-wm¥A n -r- t iKy >->^*f^ IVi ^ '^^, f .A^^-r?f|&^^, c ^J--^^' ■^K -V ^1faW)f/ W| i'^ ;?Vw -^■m. .^^-KXV^fttMAV^^^'^' r kc y.yyi:'^^:^^\/': . 'h^;-hr?::r^:^r-^^ /■y ^'5^^.^ |/^^r^^^ ,^^^u^^ /^/"^ '>\ GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE PRINCESS OF GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH AND LETTERS WITH PORTRAIT NEW YORK & LONDON G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS %\^t Jlnukcrboclur |3rtss 1885 Press of G. P. Putnam'' s Sons New York f\3 fl^- TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS THE HEREDITARY GRAND DUKE AND TO THEIR GRAND DUCAL HIGHNESSES THE PRINCESSES VICTORIA, ELIZABETH, IRENE, ALIX OF HESSE AND BY RHINE m CONTENTS. Preface. By Her Royal Highness Princess Chris- tian vii Childhood and Girlhood, 1843-62 . . . . ii In Her New Home, 1862-65. 1862 31 1863 ......... 49 1864 71 1865 88 At Home and at Work, 1866-72. 1866 ......... 123 1867 168 1868 199 1869 ......... 216 1870 235 1871 266 1872 284 Trials, 1873-1877. 1873 300 1874 . ; 321 1875 339 1876 . o ...... . 348 1877 . 356 V VI CONTENTS. The End, 1878 Concluding Remarks <, . . , 368 Appendix. A Watcher by the Dead 391 A Sketch in Memoriam, December 14, 1878. By Sir Theodore Martin, K.(Z;.B. , . . 398 Lines in Memoriam ...... 406 '^'"'^'^'X PREFACE. THE great affection with which my dear Sister has ever been regarded in this country, and the universal feehng of sympathy shown at the time of her death, lead me to hope that the publication of this volume may not be unwelcome, containing as it does extracts from her letters to my Mother, togeth- er with a brief record of her married life. The short Memoir here translated from the Ger- man, with which the letters are interwoven, was written, as will be seen at a glance, not as present- ing any thing like a complete picture of my Sister's character and opinions, but merely as a narrative of such of the incidents of her life as were necessary to illustrate and explain the letters themselves. In these days, when the custom has become gen- eral of publishing biographies of all persons of note or distinction, it was thought advisable, in order that a true picture might be given of my Sister, that a short sketch of her life should be prepared by some one who was personally known to her, and who appreciated the many beautiful features of her char- vu Vlll FHINCESS ALICE. acter. The choice fell upon a clergyman at Darm- stadt, Dr. Sell. It would have been premature and out of place to attempt any thing like a complete picture of a char- acter so many-sided, or of my Sister's opinions on the affairs of Europe, in which she took the deepest interest, and on which she formed opinions remark- able for breadth and sagacity of view. The domestic side of her nature might alone for the present be freely dealt with ; and to help Dr. Sell in delineating this, my Mother selected for his guidance the extracts from my Sister's letters to her which appear in the present volume. There was no thought at first of making these extracts public, but they were found to be so beautiful, and to be so true an expression of what my Sister really was, that, in compliance with the request of the Grand Duke her husband, they were allowed to be translated and published, so that her subjects might see in them how great reason they had to love her whom they had lost. The letters in their original form are here given to the English public, and I am sure that all who read them will feel thankful to my Mother for thus granting them a closer insight into my dear Sister's beautiful and unselfish life. They will see in them also, with satisfaction, how devoted she was to the land of her birth, — how her heart ever turned to it with reverence and affection as the country which had done and was doing for Liberty and the advancement of mankind more PREFACE. IX than any other country in the world. How deep was her feelfhg in this respect was testified by a request, which she made to her husband in antici- pation of her death, that an Enghsh flag might be laid upon her coflin ; accompanying the wish with a modest expression of a hope, that no one in the land of her adoption could take umbrage at her desire to be borne to her rest with the old English colors above her. In any case I feel confident that the perusal of these letters must deepen the love and admiration which have always been felt for my beloved Sister in this country, where she ever thanked God that her childhood and youth had been tended with a wise love, that had fostered and developed all those qualities and tastes which she most valued and strove to cultivate in her later years. I had written these words, when another beloved member of our family, whose name often recurs in my Sister's letters, was suddenly taken from us, and from our country. Writing of my dear Brother to my Mother (February i, 1868) she said : " May God spare that young bright and gifted life to be a comfort to you for many a year to come ! " That life, which then hung trembling in the balance, was mercifully spared, not indeed for many a year, but lone enough to make my Brother more beloved by his family and friends, and to enable him to give to his country some token of the good gifts with PJilNCESS ALICE. which he was endowed. As he was the last of us to see my dear Sister in Hfe, so he has been the first to follow her into the Silent Land. HELENA. Cumberland Lodge : 15M April, 1884. "ff^nr PRINCESS ALICE. CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 1843-1862. " I ever look back to my childhood and girlhood as the happiest time of life."— (13^^^ /«''^''. 1S69.) PRINCESS ALICE, as she is ever called in England, was born at Buckingham Palace on the 25th of April, 1843. She was the third child and second daughter of Queen Victoria and Albert, Prince Consort. At her christening, which took place at the Palace on the 2d of June, she received the names of Alice Maud Mary. Princess Sophia Matilda of Gloucester, niece of King George III., and sister-in- law to the Duchess of Gloucester, was one of her godmothers, and her Royal parents chose the name of Maud, which is the same as Matilda, on account of its being an old English name borne by the Em- press Maud, and other British princesses. The name of " Mary " was chosen because the little princess was born on the Duchess of Gloucester's birthday. The Archbishop of Canterbury officiated at the christening. The sponsors : the reigning King II 12 PRINCESS ALICE. of Hanover, Ernest Augustus ; the Hereditary Prince of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha ; Princess Sophia Matilda of Gloucester, sister-in-law to the Duchess of Gloucester, niece of George III.; and Feodora, Princess of. Hohenlohe-Langenburg, half-sister to the Oueen. The christeninsf was, as the Oueen herself told her uncle, the King of the Belgians, when writing to him on the 6th of June, "a very imposing ceremony. Nothing could have gone off better, and little Alice behaved extremely well." '^ Though twenty-two years only have passed since the wholly unexpected death of Prince Albert de- prived the Queen of her devoted husband, the Roy- al children of a most loving and beloved father, and the whole nation of one of its wisest counsellors, his life, in the admirable biographical memorial by Sir Theodore Martin, forms already part of history, and by it we are enabled to form a just estimate of the perfect character and great intellectual abilities of the Prince, whom his daughter. Princess Alice, revered throup-h life as her hio^hest ideal. Prince Albert, the second son of the then reigning Duke of Coburg, was the very picture of manly chiv- alrous beauty. He was very young, not yet twenty- one years old, when he became the Consort of the Queen of England, who was only three months old- er. But by his strength of character and rare ener- gy of intellect, combined with a thorough self-con- * " Life of Prince Consorl," by Sir Theodore Martin, vol. i., p. i66. CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 1 3 trol and an unswerving devotion to the duties of his position, he' succeeded in gaining the love and esteem of a nation which, though it keeps watch over its rights and privileges with peculiar jealousy, knows also how to show great generosity, when once it has learnt to trust and to love. With his wonderful power of mastering new and difficult subjects he made himself familiar with the history and policy, the social and agricultural condi- tions, the industries and commercial relations of his adopted country. In his position of intimate confi- dential adviser to the Sovereign he showed the greatest tact, and gained the affection and respect of the Ministers who succeeded one another at the head of affairs ; whilst the more he became known the more his genuine worth was appreciated by the nation at large. Chief of all, two nations have acknowledged with grateful admiration, that under his influence there grew up in the midst of the most brilliant Court in Europe a domestic family life, so perfect in its purity and charm that it might well serve for a bright ex- ample to every home in the land. Whilst sharing with the Sovereiofn all the labors and cares of state, the Prince made suitable changes and practical ar- rangements in the Royal Household, and, by stead- ily adhering to principles which he had at once recog- nized as the best, he succeeded in making life happy and peaceful to all around him. Thus it was that the Royal Family of England, whether residing in 14 PRINCESS ALICE. the splendid palaces at Windsor, in London, or at Osborne, the lovely country seat in the Isle of Wight, or at Balmoral, surrounded by the sterner scenery of the Scotch Highlands, was enabled to enjoy a life of perfect tranquillity amidst the political tempests of the most turbulent decade of our times. The childhood of the Princess Alice was a very happy one, and much favored by circumstances. When she was a year old, her father mentioned her as "the beauty of the family," and as an extremely good and merry child. Her mother adds, " she was a very vain little person." She developed naturally. At first she was not thought to be so highly gifted as later years proved her to be. Her father often used to speak of her as " poor dear litde Alice," as if he had to take her part. She soon became a great favorite with all around her. Lady Lyttleton, who up to i85i was entrusted with the supervision of the Royal children, and to whose pen we owe so many accounts of that happy family life, writes as follows on the little Princess' fourth birthday : " Dear Princess Alice is too pretty, in her low frock and pearl necklace, tripping about and blushing and smiling at her honors. The whole family, in- deed, appear to advantage on birthdays ; no trades- man or country squire can keep one with such hearty simple affection and enjoyment. One present I think we shall all wish to live farther off: a live lamb, all over pink ribbons and bells. He is already the greatest pet, a,s one may suppose. CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 1 5 " Princess Alice's pet lamb is the cause of many tears. He will, .not take to his mistress, but runs away lustily, and will soon butt at her, though she is most coaxy, and said to him in her sweetest tones, after kissing his nose often, ' Milly, dear Milly ! do you like me ? ' One of the main principles observed in the educa- tion of the Royal children was this — that though they received the best training, of body and mind, to fit them for the high position they would eventually have to fill, they should in nowise come in contact with the actual Court life. The children were scarcely known to the Queen's ladies-in-waiting, as they only now and then made their appearance for a moment after dinner at dessert, or accompanied their parents out driving. The care of them was ex- clusively entrusted to persons who possessed the Oueen and Prince Consort's entire confidence, and with whom they could at all times communicate direct. The Royal parents kept themselves thor- oughly informed of the minutest detail of what was being done for their children in the way of training and instruction. After the first years of childhood were past, the Royal children were placed under the care of Eng- lish, French, and German governesses, who, again, were under a Lady Superintendent, and accompanied the children in their walks and watched over them during their games. To the lessons in foreign languages, music and drawing were soon added, for which the young 1 6 FJilNCESS ALICE. Princess showed a decided talent.* " Her copy- books were always neatness itself, and she wrote a very pretty hand." " Fresh, blooming, and healthy, escaping most of the illnesses of childhood, cheerful, merry, full of fun and mischief," she delighted in all bodily exercises, such as gymnastics, skating, etc. Above all, she was passionately fond of riding and of horses. She preferred playing with her brothers, and was bold and fearless as a boy. With all this, however, she soon showed proofs of real kindness of heart and of tender consideration for others. " I re- member well," a former dresser of the Oueen's re- lates, " meeting the Royal children playing in the corridor, and, as I passed on, the Prince of Wales making a joke about my great height, the Princess said to her brothers, but so that I should hear it : 'It is very nice to be tall ; Papa would like us all to be tall.' " " Her kindness of heart showed itself in all her actions when a child. Whenever she in the least suspected that anybody's feelings had been hurt, she always tried to make things smooth again." " At Christmastime she was most anxious to give pleasure to everybody, and bought presents for each with her own pocket-money. She once gave me a little pincushion, and on another occasion a basket, and wrote on a little card with a colored border (al- ways in German for me) ' For dear Frida [now Madame Muller], from Alice,' and brought it to me herself on Christmas Eve. I felt that she had * The memoranda in this paragraph are communicated by the Crown Princess of Germany. CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 1 7 thought how much I must have missed my home that day." '»■ The first journeys on which she, with her elder sister and brother, was allowed to accompany her parents are vividly described in the Queen's Journal. They were those to Ireland, in 1849, and, in i85o, to the Highlands ; and to the beauty and grandeur of Highland scenery she remained through life an enthusiastic devotee. Her intellectual faculties and the deeper qualities of her character did not, in her case, as, indeed, gen- erally happens with high-spirited, healthy children, develop very early ; but almost from the first she showed those qualities of disposition which win all hearts and lend a charm to daily life. Little theatrical pieces performed by the Royal children on festive anniversaries in the family — partly, too, with a view of gaining facility in foreign lan- guages — were the field in which the young Princess decidedly distinguished herself. No child ever per- formed the part of the High Priest Joad in Racine's " Athalie," with more dignity, and with a more pleas- inor intonation ; and a more deliorhtful German Red Ridinghood '"^ than the Princess never appeared upon the stage. Of one of these performances, given in honor of the Queen and Prince's wedding-day in 1854, Bar- oness Bunsen gives the following description in her biography of Baron Bunsen. A tableau represent- * In a little piece of that name by Madame Jonas. 1 8 PRINCESS ALICE. ing the Four Seasons had been studied and con- trived by the Royal children. " First appeared Princess Alice as the Spring, scattering flowers, and reciting verses, which were taken from Thomson's ' Seasons ' ; she moved gracefully, and spoke in a distinct and pleasing manner with excellent modula- tion, and a tone of voice sweet and penetrating like that of the Queen." * It was during these years that Princess Alice formed her warm friendship for the Princess Louise of Prussia, now Grand Duchess of Baden, who re- cords her first impressions of the young Princess in the following words : " She was at that time most graceful in appear- ance — charming, merry, and amiable ; and though always occupying a subordinate place to her very gifted and distinguished sister, there never was the least semblance of a disao-reement. Alice's cheerful disposition and her great power of observation showed themselves very early in the pleasantest manner, and she had a remarkable gift of making herself attractive to others. Her individuality was less decided and prominent than that of her sister, and she had a special charm of childhood grace. Our walks and drives together, the life in the school- room, the games in the corridors, or in dear old Baron Stockmar's room — these and all the pleasure and enjoyment of being together with the two sis- ters will ever remain amongst the happiest and most lasting of my recollections." The opening of the First Great Exhibition in *Bunsen's " Life," ii., 32S. CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. I9 1 85 1 — Prince Albert's own creation — was the occa- sion of a visit of the Prince of Prussia (the present Emperor of Germany) and his family to the English Court. This visit was repeated in 1853. Meanwhile an active correspondence had sprung up between the young friends, in which Princess Alice took a most active part. " Alice was now drawn more into the circle of the grown-up members of the family ; but, in spite of this, she retained all the fascination of her charming graceful ways. A great vein of humor showed itself in her, as well as a certain sharpness in criticising people who were not congenial to her. Many a little conflict took place in the schoolroom ; but while the individualities of the sisters became more and more distinct, their happy relations to one another remained unchanged. She was a great fav- orite with her brothers and sisters, though they knew she was fond of mischief. " To a naturally engaging manner quite excep- tional joyousness and power of showing affectionate emotion imparted an especial charm, which revealed itself in the fine lines of her face, in her graceful movements, and a certain inborn nobleness and dig- nity. Her attachment to my parents, * Uncle Prus- sia ' and ' Aunt Prussia,' was truly touching." In 1 855 Princess Alice had her first serious illness — scarlet fever — caught from her younger sister, Princess Louise. She recovered easily, but for some time afterward a certain delicacy was observable. The accounts at that time are unanimous in describ- ing the peculiarly sweet development of her disposi- 20 FlilNCESS ALICE. tion, and the manifestation of a true womanly inter- est in the works of charity and mercy. The feehng of acting independently for the good of others had been aroused in many ways in the Royal children. The Swiss Cottage at Osborne, in like manner, with its museum, kitchen, store-room, and little gardens, was made the means of learning how to do house- hold work, and to direct the management of a small establishment. The parents were invited there as guests, to par- take of the dishes which the Princesses themselves prepared ; and there, too, each child was allowed to choose its own occupation, and to enjoy perfect liberty. The life in the Highlands, free from the restraint of Court life, brought the Royal children into closer contact with the humbler classes, and called into play their sympathies for the poor. They were permitted to visit the humblest cot- tages — nay, even encouraged to do so. There it was, no doubt, that a feeling of pity for and an ardent desire to help the poor, the sick, and the needy, were first aroused in the Princess. We know how these early impressions led in later life to her found- ing some of the noblest and most beneficent insti- tutions. The blessings of a happy family life, — which gen- erally those only are allowed to enjoy who live in happy obscurity from the great world, — were fully appreciated by the Princess, as we may see from her CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 21 later letters, abounding in gratitude to her parents and brothers and sisters, and from the frequent references which she makes to this period of her life. The visits of the grandchildren to their beloved grandmother, the Duchess of Kent, old in years but young in spirit, at her residences at Frogmore (near Windsor), and Abergeldie (near Balmoral), had a peculiar charm for them. The first excursion the Princess made out of her native land was to Cherbourg,* when, with her brothers and sisters, she accompanied her parents. The lovely scenery about Cherbourg has become familiar to us through the descriptions given by the Queen. A great change in the life of the Princess took place through the engagement of the Princess Royal to Prince Frederick William of Prussia. Hitherto the Princess had in a great measure shared her sis- ter's studies and artistic occupations, and had had the same companions, taking quietly and naturally the second place. Now her sister's departure for a new home wrought an entire change in her life, throwing upon her, as it did, new responsibilities as now the eldest daughter at home, and placing her in a new position in relation to her parents, and par- ticularly to her father, whose constant care it was to imbue her with that sincerity and earnestness of purpose without which, to use his friend Baron * In 1857. See the " Life of the Prince Consort," vol. iv. 22 PRINCESS ALICE. Stockmar's words, " it was impossible to fill one's position in life happily, worthily, and with dignity." The closer intercourse with her father laid the foundation of that deep and intelligent love of plastic art and of music, for which she had already as a child shown a decided talent. Her appreciation of all that was best in the arts was fostered by the many treasures by which she was surrounded at Windsor Castle, and also by prosecuting her studies and practice in music along with the Prince Consort. The many great and stirring events of those years, the disturbance of Europe through the Revolutions of 1848 and 1849, and the Crimean war, took place when the Princess was already old enough to feel their gravity ; and served to awaken and foster the keen interest which she took in later years in all political occurrences. Another great European conflict was approaching, just about the time of her Confirmation, which took place on the 21st of April, 1859. Besides having been prepared for it by the Dean of Windsor (the Hon. and Very Rev. G. Wellesley), the Prince Con- sort himself had given the Princess instructions, as he had previously done to the Princess Royal, from "A manual of Religion and of the History of the Christian Church," by Carl Gottlieb Bretschneider (formerly, " General Superintendent " in Gotha). The Prince's object in this was to encourage her in serious thought, and in independent reflections on religious questions. CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 23 The ceremony of the Confirmation, which was performed by the Archbishop of Canterbury, had barely . been conckided, when the news arrived of the threatened invasion of Sardinia by Austria, which finally ended in the Austro- Italian war, so disastrous to Austria, of iSSq. The Queen makes the following remarks on this event, in a letter to her uncle, the King of the Bel- cjians : " "^ * * But this did not in the least disturb our dear child's equanimity. She was in a most devotional state of mind — quiet, gentle, self-pos- sessed, and deeply impressed by the importance and solemnity of the event. She answered admir- ably at her examination, and went through the ceremony in a very perfect manner." '''• Not long before this the Oueen had cfiven her own opinion of her daughter in the following words : " She is very good, gentle, sensible, and amiable, and a real comfort to me. I shall not let her marry as long as I can reasonably delay her doing so." f In June i860 the Queen and Prince Consort received numerous guests at Windsor Castle for the Ascot races, amongst others the King of the Bel- gians and the two Princes, Louis and Henry of Hesse, the sons of Prince Charles of Hesse and nephews of the reigning Grand Duke. After they had left England, the Prince Consort mentioned to his valued friend Baron Stockmar, that there was * "Life of the Prince Consort," vol. iv., p. 429. \ Ibid., p. 427. 24 PRINCESS ALICE. no doubt that Prince Louis and Princess Alice had formed a mutual liking, and that he quite expected it would lead to further advances from the young Prince's family. Judging by the favorable impression which the the manly and attractive Prince of twenty-three had made, the probable result was eagerly looked for. Before long a letter from Princess Frederick Wil- liam from Berlin announced that she had been in communication with Prince Louis' mother, Princess Charles of Hesse (cousin of the Prince Regent of Prussia), who had informed her of her son's great admiration for her sister. It was arranged that, after the journey of the Queen and Prince Consort to Germany that autumn, the young Prince should pay a second visit to England ; and leave of ab- sence for him was to be obtained from the Prince Regent of Prussia.* This was done, and he arrived at Windsor Castle in November. On the 30th of November the Oueen wrote as follows in her Diary : « « * * After dinner, whilst talking to the gentlemen, I perceived Alice and Louis talking before the fireplace more earnestly than usual, and when I passed to go to the other room, both came up to me, and Alice in much agitation said he had proposed to her, and he begged for my blessing. I could only squeeze his hand and say ' Certainly,' and that we would see him in our room later. Got * Prince Louis of Hesse VA'as at this time serving in the Prussian Guards at Potsdam. CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 25 through the evening working as well as we could. Alice came to our room * * * agitated, but quiet. * " '^' Albert sent for Louis to his room ; he werft' first to him and then called Alice and me in. * ''' '•' Louis has a warm, noble heart. We embraced our dear Alice, and praised her much to him. He pressed and kissed my hand, and I em- braced him. After talking a litde, we parted ; a most touching, and to me most sacred, moment." * As this was entirely a marriage of affection, the happiness of the " young people " was very great. Prince Louis stayed over Christmas, which this year seemed brighter to the whole family, from the accession of what her father termed " a beloved newly-bestowed full-grown son." " Our dear Bride- groom," as the Prince Consort calls the young Prince, left on the 28th of December. The parting was tearful, but full of hope, as he was to return in the spring. During the first happy weeks after her engage- ment, Princess Alice had spent the greater part of her evenings with her beloved grandmother, the Duchess of Kent, either reading or playing on the piano to her, as the Duchess' health did not allow of her dining at Windsor Castle. The Duchess' condition had become worse during- the first months of the new year (186 1), and she died on the 1 6th of March at the age of seventy-four, in the presence of her beloved and loving daughter, whose happiness and affection had been the joy of * " Life of the Prince Consort," vol. v., p. 253. 26 PRINCESS ALICE. her life, and also of her equally beloved son-in-law, and the Princess Alice. On this sad occasion, which she felt most deeply, Princess Alice showed the comfort and help she was fitted to be to her family in times of sorrow and anxiety. The Queen communicated to Parliament in a " Message " the contemplated marriage of the Prin- cess. The announcement was received with general satisfaction. When, shortly afterward, the question of the Princess' " settlement " was laid before the House of Commons, the dowry of 30,000/., with an annuity of 6,000/., was voted without a dissentient voice. " She will not," writes her careful father, " be able to do ereat thingfs with it." In May, Prince Louis arrived at Osborne on a visit. Soon after, however, he fell ill with the measles. Prince Leopold caught them from him, and was very seriously ill. In the following month the whole family were for the last time together, including the two sons-in-law* and the two grandchildren from Potsdam. Prince Louis paid another visit to England in Sep- tember, when he took part in those delightful expe- ditions in the Hio^hlands, which were to be the last the Prince Consort made.f In December, in the midst of preparations which he was making for Princess Alice's future household, and for a journey of her brother. Prince Leopold, to * This is not quite correct. Prince Louis had left for Germany before the others arrived. f See " Leaves from a Journal," p. 204, et seq. CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 2/ Cannes, the Prince Consort fell ill. Princess Alice was often with h^r father during his illness, reading to hin>, and in intimate communication with her mother. Soon, however, the illness developed into low fever, and the Prince, worn out by over-work and anxiety, had not strength to resist it, and died peacefully on the 14th of December, in the presence of the Queen, the Prince of Wales, and the Prin- cesses Alice and Helena. During the days of un- speakable sorrow which followed upon the death of the Prince Consort, it was Princess Alice above all who was a real support to her broken-hearted mother. The unanimous opinion of eye-witnesses as to what the Princess went through and achieved at this time is truly astonishing. " Herself filled with the intensest sorrow at her beloved father's death — and what a father ! what a head of a family ! what a friend and adviser to his wife and children ! — she at once took into her own hands every thing that was necessary in those first dark days of the destruction of that happy home. All communications from the Ministers and house- hold passed through the Princess' hands to the Queen, then bowed down by grief. She endeav- ored in every way possible, either verbally or by writing, to save her mother all trouble. The decision to leave Windsor for Osborne directly after the Prince's death, accordino- to the ursrent wish of the King of the Belgians, and which it was so difficult and painful for the Queen to make, was obtained by the Princess' influence." The gay, bright girl seemed all at once to have chanofed into the thous^htful woman. 28 PRINCESS ALICE. " It was the very intimate intercourse with the sorrowing Queen at that time which called forth in Princess Alice that keen interest and understanding in politics for which she was afterward so distin- guished. She also gained at this time that practical knowledofe for orofanizing", and the desire for constant occupation, which in her public as well as in her private life became part of herself. The Princess suddenly developed into a wise far-seeing woman, living only for others, and beloved and respected by the highest as well as by the lowest. * It was at this time that the Times said of the Prin- cess : " It is impossible to speak too highly of the strength of mind and self-sacrifice of the Princess Alice during these dreadful days. Her Royal High- ness has certainly understood, that it was her duty to be the help and support of her mother in her great sorrow, and it was in a great measure due to her that the Queen has been able to bear with such wonderful resignation the irreparable loss that so suddenly and terribly befell her." The young "bridegroom" did not remain absent in those days, but arrived without delay. A touching trait is told by the same near relation of the Princess whose memorandum has just been quoted. As she was placing wreaths and flowers on the dear dead Prince, and both knelt down near him, she said in a heart-rending voice, " Oh ! dear Molly, let us pray to God to give us back dear Papa ! " The letters published in this volume will show * Memorandum by the Grand Duchess of Baden. CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 29 that the feeling of that irreparable loss never left her through life, and our impression cannot be a false one, that it was this loss which brought out the deep earnestness of her character, and which made her feel that life was no light thing, but a time of proba- tion to be spent in earnest work and conscientious fulfilment of duty. She felt it to be a sacred duty to foster the recol- lections of her girlhood, and to carry out the princi- ples with which her father had embued her, whether in the cultivation of art and science, the encourage- ment of art manufactures, of agriculture and general education, in the tasteful and practical arrangement of her own house, in bettering the conditions of the lower and working classes by improving their homes and inculcating principles of health, economy, and domestic management. In short, in everyway open to her, did the Princess try to walk in her father's footsteps, and so to do honor to his memory. It is but natural that during the first weeks of her first great sorrow, and of her many new duties, the thought of her own future should have been put into the background. The preparations for her marriage, however, as well as for her household were contin- ued, according to the known intentions of the Prince Consort. The marriage was solemnized at Osborne on the I St of July at one o'clock. The Archbishop of York performed the ceremony in the absence of the Archbishop of Canterbury, who was prevented by illness from being present. 30 PRINCESS ALICE. Besides her sorrowing mother, the Crown Prince of Prussia, all her brothers and sisters, the parents and brothers and sisters of the bridegroom, and a number of princely relations were present. The Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, in the place of her fa- ther, led the bride to the altar, whilst the bridegroom was accompanied by his brother. Prince Henry. At the conclusion of the ceremony, the Queen withdrew to her room. The guests left the Isle of Wight in the afternoon, whilst the newly-married pair went with a small suit to St. Clare, near Ryde (belonging to Colonel and Lady Catherine Harcourt), where they remained three days. On the 9th of July, Prince and Princess Louis of Hesse left England, accompanied by the fervent prayers and good wishes of a devoted people, who never forgot what their Princess had been to them in their hour of trouble. What they felt found apt expression in the fol- lowing sonnet, which appeared in Punch at the time : Dear to us all by those calm and earnest eyes. And early thought upon that fair young brow ; Dearer for that where grief was heaviest, thou Wert sunshine, till He passed where suns shall rise And set no more ; thou, in affection wise And strong, wert strength to Her who even but now In the soft accents of thy bridal vow Heard music of her own heart's memories. Too full of love to own a thought of pride Is now thy gentle bosom ; so 't is best : Yet noble is thy choice, O Englisli bride ! And England hails the bridegroom and the guest A friend — a friend well loved by him who died. He blessed your troth : your wedlock shall be blessed. IN HER NEW HOME. 1862-1865. " Our life is a very, very happy one. I have nothing on earth to wish for. . . . To be able to make a Ijiight and comlortable home for my dear husband is my constant aim." — (14//; Feb.-ist March, 1S64.) 1862. MEANWHILE sorrow had fallen on the Grand Ducal family of Hesse also. Some weeks before the Princess' marriage (May 2 5), the Grand Duchess of Hesse (Princess of Bavaria) had died — a woman beloved for her amiable and generous qualities, deeply regretted by her husband, the Grand Duke Louis III., and mourned by all who knew her, high as well as low. Nevertheless, preparations had been made to give a brilliant re- ception to the newly- married pair. The whole country looked forward with anxiety to the arrival of the young Princess, of whom so much had been heard, and who, though English, was known to have a thoroughly sympathetic feeling for Germany. The Prince and Princess made a short stay at Brussels, and arrived at Bingen, on the Hessian fron- tier, on the 1 2th of July. A special train took them on to Mayence, where the first official reception took place. The Rhine 31 32 PRINCESS ALICE. was crossed in a gaily-decorated steamer, and at the last station before Darmstadt the Grand Duke and all the family received the Prince and Princess and accompanied them to Darmstadt. At half-past four in the afternoon the young mar- ried couple made their state entry into the town, through streets decorated with triumphal arches, flags, and flowers, amidst the peals of bells and the enthusiastic cheers of the assembled crowds, receiv- ing and acknowledging the many marks of respect and affection with which they were greeted. A mounted guard of honor headed the procession. The schools, the different guilds, the choral societies, the Turnvereine (gymnastic societies), and thousands of towm and country folk lined the streets through which the Prince and Princess passed. The impression produced on every one by the young Princess' grace and sweet maidenly beauty, and bright winning, yet truly dignified, manner, was very great, and inspired the fairest hopes of what she would prove in her new home. What her own first impressions of that home were are given in the letters which follow. The circumstances of her new life were certainly very different from those to which she had been ac- customed as an English Princess. What she may have felt more keenly, as time went on, in the small but often-recurring differences between English and German life, did not oppress her at first. She had determined to make herself at home in her husband's IN HER NEW HOME. 33 country, and she soon contrived to stamp on every room in her h»use the impress of her fine taste. That bouse was of the most unpretending character, situated in a quiet quarter of the town, near the palace of Prince and Princess Charles of Hesse. They had few servants besides those who came with them from England. A short visit to her uncle at Coburg, a lengthened stay at Auerbach, — where the Prince and Princess had a small country house lent them by the Grand Duke, — and excursions to Heidelberg and Carlsruhe, occupied the Summer months. In September they went to Rheinhardtsbrunn in Thuringia to meet the Queen, and it was then setded that they should spend the winter and spring in England with Her Majesty. The house the Prince and Princess were living in at Darmstadt was so small, that plans had at once to be made for a new palace of their own. On the loth of November they left Darmstadt, travelling by Coblenz and Cologne to Antwerp. Here the Queen's yacht, " Victoria and Albert " awaited them, and brought them to England, where they met with a most hearty reception from all classes. Royal Yacht, July 9th. Beloved Mama : — Before leaving the yacht I must send you a few lines to wish you once more good-bye, and to thank you again and again for all your kindness to us. My heart was very full when I took leave of you and all the dear ones at home ; I had not the cour- age to say a word, — but your loving heart under- stands what I felt. 34 PRINCESS ALICE. Darmstadt, July 13th. Yesterday, after we reached Bingen, all the Hes- sian officers of state received us. At every station we received fresh people, and had to speak to them. At Mayence also, the iDeautiful Austrian band played whilst we waited, in pouring rain, which only ceased as we reached Darmstadt. The station before, the Grand Duke, Prince and Princess Charles with their children, Prince Alexander and his wife, received us — all most kind and cordial. At the station we were again received ; the whole town so prettily decked out ; the Biirger [Burgesses Escort] rode near our carriage ; coundess young ladies in white, and all so kind, so loyal ; in all the speeches kind and touching allusions were made to you, and to our deep grief. I believe the people never gave so hearty a welcome. We two drove through the town ; incessant cheering and shower- ing of flowers. We got out at Prince and Princess Charles' house, where the whole family was assem- bled. We then went to our rooms, which are very small, but so prettily arranged, with such perfect taste, all by my own dear Louis ; they look quite English. We then drove to Bessungen for dinner e^ifam- ille. * * ^• We were listening to twelve Sangervereine [Cho- ral Unions] singing together yesterday evening-— two hundred people ; it was most beautiful, but in pouring rain. Some came up-stairs dripping to speak to us. The Grand Duke gave me a fine dia- mond bracelet he and his wife had ordered for me, and showed me all over his rooms. To-morrow we receive the Standesherren [Princes and Counts] and the gentlemen of both Houses. IN HER NEW HOME. 35 My thoughts, rather oicr thoughts, are constantly with you, beloved Mama. Please give my love to all at home ; it is impossible to write to them all. July 1 6th, * * * It is extremely hot here. The last two days we rode out at eight in the morning in the wood, where the air is very pleasant, near the ground where the troops are drilled. On Monday we looked on, and the soldiers were so much flat- tered. At half-past one on Monday we received the gen- tlemen of the Upper House, then the Lower House, then the Fliigeladjutanten [aides-de-camp], then the Stadtvorstand [Town Council], then about seventy officers, then a deputation of the English here. All these people I had to speak to eji grande toilette, and at four we drove to a large dinner at the Schloss. The Grand Duke led me, and I always sit near him. Yesterday at three the whole family drove to See- heim, a lovely place in the mountains, to dinner with the Grand Duke. In the two villages we passed, flowers were showered upon us, and the Pfarrer [clergyman] made a speech. I am really deeply touched by the kindness and enthusiasm shown by the people, which is said to be quite unusual. They wait near the house to see us, and cheer constantly — even the soldiers. We then drove for tea, which is always at eight, to Jugenheim to Prince Alexander, whose birthday it was, and did not get home till lo. The whole family are very amiable toward me, and Prince Alexander is most clever and amusing. Darling Louis is very grateful for your kind mes- sages. We talk and think of you often, and then my heart grows very heavy. Away from home I can- 36 PJilNCESS ALICE. not believe that beloved Papa is not there ; all is so associated with him. July TQth. Beloved Mama : — Many thanks for your last kind letter, and all the news from home ; dear Baby [Princess Beatrice] is the only one you have men- tioned nothing of, and I think of her so often. Some people are coming to us at one, and then the whole Ministerium [Administration]. It is really so difficult to find something to say to these peo- ple, and they stand there waiting to be spoken to. Yesterday we received a deputation from Gies- sen, with a very pretty dressing-case they brought us as a present. On Thursday we went incognito with Prince Al- exander and his wife to Frankfort. The town is decked out most beautifully, and countless Schutzen [riflemen] are walking about in their dress. We dined at the Palais and then sat in the balcony. I have just taken leave of dear Lady Churchill and General Seymour.* They have made themselves most popular here, and the people have been very civil to them. Louis and I have begun reading " Westward Ho," together. The Grand Duke went all the way to Kranich- stein for me the other day, and walked about till he was quite hot. He has forbidden my visiting the other places until his return, as he wishes to lead me about there himself. I do not see very much of the other relations save at meals ; and, having our own carriages, we two drive together mostly alone. We have tea usually out of doors in some pretty spot we drive to. * Afterward Marquis of Hertford, who died on the 25th of January, 1884. IN HER NEW HOME. 37 These lines will find you in Windsor. I went out this morning andrtried to find some of those pretty- wreaths to send you, but could get none. Please put one in St. George's * from me. It is the first time you go to that hallowed spot without me ; but in thought and prayer I am with you. May God strengthen and soothe you, beloved Mama, and may you still live to find some ray of sunshine on your solitary path, caused by the love and virtue of his children, trying, however faintly, to follow his glorious example ! I do strive earnestly and cheerfully to do my duty in my new life, and to do all that is right, which is but doing what dear Papa would have wished. July 2oth. Thousand thanks for your dear long letter of the 1 8th just received. How well do I understand your feelings ! I was so sad myself yesterday, and had such intense longing after a look, a word from beloved Papa ! I could bear it no longer. Yet how much worse is it not for you ! You know, though, dear Mama, he is watching over you, waiting for you. The thought of the future is the one sustaining, en- couraging point for all. " They who sow in tears shall reap in joy " ; and the great joy will be yours hereafter, dear Mama, if you continue following that bright example. ''' * * We usually get up about quarter or half-past sev- en, and take some coffee at ei"-ht. Then we either go out till ten or remain at home, and till twelve I write and arrange what I have to do. At one, when we return from breakfast, we usually read together. I have still a great many people to see, and they usually come at two. * St. George's Chapel, Windsor, where the Prince Consort rested until re- moved to the Mausoleum at Frogmore. 38 PHINCESS ALICE. At four is dinner, and at lialf-past five we are usually back here, and occupy ourselves till six or seven, then drive out somewhere for tea at eight, walk about and return at a quarter or half-past ten. We do not waste our time, I assure you, and Louis has a good deal to do at this moment. Mr. Theed's bust of dear Papa must be very lovely. I am curious to hear what you think of Marochetti's."^" It will be very sad for you to see. A fortnight already I am here, and away from my dear home three weeks ! How much I shall have to tell you when we meet. My own dear Mama, I do love you so much ! You know, though silent, my love and devotion to you is deep and true. If I could relinquish part of my present happiness to restore to you some of yours, with a full heart would I do it ; but God's will be done ! God sustain my precious mother ! is the hourly prayer of her loving and sympathizing child. July 24th. * * * You tell me to speak to you of ;;/y happi- ness — our happiness. You will understand the feeling which made me silent towards you, my own dear be- reaved Mother, on that point; but you are unselfish and loving and can enter into my happiness, though I could never have been the first to tell you how in- tense it is, when it must draw the painful contrast between your past and present existence. If I say I love my dear husband, that is scarcely enough — it is a love and esteem which increases daily, hourly ; which he also shows to me by such consideration, such tender loving ways. What was life before to what it has become now? There is such blessed * The recumbent statue of the Prince Consort, now in the Mausoleum at Frogmore. IN HER NEW HOME. 39 peace being at his side, being his wife ; there is such a feehng of security ; and we two have a world of our own when we are together, which notJiing can touch or intrude upon. My lot is indeed a blessed one ; and yet what have I done to deserve that warm, ardent love, which my darling Louis ever shows me ? I admire his good and noble heart more than I can say. How he loves me, you know, and he will be a good son to you. He reads to me every day out of" Westward Ho," which I think very beautiful and interestinof. This morning I breakfasted alone, as he went out with his regiment. I always feel quite impatient un- til I hear his step coming up-stairs, and see his dear face when he returns. Yesterday, and the previous night, I thought of you constantly, and of our last journey together to dear Balmoral. Sad, painful though it was, I liked so much being with you, trying to bear some of your load of sorrow with you. From here I share all as if I were really by your side ; and I think so many fervent prayers cannot be offered to a merciful lovinof God without His sendinof alleviation and comfort. Please remember me to Grant, Brown, and all of them at home in dear Scotland, and tell them how much I wish, and Louis also, that we were there, changed though every thing is. July 25th. * * * People say we may still have the Palais, but I doubt it. I am eoinqf to tell the Grand Duke that we return to England in autumn (not only for your sake, but principally because I do not wish to incommode our parents any longer, and because in the winter we could not even receive people here). 40 FHIA'CESS ALICE. The only thing I shall regret in our not remaining here is, that the people feel it so much, and they are most kind ; but they will see and understand that it cannot be otherwise, and that it does not arise from ill will on our part. ^^ ''^ * Cecile and Michael * were here yester- day, so kind and so full of real sympathy toward you, which they begged me to express to you. He has such warm feelings; and they admired and loved dear Papa, though they saw him but little. Darmstadt, August ist. ''' ^" * My heart feels ready to burst when I think of such sorrow as yours. I pray my adored Louis may long be spared to me. If you only knew how dear, how loving he is to me, and how he watches over me, dear darling! To-morrow we go to Coburg, which was an old promise. Dear Uncle sent only two days ago to say he left Coburg on the 5th, and would we not come before .-^ You will understand that, happy be- yond measure as I am to go there, a lump always comes into my throat when I think of it — going for the first time with Louis to dear Papa's house, where but recently he showed us every thing himself.f Dear Mama, I think I can scarcely bear it — the thought seems so hard and cruel. He told us as children so much of Coburg, spoke to us of it with such childlike affection, enjoyed so much telling us every anecdote connected with each spot ; and now these silent spots seem to plead for his absence. To see the old Baron [Stockmar] will be a great * Grand Duke and Grand Duchess Michael of Russia. The Grand Duke Michael is uncle of the present Emperor of Russia. f This was in the autumn of i860. IX HER XEW HOME. 4 1 happiness, and that Louis should make his acquaint- ance. •■ Calexberg bei Coburg, August 4th. Once more in dear Coburg, and you can fancy with what feeHngs. Every thing reminds me of beloved Papa and of our last happy visit. We are living here, and yesterday we spent all the afternoon and dined at the Rosenau. It was a lovely day. and the view so beautiful. We went all over the house and walked about in the grounds. We walked to dear Papa's little garden, and I picked two flowers there for you, w'hich I enclose. Every spot brought up the remembrance of some- thing dear Papa had told us of his childhood ; it made me so sad, I can't tell }ou. Uncle Ernest was also sad, but so kind and affectionate, and they both seemed so pleased at our having come. Every thing about dear Papa's illness, and then of the sad end. I had to tell. I lived the whole dread- ful time over again, and wonder, whilst I speak of it, that we ever lived throu(jh it. At nine o'clock church service was in the pretty little chapel. Holzei read, and Superintendent Meyer preached a most beautiful sermon, the text being where our Saviour told his disciples they must become as a little child to enter into the kingdom of heaven. He spoke with his usual fervor, and it was most impressive. I saw him afterward, and he en- quired very much after you. We are going after breakfast to the Festung. and then Louis and I are o-oino- to see the dear Baron [Stockmar]. Darmstadt, August 6th, Dear Beloved Mama : — Can you give me no ray of hope that you in some way, bodily or mentally. 42 PRINCESS ALICE. • feel better ? It makes my heart ache bitterly, to hear those sad accounts you give of yourself, though I well know what for you life without Jiim must be 1 God comfort you ! is my constant prayer. We saw the dear old Baron for some time. The meeting was sad on both sides ; he was very kind, but so desponding as to every thing ! In England and abroad he looks at every thing in a black light, and was full of complaints about himself. He asked much after you, and is anxious to see you again. August 9tl\ Next Monday we are going to Auerbach, to live there for a little time. It lies in the Bergstrasse, and is very healthy. The Grand Duke allows us to inhabit one of the houses. August i6th. How I long to read what Mr. Helps has written about Papa ! What can it be but beautiful and ele- vating, if he has rightly entered into the spirit of that pure and noble being ? '^ Oh, Mama ! the lonfjincr I sometimes have for dear Papa surpasses all bounds. In thought he is ever present and near me ; still we are but mortals, and as such at times long for him also. Dear, good Papa ! Take courage, dear Mama, and feel strong in the thought that you require all your moral and physical strength to continue the journey which brings you daily nearer to Home and to Him ! I know hov/ weary you feel, how you long to rest your head on his dear shoulder, to have him to soothe your aching heart. You will find this rest again, and how blessed will it not be ! Bear patiently and * This refers to Mr., afterward Sir, Arthur Helps' Introduction to the " Collected Addresses and Speeches of the Prince Consort," which was then about to be published (Murray, 1S62). IN HER NEW HOME. 43 courageously your heavy burden, and it will lighten imperceptibly as you near him, and God's love and mercy will support you. Oh, could my feeble words bring you the least comfort ! They come from a •trusting, true, and loving heart, if from naught else. AUERBACH, August l6th. * * * We do feel for you so deeply and would wish so much to help you, but there is but One who can do that, and you know whom to seek. He will give you strength to live on till the bright day of reunion. ^' '•' ''' AUERBACH, August 2ISt. * * * Our visit to Giessen * went off very well. The people were most loyal. We went to see the Gymnasts, and Louis walked about amongst them, which pleased them very much. He is very popular there, and I am very glad we both went, for it made a good impression. We drove to Louis' property, Stauffenberg, a beautiful (alas ! ruined) castle, which by degrees he is havinof restored, and which will be a charminof house for us, if it is finished, which can only be done gradually. AUERBACH, August 23d. * * '=■• Try and gather in the few bright things you have remaining and cherish them, for though faint, yet they are types of that infinite joy still to come. I am sure, dear Mama, the more you try to appreciate and to find the good in that which God in His love has left you, the more worthy you will daily become of that which is in store. That earthly happiness you had is indeed gone forever, but you must not think that every ray of it has left * Uuring a musical and gymnastic festival. 44 FRIA'CESS ALICE. you. You have the privilege, which dear Papa knew so well how to value, in your exalted position, of doing good and living for others, of carrying on his plans, his wishes into fulfilment, and as you go on doing your duty, this will, this must, I feel sure.' bring you peace and comfort. Forgive me, darling Mama, if I speak so openly ; but my love for you is such that I cannot be silent, when I long so fervently to give you some slight comfort and hope in your present life. I have known and watched your deep sorrow with a sympathizing, though aching heart. Do not think that absence from you can still that pain. My love for you is strong, is constant ; I would like to shelter you in my arms, to protect you from all future anxiety, to still your aching longing ! My own sweet Mama, you know I would give my life for you, could I alter what you have to bear ! Trust in God ! ever and constantly. In my life I feel that to be my stay and my strength, and the feeling increases as the days go on. My thoughts of the future are bright, and this always helps to make the minor worries and sorrows of the present dissolve before the warm rays of that light which is our guide. AUERBACH, August 25th. * * * To-day is the Ludwigstag, a day kept throughout the country, and on which every Ludwig receives presents, etc. ; but we spend it quite quietly. Louis' parents and the others are coming to break- fast, and remain during the day. Louis is out riding. We always get up early. He rides whilst I write, and we then walk together and breakfast somewhere out of doors. We went to the little church here yesterday, which is very old, and they sang so well. IN HER NEW HOME. 45 I drew out of doors also, as it was very fine ; but it is very difficult, as it is all green, and the trees are my misfortune, as I draw them so badly. I play sometimes with Christa * ; she plays very well. August 26th [Prince Consort's Birthday]. With a heavy heart do I take up my pen to write to you to-day — this dear day, now so sad, save through its brisfht recollections. I cannot bear to think of it now, with no one to bring our wishes to, with that painful silence where such mirth and gaiety used to be. It is very hard to bear, and the first anniversary is like the commencement of a new epoch in our deep sorrow. When your dear present was brought to me this morning, I could not take my eyes from it, though they were blinded with tears. Oh, those beautiful, those loved features ! There wants but his kind look and word to make the picture alive ! Thousand thanks for it, dear Mama. How trying this day will be for you ! My thoughts are constandy with you, and I envy the privilege the others have in being near you and being able to do the least thing for you. The sun shines brightly in the still blue sky ; how bright and peaceful it must be where our dear Spirit dwells, if it is already so beautiful here. September 5th. * * * Two days aero Louis and I went to • 1*1 Worms. Whilst he went to his regnnent, which the Grand Duke came to inspect, I went to the Dom, which is most beautiful ; and then went in a little boat on the Rhine, which was charming. It took us, driving, an hour and a half from Auerbach to Worms. * The Princess' lady, Baroness Christa Schenk. 46 PRINCESS ALICE. AuERBACH, September 7th, * * * For Louis' birthday we are going to Darmstadt ; it is getting cold and damp here, and the house is small. We take our meals in another house, and it is cold to walk over there of an eve- ning. Think of us on the 12th. It was such a happy- day last year.* I have such Heimiuch [yearning] after beloved Papa ; it is dreadful sometimes when I think of him and of our home. But he is so happy in his bright home, could we but catch a glimpse of him there. Dear Grandmama [the Duchess of Kent], too, is constantly in my thoughts lately. I can see her be- fore me — so dear, kind, and merry. As time goes on, such things only mingle themselves more vividly with one's usual life ; for it is their life which is nearest us again, and not their death, which casts such a gloom over their remembrance. AuERBACH, September nth. * * * How beautiful Heidelberg is ! we went all over the Castle, and with such glorious weather. There is one side still standing, built and decorated by a pupil of Michael Angelo, which dear Papa ad- mired so much. How do I miss not being able to talk to beloved Papa of all I see, hear, feel, and think ! His absence makes such a gap in my ex- istence. Darmstadt, October 13th, * * * Our visit to Baden was charming, and dear Fritz and Louise f so kind ! Louis and I were both delighted by our visit. The Queen, the Duchess of Hamilton, and Grand Duchess Helene * Prince Louis was then at Balmoral. f Grand Duke and Grand Duchess of Baden. IN HER NEW HOME. 4/ were there, besides dear Aunt [Princess Hohenlohe], and Countess Klicher. The two latter, dear and precious as ever. We left yesterday morning- ; spent three hours with Grand Duchess Sophie, who is the most agree- able, clever, amiable person one can imagine. It gave me real pleasure to make her acquaintance. Aunt Feodore's house, though small, is really very pretty, and her rooms are hung full of pictures. I saw Winterhalter also, in his lovely new house, which he has gone and sold, saying it was too good for him. He has painted a most beautiful picture of the Grand Duchess Helene — quite speaking. * * J ^pj^ going to make my will before leaving. I do not like leaving (for England) with- out having done something. Darmstadt, October 17th. First of all, thousand thanks from Louis and me for your having allowed dear Arthur^" to come with us. I cannot tell you what pleasure it has been to me to have that dear child a little bit. He has won all hearts, and I am so proud when they admire my little brother, who is a mixture of you and adored Papa. Darmstadt, October 23d. * * * We intend probably leaving this on Saturday, the 8th, remaining until the loth at Cob- lenz, from whence we go direct in eleven hours and three-quarters to Antwerp, leaving Antwerp the morning of the 12th, to reach Windsor that even- ing or the next morning. We always continue reading together, and have read Hypatia, a most beautiful, most interesting, * Duke of Connaught, then twelve years old. 48 PEINCESS ALICE. and very learned and clever book, which requires great attention. I have the great bore to read the newspapers every day, which I must do ; see Dr. Becker * from eleven to twelve ; then I write, and have constantly people to see, so that I have scarcely any time to draw or to play. I also read serious book to my- self. Louis would like to o^o to Leeds and Manchester from Osborne, as he wants to go to London from Windsor. I shall accompany him sometimes. October 25th, As you come later to Windsor, we shall not leave till the loth, remain the nth with the Oueen, then go direct to Antwerp. If the weather is bad we shall wait. Then on the 14th or i5th we shall be at Windsor, which we prefer to coming to Osborne. We hope this will suit you. All are full of lamentations at our departure, and for so long, which is most natural ; but they are very kind. We have a family dinner in our little room to-day, which is large enough for a few people. The Grand Duke has quite lost his heart to Arthur, and Bertie [Prince of Wales] pleased him also very much. In talking together last night, Louis said what I feel so often, that he always felt as if it must come right again some time, and we should find dear Pa- pa home again. In another hoi7ic we shall. October 30th. The Grand Duke was quite overcome when I gave him the photographs, and with Baby's [Prin- cess Beatrice's] he is quite enchanted, and wishes * The Princess Alice's private secretary. IN HER NEV/ HOME. 49 me to tell you how grateful he is, and how much he thanks you. Yeu cannot think hozv pleased he was, and the more so \\\2X you sent them him. He has a warm' heart and feels very much for you, and takes a warm interest in all my brothers and sisters. I am glad you are going to see dear Fritz of Ba- den ; he will be so pleased. We shall see Louise at Coblenz. The plans for our house have come, and even the simplest is far above what we poor mortals can build. November 6th. % * * Yesterday, Mrs. Combe, widow of George Combe and daughter of Mrs. Siddons, came to see me and was with me some time. She is a clever, amiable old lady. It gave me such pleasure to see and talk with her. Will you tell Sir James Clark so, as she is an old friend of his. 1863. Each visit to her old home seemed to eive fresh life to Princess Alice, and it can therefore be easily understood how great her happiness was at beini; again under her mother's roof and care, there to await the realization of her fondest hopes. It was also a great comfort to the Princess to spend the first anniversary of her father's death with her family around her. On the 1 8th of December, 1862, the remains cf the Prince Consort were placed in a temporary sar- cophagus, in the centre of the newly-erected mauso- leum at Frogmore in the presence of the Prince of 50 PHINCESS ALICE. Wales, Prince Arthur, Prince Leopold, and Prince Louis of Hesse. Prince Louis occupied much of his time during his long stay in England in making a number of inter- estinij visits to the chief industrial centres, and to military arsenals and depots. Princess Alice met with a carriage accident on the last day of the old year, which happily was followed by no bad consequences. On the loth of March, 1863, the Prince of Wales was married to the Princess Alexandra of Denmark, at St. George's Chapel, Windsor Castle, in the pres- ence of the whole Royal family. It was the first Royal marriage which had been celebrated in that chapel since the marriage of Henry L, in 1122. Soon after, on Easter Sunday, the 5th of April, 1863, Princess Louis of Hesse gave birth to a daughter at Windsor Castle. This event was made known next day at Darmstadt by the firing of twenty-one guns. The best possible news con- tinued to be received of the well-doing of mother and child. The little Princess was christened on the 27th of April, at Windsor, by the Hessian Court chap- lain, Bender. She received the names of Victoria Alberta Elizabeth Matilda. The Princes Alexan- der and Henry of Hesse represented the Grand Ducal family at the christening. Princess Alice completed her recovery during a IN HER NEW HOME, 5 I stay at Osborne, in May, and while there was able to accompany the Queen on a visit to the Military Hos- pital at Netley. After a short stay in London, Prince and Princess Louis of Hesse and their little dauQ^hter returned to Darmstadt. They spent the summer months at Kranichstein, a shooting-lodge near Darmstadt, be- longing to the Grand Duke. The Princess employed her time in becoming better acquainted with her adopted country, its inhabitants, their customs, and ways of thinking. The Congress of German Potentates and Princes at Frankfort, in August, brought the Princess in con- tact with many crowned heads. She proved herself her father's true child in regard to politics. The Prince Consort had always longed for an united Germany, with Prussia at its head, and a Liberal constitution. Princess Alice's letters will show how truly German her feelings were in the Schleswig- Holstein question, which at that time, owing to the death of King Frederick VII. of Denmark, and the claims made by his successor. King Christian IX., to the succession in the Duchies also, assumed a European interest, and led to consequences of permanent importance in the history of Europe. The accounts of the manner in which the Prince and Princess Louis endeavored to fulfil their social duties throw a significant light upon the way in which the young Princess discharged her duties as the mistress of her home. 52 PRINCESS ALICE. In August the Princess met Queen Victoria at Coburg ; and afterward had the happiness of re- ceiving Her Majesty and her sisters Helena, Louise and Beatrice, and her brother Alfred, on a short visit at Kranichstein. A few weeks later the Prince and Princess with their child joined the Queen at Balmoral, where nearly all the members of the Royal family were as- sembled. In November they returned to Darmstadt, where, during their absence, the new palace had made rapid progress, and was roofed in. It was built on a site given by the Grand Duke, and after plans designed by the Princess herself. The arrangement of the interior was entirely carried out by herself in a man- ner both practical and artistic. In December, Prince Louis' only sister, Anna, was ensfaofed to be married to the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, an event which gave great satisfaction at the time. The Princess spent her first Christmas in Germany this year — 1863. Marlborough House, May 14th. Dearest Mama : — Our parting this morning was most painful to both of us — from you to whom we owe so much, and whom we love so dearly. May God comfort and support you, beloved Mama, on your sad and weary pilgrimage ! Marlborough House, May i6th. I could not get your dear face and your sweet voice out of my mind for an instant, and everywhere I thought I must see you or dear Papa. It seemed IN HER NEW HOME. 53 SO strange ; I had the tears in my eyes all day. The worst was the opera, for I had never been without you or Papa, and all was the same and yet so different. It was very trying to me ; and so will the drawing-room be to-day. * * =;= j s^^v Lady Jocelyn, Duchess of Manchester, Sir Charles Locock, and Lord Alfred Paget, to show them baby, and all find her like what we all were. How much we have to thank for in her name. Your affection for her and all you have done for her have touched us more than I can say. It seemed to me quite wrong to take her from you. On Wednesday, Alix [Princess of Wales] and myself go to the studios. This morning we drove in Battersea Park. May 19th. * * * The drawing-room was long, but Alix and I were not so tired, considering the length of time, for we stood, excepting twenty minutes, in the middle, when there was a block and the people could not come. In to-day's letter you mention again your wish that we should soon be with you again. Out of the ten months of our married life five have been spent under your roof, so you see how ready we are to be with you. Before next year Louis does not think we shall be able to come ; at any rate when we can we shall, and I hope we shall be able to see you for a day or two in Germany to divide the time. Darmstadt, May 23d. * * * Baby "" has been so much admired, and all the clothes you gave her. * Princess Victoria of Hesse. 54 PRINCESS ALICE. Darmstadt, May. I sha'n't have time to write more than a few words, as we have just returned from church and are going" to Mayence till Wednesday. The Grand Duke came all the way to Kranichstein yesterday to go about with us, and see how to arrange it comfortably. He is most kind, and sat an hour with me. We have received two deputations this morning, and my things, which ought to have been here be- fore us, only arrived to-day. Mayence, June 2d. There was a large dinner yesterday ; the Nassaus dined here, and this morning we have been to Bie- brich. The Duke and Duchess, Nicolas Nassau, Marianne of Prussia,* her sister the Duchess of Altenburcf, and Landgrave William were there. They were most kind and civil. We hurried back in time for dinner. The Grand Duke is most kind, has taken me everywhere about himself — into the Dom, into several shops, etc. Now when I return I shall have to unpack and pack again for Kranichstein, and arrange the house there, which has not been lived in for eighty years, so that for writing I have barely a moment. I have good accounts of baby, whom all the old gentlemen run out of their houses to look at, when she walks in the garden, and try to tell Moffat [her nurse] what they think of her, but she of course un- derstands nothinor. Darmstadt, June 3d. I write to you to-day, as Louis is going for all day to Worms to-morrow, and I am going to Jugenheim to Uncle Alexander. It is already warm here, and we are going in a day or two into the country. * Princess Frederick Cliailes, mother of the Duchess of Connaught. IN HER NEW HOME. 55 The Queen of Prussia passes through here to-day, and I shall probatly hear from her what her inten- tions are about England. I have received a splendid bracelet from the Empress of Russia — for baby's picture. She is said to be far from well. Darmstadt, June 6th. * * * Louis was away from four o'clock yester- day morning till eleven at night. He was at Worms with Uncle Louis. Tuesday is his birthday, and we shall very likely go on Monday to Mayence, as Uncle Louis is always wishing for us. I took a walk at Jugenheim yesterday with Uncle Alexander, his wife and children, of more than two hours, and it was so beautiful, and numberless little birds sincrincf. Uncle Alexander was so 8;rateful for all your kindness, and was above all so charmed with you. It always makes me so happy to be able to talk about you, and to hear you appreciated as you ought to be, darling Mama. June 8tli. * * * Baby sits up quite strong, and looks about and laughs. She has got on wonderfully, and she is so good. She was an hour with us yesterday evening wide awake, and so good. She is as well and as strong as any child could be. To-day we go to Mainz, and to-morrow night from thence to Kran- ichstein. All our beds must be moved meanwhile, as there are none in the house. Kranichstein, June 12th. Louis went at six this morning to Darmstadt for the inspection of his regiment by Uncle Louis. Princess Charles' birthday is on the i8th. The Grand Duke will be at P^riedberg, and we are to go for the day, which will be rather tiring, as it is a 56 PRINCESS ALICE. good way by rail and back again, and we have to wait an hour at Frankfort. Louis is going to take his seat in the Chamber on the 23d. He was unable to do so last year, as we left for England two days before the time. June 19th. * * * You ask me again if I occupy myself much and seriously ? Not a moment of the day is wasted, and I have enough to read and to think about : what with the many and different papers, and inter- esting books. Dr. Becker comes daily, and I have a ofood deal to look after. We have a dinner to-day — Prince and Princess Charles, Uncle Adalbert, Anna, William, and the suites. June 23d. * * ''' You will be amused to hear that I have taken a little black (a Malay) into my service. He is a dear good boy, was brought over two years ago by a gentleman, to whom he was given away by his own parents as a mark of gratitude for some service done. This man has had him here tw^o years, but has never had him taught any thing. He has no re- ligion, and can neither read nor write. I am going to have him taught, and, later, christened. He is very intelligent, thirteen years old. We shall remain here for the present ; we go about a good deal seeing things near by, and then it is the first time we have our household and stable, so that on account of Haushaltung [housekeeping], etc., we are going to remain here for a little time. It is very pleasant besides, and constant moving is far too expensive for us. We give dinners here, which are also useful, as I know so few people. IN HER NEW HOME. 5/ Some of the Standesherren are coming to-morrow, and later some hi the Abgeordneten [Deputies] of the Second Chamber, which will give us an oppor- tunity of making the acquaintance of some of the Liberals in the country. I cannot get rid of my rheumatism, which is so unpleasant. Louis is very busy ; he reads to me sometimes out of Lord Macaulay's last volume of the English History, which I had not yet read. Twice a week Louis takes drill with his cavalry regiment, and he has to ride out at six in the morning, as it is some way off June 27th, * * * I bathe every morning and swim about; there is a nice little bathing-house. I hear baby shrieking out of doors ; she does not cry very much, but she is very passionate. She was vaccinated two days ago by Dr. Weber, and I am going to be done next week ; the sma!l-pox is at Darmstadt, and a man died of it yesterday. Louis is very industrious and busy ; he has all the papers of the Stande [State papers] to read and look through, and reads other useful books, besides papers and other things which he must read. He wrote to Lord Derby to express his thanks for hav- ing been made a Doctor at Oxford. He takes a great deal of exercise, riding, walking, rowing, swim- ming. We get up at six every morning, and go to bed after ten. Louis has always a good deal to do at home, and a good many things which would never be expected of him in England. He knows the necessity and importance of working. I hope next month Uncle Ernest '"' will come to us for a day on his way back * Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha. 58 PRINCESS ALICE. from Homburg. He has asked us for a few days to the Calenberg whilst you are in Germany, and then in the winter we hope to be for a few days at Gotha. The LiJtzows,* and Miss Seymour dine with us to-day. June 30th. Lady Fife is at Homburg, and is coming to dine with us. To-morrow all the family and some other people come to dinner. We have seen a good many people ; we receive in the morning or for dinner. Dalwigk gave a large soiree in the woods, with a supper for us, last night. All the Standesherren and Foreign Ministers were there. To-morrow is our dear wedding-day. With what gratitude do I look back to that commencement of such happiness, and such real and true love, which even daily increases in my beloved husband. Oh, may we not be deprived of it too soon ! I admire and respect him for his true-hearted, generous, un- selfish, and just nature ! Oh, dear Mama, if you only knew how excellent he is ! I wish I were good like him, for he is free from any selfish, small, or uncharitable feelings. You should see how he is beloved by all his people ; our servants adore him. I open my heart to you, who have so warm and sympathizing a heart, that even in the midst of such deep grief and sorrow as yours will listen to what your children, who love you dearly, long to say. Our little one is grown so pretty ; she has little pink cheeks, and is so fat and so good-humored. I often think her like you when she smiles. July 2d. You can fancy how much we thought of this day * Count Lutzow was at this time the Austrian Minister and Plenipoten- tiary at the Court of Darmstadt. IN HER NEW HOME. 59 last year, and of you and all the love and kindness you showed us then. How truly we both love you, and, when we can, how willingly we shall come to your side, and be of the least use to you, you know, for I feel for you and with you, more than words can describe. Our first large dinner yesterday went off very well. We make our arrangements, sitting, etc., all as you and dear Papa had it, which is new here, but I am happy to say, approved of. We always dine at four. Baby appeared afterward, and really never cries when she is shown, but smiles, and seems quite amused. She is immensely admired, particularly for her healthy appearance and fine large eyes. I really think her like you now ; she is very much changed, and, when she sits up, looks so pretty and dear. To-day we have again a dinner. Th«re is a fine dining-room and drawing-room here, so that we can see a good many people. July 4th. Shortly we are going to pay Prince Solms-Lich,the president of the First Chamber, a visit. He is very liberal on the whole, rich, and a nice old gentleman. He knew Grandpapa in the year 1820, also Uncle Charles, Uncle Hohenlohe, Aunt Feodore, and Eliza. Lady Fife, Annie, and Mr. Corbett from Frankfort are coming to us to-day. The Grand Duke of Weimar was here yesterday for dinner at the Schloss. What you said about Germany is so true ; and Louis has the real good of his country near at heart. They always have to vote for or against what the Second Chamber brings forward, and the other day a vote was sent in from the Liberals for an altera- 6o PRINCESS ALICE. tion of a press law. Only one voice in the whole Chamber was for it, which was Louis', and this pro- duced a very good effect among the Liberals. He is no coward, and will say what he thinks, if it is necessary, even if all are against him. Kranichstein, July 15th. To-day is Uncle Alexander's birthday, and we have to drive for dinner to Seeheim. To-morrow morning we leave for Lich at five in the morning. Two nights ago a horrid and schatierliches [ap- palling] event took place here. I went out about eight down to the pond, which is close to the house, to meet Louis. I met an odd-looking pale man, who neither bowed nor looked about, walking slowly along ; and when I joined Louis he asked me if I had seen him, as he had been prowling about all the after- noon. W^stopped a little longer, when at the end our grooms were running. We rowed on to see what was the matter, and on coming near, a body was floating in the water, the face already quite blue and lifeless. I recognized him at once. Louis and the others with trouble fished him out and laid him in our boat to bring him on shore. It was very horrid to see. We brought him on shore, tried all means to restore him to life, but of no avail. He was^ carried into the stable. He had committed suicide, and we heard afterward that he was a very bad character. You can fancy that it was very un- pleasant to me, to have that disfigured corpse next me in the boat ; and it haunts me now, — for a vio- lent death leaves frightful traces, so unlike any thing else. But half or quarter of an hour before, I had passed that man in life, and so shortly after to see him floating by quite lifeless ! It brings death be- fore one in its worst form, when one sees a bad man IN HER NEW HOME. 6 1 die by his own hand. The indifference with which the other people treated it, and dragged him along, was also revolting to one's feelings; but one must be manly, and not mind those things ; yet I own it made me rather sick, and prevented my sleep that night. "l am glad we are going away for a few days ; the change will be pleasant. It was such a pleasure to me to have seen dear Lady Frances Baillie the other day, and she was looking well, though she is very thin. You kindly gave me our dear Papa's Farm-book for the Farmers' Union here ; the people are so touched and pleased. I send you the letter of thanks to read. LiCH, July 1 8th. * * * We leave to-morrow afternoon for Frank- fort, and the next day we go to Homburg on the way home. The Prince and Princess are most kind and civil ; they have a fine Schloss, and are rich. The latter is clever and amiable, and the young peo- ple — their nephews and nieces — are very nice and very kind. It is a fine, rich country, and they seem very much beloved. The sister of the Princess, Princess Solms-Laubach, nee Biidingen, is here also. Her husband was in the Prussian service, and they lived at Bonn whilst dear Papa was there. He came to see them and to spend the evening there very often. She told me how handsome he then was, and how much praised and liked by all. She asked after Rath Florschiitz,* and Eos,f and if dear Papa continued later on to be so sleepy of an evening, as he was even then. * Tutor of llie Prince Consort during his boyhood and early youth, f A favorite greyhound of the Prince Consort's, which he brought to Eng- land at the time of his marriage. 62 PRINCESS ALICE. Kranichstein, July 21st. Our visit at Lich went off very well. Everything is so vornehm [in such good style] and so well arran^red. July 23d, We are going to give Heinrich * a rendezvous somewhere, perhaps at Kreuznach, which is not very far. On August 1st, we are going to the north of the country, — a part which I do not know, — and on the way we stop at Giessen, where we have been invited to see an agricultural exhibition. On Monday we give a tea and a dance — between fifty and sixty people. The advantage of this place is its nearness to Darmstadt, and that there is room enough to re- ceive people. The Russian and French ambassadors, with their wives, and Mr. Corbett and Lord Robert S. Kerr, dine with us to-day. July 27th. I have no news to give. To-night we give our first large party — seventy people. August I St. Yesterday we were all day at Rumpenheim : so kindly received ! The Landgrave, his two brothers, Frederic and George, the Dowager Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, her daughter Duchess Caroline, Aunt Cambridge, Mary, Augusta, and Adolphus ; Fritz and Anna of Hesse and good Princess Louise, kindness itself. Aunt Cambridge was very amiable, and spoke most tenderly of you. To-morrow morn- ing Louis goes to Oberhessen, where I join him in two days. I go to see Uncle Alexander at Jugen- heim ; go on Monday to Friedberg, where there is Prince Henry of Hesse, brother of Prince Louis. IN HER NE W HOME. ()l an asylum for blind people, of which I am Protectorin [Patroness]. I go to see it, and sleep at the Castle. The rrext day I stop on my road to see Marburg, and shall be in the evening at Alsfeld, where I find Louis. The next day I go on to Herr von Riedesel at Altenburg, where I breakfast, and I dine and spend the night with another Riedesel family at Eisenbach. Louis joins me that evening. The next day we go on though the country, as the people are anxious to see us, and the country is very beautiful. On Thursday and Friday we shall be at Giessen, on Saturday at home. Giessen, August yth. I am very hot and tired ; we have only just reached this place, and have to go out almost immedi- ately to see the animals and machines. Our journey has been most prosperous, but rather tiring, and the heat quite fearful. We were most kindly received everywhere. English, Hessian, German flags everywhere, and Gcsangvereine of an evening. Last night we slept at Schotten, and posted from thence to-day through a lovely, rich, wooded, and mountainous district, the Voeelsbere. We have had but one room everywhere, and have remained only long enough at a place to see it, so that writing has been impossible. To-morrow evening we return to Kranichstein, and then I will write to you an account of every thing. Here, with no time, and with such heat and noise, it is impossible. Kranichstein, August 9th. * •!= =!= We went, when I last wrote to you at Giessen, to see the different machines at work, in a crowd close round us and a smotherinof heat. It was interesting, though, in spite of all. The people 64 PRINCESS ALICE. cheered and were very civil. That day, at the meet- ing of the agriculturists, Count Laubach told me dear Papa's book lay on the table, and is of the greatest use and interest. I am so pleased to have been the first in Germany to make known some- thing of Papa's knowledge in this science, one of the many in which dear Papa excelled. The people are so grateful to you for having sent it. In the evening the president and some other scientific gen- tlemen came to tea with us. I was so glad to see how pleased the people were at the interest Louis takes in these things. A procession was really very pretty; large carts, decorated with the different agri- cultural emblems, peasants in their different cos- tumes — it was something quite new to me. At Marburg, I saw in the beautiful church the grave of St. Elizabeth, the castle where she lived, and many other things which Kingsley mentions in his " Saint's Tragedy." This week the Emperor of Austria and other po- tentates came to Frankfort. The Kin^" of Prussia has refused, so that now, as it is not a universal meeting, it will not be what it might have been. August 19th. * * * The Emperor came all the way to Kranichstein to pay us a visit, and is very amiable, though not very talkative. Archduke William, King Max, and the Duke of Brunswick were also here yesterday. We saw the procession to the Romer from a small room, already filled by twelve Rumpenheimers ! It was a very interesting sight. August 2ISt. * * * This evening all the crowned heads IN HER NEW HOME. 65 nearly are coming to the opera, and the Riimpen- heimers very Hkely also. Uncle Ernest comes to us for dinner, and we take him wilh us. August 24lh. * * * We dined at Homburg yesterday after- noon with the old hereditary Grand Duchess of Schwerin, Louis' great-aunt, who is eighty-six. and as fresh and lively as ever. The Duke of Alten- buror and the Grand Duke of Schwerin were with us, and both of them wish to have their respectful duty sent to you. [During the months of September and October the Princess was in EnMand on a visit to the Queen.] Buckingham Palace, October 28th. Thousand thanks for your dear lines! How sad that we should be reduced to writing again ! It was such a happiness to speak to you, and in return to hear all you hiid to say, — to try and soothe you, and try to make your burden lighter. I always feel sep- aration from you so much, tor 1 feci for and with you, more, oh, far more, than I can ever express! I can only say again, trust, hope, and be courageous, and every day will bring something in the fulfilment of all your great duties, which will bring you peace, and make you feel that you are not forsaken, that God has heard your prayer, felt for you, as a loving Father would, and that d{>ar Papa is not far from you. We remain here to-night, as Louis had a bad sick-headache, toothache, and so on, and he must rest. We leave to-morrow afternoon. Affie [Prince Alfred] and William (of Hesse) 66 PRINCESS ALICE. were very well, and seem quite happy together. Affie sends love, and William his respects. Darmstadt, November 2d. Before going out (half-past six) I begin these lines. You will have heard what an awful passage we had. Christa and I had one of those cabins near the paddle-box, and good old May "^ was with us. Each wave that broke on the ship Christa and I groaned, and May exclaimed : " Oh, goodness, gra- cious me ! what an awful sea ! Lord bless you, child, I hope it is all safe ! " and so on. If we had not been so wretched, and had not looked so awful with those mountains of waves about us, I should have laughed. All the maids and Moffat were sick. Baby was sick all over her nice new shawl, which was a great grief. Uncle Louis and Uncle Gustav received us at the station. My parents-in-law don't return till Wednes- day. Yesterday Uncle Louis gave us a large din- ner, and to-day he dines enfauiille in our house with Prince Adalbert of Bavaria, Uncle Gustav,-}- and ourselves. I was quite done up by this journey. At four in the morning we changed carriages at Cologne, and ' did not get here till past twelve o'clock — twenty-nine hours under way. November 5th. * * * Yesterday evening Louis and I were at a chemical lecture, which was very interesting, by young Hallnachs, the brother of the one Becker spoke to you about. Our house is getting on very well, and we are often there. ♦Mrs. Hull, a former nurse of the Princess and her brothers and sisters, f Prince Gustav Wasa, first cousin to Prince Charles of Hesse. IN HER NEW HOME. 6/ Louis is very*grateful and touched by your kind message, and kisses your hand. He is often away for those tiresome Jagden [shooting-parties] from five in the morning till eight at night, as it is some way off. November 14th. It is not yet eight, and I have such cold fingers. The messenger leaves at nine, so I must write now. We are going to Mayence to-day, to see a house of our architect Kraus, which is said to be very pretty and very English. I paid Becker and his mother a visit yesterday. Their rooms are so nice, pictures and presents from you and dear Papa in all directions, remembrances of past, such happy, years ! Yesterday also I drove baby out in my little car- riajje. She sat on Christa's knees and looked about her so much ; she went to sleep at last. November 17 th. * * "■ Yesterday I was all the morning with Julie Battenberg buying Christmas presents. To-day also I am much occupied. We get up at seven, with candles, every morning, as this is the best time for doing all business, and breakfast at eight. November 21st. % -X- vc yj^g Holstein question, I fear, will lead to war. Fritz' * rio^hts are so clear. And I am sure all Germany will help him to maintain his rights, for the cause is a just one. I am sure, dear Mama, you are worried to death about it, which is very hard, for you cannot undo what once exists. Any thing only to avoid war ! It would be a sad calamity for Germany, the end of which no one can foresee. * The late Duke Frederic of Augustenburg. 68 PRINCESS ALICE. My baby has this morning cut her first tooth, and makes such faces if one ventures to touch her little mouth. To-day I am going to visit the hospital in the town, which is said not to be good or well looked after. I want to be able to do something for it, and hope to succeed, for the people have plenty of money, only not the will. The Burgomaster and Gemeinderath [the Town Councillors] will meet me there. I have just called into life what did not exist — that is, linen to be lent for the poor women in their confinements, and which I hope will be of use to them, for the dirt and discomfort is very great in those classes. November 28th, * * * My visit to the hospital was very inter- esting, and the air was good, the place clean and fresh. There were few people dangerously ill there, and they looked well taken care of. Air and water are making their way into these places to the benefit of mankind. I was so much distressed the other day ; for the poor man who fell in our house has died. He was * a soldier, and so respectable and industrious, not above twenty-four. This is already the second who has died in consequence of a fall. Our visit to Carlsruhe was very pleasant. The Queen [of Prussia] was there, and we spoke so much of you together. She enters quite into all your feelings, and perfectly understands all the sad trials and difficulties of your position in addition to your just and natural grief. November 3olh. A few words of love and affection from us both on IN HER NEW HOME. 69 this dear day — the third anniversary of the com- mencement of ail our happiness, which dear Papa and you enabled us to form. Those happy days at Windsor and those awful days the year after! I assure you the season, the days, all make me sad — for the impression of those two years can never be wiped out of my mind. I can write but a few lines, as to-morrow we leave for Amorbach, and to-day I go with Louis out shooting. It is cold and fine, as it was two years ago. Darling Mama, again and again we thank you and beloved Papa for all your love to us at that time. Amorbach, December 2d. * * * We arrived here at half-past four yes- terday, after a bitter cold drive in an open carriage over hard roads^ all being frozen, since ten in the morning. The country we came through was beauti- ful, though all white, up and down hill all the way, through many villages, through woods, etc. The house is large and comfortable, full of souvenirs of dear Grandmama [Duchess of Kent], of Uncle Charles. I am so pleased to be with Ernest and Marie,* it is a bit of home again. Darmstadt, December 6th. * * * Our visit to Amorbach was so pleasant, though the weather was bad. I was so happy to be once more with Ernest and Marie. Edward f was very amusing and good-natured. I saw poor old Wagner, J who wishes me to send you his duty. December 8th. * * * Think, only yesterday evening at a * Prince and Princess of Leiningen. \ Prince Leiningen's brother. \ Former tutor to Prince Leiningen's father. 70 PJilNCESS ALICE. concert the}^ played " Riiy Bias," which I had not heard since Windsor. The room, the band, dear Papa, all came before me, and made my heart sink at the thought that that belonged to the bright recol- lections of the past ! I cried all the way home. Such trivial things sometimes awaken recollections more vividly, and hurt more keenly, than scenes of real distress. I am sure you know what I mean. December 12th. * * ''• I must close ; my tears fall fast, and I ought not to make you sadder, when you are sad enough already. Pray for me when you kneel at his grave — pray that my happiness may be allowed to last long ; think of me when you kneel there where on that day my hand rested on your and Papa's dear hands, two years ago. That bond between us both is so strong, beloved Mama. I feel it as a legacy from him. December 22d. A great pleasure I have had in arranging a tree for our good servants. I bought all the things myself at the market, and hung them on the tree ; then I also got things for darling Louis. December 26th. ■V. :!: :•: ^y^ ^jj j-^^j trecs lu one large room in the Palace, and our presents underneath it looked extremely pretty. Uncle Alexander's five children were there, and made such a noise with their play- things. Baby had a little tree early at her Grandpapa and Grandmama's, with all her pretty things. Many thanks for the turkey-pie ; we give a dinner to-day in honor. IN HER NEW HOME. 7 1 1864. The year 1864 was a most eventful one for Ger- many. After a severe struggle, the Duchies of Schleswie-Holstein were wrested from the control of the German Confederation or Diet at Frankfort, and occupied by Austrian and Prussian troops. The Princess' own life that year was full of joyful events, and no cloud of sorrow came to disturb her hap- piness. The marriaee of Princess Anna of Hesse, which took place on the 12th of May, was a cause of great rejoicing to the family. During the first months of the year the Prince and Princess paid several short visits to Gotha, Carlsruhe, and Munich, and in the summer spent three happy months in Encrland. On their return to Germany they received numer- ous guests at Kranichstein. But in spite of the many social duties and distractions in which the Princess took an active part, she never lost sight of more serious duties and pursuits. She became the " Pro- tectress " of the " Heidenreich Institution for Lying- in Women," which was the beginning of the active interest afterward taken by her in all sanitary im- provements. This interest was heightened by the birth of her second daughter, who was born on the 1st of November, 1864, and christened on the 28th of that month, receiving the names of Elizabeth Alexandra Louise Alice. The Princess was very proud of being able to nurse her child herself, and 72 PjRIMCESS ALICE. from this time she took up with the keenest interest all questions relating to the physical, mental, and moral training of children. She found an able sup- porter and independent adviser in Dr. Weber, a very eminent medical man, resident at Darmstadt. January 5th. * * * The cold here is awful. I skated yes- terday, and to-day we are going to the pond at Kranichstein. (Very few people skate here — only one lady, and she very badly.) Baby only goes out for half an hour in the middle of the day, well wrapped up. It would not do to keep her quite at home, as she would become so sensitive when first taken out again. Of course when it is windy or too cold she stops in. January 9th. I was ao^hast on receivinof Bertie's tele^rram this mornincr announcine the birth of their little son. Oh, may dear Papa's blessing rest on the little one ; may it turn out like dear Papa, and be a comfort and a pride to you, and to its young parents ! Your first English grandchild. Dear Mama, my heart is so full. May dear Alix and the baby only go on well ! January i6th. ::•: ••;: I3a^|3y says " Papa," " Mama," and yester- day several times " Louis." She imitates every thing she hears, all noises and sounds ; she gets on her feet alone by a chair, and is across the room b:ffore one can turn round. Her adoration for Louis is touching. She stops always, since the summer, alone in our room, so she never cries for Moffat [her nurse], and is very happy on the floor with her play- things. She is a very dear little thing and gets on IN' HER NEW HOME. 73 very fast, but equally in all things, and is as fat as she was. It is so interesting to watch the progress and development of such a little being ; and baby is so expressive, she makes such a face when she is not pleased, and laughs so heartily when she is con- tented. She is more like a child of two years old a great deal. Goth A, January 2 2d. After a very cold journey we arrived here on Wednesday afternoon. I found dear uncle and aunt well, Leopoldine (who is very dear and nice) and Hermann,* Edward and Marie Leiningen, and Prince Lowenstein here. Only Hermann and Leo- poldine live in the Castle besides us ; the others are all at uncle's house. January 30th. * * * These poor Schleswig-Holsteiners do what they can to liberate themselves from the Danish yoke, and to regain their lawful sovereign, Fritz. And why is England, who stands up for freedom of countries, who in Italy, where there was less cause, did what she could to liberate the country from her lawful sovereigns, to do what she can to prevent the Schleswig-Holsteiners from liberating themselves from a king who has no right over them, merely be- cause they are unfortunate good-natured Germans, who allow themselves to be oppressed ? February 5lh. In the distance, dear Mama, one really cannot judge correctly of reasons for or against things, when one does not exactly know how every thing stands. * Prince and Princess Hermann of Hohenlohe-Langenburg. 74 PRINCESS ALICE. February 14th. :i: .-I: -^y^ ^avc becii in sledges to-day, and everybody drives about die town with tliem ; it sounds so pretty, all the jingling bells. * * •'=' Shakespeare's words came home to him — Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown. Thank God, my husband has none ! I thank the Almighty daily for our peaceful homely life, in which sphere we can do a good deal of good to our fellow- creatures, without having to mix in those hateful politics. Our life is a very, very happy one. I have noth- ing on earth to wish for, and much as I loved my precious Louis when I married him, still more do I love him now and daily ; for his character is worthy of love and respect, and a better husband or father, a more unselfish and kind one, there does not live. His love for you, you know ; and on our return how glad we shall be to be near you once more. February i6th. Louis is in the Chamber to-day from nine till one, long enough at a stretch, and immediately after breakfast. We always breakfast at eight ; then Louis sees the three officers who come every morn- ing on his military business, then Westerweller and all others who have business. We usually walk be- fore luncheon, w^hich is at twelve ; and often drive at two or three. At five we dine ; at half-past six, theatre, four times a week, till half-past nine ; then we take tea together, Louis reads to me, and I work. On other week-days there are concerts or parties. We are often in our new house, and in the garden, arranging things and watching the progress. IN HER NEW HOME. 75 We also go to lectures here, and are much occupied, which makes the day pass so quickly. ,. • March ist. I have learned much since I married, and, above all, not to be dependent on others in my existence. To be able to make a bright and comfortable home for my dear husband is my constant aim ; but even in this one often fails, for self constantly turns up, like a bad sixpence. Oh, how dear Papa spoke about that ! His whole noble life was that one brio;ht example of sacrificing himself to his duty. Dear, adored Papa ! such goodness, such love, when one thinks of it, must silence all complaints of petty troubles in the mouths of his children and servants. You, dear Mama, are the one who suffers the most, though this awful loss has touched all ; and to soothe your grief and to help you lightens one's own. March 5 th. * * * Spring always makes me so wchiniitJiig [sad], I don't know why ; one longs for every thing and any thing which is out of one's reach. I will tell you of something I did the other day ; but please tell no one, because not a soul but Louis and my ladies know of it here. I am the patroness of the " Heidcnreich Stiftung," to which you also gave a handsome present in the beginning. The ladies who belong to it go to bring linen to poor respect- able Wdchnerin7ie7i [women in child-bed], who claim their assistance. They bring them food, and, in short, help them. All cases are reported to me. The other day I went to one incog, with Christa, in the old part of the town — and the trouble we had to find the house ! At length, through a dirty court- yard, up a dark ladder into one little room, where 76 FRJNCESS ALICE. lay in one bed the poor woman and her baby ; in the room four other children, the husband, two other beds, and a stove. But it did not smell bad. nor was it dirty. I sent Christa down with the children, then with the husband cooked something" for the woman ; arranged her bed a little, took her baby for her, bathed its eyes — for they were so bad, poor little thing ! — and did odds and ends for her. I went twice. The people did not know me, and were so nice, so good and touchingly attached to each other ; it did one's heart good to see such good feelings in poverty. The husband was out of work, the chil- dren too young to go to school, and they had only four kreuzers in the house when she was confined. Think of that misery and discomfort ! If one never sees any poverty, arid always lives in that cold circle of Court people, one's good feel- ings dry up, and I felt the want of going about and doing the little good that is in my power. I am sure you will understand this. March 14th, My own Dear precious Mama: — These words are for the 1 6th, the first hard trial of our lives, where I was allowed to be with you. Do you recollect when all was over [death of the Duchess of Kent], and dear Papa led you to the sofa in the colonnade, and then took me to you f I took that as a sacred re- quest from him to love, cherish, and comfort my darl- ing mother to all the extent of my weak powers. Other things have taken me from being constantly with you ; but nothing has lessened my intense love for you, and longing to quiet every pain which touches you, and to fulfil, even in the distance, his request. Oh, darling Mama, were there words in which I IN HER NEW HOME. 77 could express to you how much I am bound up with you, how consfantly my thoughts and prayers are yours,! would write them. The sympathies of our souls can only tell each other how tender my love and gratitude to you is, and how vividly I feel every new trial or new thing with you and for you. * * * I was with another poor woman, even worse off, this morning, and on the third day she was walking in the room and nearly fainted from weakness, Those poor people ! March 26th. * * * Yesterday morning at nine we took the Sacrament — all the family and congregation together. The others then stopped for the rest of the service, till after eleven. I went home and returned for the English service at twelve. At half-past six, in the Stadtkirche, Bach's " Passion " was given. April 5th. To-day is Victoria's birthday. What a day it was this time last year ! Baby has her table in the room next to my sitting-room. Uncle Louis and the rest of the family expected to breakfast with us at twelve. Munich, April nth. * * ^ To-day, for the first time since the King's death,* the Queen and we all with our Gefolge [suite] dined in the Winter Garden. It seemed to try her very much, but she is so wonderfully quiet that she scarcely shows it. I was three hours with her yesterday evening. She spoke so kindly of you and with such sympathy and interest, and said, when dear Papa died, she had prayed for you so much. * King Maximilian II. of Bavaria had died on the loth of Ihe preceding month of March. The Queen is a sister of Prince Louis' mother. 78 PRINCESS ALICE. Munich, April 13th. * * * Between sight-seeing, and going to the Queen's room, and being with her, I have not a mo- ment scarcely to rest or write. Yesterday we visited the whole Schloss full of frescoes, and the studios of all the famous painters — so interesting. How dear Papa would have enjoyed it ! I was thinking the whole time what he would have thought of certain pictures, and how much he would have admired some. But at all times seeing things, and most of all pictures, is fatiguing. Darmstadt, April 21st. * '^ ^' On Monday Louis goes into the coun- try to shoot capercailzies \_Atccr ha/me]. I accom- pany him part of the way, but stop at Schweinsberg with Christa's parents. The air is very good there, and we thought the country would do me good. * * * We shall leave probably later [for Eng- land], after or just before your birthday. We have a great deal to do in London for our house, for which I should want a week ; and from Windsor to leave you for a whole week I should not like, and to go up constantly is rather tiring. We go from Mayence to Rotterdam by steamer, from thence by rail to Antwerp, and then wait for good weather to cross, so that we shall be long under way, but quite easily and comfortably. April 25th. * * * We shall leave the week of your birth- day. Louis wishes us to have a full fortnight in London. Schweinsberg, April 28th. * * * This is a charming country house, in a lovely healthy country ; the air has already done me IN HER NEW HOME. 79 much good. Christa's parents are charming, clever people, and the life is quiet and refreshing. On Saturday I expect Louis, and then we shall go home. Darmstadt, May 14th. Many thanks for your letter, and above all for your great kindness about the ships, for which I thank you many times. Christa and Becker wrote an account of the wed- ding, * so I won't write any more about it save that it went off very well and was very vornehin and well- arrano-ed. * * * I have borne the fatigues well ; but two days before, for two days and one night, I was very unwell. * * * Dr. Weber is a clever man, and is vielseitig [many-sided] in his views on medicine and treatment of illnesses. I think you will like him. Baby runs alone through two rooms without fall- ing now ; she learnt it in a week. She will amuse you so much. Yesterday Louis drove me and his two brothers in a break, and baby went with us much enchanted. May 17th. * * * To-morrow afternoon Fritz and Anna leave. To-day the town gives a large ball, to which we all go, and before it there is a dinner at the Schloss. May 2 1 St. * * * It is excessively hot, which makes me so tired and weak. I am sure you suffered dread- fully from the heat. . The parting from Anna three days ago was dread- ful ; she so distressed, and her parents also. "^^ * * * Of the Princess Anna of Ilesse with the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg- Schwerin. 8o PRINCESS ALICE. They begin their old age alone, so to say, for there are no children in their house any more. It makes us both very sad to leave them, and seems so unfeel- ing; but we shall return to them soon. What a blessing that you have Beatrice and two brothers, still boys ; and yet, for one alone what an anxiety ! Marlborough House, May 26th. Arrived here at half- past eleven, and quite rested. I at once write to you to thank you for your letter and for the great comfort of the ships. I feel so much better already from the air on the Rhine those two days, and the fresh sea air, that I have borne the journey this way with but little fatigue. I find Bertie and Alix both looking well, and the baby so pretty and dear. 1 slept during the whole night passage, as I went to bed early. I had about twelve hour's sleep, which has completely set me up. Louis is paying visits. We have lunched, and in the afternoon Bertie and Alix have promised to call on Lady Augusta and Dean Stanley, and we join them. Aunt Cambridge and Mary we shall see afterward. [From May to August the Princess was in Eng- land on a visit to the Queen.] Kranichstein, August 30th. * * * I have stood the journey well, though I am rather fatigued. It is very warm. Louis is off to Jugenheim. I am to go there to-morrow, and it takes my whole day, as it is so far. I have seen none of the family yet. I was so distressed to part from dear Ernest and Marie, they were so dear and good all along the journey.. The weather was beau- tiful and the passage good. IN HER NEW HOME. 8 1 September 2d, * * * I am so glad that, from all accounts, every thing* went off so very well at Perth*; it must have been most trying to you, and yet satisfactory. We read all the accounts you kindly sent us with much interest. * * ^' The Emperor [of Russia] with his second and third sons arrived yesterday. We saw him at the station at Darmstadt, but did not join them as the rest of the family did. We go to Jugenheim to- day and baby with us, as little Serge, f who is just Beatrice's age, has such a passion for her. The children are very nice, the two older sons very big. Uncle Gustav is here, which makes me think of you here this time last year. September 13th. * * "^ Two days ago we had intense heat, and since great cold — the two extremes constantly, which is so unwholesome. The Emperor is very grateful for your message, and sends his best re- membrance. '^ '^ ^ There were seven young men to dinner yesterday, and your glass was used for the first time and looked so pretty. September 17 th. * * ■^'' The Emperor and Empress [of Russia] be- fore leaving took a most tender farewell of us, and she gave me their Order. They return to Darm- stadt on the 27th for a fortnight, as it is now settled that the Empress is to spend the winter at Nice, and she may not go there till the beginning of October at the soonest, as it would be too warm. * * '■^- We are in the middle of the second vol- * The unveiling of a statue of the Prince Consort. f Grand Duke Serge. 82 PRINCESS ALICE. ume of Froude,* but it is too detailed to interest you ; you have far too much to do to be interested in it. * * "'^' Robertson's beautiful sermons we have also read together, and I have discovered that a German translation exists, and have ordered one. Mrs. Hardinge f leaves me the end of this month, I am sorry to say ; for she is very nice, discreet, and ready to do any thing, and not at all of the present bad English ^^«r^. September 20th. * * * What you say about the poor sisters, and indeed of all the younger ones, is true. The little brothers and Beatrice are those who have lost the most, poor little things ! I can't bear to think of it, for dear Papa, more peculiarly than any other father, was wanted for his children ; and he was the dear friend, and even playfellow, besides. Such a loss as ours is indeed unique. Time only increases its magnitude, and the knowledge of the want is felt more keenly. * * * I was yesterday in our little house, arraneine and clearinaf out the rooms. We shall have very close quarters, but it will not be un- comfortable. ■<• :;: * J often wish dear Papa could have seen what a treasure I have in my darling ; but I am sure he does see it, and his blessing with yours rests on us, for we seem not separated from either of you, our life is so interwoven with yours. Where people are unselfish, loving, good, and in- * The History of England from the Fall of Wolsey to the Death of Elizabeth. \ Wife of General the Hon. Arthur Hardinge, who was on a visit to the Princess. IN HER NEW HOME. 83 dustrious, like my dear Louis, I always feel a certain likeness beginning to grow up with our dear angel Fatlier ! Don't you? Oh, may we all only become like him! I struggle so hard, dear Mama, in the many little trials 1 daily have, to become more like him. My trials melt away when I think of you, and I wish I were ereat and strongr to be able to bear some of your great trials for you. Dear Mama, how I love you! how we both love you, and would shield you with our love from all new blows and trials, you know. God comfort you ! My heart is often too full to say all that is in it ; to tell you all my love and devotion, for your own precious sake, and for dear Papa's, who left you as a legacy to us all to love and to cherish for him. September 23d. To-morrow Louis, I, and my two ladies, take the sacrament in the little church here. I wished much to take it before my hour of trial comes. Dear Louis read to me yesterday evening Robertson's sermon on the " Sympathy of Christ." We have fine autumn weather, and I am out as much as I can. * *"" '^' I sleep well and break- fast always at half-past eight ; we dine at two, and take supper at eight, then my ladies read aloud, and I work or Christa plays, Louis reads his papers, etc. To myself I read Lord Malmesbury's " Memoirs," which are very curious, and when Louis has time he reads Froude to me. Kranichstein, October 4th. •5C- * * To-morrow dear Uncle Leopold [King of the Belgians] comes for a few hours. Louis will go to Darmstadt or Mayence to meet him, and I will receive him at the station, as none of the family know 84 PRINCESS ALICE. him. Louis is out shooting with the Emperor. Uncle Alexander's throat has already begun to be bad aoain. * -A- % I ^j^ writing quite a confused letter in the midst of household troubles, for the Emperor and Empress have just let me know that they wish to breakfast here, and Louis is out, and I don't know where or how to have the things in our small menage. I must therefore conclude and do my business. October 7th. -X- ^t -jf J |^^(-| the pleasure of seeing dear Uncle two days ago looking wonderfully well, and kind and dear as ever. * ^' * To-day I must go to a large family dinner. Fritz and Anna of Hesse, Grand Duchess Marie, and Prince and Princess William of Baden, besides ourselves, the family, and the Emperor and Empress. Darmstadt, October 14th. We are at length here, in great disorder, and I have been waiting half an hour only for a j^en to be found. I am tired and not very well. * * * Augusta [Lady Augusta Stanley] being with you I am very glad of, and she must be such a comfort to you, for besides being such a friend, she has that peculiar charm of manner which all the Bruces possess. October 21st. "" * * I am so grieved about poor Louise ; she will want much care and attention. Lady Car. [Caroline Barrington] is here since yesterday evening to my great delight, and is not looking the worse for her journey. October 29th. * * * To-morrow we expect Vicky and Fritz [Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia] for two IN HER NEW HOME. 85 hours, and later Bertie and Alix on their way back from AmorbachT for a few hours. I shall be delighted to se,8 them. October 31st. * * * Yesterday we had the pleasure of hav- ing dear Vicky and Fritz and baby here for two hours, the former well and in such good looks, as I have not seen her for long. The baby is a love, and very pretty. We were very glad after a year's sep- aration to meet again, and Vicky was so dear and loving. I always admire her understanding and brio-htness each time I see her arain ; and Fritz so good, so excellent. Bertie and Alix we expect in a day or two for a short visit. It is very cold, but not unpleasant. I go out twice a day. Darmstadt, November 7th. * * * The little daughter * was but a momen- tary disappointment to us, which we have quite got over. We console ourselves with the idea that the little pair will look very pretty together. November 20th. * * ■^•'- We are both very much pleased at the arrangements about Brown and your pony, and I think it is so sensible. I am sure it will do you good, and relieve a little the monotony of your out- of-door existence, besides doing your nerves good. I had long wished you would do something of the kind ; for, indeed, only driving is not wholesome. * "'■ '" I have had two drives, which have done me good. "• -5^ ■«• My mother-in-law has been kind- ness itself all along — so attentive and yet so discreet. I can't be grateful enough. My good father-in-law also. " "■ ''' Louis' mother is to be godmother, *The Princess Elizabeth was born on the ist of November, 1864. 86 PRINCESS ALICE. because it is customary here to ask some one of the name the child is to receive to stand on the occasion. We Hked Elizabeth on account of St. EHzabeth beine the ancestress of the Hessian as well as the Saxon House. November 26th. % :;: * -^g probably go to Carlsruhe on Wed- nesday, the only place we can well go to near by ; we can't take an inn at Baden or any thing of that sort, and we only go for a week or ten days at most. * * ■^" I am very well and very careful ; all peo- ple say I look better, and have more color than I have had for long, and, indeed, I feel strong and well, and my fat baby does perfectly, and is a great darline. Affie and Louis and his brother are out shooting. The horrid weather has kept me in these three days. November 29th. * * * I ought to mention the christening. My mother-in-law held baby all the time, and it screamed a eood deal. Victoria stood with us and was very good, only kneeling down and tumbling over the footstool every two minutes, and she kept whispering to me, " Go to Uncle's." I thought so much of the christening last year, when Victoria be- haved much better than her larger dark sister. Ella measured twenty-three and a half inches a fortnight ago, and she had not grown then. Victoria, I be- lieve, was twenty inches. Carlsruhe, December 5th. * * * Dear Dr. Macleod is coming with Affie to Darmstadt for the 14th. Vicky and Fritz will be with us also. How kind of him to come, and it has made Affie so happy, for he is so devoted to him. IN HER NEW HOME. 8/ Darmstadt, December loth. * * * We returned here yesterday, after a very pleasant stay at Carlsruhe. It was very quiet, and we were always en famille. We had the oppor- tunity of speaking much with Fritz, who is in every "w^ay so distinguished, and dear Louise is so good and kind. I have very little time to write to-day, as we ar- rived late last night. Louis has to be absent to-day, so I have a great deal to do. December 15th. I had not a moment to myself to write to you yesterday, and to thank you for the kind lines you sent me through dear Dr. Macleod. He gave us a most beautiful service, a sermon giving an outline of dear Papa's noble, great and good character, and there were most beautiful allusions to you in his prayer, in which we all prayed together most earnestly for you, precious Mama ! We talked lonsf toQfether afterward about dear Papa, and about you, and though absent were very near you in thought and prayer. Dear Vicky talked so lovingly and tenderly of you, and of how homesick she sometimes felt. She was not with us on that dreadful day three years ago, and that is so painful to her. Dear Affie was, as we all were, so much overcome by all Dr. Mac- leod said. Vicky, Affie, Louis, and myself sat in the little dining-room ; he read to us there. Fritz had left early in the morning. The day was passed quietly and peaceably together, and I was most grateful to have dear Vicky and Affie with me on that day. My dear Louis wishes me to express to you how tenderly he thought of you and with what sympathy on this sad anniversary. Never can we 88 PRINCESS ALICE. cease talking of home, of you and of all your trials. God bless and comfort you, my own dear Mama 1 1865. In the month of January of this year the Prince and Princess were at last able to carry out their in- tentions of visiting Berlin, which had several times been postponed. The Princess met with the great- est kindness and attention from the King and Queen of Prussia, who had been much attached to her since her childhood. A great grief fell upon the Grand Ducal family through the death of the young Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin, Prince Louis' only sister, whose recent marriage had given so much satisfac- tion to the family, and who died on the i6th of April, a few days after giving birth to a daughter. About the same time, the Cesarewitch Nicholas, eldest son of the Emperor of Russia, died at Nice. He was his mother's favorite son, and had been en- gaged to be married to Princess Dagmar of Den- mark (present Empress of Russia), the sister of the Princess of Wales. Princess Alice endeavored with all a daughter's love and sympathy to cheer her par- ents-in-law under their heavy bereavement. While the Prince and Princess were absent in Switzerland at the Rigi Kaltbad in the Bernese Alps, Queen Victoria spent one day at Kranichstein, and on the 26th of August gathered all her children IN HER NE IV HOME. 89 round her at Coburg. On that day the Prince Con- sort's statue on the market-place at Coburg was un- veiled. ' The yearly visit to England took place in the autumn, and the Prince and Princess spent a longer time than usual in the Highlands, where they made many delightful excursions. Soon after their return to Germany, the sad news reached them of the death of the Kine of the Bel- gians. Endeared by his personal character to his family and friends, he was also by reason of his statesmanlike qualities recognized as one of the most remarkable sovereigns of Europe. Allhouofh Princess Alice had lived but a short time at Darmstadt, she had already become the ac- knowledged centre of social life in that town. Her liberal and independent spirit, conflicting as it did with many local prejudices, exposed her to many criticisms; still, no one who came in contact with her could resist the charm of her appearance and manner. The Princess had, so to speak, not "yet taken root" in her adopted country ; but, acute and close observer as she was, she soon found where her own sphere of occupation lay, and what the agencies were by which she could work out her plans. Her letters show the love she bore to her new family, and the many useful enterprises which she now initiated for the well being of the country. January ist. * * * Thousand thanks for your dear words go PRINCESS ALICE. and for the wishes ! I was thinking so much of you and of home, when your letter came in. It made me so happy ! Darhng Mama, I can feel so much with and for you during these days. I was all day on the verge of tears, for the very word "■Netijahr" brought Papa and Grandmama, and all at Windsor as in former days, so vividly before me, it made my heart ache ! That bright happy past, particularly those last years, when I was the eldest at home, and had the privilege of being so much with you both, my own dearly loved parents, is a remembrance deeply graven, and with letters of gold, upon my heart. All the morning- I was tellinor Louis how it used to be at home, and how we all assembled out- side your dressing-room door to scream in chorus ''Prosit NeiijaJir ! " and to give to you and Papa our drawings, writings, etc., the busy occupation of pre- vious weeks. Then playing and reciting our pieces, where we often stuck fast, and dear Papa bit his lip so as not to laugh ; our walk to the riding-school [where the alms to the poor were distributed], and then to Frogmore. Those were happy days, and the very remembrance of them must bring a gleam of sunshine even to you, dear Mama. Those two dinners, when I was with you both, were such happy evenings. I am so grateful I remained at home, and lost not a day of those happy ones. At eight this morning we two went to church ; at half-past three there was a large dinner at the Schloss. I wore the bracelet with your pictures, as I always do on all particular days, for I like to be able to look at those dear faces. January 2d. We mean to go out sledging. The cold, and all the ground being white this last month, has given IN HER NEW HOME. 9 1 me such bad eyes. I can do nodiing of an evening at all, and readings even by daylight makes them so bad that they get quite red. The ladies read to me, instead, all sorts of instructive things. Louis has already found time to read through a whole volume of the " Lives of the Engineers." * You could not have sent any thing that would interest him more. He thanks you so much for the pretty New Year's wish also. January 14th. Thousand thanks for your dear letter, for the nice enclosure from Dr. Macleod, and for the beautiful sermon by Dean Stanley. One remark struck me as singularly applicable to dear Papa, where he says : " To die is gain ; to be no longer vexed with the sight of evil, which they cannot control," etc. — for dear Papa suffered when he saw others do wrong ; it pained that good pure spirit : and though we long for him and want him, if we could call him back — even you who want him so much, I think would pause before you gave vent to the wish that would recall him. -^ •^- * When trials come, what alone save faith and hope in a blessed future can sustain one ! * * * You can't think how much I am inter- ested in every little detail of your daily life. Besides, you know it cannot be otherwise. Please say kind- est things to Brown, f who must be a great con- venience to you. January 20th. * * :!: yi^g more one studies and tries to un- derstand those wonderful laws which rule the world, the more one wonders, worships, and admires that * By Dr. Samuel Smiles. \ John Brown, the Queen's personal attendant. 92 PRINCESS ALICE. which to us is so incomprehensible ; and I always wonder how there can be dissatisfied and orrumbline people in this beautiful world, so far too good for our deserts, and where, after our duty is done, we hope to be everlastingly with those we love, where the joy will be so great and lasting that present sor- row and trouble must melt away before that sun- shine. January 23d. * * * We have rain and warm high wind, and leave at four o'clock this afternoon. Ella has her bath as a bed, and Victoria sleeps in the bassinet, which is done up with chintz for the occasion. I don't think they can catch cold. There is a stove in the centre compartment besides. You can fancy I feel shy going to Berlin into a perfectly new society; and I have been so little out on the whole since the year 1 86 1. Marie Grancy'^^ goes with us. Berlin, January 29th. * "' * The journey went off very well, and we are so happy to be here. Vicky and Fritz are kind- ness itself, and Vicky so dear, so loving ! I feel it does me good, that there is a reflection of Papa's great mind in her. He loved her so much, and was so proud of her. The King is, as always, very kind, and so pleased to see us here. Louis is very happy to meet his old comrades again, and they equally so to see him ; and I am so glad that he can have this amusement at least, for he is so kind in not leaving me — and our life must be rather dull sometimes for a young man of spirit like him. Berlin, February ist. * * * Affie arrived at eiofht this morningf. I * One of the Princess' ladies in waiting. IN HER NEW HOME, 93 am sure the King will be so pleased at your having let him come no\V. He is so kind to me ; it touches me very much, for I have never done any thing to deserve it. Berlin, February 4th. % % % Y have not been sight-seeing anywhere, as it is too cold for that. We drive in a shut car- riage, and then walk in the Thiergarten. We spend the whole day together, which is a great enjoyment to me, and of an evening we go out together. It is so pleasant to have a sister to go out with, and all the people are so kind and civil to us. Sigismund '^ is the greatest darling I have ever seen — so wonderfully strong and advanced for his age — with such fine color, always laughing, and so lively he nearly jumps out of our arms. This house is very comfortable, and Vicky is sur- rounded with pictures of you and dear Papa — near her bed, on all her tables — and such endless souve- nirs of our childhood : it made me quite zvehmuthig [sad] to see all the things I had not seen for seven years, and since we lived together as children — souvenirs of Christmases and birthdays from you both, and from dear Grandmama, from Aunt Glou- cester, etc. It awakened a thousand old remem- brances of happy past times. Berlin, February 7th. * * * How much do I think of you now, the happy Silver Wedding that would have been, where you could have been surrounded by so many of us! Poor Mama, I do feel so deeply for you. Oh, may I be long, if not altogether, spared so awful a calamity! * Then the Crown Princess' youngest child. 94 PRINCESS ALICE. Morning', noon, and night do I thank the Almighty for our happiness, and pray that it may last. These lines are for the dear loth,* though they will reach you on the eve ; and they are to tell you from Louis and myself how tenderly we think of you on that day, and of darling Papa, who made that day what it was. It will be a day of great trial to you, I fear. May the Almighty give you strength and courage to bear it! I am sure the dear sisters and brothers who are at home will try to cheer you with their different loving ways — above all, little Beatrice, the youngest of us all. Louis goes to Schwerin to-morrow until Friday. They wanted us to go together, but one journey is enough at this time of the year. Berlin, February nth. * «• :i: \Yg have been sledging these two days ; it is very cold, and the rooms mostly very hot. When we go out of an evening, we are packed up from head to foot. My dear Louis returned from Schwerin at five this morning, pleased with his visit. He found the Castle fine and comfortable, and its inmates very happy. Berlin, February 14th. * "* * We leave next Saturday. I shall be so sorry to leave dear Vicky, for she is often so much alone. Fritz is really so excellent, it is a pleasure to look at his dear good face ; and he is worked so hard — no health can stand it in the lone run. Berlin, February 17th. * ■"■ ^' This will be my last letter from here, and I only regret leaving here on account of parting with dear Vicky and Fritz, whom we see so rarely, * The anniversary of the Queen's marriage. IN HER NEW HOME. 95 and usually but for a short time. I have passed such pleasant hours wirh dear Vicky : that is what I shall look back to with so much pleasure and satisfaction. Dar:\istadt, February 21st. I write once more from our dear little home, which I find very cold ; snow and ice everywhere still — it seems as if w^inter would never end. We accom- plished our journey very well. Poor Vicky will miss us very much, I fear, in the many hours when she is alone, and which we spent together. Writing does not make up for it. We fjive a laro-e masked ball in the Palace at -I • • Fastnacht [Shrove Tuesday], which is to-day week. It is the first thing we do for the society, and I hope it will go off well. I found so much to do since my return that I can write no more. BeforeclosingI must mention though, thatyesterday evening I heard " Elijah" beautifully given. How I thought of dear Papa ! Nearly every note brought back to mind observations he made about it. I thought I could see him, and hear his dear sweet voice turning round to me with quite watery eyes, saying, '' Es ist dock gar zu sch6?i" [''It is really quite too lovely."] Adored Papa! how he loved this fine music ; the harmony in it seems like the harmony of souls, and Mendelssohn's music is so good, fromm [pious] — I mean, it makes one better to hear it. In the second part, in an air of " Elijah" toward the end, I found the part from which those beautiful responses are taken which Cusins arranged, and which Papa liked so much. February 27th. * * * I can write but a very short letter to-day, having so much to do for our ball. I have made a 96 PEIN'CESS ALICE. sketch of my costume, which is the same I wore at BerHn at the masked iDall at Putbuses. Louis wears part of the Garter Costume. March 4th, * * * My parents-in-law leave the middle of this month for Schwerin. * ^' * My mother-in- law fears that Anna will be badly managed and treated quite after the old fashion, and she won't be able to help her, she fears. Anna is not very strong, and if she is starved and kept from the air, it will certainly do her harm. I have written to dear Tilla.* To think of home without her seems too sad, but I hope you will invite her sometimes. Every one liked her in the house, she was so gentle and so kind. I shall never forget what I owe her, and I ever loved her most dearly. But she has never been the same ao^ain since 1861. It gave her a dreadful shock ; she had such a venera- tion for darling Papa. I hope this year we can show you our house, though it will not be far enough advanced for you to live in. For another year, I hope, we could make you so comfortable. Darmstadt, March 6th. * * "■ I am reading at this moment a book by Herr von Arneth — the publication of letters from Maria Theresa to Marie Antoinette from 1770-80. I recommend it to you. The letter are short and in- teresting, and it would amuse you to take it up now and then, when you have a leisure moment. The advice the Empress gives her daughter is so good ; she was a very wise mother. I have read and studied a great deal about the human body ; about children — their treatment, etc. * Miss Hildyard, the Princes-.' former English governess. IN HER NEW HOME. 97 It interests me immensely. Besides, it is always useful to know such things, so that one is not per- fectly ignorant of the reasons why doctors wish one to do certain things, and why not. In any moment of illness, before there is time for a doctor to come, one can be able to help one's self a little. I know you don't like these things, and where one is surrounded by such as dear Sir James [Clark] and Dr. Jenner, it is perfectly unnecessary and pleasanter not to know a good deal. Instead of findino- it disirustinor. it only fills me with admiration to see how wonderlully we are made. Darmstadt, March nth. ■A * * Westerweller does not accompany us this time to England ; he may join us in June. A former playfellow of Louis, Ferdinand Rabenau, ac- companies us. Affie knows him and likes him. We think of starting on the 3d, and passing by Brussels to see dear Uncle Leopold. Uncle Louis is still at Nice, and does not return here, it seems, until the Emperor and Empress meet for April 24th — the Emperor's birthday. My mother-in-law is very grateful for your kind message. She seems very nervous about Anna. Victoria is teething, which makes her pale and poorly. Ella's vaccination did not take, and we have the small-pox here. March i8th. My poor children have been confined to the house with dreadful colds and coughs. Victoria looks the most pulled, though Ella's cough was much more violent. I am happy to say that they are really better to-day ; but we have snow every day, and that makes their recovery slower. Yesterday night part of a large seed manufactory 98 PJilNCESS ALICE. close by, near the artillery barracks, was burnt down. The flames were enormous, but the damage done was not crreat. My parents-in-law are in Berlin, and after to-mor- row they go to Schwerin. Last night we heard Cost fan tutte given to perfec- tion. The music is most charming, and I had never heard it before. April ist. " * "^ Since some days the snow is many feet deep ; one can get about in sledges, and Louis drove me in one with four horses this morning. All inter- course by carriage is impossible, and this is very in- convenient to the people in the country where their " Post " cannot drive. April 4th. I must begin by telling you how much pleasure your telegram has given me. It is like my own dear Mama to have her arms open for those who want her kind support ; and I can only repeat again, that with you, and under your care alone, should I like to leave my litde ones so long! To them, indeed, it will in every way be an advantage, and I shall be quite easy in leaving them there, where I know they will have every care which can be given ; and it would make us both so happy to feel that in this way we could give you some little pleasure. Westerweller and Becker both wish very much we may take this winter, D.V., for a journey. As long as we have fewer servants and this small house, it is easy to break up the whole establishment — later, this will be less possible. Louis has never been able to travel, and the advantage of seeing other parts of the world would be so great for him. Without me he would not do it; he says, alone he IN HER NEW HOME. 99 should not enjoy it. I urge this journey principally for his sake, and 1 hope you will support me in this. Since crur marriao"e we have seen nothing;;, and all who can try to enlarge their knowledge. From books alone it becomes tedious and less advan- tageous. Victoria is going to have a party of thirty children to-morrow in Prince Charles' rooms. The snow is thawine at leno-th, and the sun is much too hot. The sudden spring is not pleasant. We have been out riding, and this evening I shall accompany Louis to the Schnepfenstrich [woodcock-shooting'''], which in a fine evening, when the birds sing, is lovely. April 8ih. :)-. :;: * ^^ ^ shall be delighted to receive you in Kranichstein, and if you will send your suite all to Darmstadt we shall be able to arrange, though we have not one spare room anywhere, and I feel you will be rather squeezed. How I look forward to meeting you again, after a year of separation, I can't say ; and I am so glad that it will be under our roof that our joyful embrace will take place. As Uncle Louis is to have the Garter, may not Affie bring it to him without ceremony ? He would like it so much better if it can be so. On the 17th Louis goes to Oberhessen to shoot capercailzies, and he deposits me and the children at Lich on his way, where he will join us again for my birthday. Anna was safely delivered of a little girl this morning, and is doing well. April 15111. * :!: :i: \Y^ liave bccn very anxious about * This sport is practised in the evening twilight. lOO FJilNCESS ALICE. Anna * the last few days, for she has had fever since the 9th, and shiverlni^ still yesterday. We have a great deal to do this morning, so I can write but shortly. We have fine weather at length, and are out a great deal. Yesterday we took the Sacrament at nine, and numbers of people with us. The service lasted till past eleven, with a pause between. April 1 8th. This is really a dreadfully sad death in our family, and will be a blow to my dear parents-in-law, which will weigh them down for many a day. They who lived so retired, and to whom the family life was all — Anna, the pet — "das Prinzesschen," whom they gave up so unwillingly, and with whom they corres- ponded daily ! It will be a blank in their existence, which I can't bear to think of! Such tender lovinof parents! My poor Louis was dreadfully distressed, though he feared the worst all along since we knew that Anna had fever. He left with Grolmann, having passed a dreadful morning. All the old servants, tutors, friends, came crying to us. Since he is gone I have passed sad lonely hours ; and poor old Ame- lung comes f and sits in my room, sobbing that she should ever have lived to see this day. Yesterday morning I went to the Rosenhahe and picked flowers from Anna's garden, and wound a large wreath, which I have sent to Louis to place on her coffin. The three brothers feel it dreadfully — the first rent in the family circle is always hard to bear, and she so young, so good, so happy ! I hear the poor little baby is nice. * Prince Louis' sister, the Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin She died on the i6th of April, 1865. f Nurse of the Prince Louis and his brothers and sister. IN HER NEW HOME. 1 01 Yesterday night Anna was taken into the Schloss- kirche [Palace Cliapel] upon Louis' arrival, after a journey of twenty-seven hours. I hope he won't be ill after' all this Gemiithsbewegitng [strain upon his feelings], and fatigue always upsets him and makes him sick, and he feels all so deeply and warmly. It is so shocking. I can think of nothing else ; and I am very low and sad being so alone, and the warm weather makes one unwell. The poor Cesarewitch has passed a tolerable night. I fear he is so reduced he can't get through it. The Empress doats on this son, and he is so like her. The poor Emperor has left for Nice. April 2 1 St. Oh, it is sad, very sad! Life indeed is but a short journey, on which we have our duty to do, and in which joy and sorrow alternately prevail. Anna was very good, very unselfish, and a true Christian, with her gentle, humble spirit, and as such she was loved and admired. What rare people my parents- in-law and their children are, I can't tell you — such childlike faith, such pure unselfish love to each other; I really feel unworthy to belong to them, and they are dear to me beyond description. As I have shared their joys, so with all my heart do I share their sorrow, and fervently pray for them ! You will understand this, darling Mama. From you I have inherited an ardent and sympathizing spirit, and feel the pain of those I love as though it were my own. To-morrow I have wished that there should be in the Palace Chapel a funeral service at the same time as the funeral at Schwerin.and all the people here seemed pleased at my wish. Bender, who taught her, confirmed her, and who married her not a year ago in that very church, will perform the service. I02 PRINCESS ALICE. Poor Dagmar! what a journey for her, poor child! She begins her troubles early enough. April 24th. * * * Many thanks for your kind letter, and for all the kind wishes for my birthday. It will be sad and quiet ; but I hope my beloved Louis will arrive to-night, and be with me again — such cause for joy and thankfulness. When I have kim, all sorrow is turned into peace and happiness. Could I but know you still had darling Papa at your side, how light would my heart be ! Once when we have all fulfilled our allotted duties, and overcome that dark night, then, please God, we shall be together, never again to part ! The sympathy of all does my sorrowing family good, for it soothes so much ! I had a few lines so tender, so full of faith, from my dear mother-in-law to-day. Since Ella's birth I know to understand and love her most dearly. She suffered dreadfully, but no complaint passes her lips. She consoles her hus- band, her son-in-law, and this, with prayer, enables her to bear that which has almost broken her heart. April 25 th. * * * Dear Louis returned last night well, and bringing good accounts of his parents. They re- main there still a little longer, to arrange Anna's things. At Frankfort, at eleven last night, we met ; it was so warm. The poor Cesarewitch is gone ! The Emperor and Empress are coming here in ten days ; what sad meetings. How warm it has been daily since a fortnight, I can't tell you ! We sit all day in the garden, take tea there, drawing-lessons, etc. I.V HER NEW HOME. IO3 April 29th. I thank you scinuch for your kind sympathizing letter. ,A11 my family are so grateful for all the kindness and sympathy you have shown them on this sad occasion. To-day Uncle Louis arrives ; on Monday the Emperor and Empress, and children. What a sad meeting ! They go to Jugenheim direct, where last year they were so happy all together. I hear the Empress is worn out, mind and body ; and she in- sists, instead of finishinof her cure, on croinof in a fortniorht to St. Petersburof to meet the remains of her child, and to do him the last honors. Louis fears that it will be more than her feeble frame can endure. In the Greek Church, too, the night Masses are long and exhausting, and she is sure to wish to do all. We spent my birthday as every other day, and the weather was heavenly. I am painting in oil now, and that interests me much. I find it much easier than water-colors. I hope Affie will come to pay his respects to the Russians. If you send them a kind message through him, it would please them much. May 2d. * * ^' How well I understand your compas- sion being alike for mourners in all positions of life. It is but right and natural, and I can't imagine one's feeling otherwise. May 6th. To-morrow morning my poor parents-in-law ar- rive. What a meeting, and what a return ! My father-in-law and the Empress * are each other's favorites, and understand each other so perfectly. * She was the only sister of Prince Charles of Hesse. 104 PH IN CESS ALICE. It will be a consolation to both to pour their hearts out to each other, and share each other's sorrow. My dear father-in-law wrote to Aunt Marie : " Al- though my heart is sorely depressed, yet it is even more filled with gratitude than with sorrow, that the dear God has given us two such dear children, though but for a brief space." He is so touching in his grief. May 8th. I find my dear parents-in-law pretty well, but poor Mama so terribly tired. She was dread- lully overcome in coming home, and at the several meetings. He looks much older, as, indeed, does also the poor Emperor, who parted yesterday to go to St. Petersburg. Dear Aunt Marie seems very weak, and they both, together with my parents, make such a sad picture to look at. But they all like to speak of those they have lost. My parents- in-law and we go this week to Uncle Louis, to See- heim for three weeks. Seeheim, May 12th. You can't think what real pleasure your pretty locket gave my mother-in-law. She was deeply touched by the kind thought and the considerate attention of the gift — with what was engraved on it. She was so very much pleased with it, and put it on the moment she received it. The photograph is to be put in. To-day, Anna's wedding-day, it arrived. We have been here since yesterday afternoon — my parents-in-law and Uncle Louis. The suite are on leave of absence, so we are quite enfamille. Yesterday, Serge's birthday, we went with Uncle and Aunt to the Greek Mass, which lasted more than an hour. We dine daily at the Heiligenberg. This morning also we were there with our parents and IN HER NEW HOME. I05 children ; and Aunt Marie [the Empress of Russia] kept Ella half an hour on her lap, playing with her, which ,the little one enjoyed very much, as she is particularly sociable and amiable. Victoria romped with her cousins — Aunt Marie's two, and Uncle Alexander's four. Seeheim, May 15th. * * * To-day Michael and Cecile arrive, and on Tuesday the Emperor and Empress recommence their journey homeward. The return will be for both most trying. Aunt Marie spoke with me about her sons, their education, etc., very long last night. Her whole life she has studied and lived for Nike [the late Cesarewitch], that he might become that which was necessary for his future ; and she was much more with him, and they were both much more intimate together, than she is with her other children. Affie came here on Saturday, and I am so glad to have him and hear some news of you. At this moment he and William are in the room shoot- ing at a target out of the window, which makes no little noise. May 20th. * * * -^^ mean to remain here in the Berg- strasse with our parents ; is seems to console them ; but my father-in-law makes me very anxious, and is so nervous. Poor Mama ! so soft, so tired, so unlike herself, celafait pitie. On the fifth the Grand Duke is cfoinof to receive the Garter. You shall have an account of all. Affie is here, and to-day dear Arthur comes for a few hours. I shall be so pleased to see him again. Seeheim, May 21st. -jf -x- -x- Yesterday the Emperor and Empress and children left. So sorry to see them go ! God I06 PRINCESS ALICE. knows when we shall all meet here aeain. We have been so much together and so intimately, that I have grown very fond of them, and am very sad at the thought of the long and uncertain separation. Dear little Arthur was here, looking very well. The wooded hills here are so nice to ride about on, and the country is very beautiful. May 31st. I read serious books a great deal, and of a Sun- day together we read out of Robertson's sermons. In the second series there is one, " The Irreparable Past " for young people, so cheering, so encourag- ing, so useful. Louis read it to me on his return from Schwerin after poor Anna's death. A short life indeed, and it makes one feel the uncertainty of life, and the necessity of labor, self-denial, charity, and all those virtues which we ou^ht to strive after. Oh, that I may die, having done my work and not sinned with Uiiterlassung des Gotten [omission to do what is good], the fault into which it is easiest to fall. Our life being so quiet gives one much time for earnest thought, and I own it is discouraging to find how much one fails — how small the step of improve- ment is. I suffer still so much, and so often, from rheuma- tism. I am takinof warm soda-baths in the mornino- for it, and am rubbed afterward with towels which have been dipped in cold water and then wrung out. It is not very pleasant. June 4th, * * * The weather is very beautiful, and we had tea yesterday at Schonberg, the castle of young Count Erbach, whom Louis presented to you at Windsor. Could you tell us for certain when you IX HER NEW HOME. 10/ intend going to Coburg, and when we are expected there, as we are^oing to the sea to bathe for Vic- toria and myself, and we would arrange our time ac- cordingly ? I require some sea air after the great heat, and after baby's weaning ; also before Scotland it would be good, for I have so much rheumatism. Some sea water will strengthen me. June yth, * * * You know how very Scotch we both are. Louis is devotedly attached to Scotland and his Scotch friends. Do tell them so always. But now I must tell you of yesterday. In the morning Affie, we, and our suite, drove into town for the in- vestiture. At half past three I drove with my ladies, a Kammerherr [Chamberlain], Becker, etc., to the Schloss, where Uncle Louis received us in shorts ! Then Affie and Louis in their whole Garter dress arrived in a carriage with six horses and an escort. Uncle Louis, before the throne, and the family, Court, corps diplomatique, etc., received them. Affie read in English the address, to which Uncle Louis answered in German ; then Affie buckled on the Garter ; then Louis helped him to put on ribbon, cloak, etc., and fastened the sword on him, which was no easy task ; but they acquitted themselves to perfection, and went out through the long Kaiser- saal backward, bowing. There was a large dinner afterward, at which your health was proposed by Uncle Louis, and in return Affie gave his. You have made a happy man, and he feels the honor — as he said to me in Enoflish — " utmostly " ; and he wishes me to repeat once more how grateful he is to you. ''' '"'' * Affie did not return here last night ; he slept at Darmstadt, and left this morning for Amorbach. To- I08 PRINCESS ALICE. day Uncle Ernest is coming to us, but only for one night. As we have again to go into town to fetch him, and it is very warm, I must close. Seeheim, June 15th. * * * How it will amuse and please us to show the good excellent Scotchman our home. It is a pleasure to hear of such devotion and attention to you as Brown's is, and indeed you are so kind to him, that his whole happiness must consist in serv- ing so good a mistress. I think you will be pleased to hear of a most kind and touching tribute which the Frauen [women] of Darmstadt have paid me. Two hundred and fifty have subscribed to have a splendid picture painted for me, by P. Weber, of Loch Katrine. I am to see it on Sunday. It is very much admired, and they sent the painter to Scotland to do it, thinking that something from my own country would please me most. Is it not kind of them ? It has given me so much pleasure — but of all things the feeling which has prompted them to do it, as it shows me that, though I have been here so short a time, they have become attached to me, as I am with all my heart to my new home and country. Now about myself. I have weaned Ella, last Sat- urday, and can say that my health has never been so good, nor have I been so strong or looked so fresh and healthy as I do now. When Uncle Ernest saw me he said I looked again as I did as a girl, only rather fatter. Ella crawls now, and is very strong ; she has her first two teeth. Victoria is very wild, and speaks more German than English. I think her rather small, but other people say she is not. She goes out walking with her Papa before breakfast quite IN HER NEW HOME. IO9 alone, with her hands in her pockets, and amuses him very much. ^ June 19th. Many thanks for your last letter from dear Balmo- ral. The parting from that lovely place must always be sad, and there is something- in mountains which attaches one so much to that scenery. Yesterday was a very trying day for my poor mother-in-law (her birth-day), and she was very low, but, as all along, so resigned, so touching in the beautiful way she bears her grief; so unselfish with it, never wishing to make others sad, or to be less interested in their concerns than formerly. Dear Mary Cambridge has been here, and we en- joyed her visit so much. We took her back to Frankfort to-day, where we gave her and Aunt Cambridge a luncheon in Uncle Louis' Palais. June 2ist. It is warm, but very windy and dusty here ; we were nearly blinded out riding yesterday evening. I am reading that most interesting History of Eng- land by Pauli, in German, which commences with the Congress of Vienna in i8i5, and is, I believe, very detailed and correct. It gives a sketch also of the rei^n of Georire III., and is so well written one can scarcely lay the book down. It is part of a work written by the best German professors on Eng- land, Russia, Italy, France, Spain, and Austria in those years, and I am reading them one after another. They are thick books, and eight volumes. Kranichstein, July 2d. We both thank you for your kind wishes for our wedding-day. It was rainy and not fine, but we spent it very happily indoors — Affie and Mary with no PRINCESS ALICE. US. Dr. Weber now wishes (as we should have to go from Blankenberghe back to Coburg, and then again all the journey back), that I should not bathe at all this year, as all the good would be undone by the hurried journey, and the excitement of the sea air might not be good for Victoria. We are all to go instead for four weeks to Switzerland, beginning with Rigi Kaltbad, and this we greatly prefer. We go into the mountains at once for the bracing air. On Saturday until Tuesday we go to Baden for the christening of the baby. We both are god-parents. Kranichstein, July loth. * * * Ella already says, since some time, " Papa" and " Mama," and calls herself, and crawls, and is very forward and merry — such a contrast to Victoria, who is so pale and fair, and now thin, for Ella's eyes are so dark blue, and her hair of such a rich brown, that you would never take the little things for sisters. They are very fond of each other, and so dear together, that they give us much pleas- ure. I would not change them for boys, if I could ; this little pair of sisters is so nice, and they can be such friends to each other. I hope you will be comfortable here, but we are much annoyed not to be able to be there to receive you. None of the family will be here, save perhaps my mother-in-law with poor Fritz Schwerin, who is expected then. We mean to start on the 2 5th, and we go as pri- vate people, on account of the expense. We are only going to Oberland, and sha'n't go very far about. Kranichstein, July 17th, * * * It was 95° in the shade yesterday at eight in the morning, and I think the heat increases. IN HER NEW HOME. Ill Dr. Lyon Playfair lunched with us yesterday ; he is so charminof. To-morrow morninof at five we eo to Bonn for the day, and shall be there before ten. The heat is too great to go at any other time. We start next Tuesday evening, and on Wednesday shall be on the Ri^i. This morninof at six o'clock we rode to the exer- cising — I on a new horse, for two hours and a half over sand without any shade. Mary [Duchess of Teck] has been so kind as to give us a boat, which we expect shortly. It is to be christened " Mary Adelaide," after her. July 24th. Many thanks for your letter, and for the sad ac- count of Victoria Brant's'"' death. It is quite shock- ing, and she was my dearest friend of those contem- poraries, and the one I saw the most of. " In the midst of life we are in death " ; and the uncertainty of all earthly things makes life a real earnest, and no dream. Our whole life should be a preparation and expectation for eternity. Merry as she was, she was yet very serious and thoughtful ; but what a loss she will be to her poor parents and husband! I have made all arrangements for your comfort here. I own I do not like your coming here when we and the whole family are away — it looks so odd! I forgot to tell you, in answer to your question about Ella's name, that she of course must be called " Elizabeth," entre nous only " Ella," for she bears my dear mama-in-law's name. RiGi Kaltbad, August ist. I am enchanted, delighted with this magnificent * Daughter of M. Van de Weyer, the Belgian Minister Plenipotentiary in England. She had been thrown out from her carriage, and died from the effect of the injuries received. 112 PRINCESS ALICE. scenery. Oh, how you would admire it! When I am sketching, I keep telling Louis how much more like you would make the things ; one can always recognize the places when you draw them. We left Darmstadt at eight Wednesday morning, the 26th, slept at Basel that night, and we got there early enough to see the fine church in a thunder storm. The next day we only went to Lucerne, as the weather was not fine enough to ascend the Rigi. It was a lovely afternoon, and the lake of a marvel- lous green color. The Pilatus was quite clear for a few hours. The next morning we two, the children, Mof- fat, Harriet the nursery-maid, Logoz and wife, Jager, and Beck, our whole party, started in a very crowded steamer for Waggis. Splendid weather, though cloudy. We then, on horses and in chairs carried by three or six men, made our ascent along a wind- ing, narrow, steep path, below rocks, past ravines, where little chalets are situated, and all over the green pasture cows and goats feeding with bells round their necks. Westerweller was here when we arrived ; he acts courier, and when we make long expeditions remains with the children. This is a very roomy hotel, crammed full of people, among them some odd Austrian ladies whom we see below walk- ing on the terrace — very smart, and smoking. We two have been on mules with a guide — such a funny man, who was a soldier at Naples, and was at the siege of Gaeta — on all the expeditions hereabout. To-morrow we leave, and go till Monday to Buochs, on the other side of the lake ; then to En- gelberg, where Uncle Adalbert and his wife will be. The children are well ; Victoria very troublesome, but Ella good and amiable as ever. As I am writing at the window, the clouds cover the lake and the IN HER NE W HOME. 1 1 3 lower mountains, and I can only see the quite high ones with glaciers, which are of such a splendid shape. The color of the Scotch mountains is, I think, finer ; but here they are, first of all, so enormously high, and then such fine shapes, and the mountains are studded with trees and rocks down below, and of a green color. The air is very light and cold, but the sun intense. We are going off for the day again on our mules, so I must close. Of course many funny incidents take place, which I reserve to tell you when we meet. I do hope the heat will be over for your journey, and that it will be fine when you are at our dear Kranichstein. Marie Grancy will be there to receive you, and do any thing which is required. Engelberg, Hotel Titlis, August 8th. These lines I send by Becker, and hope you will receive them at Kranichstein. * -J^- * j hope you found all you wanted in the rooms, and that the meals were as you like them. I ordered all, and wrote all down before leaving, as I know what you like. We were for some days at Buochs, a very pretty village ; and we lived in three detachments in differ- ent common Swiss houses, very comfortable on the whole, but not smelling very nice, so that I could scarcely eat while we were there. Yesterday morning, in a very funny two-seated carriage with one horse, we left, the children and servants followinnf in a bicrcrer carriaije. A nearly four hours' drive through the most beautiful scenery, up a narrow valley through which the Aa runs, brought us here. The last two hours are a steep ascent on the side of a precipice ; beautiful vegeta- 114 PRINCESS ALICE. tioii through the wood all the way upward ; view on the high mountains with snow and glaciers close by. On coming to the top there is a narrow and lovely green valley studded with peasants' cottages, and in the centre a Benedictine Abbey, near which our hotel is situated. The valley is of very green grass ; the tops of the mountains quite rocky, with snow. Lower down, and skirting the valley, which is quite shut in by the hills, fine trees ; several very high waterfalls, in the style of the Glassalt (near Balmo- ral), only much higher. This Alpine valley is said to give the most perfect idea of a Swiss valley up in the mountains. One can ascend the Titlis ; but it is said to be dangerous, so we sha'n't attempt it. We are very careful, and Louis won't undertake any thing risky. The scenery seen from the carriage merely is so splendid that one may well be content with that. Unfortunately, to-day it pours, and it is very cold. The children are very well. The jour- ney has really done Victoria good, and she begins to have an appetite, which with her is a very rare thing. The next place we go to is Meyringen. We mean to ride there over the Joch Pass, but the children must go back the same way to get round, as there is no other way out of this valley. We will leave them then with Westerweller, and go to the Grin- delwald, Interlaken, etc. ; and then return home by the 29th probably. The children are living in a cottaije here also. Pension Tracht bei Br) * * * Our ride from Engelberg over the Joch Pass to Meyringen was quite beautiful ; but a worse way than any we have ever been out on in Scotland. We were eleven hours on the road, and the sun Belle Vue, ) RiENZ, August 14th. j IN HER NEW HOME. II5 was very hot, and the walking on these steep bad paths made one still hotter ; but we enjoyed it very much, and I never saw any thing" grander or more maofnihcent. * * ■"" I have made little scribbles on the way. * * * To-day we two with two horses were to have walked and ridden to the Grindelwald, over the Rosenlaui glacier, and to have gone on the next day to Interlaken, but the weather is so bad that it is impossible, and, not being satisfied with the prices, etc., at the hotel of Mey- ringen, we came on here, an hour's drive, near to the beautiful falls of the Giessbach, which we saw on Sun- day. * * * The weather will determine whether we can make an expediton to-morrow. We shall be home on Friday by Thun and Basel, where we sleep. What day are we to be at Coburg, and for how long exactly ? I believe only two or three days. The white heather is from above Eneelbere, near Brienz. Pension Belle Vue, August 15th, I have this instant received your dear letter from Kranichstein, and, though only just returned from an expedition to the Rosenlaui glacier, I sit down at once to thank you with all my heart for such dear lines. How glad I am all was comfortable, and that you were pleased with your day in our nice Kranich- stein ! I am glad you missed us a little. ''' '''' * But I must tell you of to-day. We drove to Reich- enbach, close to the falls, took a guide and horses, and in two hours by a steep stony path got to Rosenlaui. The view on the Wetterhorn, covered with snow, and on the Wellborn, which is a rugged rock on the other side of it, the white sparkling glacier, is quite beautiful. The shapes and immense Il6 PRINCESS ALICE. height of the mountains are so imposing. I look, admire, wonder ; one can't find words to express what one feels. How you would admire the scenery ! Papa was so fond of it all. Kranichstein, August 21st. These will be my last lines until we meet. We re- turned here well, having unfortunately, though, much rain from Interlaken to Basel. At Thun we were in the same hotel as Blanche and Mademoiselle Bernard, and to-morrow we expect Uncle Nemours, Marguerite, and AleuQon, whom we asked to dinner on their way to Frankfort. I am mostly at the Rosenhohe with my mama-in-law, as she is quite alone. I was in town with her, and read to her this morninof ; she is ever so dear and kind. I do love her so much. Ever since Ella's birth we have been drawn so closely to each other, and I admire her also now that I know and understand her. There is so much beneath, so much Gemiith., tenderness, and delicacy of feeling. It is indeed a blessing to have such people as they are for parents-in-law. September ist. Uncle George was here yesterday. Vicky remains with us till the 5th, and gives me so much pleasure to be able to repay her for her hospitality this winter. We were at the christenmg of Becker's baby, which went off so well. In the morning we had to go through High Mass for the inauguration of the Grand Duchess' monument in the Catholic church. Poor papa-in-law, who went to bathe for his head- ache, has had such a return of his cough that he is coming back here on Monday. I hope they will go to Switzerland later. IN HER NE IV HOME. 1 1 / Kranichstein, September Sth. * * * AftSr having missed the train they in- tended to come by, Bertie and Alix arrived at three o'clock. They dined with us. Louis then took him to the theatre, and I drove her about. My poor father-in-law's throat is very bad, and gives him much pain. I am really very anxious about him. We leave to-morrow afternoon at four, and shall spend the following day at Ostend, embarking in the evening. Till the end of the week we intend stop- ping in town, and if Bertie and Alix remain longer, we shall leave by the limited mail (for Balmoral). Inverness, October Sth. This is a very fine town, and the country is very beautiful. We took a walk this morning, and shall drive this afternoon. It was thoucfht better not to go to a kirk, as the people seemed to look out for us. Ao;-ain a thousand thanks for havinof arranoed this nice journey for us, which we enjoy so much. I thought so much of you and dear Papa yesterday during our ride."^" Sandringkam, November i6th. * * * I am pleased that the children are well under your roof. I know they have all they can want. Bertie had such bad toothache yesterday ; Louis also a little ; the cold air must be the cause, for it is so sharp here. Alix and I practice together for an hour of an evening. ''' * '"' Alix drove me down to the sea the other day, and a most alarming drive it was, for the horses pulled, and to our astonishment the coachman suddenly alighted between us, with his * See " Leaves from a Journal," Gran town, i36o. I 1 8 PRINCESS ALICE. feet in the air, from the back seat, and caught hold of the reins — it was too funny. I hope to be near you again on Saturday. CoBLENZ, November 25th. * ^^ * Having just a quarter of an hour to myself before leaving this, I hasten to write to you a few lines to tell you that we have travelled quite well so far. May will have told you about our pas- sage. I have been sick ever since, which is dread- ful. Henry and William joined us at Bonn, and came here with us. The Queen was most kind. We spent the even- ing most pleasantly en famille with her, and whilst we dined alone together she had to go to a town ball. Darmstadt, November 28th. * " '-' I find my father-in-law looking better, I am happy to say, though far from strong ; and alas ! one of his lungs is affected. Though, with care, one can guard him from evil consequences, still of course, it is an anxious thing. All the family are very grateful for your kind messages, and send their respects to you. * " ^ The children are very well, and Vic- toria said to my mother, " Meine Grossmama, die Koniginn, has got a little vatch with a birdie," and she is always speaking of all at Windsor, but principally of the things in your room. I am so glad that you are pleased with the children's picture. I admire it so much. It is warm and damp here. * * * j have a great deal to do. "" ^' * We have been over the new house yesterday, and alas ! found many things not quite what they were intended to be. * * * IN HER NE W HOME. 1 1 9 Darmstadt, December 5th. Many thanks for your letter received yesterday, •with tlije. account of Lenchen's Verlobiing [betrothal]. I am so glad she is happy, and I hope every bless- ing will rest on them both that one can possibly desire. I had a letter from Marie Brabant tvvo days ago, where she says dear Uncle's [King Leopold's] state is hopeless ; but yesterday she telegraphed that he was rather better. What a loss it would be if he were to be taken from us, for his very name and ex- istence, though he takes no active part in politics, are of weight and value. Yesterday I was painting in oils, and I copied my sketch of the Sluggan, and, if it be in any way at all presentable and fit to give, I will send it to you. I hope it won't be very Chinese, for our sketches had a certain likeness to works of art of that country. Louis is very busy here. He has bec^un his military duties ; he has the command and V^crwalbing [ad- ministration] of the Cavalry Brigade. To-day he has to 2:0 to the Chamber, and he is cfoinsf to attend the different offices — home department, finances, justice, etc., — so as to get a knowledge of the routine of business. * ''' * Louis of Portucfal and family passed through here yesterday, and went to Frankfort. I have inquired if they are there still, and it they are we shall try to see them. I am so curious to see Marie Pia. '•' '=' '^ All our Hofstaat [Court circle] lay their good wishes for Lenchen's engagement at your feet. Darmstadt, December 8th. We are so grieved and distressed at dear Uncle Leopold's alarming state, and have given up all hope, the accounts are so bad. Oh, were there but a chance I20 FJiliVCESS ALICE. for you, or for any of us who love him so dearly, to be near him durinof his last hours ! December nth. Many thanks for your letter. Alas, alas ! beloved Uncle Leopold is no more ! How much for you, for us, for all, goes with him to the grave ! One tie more of those dear old times is rent ! I do feel for you so much, for dear Uncle was in- deed a father to you. Now you are head of all the family — it seems incredible, and that dear Papa should not be by your side. The regret for dear Uncle Leopold is universal — he stood so high in the eyes of all parties ; his life was a history in itself — and now that book is closed. Oh, it is so sad, and he is such a loss ! I am almost glad this sorrow has fallen into those days already so hallowed by melancholy and precious recollections. How I recollect every hour, every minute of those days. In thinking of them one feels over again the hope, the anxiety, and lastly the despair and grief of that irretrievable loss. The Almighty stood by you and us, and enabled us to bear it, for I always wonder that we lived through that awful time. The future world seems so like a real home, for there are so many dear ones to meet again. There is something peculiarly sad in the death of the last one of a large family — to feel that none is left to tell of each other, and of their earlier life, Vv^hich the younger ones could know only through their Hps. December i5tb. Many thanks for your letter. I was so anxious to hear something of our beloved Uncle's end ; it seems to have been most peaceful. There will be many Princes at Brussels, I believe. IN HER NEW HOME. 121 How much I thought of you and of dear Papa on the 14th! Dear*-Louis leaves me this afternoon. He will reach Brussels at five to-morrow mornino^, and remain over the Sunday. The accession of the new Kinof and the honors that have at once to be paid are so painful, following- so closely on the death ot one we have loved and known in that position. As the French say : " Le Roi est mo7^i. Vive le Rot ! " December 20th. * * * I was sitting- up for Louis till half-past eleven with Countess Bliicher — who leaves to-day, and has spent a few days with me — when he, and to my astonishment Bertie also, came into the room. The next day, alas ! he had to leave again at four ; but still, short as his stay was, it was a token of his constant love for me, and it touched me very much, for I ever loved him so dearly. Every thing went off well at Brussels as you will have heard. The more I realize that we shall never see beloved Uncle Leopold again, the sadder I grow. He had, apart from all his excellent qualities, such a charm as I believe we shall seldom find again. The dear Countess is weli. We made the dining- room into a bedroom for h-^r, and we dined down- stairs. I was so afraid of her getting cold, if she lived out of the house. Darmstadt, December 241I1. * * * How I wish beloved Uncle were brought to Windsor to rest there as he had wished ! I won- dered so much that every thing had taken place at Laeken, knowing that dear Uncle had wished it otherwise. Uncle Louis wishes me to thank you once more \ 122 PRINCESS ALICE. for the Christmas eatables, and my mother-in-law likewise for the lovely little frame and photograph. They are both much touched by this kind attention on your part. Christmas Day. -» * * To me Christmas is always sad now, and for Louis and his family it was so likewise this year ; my parents-in-law felt it very much. We went to the Military Church at eight this morning. It is the service we like best ; but it was bitterly cold, every thing snow white. I hope my little picture, though very imperfect, found favor in your eyes. It gave me such pleasure doing it for you, thinking of you and our expedition the whole time I was doing it. December 30th. This is my last letter this year. In many ways a happy one has it been, though it has deprived us of many dear and near ones. Each year brings us nearer to the Wicdcrsehcii [reunion with the dead], though it is sad to think how one's glass is running out, and how little good goes with it compared to the numberless blessings we receive. Time goes in- credibly fast. Every earnest and tender wish from us both is yours, dear Mama, for this coming year with its ex- pected events. May God's blessing rest on this new union which is to be formed in our family, and may dear Lenchen be as happy as all those who loved her can wish ! I am sorry to think that I shall propably not see her again until she is married ; but I am glad for her sake that the Brautstajid [the be- trothal period] is not/to be long. I send you a locket with Ella's miniature, which I hope will please you', AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1S66-1872. " Life is meant for work, and not for pleasure." {August 29, 1S66.) 1866. THIS year, which brought such important chang-es to the political life of Germany, was also in many ways full of sorrow and trouble to the Princess, and the hard and painful struggle through which Germany passed affected her very nearly. During the early part of the year, the new palace was completed, and in it the Princess had the satis- faction of seeing her wishes realized, and of feeling both comfortable and " at home." She was also able during this new year to extend the field of her practical usefulness. Princess Alice attended some very interesting lectures on the necessity of providing special asylums for poor idiots, delivered by a very clever and enter- prising " orthodox " clergyman from the Odenwald. She took up the idea most warmly, and determined to found such an institution herself, but in doing this found herself face to face with very serious difficul- ties. The lecturer and those who sided with him 123 124 FI^IMCESS ALICE. wished that any institution of this kind should bear a strictly religious stamp. The Princess did not agree in this view. She wished to separate the religious from the practical part of the work. She wished people to feel, that they were bound to help to alleviate sickness and suffering (in whatever form) out of mere love to their fellow-creatures, and not only as the fulfilment of a religious duty. While the Princess always acknowledged the value of re- ligious motives in carrying out works of charity, she felt strongly, in this particular case, that the treat- ment of idiots should be left to the medical pro- fession, without any foreign interference. A committee was formed of persons who shared the Princess' views, and who were commissioned by her to take the necessary steps for carrying out her plans. By far the most difficult part of the work fell to her own share — namely, that of finding the neces- sary funds. To obtain these she organized a Bazaar in her new palace. This was a totally novel pro- ceeding in Germany, and well calculated to attract a large number of visitors. The Bazaar was opened on the 6th of April, and lasted four days. The Princess and Prince Louis and her brother, Prince Alfred, took an active part in it. The result sur- passed utmost expectations, a success mainly due to her own personal efforts, and to the charm which she exercised over all. At the close of the Bazaar she was not only able to announce that she had realized the sum of 1 6,000 florins, but that she had also gained AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 25 the conviction that the whole country supported her in her undertaking. In spite of the success of this Bazaar, the Princess was in later years opposed to a repetition of such an expedient, as she felt — what many do — that people often come on such occasions for their own personal amusement rather than to aid the charity. The war of 1866, which was the consequence of the unfortunate conflict about the Duchies of Schles- wig-Holstein, was viewed by the Princess with feel- ings in which personal interests and attachments conflicted with political convictions. She was so truly German that she felt most keenly the struggle between Germans and Germans, or as she herself says in one of her letters, " brother against brother." At times she could not help being downcast, be- cause she saw how much her husband and her hus- band's country suffered from it, and because she foresaw how disastrous to South Germany the results of such a war must be. Prince Louis himself was soon obliged to assume his command in the field. The Princess gave birth to a third daughter on the I ith of July, during the most anxious days of that trying time. Prince Louis had happened to be home on leave for a few days when the event took place ; but he was obliged to leave the Princess on the 14th of July, and to go at once into action at Aschaffen- burg. As the South-German troops had to retreat, all communication with his home for some time was cut off. 126 PRINCESS ALICE. On the 31st of July the Prussians under General von Goben entered Darmstadt. Prince Louis' pa- rents, who were the only relations remaining in Darmstadt, were daily with the Princess. On the 8th of August, whilst on her way home from visiting her parents-in-law, the Princess unexpectedly met the Prince in the street. He had obtained leave of absence during a short armistice. The joy of this meeting can easily be pictured! The Prince and Princess together visited the wounded ; and on the loth of August the Prince was appointed by the Grand Duke to the command of the Hessian divi- sion then in the field. By the Grand Duke's wish the Prince went for two days to Berlin, and then joined the troops in Rhenish Hesse. He took up his quarters in the " Gclbe Hatis" at Nierstein-Op- penheim, and the Princess courageously shared them with him — in spite of the cholera then raging there. On the 1 2th of September — Prince Louis' birthday — the litde Princess was christened at Darmstadt by the military chaplain ; she received the names Irene (Peace) Louise Marie Anna. The same day peace was ratified at Berlin — that peace for which the brave mother of the child had so ardendy longed. The Cavalry Brigade which the Prince had com- manded stood sponsor to the child. It was only on the 20th of September that the Prince and Princess with the Hessian division made their public entry into Darmstadt. AT HOME AND AT WORK. 12/ » January 2d. I am at the head of a committee of ladies out of the different classes of society to make a large ba- zaar, in which all the country is to take part, for the Idiot Asylum. It is very difficult — all the more as I have never had any thing to do with such things in my life. * * * j ^y^nted for the first public thing I undertake, to take in all principles, and my mother-in-law has given her name to it. I have chosen the committee out of different sets — half adelig [people of rank] half biirgerUdi [of the citi- zen class], and all these ladies, half of whom I did not know before, come and sit in my small room and discuss — and, as yet, do not disagree. January 6ih. * * * The people here are so much pleased that my Louis takes such active part in all his duties — military and civil, for he attends the different offices, and as General, I hear, he keeps great order where there was until now disorder and great abuse of power. Of course, I see him much less, and some days scarcely at all. On the 14th we go to Gotha for about a fortnight, without the children. Gotha, January 19th. Dear Uncle and Aunt are well, and we are very happy here, for they are always kindness itself to us. Uncle looks very well, but he grows very stout, I think. We saw the Brant von Messina [Schiller's] so well given two nights ago. I thought so much of dear Papa, who admired it greatly ; and Uncle Er *^old me he had it given for you, when you firsi „ame here. Gotha, January 22d, * * * Two nights ago Uncle, Louis, and I, 128 PRIA'CESS ALICE. with a very clever old actress, read a piece together. Louis resisted at first, but it went very well. You can't imatrine how mild it is. 1 have the windows always open. Gustav Freitag is here. I am always glad to see him. He is a good friend to Uncle, and he is so honest and straightforward. GoTHA, January 26th, I shall be very sorry to go away from here— the whole atmosphere does one good. Dear Uncle is so amusing ; he speaks of interesting things, and has interesting people. Our Quaker acquaintances have sent me a great deal for the bazaar, and an old gentleman who heard of it, ico/. ! I could not believe my eyes. They are always so generous : and, hearing of my undertak- ing a work of this sort, they sent me this spon- taneously. Is it not kind ? Darmstadt, February ist. It is spring weather here altogether — quite warm when one comes out of the house. It is so un- natural. The children enjoy it, and are out a great deal, looking so well and strong : I wish you could see them. The little one is growing up to her sister very fast, and actually wears the frocks Vic- toria wore last year. I wish you could hear all the extraordinary things Victoria says. Ella is civil to all strangers — excepting to my mother-in-law, or to old ladies. It is too tiresome. There is a laro-e ball given by the officers at their Casino to-night, to which we must go. It will be crowded and hot. Our house gets on tolerably. The housek" --^sr, a Berlinerinn, comes on the 20th, and we ai\v|'.old that we can go into the house next month. I can't help doubting it, and I regret leaving this nice little AT HOME AND AT IVORK. 1 29 house, where our first happy years have been spent. I am so glad that you have at least been in the new house, so that I can always think that you are no stranger to it, which makes me like it much better. February loth. * * * I am happy to think you are quiet at Osborne after all you had to go through. The emotion and all other feelings recalled by such an event must have been very powerful and have tried you much.* It was noble of you, my darling Mama, and the great effort will bring compensation. Think of the pride and pleasure it would have given darling Papa — the brave example to others not to shrink from their duty ; and it has shown that you felt the intense sympathy v/hich the English people evinced, and still evince, in your great misfortune. How to-day recalls those bright and happy former years ! There is no cloud without a silver lining, and the linincr to the black cloud which overshadows your existence is the bright recollection of the past blending into the bright hope of a happy future ; a small part of it also is the intense love of your chil- dren and nation, which casts a light around you which many live to enjoy and admire, and which few — if any — possess like you. I wish I could have sent a fine nosegay of orange blossoms for to-day, but they could not have arrived fresh so I gave it up. Louis sends his tenderest love, and wishes me to say how much his thoughts with mine are to-day constantly with you. He is very industrious, and has a great deal to do now, and, I hear, does all very well. * The opening of Parliament by the Queen for the first time after the death of the Prince Consort. 130 PRINCESS ALICE. Darmstadt, February istli. How dear of you to have written to me on the loth — a day of such recollections ! That last happy wedding-day at Buckingham Palace, how well I remember it, and all the previous ones at Windsor, when we all stood before your door, waiting for you and dear Papa to come out. You both looked so young, bright, and handsome. As I grew older, it made me so proud to have two such dear parents ! And that my children should never know you both toofether — that will remain a sorrow to me as lonsf as I live. Darmstadt, March loth. * * * Your idea of Friedrichroda for us was so good, but alas ! now even that will be impracti- cable, on account of money. Louis has had to take up money again at Coutt's to pay for the house, and the house is surety. We must live so economically — not going any- where, or seeing many people, so as to be able to spare as much a year as we can. England cost us a great deal, as the visit was short last time. We have sold four carriage horses, and have only six to drive with now, two of which the ladies constantly want for theatre, visits, etc. ; so we are rather badly off in some things. But I should not bore you with our troubles, which are easy to bear. March i6th. How trying the visit to Aldershot must have been, but it is so wise and kind of you to go. I cannot think of it without tears in my eyes. Formerly that was one of the greatest pleasures of my girlhood, and you and darling Papa looked so handsome to- gether. I so enjoyed following you on those occa- AT HOME AND AT WORK. 13I sions. Such moments I should Hke to call back for an instant. " Our house here is quite empty, and the demenage- ment creates such work. To-morrow night we sleep for the first time in the new house. March lyth. I write from our dear little old house. May dear Papa's and your blessing rest on our new home, as I am sure it will ! It is full of souvenirs of you both — all your pictures, photographs of dear brothers and sisters and home. It reminds me a little of Osborne, of Buckingham Palace, a little even of Balmoral. Could I but show it to darling Papa! If I have any taste, I owe it all to him, and I learned so much by seeing him arrange pictures, rooms, etc. At half-past seven we go into our house to-night. Bender is to say a prayer and pronounce a blessing, when we with all our household are assembled in hall ; only Louis' parents and William besides our- selves. Yours and dear Papa's I pray to rest on us. March 20th. That [the death of the Duchess of Kent] was the commencement of all the cfrief ; but with dar- ling Papa, so full of tenderness, sympathy and deli- cate feeling for you, how comparatively easy to bear, compared to all that followed ! * * ''' We are very comfortably established here, and I can't fancy that I am in Germany, the house and all its arrangements being so English. When can we hope once to have you here ? Of course that is the summit of our wishes. Your rooms are on the east side and very cool — as you always go abroad when it is hot, and suffer so much 132 PHINCESS ALICE. from the heat. I shall die of it this year, as my rooms are to the west. March 24th, * * * Our grand-uncle of Homburg has just died, so that Homburg falls to Uncle Louis now. But all the thinos of the Lando-ravine Elizabeth q-q to Princess Reuss, and her [Aunt Elizabeth's *] rooms are full of beautiful miniatures, oil-paintings, and ornaments eii masse, like Gloucester House. I shall be so glad to see dear Affie. His rooms are to be ready by this evening. The house is very comfortable, but the weather is awful — wind, rain, and sleet. In spite of it the house is so cheerful. How sorry I am for you that dear Auntf is gone. As she was so well this time, it will be a reason more for her returning soon to you. Dear Lady Frances Baillie was with me on Thurs- day, so dear and charming. April 2d. * * * We are livinsf in such a state of anxi- ety and alarm. War J would be too fearful a thing to contemplate — brother against brother, friend against friend, as it will be in this case ! May the Almighty avert so fearful a calamity ! Here, at Mayence and Frankfort, it will begin, if any thing happens, as there are mixed garrisons ; and we must side with one against the other. For Henry, who is still here, it is dreadful. He can't desert at such a moment, and yet if he should have to draw his sword against his country, his brothers fighting on the other side ! Fancy the complications and horrors of such a war 1 * Princess Elizabeth of Great Britain and Ireland, Princess Alice's grand- aunt. f Princess Hohenlohe. X War between Prussia and Austria was now imminent. AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 33 For Vicky and Fritz it is really dreadful ; please let me hear by 'messenger what you hear from them. I am .sure you think of us in these troubled times. What would dear Papa have said to all this ? I long to hear from you, to know that your warm heart is acting for Germany. March 26th. * * * The dear old Queen Marie Amelie * is gone to her rest at last, after a long and so stormy a life ! Claremont is now also altered. How sad those constant chang-es are ! It reminds one a^ain and again that we are on a journey, and that the real JiOTne is elsewhere. All those who work hard and love their fellow-creatures meet again, and the thorny path will be forgotten which leads to the happy meeting. I sincerely mourn for the dear Queen, and she was so kind to me always. I am glad she was one of Victoria's god-mothers. April 7th. * * * Our Bazaar goes off wonderfully : 7,000 florins the first day, and to-day again a great deal. Affie was invaluable in arrano-ino^, sellinfr, and assist- ing in every way. There have been crowds these two days, as in England : something quite unusual for the quiet inhabitants of this place. They have shown so much zeal and devotion that I am quite touched by it, as I am more or less a stranger to them. April 25th. Thousand thanks for your dear lines, and for the money and charming bas-relief of you, which I think very good. I thought so much of former birthdays at home in Buckingham Palace. They were so * Widow of King Louis Philippe. 134 PRINCESS ALICE. happy. We did nothing- in particular ; merely dined at Kranichstein with Uncle Louis in the afternoon. It was warm and fine. The money will go at once to Louis' man of busi- ness toward paying off the furniture, and is, indeed, very, very acceptable, more so under present cir- cumstances than any thing else you could give us ; and that part of the furniture will then all be your present. May 3d. * * '^ The prospect of war seems to be near- ing realization. It wnW be so dreadful if it does. God be with us, if such a misfortune befall poor Germany ! These prospects have already done much harm to trade. The large manufacturies send away their superfluous workmen, and they sell next to nothing. Most unpopular amongst high and low, and amongst people of all opinions, this civil war will be. * * * I have made all the summer out- walking dresses, seven in number, with paletots for the girls — not embroidered, but entirely made from beginning to end ; likewise the new necessary flannel shawls for the expected. I manage all the nursery accounts, and every thing myself, which gives me plenty to do, as every thing increases, and, on account of the house, we must live very economically for these next years. It is so kind of you to give Dr. Priestley his fee, otherwise I would have had scruples in giving so large a sum for my own comfort. If there is a war then, and Louis is away, what shall I do ? This is my constant dread and appre- hension. As long as he comes home safe again — that is all I shall think of. Please God to spare me AT HOME AND AT WORK. . 135 that fearful an^fiety, which weighs on me now al- ready ; for he, Raving only a brigade, could not keep out of danger, like Fritz in Schleswig. I put my trust wholly in the Almighty, who has watched over and blessed our life so richly thus far — so iuucIl, much more than I ever deserved, or can deserve ; and He will not forsake us in the hour of need, I am sure. These dangerous times make one very serious and anxious ; the comfort of faith and trust in God, who does all well and for the best, is the only sup- port. Life is but a pilgrimage — a little more or a little less sorrow falls to one's lot ; but the anticipa- tion of evil is almost as great a suffering as the evil itself, and mine always was an anxious nature, so I cannot banish the thoughts which all the dreadful chances of war force upon one. May 7th. * * * I am so sorry for poor Louise and Bea- trice, and whooping-cough is a nasty thing, though I wish we could complain of that as our sufferings here. Anxiety, worry without end ! Uncle Alexander returned from Vienna two days ago. The Emperor, Uncle Alexander Mensdorff, all frantic at being forced into war, but fearing now no more being able to prevent it. Cannot the other three Powers interfere and step between at this dan- gerous crisis — proposing a Congress, or any thing, so as to avert this calamity ? Henry, who was here on six weeks' leave, as he and Uncle Louis were to have gone to Russia (which now, of course, they won't do), had suddenly to re- turn to Bonn, as his regiment is made viobil. Uncle Alexander receives the command of the 8th Armee- corps, which I suppose and hope will be stationed 136 PRINCESS ALICE. somewhere near here, as Louis is in that, and is to go. He means to gO to BerHn this afternoon for a day to see Fritz, and tell him how circumstances now force him to draw his sword against the Prussians in the service of his own country. The whole thing is dreadful, and the prospect of being left alone here at such a moment (for all our people, nearly, will accom- pany Louis) is dreadful ! If I were only over my troubles I should not be so anxious, so nervous and unhappy, as I must say the anticipation of all these dreadful things makes me. Could I follow in the distance ! But now that is impossible, and I have not a single older married person near me. When dear Louis goes, of course Westerweller oroes too. I still pray and hope that there be no war ; even if all the troops are assembled, I hope that the other Powers will interfere, and not look on whilst these brothers cut each others throats. It is such an un- natural, monstrous war ! The death of Lord and Lady Rivers is dreadful for their children, but how blessed for themselves! I hope Lady Caroline [Barrington] will pass by here, which will be a great pleasure to me, though she says she can but stop two days, as you wish her to be home by the i5th. May iSth, * * * How orlad I am to hear that Lord Clarendon is still hopeful ! Here as yet, though there is no distinct reason for it, save the repug- nance of all to this civil war, all still hope to avoid the war. Every day we have occasion to hear how the Prussians detest this war — army and all — and there are constant rows, wath the Landwehr in par- ticular. Men of forty, who have families and homes to look after, are taken away with their sons ; and AT HOME AXD AT WORK. 1 37 those who have horses are also taken, with their horses : so that»the wife and children sit at home, unable to do any thing for their land. It is ruining numbers, and murmurs get louder and louder. A revolution must break out if this continues. "'" * * I do pray most fervently that the King will listen to the just advice, in no way derogatory to his dignity, of placing the hated question of the Duchies before the Confederation ; but I fear he won't. If he would only listen to that advice and disarm, all Germany would do it at once — only too gladly — forgetting all the losses in the happiness of peace restored. For- give my stupid letter, but we live really so in the midst of these affairs, on which our existence will turn, that I can think of nothing else. Austria can't hold out much longer, and the country is getting very violent against the King and Bismarck. The Emperor is less able to concede and keep peace. Now good-bye, dearest Mama. We are so grate- ful to you for taking the children, if any thing comes to pass. May 2 2d. :i: % -K- Any thlug you hear of Vicky and Fritz, will you write it to me } "" * '•' The cloud grows blacker every day, and the anxiety we all live in is very great. But I ought not to write to you to-day of such gloomy things, which, thank God, you only see and hear of from the other side of the water. May 25th. * ::: ^\\Q, Duke aud Duchess of Nassau were here yesterday. They, like me, are in such an un- pleasant position, should it come to blows, which I still hope may be averted — for why should we harm- less mortals be attacked ? 138 PHINCESS ALICE. :•: H: -x- \Yg sliall be beggars very soon, if all goes on as it promises to do ; it is quite dre;iaclful, and the want of other people (and dissatisfaction) increases. "^^ * '•' I have ordered a good trawel- ling-bag for Louis, for much the same reason that some people take out an umbrella in fine weather to keep off the rain, and this is to be against a war. * * * I have a sort of Ahmmg [presentiment that it won't come to the worst — for us at least — anc. here we shall keep so quiet, only on the defensive, if attacked. May sSth. % * * There seems a little chance of the dreadful prospects being bettered. How I do pray it may be the commencement of a better time ; and that, if peace be established, it may be so firmly, so that one may not live in the daily dread of new quarrels re-opening between the two countries. H: ::: -K- The man who built our house has nearly been made bankrupt, and wants money from us to save him from ruin, and we can scarcely manage it. The ruin this preparation for war, and consequent cessa- tion of all speculations, buildings, or trade, has brought on people is dreadful, and of course in- creases. * * * June 8th. * * * How precious are your words of love and sympathy and the hope you still hold to, that war may somehow be averted ! It does me good to hear it ; and I know how much, and how lovingly, your thoughts dwell with dear Vicky and with me during this time of trial. * * * June 13th. * * * I fear if the Bund orders the mobiliza- AT HOME AND AT WORK. I39 tion, and goes against Prussia, our troops will be the first to go, and then Louis may get orders to be off any day. It is too dreadful ! 1 live in such dread that he may have to go just before, or at the very moment of my confinement. ''^ ^ * I hope Scotland will do you good. Please God, when you return matters may be better. If Austria and Prussia would only fight out their quarrel together ; but the latter has taken refuge with the Bund now, because she wanted it. Darmstadt, June 15th. * * * The serious illness of poor little Sigis- mund ^ in the midst of all these troubles is really dreadful for poor Vicky and Fritz, and they are so fond of that merry little child. We have just received the news that the Prussians have crossed our frontier and established themselves at Giessen. The excitement here is dreadful and it is very difficult to keep people back from doing stupid things — wanting to attack, and so on, which with our force alone would be madness. Louis — as always — remains quiet ; but we live in a perpetual fever, alarms being sent, being gehdzt [stirred up] from Vienna, as they want the Bund to go with them at once. It is a dreadful time. I an- ticipate it will be the close of the existence of the little countries. God stand by us ! Without the civil list Uncle Louis and the family are beggars, as all the private property belongs to the country. It is so kind of dear Lady Ely to offer to come. I shall be very glad of it, for from one day to another I don't know what Louis' duties may be ; and, when I am laid up, it is so pleasant to have some one who can write to you. * Son of the Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia. See ««/■ drive from Dresden. In August, the King of Prussia for the first timci personally inspected the Hessian troops. Thtt Prince commanded the troops at the manoeuvres in Upper Hesse, at the conclusion of which they paraded before the King of Prussia at Bergen. Some weeks later, the Prince and Princess of Wales and their family paid Prince and Princess Louis a visit at Kranichstein. The opening of the Idiot Asylum built by the Princess took place on the 1 5th of October in her presence and that of the Prince. It had been arransred that Prince Louis should accompany the Crown Prince of Prussia on his journey to the East, on the occasion of the open- ing of the Suez Canal. He started on the 9th of October for Venice. The two Princes visited Corfu, Athens, and Constantinople, and were received with every possible honor in the capitals of Greece and Turkey. They went on to Jaffa, and thence to Jerusalem, Hebron, Damascus, and Baalbec, and finally, on the i5th of November, they arrived at Port Said, where they met a large number of other Princes. A journey up the Nile as far as the first and second cataracts brought their travels to an end. They returned home by way of Naples, and through Italy. 21 8 PJ?INCESS ALICE. During the absence of the two Princes, the Crown Princess of Prussia and Princess AHce, with her h'ttle son, went to Cannes. Whilst there, the Princess devoted herself entirely to the care of her child. Being together with her sister, and in that sunny country, made up somewhat for the long sep- aration from her husband. The Princes joined the two Princesses at Cannes shortly before Christmas. The new year saw them all at home again. Darmstadt, January 8th. H: :i: :■: Dear charming Lady Frances [Baillie] is on a visit with us, and I enjoy having her so much. We talk of old times at Frogmore, and so many pleasant recollections, I am glad that you like baby's photograph, though it does not do him justice. He is a pretty baby on the whole, and has a beautiful skin, very large eyes, and pretty mouth and chin ; but his nose is not very pretty, as it is so short at present. He is a dear good child, and, though immensely lively, does not give much trouble. He is a great source of happi- ness to us, and I trust will continue so. Darmstadt, January 13th. * » * jg j^Q(- j-j-jg death of Leopold's son shock- ins: ? * Such sufferinof, such 9. strues^le for months between life and death ; and for the poor parents to have in the end to relinquish their child, their only son! I think it heart-rending. May the Almighty continue to supp.ort them even now, as he did these many months I J cannot say how much and truly I feel for them both. This world is full of trials, and some seem to be called upon to suffer and give up so * J^e oply son aod heir of the King of the Belgians. AT HOME AND AT WORK. 2ig mirch. Faith and resiornation alone can save those hearts from breaking:, when the burden must be so heavy. A few days ago at two o'clock we had another shock [of earthquake], and it seemed as if the house rocked ; at the same time the unearthly noise. I think it uncommonly unpleasant, particularly this repetition. January 30th. Our thoughts and prayers are so much with you and dear Leopold on this day [his Confirmation]. May the Almighty bless and protect that precious boy, and give him health and strength to continue a life so well begun and so full of promise ! It seems to me quite incredible, the eighth of us should already be old enough to take this step in life, and to have his childhood in fact behind him. Dear Papa's blessing surely rests on him, and his spirit is near you as you stand there alone by the side of his child, about whom he always was so anxious. February 5th. * * " Beloved Papa's cast arrived a few days ago, and stands in my bedroom. I think it very beautiful, and thank you so warmly for having sent it me. Poor Orchard, whose leg is very painful and swelled, is to ero to bed for a week for entire rest of the limb. You can imagine how inconvenient this is, as we have only Emma and Kathrinchen for the others and babv. You will be amused when I tell you that old Amelung is coming to sleep with baby, and take charge of him ; but she is too old and out of practice to be able to wash and dress him morning and evening besides, so I do that, and it is of course a great assistance to all, my being able to do it, and 220 PRINCESS ALICE. I don't mind the trouble. Of a morning, as Louis is usually out riding or at his office, I take Victoria and Ella out, who are very good little girls and very amusing. Darmstadt, March 8th. * * * We shall go to Potsdam the first week in May, and from there go for a week or ten days to Fischbach. My mother-in-law, Tante Mariechen, and Uncle Adalbert, are all going to spend my mother-in-law's birthday there. The Moriers are going to England in the first days of April, and I hope that you will see them. We see a good deal of them, and like them both much. He is wonderfully clever and learned, and -takes interest in every thing ; and she is very agreeable, and a most satisfied, amiable disposition — always contented and amused. March 19th. I thought of you so much on the i6th. From that day dated the commencement of so much grief and sorrow; yet in those days you had one, darling Mama, whose first thought and deepest was to com- fort and help you, and I saw and understood only then how he watched over you, and how and every- where he sought to ward off all that was painful and strange from you, and took all that pain alone for himself for your sake ! I see his dear face — so pale, and so full of tears, when he led me to you early that morning after all was over and said, " Comfort Mama," as if those words were a Vovbe- deutung [presage] of what was to come. In those days I think he knew how deep my love was for you, and that as long as I was left in my home, my first and only thought should be you and you alone ! AT HOME AND AT WORK. 221 This I held as my hoHest and dearest duty, until I had to leave you, my beloved Mother, to form a home and family for myself, and new ties which were to take up much of my heart and strength. But that bond of love, though I can no more be near you, is as strong as ever. Darmstadt, March 23d, * * * Yesterday it was very warm, and to- day it snows ; the weather continues so changeable and many people are ill. Ella has again had one of her bad attacks in her throat, but, thank God, it passed away very soon. Two nights ago she could not speak — barely breathe — and was so uncomfort- able, poor child. It makes one so anxious each time ; but I hope she will outgrow it, when she is six or seven years old. Victoria is already now composing a letter for your birthday. I won't have her helped, because I should like you to see her own ideas and style — it is much more amusincf. March 26th. * * * We had such an unexpected pleasure the other day in the visit of good General Seymour, and I was so pleased to see some one who had seen you lately, and who could give me news of my home. He had not been here since he came with us after our marriage, and was of course interested in seeing every thing. April 2d. * * * The constant anxiety about the chil- dren is dreadful ; and it is not physical ill one dreads for them, it is moral : the responsibility for these little lent souls is great, and, indeed, none can take it lightly who feel how great and important a parent's duty is. t 222 PRINCESS ALICE. Darmstadt, April 5th. * * * Thousand thanks for your dear letter, and for all the tender wishes for our dear child's birthday! The child born under your roof and your care is of course your particular one, and later, if you wish to keep her at any time when we have been paying" you a visit, we shall gladly leave her. Victoria is so delighted with what you sent her, and sends her very warmest thanks and her tender- est love. She is in great beauty just at present, as she is grown stouter ; and I look with pleasure on those two girls when they go out together. They possess, indeed, all we could wish, and are full of promise. May the Almighty protect them and give them a long life, to be of use and a joy to their fellow-creatures ! April i6th, * ^' ■^' Rain and wind have at length cooled the air, for this heat without any shade was too un- pleasant. Louis left at five this morning to inspect the orarrison at Friedbero- and Giessen, and then to go to Alsfeld to shoot Auerhdiine [capercailzies]. He will return on the 21st or 2 2d probably. We shall indeed be so pleased, if later you wish to have any of the granddaughters with you, to comply with any such wish, for I often think so sadly for your dear sake, how lonely it must be when one child after another grows up and leaves home ; and even if they remain, to have no children in the house is most dreary. Surely you can never lack to have some from amongst the many grandchildren ; and there are none of us, who would not gladly have our children live under the same roof where we passed such a happy childhood, with such a loving Grandmama to take care of them. A T HOME AND A T WORK. 223 April 25th. * * * May I only know the way to give my children as muth pleasure and happiness as you have ever known to give me ! The dinner of family and suite is here in the house to-day — or rather I should call it a luncheon, as it is at two o'clock. The Irish Church question, I quite feel with you, will neither be solved nor settled in this way ; and instead of doine somethinof which would brinof the Catholics more under the authority of the State, they will, I fear, be the more powerful. It seems to me that one injustice (with regard to the Protestants) is to be put in the place of a former one, instead of doing justice to both, which would not have been an impossibility through some well-considered set- tlement and eivinof in on both sides. Such a cha7iv^^\, and I am so, too, to hear from the mouths of so many wounded officers the loud praise of Louis' great bravery on the i6th and i8th. Always in front, encouraging his men where the battle raged fiercest and the balls fell thickest. He was near our troops, speaking to them, directing them, and right and left of him they fell in masses. This lasted eight hours ! AT HOME AND AT WORK. 257 * * * Hourly almost the trains bring" in fresh wounded, and many and shocking are the sights one sees. I only returned here by one, having gone to town at- half-past eight this morning, and have still three hospitals for this afternoon. My nurses reached the battlefield in time, and were of great use. Louis telegraphed (yesterday's date) from Auboue, between Thionville and Metz, where they remain in bivouac. * * * j|- j^ ^^^ days since Louis has been in a bed or under a roof. They have no water (it is kept for the wounded), and little to eat, but he is very well. It is difficult to get news, and I can never send any that is not mostly ten days old ere it reaches him. August 26th. * * * I had a telegram on the 2 5th from near Marengo, not far from Metz — all well. Louis has not been in bed or under a roof since the i6th, and it rains incessantly. I hope they won't all be ill. He writes mostly on cards, on the hilt of his sword, sit- ting on a box. They cook their own dinner, and on the 1 6th they were going to eat it, when orders came to turn the French left wing- and go into battle. That night was awful, though the day of the i8th seems to have been the bloodiest ever known. Our wounded all tell me so. My dear parents-in-law bear up well ; but when we three get together we pour our hearts out to each other, and then tears which are full of anxiety will flow. Kranichstein, September 2d. I went early to Homburg, as no trains go regu- larly now. I went by road from Frankfort, and found dear Vicky well — her little baby very pretty and 258 PRINCESS ALICE. healthy-looking ; the other dear children also well. How much we had to tell each other ! How much to be proud of, and how many friends and acquaint- ances to mourn over ! The few hours we had to- gether flew by in no time, and at Frankfort the train was unpunctual — outside Darmstadt it waited nearly an hour. At our palace, where I arrived at ten in the evening, people who were going to our Haiip- quartier [headquarters], were waiting. I scribbled a few words to my dear Louis (the first since he re- ceived the Iron Cross, a great distinction) and packed a few things for him — tea, etc. September 15th. Though I am still forbidden to use my eyes, I must send you a few words of thanks for your dear letter and telegram. I had a violent inflammation of eyes and throat, with two days strong fever and neuralgia. I am recovering now, but feel the effects very much ; my eyes are still bad, and it has reduced my strength, which I require so much. Dr. Weber has just lost his sister (whom he treated in her con- finement) from puerperal fever, and he told me he thought he must have given it to her, from going to and fro to his wounded, for Lazarethfieber [hospital fever] and that were so closely akin. You can fancy that in Louis' absence, and with the prospect of be- ing alone, without even a married experienced lady in the house, this prospect frightened me. It is un- healthy at any time to be for one's confinement in a town full of hospitals with wounded, and Weber could never ofive me as much attention as at anodier time, and, should I be very ill, there is no authority to say any thing about what had best be done. On that account your telegram was a relief to me. AT HOME AND AT WORK. 259 September 20th. * * * Daily I hear the muffled drums of the funeral of some soldier or officer beino- taken past my windows to his last resting-place. How deeply I do feel for the poor parents and widows ! My children are very well, but have absolutely no place where they can walk with safety from infection, for the mass of sick troops who get out and stop near the Exercirplatz [drill-ground], and the hospitals in town. The barrack at the foot of our garden con- tains 1,200 French prisoners, and many of them ill. It is much to be hoped that there will be soon an end to all these things. I feel for the Emperor and Empress very much. What ungrateful, vain, and untruthful people the French are ! To expose Paris to a siege, now their armies are beaten, which they think through fine speeches and volunteers they can set right again. September 22d. I received your letter through Kanne yesterday, and thank you many times for it; also for the little shawls and sash for Ernie. Every souvenir from dear Balmoral is a pleasure. Good Dr. Hofmeister will be very welcome, and I know he is very clever. Mrs. Clarke is sure to get on well with him, and an older doctor just now, be- sides being an acquaintance of so many years, is to me indeed a comfort. I shall be able also to hear of all at home, and of so many things that interest me. Thousand thanks from Louis and from myself for your sending him, * * * Ar.L long for peace — the army and the nation — and I think so great a national war as this need not require part of the foes' territory. What little is necessary for the military frontier they must take ; 26o PRINCESS ALICE. but the union of Germany under one head is a far crreater and finer end to such a war than the annex- ation of land ! , * * * War is the greatest scourge this world knows, and that we may not live to see it again, is my earnest prayer. October ist. * * * The children are all well, in spite of the bad air here. I send them out driving of an after- noon, when I can best, having only one coachman, as ours are with Louis. At present they can't manage it often. ^- * * October 3d. * * * Dr. Hofmeister is to both of us a source of real confidence and comfort. I don't think anyone else would have been more welcome to me just now, and he can write daily to Louis, and letters go usually in two days now. I go as little as possible to the hospital now, and, indeed, do nothing imprudent, you can be sure. * * * November 12th. * * * The nerves of my forehead and eyes are still painful ; and from all sides I am again called upon to look after, settle, and advise concerning many things. On that account Dr. Weber and my mother-in-law insist on my leaving Darmstadt for a total change of scene, etc., for three weeks. I have resisted as long as I could, as I so much dislike going from home now (though I do not feel up to the work, and yet cannot keep from doing it), but I have finally given in, and accepted Vicky's kind invi- tation to accompany her for three weeks to Berlin. The journey is long and cold, but her company when AT HOME AND AT WORK. 26 1 we are both alone is a pleasure to me, and I shall hear all news as directly there as here. * * * Last night I was much overcome. I had been sitting at the bedside of one of my poor young- friends, and he was gasping in a too-distressing way. The father held his hand, the tears streaming down his cheek, the son was trying to say " Wcinc nicJit, Papa " [" Don't weep, Papa !"]. The poor old father, so proud of his good and handsome child, is heart- broken, and they are touchingly united and full of feeling for each other. I would give any thing to save his life ; but all efforts will, I fear, be in vain. Though I have seen so many lately die hard deaths, and heard and seen the grief of many heart-broken widows and mothers, it makes my heart bleed anew in each fresh case, and curse the wickedness of war again and again. Poor baby can't be christened yet, as my parents- in-law think Louis would not like it durine his ab- sence, so I shall wait. ■''' * * November 17 th. * * * How I rejoice to hear that Leopold gains so much strength, and that he can be about again as usual. Will you kindly tell him in Louis' name and mine (as I am still restricted in all writing and reading) that we beg him to stand godfather to our little son ? "' Baby is so nice and fat now, and thrives very well. I think you would admire him, his fea- tures are so pretty, and he is so pink, and looks so wide-awake and intcUiirent. Ernie, who in general is a rough boy, is most tender and gentle to his little brother, and not jealous. '•' '•' ''' ♦Prince Frederick William, the "Friltie" of these letters, born the 6th of the previous month of October, and who was killed by a fall from a win- dow on the 29th of May, 1873. 262 PJilXCESS ALICE. Berlin, December 5th. ■¥• * Yesterday Fieldmarshal Wrangel came to see me, and his words were, '' Zu gratidirc7i dass Jhr Mann ei7i Held ist, tend sich so superb gesch- lagcn hat " [" Accept my congratulations that your husband is a hero, and lias fouo^ht so macrnifi- cently "]. I am very proud of all this, but I am too much a woman not to long above all things to have him safe home again. * •■!: -::- 'YhG evenings Vicky and I spend alone together, talking, or writing our letters. There is so much to speak of and think about, of the present and the future, that it is to me a great comfort to be with dear Vicky. It is nearly five months since Louis left, and we lead such single existences that a sister is inexpressibly dear when all closer inter- course is so wanting ! There is so much, beloved Mama, I should like to speak to you about. * * * The girls are quite well, and very happy with their grandparents. The governess — who in the end did not suit for the children — as the six months' trial is over, will not remain, and I am looking for another one. Darmstadt, December i8th. * * * 'j^j-^g children and I bore the journey well, and it was not cold. Parting from dear Vicky was a hard moment, and I shall feel the loneliness here so much, and miss my dear good Louis more than ever. The children are, of course, at such a time the greatest blessing. There is so much to do for them, and to look after for them ; and mine are dear good children, and do not give over-much trouble. Letters I have again received speak of the amount of danger Louis has again been daily exposed AT HOME AND AT WORK. 263 to, and how his personal courage and daring" have given the victory in many a fight. God protect him ! I live in fear and'trembling for his precious life, and after I hear of his being safe through one battle, I take it as a fresh present from the Almighty, and breathe freer ao^ain, though the fear soon enough gets the upper hand again. I have asked Uncle Louis to allow his Bcrichte [reports] to be copied for you. Louis has Kdhler and another footman with him, that is all — and two coachmen. He rides in all battles the horse you gave him in 1866, which he rode during that cam- paign, and which is quite invaluable. It would in- terest Colonel Maude to know this, as he bought the horse. My nursery is in very good order, and they are all invaluable in their way. How is good Dr. Hoffmeister's family } Please say many kind things to him from me, and tell him that the baby is getting so nice and fat, and is so healthy in spite of all troubles. Here is a photo- graph of him, but not at all flattered. Please give Dr. Hofmeister one of them ! I have this instant received a letter from Louis dated the nth! I will have an extract made for you, I think it might interest Bertie to hear some- thing of Louis, whom he can be proud to have as a brother-in-law, for I hear his praises continually. He has been throughout the war, as every other Gen- eral has been, without a carriage, etc., like other Princes, and has gained the respect and devotion of his troops. Darmstadt, December 19th. * ^' '^' I hope for this last time, if we are spared and live to come over together once more, we may have the joy of showing their dear Grandmama the 264 FJ?INCESS ALICE. whole little band. Of course, no thoughts of plans can be entertained, and I know, after so very long a separation, Louis would not be willing again to part from his children. My wounded were so pleased to see me again yesterday. Alas ! many in bed, and so ill still ! My two in the house are much better, and the one who during six weeks lay at death's door is recovering. I have seldom experienced so great a satisfaction as seeing this young man recover, and the doctors say I have been the means of saving his life. The joy of the old parents will be very great. Since I left, there are new widows, and fresh parents bereft of only children ; it is a most painful duty to go to them. But I know the comfort of sympathy is the only one in deep grief. December 23d. My warmest and tenderest thanks for your dear and loving letter, with so many expressions of a mother's love and sympathy, which do my heart good, now that I feel so lonely and anxious. It seems too great a happiness to think of, that of our beine allowed to come with our children to you, and to Scotland ; and you know the smallest corner is enough for us, who are by no means particular — neither are our people. If I write this to Louis, it will be somethinof for him to look forward to, to cheer him and reward him after so hard a time, which he bears so bravely and uncomplainingly. This morning I have been at the Alice Hospital, which is prospering. I have been taking my gifts for Christmas to one hospital after another. Your two capes have delighted the poor sufferers, and the one wounded for the second time is very bad, alas ! My wounded officer in the house is recovering, next A T HOME AND A T WORK. 265 to a miracle. For the two wounded in the house, the children, our household, and the children of our servants at the war, I arrange Christmas-trees. We grown-up ones of the family have given up keeping Christmas for ourselves. We have too much to do for others, and my parents-in-law, like me, feel the absence of the dear ones who are always here for Christmas. I am superintending Victoria and Ella's letters to you, which have not achieved the perfection wished for. As they are to be quite their own, I hope you will excuse their arriving a little later. Darmstadt, December 27th. * * * Louis telegraphed on Christmas day from Orleans, where I had sent Christa's brother with a box of eatables and woollen things for his people, and a tiny Christmas-tree with little lights for the whole party. Louis has sent me a photo- graph of himself and staff done at Orleans, and I have sent for a copy for you, as it is very good. On Christmas day it was five months since Louis and the troops left. The charming stockings you sent, I have sent off in part to-day to Louis to give to his Stabsivache [Staff-guard] ; the other things I divide among the wounded and sick. My children are all well. The little one sits up, and, though not very fat, is round and firm, with rosy cheeks and the brightest eyes possible. He is very healthy and strong, and in fact the prettiest of all my babies. The three girls are so grown, partic- ularly the two eldest, you would scarcely know them. They are both very tall for their age. Vic- toria is the height of Vicky's Charlotte, and Ella not much less. They are thin, and a change of air would be very beneficial. 266 PRINCESS ALICE. 1871. The christening of the little Prince took place quietly on the iith of February, the child receiving the names of Frederick William. The sponsors were the Empress of Germany, the Crown Princess, Crown Prince, Prince Frederick Charles of Prussia, and Princess Alice's own brother, Prince Leopold. The ceremony took place in the absence of Prince Louis, who had been unable to get leave, although an armistice had been concluded on the 28th of January, which it was hoped would be the forerunner of peace. On the 1 8th of March the King of Prussia, who had meanwhile become Emperor of Germany, made his entry into Frankfort-on-the-Main, together with his son and his whole staff. The Grand Duke of Hesse and the members of his family received him there. Prince Louis at last obtained ten days' leave of absence, and arrived at Darmstadt on the 21st of March. The parents of the Prince had gone to meet him and his brother William a few stations beyond Darmstadt, whilst the Princess Alice awaited her husband at the Darmstadt railway station. The joy and thankfulness of that meeting can well be imagined. Darmstadt was gaily decorated in honor of the Prince's return ; and he met with an enthusi- astic reception. Prince and Princess Louis were present at Berlin on the 1 6th of June at the triumphal entry of the A T HOME AND A T WORK. 267 German troops on the conclusion of the peace. On the 2 1 St of June th^ Prince entered Darmstadt at the head of his Hessian division. In spite of pouring rain, the town presented a most festive appearance. Later on the Prince and Princess and their children went to Seeheim (near Darmstadt), where her brother, Prince Alfred, visited them on his return from his three years' voyage round the world. The Prince and Princess of Wales also paid their sister a visit ; and Prince and Princess Louis saw much of their Russian relations, who were then staying at Jugenheim. In August, the family went to the seaside at Blankenberghe, where they spent three weeks, and afterward went to London. They arrived at Bal- moral on the 13th of September, on a visit to the Queen, whom they found suffering severely. They stayed with her till the ist of November, but the children, who had caught the whooping cough, were sent to London sooner. Whilst at Sandringham, to which the Prince and Princess went on their way back from Balmoral, in the middle of November, the Prince of Wales was taken ill. Prince Louis had to return to Darmstadt, but the Princess remained in England, and shared the anxieties of the very dan- gerous and protracted illness of her brother, whom she helped to nurse. It was the same terrible fever (typhoid) which, ten years before, had ended the life of the beloved Prince Consort, and it was so severe that the worst was feared. Prince Louis returned 268 PRINCESS ALICE. to England on the very day when the danger was greatest, but he also was able to share in the joy and thankfulness when improvement set in upon the 14th of December. He remained over Christmas, and returned to Darmstadt before the year was at an end. Darmstadt, January 7th. * * * In England people are, I fear, becom- ing unjust toward the German troops. Such a long and bloody war must demoralize the best army ; and I only say, in such a position how would the French have behaved } Many French officers say the same, and how greatly they respect the German soldier. Hundreds of French officers and two generals have broken their word of honor, and run away. I doubt, whether one in the German army would do such a thing. The French peasants, often women, murder our soldiers in their beds, and the wounded they have used too horribly many a time. Is it a wonder, then, when the men let a feeling of revenge lay hold of them ? A guerilla war is always horrid, and no words can say how all Germans feel and de- plore the present phase of the war ! I hope and trust that the end may not be far distant. One of the poor wounded soldiers whom I gave your cape to is dying, and the poor boy won't part from it for an instant, and holds it tight round him- self. Louis continues at Orleans, where they have en- trenched themselves, and await with impatience news from Paris which must be of great influence for the continuation or ending of the war. My days fly past. The children take much of my time — so, too, the house, my two wounded in the A T HOME AND A T WORK. 269 house, and the hospitals, to one of which I go daily. •■ Darmstadt, January 14th, * * .* How kind of you to work something for Louis ; he will wear it with such pleasure. Prince Frederick Carl's recent victories * and the fresh hosts of prisoners must help to bring the war to an end. Germany does not wish to go on, but the French won't see that they are beaten, and they will have to accept the visitors, who must increase in numbers the longer the French refuse to accede to the German demands. I am so low, so deeply grieved for the misery en- tailed on both sides, and feel for the French so much. Our troops do not pillage in the way described in English papers. I have read far worse accounts of what the French soldiers and frajzcs-tircurs do in their French villages. The poor soldier who had your cape is dead. He died with it round him. I was with him in the after- noon, and he had tears in his eyes, and was very low. In the nio^ht he died. This morninof I was at the station to give things to the wounded and sick who came through — a sorry sight. This afternoon I am going to a poor soldier's widow who has just had twins. The distress on all sides is great. I help where I can. Becker tears his hair. The two wounded in the house cost so much. So does every thing else ; but as long as I can, through sparing on myself, help others, I must do it — though I have, as thinofs now are, nothincf left. I will get a head of Ernest done for your brace- let, and another one, so that you may have some- thing else of him. He is a magnificent boy, but so * On the lOth, nth, and 12th of January, 1871, before Le Mans. 270 FJ?INCESS ALICE. huge — such Ihnbs ! The baby is not at all small, but near Ernest all the others look small. He can't speak properly yet, but he understands every thing, and has a wonderful ear for music. He sines the " Gtden Kameraden'' without a fault in the time, and is passionately fond of dancing, which he also does in time. Irene is erowine fast also, but the two eldest are quite big girls ; it makes me feel old when I see them growing up to me so fast. Victoria has a very en- quiring mind, and is studious, and learns easily and well. Since the middle of December I have been without a governess. To-morrow I go to Mayence to see poor Wolde- mar* Holstein's sister. He is very bad, to the grief of all Mayence, and of all who know him. Darmstadt, January i6th, * * * It is pouring and thawing — most dismal — and my thoughts are with our dear ones and our poor troops far away. Becker lost his brother-in- law, who leaves a wife (Matilda, Becker's sister) and four little children. Each day fresh losses. My litde baby ought to be christened, but Louis and my parents-in-law always hope that the end of hostilities is near, and that Louis can then get leave. Baby's blue eyes are beginning to turn, and look al- most as if they would be brown. Should dear Grandmama's and -Grandpapa's eyes come up again amongst some of the grandchildren, how nice it would be ! I have but litde news to give. I go about to the poor soldiers' widows and wives — no end of them, with new-born babies, in the greatest distress. * Prince Henry Charles Woldemar of Schleswig-Holstein, Governor of ihe Fortress of Mayence. He died on the 20th of January, 1871. AT NOME AND AT WORK. 2/1 Yesterday I saw the mother of the poor young soldier who died. She keeps your cape as a precious rehc, as it had givQn him such great pleasure. January 30th, Your charming photograph and kind letter arrived this morning — thousand thanks for both ! How like the photograph, and how pleasing ! I am so glad to have it. The armistice and capitulation of Paris are great events. The people are out of their minds with joy — flags all over the town, and the streets crowded. I forgot to say in my last letter how grieved I was about Beaty Durham's "=' death. It is quite shock- ing! and those numbers of children in so short a time. I earnestly hope none of us run such a chance, for on the whole our children have not been so close together. My last came sooner than I wished, and is smaller than his brother, but I hope now for a long rest. I have baby fed, besides, so as not to try my strength. He is very healthy and strong, and is more like Victoria and my brothers and sisters than my other children, and his eyes remind me of Uncle Ernest's, and seem turning brown, which would be very pretty, as he is very fair otherwise. Your pretty photograph is standing before me, and makes me quite absent. I catch myself con- tinually staring at it, instead of writing my letters. Darmstadt, February 2d. * * * All the many French here are pleased at the capitulation of Paris, and hope that peace is certain. Louis writes to me that the inhabitants of Orleans were equally pleased, and consider the war over. I earnestly pray it may be so. How greatly relieved and thankful all Germany would be ! * Daughter of the Duke of Abercorn. 272 PHLVCESS ALICE. Louis telegraphed to-day. He has no leave as yet, though he hopes for it. Now that there is a prospect of peace, and that the fighting is momenta- rily over, I feel quite a collapse of my nerves, after the strain that has been on them for six whole months. I can scarcely imagine what it will be when my beloved Louis is at home again ; it seems too great a joy ! Rest and quiet together are what I long for ; and I fear in the first weeks he will have so much to do, and there will be much eoine on. He speaks with the greatest hope of going to Scotland this autumn ; and, if we are spared to do so, it will be such a rest, and do good to our healths, which must feel the wear and tear sooner or later. February nth. Many thanks for your last kind letter. I thought so much of you yesterday, spending the dear loth for the first time again at Windsor. To day our little son is to be christened, but only the family will be present, and my ladies and the two wounded gen- tlemen, who can get about on crutches now. When I think that the one owes his life to being here, it always gives me pleasure. Two nights ago I was awakened by a dreadful noise, the whole house and my bed rocking from it ; and twice again, though less violently. It was an earthquake, and I think too unpleasant. It fright- ens one so ; the doors and windows rattle and shake. To-night two slight shocks, and one during the day yesterday. How I shall miss dear Louis to-day ! The seven months will be round ere we meet, I fear, and he has never seen his dear little boy. It always makes me sad to look at him, though now I have every reason to hope — please God — that I shall have the A T HOME AND A T JVOJ?Jir. 2/3 joy of seeing Louis come home, and of placing his baby in his arms. My heart it full, as you can fan- cy, and, much as f long to see Louis, I almost dread the moment — the emotion will be so great, and the long pent-up feelings will find vent. I pray that peace may be restored, and that I may not live to see siccA a war again, or to see my sons have to go to it. I will tell Christa to write an account to you of the christening, for Leopold to see also, as he will be godfather. Frederic William Augustus (after the Empress) Victor (victory) Louis will be his names. Fritz and Vicky, the Empress and Fritz Carl, are godparents. Darmstadt, February 14th, My bad eyes must again excuse the shortness of these lines, which are to thank you many times for your last dear letter. Christa will have sent you the account of little Fritz's christening, which was a sad day for me, and will have been so for dear Louis likewise. We have added dear Leopold's name to the other, as his sad life, and the anxiety his health has so often caused us all, endear him particularly, and we hoped it would give him pleasure, poor boy. The elections in the provinces are all for peace, and only the towns for war and a republic. This week is one of intense and anxious expectation ; though the greater portion believe in the restoration of peace, yet we have no security for it. March 6th. -X- -X- * Now dear Louise's marriage draws near, how much you must feel it! I think so much of her, of your and of my dear home. I trust she will 274 PRINCESS ALICE. be very happy, which with such an amiable young man she must be. Louis has received the Order ''Pour le vierite," which I am so glad of for him. The Emperor tele- graphed the announcement to my mother-in-law, with many complimentary words about her sons. To have the three sons safe is something to be thankful for, for they were much and continually exposed. I know nothing of Louis' coming. The troops march home, and it will take at least six weeks. I hope so much that he may have leave for a fortnight, and then return to the troops, to lead them home. To-night are the peace illuminations here, which will be very pretty. Our house will also be illumi- nated, and I take the two eldest girls out with me to-night to see it all. It is a thing for them never to j forget, this great and glorious, though too horrid, war. March 13th. I know nothing as yet of Louis' return. I fear I must wait a few weeks longer. On Wednesday the Emperor, Fritz, and some of the Princes pass through Frankfort, and I am going there with my parents-in- law to see them. The Paris news is not very edifying, and I fear France has not seen the worst yet, for there seems to be a fearful state of anarchy there. I have no news to give, save that Frittie has his first tooth. He is between Victoria and Irene, but not like Ernie — not near so big, which is really not necessary. I think he is the sort of baby you ad- mire. I go on looking after my hospitals, and now the trains, full of Landwehr returning home cheering and singing, begin to pass. Now good-bye, darling Mama. I am in thought daily with you during these A T HOME AND A T WORK. 2/5 days, and only wish it had been in my power to be of any use or comfort to you just now. •■ Darmstadt, April 8th. * * * We had the pleasure of catching- a glimpse of Louise and Lome on their way through, but their stay was too short to be able to say more than a few words. They can scarcely help passing through here, as they can't go through France, on their way back; and if you would allow them quite incognito on their way back to pass a day here, it would give both Louise and me the greatest pleasure, and entail no other visits. The Emperor, who kindly gave Louis leave, pro- longed it till Monday, when he leaves, and for how long is quite undecided. If I could only go with him ! Marie of Saxony has joined George : so has Carola [the Crown Princess of Saxony] her hus- band ; but our division, which is near Chumont, is in too bad and close quarters to admit of my living there. Should Louis have to remain very lonq-, I still hope to rejoin him — I don't care about the little dis- comfort. The new governess, Frl. Kitz, comes on Thursday. She is not young, but pleasing-looking — said to be very amiable, and a good governess ; has been for eighteen years in Enq^land, first with Lady Palk, and then for ten years with Herr Kleinwart — a rich Ger- man banker in London — where she brought up the two daughters. Darmstadt, April 13th. * * * Ernie's kilt was sent him by Mr. Mitchell.* He admired Ernie so much at Berlin, * The late Mr. John Mitchell, the librarian of Old Bond Street. 276 PRINCESS ALICE. that he said he would send him a Scotch dress, and 1 could not refuse. It is rather small as it is, and I hope that you will still give him one, as from his Grandmama it would be doubly valuable. Louis has arrived safely at his destination — Don- jeux ; and we both feel the separation very much after having had the happiness of being together again. The Paris battles are too dreadful, and the end seems some way off yet. May 27th. My thoughts cannot leave unfortunate Paris ! What horrors, and enacted so close by in the centre of the civilized world ! It seems incredible ; and what a lesson for those who wish to learn by it ! Darmstadt, June 8th. Louise and Lome are just gone, and it rains and blows, and is dreadful. Their visit was so pleasant, so gemilthlich, and I think Louise looks well and happy. She had much to tell of their journey, which seems to have been very interesting. I could show them almost nothing, as the weather was so bad. We three went yesterday evening to my pa- rents-in-law, who were most kind to them, as they always are to all my relations. Their short stay was a great ^r^^/ pleasure to me, so cut off from home as I have been since three long years. Louis will be here in a few days, and we go to- gether to Berlin for four days ; Louis insists on my accompanying him. On the 24th the entry of the troops will be here. Seeheim, June 14th. * * * I am so glad that the poor Emperor A T HOME AND A T WORK. 2// and Empress are so kindly treated. They deserve to be well used by England, for the Emperor did so much to brino- France and England tocrether. How shamefully the French treat them, and speak of them, is not to be told ; for the French consider themselves blameless, and always betrayed by oth- ers, whom they had made almost their gods of, as long as all went well. Dear Frittie is getting better — principally his looks, but the illness is not overcome yet. I have been so anxious about him. The country here is more beautiful than ever, and country air and flow- ers are a great enjoyment. Every little walk is up and down hill, little brooks, rocks, small green val- leys, fine woods, etc. I have not lived here since 1 865, when Ella was a baby. The children are be- side themselves with pleasure at the pretty country and the scrambling walks, but above all at the wild flowers, in which they are getting quite learned. I find them in a book for them, and even Ernie knows some names, and never calls them wrong. All my children are great lovers of nature, and I develop this as much as I can. It makes life so rich, and they can never feel dull anywhere, if they know to seek and find around them the thousand beauties and wonders of nature. They are very happy and contented, and always see, the less people have the less they want, and the greater is the enjoyment of that which they have. I bring my children up as simply and with as few wants as I can, and, above all, teach them to help themselves and others, so as to become independent. Darmstadt, June 20th. I write at the dinner-table, whilst the children fin- ish dinner, as I have not found a spare moment yet, 278 PRINCESS ALICE. and the rest of my afternoon is taken up with the preparations for to-morrow. The Empress Augusta has just been here for three hours, quite dead-tired with all she went through. Thousand thanks for your dear letter received be- fore our departure for Potsdam ! Our journey was dreadful. We left in the evening, and were to have been here at 1 1 a.m., and through the irregularity of the trains we only got here at four in the afternoon. I am quite done up. The fatigues at Berlin were in- cessant. Any thing more grand, more imposing or touching and erhcbend [elevating] than the entry of the troops in Berlin I never saw. It was a wonderful sight to drive for three-quarters of an hour through rows of French cannon! The decorations were so artistic, so handsome, and the enthusiasm of the dense crowds quite enormous. I am glad to have been there ; it will be a thing to recollect. The old Emperor, surrounded by the many princes and by his great generals, looked so noble riding at the head of his glorious troops. Deputations of all the German troops were there. It was very hot, and we had to drive every day to Berlin, and back in the evening. Alas! it is rainy here, and the town is so beauti- fully decorated ; three large triumphal arches, and the houses covered with garlands and flags. I found the dear children well, though rather pale from the heat. Louis left again this morning, but after to-morrow remains here for good, which will indeed be a pleas- ure after such endless separations. Darmstadt, June 27th. * * * To-day Aunt Marie of Russia and her A T HOME AND A T WORK. 2yg children were here. Aunt Marie looks thinner than ever, but well; and Marie dear and nice, with such a kind fresh face, -so simple and girlish. She gives her brothers music lessons during the journey, which she is very proud of. She is very fond of children, and of a quiet country life — that is the ideal she looks for. The Emperor of Russia comes here on the 5th, to join Aunt Marie at Petersthal. Louis' work is incessant — the selling off of horses, the changing garrisons of the regiments, the new forma- tion of our division, causes almost more work than the Mobilmachung [mobilization]. The entry was very beautiful : the decorations of the town most tasteful ; not a house or the smallest street which was not covered with garlands, flags, and emblems. There were large groups of the captured guns, and the names of the battles on shields around. Unfor- tunately, it poured nearly all the time, and we were quite drenched. I had the five children in my car- riage, and Irene gave wreaths to her godfathers of the cavalry brigade. Two days ago we gave a large military dinner, and have several soirees of that sort to give before we can go into the country, which I am longing for. We shall probably go to Seeheim, as the summer seems too damp for Kranichstein. The middle of Aufjust we shall ofo to Blanken- berofhe, near Ostend, as the doctors wish sea-bathine for Louis, and sea air for me and for some of the children, which is very necessary to set us up before Cfoinof to Scotland. We want to remain one or two days and one night in London. We require a few things, which make a stay necessary. If we might be at Balmoral on the loth, as Louis' birthday is on the I 2th, would that suit you "^ Please let me know in time if you think our plans 28o PRINCESS ALICE. good. This will enable us to settle when to go to Blankenbero-he, as we can't be there lonofer than three weeks. How I look forward to seeing you again, and to come home once more ! It is so kind of you to let us bring the children. The arrangement of the rooms will do perfectly, and we don't care how we are put up, and above all things don't wish to be in the way. The weather is horrid — rain and wind incessantly — after having been tremendously hot. These sud- den changes upset every one, and Frittie has had a very slight return of his illness. August 13th. * * * The newest news is, that my nice excel- lent Marie Grancy is going to marry. She will be such a loss to me. These last years she has been so useful, so amiable, and I shall miss her dreadfully. She is going to marry Major von Hesse, who was with us in Encrland the last time, and the weddine is to be in September. As he has been ill in conse- quence of the war, they will go to Italy and spend the winter there. We leave at eight to-morrow morning, reach Cologne at one o'clock, and wait there till ten in the evening, when we continue our journey and reach Blankenberghe at eight next morning. Will you kindly send a gentleman to Gravesend, who can re- main with us in London, as we are quite alone ? Uncle George, Aunt Cambridge, and Mary dined with us at Frankfort two days ago. Mary I had not seen for three years ; she was looking very handsome. Blankenberghe, August 17th. Only two words to say that we arrived safe and AT HOME AND AT WORK. 28 1 well here yesterday after a very hot journey. The hotel is on the beach where we sit all day ; there are no walks or 'any thing- save the beach, and no trees. .Our rooms are very small and not very clean ; but the heavenly sea air and the wind refresh one, and the sands are very long. One can ride on donkeys, which enchants young and old children. Every one bathes together, and one has to take a little run before the waves cover one. We bathed with the three girls this morning, but I felt quite shy, for all the people sit round and look on, and there are great numbers of people here. Our children play about with others and dig in the sand. Frittie sleeps so v/ell since he has been here ; his color is besfinninof to return. We have one small sitting-room, which is our dining-room, and Louis' dressing-room. I was so sad and upset at taking leave of my dear Marie Grancy the other day ; a kind true friend and companion has she been to me these nine years, and during the war she was quite invaluable to me. I hope she will be as happy as she deserves to be. Buckingham Palace, September loth. The pleasure of seeing your dear handwriting again has been so great ! Thank God that you are going on well. I do feel so much for )ou, and for all you have had to suffer in every way ! I trust entire quiet and rest of mind and body, and any little atten- tion that I may be able to offer for your comfort, will make the autumn of real benefit for your health. How I do look forward to seeing you again, I can't say. ''^ '■' "'•■ We propose leaving the evening of the 13th. Bertie and Uncle Georcre have arranged for our going to Aldershot on Monday and Tuesday, which 282 PRINCESS ALICE. interests Louis above all things, and I fancied this arrangement would suit you best. The journey has quite cured Frittie, without any medicine, and the heat is over. *^ * * I took Victoria and Ella to the Exhibi- tion, and what enchanted Ella most was a policeman, who was, as she said, " so very kind " in keeping the crowd off. It reminded me of " Susy Pusy," which dear Papa used to tease me with as a child. We dined and lunched with Bertie, who had only just arrived, and is gone again. Dear Arthur of course I have not seen. Bram's Hill Park Camp, Cavalry Brigade, 2D Division, September 12th. In Bertie's tent I write these few lines to thank you in Louis' name and my own a thousand times for your dear kind letter. Every loving word is so precious to us, and the presents you so kindly gave Louis enchanted him. The pin, unfortunately, did not arrive. How I regret each time I hear you speak of your illness ! I have been so anxious about you. Uncle Louis and my parents-in-law, in their telegram of to-day, enquire after you. We have had two such interesting days ; the country too lovely, each day in a quite different part. We accompanied Uncle George, and in this way have seen the two Divisions, and through sleeping here will be enabled to see the third Division to- morrow before returning to town. I saw dear Arthur yesterday. He rode with me all the time, and to-day we met him marching with his company. How I have enjoyed seeing your splendid troops again, I can't tell you ; but I shall reserve all news till we meet. AT HOME AND AT V/ORK. 283 Louis thanks you again and again for your kind- ness, and only regrets not having seen you himself, but is very grateful that we were allowed to stay a few days at Buckingham Palace, through which we were enabled to come here, which to him as a sol- dier is of the very greatest interest. Bertie is full of his work, and I think it interests him immensely. He has charming officers about him, to help and show him what to do. To our great disappointment we did not see the 42d Highlanders, the " Black Watch " to-day ; but yesterday we saw the Agyle- shire 91st Highlanders, who gave Louise the present. Bertie lent me a charming little horse, but the ground is dreadful, and not having ridden for so long, and being on horseback so many hours, makes me feel quite stiff. DuNROETN Castle, ) Sutherland, October 19th. j I wish your telegram had brought me better news of you. I really can't bear to think of you suffering, and so much alone. I feel it quite wrong to have left you, and my thoughts and wishes are continually with you, and distract my attention from all I see here. I can't tell you how much I feel for you at being so helpless. It is such a trial to any one so active as yourself ; but your trial must be drawing to a close, and you will be rewarded in the end, I am sure, by feeling perhaps even better and stronger than you did before all your troubles. I was nearly sick in the train, which is the slowest I was ever in in my life, and was unable to go to dinner ; but a long walk by the sea this morning has quite set me up in spite of the extraordinary warmth. Sandringham, November 9th. It is the first time since eleven years that I have 284 PRINCESS ALICE. Spent Bertie's birthday with him, and though we are only three of our own family together, still that is better than nothing, and makes it seem more like birthday. Bertie and Alix are so kind, and give us so warm a welcome, showing how they like having us, that it feels quite home. Indeed I pray earnestly that God's blessing may rest on him, and that he may be guided to do what is wise and right, so that he may tide safely through the anxious times that are before him, and in which we now live. They are both charming hosts, and all the party suit well together. The Westminsters and Brownlows are here ; Lady B. is so very handsome. We joined the shooting party for luncheon, and the last beats out to-day and yesterday ; and the weather is beautiful, though cold — a very bracing air, like Scotland. 1872. The Princess did not return to Darmstadt with her children till the end of January, passing through Brussels on her way. Prince Louis was invested with the order of the Black Eagle at the " Kron- ungs- und Ordensfest " at Berlin. Many of their re- lations visited the Prince and Princess during the early part of the year. On the 6th of June another daughter was born, and she was christened on the ist of July, the anni- versary of her parents' wedding-day. Her names were Victoria Alix Helena Louise Beatrice. The sponsors were the Prince and Princess of Wales, the Cesarewitch and Cesarewna, Princess Beatrice, the A T HOME AND A T WORK. 285 Duchess of Cambridge, and the Landgravine of Hesse. ^ In August the Crown Prince of Prussia paid his first visit to Darmstadt since the war, and met with a most loyal and hearty reception. In consequence of the death of the Princess Hohenlohe-Langenburg, the beloved half-sister of the Queen, in September, the Prince and Princess went to Baden to be present at the last sad cere- mony, and to see their beloved aunt borne to her rest. A fortnight later the general assembly of the various German societies for charitable purposes held its first meetincr at Darmstadt. All these societies, including the " Ladies' Union," founded by Princess Alice, had, in 1869, joined themselves together to form one great body. Dur- ing the year 1872 the Princess added another Insti- tution to those she had already called into existence — viz., an Orphan Asylum. A special committee of ladies was at the head of it, to watch over it, and also, if necessary, to advise and help those poor orphans who had been boarded out in private families at the expense of the parish. This institution has aleady proved most successful, thanks to the readi- ness with which the authorities met all Princess Alice's wishes. The general assembly at Darmstadt — the " Frauen- tag " or " Ladies' Diet," as it was called — distin- guished itself, not only by the extremely discreet 286 PJilNCESS ALICE. and practical manner in which it carried out all the many different branches of business which it had un- dertaken, but also by the presence of several re- markable persons interested in its aims and objects, such as Madame Marie Simon, the founder and head of the Institution for training nurses at Dresden, and three English ladies. Miss Mary Carpenter, Miss Florence Hill, and Miss Winkworth. The subjects treated of at the general assembly were the admission of women to the Post Office and Telegraph Service ; the results of the working of F. Froebel's principles for the further employment of women ; of " Kindergarten " ; the finding of proper localities for the exhibition and sale of women's handiwork of all kinds ; nursing: as a branch of female industry ; the provision of better schools for girls, and what had been done, and was doing, in Eno-land for female education and at similar institu- tions. The Princess followed all the discussions with the keenest interest. She received all the members of the different societies at her own palace, and for each she had a kind and encourasfinof word. None of those present will ever forget the sym- pathy and encouragement they met with from the Princess. She not only advised and suggested things, but herself took the initiative in any impor- tant question which came under her notice. The general assembly did great credit to itself in the eyes of Germany, and, indeed, of other countries as well, AT HOME AND AT WORK. 28/ and its members were encouraged to still further exertions. • The Princess herself was full of new plans for further eood works. At the beofinnine of November Prince and Princess Louis were present at the un- veiling of a monument erected to the memory of the Hessian soldiers who fell in the war of 1870. The Princess herself placed some wreaths at its base. The 14th of December, the anniversary of the Prince Consort's death, the Princess spent with her sister the Crown Princess of Prussia, who had come to Darmstadt from Carlsruhe for the purpose. Darmstadt, January 21st. * * * Louis returns to-morrow from Berlin. He was the first to be invested by the Emperor, and has met with great kindness. He was very glad to have been there with dear Arthur, who seems to please every one. February 5th. * * * It is a great pleasure to have dear Arthur here. He is so amiable, civil, and nice, and takes interest in all he sees, and is so pleasant to have in the house. His visit will be very short, as he gives up two days to go to Baden. We gave small suppers on two evenings for Arthur, and yesterday evening a celebrated, most excellent violinist played quite as well as Joachim : a friend of his, and a pupil of Spohr's. This after- noon he is going to play some of Bach's celebrated sonatas with and to me. Arthur enjoys music very much, and keeps up his playing. There is a dance at Uncle Alexander's to-night, on Wednesday a Court ball, and on Friday one at 283 PRINCESS ALICE. my parents-in-law. I can't stand the beat at all of an evening, and the rooms are very hot. Louis, who has an awful cold, took Arthur to see the bar- racks, as all military things give him pleasure. It is heavenly sunny weather, having been quite dark and foggy all day yesterday. April 20th. ^' * * Louis has been in Upper Hesse the last four days s\\ooimg Azterhcihne, but as yet unsuccess- fully. My mother-in-law is very grateful for your kind message, and is better, though weak. She has had a narrow escape from fever. Frittie has again endless bruises, with lumps, as Leo used to have; but he is taking iron, as Sir William [Jenner] wished, and is strong and rosy and well otherwise. I trust he may outgrow this. June 17th. Many thanks for your dear letter and kind wishes for the birth of our baby ''• — a nice litde thing, like Ella, only smaller and with finer features, though the nose promises to be long. '^' ''' * Kind Dr. Hofmeister was most attentive ; and of course having him was far pleasanter than not, and we owe you great thanks for having sent him. Mrs. Clarke has been all one could wish. Louis wrote as soon as he could, but this last week he has only been home just before his dinner, and was so tired that he invariably fell asleep. He has gone out at six, returning at twelve, and has had to be out before four in the afternoon, returning at eight. He is away again to-day. Until the 1 5th of September his duty will be important, and he has all the office work besides. It is double * Princess Alix, born on the 6th of June. A T HOME AND A T WORIC. 289 this year to what it usually is, as all people and things are new since the war. How sad the k)6s of those two poor children is,"^* and the sweet litde " bairnie " of three ! The un- fortunate mother to lose two in so dreadful a way ! I am sure it touched Beatrice much to see the poor little one ; and in a child death so often loses every thing" that is painful. We think of calling- our litde girl " Alix " (Alice they pronounce too dreadfully in German) " Helena Louise Beatrice," and, if Beatrice may, we would much like to have her as godmother. Darmstadt, June 24th. * * * "We both felt so truly for you when we heard of dear Dr. Macleod's death, knowing what a kind and valued friend of yours he was, and how fate seems to take one friend after another, and before aee can claim its rieht. He indeed deserves his rest, for he did so much good in his life ! I feel rather weaker than usual this time, and sit- ting and walking, though only a few steps, tries me a good deal. I was out for half an hour yesterday, and I think the air will do me good. Louis left at half-past five this morning, and v/ill be back by seven, I hope, this evening ; to-morrow the same. I will add Vicky's name to baby's others, as you propose ; and " Alix " we gave for " Alice," as they murder my name here : " Aliice " they pronounce it, so we thought " Alix " could not so easily be spoilt. * Two children who were carried away by a " spate " while playincT at Monaltrie IJurn, near Balmoral (iiih of June, 1872), and swept into the river Dee and drowned. Sec " More Leaves from a Journal of a Life in the Highlands," p. 156 et seq. 290 PH IN CESS ALICE. Uncle Alexander is coming back shortly, and says the Empress is not to return to Russia this winter, and will be sent to Italy for the whole winter. The heat has been quite dreadful ; there is a little air to-day, though. August 14th. * * * Baby is like Ella, only smaller features, and still darker eyes with very black lashes, and reddish-brown hair. She is a sweet, merry little person, always laughing, with a deep dimple in one cheek just like Ernie. We are going to Frankfort to-day to give Uncle Georofe and Fritz Strelitz a luncheon in our Palais there. Helene Renter comes to us for a month to- morrow as lady. I hope your Edinburgh visit will go off well. You have never lived in Holyrood since 1S61, have you? How I shall think of you at dear Balmoral, and this time capable of enjoying it — not like last time, when you had to suffer so much, and were unable to do any thing. It quite spoiled our visit to see you an invalid. Remember me' to all old friends there — to Brown's kind old mother, and any who ask after us. I shall think of you on dear Grandmama's birth- day. She is never forgotten by any of us, and lives on as a dearly-cherished memory of all that was good and loving, and so kind. My children have her pic- ture in their room, and I often tell them of her. Kranichstein, August 20th. I am very grateful for your telegrams from Edin- burgh, and for Flora's [MacDonald] letter. It in- terests me so much to know what you did there, and I am very glad all went off so well. The people will have been too delighted to have had you in AT HOME AND AT WORK. 29 1 their midst again, and I am sure you enjoyed the beauty of your fine northern capital anew after not havine seen it for so longf a time. Beatrice seems deho"hted with what she saw. I recollect those many interesting and beautiful spots so well.* The 1 8th was the anniversary of the dreadful battle of Gravelotte, which cost so many lives, to our division especially. We drove into town to the military church, which was full of officers and men, at half-past seven in the morning, and thought much of the friends and acquaintances in their distant graves, and of the desolate homes, until that day so bright. My heart felt too full when we were singing Eiii feste Burg, and I had my husband at my side, whom the Almighty had graciously spared to my children and myself. Gratitude seems barely enough to express the intense depth of what I feel when I think of that tinie, and how again and again I long to give all and all to my good dear Louis and to our children, for he is all that is good and true and pure. * * * The children were much distressed at the sad fate of my poor little bullfinch, who piped beautifully. Louis had caught an owl and put it in a wooden sort of a cage in the room where my bird was. In the night it broke the bars and got loose and tore the bullfinch's tail out, and the poor little thing died in consequence. Of our quiet country life there is little to tell. We are a good deal out, always with our little people, their pets — dogs, cats, ponies, donkeys ; it is rather like a menagerie. ScHLOSS Kranichstein, September 17th. * * * Qpj Sunday the Moriers with their chil- * For an account of this visit see " More Leaves from a Journal," p. 1C4 et seq. 292 PRINCESS ALICE. dren were with us for the day. He looked so white and reduced, walks on crutches, but retains, as always, his spirits and his lively interest for all things. He is a kind, warm-hearted man, to whom we are both attached. Alice feels the loss of her poor sister deeply, and says her father has been so cut up about it. We took them to races close by, and feared we should be upset, the ground being very heavy and uneven, and I was in terror for Mr. Morier, who was in my carriage. On the 9th there is a large meeting here of the different associations existing throughout Germany for the betterinof of women's education and social position (of the middle class especially with regard to trade). Some English ladies are coming, some Swiss and Dutch. It will last four days, and be very fatiguing. The programme I arranged with my two committees here and the gentlemen at Berlin, and they wanted to force me to preside ; but for so large an assemblage — to me nearly all strangers — I postively refused. I do that in my own Associa- tions, but not where there are so many strangers, who all want to talk, and all to cross purposes. It is difficult enough to keep one's own people in order when they disagree. I hope and trust I have pre- vented all exaggerated and unfeminine views being brought up, which to me are dreadful. These Associations, if not reasonably led, tend too easily to the ridiculous. My Associations take a great deal of my time and thought, and require a good amount of study. I hope and trust that what we are doing here is the right thing. We have already had some satisfactory results in the class of the workwomen, and in the reform of the schools ; but there are many A T HOME AND A T WORK. 293 open questions yet, which I hope this meeting, with others who work in the same field, may help us to solve. Will you look through the programme? It would please me so much, if I thought, you took a little interest in my endeavors here in a very small way to follow in a slight degree part of dear Papa's great works for the good of others. The meetincr at Berlin seems to have orone off very well, and has pleased all Germans, who hope for a consolidation of peace — so necessary to them. We have an entire change of Ministry at Darm- stadt, the first since 1848, which fills all with hopes for an improvement in all the affairs of the Grand Duchy. Kranichstein, September 25th. * * * y4// sympathize with you, and feel what a loss to you darling Aunf^^ must be — how great the gap in your life, how painful the absence of that sympathy and love which united her life and yours so closely. Darling, kind Mama, I feel so acutely for you, that my thoughts are incessantly with you, and my prayers for comfort and support to be granted you in the heavy trial are warm indeed. You have borne so many hard losses with courage and resignation, that for darling Aunt's sake you will do so again, and knowing her at rest and peace will in time reconcile you to the loss — all the more as her passing from this world to another was so touchingly peaceful. Dear Augusta [Stanley] wrote to me, which was a great consolation, and we intend going to Baden to pay our last token of respect and love. * The Queen's half-sister, Feodorc, Princess of Hohenlohe-Langcnburg, who died on the 23d of September, 1872, at Baden-Baden. 294 PRINCESS ALICE. Darmstadt, October 13th, * * * A few words about our doines here may be of interest to you. The meeting went off well, was very large, the subjects discussed were to the purpose and important, and not one word of the emancipated political side of the question was touched upon by any one. Schools (those of the lower, middle, and higher classes) for girls was the principal theme ; the employment of women for post and telegraph offices, etc.; the improvement neces- sary in the education of nursery-maids, and the knowledge of mothers in the treatment of little chil- dren ; the question of nurses and nursing institutes. The committees of the fifteen Associations met Wedesday afternoon, and in the evening thirteen of the members came to us to supper. The public meeting on the following day lasted from nine to two with a small interruption ; a com- mittee meeting in the afternoon ; and that evening all the members and guests came to us — nearly fifty in number. The following day the meetings lasted even longer, and the English ladies were kind enough to speak — only think, old Miss Carpenter, on all relating to women's work in England (she is our guest here). Her account of the Queen's Insti- tute at Dublin was most interesting. Miss Hill (also our guest), about the boarding-out system for orphans. Miss C. Winkworth, about higher educa- tion in England. She mentioned also the new in- stitution to which Louise now belongs, and is a o member of it herself. The ladies all spoke very well ; the German ones remarkably so. There was a good deal of work to finish after- ward, and a good many members to see. They came from all parts of Germany — many kind-hearted, A T HOME A AD A T WORK. 295 noble, self denying women. The presence of the English ladies — above all, of one such as Miss Car- penter, who has done such good works for the refor- mation of convicts — greatly enhanced the importance of the meeting, and her great experience has been of value to us all. She means still to give a lecture on India and the state of the native schools there, before leaving us. I have still so much work in hand, that I fear my letter is hurried and ill- written, but I hope you will kindly excuse this. To-morrow I am taking Miss Carpenter to all our different schools, that she may see hov/ the different systems in use work. Some are good, but none particularly so ; there is much to improve. Louis is gone to Mayence to-day for the inaugu- ration of the Memorial which the town has erected to the memory of dear excellent Waldemar Holstein, for so many years its beloved Governor. Darmstadt, October 24th. You must indeed miss dear Aunt much, and feel your thoughts drawn to her, whose precious intercourse was such a solace and comfort to you. It is nice for you to have Louise a little to your- self === ^- * You ask, if my mother-in-law talks with me about the different woman's work in which I am interested. Of course she does. We are so intimate together, that even where we differ in opinion we yet talk of every thing freely, and her opinion is of the greatest value to me. She had ever been a most kind, true, and loving mother, whom I respect and love more and more. She was much pleased and inter- ested in the success of the meeting, but is of course 296 PJ?INCESS ALICE. as adverse as myself to all extreme views on such subjects. I have joined to my Nursing" Institute an Associa- tion for watching over the orphans who are boarded- out by the State into families, where some poor children are unhappy and ill-used. The use of such meetings as this one was consists mainly in the interchange of experience made in the different branches in other places, which it is impossible to carry on by correspondence. The schools are entirely different throughout Ger- many — good and indifferent ; and those here do not count among the best, as every thing, through the long misrule of the late Government, is not what it ought to be. Uncle Louis has a new Ministry now, which gives every one cause for hope. Darmstadt, November 3d. * "* * The weather is awful here ; the wind sounds in the house as if one were at sea. This article was sent me the other day, and though I half fear s^^mmg 7inbeschciden [overbold], yet, as you spoke of your feelings about women's meetings the other day, I venture to send it. Ella is writing to you herself to thank you for the lovely bracelet, which gave me as much pleasure as it did her. To think that she isalready eight! She is handsomer than she was, and a clear child. * * * They all give me pleasure, dear children, though of course they have as many faults as others ; but they are truthful and contented, and very affectionate. Having them much with me, watching and guiding their education — which, through our quiet and regular life, is possible — I am able to know and understand their different characters, for not one is like the other. A T HOME AND A T WORK. 297 Darmstadt, November 12th. * * * We have the same weather here which you seem to hav«, which for our long journey was not pleasant. We took nearly twelve hours going, and as much returning from Metz. For the inaugu- ration itself the weather held up. The roads were dreadful, and the wide plateau looked dreary and sad — dotted all over with graves, like an enormous churchyard. The memorial is a dead lion in bronze, on a plain pedestal, bearing an inscription on black marble in front, and at the back all the names. Deputations of officers and men were present, besides the generals, etc., from Metz. The clergyman of the di- vision read the prayers, preached a short and touch- ing sermon, and the band played a chorale. Louis spoke a few words, ending with the usual " Hoch" for the Emperor and Grand Duke. I then laid some wreaths at the foot of the Memorial from Louis' parents and ourselves, and we drove back to Metz across the different battlefields. The villages are all built up again, and re-inhabited, so that few traces of the dreadful struggle remain. * * * The Empress of Russia wrote the other day that the alliance with Marie * of Mecklenburg is quite impossible, as she won't change her religion. I hope all other German Princesses will follow her example. Darmstadt, December 12th. For the 14th I write a few words. From year to year they can but express the same ; the grief at the loss of such a father, such a man, grows with me, * Daughter of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin. Subsequently she did marry the Grand Duke Vhidamir of Russia, as she was allowed not to change her religion. This was the first time such a thing was permitted in Russia. 298 FJilNCESS ALICE. and leaves a gap and a want that nothing on earth can ever fill up. The deep, intense sympathy for what you, my poor dear Mama, went through then and since, in consequence of your bereavement, remains as vivid as ever. God heard our prayers, and sustained you, and through the healing hand of time softened your grief, and retained you for us, who were too young and too numerous to stand alone ! That our good sweet Alix should have been spared this terrible grief, when this time last year it seemed so imminent, fills my heart with gratitude for her dear sake, as for yours, his children, and ours. That time is as indelibly fixed on my memory as that of 1 86 1, when the witnessing of your grief rent my heart so deeply. The 14th will now be a day of mixed recollections and feelings to us — a day hal- lowed in our family, when one great spirit ended his work on earth — though his work can never die, and generations will grow up and call his name blessed — and when another was left to fulfil his duty and mission, God grant, for the welfare of his own family and of thousands.* I have not time to write to dearest Bertie and Alix to-day ; and as I love to think of them with you on the 14th, so I would ask you to let them share these lines full of sympathy for them, letting a remem- brance of mCy who suffered with them, mingle with your united prayers and thanks on this solemn day ! My little Fritz is at length better, but white and thin, in consequence of his illness. Christmas Day. Your dear presents gave me so much pleasure ; I * Who would have thought that only six years later the Princess herself was to rejoin lier father on the same day ? A T HOME AND A T WORK. 299 thank you again and again for them. The precious souvenir of dear Aunt, and my Ernie's picture de- light me. I assnre you, nothing has given me more pleasure this Christmas. Let me also thank you, in Louis' and the children's names (meanwhile, until they do so themselves), for your kind gifts to them. It makes us all so happy and grateful, to be always so kindly remembered. The boys were well enough to enjoy Christmas, though rather pale and pulled — above all, sweet Ernie. We gave all our servants presents — the whole household and stable — under the Christmas-tree, which we made for the children ; and when the tree is divided, the children of all our servants come and share it with ours. It keeps the household as a family, which is so important. We have fifty people to give to ! Dear Beatrice's wishes (cards) pleased the children very much, but Frittie lamented for a letter from Auntie "for Frittie." He talks quite well now. On Saturday we shall go for the day to Vicky. I don't like leaving the boys for longer yet. I am so glad Vicky gave such a flattering account of baby. She is quite the personification of her nickname " Sunny " — much like Ella, but a smaller head, and livelier, with Ernie's dimple and expression. TRIALS. 1873-1877. " May the hour of trial and grief bring its blessing with it, and not have come in vain ! The day passes so quickly, when one can do good and make others happy — and one leaves always so much undone." (August 2, 1873.) 1873. THIS year began brightly and happily to the Prince and Princess, for little Prince Fritz, whose health had often given rise to serious anxiety, seemed strong-er and better. In March the Princess at last was able to carry out her long-cherished wish to visit Italy. She travelled incognita, accompanied by Miss Hardinge and Hofrath Ruland. The jour- ney was made in a comparatively short time, but was thoroughly successful. The Princess travelled from Darmstadt by Munich and the Brenner Pass to Flor- ence, where she spent three days, and from there went straight on to Rome. During her stay in the " eternal city " she em- ployed her mornings in visiting the many beautiful picture-galleries, the churches, and the ruins of ancient Rome. In the afternoons she made longer excursions into the neighborhood, visiting the more distant churches in the Campagna, as well as the 300 TRIALS. 301 celebrated villas of Albani, Liidovisi, Borghese, etc. She used to spend her evenings in talking over and discussing all the objects of interest she had seen during the day. The Princess with her wonderful power of observation was able to do a large amount of sight-seeing in a comparatively short time. She was accompanied by Monsignore Howard (now Car- dinal Howard) over St, Peter's ; and he showed her many interesting parts of this glorious edifice, which in general are never shown to Protestants. At the " Farnesina," the private palace of Count Bermudez, she was received and conducted over it by the Count himself. The ruins of Rome which interested the Princess the most were those which dated from the time of the first Christians, as far back as the early mediaeval period, the catacombs of " San Callisto," and the curious church of" San Clemente." Amonest the ceremonies of the " Holy Week " the Princess was gready struck by " The Lamentations," whilst others made her ask, as all Protestants do, how the pure simple Christian religion could possibly be so misrepresented. After attending all the grand cere- monies of the Church of Rome, the quiet service at the German Embassy made a most happy and peace- ful impression on the Princess. She visited the Pope, Pius IX., who received her with his usual winning kindness.* She also went to the Ouirinal to pay her respects to King Victor Emanuel, and to the Crown Princess of Italy, Princess Margherita. * He said to the Princess : " La benediction d'un vieillard fait touiours du bien." 302 PRINCESS ALICE. The two Princesses drove together through Rome on the occasion of the celebration of its " birthday," and witnessed the illumination of the Capitol, Forum, and Colosseum. On the 13th of April the Princess made a brief excursion to Sorrento by way of Naples, where her father-in-law and the Empress ot Russia were stay- ing. On the 24th of April she left with her suite for Florence, travelling by way of Perugia and Lake Thrasimene, through the valley of the Arno. As she had but little time, she was only able to visit the galleries of the Uffizi and Pitti Palaces, the tombs of the Medici in San Lorenzo, the Convent of St. Mark, the Cathedral, the Church of Santa Croce, and the " Museo Nazionale." The Princess left Italy on the 28th April, reaching Darmstadt on the 2d of May. Her journey had been one of thorough enjoyment, and she felt deeply grateful that she had at last been able to see with her own eyes those glorious works of art, which from her childhood she had only been able to picture dimly to herself. The joy of her reunion with her family was, alas ! not to be of lonof duration. Prince Louis had been obliged to leave Darmstadt early on the morning of the 29th of May to inspect the troops in Upper Hesse, leaving the Princess still in bed, exhausted from the great fatigue of her Italian journey. The two little Princes came to wish her "good-morning," and by her wish were left in her room by the nurse. TRIALS. 303 The children soon began to play, as was their wont, running in and out of the room into the adjacent one, and looking from one window and then from another. Prince Ernest having run into the next room, the Princess followed him, leaving Prince Fritz in her bedroom. During her almost momen- tary absence he fell out of the window on to the stone terrace below. Whether he had leaned too far out of it and overbalanced himself, or whether in runnino- fast throusfh the room to the window to look for his brother he could not stop himself and fell from it, no one actually knows. He was picked up in- sensible, and died a few hours afterward in the arms of his distracted mother. Effusion of blood on the brain caused by the fall ended that young and bright little life. The loss of this unusually-gifted and be- loved child was a blow to the mother from which she never recovered. Her married life had till then been such a happy one, that this first sorrow came on her with redoubled force. On the evening of Whitsunday, June ist, the be- loved little Prince was taken to his last resting-place, at the Rosenhohe (the Grand Ducal Mausoleum), his parents and sisters and brother being present. It was very long before the Princess at all recovered from the terrible shock of the death of her child, though the sympathy shown to her by her family and friends — indeed, by all — greatly comforted and helped her. In the autumn the Prince and Princess went to 304 PRINCESS ALICE. Heiden in Appenzell for a little change. From there they paid a visit to the Prince of Hohenzollern at his castle of the Weinburg. At the end of No- vember they went to England with their three youngest children, and remained there till the 23d of December, when they returned to Darmstadt. Darmstadt, January 12th, * * * We were both much shocked to hear of the death of the Emperor Napoleon, and I must say grieved ; personally he wasso,amiable,andshe is much to be pitied. That he should die an exile in Eng- land and, as Louis Phillippe did, is most striking. In England the sympathy shown must touch the poor Empress, and, as I telegraphed, we should be so grateful to you, if you would kindly be the medium through which both of us would like to express to her how much we feel for her. How proud you must ever be, in feeling that your country is the one always able to offer a home and hospitality for those driven away from their own countries ! England is before all others in that ; and its warm sympathy for those who are in misfortune is such a generous feel- Fannie Baillie's Victoria is such a nice girl. She comes to our children every Saturday, and is not above playing at dolls with them, though she is so much older. There are two rather nice little English girls, daughters of the chaplin here, who come to them. February ist. If any one will feel with us, I know you will do so most. Since three days, with an interruption of one day, poor Frittie has been bleeding incessantly from a slight cut on his ear, which was nearly healed. TRIALS. 305 Since yesterday evening we cannot stop it. All the usual remedies were used, but as yet unavailing. Just now the place has been touched again with caustic and tighdy bound, after we had with great trouble got rid of the quantity of dried blood from his hair, ear, neck, etc. He is horrified at the sight of so much blood, but shows great strength as yet in spite of so great a loss. He is of course very irritable, and, as he must not scream, one has to do whatever he wishes, which will spoil him dreadfully. I own I was much upset when I saw that he had this tendency to bleed, and the anxiety for the future, even if he gets well over this, will remain for years to come. All have their trials, one or another, and, please God, we shall bear whatever is sent without complaining. To see one's own child suffer is for a mother a great trial. With what pleasure one would change places with the little one, and bear its pain ! February 6th, * * * In the summer Fritz had a violent attact of dysentery, which was so prevalent at Darm- stadt, and off and on for two months it continued, until Scodand stopped it ; and this illness made him sensitive and delicate. * * === What has caused him such great suffer- ing has been that, what with the use of caustic, the tight bandaging and the iron, a quantity of small eatherinos formed on his cheek and neck, causinof such an amount of pain that he could not remain in bed or anywhere quiet for the two first days and nights. Now they are drying off, the itching is such that he don't know what to do with himself, and we have the greatest difficulty in keeping hini from rub- bing or scratching himself. The want of sleep through pain, etc., has excited him very much, so that he has 306 FHINCESS ALICE. been very difficult to manage. The bandages of course cannot be removed, and great care will be taken when they are removed, lest bleeding should re-commence. He has been out twice a day as usual all along, and his skin never quite lost its pinkness and mottled appearance ; all of which are signs that he has good blood and to spare, else he would look worse and have shown weakness, which after all he did not. -^ * * He speaks well for his age, and is, alas ! very wild, so that it will be impossible to keep him from having accidents. * "^^ * * * * I have been playing some lovely things (very difficult) of Chopin lately, which I know you would admire. Darmstadt, February 19th, My best thanks for 3^our dear letter ! That I for- got to thank you at once for dear Grandmama's very beautiful print * came from my having the litho- graph of that picture in my room always before me, and, though the print far surpasses it, I am so fond of the lithograph, that I forgot the print at the moment I was writing to you. Before that dear picture, the painting of which I recollect so well, my children often sit, and I tell them of her who was and ever will be so inexpressibly dear to us all. In the school- room, in my sitting-room, in the nursery, there is, with the pictures of you and dear Papa, always one of dear Grandmama, and, in my room and the school- room, the Duke of Kent also. My sitting-room has only prints and lithographs, all Winterhalters, of the family : you and Papa, your receiving the Sacrament at the Coronation, Raphael's * A private plate, engraved for the Queen by the late Mr. Francis Holl, from a picture by Winterhalter. TRIALS. IQ'J " Disputa" and " Bella Jardinierre," and the lovely litde engraving of yourself from Winterhalter's pic- ture in Papa's room at Windsor.* Vicky is coming here on Wednesday. The Grand Duke of Weimar has kindly allowed Mr. Ruland to join us as cicerone : which for galleries, etc., is very necessary, and we take no courier. Rome is our first halting-place in Italy, and for years it has been my dream and wish to be in that wonderful city, where the glorious monuments of antiquity and of the Middle Ages carry one back to those marvel- lous times. I am learning Italian, and studying the history and art necessary to enable me, in the short time we have, to see and understand the finest and most im- portant monuments. I am so entirely absorbed and interested in these studies just now, that I have not much time for other things. IMy father-in-law, per- haps Princess Charles too, will be with Aunt Marie of Russia at Sorrento then. William will probably join us at Rome ; he is quite a connoisseur in art, and a good historian, quite at home in Rome, about which he raves. I must say that I look forward im- mensely to this journey ; it opens a whole new life to one. ' Kanne has made all arrangements for us at Rome. We shall leave here about the iSth of March. Rome, Hotel Allemagne, March 27th. * * === We left the dear children well, but very sorry at parting. The two days at Munich were most interesting. The National Museum in its way surpasses any I have ever seen, and in originals is * Also engraved by the late Mr. Francis IIoll for the Queen from a pic- ture given by Her Majesty to the Prince Consort on the 26th of August, 1843. 308 PRINCESS ALICE. richer even than South Kensington. Aunt Marie- chen was very kind and dear ; the . Moriers very amiable hosts, and we met some interesting people there. Two hours before we left, after eieht in the evening, Ludwig and Otto * came to us and re- mained some time. The Brenner, over which we came, was covered with snow — most beautiful scenery, like St. Moritz in the Engadine. The journey was very fatiguing. We had a morning for Bologna, and had to wait three hours at Florence for the nigrht train — time enough to drive round and in the town, which is most lovely. What trees, mountains, colors ! then the fine buildino-s ! The followinor mornino;- at six we reached Rome. The sun was bright, the distance blue — the grand ruins dark and sharp against the sky, cypresses, stone pines, large cork oaks, making up such a beautiful picture. Every day I admire the scenery more and more ; every little bit of architecture, broken or whole, with a glimpse of the Campagna, a picturesque dirty peasant and a dark tree close by, is a picture in itself which one would like to frame and hang up in one's room. It is too, too beautiful ! To tell you all we have seen and are seeing would tire you. Bertie and Arthur's descriptions, too, so lately have told you the same. The Via Appia, the grand old road lined with ruins of splendid tombs, leading from Albano through the Campagna to Rome, along which St. Paul went, and the great kings and emperors made their trium- phal entries, is a fit one to lead to such a city as Rome, which ruled the world. The antique monuments, those of the Middle * The King of Bavaria and his brother, first cousins of Prince Louis of Hesse. TRIALS. 309 Ages, are so magnificent and interesting that as yet I don't know which to mention first or admire most! Our incognito* did not last long (though even now we maintain it), for the Crown Princess heard of us and came to see us, as did the Crown Prince, and we had to go to the Quirinal, a morning visit without entoiLra.o'e. Palm Sunday, Rome, April 6th. * * * We saw the besfinningf of mass and blessing of the palnis in St. Peter's this morning, with a procession and beautiful singing. Whilst the procession, with part of the choristers, go outside the church, some remain within, and they respond to each other, which produces a very striking effect. In spite of the bad style inside of St. Peter's, as a whole it produces a marvellous effect through its wonderful size and richness of decoration. I saw two convents yesterday : the Sepolte Vive, which Bertie and Alix saw, and where the nuns asked much after him, and said that he was molto amabile ; and another equally strict one, but not austere, where the Superior told me that Aunt Feodore with Princess Hohenzollern had paid them a visit. Mon- signore Howard was the only gentleman with me and the ladies, as they never see any men. Their idea is, that they spend the whole of their life in con- templation and prayer, so as to pray for those who cannot pray for themselves. The museums of the Vatican and of the Capitol, with their enormous collection of antiques, are very fine. The celebrated Venus, Apollo Belvidere, the Torso (which Michael Angelo admired so much, and was taken to touch when he could no more see it), the wounded Gladiator, etc., are there. The Sistine Chapel, with Michael Angelo's frescoes, which are 3IO PRINCESS ALICE. certainly the most marvellous pieces of painting and conception, is very dark, and the frescoes are suffer- ing much from the smoke, dust, etc. Raphael's Stanze are far better preserved, and lighter than I had expected, and of such beauty ! I thought so often and so much of dear Papa, when I saw the originals of all the pictures he so much admired and took such interest in. How this alone fascinates me I cannot tell you. In these gal- leries and churches there is only too much to be seen, besides the antique ruins, etc. You would be terrified to see how full our day is from before nine. Mr. Ruland is an excellent cicerone for pictures and sculptures. William is with us here since last Sun- day. We are sfoinof to the Villa Ludovisi this afternoon. The gardens of the Villa Doria Pamfili are most beautiful : the terraces there remind me of Osborne. I can see in many things where dear Papa got his ideas from for Osborne and for his decorations, which Professor Gruner understood so well to carry out. Many thanks for your having told Lady Churchill to send me an account of your opening of the Park.* I am glad that all went off so well, and that you were not the worse for it. I have quite refused going to Naples. We shall arrange probably to go for two days to Castellamare (one hour from Naples) ; from thence to Sorrento and Pompeii, and return here. As yet it is not hot here at all. Rome, April 9th. Let me thank you for your letter written on our * The opening of Victoria Park, in the East end of London, on the 2d of April. TRIALS. 3 1 1 dear Victoria's birthday. I have never been away from her on her birthday before, and though we see such fine interestmg things, yet I feel very homesick for the dear children always. In three weeks or less I shall see them again. I look forward all the time with perfect impatience, as I am so rarely separated from them, and we live so much together. Every other day Fraulein Kitz and Orchard write, so that I have news daily. Louis' father wrote me to-day, as his sister asks us to her house at Sorrento for one or two nisfhts for the 1 2th ; but as I was rather deranged from a sick headache yesterday, I shall wait a day before we decide. It is wet and quite cold to-day. We visited San Clemente two days ago, and Father Mulooly took us through the three churches — one under the other. The antique one was full of water, and we walked about on rickety planks, each with a lighted taper, as it is quite dark there. It is most curious, and the old paintings on the walls tell- ing the legend of St. Clement are wonderfully full of expression and feeling for the time they were done. Rome, April 19th. * * * Our visit to Sorrento went off well. We got there at one on Monday morning for lunch- eon. The sun had given me a dreadful headache, which ended in sickness, so that I could not leave my room. Marie sat with me, and was very dear and kind. The next day, she and my Aunt, who seems tired and dispirited, had bad headaches. We went with my father-in-law and some of the ladies and gentlemen on the following afternoon in the Empress' yacht to Capri, close by, to see the blue grotto. The Bay of Naples, particularly seen from Sor- 312 FHINCESS ALICE. rento, is most lovely — like a beautiful dream — the colors, the outlines are so perfect. We breakfasted together in the morning with Aunt and Marie, and on Tuesday we took our leave. We shall go to Florence the 23d, (the first station homeward) ; remain there three or four days ; one night at Verona, and then home. It is a fatiguing journey, and we have so often had people in the carriage, which is very unpleasant — some very rude English, going to Sorrento ; they did not know us. Florence, April 25th, Your kind wishes I received early this morning. Thousand thanks for them, and for the presents which I shall find on getting home. I shall be so glad to have a large photograph of yourself. Thirty years ! Good-bye, youth ! but I feel quite as old as I am, though the time has flown by so fast. I would it had flown as well as it has fast ! I look back to the past with great gratitude to the Almighty for innumerable blessings, and pray our life may continue so blest. I have a very bad headache — neuralgia ; I have it continually ; and the journey is very long and tiring. Darling Ernie wanted to buy something for my birthday, and he thought a china doll with a bath would be the best. I am glad Victoria remembered to write to Beatrice as I told her; they are very fond of their Auntie. Florence seems a beautiful town, and the situation amongst the hills, over which the suburbs spread, is most picturesque. I enclose the last telegrams from Sorrento. It is Jievre du pays which Marie had. We remained at Rome a day longer on account of poor Alfred. He is very patient and hopeful. The King, whom we saw at the races, sends you TRIALS. 313 his respects, and was delighted with the cream- colored horse you sent him. Many thanks for the flowers. I enclose two from here. The account of your giving- away the colors " I had already read with interest. We must eo to the Grand Duchess Marie to-mor- row ; Monday to Verona, twelve hours ; next morn- ing to Munich, and that night to Darmstadt. How I look forward to seeinof the dear children ! It seems to me an age since we parted. Darmstadt, June 9th, Tender thanks for your last letter, and for every word of sympathy! The weary days drag on, and bring much pain at times, though there are moments of comfort, and even consolation. The horror of my darling's sudden death f at times torments me too much, particularly waking of a morning ; but when I think he is at rest, free from the sorrow we are suffering, and from every evil to come, I feel quite resigned. He was such a bright child. It seems so quiet next door ; I miss the little feet, the coming to me, for we lived so much to- gether, and Ernie feels so lost, poor love. We were at the Mausoleum with all the children yesterday evening. It is a quiet spot amidst trees and flowers, with a lovely view toward the hills and plain. He loved flowers so much. I can't see one along the roadside without wishing to pick it for him. There is a young sculptor from Stuttgart, who was accidently here, and, meeting the children, had asked permission to make medallions of them. The * To the 79th Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders, at Parkhurst, on the l6lh (if April. f The allusion is to the death of the little Prince Frederick, who v/as killed on the 2glh of the previous monlli by a fall from a window. 314 • PRINCESS ALICE. last afternoon sweet Frittie had sat to him, and he is now making a lovely bust of him, which is getting very like. On Wednesday my mother-in-law, with her three sons, goes to Berlin ; on Thursday Uncle Adalbert" \\\\\ be buried in the Dom. We sha'n't be able to go to Seeheim until Satur- day. How too kind of you to have asked us to Osborne ! How a rest and home air would have revived me — and the pleasure of seeing you again ; but Louis cannot leave until after his birthday. If he did get leave, it would so throw him out before he has to command; and, having been absent this spring, he feels it an impossibility, and this I am sure you will understand. I could not leave him or the children. Our circle has grown smaller, and drawn us all the more together with a dread of parting from each other. We thank you a thousand times for the kind offer. Seeheim, June 22d. * :i: * I (Jq earnestly hope that too long a time may not elapse before we meet. It is \ery hot, and I feel very low and unhappy. To-morrow this house will be full, and all the Russians, etc., close by. Had there only been any other quiet country place to be at, how gladly would I have escaped this. ■^ '=' * It is only three weeks to-day since we took our darling to his last resting-place ! I wish I could go there to-day, but it is too hot and too far. Fritz and Louise of Baden came two days ago to Darmstadt, to see my parents-in-law and us. * Princess Charles' brother, Prince Adalbert of Prussia, TRIALS. 3 1 5 « Dr. Macleod's letter is very kind. I enclose two photographs of dear Frittie out of groups, the negative of one of which unluckily does not exist any more. The little blouse is the one he had on on that terrible day. My darling sweet child — to have lost him so ! To my grave shall I carry this sorrow with me. In the book you sent me there is a fine poem by Miss Procter, " Our grief, our friend," called " Friend Sorrow," which expresses so much what I myself feel about a deep grief. Seeheim, June 27th. * * * It was just four weeks yesterday since our darling died, and we went to the Mausoleum. I felt the whole weight of my sorrow, and the terrible shock doubly again. But the precious child does not — that is a comfort. He is happy and at rest, whilst we grieve and mourn. Ernie always prays for Frittie, and talks to mc of him when we walk together. Aunt Marie arrived at two on Monday, and a few hours later came to see me, and was so sympathizing, motherly, and loving ; it touched me much. At such moments she is peculiarly soft and womanly, and she loves her own children so tenderly. She cried much, and told me of the sad death of her eldest girl, who was seven, and of the terrible, irreparable loss her eldest son was to her. She has such a religious, truly resigned way of looking at great sorrows such as these. In the room I am now living in Aunt Marie had seen Frittie in his bath two years ago, and she remembered all about him. She is coming to " Sunshine's" toilet this evening; it always amuses her, and she is very fond of the children. Seeheim, July plh. * * * There are days which seem harder than 3l6 PRINCESS ALICE. Others, and when I feel very heartsick, prayer and quiet and solitude do me good. I hear Afiie comes on Thursday night. This evening the Emperor arrives. Poor Marie"'" is very happy, and so quiet. ^' * * How I feel for the parents, this only daughter (a character of Hi7igeb2tng [perfect devotion] to those she loves), the last child entirely at home, as the parents are so much away that the two youngest, on account of their studies, no more travel about. Seeheim, July 26th, * * * I am glad that you have a little colored picture of my darling. I feel lower and sadder than ever, and miss him so much, so continually. There is such a gap between Ernie and Sunny, and the two boys were such a pretty pair, and were become such companions. Having so many girls, I was so proud of our two boys ! The pleasure did not last long, but he is rame more than ever now. He seems near me always, and I carry his precious image in my heart everywhere. That can never fade or die I Seeheim, August 2d. Many thanks for your dear letter ! I am feeling so low and weak to-day that kind words are doubly soothing. You feel so with me, when you under- stand how long and deep my grief must be. And does one not grow to love one's grief, as having be- come part of the being one loved — as if through this one could still pay a tribute of love to them, to make up for the terrible loss, and missing of not being able to do any thing for the beloved one any more ? ^ I * The Grand Duchess Marie, who was engaged on the iilh of July to the Duke of Edinburgh. •J- How these words recall those of Constance {King John, act iii., scene 4)- Grief fills the room up of my absent child, Lies in his bed, walks up and down with me. TRIALS. 317 am so much with my children, and am so accustomed to care for them and their wants daily, that I miss not having Frittie, the object of our greatest care, far more than words can describe ; and in the quiet of our every-day life, where we have only the children around us, it is doubly and trebly felt, and is a sor- row that has entered into the very heart of our existence. May the hour of trial and grief bring its blessing with it, and not have come in vain ! The day passes so quickly, when one can do good and make others happy, and one leaves always so much undone. I feel more than ever, one should put nothing off; and children grow up so quickly and leave one, and I would long that mine should take nothing but the recollection of love and happiness from their home with them into the world's fight, knowing that they have there always a safe harbor, and open arms to comfort and encourage them when they are in trouble. I do hope that this may become the case, though the lesson for parents is so difficult, being continually ^zV/;/^, without always finding the return. Dear Fannie Baillie has been a few days here, and goes to England to-day. I shall miss her so much. I am so very fond of her. I hope you will see her ; she will bring you many messages from us. Seeheim, August 13th. * * * After endless difficulties it has been settled that we can go to the Mainau. I am so far from strong and well that a change is necessary, and we shall go on the i5th, as Louise of Baden pro- posed, and I have written this to her. Puts on his pretty looks, repeats his words, Remembers me of all Ills gracious parts, Stuffs out his vacant garments with his form ; Then have I reason to be fond of grief. 3l8 PRINCESS ALICE. How you will enjoy the rest at Balmoral ! After so much going on you must require it. Helen e Renter is coming here for a fortnight with her boy — Ernest's age. Poor boy, he longs for a playfellow. Seeheim, August i6th. * * * Louis joins with me in saying that we shall gratefully accept your wish that we should come to Windsor, and he trusts there will be no difficulties for leave then. * * -5^ Seeheim, September 7th. * '"" ^ You ask if I can play yet? I feel as if I could not, and I have not yet done so. In my own house it seems to me as if I never could play again on that piano, where little hands were nearly always thrust when I wanted to play. Away from home — in England — much sooner, I had played so often lately that splendid, touching funeral march of Chopin's, and I remember it is the last thing I played, and then the boys were running in the room. Mary Teck came to see me and remained two nights, so warm-hearted and sympathizing. I like to talk of him to those who love children, and can understand how great the gap, how intense the pain, the endinof of a little bright existence causes. Soon I shall have my Louis back. I long for him very much ; but the change of air, the active out-door life, and being quite thrown into men's society and occupations, must refresh body and mind. Here he has only me, the governess and children as Umgang. But he is what the Germans call eiii Hatishainincl — it is what he likes best. We shall do nothing for his birthday. The chil- TRIALS. 319 dren will recite their poems and write little things, and his parents wUl come to our five o'clock tea. Heiden, Appenzell, October yth. How kind of you to remember our darling's birth- day ; we both thank you for this. Sad and many are our thoughts. I think of my loneliness and anxiety when he was born, with Louis far away in the midst of danger — a sad and awful time to come into the world ; but sweet Frittie was my comfort and occu- pation, a second son, a pleasure to us both ! Now all this is wiped out, and our parents' hearts are sore, and askingr for the dear bright face we miss so much from amoncfst our circle of children ! He ended his fight very soon. May we all follow in a way as peaceful, with as little struggle and pain, and leave an image of as much love and brightness behind, to be a blessed remembrance for the rest of our lives ! I can't write on any other subject to-day, there- fore close these short lines with much love from your devoted child, Alice. Darmstadt, November 14th. * * * It is very kind of you to ask about the rooms. I should prefer living in the tapestry rooms this time. It won't be like the last time — though after our house here, so full of happy and heart-rend- ing recollections, I go through continual pangs, which it will take many a year to soften down, as you can understand. Buckingham Palace, December 20th. Beloved Mama : — How much I thank you for your dear precious letter, and for all the true love and considerate sympathy you showed me during 320 PRINCESS ALICE. our visit ! It has soothed and comforted me, I assure you, and will be a pleasure and satisfaction for me to look back to the many pleasant talks we had tocrether. Louis, who has always been so devoted to you, was touched to tears, as I was, by your expressions of love to us and to our children. Thank you also for all advice, which is so precious to me, and in following it I shall like to think that I am doing something that you told me. How much I felt in parting from you I cannot say. Neither did I like to speak of it, for it was too much, and the harder things in life are better borne in silence, as none can bear them for one, and they must be fought out by one's self. Ernie and Irene send endless loves to vou, to Uncle and Auntie. Sunny 's hand is better. Tilla came to see me yesterday, and we both drove with her to the Memorial.* -X- .-;: :;: 'piigj-g \^ gQ niuch I would run on about, now the dear habit of intercourse toirether has once more become so natural to me. Writinof is at best a poor remplagaiiL Once more from both of us warm and tender thanks for so much love and kindness! Love to Leopold and Beatrice ; kind remembrances to all who surround you ! From your grateful and de- voted child, Alice. Buckingham Palace, December 21st. * * * It is fine and warm and still. I hope it will be so early to-morrow when we cross over. I shall telegraph how the passage has been. Please thank Brown for his kind wishes. I am so sorry that I missed saying good-bye to several. To * To the Prince Consort in Hyde Park. TRIALS. 321 say the truth, I dreaded it. It is always so painful. The old Baron's* way of disappearing was almost the best. *" 1874. During the first months of this year the Princess had the comfort of seeing many of her relations. The year was chiefly spent in retirement, and de- voted to many sad memories. On the 24th of May she gave birth to a daughter, whose christening took place on the nth of July at Jugenheim, near Darm- stadt, in the presence of the Empress of Russia and the Duke of Edinburgh. The child received the names of Marie Victoria Feodora Leopoldine. The hottest part of the summer was spent at Blank- enberghe for the use of sea-baths. In September the great manoeuvres of the Eleventh Army Corps took place in Upper Hesse, where the Princess met the Emperor of Germany. The Princess' charitable institutions were all pros- pering, and assuming larger and larger proportions ; amongst them the Princess' own hospital was by de- grees slowly approaching completion. It was the institution she had the most at heart. It was intended to be a traininof-school for those who intended to become nurses, and a home for probationers whose training was at an end. It was also to serve as a model of those reforms in sanitary arrangements which the Princess had so much at heart. * Baron Slockmar had such a dislike of leave-takings that he never let it be known when lie w.-is going away from the Englisli Court. The first inti- mation of his intention was — that he was already gone. 322 PRINCESS ALICE. When the provisional English hospital at Darm- stadt (already mentioned during the war in 1870) had been taken over by the Hessian authorities, all its furniture, appointments, etc., were left to the " Alice Ladies' Union " for the small hospital which it had started, aided by a small body of doctors in Darmstadt. This was the origin of the " Alice Hos- pital," begun in a very small humble way in a cramped Httle house in the Mauer-Strasse. The Frauen-Verein had undertaken, when the English National Society for Aid to the Sick and Wounded had made over their hospital to them, either to build quite a new one or thoroughly to reorganize the existing one on the Mauer-Strasse. There were no funds to build a new hospital ; therefore the " Alice Ladies' Union," could only resort to the other alternative, and this was carried out to the letter, by additional buildings and a totally new arrangement of its interior. As time went on, it was found advisable to eive the hospital a dictinct administration, and to separate it from the " Alice Ladies' Union," placing special funds at its disposal. This never would have come to pass, nor would the hospital have proved the suc- cess it did, had it not been for the untiring zeal, perseverance, economy, and practical knowledge of the lady directing it. During the summer months of 1874, a lady well acquainted with German and English hospitals — a trained nurse herself — became Lady Superintendent of the training - school for nurses, and of the hospital generally, which gradual- ly, but surely, was gaining in importance. TRIALS. 323 The Alice Union for the Employment of Women made a further step in advance during" this year, and established itself on a firm broad basis under the name of "The Alice Society for the Education and Employment of Women of all Classes." Of this the Princess was the President, whilst Fraulein Louise Biichner directed the whole. The gentlemen and ladies who formed the committee were chosen by the Princess. All worked most harmoniously to- gether; and the Princess was as anxious to receive advice from others in matters concerning the society as she was glad to give it herself. Darmstadt, January 12th. * * * Hoiu low and miserable I am at times in these rooms, particularly when I go to bed, I cannot tell you ! The impression of all is so vivid and heart-rending. I could cry out for pain sometimes. Till the first year is round this will often return, I know, and must be borne as part of the sorrow ! January i6th. * * M: J l^now well what your grief and your bereavement were compared to mine ; but they are such different sorrows, I don't think one can well compare them. Your life was broken — upset : altered from the very roots, through the one you lost ; my life is unchanged, save in the mother's heart the blank, the pain which thousands of little things awaken — which by the world, even by the family, are scarcely felt ; and this ofttimes loneliness of sentiment clouds one's life over with a quiet sorrow which is felt in evay thing. * * * Darmstadt, January 23d. On our dear Affie's [Prince Alfred's] wedding- 324 PRINCESS ALICE. day, a few tender words. It must seem so strange to you not to be near him. My thoughts are con- stantly with them all, and we have only the Times account, for no one writes here — they are all too busy, and of course all news comes to you. What has Augusta [Lady Augusta Stanley] written, and Vicky and Bertie ? Any extracts or other news- paper accounts but what we see would be most welcome. We give a dinner to-night to the family and e7itoiiraze, and Russian and EnHish letrations. * * •^ Louis sends you his love and warmest wishes for yourself and the happiness of the dear pair, in which I most earnestly join. God bless and protect them, and may all turn out well ! Darmstadt, January 28th, * * * Dear Marie [the Duchess of Edinburgh] seems to make the same impression on all. How glad I am she is so quite what I thought and hoped. Such a wife must make Affie happy, and do him good, and be a great pleasure to yourself, which I always like to think. I shall read to my mother-in- law the letters, and show them to Bauerlein. Both will be very grateful for being allowed to see them. We are going from Saturday to Monday to Carls- ruhe. The eldest girls and Bauerlein, who is going to take charge of them for a week, are going with us. * * * One day we have six degrees of heat, the next two or four of cold ; it is very unwhole- some. Carlsruhe, February 2d. I have a little time before breakfast to thank you so very much for the enclosures, also the Dean's [Stanley] letter through dear Beatrice. We are most grateful lor being allowed to hear these most interest- TRIALS. . 325 ing- reports ! It brings every thing so much nearer. How pleasant it is to receive only satisfactory re- ports ! I fear Aunt Marie is far from well. I should be very anxious, for she is like a fading flower. All the family, Hohenlohes and Holsteins, send their duty. All their respective children and ours were together yesterday afternoon. I hope not to seem vain, if it strikes me that amongst all the children my girls usually carry away the palm. Victoria is in such good looks at present ; they are both natural and real children, and as such I hope to be able to retain them long. Sophie Weiss * came to see me yesterday. I was very glad to be able to give her so good an account of you, and how young you looked when I had that great happiness of those few short days at Windsor, which did me good in every respect. Old Frau von Bunsen, now eighty-three, I went to see — such a charming old lady, fresh in her mind, with snow- white hair. You and Papa were the topic she en- joyed speaking about, and our brothers and sisters. Darmstadt, March 2d. * * * My nice Miss Graves I could so well have taken when Kitty left, but I was so anxious for a German, though I was much inclined toward her ; I thought a German more important than it really is. Not the nationality but the individuality is the first thing ; and here I think I have succeeded in finding the right person. * * * Darmstadt, March nth. "^' '^^ " I hope you w^ere not the worst for all your exertions. The Times accounts are charming. Such a warm reception must have touched Marie, * A former Dresser of llie Queen's. 326 PRINCESS ALICE. and shown how the Enghsh chng to their Sovereign and her house. We have cold, snow, and dust, after quite warm weather. I trust you will have sunshine to-morrow. This last fortnight the news from Ashantee has so absorbed our thouohts. It has been an arduous un- dertaking, and one's heart warms to our dear troops, who under all difficulties sustain their old name for bravery and endurance. The poor 42d [Regiment] lost many through illness, too ; and I see they en- tered Coomassie playing the bagpipes ! Louis is just reading to me Sir Hope Grant's book on the Indian Mutiny, which he kindly sent me, and which is interesting and pleasant to read. I am taking the first snowdrops to sweet Frittie's grave. Hozv the first flowers he so dearly loved bring tears to my eyes, and recollections which wring my heart anew ! I dread these two next months with their flowers and their birds. Good bye, darling Mama. Darmstadt, April 7th, * * * Surely Marie must feel it very deeply, for to leave so delicate and loving a mother must seem almost wrong. How strange this side of hu- man nature always seems — leaving all you love most, know best, owe all debts of gratitude to, for the com- paratively unknown ! The lot of parents is indeed hard, and of such self-sacrifice. April nth, * * * The children are too much an object here ; they have too little to compare with ; they would be benefited by a change, seeing other things and people, else they get into a groove, which I know is not good. They are very unspoilt in their tastes, and simple and quiet children, which I think of the greatest importance. TRIALS. 327 Louis Battenberg has passed a first-rate examina- tion. The parents are so happy, and the influence the good conduct and steady work of the elder brother 1 as on the younger is of the greatest use, as they wish to follow him, and be as well spoken of, and please their parents, as he does. * ''^ * April 15th. My best thanks for your dear letter of the 1 3th. You say rightly, what a fault it is of parents to bring up their daughters with the main object of marrying them. This is said to be a too prominent feature in the modern English education of the hiMier classes. ■^^ * * I want to strive to bring up the girls without seeking this as the sole object for the future — to feel they can fill up their lives so well otherwise. ■K- -x- * ^ marriaofe for the sake of marriaee is surely the greatest mistake a woman can make * * * I know what an absorbinof feelinof that of devotion to one's parent is. When I was at home, it filled my whole soul. It does still, in a great degree, and Heiniweh [homesickness] does not cease after ever so long an absence. * * * Darmstadt, April 23d. * * '^ I thought so much of your remarks about daughters, etc., and do think it so natural and dutiful to remain with one's parent as long as one is wanted. Is it not a duty when no one else can take one's place ? I should feel it so. April 26th. I thank you most tenderly for your loving wishes for my birthday, received on getting up yesterday morning. You can understand that the day was in- expressibly sad, that the fair head missing in our circle was painfully felt, and that all these recollec- 328 PRINCESS ALICE. tions caused me endless tears and heartache — though not for him, sweet precious child. As you say, life at best is a struggle ; happy those who can lie down to rest, having fought their battle well ; or those who have been spared fighting it at all, and have remained pure and untouched, barely touching this earth, so mixed up with grief and sin ! Let me thank you for the charming photographs, and for the present toward the layette — a most kind assistance. * * * We went to the Mausoleum. The child- ren had made me wreaths to take there, and we all went together. How often and tenderly Ernie speaks of Frittie ! It is very touching, and speaks of his deep and warm heart. He said the other day — for the recollection of death has left such a deep impres- sion, and he cannot reconcile it with life, it pains him, — "When I die, you must die too, and all the others ; why can't all die together? I don't like to die alone, like Frittie." Poor child! the wish that all have, who love their own, so early expressed. * * * May 4th. Many thanks for your last dear letter written on dear Arthur's birthday, of which, though late, I wish you joy. Such a good, steady, excellent boy as he is! What a comfort it must be to you, never to have had any cause of uneasiness or annoyance in his con- duct! He is so much respected, which for one so young is doubly praiseworthy. From St. Peters- burg, as from Vienna, we heard the same account of the steady line he holds to, in spite of all chaffing, etc., from others; which shows character. My mother-in-law tells me that since Miechen has been allowed to retain her religion, this right will of course be conceded to all Princesses in future. What TRIALS. 329 a good thing, for the changing I always thought too bad, and nowadays so intolerant and narrow. ^' * * To think of Mr. Van de Weyer also leaving this world! To you he will be a loss, and to all who knew him. Old friends are precious landmarks in the history of one's life, and not to be replaced by new ones; and it is sad, how time reduces the num- ber as one gets on in life. How deeply you must feel this with each fresh loss! I feel much for you. * * * Darmstadt, May i8th, * * * Since 1867 the Emperor's [of Russia] face shrank so, and he became so thin. When I first saw him, in 1864, he was much stouter and fresher looking. He has many cares, and one sees they weigh upon him, for he is so kind and so well-mean- ing, and has done so much to advance liberty and culture in his own country. Darmstadt, June 5th. Beloved Mama: — * * * The day (Whitsunday, and dear Frittie's burial-day) of baby's birth would have been too sad, had not the fact of its being your birthday given a double significance ; but when I heard those bells, and became conscious aeain of every thing, my feelings were deep and mingled be- yond expression. '^ * '^ With repeated tender thanks, your most loving child, Alice. June nth. ''' * * Having no cow, or country place to keep one, in this tremendous heat where one can't keep milk, and dysentery carries off so many babies, it would not be fair to deprive the poor little thing of its natural and safest nourishment till the hot months 330 FHINCESS ALICE. are over. These, darling Mama, are my reasons, and though I do it with such pleasure, yet it is not without sacrifices of comfort and convenience, etc.; but it seems to me the best course to take for our children, and as we are situated. Many thanks for being baby's godmother ! It gives us great pleasure. Do thank all our good people for their kind interest. '"* * * I am drivinor out this afternoon if cool enough. You must not tell one of the heavenly Scotch air, when one is breathing heated stove air ; it makes one too envious. July 13th. The christening went off very well. Baby looked really pretty for so young an individual. It was in a large room. Marie [Duchess of Edinburgh], quite in pink, held her godchild ; and my mother-in-law, with her best love, begs me to tell you, it had pleased her so much that you had asked her to rep- resent you. My three older girls looked very nice, I thought, in lavender silk (your Christmas present). I had the same color, and " Sunny " in pink, was immensely admired. She is still improving in looks since you saw her. I was glad it was another place, in different cir- cumstances from the last christening. As it was, it moved me much. The last time I heard these words, darling Frittie was with us, and now the chain has a gap ! * * * We can get nothing at Scheveningen except at exorbitant prices, so we go to that dread- ful Blankenberghe — without tree or bush, nothing but a beach and sand banks. TRIALS. 331 Blankenberghe, July 24th. The sea air is doing" all good, the children espe- cially, the heat had pulled them so. 1 have bathed once, and hope it will agree. * * * My cough and relaxed throat are getting better. The rooms are small and few, but clean, and the cooking good, and we are quite satisfied. There is not a soul one knows. Blankenberghe, August i6th. This day makes me think of our dear kind Grand- mama, whose image still dwells amongst us ! None who ever knew her can forget how truly lovable she was ; and we grandchildren will ever retain such a bright recollection of her. So many little attentions, small souvenirs, kind letters, all tokens of affection so pleasing to the receivers. Yesterday Louis saved a lady from drowning. He was bathing. The waves were high, and he heard a cry for help, and saw a bather struggling. She had lost her footing. Her husband tried to help her, but was exhausted and let her go ; equally so the brother-in-law, and Louis felt he was losing his strength, but she kept her presence of mind and floated. He let her go once till a wave brought her near him aoi'ain, and he cauoht her hand and brouQfht her in, feeling quite done himself. I was not in the sea at the time, for the waves were so tremendous that I lost my footing several times, and had come out, fearing an accideiit. The lady is a Mrs. T. Sligo, a Scotchwoman, and she has just written to me to thank Louis. He is a ijood swimmer, and very strong. The gentlemen are two grey- haired Scotchmen. Ella has so wonderfully improved since she has been here. She is no more pale and languid, and Ernie is another child also. 332 PRINCESS ALICE. Luckily it has not been warm, so the air and baths are doubly efficacious. They have done me a world of good. I feel quite different to what I have done ever since Sunny's birth. I believe the sea to be the only thing for such a relaxed state, and, being strong and healthy by nature, I can't bear not being well, and feeling so weak. Miss Graves has re- turned, but the girls have been very good — no trouble at all. Kranichstein, August 26th. On dear Papa's birthday I must send you a few lines. The past is ever bright and vivid in my mind, though year after year intervenes. How must it be for you, who live surrounded by such precious recol- lections of the happy past ! I think doubly of you to-day, and doubly tenderly, sweet Mama ! I got home quite right, and found the house here cold. There was no sun, and our rooms beincf to the north, and the wood so near, makes them feel chilly. I am glad dear Leopold bore the journey well. The air will do him good in his weakened state. The day at Laeken was quiet and pleasant. Marie is still thinner, and more aged, I think. The loss of that nice boy weighs on them still, and they spoke much about it, and she with many tears. Every one has his burden to bear, and must bear it alone with trust and resignation — that is the thing to struggle and to pray for. Kranichstein, September ist. " * * I shall get a comforter done for good Mrs. Brown, kind old woman. I am glad she does not forget me, and shall be pleased to do any little thing that can give her pleasure. Will you tell her TRIALS. 333 the plaid she made me still goes everywhere with me? How is Mrs. Grant? Louis is gone, 5nd I have a good deal to do every day. We breakfast at half-past eight, then I have baby, and take the children out till eleven. I then hav^e business, babv, and, at one, the elder o\x\s al- ternatelv for French readinor. After luncheon I write my letters, etc., and before five go out. In the evenings I read, and have supper at eight with the two ladies. Ella is another child since she has been at the sea- side — fine color, no longer pale and languid, learns M'ell, and is quite different. Ernie the same, bright and fresh ; while before they had been looking pulled and weak, outo^rowincr their strength. " Sunny " is the picture of robust health, and sweet little " sister IMaly " sits up quite alone, and is very neat and rosy, with such quick eyes, and two deep dimples in her cheeks — a great pet, and so like my poor Frittie. The return here has been very painful, and days of great depression still come, when 1 am tormented with the dreadful remembrance of the day I lost him. Too cruel and asfonizincr are those thouohts. I dwell on his rest and peace, and that our sufterings he can- not know. What mio^ht not life have brouijht him ? Better so ! but hai'd to say, " God's will be done." - Kranichstein, September 15th. "^ * * 's conversion has created no smaller sensation with us than elsewhere, and the Times criticised his step so sharply. It remains a retro- grade movement for any Protestant, how much more so for a man of his stamp ! Quite incomprehensible to me. * * * This Catholic movement is so un-English. 334 PRINCESS ALICE. I think, among those Ritualists there are bond fide Catholics who help to convert. '''' * * I will send you sweet little Maly's photograph next time. * * -- Baby has a very fair skin, light-brown hair and deep-blue eyes with marked eyebrows, not much color in her cheeks, but pink and healthy-looking altogether. Kranichstein, September 24th. * * * People with strong feelings and of ner- vous temperament, for which one is no more respon- sible than for the color of one's eyes, have things to fight against and to put up with, unknown to those of quiet, equable dispositions, who are free from vio- lent emotions, and have consequently no feeling of nerves — still less, of irritable nerves. If I did not control mine as much as I could, they would be dreadful. * * -^ One can overcome a great deal — but alter one's self one cannot. * * * October 31st. * * * I always think, that in the end children educate the parents. For their sakes there is so much one must do : one must forget one's self, if every thing is as it ought to be. It is doubly so, if one has the misfortune to lose a precious child. Riickert's lovely lines are so true (after the loss of two of his children) : Nun hat euch Gott verlieh'n, was wir audi woUten thun, Wir wollten euch erzieh'n, und ihr erzieht uns nun. O Kinder, ihr erziehet mit Schmerz die Eltern jetzt ; Ihr zieht an uns, und ziehet uns auf zu euch zuletzt.* Yesterday Ernie was telling Orchard that I was * Now unto you the Lord has done what we had wished to do ; We would have train'd you up, and now 'tis we are train'd by you. With grief and tears, O children, do you your parents train, And lure us on and up to you, to meet in heaven again. TRIALS. 335 going to plant some Spanish chestnuts, and she said : " Oh, I shall be dead and gone before they are big ; what a pity we had none sooner ! " and Ernie burst out crying and said : " No, you must not die alone — I don't like people to die alone ; we must die all to- gether ! " He has said the same to me before, poor darling. After Lenchen's [Princess Christian's] boys were gone, and he had seen Eddy and Georgy [sons of the Prince of Wales], his own loss came fresh upon him, and he cried for his litde brother! It is the remaining behind the loss, the missing of the dear ones, that is the cruel thing to bear. Only time can teach one that, and resignation to a Higher Will. -^ ^- * Darmstadt, November 9th. * * * The new Church laws (similar to the Prussian) go through our Upper Chamber to-morrow, and will meet with great opposition. Louis is, of course, for accepting them, as a check must be put on the Catholics ; for the Catholic clergy are paid by the State as well as the Protestant, so that the State has an equal right over both ; but this right the Catholics have for years managed to evade. The Bishop of Mayence is doing his utmost to create every possible obstacle, but it is to be hoped that one will not here have to have recourse to the method of fines and imprisonment as in Prussia * * * November i6th. Many thanks for your dear letter, and for the advice, which, as a mark of your interest in our children, is very precious, besides being so good ! What you mention I have never lost sight of, and there is, as you say, nothing more injurious for children than that they should be made a fuss about. 33^ PRIA'CESS ALICE. I want to make them unselfish, unspoiled, and con- tented ; as yet this is the case. That they take a greater place in my life, than is often the case in our families, comes from my not being able to have enough persons of a responsible sort to take charge of them always ; certain things remain undone from that reason, if I do not do them, and they would be the losers. I certainly do not belong by nature to those women who are above all zvife ; but circum- stances have forced me to be the mother in the real sense, as in a private family, and I had to school my- self to it, I assure you, for many small self-denials have been necessary. Baby-worship, or having the children indiscriminately about one, is not at all the right thing, and a perpetual talk about one's children makes some women intolerable. I hope I steer clear of these faults — at least I try to do so, for I can only agree in every word you say, as does Louis, to whom I read it ; and he added when I was reading your remarks : " Das thust Du aber nicht. Die Kinder und andere Menschen wissen gar nicht, was Du fur sie thust " [" But you don't do so. Neither the chil- dren nor anybody else knows what you do for them "]. He has often complained that I would not have the children enough in my room, but, being of your opinion, where it was not necessary, I thought it better not. * * ^= December 12th. I enclose a few lines to Mr. Martin.* I have only had time to look at the preface, and am very glad to hear that you are satisfied. With what interest shall I read it! You will re- ceive these lines on the 14th. Last year I had the * The first volume of whose " Life of the Prince Consort" had just been published. TRIALS. 337 comfort of being near you. It did me real good then, and I thank you again for those short and quiet days, where" the intercourse with you was so soothing to my aching heart. There is no Umgang [intercourse] I know, that gives me more happiness than when I can be with you — above all, in quiet. The return to the so-called world I have barely made. Life is serious — a journey to another end. The flowers God sends to brighten our path I take with gratitude and enjoy ; but much that was dearest, most precious, which this day commei7toratcs , is in the grave ; part of my heart is there too, though their spirits, adored Papa's, live on with me, the holiest and brightest part of life, a star to lead us, were we but equal to following it! The older I grow, the more perfect, the more touching and good, dear Papa's image stands before me. Such an entire life for duty, so joyously and unpretendingly borne out, remains for all times something inexpressibly fine and grand ! With it how tender, lovable, gay, he was ! I can never talk of him to others who have not known him, without tears in my eyes — as I have them now. He wasSinA is my ideal. I never knew a man fit to place beside him, or so made to be devotedly loved and admired. * * * December i4tli. Before this clay is over, I must write a few words — my thoughts are so much with you and with the past, the bright, happy past of my childhood, where beloved Papa was the centre of this rich and happy existence. I have spent nearly the whole day with the precious volume which speaks so much of you and of him. What a man in every sense of the word ; what a Prince he was — so entirely what the dear old Baron 338 PRINCESS ALICE. [Stockmar] urged him always to be! Life with him must have seemed to you so secure and well- guarded. How you must have loved him ! It makes one's heart ache again and again, in reading and thinking of all dear Papa was to you, that you should have had to part from him in the heat of the day, when he was so necessary. Ihm ist zvohl [With him it is well]. A life like his was a whole long life- time, though only twenty-two years, and he well deserved his rest ! The hour is nearing when we last held and pressed his hand in life, now thirteen years ago. How well I recollect that last sunrise, and then the dreadful night with you that followed on that too awful day ! But it is not well to dwell on these things, when we have the bright, sunny past to look back to. Tenny- son's beautiful Dedication '•' expresses all one feels and would wish to say. I can only add, with a heavy- drawn sigh, " Oh, to be worthier of such a Father!" How far beneath him, if not always in aims, at least in their fulfilment, have I always remained ! December 17th. My best thanks for the letter of the i5th. Poor Colonel Grey's f death is shocking, and Bertie and Alix are sure to have felt it deeply. Dear Bertie's true and constant heart suffers on such occasions, for he can be constant in friendship, and all who serve him serve him with warm attachment. I hope he won't give way to the idea of Sandringham being unlucky, though so much that has been trying and sad has happened to them there ! Superstition is surely a thing to fight against ; above all, with the feelino- that all is in God's hands, not in ours I o * To " The Idyls of the King." f Only child of Sir George Grey, and Equerry to the Prince of Wales. He died at Sandringham of inflammation of the lungs. TRIALS. 339 How interesting the book is [" Life of the Prince Consort 'J ! I have finished it, and am befriedigt [satisfied]. It was a difficult undertaking, but Mr. Martin seems to have done it very well. I am sure dear Osborne is charming as ever, but I can't think of that large house so empty ; no chil- dren any more ; it must seem so forsaken in our old wing. I have such a Heiviweh [yearning] to see Osborne again after more than six years. * * si: 1875. Each year the Princess Alice endeavored by some public effort or other — either a dramatic or musical performance — to collect funds for her many charitable institutions which, as they extended their field of usefulness, were more and more in need of pecuniary help. Artists as well as amateurs gladly offered their services on all such occasions. In the beginning of this year the Prince and Princess and their children went to Ens^land for two months, spending part of the time with the Queen, and part with the Prince and Princess of Wales. The two eldest daughters, Victoria and Elizabeth, accompanied their grandmother to Balmoral in May. The whole family returned to Darmstadt at the end of June. In July the Prince and Princess Louis were present at the " coming of age" of the Hered- itary Grand Duke of Baden. The rest of the sum- mer was spent at Kranichstein. In 1874 the Hessian Government had amended their educational laws for the schools, and had estab- lished, as a fundamental principle, that needle-work 340 PRINCESS ALICE. in all its branches should be taught in all girls' schools, and that suitable teachers for this purpose should be engaged. To meet this necessity, a course of lectures and instruction in the art of nee- dle-work was instituted by the " Alice Society," open to women and girls of all classes. This has proved in its results of real blessing and benefit to the whole country. [The next two letters arose out of the expression of an opinion on the part of some of the Prince Con- sort's friends, that the publication of his Life under the sanction of the Queen, with unreserved fulness of details, had been premature.] Darmstadt, January 3d, 1875. * * * It is touching and fine in you to allow the world to have so much insight into your private life, and allow others to have what has been only your property and our inheritance. People can only be the better for reading about dear Papa, such as he was, and such as so feelingly and delicately Mr. Theodore Martin places him before them. To me the volume is inexpressibly precious, and opens a field for thought in various senses. For the frivolous higher classes how valuable this book will be, if read with real attention, as a record of a life spent in the highest aims, with the noblest conception of duty as a leading star. To this letter Her Majesty replied : Osborne, January 12, 1875. Dearest Alice :— * * * Now as regards the book. If you will reflect a few minutes, you will TRIALS. 341 see how I owed it to beloved Papa to let his noble character be known and understood, as it now is, and that to wait lonofer, when those who knew him best — his own wife, and a few (very few there are) remaining friends — were all o^one, or too old, and too far removed from that time, to be able to present a really true picture of his most ideal and remarkable character, would have been really wrong. He must be known, for his own sake, for the good of England and of his family, and of the world at large. Countless people write to say, what good it does and will do. And it is already thirteen years since he left us ! Then you must also remember, that endless false and untrue things have been written and said about us, public and private, and that in these days people will write and will know : therefore the only way to counteract this is to let the real, full truth be known, and as much be told as can be told with prudence and discretion, and then, no harm, but good, will be done. Nothing will help me more, than that my people should see what I have lost! Numbers of people we knew have had their Lives and Memoirs published, and some beautiful ones : Bunsen's by his wife; Lord Elgin's, by his (very touching and inter- esting); Lord Palmerston's ; etc., etc. " The Early Years " volume was begun for private circulation only, and then General Grey and many of Papa's friends and advisers begged me to have it published. This was done. The work was most popular and greatly liked. General Grey could not go on with it, and asked me to ask Sir A. Helps to continue it, and he said that he could not, but rec- ommended Mr. Theodore Martin as one of the most eminent writers of the day, and hoped I could pre- 342 PRINCESS ALICE. vail on him to undertake this great national work. I did succeed, and he has taken seven years to pre- pare the whole, supplied by me with every letter and extract ; and a deal of time it took, but I felt it would be a national sacred work. You must, I think, see I am right now ; Papa and I too would have suffered otherwise. I think even the German side of his character will be understood. One of the things that pleases people most is the beautiful way in which he took all good Stockmar's often very severe observations. And they also admire so much good old Stockmar's honesty, fearlessness, and are pleased to be shown what a dear warm-heart- ed old man he was. Your devoted Mama, V. R. January iSth. * * * The service in Dr. Weber's study be- fore the open coffin, filled with flowers, was very affecting. He was truly beloved and respected. His sufferings must have been intense, and for many years borne heroically — not a word said ; not a com- plaint ; always ready to bear the sorrows of others with them, yet bearing his own unassisted ! Won- derful self-command and unselfishness! He knew his illness was fatal ; even to the latter weeks con- sidered his days as but few, and put all in order, without letting his family and friends know what he himself only too well foresaw. It was a stormy afternoon with pouring rain when he was buried. Louis, his poor boy, and many were out. * "' * We have April weather. I have a very heavy cold, and feel so weak and done up. It is too warm and unhealthy ; every place smells, our house espe- cially. TRIALS. 343 January 27th. * * * My little May has such a cold, which lessens her usual smiles. She is a fine, strong child, more like what Victoria was, but marked eyebrows, with the fair hair and such speaking eyes. She and Aliky are a pretty contrast ! February 14th. You say of the drains just what I have said from year to year; and this summer — if we can get away in the spring, when it is most unwholesome — what can be done is to be done, and I hope with better success than what has hitherto been attempted. My little May cannot get rid of her cough, though she looks pink and smiling. I shall be so glad to show her to you — she is so pretty and dear. My father-in-law has for the first time got the gout in his feet, and is so depressed. Uncle Louis suffers dreadfully from oppression at night, so that he can't remain in bed. He is a good deal aged, and stoops dreadfully. ^= * * ISIarch 14th. Louis gave me a dreadful fright last week by sud- denly breaking through the ice, and at a very deep place. He laid his arms over the thicker ice, and managed to keep above water till some one was near enough to help him out. He said the water drew immensely, and he feared getting under the ice. The gentleman, who is very tall, lay down and stretched his arms out to Louis, another man hold- ing the former : and so he got out without ill effects. As it was at Kranichstein, he undressed and ruljbed himself before the stove in the Verwalter's [land- steward's] room ; and he came home in the Verwal- ter's clothes, which looked very funny. * * '^' 344 FJilNCESS ALICE. Marlborough House, May 15th. I did not half thank you yesterday for our pleasant visit. 1 could not trust myself to speak. I felt leavino- you ao"ain so much. It has been a ereat happiness to me, so woJillJiuciid [doing me so much good] to have been with you, and I can never ex- press what I feel, as I would, nor how deep and ten- der my love and gratitude to you are ! The older I grow, the more precious the Verhdltniss [relation] to a mother becomes to me, and how doubly so to you ! Louis feels as I do ; his love to you has always been as to his own mother ; and my tears begin to run when I recall your dear face and voice, which to see and hear again has seemed so natural, so — as it ought to be ! that it is quite difficult to accustom my- self to the thought that only in memory can I enjoy them now. How I do love you, sweet Mama ! There is no sacrifice I would not make for you ! and as our meetings are of late years so fleeting and far be- tween, when they are over I feel the separation very Marlborough House, June 15th. * * * God bless you, my precious Mother, watch over and guard you ; and let your blessing and motherly interest accompany us and our chil- dren ! Louis' tenderest love ; many, many kisses from all children, and William's respectful duty ! Kranichstein, June 20th. * * * All Victoria and Ella tell me of their stay at Balmoral — the many things you gave them and their people — touches me so much : let me thank you so many times again. I feel I did not half say enough, but you know how much I feel it ! TRIALS. 345 Our journey did very well ; no one was ill, after that dreadful storQi — a piece of luck. You are now again at Windsor. How much I think of you and of dear Beatrice ! July loth. * * * We got home from Carlsruhe at eleven o'clock last night. We went there on Thursday ; arrived at two ; were received there by Fritz and Louise and the Emperor ; found dear Marie Lein- ingen and Hermann and Leopoldine there. Fritz W. arrived half an hour afterwards from Vienna, hav- ing met with a railway accident in the night ; but he was, thank God, unhurt — barely shaken. It was frightfully hot ! Family dinner at five ; then a drive about the town, which was decked with flags. At nine in the evening a large soiree and continual circle ! and supper — such a heat ! At eight next morning in gala, church service. Fritz (son) for the first time in uniform with the Black Eagle ; then at ten a very fine parade, in which Fritz marched pastas second lieutenant with his regiment. The troops were so fine ; the Emperor led his own regiment past, and it was a very moving sight, with a great deal of cheering. At tw'o there was a large banquet, at which Fritz made a beautiful speech, and the Emperor a very good answer. All Fritz's (son) former school-fellows, and the different schools and masters, came by in procession, and the day was very fatiguing. He is such a good boy. His former tutor, who finished his task of ed- ucation yesterday, said to me : "Er ist ein guter Mensch und die Wahrheit selber " [He is a good man, and truth itself]. He was very self-possessed, modest, and civil, talking to every one. He is full of promise, and has been carefully and lovingly 34^ PJ?/A'Ci:SS ALICE. brought up by his parents, who are such excellent people. I have the greatest regard for them. I told the Emperor the fright we had about the war. He was much distressed, that any one could believe him capable of such a thing ; but our Fritz and Fritz of Baden agree that, with Bismarck, in spite of the nation not wishine it, he mieht bring" about a war at any moment. Our Fritz spoke so jusdy and reasonably — quite anti-war — and I told him all the opinions I had gathered and heard in London ; and he was much grieved and worried, I could see ; but it must and can be prevented, if all are against it, I am sure. This enormous and splen- did army, ready at any moment, is a dangerous pos- session for any country. "' '"'' * Kranichstein, October 7th. * ^' * To-day my eyes will not remain dry ; the recollection of five years ago, which brought us joy and promise of more in our sweet second boy, is painful in the extreme. The sudden ending of that young life ; tlie gap this has left ; the recollections that are now but to be enjoyed in silent memory, will leave a heart-ache and a sore place, beside where there is much happiness and cause for grati- tude. The six children and we, with endless flowers and tears, decked his litde grave this morning, and some sad lines of Byron's struck me as having much truth in the pain of such moments — But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree, Which living waves where thou didst cease to live, And saw around nie the wide field revive With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring Come forth her work of gladness to contrive. With all her reckless birds \\\)ow the wing, I turn'd from all she brought, to those she could not bring.* * "Childe Harold," canto iii., stanza 30. TRIALS. 347 The weather is fine ; it was much like this five years ago, but ^;;ound Metz it rained. Louis was turning into quarters with his troops from a sortie, and he' called the news out to the regiments as he rode along, and they gave a cheer for their little Prince 1 It was a dreadful time of trial and separation for both of us, and Frittie was such a comfort and conso- lation to me in all my loneliness. How sorry I am for poor Alix at this long separa- tion ! ^^ For her sake I grieve at the impossibility of her accompanying him. We hope to get back to our house by the 19th, though there will be an end of nice walks for the next eight months — the town grows so, and is all railroad and coal heaps where we had our walks for- merly, and the town pavement in the streets is most unpleasant walking. '^' * * ScHLOss Kranichstein, October i6th. For your dear letter and for the inclosures I am so grateful, but distressed beyond measure at dear Fan- nie's [Lady F^rances Baillie]. I had a long letter from her some weeks back, when she was more hopeful about dear Augusta [Stanley]. This is too much sorrow for them all! Fannie I loved as a sis- ter, and dear Augusta's devotion and self-sacrifice to you, and even to us in those dreadful years, was something rare and beautiful. Her whole soul and heart were in the duty, which to her was a sacred one. The good, excellent Dean! My sympathy is so great with these three kind and good people so sorely tried. I grieve for you too ! God help them ' October 26th. How sorry I am for dear good old Mrs. Brown * During the visit of the Prince of Wales to India. 348 PHINCESS ALICE. and for her sons.* Please say something sympa- thizing from me; her bhndness is such a trial, poor soul, at that age. How gloomily life must close for her ! 1876. Although this new year brought no actual change to the usual routine of the daily life in the Princess' home, and although the Princess was able to fulfil her social duties, traces of serious illness now beg-an to show themselves by repeated attacks of exhaus- tion and weakness. These attacks were partially relieved by a short stay in the Black Forest in June, and by a visit to England and Scotland, which she made without her husband. The Prince had been detained in Germany by the great manoeuvres, on the conclusion of which he fetched her from Eno-land, in the autumn. On their way back to Darmstadt they stopped at Brussels. They also visited Coblenz, to pay their respects to the Empress of Germany^ who had been to see their children at Darmstadt in October. January i8th, 1876. No words can express how deep my sympathy and grief is for what our dear Augusta and the Dean have to go through. With her warm, large heart, which ever lived and suffered for others, how great must her pain be in having to leave him ! I can positively think of nothing else lately, as you know * Her husband, the father of the Queen's personal attendant, John Brown, had just died. See " More Leaves from a Journal," p 319. TRIALS. 349 my love for Augusta, the General [her brother, General Bruce], ajid Fanny has always been great; and when I think back of them in former times, and in the year 1861, my heart aches and my tears flow — feeling what you and we shall lose in dear Augusta. My pity for the dear, good, kind Dean is so deep. I sent him a few words again to-day, in the hope he may still say a few words of love and gratitude to dear Augusta from me. Darmstadt, January 22d. * * -jf Yesterday morning Ernie came in to me and said, " Mama, I had a beautiful dream ; shall I tell you ? I dreamt that I was dead and was gone up to Heaven, and there I asked God to let me have Frittie again ; and he came to me and took my hand. You were in bed, and saw a great light, and were so frightened, and I said, ' It is Ernie and Frittie.' You were so astonished ! The next night Frittie and I went with a great light to sisters." Is it not touching ? He says such beautiful things, and has such deep poetic thought, yet with it all so full of fun and romping. February 9th. * * * I am so sorry and shocked about ex- cellent Mr. Harrison.* What a loss! He was so obliging and kind always in the many commissions for us children. Poor Krauslach,f too— so sad! It is too grievous ; how one well-known face — with its many associations — after another, is called away ; and on looking back, how short a space of time they seemed to have filled ! WoLFACH, June 7th. * * '=' The heat here is excessive ; the wild * Secretary in the office of the Privy Purse. f The Prince Consort's head groom, who had come over with him to England, 350 PRINCESS ALICE. flowers covering- every field are more beautiful than I have ever seen them anywhere — such quantities of large forget-me-nots. The streams are very much like Scotch ones ; the valleys are partly very narrow, and the hills wooded to the very top — rather like the Thuringer Wald, but more different greens : such lovely coloring. I admire the country so much. Darmstadt, June 23d. * * ^' How sorry I am for good, kind old Mrs. Brown — to be blind with old age seems so hard, so cruel ; but I am sure with your so loving heart you have brightened her latter years in many kind ways. It is such a pleasure to do any thing for the aged ; one has such a feeling of respect for those who have the experience of a long life, and are nearing the goal. * * * Yesterday, again, the Emperor Alex- ander spoke to me, really rejoicing that the political complications were clearing peacefully : " Dites a Maman encore une fois comme cela me rejouit, et de savoir comme c'est elle qui tient a la paix. Nous ne •pouvons, nous ne voulons pas nous brouiller avec I'Angleterre. II faudrait etre fou de penser a Con- stantinople ou aux Indes ! " He had tears in his eyes, and seemed so moved, as if a dreadful weight was being lifted off; so happy for the sake of Marie, and Affie, too, that matters were mending. He showed me after dinner the buttons you gave him ; spoke also so affectionately of Bertie. * * * j thought of you — thirty-nine years of rule not to be envied, save for the service one can render one's country and the world in general in such an arduous position. Private individuals are, of course, far the best off — our privileges being more duties than advantages TRIALS. 351 " — and their absence would be no privation compared to the enormous advantasfe of beinof one's own mas- ter, and of being on equahty with most people, and able to know men and the world as they are, and not merely as they please to show themselves to please us. -^ - -^ Darmstadt, July 5th. * * * We dined with Uncle Louis, the Em- peror, etc., and Grand Duke of Weimar, at Seeheim yesterday. The Emperor said he had written to you, but Prince Gortschakoff seemed only half-happy, and said to me : " Franchement puis-je vous le dire, je desirerais voir I'Angleterre grande, forte, decidee dans la politique, comme I'etait Canning et les grands hommes d'etat que j'ai connus en Angleterre il y a quarante ans. La Russie est grande et forte ; que I'Angleterre le soit aussi ; nous n'avons pas besoin de faire attention a tous les petits." He said we made our foreign policy and despatches for the Blue Book, and not an open decided policy before the House of Commons and the world. It may interest you to hear this opinion, as it shows the temper of his policy. September 5th. It is long since I have felt such pain as the death (to me really sudden and unexpected, in spite of the danger inherent in her case) of my good, devoted, kind Emily '^ has caused me. My tears won't cease. Louis, the children, the whole household, all mourn and grieve with me. She was singularly beloved, and richly deserved to be so ! Her devotion and affection to me really knew no bounds. I cannot think what it will be to miss her. I have never been ♦The Hon. Emily Caroline Hardinge, the Princess' Lady-in- Waiting, died in London on the 4th of September, 1876. 352 PRINCESS ALICE. served as she served me, and probably never shall be so again. It is a wrench that only those can esti- mate who knew her well — like poor Mary Hardinge. She came first in Emily's heart, and the loss for her is quite, quite irreparable ! Had I but seen dear Emily again ! This sudden, cruel sort of death shocks me so. How I should have nursed and comforted her had I been near her! She always wished this, and told me she had such a fear of death. There never breathed a more unselfish, Qrenerous, eood character. September 6th. , * * * I fear you will find me so dull, tired, and useless. I can do next to nothing of late, and must rest so much. Poor Emily ! My thoughts never leave her. I cannot yet get accustomed to the thought of her loss. P. S. — Just received your dear note. The accounts of my dear Emily's sad end have just reached me, and I am terribly upset. You can hardly estimate the gap, the blank she will leave — my only lady, and in many ways honime d affaires We had been so much together this last waiting ; every thing reminds me of her, and of the touching love she bore me. Sure- ly some years more she would have lived. Darling Mama, I don't think you quite know how far from well I am, and how absurdly wanting in strength. I only mention it, that you should know that until the good air has set me up I am good for next to nothing ; and I fear I sha'n't be able to come to dinner the first evenings. I hope you won't mind. I have never in my life been like this before. I live on my sofa, and in the air, and see no one, and yet go on losing strength ! Of course this unexpected shock has done me harm too, and has entailed more sad things. * * * TRIALS. 353 Douglas' Hotel, ) Edinburgh, Sunday, September nth. ) * * * I hea*r Ernie is still so dull and melan- choly at missing me ; he always feels it most, with that tender loving heart of his. God preserve and guard this to me so inexpressibly precious child ! I fancy that seldom a mother and child so understood each other, and loved each other, as we two do. It requires no words ; he reads in my eyes, as I do in his, what is in his little heart. It is so wonderfully still here, not a soul in the streets. The people of the house have sent up sev- eral times to enquire when and to what church I was going- ; so I shall go, as it seems to shock them, one's staying away. I shall see the Monument this afternoon, and go and see Holyrood again. The whole journey here brought back with the well-remem- bered scenery the recollection of my childhood, all the happy journeys with dear Papa and you. How the treasured remembrance, with the deep love, lives on, when all else belongs to the past! I seem, in returning here, so near you and him in for- mer happy years, when my home was in this beloved country. No home in the world can quite become what the home of one's parents and childhood was, There is a sacredness about it, a feeling of gratitude and love for the great mercies one had there. You, who never left country, Geschwistcr [kindred], or home, can scarcely enter into this feeling. In the hopes of meeting you soon, kissing your dear hands, with thanks for all goodness, and many excuses for having caused so mush trouble. * .'"' ^ Buckingham Palace, October 19th. I was so sad at parting with you yesterday. I could not half thank you for all your love and kind- 354 FJilNCESS ALICE. ness during' those weeks. But you know how deep- ly I feel it ; how truly grateful I am to you ; how happy and contented I am to be allowed to be near you as in old days. Darling Mama, once more, thousand thanks for all and for every thing! The journey went quite well, and I am not par- ticularly tired. Buckingham Palace, November igth. Thousand thanks for your dear letter received this mornino"! I feel leavinof dear Enorland, as always, though the pleasure of being near the dear children again is very great. Let me thank you once more from my heart, darling Mama, for all your great kindness, and for having enabled me to do what was thought neces- sary and best. I return so much stronger and better than I came, in every way — refreshed by the pleasant stay in dear Balmoral with you, and then much better for the time here. I feel morally re- freshed, too, with the entire change, the many interests to be met with here, which is always so beneficial, and will help me in every way when I get back to Darmstadt. All this I have to thank you for, and do so most warmly. Louis, who, as you know, is full of love and affec- tion for you, is very grateful for your kind words, and has likewise derived profit and enjoyment from his stay in England. -» * * My color and strength have so much returned, that I do not doubt being well again this winter. I went with Dean Stanley to see Mr. Carlyle, who was most interesting, and talked for nearly an hour. Had I had time, I would have written down the con- versation. The Dean said he would try and do so. TRIALS. 355 With Louise I visited Mr. Motley also, who in his way is equally interesting, and has a great charm. * * * ' ,♦ Darmstadt, November 26th. Many thanks for your last letter from Balmoral, received yesterday morning ! I know you feel leav- ing the dear place, but without going away there is no VVicderschcn [meeting again]. The happiness of our meeting with the dear children was very great on all sides — they eat me up ! They had made wreaths over the doors, and had no end of things to tell me. We arrived at three, and there was not a moment's rest till they were all in bed, and I had heard the different prayers and hymns of the six, with all the little different confi- dences they had to make. My heart was full of joy and gratitude at being with them once more, and I prayed God to make me fit to be their real friend and stay as long as they require me, and to have the inslffht into their different characters to oruide them aright, and to understand their different wants and feelings. This is so difficult always. Victoria is immensely grown, and her figure is forming- She is chancjinor so much — bec^innlng to leave the child and grow into the girl. I hear she has been good and desirous of doing what is right ; and she has more to contend with than Ella, there- fore double merit in any thing she overcomes, and any self-sacrifice she makes. Ernie is very well, and his birthday was a great delight. Sweet little May is enchanting, — " my iveet heart," as she calls me. Aliky is very handsome and dear. Darmstadt, December 12th. I see this letter will just arrive on the 14th — day 356 PRINCESS ALICE. never to be forgotten ! How deeply it is graven in my heart — with letters of blood ; for the pain of losing ki7n, and of witnessing your grief, was as sharp as any thing any child can go through for its beloved parents. Yet God's mercy is to be found through all, and one learns to say " Thy will be done," hard though it is. * * * 1877. The health of Prince Charles of Hesse (father of Prince Louis) had for some time past given cause for great anxiety. He had always suffered from violent headaches and a delicate throat. On the evening of the I ith of March he was seized with erysipelas, and died peacefully on the 20th. The Princess shared the grief of her mother-in-law and family most truly ; for Prince Charles, though outwardly shy and retiring, was a man of ereat cultivation and refinement, and had made himself beloved by all who knew him. He was buried in the Mausoleum at the Rosenhohe on the 24th of March. The Grand Duke, who was deeply affected by his brother's death, and all the family were present. A month had scarcely passed since Prince Charles' death, when the Grand Duke himself was attacked by serious illness at Seeheim, one of his summer residences, near Darmstadt, and died on the 13th of June at the age of seventy-one. Prince Louis was the next heir, and ascended the throne as Grand Duke Louis IV. TRIALS. 357 The total change of circumstances, the heavy duties and responsibiHties of her new position, came most unexpectedly upon the Princess, and she scarcely felt herself equal to them. With her well- known conscientiousness and high feeling of duty it was not surprising that they weighed heavily upon her, more especially as her health had of late become very delicate. Still, the hope of being able to carry out many a plan for the welfare of her adopted coun- try encouraged her greatly. After the official receptions held by the Grand Duke and Grand Duchess were over, they left Darmstadt for the quiet little watering-place of Houlgate, in Normandy. The Grand Duke was only able to accompany the Grand Duchess as far as Metz, but he followed her later on with the children. The rest and quiet were good for them all; and, ap- parently much improved in health, the Grand Duch- ess returned for the first time as " mother of the country " \Landesimdta^ to Darmstadt. Her recep- tion was of the warmest and most enthusiastic nature, which she took as a good omen for the future. The Emperor of Germany and the Crown Prince visited Darmstadt at the end of September, for the purpose of assisting at the cavalry manoeuvres, to the great satisfaction of the country. The change in Princess Alice's position in no wise affected her relations to her many charitable institu- tions, though she had, of course, many new respon- sibilities thrown upon her. Her constant endeavor 358 PJilNCESS ALICE. was to be just and free from prejudice, to recognize what was good, no matter where, and to promote and further it to the best of her power. The Grand Dulve and Grand Duchess saw much of the Crown Prince and Crown Princess of Germany during the latter part of the year, as they were living at Wiesbaden. Fraulein Louise Buchner, who had been for ten years so intimately connected with the Grand Duchess, not only as working with her for the good of others, but also by ties of the truest friendship, died on the 28th of November. Her death caused a gap which was sorely felt. A few days before her death, when she was already confined to her bed, she received a letter from the Grand Duchess herself, on the occasion of the tenth anniversary of the opening of the " Alice Bazaar," thanking her for all she had done. The Grand Duchess had caused many of the pamphlets written by Miss Octavia Hill to be trans- lated, in the hopes of encouraging in Darmstadt the authorities, and those at the head of private under- takings, to further exertions for improving the condition of the poor. Whilst in England she had become acquainted with Miss Octavia Hill, " the warm-hearted friend of the poor," and had visited with her many of the poorer parts of London. She felt the sincerest admiration and respect for Miss Hill, and entirely shared her view, " that we must become the friends TRIALS. 359 of the poor to be their benefactors." The Grand Duchess did not .wish to copy exactly in Germany what Miss Hill had done in London : but she hoped that the knowledge of what had been done in other places would be an incentive to work in the same direction. At the beginning of this year the Grand Duchess had visited in strictest incognito the worst houses (in sanitary respects) in Mayence, and determined to make a plan for the erection of new dwellings for the working classes there. Darmstadt, January ist. ■^ * * How beautifully Max Miiller's letter ''MS written and expressed, and how touchingly and truly he puts the point of view on which we all should learn to stand. To become again pure as children, with a child's faith and trust — there where our human intellect will ever stand still ! I have been readinsf some of Robertson's sermons again, and I think his view of Christianity one of the truest, warmest, and most beautiful I know. * ■^ * Darmstadt, March 23d. Thank you so much for your dear and sympathiz- ing letter. These have been most painful — most distressing days — so harrowing. The recollections of 1 861, of dear Frittie's death, when my dear father-in-law was so tender and kind, were painfully vivid. My mother-in-law's resigna- tion and touching goodness, doing all that she could during the illness and since for all arrangements, is very beautiful ! * Written after the death of his daughter. 3^0 PRINCESS ALICE. The poor sons gave way to bursts of tears during those agonizinor hours ; yet they held their father alternately with me, and were quiet and helpful for their mother and for him, just as their simple, quiet natures teach them. I begged Bauerlein to write to you meanwhile. I am feeling so exhausted, and there is so much to do, and we are always goino- from one house to the other. It was heart-rending from Monday morn till Tues- day eve to see the painful alteration in the dear well- known features augmenting from hour to hour, though I believe he did not suffer latterly. He was not conscious, unless spoken to, or called very directly. ^ My mother-in-law never left his bedside day or night, and we were only a few hours absent on Mon- day night. Before we went home she called our names "distincdy to him as we kissed him, and he seemed to notice it ; then she knelt down, and dis- tinctly, but choked with tears, prayed the Lord's Prayer for him, calling him gently. The next day at six we were there again, and till half past six in the evening never left the bedside. She repeated occasionally, as long as she thought he might hear, a short verse — so touching! and once said : " Bist Du traurig ? es ist ja nicht auf lange, dann sind wir wieder zusammen ! " [" Art thou sad? It is not for long, and then we shall be together again "] kissing and stroking his hands. It was very distressing. When all was over we four were close to her, and she threw herself on him, and then clasped her sons to her heart with words of such grief as you so well understand ! Early the next morning we went with her to his TRIALS. 361 room. He lay on his bed, very peaceful, in his uni- form. Louis had clasped the hands together when he died, and I arranged flowers on the bed and in the room round him. There is a terrible deal to do and to arrange, and many people come, and we are much with my poor mother-in-law. Yesterday we went for the last time to see the remains of what had been so precious. She read a " Lied " [a hymn], and then kissed him so long, and took with us the last look. Yesterday evening the coffin was closed in presence of the sons. We are going to the Rosenhohe [the Mausoleum] now, before going to Louis' mother, to put things straight there, and see if one can get by dear Frittie — it is so small. The three brothers are dreadfully upset, but able to arrange and see after what is necessary. Aunt Marie [the Empress of Russia] wanted to come, and is in terrible distress ; she loved that brother beyond any thing. In her last letter to my mother-in-law she says : " Ich habe solche Sehnsucht nach dem alten Bruder " [" I have such a yearning after my old brother "]. His was a singularly delicate-minded, pure, true, unselfish nature, so full of consideration for others, so kind. My tears flow incessantly, for I loved him very dearly. My dear mother-in-law has such a broken, ruined existence now — all turned round him ! She knows where to find strength and comfort — it will not fail her. * * * Darmstadt, June 7th. * * :i: \ye are going through a dreadful ordeal. The whole of Monday and Monday night, with a heat beyond words, dreading the worst. Now there 362 FHINCESS ALICE. has been a slight rally/^= Whether it will continue to-morrow is doubtful. He is always conscious, makes his little jokes, but the pulse is very low and intermits. I was there early this mornino- with Louis. ''' * * The questions, long- discussions between Louis and some people, as to complication and difficulty of every kind that will at once fall upon us, are really dreadful, and I so unfit just now! The confusion will be dreadful. ■'^* * ''" I am so dreading every thing, and above all the responsibility of being the first in every thing, and people are not bienveillant. I shall send you news whenever I can, but I am so worn out. I shall not be able to do so much myself. I know your thoughts and wishes are with us at so hard a time. God grant we may do all ario-ht ! * * * Telegrams. June 7th. Going to Seeheim, as great weakness has come on. Am much tired by all that lies before us, and not feelinof well. Seeheim, 13th. Dear Uncle Louis is no more. We arrived too late. Darmstadt, 6.20 o'clock, 13th. Such press of business and decisions. Feel very tired. 15th. We are both so over-tired ; the press of business and decisions is so wearing, with the new responsi- bility. * The Grand Duke of Hesse was alarmingly ill. TRIALS. 363 i8th. Last ceremony over ! All went off well, and was very moving. Alice. Darmstadt, June 19th. Only two words of thanks from both of us for your kind wishes and letters ! Christian and Colonel Gardiner bring you news of every thing that has been and is still going on. But we are over- whelmed, over-tired, and the heat is getting very bad again. * * * Will tell you what a very difficult posi- tion we are in. It is too dreadful to think that I am forced to leave Louis in a few weeks under present circumstances, but, if he wishes to keep me at all, I must leave every thing and this heat for a time. These next weeks here will be very anxious and difficult. God grant we may do the right things ! June 28th. * ^ * 1 o have to go away just now, when the refreshment of family life is so doubly pleasant to Louis after his work, I am too sorry for. If I were only better ; if I only thought that I shall have the chance of rest, and what is necessary to regain my health ! Now it will be more difficult than ever, and I see Louis has the fear, which I also have, that I shall not hold out very long. July i5tli. * * '•' I leave on Tuesday, but stop on the way. The children go direct and join me in Paris, when we go on together on Friday or Saturday to Houlgate. The trains don't fit, and one has some way to drive from Trouville. Houlgate, July 25th. * * ''' This place is quite charming — real 364 FJi/NCESS ALICE. country, so green, so picturesque — a beautiful coast; the nicest sea-place I have been at yet. Our house is " wee " for so many, and the first days it was very noisy ; and it was so dirty. The maids and nurses had to scrub and sweep ; the one French housemaid was not up to it. All is better now, and quite com- fortable enough. The air is doing me good, and the complete change. I have bathed twice, and the sea revives me. I follow as eagerly as any in England the advance of the Russians, and with cordial dislike. Tkcy can never be redressers of wrongs or promoters of civili- zation and Christianity. What I fear is, even if they don't take Constantinople, and make no large de- mands as the price of their victories now, the decla- ration of the independence of Bulgaria will make that country to them in future what Roumania has been for Russia now, and therefore in twenty years hence they will get all they want, unless the other Powers at this late hour can bring about a change. It is bad for England, for Austria, for Germany, if this Russian Slav element should preponderate in Europe ; and the other countries must sooner or later act against this in self-preservation. What do the friends of the ** Atrocity Meetings " say now ? How difficult it has been made for the Government through them, and how blind they have been ! All this must be a constant worry and anxiety for you ! The children are so happy here — the sea does them such good. I am very glad I brought them. HOULGATE, July 28th. * * * Though w^ have rain off and on, still the weather is very pleasant, and we are all of us charmed with the place, and the beautiful, pictu- TRIALS. 365 resque, fertile country. The life is so pleasant — real country — which I have never yet found at any bathing-place abroad yet. I have bathed every other day — swim, and it does me good. I feel it al- ready. Ella is getting her color back, and the little ones look much better. I send you the last photos done of the children ; Ella's is not favorable, nor Irene's, but ail in all they are a pretty set. May has not such fat cheeks in reality ; still it is very dear. The two little girlies are so sweet, so dear, merry, and nice. I don't know which is dearest, they are both so captivating. I have been to an old tumble-down church at Dives — close by here — where William the Con- queror is said to have been before starting for England. His name and those of all his followers are inscribed there — names of so many families now existing in England. It was very interesting. August 22d. * * * How difficult it is to know one's children well ; to develop and train the characters according to their different peculiarities and require- ments ! * * * Darmstadt, September 9th. * * * I must tell you now, how very heartily and enthusiastically the whole population, high and low, received us yesterday. It was entirely sponta- neous, and, as such, of course, so very pleasing. **='=! was really touched, for it rained, and yet all were so joyous — flags out, bells ringing, people bombarding us with beautiful nosegays ; all the schools out, even the higher ones, the girls all dressed in white. The Kriegerverein, Louis' old soldiers, singing, etc. In the evening all the Gesang- 366 PRINCESS ALICE. vereine joined together and sang under our win- dows. We are very glad to be at home again, and, please God, with earnest will and thought for others, we together shall in our different ways be able to live for the good of the people entrusted to our care ! May God's blessing rest on our joint endeav- ors to do the best, and may we meet with kindness and forbearance where we fall short of our duties. Darmstadt, October 30th, * * * I had to receive sixty-five ladies — amongst them my nurses — and some doctors from here and other towns, all belonging to my Nursing Society, which has now existed ten years. Then I was at the opening of my Industrial Girls' School, where girls from all parts of the country come, and which is a great success. I started it two years ago. On Sunday I took the children to hear the Sunday- school, which interested them very much. I have been doing too much lately, though, and my nerves are beginning to feel the strain, for sleep and appetite are no longer good. Too much is de- manded of one ; and I have to do with so many things. It is more than my strength can stand in the long run. * * * December 13th. For to-morrow, as ever, my tenderest sympathy ! Time shows but more and more what we all lost in beloved Papa ; and the older I grow, the more peo- ple I know, the more the remembrance of him shines bright as a star of purer lustre than any I have ever known. May but a small share of his light fall on some of us, who have remained so far beneath him, so little worthy of such a father! We can but admire, TRIALS. 367 reverence, long to imitate, and yet not approach near to what he was. We are going with the children to-day to Wiesba- den until Saturday ; and I mean to tell Vicky that she had better give up the hope of my being able to come for the wedding."^ I could not do it. I only trust the why will be understood. Do write to the dear Empress about it when next you write. How sorry I am to be absent at a moment when, as sister and a German Sovereign's wife, I should be there ; but the doctor would not hear of it, so I gave it up. " " ^' Darmstadt, December 21st. * * * You say all that happened after the dreadful 14th is effaced from your memory. How well I can imagine that ! I remember saying my utmost to Sir Charles Phipps in remonstrance to your being wished to leave Windsor — it was so cruel, so very wrong. Uncle Leopold insisted ; it all came from him, and he was alarmed lest you should fall ill. Hoiv you suffered was dreadful to witness ; never shall I forget what I went through for you then ; it tore my heart in pieces ; and my own grief was so great too. Louis thought I would not hold to my engagement then any more — for my heart was too filled with beloved, adored Papa, and with your anguish, to have room or wish for other thoughts. God is very merciful in letting time temper the sharpness of one's grief, and letting sorrow find its natural place in our hearts, without withdrawing us from life! * Of the Princess Charlotte of Prussia with the Hereditary Prince of Saxe-Meiaingen. THE END. 1878. " Life is serious — a journey to another end." {December 12, 1874.) THE state of the Grand Duchess' health pre- vented her from accompanying the Grand Duke to Rerhn on the occasion of the marriages of Princess Charlotte of Prussia (eldest daughter of the Crown Prince and Princess of Germany) to the Hereditary Prince of Saxe-Meiningen, and of Princess Elizabeth of Prussia (sister to the Duchess of Connaught) to the Hereditary Grand Duke of Oldenburo". Althouofh she was unable to