THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
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 Pleasant Memories 
 
 OF 
 
 Foreign Travel 
 
 By S. M. BURNHAM 
 
 AUTIIOK OF 
 
 "Tub ITiSTonY and Uses of Limestones and Marbles," 
 
 "PuECious Stones in Nature, Art and Literature," 
 
 "The Struggles of the Nations." 
 
 IFllustrateD 
 
 BOSTON: 
 BRADLEE WHIDDEN 
 
 1896
 
 COPYEIGHT, 1896, 
 
 BY 
 S. M. BUKNHAM.
 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The rapid transit across the ocean at the present time has 
 doubtless greatly increased the number of travellers to foreign 
 lands. Some tourists make an annual trip of only a few- 
 weeks. There may be advantages in such a plan, especially 
 for those who find it difficult to be absent from home and 
 business for a prolonged visit, while, on the other hand, time 
 and a careful study of the interesting objects and places to be 
 seen, in order to derive the greatest pleasure and benefit, 
 especially in visiting the celebrated art collections, is essential. 
 
 Most of the large cities of Europe attained their full growth 
 ages ago, hence they appear to-day much the same as in past 
 centuries, with the exception of having expanded their limits 
 by absorbing adjacent territory. Towns and cities in America 
 are often the growth of a few years, but it is not so in the Old 
 World, where time was needed for their development. There 
 antiquity is venerated ; here it is frequently regarded with 
 indifference. Mistakes and faults are common to both hemi- 
 spheres ; but frequent communication between the two will in 
 time correct many of these errors, and bring the nations into 
 a more familiar acquaintance with one another. 
 
 It requires weeks and months to explore and study the rich 
 treasures of art found in the museums of any one great city, 
 for which a special preparation is needed. One should be 
 familiar with the history of the country or city to be visited, 
 and should know what objects of interest are to be seen. He 
 should understand the history of the fine arts, including 
 architecture, and where the works of the great masters are 
 to be found. 
 
 There are many books published on foreign travel, and 

 
 IXTRODUCTIOX. 
 
 another added to the list may seem needless; but no two 
 persons visit precisely the same places, or are interested in the 
 same objects. Persons travel from different motives: some 
 for pleasure and change, some from curiosity, while others are 
 impelled by the desii-e of acquiring knowledge and to gratify a 
 taste for works of art. Excursion parties are desirable for 
 those whose time is limited ; but the rapidity with which they 
 move rendei-s it impossible for those travelling by that method 
 to gain any definite knowledge of what they see, especially in 
 the vast museums of art. 
 
 The writer visited all the places described, and made the art 
 collectfons a special study, so that the descriptions given are 
 the result of personal observations. The year spent abroad 
 was an eventful one in the history of some of the countries 
 visited, which afforded an opportunity of witnessing scenes 
 that will never occur again. 
 
 The incidents here described are from a daily journal kept 
 during the visit made in 1877 and 1878.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CIIArXEK I. 
 
 From Boston to Liverpool. 
 
 The Voyage. The Mail Steamer China. The Passengers. 
 Incidents of the Voyage. Cabin Steward. How the Time 
 was Spent. Sabbath at Sea. Officers and Sailors. Reflec- 
 tions. The Custom House. Arrival at Liverpool. St. 
 George's Hall. New Sights. A^isit to Chester. A Roman 
 Camp. Duke of Westminster. Walls of Chester. The 
 Switzerland of Great Britain. Chester Cathedral. The 
 Abbey. Church of St. John's. Racecourse. The Rows. 
 Palace of the Stanleys. God's Providence House. Bishop 
 Lloyd's House. Pemberton's Parlor. Grosvenor's Bridge. 
 Eaton Hall. Estates of the Duke of Westminster. Birk- 
 enhead. Journey to Scotland. The Lake Region of 
 England. Its Geological Formation. Building Stone. 
 The Home of Mrs. Hemans. Grasmere. Rydal [Mount. 
 Rydal Water. Ambleside. Graves of AVordsworth and 
 Coleridge. Homes of Arnold and Harriet Martineau. Kes- 
 wick, "sounding the Horn. The Mighty Helvellyn. 
 
 1—12 
 Southey's Home 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Scotland. 
 
 Journey to Glasgow. Carlisle. Mary Queen of Scots. Journey 
 to Edinburgh. Loch Lomond. The Trossachs. Sterling. 
 Dumbarton" Castle. William Wallace. A Legend. Vale 
 of Leven. Smollett. Rob Roy's Rock. Scottish Lakes. 
 Loch Katrine. Helen McGregor. Interesting Palaces. 
 Nature of the Trossachs. Highland Animals. Fitz James. 
 Roderick Dhu. Callender. Snowdown. Banuochburn. 
 Walter Scott. Monuments of Distinguished Scotchmen. 
 Museums and Art Galleries. The Castle. Carlton Hill. 
 St. Andrew's Square. Roslin Castle. Apprentices' Pillar.
 
 11 CONTEXTS. 
 
 A Tragical Stor}-. Ilawthornden. Scenery on the Esk. 
 Drummond. Sword of Bruce. Knox. An Interestius: 
 Family. Holyrood Palace. Tombs of the Scottish Kings. 
 Lord Darnley. Kizzio. Queen Mary. Royal Apartments. 
 Private Dwellings. Portraits of Scottish Kings. Holyrood 
 Castle. ^lous Megs. Scottish Eegalia. Arthur's Seat. 
 Agreeable Surprises. Iron Church. Heart of Mid Lothian. 
 Melrose Abbey. Abbotsford. A Valuable Guide. Sir 
 "Walter Leeds 13-23 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 From Edinburgh to London. 
 
 Sheffield. The English. Scenery. Vegetation. London. 
 "Westminster Abbey. Its History. St. Paul's. The "Whis- 
 pering Gallery. "Westminster Palace or House of Parlia- 
 ment. House of Lords. The Woolsack. St. Stephen's 
 Hall. Historical Events. A ISTational Capitol. Zoological 
 Gardens. National Galler}'. Turner's Paintings. Ken- 
 sington Museum. Raphael's Cartoons. Albert Memorial. 
 Equipages of the Mobility. Parks of London. British 
 Museum. The Portland Vase. The Crystal Palace. Col- 
 lege for the Blind. Bank of England. The Royal Ex- 
 change. Statue of George Peabody. The Mansion House. , 
 The Lord Mayor, (^jmipl e EaiTs^ Covent Garden Market. 
 The Tabernacle. Mn spurgeon/ The Royal Academy. 
 Palace of Hampton Court. Cardinal "Wolsey. Sloane's 
 Museum. London Tower. "Wax "Works. Museum of 
 Practical Geolog}-. Kew Gardens. The Guildhall. St. 
 James' Palace and Park. Temple Church. Inns of Court. 
 "Windsor Castle. Chapel of St. George. Greenwich. Dul- 
 wich. Downing Street. Dean Stanley. Journey to Paris. 
 Dieppe. Admiral Duquesne. Rouen. Place de la Pucelle. 
 Prince Arthur. Notre Dame 24-47 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Visit to France. 
 
 Scenes in Paris. The Louvre. Arc de Triomphe. Hotel de 
 Dieu. .lardin des Plantes. Labyrinth. Museum of Geology. 
 Museum of Comparative Anatomy. Place de la Concord. 
 Obelisk of Luxor. The Guillotine. The Tuileries. The 
 Gardens. Champ de Mars. Hotel des Invalides. Tomb of 
 Napoleon. Bois de Boulogne. The Madeleine. Cathedral
 
 CONTENTS. Ul 
 
 of Notre Dame. The Pantheon. Church of St. Germain. 
 St. Bartholomew. POre-le-Chaise. A Strange History. 
 Au Bon ^larchd. Magasin du Louvre. Palais Royal. 
 Cardinal llichlicu. Communists. Hotel du Luxemburg. 
 The Gardens. Ilosa Bonheur. Statue of Marshal Ney. 
 Palace of the Louvre. Versailles. Places of Interest. 
 The Bourse. Place Vendome. Napoleon's Column. Hotel 
 de Cluny. Gobelin Tapestry. Porcelain Manufactory. Isle 
 de la Citd. Sainte Chapelle. Church of St. Eustache . 48-61 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Belgium, — Switzerland. 
 
 Amiens. Brussels. "Waterloo. A Veteran. The Belgians. 
 Antwerp. Cologne. The Cathedral. Church of St. Ursula. 
 Sail on the Rhine. Ruined Castles. Coblence. Eren- 
 breightstein. Mayence. Heidelberg. Its Castle. Stras- 
 burg. The Cathedral. The Black Forest. Lake Constance. 
 City of Constance. The Cathedral. Schaffhausen. The 
 Falls. "U'esthausen. The Rhine. Zurich. Zwingli. Lu- 
 cerne. The Righi. Mt. Pilatus. Uri. Engelberg. The 
 Cathedral. Lion of Lucerne. Glacial Gardens. Ascent 
 of Mt. Righi. Fluelen. Lake Lucerne. William Tell. 
 Vitznau. An Accident. Brienz. The "Wetterhorn, Falls 
 of Griesbach. The Illumination. Lakes Hagel and Hexen. 
 The Edleweisse. Lake Brienz. Boenigen. Darlingen. Lake 
 Thun. Berne. The Aure. A Swiss Sunset. Geneva. 
 Hotel de Ville. The Alabama Commissioners. Lake 
 Geneva. The Rhone. The Russian Church. Chimney- 
 tops. Cathedral of St. Peter. The Arve. Les Bois de la 
 Batie. Prigny. Rothschilds. Chamounix. View of 
 Mt. Blanc. Les Aiguilles. Montanvert. Mer de Glace. 
 Glacier des Bois. Moving Glaciers. Mauvais Pas. A 
 Dangerous Descent. Peculiar Rocks. Martigny. Tetg 
 Noire. Col de Forclax. Swiss Peasants. Leuk. Brieg . 62-80 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 Switzerland to Italy. 
 
 Stresa. Lake Maggiore. The Simplon. Napoleon. Brenner 
 Pass. (ialleries and Tunnels. Cascades. Houses of 
 Refuge. The Hospice. Ilaltwasser Glacier. Avalanches. 
 Gallery of Algarby. Ravine of Gondo. The Diveria. San 
 Marco. Custom House. Domo d' Ossola. Gold and Marble
 
 IV CONTEXTS. 
 
 Mines. Montd Eosa. Berniua Pass. Hotel jSIilano. 
 Sunny Italy. Borromean Islands. Sail on Lake Maggiore. 
 Laverno. Yerese. Lake Lugano. The Grande Hotel. 
 Swiss Mountains. Porto. Custom House. Managgio. 
 Lake Como. Colico. Town of Como. Hotel d'ltalia. 
 Cathedral. Statue of Volta. From Como to Milan. Monza. 
 The Cathedral. The Iron Crown. Corso Victor Emman- 
 uel. Milan Cathedral. St. Dionysius. St. Carlo Borro- 
 meo. Theatre de la Scala. San Carlos. Leonardo da 
 Vinci. The Brera. Amphitheatre de I'Arena. Arc de la 
 Paix. The Last Supper. Churches. Arcades. Royal 
 Palace. Certosa. Parria. Monastery. Prom Italy to Ger- 
 many. Keturn to Como. Bellagio. Lombardy. European 
 Towns 81-89 
 
 CHAPTER VIL 
 
 From Italy to Germany. 
 
 Colico. Pass of the Splugen. Chiavenua. Babel. Via Malo. 
 Chur. Rorschach. Lindau. Munich. The Glyptothek. 
 Barberina Fawn. Schwanthaler. Wagner. Cornelius. 
 Artists of Munich. Exhibition Building. The Propylrea. 
 Royal Palace. Statues of Kings. The Niberlungeu. Lud- 
 wig Strasse. Public Buildings. Siegesthor, or Gate of 
 A^ictory. The New Pinakothek. Munich Gallery. The 
 Theatines. The Royal Vaults. Charles VI. Ludwigs- 
 kirche. The Ijast Judgment. Frauenkirche. St. Michael. 
 Thorw^aldsen. St. Gregory. The Old Pinakothek. Ru- 
 bens. Antique Vases. Loggie, or Arcade. Glass Works. 
 Bronze Works. American Subjects. Rogers. Maximilian 
 Strasse. The Iser. The Maximileaneum. The Basilica. 
 Crystal Palace. Botanical Gardens. Bavarian National 
 Museum. Historical Gallery. Journey to Leipsic. 
 Ratisbon. Fairs of Leipsic. Museum of Modern Works. 
 De-la-Roche. Other Artists. Battle of Leipsic. Ponia- 
 towski. Journey to Berlin. The Swiss. Unter Den 
 Linden. Brandenburg Gate. Monument to Victory. 
 Thiergarten. Museums. Tapestries. Assyrian Sculpture. 
 Gems. The Silver Treasure. Cabinet of Coins. Royal 
 Palace. Elector Frederick. Going through a Palace. Felt 
 Slippers. Throne Room. Portraits of Prussian Kings. 
 White Saloon. Palace Chapel. A Ghost Story. Rathause. 
 Mineral Collections. Churches. National Gallery. Bier- 
 garten. The Germans. National Bank. Jewish Syna-
 
 CONTENTS. V 
 
 gogue. Chateau of Monbijou, The Reichstag. Industrial 
 Ikluseum. Liiiieburg Collection. Wax Statuary. Kaiser 
 Gallery. Sans Souci. Potsdam. The New Palace. The 
 Lustgarten. Church of I'eace. Works of Art. Frederick 
 the Great. The Park. The Clock. Orangery. The (Jrotto 
 Saloon. Voltair's Pooni. Lessons Taught. Paris of the 
 North. Price of a Statue. Ancient Art. Roman Wall. 
 Zoological Gardens. Journey to Dresden. Churches. 
 Royal Vaults. The Zwinger. Museum. Johanneum 
 Museum. I*orcelains. Royal Manufactory. Historical 
 Museum. Armor. Paintings. Green Vaults. Chimney 
 and Silver Rooms. Hall of Precious Things. A Cherry- 
 Stone. Crown Jewels. Polish Regalia. Minerals. Casts. 90-115 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 Prague and Vienna. 
 
 The Switzerland of Saxony. The Elbe. Battle of Dresden. 
 Towns on the Elbe. Prague. Ilradschin Platz. Cathedral. 
 Kings' Monuments. St. John Nepomuc. His Silver Shrine. 
 Fortifications. The Moldau. Imperial Palace. Count 
 Thun. Palace of Wallestein and other Palaces. Great 
 Battles of History. Museum. Jewish Synagogue. The 
 Bridges. Journey to Vienna. Briinn. Baron Trenck. 
 Silvio Pellico. A Fossil Forest. The Burg at Vienna. 
 Imperial Jewels. Various Collections. Museum of Art and 
 Industry. The Belvedere. Prince Eugene of Savoy. Paint- 
 ings. Minerals. Amusing Blunder. Imperial Stables. 
 Impertinent Guide. Royal Palace. Churches. Monument 
 in Grabben Strasse. The Votive Church. Americans. 
 The Schonbrunu. The Gloriette. The Capuchins. Impe- 
 rial Vaults. Picture Gallery. Ambras Collection. Church 
 of St. Augustino. Monuments. Statue of Francis I. Aus- 
 trian Soldiers. The Arsenal. The Prata. Vienna a Beau- 
 tiful City 116-131 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 Second Visit to Italy. 
 
 From Vienna to Trieste, Semmering Pass. Tunnels and 
 Galleries. The Scenery. (Jratz. The Citadel. Castle of 
 Wildon. Tycho Brahe. The Drau. Cave of Adelsburg. 
 Julian Alps. The Adriatic. Bay of Trieste. Railway over 
 the Semmering. Trieste. Venice. Grand Canal. Gon-
 
 vi COI^TEXTS. 
 
 dolas. Custom TTouse. Square of St. jSIark. Campanile. 
 Sau ]Marco. Ducal Palace. The Pigeons. Koyal Palace. 
 Churches. Fuueral Procession. San Zaccaria. Paintings. 
 S. M. Formosa. Works of Art. St. Salvatore. St. Gio- 
 vanni. Crisostomo. Art Treasures. Santi Apostolo. S. 
 Felice. S. M. dell Orto. A Sail to the Ledo. Glorious 
 Sunset. Queen of the Adriatic. S. M. Gloriosa dei Frosi- 
 none. ^^lonument of Titian. Monument of Canova. A 
 Monastery. S. Kococo. Scuola di S. Rococo. Paintings. 
 Wood Carving. St. Pantaleone. Church of the Jesuits. 
 S. S. Giovanni e Paolo. Tombs of the Doges. The Valier. 
 Academy of Fine Arts. The Old Masters. Opinion of 
 Ruskin. Palace Giovanelli. The Doge's Palace. Secret 
 Tragedies. La Loggia. Porta della Carta. Silvio Pellico. 
 Scarla dei Giganti. Hall of the Great Council. Tintoretto's 
 Paradise. Voting Hall. Library of St. Mark's. Museum. 
 Sala della Bussola. The Three Inquisitors. Bocca di 
 Leone. Council of Ten. The Carcerie or Prison. Ponte 
 dei Sospere. Ascent of the Campanile. The Grand Canal. 
 A Visit to Padua. An Ancient City. Its Wars. Uni- 
 versity. Schools of Painting. Basilica of S. Antonio. 
 Monument of Petrarch. Statues. Cathedral. Municipio. 
 Bologna. Este. Rovego. Leaning Towers. Terrara. 
 Story of Tasso. Alphouso of Este. Savonarola. Monti 
 Eugauei. Xoted Buildings. Prince Henry. A Tragedy. 
 S. Petronio. Monuments of the Bacciocchi. Paintings. 
 St. Domenico. Madonna di S. Luca. Campo Santo. Via 
 di Saragozza. Monte della Guardia. St. Luea. Fine 
 Views. Tradition. Monuments of the Murats of Mezzo- 
 fan ti, Galiani, and Others. Leaning Towers of Bologna. 
 The University. Female Professors. A Celebrated Lin- 
 guist. College Students. Academy of Fine Arts. Picture 
 Gallery. ]iologna School of Art. Raphael's St. Cecilia. 
 City of Arcades. Churches. Monasteries. St. Stefano. 
 Piazza Victor Emanuele 132-150 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Florence^ Perugia, Terni. 
 
 Journey to Florence. Crossing the Apennines. Numerous 
 Tunnels. Pistoja. Prato. Monteferrato. Verde di Prato. 
 Arrival at Florence. The Cathedral. Campanile. Bap- 
 tistery. JJronze Doors. Picture Gallery. Ascending the 
 Dome. Extensive Views. Pitti Palace. Ufiizi Palace. Its
 
 CONTENTS. Vll 
 
 Art Collections, raintinfijs. Statuary. Clems, reruyia. 
 San Giovanni. Arez/.io. ISIacenas. J}irthi>hices of Eminent 
 Men. Cortona. Lake Trassemene. Perugia. S. Lorenzo 
 Cathedral. Chamber of Commerce. Palace Constal)ile. 
 Raphael's Madonna. Arco di Augusto. University. Um- 
 brian Painters. St. Sevcro. The Curiosity of the 
 Perugians. Terni and the Falls. A Persistent (Juide. 
 Picturesque Scenery. Papigno. Velino and Neva Rivers. 
 Cascate delle Marmore. Petref actions. Inundations. From 
 Terni to Rome. The "Eternal City." Plans for the 
 Future 151-159 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 Rome. 
 
 Colosseum. St. Peter's Church. Castle of St. Angelo. The 
 Pantheon. Narrow Streets. Churches. Monuments of 
 Leo X. and Clement VII. The Christ of M. Angelo. 
 Monastery. Galileo's Retraction. Library. Via St. Igna- 
 zio. Piazza Navona. Fountains. St. Agnes. Piazza del 
 Popolo. The Pincio. Albion Hills. Along the Tiber. 
 A December Rose. S. M. del Popolo. Grave of Emperor 
 Nero. A Tradition. Luther in Rome. Corsini Palace. 
 Gallery of Paintings. The Old Masters. Corsini Vase. 
 Christina, Queen of Sweden. Engravings. Gardens. S. M. 
 dell' Anima. S. M. delle Pace. Raphael's Sybils. St. An- 
 drea della Valle. Strozzi Chapel. Barberini Chapel. SS. 
 Luca e Martino. Marmatine Prison. Capitoline Museum. 
 Statue of a River God. Pasquino. S. M. Campitelli. Image 
 of the Virgin. St. Ignazio. Arch of Constantine. Arch of 
 Titus. Basilica of Constantine. Temple of Venus and 
 Roma. The Ruins of Rome. Colosseum. SS. Cosma e 
 Domiano. Palace of the Conservatory Ruins of the Palatine. 
 Busts of Distinguished Persons. Bronzes, Paintings, and 
 other Art Collections. S. M. Maggiore. Tradition. Tombs 
 of the Popes. Sistine Chapel. Borghese Chapel. S. Prax- 
 edis. S. Paolo. Gifts to this Church, Costly Churches. The 
 Poor Classes. Baths of Diocletian. S. Bernardo. S. M. 
 Degli. Barbarini Palace. Statue of Thorwaldsen. Beatrice 
 Cenci. The Fornarina. G. Rene's Aurora. Rospigliosi 
 Palace. The Casino. The Andromeda. Domeuichino. 
 Rubens. Sabbath in Europe. AVonders of Rome. The 
 Vatican. Museum. The Close of the Year . . . 1C0-1G9
 
 viii coxTEXis. 
 
 CmiPTER XII. 
 
 Borne, Continued. 
 
 S. Pietro in Yincoli. The Moses of M. Angelo. Eeflec- 
 tions. S. Lorenzo in Lucina. The Crucifixion. SS. 
 Trinita cli Monte. Piazza di Spagna. Borghese Palace. 
 Its Paintings. Colonna Palace. Its Art Treasures. S. 
 John Lateran. Ascent to the Top of St. Peter's. Palaces 
 of the Ca.'sars. Villas and Palaces. Church of the Capu- 
 chins. Sobieski. Ghastly Sights. St. Pietro in Montorio. 
 The Tempietto. Acquia Paolo. Trastevere. Ancient 
 Eomans. The Janiculus. Italians. Roman Streets. Vati- 
 can Museum. Doria Palace. St. Carlo al Corso. Piazza 
 di Pietra. Custom House. Temple of Antoninus Pius. 
 Death of the King. Mausoleum of Augustus. Xuovo 
 Braccio. Its Art Collections. Battle of Constantine and 
 Maxentius. Quirinal Palace. Attractions of Pome. Access 
 to the Vatican Museum Difficult. King Victor Emmanuel. 
 St. Croce in Gerusalemme. The Amphitheatre. St. Gio- 
 vanni in Laterano. Palace of the Popes. Works of Art. 
 Trajan's Forum and Column. Triumphal Arches. Funeral 
 Ceremonies of the King. A Magnificent Procession. 
 Italian Xobles. Soldiers. Banners. Foreign Ambassadors. 
 Their Decorations. American Minister. Spectators. Ital- 
 ian Courtesy. Impatience of Tourists. A Festival. St. 
 Trinita de Pelleguina. Hospital. The Crucifixion. 
 S. M. in Monticello. The Cenci Palace. Count Cenci. The 
 Pincio. Gardens of Lucullus. Villa Borghese. Piazza 
 del Popolo. Obelisk from Heliopolis. The Casino and its 
 Works of Art. Paulina Borghese. Classical Scenes. St. 
 Andrea della Fratti. Statue by Harriet Ilosmer. Mon- 
 uments. Academy of San Luca. Its Presidents. Works 
 of Art. Via Bonella. Ancient Gateway. Forums of 
 Cffisar and Au<:rustus. Baths of Caracalla. Their Influence. 
 The Cselian Hill. St. Stefano Rotondo. Palace Spada 
 alia Ilegola. Statue of Pompey. Portraits. Farnese 
 Palace. Arch of Janus. The Cloaca Maxima. The Aven- 
 tine. S. M. in Casmedin. The Bocca della Verita. Opus 
 Alexandrinum. Temple. S. M. del Sole. House of Cres- 
 centius, or Casa di Pvienzi. The Campagna. Appian Way. 
 Casale Rotondo. Gate of St. Sebastian. Queen of Roads. 
 Ruins. Aqueduct of Claudius. Alban Hills. Frascati. 
 Catacombs of St. Calixtus. Explorations. Sixtus II. St.
 
 CONTENTS. ix 
 
 Cecilia. Asylum for Christians. Danger of being Lost. 
 Church of St. Sebastian, Tradition. Circus Maximus. 
 Tomb of Cecilia Metella, Villa Medici. The Belvedere. 
 French Academy of Arts. Visits to the Vatican Museum. 
 Church of St. Onofrio. The Poet Tasso. His Monument. 
 Mementos of the Poet. AVorks of Ivaphael. Artists. Villa 
 Albani. Porta Salara. Prince Torlonia. Kajioleon I. 
 Vatican Mosaics. Villa Ludovisi. St. Clemente. Prior 
 Mullooly. Interesting Discoveries. Obelisk of Thebes. 
 Ascending the Colosseum. Church of St. Marco. Mon- 
 ument of J. ]Jonaparte. Museum Kircheriano. A Re- 
 markable Casket. " Permissos." The Sacristan. German 
 Tourists. OEcumenical Council. Works of the Masters. 
 Manufacture of Mosaics. Vatican Library. No Volumes 
 Seen. Art Treasures. Pius IX. Church of the Gesu. 
 Castle of St. Angelo. Hadrian's Tomb. Covered Passage. 
 Dungeon of Beatrice Cenci. Under the Palatine Hill. 
 Palaces of the Ctesars. The Guard. Studio of Edmonia 
 Lewis. Death of Pius IX. Artists' Studios. Modern 
 Painters. Ancient Masters. Eogers, the American Sculp- 
 tor. ]Miss Ilosmer. Reviews. The Pope lying in State. 
 Vast Multitudes. Thieves. Church of S. M. Maggiore. 
 The Confessio. Final Resting-place of Pius IX. . . 170-192 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 Journey to Naples. 
 
 Mt. Vesuvius. The Museum. Streets of Xaples. Villa Xazi- 
 onale. The Riviera. "Rotten Row" of Xaples. The 
 Mediterranean. Visit to Capri. Sorrento. The Blue Grotto. 
 Villages near the Volcano. Scenery about Xaples. The 
 Sabbath. Chapel of San Severo. Works of Art. Royal 
 Palace. Palace of Capodimonte. Art Treasures. Visit to 
 Vesuvius. Cabmen. Beggars. The Poor Classes. Life 
 on the Street. Fields of Lava. Fantastic Rocks. Utter 
 Desolation. The Observatory. The Hermitage. An Acci- 
 dent. Cathedral of Naples. Chapel of St. Januarius. 
 Crown of the Saint. Treasures. Churches. Excursion to 
 Pompeii. Institution of Fine Arts. Paintings. Church 
 of the Jesuits. St. Severino. St. Martino. Castle of St. 
 Elmo. The Certosa. Collections. Different Nationalities. 
 A Modern Babel. Vegetation in March. Visit to Pozzuoli 
 and Baia. The Grotto. Posilipo. Puteoli. Tomb of
 
 COXTEIJ^TS. 
 
 Virgil. Lake Agnano. Grotto del Cane, Grotto dell Ani- 
 moniaca. Baths of S, Germane. The White Mountains. 
 Edible Earth. Trachyte. Thermal Mineral Baths. 
 Views and Guides. The Solfatara. Sulphurous Fumes. 
 Echoes. Eruption. Puzzalano. Strange Phenomena. Ruins 
 in Pozzuoli. A Kemarkable Temple. Mt. Xuovo. Lake 
 Avernus. Grotto della Sibilla. Baths of Xero. Lake Lu- 
 cinus. Kuins. Heathen Temples. Baia. Ancient Palaces. 
 Grotto of Sijanus. Pausily Pou. The Museum. Pompeiian 
 Collection. Views from Xaples. Volcanic Tufa. Erisio. 
 Naples a I'aradise for Artists. Count Gigliano. Autographs. 
 A Curiosity. A Linguistic Family. An American Singer. 
 Snow on the Mountains. Uncomfortable Houses. Another 
 Visit te the Museum. Mosaic Pavements. Botanical 
 Gardens. The Eeclusoria. Via Cavour. Other Streets. 
 Portici. Eesina. Herculaneum. Explorations. Effects 
 of a Storm. Caserta. Amusing Incident. OlEcials. Palace 
 at Caserta. Avenue. Statues 193-207 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 Beturn to Borne and Other Cities. 
 
 Storm. Hotel Milano. Guests. Visit to the Churches. S. M. 
 in Ara Cceli. S. M. Liberatrice. Roman Forum. S. M. 
 in Transtevere. St. Cecilia. St. Prasede. Sacred Relics. 
 Museums. Custodians. St. John Lateran. Court of the 
 Monastery. Works of Art. Scala Santa. The Oldest Obelisk. 
 Other Antiquities. Villa Doria Pamfili. S. M. della Valle. 
 St. Pietro in Vincoli. The Moses. S. M. del Anima. 
 Monuments. St, Luigi di Francesi. St. Marco. A Scotch 
 Family. St, Peter's and the Vatican, Sermon by an Irish 
 Priest, Tarpeian Rock, The Capitol, Journey to Sienna 
 and Chiusi. Views in Sienna, Institution of Fine Arts. 
 St, Catherine, Siennese Artists. Gloomy Saints. Church of 
 St, Giovanni, A Baptism, The Duomo, The Pulpit of 
 Pisano, Stained Glass, Library. Pavement of Graffito, 
 Palazzo Publico, Tower del Mangia, The Del Campo, 
 Fountain Gaga, Location and Houses of Sienna, Pisa, 
 Sinalunga, Garibaldi, Empoli, Duomo of Pisa, Ascent 
 of the Tower, The Luugano, Genoa, The Scenery. 
 Thatched Cottages. Marble Quarries. Buildings, Churches. 
 Palace. Monument to Columbus. Palazzo Ducale. Palace 
 of Pallavicini. Art Gallery, The Terazzo di Marmo,
 
 CONTENTS. XI 
 
 Business Part of the City. The Ponte Carignano. Situ- 
 ation of CJenoa. Numerous Palaces. Commercial I'ursuits. 
 Villa Pallavicini, Grotto of .Stalactites. The Acquasola. 
 Villa Xegro. The IJuildings of Genoa. Art Collections. 
 Turin. Tunnels. Places of Interest. Novi. Marengo. 
 Asti. Cathedral of Turin. Tombs of the Dukes of Savoy. 
 Maria Ailelaid. Monastery of Capuchins, (irand Views. 
 The Superga. Peculiarities of Turin. Jewish Synagogue. 
 Palace and Poyal Armory. Monument of Cavour. A Ser- 
 mon in Italian. Cathedral. Academy of Art. Egyptian 
 Museum. Italy and Its People 208-221 
 
 CHAPTEK XV. 
 
 From Turin to Paris. — Second Visit. 
 
 The Journey. Grand Scenery. Modane. San Ambrogia. 
 Abbey St. Michele della Chiusi. Petrefactions. Mt. Cenis. 
 The Tunnel. Col de Fri'jus. Customs at Modane. Change 
 of Carriages. Stone Quarries. Travelling in France. 
 Pain Storm. Our " Pension." The Paris Exposition. A 
 Grand Procession. Distinguished Persons. Fireworks. 
 Au Bon Marche. Magasin du Louvre. Churches. Notre 
 Dame. Sainte Chapelle. The Madeleine. A Tragical Event. 
 St. Germain I'Auxerrais. Notre Dame de Lorette. Grounds 
 of the Exposition. Versailles. Its Fountains. Palaces 
 of France. Church of the Sorbonne. Visit to the Expo- 
 sition. Churches of St. Etienne du Mont. St. Genevidve. 
 St..Germame des Pr^s. Tomb of the Kings. Massacre of 
 Prisoners. Fine Arts at the Exposition. Cluny. St. Sul- 
 pice. Marbles. L'Ecole des Mines. Collection of the 
 Prince of Wales. Park Monceau. Bibliotheque Nationale. 
 Its Numerous Collections. The Marble Workers. Church 
 of St. Clotilde. 116tel de Ville. Church of St. Gervais. 
 Isle and Church of St. Louis. Hotel Lambert. Trocaddro 
 at the Exposition. Museum of the Louvre. Last Visit to 
 the Exposition. Danish Landscapes .... 222-230 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 From Paris to Boston. 
 
 Route to England. Crossing the Channel. The Steamers. A 
 Delightful Region. Stop in London. Visiting New Scenes, 
 and revisiting those seen Before. St. Paul's. Welling-
 
 xii COXTENTS. 
 
 ton's Monument. British ^fuseum. Ancient Remains. 
 Library. Mineral Collections. London "Weather. St. 
 James' Park. " Trooping the Colors," Queen's Birthday. 
 Princes and Xobles. National Gallery. Turner's Paintings. 
 Landseer. "Westminster Abbey. Eoyal Architectural Muse- 
 um, ^luscum of Practical Geology. Crown Prince and 
 Princess of Germany. Custodian's Reply. Information of 
 the Masses. Eminent Preachers. Dean Stanley. Spur- 
 geon. Parker. From London to Liverpool. England a 
 Garden. Its Scenery. Manufactures. St. George's Hall, 
 Liverpool. Picture Gallery. Museum. Paintings. The 
 Last Moments of Charles II. Stuffed Birds. Classification 
 for Objects at the Museum. The Steamer Marathon. A 
 Review of the Past Year. Lessons learned. Remarks 
 about the English, Germans, French, Swiss, Italians. 
 Arrival at Queenstown. Time spent on Board. Subjects 
 for Observation. The Passengers. A Sailor's Life. The 
 " Banks." A Dense Fog. Vigilance of the Captain. 
 Sailors' Entertainments. The ISIarathon Suddenly stops. 
 Passengers Anxious. Buoys the Cause. Placed by the 
 Submarine Telegraph Co. A Pilot taken on Board. Cape 
 Cod. Custom House and Quarantine Officers. Landing in 
 Boston. Meeting Friends. Lessons taught by Travel. 
 A Preparation Necessary 231-240
 
 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 From Boston to Liverpool, Chester, and the Lake Itegion. 
 
 The passion for travel is strong with most of the human 
 family, but with Americans it is irresistible ; therefore to 
 gratify this propensity, after having visited most of our own 
 states and cities, we decided to make a journey across the 
 ocean and see our transatlantic cousins in their native homes. 
 
 Having made due preparation for a prolonged absence, we 
 embarked, June 16, on board the Royal Mail Steamer China, 
 of the Cunard Line, for Liverpool. 
 
 In these days of rapid transit, what is gained in time is 
 small compensation, except to business men, for the pleasure 
 and quiet rest of a longer voyage, provided one escapes the 
 much dreaded attack of sea-sickness. There were on board, 
 besides many steerage passengers, between seventy and eighty 
 persons occupying staterooms ; these passengers comprised 
 several nationalities. We were fortunate in securing two rooms 
 all to ourselves. These were directly opposite those of Sir 
 C. Y. and Lady, very quiet neighbors, but completely environed 
 by stately reserve, so that for ten days we passed and repassed 
 one another without a sign of recognition, which they would 
 not probably have given for an earl's coronet. 
 
 Four regular meals, besides a late supper for those who 
 wished it, were served on board the steamer, so that no one 
 was in immediate danger of starvation. While at dinner on
 
 2 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 the first day of the V03^age, a number of the passengers sud- 
 denly left the table, an act which on land would have been 
 regarded as a violation of tlie rules of good breeding ; at tea 
 only one lady was present. 
 
 Life at sea is so monotonous, dreamy, and indolent that the 
 passengers avail themselves of every opportunity to meet their 
 fellow-travellers, and this can be enjoyed at table and on 
 deck. The second day of the voj^age was Sunday, a beautiful 
 dav, but how strange the serene stillness about us ! Not a 
 church bell was heard, nor the sound of a carriage or pedes- 
 trian ; not a living creature to be seen or heard, except on 
 board our ship. We were so enveloped by fog that we seemed 
 to be sailing in a very small circle ; but towards evening we 
 were favored with a magnificent sight — a glorious sunset, while, 
 to the delight of all the passengers, a sail was discovered on 
 the verge of the distant horizon. 
 
 By the second day of our voyage we had become tolerably 
 familiar with the swell of the sea and the rocking of the vessel, 
 so that to one comfortably bundled into a ship chair, watching 
 the efforts of inexperienced voyagers in their attempts to 
 promenade the deck, it was very amusing. They had the 
 symptoms of one who had taken too much wine at dinner. 
 However, a passenger soon acquires confidence and skill in 
 maintaining his centre of gravity ; and in spite of an occasional 
 pirouette, and a plunge against the bulwarks, he soon acquires 
 a genuine sailor gait. There was one indefatigable walker on 
 board, so cautious that he managed his limbs as if they were 
 glass, and in danger of breaking. 
 
 On the anniversary of the battle of Bunker Hill, we were 
 presented, by an American gentleman, with a small national 
 flag, which we fondly cherished and kept for protection, as no 
 foreign stranger would have the impertinence to insult our 
 government in the person of one of its citizens bearing its flag. 
 
 We were more fortunate than most of our fellow-passengers, 
 in escaping the usual penalty of a sea voyage, which excited the 
 surprise of our cabin steward, who could hardly be persuaded 
 it was our first experience on the ocean. Apropos of this
 
 ENGLAND AND THE LAKE REGION. 6 
 
 oflicial, he was a stalwart Englishman, very capable, faithful, 
 and obliging, and who seemed much above his calling, tliough 
 wholly unconscious of the fact. He served in the capacity of 
 cabin and table steward ; and if he was a type of an English 
 waiter, we thought it would be fortunate to be served by such. 
 
 After tlie convalescents made their appearance, there was 
 more animation on board, and one after another, the vacant 
 seats at table were filled, while the deck, at certain hours, 
 afforded a social and agreeable scene. Couples paired for 
 evening promenades, notwithstanding there were long rows of 
 mummies arranged along the deck, too indolent or too timid 
 to venture on a pedestrian exercise, which, when one becomes 
 accustomed to it, is not only healthful, but also enjoyable. 
 
 The luxurious sea chairs are valued as household gods ; and 
 who could refuse the tempting pleasure of reclining in such a 
 cradle, rocked by the great ship, half dreaming, half awake, 
 with nothing to do but gaze at the sky and the ocean, bills all 
 paid, luggage carefully stowed away, nothing to care for, noth- 
 ing to fear unless it be that of arriving too soon at the end of 
 the voyage, when dreams end and all sorts of annoyances pecul- 
 iar to travel bsgiii, such as impositions, extortions, beggars, 
 fees, and the like. 
 
 The weather at sea is much cooler than on land, even in the 
 same latitude, so that we needed an abundant supply of wraps 
 when on deck. We had selected June for our voyage, because 
 it was considered less liable to storms than the other months of 
 the year ; and in this respect we were not disappointed, though 
 on the third day after leaving home there were signs of such 
 an event, when the sky became overcast and the sun went down 
 in a cloud. As grand as a storm must be on the ocean, we 
 felt that pleasant weather and smooth sailing were more to 
 be preferred. However, the steamer rolled and tossed un- 
 pleasantly, giving us a hint what she could do in a storm. The 
 weather prognostics did not altogether fail, since the next 
 morning was foggy, windy, and somewhat rainy, causing the 
 " invalids " to relapse and the deck to be vacated, though we 
 persevered in maintaining our post of observation.
 
 4 PLEAS A XT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 Life at sea would be unbearable if one could not be on deck ; 
 at its best, it is very monotonous, after the novelty has worn 
 off. We saw very few sails, for this line of steamers has a 
 route of its own as well defined as a highway on land. This 
 is an advantage by avoiding collisions, but would it not be 
 inconvenient in case of accidents ? Little groups of passengers 
 were scattered about as if at a loss for amusement. When one 
 is shut out from the great busy world, he must depend upon 
 his own resources for entertainment, and lonely, indeed, is that 
 poor traveller who has none. A book, especially a guide-book, 
 serves the purpose, not only of diversion, but also of instruction, 
 when one is weary of gazing at the sky, the water, or the same 
 people seen every day, though on the whole our time passed 
 very pleasantly, since there had been little to disturb the dolce 
 far niente life on board an ocean steamer. The sensation to us 
 was very peculiar ; perhaps others have experienced the same. 
 We seemed to be sailing in a deep, circular basin, with its 
 broad rim surrounding us, though we were never able to reach 
 its border. 
 
 One evening the sailors entertained the passengers with 
 music, songs, and acrobatic feats, for which a collection was 
 taken, and on Sunday religious services were held in the din- 
 ing-saloon, when the Rev. Mr. B. officiated. As our genial 
 company would soon separate, never to meet collectively again, 
 a particular description of some of the party may not be unin- 
 teresting. There were four Cubans, who kept by themselves 
 and spoke only Spanish, one Pole, who could converse in 
 English, a French professor, an American professor, an arch- 
 bishop, four clergymen, an English baronet and lady, several 
 students, business men, women and children, including many 
 nationalities. The Rev. Mr. B. was the jolliest man on board, 
 with a face like a full moon, and a genuine Scotch accent ; 
 Mr. F., a true Yankee in manners and nasal peculiarities ; 
 Mrs. W., a few days' bride, formerly a widow, with a young 
 son of inquisitive, mischievous ways, who had unlimited 
 indulgence, as the bride and bridegroom were wholly absorbed 
 with each other ; an English couple who had been to America
 
 ENGLAND AND THE LAKE REGION. 5 
 
 to spend tlieir lioneymoon ; and an Englishman who was very 
 interesting in conversation. The captain was very quiet and 
 reserved, and the surgeon was a tall Irishman, who was evi- 
 dently very much fascinated by a certain young lady with 
 whom he sought every opportunity to promenade. A number 
 of ladies kept their staterooms, and seldom appeared on deck. 
 All the arrangements on board were quiet, neat, and orderly. 
 The officers and sailors showed excellent training, and the 
 stewards were capable and obliging; in short, there was 
 nothinof wantingr for the comfort and entertainment of the 
 passengers, so that the end of the voyage was not an object to 
 be desired. 
 
 As the steamer neared Queenstown, where many of the pas- 
 sengers were to land, there was some eager curiosity to catch 
 the first glimpse of terra firma. Here a pilot came on 
 board with the first tidings from America, when the steamer 
 proceeded to Liverpool, the end of our voyage. What a 
 change from ship to shore ! On the vessel no one was a for- 
 eigner; the ocean is the birthright of all nations, and equally 
 the home of every one. Not so when one steps on shore. Here 
 in Europe are different customs, manners, languages, and laws ; 
 different races and social life ; indeed, everything is new, strange 
 and peculiar. One is set adrift on an unknown ocean to en- 
 counter whatever may chance to be his destiny, with no one to 
 feel the slightest interest in his welfare ; he is to be engulfed 
 in the great sea of humanity which is seething with conflicting 
 passions struggling for the mastery. After some delay we 
 landed and went through the ordeal at the Custom House, 
 which was quite superficial, the only objection being the rough 
 and careless manner in which the porters handled our baggage, 
 or luggage as it is called abroad, throwing heavy trunks 
 from their shoulders onto the floor without the least concern 
 whether they were broken or not. 
 
 It being settled that we had no contraband goods, our lug- 
 gage was transferred to a van, while our little party, that is, 
 Mr. and Mrs. P. and the writer, took a cab for the Adelplii, 
 considered the best hotel in Liverpool. The arrangements
 
 6 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 were comfortable, but not elegant ; everything seemed English, 
 or, in other words, staid, orderly, and slow. The waiters, in 
 their black coats and white cravats, looked as solemn as clergy- 
 men at a funeral, and they were as stiff as they were grave. 
 Mr. P. ordered a dinner of roast beef, but it could not be ready 
 for nearly an hour ; therefore as we were anxious to begin 
 sight seeing, we took a lunch and started out. We first went 
 to St. George's Hall, an elegant building of dark sandstone of 
 the Grecian style of architecture. Then taking a public con- 
 veyance, we rode several miles into the suburbs of the town. 
 Here we had our first view of English country seats, quite like 
 what our imagination had pictured. An American soon per- 
 ceives how different everything is from his native land: the 
 buildings, both in town and countr}'-, are unlike those of his 
 own ; the quaintness of many houses arrests his attention, 
 especially the peculiar chimney tops of pottery, arranged in 
 different styles, some grouped in a row, while others stand 
 solitar}' ; another peculiarity is the tiled roof. 
 
 While stopping at Liverpool we visited Chester, a quaint 
 old town, fifteen miles from there. It is on the site of the 
 Roman camp, and is supposed to have received its name from 
 Castra, meaning a camp. The walls of the town, still in excel- 
 lent preservation, occupy the same lines drawn by the Imperial 
 Roman generals. They were built by the conquerors, and 
 restored by a daughter of Alfred the Great, in the beginning 
 of the tenth century. Chester, being a walled town, has been 
 considered an important place to hold, in all the wars and 
 revolutions of the island, down to the Fenian raid. On arriv- 
 ing there, we made our headquarters at the Grosvenor Hotel, 
 the name being derived from the family of the Duke of West- 
 minster, whose estates are quite near, and whose eldest son 
 bears the title of Earl of Grosvenor, Our first visit was to 
 the wall of the town, which we ascended by steps, and upon 
 which we walked as far as the Phcenix Tower, an old structure 
 upon the broad wall where Charles I. watched the defeat of his 
 army at Rowton Moor. During the civil war between the king 
 and Parliament, Chester was one of the most loyal towns of all
 
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 ENGLAl^D AND THE LAKE REGION: 7 
 
 England. One can walk entirely around the city on its walls, 
 from which fine views of the surrounding country may be 
 seen. This old town is on the River Dee, near the borders of 
 Wales; and though we did not cross the boundary, yet we 
 could view the ''Switzerland of Great Britain" from the 
 PliQ'nix Tower. 
 
 The Chester Cathedral is very ancient, having been founded 
 in 1093 by Hugh Lupus, nephew of William the Conqueror. 
 It was constructed of red sandstone, the prevailing rock in this 
 part of England. As it was some centuries before it was com- 
 pleted, it represents the styles of different periods, as the 
 Norman and the Late Decorated Gothic. The exterior of the 
 building is grand and imposing. The west front is very beauti- 
 ful, with its elegant windows, elaborate tracery, ornamental 
 mouldings, spandrils, embattled parapets, and other decorations 
 peculiar to the fascinating Gothic style of architecture. The 
 interior does not equal the exterior in attractive beauty, some 
 portions being quite destitute of ornament, though others are 
 highly embellished. The choir, separated from the nave by a 
 Gothic screen of stone very elaborately sculptured, is the most 
 interesting part of the interior, with its pavement of black and 
 white marble, beautifully carved stalls, canopies, pinnacles, pen- 
 dants, and the Bishop's Throne. The Cathedral is enriched by 
 elegant stained glass windows. During our visit to this ven- 
 erable church, we had the opportunity of attending a choral 
 service, the singing being mainly by boys. The ruined abbey, 
 near the old cloisters, with their little enclosure of greensward, 
 carried the imagination back for many centuries, when monks 
 lived and died here, and their steps left traces in the worn 
 pavements. The Cathedral, though very ancient, is not the 
 oldest church in the city, for just outside the walls, St. John's, 
 founded in 689 A. D,, claims this honor. At the east end are 
 the ruins of chapels recently exhumed, containing some beauti- 
 ful relics of Gothic ornaments, windows, bosses, etc., the whole 
 overgrown with moss and ivy. 
 
 Near Chester is the famous Rood-eye racecourse. Having 
 seen a racecourse, one can easily understand why it should be
 
 8 PLEASAXT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 called " the turf," for the ground is covered with a soft, green 
 turf or sward that appears as harmless to fall upon as a bed of 
 feathers. Another peculiar feature of Chester is what receives 
 the name of the "Rows," found in the old Roman streets of 
 the town. They consist of two terraces of shops, one above 
 another, occupying the front, and reached by steps at certain 
 distances apart. 
 
 Some of the other notable buildings are the " Palace of the 
 Stanleys," with three gables joined, presenting the appearance 
 of three houses with plain, heavy, projecting eaves and numer- 
 ous small windows. The lower story resembles underground 
 rooms, as if they might be fruit cellars or beer saloons. " God's 
 Providence " is a building so called from the circumstance that 
 its inmates were spared during a deadly plague ; the house is 
 decorated with ornamental panels. Bishop Lloyd's residence 
 is another of the quaint buildings found here, while " Pem- 
 berton's Parlor " was an old tower on the walls, of historical 
 interest. The oddity and quaintness of many of the houses, 
 some having peculiar ornaments on their exterior, render 
 Chester a place of interest to the traveller. Grosvenor's Bridge, 
 over the Dee, a modern structure, is remarkable for its single 
 arch of two hundred feet in length, forty feet in height, and 
 forty-eight in thickness. 
 
 Leaving Chester, our party drove to Eaton Hall, the English 
 country seat of the Duke of Westminster. His grounds 
 embrace ninety-six square miles, while in addition to this estate 
 he owns one in Ireland and another in Wales, and is the pro- 
 prietor of entire villages. Every house in Aldford, except one, 
 whose owner refuses to part with it for any sum, is owned by 
 this nobleman. One can hardly form a correct idea from any 
 verbal description of the variety, extent, and beauty of an 
 English peer's hereditary estate. Deer, sheep, cattle, and horses 
 are scattered over the grounds, not promiscuously, but in 
 separate pastures ; while noble trees, charming driveways, green 
 fields, and grazing cattle constitute interesting features in the 
 scene. Nor is this all, for fruits and flowers in great variety are 
 seen on every hand, while greenhouses and hothouses are
 
 ( iiAi:i,i;> 1. 'I'owi'.K. 
 
 \Vatek-(!ati-: Si i;i:i;t. 
 
 (.iou'n l'Hi«\ ii>i:.M ic JI<>i.->h. Hisimi- I,i.i>n>> Moish. 
 
 VIEWS IN CHESTER.
 
 ENGLAND AND THE LAKE REGION. 9 
 
 scattered about, filled with rare and beautiful flowers and 
 delicious fruits, both native and exotic. Eaton Hall, the resi- 
 dence of the proprietor, was under repairs and not open to 
 visitors. It is a magnificent pile four hundred and sixty 
 feet long, of light-colored sandstone and Gotliic in style, with 
 numerous towers, parapets, turrets, windows, etc., and, it is 
 said, a sumptuous interior, the marble floor of the entrance hall 
 alone costing sixteen hundred guineas, or between eleven and 
 twelve thousand dollars. It constitutes a fitting ornament 
 to the magnificent park it adorns. 
 
 After our delightful excursion to Chester and its environs, 
 we returned to Liverpool by water, which took us past Birken- 
 head, where the Alabama was built, which we Americans have 
 cause to remember with no amiable feelings towards Great 
 Britain. We left Liverpool June 28 for the " lake region " 
 on our way to Scotland. As we journeyed north, the scenery 
 became more divereified, and we feasted our eyes on hills and 
 mountains, an agreeable change from the lowlands we had left. 
 The first part of our route lay along the " Sands," as the 
 region is styled, by the side of Morecambe Bay, a branch of the 
 Irish Sea. We passed some charming small towns, comprising 
 Grange, a picturesque little place situated partly on the side of 
 a hill and partly in a valle}-. The declivities grew more 
 rugged and steep as we advanced into the " lake region," re- 
 minding one of the hilly sections of New Hampshire, excepting 
 those of the White Mountains ; there is nothing in England 
 to compare with them for grandeur. Arriving at the foot of 
 Lake Windermere, we embarked in a trim little steamer for 
 the head of the lake; and as we sailed towards the north, the 
 scenery became more grand, resembling somewhat that on the 
 Hudson as one approaches the Highlands. Windermere is 
 eleven miles long, but only one mile wide, so in appearance it 
 is only a medium sized river. The hills and mountains here 
 afford a peculiar geological formation. The prevailing rock is 
 slate, which in many localities is broken into blocks disposed 
 in regular layers, as if arranged by the hand of art. All the 
 buildings in this region were constructed of this dark slate,
 
 10 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGX TRAVEL. 
 
 ■while those of Liverpool and Chester were of sandstone, show- 
 ing that the predominant rocks of the different localities are of 
 distinct species. The dark stone houses, barns, walls, and every 
 other kind of structure impart a sombre aspect to the land- 
 scape, though when embowered in the rich green shrubbery 
 and covered with numerous creeping plants, which concealed 
 their rough surfaces, the effect was pleasing. The loveliness 
 of the " lake region " of England has not been exaggerated by 
 the poets, and the tourist will be well repaid for a journey 
 thither. Near the head of Lake Windermere we passed Dove's 
 Nest, the residence of Mrs. Hemans ; and on arriving at Water- 
 head, the end of our voyage, we went to a very comfortable, 
 very English hotel, where we passed the night ; but as it was 
 some time before the close of day, we engaged a carriage and 
 drove to Grasmere, Grasmere Lake, Rydal Mount, Rydal 
 Water, a lake in miniature, and Ambleside, places memorable 
 in the literature of England. Wordsworth and his family lie 
 buried in the churchyard of the little village of Grasmere, 
 under the yew tree ; and near the poet's grave is that of Hartley 
 Coleridge, who died in 1851, a year after Wordsworth. We 
 entered the little ancient church adjoining, said to be eight 
 or nine hundred years old, a statement we could believe 
 from the extreme rudeness of its construction. Near the 
 pulpit was the square pew bearing the name Rydal Mount, 
 and on the wall was a tablet with the likeness of the poet in 
 marble relief. We entered and sat down on the same seat he 
 occupied so many years ; for Wordsworth was a constant attend- 
 ant at religious worship, though his home was a good distance 
 from the church. Leaving Grasmere, the last resting-place of 
 the bard, we went to Rydal Mount, his home while living; but 
 we could see the exterior only, as the house had passed into 
 the hands of those who declined to gratify the curiosity of 
 strangers, by admitting them to the interior. The house is 
 very modest and quite small for so distinguished an occupant 
 as its former master ; but like so many English country 
 homes, it was enveloped in shrubbery and surrounded by trees. 
 Opposite the cottage is quite a large grove of beeches, in which
 
 ENGLAND AND THE LAKE REGION. 11 
 
 rooks were flying about witli considerable noise. Tlie place is 
 very appropriately named Rydal Mount, since it is situated 
 on the declivity of a liill of considerable size. A little 
 distance off, there is a high rock, ascended by steps cut into 
 tlie cliff, where Wordsworth was accustomed to compose his 
 poems. 
 
 Not far from Rydal Mount was the home of Coleridge ; and 
 at some distance from the road is Fox How, the home of 
 Arnold. Ambleside, the residence of Harriet Martineau, at the 
 foot of Wansfel, a mountain a little more than fifteen hundred 
 feet in height, is quite peculiar ; the streets, which can hardly 
 be called such, are laid out without any regularity, and the 
 buildings seem to have been scattered at random. As we 
 came to the cottage of Miss Martineau, one of our party alighted 
 to enter, and was admitted to the room where she died. After 
 returning to our hotel, we were booked for outside seats on the 
 stage for Keswick, but alas for our comfort ! as the morning 
 was rainy. There was no help for us ; and as we had secured 
 our seats to enjoy the prospect, we were compelled to keep 
 them. Keswick was seventeen miles away, so we had an 
 opportunity of knowing what an English rainy day was like. 
 Our landlady, with genuine hospitality, furnished us with 
 waterproofs, to be returned by the stage, as ours were packed 
 away in our luggage ; so in spite of the rain we had some 
 compensation for our premature choice of seats. We had the 
 pleasure of witnessing an old English custom, that of sounding 
 a horn on the arrival and departure of the stage. This horn 
 was a formidable instrument, being as long as a musket, and 
 no one but an expert could produce the peculiar sound of 
 which it was capable. 
 
 The scenery between Ambleside and Keswick is beauti- 
 fully picturesque, with hills and mountains on each side, and 
 charming valleys, richly cultivated, lying between, while here 
 and there a little town reposes in their quiet bosoms. We 
 passed a good distance along the base of the " Mighty Helvel- 
 lyn," three thousand feet high, on whose side is " Striden Edge 
 round the Red Tarn bending, and Catchedicam its left verge
 
 12 ' PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 defending," as Scott says. After several hours we reached 
 Keswick, situated on the Derwentwater, where the sceneiy is 
 more wild and rugged than at Windermere. Tliis little sheet 
 of water is studded with islands. One of them, appearing and 
 disappearing at intervals, is a floating island. About a mile from 
 the village is Greta Hall, the home of the poet Southey, who 
 was buried in the yard of the ancient parish church. The 
 whole of this region, including that about Grasmere and Win- 
 dermere, is memorable in the literature of England. Every 
 mountain, hill, valley, lake, stream, and almost eveiy crag has 
 a liistory, whose quaint names have become a part of the lan- 
 guage of the country. The landscape is picturesque rather 
 than grand ; the mountains are not lofty. Helvellyn and Skid- 
 daw, a trifle more than three thousand feet, are among the 
 hisrhest, while the lakes are not wider than our medium sized 
 rivers. It is a peculiarity of this country that the traveller has 
 everything in a nutshell ; for as soon as he leaves one charming 
 view, another quickly follows like those of a panorama. There 
 is an advantage in this arrangement if his time is limited, but 
 there is also a disadvantage, since so many different prospects 
 following in rapid succession are confusing, making it difficult 
 to retain any vivid impression of them.
 
 SCOTLAND. 13 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 A Visit to Scotland. 
 
 We stopped at Keswick only a few hours, then started for 
 Glasgow by rail, through the ancient town of Carlisle, famous 
 for its share in the " border wars," and for the imprisonment of 
 Mary Queen of Scots in a castle built by William Rufus. We 
 arrived at Glasgow very late in the evening ; but without the 
 aid of gas or electricity we could read with ease the signs on 
 the buildings, suggesting the thought that we were approaching 
 the north pole. We gave only a short time to this business 
 city ; and bidding farewell to our travelling companions, Mr. 
 and Mrs. P., whom we found very agreeable, Ave left for 
 Edinburo-h by way of Loch Lomond, the Trossachs, and 
 Sterling. There was on board the train a picnic company 
 going to the lake, composed of Scotch belonging to the labor- 
 ing classes, who were very social, but decorous and respectful. 
 They sang several pieces of sacred music, accompanied by a 
 few violins ; and when the train came in sight of Dunbarton 
 Castle, associated with the history of William Wallace, they 
 sang the well-known address of that chieftain to his followers. 
 The castle in which he was confined, after having been betrayed 
 by Monteith, is built on a rock in the Leven, five hundred and 
 sixty feet high. The following legend is connected with the 
 foundation of this stronghold : St. Patrick, a native of tliis 
 region, having been assailed by Satan or his subordinates, was 
 compelled to flee to Ireland in a boat. His enemies, exasperated 
 that their victim should escape, seized a hugh bowlder from the 
 neighboring hills, and hurled it after him, but it fell sliort of 
 the mark, and dropped at the mouth of the Leven, where it 
 remains to this day. The Vale of Leven has been rendered
 
 14 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 immortal by Smollet, the author of " Roderick Random," in 
 the ode beginning " On Leven's banks while free to rove." 
 
 Early in the morning the weather bade fair for a pleasant 
 day : but as soon as we embarked at Balloch, the wind and rain 
 
 «■' " 
 
 disturbed our quiet sail to the end of our voyage. Loch 
 Lomond, celebrated for its thirty-two islands and its historical 
 and poetical associations, has been considered the most beau- 
 tiful of all the Scotch lakes. Li its neighborhood are the ruins 
 of several old castles which belonged to ancient families promi- 
 nent in Scotch history. We passed many places and objects of 
 pecuhar interest, including a rock rising thirty feet from the 
 water, called Rob Roy's Rock, where that chieftain used to 
 lower his captives by a rope into the lake, then draw them 
 out, repeating the experiment until they agreed to pay the 
 required ransom. Indeed, the shores of Loch Lomond con- 
 stantly remind one of that redoubtable outlaw. Here is Rob 
 Roy's Prison ; farther on, Rob Roy's Cave, etc. 
 
 The scenery of the lake region of Scotland differs from that 
 of England in being more wild and grand. Leaving the 
 steamer at Inversnaid, we took the stage to Loch Katrine, a 
 distance of five miles, passing two houses of historical interest : 
 one, the residence of Rob Roy, the other, the birthplace of 
 Helen McGregor. Loch Katrine, famous in the tale of the 
 " Lady of the Lake," the most interesting of Scott's poems, is 
 the most romantic of all the lakes in this region. The captain 
 of our little steamer was perfectly familiar with the poem, and 
 repeated portions, pointing out the interesting localities, as 
 the Silver Sand, where Ellen Douglas met Fitz James ; Ellen's 
 Isle, the abode of the heroine and her outlawed father ; the old 
 oak, where she received her visitor ; the Goblin's Cave, etc. 
 
 The views on Loch Katrine are exceedingly picturesque, 
 with Ben Venue on the right, Ben An on the left, and 
 several minor elevations on both sides. Ellen's Isle, so named 
 for the heroine, in the southern extremity of the lake, and 
 covered with trees, contains a rocky cavern which appears as 
 if it might have afforded a safe hiding-place for a fugitive. 
 On the right bank of the lake is the Goblin's Cave; and
 
 SCOTLAND. 15 
 
 ein-lit hundred fuet above is the <(leii called the Pass of the 
 Cattle, through which the auimals seized during a Lowland 
 foray were driven to the Trossachs for shelter. The landing- 
 place at the Trossachs coincided with the romantic scenery of 
 this region. A rustic, winding colonnade decked with moss 
 and vines, led up from the pier to the stage waiting for its 
 passengers, when we gave our parting look at the classic spot 
 and took our seats for a ride through the pass. Our company 
 comprised a party of Americans from Philadelphia ; and 
 though it was raining, we were disposed to make the best of 
 our conditions and have a good time. 
 
 The Trossachs were not exactly what we expected, — deep, 
 narrow ravines with precipitous mountains on either side, form- 
 ing a natural wall, — but mere valleys winding between the 
 hills, sometimes narrow, and in other places wide, with an 
 occasional sheet of water, cultivated fields, and a few scattered 
 dwellings. A castle-like hotel, with its grounds and inviting 
 walks, induced us to alight for dinner and spend some time 
 rambling about the premises, to gather some of Burns' 
 " wee tippet daisies," often called gowans by the natives. The 
 mountains and valleys are covered with heather in places, 
 though this is not the time for blossoms. This shrub is of a 
 dark epidote green, contrasting harmoniously with the lighter 
 siiades of green seen in the rest of the vegetation. Highland 
 cattle with shaggy hair and Highland sheep with long wool, 
 just as Landseer has represented them, were grazing in the 
 pastures ; and to complete the picture, here were the Highland 
 dogs. In going through the Trossaclis we passed several 
 places rendered memorable by Sir Walter Scott, as the Brig of 
 Turk, where Fitz James discovered he had left his followers 
 behind ; the place where, at the whistle of Roderick Dhu, a host 
 of armed men sprang up, to the astonishment of Fitz James ; 
 the muster-field of Clan Alpine, the Fiery Cross followei-s ; and 
 the ford to which Roderick Dhu conducted the king, all places 
 of interest in Scotch history. 
 
 Our journey by stage ended at Callender, a pretty modern 
 looking town, with some fine buildings and gardens. Here
 
 16 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 we exchanged our stage for the railway train, en route for 
 Sterling, passing through many places of historical interest, 
 as is the case of almost the whole of Scotland. The old town 
 of Sterling, situated on the Forth, with its venerable castle, 
 formerly called Snowdown, frowning from its rocky eminence, 
 has been the scene of memorable events, while in the city and 
 vicinity are localities bearing names found in Scotch history, 
 poetry, and romance. From Sterling to Edinburgh, we pass 
 Bannockburn, the field of Bruce's victory, and Linlithgow, the 
 birthplace of Mary Queen of Scots and the place where the 
 Regent Murray was assassinated. It gives the foreign traveller 
 a peculiar sensation to hear these classic names announced by 
 the conductor or guard at railway stations ; it seems an almost 
 ridiculous descent from the romantic and the heroic to the dull 
 prose of ordinary life. 
 
 One of the agreeable incidents of travel is the pleasant 
 acquaintances sometimes formed. This was our good fortune 
 during the journey to Edinburgh, as well as in other places, 
 where we met a ver}^ agreeable Scotch lady with an interesting 
 family of children ; and being strangers, we found her advice 
 very serviceable. She bade her manly son, perhaps twelve 
 years of age, to secure us a carriage, which reheved us from 
 considerable embarrassment, as it was quite late in the evening, 
 and we were soon on our way to the Waverly House, on 
 Prince's Street, near Scott's Monument; and here, July 1, we 
 found a resting-place in the celebrated and picturesque capital 
 of Scotland. The city, comprising the Old and the New 
 Towns, is built upon several hills, the material of which the 
 houses are constructed being a light-colored sandstone, but 
 deepened into a dark gray from the effects of the climate. 
 The two sections of the town are separated by a deep ravine 
 spanned by bridges, while the narrow valley is appropriated to 
 public gardens tastefully laid out, affording agreeable prom- 
 enades, and through it the principal railways pass. Prince's 
 Street, in the New Town, is very fine, containing some of the 
 best buildings and the leading hotels. Here are some of the 
 most celebrated monuments, notably that of Scott, an elegant
 
 ■r. 
 
 ■*. 
 '■J 
 
 
 Ed 
 
 
 -^ 
 
 ■J 
 
 3
 
 SCOTLAND. 17 
 
 Gothic column two hundred feet in heiglit. Under the princi- 
 pal arch are the statues of Sir Walter and his dog jNIaida, in 
 light-gray Carrara marble. Five figures representing some of 
 the novelist's characters occupy niches above ; namely, Prince 
 Charles Edward, Meg Merriles, the Last Minstrel, Lady of tlie 
 Lake, and Heriot. The architect of this beautiful monument, 
 George M. Kemp, was self-taught, having been a stone- 
 mason, but he died before the work was completed. Near this 
 monument there are several statues of eminent Scotchmen, 
 including those of Wilson, Christopher North, and Allen Ram- 
 say, On Prince's Street are the Royal Institution for the 
 Encouragement of the Fine Arts ; a gallery of statues with the 
 casts in Elgin marbles ; the Scottish Antiquarian Museum ; the 
 National Gallery, of the Ionic order of architecture, contain- 
 ing paintings both ancient and modern ; and the Museum of 
 Antiquities, built after the Doric order. 
 
 From our hotel we look across the ravine to the Old Town ; 
 and the most conspicuous object is the castle, perched on its 
 high rock ; and in another direction is Carlton Hill, affording 
 excellent views of the city. This eminence is adorned with 
 several monuments, including those of Dugald Stewart, Pro- 
 fessor Playfair, and Robert Burns ; but the most conspicuous is 
 that of Lord Nelson, who has been styled the "naval divinity 
 of Great Britain." There is an unfinished National Monument 
 in imitation of the Parthenon, in honor of the fallen heroes of 
 the Peninsular War. Edinburgh honors her eminent men by 
 these memorials, an example which our own country might 
 imitate with credit. 
 
 St. Andrews Square, in the New Town, contains some fine 
 buildings and several statues. The Douglas Hotel, not remark- 
 able in appearance, is the resort of the royal family and other 
 important persons during their visits to this city. A fluted 
 column one hundred and thirty-six feet high, supporting the 
 statue of Viscount Melville, fourteen feet in height, occupies 
 the centre of the square. 
 
 A party of four persons made a visit to Roslin Castle, seven 
 miles from Edinburgh ; and after paying a fee of one shilling,
 
 18 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 we were admitted to the interior. Like many other ancient 
 buildings, it was in a state of partial decay. The castle was 
 built by William St. Clair of Roslin, Prince of Orkney, in 1446, 
 and contains the remains of the earls and countesses of Roslin. 
 The chapel is small, of the Gothic style, decorated with a profu- 
 sion of sculptured ornaments, both in the interior and on the 
 exterior. It contains the monument called the " Apprentice's 
 Pillar," connected with a tragical story like the following, 
 briefly told : An apprentice had carved a column so beautiful 
 as to excite the envy of his master ; and to remove so formi- 
 dable a lival, he assassinated his pupil whom he could not equal. 
 This barbarous act only served to perpetuate the fame of the 
 apprentice and the perfidy of his master. 
 
 We went from the chapel to the castle, a short distance off ; 
 and as we first entered the ruins, nothing but broken walls and 
 heaps of stones were to be seen ; but passing by these, our 
 guide conducted us down a flight of steps to the rear, and led 
 us through several dark, low, winding passages into a number 
 of o-loomy, prison-like rooms cut in the solid rock, with but one 
 narrow window, admitting only sufficient light to show the 
 rough stone walls. One of these rooms was the kitchen of the 
 castle, and the others were used by the retainers of the lords 
 of Roslin. The rooms of the tower had small round holes, 
 through which the besieged could send their missiles when beset 
 by foes outside. Judging from the interior arrangements, the 
 domestic life of the highest classes must have been very rude 
 and simple in those days. 
 
 Roslin Castle was built at the same time and by the same 
 nobleman as the chapel, and was a place of great strength, with 
 moat and drawbridge. It suffered during the wars with 
 England, and in 1303 it became the scene of three successive 
 victories of the Scotch over the English. 
 
 Leaving the castle, we followed the Esk, in its windings 
 between precipitous walls of sandstone, to Hawthornden, about 
 two miles distant. The path was narrow, sometimes on the 
 side of a cliff just above the river, with towering crags over 
 our heads. The Esk here is a small stream no larger than a
 
 SCOTLAXD. 19 
 
 good-sized brook, but its banks are lined with trees and shrubs, 
 and the rocks on its borders are worn into a great variety of 
 shapes, some rising like walls and towei-s, while others are 
 excavated like caverns and grottos. In places the narrow 
 path lies along dizzy heights where one would not care to meet 
 a foe. Between Roslin and Hawthornden, the scenery along 
 the Esk is the wildest and grandest w^e have yet seen in this 
 country, and reminds us of views in America. After crossing 
 the bridge over the Esk, for which we paid a shilling apiece, 
 — everything is a shilling a sight; we expected to be charged a 
 shilling for looking at the moon, — we entered the grounds of 
 Sir James Drummond, of Hawthornden House, where the 
 poet Drummond, contemporary with Ben Jonson, lived. On 
 the banks of the river was what was called Bruce's Cave, 
 which seemed like the ruins of a castle or some stronghold. 
 We passed through a dark low passage into a room where were 
 kept the sword of Bruce, a rusty weapon so heavy that it 
 would need a mighty Hercules to wield it, and the wTiting- 
 desk of John Knox, a simple, rude pine desk carved in school- 
 boy fashion, pro\'ing that if the stern reformer did use it he 
 was much like other boys. 
 
 Having seen the curiosities of the Drummond estate, with 
 its lofty precipice and caverns cut in freestone rock, which 
 tradition assigns to the Pictish monarchs, faint and weary, we 
 came to the railway station, where we found a place for 
 refreshments, a snug little house occupied by a Scotch woman 
 and her son, the gate tender. As her little parlor was already 
 occupied by guests, we were entertained in the kitchen, where 
 the domestic arrangements reminded one of descriptions given 
 by story tellers, — the tea kettle on the hob, the rows of plates 
 on the shelves of the open cupboard, the heavy wood chairs, 
 the little bed in the curtained recess, all so quaint and tidy. 
 The good wife, who had lost her husband, was seventy-six 
 yeai-s old and the mother of fifteen children, yet appeared fresh 
 and young for one of her age. Her son, the gate tender, was 
 quite an artist, though having had no training. His mother, 
 proud of her boy, took great pleasure in showing us his paiut-
 
 20 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 iiigs, which were very creditable. To complete the day's 
 sight-seeing, after returning to Edinburgh, we visited Holyrood 
 
 Palace. 
 
 It is situated at the foot of Cannongate, a street once 
 famous in the history of Edinburgh, but now occupied by the 
 poorer classes. This quadrangular pile is two hundred and 
 thirty feet in length ; and with its battlements, round towers, 
 and conical domes, it makes a grand appearance. The Abbey 
 Church or Royal Chapel is now in ruins, but these give 
 evidence of its former architectural beauty. It contains the 
 tombs of Scotland's kings, whose portraits line a hall in the 
 palace. We were shown Lord Darnley's room, and those 
 where the unfortunate Rizzio was murdered and through 
 which his body was dragged, also the private stairs up which 
 the assassins were conducted by Darnley, and what purported 
 to be blood stains on the floor. There were several portraits 
 of Mary and one of Darnley, who is represented as being tall, 
 but we could not see anything about it very captivating. The 
 queen's portraits in this palace are disappointing ; and if they 
 are faithful, she was not as beautiful as represented -by her 
 biographers. Her sad fate had, undoubtedly, much to do with 
 her charms. 
 
 In one room was a bed which had been occupied by the 
 queen, and in another, one that had been used by Charles I. 
 The royal apartments were dark and gloomy, with very low 
 doorway's and narrow stairs. Though some of the rooms were 
 highly decorated, others were without ornament or only 
 partially covered with faded tapestry. " Departed glory " is 
 written upon all these once beautiful but now faded and 
 decayed objects. It is depressing to see the elaborate carving 
 and fine ornamental decorations of palaces, chapels, and 
 churches gradually crumbling to dust. 
 
 Though the public buildings were so rich, elegant, and 
 highly decorated, yet the private dwellings of the highest 
 classes, even, were such that no respectable person of the 
 present day would think of occupying. In the Gallery of 
 Kings there are one hundred and six portraits, representing the
 
 
 JiU.NKOUlN I ASTLE, FUO.M THE GAKKEN. 
 
 Tin: CiiAMKL, Mki.uosk Aiir.K\.
 
 SCOTLAND, 21 
 
 Scottish sovereigns from earliest times, painted from fancy, 
 pictures, or old coins. 
 
 Leaving Holyrood Palace, we visited the castle, situated on 
 a high rocky mount, a large building occupying a slate rock, 
 which on one side rises very abruptly three hundred and 
 eighty-three feet. Having passed the outer barriers, we came 
 to a palisade with a ditch sj)anned by a drawbridge, and 
 defended by two gates. The castle was guarded by Highland 
 soldiers, who were going through their military exercises. 
 On the highest platform of the castle stands Mons Meg, 
 a large gun made at Mons, in Brittany, 1486. From the 
 Esplanade fine views were enjoyed. The royal apartments 
 occupied the eastern side of the fortress. The Crown Room 
 contains the Scottish Regalia, consisting of crown, sceptre, 
 sword, and other valuable treasures, such as the Golden Collar, 
 presented by Queen Elizabeth to James VI., with the George 
 and Dragon, supposed to be the most magnificent one of the 
 kind existing, and the crown of Robert Bruce. In Mary's 
 drawing-room are two portraits of the queen, one being taken 
 at the age of eighteen, when she was Dauphiness of France, the 
 most beautiful one we had seen. Arthur's Seat is a crested 
 hill, overlooking the town, but we did not attempt the difficult 
 feat of reaching it. 
 
 In walking through Edinburgh one is constantly meeting 
 with agreeable surprises. There are so many hills in and 
 around the city, so many windings, so many ascents and 
 descents, flights of stone steps which, like Jacob's ladder, 
 reach to heaven, so many narrow passage-ways (closes, as 
 they are called here) between lofty stone buildings, that 
 they seem the realization of wild dreams. Those on the 
 verge of precipices have a grand and almost threatening 
 aspect, lest they tumble down the steep acclivity. Edin- 
 burgh is built on hills, steep crags, tablelands, and in valleys. 
 The Old Town is very quaint and picturesque ; some of 
 the buildings are from seven to ten stories high, while the 
 narrow passages or streets remind one of the winding 
 paths between the walls of a fortification. Indeed, many
 
 22 PLKASAXT MEMORIES OF FOREIGX TRAVEL. 
 
 of these old Luiluings look like fortresses. The New- 
 Town is quite different, the streets being wider, the houses 
 lower and finer. Another feature of Edinburgh is the series 
 of hills risinrr on several sides, the most conspicuous being 
 Arthur's Seat, with a road passing around, giving the upper 
 part the appearance of a crown, and another called the Salis- 
 bury Crag. On the other side of the River Clyde is the harbor, 
 wath its shipping. 
 
 The Scotch express gratitude and reverence for their dis- 
 tinguished men by erecting to their memory suitable monu- 
 ments, which both adorn their cities and teach the lessons of 
 patriotism to future generations. There are many public 
 buildings in Edinburgh, including its celebrated University; 
 but perhaps no one is more interesting, on account of its 
 antiquity, than the old Iron Church, whose tower, in the form 
 of a crown, looms up very conspicuously. St. Giles is another 
 ancient church. We visited the spot designated the Heart of 
 Mid-Lothian, rendered memorable by the great novelist, but 
 now it is recognized only by a stone in the pavement, marking 
 the place where it stood. 
 
 July 4 we bade adieu to Edinburgh, and started for London 
 via Melrose. The day was fine, and the scenery we passed 
 quietly beautiful. \^q crossed the Esk and Gala Water, 
 celebrated by the poet Burns, and, at a distance on the left, 
 the Hills of Lammermoor. Melrose Abbey ! How often had 
 we seen the venerable ruins represented by the hand of art; 
 but here it stood in its romantic, declining beauty, just as we 
 had pictured it in our imagination, with its exquisite Gothic 
 window^s, its crumbling buttresses, its moss-covered walls, the 
 headstones on the grass lawn in front, and surrounded by the 
 Eildon hills, on which the Romans had an encampment half 
 a mile in circumference. The abbey was founded by David I. 
 in 1136, but was several times destroyed or partially destroyed 
 during the numerous wars of Scotland, and was as often 
 restored or rebuilt. Its remains prove that the building was a 
 fine specimen of the Gothic style of architecture. While lin- 
 gering about the ruins we met two passengers from the China,
 
 scoTLAjvn. 23 
 
 and planned an excursion to Abbotsford, about three miles dis- 
 tant on the Tweed. We could make only a hurried visit to 
 the house of the famous novelist, though the grounds presented 
 an attractive feature, with tlieir trees and agreeable walks. 
 The liouse was built by Sir Walter, as is well known, of stone 
 gathered from all parts of the country, and one block was 
 from the old Tolbooth at Edinburgh. Though the building 
 defies every style of architecture, yet its composition is pleas- 
 ing and picturesque. 
 
 Abbotsford is a museum in itself, containing some valuable 
 relics from almost every part of the globe. The very formal 
 and very polite guide went through his catechism with great 
 minuteness and fidelity, but he had the lesson so thoroughly 
 that it was difficult to follow his rapid utterances. It was Sir 
 Walter in every sentence, so that his name and title were about 
 all we could retain ; however, a few ideas were brought away. 
 The novelist's study contained a large writing-desk, a small 
 one made from the wood of the Spanish Armada, and a chair 
 made from one used by William Wallace. In the library there 
 were several chairs elegantly carved ; while the books, furniture, 
 pictures, and everything in the room were precisely as he 
 left them when he died, and the same was true of all the other 
 apartments occupied by Sir Walter, as our guide affirmed. 
 One room was appropriated to arms and armor, most of which 
 had belonged to eminent pei-sons of different periods, and 
 under a glass case were the last garments worn by the novelist, 
 while windows of stained glass bore the escutcheons of his 
 own and the royal family of Scotland. 
 
 With regret we left these classic scenes for Leeds, England, 
 a very old town, and the chief seat of the woollen manufactures.
 
 24 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 From Edinburgh to London. 
 
 Our route to London lay through the centre of England, 
 though we did not pass any places of special interest until we 
 came to Sheffield, a busy town enveloped in the smoke of a 
 thousand chimneys. During our journey we had for travelling 
 companions a very social Englishman who had been in 
 America, and came home fascinated with the country and the 
 people, and an English lady disposed to be quite communica- 
 tive. Thus far we had found the natives of Great Britain more 
 inclined to be social than we expected. They are reserved at 
 first, but after further acquaintance they seem more accessible 
 and cordial. There is much to be admired in the orderly, 
 quiet, and dignified bearing of the English. They are calm 
 and self-possessed, a trait very noticeable in all whom we 
 met. 
 
 The natural scenery of the southern part of Scotland and 
 the northern regions of England is much the same : quiet, 
 beautiful, and exceedingly fresh at this season of the year. 
 The land is under the highest state of cultivation, with not a 
 foot running to waste. Trees, shrubs, and hedgerows divide 
 the fields into plots, which diversify the landscape, though there 
 is an absence of grand views. Sometimes the prospect is varied 
 by ledges of building stone, almost the only material used in 
 construction. We had not seen a wooden house since landing 
 in Great Britain. 
 
 The towns and villages have a very ancient and weather- 
 stained appearance, which forms a striking contrast to the 
 freshness of the verdant landscape. In the western part of 
 England almost every house and stone wall is more or less
 
 FRO^f EDINBURGH TO LONDON. 25 
 
 concealed with running plants, which impart an indescribable 
 charm to rural life. The ivy is seen clinging to the walls 
 wherever it can fasten its tendrils, while mosses with soft 
 green and brown colors cover the trees and cottages. Here 
 are seen the yew, holly, hawthorn, heath, furz, and broom, 
 about which we had read, and the daisy, not the showy flower 
 so called, but the " wee, purple, tippet flower " of Burns. 
 The feathered songsters comprise the lapwing, bulfinch, sky- 
 lark, nightingale, and others. English life and English scenes 
 have been so vividly and faithfully delineated by native poets 
 and romancers that one may gain almost an accurate knowl- 
 edge of the country from their writings. 
 
 Bidding farewell to green fields, beautiful flowers, charm- 
 ing lakes, and picturesque hills and vales, we finally reached 
 the great, busy city of London, a world of itself, and 
 stopped at the hotel of the Golden Cross, situated on the 
 Strand. The first place to be visited was, of course, West- 
 minster Abbey, but we took a w^alk around Trafalgar Square 
 before entering this historical building. Westminster Abbey, 
 originally a Benedictine monastery, occupies the site of a 
 church existing in the time of Off a. King of Mercia, in the 
 eighth centur}'. A new one was erected by Edward the Con- 
 fessor, 1065, but only a very small part of his church can be 
 identified with that now existing. The oldest portions, the 
 choir and transepts, were built by Henry HI., though addi- 
 tions have been made at different times. The length of the 
 abbey is 416 feet; the transepts, 203 feet; the choir, 155 feet; 
 from the pavement to the roof, nearly 102 feet ; and the towers, 
 225 feet. In the north transept are the monuments of 
 several distinguished persons, comprising Pitt, Fox, Grattan, 
 Canning, Lord Chatham, Sir Kobert Peel, William Wilberforce, 
 and othei-s. The south transept contains the Poets' Corner, 
 where are monuments and tablets to many of England's cele- 
 brated poets and writers from Chaucer, 1400 A. D., to the 
 present time, nearly five centuries. Americans as well as 
 Englishmen should feel an interest in this hallowed spot, for 
 here are names as familiar and as highly cherished in one
 
 26 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 country as in the other — names that have enriched and 
 ennobled the common hmguage of both. 
 
 Tlie abbey has a place in English hearts from its connection 
 •with the political institutions of the country, for it is here that 
 the sovereigns from Edward the Confessor to Queen Victoria 
 have been crowned, in the centre of the choir under the tower, 
 and here also more than twenty of them lie buried. Back of 
 the high altar is the chapel of Edward the Confessor, or, as it 
 is called, the Chapel of the Kings. The centre is occupied by 
 the Shrine of Edward, originally ornamented with rich mosaic 
 work, small remnants of which still remain, and it is said with 
 slabs of porphyry brought from Rome, but which vandal hands 
 have carried off. Around this shrine are the tombs of nine 
 kings and queens, including those of Henry III., Edward I., 
 and Eleanor, his queen, Edward III. and Philippa, his queen, 
 Richard 11. and his consort, and Henry V. Here are also 
 the two coronation chairs. The oldest, one used for crown- 
 ing the monarchs of Great Britain, contains the " Stone of 
 Scone," formerly used in Ireland, and then in Scotland, upon 
 which the candidate was placed when crowned. It was 
 brought from Scotland by Edward I. It is a piece of rough, 
 gray sandstone fastened to the under side of the coronation 
 chair. The other chair, much like the first, was made for the 
 use of Mary, the wife of William I., as in the joint-coronation 
 two chairs would be needed. Six chapels surround Edward's 
 shrine. The one called St. Edmund's contains twenty monu- 
 ments of distinguished persons. Henry VII. and his queen 
 lie buried in a chapel entered by twelve steps, and ornamented 
 with various devices, comprising the crown and the roses of 
 York and Lancaster; on the right of the chapel is a monu- 
 ment of Mary Queen of Scots, whose remains were brought 
 from Peterborough Cathedral and buried here ; and on the 
 opposite side is the tomb of her rival. Queen Elizabeth. 
 Henry VII. 's Chapel was the place where the Knights of the 
 Bath, an order which ranks next to the Order of the Garter, 
 were installed ; and here are their banners and stalls, while 
 back of their seats are brass plates with the names and
 
 FROM EDINBURGH TO LONDON. 27 
 
 armorial bearings of the membere, which comprise some royal 
 names. The tomb of Henry VII. is a Gothic structure of black 
 marble decorated with gilt figures in high relief. Indeed, the 
 entire chapel is covered with a great variety of ornaments, 
 whicli would require much study and time to describe. These 
 ro3'al tombs teach the lesson that death is no respecter of 
 rank, pomp, station, or honor, and that the most powerful 
 monarchs must share the common lot. " Passing away " is 
 written upon everything earthly. 
 
 There are monuments in every part of this interesting build- 
 ing : some beautiful, others commonplace, showy, or unadorned. 
 A little of American history is found here, where there is a 
 monument to Major Andre ; but the outrage perpetrated upon 
 the figure of Washington in bas-relief, by depriving it of a 
 head three times, is shocking to Americans and disgraceful 
 to the English. The cloisters and chapter house form a part 
 of the abbey ; the latter is an octagon with groined roof rest- 
 ing, apparently, on a tall column of Purbec marble, but really 
 supported by external buttresses. It was built in 1250, by 
 Henry III. The first House of Commons met here, and 
 occupied it for that purpose three hundred years. The build- 
 ing has recently been restored, and now presents something of 
 its primitive beauty. What conflicting emotions are excited 
 by a first visit to this grand old historical church : it saddens 
 and it fascinates ; it fills the mind with admiration for the 
 magnificence and beauty of its architecture, witli awe for its 
 majestic proportions, and with sadness for the ephemeral nature 
 of human greatness. The cloisters call up the figures of the 
 Benedictine monks who paced up and down these arcades 
 during their secluded and monotonous lives. 
 
 Westminster and St. Paul's! The contrast between the two 
 buildings is very wide : the styles are entirely different, the 
 impression they make upon the visitor is different. St. Paul's 
 belongs to the present, Westminster to the past. The former 
 is grand and imposing, with its dome, its massive arches, 
 columns, and pilasters ; but it has less variety, less fascinating 
 beauty, less graceful ornamentation than the latter. The great
 
 28 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 size of St. Paul's — five hundred and fifty feet in length and 
 three hundred and seventy in height — and its beautiful and 
 well-proportioned dome render it a conspicuous and noble 
 structure. The style of architecture is Grecian. The entire 
 building, begun in 1675, was the work of one architect, 
 Sir Christopher Wren ; therefore there is a unity in design not 
 always seen in older churches. The material used is Portland 
 stone, naturally of a light color ; but the smoke of Loudon has 
 deepened the tint in places to a very dark hue, which gives it 
 a shaded appearance. The choir is very rich in wood carving ; 
 and the two organs, one on each side, are similar in ornament, 
 while the pulpit is of different kinds of marble. Compared 
 with the abbey, the interior of St. Paul's is almost without 
 ornament. The paintings in the dome represent events in the 
 life of St. Paul. The church contains a number of monuments 
 and statues of eminent Englishmen ; as John Howard, Doctor 
 Johnson, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Bishop Heber, Duke of 
 Wellington, Lords Nelson and Cornwallis, Sir John Moore, 
 Collingwood, Sir William Jones, and others. This church con- 
 tains the tomb of Benjamin West, an American artist. " The 
 Whispering Gallery," reached by a flight of two hundred 
 and sixty steps, is a peculiarity of this church. The softest 
 whisper uttered at one side of the gallery is distinctly heard 
 on the opposite side, by placing the ear against the wall. 
 
 The next important place we visited was Westminster 
 Palace, or the House of Parliament, a building which extends 
 nine hundred and forty feet along the left bank of the Thames, 
 and covers nearly eight acres of ground. It is constructed of 
 different kinds of stone and iron, in the style called Perpen- 
 dicular Gothic, and contains eleven hundred apartments. The 
 Victoria Tower is three hundred and forty feet in height, and 
 the Clock Tower is three hundred and twenty feet ; the dial of 
 the clock is thirty feet in diameter. A tower in the centre 
 rises like the spire of a church. This immense building is best 
 seen from the river or from Westminster Bridge, It is open 
 to the public on Saturdays, when tickets of admission are 
 given at the building. Ascending the royal staircase, we pass
 
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 FROM EDINBUROn TO LONDON. 29 
 
 through the Norman Porch into tlie Queen's Robiiig-room, an 
 apartment highly decorated by carving and frescos, the sub- 
 jects being scenes taken from the life of King Arthur ; and a 
 chair of state, richly ornamented, occupies one end of the room. 
 From this apartment we passed into the gallery, one hundred 
 and ten feet in length, where the public are allowed to view 
 the royal procession on the way from the Robing-room to the 
 House of Peers, where the Queen opens and prorogues Parlia- 
 ment. The gallery contains the gilt statues of some of the 
 English sovereigns and a few paintings. Passing into the 
 Prince's Chamber, we see a statue of the Queen in marble, with 
 that of Justice on one side, and Clemency on the other, while 
 the walls are decorated with bas-reliefs and portraits of the 
 Tudor family. From the Prince's Chamber we enter the 
 House of Lords, a splendid room, with the throne dazzling in 
 gold and rich colors at one end, and the seat of the Lord 
 Chancellor, called " the wool sack," looking very much like a 
 bed with only a cushion on it, not a very comfortable or digni- 
 fied position. At the end of the room opposite the throne is 
 the Bar, and on both sides of the chamber are the seats of the 
 members, arranged in tiers one above another, while everything 
 about the room is rich and gorgeous ; the same is true of the 
 Peers' Lobby. After visiting the Peers' Library, Robing-room, 
 and Corridor, we came to Central Hall, a room sixty feet in 
 diameter, with four doors, highly ornamented. 
 
 There is a strikinsf contrast between the House of Lords and 
 the House of Commons. The latter has no gilding, though the 
 woodwork is richly carved. It is seventy-five by forty-five feet, 
 and forty-one feet in height. The Speaker's chair is opposite 
 the Bar, near which is the official position of the sergeant-at- 
 arms. The ministerial seats for those who vote " Aye " on 
 any motion put by the Chair are on the right of the Speaker 
 in front, while the leaders of the Opposition are on the left. 
 Behind the Bar are places occupied by the peers who may be 
 present at the debates. The seats of the members form a 
 double tier along each side of the House, and at the end oppo- 
 site the Speaker is the gallery for the Diplomatic Corps, while
 
 30 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 the reporters occupy a gallery above tlie Speaker's chair. As 
 an act of courtesy, though against parliamentary rules, a place 
 has been assigned behind a screen for the accommodation of 
 ladies who may wish to li><ten to the debates. The lobbies are 
 arranged along the sides of the House ; while refreshment rooms, 
 smoking-rooms, committee rooms, and some others are con- 
 nected with it for the convenience of the members. 
 
 St. Stephen's Hall occupies the site of St. Stephen's Chapel, 
 belonging to the old Westminster Palace, and was used for the 
 meeting of Parliament from the time of Henry IV., 1400 A. D., 
 until it was burned, in 1834. Westminster Hall, now included 
 in the new House of Parliament, forms a part of English history. 
 It was first built by William Rufus, about 1097, and rebuilt in 
 its present form about a century later by Richard II. For 
 nearly seven hundred years the great Law Courts of England 
 hrive been established here. Within its walls Charles I. and Sir 
 Thomas More were condemned to death, and here the famous 
 trial of Warren Hastings took place. The last great state 
 occasion celebrated in Westminster Hall was the coronation 
 feast of George IV. The present House of Parliament was 
 begun in 1840 and finished in 1857, though occupied some time 
 before its completion. It is a singular fact that, though Great 
 Britain is a wealthy and powerful nation, she never had what 
 could properly be called a capitol until the reign of the present 
 sovereign ; the different buildings used for the purpose were 
 not originally designed for a national capitol. 
 
 Sunday, July 8, we attended service at Westminster Abbey, 
 and heard a Boston clergyman, or as much of his sermon as 
 possible. Preaching in the abbey seemed like addressing an 
 audience in a forest. In the afternoon we went to St. Paul's, 
 where the congregation was more concentrated, and the words 
 of the speaker were not lost among the mazes of Gothic archi- 
 tecture. The next day we devoted a part of the time to the 
 Zoological Gardens, in Regents Park, which comprise, it is 
 said, the largest and most complete collection of living animals 
 in the world, including, at the time of our visit, more than five 
 hundred quadrupeds, one thousand birds, and one hundred
 
 FROM EDINBURGH TO LONDON. 31 
 
 re[)tiles. Many of the species have for the first time been 
 seen alive in this collection. The viceroy of Egypt presented 
 it with a pair of hippopotomi, the first brought into the king- 
 dom ; the collection of living snakes is tlie largest in Europe. 
 
 The Gardens belong to the Zoological Society of London, 
 instituted in 1826, by Sir H. Davy and Sir Stamford Rallies, for 
 the advancement of science. 
 
 In the afternoon we paid our first visit to the National 
 Gallery, Trafalgar Square, founded in 1824, and now compris- 
 ing nearly nine hundred pictures by native artists, early Italian 
 and later Italian schools, Spanish, French, German, Flemish, 
 and Dutch masters. Turner's pictures occupying several 
 rooms. Since Ruskin has bestowed so high commendation 
 upon this artist, we gave considerable attention to his produc- 
 tions, but confess we were unable to see all the beauties he 
 ascribes to them. They are conspicuous for their warmth of 
 color, but they have a sort of hazy app-arance which renders 
 objects somewhat indistinct. One seems to be looking at them 
 through a thin mist, as sometimes seen in a New England 
 summer evening. The artist closely imitates Claude in some of 
 his paintings. In one room a Claude and a Turner hang side 
 by side, and it is difficult to see any difference in style between 
 them. Turner is said to have had three distinct periods as an 
 artist: first, as a water colorist, when his paintings were con- 
 spicuous for finish and subdued colors ; second, as an oil 
 painter, when he is said to resemble Wilson; third, from 1802 
 to 1830, when his pictures are conspicuous for brilliancy of 
 coloring and masterly execution. The majority of his works 
 belong to the latter period, including two of his finest paint- 
 ings, Childe Harold and The Fighting T(im<jraire. 
 
 Turner's pictures are numerous and represent varied scenes, 
 a large number being classical. This artist was a native of 
 London, born in 1775, and died in 1851. He was buried in the 
 crypt of St. Paul's by the side of Sir Joshua Reynolds. 
 
 The National Gallery contains Landseer's paintings, his 
 most striking being those of animals. One of his pictures 
 represents the Duke of Wellington and a lady, afterwards the
 
 32 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 Duchess of Wellington, both on horseback. C. R. Leslie, an 
 American by birth, has some paintings in this gallery ; while 
 West, also an American and president of the Royal Academy, 
 exhibited two hundred and forty-nine of his paintings in the 
 course of fifty years, but only a few of his works are in the 
 National Gallery. Among other noted artists represented in 
 this collection are Sir David Wilkie, Sir Joshua Reynolds, 
 Mulready, Copley (a native of Boston, Mass.), Gilbert Stuart 
 (a native of the United States), and James and Edward Ward. 
 We next paid a visit to the Kensington Museum, established 
 in 1852 by the late Prince Consort. It was intended for art 
 and manufactures, and has an extensive and varied collection 
 of paintings, sculpture, jewels, enamels, gems, carving, tapes- 
 tries, etc. The exhibits embrace ancient, mediseval, and mod. 
 ern works of more than twenty thousand objects, acquired by 
 purchase, gifts, and bequests. Tlte Architectural Court con- 
 tains original monuments or casts of many famous works of 
 early times, while one room is appropriated to the mosaic por- 
 traits of distinguished artists. The Prince Consort Gallery 
 contains some of the most costly specimens, while those of the 
 Loan Collections are very extensive. The celebrated Raphael 
 Cartoons, formerly at Hampton Court, are now in this museum. 
 They were drawn with chalk on paper and colored in distem- 
 per, and the originals are now in the Vatican Museum. Each 
 cartoon is twelve feet in height, and represents scenes from 
 scripture ; they were designed for tapestry for Leo X., 1513. 
 Near the Kensington Museum is the Albert Memorial, a very 
 showy monument with a profusion of gilt and colors, which, 
 to our thinking, is in bad taste ; but it is the most gorgeous and 
 expensive in England. It seems to us that an elegant struct- 
 ure in white marble would have been more appropriate to the 
 character of the lamented prince. 
 
 In this vicinity may be seen, from four in the afternoon until 
 six, the stylish equipages of the nobility and aristocracy, as they 
 take the fashionable drive to Hyde Park. A continuous line 
 of splendid teams with liveried servants lends enchantment to 
 the scene ; and if one is posted in heraldry, he could tell to
 
 FROM EDINBURGH TO LONDON. 83 
 
 what distingui.slied family some of them belonged, l)y their coats 
 of arms. The line parks of London constitute one of the most 
 pleiusing and important features of this great metropolis, and 
 contribute not only to the pleasure of tlie inhabitants, but also 
 to their health. 
 
 Of all the London collections, the British Museum is the 
 most interesting and comprehensive. It was established in 
 1753 b}' act of Parliament, in what was known as the Montagu 
 House, but additions have since been made until the building 
 covers a very large space. It ranks among the first in Europe, 
 of its kind, for the number and variety of its collections. The 
 Department of Antiquities comprises Anglo-Roman, Greco- 
 Koman, Lycian, Assyrian, Egyptian, and some varieties of 
 architecture and sculpture. Marbles from the city of lanthus, 
 colonized by the Greeks, were discovered by Sir Charles Fellows, 
 and removed to England 1842-46. They comprise reliefs from 
 the Har[)y Tomb, which stood on the Acropolis, dating, probably, 
 from 500 B. C. Ten seated figures, together with a lion and a 
 sphinx, were brought from the Sacred Way, leading to the 
 Temple of Apollo, at Branchidae, and some specimens of the 
 earliest Greek sculpture from 580 to 520 B. C. One room of the 
 museum contains the relics of the Mausoleum at Halicanassus, 
 erected to Mausolns, Prince of Caria, by his queen, Artemisia, 
 352 B. C. The tomb, considered one of the wonders of the 
 world, was one hundred and forty feet high, and bore on the 
 top a chariot group in white marble, while numerous statues of 
 Parian adorned the monument. The Elgin Marbles, so called 
 from Lord Elgin, seen in the British Museum, were taken from 
 the Parthenon, at Athens, built 440 B. C, as a temple to 
 Minerva, which contained the statue of the goddess, of gold and 
 ivory, made by Phidias. Here are the Phigalian Marbles, brought 
 from the Tem[)le of Apollo, found near the ancient city of 
 Phigalia, in Arcadia. Much older than any Greek marbles are 
 the Assyrian remains, collected mostly by Mr. Layard, 1847-50, 
 which comprise specimens from Nimroud, probiibly dating from 
 880 to 630 B. C, besides those from other localities, notably 
 one from the palace of Sennacherib, in gypsum, 700 B. C, as
 
 34 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 shown by the inscriptions, and othei-s in limestone, of a later 
 date. The illustrations consist of battle scenes in the history 
 of the warlike Assyrians. The Nimroud Collection, obtained 
 from the great mound at this place, is really history written in 
 stone. A seated figure of Shalmaneser in black basalt was dis- 
 covered fifty miles from Nimroud, at a place on the Tigris. 
 
 The Egyptian antiquities of the Museum cover a period of 
 nearly three thousand years. The earliest monuments were 
 found at Memphis ; others were from Abydos, but the largest 
 number of specimens was from the city of Thebes. Most of 
 the relics are inscribed with hieroglyphics, and illustrate sub- 
 jects connected with the religious, civil, and domestic life of 
 the Egyptians; some of these show an advanced state of civil- 
 ization. The Room of Gems contains a valuable collection of 
 engraved precious stones, mostly intaglios, but impressions in 
 plaster have been taken, which render the beautiful work very 
 conspicuous. A fine cameo with the head of the Emperor 
 Augustus is considered the largest of the kind in existence. 
 King, in his work on Gems, describes some of these beautiful 
 specimens. The famous Portland Vase, found near Rome, 
 constitutes one of the rare treasures of the collection. It was 
 once broken into a hundred pieces by a madman, but the frag- 
 ments were carefully collected and cemented together. The 
 ground is deep blue and the figures opaque white, representing 
 classical scenes. Parts of an ancient jar of alabaster, found 
 on the site of the Mausoleum, is inscribed with the name of 
 " Xerxes the Great King," in four different languages. 
 
 The Geological Department comprises a very extensive col- 
 lection of minerals and rocks, with numerous and varied fossil 
 remains, while the birds and marine shells afford interesting 
 studies for the naturalist. It is not possible even to glance at 
 all the rich treasures of the Museum in one visit; it must be 
 seen many times to get a tolerable idea of their character. 
 Being free to the public, it becomes a most important school of 
 object teaching to all classes ; and the same is true of some 
 other institutions ; as the Zoological Gardens, the National Gal- 
 lery, etc.
 
 FROM EDINBURGH TO LONDOX. 35 
 
 July 12 we visited the Crystal Palace, an immense struct- 
 ure of glass, containing a great variety of articles for perma- 
 nent exhibition. The apartments are fitted up in the styles of 
 architecture employed by different nations at various periods. 
 The most elaborate decoration was seen in the Saracenic ; there 
 was not a square inch tlmt had not its beautiful tracery, giv- 
 ing it the appearance of very fine needlework. The building 
 contains some good paintings. The grounds about the palace 
 are laid out in parterres of flowers scattered over the lawns, 
 diversified with trees and artificial basins of water. 
 
 The opening of the College for the Blind, near the Crystal 
 Palace, was an interesting occasion. This institution was 
 founded by an American who was himself blind, about five 
 years before our visit, and has been attended by highly gratif}'- 
 ing results. There are now between sixty and seventy pupils, 
 including both sexes of different ages. A concert was given 
 while we were there by the older pupils, at Avhich some dis- 
 tinguished visitors were present, including the Princess Louise 
 and her husband, the Marquis of Lome, the Duke of West- 
 minster, and several other notable persons. The princess 
 opened the college. The intelligence and quickness of 
 apprehension shown by the pupils were remarkable, and no 
 one who witnessed the exercises could fail to see the blessings 
 of such an institution. 
 
 The Bank of England, founded in 1694, is one of the famous 
 public institutions of London. It employs nine hundred per- 
 sons, whose aggregate salaries amount to two hundred and ten 
 thousand pounds a year. Near the Bank is the lloyal Ex- 
 change, a noble looking building bearing the inscription " The 
 earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof," suggested by the 
 late Prince Consort. In the rear of the Exchange is the statue 
 of George Peabod}-, the American philanthropist, who died in 
 Loudon, 1809. A friend gave us tickets to a recitation in the 
 Mansion House, the residence of the lord mayor during his 
 term of office, which is not generally open to the public. The 
 reading, which was from " The Tempest," was given in what is 
 called the " Egyptian Room," though there was nothing Egyj[>
 
 36 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 tian about it. To reach the room, we passed through a long 
 hall with statues, armorial bearings, chairs richly decorated, and 
 various other objects of interest. The lord mayor gives a ball 
 and a banquet, in this hall, to three or four hundred 
 persons on Easter IVIonday. This official is an important per- 
 sonage, and has the precedence in the city of all the royal 
 family ; and when the sovereign dies, he occupies a seat in the 
 Privy Council, and is the first one to sign the documents. 
 His salary is eight thousand pounds per annum, while his 
 expenses generally exceed that sum. His instalment, No- 
 vember 9, is attended by a great public show, and a dinner 
 in the Guildhall. 
 
 Temple Bar, now removed, was another historical place. 
 It was built as a gateway across the road separating Fleet 
 Street from the Strand, and was where the heads of persons 
 executed for criminal and political offences were formerly 
 exposed. There is or was a custom of closing this gate on 
 occasions of the entrance of the sovereign into the city, when a 
 herald sounds a trumpet, another official knocks at the gate, 
 and a parley ensues. The gate is then opened, and the lord 
 mayor passes a sword to the king or queen, who graciously 
 returns it to him. 
 
 Covent Garden Market is an interesting place on Saturday 
 morning on account of the fine display of fruits and flowers, 
 apparently from all parts of the kingdom. It is enteitaining 
 to see how a great city is fed ; and judging from this extensive 
 market, it is fair to conclude that the people of London are 
 good livers, at least, those who have the means to gratify their 
 appetites. 
 
 Sunday, July 15, we went to the Tabernacle and heard 
 Mr. Spurgeon, the celebrated preacher. There was nothing 
 remarkable about his appearance ; indeed, he did not at first 
 impress us as being superior to ordinary preachers. He was 
 plain, earnest, and evidently sincere, without any attempts at 
 oratorical display, yet he has a wonderful power to draw a 
 laro-e audience. The Tabernacle can seat four thousand four 
 hundred persons, yet it was full. The building is peculiar,
 
 FROM EDINBURGH TO LONDON. 37 
 
 without urcliitectuiil beauty, symmetry, or any otlier cliaracter- 
 istic of a fine edifice. It is elliptical in form, with two rows of 
 galleries passing entirely around it, with the pulpit at one side, 
 elevated to the level of the lower gallery, so that the speaker 
 is midway between the floor and tlie upper one. There was 
 not a musical instrument in the church, the singing being per- 
 formed by the whole congregation, suggesting the company of 
 celestial choristers, whose harmonious voices sounded like 
 "many waters." The interior seemed like an amphitheatre, 
 with its sea of heads rising from the base and reaching to the 
 top of the wall under the dome. 
 
 The Royal Academy, instituted in 1768, had recently been 
 removed from Trafalgar Square to Burlington House, Picca- 
 dilly. Its object is to afford a school of design and an annual 
 exhibition of the works of living artists, as well as the old 
 masters. The members are under the supervision of the Queen, 
 who alone confirms all appointments ; they comprise forty-two 
 academicians. The exhibitions occur twice a year : in May for 
 modern works, and in winter for those of the old masters, when 
 the art treasures of private individuals are loaned to the 
 Academy. The works of sculptors are included among the 
 exhibits. Sir Joshua Reynolds and Benjamin West have both 
 held the office of president ; Sir Francis Grant now occupies 
 that position. At the time we visited the Academy, it con- 
 tained one thousand five hundred and thirty-nine specimens, 
 comprising oil paintings, water colors, architectural drawings, 
 etchings, miniatures, and sculptures, some by artists well known 
 in America. 
 
 The Palace of Hampton Court, built by Cardinal Wolsey, 
 stands on the north bank of the Thames several miles from 
 Charing Cross. It was considered veiy magnificent, and ex- 
 cited the envy of Henry VIII. ; therefore the politic cardinal 
 presented it to his Majesty, and received in return the Manor 
 House. While Wolsey occupied the palace, he lived in greater 
 opulence than any })otentate, keeping eight hundred retainers 
 in his houseliold, and giving sumptuous entertainments, not- 
 ably to the French embassadors sent to confirm the peace
 
 38 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 agreed to by Henry VIII., Francis I., and Charles V. Hamp- 
 ton Court Palace is memorable for its historical events, having 
 been the birthplace of Edward VI., and where Queen Elizabeth 
 held festivals, and where the queen of James I. died ; and it 
 was here Charles I. iiad collected valuable paintings, which 
 were scattered during the Protectorate, when it was occupied 
 by Cromwell. It became the favorite residence of William III., 
 who improved it and laid out the gardens and parks as they 
 are now seen. George II. and Queen Caroline were the last 
 royal persons who resided at Hampton Court. The palace 
 consists of three principal quadrangles. 
 
 We entered under a lofty arcade, crossed a court, and passed 
 through a colonnade to the King's Grand Staircase, leading to 
 the state apartments. Paintings representing scenes from 
 Greek mythology adorn the staircase, and in the Guard Cham- 
 ber the walls are covered with designs formed of different 
 kinds of armor, such as muskets, halberds, pistols, swords, 
 daggers, and other weapons, sufficient to arm one thou- 
 sand men. These warlike ornaments are interspersed with 
 portraits and other paintings. The State Rooms comprise 
 the presence chamber, audience chamber, dancing-hall, bed- 
 room, dressing-room, and waiting-room, with their walls 
 covered by the paintings of the old masters ; the Queen's 
 rooms and those of the Prince of Wales are similarly deco- 
 rated. There are nine hundred and thirty-two paintings dis- 
 tributed throughout the different parts of the building. A 
 Gothic hall, one hundred and six feet in length and sixty 
 feet in height, is rich in armorial devices and stained-glass 
 windows, while the walls are hung with Arras tapestry, illus- 
 trating the history of Abraham. The walls of the Great Hall, 
 called the Withdrawing Room, are also hung with tapestry, 
 but so faded that it is difficult to decipher the designs. 
 The park and gardens are three miles in extent, and afford 
 charming places of resort for rest, walking, or riding. What 
 is called the " Wilderness " consists of a dense thicket of 
 trees, and the " Maze " is a labyrinth of shrubs arranged in 
 the form of certain puzzles ; so that one going into it must
 
 FRO^r EDI Mi man to London: 39 
 
 keep winding round to find the clue in order to get out, wliich 
 is not easily done. The Home Park is agi-eeal^ly varied by 
 beds of flowers, clusters of trees, avenues, fountains, and grass- 
 plots, with artificial streams of water on which ducks swim 
 and lilies bloom. 
 
 Sei)arated l)y a fence, are extensive grassy plains, with 
 avenues of noble trees stretching away in the distance, where 
 domestic animals are feeding. The private garden contains 
 flowers and fruits, including a remarkable grapevine, planted 
 in 1768, and so large that it requires a house seventy-two feet 
 long and thirty feet wide for its shelter. Tlie vine is one 
 Inindred and ten feet in length, and sometimes bears more 
 tlian two thousand bunches of grapes. 
 
 Sloane's Museum contains antique specimens, mostly of small 
 size; and though the rooms are very narrow, the articles are 
 so well arranged that they are easily examined. They com- 
 prise architectural remains from different countries, and some 
 paintings, notably The Kake's Progress, by Hogarth. Another 
 object worthy of attention was an Egyptian sarcopliagus, 
 found by Belzoni, consisting of a single jjiece of alabaster or 
 aragonite more than nine feet hi length. A lighted lamp 
 placed inside shines througli slabs two and one-half inches in 
 thickness, thus illustrating their great translucency. The 
 original copy of the Gerusalemme Liberata, in the handwrit- 
 ing of Tasso, is an object of interest to the admirers of that 
 poet. The collection was made by Sir John Sloane, an 
 eccentric man, who bequeathed all his property and his son to 
 his country, believing the government would provide for him. 
 The Museum is opposite Lincoln's Inn Fields, a small private 
 park or garden near the famous Inn's Court, which is sur- 
 rounded by old, respectable looking buildings, occupied by the 
 legal profession. 
 
 London Tower! What strange, sad associations are con- 
 nected with this memorable structure ! It was very difiicult to 
 get any vivid impression of the place on a first visit, when 
 hurried through the different apartments by a guide, whose 
 rapid descriptions led us to say to ourselves, "Woe unto you,
 
 40 PLEAS A XT MEMORIES OF FOREIGX TRAVEL. 
 
 ye blind guides I" A place so identified with the past and the 
 theatre of so many tragic scenes should be visited leisurely to 
 afford time for reflection. Westminster Abbey and London 
 Tower are places where one wishes to be left to his own 
 thoughts. Explanations, conversation, and even the presence 
 of company distract the mind and disturb the feelings, like 
 merriment at religious worship or a funeral. Our previous 
 ideas of the Tower were quite different from the reality. 
 Instead of one tower, there are nearly twenty in all, of 
 different sizes, occupying a quadrangle surrounded by a moat 
 several feet wide ; the area within the walls is little more than 
 twelve acres. The tower keep, or donjon, called the White 
 Tower, in the centre of the triangle, was built by William the 
 Conqueror; and near it is the Horse Armory, with figures of 
 men, some on horses, others on foot, clad in the armor of their 
 times, from Henry VH., 1422, to James H., 1685. Besides 
 these mailed warriors, a large number of ancient warlike 
 weapons are seen. 
 
 Queen Elizabeth's Armory, in the White Tower, contains 
 various instruments of torture for heretics, some of them being 
 taken from the wreck of the Spanish Armada ; but the objects 
 of the most tragical interest were the heading block, mask, and 
 axe. Those now in the Tower were employed in the execution 
 of persons engaged in the rebellion of 1745. An equestrian 
 figure of Queen Elizabeth represents her, in royal robes, going 
 to St. Paul's, to return thanks for the deliverance of England 
 from the Spanish invasion. We visited the room or cell, ten 
 feet by eight, in a wall without a window, where Sir Walter 
 Raleigh was imprisoned for many years and where he wrote his 
 history of the woild. We stood by the stairs ascended by so 
 many unfortunates with a tragical end — kings, queens, princes, 
 nobles, the innocent and the guilty. Within the area is 
 a stone with an inscription signifying that was the spot where 
 Anne Boleyn was beheaded ; and St. Peter's Chapel, within the 
 walls, is the burial-place of most of those who perished by the 
 axe. The Wakefield Tower contains the Crown Jewels, a 
 collection of crowns and other symbols of royalty, adorned with
 

 
 FliOM EDINIiUItGII TO LONDON. 41 
 
 the most beautiful and costly gems. Victoria's crown is' the 
 richest in the collection, and comprises 5 rubies, 17 sapphires, 
 11 emeralds, 277 pearls, and 2783 diamonds. The guides are 
 selected as guardians of the Tower from veterans who have 
 distinguished themselves in their country's service. Our guide 
 through the Wakefield Tower was a Yeoman of the Guard, 
 dressed in the uniform of that body, instituted by Henry VII. 
 
 The Waxworks of Madam Tussaud are remarkable; they are 
 ingenious imitations or representations of persons, life size, and 
 ari-anged in groups or singly in several different rooms. They 
 include the present royal family — the queen, princes, and prin- 
 cesses with their consorts — and many prominent individuals 
 of present and past ages, dressed in rich costumes in the styles 
 of their times. 
 
 The Museum of Practical Geology, on Jermyn Street, is val- 
 uable for one interested in science, as here are collected 
 specimens of the mineral products of Great Britain, comprising 
 marbles of many varieties, granites, and many other rocks. 
 This collection, considered as a branch of the one in the British 
 ]\Iuseum, forms one of the largest and best of its kind in 
 Europe, if not in the world, and affords great facilities for the 
 study of minerals. Nearly all the museums of art and science 
 in London are either free to the public, or the terms of admis- 
 sion are so low as to exclude no one anxious to profit by them. 
 The government places before the people the means of object 
 teaching unsurpassed by those of any other country, but 
 elementary instruction is essential to interest the masses in the 
 study of nature's wonders. If the United States, Avith her 
 graded schools, could supplement them by collections like those 
 of Great Britain, we should have a most admirable system of 
 puljlic education. 
 
 July 20 we took a sail on the Thames to Kew Gardens, a 
 few miles from the great crowded city. These botanical 
 gardens contain two hundred and forty acres, appropriated to 
 the culture of trees and flowers, tropical and native, in the 
 grounds and in glass houses. The building for palms and 
 other foreign trees is 362 feet in length, 100 in width, and 64
 
 42 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 in lieight ; and passing through it one seems to be in a tropical 
 region, for here are growing cocoanuts, bananas, coffee, ginger, 
 nutmeg, and clove trees, and the cycadese and upas of Java. 
 The fern-houses contain six hundred species of ferns. The 
 Victoria Lily, with its immense leaves, and the cinchora, yield- 
 ing quinine, are rare specimens of the vegetable kingdom. In 
 one of the buildings is seen an extensive collection of different 
 kinds of wood brought from the various colonies of Great 
 Britain, and highly polished. The arrangement of these 
 delightful gardens is Largely due, it is said, to Sir William 
 Hooker. 
 
 The Guildhall, where public meetings and elections are 
 held, was built in 1411, during the reign of Henry VI., but 
 only a small portion of the old structure remains. The great 
 wall is one hundred and fifty-three feet long. It is here that 
 the new lord mayor, as before mentioned, gives a public 
 dinner, attended with stately ceremonies, when her Majesty's 
 ministers and the law officers of the Crown are guests. The 
 bill of fare comprises nearly fifty courses. At one end of the 
 hall is a dais called the " HustingvS," from an old count of that 
 name. The term "hustings " is also applied to the places where 
 citizens vote. There are several statues in the hall, com- 
 prising those of the Pitts, father and son, Nelson, Wellington, 
 and Lord Mayor Beckford, father of the author of " Vathek"; 
 but the most conspicuous statues are those named Gog and 
 Magog and sometimes by other terms. What these grotesque 
 figures represent or what business they have here, no one knows. 
 Contiguous to the Guildhall is the City Free Library, with 
 forty thousand volumes and several different reading-rooms. 
 It was built in 1872, and has a museum containing relics of 
 Roman art found in and about London, left by the Romans. 
 They are more extensive than was supposed, until recent 
 discoveries. 
 
 In a second visit to St. Paul's we saw the crj^pt, containing 
 the tombs of some of England's distinguished men. The sar- 
 cophagus of Wellington is made of porphyry, resting on a 
 granite base. The crypt contains a chariot made of the guns
 
 FROM EDINBURGH TO LONDON. 43 
 
 captured by the duke in his wars, on wliich tlie hero, after liis 
 death, was conveyed from Chelsea Hospital to St. Paul's for 
 interment, and some drapery used at his funeial liangs on the 
 walls of the apartment. Less ostentatious tombs hold the 
 remains of several distinguished artists ; as Wren, Reynolds, 
 West, Turner, and others. The great bell of St. Paul's never 
 rings except at the death and funeral of a member of the royal 
 family, a bishop of London, a dean of St. Paul's, or the lord 
 mayor during his term of otiice. There was a public proces- 
 sion to this church in 1814, on the occasion of peace, and at 
 the funeral of the Duke of Wellington, in 1852, and on the 
 recovery of the Prince of Wales from a serious illness, when 
 the Queen attended St. Paul's in state. 
 
 From St. Paul's to St. James' Park would be a good dis- 
 tance for any other city than London. The park has nothing 
 specially attractive. The most notable object, perhaps, is the 
 large artificial pond ; being in or near the heart of the town, 
 it is a convenient place of rendezvous for the poorer classes. 
 Buckingham Palace, the residence of the royal family when in 
 London, occupies a site on one side of the park. The palace is 
 comparatively new, having been built in the reigns of George 
 IV. and William IV., though it was not occupied by the royal 
 family until the reign of Queen Victoria. It is said to con- 
 tain valuable paintings, but it is not easily accessible to visitoi-s. 
 St. James' Palace, opposite the park, is a very ordinary, irreg- 
 ular structure, formerly the town residence of the English 
 sovereigns from William III. to the present ruler. Charles I. 
 spent his last night here before his execution, and walked 
 through the park to his scaffold before Whitehall, the palace 
 of the English rulers from Henry VIII. to William III. 
 
 In the Chapel Royal of St. James, the Queen and all the 
 members of her family, to this date, have been married. The 
 palace is guarded by the Brigade of Household Guards, who 
 are changed every forenoon at a quarter before eleven. 
 
 Next to St. James' Palace is the JNIarlborouo-h House, built 
 by the great duke whose name it bears, and afterwards bought 
 by the Crown for the Princess Charlotte and Prince Leopold,
 
 44 PLEASANT MEMOBIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 though the princess did not live to occupy it. Clarence House, 
 the residence of the Duke and Duchess of Edinburgh, joins 
 St. James' Palace ; and near Kensington Gardens is Kensing- 
 ton Palace, the birthplace of Victoria. 
 
 July 22 being the Sabbath, we attended church at Holborn 
 Viaduct, and heard the Rev. Dr. Parker, who always attracts a 
 laro-e conp-reeation : and in the afternoon we went to the 
 Temple Church, near Temple Bar, built by the Knights- 
 Templars in 1185. This quaint building, interesting from its 
 associations, is partly circular, according to the style of the 
 Templars' churches. The interior is very beautiful, with its 
 clustered columns of polished marble, stained-glass windows, 
 and its frescoed, arched ceiling, while its tombs and effigies of 
 armed Templars associate it with the past. A monument of 
 white marble, erected to Selden, stands at the right of the 
 altar ; but the recumbent figures of the Knights, in their war- 
 like shrouds, constitute the most impressive objects. The choir 
 in the centre of the church was reserved for the Benchers and 
 students during service, while the "Round" was the place 
 where lawyers received their clients. 
 
 The famous Inns of Court comprise the Inner Temple, 
 Middle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's Inn. The first two 
 are connected with the Temple Church ; and near are the 
 Temple Gardens, famous for the red and white roses, badges of 
 York and Lancaster. Adjoining the church are the Cloisters, 
 a place used for students' walks. The government of the 
 Inns of Court is invested in Benchers, the most distinguished 
 members of the English Bar, comprising three thousand and 
 eighty baiTisters and twenty-eight sergeants-at-law. 
 
 The next day we made a pilgrimage to Windsor Castle, the 
 favorite residence of the Queen, which is situated on the 
 Thames a little more than twenty miles from London, over- 
 looking an extensive region dotted with green fields, trees, and 
 villages. The castle or palace, for it is both, covers a large 
 tract of ground, and is in the form of a quadrangle, with 
 towers, walls, ramparts, and other means of fortification. The 
 present building was begun by William the Conqueror, though
 
 Fno}f EnixnuRdn to Loxnoy. 45 
 
 tlio site was previously occujjied by the Saxon kings for a 
 palace ; therefore it has been llie dwelling-place of English 
 sovereigns for more than nine centuries. The Round Tower 
 or Keep was the prison of James I. of Scotland, and in another 
 tower King John of France, taken prisoner by the Black 
 Prince, was con lined. The Cha[)el of St. George, where the 
 Knights of the Garter were installed, is very rich in beautiful 
 Gothic work. Henry VIII., George III., Charles I., and some 
 othei-s of the royal family were buried in this chapel. 
 
 Some of the state apartments of Windsor Castle are quite 
 plain, especially those of the earlier sovereigns ; those occupied 
 by later monarchs are more elegant in finish and decorations. 
 The paintings comprise the portraits of royal persons and 
 some landscapes, and the walls are covered with tapestry. The 
 Guard Room contains a silver shield ornamented with gold, 
 presented to Henry VIII. by Francis I, on the Field of 
 the Cloth of Gold. The Royal Stables were plain but sub- 
 stantial, though the Queen had taken many of the horses to 
 Osborn. The Great Park, open to the public, contains about 
 four thousands acres, affording beautiful and diversified 
 scenery. 
 
 During the next two days we repeated our visit to Kensing- 
 ton JVIuseum, Hyde Park, Gray's Inn Court, Soho Square, the 
 Crystal Palace, and some other places of interest, and on the 
 27th took a sail on the Thames for Greenwich, where there is 
 a Hospital for Seamen, occupying the site of the old palace 
 which was the birthplace of Henry VIII. and his daughtei-s, 
 Mary and Elizabeth. Several buildings are appropriated to the 
 use of the hospital, where are seen portraits, busts, and statues 
 of England's naval commanders. Connected with the hospital 
 is the Royal Naval School. The ancient royal park, of one 
 hundred and seventy-four acres, contains the famous Green- 
 wich Observatory, located on a hill which commands a fine 
 view of London. The Ship Hotel, near the boat landing, 
 has been distinguished, from time immemorial, for its dinners 
 of the fish called " whitebait." From Greenwich we went to 
 Dulwich, a beautiful rural town, the seat of a college for actoi-s,
 
 46 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 established by James I. in 1619, which contains a gallery of 
 paintings by the old masters. The new college, built 1866-70, 
 is capable of receiving seven hundred students at once. 
 
 Our next visit was to Downing Street, well known in diplo- 
 matic circles ; and under the direction of a guide, we entered 
 the government building where the foreign secretary transacts 
 his business. This edifice is very large, in the form of a quad- 
 rangle, and surrounded by a good-sized court. The staircase 
 leading to the apartments where state balls and parties are held 
 is an example of architectural work, made of different colored 
 marbles. The floor is mosaic and the ceiling is frescoed. The 
 ball, reception, and dining-rooms are all elegantly decorated, 
 and the furniture of the first is scarlet and gold. The English 
 government is liberal in the magnificence of its public 
 buildings. 
 
 On the last Sabbath of our present visit to London, we 
 attended services at the Abbey, conducted by the eloquent and 
 popular Dean Stanley; but the crowd of hearers rendered 
 it impossible to get near the speaker, so that we heard only 
 a part of his discourse. The next day we left London for Paris, 
 and, arriving at Newhaven, embarked for Dieppe ; but the 
 steamer did not sail until the next morning, on account of low 
 tide. Consequently we lost the first train to Paris ; but our 
 disappointment was an advantage in the end, as it gave us an 
 opportunity of seeing some of the notable places on the route. 
 
 Dieppe, lying between the chalk cliffs, is one of the fishing- 
 ports of France, and a summer watering-place. It was de- 
 stroyed by the English in 1694, but was rebuilt; and though a 
 very old town, its present buildings are comparatively modern. 
 It contains the statue of Admiral Duquesne, a native of the 
 city. 
 
 Our next stopping-place was Rouen, the ancient capital of 
 Normandy, a town situated on the Seine ; and from its extensive 
 manufactures it has been compared to Manchester, England. 
 It occupies an important place in French history. The Place 
 de la Pucelle contains an insignificant statue of Jeanne d'Arc, 
 erected on the spot where she was burned by the English,
 
 FROM EDINIiUIifHI TO LONDOX. 47 
 
 in 1431. Rouen contains a Museum of Antiquities, witli Roman 
 relics and historic painted glass, a Ceramic Museum, and tlie 
 Palace of Justice. The building called Les Halles, forming a 
 part of the Nieille Tour, is where Prince Arthur was murdered 
 by order of King John. The Cathedral of Notre Dame has 
 a grand Gothic fa(;ade with elaborate decorations, and a spire 
 rising four hundred and eighty-two feet from the ground. The 
 Tour de Beurre was so called, it is said, from having been built 
 with money paid for indulgences to eat butter during Lent. The 
 interior of the church is four hundred and thirty-five feet 
 in length, and is in the early pointed style, with beautiful 
 carving and old painted glass. Rollo, the first Duke of Nor- 
 mand}', was buried hi the chapel at the end of the nave, and 
 the heart of Richard Coeur-de-Lion and the remains of some 
 other royal persons are entombed in the choii-. Besides the 
 cathedral, the Church of St. Owen, begun in 1318 and com- 
 pleted in 1853, the Church of St. Maclou, with its triple 
 porch, and some of the other public buildings are interesting 
 to the tourist. 
 
 After a brief visit to this ancient city, we resumed our 
 journey to Paris, the Mecca of all travellers, where we arrived 
 late at night, and, after some bickering with " cabby," drove to 
 our place of rest, the Hotel Britannique, on the Avenue 
 Victoria.
 
 48 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOIiEIGN TBAVEL. 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 France. — Scenes in Paris. 
 
 We made our first visit to the Louvre August 1 : a mar- 
 vel in itself, containing invaluable treasures of art, which will 
 require many days' study before a tolerable idea of them can 
 be gained. Leaving the Art Gallery, we went to the Arc de 
 Triumphe, at the end of the Champs-Elys<?es, begun by Napo- 
 leon I., 1806, in commemoration of the victories of the French, 
 and finished in 1838, by Louis Philippe. It is Grecian in 
 design, one hundred and sixty-one feet in height, and cost 
 more than two million dollars. The arch contains a large 
 number of reliefs, representing the different battles of the 
 great conqueror, and the names of nearly four hundred of 
 his generals. Some of the other notable places in Paris or its 
 neighborhood are the following : — 
 
 The Hotel de Dieu, the oldest hospital in the city, said to 
 have been founded by King Clovis, 465-511, is on both 
 sides of the Seine, the different parts being connected by a 
 bridge ; but on account of the inconvenient and unhealthy 
 location, preparations were going forward for its removal. 
 
 The Jardin des Plantes are not equal to the Gardens at 
 Kew, though they contain large collections from the animal, 
 vegetable, and mineral kingdoms. The latter is large and 
 well selected, but the zoological department is surpassed by 
 that of Regent's Park. During the bombardment of Paris, in 
 1871, considerable damage was done to the garden, and many 
 of the animals were killed for food during the siege. The 
 Labyrinth, so called, is a complicated series of winding patlis 
 leading to the summit of a mound, forming a kind of pavilion 
 shaded by a cedar of Lebanon.
 
 t;uAM> l4oiLE\Aiu>, Paris. 
 
 Hotel i>e \'ili.e, Pakis.
 
 FRANCE. — SCENES IN PA lilS. 4 9 
 
 The Museum of Geology and Mineralogy contains tlie col- 
 lection of Ilaiiy, the founder of crystal lograpli}- and scientific 
 mineralogy, while the collection of fossil animals was the work 
 of Cuvier. The library of the museum comprises about seventy 
 thousand volumes. The Museum of Comparative Anatomy, 
 also instituted by Cuvier, is said to be the largest of its kind in 
 Europe, and is furnished with laboratories and lecture rooms, 
 to which students are admitted almost free of charge ; and 
 during the summer fifteen hundred attend free lectures. 
 There are sixteen professors, and some of the most eminent 
 naturalists of France have been connected with this museum. 
 
 Returning to Paris by boat, we made another visit to the 
 Louvre, thence to the Gardens of the Tuileries and the Place de 
 la Concord, remarkable for its decorations and its associations 
 with historical events. It is considered the " culminating 
 point " in " the most splendid city of the world." The centre 
 of the " place " is occupied by an equestrian statue of Louis 
 XV., erected in 17G3. Here twelve hundred persons, it is 
 said, lost their lives during a panic, on the occasion of cele- 
 brating the marriage of the Dauphin and Marie Antoinette. 
 
 The Obelisk of Luxor, a monolith of red Egyptian granite 
 or syenite, brought from the great Temple of Thebes, where it 
 was erected by Rameses the Great, 1350 B. C, is a little 
 more than seventy-four feet in height, and weighs five hundred 
 thousand pounds; it cost four hundred thousand dollars to 
 remove it to France. Near the spot occupied by this obelisk, 
 the guillotine was erected for the execution of Louis XVI. ; 
 and here between one and two thousand persons, including 
 members of the roj'-al family and other distinguished individ- 
 uals, perished in the same manner. The Place de la Concord 
 is adorned by eight colossal statues representing different cities, 
 and is furnished with two fountains. During the Franco- 
 German War this beautiful park was occupied by foreign 
 troops, and subsequently was much injured during the civil 
 war with the Communists. 
 
 The Palace of the Tuileries, begun in 1564, received addi- 
 tions from various sovereigns, but it was not completed until
 
 50 PLEASAXT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 the reign of Louis Philippe. It was considered the finest 
 specimen of the Renaissance style in France, but its historical 
 interest far exceeds its architectural. Louis XVL, when 
 brought a prisoner from Versailles, 1789, was confined here 
 until his execution, in 1793 ; but it was not generally used as 
 a royal abode until the time of Napoleon L The Tuileries 
 was a conspicuous figure in the great French Revolution, 
 when it was ass.iiled by the mob on several occasions. During 
 one of these outbursts the Swiss Guards, two huudred National 
 Guards, and one hundred domestics were massacred by the 
 infuriated populace. When the National Convention was 
 sitting in this palace, Bonaparte, with eight thousand troops, 
 defended it, and cleared the streets of forty thousand assailants. 
 The palace was sacked in the Revolution of July, 1830, and 
 again in 1848, when the mob seized it after the flight of Louis 
 Philippe, and in 1871 it was nearly ruined. It was captured 
 and pillaged several times, and finally destroyed, with nothing 
 left but parts of the walls. The Gardens of the Tuileries 
 extend from the palace to the Place de la Concord, and, being 
 supplied with grass-plots, flowers, water basins, statues, etc., 
 constitute a favorite place of resort for Parisians. 
 
 The Champ de Mars, which we reached by boat, is a parade 
 ground covering seven hundred and fifty thousand square 
 yards. The earthen ramparts were raised by sixty thousand 
 Parisians of both sexes in one week, to be in readiness for the 
 Grande Fete de la F^d^ration, celebrated July, 1790. Prince 
 Talleyrand, then Bishop of Autun, officiated, assisted by four 
 hundred priests, at a temporaiy altar, in the presence of the 
 king. National Assembly, and one hundred thousand specta- 
 tors, when the sovereign swore fidelity to the Constitution. 
 A Military School occupies a place in these grounds, which 
 have been the theatre of imposing fetes and parades, both 
 peaceful and revolutionary. 
 
 The Hotel des Invalides, founded by Louis XIV., as a home 
 for aged, infirm, and wounded veterans, is near the Seine, not 
 far from the Military School ; and an esplanade, planted with 
 trees, extends from the river to the hospital. The hotel, with
 
 FRANCE.— SCENES IN PARIS. 51 
 
 its eighteen courts, occupies sixteen acres, and has a front six 
 hundred feet in length. The church connected with it, con- 
 sidered one of tlie finest in Paris, lias a nave two hundred and 
 twenty feet long and seventy wide, with battle-Hags suspended 
 from the roof ; three thousand of these were taken in the wars 
 of Napoleon. His tomb, nineteen feet below the pavement, 
 surrounded by a circular marble balustrade, is under the dome. 
 The sarcophagus is said to be of polished granite from Russia, 
 tliough it has been designated porpliyry ; marble staircases 
 lead to the vault. Both Jerome and Joseph Bonaparte were 
 buried in the Church of the Hotel des Invalides. 
 
 To close the day's adventures, we went to the Bois de Bou- 
 logne, called the Hyde Park of Paris, though until 1852, when 
 Napoleon HI. improved and adorned it, and presented the park 
 to the city, it was a kind of forest with walks and drives. It 
 covers about two thousand five hundred acres, with numerous 
 artificial ponds, or lakes, and waterfalls ; the most remarkable 
 being the Cascade de Longchamps, consisting of rock-work, 
 with caverns and precipices, over which the water descends 
 forty feet. A small Zoological Garden occupies a place in the 
 park. The Bois de Boulogne embraces more variety than some 
 of the English parks ; but it has fewer large trees, many of 
 them having been cut down by hostile armies. Having given 
 some time to the public institutions and places, we resumed 
 our study of the churches. 
 
 The celebrated Church of the Madeleine, built in imitation 
 of a Grecian temple, was founded in 1764, but it was not com- 
 pleted until 1842. It is surrounded by porticos of fifty-two 
 fluted columns, ninety-four feet in height. The south pedi- 
 ment has a representation in bas-relief of the Last Judg- 
 ment, and on the bronze doors are pictured The Giving of 
 the Commandments. The church, with its four domes, is 
 decorated with colored marbles, and over the High Altar is a 
 marble group of the Assumption of the Virgin, while paintings 
 and statuary adorn the walls. Though the Madeleine is one 
 of the most fashionable churches in Paris and cost half a mil- 
 lion pounds, yet, in our humble opinion, it is open to criticism.
 
 52 PLEASAXT MEMOEIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 It is lighted from above, which to us seemed objectionable. 
 The Cathedral of Notre Dame, on the Isle de la Cit^, in 
 the Seine, was begun 1160 ; but as is usual with the celebrated 
 churches of Europe, it was not completed until centuries 
 afterw^ards. During the Revolution, 1793, it was desecrated 
 by the rabble and named the " Temple of Reason," wdiere they 
 celebrated the "Feast of the Goddess," personated by a 
 printer's wife. The west front of the building has three lofty 
 portals, ornamented with reliefs, representing the Last Judg- 
 ment, the Life of the Virgin, and the Life of St. Anne ; 
 and the niches at the side are filled with statues of angels, 
 prophets, and saints, while a series of twenty-eight arches 
 above are occupied by those of the kings of Judah. Two 
 massive towers, two hundred and twenty- four feet in height, 
 intended to be surmounted by stone spires, have been left 
 incomplete. The small, slender spire, rising from the centre, 
 appears insignificant on so grand a structure. The exterior is 
 flanked on all sides by flying buttresses, but the small height 
 of the piers and arches of the nave detracts from the grandeur 
 of the interior. The length of the nave is three hundred and 
 ninety feet, and the height of the central aisle is one hundred 
 and five feet. Spacious vaulted galleries, the High Altar, con- 
 sisting of a marble group representing the Descent from the 
 Cross, various monuments, both ancient and modern, colored 
 glass, the gilded railing about the choir, are all interesting 
 objects. Some of the historical memorials have been removed 
 or destroyed during the revolutions and civil wars that have so 
 often visited Paris. 
 
 The Pantheon or Church of St. Genevieve, situated on the 
 highest ground in Paris, is three hundred and forty feet in 
 length and two hundred and sixtj'^-seven in height to the top of 
 the lantern, and of fine proportions, and is in the Italian style 
 of architecture. The dome, resembling those of St. Paul's, 
 London, and St. Peter's, Rome, though smaller, is very 
 beautiful and graceful in design. The columns are Corinthian, 
 and the pediment has a group of statuary in relief, represent- 
 ing France distributing rewards to her distinguished sons.
 
 FRANCE. — SCENES IN PARIS. 63 
 
 Voltaire, Rousseau, and many other Frenchmen are buried here. 
 The ecclesiastical part of the building is hardly in keeping with 
 oth'jr departments. The choir is inferior, and some of the 
 stone-work is entirely bare of ornament, while there are but 
 few paintings, though the interior of the dome, as well as the 
 exterior, is elegant. This edifice has a romantic history — a 
 church in 17C2, a pantheon in 1792, a church in 1822, a 
 pantheon in 1831, and a church for the third time in 1853. 
 It was a place of refuge for the insurgents of 1849, and suf- 
 fered during the bombardment by the Prussians in 1871. 
 
 The Church of St. Germain I'Auxerrois, opposite the grand 
 colonnade of the Louvre, is a fine and interesting building 
 associated with historical and tragical events. It was founded 
 by one of the early kings, and was the Court Church, 
 but no part of the original edifice remains ; the present struct- 
 ure dates from the twelfth century. The bell, now in the 
 Palais de Justice, gave the signal for the massacre on St. 
 Bartholomew's Eve, August, 1572. The church was sacked by 
 a mob in 1831, and restored by Louis Philippe in 1838. The 
 Lady Chapel forms a complete church of itself, but the 
 numerous monuments that once adorned this ancient building 
 are nearly all demolished or removed. 
 
 The Cemetery of Pere-la-Chaise, located within the fortifi- 
 cations of the city, contains two hundred and twelve acres, and 
 has been used as a burying-ground since 1804. The street 
 leading to it suggests melancholy thoughts, being mostly oc- 
 cupied by dealers in sepulchral monuments, wreaths, and other 
 artificial decorations for tombs. The immortelles are appro- 
 priate, but the bead-work and black flowers seemed inappro- 
 priate and deficient in taste. The grounds of Pere-la-Chaise 
 are beyond the walls, and are hilly, with clusters of trees iu 
 some portions. There are about sixteen thousand monuments, 
 constructed, apparently, of stone from the Paris Basin, crowded 
 closely together, with little artistic beauty, except in a few 
 instances. Nearly all the " memorials " about the graves con- 
 sisted of immortelles and bead-work, more appropriate for a 
 child's playhouse than for a tomb. The avenues are badly
 
 64 PLEASANT MEMOBIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 paved, and far from neat in appearance, while the method of 
 interments are repulsive. One class of graves can be occupied 
 only five years, another ten, but a third is held by absolute 
 right and cannot be used for other bodies ; the latter, it is said, 
 is the system now in use. Several of Napoleon's marshals, 
 persons of noble birth, distinguished authors and artists, includ- 
 ing Moliere, La Fontaine, Balzac, Arago, Rossini, De Musset, 
 Cuvier, and others were buried in Pere-la-Chaise. The 
 Jewish Cemetery within the grounds contains the remains of 
 Mile. Rachel and of the Queen and Prince of Oude, while in 
 the English department are several good monuments. Even 
 the tombs of Paris have not been respected by the rude hand 
 of violence. In the war of 1814 the Russians drove off the 
 defenders of this sacred spot and bivouacked here, and in this 
 place the Communists made their last stand, where three 
 hundred of their associates fell among the tombs, and a large 
 number were buried in one grave. One of the most interest- 
 ing graves, to the readers of romance, is that of Heloise and 
 Abelard, whose remains have been deposited here. A monu- 
 ment was being constructed to the devoted lovers, but no one 
 was working on it when we were there. What a strange 
 history does Paiis afford : so full of horrors, so replete with 
 gayety and tragedy. Evidences of these contrasts are afforded 
 in almost every part of this remarkable city. 
 
 From the quietness of Pere-la-Chaise, we went to Au 
 Bon March^, one of the largest stores in Paris, situated on the 
 Rue de Bac. The building is supplied with a library, a small 
 gallery of paintings, and other attractions. Its rival, the 
 Magasin du Louvre, is on the other side of the Seine. Both 
 stores are immense, and seem like a city of shops with almost 
 every kind of merchandise. 
 
 In the evening we went to see a fine display of jewelry by 
 gaslight, at the Palais Royal, which stands on the site of the 
 palace occupied by Cardinal Richlieu, which, after his death 
 reverted to the Crown. The building was the scene of the 
 disgraceful carousals of the regent and his daughter, and was 
 nearly consumed by fire, but rebuilt in 1781. This his-
 
 FRANCE. — SCENES IN PARIS 55 
 
 torical building lias been conspicuous in the revolutions of 
 France : it was plundered in 1848, when the magnificent 
 library of Louis Philippe was destroyed, and again in 1871, by 
 the Communists. 
 
 The palace called the Hotel du Luxembourg was begun by 
 Marie de Medici in 1615, who left it to the regent, the Duke 
 of Orleans. It passed into different hands, and was used for 
 various purposes, and was the place of meeting for the Chamber 
 of Peers until the fall of the Second Empii-e. Since the destruc- 
 tion of the Hotel de Ville, it has been used as the Prefecture 
 de la Seine. The state departments were not open to the pub- 
 lic, but a part of the palace is employed as a galleiy for the 
 works of living French artists, corresponding to the Royal 
 Academy of London, and is open to visitors. In this respect 
 the Royal Academy has an advantage over the gallery of the 
 Louvre, which admits no work of art until the artist has been 
 dead at least ten years. 
 
 Some of the paintings were fine, others were mediocre. We 
 had expected to see more of the productions of Rosa Bonheur 
 in Paris, having found a number of them in other places ; there 
 was one of her paintings, called "Ploughing with Oxen," which 
 occupied a place in one room of the gallery. The Gardens of 
 the Luxembourg, with their trees, vines, vases, fountains, and 
 statues, are a favorite place of resort for the citizens of Paris. 
 At the rear of the gardens is the statue of Marshal Ney, 
 marking the place where he was shot by the Allies in 1815. 
 The Communists in 1871 made attempts to destroy the pal- 
 ace, but were prevented by the soldiers, who killed many of 
 the insurgents. 
 
 The Palace of the Louvre is one of the largest and most 
 beautiful in Paris or, probably, in France. The present struct- 
 ure occupies the site of an early feudal fortress built by 
 Philip Augustus in 1200 A. D., and reconstructed, in part, 
 during the reign of Francis I. ; but it remaimed for Napoleon 
 III. to complete it in its grand and beautiful form. Napo- 
 leon I. constituted it a Museum of Art. The Communists 
 attempted to burn it, but only the Library of Art was
 
 56 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 destroyed, the greater portion of the other valuable treasures 
 having been sent to the arsenal of Brest for safety. The col- 
 lection of the Louvre is the largest in Europe, and has been 
 pronounced the finest on the whole, though in Italian art it 
 falls below those of Florence and the Vatican ; in Dutch art, 
 to those of the Hague, Amstersdam, and Antwerp ; in Spanish, 
 to those of Madrid; in Roman antiquities, to those of the 
 Capitol and Naples, and in Greek sculj^ture, to the British 
 Museum. Many visits to the Museum of the Louvre are 
 necessary to gain only a general idea of what it contains, 
 since it presents the whole history of art. We began to feel 
 the need of a change after a succession of daily visits to dif- 
 ferent parts of the city, therefore planned an excursion to 
 Versailles, about a dozen miles from Paris. 
 
 The celebrated city of Versailles, long the residence of the 
 French Court, was once a barren region of sand, until Louis 
 XIIL built a mansion as a resort foj- those pursuing the chase. 
 Louis XIV. erected a magnificent palace on this spot, to prove 
 what art could do against nature, and the visitor to this splen- 
 did royal domain can see how well he succeeded. The work 
 of construction was begun in 1661, but it is not known what 
 fabulous sums were lavished upon the enterprise, which sug- 
 gests the thought that here was an incipient cause of the 
 bloody Revolution a little later. The unfortunate Louis XVI. 
 and Marie Antoinette were taken from this place by an 
 excited mob, in 1789, and later suffered death bj^the guillotine. 
 It was not much used by the royal princes after this event, 
 until Louis Philippe restored it, and made it a museum for 
 works illustrating the history of France. In front of the 
 palace is the Place d'Armes, from which radiate three broad 
 avenues ; while between two extensive wings is the Cour 
 Royal, and beyond this, the Cour Marbre, which has been the 
 theatre of important events. The king's chamber, on the sec- 
 ond floor opposite this court, was furnished with a balcony, 
 from which his death was announced and his successor pro- 
 claimed. The clock was stopped at the moment of his 
 decease, and remained silent for an indefinite time. King
 
 Napoi-ko.n's Tomij. 
 
 Ci'l."NNAI>E Ol' THE I."M \1!K.
 
 FRANCE. — SCENES IN PA RIS. 57 
 
 William of Prussia was proclaimed Emperor of Germany, in 
 front of this palace, December 18, 1870, during the Franco- 
 German War. 
 
 The Palace of Versailles is so extensive, being 1,362 feet in 
 length, that between two and three hours are required to walk 
 through the rooms, without stopping to examine carefully the 
 objects it contains. The Chapel, 105 feet long and 79 in 
 height, is the place where royal marriages have been solem- 
 nized. A ball was given at this palace in 1855, at which 
 Queen Victoria and 4,000 other persons were present. The 
 galleries and halls are almost numberless, and are adorned 
 with paintings and statues ; but of all these magnificent apart- 
 ments, the Grand Gallery of Louis XIV., called the Galerie 
 des Glaces, is the most splendid. It is 239 feet long, with 17 
 windows opening upon the garden, while on the walls, pro- 
 fusely decorated with gilt and paintings, are mirrors corre- 
 sponding to the windows. 
 
 The Galerie de Constantine, embracing a suite of seven 
 rooms, contains some of the best paintings, mostly battle scenes, 
 in modern French history. The Attic du Nord is filled with 
 historical portraits, including those of some eminent persons 
 belonging to other countries. The Salon d'Hercule contains 
 one of the largest paintings known on a ceiling ; it was by 
 L. Moyne. This hall, once a part of the chapel, was used by 
 court preachei"s, including Bossuet, Massillon, and Bourdalous. 
 The Salon d'ApoUon, or Salle du Trone, was used for the re- 
 ception of foreign embassadors, and contained the silver throne, 
 afterwards sold to raise funds. Among the battle scenes in 
 the Galerie des Batailles, a hall 392 feet in length, is a paint- 
 ing representing the battle of Yorktown, executed by Conder. 
 The rooms with paintings, statues, and busts of the eminent 
 men of France are too numerous to specify. The palace may 
 be said to contain the pictorial history of France from an early 
 period to the present time. 
 
 The gardens and park are as interesting as the palace of 
 which they are adjuncts ; but what is most remarkable is that 
 the site was once a sandy waste, and that the trees had all been
 
 58 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOIiEIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 cut down, and the park had been replanted as late as 1775. 
 Avenues, fountains, rock-work, trees, grass-plots, and flowers 
 constitute a part of this delightful place. A Grand Canal, one 
 mile in length, in the form of a Greek cross, occupies the 
 grounds opposite the palace, while the Grand and Petit Tria- 
 nons are in another part. It is a magnificent sight, when all 
 the fountains are playing together, which does not often occur. 
 The small fountains begin to play about four o'clock, p. m., and 
 the large fountain, or Basin de Neptune, about five o'clock, when 
 one can hardly imagine a more fairy-like scene. Our visit to 
 Vei-sailles was a memorable one, and we returned to Paris 
 highly pleased and instructed by the day's excursion. 
 
 The Bourse is said to be one of the best examples of classical 
 architecture in Paris. It is 212 feet long, 126 wide, and 57 in 
 height, and is surrounded by a colonnade of QQ Corinthian col- 
 umns. The corners are occupied by four statues representing 
 Commerce, Commercial Law, Industry, and Agriculture. Dur- 
 ing business hours ladies are not admitted. 
 
 The Place Vendome is conspicuous in French history. The 
 statue of Louis XIV., which originally occupied the centre, was 
 destroyed in the first Revolution, and in its place Napoleon 
 erected a column in imitation of Trajan's Column, at Rome, to 
 commemorate his campaigns in 1805. The stone shaft was 
 encased in metal obtained from cannon taken in battle, and 
 covered with figures about 8 feet in height, that of Napoleon 
 crowning the monument ; the height to the top of the statue 
 was 155 feet. After Paris was occupied by the Allied armies, 
 the mob overthrew the statue, when it was melted down. Louis 
 Philippe replaced the figure of the first emperor, but the Com- 
 munists in 1871 pulled down the column. In 1874 it was 
 replaced, and in 1875 the statue was restored ; but what may 
 be the future destiny of this monument, is uncertain, since the 
 Parisian mobs seem to have an hereditary penchant to over- 
 throw the structures of their own beautiful city. 
 
 The Hotel de Cluny, including the old Roman Palais des 
 Thermes or Baths, is a very interesting place to the antiquary, 
 where remains of the Baths are still to be seen. It is supposed
 
 FRANCE. — SCENES IN PA JilS. 59 
 
 the Emperor Coiistiuiliiie ))uilt a palace on tlie site, about 300 
 A. D., wliere Julian was proclaimed emperor. The Roman 
 palace became subsequently the possession of the Abbey of 
 Cluny ; and the present hotel, erected by one of the abbots, was 
 rented to the royal family, who occasionally resided here. It 
 became the proi)erty of the nation at the Revolution, and is 
 now used for a INIuseum of Ancient, Mediicval, and Modern 
 Art; comprising objects in glass, enamel, potteiy, carving, 
 gems, jewelry, costumes, etc., arranged in a large number of 
 apartments. Among these curiosities is a set of chessmen cut 
 out of rock crystal. 
 
 The INIanufactory for Gobelin Tapestry was established in 
 1450 by John Gobelin, but since 1662 it has belonged to the 
 state. 
 
 Many of the rich tapestries found in the different palaces of 
 Europe were manufactured at these works, where from twenty 
 to thirty looms are employed in copying into these beautiful 
 fabrics the best productions of the old masters and modern 
 painters. The warp is hung vertically; while in the manufact- 
 ure of carpets the workman stands in front of his work, with 
 his copy above his head, for tapestiy, his place is back of it, 
 with his pattern behind him. The labor is all done with a 
 needle, and some pieces require from five to ten years to linish 
 them, at a cost of six thousand pounds. We saw only a 
 few artists at work upon these tapestries, and it is said the 
 whole number employed is comparatively small, usually from 
 forty to fifty. The manufactory was burned by the Commu- 
 nists in 1871, when tapestries valued at one million francs were 
 lost ; only fifteen pieces were saved. On the same day about 
 twenty Dominicans were murdered near this establishment. 
 
 The town of St. Cloud suffered in the Franco-German War, 
 and the Palace of St. Cloud is in ruins, having been destroyed 
 by French shells from Mt. Valdrien in 1870. It was the 
 favorite resort of some of the sovereigns of France, and it was 
 here that Henry III. was assassinated. The park comprises 
 about one thousand acres, and in front of the palace are two 
 artificial cascades, one of them foiming a large cataract. The
 
 60 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL 
 
 garden was named Trocadero from a battle won in Spain. The 
 walk through the Park of St. Cloud to Sevres is charming. 
 
 The Porcelain Manufactory, a government institution, was 
 established at Sevres in 1770, by Louis XV. At first trans- 
 lucent porcelain was made, but since the discovery of kaolin, 
 opaque ware has been manufactured. The Sevres w^are is 
 remarkable for the beautiful manner in which it is painted. 
 The exhibition of pottery at this manufactory is magnificent. 
 Vases of every conceivable pattern and color, plates, cups, 
 dishes of various kinds, busts, statues and pictures, besides 
 numerous ornamental and useful objects, adorn the rooms of 
 the establishment. We were admitted to the work-rooms and 
 witnessed the process of making these various articles ; and 
 the ease and skill with which the artist could transform the 
 plastic clay into so many different forms, with so little appar- 
 ent effort, was surprising. 
 
 The Isle de la Cit6, in the Seine, is an interesting locality, 
 since it constituted the principal part of mediceval Paris, and 
 is at present the site of many famous buildings, including the 
 Palais de Justice, Notre Dame, Hotel Dieu, and others, besides 
 constituting the legal quarter of the city. It is supposed 
 that a Roman palace or castle once occupied the site of the 
 Palais de Justice, which was the residence of the royal family 
 until the close of the reign of Charles V., when it was used 
 for a parliament building, courts of justice, and a prison. 
 Nearly all the original structure was destroyed by fire. This 
 palace has a tragical history, for here were held many of the 
 trials of the Revolution, when the unfortunate victims of the 
 guillotine were conducted from the Conciergerie, or prison, to 
 be tried, including Queen Marie Antoinette, Madame Elizabeth, 
 and many other distinguished persons. In September, 1792, 
 an infuriated mob massacred 238 of the prisoners. 
 
 The Magasin du Louvre, on the north side of the Seine, 
 corresponds, in some features, to Au Bon Marchd, on the south 
 side. Both are immense stores and seem to monopolize a 
 large share of the trade in Paris, if we are to judge from their 
 numerous patrons.
 
 TlIK PA.NniKON, I'AUIS 
 
 L'Aki UK TitiOMnii:. 1"ai;
 
 FRANCE. — SCENES IN PA HIS. 6 1 
 
 Sainte Cliapelle, considered one of the best specimens of 
 Gothic architecture in France, is especially distinguished for 
 its magnificent colored glass windows. This little architect- 
 ural gem is enclosed in the courtyard of the Palais de Jus- 
 tice. Its slender, graceful spire is seen shooting up over the 
 sombre pile surrounding it; and when the work of destruction, 
 during the lawless reign of the Communists, was going on 
 around it, this building was spared as if by a miracle. The 
 design of Sainte Cliapelle, founded in 1242 and completed 
 five years after, was for a depository of sacred relics, which, 
 tradition claims, included thorns from the Saviour's crown, a 
 fi-agment of the true cross, and others. At the time of the 
 Revolution, it was desecrated by being used as a clubroom, 
 and then as a storehouse for grain, but it was restored by 
 Louis Philippe and devoted to its original use. Divine service 
 is performed in it only once a year, when the Courts of Law 
 are opened, in November. 
 
 The chapel comprises two stories. The upper, which is gor- 
 geously decorated, was intended for the members of the royal 
 family, with its interior walls and roof covered with painting 
 and gilding, while the columns of the nave support statues of 
 the twelve Apostles. The windows are filled with scenes from 
 Scripture and the martyrdom of the saints. The lower chapel 
 was intended for the servants of the royal household, and 
 contains several tombstones in the pavement. 
 
 The Church of St. Eustache is the second in size of those of 
 Paris, Notre Dame being first. It is said to have the largest 
 and wealthiest parish in the city. The interior is three hun- 
 dred and thirty-seven feet in length and one hundred and nijie 
 in height. The building affords a study in the different styles 
 of architecture, Grecian, Gothic, and Renaissance. The West 
 facade is Doric below and Corinthian above, while the in- 
 terior affords Doric, Ionic, Corinthian, and composite pilasters. 
 The church contains numerous monuments, painted glass, and 
 carved wood-work. 
 
 We made another visit to the Louvre collection, our last 
 until our return after many months' wandering in other lands.
 
 62 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 From France to Belgium and Switzerland. 
 
 August 13 we started for Amiens, and on our arrival went 
 to the Hotel du Rhine; and after a short rest we found our 
 way to the Cathedral, the object of our visit. It was founded 
 in 1220, and is considered one of the finest in France, if not 
 one of the noblest Gothic churches in Europe. The west front 
 is entered by three very large, deeply recessed portals, with 
 arches supported by statues instead of columns, while statuettes 
 are employed for other architectural purposes. The building 
 is 442 feet in length, with a spire ascending 422 feet from the 
 ground. Its great height increases its grandeur, especially in 
 the interior. 
 
 Amiens is a manufacturing town with a population of more 
 than G 0,000, but during our short visit the whole time was 
 given to the Cathedral. Our next stopping-place was to be 
 Brussels, where we did not arrive until late in the afternoon, on 
 account of delays caused by taking the wrong train. The next 
 day after our arrival was " The Fete of the Assumption, " con- 
 sequently a holiday for the Belgians. After visiting a church 
 on Rue Neuve, we went to the Cathedral of St. Gudule, where 
 there were imposing services in honor of the Viigin, with a 
 display of episcopal banners, offerings, flowers, etc. Other 
 places of interest in Brussels were the Park connected with 
 the royal palace, the ducal palace, which contained a collection 
 of paintings and statuary in plaster, the Hotel de Ville, with 
 its spire rising 864 feet, and the Place des Martyrs, with a small 
 monument erected to persons who had suffered on account of 
 their religious principles. The exterior of the Hotel de Ville 
 was quite ornate, and the interior contained some paintings of
 
 BELGIUM AND SWITZERLAND. 03 
 
 no special merit, gobelin tapestry, and a variety of other 
 objects; but the Civic hall and ballroom were quite plain. We 
 were detained some time at a church on account of a thunder- 
 shower, the first we had witnessed since leaving America. 
 
 Au<Tust 16 was a memorable day in the history of our 
 travels, when we visited the famous battle-field of Wateiloo. 
 The distance from Brussels is about 12 miles, through a region of 
 charming scenery. The field of one of the greatest conflicts of 
 modern times is several minutes' walk from the railway station ; 
 and on our arrival we went to the jNIound, in the centre of the 
 battle-field, which is more than 100 feet in height, crowned by 
 a monument with the figure of a lion on the top. The ascent 
 to the Mound is made by steps on the outside, from which 
 extensive views of the surrounding country are afforded. The 
 land is perfectly level, covered with trees, grass, and fields of 
 grain, with here and there a peasant's dwelling. A guide, who 
 said he participated in the battle, manifested an old veteran's 
 enthusiasm, and pointed out the positions of the different 
 armies, he being in that of the Allies ; the place where Napoleon 
 entered the field, and that of his retreat after the conflict, and 
 mentioned several incidents of that decisive event. 
 
 As the "Day of Waterloo" occurred in 1815, the guide 
 must have been a very young soldier at the time. He said he 
 was an accredited guide and had explained the battle to many 
 distinguished visitors, including princes and sovereigns. On 
 one side of the plain is the forest, so memorable in the great 
 struggle ; but it is impossible to imagine the fearful scenes of 
 carnage that deluged these peaceful fields in human blood. 
 Belgium is a level country, very populous and fertile, with 
 vast forests and rich farms ; but the scenery at Waterloo is 
 rather monotonous. Besides the Monument and a small mu- 
 seum of relics, there is little to engage the attention of visitors ; 
 therefore after a few hours spent here, we returned to Brussels. 
 This city has a neat and agreeable appearance, and has been 
 compared to Paris, but it must be Paris on a small scale. The 
 buildings are constructed of a lightrcolored stone, similar to 
 that used in the French capital ; is not affected by the weather,
 
 64 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 and imparts a cheerful aspect to the streets, but there are not 
 many elegant structures. Another visit to the Cathedral gives 
 a better idea of its special features, notably the pulpit in fine 
 carved wood. The church is situated on elevated ground, and 
 is approached by flights of steps. The royal palace is plain in 
 its exterior, the chief attraction being the park belonging to it. 
 Leaving Brussels, a few hours' ride brought us to Antwerp, 
 an old city with narrow, crooked, and dirty streets, quaint 
 buildings with pointed roofs and notched gables, looking like 
 steps to the ridge-pole. The most interesting features of the 
 city are the churches and the Museum of Art. The Cathedral 
 is a grand pile, with a steeple reaching 403 feet and a chime 
 of 99 bells. Its decorations are very rich ; the choir, pulpit, 
 confessionals, and screens are highly ornamented with carving, 
 while some of the chapels are very gorgeous. The third cen- 
 tennial celebration of the birth of Rubens occurs on the 19th 
 inst., and preparations are making for a great festival. Very 
 rich banners are suspended in the Cathedral, which contains 
 the masterpieces of the great painter. The Descent from the 
 Cross is the chef d'oeuvre of this prolific artist, and exhibits 
 his excellences without his defects; for instance, grossness 
 in delineating the human figure. The Church of St. Paul is in 
 some respects peculiar. The statuary on the exterior repre- 
 sents scenes in the life of Christ; one group delineates souls in 
 purgatory. 
 
 The Museum contains many good pictures, including some of 
 the works of notable Flemish masters, some of large size, but 
 the exquisite little Dutch landscapes were especially pleasing. 
 Rubens, of course, graces the walls of the Museum. The 
 streets of Antwerp are badly paved except in the newer part 
 of the town, which renders walking uncomfortable. 
 
 August 18 we began our journey for Cologne through a 
 level but fertile region, with noble trees scattered along the 
 route. Our journey was uneventful until we came to Aix-la- 
 Chapelle, where we met with some annoyances to which trav- 
 ellers are liable, especially if ignorant of the customs of the 
 country. Our tickets were for the " train ordinaire," and we
 
 
 
 ^■^^f^teJS 
 
 Amiens Cathedral- 
 
 t,aoo ST4UC 
 
 ./i 
 
 t-^Jtf- * 
 
 nm 
 
 Akdh£ki&i*ib^ 
 
 Watkki.ou. , 1 roni an oNl I'rinl.
 
 BELGIUM AND SWITZERLAND. 65 
 
 must wait for it or pay an additional sum to go on. As we 
 did not know liow long we might be detained, we cliose the 
 latter alternative. Bnt a new difficulty arose: we were in 
 German territory, and French money would not pass ; so we 
 had to begin our lesson in marks, pfennigs, and other 
 outlandish mone3^ There would be a jubilee among travellers 
 if there was a universal currency. 
 
 After paying exorbitant fees to different porters, we resumed 
 our journey and arrived in Cologne late in the afternoon, when 
 we went to the Hotel du Dome, opposite the great Cathedral, 
 to which we paid our first visit after a sliort rest. The impres- 
 sion it made on our minds was indescribable ; it seemed the 
 work of a divine hand, so beautiful, so grand did it appear, 
 while the dim light and shadows lent a magical influence to 
 the scene ; the next day we attended services in the Cathedral. 
 This wonderful building is constructed of light-colored stone, 
 in Gothic style, and is conspicuous for its towers, turrets, but- 
 tresses, arches, and windows, with their decorations. It is five 
 hundred and eleven feet in length and a hundred and fortj'-nine 
 in breadth. The great heiglit of the Cathedral, the beauty of 
 its decorations, the splendid stained-glass windows, the great 
 number of arches, rendered fairy-like by the soft tints of colored 
 rays, the lofty clustered columns, crowned by carved capitols, 
 the lengthened vistas from the nave and aisles, the high clere- 
 story and triforium, all impress the visitors with solemn delight. 
 It seems to us that a grand cathedral approaches nearer the 
 works of the Creator than any other object made by man. 
 
 The Church of St. Ui'sula is an old dilapidated building, 
 famous only for containing the bones of eleven thousand nuns 
 murdered by the Huns. These relics are placed around the 
 walls, forming a decoration not particularly agreeable. The 
 Museum contains some fine specimens of stained glass and 
 some good modern paintings, especially landscapes. The col- 
 lections of other objects are quite ordinary. 
 
 Cologne, with a population of about a hundred and thirty- 
 five thousand at the time of our visit, is not a very beautiful 
 city, its chief attraction being the celebrated Cathedral, which 
 holds a first rank among ecclesiastical buildings.
 
 66 FLEASAXT MEMOBIES OF FOREIGN TRA YEL. 
 
 Auo-ust 20 we embarked on board the steamboat for a sail 
 on the Rhine. From Cologne to Bonn, the scenery is very- 
 monotonous, but above the latter place it is more variegated, 
 and at the Dracliinfelds the mountains are quite lofty ; but 
 not until we reached Coblence, did we find really grand views. 
 The precipitous rocks were covered with a light soil adapted 
 to the cultivation of the grape. One of the peculiar features 
 of the Rhine is afforded by the terraces on the sides of the 
 mountains in a series of tiers for the vines. These cultivated 
 patches on the steep declivities present a novel sight, and 
 suggest the idea of danger to the grape gatherers. Though 
 there are steps placed at certain distances apart, leading to the 
 terraces, yet the effort to reach the grapes on the brink must 
 be attended with some risk. 
 
 We confess the Rhine was disappointing ; it has no special 
 attraction aside from its associations ; the water, of a peculiar 
 green tint, is muddy, therefore lacks the charm of a clear, pel- 
 lucid stream. Its chief interest arises from its connection with 
 historical events. Our own poet was correct when he called 
 it the "castelled Rhine," on account of the great number of 
 ruined castles on its banks. These remains form a link 
 between the past and the present in human history, and reveal 
 the state of civilization in early times. 
 
 Coblence is the largest town between Cologne and Mayence. 
 The strong fortress of Erenbreightstein is called the Gibraltar of 
 the Rhine, and it looked as if entitled to the proud distinction, 
 for to our unmilitary eye it appeared perfectly impregnable. 
 We regretted that it was so late in the day, when we passed 
 " Bingen on the Rhine," that we could see but little of the town, 
 which appeared to be delightfully situated on the hills that run 
 parallel with the river. 
 
 Mayence, the end of our river excursion and where we passed 
 the night, is not an interesting town. The Cathedral, which 
 was undergoing repairs, was built of red sandstone in the 
 Romanesque style, and its only attractive feature was the 
 painted ceiling and the wood carving of the choir. The streets 
 of the city are narrow ; the market-place occupies an open
 
 BELGIUM AND SWITZERLAND. 67 
 
 square, where the women, in their quaint dresses, may be seen, 
 having come from tlie country around with their produce and 
 wares for sale. From IMayence we went to Heidelberg to see 
 the remains of the famous castle ; and arriving at the station, we 
 engaged a carriage and drove to the ruins by a circuitous route. 
 The castle occupied a high position on the side of a mountain 
 covered with trees, different from most other hills on the 
 
 Rhine. 
 
 This stronghold, built of red sandstone, was very large, and 
 a considerable part, with the walls and apartments, is still 
 preserved. The views from the castle are fine, overlooking the 
 town and the deep ravine at the foot of the hill on which it 
 was built. The winding paths, shady and cool, make it a 
 charming spot, but our pleasure was marred by the hurried 
 manner our guide conducted us over the ruins. We were 
 shown the great " Tun " in the cellar which would hold three 
 hundred thousand bottles of wine, besides another receptacle 
 for liquor, nearly as large. Our guide told us that the 
 " Court Fool " of one of the barons was accustomed to drink 
 eighteen bottles of wine a day. We were shown the kitchen, 
 which seemed like a cellar with a large chimney, where a whole 
 ox was roasted at one time. The wine and the ox are pretty 
 substantial proofs of the drinking and gastronomic habits of 
 early times. Heidelberg offers many other attractions to the 
 tourist, but our plans compelled us to forego the pleasure of 
 seeing them, and after a few hours spent here we left for 
 Strasburg. Our route lay through a level, uninteresting 
 region, but it was not in a direct line, since the railway makes 
 a large circuit nearly two thirds around the town, outside the 
 fortifications, but the tall spire of the celebrated Cathedral 
 served as a landmark. This building, the chief object of our 
 visit to this place, is made of sandstone, and is memorable for 
 the height of the spire, more than five hundred feet, and the 
 highest in Europe, reaching to the clouds. One is inspired 
 with a feeling of awe at the magnificence of the edifice. The 
 carving of the principal entrance is remarkable for its delicate 
 beauty.
 
 68 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 Though the Cathedral was founded in 1015, yet at the time 
 of our visit it was still unfinished, but has since been com- 
 pleted. The original design was for another tower and spire 
 to correspond with the one finished; as it now appears, the 
 building is wanting in symmetry, and might be compared to a 
 veteran with one arm. The interior is less grand than the 
 Cologne Cathedral ; the columns are made of stone of two 
 different colors, giving them a banded appearance. The most 
 conspicuous features of the interior are the elegant carving of 
 the pulpit and the remarkable astronomical clock. The Cathe- 
 dral was considerably damaged in the Franco-German War, and 
 during the bombardment the libraiy of nearly two hundred 
 thousand volumes was burned. Strasburg, formerly a " free 
 city," was seized by Louis XIV., and remained in possession of 
 the French until 1870, when it passed into the hands of the 
 Germans. The walls and fortifications of this important 
 military post prove that a severe struggle would be necessary 
 to capture such a stronghold, if the besieged made a stubborn 
 resistance. 
 
 After leaving Strasburg our journey was through the Black 
 Forest, affording some of the grandest and most picturesque 
 scenery we had thus far seen. We passed over and around 
 mountains, with an occasional tunnel ; and as we continued to 
 ascend we could look down upon the road we had just passed 
 over, sometimes on the right and then on the left, while along 
 the whole distance fertile valleys and small villages were 
 scattered, adding an agreeable variety to the landscape. 
 
 The country on the south slope of the mountains spreads 
 out into plains reaching to Lake Constance, which affords beau- 
 tiful scenery, though less grand than that of some of the other 
 Swiss lakes. This lake is a lovely sheet of water, clear and of 
 an emerald green, though it has been called blue — it may be 
 sometimes, as blue is a more poetical color than green, and 
 forms a better contrast to vegetation. 
 
 The city of Constance has an unenviable notoriety, as having 
 been the place of the trial and martyrdom of John Huss and 
 Jerome of Prague, about 1414 A. D. It is a quiet and rather
 
 BELGIUM AND SWITZERLAND. 69 
 
 dull German town on the slioie of the lake. As tlie day was 
 rainy we did not take our intended sail on its waters, to visit 
 the quaint town of Bregenze, saved by the lieroism of a young 
 maiden three hundred years ago ; but when the storm ceased 
 we took a walk through the town. The avenue bordering the 
 lake forms a delightful promenade, with pretty houses and 
 charming villas on the German side, and cultivated hills on 
 the Swiss side. The Cathedral, begun in 1048, was rebuilt in 
 the beginning of the sixteenth century. Its principal character- 
 istics are the carved oak doors and the cloisters on the north 
 side ; while the brown stone of the building, with its soft tint, 
 harmonizes with the green moss that covers it. 
 
 We left Constance, August 24, for Schaffhausen and Zurich 
 by steamboat, and had a delightful sail, with the mountains in 
 sight, while Stein Tower, crowning a lofty crag, stood like a 
 sentinel over the surrounding country. The waters of the 
 Rhine, as they issue from the lake, are a clear green, quite dif- 
 ferent from that farther below. The Falls of Schaffhausen, or 
 more properly Westhausen, are the most noted in Switzerland. 
 The river at this place is bordered by a high, precipitous 
 bank, and forms a series of small cataracts, when it finally 
 dashes over sharp rocks, and is broken into spray, rising in fine 
 mist. In the middle of the cataract, two rocks ascend far 
 above the foam, one of them being worn by the water until it 
 forms two piers with an arch, like those of a bridge. The 
 scenery about the falls is picturesque and sometimes grand, 
 but SehatYhausen bears no comparison with Niagara. The 
 encroachments of art on such grand scenes are unpleasantly 
 obtrusive ; for the mind, in its meditative moods, desires to 
 hold intercourse with nature alone in her grand lessons. 
 
 Zurich is picture.S(iuely situated on the declivity of lofty 
 hills bordering Lake Zurich and the river Limraat; the upper 
 part of the town connnands a fine view of the surrounding 
 mountains. Some of the more recent buildings are tasteful, 
 and remind one of Brussels; but there are not man}- public 
 edifices of special interest. The Post Office, of light-colored 
 sandstone, is one of the finest. The Cathedral is au old build-
 
 70 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 ing, very plain, the only ornaments being a painted glass win- 
 dow and a little carving on the capitals of the short, clumsy 
 Korman columns. The only interest attached to this building 
 arises from its being the place where the reformer Zwingli 
 preached. The older part of the city has some quaint build- 
 ings and narrow streets. 
 
 The route from Zurich to Lucerne is through a delightful 
 region, where we gained a full view of the lofty, snow-crowned 
 Alps, so inspiring to the imagination, without the disappoint- 
 ment often attending the first sight of remarkable objects ; they 
 even exceeded our most sanguine expectations. Art has faith- 
 fully represented the grandeur of Alpine scenery, as well as art 
 can represent nature ; but when she has done her utmost, she 
 falls very far below the reality. It is much easier to represent 
 a mountain, a tree, a green meadow than a cascade, a flowing 
 river, or the surging of an ocean billow, for the reason that 
 sound and motion cannot be transferred to canvas, and these 
 form a part of Swiss scenes. Lucerne is delightfully situated 
 on the lake of the same name and the River Reuss, in an 
 amphitheatre of lofty, snow-capped mountains and fertile foot- 
 hills ; it is considered one of the most charming towns, for its 
 location, in Switzerland. The Righi, Mt. Pilatus, and the 
 white tops of Uri and Engelberg are in sight. The walls and 
 water towers of the town were built in 1385 ; the latter con- 
 tain the archives of the city. The Cathedral, dating from 
 1506, contains a celebrated organ, a rival to that of Freiburg, 
 which we had the good fortune to hear. 
 
 Near the Cathedral is the " Lion of Lucerne," the work of 
 Thorwaldsen, completed in 1821, to commemorate the death of 
 seven hundred and eighty-six Swiss soldiers who fell in defend- 
 ing the Tuileries in 'Paris August, 1792. The Lion, cut in 
 high relief in a rock occupying its natural position, is twenty- 
 eight feet in length, and is represented as reclining in a grotto, 
 in a dying condition. This monument is one of the grandest 
 and most impressive we have ever seen ; it has the simplicity 
 of nature, and is an appropriate tribute to the brave heroes 
 who fell at the post of duty. What are called the " Glacial
 
 BELGIUM AND SWITZERLAND. 71 
 
 Gardens" consist of deep wells or holes made in the solid 
 rock, by the action of glaciers, it is supposed. They are 
 smooth and circular, and were probably caused by stones car- 
 ried around by water. In some of these cavities were large 
 rounded pebbles, which, like the pestle of a mortar, may have 
 assisted in the work of excavation. The largest cavity is 
 twenty-eight feet in diameter and thirty-three in depth. The 
 sandstone rocks contain fossil shells and plants, while some 
 of the bowlders are granite, which proves they were trans- 
 ported tliitlier, since granite is not a native rock in this vicin- 
 ity. The discovery of these pits was made in 1872, by work- 
 men who were digging a cellar. 
 
 Monday, August 27, a memorable event occurred in our 
 experience, the ascent of Mount Righi. The weather was all 
 that could be desired for such an enterprise. The sail to 
 Fluelen, at the end of Lake Lucerne, was in view of grand 
 and picturesque scenery, mountains covered with snow, othei-s 
 with rocky walls and buttresses of great height, and others 
 still were dotted to their summits with Swiss cottages and cul- 
 tivated tracts of land. It seems incredible that the moun- 
 taineei-s can climb to these, apparently, inaccessible steeps, to 
 gather their scanty crops. Lake Lucerne is famous in the 
 poetry and romances of the country, as the scene of the ad- 
 ventures of William Tell. The Swiss, evidently, believe in 
 the deeds of their hero, as his name is in some manner con- 
 nected with different localities. If any person thinks Tell 
 was a mythical character, let him come to Switzerland, when 
 he will change his opinion ; for traditions connected with 
 events so near our own times, and possessing so much consist- 
 ency, must have a foundation in historical facts. Scepticism 
 is often more credulous than faith. On the summits of many 
 Alpine mountains are to be seen small villages and isolated 
 hotels, as if intended for the inhabitants of the air or the 
 planetary worlds. 
 
 Returning from F'luelen, we landed at Vitznau for the train 
 to the top of Righi, and after some delay started on our aerial 
 journey. The road passes along the sides of the mountains,
 
 72 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 which are not very precipitous, except in a few places, and by 
 cultivated fields extending to the summits. Magnificent pros- 
 pects were open to our view until we reached the top, when a 
 glorious vision burst upon us. Half way around the horizon, 
 peak after peak, with their rocky and snow-covered crests of 
 indefinite forms, reached to heaven, so that clouds and moun- 
 tains were blended in outlines forming a panorama one might 
 imagine to be a vision of the celestial world ; indeed, it was 
 difficult to believe the view was of earthly scenes. No pen or 
 pencil could possibly represent the complete beauty and grand- 
 eur of the sight. On the other side of Righi, lying at its 
 base, are beautiful valleys with their lovely lakes and green 
 fields. 
 
 The Alps thus far are different from other mountains we 
 have seen ; their geological structure is different. The rocks, 
 varied in appearance, sometimes assume the forms of walls 
 and castles, while their soft tints afford a very agreeable effect, 
 especially when they are suffused by the rays of the setting 
 sun. Our day of exquisite enjoyment did not end without an 
 accident to the engineer of the train, whose foot was crushed 
 by the wheels ; we were thankful it did not prove fatal. 
 
 Our journey from Lucerne to Brienz was made partly by 
 steamboat and partly by the " diligence," tlu'ough a region of 
 grand and beautiful scenery, while the snow-clad Wetterhorn, 
 with its triple peaks, was in sight most of the way. This was 
 our first experience in crossing the Alps ; and though this pass 
 is less remarkable than most others, yet as we advanced, the 
 views were grander, approaching the sublime. 
 
 Brienz is a small village on the shore of a lake which we 
 crossed for the Falls of Griesbach, where we intended to spend 
 the night in order to witness the illumination. Nothing could 
 be more romantic than this place. The hotel is on the side of 
 the mountain, some distance from its base, and opposite the 
 Falls, which in the evening are illuminated by calcium lights, 
 producing a magical effect. The spectacle lasts only a very 
 short time, and tlie expense is defrayed by the travellers, 
 whether they seek the entertainment or not. The next

 
 BELGIUM AND SWITZERLAND. 78 
 
 morning we made an early visit to tlie Falls before the (illier 
 guests were stirring, that we might be alone with nature in 
 one of her grandest displays. 
 
 Lakes Hagel and llexen are the source of these celebrated 
 Falls, which descend from a great height, and are broken into 
 fourteen distinct cascades, crossed by several foot-bridges, one 
 of them occupying a place behind the cataract. The steep 
 precipices over which the water falls must have been subjected 
 to a great pressure, since the layers in some places are in a 
 vertical position. The rocks are generally of a slaty structure, 
 though there are large bowlders of greenish-colored granite 
 or gneiss. The ascent is made by a zigzag path near the cas- 
 cade. The mountain is covered with trees and the rocks with 
 moss and wild plants. We made search for the Edelvveisse, the 
 little modest Alpine flower; but the natives take the precaution 
 to gather them for sale to tourists. At the foot of the moun- 
 tain lies Lake Brienz, with its opposite shore walled by the 
 Alps. The hotel, romantically situated far above the lake, 
 though large, is generally crowded with visitors at this season 
 of the year. 
 
 August 29 we embarked for Boenigen, situated at the end 
 of the lake, thence travelled by rail to Darlingen. The rail- 
 way carriages are furnished with an upper story, where fine 
 views are obtained of the surrounding country. At Darlingen 
 we left the train for a sail on Lake Thun, said to be the deep- 
 est of all the Swiss lakes. The views everywhere are delight- 
 ful, yet so varied that one never tires of them. At Thun, a 
 town on the lake, we made another change from boat to train, 
 and arrived at Berne, the capital of Switzerland. This city, 
 on the River Aar, a winding stream, is surrounded by hills 
 and terraces, with the Alps rising m numerous peaks in the 
 distant horizon ; and from one of these terraces we were 
 favored with a magnificent view of a Swiss sunset, a sight not 
 easily described nor soon forgotten. A soft haze suffused every 
 object, while the effect of the sun's rays on the snow-covered 
 mountains was glorious to behold. These Alpine heights do 
 not seem to belong to earth, and it is difBcult to feel they are
 
 74 PLEASAXT MEMOBIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 a part of our planet. Their proper sphere is the clouds, as, to 
 our narrow range of vision, they partake of the aerial nature 
 of clouds, and might appropriately form the abode of beings 
 superior to man. Beautiful, sublime, boundless, ethereal, they 
 seem. What other material objects can inspire the mind with 
 such awe and admiration ? What scenes in nature can com- 
 mand such homage, or so elevate the feelings above the petty 
 affairs of life, and direct them to the Author of the wonderful 
 works of creation ? 
 
 The old city of Berne is very quaint and distinguished for 
 its peculiar roofs and chimneys, its arcades and dark shops, its 
 numerous fountains, its odd clock, its Cathedral, with groups 
 representing the Last Judgment carved on the door, and finally, 
 the three bears maintained in state at the public expense. The 
 Museum contains a very good collection of minerals and fossils 
 mostly from the Alps ; one specimen of smoky quartz weighed 
 four hundred pounds. The Federal Palace, of light-colored 
 sandstone in plain rustic work, though a large building, is in 
 other respects quite in keeping with the little modest 
 republic. 
 
 Leaving Berne for Geneva August 30, a very warm day, we 
 landed at the Hotel du Lac, where we found letters from home; 
 but the next day we went to a " Pension," or boarding-house, 
 on Rue du Mont Blanc. Here we were in the city of Calvin, 
 and soon to begin our sight-seeing. We first went to the 
 Hotel de Ville, where the Alabama commissioners assembled. 
 A marble tablet commemorating the event has been placed on 
 the wall of the room where they held their deliberations. A 
 peculiar feature of the hotel is a paved road like a winding 
 carriage-way leading to the different stories instead of flights 
 of steps. It might have been constructed for the convenience 
 of the burgomasters who found it wearisome to climb a stair- 
 case. 
 
 Lake Geneva deserves all the encomium it has received from 
 poet and tourist. " Clear, placid Leman " is a Yerj appropriate 
 epithet, since its waters are very clear, though they do not 
 always appear blue. The lihone, of a beryl-green hue, issues
 
 ( r)« IIKNKN. TlIK ST. I ii>l llAKIi Irwi I. 
 
 HoiKL oi TiiK Si. 1!i;i:n.vi;i«
 
 BELGIUM AND SWITZERLAND. 75 
 
 from its southern extremity on its swift course to the sea. 
 The Botanical Gardens and the University are both places of 
 interest; yet for want of time they received only a passing 
 notice ; but in our rambles we came to the Russian Churcli, a 
 small building, with the peculiar-sliaped domes of the Greek 
 churches. This part of the city is comparatively new, and sev- 
 eral buildings were in the process of construction. A stone of 
 a delicate shade of green is much used, which produces a pleas- 
 ing effect when employed with other colored stones, but it does 
 not look so well when used alone. A whimsical effect is pro- 
 duced by the odd chimney tops, consisting of pipes, some erect, 
 others inclining in all directions, while others have a cover 
 raised a few inches from the i)ipe. More awkward contriv- 
 ances for chimneys could hardly be invented. The streets of 
 Geneva were never sprinkled when we were there, therefore 
 the dust was very annoying, almost unendurable. 
 
 Sunday, September 2, we attended church at the Cathedral 
 of St. Peter, where Calvin preached. It is a plain building, 
 parts of which were constructed in the eleventh century. Tlie 
 service was more simple than that of the Roman church. The 
 preacher seemed very fervent in his extempore prayer ; but 
 being in a foreign language, we could not understand it. We 
 then went to the Russian church, which was decorated after the 
 Byzantine style. There were no seats for the audience. Every 
 one stood through the service except a few who were accom- 
 modated with temporary ones ; but there was less ceremony 
 than in the Catholic churches, though there is a similarity in 
 their rituals, as the incense, the genuflections, etc. The 
 priests' robes and the altar cloths are very rich. 
 
 Geneva has been the birthplace or the residence of many 
 distinguished persons, and the scene of some of the great 
 reforms and progressive movements of the world. 
 
 From the Rue du Mont Blanc we can see the monarch of 
 the Alps, with his majestic head covered with snow, and it is 
 well to have a view of it at some distance. We went to see 
 the junction of the Ai've and the Rhone, which are quite unlike 
 in appearance. The waters of the former are clay color, due
 
 76 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 to the presence of sand, while those of the latter are blue or 
 green ; besides, the Rhone is a very swift river, while the Arve 
 is slow. Hence the waters of the two streams flow side by side 
 for a considerable distance without mingling, affording a novel 
 sight. A foot-bridge spans the Arve which leads to a park 
 called Les Bois de la Batie, affording excellent views of the 
 city. Returning to town we came across a wood carving rep- 
 resenting a plan of the Mt. Blanc range, Chamounix, and 
 Martigny, places we intended to visit. 
 
 Prigny, on the shore of the lake, a few miles from Geneva, 
 contains the park and mansion of Adolph Rothschild. It is 
 built of light-colored stone, and is elegant in design and beauti- 
 ful in its surroundings. The architectural ornaments are chaste 
 and appropriate, while the flowers, trees, parks, and vases are 
 beautiful and tasteful. The villa is on high ground, and com- 
 mands a view of the lake and Mt. Blanc. The region between 
 this place and Geneva affords charming villas and picturesque 
 towns scattered along the shores of the lake, but the Scenery 
 is less grand than that on Lake Lucerne. 
 
 We left Geneva for Chamounix, travelling by diligence. 
 The day was fine, and we took an early start, but were some 
 annoyed about our seats, but after a little vexation we deter- 
 mined to enjoy as much of the scenery as we could. The 
 exploit of getting into a diligence is considerable. We have 
 to mount by a flight of steps, as the vehicle resembles a small 
 house in height ; our baggage is put into an apartment on the 
 lower floor, while the passengers occupy the upper stories. 
 We had six horses to draw our moving hotel. Our route along 
 the delightful valley of the Chamounix, which in the first 
 part of our course afforded views simply beautiful; but as we 
 advanced, they became grand. The mountains on both sides 
 of the valley rise to a great height, and are generally precipi- 
 tous, with immense walls of rock. About noon we came in 
 sight of Mt. Blanc, which we had seen at Geneva, a good dis- 
 tance off, but now it seemed very near. Before us was the 
 grand Monarch, and what a sublime object ! We never lost 
 sight of it during our stay at this place, as we could see it 
 from the balcony of our hotel.
 
 CiiAi-i:i, oi Wii.r.iA.M Ti.i.i. 
 
 Mont Bi.am .
 
 nr.LniUM AXD switzf.ulaxd. 77 
 
 The little village of Chamounix is enclosed by the hjftiest 
 mountains of the Alpine chain. We arrived in time to see the 
 sun set or rather fall behind the vast ramparts of niiture's 
 works. The clouds, suffused with the warm tints of the 
 descending sun, surrounded and partially enveloped the lofty 
 peaks, so that they seemed like turrets and castles in the sky. 
 The scene was constantly changing ; the light-colored rocks of 
 Les Aiguilles, shooting up to heaven, became luminous, while 
 the snow on the mountain reflected a beautiful rose-tint, until 
 the color gradually faded out, though the lofty peaks remained 
 luminous long after the mountains on the opposite side of the 
 valley Avere shrouded in darkness, and only presented their 
 gloomy outlines. How insignificant the works of man com- 
 pared with those of the Creator! These grand mountains are 
 God's cathedrals, where bright-robed angels might celebrate 
 his praise. 
 
 September 6 we ascended Mt. Montanvert, six thousand 
 three hundred and three feet in height, on mules to the Mer de 
 Glace, which required two hours. Tliis glacier is twelve miles 
 long, and from one to four wide, and fills the deepest gorges of 
 the Mt. Blanc chain ; the lower part of the glacier is called the 
 Glacier des Bois. A hotel or pension for the entertainment of 
 travellers, on the summit of Montanvert, was being constructed. 
 Here we dismounted and left our mules in charge of our 
 guide, for the purpose of exploring the glacier and other inter- 
 esting objects in this region. The top of the mountain afforded 
 magnificent views, while hundreds of feet below was a river of 
 ice ; and rising far above, were the Needles, or Les Aiguilles du 
 Dru, 12,517 feet in height, Les Aiguilles du Moine, 11,214 
 feet, Les Aiguilles du Bochard, 8,766 feet, and Les Aiguilles 
 Vert, 13,540 feet. The glacier is covered with snow mixed with 
 sand, which, on a near view, imparts a gray tint to the ice, 
 while deep crevices, through and under which the water rushes 
 with a roar like a cataract, reminding one of the ocean billows. 
 With some difficulty and danger, we descended the steep and 
 rocky sides of the mountain to the Mer de Glace, where we 
 could better examine this natural w^onder. Towards the sum-
 
 78 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 mit of the glacier, it had the appearance of a frozen waterfall, 
 as described by Coleridge, while along its course were deep 
 chasms into which one would not care to descend, and huge 
 blocks of ice. 
 
 It has been proved that glaciers are constantly moving down 
 the valley at the rate of a certain number of feet within a 
 specified time. Our ascent from the glacier to the top of the 
 precipice was far more laborious than the descent to the icy 
 plain. Truly the poet said, '■'■ Facilus descensus Averni, Sed 
 revacare gradum^ hie opus, hie lahore est." However, after 
 great toil we succeeded in climbing back, preferring this hard- 
 ship to crossing the Mer de Glace and descending by the Mau- 
 vais Pas, and, after resting awhile, mounted our mules for the 
 journey down the mountain. The path was circuitous and in 
 some places quite steep ; while the animals we rode, with mul- 
 ish obstinacy, persisted in going so near the edge of the preci- 
 pice, that we seemed to hang over it ; but they were so well 
 trained, and our guide was so careful, that our fears were 
 quieted and we descended in safety. The only living creature 
 we saw inhabiting this region was a little mouse that ran 
 across our path. 
 
 The views were constantly changing, and grand beyond the 
 power of description, while some were very peculiar, as where 
 the water had cut deep furrows or paths on the side of the 
 mountain several rods in width, branching off from the prin- 
 cipal avenue, like the limbs from the trunk of a tree ; other 
 views opened to our sight: fields covered with vegeta- 
 tion and scattered dwellings of the mountaineers. The best 
 view of Mt. Blanc was obtained in descending Montanvert. 
 After our interesting experience, we visited a small collection 
 of paintings representing Alpine scenery, and were deeply 
 impressed with their fidelity to nature in those features which 
 could be represented by art. 
 
 The rocks found in this region are mostly a coarse granite, 
 of a greenish tint, mica schist, gneiss, slate, and limestone. 
 The firs peculiar to the Alps grow wherever they can find 
 soil, while the heather and some other shrubs are somewhat
 
 BELGIUM AXD SWITZERLAND. 70 
 
 sparsely scattered about. The water flowing from the glaciers 
 had generally a greenish color. 
 
 We left Chamounix for Martigny, by carriage, over Tete 
 Noire ; and during the first part of our route, the Mt. Bhuic 
 range, with its snow-crowned summits and sharp " Needles," 
 were in sight, when, finally, we bade adieu to the grand Mon- 
 arch, with his crowned head in the clouds, made luminous by 
 the morning sun ; and as we proceeded, new scenes opened to 
 our view quite unlike those previously witnessed. The moun- 
 tains along this pass rise in steep crags to a great height, and 
 are nearly destitute of trees. The road lay between these 
 gloomy precipices, sometimes overhanging deep ravines of 
 several bundled feet. We stojjped at a hotel on the brow of 
 Tete Noire, 6,591 feet in height, where the sun is seen oidy 
 two hours during any day ; and here the wagons to and fiom 
 Chamounix meet and pass one another, forming in all a large 
 caravan. At this hotel are kept a large number of the famous 
 St. Bernard dogs. Resting awhile, our party resumed tlie 
 journey, some for Chamounix, others for Martigny. Our 
 course for some time was descending, then it changed upward 
 by the pass of the Col de Forclax, 4,997 feet. We had gone a 
 considerable distance from the hotel at Tete Noire, when one 
 of the company noticed a dog following our carriage, and 
 inquired of the driver whether it was not a St. Bernard. The 
 coachman had not observed the animal, and was much excited 
 when told about it ; and leaving his team, he attempted to drive 
 him back. After much scoldincr and threateninof with his 
 whip, saying to the dog in French, " You must go back, it is 
 necessary that you should go back," the disappointed creature 
 left us to finish our journey without him. This incident 
 showed how highly these dogs are valued by their masters. 
 
 The pass of the Col de la Forclax is steep and very winding, 
 but finally we reached the summit, when we found the descent 
 on the other side fearfully precipitous, with frequent and sud- 
 den curves. From here we had a view of the distant Montd 
 Rosso chain, with its white tops. We found oui-selves in the 
 valley of the Rhone, surrounded by steep mountains, and soon
 
 80 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 came to the insignificant village of Martign3\ The small farms 
 and hamlets we have passed to-day are evidences of poverty, 
 and it is difficult to understand how the inhabitants manage to 
 obtain a living from the scanty vegetation everywhere ajjpar- 
 ent. No wonder beggars are numerous. Swiss women of the 
 laboring classes work on the farms and bear the same burdens 
 as the men. By this mode of life, they have lost the feminine 
 softness of features, and are coarse and brown like the other 
 sex, while the older women are bowed and shrivelled beyond 
 most of those in other countries. The peasants of both sexes 
 and all ages are accustomed to carry very heavy burdens on 
 their backs, in large baskets fastened to their shouldei'S by 
 straps. They climb the steep mountains with these loads, 
 which is the usual mode of transporting everything over the 
 Alps, even the heaviest materials. 
 
 Leaving Martigny, we travelled by rail to Leuk, thence by 
 diligence to Brieg. All the villages in this region are small 
 and uninteresting ; the buildings have no architectural beauty ; 
 in fact, a large part of Swiss dwellings, outside the largest 
 towns, are mere hovels and poor at that. In the villages the 
 streets are winding and without sidewalks, and not unfre- 
 quently the houses stand directly on the pavement of the 
 roads, while there is a want of tidiness and thrift everywhere. 
 Our route lay between steep, rocky mountains, mostly desti- 
 tute of vegetation on the north or Oberland side.
 
 (il.ACIKK AT ai()XTAX\ Kl; I 
 
 Laki: i'I iMi: l-Oi i: ( .wions
 
 SWITZERLAND AND ITALY. 81 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 From Switzerland to Italy. 
 
 Leaving Brieg for Stresa, Italy, situated on Lake Maggiore, 
 we crossed the Simplon by diligence. This famous road was 
 made b}^ Napoleon I., 1800-1806, for a military passa<Te to 
 Italy, and is the second public road over the Alps, the fii-st 
 being the Brenner, used by the Romans. The Simplon is a 
 macadamized road, while the pass is less steep than some 
 others. The first part of the route presents no remarkable 
 features for an Alpine region ; but as we approached nearer 
 the summit, the mountains became more rugged and steep, 
 making galleries and tunnels necessary. Frequent cascades 
 occur, and in one place the water falls over the tunnel or gal- 
 lery, and dashes down a deep ravine ; so that we passed under 
 the cascade, while in another place it is precipitated over a 
 precipice under the gallery, and the road passes directly over 
 a waterfall. It is a fearful descent from the top of the moun- 
 tain to the bottom of the ravine ; and on both sides of the 
 valley steep rocks rise to immense heights, in the form of 
 bastions, buttresses, and walls so high that their summits were 
 in the clouds, while numerous waterfalls descend from these 
 immense elevations, and tumble into the river below. Only 
 stunted trees and moss could grow in so rocky a soil. The 
 highest point of the Simplon, is 6,595 feet. Frequent " Houses 
 of Refuge " are scattered along the pass ; and at the culmi- 
 nating point stands " The Hospice," established by Napo- 
 leon I. for the entertainment of travellei-s, but it remained 
 unfinished until 1825, when it was purchased by the St. Ber- 
 nard Hospice. The water of one of the cascades descends 
 from the Haltwasser Glacier; and though the defile at this
 
 82 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOBEIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 place has been fortified several times, yet the works have been 
 repeatedly destroyed by avalanches, and some of their remains 
 are still to be seen. As the road descends the Simplon, grand 
 views are afforded of rugged mountains, with their glaciers and 
 numerous little waterfalls, like threads of silver. 
 
 Bej^ond the gallery of Algaby, the ravine of Gondo begins, 
 through which the Diveria, a noisy, rapid stream, flows. This 
 ravine, one of the wildest and grandest in the Alps, becomes 
 narrower and deeper, until its smooth and precipitous walls of 
 mica slate com]3letely overhang the road. The gallery of 
 Gondo is 735 feet in length, and on either side the rocks 
 ascend 2,000 feet; the hamlet of Gondo is the last Swiss 
 village, before we enter Italy. At San Marco, the first Italian 
 town, travellers are examined by the custom-house officials, 
 which is a mere farce. As we descended to the lowlands the 
 country was more fertile, and the buildings were better and of 
 a different style from those in Switzerland; the method of 
 training the grapevine was different, being on trellises. 
 Leaving Domo d' Ossola, we passed the mountains from which 
 the marble for Milan Cathedral was quarried, also a gold mine, 
 said to be the oldest in Europe, and known to the ancient 
 Romans ; it is still worked. During our journey, we occa- 
 sionally came in sight of Mont^ Rosso, with its four snow-clad 
 peaks. Finally, the last pass of the Alps, called the Bernina, 
 was made ; and after a long day's ride, lasting from four o'clock 
 A. M. to seven p. m., we arrived at the Hotel Milano, on the 
 shore of Lake Maggiore. During the night there was a long 
 and severe thunder-storm ; but the next morning, September 
 10, was bright and beautiful, reminding us that we were in 
 " sunny Italy." We had a fine view from our hotel of Lake 
 Maggiore, with its charming islands, the Borromean, and of 
 lovely villas. We embarked for a sail around an arm of the 
 lake to Laverno, thence we journeyed by diligence to Verese. 
 The landscape of this region was delightful, affording vine- 
 yards, fields of grain, and the mulberry and fig trees. 
 
 Verese is a delightful little town between Lake Maggiore and 
 Lake Lugano, in a region dotted by charming villas and fertile
 
 SWITZERLAND AND ITALY. 83 
 
 fields. Ilei'e we stopped at the Grande Hotel, fcjiiuerly a palace 
 of some Italian noble, with extensive grounds containing a 
 grotto, said to be natural, but appearing as if it had received 
 some finishing touches from the hand of art. From the top of 
 the hotel we were favored witli magnificent views of the 
 Simplon group of mountains, the Mont6 Rosso and Mont Blanc 
 ranges. It was near sunset, and a more glorious scene can 
 hardly be imagined. To the east, the lofty summits were made 
 brilliant by the departing rays of the sun ; while nearer, on the 
 shores of the lake, the mountains were purple with the blos- 
 soms of the heather, which in the distance appear almost 
 luminous. The scenery of the Alps is so varied, combining the 
 grand and the beautiful, that one never tires of them ; though 
 there is a resemblance in some of the views, yet they are never 
 monotonous. We left Verese at an early hour, by diligence, for 
 Porto, on Lake Lugano, a small town at the foot of tiie lake, 
 where we embarked on a steamboat for the town of Lugano, on 
 the west side, where we were detained several houi-s, but found 
 little to interest us. Though there were several hotels, we 
 preferred to take our breakfast at a restaurant, the proprietor 
 of which, a young Italian, as we supposed, spoke English well, 
 and asked whether we were Americans, saying he was born at 
 Saratoga, where he lived ten years, and then came to Italy. He 
 seemed pleased to meet with persons from the United States, 
 and said he had seen General Grant and other notable Ameri- 
 cans. 
 
 The scenery of Lake Lugano, with its lofty mountains, sur- 
 passes in grandeur that of Lake Maggiore. AV^'e had a sail of 
 two hours on this beautiful sheet of water, when we landed at 
 a place where our luggage should have been examined by tlie 
 custom officers ; but we were not required even to uidock our 
 valises ; he only inquired whether we had any cigars, as if we 
 had not been sufficiently annoyed by them in all our journey. 
 The traveller should be prepared for annoyances and dela3's 
 he did not expect. After the pretended examination of our bag- 
 gage we had the trouble of taking it back to the omnibus for 
 Menaggio, situated on Lake Como, and here we were compelled
 
 84 PLEASAXT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 to wait two hours on the wharf for the boat from Colico, 
 which was to take us to Como, on the southern extremity of the 
 lake, where we arrived late in the evening, and after many 
 petty annoyances we found an asylum at the Hotel Italia, 
 where we were glad to rest even in a room with a brick floor. 
 The next morning we paid a visit to the Cathedral, one of the 
 best, after that of Milan, in Northern Italy. It is principally of 
 the Romanesque style, though parts of it are Gothic, The 
 interior of the dome appeared nearly as high as that of St. 
 Paul's, London ; the ceiling is highly ornamented with colors 
 and gold, while some of the chapels are very rich in beautiful 
 marbles and gilt, and the choir and pulpit are decorated with 
 wood carving. Though Corao is a town of considerable size, 
 the streets are narrow and crooked, and to follow them seems 
 like threading the mazes of a labyrinth. It contains a statue of 
 Volta, a celebrated Italian philanthropist, and a native of the 
 city. The manufacture of silk is the leading industry of the 
 place. 
 
 Our route from Como to Milan lay through the fertile plains 
 of Lombardy and the town of Monza, whose Cathedral contains 
 the iron crown used by the ancient kings of Lombardy, and 
 was thought to have been formed of nails from the true cross ; 
 it is richly adorned with gold and precious stones. 
 
 Arriving at Milan we stopped at a hotel on the Corso Victor 
 Emmanuel, near the Cathedral, which we visited after resting 
 awhile. The remarkable beauty and grandeur of this church 
 have not been exaggerated ; indeed, it baffles all description ; the 
 first sight of it overwhelms the mind, for it does not seem to 
 belong to earth. On a second visit we ascended to the top of 
 the roof, which is a forest of turrets and spires, each being 
 crowned with a statue and adorned with beautiful architectural 
 ornaments. The Cathedral is built of light-colored marble, 
 usually called white, but veined to some extent with delicate 
 pink and blue. The building is nearly five hundred feet long 
 and two hundred and fifty wide, and the height of the central 
 spire is more than three hundred and fifty feet ; there are one 
 hundred and six turrets and four thousand five hundred
 
 SWITZERLAND AND ITALY. 85 
 
 statues. The double aisles each side of the nave have fifty-two 
 columns, and the font of porphyry was formerly the sarcoj)!!- 
 agus of St. Dionysius, while the crypt contains the tomb of 
 St. Carlo Borromeo. The architectural ornaments are peculiar 
 to the Gothic style and very rich and elaborate. The Cathe- 
 dral was begun in 1386 and finished by Napoleon I. Seen 
 from the top it seems an object belonging to the heavens and a 
 fit companion of the snow-crowned Alps, visible in the dis- 
 tance, — the latter a work of the Divine Mind, the former, of 
 the human ; yet so transcendent the genius that designed this 
 wonderful structure, that we almost instinctively ascribe to the 
 designer god-like powers. The numerous turrets, pinnacles, 
 and statues on the elevated roof show as perfect workmanship 
 as if they were intended for nearer inspection. 
 
 We met an English gentleman and lady with whom we had 
 travelled from Como to Milan, and joined them for a tour 
 about the city, which is surrounded by a wall with twelve 
 gates. Our first object was the Teatro della Seala, considered 
 the largest building of the kind in Europe, but it is only a 
 trifle larger than San Carlos, in Kaples ; it will seat thirty 
 thousand persons. The statue of Leonardo da Vinci occupies 
 the piazza or square opposite the theatre. From the Scala we 
 went to the Brera, a picture gallery which contains some of the 
 works of the old masters, many of modern painters, and 
 statuary ; but our time was so limited that it was impossible to 
 examine them carefully. Americans are somewhat notorious 
 for '' rushing," but we found our English cousins endowed 
 with this trait, and concluded it must be an Anglo-Saxon 
 quality. After a hasty visit to the gallery we engaged a car- 
 riage and drove to the Amphitheatre de T Arena, which can be 
 filled with water for nautical entertainments. It is furnished 
 with stone seats arranged in tiers all round the arena, which 
 can hold thirty thousand spectators. It was probably con- 
 structed by the Romans of ancient times. 
 
 The Arc de la Paix, begun by Napoleon I., to commemoi-ate 
 the completion of the Simplon road, which ends here, bears a 
 close resemblance to the Arc de Triomphe in Paris. The one
 
 8G PLEASANT MEMOBIES OF FOREIGN' TRAVEL. 
 
 in Milan has six bronze horses attached to a chariot occupying 
 the centre, and one on each corner, the whole forming a very- 
 beautiful gate. The celebrated fresco of Leonardo da Vinci's 
 Last Supper is to be seen in the refectory of the monastery near 
 the Church of Santa Maria della Grazie. The painting is on 
 one end of a long hall, and is faded and otherwise injured by 
 time and neglect, and before many years it will probably be in 
 a much worse condition, if not entirely obliterated. It is sad 
 to know that one of the great masterpieces of art is fast dis- 
 appearing, though thousands of copies will transmit it to future 
 generations. Perhaps there is no work of the old masters so 
 often reproduced as the Last Supper. Near the Church of San 
 Lorenzo, once a part of an ancient Roman palace, are sixteen 
 Corinthian columns standing alone and supporting nothing, 
 but which formerly must have constituted a part of some 
 structure, perhaps a colonnade. The arcades, or walks covered 
 with a glass roof, afford fine situations for shops or stores. 
 
 To one interested in church architecture, Milan offers some 
 attractive studies. There are several churches, besides the 
 splendid Cathedral, well worth visiting, comprising St. Ambrose, 
 built of stone and brick combined; San Carlo, a basilica, very- 
 rich in decorations ; and San Alessandro, which merits a partic- 
 ■ular description. 
 
 The exterior is not specially interesting, but the interior is 
 highly decorated. The church is Romanesque in style, with 
 numerous domes, arches, and columns. The ceiling and walls 
 are adorned with frescos where they are not covered with 
 ornamental marbles and paintings, while the high altar and 
 pulpit are conspicuous for their antique marbles and gems, of 
 beautiful and variegated colors ; the same kind of ornaments are 
 seen in the chapels. Silver candlesticks, a cross of gold and 
 silver, pictures with marble frames, elegant wood carving and 
 gilt, marble mosaic pavements, rich altar coverings and statues, 
 all are profusely used in this highly decorated church. San 
 Stefano is distinguished for its white and gold draperies. The 
 numerous churches of Milan all differ from one another in their 
 construction or decorations, thus affording a pleasing feature 
 for the visitor.
 
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 SWITZERLAND AND ITALY. 87 
 
 We made another visit to the Duomo, and while there we 
 liad a view of the tomb of San Carlo Borromeo, which is lx;foro 
 the liigh altar, and is exceedingly rich in gold and gems. The 
 inner coffin is of crystal, therefore the remains of the saint, 
 dressed in costly robes and jewels, can be seen by one visiting 
 the crypt, for which five francs are demanded; but we were 
 satisfied with a partial view afforded by the grating in the 
 pavement, assisted by the light of the custodian's torch. The 
 wood carving, metallic pulpits, with gilt ornaments, and the 
 organs are all \Qvy rich. The capitals of the columns are 
 peculiar ; they are surmounted by statues arranged in niches, 
 with canopies. The windows in the apse are very large, and 
 the painted glass very beautiful. 
 
 The Arcades or Galleria Vittorio Emanuele are superior to 
 any in Paris, and are claimed to be the best of the kind in 
 Europe. The Royal Palace near the cathedral was built in the 
 seventeenth century, and contains seven hundred rooms and 
 several courts. 
 
 The celebrated Certosa near Pavia, which we visited, situated 
 about seventeen miles from Milan, is one of the most remark- 
 able monasteries of Europe for the richness and perfection of 
 its designs. The facade of white marble is a marvel of beauti- 
 ful sculpture, being covered with statues and relief, both high 
 and low, executed by skilful workmanship; while in the inte- 
 rior, elegant and elaborate decorations are seen in every i)art, 
 including carving in wood, ivory, and stone, variegated patterns 
 of marble mosaics, exquisite designs in bronze, gold, and silver 
 utensils, crosses, statues, frescos, bronze screens, and a profu- 
 sion of gems, all combining to produce a magnificent display. 
 
 Nothing is superficial or tawdry, while perfect fidelity to 
 thoroughness of execution is seen in every retired coiner or 
 dark space, equally Avith those more conspicuous. The atten- 
 tion is arrested by remarkably beautiful bronze screens, and tlie 
 rare marbles employed for decoration in the chapels ; even the 
 ornaments of the ceiling are elaborate. The material used for 
 sculpture in this monastery is a fine white marble, wliich 
 enhances the impressive beauty of the interior. The mind is
 
 88 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 bewildered, on a first visit, by the splendor and profusion of 
 the ornaments, and is amazed to witness the richness that 
 must have equalled that of the Temple at Jerusalem. 
 
 Until recently no woman was allowed to enter any chapel 
 belonging to the monastery, and could only view these sacred 
 places from the outside of the screens ; but now they are ad- 
 mitted to the same privileges as their brothers. A monk, with 
 close-shaven head and white robes, conducted our party through 
 all the apartments open to visitors, not only in the church but 
 also in the monastery proper. We visited the refectory, clois- 
 ters, and a cell belonging to one of the monks, with its small 
 garden adjoining. The buildings are surrounded by several 
 acres of ground, enclosed on all sides by a high brick wall, 
 which gave them the appearance of fortifications. The Certosa 
 will remain in our memory " a thing of beauty forever." 
 From all we had heard about it, we supposed it was remarkable 
 for its beauty, grandeur, and architectural wealth, but our most 
 sanguine expectations were more than realized. After spend- 
 ing nearly a day in viewing this miracle of art, we returned to 
 Milan to resume our sight-seeing in this renowned city. In 
 the evening we went to the Duomo, to view its exterior by the 
 light of a bright full moon ; but human language can give no 
 adequate conception of its beauty and magnificence. It seemed 
 as if it might have been the abode of the Infinite One, and 
 inspired the soul with awe. The design and structure of this 
 cathedral were the works of different architects and carried 
 through several centuries ; yet such is the harmony of the ex- 
 terior, at least, that it seems to be the labor of only one mind. 
 As we stood in the shadow of this sublime temple, we felt 
 impressed as with a celestial vision ; and it was with solemn 
 thoughts that we bade adieu to this wonderful building, unsur- 
 passed by any we had yet seen or expect to see. 
 
 As it was our purpose to visit some of the more northern 
 countries of Europe before we advanced to the central and 
 southern parts of Italy, we left Milan for Como, The Splu- 
 gen and Germany, and here we parted reluctantly with our 
 travelling companion, E. A., who returned to London, leaving
 
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 SWITZERLAND AND ITALY. 89 
 
 US to pursue our journey alone, until we should meet some of 
 our fellow-countrymen. The first part of our route was the 
 same we had just passed over, therefore there was nothing 
 specially new to attract our attention ; and when we arrived at 
 Como and found we must wait several hours for the boat to 
 Bellagio, on the lake, we occupied the time in exploring the 
 town more thoroughly than in our first short visit. Portions 
 of the city are very quaint, with narrow streets and high 
 buildings. Lombardy is fiat and generally monotonous, but 
 the region of the lakes affords some of the most beautiful views 
 of Northern ltii]y. We left Como late in the afternoon and 
 reached Bellagio, situated on a peninsula of the lake, a very 
 beautiful and romantic spot which both nature and art have 
 combined to render attractive to visitors. The principal hotels, 
 among several others, are the Grand Hotel Bellagio and the 
 Grand Hotel Bretagne. Both are large and surrounded by 
 groves, gardens, and shady walks. The promontory on which 
 the town is built rises abruptly to a considerable height, and 
 on its summit there is a pension or boarding-house for visitors. 
 The dwellings of the poorer classes are rude and the streets 
 narrow, crooked, and dirty ; while some are very steep, as they 
 are on the side of a mountain. It is a peculiarity of most Euro- 
 pean towns to find wealth, elegance, and squalid poverty in 
 close neighborhood. 
 
 The grounds about the principal hotels afford a great variety 
 of beautiful and fragrant flowers, while views from the lake 
 add to their attractions and offer an inducement to the tourist 
 to prolong his visit. September 18 we left Bellagio for Colico, 
 at the head of Lake Como. Small villages are scattered along 
 the shore and on the mountain-sides, with here and there a 
 pretty villa set as a jewel, on the sloping hill.
 
 90 PLEASANT ME MO HIES OF FOREIGN TEA VEL. 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 From Italy to Germany. 
 
 Bidding adieu to the enchanting Italian lakes, we prepared 
 for the rugged scenery of the* Alps. At Colico we exchanged 
 the agreeable boat for the less comfortable quarters of a dili- 
 gence, bound for the Splugen. It was so exceedingly dusty 
 that, notwithstanding the oppressive heat, we were obliged to 
 keep all the windows closed. The first part of the way 
 afforded no features of special interest, but as we proceeded 
 the scenery became wild and grand. The Pass of the Splugen 
 is remarkable for its rocky and steep mountains. Nature in 
 this region is seen in one of her most threatening attitudes, 
 and no one but an eye-witness can form an adequate idea of 
 her stern grandeur; frowning cliffs and yawning gulfs are 
 everywhere impending, so that one feels in danger of being 
 crushed or plunged to the bottom of a fearful abyss. Laughter 
 and even conversation appeared out of place in the midst of so 
 sublime scenery, and the traveller gazes with silent wonder and 
 almost terror at the awful majesty that reigns in these soli- 
 tudes. The narrow valleys are covered with rocks of various 
 sizes which have fallen from their original places, while little 
 patches of soil have here and there been made to yield a 
 scanty harvest by the persistent struggles of the hardy moun- 
 taineers. Our progress to the summit of the pass was slow, so 
 that we did not reach Splugen until midnight. The air was 
 chilly ; but the clear, full moon rendered the scenery so fascinat- 
 ing that we forgot our discomforts. Every object seemed to 
 possess a weird, mysterious character ; while the light-colored 
 rocks, in striking contrast with the exceedingly dark vegetation, 
 added a spectral appearance which strangely affected the imagi- 
 nation, if left to its unrestrained operation.
 
 GERMANY. 91 
 
 Cliiavenna, the last Italian town we passed tlirougli, is 
 situated in a region of wild grandeur. An old ruined CJistle is 
 perched on an eminence near tlie inn at whicli we stopped, 
 while higli crags and rocky mountains encircled tlie few 
 dilapidated buildings on the narrow and crooked streets. 
 There was a babel at the poor, little hotel, where all the 
 dialects of Christendom seemed to be represented. Tliis public 
 house, the most cheerless we had yet found in our travels, 
 was not far from the summit, at an elevation of nine thousand 
 feet, and afforded us poor accommodations for rest, as the 
 arrival and departure of travellers at all hours and the noise 
 of the porters made sleep impossible to any one except tlie 
 " Seven Sleepers." Tlie grandest, wildest, and most awe- 
 inspiring scenery of the Splugen is found on the northern side ; 
 therefore had we passed it during the night, we should have 
 lost an opportunity of studying nature in one of her most 
 impressive lessons. 
 
 When we resumed our journey the next morning, September 
 19, the weather was very cold and the ground was covered 
 with frost. Our route lay through the region called Via ^lala, 
 which surpassed anything we had yet seen in grandeur ; we 
 might say it was terrific. A deep, narrow ravine, enclosed 
 by walls of rough stone several thousand feet in height, formed 
 the bed of the Rhine, while between and around tliese preci- 
 pices the road passes hundreds of feet from the bottom of the 
 ravine. As we gazed in silent astonishment we felt certiiin 
 that some tremendous convulsion of the earth's crust in past 
 geological ages must have torn the rocks from their beds and 
 rent them asunder, to form these natural walls. Passing the 
 Via Mala, our journey to Chur was among scenes of a more 
 quiet nature ; here we exchanged the diligence for the railway. 
 All the way from Chur to Rorschach, on Lake Constance, we 
 were in sight of the distant Alps, whose bald and rocky heads 
 reached to the clouds. The steamboat for Lindau, in Bavaria, 
 did not leave for some time after our arrival ; and as the town 
 afforded no attractions we were compelled to amuse oui-selvea 
 by watching the beautiful lake. At length we embarked and,
 
 92 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 but for the cold, the sail under the light of a clear, full moon 
 would have been most enjoyable ; however, under the circum- 
 stances, we were glad when we arrived at Lindau, where we 
 bade adieu to the Swiss Alps, never to be forgotten as objects 
 of some of nature's grandest works. 
 
 September 20 we left Lindau for Munich, a good day's 
 journey through a comparatively level region. We had passed 
 from some of the wildest and grandest scenes to quiet, culti- 
 vated fields, bounded by low ranges of distant mountains. 
 Amid the terribly grand scenery of the Splugen Pass, the men- 
 tal and moral faculties are toned up to their highest pitch ; and 
 one feels so small and insignificant, in the presence of such 
 majesty, that he hardly dares to think, much less to speak. So 
 when leaving this region for those of a different character, 
 it was like passing from a grand heroic poem to the quiet 
 pastoral, and a journey to Munich was a relaxation to the mind, 
 especially, as among the six passengers in the same carriage 
 scarcely a word was spoken. Such a thing could not have 
 occurred in a company of voluble Frenchmen or Italians. 
 Munich affords many places of interest to the stranger ; there- 
 fore it was important to begin the task, or rather pleasure, of 
 sightseeing soon after our arrival. Our first visit was to the 
 Glyptothek, or museum of statuary, an elegant building of the 
 Grecian Ionic order, well adapted to its purpose. It contains 
 thirteen halls surrounding a central court, each one designated 
 hy the works it contains. The most interesting marbles con- 
 sist of the original groups from the Temple of Minerva, at 
 -ZEgina, found in 1811. They comprise two pediment groups. 
 On one is the representation of ten Greeks and Trojans fight- 
 ing for the body of Achilles ; on the other are delineated the 
 wars of Laomedon. The forms of these personages are perfect 
 in grace and proportion, but their countenances have no 
 expression, though they represent warriors engaged in deadly 
 conflict. One is attempting to draw a dart from his side, with 
 as much composure as a man would smoke a cigar ; another is 
 just ready to send a dart through his antagonist, but not a 
 muscle of his face indicates an emotion; even the dying soldier
 
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 GERMANY. 93 
 
 is perfectly calm. The Sleeping Satyr, or Barberiiia F;iun, so 
 well known to lovers of art, occupies the Hall of liacclms. 
 The bas-reliefs on the pediments over the doorways, by Schwan- 
 thaler, are exceedingly graceful. 
 
 The Museum contains six marble statues by Wagner, repre- 
 senting Pericles, Phidias, Vulcan, Hadrian, Da-dalus, and 
 Pi'ometheus, besides the works of some other celebrated sculp- 
 tors. The " Hall of the Gods " and some othei-s are decorated 
 by the frescos of Cornelius. The exhibition of statuary at 
 Munich is smaller than that of London and Paris, but it has 
 the advantage of possessing some valuable originals. Opposite 
 the Glyptothek is the Exhibition Building, in the Grecian 
 style, containing the paintings of modern artists of tlie Munich 
 school. A few of these were especially notable, including 
 Alpine views, one being a sunset. The moon was reflected on 
 the lake among the mountains ; and in the foreground was a 
 woman standing alone upon a projecting rock, looking eagerly 
 across the water, as if expecting some one, while not a dwelling 
 was in sight, — nothing except the magnificent Alps were to 
 be seen. The Propylaea, a fine gateway in imitation of the one 
 at Athens, adorned with reliefs representing scenes in the 
 Greek war of independence, stands between the Glyptothek 
 and the Exhibition Building. 
 
 We paid our next visit to the Royal Palace. Strangers 
 assemble in the Salon Hercules without any Hercules, and wait 
 until 11 A. M. when a guide appears to conduct the party 
 through a labyrinth of gaudily decorated rooms and halls. 
 There was a large company, which continued to receive addi- 
 tions until the number exceeded one hundred, when the guard 
 appeared and was followed by the visitors, as a shepherd by a 
 flock of sheep. When he stopped we all stopped ; when lie 
 moved forward, we did the same ; he halted occasionally to 
 give explanations in German about the paintings and otlier 
 objects of mterest, all of which was, of course, very instructive 
 to us whose German vocabulary consisted of about a dozen words. 
 It seemed to us there was a lack of taste in the decorations of 
 the rooms ; too much gilding, porcelain, marble, or something
 
 94 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 of the sort. The royal bed was so bedecked with gilt that no 
 modern prince could have borne the weight ; it needed a stout 
 old Barbarossa, accustomed to heavy armor, to lie safely under 
 such a covering. One cabinet was decorated with porcelain 
 vases, arranged on brackets covering the walls ; another had 
 mural coverings of small pictures in gilt frames. In the 
 throne room there were twelve colossal gilt statues of the 
 kings of Bavaria, some of whom were very formidable looking 
 men. The frescos representing the Nibelungen by Schnorr, 
 were very fine and interesting to those versed in the great Ger- 
 man epic. The only part of our guide's explanations we could 
 understand was the names of the heroes and heroines, being 
 some acquainted with them from a translation. The royal 
 chapel displayed magnificent marbles, but the gaudy decora- 
 tions of the ceiling were not pleasing. 
 
 Leaving the palace, we walked through Ludwig Strasse, the 
 most noted street in Munich, where are a number of public 
 buildings, including the University, library, government build- 
 ings, palaces, and others. The Strasse is one hundred and fifty 
 feet wide and three fourths of a mile long, ending at the Sieges- 
 thor, or Gate of Victory, a kind of triumphal arch with a figure 
 representing Bavaria, in a chariot drawn by four lions, all in 
 bronze. The New Pinakothek is a gallery containing modern 
 paintings, and corresponds to the National Gallery of London ; 
 the works, on the whole, are among the best we have yet seen. 
 The Munich Gallery has a high reputation ; a large number of 
 the paintings are excellent. They have one marked feature : 
 the absence of nude figures, so conspicuous in Paris and some 
 other places. It will be necessary to make several examina- 
 tions before gaining a tolerable idea of this rich treasure of 
 art. Our next visit was made to some of the churches, in- 
 cluding the Theatines, in which are the Royal Vaults where 
 the Emperor Charles VII. is buried. 
 
 The Ludwigskirche, with its two towers two hundred and 
 thirty-four feet in height, offers an imposing exterior, while its 
 roof is very peculiar, being covered with mosaic work of bright 
 variegated tiles, giving it the appearance of being carpeted.
 
 GERyfANT. 05 
 
 The interior is quite plain compared with the Theatines, Ijiit it 
 contains the Last Jndgment, a fresco by Cornehus, sixty-six 
 feet by forty. The Frauenkirehe, or Church of Our Lady, is a 
 cathedral built of brick, in 14G8, and has towers tln-ee Imndred 
 and fifty-seven feet in heiglit. The monument of the Emperor 
 Louis, who died in 1347, made of dark marble and adorned 
 with bronze figures, stands in the nave. The Church of St. 
 Michael contains a monument by Thorwaldsen, erected to 
 Eugene Beauharnais. These churches are in the Roman es(jue 
 style of architecture. The latter has a high altar reaching to 
 the top of the vaulting, and profusely decorated with gilt and 
 other showy ornaments. There is a want of taste in such 
 exhibitions, and one becomes weary of the display of gold, sil- 
 ver, jewels, wax images, shrines and drapery, all embellished 
 with a profusion of decorations. In the Church of the Thea- 
 tines, what is claimed to be the skeleton of St. Gregory, all 
 covered with jewels, is exposed to the gaze of the multitude, 
 in one of the chapels. 
 
 The Old Pinakothek contains more than one tliousand four 
 hundred paintings of the old masters, arranged chronologically, 
 according to the schools; as German, French, Dutch, Italian, 
 etc., with one saloon appropriated to Rubens. Among the 
 paintings in this gallery are the Last Judgment, the jNIassacre 
 of the Innocents, and the Lion Hunt. The Museum contains 
 cabinets of engravings, drawings, and one thousand three hun- 
 dred specimens of antique vases in terra cotta, including Etrus- 
 can, Greek, Sicilian, and Italian. On the south side of tlie 
 Pinakothek is a Loggie or Arcade, with frescos by Cornelius 
 representing the history of painting in the Middle Ages. 
 
 The glass-works of Munich have a celebrity, therefore they 
 must be seen ; but it was with some difficulty that we reached 
 them. We enofacfed a coachman to take us to the establish- 
 ment; but as the distance was considerable, he probably thouglit 
 it a "smart" thing to leave his passengers at the small private 
 shop of a glass-worker, not more than half way to the painted 
 glass-works. He received his fee and drove off, congiatulat- 
 ing himself, no doubt, on his good fortune, while we, on learn-
 
 96 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 m<y the facts, were much perplexed to find our way thither; but 
 after making fruitless inquiries, a man, seeing our dilemma, 
 veiy kindly offered to conduct us to the place ; and though he 
 went out of his way, he would receive no compensation for his 
 services. We were greatly pleased with the beautiful speci- 
 mens shown us, and learned the difference between stained 
 glass and painted glass. The former is colored with the shad- 
 ing only painted on it, while the latter has all the figures 
 painted. AVe next visited the bronze-works, and saw the plas- 
 ter casts, some of them being of colossal size. There were a 
 number of American subjects, among them the statues of 
 Webster, Clay, Benton, Peabody, and others, and the casts 
 of the bronze doors of the Capitol at Washington. One of 
 the most interesting subjects was a winged goddess by Rogers 
 intended for Hartford, said our guide. We were conducted 
 into the forge ; but as he spoke in German, we could not 
 understand his explanations. 
 
 In the afternoon we took a walk through Maximilian 
 Strasse, one of the fine streets of Munich, adorned with sev- 
 eral statues, including that of Maximilian II., cut in dark 
 stone. We crossed the rapid Iser, which has been appropri- 
 ately called " swift flowing," and entered the Maximilianeum, 
 an educational institution founded by the Emperor Max ; a 
 fine view of the city was obtained from the corridor. Some 
 of the other interesting places visited were the Basilica, with 
 sixty-six marble columns supporting arches covered with fres- 
 cos, and a pulpit made of different kinds of wood ; the Crystal 
 Palace, and the Botanical Gardens. The Bavarian National 
 Museum contains a large collection of various objects illus- 
 trating the progress of art and civilization, and the Bavarian 
 Historical Gallery has a series of frescos rej)resenting the 
 history of Bavaria. 
 
 September 25 we left Munich for Leipsic, a journey requir- 
 ing the time from 7.30 A. M. to 8.30 p. m., a tedious day, 
 since we saw but little that interested us, except the ancient 
 town of Ratisbon or Regensburg, with its Cathedral. Our 
 company comprised several German ladies, whose conversation,
 
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 GERMANY. 97 
 
 no doubt, would have been instructive had we understood 
 their language. The confusion of tongues might have had its 
 advantages, but it is a misfortune to the modern traveller, 
 who is not a polyglot. Leipsic, an ancient town, dating from 
 the beginning of the eleventh century, is considered one of the 
 most important commercial towns of Gennany, and is distin- 
 guished for its book trade, its fairs, and university. We were 
 fortunate to arrive in the city during one of these fairs, which 
 have been held annually, and sometimes two or three times a 
 year, since 1180. On such occasions a large number of stran- 
 gers, including foreigners, as well as Germans, from thirty 
 thousand to forty thousand, come to the city to attend these 
 exhibitions. The public squares and portions of the broad 
 streets are furnished with booths, where all kinds of mer- 
 chandise are sold. They form a small town of themselves, 
 being arranged like the streets of a city, thus affording 
 easy access to these movable warehouses. Both men and 
 women superintend the stalls, and offer their goods to cus- 
 tomers. These fairs afford the traveller an excellent oppor- 
 tunity for studying the different ways and costumes of the 
 peasants and villagers, and they are profitable to hotel-keep- 
 ers, who charge one-half or one-third more than the usual 
 rates, as long as they continue. 
 
 Wishing to purchase a book, after some inquiry, we found a 
 place where they were for sale ; and pending negotiations, dur- 
 ing which the trader's German and our p:nglish became 
 strangely blended, a gentleman stepped forward and i^olitely 
 offered his assistance ; he proved to be one of our own country- 
 men and a student of the University of Leipsic. After ar- 
 ranging the bargain with the German, he conducted us to this 
 institution of learning, and showed us some of the rooms used 
 for lectures. They were exceedingly plain, and even rough 
 looking, with deep carvings made in the desks, proving that 
 the use of the jack-knife is not confined to Yankee boys. As 
 it was vacation, the cabinets, much to our regret, were inac- 
 cessible to visitors ; therefore we made a visit to the Museum, 
 instituted in 1837, which contains mostly the works of mod-
 
 98 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 ern artists. It has very little statuaiy, but some of the paint- 
 ings are fine; one of Napoleon, at Fontainebleau, 1814, by 
 Delaroche, is perhaps the best. Among the artists whose 
 works are represented are Murillo, Sassoferrato, Zimmermann, 
 Schrader, Lessing, and Overbeck. An extensive collection of 
 engravings occupies nine rooms. 
 
 The streets and buildings of the more densely crowded parts 
 of the town appear to be veiy ancient, carrying back the imagi- 
 nation to the early period of the city ; but Leipsic lives in 
 modern history as the scene of one of the most sanguinary and 
 prolonged struggles on record. The battle fought October, 
 1813, between the French forces, numbering about one 
 hundred and fifty thousand men, and the Allies, with three 
 hundred thousand, lasted four days. During the conflict 
 the Polish general, Poniatowski, was drowned in attempting 
 to cross the Elster, which runs through the city. 
 
 September 27 we started early for Berlin ; the weather was 
 cold and disagreeable, and the region through which we jour- 
 neyed, flat and uninteresting. In passing from Switzerland 
 and Northern Italy to Germany, one perceives a great change 
 in natural scenery : from grand and lofty mountains to level 
 and monotonous tracts of land ; but this is not all the difference 
 perceptible to the tourist. He observes in the former countries 
 mean, dilapidated dwellings, dirty, narrow streets, and numer- 
 ous beggars, while in the latter there are indications of thrift ; 
 the people seem industrious and energetic, and we did not 
 see any beggars among them. 
 
 The Swiss are from necessity industrious, for nothing less 
 than constant diligence could gain a livelihood from their 
 mountainous country, and it is surprising in what inhospitable 
 regions their dwellings are found ; sometimes clinging to 
 the sides of steep acclivities or planted in some deep ravine, 
 unvisited by the rays of the sun for the greater part of the 
 year, as in the Splugen Pass ; yet these hardy mountaineers live, 
 by some means, among the rocks and glaciers of the Alps. 
 Here men, women, and children are inured to hard labor ; it is 
 painful to see what burdens they carry on their backs, and what
 
 GEn}fAyy. 99 
 
 toils tliey endure, especially the women and children. One can 
 excuse the persistence with which they solicit the traveller to 
 purchase their wares. 
 
 We arrived in Berlin about one o'clock, and went to the 
 Hotel de 1' Europe, Tauben Strasse, a very favorable location 
 for seeing the most interesting objects of the city. Having 
 rested from our journey, we walked to the west end of the 
 famous Unter den Linden (under the lindens) to tlie iirandcn- 
 buro- Gate. This street is one hundred and sixty-five feet wide 
 and comprises five different streets or passage-ways, a broad 
 driveway in the centre, and two narrow walks on each side 
 separated by rows of linden trees. These trees are small but 
 beautiful rather than majestic. 
 
 Beyond the Brandenburg Gate stands the Monument to 
 Victory, one hundred and ninety-eight feet high, made of 
 granite and bronze. It was inaugurated in 1873, to commemo- 
 rate Prussian victories in the late wai-s, and the restoration of 
 the German Empire. It is a very imposing memorial, even in 
 Berlin, where monuments and statues are decidedly in vogue. 
 Near the gate is a large and beautiful park called the Tiiier- 
 garten. The Museums of Berlin are in the vicinity of the 
 royal palaces. The Old Museum, two hundred and eighty- 
 two feet in length and eighty-four in width, is in the 
 Greek style, with eighteen Ionic columns; the central 
 part is adorned with four groups in bronze, while stat- 
 ues and frescos decorate the vestibule, and eighteen an- 
 cient statues, the rotunda. The Museum contains also casts of 
 ancient sculptures found on the site of the national shrine at 
 Olympia, discovered in 1875, by explorations made at the 
 expense of the German government. The upper walls of the 
 rotunda are hung with tapestries woven at Arras, for Henry 
 VIII., from designs by Raphael, copied from the tapestries of 
 the Vatican, and similar to those at Dresden. These Berlin 
 tapestries, after passing through the hands of different owners, 
 were finally purchased by Frederick William IV. There were 
 originally ten in number, but one is lost ; they represent Script- 
 ure scenes.
 
 100 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 The Assyrian sculptures of the rotunda obtained from the 
 palaces of Calah and Nineveh, erected about 900 and 750 B. C, 
 are of alabaster and represent battles, hunting scenes, etc. 
 The antiquarian department contains many valuable engraved 
 gems, comprising a cameo in agate representing the Apo- 
 theosis of Septimius Severus, and is one of the largest known, 
 being nine inches by seven and one half ; another cameo bears 
 the representation of the Judgment of Paris. In the same 
 room is kept the " Silver Treasure," found at Hildesheim, con- 
 sisting of Roman works of the time of Augustus. The Cabinet 
 of Coins includes ancient, mediseval, and modern specimens. 
 There are more than fifty thousand antiques, while the mediae- 
 val and modern do not fall below in numbers. 
 
 The next day after our visit to the Museum we devoted to 
 one of the numerous residences of the sovereigns, — the Royal 
 Palace, — an immense edifice, five hundred and fifty-two feet 
 long, three hundred and eighty-four wide, with six hundred 
 apartments, but only a small number of these rooms are open 
 to the public. The building was constructed by the Elector 
 Frederick II., but improvements were made by several of his 
 successors. The emperor, when in Berlin, occupies another 
 palace, near this one, of smaller size. 
 
 The manner of going over a Royal Palace is attended with 
 some formalities, like the following: Visitors, after paying 
 the customary fee and receiving a ticket of admission, assemble 
 in one of the vestibules and wait for the guide, who makes his 
 appearance at 11 A. M. He then conducts the party up an 
 inclined plane paved with brick, instead of ascending by flights 
 of stairs. We then enter a long hall which contains nothing 
 of much interest, where we halt, and the guide opens a box 
 containing felt slippers and proceeds to supply each member 
 of the party with a pair to be worn over the boots ; they are 
 all the same size and large enough for skates. We thought if 
 these slippers represented the typical German foot, there was 
 little to fear for the perpetuity of a nation with so broad foun- 
 dations. The only way we could keep our slippers on our feet 
 was to slide over the floor, which consisted of wood so highly
 
 
 y, 
 
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 _ q: 
 Z 00 
 - z
 
 GERMANY. 101 
 
 polished as to be smooth as ghass. It was impossible to 
 understand how the children in our i)arty mana<,nj(l their pedal 
 covering's. 
 
 After being properly shod we were conducted through a 
 suite of richly decorated rooms, so overloaded with ornamenta 
 in gold, silver, and marble that but little definite idea could be 
 retained of such ostentatious display, which may be necessary 
 for royalty ; but for ourselves we prefer the simplicity of 
 Republican institutions. The Ritter-Saal or Throne Room 
 abounds in articles made of the precious metals ; the throne is 
 of wrought silver. In this room there is a massive silver 
 column, eight feet in height, presented to the emperor in 1807, 
 by the army and navy officers, while another apartment con- 
 tains pure white columns with silver bases and capitals. The 
 Konigo-Saal contains full-length portraits of the kings of Prussia, 
 and the White Saloon holds the marble statues of the twelve 
 Electors of Brandenburg, a statue of Victory, statues repre- 
 senting eight provinces of Prussia ; while statues of Justinian, 
 Constantine, Charlemagne and Rudolph II. occupy the stair- 
 case. The picture galleiy of the palace includes paintings 
 representing King William at the battle of Sadowa ; the Coro- 
 nation of the king in 1861, and King William presenting the 
 crown prince with the Order of Merit, after the battle of 
 Sadowa. The floors of the apartments are in designs of 
 marquetry. 
 
 After completing the tour of the palace we cast off our 
 slippers, to be gathered up by the guide, and ascended to the 
 Palace Chapel, which was covered with frescos ; the altar was 
 made of yellow and white alabaster, the reading desks of white 
 Carrara marble, and a gilt crucifix was set with gems. 
 
 This palace has a ghost story connected with its history. It 
 is said that the spectre of the White Lady haunts the palaces 
 of Baireuth and Berlin, at certain times, as a forewarner of the 
 death of one of the royal house ; that this is the ghost of the 
 Countess Agnes, who had committed a foul murder, that of lier 
 two children. The last time the spectre made its ai)pearance at 
 Berlin was in 1840, the same year in which Frederick William 
 III. died.
 
 102 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 The Rathaus is an imposing building of red brick, and 
 forms a conspicuous object among others, of light-colored stone. 
 It is in the Gothic style with some traces of the Italian, and 
 has a tower two hundred and seventy-six feet high. The 
 interior corresponds in architectural display to the exterior. 
 The Fest-saal, with its coffered ceiling, carved oak doors, and 
 beautiful marble columns, the Library, the Town Council 
 Chamber, and the Magistrate's Saloon, are all richly and appro- 
 priately fitted up. 
 
 We had some difficulty in getting access to the mineral col- 
 lection of the University. The custodian was at dinner, and did 
 not wish to be disturbed, but finally opened the Museum, insist- 
 ing on closing it after a short time. Consequently we were hur- 
 ried through the numerous cabinets, greatly to our disappoint- 
 ment, since the collection is said to be the most extensive on 
 the continent. It is certainly very large and contains remark- 
 ably fine specimens, notably a piece of amber from the region 
 of the Baltic which was said to weigh fourteen pounds. There 
 were some fine specimens of gems and a large variety of 
 marbles, but we were not able to examine the rocks, fossils, 
 and other geological collections. The columns of the Museum 
 were made of a beautiful kind of marble, with a white ground 
 sometimes shading into a soft yellow tint, intersected by veins 
 of black. The churches of Berlin are far inferior to the other 
 public buildings ; some of them are constructed in a peculiar 
 manner. The entrance is by a sort of " back door," through a 
 long, dark vestibule separated from the nave by a row of short, 
 clumsy columns, while the ceiling is vaulted ; but there was 
 little decoration compared with the churches we had seen, 
 even in the Cathedral. 
 
 The National Gallery, containing the paintings of modern 
 artists, is enclosed by an unfinished colonnade of Corinthian 
 columns, and was originally intended to form the centre of an 
 extensive building for all the art institutions of Berlin. It 
 was opened in 1876, and contained at the time of our visit 
 nearly four hundred paintings, several cartoons, and a few 
 sculptures. Many of these paintings are highly finished, and
 
 GERMANY. 103 
 
 show perfect fidelity to nature. The grand cartoons of Cor- 
 nelius, occupying two large saloons, represent allegorical or 
 mythological subjects. In one room, Grace, Peace, Poesy, 
 Investigation, Humility, Enthusiasm, Strength, and Joy are 
 symbolized, while the cartoons of tliis celebrated fresco painter 
 illustrate the Christian Doctrine, pertaining to sin, death, and 
 redemption, intended for the Campo Santo, in imitation of that 
 at Pisa. 
 
 No one can understand German social life without visiting 
 a biergarten ; therefore being invited by a fellow-country- 
 man, we ventured to enter one. The building was very large, 
 and could accommodate at one time probably fiom twelve 
 to fifteen hundred persons. We passed through a kind 
 of arcade into a long hall with tables for six or eight 
 persons each, filling all the space except narrow aisles for 
 passage. As we entered, cigar smoke was so dense that at 
 first thought we supposed the building was on fire. Germans 
 are the most persistent smokers in the world ; they smoke in 
 all places, even at the table, without any regard to the guests. 
 Parties of friends and acquaintances were assembled around 
 the small table, taking their lunch of bread and ham. Often 
 whole families, babies and all, visit these places of resort, while 
 at the end of the hall is a music-stand, where a band plays for 
 their entertainment. The people are very social, but the talk- 
 ing, music, and smoke rendered a prolonged visit undesiralile, 
 though the respectable classes of natives frequent the bier- 
 garten. The customs of nations offer an interesting study to 
 the traveller, and it is necessary to be brought in contact with 
 other people to avoid narrowness and intolerance. The Ger- 
 mans are an energetic, progressive, and intellectual people, but 
 in some things they would be considered wanting in refinement 
 of manners. 
 
 October 1 we started out in ([uest of adventures, like a 
 knight-errant, and, fortunately, found new objects to Ije inves- 
 tigated ; the first being the National Bank, a brick building of 
 imposing appearance. We passed through a vestilnile, as- 
 cended a fliglit of marble steps, and entered a kind of recoi>-
 
 104 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 tion room of elegant finish, with walls of different kinds of 
 marble, and spacious marble staircases on either side. Beyond, 
 in the apse of the building, is a large room for bank business. 
 Leaving this building we started for the Jewish Synagogue, 
 and met on the way one of the guests of the hotel where we 
 stopped, who joined us for the same purpose. Near the Syna- 
 gogue is the garden of the Royal Chateau of Monbijou, 
 erected for Queen Sophia Dorothea, consort of Frederick Wil- 
 liam I., but the grounds bore the appearance of neglect. The 
 Jewish place of worship, built of different-colored brick, is 318 
 feet in length, in the interior, and 93 in width, finished in 
 the Alhambra or Saracenic style, and has three domes, of which 
 the highest is 165 feet. The building is entered by three 
 elegant bronze doors, separated by columns of green granite. 
 After passing through the smaller synagogue, we entered the 
 beautiful inner temple, which will seat 10,000 people. On the 
 ground floor are the seats for the men, while the women 
 occupy the galleries. The ornaments, in the Moresque style, 
 are very delicate and elaborate, and the colors are of subdued 
 tints ; there are no violent contrasts, nothing gaudy, the 
 stained glass windows are simple and elegant in design. The 
 apse, containing a structure with a dome, to hold the " Ark of 
 the Covenant," is an interesting study of beautiful designs; 
 and here the Sacred Scriptures, that is, the Old Testament, are 
 kept. Gentile visitors are not permitted to enter the holy 
 place. The entire structure affords, with its slender columns 
 and peculiar capitals and arches, a study of the Moorish style 
 of architecture. There are many Jews in Berlin, ten thou- 
 sand, said our bright-eyed Hebrew maiden guide. 
 
 Our next visit was to the Reichstag, a building for the use 
 of the lower branch of parliament, which was quite plain. The 
 only thing especially interesting was the seat of Prince Bis- 
 marck when he was a member. Leaving the Reichstag, we 
 engaged a carriage and drove to the Thiergarten, which be- 
 gins just outside the Brandenburg Gate, and is about two 
 miles in length and three fourths in width. The trees, though 
 not large, are so close together that they form quite a dense
 
 L 
 
 t. 
 
 
 
 QD 

 
 GERMANY. 105 
 
 thicket, while carriage-drives cross it in every direction, with 
 here and there a small opening, a statue, a plot of llowei-s, or 
 a small lake. Following these paths, allured by their attrac- 
 tions, we sauntered on until we became weary, and were glad 
 to find the gate by which we entered. The Industrial Mu- 
 seum contains a collection of antique and modern productions, 
 from different countries, embracing plastic works, in wood, 
 stone, etc., such as sculpture, wood carving, furniture inlaid 
 with different woods and ivory ; and in the department of 
 ceramics were majolica and porcelains of different kinds, as 
 Sevres, Minton, Copeland, Berlin, Meissen, and Bohemian ; 
 glass of various kinds, woven fabrics, embroideries, tapestries, 
 metal-work in gold, silver, bronze, and iron, enamels, mosaics, 
 etc. One room contains the Liineburg Collection of silver 
 and silver-gilt plate purchased for 220,000 thalers. A brief 
 summary gives some veiy rich and beautiful specimens of an- 
 tique and modern art, rich furnitures, shrines, coffers, boxes, 
 etc., while the exquisitely delicate engraving on glass was of 
 modern workmanship. 
 
 The Panopticum, or Wax Statuary, was on exhibition in the 
 Kaiser Gallery, a very beautiful arcade covered with glass, 
 similar to the one at Milan, and containing shops and restau- 
 rants. The largest hall of statues is very rich in gilt orna- 
 ments, painted glass windows, and other decorations. The 
 collection comprises a large number of wax statues, life size, of 
 diijtinguished Prussians, including the emperor. Others repre- 
 sented persons and scenes that inspired disgust, and were 
 very repulsive. The collection is larger and more varied than 
 Madam 1 ussaud's of London, but in some rooms less pleasing. 
 We did not see the "Chamber of Horrors," in the London 
 Collection. 
 
 A visitor to Berlin should make a pilgrimage to Sans Souci, 
 with which so many historical memories are associated. Pots- 
 dam, where it is located, is on an island in the River Havel, 
 about seventeen miles from Berlin, and has a population of 
 about forty-five thousand. Besides tlie Palace of Sans Souci, 
 it contains the Royal Palace and the New Palace. The Old or
 
 106 PLEASANT MEMOBIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 Royal Palace is near the Lustgarten, which is enclosed on 
 one side by two rows of columns, and contains several bronze 
 busts of celebrated generals, and many articles used by 
 Frederick the Great, preserved in their original condition. At 
 some distance from the palace is the Friedenskirche, or Church 
 of Peace, built in the style of the early Christian basilica. 
 The church occupies a quadrangle, with arcades containing 
 some statuary. In the atrium, peculiar to basilicas, are groups 
 of statues; on one side a Pieta by Reetschel, on the other 
 Ranch's group of Moses supported by Aaron and Hur, while 
 in the centre is the Risen Christ, by Thorwaldsen. Sixteen 
 columns of black marble support galleries, while in front of 
 the chancel are the tombs of Frederick IV., who died in 1861, 
 and Queen Elizabeth, who died in 1873 ; and before these 
 shrines there is an angel sculptured by Tenerani, of Rome. 
 The altar is supported by four very beautiful columns of 
 green jasper, highly polished, the gift of the Russian emperor. 
 The walls of the apse consisted of variegated marble and the 
 vaulting of mosaic-work, while the pulpit and reading-desk 
 were of white Carrara marble. 
 
 The Palace of Sans Souci, built by Frederick the Great, as a 
 place of retirement from the cares of state, is a one-story build- 
 ing standing on an eminence approached by a series of steps. 
 The side of the hill is broken into terraces, covered with shrubs 
 and flowers, and in front of the palace is a large fountain, with 
 smaller ones on both sides. 
 
 The picture gallery connected with the palace is richly 
 decorated with marble and gilding, and the walls are covered 
 with paintings, but some of the best works have been trans- 
 ferred to the museums of Berlin. Many of the rooms of Sans 
 Souci are precisely as Frederick left them ; and the clock on the 
 bureau, which suddenly stopped at the moment he breathed 
 his last, twenty minutes past two o'clock, August 17, 1786, 
 has never run since. One of the apartments called Voltaire's, 
 because he once occupied it, is decorated in a peculiar manner. 
 The walls and ceilhigs are covered with stucco, painted to 
 represent fruits and flowers, looking very much like natural 
 productions.
 
 GERMANY. 107 
 
 Groves, gardens, terraces, trees, shrubs, flowers, statues, and 
 fountains diversify the sceneiy about Sans Souci. Tlie grounds 
 about the Orangery, a building nine hundred and ninety feet 
 in length, are very delightt'ul. Ceres and Flora and a copy of 
 the Farnese Bull occupy places on the terrace, while the 
 interior of the Orangery is decorated with paintings and 
 statuary — some copies, others, original. The New Palace, built 
 by Frederick the Great, is situated at the end of an avenue a 
 little more than a mile from Sans Souci, apart from other build- 
 ings, except those occupied by soldiers. It was erected at the 
 close of the Seven Years' War in 17G3, and contains two hun- 
 dred apartments. One room is so unique it deserves special 
 notice. It is called the Grotto Saloon, and is inlaid with 
 shells arranged in different patterns. A frieze running entirely 
 around the room contains minerals and gems, affording a 
 novel cabinet; a large chandelier made entirely of rock crystal 
 hangs in one of the apartments. What is called the Marble 
 Saloon is a hundred feet long. The costly splendor of palaces, 
 interesting to the traveller, teaches the citizen of a republic 
 this lesson : royal power and prestige are largely maintained 
 by pomp and splendor, glittering equipage, magnificent palaces, 
 the richness of royal surroundings, and a train of liveried 
 dependents. Men are fascinated by such displays, and will 
 cheerfully submit to be taxed to support them. After a day 
 spent at Potsdam, a place long to be remembered, we returned 
 to Berlin, to resume our sight-seeing in this fine city, which 
 has been called by some one the "Paris of the North." 
 
 The next day being rainy induced us to make another visit 
 to the Museum. Many of the statues and other sculptures in 
 the Old Museum are copies of the antiques, though a good 
 number are original. It has been said that one of the best works 
 in the collection is the statue of a boy which was found in the 
 Tiber, and purchased by Frederick the Great for ten thousand 
 thalers, or about seventy-five hundred dollars. Art in the 
 Roman period had declined, and one sees illustrations of the fact 
 in the Roman Hall of the Museum. The Greeks made their 
 statues ideal ; the Romans copied more from nature, with too
 
 108 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 strict fidelity to truth. In their representations of distin- 
 guished men, they expressed the baser passions by which they 
 were swayed, and consequently their countenances were some- 
 times very repulsive ; while the Greeks, on the contrary, always 
 sensitive to the beauty of form, made their heroes, however 
 impelled by passion, preserve the graceful outlines of a calm and 
 self-restrained expression. The parti-colored statues, are in our 
 estimation, wanting in taste. There is no material so appro- 
 priate for sculpturing the human form as the pure, white 
 marble; and though the Greeks, the unrivalled masters of the 
 chisel, did sometimes employ other materials, as gold, ivory, 
 and bronze, yet the best of their works that have been pre- 
 served are in marble. 
 
 We again examined some of the paintings of the earlier 
 school, and find but little variety in the subject — generally 
 Madonnas or some other Scripture character or event ; but there 
 is a devout, reverential spirit pervading these pictures, which 
 appeals to the religious element in human nature, notwith- 
 standing the grotesque that is sometimes apparent. Very few 
 of the Madonnas yet seen — not all Italian works have to this 
 time been examined — are satisfactory. It seems to us that 
 the artists failed, generally, in their conceptions of the child 
 Christ, as well as the Clnist of riper years ; but when they 
 attempted to represent the Father, a purely spiritual Being, in 
 the form of an earthly potentate, with the usual insignia of 
 regal state, it seems presumptuous and repugnant to a feeling 
 of reverence. Some of these sacred paintings are ludicrous 
 from the peculiar association of ideas. For instance, while 
 Mary and other personages are enraptured with the infant 
 Redeemer, half a dozen cherubs in gay clothing and with pink, 
 yellow, and green wings, like those of a parrot, are perched on 
 the ridge-pole of a thatched cottage — one angel was actually 
 crawling out of the window, like a burglar. In another 
 instance, so little regard was paid to the symmetry of the 
 human form, the figure of the Madonna was so tall that, when 
 seated, she appeared like a person standing back of her own lap. 
 The " Glory " with which the old masters were accustomed to
 
 GERM A XV. 109 
 
 represent the saints appeared, in these pictures, ahnost precisely 
 like a gold plate at one side of their heads, but it was impos- 
 sible to understand how it was held in that position. One sees 
 the conventional red dress and blue mantle of the Madoniiits of 
 the different masters. The decided and bright cohji-s, a want 
 of softening by graduated tints, and the blending of iiihaniio- 
 nious hues seemed to us too conspicuous to produce a pleas- 
 ing effect. 
 
 The Zoological Gardens, just outside the Thiergarten, are 
 
 worth a visit. The buildings for the animals are well adapted 
 
 to their use, while some of them are really fiue, especially the 
 
 Elephants' House, a large structure of different colored bricks, 
 
 arranged in mosaic-work, with domes, and an enclosure for the 
 
 elephants to exercise in the open air. There were two of these 
 
 animals ; the male, a fine large specimen, had evidently been 
 
 well trained in his manners, for he veiy politely bowed to the 
 
 guests, especially when they gave him cakes and apples. He 
 
 had, no doubt, been taught to dance, and seemed very fond of 
 
 the pastime ; while his female companion, in the opposite part 
 
 of the hall, was equally fond of being fed ; but if her visitors 
 
 did not gratify her tastes, she would strike at them through 
 
 the bars of her apartment. The lions and other animals were 
 
 fine examples of their species ; some of the birds were very 
 
 rare and exceedingly beautiful ; the collection of doves was 
 
 especially so. The Berlin collection of animals i.s, in some 
 
 respects, superior to those of London and Paris. 
 
 Berlin is a beautiful city ; the streets are broad, the buildings 
 fine, and some are elegant. For a city that contains one mil- 
 lion or more inhabitants, there were two very noticeable 
 features : the absence of foreigners and, apparently, of poverty. 
 We have not visited a place where the citizens are so well 
 dressed, taken as a whole, while there is an appearance of taste, 
 neatness, and refinement about almost everything material. 
 The soldiers are among the finest in appearance, and the best 
 drilled in Europe, — if any fault is to be found with them, it 
 is want of courtesy to private citizens, — and nearly all officials 
 about railway stations, the police, etc., inspire one with confi-
 
 110 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 dence in their capacity, and respect for their manners ; the 
 attendants at hotels are polite and obliging. It is said the 
 inhabitants of Berlin are proud of their city, and well they 
 may be, since it has many attractions. Our visit was very 
 pleasant^ and it was with regret we left the German capital for 
 other places. 
 
 Our journey to Dresden w^as through a level and monoto- 
 nous region, with httle of interest to engage the attention, 
 except the kind and agreeable German lady, our trav- 
 elling companion. After a ride of several hours, we 
 reached Dresden at five o'clock in the afternoou, and went 
 to Weber's Hotel, on the Ostra-Allee near the Zwinger. 
 The next day we visited some of the churches of the 
 city, as we were interested in church architecture. The 
 Roman Catholic Court Church, built in 1737, in what is called 
 the " baroque style," contains the royal vaults. The exterior, 
 profusely decorated by statues, has sixty-four of these repre- 
 senting saints on the parapets and about the entrance ; the 
 altar-piece, delineating the Ascension, was the work of Raphael 
 Men go ; this church is celebrated for its music. The Frauen- 
 kirche, or Church of Our Lady, has a lofty dome three hundred 
 and ten feet in height, while the Kreuzkirche, the largest in 
 Dresden, has a tower three hundred and forty-two feet high. 
 A Gothic church near the Zwinger is very imposing, with its 
 two towers and spires, its buttresses, and other appendages 
 peculiar to this style ; but the interior affords an instance of one 
 of the peculiarities of the churches of tliis country (perhaps 
 it is the only one of the kind), with galleries on one side and 
 the pulpit on the other. The seats, consisting of wood 
 benches, all face the pulpit ; while at the end opposite the main 
 entrance, the altar is placed, so that the hearers seem to be sit- 
 tincT sideways. The floor consisted of boards, without covering. 
 
 The Zwinger, begun in 1711, but not completed until more 
 than a century after, is a peculiar structure, consisting of six 
 pavilions connected by closed galleries of one story with gate- 
 ways. The building surrounds a court three hundred and 
 eighty-four by three hundred and fifty-one feet, in which are
 
 GERMANY. 1 ] ] 
 
 small fountains and plants, and a statue of Frederick Augus- 
 tus in bronze. The entire edifice is liiglily onuimented with 
 various kinds of decoration, like the »' rococo," so much in 
 vogue at one time; it has been called a lino illustration of the 
 baroque style. The Museum of the famous Dresden Galleiy 
 occupies one side of the Zwingcr. 
 
 On entering, the first object sought was the 8i.stine 
 Madonna, the sole occupant of one of the rooms. It would be 
 presumptuous to express an opinion of this famous picture by 
 the prince of painters, as its reputation is established wherever 
 art is known ; but for us it would be far easier to study it were 
 all the figures removed except the mother and child. 
 
 As our visits must be frequent to the Dresden Gallery, in the 
 meantime we went to the Johanneum Museum, and the collec- 
 tion of porcelain, wdiich comprises about fifteen thousand spec- 
 imens of Chinese, Japanese, East Indian, Persian, French, and 
 Dresden wares. The Chinese collection was very large and 
 varied. The Saxon ware generally passes under the name of 
 Dresden, which was not made here, but at Meissen, where the 
 Royal Porcelain Manufactory, which employs six hundred 
 workmen, is situated. It was founded in 1710, soon after the 
 discovery of making porcelain, by BiJttcher. Some of the 
 specimens consisted of groups of statuary, while two others were 
 rose trees growing in flower pots. The entire trees, stems, 
 buds, and blossoms were of porcelain in the natural colors of 
 the plant. Imitations of almost every object in nature, and 
 some having no natural existence, are seen here. 
 
 One of the most remarkable specimens was the lace mantle 
 covering a female bust ; the imitation of the embroidery, its 
 meshes and folds, was truly marvellous ; Japanese, French, and 
 Italian works were conspicuous. 
 
 The Historical Museum contains a veiy interesting collection 
 of armor ; weapons of different kinds, cabinets, mounted 
 knights with horses richly caparisoned, costumes of princes, etc. 
 Some of the swords, pistols, guns, and other weapons were 
 richly decorated with jewels and inlaid with ivory, and other 
 materials. Cups, drinking-horns ornamented with gold and
 
 112 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 silver, a goblet and sword which had belonged to Luther, 
 a chessboard, with pieces containing the representation of the 
 head of some warrior in relief, were among the numerous 
 objects of curiosity. We entered a room where armored 
 knights were mounted for the tournament, and two with lances 
 in rest were ready for a tilt. Armor for the Saxon princes, and 
 the princes themselves in gala suits, mounted on richly 
 caparisoned horses, represented the customs of the past. 
 The Pistol Chamber contained specimens of the fire- 
 arms of the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, includ- 
 ing those of Charles XII., of Sweden, of Gustavus 
 Adolphus, and Louis XIV., of France. Another saloon 
 was a repository for weapons used in " The Thirty Years' 
 War" and the batons of Pappenheim and Tilly. In the 
 Saddle Room were displayed the figures of the horses belonging 
 to the Saxon kings, with jewelled trappings, and jewelled 
 shields, hemlets, and other armor. From these we learn some- 
 thing of the physical strength of the warriors of those times. 
 It seems incredible that men could wear so heavy armor and 
 carry such weapons at all, to say nothing of their wielding 
 them in battle, when riding at full speed. The poles of their 
 lances appeared to be at least fifteen feet in length. Little 
 princes not more than ten[years old were dressed in full armor, 
 showing how early they were trained in these military 
 exercises. 
 
 We made another visit to the Picture Gallery. Painting, 
 like poetry, must be studied, in order to be appreciated. There 
 are some pictures that fascinate us by their power over the 
 imagination ; we seem entranced when beholding them, and are 
 oblivious to all things else, and live in a world of thought and 
 feeling. In such a wilderness of paintings it is best to select a 
 few for special study ; for ourselves, beside the Sistine Madonna, 
 before mentioned, we chose the Madonna of Holbein, Correg- 
 gio's Adoration of the Shepherds, and his Mary Magdalene, the 
 Marriage at Cana, and the Adoration of the Magi, by Paul 
 Veronese, Ecce Homo, by Guido Rene, Tribute Money, by 
 Titian, Landscapes by Poussin and Claude Lorrain. Besides
 
 GERMANY. \ ] 3 
 
 those just mentioned, were the works by tlie Dutcli School of 
 painters, wliose fidelity to nature is remarkable. Ainon^r these, 
 are Teniers, lluysdael, Wouvernmns, Cuyp, Diirer, Kubens, 
 Van Dyck, and Rembrandt, and of the Spanish i):iintL-i-s, 
 Velasquez and Murillo. 
 
 The Green Vaults in the Royal Palace contain untold Iixms- 
 ures of jewels, plate, and costly works of art of different kinds 
 Here are seen numerous works in bronze, ivory, and carvino-, 
 many of them copies of ancient sculptures; some of the speci- 
 mens are set in silver and ornamented with gems. The Chim- 
 ney Room, 80 called from the wonderful chimney-piece occupying 
 the centre, is embellished with reliefs in porcelain, various kinds 
 of precious stones, and pearls. The specimens in amber were 
 very striking, comprising a cabinet of oak covered with mosaics 
 in this gem. The Silver Room comprises articles mostly in 
 silver, and the Hall of Precious Things contains articles 
 made of precious stones and rock crystal, and collections of 
 cameos and gems. Here are seen the largest enamelled work 
 known, thirty-four inches by eighteen, representing Mary 
 Magdalene; a bust of Diana in Derbyshire spar; two hundred 
 and fifty-four portraits engraved on gems ; a ball of rock crystal 
 twenty-two and one-half inches in circumference, and weighing 
 fifteen pounds ; the crystal goblet which had belonged to Martin 
 Luther ; a crystal drinking vessel ornamented with jewels valued 
 at five thousand dollars; a beautiful ebony cabinet with columns 
 and plates of rock crystal resembling the finest quality of ghiss, 
 and the wonderful golden egg. 
 
 The Wood or Armory Room contains places in the walls 
 for secreting the treasures of the Green Vaults in time of dan- 
 ger, while the panels are embossed with the escutcheons of old 
 Saxon provinces. A marvel of workmanship was seen in a 
 cherry-stone on w^hich was cut the figure of eighty human heads, 
 seen only through a powerful microscope, and was the work of 
 a sculptor of Niirnberg. This room contains the sceptres, 
 globes, and crowns richly ornamented witli gems, that were 
 used for the coronation of Augustus III. and his consort ; 
 though the precious stones had been removed and replaced by 
 paste jewels.
 
 114 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN 1 RAVEL. 
 
 The eighth and last room, painted in red and gold, comprised 
 the most costly articles of all the collection, — the treasury of 
 the Royal Saxon family. The crown jewels include diamonds 
 without number, of various colors, as pink, yellow, and the 
 celebrated green brilliant, besides colorless specimens, rubies, 
 emeralds, sapphires, and other gems ; they are sometimes called 
 the Polish Regalia. The green diamond is the gem par excel- 
 lence of these treasures and is remarkable for its rare color and 
 peculiar splendor. Its weight is only forty and one-half carats, 
 or one hundred and sixty grains, while the largest of the col- 
 lection weighs one hundred and ninety-four and one-half grains. 
 A fine ruby, weighing a little more than fifty-nine carats, a 
 Bohemian garnet said to be the largest in Europe, an onyx in 
 three colors, a rare specimen, six and two-thirds inches in length 
 and four and one-fourth in width, claimed to be the largest 
 known, belong to the Dresden collection. A group of one hun- 
 dred and thirty-two figures in gold and enamel re]Dresented 
 the celebration of the birth of an East Indian emperor, and 
 the statue of an African was covered with gems, but the most 
 grotesque objects were the models of two crocodiles completely 
 covered with diamonds. 
 
 A large number of specimens in the Green Vaults, though 
 exceedingly rich and exhibit great ingenuity in the workman- 
 ship, have no other value than to show what human skill and 
 ingenuity can accomplish, but at the same time they afford 
 proofs of misspent time and talents. They have no use or in- 
 trinsic beauty, and there is nothing noble in devoting years or 
 perhaps a lifetime to making such baubles. There is an incon- 
 gruity in the profuse employment of precious stones to ornament 
 worthless objects, while it degrades the most beautiful things 
 in nature to contemptible uses. Gems are intrinsically beauti- 
 ful and most to be admired when seen alone or as ornaments 
 to noble objects. 
 
 The Dresden Collection of Minerals includes a large num- 
 ber of native specimens ; some of the agates were the largest 
 we had ever seen, including one of variegated colors and 
 nearly three feet in diameter; varieties of quartz, beautiful
 
 GERMANY 115 
 
 ruin, shell, and dendritic marbles, some of them very uncom- 
 mon, and a peculiar specimen of transparent and iridescent 
 zinc blend. In the gem department, which was inferi(jr to 
 that of the Green Vault, were copies of some of the famous 
 diamonds of the world, notably a red Florentine and a blue 
 diamond of one hundred and thirty-nine and one-half carats, 
 which could not have been a copy of the " Hope " a much 
 smaller gem. A study of rocks and minerals is very interest- 
 ing as well as profitable to the naturalist, but one might think 
 it otherwise without some previous knowledge of geology and 
 mineralogy ; and the same is true in examining works of art 
 for which a preparation is important. The Collection of Casts 
 seen in Dresden are copies of some of the most celebrated 
 sculptures and are useful as studies. 
 
 We made several other visits to the Picture Gallery and at 
 each visit discovered new features to be studied and new beau- 
 ties to be admired. A wonderful art is painting, both in its 
 influence and its delineations. It has a two-fold power, form 
 and color, but there is a wide difference in pictures; some 
 enchant us, some merely please us, while others make no last- 
 ing impression or repel us. There are some specimens of 
 all these classes found in the Dresden Gallery as well as in 
 every other collection, but there are so many master-pieces 
 here, that the inferior or ordinary pictures are soon forgotten. 
 
 Dresden, the capital of the Kingdom of Saxony, fii-st came 
 into notice in 1206, and has been the residence of the sover- 
 eigns since the latter part of the fifteenth century. It was 
 greatly extended and embellished by Augustus II., and now has 
 a population of two hundred thousand or more. Ita beautiful 
 suburbs and magnificent gallery of paintings and other art 
 collections attract numerous visitors from all countries.
 
 116 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 From Dresden to Prague and Vienna. 
 
 October 13 we left Dresden, with its treasures of art, for 
 the ancient and memorable city of Prague or Praha, in Bohemia. 
 The route was very interesting, both on account of its fine scen- 
 ery, and its historical associations. The region through which 
 we passed has been called the " Saxon Switzerland." The rocks, 
 of a soft yellow sandstone, rise to a great height from the 
 Elbe, in the form of castles with towers and bastions. The 
 river is very sinuous in its course, but its graceful curves add 
 a charm to the landscape which is continually changing, while 
 occasionally an old castle is seen reposing upon a high and 
 precipitous cliff, which seems inaccessible to wingless crea- 
 tures. The Elbe is not a large river, while its waters are a 
 muddy green, at least in Bohemia. The foliage of the region 
 we passed through presented in its autumnal dress different 
 shades of yellow ; but there was an absence of the bright 
 reds, seen in the forests of the United States. The trees of 
 Germany are generally of small size compared with those of 
 some other countries. 
 
 The railway to Prague passes through, or near, several 
 places of historical interest, comprising the scene of the battle 
 of Dresden, fought in 1813, in which Moreau fell, and to 
 whom a monument is erected ; Pina, on the Elbe, captured by 
 the Swedes in 1639, and by the Prussians in 1758 ; Mt. Lilien- 
 stein, 1,293 feet in height, situated on a great bend of the 
 river, where Frederick the Great captured the Saxon army of 
 fourteen thousand men, and not far from here, was the battle-field 
 of Kulm where, August 30, 1813, the French forces, forty 
 thousand strong, surrendered to the Allies. Other places of
 
 PRAGUE AND VIENNA. 117 
 
 note were Aussig, tlie birth-place of the painter, Raphael Mfiii^rs ; 
 Labosity, wliere the first battle of the Seven Yeai-s' War was 
 fought, October, 1756 ; Randnitz, where Rienzi, the last of the 
 Tribunes, was imprisoned by Charles IV. in IS.V). As we 
 approached the city, the face of the countiy became less 
 rugged, and indeed seemed almost level. 
 
 Bohemia, named from the ancient Boii who emigrated from 
 Gaul in the second century B. C. and settled here, is a coun- 
 try around which cluster many interesting as well as tragical 
 associations. The early settlers were conquered by a king of 
 Moravia who introduced Christianity, and after his death it 
 was governed by the "Dukes of Prague " who subsequently 
 received the title of king. Prague, its ancient capital, was 
 founded by Libussa, the first Duchess of Bohemia, and is very 
 picturesquely situated on both sides of the Moldau, between 
 two hundred and three hundred miles north of Vienna. It is 
 distinguished for its imposing situation, its interesting build- 
 ings, towers, palaces, and cathedral, but more especially for 
 the part it has taken in the important events of history. The 
 city is nearly nine miles in circumference, and, at the present 
 time, has a mixed population, occupying four distinct sections. 
 One of these is devoted chiefly to the government oflices; an- 
 other, called the Hradschin, is distinguished by an extensive 
 imperial palace ; a third is known as the Jews' Quarter, with 
 its synagogues, churches, and schools, and lastly, what is des- 
 ignated " The New Town," with its streets, squares, and 
 places of public resort. The population comprises Bohemians, 
 Germans, and Hebrews, each speaking his native language, 
 while the types of the different nationalities are quite marked. 
 
 The Jewish quarter or Josephstadt was formerly occupied 
 by the Hebrews only, but later, a large number of the lower 
 class of Christians have resided here. One of the synagogues, 
 according to tradition, was founded by fugitives from Jeru- 
 salem, after its destruction by the Romans. The University of 
 Prague, founded in 1348, is the oldest of the German univer- 
 sities, and during its most flourishing days it received tliou- 
 sands of students from foreign countries, and still remains a
 
 118 PLEASANT MEMOBIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 well-endowed institution with various departments of study. 
 The Church of the Hussites of the fifteenth centurj', contains 
 the tombstone of Tycho Brahe, the Danish astronomer, and a 
 professor in the University of Prague, who died in 1601. This 
 city was the home of Jerome of Prague and the place where 
 John Iluss was educated, both distinguished reformers and 
 Christian martyrs ; and here, two centuries later, was decided 
 the fate of the Reformation in Bohemia by the battle of 
 White Hill. When in Constance we visited the Council 
 Chamber where Huss, sent thither under the safe conduct of 
 the Empeior, received his sentence and suffered death at the 
 stake, in 1415, and his friend Jerome suffered in the same 
 way the following year. 
 
 The Rathhaus recalls some of the terrible scenes of the Ref- 
 ormation, for, in front of this palace after the disastrous battle 
 of White Hill, twenty-seven of the Protestant leaders, mostly 
 Bohemian nobles, were executed, in 1621, and in the same 
 place, in 1633, eleven officers of high rank, in Wallenstein's 
 army, were executed for cowardice at the battle of Lutzen. A 
 column stands in the Grosse Ring, to commemorate the defence 
 of the city against the Swedes, in 1648, where the citizens on 
 pleasant evenings, often assemble to sing hymns. A bronze 
 statue of Charles IV., the founder of the University of Prague, 
 was erected in 1848, on the five-hundredth anniversary of that 
 institution. Numerous bridges span the River Moldau, one of 
 these, the Carlsbriicke, is sixteen hundred and twenty feet 
 in length, and is supported on sixteen arches, with defensive 
 towers at each end; the tower called the Aldstadt contains the 
 statues of the Emperor Charles VI., and his son Wenzel IV., 
 while the heads of Bohemian nobles executed in 1621 were 
 exposed to public view for ten years on this fortress. This 
 stronghold was maintained against the Swedes during a 
 bombardment of fourteen weeks, in 1648, and when the Prus- 
 sians assailed the city, the Carlsbriicke was the scene of the 
 fiercest struggle. During the uprising of 1848, the University 
 students seized the place, for the construction of their 
 strongest barricades. The buttresses of the bridge are covered
 
 PRAGUE AND VIENNA. 119 
 
 with thirty statues aud groups of saints ; a suspension bridge 
 across the INIohlau, fifteen hundred feet in length, is called 
 the Kaizer-Franz-Biuke. 
 
 Among the monuments of Prague are an equestrian statue of 
 the Emperor Francis I., seventy-five feet in heiglit, and the 
 Radetzky column, representing the Marshal with a haton and 
 flag, borne on a shield carried by eight soldiers. War has 
 always been tlie chief business of nations, if we are to judge by 
 their number of soldiers, the strength of their fortilications, 
 and other proofs of a hostile character. The heights about 
 Prague afford excellent facilities for defence, therefore, tliey 
 are covered with fortifications. From the terrace near the 
 Imperial Palace are obtained fine views of the city, with its 
 broad river spanned by numerous bridges, and of the range of 
 hills on both sides. 
 
 The Hradschiner Platz, a high eminence on the northwest 
 side of the river, might properly be called the citadel, which is 
 enclosed by several public buildings, as palaces and a cathe- 
 dral. The Burg or Imperial Palace, situated on the Platz, has 
 been the theatre of many important events, especially in the 
 Middle Ages. The Imperial Councillors were thrown from 
 the window in an upper story of the Council Chamber, by 
 order of Count Thun, which was the immediate occasion of the 
 Thirty Years' War. This palace was once occupied by the 
 Empress Maria Theresa. Near the Burg are the palaces of the 
 Archbishop and Count Sternberg; the latter contains a small 
 picture gallery of about three hundred and fifty paintings. 
 
 With some difficulty, we found the Palace of Wallenstein, 
 and, on the payment of twenty kreutzers, were admitted, but to 
 our disappointment, we saw only the Audience Chamber of the 
 redoubtable warrior, with its marble walls and beautiful doors ; 
 there was nothing else to be seen in this apartment. How- 
 ever, we saw the cabinet of the hero and a small room cont^iin- 
 ing the figure of a horse covered with the skin of the animal he 
 rode in battle ; the palace belongs to the present family of 
 Wallenstein. Many of the public buildings show signs of 
 neglect and decay.
 
 120 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 The Cathedral, begun in 1344, has a tower three hundred and 
 twenty-three feet high, while the nave contains the "Monument 
 of the Kings " where the Bohemian sovereigns were buried. 
 Each chapel has some monument, relic, or other memento of 
 the past ; but the most conspicuous object was the shrine of St. 
 John Nepomuc, made in 1763, of solid silver, with very elabor- 
 ate workmanship, and adorned with statues; the shrine is said 
 to contain one ton and a half of silver. The Saint was thrown 
 into the Moldau, by order of the Emperor Wenzel, for refusing 
 to reveal what the Empress had confided to him in the Confes- 
 sional ; he was afterwards canonized and became the patron 
 saint of Prague. The Wenzel Chapel is inlaid with Bohemian 
 precious stones, and decorated with ancient frescos, and the 
 Cathedral contains some paintings, and other works of art, curi- 
 osities and relics of doubtful antiquity. 
 
 While wandering about the town, we met some of the Amer- 
 ican tourists left at Dresden, and in company with them visited 
 several places of interest. One of these was the Museum which 
 contained, among other cherished objects, illuminated MSS. ; 
 the sword of Gustavus Adolphus, and the MSS. of John Huss. 
 The specimens in the Geological Department were valuable and 
 well arranged. 
 
 Leaving the Museum, we started for the Jews' Quarter, and 
 after passing through the crooked streets, guided by a young 
 Hebrew, we came to a very ancient synagogue, called the 
 " Altneuschule, " the most gloomy and repulsive place of wor- 
 ship we had seen. The Palace of Count Steinberg contains a 
 small picture gallery, with paintings by some of the celebrated 
 masters. The Belvedere is a large villa built by the Emperor 
 Ferdinand, for the use of the Empress ; the great Hall is adorned 
 with frescos illustrating the history of Bohemia. The Capu- 
 chin Monastery is said to contain a monstrance in the form of 
 rays, decorated with sixty-five hundred and eighty precious 
 stones. 
 
 Our party engaged a carriage, and we rode about the suburbs 
 for two hours, crossing some of the bridges which constitute 
 one of the peculiar features of the city. The most notable, the
 
 
 
 si 
 
 wS 
 

 
 PRAGUE AND VIENNA. 121 
 
 Cailesbiiicke, previously mentioned, is said to have Ijeen erected 
 between 1357 and 1507, by money extorted from the .lews. 
 One visiting this quaint city, in order to undei-staiid and a[»j)re- 
 ciate its remarkable career, should be familiar with the history 
 of the Reformation, and the severe conflicts following, as well 
 as the struggles of later times, which have taken place on the 
 fields of Bohemia. 
 
 Bidding farewell to the interesting city of Prague, we began 
 our journey to Vienna, which was to be our next stop[)ing- 
 place in our wanderings. 
 
 The route afforded scenes of little interest except battle 
 fields; namely, those of the conflict which ended the Hussite 
 war in 1434 ; the field of Koliii, where the Austrians under 
 Marshal Daun defeated Frederick the Great, 1757 ; Austerlitz, 
 the scene of the "Battle of the Three Emperoi-s," 1805 ; the 
 field of Wagram, 1809; of Huingratz, 1866, besides battles 
 between Bohemians and Hungarians in the thirteenth century. 
 Briinn the capital of Moravia is the place where Baron Trencli 
 died in captivity, in 1749, and where Silvio Pellico was 
 imprisoned eight years. Beyond Briinn is the place where 
 Napoleon's reserves under Davout, after the battle of Auster- 
 litz, proved dangerous foes to the retreating Austrians. 
 Nikolsburg, a small town on the route, was the place where an 
 armistice between the Prussians and Austrians was concluded, 
 July, 1866. Near the village of Stupnay occurs a geological 
 marvel, viz., a fossilized forest. 
 
 Arriving at Vienna late in the evening, we went to the Hotel 
 Metropole, on the Franz-Josephs-Quai, and the next day paid 
 a visit to the Burg or Royal Palace, to see the collections of 
 art. The imperial jewels in the Royal Treasury are numerous, 
 comprising several crowns, sceptre, globe, and other insignia of 
 royalty. The collection contains many diamonds, some of them 
 of remarkable beauty, and very rare, as the famous yellow dia- 
 mond of one hundred and thirty-three and one-third carats 
 weight and valued at fifty-seven thousand four hundred and 
 forty-nine pounds, or between two and three hundred thousand 
 dollai-s, and the Florentine diamond once the property of Charles
 
 122 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 the Bold of Burgundy. An order of the Golden Fleece was 
 set with one hundred and fifty brilliants, and one of Maria 
 Theresa with five hundred and forty-eight. There were crowns 
 composed of diamonds and emeralds, others of diamonds and 
 rubies, and several of different sized pearls, while bracelets and 
 various other kinds of ornaments were formed of diamonds, ru- 
 bies, sapphires, emeralds, and topazes. The Vienna collection, 
 perhaps equals, if it does not surpass, the Dresden. The speci- 
 mens of rock crystal seen in vases, pitchers, and other articles, 
 are remarkable for their size and beauty. The collection includes 
 many interesting objects, as curious clocks, watches, goblets, 
 vases, altar-pieces, portrait medallions, ornaments of gold, and 
 enamel, besides coronation robes, crowns, swords, and other ob- 
 jects of the past ages. Here are seen the crown of Charlemagne, 
 the sabre of Haroun-al-Raschid, a talisman of Wallenstein, the 
 insignia of the " Holy Roman Empire," the coronation robes of 
 Napoleon I., as King of Italy, and the cradle of his son, the 
 King of Rome, made of silver-gilt, and weighing five hundred 
 pounds. 
 
 The Cabinet of Coins and Antiques in the Royal Palace, 
 contains engraved gems and cameos remarkable for their size. 
 The Apotheosis of Augustus in onyx, is nine inches in diameter 
 and contains twenty figures ; it was found in Jerusalem, at the 
 time of the Crusades. There are more than forty thousand 
 specimens of coins and numerous intaglios, but a list of all the 
 curiosities would be tedious. 
 
 The Museum of Art and Industry, founded in 1864 en the 
 plan of the South Kensington, England, is a brick building, of 
 the Renaissance style, with two decorated friezes, the lower one 
 containing medallion portraits of thirty-six celebrated artists. 
 The exhibition rooms contain specimens of nearly all branches 
 of ancient art, in gold, glass, ivory, wood engraving, tapestry, 
 pottery wares, tin, iron, brass, bronze, leather, book-binding, 
 etc., besides modern work of superior quality. 
 
 Our next point of attack was the Belvedere, or Museum of 
 Paintings, which we had some trouble to find, as it was a good 
 distance from the Royal Palace. The two buildings, formerly
 
 PRA G UE AND VIENNA . 123 
 
 the Palace of Prince Eugene of Savoy, stood some disUince 
 apart, with a large garden between. Tlie paintings of the old 
 masters were arranged according to the different schools. 
 Many of these we had met before, and they seemed like ol<l 
 acquaintances ; among them were Raphael, Corregio, Da Vinci, 
 Tintoretto, Rubens, Veronese, Murillo, Caracci, Guido Rene 
 Perugino, and Rembrandt. We will venture a few criticisms on 
 these works as they appeared to us. Caraeci's pictures seemed 
 life-like, while Guido Rene's are wanting in this quality. Peru- 
 gino paints human flesh in orange brown, quite unlike western 
 nations. The Annunciation, by Rafael Mengs, is fine, in some 
 respects, as in the representation of Mary and the Angels, but 
 the Supreme Being cannot be reverentially portrayed by hu- 
 man skill. The portraits of an old man and woman by Den- 
 ner were remarkably truthful to nature ; there was nothing 
 ideal about them, and for this reason would not be considered 
 to possess the highest artistic merit. The Dutch masters were 
 so painstaking in delineating natural objects, that a close 
 examination of their work was necessaiy. They were remark- 
 ably realistic and thorough, and too conscientious to slight so 
 small an object as the wing of a tiny insect. Their landscapes 
 were painted with great fidelity, while their fruit and flower 
 pieces, in which they delighted, are nature itself. Not a fly, 
 worm, spider, or a drop of dew, not a vein, in a leaf escapes 
 their touch, nothing is left for the imagination of the spectator. 
 They could paint what they saw, but their representation of 
 sacred subjects was far below those of the Italian mastei-s. 
 Their Christ and angels were human, nothing more. Rubens 
 is a favorite in every gallery, judging from the number of his 
 paintings. His coloring is rich, but there is a grossness in 
 some of his figures that render them repulsive. His women 
 are sensuous, without intellectuality or spirituahty. Both men 
 and women are preeminently flesh and blood ; such muscles, 
 such color, belong to those who could afford no pleasure to 
 cultivated people. This is the character of a majority of his 
 works, though there are exceptions to the rule. 
 
 The Mineral Collections of the Burg are very large and val-
 
 124 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 uable, and well arranged. They comprised salt cr3-stals rang- 
 ing from colorless, througJi all the tints of the prismatic colors ; 
 fine specimens of ruby blende, a peculiar mineral of irides- 
 cent fibres called by an unpronounceable German name, varieties 
 of arragonite, epidote, Iceland spar which exhibited iridescent 
 reflections and double refraction to the best advantage, a speci- 
 men of polished spar of a buff color, representing a plant with 
 stem, branches, and leaves ; various combinations of iron, and 
 other metals, and a great variety of marbles, from the different 
 parts of the world, as Italian, called "Fortification marble" 
 with dendritic impressions, looking almost precisely like vege- 
 tation growing from crevices of old ruins, marbles from Ger- 
 many, France, Italy, and Egypt of different colors, and some 
 with peculiar veins. Specimens from Egypt resembled the 
 Mexican onyx, though differing in color, and is designated 
 Algerian, but no marble was so exquisitely beautiful, in our 
 estimation, as the lumachelle, from Carinthia, with its opal- 
 like reflections. One specimen of opal, obtained from Hun- 
 gary, of exquisite prismatic colors, weighed eighteen ounces, 
 and was said to be the largest known. The collection com- 
 prises some very rare and beautiful specimens of granites and 
 porphyries, jaspers, and other minerals, including a bouquet of 
 flowers made for Maria Theresa, of different kinds of gems, 
 comprising a light-green and semi-transparent chrysoprase, a 
 yellowish-green and perfectly transparent chrysolite, a yellow- 
 ish chrysoberyl, gems that might be easily confounded. It 
 seems to us, that a universal language should be adopted for 
 scientific nomenclature. We were attracted and amused by a 
 specimen labelled, California, Mexico, 1867, and concluded 
 that Austrian mineralogists were more familiar with the nat- 
 ural sciences, than with geography and histoiy. 
 
 The absence of almost everything from the mineral king- 
 dom, the fine arts, the industrial arts, of rare objects of inter- 
 est or of historical value, from the United States, is very 
 noticeable in all the museums of Europe. If this country was 
 erased from the map of the world, it would make but little dif- 
 ference in their catalogues. True, America has not, nor ever
 
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 PRAGUE AND VIENNA. 12.5 
 
 can have, the rich treasures of antique art fouinl in Europe. 
 They were, for the most part, collections made untler entirely 
 different political and social conditions from those of our own 
 country, and were largely the result of royal or government 
 patronage, or the inheritance of an hereditary aristocracy 
 Most foreign nations excel in one or more departments of 
 industry, in which a familiarity with the fine arts is essential, 
 and this fact proves the value of free galleries and other places 
 where the masses can be brought in contact with the works of 
 the greatest geniuses of different periods. Therefore, these 
 institutions have a refining influence. Our country needs 
 more such educators, in the character of free museums of art, 
 handsome buildings, monuments, public parks, fountains, 
 gardens, and the like. 
 
 We concluded that a visit to the Imperial Stables miglit be 
 entertaining to a citizen of the Republic, but on our way thither 
 we met with one of those annoyances to which travellers are 
 sometimes exposed. A man who had previously offered his 
 services as guide, but had been rejected, appeared again when 
 it was impossible to get rid of him. Pie could speak a little 
 English, and said he had been in America, but this might have 
 been a ruse to gain an advantage. He would attend us in 
 spite of all our efforts to elude him, and dictated what fees we 
 must pay the custodians, and even went so far as to order a 
 lunch for himself at a restaurant, at our expense, and after 
 going through the stables, he persisted in accompanying us to 
 our hotel, in order to gain extra fees. Now for the royal 
 stables. Our persistent guide said that the horses numbered 
 seven hundred and fifty, the carriages five hundred and fifty, 
 but the number of groomsmen we have forgotten, a little army, 
 we presume. In one stable the horses were all white with 
 long tails, and were to be used with a particular kind of 
 carriage for special occasions. In another a[)artment, the 
 horses were all gray with docked tails ; in othere tiiey were 
 black, bay, or sorrel as the case might be. The carriage room 
 comprises vehicles of all styles, sizes, and ornamentation ; gold, 
 silver, and other decorations were profusely employed. Some
 
 126 PLEASAXT ifEMORIES OF FOREIGX 1 RAVEL. 
 
 of these carriages have been used by earlier sovereigns, but a 
 large number were modern, including one used hj Napoleon I., 
 and several by Maria Theresa. The walls of the apartment 
 for the imperial harnesses were covered with gold, and silver- 
 mounted caparisons, while in the centre of the room stood 
 the ligui-e of a horse richly equipped, and another animal with 
 the saddle, bridle, and lasso of the unfortunate Emperor of 
 Mexico. 
 
 Having seen how the Emperor's horses were domiciled, we 
 were desirous of knowing how his majesty was provided for, 
 therefore we returned to the palace and went through a suc- 
 cession of large rooms, but not so gaudily decorated as some we 
 had seen. The walls of several apartments were covered with 
 tapestry, others were gold and white. The walls of the room 
 containinsr the bed of Maria Theresa were covered with em- 
 broidered crimson damask, another apartment contained the 
 miniatures of royal persons, while others comprised pictures in 
 mosaics. Rich articles of furniture were seen in some of the 
 rooms, including a cabinet inlaid with ivory, two large clocks 
 with cases of tortoise-shells and silver. The floor of all these 
 apartments were in marquetry of different colored woods. One 
 large hall, probably the ballroom, was furnished with galleries, 
 and nearly one hundred chandeUers. A private chapel back 
 of the altar contained a fine painting, representing the death of 
 one of the emperors. 
 
 The churches of Vienna afforded some interesting studies 
 "We went to the Greek Church where the services were con- 
 ducted in the vernacular. The churches of this sect are 
 highly decorated, though constructed on a different plan from 
 the Roman. There are no seats for the audience, except the 
 infirm ; the men stand on one side, the women on the other, 
 while the area between is left unoccupied. At the end oppo- 
 site the entrance, a screen separates the body of the church 
 from the place occupied by the officiating priest, who occasion- 
 ally shows himself to the congregation through a door. The 
 choir occupies a place elevated above the audience opposite the 
 altar; most of the services consisted in singing. The pulpit
 
 PRAGUE AND VIENNA . 127 
 
 was elevated on one side, so that considering tlie ofiicial duties 
 of the priest behind the screen, the singing and preaching, far 
 above their heads, it is difficult to undei-stand how the i»eople 
 could be reached. The interior of the church w{is decorated by 
 gilt bronze, wood, imitation marbles, and paintings, but tliere 
 was more simplicity than in the Roman churches, with their 
 piofusion of statues, shrines, altars, candlesticks, confessionals, 
 etc. 
 
 The sacerdotal robes of the Greek clergy are exceedingly 
 rich, consisting of velvet covered with embroidery of gold and 
 jewels, especially those of the higher order. There were no 
 instruments of music, but the singing was good. When the 
 sacrament was administered, each member approached the altar 
 and took from a plate, held by a boy standing near the priest, 
 the consecrated wafer, first the men, then the women ; the latter 
 kissed the hand of the priest. During the services the sign of 
 the cross was frequently made by the worshippers, and, in cer- 
 tain ceremonies, it was made simultaneously, which to the 
 spectator appeared like a comical pantomime. The next church 
 we visited was St. Stephen's, said to be the most important one 
 in Vienna. It was founded in the twelfth century, but addi- 
 tions were made between 1300 and 1510. It was constmcted 
 of limestone, and is thi-ee hundred and fifty-four feet in length ; 
 eighteen large columns support the vaulting around vhich 
 statues, shrines, and various other devices are clustered, giving 
 the interior a crowded appearance. The High Altar is silver 
 with gold ornaments, the columns and architrave are of black 
 marble with silver decorations. The pulpit is of stone with 
 carving ; the choir is hung with faded tapestry, while statues, 
 paintings, candelabra, etc., are profuse. Formerly, the members 
 of the Austrian royal family were buried in this church, but 
 for two hundred years their place of sepulture has been the 
 Church of the Capuchins. Prince Eugene of Savoy was buried 
 in St. Stephen's. The tall tower and spire are very imposing. 
 The entrance on the west end called the Giant's Door, is 
 opened only on occasions of great solemnity. Sculptures and 
 monuments embellish the exterior, including that of the
 
 128 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 Meistersinger Fricks. St. Peter's Church is a basilica with 
 frescos, paintings, etc., and the Church of St. Nicholas is very- 
 ancient having been founded in 1221, but there is nothing re- 
 markable about either, except the unsightly representation of 
 clouds in stucco, in the latter. These clouds look like plates 
 of metal or those disk-like clay formations, familiar to geolo- 
 gists. There is a monument in Grabben Strasse, where clouds 
 were intended to be delineated, and a more ridiculous monu- 
 ment could hardly have been conceived by a lunatic. 
 
 There is much that is admirable and beautiful in art, much 
 to elevate the mind and inspire the soul with devout aspira- 
 tions, but there are also some things that are puerile, even 
 ridiculous and contemptible. Not every subject is suitable for 
 the chisel or the brush, and when a mistake is made in their 
 selection or treatment, art is degraded. "What is called the 
 Votive Church, erected to commemorate the Emperor's escape 
 from assassination, was unfinished at the time of our visit, but 
 as far as we could judge, it was designed to become one of the 
 finest churches in the city. It is Gothic with some beautiful 
 frescos and painted glass. 
 
 October 22 we met two of our country-women whom we 
 had seen at Geneva, and went with them to the Schonbrunn, the 
 summer residence of the Imperial Family, The royal chateau 
 is delightfully situated in a large and beautiful park inter- 
 sected by wide avenues, with trees, a la Fran^aise, statues and 
 fountains, while opposite the palace, on an elevated site, stands 
 a structure or colonnade called the Gloriette. We visited the 
 chateau and found it decorated with various rich and beautiful 
 designs, and the walls of some of the apartments were covered 
 with large paintings by Rosa. One room was covered with 
 Chinese paintings, another with Japanese, and a third was 
 ceiled with rose-wood inlaid with small panels of paintings, 
 but the most magnificent room had the walls covered with ele- 
 gant wood and gold. The panels of one apartment consisted 
 of porcelain, and the articles of the room were of the same 
 material. All the cabinets or saloons differed from one an- 
 other, and no two were furnished alike, and the floors were all
 
 PRAGUE AND VIENNA. 120 
 
 of beautiful marquetry. Napoleon I. made tliis Cliateau his 
 headquarters, and his son, the Duke of Keichstadt, died in the 
 same room occupied by Napoleon III. in 1832. There are 
 numerous portraits of Maria Theresa, who seems to have been 
 a favorite of the Austrians. The park, belonging to this sum- 
 mer residence, with its long avenues, its fountains and statues, 
 is a delightful place in which to saunter. Sans Souci has more 
 variety and surprises, but Schunbrunn is more cheerful, while 
 its short distance from Vienna, makes it easily accessible to 
 the citizens and travellers. 
 
 Returning to the city we went to the Church of the (■a[)u- 
 chins, for the purpose of seeing the royal vaults of the Impe- 
 rial Family, which contain about eighty sarcophagi mostly of 
 copper, though one was of silver, and all were elaborately or- 
 namented. Here repose the ashes of Maria Theresa and her 
 husband, Francis I., in a magnificent tomb; Maria Louise and 
 her son, the Duke of Reichstadt ; Maximilian, the emperor of 
 Mexico, and all the other roj'-al personages of the last two hun- 
 dred years. Death is no respecter of rank or age, for here are 
 little coffins, showing that royal households have their domestic 
 sorrows. 
 
 The collection of the upper Belvedere gallery is not 
 large for a city like Vienna, but there are a number of private 
 galleries open to the public. The Ambras collection found at 
 the Chateau of Ambras, near Innsbruck, contains various kinds 
 of equestrian armor, including that of a life-guardsman of the 
 Archduke Ferdinand which is seven and one-half feet in 
 height, the battle-axe of Montezuma, firearms of all kinds orna- 
 mented with inlaid and carved work, garments richly em- 
 broidered with pearls supposed to have belonged to the 
 Order of the Golden Fleece ; and two hundred portraits of 
 royal persons of different nations. The Lower Belvedere is 
 divided into two separate departments, one containing antique 
 statues, reliefs, inscriptions, mosaics, etc., most of them found 
 in the Austrian dominions, and the Egyptian collection includ- 
 ing various objects in bronze, stone, and clay. Gems are lib- 
 erally employed in embellishing many of the specimens. ISaint
 
 130 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 Augustine, the name of the Court church near the palace, is 
 a long, narrow building rich in decorations. The high altar is 
 in the form of a Gothic church, and has several statues and 
 wood carving, but is free from gaudy decorations, and in har- 
 mony with other parts of the church. The pure white marble 
 monument of Maria Christina, daughter of Maria Theresa, by 
 Canova, is very beautiful ; it is in the form of a pyramid, with 
 a group of several statues, and near the top is a bust of the 
 princess (who died in 1793) in relief, supported by angels. 
 The statue of Francis L, erected in one of the platz of the pal- 
 ace, is of bronze. The emperor is represented standing, while 
 the four corners of the granite base are occupied with allegor- 
 ical figures of Religion, Peace, Justice, and Bravery. There 
 are groups of statuary near the gates to the platz, delineating 
 the labors of Hercules. In this court, the band performs, when 
 the guard is changed at one o'clock, with military manceuvres. 
 Probably there are several hundred soldiers belonging to the 
 imperial household at every palace. We made a second visit 
 to the Mineral cabinets which contain a very great variety of 
 specimens, from countries aU over the world including the 
 United States, then proceeded to the arsenal a long distance 
 off, though unfortunately it was not open to the public only 
 on certain days, but we saw the vestibule where fifty- two 
 marble heroes are arranged about the columns supporting the 
 vaulted roof. The arsenal consists of a series of structures 
 enclosing a quadrangle one third of a mile in length and one 
 fourth in width. The collection of weapons, it is said, is one 
 of the best and largest known ; some of them are very curious 
 and others ornamental. 
 
 The Prata was the place of the great exposition, and some 
 of the buildings were left standing which made the park seem 
 like a deserted city. Next to Paris, Vienna is the most beau- 
 tiful town we have yet visited, the buildings are fine, and the 
 streets are wide. The stone generally used in construction, is 
 a light-colored sandstone, producing a cheerful impression sim- 
 ilar to that of the Calcaire Grossier, of which the French capi- 
 tol is built. A number of fine buildings, mostly for public use
 
 PRAGUE AND VIENNA. 13| 
 
 were being erected and when finished will greatly enhance the 
 beauty of the city. 
 
 Having given as much time to Vienna as our plans would 
 allow we prepared to resume our journey for anotlier Italian 
 tour, this time to Venice, Home, Naples, and other southern 
 towns, where we planned to spend the last part of autumn and 
 the winter.
 
 132 PLEA SA NT MEMORIES OF FOREl GN TEA VEL . 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 A Second Visit to Italy. 
 
 October 26, a day like a New England " Indian Summer," 
 we left Vienna for Trieste ; the route was charming, the scenery 
 exquisitely beautiful, while the Semmering Pass was unlike 
 those we had previously seen. The railroad, a marvel of civil 
 engineering, has a great number of tunnels or galleries of the 
 strongest masonry, many of them with two tiers of arches, 
 one above another. The mountains are not so grand and lofty 
 as the Swiss Alps, but they are very beautiful, being covered 
 mostly with small trees whose foliage is remarkable for rich- 
 ness of color, affording nearly every shade of orange and yel- 
 low. The gorgeous red maple of America is wanting, but 
 one species was conspicuous for its brilliant foliage, which, 
 with the sun shining upon it, resembled the Fire Opal. In- 
 numerable shades of yellow and orange, with evergreens and 
 russet browns, combine to make a lovely garniture for field 
 and forest. The color of the rocks varied ; some being a light 
 green, and as seen from the train, resembled chloritic slate ; 
 the soil was of the same hue. In other places, the rock was a 
 blue-gray limestone. The mountains are generally conical in 
 shape, and with their beautifully tinted foliage, made a charm- 
 ing picture. Never before had we noticed the effect of red 
 color in the general aspect of nature, as we saw it in crossing 
 the Semmering Pass ; it was exquisitely softened and blended 
 or contrasted with other hues, and afforded studies in color, 
 over which an artist might become enthusiastic. Add to 
 these, the hue of the rocks, and of the waters of the rivers 
 which, in some is bronze tinted by the pebbles on the bed of 
 the stream, and, in others, as the Save, it is green. The seen-
 
 A SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. 133 
 
 ery in the valley of this river is grand, witli its high and st«up 
 mountains on either side, while along the route are villages, 
 cultivated fields, and manufactories. 
 
 Gratz, the capital of Styria, the largest town we passed, 
 with a population at the time of eighty-one thousand, is sit- 
 uated on the Kiver Mur; the citadel is four hundred feet above 
 the river. The French, under McDonald, in 1809, blew up the 
 fortifications of this stronghold. Some of the Austrian royal 
 family were buried in this city, which has been the theatre of 
 many historical events. On leaving Gratz, we passed the 
 ruined castle of Wildon, where Tycho Brahe made his astro- 
 nomical observations. The railway crosses the River Dran, fol- 
 lows the valley of the Save, with its picturesque scenery, then 
 crosses the Laibach, which, it is supposed, may be the same 
 that disappears in the Cave of Adelsberg, and reappears at 
 Plauina, though bearing three different names. It is not un- 
 common for rivers in the Julian Alps, which are a limestone 
 formation, to disappear from the surface, follow a subterranean 
 passage for some distance, and then emerge. We regretted 
 that we could not visit the celebrated caverns of Adelsberg 
 which resemble those of the Mammoth Cave of Kentucky. 
 The remainder of our journey was made in the evening, but 
 we were on the watch to catch the first view of the Adriatic, 
 which was quite distinct, as there was a moon. The sight of 
 the innumerable lights from the wharves and the shipping in 
 the Bay of Trieste was fairy-like. Our journey of three hun- 
 dred and sixty-three miles made in fourteen and one-half houra 
 was ended, and we found ourselves at the Hotel de Li Ville. 
 A few words in regard to the railway over the Semmering 
 will close our account of the journey. It has been said to be 
 the first continuous railway, and the grandest work of the 
 kind in Europe. It is carried through fifteen tunnels and 
 over fifteen bridges, while the cost of twenty-five miles over 
 this part of the way, was more than seven million five hun- 
 dred thousand dollars. The foundations are so strong that, 
 apparently, it will endure for many generations. The Semmer- 
 ing, comprising three peaks, is sLxty-eight hundred and eight
 
 134 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 feet in height, and the railway station was at an elevation of 
 twenty-eight hundred and ninety-four feet. 
 
 Trieste is a very picturesque town ; the new and finer streets 
 are along the shore of the bay, but the older parts occupy the 
 sides and summit of a range of hills running parallel with the 
 shore. They are so steep and narrow that no vehicles can 
 traverse them. The approach to the castle, on a high eminence 
 in the new town, is by a paved street as steep as the roof of a 
 building. The harbor is crowded with shipping, and here is 
 seen the bustling activity of a great commercial seaport. The 
 market-places are interesting for the study of the peculiarities 
 and customs of different nations. The native peasant women 
 wear a black garment without sleeves over a white one, and a 
 head covering of white, descending from the back of the head 
 to the skirts below the waist, while the feet are covered in a 
 very clumsy manner. It is surprising to see with what ease 
 these women will carry burdens on their heads. They will 
 balance a large basket or other articles full of their wares, with 
 perfect security. A small cushion or folded handkerchief is 
 placed upon the head, and then almost any burden can be 
 adjusted. 
 
 The public squares and wide streets of a town serve as mar- 
 ket-places in many of the countries of Europe, and here are 
 collected the vendors of almost every kind of merchandise. 
 Sometimes small booths are erected ; but frequently the goods are 
 exposed in the open air. After spending one day in Trieste, 
 we left for Venice by a night boat, and at an early hour the 
 next morning, we had our first view of the distant island city. 
 We passed a long line of fortifications, and when at length we 
 came near the Grand Canal, we caught sight of San Marco. 
 Was it a dream or a reality that the identical St. Mark's 
 loomed up before us, which we had so often heard about and 
 seen represented by art ? 
 
 The gondolas were crowding about the steamboat, and the 
 gondoliers were clamoring for passengers, in a strange tongue. 
 The Custom House officials were on board our boat, but for 
 what purpose we have never found out, for they did not so much
 
 A SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. 135 
 
 as look at our luggage, but merely asked a question in Italian, 
 which we answered at random in English. It is probable they 
 wished to know whether we had any dutiable articles, but they 
 allowed us to pass Avithout further trouble. After some 
 delay we took our place in a gondola for a hotel, but the gon- 
 dolier was not quite sure that we knew where we wanted to go, 
 so he hailed a comrade telling him he had as passengers " In- 
 glese," meaning English, and wished him to inquire whether 
 we had a hotel selected. Finally we were landed at the Hotel 
 Italia, near the square of St. Mark. 
 
 The following morning we directed our steps to the Piazza 
 San Marco which we had heard so much about, and which 
 seemed like a familiar object, with the Campanile rising above 
 every other object. San Marco with its heterogeneous and pic- 
 torial architecture, the Ducal Palace, the tall poles with their 
 flags waving in the breeze, the two columns facing the Grand 
 Canal, the domes, the bronze horses, and the arched doorways 
 of the Cathedral, and even the pigeons moving about the Piazza 
 of San Marco, without fear of their human companions, seemed 
 like familiar objects. We entered the famous Cathedral where 
 several priests were officiating, but the audience did not seem 
 greatly interested in the service, for a part of the worshippers 
 were watching the people, while others were taking snuff and 
 making free use of a piece of checked cloth which, it is pre- 
 sumed, they considered a pocket handkerchief. The entire 
 services appeared very formal and very undevotional, and all 
 seemed pleased when they ended. 
 
 The next day we made another visit to St. Mark's for the 
 purpose of becoming acquainted with its special features. 
 When new it must have been a magnificent building, but time 
 has impaired its beauty. The entire edifice, externally and 
 internally, is covered with different colored marbles or with 
 mosaics on a gold ground; some of the marbles are antiques* 
 The Cathedral has five hundred marble columns, and between 
 forty and fifty thousand feet of mosaics, which have retained 
 their colors remarkably well. St. Mark's, hke a jeweller's col- 
 lection, must be studied in detail. It is unlike any other church
 
 136 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 we had seen, and judged by the rules of architecture, it would 
 probably be considered an exception in the art of building, and 
 belonging to no particular style. The Campanile, or bell-tower, 
 rising three hundred and twenty-two feet makes the Duomo 
 appear quite low, while the Square or Piazza is smaller than we 
 had supposed, and nearly enclosed by buildings. The Palazza 
 Reale or Royal Palace occupies the entire length on the south 
 side, another palace on the north is connected with it, while the 
 Cathedral is on the east side. These palaces were formerly 
 occupied by the Procurators of the Venetian Republic, and 
 subsequently were used for the entertainment of royal visitors. 
 Arcades extend along three sides of the Square, furnishing 
 room for the best shops in Venice, and in the evening, when 
 lighted by gas, present a very brilliant sight, especially the 
 numerous jewellers' stands. The Italians, with their artistic 
 tastes, arrange the shop-windows in a very attractive manner, 
 while the various beautiful objects displayed have the effect of 
 a grand exposition. 
 
 Venice may appropriately be called a city of churches and 
 canals, and to continue our study of the former, with our 
 guide book for a " Commissionaire," we started from our hotel, 
 and through the narrow streets, walled on both sides by veiy 
 high buildings, made our way to some of the churches, and 
 soon met a funeral procession led by a company dressed in 
 red cotton frocks, and with bare heads ; each man holding a 
 candle in a bronze candlestick, the two together being probably 
 twenty feet in height. Next came a company dressed in black 
 and white, followed by priests in another kind of di-ess. One 
 man carried a number of tall candles such as are used in 
 churches, another a bronze figure, and a third a kind of 
 banner like a framed picture. The procession was on its way 
 to the Church of San Zaccaria with the remains. When they 
 arrived there the crowd dispersed; and the officials in red 
 frocks, placed the coffin on a high catafalque. Others with 
 candles arranged themselves around the body, and the priests 
 began the Mass, and went through the ceremony as if they felt 
 no interest in it or in the deceased. The people who came to
 
 
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 it. 
 
 
 j Hi lai. 
 
 ijli' 'i>»titflH 
 
 St. ]\r.\iJK's, Venice. 
 
 SnYLOfKS Hoi'SE, Venice.
 
 A SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. 137 
 
 witness the ceremony comprised many persons very poorly 
 clad, dirty, ragged, and with hard, unsympatlietic counte- 
 nances, as if they had always been accustomed to the dark side 
 of life. This church contains paintings on the walls and 
 ceilings by Tintoretto, Bellini, and other artists; but the light 
 was so imperfect it was difficult to see them. The High Altar 
 is Gothic, and the columns of the interior are covered by 
 brocade with gold borders, wliile the Choir of the Nuns con- 
 tains a Madonna, by Palma Vecchio, it is supposed. From 
 St. Zaccaria we went to Santa Maria Formosa, with modern 
 frescos and some rich marbles. The pictures included a 
 Descent from the Cross, by Giovane ; a Santa Barbara, by 
 Vecchio ; the Last Supper, either by Bassano or Veronese ; but 
 the most impressive work in this church is the Dj-ing Cluist, 
 supported by angels, a relief in bronze and marble, by 
 Campagna. 
 
 The next day we resumed our inspection of ecclesiastical 
 buildings, and passing through Via Merceria, the principal 
 business street, we came to the Church of St. Salvatore, said to 
 be one of the finest in Venice, but found it closed for repairs. 
 The faQade is surmounted by three fiat domes on a circular 
 vaulting. S. Giovanni Crisostomo, founded in 1483, contains 
 paintings by Bellini and Piombo, and reliefs by Lombards ; 
 and the Church of Santi Apostoli contains a painting of the 
 Last Supper, but inferior to that of Da Vinci's, the Fall of 
 Manna, by Paul Veronese, and an imposing tomb to the 
 Corner family. 
 
 The Church of S. Felice, on the Corso Vittoria Emmanuele, 
 the broadest street in Venice, is peculiar in some features, com- 
 prising an altar very rich in gold ornamentation, a crown of 
 the same rich metal, supported by golden angels, resting on a 
 wreath of gold, while on each side were candelabra, supported 
 by angelic beings with golden wings, and covered with a mantle 
 of gold. The drapery of the High Altar is of crimson velvet, 
 bordered with gold. This church contains a painting of the 
 Virgin with the " Burning Heart." The S. Maria dell' Orto 
 has a fine Gothic faQade, a curious tower, and some good pict-
 
 138 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 ures, comprising the Last Judgment and the Adoration of the 
 Golden Calf, by Tintoretto, besides the Capella Contarini, 
 with several busts representing members of this celebrated 
 family. 
 
 For a change, we took a sail in the afternoon to the Ledo, a 
 place of resort in summer, but at this season almost deserted. 
 With its pleasant drives and shaded avenues, its conveniences 
 for sea-bathing, the fine views of the Adriatic it afforded, 
 would, of course, become attractive. We witnessed here a glo- 
 rious natural phenomenon — a sunset similar in some aspects 
 to those of New England, but with this difference, that in ad- 
 dition to the celestial splendor, were added the changeable 
 colors of the sea — pink, blue, and gold equal to the glory of the 
 sun itself, while in the clear water were reflected the shadows 
 of the campaniles, the churches, and indeed the entire city of 
 Venice, seated on her island throne like a princess. Besides 
 her peculiar natural surroundings, the Queen of the Adriatic, 
 is very interesting on account of her historical associations. 
 One unaccustomed to the special study of ecclesiastical build- 
 ings, might think it would become monotonous and tedious ; 
 but while there is a similarity in the more celebrated churches 
 of Europe, generally the work of the Middle Ages, there is 
 also great diversity, no two being precisely alike in style or 
 decorations. Many of them are really splendid exhibitions of 
 the fine arts — music, paintings, sculpture, and architecture, 
 the last being the noblest and broadest of the arts, combining 
 all the others. Without some previous knowledge of the fine 
 arts, a tourist through Europe would fail in securing great ad- 
 vantages from foreign travel. Returning to the churches of 
 Italy, the S. M. Gloriosa dei Frari, one of the largest and most 
 beautiful in Venice, in the Italian Gothic style, was founded in 
 the thirteenth century and completed by Pisano, in 1338. It 
 is remarkable for its sculptures and monuments, comprising 
 those of Titian, Canova, and several Doges, besides other dis- 
 tinguished persons. The beautiful monument of Titian is of 
 light colored marble, with four Corinthian columns and the 
 same number of pilasters, all resting on decorated pedestals,
 
 A SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. 139 
 
 supporting an arch on the top of which is the winged Lion of 
 St. Mark. P^igures representing Sculpture, Painting, Archi- 
 tecture, and wood-carving are phiced on the colunnis. Titian 
 is represented sitting by an angel and uncovering the statue of 
 the goddess Sais ; and at each corner of the base is a sitting 
 statue. Three of the artist's most celebrated works, the As- 
 sumption, Martyrdom of St. Peter, and Martyrdom of St. Lau- 
 rence, are represented on the walls, in relief, while above the 
 vaulting, are reliefs of his Annunciation and the Entombment. 
 The monument of Canova, directly opposite, is a pyramid of 
 white marble with a doorway in the centre, and is a duplicate, 
 with some modifications, of the one made by Canova, for Maria 
 Christina. This church contains paintings by some of the 
 Venetian masters ; the marble screen between the nave and tlie 
 choir is covered with reliefs, and the stalls are elegantly carved 
 by Marco da Vicenza. A Monastery near contains one of the 
 largest collections of archives known, including, it is said, four- 
 teen million of documents, the oldest dating from 883 A. D. ; 
 they occupy two hundred and ninety-eight different apart- 
 ments. 
 
 The church of S. Rococo, near the Archives, contains a pict- 
 ure of Holy Martyrs, by Tintoretto, and of Christ on the way 
 to Golgotha, by Titian, and several other paintings represent- 
 ing Scripture scenes. The Scuola di S. Rococo, containing the 
 council halls of the brotherhood, is adorned by works of some 
 of the masters ; as Ecce Homo and the Annunciation, by Titian, 
 and the Crucifixion, by Tintoretto. If it would not be presumpt- 
 uous to criticise so eminent an artist, we would suggest that 
 too many figures appear in the Annunciation, for we had 
 always supposed that Mary was alone when she received the 
 angelic visitor. The Crucifixion, a large picture with many 
 figures, is a powerful and pathetic scene. The group in the 
 foreground consists of the friends of Jesus, comprising his 
 fainting mother. The cross of the Saviour has already been 
 erected, and on one side of it men are raising, by means of 
 a rope, the cross of one of the malefactors, while on tlie other 
 side the thief is partly rechuing, gazing up at the Saviour, and
 
 140 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 two soldiers are casting lots for the garments of Jesus. Groups 
 of people, including men, women, and children, are scattered 
 about, some led thither from curiosity, some from hate, and a 
 few from sympath}'- ; the City of Jerusalem is seen in the dis- 
 tance. 
 
 Some of the most beautiful Avood carving we had yet seen 
 is used in the decoration of the Scuola. Its deep color, 
 smooth and glossy surface so closely resembled bronze, that we 
 were at first deceived by the imitation. The Church of St. Pan- 
 taleone presented a very peculiar and repulsive aspect. The 
 interior was covered with black drapery, on which were painted 
 in white, skeletons, skulls, cross-bones, and other funereal 
 decorations. The priests were instructing a class of boys, 
 whom we found were much like American youth, under the 
 same circumstances — inattentive, curious, and noisy. They 
 watched our movements, and became so bold as to call for 
 " centessimi." The churches we had visited were all on the 
 west side of the Grand Canal, but the Church of the Jesuits 
 was on the east side. Like all others of this order, it was 
 highly decorated, and might be regarded as a remarkable quarry 
 of different marbles. The columns, walls, etc., of light colored 
 specimens, were inlaid with verde-antique, representing large 
 vines and flowers. The high altar had ten spiral columns of 
 verde-antique, while the pavement in front of the altar was of 
 mosaics. The chapels were highly decorated, and the ceilings 
 were of yellow marble. The Church of SS. Giovanni e Paolo, 
 founded in 1240, and completed in 1430, may be called the 
 Westminister Abbey of Venice, on account of the number of 
 monuments it contains ; it ranks next to St. Marco for its 
 imposing aspect. It contains the burial vaults of most of the 
 Doges, whose funeral rites were performed here. The front 
 entrance exhibits some beautiful architectural designs. The 
 tombs with their wealth of statues and sculptured reliefs are 
 magnificent, especially the Mausoleum of the Valier family, 
 with its statues and yellow marble, representing a curtain with 
 folds, so nearly like woven fabrics that the illusion is almost 
 complete. This monument reaches to the top of the vaulting,
 
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 A SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. 141 
 
 and though the height of the nave is great, some of tlie sar- 
 cophagi are pkced near the top. Several beautiful nionunieiita 
 adorn the choir and chapels. 
 
 Many otlier churches were visited, hut a description of tliL-m 
 might become tedious. Though on the whole we were edilied 
 and delighted with this branch of study, yet there were a few 
 sad lessons taught. Some of the paintings were so discolored 
 by age that they needed the best light to reveal their merits, 
 yet they were often hung in dark, remote cornera, as if they 
 were rubbish. Statuary and sculptured ornaments were 
 less affected by age, except the pure white marble which has 
 assumed somewhat the color of bronze, while wood-carving 
 greatly improves by time, making it one of the pleasing feat- 
 ures of old churches. The treasures of art these buildincrs con- 
 tain bear the marks of decay, and will in future geneiutions be 
 known only as the events of history are known. Nothing can 
 preserve them from utter extinction, while it is different with 
 the works of architecture, they can be repaired, though in 
 Venice there seems to be little inclination to do so. There 
 are signs of deterioration everywhere. The buildings are going 
 to decay, and there is no room to construct new ones. The 
 question arises, will the time come when this renowned city of 
 palaces and churches will become a general ruin ? 
 
 The paintings in the Academy of Fine Arts are placed in a 
 more favorable light than those in the churches. One of the 
 most striking pictures of this collection is Titian's Assumption 
 which needs no comment except praise. Its rich coloring and 
 fine expression cannot be described. The Madonna, the angels, 
 the apostles, are all remarkable representations of joy and rapt- 
 ure. Some of Tintoretto's best productions are found in this 
 gallery, including his Miracle of St. Mark and the Supper in 
 the House of Levi, for large paintings, and his Death of Abel 
 and Fall of Man, for smaller ones, considered by Kuskin, 
 among his best, while some other critics regard his St. Mark 
 the best. Some of the other celebrated paintings are the Presen- 
 tation of the Virgin in the Temple, when a child, painted by 
 Titian, and the Fishermen presenting the Doge with a ring, a
 
 142 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 large painting giving a fine view of the Square of St. Mark. 
 The preaching of John the Baptist, in the Wilderness, is re- 
 markable for rich coloring and the fidehty of the large number 
 of figures represented. The Venetian school is remarkable 
 for richness of color and vividness of expression. The old 
 masters had the power of deUneating the spiritual qualities of 
 human beings; they were diligent students of the sacred writ- 
 ings, or they could not have succeeded so well in representing 
 Scripture scenes. A deeply religious and reverential feeling, 
 foreign to most modern works, pervades them. Superstitions 
 they may have had, but they cherished more lofty ideals and a 
 stronger faith than is common in the present age. 
 
 We made a visit to the Palace Giovanelli, built in the fif- 
 teenth century. The apartments were furnished very sumpt- 
 uously, but there is little satisfaction in being attended by a 
 guide, who rushes through the rooms without giving one time 
 to see half they contain, much less to examine the specimens, 
 or objects. In going rapidly through the palace we gained a 
 confused idea of some things, very splendid and costly, as a 
 magnificent marble staircase, elegant furniture, fine paintings, 
 splendid glass chandeliers, painted mirrors, floors of beautiful 
 woods, marble mosaics in different patterns, walls covered 
 with tapestry and figured satin, tables of beautiful patterns 
 of inlaid work, rare antique porcelains, statues, elegant wood- 
 carving, and other ornaments of various kinds ; these were 
 among the sights of a Venetian palace, which was probably, a 
 fair representation of others in this city of merchant princes. 
 Now for the Doges' Palace. 
 
 This historical building was begun in 800 A. D., and during 
 a visit one is carried back in imagination to the time of the 
 Republic, when so many secret tragedies were enacted here and 
 in the dungeons opposite. The palace has been destroyed five 
 times, and as often rebuilt with greater magnificence each time ; 
 the present structure was completed in 1442. A few of its 
 striking features are the following : the west and south sides 
 are flanked by two colonnades, one above the other, both to- 
 gether supported by one hundred and seven columns. The
 
 A SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. 143 
 
 upper colonnade or "La Loggia" is the place where the ancient 
 Republic published the sentences of death, and the portal of 
 different colored marbles called the Porta dcUa Carta was so 
 called from the placards exhibited here announcing the decrees 
 of the Republic. The prison of the poet, Count Silvio Pellico, 
 imprisoned in 1822, was in one of the upper rooms of 
 the Court. The coronation of the doge, occurred on the 
 highest landing of the Scala dei Giganti, with their colossal 
 statues of Mars and Neptune, and busts of several Venetian 
 scholars, artists, and doges. The hall of the Great Council, 
 where the highest tribunal of the Republic sat, is a room one 
 hundred and sixty-five feet in length, and contains on the frieze, 
 the portraits of seventy-six doges, while the walls are covered by 
 the pictures of Venetian masters, including Tintoretto's Para- 
 dise, said to be the largest painting in the world ; but it seemed 
 to us to have little merit besides. The Voting Hall is adorned 
 with the portraits of thirty-nine doges ; on the entrance wall is 
 Giovane's Last Judgment. The palace contains the Library of 
 St. Mark's with many rare MSS. and a collection of coins. 
 
 The Archaeological Museum contains ancient marble sculpt- 
 ures of Greek and Roman art, brought to Venice during her 
 foreign wars. The Sala della Bussola, formerly the ante-cham- 
 ber of the " Three Inquisitors of the Republic," contains an 
 opening in the wall, called Bocca di Leone, or Lion's Mouth, 
 in which the documents of secret information Avere placed. 
 There are the rooms of the Council of Ten, and of the Three 
 Chiefs of the Council, with walls decorated with paintings, 
 besides various other apartments memorable in the Republic. 
 The east side of the palace is connected with the Carceri, or 
 Prison, by the lofty Ponte dei Sospiri, or Bridge of Sighs, over 
 which so many unhappy victims were led to execution. There 
 were also prisons called Piombi, located under the lead roof of 
 the palace, but they were destroyed in 1797, and the famous 
 dungeons on the opposite side of the Canal have not been 
 used since the seventeenth century. To close the day, we iw- 
 cended the Campanile, in the Square of St. Mark. TiiLs tower, 
 with no architectural beauty, is three hundred and twenty -two
 
 144 PLEASANT MEMOIilES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 feet in height, and built of brick, and has no ornaments ex- 
 cept in the vestibule. The ascent is by an inclined plane and 
 some steps, and before reaching the top we pass many times 
 around it. From the summit we had an extensive view of 
 the entire city, the beautiful Adriatic, with its gem-like islands, 
 and in the remote distance the majestic Alps, while near, 
 stands the Cathedral, the Doges' Palace, the Ro3'al Palace, and 
 scattered all over the islands are seen numberless spires and 
 domes of the churches. 
 
 November 6 we made preparations for leaving Venice, the 
 city of wonders, but first we paid a visit to St. Mark's, not 
 without a feeling of regret that we should see it no more. 
 Before leaving we passed through the Grand Canal, and had a 
 fine view of the famous palaces on its borders ; many of them 
 appeared like miracles of architectural beauty. A number of 
 them are faced with colored marbles, generally stained by age, 
 though some have retained thier beauty. What a splendid 
 picture the Grand Canal must have presented in the prosperous 
 days of Venice ! 
 
 Our route to Padua, a little more than twenty miles south- 
 west from Venice, afforded but few objects of special interest, 
 except the railway over the bay. We arrived at our place of 
 destination in the afternoon, and went to the hotel Albergo Croce 
 d' Oro, but found no English-speaking attendants, therefore 
 were obliged to make French the medium of communication, 
 since our Italian was quite limited in the use of words. 
 
 Padua is said to have been founded by Antenor, the brother 
 of Priam, both prominent characters in the Trojan War ; it 
 was called by the Romans Patavium, and was an important 
 city of Northern Italy. As early as 302 B. C. it had acquired 
 such strength that its citizens were able to resist the Spartans 
 under Cleomenes, who were defeated with great loss. This 
 ancient city, like so many others, has passed through great 
 changes and misfortunes. It was plundered by Attiia, and 
 subsequently razed to the ground by other brigands, therefore 
 the modern town has fewer antiquities than some others. It 
 has a celebrity for having been the birthplace of Livy, the his-
 
 A SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. 14;-, 
 
 torian. It is surrounded by walls, ditches, and otlier means of 
 fortification, and took part in the wars of the Guelphs and 
 Ghibellines during the Middle Ages. 
 
 The University of Padua, founded by the Emperor Fred- 
 erick II., in 1238 A. D., has been a celebrated seat of learn- 
 ing in the past, and at the present day has sixty or more pro- 
 fessors and teachers, and one thousand students. Some of the 
 other objects and places of interest are the Botanical Garden, 
 among the most celebrated in Europe, the iAIuseum of Natural 
 History, Observatory, Chemical Laboratory, Library Avith one 
 hundred and twenty thousand volumes and fifteen hundred 
 MSS., besides numerous churches, palaces, theatres, hospital, 
 and celebrated works of art. The present population is esti- 
 mated to be from sixty thousand to seventy thousand. 
 
 The school of painting established here attracted artists from 
 other places, and exercised considerable influence on that of 
 Venice, and even some of the Florentine masters were allured 
 thither. The churches, like others of Italy, are, in fact, mu- 
 seums of art. The Basilica of St. Antonio, begun in 1256 
 A. D., to which additions were made at different times, was 
 entirely rebuilt in 1749, after its destruction by fire. It has 
 seven domes, and is larger than St. Mark's at Venice. The 
 paintings and frescos which adorn this church are the works 
 of some of the celebrated masters, and represent chiefl}- 
 Scripture scenes and characters, and events in the lives of the 
 saints. In and about the church are several monuments 
 of notable persons, including admirals and generals. An 
 Augustinian church of the Middle Ages is peculiar for the 
 absence of aisles, columns, and pillars ; but here are seen two 
 monuments of the Carrura princes, ancient lords of Padua. 
 Near one of the gates is the monument to Petrarch, erected in 
 1874, the five hundredth annivei-sary of his birth. 
 
 Several monuments are dedicated to graduates of the Uni- 
 versity who have distinguished themselves, while stiitues of 
 Dante and Giotto, and a double row of figures, adorn other 
 places. The Cathedral, built the latter part of the sixteenth 
 century, has no special attractions, though the baptistery, of
 
 146 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 the twelfth century, is adorned with ancient frescos. The 
 palace, now the Municipio, erected in the eleventh century, 
 is remarkable for its great hall, two hundred and seventy- 
 three feet long, ninety broad, and seventy-eight high, claimed 
 to be one of the largest in the world. 
 
 The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, through which a small 
 stream flows, is of considerable size, while around the centre 
 are arranged the statues of several distinguished Italians, 
 including Tasso, Ariosto, Petrarch, and Galileo, all bearing 
 the marks of decay. We were disappointed in the Uni- 
 versity Building, which was situated in a narrow street, 
 and enclosed by other houses, while the ground floor was 
 occupied by shops. Before leaving Padua we made another 
 visit to the Church of St. Antonio, November 7, when roses 
 in the gardens were in full bloom, reminding us we were 
 in a southern climate. This church has some beautiful mod- 
 ern painted glass, not often seen in Northern Italy. One rose 
 window was exquisitely beautiful, and the sculptures were 
 very profuse. 
 
 The journey from Padua to Bologna was through a region 
 of considerable historical interest. The railway passes a small 
 town said to have been the home of Petrarch, and also of Este, 
 with the ruins of the ancestral palace of the distinguished 
 family of the same name ; Rovego, with its leaning towers, 
 built in the tenth century, and Ferrara, raised to eminence by 
 Duke Alphonso II., the patron of Tasso and Guarini. The 
 sad and romantic story of Tasso has invested this city 
 with peculiar interest. Alphonso was the last of the noble 
 house of Este, whose dukes were ardent admirers and collec- 
 tors of the paintings of Raphael and other masters. Titian 
 painted his Cristo della Moneta, now in the Dresden gallery 
 at Ferrara, the birthplace of Savonarola. 
 
 We passed Monti Euganei, a volcanic chain of hills with 
 warm springs and mud baths, and quarries of trachyte. Ar- 
 riving at Bologna we went to the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, 
 a rather small square adorned with a fountain and a bronze 
 statue of Neptune. In the vicinity are some noted buildings,
 
 A SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. 1-17 
 
 namely the Palazzo Publico and tlie Palazzo del Podesta, where 
 the young poet Prince Henry, son of the Emperor Frederick 
 II., having been taken prisoner at the battle of Fossalta, 
 1249, during the sanguinary struggle between the Guelplis and 
 the Ghibellines, was detained a prisoner the remainder of his 
 life, a period of twenty-two yeai-s. 
 
 On one side of the Piazza stands the Church of St. 
 Petronio, the largest in Bologna, and of the Tuscan 
 Gothic style ; it is three hundred and eighty-eight feet in 
 length and one hundred and fifty-six in widcli. The twelve 
 massive colunnis of the interior, with their plain capitivls, 
 harmonize with other parts of the building, which is less 
 decorated than many others. A few of the chapels are worthy 
 of note, especially that of the Bacciocchi, containing the monu- 
 ments of this family. On one side is the monument of the 
 Princess Elisa Bacciocchi, sister of Napoleon and grand duchess 
 of Tuscany, who died in 1820, and also of her husband Felix. 
 It represents an angel, and the statues of the deceased, one 
 on each side, while a crown and shield supported by two figures, 
 is placed above. Opposite to this monument is that of two of 
 their children, with a weeping female figure at one end, and 
 that of an angel at the other. This church — St. Petronio — 
 contains some paintings, frescos, and sculptures worthy of note, 
 and a double-faced clock, one side giving the solar, and the 
 other the mean time, while on the pavement is a meridian line 
 di-awn by Cassini, the astronomer. The Emperor Charles V. 
 was crowned in this church by Pope Clement VII. 
 
 The Church of St. Domenico is more highly ornamented 
 than St. Petronio, and contains the tomb of tlie saint, with its 
 reliefs representing scenes in his life by different artists. Some 
 of the inlaid stalls of the choir are said to be the finest in Italy. 
 The tomb of the captive Prince Henry, before mentioned, is on 
 one side of the choir, while in the left transept are tliose of 
 Guido Rene, and the female artist, Elisabetta Serani, who was 
 poisoned in 1665, at the age of twenty-six ; some of her paint- 
 ings adorn this church. 
 
 The Madonna di St. Luca, the pilgrimage-church, is com-
 
 148 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 paratively modern, having been erected, in 1731, on a fortified 
 eminence two miles southwest from the city. We decided to 
 make a visit to this church, and to the Campo Santo at the 
 same time ; therefore passing through the arcades of the Via di 
 Saragozza to the gate of the same name, on the west side of 
 the city, we were directed by a guide who had followed us 
 with the hope that he might be engaged to conduct us to Monte 
 della Guardia, a fortified hill on which the Church of St. Luca 
 stood. Arcades lead to the top, a distance of one mile, over a 
 pebbly walk, and comprise six hundred and thirty-five arches. 
 Our persistent guide was very serviceable, and perhaps indis- 
 pensable, though at first we considered him superfluous. Fine 
 views were enjoyed from the summit of the hill of the city, 
 and adjacent regions covered with beautiful villas, trees, gar- 
 dens, terraces, etc. The church is reached by a very long 
 succession of steps, and is decorated in the interior with rich 
 marbles of various kinds. One specimen was of different 
 shades of green, with delicate tints of pink and other colors. 
 The marbles of the Church of the Jesuits in Venice were more 
 numerous, but those of St. Luca were more beautiful. There 
 is a tradition that this church contains a picture of the Virgin 
 painted by St. Luke, which was brought from Constantinople 
 in 1160. The view from the top of the hill extends from the 
 Apennines to the Adriatic. The Campo Santo is reached 
 through another arcade ; but the way is level and less fatiguing 
 than to the church. It was formerly a Carthusian monastery 
 until 1801, when it was devoted to its present use; a small 
 church is connected with it, containing some pictures by Elisa- 
 betta Serani and other painters. The cloisters contain ancient 
 tombstones taken from suppressed churches, as far back as the 
 thirteenth century, while the arcades contain monuments of 
 white marble, the work of modern times, generally very beau- 
 tiful ; that of Letizia Murat Pepoli, who died in 1859, is 
 especially fine. The statue of Christ occupies the centre, and 
 the two angels poised on the corners look as if they were hov- 
 ering in the air ; it seems a mystery how they preserve their 
 balance. The monument of her father. King Murat, is a very
 
 A SECOND VISIT TO ITALY. 14<J 
 
 elaborate piece of sculpture. In the rotunda are seen tlie busts 
 of several distinguished professors of tlrt) present era, iw xMez- 
 zofanti, the celebrated linguist, Galvani, the scientirK; discov- 
 erer, Costa, and otliers. 
 
 The Leaning Towers of Bologna attract the notice of 
 strangers on account of their novelty. The Torre Asinelli, 
 erected 1109 A. D., which is finished, is two hundred and 
 seventy-two feet in height, and is three feet five inches 
 out of perpendicular; the unfinished Torre Garisenda, begun 
 1110 A. D., is one hundred and thirty-eiglit feet, and leans 
 eight and one-half feet. It is supposed these towers were 
 purposely constructed in this manner ; but there is no pleasure 
 in viewing a structure that threatens to fall. Tlie University 
 of Bologna, founded in 1119 A. D., next to that of Salerno, is 
 the oldest in Italy, and one of the most celebrated in Europe. 
 It numbered nearly ten thousand students in the tliirteenth 
 century ; but at the present time it has only about four hun- 
 dred, with fifty professors. The anatomy of the human body 
 was first taught here during the fourteenth century, and 
 here galvanism was discovered. This university has num- 
 bered among its professors several ladies, including Novella 
 d' Andrea of the fourteenth centur}^ Laura Bassi, professor of 
 mathematical and physical science, Mme. Manzolina, professor 
 of anatomy, and from 1794 to 1817, Clotilda Tambrone, pro- 
 fessor of Greek. The library, of one hundred thousand 
 volumes, had for a time the celebrated linguist, Jose[)li Mezzo- 
 fanti, of Bologna, for librarian. At the time of his death, in 
 1849, he was familiar with forty-two different languages. 
 
 We were shown some of the recitation-rooms of the uni- 
 versity, with uncushioned benches, and a narrow shelf or rest in 
 front for the book. The desk, or wiiat answered the purpose, 
 was covered with ink spots, and decorated by carvings of cari- 
 catures of the professors, doubtless illustrating the fact that 
 college students are much the same everywhere. 
 
 The Accademia delle Belle Arti, or Academy of Fine Arts, 
 comprises the Pinacoteca or Picture Gallery, with paintings 
 chiefly of the Bologna School, as Rene, Caracci, Guercino*
 
 150 PLEASANT MEMOEIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 Francia, Perugino, Domenicbino, and others. Probablj'' the best 
 known painting was the original St. Cecilia, by Raphael, in 
 which are the traces of the great master's hand. It occupies 
 the centre of a group, consisting of SS. Paul, John, Augustine 
 and Mary Magdalene. There is an exalted idealism in the 
 figures, verging upon the supernatural or seraphic. Raphael's 
 figures are never gross, like those of some of the old 
 masters, who evidently believed in a literally muscular 
 Christianity, for some of their saints might pass for a Hercules, 
 in their physical development. The artists of such pictures 
 certainly exhibited a thorough knowledge of anatomy, however 
 greatly they may have failed to represent the spiritual nature 
 of their subjects. Their little cherubs are almost always 
 bulky, and look like plump babies, with about as much de- 
 veloped mental faculties as infants display. 
 
 Bologna is both ancient and modern ; some of the buildings 
 are very old, while others have been renovated and appear 
 new. It may be, par excellence, called the city of arcades, 
 since nearly all the public passage-ways have them, at least on 
 one side, and many on both, while the streets are broader than 
 those of most other Italian towns. With one hundred and 
 thirty churches and twenty monasteries, and the addition of a 
 celebrated university, the citizens should be among the most 
 enlightened in Italy ; but there are a great many poor and 
 wretched people found here, as in all other Italian cities. 
 
 St. Stefano is an architectural pile, comprising seven differ- 
 ent churches, with ancient columns and mural paintings, and, 
 according to an inscription, was founded on the site of a 
 temple to Isis ; it is supposed to have been built in the fifth 
 century. The numerous churches are not all on the same 
 level, and were constructed at different periods. Each one in 
 this ancient town has some peculiar feature, either in its struct- 
 ure, decoration, or works of art, which is true of those of other 
 cities. "We will not leave Bologna without mentioning the 
 Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, one of the most interesting in Italy, 
 which occupies the centre of the city, and is adorned with a 
 fountain, and a bronze statue of Neptune.
 
 FLORENCE, PERUGIA, TERNI. 151 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 Florence^ Perugia, Terni. 
 
 Early in the morning of November 10 we left Bologna for 
 Florence. The scenery along the route was interesting, with 
 its beautiful valleys and attractive villas. The Apennines are 
 crossed at Pracchia, forty-five and one-half miles from Bologna, 
 at an elevation of two thousand and twenty-four feet, and 
 nearly fifty tunnels are passed, some of them being of consid- 
 erable length ; the longest was twelve and one-third miles. 
 Pistoja, one of the largest towns on the route, is very ancient, 
 and noted for its manufacture of guns and iron wares. Pistols 
 are said to have been invented here, and received their name 
 from the town. Prato, the next place of importance, is known 
 for the manufacture of straw-plaiting; while at Monteferrato, 
 three miles from the latter town, are the quarries of serpentine, 
 called Verde di Prato, used in the construction of some of the 
 public buildings of Florence and other cities of Tuscany. 
 
 As soon as possible after our arrival in Florence, we went 
 to see the famous Duomo, which far exceeded our expectations 
 in regard to size. Its immense dome rising from the centre 
 vastly enhances the magnitude and grandeur of the building, 
 which has just been cleansed by acids to give the marbles a 
 fresh look, corresponding to those of the fa9ade now being 
 finished. The architectural designs of beautiful tracery and 
 mosaics about the windows are exquisite, while the interior is 
 veiy impressive, with its immense size and grandeur ; but many 
 visits must be made before its beauties can be understood. 
 
 The Campanile — who that has read Ruskin does not re- 
 member it — is indeed a gem in architecture, and near is the 
 Baptisteiy, with Giotto's Bronze Dooi-s, copies of which are 
 so familiar. We exchanged our hotel for a pension in Via
 
 152 PLEASAJSIT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 Maggio, near the Picture Gallery, where we found both American 
 and English guests. Our first visit to the gallery was for a 
 general idea of the collection, to be studied afterwards in detail. 
 Many of the paintings being originals of some we had examined 
 in other collections, seemed like familiar objects. Thanks to 
 the arts of engraving and photography for even the imperfect 
 knowledge they impart ; their study, with suitable descrip- 
 tions, is a good preparation for travel. 
 
 A second visit was made to the Cathedral, which deepened 
 our impressions of its grandeur and the beauty of its decora- 
 tions. It was begun in 1294, and was not completed at the 
 time of our visit; it is in the Italian Gothic style. The dome 
 exceeds in size that of St. Peter's at Rome, being three hun- 
 dred and fifty -two feet to the top of the lantern. The church 
 is five hundred and fifty-six and one-half feet in length, and 
 three hundred and forty-two across the transepts. The fa9ade, 
 when completed, will add greatly to the beauty and mag- 
 nificence of the exterior. The Cathedral, Campanile, and 
 Baptistery form a group of remarkable buildings, of which 
 any city might be proud. We ascended the dome of the Ca- 
 thedral by four hundred and sixty-three steps, a feat less diffi- 
 cult than one would suppose, considering its height, which is 
 three hundred and fifty-two feet from the pavement, and were 
 favored with a prospect not soon forgotten. The morning, 
 December 10, was perfect ; the sky so clear that we could see 
 the regions about the city a long distance off, while Florence 
 itself, with its streets, piazzas, palaces, and churches, reposed 
 at our feet, encircled by hills crowned with lovely villas and 
 olive groves, and in the distance arose the snow-crowned peaks 
 of the Apennines. Near the Duomo the Campanile rises 
 towards heaven, a marvel of architectural beauty. Its exqui- 
 site tracery and lovely tints could better be seen from the 
 dome of the Cathedral than from any other point of observa- 
 tion. This bell-tower begun by Giotto, in 1334 A. D., is a 
 square structure two hundred and ninety-two feet in height, 
 and consists of four stories, the lower one being decorated 
 with reliefs and statues by some of the celebrated masters.
 
 Giotto's 'Powkh, ri.oi;r.N< ic. 
 
 I rii/.i rAl.AiK, l-10i;EN>K.
 
 1
 
 FLORENCE, PERUGIA, TERNL 1.03 
 
 The Pitti Palace is interesting for its ornamental niarl»U*.s 
 and other stones. Some of the doorcases were made of showy 
 breccias of various colors, while a room called the Hall ui 
 Venus contains several tables of different kinds of stones, 
 including marbles, alabastei's, breccias, and others of a great 
 variety of colors. In the Hall of Apollo, the Hall of Mars, 
 and the Hall of Jupiter were articles of very rich marbles and 
 other ornamental stones, including gems ; mosaics of shells, 
 pearls, and corals were almost perfect imitations. Some of the 
 other apartments similarly decorated were the Hall of the 
 Iliad, the Hall of the Stufa, the Hall of tlie Bath, the Hall of 
 Ulysses, and the Hall of Prometheus. Almost everything in 
 the vegetable kingdom is imitated here by art. One table, 
 with a foot of bronze, representing the four seasons, made in 
 the royal manufactory of Florence, required fourteen yeai-s for 
 its completion, and is valued at fifty thousand dollars. 
 
 The Poccetti Gallery contains three beautiful tables, two of 
 oriental alabaster, and one of Siberia malachite. The " Corri- 
 dor of the Columns " has two exquisite columns of white orien- 
 tal alabaster, crowned with a porphyry vase. The Hall of 
 Flora contains the celebrated Venus, by Canova, and two 
 tables of rare, light-green alabaster, with mosaics. There were 
 other galleries or halls, with their rich treasures of art, besides 
 those designated. The one for works in Pietra Dura contained 
 some fine specimens of mosaic-work, of large size, made of 
 stones exceedingly beautiful, and very costly. 
 
 The porticos of the Uffizi Palace have twenty-eight modern 
 statues of eminent Florentines. The building contains the 
 celebrated gallery founded by the Medici, the National Library, 
 and the Archives. The Gallery contains between three hun- 
 dred and four hundred statues and other sculptures, and more 
 than thirteen hundred paintings, while the corridor leading to 
 the palace contains about ten thousand engravings, and a large 
 number of original drawings, selected from thirty-three thou- 
 sand belonging to the Galleiy. Besides these collections there 
 are six hundred tapestries, forming a part of the UlVizi 
 Gallery, some of which cover the walls of the corridor. The
 
 154 PLEASAXT MEMORIES OF FOREIGX TRAVEL. 
 
 Hall of Portraits contains the likenesses of distinguished 
 painters executed by themselves, and occupying two rooms. In 
 the Tribune are seen some of the most valuable works of the 
 collection, comprising Raphael's Farnarina and Madonna of the 
 Goldtincli. The Madonna of the Well has been attributed to 
 him, but the authenticity is doubtful. For statues there are 
 the Venus di Medici, found at Hadrian's Villa, the Wres- 
 tlei's, the Dancing Fawns, and a small statue of Apollo. The 
 room of the Venetian School contains two tables of verde 
 antico, which are worthy of notice, and in the Hall of Baraccio 
 are four tables of Florentine mosaic, one of which is ex- 
 quisitely beautiful, consisting of various precious stones, 
 arranged to represent shells, flo^^'ers, leaves, fruit, and other 
 designs, on a ground of black marble. Another table affords 
 landscapes in mosaic, bordered with silver and gems, while the 
 other two are ornamented with various devices, one of 
 them with a string of pearls and a ribbon of lapis-lazuli, and 
 pink and white chalcedony. The scales of marine animals 
 are very correctly imitated. Other rooms contain specimens 
 of the Flemish, German, and Italian schools. The Cabinet of 
 Gems affords a study for these most beautiful objects of the 
 material world, but we vdW only mention a table with the 
 centre of Persian lapis lazuli covered with a view of ancient 
 Leghorn, in mosaic. 
 
 Before leaving Florence for Rome we paid another visit 
 to the Cathedral and Baptistery. The latter has a great 
 antiquity, having been built in the seventh century; its most 
 noted feature is the bronze doors. The one on the south was 
 the work of Pisano, and contains bas-reliefs representing the 
 life of St. John ; the other, facing the Cathedral, was made by 
 Ghiberti, who devoted twenty years to the work, and contains 
 the history of Christ's incarnation. 
 
 The new facade of the Cathedral is unfinished, though at the 
 time of our visit workmen were busy in completing it. The 
 material used corresponds to that of the other parts of the 
 building, namely, white marble from Carrara, green serpentine 
 from Prato, and a dark-red stone which the workmen said was 
 from Siena; the doore have some fine wood carving.
 
 FLORENCE, PERUGIA, TEUNI. 155 
 
 Though Florence cannot claim so great antiquity as some 
 other Italian cities, yet it is one of the most beautiful and 
 interesting, and fomis one of the great art centres of Europe, 
 and the "focus of Italian intellectual life," while its historical 
 reminiscences are intensely interesting; but with its inesti- 
 mable treasures of art, its palaces and piazzas, its churches and 
 other historical buildings, the traveller cannot always tarry 
 here, and this is one of the unpleasant incidents we must meet. 
 It is not surprising that tourists have pronounced so decided 
 eulogiums upon "la bella Firenze," though we must confess 
 that the frequent rainy days somewhat marred our pleasure. 
 
 On a fine morning, December 17, we left Florence for 
 Perugia, on our journey to Rome. The scenery between the 
 two cities is agreeably diversified by mountains whose summits 
 are covered with snow, while the valleys afford cultivated 
 fields and olive orchards, with their light-green foliage present- 
 ing an agreeable harmony with the dark-purple and russet- 
 browns of the surrounding objects. We jjassed several towns 
 noted as being the birthplaces of distinguished men, as San 
 Giovanni, the native place of the painters Massicio and S. 
 Giovanni, Arezzio, an ancient town, the birthplace of Ma- 
 cenas, the patron of Virgil and Horace, and, later, of Guido 
 Aritino, the inventor of musical notation, 1000 A. D., of Pe- 
 trarch, Aventino, the satirist, Aretino, the painter, Va- 
 sari, painter and architect, besides several other eminent men. 
 The railway passes Cortona, " a city on a hill," in the vicinity 
 of Lake Trasemene, and is one of the most ancient cities of 
 Italy, the birthplace of the painter Signorelli. The region 
 of Lake Trasemene, the ancient Lacus Trasimenus, is classic 
 ground, having been the scene of the sanguinary struggle be- 
 tween Hannibal and the Romans under the Consul, C. Fla- 
 minius, 217 B. C, in which the latter were utterly defeated 
 and their commander slain. Ruined castles, suggestive of the 
 civilization of the past, are seen at intervals along the route. 
 
 Perugia, delightfully situated on a hiU, or rather a succession 
 of hills, is a quaint walled town, a charming and romantic 
 place where poets and artists might love to linger among its
 
 156 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 antiquated buildings, its fertile valleys, and distant snow-cov- 
 ered mountains. It was known in ancient history as Perusia, 
 the arena of obstinate conflicts both in ancient and mediaeval 
 times. Charming views are afforded from different points of 
 the fertile valleys of Umbria. The narrow, winding streets of 
 Perugia are walled on both sides by high, irregular, and pecul- 
 iar buildings, that denote a great antiquity ; on the whole, it 
 is the most picturesque Italian city we have yet seen. The 
 Cathedral of San Lorenzo, of the fifteenth century, is yet unfin- 
 ished outside, though the interior is very showily decorated, 
 the ceiling being covered with frescos, and the columns with 
 marble imitations, while the chapels are ornamented with beau- 
 tiful and elaborate wood carving, said to be from designs by 
 Raphael. This Cathedral contained the celebrated Sposalizio 
 of Perugino, until it was removed to Caen, Normandy, in 1797. 
 Among the objects of interest are an altar-piece by Signorelli 
 and a sarcophagus with the remains of three popes. The Col- 
 legio del Cambrio, or Chamber of Commerce, contains frescos 
 by Perugino, the master of Raphael, who, it is said, was assisted 
 by his illustrious pupil. The Palace Constabile formerly con- 
 tained a galleiy of paintings in which was a celebrated Ma- 
 donna by Raphael, sold in 1871 to the emperor of Russia for 
 three hundred and fifty thousand francs, or seventy thousand 
 dollars. The Arco di Augusto is an ancient gate dating from 
 the Etruscan period. The University of Perugia, established 
 in 1320, contains a picture gallery, mostly the works of the 
 Umbrian school of art. The Chapel of San Severo, formerly a 
 monastery now a college, contains the earliest frescos of 
 Raphael, and are thought to resemble his Disputa in the 
 Vatican. 
 
 The Perugians evidently regarded us as objects of curiosity, 
 for they watched us closely — old men, young men, priests and 
 women — as if they had never seen foreigners before. Perhaps 
 they never had seen any from America ; but we thought we 
 were conducting with strict propriety when we issued forth 
 from our hotel with our guide-books under our arms, even if we 
 did gaze at every old, peculiar building, every quaint bit of
 
 FLORENCE, PERUGIA, TERNI. 1^1 
 
 ornament, and every time-worn stone. The natives i»laiiily 
 considered us very rjreen or very peculiar. Before Icaviiij^r Un 
 Terni, we took another view of the charming hindscape 
 adjacent to the town. Those travellers who give tlieir atten- 
 tion exclusively to cities lose a great deal of pleasure, for the 
 natural scenery of Italy combines the grand and the beautiful 
 in agreeable variety. 
 
 The route to Terni was no exception to the general rule ; 
 besides, we passed towns on the crests and slopes of hills, some 
 of them surrounded by walls and defended by fortifications, 
 while all along the way groups of dwellings, scarcely deserving 
 the name of village, and single habitations were scattered, to 
 complete a fascinating picture. As we approached Terni, the 
 scenery became more grand and rugged ; the road passed over 
 a limestone region, sometimes between precipitous walls and 
 sometimes through tunnels. Our train moved very slowly 
 until the summit of the pass was reached, when it descended 
 and moved some distance before reaching Terni. This old 
 Roman town stands on a hill or mountain, and is protected by 
 walls and other defences. The streets are very irregular and 
 the buildings very ancient ; but there is a good walk along the 
 ramparts, from which remarkably fine views are obtained of 
 mountains, valleys, and towns of the surrounding regions. 
 There are many agreeable walks shaded by trees in this old 
 town, and in the Episcopal Palace are seen the remains of an 
 ancient structure believed to have been an amphitheatre ; 
 while portions of stone columns were scattered about. The 
 Cathedral is quite large and contains a number of paintings 
 and frescos. 
 
 Two of our party, that originally comprised four tourists, 
 left us at Perugia, to go direct to Rome, while the other two, 
 including the writer, stopped at Terni in order to visit the 
 celebrated Falls, about four miles from the town. The day for 
 our visit was fine. We had previously made arrangements for 
 a carriage and driver, not intending to engage a guide, as we 
 had been told it was quite unnecessary but when we were 
 ready to start, behold, a guide stood waiting to mount the seat
 
 158 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 beside the driver. We remonstrated and insisted we did not 
 need his services, but our self-elected cicerone as strenuously 
 affirmed we did. Finally, the waiter coming to his aid, we at 
 length yielded, partly from compassion and partly to be rid 
 of his importunity. He asked three francs for his services, not 
 a very large sum to be sure. 
 
 The road to Terni Falls lay through a wild, grand, and 
 picturesque region, bounded by high cliffs of limestone, rock, 
 and rugged mountains, with the rich green ilex growing at 
 their bases, while olive and orange trees were on the hill 
 slopes. On our right was seen the picturesque village of 
 Papigno perched upon a high rock. 
 
 The Velino, a tributary of the river Nera, forms the cele- 
 brated falls called the Cascate delle Marmore. The descent is 
 about six hundred and fifty feet ; but the falls are broken into 
 three cataracts, the first being three hundred and thirty feet, 
 while the other two are much less. As the Velino is 
 thoroughly impregnated with lime, the water has a greenish- 
 milky color, and the entire region contains extensive petre- 
 factions. The deposition of lime is gradually raising the bed 
 of the stream, which threatens the adjacent regions with inun- 
 dation. To avoid such a catastrophe, the Romans built a 
 tunnel 271 B. C, which is used at the present time, though it 
 has been necessary to construct several others in addition. 
 The quantity of water is small at this season ; it descends 
 sometimes vertically, and then it dashes over the rocks, break- 
 ing into spray, while at one point the cascade is divided by 
 the projecting precipice. 
 
 During the afternoon of December 19, we left Terni for 
 Rome, where we intended to spend some time. Our journey 
 was through a region of beautiful and picturesque scenery, 
 varied by mountains clothed in rich purple, whose steep 
 acclivities presented ruined castles. The day of our memora- 
 ble ride to the "Eternal City" closed very appropriately with 
 a glorious sunset and a clear Italian sky. We did not arrive 
 there until evening ; but the bright, full moon enabled us to 
 see distinctly all near objects, so that we had a pretty correct
 
 FLORENCE, PERUGIA, TERNL I59 
 
 idea of that part of the city through which we passed from the 
 railway station, opposite the Baths of Diocletian to our liotel, 
 the Milano, in Via Santa Chiara, where we joined our friends. 
 
 We have now before us the most interesting scenes of all 
 our travels, which carry us back to the remote i)ast, and are 
 connected directly or remotely with nearly all the nations of 
 the world. 
 
 We intend to spend several months here, studying its 
 antiquities and its treasures of art, before we proceed to 
 Naples, the end of our journey towards the south, when we 
 retrace our steps, and visit some of the Western Italian towns 
 on our return to Paris.
 
 160 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 CHAPTER XT. 
 
 Borne. 
 
 The first place to visit in this city of wonders was the 
 Colosseum; therefore after dinner, our party started for this 
 purpose. The Colosseum by moonlight ! What associations 
 are linked with this historical building ! We had often seen it 
 represented by art, but now we actually stood in the arena, 
 and saw the lofty walls crumbling to ruins, but still vast and 
 majestic, and under the magical effect of moonlight fasci- 
 nating and awe-inspiiing. We passed the Forum on our way ; 
 but the view of the Colosseum was sufficient for our first at- 
 tempt at sight-seeing. The next day, December 20, was given 
 to St. Peter's, the Castle of St. Angelo, and the Pantheon, the 
 last two being relics of old Rome. 
 
 St. Peter's is grand and spacious, and surpasses any repre- 
 sentations of the pen or brush. It is rich in marbles, statues, 
 pictures, and architectural decorations, yet it is not to these 
 alone it owes its inexpressible power, but it is its magnitude, 
 combined with these, that renders it so conspicuous. The size 
 of the building, as seen from the front, is at first disappoint- 
 ing, inasmuch as it appears far less than the reality ; but viewed 
 from the interior, after some effort of the imagination, its 
 immensity begins to be appreciated. When contemplating any 
 grand and beautiful object, in the first glow of enthusiasm, 
 criticism or even a calm judgment seems cold ; language fails 
 to express the emotions at such a time. Many and prolonged 
 visits must be given to the study of this memorable church 
 before it can be understood. 
 
 The old Castle, associated with some of the most tragical 
 events of the past, stands as an outpost to guard this wonderful 
 temple. The Pantheon, a monument of ancient Rome, with
 
 ROME. -jg^ 
 
 its immense walls and columns, though denuded of tlieir deco- 
 rations, still bears witness to the grandeur of the city in earlier 
 times. The streets of the older parts of the town are narrow 
 and without sidewalks; but one is constantly reminded of the 
 magnificence and departed glory of the " Eternal City," for 
 extensive and remarkable ruins bear witness of the fact. 
 
 The weather being unfavorable for outdoor explorations, we 
 made a visit to some of the notable buildings, particularly 
 the churches. That of Santa Maria is Gothic, the only one of 
 any importance of this style in Rome. The exterior is neither 
 grand nor beautiful, but the nave is fine, with high and mas- 
 sive columns, and the building contains much colored glass 
 and numerous monuments, comprising those of Leo X. and 
 Clement VII., both popes belonging to the Medici family. Here 
 is the Christ of Michael Angelo, which has a bronze shoe on the 
 advanced foot to prevent the devout from wearing it away 
 by frequent kissing. The Dominican Monastery, near the 
 church, is the place where Galileo was compelled to retract 
 his statement that the earth moves round the sun. This mon- 
 astery contains the largest library in Rome, after that of the 
 Vatican, and comprises two hundred thousand volumes and 
 one thousand manuscripts. A bridge over the Via St. Ignazio 
 connects this library with the Bibliotheca Vittorio Emanuele, 
 in the Collegio Romana. 
 
 The Piazza Navona, in the form of a parallelogram, encloses 
 two large fountains and one small one ; that in the centre, 
 made of Pentelic marble, contains the statues of the river gods, 
 of the Danube, the Ganges, the iS'ile, and the Rio della Plata, all 
 the works of Bernini. The obelisk formerly in the Circus Max- 
 entius is placed on the top. At one side of the piazza stands 
 the Church of St. Agnes, decorated with frescos and sculptures 
 representing events in the life of the saint. 
 
 In the afternoon we went to the Piazza del Popolo, and 
 the Pincio, a hill laid out in gardens, walks, and carriage 
 drives. Grand views are afforded from the terraces and tlie top 
 of the hill ; the best view of the dome of St. Peter's is had 
 from this eminence. To the north are the Albion Hills, while
 
 162 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 all along the Tiber, and crowning its numerous hills, reposes the 
 celebrated city, the scene of the memorable events of twenty- 
 five centuries, and is to-day restless with the on-rushing tide 
 of the nineteenth century. " It bears in its bosom the buried 
 relics of an effete culture, and upon its surface the activities of 
 a new civilization." Rome is both ancient and modern ; it has 
 one hand on the past, and the other on the present. Before 
 leaving the Pincio, December 21, we gathered a rose growing 
 in the open air, which describes better than words the climate 
 of this latitude. 
 
 The site of the Church of Santa Maria del Popolo, founded 
 1099 A. D., was the burial-place of the Emperor Nero, and 
 tradition says it was haunted by evil spirits until a church was 
 built on the spot. It contains a large number of monuments, 
 some of which are magnificent. The vaulting of the dome is 
 decorated with eight mosaics by Delia Pace, after the cartoons 
 of Raphael, representing the creation of the heavenly bodies. 
 One of the chapels is supported by columns of Sicilian jasper, 
 and is very rich in marbles of divers kinds. The church is 
 contiguous to the Augustinian monastery where Luther re- 
 sided during his visit in Rome. 
 
 The gallery of paintmgs in the Corsini Palace comprises 
 selections from a number of the old masters, as Carlo Dolce, 
 Titian, Caracci, Rubens, Rembrandt, Claude Lorrain, Murillo, 
 the two Poussins, Vernet, Salvator Rosa, Fra Angelico, and 
 others, but not all of the paintings possess great merit. The 
 landscapes were generally good, and some of them excellent. 
 One room contains the celebrated Corsini Vase in chased work, 
 representing the atonement of Orestes, while in another apart- 
 ment Christina, Queen of Sweden, died in 1689. The library of 
 the palace occupies eight rooms, and contains one of the largest 
 collections of engravings in the world. The gardens in the 
 rear of the palace extend to the Janiculus, and afford from 
 their heights excellent views of the city. 
 
 Returning to the churches, the Santa Maria dell' Anima, the 
 German national church, is very peculiar, with the fa9ade ex- 
 sending a considerable distance above the roof. It contains a
 
 HOME. 1G3 
 
 monument to Hadrian of Utrecht, preceptor of the Eiiii)eror 
 Charles V. Santa Maria delle Pace, near the German church, 
 contains Raphael's Sybils, ranked among tlie greatest of liis 
 compositions, and also the most admired of his frescos. They 
 comprise the Sybils of Cumae, of Persia, of Phrygia, and the 
 aged Sybil of the Tiber, recording the revelations concerning 
 Christ. Above the Sybils are the Prophets, by Timoteo della 
 Vite. A veiy ancient Madonna, with a sweet and pensive 
 countenance, is placed over the high altar, and is held in great 
 reverence. Newly married couples celebrate their first Mass 
 after the wedding in this church. St. Andrea della Vallo is 
 interesting for its monuments and rich marbles. The Strozzi 
 Chapel has some of the works of Angelo and Domenichino, 
 and the monuments of Popes Pius II. and Pius III., and the 
 Barberini Chapel has several statues. SS. Luca e Martina, near 
 the Marmatine prison, consists of an upper and a lower church, 
 with several monuments. The tombs of the saints are of 
 bronze, with some fine work. 
 
 The Capitoline Museum, on the left of the Capitol, contains 
 antique statues, including some of the master-pieces and cele- 
 brated works well known to lovers of art, as the Dying Gaul, 
 the Venus of the Capitol, the Satyr of Praxitiles, Flora, tiiken 
 from the Villa of Hadrian, a Boy struggling with a Goose, the 
 busts of many Greeks and Romans, reliefs in marble and frag- 
 ments of sculptures and architectural ornaments. A fountain 
 in the court contains a colossal statue of a river god, with a 
 shell in one hand, where the answers to Pasquino were placed. 
 Santa Maria in Campitelli, it is claimed, has a miraculous 
 image of the Virgin to whose influence the cessation of the 
 plague in 1656, has been ascribed. The frescos of Pozzi adorn 
 the Jesuit church of St. Ignazio. 
 
 The Colosseum, Arch of Constantine, Arch of Titus, the 
 Basilica of Constantine, the Temple of Venus and Roma, are 
 all relics of the past glory and magnificence of this enchanting 
 city. The ruins of Rome constitute its chief attractions, and 
 carry one back to the time of the Republic and of the Empire. 
 The Colosseum, with its immense arches and buttresses, ita
 
 164 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 walls and flights of steps, its arena, and everything connected 
 with it, was on a grand scale. The broken columns of marble 
 and granite, the beautifully carved capitals strewn about, con- 
 vey some idea of its magnificence. The ancient Church of SS. 
 Cosma e Domino, erected 526 A. D., contains mosaics of the 
 sixth century, thought by some to be the most beautiful in 
 Rome. 
 
 The Palace of the Conservatori, near the Capitol, is a mu- 
 seum of antique bronzes and the Proto Moteca or Picture Gal- 
 lery of the Capitol. Many of the ancient works of art, found 
 in the excavations on the Palatine, are placed in this museum. 
 The busts of several Italians distinguished in art, science, and 
 literature, together with those of a few from other nations, are 
 arranged along the corridor leading to the Picture Gallery. 
 These Italians present a fine type of the human family, and 
 would be noticed as remarkable men. Italy has taken good 
 care to perpetuate the names of her distinguished sons, of 
 whom she has had a large number, by statues, busts, paintings, 
 and monuments scattered throughout her cities. 
 
 Among the more notable bronzes of the Conservatori are 
 the " Wolf " in the early Etruscan style, perhaps the same as 
 that of 296 B. C; the Thorn-Extractor, and the bust of Junius 
 Brutus, the first consul. The collection of paintings is neither 
 large nor very celebrated ; some of the more notable were an 
 unfinished painting of a Redeemed Spirit, by Guido Rene ; a Mag- 
 dalen, by the same artist ; the Cumsean Sybil, by Domenichino ; 
 a Persian Sybil, by Guercino ; Madonna and Saints, by 
 F. Francia; David and a St. Cecilia, byRomanelli; Madonna in 
 Glory, by Garofalo ; Europa by Guido Rene, several portraits 
 by Van Dyck, Titian, Tintoretto, and other masters. The art 
 collections of Rome are scattered instead of being concen- 
 trated, as they are in some other cities, therefore more time is 
 needed to study them. Many of the celebrated works are 
 found in the private galleries of Italian nobles, either in their 
 town palaces or their country villas outside the walls. 
 
 We made another visit to St. Peter's ; but as it was a festal 
 day, we could not ascend the dome, therefore we examined the
 
 
 
 ..^.Ai- 
 
 <j^ 
 
 5. ^.u«»« 
 
 jsas"-^' 
 
 cm i;< II OK St. Pktek, Uomk. 
 
 Fountains and uiii:i,i>iv, si. Tevek'?'-
 
 ROME. 1G5 
 
 interior. It is well lighted, which cannot be said «.f many 
 other churches, hence the pictures in mosaic were seen to ad- 
 vantage. Tliere is the idea of space, magnitude, and gran- 
 deur suggested to the mind; notliing is confused, no crowding 
 of dift'erent objects often seen in other similar iMiildings. The 
 gilding and ornaments of the ceiling and the marbles are 
 rich and sometimes gorgeous, but even this renowned church 
 is not faultless. The baldacchino under the dome seems out of 
 place, and not in harmony with other parts, while some of the 
 decorations are paltry ; the statues in the niclies of the col- 
 umns are not considered the best of their kind, and though 
 some of the monuments are good, others are wanting in t;iste. 
 The Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the oldest in 
 this city, if not in Christendom, a basilica, and one of the tine pa- 
 triarchal churches of Rome, over which the Pope presides, was, 
 according to tradition, founded by order of the Virgin, and con- 
 tains several boards of the Manger. The nave, marble columns, 
 and mosaics are claimed to be a part of an original edifice, 
 built 432 A. D. The interior is two hundred and seventy- 
 nine feet long and fifty-seven wide ; the nave has forty-two 
 Ionic columns supporting an architrave adorned with mosaics 
 of the fifth century. The high altar has a canopy supported 
 by four columns of red porphyiy. This church contains the 
 tombs of several popes, and was selected, it is said, by Pius 
 IX. as his final resting-place. 
 
 The Sistine Chapel is particularly gorgeous in marbles, 
 bronze, and sculptures, and the Borghese Chapel opposite highly 
 decorated ; it contains an ancient picture of the Virgin, 
 painted, according to tradition, by St. Luke. 
 
 Near Santa Maria Magrgfiore stands the church of St. Pressede, 
 822 A. D., remarkable for the Orto del Paradiso, or chapel, in 
 which is placed the column at which Christ was scourged. (No 
 incredulous person should visit the Roman churches.) Ladies 
 are not allowed to enter the sacred precincts except on special 
 occasions. A spot is pointed out where St. Praxedis collected 
 the blood of the martyrs, who suffered in the early persecutions 
 of the Christians.
 
 166 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 St. Paolo Fuore le Mura, or St. Paul's beyond the walls, is 
 between one and two miles from the gate, and is one of the 
 most beautiful of the Roman churches; it was founded 388 
 A. D., and was connected by subterranean arcades with the 
 city. A large part of the building was consumed by fire in 
 1833, therefore the present structure is largely modern. It is 
 three hundred and ninety feet in length, one hundred and 
 ninety-five in width and seventy-five in height, in the interior. 
 The double row of columns in the nave, are made of granite 
 from the Simplon ; six columns of oriental alabaster were pre- 
 sented by the Viceroy of Egypt, and the beautiful malachite 
 pedestals were given by the Emperor Nicholas of Russia. The 
 nave and transepts contain mosaic portraits of all the popes, 
 each five feet in diameter, while colossal statues of SS. Peter 
 and Paul are placed in the nave. The rosso and verde antico 
 which decorate the Confessio were brought from the ancient 
 quarries of Greece, recently discovered. One of the chapels 
 contains a statue of St. Stephen, and two paintings represent- 
 ing his revelation and martyrdom. A monastery connected 
 with the church affords beautiful columns and mosaics. 
 
 The Church of St. Paolo is exceedingly costly and magnificent, 
 yet it is situated in a sparsely settled region on the compagna, 
 occupied by a rural class, generally poor and ignorant, hence, 
 the question, why were all this wealth and decoration lavished 
 upon it? The splendor and magnificence of most Italian 
 churches are beyond description, and in painful contrast to the 
 poverty and wretchedness of the lower classes, many of whom 
 depend upon alms for a living. 
 
 The Baths of Diocletian (the ruins are still to be seen) en- 
 closed a circumference of six thousand feet. One of its circu- 
 lar buildings is now used for the Church of St. Bernardo, while 
 a large vaulted hall was converted into the Church of Santa 
 Maria degli Angeli, by M. Angelo, but since altered; the painters 
 Maratta and Rosa are buried in the latter. It contains six- 
 teen granite columns, forty feet in height. 
 
 The Barbarini Palace is an imposing building with a court 
 in which is placed the statue of Thorwaldsen, by Wolff. The
 
 ROME. 107 
 
 gallery of paintings contains Kapliael's Fornarina and Guido 
 Rene's Beatrice Cenci, both of which are well known by 
 copies and engravings. We were little interested in the 
 former, but our attention was arrested by the sweet, sad fact; of 
 the Cenci. It is said to be a correct portrait of the ]>eautiful 
 captive whom the artist visited in prison the day before her 
 execution. It is a countenance that bears the impress of suf- 
 fering, more mental than physical, though Beatrice had been 
 subjected to indescribable torture ; it expresses a resig- 
 nation to her fate, and an innocence that refutes the foul 
 calumnies that have been circulated, to excuse, doubtless, the 
 injustice and cruelty of her execution. In the same room are 
 the portraits of her own mother and step-mother Lucretia 
 Cenci, who suffered the penalty of death at the same time. 
 The Fornarina is unlike that of the UlFizzi gallery except, 
 perhaps, the eyes. The Barbarini painting is thinner in flesh 
 and less voluptuous, while the figure is nearly nude; tlie one 
 at Florence is clothed, but neither conveys any other idea than 
 that of a woman possessing physical beauty. From the Bar- 
 barini palace we went to see Guido Rene's Aurora. 
 
 The Palace of Rospigliosi, erected on the site of the Baths 
 of Constantine, is said to contain valuable works of art, but 
 it is not easy to get access to the rooms of the palace, though 
 the Casino containing the celebrated painting is open to visit- 
 ors during two days of the week. The exquisite fresco is on 
 the ceiling which renders its study more diflicult. Apollo is 
 represented as driving the chariot of the sun, attended by seven 
 hours preceded by Aurora scattering flowers, while a small 
 divinity is bearing a lighted torch. Language is inadequate 
 to convey a full idea of the beauty of the painting. The ad- 
 mirable disposition of the figures, the exquisite blending of the 
 colors, the glorious effulgence of the rays of light diffused over 
 the figure of the Apollo and imparting a deep warmth to the 
 drapery of those near him, the soft clouds, the sleeping earth 
 below, with the intense blue of the sea, the dark grays of the 
 land, the spirited horses, the grace of the nymphs, in fine, the 
 beauty and gorgeousness of the entire painting, all combine to
 
 168 PLEA SA]^ T 3f EMORIES OF FOREl GN TEA VEL . 
 
 make it one of the most charming frescos known. The colors 
 have retained their freshness in a remarkable degree. 
 
 Another interesting picture was Guido Rene's Andromeda. 
 The beautiful princess is chained to a rock looking down at the 
 hideous monster coming to devour her, and does not see Per- 
 seus, her deliverer, mounted on Pegasus, and just on the point 
 of killing her dangerous foe. Domenichino is represented in 
 this gallery by several pictures, one being the Fall of Man ; 
 while Rubens has some fine paintings representing the Apostles. 
 
 Sabbath on the continent of Europe is very different from 
 that of New England. Here church services are observed for 
 a part of the day, while the remainder is given to pleasure and 
 business. Where form and ceremony constitute the essence of 
 religion, less importance is attached to the spirit of Christianity 
 or the character of its professors provided they observe its out- 
 ward forms. This is to a greater or less extent true in all 
 countries where there is a "state religion." 
 
 Rome is so full of wonders it will require weeks and months 
 to gain a tolerable idea of them, for there is always something 
 new that is old to be studied, either historical or artistic. 
 Every palace, street, and ruin has its tale of romance, its 
 deed of noble daring or of murder, of great suffering or of 
 great luxury. The old Romans were eminent in almost every- 
 thing ; their buildings, their wars and conquests, their vices 
 and crimes. To close the year we made a visit to the Vatican, 
 the most conspicuous object of Mediaeval and Modern Rome. 
 
 The Vatican of the early period was built near the last of 
 the fifth century, but has been rebuilt and enlarged since at 
 different times. Pope Alexander VI. during the last part of 
 the fifteenth century completed it, and as it now exists, it is 
 eleven hundred and fifty-one feet in length, and seven hun- 
 dred and sixty-seven in width, and contains eleven thousand 
 rooms of all sizes, eight grand staircases, and twenty courts. 
 The Sistine Chapel contains many celebrated works of art, 
 such as numerous frescos by distinguished masters, compris- 
 ing those of Michael Angelo, representing the Creation, the 
 Fall of Man, with the Sybils and the Prophets, and the Last
 
 ROME. 1 no 
 
 Judgment. One apartment is called liiu Jiapliacl SUur/a and 
 Loggie, but, unfortunately, tlie frescos after the designs of 
 the great master are more or less injured by time or exposure. 
 
 Thus closed the most eventful year of our pei-sonal ex- 
 periences, full of useful lessons, designated to improve the 
 mind, to broaden and deepen the human sympathies, and 
 inspire the heart with gratitude for Divine jprotectiou and 
 guidance.
 
 170 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 Borne Continued. 
 
 January 1 we called upon some friends and visited a few 
 churches, including San Pietro in Vincoli, which contains the 
 Moses of Michael Angelo. This is a grand subject by a grand 
 master, one just suited to the genius of the great artist. Of 
 all his sculptures, it appears to us the most impressive ; it is 
 sublime. His David is fine, his Pieta is tender, but his Moses 
 is awe-inspiring, a fit embodiment of the Law. Its colossal 
 size, the majesty of the features, the wealth of beard, the 
 penetrating eye, the sternness of countenance, the pose of the 
 figure, give to the statue the similitude of an Olympian Jove. 
 Indeed, he seems more like a divinity than a human being. It 
 is difficult to imagine that this majestic man was one of the 
 meekest of the human race. The Moses was intended for 
 the monument of Pope Julius, to be placed in the church of 
 St. Peter, near the Vatican, but the design was never com- 
 pleted. On the right of the statue, is one of Rachel, and on 
 the left, that of Leah, by the same artist. ' 
 
 The ancient Church of San Lorenzo in Lucina contains the 
 painting of the Crucifixion, by Guido Reni. The Divine 
 Redeemer is on the cross, and with no other being in sight. He 
 is turning his eyes to heaven in his agony, as if suffering from 
 a sense of desertion, which wrung from him the agonizing 
 cry, " My God, my God, why hast thou forsaken me ? " Dark- 
 ness is on all the earth, except the rays of light descending 
 from heaven upon the dying Saviour. This is the most affect- 
 ing and impressive representation of the tragical scene we have 
 ever beheld. In most paintings of this subject the attention is 
 diverted from the Sufferer by many other objects. Numerous
 
 ROME. 171 
 
 figures are introduced representing different idesis, but liere, 
 nothing turns the attention from tlie mournful event — the 
 death of the Son of God. The Church of SS. Triiiitii di Monti, 
 situated on elevated ground, is reached by long flights of stejis 
 from the Piazza di Spagna, where extensive views of the city 
 are obtained. In front, stands an obelisk, and among the 
 pictures is a Descent from the Cross, by Volterra, considered 
 his master-piece. The nuns perform choral service at this 
 church during vespers. 
 
 The gallery of the Borghese Palace has a large and fine col- 
 lection of paintings, by different artists, said to Ije the best in 
 Rome, after the Vatican, and contains a greater number of 
 master-pieces than any other gallery. A few of these are the 
 following : Madonna Vase, by Credi ; St. Stephen, by Francia ; 
 Descent from the Cross, by Garofalo, who has been called the 
 Raphael of Ferrara ; Earthly and Heavenly Love, by Titian ; 
 Circe, by D. Dossi ; the Entombment of Raphael ; the Four 
 Seasons, by Albani ; and the Holy Family, by P. Vecchio. 
 The Colonna Palace contains a collection of some of the 
 eminent masters, comprising landscapes in water colors, by 
 Gasper Poussin, thought to be his best works. The rooms 
 were painted in frescos ; in one of them the paintings were in 
 commemoration of Pope Martin V., who built the palace, in 
 the fifteenth century ; in another room, they were to celebrate 
 the battle of Lepanto, 1571, in which a Colonna led the papal 
 troops. On a staircase leading to one of the halls there is 
 left a cannon ball, where it fell in the revolution of 1849. The 
 gallery contains portraits of the ancient and noble house of 
 Colonna, including one of Vittoria Colonna, taken in her 
 youth. Marble tables, rich inlaid furniture, tiipestries, painted 
 mirrors, antique statues, etc., are seen in this once celebrated 
 palace, now occupied, or part of it at least, by the French 
 Ambassador. 
 
 St. John Lateran, formerly the leading church in Rome, was 
 founded by the Emperor Constantine. It has been destroyed 
 several times as in 896, by an earthquake, and in 1308 and 
 1360 by fire. It is one of the Roman basiUcas, and has been
 
 172 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 the place of meeting for five important ecclesiastical councils. 
 There are twelve pillars in the nave, with colossal figures of 
 the Apostles, and on each side are double aisles, with chapels, 
 monuments, and paintings. Some of the chapels are highly- 
 decorated, especially that of the Torlonias, which contains a De- 
 scent from the Cross in marble relief, and the chapel of the Cor- 
 sini, which is exceedingly rich in antique marbles. The vault 
 below the chapel contains a beautiful Pieta in white marble, 
 illuminated by a burning lamp. The Madonna has an expres- 
 sion of deep, maternal grief, while the features of the Christ are 
 traced in delicate lines. The group has been attributed to 
 Bernini, though its authenticity has been questioned. The 
 canopy over the high altar is very beautiful and is said to 
 contain the heads of SS. Peter and Paul. The Pope alone 
 reads Mass before this altar. At the left is the great altar of 
 the Sacraments, with its four ancient columns of gilt bronze. 
 The Baptistery, for a long time the only one in Rome, is 
 embellished after the manner of other ecclesiastical buildings. 
 
 January 3 we ascended to the top of the dome of St. 
 Peter's, and had a magnificent view of all Rome, — the cam- 
 pagna and the distant mountains, some of whose peaks were 
 covered with snow. On the north were the Sabine hills, and 
 on the south the Alban ; wliile the Vatican, with its append- 
 ages, lay at our feet, and resembled a fortress in some of its 
 features. Including its courts, it covers a very large space. 
 The ascent to the top of St. Peter's is not difficult, and one is 
 well paid for the trouble, on account of the fine views obtained; 
 it gives one an idea of the magnitude of the building, which 
 covers an area of seventy-eight thousand four hundred and 
 eighty square feet. The length is six hundred and thirty-nine 
 feet; height of the nave, one hundred and fifty ; height from the 
 pavement to the top of the cross, four hundred and thirty-five 
 feet, or nearly one hundred less than the Cologne Cathedral ; the 
 dome rises three hundred and eight feet above the roof, which 
 is reached by an inclined plane, and short flights of steps. 
 
 The palaces of the Caesars occupied the Palatine Hill ; their 
 extensive ruins convey some idea of their magnitude and
 
 ROME. 173 
 
 splendor. Judging from the solid whUs of brick, these huild- 
 ings must have been remarkably strong, and it seenis almost 
 incredible that they should ever have been in tlie ruined con- 
 dition they now present. They were literally buried for 
 years, until uncovered by modern explorers. Tlie remains of 
 statues, the rare and beautiful marbles, porphyry, and granite, 
 the brilliant paintings on the walls, and the mosaics of the 
 pavements, all show the luxurious habits of the " masters of 
 the world." There are few objects in this city of wonders so 
 interesting as its ancient ruins. They teach us lessons about 
 the personal habits of the nation that for centuries occupied 
 the first place on the pages of history, as well as the instability 
 of human greatness. One is very forcibly impressed with 
 this latter truth by travel, for there are few places that do not 
 have their ruins, their deserted castles and palaces, their dilapi- 
 dated walls, and unoccupied fortresses, which so emphatically tell 
 the story of decline and ruin. IMany European cities combine 
 both the antique and the modern ; they are perpetually dying 
 and perpetually renewing their existence. This is emphatically 
 true of Rome, where new buildings are erected on the sites of 
 those belonging to earlier periods. It is like an old tree send- 
 ing out new shoots to take the place of decayed brandies. A 
 large number of villas and palaces are seen in most ancient- 
 countries either quite deserted or only partly occupied. 
 
 The Church of the Capuchins, founded by Cardinal Barba- 
 rini, contains a monument of Alexander Sobieski, son of King 
 John III. of Poland. Its most remarkable features are the 
 four vaults containing the bones of about four thousand Capu- 
 chins, arranged in clusters, festoons, or other decorative forms ; 
 while between the arches are the ghastly skeletons of deceased 
 monks, dressed in the costumes of their order. The graves 
 are filled with sacred soil taken from Jerusalem. There is a 
 small chapel in these vaults, where the living monks may come 
 and meditate on their prospective destiny. Such repulsive 
 sights would naturally make death fearful to contemplate, 
 while, on the contraiy, the tombs should be as attractive aa 
 art can make them, for the consolation of friends.
 
 174 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 The Church of San Pietro, in Montorio, was founded by 
 Ferdinand and Isabella, of Spain, in 1500 A. D., on the spot 
 where tradition records St. Peter suffered martyrdom. It is 
 situated on an elevation one hundred and ninety-seven feet in 
 height ; and the prospects from the Via Garibaldi, which 
 winds around the southern side, are superb, affording numer- 
 ous commanding views, comprising the entire city, with its 
 palaces and churches, the Campagna, the villas, the Alban and 
 Sabine mountains, with small villages scattered about, and the 
 ruins of old Rome like ghosts of the past. Add to these the 
 blue sky above and verdant fields below suffused in the rays of 
 a tropical sunset, and we have a charming picture which carries 
 the imagination through nearly thirty centuries of the past. 
 The church was closed at the time of our visit ; but an aged 
 monk admitted us to an open court of the monastery con- 
 nected with it, where the Tempietto, a small circular building 
 with sixteen granite columns, stands on the spot where, it is 
 said, St. Peter's cross was erected. Inside the temple is a 
 chapel with a sitting statue of the Apostle, and below this is 
 another chapel with an opening in the floor. Our guide, a 
 pleasant little fellow about ten years old, took some of the 
 yellow sand as a relic for us to carry away. After the return 
 of the custodian of San Pietra in Montario, we were admitted 
 to the interior, which is decorated by frescos designed by 
 Michael Angelo. Until 1797 it contained Raphael's Transfigura- 
 tion. The unfortunate Beatrice Cenci was buried in this 
 church, though there is not a single memento to mark her 
 grave. 
 
 Following the broad street along which are public grounds 
 with trees and fountains, we come to the Acqui Paolo, the 
 ancient Aqua Trajana, which flowed from a lake thirty-one 
 miles away. The fountain has five separate mouths pouring 
 water into an immense basin. The facade, an imposing struct- 
 ure, is adorned with portions of columns taken from the 
 Temple of Minerva, in Trajan's Forum. Trastevere, once a 
 suburb of the city, but annexed by the Emperor Augustus, is 
 connected with Rome proper by three bridges. The inhabi-
 
 ROME. 175 
 
 tants of tliis region, comprising tlie working classes, chiini to 
 be the most direct descendants of the ancient Romans, and 
 their character and dialect which difTer from those living in 
 other parts of the city, seem to give tliem some right to tljo 
 claim. The Janiculus is an eminence in tliis vicinity, rising 
 two hundred and seventy-five feet, and was once the site of an 
 ancient castle. 
 
 January 6. The Festival of the Epiphany began last even- 
 ing with all sorts of strange noises and curious antics, lasting 
 nearly all night, and the same performances are to continue 
 for some time. The Romans and, indeed, most other Italians, 
 seem to be a mirth-loving people and fond of childish sports. 
 Our relaxation came with the Sabbath, a day of rest to mind 
 and body, which was much needed, for sight-seeing, especi- 
 ally in Rome, is no light task. Walking, which is absolutely 
 necessary to a great extent, over pavements of cobble-stones — 
 sidewalks are rare — is very tedious. One cannot explore 
 ruins and examine churches in carriages. But how soon the 
 novelty of travel passes away, and we come to look at remark- 
 able objects with cool and critical indifference. This is to be 
 regretted, for the greatest pleasure in travel arises from the 
 new ideas and emotions it awakens and stimulates. Yet, with 
 all its fatigue, expenses, and annoyances, who would forego its 
 advantages ? True, many persons travel for the distinction of 
 having visited foreign lands, others, to divert the mind from 
 unpleasant experiences, while another class are influenced by 
 a desire for knowledge and prepare themselves for such an 
 object. With how much greater interest and profit will the 
 travelled reader return to the pages of history, poetry, or gen- 
 eral literature, after having seen the places and works referred 
 to by different authors. 
 
 The Vatican Museum must, of course, be visited many 
 times before its priceless treasures can only be partially 
 studied. It contains the largest collection of statuary and 
 other sculptures in the world, and most of the specimens are 
 antiques belonging to different periods. Casts or copies of 
 many of these works we had seen in the museums of other
 
 176 PLEASANT ME 310 HIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 countries, but copies do not possess the same interest as the 
 originals. The oil paintings of this museum are few in num- 
 ber, compared with some other galleries of Europe, or even in 
 Rome, but they include some of the best works of the old 
 masters, including the Transfiguration, Raphael's last effort, 
 his Madonna of Foligno, his Annunciation, Adoration of the 
 Magi, and some others. Besides these are the Communion of 
 St. Jerome, by Domenichino, pictures by Murillo, Perugino, 
 Titian, a Madonna by Fra Angelico, as well as works by 
 other artists. The fresco paintings are celebrated. The col- 
 lections of this gallery are more difficult of access than most 
 others, since they are farther removed from the populous 
 sections of the city. 
 
 The Doria Palace, one of the most magnificent in Rome, 
 has three fa9ades, one on as many different streets, and con- 
 tains a gallery of fine paintings, with some statuary and antique 
 relics. The different schools of painting are represented, 
 comprising two portraits by Raphael, one of Innocent X., by 
 Velasquez ; the Nativity of Christ, by Garofalo ; landscapes, by 
 Claude Lorrain, considered among his best ; the Moneychangers 
 Disputing, by Quentin Martyn ; landscapes, by Caraccio, 
 Rosa, Poussin, and others ; portraits by Rubens, Giorgione, 
 Titian ; and a Faun, by Rembrandt. The Sacrifice to Apollo, 
 by Lorrain, is especially interesting. The time is evening, 
 and a temple of Apollo, probably the one at Delphi, is repre- 
 sented, while in the foreground are seen several human figures. 
 The "Mill," by the same artist, is an exquisite landscape, in 
 which the charming effect of a skilful arrangement of distance 
 is very effective. Trees occupy the foreground, the middle dis- 
 tance is gradually shaded off, while in the remote distance are 
 seen the faint outlines of snow-covered mountains. The Hero- 
 dias, by Pardenone, is a fine painting, though the subject is 
 treated in a different manner from the usual method. The 
 countenance of Herodias wears a look of tender pity for the 
 murdered prophet whose head she holds in a charger, with the 
 long hair of the martyr falling over her arm, while at her side 
 a female attendant, probably, is looking at the spectacle,
 
 ROME. 177 
 
 touched with a feeling of compassion. Miuillo's Magdalen is 
 quite unlike that of Titian. 
 
 St. Carlo al Corso is the national church of the Lonikirdi, 
 and the resort of the fashionable world ; the altar-piece is con- 
 sidered one of the finest of Maratta's works, but the interior is 
 very showy ; the ceiling is covered with frescos and gihl- 
 ing, and the walls and columns are painted in poor iniitaticni 
 of marble. The Piazza di Pietra contains the Dogaua di Terra 
 or Custom House, with a facade of eleven marble Corinthian 
 columns belonging to an ancient temple, probably that of Nep- 
 tune ; this structure is sometimes erroneously designated the 
 Temple of Antoninus Pius. It once had twenty-three col- 
 umns, while those that remain are defaced and some of their 
 capitols are broken. Januaiy 9 King Victor Emmanuel died, 
 after an illness of a few days, therefore the museums and 
 places of business are closed, but we paid a visit to the Mauso- 
 leum of Augustus, the burial-place of the Roman emperors 
 from his time to that of Nerva. The structure contains mort- 
 uary chambers, over which arises a mound of earth in terraces 
 planted with cypresses and connected with a park in which is 
 placed the statue of Augustus. 
 
 The Vatican Museum being opened on the 11th, we 
 visited the Nuovo Braccio or galleries of statuary. At the 
 entrance are two columns of black and white granite, support- 
 ing the busts of Augustus and Trajan, while many othei-s of 
 distinguished persons rest on half columns of Egyptian granite. 
 Here are seen many celebrated works of antiquity, including 
 statues of Augustus and Silenus in Parian marble, of Euripides, 
 Demosthenes, the Apoxyomenes, and a Wounded Amazon in 
 Pentelic marble, the Nile, Julia, daughter of Titus, in Luni 
 marble, Minerva, supposed to be a copy of the one in gold and 
 ivory, by Phidias, and a Mercury considered one of the finest 
 of Greek art. There is a great variety of granites, marbles, and 
 alabasters comprising rich and rare species. Tlie gallery of 
 paintings is, perhaps, less interesting than many others, but it 
 contains some master-pieces. The battle of Constantine and 
 Maxentius, by Romano, is full of action, and represent^j a re-
 
 178 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 markable combination of the different scenes witnessed on a 
 battle-field. The victor and the vanquished, the wounded and 
 dying men and horses, and the weapons of war, are all mingled 
 in confusion and, to add horrors to the scene, the contest 
 occurred on the bridge and banks of a river, therefore some 
 of the combatants are in the stream. Maxentius with his horse 
 is endeavoring to save himself from sinking in the waves, while 
 Constantine is advancing triumphantly in the midst of the ter- 
 rible carnage. 
 
 After making another journey to the Vatican Museum, we 
 went to the Quirinal Palace, where the king lay in state, but 
 the immense crowd prevented our entering; the next day 
 we gave to rest, a necessary precaution after a week of con- 
 stant strain on the physical and mental powers. Rome is a 
 city of wearisome, if not "magnificent distances," and it re- 
 quires much time and " hard travel " to see all the places of 
 interest, but few cities in the world are so full of attractions to 
 the antiquary. Visiting the Vatican Museum under the pres- 
 ent regulations is attended by delay and fatigue. Tourists are 
 obliged to get a new " permisso," or ticket of admission, every 
 time they go, instead of using one a second time, and in place 
 of entering through the court, formerly used, they must go 
 around St. Peter's, nearly three quarters of a mile, over the 
 rough pavement. It is said these regulations are partly due to 
 the political differences of the pope and the late king. Rome 
 at present is full of people from other Italian cities, to attend 
 the obsequies of Victor Emmanuel, who had won the hearts of 
 his countrymen by his patriotic devotion to their interests. 
 
 The Church of Santa Croce in Gerusalemme is a very ancient 
 basilica, said to have been founded by St. Helen ; it is deco- 
 rated by the frescos of Peruzza, and is situated near some of the 
 notable structures of old Rome, particularly the Amj)hitheatre. 
 This building was one hundred and seventy-one feet in the 
 longest diameter, but there are only sixteen arches remaining, 
 and these are included in the city walls. St. Giovanni in Lat- 
 erano is connected with the old palace of the popes, occupied 
 from the time of Constantine until the removal of the papal
 
 ROME. 179 
 
 see to Avignon, France. This palace, in 1843, \va.s appropri- 
 ated as a museum of heathen and Christian antiquities. Tho 
 statue of Sophocles, said to be the best portrait stiituc known, 
 and one of Neptune, are among the most noted sculiitures. 
 The collection comprises a large number and variety of archi- 
 tectural specimens of ancient art. The Christian department 
 was founded by Pius IX., consequently it was not complete. 
 The few paintings are mediocre; one of them, of a large size, 
 is a copy of the fresco of Domenichino, and represents the 
 martyrdom of St. Andrea. On the whole, the C'hurch of St. 
 John Lateran is highly decorated, and its monument^j, statues, 
 and reliefs are rich and numerous. 
 
 Trajan's Forum comprised several magnificent edifices, de- 
 signed, it is thought, by Apolodoras, of Damascus, and erected 
 by the Emperor Trajan, 111-114 A. D. The statue of the 
 emperor stood in the centre, and on the north side was Trajan's 
 Column, one hundred and forty-seven feet in height, with a 
 spiral band three feet in width, running around the shaft; the 
 figure of St. Peter, on the top, has been substituted for that of 
 the emperor. The reliefs on the column represent scenes in 
 the wars of Trajan with the Dacians, and comprise twenty- 
 five hundred human figures. The forum contains Trajan's 
 Triumphal Arch, a temple dedicated to him, and a library. 
 Some of these sculptured reliefs have been removed to embell- 
 ish the Arch of Constantine, while some of the latter have been 
 used in churches. 
 
 January 17 the funeral ceremonies of the late king were 
 observed. The procession was very long and requireel many 
 hours to pass a given point, and, on the whole, was mag- 
 nificent, comprising, as it did, only persons of rank and oflicial 
 station, and foreign ministers with their attach(?. The military 
 was largely represented by officers, and the navy by marines^ 
 though fewer in number than the soldiers. The Italian nobles 
 are very fine looking and splendidly uniformed, but tlieir 
 marching was open to criticism. In regard to the "rank and 
 file " of the Italian army, it can be said that they are inferior 
 in personelle and in the style of their uniform, to most otlier
 
 180 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 European soldiers. Some of the ban Hex's, on this occasion were 
 very beautiful. The funeral ear, the riderless charger of the 
 dead hero, the veterans who served under him, and the tattered 
 battle flags, afforded a solemn and affecting sight. A large 
 number of Italian cities, if not all of them, with their special 
 banners, were represented in the procession. The foreign am- 
 bassadors and ministers, covered with decorations, afforded an 
 interesting spectacle, in striking contrast to those from the 
 United States, who were conspicuous for the absence of any- 
 such emblems, being dressed in black, without a single decora- 
 tion. A vast concourse of spectators thronged the public 
 streets, balconies, windows, monuments, and indeed every avail- 
 able spot, where the procession was to pass, but there was the 
 greatest good humor and decorous behavior, which proves that 
 the Italians have a keen sense of propriety. We have always 
 found them courteous and obliging, and cannot recollect an 
 instance where they were otherwise. In our journeys we have 
 sometimes been amused at the prejudices of race, a fault as old 
 as nations themselves, the result of narrowness and ignorance 
 which travel will modify, if not eradicate. 
 
 For more than a week little has been accomplished in the 
 labor of sight-seeing, and many tourists, whose time is limited, 
 are feeling impatient at the closing of nearly all public institu- 
 tions. This should teach them that Rome and other Italian 
 cities, and indeed those of nearly all other countries of Europe, 
 confer upon foreigners very great favors by opening their 
 museums free of charge. 
 
 Another " festa " April 18, therefore the galleries were closed. 
 There were so many people in the city from abroad, that it was 
 difficult to obtain carriages, and some of our party were obliged 
 to defer a visit to the Baths of Caracalla ; but after some effort, 
 we secured seats in an omnibus for St. Trinita de Pellegrini, 
 which contains an altar-piece by Guido, and a Crucifixion in 
 which Christ is represented on the cross. This church was 
 erected in 1614, and near it is a hospital for convalescents and 
 pilgrims, providing accommodations for several hundred per- 
 sons at one time. Pilgrims are entertained here at Easter for 
 a number of days.
 
 ROME. lyi 
 
 In the Crucifixion at St. Trinita, two angels stand at tho 
 foot of the cross, two are above, while tlie Father is repre- 
 sented in the clouds of heaven. The other pictures we did not 
 see, as the church was undergoing repairs. Santa Maria, in 
 Monticello, consecrated in 1101 A. D., is remarkable for it« 
 decorations of rich marbles, while the Church of St. Carlo 
 Borromeo, in the form of a Greek cross, contaiiLs j)aintings by 
 some of the celebrated artists. 
 
 The Cenci Palace, situated on a small piazza of the same 
 name, is associated with the beautiful princess Beatrice. It 
 is now dilapidated and occupied by poor families ; but entering 
 a small court, we saw evidences that the building was under- 
 going repairs or being taken down. A staircase could be seen 
 from the court which probably led to the different apai-t- 
 ments. Up and down these steps, the young girl, the heroine 
 of so many romances, had passed in the joyousness of child- 
 hood. It was in this palace that tlie unfortunate brother took 
 an affectionate farewell of his wife and children, when on his 
 way to execution. There is scarcely a building in Rome that 
 has a sadder history. It was here that the fiendish Count 
 Cenci tortured his family with an excess of cruelty too repul- 
 sive to be related, and yet they were powerless to obtain re- 
 dress or protection from the government of Pope Clement 
 VIII. 
 
 The Pincio was the " Hill of Gardens " in ancient Rome 
 where were the Gardens of Lucullus and the scene of Messa- 
 lina's orgies and death. A magnificent view of the city and 
 distant mountains is obtained from the terraces of this hill. 
 The obelisk erected by Hadrian to Antoninus stands on the 
 Pincio. From the lofty walls on the north side, we look down 
 on the Villa Borghese, with its fine park and beautiful trees, 
 including the rich green ilex and the Italian pine. The Piazza 
 del Popolo contains an obelisk brought from Heliopolis, Egypt, 
 by Augustus, after the defeat of Mark Antony. The shaft is 
 seventy-eight feet in height; and the entire monument, in- 
 cluding base and cross, is one hundied and eighteen feet. 
 
 The Casino, with its works of art, is nearly in the centre of
 
 182 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 the grounds, and its different apartments are adorned with 
 statues, paintings, frescos, and marbles, including a IMeleager 
 by Rossi, a colossal bust of Hadrian and of Antoninus Pius, 
 a Juno, Ceres, Venus, Hercules, Mercury, and Apollo, an 
 Amazon on horseback, and many other interesting subjects. 
 The statue of Paulina Borghese, sister of Napoleon I., repre- 
 senting a reclining Venus, is exquisitely graceful; and the 
 statue of Paris, that might have been taken for an Apollo, 
 deserved special notice. On the walls are three large paint- 
 ings of scenes in the Trojan War, namely, the meeting of 
 Paris and Helen, the Abduction of Helen, and the death of 
 Achilles. 
 
 January 20 we attended services in the church of St. Andrea 
 della Fratte, Being the occasion of a festival, the church was 
 draped in crimson and gold, while numerous candles were 
 burning in the different chandeliers suspended from the ceil- 
 ing. Near the Tribune are the statues of two angels, by 
 Bernini, originally intended for the Bridge of St. Angelo. A 
 reclining figure of Lady Falconnet, by Harriet Hosmer, is 
 placed in this church. The statue holds a rosary and cross in 
 the hand. 
 
 Among the tombs of distinguished persons are those of 
 Angelina Kauffmann and Schadow, a Danish archsealogist ; 
 here also is one of a prince of Morocco, whose only fame is his 
 title. The Academy of San Luca, the oldest in Italy, was 
 founded in 1595 ; its first president was Federigo Zuccaro, and 
 its present director is Professor E. Wolff, the German sculptor. 
 The gallery contained some good pictures and some of little 
 merit, while portraits of artists adorned the walls. Following 
 the Via Bonella, in which the Academy is situated, we come 
 to an ancient gateway, a remnant of old Rome. Three 
 Corinthian columns support a very beautiful entablature, all 
 of which belonged to the Temple of Mars in the Forum of 
 Augustus. In regard to this forum, about four hundred and 
 fifty feet of its lofty walls remain standing, while its original 
 level was about sixteen feet below the street. Near the Forum 
 of Augustus was the Forum of Caesar, with a Temple of
 
 noME. 183 
 
 Venus. During tlie intervals Ijetween visits to other places of 
 interest, we made frequent excursions to the ^'atic:ln Muscuin, 
 with its inexhaustible treasures of ajt. 
 
 January 22. To the Baths of Caracalla we next gave <»ur 
 attention. These were begun by the Emperor Caracalla, in 
 212 A. D., and completed by Alexander Severus, in 222 ; 
 they could accommodate sixteen hundred bathers at once. 
 The high and thick walls, the immense arches, and the exten- 
 sive apartments, whose remains are now seen, prove that they 
 were on a magnificent plan. The area comprised one hundred 
 and six square feet, and like other public buildings, it had 
 warm and cold baths, a stadium, and numerous chamljere. 
 The richness and magnificence of Roman baths added to the 
 grandeur of the ancient city. It has been said these baths 
 caused the overthrow of Roman supremacy, as they were so 
 sumptuous, that the citizens spent most of their time in them, 
 and by an excess of luxury became effeminate, and when 
 internal dissensions and foreign invasions assailed the nation, 
 they were powerless to resist. The Baths of Caracalla afford 
 many interesting relics, in the form of broken columns, with 
 ornamented capitols, friezes, mouldings, pedestals, reliefs, 
 statues, and mosaic pavements, with their abundance of beauti- 
 ful marbles. 
 
 On the Cffilian Hill stands St. Stefano Rotondo, a circular 
 church without spire, faqade, or any other distinguishing fea- 
 ture of ecclesiastical architecture. It is the largest circular 
 church known, though smaller than the original on(e built at 
 the close of the fifth century; fifty-six granite and marble col- 
 umns support a wooden roof, while the interior contains frescos 
 representing the martyrdom of the saints, by every conceivable 
 form of torture, a very repulsive scene, as any one can imagine. 
 A marble episcopal throne occupied by Gregory the Great 
 stands in the vestibule. The church is seldom, if ever, used 
 for worship. The Palace Spada alia Regola was built by Paul 
 III. of the Farnese family, in 1540, but it subsequently came 
 ■ into the possession of the Spada family. In this palace is seen 
 the colossal statue of Pompey, claimed, by some antiquaries, to
 
 184 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 be the one mentioned by Shakespeare, at whose base Csesar 
 fell. The custodian pointed to a dark spot on one of the 
 limbs of the statue said to have been caused by the blood of 
 Csesar's wounds. Portraits of the Spada family that has 
 furnished several cardinals, and other paintings, adorn the 
 walls. 
 
 The Farnese Palace is one of the most magnificent in Rome, 
 but at present is closed to the public, though the court and 
 main entrance can be seen. The vaulting of the archway is 
 very elaborately ornamented with carving designed by Michael 
 Angelo ; the entrance has a triple colonnade. The court con- 
 tains two sarcophagi, one being that of Cecilia Metella, and 
 beautifully ornamented. This palace formerly held three 
 famous groups, — the Farnese Bull, the Hercules, and the 
 Flora, now in the Museum of Naples. It was begun by Paul 
 III., and for several years prior to 1872, it belonged to the 
 kings of Naples, but now it is owned by the government. In 
 visiting Rome, one should not be too fastidious about the want 
 of cleanliness in the public streets. We were obliged to pass 
 through the Ghetto, which is not remarkably neat, in order to 
 reach the Arch of Janus, called Janus Quadrifrons, on account 
 of its four fagades formed by four arches, constituting a square 
 structure of grand and fine proportions. An ancient church, 
 founded in the fourth century, stands near, and not far off is 
 the Cloaca Maxima, the oldest arch in Rome, built more than 
 two thousand years ago. 
 
 At the foot of the Aventine is the church of Santa Maria 
 in Casmedin, which has in the portico, the Bocca della Verita, 
 the mouth of an ancient fountain into which, according to tradi- 
 tion, the Romans were accustomed to insert the right hand 
 when pledging themselves by an oath. The church dates from 
 the third century, and was built on the site of an ancient 
 temple ; ten of the columns are enclosed in the walls of the 
 modern edifice. The pavement consists of mosaic work called 
 Opus Alexandrinum. 
 
 In this part of the city is seen the Temple of Vesta or of 
 Hercules Victor, it is not certain which, a circular building
 
 ROME. 185 
 
 surrounded by nineteen standing columns (one having Ijeea 
 removed), of the Corinthian order ; tlie temple has Inien chris- 
 tened Santa Maria del Sole. Not far from the Round Temple 
 is a church of the Ionic order, and near stands the Ijrick 
 house of Crescentius or Casa di Kienzi, one of the oldest 
 existing specimens of the domestic architecture of the Middle 
 Ages. Almost every church has some special characteristic or 
 some relic of peculiar interest, but it would require volumes 
 to delineate their distinctive features. They are really 
 museums of art, and must be studied as such. 
 
 The weather was so fine January 24, that a party of tourists 
 from our hotel decided to take a drive to the Campagna by the 
 Appian Way, as far as Casale Rotondo, about six miles from 
 the gate of St. Sebastian. The Via Appia, famous botli in 
 sacred and secular history, was begun by Appius Claudius 
 Csecus, 319 B. C, for a military road, and in 1860 it was 
 repaired or excavated for the distance of eleven miles, and 
 merits the ancient title of " queen of roads." On this 
 thoroughfare are some of the most interesting remains of 
 pagan and Christian Rome. Ruins of ancient tomljs, broken 
 statues, and marbles, reliefs, and architectural ornaments are 
 scattered along the way, while on the left are seen the remains 
 of the aqueduct built by Claudius, 52 A. D., and in the dis- 
 tance the Alban Hills and the town of Frascati. About a 
 mile from the gate are the Catacombs of St. Calixtus. We were 
 met by the custodian, who conducted our party across an 
 enclosure of ground to a staircase that descended a numljer 
 of feet below the surface, perhaps fifteen or more, then gave 
 to each one a lighted taper, when we began our subterranean 
 exploration in single file, our guide preceding us. We were 
 conducted through passage after passage, some of them being 
 very narrow, with niches all along the walls for the bodies of 
 those buried here. Occasionally we passed a small chai>el, 
 and in one were two skeletons in coffins. The cliai>el where 
 the early popes were buried contains the remains of Sixtus 
 II., who suffered martyrdom in the CatacomUs 258 A. I)., 
 besides inscriptions in commemoration of persecuted Christians.
 
 186 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 The remains of St. Cecilia were removed to the church in 
 Trastevere. These Catacombs, originally designed for tombs, 
 afforded an asylum to the Christians during the persecutions 
 by pagan Rome, hence the chapels found in them. As we 
 wandered through these narrow passages running in all direc- 
 tions, there was danger of being lost in the perplexing maze of 
 these subterranean streets ; therefore we kept near our guide, 
 to avoid so fearful a doom. The Church of St. Sebastian, on a 
 site above the Catacombs, and containing the remains of 
 martyrs, includes a stone which, tradition says, bears the foot- 
 prints of the Saviour. 
 
 From the Appian Way we see the ruins of the Circus Maxi- 
 mus, ten hundred and fifty feet by two hundred and eighty- 
 five feet, built in 311 A. D. ; but the Tomb of Cecilia Metella, 
 wife of the Triumvir Crassus, forms the most conspicuous 
 object and serves as a landmark. It is a circular monument 
 sixty-five feet in diameter ; the frieze is adorned with wreaths 
 of flowers and the skulls of oxen, a curious decoration. At 
 one time it was furnished with turrets or pinnacles, and used 
 as a tower. The visit to the Catacombs and the Campagna 
 formed a memorable event in our sojourn at Rome. After our 
 return, we went to the Villa Medici, and from the Belvedere 
 obtained excellent views of the surrounding scenes. This 
 building in 1801 became the seat of the French Academy of 
 Arts ; its collections of casts comprise some copies from the 
 Parthenon at Athens and the Louvre at Paris. 
 
 We made frequent visits to the Vatican Museum, and dur- 
 ing one of these went to the Church of St. Onofrio, founded 
 in 1439, and the burial-place of Tasso. It is built on the 
 Janiculus, and contains the poet's monument of white marble 
 erected by Pius IX. The statue of Tasso occupies a niche, 
 while below it are reliefs on a frieze representing his funeral 
 procession, with the deceased poet borne through the streets 
 wearing the laurel wreath, which was not conferred upon him 
 until after his death. On a declivity of the highest peak of the 
 Janiculus, stands the oak, partially destroyed by lightning, 
 under which Tasso used to sit when a resident of the monas-
 
 liOifE. 187 
 
 tery near tlie churcli. Tlie cell he occupied, togctlier with 
 some relics, including his desk and a specimen of his hand- 
 writing, brings to mind the history of this gifted hut unfortu- 
 nate poet, one of the most eminent, if we except Dante, of the 
 Italian poets. Ilis immortal work, " Gerusalennne Lil)erato," 
 will be studied with deeper interest after having seen these 
 mementos. 
 
 Visits were again made to the Sistine Chapel, the Stanze 
 of Raphael, and the Picture Gallery. In examining the faded 
 frescos, one must give full play to the imagination ; doubtless 
 they were very fine when fresh. INIichael Angelo is the prince 
 of artists for sublimity, but it seems to us he lacks grace. As 
 a skilful anatomist, he has perhaps no equal ; his figures are 
 nearly all very muscular, but not gross like those of Rubens ; 
 he lacks warmth of color, while Raphael endows with grace 
 everything he touches. 
 
 The Villa Albani, just outside the Porta Salara, was built 
 in 170G by Cardinal Albani, hence it is new for this venerable 
 city. It was formerly enriched by admirable works of art, 
 but two hundred and ninety-four specimens were carried off to 
 Paris by Napoleon I., and afterwards sold. The villa now be- 
 longs to Prince Torlonia, who has removed several of tlie best 
 works to his private museum, so that the collection at present 
 is greatly inferior to the original one. The Casino has a num- 
 ber of frescos, statues, and busts representing classical scenes, 
 and a fine relief of Antoninus, the only one returned of those 
 taken away by Napoleon. This villa is rich in rare and beau- 
 tiful marbles. 
 
 January 31 we made another unsuccessful attempt to get 
 a " permisso " to visit the Vatican Mosaic Works. Signor 
 " Somebody " did not bestow favors on Thursday, we must 
 apply some other day. This is a specimen of the an-angementa 
 at this celebrated museum. We contented ourselves by mak- 
 ing a visit to the Villa Ludovisi, with its alluring walks and 
 groves, fine views, and treasures of art. The Casino contains 
 the Aurora by Guercino, much inferior to that of Gnido, in 
 the Casino of Rospigliosa. The coloring, the grouping, and 
 the figures of the former are inferior to those of the latter.
 
 188 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 The Church of St. Clemente, between the Colosseum and 
 the Lateran, belongs to Irish Dominicans. Prior Mullooly has 
 recently made excavations under the building, leading to some 
 interesting discoveries. The crypt of the present church was 
 an early basilica, mentioned by Jerome as early as 392 A. D. 
 It was nearly destroyed in 1084, and in 1108 the present edi- 
 fice was built on its ruins. A third ruin was discovered under 
 the crypt, supposed to date from the second century, and some 
 portions even from the Republic. The Church of St. Clem- 
 ente is very interesting, both on account of its great antiquity 
 and its rich marbles. St. Clement was the third successor to 
 St. Peter, and, in honor to him, the church was founded on 
 the site of his house, it is claimed. It is richly decorated by 
 frescos, marbles, etc., and has a pavement of remarkably fine 
 " opus Alexandrinum," of various designs, made of beautiful 
 marbles of different species. The red granite obelisk, erected 
 sixteen centuries before the Christian era, in front of the Tem- 
 ple of the Sun, at Thebes, in Egypt, now stands in the Piazza 
 of St. John Lateran. It is one • hundred and four feet in 
 height, or, including the pedestal, one hundred and fifty-three 
 feet. 
 
 Returning to the Colosseum, we ascended this remarkable 
 structure, or what is left of it, nearly to the top. The vastness 
 of the building is almost inconceivable, while the views from 
 every point were very extensive. From one side are seen the 
 ruins on the Palatine Hill, and in another direction those of 
 Nero's Palace, or rather its locality, since the remains are under 
 ground, and the Baths of Titus. We continued our study of 
 churches, including San Marco, said to date from Constantine ; 
 the present edifice was erected in 833 A. D., and is decorated 
 in the usual rich style of Roman churches. Another, on the 
 Corso, contains the monuments and busts of Joseph Bonaparte 
 and his wife, while the Bonaparte Chapel is very rich in 
 decorations. 
 
 The Museum Kircheriano contains many ancient relics, in- 
 cluding a toilet casket of bronze, found near Palestrina, in 
 1774. It is in the best style of Greek art, the figures on it
 
 HOME. 189 
 
 representing the Argonauts and the vicUjry of Polyileiicus. 
 They are drawn by a single line white line, but with the \n'.v- 
 fection of Greek workmanship. 
 
 We made another effort to obtain a '' permLsso " to the Collec- 
 tion of Mosaics, but were unsuccessful. We went through 
 various passages and rooms, ascended several llighta of staire, 
 and finally found the sacristan, to inquire what was necessary 
 to obtain our object. This official was curt even to rudenesa, 
 an unusual thing for an Italian, and declined giving us any 
 information, and we were obliged to abandon our attempts. 
 While pondering what next to do, some German tourists, wait- 
 ing to enter the room of the Ecumenical Council, invited us 
 to accompany them. As we could not enter the Room of 
 Mosaics without a special "permisso" from the aforesaid 
 Signor T , we were very glad of the opportunity. 
 
 The transept used by the Council in 1872 remains the same 
 as then, with rows of seats for the members, while the walls of 
 the room are covered with large frescos, representing the trans- 
 actions of the Council. A fine monument of Clement XIII., 
 with the figure of the pope, and a crouching lion, by Canova, 
 is seen here, while in the chapels are the works of celebrated 
 masters. We finally succeeded in getting access to the Mosaics 
 by purchasing a "permisso" for two francs, besides a feu to 
 the official. 
 
 The manufacture of mosaics is a special privilege of the 
 papal court, at least those carried on in the Vatican. The 
 pictures were fine, and some of them very large ; but the most 
 beautiful specimens were in a small show-room. Tiie most 
 interesting were a marble table top, with a wreath of flowei-s in 
 the form of a circular garland, and views of places in Rome and 
 Tivoli, besides several small works of different pittems. Oidy 
 a few workmen were employed, and the exhibits were not what 
 we expected. A large quantity of material used was placed 
 along the sides of the rooms, and paintings frequently taken 
 from galleries were arranged for copies. 
 
 We paid one more visit to the Vatican Museum, this time 
 to the Library ; but, strange to say, there were no books or
 
 190 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 MSS. to be seen, though it contains twenty-four thousand of 
 the latter. They are all hidden from sight in close-locked 
 cabinets. The numerous apartments are highly decorated, and 
 contain art treasurers ; as a marble table from the Catacombs 
 of St. Calixtus, and one from the ruins of the Palatine. In one 
 room was a large figure of Pius IX. in painted glass, made at 
 Aix-la-Chapelle. Illustrations of magnificent bindings of 
 books and illuminated MSS. are kept in the library. The 
 Church of the Gesii, the principal one of the Order of the Jesuits 
 in Rome, is one of the richest in decorations; not a square 
 inch is unadorned. The costly marbles were given by Prince 
 Alexander Torlonia, in 1860, though the church was built in 
 1568. 
 
 February 6 we visited the Castle of St. Angelo, in com- 
 pany with some American travellers. This historical building 
 was originally Hadrian's tomb which he built for himself, and 
 which became the burial-place of the emperors to Septimius 
 Severus, 193 A. D. It was made of travertine, and encased 
 in marble, but the outer covering has all been removed. The 
 tomb was converted into a fortress during the Siesre of Rome 
 by the Goths, 537 A. D., when the statues that adorned the top 
 were hurled down upon the enemy. The bronze angel that now 
 crowns the summit was placed there in 1740. The castle has 
 been in possession of the popes ever since Boniface IX., 1389, 
 and in 1500 the covered passage was built, connecting the castle 
 with the Vatican. We were conducted by an accommodating 
 guide through many winding passages and large rooms, over 
 several bridges, to the apartment where Beatrice Cenci received 
 her sentence, and into a dungeon where she was imprisoned 
 for nearly a year, with a very low doorway, so that we were 
 obliged to stoop in order to enter. No light was admitted 
 except through a small grating above, while the prisoner's 
 food was lowered through another aperture. The places on the 
 walls to which her bed wsa attached still remain. 
 
 February 7 we made another visit to the Palatine Hill in 
 company with some English travellers, when, conducted by a 
 guide, we descended into a low, dark, grotto-like region with
 
 ROME. 101 
 
 pitfalls, deep wells, or cisterns of water, into which one wits 
 liable to fall unless very cautious. Tiie dark and dan^'eroua 
 passages and the smoke of our torches made a return to the 
 outside world very agreeable. The beautiful niarl>lfs taken 
 from the Palaces of the Ca3sars on this hill, are under the control 
 of the Italian government. Large piles of these stones are 
 scattered about or still cover the walls yet standing, and 
 strangers are not permitted to carry off any specimens. To 
 prevent such plundering, a special police or guard is kei)t 
 there; and if he sees any one doing so, he says gently, with 
 genuine Italian politeness : " It is not permitted to take these 
 marbles." Travellers, however, can purchase specimens of 
 nearly all the varieties of the marble workers for a trifling 
 sum. Returning from the Palatine we went to the studio of 
 Miss Edmonia Lewis, the American sculptress, where we saw 
 specimens of her works, including Cleopatra, Hagar, and busts 
 of Hiawatha and Minnehaha. 
 
 Pope Pius IX. has just died after an administration of nearly 
 thirty-two years. Italy has lost her two most distinguished 
 men within a very short time: the king, Victor Emmanuel, 
 January 9, and Pius IX., February 7. The weather has been, 
 on the whole, all that one could desire for visiting any part of 
 the city and its suburbs, so that very little time has been given 
 to rest; but a change of scene is refreshing both to the physical 
 and the mental powers, and that is what every one may liave 
 in this city of wonders. We could not leave Rome without 
 visiting the studios of some of the artists; therefore we ac- 
 companied a friend to the rooms of two eminent Italian 
 painters — De Sanctis, a portrait painter, and N'ertuni, whose 
 studio was a museum of media3val art. He had several rooms 
 furnished with tapestries, brocades, Turkey carpets, rich 
 antique furniture, porcelains, and numerous specimens of 
 interesting objects. His paintings were very beautiful, compris- 
 ing landscapes representing Italian and Egyptian scenery. It 
 seems to us that modern artists excel the ancient miisters in 
 landscape painting. Rogers, the American sculi)tor, had a 
 large number of works, including the Blind Girl of Pompeii,
 
 192 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 one of his most attractive productions. The studio of Miss 
 Hosmer, who was absent in England, displayed a great number 
 of finished and unfinished works. A large group comprising 
 several figures was intended for a fountain in San Francisco, 
 California. 
 
 TTie closing day of the week was given to rest and review- 
 ing our Roman adventures during this interesting visit. 
 Travel affords excellent opportunities for studying human 
 character. Some persons are frivolous, some disagreeable, 
 some talk too loud, others, too low, some laugh too much, 
 others seldom smile ; some are brusque in manners, others are 
 too gentle, some are too familiar, others are repellent, and so 
 the catalogue might be extended. It teaches the lesson that 
 no one is faultless, therefore we should be charitable and for- 
 bearing towards others ; yet it is the fortune of most travellers 
 to meet with more agreeable than disagreeable persons. 
 
 February 11 we went to St. Peter's, to see the deceased pope 
 lying in state. He looked as his pictures represent him, 
 though bearing the marks of suffering in his countenance. 
 There was a very great crowd, and in the throng some expert 
 thief stole our purse, fortunately containing only a few francs, 
 and, what was a greater loss, our note-book. 
 
 Before leaving Rome for Naples, we made another visit 
 to Santa Maria Maggiore to examine the beautiful marbles. 
 The Confessio, in which Pius IX. is to be finally buried, 
 after the death of his successor, is very rich.
 
 NAPLES. 1 93 
 
 CHAPTER XIIL 
 
 Borne to Naiyles. 
 
 On the beautiful morning of February 13 we started for 
 Naples. The railway for a long distance runs nearly parallel 
 with the ancient aqueduct which, for many miles, has been 
 well preserved, but as we proceeded there were evidences of 
 decay and ruin. As we leave the Campagna the region l)e- 
 comes more fertile, while olive orchards and cultivated fields, 
 with rugged mountains in the distance, give variety to the 
 landscape. Farmers were at work ploughing and sowing, and in 
 places, grain and certain vegetables were in a greater or less state 
 of advancement. At length Mt. Vesuvius came in sight, with 
 its dense column of smoke and scattered tracts of snow. The 
 ascent looked steep and difficult, though it Ls frequently made 
 by tourists. On arriving at the railway station in Nai)les, we 
 found it was a good distance from the hotel we had selected, 
 but it gave us an opportunity of seeing much of the city while 
 going to it. The next day Ave began our customary task or 
 pleasure of sight-seeing, by a visit to the Museum, a long dis- 
 tance from our hotel on the Riviera di Chiara. The collection 
 is large and has some features different from all others. It 
 contains numerous specimens from Herculaneum and Pompeii, 
 but no description will be given until future visits are made. 
 The streets of Naples are well paved, and the buildings look 
 fresh and cheerful, while near our hotel, once a palace, Ls the 
 Villa Nazionale, which is a public garden. The Riviera is the 
 " Rotten Row " of Naples, where may be seen the (?lite of the 
 city, taking their daily drive with their splendid teams. We 
 took a pleasant walk on the shore of the charming blue Medi- 
 terranean, where we had a view of Vesuvius, the royal palace,
 
 194 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 and San Carlo, an immense theatre. A party was formed of 
 some of the guests at the hotel for a visit to the Island 
 of Capri. The day, February 16, was fine, and we had a de- 
 lightful sail of three hours down the bay, first to Sorrento, 
 thence to the Blue Grotto, passing near Vesuvius, whose per- 
 petual column of smoke, illuminated by the sunlight, looks like 
 a pillar of silvery clouds. All along its base, villages quietly 
 repose as if insensible to the dangers of sudden destruction. 
 A few years ago several were destroyed by an eruption, and 
 the ruins of some of them still remain. For some dis- 
 tance, towns and villages are scattered along the route, but 
 farther south the coast is rocky and precipitous. Sorrento is 
 picturesquely situated on a high cliff, while passages are cut 
 through the steep rocks from the sea to the hotels and villas 
 above. The natural wall, with these openings, give the town 
 the appearance of being fortified. The rocky promontory, on 
 which the city is built, is covered with olive orchards, and 
 orange trees flourish in the valleys. We sail around the cliffs 
 and promontories in going from Sorrento to Capri, a distance of 
 eight miles. 
 
 The Island of Capri consists of limestone of a reddish color 
 and contains grottos, the most celebrated being the Blue 
 Grotto, the principal object of our visit. Leaving the steamer 
 we entered a small rowboat under the direction of a guide; 
 and as the arch to the grotto is low, we seated ourselves in the 
 bottom of the boat, in order to avoid a contact with the rocks ; 
 but after entering the cave, we found the vault quite high. 
 What an enchanting scene was revealed, after our sight had 
 become accustomed to the dim light ! The water was a heav- 
 enly blue, clear and transparent like the sky, or more, perhaps, 
 like the sapphire, while objects below the surface were of a 
 silver white ; the roof of the grotto was of a deep shade of blue, 
 and the effect of the whole scene was magical and beautiful 
 beyond expression. The cavern was quite dark at a short dis- 
 tance from the entrance, which inspires one with a sense of 
 danger, especially as there were nearly a dozen other boats 
 near, and we were glad to emerge into daylight. The sides of
 
 NAPLES. 195 
 
 the rocks were covered witli a bright red conil, inixtMl with a 
 purple substance which may have been coral or a veg(;table 
 production. The changeable colors of the Meditcrninean aro 
 remarkable; near the rocks and beach, it is a beautiful green, 
 sometimes of a deep shade, and sometimes of a clear emerald 
 hue, while distant from the shore the color might be compared 
 to turquoise blue. 
 
 It is impossible to describe fully the beautiful and iliversified 
 scenery of Naples 'and its vicinity. The colors surpass every- 
 thing artists have represented, varying from tlie deepest and 
 richest shades to the softest and most delicate tints, suffused 
 by an indescribable haze. 
 
 Sunday in Naples is a gala day, and the most exciting of all 
 the week. Business and pleasure are blended, though in the 
 morning services are attended in the churches. The desecra- 
 tion of the Sabbath on the continent of Europe is shocking to 
 one born and educated in New England ; but it is a danger that 
 threatens our country at the present time, due largely to the 
 great number of immigrants. 
 
 We went to the Chapel of San Severo, which contains some 
 fine statuary, the most interesting being the reclining figure of 
 the dead Christ, entirely covered by a marble veil, the work of 
 Sammatino ; a veiled figure of Modesty ; and Disillusion, repre- 
 senting a man escaping from a net of cords, besides several 
 other statues ; the ceiling was covered with frescos of no great 
 merit. 
 
 February 18 the weather was very warm. In the forenoon 
 we visited the Royal Palace, and were hurried through the 
 numerous apartments at the rapid pace at which guides usually 
 conduct visitors, only a little more so ; and in thj afternoon we 
 went to the Palace of Capodimonte, a summer residence, sit- 
 uated on an elevated site surrounded by beautiful grounds. 
 The palace contains a large collection of paintings, considerable 
 statuary, arms, and porcelain of the old Capodimonte manu- 
 facture, now very rare. One room is entirely covered with 
 porcelain ornaments. 
 
 February 19 was a memorable day in the history of our
 
 196 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 travels, for a visit to Vesuvius. A party of tourists was 
 formed, but those who made the arrangements had secured too 
 many passengers for one carriage. In consequence the driver 
 objected, and then ensued an altercation such as can be known 
 only in Naples. Several cabmen came in for a share, and 
 actually came to blows among themselves. Finally, it was 
 decided to appeal to the hotel-keeper, who had furnished the 
 team. He thought the carriage could take all the company, 
 and after an hour's delay we all started with our youthful 
 driver, who had been roughly handled by his burly associates. 
 We had plenty of " runners," and before we had gone far we 
 began to understand the character of Neapolitan beggars. One 
 ragged fellow persisted in accompanying us all the way to the 
 Hermitage, and was very officious in procuring specimens of 
 lava for us. As some of them contained crystals, we bought 
 them, when he obtained more and placed them in our carriage; 
 but we took good care to put some of the best in our pockets, 
 which was a timely precaution. After arriving at the Her- 
 mitage, we left our carriage, and on returning we could find 
 nothing of our specimens, for the rogue had sold them to other 
 travellers during our absence, and then came with a gracious 
 smile for us to purchase more specimens. Neapolitan beggars 
 are the dirtiest, sauciest, best-natured, and most persistent class 
 we have yet seen, and perhaps the most contented. It does 
 not seem to disturb their equanimity to be refused alms, and 
 they are rather surprised to be treated otherwise. In going to 
 Vesuvius we passed through sections of the city occupied by 
 the poor classes, whose almost only home is the street. Vari- 
 ous kinds of work, including household duties, are performed 
 in the open air, such as washing, ironing, cooking, mending 
 clothing, arranging the hair, etc., and even macaroni was 
 drying on poles by the side of the street. 
 
 Naples, with its suburbs, extends along the sea for a con- 
 siderable distance, in the direction of the volcano ; but finally 
 we began to ascend a slope not very precipitous, leading past 
 fields of lava, at first of no great depth, but as we continued, 
 the volcanic matter increased until scarcely any other object
 
 NAPLES. 197 
 
 was to be seen. For miles vast lieaps of lava and volcanic lusliea 
 were piled up, and also scattered about in wild confusion, cov- 
 ering the sides of the mountain and adjacent plain, while the 
 rocks assumed the most fantastic forms, such as coils like ropcH, 
 and shapes resembling human and animal figures in all sorta of 
 positions. The prevailing color of the lava is gray or brown, 
 but it is sometimes inclined to yellow and sometimes to green, 
 and not unfrequently a brick-red. It has different dcgi-ees of 
 porosity and sometimes contains crystals of different minerals. 
 The lava jewelry, so called, of various light shades, is said to 
 be made of clay found in the region. The utter desolation 
 seen here is beyond descri])tion. There is no animal or 
 vegetable life, nothing but a vast sea of lava or rocky billows ; 
 no motion except the columns of smoke perpetually ascending 
 from the crater. One can hardly conceive of a more grand 
 and fearful object in nature than an active volcano. The 
 eruption of 1872, which lasted about a week, is said to have 
 been terribly grand, and calculated to inspire every one living 
 in the vicinity with consternation. The stream of lava flow- 
 ing down the mountain on that occasion destroyed or laid 
 waste two villages and killed many people. 
 
 An observatory has been erected on a spur of the mountain 
 for scientific observation in regard to the condition of the 
 volcano. The Hermitage, a small building at the end of the 
 carriage road, is near the observatory ; at this place donkeys 
 are used to carry visitors to the foot of the crater. A few of 
 our party walked some distance over the rough path towards 
 the cone ; but the day was not favorable for an ascension, and 
 we did not attempt the perilous task. On our return to 
 Naples, our heavily loaded carriage broke down, and we were 
 compelled to seek other methods of conveyance The next day 
 was spent in a quiet way, at our hotel and in calling upon 
 some fellow-travellers who had just arrived from Rome. 
 
 The Cathedral of Naples was built on the site of a temple to 
 Neptune, and was destroyed by an earthquake, but rebudt. It 
 encloses the tombs of Charles I. of Anjou and Charles Martel, 
 King of Hungary. The richest chapel is that of St. Januarius,
 
 198 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 the patron of Naples, and is decorated with paintings, statues, 
 marbles, etc., besides bronze figures of the saints. The treas- 
 ures of the church comi)rise a great amount of silver plate, 
 together with the crown of the saint, containing thirty-six 
 hundred and ninety gems. Among the silver articles were 
 about twenty-eight figures of saints, besides candelabra, 
 crosses, platters, flowers, and other things in silver. These 
 treasures were, for the most part, given by the different con- 
 querors of Naples, to conciliate the inhabitants and reconcile 
 them to the tyranny of their rulers. Most of the churches in 
 this city have a dilapidated appearance externally, but in the 
 interior they are covered with ornaments. The marbles are 
 very showy, but the frescos are not particularly noteworthy. 
 There is such a medley of costly and cheap decorations in 
 many Italian churches, that the tourist hardly expects to find 
 one fitted up in good taste ; this is especially true of those in 
 Naples. Images and dolls^ as thej'- may be called, • are pro- 
 fusely scattered about, making one feel that he is in heathen 
 lands. 
 
 February 23 an excursion was made to the ruins of Pompeii. 
 So much has been written about this uncovered city, that all 
 description seems superfluous ; but a few sentences relating to 
 its history may assist the memory. Pompeii was a very old 
 city, founded, it is claimed, in 600 B. C, on a bed of trachyte, 
 at the mouth of the Sarno, on the south side of Vesuvius, per- 
 haps at the distance of two or three miles. It seems to have 
 been exposed to great dangers from early times, for in 63 A. D. 
 it was nearly destroyed by an earthquake, but was soon rebuilt, 
 though not completed, when the awful catastrophe of 79 
 A. D. completely buried it, and the city remained covered with 
 a bed of lava until 1748, when excavations were begun by 
 Charles III., and continued at intervals until the present time. 
 They are still going on, and new discoveries are constantly 
 made ; some of the frescos recently brought to light are as 
 fresh and bright as if just painted. Until 1860 not more than 
 one third of the town had been uncovered; but since 1863 the 
 work of excavation has been vigorously prosecuted under
 
 NAPLES. 11)9 
 
 Fiorelli. In this deserted place are seen roofless Ijouses, with 
 occasional columns, courts, fountains, small rooms without 
 windows, kitchens, servants' apartments, etc., more or \v,m 
 decorated with bright-colored frescos. Most of the desigiia 
 the public are allowed to see are classical subjects, very 
 beautiful and graceful, and are copied by modern artists. Tlie 
 bright tints must have given cheerfulness to rooms without 
 windows. The streets were paved with large blocks of lava, 
 and had very narrow sidewalks. Stepping-stones were placed 
 across the streets at intervals for the convenience of pedes- 
 trians, but it was not possible for carriages to pass one another, 
 as in modern cities, on account of the narrowness of the 
 streets ; therefore it is probable they were compelleil to move 
 only in one direction. Comparatively few skeletons have been 
 found, which proves the larger part of the inhabitants escaped 
 before being overtaken by the onflowing stream of lava. The 
 Museum contains several human figures in whole or in part. 
 The scenes at Pompeii are exceedingly impressive. A de- 
 populated and ruined city is a melancholy sight ; but one 
 suddenly buried beneath melted lava, when the citizens were 
 engaged in their customary daily pursuits, either of business 
 or pleasure, is terrible beyond expression. We returned to 
 Naples greatly impressed with the sights we had witnessed in 
 this memorable region. 
 
 What is called " The Institution of Fine Arts " in Naples 
 is a picture gallery containing a small collection of paintings 
 and plaster casts by modern artists. Some of the views of 
 the city and bay were faithful representations ; but the jjaint- 
 ings, generally, were open to criticism. The Gesu Nuovo, 
 built in 1584, like other Jesuit churches, is highly decomted ; 
 the high altar is adorned with precious stones, and the pave- 
 ment is formed of both antique and modern marbles. The 
 Church of St. Severino is a fine building, with paintings in oil 
 and frescos, and decorated with rich marbles. It is near the 
 University, which contains a collection of minerals, it is said ; 
 but we were not successful in gaining admission, therefore we 
 engaged a cab for San Martino, near the Castle of St. Elmo.
 
 200 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 The price was decided, but after we arrived at the church the 
 driver insisted upon our paying more fare ; and rather than dis- 
 pute the point, we yielded, but we refused to return in his 
 cab, which left him without a passenger. " Honesty is the 
 best policy " is a maxim he ought to have learned by the in- 
 cident. 
 
 The Certosa of San Martino, founded in the fourteenth cen- 
 tuiy, ranks among the first in Italy for the works of art it 
 contains, including paintings by Guido Rene and Spagnoletto, 
 and frescos by Bellisario and others ; but the mosaics of wood, 
 marble, and precious stones were the most interesting objects, 
 and were displayed in the pavements, walls, balustrades of 
 altars and chapels, and the covering of the columns, upon which 
 were placed twelve large vases in Egyptian stone. The ele- 
 vated site of San Martino, which is ascended by flights of steps, 
 commands a magnificent view of Naples and the sea. 
 
 The last days of February were mostly given to rest and 
 study. At our hotel there are only four guests whose native 
 tongue is English ; but of the many nationalities nearly all 
 speak French, which seems to be an international language. It 
 is amusing to a quiet listener in the drawing-room to hear Ital- 
 ians, French, Germans, Roumanians, Russians, Greeks, and 
 English all speaking at once or by turns, representing a per- 
 fect Babel. Travelling is an excellent school for the study of 
 human character, as one meets with almost every variety. 
 
 March 1 we took a long walk, and saw flowers in bloom, 
 lemons and oranges ripening upon the trees, and vegetation in 
 general in an advanced stage, corresponding to the last of 
 May or the first of June in New England, though the weathe? 
 here is much warmer. On the 2d inst., after many delays, 
 we made a journey to Pozzuoli and Baia. Our route lay 
 through the " Grotto of Posilipo," a tunnel cut through the 
 native rock for the distance of half a mile, by the ancient 
 Romans, for a passage to Puteoli. It is paved and lighted by 
 lamps, and on the Naples side is the reputed tomb of Virgil. 
 Leaving the Grotto of Posilipo we traverse a low and uninter- 
 esting region until we come to Lake Agnano, now nearly dry.
 
 NAPLES. 201 
 
 Near this lake is the celtibiatcd Grotto (h.-l Cane, a sort of cav- 
 ern, on the bottom of whicli the carboniferous acid rrjis in fatal 
 to dogs, and would l)e to all animal life, did the deadly vapor 
 rise higher. Our guide took a small dog to try the t'X[)erimcnt, 
 but we persuaded him to desist, and were satisfied with Heeing 
 a lighted taper suddenly extinguished in the blue smoke, for 
 such the gas seemed to be. Near the Giotto del Cane, or dog 
 grotto, is another called Grotto dell' Ammoniaca, Injcause the 
 lower part contains ammonia in a gaseous state. Not far off are 
 the Thermae Angoulance, or Baths of St. Germano with the 
 heat in one of the apartments equal to a hot va[)or bath. In 
 the neighborhood of Lake Agnano are the White Mountains, 
 which furnish edible earth, and decomposed trachyte used in 
 the manufacture of alum. The road between this lake and 
 Pozzuoli passes the thermal mineral baths, while along the 
 shore fine views are obtained of the Mediterranean, the Island 
 of Nisidia, Mt. Olibano, composed entirely of volcanic rock, 
 and the Flegean Fields. 
 
 As soon as we reached the town we were importuned by a 
 host of would-be guides, but refused all of them except a lad 
 who conducted us to the Solfatara. This is the crater of an 
 extinct volcano, from which sulphurous fumes are constantly 
 issuing and if a stone is cast upon the bottom of the crater, 
 there is an echo along the ground, proving it is hollow l)eneath. 
 The only eruption of lava occurred in 1198, which left an 
 empty crater from one half to one mile in diameter. The 
 bottom is covered with a fine white powder or dust, the puz- 
 zolano, from which a hycb-aulic cement is made, used for stucco. 
 This extinct volcano resembles a very deep basin with walls of 
 stone, lava, and pulverized volcanic matter, partially covered 
 with vegetation. In one part of the crater there is a cavern, 
 from which are constantly issuing hot fumes with a strong 
 smell of sulphur, which, as the gas escapes, makes a gurgling 
 sound much like the boiling of any thick suKstance. Small 
 streams of hot vapor frequently issue from different parts of 
 the ground. Doubtless this crater communicates with Mt. 
 Vesuvius, though they are many miles apart, since the phe-
 
 202 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 nomena in this vicinity are affected by the eruptions of the 
 distant volcano. 
 
 Some interesting ruins are seen in Pozzuoli, — ancient 
 Puteoli, — as the theatre, the amphitheatre, and the Temple of 
 Diana and Neptune ; but to the geologist the Temple of Jupiter 
 Serapis is the most remarkable, on account of the alternate 
 subsidence and elevation of its site. Some of its columns have 
 been taken away to be used in the royal palace at Caserta, 
 but three are left standing. 
 
 On the route from Pozzuoli to Baia we pass Mt. Nuovo, 
 thrown up in forty-eight hours during a volcanic eruption in 
 1538, on the spot occupied by a village ; and a short distance 
 from the road is Lake Averno, rendered famous by Virgil. 
 It is a beautiful sheet of clear water, reposing in the basin 
 formed by surrounding mountains, while near its banks is a 
 cavern called the Grotto della Sibilla, though it is not certain 
 that it is the one named by the poet. After leaving Lake 
 Averno we pass the Thermae Neronianse, or Baths of Nero, 
 near Lake Lucinus, famous in Roman times for its oysters, as 
 it is now for its fish. All along the road are ruins which, if 
 exhumed, would rival those of Rome. The temples of Venus, 
 Diana, and Mercury were especially rich in decorations of 
 marbles and other ornamental works; but the most conspicuous 
 object was a large castle standing on a high promontory. 
 Baia is really a thing of the past, the famous watering-place 
 of the ancient Romans, and the whole region from this place 
 to Pozzuoli was crowded with the palaces of the emperors and 
 the nobles. 
 
 In returning to Naples, our route lay along the seashore 
 except when it crossed the mountain by the artificial Grotto 
 of Sijanus, built before the Christian era. The masonry seems 
 fresh and substantial ; but as it is not used for public travel, it 
 is not illuminated. It is said to have been constructed by 
 LucuUus for a communication between his villa called Pausily 
 Pou — without care — and the Island of Nisidia. The whole 
 region is volcanic, and the different geological formations are 
 very distinct. Arriving in the city, we made another visit to
 
 NAPLES. 203 
 
 the Museum, wliicli contains about ei^^lit hundn-il painting's, a 
 fine Pompeian collection, about four thousand Italio-Cireco 
 vases of d liferent forms and sizes, and a collection of ancient 
 bronzes said to be the largest in the world. The engraving on 
 rock crystal is very beautiful ; the specimens from Ilercu- 
 laneum and Pompeii were especially interesting. 
 
 There are few cities that afford so many excellent views aa 
 Naples. The elevated hills, the sinuosity of the coa.st, and the 
 unrivalled IMediterranean, while in the distance Mt. Vesuvius 
 with its adjacent villages, Sorrento, Castellemare, and Capri, 
 are all seen from the Corso. The stone used largely for 
 buildings, called "volcanic tufa," gives an air of cheerfulness 
 to the city, as the " calcaire grossier " does to Paris. We 
 spent a few days in rest and study before attempting another 
 excursion. 
 
 March 8 we rode to Frisio, the terminus of the tramway, 
 and then walked a long distance farther. The views in every 
 direction are chaiming, interspersed with romantic vilhts 
 scattered along the road. The shore on which Naples Ls built 
 may be compared to amphitheatres opening to the sea, and 
 the terraced hills may be called the tiers of seats, one above 
 another. This peculiar conformation affords a pleasing variety 
 to the aspect of the city, while Vesuvius and the high cliffs of 
 volcanic rocks add to its grandeur. Unite to these character- 
 istics the effect of the most exquisite tints in sky, clouds, sea, 
 rocks, and all distant objects, and we have a paradise for arti.sU. 
 
 We went with a friend to call upon Count Gigliano to see 
 his collection of autograj)hs, comprising a large number, includ- 
 ing those of sovereigns, statesmen, generals, literary men, and 
 artists of different countries and periods. It was interesting 
 to see the remarkable chirography of many of these eminent 
 persons ; here were all styles of writing, except a correct style, 
 of which there was hardly an example. 
 
 Our linguistic family at the hotel remains unchanged, unless, 
 it may be, some new members have been added. Euroin^ans 
 have a remarkable talent for conversation ; it seems they only 
 needed to begin, and words flowed spontaneously ; perhaps it
 
 204 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 arises from their acquaintance with many different languages. 
 The continental nations are brought into so close contact, it 
 is important, if not essential, to understand one another's lan- 
 guage. 
 
 We met a friend who came to Italy some years ago to per- 
 fect her musical education, and who is now fulfilling an engage- 
 ment at Naples. As she has married an Italian, she will 
 probably spend her life here. In the evening we went to hear 
 this American sing in the opera as a prima donna represent- 
 ing Lady Macbeth. The weather for two days has been very 
 cold for this region, and snow partially covers Vesuvius, while 
 the more distant mountains are completely enveloped in their 
 white mantles. Stormy and unfavorable weather affords an 
 opportunity for rest and the study of Corsi, an interesting work 
 on antique marbles, written in Italian. The houses of this 
 country are ill adapted to cold weather, and it is surprising to 
 see how the natives seem to thrive on so few comforts in lodg- 
 ing, food, and raiment. 
 
 Another visit to the Museum which contains three remark- 
 able works, the Farnese Bull, the Hercules, and the Flora, 
 mentioned before. The Farnese Group is considered the 
 largest known cut from a single block of marble. In the room 
 of the Flora, the pavement contains a mosaic representing a 
 battle of Alexander the Great. Beautiful columns of different 
 kinds of stone are placed in the various apartments. From the 
 ramparts we had a fine view of the Bay of Naples. Thence we 
 proceeded to the northeast part of the city, where are the 
 Botanical Gardens and the Reclusorio. The Via Cavour is a 
 wide and pleasant street, but the Strada Cabonara is probably 
 the broadest thoroughfare in the town, while the Toledo presents 
 the busy life of Broadway, New York, or Washington Street, 
 Boston. The cold weather induced us to postpone our return 
 to Rome until the next week, and in the meantime we visited 
 Portici and Resina ; the latter town is built over the buried city 
 of Herculaneum. The excavations were not extensive, and to 
 be reached one must descend flights of steps and explore by 
 torch-light. The ruined town was built at a remote period,
 
 NAPLES. 205 
 
 and was the home of many di.stingui.-.lied Uoman.s. The build- 
 ings of the present town of Resina must 1x3 removed Iniforo 
 HercuLaneum can be uncovered, a work re(iuiriiig great lalx)r 
 and expense. The day after our return we were grutified by 
 another long walk on the shore of the beautiful Mediterranean, 
 which has wonderful fascinations ; the views never tire, they 
 never lose their charms. " See Naples and die " has deei)er 
 meaning than can be comprehended by any one who has never 
 been there. 
 
 March 24. The storm of last night has passed away, but itd 
 effects are seen in the surging waves which roll over the high 
 sea wall. We took our last walk by the sea and had our last 
 view of Vesuvius, then called upon our friend to bid her good 
 by, and take her parting message to America. One must feel 
 at times a sense of isolation who has left friends and country 
 forever. The ties of nationality are fortunately very strong in 
 most natures. On the beautiful morning of the 25th, we 
 left Naples for Rome, accompanied by American friends as 
 far as Caserta, where we made a short stop to visit the palace 
 and park at this place. 
 
 An hour's ride brought us to the station, where an amusing 
 incident occurred. A duty is levied on certain articles i)assed 
 from one part of the country to another, wine being inchuled. 
 One of the passengei-s had taken a bottle along with him for 
 lunch, when a custom officer espied it, and insisted on the pay- 
 ment of duty. The traveller, whom we will call Mr. A., paid 
 no attention to his remonstrances, when another ollicer came to 
 the aid of the first one. Mr. A. walked on between the two 
 officials quite unconcerned until, seeing he could not escape 
 from his captors, he dashed the bottle on the ground, which 
 summarily ended the contest. The wine cost only fifty cen- 
 times, or about ten cents. The disconcerted olhcers innnedi- 
 ately retraced their steps, and left us to continue our journey ; 
 but the affair gave amusement to the crowd of cabmen, hotel 
 porters, and boys found at railway stations. As our hotel was 
 near the station, we declined offers from porters, and insistc-d 
 on having our own way, which required much heroism, as they
 
 206 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 followed US to the inn. JNIany of these people have no means 
 of subsistence, except what they can get from travellers. Even 
 railway ofiQcials sometimes resort to dishonest methods by 
 demanding fees, over-estimating the weight of baggage, and in 
 making change. 
 
 On arriving at Caserta, after making arrangements with the 
 hotel clerk for accommodations, we made our first visit to the 
 royal palace, now unoccupied, an immense structure, built of 
 travertine, with some brick-work in the upper stories ; the 
 ground story comprises large arcades, with immense clustered 
 columns of travertine and marble. From the portico a mag- 
 nificent staircase of unpolished lumachelle marble ascends to 
 the upper story, while the walls of the building are covered 
 with different species of marble arranged to represent grotesque 
 human figures ; one is said to resemble that of Napoleon, but it 
 requires a vivid imagination to detect the similarity, while 
 other figures might easily pass for ogres, giants, chimeras, and 
 the like. The ceilings of the different apartments were deco- 
 rated by frescos, but there was little furniture left in the 
 spacious rooms. 
 
 This palace afforded an excellent study of ornamental and 
 precious stones employed in its decoration, though it comprised 
 only a few statues. The theatre contains twelve columns, 
 which are said to be alabaster, and taken from the Temple of 
 Jupiter Serapis, at Pozzuoli. Passing through the palace, we 
 came to a wide, straight avenue, with fountains and rows of 
 oaks covered with dense foliage on either side. Through the 
 centre of this avenue, for the distance of nearly two miles, the 
 water flows and forms artificial cascades and small lakes, then 
 disappears in subterranean channels, and finds an outlet some- 
 where. The source of this peculiar channel is a mountain on 
 the farther side of the park, where the water falls in several 
 small streams down the steep side, then over a large artificial 
 cascade, besides several other streams of inferior size. The 
 long avenue is lined with statues, single or in groups, repre- 
 senting heathen characters and animals. In the upper cascade 
 are seen those of Diana and her nymphs, comprising nine fig-
 
 NAPLES. 207 
 
 ures, and Actoeon, who is passing througli his transfonuiilion 
 into a stag, and is surrounded hy twelve dogs, wliile hlalints 
 are scattered about everywhere witli a hvvisli hand. This cele- 
 brated avenue passes directly throngh tiie palace, and is five 
 miles in length, thus affording a royal driveway over a smooth 
 road between rows of shady trees. We spent the night at 
 Caserta, and during the time there was a storm of thunder, 
 rain, hail, and snow, attended by cold, and the next day wo 
 made preparations to return to Rome, after an absence of six 
 weeks in Naples and its vicinity.
 
 208 PLEASAN2 MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 A Second Visit to Eome. — Other Italian Cities. 
 
 Traces of the storm of last night, March 26, were 
 observed on the route from Naples to Rome, both on the 
 mountains which were covered with snow, and in the plains 
 where traces of the tempest remained ; and on arriving there, 
 we learned the weather, for the most of the time during our 
 absence, had been cold and stormy at the capital. We 
 returned to the Hotel Milano, but found all the guests, 
 including Americans, strangers ; therefore we had to form new 
 acquaintances. Almost immediately we resumed our visits to 
 the public buildings, notably the churches, for the purpose of 
 studying the works of art and antique marbles. On the 27th 
 we examined six churches, and the next day the Churches of 
 Santa Maria in Ara Coeli, and Santa Maria Liberatrice, thence 
 we proceeded to the Roman Forum. There are few objects 
 more interesting and instructive than the ruins of a once 
 magnificent city, and it is from these that we are more forcibly 
 impressed with a sense of the grandeur of the former "Mistress 
 of the World." The Church of Santa Maria in Transtevere is 
 very rich in decorations, and has twenty-eight large granite 
 columns, with bases and capitals more or less ornamented, 
 besides four pilasters incased in Cipolla marble, while the high 
 altar is supported by four red porphyry columns. The Trib- 
 une is covered with antique mosaics of different periods, and 
 on some of the walls are paintings representing saints on a 
 gold ground, while mosaics ornament the fa9ade, and early 
 inscriptions are seen in tlie portico. This church is a basilica, 
 and was first constructed in 499 A. D., but was subsequently 
 rebuilt.
 
 HOME AND OTHER ITALIAN CITIES. 200 
 
 The Church of St. Cecilia in Tmnstevere was orij;inally the 
 house of the saint, and a stone in one of the chapeLs is claiim-tl 
 to be the one on which she sufrereil martyrdom. Hefore tlie 
 high altar, is her shrine, with a reclining stjitue of St. Cecilia in 
 white marble, representing lier as she was found on opening 
 her sarcophagus in 1599. The shrine is ornamented with rich 
 marbles, alabasters, and gems. Her remains, togL'ther witli 
 those of other saints, were taken from the CatJicombs of 
 St. Calixtus, and buried in the crypt. This church hivs some 
 ancient paintings, including a Madonna by Annabali Caracci, 
 a Crucifixion, by Fra Angelico, and frescos by Pinturicehio, 
 and other masters. Some of the churches we had seen on our 
 first visit to this city were revisited. Tliat of St. Pnusede has 
 the pillar, according to tradition, to which our Saviour \v;i8 
 confined for scourging, but no allusion to a pillar is made by 
 the scriptures. It is, however, considered important that every 
 church should have some sacred relic, to inspire the languid 
 devotions of the worshippers, and spurious mementos answer 
 the purpose if the deception is not found out. No woman is 
 allowed to enter the chapel except on Sunday, or in the se;u>on 
 of Lent ; but men, being remarkable for their superior sanctity, 
 can enter at all times. We made a third visit to the Cai)itolini 
 Museum, and the next day, April 1, went to St. Peter's and 
 the Vatican Collection, a visit that was repeated several times. 
 April 3 found us in the Gallery of the Candelabra; but lx.'fore 
 we had made much progress an unwelcome custodian appeared 
 with authority to drive us all out, as if we had been intruders. 
 As the gate was open, we could not understand the reason for 
 the act, and inquired the cause, when the custodian told a long 
 story, from which we inferred that the guardian of the depart- 
 ment was absent, and it was necessary to close it, lest, perlmps, 
 some visitor might cany off a statue, a vase, or a column. 
 
 Though we had visited St. John Lateran on a former occa- 
 sion, we took another opportunity to study this interesting 
 church, one of the most important in the city, on account of 
 its early connection with the papal palace. The Court of the 
 Monastery contains two carved columns from Solomon's
 
 210 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 Temple, and in the court stands the frame of a well, made of 
 white marble covered with carving, said to have been brought 
 also from the Temple. The stalls in the Choir Chapel contain 
 statues in wood, and the Sacristy has a painting of the Annun- 
 ciation, by Venusti, from the drawing of Michael Angelo. 
 Near this church is the Scala Santa, which the Saviour 
 ascended ; it was brought from Pilate's palace, and was con- 
 structed of Tyrian marble. Not far off is the oldest obelisk 
 known, one hundred and four feet in height, first erected at 
 Thebes, in Egypt, 1600 B. C, or nearly thirty -five hundred 
 years ago. The Colosseum, the Arch of Constantine, and the 
 Arch of Titus received another visit. 
 
 The forenoon of April 5 was spent in the churches studying 
 the beautiful marbles, and in the afternoon we went to the 
 Villa Doria Pamfili, said to be one of the most charming of 
 Roman villas ; but we felt disappointed, and regretted the 
 time and trouble it cost us. In our visit to the Church of St. 
 Andrea della Yalle, we were shown the hand of St. Catherine 
 of Sienna, though to confess the truth, we were more inter- 
 ested in the marbles. Another visit was made to St. Pietro in 
 Vincoli, which contains the magnificent statue of Michael 
 Angelo's Moses. Other churches received our attention, in- 
 cluding Santa Maria del Anima, which contains two imposing 
 monuments, one of Pope Hadrian VI., and the other of Prince 
 Charles Frederic ; but the most elaborate " deposito " is in a 
 small church adjoining; it is of white marble, with carving, 
 statues, and reliefs, and two sarcophagi with reclining figures ; 
 here is also the tomb of one of the Gregorys. St. Luigi de 
 Francesi is very gaudily decorated, and contains several 
 monuments of eminent Frenchmen, and also that of Claude 
 Lorrain. The Church of San Marco, with its showy columns 
 and pilasters, has a peculiar appearance, but, like most others, 
 contains some beautiful marbles. We called upon an Italian 
 lady for a " permisso " to visit the Palace Torlonia, not open 
 to the public, and were promised that one should be left at 
 our hotel, but we did not receive it, therefore concluded it 
 was not sent. A Scotch family of six persons, who for some
 
 ROME AND OTHER ITALIAN CITIES. 211 
 
 time have been our fellow-travellers, leave Koine tomorrow, 
 so we shall be quite isolated as re^nirds our native language. 
 
 April 11 we made what is probably (tur bust visit to St. 
 Peter's and the Vatican. We have been there so many limen, 
 they seem like familiar objects, yet they never tire, and one 
 can always find in them something new. Tljonght.s of prepur- 
 ing for another journey are occupying our time, when we shall 
 revisit Paris and London, before embarking for America. In 
 the meantime we shall be occupied with new scenes or in 
 reviving recollections of old ones. Sunday, Ai)ril 14, we 
 went to hear a sermon in English, by an Irisli priest. The 
 part of his sermon on the atonement we could accept; but wlien 
 he introduced the papal doctrine of transubstantiation, we 
 were not in sympathy with the speaker. 
 
 It would not be the proper thing to leave Rome witliout 
 visiting the Tarpeian Rock, therefore we took some pains to 
 get there. Passing into a garden through a gate opened by a 
 custodian, we were shown a very steep rock that looked like a 
 wall on which buildings were erected. The place was so 
 enclosed by houses that it was impossible to get an accurate 
 idea of its height, but it did not seem great: perhajw, like 
 other parts of Rome, the present land has been elevated by 
 the accumulation of soil and Mhv\& of the centuries. It is so 
 near the Capitol and the prison, that criminals did not have far 
 to go from their dungeons to death. The Marmatine prison or 
 the Career Marmatinus of the old Romans, is a place of great 
 tragical interest, connected wath ancient Rome. It is near 
 the Capitol, and consists of a deep pit or well into which 
 prisoners were let down by a rope. The bottom was covered 
 with water to a considerable depth, into which the accused was 
 plunged. His food was lowered to him unless he was left to 
 starve, as was the case of an eminent Roman. Here Paul waa 
 incarcerated when a prisoner in Rome. A church is now built 
 
 over it. 
 
 April 15 we walked to the Piazza de Spagna and through the 
 Corso for the last time. We have spent nearly tliree months 
 in this wonderful city, but its treasures of art and its numerous
 
 212 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 antiquities have not lost their fascinations. Rome, though less 
 beautiful than man}' other cities, has nevertheless a power over 
 the imagination which no others have. It was the centre of 
 the old Roman power, as it now is of the papal ; hence its 
 ruins and churches are the most interesting in Europe if, per- 
 haps, we except the ruins of Greece. 
 
 April 16, a warm and pleasant day, we left Rome for 
 Sienna, by the way of Chiusi, through a region not particularly 
 interesting, and arrived at our destination late in the evening. 
 As our stop at Sienna was to be short, we were obliged to make 
 the most of our time, in spite of the rain, and made our first 
 visit to the Church of St. Dominico. This edifice is peculiar, 
 lofty and massive, and in the Gothic style with an open roof, 
 that is, with no covering for the rafters, and is undecorated. 
 The Chapel of St. Catherine of Sienna is adorned by some good 
 frescos illustrating events in the life of the saint, by Sodoma, 
 while her heart is contained in a silver reliquary. The high 
 altar is of white marble ; the ciborium is generally ascribed to 
 Michael Angelo. From the church we went to the Instituto 
 delle Belle Arte. A large part of the paintings are by Siennese 
 masters, consisting of Madonnas and saints, and a more gloomy 
 company of saints it would be difficult to find. If these 
 figures represent the men and women of the times, there must 
 have been a great improvement in the physical type of the race 
 since those days. They were painted with very dark com- 
 plexions and melancholy features expressing no emotions of 
 joy. There were, however, a small number of pictures worthy 
 of notice, comprising a copy of Raphael's Madonna della Perla, 
 at Madrid, the Morra-players by Caravagio, SS. Catherine and 
 Magdelina by Fra Bartolommeo. The Church of St. Giovanni 
 is conspicuous for its maible front with bronze reliefs. A 
 baptism occurred at the time of our visit ; and the young can- 
 didate, like a little heathen, protested with all his might 
 ao-ainst the ceremony ; he evidently belonged to the " church 
 militant." The Duomo, in the Gothic style, is built of white, 
 red, and black marble, and is ornamented with sculptures, 
 while the walls of the interior afford alternate stripes of black
 
 ROME AND OTHER ITALIAN CITIES. 213 
 
 and white ; the effect of such an armncrement is not altojrether 
 pleasing. The vaulting has a dark ground, with gilt stars and 
 bright colored frescos ; but the aljsence of anticpje niarblca i« 
 conspicuous, and in striking contrast to the churches of Home 
 and Naples. The famous pulpit by Nicola and Giovanni 
 Pisano, of white marble, covered with high and low rtdicfs, i^i 
 supported by granite and marble columns. Four of these rest 
 on the backs of lions, and four on white bases, while a column 
 in the centre has a base with figures in relief. The w<M»d 
 carving in the choir and on the reading-desk, and also 
 the intasio of inlaid wood are very elegant. Statues and 
 monuments are seen in this Cathedral, but it differs from most 
 others in Italy, in its stained glass windows. The library 
 contains a large number of illuminated books, with l>eautiful 
 paintings and designs. The pavement of tiie building con- 
 sists of mosaic- work of different patterns and representations 
 in marble, which is called " grafiito," though some of the pave- 
 ment was covered. The Cathedral of Sienna is open to criti- 
 cism ; its parti-colored interior and exterior do not seem in 
 good taste, while the stucco busts of the cornice do not add to 
 its architectural beauty. 
 
 The Palazzo Publico, with the Tower del Mangia near, re- 
 minds one of the Vecchio of Plorence, and some other struct- 
 ures. The Del Campo being depressed in the centre affords a 
 peculiar aspect, which might be compared to a large dish, 
 while at one side is the Fountain Gaga, with its wliite marble 
 basin carved in relief. Sienna is built on a series of hills, 
 therefore the streets ascend and descend. Most Italian cities 
 occupy hills or rocky heights, with castles and other fortifica- 
 tions. The houses are near together, very high and with 
 small windows, a necessity in past ages for defence against the 
 lawless condition of society, but they now api)ear like a mass 
 of dingy stone walls, without regularity, beauty, or comfort. 
 
 Our route to Pisa lay along a region of picturesque towns, 
 generally built on hills, and with fertile valleys and olive 
 orchards along the way. A town on a liigh eminence, named 
 Sinalunga, is the place where Garibaldi w;is arrested on his
 
 214 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 march to Rome, 1867. At Empoli a change of train was made 
 for Pisa, where we arrived about noon, April 18. We soon found 
 our way to the Duomo and the celebrated Leaning Tower. 
 The Cathedral, built in 1063, is of white marble which has a 
 yellowish tint, the result of age, but the trimmings are of 
 colored stone. The Baptistery and Campanile, or Tower, have 
 the same appearance. The church is three hundred and 
 twelve feet in length, with nave and double aisles, and the 
 transepts are also flanked with aisles. The facade is very 
 beautiful ; the lower story contains columns and arches 
 attached to the walls, while there are four tiers of open gal- 
 leries diminishing in height towards the top. On each side 
 of the principal door stands a white marble column, with beau- 
 tiful carving. Indeed, the entire fagade is ornamented with 
 exquisite mouldings, mosaics, and reliefs. The three bronze 
 doors, with borders of vines and leaves, are sculptured with 
 scenes in relief, from Scripture. These doors were sub- 
 stituted for those of an earlier date, but one belonging to the 
 twelfth century, is placed at the opposite end of the church. 
 The sixty-eight ancient Greek and Roman columns of granite 
 and marble, taken by the Pisans, the gilded and coffered ceiling, 
 the stained-glass window, the lofty triforia, with gilded ceiling, 
 the transepts that seem like separate churches, with imposing 
 altars and statues, the famous carved pulpit and bronze lamp, 
 the rich carving and tasio of the choir, the high altar of 
 lapis-lazuli, and other valuable stones ornamented with fig- 
 ures of angels, the mosaics of the apse, by Cimabue, the num- 
 ber and size of oil paintings, the mosaic pavement, and other 
 rich decorations render the Cathedral of Pisa one of the 
 most beautiful and interesting in Italy. 
 
 The Baptistery is a circular building, a little more than one 
 hundred feet in diameter and, with the dome, rises one hun- 
 dred and ninety feet. The building rests on nine columns, 
 standing on the backs of lions ; in the centre is the font. 
 Every part is highly ornamented with sculptures, mosaics, etc. 
 This building is celebrated for its wonderful echo, of which 
 the custodian gave us an illustration by singing a few strains,
 
 SOME AND OTHER ITALIAN CITIES. 21'* 
 
 when there seeiiiecl to be two voices in dilTerent kevH, but 
 there was perfect harmony. It is said that if tlisconhmt notes 
 are given the echo will be harmonious. 
 
 The Campanile, or Leaning Tower, is ont- Imndred and 
 seventy-nine feet high, and is tliirteen feet out of perpendicu- 
 lar. Viewed from the exterior, it seems insecure, while its 
 architectural beauty is diminished l)y ita inclination ; but tho 
 details are very graceful and admirable. It rises in eight dif- 
 ferent stories, similar to the Cathedral and P>a[)tisteiy, by two 
 hundred and ninety-four steps. We ascended the tower, and 
 the prospect gained from the dilTerent o[)enings wivs peculiar. 
 "We felt that the tower was upright, while all the object^s 
 about us were leaning. This fact might point a moral : " W,- 
 are right, the rest of the world are wrong." The only compen- 
 sation we had for our trouble was to say that we had been in 
 the Leaning Tower. These three buildings are remarkable in- 
 stances of harmony in designs and ornaments, as if they had 
 been the work of a single mind ; but the Duomo was l>epun 
 in 1063, the Baptistery in 1153, and the Campanile or Hell 
 Tower in 1174, all by different architects. 
 
 The Campo Santo of Pisa, begun in 1278, is a quadrangular 
 building, comprising a series of Gothic arches opening upon a 
 court, similar to cloisters. The walls are covered with frescos, 
 and the monuments, both ancient and modern, are arranged 
 along the covered gallery or passage. In the open space is the 
 sacred soil brought from J\It. Calvary. There are few memo- 
 rable places that have disappointed us more than this Campo 
 Santo of Pisa. We had expected to see a large numU>r of 
 fine monuments, while, on the contrary, there are very few in 
 any way remarkable. Pisa, though founded before the Chris- 
 tian era, has a more modern appearance than some other Italian 
 cities. The Lungano reminds the traveller of Florence, while 
 the Arno is about the same in both cities. 
 
 The journey from Pisa to Genoa was memorable, on account 
 of the picturesque scenery, save the fifty or more tunnels 
 through which the road lay. We passed along the coa,st of the 
 sea, and caught a view of the silver waters, as we diwhed out
 
 216 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 of the tunnels, and glimpses of the steep, rocky promontories on 
 the left, and mountains of marble, with scattered villages, on 
 the right. Nature was smiling in a profusion of beautiful 
 flowers, green fields, and olive orchards. The daisies and heath, 
 with clusters of yellow blossoms, remind one of England and 
 Scotland later in the season than April 19. Soon after leav- 
 ing Pisa we passed clusters of peasants' cottages made entirely 
 of thatch, differing from the English thatched-roof cottages. 
 They have no windows ; but a door of boards, placed generally 
 in one end, serves not only as a means of ingress and egress, 
 but also for light and air. These habitations, which resemble 
 haystacks, have become blackened by long exposure to the 
 weather. The region of the quarries was indicated by the 
 blocks of marble along the route, and sometimes by a ledge 
 on the sides of the mountains. 
 
 As we approached Genoa, the parti-colored and frescoed 
 buildings presented a novel appearance. These peculiar deco- 
 rations are occasionally seen in other places, but here they 
 seem to be the general type. Finally, we reached the city 
 once so famous in maritime history. 
 
 In regard to the churches of Genoa, that of the Annunziata is 
 one of the richest in marbles, frescos, and gilding in the city. 
 St. Siro, St. Ambrogio, and the Cathedral St. Lorenzo are all 
 highly ornamented. The old palace of the doges and the 
 monument to Columbus were objects of interest. The Palazzo 
 Ducale, or Doge's Palace, is reached by a very broad staircase. 
 We were admitted to the hall of audience, it is presumed, with 
 walls, pilasters, and pavement covered with marble called 
 Brocatello di Spagna. The ceiling was frescoed, and there 
 were a few paintings ; but for a state building of the powerful 
 Republic of Genoa, it was very plain. 
 
 The Palazzo Pallavicini, now belonging to the Durazzo fam- 
 ily, has a collection of very good paintings comprising some of 
 the celebrated masters, — Caracci, Guido Rene, Domenichino, 
 and others of the Bolognese school. One room contained paint- 
 ings representing scenes in the life of Achilles, a pleasant 
 change from the oft-repeated Madonnas and saints. Besides
 
 J'l Lrir, Pisa. 
 
 I'lLPIT. I'ISA. 
 
 Statue ok Leonardo i>a Vin' i. 
 
 « ATIlt I'KAI.. •■»»•'*•
 
 ROME AND OTHER ITALIAN CITIES. 1>17 
 
 those masters just nametl, Van Dyke, Titiiin, KuIkmis, AUwrt 
 Diirer, Del Sarto, Veronese, Tintoretto, Guercino, witli <itln.TH, 
 were represented in tliis gallery. 
 
 The Terazzo di Marno is abroad promenade, built of marble, 
 above a series of arcades, alTording an excelKMit view of llio 
 harbor with its shipping, while beneatli the walk are the niil- 
 way and docks ; the neighborhood, however, is not altogether 
 agreeable for the pedestrian. To reai-h the Terrace, one nuiHt 
 pass through the part of the city ai)propriatc'd to tlie business 
 of shii)ping and railway transit. Viewed from this place, the 
 Church of Santa Maria in Carignano did not appear very far 
 off, therefore we concluded to visit the building, but wo were 
 deceived in regard to the distance. Several narrow streets and 
 steep ascents in the neighborhood of wharves had to be tniv- 
 ersed before reaching the Ponte Carignano, a bridge over a 
 street one hundred feet below. This led to the church, which 
 was closed ; but after ringing a bell, and waiting some time, 
 the custodian finally opened the door. The site on which the 
 church stands is one hundred and seventy-four feet alwve 
 the sea level, and affords a good view of the Mediterranean 
 and the semi-circular coast line of hills covered by the city. 
 The highest gallery of the dome of the building is three 
 hundred and sixty-eight feet above the sea. 
 
 The situation of Genoa resembles that of Naples, only leas 
 beautiful and varied, at least from this eminence. The great 
 number of its palaces seems to be its most striking feature ; 
 some of the streets are crowded with them, which is a proof of 
 the wealth and luxurious habits of the citizens of the Ik'public. 
 There appears to be considerable business activity and love of 
 commercial pursuits, that characterized the early inhabitants. 
 About six miles from Genoa, on the coast, is the Villa Palla- 
 vicini, which is an interesting place to visit. It affonls majiy 
 charming views and many agreeable surprises, in the various 
 winding paths that conduct the visitor from one eminence to 
 another. Here are seen flowers in great profusion all along 
 the pathways,— Camillas, azalias, oleanders, violets, roses, etc., 
 permeating the air with their sweet perfumes. Besides, these
 
 218 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 are kiosques or summer-houses in different styles, fountains, 
 tiny cascades, lakes, grottos, and other imitations of nature. 
 The grounds are on the slopes receding from the sea; and on 
 the highest point stands a tower overlooking the water, the 
 mountains, and villas on their sides. One of the most inter- 
 esting objects in these grounds is a large grotto of natural 
 stalactites brought from the Island of Sardinia. It has many 
 intricate windings, some of which are filled with water from a 
 small artificial lake, and deep enough to sail a boat. We were 
 conducted through several dark passages to one of the boats, 
 evidently waiting for a passenger. The guide then said 
 " embarke," and having obeyed, he wished us a " bon voyage." 
 The boatman, by some dexterous manoeuvres, brought his craft 
 around several sharp angles, and emerged into an open sheet of 
 water. After sailing about for a little time we were landed on 
 a small island, where our guide met us to complete the tour of 
 the grounds. We returned by a different waj?-, thus giving one 
 a greater variety of scenery. This villa has not so many works 
 of art as the Roman villas, but it surpasses them in natural 
 beauty. The gardens are very extensive and varied in their 
 tropical productions, — coffee, vanilla, cinnamon, pepper, sugar- 
 cane, camphor, and others. 
 
 The park called Acquasola, in the north part of the city, 
 contains nothing of special interest except its small trees, 
 which make it an agreeable place for walking and resting in 
 pleasant weather, and for the fine view of the bay and the 
 adjacent hills covered with dwellings ; the best prospect is 
 obtained from the Villa Negro, on the summit of a hill which 
 is reached by winding promenades. The magnificent build- 
 ings of Genoa form a special feature, while its commercial 
 activity distinguishes it from some other Italian cities, notably 
 Naples. The art collections are generally found here in pri- 
 vate palaces, most of which are open to the public. The fine 
 arts do not seem to thrive so well in a commercial city, though 
 Genoa has produced some distinguished masters or has been the 
 home of those from other jjlaces, hence some of their works are 
 seen here.
 
 ROME AND OTHER ITALIAN CITIES. 219 
 
 April 25 we left Genoa for Turin, a distance of one hundred 
 and three miles. The first part of the journey was over a Inlly 
 region, and the railway piisses through several tunruds, one 
 being two miles in length. After reaching Alessandria, the n*- 
 gion is level. Many places of historical intercst are passed 
 during the entire journey ; as Novi, the scene f)f :i hatile 
 between the French and the Austrians August 1'), IT'.''.'; 
 Marengo, not far off, where the great battle of 1800 wan fought, 
 and Asti, the birthplace of the poet Alfieri. On arriving at 
 Turin we went to the Cathedral and found the Capella del 
 St. Sudario open, which, it is said, contains the linen cloth in 
 which the body of our Lord was wrapped niivv his d.-ath. 
 The chapel back of the high altar is very peculiar ; the as- 
 cent is made by thirty-seven steps, and the toj) is crowned by 
 a dome. The circular walls are covered with a very dark 
 marble, which in the dim light appears black, in striking con- 
 trast to the white marble monuments. The Dukes of Savoy 
 are buried here, also Maria Adelaid, the queen of Victor 
 Emmanuel, who died in 1855. From the church we went to 
 the Monastery of the Capuchins, on the east side of the I'o. 
 After walking through the Via di Po, with arcades on both 
 sides, and the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele, and cro.ssing the 
 Ponte di Po, we saw before us on an eminence the monaster}' 
 and church. 
 
 The road to the summit winds around the hill, from which a 
 charming prospect was enjoyed, broadening at every turn jus 
 we ascended; and when we had gained the terrace in front of 
 the church, it was magnificent. Below was the city, with iIh 
 fine streets and piazzas; beyond, fertile hills and plains, and, 
 above all, the snow-crowned Alps, forming an outer barrier for 
 this amphitheatre of nature and art combined. Views from 
 these hills are seldom surpassed for extent and magnificence. 
 Near by was the Superga, with its church, the sepulchre of the 
 
 royal family. 
 
 Though Turin cannot boast of its ancient and meilueval 
 palaces,'found in most other Italian cities, yet it surpasses all 
 others for its fine, wide streets, it^ numerous piaz/a-s, and himd-
 
 220 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 some buildings. It has a public garden, inviting promenades, 
 and extensive driveways, and seems to be preeminently a mod- 
 ern city for this venerable country. The most peculiar public 
 building was the Jewish Synagogue, not completed, of im- 
 mense height, ending in a structure half dome, half tower. At 
 eleven o'clock, the time for opening to the public, we were at 
 the palace, when the guide, as usual, hurried us through a 
 series of apartments, so that we could hardly tell what they 
 contained. Palaces are wonderfully alike in general features ; 
 and after having seen hundreds before, it was a needless waste 
 of time, strength, and money in fees. It contains rooms with 
 beautiful marquetry, some pictures, and other objects of inter- 
 est. The queen's reception-room was decorated with Chinese 
 vases of different sizes, and other Chinese ornaments. The 
 Royal Armory contained a fine collection of ancient armor, 
 some of the weapons being rich in gems, gold, silver, and in- 
 laid work. The mounted horsemen looked very formidable ; 
 one of the most interesting weapons was the sword of Napo- 
 leon, worn at the battle of Marengo. 
 
 Walking through the streets we saw a large number of 
 statues, but the finest monument was that of Cavour. Having 
 paid our silent homage to the great statesman, we entered a 
 church in the Piazza St. Carlo, and heard a sermon in Italian, a 
 language which seems adapted to the uses of persuasion, at 
 which the natives are adepts. There is something very capti- 
 vating in their tones and gestures and rising inflections, seen 
 and heard everywhere, which makes it difficult to refuse a 
 street beggar. The Cathedral, like other similar buildings, 
 was decorated with marbles, frescos, and gilding. The 
 Academy of Art has a very good collection, and the Egyptian 
 Museum contains interesting specimens of papyri. The paint- 
 ings occupy a number of rooms, and include many fine 
 pictures. 
 
 As we are about to leave Turin for Paris, we will close our 
 journal of six months' travel in this fascinating land with 
 some remarks on the country and its people as they appeared 
 to us. Italy affords inexhaustible sources of interesting
 
 ROME AND OTHER ITALIAN CITIES. 221 
 
 studies; its treasures of art :iiul ;uitii[uities are [jcrliajw unsur- 
 passed, and, in most cases, are open free to tnivt-llerH from 
 every part of the world. The natives are civil, {xjliUi, ohlig- 
 ing, and agreeable ; they appear liappy, and temperate in their 
 habits; they are never brusque, dictatorial, or jussuniing. Tlio 
 lower classes appear to be very poor, and are soniutinjcs repul- 
 sive in their personal appearance ; they are dependent largely 
 upon what they can obtain by begging ; therefore it is not 
 strange they should sometimes practise deception, to obtain a 
 small gift from strangers. The business habits of the Italians 
 are unfavorable for themselves. They charge foreigners a 
 higher price for their goods or their services tlian tiieir real 
 value, and the same is true of hotel accommodations ; but after 
 considerable bickering, they recede from their fii-st demands. 
 No one of any experience in travel would be so injudicious aa 
 to accept the terms first offered ; indeed, they do not expect it. 
 Poor Italy ! for so many centuries divided into ]K.'tty 
 sovereignties, oppressed and robbed by her rulers, luus just 
 begun to know the advantages of a united country, and to 
 awake to a progressive activity; but the great need seems to be 
 want of resources, more money, and more avenues of business 
 for her teeming population. Travellers often condemn the 
 practice of public begging so common in this country, in spite 
 of the royal interdict, as well as the custom of feeing the ser- 
 vants. They are nuisances, to be sure; but on the otiier hand, 
 one should not forget what Italy gives in return, wlmt 
 treasures of art are free to the tourists, what collections are 
 found in her palaces, churches, and ruins; and if these places 
 were closed, or made difficult of access, what a loss to the world 
 it would prove. Let us give our help and sympathy to a 
 struggling people who seem grateful for trilling gitts; and 
 though some of them may be unworthy objects of charity, 
 suffering probably made them so, and does not the kind Father 
 of all bestow his blessings upon the evil ami the gt)od ? And 
 does he not pity the erring with a divine compiuision, though 
 undeserving of his favor?
 
 222 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 
 From Turin to Paris. 
 
 April 29 we left Italy for Paris, and journeyed through an 
 interesting region, insight of the snow-covered Alps, sometimes 
 directly at their base. These grand mountains were like famil- 
 iar objects which had been lost to our view many months, until 
 we arrived at Turin. The scenery between this place and 
 Modane is fine and sometimes magnificent, though there are 
 not many important towns on the route. Of the few notable 
 objects is the Abbey of S. Michele della Chiusi or La Sagra, 
 near San Ambrogia, with its tombs, which possess the quality 
 of petrifying deceased bodies. A great number of tunnels are 
 passed before we reach the celebrated Mt. Cenis tunnel, which, 
 by the way, is not under Mt. Cenis, but another mountain, 
 the Col de Frejus, eighty-three hundred and thirty-eight 
 feet in height. The passage is eight miles long, with a 
 descent from the Italian side of three hundred and sixty-one 
 feet; and the depth below the top of the mountain is four 
 thousand and ninety-three feet ; hence we had that amount of 
 solid earth or rock over our heads during thirty minutes, the 
 time required to pass through it. The tunnel, twenty-six feet 
 wide and nineteen feet high, was begun in 1861, and finished 
 in 1870, and cost seventy-five hundred thousand francs, or 
 fifteen hundred thousand dollars. Mt. Cenis, which gives the 
 name to the tunnel, is seventeen miles east of it. This remark- 
 able work has rendered useless the famous Mt. Cenis military 
 road, built by Napoleon 1802-05. 
 
 At Modane, France, the custom-house officials pretended to 
 examine our baggage, but they barely looked at it, and sent it 
 forward to be inspected in Paris. We were obliged to change
 
 liAiKw AY Station l'Aiti« 
 
 The Makeline, I'aki-
 
 TURIN TO PARIS. 228 
 
 railway carriages at this place, a disagreiNihlu experience whicli 
 was repeated four times during a journey of live ImuuIixhI niiloH, 
 and in a rainy night. Few object,s of interest were pjwjmmI, 
 unless it be the stone quarries, which yiehlcd a lightrcoloicd 
 stone, some of which resembled that of the Paris Miusin. Am 
 far as we could judge, it was a calcareous rock, extensively 
 used for building in that region. 
 
 It is always a disagreeable experience to arrive at a railway 
 station in a large city, especially early in the morning. Tnivel- 
 ling in France was not so agreeable as in Italy ; the railway 
 officials are less accommodating ; there were no porters at the 
 stations except in a single instance, and on arriving at Paris we 
 were obliged to wait a long time before we could get our lug- 
 gage, and then the cabmen did not seem ready to attend to 
 passengers, or anxious to be employed. Tiie rain was pouiing 
 in torrents, and by the time we had secured our baggage, there 
 was no carriage to be had, and we were obliged to go in an 
 omnibus to our " pension," or boarding-house, in the Rue de la 
 Sorbonne, a long distance from the station. At length our 
 temporary home was reached ; and though our rooms were not 
 altogether what we could wish, in other respects our accommo- 
 dations were comfortable, and the family kind and agrt-eable. 
 During this, our second visit to Paris, we hope to gain a more 
 extended knowledge of tliis famous city and its environs than 
 was possible during our first acquaintance in the preceding 
 
 year. 
 
 May 1. The Paris Exposition is to Ijc formally oiHjned 
 to-day, and though the morning was stormy, yet towards noon 
 the rain ceased, and the sun came out bright and warm. A 
 party, comprising our hostess and her daughter, with a number 
 of her guests, went to see the procession, which comprised 
 many distinguished persons, including the Prince and Princess 
 of Wales, the Prince of Denmark, the president of the Kei.ub- 
 lic, and other notables, attended by an escort of soldiers well 
 mounted, though we did not admire the uniform of the French 
 army. The carriages of the more distinguisiied iHirsons in the 
 procession, with their attendants in white livery, made a lino
 
 224 PLTIASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 appearance. Every one seemed happy, notwithstanding fre- 
 quent showers of rain occurred at intervals. In the evening 
 the buildings were illuminated, and the youth were alert all 
 night with shouts and trumpets, fireworks and firecrackers* 
 pretty much as American boys are accustomed to amuse them- 
 selves — we will not say their adult friends — on the nights 
 preceding and succeeding the celebration of the Fourth of 
 July. We have seen nothing that reminds us so forcibly of 
 our native land as the events connected with the opening 
 of the Exposition. 
 
 Having witnessed the grand parade, we spent the next day 
 in attending to our personal affairs, such as collecting our 
 scattered baggage, some of which had been left in the care of 
 our banker, who charged us no trifling sum for its storage. 
 One effectual lesson is taught by travel : that human nature 
 is much the same the world over, that greed is the controlling 
 passion of the race, and that the majority are unscrupulous in 
 the use of means to secure this object. It would not be the 
 proper course to pursue to leave Paris without making some 
 purchases at dry-goods stores, therefore we walked a long dis- 
 tance to Au bon March^ and the Magasin du Louvre, which 
 are of themselves great expositions ; but we found that goods, 
 even in Paris, are not bestowed gratuitously upon purchasers. 
 
 We resumed our visits to ecclesiastical buildings, and paid 
 another to the famous Notre Dame. It appears to us that the 
 churches of some other European countries are superior in 
 architectural beauty to those of Central and Southern Italy, 
 though less rich in decorations, especially the interior. 
 There is no style so noble and magnificent as the Gothic, 
 which admits of almost unlimited forms of ornament, as statu- 
 ary, wood carving, painted glass, etc., but frescos and gilding 
 seem out of place. Sainte Chapelle, as previously described, 
 is a gem, and one of the most perfect examples of Gothic 
 extant. It is enclosed in the courtyard of the Palais de 
 Justice, like a precious stone in a casket, but only the graceful 
 spire can be seen from the street. The Madeleine, in imita- 
 tion of a Grecian temple, is lighted by four domes, and the
 
 NnTKK l>AMi;, I'AUl^. 
 
 ri,A' i: I'l; 1.A Co.\«OKi>, Pauih.
 
 TURIN TO PARIS. 226 
 
 interior comprises a space two hundred and sixty-one feet in 
 length, decorated with colored ghiss, marhles, statues, and 
 paintings. It has a tragical interest, coniiL-cted with tlie (,'oni- 
 munistic war, when, in May, 1871, three hundred rioters, (hiven 
 from their barricades in the Rue Royal, liaving tiiken refuge 
 in this church, were attacked by troops from Versailles, and 
 every one perished. St. Germaine I'Auxerrais, one of tlie 
 historical churches of Paris, is associated with some of the 
 fearful scenes enacted here, while Notre Dame de Lorettc is 
 a modern structure built in the form of a Roman Ijasilica. It 
 suffered from the violence of the Communists in 1871. 
 
 May 4 we made our first visit to the Exposition, wliich we 
 expect to repeat many times. Fountains and plots of flowers 
 were scattered about the grounds, but many weeks must 
 elapse before all the arrangements will be complete, though 
 there is much to be seen and studied at this stage. The 
 French department is, of course, the most nearly complete, if, 
 perhaps, we except the English. The next day, in company 
 with some of the guests at our pension, we went to Versailles, 
 in order to escape from the crowd of a great city. The palace 
 seemed larger, and the park more beautiful, than on our first 
 visit. We had seen a great number of similar places in dif- 
 ferent countries, but for beauty and finish none suri«.sscd 
 Versailles. It is specially notable for its fountains, which 
 attract the attention of the numerous visitoi-s, including IkjIIi 
 sexes and all classes, who collect about them, some sUmling, 
 others seated on the banks, to witness the play of these 
 fountains all together, which occurs on a particular day or 
 occasion. The crowds were cheerful, well behaved, and neatly 
 dressed, even the peasants and servants; no disputing, loud 
 talking, or disorder of any kind. It is necessary for the safety 
 of large cities that the public should be entertained, and an 
 attractive park offers, perhaps, the most harmless amusement. 
 
 The palaces of France must have been, during the mon- 
 archy, very magnificent and, judging from what remains of 
 them, it must have required immense wealth to build and 
 support them, for which the people were taxed, being one of the
 
 226 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 causes of the great Revolution. The Church of the Sorbonne 
 contains the tomb of Cardinal Richelieu, who suffered death 
 by the guillotine. It becomes wearisome to finite minds, to 
 pursue the same subject for days in succession without change, 
 therefore we formed the plan of visiting different places and 
 objects of interest alternately and repeatedly. Following up 
 this method, we went again to the Exposition, and gave some 
 time to the examination of French marbles and other orna- 
 mental stones, though they have not the interest of the Roman 
 antiques. The display of Bohemian glass was large, and much 
 superior to that of Philadelphia, in 1876. The Japanese 
 exhibits were also of a different character, there being fewer 
 bronzes and porcelains, and more of some other articles. Eng- 
 land had a remarkably fine display, next to that of France 
 in size, while the United States was behind most other 
 countries in the number of exhibits, and in the promptness of 
 arrangement, though the cottage connected with this depart- 
 ment was quite attractive. As the grounds and buildings of 
 the Exposition will probably not be fully completed for some 
 time to come, the later visitors will have the advantage of 
 earlier ones. 
 
 The churches of Europe, like museums, need man}'- visits 
 and much careful study, if one wishes to become tolerably well 
 acquainted with their character ; therefore we comprised in our 
 list several of those seen during our first visit, including the 
 Pantheon, previously described. Near this famous building 
 is the Church of St. Etienne du Mont, a large Gothic structure 
 with a very high nave. The pillars supporting the roof are 
 separated by arches, which carry galleries with balustrades. 
 These are reached by spiral staircases on each side of the 
 choir, while the numerous chapels are arranged along the sides 
 of the nave and around the apse. The tomb of St. Genevieve 
 occupies a large chapel decorated with gilt, and the shrine, 
 at which tapers are usually burning, is also gilt. The screen 
 across the nave connecting the spiral staircases consists of 
 open carved wood-work. Like most of the French churches 
 this one contains beautiful painted glass. St. Germaine des
 
 TURiy TO r.inrs. 227 
 
 Pres is a very old church, and the burial-[)laco of tljo French 
 monarchs of the sixth and sevoith centuries. Tho prison 
 connected with the Abbey of this churcli Iwcamc faniouM for 
 the massacre of the prisonei-s in the Kuvohition of 1792. 
 The building is Gothic, and lirst erected by Childel>crt, 550 
 A. D., but has been nearly all reljuilt. The cohnuns of the 
 interior are painted in various colors, the capiUils are gill, tho 
 stalls are carved, and the choir walls are ornamented with 
 painting on gilt ground. It contiiins the remains of two 
 Scottish earls of Angus, those of Boilcau, John Ciusimir \'., 
 King of Poland, and several other distinguished persons. 
 
 Another visit to the Exposition introduced us to the De- 
 partment of Beaux Arts, which contained some good, some 
 mediocre, and some inferior pictures, and (piito a collection 
 of statues. Some of the latter were line, but a good deal of 
 modern sculpture, it seems to us, is wanting in nobility of 
 subjects. They are too commonplace, and lose dignity 
 and power by many accessories or ornaments. An exce^ 
 of drapery, with ruffles, embroidery, lace, and flowers, de- 
 tracts from the beauty and simplicity of sculpture. To 
 delineate the grace and symmetry of the human form is tho 
 object of the plastic art, and not to adorn it by excessive orna- 
 ments. The modern French school of painting is below a 
 high standard of morality. The number of nude figures, for 
 which there is no excuse, is large. People in civilized coun- 
 tries do not go naked ; but here are represented women per- 
 fectly nude in the presence of the other sex, without the leju>t 
 sign of shame or delicacy. Nude figures in painting are more 
 objectionable than such in marble, since the former not only 
 represents form but also flesh ; in fact, all that constitute life 
 and motion, hence it has the greater power to excite the 
 imagination. 
 
 Some beautiful landscapes from Denmark are on exhibition 
 which represent scenes in early summer. The bright, fre»h 
 verdure is charming, and gives one a pleasing imi)rtvvsion of 
 that country, while Switzerland represents her incomparable 
 mountain scenery. One of the paintings delineated a glacier,
 
 228 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 which we had seen at Chamounix. The Dutch masters are 
 represented by exquisite little flower pieces of charming hues. 
 From the Exposition we went to Cluny and the Luxemburg 
 Museums. Cluny reminds one of the antiquities of Rome. 
 Portions of the palace are crumbling into ruins, but in its 
 decay there lingers some of the magnificence of earlier days. 
 It is now a great "curiosity shop," where all sorts of antique 
 objects are collected. The most abundant and richest of these 
 specimens consist of wood carving and inlaid wood. The 
 Church of St. Sulpice is a magnificent building. The front is 
 supported by fluted Doric columns, and its two towers are two 
 hundred and thirty-one feet in height, surpassing those of 
 Notre Dame by nine feet ; the interior is four hundred and 
 sixty feet in length, and the nave is one hundred and nine in 
 height. The altars and chapels extending around the building 
 are decorated with frescos, and a figure of the Madonna, 
 standing on a globe, occupies a niche in the apse. The high 
 Corinthian columns inside the main entrance give a majesty 
 to the interior harmonizing with its immense elevation. In 
 the place opposite is a fountain with the sitting statues of 
 F^n^lon, Bossuet, Flechier, and Massillon. 
 
 May 10 we made another visit to the Exposition, and examined 
 collections of ornamental marbles and the Indian Department 
 of the English exhibits. There is no country except France 
 so well represented as Great Britain. The gifts presented to 
 the Prince of Wales during his visit to India, on exhibition, 
 are very rich and numerous, and attract visitors ; England has 
 also a fine display of home manufactures. The next day we 
 went to L'Ecole des Mines, which has a large collection of 
 minerals not much inferior to that at the Jardin des Plants. 
 
 May 12, being Sabbath, we started for the Greek Church in 
 a distant part of the city ; but as we were delayed by change of 
 transit, the church was closed on our arrival, when we entered 
 Park Monceau, for a short rest. Its streets and avenues were 
 crowded with people, both native and foreign, so that it seemed 
 as if all the nations of the world were represented here. 
 
 The Bibliotheque Nationale is considered the rarest, richest,
 
 TURIN TO PARIS. 229 
 
 and most extensive collection of its kind in the world. It is 
 said to contain two million five lumdriMl tliousuud printed 
 volumes, one hundred and fifty thousand ni;inuHcrii)t«, ono 
 million three hundred thousand engravings, and three hundred 
 thousand maps and charts; the Hall of EngravingH liolds 
 ninety thousand portraits. May 15 imd 16 were given to 
 the Exposition and desultory sight>seeing, including a visit to 
 an artisan's shop to view some work in niarhles, porphyries, 
 serpentines, alabasters, and granites. We purchased a speci- 
 men of Orbicular diorite from Corsica, to add to our collection 
 of antique marbles, mostly obtained in Homo. The Ciiurcii of 
 St. Clotilde is a fine Gothic structure, profuse in j>ainted ghiss ; 
 the interior, though much smaller, resembles tiie Cologne 
 Cathedral. The grand columns are not broken by galleries, 
 and it has little ornament compared with some other churches. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville is in process of building, having Ix'cn 
 burned by the Communists May, 1871. It was then the scene 
 of a terrible tragedy, when six hundred of the insurgents 
 perished in the flames. A fierce conflict, lasting twelve liours, 
 had been going on between the troops and the mutineers, when 
 the latter set fire to the buildings held by them, which they 
 had saturated with petroleum, thus lighting the fire of their 
 own funeral pile. 
 
 The Hotel de Ville, built in 1628, has been one of tiie most 
 celebrated buildings of Paris, on account of its connection 
 with historical events. During the various revolutions and 
 insurrections in the city, it was the place of bloody struggles 
 and the scene of many political transactions. Its complete 
 destruction was an irreparable loss as an interesting historical 
 monument. The cost of rebuilding has been estimated at 
 twelve million francs, or two million four hundred thousand 
 dollars. It is remarkable that the Church of St. Gervais, 
 near the Hotel de Ville, should have escaped destruction 
 in the conflagration. It was erected in M-<\ and \a 
 Grecian in the exterior but Gothic in the interior ; it is 
 too small for so massive colunnis. A bridge leads to the 
 Isle of St. Louis, which contains a church of the same name
 
 230 PLEASANT MEMLRIES OF FOREIGN TRA VEL. 
 
 and the Hotel Lambert, a building once occupied by Voltaire, 
 and the place of Napoleon's conference in 1815. 
 
 Progress is made at the Exposition. The grounds about the 
 Trocad^ro are lovely ; flowers, herbage, fountains, grottos, and 
 other attractions render this part of the Exposition very in- 
 teresting. On this side of the Seine, articles from Tunis, 
 Morocco, and other African states are sold by natives dressed 
 in national costumes. They were very importunate in soliciting 
 custom, and thoroughly understood the tricks of trade. It is 
 not fair to apply the epithet " sharp " exclusively to Ameri- 
 cans, for we never knew or heard of such shrewdness and 
 cunning at home as we have found in every foreign country 
 yet visited. 
 
 The Museum of the Louvre maintains its high rank, even 
 after having seen those of other countries, and it should be 
 classed among the first in the world, as it combines so many 
 departments. Its statuary falls behind that of the Vatican ; 
 but its pictures, perhaps, rank with those of Florence. Its 
 gems and works of vertu are probably inferior to those of 
 Dresden, and its Etruscan specimens are less than those of 
 some other collections ; but the amount and variety of its 
 objects justify the high position it holds. Each gallery in 
 Europe has its distinctive features, which need to be studied 
 in order to obtain an idea of art in general. 
 
 May 20 we went to Rue de Provence to make arrangements 
 for our voyage to America, after an absence of nearly one 
 year. The thought of seeing our native land and friends 
 again is cheering to our spirits, though we do not forget 
 there is a wide ocean between us ; but we hope the hand of our 
 kind, heavenly Father, who has guided us on our journey 
 thus far, will lead us safely over this bridgeless expanse, and 
 restore us to our homes. We made our last visit to the Expo- 
 sition, and spent considerable time among the landscapes of 
 Denmark. So charming are they that we longed to see this 
 little kingdom, for it must be delightful, unless its artists have 
 highly idealized its natural scenery. We obtained our 
 tickets for Boston, U. S. A., by way of London.
 
 PARIS TO nOSTOX. 231 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 From Paris to Boston. 
 
 May 21. We left Paris this morning for the UiiiU'd States 
 by way of EngLand, over the Boulogne and Folkestone route, 
 and on arriving at the Channel embarked on board the steamer 
 Albert Edward. Taking a position on the upper deck, the 
 better to enjoy the sea view that, to us, has its fiuscinations, 
 we were exposed to a strong, cold breeze which caused the 
 boat to move up and down, producing an effect similar to a 
 swing. We enjoyed this peculiar motiou, but most of our fel- 
 low-passengers did not, apparently; for judging from their 
 looks, they seemed ready to plunge beneath the wave and end 
 their misery, while the stewardess had more patients than one 
 could attend. As we could afford no relief, we became inter- 
 ested in contemplating our surroundings : the water with its 
 gem-like green and exquisite white foam in the wake of the 
 boat, the sails of the vessels on the Channel, resembling wliite 
 tents in the distance, and the billowy waves in constant mo- 
 tion. The steamers were inferior in size and accommodations, 
 which seemed rather strange, for a line so important lui that 
 between Paris and London. Tlie route from Folkestone to 
 London is through a beautiful and highly cultivated region, 
 as most of England appears to be ; and when we arrived at the 
 railway station, we almost regretted that our journey was 
 ended, and we must attend to the disagreeable tjusk of "going 
 through the Custom House," securing porters, engjiging car- 
 riages, paying fees, — this does not mean regular faiv, — gelling 
 settled at one's lodgings, etc., and then arranging the Uthw. 
 Finally we reached our boarding-house near tlie Stmntl. 
 
 As we were to spend some time in London before cmkark-
 
 232 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 ing for America, we made arrangements for examining new 
 places or revisiting those previously seen during last j^ear. 
 At St. Paul's Cathedral, a new monument to the Duke of 
 Wellington had just been placed in one of the transepts. It 
 is of white marble and bronze, with a bronze statue of the 
 duke reclining under a canopy. The monument is adorned by 
 other figures, and is separated from the aisle by a screen of 
 the same metal ; but as a whole, it did not seem as grand as the 
 character of the celebrated warrior demanded. The size and 
 style of St. Paul's seem to require paintings and statuary, in 
 which it is deficient. The British Museum still maintains its 
 preeminence among those of the continent ; it surpasses all 
 others in ancient Greek architectural remains, including the 
 original marbles of the Parthenon and from Halicarnassus. 
 The statuary bears no comparison with that of the Vatican 
 Museum, but we imagine the Egyptian and Assyrian collec- 
 tions superior to those of other countries ; the Library con- 
 tains rare autographs, and the department of minerals is large 
 and well arranged. In whatever other respects London may 
 have changed, it is certain the weather is the same — dull, 
 rainy, cloudy, foggy. 
 
 Notwithstanding the rain, we went to St. James' Park, to 
 see the " Trooping of the Colors," whatever that may be. We 
 stood on the damp ground for awhile, saw a great crowd of 
 people, the heads of some of the infantr}'-, the heads of some 
 of the cavalry horses with their riders, and two mounted men 
 whom the people said were the Prince of Wales and the 
 Crown Prince of Prussia ; and that was all. It is the Queen's 
 birthday. May 25 ; therefore there is to be a military review, and 
 an illumination in the evening. It is proper that the sover- 
 eign of the great British Empire should be honored, for her 
 reign has been signally successful and beneficent, but the Eng- 
 lish people are enthusiastic worshippers of rank. Though 
 nobles and princes may be seen almost every day, yet when- 
 ever any of these persons appear in public, they attract as 
 much attention as a company of soldiers on parade. The rev- 
 erence for the aristocracy, with the independence of English
 
 PARIS TO nosToy. 233 
 
 character, forms one of the inconsistencies often seen in hunmn 
 nature. 
 
 The paintings of the National Giillery fall below Komu of 
 those on the continent ; we tried to discover the Iwautiia* of 
 Turner, so highly lauded by Ruskin, but failed to do so. A 
 few of his earlier pieces have more merit than his later pro- 
 ductions. He has vivid coloring, but hicks form ; many of 
 his paintings appear as if they might have been the work of a 
 madman. Of native artists, Landseer is the most imtunil. 
 There is a strange fascination about Westminster Ablxjy, 
 which frequently drew us to this venerable building. It is a 
 church, a place for the coronation and buri;d of English sov- 
 ereigns, and an abbey where monks have assembled in earlier 
 days, and where the Order of the Bath held its convocations. 
 It has answered so many purposes, and contained so many rel- 
 ics of the past, that it seems an epitome of English history. 
 How grand, beautiful, and solemn is the interior 1 As we pxss 
 from aisle to aisle, from chapel to chapel, we walk amid the 
 illustrious dead, and are taught the lesson that the King of 
 Terrors spares neither rank nor talent. Time, with his re- 
 lentless power, is slowly crumbling away the exquisite carv- 
 ing, making constant repairs necessary to prevent it from 
 becoming a ruin. 
 
 The Royal Architectural Museum comprises casts of ancient 
 architecture in the form of capitals, friezes, et^)., found in 
 different places, and also statues. They are good studies for 
 the architect and draughtsman. We repeated our visits to the 
 Museum of Practical Geology for the purpose of e.Kaminmg 
 ornamental stones, especially marbles, and to the British 
 Museum, where we saw the Crown Prince and Princess 
 of Germany, who were on a visit to England. Tins museum 
 has a large collection of antique marbles collected from Greece 
 and Asia, also from Africa. There are more and l>etter Greek 
 or Greco-Roman statues in Rome and Naples, but the an:hitert- 
 ural monuments of remote antiquity can l»est !« studied 
 in London. We were conducted over the museum by a custo- 
 dian who has charge of the Greek and Roman marbles, and
 
 234 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 were shown a specimen called marble by the workmen ; but 
 though it admitted of a high polish, it did not jippear like 
 marble. We asked whether it had ever been analyzed, when 
 he replied that each one in the museum had his special depart- 
 ment to which he was exclusively devoted, implying it was not 
 his business to know whether the stone had been analyzed or 
 not. 
 
 The English masses have far less general information than 
 those of America. Even policemen are not always acquainted 
 with localities not on their " beat," and are unable to give 
 information on subjects outside their special calling. The 
 EngUsh seem to think it is indecorous to have any knowledge 
 of their neighbors' affairs. 
 
 At the time of our visit, the three most eminent preachers 
 in London were Dean Stanley, Mr. Spurgeon, and Dr. Parker, 
 all of whom we heard. The first two have since died, but the 
 last still survives. They all drew immense houses, even to 
 overflowing, and it was our privilege to hear these distinguished 
 clergymen in their own pulpits. 
 
 June 3 we left London for Liverpool, where we were to 
 embark for America. Our route took us through the centre of 
 England, which is literally a garden, if not Eden, where every 
 square foot of land appears to be brought to the highest state 
 of cultivation. Verdant fields, cosy farmhouses, trim hedges, 
 and busy manufacturing towns scattered along the way, 
 indicated the thrift and industry of the rural population. In 
 town and country are seen evidences of the wealth and power 
 of this great nation ; but aside from these considerations, there 
 is a poetical charm connected with its scenery, so often cele- 
 brated in romance and in verse. It is not grand except in few 
 localities, but exquisitely beautiful, with the lively green fields, 
 delightful groves, clusters of trees, well-tilled farms, interesting 
 hedge rows, neat cottages, and the quietness that reigns every- 
 where. One can imagine how delightful a journey from London 
 to Liverpool must have been at this season of the year. The 
 traveller through this region is not only impressed with its 
 natural aspects, but also by its ceaseless activity in the manu-
 
 PAIilS TO nOSTOX. 23 
 
 o 
 
 factming towns, indicated Ly tlie donse colmnnH ot Kinoke 
 perpetually ascending like those rising from u volcano. The 
 London fogs, like a curtain of vupor, enfolding one in ii very 
 small circle, are found in other places. The city of Liverp<Mjl 
 was enveloped in fog, so that objccU a few rodn off weie indis- 
 tinct, while the sun appeared to be struggling for recognition 
 by the inhabitants of earth. 
 
 On arriving at our place of destination, wo proceeded to the 
 hotel opposite St. George's Hall, the Picture Ciallery, and tlio 
 Museum. The hall is one of the finest buildiiigs in Liver|K>ol, 
 and. is constructed in the Corinthian style, with sixteen lluled 
 columns on the side opposite the hotel, while the south end luus 
 a double row of columiis supporting a pediment decomted wiili 
 reliefs. The Picture Gallery contains some good jiaintings, and 
 has one room appropriated to the works of Turner, which we 
 preferred to those by this artist in the National Gallery of 
 London. One large painting in this collection represents the 
 last moments of Charles IL in Whitehall. The great number 
 of courtiers of both sexes betray in their looks, dress, and 
 amusements the heartlessness of a dissolute court. One ia 
 holding a watch in his hand, as if impatient for tlie fatal 
 moment to come. Another is lounging in a manner that 
 indicates weariness, and a third is amusing himself willi a lajt- 
 dog. Even the ladies of the court express no signs of genuine 
 grief, although one is holding a handkerchief to lier face as an 
 expression of sorrow, but at the same time is slyly watching the 
 movements of the others. The door of the nionaivh's aiart- 
 ment is partly open, disclosing the presence of an attendant. 
 The painting is a commentary upon the frivolous, dissolute 
 manners of the court of Charles IL Another painting repre- 
 sents Cromwell refusing the crown of Great liritain when 
 offered to him. He is sitting alone in deep thought, while h'xa 
 countenance reveals the struggle in his mind whether to 
 accept or reject the gift. 
 
 The Museum contains a very large and fine collection 
 of stuffed birds, probably more extensive than the one in the 
 British Museum, besides beetles, butterflies, corals, sheila and
 
 236 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 marine animals, minerals, fossils, porcelains, etc., with marbles 
 from Numidia, taken from the quarries lately rediscovered, and 
 which resembled giallo antico. 
 
 June 4, a rainy, foggy, disagreeable day. "Nasty" the 
 English would call it, yet we paid a visit to St. George's Hall. 
 The highly polished columns of the interior, composed of red 
 granite with bases of gray granite, are very beautiful, while 
 green Galway serpentine and a stone resembling English 
 alabaster are used in the decoration of the hall. The organ 
 has eight thousand pipes and one hundred and eight stops. 
 
 June 5. Morning foggy and dark, but later in the day 
 there were some indications that the sun was still in the 
 heavens. We gave most of the time to the Museum, examin- 
 ing the lower order of animals, beginning with protozoans, and 
 ending with ants and bees. The Museum includes a great variety 
 of objects, but no department equals that of stuffed birds. 
 There is a collection of the miniatures of the Bonaparte family, 
 and remarkably fine looking people they are. 
 
 Marine animals and quadrupeds occupy considerable space ; 
 and among the visitors were many seamen, showing their inter- 
 est in this department of natural history. Such collections are 
 valuable schools of object teaching, while painting and sculpt- 
 ure refine the taste and promote a love of the beautiful. 
 
 The English have a remarkable facility of classifying and 
 making everything plain, so that one hardly needs to consult a 
 catalogue when examining their cabinets. The names of 
 species, genera, character, and history of specimens are given 
 for the benefit of the visitor, and in their art collections the 
 names of the subject and the artist are nearly always attached 
 to their works. 
 
 June 6 we bade adieu to England and embarked on the 
 British steamer Marathon, of the Cunard Line, for the United 
 States ; and after getting settled in our stateroom, we had the 
 time and inclination to review our year's travel in foreign 
 lands. Our journey had been, on the whole, very pleasant 
 and instructive, with no accidents of a serious character and 
 few disagreeable experiences. A brief residence in any place
 
 PARIS TO BOSTON. 237 
 
 affords only a partial acquaiutaiice with the people, arid linit 
 impressions are sometimes erroneous; but at the Banie time, 
 some profitable lessons may be learned. 
 
 England is a great, powerful, and prosperous country, includ- 
 ing her foreign territory, east and west; and tliough the nutives 
 have sterling qualities, they are often concealed under h cold, 
 not to say repulsive, exterior ; they maintain a haughty reserve, 
 but the better classes are exceedingly well bred. They are grand 
 in their virtues, and perhaps tlieir faults are equally couMpicu- 
 ous ; but civilization owes much to these aggressive people. 
 The Germans, especially the men, are sometimes wanting in 
 refinement, and offend by a lack of proper reganl for tlie feel- 
 ings of others, but they command respect for intelligence, 
 thrift, and progressive tendencies. They are the best educated 
 nation in Europe. The French are witty, vivacious, and Uilka- 
 tive ; but we do not think they are the most polite nation, jls 
 they have sometimes been called. They are good humored and 
 obliging to strangers, patient in answering questions, as a rule, 
 but there are Frenchmen who are sometimes rude in their 
 treatment of foreigners. They have had a strange and, in 
 some respects, a tragical history, which may or may not have 
 won for themselves the name of being tickle ; but in one attri 
 bute, that is in taste, they excel all other nations. 
 
 The Swiss deserve the respect and sympathy of the world, 
 for their industry and perseverance in gaining a livelihood 
 from their rocky mountains, hardships which they prefer to 
 the trial of leaving their native land, as the people of many 
 other countries do. 
 
 Italy, of all the countries visited, possesses the greatest inter- 
 est, both for its ancient history and relics, and on account of 
 the struggles and character of its native population. We found 
 the Italians civil, patient, and good uatured, even the lower 
 classes, who always seemed grateful for any gift however small. 
 
 June 7 the Marathon reached Queenstown, where it took 
 on board more passengers, largely Irish emigranU. The 
 weather was not propitious ; but a sea voyage was not a novelty 
 to us. How, then, could we best improve our time until we
 
 238 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 should reach home ? At first the weather was threatening, but 
 in spite of the rain we persisted in remaining on deck most of 
 the time. The ocean is a boundless expanse of a beautiful 
 blue, while there was not a sail in sight. How solitary was our 
 condition ! Our world consisted of a few planks and some doz- 
 ens of human beings ; but what were we compared to the great 
 globe, or our freight of human beings to the myriads of living 
 creatures in the waters beneath us ? There is so little variety 
 at sea, that one must amuse himself by Avatching the weather 
 prognostics, the parts of the ship, and the sailors, especially 
 when " taking log." One would suppose it an arduous task, 
 since it requires so many hands to take in the cable ; but our 
 seamen did not appear to have a very hard time. We saw one 
 or more whales, or only a part of their tails and heads, which 
 were so far apart that their owners must have been monsters 
 indeed. There were several children on board who were begin- 
 ning to feel the restraints of their situation, and were not in the 
 best humor. The high waves caused our ship to toss and pitch 
 a good deal, so that we were rocked in our berths, sometimes 
 sideways, and sometimes lengthwise, while the act of dressing 
 was a difficult and ridiculous feat. The time passed in sleep- 
 ing, eating, and listlessly gazing over the water, with an occa- 
 sional tete-a-tete with an idle passenger ; every one seems 
 occupied in doing nothing. An outward passage is far more 
 interesting, not only for its novelty, but also for the glowing 
 anticipations regarding new places and new objects ; but on a 
 homeward voyage, there is nothing new to expect, and the 
 only pleasure is the hope of meeting friends from whom one 
 has been long separated. 
 
 How monotonous must be a sailor's life ! No papers, no tele- 
 graph, no lectures, no intercourse with the rest of the world 
 for long periods. How narrow the sphere of thought and action 
 during the voyage ! but as a compensation, he is brought event- 
 ually in contact with other nations, and has an opportunity of 
 seeing other lands. 
 
 On a glorious evening the departing rays of the sun from 
 behind a cloud cast their shadow upon the waters, imparting to
 
 PARIS TO BOSTON. 239 
 
 it a rich, bright-red, of lustrous hue, sueli aM in ntrcly sfcij on 
 land. We were now approaching the " Hanks." 
 
 June 15, towards evening, we came into a fog so denso that 
 we could hardl}' discern tlie bow or tlio stern of the sliip. 'Hie 
 captain set a double watch, and he himself had Ihjuu on iluck 
 since one o'clock in the morning, so as to guard ag-.iiusl jlangcr. 
 In the evening the sailors gave an entertainment to the iKWHen- 
 gers, the most interesting part being the singing and playing 
 upon the violin. They sang several songs, and the sweet 
 hymn " The Beautiful River." The next morning tlie engines 
 of the Marathon suddenly stopped, when all on lx>ard were on 
 the alert to learn the cause. The pivssengers rushed on deck 
 and found several of the officers and sailors watching two buoyH 
 of whose existence they were ignorant. Various conjectureH 
 were offered; some thought we had run foul of a wreck; others, 
 that we had lost our bearings and gone too far north. Sound- 
 incTs were made, and it was proved that we were in sixty fath- 
 oms of water. Then it was proposed to seud a boat to examine 
 the buoys ; but as we were in deep waters, we must be all right 
 and the buoys all wrong. Finally, it was ascerUined that they 
 had been placed there by the Submarine Telegnii>h Company, 
 and floated since the Marathon made her hust trip, hence were 
 not known to the officers of the ship. 
 
 At two o'clock A. M., June 17, a pilot was Uken on board, 
 and early in the morning we went on deck to catch the first 
 glimpse of land, when the experienced eye of an «.ld sailor 
 caught sight of the sandy beach of Cape Cod. We had l)een 
 furnished with blank papers from the Custom House to fill out 
 and sign, and were momentarily expecting the government offi- 
 cials on board to administer the oath. At the same time, a 
 quarantine officer appeared to ascertain wliether our ship had 
 brought any dangerous diseases ; but, fortunately, neither chol- 
 era nor any other dreaded epidemic was detected, and we were 
 allowed to enter the port of Boston, where we met our friendn 
 waiting for us. The inspection of our bagg-age caused us less 
 delay than we had expected, while the officer performing that 
 duty was very considerate and gontlemaidy, and we were smm
 
 240 PLEASANT MEMORIES OF FOREIGN TRAVEL. 
 
 placed in a carriage, with all our baggage, for our home in an 
 adjacent city, after a year's interesting and instructive travel. 
 During that time we were taught many important lessons ; 
 namely, a deeper love for our own native land and its cher- 
 ished institutions, a greater respect for other nations and 
 admiration for their achievements in art, and, though a com- 
 monplace observation, that human nature, with its excellences 
 and defects, is much the same the world over. In order to 
 receive the greatest advantages by travel, the tourist should 
 have at least some general knowledge of literature in all its 
 departments, of art in its various branches, and of the history 
 of the different nations, especially those whose country he 
 intends to visit ; neither must he imagine that everything can 
 be seen during a short trip, perhaps of a few weeks, though a 
 brief visit is better than none.
 
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