Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2007 with funding from IVIicrosoft Corporation http://www.archive.org/details/courseofstudymanOOchicrich COURSE OF STUDY Manual Training Department OF THE Elementary Public Schools CHICAGO 1899 - 1900 PREPARED BY R. F. BEARDSLEY SUPERVISOR OF MANUAL TRAINING LUpCd HDUCATION DEPT- oc MANUAL TRAINING. " Manual Training is any form of constructive work that serves to develop the powers of the pupil through spontaneous and intelligent self-activity." — American Manual Training Association. THIS manual is designed as a guide to the teachers of con- structive work in the Chicago Elementary Schools. The models shown are such as have proved of value in developing, not alone manual skill, but such as will tend to lead children to inde- pendent thinking. Many forms of hand work are being used as a means of edu- cation. They have come to us under various titles. An explana- tion of the most important forms of constructive work which are used as Manual Training, will perhaps serve as an aid to the fur- ther investigation and to a clearer conception of the purposes for which the work is given. ^^The Russian Method'' of tool instruction consists in a series of exercises based upon and accompanied by an analysis of three things: the tools, the materials and the elements of construction. Pieces of wood or other material are made into joints and fittings, each one showing, in abstract form, some mechanical principle. The training for skill in tool practice, the intimate acquaint- ance with materials and the study of a limited number of elements of construction, are the basis and aim of this form of Manual Training. Objects of utility are seldom made. In ^^ Sloyd" a series of models is planned by the teacher, each model being a useful object (usually for the home), and each so designed that its execution introduces both a new tool and a new exercise in the use of tools already familiar to the pupil. Progres- sive training in tool practice and an incentive to careful work is thus attained. The models are usually made pleasing in form and proportion, and the exercises in tool work are arranged to give good physical training. The training of creative powers and the 54N05 opportunity for self expression are lacking in any form of Manual Training where the finished object or ''model" is presented for the pupil to copy. No name has been found to place in a distinct class that form of Manual Training which is being devised by the combined efforts of technical men and trained teachers. The definition at the head of this article expresses the idea. The best form of Manual Training is still in a formative stage and will be realized only when the training for skill, the copying of models and the technical features are subordinated to the out- working of the child's imaginative ideals. We must, however, keep ever before us the truism that accuracy and neatness are a part of our patrimony and our patriotism. No set of models can express the manual training idea, nor can any definite course of work be applicable to all of the diverse conditions to be met in one city or even in one school, conse- quently the courses shown are arranged merely as a base from which to work. Considering that the development of the child morally and mentally is the object of education, then the acquisi- tion of skill, which heretofore has been the dominant feature in manual training, will become incidental, and the exercise of the faculties in self-expression will become the basis for our teaching. Not that the training for skill is to be neglected, but it should not be fostered at the expense of the child's broad understanding of nature and nature's laws. A closer relation between the work in the shops and the work of the grade teacher is desired in order to give life to the work of the shops, which should be considered as school laboratories where the work of the class-room is to be more fully developed. The special teachers of manual training should keep in constant touch with the progress of the grades, and should, as far as possible, plan to have each lesson express in some way the work which is being carried on in the class-room. Play as a means of education has been shown to be most val- uable in our vacation schools and in the Kindergarten. The con- struction of apparatus for games and plays will be found to bring our work in closer touch witli the child's life. Several games shown among the models here presented will illustrate this idea. Apparatus for scientific experiment and for physical culture ■opens another field for the development of the inventive faculty. The making of useful objects, such as are needed in the homes of the children, has heretofore constituted the best form of Man- ual Training. There seems to exist the necessity for an improve- ment on this practice, which, even though it gives adequate training for skill and holds the interest of our pupils, fails to ally the work with the life which the children are leading in the school room. The steps necessary to a realization of that which, in our present stage of enlightenment, we would class as ideal manual training, , must be gradual in order that the training for skill of hand be not entirely lost to sight. Manual training should be made serviceable to the school room. To this end we have introduced into the course a number of articles dealing with simple apparatus for demonstration in sci- ence, in which the tasks for manual work are derived from the theoretic teaching of the schools. Our aim being to educate hand and eye and to use the overcoming of obstacles in forming will- power, we should refrain from using tasks which present no tech- nical difficulties, but should strive to make each object in the simplest possible way. The objects must be presented in regular sequence as regards tool practice, and must therefore be taken, as may seem in rather a random way, from physics, electricity, optics, or mechanics. Woodwork is sufficient for a two or three years course but is not diversified enough for constructive work throughout the grades. In consideration of this I would advise the use of many materials and would recommend that in planning exercises teachers make use of any material which would be most fitted to the work.* Clay, paper, paper pulp, cardboard, tin, wire, twine and many other mediums may be used alone or in combination with wood to produce the articles or objects desired. It should always be the aim of teachers to train the judgment of pupils to perceive and appreciate excellence in design, propor- tion, beauty, and above all, adaptability to the use intended. The directions for work herein given are not necessarily the ones which would be followed by a mechanic in constructing each *See Constructive Work. object, but are arranged with the idea in view of a progressive de- velopment of the child mentally and physically. These directions are to be carefully followed by teachers, and the tools therein specified are to be used. EACH LESSON IS. IN GENERAL. TO BE GIVEN IN THE FOLLOWING ORDER : First: Theoretical Instruct iofi as to necessary material and tools, and explanation of the nature and use of the particular exercise. Second : Drawing. Free-hand sketching of teacher's model, and constructive drawing made from this sketch. Third : Demonstration by the teacher, of the manner in which the object is to be made. The Theoretical Instruction is to comprise and include descriptions of various kinds of woods and trees, their uses, and the reasons for same. Structure, growth and properties ; the methods employed to prepare them for use, defects and their causes, as also the various means employed for preservation. Tools are to be accurately and minutely described, and the historical development and utility of each particular part is to be made clear. The nature, properties, origin and manufacture of the metals which compose the different implements, is to be indi- cated, with special reference to steel in its relation to iron, and how to harden it. The sharpening and care of edged tools is to he taught at the time of their introduction into the work. The Course in Drawing will be given as follows : In the case of objects made from one piece of thin wood, where but one view is required, no drawing is to be made. Pupils will under these conditions work from the teacher's model, and from a blackboard drawing. In the case of all objects requiring two or more views for their representation, pupils will in every case make a free-hand sketch from the teacher's model, showing the necessary views and dimensions, except where otherwise indicated in the directions. This sketch, after being approved by the teacher, is to serve as a basis for the finished working drawing. The pupil should be 7 taught that this class of drawing is a convenient and forcible means of thought expression. No drawings will be required of ''extras" or such objects as are to be made by those pupils who are in advance of the class. Blue prints will be furnished for this class of work. In the case of all regular or class-work the teacher is required to DEMONSTRATE, BEFORE THE ASSEMBLED CLASS, the methods tO be pursued in constructing the object under consideration. The successive steps in the execution of the exercise are to be indicated and demonstrated. This includes all operations nec- essary to the production of the finished article, the use of the various tools, the testing and marking of completed faces. Diffi- cult points in the exercise should be anticipated by the teacher, who will emphasize the means to be taken to avoid or overcome them, and cautions previously given regarding the holding and using of edge tools should be repeated. Individual demonstration is to be given upon anything but the pupil's work, which is to be entirely the product of his own skill. Hasty and careless work should be early detected and cor- rected. This being possible if it is required that each of the steps in the exercise be executed and submitted for inspection before further work is undertaken. Ornamentation in the form of background punching and chip-carving is introduced to develop artistic feeling and to culti- vate the inventive faculty. Therefore, in giving this work avoid as much as possible the copying of designs shown in this pam- phlet. These designs are intended merely as suggestions. Stimulate the pupils to plan their own designs, which when properly criticised and corrected by the teacher, will in most cases prove effective. As a means of awakening the interest of children we have found nothing better than to allow them to plan some form of ornamentation and execute it as an ''extra." Work which is not a pupil's best effort should never be dec- orated. Neither should ornamentation be used to hide defective workmanship. Sandpaper should be used only to clean the work. It is 8 never to be considered as a cutting tool, nor used to remove irreg- ularities in tool work. Putty is to be used ofily to cover the heads of nails or screws which are set or countersunk. The steel scrapers are for use on hollows and rounds. They may be classed as cutting tools. ACCIDENTS. ''Slight wounds are liable to occur in the course of the man- ual training work, and should be managed in accordance with the methods of modern aseptic surgery, not only for the immediate benefit of the one injured but for the educational value derived from extending a knowledge of such methods. Teachers are therefore urged to follow accurately the following instructions, which so far as they go may be considered to represent the meth- ods followed by the advanced surgery of the day." ''First all foreign material or dirt must be kept out of wounds. By the word dirt is meant anything capable of bearing such micro-organisms as produce pus or blood poisoning. Such organisms are constantly present in the air, and upon all sub- stances exposed to the air, such as handkerchiefs, tools, the skin, etc., also in water, except that which has been purified by recent boiling. The individual who takes charge of a wound should first carefully wash his hands, then wash the wound with recently boiled water, or with water which has been purified by passing through a germ-proof filter such as the Pasteur. In washing a wound never wash anything into it, but always away from it. Then with- out touching the fingers to the wound cover it with some of the purified (sterilized) gauze found among the supplies. The gauze should be thickly massed over the wound, care being taken to avoid having that portion of it which immediately covers the wound come in contact with the fingers, clothing, table, or any- thing else which has been exposed to the air. The gauze should then be fastened down over the wound by a bandage, or where convenient by a piece of adhesive plaster." "In removing the gauze from the jar, cut off what is wanted with a pair of clean scissors, and immediately close the jar, ex- posing the contents to the air as little as possible." '*When the bleeding is slight it serves to cleanse the wound partially and is not dangerous. The pressure from the bandage, which should never be excessive, will in the great majority of cases be found to be sufficient to control the bleeding. Cobwebs and other infected material should never be used to stop bleeding. When bleeding is excessive it can be controlled by tying a band- age around the limb involved, at some place where the tissues are soft, and tightening it if necessary by twisting it with a ruler." DIRECTIONS F-OR MANUAL TRAINING TEACHERS. During the school year of 1899 and 1900 teachers in the Manual Training Department will conduct the work in the shops in accordance with the following directions : 1. On all school days teachers are to be present in their shops from 8.30 A.M. to 12.00 M., and from i. 00 p.m. to 4.00 p.m., unless excused by the principal. Teachers of Manual Training may re- main in their shops until 5.00 p.m. on school days, and on Satur- days while the janitor is in the building, (see proceedings of the Board, Jan. 25, 1899, page 452). 2. Supplies (including lumber, sundries and tools), to the maximum amount of one hundred dollars ($100.00) will be fur- nished to each shop. The cost of each item of supplies is shown in the supply list. Teachers are cautioned to so regulate their orders that they may never be in danger of overdrawing. 3. Any changes in the course of study, or plans for the con- struction of apparatus not shown in this book are to be submitted to the Supervisor for approval before construction is begun. 4. {a) In order that a suitable exhibit may be made of the work in your shop, you will keep the entire product of one class in each exercise. You will thereby have a representative collection of work at the end of the year, and will have deprived each class of but one piece. {b') None of the articles made are to be distributed to pupils until they have been inspected and approved by the Supervisor of Manual Training. 5. The extras are to be made only by such pupils as have satisfactorily made the regular exercise and have finished the same ahead of the majority of the class. 6. Finish. Not more than two coats of shellac are to be ap- plied to any exercise, except where specifically directed in this course of study. 11 7- Pupils' work, either finished or unfinished, when left by them, is to be destroyed, and is never to be given to other pupils, because in that case they would be tempted to display as their own the work of others. 8. Tools are not to be loaned from the Manual Training shop either to teachers or other employes of the Board of Educa- tion ; carpenters in the employ of. the Board of Education are, however, to be allowed to use the grindstone at times when the Manual Training teacher is present, provided this use of the stone in no way interferes with or infringes the rights of the classes. 9. Tools are to be inspected by the pupils of each class at once upon their arrival, and a report made to the teacher as to defect or shortage. Pupils are required to replace all tools lost or broken by them, and also in cases where neglect to report leaves the fixing of responsibility open to dispute. (Teachers will be held accountable for all tools and apparatus under their charge.) TO. Sharp Tools. Extra plane-blades are furnished in suffi- cient quantity so that no pupil should be required to sharpen blades that have been dulled by others. Dulled or nicked plane- blades should be reported upon entrance of the class, and the blades kept for those to sharpen who have dulled them. 11. Each exercise is to be viade by the teacher in the presence of the assembled class. 12. A copy of your program is to be placed upon the black- board in your shop. 13. The order of several of our shops during the past year has not been ideal. Please see that your shop presents a neat and tidy appearance at all times. 14. Varnish, glue, stain, etc., are not to be used at the benches. (A respect for tools and equipment is one of the im- portant things to teach the boys.) 15. All absences of teachers are to be reported immediately by them to the Supervisor, together with an explanation of the cause. 16. A letter file is provided for use in your shop. This is to be hung in the shop, and in it you are to preserve all communications from this office, except such as may be of a personal nature, not relating to your school work, or such as are returnable to this office. 12 1 7- Wood handscrevvs are not to be used until properly lubricated with a mixture of oil and graphite. 1 8. (a) Gas is to be used for illuminatioti only, except by special permit signed by Supervisor of Manual Training. (^) Gas is to be used economically, and is to be turned off when not in actual use. {c) Pupils must never be allowed to light the gas ; this is to be done by the teacher. 19. Teachers are to call personally for salary checks. 20. Report blanks are furnished in order that a daily report of absence, or tardiness may be made by you to the principal of each school sending pupils to the Manual Training Shops. (A report is to be sent with every class.) 21. All drawings are to be preserved and arrangements are to be made by you for the display of the best ones both in the shop and class rooms. COURSES OF STUDY. For many classes these courses will be found too long; in some cases teachers will realize that repetition in certain processes is unnecessary and that, therefore, several models may be omitted. There are models in each course which would interest pupils in one part of the city, but would be of no value in another. Teachers are therefore directed to use care and judgment in following the outlined courses. The boys' ingenuity to plan and devise new forms of apparatus or ornamentation should be stimu- lated and encouraged. The choice of alternative exercises is to be made by the teacher. FOUR YEAR COURSE. Beginning in Fifth Grade. 1. Ruler No. i, p. 19. 2. Pencil Sharpener No. i, p. 18. 3. Twine Winder No. i, p. 16, or Paper Folder, p. 22. 4. Letter Opener No. i, p. 25, or Pen Holder, p. 43. 5. Round Mat, p. 31, or Bread Cutting Board, p. 35. 6. Mat No. I, p. 23, or Ring Toss, p. 24. 7. Box Kite (if in season) p. 34, or Pencil Box No. 4, p. 107. 8. Key Rack, p. 38, or Paper Knife, p. 41, or Envelope Case, p. 36. 9. Picture Frame, p. 71. 10. Coat Hanger, p. :^S. 11. Nail Box No. i, p. 49, or Match Safe No. 4, p. 28. 12. Whisk Broom Holder No. i, p. 51, or Comb and Brush Pocket No. 2, p. 55. 13. Book Rack No. i, p. 57, or Pedestal No. 2, p. 133. 14. Bracket Shelf, p. 59, or Bootjack, p. 73. 15. Tipcat and Bat, p. 63, or Shinny-stick and Block, p. 39. 16. Window Box (For the School, not to be given to the pupil), p. 131. 17. Stamp Box, p. 69, or Book Rack No. 2, p. 58. 14 1 8. Towel Roller, p. 91. 19. Sled, p. 98 or 99, or Aquarium, p. 84, or Drawing . Board, p. 78. 20. Pen Tray, p. 100, or Nature-study Kit, p. 131. 21. Picture Frame, p. 71, or Snow Shovel, p. 118. 22. Inlaid Hat Rack, p. 8;^, or Umbrella Stand, p. 127. 23. Sugar Scoop, p. no, or Match Safe No. 5, p. 29. 24. Glove Box, p. Ill, or Book-binding Outfit.* 25. As a final exercise allow each pupil to select some model not previously made. THREE YEAR COURSE. Beginning in Sixth Grade. 1. Ruler No. i, p. 19. 2. Pencil Sharpener No. i, p. 18. 3. Twine Winder No. i, p. 16, or Paper Folder, p. 22. 4. Round Mat, p. 31, or Bread Cutting Board, p. 35. 5. Mat No. I, p. 23, or Ring Toss, p. 24. 6. Coat Hanger, p. ;^S. 7. Nail Box No. i, p. 49, or Pencil Box No. 4, p. 28. 8. Picture Frame (For the School, not to be given to the pupil), p. 71. 9. Book Rack No. i, p. 57, or Waste Paper Basket, p. 112 e/ al. CO. Salt Box No. 2, p. 75, or Tipcat and Bat, p. 63. 11. Whisk Broom Holder No. 2, p. 51, or Stamp Box, p. 69. 12. Towel Roller, p. 91. 13. Sled, p. 98 or 99, or Drawing Board, p. 78. 14. Pen Tray, p. 100, or Nature-study Kit, p. 131. 15. Knife Box, p. 105, or Inlaid Hat Rack, p. 87,. 16. Sugar Scoop, p. no, or Book-binding Outfit,* or Pedestal No. I, p. 56. 17. As a final exercise allow the class to select some one of the models not previously made. * See chapter on Book Mending. IT) TWO YEAR COURSE. Beginning in Seventh Grade. 1. Ruler No. 2, p. 19. 2. Mat No. I, p. 23, or Bread Cutting Board, p. 35. 3. Coat Hanger, p. 38, or Pen Holder, p. 43. 4. Envelope Case, p. 36, or Foot Stool No. i, p. 102. 5. Stamp Box, p. 69, or Salt Box No. i, p. 74, or Book Rack No. 2, p. 58. 6. Picture Frame, p. 71, or Knife Box, p. 105. 7. Towel Roller, p. 91, or Nature-study Kit, p. 131. 8. Sled, p. 98 or 99, or Aquarium, p. 84, or Drawing Board, p. 78. 9. Pen Tray, p. 100, or Book-binding Outfit.* 10. Selected by the teacher, according to the ability of the individual. ONE YEAR COURSE. Beginning in Eighth Grade. 1. Ruler No. 2, p. 19. 2. Mat No. I, p. 23, or Bread Cutting Board, p. 35. 3. Envelope Case, p. 36, or Nail Box No. i, p. 49. 4. Book Rack No. i (oak), p. 57, or Bracket Shelf, p. 59. 5. Picture Frame (For the School, not to be given to the pupil), p. 71. 6. Knife Box, p. 105. or Stamp Box, p. 69, or Whisk Broom Holder No. 2, p. 51, or Drawing Board, p. 78. 7. Selected by the teacher, according to the ability of the individual. See chapter on Book Mending. IG PLANT LHBEL No. J PLANT LABEL Na2. -:'lr^ ft \i ^"^M ilu TWINE WINDEN No. 2. £v/tHS JJCS TWINE "WINDER No. 1 % ic. T 7 ^i' ^ci ^1 ^^S^_/roj^^J^ PLANT LABEL, No. i or No. 2. Prepare stock ^" or i^e" x 7", s. 2 s., Bass. One edge is to be made straight and smooth by the teacher. Pupils will square one end with knife (cross whittling). To be tested with trysquare. Measure length and square around with knife. Whittle to knife line and test with trysquare. Gauge width and cut to line. (Straight whittling.) Measure and mark small end with pencil and rule. Whittle to oblique lines. (Oblique whittling.) Clean all over with No. O sandpaper on a block. No Drawing. TWINE WINDER No. i. Prepare stock h" x 4" x 5", Basswood (grain running long way), with tried edge. I. Whittle one end square to the tried edge (holding piece in hand and cutting straight across). 17 2. Measure length (4}4") from this finished end and square across with knife line. 3. Whittle this end square to tried edge. 4. Measure off widths (3^") and whittle to line. (Be careful to note direction of grain and whittle accordingly.) 5. Mark the outline as per drawing. 6. Start cutting out the ends, working down in center until reaching straight line at bottom, then cut the curves, working from bottom up, thus working with the grain. 7. To cut out curves in sides first cut V in center to prevent splitting, then work from both ends toward the center. 8. Finish all over with No. O sandpaper. No shellac or varnish used. TWINE WINDER No. 2. Stock, /a" or i%" x 4}^" x 5", s. 2 s., Bass. 1. Draw a pencil line through center of board in direction of grain. 2. Draw line at right angles to above at its center. 3. Measure and mark curves. 4. Saw nearly to lines with coping-saw. 5. Finish with half-round file and sandpaper. No Drawing. IS PENCIL ^mnPENEHNai. PENCIL ^HARPENEFi No2. PENCIL ^HAHPENEn No.3. i' Bit. m.i /? WE^»^s Urs. PENCIL SHARPENERS. II. ■Stock, )4" or ,''«" X 2" X 5", s. 2 s., Bass, prepared by teacher. One edge to be made straight and smooth by teacher. Square one end. (Cross-whittling.) Measure length and square that end. Gauge width and cut to line. (Straight-whittling.) Mark curve with drawing compass. Cut to curve with knife. (Curve-whittling.) Measure and mark small end with pencil and rule. Cut to oblique lines. (Oblique-whittling.) Locate and bore hole. Give pupil a small piece of No. O sandpaper from which he will cut the disk or square to be glued on. (Clean all over with No. O sandpaper on block before gluing.) Use wooden hand- screw and a piece of waste wood in gluing on sandpaper. No Drawing. m HULEH No. J. J 2 3 ^ J 6 i3^' HULEH Mo. 8. 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i 1 1 1 1 1 1 \ 1 1 1 1 1 Tiy I. ^ J P ,3 ^ A •4 i ^ 1 iiin 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 s 1 ^ S q y y / i\ ?^ 1 7""[i j.._Q /? Wi:»^/'/fs.i^^^- RULER No. I. Stock, i%" X i)^" X 7^", s. 2 s., Bass, prepared by teacher. 1. Plane working edge. 2. Square line across face about y^" from end. 3. Saw off with backsaw, being careful that inside edge of saw is at center of line. 4. Measure length and square line across face. 5. Same as 3. 6. Measure width at both ends and draw line between these points. 7. Plane to width. 8. Sandpaper clean. 9. For lines parallel to edge, measure distance at each end and draw lines with sharp pencil. For cross lines, measure carefully and draw lines using pencil and trysquare. RULER No. 2. Stock, i'' X i>^" X i2>^", Rough Pine. 1. Plane working face and working edge. 2. Gauge the parallel lines shown on drawing %" apart. 3. If gauge lines are defective, replane working face and gauge again. 20 Beginning about }^" from end mark the lines for inches, using trysquare and knife. Mark the half inch divisions. Mark the quarter inch divisions. If all is correct, plane the rough edge to first gauge line. Gauge the thickness on edges and plane the reverse side to these lines. Saw to length, number with pencil and clean with sandpaper. The lines and divisions may be remarked with a sharp pencil before the ruler is shellaced. Note. — The eighth inch divisions should only be attempted by very skillful pupils. 21 MATCH SCmTCHEH. \flwrMn\nrt., BmCKET ^HELF. COHNEH BHACKET 6' Ma.U two b,'0^iitt» One e' uricfe 0/16 af^' utidt,. MATCH SCRATCHER. Stock, }i" or h" X 4" x 5", s. 2 s., Bass. Draw center line and lay off curves and diagonal top lines. Cut to curves and straight lines with knife. Glue on a square piece of No. O sandpaper. Cut to curve when dry. Bore hole. Finish with sandpaper on block. No Drawing. BRACKET SHELF. Stock for Top, h" x 6}^" x 3^", s. 2 s., Bass. Stock for Brace, h" x 3^" x 5 ", s. 2 s., Bass. Stock for Back, h" x 6^" x 5 ", s. 2 s., Bass. Make each part a separate exercise. Use pencil, rule, compass, coping-saw and half-round file. When the three parts are correctly finished and cleaned with sandpaper, fasten back and brace together by means of glue and brads, having pupils locate and start the brads before applying the glue. Give particular directions to apply glue very sparingly and have all superfluous glue cleaned off before it hardens. Locate and start brads in top and fasten with glue to back and brace. No Drawing. CORNER BRACKET. Stock for Top, X 7" X 7' S. 2 S. Bass. Stock for Braces, h" x 7" x 9", s. 2 s., Bass. Same steps, tools and directions as for Bracket Shelf. No Drawing. PAPEB FOLDER. il> \ s'J "ISO p i^ L ' '" kr 3 CLOTHED PIN. a JiL E. GciQc Ucs. •23 MAT No. Stock, i" X 8" X 8", Rough Pine. First have each pupil saw off a piece 8" long, then plane and finish according to directions. A set of models such as are shown on page 66 for the sandpaper block are a great help in directing this work if it is used as a first planing exercise or if given as an extra. This method of showing processes is not to be carried be- yond the first year's work. A blue print of the following directions may be placed before the pupil, or they may be printed on the blackboard. 1. Plane the working /<3t^^ and mark it X. 2. Plane the working edge and mark it II. 3. Chamfer a corner [ask teacher which one.] 24 4. Plane this end square with working /^fMTt.Couct\i%", s. 2 s., Bass. 1. Plane edge and end square, using shooting- board. 2. Mark five inch square, with knife-lines. 3. Lay off curves, and saw with coping-saw. 4. Finish to lines with knife. 5. Design a background for punching, 6. Lay off design, cut lines with knife, and clean before punching. No Drawing. LETTEB OPEN EH No. /. /i W Evf>Na.Dc&. ENVELOPE OPENER No. i. Stock, i=*6" X i}{" X 7/4", s. 2 s., Bass. 1. Draw center line and lay off curves at each end with pencil and compass. 2. Mark design for chip-carving as shown. 3. Carve handle. 4. Whittle to lines and form the blade with knife. 5. Sandpaper to clean. No Drawing. 26 TOOTH BFIU2H RACK Ev»na Bel yj.n H,»>,ev Se^. P/N CUSHION AND 2CI520f(S mCH. EvMNi Del H J Gre«« Bes. 27 MATCH ^RFE No. I ■^ ■V-..U--"' ^-^¥ H 54.- ^yiitra UcWy m ^r.fiatf, r^f.g, MATCH 2RFE no.Z i^u/^ . n,, 28 * MATCH BOX No.S. Tkt A.cit,\t" in, cliutr*tXtf telle iiartA titrou^U tht. iiotii wkiic in t At' roug fv, uUc1\ i/tente iejinisheti Usiitcf '/ictc at a. iaaia Co meaaufC J norv. AWF » n./ Wta V U&u (tj( Btaif tiCft 29 MATCH SAFE No. 2. Stock, ji" Whitewood and }i" Bass. The directions given for Salt Box No. i will apply to this ex- ercise. Decorate by background punching, chip-carving or by inlaying with colored veneer. Detail Drawing. MATCH BOX No. 3. Stock, (several pieces of either hard or soft wood may be used, built up either vertically, horizontally or radially.) The teacher will give such directions as are necessary to per- form the work in accordance with the number and shape of pieces used. Detail Drawing. MRTCH ^AFE no. 6 ~if:n,_,_ ' To he. huilt u/s e/ cliJfe.t^taL ' ^ineU 0/ urood. r, Yfifriiiint, nuigmr, 30 MATCH 2RFE No. 6. (^ritffa lit ^I'^^-^W-^IH ^— /i-— ^^ /\^ <^,fifl.gf, flpa, ROUND MAT. The most suitable form of knife for cardboard work and for outlining in punching work is shown above. It is called a chip- carving knife and has but one cutting edge, the slanting end. 31 HOUND M/iT. (1 VV Trflrrfi <7-(.i ROUND MAT. (An exercise in planing and designing.) Stock, i" X 8" X 8" Rough Pine. 1. Plane the piece of rough lumber to the size %" x 6" x 6", as directed for the Bracket Shelf on pages 59 to 61. 2. Find center of board by drawing the diagonals of square. 3. Mark curves with compass and construct design. 4. Saw, with small turning- saw, nearly to outer curve and finish with flat file (draw filing.) 5. Suggest that the pupils plan a design to ornament the mat, such as a leaf, a star, or a trefoil. Allow them to make sketches on paper, showing their ideas, before transfer- ring the design to the wood. Cut with the knife a deep line around the inner circle and also around the design, then stamp the background with a carver's punch. The more advanced pupils may profitably vary the shape of the mat, using their own designs. This class of orna- mentation, called ''diaper carving," is very effective, and 32 is applicable to almost every kind of woodwork. Carv- ing punches can be made by filing the head of a large nail with a triangular file. (Particular attention should be given to even punching and to correct handling of the hammer.) 6. Clean with No. O sandpaper. No Drawing. BLOTTER. Stock, A" X 31^" X 5%", s. 2 s., Bass, and i" length of ^" Dowel-rod. i. Plane one edge and one end, testing with trysquare. 2. Gauge and plane width. 3. Measure and mark length with knife and plane to knife line. 4. Mark border line with gauge and knife. 5. Draw a design with pencil and follow with knife. Punch background. (The ornament is to be original with the pupil.) 6. Round and smooth the end of the handle with knife. Drill and countersink hole, and screw together. (A blotter is to be glued to the base.) Note. — The smoothing plane is to be used in this exercise. Pupils are to be taught to take apart and put together and to whet the plane blades. The grinding will be done by the teacher. The design shown for ornamentation is only suggestive, as are nearly all those shown hereafter. Teachers will vary the designs as seems best, and where possible make use of the ideas of the child- ren. Paper templates may be used for duplication in ornamental designs. No Drawing. PEN RACK No. i. Stock, T^e" X 2^" X 10", s. 2 s., Bass. 1. Plane edges parallel and to required width. 2. Saw off a piece 6^" long and gauge center line. 3. Point ends with knife ; lay off design and carve. 4. Mark a circle on the extra piece and plane ends to proper distance from curve and square with edges. 5. -Drill a small hole near edge of the circle, insert blade of coping-saw, and cut to line. Finish with half-round file and saw apart with back-saw. 6. Clean, and fasten together with glue and brads. No Drawing. 33 PEN H^CK. /? WFvy^A/s DrL. PEN mCK No.2. 4' H* Al E.Gaqt Dei. BOX Kite. ^ O/ III ? /-M^ I^J j^ /7i — /7 /! /?>/■£ y/9A^ -P.c£ /?. 7*. 7t'o^)i3o» i^es. BOX KITE. Do not fasten the cross sticks of the box kite, but leave them so that by removing them the kite may be rolled into a compact bundle. Twine for making the kite and bridle, as shown, will be furnished. No twine for flying the kite is to be supplied. No Drawing. pAMS. >^.£.G/\0£- 35 BREHD CUTTING BORHD. 1^' 4 r -3f I I ^ \ ■3f- \fi\(i^wn S'^" J: G.Wtnc/teti JJes BREAD CUTTING BOARD. Stock, i" X 8" X 15", Rough Pine. For directions see Mat No. i on page 23 and Shelf Models on page 59- No Drawing. FANS. These fans are to be made of ji" basswood, fastened into handles of oak about yi" square. The handles are slotted to re- •ceive the fans. This exercise gives opportunity for design in shape and ornamentation which may be carved, stamped or colored. 36 ENVELOPE CH^E. J L Y^/^ "< Busc \^\/ 5cu/i Full ^t^t.. M IV r...^ n,L. ENVELOPE CASE. Stock, h" Basswood, or i^" Whitewood. An exercise in the use of the smoothing-plane on edges and ends. Also an exercise in chip-carving. 1. Plane pieces to size, using the shooting-board. 2. Carve the base as shown, and ornament the front panel as desired. (An opportunity is here given for very great freedom of expression as the ornamentation may be either chip-carving, diaper carving, low relief, color work or pyrography.) 3. Clean and fasten together with glue and brads, locating the brads by means of a very light gauge line, 3^2" from edge^ and measuring the distances apart. 4. Finish with sandpaper and shellac. Drawing as shown. Note. — Should the Envelope Case be selected as a class exercise the front panel is to be decorated with an original design by the pupil. Any of the methods mentioned in Direction 2 may be used in its execution. PUZZLE BLOCKS. 37 r vf /J W £v/^" X 81^" Whitewood, and iV x 2}^" x 6>^" Cherry. 1. Plane one edge, gauge width and center line (whitewood). 2. Plane to width. 3. Mark curves at ends and square the shoulders with knife lines on both face and edge. 4. Saw curves with turning-saw and saw shoulders with back-saw. 5. Pare vertically with chisel, taking light cuts to lines. Test with try-square. 6. Finish with file, but do not allow a file to be used unless the work has been well done with a sharp chisel. 7. Clean the face with smoothing-plane. 8. Make front plate using turning-saw and file for curves. 9. Carve as shown. JO. Glue in place and locate position of hooks. 39 11. Clean and finish with shellac. 12. Screw the hooks in place. Note. — Particular care should be used in gluing that the superfluous glue, which is pressed out from between the pieces, is at once removed, and that the clamps are so adjusted as not to mar the work. No Drawing. COAT HANGER. 6j4'\ Rough Pine. Stock, i" X 4" X Plane all over to ]/s" x 3;^" x 16". Mark curves on ends with compass. Mark curves on sides free-hand or with template which may- be made of thin basswood. Saw nearly to curves with turning-saw and finish with spokeshave. Finish with sandpaper, but do not use a file. 6. Fit with large screw hook to serve as a hanger. 7. Shellac. Note. — This is principally an exercise in modeling with the spokeshave, therefore all irregularities which can be felt with the hand, are to be removed with that tool. Sandpaper is to be used on/y for cleaning. No Drawing. 5- CHIMNEY 2TICK AND BLOCK. 1 ^ x/'Secr.o ^CTwa ^gSSmmmiummim^ ^^f- ->i- /? WiTi'/i/vs H/L GPDrutcA Jr. Dta. 40 INK 2TRND. /IWfltttHtnfi, fIfMgn of Prate Tft, PHOTO GRRPH PRAM INK STAND No. 2. Stock, ^" Whitewood or y^" Gum and y^" Maple or ^q" Cherry. An exercise in the use of the chisel and plane and in chip- carving. The thin top piece may be built up from strips of various colors. No Drawing. PHOTOGRAPH FRAME. Stock, h" Bass or Cherry. Use compass, rule, file and knife or coping-saw. No Drawing. 41 PAPER KNIFE 7 Sca^< FuK 3^", s. 2 s., Cherry. 1. Plane to required width. 2. Draw center line lightly with pencil. 3. Lay off curves at ends and at juncture of handle and blade. 4. Cut outline with coping-saw and smooth with file. 5. Form blade with knife, spokeshave and file, working to a center line on the edge. 6. Mark design in handle and carve. 7. Clean thoroughly and finish with three very thin coats of • shellac. PAPER KNIFE No. 2. Stock, same as above. Directions same as for Paper Knife No. 1. No Drawings. 42 P/iPEB KNIFE '^ Ai 'ji»^". 2. Mark circles at ends and bore hole for peg. 3. Cut off i)^" and form peg to tightly fit hole except at outer end where it should be slightly smaller to admit pen. 4. Glue in peg. 5. Whittle to shape. No Drawing. SHOPPING LIST. Designed to hold cards i>^" x 2^", which can be cut from heavy paper or thick folding board, one box to be used for blank 45 \i'r- '^' 15 4^tif i"^^Ft"it+^V- *\ 0-D6 ^Sioe. S^CK SHOPPING LIST. cards, the other for shopping memoranda. If made from card- board the boxes could have verses written on: First Box: Don't forget what you want down town, But take the pencil and write it down. Second Box: Put these cards in any old nook, Or empty space in your pocket book. Stock, White Holly, ys" thick for back, and iV thick for boxes. Make the back as shown, drawing the elliptical curves free 46 hand. Saw with coping-saw and smooth with file; bore hole for hanging; carve and fit with small brass screw hook for pencil. Lay off the boxes as shown, measuring for tenons at each end and drawing one line of all the tenons without removing rule. Cut pieces apart and form tenons on each piece with chisel. Make and fit bottoms to go inside of boxes. Clean all pieces with No. OO sandpaper, glue boxes together and fasten with glue to back. A WHISTLE. DxsjiiilofA.E.OAac Stock, Pine, ^" x ^" x 4^", s. 2 s., and a short length of }4" dowel rod. Plane the stick to ^" square. Whittle to the length shown in the drawing. Bore the j^" hole about 31^" deep. Cut off a piece of the dowel rod i}(" long. Plane a flat side on this plug and glue it into the hole you have bored. When the glue is dry whittle the notch and the bevel. 47 SKETCHING ER^EL H tT Qree)x Ilea- ER5EL No. 2. Alt /liecefi jf" square. ' h- -Ai^ if w — L L-i J A.W Ev/./ CA5EL CONYNE HITl K ^ rX^ ^..-^^ fi \ H £ _ r 3 - A ^ . 1 \ 5t 1— i //ttini Slices SliCulct ill nciltfl €. Id g/Hfci ic ^ >i i.Jxt t/xS I I (B) at.cia and Ju,^t/.tr s,cu-ecl ij, fiieeei of <:n,A.sUtd — \ Bvtr- entire jc,itt(ri^4) rts>"'*» ^^S aAcu, jaciifioi t/ J ///{< //.i 3 1 ^ >«fGG; ZQ' ace cciri'td wilA UulU eUfk, lift ./ A/vc//e Uiii lJ d.ifanct //•««. /,/€ ZX. }C rtur /■ mna 4 (^ T. flt^mafift flt/i JIttt itUwiO. Ti-f, •$ hntt .» 3otA aide* mus t jjt e ' '^ Jkg^M JIm-^ ^.L.DlCHIflSOJi.Bti. 54 I 2 «^'«- "r« 11,4 '^^ NO] -.f 5; I *i>S x[^r 1 ■ ~ ry^ IJA < ^ -w t^ a IT ... 41^ ^.L U fi. * — \ — -^ ~^ -J 1 s 1 1 <*." ^^ S F .'J tn ^' = >< 3. S htN S,>>M ^d ■w «. 1 A^ 1 -^1:^ St. V ^ .'^ s :; (^ "ic ^.. /;.. -fi' Sti fJuiLm ^tatf»tr BOOK RACK No. i. Stock, J4" X 51^" X 30", s. 2 s., Pine. Plane to width, saving the long strip from edge for making the moulding. Plane ends square. Gauge center line and measure 2^" from ends which will give center for curves. Mark curves and saw off. Finish curves with chisel and file. (See Note.) Mark design as shown and cut the outline with knife. Shellac and then stamp background and cut stars with ^" chisel. Make base by planing the curved ends. Stamp edges. Make moulding; glue and nail together and finish with shellac. NoTK. — The filing should be done in the direction of the curve and not at right angles to the face of board. Drawing as shown, omitting shading. 58 BOOK fl/iCK No2. ^r 1 fl,W,Brtiaa lirt R ffrci^f Utfittntr, BOOK RACK No. 2. Stock, Oak or other Hardwood. The directions for this are practically the same as for Book Rack No. I. • Drawing as shown. BunK a/icH NO. 3. ^jci i' -#'^ 7StfM BRACKET 3 HELP. ^caU Naifjij dWl'Yff^i UlA, BRACKET SHELF. Stock, i" X 7" X 20" rough Pine, and ^" x 3^" x 6^", s. 2 s., Pine. First have pupils saw off apiece 7" long, then plane and finish the top of shelf according to directions. A set of models, such as are shown on the following page, are a great help in directing this work if it is used as a first planing exercise or if given as an extra. This method of showing processes is not to be carried beyond the first year's work. The shelf may be made with the chamfered edge of the top underneath instead of as in the drawing. A blue print of the following directions may be placed before the pupil. 1. Plane the wov'kmg face and mark it X. 2. Plane the working edge and mark it II. 3. Chamfer a corner [ask teacher which one.] 4. Plane this end square with \^oxY\wgface and working edge. 5. Measure the length from this planed end. 6. Square across with knife-line. 7. Saw off end '^wiX. beyond the knife-line. 8. Chamfer a corner opposite tried edge and plane this end to knife-line. 9. Gauge the loidth. 10. Plane the rough edge to gauge-line. 11. Crauge the tJiickness on edges and ends. 12. Plane the roiigJi face to gauge-lines. General Drawing. CO SHELF MODELS hsdFBAKE sheet mj. IE Hoc "f , 1 1- i f 1 ^r !5^77^A«./< T'Ais ffante. for> nxoclet» No'a / to € inciu*it>t~ ie tutet II /I is irx fAcSoyyX a h^/Jrrtffi UtL 7- U/^.,A^ 77>..^...^ SHELF MODELS and FHRME ^heet no. 2 Use rousk pieces /3' X 7' X J " /'inc Ins ert f dcwc h /f /o„j , h Lotlc.». of euch /ucco 1. 2. rW>« A n,art 3. CUn,f.r «««. Mow,(p.ni L.Vg — li li /. WonAing fa.ee and .narVx- ¥^^"-^ 2. Tried oruior/,nig 3. C/iamte,' corner- -4 Plane enU Stuart ^. Mcua.w,. t. n^l/i J,-v. ir. oJipoSLte. wc'hina w.lAjac^ cL„ci t A.s ptanticl eud Ufo,-K^r,y edge. edje and niafh opfia edge 6. Squaft. aci'oas ivtl/v « /r.,.J' /'»c and SO.U, Off oni,encU /--.c^ ouisiric »/ /|.M/e line s. 7 9. . JO. a J — 6 ^ y U J2. — S — ^ ■ — B — — u tr"7^ /O. Plane routf/l //. Gau^C t/iicl)ncsS 12 Plant. lAc 9. Gauge widtU edae t, gauge (}') ca edges and mo -^ A /ace t onfaclQFn.n^ t /ne. ^^\nds. qaujel.neS ■/. Saurcd off i ouCstde of ///•!/« /lie. 8. Clx^infreti-ittr- ofi/ltsUt , » , i uortiinq edge and filaneto u/o ,'A >nj edge) „, , . r ', i ,, hnife Une.(.Sa,ual'e wilk The aLo^e di^ecliont are to he xurUUn taee and wo,'l,ing edge,.) u,Uh in/l «/»o» Me modeU 61 SHELF MODELS and FB/IME sheet m. 3. p' /3. ■\/^ ^ /J-. ^ f /J. MeuSur-c 2'eack waif Jroin. luro u.ppef corite.t-2 and Coii- ttect WLt/i A"'tc Itni. About ^•outStde /,n,/e Une d.'aur l/ltncil /i,.e Jon saufinq. JJj'aur A'life /I'le en i^/icsiie Side a /so. /4 ^aur off cor-ntfa tc /^. Gauge light lif 4' "■'^'^'"^ 1^- (0 Pittne eimm/treci etfgtt ieii^ ptncil itne andti/ajtc edges and ends for cnatn lejT'oFinu eiaeej f-ii' ir-acifctr ' ' ' ' .(Plants ftfinj. Clifi otj ctfntfs and nai la,- On tofter-fiiti, fiune carejudy in cUreo- hnife (me.. cLireationof *-.> A A. For Era.clie.t3. Finish /iitce /Of iira.c/ieC3 same, as Jor hhetj NosltolZ ^ 6i'-^ i'x32xGs".I.rU. edge, i/tc /J aiicT natta. On Boncr:i4\t'. chainttredidr'a.wa. hnifi.hnt choal ha.timajja.Cfol* iUi. ioarcl and / fram eaofu end. On edge drau/ ,-i-net* t»/a €lraiir MCfieii , ^"'% k^'/rer, tatk end. far naita.Marfi piacoj for natts (ioi/i/an). xngie. uia e'uitk the qrainllioth. edges) for IjLfiiiife. c/iamferiiig. (inc. Plane i^it/v die gram to /intje liiie.»-- E. Plane cAainPers in direetien oy '•»-' and conipiet*. the iractiet • augt the '/iftostte Corner. brOLclitti. 5• _t_ \ «n .1? * 1 <^ V ^«^ •^'*« 3 ^ 1^ VI , « ^ 00 .. t*. Lj^ ^ d c ■c •?> < > 1 1 L .. \ 1 i 1 03 Tipcat is a game known and enjoyed by nearly all city boys. The implements for playing are usually made by the boys them- selves, and make very appropriate whittling exercises. THE CAT. Stock, i}(" X i^" Gumwood. A whittling exercise. 1. Plane to i" square by 4%" long. 2. Square around and true the ends with the knife as shown. Insist that both ends be alike and accurately made. This being a toy for the boys games, he is likely to hurry and slight his work ; the tendency is to be restrained. No Drawing. THE BAT. Stock, ^" Pine or Maple. If made of pine, only the knife, rule and pencil are required. Maple would require the use of the spokeshave and turning-saw. Let the pupils sketch the outline on the side of the board, locating the points **a" and "b" by measurement. The curves should be sketched free-hand. Whittle out the shape, as shown in the mechanical drawing, before attempting to round the under 64 side. (Note the method used to show all details of the shape of this object in one drawing by means of sections "&' and ''d"). No Drawing. TIPCAT BAT. THE GAME OF '^ TIPCAT" OR ''PEG." The English game of ''Tipcat " is played as follows: A circle, about two feet in diameter is drawn, also a straight line at about twelve feet from the circle. The players draw lots for first turn with the cat. The first player then stands on the line and tosses the cat into or at the circle, the other players standing back of the circle facing the first player. If the cat is tossed into the ring, player No. i counts lo and has another turn to toss, con- tinuing tossing and counting lo until he misses. When he finally misses by tossing the cat outside the ring, the player who first picks up the cat has the privilege of "tipping the cat" by hitting the pointed end with a bat and then striking the cat as far as he can. Player No. i endeavors to catch the cat, if successful he adds lo to his score. Failure to catch compels player No. i to again toss for the ring. Player No. 2, the one who "tipped the cat," counts 10 for each length of the bat measured from the cat to the circle after batting, provided the cat is not caught. 50 or 100 points may constitute a game. (55 The American game of "Peg " is played in this way: The peg is marked on the four sides respectively (I), (III, )(V), (X). Players lag to a line for first play. First player lays the peg on the bat and throws it as far as he can. If another player catches the peg first player is ''out," and the catcher takes his place. If the peg is not caught the player who gets the peg throws it from the place where it lights, toward the 'Mag line." If the peg hits the line, or if it lights with the "X" side up, the first player is ''out," otherwise the first player has the privilege of tipping and batting the peg as many times as is indicated by the numeral which is up. The other players try to catch the peg and put the first player "out." The number of bat lengths from the peg to the "lag line" count one each to the score of the first player. The first player, instead of batting the peg, may, after tipping it, and while it is still in the air, strike it vertically down- ward, this feat counts i,ooo to his score, or he may juggle the peg on the bat, each toss vertically upward, counts i,ooo but he must finally bat the peg. Should he miss in juggling, he loses the count, and must give the bat to the next player. Games of 5,000 or 50,000 points are played. PRPEH FILE. ff ^ J /7...J... ^, P^r.ti T,.,t n. r. PAPER FILE. Stock, v'a" Bass and Cherry. Make the small top piece of Cherry and glue in place. Use an 8d nail for a spindle. No Drawing. 66 ^AND PAPER BLOCK ; > -- - — > 1 "p -f--/i'-^f-:r-^^'H c- 7I .^n 1 \ : ■ —^ r N CTJtO ) "- = ( — t i ^ \ \ •35J ■4 AWf « 77./ SAND P/SPEIR BLOCK "Sticc* .A -TM.OnK.l <&. «^.S, T. •*w X X ^\ 4 w«n«M SO. X J ^ /^ -x -i^ ^ »H«'. «<.<. *«. 07 SAND PAPER BLOCK. 1. Plane the working face and mark it X. 2. Plane the working edge and mark it II. 3. Plane the other edge. 4. Gauge the thickness on both edges and plane to gauge-lines. 5. Gauge the width (do not plane). 6. Gauge for rip-saw /e'' wide (do not saw). 7. Chamfer one corner (ask teacher which). 3. Plane this end scjiiare. 9. Measure length and mark with a knife-line. 10. Saw off. 11. Chamfer. 12. Plane this end. 13. Mark and plane the curved end. 14. Mark and plane the beveled end. 15. Saw and plane to the width. FINISH. 1. Measure and mark gains on W. F. (use knife-lines). 2. Carry the lines down both edges. 3. Gauge the depth of the gains. 4. Saw between the lines, at a little distance from them (cut nearly to gauge-lines). 5. Chisel carefully to the lines. 6. Make wedges. 68 TE/l POT 3TAND. rqmr :Ma ^-..^-t EvftNS Del -/e^' MM. Friednici JJes PICTURE FfiAMES. ^ ^M U. 1 !< — l'Ce3 j^^ '4nJ "^^ 3la»(lanl Dimtniiena. ^kJ\/Sw <1 t/rriYJ nrin PICTURE FRAMES. All picture moulding is to be made of }^" Oak and }^" Pine, as indicated on the drawing, which shows only a few sections that may be built up in this way. Sections I and H show the use of yi" Oak, which is allowable. *A11 frames are to be made with the mitre joint and fastened together with glue and brads as is indi- cated in the isometric drawings. The width of picture moulding may be made. from one to three inches as shown by the "Standard Dimensions" Drawing. r. Plane a tried edge on one of the }^" Oak boards and gauge the width of the moulding. 2. Rip off this strip and plane to the gauge-line. 3. Shape the edge or edges, according to the design selected. 4. In the same way prepare a strip of equal length for the outer * Frames of greater width than three inches may, however, be made with the doweled butt joint, this form being considered more artistic for heavy frames. 72 edge, if the design requires this third piece, and also pre- pare the ^4" pine base piece. 5. Glue and brad the strips together using as few brads as pos- sible. (The brads should be set). 6. Clean the moulding with sandpaper, and finish according to the directions for finish. 7. Mark the joints with the bevel and saw apart. FINISH. 1. Dead Black. Fill with any dark filler and finish with two coats of "Drop-black" ground in Japan. (This drop- black is a flat-drying coach finish.) 2. Glossy Black. Polish the above with floor-wax. 3. Mottled. Color with either wood-stain or drop-black, and then fill with a light colored filler. (May be polished with wax if desired.) 4. Green, Brown, or any color which requires stain should be filled after coloring. Two coats of shellac may be used over any of the above. BOOT JACK. (\ hr JiMn^ qui Stock, X 6" X 20 BOOT JACK. ', Oak or Birch. Plane one edge and one end. Gauge width and center line. Lay off curves on one side and the lines for mortise on the opposite side, taking all measurements from the planed edge and end. Plane to width. Saw nearly to curves with turning-saw and finish with spoke- shave and files. Square lines on each edge for mortise and gauge the depth of mortise. Saw and chisel mortise, fitting it to thickness of waste piece at end which is to be used in making the brace. Mark lines for chamfer, on edges with marking-gauge and on top with thumb-gauge. Bore hole. Fit the brace or cleat, being particular that the bevel end will rest firmly on floor when in position for use. The bevel end of brace should be very carefully planed and tested with the T Bevel and trysquare. 11. Glue and nail together. 12. Clean and finish with shellac. Use wood-filler on Oak before using shellac. General Drawing. 7' 9- 10. 74 2/iLT ^OX -I - ^caU Naif Sije,. t:iBU /IJ'. flf.fXma.. /?>. ijntrj SALT BOX No. i, Stock, %" X 6" X i6", s. 2 s., Pine and yi" Basswood. 1. Plane tried edge and gauge width. 2. Saw off near gauge-line, saving the narrow strip for the rail to which cover will be hinged. 3. Plane to gauge-line and lay off the back with compass and knife-lines. 4. Saw off and finish back with plane and chisel, then gauge and plane to required thickness. 5. Make two bottom pieces in the same way as above, one to be used to hold the basswood in shape at top while it is drying. 6. Make cover and rail and fasten together with hinges. 7. Fasten base to back. 8. Prepare Basswood by planing to correct length but leaving the width greater than is required. 9. Soak the Basswood in water for at least one hour. 75 At this point design and apply ornamentation to top of the back: (either punching or chip-carving may be used.) Fasten Basswood at one edge and carefully bend to shape around the base and the extra base piece which is to be inserted at top. Fasten in this position with a cord but do not glue and nail to place until Basswood is thoroughly dry. Fasten with brads and glue and clean with sandpaper. Shellac. General Drawing. 2/iLT BOX No. 2 A ivj-M^^ jg.t C S JroH3 Jiestq>. LETTER BOX No./. :iy^' /liV/(Yrrtiri il C 2 /r^osM^^Y"^" ' /^A/L BOX. fUcw,/ 'f |_.f i/i: J4* C '~^ % fl ,i > Kffl -- Ih ^-t— ^ /7" »n Ir-Sc,.fu,/,«cyi. Hauiltu Ues. 78 D/l/iWJNG hOHHD. Z]\ K 1 ..... ■v: J "■■■ i \ -^ ^2"^ *-2'-* ....^^ ? -■■ -20" V^^^T^ T ."^UU/iHL' A^n TR1HNGLE2. 2.4 H H VVf^^fiS Dti GRHDEN BRKE. AWEvf^NH DcL. /il E. Gagt Pes. 79 ^PHEflDING BORFiDrcnlN^ECT^. ; i : j Open space Lncd luUk pafiet'. \ \ \ M M r„irnM«,4 nmraHru I SPECIMEN CASE NO J •4 JVur-rva; ir-ais iutt glass fixate- M W r.... 77./ 80 1 — "^ 1 '-^ ICVGL^ -/o- BICYCLE RHCK //a /. "]®r #^ ■^ iii^i '^ /-^ '' /^amm^'i ■^ "^ — J'— u 1 1 1 1 1 p]^ /" X 1 w^! - ® - J 1 >' ■■■--^ t£2|i f ir— ^ A W /.V/"vs -Of 5 1 81 BICYCLE WiCH No. 2. _T_ _/. i *K •/^^-^^J ->^^J-^^/i' _JL_ Li ^1^ 't^ §^ u r'O" »- Id f\ W r.'/.Afa Xlf/-. M M F,- ^~ e -> - •tade Ot'ouiici tcfi edge,. Half lafi. 1^ c 5./>-o.,s yjc HAT HACK. ^^'Ciam/. ^ V'-^ -?£ •^i r'i^i ~¥^.. /'egs le it u tig/il Jttj ir.itn and glutei i,l. ^caU JJaif 3ije iK tYffrflm aii HAT RACK. Stock, ^" X 3^" X 24", s. 2 s., Pine. The back is intended as an exercise in planing and as a basis for decoration either by means of chip-carving or back-ground punching. The pegs are to be made as shown in drawing and are in- tended as strictly a chisel exercise. The pegs may be wedged, in addition to gluing. . General Drawing (not shown.) 83 INLfilD HAT HflCK. A W EvsNS Del. 84 /iaUAHIUM. Ler^^th.ioicltk,^, htiqhl U — ij ;■ v.o; .„......ri T ^f'l" /f-W B H.B TN ^ ^ ^^ ^ r ^^^^^-^^^^^H^ -. />>• r.'«/vs i7/-i: C S /)-0f)3 i?fS. AN AQUARIUM FOR THE SCHOOL-ROOM, By Dr. H. H. Wilder, Northampton, Mass. It seems rather a pity that the word ''aquarium " should be so generally associated with a large globe of clear water, round which a few goldfish lazily disport themselves, at times distorted out of all recognition, or magnified to colossal proportions by the deceitful refraction of the spherical surface. To a true lover of nature there is something woefully unsatisfactory about such a globe, — unsatisfactory because it corresponds to nothing in nature, and does not even suggest nature. The first endeavor in making a good school aquarium is to make it natural, make it a true sample of some real pond, where everything grows and thrives as nearly as possible as it does out of doors in the real world. For purposes of observation, an aquarium with straight sides is better than a globular or cylindrical one. (A very practical one is here shown.) There are two sizes, the larger with a capactiy 85 of five gallons, its base 13" x 8", and its height 13"; and the smaller 2^^ gallons, and its dimensions 10^" x 6)^", and 10" high, SOIL AND PLANTS. To prepare such an aquarium, collect first some good garden soil, a small quantity of clean sand, and a few handfuls of small round pebbles about the si/e of beans. Then go to some pasture pond or slow running brook, and dig up a few sprays of small sorts of aquatic plants, taking care to get the roots and a little of the soil. Almost any truly aquatic green plants will do; but chara and anacharis are among the best. If you can find any duck-weed, a a little floating plant, each plant consisting of a few small oval leaves, and a short hanging root, take some of that also. Take also a little of the floating green slime, which is not a dangerous, malarial scum, but a beautiful water plant, and a fine food for snails and some other aquatic animals. When all the above have been brought together, put the aquarium in its permanent position and place in the bottom 1^" to 2" of the garden soil. Wet this thoroughly, and put in it the water plants. THE WATER. Now add water until there is about an inch of it above the surface of the soil. This will be very muddy at first, but if the soil is of the right sort and not too clayey, it will settle fairly well in half an hour. Now add the sand a little at a time until you have a layer of perhaps ^" to i" covering the soil, and then add water very carefully until the aquarium is full. In adding this water, pour it slowly down the sides, and not always in the same place, to avoid making holes in the sand. This water should stand a day and then be carefully syphoned off with a rubber tube, and clear water added. While the water is off, strew small pebbles on the surface. Change the water every day or half-day until it seems quite clear. In some cases a week may be necessary in order to accomplish this. Finally add the floating plants, and the aquarium is ready to be stocked. STOCKING THE AQUARIUM. The stocking of an aquarium is a chapter in itself, and the selection of animals depends on the taste or object of its owner. An aquarium of the larger of the two sizes mentioned, and well stocked with vegetation, will support from eight to ten goldfish, two large tadpoles, and a half dozen snails. Small bullheads, minnows, or other native fish will answer as well as goldfish, and may prove even more interesting. Such an aquarium is almost self-supporting, but it is better to take out and replace about two pitchers of water every two or three weeks, or as often as the fish begin to lie near the surface, and gasp. A few bits of coral or bright colored shells placed in the bottom may make the aquarium more attractive, but hardly as true to nature as without them. The fish will thrive better if they are fed every day or two with a few crumbs of * 'goldfish-food" which may be obtained at any bird store. A ten-cent package will last a year. A tiny grotto may be made of a few large stones placed in one corner: and such a retreat would be much appreciated by the fish. NEG/iTIVE WyiSHING BOX T ^ ■i .-fg' i ».w >;^%^; 2^ ui/ai/e ieaelecl. Giire iot 3 coats o/ uikitt /eacl iiinJe aiicl out . A W EvflNS.BE^. nmiNG BACH Fon NEG/iTIVE^. .yCliie iNad wiramiiininini^^ ■s/- TL mliiiiiiiiiiii] 6„f C///US 3" /o„5 a„f/ <,„< fi^' AWEyfiNSncL ch r^ Z'w/./vs i7ri: /y V grtt.v i?e WEATHEB ^ANE.NQ.i. -*ik 'J?- — ^ ^t. .,.r ^7^^ 3i' f* - ^ y-;- ] :t^.' '^' -J^-' f^ £i' Ji'. X ' m l/?U/r..... 77.^ <2 Ziilc TAij'. JfB^ii ^ FratC fftnT N^Y I WEATHER VANE No. i. Stock, y%" Pine and i^r" Bass. The forming of the arms of the wheel and the chamfering of horizontal end post are to be done with the knife, (reneral Drawing. WEATHER VANE no 2 . / — \ :^--hk^o - /i'-*i flUffiriiiri Xlt( (7/ini fii {{•mi4i(UHiki\x \ TOWEL HOLLin. zi" W JS - A w F..>, n.i TOWEL ROLLER. ( 2i", s. 2 s., Pine, X 3 X 7 S. 2 S. Stock, ^" X 5" X 2l", S. 2 Pine, i^" X i}(" X 20", Rough Gum. 1. Plane stock for the back to size on edges and ends. 2. Lay off curves and dovetails as per drawing, using only gauge, compass and knife-lines. 3. Bore holes for concave curves at top. 4. Saw out with back-saw and finish with chisel, being particular that the sides and shoulders of dovetails are square with the face. 5. Plane stock for brackets on edges and ends to a greater length than will be required for both brackets and to a width of 2l<". 6. Mark out both brackets on this piece with knife and gauge- lines, so that the ends already planed will serve for the top surface of each. 7. Chisel curve and test with trysquare. 92 8. Bore holes ^" deep and groove one bracket as shown. 9. Saw apart and plane to lines. 10. Mark mortises by laying on the dovetail already made and scribing with knife. 11. Square and gauge depth of mortise. 12. Saw exactly to lines and remove stock with chisel. THE ROLLER. 1. Cut square bar to required length. 2. Find center of square bar at the ends by drawing diagonals. 3. Scribe both circles at each end. 4. Draw lines on end of bar tangent to large circles cutting the corners at about 45 degrees. 5. The ends of these lines may be connected by gauge lines on the length of the bar. 6. Plane to octagonal form, requiring that this preliminary work be accurate. 7. Plane to circle. 8. Saw and chisel small ends. 9. Finish roller with sandpaper. No'iE. — The back is now to be decorated either by means of chip carving or background punching. 10. Clean and glue together. 11. Shellac. Drawing. — The drawing for this exercise should consist of details of each part separately, and not as given in above drawing except for advanced pupils. 93 2ifQCE^TI0NS FGj\ OBNANENTATION or TOWEL nOLLEIi. w r.v^^s /I,,.. 94 TO WEL H OL LEB M ODEL^ ^heet no /. F{oiU, 1£ n F,,'st bcu.-d wn^K "ft^H Sccc.id /,C»,'U ^fHclc ■n--Y Tn.,-d hoard jn 2'^.3'^. cch coni/iitie- FouftU icard 3C Second Third fout-tk Ftflk ^titk S^v^tixtk £ isZ-^A Ji htccf, kloc/, iilod) kicch kloch iUch iloc/x VasZe stoc)\ on. txiL of tjie.it, inodcia tS 7. 5th oard. 1- 6th ( oard. 19. 1)5 12. Draw circles at F-F with dividers. 13. Draw curves at G-G with dividers. 14. Mark off dovetails with dividers from center lines C-C. r^. Draw knife-lines marked H-H-H-H. Bore holes at F-F with Fostner bit. Saw to lines B-B and D-D, use back-saw. Saw to lines H-H-H^H and A-A. Round two corners and finish with chisel and file. ROLLER. ist ( I. Plane face No. i. stick. ) 2. Plane face No. 2 square with No. i. 2nd \ 3. Surface off face No. 3. stick. I 4. Gauge width from No. 2, on No. i, and on No. 3. 3rd \ 5. Plane No. 4, to these lines, stick. I 6. Gauge width from No. i, on No. 2, and on No. 4. ( 7. Plane No. 3, to these lines. . •< 8. Square around each end with knife-line making ( stick correct length. 5 th Slick. 8 th stick. I 9. Saw ends to these lines, use back-saw. I 10. Draw diagonals on ends. .| II. Draw circles on ends with dividers. I 12. Mark chamfers on ends. (^ 13. Gauge chamfers on sides. 6th \ r^, stick ") ^^' P^^"^ corners to gauge-lines. Stick i '5* ^^^^^ o^ corners again, use smoothing plane. I 16. Plane off corners again with smoothing plane. I 17. Round slick with plane and strip of sandpaper. I 18. Draw small circles on ends. I 19. Mark off shoulders with gauge. [ 20. Saw down shoulders, do not saw too deeply. 96 9tli \ 2 1. Work small ends with chisel. stick. ( 22. Finish small ends with file, and saw to 3/2" in length. BRACKETS. Plane working face, and mark it. Plane tried edge, and mark it. Plane other face. Chamfer corners opposite tried edge, use plane. Plane both ends square. Gauge width from tried edge on both faces. Mark off length from each end with knife-line. Mark off corners with knife-line. Draw curves. Plane width to gauge-line. Saw off corners, use back-saw. Saw pieces apart. Plane to lines on top ends. Chisel off round corners. Lay out holes, make right and left. 16. Lay out mortises on both pieces. Lay out roller slot on right hand bracket. Saw mortises and roller slot, use back-saw. Finish out mortises and slot with S/^" chisel. Eighth block shows mortise in process of making, also posi- tion of hole. hlnrW 2- UlvJCK . . 3- 4- 5- 2nd 6. block. 7- 8. . 9- I;:: block. 12. 4th block. 1- 5th 1 .<■ block. hs. 6th !:;■ block. 1* yth block. i ,19- 97 PAPEH HACK. 3ca.U FuU 3tje. ^CX-^/'KIZ ;?' X' ^ ) « S « / — > \ -^ 7~] — Sn I ( A W f.A^s n.i PAPER RACK. Stock, y^" and /g" Pine. 1. Prepare stock for the frame of back D. 2. Join as shown or with open mortise and tenon joints. 3. Make and fasten piece C to back with glue and nails. 4. Make rails B and pickets A for front. 5. Fasten A. & B. with ^" R. H. Brass screws, except the first and last pickets, which will be held to cleat C by i^" R. H. Brass screws. 6. Clean with sandpaper and finish with shellac. General drawing as shown. ^LED. /} W F>r^^,. SLED No. I Stock, V^" X 9" X 37", s. 2 s., Pine, J^^" x 5" x i2}4", s. 2 s., Pine, 3^" x 13" X 30", s. 2 s., Pine, i" x i" x 13" rough Ash. Iron corner braces are furnished. Iron shoes will be supplied at cost to pupils when desired. 1. Plane both edges of large }i" board and lay off both runners, using the planed edges for base of runners. 2. Saw apart and finish to lines, but do not mark or cut dovetail mortises. 3. Make dovetail braces and from these scribe the mortises in the runners. 4. Glue and nail dovetail braces to place. 5. Make top and glue and nail to place. 6. Plane the ash rod in the same manner as roller in Towel Rol- ler. This rod should be nailed into place, as the wedges shown in the drawing are liable to split the runners. 7. Screw on iron corner braces. 8. Finish with shellac. (No shellac to be used inside). Detail Drawings. uu FT n '-IS.:' /is/t. £'iiU of eras /litcc. I /e- - 4- PEN TRAY. 100 / 1 •, .t -i> \ ^00 \ H,^ 1 "" ^ i, -J i i \ .r -iv t 1^ ^.- t 1 /^f :^ _.__ X v^^ T C .i ^ \ s. " ^ r^'— Ti.i i o he matte of o or mere altc itrifi cj ti^Kt and dur/f w">^ ttcnaU d I- PEN TRAY No. i. Stock, i" X 2" X 12" rough Pine, i" x 3" x 12" rough Gum, or a greater variety and a larger number of pieces. 1. Plane one face and one edge of pine board. 2. Gauge and saw ofE one >^" strip and plane to gauge line. 3. Plane one face and one edge of Gumwood board. 4. Gauge and saw off one ^" strip and plane to gauge line. 5. Glue together these two strips and proceed as above to pre- pare another strip which may then be glued on. The working faces should be held as evenly as possible in gluing and should all be on one side. 6. When all five or more strips are glued the face side should be carefully leveled with the smoothing-plane, the thickness gauged and the opposite face (which is still unplaned) planed to gauge lines. 7. Draw center line and mark curves. 8. Gauge sides of groove. 101 ; ;— ; '.'''''['.' '\ ' 9. Gouge curves as shown (do not use mallet or hammer on gouge.) 10. Scrape with swan-neck scraper. 11. Gauge and plane chamfer. 12. Clean and shellac. Note. — Test semicircle with trysquare as shown in sketch above. Drawing. — No drawing is required but may be made if the teacher decides that it is best. PEN THAY. NO. 2. \5^^i^^^^^-^-gF /iw. a:.wvs n.i PEN TRAY No. 2. Stock, J'q", s. 2 s., Gum. All gouge work is to be left rough showing the marks of the gouge. 102 NEW^PAPEH FILE. e / ^ »-< — p K — -t^. -h: ^-f -f Ky^-^^w^- \\ -i.ecln,a„ De FOOT ^TOOL No. /. Chaiuftr. 1 -a -'i'A J3i grant Bttbt jDti. 103 FOOT BTQOL.NoZ. ^i'^ii'A <0 / i 1 1. W 1 ^tciio,^ 7iB". Slteuriftj hcur cunireaL /Jart \t 'C' 13 const rucCed. fl W F....^ il..l aeo. B^kacni nrs.fnr, FOOT STOOL No. 3. Stock, J-i", s. 2 s., Pine. The curved outlines of the sides are to be sawed with a turn- ing-saw, and finished with file and sandpaper. Each side is to be made separately, that is, one side is not to be used as a template in laying out the other side. This rule in regard to duplication of parts should be insisted upon in all cases. The bevel is to be used in planing the edges of the top board, 112^ and 68" being the required angles. A cover of carpet may be supplied by the pupil. Drawing as shown, omitting shading. il. E. Onge. PiHNQ BENCH 32" M\i fit! MiH9ik Snui Chkiii9»/iarimi Sihesi, Pianu J^ench to be made of Oak. 105 Knife box. mi — - ft--— -4^ -B /oi- [ rHj!«- /^' gritira fif,^ ._L-L^#^. 2"— I- — i Li -/£-j Jfe£ ITTj-^ ] c W 7#' k/-- /rVv^rrin r/r.i ^--^ ^"■*' ^^^'-f- 106 Knife box moS. Sma at,i, r A n.iu,^ n,,^fm,r KNIFE BOXES. Stock, }4", s. 2 s., Pine. A choice is here given of three forms of knife boxes, all hav- ing in common the use of the bevel and all illustrating a rabbeted joint. The intention is to have each pupil lay off his own work on a large ^" board, instead of giving him stock cut approximately to size, this is to teach him economy in the use of material. The teacher and not the pupil is to make the selection of the design to be used by the entire class. Drawing — Detail drawings as shown (no perspective.) 107 PENCIL BOX No.^ ^ fi kV E*KNi De oth""^" Des PENCIL BOX No. 4. Stock, i^e" Bass, 9" x g". Plane edge and ends, making length 8}( 2. Mark gauge-lines for sides and bottom, allowing ^" between pieces for sawing and planing. 3. Saw off and plane to lines. 4. Make remaining piece 8^" long and cut off enough for cover. 5. Make front and back. 6. Mark gains on sides and back. 7. Cut gains with back or rip-saw, using a block clamped in position as guide for saw. 8. Glue and nail together and clean with plane and sandpaper. Note. — Cover and sides may be ornamented with chip- carving before putting together. DIMENSIONS OP^ PARTS. Sides, iV X iS/s" X 8}{"; Grooves, i'«" wide and deep ,^«" from top. Bottom, iV X i^" X S}{". Back, i^e" X lys" X i^"; Grooves same as for sides. Front, i%" X i}i" x iY%". Cover, ?«" X il^" X 8>^". 108 PENCIL BOX. '•^ Wk \ a*^P Groove to ie cU 5*c/e ZoJth^S. 7 H f° Ji ^^^ BcLcit end / cj t/u 7i Bcllcm / cJ tUl3 in 'f f / ^' , Frc.it c^cl / oJ this \ rj T^p 1 cj ih.s i'-i ^ ^ d \ — 8' — ^ tfi V( r,\a«,\ an PENCIL BOX No. i. Stock, 3/2,", s. 2 s., Pine or Whitewood. The teacher will prepare the necessary directions for work. The %" pieces are to be planed to required thickness from the Y%" stock. Drawing — Same as above, omitting perspective. PENCIL POX NO. 1 . '^h :^ / 1 ■■>., ./. J -.fto / 1 , , ._ . , , ^ ^ p/'lm y'r-f J, ''J, — 2'r — ■ -* i"Kr - ir - - 4 rH}f^-"^« t_ H--'-^f -ar Va,-tt „xa,-kcA /i.3,C.Ij.<:^':aE /o it. made 0/ a vartttii of uiooUs uccortitiicj lo A W iiitnni nru M M riyirnr^^N 77/j;a;. to Znda 6 Bottom f't^tci 3 lata ;!" t/iic/i. EvfiNSUcL. H.J. Greeu i7t;s MEDICINE C/iBINET i .13 ^ V /-..v. //./ V, I — I ^"^ — I r Uv^ ^ JcU h Ala.,iuul. Trn,, Dr/i't Cabinet is not to be made of pine lumber. 116 LETTEH OPENEFiNQ.3 ^. IV % Chun. 2 /i-nu-i Ueai FENCING SABER No. J. Iron Waaker ^\£"ncwU. L i^QO s"- 37k M_ ., ^ ==^ -*;/ii^| I H''* C '• ^' I 1 ^ ffi »^l ^'iJowtll^ci. BtnAin^ Jt^ Jcf Guard A J. Erectfinan J}es ft W Ey0N9 Bt Neither Letter Opener or Saber is to be made of pine lumber. 117 INK ^TRND Noi #>.^-| A u/ F..», n,i. CL TH£^ L INE HEEL . K ■■■ ■., 1 i 1 / ^-x^— .-l>^- ^ 1 ■ r-^' — * r > ^-^ ; \ - , ^» . ' 1 *l i H. i 1 A 118 2N0W SHOVEL. \ Mlacic.. -/j,— 1 ..^-- '"^^.^ M .'^ u Noo 1 •!* — T 7 »— ^royu chamfir ^ * k - >r7v L- 4^^ ;^ fk St' ^-^^^ / ^ ' 1 ^ /4 1 . 1 >' P 4 >•" Ti„ T m 1 P^S d K ^ Je.s^g,. g/Z/Z^ALL. Not to be made of pine lumber. 119 HflND MIBROR No. J 't^- "■ c:S3<«Q * -gig-^gg^ tHI ^ Y and Siumfi Che. ialanct. \ J jji" V 5/1' m&m^mm. ^ x x x x x ^f^^mtd /? W Es/fiNS. JDll M M Fricdnmn Be. H/iND MIBBOF] No. 2. ft VJ Evans XJc M M rrndmanPti. 120 HHND MlBHOn No. 3. /? V E^/fln^ DCL. G /?///? /VCOC/) JJ^?. HAND MIRROR No. 3. Stock, three pieces of }i" Basswood. The back is to be left solid. The front is to have an opening as shown. The glass to be 4^" x 2)^", with Yz" taken off from each corner. This is an exercise in the use of the coping-saw^ and in glu- ing. The handle may be rounded if desired. 121 3T/iND. /-f' -:!/.. KIo K -8i" SAe/f. ^A - ^^^£j_x^£^0W^_3^ y // i:-. — H ^ HIH .1. "V I t-icO~| -" T— ' 'hco \: Ornun,,„la/ /faU. T Gro.i? Bethe Des. HOM/iN CHniH. 'li'^5' LeqA. '^rAui./jgiL. eiou/e/» are ctijjefent on & WW. Bici^eK Des- 122 123 k i" j^ug.^. at.., „fAA,r, tue a.ud clourti ] -i- Lt/,t tA,3. ^=^-x ^ \_, TABLE -23'- '^ "I'T : One /i/iei/, [-• - /.i 'i :j ; 4 r. X.- t ki^-K #^-^' 1 ■ III 1 i^ J^^ Oiif iikt i/iLS ^ ^cafe ^"- /' ^ Z,/5er/. ^ — ^ — 91- d lY:^rrfM J6»»iM,-i r Na,Ud y- Glued ^caU "i"-/ ' '•- ----■^ "«' Hrukiud liu Ciraiit ftttLm 12' BLACKING CR^E m.Z -I ,^..:p ft fc¥^gmiYi nrf \ @?=l1 ^ BowtL / ft wr.... 77.. UMBnELlA 3TnNn mm W^. P U^^./,u n,„..^.^. Use nothing but oak lumber for Umbrella Stands. 128 St^pI^add^i, -HtlGHT - 3' 6 Top5teP- lOf 3orroM5TLP- iW 5i0t5TRiPS-/'X?"x3t 74L-t:6AG^ DESIfiNE.Il. 129 STEP L/iDDEB. l^duji ^"x2'x/2 5Ufi |/ 3fx ^oi sufli'^afx/ii a x32 X/£f mi cluaiifer'S Jr" EvflHS BsL . A E.Qane JJe$. UiWN CHAW. }4x/3^" .{■ a Cn. K ai'x 16 k' isr 12' fiJo^.l ,4'C''«"'frr Section at A . ^^'J .- A W.Evans Dl m E Can Jlei.ginr. 130 FOLDING CH/ilB. A „V A aoi 4 au ^ b,t / k' Dowt.1 red d jef i'au /Deep "^;^ i* ^ '4 Oit 4 < -P2" A 1 8 1 v.. / 1 -rA. -^j^ \'r^ n^^/O"—^, -/€' '^^■^ W E v/)fvs Bel. '••^^ g L U.ck.iiSOti JJes- FOLDING CHAIR. Stock, /s" Oak. The holes for dowel rods are to be made ^" deep and not entirely through the stock as shown at A in drawing. Bolts required, with two washers to each bolt: Two }("xi34", Two }{" X 2^)8", and Four y^" x 131 WINDOW BOX. -JV^: iate^" Mtx/i. ^ L7, r^ ' HI*- i /'Side tiljt t kii and ex t fitai,^ I i ■ — x .3 l'A4/a_S LAa>i_A,di^ JJctUn, ,^/i^; ^i End aLihi i/us G.-oni Met Li Le N/iTUBE ^TUDY C/iBBYINQ CASE. ^i_^ rrn. -lev, J r'~~"r~ ^'s'H A J^ '-"B,l i' Bit t-Bit dUst.ci. i^'^"-*: SE 84 BEE Hi rain ^Ae/iar-d JJe.a. 132 TOOL CHE2T. ■£T i2"-* f\ ^^^ 71 t± 31: .i'dc^ yteit/ 0/ Sldts, and ends. liuif aije. Tcuc 0/ Z^AlS Tu,c Cf thii Giue together and fii on hoiio n. r« — ■ 1 4 cf this 29" Un- Side raiJs 'A "■ 4 0/ ihts 1 e" Unq fo>' end raiis'A"- ^<^ ■-U 2 of this Z9" /on§ /«»' Side ra,ls '£" B of IhtS je" Icn^/cr- end rails'^" /O Section of coi/er. ^^.«s->:i.^j-:*->-,^ B \f^^''---—^ /i-^^^:=^-^r^ £^3:j^j?r^: ]fi :± €ndi of Covir - 6i" — J£3 i

T7T JiU; -^.J"''-* d W, SrflrtS Hii, ^c«fc J"= /^" -Sec/ion showing position of top Suction of panel, length lui&e.. f<^efi SJrsns,/if,s, Tool Chests should be made of Hardwood. FRAME FOB LANTEBN 5LWE3. 3rx4J, — r — \v Y I"? v.*4.i....l In : 1 1 ^ 1 1 1 K' - 1.1 ■ (\ lY i^mrci <7fi^ FHRME fobLRNTEHN SLIDER 3rx34 ': 1 ' ■ i i 1 i ^ 1 : I i i il i....: I t[^.J__i - H4| m r* ^^ 1 ' ^! -- r — ' XL^^'-^~i r ^x--^ ^ 1 1 i ^1 1 : \ 1 1 1 \ ^ec/i.n/3 3' These Frames should be made of red cedar or Spanish cedar. 133 PEDE2TAL No. J ^z^-— £(([^aMA'■^ CJias H frcnn- lU.iLan^i-. PlDE^TRL.Z. AWP.,..^ nrr. wram'mmamm'f^ 134 V ^ / \ P£DE5T/iL No d. ^eciioiis 0.1 CD' I'UAf method mu^ At «sec/ ^=0} li^ f. J^ ^ Tccmeu DtS. T BENCH STOP. /? W i:v^>^s Hi Gee W Fowler Ucs 13." BOY'^ WQHH BENCH No, J ^ ... ..k, , f^:^] 1:2 D - 3"^ -3' ^ O7I r;7.:o .1. I- L. Hand ,1? 7VC/ 1 yvo.| y. 1 T '^k ■^T -T- * -^ - ^4" ^x-4 _ '^'^ Drawer G, X' 9". JJrawer H . X ' ^\ B a TAua I - a. Ha.xd. I - L.Hand 'c 2S ■ 3 Thas. 1 ' 1 f^ III l-<- 'D' 22" — 4 Thai. i M'^' L '-^ 1 + '£■■ 2 Thus -. I- —4- --P /9i 7^ -»j >*-^'' ft W.E*xNs Dti.. To/i a'K so'x 48 wrwm^ied jes. 136 BOY'^ WOBH BENCH No. 2. Tofs ^3crem at front edje.. Through inot~Use a>i(( tenon, loftcfjfc? nd tfluad. J.H.ToomeH Be.%. 137 BOY '5 WOnH BENCH No.4. ::n: t^ •-^ :; :;: Y --f«S' .i_ A •\J. 30" --ITT ^ ^ /<9'-^ OI ^^ 3i' 4r [^ f 5tct,cn'/ia': 1 ^ ^: . I \\Y^-^ ril "fU. .L.iL - /a" — - 12" * t ^^ Jiott- Drawtf IB'XB' maij lit refiUeeJ iif two ZSi'xC" jc ttjt oa.1 u.%in£ ifiact. az sktif ■ ft W £yp^sJ]t:L. CAas ,5 Jrcs De^. 138 Via A r^a. c. r/g/;:^7:.;r/ § -=-::— ^ _ ¥ CHIP-CARVING. Chip-carving, sometimes called '< peasant-carving," is the development of the '' savage's delight in notching with a knife the wooden implements and objects of his daily use." As a home in- dustry it has been most fully developed in Scandinavian countries, by the peasants, during the long evenings of winter. As a means for the decoration of objects made by the manual training classes, chip-carving has been found very attractive to the pupils and has stimulated them to greater effort in the accurate making of the objects to be decorated, for no piece of work may be ornamented unless it is the product of the pupil's best effort. Fig. A represents the method used in marking out the simplest form for chip-carving. Fig. B shows the position of the knife* in cutting. Holding the knife vertically, place the acute angle in the corner (a) to be cut deepest, pressing it hard into this corner, let the edge of the knife sink into the line till it touches the upper border line. Make these vertical cuts on both sides of the triangle. Then, holding the knife at about thirty degrees from the horizontal, remove the triangular chip (b). Fig. C shows a design formed by doubling the line of triangles. Fig. D shows slight variations and a square like those in Fig. C, but notched on four sides. Designs for chip-carving should always be very carefully drawn with a sharp pencil. Children should plan their own designs as soon as they have learned the general method and have acquired some skill. * See page 30. 139 CHIP C/IRVJNG. CENTHE-PIECES. K^.^^ Dr. A Tflaiiuiaii £r,iiaiiii\ CHIP CAHVING. IXXXXXXXX] ^^^ -' ^-' 140 UJLb^/GNS TOH CHIP CmVING. ^ :^^ ^ ^||MC1ilMil»<|>4 Aifi^fmii-Pf^- JJeSKins of G.J.ar'SOn ^o&ter*. 141 D£2IQM^ ron CHIP CRnVING. Uesiqns. 0/ G Larson, Bast en Mass r.^^^is. A n^k, ns.cn. n^.ts BENIGN 2 FOR CHIP CKRVINC Uenona of G Larson BosCo/ ^^M^^^sss 142 DESIGN^ FOE CHIP C/iHVING. JJesigna of Q. Larson Boston. M ass. F.^a»'% k H.k.,^^cn n,f. 143 CHIP CRHVING G J.a,-scu BcnU>, He W/iTEn 'WHEEL. NO i I Mi^ CHIP C /J^V/N G, Desen, SrJi\ ms oP G. Larson McsLon M uSS. j 145 CONSTRUCTIVE WORK. p:xamples of construction in various materials. ' In order that constructive work may represent something more than either amusement or even training for skill, the articles made should be the outgrowth of the child's mental activity, should each represent an idea which is propagated by the class-room work. The shipping tag would be a logical incident in the study of com- mercial geography. The tipcat* might form an incident in the illustration of amusement as opposed to the necessity for commer- cial life. The directions here given for making are intended only as guides to the teacher. The arrangements of steps should be thought out by the pupils. Material being given and a motive furnished to the worker, his own mental activity should accomplish the plan if allowed free play. Shipping Tag. — Suitable for use in grades one to four in- clusive. -IM- Deng-rt Of yHBn.U. Stock: Heavy manila paper. Tools required: Pencil, rule, scissors and punch. Directions: Give the pupil a piece of manila paper, some- * See page 63. 146 • what larger than the tag to be made. Measure and mark the length of the tag from an edge which is already straight, and rule a light line parallel to that straight edge. Cut on this line.* Measure the width at each end, rule the line for the width and cut on that line. Measure one-half the width at each end, and rule the center line on both sides of the tag. Mark and cut the corners as shown in the drawing. Have the children design the form to be used in strengthening the eyelet. This is to be cut in duplicate from manila paper and pasted or glued to each side of the tag. Punch the hole when the glue is dry. An Envelope (for holding work in process of construction). Suitable for all grades. Stock: Heavy manila paper, io>^" x io>4". Tools: Pencil, rule, compass and scissors. Directions: Measure and mark the heavy outline as shown in the development. Fold on light lines and glue the side and bottom flaps. This makes an envelope measuring about five by seven inches. Pupils should be allowed to plan envelopes for certain specific purposes. It is well to show the class various forms of envelopes opened out noting the number and relative sizes of its various parts, that the flaps are longer than the half width, etc. * Sec page 30. 147 Cardboard Boxes. — Suitable for all grades. 1 t c 1 1 -c-> ) • ^c-. I J 1 D?.'Vl'hOFMENT, Stock: Strawboard, jute or heavy "folding board." Tools: Pencil, rule and knife. Directions: The perspective shows the shape of a box made in about the proportions shown in the development. The corners are bound with bookbinder's adhesive cloth which is the most con- venient and serviceable material to use in binding all cardboard constructions. Gummed paper may be used if more convenient. The drawing which is marked development represents a flat piece of cardboard, marked and cut ready to be folded and bound at the corners. The dimensions A and B determine the width and length of the box to be made, dimensions c, c, c, c, determine the depth of the box. The light lines bounding the central rect- angle indicate that the cardboard has been cut on these lines only partly through. The heavy outline indicates the lines on which the cardboard is cut entirely through, and the dotted lines indi- cate a part which is to be or has been removed. These forms of 148 representation in cardboard work will be adhered to throughout these articles. After explaining the general method, as indicated above, the children should each plan a box for some specific use. They should each determine the size of stock which will be necessary in making their boxes. When completed the boxes may be decor- ated either with drawings or with conventional designs cut from colored paper. Let the children plan a cover for their box — this might be a rectangular tube for the box to slide into or a shallow lid, or like a cover to most candy boxes, as deep as the box itself. Which would be the strongest, most convenient and cheapest? Cardboard Trays. — Suitable for all grades. ViVPLOPMENT Stock: Strawboard, jute or heavy "folding board." Tools: Pencil, rule and knife. Directions: The directions given for the Cardboard Box are applicable in every respect to the Tray. Match Safe. — Suitable for all grades. Stock: Strawboard, or heavy folding-board. Tools: Rule, pencil and knife. Directions: Make the tray in the same manner as was shown 149 for a similar tray above. The bottom of this tray should measure about 2^" X3^". Make the holder in the same manner as for a box about 2)4" high by 2" wide by i" thick, Glue the bottom of the holder to the inside of the tray and glue on an ornamental sandpaper scratcher as shown. Stationery Case. — Suitable for all grades. fcj Stock: Strawboard, jute or heavy folding-board. 150 Tools: Rule, pencil and knife. Directions: Draw the outline as shown by heavy lines and cut out to that shape. Cut the lines B B B B partly through for folding. On the reverse side draw the six lines marked c. These are to locate the partitions D, which are shown in the picture. Now cover the strawboard on each side with fancy paper, bend and glue to shape. Make the partitions D and glue the edges to the sides and base of case on the lines c. Cut out six strips (A) about U" wide and 5" long which are to be glued in place as shown in the picture and afterward trimmed even with the top edge of the case. A Thaumatrope. — This simple form of thaumatrope is very convenient for illustrating the duration of optical impressions. The disks are of cardboard glued together with a needle between. I Both disks are to be edged and covered with black paper before gluing together. Strips of red glazed paper are fixed in the middle on each side, one horizontally and one vertically. An outline of white paint around the red will add greatly to the effect. When balanced between the thumb and finger and rapidly rotated, a red cross appears, due to the persistence of the impression upon the retina. 151 Envei.ope Case. — Suitable for all grades. T% -f ] — vy ■5i- r\ r Stock: Strawboaiu uiucctv^ i^.^x.^o .^^^lU. Tools: Pencil, rule, compass and knife. Directions: The only special directions required, other than those which have been previously given, are that the dimensions for the length and width may be varied to suit the size of envelopes or cards to be held, and that the base is a separate piece to which the case is glued. 152 Brush Holder.— Suitable for all grades. s r Stock: Strawboard covered with fancy colored paper. Tools: Rule, pencil, compass and knife. Directions: Mark and cut out the shape for the back and then cover it with colored paper. Cut the slots to receive the flaps of the pocket at a distance of one and one-quarter inches from the edge and two inches long, parallel to the slanting edges. Now mark and cut out the pocket as shown in the drawing (^the shape may be varied at pleasure). Covef with colored paper and then cut the lines for the fold. Slip the flaps of the pocket tiirough the slots in the back piece and glue them firmly to the back. 153 A Top. — (To illustrate the secondary colors produced by rapid rotation.) Two or more disks of strawboard or thin wood are cut out and glued together, sl }(" hole being either punched or bored through the center. The point is to be made of wood, cone shaped, and a short length of ^" dowel rod fastened into it with glue as shown. The disk is then to be bound on the edge with dark paper, as also the under surface. The upper surface of the disk is to be covered with a sheet of either blue or red paper, and sectors of red or yellow are to be glued on top of this at equal distances apart.* Fasten the disk in place with glue. The rapid rotation of this top will produce the appearance of violet (blue and red), or orange (red and yellow), the effect being due to the dura- tion of the impression of light. * Six sections of red or yellow are better than three. 154 An Electric Toy.- — The drawing represents an electric toy which is designed to amuse very young children and to instruct older ones. It illustrates the attraction of unlike and the repulsion .vmmwmm.mmwM;/* =^ ^^yyy^yy^^yyyyyyJJ/^/JJ^^M///77m I? 2^ due to like electric polarity. The box may be made either square or circular, of strawboard, and should be neatly covered 155 with colored paper. A ring, narrower than the height of the box, should be glued inside to serve as a support for the glass cover, which is to be held in place by a bindihg of linen or strong paper. Before fixing the glass in position, place a number of bits, of paper and charcoal (burnt matches broken small) in the box. If the glass is now rubbed with flannel or silk the paper and charcoal will be attracted so forcibly that they will jump up and cling to the glass until they become charged with electricity from the glass when they will be as forcibly repelled and will continue dancing back and forth for some time or until they have con- ducted away all of the electricity from the glass cover. The sizes of the boxes will be determined by the size of the glass squares or disks obtainable. Apparatus to Illustrate that the Angle of Reflection OF a Ray of Light is Equal to the Angle of Incidence. — The • o o o '±. o ;o o o OP i back piece, 8" long, is made from pine wood with a small piece of mirror is let into the center flush with the face of the board. The base, a semicircle, is to be made of ^" wood. The arc, made of thin basswood or strawboard, should be divided before bending. 156 The divisions are shown as ten degrees apart, but may be any equidistant spaces. Holes are drilled at each division. If now, a light is held near a hole on either side of the center (o), its reflection can be seen only through a hole equally distarit from the center on the other side. A Scientific Top. — In addition to the endless amount of amusement to be derived from the spinning of tops, this form of toy has come to be a most useful piece of apparatus for demon- strating certain laws of light and of motion. How many boys can tell the reasons for the following phe- nomena of a rapidly spinning top? Why does it continue to revolve after being set in motion? Why does it persistently remain in a vertical position in spite of attempts to tip it over to one side? Why does not a top spin longer when its speed is increased? Why does a heavy top spin longer than a light one? The top shown has been designed for use as a manual training 157 exercise and is, therefore, not such an accurate or heavy instru- ment as is to be found in a physical laboratory, but many experi- ments of interest and value may be performed with it and the skill necessary to produce a well balanced top will teach a lesson in care which should be invaluable. Directions for Making. — Cut out a disk (A) 3" in diameter from a piece of wood about 3-16" thick. The black squares shown in the sectional view represent a ring of lead which is fastened to the edge of disk A and is placed there to give weight 158 to the top, in the same manner that the rim of a fly-wheel is made thick and heavy in order that it may store up energy. The ring may be made either by hammering a piece of lead to the form of a long (lo") ribbon and bending it around the disk where it is nailed in place, or it may be cast by melting the lead and pouring into a suitably prepared mould which is easily made of wood. The forging method is, however, the easiest. Having made and fastened the rim in place, cut out two disks of thin wood 3^" in diameter to be used as covers. Glue these to disk A. While the glue is drying, make the spinning point, as shown, from dowel rods, and also the ring for the cord with which the top is to be spun. The handle may also be made at this time by drilling a hole into the end of a short dowel and driving into it a heavy piece of wire. Now bore a hole through the three disks. This hole must be exactly in the center and must be at right angles to the face of the disks. Glue the point and spindle in place as shown. Clean with sand paper and bind the edge of the disk with paper or cloth to hide the lead rim and also to prevent its becom- ing loose. Color disks, bent wires and pieces of cardboard may be placed in the hollow of the spindle while the top is spinning, and will produce wonderful and beautiful forms, which are all due to the persistence with which the eye retains an impression. LOOMS. Cigar- Box T^oom.^ — Figure A represents the lines to be drawn on the cover of a cigar box, which, when sawed out, will form the uprights for supporting the rollers. The circle is to be notched and used as a ratchet when fastened by means of brads to the end of one or both of the rollers. A nail driven through the upright to engage the teeth of the ratchet wheel serves to admit of tightening and winding of the fabric. The roller may be made from dowel rods or broom handles. Figure B represents the best design we have seen for a Weav- ing Shuttle. It is easily made of thin wood, either basswood or a piece of a cigar box. The curved arms at the top will spring sufficiently apart to admit of winding the yarn. The length of the shuttle should be somewhat greater than the width of the loom. 150 TiiK Card. — Figure C may be made of strawboard or wood. Its length should be less than the distance between the uprights of the loom, in order that it may be used to press together the cross strands of the fabric while weaving. The distance between the holes in the card is about %". No explanation is necessary for the making of the first loom because of its simplicity. 160 RUSTIC WORK. In presenting the following suggestions for rustic work I have in mind the value, in connection with the Nature Study, of bring- ing the products of that study into the school room, and instead 161 of throwing them away as valueless after study and discussion, to use the withered twigs, acorns and leaves for decoration and con- struction. The tools (a knife and a hammer) necessary for this work are so few and simple that almost any school can have them and the work is of such a nature that it may be carried on in the ordinary school room. 162 SUGGESTIONS FOR RUSTIC WORK. The first is a design for an easel which is to be made of twigs which have been whittled flat on one side. The second is a news- paper or music rack made of branches, which are left round with the bark on and merely cut to length and nailed together. No dimensions are given, the intention being that the children will make the objects of such a size as will meet the requirements for practical use. The rack may be made as small as the easel and used for holding envelopes or postal cards or it maybe made three or four feet high and used for holding music or newspapers. The flower basket is to be made from branches or twigs flat- tened as in the easel and can be any size from six inches to three feet high according to its intended use, in the house or on the lawn. Thoroughly dry twigs are better than green branches for rustic work. The umbrella stand is to be made of rather large branches, nailed together as shown, the lower ends being firmly driven into holes previously bored through the upper base piece. The two hexa- gons which form the base are to be screwed together from under- neath. No dimensions are given, as it is expected that each child will work out the proportions for himself. The following is a list of objects which may prove suggestive for rustic work : Ladder, stands for flower pots, saw-horse, fruit basket, pic- ture frame, frame or trellis for vines, chair, either garden or fold- ing, garden seat, garden table, three legged stool, hanging basket, sponge rack, waste paper basket, dog kennel, bird house and shoe box. The latter may be made from any old soap or starch box and covered with split twigs; it is then a rather ornamental piece of furniture. WIRE WORK. The wire required for this work is tinned-iron wire, No. 20, S. W. G. (standard wire gauge). The tinned wire costs slightly more than either black or bright wire, but is by far the best for children's work because it does not rust easily. Wire is sold in coils, on spools or in bundles of straight pieces. The latter is the 103 best for our use for we will not have to straighten it as would be necessary with coiled wire. Many useful as well as ornamental articles canibe made from wire, and, because of its cheapness and because only one tool is required for its nranipulation, wire work forms a most useful sub- ject for manual training exercises. The Pliers. — This tool is a pair of pincers for cutting, hold- ing and bending the wire. There are several kinds, but a combi- nation of three kinds is most suitable for our work. It has a cut- ting edge that enables us to cut the wire to any desired length; it has flat jaws for holding the wire and for bending angles, and it has a round nose for bending curves. Each pupil should be provided with a pair of pliers and short piece of wire. The first lesson should consist in the practice of forming such shapes as A, B, C and D, and also the loops (Fig. 5) which are used in joining parts of a completed object. T^ROhi'T ^lE^. fl > ( Vicj.S. 164 Fig. I represents the shape to be bent for a book support and its application is shown in Fig. 2. The size will be determined by the work to be held by the support. Fig. 3 and Fig. 4 show the drawing- and picture of a hanging letter rack, made from two pieces of wire joined t)y loops, bent as- in Fig. 5. Fig. 6 represents a wire rack for holding three test tubes. If you are using test tubes in your nature study work you will appre- ciate the value of this rack as a constructive exercise. 165 Fig. 7 shows a very simple pen or pencil rack, which is cap- able of great variation in design, and I would recommend that, if made by the class, each child plan the shape to which the legs are to be bent. Fig. 8 is the most complex form we have yet attempted. It represents a wire puzzle, the feat being to remove the heart with- out bending any of the wires or opening the loops. Loops A and B are to be made small, just large enough to admit the straight piece of wire. Loops C and D are to be made large enough for the passage of the U shaped part of the heart (E), but C should not be large enough to allow D to pass through it. Fig. 9 represents a bill or memorandum file made of wire and either wood or pasteboard for a base. The two pieces for the base are hollowed in the center to take the loop of wire which holds the spindle vertically; the two pieces for the base are to be fastened together with glue. 166 VENETIflN IFtON WQHK. c rig J. Forms. Fiq 2 . FfdunctMut. Fiq 3- Cai'irinq Set 5ta.ncl. ©1 i® I i 6 r^6 T'vg' 6". Cancllesticl\. Fi^ 7- Flciver Pot ^tonc/ Ft a S. Teu Pot ^tand. Fl(f 6. Ha,tging Basifet rig /O Picture Frame, ' II " ,, " ,1 " ■ I I I II I I I I II "TT ro lajjjjl^ while there is no pitch at all; the angle on each side being the same, forms the ^^peg tooth,^^ which is best adapted to cutting soft, wet and fibrous woods, and used principally as a buck saw. In all cases, the size and length of teeth depend largely upon the duty required; a long tooth has the demerit of being weak and liable to spring, but the merit of giving a greater clearance to the saw-dust. The throat space in front of each tooth must be large enough to contain the dust of that tooth from one stroke; the greater the feed, the deeper the dust chamber required, or, more teeth. When the teeth are fine, the shape of the throat is of special interest. The first point to be observed in the selection of a saw is to see that it "hangs" right. Grasp it by the handle and hold it in position for working, to see if the handle fits the hand properly. These are points of great importance for comfort and utility. A handle should be symmetrical, and the lines as perfect as any drawing. Many handles are made of green wood; they soon shrink and become loose, the screws standing above the wood. An unseasoned handle is liable to warp and throw the saw out of shape. The next thing in order is to try the blade by springing it, seeing that it bends regularly and evenly from point to butt in proportion as the width and gauge of the saw varies. If the blade is too heavy in comparison to the teeth, the saw will never give satisfaction, because it will require more labor to use it; the thinner you can get a stiff saw the better; it makes less kerf and takes less muscle to drive it. This principle applies to the well- ground saw. There is less friction on a narrow true saw than on a wide one; you will get a smaller portion of blade, but you will save much unnecessary labor at a very little loss of the width. See that it is well set and sharpened and has a good crowning breast; place it at a distance from you and get a proper light on it, by which you can see if there is any imperfection in grinding or hammering. We should invariably make a cut before purchas- ing a saw, even if we had to carry a board to the hardware store. Saws are set on a stake or small anvil with a hammer; a highly tempered saw takes three or four blows, as it is apt to break by attempting to set it with but one blow. This is a severe test, and no tooth ought to break afterwards in setting, nor will it, if the 209 mechanic adopts the proper method. The saw that is easily filed and set is easily made dull. As a rule, saws" are set more than is necessary, and if more attention was paid to keeping points of teeth well sharpened, any well-made saw would run with very little set, and there would be fewer broken ones. The principal trouble is that too many try to get part of the set out of the body of the plate, while the whole of the set should be on the teeth. Setting below the root of the tooth distorts and strains the saw-plate, which may cause a full-tempered cast-steel blade to crack and eventually break at this spot, and is always an injury to the saw, even if it does not crack or break. The teeth of a hand-saw should be filed so true that, on hold- ing it up to the eye and looking along its edge, it will show a central groove down which a fine needle will slide freely the entire length; this groove must be angular in shape and equal on each side, or the saw is not filed properly and will not run true. u y Fig. lo. Fic;. ii. Fic. 12. Fic,. 13. Fig 10 shows how the groove should appear on looking down the edge of the saw; the action should be such that the bottom of kerf will present the appearance as shown in Fig. ii, and not like Fig. 12; the cutting action is as shown in Fig. 13, the cutting be- ing done with the outside of tooth, the fibre of the wood is severed in the two places and the wood is crumbled out from point to point by the thrust of saw. The proper amount of bevel to give the teeth h very im- portant, as is demonstrated by the above figures, for if too much bevel is given, the points will score so deeply that the fibres severed from the main body will not crumble out as severed, but be re- moved by continued rasping, particularly in hard woods, as they require less bevel, as well as pitch, than soft wood. Fig. 14, shows a six-point cross-cut saw filed with a medium amount of bevel on front or face of tooth, and none on the back. 210 This tooth is used in buck saws, on hard wood, and for general sawing of woods of varying degrees of tenacity. This style of Fig. dressing is the best, but a number of saws each having teeth suited to its particular work, will be found more advantageous than try- ing to make one saw serve for all kinds of hand saw work. We will now consider the cross-cut saw tooth, in regard to rake or pitch; this being one of the most important features, too much care cannot be taken to have the correct amount of pitch 211 for the duty required. To illustrate this Fig. 15 represents a board, across which we wish to make a deep mark or score with the point of a knife; suppose we hold the knife nearly perpen- dicular as at B, it is evident it will push harder and will not cut as smoothly as if it was inclined forward as at A\ it follows then that the cutting edge of a cross-cut saw should incline forward as at C, rather than stand perpendicular as at D. Fig. 16. Too much hook or pitch, and too heavy a set are very <:ommon faults, not only detrimental to good work but ruinous to the saw; the first, by having a large amount of pitch, the saw takes hold so keenly that frequently it ^ 'hangs i/p*^ suddenly in the thrust — the result, a kinked or broken blade; the second, by having too much set, the strain caused by the additional and unnecessary amount of set is out of proportion to the strength ■of the blade, and is broken in the same manner. The most general amount of pitch used is 60°, though this may be varied a little more or less to advantage, as occasion may demand. The next point to be considered is the bevel, or fleam of the point. In Figs. 16, 17 and 18, the filer, as in all cases, files irom the heel to the point, which is the only correct way. The file is supposed to be horizontal to the perpendicular of the side of saw, and on an angle of about 45° longitudinally with the length, measuring from file line toward heel. 212 Fig. i6 is a five-and-a-half-point cross-cut saw showing the same amount of fleam front and back; this saw is best suited for Fig. 17. 213 work in soft wood, and where rapid, rather than fine work is required. A shows the position of the file, B an exaggerated view of shape of point, and Cthe shape of point. Fig. 17 is a seven-point saw for medium hard woods, illus- trated in same manner as Fig. 10. This tooth has less fleam on the back, which gives a shorter bevel to point, as at C. Fig. 18 is a still finer saw, having ten points to the inch. This saw has no fleam on back, the result being very noticeable at C and B. This style of point is for hard wood. It will be seen that the bevel on the front of teeth in Figs. 16, 17 and 18 is the same, but the bevel of the point looking the length of saw is quite different, consequent upon the difference in the angles of the backs. ^JvM surface. The blade is therefore ground straight across like Fig. 28. Fig. 28. SHARPENING PLANES. Note. — If the blade of a plane has its edge injured like Fig. 29 it Fig. 29. must be ground on the grindstone. The little notches in the blade are called *'nicks" and the blade must be ground until they disappear. In placing the blade on the grindstone it must be held on the stone at an angle of about 30^ as in Fig. 30. Fig. 30. 220 After grinding on the grindstone the edge of the blade is too rough to use and it must be rubbed on the oil-stone. First rub the newly ground or slanting face. To do this the blade must be held slanting as shown in Fig. 31. Fig. 31. When the slanting side has been rubbed there will be little particles of steel forming a burr (called a wire edge) on the flat side. This burr must now be rubbed away and to do this the blade must be held flat as shown in Fig. 32. kmmmmm im-m- Fig. 32. After the blade has been made as sharp as possible on the oil-stone it must -be stropped on the block covered with leather provided for that purpose. (See page 247.) 221 BORING TOOLS. Note. — The tools used for making holes are the brace and bit. The brace or bit-stock is shown below, Fig. ^^. Fig. 33. There are a large number of different kinds of bits used for various purposes, the most common of which are given below. AWE. Counterain^. Aa^e)" Bit. ^g^ng/ttttm^m ^creu/ JJfuxer Bit. Gitnict Bit- Fig. 34. DIRECTIONS FOR SHARPENING AN AUGER BIT. A. hereto Point B. Outside of Lifi C.Sfiuiz U Li/i F. Insidt oj Lit G.Tiu'ist A. 3c;-ea) Point... B. Outi'tdc of Lip c. Bfiu.^' D. L'lfi L. 3id& Li/3 F. /jiside of Li/i G. Fcblst Fiq. /. Fiq.E. 1. For sharpening an Auger Bit, a four inch, half round, dead- smooth file should be used. 2. To sharpen the lip, hold the Bit firmly in the left hand with the screw point down on edge of bench. Slant the Bit slightly to the left. File from the inside of the Lip, back, being careful to preserve the original bevel. File lightly until a slight burr, or feather edge, is thrown upon the outside of the Lip. Remove this burr by a slight brush of the file, and a keen cutting edge will be produced. Except for removing burr never use a file on the out- side of the Lip. If the Bit has a side Lip, (see Fig. 2 E)'this is next sharpened by filing from the inside, care being taken to preserve original bevel. 3. To sharpen the spur, hold the Bit in the left hand with the Twist resting on edge of bench. Turn the Bit around until the Spur you wish to sharpen comes uppermost. File side of Spur, next to Screw, keeping the original bevel. File lightly, until a burr is thrown upon the outside of the Spur. Remove this burr by a careful brush of the file; a fine cutting edge will be the result. Never use a file on the outside of the Spur except for the above purpose. Great care should be taken to sharpen the opposite Lips and Spurs alike. 223 THE HAMMER AND MALLET. Pupils are apt to use these tools interchangeably and they should be made to understand the use of each at once. The ham- mer should be carefully examined and the following points brought out. Shape and use of the claw. Reason for the rounded face. Reason for the shape of the handle. Great stress should be laid on the proper handling of the hammer as pupils nearly always hold it too near the head. The foregoing paragraphs cover the points that it is desirable to emphasize, but the teacher should be familiar with the more extended treatment given in the books of reference. Special tools as the rabbet plane, etc., should be explained as used. It has been found that a very good method of impressing the points on the pupils is to give the instruction as outlined at first orally and at the next lesson dictate the portions marked ''Note." This will teach the pupils the spelling of the names of the tools and the other words that are unusual. The sketches given should be made as far as possible from the object, but where the sketch is too difficult as in the case of the section of the plane the pupil should copy the teacher's sketch, which should be put on the blackboard. All the sketches given should be put on the blackboard by the teacher, and if note books are not kept the sketches should be left on the board as long as possible in order to familiarize the pupils with the spelling and form of the terms. 224 THE FILE AND FILING. W. H. VAN DERVOORT. A piece of high-grade crucible steel, forged to shape, ground, cut and carefully tempered, forms that tool so indispensable to the mechanic — the file. The file maker is no longer compelled to forge his blanks from stock of unsuitable proportion, but receives from the steel manu- facturers stock of the required cross-section to make all standard shapes. This reduces the forging to a minimum, it being only necessary to cut the stock to the required lengths, to draw down the point and form the tang, the latter operation being very rapidly performed under power hammers. The National Association of File Manufacturers prescribe to the steel makers the forms of cross-sections they require. Conse- quently, all makers of file steel can furnish any sections correct to ....... ^ Fig- / gauge. In Fig. i are shown the correct cross-sections of steel for flat files, even inch lengths, from 4 to 16 inches. In Fig. 2 are shown the cross-sections of file steel for all the shapes in gen- eral use. Each section is for an 8" file, full scale. The names of the files made from steel of these sections are, referring to the numbers of the figure: i, ''Hand"; 2, "Flat"; 3, "Mill"; 4, "Pillar"; 5, "Warding"; 6, "Square"; 7, "Round"; 8, "Half- round"; 9, "Three-square"; 10, "Knife"; 11, "Pit-saw"; 12, "Crossing"; 13, "Tumbler"; 14, "Cross-cut"; 15, "Feather- edge"; 16, "Cant-saw"; 17, "Cant-file"; 18, "Cabinet"; 19, "Shoe-rasp"; 20, "Rasp." It will be noticed that many of these files are named from the form of their cross-section, and that those so named are the ones most used for general work; while the others receive their names from the special character of the work they are expected to be used upon. It will also be noted that the stock for files of rec-^ tangular cross section may be classified as to thickness as follows: ''Mill," ''Square," "Pillar," "Hand," "Flat," "Rasp" and "Warding." As to width, "Hand" is the widest; "Flat, ""Rasp," "Mill" and "Warding" are the same width; "Pillar" materially narrower, and "Square" the narrowest. ■ The "Half-round" is not a full semi-circle, the arc being about one-third of the full circle. On the other hand, the "Pit-saw" is a full half circle in section. The "Three-square," "Cant-saw" and "Cant-file" differ in •section in their angles, the former having equal angles, 60^ and 226 equal sides, the next 35 , 35 and iio angles, and the latter 30^, 30^ and 120^ angles. The length of a file is measured from point to heel, and does not include the tang. The tang is usually made spike shaped to receive a plain ferrule handle. Some makers modify the form of tang to fit patented handles. As forged, the blank for a *'Hand" file. Fig. 3, is parallel 'in 'thickness from heel to middle and tapered from middle to point, making the point about one-half the thickness of the stock. The edges of the blank are usually left parallel. They are, how- ever, sometimes drawn in slightly at the point. Fig. 4 The **Flat" file blank, Fig. 4, is parallel in both of its longitu- dinal sections from heel to middle and tapered in both sections from middle to point, the thickness of point being about two- thirds and width about one-half that of the stock. For the "Mill" file the blank is parallel in thickness from heel to point, and usually tapered to about three-fourths the width of the stock. The ''Mill" file is often made blunt-that is, of equal width and thickness throughout its length. The blank for the ''Warding" file is tapered in width from heel to point and is of uniform thickness. Aside from width, the ''Pillar" file is similar to the "Hand" file. The "Pillar" file is. 227 also made in ''narrow" and extra narrow patterns, the extra nar- row approximating a square in section. The ''Three-square," "Square" and "Round" are also made in slim and blunt forms. The "Slim" is a file of regular length, but smallef cross-section, and the "Blunt" of equal cross-section from heel to point, being either "slim" or regular. After forging, the blanks are thoroughly annealed in anneal- ing furnaces, the operation taking from twenty-four to thirty-six hours. When the blank comes from the furnace, it is twisted and scaly, and must be subjected to a "straightening" process, after which the scale is removed by "grinding" on very heavy grind- stones. The blanks are next draw-filed to make them perfectly smooth and even, after which they are ready for the cutting. Files are classified under three heads — '.'Single cut," "Double- cut" and "Rasp." The "Single-cut" file — or "Float," as its coarser cuts are sometimes called — has surfaces covered with teeth made by single rows of parallel chisel cuts extending across the faces at an angle of from 65° to 85° with the length of the file. The size of this angle depends on the form of the file and the nature of the work it is to perform. The "Double-cut" file has two rows of chisel cuts crossing each other. The first row is, for general work, at an angle with the length of the file of from 40^ to 45^, and the second row from 70^ to 80°. In the "Double-cut" finishing files the angle of the first cut is about 30°, and the second from 80^ to 87° with the axis of the file. The "Double-cut" gives a broken tooth, the sur- face of the file being made up of a large number of small, oval- pointed teeth inclined toward the point, and resembling in shape the cutting end of a diamond pointed cold chisel. In the rasp the teeth are entirely disconnected from each other. They are round on top, and are formed by raising, with a punch, small portions of stock from the surface of the blank. The machinist seldom has use for a rasp, as they are intended for filing the softer materials, as wood and leather. The regular grades of cut upon which the coarseness of a file depends are "Rough," "Coarse," "Bastard," "Second-cut," "Smooth" and "Dead-smooth." The "Rough" file is usually single cut and the "Dead-smooth" double cut. The other grades 228 are made in both double and single cut. These grades of coarseness are, however, only comparable when files of the same length are considered, as the longer the file in any cut, the fewer the teeth per inch of length. Fig. 5. This is shown in Fig. 5, where a 4' and 12" ^'Bastard" file are placed side by side for comparison. The relative degrees of coarseness for the different cuts are F/G.h. , SINGLE CUT. Bfi^TAHD. SKCOND CUT. FIG. 7. DOUBLE CUT. SMOOTH. shown, for the ''Single-cut" in Fig. 6, and the ''Double-cut" in Fig. 7, a portion of an 8" file being taken in each case. The value of a file depends entirely upon three things — qual- ity of stock from which it is made, the form of its teeth and the temper. The stock should be of the very best, as tool steel is seldom put to any use where its lasting qualities are more severely taxed. 229 As to the forming of the teeth: It is only within the past few- years that machine-cut files have come prominently upon the mar- ket, it being generally believed that a file to be first-class must be hand cut. The difference between these cuts is so slight that only an expert, with the files, could tell, with any degree of cer- tainty, which was hand and which machine cut. Up to the time of the perfecting of the increment cut file, the great trouble with machine-cut files was in the perfect uniformity of the teeth. In a hand-cut file the width and spacing of the teeth depend entirely upon the skill of the workman; and no matter how carefully he does the cutting, irregularities of a thousandth of an inch, more or less, will occur in the spacing and in the angle at which he holds the broad chisel that forms the teeth. These slight variations will cause the teeth to be of uneven height and irregular outline. These irregularities are now very faithfully reproduced in the increment, machine-cut file. It is difficult to make a file having teeth of uniform height and outline, as in the case of the ordinary machine-cut file, take hold of the work. The reason for this is that so many teeth present themselves to the work surface that the workman must exert great pressure on the file to make them bite. With the file having teeth of irregular height, fewer will come in contact with the work, and the pressure required to make them take hold will be correspondingly light. As these long teeth wear down, the shorter ones will begin to do work; but the file will, of course, not cut so freely as when new. Again, in using the file with teeth of uniform height, it will, when pushed to the work, produce, at the start, grooves which will grow deeper as the file is moved forward, and, due to the broad cut, will be quite certain to vibrate and ''chat- ter." On the other hand, the uneven teeth of the hand and incre- ment cut files will so adapt themselves to the surface of the work that only a few teeth at any particular point in the length of the file will cut. The metal left between these teeth will be removed by the teeth following, perhaps a dozen or more rows of teeth being required to finish the cut started by one. This is shown, for a "Single-cut" file, in Fig. 9, where the several irregular lines rep- resent as many tooth outlines drawn on an exaggerated scale. . These teeth come successively to the work, and if all their high 230 points were brought together they would form a straight line, as shown, which would be the outline of the resulting cut. Fig. y. The cutting of an increment cut file consists in the forming of the teeth by a chisel operated in a machine, and so controlled that the spacing between teeth may be increased or decreased, the same being subject to a small amount of irregularity, as well as a slight variation in the angle of the teeth with each other. As manufac- tured by one company, the spacing of the teeth from point to mid- dle is increased, and from middle to heel decreased. Another leading manufacturer increases the pitch from point to heel. It will be understood that the increment of space is very small. In a 12" < 'Bastard" file, having feeth spaced progressively wider from point to heel, the pitch of teeth at heel is about .01 of an inch greater than at the point, which makes the average increase per tooth about .000030 of an inch. In machine-made files the cutting is very rapidly performed, the chisel receiving from 500 to 3,500 blows per minute, depending on the weight of the file being cut. The blank is cut from point to heel, and when turned over is placed on lead strips to protect the teeth already formed. After cutting, the files are inspected and assorted as to quality. They are then tempered, any material change in shape due to hardening being rectified at the time of tempering, after which they are ready for final inspection. This consists of trying each file on a piece of hard steel and making sure that it is free from temper cracks. They are next coated with oil and wrapped in oiled paper, to prevent rusting, after which they are packed in boxes, ready for the market. The teeth of a file remove metal by a shearing cut. This is 231 most apparent in the '*Single-cut" files, where the teeth have lateral length; but is equally true of the pointed tooth of the ''Double-cut" file. A file bites freer on work having a narrow surface than a wide, because fewer teeth come in contact, at any point in the stroke, with the work surface, and consequently less pressure is required to make the file bite. On very thin work the teeth of a ''Double- cut" file bite so freely that the danger of breaking them is great. For work of this character the long tooth of the "Single-cut" is best adapted, as its form gives it greater strength, and the shear of the cut is smoother, one tooth coming into cut as another leaves. On the broad surfaces, however, the teeth of the "Double- cut" have the advantage. A file is "tapered" when it is thinner at the point than at the middle, and is "full tapered" when thinner at point and heel than at the middle. The reasons for thus tapering a file are, first, to reduce the number of teeth that come in contact with the work, and, second, to enable the operator to file a straight or plane sur- Fig. /O. face. The first reason is evident; the second is shown in Fig. lo. If the file is perfectly straight, as shown in i, the motion in order to produce a plane surface on the work must be absolutely parallel to this surface. This the most expert mechanic can scarcely be expected to do, and the result will be work rounded at the edges A and B. If the file is tapered, its surface will be slightly convex, as shown in 2, and if moved entirely across the surface, straight work will result. The workman will experience little difficulty in accomplishing this, as he can allow the motion of the file to de- 282 viate slightly from a straight line, and still not cut away the edges A and B. If the file is not moved clear across, the work, a con- cave surface will of course result. The tempering is certain to distort the file somewhat, and it will, as a result, usually be found to have more ''belly," as this convex is usually called, on one side than on the other. It is the side having the most ''belly," and the highest part of that, that the careful mechanic will always select for use in his most partic- ular work. This high point he readily finds by running his eye along the edge from point to heel. In filing the non-fibrous metals, as cast iron and brass, sharper files are required than for work on steel and wrought iron. Broad surfaces require, as indicated above, sharper files than narrow ones. The systematic workman will therefore use his new files on broad surfaces of cast iron and brass, next on the narrow and when dulled to such an extent as not to readily take hold of these metals, he will use them for work on wrought iron and steel, and finally, when too dull for efficient work, may be used for smooth- ing up and removing the hard scale from castings and forgings. A new or good file should never be used on rough castings, as the scale of cast iron is often very hard, and will ruin the file after a few strokes. The edge of the file can be used to advantage for this work, as it is seldom used for other purposes. When the file is pushed endwise across the work, it is called cross filing. The work is performed on the forward stroke and the file released from all cutting duty on the return stroke. It should not, however, on the return stroke be raised from the work, except at such times as may be necessary to examine the condi- tion of the surface. As the file is pushed forward, it should be given a slight side motion, and after a number of strokes the direction should be changed, so as to make the file marks cross at quite an angle. This will increase the cutting of the file, and will keep the work true by preventing deep grooving. The handle of the file in cross filing should be held in the right hand, preferably with the end of the handle seated against the palm and the thumb extended along the top. The point is held under the ball of the left thumb, the fingers pressing upward against the lower side. In using thin files the downward pressure 233 at heel and point may spring them until they are concave instead of convex to the work surface. In this case the point must be so held between thumb and fingers that the fingers exert an upward pressure under the point and the thumb a downward pressure a few inches back from the point, which will tend to make the file more convex to -the work surface. It is a tiresome way to hold the tool, but will at times be found necessary. In filing broad surfaces the work should be placed low, thus enabling the operator to reach all points of its surface and to put the required pressure on the file. For work held in the vise or on the bench, the surface being filed should be at about the height of the workman's elbow, so as to give the forearm holding the file handle a nearly horizontal motion. If the work is fine and deli- cate, it is preferable to hold it higher, as it can then be more readily inspected. In draw filing the motion of the file is at right angles to its length. It is firmly held in both hands at heel and point, the handle usually being removed. In draw filing the metal is re- moved much slower than in cross filing, with the same cut of file; but the surface left is smoother, is not so apt to be scratched in the operation, and will take a better finish. Draw filing requires less skill than cross filing, the beginner being able to produce very creditable work after comparatively little practice. Cross filing, on the other hand, requires skill and experience when smooth, plane surfaces are to be made. The character of the work and the surface required will deter- mine the coarseness of the file the mechanic will select for per- forming it. The ''bastard," "second-cut" and ''smooth" are the cuts most used by the machinist on general work. The "rough" and "coarse" cuts are used mostly on the softer metals where a large amount of stock is to be removed quickly. The fine-cut files will take hold of the harder metals better than the coarser files, and will leave the surface smoother. The file must be kept free from the cuttings which lodge be- tween the teeth. When lodged too firmly to be removed by tap- ping the edge of the file against the vise back, they should be scraped out with a soft wire file card or brush. When working on wrought iron or steel, cuttings will lodge so firmly that they can- 234 not be brushed out, but must be picked out with soft iron scorer. They will often project above the teeth and cause deep scratches in the work. This annoying trouble is called "pinning." It may be lessened somewhat by thoroughly chalking the surface of the file, which also prevents its cutting so freely. When filing work in a lathe, care must be taken not to run the surface filed too fast. It must be remembered that, ordinarily, the motion of the file to the work is comparatively slow — say, forty strokes per minute, of perhaps 8 inches each. As the file is cut- ting only about one-half the time, the actual velocity of cut in this case would be not far from 50 feet per minute. The inter- mittent motion of the cut prevents the teeth becoming extremely hot. In filing revolving work, the number of strokes per minute will not be so great, but the length of stroke will be somewhat in- creased; so the actual cutting speed due to the motion of the file will not be much less than in cross filing. To this must be added the speed of the work, which will vary from 50 to 100 feet per minute. It will be understood that, in filing stationary work a comparatively short length of the file's surface is cutting, whereas in filing rotating, work, nearly all of the file's length is brought into use at each stroke, which offsets largely the disastrous effects on the teeth due to too high a cutting velocity. The file must not Fig.//. Fig. 12. be held stationary, allowing the work to revolve to it, as in that case a few teeth do all the cutting and leave a grooved surface. As the file is moved forward, it should, as in cross filing, be given 235 a small amount of lateral motion, first to the right and then to the left, causing the file marks to cross at quite an abrupt angle. Rotating work should be filed as little as possible, in order to ob- tain the desired finish, it being almost impossible to retain the cylindrical truth of the work if filed too much. A safety edge on a file is one having no teeth. The safety edge enables the mechanic to file one of two surfaces A, intersect- ing at right angles, without injuring the other B, as shown in Fig. II. The safety edge on a new file should always be passed over a grindstone or emery wheel before depending on its ''safety," as in the cutting of the sides the stock is expanded over the edge, making a slight concave, as shown at A, in Fig. 12. While the points of the teeth do not, in cutting, form out full over the safety edge, the roots of the teeth do, and they are very apt to scratch the surface the edge is expected to protect. A very satisfactory safety edge is made by grinding the teeth from the edge of a full cut file. ^ y ' y irr'illllllll Illllllllllllllllllllll^ llHiJJitiijIlllllllllllllllllllll"""' y y' _3^- V Fig- 13. When a large amount of metal is to be removed quickly, the file may be used at different angles, as shown in Fig. 13. This de- creases the area of cut and increases the bite of the file. A new file should never be used for this purpose, as the keen edge of the teeth would be broken off. All work surfaces, especially if narrow, should be held as near the top of the vise jaws as possible, thus preventing vibration. Good workmen will keep the files they are using in a rack or drawer, so arranged that they cannot come in contact with each 236 other. When we consider the amount of metal a file will remove under favorable conditions, we are impressed with the expense of the tool when improperly used. Far too many are ruined through carelessness. THE TOOL HOUSE AT HOME. The following article we copy from the July, 1895, "Cen- tury." It is by Bayard T. Putnam : "I wish to present a plea for a 'tool house' at home for the young people, and one well stocked with the best tools. A great deal of creditable work has doubtless been done with a jack-knife and an old cross-cut saw, reinforced, possibly, with a half-worn- out smoothing plane, a rusty bit or two, and, perhaps, a chisel; and a certain amount of ingenuity has unquestionably been developed by the adaptation of these tools to the work in hand. But, after all, the best that can usually be said of such work is that it is very well done considering the means. The edges are rarely square and true, the joints are rarely well made, and the time con- sumed on the "job" is apt to be unduly prolonged, so that the work, if intended for something more than a mere makeshift, be- comes wearisome before it is completed. A necessary conse- quence is that the boy (or girl, for there is no reason why a girl should be ignorant of the use of tools) becomes discouraged with his work, and decides that his forte is in some other direction. If on the other hand, a boy once becomes familiar with the use of good tools — tools such as ah artisan would use for the same work — the knowledge stands. by him, and is a source of constant pleas- ure and often of some profit. In a few words, to use a Western expression, the best tools ought not to be 'too rich for the blood' of any intelligent American boy." WORDS OF WISDOM. We feel justified in the above title because the following was not written by ourselves but "cribbed" from some one greater. With the exception of the first paragraph the article is anonymous. "One year's faithful practice at a mechanical employment 237 before the age of ten, will make a youth more efficient in future than two years after that time." — Spencer. ''The above is good advice: If acted upon with boys, it would produce strong minds, and strong healthy bodies. Would you cultivate the understanding of your boy, cultivate the powers it is to gavern; exercise his mind and body at the same time in a use- ful manner — for the grand secret of education is to contrive that the exercise of the body and that of the mind may always serve as relaxation to each other. If one-tenth of the time which is em- ployed in practising gymnastic exercises were directed to the acquisition of adequate industrial habits, the physical faculties of pupils would be as well developed and their power incomparably increased. Skill in the use of tools is of incalculable advantage. It gives useful employment to many an otherwise idle hour. It prompts one to add a thousand little conveniences to the house, which, but for this skill would never be made. In a word, it is carrying out, in a fuller sense, the design of the Creator, when he implanted the faculty of constructiveness within us. A bent for mechanical pursuits usually manifests itself at a very early period in life; the inclination of the six-year-old boy to hammer and pound, to tear open toys and clocks to 'see what makes 'em go,' all so annoying to the careful parent, may be taken as indications of latent constructive genius, although now manifested in a very destructive form. In the youth the mechanical bias becomes still more apparent, manifesting itself in attempts to construct wagons, boats, small engines, etc. With such a boy a mechanical educa- tion is no doubtful experiment." Give your boys a box of good tools, and if possible a room or place for a workshop. Employed in it, they will not only be kept out of mischief, but they will be strengthening their muscles, exer- cising their mental powers, and fitting themselves for greater use- fulness, when they shall be called upon to take their places in the ranks of men. 238 A POT OF GLUE. Many men use glue all their lives and know but little of where it is made, or how. We will tell what we can, and that is not much after all — for it is an old saying, among both manufacturers and merchants, that the more you have to do with glue, the less you think you know about it. There are three leading kinds: First, Hide Glue, which is made of the hides or sinews of cattle and such beasts. The pieces of hide cut off by the butcher and tanner, which are of no use in making leather, are soaked in lime water a longer or shorter time, according to their condition. The lime eats away the fatty or partly decayed matter, leaving the glue substance uninjured, pro- vided the process is not continued too long. This stock is then carefully washed and put into large kettles, where the glue liquor is readily boiled out and the insoluble fibre sinks to the bottom. The glue liquor is poured into pans, where it cools and hardens and is just such a substance as calves'-foot jelly when served on the table. When cold, the jelly is turned out of the pans and sliced, and the sheets laid on nets and dried. The second kind — Bone Glue — is made of the largest bones of cattle, and only differs from the other method in softening the stock by an acid, instead of a lime solution. Sixty per cent, of bone is lime, the other forty per cent, (or thereabouts) is glue. The third kind of glue is made from the feet of cattle and hogs; their hoofs contain a large proportion of glue matter, and this is simply washed and then boiled out. As to which is best of the kinds mentioned, it is hard to decide between the first and second, the hide stock and the acid-treated bone stock glues. The greater purity and beauty belong most surely to the bone stock glue, and for work requiring delicacy as well as strength, it is unequalled. But the acid left in it, and which it is hard to wholly eradicate, qualifies its use for many purposes. In stiffening straw goods and finishing silks, and for very fine-grained and hard-surfaced wood work, it is admirable. But, if we had no bone glue at all, we could get along very Avell. What would we do, however, if we had no glue made of 289 hide stock? Thick flowing or thin flowing, dark color or light, slow settling or quick, rigid or elastic, it embraces them all. It is an old saying ''that glue is the poor workman's best friend" — that means hide stock glue, which is the cheapest because it is the best. A great improvement was made twenty years ago, when a means of grinding glue and at nominal cost was devised. Ground glue is now extensively used. It is indeed not the poor workman's but the good workman's best friend. Now, a word as to the way to use glue. To begin with, glue is animal matter. A ham will keep a long time uncooked, but who would soak it over night and forget it the next day and expect to find the ham sweet; or who would soak and cook it in a pot where other hams have been cooked and the pot never cleaned? Such treatment of glue is unworkmanlike and wasteful. Then the glue maker knows when his glue is cooked enough, and that to cook it longer will hurt both its strength and color; yet many users think that they can cook glue for hours and get as good, or even better results. They really ought to soak and cook ahead just what they require, and use it as fresh as possible. If the glue is ground (as it should be) they can soak it in three min- utes, or dissolve more in the melted glue that is in the pot in one minute, and always have their melted glue at its best. We now come to a source of much trouble. Glue will not hold unless the pieces to be glued are put together while the glue is still hot and liquid. Its function is to sink into the fibres and grasp them, which it cannot do when chilled. In the Autumn, when cooler weather makes glue dry more quickly, we have com- plaints that the glue will not hold. A suggestion to the above effect is usually sufficient. Again take two woods: oak, which is close-grained, and pine, which is porous. One requires a thin- bodied and penetrating glue, to soak in and lay hold; the other needs a heavy-bodied glue, used thick; or the spongy wood will soak up the glue and leave nothing at all to hold with. CHEAP GLUES ARE NOT ECONOMICAL. The quality of glue is determined by the amount of water it will take, and glue is usually tested in this manner. Some of the 240 cheap common, glues will not take the equivalent of their own weight in water. The cheapest glue (No. 5) will take 4 oz. of water to one. The No. 10, from 5 to 6 oz. of water to one, and the No. 15 from 8 to 10 oz. of water to one of glue. The above extreme proportions would be modified by prac- tice, as different kinds of work require the glue to be thinner or thicker, as the case may be. It will, then, be readily understood that a pound of glue, costing 10 cents, and which will only make a quart of the prepared article, is more expensive than a glue, costing twice the amount, that will make two and one-half quarts, this leaving out consider- ation of the fact, that quantity for quantity, the higher-priced glue is much stronger and more durable, and in fact, more desir- able in every way. GROUND GLUE. In past years there has been among many users a prejudice, against ground glue; and there is some foundation for this pre- judice, as there are unscrupulous manufacturers who grind inferior glues as a means of hiding their defects. It is not easy to tell much about glue when ground, but it possesses several advantages over the sheet glue. It requires but a few minutes soaking to dissolve, and for those who use glue occasionally, it is an easy matter to prepare just the amount needed and no more. LIQUID GLUE. Fish Glues are applicable to all purposes for which glue is employed, and are amongst the strongest adhesives known. The advantages of liquid glues are found in the saving of labor, time and fuel necessary for preparing ordinary glues. To secure the best results, it should be applied with a short, stiff brush and rubbed off to a very thin coat. •-.Ml DESIGNS FOR EQUIPMENT OF A MANUAL TRAINING SHOP. Upon the following pages (241 to 271) are shown designs for apparatus which has been designed for use in the Chicago Ele- mentary Schools. TWO PUPIL BENCH. 242 I I § ^ « :S •« ^ ^ ; 3 " ^ ^'^ '<:?> R,ft,'?5k R,s 243 T7- '4' • j^- * € ' ■- . — ■Z8f *? ^J- Y ■p tofi to lie. tnaoie. of alter-nate stri/ia of cner.i-if and 3 fucd aixd ctourcUd tagtt/tei'. Stfi/iS to ie ix^ ine te 4e. made of /IsU. SacA dr'auref to be. fitted witk 2 AeiLvif Ai^aas dt-cnuei- /lutia aE 9Ft.- - l^H E3 SEL II 3/2 y 1 d W f.YfltIi Ut 24; FOUB PUPIL BENCH. /8' — ^ 24" *^ /S"- Njco 1 1 ■■;t- 1 c — 1 r: -^ 1 1 o '4> ■■■]:■ c^ ^ I V J ft j:/l . Toomeu DiS. 246 DESK COVER FOR PHIMAHY MMUM TH/ilNING. i -;- ; 20 -2J. ^eciion.'AB' to Nad and g/ue iAe /taHs iogelAtr^- Part 'n' ts to it made of AlafiU all ot kt>' /tarts to jlie luacte 0/ /'tite or W lulturood . A Metal C Umfl SuUaile />>- holding uro^^ ,n c/iie-ca.r'vinq is to he atlachecL- A W r,ra«^ nei nnian af frati fnttitMie K, VABNI^H CUP. ^^ctioix on (t Ltnt. /? IV Ev»NS BtL E.Vai^nt.rC Be 24^ ^mop. \ ^' L talktr [Belting \qlueoL(facc\'3ikc , rf )d Frnti Btl BENCH HOOK. 9f ^/r £■ i'Y f- f *- r 1. MaJfe cj- Anfd mafi/t, ana J fuefi, I'lHtiU u/itA tu/o cents-- of u/kit* sk^ila^. FmME FOR CU22 U3T^ -: j. , : N^ :::::::;; '../^^.:^V^'. '":::/\ K^ M it - 8- - - ;-*-;--» |;/ ^ i li j : i 1 1 G., 1 ; : i • i d Cut ua/a. ^ -^ ;S :2 ~5 V 0^ -I 't'-. .^.^ < 1 ■ -1 1 • ^ '^ , i i > ■<> ■^n,..^ 77>, ^.J D^L 248 uFi/iwiNQ BO Ann. A w v^.^ n^/ FOLDING 3HELL/iC anl GLUE TABLE. ■ ^J^^I^'x^'MafiU. Section through centr't. I: H J Gncn Z/es. 249 ^cr y'.'.'. \ ® i 'f / 7 ^ tj^ — f^ : ^ ^4r ^ecUoii o/casc on lint R'B ^aie J"= /£". Shouitng door in /losition. /J^" ^ JJelaUs of do. Coinpasi ^rosyjil. tl_ H_^.,^ rac/ia W^4 '^PlnSiZTZ- *5S7 ^ 1 -iL o A.. /z JC /^ i HmW/NG INSmUMENTTmY ^"""^ "'■•- cUo; on l,n^ Q-D Siuii § ii' \ I J CASE HOLDING a4 THRY^-. ne..^,„.ci k. iJ«'PHn../...^n.rr..„^ Case made of Whitewood, except h" strips at sides, marked Basswood. Bottom of Till made of i\" Basswood. Divisions and sides of ^" x i" Whitewood. Cut pieces as follows and nail and glue together as per drawing. 2 pieces 12^" long. 2 ^' ii«e" •' 2 << 3 " " I piece 1 1 34" long. I '^ 6 " " I '' 35/8" - I '' 2/8" - I '^ Ii" - 250 JJET/iIL2 OF GFIIND^TONE F(EST. Finis A ut F. ■ I "^1 I I H f \ \ \ *-/# T"" I i Ill j^'_ m\' j^^i^ ^J^ -( /c — T- — — ; *^ ^ -=lt John H Tcontq Pes 251 LOCKER CASE. 6ft ai fi m V :/ lA %, Section on /me A^. Prcuids Ca%k, witk 6 (oc/is Cofinv Na 068 ji to fit tnasTenftey of /lu/ii/s itenc/v. Aiso 6 et^OUf iatc/tes (s/tfiita jro.63oo. ^toc/j Asfv, 7'ittisU with ii£kt ftltef sKeilcLC a.nci one coat Wafintj Coach, Vafnisn/. Tkis urtfff to he fuafanteed not to sAftn/t of urCLfU fov one uca.r. TOOL CABINET sHEZTi^oj. A^r 71., \^.^. T' H,...,^^j n,^i^,,.. 252 C J-*- dite/s mscUe.. Sides •^' > Cnst to ie iiiiit oj^\luff >> mUk top a.n' d, TOOL CABINET 3HBET NO Z Sca.U 4r 3, \({Mf\t»u\ nil ^~ T'^^-^ATf T7...J-.. Tnni. r.fliRTNFT .,»rrrK„\ ^ IM i6 Muhc i UAc iJti —JeT— ^==di^ - ... - js - - -1- ^ -..J !•• Maht £ Uhc l/iLi 1 II- --^i^- 1 1 ll> Mahc S iiht r/lii. .^.f 1 1 II? fl n friiii (Iri -H- ^" - Muhc iO Ulte thL --i' If Maht /J i^-accs us c i<;<.e ^.je a^ uLo.c ... Vac a, a 7^ nruurer 8'^Druure,' 9^ H fi^urc^. 1 jScaU J6 3ije.. 1 4t ^ 1 i ■^ ^ * A J , '^ 3 • c 1 I'M ^" « i^ <0 > 4 SS to I ^ ^ * ^ jj 2 Spacer fen i ■^ ^ i'G.u,.. __,_ tO^and 11^ DroLw^rs. iZ^-^ J] rawer J3'^J3ruu,en 1 254 Ptam. ./ Drawer Etuis and aitita tt /it titadt of <^'Wiite^od - Bel tern of ^ ' Cornen q/ueit end nailui 3caU ^ Sijc. TOOL CABINET sheet no 6 fftyfiritm m TOOL C£3E. r'4i - f Crou,n. '^« ZSi ^i_^ ¥\ ii Tl m 2/.f V^? I ^ -J 1 1:^ Z6S- ! I ■ / /? r^a,„f^ De^LU, 255 DETJUL^ofTOOL C/12E. n S^' -Z'tjt ^ !1T.V i* LJ ./. <^ Ta»,ue.J flcjtg 25G DETAILB orTOOL CASE. i."8 4 ." ^,r^ -.-.•^-.-.-: 11 •*.! « „ 3 < >v « *- a'-» "■ . 1 .i ,1 "so -^^ 7 Scui^ / - ^^' J. ft Taamen De. DETAILS or TOOL CA2E -J Station of upfitf daoi-a. R%Ji 111 ioTraus iik<21'2i' ■i^m a Traua l,J,t. /A.s. ^^2.,-—^ I Gauge Arc .T /7 r^o.i.fi. z?ts.ui LIST OF TOOLS PROVIDED FOR IN TOOL CASE. 30 T. Squares. 30, 45^ Triangles. 30, 30 Triangles. 30 Drawing Boards. 30 Instrument Trays. 30 Smooth Planes. 30 Jack Planes. 30 Back Saws. 10 Panel Saws. 10 Rip Saws. 30, 12" Frame Saws. 30 Coping Saws. 30 Hammers. 10 Mallets. 10 Braces. 10 Screwdrivers. 30 Dividers. 30 Rulers. 30 Trysquares. 30 Chip-carving Knives. 30 Whittling Knives. 30, i" Chisels. 30, Yz" Chisels. 60 Files. 30 Marking Gauges. 3o> y^" Chisels. 30, %" Chisels. 30, y^" Chisels. 30, y?," Gouges. 30 Parting Tools. 30 Veining Tools. 30 Spoke Shaves. 10 Oilers. 10 Emery Stones. Sandpaper. Waste and Extra Tools. 258 SPECIFICATIONS FOR TOOL CASE. WOODWORK. Tool cases to be constructed as per drawings accompanying these specifications. The body of the cases to be made of clear Yellow Pine throughout, except the stiles and rails of doors, which are to be made of ''A Select" White Pine. Doors to be made with raised panels and stiles and rails to be moulded, as shown in drawings, all to be mortised, glued and wedged together. All shelves, tills, partitions, backs, sides, bottoms of drawers to be made of clear straight grained Poplar. All shelves are to be made }i" thick and no dado is to be cut deeper than i^". The shelves are to be set into dados in sides Y%" deep. A clearance of %" to be allowed between fronts of shelves and inside of doors. All partitions between shelves are to extend to the back of the case unless shown otherwise in the drawings. The grain of the wood in partitions is to run vertically. Drawers are to be dovetailed and glued together. All tills are to be put together, as shown in drawings, and all joints are to be glued and nailed together. Slides for tills are to be made of Maple and are to be fastened with glue and screws to partitions. Cases are to be provided with No, i8 ^" x 4" crown mould, i"x>^". No. 136, astragal and i>^" x i^", No. 156, nosing, all Yellow Pine, and are to be closed in on back with S/^" '*thin clear" ceiling, D. M. B. i side. All work to be smoothly dressed and sandpapered, and properly prepared for oil finish, HARDWARE. The outside doors are to be hung with 4" x 4", and middle doors with 3" x 3", extra heavy, fast joint brass butt hinges. No. 100 Orr & Lockett's Catalogue. They are also to be provided with six (6) wrought iron flush bolts, r" x 6", No. 1026 Orr cS: 259 Lockett's Catalogue. The Dietz lock No. 78, for i^" wood, is to be put on upper and lower doors and three (3) keys are to be furnished with each lock. Drawers are to be provided with Corbin lock No. 452, with same keys for all locks. Instrument trays are to be provided with No. 801, (j4") half inch bronze shutter knobs. OIL FINISHING. Woodwork is to be finished with one (i) coat of '*D. C." or ^* V. S. O." pure gum orange shellac (Shellac to be cut in ninety- five per cent, pure grain alcohol, 3^ pounds to the gallon) and two (2) coats of varnish (varnish to be of the best grade as manu- factured for the specific purpose by one of the following manu- facturers: Berry Bros. Elastic Interior Finish; Chicago Varnish Co.^s Shipoleum; F. W. Devoe & Co. Interior Durable Wood Finish; Murphy Varnish Co. Transparent Wood Finish, Interior; Pratt & Lambert No. 38 Preservative; The Glidden Varnish Co. Pale Elastic Interior; Watts, De Golyer Co. Elastic Interior; Queen City Elastic Inside Finish.) All work to be sandpapered between coats, and each coat of varnish to be thoroughly rubbed with powdered pumice-stone and rubbing oil. Bidders must state in their proposal the kind of varnish they intend to use. 2C0 Chicago Public Schools. PROGRAM. MANUAL TRAINING DEPARTMENT. School. TIME. 8.30 IO.CX5 10.30 — 12.00 1. 00 — 2.30 2.30 — 4.00 1 o Rm. Gr. Rm. Gr. Rm. j Gr. Rm. Gr. School School School School No. of pupils No. of pupils No. of pupils No. of pupils H Rm. Gr. Rm. 1 Gr. Rm. Gr, Rm. Gr. School School School School No. of pupils No. of pupils No. of pupils No. of pupils Wednesday. Rm. 1 Gr. Rm. Gr. Rm, 1 Gr. Rm, Gr, School School School School No. of pupils No. of pupils No. of pupils No, of pupils 1 Si Rm. Gr. Rm. Gr. Rm. Gr. Rm. 1 Gr. School School School School No. of pupils No. of pupils No. of pupils No. of pupils Rm. Gr. Rm. Gr. Rm, Gr, Rm. Gr. School School School School No. of pupils No. of pupils No, of pupils No, of pupils 261 Report Blank. MANUAL TRAINING DEPARTMENT. Repo}t to Principal of School. Grade Time Chicago i8g ABSENT. TARDY. Remarks: This blank is to be used for no purpose other than Reports to Principals. Manual Training Dep't. Teacher. .... School. 263 Board of Education, City of Chicago. INVENTORY. MANUAL TRAINING EQUIPMENT. In the School. ...i8. Note. — Teachers in charge of Manual Training Shops will make report, on this form, of all tools and apparatus under their care. This report is to be returned to the Supervisor of Manual Training on or before the date above given. -1 I- ARTICLES. Approxi- mate Price Each. Remarks. Blackboard Compass T Squares 30° Triangles 45° Triangles Drawing Boards Rubber Pencil Erasers Pencil Compasses (German Silver) . . Instrument Trays Drawing Rules Counter Brushes Whisk Brooms Double Benches (including vises) . . Teachers' Benches (including vises) . . Four Pupil Benches (including vises). Six Pupil Benches (including vises) . . Locker Cases Bench Hooks Strops No. 2 Smoothing Planes No. 5 Jack Planes No. 6 Fore Planes 05 50 15 30 00 40 00 20 00 30 GO 30 GO 25 15 I 22 ^ 53 I 94 2C3 INVENTORY— Continued. ARTICLES. No. i8 Block Planes No. 60 Block Planes No. 140 Block Planes No. 45 or 55 Rabbet Planes . , Back Saws . . . . Panel Saws Rip Saws Miter Box 14" Turning Saws 12" Turning Saws Pad or Keyhole Saws Coping Saws Saw Vise Saw Set. Cabinet Scrapers Hammers Mallets, Rubber Hatchets Augur Bits in case, Set Dowell Bits Forstner Bits (%" to 1"), Set Braces (common) Braces (rachet) Automatic Boring Tool Expansive Bit Brace Drills, Set Screwdrivers Screwdriver Bits Nail Sets Countersinks Bit Gauges Dividers Framing Squares Approxi- mate Price Each. 72 72 83 850 86 I 36 7 00 90 90 25 20 80 75 20 35 75 50 4 00 20 7 00 75 I 25 I 25 I 00 75 25 10 10 20 25 32 50 Rhmarks. 2G4 INVENTORY— Continued. ARTICLES. Approxi- mate Price Each. Remarks. Rules No. 6 1 T Bevels Try Squares Marking Gauges . . . . Panel Gauges Splitting Gauge . . . . Monkey Wrench • . . . Iron Cabinet Clamps Wood Hand Screws . ^i" Chisels i^" Chisels 5/8'' Chisels Chisels Chisels Chisels Chisels 1 " Chisels 13^" Chisels 2 " Chisels ^" Gouges, Regular. ys" Gouges, Regular. ^" Gouges, Regular. ^" Gouges, Regular. %" Gouges, Medium ^" Gouges, Medium i^" Gouges, Medium i^" Gouges, Flat .. . 3^" Gouges, Flat .. . I " Gouges, Flat . . . Gouges, Flat Bit Files Flat Files Saw Files 10 30 25 25 30 50 50 40 40 I 40 45 45 50 50 55 80 00 30 30 35 40 35 40 50 35 40 50 50 15 20 10 265 INVENTORY-Continued. Add Half Round Files Round Files File Card and Brush Carving Punches Cutting Flyers Parting Tools Veining Tools Spoke Shaves Oilers Oil Fillers Arkansas Oil Stones Washitaw Oil Stones Emery Oil Stones Gouge Slips Triangular Slips Steel Letters and Figures Stencil Letters and Figures, i>^". . . . Chip-carving Knives Whittling Knives Grindstone such items as are not indicated above. 15 25 15 35 50 75 10 40 I 50 50 50 10 10 3 00 I 25 20 20 20 00 SIGN HERE. Teacher. 260 SUPPLIES FURNISHED TO SHOPS OF THE MANUAL TRAINING DEPARTMENT, IN THE ELEMENTARY SCHOOLS. The following articles are kept in stock at the Supply Depart- ment for the use of the Manual Training Shops, and will be furnished upon requisition of the Manual Training Teachers, ap- proved by the Supervisor of Manual Training. Supplies (including Lumber, Sundries and Tools) to the maxi- mum amount of One Hundred Dollars ($100.00) will be furnished to each shop. The cost of all items of supplies is appended to this list. Teachers are cautioned to so regulate their orders that they may never be in danger of overdrawing the allowance. Teachers are to make requisition for supplies at least ten days in advance of requirement. Requisitions for supplies on this LIST are to be specified in accordance with the list, on the regular requisition blanks of the Board, and are to be sent to the Super- visor of Manual Training, Schiller Building. All items not POUND IN THIS LIST are to be specified on separate requisition blanks. A COPY of each requisition is to be made upon the stubs pro- vided for that purpose in the requisition books. SUNDRIES. Requisition Blank Books Drawing Paper, 10" x 13}^" (packages of Kite Paper (colored) Strawboard (sheets No. 60, 13" x 12^") Report Blanks 12" Drawing Rulers 2' No. 61 Rules Drawing Compasses Thumb Tacks sheets) . >o 10 17 20 10 05 05 40 15 Per. 100 sheets 100 sheets 100 sheets pad each each each 100 267 SUNDRIES— Continued. Rubber Pencil Erasers Lead Pencils No. i (gross boxes) Lead Pencils No. 3 (gross boxes) Cotton Waste No. 18 Twine (Balls) Sand Paper No. i Sand Paper No. o Kerosene Oil (2 gallon cans) Machine Oil '' " Turpentine '' " Shellac, White or Orange (2 gallon cans) Alcohol Oil (2 gallon cans) Empty cans are to be returned to the delivery wagon upon receipt of a fresh supply. Lamp Black (^ lb. packages) Putty (10 lb. skins) Graphite {}^ lb. boxes) Pumice Stone, F. F. (10 lb. packages) Polishing Felt (pieces 5" x 3") Wood Filler, Light Oak (5 lb. cans) Wood Filler, Rosewood " Wood Filler, Mahogany '' Drop Black (i lb. cans) Floor Wax " Water Stain, Mahogany (^ lb. cans) Water Stain, Walnut '' Water Stain, Rosewood '' Water Stain, Green '' Glue (14^ and i gallon cans) Glue Brushes No. 000 I " Varnish Brushes (glue set, are not to be placed in water) i^" Varnish Brushes " '' '' Nails, Wire, Casing, 2d, (5 lb. boxes) Nails, Wire, Casing, 4d, '' Nails, Wire, Casing, 6d, " Nails, Wire, Casing, 8d, " Brads, Wire, >^" (2 lb. boxes) Cost. ;^o 08 Per. each pound 08 ball 10 quire 10 quire 50 gallon 2 20 gallon 2 40 gallon 08 pound 35 skin 10 box '5 package 25 each 35 can 35 can 35 can can can 12 can 12 can 12 can 12 can 1 75 gallon 10 each 21 each 32 each 05 pound 04 pound 04 pound 03 pound 07 pound 268 SUNDRIES-Continued. Brads, Wire, ^" (2 lb. boxes) . . . Brads, Wire, %" Vise Handles Surgeons Adhesive Tape (in rolls) Chest Locks Escutcheons for Chest Locks. . . . Chest Handles 2>^" Steel Butt Hinges Brass Hinges, Fancy, No. 6 Brass File Hinges, ^" x 2^^". . . . Brass Butt Hinges, Y^' Middle. . . Brass Butt Hinges, ^" Middle. . . Brass Butt Hinges, i" Narrow . . Brass Butt Hinges, %" Desk .... Fancy Brass Hinges No. i, for Glove Box. . Brass Drawer Locks No. 0601 Brass Drawer Locks No. 0601^ (spring). .. Looking Glass Plates No. 877 Ih. boxes) Stove Bolts, \y^" x}£" 14" Turning Saw Blades 12" Turning Saw Blades }(" Dowel Rods (36" long) ^" Dowel Rods " ^" Dowel Rods *' S/s" Dowel Rods *' ^" Dowel Rods '* ys" Escutcheon Pins, Brass, No. 18 y Escutcheon Pins, Brass, No. 18 fi" Escutcheon Pins, Brass, No. 16 " ^" Escutcheon Pins, Brass, No. 14 " Varnish Cups No. 100 Coping Saw Frames Blades for Coping Saws F. H. Bright Wood Screws, >^", No. 4 (gross boxes) F. H. Bright " Syi'\ '' 4 " F. H. Bright " ^", '* 6 Cost. $0 06 04 10 30 10 01 05 03 01 02 01 01 02 02 02 50 50 02 10 14 14 01 01 OI 01 01 10 10 10 10 30 20 01 09 09 I I Per. pound pound each roll each each each each each each each each each each each each each each dozen each each each each each each each box box box box each each each gross gross gross 260 SUNDRIES— Continued. I ", 2 ", 10 10 12 3 4 ^" (dozens) F. H. Bright Wood Screws, %", No. 8 (gross boxes) F. H. Bright '' 7A", '^ 8 F. H. Bright F. H. Bright F. H. Bright F. H. Bright F. H. Bright F. H. Bright F. H. Brass Wood Screws, ^", F. H. Brass Wood Screws, ^i" , F. H. Brass Wood Screws, ^", No. 108 Screw Hooks (gross boxes) No. Ill Screw Hooks " No. 108 Screw Eyes *' No. Ill Screw Eyes " Brass Hooks and Eyes No. 6 Brass Screw Hooks No. 412, S/^" (gross boxes) Brass Screw Eyes No. 11 13, y%" '' Brass Drop Catches No. 782 (}( gross boxes). Wire Screw Hooks No. 6 (for coat hangers) . . Sash Knobs No. 105, Ys" Malleable Corner Braces Bottoms for No. 2 Plane Bottoms for No. 5 Plane Handles for No. 2 Plane Handles for No. 5 Plane Frogs for No. 2 Plane '. Frogs for No. 5 Plane Knobs for No. 2 Plane Knobs for No. 5 Plane Blades for No. 2 Plane Blades for No. 5 Plane Clamps for No. 2 Plane Clamps for No. 5 Plane Screws for Plane Blades Thumb Screws for Dividers Cost. Per. $0 13 gross 13 gross 15 gross 15 gross 16 gross 20 gross 19 gross 24 gross 25 gross 25 gross 25 gross 55 gross 40 gross 32 gross 25 gross 05 dozen 40 gross 30 gross 62 each 25 gross 01 each 01 each 50 each 60 each 15 each 15 each 18 each 18 each 06 each 06 each 20 each 20 each 15 each 20 each 05 each 05 each 370 SUNDRIES— Continued. Thumb Nuts for Dividers Wings for 6" Dividers Wings for 7" Dividers Shoulder Screws for Wood Hand-screws, No. 6 or 10 Back Screws for Wood Hand-screws, No. 6 or 10. Thumb Screws for Marking Gauge Brass Shoes for Marking Gauge Cost. Per. $0 05 each 05 each 05 each 15 each 15 each 03 each 03 each 271 LUMBER. 8" X 6' =; 4' board measure. Requisitions for lumber are to be made upon blanks separate from requisitions for all other supplies. I X 3/s" X ^".x 8 /s" X 10 iV X 10 K"x 8 3/8" X 8 >^"x 8 rs"x 8 ^"x ^"x ?^"x 1/ " V y2 X ^"X 3/8" X 6', rough Pine . 6', S. 2 S. Pine 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', 6', Pine Whitewood * Whitewood Whitewood , Basswood Basswood Q. S. Oak Q. S. Oak Q. S. Oak Q. S. Oak Maple (soft) Maple (soft) Maple (soft) Gum (Red) Gum (Red) Spanish Cedar, for Lantern Slide Frames X 6 " X 20", S. 2 S. White Holly (dyed), Black, Red, Yellow, Green and Blue, for inlaying and built-up work X 5 " X 21", S. 2 S. Pine, for Towel Roller iV. X 20", rough Gum, for Towel Roller and I I " X 3 ys" X 10 1 " X I 2 " X 3 I " X 3 Tipcat X 2 " X 12", rough Pine, for Pen Tray. . . . " X 12", rough Gum, for Pen Tray.. .. " X 37", S. 2 S. Pine, for Sled ........ " X 30", " Whitewood, for Sled. . " X 14", rough Ash, for Sled " X 10", S. 4 S. Birch, for Sugar Scoop " X 6', rough Hickory, for Bows and Arrows. Cost Per Piece. $0 16 16 20 19 16 18 08 08 15 15 20 20 10 16 22 22 30 ^o 10 02 02 01 02 10 13 01 04 09 273 A BIBLIOGRAPHY OF MANUAL TRAINING. Prepared by The American Manual Training Association. HISTORY AND THEORY. Adi-ek, Fei.ix Moral Instruction of Children. New York, Appleton, 1892. Pp. 270. Bamuergek, G Education of Head and Hand. Chicago, Flanagan, 1891. Pp. iiG. '* Industrial Training." A Report. New York, Bruno, 1885. Pp. 11. Banes, C. H Manual Training and Apprenticeship Schools in 1890. Philadelphia, Buchanan, i8go. Barnard, W. T Report on Technical Education. Baltimore, Friedenwald, 1887. Pp. 70. Belfield, H. H Manual Training and the Public Schools. Educational Monographs, V. i, No. i. New York. 1888. Blake* J. V Manual Training in Education. Chicago, Kerr, 1886. Pp. 83. Browne, J. C Handcraft. - Educational Monographs, V. 3, No. 5, New York, 1890. Bryant, G. H The Exercise vs. The Complete Model System. Proceedings American Manual Training As- sociation, 1897. Butler, N. M Argument for Manual Training. New York, Kellogg, 1888. Calder, F. L Practical Cooking in Elementary Schools. (See International Conference on Education, V. 2, Pp. 171-184. London, Clowes, 1884.) Oilman, D. C Plea for the Training of the Hand. Educational Monographs, V. i, No. i. New York, 1888. Gotze, Wold em a r Hand and Eye Training. London, Newmann, Pp. 229. 274 Germain, V. J On the Teaching of Domestic Economy and Needlework. (See International Conference on Education, V. 2, Pp. 334-346. London, Clowes, 1884 ) Ham, C. H Manual Training. The Solution of Social and Industrial Problems. New York, Harper, 1886. Pp. 403. Co-Education of Mind and Hand. Educational Monographs, V. 3, No. 4, New York, 1890. Harris, W. T The Intellectual Value of Tool Work, and The Educational Value of Manual Training. Government Printing Office, Washington, 1890. Hughes, J. L Educational Advantages of Manual Train- ing. Proceedings American Manual Training As- sociation, 1897. Industrial Education. Eighth Annual Report of the Commissioner of Labor. Washington, 1892. Pp. 707. Jacobson, Augustus . . . Higher Ground. Chicago. McClurg. 1888. Pp. 251. Klemm, L. R European Schools. New York, Appleton, i88g. Larsson, Gustaf Sloyd for American Schools. Boston, Sloyd Training School. The Origin and History of the Sloyd in Sweden. Proceedings American Manual Training As- sociation, 1897. Leland, C. G Practical Education. London, Whittaker, 1888. Pp. 280. Lord, Emily Sloyd as a means of Teaching the F:ssen- tial Elements of Education. London, Cassell, 1888. MacAllister, James. . .Manual Training in the Public Schools of Philadelphia. Educational Monographs, V. 3, No. 2, New York, 1890. McArthur, Arthur . . . Education in its relation to Manual In- dustry. New York, Appleton, 1886. Pp. 393 Magnus, Sir Philip, 275 Industrial Education. London, Paul, 1888. Pp. 271. Manual Training. Address before National Association of Manual Training Teachers. London, Whittaker, 1894 Pp. 21. Manual Training and Industrial Education. Report of a Commission appointed by the Governor of Massachusetts, 1893. Pp. 320. Marenholtz Bulow, Bertha Von — School Workshop. Syracuse, N. Y., Bardeen, 1892. Pp. 27. Meath, Earl oi--, ^^//^/'. Prosperity or Pauperism. London, Longman's, 1888. Pp 342. Moss, J. F Workshop Instruction in Elementary, Higher and Evening Schools. (See International Conference on Education, V. 2, Pp. 24-33 London, Clowes, 1884 ) JSJational Education Association — Papers. New York, Holmes, 1884-1897. Adler, Felix Technical and Art Education in Public Schools. 1884. p. 308-319. .Report on Exhibits from Manual Training Schools. 1887. p. 686-691. 1896. Baker, J. H Bennett, C. A. ....Esthetic Principle in Manual Training, p. 786-790. Manual Training from the Kindergarten to the High School, 1892. p. 449-455. Booth, E. R Philosophy of Manual Training. 1895. p. 720-731. Bradley, !• E Influence of Manual Training on Habits of Thought. 1892. p. 663-671. Manual Training in Grammar Grades. 1890. p. 834-842. Buchanan, J. R Moral Influence of Manual Training. 1883. p. 37-46. Calkins, N. A Course of Manual Training in Primary Classes, 1890. p. 828 834. Carroll, C. F Manual Training and the Course of Study. 1896. p. 778-786. Carter, C. M Manual Training through Industrial Drawing. p. 443-357- Clute, Oscar. . , ■Crawford, T. O. 1886. The Head and the Hand. 1897- P- 734-742. Educational Power of Manual Training in our Grammar Schools, 1888. p. 570-583. 27(5 Fairchild, G. L. Fay, L. a Goss. W. F. M.. Hailmann, W. N Ham, C. H Haven, C. L. . . . Hoffman, Paul HOYT. J. E .Some Limitations in Industrial Training. 1888. P- 549-555- .Practical Methods of Instruction. 1887. p, 206-211. . .Outline of Technical Work for a Manual Train- ing School, 1885. p. 263-274. ..Manual Training in the Elementary School. i8go. p. 842-850. ..Educational Value of Manual Training. 1888. p. 259-262. . .Relation of the Kindergarten to Manual Train- ing. 1892. p. 443-448. . ..Manual Training in New York City Schools. 1892. p. 471-474- ....Manual Training in the Public Schools of the Smaller Cities. 1896. p. 768-777. Jacobson, Augustus. .. .Layman's View of Manual Training. 1884. p. 293-308. James, H. M Influence of Manual Training in Elementary Schools. 1890. p. 850-858. Kedzie, N. S Need of Manual Training for Girls. 1896. p. 756-760. Keyes, C. H Modifications of Secondary School Courses most demanded by the Conditions of to-day. 1895. P- 731-741- Kovalevsky, E. de Manual Training in Russia. 1893. p. 604-605. Larsson, Gustav Sloyd for Elementary Schools contrasted with the Russian System of Manual Training. 1893. p. 599-603. Larkins, C. D The Effects of Manual Training. 1895. p. 748-752. Leipziger, H. M. ......Education as affected by Manual Training. 1892. p. 439-443- Progress of Manual Training, 1894. p. 877-880. Magoun, G. F Manual Education from the Other Side. 1886. p. 484-497. McLouTH, Lewis Some Definitions. 1891. p. 745-749. Miller, J. C Drawing — Its Relation to Manual Training and the Industrial Arts. 1894. p. 872-876. Northrop, B. G Industrial Education in the South. 1889. p. 628-633. Ordway, J. M Handwork in the School. 1884. p. 319-336. Parker, W. D Some Possible Relations of Normal Schools to Manual Training. 1897. p. 749-752. Pedagogical Value of the School Workshop. 1886. p. 305-317- 277 Place Manual Training should occupy in a System of Public Schools. 1887. p. 196-205. PiNNEY, M. A Plea for the Systematic Extension of Industrial Training from the Kindergarten to Grammar Schools. 1895. p. 753-759. Powell, W. B Manual Training between the Employments of the Kindergarten and those of the Grammar Schools. 1892. p. 672-681. Industrial and Manual Training in the School Course. 1893. p. 606-613. Pratt, R. H Industrial Training as Applied to Indian Schools. 1895- P- 759-764- Report upon Classification, Nomenclature and Practical Details of Manual Training, 1890. p. 761-785. Report on Exhibits from Manual Schools at the Chicago Educational Exhibition, 1887. p. 678-692. Richards. Zalmon Relation of Industrial to Intellectual and Moral Training in our Public Schools. . 1888. p. 563-569. Robinson, A. R Industrial Education a Necessity of the Times. 1895. p. 741-746. RuNKLE, J. D Introductory Address. Congress of Industrial and Manual Instruction. 1893. p. 592-594. SissoN, E. O Mental Results from Manual Training. 1897. P 742-747 Tadd, J. L Manual Training Methods in Philadelphia Public Schools. 1894. p. 886-891. Thompson, S. R Report of Progress of Industrial Education. 1885. p. 248-257. 1888. p. 556-562. Trybom, J. H Sloyd as an Educational Subject. 1892. p. 451-461. Walker, F. A Manual Training in Urban Communities. 1887. p. 196-205. Walters, J. D Ways, Means and Maxims in Manual Training. 1889. p. 621-628, White, F. J Physical Effects of Sloyd. 1896. p. 760-766. Wolverton, N Manual Training and its Place in the Educational System of Ontario. 1891. p. 752-757, Woodward, C. M Discussion of the French System of Industrial and Manual Instruction. 1893. p. 597-599. Function of an American Manual Training School. 1882. p. 140157. The Function of the Public School. 1887. p. 212-224. Manual Training, 1883. p. 84-99. New Demands upon Schools by the World's In- dustries. 1893. p. 594-597. Organizations and Plans for Manual Training Schools. 1894. p. Sj6-Syy. Relation of Manual Training Schools to Technical Schools. 1893. p. 583-389. The Teacher of Tool Work. 1891. Pp. 749-752. New England Conference of Educational Workers. Conference on Manual Training. Boston, Ellis, 1891. Richards. R. H Woodward, J. E Enebuske, C. J. . Abler, Felix, . BOYDEN, A. G. . James, E. J. . . . Bailey. H. T. . Larned, C. W. . Richards, C. R KiLBON, G. B. . . Jones, D. W. . . CONTENTS. ...Manual Training as an Inspiration to Mental Development. .. Sloyd. . . .The Relation of Sloyd to Gymnastics. ...The Educational Value of Manual Training in the Public Schools. . . .What is Manual Training? . . .The Kindergarten and the Public School, ...Color. . . .The Language of Form. . . , Means and Methods of Manual Training. . . .Manual Training in Springfield. . . . Manual Training as an Auxiliary in the Formation of Intellectual Habits. Patten, S, N The Value of Education Relatively to the Con- sumption of Wealth. RuNKLE, J, D , The Origin of Mechanic Art Teaching: Its Intro- duction into this Country. And a number of addresses. Palmer, Courtlandt . .New Education: Manual Training an In- dispensable Department. New York, Graraercy Park School, 1885. Pp. 24. Report of the Commission on Industrial Education, made to the Legislature of Pennsylvania. Harrisburg, 1891. Pp. 592. Report of the Commission on Manual and Practical Instruction in Primary Schools under the Board of National Educational in Ireland. Dublin, Thorn, 1897. Richards, C. R. and O'Neil, H. P. — Manual Training in the Public Schools. Educational Monographs, V. 3, No. i. New York, 1890. 279 Richards, E. H Manual Training for Girls. Proceedings American Manual Training As- sociation, 1897. RuNKLE, J. D Report on Industrial Education. Boston, Brown. Pp. 34. Manual Element in Education. Boston, Rand, 1882. Pp. 72. Sackett, H. S The Value of Sewing in Manual Training High Schools. Proceedings American Manual Training As- sociation, 1897. Salicis, G. a Manual Training in France. Educational Monographs, V. 3, No. 3. New York, 1890. Enseignment du Travail Manuel. (In Musee Pedagogique. Memoires et docu- ments scolaires Fascicule No. 33. Paris. Imprimerie Nationale. 1889.) Salomon, Otto Theory of Educational Sloyd. Boston, Silver, 1896. Pp. 150. Sloyd in the Service of the School. Educational Monographs, V. i. No. 6, New York, 1888. ScHMiTT, E La Pedagogic du Travail Manuel. Paris, Picard, Pp. 160. ScHOENHOF, Jacob Industrial Education in France. Pt. I Technical Education in France. Washington. Gov't. Printing Office, 1888. Pp. 136. Seidel, Robert Industrial Instruction, a Pedagogic and Social necessity. Boston, Heath, 1887. Pp. 160. Sluys, a Manual Training in Elementary Schools for Boys. Educational Monographs, V. 2, Nos. 1-2. New York, 1889. Teegan, T. H Technical, Industrial and Commercial Education in France. London, Simpkin, 1891. Thornton, J. S Manual Training in Germany. London, Laurie, 1891. Pp. 8. 280 United States Bureau of Education. Art and Industry: Education in the Industrial and Fine Arts in the United States. Clark, I. E. 3 Vol. Washington, 1885-1897. CONTENTS. V. I. Drawing in the Public Schools. V. 2. Industrial and Manual Training in the Public Schools. V. 3. Industrial and Technical Training in Voluntary Associations and endowed Institutions. Industrial Education in the United States. Washington, 1883. Pp. 319. Reports of Commissioner. Washington, 1887-1896. Aesthetic Element in Manual Training. 1895-1896. Pp. 1323-1325. Exhibit of Results of Manual Training. 1892-1893. Pp. 569-575. Fellenberg or Manual Labor Movement. 1891-1892. Pp. 506-510. Limitations to Artistic Manual Training. 1895-1896. Pp. 1325-1326. Manual Training (Germany). 1889-1890. Pp. 1209-1212. Manual and Industrial Training. 1887-1888. Pp. 825-910. 1888-1889. Pp. 411-428. 1889-1890. P. 1148. Relation of Manual Training to Art Education. 1895-1896. Pp. 1321-1322. Rise and Progress of Manual Training. 1893-1894. Pp. 877-950. Statistics of Manual Training Schools 1888-1889, Pp. 1362-1367. 1889- 1890, Pp. 1351-1357. 1891-1892, P. 1197. 1893-1894, Pp. 2093-2169. 1894-1895. P. 2170. Technical and Artisan Education in Russia. 1890-1891. Pp. 242-253. Technical Instruction in Great Britain. 1891-1892. Pp. 105-138. Technical and Industrial School (Belgium). 1892-1893. Pp. 186-188. Technical and Sloyd Training. 1895-1896. P. 989 Training in Sloyd. 1891-1892. Pp. 427-429. Typical Institutions offering Manual or Industrial Training. 1895-1896. Pp. 1001-1152. Woodward, C. M Educational value of Manual Training. Boston, Heath. 1890. Pp. 100. Manual Training School. Boston. Heath, 1887. Pp. 366. Manual Training in Education. New York, Scribner. 1891. Pp. 300. Manual Training Schools. (See International Conference on Education. V. 2, P. 52-68. London. Clowes. 1884,) Meaning and Value of Manual Training. St. Louis. 1897. Pp- 25- Rise and Progress of Manual Training. Report of Commissioner of Education. 1893- 1894. Pp. 877-950. 281 METHODS AND MANUALS. Andren, Miss Sloyd Models. London, Newmann, 1896, 48 sheets. Annual Report Committee on Manual Training. Boston, School Document, No. 18. 1897. Barter, S Manual Instruction; Woodwork. London, Whittaker, 1892. Pp. 343. Beardsley, R. F The Chicago Course of Study. Chicago Board of Education, 1898. Pp. 150. Chicago Board of Education, 1899. Pp 300. Berlin Course of easy Woodwork. London, Newmann, 1895. Pp. 47 and 11 plates. Bevis, a. W Practical Lessons in Hand and Eye Training. London, Newmann, 1895, 4 V. Pp. 66 each. BROUCiHTON, Mrs. J. ... Practical Dressmaking for Students and Technical Classes. London, Macmillan, 1897. Pp. 190. Bruhns, Alois Die Schulwerkstatte in Ihrer Verbindung mit dem Theoretischen Unterrichte. Vienna, Holder, 1895. Pp. 69 and 32 plates. Carter and Roosevelt. Manual Training for Eight Years. Denver. State Superintendent of Public In- struction, 1898. Pp. 85. CoQUELiN, M Necessaire de Travail Manuel. Paris, Larousse. Pp. 46. CoMPTON, A. G First Lesson in Woodworking. New York. Ivison, 1888. Pp. 188. Cutler, C. F Primary Manual Training. Boston, Educational Publishing Co., 1891. Dauzat and DERAMOND.Les Travaux Manuels a V Ecole Primaire. Paris, Picard. Pp. 144. Daujat and Dumont. . .Cours Normal des Travaux Manuels. Paris, Larousse. Pp. 320. Degerdon, W. E The Grammar of Woodwork. London, Macmillan, 1892. Pp. 44. Dumont and Phillipon. Guide Pratique des Travaux, Manuels. Paris, Larousse, n. d. Pp. 219. Faivre, Emile Enseignement du Travail Manuel. Paris. Hachette. 1887. Pp. 115. •->82 Goss, W. F. M Bench Work in Wood. Boston, Ginn, 1888. Pp. 161. GoTEBORGS Folkskolors Modellserie for Traslojd. Gothenburg, 1891. Folkskolors Modellserie for Metallslojd. Gothenburg. GoTZE, WoLDEMAR Manual Training made serviceable to the School. London, Newmann. Pp. 157. Leipzic Series of Sloyd Diagrams. London, Newmann. Handfertigskeitsvorlagen der I.eipziger Schulerwerkstatt. Leipzig. Schulhandfertigkelt. Leipzig, Hinrichs, 1894. Pp. 82. Handbook for Sewing Teachers. New York. Whittaker, 1893. Pp. 128. Hapgood, O. C School Needlework. Boston, Ginn. Pp. 244. Heaton, William Manual of Cardboard Modelling. London, Newmann, 1894. Pp- i^4- Hewitt, William A Graduated Course of Simple Manual Training Exercises for Educating the Hand and Eye. London, Longmans, 1893. Pp. 229. Hinckley, F. A Woodwork in the Common School. Springfield, Bradley, 1895. Pp. 126. Hoffman, B. B The Sloyd System of Woodworking. New York, American Book Co., 1892. Pp. 242 Hudson and Cooke .... Educational Woodwork. London, Newmann, 1896. Pp. 62. Cardboard Modelling. London, Newmann, 1896. Pp. 29. Jay and KiDsoN Exercises for Technical Instruction in Woodworking. • London, Longmans, 1892. Johansson, Alfred .... Practical Directions for Making the High School Series of Sloyd Models. London, Phillips. Pp. 58. 283 Johnson, C. F Progressive Lessons in Needlework. Boston, Heath. Pp. 132. Jones, Emily A Manual of Plain Needlework and Cut- ting Out. London, Longmans, 1891. Pp. 112. JuLLY, M. A Le Travail Manuel a I'Atelier Scolaire. Paris, Belin, 1894. Pp. 284. Le Travail Manuel a I'Ecole Primaire. (Classes sans ateliers.) Paris, Belin, 1894. Pp. 262. JuLLY and Rocheron. . . Lecons Technique a I'Atelier Scolaire. Paris, Belin, 1894. Pp. 194. Kalb, Gustav First Lessons in Hand and Eye Training. Translated from the German. London, Newmann, 1893. Pp. 143. Kilbon, G. B .Knife Work in the School Room. Springfield, Bradley, 1891. Pp. 193. Elementary Woodwork. Boston, Lee, 1893. Pp. 99. KiRKwooD, L. J Sewing Illustrated. New York, American Book Co., 1881. Larsson, Gustaf Teachers' Sloyd Manual. Boston, Mudge, 1890. Pp. 50. Handbook of Geometric Wood Carving. New York, Kellogg, 1895. Pp. 32. Working Drawings in Sloyd. New York, Kellogg. Laubier and BouGUERET.Le Travail Manuel a I'Ecole de la Rue Tournefort. Paris, Hachette, 1888. Pp. 39 and 19 plates. Leblanc, RENfe L'Enseignement Manuel. Paris, Larousse, n. d. Pp. 224. Love, S. G Industrial Education, a Guide to Manual Training. New York, Kellogg, 1887. Pp. 306, Lyonnet, Henri Travail Manuel. Paris, Baudry. 1889. Pp. 100. Martin, P. M Cours de Travail Manuel. Paris. Colin, 1894. Pp. 206 and 286, 284 Modeller fraa Naas Slojdlarare Seminarium. Gothenburg, Baltzer, 1897. 30 plates, Murray, W. W A Course in Manual Training for Gram- mar Schools. Rochester, Atheneum and Mechanics Institute, 1897. Pp. 72. Nelson, William Woodwork Course for Boys. London, Phillip, 1893. Pp. 60. PouLOT, Denis Method de Enseignement Manuel. Paris, Monrocq, 1889. Pp. 425. Ricks, George Hand and Eye Training. London, Cassell, 1889. 2 Vol. Pp. 67 and 64. Manual Training. Woodwork. London, Macmillan, 1898. Pp. 188. RoDHE, Eva The Eva Rodhe Model Series in Wood- work. English and Swedish. Gothenburg, Baltzer, 1893. Pp. 6. 35 plates. Rosevear, Elizabeth . .Text-book of Needlework, Knitting and Cutting Out. / London, Macmillan, 1893. Pp. 460. RowE, Eleanor Hints on Chip-carving. London, Sutton, 1892. St. John, George Manual Instruction, Woodwork. London, Blackwood, 1891. St. John and Turrell. .The County Council Course of Manual Instruction. London, Simpkins. 20 plates. Salomon, Otto Teacher's Hand Book of Sloyd. London, Philip, 1894. Pp. 270. Schwartz, Everett. . . . Sloyd or Educational Manual Training. Boston, Educational Publishing Co. SiCKELS, IviN Exercises in Woodworking. New York, Appleton, 1890. Pp. 158. SiLOw and Salomon. . . .StallningarvidSvenskPedagogiskSwicker- slojd. Stockholm, Beijers, 1894. Simmonds, T. C Woodwork. London, Bemrose. Pp. 70. 285 SuTCLiFFE, J. D Handcraft; English Exposition of Sloyd. London, Griffith, 1890. Pp. 77. Tadd, J. Liberty New Methods in Education. Trainok, Richard Educational Woodwork. Manchester, Eng. Course I, 60 cards. Course 11. Unwin, W. C Exercises in Woodworking for Handicraft Classes in Elementary and Technical Schools. London, Longmans, 1887. 30 plates. Upham, a. a Fifty Lessons in Woodworking. New York, Kellogg, 1892. Pp. gg. Whitaker, Channing. . How to Use Woodworking Tools. Boston, Ginn, 1884. Pp. 102. Wood, George Manual Instruction in Woodwork. Leeds, Arnold, 1892. Young, C. S Manual Training for the Standards. Leeds, Bean. Pp. 30. ARTICLES IN PERIODICALS. Adler, Felix. Influence of Manual Training on Charac: ter. Ethical Review. New Experiment in Education. Princeton Review, 11: 143. Allen, E. A. H Manual Training in School: the New Education. Unitarian Review, 35: 454. Austen, P. T . .Manual and Sense Training the Great Problem in Education. Scientific American Supplement, 40: i63g2. Authoritative Definition of Manual Training. Science, 13: 9. Balliet, T. M Manual Training: Its Educational Value. American Physical Education Review, i : 60. Bates, R. C Character Building at Elmira. American Journal of Sociology, 3: 577. Beardsley, R. F Manual Training. Chicago School Weekly No. i and others. Belfield, H. H Manual Training and Public Education. Science, 9: 372. 28C Bennett, A. C Home Workshop. Outlook, 53: 286. How shall a Boy be Introduced to Tools ? Outlook, 53: 155. Manual Training from Kindergarten to High School. Journal of Education, 36: 167. Russian System of Manual Training. Art Education, 2: 75, 148. (The) Workshop. Art Education, 4: 10, 83. Brown, G. P Educational Value of Manual Training. Education, 9: 664. Capin, S. B Manual Training for the School of Boston. Education, 12: 117. Carroll, C. F Just What should Manual Training Do for Children in the Elementary Schools? Teacher's College Bulletin, No. 6: 2. Manual Training and the Course of Study. Art Education, 3: 13. Carter, C. M Industrial Idea in Education. Century, 14: 679. Chamberlain, A. H. . . .The Manual Training Teacher. Art Education, 4: 190. Chapin, T. F Educational value of Manual Training. Charities Review, 6: 335. Chapman, Evelyn Slojd or Hand-Training in Sweden. Science, 9: 269. Crawford, R. D Benefits of Manual Training. Journal of Education, 46: 6. Davenport, H. R Technical Education in Board Schools. Contemporary Review, 53: 672. Davidson, Thomas Manual Training in the Public Schools. Forum, 3: m. Dickinson, H. W Manual Training in Small Schools. Journal of Education, 46: 180. Dickinson, J. W Industrial Education in the Public Schools. Education. 7: 669. 287 Eh\ , Frederick Educational Value of Manual Construct- ive Work. Education, i8: 491. Flood, T. L Educate the Hand. Chautauquan, g: 213. (tilmert, C. B Some Manual Training Ideas. Education, 18: 195. (xoss, VV. F. M An Ideal Course of Shopwork. Art Education, 2: 29. Go'izE, WoLDEMAR Educatioual Manual Training for Boys in Germany. Pratt Institute Monthly, 6: 204. CiRoszMAN, Maximilan. . Should Boys and Girls be Given the Same Kind of Work in Manual Training? Teacher's College Bulletin, No. 6: 10. Ham, C. H Manual Training. Harper's Magazine, 72: 404. Hancock, J. A Early Phase of the Manual Training Movement. Pedagogical Seminary, 5: 287. Hanev, J. P A Bit of a Creed. Art Education, 4: 189. Harris, W. T. , Psychology of Manual Training. Education, 9: 571, 656. Harwood, W. S Sloyd; the Swedish Manual Training System. Outlook, 58: 43. Heinemann, A. H Manual Training vs. the Old Method of Education. Arena, 9: 427. Henderson, C. H Aim of Modern Education. Popular Science Monthly, 49: 485. Cause and Effect in Education. Popular Science Monthly, 45: 51. Manual Training. Popular Science Monthly, 46: 48, 799. New Programme in Education. Atlantic 81: 760. Philosophy of Manual Training, ist paper. Popular Science Monthly, 53: 145. Spirit of Manual Training. Popular Science Monthly, 35: 433. 288 Hervey, W. L Relation of Art Education to Manual Training. '^ Art Education, 2: 47. Industrial F^ducation Association. Science, q: 553. James, E. J Manual Training in the Public Schools in its economic aspects. Andover Review, 10: 369. JuLLY, M. A Manual Training in the Elementary Schools of Paris. Pratt Institute Monthly, 6: 197. Keyes, C. H Modifications of Secondary School Courses most demanded by the condi- tions of today. Art Education, 2: 176. Krofotkin, Prince .... Brain Work and Manual Work. Nineteenth Century, 27: 456. Larsson, Gustak Origin and History of the Sloyd in Sweden and the Principles Underlying the Work of the Sloyd Training School, Boston. Art Education, 4: 145. Some Observations on Manual Training in Europe and America. Education, 17: 257. Slojd. School Journal, 53: 718. LuBKOCK, Sir John Manual Instruction. Fortnightly Review, 46: 463. Same. Popular Science Monthly, 30: 327. Same. Ltttell's Living Age, 171:387. McDaniel, B. F Moral and Educational Value of Manual Training. Lend a Hand, 10: 165. Mackintosh, May Place of Manual Training in the General Scheme of Education. Education, 7: 188. 289 Magnus, Sir Philip. . . .Manual Training in P^ngland. Art Education, 3: 136. Manual Training in Relation to Health. Educational Review, 3: 78. Manual Training in School Education. Popular Science Monthly, 31: 493. Same. Contemporary Review, 50: 695. Manual Training. Journal of Pedagogy, 10: 5. Manual Training Equipment. School Journal, 55: 199. Manual Training for Boys in the Public Schools. New Englander, 43: 561. Manual Training in Boston. Lend a Hand, 10: 193. Manual Training in New York Schools. School Journal, v. 55, D. 18, supplement, p. 6. Manual Training Number. New York Teacher's Monographs, i: No. i. Marvei^, L. H Manual Education in Public Schools. Education, 2: 490. Mezes, S. E Manual training vs. Crime. Charities Review, 7: 1020. Myrick, Herbert Results of Manual Training. School Journal, 55: 361. Ortner, Evan Manual Training in Woodwork under the London School Board. Pratt Institute Monthly, 6: 207. Painter, J. F Course in Elementary Sloyd. Art Education, 4: 13, 113. Phelps, Edward Industrial Education. New Englander, 47:267. Pickwick, Jr., Eli A Course in Manual Training for Elemen- tary Schools. Art Education, 3: 38. Plunkett, H. M Kindergartens and Manual Training In- dustrial Schools. Popular Science' Monthly, 41: 375. 390 PuLLAR, A Seminary at Naas for Teacher's in Manual Training. Fortnightly Review, 47: 315. Purpose of Manual Training. Education, 16: 299. Richards, C. R Beautiful Models in Manual Training Courses. Art Education, 2: 49. Functions of Drawing and Manual Train- ing in Education. Pratt Institute Monthly, 2: 62. Manual Training for the Second Four Years of School. Teacher's College Bulletin, No. 6; 21. Manual Training: Where is the Root? Pratt Institute Monthly, 6: 191. Richards, Zalmon Relation of Manual or Industrial Tr»ain ing to the Public Schools. Education, 13: 623. RooPER, T. G Relation of Manual Occupations to other Studies. School Journal, 54: 474, 505. Russell, H. R How the Benefits of Manual Training may be Secured. Education, 8: 657. Ryder, C. J Limitations and Possibilities of Industrial Training in the Public Schools. Education, 12: 581. Salomon, Otto Manual Training; an Address. The Schoolmaster, April 12, 1890. Sloyd Instruction in Sweden. Pratt Institute Monthly, 6: 194. ScoTTER, R Manual Training; a Pastime for Boys. Westminster Review, 138: 377. Seaver, E. P Manual Training. Education, 11: 499. Shaw, E. R The Employment of the Motor Activities in Teaching. Popular Science Monthly, 50: 56. 291 Sissou, E. O Mental Results from Manual Training. Journal of Education, 46: 87. Skinner, Stella Manual Training for the First Four Years of School. Teacher's College Bulletin, No. 6: 13. Some Reasons for Manual Training. School Journal, 56: 205. Stoker, G. A New Feature in Manual Training. Pedagogical Seminary, 5: 282. Sweet, A. K Machine Shop Practice at the Mechanic Arts High School of Boston. Art Education, 4: 77. Taube, G. von Manual or Industrial Training. Popular Science Monthly, 33: 386. THO>rAS, S Industrial Training in the Public Schools of Germany. Science, 9: 567. Thompson, C. O Manual Labor Training in the Public Schools. Education, 4: 592. Thorpe, F. N Ethics of Manual Training. Education, 8: 489. History and Economics in Manual Train- ing Schools. Education, 8: 351. Manual Training as a Factor in Modern Education, with Illustrations from the Philadelphia Manual Training School. Century, 16: 920. Trybom, J. H Sloyd as an Educational Subject. Popular Educator, Nov., 1892. Motives to Effort in their Relation to the Department of Power. Art Education, 2: 146. Walker, F.A The Place of Schools of Technology in American Education. Educational Review, 2: 209. Walker, F. A., Ham, C. H., and Love, S. G.. ..What Industry, if Any, can Profitably be Introduced into Country Schools ? Science, 9: 365. 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Pages Part i. — Prefatory Remarks 3- 5 Part 2. — Hints on Instruction in Manual Training and Drawing 6- 9 Part 3. — Directions for Teachers 10- 12 Part 4. — Courses of Study 13- 15 Part 5. — Articles Sutable for use in Manual Instruction. 16-137 Part 6. — Chip Carving 138-144 Part 7. — Constructive Work 145-168 Part 8. — Book Mending 169-177 Part 9. — Description of the Important Woods of the United States 1 79-200 Part 10. — Instruction on Tools 201-240 Part ii. — Designs for Manual Training Equipment 241-271 Part 12. — Bibliography 273-292 Index. 294 INDEX. PAGE A Accidents 8 Aquarium 84 Arrow 109 Auger Bit (to sharpen) 222 B Bean-bag Board 77 Bench Hook 247 Benches (Boys) 78 Bench (Primary) 244 Bench Stop 134 Bench (Teachers) 243 Bench (Two Pupil) 241 Bibliography of Manual Training. ,273 Bicycle Racks 80 Bill File 65 Blacking Cases 125 Blotter No. i 31 Blotter No. 2 67 Blotting Pad 70 Blue Print Frame 88 Book Mending 169 Book Racks 57 Book Sewing Table 177 Boot Jack 73 Bow and Arrow 109 Bow Gun 77 Boring Tools 221 Box Kite 34 Boxes (Cardboard) 147 Boys Work Benches 135 Bracket Shelf 21 Bracket Shelf 59 Bread Board 37 Bread Cutting Board 35 Brush Holder (Cardboard) 152 PAGE c Candle Stick 131 Cardboard Boxes 147 Chair (Folding) 130 Chair (Lawn) 129 Chair (Roman) 121 Checker Board 70 Chip Carving 138 Chip Carving Knife 30 Class Lists 247 Clothes-line Reel 117 Clothes Pin 22 Coat Hanger , 38 Comb and Brush Pocket 55 Constructive Work .... 145 Corner Bracket 21 Courses of Study 13 Crumb Tray 52 D Definition of Manual Training 3 Designs for Manual Training Equip- ment 241 Desk Cover 246 Directions for Teachers 10 Drawing Board 78 Drawing Board 248 Drawing Instrument Case 249 Drying Rack (Negative) 53 Drying Rack (Negative) 87 E Easels 47 Easels (Rustic) 160 Electric Toy .154 Envelope 146 Envelope Case 36 Envelope Case (Cardboard) 151 Equipment (Designs for) 241 I'AGE F Faba-baga Board 77 Fans 34 Fencing Saber n6 Files and Filing 224 Folding Chair 130 Foot Stools 102 Frame for Class Lists 247 Frames for Lantern Slides 132 Frames (Picture) 71 Q Garden Rake 78 Glove Box Ill Glue 238 Glue Table 248 Grindstone Rest 250 Gun 77 H Hammers 223 Hand Mirrors 119 Hanging Shelves 62 Hat Racks 82 I Ink Stand No. i 117 Ink Stand No. 2 40 Insect Board 79 Instruction on Tools , 201 Inventory Blank 262 Ironing Board 37 J Jardiniere Stand 123 K Key Rack 38 Kite (Box) 34 Kite (Conyne) 48 Kite (Hexagonal) 48 Knife and Fork Rest 43 Knife Boxes 105 Knife (Chip Carving) 30 L Lantern Slide Frames 132 Lawn Chairs 129 295 PAGE Letter Boxes 76 Letter Opener No. i 25 Letter Opener No. 3 116 Letter Rack 56 Locker Case 251 Looms 158 M Mail Boxes 76 Mallets 223 Map Modeling 167 Mat No. 1 23 Mat No, 2 25 Match Safes 27 Match Safe (Cardboard) 149 Match Scratcher 21 Medicine Cabinet 151 N Nail Boxes 49 Nature Study Case 131 Negative Drying Rack 53 Negative Drying Rack 87 Negative Washing Box 87 Newspaper File 102 P Paper File 65 Paper Folder 22 Paper Knives 41 Paper Pulp 168 Paper Rack 97 Pasting Roller 177 Pedestals 133 Pen Holder 43 Pen Racks 33 Pen Trays 100 Pencil Boxes 107 Pencil Sharpeners 18 Photograph Frame 40 Piano Bench 104 Piano Lamp Stand 122 Picture Frames 71 Pin Cushion and Scissors Rack 26 Planes 216 Plant Label No, i and No 2. . . . 16 296 PAGE Plate Racks 89 Printing Frames 88 Program Blank 260 Puzzle Blocks 37 R Rake 78 Reflection Apparatus 155 Report Blank 261 Ring Toss 24 Roman Chair 121 Round Mat 30 Ruler (Description) 202 Rulers 19 Rustic Work 160 S Saber 116 Salt Boxes 74 Sandpaper Block 66 Sandpaper File 50 Saws 203 Shelf Models 60 Shellac Table 248 Shinney Stick 39 Shipping Tag MS Shopping List 45 Sleds 98 Snow Shovel 118 Soap Box 54 Specimen Case 79 Spreading Board 79 Square 203 Stand 121 Stamp Box 69 Stationery Case 149 Step Ladder 128 Stools 102 Strop 247 Sugar Scoop no Supply List (Lumber) 271 Supply List (Sundries) 266 PAGE T T Square 78 Table 123 Table 125 Tabouret 124 Teapot Stand 68 Test Tube Rack 131 Thaumatrope 150 Tipcat 63 Tool Cabinet 251 Tool Case 254 Tool Chest 132 Tool House at Home 236 Tools (Description) 201 Tooth Brush Rack 26 Top 56 Top (Color) 153 Top (Scientific) 156 Towel Roller 91 Towel Rack 68 Trays (Cardboard) 148 Triangles 78 Try Square 203 Twine Winder No. i and No. 2. . . . 16 U Umbrella Stand 127 V Varnish Cup 246 Venetian Iron Work 166 W Washing Box 87 Waste Paper Baskets 112 Watch Pocket 118 Water Wheel 143 Weather Vanes go Whisk Broom Holder 51 Whistle 46 Window Box 131 Wire Work 162 Work Benches (Boys) 135 Woods (Description of) 179 RETURN EDUCATION-PSYCHOLOGY LIBRARY 1 TO— ^ 2600 To 1 man Hall 642-4209 LOAN PERIOD 1 SEMESTER 2 , ; 3 4 Sin?f);r»M«ALs ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS 2-hour books must be renewed in person Return to desk from which borrowed DUE AS STAMPED BELOW 1 i 1 /UOl jUN i 1 i-""' f UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, BERKELEY FORM NO. DDIO BERKELEY, CA 94720 ^ iL t*yuuf 54M05 UNIVERSITY OF CAUFORNIA LIBRARY