THE LIBRARY G OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ROBERT BARNWELL ROOSEVELT. AND THE GAME WATER-BIRDS OF THE ATLANTIC COAST AND THE LAKES OF THE UNITED STATES, WITH A FULL ACCOUNT OF THE SPORTING ALONG OUR SEA- SHORES AND INLAND WATERS, AND REMARKS ON BREECH-LOADERS AND HAMMERLESS GUNS. BY ROBERT BARNWELL ROOSEVELT, AUTHOR OP " THE OAMB-FISH OF NOKTH AMERICA," " SUPERIOR FISHING,' " FIVE ACRES TOO MUCH, 1 ' " ISMS," " POLYANTHUS," ETC., ETC. IIiLUSTRATED. NEW YORK: ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 751 BROADWAY. 1884. Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by the ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. PREFACE. In preparing this work, after I had written the account of Florida, which, as a sporting country, had never been fully described, and was to occupy the principal part of my attention, and when I came to the second division, that relating to the game- birds of our waters and coasts generally, I found so much in a book on a kindred subject, which I had written years ago, that I concluded I could do no better than quote from it freely. The directions therein given are as correct now as then, the in- formation as well founded, and I hope the reader will find the stories of sporting excursions as interesting. My main purpose is to call the attention of my brother sportsmen to that paradise of the devotee of the rod and gun, the Southern Peninsula of our Atlantic States. Game is disappearing from our home country; woodcock and ruffed grouse have almost been exterminated; ducks are less plentiful; bay snipe now make many of their flights directly at sea without passing over the land; and if we are to obtain satisfactory shooting, we must go some distance for it. Many persons who are fond of out- door life cannot stand exposure to cold weather, and still more, to keep up their interest, must have the chance of making a larger bag than they can count on at the North. Yachtsmen are in the habit of B 4960 6 PREFACE. laying up their craft during the best season of the year for the enjoyment of sailing. They have looked upon the South either as an uninteresting or a dangerous country, a land merely of alligators or of hurricanes. They will be as surprised as pleased to learn that there is no better sailing ground, and that the Southern waters in winter are as safe as Northern waters in summer ; so much so that small vessels and open boats have braved their terrors, while their sporting advantages are not to be sur- passed, if they are to be equalled, by any in the world. While not absolutely the pioneer in this explora- tion, I happen to be nearly so, for no completed work or continued record has been published which covers the ground described, or conveys the infor- mation contained in these pages. No more de- lightful excursion can be conceived than that to Florida during the winter, and no man can so thoroughly enjoy it as the yachtsman. Thousands of tourists have been going there for years, and their number is augmenting every season. But such persons merely rummage a country; they do not possess it; they rush along sight-seeing and curiosity-purchasing. Let the sportsman or the invalid go to remain during the inclement winter weather, and they will never regret the excursion. THE AUTHOR. PART I. FLORIDA. CONTENTS. PART I. FLORIDA. PAGE CHAPTER I. Florida. The Inland Passage 9 CHAPTER II. In Florida.... 59 CHAPTEP, III. Currituck Marshes. ... 116 PART II. THE GAME WATER-BIRDS. CHAPTER I. Game of Ancient and Modern Days. Its Protection and Importance. The proper Shooting Seasons. The Impolicy of Using Batteries and Pivot-Guns 139 CHAPTER II. Guns and Gunnery. Breech-loaders compared with Muzzle-loaders. All the Late Improvements in Breech-loaders. Hammerless Guns 159 CHAPTER III. Bay-snipe Shooting. The Birds, their Habits, Pecu- liarities, and places of .Resort. Stools and Whistles. Dress and Implements appropriate to their pursuit. Their Names and Mode of Capture 185 CHAPTER IV. The New Jersey Coast. Jersey Girls and their pleasant ways. The peculiarities of Bay-snipe further eluci- dated. Mosquitoes rampant. Good Shooting and " Fancy " Sport. Shipwrecks and Ghosts 219 CHAPTER V. Bay-Bird*. - Particular Descriptions and Scientific Characteristics. A Complete Account of each Variety 261 CHAPTER VI. Montauk Point. American Golden Plover or Frost- Bird. A True Story of Three Thousand in a Flock. Lester's Tavern. Good Eating, Fine Fishing, and Splendid Shooting. The Nepeague Beach 301 CHAPTER VII. Eail and Rail-Shooting. Seasons, Localities, and Incidents of Sport. Use of Breech-loader or Muzzle-loader. Equipment 313 CHAPTER VIII. Wild-Fowl Shooting. General Directions, from Boats, Blinds, or Batteries. Retrievers from Baltimore and Newfoundland. Western Sport. Equipment 328 CHAPTER IX. Duck-Shooting on the Inland Lakes. The Club House. -Practical Views of Practical Men. Moral Tales. A Day's Fishing. The Closing Scenes 344 CHAPTER X. Suggestions to Sportsmen. A Definition of the Term. Crack Shots. The Art of Shooting. The Art of not Shooting. 398 CHAPTER XL Directions for Building a Battery 415 FLORIDA. CHAPTER I. THE INLAND PASSAGE. Florida so named by its discoverers from the abundance, beauty and fragrance of its flowers. The Land of Flowers what a beautiful sentiment. Alas, it was never called anything of the sort. Land happening to be first seen by the brave and sturdy warrior but not imaginative linguist, Juan Ponce de Leon, on Palm Sunday, his discovery was called, with due and Catholic reverence, after the day and not after any abundance of flowers, which were probably not abundant on the sand spit where he planted his intrusive feet. But no matter about the origin of the term, the epithet is more than justified, and the Peninsular State is not only glori- ous in the endless beauty and variety of its flowers till in good old English it might be termed one huge nosegay but it is magnificent in the grandeur and originality of its foliage. The jessamine climbs above the deep swamps and lights up their darkness with its yellow stars ; the magnolia towers in the open upland a pyramid of vestal splendor ; the cab- bage palmetto waves its huge fan-shaped leavos, seven feet long, like great green hands, and the moss hangs and sways and covers the bare limbs with its ragged clothing. To the rough, practical Northern mind, Florida 10 ISE ttfLAKD PASSAGE. is a land of dreams, a strange country full of sur- prises, an intangible sort of a place, where at first nothing is believed to be real and where finally every- thing is considered to be possible. When the visitor first arrives he cannot be convinced that the cows feed under water ; before he leaves he is willing to concede that alligators may live on chestnuts. The animals and birds are as queer and unnatural as the herbage, or as a climate which furnishes strawber- ries, green' peas, shad, and roses at Christmas. There is the Limpkin, the pursuit of which reminds one of hunting the Snark. You are in continual terror of catching the Boojum. It is a bird about the size of a fish-hawk, but it roars like a lion and screeches like a wild-cat, although it occasionally whistles like a canary. It has a bill like that of a curlew, adapted to probing in the sand, and yet it sits on trees as though it were a woodpecker. It is conversational and talks to you in a friendly way during daytime, but at night it harrows up your soul and makes your blood run cold with the fearful noises it utters. If you hear any charming note or awful sound, any pretty song or terrifying scream, and ask a native Floridian, with pleased or trem- bling tongue, "What is that?" he will calmly an- swer, "That? that is a Limpkin." There are no dangerous animals in Florida, only a few of Eve's old enemies, and the sportsman is safer in the woods at night under the moss-covered trees and on his moss-constructed mattress than in his bed in the family mansion on Fifth avenue. If he hears any THE IKLAXD PASSAGE. 11 unearthly noises, any soul-curdling shrieks, he can turn to sleep again with the comfortable assurance "that it is only a Limpkin." To the sportsman it is needless to say that Florida, when properly investigated, is a Paradise. Birds and fish and game are only too plentiful, till it has become a land of shameful slaughter. The brute with a gun slays the less brutish animal for the mere pleasure of murder when he cannot get, much less use, what he kills, till on most of the pleasure steamers shooting has been prohibited ; while the idiot with the rod fills his boat with splendid fish that rot in the hot sun and have to be thrown back, putrefying, into the water from which his undisci- plined passion hauled them. Sportsman should not come to this land of promise and performance unless they can control their instincts, for fear that they should degenerate into mere killers. In truth, the excess of abundance takes away the keener zest of sport, which is largely due to the difficulties that surround success. But for the ordinary inhabitant of the rugged North, the quaintness of this border land of the equator has an immense charm, while to the invalid the pure, dry, warm air of both winter and summer brings balm and health. The feeble and sickly, especially the consumptive, should seek Florida, for to them it offers the fabled springs of perennial youth, which Ponce de Leon sought more coarsely in vain. To the seeker after amusement, to the man and woman of leisure, who wish to im- prove as well as enjoy themselves, it is a very wonder- 12 THE INLAND PASSAGE. land of delight. It has a store of novelties which are absolutely exhaustless, and tracts of interest- ing country which, while perfectly accessible, have never even been explored. To enjoy Florida, however, one must seek it aright. If the visitor follows the beaten track, he will see the beaten things well beaten by many vulgar footsteps. If he takes the steamers and lives at the hotels, he will make quick trips and have good accommodations. If he wants originality he must pursue original methods. There are many ways of reaching this floral El Dorado the ocean steamer will carry you to Savannah, whence the steamboat will transport you through byways and inside cuts to Jacksonville, or the railroad will drag and hurl you through dust and dirt by day and night at headlong pace from the St. Lawrence to the Gulf. But if you want to enjoy Florida, if you want to go where no man has gone, and see what no eye has seen, and handle what no hand has touched, then go there in a yacht in a small yacht, just as small and of as light draft of water as will accommodate comfortably the party, that must be composed of individuals sufficiently accustomed to one another to be sure they can live together for three months without quarrelling. Then, indeed, will you learn what Flor- ida is, will possess its charms in close embrace and have experiences and pleasures never to be forgotten and not otherwise to be obtained. How is this to be done, you may ask, and the purpose of this chapter is to tell you exactly how. THE INLAND PASSAGE. 13 A wealthy magnate may go in a big yacht to Florida, give good dinners aboard and live in grandeur and luxury, and he will see about as much not quite as if he had left his yacht at home ; or the hasty- plate-of-soup man may take a little steam launch and stave her in on the first snag or oyster rock he runs her against. But if the traveller and his friends hire or buy a light-draught sailing vessel, they will require more time, but they can go almost everywhere and see absolutely everything. It was just such, a vessel that I had built for use in the shoal Great South Bay of Long Island a sharpie, to give its nautical appellation of sixty feet length and fifteen beam, with two state-rooms, a cabin having four comfortable berths and over six feet head-room, and a cuddy for the men and for cooking, although we had an auxiliary cook stove in the cabin. This vessel was intended to carry six passengers and two men ; but boats of seventeen feet length and a cata- maran have safely made the passage to the St. John's River and are there now, so that a much smaller craft would do. The advantage of the sharpie style of construction was that the yacht only drew two feet of water, and as I proposed to run entirely by. chart, and not to use the services of a pilot, this was an inestimable advantage. We could have braved the battle and the breeze of the Atlantic and gone outside all the way, but those who know most of the ocean care least to have to do with it unless equipped on the most thorough basis to encounter its buffets. As an old sea captain said to me : "When I go to 14 THE INLAKD PASSAGE. sea I want to go in a steamer, and the biggest and strongest steamer at that." Moreover, the inside route is much the more interesting ; there is nothing very novel about the sea but the danger of it, whereas the bays, creeks, canals and rivers furnish a fresh and continually changing panorama. There is a frequent encounter with strange people, with vessels of queer rigs and builds, an alternation of scenery, the arrival at and departure from cities, the chance to occasionally kill a bird or catch a mess of fish something new happening every day. At sea there is the ocean a great deal of ocean and nothing else. There exists a complete inside route from New York to the St. John's Eiver, with the exception of about a hundred miles south of Beaufort, North Carolina, and on this stretch there are many acces- sible inlets only a few miles apart, so that no vessel need be caught out overnight or can fail to make a safe harbor in case of necessity. The charts are nearly complete and enable a person of ordinary in- telligence, in a vessel drawing not over four feet of water, to be entirely independent of pilots. The lighter the draught, however, the better, and I should not advise the use of any boat which requires more than three feet to float in, two feet being greatly preferable. Do not start for the South before the first day of November unless you wish to encounter a multi- plicity, variety and intensity of fever that would be the delight of the medical profession. Until frost THE INLAND PASSAGE. 15 comes, there is waiting for you a choice between fever and ague, intermittent, remittent, typhoid, putrid, break-bone, yellow, and d'engue fevers, each of which, when you have it, seems a little worse than all the others until you have one of them also, an event which is very likely to happen, when you dis- cover that your first conclusions were erroneous. Then before you start get good and ready. Look over your fishing tackle ; be sure you have car- tridges enough, and load them all with powder, but not shot, so as to avoid unpleasant explosions. Use your five hundred pounds of shot for ballast. Lay in a tub of Northern butter and some white potatoes, but do not imagine you are going to a land of barbarism. You can get better hams, bet- ter hard-tack, and as good and cheap canned goods in Norfolk as you can in New York. Fresh eggs are to be had everywhere, turkeys and chickens are fair, and are sold in market cleaned, and if Southern beef is tough it has a peculiar game flavor which is very agreeable. Take in a good supply of coal; use it for ballast if there is no other place to ctow it, for you may get frozen in during a cold spell, and will surely want plenty of extraneous warmth be- fore you reach the "Sunny South." Then when you are ready, sail up Raritan Bay, get a tow through the Raritan and Delaware Bay Canal, and even across to Delaware City if you please, and so across to the Chesapeake Bay, where your journey may be said really to commence, for thenceforth you will have to rely on your sails and your brains, 16 THE INLAND PASSAGE. your motive power and your charts. There are very thorough and complete charts of the Chesa- peake, six in number, carrying you the entire way to Norfolk and insuring you a good and safe harbor whenever you need it. Do not forget that this is a big sheet of water, and that you are on a pleasure trip, and will be much more comfortable if at anchor during the night. Besides, there is time enough; you have all winter before you, as you can- not get back until spring if you wanted to, now that Jack Frost is about shutting the gates. From Norfolk you can take a tow through the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal or not, as you please; much better not if you happen to have a good northerly wind, as there is only one lock, and you can make the distance more pleasantly and safely under sail. If your vessel draws less than three feet, you leave the canal when you reach North Landing Eiver, of which there is a chart, and you go down through Currituck Sound by Van Slyck's Landing, and thence through the Narrows. Beyond that for some distance, as the chart says, you "can only carry three feet of water, and that with difficulty." If your vessel is of greater draught, you must take the extension of the canal which carries you to North River, from which point there is plenty of water all the way. You can get a condensed chart from the Albemarle and Chesapeake Canal Com- pany, which will give you a general idea of the route from Norfolk to Smithville, and which will be found very useful. But the Government charts THE IKLAHD PASSAGE. 17 of Pamlico Sound, which were completed in the fall of 1883, should by all means be taken also, as they are simply invaluable in case of storm and the necessity of seeking harbor unexpectedly. Gov- ernment chart No. 40 or 140 (both numbers are used) will give you Currituck Sound from just above Van Slyck's, and also North River from the mouth of the canal, all that is necessary of Albe- marle Sound, Croatan and Roanoke Sounds, either of which you may take, and the magnetic courses and distances to steer by as far south as Roauoke Marshes Light. The post office at Van Slyck's Landing is called Poplar Branch Post Office, Curri- tuck County, N. C., and you can get your letters and coarse supplies there, but no bread. The next good harbor is Kitty Hawk, where there is also a store and post office. If you go through Roanoke Sound, remember that below Shallowbag Bay the channel runs close along shore, closer than it seems on the chart. You will have to feel your way care- fully across below Broad Creek. There is plenty of water if you find it, but it is not easy to find. Prom the southerly end of Roanoke Island to Long Shoal Light the course is south by west; from Roanoke Marshes Light it is south, one half west. You can go a mile inside of this light, but not fur- ther, as the shoal beyond has not a foot of water on it. Just north of this light is Stumpy Point Bay, where you can make a good harbor, carrying clear inside four feet of water. Prom Long Shoal Light the course is south-west to a buoy on Bluff 18 THE INLA-KTD PASSAGE. Shoal; but as there is seven feet of water on the shoal, accuracy is not necessary, and the same course continued will take you near Royal Shoal, which is easily made out, as there are two lights on it. From this the course is south hy west to Har- bor Island light, at the entrance of Core Sound. This light is abandoned and is falling down, but during the day the building is visible a long dis- tance. If you can get a free wind, you can make the run from Long Shoal to Harbor Island in a day, provided you get under way early, which every sen- sible yachtsman is careful to do. If not, you must hug the main shore and look out, as there are many shoals and no tide to help you off if you get aground. The waters are salt and only moved by the wind; and as Pamlico Sound is a miniature ocean and gets up a big sea, it is well to be careful. If you are caught near Eoyal Shoal, unless you are acquainted with the channels, steer for the beach, where you can get holding ground if not much of a harbor. The charts of Pamlico Sound are Nbs. 42, 43, and 44. There is a good chart of Core Sound, which is shallow* but well staked out, the stakes having hands on them to show on which side is the best water. You can carry two feet of water close along the shore from the buoy off the middle marshes, just west of Barker's Island into Beaufort, but the main channel is more to the southward and runs to the point of Shackleford Banks. Then you go up Bulk- head Channel, keep along the north shore of Town THE INLAND PASSAGE. 19 Marsh a hundred rods, and then northeast and keep the lead going to Beaufort, N. C. From here you can either sail through Bogue Sound, of which there is no chart, or go directly to sea. As the land trends westward, it makes a lee even from a north- easter and is as safe as any outside sailing can be. There is a chart of Beaufort, N. C., which takes you a few miles into Bogue Sound, but that is all. South of Bogue Inlet, New Topsail Inlet is one of the best, then Masonboro, and from either of these a good wind will carry you past Cape Fear, the only spot you have to dread and where you must manage not to get caught. There is a good chart of Cape Fear, but the rule of the local pilots is to follow the eighteen-foot shoal down till you open Fort Caswell by the main Light on Bald Head, and then steer straight for the Fort, which will give you six feet of water up to. the beach. But remember, there is shoal water outside of you, and you must look out for breakers. The next harbor is Little Eiver Inlet, and then comes Winyah Bay, of which there is a chart, and then Bull's Bay, of which also you can get a chart. From Bull's Bay it is inside work and a slftftl, but not a difficult passage, to Charleston Harbor. Of this there is no chart yet printed, and it ought to be run, if possible, in a tide which will help at both ends by running up from Bull's Bay and down into Charleston Harbor. You come out at the cove near Fort Moultrie where it is well to stop, as Charleston Harbor is a large place in rough weather for small 20 THE IHLAND PASSAGE. boats. Here you begin on Coast Chart No. 54 (or 154). Go up the Ashley Eiver till St. Michael's Church (which has the whitest spire) opens to the north of the rice mills, and steer into Wappoo Cut, which lies just south of some prominent buildings on a point on the left shore. It will carry you with- out trouble into the Stono River. Here the chart fails you, you ascend the Stono, keeping a westerly course past the first branch to the north which heads toward a railroad in full view. When a large mill on the north side is reached a lead branches to the south. This must be avoided, and a mill with a tower will soon be reached. This is on AVadmelaw River, where the chart resumes its proper vocation. Thence across the North Edisto, the Dawho River, thence into the South Edisto, around Jehossee, but not through Wall's Cut, which the natives assured me was not open. Just at the south point of Jehossee Island, Mosquito Creek enters the South Edisto ; take the westerly lead where they branch just inside the mouth, and then through Bull's Cut into the Ashepoo ; down the Ashepoo and across St. Helena Sound^nd either up the Coosaw and past Beaufort, S. C. 1'he name of the town being pronounced Bufort, which is about as short as any route, or across the Sound to Harbor River and through it and Story and Station Creeks into Port Royal Sound. This is a big place again and uncomfort- able at night in a storm with a heavy tide and sea. You now take Coast Chart No. 55 (or 155). There is a special chart of the route from St. Helena to THE INLAND PASSAGE. 21 Port Royal, but it is not necessary. You steer nearly west from the buoys off the mouth of Station Creek to Bobee's Island at the mouth of Skull Creek. There is an oyster rock in the middle of Skull Creek where it makes its first bend to the southeast, and this is the only danger before reaching Calibogue Sound. In crossing Tybee roads, keep well out to Red Buoy No. 2, whether you go directly south or turn north to visit Savannah. If the latter, go by the Light Beacon and to the westward of it, if the former, take Lazaretto Creek into Tybee River and Warsaw Sound. Keep well out by the buoys again and head for Romerly Marsh Creek. If you have gone to Savannah, continue your jour- ney by the way of Wilmington River to the same place, unless your boat is small enough to pole easily, in which case you can go through Skiddaway Nar- rows. Romerly Marsh and Adams Creeks will bring you into Vernon River, when you steer for Hell Gate, between Little Don Island and Raccoon Key. If you have come through Skiddaway and down the Buruside and Vernon Rivers, you can go inside of Little Don Island. Here you use chart No. JL6 (or 156). Cross the Ogeechee River, and follownpthe west bank to Florida Passage, through it and Bear River to St. Catharine's Sound, across it and up Newport River to Johnson's Creek ; thence down the South Newport to Sapelo Sound. There is good fishing in Barbour's River, just above where the words "Barbour's Island" are on the chart, Continue across Sapelo Sound and into 22 THE INLAND PASSAGE. Mud Eiver ; take the middle of this to New Tea- kettle Creek, which will bring you into Doboy Sound. Keep to the north of Doboy town, which is a prominent object on the flat meadows. Here chart No. 57 (or 157) begins, and you go from Duboy straight through Little Mud Eiver and the same course across Altamaha Sound ; then follow the channel northwesterly into Buttermilk Sound ; then either through Mackay's or Frederica Eivers, as the wind best serves, into St. Simon's Sound. Here the water is deeper and you can go directly across from the black buoy No. 7 to the black buoy at the mouth of Jekyls Creek. There are two mouths to this creek. Take the easterly one and run straight from the ranges on the point. Follow across Jekyls and St. Andrew's Sounds up Cumberland Eiver. At its head waters there are some islands ; the channel is from a stake on shore to the west of the eastermost island, then by ranges on the point, which carry you past a little island with ranges which give you the course south. Use the lead here. Thence down Cumberland Sound by Dungeness, for- merl^^he property of Gen. Nathaniel Green, and whicnis much visited by tourist parties, across the St. Mary's Eiver and up the Amelia to Fernandina. Here chart No. 58 (or 158) begins. From the Amelia Eiver you go to Kingley's Creek past two drawbridges. The railroad bridge is out of order and will not open square with the bulkhead. Be careful here, as several accidents have happened and the tide runs strong. Continue across Nassau Sound THE INLAND PASSAGE. 23 to Sawpit Creek, at the mouth of which there is a black buoy not laid down on the chart. Keep to the southward of this buoy and run on through Gun- nison's Out, which you will recognize by two pal- metto trees that look like gate-posts at a distance. Down Fort George River to the Sisters Creek and thence to the St. John's Eiver where you will find a dock a watermark not to be forgotton on your re- turn trip. There are three charts of the St. John's, which give it in full from its mouth to Lake Har- ney ; the points to remember are to cross from Han- nah Mills Creek to St. John's Bluff, and thence back again to Clapboard Creek, whence you follow up the north shore, keeping it as far as Dame Point close aboard. Beyond this you can have no trouble, as the St. John's has but one or two shoals where there is less than six feet of water, and it is well marked out with buoys and beacons. If this description sounds a little tedious to the reader, he will not think it so when he makes the trip. If you want a pilot for any part of the route, one can be had by applying to Captain Coste, of the Lighthouse Service at Charleston ; but there .are few persons who know what I have herein recorded, and none of those will tell. We have had a long trip for long as it has been on paper, it has been longer in reality. Two weeks from New York to Beaufort, N. C. ; ten days thence to Charleston, and ten more to Jacksonville may be required, unless the traveller is one of those lucky fellows who always have a free wind through life. So he may want to rest, have 24 THE INLAND PASSAGE. his clothes washed, dress up in "a, boiled shirt" for a change, and revive the fact that he is one of the aristocracy, not an ordinary seaman. He will soon tire of civilization, however, and long for the pleas- ures of the chase. Then let him ascend any of the tributaries of the St. John's from San Pablo at its mouth to Juniper Creek, which empties into the southerly end of Lake George. It was on the latter stream that I nearly killed a Limpkin. The man does not live who has actually caught or shot a Limpkin. There are no Limpkins for sale in the curiosity shops, where almost every other pro- duction of Florida is to be had. It is admitted that the Limpkin, like the recognized ghost, is proof against powder and ball. But the writer never miss- es that is, on paper and when he is recording his shots. All writers do the same. So when the Limp- kin sat on a limb and whistled and chuckled and bobbed and bowed and finally flew away just before we were near enough, and I fired as he disappeared with horrible screams through the forest, one leg dropped ! I had not killed him, but even a Limpkin was not quite proof against my aim. Mr. Seth Green, who was with me at the time and can vouch for the truth of this statement, remarked in a mel- ancholy tone of voice that he wished he had had his rifle. As he had not succeeded in hitting anything with his rifle thus far since we started, although he had fired away half his cartridges, there is a chance that he might have succeeded this time by way of a change, and so I agreed with him heartily. THE INLAND PASSAGE. 25 Alligators will not appear till warm weather that is, till the middle of January by which time the tourists will think he has got into the dog days, but fish are abundant in all the fresh-water streams. In that very Juniper Creek we caught so many big- mouthed bass with fly and spoon that we not only gave up fishing, but had to salt down dozens. And, by tho way, these fish are much more of game fish than they are at the North ; the smallest fight well, take the fly freely and jump out of water as frequent- ly and fiercely as the small-mouthed variety in our waters. Before leaving the instructive branch of my sub- ject I wish to advise the yachtsman against giving too much weight to the appearance of the Southern sky. This will often cloud up toward evening in the most threatening way. Such a heavenly monitor at the North would warn us to make everything snug and get the best bower over, but in the South these appearances signify nothing. After a most fright- ful-looking evening the morningwill break clear and warm and quiet. There are few storms in Florida during the winter, a "norther" occasionally and possible a thunder storm, but no fierce northeasters and no hurricanes. As to the comparative advantages of working through the tortuous creeks with changing tides, or running outside for short stretches, a pref- erence might be given to the latter were it not that the shoals off the mouths of the inlets extend so far to sea. Many of the rivers have carried down so much sediment that they have made shoals ten or 2 .26 THE INLAND PASSAGE. fifteen miles off shore. So that apart from questions of safety and comfort, the distance by the inside passage is the shortest. In going South the yachtsman will pass large and ' numerous flocks of bay snipe on all the marshes south of Charleston. These marshes are muddy islands and of a peculiar nature. On the surface when dry they are firm enough for walking, but their shores are unfathomable ooze beneath which a man would sink at once out of sight and into which an oar can be run for its entire length with- out an effort. Curlew, willet, marlin, all varieties down to the tiny ox-eye, and in immense flocks, frequent these islands, where they seem to find food without stint. To stool them you can set out your decoys in the thin grass and make a stand near by from reeds or bushes. They are quite wary, how- ever, and seem to have learned the evil significance of a gun. These marshy islands are honeycombed with the burrows of the fiddler crab, and mussels grow on their surface in soft mounds of earth. They are covered by very high tides and are always more or less damp. The bay snipe, however, do not seem to winter here. They leave a small proportion of their numbers, but the main body goes further South, possibly beyond the equator. There are no such myriads as the Northern flight would require, and they grow fewer and fewer as the season advan- ces, till in March they are almost scarce. Let the sportsman take his toll from them while he can ; stopping amidst the lonesomeness of these islands THE INLAND PASSAGE. 27 where it is certain death to pass a summer, and few of which are inhabited, and where he may sail tens of miles without seeing a man, white or hlack. Let him try the deep holes alongside of bluffs or where two creeks meet for sheepshead, using for bait the Southern prawn, that gigantic shrimp, with its body six inches long and its feelers ten ; and if he can catch no fish and misses the birds, let him rejoice in knowing that there are millions of both in Florida. In describing my trip to Florida, I do not intend to pursue any consecutive plan, or follow the posi- tive order of events. It is not important to know that we turned out to use the proper nautical term at a certain hour in the morning of a cer- tain day, and that we turned in again at night at some other division of mean sidereal or solar time, nor that we went a certain course or made so many miles one day and so many more or less the next. That is, the reader does not want to have too much of this, although a little now and then may tend to give a general idea of the trials, difficulties, and en- joyments of a yachtman's life. But whether we arrived at a place at five p. M. or five A. M. , important as it may have been to us at the time, cannot, so far as I can judge, interest tho reader as deeply as I hope to interest him. For all such information I will refer him to the ordinary books of travel. That we did occasionally make fast time in our little half scow, half yacht, that I built on the scheme of putting a sail in a canal boat, will be proved by this 28 THE IKLAXD PASSAGE. single event ; when running across St. Simon's sound in a fog, we passed a large steamer yacht, called the " Gleam," one of the largest and finest of Herreschoff's productions. We found her again in Jacksonville when we reached there. She had left Savannah on the second of January, we had left Charleston on the tenth; she had arrived two days ahead of us, so that by being able to keep inside out of the storms and fogs of the Atlantic, we had actually gone nearly double the distance in six days less time. The personnel of our party was made up of a sporting medical man, Mr. Seth Green, the famous fish-culturist, the ladies of the families and myself. We went without any restriction as to time, which is a most essential point in a yachting trip, and we stopped where we pleased, and as long as we pleased, we shot where there Avere birds to shoot, we fished where there were fish to catch, and where there were neither, we lay in the shade of the awning, if the weather was warm, and smoked, or ate those globes of concentrated lusciousness, the grape fruit when we felt too energetic to loaf, and not energetic enough to fish or shoot. Our trip was something of an exploring expedition, and we had possible dangers and inevitable inconveniences to encounter. Other parties had gone to Florida in the same way, but they had left no record of their adventures, no guide-posts for those who should come after them. So far as we were concerned, the country from North Carolina to the Land of Flowers was a terra THE INLAND PASSAGE. 29 incognita. We knew that there were birds, and beasts, and fish, in that equatorial region, but where to find them, how to reach them, and by what methods to catch and kill them, were wholly un- known to us. No one, after reading this record, will have the same complaint to make. Several of the Government charts were not completed, notably those of Pamlico Sound, and the corrections of that from Charleston south, so as to show the inside route had not been made in the year 1882, which was the one I had selected for the expedition. "We had sent the "Heartsease" to Norfolk, and were to meet her there, as by so doing we would save time that could be better utilized than by going over ground with which we were pretty well familiar that of New Jersey, Pennsylvania, and Virginia. At Norfolk, after we had purchased what hard-bread, cake, pies, and other stores and luxuries we needed, and had been through the fish market, and selected an abundance of the largest "spot," which is regarded as the most delicious native fish, although it is nothing more than what we call the Lafayette fish at the North, Ave engaged a tow and started on our journey. We had to go through the Albemarle and Chesapeake canal, and made our first mistake in supposing that a tow was a necessity for the operation. The puffy, dirty, fussy, little steamboat ran us against everything that she came near, and were it not that she was unable to attain any considerable rate of speed, our journey might have terminated before it fairly 30 THE INLAND PASSAGE. began. She jammed us against the dock when we were starting, banged us into the first vessel we met on our way, bumped us into the banks of the canal when we had entered it, dashed us into the only lock there was to get foul of, and then rammed us against a dredging scow so fiercely, that there was a momentary doubt whether we should not be dredged out as an impediment to travel. However, in spite of all these misadventures, we made Currituck before night. We determined to stay there some days for duck shooting, but I shall not stop to describe the sport we had. It is enough, that we loaded down our vessel with provisions, which, as the weather came out cold, kept till they were all consumed, and saved us from recourse to those last resources of the way-farer, the insipid canned meats, which, somehow, the manufacturers manage to make taste so nearly alike, that one will answer for the other, whether it is called mutton, beef, or fowl. Then we sped away south, running into Kittyhawk Bay for a harbor and a turkey, for no one must imagine that it is necessary to starve in the South, even amid the desolation of the deso- late Eastern Shore. Not only does the proverbial hospitality of the Southern people still exist as far as the effect of a desolating war has left it a possi- bility, but there are certain kinds of food to be got there more readily than even at the North. It has heretofore been a reproach to our Southern colored brother, that the attractions of a hen-roost and lus- ciousness of a fat turkey gobbler were too much for THE INLAND PASSAGE. 31 his -virtue. But this state of facts and morals is changing, the darkey is turning poultry fancier, he is getting to raise chickens and sell eggs, he is fast becoming a bloated fowl holder, and regular goose and turkey wing clipper ; in his eyes the chicken is assuming a different status, and hen-roost maraud- ing is fast becoming a heinous crime, than which there is none more unpardonable. He will soon be the fowl monopolist, and when that day comes I predict that the chicken will be regarded as a sacred bird, and placed in the same catagory as the ibis of Egypt. As it is, eggs can be obtained almost any- where, and wherever there is a darkey's hut, there the voice of the cackling hen ascends in welcome and suggestive music to high heaven, resonant of omelettes plain, omelettes aux fines Jierbes, with ham or with onion, of scrambled eggs, boiled, roasted eggs, of pan cakes and sweet cakes, of cus- tards, egg-nog, and all the thousands delicacies towards which the hen contributes with enthusiastic zeal, and greatly to the happiness of man. The course of the contraband can be exemplified by that of the milk farmer, if the story which I once heard from an eminent retired politician is true, as I think it may be. Many of the farmers living in the neighborhood of Utica were in the habit of supplying that city with milk from the herds of cows that the magnificent meadows of the vicinity easily supported. Those careful and con- scientious gentlemen, aware of the heating proper- ties of milk in its strong and crude state, felt it was 32 THE INLAND PASSAGE. but a duty they owed their fellow beings, and espe- cially their customers, to make sure that they did not incur the evils which were certain to arise from the unguarded use of so deleterious a beverage. They mixed the dangerous fluid with a sufficient proportion of water to kill the germs of disease, and lest their motives should be misunderstood, they did not mention their thoughtfulness to the consumers. Hence it was that Utica enjoyed unex- ampled health, and it would no doubt have contin- ued in tlje same enjoyment except for a change in the methods of milk culture. Milk, instead of being converted into butter or sold in its natural state, came in time to be manufactured into cheese. Great cheese dairies were established, to which the farmers sent their milk, in place of disposing of it by local trade. Now it was essential that the milk so delivered should be absolutely pure, for the ex- cellence of the product not only depended on this, but also in order that the amount might be fairly credited to each of the persons furnishing a share of the supply. Then the bucolic view that had hereto- fore obtained in that neighborhood was modified, and of all the sins in the decalogue, none was quite so henious as the adulteration of milk. I do not vouch for this story, although a long course of lac- tic experience in the city of New York gives it an air of possibility. Certain it is that since the in- troduction of cheese factories, the health of Utica has declined, but then no one can positively say that this change is due entirely to the purity of the milk. THE ItfLAXD PASSAGE. 33 On our way to Kitty Hawk, we had passed a number of nets which the local fishermen were haul- ing, and Mr. Green, who had a mania for inter- viewing every one he met, had promptly boarded the first of the boats, obtained all the statistics, and even helped make one haul. He found out that they caught what they called chub, the big-mouthed bass (Grystes salmoides), as large as eight pounds; white perch; the robin, which is our sunfish; red fin, our yellow perch; bull sucker, our black sucker; sucker-mullet, our mullet, which were taken in the creeks and up in the swamps, and nanny shad, which seemed to be our gizzard shad, known in Baltimore as bream. As they did not have all these varieties in the boat at the time, we were not quite sure as to the last. The fishermen knew nothing of the spawning season, but we found roe three inches long in a seven-pound big-mouthed black bass. There is a club house at Kitty Hawk Bay, belong- ing to the Kitty Hawk Ducking Club, but it was deserted when we were there by the club, and given over to the possession of Captain Cain, who runs the principal fishery in that part of the country. He told us that the bass spawned in March, and that the same kinds of fish were caught near there which I have described. While we were ashore en- joying his hospitality, a sudden squall came up and blew most of the water out of the bay, so that the small boat in which we had come ashore was left a hundred feet from the edge of the water. The next day, which was December 8th, we 34: THE INLAND PASSAGE. passed Nag's-head Hotel, and came to anchor in a perfect little harbor in the lower part of Roanoke Island, where Captain Cain once had a terrapin farm. It was a charming, though deserted, spot, a bay just large enough for the yacht to swing in, and completely land-locked, the buildings tumbling to pieces, the terrapin ponds still there, but with not only their occupants departed, but the very fences falling down or being used for firewood. The specu- lation had failed, because even there, in the very home and abiding place of the terrapin, he had grown so scarce that a sufficient business could not be done to make it profitable. Terrapins are taken, as Mr. Green soon found out, in bag or trawl nets, that are drawn along the bottom, as we at the North use a dredge for oysters. On the front of the net, which hangs loosely behind, is an iron bar, of suf- ficient weight to lie close to the bottom as it is being dragged; this slips under the terrapins, which are thus carried into the net. We readily understood that they were not plenty, when we were informed that "count" terrapins, that is, those over six inches in length, bring on the ground one dollar apiece. The weather had become very cold for yachting. The thermometer fell to eighteen degrees daring the night, and we found that all the resources of our vessel were hardly equal to keeping us warm in our berths. Early next morning we obtained our first oysters. We had brought oyster tongs with us; in fact, if there was any kind THE INLAND PASSAGE. 35 of rod, reel, line, net, hook, sinker, swivel, or fishing device whatever that we had not brought I should like to be informed of it. When Mr. Green joined the yacht and produced from the bow- els of an immense trunk, a luxury that in itself I never knew him to allow himself before, and which was in our way the entire journey till we got rid of it at Jacksonville, much to its owner's chagrin first two breech-loaders, then a rifle and a hundred weight of ammunition, then an immense bundle of sporting rods, next i box of lines and reels, and finally an over- grown scrapbook filled with all manner of gangs of hooks, the doctor and myself felt that the sporting interest would not suffer. As I had sent him word that he need bring neither guns, fishing tackle, nor ammunition, it was evident that he intended we should not fall short, But now when our men be- gan tonging up the delicious bivalves which we had not seen for so many days, on account of the fresh- ness of the water, we felt thankful for one of our precautions. Here let me warn the reader that he be sure to bring oyster tongs with him. He will find it difficult to get them in the South at all, and if he can they will be much heavier and more awkward than those in use with us. Just south of the opening in- to our night's harbor, and in the main channel, we found a man at work oystering and we joined him promptly, confident that where there was enough for one there was in this matter enough for two. Either the oysters off the lower end of Koanoke Island are very delicious, or else our appetites were sharp from 36 THE INLAND PASSAGE. abstinence. For as fast as our man Charley brought them to the surface and deposited them on the deck, we opened them with a skill founded on some expe- rience and more desire, and devoured them with hearty gusto. We loaded up with oysters and then started once more on our course, but the wind fell off and we anchored in Stumpy Point Bay, some thirty miles to the southward and on the main shore. At our last stopping plac3 a sick man had come aboard for ad- vice, and here we not only found two others, but were also informed that their mother was at the point of death. There seemed to be a sublime faith in these people that all Northerners must know something of medicine, as none of them had a suspicion of our having a physician in the party. Indeed they came for " a drawing of tea" as they called it, rather than for any special medicine, for they appeared to consider sickness the natural condition of man, as among those terribly unhealthy swamps and low lands it probably is. After that almost everywhere we went we were asked for "a drawing of tea" for some sick person. Their ailments were evidently only too well found- ed, and as the people were clearly not a complaining set, we were sorry that we had not brought more of the coveted article with us. The whites of this coast looked weazened, thin, yellow, and cadaverous, as if they had a perpetual conflict with fever in which they invariably got the worst of it. They had the shadow of death in ttosir faces. In their motions THE INLAND PASSAGE. 37 they exhibited a langour which strangers are apt to attribute to laziness, but which I believe due to dis- ease. Let a man once take the southern fever, and it will be many months if not years before he feels like himself again. Our latest patients were fisher- men, and to Mr. Green's insatiable inquiries they ex- plained that they caught in their seasons shad ; rock, our striped bass; trout, our weakfish; hickory shad, white perch, mullet, spot, round-nosed shad and flat backs, though what these latter were was more than we could guess. They said that the fishing had fallen off greatly of late years, but that the prices had increased and that now they were paid seventy five cents for a roe shad, and thirty for bucks. Next day was clear and cold, with a strong and favor- able wind from the north-west, so much so that even the imperturbable doctor was impatient to be off, but Mr. Green had an idea, and when he has anything of that sort he is the last man to part with it without full fruition. To our proposal to get under weigh early ho replied. " Beyond this you tell me that we have a groat stretch of open water ?" " Yes," I answered, "the entire Pamlico Sound, which must be a hundred and fifty miles long and fifty broad, so the more advantage we take of this favorable wind the better." " Well, you expect to find ducks, don't you, on the route ?" he inquired by way of response. "I hardly know what we shall find," I answered, "but I should like to find ducks, and have heard ^65125 38 THE INLAND PASSAGE. that there are innumerable brant on the ocean side." "That is just as I supposed/' was Mr. Green's reply, as he took up the axe that lay on the deck, "and as you have no battery, how do you expect to kill them ?" The doctor and I had nothing to reply, and Mr. Green, carrying the axe, called one of the men and rowed away to the shore in triumph. During his absence the doctor, who is a cordon bleu, prepared the turkey that we had purchased at Kitty Hawk for cooking, by stuffing it with the oysters that we had tonged at Roanoke Island. By the time this culinary feat was accomplished, our master of fish culture had returned. He had cut a dozen stakes about eight feet long, which were to be used to improvise a blind, by thrusting them into the bottom and tying strings around from one to the other, and hanging reeds or grass tied in bunches over the strings. These precautionary measures being taken, we got under-way. The wind had increased to almost a gale, and our brave little vessel fairly leaped before it towards the South like a race horse. Quite a sea had made in the broad expanse of Pamlico Sound, which can be stormy enough when in the humor, and the waves rolled after us in vain and vindictive fury. There were two large steamers going South, and we held them for some time, and had hopes of keeping up with them, but they slowly drew ahead, and left us alone in the waste of tumultuous waves. THE INLAND PASSAGE. 41 We made one of our best runs that day. The weather was too perfect for us to stop for fish or birds, although we saw clouds of the latter rising up in the distance from the disturbed surface of the Sound. We ought to have gone to Hatteras, or Roanoke Inlet, where we had been assured by the residents the brant shooting was magnificent, but we could not lose such unusually favorable Aveather, and sped on and on through the seething waves, hour after hour, till when the sun was still quite well above the horizon, we ran through the narrow channel into the peaceful waters of Core Sound. What a change came over the spirit of our sail- ing, from the boisterous violence and rough seas that beat our vessel's sides turbulently, or followed us fiercely to the scarcely ruffled bosom of the small and shallow bay, only a few miles wide, and shut in on all sides by the land. We managed to reach Lewis's Creek before sunset, where we saw a number of working boats going to find security for the night. When we had anchored among them, the fishermen told us that there were the usual kinds of salt water fish, although there was no tide in Core Sound other than that made by the wind. They said there was good oystering off the point of Lewis's Creek, and next day proved their words. Ib was a wild spot. The only mark of human habita- tion being an old wind-mill, which stood on the point, The weird effect was further heightened during the darkness by the lighting of fires by the fishermen, who had no sleeping accommodations 42 THE INLAND PASSAGE. on their boats, and who went ashore for the purpose. "Would you like to kill an English snipe?" called out Seth Green to me next morning from the shore, whither he had already gone with our boat- man, Charley. I had been busy, or perhaps, if the truth must be confessed, sleepy, and had just come on deck. " Of course," was my instantaneous reply, the idea of any one not wanting to kill an English snipe being too ridiculous to entertain for a moment. " Then get your gun, and Charley will come for you in the boat." In five minutes the doctor and I were both ashore, and in less than as many more we had put up and bagged our first bird. It seemed that Charley, who, as I have already stated, was an old gunner, had heard the bird as he flew over, and had seen him alight. He did not know that there were more than one, but we found quite a flight of them. The spot was not large, but it was evidently a favorite one. We had no dogs and went floundering about through the mud, but at every few steps a bird was flushed, and his appearance commemorated by the report of a gun or the cheery cry of, " mark !" It was a deli- cious episode in our trip, for no sport is more appre- ciated by the true sportsman than the killing of our gamest of all game birds, the stylish English snipe. In two hours we had bagged thirty-one. In fact we had killed them all, for if we did not get them at the first rise, it was easy to follow them up, as they THE INLAND PASSAGE. 43 seemed so fond of the place that they would not leave it. After we had gone on board with our trophies, and while we were getting under way, we saw new whisps arriving to take the place of those which we had killed, as if they were informed of the event, and were anxious to profit by the disasters of their friends, even at the peril of their own lives. Core Sound was full of wild fowl, of which many were red-heads and canvas-backs, and had we had a battery, we could have killed unlimited numbers. We had to do as well as we could with Mr. Green's substitute, which, although better than nothing, was not at all equal to the proper machine. Neither had we time to wait. Florida was a long way off, and well we knew that, once there, we should have all the game w.e wanted ; so as we struck another favor- able wind, we did not stop at Harker's Island, where the best shooting is to be had, but ran on to Beau- fort. We had actually dawdled not more than three or four unnecessary days in Core Sound, before going into the narrow, shallow and difficult harbor of what was once the watering place as Avell as business mart of that section of the Southern country. The port dues are heavy, and I would advise the yachtsman to avoid it altogether and go, if he needs must go into any port, directly to Morehead City, which is rapidly appropriating the trade and fashion of its older rival. There is a large business in oysters at Beaufort, and the civilization of moss-bunker factories has been introduced from the North. Fish were scarce, 44 THE INLAND PASSAGE. but we purchased some very fair beef at very mod- erate prices, eighteen pounds of porterhouse being sold to us for eight cents a pound. The town is a pretty one, and the next day being Sunday, we went to the colored Methodist Church, a thing that no visitor must fail to do, and heard some very charm- ing singing. This was our first experience of the quaint, wild, and slightly barbaric harmony of the voices of the negroes, of which we were to hear a great deal before our return to the North. Beaufort was the first thoroughly Southern town, with its fig trees in the open air, the Yupawn, or native Tea tree, the red-berried evergreen bushes, whose name we could not ascertain, and its genial air of Southern indolent happiness, which we had visited. We were sorry to leave it, and had Florida been only placed where it ought to have been, five hundred miles nearer New York, we should have stayed days if not weeks longer. But the time was flitting by, and still we were a thousand miles from our destination. So without more ado we put to sea. From Beaufort to Cape Fear there is such a bend in the coast that it is laid down on the charts as a bay. Being shielded from the terrible northeasters of the Atlantic, which reach no farther than Cape Hatteras, it is as safe for a small vessel as any part of the boisterous ocean ever can be. But I was glad when Heartsease got through the voyage. With care there is no danger, and the trip is not half as perilous a one as we are accustomed to take at the North, where we are at home, without a thought of THE INLAND PASSAGE. 45 fear. There are numerous and very practicable in- lets, and the yachtsman should make sure of getting into one of them at night. The same may be said of the stretch beyond Cape Fear. Treat the mighty ocean with the respect it deserves, and it will never illtreat you. On the charts the northern or old inlet of Cape Fear is laid down as closed by a bulkhead. This it is no doubt intended to be, to the discomfort of small sailing craft, but at the timo I speak of it was open. Possibly it was only opened temporarily by a storm, and may be shut again now. There were some birds in Bull's Bay, but not enough to induce us to pause, as we were anxious to get the yacht to Charleston as quickly as we could. So we made the most of the wind and the tide, and anchored over against Fort Moultrie early in Jan- uary. Does any of my readers care to hear how we enjoyed Christmas Day ! If so, I will in that con- nection, and with the happy sacredness of that day in my mind, make a confession. In one of the open- ing paragraphs of this history I mentioned the fact that we had a stove, a cooking as well as heating stove, in the main saloon. I did not, however, acknowledge what I am now about to make public, that every one of the party, from the state-rooms to the forecastle, was a cook, and in the opinion of him or herself a most sweet and dainty chef de cuisine. Aware of this divine afflatus, they were none of them entirely content unless they were exhibiting their skill, so both stoves were run to their utmost capacity, and as the appetites of the party were good 46 THE INLAND PASSAGE. and daily growing better, a vast consumption of pro- visions was continually taking place. While each was at heart assured that their own productions were a little the best, and tempted the others to admission of the fact by the offering of special deli- cacies where delicacies were not needed, there was no one mean enough to . repudiate the work of a brother or sister artist, even if it were ruined in the preparation or burned to tastleseness in the cooking. Christmas was by common consent set apart as the day on which each and every member of our briny household should cook whatever they found best in their own eyes. The store-room was thrown open and free liberty of selection was given to all. To the male kitchen genius the most difficult article to prepare, is the most necessary one, bread. Within the realms of civilization the staff of life seems, as it were, to grow of itself. It can be found on every corner ; stares in fat complacency at you from the shop windows on every block ; there is never any dearth of bread so long as there is a penny to purchase it ; delicate-minded tramps scorn it, and in every well-regulated household enough of it is thrown into the waste pail to feed another house- hold of equal numbers. But at sea this is different, and when man, though he pride himself on the bril- liant hue of his blue ribbon, is required to make good the deficiency, he is apt to come to grief. So the queen of our marine family announced that she would make a big batch of bread for that special festivity. THE INLAND PASSAGE. 47 While no one could or would dare to dispute the ability of that lady to do well whatever she under- took, yet in the matter of bread making her methods were peculiar. In the first place she had to have the cabin to herself, and as bread has to be set over night, we were all turned out on Christmas eve and left to shiver on the deck. Then she has a way of strewing flour about in the operation till she covers the tables, the chairs, the floor, even the sides of the saloon and sometimes the cabin roof with dough or its ingredients. It was not five minutes after we were allowed to return, the " rising" having been made an accomplished fact and set away in a corner, before our hands, our clothes, our faces, and our very hair were covered with incipient bread. But worse even than that was the injunction that was solemnly laid on us under no circumstances to presume to touch the "rising" which had been deposited directly over the stove, and without moving which it would be im- possible to get breakfast. As our lady was a late riser herself, and would never stir till she was assured through the state-room door that her breakfast was ready and on the table, the question of having that important meal was as complicated as getting the fox, the goose, and the corn over the stream. One of the associate lady patronesses devoted her- self to making biscuits, as the bread would not be cooked till dinner time. I evolved pancakes, the doctor compounded a hash, and altogether we began Christmas with such a breakfast as is rarely met with on the desert surface of the inland water communi- 48 THE INLAND PASSAGE. cation between the North and the South. Seth Green had reserved himself till, as he politely re- marked, " the rest of you should be through your mussing," then he began. But his efforts did not last long unmolested, he had split open a duck, a fat one had been especially selected for so unusual an occasion. This he had laid between the wires of an oyster broiler, then he opened the entire top of the stove and proceeded to broil it upon the hot coals. It is unnecessary to remark that such a proceeding evolved an amount of smoke that filled the cabin full in a moment. The rest of the party were busy at their breakfeast enjoying the delicacies which had already been prepared, when they were fairly suffo- cated by this torrent of smoke and began to realize as never before the sad fate of the inhabitants of Pompeii. " Seth" I exclaimed, " can't you keep part of the stove covered so as to let some of the smoke go up the chimney ?" "Mr. Green, Mr. Green," came from the ladies all at once, "please don't smother us." " Smoke and the gas of cooking" gasped the doc- tor, his philosophy almost dissipated in it " are in- jurious at meal times, there is such a thing as being asphyxiated." "For heaven's sake," I implored, for by this time the condition of the atmosphere was unbear- able, " do throw that duck out of the companion way." "Oh Mr. Green do stop cooking that horrid THE INLAND PASSAGE. 49 duck," exclaimed our princess, "if you do not I shall have to leave the table." That last threat was too much, Seth could not bear to be ranked as an obstructive when he was ac- complishing a culinary triumph which was to delight our gustatory nerves and establish forever his repu- tation as a cookist. He turned a reproachful face towards the party without showing the slightest sign of discontinuing his fell work, and with an air of bitter rebuke retorted upon us. " This is the first time that I have done any cook- ing. All the rest of you have cooked as much as you liked. I have stood to one side and got out of the way and never had a chance, and now the very instant I cook a little duck you all make a fuss. I don't think it's fair. I did want a piece of duck for my breakfast and I picked out the smallest one for fear somebody would think I was greedy, and now you ask me to throw it overboard ; it is almost done, and if you will only have patience for a few moments I will be through." His manner was more impressive than even his words, and no one had the heart to reply. We tearfully held our napkins to our noses to keep out the smoke and smell as well as we could, we coughed and choked, but we allowed him to finish. Unfortunately Seth believes in cooking a duck to a chip, and hence he was occupied longer than he had promised, but he was through at last, and then not only was he happy in the vindication of his culinary knowledge, but he had the satisfaction of bringing our ingrati- 50 THE INLAND PASSAGE. tu.de home to us, by pressing on us choice morsels, which he offered in a delicate and forgiving way upon his own fork, and which we were fain to accept and swallow in the same fashion under pain of again offending him. Nevertheless the duck was good, the biscuits were good, the pancakes were excellent, the hash was superb, every article of diet all day long, from the gorgeous breakfast to the gorging at supper, when appetite had been more than sated, were unsurpass- able and we had a Christmas long to be remembered. We remained in Charleston for two weeks. If the reader asks what we were doing all that time, let him go to the old time Queen City of the South, now apparently being displaced by her enterprising rival, Savannah ; let him roam about her quaint streets and mingle with her hospitable people, and he will find out. There is much of physical and human interest in and around Charleston, from the live oaks on her Battery or White Point Park, and the moss covered trees of her famous Magnolia cemetery, to the oys- ters growing in thousands around her sea-wall, and which would furnish unlimited sustenance to her citizens were they not oyster surfeited. We stood and gawked at the tropical plants in full foliage, and at the orange trees in full bearing, in the house door gardens till the residents, unacquainted though they were personally with us, took pity and gave us the names of the plants and told us that the oranges were sour, none of the sweet varieties being able to grow so far north.- We loafed around the market THE INLAND PASSAGE. 51 which was an ever renewing delight to Mr. Green, who, before we left, had established a personal bond of admiration and friendship from every darkey fisherman who brought his cargo there. We fed the turkey buzzards, we ascertained that the fish about Charleston were, in their various seasons, mostly sheepshead, bass, the drum of North Carolina and channel bass of Florida, Corvina Ocellata; sea-bass, here called black fish, which are mostly caught by the negroes outside the bar in their open boats; sea trout, our weak fish; mullet, which they told us were becoming scarce; blue fish which are never caught in winter, and which also were diminishing in numbers; black drum ; big porgees of four or five pounds; both the salt and fresh water varieties of cat fish, which were very abundant; whiting, our king fish, and their finest table delicacy; angel fish, crevalle; fresh water trout, our black bass, and shad, which begin their run in January. All around Charleston the negroes seem to be in possession of the country. They are pleasant, polite, and lazy, arc content to do the old slave tasks even when working for themselves, and will never consent to do more when working for others at any price of remuneration, as though if they worked too hard the work would be exhausted and there would soon be nothing more to do. They are paid fifty cents a cord, for instance, to cut wood, and they stop when they have cut one cord, although they are through at one o'clock. They look more healthy and happy than the whites throughout the entire 52 THE INLAND PASSAGE. South, which is a probably a climacteric result, but pregnant of many possibilities for the future. It is they who supply Charleston market, it is they who do the fishing and the work, and more important still, it is they who make all the Sea-island cotton and bring it to the city in their boats from the shores where inevitable death lurks for the superior race. That most valuable of Southern products, the old time king of the world, arrives in driblets, here a pound and there a pound. It is badly baled, but it comes and in good order too. To day the negro controls the whilom king, which is indeed putting the bottom rail on top. The Charleston "Eagles," as he called the buz- zards, were a source of infinite complacency to the philosophical soul of the doctor. He would watch them by the hour, sympathizing with their metaphysically thoughtful ways. He would study their awkward and ungainly motions on the ground, and wonder that anything so ungraceful on foot could be so exquisitely elegant and graceful in the air when on the wing. These queer creatures stay around the market, and although the law forbids their being fed, as it is found Avith them as with human buzzards that necessity is the mother of scav- engering, your butcher is always ready to throw them a surreptitious piece of meat for your amuse- ment. They are the only street cleaners, and if they got their dinners gratuituosly they might cease their useful public labors. On January tenth we tore ourselves away from THE INLAND PASSAGE. 53 Charleston, bidding good bye to its pretty streets, its tall spires, its beautiful gardens, and its pleasant inhabitants, among whom we must especially men- tion Commander Merril Miller of the Light-house service, who was very kind in furnishing us charts and assisting us in many ways. We bid a last farewell to Forts Su inter and Moultrie, and all the historic memories which are entwined with those names ; to Sullivan's Island, the Coney Island of Charleston, to the Three Sisters, three palmettos which guard the gate where once the confederate soldier stood sentry, and to the tomb of Oceola close by, to the buzzards and the beauties of the city, catching a last glimpse of White Point Park to which we waived a tender adieu. We headed our course to wards the creek which has re- ceived the euphuistic appellation of " Wappoo Cut." We carried away from Charleston this one valuable piece of information: to make " Hop-in- John," boil one quart of cow peas (a sort of small bean), and one pound of bacon till thoroughly cooked, then put in two quarts of rice, boil for about half an hour longer and until well done, then add salt and pepper. This recipe came from the colored chef of the Charleston hotel and must be correct. Hence hereafter no man or woman can claim to be so ignorant that they can- not cook "Hop-in- John." Beyond Charleston we had our first disagreeable adventure ; it occurred when we were running through Wappoo Cut. We had been offered a volunteer tow by a small steam tug that we met there, but had hardly hitched fast to her, 54 THE IHLAND PASSAGE. before a passenger steamer came in sight going the same way. This vessel gradually gained on us, and when she was close at hand, finding there was no room to pass, as the cut is extremely narrow near its outlet where we were, ran deliberately between our yacht and the tug, cutting our stern line away and nearly sinking us. This was an occasion, in which we should have been justified in shooting the pilot at his post, but we were in a foreign country, so to speak, and all we did was to cast loose our lines and get clear the best we could. The whole performance was the less excusable, because the wheelman saw there were ladies on board our boat, and that we were strangers. As this was the only piece of discourtesy shown us on our entire trip, I give the name of the vessel which was guilty of it, and warn all passengers to shun the "Pilot Boy." It was by good luck alone that we escaped, for hardly had we got clear, than the two steamers jammed together, filling the cut from side to side, so that both were aground, and we heard the crash- ing of timbers and saw them fast there for nearly an hour. Had the "Heartsease" been between them, she would have been crushed. If any of our readers go South by the inland passage from Charles- ton, and it is a pleasant way of travel, we hope they will in a measure revenge our wrongs, and give a brutal captain a lesson in decent behavior, by refus- ing to patronize the " Pilot Boy." One of the most interesting features of the coun- try we were now passing was the rice fields. These THE INLAND PASSAGE. 55 were separated by dykes, and being nearly rectangu- lar, gave a novel appearance to the low, marshy land. Had we known where to go, we could prob- ably have had good English snipe shooting. But we did not stop to give Mr. Green a chance to inter- view any one to find out. AVe, however, saw num- berless flocks of bay snipe on the lower part of the South Edisto, where the wind left us one night, and where Mr. Green killed a couple of dozen. On the following day, that gentleman was so pleased with the performance of the yacht in crossing St. Helena Sound in a squall, that he insisted on our putting to sea, upon the ground that he was tired of such tame sailing. The rest of the party were nothing loth, and the good little ship was soon across the bar and on the broad bosom of old Mother Ocean, a very step-mother as she can at times prove herself to be. Unfortunately, the wind died out, and we were becalmed or nearly so, and crawled slowly past Fripp's Inlet. When we were just outside Port Eoyal breakers, which we reached at sundown, there was a dead calm, and we drifted backwards till we came to anchor in some four fathoms of water. Our luck did not desert us, and before dark a nice breeze sprang up, which carried us into the harbor and up to the mouth of Skull Creek, where we passed the night in perfect comfort. Next morning the wind came out strong from the north- east, blowing what sailors would call half a gale of wind. We got under way as soon as we could, and were soon slashing along at a good nine miles 56 THE INLAND PASSAGE. ^ an hour. To be sure of our speed, I proposed to make a log line. Now there is one point about Seth Green, winch is if possible more decidedly developed than another; while he is perfectly satisfied that anything he does is better done than it ever was, ever will, or ever can be, by any one else, he is equally well convinced that no one else can do any- thing that he cannot, so when I made this pro- position he simply smiled an incredulous smile. Under the force of that implication, a log line had to be made, and made to work, if all hands had to swear that she was making ten miles an hour when she was only making two. It was an original species of a log. I knew the proper divisions for a fourteen second glass, which was the one we had on board, but the "chip" had to be manufactured out of the side of an old cigar box. I never shall forget Seth's air of triumph, when having driven in the pin too hard, it did not slip out at the scientific jerk I gave when " time " was called on the first trial, the result being that the line parted when I was drawing it in. This merely encouraged me, as there was no difficulty in curing that defect, the only danger having been that my improvised "chip" would not hold well enough. So the log was soon in working order, and informed us that we were running nine miles an hour, and repeated the figure so often, that the skeptic was convinced, and asked me to join him while he apologized. More bay snipe of all sorts, little and big, but no THE INLAND PASSAGE. 57 time to shoot them. They were flying about by twos, by threes, by dozens, by hundreds, but the wind was too fair and too fresh for us to lose it. AVe might be punished by being reduced to living on canned food, which, with the exception of corned beef, vegetables, and preserves, was an abomination to the entire party, and we did not stop voluntarily, till we reached Jekyl's Creek. In reference to JekyPs Creek, there is an entry in my log, that is interesting to show how history repeats itself; "Oysters Excellent.". Half a century befo*re, Professor Bache, who made the very charts by which we were sailing, had appreciated the excel- lence of the Jekyl Creek oysters, and had them barrelled and sent to him every year. I doubt, how- ever, whether he knew how to cook them, at least in the quantity necessary for a hungry yachting party, and with the limited cooking appliances of a yacht. They are called '' Raccoon Oysters," for the reason that the raccoons exhibited so much human nature in first appreciating their excellence, and in getting at their contents. They exist in immense mounds and piles, and to the Northern eye seem inex- haustible in numbers, covering hundreds, if not thousands of square miles, and averaging three feet thick. They line the shores of the creeks and water courses like two walls, and cling to branches of bushes, till it can be truly said of them that they grow on trees. Their natural position is with their edges upward, and these are nearly as sharp as 58 THE INLAND PASSAGE. razors, and will cut one's fingers or a raccoon's paw terribly, unless care is taken in handling them. The 'coon's plan is to slyly watch at low tide, when the beds are bare, till the unsuspicious bivalve, longing for a breath of the pure air of heaven as a change from the insipid diet of salt water, opens his mouth, when he quietly creeps forward and drops a piece of shell into the opening. Mas- ter oyster endeavors to resume his natural close- ness of mouth, but in vain ; the early closing move- ment has no reference to him. My plan of treatment was different, although the final consequence to the oyster was about the same. To open such sharp-edged creatures in the ordinary way would soon have put our crew, experienced in oyster opening though they were, hors du combat, or to state it in English, useless for rope-hauling. Even to separate them from one another was a peril- ous job, so I hit upon the simple plan of putting them in bunches just as they grew into the ovens of the two stoves. There I let them roast till they opened their mouths of their own accord, precisely as they had done for the raccoon, but under a little more compulsion. Cooked in this way they were so delicious as to be worth a trip to Jekyl's Creek merely to get. We almost lived on Jekyl Creek oysters, and if any one of the party got out of spirits, if Mr. Green or the Doctor wanted to propitiate one of the queens of the yacht, and the Doctor especially was continually engaged in that way, he never failed with a roasted raccoon oyster. CHAPTEK II. IN FLORIDA. And now we are at Fernandina, in Florida at last. It has been a long but a delightful trip. Of all the yachting we ever did, and all of us have been more or less followers of the sea, that is, the inland sea, since childhood, we agreed unanimously this sail from New York to the South by the inland naviga- tion, was the most delightful. It was an unbroken charm from the beginning to the end, with no more of real danger about it than would have been en- countered on Broadway under falling bricks and over caving vaults. The variety of scenery was charming, the oddity of the trees and plants most interesting, and had we had the time to devote to it, the fishing and shooting would have been superb. We had passed old Fernandina, and came to anchor opposite the new town of the same name, which had been selected on account of its having a better harbor in a norther, that terror of south- ern latitudes in winter, and which must have raked the old town pretty thoroughly. We had to go ashore at once. The tides have a great rise and fall, and we were glad to avail ourselves of the boat club landing which was kindly placed at our dis- posal. We found Fernandina a quaint old town, with a mixture of newness and age about it. North- 60 IX FLOEIDA. ern men coming for their health had brought North- ern ways and extravagances ; there were modern villas and trim gardens, but the old mansions were still to be seen, and a few of the ancient houses built of coquina, a combination of lime and shell. No innovations could do away with the Southern foliage, which here was in rank growth and profusion. We saw orange trees in full bearing ; palmetto trees in abundance, from the scrub saw-palmetto to the lordly cabbage palm, and cactuses six feet high, to- gether with all the other trees and plants of the warm latitudes. There is a fine shell road to the sea beach that is so hard that the wheels of a wagon scarcely make a mark upon it. This beach is the favorite promenade drive of natives and visitors in the season which had not come quite yet, although near at hand. Boys in the streets were selling sugar-canes at five cents a stick, and banana bushes, which are herbacious plants, were growing in many of the gardens. Mr. Green proceeded first to indulge in the entire luxuries of a barber's establishment that he found, and then to interview the whole population. He came to the yacht in time for supper, laden with information and two fine Southern weakfish, which are much better to eat than our Northern variety, and which are locally known as trout. The fishing around Fernandina is exceedingly good, and we found the colored population, which takes to fishing as naturally as the bee is nautically supposed to take to a tar bucket, everywhere, pur- IN FLORIDA. 61 suing the finny tribes through the numerous creeks and arms of the sea. Here we saw for the first time the circular cast net. It was used for catching the enormous shrimp or prawn, which, while shaped like the common shrimp, has a body six inches long, and feelers still longer. This curious creature is mostly used for bait, though it is excellent eating when boiled. There is good sheepsheading in the creek opposite the last house before reaching the cut, and as it was impossible to keep Mr. Green quiet longer without a day's fishing, we had to let him go while the rest of us enjoyed the mere pleasure of existence in the delicious climate. "\Ve ate oranges and sucked sugar-cane in true childhood style, and wandered through the village while he was pursuing science. We were not a little ashamed of ourselves when he returned with a magnificent string of sheepshead, both the large and small kinds, sea trout, and a dozen other varieties, victualling the ship for several days. Then our sails were once more set and we were off for the further South, for there always is a higher height and a deeper depth; so there is a further south, a further west, and a more inac- cessible north. We did not go far, however, before we had to stop. Not that there was any dire neces- sity, not that any member of our party was sick, nor that the wind or the bread had given out ; not that we had lost our course or were actually impeded in any wise, but still we had to stop in order to catch crabs. I take it for granted that there is none of my readers so unfortunate as never to have eaten 62 IN FLORIDA. that most delicious of table luxuries, the hard-shell for I have never given my allegiance to the soft- crab. If that is so, then I will have no occasion to make further explanation, when I say that the finest crabs which we got in the Southern waters, we caught at Fernandina, or rather between that place and Jacksonville, for the crabbing was good all the way. Mr. Seth Green is especially fond of these strange animals, who insist on wearing their bones outside of their skins, and no inducement except satiety will persuade him away from good crabbing ground. The Doctor is also found of crabs, and so were all the rest of those on board, and hence there was not the slightest objection when Mr. Green made the following sensible remark : " Well now that we have got to Florida, don't you think it 'most time to begin to enjoy ourselves? You have kept us all hard at work as if our lives depend- ed on it, driving away through good weather and bad, through rain and shine in order to get here, and now that we are here don't you think that you might let up for a few days at least till we could have a little of the pleasure we came after?" The wild ducks which we had killed in Currituck were gone long ago, the snipe we had found on the way down, had lasted only a short time, but Mr. Green bad supplied us with all the fish we could eat, oysters lay around us begging to be picked up and roasted, and now we had an unlimited supply of crabs, which merely requested us to offer them a piece of refuse meat in exchange for their luscious bodies. IK FLOBIDA. 63 If a man wants to live well and cheaply let him go to Florida, there certainly never was such a place for a yachting expedition. "When we had boiled a reserve of nearly a hundred crabs, and we had all eaten as many as we could, we ceased crabbing and went to sailing once more. Instead of going through the Sisters Creek, which is the shorter course, we stood out to sea from Fort George Inlet and ran into the St. John's, a thing which I would advise no man to do unless he was well acquainted with the bars, or had like myself a very light draft vessel, for both the channels are narrow and shoal. When we were once inside the St. John's we got out our nets in order to ascertain just what the waters contained. Although net fish- ing is not so stimulating as that with the hook and line, it is more certain even if both are in skilful hands. We were rewarded by some small yearling, moss- bunkers and bluefish, which, while the Doctor looked on them as a disappointment, were valuable as set- tling the question that both of these fish spawn in the Southern waters. A further result of our efforts was, that we hurried on to Jacksonville as fast as we could. On the way we ran over a shad net. It was early in the morning, and there was a sort of haze on the water, so that we did not see the log that the fishermen tie to the end of their nets, to point out where it is. The owners of it were taking it in from the other side of their boat, and even so old a fisherman as Mr. Green was deceived as to the direc- 64 IN FLOEIDA. tion in which it was stretched. We carried a piece of it away with us, and had to cut it off from our rudder. For this we were sorry, but were miles off before we had even got an idea of the extent of apol- ogy we would have to make, or of the damage for which we would gladly have paid. At Jacksonville we felt almost as much at home as if we were in New York. We found friends there, we made others, and enjoyed ourselves so thoroughly that it was only the imperative demands of sport that compelled us to move on. Just in the neigh- borhood of so large a city there is naturally not much to shoot or to catch. There are innumerable cat-fish which Mr. Green was never tired of taking, and which weighed as much as ten pounds each.. He insisted they were excellent eating, a matter in which we allowed him to have his opinion without contesting the question. The water on the surface is fresh, and some black-bass can always be caught in the vicinity. The condition of the water in the St. John's is different from that of any other stream with which I am familiar. Even as high up as Pilat- ka, eighty miles above, the surface water is absolute- ly fresh, while near the bottom there is a current so salt that crabs are caught in the shad nets. The salter fluid seems to be denser and heavier than the other, and will not mingle with it, so that we have the anomaly of both fresh and salt-water fish being caught at the same time and place. Into the St. John's there empty at every few miles tributary streams that are rarely ascended by the Itf FLORIDA. 65 visiting sportsman, and where the birds and fish exist in their primeval abundance and fearlessness. It is unnecessary to specify these by name, or to particu- larize any as better than others, for they are essen- tially alike. We could not explore them all, but those which we did, we found filled with fish and with a fair amount of game. It was too early in the year for alligators, if they can be called game, to show themselves, but birds were to be had plenti- fully, and fish were simply innumerable. Of these we killed so many that we had to salt them down. There is an additional interest, the interest of new explorations, in ascending the secluded rivers, and I advise every tourist who visits this portion of Flor- ida in his own conveyance, not to omit going up one or more of them. This was a late season, shad were running, and we had them continually on our table, but roses were not in full bloom in the open air, and as for straw- berries, which are usually abundant by New Year's, they had not come in at all yet. We had bought up all the curiosities that we could distribute among our Northern friends ; we had played with the baby alligators in the jewelry stores ; we had listened to the first installment of the wonderful Florida stories; we had dined at all the excellent Jacksonville hotels, and were ready to withdraw once more from civili- zation. So the Heartsease spread her sails again, and started up the river. I say "up," because by the current our course was up stream ; but it was down by the map. We were going south, the St. 66 IN FLOKIDA. John's being one of the few of the North American rivers which seem to run the wrong way, that is, from the south to the north. In our short stay in Jack- sonville we had learned that alligator-tooth jewelry is occasionally made of celluloid ; that one of the best drinks in the world of bar-keeping is a punch compounded from the native sour orange ; that Florida stories are always reliable, even when they assert that mosquitoes are so abundant that hogs make meals of them, or inform us that the favorite game fish of Florida, the tarpon, jumps six feet out of water when he is hooked, or that sharks will seize a man if they have to leap as high as the deck of the yacht to do so. In leaving Jacksonville, we supposed we were leaving all this behind us, not knowing that Florida is full of quaint jewelry made, as the jewelry of no other part of the world, out of fish scales, sau- rian teeth, sea beans, shells, orange tree woods, and sharks' molars ; that everywhere there are wonder- ful stories which only differ from one another in size ; that palmetto hats were to be bought in every village store, and that sour oranges hang from innu- merable trees, valueless for traffic, and only begging to be made into nectar fit for gods. By the time the Doctor had made these philo- sophical reflections, Heartsease was tearing along before a favoring breeze past Mandarin, past the Magnolia Hotel and Green Cove Spring; past Tocoi, the terminus of the St. Augustine Railroad, till she made anchorage by nightfall off Pilatka. On the way we had put up many ducks, had seen the cows Ltf FLOBIDA. 07 up to their backs in water feeding off the cahbage at the bottom, and thrusting their heads clear under to get it, and we began to realize that in the end we might come to believe anything of the wonders of this wonderful land. On the last day of our stay in Jacksonville, we had given a little lunch on board, and to show what dinners can be got up there, and how easily, I will reproduce the bill of fare. Every- thing had been prepared on board, and although our cabin could only seat twelve, we placed before the guests cold turkey, beef and tongue, chicken salad, prepared by the Doctor in most artistic style, stewed oysters, roast potatoes, radishes, and for des- sert banana salad an invention of the better part of the party, Dummit Grove oranges, sapidillas, and grape fruit, with pieces montees of palmetto leaves and sour oranges en branches. There was a little pate de foies gras also, but that need not be counted, because it came from the Xorth. TVe found that when we had reached Pilatka the stories, instead of diminishing, developed yet more astonishing proportions. The mosquitoes, that the hogs fed on at Jacksonville, put out the head light of the locomotive at Pilatka, extinguished a bonfire, and made nothing of the negroes " light wood torches;" the tarpon of Jacksonville could only jump six feet high when hooked, while the tarpon of Pilatka, with- out being hooked, bounded clear over the rail of the steamboat Seth Low, which was ten feet from the water, struck the captain in the stomach, and knock- ed him down. "We had not been at Pilatka two days, 68 IN FLORIDA. before we were ready to swallow any mental halluci- nation, so rapidly does faith grow in the glorious, and balmy air of Florida. If Jacksonville had been attractive, Pilatkawas equally so. Opposite to it is the famous orange grove of Mr. Hart, which we had to visit, and where we ate our first oranges, plucked by ourselves from the trees, beside tasting mandarins and tangerins, lem- ons, limes, guava and bananas, and that best of all oranges, the grape fruit. There were great planta- tions of bananas, which grow by suckers from the roots, and increase like weeds. They have to be three years old before they bear, and the development of the flower and fruit, which was going on while we were there, was a pretty sight. The top of the stalk turns over and produces a huge purple flower of a single leaf, as large as the hand of a giant. From under this large leaf starts a circle of small sprouts like fingers. The big leaf falls off, but from the ends of the fingers burst other, much smaller purple flowers. Then below the row of fingers grows an- other large flower like the first, and it also uncovers another row of fingers, so on till the entire bunch of bananas, as we know it in the market, is formed. Even then the flower point does not cease growing, but exhibits flower after flower, which are merely ornamental and do not result in fruit. Sprouts start so freely from the roots, that the young bushes have to be cut away every year with scythes, or they would become crowded, and the fruit degenerate. Every day, that was spent studying the wonderful IN FLORIDA. 69 productions of Florida, every new tree or bush, which attracted our attention by its beauty, or its oddity, every new species of fruit, which charmed our palate with its originality of flavor, made us more in love with this interesting country, and wish that it and its accompaniments could only exist in a colder climate. There was but one feeling in the minds of the party on leaving Mr. Hart's plantation, which was that each of us could own an orange grove, and have it close at home. One evening as we were returning after a sailing excursion to visit the neighborhood, we heard cries which sounded like cries of distress. The negroes were so in the habit of laughing at, and jibing one another, that we at first took no notice of these. It was nearly night, so dark, that objects could not be distinguished at any considerable distance; but the cries continuing, we determined to see whether they meant merely fun or something more serious, and kept away in the direction from which they came. That moment's delay cost at least one man his life, and brought sorrow to one household. After sailing a few minutes, we were able to distinguish an object in the water, which looked like a boat capsized. Such it turned out to be, and as we approached, we could make out a number of men clinging to its sides. It was a launch belonging to the crew of a steam ferry boat, and was used by the men after their day's work was over to take them across the riv- er, as they left the steamer on the other side. It was abundantly able to carry the number that started in 70 IN FLORIDA. it, and more, but some of them had been pouring out libations to Bacchus, or had been carried away by foolish animal spirits, we could not exactly deter- mine which, and the result was, that the party of merry-makers was suddenly turned into one of mourners. We luffed up alongside, and lay to, while our men lowered the boats, and picked up all the poor fellows who were left. Two were unaccounted for, one of whom had been seen to let go his hold and sink. Sev- eral of the others would haye soon followed his exam- ple, except for our timely arrival, for the water hap- pened to be cool that evening, and quickly benumb- ed their warm southern blood, although they were whites, and not blacks, as we at first supposed. Af- ter they were all on board, and it was apparent that there was no use in looking for their lost comrades, we hitched a line to their boat, and towed it behind us towards the shore. As the men crowded on our deck, they seemed so miserable, and did so tremble with the cold, that the hearts of the ladies were touched, and nothing would do but they must be brought into the cabin, and warmed at the stove, there being not room enough for so many in the fore- castle. Their clothes dripped and drained over our pretty carpet, and left stains, which never were to come out, but we felt only too glad that we had been able to be of some use to any of our fellow " toilers of the sea." We finally warmed their blood, and put fresh life into them with liberal rations of rum, which was fifty years old. Amid their sufferings what caused IN FLORIDA. 71 them the most pain, was, that they would have to tell the wife of the engineer, who was lost, of his death. This they dreaded as much as they would have dreaded another struggle in the water. There is often danger from the heavy fogs, which roll up dense, and dark on the St. John's in the night time, and we saw several accidents from that cause. We took the precaution of always anchor- ing, when not in port, on some flat, and making sure of a well filled anchor light. The steamers invariably follow the channel, for their own protec- tion, and the pilots run at full speed, as in that way alone can they be sure of their position, a knowledge which comes to them by habit. There was, how- ever, one annoyance, which no lights would pre- vent, no mosquito nets keep out, and no preparation mitigate, the plague of gnats; they come, when they make up their minds to come, in myriads, pour down the companion way, preferring the inside of the cabin to the outside, make themselves at home, push into the state-rooms, and do not care in the least how many millions of their number you immolate. I had been advised that insect powder, if burned in the cabin, would drive them out. On their first visitation I tried the remedy. It is to be feared that the heartless person who gave me that recipe was a practical joker. There is nothing in the nature of gnats to specially provoke merriment so far as I could ever see, or feel, but there are persons who ex- tract pleasure from a funeral. I placed a small quan- tity of the powder on apiece of paper, which I light- 72 IN FLOKIDA. ed. The paper was soon consumed, but the powder remained intact, in fact it preserved that part of the paper, which was directly under it. Then I added some chips, and laying the whole on an old plate, tried it again; failure number two, the powder was still unconsumed, and the gnats, who had not neg- lected these opportunities, while I was busy, to pay their respects to me, were as happy and lively as ever. Determined not be foiled, I then built a fire in the stove, and leaving the stove holes open, poured the powder on the flame. In vain, it only put out the fire. After that I lost faith in the virtues of insect powder, and had to endure as well as I could, lamen- tations coming faintly through the doors of the state-rooms "Oh Avhat are these strange things that are biting us so." Patience seems to be the only cure for gnat bites, and we did not carry that article with us. " Doctor," said Mr. Green one morning, after we had spent a couple of weeks in the delightful laziness of sight seeing and curiosity buying, " how much longer do you think the skipper intends to keep us idling here ? " He had devoted his attention lately to dragging the Doctor with him on his inter- viewing expeditions, and they had just returned from their tenth call upon the northern shad fisher- men, who, having brought their nets from their homes to try and catch the earliest run of shad, were camping in the woods beyond the town. "I am afraid," replied our medical associate with base dishonesty, for he was fully as fond of the dolce IN FLORIDA. 73 far niente as myself, " that he intends to remain here for the rest of his natural life." " What, going to stay here for ever!" came from the pretty mouth, which belonged to a pretty head, that just then appeared above the companion way, " I do like to go fishing, and get away from people." " Yes," came faintly from another in the bowels of the cabin, " I am always fond of a change." " We havn't caught a fish since day before yes- terday," continued Seth in a most injured tone of voice. "I should like to catch something beside cat- fish once more." This is the sort of thing that the yachtsman has to bear from his mutinous crew, and there is but one way of dealing with it. I went forward without a word, called my men, and we were underway so soon, that the breath was nearly taken from the party, and I heard low grumblings about provisions, which ought to have been laid in, and curiosities, which were to have been bought, and which never could begot again, for an hour afterwards, as we were rapidly running up the river. The weather had become hot, the thermometer marking eighty-nine in the shade, and mosquitoes made their appearance in the evenings ; for those we were prepared, as the yacht was especially fitted with mosquito screens. But the heat was too much for us, and it was unanimously determined that we must take a bath. We had brought our bathing dresses more by good luck than good management, for we had no expectation of quite so summery a 74 IN FLORIDA. time in the midst of winter. We had been assured that snakes never enter the waters of a sulphur spring, and that there was a sulphur spring at We- laka on our way. So we stopped where we thought it must be according to the chart, and in that in- stance, as in all others, the chart was right. In fact from the beginning of our trip to the end we found ourselves, by the aid of the charts, masters of the situation, and generally much better informed than the natives. We anchored the yacht at the bend of the river just below Welaka, and taking the small boats row- ed into the spring, which was only a hundred yards away. What a glorious sight it was, no puling little affair, such as is called a spring at the North, but a basin two hundred feet across, the water boil- ing up in the centre in a jet as large round as a hogs- head, and rising a foot above the surface, clear as crys- tal, and gleaming like gems, the irridescent waves spreading away from the central source in lines of glistening transparency, the sunlight reflected from every ripple, as from a thousand prisms. Such a perfect bathing spot we had never seen before, it was a bath-room fit for Diana and her nymphs. We had put on our bathing clothes before leaving the yacht, and it took us but a few moments to fasten our boats and plunge overboard. Snakes are one of the drawbacks of this warm tropical State. On some of the keys on the Gulf side, they are so numerous that no man is safe in landing. The most deadly is the rattlesnake, but IN FLORIDA. 75 the most disagreeable is the mocassin, which, al- though not so fatal, sometimes attacks a man in the water without provocation. The latter's bite pro- duces paralysis more frequently than death, but as his attacks cannot be guarded against, he is really a more unpleasant enemy. The traveller's safety in bathing consists in seeking one of these wonderful sulphur springs, into Avhich snakes do not enter, al- though fish abound in them, looking like moving motes in liquid amber. The temperature of these springs is not cold, being the same as that of the rivers, but there is something exceedingly exhilarat- ing in bathing in them. The feeling of the water is different from that of any other bath. There is a peculiar sense of cleanliness, and a lightness of spir- its, which may account for the fancy of Ponce de Leon, that he had at last found the source of eternal youth. Many of these springs are brought within the destructive dominion of man, and are open to every passing tourist, but the one where we were Avas sa- cred to him, who has his own conveyance, and was not to be defiled or polluted by the common way- farer. We had a delightful bath. There is a common delusion that the water of the sulphur springs is so thin and light, that it will not support the best swimmer. We soon ascertained that this was a to- tally unfounded fancy, so far as the Welaka spring was concerned. We not only swam to and fro without difficulty, but enjoyed an additional pleas- ure in getting directly over the boiling spout itself, 4 76 IN FLORIDA. and being buoyed up by it, where the water was ten feet deep. All of us were sorry, when evening and hunger compelled us to return to the yacht. The stories concerning the dangerous nature of the snakes of Florida are probably exaggerated, as we saw no more of them, than we would have seen in the same amount of country life at the North. The negro children bathe off the docks of Pilatka and Jacksonville as a common thing, and later in the year, when the peril from snakes is greater. There are spots, where, as I have said, they are to be dread- ed, and we heard well authenticated stories of men being snake bitten, but on the other hand old hun- ters, who were in the woods most of their time, told us they were never troubled by their attacks, and the camping out parties, which we encountered all over, seemed not disturbed by them. Still, while on the subject, I will give the prescription which was kindly furnished us by Dr. Ken worthy of Jack- sonville, and which will doubtless prove a better cure than the common one of getting drunk on whiskey; mix two tablespoonfuls of the carbonate of ammonia with enough spirits of camphor to make a paste. Apply this on a rag to the bite, changing the rag as often as it gets discolored. Our medical as- sociate gave his approval to the remedy, and if those two authorities could not cure a snake bite, no one can. As our little yacht shot out from the St. John's River, nearly two hundred miles above the place where we had entered it, and came into full view of 1ST FLOEIDA. 7? that beautiful sheet of water, Lake George, thous- ands of wild ducks rose three gunshots off, and flew away. The sight rejoiced our eyes, for we had pass- ed several days on the river without seeing any large hirds except the strange water-turkeys, or snake- birds. Unfortunately we had no battery with us, and had to trust to finding a point of land that the ducks would approach. This was no easy thing to do, and we sailed half the length of the north shore, before reaching a promising spot, a narrow point running out between two bays, and at the outer end of which the birds were crowded toge'ther in flocks of thousands. There was nothing to be done till the next morning, and seeing a farm house on the neck of land, Mr. Seth Green went ashore to get what information he could from the owner. This gentleman was at the moment working in his garden, and although the thermometer stood at eighty in the shade, he wore the encumbrance of a pair of long India rubber boots. As these seemed rather out of accord with the torrid temperature, he was delicately asked his reasons for wearing them; "well," he replied philosophically, "they cannot strike over those." This sounded ominously, for although, as I have said, we had heard a good deal about snakes, we had seen nothing of them yet. Our doubts were removed when the gentleman pointed out an immense dead rattlesnake hanging on the limb of a bush, and added, " I killed him yes- terday." We returned promptly to the yacht, con- tented to make our explorations by water thereaf- ?8 IH FLORIDA. ter, till we should get over the effect of so sudden an introduction to a new acquaintance. Next day we devoted to the ducks, but we were not properly rigged for them, and soon learned that without a battery we could not expect to kill many in the wide waters of Lake George, they were most- ly broad-bills, but did not seem to be as healthy as our Northern ducks. One of my men, who was an old gunner, said that their feathers appeared to be burnt, as though they had been scorched by the sun. They are continually chased by all the visit- ors to Florida, silly shooters, who fire at them from every passing steamboat, or who pursue them in the small steam yachts, which are becoming a feature of Southern travel. The day following, we sailed across the lake to the south-west corner, intending to as- cend the Juniper Creek, which empties into it there. Mr. Green and myself were all of the party who cared to make the exploration; we took one of the small boats, and struck into the outlet, which we had found without difficulty and commenced the as- cent. It was a strange, desolate river, quite unlike our Northern streams, slow and sluggish most of the way, half grown up with grasses, weeds, and cabbage plants, lined on either side by a rank, tall mass of reeds, that were yellow with age, and approaching decay, overhung here and there by some Southern plants or bushes, and once in a while winding be- tween groves of palmettos. There was a sombre, savage, and deadly appearance in the water itself. We proceeded quietly for a time, but Mr. Green, IN FLORIDA. 79 who is more alive to the contents of a stream than to its air of gloom or brightness, broke the silence. " Now," he said, as lie began setting up his rod, " I will show you my favorite rig for catching big- mouthed bass. Look at that trolling spoon, it is something of my own invention, although the tackle shops are getting them lately." He had a special arrangement of feathers and tin, not be described on paper, but long experience has made me skeptical about new all-killing inventions, and possibly my countenance betrayed my thoughts, for he went on, as he saw me getting out a cast of bass flies. " I know" he observed, throwing his lure over- board, "that other rigs will take some, but you see now, I shall have one within a minute." I had no choice, as I was seated in the bow of the boat, and could not have used a trolling spoon if I had wished, as our lines would have fouled. I had to put on flies and fish by casting. " That is all very well," I replied, " at certain times, and in a stream like this, but if we had a large, deep river, I would rather use a number of flies on a long leader." " There," said Mr. Green at that moment as he struck a fish, " what did I tell you. If you want to take black-bass, particularly this kind He never finished his observation, for at that mo- ment a four-pound fish seized my fly, and it took our joint skill and attention to keep from fouling. He managed, however, to get his fish in quickly, as 1ST FLORIDA. it was a small one, and give me an opportunity to play mine with the light tackle that I was using. We saved them both, but they were only the fore- runners of an unlimited number. The spoon did undoubtedly kill the most, but there were all that we both wanted, ten times over, and we had to stop fishing, to avoid destroying more than we could use. I had the satisfaction of catching the largest, how- ever, with the fly. We had brought a gun, as well as our fishing tackle. Suddenly from out the bushes there rose with much noise and flurry a large bird. I had hardly time to grab my gnn, before he was out of range, and although I fired, it was ineffectually. " Oh, I am sorry you missed him," said Mr. Green sadly, for he always takes a dejected view of other people's failures, " that was a Limpkin, and I should like to have got him.'' "I thought it was a water turkey," I replied, re- ferring to the queer creature that we had seen on ever stick and stump in the St. John's. " But what- ever it was, it was out of range when I fired." " I think he was a Limpkin," persisted my com- panion, '' don't you, Charley?" The stream was becoming rapidly narrower, and as that made the fishing more difficult, and we had all the fish we wanted, AVC took in our lines. Soon Charley had to cease rowing and resort to poling. , We finally came to where it was so narrow that there was scarcely room for the boat, and the over- hanging branches and bushes swept against our IK FLOKIDA. 81 faces. We were just about to give up any idea of further advance, when suddenly we shot out from the small brook into a broad river. Instead of having ascended to the head Avaters ef the Juniper, we had hardly been in it at all, having mistaken one of its mouths for the stream proper. The hour was growing late, but this new river seemed so attractive, we were so sure that it was the one we had been looking for, and that it must lead into the lake not far from where we had left our yacht, that we determined to descend it instead of retracing our course by the way we had come. Here it was that I fired at and wounded a real Limpkin, as I have already related. We went down with the cur- rent, having in the broad stream a good chance to use the oars. The sun dropped behind the trees, which were more mimerous on the banks of this stream than they had been on those of the other. On and on, and still we did not come to the outlet. It began to look as though we had made a mistake, and this river was a different one from what we had supposed. The prospect of spending the night in the woods now forced itself upon us. My coat was thin, and already the evening air felt chill ; we could make a fire, for we were too old stagers to be caught without matches, but the thought of snakes was not pleasant, in spite of the assurances of their rarity, and the excellence of our antidote. Charley had been rowing a long time and was getting tired, so I offered to ' ' spell " him. This I did till the sun had gone entirely and darkness was 82 IN" FLOKIDA. closing in upon us fast. J3till no signs of the lake, or of an end to this apparently endless river. Strange noises rang through the forest, cries like those of wild beasts, but such as we had never heard before, often as we had passed the night in the woods. I recalled what I had read of -the puma, the dreaded Southern tiger, and realized the fact that against him number four duck shot would be a feeble defence. The noises grew louder and louder, the forests fairly reverberated with the unearthly screams till, when one more than usually horrible burst upon our ears, Mr. Green inquired with a composure, which seemed slightly assumed : " What sort of an animal do you think it is that makes a noise like that ? " I had never heard anything so appalling in my life before, but was not to be outdone by my asso- ciate in coolness, and, replied in a hollow mockery of jest: "That ? Oh, that is a Limpkin. There can be no doubt of that." To this reply Mr. Green made no direct response, though his face intimated that jokes on some occa- sions were out of place. The unnatural stillness of the country made these noises perhaps more ominous and unearthly. There was not a breath of air to stir the trees, no ripple or current to the stream which might have diverted our thoughts by its musical babble, and deathlike silence hung over the land, except when broken by the ringing screams. The night was getting darker and darker, I]ST FLORIDA. 83 and at last we came reluctantly to the conclusion that we had better stop, in order to prepare our camp and make sure that there were no rattlesnakes while there was light enough to do so. " Let us go to the next turn," said Seth, who had even a greater dislike than the rest of us to spending the night in the woods. "If we do not see any signs of an outlet there we may as well give it up." "Agreed," I replied, as I bent once more to the oars, " let us keep up hope." AVe proceeded, but with little expectation of any good results. What was our surprise and joy then, on reaching the point, to behold the broad waters of the lake spread out before us, and the Heartsease lying in full view with her light up. The sight gave me such vigor that I rowed the rest of the way, although Charley announced that he was rested and wanted to take the oars. In spite of the beauty of the country, there is a sense of desolation about the wilder parts of Florida. The great trees, covered with moss, and many of them going to decay ; the dull, sluggish rivers with slow discolored current, the low lands never rising above a shell-mound of twenty feet height, combine to produce a feeling of dreary solitude. This was particularly noticeable on the journey to and from Florida, through the endless swamps, marshes, and reedy islands, which border the narrow inland pas- sages, and was only occasionally broken by passing a town, or one of the few country seats that are to 84 Ltf FLOHIDA. be found on the unhealthy shores. Nor do there seem to be many water fowl on the Southern Atlantic Coast, until you pass to the south of St. Augustine and reach the neighborhood of Indian River. In making the trip to and from the St. John's, we only saw, beside the ducks and English snipe the bay- birds, of which I have spoken, and -a number of the handsome and imposing white herons. These stood in solemn grandeur on the shore of some creek, and seemed too glorious to shoot. Occasion- ally, however, we could not resist, and had to mur- der them for their loveliness. Then one of us would hide himself among the reeds on the shore, while the other would go to the extreme end of the line of stately creatures, and put them up. They fly slowly along the edge of the water, and if the sportsman is well hid, there is no difficulty in get- ting a shot at them. They should never be killed, unless it is to set them up and preserve them, us was done for us by the Doctor. In Lake George there were millions of mullets jumping continually out of water, like dancing sil- ver arrows, they would not take the fly, or trolling spoon, and as we had all the fish we could use, we did not try the net. We visited a splendid spring, called by a name which seems to be given by com- mon consent to most of the sulphur springs of Flor- ida, that of " silver." It empties into the lake on the western side, about half way down. A bank of snail shells, which must have been cast up by the waves, marks the outlet. Many of them are in good WILD TUKKEY TJ4AJ' IN FLORIDA. 87 preservation, and quite pretty. Several sorts of fish were swimming hither and thither in the spring, and the stream from it was filled with a thin green moss, which the ladies converted into a becoming head covering, and dubbed the "mermaid's wig." We saw some big turtles and alligators and enjoyed a bath. It was not safe to take the yacht through the nar- row and crooked river above Lake George, if we were to limit ourselves in the remotest degree to time, for none but free winds would move us either one way or the other, so we had to leave our pleasant aquatic mansion and descend to the humdrum of the little stern wheel steamers, which were continually pass- ing us, and tin-owing up fountains of water from their latter ends. By the same means we explored the Ocklawaha, which falls into the St. John's fur- ther north. The vessels are adapted to winding round through the circuitous bends of the streams, where the trees nearly meet overhead. In order to see their way, the pilots have to build fires of pine knots at night on the top of the pilot house, which gives a peculiarly romantic and interesting appear- ance to the scene. On the way we saw no end of al- ligators and forest birds, especially the famous Limp- kin, which laughed, yelled and jeered at us in the security of a regulation which forbids the discharge of fire arms on board the boats. But we had to be getting back, if we were to com- plete our explorations of the rest of Florida, so as soon as we could finish our steamboat travel, we hurried 88 IK FLORIDA. down stream once more to Jacksonville. The run outside to St. Augustine is not a long one, but this coast is more dangerous than that further north. An easterly wind strikes it more heavily, and the inlets are shoal. Especially is this the case in the long run below Matanzas and Mosquito Inlets. In fact I cannot do better than quote the words of a report on the inland navigation of that section, kindly furnished me by Mr. J. E. Hilgard, the effi- cient Superintendent of the United States Coast Sur- vey, to whom I am under many obligations for in- formation and advice: "There is no inland passage from the St. John's to St. Augustine. You must cross St. John's bar (with eight feet mean low water), but must take a pi- lot, as the channel is constantly shifting and chang- ing in depth. On the Avhole, I would advise taking a smooth time at St. Mary's and going outside all the way to St. Augustine. There is excellent anchorage off Old Fernandina (but a short distance from the bar); and the whole run is but about fifty miles, and can be made in a few hours. " When off St. Augustine, a pilot will take you up to the town. There is nine feet on the bar, but it constantly shifts. The famous * fresh water springs ' in the ocean are situated eight miles S. by E half E. from the < entering buoy ' of this inlet. ''Bound to the southward, Matanzas River carries you from St. Augustine through a distance of nearly thirteen miles to Matanzas Inlet. The channel is winding, but has deep water for a little over seven Itf FLOKIDA. 89 miles, where there is a seven-feet bar. Below this, for nearly two miles, five feet is the least water, in a crooked channel close under the eastern bank. Thence are depths varying from nine to tAventy feet until Matanzas Inlet is reached. The route to the southward leads across this inlet with seven feet at mean low water; and on entering the river again, on the south side of the inlet, you will have but six feet. Matanzas River heads in the midst of extensive marshes between five and six miles to the southward of the inlet; and but two feet can be carried through. ' ' Beyond this there is no navigation. Wishing to proceed still farther southward, you must retrace your course to Matanzas Inlet, cross the bar and skirt the Florida coast for about fifty miles to Mos- quito Inlet. Your pilot (for you must have ob- tained one at St. Augustine or you cannot enter at all) will take you over the bar with about six feet at mean low water the mean rise and fall being two feet. Once in the inlet you may go to the north- ward, through Halifax River to its head, twenty miles above. "While in the narrow passage, which extends from Mosquito Inlet for over five miles to the northward, you will carry not less than ten feet; but when the river expands you will find shoal water the depths varying from three to nine feet, except in occasional deep holes. The channel is very nar- row, and can only be followed by the stakes. The small settlements of Port Orange and Daytona are situated on the western bank of this river. Three feet at mean low water can be taken to its head, but 90 EN" FLORIDA. there is no lunar tide after you get above the influ- ence of the inlet the rise and fall being governed solely by the winds. " Going southward from Mosquito Inlet you enter Hillsborough Eiver ; which, through a winding course between fifteen and sixteen miles long, brings you into Mosquito Lagoon, twelve miles to the southward of the inlet. Two miles and a half up Hillsborough River is New Smyrna, a pretty little settlement on the western bank among orange, fig and banana trees. Nine feet may be taken to abreast of the village; not less than five feet is found or five miles beyond New Smyrna; but above that point no more than three feet can be carried through to Mosquito Lagoon; although there are deep holes with as much as three and a half fathoms. The channel is narrow and very crooked. "Mosquito Lagoon is wide and shallow its width ranging from one to two and a half miles. It has a general course about S. E. by S.,and is between fif- teen and sixteen miles long. A bar of three and a half feet obstructs the entrance from Hillsborough Eiver; but, that once crossed, a good channel, with from five to ten feet takes you to within two miles of its head. This terminates the inland navigation, unless the vessel be able to pass through ' Haul-over Canal.' There is but a foot and a half water in this canal. " Indian Eiver maybe entered from seaward by In- dian Eiver Inlet, which cuts through the sandy strip of coast-line about one hundred miles to the south- IK FLORIDA. 91 ward of Mosquito Inlet and sixty miles below Cape Canaveral. I would not advise a small vessel to attempt to navigate this coast; as it is very dangerous should the wind come to the eastward (which it often does in this vicinity), and there is no shelter except the precarious anchorage under Canaveral. The bar at Indian Kiver inlet has seven feet over it at low wa- ter, but shifts constantly in both depth and position, and can only be crossed in the smoothest weather. Besides the bar there is an ' Inner Bulkhead ' so called, over which there is but four feet. It is said by the natives, however, that by taking what is called the Blue Hole Passage, five feet to five and a half may be taken safely into the river." The fishing at St. Augustine, which is a quaint old town, said to be the oldest in America, and well worth a visit in itself, is better during the winter months than any to be had north of it. Plenty of boatmen can be hired who will pilot the stranger to the best spots. Around here the foliage becomes still more tropical. The frost will occasionally penetrate, and the most famous oranges are to be grown only still further South, on the shell ham- macks of the Indian and Banana Kivers, where single trees bear as many as six thousand of these golden fruit each. But we were actually tired of fishing, and looked 011 complacently with the pity- ing superiority of accomplished success at the patient anglers, trying their best to kill a few in- offensive finny creatures off the bridge, across the St. Sebastian River, or bringing triumphantly 32 Iff- FLORIDA. home in the native's "dug out,'' the proceeds of a day's hard work on the bay. The Doctor was especially indifferent, and excited universal envy when he told of the wondrous sport we had had during our two months of recreation. While I do not for a moment intend to impugn his absolute veracity, some of the adventures which he related had passed from my memory or had grown since I heard them last. He would make no more violent sporting effort than repeating these tales, and preferred to sit on a chair upon the plaza, re- tailing them, with the encouragement of a sour orange punch, or wander through the coquina built Fort Marion, visit the old Cathedral, or roam the narrow streets. We laid in a supply of native pre- serves, sketched the graceful date palm, and never ceased wondering at the odd and extravagant beauty of the semi-equatorial foliage and plants. There is interesting, although not very extensive sailing in the harbor, and many varieties of bay snipe to be killed. A yachting club, which will show every courtesy to brethren from the North, has a boat house on the shore. The further one goes South the better the shoot- ing and fishing become, and I would advise any one, who feels as if it were impossible ever to get enough of either, not to stop in the St. John's, or short of St. Augustine. There he can spend several weeks profitably, and should thence go on South to Halifax Elver and New Smyrna, where he will think nothing of catching a hundred sheepshead in a day. IN FLORIDA. 93 no tiny fellows either, but weighing from six to ten pounds a piece, or half as many channel bass of fifteen to twenty pounds each, together with as many sharks thrown in as he has stomach or tackle for. By the way, I forgot to mention that among our outfit was a couple of shark hooks and a line of a hundred fathoms, as thick as the little finger, all of which did good but rather brutal service. Back of New Smyrna, the woods are full of venison and bear meat, turkeys, and other feathered game. The best duck shooting is in the southern part of the lagoon or river, but the bars and beaches everywhere are alive with bay snipe, herons, cranes, pelicans, and a thousand smaller birds. But a truce to this everlasting repetition of sport, which was growing monotonous even to Mr. Green's insatiable sporting appetite, and turn to something pleasanter. The royal lady of the house had resolved to give us such a feast as we had not had before. The supplies laid in at St. Augustine enabled her to carry out her idea, but the selection of the day and date for the event was a mystery. I supposed it must have been to celebrate my birthday, which, it is true, had come and gone six months before ; but as it had not yet been kept, needed commemoration as badly as though it had never taken place at all. No matter what was the moving inducement, the banquet was worthy of it. We men had been smuggled out of the way while the preparations were being made, so that, while we had a general idea of the drift of things, we had no conception 94 Itf FLORIDA. of the gorgeousness of the result. It was not a feast fit for a king merely, but a sufficient banquet had all the gods been invited. There were raw oysters, two kinds of fish, sheepshead boiled, and channel bass baked, chicken soup, and turtle soup, from turtle caught on the spot, roast wild turkey, and boiled mutton, scalloped oysters, venison, and wild ducks, bay snipe, potato salad, peas, tomatoes, beans, and baked sweet potatoes, while for dessert there was such an array of goodies, that the room in my log book was in danger of running short, and I could only record a few, such as fresh cake, straw- berries, spiced figs, and all the preserves and spiced fruits that the table would hold, closing with cheese and coffee. The only wonder was, that after such a dinner to which our appetites and our loyalty both pressed us to do more than ample justice, anv of the party survived. If you have doubts of our state of minds and bodies, go on a three months' cruise and wind up with such a dinner, and "you will know how it is yourself." Of all places on the eastern shore of Florida, the Indian and Banana Eivers are the most delight- ful and interesting. Here, when you are once in- side the bar, which, as I have said, is a little peril- ous, there is room and occupation for a winter. The salt water fishing is mainly near the inlet, but in the tributary streams is an unlimited supply of the fresh water varieties. The sailing is splendid, and the climate, except for its warmth, delicious. By the time the reader peruses these pages, it is IN" FLORIDA. 95 probable that inland communication will have been opened with the Indian River, either by the " Haul- over/' which in the year 1882 was only twelve feet wide and one foot and a half deep, or from the St. John's, by the way of Lake Washington; and that there will be finished another canal from Indian Eivcr to Lake Worth and Biscayne Bay, making a safe and easy passage round the keys to the Gulf side. This was to have been done when we were there, and if not yet finished, soon will be. Then if the sportsman is not yet satiated, or if he is suffering from consumption, and wishes to re- gain his health, he can make the grandest trip in the world, by either sending his yacht to Jackson- ville, or to Cedar Keys, or buying one there, and spending the entire winter in the exploration of the southern part of Florida. As it is, the voyage from the Indian Eiver is not difficult or dangerous. Numerous keys or islands make a shelter from the seas, and once on the G-ulf side, the climate, the country, the water, everything is delightful. Storms are rare, the Gulf is generally smooth, harbors are numerous, and the shooting is unsurpassed by any in the world. If the sportsman does not take his own vessel, he can go by railroad directly to Cedar Keys, and thence take what conveyance he prefers farther south. At Cedar Keys small sail boats, suitable to those shallow waters, can be hired, as well as guides, if they are needed. To enjoy a visit to Florida in its full scope and meaning, and to make it an expedition never to be forgotten, make up a 96 IK FLORIDA. pleasant party, hire a sailing vessel, and her master as pilot, and coast along from Cedar Keys in water mostly not more than two feet deep, between forests of primeval wildness, in company with countless water-fowl and over unnumbered fish, taking toll from turkey, bear, and alligator, as you go. Sail around the Gulf shore and Cape Sable, and finally up the eastern shore of Florida, into the Indian Eiver. Eemain there till your heart is glutted with sport, and your palate with fruit, and thence return to the North by rail or boat. Such a trip makes a date of delight in one's life. On the Gulf side the most interesting spots are the rivers which flow into the sea, the Caloosahatchee, Crystal and Hamosassa, all of them full of fish and game. Alligators, the sport of killing which is in- deed more to be honored in the breach than in the observance, are so abundant as to be almost trouble- some. The only difficulty with Florida is that the sport is excessive, and that any one except sporting gourmands will get tired of it. Even Mr. Green, who, as I have said, is almost insatiable, became surfeited, the Doctor and myself being long before content. The voyager, whether by sea or land, must bring cer- tain books with him, such as will not so much help him pass the time, as assist him in his researches. He will find a thousand things to amuse and occupy his hours, but Avill need information which he can not obtain on the ground. The vast and quaint variety of shells which he will pick up, the new and curious birds and fish he will kill, but above all, the strange IK FLORIDA. 97 mass of tropical flowers, plants, and trees, which he will meet at every foot of the route, require to appre- ciate them not only all the books which have been written specially on this portion of our country, but a well selected assortment of popular botanical and conchological works, and ichthyological also, if he is not up in that subject. There is no shooting and little fishing directly around Cedar Keys, where the wayfarer doth very much abound, but some twenty miles south Colonel Wingate keeps a sportsman's hotel, and he can en- sure the land traveller a good time, without separa- tion from his family for an extended period. His plaoe is at Gulf Hammock, and to reach it, the sportsman leaves the cars at the station just short of Cedar Keys. From his house parties are made up to explore the waters further south with the aid of boats and guides. I mention his place because he is well known to many of my Northern readers. I have spoken mostly of the coast shooting, be- cause it was what we mainly had in view in our trip, but it must not be imagined that it is the only kind of sport to be had. We took no dogs, but meeting a party of Northern sportsmen at Gaines- ville, we tried the quail. The sport was magnifi- cent, with a single drawback. There was no trouble in killing seventy-five birds to three guns, and sev- eral times the bag exceeded a hundred, once reach- ing a hundred and six ; but the weather was so hot that it did not seem like quail shooting, and the true exhilaration of the sport, as we Northerners 98 I1ST FLORIDA. know it, was lost. Deer ore plenty everywhere, but to hunt them to any advantage, you must put your- self under the guidance of the native hunters. We only tried it once, and then could use but a small part of our venison on account of the heat of the feather. Bears are occasionally shot ; we did not see any, probably because we were not looking for them, and if any one has the patience, he_can kil wild turkeys. Good water-fowl shooting is also to be had on the uplands in any of the ^numerable lakes which dot Florida from one end to the other if they are not too near civilization. A very capital house was kept by a former employee of Delmonico at a town called Waldo, where inland sport of all kinds could be had in reasonable amounts. It seems almost invidious to specify particular places as so far as I could judge, there' was shooting and i everywhere off the regular beaten track of tourists. , "Doctor," remarked Mr. Green with a quiet sub- dued intonation which long practice enabled me to recognize as malice aforethought, "Do you know what bird I prefer to eat?" I should presume from your past actions, re plied the learned gentleman thus addressed, '' of all the birds, which swim, fly, or have feathers, you give a decided preference to broiled duck. -Especially," I interposed, in order to head off the coming attack if possible, provided that the duck is cooked over an open fire in the cabin when the rest of the party are at breakfast." < Broiled duck is good," Mr. Green responded, n: IN FLORIDA. 99 crushed, " if unreasonable people do not deprive it of its natural flavor by complaining of the manner in which it is cooked. But there is a better bird than even a wild duck." "Yes," said the doctor, "there's the woodcock, but what is the use of exciting our minds, and ag- gravating our palates by referring to abstractions, which cannot be realized as there are no woodcock in Florida?" " There is a good bird in Florida, the very one I refer to, and which could bo killed, if a person was allowed to stop on hour or two and not be kept for- ever on the move like the wandering Jew, "persisted Mr Green, cocking back his chair on its hind legs, a favorite position of his, although he had already re- duced two of them to kindling wood by the operation. "You don't mean bay snipe!" exclaimed the doc- tor in a disgusted tone, "we have had enough of them." " He probably alludes to water- turkey," I observ- ed quietly, "he has tasted every thing else." " I don't mean water-turkey either, although for all you can tell it may be a good bird to eat. I mean turkey without the water." With that he brought the front legs of his chair to their natural position with a thud that shook the deck. "Turkey," shouted the doctor with enthusiasm, " just talk turkey to me, tell me where and when and how. I would swim ashore, if there was a chicken much more a turkey in sight, or the hut of a darkey, who might have either to sell." 100 IN FLORIDA. " Well then suppose we go ashore and kill one/"' remarked Seth with quiet complacency, as though such a feat were the simplest everday occurrence cf life. That settled it. " Oh dear, I should so like a piece of turkey" came from the cabin. " Yes, I am so tired of fish," was was the chorussed approval, and although I felt assured that, strangers as we were to the country, and without a guide accustom- ed to the work, there would be no chance of success, I had to give in and come to anchor. Mr. Green got out his rifle, and the doctor his breech-loader, taking a dozen cartridges loaded with buck- shot. Our head man Charley was to accom- pany them, while I remained in charge of the yacht. None of us knew by experience much of the habits of turkeys, and as it was still early in the day it was determined to start at once, and return again on the following morning if it should be deemed ad visible. " Now," said the doctor, "if we only had a tur- key call, we would be sure to succeed." " Can you use the call?" I inquired. " Oh no," he answerd promptly, " but I dare say Mr. Green can." Seth said nothing when I looked at him for a re- sponse, leaving me to imply what I pleased as to his accomplishments. I had suddenly remembered that I had one aboard among some old shooting traps which had been thrown in together as a sort of refuse addition. Being perfectly confident that neither of the turkey hunters could use the " strange IJf FLORIDA. 101 device," it was with a malicious pleasure that I went below, and after a short search found it. An odd- looking affair it was, which I had once been able to use, but time had utterly obliterated the recollection of the way to manage it. At one end was a piece of bone about four inches long with a hole through it, and a larger mouthpiece of wood at the other. Blow- ing through it had no effect whatever, as I had previously found out, and the memory of the proper labial pucker had passed from my mind and my lips. I handed it calmly to the doctor without a word. He held it in his hand regarding it with puzzled un- certainty, evidently to make up his mind, which end was to go in his mouth, till noticing the knob on the smaller, he correctly concluded that that was the part to blow through, and applied it to his lips. Then he blew, at first mildly, producing no result other than a gentle hissing of air; he increased the force, the hissing was louder, but that was all, no sound which by the most vigorous imagination could be construed into the cluck of a gobbler issued. He next tried to pucker up his lips like the trum- peter breathing into his trumpet, but with worse effect if possible than before. Dismayed at his fu- tile efforts, he gazed critically into the end as though some of "Wie machinery must have been lost, but finding nothing to encourage such a supposition, gave up the attempt and held it out to Mr. Green, who had been watching the operation with interest. The latter gentleman was not to be caught, and waving it indifferently aside said with admirable assurance: 102 1ST FLOEIDA. " We won't need that, turkeys are too plenty, all we shall have to do will be to keep our eyes open to kill as many as we want. " In that happy state of confidence they departed. We were anchored some little distance from the shore on account of the shallowness of the water, but I thought I heard several shots and wondered what they had found to fire at, as the probability of their killing a turkey was too slight to be worth consider- ing. Early in the afternoon they returned with an air of curious self gratulation in their behavior, the manner of persons who had done an act on which they plumed themselves, but which would bear a good deal of concealment. This was noticeable even before they had reached the yacht, and prepared me in a measure for what followed the production of a fine fat gobbler from the stern of the boat. Char- ley handed it up to me with an air of deprecation quite in contrast to the truculence with which Seth climbed on deck and exclaimed : " There, what did I tell you, are you satisfied now ? Where would the supplies come from to keep us alive, except for me. You would have had us down to hard tack and salt junk long ago, if it hadn't been for the fish and birds I have had to kill." Have you anything to say against that? " I was examining the turkey critically. I had heard of turkey pens, and suspected that this came from one of them, but did not see how to prove the fact. Its head had been shot nearly off. " That is where the ball hit him, and I call it a IK FLOEIDA. 103 pretty good shot at twenty rods," continued Mr. Green, referring to the wounded spot. "Was he as far off as that?" I inquired, as I handed him over to be picked. I was not familiar enough with a trapped turkey to detect the deceit if there was any, and Seth, seeing my inability, made the most of it. " What is to be our reward for the hard work we have been doing ? I tell you it is no easy thing to stalk a turkey, and if any other of the party had done as much, I wouldn't grudge them the nicest sour orange punch that could be made." Turkeys are caught in parts of the country by a curious trap or pen, and I had heard that such a pen was used in Florida. It is built of logs on the four sides and over the top, a hole being left at one side just large enough to allow the bird to enter in a stooping posture. Corn is strewed on the ground leading to this hole, and scattered about so as to at- tract attention, and the way the trap works is this: the turkey finds the food and follows it, picking up grain after grain, keeping his head bent down, and in that posture enters the pen without trouble. There he remains without a suspicion of wrong till he has consumed all the corn. After the food so kindly supplied is gone, he begins to think of mov- ing on, when to his surprise he discovers that man rarely does any favor without expecting a return, no less in this case than the toothsome body of the re- cipient. The turkey never stoops, even to save his life, he looks upward and not downward, he will not bow 104 IN FLORIDA. his royal head to escape by the road through which he entered. Becoming alarmed he springs up, dash- ing himself against the logs, he thrusts his head be- tween the crevices and tries to fly through the roof by main force, but in vain, the pen is too strong, and the only method of escape which is open he will not condescend to take. The owner of such a pen does not visit it regularly, and the turkeys are often shut up in it for days, frequently falling a prey to wild cats that find them before their lawful proprietor comes to claim them. My unholy suspicions were that the doctor, the Su- perintendent of the New York Fishery Commission, and the captain of the yacht Heartsease had acci- dentally found such a pen, and acted the part of the wild cat. For although I could see nothing suspic- ious about the bird, it was strange that persons who had stalked a wild turkey through a dense Southern forest hardly seemed to be tired, and wished to sit up half the night to smoke and talk. Still the bird proved to be delicious, and the entire party were grateful for him whether honestly obtained or not, so little does hunger weigh questions of morality. Two days after the turkey adventure, when we were sailing along before a mild breeze, Mr. Green steering, the doctor smoking, and the rest of us read- ing, Charley suddenly called out from forward where he was standing: (i Look at that large bird flying over the woods to the west." We all looked in the direction indicated, and saw Itf FLORIDA. 105 an immense bird moving grandly and steadily, with slowly beating wings and extended neck and legs. "What an enormous creature/' exclaimed one of the ladies. " It must be a rock," chimed in the o'ther. " Here take the stick, while I get the glass," saying which, Mr. Green let go of the tiller, and plunged into the cabin to reappear with the binoc- ular, which he fixed on the wondrous bird. " What do you make out of him?" inquired the doctor, who had forgotten his pipe in the excite- ment till it had gone out. " It is a crane," replied Seth, " but the largest one ever I saw. Charley," he asked our captain, " did you ever see such a crane as that before? " * No, I never did," was the answer. " It must be something of the sort however, from the way it flies and holds its legs." " I wonder whether it can be the whooping crane?" I inquired, " I have heard that they are occasional- ly seen on the coast, although supposed to be more numerous in the interior." "Oh can't you shoot it, what feathers it must have for hats." The origin of this remark was ob- vious. " If you want feathers a yard long! Why it is nearly as large as an ostrich." " Well, don't we use ostrich feathers ? Oh do shoot it, I want some long white feathers. " " It is a little too far off," I replied. "How far?" was the persistent inquiry. 106 IN FLORIDA. " I should say about a mile." " That is the way always," was the disgusted re- sponse, " you pretend to be great sportsmen, but you say every bird we meet is too far off. If I knew how to shoot, I wouldn't be making excuses all the time. If we ever come to Florida again, I hope we will have somebody with us who can hit his mark, and not pretend that every bird is too far off." At this the fair speaker retired below just as the crane disappeared over the distant trees. It was several days after this occurrence that we saw what we took to be another whooping crane standing at the edge of the water, not far from some bushes. He was quite white, and towered up against a back ground of grass and sand-bar till his head seem- ed to come in line with the trees beyond, and his body to be as tall as that of a man. The yacht was slow- ly approaching him by the aid of a light breeze, and Mr. Green was growing more excited the nearer we came. The crane stood motionless, not alarmed at the bigger bird, which was gradually swooping down upon him, and apparently quite tame. Mr. Green had redeemed his reputation with the rifle of late, my sarcasm about the Limpkin, and some ironical allusions from the doctor Lad improv- ed his aim, so that we no longer smiled incredulously when he brought out his rifle. In fact he was a splendid shot, as his innumerable prizes taken at tournaments abundantly proved, but the motion of the yacht had at first unsettled his aim. There was not more than half a mile between us and the bird, IN FLOEIDA. 109 which seemed to loom up higher and higher as we approached. "Hadn't we better make sure of him," asked Seth anxiously," we may never have such another chance. You tell me these cranes are very scarce!" "Perhaps we had," I answered," what do you think we had better do ? " " By all means," interrupted the doctor, who was roused out of his usual equanimity, "let us make every effort to kill him as a specimen. They are exceedingly rare." " If you lay to," replied Seth, " and let Charley row me ashore, I will get behind those bushes, and think I can crawl within range of him." " If you are willing to take the trouble on the chances," I answered. " Do, Mr. Green," begged the ladies both together, their hopes of such feath- ers as had never yet graced bonnet quite carrying them into enthusiasm. Seth did not consider the labor of crawling through the matted dense undergrowth in the hot sun, nor the danger of snakes in the long grass, all that he saw was the immense bird and all that he wanted was to kill it. In a moment he and Charley were off in the boat, and pulling for the shore. Heartsease was luffed up into the wind, and lay motionless on the scarcely ruffled water, contrasting by its apparent indifference with the eager excite- ment of the party on board. We watched the small boat till it reached the bank, and was hastily con- cealed by Charley, while Mr. Green disappeared im- 110 IN FLORIDA. mediately in the bushes. Then we could see noth- ing further except the big bird, which had not been alarmed by the preliminaries, and which there was now every probability would become our prize. The ladies were in their hearts already priding them- selves on the loves of bonnets to which his gorgeous attire was to contribute, the doctor had already dis- sected and stuffed him in imagination, and I was wondering whether he was good to eat. We waited till our patience was more than exhausted. Crawl- ing through the tangled mass of a Southern swamp is no easy matter, and wo could do nothing but watch the imposing bird standing there, un terrified, and as still as though he were a graven image, instead of being a thing of beauty and vitality. Suddenly he gave a great leap into the air, and then fell upon the sand in death throes which had almost ceased before the report of the discharged rifle came booming over the water. In a moment the deceitful calm of the previous moment passed away, we hauled aft our sheets, and swinging round her head, got Heartsease under way. Charley shoved out the dinkey which he had concealed in the bushes, and in another minute Mr. Green pushed his way through the underbrush to the side of his magnificent victim. When our boatman joined him, the two stood for some time gazing at and handling the crane, while we waited impatiently for their return. At last they threw the game, it seemed to us irreverently, into the bottom of the dinkey, and Itf FLORIDA. Ill pushed off. We awaited their approach with eager- ness, arising from the fact that none of us had ever seen the American whooping crane, and were proud of being the participants in the capture of one. The two fortunate sportsmen did not hurry them- selves to gratify our desires, but appeared exceed- ingly at their ease, and it was not till they had nearly arrived that we discovered the cause of their indiffer- ence by perceiving in the boat not a whooping crane at all, but an ordinary white heron. The clearness of the atmosphere, the bright rays of the sun, or the nature of the background had tended to mislead us and had added immensely to the stature of the bird. The ladies retired to the cabin hatless, so to speak, the doctor was for throwing the deceiver over- board instead of skinning him, and to this day I am uncertain as to the taste of the great American whooping crane. The Indian Eiver is so shallow in places, that the direction on the chart of Currituck Sound could be applied to it: " Only three feet of water can be car- ried, and that with difficulty." In other parts it is deeper; it varies in width from one mile to three, and as a general rule where it is narrow, it is deep, and where it is wide, it is shallow. Although it approaches nearly to Mosquito Lagoon, it does not join the latter unfortunately, and a canal has been cut called the Haul-over, of which I have already spoken. In the Haul-over, which is only fourteen feet jvide, there is but one foot and a half of water, and for some distance below not much more than 112 IN" FLORIDA. two. There are many rivers emptying into the Indian River on the west or shore side ; these are generally deep and full of fish, and well repay the explorer. The only inlets are in the southern end, Jupiter Inlet at the lowest extremity, and Indian River Inlet a short distance above. Banana River, which is rather a branch of Indian River than a distinct stream, is in places -broader and deeper ; it connects with the main river at its southern extremity, and by Banana Creek at the northerly end. The creek of the name is both nar- row and shallow, and can only be used by small craft. There is most interesting yachting in the Halifax and Hillsborough, north and south of New Smyrna, which is situated on the Hillsborough, about three miles from Mosquito Inlet, as well as in Mosquito Lagoon, which is reached through a narrow and tortuous channel among innumerable islands from the Hillsborough. So also do the Indian and Banana rivers furnish safe and delightful cruising grounds, with plenty of harbors or shelter for even small open vessels, the only danger being that of running on oyster shoals. A narrow strip of sand separates Indian River from the ocean, and the yachtsman can occasionally, by climbing into the rigging, see the blue waves of the Atlantic. On this bar the bay-birds often collect in large flocks, and may be killed in numbers more than needed. They are of the same kinds which have already been described, and are found in the summer at the North. Bear are occasionally met IN FLOEIDA. 113 with, and now and then a wild-cat; deer are more plentjybut the sportsman will be fortunate if he finds any of these unless he goes especially after them. A yacht-club has been established at New Smyrna, with headquarters in Indian River, where the mem- bers expect to do a large part of their yachting. An excellent choice was made at the first election of officers, and its prospects for introducing the sport into the waters of Florida are promising. The presi- dent is Mr. Herman Oelrichs, and the vice president Mr. Girard Stuyvesant, both of New York. In extended yachting trips there is often trouble in getting fresh water, a difficulty which is increased at the South, where the land is low, and there are none of what at the North would be called springs; the ice-cold jets of water bubbling from the ground. It is not generally known that sand is so effectual a filter, that drinkable water can be obtained by dig- ging down into it almost anywhere. To take ad- vantage of this, and for many other purposes, it is advisable to carry a spade on board. Water so ob- tained may be a little brackish, but by boiling it will be made, if not quite palatable, at least healthy. Rain falling on the deck is apt to take up portions of the paint, infinitesimally small, perhaps, but suf- ficient to give an unpleasant and unhealthy taste. On the western keys a bush with a peculiar rich leaf, easily distinguishable by those who have once seen it, often grows where water is to be found. It would be easy to go on recounting the attrac- 114 IN PLOEIDA. tions of Florida indefinitely; there is always some- thing more to say, a fresh point of interest to speak of, additional beauties to describe, other and still other reasons for visiting this strange and delightful country. There is but one way in which even a slight appreciation of the charms of Florida can be ob- tained; and that is, to go there as often and stay there as long as possible. For health, for recreation, for sport, no place in the world can be compared with it. A vast portion, that of the Everglades, the "Grassy Water" of the native Seminoles, has never been explored, and there are thousands of rivers, lakes, and ponds which have rarely been disturbed by the presence of a white man, and which would amply reward the adventurous spirit who would ex- plore them. When we first arrived in Florida, the flowers, which its name promised us, were not to be seen. Deceived by the temperature and a thermometer that recorded rarely less than eighty degrees, we failed to recognize the season of the year, or recall the truism that, as all nature must have its spring, it must also have its winter. The climate and the foliage were as summer-like as we had ever seen them. The grand orange trees, with their brilliant shining green, flecked with spots of golden yellow, were the most gorgeous sight that our eyes had ever beheld in field or forest. The moss-covered forest' evergreens, although turned slightly brown, were still magnificent in their richness of foliage. There were bare limbs here and there of deciduous trees, IK FLOEIDA. 115 but their nakedness was nearly covered by the un- fading leaves of their neighbors. The shrubs and undergrowth were as bright in hue, seemingly, to our uneducated eyes as possible. But by the time we were leaving, even we could notice a decided change. The green had put on a deeper verdancy, the brown had disappeared, and suddenly there sprang into life a myriad of flowers. The yellow jessamine covered the swamps and filled them with a mass of perfume as well as an array of loveliness. Scarlet lobelias thrust their bright heads boldly from the water-side, along with white lilies and arrow-heads, and on the higher grounds hundreds of wild flowers, many of which we could not name, charmed us with their beauty. The magnificent magnolia was bursting into bud. As the orange trees were being denuded of their ripe fruit, the tiny sweet smelling blossoms made their appearance, till the branches bore at one and the same time, buds, flowers, and green and ripe fruit. The inland lakes and ponds were covered with pond lilies, which are called " bonnets" by the natives, and made a deli- cious picture with the broad green leaves and the bright yellow flowers. Language fails in describing the exquisite beauty of the verdure of the country. "We found Florida laden with fruit ; we left it cov- ered with flowers. CHAPTEE III. CURRITUCK MARSHES. Duck shooting has held its own better than any other kind of sport in the States east of the Missis- sippi. Ruffed grouse have almost disappeared, wood- cock have grown scarcer and scarcer, English-snipe visit us less abundantly, while the bay-birds have nearly ceased to be in sections where they were once overwhelmingly abundant, but it is possible still, on Lake Erie, along the coast, and at many inland places to make a fair, if not, as often happens, an ex- cellent bag, of ducks. But the best place, one Avhere the birds seem to exist in their original abundance, and where magnificent shooting is still to be had, is on the eastern shore of North-Carolina. Of this favored locality Currituck is the most famous. So celebrated is this county that the entire marshes, the duck-haunted lowlands, have been purchased, and to-day there is absolutely no free shooting to be had. A stranger is as thoroughly debarred as if he were in the most barren portion of our land. ISTo one is allowed to shoot from a battery unless he is a native, and to get a chance to go out at all after the innumerable flocks of wild-fowl that temptingly cover the water, the visitor must belong to one of the numerous sporting clubs which have so wisely and assiduously secured all the shooting grounds, and CURKITUCK MAESHES. 117 most of which are so particular that they exclude in- vited guests. But if you are one of the favored shareholders you can have a glorious time. Fifty ducks a day to each gun is no unusual average, and while a hundred is a large bag, a hundred and fifty is nothing uncom- mon, and as many as two hundred and fifty have been killed by a sportsman and his gunner in a single day. Moreover the birds are of the best possible kind ; there are canvas-backs in the open water, red- heads in still greater abundance, and broad-bills or blue-bills so plenty that they are rarely shot at, while in the pond holes black-ducks, mallards, and widgeons abound. These are all well-fed and fat, and such a thing as a poor duck is iinknown. The law wisely forbids shooting before sunrise or after sunset, and the club members are wise enough to keep the law, knowing as they do that one gun fired after sunset is more injurious than a dozen during the day, so that the ducks do not seem to diminish but rather to increase and multiply, and as fine a day's sport has been had by the members of the club dur- ing the past few years as at any time in the history of the country. A result partly due to breech-load- ers perhaps, while from a battery it is nothing un- usual to kill a hundred brace of red-heads or canvas- backs, and some times twice as many. This favored spot is, as it ought to be, of no easy access. The sportsmen must first go to Norfolk and thence take either the little steamboat Cygnet, en- deared to so many of us by the memory of pleasant 118 CURRITUCK MARSHES. excursions in the past, or travel by a new railroad just finished which passes twenty miles from the traveller's destination, a place known from the name of the enterprising widow lady who formerly owned it, as Van Slyck's Landing. By boat the entire day is spent in the journey, and by rail it is not much shorter, but the boat arrives so late that it is not always possible to make the trip across from the landing to the club house the same night. Opposite Van Slyck's are the two most famous and successful sporting clubs in that section of the United States, the Currituck and the Palmer's Island clubs. They own or control immense tracts of land, and below them to the southward the bay widens out so that there is no chance to kill ducks to advantage. There are a few good stands at Kitty Hawk Bay, thirty miles further south, and at the lower end of Eoanoke Island Eaft ducks can be shot from batteries. Then again along the eastern shore of Pamlico Sound, at Hatteras and Ocracoke inlets and in the western part of Core Sound, to the south of Barker's Island, there is good duck, and in its season brant shooting, but these places can only be reached by the fortunate sportsman who has his own private conveyance. Therefore it may practically be said that the Palmer Island marshes are the ultima tliule of duck shooting. As a general thing, there is attached to every sporting club some old experienced gunner full of wild-fowl lore and quaint and curious phrases, who is a mine of interesting information to him who will CURKITUCK MARSHES. 119 explore the vein. Such a one belonged to the Pal- mer Island club, in the person of William S. Foster, a resident of Long Island, who had followed Shinne- cock Bay for many years, knew the ways and habits of the birds as well as if he were one of them, and was as fond of shooting as the most inveterate sportsman. Honest to a farthing, faithful, anxious to give the person he was with the best sport he could, he was ready to take any amount of trouble, endure any labor for a good day among the ducks, the members of the club looked on him, rather as a friend than a paid employee. "Many is the hour I have spent with him on the Currituck marshes, many a day of splendid shooting have I had, many the big bag have I made with his aid. One of his peculiarities was that he never was in a hurry. No matter how thick the birds were, how easy it seemed to choose a point, he would stand quietly in the bow of the boat with the sea-glass in his hand scanning the movements of the flocks and deliberately select- ing the best place. I would often grow impatient and fear he was losing valuable time, but the result rarely failed to justify his judgment and vindicate his deliberation. The first and most important object, as he explain- ed it under such circumstances, was to so arrange the stools that the ducks would " come right," that is would approach without fear and would offer the sportsman a fair shot. This is a matter of the great- est moment and is not understood by men who con- sider themselves expert wild-fowlers. First, there 120 CUKEITUCK MARSHES. is the question of the wind to take note of, then the position of the sun, next the cover, and last, but by no means least, the nature of the species of ducks that are flying. It will not do to string out the de- coys dead to lee- ward of a point as is so often seen, except perhaps when canvas-backs and red-heads are alone expected, mallards, sprigtails, and especially the wary black-duck will never or rarely approach a point. If a point, with the wind blowing directly off from it has to be chosen, it is better to stretch the decoys around to one side of it so that the wind " will catch tho birds under the wing" as he expressed it and swing them in farther than they expected. Points projecting far out into the open water are the favorites of tyro gunners, but they are especially unsuited for any of the marsh ducks, the black- ducks, mallards, sprigtails, and even the widgeons, all of which give a wide berth to such spots, espe- cially after they have been shot at a few times, and most of which prefer to alight close under the lee of a bank, in the "slick" as it is called. There are-two great divisions of ducks, the deep water, diving or raft ducks, and the shoal water or marsh ducks, which reach down for their food and can never feed in water more than two feet deep. The habits of these two varieties are remarkably dis- similar. The open-water birds, fearless of ambush, are less timid than their pond-loving brethren, who dread an enemy in every tuft of grass or bunch of reeds, when canvas-backs once makeup their minds to come to the stools, they come straight on regard- CUEKITUCK MAKSHES. 121 loss of deficienccs in the gunner's blind, and very fre- quently pass completely over the stools. On the other hand, a black-duck in approaching the stand is a model of caution, he is all eyes and ears, the slightest movement by the sportsman, the least evi- dence of danger will arouse his suspicions, and he will veer suddenly off. Black-ducks and mallards rarely cross the stools to alight at the head of them, but if they reach them at all, drop in at the lower end, or more often stop short and alight at a distance just tantalizingly out of shot, where they remain to lure off every fresh arrival unless they are driven away. Their noses are especially keen, and care must be taken to so arrange the stand that the wind will not carry the scent of the gunner across the water to the lee-ward of the decoys, and the birds get it before they reach them. If they come in contact with such a warning they jump into the air as if they had been shot at, and flee with all the speed that terror can lend to their usually vigorous wings. It is desirable to set the stools under the lee of a bank of reeds or rushes, for none of this class of ducks likes the open water, and the most convenient plan is to place the stools to one side of the stand, quartering as it were across the wind, so that even if the birds alight be- fore actually reaching them, they may be within gun-shot. The location of the stand is most important. I remember once when I was shooting from what is known in the club as "Kidder's Point," that I was particularly impressed with this fact. The day had 122 CURRITUCK MARSHES. been dull and rather quiet, with but a few birds stir- ring all through the morning ; a haze lay upon the marshes, not dense enough to prevent the ducks fly- ing if they had been so minded, which they did not seem to be, the wind scarcely stirred the reeds or rippled the surface of the bay, which was spread out before me. I was making a poor bag and hardly ex- pected to do better, when about midday there came a change over the spirit of the earth and air, the clouds began to condense, the wind commenced to blow, the air became rapidly colder, a thin steak of gray faintly marked the sky in the nothwest, while in the south the clouds grew blacker and denser. Then the rain fell in spits and flurries viciously. The atmosphere intimated a decided change in the weather, which the ducks were the first to recognize and regulate their proceedings by. Evidently avast mass of widgeons were bedded to the lee-ward of us. They commenced to fly not in their individual capac- ity, but as the part of a great movement, as if sud- denly they had made up their minds all to go. In whisps of threes, fours, tens, twenties, in large flocks, or solitary and alone, they came heading towards me directly across the marsh and visible for miles. Then it was that I learned that I was not in exactly the right place, that the birds for some reason best known to themselves did not care to cross that spot 'in their migration. Most of them, especially the largest flocks, passed outside of me and just beyond the range, of my gun. I was in the wrong place, I knew it, but I had no time to move, the ducks CUKRITUCK MARSHES. 125 were flying too fast and too many of them came with- in range as it was for me to lose the time necessary for a change. The rain that was falling, although not heavy, interfered, and would have wet our guns and clothes which were pretty well protected so long as we remained still. So we stayed where we were, and as it was the sport was splendid. The entire mass of widgeons had determined to change their feeding grounds, and that at once, there was no mo- ment when some of them were not visible in the air, they came from one quarter and flew in one direc- tion. I had learned to whistle for widgeon as well as a professional, and did my best with the aid of William Foster to inveigle them within range. Very often we were succsssf ul, and it was an afternoon of excitement. Not a minute passed that we did not have the prospect of a shot, and although the larger flocks mostly kept on their course outside of us, the smaller whisps and the single ones came in freely. l< Why is it that the birds seem to be all moving at once ?" I asked of William during the first mo- ment of partial leisure that we had, "and why are they all going in the same direction ?" " It is a question of food with them," he replied, "as is the case with most other animals. Widgeon can only get their food by reaching down for it, so they must keep where the water is not over their heads ; that is so that they can touch bottom with their bills by tipping up, as you have of ten seen tame ducks do. Now in these shallow marshes a change 126 CTTRRITUCK MARSHES. of wind means a change of depth of water, it is shal- lower to windward, the water being piled up to lee- ward and the ducks, knowing this, fly against the wind, all the shoal feeding birds do so. The canvas-backs, red-heads, and broad-bills make little account of the wind." " But," I answered, " this wind cannot as yet have affected the depth of water." "No, but the birds know that it soon will, and they are getting ready for to-morrow. There will probably be a greater change than we expect, wild animals know much more about the weather than man can ever learn, they have a sort of instinct that is given to them for their protection. I have always observed that the ducks sought the windward side of the marshes. If the wind is blowing from the south, I make it a rule to go to the southward to choose a stand, if from the west I look through the western marshes and so on. Of course I am not al- ways right." "No," I interrupted him to remark, "but we have observed that the member who goes out with you I generally brings in the most birds, so the results tend to demonstrate the theory." "Well, I have studied these marshes as thor- oughly as I could ; there is not a tree that I have not climbed, nor an island that I have not explored." "Can you see much from the trees when you do climb them ?" I asked. "Yes. A little elevation will enable you to see over the entire marsh, and many a pond hole have I CUBRITUCK MARSHES. 127 found in that way that is not known to most of the gunners, and not always to the natives." "Keep still," I remarked at this point of our con- versation, "there comes a magnificent flock of ducks, if they would only turn this way what a shot they would give us. " We were silent except for whistling, which we did with the finest touches and the utmost skill. The flock, spread out against the distant sky in an angle-pointed line, was headed directly for our hid- ing place. We had crouched down on their first ap- pearance, and grasping our guns and watched them, waiting with increasing impatience and anxiety. Nearer and nearer they came, over the distant marsh undisturbed hy any other gunner, and unattracted by other decoys until they were directly in front of us and not more than three hundred yards distant. It was a moment of intense excitement, for if we could once get our four barrels into those serried ranks, there was no telling how many we might not kill. On they came still nearer, we whistled more softly and they answered with undiminished confi- dence. Now they were over the meadow just beyond our stools, a few minutes more of the same course and they would be in our power. But alas, just as they struck the open water they deflected their course a little, not much, but enough to carry them beyond fair reach of our guns, so that when we fired we were only rewarded with three birds that plunged from the flock headlong into the water. As they were 128 Ct'JRfilTUCK MARSHES. being retrieved by our four legged companion, Wil- liam sagely remarked: " I have observed that generally there is some misfortune connected with what would make the finest shots, and that at such times something is sure to go wrong ; either the birds do not come in right, or a twig or reed gets in front of you, the gun misses fire, or something else happens, so that the best chances usually prove the worst." " There is an awful deal in luck," I replied, " after all is said, Napoleon's star was not an imaginary planet by any means. I never was a lucky sports- man, and have had to earn my game by the sweat of my brow." "Did you ever know a sportsman who would ad- mit that he was lucky ?" inquired William, calmly. "I can't say that I ever did ; but if you will keep still and not fluster me with unnecessary generaliza- tions, I will kill that pair of widgeons that are com- ing over the marsh, luck or no luck." After uttering that boast, I had to make my words good, and though I detected a twinkle in my com- panion's eye, as if he would not mind should I hap- pen to miss j nst that once, I took care to aim straight, not the sort of excessive care that invariably results in a miss, but the rapid and confident deliberation that first holds the gun right and then pulls it off when it is right, without waiting until it gets wrong. "Good," said William, sotto voce, in his quiet way, as the two ducks, doubled up by the full charge of shot came down splash into the mud, close to our CURRITUCK MARSHES. 129 stand, "I have seen a good many misses when a man was most sure of hitting ; I hardly expected that you would kill them both so neatly. " The sport kept up. It is useless to describe each individual shot that we made. There is endless variety in every one that is fired, for no two birds come to the decoys precisely alike. There are never the same conditions of wind, sun, position, readiness, and what not, so that each is more or less of a sur- prise. These the sportsman enjoys at the time, they constitute the great charm of shooting; but they would tire in the repetition in the cold blood of white paper and black ink. It is enough that we had a magnificent day's sport; "magnificent" is not hyperbolical; we had sport that will be a memory through life, and until the age-weakened arms can no longer wield the faithful fowling piece, nor the time-dimmed eyes note the birds approach. Our store of game lay in a pile uncounted ; we knew there was a goodly number, and when at last the tired sun had performed his allotted task and gone to bed, we were not surprised to add up nearly a hundred of what is one of the finest of all the ducks, the hand- some little widgeon. Few of our gunners, even the oldest of them, know that there was a time when the widgeon was valued more highly than the canvas- back, when in fact in firing a sitting shot the market gunner would "shew" the latter out of the way, in order that he might have a better chance at the for- mer. Had we been in exactly the right spot, there is no doubt that I would then have reached the bag 130 CURRITUCK MARSHES. of two hundred, which it has been the ambition of my life to attain. On another occasion I had the same misfortune, although from a different cause. I was with Jesse that time, Jesse who, or Jesse what, I cannot tell. So faithful and trustworthy a fellow must have an- other name, a full name ; but often as I have availed m} r self of his care in the marshes of Currituck, I am ashamed to confess that I have forgotten it. Every one calls him simply "Jesse," out of kindly feeling no doubt, for a better fellow never set out a stand of decoys ; so as simply Jesse he must go down to the immortality that this book will give him. He is devoted- to the pleasure of his employer, and never more delighted than when the latter brings home a fine bag of birds ; but he is not quite so skillful as his older associate, William Foster. He had observed, when out the day previous, that the birds had a favor- ite feeding place in a little bay near what in club nomenclature is designated as "the horse-shoe." To this place we wended our way as soon as we con Id cross the intervening three miles of distance. The bay was not large, and at its mouth was contracted into two narrow points which were hardly a hundred yards apart. 1 had never shot at this particular point, and Jesse did not think of the effect of the sun when he made his selection. One point was prob- ably as favorable as the other, with that exception, but the one he selected brought the birds directly between me and that luminary when he shot his burning and blinding rays from mid-heaven. The CUKRITUCK MARSHES. 131 result was, that before the day was over, reeds and ducks and spots swam before my eyes in prismatic hues. The heavens become alive with them, mixed up with grasses and flowers, the gorgeous colors of condensed sunlight. Scarlet ducks, golden ducks, fiery ducks floated before my bewildered vision, inter- woven with such flaming reeds and rushes as were never seen by mortal eye before. To say that under the circumstances I could not shoot with my accus- tomed skill, is unnecessary ; I could not help occa- sionally mistaking the flaming bird for the natural one, and no doubt would have killed him, had he only been real enough to kill. This was the second occasion when I might have reached my stint of two hundred, if I had only been so fortunate as to locate properly in the first place, or even had had the cour- age to change when I found out that I was wrong. There are myriads of wild geese and swans in Currituck Sound and its adjoining waters. The swans are hard to kill, and it rarely falls to the for- tune of any sportsman to bag more than two or three of these beautiful birds in a season, but the geese are shot in immense numbers on favorable days "goosing days," as they are called. Such days are made by a southwesterly wind blowing hard enough to constitute a gale, and the harder the better, which causes the water to rise and enables the geese to reach the beaches where they go to sand. For this shoot- ing a " stand," as it is called, of tamed wild geese are required. The sportsman hides himself in a large, water-tight box, which has been sunk in the 132 CUER1TUCK MARSHES. sand at the spot which the birds frequent, and the ''stand" of living decoys are tethered in front by stout strings fastened to their legs and pinned to -the ground. The geese come to the stools in flocks, and the slaughter at times is enormous, as many as two hundred being no unusual bag, and that is often rounded out with forty or fifty ducks. It is cus- tomary on such occasions to put a live swan or two with the geese decoys, if the sportsman happens to be so fortunate as to possess them, and I never shall forget seeing four swans come to a stand which was located some distance from my own, but in full view from it. I have always believed that birds could converse and had a language of their own, and on this occasion my theory received confirmation strong as holy writ. When I have sat listening hour after hour to the unceasing conversational cack- lings of geese, who appear to be the most talkative of birds, I fancied that I could almost make out the words they uttered, and which were certainly under- stood by the fowls themselves, as the dullest observer would be convinced by their actions. Their ex- pressions of comfort, their mild observations about the weather may not have been quite comprehen- sible, but their cries of alarm, their notes of warn- ing, no one could mistake. Ignorant hearers not versed in go'ose language, and a very pretty tongue I have no doubt it is, may call it contemptuously "gabble," but so is the language of any foreigner "gabble" to those Avho do not understand it. In the instance that I am about to mention with CURRITUCK MARSHES. 133 the swans, there could be no difficulty in under- standing every word. There were four of them, the wise father, the inquisitive mother, and two pretty, innocent, dove-colored cygnets. They were sailing along far up in the heavens, away out of danger, when the attention of the young ones was attracted to a nice, gentle old swan seated happily among a body of geese that were evidently having a good time and abundant food. In all the innocence of their uncor- rupted hearts they uttered a shout of joy and started to join him, the mother who was curious to under- stand the meaning of so happy a combination, fol- lowing eagerly behind them. In vain the cautious father warned them to "go slow." They would not stop to listen or to heed. On they flew or swam after alighting on the water, giving free expression to their feelings of pleasure. Louder and louder grew the warning notes of the head of the house, who hung back and tried to keep the others back, but his efforts were useless, the young were guileless, and the foolish wife inquisitive. He was too devoted to leave his family, although the danger into which they were running was apparent to him. Soon his worst fears were realized. He was out of gunshot, but his wife and children were within the fatal reach of the deadly gun. Several loud reports fol- lowed one another, and all was over. In an instant he was childless and wifeless. The two cygnets were killed dead, but the mother was able to fly a hundred yards, and it was pitiful to see him go to her, braving all danger, and to hear his cries of lamentation. He 134 CUEEITUCK MARSHES. could not save her, however, and when the boat ap- proached with a gunner to complete the deadly work, the poor old swan had to leave her. Still he kept circling round for some time and filling the air with his bitter lamentations. In wild fowl shooting it is essential to learn the various calls of the different species of ducks and of the geese and swans. These it is impossible to reproduce on paper, and about all that can be said is that the raft ducks make various modifications of the word " pritt," if it can be called a word ; that the widgeons whistle, the geese honk, and the mal- lards and black-ducks quack. Jesse had a curious way of calling the shoal-water ducks by uttering in rapid succession the word " Kek-kekkek, kek-kek- kek-kek ;" and he seemed to attract them as well as the patent duck-call which I had purchased in the gun store for a dollar. For black-ducks, however, I prefer the manufactured duck-call, and in going out for them, I cannot too strongly impress upon the reader the necessity for the utmost caution and the most careful hiding. When shooting at some small pond hole in the middle of the marshes, it is better to only use one or two decoys and to be covered en- tirely, except for a single opening in front, just large enough to fire through, overlooking the stools. A single tamed wild duck for this kind of sport is worth all the wooden decoys in the world, and his quack is better than Jesse's " kek " or my " squawk." Some gunners can set up the birds they have killed so as to be almost as natural as the living bird, and CURRITUCK MARSHES. 135 to deceive even the elect, but it is not an easy knack to acquire. Usually such imitation stools look so fearfully and abnormally dead, that they would drive any duck, with the fear of ghosts before his mind, out of the country. It is only the most experienced gunner that can take such liberties with the dead. At the North, where the winters are colder than they are at Currituck, it is customary to shoot in the ice. No waters that ducks frequent are ever en- tirely frozen over ; there are always what are called "breathing holes," where the gunner can place his stools, and which the ducks frequent for food. He dresses himself in white linen over his other clothes, so as to be as near the color of the ice as possible, and he uses a light skiff provided with iron runners underneath. This he shoves rapidly over the ice without much labor, carrying his dozen or so of stools aboard, and using an iron-pointed pole to propel himself with. He has his oars stowed under the narrow deck, so that he can row across open water, and i.3 safe in case his skiff should break through the ice. When he has reached the open hole that he has selected, he throws out his stools and cuts a place in the ice at the edge of the hole, to hide himself and his boat, piling the cakes that he takes out alongside of him, to further assist in hiding him. The decoys he uses are black-ducks and whistlers, which will stool to one another indis- criminately. He must then lie down on his back in the skiff, and no matter how cold he may be, he must not move or stir. Though his blood chills and 136 CURRITUCK MARSHES. the marrow of his bones freezes, he must bear it, for there is no telling at what instant the birds may dart down upon him from the heavens, as they have a way of doing without giving the sportsman the least warning. Shooting in the ice has sent many a healthy man to a consumptive's grave. In closing this article, let me give a final bit of wisdom in the words of William Foster. It is well known to every wild-fowler, but his way of putting it covers in a few words the whole ground : " Ee- member, that as a general rule, the shoal-water ducks go with the shoal-water ducks, and the diving ducks go with the diving ducks, so they will pretty well stool in the same way. Each prefers his own kind a little the best, I think, but not enough to make a decided difference, provided the stools are of the same class. Widgeon like widgeon, and canvas- backs will only stool to canvas-backs or red-heads, but broad-bills will come to canvas-back stools al- most as well as they will come to broad-bill stools. Black-ducks prefer black-duck stools, but sprigtails and mallards will come to black-duck stools nearly as readily as they will to their own. Don't, however, use canvas-back stools for black-ducks, nor, above all, black-duck stools for canvas-backs." PART 11. GAME WATER BIRDS. CHAPTER I. GAME AND ITS PROTECTION". BY the ancient law of 1 and 2 William IV., chap. 32, under the designation of game, were included " hares, pheasants, partridges, grouse, heath or moor game, black game, and bustards." Hunting and hawking date back to the earliest days of knight-errantry, when parties of cavaliers and ladies fair, mounted on their mettlesome steeds caparisoned with all the skill of the cunning arti- ficers of those clays, pursued certain birds of the air with the falcon, and followed the royal stag through the well preserved and extensive forests with packs of hounds. The term game, therefore, had an early significance and positive application, but was con- fined to the creatures pursued in one or the other of these two modes. The gun was first used for the shooting of feather- ed game in the early part of the eighteenth century; it soon became the favorite implement of the sports- man, and was brought into use, not only against the 140 GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. birds', but the beasts, of game. The huntsman no longer depends upon his brave dog and cloth-yard shaft, but upon his own powers of endurance and of marksmanship. Instead of watching the savage fal- con strike his prey far up in the heavens, he follows his high-bred setters, till their wonderful natural in- stinct betrays to him the presence of the game. Where he once rode after the yelping pack, sound- ing the merry notes of his bugle horn, he now climbs and crawls laboriously, until he brings the wary stag within range of the deadly rifle. No more brilliant parties of lovely dames and gallant men, chatting merrily on the incidents of the day, ride gaily decked steeds; no more the luxury of the beautiful faces and pleasant companionship of the gentler sex is to be enjoyed ; the ladies of modern times except in England, where they occasionally follow foxes, which are rather vermin than game prefer- ring the excitement of ball-room flirtations to out- door sports and pleasures, take no part in the pur- suits of the chase. Together with the change in the mode of captur- ing game, comes a necessity for a change in its former restricted meaning. Who would think of not including among game birds, the gamest of them all the magnificent woodcock ; nor the stylish English snipe, nor even possibly the brave little quail unless he can be scientifically proved to be a par- tridge which is at least doubtful! Migratory birds were not included in the sacred list, and the quail in England, as the woodcock and snipe of both GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. England and America, are migratory, although the mere temporary character of their residence does not, in our view, at all alter the nature of their claims. The larger European woodcock is by no means so delicious or highly flavored a bird as our yello w-breasted, round-eyed beauty, and is much scarcer ; while the foreign quail, on the other hand, is smaller than ours, and in southern Europe is found in vast flocks ; but both are entitled to high rank among modern sportsmen. The term Game Birds, therefore, should be, and has been by general consent, greatly extended in its application, and applied to all the numerous species which, whether migratory or not, are killed not alone for the market, but for sport; and which are followed on the stubble fields, in brown November, with the strong-limbed and keen-nosed setter, or shot from blind in scorching August ; slain from battery in freezing December, or chased in a boat, or misled by decoys. All wild birds that furnish sport as well as profit are therefore game ; and the gentle dowitchers along our sea-coast, lured to the deceitful stools, are as much entitled to the name as the stately ruffed grouse of our wild woods, or the royal turkey of the far west. To constitute a legitimate object of true sport, the bird must be habitually shot on the wing, and the greater the skill required in its capture, the higher its rank. The turkey, therefore, although frequently killed on the wing, is more a game bird by suffer- ance than by right, and partly from his gastronomic 142 GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. as well as from his other qualities. Under this classification, then, we must include, not merely the ruffed and pinnated grouse, which, although the only species in our country coming within the ancient definition, furnish far less sport than many other varieties, but woodcock, snipe, quail, geese, ducks, bay birds, plover, and rail ; without regard to the fact that all, except the quail, are migratory, and most were unknown to our British ancestry. It has been even supposed that the quail, in parts of our country free from deep rivers and impassable barriers, are also in a measure migratory ; but this has no other foundation than their habit of wander- ing from place to place in search of food, and col- lecting late in the season, as they will do where they are numerous and undisturbed in large packs. To the protection of this vast variety of game it is the sportsman's duty to address himself, in spite of the opposition of the market-man and restaurateur, the mean-spirited poaching of the pot-hunter, and the lukewarmness of the farmer. The latter can be enlisted in the cause; he has indirectly the objects of the sportsman at heart ; and with proper enlight- enment will assist, not merely to preserve his fields from ruthless injury, but to save from destruction his friends the song-birds. As the true sportsman turns his attention only to legitimate sport, destroying those birds that are but little if at all useful to the farmer ; and as at the same time, out of gratitude for the kindness with which the latter generally receives him, he is care- GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. 143 ful never to invade the high grass or the ripening grain so also, from his innate love of nature, and of everything that makes nature more beautiful, he spares and defends the warblers of the woods and the innocent worm-devourers that stand guardian over the trees and crops. The smaller birds destroy immense numbers of worms; cedar-birds have been known to eat hundreds of caterpillars, and in this city have cleared the public squares in a morning's visit of the disgusting measuring-worms, that were hang- ing by thousands pendent from the branches. And who has not heard the " woodpecker tapping " all day long in pursuit of his prey ? With the barbarous and senseless destruction of our small birds, the ravages of the worms have augmented, until we hear from all the densely-set- tled portions of the country loud complaints of their attacks. Peach-trees perish ; cherries are no longer the beautiful fruit they once were ; apples are dis- figured, and plums have almost ceased to exist. Worms appear upon every vegetable thing; the borers dig their way beneath the bark of the trunk and cut long alleys through the wood ; weevils pierce the grain and eat out its pith ; the leaf-eaters of various sorts punch out the delicate membrane by individual effort; or collecting in bodies, throw their nets, like a spider-web, over the branches, and by combined attacks deliberately devour every leaf. While these species are at work openly and in full sight, others are at the roots digging and destroy- ing and multiplying; until the tree that at first 144 GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. gave evidence of hardiness and promise of long utility to man, pauses in its growth, becomes deli- cate, fades, and finally dies. The destruction of these vermicular pests is a question of life or death to the farmer. He may attempt it either with his own labor, by tarring his trees, fastening obstructions on the trunks, or by killing individuals ; or he may have it done for him, free of expense, by innumerable flocks of the deni- zens of the air. The increase of worms must be stopped ; the means of doing so is a question of serious public concern, and none have yet been in- vented so effectual as the natural course the res- toration of the equipoise of nature. It is true that the robin, as we call him, now and then steals a cherry, and has been blamed as though he were nothing more than a cherry-thief; but surely we can spare him a little fruit for his dessert, when we remember that his meal has been composed mainly of the deadly enemies of that very fruit ! Swallows are accused of breeding lice, which, if true, would not be a serious charge, considering that their nests are generally in the loftiest and least accessible cor- ner they can find ; but when we consider how many millions of noxious flies and poisonous mosquitoes they destroy, how they hover over the swamps and meadows for this especial purpose, and how much annoyance their labors save to human kind, we owe them gratitude instead of abuse. Every tribe of birds has its allotted part to play ; and if destroyed, not only will its pleasant songs and GAME AND ITS PKOTECTION". 145 bright feathers, gleaming amid the green leaves, be missed, but some species of bug or insect, some disgusting caterpillar or injurious fly, will escape well merited destruction, and increasingly visit upon man the punishment of his cruelty and folly. The beautiful blue-birds, the numerous wood- peckers, the tiny wrens, the graceful swallows and noisy martins, are sacred to the sportsman, and con- stitute one great division of the creatures that he desires to protect. It is true that enthusiastic for- eigners, with cast-iron guns, are seen peering into trees and lurking through the woods, proud of a dirty bag half filled with robins, thrushes, and wood- peckers ; but let no ignorant reader confound such persons with sportsmen. Their satisfaction in slay- ing one beautiful little warbler, as full of melody as it is bare of meat, with a deadly charge of No. 4 shot ; or in chasing from tree to tree the agile red squirrel, who, with bushy tail erect, leaps from one limb to another, emulating the very birds them- selves with his agility, is as unsportsmanlike as to kill a cheeping quail, that, struggling from the thick weeds in September before the pointer's nose, with feeble wings, skirts the low brush; or to murder the brooding woodcock, that flutters up before the dog in June, and, with holy maternal instinct, en- deavours to lead the pursuer from her infant brood. From such acts the veritable sportsman turns with horror ; they arc cruelty the slaughter of what is useless for food, or what, by its death, will produce misery to others; and no persons in the 146 GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. community have done more to repress this wanton- ness of destruction than the Sportsmen's Clubs. It was at their request that the killing of song-birds was prohibited altogether; and they are the most earnest to restrict the times of lawful sport to such periods as will not, by any possibility, permit its' being followed during the season of incubation. Not alone by obtaining the passage of appropriate laws and their vigorous enforcement, have these clubs effected a great reform ; but by their personal example and social influence, often, too, at consider- able loss to themselves. For while the poacher, taking the chance of a legal conviction as an acci- dent of business, and but a slight reduction of his unlawful profits, anticipates the appointed time, true sportsmen, restrained by a feeling of honor and self- respect, although they know that the birds are being killed daily in defiance of the statute, wait till the laAvful day arrives, and thus often, especially in woodcock shooting, sacrifice their entire season's sport for a principle. This honorable spirit, if encouraged and extended, is the best protection for song-birds and game that can be had. The laws are only necessary to deter those who are dead to honor and decency, and to fix the proper times which ought to be uniform throughout our entire country. But to enforce them requires the assistance of public opinion. Every encouragement should be given to sportsmen's asso- ciations. The absurd prejudice that has originated from confounding them with a very different class GAME AND ITS PKOTECTION. 147 of the community should be overcome, and their efforts to have good laws passed, and to make them effectual, should be sustained. The vulgar idea, that confounds laws for the protection of the wild creatures of wood, meadow, lake, and stream, with the monstrous game-laws of olden time that made killing a hare more criminal than killing a man^- should be corrected. In this country, where every man is expected to be a sort of volunteer-policeman, all should unite in enforcing the laws; and then, in spite of the irre- pressible obstinacy of the German enthusiast, and the mean cunning of the sneaking poacher, our cities would soon be rid of the disgusting worms that make their trees hideous, our farms protected from the devastations of the cnrculio, the weevil, the borer, and the army-worm ; the country would once more be populated with its native feathered game, and our fields would resound with the glad songs of the little birds that there build their homes. So long as the ignorant of our nouveaux riches, imagining themselves to be epicures, will pay for unseasonable game an extravagant price, so long will unscrupulous market-men purchase, and loafing, disreputable, tavern-haunting poachers shoot or other- wise kill their prey. It must be made a disgrace, and if necessary punished as a crime, for any modern Lucullus to insult his guests by presenting to them game out of season ; and eating-house keepers should not only be taught by persistent espionage, if ne- 148 GAME AND ITS PKOTECTION. cessary that illegal profits will not equal legal punishments ; but their customers should also dis- courage, by withdrawing their patronage, conduct that is so injurious to the public interests. Wood- cock would not be shot in spring, nor quail in sum- mer, unless the demand for them were sufficiently great to pay both the expense of capture and the danger of exposure; and, with a diminution of pur- chasers, will be an increased diminution of the num- ber of birds improperly killed. Birds and fish, except in their proper seasons, are always tasteless, and often unhealthy food. A set- ting quail or a spawning trout is absolutely unfit to eat, and to do without them is no sacrifice ; but for the sportsman to restrain his ardor as the close-time draws towards an end, and when others less scrupu- lous are filling their bags daily, or when in the wilder sections of country there is no one to com- plain or object, requires the heroism of self-denial. Nevertheless, the effect of example should not be forgotten, and the duty of the true sportsman is clear and unmistakable : he must abide by the law ; or, where there is no law, must govern himself by analogous rules. In the wilderness, it is true, where birds are abun- dant to excess, he may without blame supply his pot with cheeping grouse or wood-duck flappers, if he can offer hunger as an excuse; but not even there, unless driven by extremity, can he slay the parent of a brood that will starve without parental care. In the settled regions, no matter how great GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. 149 the provocation, the true sportsman will never for- get the chivalric motto, noblesse oblige. The close-times of the present statutes are not altogether correct ; and in so extensive a locality as the United States, where diverse interests are to be considered, it is nearly impracticable to make the laws perfect. For instance, where quail are abun- dant, as in the South, there is no objection to killing them during the entire month of January ; but, as at that period they are often lean and tough, and have to contend, in the Northern States, against dangers of the elements and rapacious vermin, with not too favorable a chance for life it is undesirable, where they are in the least scarce, to continue the pursuit after December. If it were possible to make a uniform law for the entire Union, and to enforce it everywhere, English snipe and ducks should not be killed at all during the spring. The latter at the time of their flight northward are poor and fishy ; but if they can be slain in New Jersey, it is hardly worth while to protect them, in New York. For every duck or snipe that passes towards the hatching-grounds of British America in the early part of the year, four or five return in the fall and winter. Could proper protection, therefore, be enforced, the sport in the latter season would be four times as great as in the former. As matters stand, however, the seasons for killing game birds should be: For woodcock, from July fourth to December thirty-first; for ruffed and pin- 150 GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. natecl grouse, from September first and quail from November first to the same period, both days in- clusive ; for wood-duck from August first till they migrate southward. It is desirable to fix upon an- niversaries or days that are easily remembered. Woodcock are often young and weak in early sum- mer, and the three days gained between the first and the fourth of July are quite an advantage. Although the first brood of quail may be fully grown in October, a vast number of the birds are too small, and the brush is too dense and thick before the first of the ensuing month ; whereas it is simply monstrous to slay pinnated grouse, put up by the panting, overheated pointer from the high grass of the western prairie, in the month of August, ere they can half fly. But the migratory birds of the coast the waterfowl and snipe, the waders and plovers may continue to be shot when they can be found, till their rapidly diminishing numbers shall compel a more sensible and consider- ate treatment. The bay-snipe lead the advancing army of the game birds that have sought the cool and secluded marshes of Hudson's Bay and the Northern Ocean to raise their young, and are hastening south from approaching cold and darkness to more congenial climes. Next come the beautiful wood-duck, and, almost simultaneously, the English snipe ; then the swift but diminutive teal; after him the broad-bill or the blue-bill of the west ; and then a host of other ducks, till the hardy canvas-backs and geese GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. 151 bring up the rear. From July, when the yellow- legs and dowitchers abound ; throughout August, in which month the larger bay-birds are continuously streaming by ; during September, when the English snipe are on the meadows and the wood-ducks in the lily-pad marshes of the fresh-water lakes ; in Octo- ber, when the teal and blue-bills are abundant in the great west; all through the fall and into winter, when the geese and canvas-backs arrive, the bay- man finds his sport in perfection. Many of the upland birds are disappearing ; the quail is being killed with merciless energy, and his loved haunts of dense brush are cleared away from year to year ; the woodcock can hardly rest in peace long enough to rear her young, and finds many of her favorite secluded spots drained by the enterpris- ing farmer ; the ruffed grouse disappears with the receding forest, and the prairie chicken with the cultivation of the open land. But although innu- merable ducks, snipe, find plovers are killed every season, and by unjustifiable measures are driven from certain localities, their vast flights throughout the whole country amounting to myriads in the west are apparently as innumerable as ever. From the first of August to the last of December they stretch athwart the sky from the Atlantic to the Pacific ; and although in localities they may appear scarce, still constitute countless hosts. Were it possible to stand on some peak of the Rocky Mountains, and take in at a glance the vast stretch of heavens from ocean to ocean, with the moving 152 GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. myriads of migratory flocks, the mind would be astonished ; and it would seem impossible ever to reduce their numbers. This is to a certain degree true; for so long as the lagoons of the South shall remain undisturbed, and the shores of the bays and rivers unoccupied to any great extent, this abun- dance of the migratory birds will continue. But who can tell how long this will last ? The methods of destruction are being perfected, the number of destroyers is increasing, until now the reverberation of the fowling piece accompanies the water-fowl from the rocky shores of Maine to the sandy coasts of North Carolina with the unceasing roar of threatened death. Twenty years ago, and "batteries," as they are 'called, the sunken floats which are the most fatal ambushes of the gunner, were almost unknown south of Havre de Grace; now they are so abundant throughout the waters of North Carolina that the migratory bird is never out of ear-shot of them during his entire journey. It would be better for the permanence of wild- fowl shooting never to use batteries where fair sport can be obtained from points or blinds. Ducks, geese, and, above all, swans have great faith in the sharpness of their eyes and the acuteness of their noses. Dangers that they can see they are rather tempted to scorn.. They learn to shun points where man may conceal his murderous propensities, and are not to be inveigled by the apparent security of the deceitful likenesses of themselves which are innocently nestling near by. They seek the safety GAME AND ITS PKOTECTION. 153 of the open water, and feed in the narrow bays and marsh-encompassed ponds during moonlight nights, if they belong to the tribes that are compelled to gain their living by grubbing at the bottom, with heads down and tails up. And no matter how they are harried in certain places, they feel safe in others close at hand. But the battery, sunken to a level with the water and hidden by the stand of decoys around it, placed on their favorite feeding grounds and in the broad bosom of the open bays, is too much for their courage or sagacity. To see a man, a merciless and murderous mortal, arise in all his horrid aspect from the depths of the sea, from the middle of a body of their fellows, is a terror that custom never stales. After a few such experiences, they lose faith in themselves, and, if possible, take flight to safer and more propitious realms. To those who are accustomed to it, there is no more delightful method of shooting than from a battery, but a novice will find much trouble in be- coming accustomed to the confined position and the awkwardness of motion. I remember, years ago, hearing Mr. Dominy, who then kept the fa- mous sporting hostelry at Fire Island, say that if he was to shoot on a wager for his life, he would pre- fer to shoot from a battery rather than in any other way. To one not used to the narrow box and con- strained position, lying on one's back does not seem to be the most cheerful manner of killing any spe- cies of game. There is everything in habit, and certainly the exhilaration of watching the approach 154 GAME AND ITS PKOTECTION. of the birds 'as they come nearer and nearer, and grow larger and larger, from mere specks on the horizon to the size of broad-bills, canvas-backs, or perhaps brant or geese, is hardly to be surpassed by any kind of sport. In most of the Southern waters the destructive nature of these machines is so well recognized, that non-residents are not permitted to use them, and the natives keep this method of wild-fowling to themselves. The shooter lies on his back in this modified cof- fin, and whenever a flock approaches he rises to a sitting posture and fires. He cannot leave his float- ing home, and is unable to retrieve his ducks with- out the aid of ah assistant. There have been many accidents arising from carelessness or inexperience, not merely in the use of the machine itself, but from the fault of the tender; and so many guns have blown holes in the bottom of the box, that it is the habit of the gunners on the south side of Long Island always to warn green hands, and in- struct them how to rest and hold their guns. In two instances within my own knowledge, the sailing boat that accompanies the shooter, and serves as his tender and protector, was unable to return to him. In one case it was driven to leeward, and could not work back to windward, and in the other it went aground on a falling tide just before 'dark, when the thermometer ranged but little above zero. In both cases the sportsmen were saved, but in both the hand of death grazed them closely. Night shooting is a still more deleterious prac- GAME AND ITS PROTECTION". 155 tice. Wild fowl must be allowed to rest at night; indeed, the same might be said of most other ani- mals, including the human family. If they are not, they will inevitably wend their way elsewhere. The discharge of one shot at night, with its accom- paniment of flame, and its noise reverberating more horribly in the still and silent hours, will do more to frighten away the marsh ducks than any amount of daylight shooting. As the night begins to fall, the fowl begin to seek the .marshes. They rise from the open water where they have been resting, perhaps without being able to feed at all, and move towards the shore, coming on in a steady unbroken flight, until they have all found nesting and feeding grounds in the shoal water. Drive them from such places in the night, and there will be no shooting during the day. The use of pivot-guns is another reprehensible practice that has been so earnestly condemned, even among market-gunners, that it has been in a great measure abandoned. Still, however, in some quiet bay of one of the groat lakes of the West, where there is no one to observe the iniquity, or of a moon- light night on the Chesapeake, the poaching mur- derer, sculling his boat clown upon an unsuspicious flock crowded together and feeding or asleep, will discharge a pound or two of coarse shot from his diminutive cannon ; and wounding hundreds, will kill scores of ducks at the one fatal discharge. The noise, however, reverberating over land and water, scatters the tidings of the guilty act far and wide ; 156 GAME AND ITS PEOTECTION. and often brings upon the criminal detection and punishment. To avoid this the pivot-shooter will sometimes, as soon as he has fired, throw his gun overboard with a buoy attached to it, and if pur- sued, pretend he has used nothing but his small fowling-piece. The practice of pivot-shooting, how- ever, has almost ceased, never having been exten- sively adopted ; and has nothing whatever sports- manlike about it, being a mixture of cruelty and theft. Another mode of pursuing ducks, which is at the same time attractive, exciting, and injurious, is by the use of a sail-boat. Not only is there the ex- citement of the pursuit, the rushing down wind with bellying sail and hissing water the crested waves parting at the prow and lengthening out behind in two long lines of foam but there is the free motion and the pleasant breeze tv stimulate the sportsman. This is really a delightful sport, combining the excitement of shooting with the ex- hilaration of sailing ; but as it disturbs the flocks upon their feeding-grounds, as it gives them no rest during the noontide hours, when it appears that ducks like all other sensible people love to in- dulge in a quiet nap, it eventually drives them away ; and not only makes them shy of the locality, but injures the sport of the point-shooter, who de- pends upon their regular flights for his success. It is not often very remunerative, but is uncommonly attractive, and is only condemned with great re- luctance on proof of its injurious results. GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. 157 But while sailing for ducks is wisely forbidden by the laws of New York and of most of the older States, that prohibition should not be stretched be- yond the true meaning and intent of the statute. Coots, the big black sea coot of the coast and his congeners, not the little mud coot or blue peter of the fresh waters, may be ducks from a scientific point of view, but they were never intended to be included in the prohibition. These dusky gentle- men are wonderful divers, they swim under Avater almost as readily and rapidly as they fly abov.e it, and seek their food at the bottom. They do not so much live on fish, in fact I have never noticed fish in their stomachs, although some authorities say that they feed on them, but they devour incredible numbers of small clams, and oysters. They are not content to take the full grown bivalve, two or three of which would make a solid meal even for a vora- cious coot, but they invariably select the tiny fel- lows just starting in life, and of whom it takes a great many to furnish forth a breakfast or dinner. There is little sport in shooting these tough fellows, and no sport except in killing them from a sailboat when underway. In this chapter on the obligations that man owes to his feathered friends, his naturalized assistants must not be forgotten. The imported sparrow, though small in himself, has done a great work for our country, and still more for our cities. We all know that gratitude is a fleeting sentiment, and looks rather to things hoped for than to those 158 GAME AND ITS PROTECTION. which have already been conferred, and it is some- what the fashion to decry the bustling busy immi- grant from abroad; but those who remember the condition of our streets and parks, hung full with disgusting measuring worms pendent from every tree and branch, till to pass through them was an annoyance, will not wholly forget our debt to the English sparrow. He has been, wrongfully I think, accused of driving away our native birds., but before we condemn him it will have to be shown, not only that he has done so, but in addi- tion that he has driven away birds more useful than himself. It is but a few years since he was first brought among us, and already have the caterpillars so thor- oughly disappeared, that one is rarely seen in our streets, and the trees are allowed to bear their foli- age in peace, instead of being reduced to bare boughs, as was their invariable fate in old times. The sparrow has been accused, and has been com- pelled to plead guilty of the crime of not eating the hairy as well as the smooth-skinned caterpillar, but it ought to be urged in mitigation, before he is condemned to condign punishment, that his adver- saries do not do so either, while they are guilty of the further crime of not even eating the smooth- skinned kinds. CHAPTER H. GUNNERY MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. To the young sportsman, armed with the finest of implements, and trusting much to them for his suc- cess, it is a matter of mortification and surprise how well a bad gun will shoot in good hands ; never- theless, no true sportsman ever lived but, if he were able by any self-denial to scrape the. means together, would purchase a valuable and necessarily expensive fowling-piece. !Not only is a well made and handsomely finished gun safer and lighter than a cheap affair manufactured for the wholesale trade ; not only does it ordinarily carry closer and recoil less ; but it needs fewer repairs, lasts infinitely longer, and is always a matter of pride and delight to its owner. Many guns of inferior workmanship throw shot as strongly as those turned out by the best makers although this is not the fact in general but greater weight has to be given to insure tolerable safety, and the locks, if not the barrels, are sure to give out in a few years ; whereas the high-priced article will be as perfect at the end of a dozen years which have accustomed its owner to its easy, rapid, and effective management as it was in the begin- ning, and will endure until failing sight, wasting 160 MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. disease, or accumulating years, shall compel its trans* fer into younger hands. Unless a man has continual practice, or is an ex- cellent shot, it is a serious undertaking to change his gun and accustom himself to another, which, although apparently identical in weight and shape, will inevitably differ in some slight point that will be sufficient to destroy, for a time, accuracy in aim and prompt execution in cover. Some persons re- quire months to acquire the effective use of a new gun under difficult circumstances; and in those dense thickets where so much of our shooting is done, and where it is by instinct founded upon long habit that the sportsman is enabled at all to kill his game, and where he cannot indulge in the de- liberate care that more open shooting allows this deficiency will be most painfully apparent. For such persons to purchase a new piece, is equi- valent to throwing away the sport of an entire sum- mer or fall, and when we consider that few of us can expect to average more than forty summers or falls, the loss of one-fortieth part of life's enjoyment is no trivial deprivation. A very cheap gun is dangerous; but it is not ex- pected that any person reading these lines will trust his life with an instrument that common sense tells him is manufactured to kill at both' ends. A gun of moderate price, that is, from forty to fifty dollars, is as safe as the most expensive the iron is not so tough, but more of it is used ; but in a short time the barrels will wear away ; the locks, losing their MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. 161 original quick spring and sharp click, will become dull and weak, till they will scarcely discharge the cap ; and the stock, warping with the weather, will exhibit yawning fissures between itself and the iron lock-plates or false breech. In lightness, however, is the great superiority of the highly wrought implement ; and in hard tramp- ing through a dense swamp of a hot July day, or deep wading in a soft snipe-meadow, or in a wearisome trudge over hill and dale after Novem- ber quail, a pound will make itself felt in the addi- tional weight of the fowling-piece, and not only so, but a light gun can be handled more readily. In open shooting, especially for the wild fowl of our bays and coasts, mere weight is a positive advan- tage ; but in the tangled thickets, where birds flash out of sight like gleams of party-colored light, and the instantaneous use of the piece can alone secure success, a light gun is an absolute necessity. Moreover, on certain occasions, when the barrels are exposed to an extraordinary strain, when the piece built for light charges and upland shooting is used temporarily upon the larger game of the coasts or woods, and the two and a half drachms of powder and ounce of fine shot are replaced by a dozen buck- shot, or an ounce and a half of No. 3 driven by five drachms of powder then it is pleasant to feel that the iron is of the utmost possible tenacity and the workmanship in every way faultless. A learned dissertation on the science of gun- nery is neither appropriate to the occasion nor 162 MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. possible to the author, and would probably prove as little entertaining as instructive to the reader. The majority of purchasers cannot form an exact opinion relative to the merits of a gun prepared with the utmost skill and ingenuity to deceive them, and must rely mainly on the word of the seller or reputation of the maker. There is something, to be sure, in the smooth working of the locks, and still more in the perfect fitting of the stock ; but after all, even to the experienced sportsman, there is little difference in appearance between the Sham- damn and the purest laminated steel. American importers have a peculiarly moral and respectable habit of vending German guns stamped with the names of English makers, and pacify their consciences with the idea that the manufactures of Germany are not inferior to those of England; but they would give more satisfaction to the public and more ease to their consciences by proving this in open contest, and establishing the reputation of the German makers, than by appro- priating the names and reputations that good work has made famous. So far is this deception carried, that some houses even order from the Bel- gian manufacturers a certain number, nominally, of each of the leading gun-makers. It may be that there is little real difference, although on the con- tinental guns you sometimes pay for useless orna- ment, money that should have been expended where it would tell, on locks and barrels ; but the mode of proceeding is certainly not creditable. MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. 163 In a highly finished article the locks usually work with a smooth oiliness that can be distinguished with a little practice, and are fitted with great accuracy into the stock, so that projections of wood will be left standing not thicker than a piece of blotting-paper. The barrels will be without flaw or indentation, and if looked, through with the breech removed, will exhibit a perfect ring of light flowing up evenly, as they are raised or low- ered. The mountings will be faultless, and the cuts in all the screw-heads will point in the same direc- tion ; the screws will work easily and yet perfectly, and the triggers and trigger-plate, which are inva- riably neglected in a poor gun, will be admirably finished and fitted. Examine all these particulars, but especially the last, and you can form some judg- ment whether the piece comes from a good maker or a spurious imitator. The greatest attention, however, in the selection of a gun should be paid to the form of the stock and the pull of the triggers ; if the former is unsuited to the shape of the purchaser, or the latter are stiff or dissimilar, the consequence will be utter failure that no amount of practice will remedy. If the pur- chaser's arms and neck are long, the stock may be long and crooked ; but if the contrary is the case, the stock must be short and straight. If possible, the person intending to use a gun should select it for himself; and if if does not "come up right " the first time he brings it to his eye, he should refuse it positively. He must not allow himself to 164 MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. be persuaded to try it again and again ; for after one or two trials he will instinctively adapt his eye to its construction, and will imagine the gun suits him an impression that the rapid flight of the first quail he endeavors to cover will dissipate. The triggers should give back at a weight of four or five pounds ; the hammers of a muzzle-loader at ten or twelve, and of a breech-loader at twelve or fourteen. For the former, the best cone is what is called the inverted, where the bore is larger at the top and receives the entire flame from the cap. The shape of the breech for the muzzle-loader for- merly gave rise to much learned, disquisition and many plausible theories ; but, in all probability, had no influence on the shooting, which is due mainly to the form and quality of the barrels. Joe Manton founded his fame on the idea that the lines offeree, if reflected from a hollow cup, like rays of light from a reflector, would be directed parallel to one ano- ther and lengthwise of the barrel ; but later expe- riments have tended to destroy this theory. The simple fact appears to be, that powder exerts just so much force, and, as it cannot escape sideways, it must go out at the end of the barrel ; and that the shape of the breech, except so far as it may affect the rapidity of ignition, has no influence whatever. These questions, however, are being effectually disposed of by the march of events and the general diffusion of breech-loaders ; to the latter, as they are not universally known or appreciated in our country to which, by its nature and its game, they are MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. 165 peculiarly adapted the writer's remarks will be mainly confined. Feeling entirely convinced, even from a short experience, of their superiority in most particulars, and their equality in all, he regards the consequence as inevitable that they will utterly supersede the old-fashioned fowling-piece; the few defects that were originally alleged to exist in them having been either removed or remedied, and the supply of ammunition for them in this country having become sufficient. They have won their way slowly into public favor against the interested opposition of gun-makers on one hand, and the igno- rance and superstitious dread of change of gun-users on the other. They are a French invention of forty years' standing, and proved their superiority long ago ; but prejudice was too strong for them, as it has been for many another good thing. Their merits, never- theless, slowly conquered opposition, convinced the intelligent, and confounded the obstinate; till at last in England the very hot-bed of prejudice and the favorite abiding-place of antiquated ideas there are now sold fifty breech-loaders to one muzzier loader. As they are not universally used with us, the description of them will have to be somewhat minute, and would be better understood if the reader would take the trouble to examine one for himself. The best and most generally adopted of the vari- ous kinds is the Lefaucheux, or some slight modi- fication of it; and to that the attention will be prin- cipally directed. In this gun the breech, which in 166 MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. the muzzle-loader screws into the barrel, is omitted, and the barrels are open at both ends; they are fastened to the stock by a pin and joint a few inches beyond the guard. When free, the muzzle hangs down, and the breech end presents itself several inches above the stock, so that the cartridge can be readily inserted ; when the barrels are pressed back into their place for firing, they are caught by a bolt that can be opened or closed by a lever lying along the under part of the stock, between the guard and the joint. The false breech is flat, solid, and heavy, and completes the barrels, taking the place and perform- ing the duty of the breech in the muzzle-loader. The hammers have a flat surface on the striking end, and the locks are back-actioned, to avoid interfering with the other mechanism. The pin cartridge is made of paper, shaped like a short section of the barrel, with a brass capsule on one end and open at the other; it is two or three inches long, and has a pad of thick paper beneath the capsule. In this pad a hole is punched on the inside and the percussion-cap is inserted, with a brass pin resting in it and projecting above the cap- sule on the outside. The percussion-cap is entirely within the cartridge-case, and the brass pin passes through a hole drilled in one side of the capsule, just large enough to admit it and exclude moisture entirely. A blow on the projecting end of the pin drives the other end into the cap, and discharges the latter. The cartridge-case is prepared already capped, and is sold in England for from thirty to MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. 167 fifty shillings the thousand ; it may be recapped by an instrument made for the purpose with, a peculiar cap, and may be used, on an average, three times. The cartridge must be loaded as the gun would be, only by the use of a short ramrod or a special loading implement ; the powder is poured in, a wad placed above it, and the shot and another wad follow. The cartridge may then be trimmed down and the end bent over, so as to retain the load securely, if it is to be carried for a considerable distance ; but where the shooting is from a boat or stand, the case should be left untrimmed and of full length. A chamber is cut away in the lower part of the barrel, which corresponds exactly with the cartridge-case, so that the latter fits perfectly in it ; but, if there is an interval between the end of the cartridge and the shoulder in the barrel, no injury to the charge or the shooting appears to result. A small notch is cut in the upper edge of the barrel to contain the brass pin, and allow it to project so as to receive the blow from the hammer. When the bolt is withdrawn and the barrels are allowed to fall so as to bring the open breech fairly into view, the loaded cartridge is inserted, the bar- rels are sprung back to their place with a sharp snap that sends them home at once, and are ready to be discharged. To allow the cartridge to be inserted, the hammers must be drawn to half or full cock; and when the trigger is pulled, they fall upon the pin, which penetrates the cap and fires the load. The entire mechanism is so simple that it can hardly 168 MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. become deranged, and will last as long as the bar rels. The greatest care is necessary in making the chamber that receives the cartridge of a proper shape, for if this is faulty the cartridges are apt to stick after explosion. There is no decided improvement on the original Lefaucheux model, except in the modification of the machinery, and a convenient method of separating the barrels from the stock ; and no other innovation of a like character need be particularly described. The needle-gun, which is made on a somewhat similar principle, is more curious than valuable, being both dangerous and complicated, and pos- sesses no advantages over the other pattern. In it the cartridge has a percussion-cap so disposed at its base that it is penetrated by a needle, which is pro- jected by a spring through a hole in the lower end of the cartridge ; but the composition of the cartridge, and the manner of its insertion, are altogether dif- ferent from the same in the Lefaucheux gun. According to the arrangement of some English guns, on a plan invented by Jeffries, the lever, instead of closing forward, lies under the trigger- guard, when the barrels are closed ; and provision is made for tightening the bolt, in case it wears loose by long usage. This invention permits of the use of forward-action locks, and the easy separation of the barrels from the stock, and has come into vogue in England; it is undoubtedly convenient in both these particulars, and has as yet developed no cor- responding drawbacks. MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. 169 Persoually, the writer has always preferred British to French or Belgian guns, although chance has compelled him to own as many of the latter as the former. The English gun is made for work ; even when cheaply manufactured, it will be found effec- tive where efficiency is necessary ; and it is far more beautiful to the eye of a true sportsman, with it a plain blued lock-plates, and total deficiency of orna- ment, than the Continental weapon, covered with engraving and ornamentation, but defective in some of those minutiae that lend nothing to its beauty, but add much to its usefulness. This is particularly the case with breech-loaders, which, if not manu- factured carefully, are almost useless, and which, although originally invented in France, are at this day produced in more serviceable style unless where the highest-priced article is obtained in Eng- land than in the country of their origin. Great dis- credit was brought upon breech-loaders among us at their first introduction, in consequence of the impor- tation of inferior articles, and they still labor under the disadvantages of that failure, although rapidly overcoming all objections. There are a few implements that are necessary to the use of a breech-loader, which are much simpler than they at first appear. To load the cartridge is required either a short ramrod and a machine for turning over the edges of the case upon the wad, to retain it in its place, or an apparatus, also invented by Jeffries, that combines all the requisites for load- ing, and by the aid of which a hundred cartridges 170 MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. can be loaded in an hour. As the case can be used several times, and the cap, which is of a peculiar size, has to be placed in its exact position to receive the pin, a capper invented for the purpose is em- ployed, by which the cap is inserted, and the pin pressed into it without the least difficulty; a pair of tweezers are used to withdraw the pin after a discharge, in order to free the old cap and make room for the new, and a large gimlet will be found useful for extracting any discharged caps that may happen to stick. A cleaning-apparatus is also occasionally used, consisting of a brush at one end of a string and a small weight at the other ; the weight is dropped through the open barrel and the brush drawn after it ; but, as the gun may be fired ten times as often as a muzzle-loader without fouling, a plain rag and cleaning-rod will answer. Cartridge-cases, of course, cannot be obtained like powder and shot at every country store, and to obviate the danger of finding oneself, after extraordinary good-luck with a gun, without the means of firing it, it is well to carry a couple of brass cases, which can be used with a common French cap, and reloaded in- definitely almost as quickly as a muzzle-loader. The sportsman, by the aid of these implements and a couple of scoops with handles for powder and shot, recaps the cartridges which have been discharged, loads them as he would a gun, only much more rapidly, and lays them aside for future use. In the field, he carries them in a leather case, MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. 171 or, which is the preferable plan, in a belt round the waist, or in his pockets, being able to store in the pockets of his vest alone at least twenty. The English sportsmen carry them loose in the pockets of their shooting-coats ; but a belt is convenient and commodious, holding from thirty to fifty, and dis- tributes the weight pleasantly. Where the shoot- ing is to be done from a boat or stand, of course they will be kept in an ammunition-box, without having their edges turned over, as there will be nothing to loosen the wads. The reader may naturally suppose that there is risk in carrying a number of loaded cartridges about the person ; but in this he is entirely mistaken. In the first place, the difficulty of discharging a car- tridge, except in the gun, is surprising ; no pressure will explode the cap, and no ordinary blow, unless the cartridge is retained in a fixed position ; and if one falls, the weight of the shot compels it inevi- tably to fall on the end : but in case these difficulties are overcome, the result is merely the discharge of a large fire-cracker. The writer instituted a number of experiments, and having succeeded, after many trials, in setting off the cartridge, found that the powder burst the paper, but failed to drive the wad out of the case. This was tried with cartridges in all positions, hori- zontal and perpendicular, but produced invariably the same result, with unimportant modifications; and it was further ascertained that the fire from one would not communicate to another. So that, if a 172 MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH LOADERS. cartridge does explode accidentally, it may scorch the clothes or even burn the person slightly, but can inflict no serious injury. These remarks, how- ever, do not apply to the brass cartridge-cases, which must be handled more carefully. The com- mon paper-cases may therefore be carried with per- fect impunity, and transported, if carefully packed, without risk. A more curious idea for the dread of danger from the loaded cartridge is natural prevailed .at one time, that the barrels were weakened because they were open behind, instead of being closed by the breech-screw ; as if a cylinder would be rendered more cohesive by screwing another piece of metal into one end. In fact, if the breech-screw has any effect whatever upon the strength of the gun. its presence is probably an injury. The charge, it will be observed, presses against the shot on one side and the false breech on the other, and would not be retained any more securely by the addition of a breech-screw, which tends to separate instead of closing the barrel. So, also, it must be borne iu mind there is no strain worth mentioning on the hinge-bolt, and no danger of the barrels blowing away with the charge ; while the disposal of the metal at the false breech, and the omission of the ramrod, tends to make the gun light at the muzzle a great advantage in snap-shooting. There is absolutely no escape of gas at the break- off ; none can escape unless the brass capsule, which closes the joint hermetically, can be driven out, and MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. 173 this is a sheer impossibility. The gas cannot pene- trate the paper of the cartridge, and if it bursts the latter, still cannot escape except through the brass ; and although the least perceptible amount may come out alongside of the pin, it is scarcely traceable, and nothing like what is lost at the percussion-cap in the common gun. These cartridges are wonderfully close, as the reader may conclude when he is in- formed that a loaded breech-loader, left entirely under water for fifteen minutes, was discharged as promptly as though it had never been wet ; while a muzzle-loader, that had not been half so long ex- posed, would not go at all, and required, an hour's cleaning. In fact, the breech-loader is entirely im- pervious to any ordinary wetting, will not fail in the worst rain, and the average number of miss-fires, in well made cartridges, is one in a thousand. In the handling of this gun there is one peculi- arity: the pins rise from the middle of the car- tridge, and not at one side, like the ordinary cones, thus bringing the hammers closer together. To the beginner this may appear awkward, but is no real disadvantage. It would seem also desirable to use more powder with a breech-loader, although this is not necessary to so great an extent as it was for- merly ; but, on the other hand, the weight at the breech appears either to diminish the recoil or reduce its effects on the shooter ; as the testimony of persons using breach-loaders is unanimous that the recoil is less perceptible than with muzzle-loaders, although the scales have refused to verify their impression. 174 MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. One immense advantage of the breech-loader is its safety in loading, especially in a confined posi- tion, as on a boat or in a battery. Whereas, in the muzzle-loader, immediately after the discharge, while the smoke is still pouring from the barrel, and while the fire may be smouldering invisible below, the sportsman deliberately pours in a fresh charge of powder, holding his hand and the entire flask over the muzzle, endangering Ids life, and incurring injury far more frequently than most persons sup- pose ; with the breech-loader, the barrels are opened and fall into such a position that no discharge can take place, and never point towards the person of their owner. Several of the writer's friends have been maimed for life by the premature discharge of a load in the muzzle-loader from a spark remaining in the barrel ; the risk connected with it has always seemed very great ; and even with the patent flasks, which are hardly practical inventions, more or less unavoid- able. This danger is entirely obviated by the breech- loader, which cannot go off until the barrels are restored to position after the charges are inserted ; cannot leave hidden sparks to imperil the owner's life or limb ; never expose the hand over the loaded barrel, that may have been left at half-cock, if the sportsman is liable to thoughtlessness or over-excitement ; and which can be loaded without difficulty in the most confined position. So, not only do we have rapidity, but entire safety in load- ing. MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. 17? The objections, however, urged against breech- loaders have not been few, and, if well founded, forbid the use of the gun ; if, as has been said, the target is not so good, nor the shot sent with as much force, the requisites of a first-class sporting impiement are wanting. These charges, freely ad- vanced, have been sustained in a measure by the wretched performance of poor guns, but were early been brought to the only true test actual experi- ence, under equal conditions ; and by this test have been so utterly annihilated that their discussion is only necessary on account of popular ignorance of the experiments. When breech-loaders first came prominently before the English public, their sup- posed merits and demerits were discussed in the sporting papers in an animated and violent manner ; and in order to settle the questions at issue, the editor of the London Field determined to have an open trial, where the breech-loaders and muzzle- loaders could be fairly matched against one another. The contests took place in 1858 and 1859, and being carefully conducted, settled the dispute for the time being, and, even before the latest improvements, established more fully the superiority of the breech- loader. The best guns and gun-makers of England were represented ; and in spite of occasional varia- tion and accidental luck as in the pattern of the first muzzle-loader the prejudices against the mo- dern arm were so entirely dissipated that the old- fashioned guns are at present rarely sold. Since that trial considerable advance has been 178 MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADER^. made in the minutiae of the manufacture ; and now it is the general impression of those acquainted with the arm, that the breech-loader, with a slight addi- tional increase of powder, shoots both stronger and closer than its rival. In the pigeon-matches, with scarcely an exception, held both in this country, of late years, as well as in Great Britain, where it is to be supposed that the best implements the country could furnish would be used, and where some of the shooting was done at thirty yards, the favorite and most successful weapons have been breech- loaders. With all allowance for the quality of the marksman, the quality of the gun that wins a match at English ''blue-rocks" must unquestionably be good ; and this, the universal experience of those matter-of-fact John Bulls, who test everything by success, has entirely confirmed. A trial of guns was made in 1859, and the results were published in tabular form in The Shot-Gun and Sporting Rifle, by Stonehenge, p. 304. The targets were made of double bag-cap paper, 90 Ibs. to the ream, circular, thirty inches in diameter, with a centre of twelve inches square, and were nailed against a smooth surface of deal boards. The centres were composed of forty thicknesses for forty yards, and twenty for sixty yards, and weighed eighteen and nine ounces respectively, with such slight varia- tion as will always occur in brown paper. The powder was Laurence's No. 2, the shot No. 6, con- taining 290 pellets to the ounce, and the charges were weighed in every instance. MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. 179 1 W ' : * 2^ K g S g 3 g S g S N*. e. f s r t r s ; TT r ; s s ?. o* 0*2 o" 5" o" Kind of Gun. *cototocooso-. to cococotococoicto to Bore. l2lgl gggggggg ? Length of Barrel. bo if* i(^ oo *^ *. iti t-* ' oo toccboca i- 1 O t^-O l-i !, b z ; Weight of Gun. CO f co co co eo co to co to to co to eo co eo to to to ^\ it^ .\ i\ "\ " Charge of Powder. (73 (* s Charse of Shot. o b=l s 09 ca^oooeo icoo icai ^cootf^i itf^ m 1 g = H3 S 00 1 -C;iOtCO COW COCOOtSCO S g 1 o - W tel 8 co to co eo co to en co to to *. o> o> co *. o> o l-i -1 tO H- fcO CH *- *- -4 W tO 01 tO CO 1 ll 6 *- tO tO 10 *>. CO CO ^J,-iO5COOOtl&.05 Ci ooo oootoii-' a* C/-KJJOOOI o 0. sr tO tO tO CO tO CO tC tO tO c tO tC 1C to re tO tO cno.^cotoooto c;aoCKco oo fgas G to eo to to to *- to co co eo co co eo co to to eo co I-L -M ex a> -< to if- o i co >-! o oo to co 1 |la H g HI Ol-tOOOOtOO O O *k. tO bO O l-i M CX 1 If** B*O " O i i OOl-^OO-^OO i MOOCOrf^tOi-ilO tO gi 2.W 5 o STsr tr 1 i 10 1C bO tO tO tO tO tO re tO CO CO CO CO CO CO Total on face of 4 targets. 3 1^ C^ C2^ ^T 4^ "^ ^- -' C^Ci^JOiCiCiCKCH O 55 to tb x co to *. oo to oo n* 1-1 o & co oo Tot'l thro'gh 4 targets. S 2S23$gfs 88|3_|8S S sS o B S SS382|2 8g|s'jlg 8 180 MUZZLE-LOADERS AND BREECH-LOADERS. tn &H i^ o CO H t-q M <1 EH eoty n OS fil II jo 9g.ii[o I to o * co ^< - si MI o as -^ co 1-1 as or oo COCO^OCOt COCOO jo jo oiog r-i en o co MI =v c<> a OCCOCOt T^Tt KSO OfHr-ieOOOOOOO 00 t eoooooo OJ OS> CO CO (M CM rH CO Ml 1O * CO tl a 2 i i-i CO CO SO t Cft O (N 1C rH ooooioooosrac' 4 iO ^i OS b- T-l C oes>ost-t- ooo cic-i :c cc ci cc(MO*j c-i H O T- CO MJ O O CO Ml '** r OGpt- 1-H C* O C: OS O O O 00 CO&IIM CO horter one into its body. It may then be stood up in the sand k 202 BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. and will make a decoy scarcely distinguishable by man from the living prototype, but apparently more unnatural to the birds which are sometimes alarm- ed at its ghastly appearance than the ordinary stools. Very perfect stools are made of India-rubber, which, being compressible and light, can be readily transported, and are a deceptive imitation ; their principal defects are their liability to injury from shot which is also the case with wooden ones and the facility with which the hole where their long leg is inserted becomes torn an accident that entirely destroys their usefulness. They can be packed in a small compass, and are infinitely the best article where they are to be carried long distances. Al- though of necessity undersized, their full plump shape makes them visible at a considerable distance. To prevent the bills, which are the most delicate part, from being injured, it is necessary to make them rather thicker than those of the living bird ; they are to be painted dark-brown, blue, or grey, ac- cording to circumstances ; and their loss, although it may not diminish the attractiveness, destroys the beauty of the fictitious flock. More important than perfection of decoys, is accuracy in whistling ; this should be a perfect imitation and answer to the call of the bird, and will often allure him to the fowler without any decoys whatever. It is impossible to describe the calls on paper, and long practice will alone give a thorough knowledge of them ; they are generally shrill and loud ; the shriller and louder the BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. 203 better for man's best efforts will rarely equal the bird's natural powers. The yelper has a clear, bold cry, and the willet a fierce shriek that can be heard for miles ; and if listened to from a distance, it will be found that the bird's call can be heard twice the distance of the man's answer. It is true that when the snipe are near at hand and about alighting, a lower whistle is better, for the reason that it is more perfect, and because the cry changes to a note oi welcome when the flock receives its fellows. And often, when the birds once head for the stools, if not distracted by neighboring stands, or alarmed, they Avill come straight on without any whistling, although this is by no means invariably the case. Many persons find insuperable difficulty in whis- tling the clear, shrill, sharp calls ; and for them arti- ficial whistles have been manufactured with a hole at the lower end, which, being opened or closed by the finger, like the holes in a flute, regulates the sound. These artificial whislles are not so good as a perfectly trained natural one ; the sound is not sufficiently reed-like, and they occupy and confine one hand when it should be free to seek the gun. They are suspended from the button-hole by a string, so that they can be dropped in an instant ; but are only used out of necessit}'. A curious one, to be held in the mouth, has been invented of a wedge-shaped piece of tin in the form of an axe-head, with two holes through the sides. The sound is regulated by the tongue, and is alto- gether more correct than that of any other whistle ; 204 BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. but more time and patience are required to learn the use of this invention than of the lips. It will be far better for the sportsman who intends to pursue this sport, to practise with the organs that nature has given him, however much time or perseverance may be necessary, and then there will be no danger of leaving his whistle at home. As before remarked, the great drawback to the sport of shooting bay-snipe is its uncertainty ; if the flight has not come on, or a westerly wind has driven the birds to sea, or a heavy north-easter carries them with it high in air and prevents their stopping there Avill be no shooting ; and the most experienced hand will often receive the comforting assurance which is always bestowed upon the inexperienced, that if he had only come two weeks sooner, or de- ferred his visit two weeks longer, he would have been sure of fine sport. There are nevertheless cer^ tain general rules that furnish a tolerable criterion ; and laying aside the spring shooting, which occurs in May, and is extremely uncertain, the main flight of small birds such asdowitchers and yellow-legs commences about the tenth of July, and of large birds about the fifteenth of August. Each lasts about two weeks. The flight of large birds usually termin-ates with a short flight of yellow-legs, and is followed by the plover, which are succeeded by the kriekers. An easterly storm generally brings the birds, either by bearing them from their northern homes, or by forc- ing them in from the sea, where the mnin body is BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. 205 supposed to fly ; and if such a storm occur at eithei of these periods, and be succeeded by a south-wester- ly wind, it will surely be followed by an abundance of the appropriate birds. During an easterly blow they will be seen passing by Point Judith in nn almost unbroken line ; and after it, they abound throughout the whole length of the coast, as though they had been carried to all parts of it at once. But if no such storm occur, the catching the flight is a mere chance ; and where the summer has been dry, the snipe will be scarce. If the meadows have been kept moist by continual showers, there Avill be a moderate supply of game the summer through ; but if there has been a drought, the surface becomes too hard for the snails and in- sects to inhabit, or for the birds to penetrate ; a scar- city of food results, and there will be no flight what- ever. Scattering birds, wandering away from their fel- lows and exhausted with hunger, delighted at be- holding their friends apparentty feeding, will be killed perhaps in numbers sufficient to make now and then a decent bag ; but what is known as the " flight" when the great army moves its vast co- horts, division after division, regiment after regiment, company after company will not take place. How they reach the south no one can accurately tell ; they either fly inland or out at sea high in the air, or late at night ; but their returning myriads in the spring following, prove that in some way they did reach their southern winter homes. 200 BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. Notwithstanding the. greatest experience, and de- spite the most favorable signs, the oldest gunner will find that more or less uncertainty exists in obtaining sport, and that his imlucky expeditions generally out- number his lucky ones. Often a flight will commence unexpectedly and without any apparent reason ; and a change of weather, after a long continuance of wind from one quarter, will be followed by good shooting for some days, although such weather is not intrinsically favorable. The follower of bay- birds must therefore make up his mind to disap- pointment, and on such occasions live on his hopes for the future, or his recollections of the past. For this sport a heavy gun, such as is commonly employed for ducks, is not at all necessary ; inasmuch as many of the birds are small and the flocks fre- quently scattered, it is rarely desirable to use two ounces of shot and five drachms of powder ; and to fire such a charge at a solitary dowitcher, as is often done, is simply ridiculous. A light field-gun, with an ounce and a quarter of shot and three drachms and a half of powder, (or, as I prefer, an ounce of shot and three drachms of powder,) is amply sufficient will confer more pleasure and require more skill in the use, will cut down a reasonable number from a flock, and will kill a single bird handsomely. The gun should be kept at half-cock, and may be laid upon a bench beside the sportsman ; there is always time to cock it, even if a flock is not seen till it is over the stools ; and a gun at full cock in a stand, is a danger that no reasonable man will encounter. BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. 207 In field-shooting, I do not approve of carrying the gun at half-cock, believing, for certain reasons un- necessary here to repeat, that it is less dangerous at full-cock ' } but in a stand or in a house, or in fact anywhere but in the field where it is always in the sportsman's hand, it should be never otherwise than at half-cock. It is common to pass in front of guns lying on the bench in the stand, and they often fall off, and are usually reached for by the sportsman while his eye is on the advancing flock, and does not note whether his hand grasps the barrel or the trig- gers ; and there is an excitement, when the flight is rapid, sufficiently perilous of itself in connexion with fire-arms, without uselessly increasing it. Every precaution should therefore be taken ; and if by acci- dent the gun which cannot go off at half-cock shall be discharged in cocking or uncocking it, it will point forward, away from the stand, and in such a direction that injury to human life cannot follow. Next in importance to care in preventing the gun's injuring a fellow-creature, is care in prevent- ing its being injured. The least dampness, whether from fog or rain, and even the salt air alone, will rust the delicate steel and iron, and, penetrating farther and farther, make indentations that will spoil its beauty and injure its effectiveness permanently. To prevent this, oil frequently applied is the only reme- dy ; a rag well oiled, and a bottle to replenish from, should be among the ordinary equipments, and in- variably taken to the shooting-ground ; the first symptom of rust or even discoloration should be re- 208 BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. moved, and every portion of the iron-work kept well lubricated. At night a waterproof covering should be used, and the charge invariably left un- drawn, as the dirt prevents oxydization for a time ; and during a rain the utmost care should be taken to protect, if not the entire gun, at least the locks and trigger-plate. Kerosene oil is excellent to remove rust, but is too thin to form a coating, and not so good a protection as sweet or whale oil. Varnish is highly recommended, but I have never known any one to try it ; and in case no oil can be obtain- ed, the gunners on Long Island are in the habit of shooting a small snipe, which is often extremely fat, and using its skin as an oiled rag. Of course with a breech-loader the charge is with- drawn, and the cleaning apparatus may be forced through every evening, although this is unnecessary, asthe dirt is rather a protection : and after thecleaning, whether of the muzzle-loader or breech-loader, the barrels should be well oiled both inside and out. If, however, the gun is to be left for a long time unused and exposed to salt air, a piece of greasy rag wound upon a stick may be thrust into the barrels to the bottom, and oil should be liberally applied to the ex- posed parts. Moreover, the locks, however well they may fit, will be injured after a while, and should be removed and examined occasionally. The size of shot used should be changed according to the season and character of the flight ; in July, when the yellow- legs and dowitchers are. the principal victims, No. 8 is abundantly large ; but in August, when curlews, BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. 209 marlin, and willets are flying, all of which are able to endure severe punishment, No. 6 is preferable. Eley's cartridges are often useful with grass-plover, although they ball so frequently that the majority of sportsmen have lost faith in them. Favorable seasons for snipe, when heavy or re- peated rains have saturated the meadows, and filled every hollow with stagnant pools of dirty water, are also favorable for mosquitoes. Persons who suffer from the bites of this pestiferous insect and the difference beUveen individuals upon this subject is remarkable should prepare themselves with mos- quito-nets and ill-scented oils, as they would for a visit to the wild woods ; while those who are much affected by the sun should bring unguents with which to temper its intensity and assuage the pain that its burning rays inflict. Shoes are the proper things for the feet, as boots become heated and uncomfortable ; and a brown linen jacket with white flannel pantaloons, thick enough to resist the attacks of a mosquito, and with the necessary underclothes for an exceptionally cold day, constitute the most practical rig. If the sportsman use a muzzle-loader which he should not do if he can afford to buy a breech- loader he must have a loading-stick which he can extemporize from his cleaning-rod by substituting a ramrod head for the jag. This he docs by simply having a piece of brass of the proper size and shape to screw into the place of the latter. He should also have two guns, or he loses the chance at the return- 210 BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. ing flock, which is the most exciting, as it is oftcr. the most successful shot. The powder should be coarse ; the large grain of the ducking-powder being alone fitted to withstand the deleterious effects of the moisture that is an inva- riable concomitant of the salt atmosphere of tho ocean. One great difficulty that the writer has encoun- tered in preparing this work, is .a proper selection of names the natural history of our country is popu- larly so little understood; to copy English names and apply them to creatures bearing a faint resem- blance in general coloring, though neither in habits nor scientific distinctions, was so natural to the first immigrants, and the introduction of a proper appel- lation is so nearly impossible, that the confusion in nomenclature of our birds, beasts, and fishes is hardly surprising. This confusion existing in every depart- ment of natural history confounding fish of all vari- eties, leaving birds nameless, or giving them too many names culminates among the bay-snipe. Although the bony-fish or mossbunkers of New York become the menhaden of the Eastern States, and king-fish are transformed into barb in New Jersey, and perch become pickerel in the west there are rarely more than two names, and every fish has some designation ; but with bay-snipe, after an infinite multiplication of names for certain species, others are left entirely unnamed. Many that are frequently killed are without a popular designation, and more still are called frost-birds, .and meadow- BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. 211 snipe, and beach-birds names that might with justice be applied to the entire class, and which are so utterly confused, that persons from different sections of the country do not know what others are talking about. To make matters worse, the scientific gen- tlemen have stepped in, and after indulging in plenty of bad Latin, have added fresh English appellations, more unmeaning and less appropriate if possible than the common ones. From this mass of incongruities the writer has endeavored, while preserving the best name, to select the one in general use, bearing in mind that names are mere substitutes, and not descriptive adjectives. The name frost-bird or frost-snipe which belongs to entirely different creatures is applicable to every bird that appears after a frost, and as nearly a hundred varieties are in this category, it is not distinctive ; the names meadow-snipe and beach-bird are ridicu- lous, but the latter, being applied to an unimportant class, is allowed to stand. The snipe that is herein called a krieker, or, as it may be spelled, creaker, which utters a hoarse, creaking note, is called in vari- ous places meadow-snipe although most of the bay- birds haunt the meadows ; fat-bird, whereas others are equally fat ; and short neck, in spite of the fact that its neck is longer than some species; while ornithologists call it pectoral sandpiper, probably because it has a breast. So also with the brant-bird, which is called on the coast of New Jersey horsefoot- snipe, because it feeds on the spawn ot the horse- foot ; notwithstanding that the yellow-legs and seve- 212 BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. rail others do the same. The name, however, is not satisfactory on account of .its similarity to the brant or brent-goose ; and probably the scientific desig- nation, turnstone, if it were at all in common acceptation, would be better. It is to be hoped these names will at some day be harmonized by universal consent, and these pages will at least make mutual comprehension open the way for that desirable result. The sickle-bill, jack-curlew, marlin, willet, golden- plover, yelper, dowitcher, and krieker, are excellent; and the ring-tailed marlin, black-breast plover, yel- low-legs, and robin-snipe, are at least descriptive. Were these generally accepted, a simple and tole- rably accurate system of nomenclature would be obtained; and it has been my effort, while placing the preferable name at the head of the description of each variety, to collate all the other names that in any section of our vast territory are applied to the same bird. In this attempt I can only be partially successful; for the ingenuity of the American people in coining new names, added to a profound ignorance of ornithology, has produced a confusion that no one man can reduce to order. Bay-snipe, except the plovers, kriekers, and a few others, are not considered delicate eating, contract- ing along the salt marshes a sedgy flavor ; but on the shores of the western lakes, where the fresh water appears to remove this peculiarity, the yellow- legs and yelpers which are often found in consi- derable numbers, and are called by the general appellation of plovers are almost equal in tender, BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. 215 juicy delicacy to the English snipe. Whether the same change is noticeable in the larger varieties, I cannot say of my own knowledge. The gunners have an ingenious way of stringing them in bunches of a half dozen each, on the longest feathers taken from their wings, a pair of these being tied together by the feather ends, and the quillpoints thrust through the nostrils of the birds. It is desi- rable to put them up in small bunches, as under the warm temperature of summer they will, unless every precaution is exercised, soon become tainted. To prevent this, the entrails should also be carefully removed without disturbing the plumage ; and a little salt, or, as many persons recommend, coffee, rubbed inside, and they should be at all times care- fully protected from the sun. Their sedgy flavor grows stronger with every day they are kept ; and being extremely oily, the least taint renders them, together with all the wild inhabitants of the coast, unfit for food. Bay-snipe are essentially migratory, rarely stop- ping on our shores to build their nests and rear their young ; during the spring months they pass to or beyond the coast of Labrador, and attend to the duties of maternity in the vast levels and swamps that surround Hudson's Bay, and constitute a large portion of the northern part of British North Ame- rica. In my ramblings through the Provinces, I was frequently informed that they abounded during the latter part of summer on the marshes near the Bay Chaleur in New Brunswick. This must evidently 210 BAY- SNIPE SHOOTING. have been during their return flight; but whether they were our bay-birds in their vast variety, or whether they were merely the flocks of golden plover that follow the Avinding of the coast and sub- sequently visit Nantucket and Montauk Point, I had no opportunity to determine by personal experience. With us they make their appearance in the neigh- borhood of Boston Bay, and thence they are found, with various intermissions, caused by the nature of the ground, all the way to the State of Texas. The innumerable bays, sounds, and lagoons of our South- ern States, inclosed by broad meadows and includ- ing thousands of marshy islands, are their favorite feeding-grounds, and are visited by them in unnum- bered thousands. The larger varieties may be seen there all through the fall quietly feeding, and scarce- ly noticing the approach of man. In Texas they seem to congregate in vast bodies, and probably move off to or beyond the equator in the early winter months, although, this has never been positively as- certained. They are not killed as game south of Virginia, and rarely south of New Jersey ; in fact, it may be said that only on Cape Cod, Long Island, and the shore line of New Jersey, are they scientifically pur- sued. At these places the sport has greatly dimi- nished of late years ; a few years ago Barmstable beach was a celebrated resort ; and at Quog;ie, parties used no stools, but stationed themselves along the narrow neck that connects the beach with the main land, and fired till their guns were dirty or their am- BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. 317 munition exhausted, Then it was no unusual thing to expend twenty-five pounds of shot in a day, where now the sportsman that could use up five would be fortunate. Of all the locations on this extent of meadow and beach, no place is so famous, from its natural advan- tages and its ancient reputation, as Quogue. Once on a time the best pond was permanently occupied by a famous Governor, a still more famous General, and a notorious Colonel although the latter was not " in the bond ;" but there are other good stands, and for small birds yellow-legs, dowitchers, and robin-snipe it has no equal. Although many flocks pass it high in air, all those that follow the coast, low down to the earth, must cross the meadows that are com- pressed to a narrow strip at this point, which is the dividing-ground between the two great bays on the south side of Long Island. Unfortunately, a watering-place for the summer resort of the exquisites of New York has been es- tablished in the vicinity, and the consequent advan- tages of comfortable beds and a good table are more than overborne by the annoyance of such companion- ship. If there be a flight of birds, every unfledged sportsman takes out his elegant fowling-piece, and, daintily dressed, proceeds to the meadow, where he would be comparatively harmless, and dangerous only to himself, were there room for him and his fellows. But as the ground is limited, and the favorable points few, he is sure to interfere ; and, while killing nothing himself, ruins the prospects of those 218 BAY-SNIPE SHOOTING. who could do better. At Quogue, decoys were first used about the year 1850, and the best day's sport of late was one hundred and thirty-eight birds. West of Quogue there are some snipe, and occa- sionally a good flight at South Oyster Bay, and more rarely still at Rockaway ; but the large birds are not numerous north of New Jersey. Squan Beach, Barnegat, Egg Harbor, and Brigantine Beach are famous for the large birds the sickle-bills, cur- lews, willets, and marlius that visit them ; the same number of shots cannot be obtained as at Quogue, but the bag is larger. At the former places there is also a flight, of greater or less extent, of dowitchers and yellow-legs, but these are not so abundant as along the margin of the Great South Bay of Long Island. On the other hand, a bag of one hundred of the larger varieties is not unusual; while at Egg Harbor the robin-snipe, which affect marshy islands are exceedingly numerous. Twenty years ago there was good bay-snipe shoot- ing at what is termed "Fire Island," and even in the year 1883 there was a remarkable flight late in the fall. But the cry of old George, which the gunners of "long ago " welcomed in their youth, is never heard now; George and his salutation have departed, and "Wake up, all them as is goin' sniping" is a thing of the past. CHAPTER IV. THE JEBSEY COAST. " A Girl from New Jersey" WHY is it that every one who visits New Jersey comes away with an ecstatic impression of Jersey girls that he never can forget ? Lovely they are, it is true, but not more beautiful than other fair ones of America ; affable, gentle, graceful, sprightly but these qualities are common in our angel-favored country. -Yet no one that has been blessed with their company can forget them, but carries for ever in his heart the image of one, if not two or three, Jersey girls. These reflections were suggested to the writer by the recollection of his first trip, many years ago, to the Jersey coast. The summer had been oppres- sively hot, and being detained in town during the fore part of August, he was glad to avail himself of the first chance to escape from the city and betake himself to the cool, invigorating breezes of the sea- shore. Not knowing precisely what route to follow, he trusted himself on board the train without any definite destination, and, upon inquiry, was informed that a good place for bay-shooting was- at Tommy Cook's, near the coast, and about four miles from 220 THE JERSEY COAST. one of the last stations on the road, where, under the charge of the Quaker host, considerable com- fort could be had. To Cook's, therefore, upon reaching the station, the writer told the driver of what seemed to be a mongrel public coach, that he wanted to go ; but in thoughtlessness, never conceiving that there could be two Cooks, he omitted the Tommy that should have preceded the direction. His surprise was by no means moderate to find, upon reaching his destina- tion, the supposed Quaker host slightly inebriated, dancing a solitary hornpipe to an admiring circle. Thinking perhaps that that was the custom of Jersey Quakers for the State is exceptional in certain things he took a glass of bad whiskey with the jovial landlord, made proposals, much to every one's surprise, to go shooting the day following, and re- tired early. Next morning a short walk dissipated all idea of finding game, and having made the discovery that he was still fifteen miles from the proper shooting- ground on the beach, he returned to the house, and in order to enjoy a few hours ere the wagon for his further transportation would be ready, joined a bathing party. It was quite a sociable affair ; both sexes, dressed in their bathing clothes the girls without shoes crowded down in the bottom of an open wagon. But surely it is not fair to tell how one of the flannel-encased nymphs nearly fell from the wagon, and was caught in the arms of the writer, who had jumped out for the purpose ; nor how the THE JERSEY COAST. 221 rest drove off to leave them ; nor how he bore his lovely burden plastic grace and beauty personified bravely in pursuit ; nor how his foot chanced to trip accidentally, of course and they fell and rolled in the sand together. If he would tell, he could not ; words do not exist for the purpose. He had, however, all he could do to explain the accident and pacify the nymph. If she had known how much of solidity there was in her love- liness, and how little of romance in the deep yield- ing sand, she might have more readily accepted the excuse of weariness. If the grasshopper becomes a burden under certain circumstances, Avhy may not a naiad ? The road to the beach lay through a village for- merly known by the euphonious and distinctive title of Crab Town a village of a thousand inhabitants. It was evening ere Crab Town was reached, and just beyond, the driver came upon a bevy of female acquaintances. In a moment the suggestion was made that they should ride; after a little demur they accepted, and were crowded in. The stage was not large, but there would have been room if they had been twice as numerous ; they filled every seat, and every lap besides. There are days in one's lifetime that should be celebrated as anniversaries ; and if any gentleman has carried in his arms, albeit with true tenderness, one charming Jersey girl in the morning, and has had another equally charming sit on his lap in the evening, he may look upon that day as never -likely to repeat itself. 222 THE JERSEY COAST. There was a hum of pleasant voices words like, "Oh! Deb, we should not have got in;" "Why, Mary, we may as well ride it's all in our way." '' But these gentlemen are strangers, and may think it wrong of us." "Oh, Lib, don't talk that way; they know better." We assured them that nothing could be more perfectly proper. So situated, the ride appeared very short, and the next mile, which was as far as our delightful freight would go, was passed seemingly in about a minute and a half, decidedly the fastest time on record. At the end of it, on a suggestion from the driver, who lived in that section and knew the country, toll was taken of their rosy lips as passage-money. Jersey is a glorious place. Passing Charley's, as he is generally called, the son of the old man, who for years was famous as the first hunter in that land, we turned off beyond, down the beach. The bay between the mainland and the sand-bar, known everywhere as " The Beach," was narrow, widening slowly as we advanced, until, at the end of our seven miles' journey, it was nearly three miles across. There was little vegetation be- side salt grass and bay-berry bushes ; but of the animal kingdom the only representatives the mos- quitoes were thicker than the mind of man can conceive ; they rose in crowds, pursuing us fiercely, covering the horses in an unbroken mass, settling upon ourselves, flying into our eyes, crawling upon our necks, stinging through our clothes, and filling the air. Although small, they were hungry be- THE JERSEY COAST. 223 yond belief, and, following their prey relentlessly, compelled us to fight them off with bushes of bay- berry for our lives. Mosquitoes are found plentifully at our summer watering-places, and still more numerously in the wild woods, grow abundantly in Canada, and are over-plentiful at Lake Superior ; but nowhere are they so merciless, fierce, and numerous, as, on occa- sions, at the New Jersey beach. They are a beauti- ful little creature, delicate, graceful, and elegant, but obtrusive in their attentions; although the ardent lover was anxious to be bitten by the same mosquito that had bitten his lady-love, that their blood might mingle in the same body. One good effect they had, however, was to com- pel the driver to urge on his weary team, and leave him no time to gossip at Jakey's Tavern, over the beach party that was to be held there next day. A beach party is another delightful institution of the Jcrseyites, and consists of a congregation of the youths of both sexes, especially the female, collected from the main shore, and meeting on the beach for a frolic, a dance, and a bath. As it rarely breaks up till daylight, the pleasantest intimacies are some- times formed, and soft words uttered that could not be wrung from blushing beauty in broad day. The establishment of the " old man" the sporting " old man," not the political one since he has been gathered to his forefathers, is kept up by his son-in- law, usually known by the abbreviation Bill. It is not an elegant place ; sportsmen do not demand 224 THE JERSEY COAST. elegance, and willingly sleep, if not in the same room, in chambers that lead into one another ; but it is situated within a hundred yards of the best shooting ground, and is as well kept as any other tavern on the beach. Sportsmen do not mind- Availing their turn to use the solitary wash basin, drawing water from the hogshead, or wiping on the same towel, but are thankful for good food, and the luxury of a well filled ice-house. In addition to the general directions heretofore given, it may be well in this connexion to describe more particularly the mode of killing bay-snipe. A number of imitation birds, usually called stools, are cut from wood, and painted to resemble the various species ; they have a long stick, or leg, inserted into the lower part of the body, and a sufficient number to constitute a large flock arc set up in shallow water, or upon some bar where the birds are accus- tomed to feed. They are made from thin wood, or even from tin, and are headed various ways so as to show in all directions ; the coarsest and least perfect imitations will answer. The most remarkable trait of the shore birds, or bay-snipe, is their gregarious nature and sociability. A flock flying high in air, apparently intent upon some settled course, Avil!, the moment they see ano- ther flock feeding, turn and join it. Their natural history, or the object which they evidently have in thus joining forces, does not seem to be understood ; but the baymen, by imitation-birds and calls, take advantage of this instinct. Farther south, along the THE JERSEY COAST. 225 shores of Florida and Texas, these snipe collect in crowds; and either this is the first step towards that purpose, or they are merely attracted by the feeding birds to a promising place for a plentiful repast. Although ordinarily they will come to the stools of themselves, if they happen to be at a distance fly- ing fast and high, the gunner must trust to the shrillness of his whistle and the perfection of his call, to attract their attention. If they turn towards the decoys and answer the Avhistle which they will do at an immense distance they are almost sure to come straight .on, and their confidence once gained, rarely wavers. There is a common expression among the bay- men, that birds have a trade, or are trading up and down over a certain course, by which they mean that they fly backward and forward at regular hours, and to and from regular places. Snipe that are thus engaged trading arc not only in the finest con- dition, but come to the decoys, or stool, as it is term- ed, the most readily. They are probably stopping on the meadows, and fly to their feeding-grounds in the morning and back at night. The great migra- tory bodies, which frequently stretch in broken lines almost across the horizon, and which are pursu- ing their steady course to their southern homes, rarely heed the whistle, or turn to the silly flock that is eating while it should be travelling. The best days are those with a cloudy sky, and a ^outh-westerly wind. On such occasions the birds often come in myriads, delighting the sportsman's 22G THE JERSEY COAST* heart, testing his nerves, and filling his bag to reple- tion. When the object is to kill the greatest num- ber possible, they are permitted to alight among the stools and collect together before the gun is fired ; then the first discharge is followed rapidly by the second, which tears among their thinned ranks as they rise; and, if there be a second gun, by the third and fourth barrel, till frequently all are killed. The scientific and sportsmanlike mode is to fire before they alight, selecting two or three together and fir- ing at the foremost. It is a glorious thing to see a flock of marlin or willet, or perhaps the chief of all, the sickle-bills, SAverve from their course away up in the heavens, and after a moment's uncertainty reply to the sports- man's deceitful call and turn towards his false copies of themselves. As they approach, the rich sienna brown of the marlin and curlew seems to color the sky and reflect a ruddy hue upon surrounding ob- jects ; or the black and white of the barred wings of the willet makes them resemble birds hewn from veined marble. The sportsman's heart leaps to his throat, as crouching down with straining eye and nerve, grasping his faithful gun, he awaits with eager anxiety the proper moment ; then, rising ere they are aware of the danger, he selects the spot where their crowding bodies and jostling wings shut out the clouds beyond, and pours in his first most deadly barrel ; and quickly bringing to bear the other as best he may among the now frightened creatures as they dart about, he delivers it before he THE JERSEY COAST. 227 has noticed how many fell to the first. Dropping back to his position of concealment, he recommences Avhistling, and the poor things, forgetting their fright and anxious to know why their friends alighted amid a roar like thunder, return to the fatal spot, and again give the fortunate sportsman a chance for his reloaded gun. It was for such glorious sport as this, with fair promise of success for the flight was on, as the say- ing is, when the snipe are moving that I prepared myself the next morning. Rising at earliest day- break, a friend, the gunner, and myself sallied out to the blind, and having set out our stools, possessed our souls in patience for what might follow. A blind is another ingenious invention of the devil as per- sonified by a bayman, in pursuit of wild fowl and is constructed by planting bushes thickly in a circle round a bench. Seated upon this bench and con- cealed from the suspicious eyes of the snipe by the dense foliage of the bayberry bushes, the sportsman, in comparative comfort, awaits his prey. In less civilized localities he hides himself among the long sedge grass, or scoops out a hole in the sand and lies at length upon a waterproof blanket. The wind had hauled, in nautical language, to the southward and west'ard, and the sun's rays driving aside the hazy clouds, illuminated the eastern sky with fiery glory. The land and water, dim with the heavy night fog, stretched out in broad, undefined outline, and the heavens seemed close down upon the earth. Through the hazy atmosphere and slug- 228 THE JERSEY COAST. gish darkness the rays of light penetrated slowly, bringing out feature after feature of the landscape, lighting the tops of distant hills, and revealing the fleecy coursers of the sky. Amid the fading darkness we soon heard the welcome cry of the bay-snipe pursuing his course, guided by light that had not yet reached our portion of the earth's surface. Instantly we responded with a vigor and rapidity on behalf of each, that must have impressed the travelling birds with the belief that we constituted an immense flock. Again and again, long before our straining eyes could catch the outline of their forms, came the answering cry. Our eagerness increased with the approaching sound, until from out the dim air rushed a glorious flock of marbled willet, and swooping down to our stools dropped their long legs to alight we feeling as though little shining goddesses were descending upon us. Without pausing to discuss their angelic character, but mercilessly bringing our double-barrels to bear upon the crowded ranks, we poured in a destructive broadside that hurled a dozen upon the bloodied sand. Startled at the fearful report and its terrible consequences, they rose, darting and crossing in their alarm, and fled at full speed ; but hearing again the familiar call, after flying a few hundred yards, they turned and came once more straight for the decoys. Then my friend thought highly of me and my breech-loading gun, for ere he had reloaded I had discharged my two barrels three times, adding THE JERSEY COAST. 229 six birds to those already upon the sand. Eighteen wiliet from the first flock, and ere the sun was fairly up, gave us a good start ; and after the birds were gathered, the favorable send-off was duly celebrated in a few drops of water with enough spirit to take the danger out. And now myriads of swallows made their appear- ance, skimming close along the water, but in one steady course, as though they were going out for the day, and would not be back till night-fall. They were followed by scattering snipe that furnished neat but easy shooting till six o'clock, when the regular flight began with a splendid flock of marlin that came rapidly from the south'ard, and after hovering over the stools and giving us one chance, returned for two more favors from the breech-loader, and left sixteen of their number. Sportsmen of any experience know that nothing is easier than to select from a flock a single bird with each barrel ; but in bay-shooting, a man who claims to excel, must kill several with the first bar- rel, and one, at least, with the second. If, however, to the ordinary excitement be added the natural emulation arising from the presence of several sports- men in the same stand, the foregoing desirable result is not always attained. If, therefore, the reader shrewdly suspects we should have killed more birds than we did, let him place himself in a similar position, and record his success. Shore birds of the various species, beginning with the magnificent sickle-bill, and including the wary 230 THE JERSEY COAST. jack-curlew, the noisy, larger yellow-legs or yelper, and the smaller one, down to the pretty simple- hearted dowitcher, went to make up our morning's bag. The scorching snn when it hung high over our heads stopped the flight, and, aided by venomous mosquitoes, drove us to the shelter of the house, and turned our thoughts towards dinner. The stands being convenient to the tavern, we had run in and snatched a hasty breakfast, but now collected to clean guns, load cartridges, and talk over results. The breech-loader being at that time something of a novelty, attracted considerable at- tention, and was accused of that defect popularly attributed to it, of not shooting strongly. As there were several expensive guns present among them one of William Moore in all of which the owners had great faith, the question was soon tested and settled to the satisfaction of the most sceptical. That being concluded, black-breast, or bull-head plover, was the occasion of a terrible contest over the entire plover family some of the sportsmen insisting there were three, others four or five well- known kinds. They all agreed as to there being the grass-plover, the bull-head, and the golden-plo- ver ; but some claimed in addition, the frost bird and the red-backed plover. At last one burst forth : " There is Barawell ; he ought to know : what does he say ? " As they turned inquiringly, feeling the momentous nature of the occasion, and that now was the chance THE JERSEY COAST. 231 to establish my reputation for ever, with an air of deep learning, I commenced : " In the first place, you are mistaken in including among plovers the grass or grey-plover, as it is commonly called ; it is not a plover at all " " Oh ! that is nonsense," they burst forth unani- mously ; " you don't know what you're talking about." Never was a growing reputation more suddenly nipped. Instantly reduced to a state of meekness, and only too glad to save a shred of character, I mildly suggested that Giraud's work on the birds of Long Island was in my valise, and probably con- tained the desired information. "Well," said one, " let's hear what he says." So I procured the book and read as follows : " ' TKINGA BAKTRAMIA WILSON. BARTRAM'S SANDPIPER. Bartrara's Sandpiper, Tringa Bartramia, Wil. Amer. Orn. Totanus Bartramius Bonap. 83' n. Totanus Bartramius Bartram Taller, Su. & Eich. Bartra- mian Tatler, NuU. Man. Bartramian Sandpiper. Tolanus Bartramius Aud. Orn. Biog.' " After giving the specific character, and a spirited account of the well-known manner of shooting them from a wagon, which is not followed with any other bird, as you well know, he proceeds as follows : '"In Massachusetts, Rhode Island, New Jersey, and on the Shinnecock and Hempstead Plains, Long 232 THE JERSEY COAST. Island, it is common, where it is known by the name of "gray," " grass," " field," or " upland " plover. It is very wary, and difficult to be approached. On the ground it has an erect and graceful gait. When alarmed it runs rapidly for a short distance before taking wing, uttering a whistling note as it rises ; its flight is rapid, frequently going out of sight before alighting. It usually keeps on the open, dry grounds feeding on grasshoppers, insects, and seeds. In the month of August it is generally in fine condi- tion, and highly prized as game. When feeding, for greater security, this species scatter about ; the instant the alarm is given, all move oft'. In the lat- ter part of August it migrates southward, and, it is said, performs the journey at night. Stragglers fre- quently remain behind until late in September.' " " It is evident he knew the bird," replied one of the objectors ; " but as he calls it by six or seven names the English ones being both sand-piper and tatler he evidently did not know what it should be called." " That is the way with naturalists," replied another ; " they each give a name to a species, but in this case all agree that it is not a plover. AVhat is the name plover derived from ? " " It comes from the French word Pluvier, rain- bird, because it generally flies during a rain. But naturalists found distinctions more upon the shape of bill and claws than on the habits of any species. According to them, plovers proper have no hind toe, or, at most, only a knob in its place." THE JERSEY COAST. 233 " Do you know what Frank Forester says on the subject?" Feeling my reputation rising a little, I resumed : "He confuses frost-bird and grass-plover, quoting Audubon as his authority; but he points out the distinctive peculiarity of the plover." " If he thinks a grass-plover and a frost-bird are alike, he knows very little of his subject. Why, the frost-bird stools admirably, while the plover never stools at all." " Not so fast ! Frank Forester was a splendid writer, and upon matters with which he was familiar he was thorough. He has conferred an immense favor upon the American sporting world ; but where he had not personal experience and no one can know everything he had to rely upon others. He has done as much to correct and elevate sportsmanship in this country, to introduce a proper vocabulary, and to enforce obedience to gentlemanly rules, as any man possibly could. As a body, we owe it to him that we are sportsmen, and not pot-hunters. Probably in some places the grass-plover is called a frost-bird." " I have more faith in Giraud, and would like to hear what he can tell us about the golden-plover, unless he says that is a sandpiper also." " He begins with a description of the black-bellied plover, which is known to us as bull-head, the cha- radrius helveticus, and then describes the American golden-plover, or charadrius pluwialis, and uses these words : ' It is better known to our gunners by 234 THE JERSEY COAST. the name of frost-bird, so called from being more plentiful during the early frosts of autumn, at which season it is generally in fine condition, and exceed- ingly well flavored.' Then follow the ring-plover, or ring-neck charadrius semipalmatus, Wilson's plo- ver; the piping-plover, or beach-bird charadrius melodius ; and the kildeer plover charadrius voci- ferus, these being all the varieties of American plo- ver." Bill could stand it no longer; but rising as the book was closed, burst forth at once : " Those writers are queer fellows ; they put the oddest, hardest, longest names to birds that ever I heard. Who would have thought of their calling a two-penny beach-bird, a radish meilow-deuce ! What I have to say is we baymcn will never learn these new-fangled names." " That is exactly the trouble," I replied. " You baymen will, in different sections of the country, call the same bird by various names, till no one can tell what you are talking about ; and the man of science has to step in and dig up a third name, usually some Latin affair, which nobody will accept. Thus it is that the older frost-birds, which, strange to say, invariably arrive before the young, are known as golden-plover, and their progeny as frost- birds." " Speaking of the seasons," replied Bill, evasively, " have you noticed that they are changing every year ? The springs are later than they used to be. In old times the English snipe arrived from the THE JERSEY COAST. 235 south early in March ; now they hardly come till June ; so, the ducks come later and stay later. The springs are colder, and the autumns warmer, than when I was young, and the bay-snipe appear in September instead of August, as it once was." "As to the English snipe you are undoubtedly correct, but this is due probably to their increasing scarcity ; and although we have no spring, and the summer extends frequently into September, this ap- pears to result from the changes in climate effected by clearing the woods. As the forests are cut down, the cold winds of spring, and the burning suns of summer, produce a greater effect, and each in its turn lasts longer. Altogether, however, our seasons seem to be moderating." At this interesting point in our discussion, some one discovered by the aid of a telescope that a flock of willet had settled on the sand-bank among the stools. The announcement was followed by a gene- ral seizure of weapons and rush for the blinds. My friend and myself hastened to the little boat, used in floating quietly down upon ducks, and called a " sneak box," and embarking, glided silently to- wards our stand. The tide had left bare a long bank of sand, upon which was collected a glorious flock, or, more properly speaking, two flocks united, one of raarlin and the other of willet. All unconscious of approaching danger, the pretty creatures were busily engaged, some in feeding, others in washing dipping under and throwing the water over their graceful bodies others in running 236 THE JERSEY COAST. actively about, or jumping up and taking short flights to dry their wings. A happy murmur ran through the flock, and so innocent and beautiful were they that we remained watching them in silent admi- ration, unwilling to disturb the romance of the charming scene. The rich brown feathers of the imposing marlin formed an exquisite contrast to the white and black of the elegant willet, as the different species mixed unreservedly together. They did not exhibit the slightest alarm when our boat, after we had ceased rowing, was borne towards them by the wind, and allowed us to approach till it grounded on the flat. Having feasted our eyes on the magnificent spectacle, we at last gave the word to fire. At the report they rose wildly, and receiving the second discharge, made the best of their way to safer quarters. Both barrels of my friend's gun missed fire, and we gathered only seven birds, as the flock, although numbering at least seventy birds, was widely scattered and offered a poor mark. No sooner were we again ensconced in our blind, than the exhilarating sport of the morning was renewed sport such as only those who have tried it can appreciate sport that makes the heart beat and the nerves tingle sport that overweighs humanity and compels the remorseless slaughter of these beau- tiful birds. Flock after flock, seen at great distance, and watched in their approach through changing hopes and fears, or darting unexpectedly from over our heads and first noticed when rushing with ex- tended wings down to our stools, presented their THE JERSEY COAST. 237 crowded ranks to our delighted gaze. From the very clouds, would come the shrill whistle of the yelper, or from the horizon, the long shriek of the willet, or nearer at hand would be heard the plain- tive note of the gentle dowitcher ; they appeared from all quarters, sailing low along the water or pitching directly down from out the sky. Towards evening the flight diminished, and when the hora announced that supper was ready, the dif- ferent parties met once more at the house to compare notes and relate adventures. All had met with excellent success, but our stand carried off the palm. " Bill," commenced some unhappy person, after we had left the close, hot dining-room, " why do you not enlarge your house ?" "Bill is waiting for another wreck," was the volunteer response ; " the whole coast is fed, clothed, and sheltered by the wrecks. The house is built from the remnants of unfortunate ships, as you per- ceive by the name-boards of the Arion, Pilgrim, Samuel Willets, J. Harthorn, and Johanna, that form so conspicuous a part of the front under the porch. When a vessel is driven ashore, and the crew and passengers who are not quite dead are disposed of by the aid of a stone in the corner of a handkerchief, which makes an unsuspicious bruise, the prize is fought for by the natives, and not only the cargo, but the very ribs and planks of the vessel appro- priated." " Now that's not fair," replied Bill, aroused ; " no man, except my father-in-law, has done more to save 238 THE JERSEY COAST. drowning men than I have. I tell you it's an awful sight to see the poor creatures clinging to the rig- ging and bowsprit, to see them washed off before your eyes, sometimes close to you, without your being able to help them, and their dead bodies thrown up by the waves on the sand. You don't feel like stealing or murder at such times; and besides, I never knew a dead man come ashore that had anything in his pockets." A peal of laughter greeted this naive remark, toge- ther with the ready response : " Bill, you were too late ; some Barnegat pirate had been before you." "No, the Barnegat pirates are kinder than the Government. We do our best to save the poor fellows, but the Government puts men in charge of their station-houses that know nothing about their business. My father-in-law was the first man that threw a line with the cannon over a ship, and he was presented with a medal by the Humane Society. He never was paid a dollar for taking charge of the station, the life-boat, and the cannon. Since he died I kept it for five years, and was paid two years ; now men are selected for their politics. One lives back on the main land two miles from his station-house, another never fired a gun, and a third never rowed a boat. The last got a crew of us toge- ther once to go out to a ship in the life-boat and undertook to steer, but we told him not one of us would go unless he stayed on shore. It is a dan- gerous thing to have a green hand at the helm, or even at an oar, in times like that." THE JERSEY COAST. 239 w How far can you reach a ship with the cannon ?" we inquired. " The line, you know, is fastened to the ball with a short wire, so that it won't burn off, and is coiled up beside the gun, and of course it keeps the ball back, and then people forget we always have to fire against the wind, as vessels are never wrecked with the wind off shore ; so although the guns are expected to carry five hundred yards, they will not carry more than one hundred and eighty. That is enough, though, if they only have the right sort of men to manage them ; but how is a landsman to tell whether he must use the cannon or is safe in going off in the boat ? In one case, while the station-master was try- ing to drag his cannon down to a ship, a party of us took a common boat and landed her crew and pas- sengers before he arrived. I don't care about the pay, for I kept it three years without ; but I hate to see lives sacrificed for politics. Would you like to see the medal they gave to the old man ?" We responded in the affirmative ; and he soon pro- duced a silver medal, with an inscription on one side recording the circumstances, and on the other an embossed picture of a ship in distress, a cannon from which the ball and rope attached had been dis- charged and were visible in mid air, several men standing around the gun, and a life-boat climbing the seas. " But, Bill, tell us about the Bamegat pirates leading a lame horse with a lantern tied to his neck 240 THE JERSEY COAST. over the sand hills in imitation of a ship's light, and thus inveigling vessels ashore." " I can only say I have never heard of it. As quick as a vessel comes ashore, the insurance agent is telegraphed for, and he takes charge of everything. Why, we even buy the wrecks and pay well for them, too. Now and then something is washed up like that coal in front of the house, but it is not often." " What do you mean by the stations ?" "They are houses built by the Government and placed at regular distances along the. beach. The gun, and rope, and life-boat, and life-car, and all other things that are needed in case of shipwreck, are kept in them. Then there is a stove and coal ready to make a fire, for if a poor wretch got ashore in mid-winter he would soon freeze if he couldn't get to a fire. And if the man who has charge of the station lives two miles off across a bay that he can't cross in a bad storm, what can the poor half-drowned fellows do, if they are too much benumbed to break open the door ? I'd stave it in for them pretty quick if I was there, law- or no law." " It is a shame that a matter like that should not be free from politics." " So it was once," Bill went on fluently ; for on this subject he felt that his family had a right to be eloquent ; " at one time some department had it in charge that never would either appoint or remove a man on political account ; but that is all changed now, and the men are expected to go out with every THE JERSEY COAST. 241 administration, and shipwrecked passengers die while political favorites draw the two hundred dol- lars a year pay for the station-master." "Now, Bill, stop your talk about the public wrongs, and tell us something more interesting. Have you ever heard one of Bill's ghost stories ?" This inquiry was addressed to the public. Bill's face lengthened ; he sat silently nursing his leg and smoking his brierwood pipe, while a shadow seemed to settle on his countenance. " Come, Bill," we responded, " let's have the story." Bill answered not, and the shadow deepened, and the smoke was puffed in heavier masses from his lips. " Bill is afraid ; he don't like ghosts, and don't dare to talk of them." " I am not easily skecred," he answered at last ; " but if you had seen what I have on this shore, you would not talk so easy about it 'Lige, do you re- member the time we saw that ship ? There had been a heavy storm, and when we got up next day early, there lay a vessel on the beach; she must have been most everlastingly a harpin' it." " What is that ?" was asked wonderingly, on the utterance of this peculiar expression. " Why, she had come clear in over the bar, and must have been going some to do that ; for there she lay, bow on, with her bowsprit sticking way up ashore, just below the station yonder. Her masts were standing, and we clapped on our clothes and started for the beach. The wind was blowin' hard, 242 THE JERSEY COAST. and the sand and drizzle driving in our faces as we walked over, and we kept our heads down most of the time. When we got to the sand-hills we looked up, and the ship was gone. I thought that likely enough, for she must have broken up and gone to pieces soon in that surf, so we hurried along as fast as we could ; and sure enough, when we rounded the point, the little cove in which she lay was full of truck. 'Lige was there, and he saw it as plain as I did. The water was full of drift-boxes, barrels, planks, and all sorts of things, pitching and rolling about ; and some of them had been carried up onto the sand and were strewed about in all directions. " It was early, and the day was misty, but we could see plain enough, and we saw all that stuff knocking about as plain as I see you now. There was a big timber in my way a stick well, thirty feet long and two feet or two and a half square, so that I had to raise my foot high to clear it ; I step- ped one leg over, and drew the other along to feel it, bxit it didn't touch anything ; then I stopped and looked down there was no timber there ; I looked back towards the sea the drift had disappeared, the barrels and boxes and truck of one sort or another was gone. There was nothing on shore nor in the water. Now you may laugh, but 'Lige knows whether what I've told you is true." "Bill, that is a pretty good story, but it is not the one I meant," persisted the individual who had com- menced the attack. " Well, another time, Zeph and I were at work THE JERSEY COAST. 243 getting the copper bolts out of an old wreck, when we happened to look up and saw two carriages coming along, up the beach. I spoke to Zeph about it, but as they came along slowly, we went on with our work, and when we looked up again there was only one. That came on closer and closer till I could tell the horses ; they were two bays of squire Jones' down at the inlet ; they drove right on to- wards us till they were so near that T did not like to stare the people in the face, and looked down again to my work. There were two men, and I saw them so plain that I should know 'em anywhere. Well, I raised my head a second after, and they were gone ; and there never had been any wagon, for Zeph and I hunted all over the beach to find the tracks in the sand." " I guess that was another misty day, and you hadn't had your eye-opener," was the appreciative response. " No, it was three o'clock in the day, and bright sunshine ; but at that time, as near as can be, Tommy Smith was drowned down at the inlet, and the very next day at the very same hour, the 'Squire's wagon did come up the beach, with the same two men driving, and the body in a box in the back part." " Now, Bill," continued the persistent individual, " this is all very well, but it is not the story. Come, out with it ; you know what I mean." Bill fell silent, again looking off into the distance as though he saw something that others could not 244 THE JERSEY COAST. see ; he pulled away nervously on his pipe, which had gone out, hut answered not. " Bill's afraid ;" was the tantalizing suggestion. "There's Sam," said Bill suddenly ; "he's not afeard of man or devil; ask him what he saw." The person referred to was a large, broad-shoul- dered, pleasant-faced man, with a clear blue eye that looked as though it would not quail easily, and he responded at once : " I never saw anything ; but one night when I was coming by the cove where the Johanna was cast away, and where three hundred bodies were picked up and buried, I heard a loud scream. It sounded like a woman's voice, and Avas repeated three or four times ; but I couldn't find anything, although I spent an hour hunting among the sand-hills, and it was bright moonlight. It may have been some sort of animal, but I don't know exactly what." " Bill's adventure happened in the same neighbor- hood, so let's have it," continued the persistent man. " As Sam says," commenced Bill, at last, " the Johanna went ashore one awful north-easter in winter about six miles above here, near Old Jackey's tavern ; she broke up before we could do anything for her, and three hundred men, women, and children for she was an emigrant ship were washed ashore dur- ing the following week ; most of them had been drifted by the set of the tide into the cove, and they were buried there ; so you see it ain't a nice place of a dark night. THE JERSEY COAST. 245 " I was driving down the beach about a year after she was lost, with my old jagger wagon, and a heavy load on of groceries and stores of one kind or other. It was about one o'clock at night, miguty cold, but bright moonlight ; and I was coining along by the comer of the fence, you know, just above Jackey's, when the mare stopped short. Now, she was just the best beast to drive you ever saw. I could drive her into the bay or right over into the ocean, and she was never skeered at anything. But this time, she come right back in the shafts and began to trem- ble all over ; I gave her a touch of the whip, and she was just as full of spirit as a horse need be, but she only reared up and snorted and trembled worse than ever. So I knew something must be wrong, and looked ahead pretty sharp ; and there, sure enough, light across the road, lay a man. Jackey was a little too fond of rum at that time, and I made up my mind he had got drunk and tumbled down on his way home ; it was cold, and I didn't want to get out of the wagon where I was nicely tucked in, and thought I would drive round out of the road and wake him up with my whip as I passed. I tried to pull the mare off to one side to go by, but she only reared and snorted and trembled, so that I was afraid she would fall. She had a tender mouth, but although I pulled my best I could not budge her ; at last, getting mad, I laid the gad over her just as hard as I could draw it. Instead of obeying the rein, however, she plunged straight on, made a tre- mendous leap over the body, and dragged the wagon 246 THE JERSEY COAST. after her. I pulled her in all I knew how, and no mistake ; but it was no use, and I felt the front wheels strike, lift, and go over him, and then the hind wheels, but I couldn't stop her. That was a heavy load, and enough to crush any one, and as soon as I could fetch the mare down for she had stalled to run I jumped out quick enough then, you may bet your life. I tied her up to the fence, although she was still so uneasy I daresen't hardly leave her, and hurried back to see if I could do anything for Jackey. Would you believe it, there was nothing there ! I tell you I felt the wagon go over him, and what's more, I looked down as I passed and saw his clothes and his hair straggling out over the snow, for he had no hat on ; though I noticed at the time that I didn't see any flesh, but supposed his face was turned from me. There was no rise in the ground and not a cloud in the sky ; the moon was nearly full, and there wasn't any man, and never had been any man there ; but whatever there was, the mare saw it as plain as I did." " Now let's turn in," said a sleepy individual, who had first been nodding over Bill's statement of pub- lic wrongs, and had taken several short naps in the course of his ghost story ; " and as there was some- thing said yesterday about a smoke driving away mosquitoes, for heaven's sake let's make a big one ; the infernal pests kept me awake all last night." This was excellent advice, and not only was an entire newspaper consumed in our common sleeping apartment, but a quantity of powder was squibbed THE JERSEY COAST. 247 off, till the place smelt like the antechamber of Tar- tarus. The mosquitoes were expelled or silenced at the cost of a slight suffocation to ourselves, but we gained several hours sleep till the smoke escaped and allowed the villains to return to their prey. One sporting day resembles another in its essen- tial features, although not often so entirely as with the Englishman, who, having devoted his life to woodcock shooting, and being called upon to relate his experiences, replied that he had shot woodcock for forty years, but never noticed anything worth re- coi'ding. Our next day, however, was enlivened by sport of an unexpected kind. We had heard there was some dispute about the ownership of the stands ; in fact, that the one occupied by my friend and my- self belonged to the Ortleys, a family represented as decidedly uninviting; while both Bill and the Ortleys claimed that, where another party was located. In the disputed stand were .Bill, a New York gen- tleman, who, as events proved, seemed to be some- thing of an athlete, and a sedate, unimpassionable Jer- sey lawyer of considerable eminence. Elijah was with us, when two villanous, red-haired, freckle- skinned objects presented themselves, and, after some preliminary remarks and a refusal on their part of a friendly glass, which is a desperate sign in a Jerseyman, mildly suggested that they would like a little remuneration for the use of the stand. As their suggestion was moderate, reasonable, and just, and they undoubtedly owned the land, we complied, 248 THE JERSEY COAST. and beheld them proceed, to Elijah's great delight, for the same purpose towards the other stand. Elijah prophetically announced they would probably get more than they demanded. The other stand was distant about a hundred yards, in full view, and we perceived at once that a commotion was caused by the unexpected arrival. The athletic man was shortly seen outside the blind, flinging his arms wildly about in front of the two Ortley brothers, and, as we were afterwards inform- ed, offering to fight either or both of them. Matters then seemed to progress more favorably, till sud- denly Bill and the younger Ortley emerged, locked in an unfriendly embrace, and commenced dragging each other round the sand-bank, while the demon- strative sportsman was seen dancing actively in front of the other Ortley, and preventing his interference. Of course we dropped our guns and hastened across the shallow, intervening water, having just time to perceive that Bill had thrown his adversary and remained on top. The first words we heard were : "Take him off! Oh, my God! take him off. Enough, enough, take him off," from the one on the ground, whose eye the only vulnerable part to un- instructed anger Bill was busily endeavoring to gouge out, while the other shouted frantically: "He is killing rny brother ; let me get to him ; he is gouging his eye out. He Avill kill him, he will kill him." ** Never mind," answered the athletic man, swing- ing his arms ominously, and dexterously interposing THE JERSEY COAST. 249 between the victim and his brother, whenever the latter attempted to dodge past him. " Let him be killed, it would serve him right ; he came over here for a fight, and he shall have enough of ifc if both of his eyes are gouged out." Elijah arrived in time to prevent the latter cata- strophe, and being o'f a peaceable and humane dispo- sition, pulled off his brother before anything more serious than a little scratching had occurred. In fact, there is no position in which ignorance renders a person more pitiably inefficient, than in fighting ; and, while a skilful man could have killed his oppo- nent during the time Bill had enjoyed, the latter had really effected nothing worth mentioning. The ugly wretch was awfully frightened, however ; his face being ghostly pale, streaked with bloody red, and he commenced whining at once : " I am nothing but a boy, only twenty-two last spring, and he's a man grown." " You know boys have to. be whipped to keep them in order," was the consolatory response ; for we naturally took part with our landlord. " Gentlemen, just look at me." " Don't come so close, you're covered with blood ; keep back, keep back." " But look at me ; he's bigger than I am, and I am only a boy." " Then you shouldn't strike a man." " Oh ! gentlemen, I didn't strike him first, indeed I didn't ; he struck me when I wasn't thinking ; in- deed he did." 250 THE JEKSEY COAST. "Yes," broke in his brother, who was just re- covering from the spell first put upon him by our athlete's continual offers to accommodate him in any way he wished. " Yes, it will be a dear blow for you ; I saw you strike him." " No," said the lawyer, advancing for the first time from behind the blind where hehad been an unmoved and impartial umpire of the fray, " you should not say that ; your brother certainly struck first ; I saw him distinctly." His manner was solemn, and con- vincing, and conclusive, taken in connexion with his perfect equanimity during the affair; but, of course, he was met by contradiction and protesta- tion from the two brothers. This dispute would have been endless, but at that moment a fine flock of willets was descried advancing towards the stools. " Down, down," every one shouted, and, true to the bayman's instinct, friend and foe crowded down on the sand together, waiting breathlessly the arri- val of the birds. The latter came up handsomely, were received with four barrels, and left several of their number as keepsakes or peace-offerings ; for, of course, anger was dissipated, and the defeated enemy retired amid a few merry suggestions, and the excellent advice that they had better not repeat their joke. Such squabbles for it can be called nothing graver lower one's opinion of human kind, and it makes one ashamed to think that two men may hug and pull one another about, and roll on the sand for THE JERSEY COAST. 251 fifteen minutes, with the best will in the world to do each other all the damage possible, and only in- flict, in the feebleness of uneducated humanity, a few miserable scratches. Any of the lower animals would, in that time, have left serious marks of its anger ; but the pitiful results of these human efforts were, that Bill's beard was pulled and Ortley's face scratched. It makes one blush to think he is a man. As our party returned to the blind we had left, Elijah spoke, softly ruminating aloud : " Well, it only costs thirty-five dollars anyhow, and it was worth that." Our humane, peaceable friend, it seems, had been cast in a similar case, and had to pay six cents damages and thirty-five dollars costs of court. There is probably nothing that has so soothing and pacifying an influence on the New Jersey mind as costs of court. The words alone act like a charm upon a Jerseyman in the acme of frenzy, and are as effec- tive as a policeman in uniform. If a man commits assault and battery, he is fined six cents damages and costs of court ; if he is guilty of trespass it is the same ; if he kisses his neighbor's wife against her will, if he slanders a friend's character, it is always six cents damages and costs of court ; and Jerseymen will probably expect in the next world to get off with six cents damages and costs of court. The shooting was excellent during the whole day, and evening found us collected in the bar-room, well satisfied and particularly jocose over the amusing 252 THE JERSEY COAST. pugilistic encounter we had witnessed. It lent point to many a good hit at Bill's expense ; even his wife, who is a fine, resolute-looking woman, saying that if she had seen it sooner, she would have taken a broomstick and flogged them both. The general impression was, she could have made her words gdbd. The pleasure of indulging in fun at the expense of a fellow-creature is very great, and Bill's adventure was certainly fair game. When our wit was ex- hausted, and the craving for tobacco mollified by the steady use of our pipes, our thoughts and voices turned to our never-wearying passion, and one of the party commenced : "I have shot a number of the birds you call kriekers ; they are a fat bird, but do not seem to stool. I have never before shot them, except occa- sionally on the meado\vs." " They don't stool," said Bill, " and only utter a krieking kind of cry ; but in October they come here very thick, and we walk them up over the meadows. Why, you can shoot a hundred a day." "A most excellent bird they are, too fat and delicate. They are the latest of the bay-snipe in re- tui'ning from the summer breeding-places; and as they rise and fly from you, they afford extremely pretty shooting. They are sometimes called short- neck, and are, in a gastronomic point of view, the best bay-snipe that is put upon the table." " We call the bay-birds usually snipe," said the first speaker ; " but I have been told they are not THE JERSEY COAST. 253 snipe at all. Refer to Giraud again and give us the truth." This fell, of course, to my share, and I com- menced as follows : " I read you yesterday about the plovers, and im- mediately after them we find an account of the turn- stone, strepsilas interpres, which is nothing else than our beautiful brant-bird or horse-foot snipe, as it is called farther south, because it feeds on the spawn of the horse-foot. This pretty but unfortunate bird belongs to no genus whatever, and has been to the ornithologists a source of great tribulation. They have sometimes considered it a sandpiper and sometimes not, so you may probably call it what you please ; and as brant-bird is a rhythmical name, it will answer as well as strepsilas interpres / if you have not a fluent tongue, perhaps somewhat better. Of the snipes, or scolopacidce, the only true repre- sentative is the dowitcher, scolopax novebora- censis. u Hold on," shouted Bill ; " say that last word over again." " Noveboracensis" "That is only the half of it; let's have the whole." " Scolopax noveboracensis" " Scoly packs never borrow a census ; that is a good sized name for a little dowitch, and beats the radish altogether. Go ahead, we'll learn something before we get through." " Why, that is only Latin for New York snipe." 254 THE JERSEY COAST. " Oh, pshaw ! " responded Bill, in intense dis gust, "I thought it meant a whole bookful of things." " The sandpipers, however, come under the family of snipes, and are called tringoz. Among these are enumerated the robin-snipe and the grass-plover, as I told you before, the black-breast, the krieker, or short-neck, and several scarcer varieties. The yelp- ers and yellow-legs, the tiny teeter, and the willet are tattlers, genus totanus, while the marlin is the godvvit limosa. The sickle-bills, jacks, andfutes are curlews, genus numenms." " And now that you have got through," grumbled Bill again, " can you whistle a snipe any better or shoot him any easier? Do you know why he stools well in a south-westerly wind, why one stools better than another, or why any of them stool at all ? Do you know why he flies after a storm, or why some go in flocks and others don't, or why there is usually a flight on the fifteenth and twenty-fifth of August? When books tell us these things, I shall think more of the writers." "These matters are not easy to find out; even you gunners, who have been on the bay all your lives, where your fathers lived before you, do not know. But now tell us what other sport you have here." " On the mainland there are a good many Eng- lish snipe in spring, while in the fall we catch blue- fish and shoot ducks. The black ducks and teal will soon be along; but ever since the inlet was THE JEESEY COAST. 255 closed, the canvas-backs and red-heads have been scarce." " What do you mean by the inlet's closing ?" " There used to be several inlets across the beach one about ten miles below and then we had splendid oysters and ducks plenty. There came a tremendous storm one winter that washed up the sand and closed the inlet, and so it has remained ever since." " Can't they be dredged out ?" "The people would pay a fortune to any man who did that, if he could keep it open. In the fall, we go after ducks twenty miles when we want any great shooting; but we kill a good many round here." " How do you catch the blue-fish that you spoke of?" " They chase the bony-fish along the shore, and when they come close in, you can stand on the beach, and throw the squid right among them. I took sixteen hundred pounds in half a day." " Phew !" was the universal chorus. " 'Lige was there, and he knows whether that is true. They averaged fifteen pounds apiece. On those occasions, the only question is whether you know IIOAV to land them, and can do it quick enough." " Your hands must have been cut to pieces." "Not at all; you'll never cut your hands if you don't let the line slip." " Did you run up ashore with them ? " 256 THE JERSEY COAST. " No, I had no time for that ; I landed them, hand over hand." " Well, after that story it's time we went to bed ; so good-night." During that night the mosquitoes, bad as they had been, were more terrible than at any time pre- vious. Favored by the late frequent rains, they had become more numerous than had ever been known on the beach ; and being consequently com- pelled to subdivide to an unusual degree the ordi- narily small supply of food, they were savagely hungry. Sleep was out of the question, and after trying all sorts of devices from gunpowder to mos- quito-nets, the party wandered out of doors, and, scattering in search of a place of retreat, afforded an excellent representation of unhappy ghosts on the banks of the Styx. The shore, near the surf, and the bathing-houses had heretofore been tolerably secure resorts, but, on this unprecedented night, a special meeting of mosquitoes seemed to have been called in that neighborhood. Those that tried the ground, and covered them- selves carefully from head to foot, found that the enterprising long-legs disregarded the customary habits of their race, and consented to crawl down their sleeves, up their pants, or through the folds of the blanket. The sand-fleas also were numerous and lively, bounding about in an unpleasantly active way ; and where there were neither mosquitoes nor sand-fleas, the nervous sufferer imagined every grain THE JERSEY COAST. 257 of stray sand that sifted in through his clothes to I e some malignant, blood-sucking, insect. One great advantage, however, followed from this discomfort that we were up betimes next morning and ready for sport that soon proved equal to any we had experienced. In fact, so steady and well sustained a flight of large birds was extremely rare ; before our arrival the shooting had been good, and since excellent. There was a repetition to a great extent of the day previous, in many particulars of flight, number, and character of birds; in infinite modification of circumstance, there was an incessant variety of bewildering sport. No two birds ever approach the sportsman's stand in precisely the same way, and there is one round of deliciously torturing uncertainty ; the flock we are most certain of may turn off, the one that has passed and been given up, may return ; the bird that has been carefully covered may escape, another that seems a hopeless chance may fall : it is these minute differences, and this continual variety, that lend the principal charm to the sportsman's life. At midday came again the congregation at the house, the discussion over sporting topics, the joke or story, and the comparison of luck. Thus passed the days, alike, yet different, affording undiminished pleasure, excitement, and instruction, with sport admirably adapted to the hot weather, when the cool, shady swamps are deserted by the woodcock. The English snipe have not yet arrived upon the meadows, and the fall shooting is still in prospective ; 258 THE JERSEY COAST. the labor is easy, the body can be kept cool ly wading for dead birds, and to those who are, at the best, not vigorous, bay-snipe shooting is a delightful resource. Never did mortals pass a pleasanter week than that week at the beach, and it is impossible to chro- nicle all the good shots, to repeat all the amusing stories or merry jokes, or to record all the valuable instruction ; and to obtain an inkling even, the reader had better make a firm resolve that next August will not pass over his head without his devoting at least one week to bay-snipe shooting. When at last the time came to part, and the baggage was packed, and the guns reluctantly bestowed in their cases, we bade our farewell with sincere regret, praying that often thereafter might we have such sport, and meet such companionship. It is a long journey to the beach, but it is a longer one back again ; no high hopes buoy up the traveller, regrets accompany him instead no anticipation of grand sport, but the gloomy certainty that it is over for the year ; and although the conveyance to the beach is irregular, there is absolutely none away from it. It is true there are several different routes to and from it, but all by private conveyance, and, rendered by the mosquitoes nearly impracticable. Bill harnessed his ponies for, wonderful to say, a few horses and cattle manage to live on the beach and sustain existence in spite of the mosquitoes and we stowed ourselves and our luggage in his well worn wagon. The road lay over the barren beach, THE JERSEY COAST. 259 deep and heavy with sand, and hardly distinguishable after a heavy rain ; the one-story shanty, that had been our resting-place, soon faded from view, and we had nothing in prospect but the dreary journey home. At the head of the beach we encountered a bathing- party, and were sorely tempted to join the rollicking girls in a frolic among the breakers ; but, by exerting great self-denial, and shutting our eyes to their attrac- tions, much to my companion's disgust, we kept on our course. We dined at the tavern on the road, and having bade farewell to Bill, and engaged ano- ther team, we reached Crab Town by dusk. How changed the village seemed to us ! Where was the precious and beautiful freight that had paid us such delicious toll ? Our eyes peered up and down the road, and into the windows of the scat- tered houses ; our ears listened sharply for the music of merry voices and ringing laughter ; our thoughts reverted to that crowded stage, which had so lately borne us through the village. The road was vacant and desolate ; all sound was hushed and still ; grace- ful forms, clad in yielding drapery, were nowhere to be seen ; the dull lights in the windows revealed nothing to our earnest gaze. Our lovely companions were invisible, although we pursued our search per- sistently till late at night, when, weary and discon- solate, we crawled up to bed in a dismal hostelry kept by Huntsinger. Going sporting into Jersey is delightful, but returning is sad indeed. 260 BAY-BIRDS. 1. Lower mandible. - 2. Upper mandible. 3. Forehead. 4. Loral space. 5. Crown of the head. 6. Hind part of the head. 7. Scapulars long feathers from shoulders over sides of back. 8. Smaller wing coverts. 9. Bend of the wing 10. Larger wing coverts. 11. Tertials, arising from tl.e second bone of the wing at the elbow-joint. 12. Secondaries, from the se- cond bone of the wing. 13. Primaries, from the first bone of the whig. 14. Tibia, the thigh. 15. Tarsus, the shank. 16. Tipper tail coverts. 17. Lower tail coverts. 18. Tail feathers. The length of a bird is measured from the extremity of the bill to the end of the longest tail feather ; the length of the wing is measured from the bend to the tip of the longest quill CHAPTER V. BAY-BIKDS. ALTHOUGH a cursory account of the various bay-birds, their habits and peculiarities, has been given in a previous chapter, it seems desirable to add a more complete, exhaustive, and specific description. This is attempted in the following pages, and although the ornithological characteristics are taken from GiraucTs Birds of Long Island, which seems to have been the resource of all our sporting writers, nothing else is derived from him; but the facts are stated, either upon personal knowledge, which is generally the case, or upon reliable information. As to the abundance or scarcity of any particu- lar species, the experience of sportsmen will differ according to the accident of flight, or the locality of their favorite sporting-ground ; and in relation to their shyness or gentleness, much depends upon the time of year and the condition of the weather. In consequence of the confusion of nomenclature, it has been deemed advisable to give the scientific descrip- tion of the common species, each one being placed under its most appropriate name, and to collect together as many designations as could be found to have been applied to them respectively. Never- theless, many names will no doubt be omitted, and 262 BAY-BIRDS. there will be other birds, and some quite common varieties, that, among bay-men, have no names what- ever. It is not intended to furnish a description of all the species of shore-snipe that occasionally are killed, but to supply such information as will enable the sportsman to distinguish the ordinary varieties ; and such facts as have not been fully stated, which are more especially applicable to certain members of this great class, are grouped together under separate heads. Nothing is expected to be added to the ornithological learning of the world, and only such portions of that science are given as may be consi- dered desirable for the ready use of the sportsman in the intelligent pursuit of his pleasures. PLOVERS. Genus Charadrius, Linn. Generic distinctions. Bill short, strong, straight, about the length of the head, which is rather large and prominent in front ; eyes large ; body full ; neck short and rather thick ; wings long ; tail rounded and of moderate length ; toes connected at the base ; hind toe wanting, or consisting of a small knob. BLACK-BREAST. Bull-Headed Plover. Beetle-Headed Plover. Black-Bellied Plover. Charadrius Helveticus, Wils. This bird is killed along our bays indiscriminately with the other snipe, although it does not stool as BAY-BIRDS 263 well as the marlin or yellow-legs. It passes north early in May, when it is often called the black-bel- lied plover, and regarded from its plumage as a dis- tinct variety from the fall bird ; it is then quite shy. In August or September it returns, being more plen- tiful in the latter month, and is often found in great numbers especially at Montauk Point ; and at that period the young, being quite fat, are regarded as delicious eating. It is then greyer in appearance and not so strongly colored as when in full plumage. Before the main flight arrives, scattering individuals are heard uttering their peculiar beautiful and shrill cry, and are seen shyly approaching the stools, or darting round not far off, and yet afraid to draw close to them. Its head is large and round, giving rise to the name of bull-head, which is common on the coast of New Jersey, although in New York it is generally known as black-breast. " Specific Character. Bill stout, along the gap one inch and five-sixteenths ; length of tarsi one inch and five-eighths. Adult male with the bill black, strong, shorter than the head ; cheeks, loral space, throat, fore-neck, breast, with a large portion of the abdomen black ; hind part of the abdomen and flanks white ; forehead, with a broad band passing down the sides of the neck and breast, white ; crown, oc- ciput, and hind-neck greyish white, spotted Avith dusky ; upper parts blackish-brown, the feathers broadly tipped with white ; eye encircled with white ; tail and upper tail-coverts white, barred with black, the former tipped with white ; lower tail-coverts 2G4 BAY-BIRDS. white, the outer feather spotted with black; pri- maries and their coverts blackish-brown, the latter margined with white ; primary shafts about two- thirds from the base, white, tips blackish -brown ; part of the inner webs of the outer primaries white ; both webs of the inner primaries partially white ; secondaries white at the base, margined at the same ; feet black ; toes connected by a membrane. Female smaller. Young with the upper plumage greyish- brown, the feathers spotted with white ; throat, fore- neck, and upper part of the breast greyish- white, streaked with dusky ; rest of the lower parts white. Length of adult male eleven inches and three quar- ters, wing seven and a half." Giraufts Birds of Long Island. AMERICAN GOLDEN PLOVER. Frost Bird, Greenback. Qharadrius Pluvialis, Wils. This bird furnishes great sport at Montauk Point, when the fortunate sportsman happens to arrive after a fierce north-easter early in September and during one of those wonderful flights that occasion- ally occur. They come readily to the decoys which are placed in the open upland fields, and were once killed in great numbers on Hempstead plains before cultivation ejected them. A large number of de- coys should be used, for they are not so easily seen as when set in the water. After alighting, the gold- en plover runs with great activity in pursuit of the BAY-BIRDS. 265 insects, mostly grasshoppers, on which it feeds ; and when killed it constitutes a prime delicacy for the table, and brings a high price in market. It passes to the northward in the latter part of April, and re- turns in the early part of September. Its general color on the back is greenish, and it has a distinct light stripe alongside of the eye. They often con- gregate in immense numbers, and I have certainly seen a thousand in a flock. " Specific Character. Bill rather slender ; along the gap one inch and an eighth ; tarsi one and nine- sixteenths. Adult with the bill black, much slighter than C. helveticus ; forehead, and a band over the eye, extending behind the eye, white ; upper parts, includ- ing the crown, brownish-black, the feathers marked with spots of golden yellow and dull white ; quills and coverts dark ~ greyish-brown ; secondaries paler the inner margined with yellowish-white ; tail feathers greyish-brown, barred with paler, the central with dull yellow; shafts of the wing quills white towards the end, which, with their bases, are dark brown ; lower parts brownish-black, though in gene- ral we find them mottled with brown, dull white, and black ; lower tail-coverts white, the lateral marked with black ; feet bluish-grey. Late in autumn, the golden markings on the upper parts are not so dis- tinct, and the lower parts are greyish-blue. Length, ten inches and a half, wing seven and one-eighth." Giraud. 2G6 BAY-BIRDS. BEACH-BIRD. Piping Plover. Charadrius Hiaticula, Wils. The beach-bird, as its name implies, prefers the beaches to the meadows, and follows each retreating wave of ocean surf in pursuit of its prey, escaping with amazing agility from the next swell. It is a pretty little bird, not often associating in flocks, and on hazy days coming well to the decoys, which should be placed near to the surf, while the sports- man conceals himself by digging a hollow in the loose sand. Although these birds are small, they are plump and well flavored, and when flying rapid- ly on a level with the^flashing breakers, amid the noise and confusion of old ocean's roar, are by no means easy to kill. They are present with us more or less all summer, their diminutive size tending to protect them from destruction. " Specific Character. Bill shorter than the head ; at base orange color, towards the end black; fore- neck and cheeks pure white, bordered above with black ; rest of the head very pale brown. Adult male with the bill short, orange at the base, anterior to the nostrils black; forehead white, with a band of black crossing directly above ; upper part of the head, hind neck, back, scapulars, and wing coverts, pale brown ; rump white, the central feathers tinged with brown ; tail brown, white at base, tipped with the same ; lateral feathers pure white the next with a spot of blackish-brown near the end ; upper tail BAY-BIRDS. 267 coverts white ; primaries brown ; a large portion of the inner webs white ; a spot of the same on the outer webs of the inner quills ; secondaries white, with a large spot of brown towards the ends ; lower surface of the wings white, a black band round the lower part of the neck, broadest on the sides where it terminates; entire lower plumage white. Female similar, with the band on the neck brown. Length seven inches, wing four and a half." Giraud. KlLDEEB. Charadrius Vodferus, Wils. A worthless bird, furnishing no sport, and poor eating. " Specific Character. A band on the forehead pass- ing back to the eye ; a line over the eye, upper part of the neck all round, and a band on the lower part of the fore-neck, white ; above and below the Litter, a broad black band; rump and upper tail-coverts orange red. Adult with the bill black ; at the base a band of blackish-brown ; on the forehead a band of white passing back to the eye ; directly above a band of black; rest of the head brown, with a band of white behind the eye ; throat white ; a broad band of the same color encircling the upper part of the neck ; middle of the neck encircled with black, much broader on the fore-neck ; below which, on the fore-neck, a band of white, followed by a band of black on the lower neck, the feathers of which are tipped with white, of which color are the breast, 268 BAY-BIKDS. abdomen, under tail-coverts, and sides, the latter faintly tinged with yellow ; tail rather long, round- ed ; the outer feathers white, barred with brownish- black, their tips white, with a single spot of black- ish-brown on the outer web ; the rest pale reddish- brown at the base, changing into brownish-black towards the ends, which are white ; some of the in- ner feathers tipped with yellowish-brown ; the mid- dle feathers are plain brown, with a darker spot towards the ends, which are slightly tipped with white ; upper tail-coverts and rump reddish-brown, the latter brighter ; upper parts brown, the feathers margined with reddish-brown ; primaries dark brown, with a large portion of the inner web white ; a spot of the same color on the outer webs towards the tips, excepting the first two; their coverts blackish-brown tipped with white ; secondaries white, with a large spot of brown towards the ends ; their tips, with those of the primaries, white ; secondary coverts brown, broadly tipped with white. Length ten inches, wing seven inches." Giraud. SANDEELING. Charadrius Rubidus, Wils. "Specific Character. Bill straight, black, along the gap one inch and one-eighth ; length of tarsi one inch ; hind toe wanting. Adult with the bill straight, about as long as the head. Spring plumage, upper parts, with the throat, fore-neck, and upper part of the breast rufous, intermixed with dusky and grey- BAY-BIRDS. 269 ish white ; deeper red on the back ; lower part of the breast, abdomen, and sides of the body pure white ; tarsi and feet black ; claws small, compress- ed ; primaries, outer webs, black ; inner webs light brown ; shafts brown at the base, tips black, rest parts white ; secondaries light brown, broadly mar- gined with white. Winter dress, lower parts white ; upper parts greyish-white, intermixed with black or dusky, darkest on the back. Length seven inches and three-quarters, wing four and seven-eighths." Giraud. TURNSTONE. Genus Strepsilas. Generic Distinctions. Bill shorter than the head, strong, tapering, compressed, and blunt; neck rather short ; body full ; wings long, of moderate breadth, and pointed ; tail round, rather short, and composed of twelve feathers; tarsus equal to the middle toe, and rather stout ; hind toe small, fore-toes free, with a narrow margin. BRANT-BIRD. Horse-foot Snipe, Turnstone, Beach-Robins. Strepsilas Interpres. This is a beautiful bird, and stools pretty well, but is rareand mostly solitary ; its young are at Egg Harbor sometimes termed beach-birds. The brant- bird is considered good eating. It feeds on the eggs of the king-crab or horse-foot, which it digs up by jumping in the air and striking with both its feet at 270 BAY-BIRDS. once into the sand, thus scratching a hole about three inches deep and an inch and a half across. " Specific Character. Bill black ; feet orange ; the head and sides of the neck streaked and patched with black and white ; fore part of the neck and upper portion of the sides of the breast, black ; low- er parts, hind part of the back, and upper tail-cov- erts white ; rump dusky ; rest of the upper parts reddish-brown, mottled with black ; primaries dusky ; a band across the wings and the throat white. Young with the head and neck all round, fore part of the back, and sides of the breast, dusky brown, streaked and margined with greyish-white ; wing- coverts and tertials broadly margined with dull red- dish-brown. It can at all times be identified by its having the throat, lower parts, hind part of the back, and the upper tail-coverts white, and the feathers on the rump dusky. Adult with the bill black, throat white, sides of the head mottled with black and white ; crown streaked with black on white ground ; on the hind neck a patch of white ; a patch of black on the sides of the neck, of which color are the fore-neck and the sides of the breast; lower parts white ; tail blackish-brown, white at the base, of which color are the lateral feathers, with a spot of black on the inner vanes near the end the rest margined with reddish-brown, and tipped with white; upper tail-coverts white; hind part of the back white ; the feathers on the rump black ; fore part of the back mottled with black and reddish- brown ; primaries dark brown, inner webs white ;* BAY-BIRDS. 271 secondaries broadly edged with white, forming a band on the wings ; outer secondary coverts reddish- brown, inner black; outer scapulars white, with dusky spots; inner scapulars reddish brown. In winter the colors are duller. Length nine inches, wing five and three-quarters." G-iraud. SANDPIPER. Genus Tringd. Generic Distinctions. Bill straight, slender, and tapering, compressed towards the end, and but little longer than the head ; body rather full ; wings very long and pointed ; tail rather short and nearly even ; tarsi moderate ; hind toe very small, and sometimes wanting ; fore toes slender, of moderate length, and generally divided. ROBIN-SNIPE. Bed-breasted Sandpiper. Tringa Cinerea, Wils. Winter. Tringd Rufa, Wils. Spring. This delicious and beautiful bird, although far from plentiful, furnishes excellent sport, coming readily to stool, and flying regularly and steadily. It mostly affects the marshy islands lying between the salt water creeks, and derives its name from a fancied resemblance to the robin, as he is termed among us. It is always gentle, occasionally abun- dant, and generally fat and tender ; by reason of its 272 BAY-BIRDS. steady flight it is not difficult to kill ; and its food, mostly shell-fi.sh, does not contribute an unpleasant flavor to its flesh. It arrives from the north about the middle of August, and often lingers for some time on the meadows. As the season advances its plumage becomes paler, till it acquires the name of white robin-snipe although I have often seen them late in August of the most beautiful and strongly marked coloring, the breast being a rich brownish red and the back a fine grey. The robin-snipe is of about the size of the dow- itcher, with a shorter and more pointed bill, and is killed indiscriminately on the stools with the other bay-birds. Its call consists of two notes, and is sharp and clear ; when well imitated, it will often attract the confiding snipe to the gunner, exposed in full view, and without decoys. This bird is very beautiful, and a great favorite. "Specific Character. Bill straight, longer than the head ; tarsi one inch and three-sixteenths long ; rump and upper tail-coverts white, barred with dark brown ; region of the vent and the lower tail- coverts white, with dusky markings. In spring the upper parts are ash-grey, variegated with black and pale yellowish-red ; lower parts, including the throat and fore-neck, brownish-orange. In autumn the upper parts are ash-grey, margined with dull white ; rump and upper tail-coverts barred with black and white ; lower parts white ; the sides of the body marked with dusky ; a dull white line over the eye. Adult in spring bill black ; a broad band of reddish E BAY-BIRDS. 275 brown commences at the base of the upper mandiUe, extends half-way to the eye, where it changes to reddish-brown ; upper part of head and the hind neck dusky, the feathers margined with greyish white a few touches of pale reddish-brown on the latter ; throat, fore-neck, breast, and abdomen red- dish-brown ; vent white ; lower tail coverts whit'.', spotted with dusky ; upper plumage blackish-brown, upper tail-coverts barred with black and white; tail pale brown, margined with white ; primary coverts black, tipped with white; secondary coverts grey- ish-brown, margined with white. Young with the upper parts greyish-brown ; the feathers with cen- tral dusky streaks, a narrow line of cinnamon-color towards their margins, which are dull white ; the lower parts ash-grey. Length of adult, ten inches ; wing, six and three-quarters." Giraud. UPLAND PLOVER. Grey, Grass, or Field Plover. Bartram's Sandpiper. Tringd Bartramia, Wils. This bird, although scientifically not a plover, is, by its habits, entitled to an appellation that common consent has bestowed upon it. It is found upon the uplands, never frequenting the marshes except by crossing them while migrating, and feeds, not on shell-fish or the innumerable minute insects that live in sand and salt mud, but on the grasshoppers and seeds of the open fields. It never takes the slightest 276 BAY-BIRDS. notice of the stools, is comparatively a solitary bird, and although continually uttering its melodious cry, does not heed a responsive call. On the -eastern extremity of Long Island, and along the coast of New England, are vast rolling and hilly stretches of land, where there are no trees and little vegetation, besides a short thin grass, and here the plovers rest and feed. Tiiey migrate to the southward in August, and appear about the same time scattered from Nantucket to New Jersey. In spite of their shyness and the difficulty of killing them, they are pursued relentlessly by man with every device that he finds will outwit their cunning or deceive their vigilance. Rhode Island has long been one of their favorite resorts, but has been overrun with gunners, who follow the vocation either for sport or pleasure, and there, for many years, the grey plover were killed in considerable quantities. Many are still found in the same locality, or further east, as well as at Montauk Point; but at Hempstead Plains, where they were once found quite numerous, they appear no longer ; and the eastern shore of New Jersey being unsuited to their habits, they rarely sojourn or even pause upon it. They travel as well by night as by day ; and in the still summer nights their sweet trill- ing cry may be heard at short intervals ; while dur- ing the day they will often be seen in small bodies, or uingly, winging their way rapidly towards the south. They are wary, fly rapidly, and are difficult to shoot, and, were it not for one peculiarity, would BAY-BIRDS. 277 escape almost scatheless. Alighting only in the open fields, where the thin grass reveals every enemy and exposes every approaching object to their view; readily alarmed at the first symptom of danger, and shunning the slightest familiarity with man, they are impossible to reach except with laborious and pain ful creeping that no sportsman cares to undertake. Not sufficiently gregarious or friendly in their na- ture to desire the company of wooden decoys, they cannot be lured within gunshot ; and it is only through their confidence in their fellow-beasts that their destruction can be accomplished. A horse, they know, has no evil design, does not live on plover, and may be permitted to come and go as he pleases ; a horse drawing a wagon is to be pitied, not feared ; and, most fortunately, the birds cannot conceive that a man would be mean enough to hide in that wagon, and drive that horse in an ingenious manner round and round them, every time narrowing the circle till he gets within shot. Man, however, is ready for any subterfuge to gain his plover ; and, seated on the tail-board, or a place behind prepared for the purpose, he steps to the ground the moment the wagon stops, and as the bird immediately rises, fires being often compelled, in spite of his ingenuity, to take a long shot. Even in this mode no large number of birds is killed, and by creeping or stalking few indeed are obtained. One inventive genius made an imitation cow of slats and canvas painted to represent the living animal, and, mounting it upon his shoulders, 278 BAY-BIRDS. was often able to approach without detection ; when near enough, or if the bird became alarmed, he cast off his false skin and used his fowling-piece. This was certainly an original and successful mode of modifying an idea derived from the times of ancient Troy. This bird is so delicious and so highly prized by the epicure, that no pains are spared in its capture ; it is by many superior judges regarded as the rich- est and most delicately flavored of the birds of America ; while its timid and wary disposition ren- ders it the most difficult to kill. It is, therefore, justly esteemed the richest prize of the sportsman and the gourmand, and holds as high a rank in the field as in the market. It is not, properly speaking, a bay-bird ; but as it is frequently shot from the stand when passing near the decoys, these few remarks concerning it are in- serted. It is essentially an upland bird, although from the nature of its migration it passes along the coast and occasionally far out at sea. " Specific Character. Bill slender, rather longer than the head ; tarsi one inch and seven-eighths ; neck rather long, slender ; axillars distinctly barred with black and greyish-white ; upper parts dark brown, margined with yellowish-brown ; fore-neck and fore part of the breast with arrow-shaped mark- ings ; rest of the lower parts yellowish -white. Adult with the bill slender, yellowish-green, dusky at the tip ; upper part of the head dark brown, with a central yellowish-brown line, the feathers mar- BAY-BIRDS. 279 gincd with the same color ; hind part and sides of the neck yellowish-brown, streaked with dusky; fore part of the neck and breast paler, with pointed streaks of dusky ; sides of the body barred with the same; rest of lower parts yellowish- white; lower wing-coverts white, barred with bru\vi;bh-black ; upper plumage dark-brown, margined with yellow- ish-brown, darker on the hind part of the back; primaries dark-brown ; coverts the same color; inner webs of the primaries barred with white, more par- ticularly on the first the shaft of which is white ; the rest brown, all tipped with white ; secondaries more broadly tipped with the same; coverts and scapulars dark-brown, margined with yellowish- brown, and tipped with white ; tail barred with black and yellowish-brown, tipped with white ; mid- dle feathers darker, tipped with black. Length ten inches and a half, wing six and five-eighths." Giraud. RED-BACKED SANDPIPER. Winter Snipe. Black-breast. Tringd Alpina, Wils. This bird absolutely has no common name. ''Specific Character. Bill about one-third longer than the head, bent towards the end ; length of tarsi, one inch. Adult with the bill black one-third longer than the head, slightly bent towards the end, and rather shorter than that of T. Subarquata ; upper part of the head, back, and scapular, chestnut- 280 BAY-BIRDS. red, the centre of each feather black, which, color occupies a large portion of the scapulars; wing- coverts and quills greyish-brown ; the bases and tip of the secondaries and parts of the outer webs of the middle primaries, white ; forehead, sides of thn head, 'and hind neck, pale reddish-grey, streaked with dusky ; fore neck and upper part of breast greyish-white, streaked with dusky; on the lower part of the breast a large black patch ; abdomen white ; lower tail coverts white, marked with dusky ; tail light-brownish grey, streaked the central fea- thers darker. " Winter dress, upper parts brownish-grey ; throat, greyish-white ; fore part and sides of neck, sides of the head, and sides of the body, pale brownish-grey, faintly streaked with darker; rest of the lower parr* white. Length, seven inches and a half; wing, four and an eighth." Giraud. LONG-LEGGED SANDPIPER Peep, Blind Snipe, Frost Snipe, Stilt. Tringd Himantopus. This bird also is nameless : it is rare, although 1 have killed quite a number of them, and I believe it> numbers are increasing ; it rarely consorts in flocks of more than five or six, stools readily, and is often mistaken for the yellow-legs. " Specific Character : Bill about one-third longer than the head, slightly arched ; length of tarsi, on their crowns violet-blue ; secon- daries black. Female, upper part of the head dusky, glossed with green ; side? of the head, upper portion of the sides of the neck, with the nape, greyish-brown ; a white patch behind the eye ; throat white, the bands on the sides of the neck faintly developed ; fore part and sides of the neck, with the sides of the 430 APPENDIX. body, yellowish-brown, marked with greyish-brown ; breast and abdomen white, the former spotted with brown ; lower tail-coverts greyish-white, mottled with brown ; tail and upper tail-coverts dark brown, glossed with green ; rump, back, and hind neck, dark brown, glossed with green and purple ; bill dusky, feet dull green. The crest less than that of the male, and plain dull brown. Length twenty inches ; wing eight inches and a half. This is nil extremely beautiful duck, but of mode- rate size ; it is rare on the sea-coast, but absolutely swarms during the month of September among the lily-pads of the Western swamps. Fed upon the berry of this plant, called at the South chincapin, it becomes fat and deliciously tender. It does not pay much attention to decoys. GREEX-WISTGED TEAL. Anas. Anas Crecca, Wils. Specific Character. Bill black, short, and nar- row ; the outer webs of the first five secondaries black, tipped with white; the next five plain rich green, forming the speculum; secondary coverts tipped with pale reddish-buff. Adult male with a dusky band at the base of the bill, of which color is the throat ; a faint white band under the eye ; upper part of the neck, sides of the head, and the crown, chestnut brown ; a broad band of bright green com- mencing behind the eye, passing down on the nape, APPENDIX. 431 where it is separated by the terminal portion of the crest, which is dark blue ; lower part of the hind neck, a small space on the fore neck, and the sides of the body, undulated with lines of black and white ; lower portion of the fore neck and upper part of the breast reddish-brown, distinctly marked with round spots of brownish-black ; abdomen yel- lowish-white, faintly undulated with dusky ; a patch of black under the tail ; outer tail-feathers buff, in- ner white, with a large spot of black on the inner webs ; tail brown, margined with whitish, the outer feathers greenish-black ; upper parts brown, faintly undulated with black and white, on the fore part of the back ; outer scapulars similar, with a portion of their outer webs black ; lesser wing-coverts brown- ash; greater coverts tipped with reddish-cream; the first five secondaries velvety-black ; the next five bright green, forming the speculum, which is bounded above by pale reddish-buff, and on each side by deep black ; before the wing a transverse, broad white band. Female smaller; head and neck streaked with brownish-white and dusky, darker on the upper part of the head ; lower parts reddish-brown, the feathers margined with dusky, upper parts dusky- brown, the feathers margined and spotted with pale reddish-white, without the chestnut red and the green on the head ; the black patch is wanting, as is the white band before the wings, the conspicuous spot on the wings is less extensive. Its short and narrow bill is at all times a strong specific character ; 432 APPENDIX. length fifteen inches ; wing seven inches and a half. This is an excellent little duck, too confiding for its own security, but capable of saving itself by great rapidity of flight. It is greatly attracted by decoys, and will generally alight among them if permitted. BLUE-WINGED TEAL. Anas Discors, "Wils. Specific Character. Bill bluish-black and long in proportion with the other dimensions of this species ; smaller wing-coverts light-blue ; speculum purplish- green. Adult male with the upper part of the head black ; a broad band of white on the sides of the head, before the eye margined with black; rest part of the head, and upper part of the neck greyish-brown, with purple reflections on the hind neck ; chin black ; lower parts reddish-brown ; lower part of the fore neck and sides of the body spotted with blackish- brown ; breast and abdomen barred with the same color; lower tail-coverts blackish-brown ; tail brown, margined with paler, the feathers pointed, a patch of white on the sides of the rump ; back brownish- black, glossed with green ; the feathers on the fore part of the back and lower portion of the hind neck mai'gined with yellowish- white ; primaries brown ; inner webs of the secondaries same color; outer vanes dark green, which form the speculum; second- ary coverts brown, the outer broadly tipped with white, the inner tipped with blue; tertials dark- APPENDIX. 433 green, with central markings of deep buff; feet dull yellow. Female without the white patch on the sides of the head ; throat white ; lower parts greyish-brown, the feathers spotted with darker; upper parts blackish-brown, the feathers margined with bluish- white and pale buff; smaller wing-coverts blue; speculum green ; secondary coverts the same as those of the male ; length fourteen inches, wing seven inches and a half. This species greatly resembles the last. SPOONBILL. Shoveller. Anas Clypeata, Wils. Specific Character. Bill brownish-black, about three inches in length, near the end it is more than twice as broad as it is at the base ; much rounded and closely pectinated, the size of the upper mandi- ble at the base having the appearance of a fine- toothed comb. Adult male with the head and the neck for about half its length glossy green, with purple reflections ; lower part of the neck and upper part of the breast white ; rest of the lower plumage deep chestnut-brown, excepting the lower tail-coverts and a band across the vent, which is black, some of the feathers partly green ; flanks brownish-yellow pen- cilled with black and blackish-brown ; inner second- aries dark green with terminal spot of white ; outer 434 APPENDIX. secondaries lighter green; primaries dark brown, their shafts white, with dusky tips; lesser wing- coverts light blue ; speculum golden-green ; rump and upper tail-coverts greenish-black, a patch of white at the sides of the rump ; tail dark brown, the feathers pointed, broadly edged with white, of which color are the inner webs of the three outer feathers. Female with the crown dusky; upper plumage blackish-brown, the feathers edged with reddish- brown ; breast yellowish-white, marked with semi- circular spots of white. Young male with similar markings on the breast ; length twenty inches and a half, wing ten. SEA-DUCK. Genus Fuligula. Generic Distinctions. In this class the head is rather larger, neck rather shorter and thicker, than in the preceding genus (Anas), plumage more dense, feet stronger, and the hind toe with a broad ap- pendage, which is the principal distinction. CANVAS-BACK. Fuligula Valisneria, Wils. Specific Character. Bill black, the length about three inches, and very high at the base ; fore part of the head and the throat dusky; irides deep red; breast brownish-black. Adult male with the fore APPENDIX. 435 head, loral space, throat, and upper part of the head dusky ; sides of the head, neck all round for nearly the entire length, reddish-chestnut, lower neck, fore part of the breast and back black ; rest of the back white, closely marked with undulating lines of black; rump and upper tail-coverts blackish; wing-coverts grey, speckled with blackish ; prima- ries and secondaries light slate color ; tail short, the feathers pointed ; lower part of the breast and ab- domen white; flanks same color, finely pencilled with dusky; lower tail-coverts blackish-brown, in- termixed with white ; length twenty-two inches, wing nine and a quarter. Female, upper parts greyish-brown ; neck, sides, and abdomen the same ; upper part of the breast brown ; belly white, pencilled with blackish ; rather smaller than the male, with the crown blackish- brown. This is without question the finest duck that flies, as it is the largest andgamest ; it is abundant late in the season, but waiy. RED-HEAD. Fuligula Ferina, Wils. Specific Character. Bill bluish, towards the end black, and about two inches and a quarter long ; hides yellowish-red. Adult male with head, which is rather large, and the upper part of the neck all roxind, dark reddish chestnut, brightest on the hind neck ; lower part of the neck, extending on the 436 APPENDIX. back and upper part of the breast, black ; abdomen white, darker towards the vent, where it is barred with undulating lines of dusky ; flanks grey, closely barred with black ; scapulars the same ; primaries brownish-grey ; secondaries lighter ; back greyish- brown, barred with fine lines of white ; rump and upper tail coverts blackish-brown ; tail feathers greyish-brown, lighter at the base; lower tail coverts brownish-black, rather lighter than the upper ; length twenty inches ; wing nine and a half. Female about two inches smaller, with the head, neck, breast, and general color of the upper parts brown ; darker on the upper part of the head, lighter on the back ; bill, legs, and feet, similar to those of the male. This duck, as it is scarcely distinguishable from the canvas-back, and has mainly the same habits, is but little inferior to that incomparable bird. BKOAD-BILL. Blue Bill. Scaup, Black Head, Raft Duck. Fuligula Marila, Linn. Specific Character. The head and neck all round, with the fore part of the brenst and fore part of back, black ; the sides of the head and the sides and hind part of the neck dark green, reflecting purple ; length of bill, when measured along the gap, two inches and five-sixteenths ; length of tarsi one inch and three- eighths ; length from the point of the bill to the end of the tail nineteen inches; wing eight inches and five-eighths ; a broad white band crossing the secon- APPENDIX. 437 daries and continues on the inner primaries. Adult male with the forehead, crown, throat, and upper part of the fore neck brownish-black ; sides of the head, neck, and hind neck, dark green ; lower portion of the neck all round, with the upper part of the breast, purplish-black ; rest of the lower parts white, undulated with black towards the vent ; under tail- coverts blackish-brown ; tail short, dark brown, mar- gined and tipped with lighter brown ; upper tail- coverts and rump blackish-brown ; middle of the back undulated with black and white ; fore part black ; wings brown, darker at the base and tips; speculum white, formed by the band crossing the secondaries and inner primaries ; scapulars and inner secondaries undulated with black and white ; secondary coverts blackish-brown, undulated with white. Female with a broad patch of white on the forehead ; head, neck, and fore part of the breast umber brown ; upper parts blackish-brown ; abdomen and lower portions of breast white ; scapulars faintly marked with white. WHISTLER. Golden Eye, Great Head. Fuligula Clangida, Linn. Specific Character. Bill black, high at the base, where there is quite a large spot of white ; head orna- mented with a beautiful crest, and feathers more than an inch long and loose ; insides yellow ; the entire head and upper part of the neck rich glossy- green, with purple reflections, more particularly so 438 APPENDIX. on the throat and forehead; rest of the neck, "with the entire plumage, white ; sides of the rump and vent dusky grey; tail greyish-brown; back and wings brownish-black a large patch of white on the latter, formed by the larger portion of the seconda- ries and the tips of its coverts ; legs reddish-orange. Length twenty inches ; wing nine inches. Female head and upper part of the neck dull brown ; wings dusky ; lower parts white, as are six of the seconda- ries and their coverts ; the tips of the latter dusky. About three inches smaller than the male. DIPPER. Butter Ball, Buffel-Headed Duck, Spirit Duck. Fuligula Albeola, Linn. Specific Character. Bill blue, from the corner of the mouth to the end about one inch and a half, the sides rounded, narrowed towards the point ; head thickly crested, a patch behind the eye and a band on the wings white. Adult male with the plumage of the head and neck thick, and long forehead ; loral space and hind neck rich glossy green, changing into purple on the crown and sides of the head ; from the eye backwards over the head a triangular patch of white ; the entire breast and sides of the body pure white ; abdomen dusky white ; tail rounded, greyish-brown ; upper tail-coverts lighter ; under tail-coverts soiled white ; back and wings black, with a patch of white on the latter. Female upper plu* magesooty-brown, with a band of white on the sides APPENDIX. 439 of the head ; outer webs of a few of the secondaries same color ; lower part of the fore neck ash-color ; breast and abdomen soiled white ; tail feathers rather darker than those of the male. Male fourteen and a half inches long ; wing six inches and three- fourths. Female rather smaller. The dipper is quite plentiful everywhere in the Northern States, but not much valued. OLD WIFE. South Southerly, Old Squaw, Long-Tailed Duck. Fuligula Glacialis, Linn. Specific Character. Length of bill, from the ter- mination of the frontlet feathers to the point, one inch and one-sixteenth the upper mandible rounded ; the sides very thin ; the bill rather deeply serrated, and furnished with a long nail ; tail feathers acute. In the male the middle pair of tail feathers are extended about four inches beyond the next longest, which character is wanting with the female. Adult male with the bill black at the base ; anterior to the nostril reddish-orange, with a dusky line margining the nail ; fore part of the head white, the same color passing over the head down the hind neck on the back ; eyes dark red ; cheeks and loral space dusky- white, with a few touches of yellowish-brown ; a black patch on the sides of the neck terminating in reddish-brown ; fore neck white ; breast brownish- black, terminating in an oval form on the abdomen the latter white ; flanks bluish-white ; primaries 440 APPENDIX. dark brown ; secondaries lighter brown, their coverts black ; a semicircular band of black on the fore part of the back ; the outer two tail feathers white the rest marked with brown, excepting the four acu- minated feathers, which are blackish-brown, the middle pair extending several inches beyond the others. Female without the long scapulars or elon- gated tail feathers ; bill dusky-green ; head dark, greyish-brown a patch of greyish-white on the sides of the neck ; crown blackish ; upper parts dark greyish-brown ; lower parts white. Length of male from the point of the bill to the end of the elongated tail feathers twenty-three inches; wing eight inches and five-eighths. Female about six inches less in length. This bird is abundant along the coast, but is generally tough and fishy. MERGANSER. Genus Mergus, Linn. Generic Distinctions. Bill straight, higher than broad at base ; much smaller towards the end ; upper mandible hooked; teeth sharp; head rather large, compressed ; body rather long, depressed ; plumage very thick ; feet placed far behind ; wings moderate, acute ; tail short, rounded. SHELDRAKE. APPENDIX. 443 SHELL-DKAKE. G-oosander Weaser. Mergus Merganser, Wils. Specific Character. Forehead low; head rounded, crested ; bill bright red, the ridge black, high at base; upper mandible much hooked. Adult male with the head and upper part of the neck greenish- black ; lower portion of the neck white ; under plumage light buff, delicately tinged with rose-color^ which fades after death ; sides of the rump greyish- white, marked with undulating lines of dusky ; fore part of the back and inner scapulars glossy black; hind part of the back ash-grey ; the feathers margined and tipped with greyish-white, lighter on the rump ; upper tail-coverts grey, the feathers marked with central streaks of dusky ; tail feathers darker ; pri- maries dark brown ; wing coverts and secondaries white, the outer webs of the latter edged with black ; the basal part of the greater coverts black, forming a conspicuous band on the wings; under tail-coverts white, outer webs marked with dusky grey, which is the color of the greater part of the web ; bill and feet bright red. Female with the head and upper part of the neck reddish-brown ; throat and lower neck in front white ; breast and abdomen deeply tinged with buff; upper parts and sides of the body ash-grey ; speculum white. Length of male, twenty-seven inches; wing, ten and a half. Female about three inches smaller. Young like the female. The American Agriculturist FOR THE Farm, Garden, and Household. Established in 1842. Tie Best anl Meanest Airicnltnral Journal in the World, TERMS, \vhich include postage pre-pald by the Publishers : $1.50 per annum, in advance ; 3 copies for $4 ; 4 copies for 5 ; 5 copies for 6 ; 6 copies for $7 ; 7 copies for $8 ; 10 or more copies, only $1 each. Single Numbers, 15 cents. AMERIKAITISCHER AGRICULTURIST. The only purely Agricultural German paper in the United States, and the best in the world. It contains all of the principal matter of the English Edition, together with special departments for German cultivators, prepared by writers trained for the work. 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