fAtxtcs inwT irv-'' "7. ^. ^JO-^ . ^\^EUNIVER5'/A ^lOSANCElfj> o ^ > .^Qf ij >-JI t 5 5-5 ■^/^aaAiNn^wv^ ^6'AavaaiH^ ^UIBRARYQc ^;jNtllBRARY6?/^ ^\\£ UNIVERS//) ^d/OJIlVDJO"^ ^^0JnV3-JO^ '^^il]ONVSO^=<^ ''^lll ^OFCALIF0% ^OF-CAIIFO% ^(?Aavaaii-# ^WEUNIVERi-//. ' ■ ■! Jn, 'Jr <0 ■^nm^i-m^^ '^^mK\\ A\^EUN1VER% ^vS^VOSANCEl/jv. <^\mK\ iWl |(T>r-l |1 ^Of c- MavaaiH >- ^■J. \\i 111 I' rn ; ■, , .incAsirci -• o "5, >- 'OUj/\iiiiiur-v' A STORY Jiff on tl)f |stj)mii$. BY JOSEPH W. FA BENS. * AVliLilir-r ^^r iKV m ilie care or the fi!..--!. Ouraleeji MI soft on the hnrdfst bc-d: \Vh«-lher w.- coiKhcd in our roin;li cupof". On Ilie rougiirr plank of our (,'litling btiat. Or filrotch'-d on the beach, or our Kad(ll«:s spread A* a pillow bencalh the resliiic lirai!, Frevh wc woHc upon tliv morrt^w. We Were of all loncues and rn-wln ; tJoinr *(Tc thohc who rounfed i.eadi*, Kome of nineque, and some of churcii. And some, or I miB'say, of neither ; Wt through ih« wide world might yc uparrh. Kor find a moilier crew, nor blitlicr." Si'gt of Cortntk, NEW YORK : GEORGE P. PUTNAM & Co., 10 PARK PLACE. M D C C C L I 1 1 . 6 5037 Enterkd, nccordiiig to Act of Congress, iu the year 1852, by O , r . PUTNAM & Co., in the Clcik'a OiTicG of llie District Conn fur tlio SoullitTii District oi New Yorli. R..CH A toft K»b,'Ptiater*anU &trt-cotyper, 6a Veiei/ Street. 5^^ Slmo0 11 CarniiiiE, fei)., / AMKKICAN lUN>r!, AT I'AXA.MA, For his galiaut conduct at the Battle of Bukna Vista, and the efficient services rendered his Country and tho cause of hunaanity in assisting to maintain the Laws at Panama ■when an infuriated mob threatened to disturb the jjublic peace and safety, and destroy tlic friendly relations existing between our Government and the Republic of New Grenada, NOT LESS THAN AS A TOKEN' OF BROrilEHLY AFFIX'TION AND REGARD, Is icltsp tttfulls Jnatribjh. CONTENTS CHAPTER I. Life in Dishabille, Yale ftiul Parkins, - A Life Sa\fd, - . - Monsieur Cra[iol'.'t, Preparations for a Start, En Route, A Tramp in the Woods, - After Dinner, - The Bottle Manuscript, - Tlje Padre, - Developments, CHAPTER U. CHAFPER II r. CHAPTER IV. CHAPTER V. CHAITER VI. CHAPTER VII. CHAPTER Vin. CHAPTER IX. CHAPTER X. CHAPTER XI. Page 15 2V 4u 51 lOf. lis VI coy TENTS. Pagt CHAPTKR XII. Ohagres River, - - 125 CHAPTER XIII. Dos Hermanas, - - - - - ■• - - - 133 CHAPTKR XIV. A Xight on the Rivor, - . - - - - - 141 CHAPTER XV. AVl:;it a ring forth, ------- 154 CHAPTER XVI. Ati Official Disclosure, 173 CHAPTER XVII. S'-t'ne at Palcnquilla, 184 CHAPTER XVIII. Oorgona, - - - - -199 PREFACE. " By seizing the Isthmus of Darien," said Sir Walter Raleigh, "you will wrest the keys of the world from Spain." The aspira- tion of the days of Elizabeth has become the fact of our own. : Decrcpid old Spain did indeed long since loosen its palsied grasp of this land of wealth and promise ; but it was not until Anglo- Saxon enterprise strode over it, that the world saw upon its front the nascent lineaments of a great empire. The wonderful change which has been and is yet to be wrought upon the surface and in the character of the people of this country, will one day form a very interesting chapter in the history of adventurous enterprise. For the present, anything which tends to shed light, however faint, upon a point to which so many eyes are turned in hope and admiration, the writer conceives will not be without its value. It is not, nevertheless, pretended that the following pages are fraught with any special brilliancy — a modest disclaimer which the reader will perchance think wholly uncalled for under the circumstances — made up of disjointed sketches, drawn roughly enough with sucji materials as were at hand during rude voyaging, aiming not at any depth of coloring or sentiment, the book will doubtless remind some of those canvas daubings, termed Pano- ramas, wherein much is seen for a small amount ; but which, it is to be hoped, if lacking in those grand touches which only a master can produce, do yet serve in their way to convey to the hurried gazer a sort of floating idea of the beauty or richness of the real scene. And, furthermore, so trivial are the incidents, so superficial the view of character and life herein displayed — necessarily so where people live only as it were en passaii/, where the depth and earnestness of home-life is entirely wanting — that a much readier pen might well falter in its attempt to give any interest to scenes 80 barren of material. A land, too, " Where ihe rose iinver blooms "n foir woman's wan cheek ;" viii PREFACE. about which cluster in the minds of luanj' the most melancholy associations : which travellers approach with dread, and look back upon with trembling ; has ratlior too strong " a scent of mortality" about it to awaken any great warmth of enthusiasm or poetic fervor in its description — " For dangers uncounted are clustering there, The pestilence stalks uncontrolled ; Strange poisons are borne on the soft languid air. And lurk in each leafs fragrant fold." But the scenes portrayed in the ensuing pages (and this is the only point upon which the author relies in palliation of his offence) belong now mostly to the past. A new leaf in the character of this portion of the popular route to California has been opened : where but recently the slow boat toiled up against the' swift current of the river, or the languid mule dragged his weary feet over the rough mountain passes, the iron horse snorts defiantly as he rushes on his imdeviating course. Yet a few short years and what is herein written will perchance be read merely as a pleasant fiction. Perchance, too (and should this ever prove to be the case, the writer feels that it will not have been wholly in vain " He wore his sruidal-shoon and scallop-shell"), on some far future rainy day, some child of a coming generation, navigating wearily through his fathers lumber-garret in quest of strange adventures, shall stnuible upon a copy of this work whicli the unappreciative trunk-makers have passed by, and wliile poring over its pages shall believe with childish credulity that all which he finds therein recorded really happened ; and then reviewing in his little mind the many blessings which took their rise in golden Califoniin, and like a generous river made the countries fertile through which they rolled, shall feel a glow of admiration and gratitude towards those brave pioneers who, amid so much hard- ship and self-denial, founded the great Empire of the West. It may be proper to add here, as nn explanatory note, that the succeeding pages, though not necessarily connected with or hinging upon any preceding ones, were nevertheless originally composed as a kind of sequel to a work entitled "The Camkt. Hunt." Salem (Mass.), Dec. I, 1852. l^ife on t|c |st|nnts. CHAPTER I. LIFE IN DISHABILLE. ¥E saw Chagres under peculiar circumstances. At the time of our arrival there the California fever had reached its extreme height, but was still raging with unabated fury. Every day some steamer or sailing craft from our Atlantic cities, and occasionally one of the latter class from some French or English port, would enter and disgorge its mass of eager life upon the sandy point, and hurry back again for a fresh cargo. I doubt if ever slave ships, in the palmiest days of that hellish traflBc, were crowded to the extent of some of the Chagres packets during this period of the C;difornia immigration. It was a strange and exciting scene to look upon. Fre- quently after coffee in the morning I used to stroll down to the point, and watching my chance for a seat upon the piazza of the Empire City Hotel, would light my cigar, and gaze for hours unsated upon that wonderful kaleidoscope of human life. No romance that I ever read possessed for me 1* 10 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. half the interest of that ever-changing scene. In the forms ijefore and around nie, all nations, ages, and conditions of life were represented, and in such grotesque, and, for the most part, uncouth costumes ! Seeing them thus luuklled toge- ther, the rude and the gentle, the young and ruddy, and jnany another decrcpid with age, the man of robust health and the tottering invalid, " the tender and delicate woman" and the boisterous ruffian of the lowest class, the virtuous and the vicious, of all grades and conditions, meeting for once in life upon a common ground, about to take from thence a common departure with the same physical end in view — alike in that one thing, but so ditteront in all else — seeing all this, I felt sometimes a chilly questioning at heart as to whither this state of things was tending. There seemed to be a general breaking up of the accustomed forms of life, a disappearance of old land-marks ; and I found my- self inwardly asking, if in this lack of the sanctities of home, the quiet intercourse of friends, and all that is tranquillizing and ennobling in literature, science, and art, thei'e was no danger that somehow in this rude and unavoidable inter- mingling of the purest and vilest, characters might become confounded, and the soul, wanting its accustomed food, lose something of its better nature, and allow " climbing impurity to stain the empyrean." The depressing state of the atmo- sphere, and the great avalanches of clouds that every now and then came rolling down the hill sides, hiding the green slopes, and deluging everything to the core, doubtless con- tributed to this mood of mind. ]3ut such grave questions seldom troubled me long — how could they — in Chagres ? There was also a comic side to the picture. The unac- countable style in which all were permitted to dress totally prevented a recognition of a person's grade, and gave rise to some misunderstandings ; a retired judge might be accosted LIFE IN DISHABILLE. 11 as a boatman, aud au ex-Governor from the States was equally subjected to be taken for a porter. People seemed in some cases as much sui'prised at finding themselves there as at anything else ; and cast doubtful glances at the steam- ships outside, wallowing and rolling in the swell, hardly will- ing to acknowledge to themselves, that they were the same craft that looked so gallant and' inviting at their piers in New York. ' Occasionally there were some droll rencontres, when one would see the countenance of a friend emerge from beneath a coarse black and white Chagres sombrero, or above the glowing folds of a red baize shirt. " Hilloa," was the general salutation, " you here ?" whfch was ordinarily answered by a similar interrogatory more emphatically uttered, " you here ?" What else indeed could be said under the circumstances ? Mild looking men, inoffensive quiet people by nature, were straying upon the beach in the character of brigands, with a belt or sash about their waist, ■ stuck full of pistols and bowie knives, on the qui vive for those attacks which had been predicted by their quondam neighbors ; and exemplary young and middle-aged men, hmv rying to and fro on all sides, showed plainly by their gait and gestures that they had " con-ected the water of Chagres river" much too freely. Here would be a party of four or five, all talking to the same " native" in as many tongues, and the said native, nowise abashed at not being the proficient in languages which he was taken for, putting all five otF quietly with his invariable " poco tiempo ;" and there would be a foreign set, French doubtless, seated in the stern sheets of their " dug-out," just leaving to go up river, cosily eating sardines and tossing off their bumpers of claret to the inspiring notes of a polka, which one of the party was performing on a brass hoin. There are always some torpid- livered people in every crowd, as a kind of ballast to the 12 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. spirits of the whole. On this particular occasion one of these fellows observed, that " the music would be pretty well out of that mounseer before he got to Gatoun," which ano- ther followed up by saying that " he reckoned that chap's horn could be bought cheap next morning;" whereupon a very bad-looking man clinched the whole matter by observing with an oath that " that fellow would dance over his grandmother's grave." It was a great place for the study of character. On step- ■7 ping ashore at Chagres men instinctively shook off the crust of conventionality, and came out in projrrid persona. I have heard that a ship brings out a man's true character, and the .same is also affirmed of a prison. I think, however, that in our time the palm must be ceded to Chagres. There was in "Tthis place such au exquisite refinement of bad lodgings and worse fare, such an affluence of buggy cots, and such a poverty of wholesome bed-clothing, such filth on the levee and the beach, and such a sickening stench in the air — oh, but it was a tine place to bring out the salient points of a man's character ! To be jolly under such circumstances, one would think would require more than the philosophy of even Mark Tapley. And yet there were jolly folks at Chagres — aye, even among the residents ; men who did not live, but clung as it were desperately to the very tail-end of existence ; there were some cheerful, if not happy, standing by their post as nobly as any warrior of old, or any Casablanca in the annals of song. And these same gold-seekere, in their outre guise, with all their absurd misconceptions, their petty fault-findings, and their fretful impatience, had about them, on the whole, an air of troubled grandeur that was really heart-touching. "What- ever might have been their respective aims, hopes, or pros- pects, they were all wanderers on the earth. They all had LIFE IN DISHABILLE. 13 the seal of inquietude set upon their faces, of which the querulous Childe says, " This makes the madmen, who have made men mad By their contagion." Whatever might have been their respective troubles or diseases, they were all drinking the same bitter cup of medi- cine. Some were there to gratify a morbid restlessness of body, some urged on by a hungering of the soul for change amid excitement which " But once kindled, quenchless evermore, Preys upon high adventure, nor can tire Of auglit but rest, a fever at the core Fatal to him who bears, to all who ever bore." Others had left home blind to the rosy smiles of children, and steeled against the passionate sobs of loving wives, resolved to be back, if there was any faith to be put in man's best endeavors; any just God in the high heavens' to drive for ever the wolf from the fold of the tender objects of their love : and others still had come hither from a harder neces- sity, because they were a burden in their own homes, and would have gone anywhere rather than longer have met glances so changed in those whom they still loved. And yet another and more melancholy class than any of these, because more incomprehensible, were those w^ho sought here a refuge from themselves, from their own wicked thoughts, content to spend their days amidst all physical hardships, " to sleep amidst infection," to die rather than go back to the solitary companionship of their own*souls. Over and above everything else one great feeling precl^mi- nated in the minds of men at Chagres, an impatience to be away. People no sooner landed on the beach than they U LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. were bustling round to be olt" again. Tliey ail seemed to y r/dread that one moment of too long delay, when the malaria ' \ poison should enter their blood, and laugh defiantly at the I cunningest remedies. Yet this very feeling, so antagonistic to kindliness and courtesy, to the credit of our r.ature be it said, ditiused a sentiment of brotherhood throughout this incongruous mass. Men gazed shudderingly at the too sig- nificant hillocks everywliere visible, and looked into each other's faces, saying pitifully, "and i/ou may be the next;" adding with an inward tremoi-, " or I — and may need your assistance in the last offices to my humanity." "But some are dead, and sonic are gone, ' And some are scattered and alone ; * * * -X- * And some are in a far countree. And some all restlessly at home ; But never more, oh, never we Shall meet to revel and to roam." These lines, from the " Siege of Corinth," immediately succeeding those which I have chosen as a motto for this work, convey to my mind so truthful an idea of the proba- ble final disposition of this caravan of liuman beings, that I have no inclination to enter into a description of their more common-place characteristics. IIow could I ever hope, by so doing, to give any accurate idea of the wonderful pano- rama to which I have but alluded ? It will be better and more becoming in me to proceed at once with my plain, matter-of-fact narrative, leaving analysis and generalizations to more skilful pens. Amid this chaos of moral life, there were, nevertheless, some drifting fragments of a better state of things occasion- ally to be discovered, and these won the eye of the observer as much by their rarity as by their own inherent beauty. VALE ASD PARKINS. Id CHAPTER 11. VALE AND PARKINS. ONE morning I was sitting at my nsual place of resort on the piazza of the Emj)ire City Hotel. It was rather a livelier day than ordinary — that is, I mean livelier on shore, for there was a fresh northerly wind blowing, which so tore up the surface of the sea and caused it to break so furiously upon the bar and beach, that the boatmen, in spite of their restless and daring spirit of activity, had not deemed it prudent to venture out. There was a rumor current on the point that one boat had started for the steamer Georgia early in the morning, and been capsized in the breakers off the second point beyond San Lorenzo, and that all on board had per- ished. This might have been true or not, but no one cared to run any risk in investigating the matter ; the lost, who- ever they were, would never be missed in Chagres, and as" for the suddenness of their departure, why, it was not thought of, while so many were dying just as suddenly in our very midst. There were three steamers outside, waiting passengers ; and the large number collected to embark, and the momentary arrivals of boats down the river with passengers also home- ward bound, gave a brisk aspect to the social features of life on shore. There were, besides, not a few unfortunate indi- viduals, who had arrived at Chagres by these same steamers, and who, from various reasons, had not yet got away, on 16 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. their journey across tlie Isthiuus. These two classes of people possessed great interest for each other,. for while the .outward bound had much to ask of the returned Cahfornians, and hung upon their words as if their future life were being shaped by them, and even looked with a kind of religious awe upon their mud-soiled garments, and haggard, toil-worn faces, these latter, in turn, regarded their questioners with looks of mingled pity, wonder, and contempt. It seemed so strange to them that men having good clothes to wear, ruddy complexions, and homes where they might have stayed, were hurrying impatiently to get a sip of that same cup of hardship and self-denial which they had thought to have al- most drained to the dregs. They had forgotten what brought them out in a similar manner, it was so long ago, and so many more recent and doubtless more palpable troubles had been theirs. But the " dust " of these same returning gold- hunters was a greater argument in favor of taking their jjast course, than anything they could adduce to offset it, because, in the minds of the outward-bound, as one of them convi- vially observed, it went right home to the part affected, like champagne after sea-sickness. It was a lively day, and yet it would not have been lively anywhere but in Chagres ; and even there, there was a dreariness, a baldness, and discomfort about its livehn ess that modified it very much. There was less rain than usual that morning, but still enough to keep everything in a very unde- sirable state of dampness. In walking in from our camp, I had been saturated sufficiently to take the chivalry pretty well out of any man. But I had afterwards crossed to the native side of the town, to purchase some eggs and chickens for ourselves, and corn for the camels ; and seeing everybody else in the like situation, had come to take it, as indeed I did cvervthing: at that time, as a matter of course. VALE AND PARKINS. Il As the day progressed, the gale increased. From where I sat, there was a fine view of the sea and beach ; hut if the reader should now visit Chagres, he would find a great change in this part of the town : many new buildings have been erected between where the Empire City Hotel -- tlien stood and the sea, and the view from its piazza extends now but to the opposite side of the street. At this time, however, I could see as far as our camel encampment on the left, with a high range of hills shutting in the view beyond, the long beach, the landing point in front, and the sea, stretching to the horizon, bounded on the right by the hills and fort of San Lorenzo, and terminating in a gentle slope leading to the native town, between which and my point of survey flowed the Chagres river. I shall not soon foi'get bow gradually but steadily the wind kept rising that day, and how the great sea heaved and thundered beneath the touchings of its mighty hand ; how the rough, hairy breakers doubled and redoubled in size and fury, lashing the resounding shore with their white and out-spread arms, and how men came down to gaze at them as at a bristling army that hemmed them in from all they loved, and clasped eacb other's hands convulsively, glad to know that there were others in the world as insig- nificant and lonesome as themselves. The steamships mj^ the bay rolled till j'ou could see their decks as plainly as if you were on board ; and boats were torn from their fastenings, carried out by the retreating waves, and again whirled up high and dry upon the beach. There were some old wrecks along the shore, through whose worm- eaten decrepit timbers the sea caine rushing with a perfect howl, writhing in and out of portholes and scuppers in long tortuous lines like angry serpents ; and men gazed likewise on these black, sepulchral wrecks, and shuddered 18 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. again, and looked back beseechingly to the merciless ocean, and their quiet homes seemed further off than ever. The bluff where the fort stood, Avas au especial mark for the sea ; and its dark, slimy rocks, as they emerged from eacli strug- gle with the tempestuous waves, looked each time blacker and more defiant. But on the bar, what a perfect madness of waters ! There was something awful about it — as if all the many bones which the sea had ever stolen from the warm, green earth were moving in their deep beds, and had contributed something to its ghastly whiteness. I was smoking and looking about me — now in contem- plation of the turbulent scene, now in studying the equally turbulent forms of humanity grouped around, when a man, somewhat remarkable in all the crowd, presented himself before me. He was a tall, long-limbed, loose-made man, with a large head, and a profusion of sandy hair and beard. He was attired in a suit of pepper-and-salt doeskin, with a wash-leather money-belt strapped outside about his waist, and ornamented with a pair of revolvers. He wore a light felt hat, with a broad brim, similar to those extensively used in California. But he was no returning gold-seeker. It was easy enough to see that, in the newness of his garments, the exposure of his money-belt, the ominous presence of his pistols, and particularly in the fresh, ruddy style of his countenance. He had a remarkable face. It was large, and each feature had its share ; and his beard, which looked, indeed, more like a mane than a beard — the- lion's part. There was nothing else about him that resem- bled a lion very much, except his name, which I afterwards found out was Sampson — Sampson Vale. He looked complacent, voluble, good-natured, fickle-minded, easy to take as well as give an affront, a lover of a certain kind of etiquette nevertheless, and, on the whole, rather addicted to the milkiness of human nature. Such, at all events, was, VALi: AND PAfiKINS. 10 as nearly as 1 can recollect, my lirst impression of the man. There happened to be a chair vacant at my side, which he very coolly settled into, and, laying his right hand upon my left knee, looked mo full in the face, and inquired if I belonged to the camel party. I rephed in the affirmative. "Do you know, sir," continued he, raising his hand from my knee, and stroking his beard therewith, at the same time smacking his lips as if in internal relish of the sentiment he was about to utter, " do you know, sir, that T have a good opinion of that enterprise ?" I replied, that never having had the pleasure of seeing or hearing of him before, I was really not aware of it. " It is nevertheless a fact," continued he. " As our acquaintance is of short duration, I suppose that it will be necessary for nae to inform you that I was educated as a blacksmith" — " Are you the learned blacksmith ?" inquired I, interrupt- ing him. " Why, not exactly," said he, " the fact is, I am a black- smith by profession — but, like many people in thi^ world, I don't always put my profession into practice." Here he stopped, seeming to have lost the thread of his discourse, and smacked his hps for some moments with infi- nite relish. " Since leaving my trade," resumed he, when he came to himself, " I have been into a little of everything, and ought to know something about the world." " Ought, indeed," observed a small-sized man standing by his side, whom I had not before observed ; " but you never will, for you'll never stick to any one thing long enough to get more than a smattering of it." "Solomon Parkins," said the sandy-haired man, rising to 20 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS.^ Lis extreme height, and looking clown pitifully on the shorter individual at his side, at the same time stroking liis beard and smacking his lips with an appearance of deep-seated self satisfaction, " are you aware, sir, that in attempting to injui-e me in the estimation of the world, you are rendering yourself supremely ridiculous ?" " See here, old Quanto," retorted this modern Solomon, " nobody is deceived by that affectation of superiority on your part. So, in future, when you speak to me, please to lay aside that fatherly style, and recollect that the firm of Vale and Parkins is dissolved, and that the junior partner is equal to the senior any day 1" " Poor Parkins," observed Vale, in a tone of well feigned commiseration ; he then whispered in my ear, " but you will please to excuse tliis in him ; for the poor fellow is a little — a little — you understand — wandering like in tis wits." I saw that I had " struck a vein," as the Californians say, and took a more minute survey of my new acquaintances. The first, I now remarked, in addition to wdaat I had already observed, had a rapid restless manner of glancing about him, as if he took in everything there was to be seen, and seized at once upon its more palpable features. There was no repose in his countenance to indicate that he was weighing in his mind the intrinsic worth or uses of what his eyes saw, much less that he was suggesting to himself any possible dark side to the picture. His coiiipanion, for companions they were, and of long standing, I saw at a glance was run in quite a different mould. Although he probably had nothing of the old Solomon about him but his name, yet it was very evident that he was provided with a con for every 2^)'o of his former business associate. He was attired in a similar manner to his partner, even to the pistols and felt hat, from wliich fact it was fair to suppose at first sight that he could VAT^E AND I'ARKINS. 21 not help entertaining a kind of respect tur iiis opinions, which nevertheless troubled him ns :i weakness ie[»udiated by his better judgment. As I afterwards found out, these men liad bet-u in business together as blacksmiths some years previous it» a town in Maine, that the former liad been the active manager and financier of the firm, and that in consequence of his specula- tive tendencies and absurd habits, complete ruin had gradually overtaken them, in the words of Parkins, '' of course." That they had then dissolved their business con- nexion, and since then, Mr. Parkins had been adrift on the world, his naturally gloomy disposition seeing so many obstacles in every new adventure which presented itself, as to discourage him from entering upon it altogether; while Mr. Vale, on the other hand, with his buoyant character and addiction to the speculative, had dipped into a hundred different enterprises, but ahvays with the same unsatisfactory result. And yet although Parkins lost no opportunity of " showing up Vale," as he expressed it, and never ceased to reproach him as tlie cause of all his misfortunes, yet having been once within his influence, he had found it impossible to withdraw himself; and so followed him in all his mad or visionary speculations, as a kind of unofficial, junior partner, living in an atmosphere of sombre retrospections, and drawing- sustenance from a source which must have sadly affected his digestion. If Vale had been a man of thoughtful, brooding temperament, he would have looked upon Parkins as his evil genius, destined ever more to haunt him, a gloomy shadow always eating into liis life's sunshine ; but as it was, be regarded him merely as an unpleasant mosquito, or blue- bottle, buzzing about, and occasionally butting against the polished surface of his character — a troublesome little object to be sure, but one that could easily be brushed away. 22 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. We were now joined by a third party, a man equally tall with Vale, but thick-set, hard-featured, and with black hair and beard. He might have been a Califoruian or anything else that savored of the desperate. He was a bad-looking man. " How about he the snake ?" inquired he of Vale. " Oh, all right," answered Sampson. " I left him safe in his basket, but I am a little in this way about the snake business, — that is, I am in this way between the snake and the camel business." Here Mr. Vale held out his right arm, and placing the palm of his hand j^erpendicularly in the air, moved it regularly from right to left, and vice versa, intend- ing to hint thereby that he was in a state of indecision on the subject, or rocking gently between the two. " I'll satisfy you on the matter," said the man. " That won't require much," observed Parkins, with a half sneer, " but what are those objects floating in the river and drifting towards the bar ? They look to me like human bodies." " Carcasses !" observed the bad-looking fellow brutally. *' They're not worth saving. If they had dust in their belts they wouldn't float. But come, it blows too much of a snorter here, let us go round to the Irving and look after the snake. Drink anything ?" I declined the invitation at once, from an unwillingness to drink with such a wicked-looking man. Parkins had evidently a desire to indulge, but did not dare to undertake it without the example of Vale, who also declining, the snake proprietor stepped up to the bar alone. His manner of calling for liquor was characteristic. Putting on his sternest expression, he listened his glance upon a timid young man among the waiters, and throwing down Iiis dime, said in a measured Websterian tone, " Let it be plain brandy and water.'' VALE A.yV PARKINS. 23 We picked our way through the crowd round to the y/ Irving House. On ascending to the sleeping room, where were some hundred plain cot beds, in an apartment resem- bling the garret of an Irish shanty, we were conducted by Vale to his cot, beneath which, he informed us, was the pannier containing the snake. With the crooked handle of a cotton umbrella, wbich he pulled from amongst his lug- gage, he proceeded to fish out the basket into daylight, but the snake was gone. " Stepped out, by Jupiter !" said Vale. " Just my luck ; — Hilloa ! any of you seen a rattlesnake about nine feet long loose in this chamber ?" This cool interrogatoiy was addressed to some eight or ten saftron-visaged invalids, occupying as many different cots, in the various stages of Chagres fever. How far the electric shock thereby communicated to their debilitated frames helped to kill or cure, I cannot say. One poor devil, evidently near his end, raised his weary head, and looking at us Avith a glassy eye, inquired if he heard aright, and if it was really a rattlesnake we were in search of. On being an- swered in the aflfirmative, he pointed his thin, pale, skinny hand towards an india rubber clothes-bag, leaning against a cot, immediately alongside of where Parkins was stting. " There is one," gasped he faintly ; " that black-whiskered man put him there on guard. It's strange enough, but, oh, thank Heaven, that I'm aot dehrious I" " You miserable vagabond !" yelled Parkins, as he sprang from his seat, giving us a full view of a fine specimen of the scaly brown and white rattlesnake of the tropics. " You old humbug of a Quanto Valley that you are, don't you see you've like to kill me with your confounded speculations ?" " Solomon," observed Vale in reply, " moderate your emo- tions, and don't make a fool of yourself before strangers." 24 LIFE UN THE ISTHMUS. " Yes," reaiaiked tlie .siiuke-tamer ; " Yellow Jack speaks true ; seeing your clothes-bag out in this unprotected style, I put the snake ou duty. This is one of the uses to which the animal can be applied, and in this he has no superior." " Beautiful design !" exclaimed Vale, glancing at Parkins with a triumphant air ; " they will be invaluable on the Isthmus and in California, and I should not be surprised to hear yet of rattlesnakes being put in chai-ge of baggage on the railroads in the States." " With the Anaconda," observed the man of serpents, call- ing off the lattlesnake from his post of duty, and allowing him to coil upon his arm, with his head downwvards, towards his hand ; " with the Anaconda we shall do greater things. This reptile, as you arc probably aware, is possessed of great fleetness. He can likewise be trained to run in a given direc- tion. In the carrying of letters and such valuable packages we can make him of great service." " There's for you, Solomon," observed Vale, patting Parkins affectionately between the shoulders. "Anaconda Line across the Isthmus I Through before breakfast ! How does that strike you, eh, Solomon 'i I nm afraid, sir," continued he, turning to me, " that your camels, though doubtless well disposed beasts, are a httle behind the times." While Mr. Vale was indulging in this bit of enthusiasm, and annihilating space thus freely in his own mind, the wicked snake-tamer had, by various little devices, .such as pinching and pricking the snake, excited him to the requi- site degree of rage, and raising his hand to Vale's right shoulder, as the latter concluded his remarks, let out the snake upon him in such a decisive manner as caused him. Vale, to yell with excruciating pain. " Oh, I'm bit ! I'm bit," roared he, " help, and be quick with it, or I shall die !" VALE AND PARKINS. 25 Then it was tliat Tarkins, forgetful of all the little matters of dift'erence between them, and looking only to the salvation of him who had once been his counsellor and friend, lost entirely what little quantum of wit he ever possessed, and rushed at random among the cots, calling upon somebody, anybody, to saw off Vale's leg, or fetch an emetic, or do something else likely to be of equal service in the cure of a venomous bite. Meanwhile, Sampson lay in his last agony upon the cot, tossing to and fro, his countenance already changing and becoming spotted, and frothy saliva running from his mouth ; there he lay, gazing beseechingly upon the dark- visaged snake-fancier at his side. " Enough of this," said the latter at length, with a kind of disgust in liis tone ; and turning Vale over upon his back, he applied his mouth to the part affected, and drew back the poison which was already dissipated in various parts of the system. He stayed a moment while his patient recovered in a measure his Avonted quietude, and then carefully replacing the rattlesnake in his wicker pannier, bade us a courteous good morning, and went off down stairs. " I am glad he is gone," said the sick man, who had first pointed the snake out to us, " not that there was any fear of his biting we, but when a man's moments are few, and he needs all liis last thoughts for God and himself, it somehow disconcerts him very much, to know that there is a live rattlesnake within a few feet of his bed." Ye who are about to die at home, in the midst of your family and friends, with everything made soft and tender to your aching limbs, with every harsh sound hushed about you, and every wish gratified almost sooner than expressed ; think of this Chagres death-bed — for it is no fancy sketch. 2 26 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. Vale recovered as speedily as he was taken ; Parkins also recovered — his wits. " Solomon," said I to him aside, as I was going off (his Christian name was so fitly inappropriate, that one could not resist calling him by it); " tliis would be a good thing for your old partner, if it would learn him not to meddle with ■what he doesn't understand." "All creation couldn't do that," returned Solomon, "I couldn't myself" And as if to prove the truth of this remark, Sampson Vale thereupon straightened himself up in bed, and thus delivered himself: — " Solomon, my lad, that was well done, eh. If I could only learn that dodge, we'd make our fortune in the State of Maine alone. I'd draw out the poison, and you'd be the man to be bitten !" .1 [JFE SAVED. 27 CHAPTER III. A LIFE SAVKD. ON returning to tlie point I found Tom, who liad come in from the camp to hunt me up, as he said, and notify me that dinner was nearly ready. " One of those chickens that you sent out by Ei-Sta," observed he, " was condemned before going to the spit. Mrs. Wallack and your wife were present at the opening of him ; and his breakfast, consisting of two centipedes and a scorpion, still lay in his stomacli undigested. I suppose they did not want to eat a dyspeptic animal, as they immediately ordered the fowl to be thrown away. In lieu of him we are to bave a dish of green lizard frieaseed.'' " Where is the Major ?" inquired I. " You know very well," replied Tom, " that he never leaves the camels except for the woods. What a keen eye for sport he has to be sure ! and how he revels in the bosom of this voluptuous nature ! lie is as fond of the bush as you are of the town, Xow, do you know what he said to me this morning, as I was complaining of our delay in this cursed hole ? ' Tom,' said he, ' a man that don't enjoy himself at Chagres, is a disgrace to human nature, and a libel on the Almighty I' Such a complimentary thrust as that, of course, was a clincher." " Our cold-blooded and barren New England natures," said I, " are little fitted to sympathize with the impulsive 28 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. temperament of one born and reared, as the Major has been, among the glorious wild woods of Kentucky." " I should think," continued Tom, " that he had never lived anywhere else. AVhy, I have seen him lie for hours on the damp grass of the woods, watching the birds at their occupations or sport among the boughs, or straining his eyes to catch each particular shade of their varied plumage, as they shot across the only line of sunshine that had ventured down that lonely path. And I have seen, too, his eyes glisten, like the green and gold scaly feathers on the breast of the king-hummers, as he calls them, when in some more venturesome wheel of theirs he has discovered something which he had not previously seen, ' some new beauty,' as he terms it. Of course he has a right to enjoy himself as he thinks proper, and prefer his fifty varieties of the humming- bird even to the golden cock of the rock, and the crimson and purple-crested chatterers, if he will ; but I must say, I should think better of the Major's taste if he did not treat my parrots and toucan quite so cavalierly !" " What do you think of the weather, Tom ?" " I think, if this wind lasts much longer, w6 shall have to up stakes, and move our camp back to the Indian village. The spray comes at times as far as the old trees, and makes the camels fairly wince under it." " No damage done yet, I hope ?" " Well, none out there ; but I must tell you of a laugh- able affair which occurred on the beach a few minutes before you returned. You recollect that small panel house, which was bought by my protege. Bill Smith, and which he had erected in the rear of old Joe's house, there ?" " Certainly, and called the Camel Restaurant." " Exactly, in honor of our quadrupeds. Well, one of those outrageous rolleis, which you sometimea see, made a A LIFE SAVED. 29 rush for Bill's liotol, and, nut being founded on a rock, as you are aware, it was swept away. It happened that Bill and two or three others were inside at the time. When the establishment was found to be fairly outward bound, they crept forth, amid the shouts of the crowd. By the aid of a coil of stout rigging which was fortunately at hand, they were all safely landed. Just as Bill was coming out of the surf, his natural love of the theatrical prevailed. Turning to his retreating house, now in a score of pieces, he immor- talized himself as follows : ' There goes the homestead — and Jim Wilkins's boots with it — ' " And now I'm in the world alone, Upon the wide, wide sea — But why should I for others groaa When none will sigh for me ?" ' The effect was beautiful : particularly as not one in a hun- dred of the crowd had ever read Byron, and the lines were, consequently, credited to Bill, as a happy effusion of the moment." " Your protege will probably now fall back upon his original idea, of returning in the Double Eagle ?" " Yes," said Tom, " Bill has decided to take the back track. He has seen the tip of the elephant's tail, and don't care about a further acquaintance with the animal." It may be as well here, for the gratification of those readers who like to see things through in every particular, and who take an especial interest in the pecuniary results of adventure, to state that our vessel arrived at Chagres at a very favorable moment for a return freight. There was, as I have before said, a large number of returning Californians, seeking passage to the States. With the lum- ber which had served for the camel stalls, we fitted up the 30 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. vessel's hold for the accommodation of seventy passengers, and as she lay inside of the bar, almost touching the levee in fact, the desired number was easily obtained. I will merely add as a mercantile fact, that these passengers paid fifty dollars a head — a pretty good business for the owners you will allow — and so dispose of the Double Eagle once for all. Not that I am wearv, either, of the pleasant associations which will ever cluster about the memory of her voyage, or cease to think of her as floating always in an atmosphere of pleasant sunshine, with some of the desert sand still lodged in the fibres of her rigging, and the seams of her d^ck ; but our life while on board her was a dreamy aod fanciful one, and we have now come to deal with hard realities. It was about time to think of returning to the camp for dinner, and we should accordingly have taken uj) our line of iTiarch thitherward, had it not been that, at that mo- ment, there was every appearance of the approach of rain — even while we had been talking, the whole sky had become overcast and leaden, settling gradually lower and lower, and hemming in the horizon on every side, till we seemed to be sitting under a dark, shadowy arch, within which none of heaven's sunshine had ever come. Its radia- tion blackened tlie sea, save where it gave a pallid hue to its whiteness, and made the shore look dark and sombre, and changed also the countenances of men. Beyond its visible sides, the mutterings of the thunder made one think of huge vapory monsters bellowing in the black forests of cloud-land. And the great breakers, equally monstrous, now that they seemed shut up within the same gloomy confine as ourselves, were perfectly frightful to listen to, as they roared in such solemn madness up the beach. There was no chilliness attending this onset, vet men closed their A LIFE SAVED. 31 lips firmly, and buttoned their garments to their chins, as if to fight a subtle enemy. At last it struck, dancing gleefully with its million feet, upon the ragged surface of the sea, trampling over the roofs, and bristling up against the sides of houses, or hurrying headlong in close array down the channels of the street. And now God help the invalids under those same roofs, for there is not one of them but has his own particular rivulet, to give a chillier cast to his discomfort ; and God help those who are on the river, among whom there may be women and children, for a thousand streams are rushing from the mountains to swell its tide, which will soon run like a mill-sluice, and drifting trunks of trees and snags, and fearful eddies at sudden bends, are hard things to navigate amongst. And those poor devils, who have no change of clothing (and there are many such here), who are liable to lie down to-night in their wet garments on damp beds, and wake in the morning with an ague that shall stick to their bones for years, are they not also to be pitied and prayed for? " Sail ho !" shouted a voice, as the vapory mass dis- solved itself, and disclosed the old horizon far out seaward — a strange cry at such a time, and a hazardous navigator it must be, who would not claw off a rock-bound coast, with the devil's own roadstead at the best, in such a gale, and with dirty Aveather to boot. It was nevertheless no false alarm ; a large ship, under reefed jib and close reefed top- sails, was bearing directly down for the anchorage. She came upon our vision opportunely enough, stepping with such a fearless gallant air into our storm-drenched circle, another connecting link with the bright world away. As she round- ed to before dropping anchor, careening in the process till her yard-arms touched the water, and showing upon deck the usual crowd of passengers, she displayed at her mizen- peak the glorious tricolor of sister France. 32 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. I love the French ! — I love them, not because of their great name in history, nor of the noble monuments of art and science which they have scattered along the annals of their whole national existence, nor wholly because of their unquenchable love of liberty and their dashing spirit of adventure, but for their genial, generous soul ; because they have an eye for everything that is bright and beautiful ; because they are the apostles of cheerfulness, and in what- ever circumstances we meet them contribute so much to make the weary days of our life seem gay and lightsome. If a man would find the most direct road to my heart, let him come in the name of Lafayette. Landing at such a time was, of course, not to be thought of by any sane mind ; and yet, if my eyes did not deceive me, preparations for that purpose were going on. Yes, there is a boat on the lee side, with two oarsmen already in ; and there is a third descending by the man-ropes. A desperate set of fellows, certainly 1 — they must be short of provisions, and are going alongside of one of the steamers for a supply. But no — they head for the shore ! Can it be possible ? It is but a frail skiff — the captain's gig, probably, and we can only catch a glimpse of lier now and then, as she rises like an egg-shell on the very crest of a towering sea. She comes on gallantly, guided by no tyro. And yet, what folly to have made the venture ! for they must certainly lose their boat, and, unless expert swimmers, will all go to the bottom together. Bravo 1 she comes on well ; that fellow is a worthy countryman of those who never flinched while " following the imperial eagle over the Alps." She is heading directly for the fort. She will soon be among the breakers ! " Men there I" said a small, spare, pale-faced fellow, coming out of the hotel, "who'll go with me in a surf- A LIFE SAVED 33 boat, for a rescue ot' those crazy-headed fellows .' Talk fast !" But not a man stirred. " A free grog bill at my hotel (for this young man was landlord of the " Empire City ") ; lodgings while you stay, and anything else you may want into the bargain : only come on ! " " Take back that otler," said Tom, springing to his feet, " and I'm with you for one ! " A dozen others immediately presented themselves. The landlord picked out a tall, sandy-haired man ; and saying two were enough, hurried down to the boat. To my surprise, this second man was Vale. /" There goes the venturesome old fool," said a voice at my elbow, which I need not inform the reader belonged to the ex-junior partner. Recognising me, he tapped my shoulder cautiously, and whispered in my ear, " But we must make allowances for Signor Quanto ; for do you know, that in reality he's crazy as a coot ? " " Why do you call him Quanto ? " said I. "That is not his name." " No," replied Parkins, " his name is Sampson Vale ; but the conceited old scoundrel bought a book in New York enti- tled ' Spanish in .Six Lessons ;' and having studied that day and night on the passage, of course considers himself a proficient in the language. You can hear him any hour of the day dickering with the natives on the beach, always beginning his remarks with ' Quanto Valet.' That is why we have nicknamed him thus ; not so bad either, considering that valley is a kind of short for Vale." But the boats. The Frenchman's is already on the edge of the bar, and the helmsman sits in the stern-sheets as coollv 2* 34 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. as Napoleon in tlie saddle at Marengo. And our gallant young landlord is likewise nearing the other edge; he is standing, and steers with an oar. They are approaching each other like knights at a tournament; but the white, roaring, seething gulf is between them. Heaven help us ! the Frenchman is in. Ha ! a rudder is a feeble thing in such a caldron ; she twists and twines like a serpent. But see, something has broken ; she is off in the trough ! angels of mercy, she is over; they are lost! Not quite, for they are not in deep water, and the oarsmen are already clinging to the rocks under Fort Lorenzo. The helmsman, where is he ? All right. He is on his legs, Avith the sea showei'ing him like a cataract. But he is a fellow of nerve, and will weather it. There he goes over, under. O God, he is lost! Stay, there is the surf-boat within her length of him ; she is climbing the same breaker that knocked him under ; she is bolt upright on its perpendicular side. See, she rises to it, and floats again with her bows deep in the brine. There is no Frenchman to be seen ; he must have carried something heavy about his person, for he has gone down. Hurrah ! there he is; haul him in, boys! Nine cheers for Quanto Valley ! Give it to him, boys, and raise the dead ! Yes, at the young helmsman's command, Sampson Vale had hitched his oar, and his old sledge-hammer arm never did better or prompter service. In an eye's twinkle, as it were, the Frenchman was safely deposited in the bows, and Sampson hard at it again on the long and strong stroke. They pulled out into the comparatively smooth water, where our young hero of a helmsman sliifted his oar end for end, and by a use of the same dexterity which he had already shown, recrossed the bar in safety, and with gentle strokes the boat came slowly up to the point. .4 LIFE SAVED. ' 35 I thiuk it is the author of the '" Bachelor of the Albany" who says, " the delicate spirits of earth are the bravest." The landlord of the Empire City Hotel was a young man of a frail and almost etiemiiiate form, an Italian by birth, but educated in America. He had the elegant classic profile and curling h^ir peculiar to his countrymen, and would have been called rather pretty than handsome. But he had the bearing of a prince, and the fire of a thousand furnaces in his coal-black eye. His name was Angelo Vitti. When the Frenchman came to land, we saw at once that he was a man of a distinguished presence and resolute cha- racter. ,' He seemed a little chagrined at having been the hero of such an awkward affair, or rather at having been the awk- ward hero of so gallant an aft'air, for his whole deportment exhibited a profound sense of acknowledgment to Vitti and his companions. As he turned to look after his brave oars- men, who were now scrambling along on the opposite side of the river beneath the beetling crags of the fort, we saw that he had received in his fall a severe blow upon his head. (The blood was flowing profusely therefrom, and it was probably in consequence of this that he staggered, and but for the timely aid of Tom and Quanto Valley would have fallen to the ground. At the direction of Vitti he was taken to the hotel. A Chagres hotel makes but a sorry hospital. Vitti, how- ever, had in his establishment rooms of his own, where it was said more elegance and comfort were to be found than in any other place in Chagres. It was also whispered that this suite of apartments was presided over by a sister of Vitti's, a beautiful girl, who was to hiin a kind of ministering angel, and kept in check, by her presence, the native desperateness of his character. For if the truth must be told, this young adventurer was a gambler, and, like many of his couutiymen, 36 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. "suddeu and quick in qiianel." Here was a nice bit of romance for you. To one of these rooms the Frenchman was immediately taken, and I being at hand was the fortunate individual who Avas dispatched for a surgeon. As good luck would have it, my staunch friend Doctor G was at that moment on the piazza, and we accordingly went up together. The room into which we were ushered, was an apartmen* redolent of elegance and good taste. I may not be able to describe its minute features, but its tirst appearance commu- nicated to my frame an electric thrill of pleasure. It was as if I had shut my eyes, and there had come suddenly to my inner sense a sweet vision of home. We stepped from the rough boards of the entry, upon a soft and yielding tapestry carpet; the richly carved chairs, sofas, lounges, and pier tables, all of the choicest designs, the costly mirrors, the choice paint- ings, the vases, statuary, and flowers, the whole arranged with such an exquisite eye to pleasing effect, overcame us like a dream ; for it seemed to our hungry and unaccustomed senses, as if there was an odor from the spirit of beauty, Hke that which diffuses itself from " spices, and balm, and myrrh," filling the apartment and overhanging it " like a summer cloud." Of a verity, the most delicious intoxication cometh not from the wine cup. There is a subtle essence of which men have sometimes quaffed too freely, which fires the brain, and sends them mad, and staggering about the earth. But I am too fast — When we entered, the Frenchman Avas reclining on a sofa, and Tom stood by his side washing the wound, while Sampson Vale held the water basin. Doctor G examined the part affected, and pronounced the blow to be by no means a serious one, arid that with quiet and suitable attention the unfortunate man would soon recover. A LIFE SAVED. 37 " "Where is Vitti i" said I to Tom, " did lie not come up with you ?" " Yes," replied Tom, " and he has gone to his sister's cham- ber, to consult about what is to be done with this wounded knight." There were two rooms leading from that in which we were, one the chamber of Vitti, and the other occupied by his sister. From the latter, Vitti came forth as we Avere speaking, leading by the hand a young and beautiful girl, in whom it was easy to see the outward signs of a near relationship. " My sister," said he proudly, presenting her to us. I shall not attempt to give to the reader a description of the person of this gentle girl. Her image is so asso- ciated in my mind with the highest, holiest idea of a sister's love and devotion, that I fear lest I should mar its delicate lineaments by venturing on their delineation. A tender exotic from fair Italy, her outward frame was a true type of the exquisite beauty of her character. " Lotta," said Vitti, looking towards the suft'erer, " here is an invalid for you to nurse ; take good care of him, and I think he may survive the cflects of his recklessness," " AVith much pleasure," answered Lotta, in the tenderest of tones, " if you desire it, dear xlngelo." She looked into her brother's eyes as she spoke, a look as calm, and pure, and peaceful, as that which the quiet stars shed down from heaven, and she saw not the glance of unfeigned wonder and admiration wliich the sick man cast towards her. There was nothing wrong about the look ; it was the spontaneous tribute of a susceptible heart to woman's loveli- ness; and had she seen it, it would not have called the faint- est blush of maidenly shame to her cheek, and yet I did not like it. 65037 38 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. It was a presentiment hard to define. The countenance of the Frenchman was such a specimen of manly beauty ; there was something in his clear broad forehead and large soul-lit eyes, so proud and trustworthy ; there was not the vestige of anything mean, base, or sensual in his whole deportment, but something noble and generous, that spoke of the great, because good qualities inherent in the heart. If there is any truth written in human physiognomy, he was a man to be trusted, aye, even with the infinite wealth of a virgin's heart" But if he was not, then God help the world, for there is no outward mark upon his creatures by which we may know them — the good from the bad. And yet I did not like this sudden recognition, on his part, of the girl's grace and beauty, for it seemed to me as if she were spiritualized by the position she had chosen for herself in life — a thing apart from earth-)— and I could not contemplate this possible connexion with it, even in the highest, purest form, without an accompanying presentiment of evil. I cannot define this impression, but 1 felt it not the less strongly because so vaguely. /ft seemed that Vitti had experienced a corresponding sen- timent. " Lotta," said he playfully, as we were all leaving to go down stairs together, " take good care of yourself, darling, as well as of your patient." ""She answered with the same heart-touching tenderness as before. " Our dear father and mother are in heaven, Angelo. You know how they loved us while on earth. Did we cease to love them, or become in any way unworthy of their con- tinued aftection, would it not, think you, mar their eternal happiness ?" Beautiful Carlotta Vitti ! thy parents were indeed iu A LIFE SAVED. 39 heaven ; and thou, in thy loveliness and purity, wert not far from them. We descended the stairs in a kind of stupor, like persons who had seen a vision. I was brought to my every-day senses by a piercing scream from Quanto Valley. The snake proprietor had met us on the piazza, and laid his hand fami- liarly upon Quanto's shoulder. " Nay, don't yell in that manner," said he ; " although by the insertion of my finger nails into your liesh, I could poi- son you as easily as a serjient. But be easy on that score. You are a brave fellow in your way, and to-day have done me a good service. Do you understand," continued he, as Vale looked a little bewildered, " in the rescue of the French Marquis de G you have done me good service ?" I shall never forget the desperately wicked expression of the fellow's face as he said this — Heaven and Hell ! Hell and Heaven ! And can it be that there is so little earthly space between the two ? 40 LIFE 0:>' THE ISTHMUS. CHAPTER IV MONSIEUR CltAl'OLKT. •» AH, but we went merrily" in our eiicampiiieut by the v/ sea. The few days that we spent at Chagres were by no means tedious. Our mode of life was as uncivilized and gipsyish, as the most ardent lover of the picturesque could desire. We certainly had enough to make us uncomfortable, shifts enough to make to get along any way, and we there- fore enjoyed ourselves extremely. The first night of our stay in camp had been a rainy one, and we immediately found out that our Arab tents were not the requisite style of dormitories for that country. We had, accordingly, the next day purchased in town some panel houses, and tarred canvas for covering them. By this arrangement we had plenty of lodging-room. Our cooking was done in the rear, the stove being set up beneath a roof of tarred canvas supported on sticks. We eat out of doors, in pleasant weather, squatting upon tlie grass in Arab fashion, and during the showers, anywhere that promised shelter. It didn't, however, matter so much where we slept, as that we slept at all ; or in what place we eat, provided we had any thing to eat, and cooked in such a manner as to render it palatable. As for sleeping, we had to do it whenever we could. There was no particular time set apart and conse- ciatod to it — I mean rimong the multitude then at Chagres. MONSIEUR CRAPOLET. 41 Their ideas on this subject wei-e very loose. People who had broken away from the conventionalities of life in other respects, were not expected to conform to this very negative one of obser\nng a particular hour for retiring to rest ; and the result was, that we were often favored with company at a time when we were quite unprepared for their reception. Parties inquest of better accommodation than they had been able to find in Chagres proper, deluded by our lights in the distance, came thither, and were unwilling to be persuaded that we did not keep a hotel or house of entertainment. Marauding parties, who had found night hideous at the " Irving " and " Empire City," were instinctively felt at times to be creeping amongst the brushwood, or plunging into the river on our left, and occasionally made us certain of their actual neighborhood by firing otF guns and pistols at inof- fensive objects of natural history. The worst of all these unpleasant little coteries, were, I think, those who were addicted to serenading. Oh, the hours that I have lain, half asleep and half awake, wondering who it was that persisted so pertinaciously in his request to be carried " back to old Yir- ginny ;" and where was that poor girl Susannah, who was so plaintively coaxed to abstain from crying ; and that cruel but " lovely Fan," why didn't she " come out to-night," and still these complaining longings ? Yet to say that we did not rather like this state of things, would be hardly true. It was such an excellent representation of the pursuit of con- viviality under difficulties, that not to have appreciated it would have shown a barrenness of spirit, to which I, for one, do not feel willing to plead guilty. In the alimentary department, things were very unsettled. It was difficult, in the first place, to get anything to eat ; such a hungry set as were these gold-seekers while in transitu^ I believe the world never saw before or since. 42 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. They were, it is true, charged a high price for their meals, but then it was on this very account tlie more foolish in them to attempt to act up to the Yankee doctrine of gettino- their money's worth, inasmuch as what they did eat oi-dina- rily, was, in one particular, like land in the state of New Hampshire, worth the most the least there was of it. But such as it was even, it was hard to get. It is true, there was a bullock daily slaughtered by a misei'able specimen of human nature from Carthagena, wlio used to sell him, hide, horn, and hoof, and, it was whispered, an old boot or two into the bargain ; but as I had observed that none of the Chagres residents ever partook of this luxury, we acted upon the hint, and likewise denied ourselves the same. But it is idle to tell what we didn't have ; and it was certainly curious to see what Ave did have, and how we went to work to get it. Thei-e was now and then an arrival from Jamaica or Carthagena, with turtle, chickens, sheep, yams, plantains, and the like. When this supply fell short, we made diplo- matic visits from kitchen to kitchen of the various hotels ; and if perchance a less ravenous spirit than usual had that day prevailed at table, we assisted to keep from spoiling the fragments which remained. At other times, we went on board vessels lying alongside of the levee, and sometimes succeeded in getting a junk of "old horse;" and, on one occasion — a fjict, reader — a pot of baked beans ! Theso things, imited with what the Major brought in from the woods, and Avhat Ave received as tribute from bivouacs in our neighborhood, kept us after a fashion. Our hours for eating were, Avhenever Ave had anything prepared to eat. And here was a neAv source of annoyance, the preparing of our food. AVe had no cook, although our library boasted of a cook-book. Often a dish whose appear- MONSIEUR CRAPOLET. 43 ance we had anxiously awaited, would present itself in such a questionable shape, that we dared not touch it. It had beeiT prepared " according to the book ;" only in cases where Ave did not have the ingredients required by the said book, we had sometimes substituted such as we did have, which altered materially the whole flavor and relish of the thing. But an acquisition was in store for us, wliich was to put things in this department on an entirely new footing. I think it was some two days after the arrival of the French ship, that Tom and I were loafing despairingly about home, after an unsuccessful sally into the town for food. It was two o'clock ; and we had that morning breakfasted at nine. The Major was in the woods, naturalizing. Our Moors were preparing a huge pot-full of their everlasting kes-coo-soo, a dish which they were never tired of. " Tom,", said I in a feeble tone, " our sole resource now is in the Major." " Yes," replied Tom ; " and a possible dinner oft' hum- ming-birds is a very unsatisfactory prospect to look forward to." "To think, Tom, that we have nothing in camp but the remains of a barrel of biscuit, two junks of salt pork, one ham, a few eggs, a little salt and sugar." "Except the liquor," said Tom, mournfully. " And four o'clock is coming, Tom." " Yes," said Tom, musing ; " and five — " " Aye, and six, Tom." A shout from the returning Major interrupted this spirited dialogue. He hove in sight through the bushes in the rear ground, and was accompanied by a portly stranger ; the two being followed at a short distance by a very old negro. As they approached, we were pleased to see that the Major bore a string of birds ; and that his companion, besides his fowling- 44 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. piece and ammunition, carried a large basket, wliicli, from the manner in ■which it affected his gait, evidently contained something heavy. The old negro had also a struggling ani- mal, which looked amazingly like a monkey, slung across liis back, and a large pagara, or wicker basket, poised upon his head. " Monsieur Crapolet," said the Major, presenting his com- panion. " Messieurs, j'ai bien Thonneur," said Monsieur Crapolet, bowing with the easy off-hand courtesy of a Frenchman. Yes, this was Monsieur Crapolet — a gentleman, it is true, of whom I had never heard before, but a man most worthy to be heard of, notwithstanding. In physique he was a large man, above the common height, and very portly. He had a broad full face, and a head bald upon the top, which shone when he removed his hat in saluting us, as if it had been varnished. His beard was closely shaven and well sprinkled with grey stumps, as was also the short crispy hair upon the sides and back of his head. He had the merry twinkle of a hon vivant in Ids small blue eyes ; and a vohi])tuous style of mouth, about which lingered palpably some of the savory essence distilled from the many good things which had tra- velled that " red pathway." This very pleasant specimen of humanity was attired in a coarse blue hunting-shirt, hanging loose over a pair of white cotton trowsers, stout shoes of raw liide, and a broad-brimmed, dull-colored chapeau de fantasie. The Major, who had already made this gentleman out to be a character, informed us that he had invited him to make "one of us." Men are always gayest when on their last legs. With starvation awaiting us at the next corner, we nevertheless welcomed this additional })alate to our midst, and Tom proposed to celebrate the occasion by a drink. " Khali it be I'eau-de-vie ?" inquired he of our new friend. MOiySIEUR CRAPOLET. 45 The Frenclunan upon this challenge laid down his arms, and divesting himself of chapeau, powder-flask, and shot- pouch, observed that he should interpose no objection to our taking a small sip all round of that excellent " eau que prolonge la vie, et que nous rends gai et joyeuse." I need not say that this introductory sentiment of his completely won our hearts, and made us the more regret the lack of means for carrying out a hospitality which was so well received. I ventured to observe thus much to Monsieur Crapolet, who quite perfected his conquest over us by reply- ing— " Soyez tranquille. I will take charge of the culinary department myself ; I have a boy with me who is au fait in such matters — Thom, venez ici." The old negro deposited his pagara and monkey near the " cook-house," and came tottering up to where we sat. He was a toothless, grizzly, decrepit subject. He was a " boy" doubtless, in the sense that he was far advanced in second childhood. I am not aware of any way of ascertaining with exactitude a negro's age, but I think that this boy must have been somewhere in the second century of his existence. So long, indeed, had his soul and body been together, that the one seemed to have lost entirely its influence with the other, for this boy had a habit of constantly spitting when lie talked, and he always thought aloud, and of scratching his head at frequent intervals — little physical peculiarities which I am very sure a professional cook would not indulge in, if lie was supposed to have any control over his bodily functions. In that very remote period when Thom had been younger than he now was, he had probably been somewhat of a hard customer, if one might draw any inference at all from sundry deep cuts across his cheek and shoulders, and the fact that both of his ears were considerably cropped ; 46 LIFE O.V THE ISTIIMl S. even now, as lie stood before us, lie tairly crouched as if in expectation of the well remembered lash. His costume is easily described. It consisted of m pair of coarse blue cotton trowsers. " This boy," said ^Monsieur Crapolet, giving the youth a gentle chuck under the chin, which sent his di'ooping lower jaw with prodigious force against the upper, and brought his face into a horizontal position ; " this boy, whom I call Thorn, an abbreviation of the English name Thomas, under- stands well his affair. N''cst-ce 'pas^ Thorn?" " Oui, monsieur,^'' said Thom. He was not so much a promising boy as an assenting one. "^/i bien, Thom, we will to-day have for dinner" — and our new superintendent of the culinary department went on with a string of dishes, specified in the Creole dialect, which betokened something bountiful, if not nice. At the enume- ration of each article, Thom inserted his assenting " Oui, monsieur.^'' For so negative a character, he certainly made a great use of the affirmative in conversation. Monsieur Crapolet then stated that he had only one con- dition to make with us before entering upon the practical duties of his situation, and that was that he should be the supreme head of his department, and that no one else should interfere even to the extent of visiting the cook-house while in operation. As it has always been an article of my creed not to inquire too closely into the causes of any good prac- tical result, this arrangement was quite acceptable, so far as I was concerned at any rate, and the chief and his subordinate immediately set about their preparatory labors. An addi- tional piece of canvas was stretched perpendicularly across the front of the cook-house, at a considerable distance from the other buildings of our encampment. Behind this were taken the pagara, basket, and monkey. What was next done MOySIEUR CRAPOLET. 41 I cannot sa}-. The black curtain of tarred canvas hung heavy and impenetrable between us and the theatre of ope- rations, and the mysteries of that place are yet unrevealed. When dinner was fairly under weigh, as we judged from the savory odors which occasionally drifted outward to our domiciles, Monsieur Crapolet came forth, witli his large, full face all aglow with pleasurable emotions. " Ca va ! 9a va !" said he, rubbing his hands together, " we shall eat something good to-day — Thom est un garqon d'esprit." '• How does it happen," said I, beckoning him to a seat beside me, " that a gentleman of your talents and Parisian tastes is adrift in such a dreary land as this ?" "Ah," replied Monsieur Crajjolet, "you have touched upon a delicate theme, in consequence of which we will take another coup de petit lait, for, voyez-vous, I have a little weakness on this subject." " And so you are not a gold-seeker," said I, after we had each taken a refreshing sip of " petit lait." " In me," said he, striving hard to suppress the rosy twinkle of his eye, and speaking in a melancholy voice, which came strangely out of such a bonhomie mouth, " you be- hold an unfortunate individual, who has left a land where they have interred all whom he once loved." " Indeed," said I, trying to raise a tender tone, for in a robust gentleman of fifty this allusion was not so pathetic as I could have desired, — " an affair of the heart ?" " Au juste !" said he, laying both hands upon his bowels in a manner expressive of great pain, and which led me to think at first that our " petit lait" was not the right medicine in his case. " I am here because solitude, hardships, and self-denial — another petit coup of this excellent ' lait,'' if you please — are, as I was about to say, the true remedy for a 48 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. lacerated heart. You see, in my younger days I was a sus- ceptible boy. Mon dieu, how my heart used to beat when a bright eye showered its radiance upon me ! Sir, if you will believe me, a swan-like neck, or an elegantly chiselled foot, made my knees shake under me. Eh bien ! in our village, for I was born in a small village near Paris, there were two demoiselles, between whom my heart was equally divided, Virginie and Mathilde — un petit coup de lait a leur sante." ])ear, delightful Monsieur Crapolet, he is getting deep into pathos, but if he is not careful the constitutional bonhomie of his nature will run away with him. " You see," continued he, after fortifying himself witli a copious draught, " that this was a harassing state of things. So terrible did this condition of uncertainty as to the prepon- derating state of my aft'ections become, that I was forced to fly my country. In a far land, said I, my heart will become tranquil, and be able coolly to choose its future life-long com- panion. Y"ou may believe me, Sir, when I tell you, that I had resided seventeen years in Cayenne, French Guiana, before I fully made up my mind as to which of the two mj'^ affections most strongly inclined. It proved to be Virginie, — another coup de lait, s'il vous plait, a la sante de ma chere Virginie." " And it was in Frencli Guiana that you made the ac- quaintance of Thom, our cook ?" "Sir, you are my friend. Thom, too, is an excellent boy, but I beg of you that you will not mention him in this con- nexion. Eh bien, after an absence of seventeen years, I returned to my native land with the intention of espousing Virginie, or, in the event of anything having happened to her, making Mathilde the happy companion of my bosom — and what do you think — I found them both " MONSIEUR CRAl'OLET. 49 " Uead r " Dead ! le diable — uo, married !" Here was a climax. I must cerlaiuly Lave mistranslated his remark about iuterriug tlie objects of Lis love. I Lad a strong desire to laugL, and am sure that we sLould have had " an aflair," Lad not TLom at tliat moment announced the dinner. It was served upon a table built in CLagres fashion ; that Ls, upon rough pine boaids laid atliwart of empty barrels. We had soup to begin with, and various other smoking and palatable-looking dishes. We were all of us pretty hungry, and I believe enjoyed the repast none the less for its mys- terious appearance. It was plain enough that Monsieur Crapolet had purged his bosom of a good deal of " perilous stuft" by his confession to me, for he now appeared as a polite Frenchman in full feather, helping the ladies to a bit of roast veal, some of the canvas-back, just a wing of fri- caseed chicken, and the like ; while the rest of us looked on in amazement, not so much at the variety of dishes which were produced by Thom at such short notice, as to find that liis master had a name ready for each. Xow, reader, my belief then was, and still is, that our dinner that day, roast veal, mutton chop, baked duck, frica- seed chicken, stewed brains, petites pates, and Avhatever else we might have had, all owed its origin to that wounded monkey which I liavf already alluded to as Laving been smuggled by Tom beLind the ra!i\as curtain. And my reasons are, tLat, in tLe firnl place, Le never appeared again in life. In tLe second place, a monkey's skin and entrails were found tLe next day at a sLort distance from camp, directly in rear of the cookery, by a party of disinterested people, wLo brougLt tLe same to us for exLibition. And in tLe tLird place, visions of inonkeys hx tLo various stages of 50 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. frying, stewing, and roasting, came that night and capered gibberingly around my bed ; and afterwards I was trans- ported as it were to a lonesome place in the woods, where was a coffin, and a gang of monkeys solemnly digging a grave for its disposal ; beneath the open lid of which, too, I shuddered at beholding the well remembered features of our toothless cook — and still later in the night I had a third vision, and another troop of monkeys, — the posteiity, doubt- less, of these former, — were dancing by moonlight in that self-same woodland spot, sin^ng mournfully but gleefully a ■well-known Ethiopian melody ; and then I remembered that Thom lay buried beneath that green sward, and that he was the " Uncle Ned " of whom they sang as having died in that melancholy " long, long ago." During the period that Monsieur Crapolet catered for our party, I think we eat about a monkey a-piece, besides lizards, mud turtles, salamanders, water rats, and anaconda steaks ; nevertheless, we did not complain of our fare. To have done so Avould have implied a non-fulfilment of the condi- tion to which we had mutually bound ourselves. Mr. Sam Weller is recorded as having observed on one occasion that *' Weal pie was a good thing when you knew that it warn't made of kittens." On our part we went further, and de- voured with a keen relish haunches of deer, which we were morally certain was but a kind of nom de cuisine for alli- gators' tails. I must also say, in justice to Monsieur Crapolet and his subordinate Tom, that other and plainer dishes were often set before us, and that if we partook of these doubtful viands it was because we preferred them — the greatest compliment ■which we coijld have paid to the magic of their cookery. PREPARATIONS FOR A START. CHAPTER V. PREPARATIONS FOR A START. ¥E had now been in Chagres some ten days ; tlie camels were sufficiently refreshed after the fatigues of the voy- age, to warrant an immediate undertaking of our journey across the Isthmus. We had taken advice relating to the best way of proceeding, and had come to the conclusion to try the land route. AVe were told that there was a good paved road, lying somewhere on the native side of the river, and continuing along on the same side till near the neigh- borhood of Cruces, where the stream was easily forded, and beyond which it connected with the old road from Cruces to Panama, which many of my readers have doubt- less travelled. The great difficulty about this road seemed "lO be, the finding it. Some put it as commencing away down at Porto Bello, some as beginning near Navy Bay; and othei"s were firm in their statements, that it originally started from Chagres. But all allowed that we should hit it if we went back far enough into the busli. If there was any road at all, or any possibility of getting over the ground in this direction, we thought it preferable to trying the river, as the boating of our camels as far as Cruces would be a very expensive and tedious affair. Accordingly, one fine morning, after a rainy night be it understood, we shook down and boxed our houses, struck our tents, pulled up stakes, and packed everything, including 52 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. tlie cooking-stove and fixtures, upon the camels (chameaux, Monsieur Crapolet used to call thera). We then bade adieu to the ground of our sojourn, wending our way towards the town. I do not remember that I looked back upon the spot at that time, with any particular emotion. The remembrance of recent annoyances was then fresh, and I presume that the brisk action of our beasts rather led me to look forward with pleasant anticijjations, than to an indulgence in senti- mental regrets. But now, as I write, it is different. That spot of earth, in its untamed beauty and luxurious- ness, rises up before me like a picture. Yes, I am back again by the great seu-side, with the mountain brook not far away, rushing so passionately yet tenderly to its embrace. Tliere are the old elms, and the long beach in the foreground, and the grand sombre mountains in the rear. There is the well remembered path through the brushwood, leading back to the Indian Village, and beyond, too, up a high hill, where I sometimes went with the Major, and from whence we could discern vessels below our horizon on the beach, bound, on the one tack, it might be to San Juan, or on the other, to Porto Bello. Beyond the river rises a steep rocky bluff, at whose base the waters were always white, whether milky in pleasant play, or livid with rage. And on the hither side is a shady nook, formed by willows growing out of the sand, where the washerwomen, who came from Chagres, were wont to deposit heaps of clothing, rich with the auriferous mud of the Yuba or Feather River. I see, too, the deck timber — fragment of a former wreck, which had been driven thus far landward, during some strong northerly gale, years before — now fixed steadfastly under the shade of these Avillows, upon whose ragged side, as worn, and weather- beaten, and ragged-looking men, had sometimes come and Bat, peering over the deep, and blessing the hairy front which PREP A RATIONS FOR A START. 53 also frowned or smiled upon their native shores. And the path leading to the town, the path that I daily travelled, in some places, winding back far into the bush, and again curving outward, so as to give a full view of the sea ; no " primrose path," and yet much frequented at tliat time, rich in mud and slimy spots, but still picturesque from its luxuri- ant borders of alder, mangrove, and palatuvia, chequered as they were on either side with towering palms and cocoa- nut trees, with now a straggling ray of sunshine lingering momentarily aloft on their dark green branches, and anon a merry party of rain-drops playfully dancing over them in their downward tramp. These ai"e some of the features of the scene. Nothing remarkable in all this, you will say. Perhaps not, yet it was something to have the great heaving sea evermore at one's door, muttering like an old fireside crone of unfathomable mysteries ; to see it during the long days, in all its many moods, and feel it so near, that one could lay liis hand at any moment on its shaggy mane, to watch it darkening beneath the forecoming shadow of night, changing then its tales from the glory of proud navies that liad ridden upon its bosom to the sad fate of manly hearts, and rosy, smiles, that had sunk and been quenched for ever in its turbulent depths ; and to wake during the still dark- ness or no less solemn moonlight, and hear it yet there, with a more melancholy murmur in its deep voice, as if the dead everywhere sleeping in its bosom, made restless moan- ing over their lost years of life. There was an awful grandeur, too, in the recollection, that while all other voices of earth had changed or passed away, this world-reverberating music of the sea had been sounding on evermore the same from the creation ; like a deep eternal undertone, stirring the soul in its profoundest depths. 64 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. Truly us well as be auli fully, has Eogland's woman poet suug : — " Tiie Doriau flute that sighed of yore, Along tliy wave is still, The harp of Judah peals no more. On Zion's awful hill. " And mute the Moorish liorn tliat rang O'er stream and mountain free, And the hymn the leagued crusader sang, Hath died in Galilee. " But thou art swelling on, thou deep. Through many an olden clime, Thy billowy anthem ne'er to sleep, Until the close of time." A.nd it was something to know, that on the other hand were the hills, whos^e fastnesses man liad not penetrated, but within whose deep rich glens, and dark shadowy jun- gles, masses of animal life were revelling and rejoicing, although to our dull sense they rose up silent, solitary, and forbidding — evergreen liills, upon whose summits or slop- ing sides no snow or ice liad ever lain, but where vegetation bloomed and died and bloomed again, and presented always the same perennial front of verdure. It was curious to see how steadfastly but vainly the ocean kept sending its pha- lanxes of waves to overrun this green domain, and how some- times the salt from its spray would lodge upon the branches of trees far up the hill sides, and their green leaves and clinging mosses would droop as if poisoned ; and then to see a friendly power rush out from its ambush in the skies — no less than an army of rain-drops, which would do their woik so thoroughly, in purifying and cleaning these delicate PREPARATIONS J'OR A START. 55 dresses of the wood, that each shrub and bush and dark old tree looked all the fi-esher and more sparkling in the next ray of sunshine which came thither. This water from heaven, in its kindly mission, found its way into the very thickest of the glade, and it was no uncommon thing to see masses of vapor in the early dawn which we might consider as its disembodied spirit, hovering about these green declivi- ties, and gradually soaring heavenward. But why refer to all this — well enough in a poet, which I am not, or a child, which I can never be again : only to show the free and intense style of life which we then led. Because in the breaking up and absence of conventional forms we had seemed to get back nearer to the old mother nature, and lay as it were more tranquilly on her bosom. Our insignificant bodies dwindled as the face of the old mother grew warm, distinct, and loving. What if infection pervaded the air we breathed. Did we not, on that account, feel a kindlier interest in the stars, and the blue arch, and yet love the cheery earth none the less ? / Can a man evade death by being a coward ; and where can he die so well as where sympathies from the infinite heart of the world seem to be drawing him thitherward ? ' Often since, when 'stifling in close streets, with the faces of ungenial men hemming me in, or stalled, as it were, in a set form of daily life, a stupid routine of dull duties, have I looked back upon these wild scenes with an inward chafen- ing and pining to be away. It has seemed as if I would give weeks, aye months, of this dull life for a few hours of that. It has been objected to adventure, that it unfits one for the sober pursuits of life ; but who on this account would shut his eyes to the picture of loveliness which the great Father, every morning and evening, unrolls afresh ? and 56 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. how can he so well see and feel all its wonderful delicacy and eternal beauty, as by shaking oft" his native sluggishness, and going out in simplicity of heart and habits, to sojourn amid new and unaccustomed scenes ? lie is, indeed, a / pitiful object to contemplate who can live amid the grand, and beautiful, and heroic, either in the natural or moral world, and be none the better for it. "Eut tills we iVoin ttie mountains learn, And this the valleys show, That never will they deign to hold Communion where the heart is cold. To Ininian weal and woe. "The man of al-joct soiil in vain Shall walk the Marathonian plain. Or thread the shadowy gloom, That still infests the guardian pass. Where stood sublime Leonidas, Devoted to the tomb." v' There was no lack of lieroism in the character of these : "sturdy, on-pushing gold-hunters ; there was grandeur in the ' unrivalled hardships which they voluntarily endured i^ this stage of their experience, and sublimity in some of the attending circumstances, for daily at Chagres heaven's artillery thundered forth its salvos, and nightly its lightning flashes were the literal lamp of the voyagers mounting or descending the i-iver. " Something too much of this." To go on then with n)y story : On reaching the point we found the few friends who were to come into our party, ready and waiting to receive us. Among these were Messrs. Vale and Parkins, the former of whom had decided, <^)n the whole, that " the camel busi- ness was the best thing going,'' and had fully made up his PREPARATIONS FOR A START. 67 mind to stick to it, until something better shoukl present itself. This volatile gentleman was seated in the centre of a heap of baggage, and liis conspicuous position would, doubt- less, have helped to set off his native advantages, had he not been doubled up like Wordsworth's , book-worm. In fact, he was just then engaged in opening a liquor-case contain- ing several descriptions of cordials, besides gin, brandy, and old Jamaica. After drawing forth a couple of bottles suc- cessively, holding them towards the sun, and taking a small sip of each, he returned them to his case with a dissatisfied air, and at length produced a third, the color and taste of which seemed to suit. He first threw his head backward, with a jerk, then gave three or four twists of his wiry neck, as many stretchings of his lengthy arms, and at last cleared his throat with a hem or two preparatory to a generous draught All thiS time Parkins stood by, looking on with a countenance in which disappointment, contempt, and anger were curiously mingled. Wlien Vale raised the bottle to his lips with the deliberation of a man about to take a final pull, Parkins could restrain himself no longer ; bending forward slightlj to get into a posture which enabled his hand to reach the coveted flask, he struck it such a well aimed blow as sent the liquor into the nose and eyes, as well as stomach of the thirsty Vale, and then grabbing it as it fell, he, Par- kins, ste[iped nimbly beyond the reach of his companion's sledge-hammer arm. But the latter was in no wise disconcerted by the abrupt termination of his enjoyment. Rising up, he cast a mildly reproving glance at the retreating foe. " Solomon," said he, in an aflfectionate tone, " how often shall I have to caution you against indulging in this love of strong drink !" "Just hear him !" said Parkins, who had fortified himself 3* 58 LIFE OA THF. I.STHMUS. with no homoeopathic dose, " he never drinks ; oh, no, he tastes ; except of course, gentlemen, when he has the bilious colic, and that's a complaint he's pretty generally troubled with." 'J'he camels were kneeling, and we had left our seats to superintend the packing of our companions' baggage. " Whose is all this ?" said I, pointing to the heap of trunks, boxes, bags, etcetera, in the vicinity of Vale, " a formidable lot truly." " That is some of mine," replied Vale, nowise abashed at tlie implied tenor of my interrogatory, " the rest of it is com- ing ; I have got two natives in my employ since an hour, and nearly half of it is along already !" " But it is not possible, my dear sir, that you have twice as much baggage as we see here ; why, you have already a load for two camels." " I told him repeatedly," observed ' Parkins, coming for- ward, " that he would never get it across." " It is even so, nevertheless,'' reiterated tlie senior partner, '•and I do not see that I can well spare anything; but let it be as you say, gentlemen, in that matter." " What is to be done ?" inquired the Major, for it was cer- tainly out of the (question to think of lumbering our camels up with this mass of things. "Sell the superfluous at auction," said Tom, with the ready wit for which he was remarkable. " Parbleu !" said Monsieur Crapolet, " Je n'ai pas trop — he can well divide with me." Monsieur Crapolet spoke truly, for the heart of the gene- rous Frenchman was his greatest possession. In point of worldly goods he had but his fowling-piece and ammunition, the contents of his basket, and Thom's pagara, whatever the latter might have been. But as his proposition did not seem to meet exactly the merits of the case, it was unanimously PREPARATIOSS FOR A START. 59 voted that Tom's plan be adopted, and furthermore, that he should officiate as auctioneer. ^\Tien this decision was officially announced, Monsieur Crapolet produced a tin horn from the pagara of Thorn, with which he proposed to call the amateurs together musically, on condition of his being allowed two drinks to our one. Vale, who had seemed by his looks to rather demur to the first proposition of Tom, looked even blanker at this second one of Crapolet, but it was carried notwithstanding, without a dissenting voice. The first case opened, happened to contain books, and the first book taken out was Bowditch's Navigator. " Here it is," shouted Tom, " a book which ought to be found in every well regulated family ; contains particular di- rections about crossing the Isthmus, also how to make salt water out of fresh (sailors I mean, of course.) — Let's see ; here is the title page — ' Bowditch's Navigator, Mercator Sail- ing, short cut from Cruces to Panama,' &c., &c., — lunar ob- servations, world without end — how much is ofiered for Nathaniel !" . If my memory serves me right, " Nathaniel " was pur- chased by a swarthy native, who had evidently been pleasantly excited by the allusion to Cruces and Panama, for the sum of three dollars. The performances of Monsieur Crapolet upon the tin horn had been eminently successful. A crowd speedily collected about Tom and his wares, and the book sales went on briskly. " The next work on the catalogue," said the auctioneer, " is this splendidly bound edition of Byron, with a life by Bulwer, as the Ethiopian poet says, no less beautifully than truly : " Oh, Bulwer he wrote William Tell, And Spokesheare wrote Oteller, Lord Byron, he wrote weiy well, But Dickens — he wrote Weller!" 60 LIPE ON THE ISTHMUS. " How much for this splendid edition of Byron ?" " Bee-rong ! " shouted Monsieur Crapolet correctively. " C'est bien drole que les Anglais ne peuvent jamais ap- prendre a prononcer meme les noms de leurs poetes les plus distingues." It is proper here to observe that Sampson Vale had up to this time been attentively Avatching the movements of the auctioneer, and had not remarked that Thom, at the instiga- tion of his master, had removed the liquor-case from his side, and deposited it carefully within reach of Monsieur Crapolet. But this gratuitous observation of the latter had drawn our attention towards him, and to the great horror of Vale, there he v>'as, this victim of a broken heart, reclining cosily Tipon a sea chest, with a brandy tlask in- one hand and a "petit verre" in the other, a perfect Jupiter of good hu- mor and conviviality in the midst of his attendant gods, to whom Thom, with a second flask and " petit verre," offi- ciated in the character of a venerable Ganymede. Strange to say, I noticed Parkins in this group of celestials. While the Major was superintending the packing of the camels, I strolled up to the " Empire City," partly to get & fresh box of " Wandering Jews," and partly to say good-bye to its brave voung landlord. Vitti was in the dining-room of his hotel, seated at table ii) company with two others, card-playing. One of his com- panions was the French nobleman. Count de G . I sup- pose the Count had been a winner at the time I entered, for on seeing me, he rose and proposed breaking off the game. This Vitti passionately refused to do, saying that he had lost everything but his hotel and land, and was determined to risk that for Avhat it was worth. They played one more round, and Vitti was a poor man with not a cent in the world. PREPARATIONS FOR A START. 01 " Gentlemen," said he, rising, and looking steadily at the Count, " I am ruined ; but it was fairly done. You may consider me as your guest till I can find business." " Nay," said the Count ; " my dear Angelo, this must not be. Keep your house and lands ; I do not need them. But for your generous aid my heirs would have been ere long in possession of my property, and you had retained yours." " I scorn to receive pay," replied Vitti, " for doing what I should have been a wretch to have left undone. Neverthe- less, for my sister's sake, I will continue here awhile as your agent, till I can repay you for your advances." . .".Let it be for your sister's sake, then," said the Count. The third party present, whom I recognised as the owner of the snake which had bitten Vale, smiled darkly at this arrangement, as if he saw something infernal in the transac- tion, which pleased him on that account. " Vitti," said I, as I shook him by the hand on leaving, " this is a wild, lawless country. The only rule of action here, as you well know, is the barbaric one that ' might makes right.' We can't tell what may happen ; but if any trouble comes to you, remember that, for one, I am your friend." " It's not for myself," replied Vitti earnestly, "that I appre- hend anything, at least anything more than my deserts. I am but a reckless vagabond at the best ; my whole life has been a miserable mistake, and it's too late to try to correct it, even if I knew where to begin. But with my sister it is very different ; she is as pure and stainless as a little child. Now, whilst I live, I can protect her to the extent of my life. But if anything should happen to me — you know what I would say, sir." " I understand you," said I, " and you may be certain that it shall be as you desire ; only let me beg of you to be care- 62 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. ful of your w urds and actions for her sake, and not recklessly peril a life which has so nnicli depending on it." Vitti wiped the tears from his eyes with one hand as he shook mine nervously with the other ; and so we parted. On reaching the point again, I found tte auction terminated, and several new features introduced upon the face of things. LA RUVTE. 63 CHAPTER Vr. EN ROUTE. EVERYTHING was now in order ibr Ji start. Tbo ohuk'Is were packed, and the barges wliich were to transport tlieni and us across the river were in readiness at the levee. This being the case, I was somewhat surprised to see the lieaps of baggage belonging to Messrs. Vale and Parkins lying still upon the sand, and the camels destined for their accommodation freighted with other packages. It, at .first, occurred to me that the former of these two gentlemen had become dissatisfied at the summary manner in which Tom was- disposing of his mental food, or the not less summary dis- position of his creature comforts by Monsieur Crapolet. I was, therefore, even more surprised to notice upon a second glance the tall figure of Signor Vale, a little apart from the group it is true, but surveying them with a loving and bene- volent glow upon his face, and a certain fire in his eye, which flickered brilliantly as it roamed over the entire scene, the while his lips smacked approvingly in token of a most portentous inward satisfaction. " My dear Vale," said I, approaching him, a little too abruptly perhaps, considering his exalted mood of mind ; for I had really come to feel a liking for this curious man. " I trust that we are not to lose the pleasure of your company in our journey across the Isthmus." " Pretty good !" observed Parkins, who, with a singular 64 LIFE OX THE ISTHMUS. perverseness of mind, evidently understood me as speaking satirically. " Ah," said Vale, coming to himself, and calling in his wandering fancies with a jerk as it were. " Yes, yes, you speak truly. I shall not be of your party across the Isthmus. Are you aware, sir. that since you left us, but a moment ago, sir, in j.oiUl ui June, a great idea has come to me?" " Quanto Valley," said Parkins, more savagely than the occasion, seeined to warrant, " has had great ideas enough in his lifetime to have ruined the whole world." " Solomon," returned his companion aflectionately, " let me entreat of you not to parade thus the superficial charac- ter of your mind." " As I was about to observe, it has occurred to me in looking over this sandy patch, seeing it in its present state, and reflecting upon its capabilities, that there are great things to be done here. The trouble thus far has been, I opine, the want of a head, one great directing power to see its wants, and with brains sufficient to devise ways and means to meet them." " Say rather a heart," said a young man who had just joined us ; " a great heart teeming with affection, a heart large enough to embrace all these weary people in the folds of its love. Let such a heart make its abode here, seeking nothing, thinking nothing, knowing nothing but the good and liappiness of all around it; and do you not think that a bright radiance would go out thence, which would beau- tify this place even a« thoroughly as it would purify it? Now you, sir, were no doubt thinking of draining these marshes, of establishing sanitary regulations, of laying out streets, of founding a liospital." " Quite right, sir. You see that mountain but little over EN ROUTE. 65 a mile distant. ^^hy we eoiild lay u strap rail from thence to the point, put on our dirt cars, and vvitli a few mules, we would bring this whole township high and dry on a beauti- ful slope. We should in the first place lay alongside of the alcaide and priest, secure a grant, then " " Lay alongside of the padre first, get his good graces, and I'll guarantee the rest of the jockeys." This latter observation proceeded from one of the two gentlemen, who, at that moment, had joined our group in company with Tom. The speaker, whom Tom announced as Judge Smithers, was a large robust man of florid com- plexion, short square whiskers, blue eyes, a broad head, large nose, and a mouth in which good practical common sense seemed to well up as it were spontaneously. This was the most remarkable thing about the man. He always seemed to have the very item of information or suggestion that was needed rolling upon his tongue, like a choice tit-bit, and had only to open his mouth for it to roll out. His companion was presented as Colonel Allen, of Mis- souri. He was not so large a man as the judge, and had a staring kind of face, very red as if from hard drinking. His eyes were large, wide open, and considerably bloodshot ; and his mouth, which was also large, was in like manner gene- rally extended beyond its natural limits by an inveterate habit of grinning, wliich he had probably fallen into when quite young. " These two gentlemen, and this third, Mr. Arthur Orring- ton," said Tom, with a bow towards the young man, to whom I have already alluded, as having objected in a measure to one of Vale's great ideas, " are to join us ; and their baggage is already packed in lieu of that of these renegades here, Vale and Parkins. But I am not the boy to interrupt a pleasant story. Pray go on, Mr. ^ ale." 66 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. *' I was saying," continued Vale, " when you came up, that there was a great chance for improvement here." " I guess you hit it there," said the judge, who, as Tom subsequently informed me, was not exactly a judge in point of law, but was a great judge of horseflesh, and had run the first line of stages from Vera Cruz to the city of Mexico. " The subscriber is ready to make affidavit to that effect," added the Colonel. This gentleman I afterwards learned was a printer by profession, and from his invariably alluding to himself as " the subscriber," am inclined to think that he had been mostly employed in the advertising depart- ment. " Go on," said Parkins, anxious for his friend to arrive at a point where so great unanimity would not probably prevail. " And, as I was going to say, that having filled up this back marsh here and secured our grant, we should proceed to survey and stake off lots, lay out streets, and in short make a regular land company aftair of it. Then we should build a breakwater along here, from the point out, leaving a space between that and the opposite coast suitable for a good ship channel, which we should keep of sufficient depth by steam-scows — if necessary, spile the levee." " Hold on, old boy," exclaimed the Colonel, " and allow the subscriber to observe, that, in his humble opinion, the levee here bears altogether too great a similarity to a decayed egg to lie in any possibility of spiling." " Well done, Allen," retorted Judge Smithers, " for a San Francisco editor you are, certainly, wonderfully erudite. By spiling the levee, the hombre refers to driving spiles or stout sticks of timber along its banks to prevent caving. Where the ' dosh' is to come from to carry out this idea does not appear as yet, — but doubtless will." EN ROUTE. G7 " From New England, Sir, my uutive jjlace,'' said V^ale majestically. " Whew !" said the Colonel, snapping his fingers, as if they were either burnt or tingled with cold. The judge said nothing, but contented himself with hum- ming a fragment of an old song, familiar to our childhood* beginning : " Wlien I was a little boy, I lived by myself, All the bread and clieese I got, I put upon the snelf." "I wish you joy of your mission," said Toic, '• and hope you'll stick to it." " You may bet high on that," concluded Parkins ; " oh, yes, he'll stick to it like cobbler's wax to an ile-stone." It was now time to be off. The bright sun was shining; in a clear sky, and it was deemed expedient to take advantage of so unusual a state of things. We left Vale still under the exhilarating influence of his new idea, with Parkins buzzing his monotonous undertone of discouragement under his very nose. Perhaps after all, if our enthusiast had not had this outward, palpable drag upon him, his own nature might have furnished it inwardly ; and so with harsh imaginings of possible difhculties and objections, have crushed and stifled its gossamer thread of life, whereas the estimation in which he lield tlie mental cluiracter of his associate, rendered him quite regai'dless of his opinions. I could not help observing, in the person of our new com- rade, Colonel Allen, a remarkably reckless style of dressing and conducting himself. Wheiher I should have paid any particular heed to this at that time, I do not know, had it not formed so striking a contrast to the costume and de- portment of Mr. Arthur Orrington. The latter gentleman had « mild, pale countenance, with a touchingly benevolent G8 LIFE ON 711 E ISTHMiS. expression, and a soft, alTectionate eye. He looked like .a man who had no business among- the liard, rude, selfish things of life. His dress was scrupulously neat, and severelv correct, in point of taste ; so simple in fact as to suggest the idea of a ministerial cliaraoter in the wearer. You would have known at once upon seeing liim, that he had a tixed and certain character of his own, that was made to set its mark somewhere, perhaps gently, even timidly, hut none the less firmly and durably for that. Now the Colonel was got up in altogether another style. He -had evidently been battered about the world, and was considerably the shabbier for it. It might have been that some great wrong done to him when young had broken his manly spirit, and made him careless of what fortune might have left for him among her stores ; or, it might have been that he never had any particular character at all, and had fallen into rowdyism, as being the most easy and natuial thing to do. He was one of those men who appear always ready for whatever the moment ofters, the more outre and bizarre the occupation, the better ; an entire contempt of anything bordering on etiquette or formality, and a perfect freedom from bashfulness or fear, were his prominent cha- racteristics. He was attired in a seedy bjack dress-coat, with coai-se grey trowsers, a blue cloth vest ornamented with brass buttons, stout cow-hide boots, and a hat far gone in dilapi- dation. It was this crowning head-piece which gave the final touch to his faded and shabby (out ensemble, although, from the appearance of his nether garments, one might reasonably liave doubted whether he were on liis last legs, or merely in his last ))air of trowsers. Colonel Allen was, in .short, the beau ideal of that numerous class, known as "people not well to do in the world," or " men who have seen better days.'' How many of this class do we daily meet, and how EN ROUTE. 69 few like Arthur Orrington ; for the world is full of blight, and ruin, and decay ; and modesty, charity, and unselfish- ness are the flowers which grow rarely among its noisome weeds. "We got our camels into the barges, and were seating ourselves to be ready for a start, but Monsieur Crapolet insisted upon Thorn's serving out one additional drink. It is, peihaps, hardly fair in me to expose the fact, that our dejected Frenchman and his friends had already drunk the contents of five of the flasks in Vale's liquor-case, leaving but the sixth, which was now to be sacrificed upon the same altar of conviviality. It was a small square flask — as Thorn poured the liquor into the quaintly-cut tiny glasses, it glis- tened and shone in the bright sunlight with a ruby-like sparkle. The rough conclave, whom the doubly bereaved lover had gathered about him, received each, his allotted part with a reverential air, except, indeed, our unterrified Colonel from Missouri. " An extra tot of grog," said he, as Thom handed him his glass, at the same time drawing one hand from his trowsers' pocket, and ejecting from his stained and reeking mouth a huge quid of tobacco ; " the subscriber is open to conviction as to the quality of the liquor." " It's some kind of French cordial," observed the Judge ; '' it takes the French to mystify us in the stomachic department." "Nothing horizontal about it?" inquired the Colonel. " I trust not, for your sake," replied the Judge. " Messieurs," began Monsieur Crapolet, and there was a deep silence while he spoke ; " c'est ' le Parfait Amour.' Whosoever drinks of this cordial finds therein a balm for a broken heart, for it begets within us a love for all the world. It causes us to forget the weariness of life, and helps us witk a kindlv arm towards our final resling-plaoe." '?0 LIFE ON THE fS Til MLS. " Fact," murmured the Colonel, approvingly, with the so- lemnity of a man listening to a religious discourse. " Messieurs, nous allons boire a la sante de tout le monde. Yes, gentlemen, this is the distillation of that evanescent spirit of love, which drifts so erratically about the world. Thom, you old villain, fill these gentlemen's glasses again." Again the liquor, with a glow like that which sometimes hangs faint, yet ruddy, upon Italian clouds at sunset, trickled forth into the stinted glasses, and again Monsieur Crapolet resumed his discourse. It was to be the last drink, for the flask was empty ere the twelfth glass was quite full, and his remarks in consequence took a more melancholy cast. " Monsieur, je suis nn ours, un miserable ours ; you will forgive me that I am so dull and imsociable, for I am very txnhappy." In order that the reader may the better understand the full force, beauty, and effect of these last remarks of Mon- sieur Crapolet, it will be well for him to picture that gentle- man, as he then appeared in a posture that would have been recumbent, but for the protecting arms of Thom, with his lower jaw slightly inclined to droop, his eyes now roaming tenderly over the crowd, now cast upwards to Thom's vene- rable visage, with an expression equalled only in the last agonies of an expiring grimalkin. " Aye, gentlemen, there is no future for me but what is clouded by the remembrances of the past ; there is no peace but in the grave. Hold on, Thom, you scoundrel. Gentle- men, had I married Virginie — ou bien Mathilde — gently, Thom — I shouldn't have been the miserable outcast that you see before you. If it wasn't for Thom here — aye, good Thom — I should be alone in the world. But Thom — aye, yes, Thom — good Thom — kiss me, Thom ; one more drink a la sante de — Thom." L\V ROl'TE. 71 And with these words lingering upon his tongue, Monsieur Crapolet was got into the boat, and we at length started en route for the native side of Chagres, Disembarking there, we engaged a small boy, a lithe, long- limbed, straight-haired, Indian-looking little fellow, who came well recommended, to accompany us in the character of guide ; after which negotiation, we selected our places upon the camels, and were speedily rocking through the old paved street, and past the wretched bamboo huts upon whose front the religion of the country, expressed in the never-faihng motto of " poco tiempo," is written in unmis- takable hieroglyphics. IJXJL.IaA^^^ /an^ ^^^' 12 LIFE OS Tffi: ISTHMUS. CHAPTER VII. A TRAMP IN THE WOODS. LEAVING the filthy and ruinous hamlet in our rear, we crossed the brook which divides it from the dense forests and scrubby hills on the north. We cast a last glance at the sea upon our left hand, " spitting in the face of heaven," where its incomings were stayed by the brown old rocks of , San Lorenzo, and turned our heads resolutely towards the wilderness of verdure, whose secret chambers we were about to penetrate unbidden. Why not ? What good reason is there to hesitate ? Be- cause the shadows congregate there, are we on that account to imagine Irobgoblins and such dire personages as haunting the spot ? Or do we fear the known and possible dangers ! Nonsense ! Man goes " down to the sea in ships," and tra- verses the barren desert, and why should he shrink from the jungle of the dark forest? What is the earth, the whole of • it, but the play-ground or the vineyard which our Father has made for the labors and recreation of his children, and there is no bound set beyond which we may not pass. Even if \ the worst comes, and we are mortally injured by our daring, i are we not taken to our Father's house, where our wounds ^ shall be healed for ever ? Come on, then. On quitting the clean hills in the vicinity of the fort, our road at first lay through a dense portion of balata and other timber, where there was but little undergrowth. Here we made good trav<>Hiug. The soil was firm, and the passage A TRAMP IN THE WOODS. 73 amongst the trees of ample width to permit our animals to pass with- ease. The tall monarchs of the forest shook their evergreen leaves, amid which the wind and birds made music pleasantly above our heads, distilling thence a refresh- ing coolness ; while beneath our feet the broad flakes of sun- light which lay scattered in irregular little clusters, made the earth to resemble a rich carpet quaintly chequered with green and gold. It was quite inspiriting to journey through a country where nature wore so genial and vigorous a front. It is true that we were sometimes reminded of the inevitable lot of all things earthly, by coming suddenly upon the trunk of an old tree, which had fallen from extreme age, perhaps, years before, and which the great ants of the Tropics were carrying ofi" piecemeal, staggering along in Indian file under their load of rotten timber. And sometimes, too, but not often, a decayed and broken branch hung down directly across our pathway, forcing the camels very unwillingly from their straightforward path. If there is an animal to be admired for his undeviating perseverance in what he is pleased to consider his road of duty, it is certainly the camel. Taking it for granted that he is right, he follows up the balance of David Crockett's motto, and goes ahead with an unflinching exactitude. There is something majestic in the way in which he ignores obstacles ; which, be it noted never- theless, are at times more disastrous to his rider than to his own yielding, but thick-laid hide. Now it happened that after entering this wooded tract, some of us had dismounted, and were making our way on foot, and it further happened that Judge Sraithers and I found ourselves promenading together alongside of the camel which bore the Major and his wife. Behind him rode the disconso- late Monsieur Crapolet, with his faithful boy Thom, marching squire-like at his side. The Major being very tall and straight, 4 •74 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. had had one or two narrow escapes of his bair from the low- hanging branches beneath which we were travelHng. At length he dropped off and joined our pedestrian party. " I began to feel," said he, " as if my father's prediction was about to be realized, and tliat I should indeed live to be hung — but it would have been like Absalom — by the hair." As the ]\Iajor spoke, the melody of Monsieur Crapoiet's horn, on which instrument of tin that unhappy but tuneful " ours " had been performing some extra shakes for our edi- fication, suddenly ceased, and a fiercely uttered " sacre !" in its stead, drew our attention towards the performer. He was in rather a laughable predicament. It appeared that in the satisfaction which he had experienced in the execution of a remarkably successful shake, he had been led immediately afterwards into a triumphant flourish of the instrument itself, and that, reaching his arm at too great a length about his head, it had become entangled in the branches of a tree. Now the camel on which he rode, finding that his rider was in trouble, kn<:lt, according to custom in such cases, leaving our cjuondara musician hanging — not like Absalom, for, alas, Monsieur Crapolet, as already described, was bald — but in precisely the style in which you often see a sloth clinging, "by the day together, with one of his fore legs twisted round an over-hanging limb ; and with somewhat of the distin- guished grace with which the sloth falls, when the same limb is severely shaken, did our fellow-voyager tumble to the ground. One v/ould have thought, from his plump figure, that he would have rebounded at the touch like a ball of India-rubber ; but if the truth must be confessed, Monsieur Crapoiet's corporeal frame was at that moinent so thorough- ly saturated with Maraschino, "petit lait," and " le Parfait Amour," that he fell flat and heavy as a moist sponge. " Liquor is down," observed Colonel Allen, with what I A TRAMP IN THE WOODS. 1o believe is termed a liorse-laugli, '• now then, stranger, give us some of the low notes." " It's the old destiny," said the Major, " a man can't be generous and rise to any height of gaiety without suffering afterwards a corresponding relapse. Eve's generosity was the cause of Adam's fall." "The Major is certainly very clear-headed, and apropos with his biblical ideas," remarked Tom. " He goes right to the core of things," said the Colonel, with a pleasant smile, " My opinion is," said the Judge, " that something stronger than cider is at the bottom of this. I don't recollect to have ever met a walking demijohn capable of holding a greater quantity of the stuff." The unfortunate subject of these remarks was now upon his legs again, thanks to the kind attentions of Thorn, and able to answer for himself. " Gentlemen," said he, as he scramliled back upon his camel, " such is life ; to-day we are in the empyrean of pros- perity, to-morrow — " " Floored," suggested Colonel Allen. " Exactemeut ; as the English Lord 13oir-le-grog used to say when iu Paris." " Not l>olingbroke ?" quei-ieJ the Judge. '* Bolingbroke or Boir-le-grog, f'a m'est egal — as this famoas English lord used to say." " Excuse my laughing," interrupted Tom, " but really I could not help it, such a droll figure as you cut, sir, hanging to that tree, a martyr to the love of music." " A man with a horn too much," said the Colonel. "And then afterwards," continued Tom, "as you lay sprawling upon the ground ; oh, it was excellent. If Virginie could have seen you in that position, how she would have pitied von. poor girl." 76 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. " Young man," returned the discarded lover, with a mock serious, sentimental air, " you jiever said a truer thing. It is when in adverse circumstances, that woman loves man best. The great trouble with me has always been that I have been too fortunate in life. Now when I returned to France from Guiana, I had none of the fascinating, bilious hue of the Tropics. Parbleu, I was as fresh and rosy as if I had been leading a gay life among the salons and cafes of Paris. If I had come back, for instance, subject to the fever and ague, and required constant nursing, or showed in my debilitated frame the weakening effects of the Torrid zone, I think I can safely predict who would have been the husband of Virginie, or at all events Mathilde." " But you said that they were both married at the time." "True," said Monsieur Crapolet, "I forgot that." We were nearly out of the timber, as it appeared, and a few paces further on we came into a more open space, through which a stream from the mountains was flowng. We had been gradually ]-ising, as we got over the ground, and now found ourselves upon the brow of a hill, which fell off precipitously before us. It was evident that we had missed the ordinarily travelled patli, for we saw at a distance of more than half a mile below us on the river, a number of native women and children, engaged in washing and spread- ing clothes. I am uncertain M-hich would have made the pleasantest and most striking picture — those dark-skinned half-naked native women, scattered along the banks or squat- ting upon the rocks, in the very centre of the swift running stream, with tlae -sun-light falling aslant just over their heads, and flooding the opposite hill-side with a golden radi- ance, leaving their not ungraceful figures clearly defined in the rich deep shade ; engaged in an occupation, homely if you will, but made dignifi<^d and cliarmin£j in such a visible A TRAMP IN THE WOODS. 77 presence of scenic graiideiir — or ourselves pausing for a moment on the abrupt brow of the tall acclivity, with the great old trees waving above our heads ; our foreign animals and ap- pliances about us, an oriental grouping displayed amid the wild luxuriance of western nature. " The question now arises," remarked Judge Smithers, tak- ing a bird's-eye view of our isolated position, " as to what we are to do next ; so far, our young scapegrace of a guide seems to have had it all his own way." ■ •. . " There appears to be a down-hill course before us," said ^- the Colonel, " and the subscriber takes occasion to say that K he has never found any difficulty in that." ^ ' Our little imp of a guide wasnot at all disposed to own nJ up to any deficiency on his ,part, but kept pointing ^ earnestly to the other side of the ravine, and calling out, o\v " Bueno camino, bueno camino !" This little wretch was certainly the beau-ideal of a young vagabond, as he capered so grotesquely yet airily in our van, cutting wantonly with his long cane-knife at everything within reach, and bursting out every two or three minutes into some wild or jilaintive snatch of song. His costume, if not quite complete, was yet partially good in particulars wherein Thorn's was entirely deficient. It consisted of a bruised and broken hat of plaited straw, and a blue and white striped calico shirt, leaving his lower limbs at full liberty to perform any gymnastic flourishes which might occur to him. " Bueno camino, on the other side of the river, is it ?" said Colonel Allen, " but how in the dragon's name are we to get there, eh ?" The boy began capering along downward towards where we saw the native women at work, and beckoned us to follow. We were not long in coming to a kind of natural stair- case, down which our sure-footed beasts carried us with ease, 19 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. and arriving safely on the fii'm level bank of the stream, we decided upon a halt for lunch. It was a charming spot, cool, shady, with a clean sandy floor, and delicious water bubbling and flowing alongside. A delightful spot to be in, and easy of access on the one hand, but how were we ever to penetrate the bristling wilderness which frowned down upon us from the other ? Lunch over, it was proposed by Judge Smithers tliat two or three of us, accompanied by our experienced guide, should set out on a reconnoitring expedition in search of a conti- nuation of the road. For all the signs we then saw, it looked far more encouraging for Mr. Vale's " Anaconda line across the Isthmus," than for our less fleet and more cum- bersome offspring of the desert. So solemn and determined Avas the close arrayed front of forest verdure we were to break in upon, that we experienced a presentiment even before setting out, to the effect that we should have our labor for our pains ; and accordingly set our Moors to work in unpacking the camels and pitching the tents preparatory to the night's bivouac. The reconnoitring party consisted of Judge Smithers, Colonel Allen, and myself, for our model guide frisked about on his own hook, and I have no question that if the truth were known, we should find that the little villain had been all along diverting himself extremely with our bewilderment. He would plunge at times into the bushes on our right as we travelled down the river's bank, and writhe himself out again a short distance in advance of us, with a delighted glitter in his devilish, bright eyes, exclaiming, " Camino no es bueno," and again skipping on ahead. At length he seemed to have actually made a discovery, for he waited our approach with a satisfied air, pointing his skinny arm "owards the forest, and shouting, " bueno camino." And A TRAMP IN THE WOODS. 79 sure enough, there was a bit of a clearing where he stood, a kind of Spanish mule path — upon which we judged it as well upon the whole to enter. It led through rank grow- ing thickets, up steep piles, as it were, of slippery clay, and down suddenly into ugly-looking if not dangerous gullies. Notwithstanding the profusion of undergrowth, there was no scarcity of the larger trees, with branches and foliage so intersected as to shut out the sunshine as with an impenetrable veil. It seemed from the little puddles which we met at every few paces, that the clayey soil was of such toughness as to hold water for a great length of time, for no rain had fallen since we set out. However, we kept on, staggering, sliding, climbing over the ground, beneath this lowering canopy of green, more from a repugnance which we felt to turning back, than from any faint hope of the road improv- ing sufficiently to warrant our entering upon it with the camels. Our soi-disant guide had disappeared. There was some little amusement, of rather a doubtful kind nevertheless, to he derived from a contemplation of our several bespattered persons and rueful faces. As we picked our way along, stepping into the holes in the path to insure a footing, the muddy water would sometimes spirt upwards to our full height, plentifully baptizing us after the manner of this world. For once in his life, Colonel Allen, of Missouri, so far as his personal appearance went at all events^ was pretty much on a par with his associates. But even then, relentless fate was preparing a more thorough bap- tism, which should restore him to his quondam unenviable position. The Colonel was the leader of our party, and had now succeeded in scrambling, somewhat crab-like, to the very summit of a particularly slippery eminence. Without stop- ping to take breath, he commenced the descent, and disap- 80 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. peared from our sight as suddenly as if the earth had swallowed him. The next instant we heard a shout, far, far below us, on the other side, and the idea immediately occurred to us that the Colonel had lost his footing, and gone to the bottom by the run. And so it was ; for on our reaching the top, and looking down, there he was, sure enough, buried in a swamp, with his head out, puflBng and blowing like a struck poi'poise. His hat, which had never been one of Genin's best, floated in the slime near him, and he himself, facetious man, was beating the mud with his freed arms, and jerking his body upward, by the action of his legs, for all the world like a boy " treading water." I clung to a bush at my side, that I might laugh with the greater safety. " This is the end of your down-hill career," observed the Judge, parentally. " Stuck in the mud at last" " Confound your moralizing," roared Allen, with his mouth full of mud and water, " and bear a hand to help the sub- scriber out of this infernal swamp." " Bueno camino," sung out a little squeaking voice from a jungle near by, and our nice young guide presented himself, with an extra suppleness in his entire frame. " You half-grown cub of a she-dragon !" roared the Colonel again, — " once put the subscriber clear of this, and he'll fix your flint for you." Whether the boy fully understood the drift of the Colonel's threat, or not, I cannot say, but retiring within the shadow of the jungle, he presently reappeared with a stout limb of balata, which he threw across the swamp, or quick-7nud, suffering its extremity to rest upon the borders thereof, and again retreated, throwing his head back waggish- ly, and kicking up his bare heels like a young colt. It is, perhaps, needless for me to add that we never saw him again. .4 TRAMP IN THE WOODS. 81 Now the old proverb, tliat it is much easier to get into a scrape than to get out of one, found no exception in this par- ticular case ; and it was only by dint of such gymnastic evolutions as would be set down for caricaturing, should I endeavor to depict them, that the Colonel at last got himself astride of the log, and began edging his way to terra firma. Oh, what a laughable plight^ he was in, to be sure. There he stood, hatless and bootless ; his face, hair, and habili- ments all of a color, like a miller or coal-heaver, but of a shade which I should describe as a sort of cross between the two. " Boots gone ?" inquired Judge Smithers, with a sympa- thizing air. " Boots !" retorted the Colonel, holding out one leg like a darkey fiddler, and steadily regarding the foot thereof; "yes, and stockings too ; see here. Judge, just suppose the subscriber to be in the eel business, and to have come across a particu- larly hard set that wouldn't be skinned nohow, why he'd just take 'em along to one of these Spanish pantanas, and if that wouldn't do their business, set the aforesaid down for a raw sucker !" " Nonsense, Allen, you know that you were never the pro- prietor of a pair of stockings. Don't let yourself down to the meanness of endeavoring to attract symj^athy for the loss of property which you never possessed." " It's the way of the world. Judge, as you well know. Old Caleb Balderstone used to say, that a fire accounted for all deficiencies, actual and impossible ; and it's rather hard if such a vile, blasted mud-bath as the subscriber has just taken, shouldn't explain some. But never mind that, let's see how you are to get the aforesaid back to camp, since it's pretty certain that you two will have to take turns in carrying him ; as to his walking, that is out of the question." 4* 82 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. Here was the boot on the other leg with a vengeance ! There were portions of the road back, which lay over flinty ground, where it would not be easy for a person unaccus- tomed to the exercise to walk barefoot. On contemplating the prospect, with this new light before us, I must confess that I did not feel quite so strongly inclined to laugh. But the ever-fertile brain of Judge Smithers was equal to the emergency. *' Just fetch that stick along with you, Allen, and when we get to the bad places, you will take the position thereupon termed, in military parlance, ' as you Avere,' and we'll carry you into camp, the latest living personification of riding on a rail !" There was nothing for it, under the circumstances, but to retrace our steps. The sun was almost down, and deeper and darker shadows crouched in every thicket. As we travelled backward, Ave were several times in danger of miss- ing our way, though, thanks to the elastic surface of the clayey ground, we had more falls than bruises. When we finally got clear of the wood altogether, and entered the open valley, where was our camp and friends, it seemed like getting home again. We could not help feeling the calm, quiet, cloudless repose in which the spot seemed to He, as if it were a reflection of the clear bright sky, imparting to oui liarassed bosoms a portion of its own serenity. The large, round moon was squandering uj>on every thing within view, its treasures of silver light, giving to the dark woods, the climbing hills, and the sparkling river, a rich, mellow, yet half unreal loveliness. In a little dot, as it were, of ihis magnificent picture of still life, were seen the white tents and moving figures of our camp, with a curling wreath of smoke ascending from the rear of a broad, black curtain. A TRAMP IN THE WOODS. 83 A few momenls more, ;uk1 we were in the inidst of this picturesque group. Oh, such side-splitting shouts of wel- come and laughter, whon we unceremoniously spilt the mud- coated Colonel from his novel hand-barrow. 84 LIFE 0:S THE ISTHMUS. CHAPTER VIII. AFTER DINNER. DID the reader infer, from what lias been said, that Mon- sieur Crapolet was at all overcome by liquor, or trans- ported out of his ordinary state on this occasion ? If so, the writer must plead guilty to having led him into error, for J jiow distinctly recollect, that on our return to camp the chief of the culinary department was fulfilling his duties with the most scrupulous and clear-headed exactitude. Aiid in due time appeared Thom, his shiny black shoulders, chest, and arms, streaked with lines of rolling per- spiration, bearing various steaming and truly savory dishes for dinner. This Thom of ours had a way of rolling up the whites of his eyes, that was quite startling, and seen in the moonlight, curiously impressive. If it be true, as suggested by a recent philosophic writer, that a negro is " kind of cross between a monkey and a man," I shouldn't wonder if this Thom did feel at times some rather quaint twinges, at his peculiar way of introducing the two races. But he was a taciturn old fellow, who loved his solitary pipe better than anything else, and whenever I mentioned ray suspicions to him, he would cut me short by a most emphatic " Ah-wah !" uttered in a querulous, half angry tone, as much as to say " now don't bother me — get out !" Dinner was over, and such a dinner ! — A few days after- wards, when we were going up Ghagres river, and I saw a ■ \y AFTER DINNER. 85 great, awful, lazy, mud-brown alligator, lying out so patriarclially under the immensity of over-hanging foliage^ the uncouth impersonation, as it were, of the pestiferous vapors and noisome atmospheric ingredients of that fatiiV river, it seemed to me, rather a quaint fancy to be sure, but he did actually bring to mind, so stately and lonely as he was, the image of old David sitting between the gates, and inquiring for his progeny. " Have you met my young alli- gators ?" he seemed to say, and certain compunctious gnawings of the intestines made answer, " We have seen and eat them." But at any rate dinner was over, and " what was eat yvnn eat, would ft were worthier." We were lying about iu groups, smoking of course — everybody smokes on the Isthmus. It was a bright, balmy, mellow evening, sucli as is only seen within the Tropics. There was a peculiar soft- ness in the air that was delightfully grateful to our weary frames, bathing us, as it were, in a delicious vapor. It was one of those evenings when the gay greenery of earth, entwined and festooned in every possible shape of fantastic beauty though it be, is forgotten in the sublime appre- ciation of siderial beauty ; when every flitting of the sum- mer wind awakens harmonious responses in the topmost boughs of the tall trees ; when the round moon is a well remembered friend, speaking to us silently of early innocent pulsations ; when the veiy birds, penetrated by the j still loveliness of the hour, " murmur in their dreams of the } dim sweetness fitfully ;" when earth is remembered only as a • land of calm and holy joys, and heaven itself seems not so -; very far away ; when the drifting fleecy clouds seem but I the white-robed spirits of our young departed comrades, ^ beckoning us thitherward ; when we feel ourselves so trans- ] figured by the genius of the hour that we only wonder \ why our wings are wanting and we cannot follow them. 86 LIFE ON THE ISTHMUS. I remember having left our party for a moment's solitary stroll. Such times never fail to call up memories of all the old times that had any features in common, and now I was reviewing specially some of our nights upon the desert, where the same soft sky and the same pale moon was over us, but how diflferent the surroundings ; there nature was clad in such severe, almost bald simplicity ; there she wore such eternal calmness on her oriental front, as if there were no deeds within her placid bosom to hide from the pure gaze of those fair stars above ; and here were such turbulent and luxurious forms of beauty. How the whole earth throbbed and heaved with the fresh vigor of its vegetable life, and crowded out its progeny of green things into the upper air, like a great army. Its tangled and almost impenetrable front, yet wrought into shapes of strange beauty in all its thou- sand lines, the home and dwelling-place of serpents, wild beasts, and gay-plumaged birds, was typical in its massive headlong growth of that people who were bearing empire on their rough shoulders away from the sluggish patriarchal East. Musing somewhat in this wise, I had come suddenly upon a little open space where the moonhght was falling in between the branches in spray-like gushes. I threw myself upon the ground, and was startled at hearing a voice close behind me — it was Arthur Orrington, at prayer. He was praying that he might feel the proper solemnity of the act, and bring himself into a mood when he woidd feel it no blasphemy to ask communion with the Lord ; and he went on to pray that in the bitterness of self-denial, he might find strength to gain the mastery over a great sin that was growing upon him, that he might realize that a good and great deed was an object of real and eternal beauty, God's thought in action ; and even more AFTER DIi\NEll. 87 worthy to be loved and coveted than his thought mariitest in forms of beauty, and that he niiglit, in