone bath from every crack 
 and crevice of wliich springs a wealth of 
 maidenhair fern ; flowing out again, the 
 water makes a descent of several feet, first
 
 28 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 passing over a broad flat stone, underneath 
 whicli one can stand and get deliciously 
 drenched, while overhead the trellis -work is 
 laden with heavy clusters of the beautiful 
 bouo;ainvillea. Just one of those romantic 
 bathing-places one is accustomed to see in 
 Claude's pictiu'es — fit only for gods and classic 
 nymphs. After a leisurely bath, followed by 
 coifee and rolls, we rambled in the woods, re- 
 turning by ten at latest. From ten o'clock 
 till foiu' the heat kept us within doors, sketch- 
 ino' flowers, readins; and dozino-, and then we 
 were out again till nearly seven, by which time 
 it was dark. Everytliing was so new and so 
 beautiful that the days seemed to fly by. To 
 a European it might be another planet, so ut- 
 terly is nature in all her forms unlike what we 
 are accustomed to at home. Much of our time 
 was taken up in botanising. The flowers are 
 many of them so filmy in texture that we foimd 
 it impossible to dry them successfully in 
 presses. Some of them dropped to pieces so 
 quickly that it was difficult even to get them 
 home and rapidly sketch them before they died.
 
 KIO TO TI.IUCA 
 
 29 
 
 The flower of the mahogany tree is like a 
 creamy plume of feathers, but so filmy that 
 it drops almost as soon as plucked, and 
 many attempts were made before we succeeded 
 in getting one safely home. It is very curious 
 how nearly all the flowers are either brilliant 
 
 FLOWER OF MAHOGANY TBEE. 
 
 crimson, yellow, or reddish puq^le ; and 
 how every different walk seems to be fur- 
 nished with a different set of flowers. Pale 
 flowers are rare. Of blue flowers we only 
 found one. 
 
 Sketchino- out of doors is well-nio'h an
 
 30 ZEPHYEUS 
 
 impossibility. The insects simply will Bot 
 allow it. If one makes an attempt to settle 
 down to sketch, several small forces of the 
 enemy at once begin the attack. As soon 
 as these have been beaten off, troops of others 
 appear and march and counter-march in the 
 most excruciatingly irritating way over the 
 lumps raised by the first comers. Others get 
 upon the paper, another lot gets into the paint 
 box, and yet another tribe drink up the paint 
 upon one's brush before one can get it on to 
 the paper. After several vain attempts I gave 
 up the struggle. 
 
 The lustrous tinted humming-birds are 
 the only birds that show themselves freely in 
 the sunlight (except vultures), darting from 
 flower to flower and hovering over them with 
 scarcely perceptible motion of the whig. The 
 other birds seem to fear the light and fly from 
 tree to tree hurriedly as if to escape the fierce 
 glare. But their shrill notes may be often 
 heard in the woods, and the chatter and sharp 
 squeak of the monkeys, and for ever and for 
 ever a kind of loud buzz of insects of all stations
 
 RIO TO TIJUCA 31 
 
 and defrrees. Tliis buzzino; never ceases, 
 always growing louder during the hottest 
 hours of the day. The noise that dominates 
 all, ever piercing the air most shrilly, is the 
 whirr of the cicada — a species of grasshopper. 
 They sit about in every tree, cicada answering 
 cicada, — beginning with a buzzing sound 
 which gets louder and louder as it rises up the 
 scale, and winding up with a piercing whistle. 
 It takes the cicada from 15 to 20 seconds to 
 ascend from a low buzzing sound to a shrill 
 whistle, and how so small an insect can make 
 such a tremendous noise — as loud almost as a 
 steam whistle — is a marvel. Just under our 
 balcony a little brook gurgled refreshingly : 
 by its side grew some crimson bignonia trees 
 about 12 feet high, clumps of bamboos GO 
 feet high, palms and tree ferns, and most 
 beautiful of all a laro-e mimosa covered all over 
 with large rich, crimson, tufty blossoms, 
 circular balls of fine crimson hairs about 4 
 inches in diameter. The humming-birds were 
 especially fond of this mimosa, and were always 
 hovering over it, their lustrous gi-een and
 
 32 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 bronze colours sliowino; off to advantaa^e 
 against the crimson blossoms. After dark the 
 brook was alive with brilliant fire-flies, the 
 great bats came sailing out and the owls began 
 to screech, while above the mountain tops 
 appeared the two constellations of the Cross, 
 the Southern Cross, and the still more beau- 
 tiful false Cross.
 
 33 
 
 CHAPTER lY. 
 
 AN OLD FELON. 
 
 OuK abode at Tijuca was White's Hotel, a de- 
 lightful rambling place with a curious history. 
 Some 40 years ago an old Frenchman took up 
 his residence here, and built for his home the 
 oldest part of what is now White's Hotel. He 
 lived a studiously retired life, never going 
 down to Rio, and from his unsociable nature 
 came to be regarded as a queer character by 
 the few neighbours round about. Rio was not 
 then so easily reached as now, there being only 
 rough mule tracks to the city. After living a 
 lonely life for some twelve years one of the old 
 Frenchman's slaves ran away. The slave was 
 captured in Rio, and word was sent to his 
 master that if he would come down and 
 identify the fugitive slave, he could have him 
 
 1)
 
 34 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 back. To Eio he went, and when there the 
 chief of the pohce recognised him as one who 
 had been ' wanted ' some twelve years before. 
 He was taken into custody and eventually sent 
 to Paris, there tried for forgery, convicted, and 
 transported to Algiers for life. His property at 
 Tijuca was sold for a song, and the purchaser, 
 finding the air invigorating, made it a sort of 
 sanatorium, and gradually it became changed 
 into a regular hotel. 
 
 The old Frenchman of Tijuca could not 
 have been aware of the proper method of stating 
 his case to the police, or he might have saved 
 himself his return journey to Paris, if what 1 
 heard said of the ways of the Brazilian police is 
 to be trusted. If one may j udge by more recent 
 events, it seems that they are a body not wholly 
 without guile. It was only the day before we 
 landed at Rio that it became generally known 
 there that the cashier of the English Bank of , 
 Rio, a Brazilian, had absconded, and that there 
 was a deficiency in the notes he had in his 
 charge (the circulation is carried on entirely 
 in paper money) amounting to some 20,000^.
 
 AN OLD FELON 35 
 
 He had been living in a style beyond his visible 
 means, horse-racing, and generally plunging. 
 I inquired how he could escape from the 
 country. The reply was that he would not 
 do that, he would go into the interior. But 
 would he not then be easily taken, I asked. 
 ' Oh no, not if he settled matters with the 
 police. That is easily done.' 
 
 My friend went on to say that he thought 
 the absconding cashier might ' safely return, 
 for no jury would convict him.' I thought 
 at the time that this was uttered sarcastically, 
 but, if so, it turned out to be only too true, 
 for I afterwards heard that the defaulting: 
 cashier was tried by a Kio jury and actually 
 acquitted. The inability to be strictly honest 
 in times of temptation gives a great advantage 
 to Englishmen, who for all positions of trust 
 are held in high esteem. One day, when 
 changing a circular note at a branch of one 
 of the English banks, the cashier (a Brazihan) 
 gave me short change. After a protest he 
 handed me the full amount. Such a thing 
 would be unheard of, I imagine, in any bank 
 
 D 2
 
 36 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 in England. The railway companies have to 
 maintain an elaborate system of checks to 
 prevent their employes from returning less 
 than the full amount taken by the companies, 
 yet even with these precautions I suspect that 
 a certain amount slips away. As showing 
 indirectly the want of honesty there is amongst 
 the people, fire insurance offices have to charge 
 higher premiums than they do in Europe, yet 
 the danger of fire in their houses, as compared 
 with ourselves at home, is infinitesimal ; for 
 it never being cold enough to make a fire 
 necessary for warmth's sake, the only fire in 
 the house is a charcoal stove for cooking 
 purposes. So slight is the risk of fire in 
 private houses that it is said that ' there were 
 no fires in Rio before the insurance offices 
 came.' With regard to their infirmities in 
 the matter of truthfulness, a native put it to 
 me very neatly, though in somewhat broken 
 English, ' There is no place where they miss 
 more the truth.'
 
 3; 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 'bichos.' 
 
 We were the only bond fide travellers in the 
 hotel at Tijuca, All the other occupants 
 were merchants from Rio, with their wives 
 and families, or well-paid clerks who seemed 
 thoroughly to enjoy life — kindly friendly 
 people, much accustomed to social ways, many 
 of them Uving permanently, when in Rio, 
 in large comfortable well-appointed boarding- 
 houses. 
 
 After dusk the barata moves about with 
 the activity of a gigantic black-beetle, which 
 it closely resembles in form. It is an insect 
 nearly as long and as broad as one's first 
 finger, and of a du'ty brown hue. It has an 
 omnivorous appetite, with a special weakness 
 for silk dresses, boots, kid gloves, and the 
 leather binding-s of books. The ants are
 
 38 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 equally omnivorous, and their pertinacity no- 
 thing can balk. They always found out our 
 box of provisions, and do what we would there 
 was always a stream of them coming and 
 going to it, finding their way somehow even 
 into the tightly fitting tin cases inside it. 
 They are so dreadfully industrious that they 
 work all night. I found them just as busy at 
 two o'clock, three o'clock, and four o'clock in 
 the night, as during any other hours of the 
 twenty-four. It is owing to baratas and ants 
 that ancient documents are said to be things 
 unknown in the Brazils. A century at most 
 completes the span of life of records of all 
 descriptions. There is absolutely no chance 
 of unearthing some store of forgotten letters 
 or other papers from some newly discovered 
 hiding place, for the ' bichos ' will long ago 
 have digested them. Every member of the 
 animal and insect world in this country is called 
 a ' bicho.' Everything is a ' bicho ' (bee-co) 
 from a mosquito to an ostrich, the term bemg a 
 much more comprehensive one than the ' bug ' 
 of the United States. The ordinary house-fly
 
 'biciios' 39 
 
 of England, expanded under the favourable 
 conditions of tropical life almost to the dimen- 
 sions of a blue-bottle, stands quite in the first 
 rank of objectionable 'bichos.' His imper 
 tinence and familiarity, combined with the 
 excessive number of his relations, always ren- 
 dered every meal simply a physical struggle. 
 The spiders are, many of them, very beautiful, 
 and some of them simply gigantic. One day 
 I was walkino; aloncj a narrow boulder- strewn 
 road towards the sea, and on looking up 
 almost said, ' What ! telegraph wires down 
 this way ! ' but before the words had passed 
 my lips I looked again, and saw that they 
 were the telegraphic lines of a huge spider, a 
 fine striped beast sitting at the end waiting 
 for news. 
 
 The beetle family are numerous, and many 
 of them are very beautiful, their iridescent 
 coats of various metallic colours makins; them 
 gleam like gems. The king of the tribe, as to 
 size, is here sketched, but in colour he is unin- 
 teresting, being of a rusty black hue. 
 
 All kinds of strange bichos, attracted by
 
 40 
 
 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 the lamp light, came in after dusk at our open 
 windows ; one of them was the praying mantis 
 ([jidvrLg — soothsayer), about which many 
 legends are current. It is supposed from its 
 praying attitude to act as a kind of guardian 
 angel which leads lost travellers home, but in 
 
 GEEAT BRAZILIAN BEETLE (LIFE SIZE). 
 
 truth its ways are not saintly at all. Those 
 deceptive arms, clasped as if in prayer, are 
 powerful weapons of destruction, freely used for 
 the slaying of every sort and kind of the smaller 
 bichos, even frogs and lizards not escaping this 
 bloodthirsty little creature. The butterflies are 
 splendid fellows, all glorious in colour, sailing
 
 ' BICIiOS ' 41 
 
 about in the brightest sunlight and adding 
 greatly to the beauty of the gay flowers they 
 light on. Great azure- winged butterflies, eight 
 inches from tip to tip, and many other sorts 
 of giant size, their lovely plumage vying even 
 with that of the humming birds, resplendent 
 though their raiment is, as they glitter and 
 glance in the sunlight. 
 
 PRAYING MANTIS. 
 
 One has to be very careful in handling 
 branches of trees and shrubs, as most of them 
 are armed with large sharp thorns, while m 
 'others the bark grows in knife-like ridges 
 which cut sharply into the flesh if grasped. 
 At Tijuca we first came across the mango ; 
 it is a fruit to be enjoyed in private, for it is 
 juicy, and sticky, and runs about in an un-
 
 4 2 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 seemly fashion. ' I like to eat mangoes in my 
 bath/ said an American friend to me ; ' they 
 run about too much elsewhere.' We made an 
 excursion one day on ponies to the peak of 
 Tijuca, where we obtained a magnificent view 
 of the bay of Rio and the grand range of the 
 Organ Mountains. The way to the peak, all 
 but the last bit of it, wound up through the 
 woods. Beautiful creepers hung their tresses 
 in profusion from the trees. Orchids grew in 
 and out among the branches, but for the most 
 part out of reach. They affix themselves so 
 tenaciously that even a well-directed brick-bat 
 will not dislodge them. The only way to get 
 at them is to take a small black boy out with 
 one to climb the trees. On our way up, my 
 wife espied on a tree trunk what looked at 
 first sight like a mouse. She dismounted in 
 order to transfer it to her tin collecting box. 
 Immediately she took hold of it — luckily with 
 a gloved hand — she gave a slight scream ; the 
 caterpillar — for caterpillar it was, and is here 
 drawn — sent a sharp shock of electricity, or 
 something like it, through her. Her hand was
 
 ' BICHOS ' 
 
 43 
 
 painful for tlie rest of the day. We learnt 
 afterwards that if this bicho is touched with the 
 unprotected hand, both hand and arm swell 
 up, causing much pain, sometimes accom- 
 panied for a day or two, by fever. 
 
 About two miles from Tijuca, on the side 
 
 CATEEPILLAB (LIFE SIZE). 
 
 towards the Atlantic, and well worthy of a visit, 
 are several boulders of enormous size piled one 
 upon another. Some of them are so poised 
 that they afford a sort of shelter, and from 
 this the place is known by the name of the 
 caverns. The largest boulder covers a space 
 sixty feet long by forty-five feet wide, tilted
 
 44 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 just high enough to admit of one's walking 
 underneath. It has been much disputed as to 
 whether these boulders are erratic boulders 
 transported by ice action, or whether they 
 may be accounted for by water channels only. 
 They are composed of a soft granite, and in 
 any colder country would long centuries 
 ago have been destroyed by the forces of frost 
 and ice.
 
 45 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 THE BRAZILIAN. 
 
 From Tijuca we went down to Rio, crossed 
 the bay nine miles by steamer, and crept up 
 the steep mountain-side by rail to Petropolis, 
 getting glorious views of the bay of Rio, with 
 the surrounding mountains, as we ascended. 
 Petropolis is a fashionable watering-place, 
 with smart houses and well-kept roads ; the 
 population is remarkably free from duskiness, 
 and generally prides itself upon its European 
 aspect. The Emperor has a country palace 
 here, in which he resides during most of the 
 summer. He has much endeared himself to 
 his people by his simple mode of life and unos- 
 tentatious, unceremonious, democratic ways. 
 
 In Brazil one is expected to know every- 
 thing intuitively. Inquiries are of no avail.
 
 46 
 
 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 At the best hotel at Petropolis ' they had no 
 time-tables of the trains. They did not know 
 when the diligence started, or anything we 
 wanted to know. They did not even know 
 
 CASCATINA, NEAR PETROPOLIS. 
 
 the cost of a telegram to Rio, and seemed 
 quite surprised at the inquiry being made. 
 At the post-office they were out of post-cards 
 and foreign stamps. The post-box for the 
 whole town was not much bigger than a tea-
 
 THE BRAZILIAN 47 
 
 caddy, and when a letter was dropped in, the 
 post-master came out as if to survey the person 
 who could be so strange as to write one. The 
 middle-class Brazilian was in great force at 
 Petropolis. He seems to be a most illiterate 
 person. Book shops are almost unknown, 
 newspapers even are rare, and as poor as they 
 are rare. On two occasions only did I see 
 Brazilians reading books ; one was a professor 
 at Pernambuco University, the other was a 
 student preparing for an examination. 
 
 The Brazilian father and mother Hve with 
 their children always about them, and spoil 
 them to the utmost. A BraziUan child 
 is worse than a mosquito on the war j^ath. 
 Brazilian houses have no nurseries, and, as it 
 is considered cruel to put the poor little deai's 
 to bed dui'ing the day, one has the pleasure 
 of their company without any intermission. 
 One may be coming down stairs m a hurry 
 and find the landing blocked by an admirmg 
 group, much too absorbed to let one pass, 
 gathered round some little bellowing parcel 
 dressed like an exhibition doll. The dining-
 
 48 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 room is generally the favourite resort of these 
 favoured little mortals, and their hunting- 
 ground, par excellence ; there, when not em- 
 ployed in devouring whatever they can get 
 hold of, they run races round the table and 
 criticise the ' Inglesi.' There were four chil- 
 dren in one family ranging in age from eight- 
 een months to seven years. These all dined 
 with their parents at seven o'clock. There 
 were two attendants to look after these chil- 
 dren — a very exceptional thing — whose atten- 
 tion was entirely concentrated at the com- 
 mencement of each meal upon the baby, who 
 always objected with much screaming and 
 gurgling to having soup poured- down its 
 throat ; the soup once safely disposed of by 
 means of some good slaps on the back, this 
 youngster partook of a few odds and ends and 
 was carried out. Then attention was given to 
 the next two, whose mouths were just on a 
 level with the table. These plied their knives 
 and fists with a skill which was clearly in- 
 herent. It was an unlovely sight, but one 
 could not help gazing and wondering what
 
 THE BRAZILIAN 49 
 
 would happen next. During the interval 
 between the courses the two, aged four and 
 six years old, took runs round the room as 
 long as they were able, then gradually suc- 
 cumbed and were in turn carried out in a 
 comatose state on the nurse's shoulders. The 
 eldest struggled manfully to the end, never 
 missing anything till he too was hors de 
 combat. After dinner they quickly revived, 
 ran riot in the balconies, took the most com- 
 fortable rocking chairs, and banged out with 
 the most irritating iteration one bar of music 
 on the piano. They certainly were enfants 
 terribles, but children in the English sense do 
 not exist m Brazil. The smallest girls had 
 bangles and bracelets, and boys at eight have 
 their cigarettes. I came across a batch of 
 boys returning from school one afternoon. 
 One little fellow, apparently about seven years 
 of age, turned out of his pockets a collection 
 of sweets, oranges, and cigarettes, in which he 
 indulged by turns. No one seemed to ex- 
 press the slightest disapproval of so small a 
 boy smoking. The language some of these 
 
 E .
 
 50 ZEPHYEUS 
 
 little boys use is appalling, though I must 
 admit I consider that (like the London cab- 
 men) they are for the most part unconscious 
 that they are using bad language at all. 
 Games seem to be unknown to them. The 
 only sort of play they ever take part in is 
 leap-frog, and in this but occasionally. The 
 Brazilian ladies get extremely fat at a very 
 early age, from the indolence engendered by 
 the climate. Their husbands in most cases 
 follow suit. 
 
 Fat is regarded as a beauty, and a young 
 girl is considered hardly marriageable unless 
 her bones are well covered. At twenty they 
 are rather good-looking, but later will not 
 bear criticism. Jewellery in the form of 
 diamonds and emeralds (especially diamonds) 
 is worn in profusion at all times. The 
 women would seem from the wealth of 
 diamonds they display to wear their whole 
 fortunes upon their persons. Indeed, to be 
 entirely without such ornaments is regarded 
 as not at all comme il faut. 
 
 Amongst the Brazilians, if one admires
 
 THE BRAZILIAN 51 
 
 anything, it is good manners for the owner to 
 offer it to the person who expresses admira- 
 tion. The worst of it is that such an offer 
 is not always taken as an empty compliment. 
 A young Englishman, who Avas not quite 
 aware of this, was showing liis handsome new 
 watch to a Brazilian who greatly admired it. 
 Whereupon the owner with true Brazilian 
 politeness said that it was entirely at his 
 friend's service, the result of which was that 
 with a most polite bow the Brazilian pocketed 
 the watch. On another occasion we heard of 
 the embarrassments of a young bachelor who 
 was roughing it at a small estancia (farm) up- 
 country. He had been setting forth in glow- 
 ing colours the many charms of his estancia 
 to a Brazilian widow who was the mother of 
 a numerous progeny. Upon her expressing 
 admiration, he, in the Brazilian manner, said 
 that it was entirely at her service. To his 
 horror, a few days after his return, she arrived 
 with all her children, servants, and bao-o-ao-e. 
 
 When travelling by the ' bond ' it is eti- 
 quette for gentlemen to pay for the tickets of
 
 52 ZEPHYEUS 
 
 any ladies of the party, however slight may 
 be the acquaintanceship. At table, it is not 
 etiquette for a Brazilian lady to help herself to 
 wine until she has been offered it by a gentle- 
 man ; and this applies as between perfect 
 strangers. I was often forgetful of this, and 
 I fear many of the Brazilian ladies resented 
 my want of gallantry. If one borrows a small 
 sum of money from a Brazilian, repayment 
 is regarded as an insult. I was very natu- 
 rally unaware of this, and when we landed at 
 the Isla de Flores, having no change in the 
 money of the country, I borrowed a dollar of 
 a Brazilian fellow-passenger to give to the 
 men who hauled up our baggage. Three days 
 later I procured some change, and when I, 
 with many thanks for his loan, tendered my 
 friend a dollar in repayment, he would not 
 take it, and appeared to be quite insulted. I 
 think his good feelings towards me never quite 
 recovered from the shock I occasioned him. 
 
 The Brazilians are a very dressy people. 
 The humblest of them on gala days turn out 
 attired in great magnificence.
 
 THE BRAZILIAN 53 
 
 Men and women who on ordinary days 
 wear the shabbiest and dirtiest old clothes, 
 appear on any festive occasion in the most 
 spotless attire. We were much struck by this 
 on board ship. Most of our Brazilian fellow- 
 passengers made no efforts whatever to pre- 
 serve a comely appearance during the voyage. 
 They let their hair get frowsy, wore dirty linen 
 and the most horrible old clothes, and generally 
 were very much down at heel. But when we 
 came into port, and visitors were received on 
 board, or the passengers went on shore, toilets 
 were made as if for a weddins::. The chan^'e in 
 their appearance might be compared to that of 
 a butterfly issuing from the grub state. The 
 wonder to us was, how people who could get 
 themselves up with such perfect finish and neat- 
 ness, could endure at other times to live in 
 such a state of detestable grubbiness. When 
 talking with a Brazilian of the chance of our 
 having to undergo quarantine, he said that 
 we should not be kept long, the third class- 
 passengers might be detained eight days, but 
 the others would probably be let out in three.
 
 54 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 I asked why they should make any difference. 
 ' Oh ! ' was the reply, ' the first and second 
 class passengers only wear their shirts a 
 week, but the third class wear theirs a 
 month.' This may explain a good deal. In 
 their houses the place of honour is the sofa, 
 on either side of which, placed in most con- 
 spicuous positions, two spittoons are always to 
 be seen, one on each side. 
 
 Frequent complaints are heard of English 
 manufacturers and merchants losing: their busi- 
 ness connections with South America. This 
 is true enough as to all kinds of clothing and 
 the lighter kinds of household goods. The 
 reasons for the loss of the markets by English- 
 men are not far to seek. It is the old difficulty 
 that they do not sufficiently study the require- 
 ments of the people they serve. On the whole 
 of our journey we met only one English com- 
 mercial traveller, and, if I may be pardoned 
 the bull, he was a Scotchman. I found that 
 he could talk both Spanish and Portuguese 
 fluently (a necessity for a commercial traveller 
 in these parts), having learnt at a small expense
 
 THE BRAZILIAN 55 
 
 in some public institution in Glasgow. He 
 was, however, travelling first class while 
 German commercial travellers were travelling 
 second class. The English merchants send 
 their price lists by the ton to South America, 
 but do not send ' travellers,' and the shop- 
 keepers cannot buy well from mere lists, how- 
 ever well got up. They naturally prefer the 
 commercial traveller with his goods, the man 
 who will come again next year, whom they 
 can remonstrate with personally if necessary. 
 The result of this want of actual contact 
 is that our manufacturers fail to meet the 
 real requirements of the people. The South 
 American, living in a glorious climate, does not 
 want clothes that will wear for ever. He 
 wants showy, bright, cheap goods. They 
 must be cheap, for of late the import duties 
 have been raised to lind the wherewithal to 
 pay for railways and numerous other internal 
 improvements. As wages and incomes have 
 not risen with the increased taxes levied on 
 imported manufactures, an opportunity has 
 been afforded — mainly taken advantage of by
 
 56 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 the Germans — of producing an inferior 
 description of goods, which, after payment of 
 the heavy duties, can still be sold at the old 
 prices. To facilitate the sale of these inferior 
 articles, English makes and trade-marks have 
 been extensively plagiarised. We came across 
 many palpable forgeries — Royal Windsor soap 
 of manifest German origin ; plates and cups 
 stamped with rude travesties of the Royal arms, . 
 some with the motto misprinted as ' Honi sot 
 qui maly pense ; ' piece goods with ' Horrocks ' 
 clearly forged. Some English merchants say 
 they would rather lose their trade than send 
 out such poor stuif, but this is eminently 
 foolish, as what is good enough for the con- 
 suming Brazilian is surely good enough for 
 the producing Englishman. The climate, too, 
 as I have said, is an important consideration, 
 and where it is ' always afternoon,' goods of 
 the most flimsy texture will serve quite as well 
 as if not better than goods of a much more 
 durable description do, in a climate such as 
 ours at home. A smart dressy people do% not 
 want things that will never wear out ; they
 
 THE BRAZILIAN 57 
 
 would never be in the flisliion if tliey had them. 
 The exceeding desire of the Brazilians for dress 
 is shown in the fact, of which I was assured 
 by many who know them well, that they 
 prefer to stint themselves in food, rather than 
 spare money upon their garments. I am in- 
 clined to think that sham trade-marks have 
 comparatively little to do with the success of 
 German goods, and that the low prices, com- 
 bined with the sharp pushing ways of German 
 commercial travellers, who are thrifty and 
 self-denying to a fault, and who, from actual 
 contact, know the needs of the people whom 
 they serve, are the true causes of the goods they 
 offer meeting with a ready sale. If the English 
 merchant is to recover lost ground, or even to 
 hold his own, he must find inexpensive com- 
 mercial travellers who will bring him into 
 touch with distant customers. The incredibly 
 economical and many-languaged continental 
 ' commercial ' fruo-al and unwasteful in all his 
 ways, is now ' stepping round,' and by his 
 nimbleness oustino; Eno-lish merchants and 
 English workmen from many valuable markets.
 
 58 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 CHAPTER YII. 
 
 SANTOS TO SAN PAULO. 
 
 On our homeward voyage we landed at Santos, 
 which lies about a day's sail south of Rio. 
 Ships approach the harbour by a winding 
 estuary, wooded on either bank to the water's 
 edge. Palms and every kind of tropical vege- 
 tation grow luxuriantly in the swampy low 
 ground. Here and there, at the foot of a lofty 
 palm by the water's edge, we observed the 
 rude whitewashed hovel of some black culti- 
 vator, who must, one would imagine, be ever 
 running the gauntlet between fever and ague. 
 Shortly after passing a little ancient fort 
 standing on a wooded bluff, we cast anchor 
 before Santos. The town spreads out on the 
 low ground below the mountains, which rise 
 range on range behind it right against the 
 western sky.
 
 SANTOS TO SAN PAULO 
 
 59 
 
 As the sun was just going down when 
 the quarantine officers came off and gave us 
 leave to land, we decided to defer gomg ashore 
 until next day. We made arrangements for 
 an early start, and three of us left the ship's 
 side next mornmg as the clocks of Santos 
 were telling across the silent water the hour 
 
 -*t*T- 
 
 -_ '1^^ 
 
 SANTOS. 
 
 of four. The darkness was only relieved by 
 the faint light of the stars, Mars shining in 
 glorious splendour in the west. It took us full 
 half an hour to reach the shore. The intense 
 silence, which precedes the rise of the fiery 
 tropical sun, was unbroken save by the 
 rhythmic sound of the oars in the rowlocks 
 and their plash in the placid waters. We
 
 60 
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 reached the landing steps just as the first rays 
 of dawn shot upward in the east. Yet but a 
 few minutes later the town was flooded with 
 sunlight as we walked through the streets 
 to the station. 
 
 Though few of the inhabitants were stir- 
 ring, the clean well-kept look of the streets, 
 and the smart attractive appearance of the 
 houses, betokened considerable prosperity. 
 Santos is unquestionably a fortunate place ; it is 
 the port for all the great coffee district of which 
 San Paulo is the centre. The San Paulo 
 railway, and the large traffic it brings, has 
 added greatly to the wealth of the people. In 
 addition to being the port of a rich district, 
 it enjoys the advantage of having no rivals 
 southwards in Brazilian territory ; Santa 
 Catharina, Porto Alegre, and Rio Grande, 
 the only harbours to the south, having sand 
 bars which render them inaccessible save to 
 ships of the smallest tonnage. With such ad- 
 vantages it is no wonder that Santos bears out- 
 ward and visible signs of the prosperity of its 
 people. Santos and San Paulo and the other
 
 SANTOS TO SAN PAULO 61 
 
 towns in the temperate latitudes of Brazil 
 seemed to me to show clear signs of real 
 visrorous m-owth, while all the cities north- 
 wards, in tropical Brazil, seemed to have a 
 look of fla":«:in£^, as if some canker were 
 gnawing at their vitals. 
 
 I should not mean to imply that Europeans 
 do not thrive and thrive well in equatorial 
 Brazil, but they must be drawn from the 
 classes who do not labour with their hands. 
 Coloured labour onlv can survive outdoor 
 work, and coloured labour is inefficient. 
 Europeans who lead sedentary indoor lives, 
 the merchant and the clerk, protected from 
 the sun's rays, may prosper greatly, if not 
 too numerous, but they have to contend 
 against the inertia of the coloured outdoor 
 workers who are too easily content, and where 
 the very ' workers ' are themselves ' idlers,' 
 there can be but a languid prosperity for the 
 country they live in. 
 
 We arrived at the station in time, as we 
 hoped, to get some breakfast before starting, 
 but there was no refreshment room to be
 
 62 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 found. Luckily, outside the station there was 
 a coffee-stall for early workmen, where black 
 coffee and a dry roll could be obtained. As 
 I had prudently (in case of ill-luck) brought 
 away from the ship three eggs in my pocket, 
 we were able, each of us, to have an egg beaten 
 up in our coffee. But just as the beating up 
 was proceeding before an admiring crowd of 
 a dozen working men, a cow happened to be 
 driven by; so, borrowing a mug from the stall 
 keeper, we proceeded to enter into negotiations 
 for the purchase of some milk. These termi- 
 nating successfully, the cow was milked in the 
 presence of the spectators, who watched our 
 proceedings with keen interest and evident 
 amusement. With this further addition to 
 our supplies we breakfasted excellently, and 
 were able, not only to hold out till we reached 
 San Paulo at one o'clock, but to enjoy our 
 journey thither, which was of real importance 
 to us. 
 
 After running for about an hour through 
 swampy land, mostly in cultivation and bear- 
 ing the most prolific crops, interspersed Avith
 
 SANTOS TO SAN PAULO 63 
 
 bits of tangled virgin forest, the train stopped 
 and the engine was uncoupled. Steel ropes 
 were attached to the carriages, and one by 
 one they were drawn up the steep incline 
 by fixed engines. The carriages were un- 
 hooked and recoupled at the several landing 
 stages with great rapidity, and forwarded one 
 after the other from stage to stage, without 
 any appreciable delay. Of the forest scenery, 
 as we crept slowly up the mountain- side, I 
 can only say that it should be seen. Our 
 conversation was one long series of ejacu- 
 lations of surprised delight. Here, with a soil 
 largely composed of the richest vegetable 
 mould, the product of the decayed vegetation 
 of long centuries, combined with heavy dews 
 by night and a blazing sun by day, the exu- 
 berant o-rowth of the trees and flowers is such 
 as is quite undreamt of by those who know our 
 own land only. Why do not people come and 
 see these things — only a three weeks' voyage 
 from our shores ? And yet they do not come. 
 Business men and business people only as yet 
 travel this way.
 
 64 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 San Paulo is situated on the top of a lofty 
 ridge in the midst of a wide elevated plateau of 
 undulating hills. From an artistic point of 
 view it is finely placed, but from more mundane 
 aspects might be more conveniently situated. 
 It is a large and thriving city, favoured with 
 a cooler temperature than Rio and the cities 
 further north, and surrounded by rich valleys 
 productive of vast supplies of coffee and sugar. 
 The streets and houses have a thoroughly 
 business-like look. There is very little dis- 
 play made in the shop windows, to tempt 
 the casual passer-by. They are rather in the 
 nature of stores than shops, making little 
 external show, yet able within to furnish 
 supphes suited to the wants of, and sufficient 
 for, a very large population. The main streets 
 run along the crest of the ridge on which the 
 city is built, and as one walks along them, one 
 gets peeps through the cross streets which de- 
 scend somewhat abruptly on either side of the 
 hill, right out into the country, undulating for 
 miles away, and bounded in the far distance 
 by the beautiful blue mountains. The city is
 
 SANTOS TO SAN PAULO 65 
 
 well equipped with tramways, running some 
 miles out, of which we made good use. Built 
 upon a spur of the hill is the palace, now 
 chiefly used for Government offices. In front 
 lies a terraced garden with a grand overlook 
 upon the mountainous western plateau, and 
 whichever way one turns one's eyes, there 
 are scenes well worth gazing at. Hither in 
 the evening at sunset time, come young and 
 old, fathers and mothers, young men and 
 maidens, the burghers of San Paulo and their 
 families. And here in the balmy, mountain 
 air, the military band flings out its bright 
 music under the soft light of the new moon. 
 
 We arose at four o'clock to make the 
 fourteen hours' journey by rail to Rio. The 
 train left at six, and the carriasfes — the longf 
 open cars of the United States — were well 
 filled ; the Brazilians dressed, as always for 
 a journey, in irreproachable attire. 
 
 Then came one of those transformation 
 scenes — common to the railways of the Eiver 
 Plate alike — which are so strange at first to 
 the newcomer, the sudden donning of white 
 
 F
 
 66 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 garments by the whole of the passengers. 
 The guard whistles, the engine gives a shriek 
 and a puff, and the carriages move slowly off ; 
 then in a twinkling the costume of civilised 
 life disappears as if by magic, and one finds 
 oneself in the midst of serried ranks of ghostly 
 forms clad from top to toe in spotless white 
 array. The effect at first is surprising and 
 peculiar, and, strange as it is, the cause of this 
 weird guise is intensely rational and a little 
 commonplace. It is simply a precaution 
 against the clouds of dust which permeate the 
 carriages with a persistency that nothing can 
 baffle. Dust penetrates every corner and every 
 thing. A seat left unoccupied for a few 
 minutes is at once covered by a thin but 
 very palpable layer of finely granulated par- 
 ticles, white, dun, buff, or red, as the geo- 
 logical stratum through which one passes 
 may chance to be. At the journey's end all 
 the dust-coats are put away for the next 
 journey, and the passengers descend in the 
 most perfect toilets to greet their friends. We 
 were running all day long through open high
 
 SANTOS TO SAN PAULO 67 
 
 rocky land, forests, and rich valleys, from San 
 Paulo to Rio, the valleys bearing splendid 
 crops of coffee, sugar, maize, and vines. At 
 a wayside station we purchased some fresh 
 sugar-cane and spent some time in gnawing 
 it. We found it stringy and sweet. How the 
 black population can find it so intensely fasci- 
 nating I can hardly understand. They will sit 
 by the hour together in a hot corner munching 
 away at sugar-cane, some of them becoming 
 little better than parasites of the plant they 
 devour with so much satisfaction. 
 
 For the last two hours of our journey we 
 were rapidly descending from the high level of 
 the Organ Mountains to Rio. Away in front 
 of us the sun was setting, and the pink and 
 golden hues of the mountain peaks, set round 
 the bay of Rio, which looked like a sapphire 
 in their midst, deepened into crimson and 
 purple as the sun went down. As we once 
 more alighted in Rio, the new moon like a 
 white pinion rose over the peak of Tijuca. 
 
 F 2
 
 68 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 SLAVERY. 
 
 Brazil is half as large again as Russia in 
 Europe, with a population only one-seventh of 
 that of Russia. Continental in point of size, 
 her population, mostly black, numbers only 
 12,000,000. This population is distributed 
 in a broad fringe along the coast, dwelling 
 thickly about the harbours, and becoming 
 sparser as one advances into the heart of the 
 country. Three hundred miles from the coast, 
 Brazil is still ' trackless Brazil,' the abode of 
 scattered tribes of native Indians, and for the 
 most part utterly unknown to the Brazilians 
 themselves. Owing to the population being 
 thus distributed, one can, without making 
 lengthened inland journeys, obtain very fair 
 data for formuig some opinion as to the con-
 
 SLAVERY 69 
 
 dition of the country. What forced itself 
 upon my attention more than anything else, 
 was the marked way in which the country im- 
 proves as one goes southwards. The north- 
 ern cities seem to be strucro-lino; to hold their 
 own. Humanity in equatorial Brazil seems 
 to be nerveless and unstrung; exhausted in 
 the mere effort to exist under the touch of 
 the flaming sword of the sun. The lassitude 
 of human beings was reflected in their cities ; 
 the sap, as it were, seemed flowing intermit- 
 tently and in insufficient quantity to maintain 
 the body politic in a healthy condition. 
 
 But as we went south the chanofe was 
 ver}^ apparent. Inertia gave place to vitality ; 
 stagnation and decay to gi'owth ; while the 
 complexion of the population shaded off by 
 very perceptible degrees, from black almost to 
 white. In the four southern provinces, which 
 in area are but one-twelfth of the whole of 
 Brazil, dwell no less than one-fourth of the 
 population, and that the most energetic, the 
 most healthy, and the most free from black 
 blood.
 
 70 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 The whole fabric of Brazilian government 
 clearly seems to rest on these three millions 
 — mostly white — dwelling without, or almost 
 without, the tropics, and occupying but a 
 fragment of this vast empire ; and on their 
 enterprise, progress, and vitality would seem 
 to depend the whole future prosperity of Brazil. 
 
 The Brazilian upper classes are the descen- 
 dants of Portuguese and Spanish. Life in the 
 tropics and a certain admixture of black blood 
 have not improved the race. These constitute 
 the landowners and the well-to-do classes. 
 The rest of the people either are or have until 
 lately been slaves, or are the not remote 
 descendants of slaves. The tide of European 
 emigration which sets to South America passes 
 by Brazil. Shunning all contact with the 
 dark-skinned half-breeds of Brazil, the white 
 population of Europe make as with one accord 
 for the River Plate. The free white will not 
 settle amongst the degenerate mixed ; breeds 
 of the tropics. The white of unmixed race 
 seems to' shrink from all contact with the black 
 blood. A natural instinct seems to guide them
 
 SLAVERY 71 
 
 past these shores, for intermarriage of the 
 children of the white man with the mixed 
 race of the country is the sure penalty of 
 halting here. 
 
 The slaves of Brazil are gradually being 
 emancipated ; but there are still about 
 1,500,000 slaves in the country, most of 
 whom are employed in the coffee plantations. 
 As every excuse is made in order to avoid 
 complying with the law of emancipation, it 
 will be many years before the last slave is free. 
 The law of emancipation is in some ways 
 rather a doubtful boon to the slaves. For 
 example, slaves are entitled to their freedom 
 at sixty years of age. So that after a slave 
 has given all the best years of his life to his 
 employer, he is then entitled to the doubtful 
 privilege of relying for his support upon him- 
 self for the rest of his days. This mocking way 
 of granting freedom seems calculated to benefit 
 the master rather than the slave. Slavery has 
 been, and must continue to be, long after it 
 ceases to exist as an institution, a curse to the 
 country. Cruelty and slavery seem to be linked
 
 72 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 together indissolubly, and emancipation does 
 not much mend matters, for the ill-used slave 
 only gives place to the idle black with his low 
 morals. Cruelty to slaves takes many forms, 
 not the least being that of feeding them upon 
 insufficient food of the coarsest description. 
 Slaves are generally fed like animals, on boiled 
 barley meal or beans, just tipped into a trough, 
 the fastest eater getting the largest share. A 
 new manager from the United States recently 
 came to a coffee plantation near Rio. He con- 
 sidered that the rations of the slaves were in- 
 sufficient in quantity and he obtained leave 
 to double them. Finding that they were still 
 underfed for their work, he with some difficulty 
 obtained leave to double their rations a second 
 time. It was not until they had thus obtained 
 four times their former amount of sustenance 
 that they were sufficiently fed. 
 
 While we were at Rio a mistress whipped 
 two of her girl slaves so severely that one of 
 them died. The local English newspaper, com- 
 menting upon this barbarity, said : ' It would 
 seem that these two girls have been subjected
 
 SLAVERY 73 
 
 to the most barbarous tortures for the last three 
 years, of which beatings have been the least 
 cruel of all. One of them has died from her in- 
 juries, while the other is disfigured and injured 
 for life. What punishment will be meted out by 
 the authorities for these illegal and inhuman 
 cruelties cannot easily be predicted, for it has 
 thus far been the custom to make a pretence 
 of investigation and then to quietly hush up 
 the whole matter. So far as we know there is 
 not a single case on record where a master has 
 been punished for cruelty to his slaves.' I 
 asked a friend who knew the country well if 
 many slaves died of cruelty, ' Not more than 
 one in ten,' he replied. 
 
 The dusky natives certainly suit the colour- 
 ing of their surroundings better than the whites, 
 but they are not an industrious race. As long 
 as they have cotton enough for a garment, a 
 little rice or maize to eat, some tobacco and 
 mate — all of which they can obtain at a very 
 small expenditure of labour — they are abso- 
 lutely content, and nothing will induce them to 
 further exert themselves. They do not care
 
 74 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 to use their hands at all if they can help 
 it, and seem to regard them as merely orna- 
 mental appendages. When carrying even a 
 cup of water, they place it upon their heads in 
 preference to carrying it in their hands. The 
 coffee planters have to a large extent met 
 the diminishing supply of slave labour by 
 additional and improved machinery; and they 
 have been so far successful in this, that in 
 the last seven years, although the export of 
 coffee from Rio and Santos has risen from three 
 million to eight million bags annually, I was 
 assured that this increase has been accom- 
 plished without employing additional labour. 
 At one time an effort was made to procure 
 Chinese labour, but the Chinese Government 
 placed difficulties in the way and the project fell 
 through. The need of labour, both more of it 
 and of a better quality, is very visible in the 
 coffee plantations. When once planted they 
 are left too much to nature, and not properly 
 tended. It is, as was remarked to me, ' all 
 plantation and no cultivation.'
 
 75 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 MEANS OF COMMUNICATION. 
 
 The railways of Brazil are a subject of con- 
 siderable interest to English people. They 
 have for the most part been made by English 
 capital, either directly or indirectly from the 
 proceeds of loans to the Brazilian Government. 
 
 MACEIO BULLOCK WAGGON. 
 
 I think that those who know the country 
 best will admit that, on the whole, the rail- 
 ways of Brazil have not been very successful 
 ventures. The San Paulo railway is a marked 
 success. The San Paulo and Rio railway (a
 
 76 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 continuation of tlie San Paulo) has also 
 done well. The Dom Pedro Secundo (an ex- 
 tension of the same system), built and worked 
 by the Government, is understood to yield 
 very satisfactory returns ; as also the Leo- 
 poldina line ; but after making these exceptions, 
 the railways of Brazil, taken on their own 
 merits, and without having regard to the 
 Government guarantees, do not offer great 
 encouragement to investors. As they have all 
 been built either by the Government or by the 
 aid of a Government guarantee, there is every 
 reason why they should have been laid out 
 upon an intelligent plan. This unfortunately 
 has not been the case. 
 
 When a Government grants concessions 
 accompanied by valuable guarantees, thereby 
 assuring the building of the line guaranteed, 
 irrespective of its real need to the community, 
 every place puts in its claim for a line of rail- 
 way. Pressure, political and otherwise, is 
 brought to bear upon the Government to grant 
 concessions for this place and that place ; 
 without regard to the real commercial wants
 
 MEANS OF COMMUNICATION 77 
 
 of the country. A Ministry may be tempted 
 to concede a guarantee for a particular line of 
 railway in order to propitiate a particular dis- 
 trict and gain votes. If afterwards the rail- 
 way is found not to pay and not to be likely to 
 pay, from being in the wrong place, it cannot 
 be regarded as very surprising. I can hardly 
 imairine more difficult o;round for a Home 
 Government to tread upon than that of gua- 
 ranteeing new railway ventures in a country 
 of such huo-e extent as Brazil. It would be 
 difficult for Brazil to get her railways made 
 without any guarantee ; for, being a mountain- 
 ous country, the engineering difficulties are 
 considerable. Still many of them ought not 
 to have cost the sums that have been spent 
 upon them. Railways in the Argentine 
 Repubhc can be built for from 5,000/. to 
 6,000/. a mile, but m Brazil a fair price is from 
 10,000/. to 12,000/. a mile. These figures have 
 in many cases been largely exceeded in both 
 countries. One of the evils of the guarantee 
 system is that, if the guaranteeing country 
 is fairly trustworthy, investors subscribe upon
 
 78 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 the strength of the guarantee, without con- 
 sidering whether the railway is hkely to be a 
 success upon its own merits, all questions of 
 this kind being supposed by them to be care- 
 fully weighed by the guaranteeing Govern- 
 ment, quite regardless of the fact that motives 
 other than purely business ones may have 
 influenced the Government when sanctioning 
 the guarantee. Again, when once a railway is 
 built and working with the assistance of a 
 Government guarantee, there is not the same 
 motive for keeping down expenses, as the 
 guarantee comes in to make good all defici- 
 encies in income. High working expenses 
 are not however the result solely of easily 
 earned guarantees, but are partly due to the 
 extravagant requirements of the guaranteeing 
 Government in the way of a numerous railway 
 staff. Numbers of stations in Brazil rejoice 
 in a station master, booking clerk, cashier, 
 porters, and so on, when a single porter to 
 load up trucks as goods come in, and attach 
 them to the trains, would be all that the 
 traffic really warrants ; passengers of course
 
 MEANS OF COMMUNICATION 79 
 
 under such circumstances being supplied with 
 tickets by the guard of the train. 
 
 The total capital of the railways in Brazil, 
 on which interest at the rate of from 6 to 
 7 per cent, has been guaranteed, amounted 
 in 1882 to 18,000,000^. It is believed that 
 it costs the Government about three-quarters 
 of a million to meet the railway guarantees, 
 and that it is liable for as much again upon 
 incomplete or unmade roads. The Government 
 has recently been cancellmg somewhat arbi- 
 trarily some of these too readily granted gua- 
 ranteed concessions. When it is remembered 
 that most of the land required for the railways 
 is obtainable for nothing, or for very moderate 
 prices at most, it seems rather suq^rising to 
 find lines costino- as much as 32,000/. a mile. 
 
 The San Paulo Railway, the San Paulo 
 and Rio, and the Dom Pedro Secundo, all 
 part of one system, have succeeded, and not 
 without reason. They go through a district 
 extremely rich in produce and well peopled. 
 Although the district they serve covers only 
 about one- thousandth part of the area of
 
 80 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 Brazil, yet within it dwells one-sixth of the 
 . whole population of the country. 
 
 The Bahia and San Francisco railway is 
 a line which probably would never have been 
 built but for the Government guarantee 
 granted to gain favour with the province. It 
 goes through much barren country and has 
 cost 22,500^. a mile. The dividends are paid 
 out of the guarantee. It seems probable, how- 
 ever, that if the staff at unimportant stations 
 were reduced and the line worked on tho- 
 roughly economical prmciples, it would pay a 
 small dividend, perhaps one or two per cent., 
 independent of the guarantee. It is better, 
 however, for Brazil to build railways that 
 yield no return upon the capital sunk in 
 making them than squander her resources 
 upon useless ships of war, plenty of which 
 may be seen rotting in the bay of Rio. 
 
 Tramways abound and are well patronised. 
 No one who can afford the modest ' bond ' 
 fare thinks of walking, even a few yards. 
 So completely is the ' bond ' a part of exist- 
 ence in the towns and cities, that ' bond ' 
 
 I
 
 MEANS OF COMMUNICATION 81 
 
 tickets are almost part of the small change of 
 these places. They get into circulation by the 
 conductors giving, in lieu of small change, 
 one or more tickets for the ' bond.' These are 
 passed from hand to hand, and in effect are a 
 modern form of the local ' tokens ' of fonner 
 days. The ' bond' is really the greatest pos- 
 sible boon to all classes, for the roads in the 
 towns are so rough and uneven that no feel- 
 ing of dignity arising from proceeding in one's 
 own ' shay,' can at all compensate for the in- 
 cessant bum]iings and j oltings to wliich one is 
 subjected in driving over them. 
 
 Telephones have spread over the land like 
 gossamer threads on a September morning. 
 Not only places of business and hotels but every 
 private house seems to have its apparatus. I 
 suppose one will have to grow accustomed to 
 these things, but they certainly seem to add 
 to the bustle and friction of life rather than 
 to lessen toil. Telephones enable business to 
 follow one home when the day's work should be 
 laid aside. They brook no delay and call one 
 away without remorse in the midst of a shave 
 
 G
 
 82 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 or from one's soup alike. During the busy 
 hours of the day the shrieking of scores of 
 voices reverberating along the wires, makes it 
 impossible at times to hold audible conversa- 
 tion with one's interlocutor at the other end. 
 For communication over moderate distances, 
 telephones have, in South America, quite 
 pushed aside the telegraph. 
 
 I was much amused at watching a small 
 Italian boy at our hotel conversing by tele- 
 phone, who, forgetting that his auditor could 
 not see him, gesticulated with as much vigour 
 as if his very expressive attitudes added force 
 to his words. 
 
 There is as yet no wire direct from Eng- 
 land to South America, and telegrams have 
 consequently to travel round by Portugal^ 
 which renders them costly and increases the 
 chances of error in transmission. This does 
 not, however, prevent telegrams to South 
 America being largely employed by English 
 business men, much to the disgust of many 
 of their ablest agents in that country. ' It is 
 no use thinking for oneself, as in the old days,'
 
 MEANS OF COMMUNICATION 83 
 
 more than one remarked to me ; ' we are now 
 mere agents, told to buy one day and the next 
 day told to hold our hands. All the thinking 
 is done in London or Liverpool. Formerly 
 we learnt to be merchants out here ; now we 
 are mere clerks.' 
 
 Transit by sea to Brazil and the River 
 Plate is carried on by a crowd of shipping 
 companies. Thirty-five years ago the only 
 line to Rio was the Royal Mail, which de- 
 spatched one vessel a month. Those were the 
 palmy days when 9/. or 10/. a ton was paid 
 for freight. At the present time there are 
 450 steamers yearly from European ports to 
 Brazil, and ships are glad to get freights at 
 1/. a ton. At Santos on our return we were 
 ofi'ered a cargo of coffee to be delivered m 
 London at 10s. a ton. As the Royal Mail 
 discharges at Southampton and as the charges 
 from Southampton to London are 7^. 6d. a 
 ton, it is hardly necessary to say that the 
 coffee was not shipped. 
 
 The Royal Mail company long enjoyed a 
 monopoly of the traffic to Brazd ; but for want 
 
 G 2
 
 84 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 of alacrity in meeting the needs of the mer- 
 chants they have gradually lost the bulk of the 
 carrying trade, the greater share of which 
 seems now to have gone to Lamport and 
 Holt's line. The Royal Mail retain the largest 
 share of the passenger traffic, but have not the 
 happy knack of keeping abreast of the times. 
 If a few of their oldest directors were sent 
 upon a trip down the coast of Brazil, several 
 changes would be made which would add 
 greatly to the comfort of travellers. 
 
 To meet the requirements of the shipping 
 traffic vast sums of money have been sunk at 
 Rio upon quays and wharves ; unfortunately 
 to very little purpose. There they stand, these 
 costly quays with splendid steam cranes, and 
 every appliance, but utterly useless. Every- 
 thing is taken from, and brought to, the ship's 
 side by lighters. Regulations of quarantine and 
 other troubles debar vessels from coming along- 
 side and taking advantage of these quays. 
 
 The voyage from Rio to Lisbon usually 
 occupies about a fortnight. In the days of sail- 
 ing vessels, the length of time required to reach
 
 MEANS OF COMMUNICATION 85 
 
 Europe was a very uncertain quantity, as for 
 weeks together a vessel might lie with her 
 sails flapping idly in the Doldrums. Such an 
 undertaking was it in those days, that regular 
 establishments were maintained in Brazil, 
 wherein Brazilian merchants, during their 
 absence, had then- wives safely shut up under 
 lock and key against their return.
 
 86 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 'yellow jack.' 
 
 The most peculiar, and in some respects the 
 most comical, of all our experiences, was 
 our incarceration as ' suspects,' on account of 
 yellow fever, in the Lazaretto, on the Island 
 of Flores, off Monte Video. We had some 
 susjDicion that something of the kind would 
 befal us, but we dismissed it from our minds, 
 regarding it at the worst as the loss of a week 
 of our holiday. However, we did not escape 
 the unpleasant reality by merely making light 
 of it beforehand. We had been in the land of 
 yellow fever, or 'yellow Jack,' as it is com- 
 monly called, and we had accordingly to pay 
 the penalty of a rigid quarantine. Both the 
 Argentine Republic and Uruguay (the Banda 
 Oriental) are in constant fear of its approach-
 
 'yellow jack ' 87 
 
 m<x their shores in summer, and in order to 
 protect and defend themselves against it, 
 quarantine regulations are enforced against all 
 comers from infected places. Their dread of the 
 disease is not surprising, though I confess I 
 think the means they adopt to baffle its coming 
 are not exactly the best suited for the purpose. 
 Yellow fever is to all appearance the same as 
 bilious remittent fever — some poison which 
 causes the bile to flow into the blood — yet some- 
 what akin to cholera in that it haunts localities 
 where heat, filth, stagnant air and stagnant 
 water, with a temperature never falling below 
 70 degrees all the year round, conspire together. 
 Rio is just such a place. The sun blazes 
 fiercely down ; no air stirs ; the temperature 
 remains steady at 85 degrees to 95 degrees in 
 the shade ; no tide cleanses the harbour, the 
 rise and fall not exceeding 4 feet : putrescence 
 of every kind heaves and simmers in the bay 
 it never quits ; while water is insufficient in 
 quantity for flushing the drains, so that they 
 become active generators of disease. If the 
 refuse was carried into the Atlantic or even left
 
 88 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 in the open for the sun and innumerable creep- 
 ino; thino's to deal with it, it would be better 
 than for it to stagnate in the unflushed drains 
 of the baked city emitting malignant vapours 
 at every vent. To these contributory causes 
 must be added the inherent laziness of the true 
 Brazilian, begotten of his tropical existence and 
 leading him to prefer dirt to trouble, and coupled 
 with the indolence of the Brazilian, the utter in- 
 difference to foul surroundings of the coloured 
 population. When all these things are so, 
 what wonder that a hundred deaths a day and 
 more in Rio, from yellow fever, were registered 
 while we were there (1886) ! The wonder is 
 that the disease carried off so few, especially 
 when it is borne in mind that just the last hot 
 days of summer culminate in the pagan ex- 
 cesses of the Carnival. Of this revolting orgie 
 which brings so many easy victims, wrecked 
 in mind and body, into the clutch of yellow 
 fever, a Rio paper thus writes: ' The Carnival 
 amounts simply to this ; the waste of much 
 time and money, the senseless masquerading 
 of the streets in dominoes and hideous masks,
 
 ' YELLOW JACK ' 89 
 
 blowing- trumpets, talking in falsetto voices, 
 and doing grotesque things which "would even 
 shame the monkeys whom it is supposed are 
 being imitated by rational human beings, and 
 then the giving of public balls whose excesses, 
 indecencies and vices, are past all description. 
 Its excesses and vices are subversive of every- 
 thing good and pure. If, however, it is per- 
 mitted as a popular recreation, then why not 
 confine it strictly to that, and place it within 
 bounds which will prevent the moral and 
 physical mjuries which result from its present 
 observance. It is a form of recreation which 
 endangers health through dangerous exposures 
 to the heat of a tropical summer, and which 
 deadens moral perceptions through the open 
 display of vice.' 
 
 Before 1886 the yellow fever had spared 
 the clean and wholesome living European 
 population ; but in that year they were begin- 
 ning to be struck down with the rest. Like 
 a shower of bullets in battle no one could say 
 whose turn would come next. Old and young, 
 strong and weak, black man and white man,
 
 90 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 no one knew how soon he might be called 
 away. The suddenness with which it summons 
 its victims is the terrible side. One apparently 
 in the full vigour of life may be struck down in 
 the morning and before sundown have passed 
 into the very tomb. More like death in battle 
 than the peaceful and quiet summons to die 
 we know at home. So rapid is the burial that 
 friends do not even gather at the grave -side, the 
 custom being for all burial services to be held at 
 the grave the day-week following death. Of all 
 sights, few perhaps are sadder than a plague- 
 smitten ship. When we left Rio, several lay 
 in the Bay dismanned. Everyone on board, 
 from captain to cabin-boy, dead of yellow fever. 
 But for this terrible disease Rio would be a 
 very paradise j and yet it would seem that with 
 cleanliness she might cease to be a pest-house. 
 That cleanliness can exorcise this woful disease 
 is evident from the experience of New Orleans 
 durinff the abolition war. New Orleans had 
 long been the abiding home of yellow fever and 
 a very charnel-house. General Butler captured 
 the city and occupied it with several thousand
 
 'yellow jack' 91 
 
 troops for a long period. The North raised an 
 outcry, declaring that he was destroying his 
 men. But he set his soldiers to cleanse the 
 city. The sewers were cleaned, and every slum 
 and hole and cranny. Refuse of all kinds was 
 destroyed, and severe penalties were attached to 
 any unclean ways. Yellow fever left the city 
 and only gradually returned some years after 
 the occupation was over. Rio, it seems, has 
 taken warning from the repeated visitations of 
 yellow fever, and especially from the wide- 
 spread mortality of 1886, and has so far. stirred 
 herself as to be able to present a clean bill of 
 health in this respect during the past season 
 (1887), no doubt assisted therein, by the fact 
 that those most prone to the disease have 
 been carried to untimely graves. 
 
 This much, is necessary to explain the 
 precautions taken in the River Plate against 
 yellow fever, and our consequent relegation to 
 a lazaretto.
 
 92 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 THE LAZARETTO. 
 
 We cast anchor off the Isla de Flores, fifteen 
 miles from Monte Video, at seven o'clock on a 
 Tuesday morning. My wife and I were the 
 only two first-class passengers who had come 
 from Rio. All the others had come through 
 from ports beyond, and so might quarantine on 
 board the ship in the River Plate — irksome, 
 but nothing more. Our only chance of avoid- 
 ing quarantine on the island was that the 
 lazaretto might be so full that we could not 
 be taken in. 
 
 The Isla de Flores is a mere strip of rock, 
 rising at most twenty feet above the sea level. 
 It is about three-quarters of a mile long, and 
 its average width is about two hundred yards. 
 The only buildings on the island are a light-
 
 THE LAZARETTO 93 
 
 house and a lazaretto. Moored alongside us was 
 another large steamer, which had arrived the 
 day before. We soon learnt that the lazaretto 
 was full, and that there would be no room 
 for us until the next momino^ ; this seemed like 
 a reprieve. It might be that we should be 
 allowed to quarantine on board after all ; but 
 no such luck awaited us. At eight o'clock 
 next mornmg, just as I was taking my final 
 nap and trying to forget the proximity of 
 
 ISLA DE FLOEES. 
 
 Flores Island, we were hurried breakfastless 
 on shore to taste the unknown delights of 
 quarantine. We were crammed like herrings 
 into the boat, grease was on the seats, bilge 
 water was flopping about, horrid little yapping 
 dogs, pets of the emigrants, were rushing con- 
 tinually between our legs, the Spanish and 
 Italian emigrants were all talking at the top 
 of their voices, volubly expressing their disgust
 
 94 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 at the ill-treatment of their boxes and other 
 belongings, parrots were screeching, and a hot 
 sun was pouring its vertical rays mercilessly 
 upon us. However, the journey to the shore 
 was soon over ; we stepped ashore, our boxes 
 were banged down anyhow, and there we were 
 in durance. After much chatter on the part 
 of the untidy, not to say ragged officials, our 
 baggage was loaded in a very leisurely fashion 
 upon a truck, and pushed up to the airing 
 ground which stands about a hundred yards 
 from the landing pier, immediately outside the 
 walls of the court of the lazaretto. The airmg 
 ground is distinguished by a quantity of iron 
 pens, much like those in which sheep are 
 enclosed at markets, extending over about 
 an acre. The object of the pens is to separate 
 the passengers, affording them at the same 
 time rails whereon they may hang out their 
 goods to bake in the sun and air in the 
 breeze. 
 
 The airing immediately commenced. We 
 were instructed to ransack our boxes to the 
 depths and hang out and spread about all their
 
 THE LAZARETTO 
 
 95 
 
 contents. There were at least one Inmdred of 
 us all doing the same thing, and the sight was 
 truly comical. It looked for all the world like an 
 old German fiiir. The clothes-clad railings had 
 much the appearance of booths, and the varied 
 costumes displayed to an admiring crowd — for 
 we all investigated each other's belongings, the 
 women taking the lead — gave quite the appear- 
 ance of an active trade being carried on. It 
 was all done, too, in the most grave and 
 sedate fashion, as if we had been accustomed 
 to the business from our earliest days. The 
 novelty of a mutual inspection of goods gradu- 
 ally wore off as the days went on, and the 
 favourite attitude after our box was emptied, 
 was that given in the illustration. As we 
 
 were out in the full blaze of the morning sun, 
 this use of the family trunk afforded some 
 shade to the body, and at the same time a
 
 96 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 camping ground fairly free from insects. 
 After the first two days, there was a good 
 deal of make-believe about the unpacking, 
 although we had to rigidly adhere to the 
 two hours' airing of a morning, from eight 
 to ten o'clock, as long as w^e were upon the 
 island. 
 
 After our first morning's two hours' airing, 
 we were taken off to our cells. My wife and 
 I were fortunate in getting a small room to 
 ourselves ; if the first-class passengers had 
 been more numerous, we should have been 
 most certainly separated, and packed away 
 anyhow, as the second-class passengers were, 
 with people of all nationalities, perhaps com- 
 pelled to share a bed as well as a room, with 
 other horrors of all descriptions. Luckily, we 
 were spared this experience, and only learned 
 how these things were, from an unfortunate 
 English couple, who had to endure these addi- 
 tional miseries as best they could in the second- 
 class corridor. Our cell was a small white- 
 washed apartment about twelve feet square, 
 up one flight of stairs, and opened upon a
 
 THE LAZARETTO 97 
 
 long corridor. It was much like a room in a 
 workhouse, only not so clean. At the end of 
 the corridor, upon which our room opened, 
 was the eating room. The second-class pas- 
 sengers in similar rooms below slept six in a 
 room, and the third-class passengers had two 
 long chambers, one for each sex, and slept on 
 palliasses on the ground, having their meals on 
 trestle tables in the yard. We made our own 
 beds, and generally did the work of the house ! 
 "We found it rather difficult, however, to per- 
 form our new duties to our satisfaction^ as the 
 broom we had the use of, was worn to a 
 stump, and would not do its work efficiently ; 
 moreover, we had no blacking for our boots. 
 The sheets of the beds, too, were not what they 
 might have been ; as far as we could make out 
 jfrom the marks upon them, they seemed to 
 have done duty first as table-cloths, and then, 
 when too much soiled to present a comely 
 appearance on the table, took a turn, on the 
 way to the washtub, as sheets for the beds. 
 This economy in washing was probably due to 
 the fact that the only water on the island fell 
 
 H
 
 98 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 from tlie clouds, and as rain had not fallen for 
 a long period, water was not to be wasted in 
 unnecessary washings. How scarce and valu- 
 able it was we well knew, for immediately 
 under our window was the water-tank, a large 
 chamber underground hewn out of the rock, 
 and vaulted over with brick. As ill luck 
 would have it, a large staple was affixed 
 to the wall just outside our window to carry 
 the wheel on which ran the chain by which 
 buckets were lowered into the water-tank. 
 It creaked and groaned with rust and age 
 in a perfectly maddening way, and as most 
 of the water was drawn up in the very early 
 morning, the days, which were long enough, 
 were still further drawn out, by our being 
 awakened by the hideous squeaks and groan - 
 ings of the well-chain. The day before we 
 left the island, the water in the tank came to 
 an end. As there were only a few inches re- 
 maining in the bottom, the officials appeared 
 to think it a good opportunity to clean out 
 the tank, so proceeded to empty it. The 
 emptying process gave us much amusement.
 
 THE LAZARETTO 09 
 
 Every old bucket, bottle, and biscuit tin, in 
 fact everything that could be pressed into the 
 service, was carefully filled with the precious 
 fluid which was ladled up from the depths — 
 water it could hardly be called, for, thick in 
 colour at the commencement, it soon became 
 more solid than liquid, and violently pungent 
 to the nose. When it reached this stasre the 
 officials held a consultation, and after some 
 consideration decided to condemn it as unfit 
 for use ; but, instead of removing it to a dis- 
 tance, they emptied it out upon the ground 
 immediately above the reservoir, so that all 
 this delightful mess could not fail to permeate 
 the ground, and again pollute the fresh supply 
 of water. Whilst this entertainment was 
 going forward, the official in charge kept 
 gesticulating to us to retire from our window, 
 evidently not caring for our supervision. We 
 were much amused at his holding his nose 
 and intimatino; how ill we should make our- 
 selves if we remained at the window. 
 
 The real hardships of the lazaretto were 
 the unsavoury food and unsavoury smells. 
 
 H 2
 
 100 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 We were oiven black coffee and sour bread 
 every morning before the clothes parade. 
 There was butter too, but it was quite uneat- 
 able. Milk was an extra, costing 85. a pint. 
 After the airing of garments was over, we 
 had dejeuner, with oily soup and various 
 chunks of hard meat cooked in oil, about as 
 tough and gristly as the hardest india-rubber ; 
 some very repulsive vegetables, an apple each, 
 vin ordinaire, and black coffee. Dinner at five 
 was somewhat more ample as far as food went, 
 but not more palatable. Our meals were one 
 prolonged groan from beginning to end from 
 the five partakers thereof; three of the second- 
 class passengers having paid extra to share 
 the comparative comforts of the upper corridor. 
 Yet we did not hurry over them ; the waiter 
 ^[^ — not hurry ; the cook did — not hurry ; in 
 fact no one hurried, for there was nothing to 
 hurry for ; there was no place of amusement 
 to betake ourselves to nor anything to do. The 
 only vestige of amusement we could extract 
 from our dinner arose from the erratic times 
 at which the pudding appeared, often at the
 
 THE LAZARETTO 101 
 
 beo'innin"', sometimes in the middle, but never 
 at the end. Once we tried a very lean and 
 hungry chicken, for which, being an extra, we 
 paid 8-9. The only satisfactory extras we in- 
 dulged in were poached eggs at 10^/. a piece. 
 There were a few geese running on the island, 
 and we asked whether we might have one as 
 an 'extra.' ' Xo,' was the reply, 'they are 
 kept for the invalids.' Poor invalids — what a 
 prospect ! 
 
 On the third day of our quarantine matters 
 in the food line brightened a little, for some 
 kind friends sent us some potted meats, jams, 
 wine, and grapes from Monte Video. The 
 officials thought the grapes too good for us ; 
 so they appropriated them. However the 
 pate de foie gras and the preserved peaches 
 reached us, and though they were not exactly 
 the sustenance we most required, they did duty 
 fairly well. 
 
 In case of supplies of food running short, 
 a few ragged, lean, hungiy-looking sheep 
 were kept on the island. On the day be- 
 fore we left, supplies ran short, and it became
 
 102 
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 necessary to kill a sheep. The first thing to 
 do was to catch it, and in so small a place 
 this seemed to be an easy thing enough. 
 However, after several men had spent quite 
 half an hour chasing the sheep to no purpose, 
 
 vry?»-^ • - 
 
 LIGHTHOUSE, FROM OUR WINDOW IN THE LAZARETTO. 
 
 they brought out a lasso. I thought it would 
 be all over with the sheep then, but another 
 half hour slipped away and still the sheep 
 was at large. As the sheep was absolutely 
 necessary, and there was no other way of 
 capturing it, a gun was brought out, and with
 
 THE LAZARETTO 
 
 103 
 
 much solemnity the poor brute was deliberately 
 shot. 
 
 The window of our cliambcr looked out 
 upon the lighthouse, but we were not allowed 
 to go there. From the doorway, on the oppo- 
 
 COURT OF THE LAZARETTO. 
 
 site side of our room, we looked across the 
 yard, as shown in the above illustration. The 
 treble-gabled building at the extremity of the 
 island, about one-third of a mile away, is the 
 hospital, and on the other side of the hospital,
 
 10-i ZEPHYRUS 
 
 and ill fact forming a sort of garden to it, is 
 the cemetery. While we were in the lazaretto 
 a brig came in with a small-pox patient on 
 board. The poor fellow was immediately 
 placed inside a long wooden box a trifle 
 larger than a coffin, and carried by four men 
 very slowly from the pier to the hospital. 
 The gTound is so uneven that they could only 
 go at a snail's pace, and under a semi-tropical 
 sun the temperature of the dark box must 
 have been something frightful. Landed at 
 the hospital with the cheerful cemetery as the 
 only prospect from the windows, the patients 
 see no doctors, for they do not visit the 
 patients, for fear of infection, but prescribe 
 by telephone. 
 
 We were somewhat fortunate in being 
 allowed to prowl down to the cemetery during 
 the first four days of our incarceration, for 
 the hospital being then empty, they did not 
 mind our going that way. This was a great 
 comfort, for in the immediate vicinity of the 
 lazaretto the smells of putrid and decaying sub- 
 stances made it most unpleasant to loiter there.
 
 THE LAZARETTO 105 
 
 From the little pier tliey might pitch all their 
 refuse iiito deep water, but instead of so dis- 
 posing of it, they scatter it broadcast about on 
 the rocky ground. As there are no birds and 
 scarcely any insects on the island, save a very 
 small kind of ant and certain human pests, 
 nature does not do the scavenging, and the re- 
 sult is a hideous litter, and repellent odours 
 which the sea breezes stir, but cannot over- 
 come. One could not help feeling that the 
 life we had to lead was eminently calculated 
 to develop, if not to generate, sickness and 
 disease. 
 
 We were, according to promise, to reckon 
 the lay day on board our steamer as one of 
 the six days of our quarantine ; we expected 
 to get away from the island on the fifth day 
 after landing. We accordingly distributed 
 among our fellow-travellers so much of the 
 food sent us from Monte Video as we did 
 not need, reserving just enough to finish at 
 breakfast on the morning of the fifth day. 
 That morning the emigrants and the Brazi- 
 lians, according to their wont on state occa-
 
 106 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 sions, arrayed themselves in their utmost 
 siDlendour, some of the costumes of the pea- 
 sants being most picturesque. We all sat 
 down, everyone on his own box, ready for 
 the tug-boat to take us away. But an ugly 
 rumour went round that the lay day on board 
 the steamer was not to be reckoned. It 
 proved to be only too true — the elegant 
 toilets had been made in vain ; alas ! too, 
 we had no more eatable food left ; it was aU 
 gone, and there was another hideous twenty- 
 four hours to be made out. Never did we feel 
 more truly the sickness of heart arising from 
 hope deferred. The true reason of our deten- 
 tion undoubtedly was that the lazaretto was 
 not full, and they were making 201. a day by 
 keeping us ! 
 
 This was but a natural result of the laza- 
 retto being farmed out ; the Government let- 
 ting it, so I was informed, for 200/. a year— a 
 highly profitable arrangement for the takers. 
 Next day we really got off, but we did not 
 believe we were going till the whistle was 
 0-iven and the screw besjan to turn. The sea
 
 THE LAZARETTO 107 
 
 was a bit lumpy, and I was quite sorry for our 
 splendidly attired fellow-travellers, for tliey 
 got several splashings and partial drenchings 
 before we were alongside the quay in Monte 
 Video. Then began the most deafening ap- 
 peals from a surging throng of porters and 
 boatmen, who swooped down upon us and 
 seized every package they could lay hold of. 
 It was a wild scene of scream and scramble, 
 but we were prepared for it beforehand, and 
 by organising with our fellow-passengers a 
 system of piquets, we protected our goods 
 and got them safely on shore. The first 
 thin"" we did on landmo; was to indulcre in 
 the luxury of having our boots blacked, a pro- 
 cess they had not undergone for a full week 
 past. Then, as all others I believe do under 
 similar circumstances, we made for the best 
 hotel and ordered a good but simple meal, 
 to which we did the justice that onl}' half- 
 famished mortals can.
 
 108 
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 UP STKEAM. 
 
 After the meal was over which celebrated 
 our deliverance from captivity, we proceeded 
 by the ' bond ' over a portion of the sixty miles 
 of tramways, which serve the 120,000 inhabi- 
 tants of the city of Monte Video. 
 
 BIT OF MONTE VIDEO PEGM THE SEA. 
 
 The capital of the Banda Oriental is un- 
 questionably a fine city. It caused me no 
 little surprise to find that so young a city 
 could well bear comparison with many an 
 ancient European city. No amount of ex- 
 planation will quite get over one's very
 
 UP STREAM 109 
 
 natural astonishment at finding, in a now and 
 distant land, cities which in every point can 
 measure themselves against old cities with 
 centuries of growth. Uruguay was passmg 
 through a revolutionary struggle at the very 
 moment we landed, yet to the eye of a 
 stranger looking at the city and the quiet 
 stream of business that was going forward, 
 there was nothing whatever to mdicate that 
 the country was in the throes of a revolution. 
 We were much amused when at Buenos Ayres 
 two days later (only sixty miles distant), to 
 read an account m one of the newspapers of 
 the miserable plight of ]\Ionte Video. The 
 writer of the article, after describing in dismal 
 colours the progress of the revolution, con- 
 cluded by stating that in Monte Video ' busi- 
 ness was at a standstill, the shops and 
 merchants' stores were closed, and grass was 
 growing in the streets.' This is a delightful 
 illustration of the way in which, without any 
 justification, alarming and unfounded reports 
 are spread, the only effect of which is to 
 assist the ' bears ' of various securities. Such
 
 110 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 a statement, emanating from such a source, 
 would to the mind of an ordinary English 
 reader appear perfectly trustworthy, though 
 in reality utterly fallacious. 
 
 Monte Video, like Lisbon, lies stretched 
 out on a long hill- side, and presents an im- 
 posing appearance when approached by water. 
 To the left of Monte Video, as seen from 
 the sea, rises the Cerro, about 500 feet high, 
 
 THE CEKRO. 
 
 crowned by a lighthouse. From this hill, 
 the ' green hill,' the city obtains its name of 
 Monte Video. Though the cupolas and mina- 
 rets of the churches make a show at a little 
 distance from the city, Monte Video cannot be 
 regarded as a ' churchy ' place. The cathedral 
 is nothing more than a big church of a very 
 average kind. The others are few in number, 
 and, with the single exception of the Church
 
 UP STREAM 11 i 
 
 of the Immaculate Conception, tliey are all 
 architecturally poor in quality. The best 
 buildings are the Opera House and the 
 Exchange, while the Post Office, Custom 
 House, Law Courts, and University are 
 decidedly effective. 
 
 The cathedrals and churches in Brazil, 
 Uruguay, and the Argentine Republic (save 
 at Cordova), give one the impression that re- 
 ligion, in its outward forms and ceremonies 
 at any rate, occupies a very unimportant 
 position. In many places one comes across 
 churches which, after being partially built, 
 have been abandoned unfinished, while else- 
 where many of the churches, though finished, 
 are manifestly stunted in growth. The pro- 
 portion of priests to the population must be 
 very small, judging from the very few one 
 meets with in public places, and from the 
 stories which are current of districts visited 
 by the priest at most once in five years, when 
 he has a busy time christening big children 
 and completing, with church rites, ex-post- 
 facto marriages and burials. Large tracts of
 
 112 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 land in Brazil and in the Argentine Republic, 
 most of which, is of high quality, were for- 
 merly in the possession of various religious 
 orders. For some years past these orders 
 have been forbidden to enrol new members, 
 and these countries are gradually resuming 
 possession of the properties. 
 
 Monte Video is fortunate in having a supply 
 of good building stone within easy reach, while 
 Buenos Ayres has to fetch every cubic inch 
 of stone from either Entre Rios, or the Banda 
 Oriental, or from 200 miles inland. The har- 
 bour of Monte Video on the map appears to 
 be big enough to float all the navies of the 
 world, and, were the depth of water sufficient, 
 its area would be ample for that purpose. 
 The harbour is, however, unfortunately very 
 shallow. The consequence is that the big 
 ocean-going ships have to lie quite far out at 
 sea, a mile at least from the city of Monte 
 Video, exposed to the full beat of the strong 
 south-easterly gales. The inconvenience of 
 this to passengers is great, and the cost of 
 sending cargo by lighters to and fro from
 
 UP STREAM 113 
 
 ship to shore is very serious. This will be un- 
 derstood when I say thiit it not unfrequently 
 ha})pens that the cost of landing cargo at 
 Monte Video (and at Buenos Ayres likewise) 
 equals in amount the freight charged for the 
 whole voyage from England. This must needs 
 be a very serious tax upon the consumer and 
 a great impediment to trade. A scheme is on 
 foot to build a breakwater and harbour for 
 Monte Tideo at a cost of 3,U00,000/. It is 
 certain that if Monte Video desires to continue 
 to rival Buenos Ayres as a pori she will have 
 to make proper provision for the protection of 
 shipping and for the easy discharge of cargo. 
 Buenos Ayres is making great strides in this 
 direction, and before long will offer shippmg 
 very great advantages, with every facility for 
 large vessels to discharge alongside the quays. 
 Monte Video offers to merchants one im- 
 mense advantage in that the custom-house 
 regulations are far ahead of those of Buenos 
 Ayres. There is much less red-tape at the 
 Monte A'ideo custom-house, and, what is even 
 more important, cargo is handled there as 
 
 I
 
 114 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 if it might be injured by rough treatment ; 
 while at Buenos Ay res goods are knocked 
 about as if they were made of something con- 
 siderably stronger than adamant. So badly 
 are packages treated at Buenos Ayres that I 
 have been told that it is better to send some 
 classes of goods direct to Rosario, and then 
 forward them on to Buenos Ayres, a return 
 journey by train of 186 miles, than submit 
 them to the mercies of the Buenos Ayres 
 custom-house officials. 
 
 From Monte Video steamers ply up the 
 Uruguay and Paraguay rivers. There are two 
 different steamship companies, one English 
 and one French, and their steamers are all 
 that could be desu-ed. They are splendidly 
 appointed m every way, and are equal to the 
 best of the pleasure steamers on the Clyde. 
 The food is excellent. 1 found they kept two 
 cooks on each boat ; one devoted his attention 
 entirely to pastry, of which the Brazilians are 
 extremely fond. These cooks are better paid 
 than English curates, getting 3/. a week and 
 all found. We left Monte Video by one of
 
 UP STREAM 115 
 
 these steamers at six in the evening, and 
 crossed to Bnenos Aj^^res, where we arrived at 
 daybreak. Thence we proceeded up the 
 river to Sal to. My wife came into oui' cabin 
 shortly after we had started and found me 
 combing my hair with a comb which I was 
 under the impression belonged to her. She 
 pronounced it to be a filthy, dirty old comb, 
 and for fear of further accidents she calmly 
 flung it out of the window to rejoice the mer- 
 maids. A few days later we were on another 
 steamer, and to our surprise there was another 
 comb no better than the one that went out of 
 the cabin window. So we came to the con- 
 clusion that they were there free of charge, 
 to enable the natives to make an impromptu 
 toilet when they carried no baggage. Some 
 of the hotels beiniy of a generous turn of mind, 
 provide a clothes-brush in addition, but they 
 none of them seem to rise to a tooth-brush ; 
 perhaps the everlasting wooden tooth-pick 
 which is plied vigorously after every meal 
 by women and men alike may be taken to 
 do duty instead. 
 
 T 2
 
 116 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 When we got into the Uruguay River the 
 drinking water in the water-bottles placed on 
 the tables assumed a brownish tinge. There 
 is no sediment in the water, but the brown 
 colour gave it a distinctly unwholesome ap- 
 pearance. On inquiry we found that the 
 water, far from being injurious, was regarded 
 as especially good, the colour it carries coming 
 from large beds of sarsaparilla through which 
 it flows much further up stream. 
 
 The River Plate is so wide at Buenos Ayres 
 that the opposite side (the Uruguay side) 
 cannot be seen. As will be seen by a refer- 
 ence to the map, Buenos Ayres lies almost at 
 the end of the River Plate. Within a very 
 short time after leaving Buenos Ayres we 
 passed the fortified island of Martin Garcier, 
 which commands the entrances to the rivers 
 Parana and Uruguay. After leaving Martin 
 Garcier the wide waters rapidly contract and 
 the banks rise now and again more than two 
 hundred feet above the river, many a pictu- 
 resque wooded bluff standing out along the 
 river course. Dotted about on the hillsides
 
 UP STREAM 117 
 
 are the numerous estancias (cattle farms) of 
 the prince formers of Uru<^uay, many of the 
 farm buildings alone covering a considerable 
 acreao-e. These riverside estancias have a 
 high value from being upon the great water- 
 way, which brings both friends and customers. 
 One often hears that the great estancieros are 
 too well off, and there is much truth in this. 
 Their estates are so large that they produce 
 all, and more than all, that their owners need. 
 So things are let go on in a sleepy way, the 
 natural increase in flocks and herds being 
 sufiicient for their needs, little effort being 
 made to improve the breeds of sheep and 
 cattle or to colonise and cultivate their broad 
 lands. Many of the estancieros of Uruguay 
 are English, and these are amongst the most 
 enterprising, having done more than others 
 to rail off their lands into paddocks, which 
 is the first step to improving the breed by 
 separating the various kinds and classes of 
 cattle and sheep. 
 
 The furthest point to which steamers can 
 proceed on the Uruguay River is Salto (the
 
 118 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 'falls'), as here begin the rocks and rapids 
 which for the next one hundred miles render 
 the river impassable, except at very unusual 
 seasons of flood. The Brazilian Government 
 keep some small gunboats on the upper waters 
 of the River Uruguay, and some time ago two 
 of these gunboats waited for three years at 
 Salto before a river flood gave them an oppor- 
 tunity of proceeding up stream. The naviga- 
 tion of the Uruguay River from Buenos Ayres 
 to Salto is here and there difficult owing to 
 sunken rocks, which are a peril when the river 
 is low. The Uruguay and Argentine Govern- 
 ments are supposed to buoy all the dangerous 
 places and charge a pilotage tax for doing so ; 
 but, though they charge the tax, they so in- 
 efficiently do the work, that the steamboat 
 companies have to pay both the tax and also 
 for getting the work done privately, otherwise 
 the river would not be properly buoyed ; 
 whereat they naturally grumble in a quiet 
 way.
 
 119 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 REVOLUTION. 
 
 AVe reached Salto about ten days after leaving 
 Monte Video, having been delayed at Buenos 
 Ayres for a week, owing to the interruption 
 of the river traffic, due to the revolution in 
 progress on the north-west frontier of Uruguay. 
 We took our passage in the ' Cosmos,' and, 
 owing to the local disturbances, we had this 
 fine vessel almost entirely to ourselves. We 
 reached Salto at midday on a Friday, and 
 took up our quarters at the Hotel Concordia, 
 a large modern hotel built in the centre of the 
 city, where they made us very comfortable. 
 The first sight that we saw after our arrival 
 in the city was the entrance of a large body 
 of prisoners, in pitiable plight, straight from 
 the field of battle. As we were more or less in
 
 120 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 the thick of the turmoil for the next ten days, 
 and had full opportunity of learnmg all par- 
 ticulars about what had happened and was 
 happening, I will here briefly narrate what 
 we learnt concerning this attempted revolu- 
 tion, as it may in some degree serve to show 
 how far the danger of revolution may still 
 be numbered as amongst the risks to the 
 future progress of these countries. 
 
 For more than a year before the revolution 
 actually broke out, subscriptions were being' 
 collected, arms provided, and all other neces- 
 sary preparations made. Drilling had been 
 going on in Buenos Ayres and elsewhere on 
 the Argentine side daily for three months 
 before the revolutionists crossed the River 
 Uruguay. The outbreak of hostilities was 
 for months so likely to occur at any moment 
 that all along the river trade was utterly para- 
 lysed. No one would make any purchases, 
 and stores of all kinds were depleted to the 
 utmost, through fear of military requisitions. 
 
 Within quite recent times revolutionary 
 movements have been known to terminate
 
 REVOLUTION 121 
 
 successfully which in the beginning consisted 
 of nothino- but a few scores of armed horse- 
 men banded together, who fed themselves at 
 the expense of the estancieros, and who kept 
 out of the way of the Government troops by 
 hard riding until they had attracted sufficient 
 numbers to their side to take the offensive 
 with success. The revolutionary movement 
 of 1886, however, started under much more 
 favourable conditions. The revolutionists 
 were able to place no less than 1,500 well- 
 armed soldiers at once in the field, who had 
 been drilled for months. They possessed, 
 moreover, a battery of artillery. Is it any 
 wonder, then, that the people of the Banda 
 Oriental, three-fourths of whom favoured the 
 revolutionists, regarded the coming revolu- 
 tion as already an assured success ? 
 
 To make the position of the revolutionists 
 clear, it is necessary to refer to the little map 
 here given. The revolutionists were encamped 
 in the Argentme provmce of Entre Rios, 
 chiefly about Monte Caseros. The East Argen- 
 tine line runs from Ceibo to Concordia, and
 
 122 
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 between these two places the River Uruguay, 
 owing to rapids, is useless for purposes of 
 navigation. On the opposite side of the river, 
 in the Banda Oriental, from Salto to Isla 
 
 ^i^O'RRIENTES 
 
 fEtfEiratfoh 
 
 "Banda 
 
 ORtENTAL 
 
 .3 ".Troops. 
 
 Cabellos (just beyond the Arapey) extended 
 the North Western of Uruguay Railway (now 
 terminating at the Cuareim River). Down the 
 river below Concordia on the Entre Rios side, 
 and below Salto on the Banda Oriental side,
 
 REVOLUTION 123 
 
 no railway runs, but below these places the 
 river is navigable. 
 
 The East Argentine Railway does not 
 extend up the river beyond Ceibo, but from 
 Ceibo the river again becomes navigable. For 
 purposes of revolution, as against Uruguay, 
 however, this upper portion of navigable river 
 is of little service, for as the Banda Oriental 
 terminates at the Cuareim River, troops com- 
 ing down stream would have no choice but to 
 land at Santa Rosa. If they succeeded in 
 effecting; a landino- here, which would be 
 difficult, as the exact point of their disem- 
 barkation w^ould be known, they woidd be 
 subject to all the additional risks attendant 
 upon bemg hemmed in at the start, in the 
 most remote corner of the country. 
 
 From January to the end of March 1886, 
 the insurgent forces were encamped on the 
 Argentine side in Entre Rios. As the har- 
 bour offered to these enemies of the national 
 government of the Banda Oriental had be- 
 come a scandal and a transparent breach of 
 international amity, the Argentine Govern-
 
 124 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 ment felt compelled to inform the revolu- 
 tionists that they could no longer remain 
 encamped in Entre Rios, face to face with 
 the country they were preparing to invade. 
 They were further informed that the Argen- 
 tine Government would send troops to compel 
 them to retire into Corrientes, which is the 
 next province up the river, and lies opposite 
 to the Brazilian frontier. This notification 
 brought matters to a crisis. To have with- 
 drawn into Corrientes would have been fatal 
 to all hope of success. It would have left 
 the revolutionists with only Santa Kosa to 
 make a descent upon, for the rapids below 
 this point render it impossible to drop further 
 down stream for purposes of effecting a land- 
 ing elsewhere. Moreover, in the upper reaches 
 of the river above Ceibo, there is very little 
 shipping of any kind obtainable, either by 
 payment or by force. It, therefore, became 
 urgently necessary to commence the revolu- 
 tion forthwith, or abandon it ignominiously. 
 
 The Revolutionary Committee took coun- 
 sel with General Arredondo, who was in
 
 REVOLUTION 125 
 
 command of the insurgent forces, and he 
 reported to them that, although he could not 
 advise the attempt being made, he was pre- 
 pared to lead his little army across the river 
 into the territory of the Banda Oriental, if 
 they gave him orders to do so. The reply of 
 the Revolutionary Committee to this not very 
 cheering offer of their general was an order to 
 invade. General Tajes (now President of the 
 Banda Oriental), who was in command of the 
 troops of the Republic, was under the impres- 
 sion that the attempt to cross the Uruguay 
 River would most likely be made just where 
 the Arapey River runs into it ; for news had 
 reached him that the invasion was now only a 
 matter of days, and he knew that the insurgent 
 forces were encamped between Federacion and 
 Monte Caseros opposite the Arapey. General 
 Tajes accordingly withdrew his troops by rail 
 from Salto, and posted them strongly about 
 the Arapey. General Arredondo, on the 
 other hand, skilfully matured his plans for 
 invadini*- the Banda Oriental, so that he mio:ht 
 enter with his full force, and at the same time
 
 126 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 without encountering the enemy. By en- 
 camping his little army near Federacion, 
 a long way above Salto, he not only led 
 General Tajes to suppose that the invasion 
 would be attempted in the neighbourhood of 
 the Arapey, so that the defending forces were 
 wholly withdrawn from Salto, but he also 
 lulled to sleep the fears of the owners of the 
 steamboats which ply from Monte Video and 
 Buenos Ayres to Salto, and which generally 
 accumulate at Salto on Sundays. 
 
 Circumstances being so far favourable to 
 the revolutionists, a bargain was struck with 
 the East Argentine Railway Company to 
 convey the 1,500 insurgents for a sum of 
 10,000 dollars (1,500/.) from Monte Caseros 
 to Concordia (a mile below Salto on the oppo- 
 site bank of the river) during the night of 
 Saturday, April 3. Thus it was that early 
 on Sunday morning, April 4, the little army 
 found themselves at Concordia. Salto, almost 
 opposite, lay unprotected, and in the river 
 before them were moored three large passenger 
 steamers. There was nothiug to prevent the
 
 KEVOLUTION 127 
 
 insuriients either from seizino; Salto or em- 
 barkino; on the steamers and makino- a descent 
 on some other place lower down the river. It 
 was an anxious moment for tliose in Salto, 
 who, from the tops of their houses, could see 
 all that was happening at Concordia. They 
 were naturally afraid that the destination of 
 the revolutionists was Salto, for there had 
 been rumours that they intended to take and 
 hold the town. And as the city, which is of 
 considerable size, the third largest city in the 
 kingdom, containing stores of every kind, was 
 now denuded of troops, the opportunity for 
 the revolutionists seemed to have come. It 
 is extremely likely that the insurgent forces 
 would have seized Salto had it not been for 
 the prudent foresight of the manager of the 
 North AVestern of Uruguay Railway, who liad 
 asked for and obtained a small guard to pro- 
 tect each of the bridges and culverts on the 
 company's line. The revolutionists had, on 
 the preceding Saturday, sent across the river 
 a small force of men to blow up these cul- 
 verts and bridges, but when they approached
 
 128 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 them they found that each one was guarded by 
 about ten soldiers, and as the scouts sent over 
 to perform this duty could only move about 
 the country by twos and threes, they were not 
 sufficiently strong to attempt any attack upon 
 the guards of the bridges. Had they been 
 able to effect their purpose, they could have 
 delayed considerably the return of the Go- 
 vernment troops to Salto, and sp given the 
 revolutionary forces some breathing- time after 
 landing. But as the bridges were intact, and 
 the insurgents were not prepared to precipi- 
 tate an immediate conflict with the enemy, 
 the only thing left for them to do was to seize 
 the steamers which lay in the river, embark 
 their forces, and drop down the stream to 
 effect a landing elsewhere. 
 
 So the many anxious watchers on the flat- 
 topped houses of Salto were spared the horrors 
 of a battle in their midst. They saw the 
 revolutionists embark, and the steamers one 
 by one depart. A landing was eff'ected at 
 Guabiii, fifty miles below Salto, and after 
 months of preparation the revolutionists were
 
 KEVOLUTION 129 
 
 at last in the enemy's coimtry, well supplied 
 with arms and ammunition and artillery, but 
 with nothing more. 
 
 They were without food, and they had as j'-et 
 to obtain possession of 1,000 horses promised 
 them in the Banda Oriental. These horses they 
 never obtained, for the estanciero near Salto 
 who had agreed to provide them, betrayed the 
 
 VIEW OP CREEK WHERE INSURGENTS LANDED. 
 
 insurgents at the last moment, drove off his 
 horses, and left only a steward in possession, 
 the blowing out of whose brains did not 
 furnish the unfortunate invaders with the 
 much-needed horses. The effort to obtain 
 these horses on which they depended so much, 
 led them to strike northwards from Guabiii in 
 the direction of Salto. They might have gone 
 
 K
 
 130 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 southwards to Paysandii — a large and wealthy 
 city which lay close by — and taken it without 
 a struggle, for no troops were there. But 
 they went on a fool's errand instead, after the 
 horses which they were never to get. 
 
 The difference between the mvaders and 
 the troops of the Banda Oriental was very 
 marked. The revolutionists were largely 
 drawn from merchants' and lawyers' offices 
 in Monte Video and Buenos Avres, and were 
 not at all the equals of the regular troops in 
 point of physique. In matter of discipline, 
 too, they could not compare with the soldiers 
 of Uruguay. We saw a large body of the 
 latter arrive at Salto from the Arapey by 
 train, and their steadiness and discipline were 
 evident from the silence, regularity, and dis- 
 patch with which they got into and out of the 
 carriao;es, althouo-h such a mode of travellino; 
 must, in all probability, have been utterly new 
 and strano;e to most of them. 
 
 The Ion Of straio-ht street of Salto on Men- 
 day morning, April 5, presented a very remark- 
 able appearance. It was filled from end to end
 
 REVOLUTION 131 
 
 by 2,000 foot soldiers harnessing and equip- 
 ping for service a multitude of horses of every 
 kind and description — soldiers many of whom 
 had evidently never ridden a horse before ; but 
 the useful little docile animals, standing some 
 14-|- hands high, were someho^v got underneath 
 the Tommy Atkins of the Banda Oriental, 
 and when mounted he managed to remain in 
 the saddle. Horses were pressed in from all 
 quarters, every horse in the country being at 
 the disposal of the Government in time of war. 
 An unfortunate milkman, who, ignorant of 
 what was happening, rode into the town with 
 his milk-cans dano:linc!^ at his horse's sides, was 
 summoned to hand over his horse instanter. 
 Instead of submitting, he clapped spurs to its 
 flanks, and made a bolt for it. But a well- 
 mounted orderly gave chase and soon had 
 the milkman by one leg, when without any 
 ado he hoisted him out of his saddle, and, 
 leaving him shaken and sprawling on the 
 ground, grasped his horse by the reins and 
 trotted off with it for active service in the 
 field. By three o'clock in the afternoon 
 
 K 2
 
 132 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 Salto had resumed its usual appearance, the 
 soldiers having by this time completed their 
 preparations in a thoroughly businesslike 
 manner, and set out on their march to the 
 field of battle. 
 
 The invaders, meanwhile, were in a sad 
 plight. Without horses and without supplies, 
 they were neither in a condition to fight nor 
 were they able to keep out of the way of 
 fiofhtincr. The revolutionists came into contact 
 with the regular troops on Monday evening 
 (April 5), and some slight skirmishing took 
 place. On the following day, Tuesday, the 
 regular troops attacked the revolutionists in 
 some force, but were repulsed. On Wednesday 
 morning the regular troops, under the command 
 of General Tajes, were in considerable force 
 all round the revolutionists, outnumberino; 
 them by about five to one. The revolutionists 
 (all but a few score of them) were on foot, 
 thoroughly wearied with continual marching, 
 want of sleep, and want of food. Soon after 
 sunrise the battle began. The regular troops 
 began with artillery fire, which had no great
 
 REVOLUTION 133 
 
 effect save tliat of dispiriting- the revolutionists, 
 who could not reply. For, although they had 
 with infinite labour (being short of horses) 
 brought their park of artillery into action, 
 they found it was only a white elephant ; 
 and after killing ten of their own men in 
 tlie effort to use their guns, they discarded 
 them. Then the regular troops were thrown 
 out in skirmishing order, and worked their 
 way forward with steadiness and precision, 
 making heavy play amongst the revolu- 
 tionists, who were not equally well handled. 
 The battle ended after some four hours' fig-ht- 
 ing, the revolutionists being gradually beaten 
 down in the conflict. Three hundred of the 
 revolutionists — many of them sons of the best 
 families in the Banda Oriental — were amongst 
 the slain and wounded. Six hundred were 
 taken prisoners, and the rest made their escape 
 from the field. Some succeeded in crossing: 
 the frontier of Brazil, after a long and weary 
 journey, while others were captured later on 
 in small detachments. 
 
 The national guards had been called out
 
 134 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 to support the regular troops. The national 
 guards — the militia of the country — are the 
 gauchos (native peasants) of the Banda 
 Oriental, mounted on their own horses, clad 
 in their ordinary dresses — brown poncho, 
 loose baggy trousers with a waist-belt bristling 
 with weapons, wearing broad scarlet ribbons 
 round their greasy hats to distinguish them 
 as soldiers. They look uncommonly like 
 banditti, and as soldiers are really quite use- 
 less, but are useful as guides and aides-de- 
 camp. They were supposed to take an active 
 part in the fighting, but as their sympathies 
 were all on the side of the revolutionists, they 
 at first held quite aloof, biding their time to 
 take sides with the enemy. When, however, 
 the battle of Guabiii had been fought and lost, 
 by the insurgents, the national guards, losing 
 their sympathies for the enemy in their desire 
 for booty, set about cutting the throats of 
 the wounded and plundering the slain in a 
 way that had to be rather roughly restrained. 
 With the exception of some foreigners, who 
 were taken prisoners, and who being imable to
 
 K EVOLUTION 
 
 135 
 
 show any claim to being in any way ' Ori- 
 entals,' were shot on the field, the revolution- 
 ists were treated with the utmost considera- 
 tion. 
 
 The means adopted for disposing of the 
 slain were simple and original. They threw 
 lassos over the dead, dragged the bodies to 
 some convenient hollow in the ground, 
 
 GAUCHO LASSOING THE DEAD. 
 
 scattered a few spits of earth over them, 
 and the sepulture was complete. Ten days 
 elapsed before the last of the prisoners were 
 brought into Salto. Meanwhile the main 
 body of them had been sent down to Monte 
 Video, and entertained at a banquet given by
 
 136 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 General Santos. On his dismissing them with 
 a free pardon they cheered him, yet many 
 of them went straight to Buenos Ayres to 
 begin plotting against him again. The revo- 
 lutionists explained their failure in a very 
 satisfactory manner to themselves, fondly 
 imagining that had they obtained their 1,000 
 horses they could have turned the fortunes of 
 war. They might no doubt have prolonged 
 matters a little, by keeping out of the way of 
 the regular troops, but the end must have been 
 the same. The fencing m of the estancias has 
 made it by no means easy for a considerable 
 body of troops to move about. With iron 
 fences in all directions, it is a matter of 
 difficulty to move at all at night, and quite 
 impossible to move with dispatch, while by 
 day the movement of troops over the open 
 rolling plains can be seen at great distances. 
 Telegraphs, railways (though at present the 
 Banda Oriental is very insufficiently provided 
 with them), and artillery, give the regular 
 troops of the country overwhelming ad- 
 vantages. The revolution of 1886 is really
 
 KEVOLUTION J^57 
 
 nothing' loss than a knock-down l)low for 
 revokitionists. Other means must be found for 
 ridding the country of objectionable rulers. 
 
 Thus it was that, on our coming to Salto, 
 the first sight we saw was a long cavalcade of 
 soldiers and national guards in charge of a 
 large number of the most scrubby, miserable, 
 dejected-looking wretches one ever would wish 
 to see. FoUowino- the cavalcade came a train 
 of waggons containing the wounded, who 
 uttered groans as the great lumbering spring- 
 less vans, each drawn by eight or ten horses, 
 jolted horribly over the rough road. The 
 streets were thronged, but dead silence reigned, 
 for the sympathies of the people were with the 
 beaten revolutionists. 
 
 It is very fortunate that the revolution 
 failed so completely, for it is scarcely possible 
 to estimate the evil effects of such disturb- 
 ances upon the people of the country in the 
 districts affected. As illustrating the lawless 
 conditions it fosters, I may mention that at 
 Santa Rosa, in the extreme north-east point 
 of the country, we found that the inhabitants
 
 I'^S ZEPHYRUS 
 
 had banded themselves together in a rifle 
 club, to protect themselves from plundering 
 expeditions fitted out in Corrientes. In 
 former times of revolution, the enterprising 
 citizens of Corrientes, who enjoy a very high 
 reputation for violent ways, were in the habit 
 of coming down to Santa Rosa in armed 
 bands and plundering where and whom they 
 would. Word having come that these kindly 
 neighbours up the river were of opinion that 
 another favourable opportunity had arisen 
 for exhibiting similar friendly ways, the 
 people of Santa Rosa wisely banded them- 
 selves together and practised rifle-shooting, so 
 that they might receive their visitors with the 
 honours of war and not fall an easy prey to 
 their tender mercies as m former days. 
 
 At Salto, for three months before the revo- 
 lution broke out, nothing had been coming or 
 going on the quays, and trade was at a com- 
 plete standstill, the stores of the merchants 
 had been running out, and no eflTort made to 
 replenish them, for fear of a looting at no 
 distant date. Why is it, some may ask, that in
 
 REVOLUTION 139 
 
 a republican country, witli an elective sys- 
 tem of government, revolutions should occur ? 
 The fact is that at present, both in the 
 Banda Oriental and in the Argentine repub- 
 lics, the presidency is practically a despotism. 
 After a man has been president for the 
 utmost limit of time the constitution allows, 
 the practice is for him to nominate some near 
 relative, and to nominate is to elect, for the 
 Government has enormous voting influence 
 through the vast body of officials connected 
 with public works of all kinds, the army, 
 railways, post office, telegraphs, and customs, 
 and when these influences are insufficient, 
 elections are carried by manipulating the 
 ballotings. So the office of president remains 
 in the family circle, and the people have no 
 real choice. President Santos, though hated 
 by the aristocrats because he had sprung from 
 the ranks, and hated by the people because he 
 taxed them hea\dly and misused the public 
 money, was certainly a man of power, and had 
 he administered the finances with some regard 
 to the proportion due to himself, and punished
 
 140 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 officials who plundered, would not have been a 
 bad ruler for the country. But everywhere 
 the sweets of power are attractive, and men are 
 reluctant to descend from the presidential 
 throne. Why is it, one cannot help asking, 
 that republics have presidents ? Surely the 
 logical position of a republic is that of a state 
 without a president. Switzerland is the true 
 ideal republic. 
 
 Withm six months of the suppression of the 
 revolution an attempt was made to assassinate 
 General Santos. The bullet went through his 
 cheek, and for a time his life seems to have 
 been in danger. Before he fully recovered he 
 resigned the presidency and left the country. 
 General Tajes, the successful leader of the 
 forces which crushed the revolution, has been 
 appointed president. Many of the revolu- 
 tionary leaders have been given portfolios, 
 a general amnesty proclaimed, and a decree 
 passed banishmg Santos from the country. 
 So that the bullet of the assassin appears to 
 some extent to have accomplished, what an 
 armed revolution in the field failed to effect.
 
 141 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 SALTO. 
 
 Like other towns and cities of the River 
 Plate, Salto, in its street architecture, bears 
 much resemblance to an Italian city. The 
 reason of this is that large numbers of the 
 working population are Italian immigrants, 
 who naturally build and decorate their houses 
 in a style similar to that which they are 
 acquamted with in their own country. At a 
 little distance from the town, the flat roofs and 
 the absence of chimneys cause the houses to 
 look like a number of large packing-cases, the 
 only fires required being the smokeless char- 
 coal stoves used for cooking purposes. 
 
 In the big town of Salto, strange to say, 
 there is no bank. There was once a local 
 bank here, which, as I was told, after lending
 
 142 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 the bulk of its deposits to friends of the 
 directors, closed its doors with as much grace 
 as the circumstances would admit. Owing to 
 there being no bank or exchange office when 
 I was there, I found it impossible to cash a 
 Bank of England note. The landlord of the 
 hotel handed it round to his friends, who 
 smelt it in turn, as if they could test its value 
 in that manner. They had evidently never 
 seen the like before, and with many apologies 
 it was returned to me. Numbers of the 
 people here must have large sums of money 
 in their houses, and how they can sleep in 
 comfort in their beds may seem to some 
 surprising. It may help to explain matters 
 when I say that common larceny is practically 
 unknown. They will do you m a bargain, 
 but will not steal your goods. Bolts and 
 bars may be dispensed with, save in cases of 
 riotous disturbance. The fact is that any- 
 thing like a professional criminal class is non- 
 existent. Everyone has employment, and if 
 the less well-to-do cannot be called the in- 
 dependent rich, they certainly can be called
 
 SALTO 
 
 14;^ 
 
 the independent poor, and are quite above 
 stealing. 
 
 Owing to the rapidity with wliich burial 
 follows death throughout Soutli America, 
 there is no time to make coffins between the 
 time of death and the time of burial. Coffins 
 accordingly liave to be kejit in stock ready 
 made, of all sizes. There are shops which 
 contain coffins, and coffins only, suited to all 
 tastes and means. In the 
 main street of Salto there is 
 a large coffin shop, from the 
 outside of which depends a 
 hu2:e sicrnboard with a . life- 
 size coffin depicted on it, as 
 here appears. One evening, 
 while we were at Salto, the 
 proprietor had quite a big 
 show, and must have spent a quantity of 
 dollars in dressins; out mutes in different 
 attractive styles. One specimen of funeral 
 was labelled ' a la Jerusalem,' but I don't 
 know whether it was quite correct. AYe sup- 
 posed that the recent battle led to this 
 
 SIRNBOAED.
 
 144 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 specially grand display of various styles of 
 becoming burial. 
 
 From Salto I visited the neisflibourino; 
 saladero, about two miles down the river. 
 The ino:enious arrano-ements for convertino- 
 an ox in an incredibly short space of time 
 into preserved meat, hermetically sealed in 
 neatly labelled tins, are well known. Only 
 the prime parts of the meat are tinned, the 
 coarser portions being merely sun-dried. The 
 sun-dried or jerked beef, called in the country 
 ' chaca,' is exported in large quantities to 
 Brazil, where it is consumed by the native 
 labouring class. During the recent visitation 
 of cholera (January-February, 1887), many 
 of the saladeros of the Banda Oriental had to 
 cease workinsf, owino; to Brazil closing; her 
 frontier against everything coming from the 
 Banda Oriental, most of the jerked beef being 
 exported to Brazil. The great importance of 
 the jerked beef trade may be gathered from 
 the following figures. In 1883 the export of 
 meat products from the Banda Oriental was 
 as follows : Of extract of meat, 1,000,000
 
 SALTO 145 
 
 lbs. ; of preserved meat, 3,300,000 lbs. ; of 
 chaca (sun-dried meat), 76,700,000 lbs. 
 
 Before the trade in preserved meat sprang 
 up, cattle were valuable solely for their hides, 
 and every effort was directed to breeding 
 cattle all hide and no meat. But the pre- 
 served-meat factories have already made a 
 chanjre in this, and if the frozen-meat trade 
 should become important, the aim of the cattle 
 breeders will be directed to producing animals 
 all meat and no hide. The frozen-meat trade 
 seems likely to be of slow growth, for frozen 
 meat does not appear to be so palatable or so 
 easily digested as fresh meat. We had some 
 experience of this on our voyage out and 
 home. Going out we were fed entirely upon 
 frozen meat, and on the voyage home we were 
 fed upon fresh meat. Although the fresh 
 meat was the meat of animals in far from 
 good condition, owing to the discomforts of 
 the voyage, the fresh-killed meat was certainly 
 more palatable and digestible than the prime 
 but frozen joints we had on the voyage out. 
 
 The average value of cattle in the Plate
 
 146 ZEPHYEUS 
 
 (taking one with another) is 25,s., and the 
 average value of sheep is 3.s'. Sd. Cattle for 
 the butcher fetch about 40.9. to 50s. each and 
 sheep 5s. I asked an estanciero what was 
 the lowest price at which it would pay him 
 to sell wool, and his reply was 5^d. per lb. 
 One cannot be twenty-four hours in a private 
 house in the Banda Oriental or in the Argen- 
 tine Republic without being struck by the 
 abundant table kept. It ' snoweth in the 
 house' of meats. Three or four persons sitting 
 down to breakfast have set before them as many 
 dishes of meat of various kinds. This will 
 happen again at lunch and again at dinner. 
 At first it seems extravagant to the last 
 degree, but when one comes to realise that 
 prime meat is 2d. per lb. and that good legs 
 of mutton can be got for 9t/. a-piece, it gradu- 
 ally dawns upon one that the meat bill after 
 all will not be a very tremendous one. Eggs 
 and butter, however, are not cheaper than in 
 England. The climate does not suit cocks 
 and hens very well, and there is much trouble 
 with the butter. In the English houses one
 
 SALTO 147 
 
 has all that one can desire to eat, hnt the 
 tables of the native estancieros lack in any 
 thino^s. They cjoan with meats, but with 
 meats only. Vegetables, fruits, milk, tea, and 
 butter are absent. Though extremely well-to- 
 do, the estancieros do not make the slightest 
 effort to procure either vegetables, milk, or 
 butter. The wonder is how they enjoy such 
 good health, feeding as they do so exclusively 
 on a meat diet. It is thought that the ' mate ' 
 which they so freely consume supplies in some 
 degree the lack of other vegetable diet. Mate, 
 or Jesuit tea as it is sometimes called, is a 
 true tea. It consists of the leaves of a small 
 shrub chopped rather fine, and the tea-pot is 
 a gourd. The mate is first put in, then some 
 lumps of sugar are embedded in the mate, 
 and, lastly, the hot water is poured in ; then 
 the bombelia (which has a long hollow stem, 
 the spoon- shaped bowl being perforated as 
 shown in the sketch) is inserted into the 
 bowl, and very slowly, just drop by drop, the 
 tea is sucked through. Men and women may 
 be seen in Brazil and the Plate absorbing 
 
 L 2
 
 148 
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 mate all day long, with the deliberation 
 of a smoker enjoying his pipe. It is good 
 manners to hand one's mate bowl round, like 
 a snufF-box, for all the company to imbibe it 
 in tm-n, AVhen so offered, it must not be 
 refused, no matter who had the last suck. 
 Mate in taste is not unlike green tea with a 
 touch of senna. Although the best coffee is 
 produced in abundance in Brazil, the natives 
 
 MATE BOWLS AND BOMBELIA. 
 
 greatly prefer mate, so that it must possess 
 real merits for those who have acquired a taste 
 for it. 
 
 In spring the uplands about Salto are 
 carpeted with crimson verbena, of the most 
 brilliant colour. The flora in the Plate 
 district does not seem to be very varied. 
 About Salto we found several varieties of
 
 SALTO 149 
 
 sorrels much like our English wood-sorrel, 
 but with bulbous roots, the blossoms varying 
 from white and pale lilac to dark pink and 
 shades of yelloAv ; a pretty little blue nemo- 
 phila, and a curious little trefoil related appa- 
 rently to the same family as the English lotus, 
 on each stalk of which, growing bolt up- 
 right, and looking like a soldier standing at 
 attention, was a solitary yellow blossom. 
 None of these exceeded two inches in height. 
 At Salto there are numbers of curious little 
 dogs like black-and-tan terriers, only without 
 one scrap of hair on them, save white eye- 
 brows and whiskers, which look very strange 
 in contrast to their smooth black shiny skins. 
 This absence of hair seems like a provision of 
 nature for their comfort against their too 
 numerous foes. 
 
 Piled alongside the railway at Salto, 
 awaiting transport to Europe, we saw an 
 immense heap of rough agates, looking hke 
 large flints. These are exported to Germany 
 and manufactured into the innumerable little 
 pebble boxes, letter-weights, and other trifles
 
 150 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 one meets with at seaside bric-a-brac stalls. 
 At Sal to a few are sold, reimported from 
 Europe, but they are very dear, being subject 
 to an import duty of 50 per cent. 
 
 Under the rule of General Santos there 
 was great dishonesty in the collection of the 
 customs duties. The irregularities were popu- 
 larly attributed to the President, and every 
 dollar that failed to reach the public treasury 
 was supposed to have gone into his pockets. 
 How far this was from being the case may be 
 gathered from a remark made by the collector 
 of customs' at Salto w^hen we were there, who, 
 having expressed an eager desire to get pro- 
 moted to Monte Video, added in the most 
 candid way, ' If I was only at Monte Video 
 for eighteen months, I could live at ease for 
 the rest of my days.' Since General Tajes 
 has become President there has been a great 
 change for the better in the customs admi- 
 nistration of the Banda Oriental, and the new 
 brooms who have been set to work exhibit 
 such a desire for clean sweeping, that mer- 
 chants complain of their excessive probity
 
 SALTO 151 
 
 and love of red-tape. In a country with ex- 
 tensive and remote frontiers such as Brazil, 
 it is perhaps impossible to answer for the 
 integrity of all the custom-house officials. 
 The people who bribe them, however, are 
 neither the producers nor consumers, but the 
 forwardino: ao:ents. An estanciero sends down, 
 say, 3,000 hides from some frontier town on 
 the Uruguay River to Monte Video. When 
 these hides arrive in the Banda Oriental 
 territory, the permit is found to be made out 
 for 1,500 only, the forwarding agents and the 
 custom-house officials having passed out 3,000 
 hides as 1,500, and divided the duty upon 
 the remainmg 1,500 between them. Such 
 transactions, though profitable to those who 
 take part in them, brmg no advantage to the 
 Brazilian farmer.
 
 152 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS. 
 
 One of the results of the disturbances caused 
 by the revolutionary movement was an 
 almost total cessation of passenger traffic 
 upon the North "Western of Uruguay line. 
 So few people were moving about, that for a 
 little while after the outbreak of hostilities, 
 one train only each way every other day was 
 found to be amply sufficient for the traffic. 
 As there was no train running on the day 
 we wanted to make a start for the Cuareim 
 River, it became necessary for us to have a 
 ' special.' We left Salto at 7 o'clock a.m., 
 and, after stopping at several stations to look 
 at the line, we arrived at Isla de Cabellos 
 (then the terminus of the line) at 11 o'clock 
 a.m. We passed a considerable encampment
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS 153 
 
 of soldiers near the Arapey bridfre, the hist 
 battalions of the force that was posted here to 
 prevent the apprehended landing of the revo- 
 lutionists at this point of the river. 
 
 From Isla de Cabellos four of us, with a 
 peon who acted as our body servant, started 
 on horseback for the Cuareim River just 
 beyond Santa Rosa. We rode from noon till 
 sunset (6.30), at a steady pace, varying the 
 amble by cantering now and again, which 
 was a great relief to me, unaccustomed as I 
 was to the motion of the Uruguayan horses. 
 The endless roUins; downs over which we 
 rode appeared to be very beautiful of their 
 kind, splendid downlands rolling on in great 
 billows league after league, and bearing a 
 marked resemblance to our own Dorset downs 
 at home, only cast in a rather larger mould, 
 the finest pasture land simply waiting for 
 men to come and run up fences, and needing 
 absolutely nothing more to make the best of 
 grazing farms. Elsewhere one hears of the 
 toil of settlers in clearing their land, labour 
 which in many parts means an initial cost of
 
 154 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 from 5/. to 15/. an acre. But on the rolling 
 downs of Uruguay man is called upon to do 
 nothing, for the land is provided ready for 
 him, with the best possible of permanent pas- 
 tura2:e laid down for his use. No wonder 
 that during the last few years of great general 
 
 THE PLAINS. 
 
 depression, the River Plate country has come 
 through it almost mitouched. 
 
 On these endless grassy downs there are 
 no trees, save just along the gullies of the 
 little streams, and about the estancias, which 
 dot the plains at intervals of about every three 
 miles. Though we were at an elevation of 
 certainly not over a thousand feet, the air was 
 as invigorating and delicious as on a moun-
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS 155 
 
 tain-top, which may perhaps be due to its 
 excessive purity. The herds of cattle and the 
 flocks of sheep we 2>assed seemed absolutely 
 countless, as we rode on hour after hour, on 
 the springy sward, without drawmg rein for 
 a sino^le o;ate. 
 
 We passed numbers of ostriches (rhea), 
 which came quite close to us, and here and 
 
 OSTRICHES. 
 
 there herds of deer. Also large numbers of a 
 very handsome bu'd, the teru-tero — a kind of 
 peewit — so called from its cry. It is much 
 disliked by sportsmen, as it possesses the soul 
 of a common informer, and gives notice of 
 their approach to other game. We saw many 
 fine tawny-winged vultures, some beautiful 
 white herons, and numbers of little owls, 
 which sat about on any small eminence they 
 could find, and blinked away in the full blaze
 
 156 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 of the sun. We smelt the strong odour of a 
 skunk, hut did not see him. By the side of 
 a marshy pool we saw some beautiful white 
 herons which allowed us to come close up to 
 
 WHITE HERONS. 
 
 them. We passed many of the carts of the 
 country drawn by long teams of oxen. The 
 weight these carts carry is amazing. It is 
 not uncommon for three, four, or five tons 
 to be loaded on their two great wheels, ten 
 to twelve feet in diameter. These carts make 
 very slow progress, just ^crawling along at 
 a snail's pace. The drivers camp out at 
 night in the open fields, and the oxen graze 
 where they will on the plains, no one object- 
 ino-. We met arreat droves of cattle coming 
 down from Rio Grande to the saladeros of 
 Northern Uruguay. These also feed en route
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS 157 
 
 without charo'e, but the time cannot be far 
 distant when the hindowners will raise objec- 
 tions, one result of which will be an increase 
 of traffic on the railways. 
 
 ox CAET. 
 
 We slept at night^at a small ranche on the 
 plains, where the accommodation was rough 
 enough. But, rolled up in sufficient rugs on 
 a ' catre ' — the local trestle bed — with the stars 
 shining brightly through the chinks in the 
 roof overhead, I slept soundly. Our peon slept 
 on the ground outside under his heavy poncho 
 (see p. 214), every portion of him, including 
 his head, tucked carefully away underneath it. 
 Next morning, before breakfast, we pushed on 
 to Santa Rosa, and later m the day went down 
 to the Cuareim River, which forms the northern 
 boundary between the Banda Oriental and 
 Brazil. Small by comparison with the Uru- 
 guay River, into which it runs three miles
 
 158 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 beyond Santa Rosa, the Cuareim is yet a large 
 river, being about three times the width of the 
 Thames at Westminster Bridge. The river, 
 however, is very shallow during most of the 
 year, and even when in full flood the water 
 does not come down with a rush, being 
 mainly flood water from the Uruguay River. 
 The padre of Santa Rosa told us he remem- 
 bered the Cuareim River entirely drying up, 
 and that the people of Santa Rosa went out 
 and had a feast in the bed of the stream, 
 which is of solid rock, to celebrate the event. 
 I have never seen more beautifully coloured 
 crystal pebbles than those which lie in multi- 
 tudes along the bed of the Cuareim River. I 
 filled my pockets with as many as a due 
 regard for the feelings of my horse would 
 allow me to carry. 
 
 Brazil has no harbour worthy of the name 
 south of Santos. The result of this is that 
 the southern provinces of Brazil have no sea- 
 outlet except by the Uruguay River. Conse- 
 quently the trade carried on by the southern 
 provinces with the outside world goes by
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS 159 
 
 way of the Uruguay River, antl not through 
 Brazilian ports. 
 
 The Uruguay River is generally navigahle 
 for 200 miles, and at times for 400 miles, above 
 Santa Rosa. From Santa Rosa to Salto the 
 river for purposes of navigation is useless. All 
 transit of traffic over this portion of it has to go 
 by land, except at times of unusual flood, which 
 generally occurs in the months of August and 
 September, when a certain amount of down 
 traffic is possible. The river falls about a 
 hundred and fifty feet in the hundred miles 
 between Santa Rosa and Salto, and the nume- 
 rous boulders and rapids practically stop navi- 
 gation between these towns. To provide for 
 this traffic, the North Western of Uruguay 
 Railway has been built on the Banda Oriental 
 side, and the East Argentme Railway on the 
 Argentine side. The bulk of the traffic vnH 
 probably before long go by the Banda Oriental 
 line — which, though the first commenced, has 
 been the last finished of these two Imes — 
 as nine out of every ten tons of goods that 
 are sent up the Uruguay into South Brazil
 
 160 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 are consigned through Monte Video. By for- 
 warding them on to Brazil by the line on the 
 Banda Oriental side, all the troubles conse- 
 quent upon passing through an additional 
 custom-house are avoided, which would not be 
 the case if they were sent by the East Argen- 
 tine line. Another thing that will operate in 
 favour of the Uruguayan railway is, that the 
 inhabitants of the province of Rio Grande de 
 Sul, and of the Banda Oriental, are to all 
 intents one and the same people. The Banda 
 Oriental was originally part of Brazil, and 
 although it is now a separate country, a close 
 intercourse has been kept up, and a very 
 friendly feeling exists between the people of 
 Uruguay and those dwelling in the neigh- 
 bouring provinces of Brazil. 
 
 The Banda Oriental has been both the 
 cause and the scene of much contention in 
 times past between the Argentine Republic 
 and Brazil. Situated at the mouth of the 
 River Plate, and possessing a fine climate and 
 good soil, it was on the one hand relinquished 
 unwillingly by Brazil, and on the other hand
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS 1()1 
 
 coveted by the Ari^entine Republic. liut 
 peace lias long been maintained between these 
 two great neighbours of this Belgium of the 
 River Plate, for its integrity has been guaran- 
 teed by England, though few Englishmen 
 probably are aware of their responsibilities in 
 this matter. It was due to the action of Lord 
 Palmerston that England pledged herself to 
 take up arms with Brazil as against the Argen- 
 tine Republic, and with the Argentine Republic 
 as against Brazil, if either should in future in- 
 fringe the integrity of Uruguay. The result 
 is that the Banda Oriental is practically se- 
 cured against external enemies. Many of the 
 inhabitants of the Banda Oriental would be 
 glad if their country could throw in its lot 
 with the Argentine Republic. There are very 
 excellent reasons for their desiring this, in the 
 great saving that would be effected in the 
 cost of government. The maintenance of a 
 separate army and navy, diplomatic and con- 
 sular services, and the additional expenses of 
 every kind which separate government in- 
 volves, mean a higher rate of taxation than that 
 
 M
 
 162 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 to which dwellers in the Argentine Republic 
 are subject, and this is a decided disadvan- 
 tage to any country which looks to attracting 
 new settlers ; for, other things being equal, 
 newcomers prefer the country where taxa- 
 tion is least onerous. The prospect, however, 
 of the Banda Oriental joining the Argentine 
 Republic is remote, for Brazil would raise the 
 strongest objections, and by the terms of her 
 guarantee England would be bound to sup- 
 port Brazil. 
 
 Precisely the same holds good in reference 
 to any reunion between the Banda Oriental 
 and Brazil, but this is an event which would 
 not be the least likely to occur as long as 
 Brazil remains as she is now. There is, how- 
 ever, a third alternative which might possibly 
 arise. It is far from unlikely that, before many 
 years are over, Brazil will break up into two, 
 or more, separate countries. There are several 
 causes tending in this direction : the antago- 
 nism which exists between the comparatively 
 energetic dwellers in South Brazil, and the 
 sleepy, stationary, mixed races of tropical
 
 ACROSS THE PLAINS 1C3 
 
 Brazil : the strong preference for a republican 
 form of government wliicli prevails in the 
 southern provinces : and the imwieldy size of 
 the country and its geographical configuration, 
 which from want of rivers to draw the people 
 together does not foster union. All these tend 
 to render it by no means improbable that the 
 southern provinces of Brazil will set up an 
 independent existence, and then, after a tem- 
 porary separate existence, they may very 
 naturally enter into a union with the Banda 
 Oriental. 
 
 H 2
 
 164 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 CHAPTER XYI. 
 
 THE LAND OF TONGUES. 
 
 After leaving Salto, we paid a visit to Con- 
 cordia on the opposite bank of the river, in the 
 province of Entre Rios, in the Argentine Re- 
 public. Thence we dropped down the river to 
 Paysandii, passing on our way, a little above 
 Paysandii, the dangerous Corralitos reef, so 
 named from the rocks lying in a circle in the 
 bed of the river. We next passed the entrance 
 to the Arroyo Mala, in the neighbourhood 
 of which is Las Delicias and several other fine 
 estancias, and a little later the bold bluff of Mesa 
 de Artigas, so called because in the war of in- 
 dependence (1814) General Artigas rolled his 
 prisoners of war, sewn up in ox-hides, down 
 the cliif side into the river below. 
 
 Paysandii (Pay, father ; Sandii, name of
 
 THE LAND OF TONGUES 
 
 105 
 
 a Jesuit priest), the second city in the Banda 
 Oriental, is a large thriving phice. Its im- 
 portance is mainly due to its being, though 
 some way up the river, a fairly good port for 
 seagoing ships, as vessels of from 500 to 600 
 tons burden can discharge here, while at Salto 
 there is not depth of water for ships of more 
 than from 200 to 300 tons. Paysandu stands 
 
 LAS DELICIAS. 
 
 back from the river about a mile, situated on 
 a hill looking down on the j)ort, with which it is 
 connected by a tramway. The country round 
 is well wooded and the lands very fertile, and 
 in the streets of the town there are many 
 trees, which give it a very attractive appear- 
 ance. 
 
 As yet no railway has come to Paysandu.
 
 166 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 Before long the Midland Railway of Uruguay 
 will connect Paysandii with Salto towards the 
 west, and, by effecting a junction with the 
 Central Uruguay Railway at Paso de los 
 Toros (Bull-Ford), will connect Paysandii 
 with Monte Video towards the east. It is a 
 kind of accepted belief that a railway cannot 
 answer along the course of a navigable river. 
 It might be so if great rivers were always upon 
 their good behaviour ; but unfortunately they 
 are not, and when one considers what discom- 
 forts wet windy days entail upon travellers on 
 a river at least half a mile wide, it is not 
 difficult to realise the determined preference 
 exhibited for travelling by rail when there is 
 the opportunity of doing so. The steamer 
 drops anchor 100 yards from the shore, a 
 small boat comes off, and one has, at great dis- 
 advantage, to drive a hurried bargain with the 
 boatman. It rains pitilessly, one's poor little 
 traps and belongings get thoroughly saturated 
 and knocked about, and one finds oneself de- 
 posited, as likely as not, in a sea of mud, which 
 must be traversed somehow for fifty yards or
 
 THE LAND OF TONGUES 1G7 
 
 more, before tlie tram-car or a carrian-e can be 
 reached. This is what disembarkation really 
 means on a giant river, and at times the 
 miseries of it can hardly be exaggerated. For 
 o'oods traffic there are all the vexations con- 
 nected with the custom-houses, for not a bale 
 of goods can be shipped for transit by river, 
 even from one town to another in the same 
 province, without as much investigation as if 
 it were going to a foreign country. AYhen 
 duties are levied upon exports as well as upon 
 imports, transit by river involves trouble both 
 when shipping and when landing the cargo. 
 
 The portion of the Midland Railway which 
 is about to be made between Salto and Pay- 
 sandii will be about eighty-five miles in 
 length. The country is precisely similar to 
 that throucrli which the North Western of 
 Uruguay Railway runs, consisting of fenced- 
 in cattle farms on undulating grassy plains, in 
 part with deep rich soil, but mostly with a 
 friable rock just below the surface. The land 
 in this part of the country, and also in the 
 pro\^nce of Salto, looks as if it might prove to
 
 168 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 be specially suitable for the growth of the 
 vine. In a few places attempts in this direc- 
 tion have been made, and near Salto I saw a 
 vineyard which looked most promising. Olives 
 and oranges do well in the gardens, but no 
 serious effort has been made to cultivate them 
 for profit. 
 
 We visited Maccoll's ox-tongue preserving 
 establishment at Paysandii, the products of 
 which are so well known on English breakfast 
 tables. I was surprised to find how small a 
 place it was, and then I discovered that of the 
 500,000 tongues Maccoll supplies to his cus- 
 tomers yearly, only a tenth part (50,000) are 
 cured and tinned at Paysandii. This is only 
 what one would expect when one comes to re- 
 flect, for where the cattle are slaughtered there 
 must the tongues be preserved. They cannot 
 be carried about in a hot sub-tropical climate 
 before they are tinned, especially as it is in 
 summer that the saladeros w^ork, when the 
 cattle are in prime condition after feeding on 
 the spring herbage. I was rather amused one 
 day in London, m the spring of 1887, to be
 
 THE LAND OF TONGUES 109 
 
 told, as an alarming piece of news in connec- 
 tion with cholera, which had broken out in tlie 
 Banda Oriental, that Maccoll's establishment 
 at Paysandii had been entirely closed. I 
 rather surprised my informant when I re- 
 marked that even if Maccoll's establishment 
 at Paysandii was entirely closed, it would 
 only mean that the establishment which pro- 
 duced a tenth part of the ' Paysandii ox 
 tongues ' was not in work. 
 
 One thing much needed at Paysandii, as 
 indeed everywhere in the Banda Oriental, is 
 improved roads. There was much rain when 
 we were there, and more than once it took 
 five horses abreast to o-et our lio-ht covered 
 van through the slouoh of mud. Dwellers in 
 the Banda Oriental are apt to complain of the 
 taxation they have to bear. It may be some- 
 what heavier than in the Argentine Republic, 
 yet it is difficult for an Englishman to sym- 
 pathise deeply with their complaints m this 
 respect. The indirect taxation the ' Orientals ' 
 are subject to, chiefly in the form of duties at 
 the custom-house on imported manufactured
 
 170 
 
 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 goods, is heavy, varying from 30 to 75 per 
 cent. But the direct taxation (in town and 
 country ahke) is comparatively light, being 
 about one-half per cent, on the capital value. 
 On a house or other real property valued at 
 1,000^., the annual tax is one-half per cent, on 
 
 OUE LIGHT VAN 
 
 the capital value, or 5/. If we assume that 
 the interest on 1,000/. may be reckoned at 
 the rate of five per cent., the tax is a tenth of 
 the assumed rent. But if we put the rate of 
 interest as high as eight or ten per cent., 
 which is the normal rate in the country, the
 
 THE LAND OF TONGUES 171 
 
 local tax comes to about one-twentieth of the 
 rent, instead of amounting to one-sixth, fifth, 
 or even fourth of the rent, as too often 
 happens in urban districts at home. This 
 method of levying the tax on the capital 
 value, and not on the letting value, is cer- 
 tainly a very fan* one. An English mansion 
 sells for, say, 10,000/. and lets for 200/. a year. 
 We tax it, not on its capital value, but on its 
 letting value. On its capital value, calculated 
 at four per cent., it would be rated at 400/. a 
 year, and should pay accordingly. The system 
 of levying taxes on the capital value, and not 
 on the letting value, is followed in the 'Argen- 
 tine Republic as well as in the Banda Oriental. 
 It exists nearer home in the Channel Islands. 
 In the Banda Oriental there is a fixed 
 maximum amount for local taxes. No matter 
 where one takes up one's abode, one knows 
 exactly how much one is liable to be called 
 upon to pay. On the other hand, the local 
 body (corresponding to a local board or town 
 council), which has the expenditure of the 
 money, cannot render the dwellers within
 
 172 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 the area of its jurisdiction liable to pay one 
 farthing more than the one-half per cent, on 
 the capital value of their property. No doubt 
 this is the reason why so many streets and 
 roads are badly kept, gaping open every now 
 and again as if eager to entomb one alive. Yet 
 in spite of such drawbacks, the ratepayers 
 must regard the fixed law of contribution as 
 a merciful providence watching over their 
 interests. 
 
 During recent years there has been a 
 heavy fall in the value of live-stock in the 
 River Plate, mainly owing to the great in- 
 crease in the world's stock of sheep and cattle. 
 This fall in values has been in a large degree 
 made up for by the natural increase in num- 
 bers, and much more than made up for to those 
 who own their farms, by the enormous rise that 
 has taken place in the value of their land. 
 Ten years ago land could be purchased freely 
 for from 150/. to 500/. a league (ten square 
 miles), but similar land cannot be obtained now 
 for less than from 1,000/. to 5,000/. a league. 
 The picked estancias on the River Uruguay
 
 THE LAND OF TONGUES 
 
 173 
 
 may be put down as being worth quite 5,000/. 
 a league. The cost of purchasing a league of 
 good land, putting up buildings and stocking 
 a farm, may be estimated as follows : — 
 
 One league (6,660 acres) of 
 
 good land 
 
 £ 
 . 3,000 
 
 Three thousand sheep at os 
 
 •   • . 
 
 850 
 
 Four hundred cattle at 21. 
 
 
 800 
 
 Estancia buildings 
 
 
 300 
 
 Twenty horses at 41. . 
 
 
 80 
 
 Carts and fencing 
 
 
 300 
 
 Three shepherd huts . 
 
 
 90 
 
 Corrals (inclosed yards for 
 
 cattle) 
 
 70 
 
 £5,490 
 
 An estancia built for 300/. will not be one 
 of a very magnificent kind, but ' it will serve.' 
 A friend of mine who is farming prosperously 
 in the Banda Oriental, after havins; abandoned 
 New Zealand in disgust, told me that in New 
 Zealand he purchased 800 acres from the 
 State, but that to clear them and bring them 
 into a state of cultivation cost him about 15/. 
 an acre, and he said that his was no unusual 
 experience. In the Banda Oriental no clear- 
 ing is necessary ; nature has done everything 
 except put up the fences.
 
 174 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 The Banda Oriental most wisely maintains 
 a gold currency, while both her neighbours, 
 Brazil and the Argentine Republic, have a 
 forced paper currency. The evil of a forced 
 paper currency is the constant fluctuation 
 in value to which it is subject. Its value 
 never remains constant, and this adds an 
 element of great uncertainty to every contract 
 of a running or future character which has 
 to be met in gold. The foreign dealer who 
 comes to buy wool or hides in the Argentine 
 Republic has to take into consideration the 
 possibility of fluctuation in the rate of ex- 
 change before the time of payment has 
 arrived, which adds an unnecessary element 
 of risk to commercial transactions. As an 
 instance of the way in which a forced paper 
 currency may fluctuate, I may mention that 
 when I left Brazil for the River Plate, I took 
 away with me Brazilian notes to the then 
 current value of 61. On my return to Brazil 
 two months later, these notes were worth a 
 trifle over 8/., the premium on gold having 
 fallen so considerably in that short time.
 
 THE LAND OF TONGUES 175 
 
 South America is not altogether a bad 
 field for governesses. They are very fairly paid 
 and have good opportunities of marrying well. 
 One lady told me that she had nothing but 
 trouble with her governesses, for they no 
 sooner came out than they got married. She 
 said that slie felt inclined to make an agree- 
 ment with them that they should not leave 
 her for at least a year after coming out, but 
 that she was afraid they might make them- 
 selves disagreeable if under terms of this 
 kind. Daily governesses naturally make the 
 largest incomes, and I was told of one in 
 Rio who was earning as much as 250/. 'a year. 
 Some governesses, however, do not like the 
 sort of life they have to put up with at all. 
 One governess we met was lea\dng a very 
 comfortable place because there was no church 
 to go to on Sundays, and she felt she could 
 not get along without it. 
 
 Before passing on to the Argentine 
 Republic, I must say a few words con- 
 cerning the horses of the Banda Oriental. 
 They are firm, sound, and smew}-, with
 
 176 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 capital quarters, shapely heads, and clean 
 legs. They work splendidly, and can do 
 their forty miles a day easily, with no other 
 feed than the natural herbage of the country. 
 They are mostly of a bay colour, and very 
 docile. In price they range from ll. to 51., 
 anything above the last figure being a fancy 
 figure. Mares are never used for riding. 
 
 The natives are very fond of equipping 
 their horses showily. The bits, stirrups, and 
 spurs are huge, and very often made of silver. 
 The reins also are silver mounted. These 
 silver trappings are thought very highly of, 
 and often descend for generations as heir- 
 looms. The spurs look like horrible instru- 
 ments of torture, but I do not think they are 
 used at all savagely. As some set-off to the 
 heavy bits and spurs, the horses are ridden 
 unshod, and the firmness of tread resulting 
 from this is very marked. The horses are all 
 well saddled, and girthed under the belly 
 with broad string girths from about 10 to 
 12 inches wide. These girths give a very 
 firm hold to the saddle, and are cool to the
 
 THE LAND OF TONGUES 177 
 
 horse and a support to liiiu in long journeys. 
 The grip they give to the saddle is very neces- 
 sary for the purpose of using the lasso, which 
 is attached to a ring on the saddle. AVhen 
 lassoing a bullock, two men fling lassos 
 simultaneously, and gallop off in different 
 directions ; the lassos come taut with a sudden 
 jerk, flinging, the bullock on the ground and 
 trying girths, horses, and riders to the utmost. 
 Small boys spend hours practising witli the 
 lasso at a horned skull of an ox laid on the 
 gTound. It is fortunate that horses are so 
 cheap, as it enables everyone to ride. Work- 
 men going to their work ride ; the milkman 
 comes to your door on horseback ; the besfo'ars 
 would ride if there were any, but luckily 
 there are none, save here and there a cripple 
 incapable of bestriding a horse, who is 
 licensed to solicit alms. The milkman makes 
 his butter on his rounds to his customers. 
 On either side of his saddle han": two lono- tin 
 canisters full of milk, and the jog-trot of the 
 horse converts the contents into butter as he 
 rides along. He does not sell the milk with- 
 
 N
 
 178 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 out the butter ; if you take butter you can 
 have milk, but not vice versa. 
 
 When travelling any distance, especially 
 if time is important, several spare horses 
 are taken, and as one horse tires, he is un- 
 saddled and recovers himself by travelling 
 unburdened. The horses are about fourteen 
 and a half hands high. Their pace — they 
 travel about six miles an hour — is very trying 
 at first ; it is an amble, the rider jogging on 
 without rising in the saddle. The seat of the 
 natives is that of the warrior, with long straight 
 leg, riding by balance, not the bent knee of the 
 jockey. It occurred to me that our military 
 authorities might do well to mount a portion 
 of our light cavalry on these horses. Any 
 number of them can be got, which, including 
 transit to England, would not cost more than 
 from 15/. to 20/. each. The regular cavalry 
 of the Banda Oriental, of which we saw a 
 considerable number, were as well mounted 
 a body of troops as one would wish to see. 
 Their horses would look a trifle small be- 
 side our cavalry regiments, but they were
 
 THE LAND OF TONGUES 179 
 
 thorouglily fitted for their work, and indeed 
 likely to easily wear out more heavily built 
 horses. 
 
 In England we convey land by docu- 
 ments of formal shape ; in the River Plate 
 countries they convey horses thus. In order 
 to facilitate the documentary identification of 
 horses every horse has a conspicuous mark 
 branded on his hind quarters. These marks 
 are carefully described in the government 
 documents of title which all owners of horses 
 possess, and without which no transfer of a 
 horse is valid. 
 
 X 2
 
 180 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 BUENOS AYRES AND LA PLATA. 
 
 Buenos Ayres, with a population of some 
 three hundred and twenty-five thousand, lies 
 along the southern bank of the River Plate. The 
 river is so wide at this point that the opposite 
 shore cannot be seen, and indeed, as far as 
 appearances go, the city might be situated on 
 the open sea. Like Monte Video, the city is 
 well placed with regard to effect, and pre- 
 sents a grand appearance when approached by 
 water. Unfortunately for Buenos Ayres, the 
 expanse of water lying before it is so shallow 
 that the great ocean-going vessels have to lie 
 nine miles out, unless they care to risk coming 
 up a narrow buoyed channel to the Boca. 
 
 Landing at Buenos Ayres from an ocean- 
 going steamer accordingly involves a long jour-
 
 BUENOS AYRES AND LA PLATA 181 
 
 ney by boat, and, as even the boats draw too 
 much water to get to shore, high two- wheeled 
 carts are driven into the water, until the water 
 just covers the horses' backs, their heads alone 
 being above water, and into these carts the 
 passengers and their baggage are transferred. 
 
 Buenos Ayres will bear comparison, as 
 far as buildings go, with European cities. 
 Throughout the city palatial buildings are 
 rapidly taking the place of moderate- sized 
 houses, the larger and more imposing struc- 
 tures being already sufficiently numerous to 
 give tone to the city. Admirable tramways 
 run throughout the city and far into the 
 suburbs. Buenos Ayres, like most South 
 American cities, is laid out upon the chess- 
 board plan. If it were not for the tramways, 
 the roads would be found most irksome to get 
 about, the unevenness of the metalling being 
 simply astounding to a European. Ruts and 
 hollows in which one could lie down and dis- 
 appear abound. Several of the roads have 
 never been metalled, and are still mere 
 earthen tracks. In dry weather they are
 
 182 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 inches deep in dust, and when heavy rain 
 comes on, they are a deep sea of Hquid mud. 
 Until one has seen the extraordmary way in 
 which these earthen roads convert themselves 
 into absolute bogs, one cannot fully appreciate 
 how realistic is the story of the man who, 
 picking his way along one of these mudways, 
 saw a hat apparently floating on the surface. 
 He kicked it with his foot, and was surprised 
 to hear a gruff* voice from underneath say, 
 
 ' Leave my hat alone.' 
 
 ' Who are you ? ' 
 
 ' Who am I ? Why, I'm the conductor on 
 the top of an omnibus.' 
 
 One cannot expect everything to come 
 quite straight all at once, especially when 
 there is a limit to the rates local authorities 
 may levy, but such little inconveniences will 
 doubtless be righted in time. 
 
 A complete system of main drains has 
 been constructed in Buenos Ayres. The com- 
 pletion of the new sewers was celebrated by 
 a series of banquets held inside them. The 
 authorities, however, appear to be in no hurry
 
 BUENOS AYRES AND LA PLATA 183 
 
 to complete the drainage scheme by connecting 
 the houses with drains, and, until this is done, 
 it is difficult to see how the drains can be of 
 much service. 
 
 The Argentine Republic, like the United 
 States, has a double system of government, 
 national (or federal) and provincial. The 
 rights of the respective governments to some 
 extent overlap, and sometimes a conflict of 
 jurisdictions arises. Such a conflict arose in 
 connection with the drainage of Buenos Ayres. 
 The sewers were built by the national 
 government, which has its seat at Buenos 
 Ayres. 
 
 In the course of making the sewers 
 the authorities had to expropriate certain 
 lands belonging to an Englishman, but before 
 paying him for his land they sent the con- 
 tractors to take possession. He refused to 
 give up possession until he had received pay- 
 ment for his land, and he called in the aid of 
 the police of the province of Buenos Ayres 
 to protect him against the contractors. The 
 national government replied by sending sol-
 
 184 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 diers to oust the police of the provincial 
 government. A somewhat curious impasse. 
 
 The Plaza Victoria at Buenos Ayres 
 extends over eight acres, and is surrounded 
 by many eiFective buildings — the Cathedral, 
 Bishop's Palace, Government House, Opera 
 House, Post Office, and Custom House. 
 Buenos Ayres has about a dozen plazas of 
 from eight to twelve acres in size. The 
 largest is the Plaza Constitucion (16 acres), 
 formerly the great wool market, and now 
 chiefly remarkable for being fronted on one 
 side by the terminal station of the Great 
 Southern of Buenos Ayres Railway. 
 
 This station would probably astonish some 
 of the shareholders if they saw it. Its marble 
 halls and staircases, with magnificent lions 
 couchant, are laid out on truly magnificent 
 lines. It would put Euston or Paddington 
 . quite into the shade. I went over the station 
 barracas (stores) for wool, hides, grain, etc., 
 and they seemed to be excellently arranged. 
 Complaints are sometimes made, and perhaps 
 not without reason, about the free railway
 
 BUENOS AYRES AND LA PLATA 185 
 
 passes given to strangers visiting tlie country 
 by the officials of English railway companies 
 in the Argentine Republic. When I was in 
 Buenos Ay res, two rich young Englishmen, 
 possessing more money than they well knew 
 what to do with, were given the free use, for 
 a month, of a saloon carriage on the Buenos 
 Ayres Great Southern Railway. For that 
 time they were able to go where they would, 
 and hitch it on and off to any train, and in 
 fact use it as a sort of movable shooting- 
 box. On many lines the system of free passes 
 causes grumbling amongst the residents, who, 
 having to work hard for their living, see well- 
 to-do strangers travelling about the country 
 free of charge. 
 
 The Buenos Ayres Great Southern is one 
 of the many successful lines of the Argentine 
 Republic. Commenced in 1865, with a capital 
 of 750,000/., and 71 miles of rail, its capital 
 has grown in a little over twenty years to 
 8,000,000/., and its mileage to 825. It has 
 paid an average dividend of 8f per cent, to 
 its shareholders, and has laid aside a reserve
 
 186 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 fund amounting to the respectable figure of 
 400,000?. 
 
 About one-third of the population (320,000) 
 of Buenos Ay res are foreigners. The foreign 
 immigrants, especially the Italians, keep in 
 touch with each other by belonging to 
 various friendly clubs and political societies, 
 and occasionally these associations have made 
 most imposing political demonstrations. As 
 no one is entitled to a vote unless he formally 
 takes up his citizenship, thousands of the 
 most enterprising and thriving of the com- 
 munity are unrepresented in the councils of 
 the State. It is therefore an advantage that 
 they should be linked together in associations 
 which can, when necessary, make their voices 
 heard. It would be better, however, if resi- 
 dents of three years' standing were allowed 
 to exercise the franchise, so that their interests 
 and opinions might have due weight in the 
 councils of the country, of which they form a 
 valuable and important element. The English- 
 speaking community in the River Plate is a 
 very small one and chiefly confined to the
 
 BUENOS AYRES AND LA PLATA 187 
 
 upper middle class, inercliants und estancieros. 
 Of the three strands which make u[) the 
 English-speaking people, the Irish take the 
 lead in the River Plate, next rank the Scotch, 
 and last in point of number and importance 
 come the English proper. 
 
 It is well worth the trouble of 2'ainino; 
 admission to the museum at Buenos Ayres. I 
 say trouble, because we always found it shut, 
 and only got in at last by favour. The fossil 
 forms of antediluvian animals are very re- 
 markable. Great, colossal, scaly armadillos, 
 perfect in every point, yet in spite of their 
 enormous size showino; strikinc; marks of ele- 
 mentary development. They seemed to say 
 to one pathetically, ' We have not survived — 
 how could we ? You can see for yourselves 
 we were never properly equipped for the 
 strusfofle of life.' 
 
 oo 
 
 There is a great deal of stucco in the 
 buildings of Buenos Ayres, but m a climate 
 where this material is able to resist ' the tooth 
 of time ' for years together, it is not so objec- 
 tionable as in England. The prevalence of
 
 188 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 stucco is due to the absence of building stone, 
 and the absence of building stone is due to 
 the province of Buenos Ayres, for 200 miles 
 from the capital, being nothing but one vast 
 tract of rich alluvial deposit. It is owing 
 to the wealth of the province in good soil, 
 that architecturally the city is w^eak. It is 
 really a land of brick, and of brick only, and 
 of brick its buildings should be built. 
 
 Both the English banks at Buenos Ayres 
 are housed in splendid buildings. Handsome, 
 airy, and admirably finished in every particu- 
 lar, they would be an ornament to any city. 
 It seemed rather strange, on going into such 
 stately buildings, to find the clerks doing their 
 work in their shirt sleeves, many of them 
 smoking the everlasting cigarette. No doubt 
 the feeling of incongruity would wear off, but 
 it shows how what we call the ' proprieties ' 
 have to give way before the intense heat and 
 languor of a sub -tropical country. 
 
 The province of Buenos Ayres possesses a 
 soil almost unequalled for richness, a splendid 
 climate, and the advantage of being bounded
 
 BUENOS AYRES AND LA PLATA 189 
 
 on three sides by sea or river : altliougli 
 only a tenth of the whole Argentine Rei)ublic 
 in area, it is as large as Great Britain and 
 Ireland together. The Argentine national 
 government borrows largely in foreign mar- 
 kets, and the governments of most of the pro- 
 vinces do the same ; the province of Buenos 
 Ayres, owing to her great natural advantages, 
 borrows on as good terms as the national 
 government. 
 
 The national and provincial governments 
 can each OTant concessions and raise loans for 
 similar purposes, which is somewhat confus- 
 ino- and misleadino; to the foreimi lender. In 
 the case of railways, for example, the pro- 
 vincial governments can grant concessions for 
 making railways, or for raising loans for such 
 purposes, within the limits of their own terri- 
 tories. The national government has similar 
 powers extending over all the provinces. 
 Consequently unless the joint consent of 
 both is obtained, which frequently is not 
 done, a successful railway made under a 
 provincial concession may be paralleled by
 
 190 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 another railway built under a national con- 
 cession, or vice versa. 
 
 To select a perfectly unoccupied site, and 
 to straightway erect thereon a complete range 
 of government buildings of every description, 
 — legislative chambers, law-courts, treasury, 
 official residences, railway stations, museums — 
 all on the most magnificent scale, without 
 any intermediate growth from smaller begin- 
 nings, is a thing unknown to us in the Old 
 World. Yet this is what has happened at La 
 Plata. Until 1880 the province of Buenos 
 Ayres dominated the Argentine Republic. 
 In wealth and population she outweighed the 
 other provinces, although in area they vastly 
 exceeded her in size. But with the growth of 
 the provinces the domination of Buenos Ayres 
 was threatened. This was too much for their 
 pride, and the provincial government, being 
 no longer able to rule, determined in 1880 to 
 secede from the Confederation. The provincial 
 leaders were eager enough for independence, 
 but the people were only half-hearted about it. 
 They were more intent upon tlieir crops, their
 
 BUENOS AYRES AND LA TLATA 101 
 
 business and their profits, than upon tlie poli- 
 tical status of their ])rovince. The result was 
 that after a short, hollow struggle, the revolt 
 collapsed, and the provincial government had 
 to take up a subordinate position. 
 
 But this was not quite all. The provincial 
 government had hitherto enjoyed the privilege 
 of raising troops of their own. Had it not been 
 for this, the attempt to secede could never 
 have been made. The national o-overnment 
 now withdrew from the provincial govern- 
 ment this pri\Tlege, and the provincial govern- 
 ment were, moreover, given to understand, 
 that there was no longer any room for them in 
 the city of Buenos Ayres. This was the reason 
 of the rise of La Plata. The fiat of the 
 provincial government accordingly went forth, 
 a site was chosen, and thirty miles from 
 Buenos Ayres, in three years, out of the bare 
 plain, the new capital of the province arose. 
 Nothmo- could be more strikins: than to see, 
 side by side, the grand new station rearmg 
 itself loftily alongside the little wooden shed 
 which, when I was there, was still doing
 
 192 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 duty until the new station should be finished. 
 The contrast was startling between the pala- 
 tial station — far more beautiful to look u^on 
 than most of our costly modern classic build- 
 ings in Parliament Street — and the little hut 
 beneath it, looking hardly larger than a good- 
 sized packing case. As the whole of the 
 government busmess of the province, legisla- 
 tive and executive, must of necessity be trans- 
 acted at La Plata, there is a great coming 
 and going of business people, and, in addi- 
 tion to numerous public officials, numbers of 
 agents of all descriptions, find it necessary to 
 reside there permanently. The deputies also 
 must reside during the sittings, and to pro- 
 vide for the wants of all these people, numerous 
 tradespeople are drawn together. The result 
 is that a population of -10,000 has been called 
 together to form a city in the space of three 
 years, where before there was nothing but a 
 few scattered farms. 
 
 Fine buildings were rapidly approaching 
 completion on all sides. Into one of these, 
 which I found to be the new museum, I strolled
 
 BUENOS AYHES AND LA PLATA 193 
 
 unobserved, and had a good look at numbers 
 of excellent specimens of stuffed birds, and 
 also at some very indifferent pictures. Of 
 the birds, the Polyhorus thorns — buteo (falcon) 
 — cathartes (vulture) — and numerous mem- 
 bers of the owl family, were especially worth 
 seeing. When I had just completed my in- 
 vestigations, an official who was busy arrang- 
 ing cases in a remote chamber, courteously 
 informed me that the museum was not yet 
 opened to the public, and that I must depart. 
 The oven bird is common in the River 
 Plate, and is especially partial to a wooden 
 telegi'aph-post as a building site. In the 
 neighbourhood of Ensenada nearly every 
 telegraph-post has its nest, many of the posts 
 carrying two of these domiciles. The hum 
 of the wires doubtless proves a soothing 
 lullaby to the inmates. The nest, which is 
 about the size of a man's head, is in shape 
 somewhat akin to a wren's nest, but rounder, 
 and is composed of mud and straw, like that 
 of an English house-martin. The opening, 
 which is in front, is large and circular, and 
 

 
 194 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 within there is a screen right across the 
 entrance, which makes a hall to the real nest 
 beyond, no doubt to keep the draught out. 
 Owing to the cost of wooden telegraph-posts, 
 old rails are now much used for the purpose 
 of carrying the wires. The oven bird has not 
 as yet taken to the iron telegraph-posts. 
 
 La Plata is lighted by electricity, and the 
 lamp-posts have been very cleverly utilised 
 for the double duty of carrying lamps and 
 telegraph wires. I see no reason why this 
 excellent plan should not be sfenerally adopted. 
 Passing out of La Plata towards Ensenada, 
 the ' bond ' goes under a kind of ' Temple 
 Bar' archway, of a decidedly effective cha- 
 racter, next through a thick belt of well- 
 grown eucalyptus trees, and then down a 
 gentle descent about three miles to the port of 
 Ensenada. Here the provincial government 
 has expropriated an immense area, and built 
 quays, docks, and barra'^as, sufficient for a 
 very large trade. Ensenada has a double ad- 
 vantage over Buenos Ayres as a port, in that 
 ships can reach Ensenada by a buoyed channel
 
 BUENOS AYRES AND LA PLATA 195 
 
 somethmg under four miles, instead of nine 
 miles, in length, and that owing to the pro- 
 vincial government hving expropriated the 
 whole of the land there, for the harbour and 
 quays, the dues are much less, and the rent 
 of the barracas lower, than at Buenos Ayres. 
 Buenos Ayres, however, possesses the traffic 
 which Ensenada hopes to get, and whether 
 Ensenada will be able to divert it, or any 
 substantial portion of it, can only be deter- 
 mined by the lapse of time. 
 
 Ensenada is a very long straggly place, 
 and on the rainy afternoon I was there pre- 
 sented a most dismal appearance. The state 
 of the road for a mile from where the tram 
 put me down was one continuous quagmire 
 of the most awful character. I gave myself 
 up for lost more than once, and fully expected 
 to be dug out in some remote geological j^eriod 
 — a curious and interesting fossil. 
 
 2
 
 196 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 CHAPTER XVIIL 
 
 THE CAMP. 
 
 There is plenty of shooting to be had in the 
 ' Camp,' as the country is called in the province 
 of Buenos Ayres. Swan, goose, flamingo, 
 duck, grebe, water-hen, snipe, partridge, deer, 
 ostrich, skunk, hare, and guanaco (a sort 
 of deer) make up a very good bag. The 
 partridge is rather larger than our English 
 bird, but disappointing when cooked, the 
 flesh being white and rather tasteless. Those 
 who want better sport than a comparatively 
 settled country can afford, will take the com- 
 fortable river steamers to the Grand Chaco 
 or Paraguay, where they will meet with game 
 in abundance of all kinds. 
 
 Much of the country about Buenos Ayres is 
 well cultivated. A kind of clover called ' alfalfa '
 
 THE CAMP 197 
 
 grows with prodi<^ious rapidity. We saw a 
 field of it growing with the utmost luxuri- 
 ance, from wliich five crops had been cut 
 within the preceding twelve months. I was 
 struck by seeing whole fields of tomatoes 
 trained on sticks like peas, and bearing most 
 abundantly. The land is nearly all fenced 
 in with fences made of iron wire run on 
 nandubay posts, Nandubay is an extremely 
 hard Avood, u-on-like in texture. It is so 
 hard that the posts are not squared into 
 formal shape, and the effect is rather pleasing. 
 It is a kind of acacia, of small growth, and 
 resists decay for a hundred years. Vast 
 quantities of nandubay posts have been cut 
 in Entre Rios and Corrientes. It is greatly 
 in request for railway-sleepers, but is now 
 getting very scarce. 
 
 Riding about the country, one often sees 
 for long distances together, innumerable ab- 
 surd little owls {^Athene cunicidana) , sitting 
 on every post. Daylight does not seem to 
 inconvenience them as it does their English 
 cousins. They appear very friendly, and will
 
 198 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 let one come almost near enough to touch 
 them. They gaze at one with much mterest : 
 then- heads only moving and almost imper- 
 ceptibly. As they never take their eyes off 
 one, and never move their bodies in order to 
 get a better view of one, their heads only 
 travelling round while their bodies remain 
 immovable, one has only to walk round one 
 of them in order to twist its neck. 
 
 The roads in the Camp are mere tracks, 
 and very decidedly rough for driving over to 
 those who are not used to them ; for unless 
 one's trap is built so that the wheels fit into 
 the ruts made by the bullock waggons, one 
 travels with one wheel in a rut and the other 
 often elevated a foot up, making an upset a 
 most likely occurrence. Roads cannot be 
 said to exist except in the immediate neigh- 
 bourhood of the big cities in the Argentine 
 Republic. This is equally true of the Banda 
 Oriental. They are mere tracks, which in bad 
 weather become impassable. Bridges, metalled 
 roads, and road drainage, are as yet non- 
 existent. In Uruguay there is a good supply
 
 THE CAMP 199 
 
 of materials for making roads, but over an 
 immense area of Buenos Ayres, and in many 
 other parts, there are no road -making ma- 
 terials of any kind to be obtained. The 
 result is that it is actually cheaper in such 
 places to make railways than roads. Good 
 railways can be made and coached for about 
 5,000/. a mile. Hence the efforts made, and 
 wisely made, by the Argentine Republic to 
 extend its railway system. 
 
 As long as there are neither roads nor 
 railways the country suffers, like the human 
 body, from numerous ills arising from want 
 of proper cumulation. In a roadless land 
 agriculture cannot be profitably carried on ; 
 cattle and sheep, which can carry themselves 
 to market, alone are profitable : and there are 
 limits even to their value. Owing to railway 
 companies being so essential to the welfare of 
 the country, they are not kept so much at 
 arms-length as they are with us at home. It 
 is quite a normal state of things to have 
 level crossings in the busiest cities, trams not 
 bemg expected to get out of every one's way.
 
 200 ZEPHYRUS   
 
 Engine-drivers, however, are held responsible 
 if they run over anyone ; this is somewhat 
 hard upon them, for as a rule they are not to 
 blame. 
 
 One day when leaving Buenos Ayres by 
 train, we suddenly experienced a jerking and 
 jolting, and the train was abruptly brought to 
 a full- stop ; the guard announced that we had 
 knocked over a cart and had killed both horse 
 and driver. In spite of the line being in full 
 sight for some way, and also regardless of the 
 engine-driver's warning whistle, the driver of 
 the cart had kept calmly on his way, crossing 
 the line under the nose of the engine, the 
 natural result of which was that the cart was 
 smashed up and the horse killed, while the 
 driver fortunately escaped with a few bruises. 
 A petition was at once got up and signed by 
 all the passengers, to testify that in their 
 opinion it was no fault of the engine-driver ; 
 it being his only chance of avoiding im- 
 prisonment for reckless driving. In spite of this 
 happening close to Buenos Ayres, it seemed 
 to be no one's business to remove the dead
 
 THE CAMP 201 
 
 carcass of the horse, and for many flays 
 afterwards, we saw the animal's remains by 
 the side of the line, strij^ped of its skin. 
 
 It is quite a common occurrence for a train 
 to run into a herd of cattle, especially in 
 winter time, when the trains often have to be 
 stopped, and all the passengers turned out to 
 assist in clearmg the cattle off the line, hauling 
 them off by their tails, legs, and horns. AVhen 
 locomotives first appeared upon the plains the 
 ostriches were greatly astonished at them, and 
 not being at all inclined to welcome such 
 stransre beasts, whole flocks of them would 
 run full-tilt at the offendmg intruders. They 
 have now gained wisdom by experience. 
 
 Eucalyptus trees planted either in long 
 single rows, or in larger masses arranged 
 with the utmost rectilineal accuracy, are very 
 common in the province of Buenos Ayres. 
 The native trees, which were never numerous, 
 have been felled for rafters, beams, and fire- 
 wood ; all are gone save the ombu, which is 
 useless for even the last of these purposes, its 
 wood being of so spongy a texture that it is
 
 202 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 scarcely firmer than a cabbage-stump. It is 
 fortunate tbat the ODibii has escaped the axe, 
 for, unlike the formal eucalyptus, it is a beau- 
 tiful tree, and at a little distance looks not 
 unlike an English oak. 
 
 Owing to the country about Buenos Ayres 
 being almost a dead level, the scenery is ex- 
 tremely dull. The result is that the men of 
 business who keep country houses naturally 
 prefer to have them along the riverside, as 
 being the only really beautiful part of the 
 country within reach. Wharves, barracas, 
 docks, and quays, witli all their concomitants, 
 monopolise the riverside eastwards of the city. 
 It follows that only along the river westwards, 
 is there any place for a fashionable quarter, 
 and here along this bit of river- coast, for 
 some twenty miles, there are great numbers 
 of country residences, belonging to the wealthy 
 people of Buenos Ayres. Every morning and 
 evening crowds of busy men travel to and fro 
 by the Buenos Ayres Northern Railway, which 
 serves this stretch of country. On this line, 
 four miles from Buenos Ayres, is Palermo.
 
 THE CAMP 
 
 203 
 
 Here on several days in the week a very good 
 band plays, and all the rank, fasliion, and 
 beauty of the neighbourhood meet together, 
 to see and to be seen. The grounds, covermg 
 some 840 acres, are beautifully laid out. In 
 the park of Palermo is a small zoological 
 
 PALERMO PARK. 
 
 garden, restricted almost entirely to the Argen- 
 tine fauna. In the centre of the park is a 
 grand avenue of palms. These palms are 
 some sort of date-palm, the blossom of which 
 is very pretty, resembling a gigantic spike of 
 creamy spirea. The fruit is of a pale yellow, 
 oval shape, about the size of a big cob-nut. 
 
 Belgrano is the next station, about five 
 miles from Buenos Ayres, a very attractive 
 place, with many beautiful quint as (country
 
 204 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 houses). At the end of the line, at Tigre, 
 some twenty miles from Buenos Ayres, a 
 beautifully wooded tributary river flows into 
 the River Plate, and here the Buenos Ayres 
 Rowing Club has its headquarters. The 
 Buenos Ayres Northern Railway has the mono- 
 poly of this valuable tract of riverside pas- 
 senger traffic, yet in spite of this the ordinary 
 shares of the railway are below par. It is a 
 line which might have been made and coached 
 for 6,000/. a mile ; 10,000/. a mile would be 
 a handsome fissure for a double line of rails. 
 At present it is for part of the way still a 
 single line, and yet the capital expenditure of 
 the company stands at 22,000/. a mile. The 
 terminal station in Buenos Ayres is a very 
 poor one, and I heard many complaints of the 
 way the railway fails to meet the wants of 
 the public. It seems strange that, with such 
 advantages in the way of position and traffic, 
 the railway should not have been a more pro- 
 fitable one to the shareholders.
 
 205 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 
 ALONG THE PARAnX. 
 
 RosARio, thougli not the capital, is the largest 
 city in the province of Santa Fe. It is the 
 Liverpool, or perhaps, considering its rapid 
 growth, it might be more aptly termed the 
 Winnipeg of the Argentine Republic. Many 
 of its streets are still mere tracks of dust or 
 mud, according to the season, but the authori- 
 ties are making fair headway, and considering 
 that their forerunners of a generation ago, and 
 even less, were the owl, the hawk, and the 
 wild horse, none of them specially given to 
 city improvements, there is not much to fairly 
 complain about. 
 
 In 1854 Rosario was little more than a big 
 village, with a population of 4,300. It has 
 now a population of more than 50,000, and the
 
 206 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 tonnage of the goods traffic at the port has 
 risen since that date, from 8,000 to 750,000 
 tons. What makes Rosario so important a 
 place is, its being the furthest point on the 
 Parana, to which large ships can come. It is, 
 in fact, the seaport for the large and wealthy 
 province of Cordova, and for the provinces 
 which lie further up country — Tucuman, 
 Salta, and Jujuy. 
 
 The important province of Cordova, which 
 lies to the westward of Santa Fe, entirely shut 
 off from river communication, save by way 
 of Rosario, is the second province in the 
 Argentine Republic, with a population of 
 350,000. As an instance of the enormous 
 rates of interest that are paid in these countries, 
 it may be mentioned that as recently as 1880 
 the wealthy province of Cordova was paying 
 the Bank of Cordova 18 per cent, for an 
 advance. 
 
 The province of Santa Fe is second only 
 to that of Buenos Ayres, in point of natural 
 advantages. The waterway along the Parana 
 brinsrs it into direct contact with the outer
 
 ALONG THE PAKAnX 207 
 
 world, while the country itself is l)Ountifully 
 favoured both as to soil and climate. It is 
 subject neither to droughts nor floods. It is 
 particularly favourable to the growth of wheat, 
 and enormously heavy crops are gathered from 
 half the quantity sown per acre, that we are 
 accustomed to sow in England. 
 
 As far as my experience goes, hotels either 
 omit to provide mosquito curtains altogether, 
 or provide such as offer no effectual resist- 
 ance to the mosquito. Satisfactory mosquito 
 curtains are luxuries only met with in private 
 houses. So detestable do these little brutes 
 make themselves, and so merciless are they, 
 that I think it well to mention an easy way 
 of destroying them by a method not generally 
 known, if one may judge from the number 
 of bedrooms one comes across, in which the 
 walls are blotched all over with the dead 
 bodies of the slain, recording many a pro- 
 tracted hour of midnight torture. The com- 
 mon way to destroy a mosquito is to bludgeon 
 it to death with a towel or a slipper. Pro- 
 vided the mosquito does not escape the blow,
 
 208 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 this is all very well, but they have an irritating 
 way of eluding one. The only sure weapon 
 is a candle, the flame of which should be 
 held about an inch off the wall, and four 
 inches above the mosquito, as he sits perched 
 airing his hind legs on the wall ; then slowly 
 lower the flame down upon the enemy, and 
 when it reaches him, he will give a splutter, 
 and fall dead into the hot grease. Mosquitoes 
 seem to be spellbound by a candle flame, and 
 by resort to this method of destruction, a 
 room may be converted in a few minutes, from 
 a veritable inferno into a place of rest. 
 
 Only those who, when intensely weary, 
 have sufi'ered from the slow torture of repeated 
 attacks from ravenous mosquitos, can fully 
 appreciate the feelings of the Irishman who, 
 after a conflict with mosquitos, seeing a firefly 
 flitting round his chamber, in his despair 
 groaned out, ' Och, Mike, here's one of 
 thim beggars a- come to look for us with a 
 lanthorn.' 
 
 The train by which I left Rosario started 
 at ten o'clock, and by 12.30 we should, in
 
 ALONG THE PARAnX. 200 
 
 the ordinary course of tilings, have reached 
 a station where we might have had the late 
 breakfast of the country. I had debated witli 
 myself when I got up whether I would have 
 an English breakfast before starting, or merely 
 a roll and coffee, and trust to my luck at 
 dejeuner at 12.30. I decided in favour of a 
 substantial breakfast, and luckily so, for just 
 beyond San Nicholas, we found that a train 
 had gone off the rails and ploughed up the Ime 
 for a considerable distance. As it is a single 
 line of rails there was nothing to be done but 
 to unload everything from our train ; carry all 
 the luo:o;ao;e about half a mile alono; the line ; 
 and then reload it on another train, which had 
 been sent to pick us up. About five hours 
 were consumed in this fairly simple proceeding. 
 No doubt the excessive delay arose owmg to 
 the line being scarcely in proper working order, 
 the part we were then on, having only been 
 opened for through traffic from Buenos Ayres 
 to Rosario, on the previous Sunday. I beUeve 
 every passenger excepting myself — and the 
 train was full — started with the intention of 
 
 p
 
 210 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 breakfasting at 12.30. To a slight extent the 
 hunger of the passengers was satisfied by a 
 meagre supply of biscuits from the liquor bar 
 attached to the train, and- by a hatful of raw 
 eggs procured by the barman in a raid he made 
 upon a neighbouring estancia, which he doled 
 out at famine prices. It was past six in the 
 evening before the dejected and hungry pas- 
 sengers reached a station where any food could 
 be obtained. 
 
 When we were at Salto we visited Con- 
 cordia in the province of Entre Rios (between 
 rivers). It is a fair- sized town and of some 
 importance, being the termmus of the East 
 Argentine Railway. This railway (like the 
 North Western of Uruguay) has been built to 
 carry the traffic over the hundred miles of 
 country which the Uruguay river, o-s\4ng to 
 rapids, does not serve. The East Argentine line 
 was finished in 1876, and has obtained a good 
 deal of the traffic coming from Rio Grande 
 and South Brazil. The line is more expen- 
 sively managed than the North Western of 
 Uruguay, and has had to depend mainly upon
 
 ALONG THE PARANA 2 1 1 
 
 the Government guarantee for its dividends. 
 Before many years have passed, the railway 
 will, in all probability, be prolonged into 
 Corrientes and Missiones, and thus become an 
 important link in the highway to Paraguay, 
 No doubt, the advent of a railway will have a 
 sobering influence upon the somewhat lawless 
 inhabitants of Corrientes. Missiones, which 
 is an old Jesuit settlement further up the 
 river, is, from all accounts, a province of ex- 
 treme fertility. 
 
 For ill-treatment of goods by Custom 
 House officials, I must give the palm to those 
 at Concordia. I saw a large wooden case 
 marked ' fragile ' slid out of the lighter on to the 
 shore, and then tilted over and let down with 
 a bang on its side some fifteen to twenty times 
 in succession. By the time it reached the 
 cart which was to remove it to the barraca, 
 it was loosened in all its joints, and had 
 assumed a rhomboidal instead of rectangular 
 shape. 
 
 Entre Rios is rather larger than Ireland, 
 with a population not greater than that of 
 
 p 2
 
 212 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 many English counties (200,000). In general 
 character it is very similar to the Banda 
 Oriental, and enjoys a splendid climate. It 
 lies wedged in between the two giant rivers, 
 the Parand and Uruguay, which from their 
 width operate as barriers to communication 
 between the province and the outer world. 
 This, no doubt, has kept the province back, 
 although it lies almost within hail of Buenos 
 Ayres. But the population, though not nu- 
 merous, is extremely well-to-do, and there can 
 be little doubt that Entre Rios has a very 
 fine future before it.
 
 213 
 
 CHAPTER XX. 
 
 THE GAUCHO. 
 
 The gauclios (native peasants) of the Argen- 
 tine appear to have neither rehgion nor any 
 care for ceremonies and festivals. If it were 
 not for the forms of the oaths and curses they 
 use, it would be impossible to know that one 
 was in a Christian land. In this respect they 
 differ from the gauchos of the Banda Oriental, 
 who are very particular about the due observ- 
 ance of Church functions and festivals. There 
 are not many Indians in the settled parts of 
 the Argentine Republic. The few that may 
 be met with appear to have no religion, and 
 seem to be singularly free from all forms of 
 superstition, save one which they hold to very 
 strongly, that of objecting to being sketched or 
 photographed. The ground of then- repugnance
 
 214 
 
 ZEPIIYRUS 
 
 is the belief that those whose portraits are 
 taken die young. The gauchos of the Banda 
 Oriental are an excellent type of peasant. 
 They are somewhat under the medium size 
 (about 5 ft. 6 in. to 5 ft. 8 in. in stature), 
 
 physically sound and 
 well knit together, 
 and as servants gene- 
 rally are trustworthy. 
 The general ap- 
 pearance of a Uru- 
 guayan gaucho moun- 
 ted on his little horse 
 — he is so constantly 
 in the saddle, that 
 horse and rider are 
 well-nigh mseparable 
 — ^is not unlike that of 
 a Bedouin Arab, if a black slouch hat is sub- 
 stituted for the turban. The swarthy gaucho 
 neither digs nor delves, but he can ride from 
 dawn to sundown, can throw the lasso with 
 unerring aim, and can use his butcher's knife 
 with dexterity and dispatch (see p. 135). The 
 
 A GAUCHO.
 
 THE GAUCIIO 
 
 215 
 
 poncho, which is the distiDguishing feature of 
 his dress, is an oblong fringed shawl (about 
 two yards long by one yard wide), generally 
 of a dun colour patterned in white, having a 
 slit in the middle endways, through which 
 the head is inserted. Occasionally a circular 
 poncho is worn of a dark blue cloth lined with 
 
 BIT, STIRRUP, AND SPUR. 
 
 red. Round the neck is tied a bright coloured 
 silk scarf, and about the waist a bright coloured 
 belt, in which are often lodged knives and 
 pistols. The trousers (chiripa) — of sober 
 colour — are somewhat of Turkish cut, large, 
 loose, and baggy, the ends being tucked into 
 the tops of the heavy boots. The boots are 
 rendered conspicuous by enormous silver 
 spurs, with rowels two to three inches in 
 diameter. A silver-mounted whip completes
 
 216 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 the gaucho's attire, but scarcely less impor- 
 tant are the trappings of his horse. The 
 saddle of richly embossed leather is adorned 
 by silver mountings on the pummel, while 
 the saddle-cloth is often of crimson cloth cut 
 square, the effect of which is admirable. The 
 stirrups of massive silver with ball-like ap- 
 pendages, give room for the toe only to pass 
 through. The heavy steel bit is silver-mounted 
 at the ends, and even the reins and stirrup- 
 leathers are mounted in silver at intervals. 
 Such a costume and trappings indicate a 
 wealthy gaucho, but as all the gauchos are not 
 wealthy, some have to content themselves 
 with plated mountings. 
 
 The gauchos are very fond of soap and 
 water. Water, however, in many parts be- 
 comes very scarce when rain has not fallen for 
 some time, especially in districts where rock 
 lies not far below the surface of the ground. 
 And when this is the case, the gauchos, in 
 their thirst for a bath, make raids on any 
 water tanks that may come in their way. I 
 was led to discover this in rather a curious
 
 THE GAUCIIO 217 
 
 way. I noticed that tlie water tanks and 
 reservoirs at the stations on the North Western 
 of Uruguay Railway were mostly protected at 
 the top by an iron grating. With some curiosity 
 I inquired why these heavy iron gratings were 
 placed over the tanks. Tlie reply was that 
 the gauchos, when these tanks were first erected 
 with open tops, came from all the country 
 round, with soap and towels, and washed them- 
 selves in the water, the result of which was 
 that the boilers of the engines primed badly, 
 and had constantly to be sent to the work- 
 shops for repairs. 
 
 The steady progress of the River Plate 
 is largely due to the uninterrupted influx of 
 Italian immigrants. Although the language 
 of the country is Spanish, seventy per cent, of 
 the immigrants are Italians, who leave their 
 native country (though far from over-popu- 
 lated) to escape the scourge of conscription. 
 Italian peasants find their boys Avill not settle 
 down to work, because of the coming conscrip- 
 tion, and when they quit service in the ranks, 
 they return forgetful of the little they have
 
 218 ZEPHYEUS 
 
 learnt before entering the army, in too many- 
 cases physically exhausted as well as mentally 
 deteriorated. To the agricultural classes whose 
 children are untempered to resist the evils of a 
 town life, the conscription is the greatest curse 
 in life. No wonder that they emigrate in such 
 numbers to lands where they may possess 
 their children in peace. To capitalists this 
 influx of Italian labour is a very mine of 
 wealth, for it is both cheap and good. The 
 Italian peasant, driven from Italy, where he 
 labours for eighteen -pence a day, and lives 
 upon the hardest fare, finds himself in luxury 
 with three shillings a day, and prime meat 
 at twopence a pound. These Italian peasants 
 are preferred to all others as agricultural 
 labourers ; they are laborious, frugal, and con- 
 tented. With a little teaching in the work- 
 shops they make excellent mechanics. They 
 need no acclimatisation, for the climate is 
 almost precisely the same as that to which 
 they have been accustomed. It is this un- 
 usual combination of cheap labour of excellent 
 quality, with a rich virgin soil and fine climate,
 
 THE GAUCIIO 219 
 
 that lias enabled tlie Kiver Plate to prosper 
 so amazingly. 
 
 Very few English people at home have 
 realised as yet the magnitude and impor- 
 tance of the Italian migration to the River 
 Plate. It is estimated that in the past year 
 (1886) no less than 125,000 left Italy for 
 these new and fertile lands. For years past 
 the stream of emigration has been steadily 
 rising. It is estimated that there are now 
 fully 1,000,000 Italian settlers in the River 
 Plate district, that is, in the Argentine Re- 
 public, the Banda Oriental, and in the Brazilian 
 province of Rio Grande do Sul. In the pro- 
 vince of Rio Grande in 1875, there were but 
 a few scattered Italian settlements, while at 
 the present time it is estimated that there are 
 no less than 75,000 Italian farmers settled in 
 this district, all of whom are doing extremely 
 well. So great is the interest taken by Italy 
 in those of her peasantry who have gone out 
 to settle in these new countries, that, although 
 they are in no way politically connected with 
 her, the Italian Government contributes to
 
 220 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 the cost of schools established in these distant 
 colonies, on condition that the teaching is 
 carried on in the Italian language. 
 
 In the course of our travels I met many 
 persons who were well acquainted with our 
 colonies, and they all assured me that not 
 one of them could be compared with the River 
 Plate as to natural advantages. Their opinions 
 appear to be confirmed by the fact, that I came 
 across several persons who were settled in the 
 Plate and doing well, after having tried their 
 luck without success either in Australia, New 
 Zealand, or the Cape. Only in the spring of 
 this year (1887), I received the following in a 
 letter from New Zealand, ' Till we go home. 
 When that will be, goodness only knows, with 
 these wretched times for poor farmers with 
 lots of cattle, sheep, and wool to sell, and no 
 one to buy. I hope you eat frozen mutton 
 to give us a helpmg hand.' With a fruitful 
 land, and good and cheap labour, it should be 
 very long before bad times come to the Eiver 
 Plate. 
 
 In matters legal, the Argentine Republic
 
 THE GAUCIIO 221 
 
 has not as yet earned a very high character. 
 The administration of the law in civil causes is 
 so unreliable, that the mercantile comniunity 
 generally make it a part of every important 
 contract, that any dispute arising under it shall 
 be settled by reference to arbitration. AVhen 
 the possibility of disputes arising, has to be 
 expressly provided for in this manner, the 
 difficulties of bargaining are increased, but at 
 present it seems to be the only safe thing to 
 do. I found that the ' great unpaid ' of the 
 Iiepublic have very easy times upon the bench. 
 At home, as everyone knows who has to do 
 with the magisterial bench, we have three main 
 classes of petty offenders — thieves, poachers, 
 and drunkards, drink often taking the form 
 of assault. The citizens of the Aro-entine 
 Republic do not thieve ; there are no game 
 laws to cause them to offend : and if they 
 take to drink, the drink itself soon handcuffs 
 them, and puts them out of the reach of human 
 gaolers. The magistracy of the River Plate 
 accordingly have little enough to do.
 
 222 ZEPHYEUS 
 
 CHAPTER XXI. 
 
 WHERE THE SHOE WILL PINCH. 
 
 In most new countries the advantage of good 
 and cheap land is to some extent counter- 
 balanced by high wages and a high rate of 
 interest. The River Plate district enjoys the 
 double advantage of cheap labour and cheap 
 land. This enables the farmers of the River 
 Plate to put wool, hides, meat, and tallow into 
 the market at a lower cost for production than 
 any other young country, and pay with ease 
 rates of interest for the loan of money, which 
 English people would regard as exorbitant. 
 The normal rate of interest charged on over- 
 drawn current accounts at the English banks 
 is nine per cent., though by special arrange- 
 ment advances may be obtained at the lower 
 rate of eight per cent. The common rate at
 
 WHERE THE SHOE WILL PINCH 223 
 
 wliich tlie people of the country lend to each 
 other is twelve per cent., and in many cases 
 as much as eighteen per cent, is paid for loans 
 which in England would be readily advanced 
 at five per cent. It is quite obvious from the 
 punctuality with which the interest is paid, 
 that these high rates are not really unfair to 
 the borrower, however extortionate they may 
 appear to us. 
 
 Many persons look with distrust on South 
 American investments, merely on account of 
 their carrying high rates of interest. How can 
 a country, or a province, or a company, pay its 
 way that offers 100/. bonds carrying -six per 
 cent, interest at 85/. or 90/. each ? is a ques- 
 tion English investors often ask with natural 
 suspicion. I must admit that I often asked the 
 same question myself before I visited the River 
 Plate. Now that I have seen the country and 
 know what rates of interest the peoj)le there 
 readily pay to each other for advances, I can 
 understand that loans on such terms may not 
 only be satisfactory to the English lender, but 
 profitable to the River Plate borrower. There
 
 224 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 may be, and naturally are, dishonest govern- 
 ments and dishonest companies and dishonest 
 individuals in South America, just as else- 
 where ; but, granted straightforward dealing 
 and good management, there is no reason 
 whatever, why the high rates of interest pro- 
 mised by the borrowers of the River Plate, 
 should not be punctually paid, quite as easily 
 as the lower rates we pay for similar accom- 
 modation in England. Good investments in 
 the Plate cannot of course be selected at 
 random, any more than they can elsewhere, but 
 if chosen with judgment and knowledge, they 
 will yield the investor steady dividends, and 
 an increasing capital value. 
 
 Many persons of discretion, who invest 
 largely in solid commercial undertakings, are 
 shy of the Government securities, and distrust 
 the finance of the politicians. There is this 
 much to be said in favour of the national 
 securities, that the United States is the ideal 
 of the rulers of the Argentine Confederation. 
 They look to that country as presenting the 
 true picture of human happiness, and soldiers
 
 WHERE THE SHOE WILL PIXCH 22 5 
 
 and wars which drain away the earning\s of 
 the workers to support in idleness those who 
 should be adding to the common stock of 
 human requirements, are not regarded by them 
 in any degree as subjects for satisfaction, much 
 less for glorification as the stock centre-pieces 
 of state pageants. 
 
 The ease with which a high rate of interest 
 may be borne in a new country may perhaps 
 be best illustrated by an example. 
 
 River Plate Small Farm. 
 
 Farm of 1,000 acres, with necessary buildings and £ 
 fencing, costs say 1,500?., which the occupant 
 borrows at 12 per cent. . . . . .180 
 
 Export duties on produce, hides, tallow, ifec. . . 30 
 Land Tax ........ 8 
 
 
 £218 
 
 English Farm. 
 
 
 Farm of 500 acres, rent 
 
 . 440 
 
 Tithe 
 
 . 60 
 
 Poor Rate ...... 
 
 25 
 
 District Rate 
 
 . 10 
 
 Land Tax and Property Tax 
 
 5 
 
 £540 
 
 In the above examples it will be noticed 
 that the rent for the English farm is by no 
 
 Q
 
 226 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 means high, being only eighteen shilUngs an 
 acre. On the other hand, the River Plate 
 farm may be taken to be good land and is 
 double the size. Yet the River Plate farmer, 
 borrowing at twelve per cent., is not called 
 upon to pay nearly as much as even half what 
 the English farmer has to pay before earn- 
 ing any profit for himself. It is better for 
 the River Plate farmer to purchase his land, 
 whatever rate of interest he may have to pay, 
 for he can then fearlessly improve his pro- 
 perty, every dollar he lays out being abso- 
 lutely secured to him. 
 
 Although the direct taxes upon the land 
 are light as compared with those borne by 
 land in England, in the form of tithes, poor, 
 highway, police, education, and other rates, 
 very considerable taxes are levied indirectly, 
 in the form of taxes upon the stock that the 
 land carries. The municipalities levy on every 
 head of cattle that is killed for consumption 
 a tax of one dollar (four shillings), and on 
 every sheep twenty cents (tenpence). These 
 taxes are decidedly heavy, if we bear in mind
 
 WHERE THE SHOE WILL PINCH 227 
 
 what u large proportion they Ijear to the value 
 of the animals in the River Plate. A cow or 
 sheep is worth, in England, as many pounds 
 as in the River Plate it would be worth 
 dollars ; so that, for purposes of comparison, a 
 duty of a dollar in the River Plate is equiva- 
 lent to a duty of one pound in England. There 
 is, moreover, a tax of G per cent, upon all 
 wool, sheepskins, hides, tallow, bones, horns, 
 and meat exported. These taxes add some- 
 thing considerable to the cost of production, 
 though, no doubt, they do not equal in amount 
 that which the English farmer is called upon 
 in the aggregate to pay. 
 
 One thing that struck me with some 
 surprise in connection with the high rate of 
 interest paid in South America, is the low rate 
 of interest earned for their shareholders, by 
 the English banks banking in South America. 
 A\'ith such a field for their operations, I can 
 hardly understand how it is they do not 
 pay higher dividends. The four English 
 banks, in Brazil and the River Plate, yield 
 their shareholders on the average about 10 
 
 q2
 
 228 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 per cent. Yet in England many English 
 banks pay 20 per cent., and after full allow- 
 ance for everything in the way of more ex- 
 pensive staffs, it still appears to me that 
 the English banks in South America, ought to 
 yield at least as much as the most successful 
 English banks, even if they do not succeed in 
 yielding more. With such favourable oppor- 
 tunities as they have, one would imagine that 
 they would make heavy profits ; perhaps their 
 profits are eaten up by losses. 
 
 The province of Buenos Ayres has esta- 
 blished a land mortgage bank, which is getting 
 known in this country through its mortgage 
 bonds known as Cedulas (Cedillas). The 
 bank advances money upon the security of 
 land to one half its assessed value, and the 
 Cedulas are the bonds issued to the borrowers 
 at par in lieu of cash. 
 
 This method of borrowing is not very 
 satisfactory, for two reasons. An estanciero 
 borrows, say, )$'20,000 on his landed property, 
 and is handed Cedulas for )^20,000 by the 
 bank, bearing 8 per cent, interest. Cedulas
 
 WHERE THE SHOE WILL I'INCII 229 
 
 are selling at a discount, and for his S'2(),()00 
 be may only realise ,^18,000. When the 
 time of repayment comes, he has the option 
 of making repayment in cash at par, or of 
 purchasing in the market Cedulas of the 
 same issue, of an equivalent amount to those 
 issued to him. But in the meantime the 
 value of Cedulas may have risen, so that 
 when the time for repayment comes, the 
 borrower can never be certain that he may 
 not be called upon to pay considerably more 
 than he has received. There is, moreover 
 (in addition to the interest on the Cedulas), a 
 commission of 1 per cent., payable to the 
 bank, on the whole loan, as long as any part 
 of it is outstanding. This is a severe tax. 
 For example, A borrows j^20,000 at 8 per 
 cent. ; the interest he has to pay is $1,600 a 
 year, plus )S'200 a year for commission, or 9 per 
 cent. He pays off gradually )^15,000 of the 
 advance, and remains liable for )^400 a year 
 mterest on the unpaid ^5,000, plus S200 a 
 year commission on the whole loan. He is 
 then paying at the rate of 12 per cent, for
 
 230 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 the unpaid portion of his advance. To raise 
 money to make these advances to mortgagors, 
 the bank has created a series of bonds to the 
 amount of some thirteen milhons sterling, 
 bearing interest at rates varying from 6 to 8 
 per cent. The National Bank of the Republic 
 has issued bonds of a similar kind. The 
 Cedulas of the Provincial Bank at Buenos 
 Ayres, are guaranteed by the Provincial Go- 
 vernment, and the Cedulas of the National 
 Bank by the Federal Government. One cannot 
 help feeling that mortgages may be repaid and 
 that the equivalent Cedulas may not be called 
 in and cancelled, and that more Cedulas may 
 thus remain in the hands of investors than the 
 mortgages warrant. Some grave scandals of 
 this kind came to light not long ago. Such 
 securities may be suitable for those who dwell 
 in the country, but hardly seem to be the best 
 class of investment for foreign investors, as the 
 banks do not in any way ear-mark the securities 
 on which the purchasers of Cedulas rely for 
 the eventual realisation of their bonds. 
 
 The countries of the River Plate have
 
 WIIEKE THE SHOE WILL PINCH 231 
 
 prospered greatly, and with good govern- 
 ment will doubtless continue to prosper, for 
 many years to come ; yet there are troubles 
 likely to arise in the future, and it is not 
 difficult to see where the shoe vnll pinch. 
 Unless the statesmen of these countries are 
 wise in time, troubles will ensue from the 
 landowners being permitted to hold land in 
 unlimited quantity. The rural population is 
 scanty for the size of the country, and owing 
 to the large holdings, does not increase in pro- 
 portion to the power of the country to mam- 
 tain an increased population. 
 
 The land in many parts is parcelled out mto 
 huge estates, varying in size from ten to thirty 
 square miles in extent, occupied by innumer- 
 able herds and flocks, but tenanted as far as 
 humanity goes, only by a few herdsmen and 
 shepherds, to look after the stock. These great 
 estancias are peopled by perhaps five-and- 
 twenty persons all told, wdiile much of the land 
 would easily carry from twelve to fifteen fami- 
 lies to the square mile. Several colonies have 
 been started with forty acres to a family, and
 
 232 zErHYKUS 
 
 upon this amount of land the settlers are 
 doing well. There are thousands of leagues of 
 country now carrying one or two, or at most 
 three persons to the square mile, which would 
 easily maintain in comfort seventy to eighty 
 persons to the square mile. Thousands of 
 miles are crying out for people to go and dig 
 them, but they do not and cannot go, until 
 the State rouses itself to the effort of facilitat- 
 ing the acquirement of small holdings by the 
 peasant class. Many of the capitalist land- 
 owners are absentees — oif-abiders, as Barnes, 
 the Dorset poor-man's poet, used to term them 
 in his vigorous Saxon — and many more are 
 preparing to follow their evil example. The 
 great landowners are so abundantly well to do, 
 that they can afford to be idle, and as means 
 of amusement are more abundant m older 
 countries, they naturally betake themselves 
 thither. The poor labourers remain while the 
 rich depart to drain away the wealth of the 
 country : nothing can be more disastrous. 
 Happily as yet one can only discern the 
 beginnings of this evil state of things. But
 
 WHERE THE SHOE WILL PINCH 283 
 
 the rulers of these Lands will have to mark 
 these things well, and find a remedy. They 
 may do this by a stern ajjplication of the law 
 of expropriation, by which large holders may 
 be bought out by the State at the market rate, 
 and their lands colonised by small owners. 
 
 In the United States the homestead law, 
 which strictly limits the amount which new 
 comers may take up, has prevented great 
 capitalists from appropriating enormous areas 
 of land which they are able merely to hold, 
 and quite unable to develop. In the River 
 Plate countries, provided certain conditions 
 of a comparatively easy kind are complied 
 with, relating to fencing in the land, there 
 is practically no limit to the gorge of the 
 capitalist landowner. When once a big land- 
 owner is in possession, the powers that be, 
 shrink from applying the laws of expropria- 
 tion. Mammoth landowners are allowed to 
 take up vast tracts of land on the supposition, 
 that when the land is required for a more 
 numerous body of smaller owners, the State 
 will expropriate the larger owners in favour
 
 234 ZEPHYRUS 
 
 of smaller ones. But the large owners are 
 powerful, and the statesmen of these countries 
 flinch from making a move against them. 
 The situation is no doubt a difficult one, yet 
 one cannot help feeling that, having made the 
 error of allowing landowners to straightway 
 possess themselves of gigantic estates, the 
 State will sooner or later have to face cour- 
 ageously the difficulty of applying a remedy 
 to this state of things. 
 
 The true strength and stability of a country 
 lies in an industrious well-to-do resident 
 population. But to assist the growth of small 
 landowners good means of communication are 
 essential. Small proprietors cannot horse and 
 coach themselves over scores of miles of muddy 
 rut-ploughed tracks in a land where no regu- 
 lar conveyances run. For the purposes of 
 improving communication. Governments must 
 borrow of the foreign capitalist ; and pro- 
 vided these loans are steadily repaid by means 
 of smking funds, so that the country does not 
 continue permanently indebted to the foreign 
 lender, such loans will benefit the borrowing
 
 WHERE THE SHOE WILL I'lNCII 
 
 235 
 
 commnnity. There is no virtue in foreign 
 capital unless it is in the first place well 
 applied, and in the second place repaid within 
 reasonable limits of time. Loans to new 
 countries on such terms bless both those that 
 lend and those that borrow. 
 
 It seems strange that such young countries 
 should so soon be threatened with a land ques- 
 tion, but the indifference of Governments to a 
 reasonable limitation of the size of properties, 
 and the do2:-in-the- 
 manger greed of big 
 capitalists who grasp 
 at large areas of land, 
 in order that they may 
 demand exorbitant 
 prices for their unim- 
 proved holdings, is 
 not a practice pecu- 
 liar to the River Plate. 
 
 But I have said 
 enough of theseTthings, and the puffing, 
 bustling little steam launch is waiting, to 
 hurry us from the Boca over three leagues 
 
 BIRD ROCK LIGHT, CAPE 
 DE VERD.
 
 236 
 
 ZEPHYKUS 
 
 of water to the homeward-bound ' Trent.' 
 Once again we travelled along the 2,000 miles 
 of coast to Pernambuco, calling at many ports. 
 After leaving Pernambuco we broke our mid- 
 Atlantic journey to coal at the Cape de Yerd 
 (green) Islands, a beautiful necklet of isles. 
 
 LOOK-OUT STATION, ST. VINCENT. 
 
 Their arid shores and spiky crests could 
 hardly look more enchanting than on the 
 evening we anchored off St. Vincent, blue- 
 black against a glowing crimson sky. In 
 the morning we were awakened by the screech 
 of the donkey engine, to find our cabin in-
 
 WHERE THE SHOE WILL riXCll 237 
 
 sufFerably hot, owing to the portholes being 
 tightly barred against the insidious inroad of 
 clouds of coal dust. But this passing incon- 
 venience was soon over, the time bemi'' wiled 
 away in chaffering over the ship's side, for 
 trifles which the Islanders had doubtless im- 
 ported from Birmingham. 
 
 Then the whistle sounded, the anchor 
 weighed, and once again we were 
 
 Upon the thousand waves of sea 
 That ripple round the lonely ship.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 AGA 
 
 ASATES, 140 
 
 Airinp^ clothes, 92 
 Alfalfa, 196 
 Arapey River, 125 
 Argentine Republic, govern- 
 ment of, 183 
 
 area of, 189 
 
 right to levy troops, 191 
 
 Armadillos, 187 
 Arredondo, General, 124 
 Artigas, General, 164 
 
 Bahia, 16 
 
 — • and San Francisco Rail- 
 way, 80 
 
 Bauda Oriental, union with 
 Argentine Republic, 161 
 
 Banks, 188, 227 
 
 Bank, National, 230 
 
 — ProA-incial, 230 
 Barata, 37 
 Beetle, 40 
 Belgrano, 203 
 Bichos, 37 
 Bombelia, 148 
 
 ' Bond,' the, 80 
 Brazilians, 45, 70 
 Buenos Ayi-es, 180, 190 
 • — — custom-house of, 114 
 landing at, 180 
 
 — — tramways of, 181 
 
 CRI 
 
 Buenos Ayres, sewers of, 182 
 
 museum, 187 
 
 Northern Railway, 204 
 
 Butter, 177 
 
 r.vMP, the, 196 
 
 Canary Isles, 7 
 
 Cape de Verd, 236 
 
 Carnival, 88 > O 
 
 Cascatina, 46 
 
 Caterpillar, 43 
 
 Catre, 157 
 
 Cattle, value of, 146, 172 
 
 Cedulas, 228 
 
 Ceibo, 121 
 
 Chaca, 144 
 
 Children in Brazil, 48 
 
 Chinese labour, 74 
 
 Chiripa, 215 
 
 Cicada, 31 
 
 Coffin-shop, 143 
 
 Coloured labour, 61 
 
 Commercial travellers, 54 
 
 Concessions for railways, 189 
 
 Concordia, 164, 210 
 
 Conscription, 218 
 
 Cooks, pay of, 114 
 
 Corco Vada, 25 
 
 Cordova, 206 
 
 Corrientes, 137 
 
 Crime, 221
 
 240 
 
 7EPHYRUS 
 
 CRU 
 
 Cruelty to slaves, 73 
 Cuareim River, 123, 152, 157 
 Currency, 174 
 
 Custom-house irregularities, 
 150 
 
 Dishonesty, 34 
 
 Doldrums, the, 8 
 
 Dom Pedro II., 45 
 
 Dom Pedro 11*^° Eailway, 76 
 
 Downs of Banda Oriental, 153 
 
 Dress of Brazilians, 53 
 
 — for the tropics, 2 
 
 Dust-coats, 66 
 
 Duties, custom-house, 169 
 
 East Ara'entine Railway, 121 
 
 159, 210 
 English in River Plate, 187 
 Ensenada, 193, 195 
 Entre Rios, 211 
 Eucalyptus, 201 
 Extract of meat, 144 
 
 LAS 
 
 Government influence, 139 
 Great Southern of Buenos 
 
 Byres Railway, 184 
 Guahiu, 128, 134 
 Guarantee of integrity of 
 
 Banda Oriental, 161 
 Guaranteed railways, 76 
 
 Haebotjrs of Brazil, 158 
 Herons, white, 156 
 Horses, 175 
 — title to, 179 
 Hotel Concordia, 119 
 Humming-birds, 31 
 
 Import duties, 150 
 
 Indians, 213 
 
 Interest, rate of, 170, 222 
 
 Investments, 223 
 
 Isla de OabeUos, 122, 153 
 
 Flores, 92 
 
 Italian immigrants, 141, 217, 
 219 
 
 I 
 
 Farming, cost of, 225 
 Fernandez Noronha, 9 
 Fielding's grave, 4 
 Flora of Brazil, 25 
 
 Plate, 148 
 
 Fraudulent trade-marks, 56 
 Free passes, 185 
 Freedom to slaves, 71 
 Frozen meat, 145 
 Fruits, 14 
 Funeral car, 16 
 
 Game, 196 
 
 Games of children, 50 
 Gaucho, 153, 213 
 Gold currency, 174 
 Governesses, 175 
 
 Janguarda, 12 
 
 Jerked beef, 144 
 
 Jesuit tea, 147 
 
 Jewellery, 50 
 
 Jurisdictions, conflict of, 183 
 
 Jujuy, 206 
 
 La Plata, 190 
 
 museum of, 193 
 
 population of, 192 
 
 Labour, 222 
 
 Lamport and Holt's steamers, 
 
 84 
 Land, value of, 173, 225 
 Landowners, large, 232 
 Lassoing the dead, 135 
 — bullock, 177
 
 INDEX 
 
 241 
 
 LAZ 
 
 SAL 
 
 Lazaretto, 92 
 Leapfrog', 50 
 Leopoldina Railway, 76 
 Level crossings, 200 
 Lisbon, 2 
 
 Orchids, 42 
 Ostriches, 155, 201 
 Oven bird, 1U3 
 Owls, 155, 107 
 Ox cart, 156 
 
 Maccoll's ox tongues, 168 
 Maceio, 15 
 Magistrates, 221 
 Mahogany tree, 29 
 Manners of Brazilians, 51 
 Mantis, praying, 410 
 Marmosets, 20 
 Martin Garcier, 116 
 Mate, 147 
 Meat, cost of, 146 
 Mesa de Artigas, 1G4 
 Midland of Uruguay Railway, 
 
 106 
 Milkman, 177 
 Missiones, 211 
 Monte Video, 108 
 
 harbour of, 112 
 
 custom house of, 113 
 
 Mortgage Bank, 228 
 
 Mosquitos, 207 
 
 Museum of Buenos Ayres, 187 
 
 Nandubay, 197 
 National guards, 133 
 Nautilus, 8 
 Navigation, 118 
 Negroes of Bahia, 17 
 New Orleans, 91 
 New Zealand, 173, 220 
 Newspaper reports, 109 
 North Western of Uruguay 
 Railway, 127, 152, 159 
 
 Padre of Santa Rosa, 158 
 Palermo, 203 
 Palmerston, Lord, 161 
 Paper currency, 174 
 Parana, 205 
 
 — River, 116 
 Paysandu, 130, 164 
 Peak of Tenerifte, 7 
 Pernambuco, 10 
 Petropolis, 45 
 
 Plains of Banda Oriental, 154 
 Population, distribution of, in 
 
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 falls of, 159 
 
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 Paul Foster's Daughter. 
 
 BY WILLIAM CYPLES. 
 Hearts of Gold. 
 
 BY ALPHONSE DAUDET. 
 The Evangelist; or, Port Salvation 
 
 BY JAMES DE MILLS. 
 A Castle in Spain. 
 
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 Our Lady of Tears. 
 Circe's Lovers. 
 
 BY M. BETHAM-EDWARDS 
 Felicia. | Kitty. 
 
 BY MRS. ANNIE EDWARDES. 
 Archie Lovell. 
 
 BY PERCY FITZGERALD. 
 Fatal Zero. 
 
 BY R. E. FRANCILLON. 
 Queen Cophetua. 
 One by One. 
 A Real Queen. 
 
 Prefaced by Sir BARTLE FRERE. 
 Pandurang Harl. 
 
 BY EDWARD GARRETT. 
 The Capel Girls.
 
 28 
 
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 Piccadilly Novels, continued — 
 BY CHARLES GIBBON. 
 Robin Gray. 1 For Lack of Gold. 
 
 What will the World Say? 
 In Honour Bound. 
 Queen of the Meadow. 
 The Flower of the Forest. 
 A Heart's Problem. 
 The Braes of V arrow. 
 The Golden Shaft. | Of High Degree. 
 Fancy Free. | Loving a Dream. 
 
 A Hard Knot. 
 
 BY THOMAS HARDY. 
 Under the Greenwood Tree. 
 
 BY JULIAN HAWTHORNE. 
 Garth. | Elllce Quentin. 
 
 Sebastian Stroma. 
 Prince Saroni's Wife. 
 Dust. I Fortune's Fool. 
 
 Beatrix Randolph. 
 Miss Cadogna. 
 Love — or a Name. 
 
 BY SIR A. HELPS. 
 Ivan de Biron. 
 
 BY MRS. CASHEL HOEY. 
 The Lover's Creed. 
 
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 Thornicroft's IVIodel. 
 The Leaden Casket. 
 Self-Condemned. 
 That other Person. 
 
 BY JEAN INGELOW. 
 Fated to be Free. 
 
 BY HARRIETT JAY. 
 The Queen of Connaught 
 
 BY R. ASHE KING. 
 A Drawn Game. 
 "The Wearing of the Green." 
 
 BY HENRY KINGSLEY. 
 Number Seventeen. 
 
 BY E. LYNN LINTON. 
 Patricia Kemball. 
 Atonement of Leam Dundas. 
 The World Well Lost. 
 Under which Lord ? 
 With a Silken Thread. 
 The Rebel of the Family 
 "My Love !" I lori. 
 
 BY HENRY W. LUCY. 
 Gideon Fleyce. 
 
 BY JUSTIN McCarthy. 
 
 The Waterdale Neighbours. 
 
 My Enemy's Daughter. 
 
 A Fair Saxon. 
 
 Dear Lady Disdain. 
 
 Miss Misanthrope. | DonnaQu!xote 
 
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 Camlola. 
 
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 Hard Cash. 
 Peg Woffington. 
 Christie Johnstone. 
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 Love Me Little, Love Me Long. 
 The Cloister and the Hearth. 
 The Course of True Love. 
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 Put Yourself in His Place. 
 A Terrible Temptation. 
 The 'Wandering Heir. I A Simpleton. 
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 Women are Strange. 
 The Hands of Justice. 
 
 BY JOHN SAUNDERS. 
 Bound to the Wheel. 
 Guy Waterman. 
 Two Dreamers. 
 The Lion In the Path-
 
 CIIATTO 6- \V INDUS, PICCADILLY. 
 
 29 
 
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 Joan Merry weather 
 Margaret and Elizabeth. 
 Gideon's Rock. I Heart Salvage. 
 The High Mills. | Sebastian. 
 
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 Mr. Scarborough's Family. 
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 Anne Furne5s 
 Mabel's Progress. 
 
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 Stories from Foreign Novelists. 
 
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 What She Came Through. 
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 Noblesse Oblige. 
 Citoyenne Jacqueline. 
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 30 
 
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 CHATTO &' W INDUS. PICCADILLY. 
 
 31 
 
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 The World Well Lost. 
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 With a Silken Thread. 
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 Qldeon Fleyce. 
 
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 33 BOOKS PUBLISHED BY CHATTO &- W INDUS. 
 
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