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GRAND DUCHESS OF HESSE
PRINCESS
OF
GREAT BRITAIN AND IRELAND
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH AND LETTERS
WITH PORTRAIT
NEW YORK & LONDON
G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS
%\^t Jlnukcrboclur |3rtss
1885
Press of
G. P. Putnam'' s Sons
New York
f\3 fl^-
TO
HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS
THE HEREDITARY GRAND DUKE
AND TO
THEIR GRAND DUCAL HIGHNESSES
THE PRINCESSES
VICTORIA, ELIZABETH, IRENE, ALIX
OF HESSE AND BY RHINE
m
CONTENTS.
Preface. By Her Royal Highness Princess Chris-
tian vii
Childhood and Girlhood, 1843-62 . . . . ii
In Her New Home, 1862-65.
1862 31
1863 ......... 49
1864 71
1865 88
At Home and at Work, 1866-72.
1866 ......... 123
1867 168
1868 199
1869 ......... 216
1870 235
1871 266
1872 284
Trials, 1873-1877.
1873 300
1874 . ; 321
1875 339
1876 . o ...... . 348
1877 . 356
V
VI
CONTENTS.
The End, 1878
Concluding Remarks
<, . . , 368
Appendix.
A Watcher by the Dead 391
A Sketch in Memoriam, December 14, 1878. By
Sir Theodore Martin, K.(Z;.B. , . . 398
Lines in Memoriam ...... 406
'^'"'^'^'X
PREFACE.
THE great affection with which my dear Sister
has ever been regarded in this country, and
the universal feehng of sympathy shown at the time
of her death, lead me to hope that the publication of
this volume may not be unwelcome, containing as it
does extracts from her letters to my Mother, togeth-
er with a brief record of her married life.
The short Memoir here translated from the Ger-
man, with which the letters are interwoven, was
written, as will be seen at a glance, not as present-
ing any thing like a complete picture of my Sister's
character and opinions, but merely as a narrative of
such of the incidents of her life as were necessary to
illustrate and explain the letters themselves.
In these days, when the custom has become gen-
eral of publishing biographies of all persons of note
or distinction, it was thought advisable, in order that
a true picture might be given of my Sister, that a
short sketch of her life should be prepared by some
one who was personally known to her, and who
appreciated the many beautiful features of her char-
vu
Vlll FHINCESS ALICE.
acter. The choice fell upon a clergyman at Darm-
stadt, Dr. Sell.
It would have been premature and out of place to
attempt any thing like a complete picture of a char-
acter so many-sided, or of my Sister's opinions on
the affairs of Europe, in which she took the deepest
interest, and on which she formed opinions remark-
able for breadth and sagacity of view. The domestic
side of her nature might alone for the present be
freely dealt with ; and to help Dr. Sell in delineating
this, my Mother selected for his guidance the extracts
from my Sister's letters to her which appear in the
present volume. There was no thought at first of
making these extracts public, but they were found to
be so beautiful, and to be so true an expression of
what my Sister really was, that, in compliance with
the request of the Grand Duke her husband, they
were allowed to be translated and published, so that
her subjects might see in them how great reason
they had to love her whom they had lost.
The letters in their original form are here given
to the English public, and I am sure that all who
read them will feel thankful to my Mother for thus
granting them a closer insight into my dear Sister's
beautiful and unselfish life.
They will see in them also, with satisfaction, how
devoted she was to the land of her birth, — how her
heart ever turned to it with reverence and affection
as the country which had done and was doing
for Liberty and the advancement of mankind more
PREFACE. IX
than any other country in the world. How deep
was her feelfhg in this respect was testified by
a request, which she made to her husband in antici-
pation of her death, that an Enghsh flag might
be laid upon her coflin ; accompanying the wish
with a modest expression of a hope, that no one in
the land of her adoption could take umbrage at her
desire to be borne to her rest with the old English
colors above her.
In any case I feel confident that the perusal of
these letters must deepen the love and admiration
which have always been felt for my beloved Sister in
this country, where she ever thanked God that
her childhood and youth had been tended with
a wise love, that had fostered and developed all
those qualities and tastes which she most valued and
strove to cultivate in her later years.
I had written these words, when another beloved
member of our family, whose name often recurs
in my Sister's letters, was suddenly taken from
us, and from our country. Writing of my dear
Brother to my Mother (February i, 1868) she said :
" May God spare that young bright and gifted life to
be a comfort to you for many a year to come ! "
That life, which then hung trembling in the balance,
was mercifully spared, not indeed for many a year,
but lone enough to make my Brother more beloved
by his family and friends, and to enable him to give
to his country some token of the good gifts with
PJilNCESS ALICE.
which he was endowed. As he was the last of
us to see my dear Sister in Hfe, so he has been the
first to follow her into the Silent Land.
HELENA.
Cumberland Lodge :
15M April, 1884.
"ff^nr
PRINCESS ALICE.
CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD.
1843-1862.
" I ever look back to my childhood and girlhood as the happiest time of
life."— (13^^^ /«''^''. 1S69.)
PRINCESS ALICE, as she is ever called in
England, was born at Buckingham Palace on
the 25th of April, 1843. She was the third child and
second daughter of Queen Victoria and Albert, Prince
Consort. At her christening, which took place at the
Palace on the 2d of June, she received the names
of Alice Maud Mary. Princess Sophia Matilda of
Gloucester, niece of King George III., and sister-in-
law to the Duchess of Gloucester, was one of her
godmothers, and her Royal parents chose the name
of Maud, which is the same as Matilda, on account
of its being an old English name borne by the Em-
press Maud, and other British princesses. The name
of " Mary " was chosen because the little princess was
born on the Duchess of Gloucester's birthday.
The Archbishop of Canterbury officiated at the
christening. The sponsors : the reigning King
II
12 PRINCESS ALICE.
of Hanover, Ernest Augustus ; the Hereditary
Prince of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha ; Princess Sophia
Matilda of Gloucester, sister-in-law to the Duchess
of Gloucester, niece of George III.; and Feodora,
Princess of. Hohenlohe-Langenburg, half-sister to
the Oueen.
The christeninsf was, as the Oueen herself told
her uncle, the King of the Belgians, when writing to
him on the 6th of June, "a very imposing ceremony.
Nothing could have gone off better, and little Alice
behaved extremely well." '^
Though twenty-two years only have passed since
the wholly unexpected death of Prince Albert de-
prived the Queen of her devoted husband, the Roy-
al children of a most loving and beloved father, and
the whole nation of one of its wisest counsellors, his
life, in the admirable biographical memorial by Sir
Theodore Martin, forms already part of history,
and by it we are enabled to form a just estimate of
the perfect character and great intellectual abilities
of the Prince, whom his daughter. Princess Alice,
revered throup-h life as her hio^hest ideal.
Prince Albert, the second son of the then reigning
Duke of Coburg, was the very picture of manly chiv-
alrous beauty. He was very young, not yet twenty-
one years old, when he became the Consort of the
Queen of England, who was only three months old-
er. But by his strength of character and rare ener-
gy of intellect, combined with a thorough self-con-
* " Life of Prince Consorl," by Sir Theodore Martin, vol. i., p. i66.
CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 1 3
trol and an unswerving devotion to the duties of
his position, he' succeeded in gaining the love and
esteem of a nation which, though it keeps watch
over its rights and privileges with peculiar jealousy,
knows also how to show great generosity, when
once it has learnt to trust and to love.
With his wonderful power of mastering new and
difficult subjects he made himself familiar with the
history and policy, the social and agricultural condi-
tions, the industries and commercial relations of his
adopted country. In his position of intimate confi-
dential adviser to the Sovereign he showed the
greatest tact, and gained the affection and respect of
the Ministers who succeeded one another at the
head of affairs ; whilst the more he became known
the more his genuine worth was appreciated by the
nation at large.
Chief of all, two nations have acknowledged with
grateful admiration, that under his influence there
grew up in the midst of the most brilliant Court in
Europe a domestic family life, so perfect in its purity
and charm that it might well serve for a bright ex-
ample to every home in the land. Whilst sharing
with the Sovereiofn all the labors and cares of state,
the Prince made suitable changes and practical ar-
rangements in the Royal Household, and, by stead-
ily adhering to principles which he had at once recog-
nized as the best, he succeeded in making life happy
and peaceful to all around him. Thus it was that
the Royal Family of England, whether residing in
14 PRINCESS ALICE.
the splendid palaces at Windsor, in London, or at
Osborne, the lovely country seat in the Isle of
Wight, or at Balmoral, surrounded by the sterner
scenery of the Scotch Highlands, was enabled to
enjoy a life of perfect tranquillity amidst the political
tempests of the most turbulent decade of our times.
The childhood of the Princess Alice was a very
happy one, and much favored by circumstances.
When she was a year old, her father mentioned her
as "the beauty of the family," and as an extremely
good and merry child. Her mother adds, " she was
a very vain little person."
She developed naturally. At first she was not
thought to be so highly gifted as later years proved
her to be. Her father often used to speak of her as
" poor dear litde Alice," as if he had to take her
part. She soon became a great favorite with all
around her. Lady Lyttleton, who up to i85i was
entrusted with the supervision of the Royal children,
and to whose pen we owe so many accounts of that
happy family life, writes as follows on the little
Princess' fourth birthday :
" Dear Princess Alice is too pretty, in her low
frock and pearl necklace, tripping about and blushing
and smiling at her honors. The whole family, in-
deed, appear to advantage on birthdays ; no trades-
man or country squire can keep one with such
hearty simple affection and enjoyment. One
present I think we shall all wish to live farther off:
a live lamb, all over pink ribbons and bells. He is
already the greatest pet, a,s one may suppose.
CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 1 5
" Princess Alice's pet lamb is the cause of many
tears. He will, .not take to his mistress, but runs
away lustily, and will soon butt at her, though she is
most coaxy, and said to him in her sweetest tones,
after kissing his nose often, ' Milly, dear Milly ! do
you like me ? '
One of the main principles observed in the educa-
tion of the Royal children was this — that though
they received the best training, of body and mind, to
fit them for the high position they would eventually
have to fill, they should in nowise come in contact
with the actual Court life. The children were
scarcely known to the Queen's ladies-in-waiting, as
they only now and then made their appearance for
a moment after dinner at dessert, or accompanied
their parents out driving. The care of them was ex-
clusively entrusted to persons who possessed the
Oueen and Prince Consort's entire confidence, and
with whom they could at all times communicate
direct. The Royal parents kept themselves thor-
oughly informed of the minutest detail of what was
being done for their children in the way of training
and instruction.
After the first years of childhood were past, the
Royal children were placed under the care of Eng-
lish, French, and German governesses, who, again,
were under a Lady Superintendent, and accompanied
the children in their walks and watched over them
during their games.
To the lessons in foreign languages, music and
drawing were soon added, for which the young
1 6 FJilNCESS ALICE.
Princess showed a decided talent.* " Her copy-
books were always neatness itself, and she wrote a
very pretty hand." " Fresh, blooming, and healthy,
escaping most of the illnesses of childhood, cheerful,
merry, full of fun and mischief," she delighted in all
bodily exercises, such as gymnastics, skating, etc.
Above all, she was passionately fond of riding and
of horses. She preferred playing with her brothers,
and was bold and fearless as a boy. With all this,
however, she soon showed proofs of real kindness of
heart and of tender consideration for others. " I re-
member well," a former dresser of the Oueen's re-
lates, " meeting the Royal children playing in the
corridor, and, as I passed on, the Prince of Wales
making a joke about my great height, the Princess
said to her brothers, but so that I should hear it : 'It
is very nice to be tall ; Papa would like us all to be
tall.' " " Her kindness of heart showed itself in all
her actions when a child. Whenever she in the
least suspected that anybody's feelings had been
hurt, she always tried to make things smooth again."
" At Christmastime she was most anxious to give
pleasure to everybody, and bought presents for each
with her own pocket-money. She once gave me a
little pincushion, and on another occasion a basket,
and wrote on a little card with a colored border (al-
ways in German for me) ' For dear Frida [now
Madame Muller], from Alice,' and brought it to me
herself on Christmas Eve. I felt that she had
* The memoranda in this paragraph are communicated by the Crown
Princess of Germany.
CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 1 7
thought how much I must have missed my home
that day." '»■
The first journeys on which she, with her elder
sister and brother, was allowed to accompany her
parents are vividly described in the Queen's Journal.
They were those to Ireland, in 1849, and, in i85o,
to the Highlands ; and to the beauty and grandeur
of Highland scenery she remained through life an
enthusiastic devotee.
Her intellectual faculties and the deeper qualities
of her character did not, in her case, as, indeed, gen-
erally happens with high-spirited, healthy children,
develop very early ; but almost from the first she
showed those qualities of disposition which win all
hearts and lend a charm to daily life.
Little theatrical pieces performed by the Royal
children on festive anniversaries in the family — partly,
too, with a view of gaining facility in foreign lan-
guages — were the field in which the young Princess
decidedly distinguished herself. No child ever per-
formed the part of the High Priest Joad in Racine's
" Athalie," with more dignity, and with a more pleas-
inor intonation ; and a more deliorhtful German Red
Ridinghood '"^ than the Princess never appeared
upon the stage.
Of one of these performances, given in honor of
the Queen and Prince's wedding-day in 1854, Bar-
oness Bunsen gives the following description in her
biography of Baron Bunsen. A tableau represent-
* In a little piece of that name by Madame Jonas.
1 8 PRINCESS ALICE.
ing the Four Seasons had been studied and con-
trived by the Royal children. " First appeared
Princess Alice as the Spring, scattering flowers, and
reciting verses, which were taken from Thomson's
' Seasons ' ; she moved gracefully, and spoke in a
distinct and pleasing manner with excellent modula-
tion, and a tone of voice sweet and penetrating like
that of the Queen." *
It was during these years that Princess Alice
formed her warm friendship for the Princess Louise
of Prussia, now Grand Duchess of Baden, who re-
cords her first impressions of the young Princess in
the following words :
" She was at that time most graceful in appear-
ance — charming, merry, and amiable ; and though
always occupying a subordinate place to her very
gifted and distinguished sister, there never was the
least semblance of a disao-reement. Alice's cheerful
disposition and her great power of observation
showed themselves very early in the pleasantest
manner, and she had a remarkable gift of making
herself attractive to others. Her individuality was
less decided and prominent than that of her sister,
and she had a special charm of childhood grace.
Our walks and drives together, the life in the school-
room, the games in the corridors, or in dear old
Baron Stockmar's room — these and all the pleasure
and enjoyment of being together with the two sis-
ters will ever remain amongst the happiest and most
lasting of my recollections."
The opening of the First Great Exhibition in
*Bunsen's " Life," ii., 32S.
CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. I9
1 85 1 — Prince Albert's own creation — was the occa-
sion of a visit of the Prince of Prussia (the present
Emperor of Germany) and his family to the English
Court. This visit was repeated in 1853. Meanwhile
an active correspondence had sprung up between
the young friends, in which Princess Alice took a
most active part.
" Alice was now drawn more into the circle of
the grown-up members of the family ; but, in
spite of this, she retained all the fascination of her
charming graceful ways. A great vein of humor
showed itself in her, as well as a certain sharpness
in criticising people who were not congenial to her.
Many a little conflict took place in the schoolroom ;
but while the individualities of the sisters became
more and more distinct, their happy relations to one
another remained unchanged. She was a great fav-
orite with her brothers and sisters, though they
knew she was fond of mischief.
" To a naturally engaging manner quite excep-
tional joyousness and power of showing affectionate
emotion imparted an especial charm, which revealed
itself in the fine lines of her face, in her graceful
movements, and a certain inborn nobleness and dig-
nity. Her attachment to my parents, * Uncle Prus-
sia ' and ' Aunt Prussia,' was truly touching."
In 1 855 Princess Alice had her first serious illness
— scarlet fever — caught from her younger sister,
Princess Louise. She recovered easily, but for some
time afterward a certain delicacy was observable.
The accounts at that time are unanimous in describ-
ing the peculiarly sweet development of her disposi-
20 FlilNCESS ALICE.
tion, and the manifestation of a true womanly inter-
est in the works of charity and mercy. The feehng
of acting independently for the good of others had
been aroused in many ways in the Royal children.
The Swiss Cottage at Osborne, in like manner, with
its museum, kitchen, store-room, and little gardens,
was made the means of learning how to do house-
hold work, and to direct the management of a small
establishment.
The parents were invited there as guests, to par-
take of the dishes which the Princesses themselves
prepared ; and there, too, each child was allowed
to choose its own occupation, and to enjoy perfect
liberty.
The life in the Highlands, free from the restraint
of Court life, brought the Royal children into closer
contact with the humbler classes, and called into
play their sympathies for the poor.
They were permitted to visit the humblest cot-
tages — nay, even encouraged to do so. There it
was, no doubt, that a feeling of pity for and an ardent
desire to help the poor, the sick, and the needy,
were first aroused in the Princess. We know how
these early impressions led in later life to her found-
ing some of the noblest and most beneficent insti-
tutions.
The blessings of a happy family life, — which gen-
erally those only are allowed to enjoy who live in
happy obscurity from the great world, — were fully
appreciated by the Princess, as we may see from her
CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 21
later letters, abounding in gratitude to her parents
and brothers and sisters, and from the frequent
references which she makes to this period of her
life.
The visits of the grandchildren to their beloved
grandmother, the Duchess of Kent, old in years but
young in spirit, at her residences at Frogmore (near
Windsor), and Abergeldie (near Balmoral), had a
peculiar charm for them.
The first excursion the Princess made out of her
native land was to Cherbourg,* when, with her
brothers and sisters, she accompanied her parents.
The lovely scenery about Cherbourg has become
familiar to us through the descriptions given by the
Queen.
A great change in the life of the Princess took
place through the engagement of the Princess Royal
to Prince Frederick William of Prussia. Hitherto
the Princess had in a great measure shared her sis-
ter's studies and artistic occupations, and had had
the same companions, taking quietly and naturally
the second place. Now her sister's departure for a
new home wrought an entire change in her life,
throwing upon her, as it did, new responsibilities as
now the eldest daughter at home, and placing her in
a new position in relation to her parents, and par-
ticularly to her father, whose constant care it was
to imbue her with that sincerity and earnestness of
purpose without which, to use his friend Baron
* In 1857. See the " Life of the Prince Consort," vol. iv.
22 PRINCESS ALICE.
Stockmar's words, " it was impossible to fill one's
position in life happily, worthily, and with dignity."
The closer intercourse with her father laid the
foundation of that deep and intelligent love of plastic
art and of music, for which she had already as a
child shown a decided talent. Her appreciation of
all that was best in the arts was fostered by the
many treasures by which she was surrounded
at Windsor Castle, and also by prosecuting her
studies and practice in music along with the Prince
Consort.
The many great and stirring events of those
years, the disturbance of Europe through the
Revolutions of 1848 and 1849, and the Crimean
war, took place when the Princess was already
old enough to feel their gravity ; and served to
awaken and foster the keen interest which she took
in later years in all political occurrences.
Another great European conflict was approaching,
just about the time of her Confirmation, which took
place on the 21st of April, 1859. Besides having
been prepared for it by the Dean of Windsor (the
Hon. and Very Rev. G. Wellesley), the Prince Con-
sort himself had given the Princess instructions, as
he had previously done to the Princess Royal, from
"A manual of Religion and of the History of the
Christian Church," by Carl Gottlieb Bretschneider
(formerly, " General Superintendent " in Gotha).
The Prince's object in this was to encourage her in
serious thought, and in independent reflections on
religious questions.
CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 23
The ceremony of the Confirmation, which was
performed by the Archbishop of Canterbury, had
barely . been conckided, when the news arrived
of the threatened invasion of Sardinia by Austria,
which finally ended in the Austro- Italian war, so
disastrous to Austria, of iSSq.
The Queen makes the following remarks on this
event, in a letter to her uncle, the King of the Bel-
cjians :
" "^ * * But this did not in the least disturb
our dear child's equanimity. She was in a most
devotional state of mind — quiet, gentle, self-pos-
sessed, and deeply impressed by the importance
and solemnity of the event. She answered admir-
ably at her examination, and went through the
ceremony in a very perfect manner." '''•
Not long before this the Oueen had cfiven her own
opinion of her daughter in the following words :
" She is very good, gentle, sensible, and amiable,
and a real comfort to me. I shall not let her marry
as long as I can reasonably delay her doing so." f
In June i860 the Queen and Prince Consort
received numerous guests at Windsor Castle for the
Ascot races, amongst others the King of the Bel-
gians and the two Princes, Louis and Henry of
Hesse, the sons of Prince Charles of Hesse and
nephews of the reigning Grand Duke. After they
had left England, the Prince Consort mentioned
to his valued friend Baron Stockmar, that there was
* "Life of the Prince Consort," vol. iv., p. 429. \ Ibid., p. 427.
24 PRINCESS ALICE.
no doubt that Prince Louis and Princess Alice
had formed a mutual liking, and that he quite
expected it would lead to further advances from the
young Prince's family.
Judging by the favorable impression which the
the manly and attractive Prince of twenty-three had
made, the probable result was eagerly looked for.
Before long a letter from Princess Frederick Wil-
liam from Berlin announced that she had been in
communication with Prince Louis' mother, Princess
Charles of Hesse (cousin of the Prince Regent of
Prussia), who had informed her of her son's great
admiration for her sister. It was arranged that,
after the journey of the Queen and Prince Consort
to Germany that autumn, the young Prince should
pay a second visit to England ; and leave of ab-
sence for him was to be obtained from the Prince
Regent of Prussia.* This was done, and he arrived
at Windsor Castle in November. On the 30th of
November the Oueen wrote as follows in her
Diary :
« « * * After dinner, whilst talking to the
gentlemen, I perceived Alice and Louis talking
before the fireplace more earnestly than usual, and
when I passed to go to the other room, both came
up to me, and Alice in much agitation said he had
proposed to her, and he begged for my blessing. I
could only squeeze his hand and say ' Certainly,'
and that we would see him in our room later. Got
* Prince Louis of Hesse VA'as at this time serving in the Prussian Guards
at Potsdam.
CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 25
through the evening working as well as we could.
Alice came to our room * * * agitated, but
quiet. * " '^' Albert sent for Louis to his room ;
he werft' first to him and then called Alice and me
in. * ''' '•' Louis has a warm, noble heart. We
embraced our dear Alice, and praised her much to
him. He pressed and kissed my hand, and I em-
braced him. After talking a litde, we parted ; a
most touching, and to me most sacred, moment." *
As this was entirely a marriage of affection, the
happiness of the " young people " was very great.
Prince Louis stayed over Christmas, which this
year seemed brighter to the whole family, from the
accession of what her father termed " a beloved
newly-bestowed full-grown son." " Our dear Bride-
groom," as the Prince Consort calls the young
Prince, left on the 28th of December. The parting
was tearful, but full of hope, as he was to return in
the spring.
During the first happy weeks after her engage-
ment, Princess Alice had spent the greater part of her
evenings with her beloved grandmother, the Duchess
of Kent, either reading or playing on the piano to
her, as the Duchess' health did not allow of her
dining at Windsor Castle.
The Duchess' condition had become worse during-
the first months of the new year (186 1), and she died
on the 1 6th of March at the age of seventy-four, in
the presence of her beloved and loving daughter,
whose happiness and affection had been the joy of
* " Life of the Prince Consort," vol. v., p. 253.
26 PRINCESS ALICE.
her life, and also of her equally beloved son-in-law,
and the Princess Alice. On this sad occasion, which
she felt most deeply, Princess Alice showed the
comfort and help she was fitted to be to her family
in times of sorrow and anxiety.
The Queen communicated to Parliament in a
" Message " the contemplated marriage of the Prin-
cess. The announcement was received with general
satisfaction. When, shortly afterward, the question
of the Princess' " settlement " was laid before the
House of Commons, the dowry of 30,000/., with an
annuity of 6,000/., was voted without a dissentient
voice. " She will not," writes her careful father,
" be able to do ereat thingfs with it."
In May, Prince Louis arrived at Osborne on a
visit. Soon after, however, he fell ill with the
measles. Prince Leopold caught them from him,
and was very seriously ill.
In the following month the whole family were for
the last time together, including the two sons-in-law*
and the two grandchildren from Potsdam.
Prince Louis paid another visit to England in Sep-
tember, when he took part in those delightful expe-
ditions in the Hio^hlands, which were to be the last
the Prince Consort made.f
In December, in the midst of preparations which
he was making for Princess Alice's future household,
and for a journey of her brother. Prince Leopold, to
* This is not quite correct. Prince Louis had left for Germany before the
others arrived.
f See " Leaves from a Journal," p. 204, et seq.
CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 2/
Cannes, the Prince Consort fell ill. Princess Alice
was often with h^r father during his illness, reading
to hin>, and in intimate communication with her
mother. Soon, however, the illness developed into
low fever, and the Prince, worn out by over-work
and anxiety, had not strength to resist it, and died
peacefully on the 14th of December, in the presence
of the Queen, the Prince of Wales, and the Prin-
cesses Alice and Helena. During the days of un-
speakable sorrow which followed upon the death of
the Prince Consort, it was Princess Alice above all
who was a real support to her broken-hearted
mother. The unanimous opinion of eye-witnesses
as to what the Princess went through and achieved
at this time is truly astonishing.
" Herself filled with the intensest sorrow at her
beloved father's death — and what a father ! what a
head of a family ! what a friend and adviser to his
wife and children ! — she at once took into her own
hands every thing that was necessary in those first
dark days of the destruction of that happy home.
All communications from the Ministers and house-
hold passed through the Princess' hands to the
Queen, then bowed down by grief. She endeav-
ored in every way possible, either verbally or by
writing, to save her mother all trouble. The decision
to leave Windsor for Osborne directly after the
Prince's death, accordino- to the ursrent wish of the
King of the Belgians, and which it was so difficult
and painful for the Queen to make, was obtained by
the Princess' influence."
The gay, bright girl seemed all at once to have
chanofed into the thous^htful woman.
28 PRINCESS ALICE.
" It was the very intimate intercourse with the
sorrowing Queen at that time which called forth in
Princess Alice that keen interest and understanding
in politics for which she was afterward so distin-
guished. She also gained at this time that practical
knowledofe for orofanizing", and the desire for constant
occupation, which in her public as well as in her
private life became part of herself. The Princess
suddenly developed into a wise far-seeing woman,
living only for others, and beloved and respected by
the highest as well as by the lowest. *
It was at this time that the Times said of the Prin-
cess :
" It is impossible to speak too highly of the
strength of mind and self-sacrifice of the Princess
Alice during these dreadful days. Her Royal High-
ness has certainly understood, that it was her duty to
be the help and support of her mother in her great
sorrow, and it was in a great measure due to her
that the Queen has been able to bear with such
wonderful resignation the irreparable loss that so
suddenly and terribly befell her."
The young "bridegroom" did not remain absent
in those days, but arrived without delay.
A touching trait is told by the same near relation
of the Princess whose memorandum has just been
quoted. As she was placing wreaths and flowers on
the dear dead Prince, and both knelt down near him,
she said in a heart-rending voice, " Oh ! dear Molly,
let us pray to God to give us back dear Papa ! "
The letters published in this volume will show
* Memorandum by the Grand Duchess of Baden.
CHILDHOOD AND GIRLHOOD. 29
that the feeling of that irreparable loss never left her
through life, and our impression cannot be a false
one, that it was this loss which brought out the deep
earnestness of her character, and which made her
feel that life was no light thing, but a time of proba-
tion to be spent in earnest work and conscientious
fulfilment of duty.
She felt it to be a sacred duty to foster the recol-
lections of her girlhood, and to carry out the princi-
ples with which her father had embued her, whether
in the cultivation of art and science, the encourage-
ment of art manufactures, of agriculture and general
education, in the tasteful and practical arrangement
of her own house, in bettering the conditions of the
lower and working classes by improving their homes
and inculcating principles of health, economy, and
domestic management. In short, in everyway open
to her, did the Princess try to walk in her father's
footsteps, and so to do honor to his memory.
It is but natural that during the first weeks of her
first great sorrow, and of her many new duties, the
thought of her own future should have been put into
the background. The preparations for her marriage,
however, as well as for her household were contin-
ued, according to the known intentions of the Prince
Consort. The marriage was solemnized at Osborne
on the I St of July at one o'clock. The Archbishop
of York performed the ceremony in the absence of
the Archbishop of Canterbury, who was prevented
by illness from being present.
30 PRINCESS ALICE.
Besides her sorrowing mother, the Crown Prince
of Prussia, all her brothers and sisters, the parents
and brothers and sisters of the bridegroom, and a
number of princely relations were present. The
Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha, in the place of her fa-
ther, led the bride to the altar, whilst the bridegroom
was accompanied by his brother. Prince Henry. At
the conclusion of the ceremony, the Queen withdrew
to her room. The guests left the Isle of Wight in
the afternoon, whilst the newly-married pair went
with a small suit to St. Clare, near Ryde (belonging
to Colonel and Lady Catherine Harcourt), where
they remained three days.
On the 9th of July, Prince and Princess Louis of
Hesse left England, accompanied by the fervent
prayers and good wishes of a devoted people, who
never forgot what their Princess had been to them
in their hour of trouble.
What they felt found apt expression in the fol-
lowing sonnet, which appeared in Punch at the time :
Dear to us all by those calm and earnest eyes.
And early thought upon that fair young brow ;
Dearer for that where grief was heaviest, thou
Wert sunshine, till He passed where suns shall rise
And set no more ; thou, in affection wise
And strong, wert strength to Her who even but now
In the soft accents of thy bridal vow
Heard music of her own heart's memories.
Too full of love to own a thought of pride
Is now thy gentle bosom ; so 't is best :
Yet noble is thy choice, O Englisli bride !
And England hails the bridegroom and the guest
A friend — a friend well loved by him who died.
He blessed your troth : your wedlock shall be blessed.
IN HER NEW HOME.
1862-1865.
" Our life is a very, very happy one. I have nothing on earth to wish
for. . . . To be able to make a Ijiight and comlortable home for my
dear husband is my constant aim." — (14//; Feb.-ist March, 1S64.)
1862.
MEANWHILE sorrow had fallen on the Grand
Ducal family of Hesse also. Some weeks
before the Princess' marriage (May 2 5), the Grand
Duchess of Hesse (Princess of Bavaria) had died —
a woman beloved for her amiable and generous
qualities, deeply regretted by her husband, the
Grand Duke Louis III., and mourned by all who
knew her, high as well as low. Nevertheless,
preparations had been made to give a brilliant re-
ception to the newly- married pair. The whole
country looked forward with anxiety to the arrival
of the young Princess, of whom so much had been
heard, and who, though English, was known to have
a thoroughly sympathetic feeling for Germany.
The Prince and Princess made a short stay at
Brussels, and arrived at Bingen, on the Hessian fron-
tier, on the 1 2th of July.
A special train took them on to Mayence, where
the first official reception took place. The Rhine
31
32 PRINCESS ALICE.
was crossed in a gaily-decorated steamer, and at the
last station before Darmstadt the Grand Duke and
all the family received the Prince and Princess and
accompanied them to Darmstadt.
At half-past four in the afternoon the young mar-
ried couple made their state entry into the town,
through streets decorated with triumphal arches,
flags, and flowers, amidst the peals of bells and the
enthusiastic cheers of the assembled crowds, receiv-
ing and acknowledging the many marks of respect
and affection with which they were greeted.
A mounted guard of honor headed the procession.
The schools, the different guilds, the choral societies,
the Turnvereine (gymnastic societies), and thousands
of towm and country folk lined the streets through
which the Prince and Princess passed.
The impression produced on every one by the
young Princess' grace and sweet maidenly beauty,
and bright winning, yet truly dignified, manner, was
very great, and inspired the fairest hopes of what
she would prove in her new home. What her own
first impressions of that home were are given in the
letters which follow.
The circumstances of her new life were certainly
very different from those to which she had been ac-
customed as an English Princess. What she may
have felt more keenly, as time went on, in the small
but often-recurring differences between English and
German life, did not oppress her at first. She had
determined to make herself at home in her husband's
IN HER NEW HOME. 33
country, and she soon contrived to stamp on every
room in her h»use the impress of her fine taste.
That bouse was of the most unpretending character,
situated in a quiet quarter of the town, near the
palace of Prince and Princess Charles of Hesse.
They had few servants besides those who came
with them from England.
A short visit to her uncle at Coburg, a lengthened
stay at Auerbach, — where the Prince and Princess
had a small country house lent them by the Grand
Duke, — and excursions to Heidelberg and Carlsruhe,
occupied the Summer months. In September they
went to Rheinhardtsbrunn in Thuringia to meet the
Queen, and it was then setded that they should
spend the winter and spring in England with Her
Majesty. The house the Prince and Princess were
living in at Darmstadt was so small, that plans had
at once to be made for a new palace of their own.
On the loth of November they left Darmstadt,
travelling by Coblenz and Cologne to Antwerp.
Here the Queen's yacht, " Victoria and Albert "
awaited them, and brought them to England, where
they met with a most hearty reception from all classes.
Royal Yacht, July 9th.
Beloved Mama : — Before leaving the yacht I
must send you a few lines to wish you once more
good-bye, and to thank you again and again for all
your kindness to us.
My heart was very full when I took leave of you
and all the dear ones at home ; I had not the cour-
age to say a word, — but your loving heart under-
stands what I felt.
34 PRINCESS ALICE.
Darmstadt, July 13th.
Yesterday, after we reached Bingen, all the Hes-
sian officers of state received us. At every station
we received fresh people, and had to speak to them.
At Mayence also, the iDeautiful Austrian band played
whilst we waited, in pouring rain, which only ceased
as we reached Darmstadt. The station before, the
Grand Duke, Prince and Princess Charles with their
children, Prince Alexander and his wife, received us
— all most kind and cordial.
At the station we were again received ; the whole
town so prettily decked out ; the Biirger [Burgesses
Escort] rode near our carriage ; coundess young
ladies in white, and all so kind, so loyal ; in all the
speeches kind and touching allusions were made to
you, and to our deep grief. I believe the people
never gave so hearty a welcome. We two drove
through the town ; incessant cheering and shower-
ing of flowers. We got out at Prince and Princess
Charles' house, where the whole family was assem-
bled.
We then went to our rooms, which are very small,
but so prettily arranged, with such perfect taste, all
by my own dear Louis ; they look quite English.
We then drove to Bessungen for dinner e^ifam-
ille. * * ^•
We were listening to twelve Sangervereine [Cho-
ral Unions] singing together yesterday evening-—
two hundred people ; it was most beautiful, but in
pouring rain. Some came up-stairs dripping to
speak to us. The Grand Duke gave me a fine dia-
mond bracelet he and his wife had ordered for me,
and showed me all over his rooms.
To-morrow we receive the Standesherren [Princes
and Counts] and the gentlemen of both Houses.
IN HER NEW HOME. 35
My thoughts, rather oicr thoughts, are constantly
with you, beloved Mama. Please give my love to
all at home ; it is impossible to write to them all.
July 1 6th,
* * * It is extremely hot here. The last two
days we rode out at eight in the morning in the
wood, where the air is very pleasant, near the
ground where the troops are drilled. On Monday
we looked on, and the soldiers were so much flat-
tered.
At half-past one on Monday we received the gen-
tlemen of the Upper House, then the Lower House,
then the Fliigeladjutanten [aides-de-camp], then the
Stadtvorstand [Town Council], then about seventy
officers, then a deputation of the English here. All
these people I had to speak to eji grande toilette, and
at four we drove to a large dinner at the Schloss.
The Grand Duke led me, and I always sit near him.
Yesterday at three the whole family drove to See-
heim, a lovely place in the mountains, to dinner with
the Grand Duke. In the two villages we passed,
flowers were showered upon us, and the Pfarrer
[clergyman] made a speech.
I am really deeply touched by the kindness and
enthusiasm shown by the people, which is said
to be quite unusual. They wait near the house to
see us, and cheer constantly — even the soldiers.
We then drove for tea, which is always at eight,
to Jugenheim to Prince Alexander, whose birthday
it was, and did not get home till lo.
The whole family are very amiable toward me,
and Prince Alexander is most clever and amusing.
Darling Louis is very grateful for your kind mes-
sages. We talk and think of you often, and then my
heart grows very heavy. Away from home I can-
36 PJilNCESS ALICE.
not believe that beloved Papa is not there ; all is so
associated with him.
July TQth.
Beloved Mama : — Many thanks for your last kind
letter, and all the news from home ; dear Baby
[Princess Beatrice] is the only one you have men-
tioned nothing of, and I think of her so often.
Some people are coming to us at one, and then
the whole Ministerium [Administration]. It is really
so difficult to find something to say to these peo-
ple, and they stand there waiting to be spoken to.
Yesterday we received a deputation from Gies-
sen, with a very pretty dressing-case they brought
us as a present.
On Thursday we went incognito with Prince Al-
exander and his wife to Frankfort. The town is
decked out most beautifully, and countless Schutzen
[riflemen] are walking about in their dress. We
dined at the Palais and then sat in the balcony.
I have just taken leave of dear Lady Churchill and
General Seymour.* They have made themselves
most popular here, and the people have been very
civil to them.
Louis and I have begun reading " Westward Ho,"
together.
The Grand Duke went all the way to Kranich-
stein for me the other day, and walked about till he
was quite hot. He has forbidden my visiting the
other places until his return, as he wishes to lead
me about there himself. I do not see very much of
the other relations save at meals ; and, having our
own carriages, we two drive together mostly alone.
We have tea usually out of doors in some pretty
spot we drive to.
* Afterward Marquis of Hertford, who died on the 25th of January, 1884.
IN HER NEW HOME. 37
These lines will find you in Windsor. I went out
this morning andrtried to find some of those pretty-
wreaths to send you, but could get none. Please
put one in St. George's * from me. It is the first
time you go to that hallowed spot without me ; but
in thought and prayer I am with you. May God
strengthen and soothe you, beloved Mama, and may
you still live to find some ray of sunshine on your
solitary path, caused by the love and virtue of his
children, trying, however faintly, to follow his
glorious example !
I do strive earnestly and cheerfully to do my duty
in my new life, and to do all that is right, which is
but doing what dear Papa would have wished.
July 2oth.
Thousand thanks for your dear long letter of
the 1 8th just received. How well do I understand
your feelings ! I was so sad myself yesterday, and
had such intense longing after a look, a word from
beloved Papa ! I could bear it no longer. Yet how
much worse is it not for you ! You know, though,
dear Mama, he is watching over you, waiting for you.
The thought of the future is the one sustaining, en-
couraging point for all. " They who sow in tears
shall reap in joy " ; and the great joy will be yours
hereafter, dear Mama, if you continue following that
bright example. ''' * *
We usually get up about quarter or half-past sev-
en, and take some coffee at ei"-ht. Then we either
go out till ten or remain at home, and till twelve I
write and arrange what I have to do.
At one, when we return from breakfast, we usually
read together. I have still a great many people to
see, and they usually come at two.
* St. George's Chapel, Windsor, where the Prince Consort rested until re-
moved to the Mausoleum at Frogmore.
38 PHINCESS ALICE.
At four is dinner, and at lialf-past five we are
usually back here, and occupy ourselves till six or
seven, then drive out somewhere for tea at eight,
walk about and return at a quarter or half-past ten.
We do not waste our time, I assure you, and Louis
has a good deal to do at this moment.
Mr. Theed's bust of dear Papa must be very lovely.
I am curious to hear what you think of Marochetti's."^"
It will be very sad for you to see.
A fortnight already I am here, and away from my
dear home three weeks ! How much I shall have to
tell you when we meet. My own dear Mama, I do
love you so much ! You know, though silent, my
love and devotion to you is deep and true. If I
could relinquish part of my present happiness to
restore to you some of yours, with a full heart would
I do it ; but God's will be done ! God sustain my
precious mother ! is the hourly prayer of her loving
and sympathizing child.
July 24th.
* * * You tell me to speak to you of ;;/y happi-
ness — our happiness. You will understand the feeling
which made me silent towards you, my own dear be-
reaved Mother, on that point; but you are unselfish
and loving and can enter into my happiness, though
I could never have been the first to tell you how in-
tense it is, when it must draw the painful contrast
between your past and present existence. If I say I
love my dear husband, that is scarcely enough — it is
a love and esteem which increases daily, hourly ;
which he also shows to me by such consideration,
such tender loving ways. What was life before to
what it has become now? There is such blessed
* The recumbent statue of the Prince Consort, now in the Mausoleum at
Frogmore.
IN HER NEW HOME. 39
peace being at his side, being his wife ; there is such
a feehng of security ; and we two have a world of
our own when we are together, which notJiing can
touch or intrude upon. My lot is indeed a blessed
one ; and yet what have I done to deserve that
warm, ardent love, which my darling Louis ever
shows me ? I admire his good and noble heart
more than I can say. How he loves me, you know,
and he will be a good son to you. He reads to me
every day out of" Westward Ho," which I think very
beautiful and interestinof.
This morning I breakfasted alone, as he went out
with his regiment. I always feel quite impatient un-
til I hear his step coming up-stairs, and see his dear
face when he returns.
Yesterday, and the previous night, I thought of
you constantly, and of our last journey together to
dear Balmoral. Sad, painful though it was, I liked
so much being with you, trying to bear some of
your load of sorrow with you. From here I share
all as if I were really by your side ; and I think
so many fervent prayers cannot be offered to a
merciful lovinof God without His sendinof alleviation
and comfort.
Please remember me to Grant, Brown, and all of
them at home in dear Scotland, and tell them how
much I wish, and Louis also, that we were there,
changed though every thing is.
July 25th.
* * * People say we may still have the Palais,
but I doubt it. I am eoinqf to tell the Grand Duke
that we return to England in autumn (not only
for your sake, but principally because I do not wish
to incommode our parents any longer, and because
in the winter we could not even receive people
here).
40 FHIA'CESS ALICE.
The only thing I shall regret in our not remaining
here is, that the people feel it so much, and they are
most kind ; but they will see and understand that it
cannot be otherwise, and that it does not arise from
ill will on our part.
^^ ''^ * Cecile and Michael * were here yester-
day, so kind and so full of real sympathy toward you,
which they begged me to express to you. He has
such warm feelings; and they admired and loved
dear Papa, though they saw him but little.
Darmstadt, August ist.
''' ^" * My heart feels ready to burst when
I think of such sorrow as yours. I pray my adored
Louis may long be spared to me. If you only knew
how dear, how loving he is to me, and how he
watches over me, dear darling!
To-morrow we go to Coburg, which was an
old promise. Dear Uncle sent only two days ago to
say he left Coburg on the 5th, and would we not
come before .-^ You will understand that, happy be-
yond measure as I am to go there, a lump always
comes into my throat when I think of it — going for
the first time with Louis to dear Papa's house, where
but recently he showed us every thing himself.f
Dear Mama, I think I can scarcely bear it — the
thought seems so hard and cruel. He told us as
children so much of Coburg, spoke to us of it with
such childlike affection, enjoyed so much telling
us every anecdote connected with each spot ;
and now these silent spots seem to plead for his
absence.
To see the old Baron [Stockmar] will be a great
* Grand Duke and Grand Duchess Michael of Russia. The Grand Duke
Michael is uncle of the present Emperor of Russia.
f This was in the autumn of i860.
IX HER XEW HOME. 4 1
happiness, and that Louis should make his acquaint-
ance. •■
Calexberg bei Coburg, August 4th.
Once more in dear Coburg, and you can fancy
with what feeHngs. Every thing reminds me of
beloved Papa and of our last happy visit.
We are living here, and yesterday we spent all the
afternoon and dined at the Rosenau. It was a
lovely day. and the view so beautiful. We went all
over the house and walked about in the grounds.
We walked to dear Papa's little garden, and I picked
two flowers there for you, w'hich I enclose.
Every spot brought up the remembrance of some-
thing dear Papa had told us of his childhood ; it
made me so sad, I can't tell }ou. Uncle Ernest was
also sad, but so kind and affectionate, and they both
seemed so pleased at our having come.
Every thing about dear Papa's illness, and then of
the sad end. I had to tell. I lived the whole dread-
ful time over again, and wonder, whilst I speak of
it, that we ever lived throu(jh it.
At nine o'clock church service was in the pretty
little chapel. Holzei read, and Superintendent
Meyer preached a most beautiful sermon, the text
being where our Saviour told his disciples they must
become as a little child to enter into the kingdom of
heaven. He spoke with his usual fervor, and it was
most impressive. I saw him afterward, and he en-
quired very much after you.
We are going after breakfast to the Festung. and
then Louis and I are o-oino- to see the dear Baron
[Stockmar].
Darmstadt, August 6th,
Dear Beloved Mama : — Can you give me no ray
of hope that you in some way, bodily or mentally.
42 PRINCESS ALICE.
•
feel better ? It makes my heart ache bitterly, to
hear those sad accounts you give of yourself, though
I well know what for you life without Jiim must be 1
God comfort you ! is my constant prayer.
We saw the dear old Baron for some time. The
meeting was sad on both sides ; he was very kind,
but so desponding as to every thing ! In England
and abroad he looks at every thing in a black light,
and was full of complaints about himself. He asked
much after you, and is anxious to see you again.
August 9tl\
Next Monday we are going to Auerbach, to live
there for a little time. It lies in the Bergstrasse, and
is very healthy. The Grand Duke allows us to
inhabit one of the houses.
August i6th.
How I long to read what Mr. Helps has written
about Papa ! What can it be but beautiful and ele-
vating, if he has rightly entered into the spirit of that
pure and noble being ? '^
Oh, Mama ! the lonfjincr I sometimes have for
dear Papa surpasses all bounds. In thought he is
ever present and near me ; still we are but mortals,
and as such at times long for him also. Dear, good
Papa ! Take courage, dear Mama, and feel strong in
the thought that you require all your moral and
physical strength to continue the journey which
brings you daily nearer to Home and to Him ! I
know hov/ weary you feel, how you long to rest
your head on his dear shoulder, to have him to soothe
your aching heart. You will find this rest again,
and how blessed will it not be ! Bear patiently and
* This refers to Mr., afterward Sir, Arthur Helps' Introduction to the
" Collected Addresses and Speeches of the Prince Consort," which was then
about to be published (Murray, 1S62).
IN HER NEW HOME. 43
courageously your heavy burden, and it will lighten
imperceptibly as you near him, and God's love and
mercy will support you. Oh, could my feeble words
bring you the least comfort ! They come from a
•trusting, true, and loving heart, if from naught else.
AUERBACH, August l6th.
* * * We do feel for you so deeply and would
wish so much to help you, but there is but One who
can do that, and you know whom to seek. He
will give you strength to live on till the bright day
of reunion. ^' '•' '''
AUERBACH, August 2ISt.
* * * Our visit to Giessen * went off very
well. The people were most loyal. We went to
see the Gymnasts, and Louis walked about amongst
them, which pleased them very much. He is very
popular there, and I am very glad we both went, for
it made a good impression.
We drove to Louis' property, Stauffenberg, a
beautiful (alas ! ruined) castle, which by degrees he
is havinof restored, and which will be a charminof
house for us, if it is finished, which can only be done
gradually.
AUERBACH, August 23d.
* * '=■• Try and gather in the few bright things
you have remaining and cherish them, for though
faint, yet they are types of that infinite joy still to
come. I am sure, dear Mama, the more you try to
appreciate and to find the good in that which God
in His love has left you, the more worthy you will
daily become of that which is in store. That
earthly happiness you had is indeed gone forever,
but you must not think that every ray of it has left
* Uuring a musical and gymnastic festival.
44 FRIA'CESS ALICE.
you. You have the privilege, which dear Papa
knew so well how to value, in your exalted position,
of doing good and living for others, of carrying on
his plans, his wishes into fulfilment, and as you go
on doing your duty, this will, this must, I feel sure.'
bring you peace and comfort. Forgive me, darling
Mama, if I speak so openly ; but my love for you is
such that I cannot be silent, when I long so fervently
to give you some slight comfort and hope in your
present life.
I have known and watched your deep sorrow with
a sympathizing, though aching heart. Do not think
that absence from you can still that pain. My love
for you is strong, is constant ; I would like to shelter
you in my arms, to protect you from all future
anxiety, to still your aching longing ! My own
sweet Mama, you know I would give my life for
you, could I alter what you have to bear !
Trust in God ! ever and constantly. In my life I
feel that to be my stay and my strength, and the
feeling increases as the days go on. My thoughts of
the future are bright, and this always helps to make
the minor worries and sorrows of the present dissolve
before the warm rays of that light which is our guide.
AUERBACH, August 25th.
* * * To-day is the Ludwigstag, a day kept
throughout the country, and on which every Ludwig
receives presents, etc. ; but we spend it quite quietly.
Louis' parents and the others are coming to break-
fast, and remain during the day. Louis is out riding.
We always get up early. He rides whilst I write,
and we then walk together and breakfast somewhere
out of doors.
We went to the little church here yesterday, which
is very old, and they sang so well.
IN HER NEW HOME. 45
I drew out of doors also, as it was very fine ; but
it is very difficult, as it is all green, and the trees
are my misfortune, as I draw them so badly. I play
sometimes with Christa * ; she plays very well.
August 26th [Prince Consort's Birthday].
With a heavy heart do I take up my pen to write
to you to-day — this dear day, now so sad, save
through its brisfht recollections. I cannot bear to
think of it now, with no one to bring our wishes to,
with that painful silence where such mirth and
gaiety used to be. It is very hard to bear, and the
first anniversary is like the commencement of a new
epoch in our deep sorrow.
When your dear present was brought to me this
morning, I could not take my eyes from it, though
they were blinded with tears. Oh, those beautiful,
those loved features ! There wants but his kind look
and word to make the picture alive ! Thousand
thanks for it, dear Mama.
How trying this day will be for you ! My thoughts
are constandy with you, and I envy the privilege the
others have in being near you and being able to do
the least thing for you.
The sun shines brightly in the still blue sky ; how
bright and peaceful it must be where our dear Spirit
dwells, if it is already so beautiful here.
September 5th.
* * * Two days aero Louis and I went to
• 1*1
Worms. Whilst he went to his regnnent, which
the Grand Duke came to inspect, I went to the Dom,
which is most beautiful ; and then went in a little
boat on the Rhine, which was charming. It took us,
driving, an hour and a half from Auerbach to
Worms.
* The Princess' lady, Baroness Christa Schenk.
46 PRINCESS ALICE.
AuERBACH, September 7th,
* * * For Louis' birthday we are going to
Darmstadt ; it is getting cold and damp here, and
the house is small. We take our meals in another
house, and it is cold to walk over there of an eve-
ning. Think of us on the 12th. It was such a happy-
day last year.*
I have such Heimiuch [yearning] after beloved
Papa ; it is dreadful sometimes when I think of him
and of our home. But he is so happy in his bright
home, could we but catch a glimpse of him there.
Dear Grandmama [the Duchess of Kent], too, is
constantly in my thoughts lately. I can see her be-
fore me — so dear, kind, and merry. As time goes
on, such things only mingle themselves more vividly
with one's usual life ; for it is their life which is
nearest us again, and not their death, which casts
such a gloom over their remembrance.
AuERBACH, September nth.
* * * How beautiful Heidelberg is ! we went
all over the Castle, and with such glorious weather.
There is one side still standing, built and decorated
by a pupil of Michael Angelo, which dear Papa ad-
mired so much. How do I miss not being able to
talk to beloved Papa of all I see, hear, feel, and
think ! His absence makes such a gap in my ex-
istence.
Darmstadt, October 13th,
* * * Our visit to Baden was charming, and
dear Fritz and Louise f so kind ! Louis and I were
both delighted by our visit. The Queen, the
Duchess of Hamilton, and Grand Duchess Helene
* Prince Louis was then at Balmoral.
f Grand Duke and Grand Duchess of Baden.
IN HER NEW HOME. 4/
were there, besides dear Aunt [Princess Hohenlohe],
and Countess Klicher. The two latter, dear and
precious as ever.
We left yesterday morning- ; spent three hours
with Grand Duchess Sophie, who is the most agree-
able, clever, amiable person one can imagine. It
gave me real pleasure to make her acquaintance.
Aunt Feodore's house, though small, is really very
pretty, and her rooms are hung full of pictures. I
saw Winterhalter also, in his lovely new house,
which he has gone and sold, saying it was too good
for him. He has painted a most beautiful picture of
the Grand Duchess Helene — quite speaking.
* * J ^pj^ going to make my will before
leaving. I do not like leaving (for England) with-
out having done something.
Darmstadt, October 17th.
First of all, thousand thanks from Louis and me
for your having allowed dear Arthur^" to come with
us. I cannot tell you what pleasure it has been to
me to have that dear child a little bit. He has won
all hearts, and I am so proud when they admire my
little brother, who is a mixture of you and adored
Papa.
Darmstadt, October 23d.
* * * We intend probably leaving this on
Saturday, the 8th, remaining until the loth at Cob-
lenz, from whence we go direct in eleven hours and
three-quarters to Antwerp, leaving Antwerp the
morning of the 12th, to reach Windsor that even-
ing or the next morning.
We always continue reading together, and have
read Hypatia, a most beautiful, most interesting,
* Duke of Connaught, then twelve years old.
48 PEINCESS ALICE.
and very learned and clever book, which requires
great attention.
I have the great bore to read the newspapers
every day, which I must do ; see Dr. Becker * from
eleven to twelve ; then I write, and have constantly
people to see, so that I have scarcely any time to
draw or to play. I also read serious book to my-
self.
Louis would like to o^o to Leeds and Manchester
from Osborne, as he wants to go to London from
Windsor. I shall accompany him sometimes.
October 25th,
As you come later to Windsor, we shall not leave
till the loth, remain the nth with the Oueen, then
go direct to Antwerp. If the weather is bad we
shall wait. Then on the 14th or i5th we shall be at
Windsor, which we prefer to coming to Osborne.
We hope this will suit you.
All are full of lamentations at our departure, and
for so long, which is most natural ; but they are very
kind. We have a family dinner in our little room
to-day, which is large enough for a few people.
The Grand Duke has quite lost his heart to Arthur,
and Bertie [Prince of Wales] pleased him also very
much.
In talking together last night, Louis said what I
feel so often, that he always felt as if it must come
right again some time, and we should find dear Pa-
pa home again. In another hoi7ic we shall.
October 30th.
The Grand Duke was quite overcome when I
gave him the photographs, and with Baby's [Prin-
cess Beatrice's] he is quite enchanted, and wishes
* The Princess Alice's private secretary.
IN HER NEV/ HOME.
49
me to tell you how grateful he is, and how much he
thanks you. Yeu cannot think hozv pleased he was,
and the more so \\\2X you sent them him. He has a
warm' heart and feels very much for you, and takes
a warm interest in all my brothers and sisters.
I am glad you are going to see dear Fritz of Ba-
den ; he will be so pleased. We shall see Louise at
Coblenz.
The plans for our house have come, and even the
simplest is far above what we poor mortals can
build.
November 6th.
% * * Yesterday, Mrs. Combe, widow of
George Combe and daughter of Mrs. Siddons, came
to see me and was with me some time. She is a
clever, amiable old lady. It gave me such pleasure
to see and talk with her. Will you tell Sir James
Clark so, as she is an old friend of his.
1863.
Each visit to her old home seemed to eive fresh
life to Princess Alice, and it can therefore be easily
understood how great her happiness was at beini;
again under her mother's roof and care, there to
await the realization of her fondest hopes.
It was also a great comfort to the Princess to
spend the first anniversary of her father's death with
her family around her.
On the 1 8th of December, 1862, the remains cf
the Prince Consort were placed in a temporary sar-
cophagus, in the centre of the newly-erected mauso-
leum at Frogmore in the presence of the Prince of
50 PHINCESS ALICE.
Wales, Prince Arthur, Prince Leopold, and Prince
Louis of Hesse.
Prince Louis occupied much of his time during his
long stay in England in making a number of inter-
estinij visits to the chief industrial centres, and to
military arsenals and depots.
Princess Alice met with a carriage accident on the
last day of the old year, which happily was followed
by no bad consequences.
On the loth of March, 1863, the Prince of Wales
was married to the Princess Alexandra of Denmark,
at St. George's Chapel, Windsor Castle, in the pres-
ence of the whole Royal family. It was the first
Royal marriage which had been celebrated in
that chapel since the marriage of Henry L, in
1122.
Soon after, on Easter Sunday, the 5th of April,
1863, Princess Louis of Hesse gave birth to a
daughter at Windsor Castle. This event was made
known next day at Darmstadt by the firing of
twenty-one guns. The best possible news con-
tinued to be received of the well-doing of mother
and child.
The little Princess was christened on the 27th of
April, at Windsor, by the Hessian Court chap-
lain, Bender. She received the names of Victoria
Alberta Elizabeth Matilda. The Princes Alexan-
der and Henry of Hesse represented the Grand
Ducal family at the christening.
Princess Alice completed her recovery during a
IN HER NEW HOME, 5 I
stay at Osborne, in May, and while there was able to
accompany the Queen on a visit to the Military Hos-
pital at Netley.
After a short stay in London, Prince and Princess
Louis of Hesse and their little dauQ^hter returned to
Darmstadt. They spent the summer months at
Kranichstein, a shooting-lodge near Darmstadt, be-
longing to the Grand Duke. The Princess employed
her time in becoming better acquainted with her
adopted country, its inhabitants, their customs, and
ways of thinking.
The Congress of German Potentates and Princes
at Frankfort, in August, brought the Princess in con-
tact with many crowned heads. She proved herself
her father's true child in regard to politics. The
Prince Consort had always longed for an united
Germany, with Prussia at its head, and a Liberal
constitution. Princess Alice's letters will show how
truly German her feelings were in the Schleswig-
Holstein question, which at that time, owing to the
death of King Frederick VII. of Denmark, and the
claims made by his successor. King Christian IX.,
to the succession in the Duchies also, assumed a
European interest, and led to consequences of
permanent importance in the history of Europe.
The accounts of the manner in which the Prince and
Princess Louis endeavored to fulfil their social duties
throw a significant light upon the way in which the
young Princess discharged her duties as the mistress
of her home.
52 PRINCESS ALICE.
In August the Princess met Queen Victoria at
Coburg ; and afterward had the happiness of re-
ceiving Her Majesty and her sisters Helena, Louise
and Beatrice, and her brother Alfred, on a short visit
at Kranichstein.
A few weeks later the Prince and Princess with
their child joined the Queen at Balmoral, where
nearly all the members of the Royal family were as-
sembled.
In November they returned to Darmstadt, where,
during their absence, the new palace had made rapid
progress, and was roofed in. It was built on a site
given by the Grand Duke, and after plans designed
by the Princess herself. The arrangement of the
interior was entirely carried out by herself in a man-
ner both practical and artistic.
In December, Prince Louis' only sister, Anna,
was ensfaofed to be married to the Grand Duke of
Mecklenburg-Schwerin, an event which gave great
satisfaction at the time. The Princess spent her
first Christmas in Germany this year — 1863.
Marlborough House, May 14th.
Dearest Mama : — Our parting this morning was
most painful to both of us — from you to whom we
owe so much, and whom we love so dearly.
May God comfort and support you, beloved
Mama, on your sad and weary pilgrimage !
Marlborough House, May i6th.
I could not get your dear face and your sweet
voice out of my mind for an instant, and everywhere
I thought I must see you or dear Papa. It seemed
IN HER NEW HOME. 53
SO strange ; I had the tears in my eyes all day. The
worst was the opera, for I had never been without
you or Papa, and all was the same and yet so
different. It was very trying to me ; and so
will the drawing-room be to-day. * * =;= j s^^v
Lady Jocelyn, Duchess of Manchester, Sir Charles
Locock, and Lord Alfred Paget, to show them baby,
and all find her like what we all were. How much
we have to thank for in her name. Your affection
for her and all you have done for her have touched
us more than I can say. It seemed to me quite
wrong to take her from you.
On Wednesday, Alix [Princess of Wales] and
myself go to the studios. This morning we drove
in Battersea Park.
May 19th.
* * * The drawing-room was long, but Alix
and I were not so tired, considering the length of
time, for we stood, excepting twenty minutes, in the
middle, when there was a block and the people could
not come.
In to-day's letter you mention again your wish
that we should soon be with you again. Out of the
ten months of our married life five have been spent
under your roof, so you see how ready we are to be
with you. Before next year Louis does not think we
shall be able to come ; at any rate when we can
we shall, and I hope we shall be able to see you for a
day or two in Germany to divide the time.
Darmstadt, May 23d.
* * * Baby "" has been so much admired, and
all the clothes you gave her.
* Princess Victoria of Hesse.
54 PRINCESS ALICE.
Darmstadt, May.
I sha'n't have time to write more than a few words,
as we have just returned from church and are going"
to Mayence till Wednesday. The Grand Duke came
all the way to Kranichstein yesterday to go about
with us, and see how to arrange it comfortably. He
is most kind, and sat an hour with me.
We have received two deputations this morning,
and my things, which ought to have been here be-
fore us, only arrived to-day.
Mayence, June 2d.
There was a large dinner yesterday ; the Nassaus
dined here, and this morning we have been to Bie-
brich. The Duke and Duchess, Nicolas Nassau,
Marianne of Prussia,* her sister the Duchess of
Altenburcf, and Landgrave William were there.
They were most kind and civil. We hurried back
in time for dinner. The Grand Duke is most kind,
has taken me everywhere about himself — into the
Dom, into several shops, etc.
Now when I return I shall have to unpack and
pack again for Kranichstein, and arrange the house
there, which has not been lived in for eighty years,
so that for writing I have barely a moment.
I have good accounts of baby, whom all the old
gentlemen run out of their houses to look at, when
she walks in the garden, and try to tell Moffat [her
nurse] what they think of her, but she of course un-
derstands nothinor.
Darmstadt, June 3d.
I write to you to-day, as Louis is going for all day
to Worms to-morrow, and I am going to Jugenheim
to Uncle Alexander. It is already warm here, and
we are going in a day or two into the country.
* Princess Frederick Cliailes, mother of the Duchess of Connaught.
IN HER NEW HOME. 55
The Queen of Prussia passes through here to-day,
and I shall probatly hear from her what her inten-
tions are about England. I have received a splendid
bracelet from the Empress of Russia — for baby's
picture. She is said to be far from well.
Darmstadt, June 6th.
* * * Louis was away from four o'clock yester-
day morning till eleven at night. He was at Worms
with Uncle Louis. Tuesday is his birthday, and we
shall very likely go on Monday to Mayence, as
Uncle Louis is always wishing for us.
I took a walk at Jugenheim yesterday with Uncle
Alexander, his wife and children, of more than two
hours, and it was so beautiful, and numberless little
birds sincrincf. Uncle Alexander was so 8;rateful for
all your kindness, and was above all so charmed
with you. It always makes me so happy to be able
to talk about you, and to hear you appreciated
as you ought to be, darling Mama.
June 8tli.
* * * Baby sits up quite strong, and looks
about and laughs. She has got on wonderfully, and
she is so good. She was an hour with us yesterday
evening wide awake, and so good. She is as well
and as strong as any child could be. To-day we go
to Mainz, and to-morrow night from thence to Kran-
ichstein. All our beds must be moved meanwhile,
as there are none in the house.
Kranichstein, June 12th.
Louis went at six this morning to Darmstadt for
the inspection of his regiment by Uncle Louis.
Princess Charles' birthday is on the i8th. The
Grand Duke will be at P^riedberg, and we are to go
for the day, which will be rather tiring, as it is a
56 PRINCESS ALICE.
good way by rail and back again, and we have to
wait an hour at Frankfort.
Louis is going to take his seat in the Chamber on
the 23d. He was unable to do so last year, as we
left for England two days before the time.
June 19th.
* * * You ask me again if I occupy myself
much and seriously ? Not a moment of the day is
wasted, and I have enough to read and to think about :
what with the many and different papers, and inter-
esting books. Dr. Becker comes daily, and I have
a ofood deal to look after.
We have a dinner to-day — Prince and Princess
Charles, Uncle Adalbert, Anna, William, and the
suites.
June 23d.
* * ''' You will be amused to hear that I have
taken a little black (a Malay) into my service. He
is a dear good boy, was brought over two years ago
by a gentleman, to whom he was given away by his
own parents as a mark of gratitude for some service
done. This man has had him here tw^o years, but
has never had him taught any thing. He has no re-
ligion, and can neither read nor write. I am going
to have him taught, and, later, christened. He is
very intelligent, thirteen years old.
We shall remain here for the present ; we go
about a good deal seeing things near by, and then it
is the first time we have our household and stable,
so that on account of Haushaltung [housekeeping],
etc., we are going to remain here for a little time.
It is very pleasant besides, and constant moving is
far too expensive for us. We give dinners here,
which are also useful, as I know so few people.
IN HER NEW HOME. 5/
Some of the Standesherren are coming to-morrow,
and later some hi the Abgeordneten [Deputies] of
the Second Chamber, which will give us an oppor-
tunity of making the acquaintance of some of the
Liberals in the country.
I cannot get rid of my rheumatism, which is so
unpleasant.
Louis is very busy ; he reads to me sometimes
out of Lord Macaulay's last volume of the English
History, which I had not yet read. Twice a week
Louis takes drill with his cavalry regiment, and he
has to ride out at six in the morning, as it is some
way off
June 27th,
* * * I bathe every morning and swim about;
there is a nice little bathing-house.
I hear baby shrieking out of doors ; she does not
cry very much, but she is very passionate. She
was vaccinated two days ago by Dr. Weber, and I
am going to be done next week ; the sma!l-pox is
at Darmstadt, and a man died of it yesterday. Louis
is very industrious and busy ; he has all the papers
of the Stande [State papers] to read and look
through, and reads other useful books, besides
papers and other things which he must read. He
wrote to Lord Derby to express his thanks for hav-
ing been made a Doctor at Oxford. He takes a
great deal of exercise, riding, walking, rowing, swim-
ming. We get up at six every morning, and go to
bed after ten.
Louis has always a good deal to do at home, and
a good many things which would never be expected
of him in England. He knows the necessity and
importance of working. I hope next month Uncle
Ernest '"' will come to us for a day on his way back
* Duke of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha.
58 PRINCESS ALICE.
from Homburg. He has asked us for a few days to
the Calenberg whilst you are in Germany, and then
in the winter we hope to be for a few days at Gotha.
The LiJtzows,* and Miss Seymour dine with us
to-day.
June 30th.
Lady Fife is at Homburg, and is coming to dine
with us. To-morrow all the family and some other
people come to dinner. We have seen a good many
people ; we receive in the morning or for dinner.
Dalwigk gave a large soiree in the woods, with
a supper for us, last night. All the Standesherren
and Foreign Ministers were there.
To-morrow is our dear wedding-day. With what
gratitude do I look back to that commencement of
such happiness, and such real and true love, which
even daily increases in my beloved husband. Oh,
may we not be deprived of it too soon ! I admire
and respect him for his true-hearted, generous, un-
selfish, and just nature ! Oh, dear Mama, if you
only knew how excellent he is ! I wish I were good
like him, for he is free from any selfish, small, or
uncharitable feelings. You should see how he is
beloved by all his people ; our servants adore him.
I open my heart to you, who have so warm and
sympathizing a heart, that even in the midst of such
deep grief and sorrow as yours will listen to what
your children, who love you dearly, long to say.
Our little one is grown so pretty ; she has little
pink cheeks, and is so fat and so good-humored. I
often think her like you when she smiles.
July 2d.
You can fancy how much we thought of this day
* Count Lutzow was at this time the Austrian Minister and Plenipoten-
tiary at the Court of Darmstadt.
IN HER NEW HOME. 59
last year, and of you and all the love and kindness
you showed us then. How truly we both love you,
and, when we can, how willingly we shall come to
your side, and be of the least use to you, you know,
for I feel for you and with you, more than words can
describe.
Our first large dinner yesterday went off very well.
We make our arrangements, sitting, etc., all as you
and dear Papa had it, which is new here, but I am
happy to say, approved of. We always dine at four.
Baby appeared afterward, and really never cries
when she is shown, but smiles, and seems quite
amused. She is immensely admired, particularly
for her healthy appearance and fine large eyes. I
really think her like you now ; she is very much
changed, and, when she sits up, looks so pretty and
dear.
To-day we have again a dinner. Th«re is a fine
dining-room and drawing-room here, so that we can
see a good many people.
July 4th.
Shortly we are going to pay Prince Solms-Lich,the
president of the First Chamber, a visit. He is very
liberal on the whole, rich, and a nice old gentleman.
He knew Grandpapa in the year 1820, also Uncle
Charles, Uncle Hohenlohe, Aunt Feodore, and Eliza.
Lady Fife, Annie, and Mr. Corbett from Frankfort
are coming to us to-day.
The Grand Duke of Weimar was here yesterday
for dinner at the Schloss.
What you said about Germany is so true ; and
Louis has the real good of his country near at heart.
They always have to vote for or against what the
Second Chamber brings forward, and the other day
a vote was sent in from the Liberals for an altera-
6o PRINCESS ALICE.
tion of a press law. Only one voice in the whole
Chamber was for it, which was Louis', and this pro-
duced a very good effect among the Liberals. He
is no coward, and will say what he thinks, if it is
necessary, even if all are against him.
Kranichstein, July 15th.
To-day is Uncle Alexander's birthday, and we
have to drive for dinner to Seeheim. To-morrow
morning we leave for Lich at five in the morning.
Two nights ago a horrid and schatierliches [ap-
palling] event took place here. I went out about
eight down to the pond, which is close to the house,
to meet Louis. I met an odd-looking pale man, who
neither bowed nor looked about, walking slowly along ;
and when I joined Louis he asked me if I had seen
him, as he had been prowling about all the after-
noon. W^stopped a little longer, when at the end
our grooms were running. We rowed on to see
what was the matter, and on coming near, a body
was floating in the water, the face already quite blue
and lifeless. I recognized him at once. Louis and
the others with trouble fished him out and laid him
in our boat to bring him on shore. It was very
horrid to see. We brought him on shore, tried all
means to restore him to life, but of no avail. He
was^ carried into the stable. He had committed
suicide, and we heard afterward that he was a very
bad character. You can fancy that it was very un-
pleasant to me, to have that disfigured corpse next
me in the boat ; and it haunts me now, — for a vio-
lent death leaves frightful traces, so unlike any thing
else. But half or quarter of an hour before, I had
passed that man in life, and so shortly after to see
him floating by quite lifeless ! It brings death be-
fore one in its worst form, when one sees a bad man
IN HER NEW HOME. 6 1
die by his own hand. The indifference with which
the other people treated it, and dragged him along,
was also revolting to one's feelings; but one must be
manly, and not mind those things ; yet I own it
made me rather sick, and prevented my sleep that
night.
"l am glad we are going away for a few days ; the
change will be pleasant.
It was such a pleasure to me to have seen dear
Lady Frances Baillie the other day, and she was
looking well, though she is very thin.
You kindly gave me our dear Papa's Farm-book
for the Farmers' Union here ; the people are so
touched and pleased. I send you the letter of thanks
to read.
LiCH, July 1 8th.
* * * We leave to-morrow afternoon for Frank-
fort, and the next day we go to Homburg on the
way home. The Prince and Princess are most kind
and civil ; they have a fine Schloss, and are rich.
The latter is clever and amiable, and the young peo-
ple — their nephews and nieces — are very nice and
very kind. It is a fine, rich country, and they seem
very much beloved. The sister of the Princess,
Princess Solms-Laubach, nee Biidingen, is here also.
Her husband was in the Prussian service, and they
lived at Bonn whilst dear Papa was there. He came
to see them and to spend the evening there very
often. She told me how handsome he then was,
and how much praised and liked by all. She asked
after Rath Florschiitz,* and Eos,f and if dear Papa
continued later on to be so sleepy of an evening,
as he was even then.
* Tutor of llie Prince Consort during his boyhood and early youth,
f A favorite greyhound of the Prince Consort's, which he brought to Eng-
land at the time of his marriage.
62 PRINCESS ALICE.
Kranichstein, July 21st.
Our visit at Lich went off very well. Everything
is so vornehm [in such good style] and so well
arran^red.
July 23d,
We are going to give Heinrich * a rendezvous
somewhere, perhaps at Kreuznach, which is not very
far. On August 1st, we are going to the north of the
country, — a part which I do not know, — and on the
way we stop at Giessen, where we have been invited
to see an agricultural exhibition. On Monday we
give a tea and a dance — between fifty and sixty
people. The advantage of this place is its nearness
to Darmstadt, and that there is room enough to re-
ceive people.
The Russian and French ambassadors, with their
wives, and Mr. Corbett and Lord Robert S. Kerr,
dine with us to-day.
July 27th.
I have no news to give. To-night we give our
first large party — seventy people.
August I St.
Yesterday we were all day at Rumpenheim : so
kindly received ! The Landgrave, his two brothers,
Frederic and George, the Dowager Duchess of
Mecklenburg-Strelitz, her daughter Duchess Caroline,
Aunt Cambridge, Mary, Augusta, and Adolphus ;
Fritz and Anna of Hesse and good Princess Louise,
kindness itself. Aunt Cambridge was very amiable,
and spoke most tenderly of you. To-morrow morn-
ing Louis goes to Oberhessen, where I join him in
two days. I go to see Uncle Alexander at Jugen-
heim ; go on Monday to Friedberg, where there is
Prince Henry of Hesse, brother of Prince Louis.
IN HER NE W HOME. ()l
an asylum for blind people, of which I am Protectorin
[Patroness]. I go to see it, and sleep at the Castle.
The rrext day I stop on my road to see Marburg,
and shall be in the evening at Alsfeld, where I find
Louis. The next day I go on to Herr von Riedesel
at Altenburg, where I breakfast, and I dine and
spend the night with another Riedesel family at
Eisenbach. Louis joins me that evening. The next
day we go on though the country, as the people are
anxious to see us, and the country is very beautiful.
On Thursday and Friday we shall be at Giessen, on
Saturday at home.
Giessen, August yth.
I am very hot and tired ; we have only just
reached this place, and have to go out almost immedi-
ately to see the animals and machines.
Our journey has been most prosperous, but rather
tiring, and the heat quite fearful. We were most
kindly received everywhere. English, Hessian,
German flags everywhere, and Gcsangvereine of an
evening.
Last night we slept at Schotten, and posted from
thence to-day through a lovely, rich, wooded, and
mountainous district, the Voeelsbere.
We have had but one room everywhere, and
have remained only long enough at a place to see it,
so that writing has been impossible. To-morrow
evening we return to Kranichstein, and then I will
write to you an account of every thing. Here, with
no time, and with such heat and noise, it is impossible.
Kranichstein, August 9th.
* •!= =!= We went, when I last wrote to you at
Giessen, to see the different machines at work, in a
crowd close round us and a smotherinof heat. It
was interesting, though, in spite of all. The people
64 PRINCESS ALICE.
cheered and were very civil. That day, at the meet-
ing of the agriculturists, Count Laubach told me
dear Papa's book lay on the table, and is of the
greatest use and interest. I am so pleased to have
been the first in Germany to make known some-
thing of Papa's knowledge in this science, one of
the many in which dear Papa excelled. The people
are so grateful to you for having sent it. In the
evening the president and some other scientific gen-
tlemen came to tea with us. I was so glad to see
how pleased the people were at the interest Louis
takes in these things. A procession was really very
pretty; large carts, decorated with the different agri-
cultural emblems, peasants in their different cos-
tumes — it was something quite new to me.
At Marburg, I saw in the beautiful church the
grave of St. Elizabeth, the castle where she lived,
and many other things which Kingsley mentions in
his " Saint's Tragedy."
This week the Emperor of Austria and other po-
tentates came to Frankfort. The Kin^" of Prussia
has refused, so that now, as it is not a universal
meeting, it will not be what it might have been.
August 19th.
* * * The Emperor came all the way to
Kranichstein to pay us a visit, and is very amiable,
though not very talkative. Archduke William,
King Max, and the Duke of Brunswick were also
here yesterday.
We saw the procession to the Romer from a small
room, already filled by twelve Rumpenheimers ! It
was a very interesting sight.
August 2ISt.
* * * This evening all the crowned heads
IN HER NEW HOME. 65
nearly are coming to the opera, and the Riimpen-
heimers very Hkely also. Uncle Ernest comes to us
for dinner, and we take him wilh us.
August 24lh.
* * * We dined at Homburg yesterday after-
noon with the old hereditary Grand Duchess of
Schwerin, Louis' great-aunt, who is eighty-six. and
as fresh and lively as ever. The Duke of Alten-
buror and the Grand Duke of Schwerin were with us,
and both of them wish to have their respectful duty
sent to you.
[During the months of September and October
the Princess was in EnMand on a visit to the
Queen.]
Buckingham Palace, October 28th.
Thousand thanks for your dear lines! How sad
that we should be reduced to writing again ! It was
such a happiness to speak to you, and in return to
hear all you hiid to say, — to try and soothe you, and
try to make your burden lighter. I always feel sep-
aration from you so much, tor 1 feci for and with you,
more, oh, far more, than I can ever express! I can
only say again, trust, hope, and be courageous, and
every day will bring something in the fulfilment of
all your great duties, which will bring you peace,
and make you feel that you are not forsaken, that
God has heard your prayer, felt for you, as a loving
Father would, and that d{>ar Papa is not far from
you.
We remain here to-night, as Louis had a bad
sick-headache, toothache, and so on, and he must
rest. We leave to-morrow afternoon.
Affie [Prince Alfred] and William (of Hesse)
66 PRINCESS ALICE.
were very well, and seem quite happy together.
Affie sends love, and William his respects.
Darmstadt, November 2d.
Before going out (half-past six) I begin these
lines. You will have heard what an awful passage
we had. Christa and I had one of those cabins near
the paddle-box, and good old May "^ was with us.
Each wave that broke on the ship Christa and I
groaned, and May exclaimed : " Oh, goodness, gra-
cious me ! what an awful sea ! Lord bless you, child,
I hope it is all safe ! " and so on. If we had not
been so wretched, and had not looked so awful with
those mountains of waves about us, I should have
laughed. All the maids and Moffat were sick. Baby
was sick all over her nice new shawl, which was
a great grief.
Uncle Louis and Uncle Gustav received us at the
station. My parents-in-law don't return till Wednes-
day. Yesterday Uncle Louis gave us a large din-
ner, and to-day he dines enfauiille in our house with
Prince Adalbert of Bavaria, Uncle Gustav,-}- and
ourselves.
I was quite done up by this journey. At four in
the morning we changed carriages at Cologne, and
' did not get here till past twelve o'clock — twenty-nine
hours under way.
November 5th.
* * * Yesterday evening Louis and I were at
a chemical lecture, which was very interesting, by
young Hallnachs, the brother of the one Becker
spoke to you about.
Our house is getting on very well, and we are often
there.
♦Mrs. Hull, a former nurse of the Princess and her brothers and sisters,
f Prince Gustav Wasa, first cousin to Prince Charles of Hesse.
IN HER NEW HOME. 6/
Louis is very*grateful and touched by your kind
message, and kisses your hand. He is often away
for those tiresome Jagden [shooting-parties] from
five in the morning till eight at night, as it is some
way off.
November 14th.
It is not yet eight, and I have such cold fingers.
The messenger leaves at nine, so I must write now.
We are going to Mayence to-day, to see a house of
our architect Kraus, which is said to be very pretty
and very English.
I paid Becker and his mother a visit yesterday.
Their rooms are so nice, pictures and presents from
you and dear Papa in all directions, remembrances of
past, such happy, years !
Yesterday also I drove baby out in my little car-
riajje. She sat on Christa's knees and looked about
her so much ; she went to sleep at last.
November 17 th.
* * "■ Yesterday I was all the morning with
Julie Battenberg buying Christmas presents. To-day
also I am much occupied. We get up at seven, with
candles, every morning, as this is the best time
for doing all business, and breakfast at eight.
November 21st.
% -X- vc yj^g Holstein question, I fear, will lead
to war. Fritz' * rio^hts are so clear. And I am
sure all Germany will help him to maintain his
rights, for the cause is a just one.
I am sure, dear Mama, you are worried to death
about it, which is very hard, for you cannot undo
what once exists. Any thing only to avoid war ! It
would be a sad calamity for Germany, the end
of which no one can foresee.
* The late Duke Frederic of Augustenburg.
68 PRINCESS ALICE.
My baby has this morning cut her first tooth, and
makes such faces if one ventures to touch her little
mouth.
To-day I am going to visit the hospital in the
town, which is said not to be good or well looked
after. I want to be able to do something for it, and
hope to succeed, for the people have plenty of
money, only not the will. The Burgomaster and
Gemeinderath [the Town Councillors] will meet me
there.
I have just called into life what did not exist —
that is, linen to be lent for the poor women in their
confinements, and which I hope will be of use to
them, for the dirt and discomfort is very great in
those classes.
November 28th,
* * * My visit to the hospital was very inter-
esting, and the air was good, the place clean and
fresh. There were few people dangerously ill there,
and they looked well taken care of. Air and water
are making their way into these places to the benefit
of mankind.
I was so much distressed the other day ; for the
poor man who fell in our house has died. He was
* a soldier, and so respectable and industrious, not
above twenty-four. This is already the second who
has died in consequence of a fall.
Our visit to Carlsruhe was very pleasant. The
Queen [of Prussia] was there, and we spoke so
much of you together. She enters quite into all
your feelings, and perfectly understands all the sad
trials and difficulties of your position in addition to
your just and natural grief.
November 3olh.
A few words of love and affection from us both on
IN HER NEW HOME. 69
this dear day — the third anniversary of the com-
mencement of ail our happiness, which dear Papa
and you enabled us to form.
Those happy days at Windsor and those awful
days the year after! I assure you the season, the
days, all make me sad — for the impression of those
two years can never be wiped out of my mind. I
can write but a few lines, as to-morrow we leave for
Amorbach, and to-day I go with Louis out shooting.
It is cold and fine, as it was two years ago.
Darling Mama, again and again we thank you and
beloved Papa for all your love to us at that time.
Amorbach, December 2d.
* * * We arrived here at half-past four yes-
terday, after a bitter cold drive in an open carriage
over hard roads^ all being frozen, since ten in the
morning. The country we came through was beauti-
ful, though all white, up and down hill all the way,
through many villages, through woods, etc. The
house is large and comfortable, full of souvenirs of dear
Grandmama [Duchess of Kent], of Uncle Charles.
I am so pleased to be with Ernest and Marie,*
it is a bit of home again.
Darmstadt, December 6th.
* * * Our visit to Amorbach was so pleasant,
though the weather was bad. I was so happy to be
once more with Ernest and Marie. Edward f was
very amusing and good-natured. I saw poor old
Wagner, J who wishes me to send you his duty.
December 8th.
* * * Think, only yesterday evening at a
* Prince and Princess of Leiningen. \ Prince Leiningen's brother.
\ Former tutor to Prince Leiningen's father.
70 PJilNCESS ALICE.
concert the}^ played " Riiy Bias," which I had not
heard since Windsor. The room, the band, dear
Papa, all came before me, and made my heart sink
at the thought that that belonged to the bright recol-
lections of the past ! I cried all the way home.
Such trivial things sometimes awaken recollections
more vividly, and hurt more keenly, than scenes of
real distress. I am sure you know what I mean.
December 12th.
* * ''• I must close ; my tears fall fast, and I
ought not to make you sadder, when you are sad
enough already. Pray for me when you kneel at
his grave — pray that my happiness may be allowed
to last long ; think of me when you kneel there where
on that day my hand rested on your and Papa's dear
hands, two years ago. That bond between us both
is so strong, beloved Mama. I feel it as a legacy from
him.
December 22d.
A great pleasure I have had in arranging a tree for
our good servants. I bought all the things myself at
the market, and hung them on the tree ; then I also
got things for darling Louis.
December 26th.
■V. :!: :•: ^y^ ^jj j-^^j trecs lu one large room in
the Palace, and our presents underneath it looked
extremely pretty. Uncle Alexander's five children
were there, and made such a noise with their play-
things.
Baby had a little tree early at her Grandpapa and
Grandmama's, with all her pretty things.
Many thanks for the turkey-pie ; we give a dinner
to-day in honor.
IN HER NEW HOME. 7 1
1864.
The year 1864 was a most eventful one for Ger-
many. After a severe struggle, the Duchies of
Schleswie-Holstein were wrested from the control of
the German Confederation or Diet at Frankfort, and
occupied by Austrian and Prussian troops. The
Princess' own life that year was full of joyful events,
and no cloud of sorrow came to disturb her hap-
piness.
The marriaee of Princess Anna of Hesse, which
took place on the 12th of May, was a cause of great
rejoicing to the family.
During the first months of the year the Prince and
Princess paid several short visits to Gotha, Carlsruhe,
and Munich, and in the summer spent three happy
months in Encrland.
On their return to Germany they received numer-
ous guests at Kranichstein. But in spite of the many
social duties and distractions in which the Princess
took an active part, she never lost sight of more
serious duties and pursuits. She became the " Pro-
tectress " of the " Heidenreich Institution for Lying-
in Women," which was the beginning of the active
interest afterward taken by her in all sanitary im-
provements. This interest was heightened by the
birth of her second daughter, who was born on the
1st of November, 1864, and christened on the 28th
of that month, receiving the names of Elizabeth
Alexandra Louise Alice. The Princess was very
proud of being able to nurse her child herself, and
72 PjRIMCESS ALICE.
from this time she took up with the keenest interest
all questions relating to the physical, mental, and
moral training of children. She found an able sup-
porter and independent adviser in Dr. Weber, a very
eminent medical man, resident at Darmstadt.
January 5th.
* * * The cold here is awful. I skated yes-
terday, and to-day we are going to the pond at
Kranichstein. (Very few people skate here — only
one lady, and she very badly.) Baby only goes out
for half an hour in the middle of the day, well
wrapped up. It would not do to keep her quite at
home, as she would become so sensitive when first
taken out again. Of course when it is windy or too
cold she stops in.
January 9th.
I was ao^hast on receivinof Bertie's tele^rram this
mornincr announcine the birth of their little son. Oh,
may dear Papa's blessing rest on the little one ; may
it turn out like dear Papa, and be a comfort and a
pride to you, and to its young parents ! Your first
English grandchild. Dear Mama, my heart is so
full. May dear Alix and the baby only go on well !
January i6th.
::•: ••;: I3a^|3y says " Papa," " Mama," and yester-
day several times " Louis." She imitates every thing
she hears, all noises and sounds ; she gets on her
feet alone by a chair, and is across the room b:ffore
one can turn round. Her adoration for Louis is
touching. She stops always, since the summer,
alone in our room, so she never cries for Moffat [her
nurse], and is very happy on the floor with her play-
things. She is a very dear little thing and gets on
IN' HER NEW HOME. 73
very fast, but equally in all things, and is as fat as
she was. It is so interesting to watch the progress
and development of such a little being ; and baby is
so expressive, she makes such a face when she is not
pleased, and laughs so heartily when she is con-
tented. She is more like a child of two years old a
great deal.
Goth A, January 2 2d.
After a very cold journey we arrived here on
Wednesday afternoon. I found dear uncle and
aunt well, Leopoldine (who is very dear and nice)
and Hermann,* Edward and Marie Leiningen, and
Prince Lowenstein here. Only Hermann and Leo-
poldine live in the Castle besides us ; the others are
all at uncle's house.
January 30th.
* * * These poor Schleswig-Holsteiners do
what they can to liberate themselves from the Danish
yoke, and to regain their lawful sovereign, Fritz.
And why is England, who stands up for freedom of
countries, who in Italy, where there was less cause,
did what she could to liberate the country from her
lawful sovereigns, to do what she can to prevent the
Schleswig-Holsteiners from liberating themselves
from a king who has no right over them, merely be-
cause they are unfortunate good-natured Germans,
who allow themselves to be oppressed ?
February 5lh.
In the distance, dear Mama, one really cannot
judge correctly of reasons for or against things,
when one does not exactly know how every thing
stands.
* Prince and Princess Hermann of Hohenlohe-Langenburg.
74 PRINCESS ALICE.
February 14th.
:i: .-I: -^y^ ^avc becii in sledges to-day, and
everybody drives about die town with tliem ; it sounds
so pretty, all the jingling bells.
* * •'=' Shakespeare's words came home to
him —
Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown.
Thank God, my husband has none ! I thank the
Almighty daily for our peaceful homely life, in which
sphere we can do a good deal of good to our fellow-
creatures, without having to mix in those hateful
politics.
Our life is a very, very happy one. I have noth-
ing on earth to wish for, and much as I loved my
precious Louis when I married him, still more do I
love him now and daily ; for his character is worthy
of love and respect, and a better husband or father,
a more unselfish and kind one, there does not live.
His love for you, you know ; and on our return
how glad we shall be to be near you once more.
February i6th.
Louis is in the Chamber to-day from nine till one,
long enough at a stretch, and immediately after
breakfast. We always breakfast at eight ; then
Louis sees the three officers who come every morn-
ing on his military business, then Westerweller and
all others who have business. We usually walk be-
fore luncheon, w^hich is at twelve ; and often drive at
two or three. At five we dine ; at half-past six,
theatre, four times a week, till half-past nine ; then
we take tea together, Louis reads to me, and I
work. On other week-days there are concerts or
parties. We are often in our new house, and in the
garden, arranging things and watching the progress.
IN HER NEW HOME. 75
We also go to lectures here, and are much occupied,
which makes the day pass so quickly.
,. • March ist.
I have learned much since I married, and, above
all, not to be dependent on others in my existence.
To be able to make a bright and comfortable home
for my dear husband is my constant aim ; but even
in this one often fails, for self constantly turns up,
like a bad sixpence. Oh, how dear Papa spoke
about that ! His whole noble life was that one brio;ht
example of sacrificing himself to his duty. Dear,
adored Papa ! such goodness, such love, when one
thinks of it, must silence all complaints of petty
troubles in the mouths of his children and servants.
You, dear Mama, are the one who suffers the
most, though this awful loss has touched all ; and to
soothe your grief and to help you lightens one's
own.
March 5 th.
* * * Spring always makes me so wchiniitJiig
[sad], I don't know why ; one longs for every thing
and any thing which is out of one's reach.
I will tell you of something I did the other day ; but
please tell no one, because not a soul but Louis and
my ladies know of it here. I am the patroness of
the " Heidcnreich Stiftung," to which you also gave
a handsome present in the beginning. The ladies
who belong to it go to bring linen to poor respect-
able Wdchnerin7ie7i [women in child-bed], who claim
their assistance. They bring them food, and, in
short, help them. All cases are reported to me.
The other day I went to one incog, with Christa, in
the old part of the town — and the trouble we had to
find the house ! At length, through a dirty court-
yard, up a dark ladder into one little room, where
76 FRJNCESS ALICE.
lay in one bed the poor woman and her baby ; in
the room four other children, the husband, two other
beds, and a stove. But it did not smell bad. nor was
it dirty. I sent Christa down with the children, then
with the husband cooked something" for the woman ;
arranged her bed a little, took her baby for her,
bathed its eyes — for they were so bad, poor little
thing ! — and did odds and ends for her. I went
twice. The people did not know me, and were so
nice, so good and touchingly attached to each other ;
it did one's heart good to see such good feelings in
poverty. The husband was out of work, the chil-
dren too young to go to school, and they had only
four kreuzers in the house when she was confined.
Think of that misery and discomfort !
If one never sees any poverty, arid always lives
in that cold circle of Court people, one's good feel-
ings dry up, and I felt the want of going about and
doing the little good that is in my power. I am
sure you will understand this.
March 14th,
My own Dear precious Mama: — These words are
for the 1 6th, the first hard trial of our lives, where I
was allowed to be with you. Do you recollect when
all was over [death of the Duchess of Kent], and
dear Papa led you to the sofa in the colonnade, and
then took me to you f I took that as a sacred re-
quest from him to love, cherish, and comfort my darl-
ing mother to all the extent of my weak powers.
Other things have taken me from being constantly
with you ; but nothing has lessened my intense love
for you, and longing to quiet every pain which
touches you, and to fulfil, even in the distance, his
request.
Oh, darling Mama, were there words in which I
IN HER NEW HOME. 77
could express to you how much I am bound up with
you, how consfantly my thoughts and prayers are
yours,! would write them. The sympathies of our
souls can only tell each other how tender my love
and gratitude to you is, and how vividly I feel every
new trial or new thing with you and for you. * * *
I was with another poor woman, even worse off,
this morning, and on the third day she was walking
in the room and nearly fainted from weakness,
Those poor people !
March 26th.
* * * Yesterday morning at nine we took the
Sacrament — all the family and congregation together.
The others then stopped for the rest of the service,
till after eleven. I went home and returned for the
English service at twelve. At half-past six, in the
Stadtkirche, Bach's " Passion " was given.
April 5th.
To-day is Victoria's birthday. What a day it was
this time last year ! Baby has her table in the room
next to my sitting-room. Uncle Louis and the rest
of the family expected to breakfast with us at
twelve.
Munich, April nth.
* * ^ To-day, for the first time since the King's
death,* the Queen and we all with our Gefolge
[suite] dined in the Winter Garden. It seemed to
try her very much, but she is so wonderfully quiet
that she scarcely shows it. I was three hours with
her yesterday evening. She spoke so kindly of you
and with such sympathy and interest, and said, when
dear Papa died, she had prayed for you so much.
* King Maximilian II. of Bavaria had died on the loth of Ihe preceding
month of March. The Queen is a sister of Prince Louis' mother.
78 PRINCESS ALICE.
Munich, April 13th.
* * * Between sight-seeing, and going to the
Queen's room, and being with her, I have not a mo-
ment scarcely to rest or write. Yesterday we visited
the whole Schloss full of frescoes, and the studios
of all the famous painters — so interesting. How dear
Papa would have enjoyed it ! I was thinking the
whole time what he would have thought of certain
pictures, and how much he would have admired
some. But at all times seeing things, and most of
all pictures, is fatiguing.
Darmstadt, April 21st.
* '^ ^' On Monday Louis goes into the coun-
try to shoot capercailzies \_Atccr ha/me]. I accom-
pany him part of the way, but stop at Schweinsberg
with Christa's parents. The air is very good there,
and we thought the country would do me good.
* * * We shall leave probably later [for Eng-
land], after or just before your birthday. We have
a great deal to do in London for our house, for which
I should want a week ; and from Windsor to leave
you for a whole week I should not like, and to go up
constantly is rather tiring.
We go from Mayence to Rotterdam by steamer,
from thence by rail to Antwerp, and then wait
for good weather to cross, so that we shall be long
under way, but quite easily and comfortably.
April 25th.
* * * We shall leave the week of your birth-
day. Louis wishes us to have a full fortnight in
London.
Schweinsberg, April 28th.
* * * This is a charming country house, in a
lovely healthy country ; the air has already done me
IN HER NEW HOME. 79
much good. Christa's parents are charming, clever
people, and the life is quiet and refreshing. On
Saturday I expect Louis, and then we shall go
home.
Darmstadt, May 14th.
Many thanks for your letter, and above all for
your great kindness about the ships, for which I
thank you many times.
Christa and Becker wrote an account of the wed-
ding, * so I won't write any more about it save that
it went off very well and was very vornehin and well-
arrano-ed. * * *
I have borne the fatigues well ; but two days
before, for two days and one night, I was very unwell.
* * * Dr. Weber is a clever man, and is
vielseitig [many-sided] in his views on medicine and
treatment of illnesses. I think you will like him.
Baby runs alone through two rooms without fall-
ing now ; she learnt it in a week. She will amuse
you so much. Yesterday Louis drove me and his
two brothers in a break, and baby went with us much
enchanted.
May 17th.
* * * To-morrow afternoon Fritz and Anna
leave. To-day the town gives a large ball, to which
we all go, and before it there is a dinner at the
Schloss.
May 2 1 St.
* * * It is excessively hot, which makes me
so tired and weak. I am sure you suffered dread-
fully from the heat.
. The parting from Anna three days ago was dread-
ful ; she so distressed, and her parents also. "^^ * *
* Of the Princess Anna of Ilesse with the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-
Schwerin.
8o PRINCESS ALICE.
They begin their old age alone, so to say, for there
are no children in their house any more. It makes
us both very sad to leave them, and seems so unfeel-
ing; but we shall return to them soon. What a
blessing that you have Beatrice and two brothers, still
boys ; and yet, for one alone what an anxiety !
Marlborough House, May 26th.
Arrived here at half- past eleven, and quite rested.
I at once write to you to thank you for your letter
and for the great comfort of the ships. I feel so
much better already from the air on the Rhine those
two days, and the fresh sea air, that I have borne the
journey this way with but little fatigue. I find
Bertie and Alix both looking well, and the baby
so pretty and dear.
1 slept during the whole night passage, as I went
to bed early. I had about twelve hour's sleep,
which has completely set me up. Louis is paying
visits. We have lunched, and in the afternoon Bertie
and Alix have promised to call on Lady Augusta and
Dean Stanley, and we join them. Aunt Cambridge
and Mary we shall see afterward.
[From May to August the Princess was in Eng-
land on a visit to the Queen.]
Kranichstein, August 30th.
* * * I have stood the journey well, though I am
rather fatigued. It is very warm. Louis is off to
Jugenheim. I am to go there to-morrow, and it
takes my whole day, as it is so far. I have seen
none of the family yet. I was so distressed to part
from dear Ernest and Marie, they were so dear and
good all along the journey.. The weather was beau-
tiful and the passage good.
IN HER NEW HOME. 8 1
September 2d,
* * * I am so glad that, from all accounts, every
thing* went off so very well at Perth*; it must have
been most trying to you, and yet satisfactory. We
read all the accounts you kindly sent us with much
interest.
* * ^' The Emperor [of Russia] with his second
and third sons arrived yesterday. We saw him at
the station at Darmstadt, but did not join them as
the rest of the family did. We go to Jugenheim to-
day and baby with us, as little Serge, f who is just
Beatrice's age, has such a passion for her. The
children are very nice, the two older sons very big.
Uncle Gustav is here, which makes me think of you
here this time last year.
September 13th.
* * "^ Two days ago we had intense heat, and
since great cold — the two extremes constantly,
which is so unwholesome. The Emperor is very
grateful for your message, and sends his best re-
membrance. '^ '^ ^ There were seven young men
to dinner yesterday, and your glass was used for the
first time and looked so pretty.
September 17 th.
* * ■^'' The Emperor and Empress [of Russia] be-
fore leaving took a most tender farewell of us, and
she gave me their Order. They return to Darm-
stadt on the 27th for a fortnight, as it is now settled
that the Empress is to spend the winter at Nice, and
she may not go there till the beginning of October
at the soonest, as it would be too warm.
* * '■^- We are in the middle of the second vol-
* The unveiling of a statue of the Prince Consort.
f Grand Duke Serge.
82 PRINCESS ALICE.
ume of Froude,* but it is too detailed to interest
you ; you have far too much to do to be interested
in it. * * "'^' Robertson's beautiful sermons we
have also read together, and I have discovered
that a German translation exists, and have ordered
one.
Mrs. Hardinge f leaves me the end of this month,
I am sorry to say ; for she is very nice, discreet, and
ready to do any thing, and not at all of the present
bad English ^^«r^.
September 20th.
* * * What you say about the poor sisters,
and indeed of all the younger ones, is true. The little
brothers and Beatrice are those who have lost the
most, poor little things ! I can't bear to think of it,
for dear Papa, more peculiarly than any other father,
was wanted for his children ; and he was the dear
friend, and even playfellow, besides. Such a loss as
ours is indeed unique. Time only increases its
magnitude, and the knowledge of the want is felt
more keenly.
* * * I was yesterday in our little house,
arraneine and clearinaf out the rooms. We shall
have very close quarters, but it will not be un-
comfortable.
■<• :;: * J often wish dear Papa could have seen
what a treasure I have in my darling ; but I am sure
he does see it, and his blessing with yours rests on us,
for we seem not separated from either of you, our
life is so interwoven with yours.
Where people are unselfish, loving, good, and in-
* The History of England from the Fall of Wolsey to the Death of
Elizabeth.
\ Wife of General the Hon. Arthur Hardinge, who was on a visit to the
Princess.
IN HER NEW HOME. 83
dustrious, like my dear Louis, I always feel a certain
likeness beginning to grow up with our dear angel
Fatlier ! Don't you? Oh, may we all only become
like him! I struggle so hard, dear Mama, in the
many little trials 1 daily have, to become more like
him. My trials melt away when I think of you,
and I wish I were ereat and strongr to be able to
bear some of your great trials for you. Dear Mama,
how I love you! how we both love you, and would
shield you with our love from all new blows and trials,
you know. God comfort you ! My heart is often
too full to say all that is in it ; to tell you all my love
and devotion, for your own precious sake, and for
dear Papa's, who left you as a legacy to us all to love
and to cherish for him.
September 23d.
To-morrow Louis, I, and my two ladies, take the
sacrament in the little church here. I wished much
to take it before my hour of trial comes. Dear
Louis read to me yesterday evening Robertson's
sermon on the " Sympathy of Christ."
We have fine autumn weather, and I am out as
much as I can. * *"" '^' I sleep well and break-
fast always at half-past eight ; we dine at two, and
take supper at eight, then my ladies read aloud, and
I work or Christa plays, Louis reads his papers, etc.
To myself I read Lord Malmesbury's " Memoirs,"
which are very curious, and when Louis has time he
reads Froude to me.
Kranichstein, October 4th.
•5C- * * To-morrow dear Uncle Leopold [King
of the Belgians] comes for a few hours. Louis will
go to Darmstadt or Mayence to meet him, and I will
receive him at the station, as none of the family know
84 PRINCESS ALICE.
him. Louis is out shooting with the Emperor.
Uncle Alexander's throat has already begun to be
bad aoain.
* -A- % I ^j^ writing quite a confused letter in
the midst of household troubles, for the Emperor
and Empress have just let me know that they wish
to breakfast here, and Louis is out, and I don't know
where or how to have the things in our small menage.
I must therefore conclude and do my business.
October 7th.
-X- ^t -jf J |^^(-| the pleasure of seeing dear Uncle
two days ago looking wonderfully well, and kind and
dear as ever. * ^' * To-day I must go to a
large family dinner. Fritz and Anna of Hesse,
Grand Duchess Marie, and Prince and Princess
William of Baden, besides ourselves, the family, and
the Emperor and Empress.
Darmstadt, October 14th.
We are at length here, in great disorder, and I
have been waiting half an hour only for a j^en to be
found. I am tired and not very well. * * *
Augusta [Lady Augusta Stanley] being with you I
am very glad of, and she must be such a comfort to
you, for besides being such a friend, she has that
peculiar charm of manner which all the Bruces possess.
October 21st.
"" * * I am so grieved about poor Louise ;
she will want much care and attention.
Lady Car. [Caroline Barrington] is here since
yesterday evening to my great delight, and is not
looking the worse for her journey.
October 29th.
* * * To-morrow we expect Vicky and Fritz
[Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia] for two
IN HER NEW HOME. 85
hours, and later Bertie and Alix on their way back
from AmorbachT for a few hours. I shall be delighted
to se,8 them.
October 31st.
* * * Yesterday we had the pleasure of hav-
ing dear Vicky and Fritz and baby here for two
hours, the former well and in such good looks, as I
have not seen her for long. The baby is a love, and
very pretty. We were very glad after a year's sep-
aration to meet again, and Vicky was so dear and
loving. I always admire her understanding and
brio-htness each time I see her arain ; and Fritz so
good, so excellent. Bertie and Alix we expect in a
day or two for a short visit. It is very cold, but
not unpleasant. I go out twice a day.
Darmstadt, November 7th.
* * * The little daughter * was but a momen-
tary disappointment to us, which we have quite got
over. We console ourselves with the idea that the
little pair will look very pretty together.
November 20th.
* * ■^•'- We are both very much pleased at the
arrangements about Brown and your pony, and I
think it is so sensible. I am sure it will do you
good, and relieve a little the monotony of your out-
of-door existence, besides doing your nerves good.
I had long wished you would do something of the
kind ; for, indeed, only driving is not wholesome.
* "'■ '" I have had two drives, which have done me
good. "• -5^ ■«• My mother-in-law has been kind-
ness itself all along — so attentive and yet so discreet.
I can't be grateful enough. My good father-in-law
also. " "■ ''' Louis' mother is to be godmother,
*The Princess Elizabeth was born on the ist of November, 1864.
86 PRINCESS ALICE.
because it is customary here to ask some one of the
name the child is to receive to stand on the occasion.
We Hked Elizabeth on account of St. EHzabeth
beine the ancestress of the Hessian as well as the
Saxon House.
November 26th.
% :;: * -^g probably go to Carlsruhe on Wed-
nesday, the only place we can well go to near by ;
we can't take an inn at Baden or any thing of that
sort, and we only go for a week or ten days at most.
* * ■^" I am very well and very careful ; all peo-
ple say I look better, and have more color than I
have had for long, and, indeed, I feel strong and
well, and my fat baby does perfectly, and is a great
darline. Affie and Louis and his brother are out
shooting. The horrid weather has kept me in these
three days.
November 29th.
* * * I ought to mention the christening.
My mother-in-law held baby all the time, and it
screamed a eood deal. Victoria stood with us and
was very good, only kneeling down and tumbling
over the footstool every two minutes, and she kept
whispering to me, " Go to Uncle's." I thought so
much of the christening last year, when Victoria be-
haved much better than her larger dark sister. Ella
measured twenty-three and a half inches a fortnight
ago, and she had not grown then. Victoria, I be-
lieve, was twenty inches.
Carlsruhe, December 5th.
* * * Dear Dr. Macleod is coming with Affie to
Darmstadt for the 14th. Vicky and Fritz will be
with us also. How kind of him to come, and it has
made Affie so happy, for he is so devoted to him.
IN HER NEW HOME. 8/
Darmstadt, December loth.
* * * We returned here yesterday, after a very
pleasant stay at Carlsruhe. It was very quiet, and
we were always en famille. We had the oppor-
tunity of speaking much with Fritz, who is in every
"w^ay so distinguished, and dear Louise is so good
and kind.
I have very little time to write to-day, as we ar-
rived late last night. Louis has to be absent to-day,
so I have a great deal to do.
December 15th.
I had not a moment to myself to write to you
yesterday, and to thank you for the kind lines you
sent me through dear Dr. Macleod. He gave us a
most beautiful service, a sermon giving an outline of
dear Papa's noble, great and good character, and
there were most beautiful allusions to you in his
prayer, in which we all prayed together most
earnestly for you, precious Mama !
We talked lonsf toQfether afterward about dear
Papa, and about you, and though absent were very
near you in thought and prayer.
Dear Vicky talked so lovingly and tenderly of
you, and of how homesick she sometimes felt. She
was not with us on that dreadful day three years
ago, and that is so painful to her. Dear Affie was,
as we all were, so much overcome by all Dr. Mac-
leod said. Vicky, Affie, Louis, and myself sat in
the little dining-room ; he read to us there. Fritz
had left early in the morning. The day was passed
quietly and peaceably together, and I was most
grateful to have dear Vicky and Affie with me on
that day. My dear Louis wishes me to express to
you how tenderly he thought of you and with what
sympathy on this sad anniversary. Never can we
88 PRINCESS ALICE.
cease talking of home, of you and of all your trials.
God bless and comfort you, my own dear Mama 1
1865.
In the month of January of this year the Prince
and Princess were at last able to carry out their in-
tentions of visiting Berlin, which had several times
been postponed. The Princess met with the great-
est kindness and attention from the King and Queen
of Prussia, who had been much attached to her since
her childhood.
A great grief fell upon the Grand Ducal family
through the death of the young Grand Duchess of
Mecklenburg-Schwerin, Prince Louis' only sister,
whose recent marriage had given so much satisfac-
tion to the family, and who died on the i6th of
April, a few days after giving birth to a daughter.
About the same time, the Cesarewitch Nicholas,
eldest son of the Emperor of Russia, died at Nice.
He was his mother's favorite son, and had been en-
gaged to be married to Princess Dagmar of Den-
mark (present Empress of Russia), the sister of the
Princess of Wales. Princess Alice endeavored with
all a daughter's love and sympathy to cheer her par-
ents-in-law under their heavy bereavement.
While the Prince and Princess were absent in
Switzerland at the Rigi Kaltbad in the Bernese
Alps, Queen Victoria spent one day at Kranichstein,
and on the 26th of August gathered all her children
IN HER NE IV HOME. 89
round her at Coburg. On that day the Prince Con-
sort's statue on the market-place at Coburg was un-
veiled. '
The yearly visit to England took place in the
autumn, and the Prince and Princess spent a longer
time than usual in the Highlands, where they made
many delightful excursions.
Soon after their return to Germany, the sad news
reached them of the death of the Kine of the Bel-
gians. Endeared by his personal character to his
family and friends, he was also by reason of his
statesmanlike qualities recognized as one of the most
remarkable sovereigns of Europe.
Allhouofh Princess Alice had lived but a short
time at Darmstadt, she had already become the ac-
knowledged centre of social life in that town. Her
liberal and independent spirit, conflicting as it did
with many local prejudices, exposed her to many
criticisms; still, no one who came in contact with
her could resist the charm of her appearance and
manner. The Princess had, so to speak, not "yet
taken root" in her adopted country ; but, acute and
close observer as she was, she soon found where her
own sphere of occupation lay, and what the agencies
were by which she could work out her plans.
Her letters show the love she bore to her new
family, and the many useful enterprises which she
now initiated for the well being of the country.
January ist.
* * * Thousand thanks for your dear words
go PRINCESS ALICE.
and for the wishes ! I was thinking so much of you
and of home, when your letter came in. It made
me so happy ! Darhng Mama, I can feel so much
with and for you during these days. I was all day
on the verge of tears, for the very word "■Netijahr"
brought Papa and Grandmama, and all at Windsor
as in former days, so vividly before me, it made my
heart ache ! That bright happy past, particularly
those last years, when I was the eldest at home, and
had the privilege of being so much with you both,
my own dearly loved parents, is a remembrance
deeply graven, and with letters of gold, upon my
heart. All the morning- I was tellinor Louis how it
used to be at home, and how we all assembled out-
side your dressing-room door to scream in chorus
''Prosit NeiijaJir ! " and to give to you and Papa our
drawings, writings, etc., the busy occupation of pre-
vious weeks. Then playing and reciting our pieces,
where we often stuck fast, and dear Papa bit his lip
so as not to laugh ; our walk to the riding-school
[where the alms to the poor were distributed], and
then to Frogmore. Those were happy days, and
the very remembrance of them must bring a gleam
of sunshine even to you, dear Mama. Those two
dinners, when I was with you both, were such happy
evenings. I am so grateful I remained at home,
and lost not a day of those happy ones.
At eight this morning we two went to church ; at
half-past three there was a large dinner at the Schloss.
I wore the bracelet with your pictures, as I always
do on all particular days, for I like to be able to look
at those dear faces.
January 2d.
We mean to go out sledging. The cold, and all
the ground being white this last month, has given
IN HER NEW HOME. 9 1
me such bad eyes. I can do nodiing of an evening
at all, and readings even by daylight makes them so
bad that they get quite red. The ladies read to me,
instead, all sorts of instructive things. Louis has
already found time to read through a whole volume
of the " Lives of the Engineers." * You could not
have sent any thing that would interest him more.
He thanks you so much for the pretty New Year's
wish also.
January 14th.
Thousand thanks for your dear letter, for the nice
enclosure from Dr. Macleod, and for the beautiful
sermon by Dean Stanley. One remark struck me
as singularly applicable to dear Papa, where he
says : " To die is gain ; to be no longer vexed with
the sight of evil, which they cannot control," etc. —
for dear Papa suffered when he saw others do
wrong ; it pained that good pure spirit : and though
we long for him and want him, if we could call
him back — even you who want him so much, I
think would pause before you gave vent to the wish
that would recall him. -^ •^- *
When trials come, what alone save faith and hope
in a blessed future can sustain one !
* * * You can't think how much I am inter-
ested in every little detail of your daily life. Besides,
you know it cannot be otherwise. Please say kind-
est things to Brown, f who must be a great con-
venience to you.
January 20th.
* * :!: yi^g more one studies and tries to un-
derstand those wonderful laws which rule the world,
the more one wonders, worships, and admires that
* By Dr. Samuel Smiles.
\ John Brown, the Queen's personal attendant.
92 PRINCESS ALICE.
which to us is so incomprehensible ; and I always
wonder how there can be dissatisfied and orrumbline
people in this beautiful world, so far too good for
our deserts, and where, after our duty is done, we
hope to be everlastingly with those we love, where
the joy will be so great and lasting that present sor-
row and trouble must melt away before that sun-
shine.
January 23d.
* * * We have rain and warm high wind,
and leave at four o'clock this afternoon. Ella has
her bath as a bed, and Victoria sleeps in the bassinet,
which is done up with chintz for the occasion. I don't
think they can catch cold. There is a stove in the
centre compartment besides. You can fancy I feel
shy going to Berlin into a perfectly new society; and
I have been so little out on the whole since the year
1 86 1. Marie Grancy'^^ goes with us.
Berlin, January 29th.
* "' * The journey went off very well, and we
are so happy to be here. Vicky and Fritz are kind-
ness itself, and Vicky so dear, so loving ! I feel it
does me good, that there is a reflection of Papa's
great mind in her. He loved her so much, and was
so proud of her. The King is, as always, very kind,
and so pleased to see us here. Louis is very happy
to meet his old comrades again, and they equally so
to see him ; and I am so glad that he can have this
amusement at least, for he is so kind in not leaving
me — and our life must be rather dull sometimes for
a young man of spirit like him.
Berlin, February ist.
* * * Affie arrived at eiofht this morningf. I
* One of the Princess' ladies in waiting.
IN HER NEW HOME, 93
am sure the King will be so pleased at your having
let him come no\V. He is so kind to me ; it touches
me very much, for I have never done any thing to
deserve it.
Berlin, February 4th.
% % % Y have not been sight-seeing anywhere,
as it is too cold for that. We drive in a shut car-
riage, and then walk in the Thiergarten. We spend
the whole day together, which is a great enjoyment
to me, and of an evening we go out together. It is
so pleasant to have a sister to go out with, and all
the people are so kind and civil to us.
Sigismund '^ is the greatest darling I have ever
seen — so wonderfully strong and advanced for his
age — with such fine color, always laughing, and so
lively he nearly jumps out of our arms.
This house is very comfortable, and Vicky is sur-
rounded with pictures of you and dear Papa — near
her bed, on all her tables — and such endless souve-
nirs of our childhood : it made me quite zvehmuthig
[sad] to see all the things I had not seen for seven
years, and since we lived together as children —
souvenirs of Christmases and birthdays from you
both, and from dear Grandmama, from Aunt Glou-
cester, etc. It awakened a thousand old remem-
brances of happy past times.
Berlin, February 7th.
* * * How much do I think of you now, the
happy Silver Wedding that would have been, where
you could have been surrounded by so many of us!
Poor Mama, I do feel so deeply for you. Oh, may
I be long, if not altogether, spared so awful a
calamity!
* Then the Crown Princess' youngest child.
94 PRINCESS ALICE.
Morning', noon, and night do I thank the Almighty
for our happiness, and pray that it may last.
These lines are for the dear loth,* though they
will reach you on the eve ; and they are to tell you
from Louis and myself how tenderly we think of you
on that day, and of darling Papa, who made that
day what it was. It will be a day of great trial to
you, I fear. May the Almighty give you strength
and courage to bear it! I am sure the dear sisters
and brothers who are at home will try to cheer you
with their different loving ways — above all, little
Beatrice, the youngest of us all.
Louis goes to Schwerin to-morrow until Friday.
They wanted us to go together, but one journey is
enough at this time of the year.
Berlin, February nth.
* «• :i: \Yg have been sledging these two days ;
it is very cold, and the rooms mostly very hot.
When we go out of an evening, we are packed up
from head to foot. My dear Louis returned from
Schwerin at five this morning, pleased with his visit.
He found the Castle fine and comfortable, and its
inmates very happy.
Berlin, February 14th.
* "* * We leave next Saturday. I shall be so
sorry to leave dear Vicky, for she is often so much
alone. Fritz is really so excellent, it is a pleasure
to look at his dear good face ; and he is worked so
hard — no health can stand it in the lone run.
Berlin, February 17th.
* ■"■ ^' This will be my last letter from here,
and I only regret leaving here on account of parting
with dear Vicky and Fritz, whom we see so rarely,
* The anniversary of the Queen's marriage.
IN HER NEW HOME. 95
and usually but for a short time. I have passed such
pleasant hours wirh dear Vicky : that is what I shall
look back to with so much pleasure and satisfaction.
Dar:\istadt, February 21st.
I write once more from our dear little home, which
I find very cold ; snow and ice everywhere still — it
seems as if w^inter would never end. We accom-
plished our journey very well. Poor Vicky will miss
us very much, I fear, in the many hours when she is
alone, and which we spent together. Writing does
not make up for it.
We fjive a laro-e masked ball in the Palace at
-I • •
Fastnacht [Shrove Tuesday], which is to-day week.
It is the first thing we do for the society, and I hope
it will go off well. I found so much to do since my
return that I can write no more.
BeforeclosingI must mention though, thatyesterday
evening I heard " Elijah" beautifully given. How I
thought of dear Papa ! Nearly every note brought
back to mind observations he made about it. I
thought I could see him, and hear his dear sweet
voice turning round to me with quite watery eyes,
saying, '' Es ist dock gar zu sch6?i" [''It is really
quite too lovely."]
Adored Papa! how he loved this fine music ; the
harmony in it seems like the harmony of souls, and
Mendelssohn's music is so good, fromm [pious] — I
mean, it makes one better to hear it. In the second
part, in an air of " Elijah" toward the end, I found the
part from which those beautiful responses are taken
which Cusins arranged, and which Papa liked so
much.
February 27th.
* * * I can write but a very short letter to-day,
having so much to do for our ball. I have made a
96 PEIN'CESS ALICE.
sketch of my costume, which is the same I wore
at BerHn at the masked iDall at Putbuses. Louis
wears part of the Garter Costume.
March 4th,
* * * My parents-in-law leave the middle of
this month for Schwerin. * ^' * My mother-in-
law fears that Anna will be badly managed and
treated quite after the old fashion, and she won't be
able to help her, she fears. Anna is not very strong,
and if she is starved and kept from the air, it
will certainly do her harm.
I have written to dear Tilla.* To think of home
without her seems too sad, but I hope you will invite
her sometimes. Every one liked her in the house,
she was so gentle and so kind. I shall never forget
what I owe her, and I ever loved her most dearly.
But she has never been the same ao^ain since 1861.
It gave her a dreadful shock ; she had such a venera-
tion for darling Papa.
I hope this year we can show you our house,
though it will not be far enough advanced for you to
live in. For another year, I hope, we could make
you so comfortable.
Darmstadt, March 6th.
* * "■ I am reading at this moment a book by
Herr von Arneth — the publication of letters from
Maria Theresa to Marie Antoinette from 1770-80.
I recommend it to you. The letter are short and in-
teresting, and it would amuse you to take it up now
and then, when you have a leisure moment. The
advice the Empress gives her daughter is so good ;
she was a very wise mother.
I have read and studied a great deal about the
human body ; about children — their treatment, etc.
* Miss Hildyard, the Princes-.' former English governess.
IN HER NEW HOME. 97
It interests me immensely. Besides, it is always
useful to know such things, so that one is not per-
fectly ignorant of the reasons why doctors wish one
to do certain things, and why not. In any moment
of illness, before there is time for a doctor to come,
one can be able to help one's self a little. I know you
don't like these things, and where one is surrounded
by such as dear Sir James [Clark] and Dr. Jenner, it
is perfectly unnecessary and pleasanter not to know
a good deal. Instead of findino- it disirustinor. it
only fills me with admiration to see how wonderlully
we are made.
Darmstadt, March nth.
■A * * Westerweller does not accompany us
this time to England ; he may join us in June. A
former playfellow of Louis, Ferdinand Rabenau, ac-
companies us. Affie knows him and likes him. We
think of starting on the 3d, and passing by Brussels
to see dear Uncle Leopold. Uncle Louis is still at
Nice, and does not return here, it seems, until
the Emperor and Empress meet for April 24th — the
Emperor's birthday. My mother-in-law is very
grateful for your kind message. She seems very
nervous about Anna.
Victoria is teething, which makes her pale and
poorly. Ella's vaccination did not take, and we have
the small-pox here.
March i8th.
My poor children have been confined to the house
with dreadful colds and coughs. Victoria looks the
most pulled, though Ella's cough was much more
violent. I am happy to say that they are really
better to-day ; but we have snow every day, and
that makes their recovery slower.
Yesterday night part of a large seed manufactory
98 PJilNCESS ALICE.
close by, near the artillery barracks, was burnt down.
The flames were enormous, but the damage done
was not crreat.
My parents-in-law are in Berlin, and after to-mor-
row they go to Schwerin.
Last night we heard Cost fan tutte given to perfec-
tion. The music is most charming, and I had never
heard it before.
April ist.
" * "^ Since some days the snow is many feet
deep ; one can get about in sledges, and Louis drove
me in one with four horses this morning. All inter-
course by carriage is impossible, and this is very in-
convenient to the people in the country where their
" Post " cannot drive.
April 4th.
I must begin by telling you how much pleasure your
telegram has given me. It is like my own dear Mama
to have her arms open for those who want her kind
support ; and I can only repeat again, that with you,
and under your care alone, should I like to leave my
litde ones so long! To them, indeed, it will in every
way be an advantage, and I shall be quite easy in
leaving them there, where I know they will have
every care which can be given ; and it would make
us both so happy to feel that in this way we could
give you some little pleasure.
Westerweller and Becker both wish very much we
may take this winter, D.V., for a journey. As long
as we have fewer servants and this small house, it is
easy to break up the whole establishment — later,
this will be less possible. Louis has never been
able to travel, and the advantage of seeing other
parts of the world would be so great for him.
Without me he would not do it; he says, alone he
IN HER NEW HOME. 99
should not enjoy it. I urge this journey principally
for his sake, and 1 hope you will support me in this.
Since crur marriao"e we have seen nothing;;, and all
who can try to enlarge their knowledge. From
books alone it becomes tedious and less advan-
tageous.
Victoria is going to have a party of thirty children
to-morrow in Prince Charles' rooms. The snow is
thawine at leno-th, and the sun is much too hot.
The sudden spring is not pleasant. We have been
out riding, and this evening I shall accompany
Louis to the Schnepfenstrich [woodcock-shooting'''],
which in a fine evening, when the birds sing, is
lovely.
April 8ih.
:)-. :;: * ^^ ^ shall be delighted to receive you in
Kranichstein, and if you will send your suite all to
Darmstadt we shall be able to arrange, though we
have not one spare room anywhere, and I feel you
will be rather squeezed. How I look forward to
meeting you again, after a year of separation, I can't
say ; and I am so glad that it will be under our roof
that our joyful embrace will take place. As Uncle
Louis is to have the Garter, may not Affie bring it
to him without ceremony ? He would like it so
much better if it can be so.
On the 17th Louis goes to Oberhessen to shoot
capercailzies, and he deposits me and the children at
Lich on his way, where he will join us again for my
birthday.
Anna was safely delivered of a little girl this
morning, and is doing well.
April 15111.
* :!: :i: \Y^ liave bccn very anxious about
* This sport is practised in the evening twilight.
lOO FJilNCESS ALICE.
Anna * the last few days, for she has had fever since
the 9th, and shiverlni^ still yesterday.
We have a great deal to do this morning, so I can
write but shortly.
We have fine weather at length, and are out a
great deal.
Yesterday we took the Sacrament at nine, and
numbers of people with us. The service lasted till
past eleven, with a pause between.
April 1 8th.
This is really a dreadfully sad death in our family,
and will be a blow to my dear parents-in-law, which
will weigh them down for many a day. They who
lived so retired, and to whom the family life was all
— Anna, the pet — "das Prinzesschen," whom they
gave up so unwillingly, and with whom they corres-
ponded daily ! It will be a blank in their existence,
which I can't bear to think of! Such tender lovinof
parents! My poor Louis was dreadfully distressed,
though he feared the worst all along since we knew
that Anna had fever. He left with Grolmann, having
passed a dreadful morning. All the old servants,
tutors, friends, came crying to us. Since he is gone
I have passed sad lonely hours ; and poor old Ame-
lung comes f and sits in my room, sobbing that she
should ever have lived to see this day.
Yesterday morning I went to the Rosenhahe and
picked flowers from Anna's garden, and wound a
large wreath, which I have sent to Louis to place on
her coffin. The three brothers feel it dreadfully —
the first rent in the family circle is always hard to
bear, and she so young, so good, so happy ! I hear
the poor little baby is nice.
* Prince Louis' sister, the Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Schwerin
She died on the i6th of April, 1865.
f Nurse of the Prince Louis and his brothers and sister.
IN HER NEW HOME. 1 01
Yesterday night Anna was taken into the Schloss-
kirche [Palace Cliapel] upon Louis' arrival, after a
journey of twenty-seven hours. I hope he won't be
ill after' all this Gemiithsbewegitng [strain upon his
feelings], and fatigue always upsets him and makes
him sick, and he feels all so deeply and warmly. It
is so shocking. I can think of nothing else ; and I
am very low and sad being so alone, and the warm
weather makes one unwell.
The poor Cesarewitch has passed a tolerable
night. I fear he is so reduced he can't get through
it. The Empress doats on this son, and he is so
like her. The poor Emperor has left for Nice.
April 2 1 St.
Oh, it is sad, very sad! Life indeed is but a
short journey, on which we have our duty to do, and
in which joy and sorrow alternately prevail. Anna
was very good, very unselfish, and a true Christian,
with her gentle, humble spirit, and as such she was
loved and admired. What rare people my parents-
in-law and their children are, I can't tell you — such
childlike faith, such pure unselfish love to each other;
I really feel unworthy to belong to them, and they
are dear to me beyond description. As I have
shared their joys, so with all my heart do I share
their sorrow, and fervently pray for them ! You
will understand this, darling Mama. From you I
have inherited an ardent and sympathizing spirit,
and feel the pain of those I love as though it were
my own. To-morrow I have wished that there
should be in the Palace Chapel a funeral service at
the same time as the funeral at Schwerin.and all the
people here seemed pleased at my wish. Bender,
who taught her, confirmed her, and who married her
not a year ago in that very church, will perform the
service.
I02 PRINCESS ALICE.
Poor Dagmar! what a journey for her, poor child!
She begins her troubles early enough.
April 24th.
* * * Many thanks for your kind letter, and
for all the kind wishes for my birthday. It will be
sad and quiet ; but I hope my beloved Louis will
arrive to-night, and be with me again — such cause
for joy and thankfulness. When I have kim, all
sorrow is turned into peace and happiness. Could I
but know you still had darling Papa at your side,
how light would my heart be ! Once when we have
all fulfilled our allotted duties, and overcome that
dark night, then, please God, we shall be together,
never again to part !
The sympathy of all does my sorrowing family
good, for it soothes so much ! I had a few lines so
tender, so full of faith, from my dear mother-in-law
to-day. Since Ella's birth I know to understand and
love her most dearly. She suffered dreadfully, but
no complaint passes her lips. She consoles her hus-
band, her son-in-law, and this, with prayer, enables
her to bear that which has almost broken her heart.
April 25 th.
* * * Dear Louis returned last night well, and
bringing good accounts of his parents. They re-
main there still a little longer, to arrange Anna's
things. At Frankfort, at eleven last night, we met ;
it was so warm.
The poor Cesarewitch is gone ! The Emperor
and Empress are coming here in ten days ; what sad
meetings.
How warm it has been daily since a fortnight, I
can't tell you ! We sit all day in the garden, take
tea there, drawing-lessons, etc.
I.V HER NEW HOME. IO3
April 29th.
I thank you scinuch for your kind sympathizing
letter. ,A11 my family are so grateful for all the
kindness and sympathy you have shown them on
this sad occasion.
To-day Uncle Louis arrives ; on Monday the
Emperor and Empress, and children. What a sad
meeting ! They go to Jugenheim direct, where last
year they were so happy all together. I hear the
Empress is worn out, mind and body ; and she in-
sists, instead of finishinof her cure, on croinof in a
fortniorht to St. Petersburof to meet the remains of
her child, and to do him the last honors. Louis
fears that it will be more than her feeble frame can
endure. In the Greek Church, too, the night Masses
are long and exhausting, and she is sure to wish to
do all.
We spent my birthday as every other day, and
the weather was heavenly. I am painting in oil
now, and that interests me much. I find it much
easier than water-colors.
I hope Affie will come to pay his respects to the
Russians. If you send them a kind message through
him, it would please them much.
May 2d.
* * ^' How well I understand your compas-
sion being alike for mourners in all positions of life.
It is but right and natural, and I can't imagine one's
feeling otherwise.
May 6th.
To-morrow morning my poor parents-in-law ar-
rive. What a meeting, and what a return ! My
father-in-law and the Empress * are each other's
favorites, and understand each other so perfectly.
* She was the only sister of Prince Charles of Hesse.
104 PH IN CESS ALICE.
It will be a consolation to both to pour their hearts
out to each other, and share each other's sorrow.
My dear father-in-law wrote to Aunt Marie : " Al-
though my heart is sorely depressed, yet it is even
more filled with gratitude than with sorrow, that the
dear God has given us two such dear children,
though but for a brief space." He is so touching in
his grief.
May 8th.
I find my dear parents-in-law pretty well, but
poor Mama so terribly tired. She was dread-
lully overcome in coming home, and at the several
meetings. He looks much older, as, indeed, does
also the poor Emperor, who parted yesterday to go
to St. Petersburg. Dear Aunt Marie seems very
weak, and they both, together with my parents,
make such a sad picture to look at. But they all
like to speak of those they have lost. My parents-
in-law and we go this week to Uncle Louis, to See-
heim for three weeks.
Seeheim, May 12th.
You can't think what real pleasure your pretty
locket gave my mother-in-law. She was deeply
touched by the kind thought and the considerate
attention of the gift — with what was engraved on it.
She was so very much pleased with it, and put it on
the moment she received it. The photograph is to
be put in. To-day, Anna's wedding-day, it arrived.
We have been here since yesterday afternoon —
my parents-in-law and Uncle Louis. The suite are
on leave of absence, so we are quite enfamille.
Yesterday, Serge's birthday, we went with Uncle
and Aunt to the Greek Mass, which lasted more
than an hour. We dine daily at the Heiligenberg.
This morning also we were there with our parents and
IN HER NEW HOME. I05
children ; and Aunt Marie [the Empress of Russia]
kept Ella half an hour on her lap, playing with her,
which ,the little one enjoyed very much, as she is
particularly sociable and amiable. Victoria romped
with her cousins — Aunt Marie's two, and Uncle
Alexander's four.
Seeheim, May 15th.
* * * To-day Michael and Cecile arrive, and
on Tuesday the Emperor and Empress recommence
their journey homeward. The return will be for
both most trying. Aunt Marie spoke with me
about her sons, their education, etc., very long last
night. Her whole life she has studied and lived for
Nike [the late Cesarewitch], that he might become
that which was necessary for his future ; and she
was much more with him, and they were both much
more intimate together, than she is with her other
children. Affie came here on Saturday, and I am
so glad to have him and hear some news of you. At
this moment he and William are in the room shoot-
ing at a target out of the window, which makes no
little noise.
May 20th.
* * * -^^ mean to remain here in the Berg-
strasse with our parents ; is seems to console them ;
but my father-in-law makes me very anxious, and is
so nervous. Poor Mama ! so soft, so tired, so unlike
herself, celafait pitie.
On the fifth the Grand Duke is cfoinof to receive
the Garter. You shall have an account of all.
Affie is here, and to-day dear Arthur comes for a
few hours. I shall be so pleased to see him again.
Seeheim, May 21st.
-jf -x- -x- Yesterday the Emperor and Empress
and children left. So sorry to see them go ! God
I06 PRINCESS ALICE.
knows when we shall all meet here aeain. We have
been so much together and so intimately, that I
have grown very fond of them, and am very sad at
the thought of the long and uncertain separation.
Dear little Arthur was here, looking very well. The
wooded hills here are so nice to ride about on, and
the country is very beautiful.
May 31st.
I read serious books a great deal, and of a Sun-
day together we read out of Robertson's sermons.
In the second series there is one, " The Irreparable
Past " for young people, so cheering, so encourag-
ing, so useful. Louis read it to me on his return
from Schwerin after poor Anna's death. A short
life indeed, and it makes one feel the uncertainty of
life, and the necessity of labor, self-denial, charity,
and all those virtues which we ou^ht to strive after.
Oh, that I may die, having done my work and not
sinned with Uiiterlassung des Gotten [omission to do
what is good], the fault into which it is easiest to
fall.
Our life being so quiet gives one much time for
earnest thought, and I own it is discouraging to find
how much one fails — how small the step of improve-
ment is.
I suffer still so much, and so often, from rheuma-
tism. I am takinof warm soda-baths in the mornino-
for it, and am rubbed afterward with towels which
have been dipped in cold water and then wrung out.
It is not very pleasant.
June 4th,
* * * The weather is very beautiful, and we
had tea yesterday at Schonberg, the castle of young
Count Erbach, whom Louis presented to you at
Windsor. Could you tell us for certain when you
IX HER NEW HOME. 10/
intend going to Coburg, and when we are expected
there, as we are^oing to the sea to bathe for Vic-
toria and myself, and we would arrange our time ac-
cordingly ? I require some sea air after the great
heat, and after baby's weaning ; also before Scotland
it would be good, for I have so much rheumatism.
Some sea water will strengthen me.
June yth,
* * * You know how very Scotch we both
are. Louis is devotedly attached to Scotland and
his Scotch friends. Do tell them so always. But
now I must tell you of yesterday. In the morning
Affie, we, and our suite, drove into town for the in-
vestiture. At half past three I drove with my ladies,
a Kammerherr [Chamberlain], Becker, etc., to the
Schloss, where Uncle Louis received us in shorts !
Then Affie and Louis in their whole Garter dress
arrived in a carriage with six horses and an escort.
Uncle Louis, before the throne, and the family,
Court, corps diplomatique, etc., received them. Affie
read in English the address, to which Uncle Louis
answered in German ; then Affie buckled on the
Garter ; then Louis helped him to put on ribbon,
cloak, etc., and fastened the sword on him, which
was no easy task ; but they acquitted themselves
to perfection, and went out through the long Kaiser-
saal backward, bowing.
There was a large dinner afterward, at which your
health was proposed by Uncle Louis, and in return
Affie gave his. You have made a happy man, and
he feels the honor — as he said to me in Enoflish —
" utmostly " ; and he wishes me to repeat once more
how grateful he is to you. ''' '"'' *
Affie did not return here last night ; he slept at
Darmstadt, and left this morning for Amorbach. To-
I08 PRINCESS ALICE.
day Uncle Ernest is coming to us, but only for one
night. As we have again to go into town to fetch
him, and it is very warm, I must close.
Seeheim, June 15th.
* * * How it will amuse and please us to
show the good excellent Scotchman our home. It
is a pleasure to hear of such devotion and attention
to you as Brown's is, and indeed you are so kind to
him, that his whole happiness must consist in serv-
ing so good a mistress.
I think you will be pleased to hear of a most kind
and touching tribute which the Frauen [women] of
Darmstadt have paid me. Two hundred and fifty
have subscribed to have a splendid picture painted
for me, by P. Weber, of Loch Katrine. I am to see
it on Sunday. It is very much admired, and they
sent the painter to Scotland to do it, thinking that
something from my own country would please me
most. Is it not kind of them ? It has given me so
much pleasure — but of all things the feeling which
has prompted them to do it, as it shows me that,
though I have been here so short a time, they have
become attached to me, as I am with all my heart to
my new home and country.
Now about myself. I have weaned Ella, last Sat-
urday, and can say that my health has never been
so good, nor have I been so strong or looked so
fresh and healthy as I do now. When Uncle Ernest
saw me he said I looked again as I did as a girl,
only rather fatter.
Ella crawls now, and is very strong ; she has her
first two teeth. Victoria is very wild, and speaks
more German than English. I think her rather
small, but other people say she is not. She goes
out walking with her Papa before breakfast quite
IN HER NEW HOME. IO9
alone, with her hands in her pockets, and amuses
him very much. ^
June 19th.
Many thanks for your last letter from dear Balmo-
ral. The parting from that lovely place must always
be sad, and there is something- in mountains which
attaches one so much to that scenery.
Yesterday was a very trying day for my poor
mother-in-law (her birth-day), and she was very low,
but, as all along, so resigned, so touching in the
beautiful way she bears her grief; so unselfish with
it, never wishing to make others sad, or to be less
interested in their concerns than formerly.
Dear Mary Cambridge has been here, and we en-
joyed her visit so much. We took her back to
Frankfort to-day, where we gave her and Aunt
Cambridge a luncheon in Uncle Louis' Palais.
June 2ist.
It is warm, but very windy and dusty here ; we
were nearly blinded out riding yesterday evening. I
am reading that most interesting History of Eng-
land by Pauli, in German, which commences with
the Congress of Vienna in i8i5, and is, I believe,
very detailed and correct. It gives a sketch also of
the rei^n of Georire III., and is so well written one
can scarcely lay the book down. It is part of a
work written by the best German professors on Eng-
land, Russia, Italy, France, Spain, and Austria in
those years, and I am reading them one after
another. They are thick books, and eight volumes.
Kranichstein, July 2d.
We both thank you for your kind wishes for our
wedding-day. It was rainy and not fine, but we
spent it very happily indoors — Affie and Mary with
no PRINCESS ALICE.
US. Dr. Weber now wishes (as we should have to
go from Blankenberghe back to Coburg, and then
again all the journey back), that I should not bathe
at all this year, as all the good would be undone by
the hurried journey, and the excitement of the sea
air might not be good for Victoria. We are all to
go instead for four weeks to Switzerland, beginning
with Rigi Kaltbad, and this we greatly prefer. We
go into the mountains at once for the bracing air.
On Saturday until Tuesday we go to Baden for the
christening of the baby. We both are god-parents.
Kranichstein, July loth.
* * * Ella already says, since some time,
" Papa" and " Mama," and calls herself, and crawls,
and is very forward and merry — such a contrast to
Victoria, who is so pale and fair, and now thin, for
Ella's eyes are so dark blue, and her hair of such a
rich brown, that you would never take the little
things for sisters. They are very fond of each other,
and so dear together, that they give us much pleas-
ure. I would not change them for boys, if I could ;
this little pair of sisters is so nice, and they can be
such friends to each other.
I hope you will be comfortable here, but we are
much annoyed not to be able to be there to receive
you. None of the family will be here, save perhaps
my mother-in-law with poor Fritz Schwerin, who is
expected then.
We mean to start on the 2 5th, and we go as pri-
vate people, on account of the expense. We are
only going to Oberland, and sha'n't go very far about.
Kranichstein, July 17th,
* * * It was 95° in the shade yesterday at
eight in the morning, and I think the heat increases.
IN HER NEW HOME. Ill
Dr. Lyon Playfair lunched with us yesterday ; he is
so charminof. To-morrow morninof at five we eo to
Bonn for the day, and shall be there before ten.
The heat is too great to go at any other time. We
start next Tuesday evening, and on Wednesday
shall be on the Ri^i.
This morninof at six o'clock we rode to the exer-
cising — I on a new horse, for two hours and a half
over sand without any shade.
Mary [Duchess of Teck] has been so kind as to
give us a boat, which we expect shortly. It is to be
christened " Mary Adelaide," after her.
July 24th.
Many thanks for your letter, and for the sad ac-
count of Victoria Brant's'"' death. It is quite shock-
ing, and she was my dearest friend of those contem-
poraries, and the one I saw the most of. " In the
midst of life we are in death " ; and the uncertainty
of all earthly things makes life a real earnest, and no
dream. Our whole life should be a preparation and
expectation for eternity. Merry as she was, she was
yet very serious and thoughtful ; but what a loss she
will be to her poor parents and husband!
I have made all arrangements for your comfort
here. I own I do not like your coming here when
we and the whole family are away — it looks so odd!
I forgot to tell you, in answer to your question about
Ella's name, that she of course must be called
" Elizabeth," entre nous only " Ella," for she bears my
dear mama-in-law's name.
RiGi Kaltbad, August ist.
I am enchanted, delighted with this magnificent
* Daughter of M. Van de Weyer, the Belgian Minister Plenipotentiary in
England. She had been thrown out from her carriage, and died from the
effect of the injuries received.
112 PRINCESS ALICE.
scenery. Oh, how you would admire it! When I
am sketching, I keep telling Louis how much more
like you would make the things ; one can always
recognize the places when you draw them.
We left Darmstadt at eight Wednesday morning,
the 26th, slept at Basel that night, and we got there
early enough to see the fine church in a thunder
storm. The next day we only went to Lucerne, as
the weather was not fine enough to ascend the Rigi.
It was a lovely afternoon, and the lake of a marvel-
lous green color. The Pilatus was quite clear for a few
hours. The next morning we two, the children, Mof-
fat, Harriet the nursery-maid, Logoz and wife, Jager,
and Beck, our whole party, started in a very crowded
steamer for Waggis. Splendid weather, though
cloudy. We then, on horses and in chairs carried
by three or six men, made our ascent along a wind-
ing, narrow, steep path, below rocks, past ravines,
where little chalets are situated, and all over the
green pasture cows and goats feeding with bells
round their necks. Westerweller was here when we
arrived ; he acts courier, and when we make long
expeditions remains with the children. This is a
very roomy hotel, crammed full of people, among them
some odd Austrian ladies whom we see below walk-
ing on the terrace — very smart, and smoking. We
two have been on mules with a guide — such a funny
man, who was a soldier at Naples, and was at the
siege of Gaeta — on all the expeditions hereabout.
To-morrow we leave, and go till Monday to
Buochs, on the other side of the lake ; then to En-
gelberg, where Uncle Adalbert and his wife will be.
The children are well ; Victoria very troublesome,
but Ella good and amiable as ever. As I am writing
at the window, the clouds cover the lake and the
IN HER NE W HOME. 1 1 3
lower mountains, and I can only see the quite high
ones with glaciers, which are of such a splendid
shape.
The color of the Scotch mountains is, I think,
finer ; but here they are, first of all, so enormously
high, and then such fine shapes, and the mountains
are studded with trees and rocks down below, and
of a green color.
The air is very light and cold, but the sun intense.
We are going off for the day again on our mules, so
I must close. Of course many funny incidents take
place, which I reserve to tell you when we meet.
I do hope the heat will be over for your journey,
and that it will be fine when you are at our dear
Kranichstein. Marie Grancy will be there to receive
you, and do any thing which is required.
Engelberg, Hotel Titlis, August 8th.
These lines I send by Becker, and hope you will
receive them at Kranichstein. * -J^- * j hope
you found all you wanted in the rooms, and that the
meals were as you like them. I ordered all, and
wrote all down before leaving, as I know what you
like.
We were for some days at Buochs, a very pretty
village ; and we lived in three detachments in differ-
ent common Swiss houses, very comfortable on the
whole, but not smelling very nice, so that I could
scarcely eat while we were there.
Yesterday morning, in a very funny two-seated
carriage with one horse, we left, the children and
servants followinnf in a bicrcrer carriaije. A nearly
four hours' drive through the most beautiful scenery,
up a narrow valley through which the Aa runs,
brought us here. The last two hours are a steep
ascent on the side of a precipice ; beautiful vegeta-
114 PRINCESS ALICE.
tioii through the wood all the way upward ; view on
the high mountains with snow and glaciers close by.
On coming to the top there is a narrow and lovely
green valley studded with peasants' cottages, and in
the centre a Benedictine Abbey, near which our
hotel is situated. The valley is of very green grass ;
the tops of the mountains quite rocky, with snow.
Lower down, and skirting the valley, which is quite
shut in by the hills, fine trees ; several very high
waterfalls, in the style of the Glassalt (near Balmo-
ral), only much higher. This Alpine valley is said
to give the most perfect idea of a Swiss valley up in
the mountains. One can ascend the Titlis ; but it is
said to be dangerous, so we sha'n't attempt it. We
are very careful, and Louis won't undertake any
thing risky. The scenery seen from the carriage
merely is so splendid that one may well be content
with that. Unfortunately, to-day it pours, and it is
very cold. The children are very well. The jour-
ney has really done Victoria good, and she begins
to have an appetite, which with her is a very rare
thing.
The next place we go to is Meyringen. We mean
to ride there over the Joch Pass, but the children
must go back the same way to get round, as there
is no other way out of this valley. We will leave
them then with Westerweller, and go to the Grin-
delwald, Interlaken, etc. ; and then return home by
the 29th probably. The children are living in a
cottaije here also.
Pension
Tracht bei Br)
* * * Our ride from Engelberg over the Joch
Pass to Meyringen was quite beautiful ; but a worse
way than any we have ever been out on in Scotland.
We were eleven hours on the road, and the sun
Belle Vue, )
RiENZ, August 14th. j
IN HER NEW HOME. II5
was very hot, and the walking on these steep
bad paths made one still hotter ; but we enjoyed it
very much, and I never saw any thing" grander or
more maofnihcent. * * ■"" I have made little
scribbles on the way. * * * To-day we two
with two horses were to have walked and ridden to
the Grindelwald, over the Rosenlaui glacier, and to
have gone on the next day to Interlaken, but the
weather is so bad that it is impossible, and, not being
satisfied with the prices, etc., at the hotel of Mey-
ringen, we came on here, an hour's drive, near to the
beautiful falls of the Giessbach, which we saw on Sun-
day. * * * The weather will determine whether
we can make an expediton to-morrow.
We shall be home on Friday by Thun and Basel,
where we sleep. What day are we to be at Coburg,
and for how long exactly ? I believe only two
or three days.
The white heather is from above Eneelbere, near
Brienz.
Pension Belle Vue, August 15th,
I have this instant received your dear letter from
Kranichstein, and, though only just returned from an
expedition to the Rosenlaui glacier, I sit down at
once to thank you with all my heart for such dear
lines. How glad I am all was comfortable, and that
you were pleased with your day in our nice Kranich-
stein ! I am glad you missed us a little. ''' '''' *
But I must tell you of to-day. We drove to Reich-
enbach, close to the falls, took a guide and horses,
and in two hours by a steep stony path got to
Rosenlaui. The view on the Wetterhorn, covered
with snow, and on the Wellborn, which is a rugged
rock on the other side of it, the white sparkling
glacier, is quite beautiful. The shapes and immense
Il6 PRINCESS ALICE.
height of the mountains are so imposing. I look,
admire, wonder ; one can't find words to express
what one feels. How you would admire the scenery !
Papa was so fond of it all.
Kranichstein, August 21st.
These will be my last lines until we meet. We re-
turned here well, having unfortunately, though, much
rain from Interlaken to Basel. At Thun we were in
the same hotel as Blanche and Mademoiselle
Bernard, and to-morrow we expect Uncle Nemours,
Marguerite, and AleuQon, whom we asked to dinner
on their way to Frankfort. I am mostly at the
Rosenhohe with my mama-in-law, as she is quite
alone. I was in town with her, and read to her this
morninof ; she is ever so dear and kind. I do love
her so much. Ever since Ella's birth we have been
drawn so closely to each other, and I admire her
also now that I know and understand her. There is
so much beneath, so much Gemiith., tenderness, and
delicacy of feeling. It is indeed a blessing to have
such people as they are for parents-in-law.
September ist.
Uncle George was here yesterday. Vicky remains
with us till the 5th, and gives me so much pleasure
to be able to repay her for her hospitality this
winter.
We were at the christenmg of Becker's baby,
which went off so well. In the morning we had
to go through High Mass for the inauguration of the
Grand Duchess' monument in the Catholic church.
Poor papa-in-law, who went to bathe for his head-
ache, has had such a return of his cough that he is
coming back here on Monday. I hope they will go
to Switzerland later.
IN HER NE IV HOME. 1 1 /
Kranichstein, September Sth.
* * * AftSr having missed the train they in-
tended to come by, Bertie and Alix arrived at three
o'clock. They dined with us. Louis then took him
to the theatre, and I drove her about.
My poor father-in-law's throat is very bad, and
gives him much pain. I am really very anxious
about him.
We leave to-morrow afternoon at four, and shall
spend the following day at Ostend, embarking in the
evening. Till the end of the week we intend stop-
ping in town, and if Bertie and Alix remain longer,
we shall leave by the limited mail (for Balmoral).
Inverness, October Sth.
This is a very fine town, and the country is very
beautiful. We took a walk this morning, and shall
drive this afternoon. It was thoucfht better not to
go to a kirk, as the people seemed to look out for us.
Ao;-ain a thousand thanks for havinof arranoed this
nice journey for us, which we enjoy so much. I
thought so much of you and dear Papa yesterday
during our ride."^"
Sandringkam, November i6th.
* * * I am pleased that the children are well
under your roof. I know they have all they can
want. Bertie had such bad toothache yesterday ;
Louis also a little ; the cold air must be the cause,
for it is so sharp here.
Alix and I practice together for an hour of an
evening. ''' * '"' Alix drove me down to the sea
the other day, and a most alarming drive it was, for
the horses pulled, and to our astonishment the
coachman suddenly alighted between us, with his
* See " Leaves from a Journal," Gran town, i36o.
I 1 8 PRINCESS ALICE.
feet in the air, from the back seat, and caught hold
of the reins — it was too funny. I hope to be near
you again on Saturday.
CoBLENZ, November 25th.
* ^^ * Having just a quarter of an hour to
myself before leaving this, I hasten to write to you a
few lines to tell you that we have travelled quite
well so far. May will have told you about our pas-
sage. I have been sick ever since, which is dread-
ful. Henry and William joined us at Bonn, and
came here with us.
The Queen was most kind. We spent the even-
ing most pleasantly en famille with her, and whilst
we dined alone together she had to go to a town
ball.
Darmstadt, November 28th.
* " '-' I find my father-in-law looking better,
I am happy to say, though far from strong ; and
alas ! one of his lungs is affected. Though, with
care, one can guard him from evil consequences,
still of course, it is an anxious thing. All the family
are very grateful for your kind messages, and send
their respects to you.
* " ^ The children are very well, and Vic-
toria said to my mother, " Meine Grossmama, die
Koniginn, has got a little vatch with a birdie," and
she is always speaking of all at Windsor, but
principally of the things in your room. I am so
glad that you are pleased with the children's picture.
I admire it so much.
It is warm and damp here. * * * j have a
great deal to do. "" ^' *
We have been over the new house yesterday, and
alas ! found many things not quite what they were
intended to be. * * *
IN HER NE W HOME. 1 1 9
Darmstadt, December 5th.
Many thanks for your letter received yesterday,
•with tlije. account of Lenchen's Verlobiing [betrothal].
I am so glad she is happy, and I hope every bless-
ing will rest on them both that one can possibly
desire.
I had a letter from Marie Brabant tvvo days ago,
where she says dear Uncle's [King Leopold's] state
is hopeless ; but yesterday she telegraphed that he
was rather better. What a loss it would be if he
were to be taken from us, for his very name and ex-
istence, though he takes no active part in politics,
are of weight and value.
Yesterday I was painting in oils, and I copied my
sketch of the Sluggan, and, if it be in any way at all
presentable and fit to give, I will send it to you. I
hope it won't be very Chinese, for our sketches had
a certain likeness to works of art of that country.
Louis is very busy here. He has bec^un his military
duties ; he has the command and V^crwalbing [ad-
ministration] of the Cavalry Brigade. To-day he
has to 2:0 to the Chamber, and he is cfoinsf to attend
the different offices — home department, finances,
justice, etc., — so as to get a knowledge of the routine
of business. * ''' * Louis of Portucfal and
family passed through here yesterday, and went to
Frankfort. I have inquired if they are there still,
and it they are we shall try to see them. I am so
curious to see Marie Pia. '•' '=' '^
All our Hofstaat [Court circle] lay their good
wishes for Lenchen's engagement at your feet.
Darmstadt, December 8th.
We are so grieved and distressed at dear Uncle
Leopold's alarming state, and have given up all hope,
the accounts are so bad. Oh, were there but a chance
I20 FJiliVCESS ALICE.
for you, or for any of us who love him so dearly, to
be near him durinof his last hours !
December nth.
Many thanks for your letter. Alas, alas ! beloved
Uncle Leopold is no more ! How much for you,
for us, for all, goes with him to the grave ! One tie
more of those dear old times is rent !
I do feel for you so much, for dear Uncle was in-
deed a father to you. Now you are head of all the
family — it seems incredible, and that dear Papa
should not be by your side.
The regret for dear Uncle Leopold is universal —
he stood so high in the eyes of all parties ; his life
was a history in itself — and now that book is closed.
Oh, it is so sad, and he is such a loss ! I am almost
glad this sorrow has fallen into those days already so
hallowed by melancholy and precious recollections.
How I recollect every hour, every minute of those
days. In thinking of them one feels over again the
hope, the anxiety, and lastly the despair and grief of
that irretrievable loss. The Almighty stood by you
and us, and enabled us to bear it, for I always wonder
that we lived through that awful time.
The future world seems so like a real home, for
there are so many dear ones to meet again. There
is something peculiarly sad in the death of the last
one of a large family — to feel that none is left to tell
of each other, and of their earlier life, Vv^hich the
younger ones could know only through their Hps.
December i5tb.
Many thanks for your letter. I was so anxious to
hear something of our beloved Uncle's end ; it
seems to have been most peaceful.
There will be many Princes at Brussels, I believe.
IN HER NEW HOME. 121
How much I thought of you and of dear Papa on
the 14th! Dear*-Louis leaves me this afternoon.
He will reach Brussels at five to-morrow mornino^,
and remain over the Sunday.
The accession of the new Kinof and the honors
that have at once to be paid are so painful, following-
so closely on the death ot one we have loved and
known in that position. As the French say : " Le
Roi est mo7^i. Vive le Rot ! "
December 20th.
* * * I was sitting- up for Louis till half-past
eleven with Countess Bliicher — who leaves to-day,
and has spent a few days with me — when he, and to
my astonishment Bertie also, came into the room.
The next day, alas ! he had to leave again at four ;
but still, short as his stay was, it was a token of his
constant love for me, and it touched me very much,
for I ever loved him so dearly.
Every thing went off well at Brussels as you will
have heard. The more I realize that we shall never
see beloved Uncle Leopold again, the sadder I grow.
He had, apart from all his excellent qualities, such a
charm as I believe we shall seldom find again.
The dear Countess is weli. We made the dining-
room into a bedroom for h-^r, and we dined down-
stairs. I was so afraid of her getting cold, if she
lived out of the house.
Darmstadt, December 241I1.
* * * How I wish beloved Uncle were brought
to Windsor to rest there as he had wished ! I won-
dered so much that every thing had taken place at
Laeken, knowing that dear Uncle had wished it
otherwise.
Uncle Louis wishes me to thank you once more
\
122 PRINCESS ALICE.
for the Christmas eatables, and my mother-in-law
likewise for the lovely little frame and photograph.
They are both much touched by this kind attention
on your part.
Christmas Day.
-» * * To me Christmas is always sad now,
and for Louis and his family it was so likewise this
year ; my parents-in-law felt it very much. We
went to the Military Church at eight this morning.
It is the service we like best ; but it was bitterly
cold, every thing snow white.
I hope my little picture, though very imperfect,
found favor in your eyes. It gave me such pleasure
doing it for you, thinking of you and our expedition
the whole time I was doing it.
December 30th.
This is my last letter this year. In many ways a
happy one has it been, though it has deprived us of
many dear and near ones. Each year brings us
nearer to the Wicdcrsehcii [reunion with the dead],
though it is sad to think how one's glass is running
out, and how little good goes with it compared to
the numberless blessings we receive. Time goes in-
credibly fast.
Every earnest and tender wish from us both is
yours, dear Mama, for this coming year with its ex-
pected events. May God's blessing rest on this new
union which is to be formed in our family, and may
dear Lenchen be as happy as all those who loved
her can wish ! I am sorry to think that I shall
propably not see her again until she is married ; but
I am glad for her sake that the Brautstajid [the be-
trothal period] is not/to be long.
I send you a locket with Ella's miniature, which I
hope will please you',
AT HOME AND AT WORK.
1S66-1872.
" Life is meant for work, and not for pleasure." {August 29, 1S66.)
1866.
THIS year, which brought such important chang-es
to the political life of Germany, was also in
many ways full of sorrow and trouble to the Princess,
and the hard and painful struggle through which
Germany passed affected her very nearly.
During the early part of the year, the new palace
was completed, and in it the Princess had the satis-
faction of seeing her wishes realized, and of feeling
both comfortable and " at home." She was also
able during this new year to extend the field of her
practical usefulness.
Princess Alice attended some very interesting
lectures on the necessity of providing special asylums
for poor idiots, delivered by a very clever and enter-
prising " orthodox " clergyman from the Odenwald.
She took up the idea most warmly, and determined
to found such an institution herself, but in doing this
found herself face to face with very serious difficul-
ties. The lecturer and those who sided with him
123
124 FI^IMCESS ALICE.
wished that any institution of this kind should bear
a strictly religious stamp. The Princess did not agree
in this view. She wished to separate the religious
from the practical part of the work. She wished
people to feel, that they were bound to help to
alleviate sickness and suffering (in whatever form)
out of mere love to their fellow-creatures, and
not only as the fulfilment of a religious duty. While
the Princess always acknowledged the value of re-
ligious motives in carrying out works of charity, she
felt strongly, in this particular case, that the treat-
ment of idiots should be left to the medical pro-
fession, without any foreign interference.
A committee was formed of persons who shared
the Princess' views, and who were commissioned by
her to take the necessary steps for carrying out her
plans. By far the most difficult part of the work fell
to her own share — namely, that of finding the neces-
sary funds. To obtain these she organized a Bazaar
in her new palace. This was a totally novel pro-
ceeding in Germany, and well calculated to attract a
large number of visitors. The Bazaar was opened
on the 6th of April, and lasted four days. The
Princess and Prince Louis and her brother, Prince
Alfred, took an active part in it. The result sur-
passed utmost expectations, a success mainly due to
her own personal efforts, and to the charm which she
exercised over all. At the close of the Bazaar she
was not only able to announce that she had realized
the sum of 1 6,000 florins, but that she had also gained
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 25
the conviction that the whole country supported her
in her undertaking.
In spite of the success of this Bazaar, the Princess
was in later years opposed to a repetition of such
an expedient, as she felt — what many do — that people
often come on such occasions for their own personal
amusement rather than to aid the charity.
The war of 1866, which was the consequence of
the unfortunate conflict about the Duchies of Schles-
wig-Holstein, was viewed by the Princess with feel-
ings in which personal interests and attachments
conflicted with political convictions. She was so
truly German that she felt most keenly the struggle
between Germans and Germans, or as she herself
says in one of her letters, " brother against brother."
At times she could not help being downcast, be-
cause she saw how much her husband and her hus-
band's country suffered from it, and because she
foresaw how disastrous to South Germany the results
of such a war must be. Prince Louis himself was
soon obliged to assume his command in the field.
The Princess gave birth to a third daughter on the
I ith of July, during the most anxious days of that
trying time. Prince Louis had happened to be home
on leave for a few days when the event took place ;
but he was obliged to leave the Princess on the 14th
of July, and to go at once into action at Aschaffen-
burg. As the South-German troops had to retreat,
all communication with his home for some time was
cut off.
126 PRINCESS ALICE.
On the 31st of July the Prussians under General
von Goben entered Darmstadt. Prince Louis' pa-
rents, who were the only relations remaining in
Darmstadt, were daily with the Princess. On the
8th of August, whilst on her way home from visiting
her parents-in-law, the Princess unexpectedly met
the Prince in the street. He had obtained leave of
absence during a short armistice. The joy of this
meeting can easily be pictured! The Prince and
Princess together visited the wounded ; and on the
loth of August the Prince was appointed by the
Grand Duke to the command of the Hessian divi-
sion then in the field. By the Grand Duke's wish
the Prince went for two days to Berlin, and then
joined the troops in Rhenish Hesse. He took up
his quarters in the " Gclbe Hatis" at Nierstein-Op-
penheim, and the Princess courageously shared them
with him — in spite of the cholera then raging there.
On the 1 2th of September — Prince Louis' birthday
— the litde Princess was christened at Darmstadt by
the military chaplain ; she received the names Irene
(Peace) Louise Marie Anna. The same day peace
was ratified at Berlin — that peace for which the brave
mother of the child had so ardendy longed.
The Cavalry Brigade which the Prince had com-
manded stood sponsor to the child.
It was only on the 20th of September that the
Prince and Princess with the Hessian division made
their public entry into Darmstadt.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 12/
» January 2d.
I am at the head of a committee of ladies out of
the different classes of society to make a large ba-
zaar, in which all the country is to take part, for the
Idiot Asylum. It is very difficult — all the more as I
have never had any thing to do with such things in
my life. * * * j ^y^nted for the first public
thing I undertake, to take in all principles, and my
mother-in-law has given her name to it. I have
chosen the committee out of different sets — half
adelig [people of rank] half biirgerUdi [of the citi-
zen class], and all these ladies, half of whom I did
not know before, come and sit in my small room and
discuss — and, as yet, do not disagree.
January 6ih.
* * * The people here are so much pleased
that my Louis takes such active part in all his duties —
military and civil, for he attends the different offices,
and as General, I hear, he keeps great order where
there was until now disorder and great abuse of
power. Of course, I see him much less, and some
days scarcely at all.
On the 14th we go to Gotha for about a fortnight,
without the children.
Gotha, January 19th.
Dear Uncle and Aunt are well, and we are very
happy here, for they are always kindness itself to us.
Uncle looks very well, but he grows very stout,
I think. We saw the Brant von Messina [Schiller's]
so well given two nights ago. I thought so much of
dear Papa, who admired it greatly ; and Uncle
Er *^old me he had it given for you, when you
firsi „ame here.
Gotha, January 22d,
* * * Two nights ago Uncle, Louis, and I,
128 PRIA'CESS ALICE.
with a very clever old actress, read a piece together.
Louis resisted at first, but it went very well. You
can't imatrine how mild it is. 1 have the windows
always open. Gustav Freitag is here. I am always
glad to see him. He is a good friend to Uncle, and
he is so honest and straightforward.
GoTHA, January 26th,
I shall be very sorry to go away from here— the
whole atmosphere does one good. Dear Uncle is so
amusing ; he speaks of interesting things, and has
interesting people.
Our Quaker acquaintances have sent me a great
deal for the bazaar, and an old gentleman who heard
of it, ico/. ! I could not believe my eyes. They are
always so generous : and, hearing of my undertak-
ing a work of this sort, they sent me this spon-
taneously. Is it not kind ?
Darmstadt, February ist.
It is spring weather here altogether — quite warm
when one comes out of the house. It is so un-
natural. The children enjoy it, and are out a great
deal, looking so well and strong : I wish you
could see them. The little one is growing up to her
sister very fast, and actually wears the frocks Vic-
toria wore last year. I wish you could hear all the
extraordinary things Victoria says. Ella is civil to all
strangers — excepting to my mother-in-law, or to old
ladies. It is too tiresome. There is a laro-e ball
given by the officers at their Casino to-night, to
which we must go. It will be crowded and hot.
Our house gets on tolerably. The housek" --^sr,
a Berlinerinn, comes on the 20th, and we ai\v|'.old
that we can go into the house next month. I can't
help doubting it, and I regret leaving this nice little
AT HOME AND AT IVORK. 1 29
house, where our first happy years have been spent.
I am so glad that you have at least been in the new
house, so that I can always think that you are no
stranger to it, which makes me like it much better.
February loth.
* * * I am happy to think you are quiet
at Osborne after all you had to go through. The
emotion and all other feelings recalled by such an
event must have been very powerful and have tried
you much.* It was noble of you, my darling Mama,
and the great effort will bring compensation. Think
of the pride and pleasure it would have given darling
Papa — the brave example to others not to shrink
from their duty ; and it has shown that you felt the
intense sympathy v/hich the English people evinced,
and still evince, in your great misfortune.
How to-day recalls those bright and happy former
years ! There is no cloud without a silver lining,
and the linincr to the black cloud which overshadows
your existence is the bright recollection of the past
blending into the bright hope of a happy future ; a
small part of it also is the intense love of your chil-
dren and nation, which casts a light around you
which many live to enjoy and admire, and which few
— if any — possess like you. I wish I could have
sent a fine nosegay of orange blossoms for to-day,
but they could not have arrived fresh so I gave it
up.
Louis sends his tenderest love, and wishes me to
say how much his thoughts with mine are to-day
constantly with you. He is very industrious, and
has a great deal to do now, and, I hear, does all very
well.
* The opening of Parliament by the Queen for the first time after the
death of the Prince Consort.
130 PRINCESS ALICE.
Darmstadt, February istli.
How dear of you to have written to me on the
loth — a day of such recollections ! That last
happy wedding-day at Buckingham Palace, how well
I remember it, and all the previous ones at Windsor,
when we all stood before your door, waiting for you
and dear Papa to come out. You both looked so
young, bright, and handsome. As I grew older, it
made me so proud to have two such dear parents !
And that my children should never know you both
toofether — that will remain a sorrow to me as lonsf
as I live.
Darmstadt, March loth.
* * * Your idea of Friedrichroda for us was
so good, but alas ! now even that will be impracti-
cable, on account of money. Louis has had to take
up money again at Coutt's to pay for the house, and
the house is surety.
We must live so economically — not going any-
where, or seeing many people, so as to be able to
spare as much a year as we can. England cost us
a great deal, as the visit was short last time. We
have sold four carriage horses, and have only six to
drive with now, two of which the ladies constantly
want for theatre, visits, etc. ; so we are rather badly
off in some things. But I should not bore you with
our troubles, which are easy to bear.
March i6th.
How trying the visit to Aldershot must have been,
but it is so wise and kind of you to go. I cannot
think of it without tears in my eyes. Formerly that
was one of the greatest pleasures of my girlhood,
and you and darling Papa looked so handsome to-
gether. I so enjoyed following you on those occa-
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 13I
sions. Such moments I should Hke to call back for
an instant. "
Our house here is quite empty, and the demenage-
ment creates such work. To-morrow night we sleep
for the first time in the new house.
March lyth.
I write from our dear little old house. May dear
Papa's and your blessing rest on our new home, as
I am sure it will ! It is full of souvenirs of you both
— all your pictures, photographs of dear brothers
and sisters and home. It reminds me a little of
Osborne, of Buckingham Palace, a little even of
Balmoral. Could I but show it to darling Papa! If
I have any taste, I owe it all to him, and I learned
so much by seeing him arrange pictures, rooms,
etc.
At half-past seven we go into our house to-night.
Bender is to say a prayer and pronounce a blessing,
when we with all our household are assembled in
hall ; only Louis' parents and William besides our-
selves. Yours and dear Papa's I pray to rest on
us.
March 20th.
That [the death of the Duchess of Kent] was
the commencement of all the cfrief ; but with dar-
ling Papa, so full of tenderness, sympathy and deli-
cate feeling for you, how comparatively easy to bear,
compared to all that followed !
* * ''' We are very comfortably established
here, and I can't fancy that I am in Germany, the
house and all its arrangements being so English.
When can we hope once to have you here ? Of
course that is the summit of our wishes. Your
rooms are on the east side and very cool — as you
always go abroad when it is hot, and suffer so much
132 PHINCESS ALICE.
from the heat. I shall die of it this year, as my
rooms are to the west.
March 24th,
* * * Our grand-uncle of Homburg has
just died, so that Homburg falls to Uncle Louis now.
But all the thinos of the Lando-ravine Elizabeth q-q to
Princess Reuss, and her [Aunt Elizabeth's *] rooms
are full of beautiful miniatures, oil-paintings, and
ornaments eii masse, like Gloucester House.
I shall be so glad to see dear Affie. His rooms
are to be ready by this evening. The house is very
comfortable, but the weather is awful — wind, rain,
and sleet. In spite of it the house is so cheerful.
How sorry I am for you that dear Auntf is gone.
As she was so well this time, it will be a reason
more for her returning soon to you.
Dear Lady Frances Baillie was with me on Thurs-
day, so dear and charming.
April 2d.
* * * We are livinsf in such a state of anxi-
ety and alarm. War J would be too fearful a thing to
contemplate — brother against brother, friend against
friend, as it will be in this case ! May the Almighty
avert so fearful a calamity ! Here, at Mayence and
Frankfort, it will begin, if any thing happens, as
there are mixed garrisons ; and we must side with
one against the other. For Henry, who is still here,
it is dreadful. He can't desert at such a moment,
and yet if he should have to draw his sword against
his country, his brothers fighting on the other side !
Fancy the complications and horrors of such a war 1
* Princess Elizabeth of Great Britain and Ireland, Princess Alice's grand-
aunt.
f Princess Hohenlohe.
X War between Prussia and Austria was now imminent.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 33
For Vicky and Fritz it is really dreadful ; please
let me hear by 'messenger what you hear from them.
I am .sure you think of us in these troubled times.
What would dear Papa have said to all this ? I long
to hear from you, to know that your warm heart is
acting for Germany.
March 26th.
* * * The dear old Queen Marie Amelie * is
gone to her rest at last, after a long and so stormy a
life ! Claremont is now also altered. How sad
those constant chang-es are ! It reminds one a^ain
and again that we are on a journey, and that the
real JiOTne is elsewhere. All those who work hard
and love their fellow-creatures meet again, and the
thorny path will be forgotten which leads to the
happy meeting. I sincerely mourn for the dear
Queen, and she was so kind to me always. I am
glad she was one of Victoria's god-mothers.
April 7th.
* * * Our Bazaar goes off wonderfully : 7,000
florins the first day, and to-day again a great deal.
Affie was invaluable in arrano-ino^, sellinfr, and assist-
ing in every way. There have been crowds these
two days, as in England : something quite unusual
for the quiet inhabitants of this place. They have
shown so much zeal and devotion that I am quite
touched by it, as I am more or less a stranger to
them.
April 25th.
Thousand thanks for your dear lines, and for the
money and charming bas-relief of you, which I think
very good. I thought so much of former birthdays
at home in Buckingham Palace. They were so
* Widow of King Louis Philippe.
134 PRINCESS ALICE.
happy. We did nothing- in particular ; merely dined
at Kranichstein with Uncle Louis in the afternoon.
It was warm and fine.
The money will go at once to Louis' man of busi-
ness toward paying off the furniture, and is, indeed,
very, very acceptable, more so under present cir-
cumstances than any thing else you could give us ;
and that part of the furniture will then all be your
present.
May 3d.
* * '^ The prospect of war seems to be near-
ing realization. It wnW be so dreadful if it does.
God be with us, if such a misfortune befall poor
Germany ! These prospects have already done
much harm to trade. The large manufacturies send
away their superfluous workmen, and they sell next
to nothing. Most unpopular amongst high and low,
and amongst people of all opinions, this civil war
will be. * * *
I have made all the summer out- walking dresses,
seven in number, with paletots for the girls — not
embroidered, but entirely made from beginning to
end ; likewise the new necessary flannel shawls for
the expected. I manage all the nursery accounts,
and every thing myself, which gives me plenty to
do, as every thing increases, and, on account of the
house, we must live very economically for these next
years.
It is so kind of you to give Dr. Priestley his fee,
otherwise I would have had scruples in giving so
large a sum for my own comfort.
If there is a war then, and Louis is away, what
shall I do ? This is my constant dread and appre-
hension. As long as he comes home safe again —
that is all I shall think of. Please God to spare me
AT HOME AND AT WORK. . 135
that fearful an^fiety, which weighs on me now al-
ready ; for he, Raving only a brigade, could not keep
out of danger, like Fritz in Schleswig.
I put my trust wholly in the Almighty, who has
watched over and blessed our life so richly thus far
— so iuucIl, much more than I ever deserved, or can
deserve ; and He will not forsake us in the hour of
need, I am sure.
These dangerous times make one very serious
and anxious ; the comfort of faith and trust in God,
who does all well and for the best, is the only sup-
port. Life is but a pilgrimage — a little more or a
little less sorrow falls to one's lot ; but the anticipa-
tion of evil is almost as great a suffering as the evil
itself, and mine always was an anxious nature, so I
cannot banish the thoughts which all the dreadful
chances of war force upon one.
May 7th.
* * * I am so sorry for poor Louise and Bea-
trice, and whooping-cough is a nasty thing, though
I wish we could complain of that as our sufferings
here. Anxiety, worry without end !
Uncle Alexander returned from Vienna two days
ago. The Emperor, Uncle Alexander Mensdorff,
all frantic at being forced into war, but fearing now
no more being able to prevent it. Cannot the other
three Powers interfere and step between at this dan-
gerous crisis — proposing a Congress, or any thing,
so as to avert this calamity ?
Henry, who was here on six weeks' leave, as he
and Uncle Louis were to have gone to Russia (which
now, of course, they won't do), had suddenly to re-
turn to Bonn, as his regiment is made viobil. Uncle
Alexander receives the command of the 8th Armee-
corps, which I suppose and hope will be stationed
136 PRINCESS ALICE.
somewhere near here, as Louis is in that, and is to
go. He means to gO to BerHn this afternoon for a
day to see Fritz, and tell him how circumstances now
force him to draw his sword against the Prussians in
the service of his own country. The whole thing is
dreadful, and the prospect of being left alone here at
such a moment (for all our people, nearly, will accom-
pany Louis) is dreadful ! If I were only over my
troubles I should not be so anxious, so nervous and
unhappy, as I must say the anticipation of all these
dreadful things makes me. Could I follow in the
distance ! But now that is impossible, and I have
not a single older married person near me. When
dear Louis goes, of course Westerweller oroes too.
I still pray and hope that there be no war ; even if
all the troops are assembled, I hope that the other
Powers will interfere, and not look on whilst these
brothers cut each others throats. It is such an un-
natural, monstrous war !
The death of Lord and Lady Rivers is dreadful
for their children, but how blessed for themselves!
I hope Lady Caroline [Barrington] will pass by here,
which will be a great pleasure to me, though she says
she can but stop two days, as you wish her to be
home by the i5th.
May iSth,
* * * How orlad I am to hear that Lord
Clarendon is still hopeful ! Here as yet, though
there is no distinct reason for it, save the repug-
nance of all to this civil war, all still hope to avoid
the war. Every day we have occasion to hear how
the Prussians detest this war — army and all — and
there are constant rows, wath the Landwehr in par-
ticular. Men of forty, who have families and homes
to look after, are taken away with their sons ; and
AT HOME AXD AT WORK. 1 37
those who have horses are also taken, with their
horses : so that»the wife and children sit at home,
unable to do any thing for their land. It is ruining
numbers, and murmurs get louder and louder. A
revolution must break out if this continues. "'" * *
I do pray most fervently that the King will listen to
the just advice, in no way derogatory to his dignity,
of placing the hated question of the Duchies before
the Confederation ; but I fear he won't. If he would
only listen to that advice and disarm, all Germany
would do it at once — only too gladly — forgetting all
the losses in the happiness of peace restored. For-
give my stupid letter, but we live really so in the
midst of these affairs, on which our existence will
turn, that I can think of nothing else.
Austria can't hold out much longer, and the
country is getting very violent against the King and
Bismarck. The Emperor is less able to concede and
keep peace.
Now good-bye, dearest Mama. We are so grate-
ful to you for taking the children, if any thing comes
to pass.
May 2 2d.
:i: % -K- Any thlug you hear of Vicky and Fritz,
will you write it to me } "" * '•' The cloud
grows blacker every day, and the anxiety we all
live in is very great. But I ought not to write to
you to-day of such gloomy things, which, thank
God, you only see and hear of from the other side of
the water.
May 25th.
* ::: ^\\Q, Duke aud Duchess of Nassau were
here yesterday. They, like me, are in such an un-
pleasant position, should it come to blows, which I
still hope may be averted — for why should we harm-
less mortals be attacked ?
138 PHINCESS ALICE.
:•: H: -x- \Yg sliall be beggars very soon, if all
goes on as it promises to do ; it is quite dre;iaclful,
and the want of other people (and dissatisfaction)
increases. "^^ * '•' I have ordered a good trawel-
ling-bag for Louis, for much the same reason that
some people take out an umbrella in fine weather to
keep off the rain, and this is to be against a war.
* * * I have a sort of Ahmmg [presentiment
that it won't come to the worst — for us at least — anc.
here we shall keep so quiet, only on the defensive,
if attacked.
May sSth.
% * * There seems a little chance of the
dreadful prospects being bettered. How I do pray
it may be the commencement of a better time ; and
that, if peace be established, it may be so firmly, so
that one may not live in the daily dread of new
quarrels re-opening between the two countries.
H: ::: -K-
The man who built our house has nearly been
made bankrupt, and wants money from us to save
him from ruin, and we can scarcely manage it. The
ruin this preparation for war, and consequent cessa-
tion of all speculations, buildings, or trade, has
brought on people is dreadful, and of course in-
creases. * * *
June 8th.
* * * How precious are your words of love
and sympathy and the hope you still hold to, that war
may somehow be averted ! It does me good to hear
it ; and I know how much, and how lovingly, your
thoughts dwell with dear Vicky and with me during
this time of trial. * * *
June 13th.
* * * I fear if the Bund orders the mobiliza-
AT HOME AND AT WORK. I39
tion, and goes against Prussia, our troops will be
the first to go, and then Louis may get orders to be
off any day. It is too dreadful ! 1 live in such dread
that he may have to go just before, or at the very
moment of my confinement. ''^ ^ *
I hope Scotland will do you good. Please God,
when you return matters may be better. If Austria
and Prussia would only fight out their quarrel
together ; but the latter has taken refuge with the
Bund now, because she wanted it.
Darmstadt, June 15th.
* * * The serious illness of poor little Sigis-
mund ^ in the midst of all these troubles is really
dreadful for poor Vicky and Fritz, and they are so
fond of that merry little child.
We have just received the news that the Prussians
have crossed our frontier and established themselves
at Giessen. The excitement here is dreadful and it
is very difficult to keep people back from doing
stupid things — wanting to attack, and so on, which
with our force alone would be madness.
Louis — as always — remains quiet ; but we live in
a perpetual fever, alarms being sent, being gehdzt
[stirred up] from Vienna, as they want the Bund to
go with them at once. It is a dreadful time. I an-
ticipate it will be the close of the existence of the
little countries. God stand by us ! Without the
civil list Uncle Louis and the family are beggars, as
all the private property belongs to the country.
It is so kind of dear Lady Ely to offer to come. I
shall be very glad of it, for from one day to another I
don't know what Louis' duties may be ; and, when I
am laid up, it is so pleasant to have some one who
can write to you.
* Son of the Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia. See ««/■<?, p. 93.
I40 PRINCESS ALICE.
June i8th.
These lines I send by our children, whom you will
so kindly take charge of — alas, that the times should
be such as to make this necessary ! In your dear
hands they will be so safe ; and if we can give you
a little pleasure in sending them, it would be a real
consolation in parting from them, which we both
feel very much.
The state of excitement here is beyond descrip-
tion. Troops arriving, being billeted about — all will
be concentrated from here to Frankfort. Two days
ago the Bund telegraphed for Uncle Alexander to
come, as the Prussians were advancing ; we, of
course, were all unprepared, and the confusion and
fright were dreadful ; but, thank God, they retreated
again, when they got wind that troops were assem-
bling.
June 24th.
* :i: * T\\Q. State of affairs is awful ; perpetual
frights and false news arrive. The Prussians are
coming from Wetzlar or Bingen ; all the bustle and
alarm for necessary defence ; it is really dreadful.
Louis' chief has his staff at Frankfort. Louis' cav-
alry brigade is there likewise, so he has his adjutant,
etc., there, and does his work early in the morning
at Frankfort, returning here in the afternoon, which
has been kindly allowed on account of me. I remain
here, of course, as near dear Louis as I can ; and
now that the children are gone, I have only myself to
look after. ''" * * I have not the least fear, but
my anxiety about Louis will be very great, as you
can imagine. ''' ''' * Collections are already
being made for the hospitals in the field, and the
necessary things to be got for the soldiers. Illness
and wounds will be dreadful in this heat. Coarse
AT HOME AND AT WORK. I4I
linen and rags are the things of which one can't have
enough, and I am working, collecting shirts, sheets,
etc. ; and now I come to ask, if you could send me
some old linen for rags. In your numerous house-
holds it is collected twice a year, and sent to
hospitals. Could I beg for some this time ? It
would be such a blessing for the poor Germans ; and
here they are not so rich, and that is a thing of
w^hich in every war there has been too little. Lint
I have ordered from England by wish of the doctors ;
and bandages also they wished for. If you could,
through Dr. Jenner, procure me some of these
things, I should be so grateful. ^' * * Four
dozen shirts we are making in the house. Every
contribution of linen or of patterns of good cush-
ions, or any good bed which in the English hospitals
has been found useful, we should be delighted to
have. * * * For the moment the people beg
most for rags ; our house being new, we have
none. I am tolerably well, and cannot be too thank-
ful for good nerves. Louis is very low at times,
nervous at leaving me ; and for him I keep up,
thoueh at times not without a strufrele. May the
Almighty w^atch over us, and not separate us, is my
hourly prayer !
In your hands we feel the children so safe, though
we miss them much. It is so kind of you to have
taken them, and they are strong and healthy. "' '•' *
June 25th.
Two words by Lady Ely's courier. I am so glad
she is here. She performed the journey in a day
and night without difficulty ; and Christa, who
merely came from Cassel, took three days coming
by road.
Alas ! to-morrow Louis' division moves on into
142 PRINCESS ALICE.
the country to make room for other troops, and he
must go. It will be too far for him to return — save
with special permission for a few hours — so we shall
have to part. My courage is beginning to fail me,
but I bear up as best I can. God knows what a
bitter trial it is ! He is just in front, so the first ex-
posed. William is to go in Uncle Alex.'s staff, and
my poor mama-in-law is beginning to break down
now. We try to cheer each other. The whole
thing is so hard : against her countrymen — there
where Louis has served. The whole thing is so
contrecoeur, and the Prussian soldiers dislike it as
much as we do.
I am going to Frankfort with ever so many poor
wives to take leave of their husbands, who march to-
day.
The heat is awful. I have no time to think of
myself, or I daresay I should have heat, etc., to com-
plain of. Being still off and on with Louis, and hav-
ing things to do, keeps me up ; but when he is gone,
and I have no man here to reassure me, it will
be dreadful.
I must close. * * * Letters from home now
are such a pleasure ; do let any one write to me
sometimes to give me news of you all. Your own
child, Alice.
Darmstadt, July ist.
■K- •;<- :■: -pi^g parting mnv was so hard ! and he
feels it so dreadfully. I can scarcely manage to
write. The heat, besides, is overpowering. Our
dear wedding-day four years ago ! Four years of
undisturbed, real, and increasing happiness. How I
thank and bless the Almighty for them, and how
fervently I pray that we may live over this most bit-
ter trial !
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 43
■^ * * Whether Henry is engaged or not we
don't know, and-can get no news of him. At any
rate he is cut off from news of us and the rest of
Germany ; and, as our army is moving, and he is on
the extreme wing, at any moment he may find him-
self opposite to his own brothers and countrymen. It
is most painful, and has been to my poor father-in-
law a great shock, as we all hoped he had got away.
Please let my brothers know this. They will feel for
this unheard-of position for three brothers to be
• a. a. Ai
m.
Dear Lady Ely is a comfort and support to me, and
it was quite a relief to Louis to leave her with me.
We are both so grateful that she came. Christa is
quite out of sorts about her country, and sees every
thing black. Marie is low about her brother ; and
we are so in the middle of it all, that an English per-
son who has no one concerned in it all is really a
relief.
I am so glad that you are pleased with the little
ones. You be sure, I know, not to let them get in
the way of infection, if there is still any.
July 3d.
* " * Poor Vicky ! She bears her trial [the
death of her son. Prince Sigismund] bravely, and it
is a heavy one indeed. This dreadful war is enough
to break one's heart. Those lives sacrificed for
nothino- — and what will be the end of it all ? All our
troops are gone now, too, and, what is so unpleasant,
of course we here don't know where they go to —
where they are. Letters are fetched by the Feld-
post, and as they are chiefly not near the railroads —
at least not Louis — we cannot telegraph. At such a
moment I know dear Louis fidgets dreadfully for
news, and I not less. Since he has gone I have
heard nothine-
144 PRINCESS ALICE.
At length letters from Henry have come. He
never received until the 29th the telegram his
parents begged the King to send him on the i8th,
for the King said he did not know where he was —
thouQ-ht he was in Russia! He has been in all the
engagements, wondering why, as was originally
arranged, no order came for him to leave.
I am so very uncomfortable, and it wants courage
and patience and hope, under such circumstances, to
bear all. Of course, anxiety about beloved Louis is
the chief thiner. and lontjino- for news. The Prus-
sians are collecting a large army near ThiJringen, in
which direction ours are marching. Probably Uncle
Ernest against ours! He mioht so well have re-
mained quiet, and sent his troops to Mayence, as
was settled.
For dear Lenchen's wedding-day receive every
warm and affectionate wish. May God's blessing
rest on their union ! I am so glad you are pleased
with the dear children. I have already found that
likeness in Ella to Affie's picture by Thorburn, but
she is so like dear Louis.
July 6th.
* * * There seems a chance of an armistice.
I trust it is so, and that peace will ensue. The
enormous bloodshed on both sides this fortnight is
too awful to think of. Poor Austria! it is hard for
her. But as she is said to be ready to cede Venice,
then, at least, the Italian war will be at an end.
Surely the neutral Powers will try and prevent
Austria and Prussia beginning again ; it is too
horrid !
The rest of Germany now must knock under ; but
that is better than attain sheddinof so much blood on
the chance of getting the upper hand.
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 1 45
I have had some hnes from dear Louis from the
north of Hesse.^ He is well ; how I do hope now
that they won't come to blows.
How kind of you to give the children frocks for
the wedding ! Will you kiss the dear little ones from
me ? I miss them very much.
[In a letter dated July 1 1, 1866, Prince Louis an-
nounces to the Queen the birth of a strong, healthy
girl, with " dark eyes and brown hair."]
Darmstadt, July 19th.
Beloved Mama : — What a time I have passed
during these eight days since baby's birth ! Firstly,
I have to thank the Almighty for having preserved
my own sweet and adored husband, and for the
blessing of having had him by me, so dear, so
precious, during my confinement. After three days
he had to go, and when he got near Aschaffenburg
found fiehtlncf Sfoingf on. We could hear the s^uns
here. The Prussians shot from the roofs of the
houses ; they fought in the streets ; it must have
been horrid. Our troops retreated (as had always
been intended) in perfect order. The wounded were
brought in here the following day. The 13th and
14th they fought. Louis was there on the 14th;
since then I have not seen him — God knows when I
shall again.
The Prussians have taken Frankfort, and they are
at home here. No communications allowed ; get no
papers or letters ; may send none ! An existence of
monstrous anxiety and worry, which it is impossible
for those to imatrine who have not lived through it.
I had a letter from Louis from the Odenwald this
morning, written yesterday. They expected to pass
146 FENCES S ALICE.
Amorbach to-day. They are trying' to meet the
Bavarians, who are never to be found.
I long for a letter from you. We have none at
all. I have had none from you since baby's birth.
The people, who are such cowards and so silly, fly
from here in all available droschkies.
How I pray some end may soon come to this hor-
rid bloodshed! Ah! the misery around us you
can't imagine. Henry has never received his dis-
charge, and has gone unscathed, in spite of being so
exposed through all these battles.
I myself am very well, and I don't give way,
though the anxiety about Louis leaves me no peace.
Baby is well and very pretty. The time she came
at prevented a thought of disappointment at her
being a girl. Only gratitude to the Almighty filled
our hearts, that I and the child were well, and that
dear Louis and I were together at the time. The
times are hard; it wants all a Christian's courage and
patience to carry one through them ; but there is one
Friend who in the time of need does not forsake
one, and He is my comfort and support. God bless
you, my own Mama, and pray for your child,
Alice.
Friday, July 27th, 9 o'clock p.m.
At this moment the messenger has arrived, to
leave again at five to-morrow morning, A thousand
thanks for your dear letter, the first I have received
since baby's birth !
To-night (since Sunday no news of Louis) at
length I have heard that dear Louis is well.
These last four days they have been fighting again.
I had a few lines from him. These last two niofhts
he slept in a field, and the country is so poor, that
they had nothing but a little bread during two days
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 47
to eat. Now the Prussians, having made peace
with Austria, and having refused it to us, are advanc-
ing on our troops from three sides.
I can scarcely write ; this anxiety is kilHng me,
and my love has been so exposed! All are in ad-
miration of his personal bravery and tender atten-
tion to the suffering and want of all around. He
never thinks of himself, and shares all the dangers
and privations with the others.
Louis says they long for peace. He disapproves
the different Governments for not now giving way
to Prussia, and begs me to use my influence with
Uncle Louis to accept Prussian conditions to spare
further bloodshed.
From all parts of the country the people beg me
to do what I can.
The confusion here is awful, the want of money
alarming ; right and left one must help. As the Prus-
sians pillaged here, I have many people's things hid-
den in the house. Even whilst in bed I had to see
gentlemen in my room, as there were things to be
done and asked which had to come straight to me.
Then our poor wounded — the wives and mothers beg-
ging I should inquire for their husbands and children.
It is a state of affairs too dreadful to describe.
The new anxiety to-night of knowing a dreadful
battle is expected, perhaps going on, in which dear
Louis again must be ! I can scarcely bear up any
longer ; I feel it is getting too much. God Almighty
stand by us ! My courage is beginning to sink. I
see no light anywhere ; and my own beloved husband
still in danger, and we cannot hear, for the Prussians
are between us and them. Any thing may have
happened to him, and I can't hear it or know it ! I
could not go to him were he wounded.
148 PRINCESS ALICE.
What I have suffered and do suffer no words can
describe — the sleepless nights of anxiety, the long
days without news — how I pray it may soon end,
and dear darling Louis be spared me !
In these days I have so longed to hear from you.
It would have been such a comfort, and I longed for
it much.
If we live, and peace is restored, the country and
every thing will be in such a mess, and both of us
in such want of change, that we must go somewhere ;
but we shall then, I fear, be next to ruined. You
can't think what war in one's own country — in a little
one like this — is ! The want is fearful. I must go
to bed, as it is late. I am well, so is the little one ;
but I can't sleep or eat well all along ; and the worry
of mind and much to do keep me weak.
Oh, that we were together again ! Good-bye be-
loved Mama. These next days I fear will be dread-
ful. May the Almighty watch over dear Louis ! You
will pray for him, won't you ?
P. S. — The standard of Louis' cavalry regiment,
which they did not take with them, and which is
usually kept at the Schloss, is in my room for safety.
Forgive the shocking writing, but I am so upset
to-night, since my messenger of Tuesday returned
with Louis' letter.
Darmstadt, August 4th.
* * * The linen, etc., for the wounded has ar-
rived, and been so useful ; a thousand thanks for it !
Matters here change from one day to another, and I
hope Louis may soon be able to return with the
troops. Uncle Louis I do hope and pray will then
return, and I hope he will regain the favor which he
had lost, for any change now would be dreadful.
My father-in-law is really in such a state since
AT HOME AND AT WORK. I49
these events, and his nerves so shattered, that my
mother-in-law trembles for him, and tries to keep
him out of all. He is so angry, so heartbroken at
the loss of Oberhessen, which is probable, that he
wishes not to outlive it. My poor mama-in-law
burst into tears this morning in my room, where this
scene took place.
I have just returned from having been to inquire
after the wounded at the different hospitals and
houses, which are filling fast as they can be brought
from Aschaffenburg, Laufach, etc. As soon as I am
better, I will go to them myself; but the close and
crowded wards turn one easily faint.
Becker saw Louis three days ago, and accompa-
nied him to Munich for a day. I hear he is well,
though for six nights he had slept out of doors, and
the last three nights it had poured incessantly ; and
all that time — on account of ours not having a truce,
and expecting to be attacked — they were, being such a
mass together, without provisions, barely a morsel of
bread. I am so distressed about poor Anton Hohen-
zollern and Obernitz ; so many acquaintances and
friends have fallen on both sides, it is dreadful !
The town is full of Prussians. I hope they will
not remain too long, for they pay for nothing, and
the poor inhabitants suffer so much. There is chol-
era in the Prussian army,, and one soldier lies here
ill of it. I hope it won't spread.
August 13th.
* * ''' It is fearful. Those who have seen the
misery war brings with it, near by — the sufferings,
the horror — know well what a scourge it is. May
the Almighty spare our poor Germany this new evil!
I forgot to thank you in Louis' name, as he had told
me, for your letter, which he found here on his re-
150 PRINCESS ALICE.
turn. He is to-day still at Berlin, and we are so
grateful for your having written to good Fritz.
What he can do I know he will.
Uncle Louis is still at Munich, and I don't think he
will abdicate ; besides, he is at this moment doing
what his country wishes.
I received a letter from Julie Battenberg, saying
what Uncle Alexander had written to her about
Louis : "Z^ Prince Alexandre m ecrit qiiil a obtenu
du Grand Dtic la demission de Ferglas" (who com-
manded the troops so badly), '' et la nomination du
Pi^nce Louis en commandement de nos troupes ; il
Tiie dit a cette occasion que voire Mari pendant cette
triste campagne s est fait aimer et apprecier de tout le
monde qiiil scst fait une excellente reputation, et
qu'il sera regit a bras ouverts par la troupe!' * * *
It is a large command for one so young, and with so
little experience — all the more so, as we don't know
how long peace may last. He is sent to Berlin, as
the country all look to Louis to prevent new evil ;
and all this without poor Louis having any direct
position of heir to be able to enforce his opinion.
He has no easy life of it.
The horse you gave Louis he rode in the different
engagements, and praised him very much. He
stood the fire quite well, but not the bursting of the
shells close by.
About the children, the 23d is quite soon enough
for their departure.
We shall not call baby " Irene," unless all seems
really peaceful, and at this moment it does not look
promising. I am very sad and dismayed at the
whole lookout. My mother-in-law was so pleased
with your letter, and thanks you warmly for it.
A T HOME AND A T WORK. I 5 i
NiFRSTEIN, GeLBES HAUS, AugllSt 17th.
This dear da)*- makes me think so much of you, of
home, and of those two dear ones whose memories
are so precious, and who live on with us, and make
me often think that we had parted only yesterday.
We are so pleased at your saying that you claim
Louis as your son. He always considers himself
in particular your child, and if any thing helps to
stimulate him in doing his duty well, it is the sincere
wish of being worthy to claim and deserve that title.
Darling Papa would be proud of him, and pleased
to see how earnestly he takes his duties, and how
conscientiously and unselfishly he fulfils them, for he
has had and still has many trials — things I can tell
you of when we meet again.
Life is such a pilgrimage, and so uncertain is its
duration that all minor troubles are forofotten
and easily borne, when one thinks what one must
live for.
Before leaving Darmstadt yesterday to come here,
we went to see some of the wounded again. One
poor man had died since I was last there : he had
been so patient, and had suffered so much. Another
had had an operation performed and was very low —
he was crying like a child. I could scarcely comfort
him, he held my hand and always moaned out " Es
brennt so " [It burns so]. Such nice people most
of those young men are — very young, and for that
class so well educated. All who are well enough
are reading.
I must praise the ventilation and cleanliness in the
different hospitals ; in these things they have made
wonderful progress here. ■*
We are here in Rheinhessen, as Louis has to take
his command. This place, Nierstein, lies between
152 FEIA'CESS ALICE.
Worms and Mayence, and all our troops are quar-
tered about here. Louis' staff is at Worms, where
he himself is to-day, and was already last night.
He was more hopeful about the prospects for
Oberhessen on his return from Berlin, and had been
so kindly received by dear Vicky and Fritz.
When Louis wrote his farewell to his cavalry
brigade (who are so sorry to lose him), as a remem-
brance that he and they had stood in the field to-
gether for their first campaign, he asked these two
regiments, officers and men, to stand sponsors to
baby, as she was born during that time, and they
are delighted, but wish the child to have one of their
names ! We wait till the troops can come home to
christen baby on that account. " ''' * I don't
think we shall be here very long. Whenever the
Prussians leave Darmstadt we can return.
NiERSTEIN, GeLBES HaUS, AugUSt 2ISt.
* * * We are here still, and all our troops,
and Louis has a great deal to do. To-morrow the
armistice is over, and at present we have no news as
to its prolongation or the settlement of peace ; but
it must be one or other. A little private war of
Prussia against us would be absurd and impossible,
so the troops remain quartered in the little villages
about here. The country here is so rich and fertile,
the villacjes so clean, with such o^ood houses ; but
the people are blessed with children to an extraordi-
nary extent! It is the most richly populated part of
all Germany, and there are more people on the
square mile than in England.
The change of air — though it is but two hours
from Darmstadt — has done me good, and if later,
through your great kindness, a little journey should
be possible to us, it would be very beneficial to both
of us.
AT HOME AND AT IVORK. I 53
This house is quite close to the Rhine, and this
instant our pioneers have come by from Worms on
their .pontoon bridge singing a quartett, about
twenty or thirty men. It looks so pretty, and they
sing so beautifully. On their marches the soldiers
always sing, and they have so many beautiful songs,
such as : " Der gute Kamerad." The Germans are
such ?i gemutJilich [simple, kindly, sociable] people.
The more one lives with them, the more one learns
to appreciate them. It is a fine nation. God grant
this war, which has produced so many heroes, and
cost so many gallant lives, may not have been in
vain, and that at length Germany may become a
mighty, powerful Power ! It will then be the first in
the world, where the great ideas and thoughts come
from, free from narrow-minded prejudice, and when
once the Germans have attained political freedom,
they will be lastingly happy and united.
But the present state of things is sad, though one
should not despair of some good resulting from it.
My letter is quite confused. I beg a thousand
pardons for it, but I have been interrupted so often.
Gelbes Haus, August 29th.
:•-. -x- -x- 'j-j-jg children arrived well and safe, and
in such good looks. It was a great pleasure to see
them again ; and I tried to make Victoria tell me as
much as possible of dear Grandma and uncles and
aunts, and when she is not absent-minded she is
very communicative. How much we thank you,
darling Mama, for having kept them and been so
good to them I can't tell you. This change has been
so good for them ; for now there are both cholera and
small-pox at Darmstadt, which is still full of Prussian
soldiers. More have come, and our peace is not
yet concluded. I hope it is no bad sign, and that
the hopes of losing less will not disappear.
154 PRINCESS ALICE.
We were only in Darmstadt for the day when the
children arrived, and we go there for a few hours to-
morrow on business. Louis has a great deal to do,
and all the military things are in his hands.
I am not feeling very well. The air here after a
few days is relaxing, and I begin to feel more what
a strain there has been on my nerves during this
time. I have such a pain in my side again. Moun-
tain air Weber wants me to have, and quiet, away
from all bothers ; but I fear that is impossible now,
on account of Louis not beinof able to leave — and
then financially.
I have some Heimweh [home-sickness] after dear
England, Balmoral, and all at home, I own, though
the joy of being near dear Louis again is so great !
But life is meant for work, and not for pleasure, and
I learn more and more to be grateful and content
with that which the Almighty sends me, and to find
the sunshine in spite of the clouds ; for when one
has one's beloved, adored husband by one's side,
what is there in the world that is too heavy to bear?
My own darling Mama, when I think of darling Papa
and of you, and that he is not visible at your side
now, I long to clasp you to my heart, in some way
to cheer the loneliness which is a poor widow's lot.
Oh, none in the world is harder than that !
Darmstadt, August 31st.
^- -X- -x- Xhank you for telling me how you
spent that dear day ; it must have been peaceful and
solemn, the beautiful country harmonizing well with
the thoucrhts of that sfreat and beautiful soul which
ever lives on with us. He remains nearer and nearer
to me, and the recollection of many things dear Papa
told me is a help and a stay in my actions, particu-
larly of late. The separation seems so short. I can
AT HOME AND AT WORK. I 55
see him and hear him speak SO plainly. Alas! my
children have never seen him. Through you, dar-
ling Mama, and in your rooms, and at your side, they
must' learn to know him, that they may become
worthy of their descent.
Yesterday we saw the children. Victoria is not
quite well, but Ella is well, and won't leave me
when I come into the room ; she keeps kissing me
and putting her fat arms round my neck. There is
each time a scene when I go away. She is so af-
fectionate : so is dear Victoria. I send you a photo-
graph of our smallest, who is such a pretty child, and
very good.
The peace is not concluded yet ; more Prussians
have been quartered in and around Darmstadt. The
people are very angry at this lasting so long ''' ''' *
They believe it is Si7^afeinq2tariier2mg [done to pun-
ish us]. Nothing is settled as to what we keep or
lose, and we know and hear nothing. Waiting here,
uncomfortably lodged, the troops impatient to go
home, as they have nothing to do, gets very irk-
some.
Gelbes Haus, September 8th.
* * ■''^' At last the peace is concluded, though
not yet ratified. The terms are not so bad. We
lose the Hinterland and the Domains there, as also
the whole of Hesse- Homburg — in all sixty-four
thousand souls — pay three millions contribution, be-
sides having kept a large part of the Prussian army
six weeks for nothing, which cost the country twenty-
five thousand florins daily. For Oberhessen we go
into the North-German Bund, and half the army is
under Prussian command, which will make a dread-
ful confusion. Louis would prefer having it for the
whole, particularly in anticipation, alas ! of a coming
war.
156 FJ?INCESS ALICE.
The railroads, posts, and telegraphs also become
Prussian ; and they demand, besides, some fine old
pictures, books, and manuscripts, which had once be-
longed to the Kolner Dom, and were made a present
of to this country years ago ; and for our Domains
no Entschcidigimg [compensation]. In exchange for
Homburg we get some small places — amongst others,
Rumpenheim.
When the peace is ratified and the money paid,
the Prussians leave the country, which must now be
very shortly. Until then Louis must stop here, and
as he can only get leave now and then to go to
Darmstadt, and that always uncertain, baby's chris-
tening is still impossible, as Louis must be there.
She will be called " Irene Louise Marie Anna."
Gelbes Haus, September nth.
* * * Tired of constantly putting off and
waiting, we settled yesterday to have baby christ-
ened to-morrow, as it is Louis' birthday, and to go
for the day to Darmstadt. Though the Prussians
are still there, some of the godfathers are coming
over ; otherwise it will be quite quiet.
* '•' * How true and sad is what you say,
dear Mama, about life and its trials ! Alas ! that it
should be you, dear, loving, kind Mama, who have
had to drink so deeply of that cup of bitterness.
Those who possess all they love, as I do, can, how-
ever, feel all the more keenly, and sympathize more
truly with you for what you have lost, though it is a
grief we do not know. How I do long always to
alleviate this grief for you, dearest Mama ; but
that is the world's trial. None can bear the burden
for you. One must carry it one's self; and it wants
patience and courage to bear such as yours, dear
Mama. I feel for you now more than ever since
AT HOME AND AT WORK. I 57
during that month I feared from day to day my
happy life might be brought to a violent close, and
anticipated all 'the misery that might come, but
which the Almighty graciously averted.
Darmstadt, September i6th.
* * * That you sent Louis, besides the pretty
souvenir, the money for something in the house is
really so kind. Our whole dining-room we consider
your present, and it is furnished as like an English
one as possible.
The name Irene,* through other associations, is
one my parents-in-law and we like ; it stands, be-
sideSj as a sort of recollection of the peace so longed
for, and which I so gladly welcomed. It will always
reminds us of the time, and of how much we have
to be grateful for.
Darmstadt, September 24th.
■" ^ * We are settled here again ; our troops
have returned and Uncle Louis likewise. The for-
mer were received most warmly by the inhabitants
and showered with nosegays — Louis also, who rode
at their head. We saw them all in front of the
Schloss, and it was sad to see the thinned ranks and
to miss the absent faces we knew so well. On the
13th and 14th of July, at Frohnhofcn, Laufach, and
Aschaffenburg, out of 8,000 we lost 800 men and 1 1
officers, and of the officers just those who were very
intimate with the Prussians, and who wished Ger-
many to be united under Prussia.
This afternoon we are going to see after the poor
wounded, some of whom are still very ill with such
horrible wounds. So much suffering and pain and
* The Princess Charles had a sister, who died when a child, who had
borne that name.
158 PRINCESS ALICE.
grief to those poor people, who are innocent in this
unhappy war !
If only now the other sovereigns will forget their
antipathies and the wrongs they have suffered from
Prussia, and think of the real welfare of their people
and the universal fatherland, and make those sacri-
fices which will be necessary to prevent the recur-
rence of these misfortunes !
The poor Homburgers marched by with our
troops, and their tears and ours fell as we saw them
(who had fought so bravely under Uncle Louis) for
the last time before they become Prussians, and re-
turn to their homes as such.
My parents-in-law are gone to Switzerland.
Henry is become Colonel of the 2d Guard of
Uhlans at Berlin.
October ist.
* * * I can but write a few lines, as we are
going with the children to Uncle Alexander to Jug-
enheim for a few days. The change of air is wanted
for Ella, who is still pale ; and Irene has never had
any change yet, and is also rather pale.
We were at Frohnhofen and Laufach a few days
ago to see where the unfortunate engagement was,
and visited the graves of our soldiers. In the middle
of a field there is a mound, below which some eighty
men and some officers lie, and so on. It makes
a very sad impression, for as our troops retreated,
and they were buried by the people, none know
which of the common soldiers or even which of the
officers lie in the different places. We found some
balls, and thinors the soldiers had thrown off" durinof
the fight. In one grave in the churchyard, the
wounded who died afterward are buried. I asked
who lay there, and the gravedigger answered "■ Ein
AT HOME AND AT WORK. I 59
Preuss ' und ein Hess liegen dort beisammen "
[" A Prussian and a Hessian lie tliere together "],
united in death, *and fallen by each other's hand, per-
haps. Some of the officers who accompanied us,
and had not been there since the eno-acrement, were
much overcome on seeing the graves of their com-
rades. I put wreaths and flowers on them, and or-
dered crosses where we knew who lay there.
The wounded here are recovering, and I go often
to see after them.
As you say, this large Prussia is by no means an
united Germany ; but, nevertheless, I think the duty
of the other German sovereigns, in spite of all, is to
unite with Prussia and place themselves under her,
so as to make her unite with Germany. Otherwise,
the next opportunity, they will be annexed.
Heiligenburg, Jugenheim, October 7th.
* * * We return to town to-day, leaving the
children for another week, as the air on the hill is so
delicious. Louis has so much to do that he can't
remain away longer, though he went at half-past
seven every morning to his office, returning for
luncheon.
Darmstadt, October 22d.
On Thursday we are going to Waldleiningen for
a fortnight and take Victoria with us. The two
little girls knew your photograph at once, and began,
of course, to talk of you and of England.
Waldleiningen, October 31st.
* * * It is quite beautiful here. We found
dear Ernest, Marie and children well ; the former so
kind and dear, as they always are. Victoria and
Alberta get on tolerably together. The little boy is
splendid, so strong and fat.
l6o FHINCESS ALICE.
The Castle is so fine and lies just in the midst of
mountains and woods, and there are walks without
end — many of them reminding me so much of Scot-
land.
The Nichels came to see us, and Marie and I
played with Nichel*; it reminded me so much of
the Q^ood old times to see him.
Ella's birthday is to be kept when we return.
She is too small to know the difference of the day.
I thank you beforehand for the locket for her with
dear Papa's picture. The children always speak of
their two Grandpapas— dear Grandpapa in Heaven,
and dear Grandpapa in Darmstadt. Victoria, hear-
ing Papa so often mentioned, and seeing his pic-
tures about everywhere, asks no end of questions
about him.
Darmstadt, November 14th.
I am better, thank you, but I am so weak without
the least reason, and dreadfully chilly. Still, I go
out regularly in all weathers and take exercise, but
of an evening I am quite knocked up.
We always breakfast at half past eight, as Louis
gets up early and prefers it ; so that I lead a very
healthy life, and in spite of that am not well. A
change quite into another climate, for a few months
was what I really required ; but it was impossible.
On that account, dear Mama, I shall hope to have a
full three months in England when we come, and per-
haps part of the time with Bertie, if he can have us.
I went through a great deal this summer during my
confinement. The excitement and the will to keep
well kept me so at the time, but I feel it now, alas!
and show it, too, for I am getting so thin again.
* Formerly one of the Royal Band in England. Madame Nichel had
been a dresser of the Duchess of Kent's.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. l6l
Darmstadt, November 21st.
Dear Vicky's birthday. She will think how happily
she passed it at Windsor last year, and, though she
has another child, it cannot replace to her what the
other one was.
How glad I am to hear you praise dear Alix !
She is so good, tadvoll [full of tact] and true. I
love her very much.
I had the pleasure of seeing dear Countess Bliicher
for a few hours here last Sunday. She came during a
dreadful snowstorm. The young King of Bavaria is
coming here for the day to-morrow. * * *
The large pictures from Homburg — George III,,
Oueen Charlotte, George IV., William IV., and the
Duke of York en pied — Uncle Louis has given us,
and now that I have given these good people, whom
I don't like, the best places in our rooms, I should so
much like you and dear Papa, which you promised
me some years ago from the last Winterhalters, or
from those in the cfarter dress.
I look forward so much to seeiner dear Bertie here,
if only for a few hours. I suppose Monday or Sun-
day, if he travels day and night, as he leaves on
Friday ; it is a very long and cold journey.
November 22cl.
A thousand thanks for the precious book,'"' and for
your dear lines. The former I have nearly finished.
I got it yesterday morning, and you can well imagine
that every spare moment was devoted to its study.
I think it very well done, and I am only sorry
that General Grey cannot continue it, as the other
persons, I believe, did not know dear Papa. The
longer I live, the more I see and know of the world,
the deeper my tender admiration grows for such a
* " The Early Years of the Prince Consort," l)y the late General Grey.
1 62 FHINCESS ALICE.
father. It makes me feel myself so small, so imper-
fect, when I think that I am his child, and am still so
unworthy of being it. How many people here who
like to hear of dear Papa, ask me about him, and you
can understand with what pride and love I talk of
him, and tell them things which make them all share
our sorrow at not having him here any more ! But
if ever a life has outlived a man, dear Papa's has
done so. In my thoughts and aims he ever remains
the centre and the guiding star. Dear beloved Papa,
he never half knew, how much, even when a foolish
child. I loved and adored him. His great life will be
a model for many and many for generations to come,
and his ereat thoucfhts and aims can leave none idle
who knew them.
You kindly ask how I am. Better, thank you,
since I have begun some bark — quinine I can't take,
or else I should have been well sooner.
Victoria I am teaching to read — in playing with
cards with different letters on them.
November 30th.
To-day it is six whole years since we were en-
gaged to each other in the Red Drawing-room at
Windsor, when we in dear Papa's little room after-
ward received your and dear Papa's sanction to it.
And the following year — how sad that already was,
for darling Papa was beginning to be unwell. How
constantly do I think of you, beloved Mama, during
that fortnight of anxiety and sorrow ! God merci-
fully spare you to us, though for yourself it was the
commencement of the sad and lonely existence you
lead without dear Papa.
I am sure it is good for little Henry '*' to be this
* Son of the Crown Prince and Princess of Prussia.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 63
winter with you in England : the Berlin dimate is
very unwholesome. Heahh is such a blessing-. If
one has children, the first wish is they should be
healthy, for ill health influences all, and nothing
more than temper.
We intend, if possible, going for a day or two to
Carlsruhe. Poor Louise and Fritz went through so
much that is painful this summer. '^ * ""'
I read an immense deal now of serious, and what
some call dry, books ; but it is a great resource to
me, and the thought of standing still, if one does not
study, urges me on. The long winter evenings we
always spend together, and twice in the week re-
ceive in the evening, when I play on the piano duets
with such as play on the violin, and pass the even-
ings very pleasantly.
Carlsruhe, December 6th.
Thousand thanks for your dear letter ! I congrat-
ulate you on all having gone off so well at Wolver-
hampton,* and am very grateful for the account.
Dear Bertie's visit is over, and it has been a very
great pleasure to us to have seen him again, and to
have him under our own roof — where we at length
had an opportunity, in a small way, to return his
hospitality and constant kindness to us. God bless
him, dear brother! he is the one who has from my
childhood been so dear to me.
We have come here, and I think it has pleased
good Fritz. Louis seems very well. I saw Lady
Fanny Baillie yesterday, looking dear and pretty as
ever. It is a pleasure to look at her sweet face.
Carlsruhe, December nth.
As every year during tJicse days my thoughts are
* The uncovering of the monument to the Prince Consort.
164 PRINCESS ALICE.
with you, and as each year brings round again the
anniversary of that dreadful misfortune, it seems
more and more impossible that five years should al-
ready have elapsed, since he whom we all loved so
tenderly was taken from our sight. How I thank
the Almighty again and again, as this season returns,
that He spared you to us, when at such a moment,
we trembled for your precious life, fearing that two
so united in life even in death could not be parted.
What should we poor children, what would the
country have done, had that second misfortune come
over us ! Yet it seemed selfish and unkind to wish
for your loving wife's heart the solitary widow's ex-
istence. How bravely and nobly you have borne it !
We leave this to-morrow morning, and have
spent pleasant days here. There was much to talk
about together, and Fritz is so excellent and so wise,
that I am always glad to hear him. Dear Louise is
well and in good looks, and most kind.
Now I must end beloved Mama. God bless you
and comfort you, and in these days let sometimes
the thought of your absent child, who was at your
side during that dreadful time, mingle with the recol-
lection of the past !
Darmstadt, December 14th.
Beloved, precious Mama: — On awakino- this
morning, my first thoughts were of you and of dear,
darling Papa ! Oh, how it reopens the wounds
scarcely healed, when this day of pain and anguish
returns ! This season of the year the leafless
trees, the cold light, every thing reminds me of that
time !
Thousand thanks for your dear letter received
yesterday. Well, only too well, do I remember every
hour, almost every minute, of those days, and I have
AT HOME AND AT WORK. , 1 65
such an inexpressible longing to throw my arms
round your neck, and to let my tears flow with
yours, while kneeling at that beautiful grave.
The tender love and the deep sorrow caused by His
loss remain ever with me, and will accompany me
through life. At the age I then was, with its sensi-
tive feelinofs, it made an impression which, I think,
nothing can efface — above all, the witnessing your
grief. Happily married as I am, and with such a
good, excellent, and loving husband, how far more
can I understand now the depth of that grief which
tore your lives asunder ! I played our dear Papa's
organ under his beloved picture this morning, and
my heart and my thoughts were in dear England
with you all.
We found our children well on our return, and
Irene prospers perfectly on her donkey's milk.
My mother-in-law is so much pleased with the
book,* and it has interested her very much. She
came to see me early this morning on account of its
being the 14th. She is always so kind and full of
attentions.
Darmstadt, December 17th.
How dear of you to have written to me on the
14th ; thousand thanks for your letter ! How much
I thought o^ all on that day you can imagine ; also
what good it did me to know that you still thought
of me so kindly with those recollections. I am so
sorry to hear that you are so suffering. I hope Os-
borne will do you good, and that rest and quiet will
refresh you.
Darmstadt, December 21st.
* * '^" I hope by this time that you are quite
recovered, though this mild damp weather is not
♦General Grey's " Early Years of the Prince Consort."
1 66 FRIXCESS ALICE.
made to give one strength. I feel it so much also,
and am really only kept alive by steel, for off and on
I am so weak that I nearly faint if I have to stand
any time, and this is so unpleasant.
* ''^ * I am trying to found what is no small
undertaking : a " Fraiicji- Verei7i," to be spread all
over the land in different committees, the central
one being here under my direction, for the purpose
of assisting the International Convention for nursing
and supporting the troops in time of war, which was
founded at Geneva, and to which this country also
belongs. The duty in time of peace will be to have
nurses brought up and educated for the task, who
can then assist in other hospitals or amongst the
poor, or to nurse the rich, wherever they may be
required in time of war. This committee of women
has to collect all the necessary things for the wounded
and for the marching troops, has to see to their
being sent to right places, etc.
All these things were done by private people in
this war, and, though quantities of things were sent,
the whole plan was not organized, so that there v.'as
want and surplus at the same time.
In time of peace these things should be organized,
so that, when war comes, people know where to
send their things to, and that no volunteer nurses go
out who have not first learnt their business.
The same thing exists in Baden, in Bavaria, and in
Prussia, and here it is much wanted. But all these
undertakings are difficult, particularly in the choice
of persons to assist one. Still I hope I shall be able
to do it. My mother-in-law helps me, and I hope
before lonof to be able to beorin.
The Elector is coming here on a visit to-day, and
Uncle Alexander returned from Petersburg last
night.
A T HOME A AW A T WORK. l6y
Darmstadt, December 25th,
* * * I have a dreadful cold, and am not
very well besides, so I can but scribble a few lines.
To-day v^e go to the Bescheerinig [distribution of
Christmas gifts] to the wounded in three hospitals.
Of course it will be very hot.
Henry is here for a few days. He looks so hand-
some in his new uniform with his dark beard. He
has grown so good-looking these last few years, and
he is so excellent. I am very fond of him. He is
likewise so much gayer than formerly.
The good eatables you sent will be given to-night,
when Louis' parents and brothers come to us for
dinner.
The children have a party for their tree.
Darmstadt, December 30th.
* * * May the Almighty give you every
blessing of peace and comfort which the world can
still give you, till you gain that greater blessing and
reward above all others, which is reserved for such
as my own sweet mother ! May every blessing fall
on my old dear home, v^^ith all its dear ones ! May
peace, and the glory which peace and order bring
with it, with its many blessings, protect my native
land ; and may, in the new year, your wise and glo-
rious reign, so overshadowed by dear Papa's spirit,
continue to prosper and be a model and an ornament
to the world !
This year of pain and anxiety, and yet for us
so rich in blessings, draws to a close. It moves me
more than ever as its last day approaches. For how
much have we not to thank the Almighty — for my
life, which is so imworthy compared to many others,
the new life of this little one, and above all the pres-
ervation of my own dear husband, who is my all in
this life.
1 68 FHINCESS ALICE.
The trials of this year must have brought some
good with all the evil : good to the individual
and good to the multitude. God grant that we may-
all profit by what we have learnt, and gain more and
more that trust in God's justice and love, whicli
is our guide and support in trouble and in joy! Oh,
more than ever have I felt in this year, that God's
goodness and love are indeed beyond compre-
hension !
* * * I am really glad to hear that you
can listen to a little music. Music is such a heavenly
thing, and dear Papa loved it so much, that I can't
but think that now it must be soothine, and brino-
you near to him. * * *
1867.
The experiences of the late war had shown the
necessity for an efficient and widespread organiza-
tion for aid to the sick and w^ounded on the battle-
field. Already in i865 a society had been formed
in Hesse, with Prince and Princess Charles as its
patrons, in accordance with the resolutions passed at
the Geneva Convention in 1863, and had done good
work in the last war. The nursino- of the wounded
had hitherto been undertaken by " Deaconesses,"
Sisters of Mercy, and orders of a kindred nature.
After the close of the war, those at the head of
the committee (or Society) made themselves respon-
sible, so far as lay in their power, for the wounded
and disabled, and for the families of those who had
fallen in the war. It was, however, felt to be very
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 69
desirable that other committees should be formed
throughout the country for the purpose of training
specially-qualified nurses.
The Princess was deeply interested in this ques-
tion — indeed, her whole attention had been directed
to it since the beofinnincr of the war, after she had
seen what was done in Baden under the direction of
the Grand Duchess. She had also before her the
example of Florence Nightingale, and the good she
had done durinof and after the Crimean war. The
Princess was naturally fond of nursing, and of all
that had to do with it, and she therefore eagerly
took up the idea of founding a Frauen-Verein, or
"Ladies' Union" — an idea which, under her au-
spices, was soon most successfully carried out.
She wished lay women and ladies of all classes to
join in this undertaking, so that the nursing should
not be confined, as heretofore, to religious orders
only. After much consultation a committee was
formed in 1867, consisting of six ladies and four
doctors, with the Princess as President. The central
committee of the " Ladies' Union " was to be at
Darmstadt, under the Princess' direction. The
other committees spread over the whole country.
Its object was to assist " the nursing and supporting
of the troops in times of war," and in times of peace
to " train nurses, to assist other hospitals, or amongst
the poor, or to nurse the rich " — in fact, to help
wherever help was required. In 1868 the members
belonging to the " Ladies' Union " had greatly in-
I70 PRINCESS ALICE,
creased, and in 1869 they reached the number of
2,5oo.
The duties of the local committees consisted in
collecting money and all necessary materials for the
wounded or for the troops on the march. The cen-
tral committee did its best in times of peace to direct
the general attention to this most important question
by lectures on the subject, delivered by medical men.
At the time the Princess started this undertaking
she was also much occupied with another all-engross-
ing subject — viz.: the improvement of the condition
of poor unmarried women and girls, as well as the
education of girls in general. The Princess found an
able assistant in Fraulein Louise Biichner — a most
distinguished authoress, and the champion of
women's rights, more particularly of the higher edu-
cation of women.
With her help the Princess formed another com-
mittee for the encouragement of" Female Industry."
A permanent Bazaar was established on the 2 5th of
November, 1867, called after the Princess, "The
Alice Bazaar," for the purpose of receiving and dis-
posing of articles of needlework at their proper value,
and also for obtaining employment for women of all
classes. The "Bazaar "soon became a flourishing
institution.
At the beginning of the year 1867 the Prince and
Princess went to Gotha, where they met the Crown
Prince and Princess of Prussia for the first time since
the war. They then went for a few weeks to Berlin.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 171
After the threatening rumors of war caused by the
Luxembourg question had been dispersed, the Em-
peror Napoleon invited all the Sovereigns and
Princes' of Europe to visit the great International
Exhibition at Paris. Prince and Princess Louis,
amongst others, accepted the invitation, and were at
Paris at the same time as the Emperor of Russia, the
King of Prussia, and the Crown Prince and Princess
of Prussia. The Prince and Princess visited many
other places of interest and note at Paris besides the
great Exhibition. All institutions for art had a great
attraction for her, and she took up the idea most
warmly of founding Schools of Design in her own
country, as she hoped they would exercise a good
influence there.
During the Prince and Princess' visit the great
review of the Imperial troops in the Bois de Boulogne
took place ; and on that day, too, the happily unsuc-
cessful attempt on the Emperor of Russia's life was
made.
After attending all the festivities at the Imperial
Court, where the Prince and Princess received every
possible attention and kindness from the Emperor
and Empress, they left Paris on the loth of June,
and, having met their children at Calais, crossed
over to England. During this stay in England the
Princess visited the German and many other Hos-
pitals, and she also assisted in doing the honors for
the Queen at several Court festivities. She was
present at Windsor and Osborne during the visits of
172 PRINCESS ALICE.
the Sultan, who had been so cordially received in
England, and in whose honor a great naval review
at Spithead was held.
Prince and Princess Louis returned to Darmstadt
in the first days of August ; and, having established
their children there, they left for St. Moritz in the
Engadine, where they intended to spend a month,
and where the Princess was to take the baths.
Whilst there they made several excursions, travel-
Hng about quite simply, like any other tourists.
On their return to Germany, the Prince and
Princess spent a few days with the Grand Duke and
Grand Duchess of Baden on the island of Mainau on
the Lake of Constance. During the autumn the
Princess met several of her own brothers and sisters.
She also went to Cassel to meet the Crown Prince
and Princess of Prussia, who were returning from a
visit to England.
GoTHA, January 15th.
* * * It is a great happiness to be with dear
Vicky and Fritz, and the future — that which is to be
feared, that which must inevitably come — is of course
our constant talk. Whatever comes, our position,
and that of other small sovereigns, must undergo a
change, which for the older ones will be very hard,
and which they will ever feel. Even dear Louis,
who is so sensible and reasonable, says he has been
brought up with particular rights, which for centuries
have been ours, and he feels sore that he is never to
inherit them.
Dear aunt seems very well, and is ever like a
second mother to us, so loving and kind; also dear
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 73
uncle. Papa's and your children are dear to him
almost as though .they were his own ; and he lives to
see us with our families and in our homes, whereas
darling. Papa does not. Yesterday the Brant von
Messina was given — that beautiful piece which Papa
was so fond of. I thought so much of you.
On Thursday Vickv anrl Fr-ii— — • ^ g
tx^^""^ ^^ ^.^^
UlA^A-^^
<t^(^}/'
n
... ....weiiK^ x^ducnert .j; here two days ago, look-
ing so well, and charming as ever.
Little Vicky is such a darling, very like her poor
* Princess Feodorc Victoria Adelaide Paulina Amelia Maria, daughter of
Queen Victoria's sister, the Princess IIohenlnhc-Langenburp;, and wife of
the Hereditary Prince, now tlie Duke of Saxe-Meiningen. She died at the
age of thirty-three, on the loth of P'ebruary, 1872.
f Major Elphinstone, Prince Arthur's Governor from 1859, now Sir
Howard Elphinstone, K.C.B.
X Princess Amalie of Hohenlohe-SchilJingsfUrst, niece of Queen Vic-
toria's late brother-in-law, Prince of Hoheniohe-Langenburg, married to an
artist, Herr Lauchert.
174 PRINCESS ALICE.
little brother — so merry, so good, one never hears
her cry — and it is really a comfort to Vicky to have
that dear little thing. Poor Vicky is very sad and
low at times.
After intense cold it is quite warm, like spring,
which is very unwholesome and tiring.
Darmstadt, February i6th,
* * * I think I can understand what you must
feel. I know well what those first three years were
— what fearful suffering, tearing and uprooting those
feelings which had been centred in beloved Papa's
existence! It is indeed, as you say "in mercy,"
that after the long storm a lull and calm ensues,
though the violent pain, which is but the reverse
side of the violent love, seems only to die out with
it, and that is likewise bitter. Yet, beloved Mama,
could it be otherwise ? There would be no justice
or mercy, were the first stage of sorrow to J)e the
perpetual one ; and God grant, that time may still
soothe and alleviate that which it cannot change ! I
can only imagine what the loss must be, if I measure
it by the possession of that one adored being, who is
the centre and essence of my existence.
Darmstadt, February 28th.
* * * Yesterday we had a very interesting
lecture in our house about Art in Venice, by a
young Swede [Herr von Molin], who has been
studying three years in Italy. We had the room
full of people, artists, and professors, who liked to
listen.
■X- -jc- * ^]| ^i^g natural cleverness and sharp-
ness in the world won't serve nowadays, unless one
has learnt something. I feel this so much ; and
just in our position it is more and more required
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 75
and expected, particularly in a small place, where so
much depends op the personal knowledge and ex-
ertions of the Prmces. ,
Darmstadt, March 8th.
* * * The knowledge of dear sweet Alix's
state makes me too sad. It is hard for them both,
and the nursing must be very fatiguing for Mrs.
Clarke. I am so distressed about darlino- Alix that
I really have no peace. It may, and probably will,
last long, which is so dreadful.'^'
March 28th.
* ^ «• ■X- -yy-g lyjg^n to have some children on the
5th, so that Victoria can have a party.
My father-in-law is better again, I am happy to
say. The warm weather did him good at once.
Darmstadt, April ist.
* * * I could not write the other day, as I
had a gfood deal to do with two committees for
charities, which had to be got into order, and which
took up a great deal of my time.
Cold, hail, snow, and rain, have returned ; and
Irene has got a cold, which most people here have.
The weather is so unpleasant.
We shall stop here in town until we go to Eng-
land, as we have nowhere to go to before. It is a
pity for the children to have no country air, and
they miss the flowers in their walks. I can't praise
Orchard f enough. Such order she keeps, and is so
industrious and tidy, besides understanding so much
about the management of the children's health and
characters.
* The Princess of Wales was sufiering at the lime from rheumatic fever
and rheumatism.
f Their nurse, who is still (1884) with the youngest child, Princess Alix.
176 PRINCESS ALICE.
Darmstadt, April 5th.
Thousand thanks for your dear letter, and for the
kind wishes for Victoria's birthday ! I pray she may
be a worthy granddaughter and goddaughter of my
darhng Mamma ! I shall never forget that day —
your kindness to us, and the tender nurse you
were. '
Victoria means to dictate a letter to you ; she is
so much pleased with her presents. Irene has not a
tooth yet, and is not very fat, poor little thing ! but
she is fresh and rosy, and, I think, strong.
This last week the excitement here has been
dreadful, as all anticipated a war with France on
account of Luxembourof. I fear sooner or later it will
come. May the Almighty avert such a calamity !
The Moriers were quite in ecstasies about your
handsome present. The christening"^' went off
very well.
April Sth,
* * * We have just returned from church,
and to-morrow morning we all take the Sacrament
at nine o'clock in the Schlosskirche. Professor
Jowett is here on a visit to the Moriers, and is going
to read the service on Sunday. I have not had an
opportunity to attend our English service since we
were at Windsor, excepting one Sunday at Berlin
with Vicky and Fritz.
People think now, the evil of war is put off for a
few weeks, but that is all. Henry is here for Easter,
and says the same from all he heard at Berlin.
April 2ist.
* * * How I wish you may be right in not
believing in war. I always fear it is not Luxem-
* Of their child, to whom Queen Victoria stood sponsor.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 77
bourg, but the intense jealousy of the French nation,
that they should 'iiot be the first on the Continent,
and that Germany is becoming- independent and
powerful against their will. Then, again, the Ger-
mans feel their new position, and assert their rights
with more force because unanimous, and neither na-
tion will choose to grive in to the other.
The war would be totally useless, and sow no end
of dissension and hatred between the two neighbor
countries, who, for their own good as for that of man-
kind, ought to live in peace and harmony with each
other.
We seem drifting back to the Middle Ages, as
each question is pushed to the point of the sword.
It is most sad. How dear Papa would have disap-
proved of much that has happened since 1862 !
Is the Catalocrue which Mr. Ruland sent some
time ago to Mr. Woodward for dear Papa's Raphael
Collection in print now ? * So many people know
of its coming out, and are anxious to see it, as, in-
deed, I am likewise, for it is the only complete col-
lection in the world, and the world of art is anxious
to know all about it. Will you, perhaps, let me
know through Mr. Sahl,f as I believe it is already a
good while since you approved of its being pub-
lished, and gave the orders for its being printed?
May 2d.
As yet none dare to be sure of the peace, but all
live again since there are more chances for its being
maintained. But, then, I trust it will be a perma-
nent peace, not merely a putting off till next year!
The French press was so very warlike, and it al-
ways talks of the French honor not being able to
* This Catalogue was not completed and made public till 1876.
\ Her Majesty's private librarian.
178 PRINCESS ALICE.
allow such a mighty empire as the German is be-
coming to gain the upper hand ; and then rectifica-
tion of her frontiers, always wishing for the Rhine.
Poor little Anna of Mecklenbure is here ; it
seemed so sad to see the dear little child come alone
to inhabit the rooms its Mama had never returned
to. She looks delicate, very fair, but with dark,
thick eyebrows and eyelashes ; rather shy and silent
for she has no little children to play with in her
home. My two led her about at once, and tried to
amuse her. Ella, who is five months older, is a
head taller and twice as broad. I am so afraid they
will be too rough with her, for dear, fat Ella is very
strong, and by no means gentle.
Annchen has an old nervous nurse, who is too
frightened about her. It is a great responsibility,
where there is no mother. It looks so sad!
May 13 th.
I must tell you something in confidence of what
has taken place here with regard to Louis. * * *
Since Louis took the command last August, and
since the Convention with Prussia has been settled,
Louis has been opposed by Uncle Louis and the
KriegsinhiistcrUim [War Department"], in doing all
the things which he thought absolutely necessary,
and which toward Prussia the Grand Duke had
promised to do, so as to get the troops into the
necessary order and organization. Here the Gov-
ernment is, Louis has reason to fear, once more play-
ing a false game toward Prussia, and all his true
friends and a small party of the clever-thinking
people have encouraged him in the idea that to
serve his country, he may and must not be impli-
cated in the present sad and desperate state of
affairs.
AT' HOME AND AT WORK. 1 79
It has cost him a great struggle to make up his
mind to ask Uncle Louis to accept his resignation,
which he has been obliged to demand, as he felt that
under present circumstances he could not fulfil what
was desired of him.
Uncle Louis may refuse to let him go ; then he
intends to ask for leave until the ist of October, the
date when the Convention must be carried out, when
he hopes and trusts the King will send a Prussian
general to put all in order.
Uncle Louis and his Uingebung [the people about
him] will all be against my Louis, as they think it a
shame and injustice to give up any of their rights,
and that it is unpardonable of Louis to act up to
what he has always said. He is so good a nephew,
that all this will be dreadfully painful to him ; but he
is quite convinced that his duty to his country and
his future demands this step of him. He is obliged
to go away from here, as he does not think it right
for him to be always in opposition to Uncle
Louis, and as he cannot gain by it what the country
and the troops require. On account of all these
reasons he considers it risfht to leave.
He wished me to write all this to you, as he knows
you will understand and not disapprove the confi-
dence he bestows on one, on whose opinion he quite
relies. He looks forward so much to coming to
England, as he is worried and harassed by all that
has happened. \\\ all this he has again shown, as of
old, that he always places himself Zind his wishes and
feelings in the background, and that to serve others
and to do his duty are the sole aims of his existence.
He will, as soon as he has received an answer from
the Grand Duke, telegraph to you to settle our
plans. The children are overjoyed at the prospect
of seeinnr their dear Grandmama again.
l8o FHINCESS ALICE.
I am not up to very much, I don't always feel
quite strong ; but the change will do my good, I am
sure.
May 1 6th.
The Grand Duke has not as yet consented to
Louis' resignation. Louis has made conditions,
under wliich it will be possible for him to remain, if
Uncle L. consents. The first condition is to have a
Prussian officer at his side. The Grand Duke de-
clared he would sooner lose his country than give
his consent to that. Louis has now officially written
his letter of requirements, and sent it. But, what-
ever happens, he will be able to get a short leave,
he thinks, by the beginning of June.
May 19th.
The military affair is at length settled. Uncle
Louis has given in to the points Louis demanded,
and he retains his command. All are astonished at
Louis' unlooked-for success in this aftair, and as
Uncle L. would not have a Prussian General, and
had no one here to take in Louis' stead, who could
do the things well, he had to agree and to allow
what Louis was justified in asking. Louis' firmness
and decision have done great good, and all are
thankful to him for it, though others, who ought to
do as he has done, have never shown the courage.
Louis is laid up with the most awful nettle-rash
all over face and body, and is so unwell with it. He
has had it now three days. Altogether since the
winter, or rather since the war, he has had so much
cause for vexation, that he has been constantly
unwell ; and each time he is much worried he has
an attack of illness.
May 29th.
* * * I presided at my committee of seven
AT HOME AND AT WOP.IC. l8l
ladies and four gentlemen a long while yesterday,
and to-morrow "l have my other one, which is more
numerous. It is an easy task, but I hope we shall
have good results from our endeavors.
Paris, June 9th.
I really am half killed from sight-seeing and fetes,
but all has interested me so much, and the Emperor
and Empress [of the French] have been most kind.
Yesterday was the ball at the Hotel de Ville, quite
the same as it had been for you and dear Papa, and
there were more than 8,000 people there. It was
the finest sieht I have ever seen, and it interested
me all the more, as I knew it was the same as m the
year when you were at Paris.
Every morning we went to the Exhibition, and
every evening there was a dinner or ball. It was
most fatiguing. To-morrow morning we leave, and
had really great trouble to get away, for the Emperor
and Empress and others begged us so much to re-
main for the ball at the Tuileries to-morrow night ;
but we really could not, on account of Wednesday's
concert,* as we should barely arrive in time.
The attc7itat on the Emperor of Russia was dread-
ful, and we were close by at the time. The Empress
can't get over it, and she docs not leave Uncle
Sache's f side for an instant now, and takes him
everywhere in her carriage.
To-day we are going with the whole Court to
Versailles. Dear Vicky is gone. She was so low
the last days, and dislikes going to parties so much
just now, tliat she was longing to get home. The
King [of Prussia] wished them both to stop, but only
Fritz remained. How sad these days will be for her,
* At Buckingham Palace. f The Emperor of Russia.
1 82 PRINCESS ALICE.
poor love ! She was in such good looks ; every one
here is charmed with her.
[During the months of June and July, 1867, the
Princess with her family was on a visit in England.]
Darmstadt, August 4th.
We arrived here at midnight on Friday and I was
so knocked up * * * that I was incapable of
doing any thing yesterday.
^ * * My poor Willem * was buried yester-
day. Every one regrets the poor child, for he was
very dear. I miss him so much here, for he did
every thing for me, and liked being about me and
the children. All our servants went to the burial.
It quite upset me here not to find him, for I was
really attached to him, and he learnt so well, and was
in many ways so nice, though of course troublesome
too at times. How short life is, and the instant one
is gone, he is so wiped away for others, and one
knows so absolutely nothing about the person any
more ! Were it not for a strong faith in a future, it
would indeed be cruel to bear. No one of the
family is here. We leave to-morrow for Ziirich,
where we shall be at ten at night ; the next day to
Chur, and the next day to St. Moritz.
St. Moritz, August ist.
With perfect w^eather we accomplished our
journey perfectly, and were enchanted with the
beautiful scenery from Ziirich here, not to speak of
this place.
The first day — 5th — we left Darmstadt at 11 a.m.,
and did not reach Zurich till eleven at night. We
got two little rooms in the Hotel Baur, but the
* The Princess' servant (see ante, p. 56). The boy was brought from
Java by Baron Schenk-Schmiitburg. His father was a negro, his moiher
a Javanese.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 83
whole place was full. The next morning after break-
fast we went fro look at the lovely lake, which is
green and quite transparent. It was a beautiful
warm morning. We left by rail at ten, partly along
the lake of Zurich and then along the Wallenstadter
See, which is long and narrow, with high perpendicu-
lar mountains down to the water — very wild and
picturesque. This lake likewise is of that marvellous
green color. We reached Chur at three that after-
noon — a pretty small town, situated close up against
a mountain. We visited a beautiful old church there,
which contains fine old pictures and relics ; it was
built in the time of the Romans, and is still the
chief church of the bishopric.
The next morning we two, with Sarah, Logoz
and our footman, left at six o'clock in a diligence
(we both sitting in the coupe in front) with four
horses, for here the road is the grandest one can im-
agine, perpetually ascending for two hours, and then
descending again, always along precipices, and the
horses at a quick trot turning sharp round the
corners — which, I assure you is a trial to the best
nerves. We drove over the Julier Pass, which was
a road already used by the Romans, and which is
almost the highest in Switzerland. One passes
close to the top of the mountains, which have snow
on them, and arc wild and rugged like the top of
Lochnagar. Lower down, the mountains are cov-
ered with bright green grass and fir trees, but rocks
look out everywhere, and there are constantly lovely
water- falls.
After crossing the Pass, we drove down — very
steep, of course nothing on the edge of the road,
always zigzag, and at a sharp trot — for some dis-
tance down to Silva Plana, where the view over the
1 84 P J? IN CESS ALICE.
valley and lakes of the Engadine, where St. Moritz
lies, is beyond description beautiful.
We reach this in the evening at six o'clock, the
weather beinof most beautiful. The Curhaus is be-
low the town, and looks like a large asylum. It is
overfilled with people. We have two rooms, but
our people as yet, none, though they hope for some
to-morrow.
I saw Dr. Berry, a little Swiss man, and he rec-
ommended me to take the baths twice a week, be-
sides drinking the waters ; which I have begun this
morning at seven o'clock, the usual hour, as one
has to walk up and down a quarter of an hour be-
tween the orlasses. The bath I took at ten. It is
tepid and also iron water, which bubbles like soda
water, and makes one feel as if insects were crawl-
inof over one.
Lina Aumale is here, the Parises and Nemours.
Fritz and Louise [of Baden] leave to-morrow. This
afternoon we drove with them, in two funny little
" Wageli " with one horse, to Samaden, where
Louise went into the hotel to see Mme. d'Usedom,
who was lately upset with her carriage off the road,
as there is no barrier, and hurt herself severely.
We saw her brother likewise.
I have sent you a nosegay of Edelweiss and other
Alp flowers. I hope it won't arrive quite dead.
You must fancy them alive, and, if they could speak,
they would tell you how much I love you, and how
constantly I think of you, and of my dear, dear home!
St. Moritz, August nth.
* * * All the Orleans' left this place suddenly
yesterday, as there are three cases of scarlatina in
the house. We consulted the doctor immediately,
whether he thought it safe for Louis to remain, he
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 8$
never having had it, and he said, " Perfecdy, as we
are at the other end of the house, and out nearly all
day."
Victor and Lolo [Count and Countess Gleichen]
are here, and we went out drawing together yester-
day ; but it is too difficult here. I think constantly
how much you would admire this place : it is indeed
exquisitely beautiful — much the finest I have ever
seen. It is very wild and reminds me in parts of
dear Scotland.
You say that our home in England is dull now
for those who like to amuse themselves. It is never
dull, darling Mama, when one can be with you, for
I have indeed never met a more asfreeable charminof
companion. Time always flies by when one is with
you. I hope it is not impertinent my saying so.
St. Moritz, August 13th.
* * * I knew you would feel for me at the
loss of my poor Willem. Of course one must feel
that sort of loss more than that of many a relation,
if one knew the latter but little. I said to Louis at
the time, that Willem's death distressed me more
than would that of several relations who were not
intimate with me. * * *
Yesterday we and the Gleichens went to the
Rosegg Glacier, and to get there had to go from
Pontresina in little Bcrs'ivas'eii, which are stronof
miniature Lciteiujagen without springs, and we went
over a horrid path with quantities of stones, so the
shaking was beyond description.
Victor and Lolo go mostly with us and we always
dine together.
I take three glasses beginning at seven in the
morning, and a bath at eight. One lies in a wooden
thing, covered over up to one's chin with boards,
and remains so twenty minutes.
1 86 FHINCESS ALICE.
We lunch at twelve and dine at half-past six,
and go to bed early. We are out nearly all day
long. It is very warm, the sun scorching ; my
face is quite red-brown, in spite of veils and
parasols. I feel already very much better, and
Louis says my face is quite fat. I wish we could
remain longer than the end of the month, but Louis
must be home.
I hope you notice the pains I take with my writ-
ing, for you complained of it at Osborne — I fear,
justly — and I am trying to improve it again.
St. Moritz, August i6th.
Yesterday we made a beautiful expedition, which
it may amuse you to hear of, as in an exaggerated
way it reminded me of our nice Scotch ones. The
evening before we left with Victor and Lolo (without
servants) about eight o'clock for Pontresina. The
country looked more beautiful than ever in the
brightest moonlight. We found two very small but
clean rooms in an hotel outside the village.
The next morning we got up at half- past four,
dressed, and breakfasted, then got on four horses
with most uncomfortable saddles, with our guide
Adam Engler, an amusing man, most active and
helpful. We saw the sun rising over the snow-
covered mountains, and the valleys gradually com-
ing: out clearer.
We were to ascend the Piz Languard, a mountain
1,200 feet high. We rode for two hours by a worse
and much steeper road than up the Glassalt, then
walked over rocks, sand, and slippery grass, so steep
that one could not look up to see where one was
going to, quite precipitous on each side, leaving snow
and glacier below us. The last bit has a sort of im-
mensely high steps hewn in the rock. After an
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 8/
hour and a half's hard labor we reached the summit,
which is rocky ajid small — enormous precipices all
round. Poor Lolo was giddy for some time, which
was very unpleasant. The view from the top is
most extensive. The Italian, Swiss, and Tyrolese
Alps are all to be seen, but the view was not very
clear. We rested and ate something, and drank
some Lochnagar whisky. The sun was getting in-
tense. We commenced our descent at eleven
o'clock, and had to walk the whole way back, for
one can't ride down. We did not reach Pontresina
till nearly four, as we had to rest several times, our
limbs ached so, for there is no level ground the
whole way, and the stones slip, and it was very hot.
I had quite sore feet with blisters all over, so that
the last hours were really agonizing. But it is
a thing to have done, and the view amply repaid
one, though one does not feel tempted to do it a
second time. I feel very well, excepting my face,
(which is still burning and quite red), and my unfor-
tunate feet.
Poor Christa wrote to me yesterday, and says ; —
" I must also tell your Royal Highness that I have
received a letter in her own hand from Her Majesty
the Queen. I cannot express how deeply this has
moved me and filled me with gratitude. God bless
the Queen for her rare human love ; for surely there
is no one, who in such a position as hers, has pre-
served a heart like hers, so full of kindness and
sympathy for others." '^'
Dear sweet Mama, your kind and sisterly words
have been balsam to many a wounded heart, and
many are the blessings that have been craved for
you from above by hearts filled with thankfulness
for your true sympathy. :
* Wc give tliis extract in a translation, instearl of t le original German.
1 88 PRINCESS ALICE.
St. Moritz, August 21st.
* * * Now I will tell you of our expedition.
Louis and I, Victor and Lolo, and a guide, with each
a small bag, left this early on the morning of the
17th (dear Grandmama's birthday) in a carriage for
Pontresina ; from thence, in two of those shaky
Bergwagen, over part of the Bernina Pass, past the
magnificent Morteratsch Glacier, which we saw per-
fectly. The guide told us he had been there with
Professor Tyndall, and that the latter had observed
that the glacier advanced a foot a day in the warm
weather, and old people recollect it having been a
mile higher up. We soon left the high-road, and
all vegetation, save grass, for a bad path into the
Val da Fain. The heat was again intense. We
lunched and rested, and then took the horses out of
the carts for us ladies to ride. The scenery was
wild and severe, until we betjan aofain to descend,
and came down upon the lovely Livigno Valley,
which is Italian, and covered with brown chalets.
We reached the village of Livigno, with only wooden
huts, by six o'clock, and turned into a funny little
dark inn, in which we four found one small but clean
room for us — most primitive. As the inhabitants
speak a sort of Italian, we had the greatest diffi-
culty to make ourselves understood. Victor cooked
part of the dinner, and it was quite good.
We all slept — I resting on a bed, the other three
on the floor — in this little room, with the small win-
dow wide open.
The next morning we left at nine, and drove on
no road in such a small carriage — of course, no
springs — our husbands at first getting a lift on the
horses, without saddles ; then on foot up a steep and
dangerous ascent. Splendid weather, but too hot.
A 7' HOME AND AT WORK, 1 89
We went over the Pass of the Stretta : a more dif-
ficult and rough, ground I never crossed in my Hfe,
but splendid scenery. We came on a view which
was glorious — such enormous snow-covered moun-
tains and glaciers, with the green valleys deep
below looking on Italy and the Tyrol.
We reached Bormio by seven, and took up our
residence at a bathing-place, quite magnificently
situated, very high up — also Italian. The next
morning we started early in carriages, and went over
the Stelvio Pass. There, nearly at the risk of my
neck, I picked for the first time some Edelweiss,
which I am very proud of, as it is always difficult
and rare to get.
We got down to St. Maria, which is at the upper
end of the Miinsterthal and belongs to Switzerland.
In the afternoon, dreadfully hot, I was very thirsty
and drank off a glass of milk ; but how it tasted ! It
was goat's milk ; the people keep the cow's milk for
butter and cheese. We remained the night there,
and left the next morning for here, by Zernetz and
Ofen. To get from one valley into another, one has
always to ascend and descend enormous heights, and
always by narrow paths at the edge of precipices.
We enjoyed our tour immensely, and got on per-
fecdy without servants. Packing up my things,
though, every morning was a great trouble, and the
bag would usually not shut at first. The trees grow-
ing here are splendid larches and arven '=' ; the latter
grow only in these very high regions and in Siberia.
Victor and his wife are most amiable and pleasant
travelling-companions, and pleased with every thing ;
not mindinof to rough it, which we had to do.
* A kind of dwarf tree — half pine, half juniper — which grows in ihe
highest regions of the Alps, and supplies most of the soft wood used by the
Swiss wood-carvers.
I go PRINCESS ALICE,
ScHLOSs Mainau, August 30th.
* * * We left St. Moritz at seven, and reached
Chur at seven in the evening. The next day we
came on here to Louise of Baden. Fritz is at
Carlsruhe. This place is very lovely, though, alas !
the fine mountains are gone, which one always
misses so much.
1 thought of you more than I can say on the dear
26th, and I felt low and sad all day. Dear Papa!
Time has not yet accustomed us to see each anni-
versary come round again, and he still remain away.
It is so inexpressibly hard for you, and you must feel
such intense longing for the dear past. There re-
mains a future ! that is the only consolation.
To-day we went with Louise by carriage, and then
across part of the lake to the property of the Em-
peror Napoleon, Arenenberg, which the Empress
gave him eight years ago, and which was his home
with his mother, and where she died. Every picture
and bit of furniture is replaced as it was when the
Emperor lived there, and he was there himself and
replaced every thing. It is quite a page in history to
see all the things that surrounded the Emperor in the
days of his misfortune.
Darmstadt, September 8th,
* * * I spent three days and two nights with
dear Alix at Wiesbaden, and I find her leg decidedly
better. * * * j^ jg -^ little less hot to-day, but
much hotter even now than we ever have in England.
Stallmeister Meyer * came to see us yesterday, and
we took him out riding, which made him quite
happy. Any one who reminds me of the good old
times before the 14th of December does me good ;
it is a pleasure to speak about those past, so happy
* Riding-master to the Prince Consort and the Queen from 1840 to 1871.
^ AT HOME AND AT WORK. I9I
days ! When they came to a close, I lost the greater
part of my joyousness, which, though I am so happy,
has never returned. A certain melancholy and sad-
ness sometimes overcome me, which I can't shake
off ; then I have Heimweh after adored Papa to such
an extent that tears are my only relief.
Darmstadt, September 20th.
* * * The Kinof of Prussia's visit went off
very well here, and both high personages seemed
pleased to have got over the meeting. The King
came most kindly to see us, and went over all our
rooms, which seemed to amuse him. ''' '^ '"
Yesterday evening Sache and Minnie * arrived, and
we intend o-oinof over to see them all to-morrow.
Louis will retain the command, but, according to
the King's advice, has demanded a Prussian General
Stabschef [Chief of the Staff], which will be a great
assistance to him.
At the sale of the Homburg things I bought a
lovely miniature of dear Grandmama in a black velvet
gown, with a red shawl over her shoulder — shortly
after her marriage, I think.
Darmstadt, October 3d.
Yesterday evening I returned from Wiesbaden,
leaving Alix well, but havinsf causfht a bad cold my-
self. The children have equally heavy ones.
Darmstadt, October 8th.
Many thanks for your letter just received, and for
the review of dear Papa's Life, which is excellent,
and which I sent on to Aunt Feodore, as you de-
sired. I have been laid up for a week with influenza,
and am only about again since yesterday, though not
out of the house. I am quite weak from it. The
* The Cesarewitch and Cesarewna,
192 PRINCESS ALICE. ^
whole house is laid up with bad colds, and baby
can't shake her's off at all. The cough is so tiring,
and she whoops whenever she coughs. Poor Jager,
who is, alas! we fear, consumptive, broke a blood-
vessel two days ago, and is dangerously ill, to the
great grief of all in the house. He is our best ser-
vant, and so devoted ; he never would take care of
himself, as he could not bear letting any one but
himself attend on Louis. We have just got a Dia-
konissin [Deaconness] to nurse him ; on account of
his great weakness he can't be left alone one instant.
Sir William, Lady, and Charlotte Knollys have
been on a visit to us ; also Lady Geraldine Somerset
for two nights. They are all interested to see our
house.
Uncle George has made me a present of one of
the horses the Sultan sent him.
Darmstadt, October loth.
I can't find words to say how sorry I am that dear
sweet Arthur should have the small-pox! and that
you should have this great anxiety and worry. God
grant that the dear boy may get well over it, and
that his dear handsome face be not marked !
Where in the world could he have caught it ? The
Major kindly telegraphs daily, and you can fancy, far
away, how anxious one is. I shall be very anxious
to get a letter with accounts, for I think constantly
of him, and of you. My parents-in-law wish me to
tell you how they share your anxiety, and how they
wish soon to hear of dear Arthur's convalescence ;
of course my Louis likewise, for he shares all my feel-
ings, being a real brother towards my GcscJiwistcr
[brothers and sisters].
We both paid the King of Prussia our respects at
Frankfort this morning, principally to tell him that
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 93
Bertie had been so crrleved at the ill success of his
intended visit, asjthe Oueen beesfed us to do.
I am better to-day, but Ella and Irene can't shake
off their colds, and poor Ella is altogether unwell.
Victoria is all right.
We are going on the i8th to Baden for Fritz's
birthday.
Darmstadt, October 14th.
How glad I am to see by your letter that darling
Arthur is going oh so very well. One can't be too
thankful ; and it is a good thing over, and will spare
one's being anxious about him on other occasions.
Bertie and Alix have been here since Saturday
afternoon, and leave to-morrow. They go straight
to Antwerp, and Bertie is going back to Brussels to
see the cousins.
The visit of the King went off very well, and Alix
was pleased with the kindness and civility of the
King. I hear that the meeting was satisfactory to
both parties, which I am heartily glad of Bearing
ill-will is always a mistake, besides its not being
ricrht.
Dear Alix walked up our staircase with two sticks,
of course very slowly, but she is improving wonder-
fully, though her knee is quite stiff.
Poor Jager is a litde better, and the momentary
danger is past, though I fear he cannot ultimately
recover. How hard for poor Katrinchen ! There
is much sorrow in the world, and how often such a
share falls to the best and gentlest ! I, of course, go
to see him daily, but it always goes to my very heart
to see that attached and faithful creature dying slowly
away. How is Brown's sister ?
We hope that Countess Bllicher will return here
with Vicky and me from Baden for a few days, as it
is an age since Vicky has seen her.
194 PJilNCESS ALICE.
Dear Alix is writing in my room at this moment,
and is so dear and sweet. She is a most lovable
creature.
Darmstadt, October 23d.
I have had the pleasure of having Augusta and
the Dean [Stanley] here since yesterday, but they
leave ao-ain this morninsf.
The King of Prussia is here to-day, and there is a
large dinner for him in the Schloss, and he is kind
enough to come and see me afterward.
The accounts of poor dear Aunt Feodore are so
sad, and I hear she does not look well, and is so low
about her eyes and being unable to see you again
after so long a separation. She seems alone and
lonely, with old age and sickness coming over her.
If I had been well, I should have gone to see her.
I am much better these last days. I can breathe
much better, but the dreadfully swelled ankles and
wrists remain as bad as before, and cause great dis-
comfort and even pain. I never had this before.
ScHWEiNSBERG, October 24th,
Dear Vicky and Fritz left us yesterday morning.
It is such a pleasure to me to think that they, like
Bertie and Alix, know my house, and that they have
lodged under our roof. When will you, darling
Mama ? If ever again you go abroad and wish to
rest on your way, all in the world we have is at your
disposal. How happy that would make us !
We ourselves left at four yesterday afternoon, re-
maininor t;he niofht at MarburQf, and leavinof at a
quarter to five in the morning, so that Louis could
reach Alsfeld in time to join the shooting-party.
We parted at Kirchhain, and I came here with
Christa to her mother's house — so sad and changed
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 95
since three years ago. It is most kind of them to
have taken me up here, and the bracing air will do
me good. They tnow that I can understand what a
house of mourning is, and that I don't want to amuse
myself.
Ella cried on parting with us yesterday, and
wanted to get into the train with us.
Victoria is going to have a little lesson every
other day, when I go back, from Mr. Geyer, who
taught poor Willem, and who teaches little girls par-
ticularly well. She must begin in my room, as it is
better not to have lessons in the nursery, I think.
Vicky and I spoke much together about education
and taking a governess. I thought to wait a year
(for financial reasons), and I think it time enough
then — do not vou ?
Darmstadt, October 26th.
* * * We arrived late at Baden, and Vicky
and Fritz, who had had two long days' journey,
were very tired ; but we had to go to dress at once,
to go to a soiree at Madame Viardot's, which lasted
till midnig-ht, and at which the Kins!" and Oueen were
present. Her daughters and scholars sang a little
operetta she had composed, which was very pretty,
I hope the inauguration of the statue went off as
well as the weather would permit.
November 15th.
* '=' * It is so good and wholesome not always
to be one's own master, and to have to suit one's
self to the wish of others, and, above all, to that of
one's mother and sovereign. feels it as such,
and often told me so, regretting how seldom such
was the case.
The Moriers are often with us, and we value them
much ; they are such pleasant companions, and such
excellent, clever people.
196 PRINCESS ALICE.
Darmstadt, December 6th.
* * * The visit to Claremont must have been
quite pecuhar for you ; and I can fancy it bringing-
back to your mind the recollections of your child-
hood. In spring it must be a lovely place, and, with
gayer papers on the walls, and a little modern com-
fort, the house must likewise be very pleasant. Ella,
who was breakfasting with me just now, saw me dip
my Bretzcl in my coffee, and said : " Oh, Mama, you
must not ! Do you allow yourself to do that ? " be-
cause I don't allow her to do it. She is too funny,
and by no means quite easy to manage — a great con-
trast to Victoria, who is a very tractable child. Ella
has a wonderful talent for sewing, and, when she
keeps quiet a little while, sews quite alone and
without mistakes. She is making something for you
for Christmas, which she is quite excited about. Vic-
toria's little afternoon lesson answers admirably, and
is the happiest time of the day for her. She can
read words already.
We have snow and ice, and no sunshine since
some time, and it is not invitinof to take the dull
walks in the town. But I make a rule to go out
twice a day, and keep nearly the same hours as at
home.
The account of your visit to Lady Palmerston and
to her daughter is most touching. It is so inexpres-
sibly sad for grandmother and mother, for it is un-
natural for parents to survive their children, and
that makes the grief a so peculiar one, and very hard
to bear.
December 9th.
* * * During the long winter days, when Louis
is away sometimes four times in the week from six in
the morninof till six in the evening, and then when he
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 1 97
returns from his shooting has his work to do, I feel
lonely. I am often for several hours consecutively
quite by myself ; and for my meals and walks only
a lady, as she is the only person in the house besides
ourselves. It is durinof these hours, when one can-
not always be reading or at work, that 1 should wish
to have some one to go to, or to come to me to sit
and speak with ; but such is not the case, and it is
this I reofret — accustomed as I was to a house full
of people, with brothers and sisters, and above all,
the chance of being near you. I always feel how
willingly I would spend some of those hours with or
near you — and the sea ever lies between us ! When
Louis is at home and free — for in the morning I
don't see him — then I have all that this world can
give me, for I am indeed never happier than at his
dear side ; and time only increases our affection, and
binds us closer to each other.
We have deep snow now and sledging the last
two days.
December 12th,
Before going to rest, I take up my pen to write a
few loving words that they may reach you on the
morning of the 14th. The sound of that date brings
with it that sad and dreary recollection which, for
you, my poor dear Mama, and for us, time cannot
alter. As long as our lives last, this time of year
must fill us with sad and earnest feelings, and revive
the pain of that bitter parting.
I ought not to dwell on those hours now, for it is
wrong to open those wounds afresh, which God in
His mercy finds little ways and means to heal and
soothe the pain of.
Dear darling Papa is, and ever will be immortal.
The good he has done ; the great ideas he has
198 PRINCESS ALICE,
promuli^ated in the world ; the noble and unselfish
example he has given, will live on, as I am sure he
must ever do, as one of the best, purest, most God-
like men that have come down into this world. His
example will, and does, stimulate others to higher
and purer aims ; and I am convinced that darling
Papa did not live in vain. His great mission was
done ; and what has remained undone he has placed
in your dear hands, who will know best how to
achieve his great w^orks of love and justice. I shall
think much, very much, of you on the 14th, and
you will be more in my prayers than ever. Think
also a little of your most devoted child I
Darmstadt, Christmas Day.
We missed poor Willem so much in arranging all
the things ; and poor Jager's illness was also sad.
We gave him a tree in his room. He looks like a
shadow, and his voice is quite hoarse.
To two hospitals, the military and the town one, I
took presents yesterday, and saw many a scene of
suffering and grief. My children are going to give
a certain number of poor children a Bcschccrung
on New Year's Day. It is so good to teach them
early to be generous and kind to the poor. They
even wish to give some of their own things, and
such as are not broken.
Your many generous presents will find their use
at once, and the Christmas pie, etc., be shared by all
the family. The remembrances of those bright
happy Christmases at Windsor are constantly before
me. None will ever be aijain what those were,
without you, dear Papa, and dear kind Grandmama.
Darmstadt, December 27th.
* * * I am sure you will have felt under
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 1 99
many a circumstance in life, that if any momentary
feeling- was upon ^ou, and you were writing to some
one near and dear, it did you good to put down
those feelings on paper, and that, even in the act of
doing so, when the words were barely written, the
feeling had begun to die away, and the intercourse
had done you good.
1868.
Although the winter season brought many social
duties with it, the Princess' active personal attention
to all those good works and institutions which she
had called into existence never flagged. No subject
of interest or importance escaped her, and her time
was always fully occupied. In April she met the
Crown Prince at Gotha, where Prince Louis also
came, on his return from Munich, to fetch her. She
spent the months of June and July in England with
her three little girls, either at Osborne, Windsor, or
in London. The return journey to Darmstadt was
made by water as far as Mayence. The autumn
was spent at Kranichstein, in the neighborhood
of which the manoeuvres of the Hessian division
took place, at some of which the Princess was
present.
On the 25th of November, to the great joy of the
parents and the country, a son and heir was born —
" a splendid boy." At his christening, on the 28th
of December, he received, at the special desire
of the Grand Duke, the names Ernst Ludwicr — which
200 FJilNCESS ALICE.
had been borne by so many of the old Landgraves
of Hesse. The sponsors were the Queen of Eng-
land and the Kinsf of Prussia.
Darmstadt, January 24th.
% To-nioht I am croinof to act with two
Other persons in our dining-room a pretty little piece
called " Am Klavier," but I lear I shall be very nervous,
and consequently act badly, which would be too tire-
some.
I have never tried to act in any thing since " Roth-
kappchen."
February 14th,
What a fright the news of dear Leopold's danger-
ous attack has oriven us ! Mr. Sahl's letter to
Becker arrived yesterday afternoon containing the
bad news, and he spoke of so liHle hope, that I was
so upset and so dreadfully distressed for the dear
darling, for you, poor Mama, and for us all, that I
am quite unwell still to-day.
When your telegram came to-day, and Louise's
letter, I was so relieved and only pray and hope that
the improvement may continue. May God spare
that young bright and gifted life, to be a comfort and
support to you for many a year to come !
Had I only had a telegram ! for, the letter being
two days old, until your telegram came I passed six
such agonizing hours ! Away irom home, every
news of illness or sorrow there is so difficult to bear
— when one can share all the anxiety and trouble
only 171 tJiougJU.
The day passes so slowly without news, and I am
always looking toward the door to see if a telegram
is coming. Please let me hear regularly till he
is quite safe ; I do love the dear boy, as I do all my
brothers and sisters, so tenderly !
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 20I
How I wish you had been spared this new
anxiety ! Those two days must have been dread-
ful ! ^
Darling Mama, how I wish I were with you !
God grant that in future you may send us only good
news.
Louis and my parents-in-law send their respectful
love and the expression of their warmest sympathy,
in which the other members of the family join.
February 2d.
How glad and truly thankful I am, that the Al-
mighty has saved our darling Leopold and spared
him to you and to us all ! For the second or even
third time that life has been given again, when all
feared that it must leave us ! A mother's heart
must feel this so much more than any other one's,
and dear Leopold, through having caused you all his
life so much anxiety, must be inexpressibly dear to
you, and such an object to watch over and take care
of Indeed from the depth of my heart I thank God
with you for having so mercifully spared dear Leo,
and watched over him when death seemed so near!
You will feel deeply now the great joy of seeing
a convalescence after the great danger, and I know,
through a thousand little things, how your loving
and considerate heart will find pleasure and consola-
tion in cheering your patient.
That for the future you must ever be so anxious is
a dreadful trial, but it is to be hoped that Leo will
yet outgrow this strange illness. I am sure good
Archie '" takes great care of him, and by this time
he will have gathered plenty of experience to be a
good nurse.
* Archibald Brown, his valet, younger brother of the Queen's personal at-
tendant.
202 PRIA^CESS ALICE.
Baby is better, but her poor head and face are
perfectly covered with spots, and she was in despair
with the smarting and itching, and of course rubbed
herself quite sore. Ella has it slightly since this
morning.
Darmstadt, February 13th.
% ::: ^ First let me wish you joy for the birth
of this new grandson, * born on your dear wedding-
day. I thought of you on the morning of the loth,
and meant to telegraph, but those dreadful neuralgic
pains came on before I had time to look about me,
and really laid me prostrate for the whole day, as
they lasted so very long. I have never felt so un-
well, or suffered so much in my life, and this
moment, sitting up in Louis' room, I feel more
weak than I have ever felt on first getting up after
my confinements. Quinine has kept me free from
pain to-day, and I hope will do so to-morrow. I
have been in bed a week and touched absolutely
nothing all the time. Yesterday evening, as through-
out the day, I had had (but much more slightly) a
return of these agonizing attacks, which seized my
left eye, ear, and the whole left side of my head and
nose. I got up and sat in Louis' room ; I could
only bear it for two hours, and all but fainted before I
reached my bed. If I can get strength, and have
no return of pain, I hope to go out after to-morrow.
I could not see the children or any one during this
week, and always had my eyes closed, first from
pain, and then from exhaustion when the pain left
me. I really thought I should go out of my mind,
and you know I can stand a tolerable amount of
pain.
* Prince Waldemar of Prussia, fourth son of the Crown Prince and Prin-
cess. He died of diphtheria on the 27th of March, 1879.
A T HOME AiVD A T WORK. 203
February 17th.
* '^ * I am so distressed that you remained
so long without*" news. I was really for a whole
week quite incapable of any idea about any thing,
and had mostly my eyes shut, and was constantly
alone, as I could not bear any one in the room.
General Plonsky, the Corps Commandant from
Cassel, came here unexpectedly, and Louis, being
under his command, was so taken up during those
days, besides an immense deal of military business,
that I never saw him more than a few minutes in the
morninor; and durinsf his free time in the afternoon
he sat, like the best nurse in the world, near my bed
in the dark room, putting wet rags on my head and
trying by every possible means to alleviate my pains.
He was touching in the great care he took of me.
Louis and Harriet did all for me, and I could bear
no one else about me. You see, poor Louis had
no time to write, and he always thought that I
should be well the next day and write myself.
Darmstadt, February 24th.
To my and, I fear, dear Vicky's great disappoint-
ment, Dr. Weber won't let me go to Berlin, and
wants me to cfo to Wiesbaden for a cold-water cure
instead. The latter will be intensely dull, as I shall
be there for four weeks all alone ; but I believe it
will be very beneficial, as with every year I seem to
get more rheumatic, which at my age is of course
not good.
We shall hope to be able to come to Windsor,
middle of June, as you desire. The exact time you
will kindly let us know later.
Darmstadt, March 9th.
* * * Louis left yesterday morning for Mu-
204 PRINCESS ALICE.
nich. It is a twelve hours' journey. There is a
procession on foot at the funeral, going- to the church
through the town, which will last about two hours,
and then a very long ceremony in the large, cold
Basilica.*
Darmstadt, March 14th,
I send you a few lines to-day for the i6th, the an-
niversary of the first great sorrow which broke in
upon your happy life. How well do I recollect how
I accompanied you and dear Papa down to Frogmore
that night, our dinner in the flower room, the dread-
ful watching in the corridor, and then the so painful
end ! Darling Papa looked so pale, so deeply dis-
tressed, and was so full of tender sympathy for you.
He told me to go to you and comfort you, and was
so full of love and commiseration as I have never
seen any man before or after. Dear, sweet Papa!
that in that same year we should live together
through such another heart-rending scene again, and
he not there to comfort or support you, poor Mama!
It sometimes, even at this distance of time, seems
nearly impossible that we should have lived through
such times, and yet be alive and resigned.
God's mercy is indeed great; for He sends a balm
to soothe and heal the bruised and faithful heart, and
to teach one to accommodate one's self to one's sor-
row, so as to know how to bear it!
Darmstadt, April 2d.
* * * Louis is in a most unpleasant crisis with
the Ministry and the Grand Duke. I don't know
how it will end.
Darmstadt, April 5th.
Only two words to-day, as my heart is so full of
* At the funeral of King Louis I., who had died at Nice on the 29th of
February,
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 205
love and gratitude to you who took such care of me
this day five years ago, who heard Victoria's first cry,
and were such a'comfort and help to us both. All
these recollections make Victoria doubly dear to us,
and, as in this world one never knows what will hap-
pen, I hope that you will always watch over our
dear child, and let her be as dear to you as though
she had been one of us.
We have spent the day very sadly and quietly
toofether. Louis' affairs have taken such a turn that
he has been obliofed to tender the Grand Duke his
resignation, as he does not consider it compatible
with his honor to remain, under existing circum-
stances. He has made a great sacrifice to his duty
and honor, but doing one's duty brings the reward
with it of a clear conscience.
April 3d.
* * * The Kinof of Prussia has sent General
von Bonin here to speak seriously with the Grand
Duke, and prove to him through papers, etc., that he
has not kept his word, and that he has been very
badly advised, and that Louis was quite in the right.
The result has been that the poor Grand Duke is
scandalized at the state of affairs, and that he really
seems to have been more in the dark than was sup-
posed. He gives Louis the command again, sends
away the whole Krico^sministeriunt [War Depart-
ment], to be reorganized more simply, and with
other people, according to Louis' proposals ; and so
all military affairs will be in order, and Louis have
much greater power to carry out all that has to be
done.
We are so pleased at all having turned out thus
far well, and know that you will share our feclintrs.
T • ...
Louis gets more work and a great responsibility ;
206 PJ^INCESS ALICE.
but he has proved himself so capable in every re-
spect, so active and hard-working, that I think and
trust he will overcome all difficulties.
I go alone to Gotha, and Louis will follow as soon
as he can, so as to spend my birthday there.
I am so distressed at dear, good Sir James [Clark's]
illness. I hope and trust that this precious old friend
will still be spared for a few years at least.
Gotha, April 25th.
* * * It is now eleven years since I spent my
birthday with dear Vicky, and she has been so dear
and kind, and dear Aunt and Uncle likewise. We
spend the day quite quietly together, and the bad
weather prevents any expeditions.
After to-morrow we go home.
Darmstadt, May 4th.
Accept my best thanks for your last letter written
on dear Arthur's birthday. The playing of the band
I am sure gave him pleasure ; but it would be too
painful for all ever to have it again on the terrace as
formerly. There are certain tunes which that Ma-
rine Band used to play, which, when I have chanced
to hear them elsewhere, have quite upset me, so
powerful does the recollection of those so very happy
birthdays at Osborne remain upon me ! Those
happy, happy days touch me even to tears when I
think of them. What a joyous childhood we had,
and how greatly it was enhanced by dear, sweet
Papa, and by all your great kindness to us !
I try to copy as much as lies in my power all
these things for our children, that they may have an
idea, when I speak to them of it, of what a happy
home ours was.
I do feel so much for dear Beatrice and the other
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 20/
younger ones, who had so much less of it than we
had!
»•
Darmstadt, May nth.
For your sake I am sorry that my condition should
cause you anxiety, for you have enough of that, God
knows. But I am so well this time that I hope and
trust all may go well, though one is never sure. It
is this conviction which I always have, and which
makes me serious and thoughtful, as who can know
whether with the termination of this time my life
may not also terminate ?
This is also one of the reasons why I long so very
much to see you, my own precious Mama, this sum-
mer, for I cling to you with a love and gratitude, the
depth of which I know I can never find words or
means to express. After a year's absence I wish
so intensely to behold your dear, sweet, loving face
again, and to press my lips on your clear hands. The
older I grow the more I value and appreciate that
mother's love which is unique in the world ; and
having, since darling Papa's death, only you, the love
to my parents and to adored Papa's memory is all
centred in y 02c.
Louis has leave from the iith of June to the
I ith of Aucrust.
Uncle Ernest is coming here to-day for the day,
from Frankfort, where he has been to a cattle-show.
Uncle Adalbert is here, so much pleased with having
seen you again, singing the praise of both Lenchcn
and Louise, which of course I joined in, as it is such
a pleasure to hear others admire and appreciate my
dear sisters.
Darmstadt, May 14th.
I know you will be grieved to hear that we all
2o8 PRINCESS ALICE.
have had the grief of losing good, excellent Jager.*
He was, on the whole, better and was out daily, and
he went to bed as usual, when in the middle of the
night he called one of the men, and before they
could come to his assistance he expired, having
broken a blood-vessel. Poor Katrinchen's despair
and grief were quite heart-rending, when we went
together to see our true and valued servant for the
last time. I was so upset by the whole, that it was
some days before I got over it. We made wreaths
to put on his coffin, which was covered with flowers
sent from all sides, and we both were at the door
with our servants when he was carried out, and tried
to console the poor, unfortunate Braut [bride], who
remained at home.
He was the best servant one could find ; never,
since he has been in our service, had he been found
fault with by any one. He was good, pious, and
gentle, and very intelligent. The death of a good
man, who has fulfilled his allotted duty in this world
as a good Christian ought, touches one deeply, and
we have really mourned for him as for a friend, for
he was one in the true sense of the word. Jager
rests alongside my poor Willem, in the pretty little
cemetery here ; a bit of my heart went with them.
Fritz, on his way back from Italy, spent a few
hours with us, and told us much of his journey. He
heard the strangfest rumors of France intendinof to
break out in sudden hostilities with Germany, and
asked me what you thought of a probability of a war
for this summer. I hope to God, that nothing hor-
rid of that sort will happen ! Do you think it likely,
dear Mama ?
* A footman, much valued by the Prince and Princess.
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 209
Darmstadt, May 19th.
My own darling and most precious Mama, the
warmest and tenclerest wishes that grateful children
can form for a beloved parent we both form for you,
and these lines but weakly express all I would like
to say. May God bless and watch over a life so
precious and so dear to many ! It is now six years
since I spent that dear day near you, but I hope that
some time or other we shall be allowed to do so.
Our joint present is a medal for you with our heads.
We had it made large in oxidized silver on purpose
for you. I myself have braided and embroidered,
with Christa's help (who begged to be allowed to do
something for you), a trimming for a dress, which I
hope you will like and wear. It took a deal of my
time, and my thoughts were so much with you while
I was doing it, that I quite regretted its completion.
We are having a bracelet with our miniatures and
the three children's in it made for you, but unfortu-
nately it is not finished, so we shall bring it and give
it to you ourselves.
Darmstadt, May 29th.
* * '^' The intense heat remains the same, and
becomes daily less endurable here in town — the re-
sult on my unfortunate person being a very painful
rash which itches beyond all description. I hope it
won't increase.
How I envy you at Balmoral ! the very thought of
that air makes me better.
Osborne, August 6th,
I was just sitting down to write to you when Er-
nest came in with your dear letter. Thousand thanks
for it ! These parting lines will be such a dear com-
panion to me on our journey. I can't tell you how
much I felt taking leave of you this time, dear Mama ;
2IO PRINCESS ALICE.
it always is such a wrench to tear myself away from
you and my home again. Where I have so, oh, so
much to be thankful and grateful to you for, I always
fear that I can never express my thanks as warmly
as I feel them, which I do indeed from the. bottom of
my heart. God bless you, darling- Mama, for all
your love and kindness ; and from the depth of my
heart do I pray that nothing may cause you such
anxiety and sorrow again as you have had to bear of
late. * * ^•
When I left you at the pier the return to the
empty house was so sad ! It felt quite strange, and
by no means pleasant, to be here without you and all
the others. We lunched alone with Victoria, and
dined in the hot dining-room with the ladies and
gentlemen, sitting on the terrace afterward.
It has rained all the morning, and is most oppres-
sive. As it is so foggy, we have to leave at two ;
but there is no wind, and I hope the sea will be quite
smooth. I am sure you must feel lonely and de-
pressed on this journey, poor Mama ; but the change
of scene and beautiful nature enjoyed in rest and
quiet must surely do you good.
Kranichstein, August loth.
* * * We left Osborne at two on Thursday in
rain and wind. The children and I were dreadfully
sick an hour after starting, but the passage got
smoother later ; and, though I was very wretched in
every way, I was not sick again. The same sort of
weather on the Alberta next morning, but it cleared
up later. The Rhine steamer was very comfortable,
and Doctor Minter accompanied us to Dordrecht.
The last afternoon and night on board I suffered
dreadfully. Since I arrived here, I am better, but
not right yet. Had it not been for your great kind-
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 211
ness in giving iis the ship, I am sure I should not
have got home. right. This awful heat adds to my
feelinofs of fatiofue and discomfort.
Kranichstein, August nth.
I have just received your letter, from Lucerne, and
hasten to thank you for it.
How glad I am that you admire the beautiful
scenery, and that I know it, and can share your ad-
miration and enjoyment of it in thought with you!
It is most lovely. The splendid forms, and the color
of the lake, are two things that we don't know in
dear Scotland, and which are so peculiar to Swiss
scenery.
Louis is in town from ei^ht till our two o'clock
dinner, and has a great deal to do.
For your sake as for my own I long for a respite
from this unbearable heat, which is so weakening
and trying.
Kranichstein, August i6th.
* * * How satisfactory the accounts of dear
good Arthur are ! From the depth of my heart do
I congratulate you on all that Colonel Elphinstone
says about his character, for with a real moral foun-
dation, and a strict sense of duty and of what is right
and wrong, he will have a power to combat the
temptations of the world and those within himself.
I am sure that he will grow up to be a pride and
pleasure to you, and an honor to his country.
Brown must have been cflad to be allowed
to continue wearing his kilt, and, as it is a national
dress, it is far more natural that he should give it up
nowhere. I am sure that he and Annie * must ad-
mire the place.
* Mrs. McDonald, the Queen's first wardrobe-maid.
212 PRINCESS ALICE.
Kranichstein, August 26th.
I have just received your dear letter, and am so
pleased to hear that you enjoyed your excursion, and
that you have now seen the sort of wild scenery
high up in the mountains, which I think so beautiful
and grand in Switzerland. For all admirers of that
style of scenery there is nothing to be compared to
Switzerland.
Since it became cool a^-ain I have had neuralgia
in my head, and I have had a dreadful sty, which had
to be cut open, and made me quite faint and sick for
the whole day. In spite of it I went to the station
here, with a thick veil on, to see the Russian relations
pass two days ago. The Emperor looks even more
altered and worn since last year, and is suddenly
grown so old.
Kranichstein, September 4th.
* * * How too delightful your expeditions
must have been ! I do rejoice that, through the
change of weather, you should have been able to see
and enjoy all that glorious scenery. Without your
good ponies and Brown, etc., you would have felt
how difficult such ascents are for common mortals,
particularly when the horses slip, and finally sit
down. I am sure all this will have done you good ;
seeing such totally new beautiful scenery does re-
fresh so immensely, and the air and exertion — both
of which you seem to bear so well now — will do
your health good.
Yesterday we both were two hours at Jugenheim.
To-day the two little cousins are coming to see
my children.
Louis' business is increasing daily, and until the
19th, manoeuvres, inspections, etc., won't be over.
He will even have to be away on his birthday, which
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 213
is a great bore. There is a great review for the
Erhperor on Saturday.
Sepetmber 15th.
* , •jf * Lil^e a foolish friorhtened creature as I
o
am, I have worried myself so much about this sud-
den talk of war and threatening in all the French
papers, saying that October, November, or there-
abouts would be a good time to begin. Do tell me,
if you think there is the least reasonable apprehen-
sion for any thing of that sort this year. I have such
confidence in your opinion, and you can imagine
how in my present condition I must tremble before
a recurrence of all I went throuoh in 1866 !
I am so grieved that you should be so unwell on
the journey home. Dear beautiful Scotland will do
you good. I envy your going there, and wish I
could be with you, for I am so fond of it. Remem-
ber me to all the good people.
Darmstadt, October 2Sth.
* * * The Oueen of Prussia is coming to
lunch with us on Saturday on her way to Coblenz.
I have a cold these last days, and Victoria is still
confined to the house with her swelled neck. She
had quite lost her appetite, and I tried some porridge
for her, which she enjoys, and I hope it will fatten
her up a little, for she is so thin and pale. Would
you please order a small barrel of oatmeal to be
sent to me ? Dr. Weber thinks it would be very
good for Victoria, and one cannot get it here.
Darmstadt, November 20th.
It is with the greatest interest that I read about the
Mausoleum,''' as I was very anxious to know whether
all would be finished. Having been present before
* The Royal Mausoleum at Frogmore.
214 PRINCESS ALICE.
at all the Important steps in the progress of this un-
dertaking, 1 feel very sorry to be absent at the last,
and I shall be very impatient to see it all again.
Winter has quite set in now here, and when there
is no wind the cold is very pleasant.
Darmstadt, December 4th.
Thousand thanks for all your dear kind wishes,
for your first letter to me, for the one to Louis, and
finally for the eatables ! I can't tell you how touched,
how pleased we both are at the kind interest all at
home have shown us on this occasion. It has really
enhanced our pleasure at the birth of our little son,
to receive so many marks of sympathy and attach-
ment from those in my dear native home, and in my
present one. My heart is indeed overflowing with
p-ratitude for all God's blessinors.
The time itself was very severe, but my recovery
is up to now the best I have ever made, and I feel
comparatively strong and well.
The girls are delighted with their brother, though
Victoria was sorry it was not a sister. Darling
Louis was too overcome and taken up with me at
first to be half pleased enough. Baby is to be called
by Louis' Uncle Louis' wish, Ernst Ludivig, after a
former Landgrave ; '^ then we would like you to give
the name Albert ; Charles, after my father-in-law ;
and William, after the King of Prussia, whom we
mean to ask to be godfather. The christening is
most likely to be on the 28th, or thereabout.
I am on my sofa in my sitting-room with all your
dear photos, etc., around me, and your pretty quilt
over me.
December 12th.
* * ''■* Every new event in my life renews
* Who died on the 8th of November, 1825.
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 2 1 5
the grief for dear Papa's loss, and the deep regret
that he was not here to know of all, to ask advice
from, to share jGy and grief with, for he was such a
tender father, and would have been such a loving
grandfather.
You, darling Mama, fill his place with your own,
and may God's support never leave you, and ever
enable you to continue fulfilling the many duties
toward State and family ! The love of your children
and people encircles you.
Darmstadt, December i8th.
* * ■'' The presents you intend giving baby
will delight us, and in later years I can tell him all
about his Grandpapa, and how I wish and pray he
may turn out in any way like him, and try and aim
to become so.
I think it would be best, perhaps, if you asked my
mother-in-law to represent you and hold baby. I
think it would pain her, should any one else do it,
and I will ask her in your name, if you will kindly
telegraph me your approval.
I am sorry Arthur cannot come, it would have
given us such pleasure had it been possible.
The greater part of baby's monthly gowns have
been put away, as from the beginning they were too
small. He is so very big.
Christmas Day.
* * * Louis thanks you thousand times, as
we do, for the charming presents for the children.
They showed them to every one, shouting: " This is
from my dear English Grandmama" ; and Ella, who is
always sentimental, added: "She is so very good,
my Grandmama." Irene could not be parted from
the doll you gave her, nor Victoria from hers. Baby
was brought down, and was wide awake the whole
2l6 PRINCESS ALICE.
time, looking about with his little bright eyes like a
much older child.
We spent a very happy Christmas eve, surrounded
by the dear children and our kind relations.
Darmstadt, December 29th.
* * * Prince Hohenzollern with three eentle-
men were sent by the King, and the former dined
with us after the ceremony. All went off so well,
and baby, who is in every way like a child of
two months, looked about him quite wisely, and
was much admired by all who saw him.
I am so sorry that you have never seen my babies
since Victoria, for I know you would admire them,
they look so mottled and healthy. Weather
permitting, baby is to be photographed to-mor-
row.
1869.
The winter passed quickly and quietly amidst
many occupations.
In May the Prince and Princess, with their chil-
dren, went on a visit to the Crown Prince and
Princess of Prussia at Potsdam, where they spent
four happy weeks. Whilst they were there, the
Viceroy of Egypt paid a visit to Berlin. Later in
the summer they went to Silesia, and spent some
time at Fischbach, a property belonging to Princess
Charles of Hesse, whose sister, the Queen of
Bavaria, and brother. Prince Adalbert of Prussia,
joined them there. During their stay, the Prince
and Princess made excursions into the neighboring
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 21/
mountains, and ascended the Schneekoppe ; and the
Prince and his brothers visited the battlefield of
Konitrssratz. On the way back to Darmstadt the'v
visited Dresden, to see the Kinof and Oueen
Saxony at their country seat, Pillnitz, an h>
drive from Dresden.
In August, the King of Prussia for the first timci
personally inspected the Hessian troops. Thtt
Prince commanded the troops at the manoeuvres
in Upper Hesse, at the conclusion of which they
paraded before the King of Prussia at Bergen.
Some weeks later, the Prince and Princess of
Wales and their family paid Prince and Princess
Louis a visit at Kranichstein. The opening of the
Idiot Asylum built by the Princess took place on the
1 5th of October in her presence and that of the
Prince. It had been arransred that Prince Louis
should accompany the Crown Prince of Prussia on
his journey to the East, on the occasion of the open-
ing of the Suez Canal. He started on the 9th
of October for Venice. The two Princes visited
Corfu, Athens, and Constantinople, and were received
with every possible honor in the capitals of Greece
and Turkey. They went on to Jaffa, and thence to
Jerusalem, Hebron, Damascus, and Baalbec, and
finally, on the i5th of November, they arrived at
Port Said, where they met a large number of other
Princes. A journey up the Nile as far as the first
and second cataracts brought their travels to an end.
They returned home by way of Naples, and through
Italy.
21 8 PJ?INCESS ALICE.
During the absence of the two Princes, the Crown
Princess of Prussia and Princess AHce, with her
h'ttle son, went to Cannes. Whilst there, the
Princess devoted herself entirely to the care of her
child. Being together with her sister, and in that
sunny country, made up somewhat for the long sep-
aration from her husband. The Princes joined the
two Princesses at Cannes shortly before Christmas.
The new year saw them all at home again.
Darmstadt, January 8th.
H: :i: :■: Dear charming Lady Frances [Baillie]
is on a visit with us, and I enjoy having her so much.
We talk of old times at Frogmore, and so many
pleasant recollections,
I am glad that you like baby's photograph, though
it does not do him justice. He is a pretty baby on
the whole, and has a beautiful skin, very large eyes,
and pretty mouth and chin ; but his nose is not very
pretty, as it is so short at present. He is a dear
good child, and, though immensely lively, does not
give much trouble. He is a great source of happi-
ness to us, and I trust will continue so.
Darmstadt, January 13th.
* » * jg j^Q(- j-j-jg death of Leopold's son shock-
ins: ? * Such sufferinof, such 9. strues^le for months
between life and death ; and for the poor parents to
have in the end to relinquish their child, their only
son! I think it heart-rending. May the Almighty
continue to supp.ort them even now, as he did these
many months I J cannot say how much and truly I
feel for them both. This world is full of trials, and
some seem to be called upon to suffer and give up so
* J^e oply son aod heir of the King of the Belgians.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 2ig
mirch. Faith and resiornation alone can save those
hearts from breaking:, when the burden must be
so heavy.
A few days ago at two o'clock we had another
shock [of earthquake], and it seemed as if the house
rocked ; at the same time the unearthly noise.
I think it uncommonly unpleasant, particularly this
repetition.
January 30th.
Our thoughts and prayers are so much with you
and dear Leopold on this day [his Confirmation].
May the Almighty bless and protect that precious
boy, and give him health and strength to continue a
life so well begun and so full of promise !
It seems to me quite incredible, the eighth of us
should already be old enough to take this step in life,
and to have his childhood in fact behind him. Dear
Papa's blessing surely rests on him, and his spirit is
near you as you stand there alone by the side of his
child, about whom he always was so anxious.
February 5th.
* * " Beloved Papa's cast arrived a few days
ago, and stands in my bedroom. I think it very
beautiful, and thank you so warmly for having sent
it me.
Poor Orchard, whose leg is very painful and
swelled, is to ero to bed for a week for entire rest of
the limb. You can imagine how inconvenient this
is, as we have only Emma and Kathrinchen for the
others and babv. You will be amused when I tell
you that old Amelung is coming to sleep with baby,
and take charge of him ; but she is too old and out
of practice to be able to wash and dress him morning
and evening besides, so I do that, and it is of course
a great assistance to all, my being able to do it, and
220 PRINCESS ALICE.
I don't mind the trouble. Of a morning, as Louis
is usually out riding or at his office, I take Victoria
and Ella out, who are very good little girls and
very amusing.
Darmstadt, March 8th.
* * * We shall go to Potsdam the first week
in May, and from there go for a week or ten days to
Fischbach. My mother-in-law, Tante Mariechen,
and Uncle Adalbert, are all going to spend my
mother-in-law's birthday there.
The Moriers are going to England in the first
days of April, and I hope that you will see them.
We see a good deal of them, and like them both
much. He is wonderfully clever and learned, and
-takes interest in every thing ; and she is very
agreeable, and a most satisfied, amiable disposition
— always contented and amused.
March 19th.
I thought of you so much on the i6th. From that
day dated the commencement of so much grief and
sorrow; yet in those days you had one, darling
Mama, whose first thought and deepest was to com-
fort and help you, and I saw and understood only
then how he watched over you, and how and every-
where he sought to ward off all that was painful and
strange from you, and took all that pain alone for
himself for your sake ! I see his dear face — so
pale, and so full of tears, when he led me to you
early that morning after all was over and said,
" Comfort Mama," as if those words were a Vovbe-
deutung [presage] of what was to come. In those
days I think he knew how deep my love was for you,
and that as long as I was left in my home, my first
and only thought should be you and you alone !
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 221
This I held as my hoHest and dearest duty, until I
had to leave you, my beloved Mother, to form a
home and family for myself, and new ties which
were to take up much of my heart and strength.
But that bond of love, though I can no more be
near you, is as strong as ever.
Darmstadt, March 23d,
* * * Yesterday it was very warm, and to-
day it snows ; the weather continues so changeable
and many people are ill. Ella has again had one of
her bad attacks in her throat, but, thank God, it
passed away very soon. Two nights ago she could
not speak — barely breathe — and was so uncomfort-
able, poor child. It makes one so anxious each
time ; but I hope she will outgrow it, when she is
six or seven years old.
Victoria is already now composing a letter for
your birthday. I won't have her helped, because I
should like you to see her own ideas and style — it
is much more amusincf.
March 26th.
* * * We had such an unexpected pleasure
the other day in the visit of good General Seymour,
and I was so pleased to see some one who had seen
you lately, and who could give me news of my
home. He had not been here since he came with
us after our marriage, and was of course interested
in seeing every thing.
April 2d.
* * * The constant anxiety about the chil-
dren is dreadful ; and it is not physical ill one dreads
for them, it is moral : the responsibility for these
little lent souls is great, and, indeed, none can take
it lightly who feel how great and important a parent's
duty is.
t
222 PRINCESS ALICE.
Darmstadt, April 5th.
* * * Thousand thanks for your dear letter,
and for all the tender wishes for our dear child's
birthday! The child born under your roof and
your care is of course your particular one, and later,
if you wish to keep her at any time when we have
been paying" you a visit, we shall gladly leave her.
Victoria is so delighted with what you sent her,
and sends her very warmest thanks and her tender-
est love. She is in great beauty just at present, as
she is grown stouter ; and I look with pleasure on
those two girls when they go out together. They
possess, indeed, all we could wish, and are full of
promise. May the Almighty protect them and
give them a long life, to be of use and a joy to their
fellow-creatures !
April i6th,
* ^' ■^' Rain and wind have at length cooled
the air, for this heat without any shade was too un-
pleasant. Louis left at five this morning to inspect
the orarrison at Friedbero- and Giessen, and then to
go to Alsfeld to shoot Auerhdiine [capercailzies]. He
will return on the 21st or 2 2d probably.
We shall indeed be so pleased, if later you wish
to have any of the granddaughters with you, to
comply with any such wish, for I often think so sadly
for your dear sake, how lonely it must be when one
child after another grows up and leaves home ; and
even if they remain, to have no children in the house
is most dreary. Surely you can never lack to have
some from amongst the many grandchildren ; and
there are none of us, who would not gladly have
our children live under the same roof where we
passed such a happy childhood, with such a loving
Grandmama to take care of them.
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 223
April 25th.
* * * May I only know the way to give my
children as muth pleasure and happiness as you
have ever known to give me !
The dinner of family and suite is here in the
house to-day — or rather I should call it a luncheon,
as it is at two o'clock.
The Irish Church question, I quite feel with you,
will neither be solved nor settled in this way ; and
instead of doine somethinof which would brinof the
Catholics more under the authority of the State,
they will, I fear, be the more powerful. It seems to
me that one injustice (with regard to the Protestants)
is to be put in the place of a former one, instead of
doing justice to both, which would not have been
an impossibility through some well-considered set-
tlement and eivinof in on both sides. Such a cha7i<re-
me7tt requires so much thought and wisdom, and,
above all, impartiality.
May 3d.
* * * My children are, on the whole, very
well behaved and obedient, and, save by fits and
starts, which don't last long, very manageable. I try
to be very just and consistent in all things toward
them, but it is sometimes a great trial of patience, I
own. They are so forward, clever, and spirited, that
the least spoiling would do them great harm.
How glad I am that the dear Countess [Bliicher]
is with you again ; she is the pleasantest companion
possible, and so dear and loving, and she is devoted
to you and dear Papa's memory as never any one was.
Potsdam, May 25th.
How much we thought of you yesterday, I can't
say ! Lord Augustus Loftus lunched with us three
224 PHLVCESS ALICE.
and the elder children ; and we drank your health,
the band playing " God Save the Queen ! " All our
girls had wreaths of natural flowers in honor of the
day.
Potsdam, June ist.
* * * To-day is regular March weather, and
the palace is cold and draughty.
We were in Berlin yesterday, to visit the Gewerbe-
Museum [Industrial Museum] ; then luncheon at
Lord Augustus Loftus', and from thence to the Vic-
toria bazaar and Victoria Stift, and then home.
It is always so tiring to see things at Berlin ; an
hour's rail there and the same back takes so much
time. Before returning, we paid a short visit to
Baron Stockmar and his wife, who is very pleasing,
and seems to suit him perfectly. They look as if
they had always belonged to each other.
Potsdam, June 13th.
Our time here is soon drawing to a close, much to
my regret ; for the life with dear Vicky — so quiet
and pleasant— reminds me in many things of our
life in England in former happy days, and so much
that we had Vicky has copied for her children. Yet
we both always say to each other, no children were
so happy, and so spoiled with all the enjoyments
and comforts children can wish for, as we were ; and
that we can never (of course, still less I) give our
children all that we had. I am sure dear Papa and
you, if you could ever hear how often, how tenderly,
Vicky and I talk of our most beloved parents, and
how grateful we are for what they did for us, would
in some measure feel repaid for all the trouble we
gave, and all the anxiety we caused. I ever look
back to my childhood and girlhood as the happiest
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 22 5
time of my life. The responsibilities, and often the
want of many a thing, in married life can never give
unalloyed happiness.
We are looking for a governess for the two elder
girls for next year, and a lady with the necessary
knowledge and character, and yet of a certain rank,
is so difficult to find.
Potsdam, June 19th.
Louis went two days ago to Fischbach for his
mother's birthday, and returns to-morrow morning.
Vicky was very low yesterday ; she has been so for
the last week, and she told me much of what an
awful time she went throuofh in 1866, when dear
Siggie [Sigismund] died. The little chapel is very
peaceful and cheerful, and full of flowers. We go
there en passant nearly daily, and it seems to give
dear Vicky pleasure to go there.
Vicky goes on the 7th of July to Norderney.
F15CHBACH SCHLESIEN, July 2d.
We arrived here in this exquisitely-lovely country
two days ago, and were received by our parents-in-
law and Aunt Mariechen, whose guests we are in
the pretty old Castle of Fischbach, surrounded by fine
old trees, with a view on the beautiful Rieseneebiree,
which reminds me a little of Scotland, and also of
Switzerland. The valleys are most lovely and
the numberless wooded hills, before one reaches the
high mountains, are quite beautiful. The trees
are splendid and the country looks very rich and
green.
All the 'people of the village and the neighborhood
came out to see us and our children, and old servants
of Louis' grandparents, who were so delighted and
pleased that I and my children should be here, and
226 PRINCESS ALICE.
that they should have Hved to see the younger
ofeneration.
We are out seeing the beautiful spots nearly all
day long. The weather is fine and not very warm,
so that one can go about comfortably. Yesterday
we went over for tea to Erdmannsdorf. If only dear
Vicky and Fritz were there now ! We must hope
for another year to be there together. The parting
from them, who had made our scjour under their
hospitable roof such a very happy one, was very sad,
and the pouring rain was in accordance with our
feelings. We left them and dear lovely Potsdam
and the pleasant life there with much regret, and
many a blessing do I send back in thought to
its dear inmates.
Yesterday afternoon we were at Schmiedeberg.
We went to see a very interesting carpet-manufac-
tory, worked by hand, and all by girls, and a very
simple process, much like making fringe, which you
used to do and then make footstools of after
Beatrice's birth.
Yesterday our wedding-day — already seven years
ago — made me think so much of Osborne, and
of you, darling Mama, and of all that passed during
that time. It was a quiet wedding in a time of much
sorrow, and I often think how trying it must have
been for you.
Kranichstein, July 21st.
Yesterday after eighteen hours' very hot railway
journey, we arrived here all well. Many thanks for
your letter, which I received at Dresden. It was im-
possible to write, as I had to pay visits and to see
things during those two days.
The Crown Prince and Princess received us at the
station ; the following day we paid our visits. I
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 22/
found Marie* in bed looking very well, and her baby,
tied up in a cushion, seemed a nice child. Her
other children are very pretty ; the eldest girl is like
George, and the little one has a quantity of fair curls,
like Louis of Portugal's boy. In the afternoon
of that day the King and Queen came to see us, and
were very kind. She is very like the Queen Dow-
ager of Prussia, her twin sister, and her other sister.
Queen Marie, is very like her twin sister, Arch-
duchess Sophie. As they are first cousins, and very
fond ones, of my father-in-law, they consider them-
selves of course as our aunts.
I went to see the picture-gallery, which has some
exquisite pictures, though the Sistine Madonna sur-
passes all others, and the famous Holbein, of which
the Dresden gallery has been for long so proud, is
now recognized as a copy, and the one that belongs
to my mother-in-law as the original. We visited the
Grmie Gewobel [the Green Vaults], where the
magnificent jewels and other treasures are preserved,
and the Kingf was kind enough to lead us over the
rest of the castle himself, including his own rooms, in
one of which the life-size pictures of his last four
daughters (all dead) stand, of whom he cannot speak
without tears. How dreadfully he and the poor
Queen must have s'jffered these last years !
Uncle Louis is at Friedberg and intends remain-
ing there all next month, till the manoeuvres are over.
Alice Morier will accompany me.
Kranichstein, July 25th.
Thousand thanks for your kind letter which I
received yesterday, at the same time that the beau-
tiful christening present for Ernest arrived ! Thou-
* Princess George of Saxony, Infanta of Portugal, who died in February,
1884.
228 PRINCESS ALICE.
sand thanks for this most beautiful and precious gift
for our boy, from Louis and from myseh ! We are
so pleased with it ! It is to be exhibited here, and
it will interest and delight all who see it, I am sure.
I have just received a letter from Bertie, announc-
ing his arrival here for the 28th. We shall be greatly
pleased to see them all ; but we have so little room,
and our house in town is all shut up and under
repair, so that we shall have some trouble to make
them comfortable and shall be quite unable to do it
as we should wish. But I trust they will be lenient
and put up with what we can offer.
The heat is very great, though this place is com-
paratively cool.
Kranichstein, July 29th.
Dear Bertie and Alix with their children arrived
at Darmstadt after ten, and we brought them here
by eleven o'clock last night. They are all looking
well, but Bertie has shaved off his beard, which does
not suit him. Dear Alix is unchanged, and cer-
tainly no fatter.
The children are very dear and pretty, but my
boy is as tall as little Louise, and of course much
bigger. I am so delighted to see them all again ; it
is such a great pleasure, as you can well imagine.
The pony you kindly sent us has just arrived, and
to the great delight of all the children, who send
their best thanks. We are all lodged very close
together: Bertie and Alix, our bedroom and my
dressing-room ; we both, my sitting-room, and the
passage-room ; then come the different children.
No gentlemen or ladies are in the house, as it was
utterly impossible.
Kranichstein, August nth,
* * * Victoria has often ridden on Dred, and
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 229
also the other girls, on a Spanish saddle, and he
goes very well. They delight in him. Baby rolls
abotit the room 'anywhere now, and tries to crawl
properly. He calls Papa, and tries no end of things ;
he is very forward, and is now cutting his fifth tooth,
which is all but through.
Friedberg, August 26th.
On this dear day I must send you a few words.
The weather is so beautiful, and the sun so bright,
as it used to be at Osborne in former years. I don't
care for the sun to shine on this day now, as it can't
shine on Him whose day it was. It makes one too
wehimltJiig to think of darling Papa on those happy
birthdays, and it must be more so for you than for
any of us, poor Mama.
Yesterday was Ludwigstag ; all the town deco-
rated with flags, illuminations, etc., and English flags
and arms with the Hessian everywhere.
We started on horseback along the high road at
half-past seven this morning, and did not get off till
^ one. A lovely country and very interesting to see.
To-morrow we shall have a very long march, and
the night Alice Morier, I and William (Louis is un-
decided) will spend at Prince Ysenburg's at Biidin-
gen. The next morning we have to ride off at half-
past five, and a long day back here.
Kranichstein, September nth.
* * •^- What charming expeditions you must
have made in that lovely country ? * What I saw
of it some years ago I admired so intensely. You
can well be proud of all the beauties of the High-
lands, which have so entirely their own stamp, that
* This refers to the Queen's stay at Invertrossachs, and the excursions to
the neighljorhood. These are described in " More Leaves from a Journal
of a Life in the Highlands," pp. nO-147 (London, 1884).
230 PRINCESS ALICE.
no Alpine scenery, however grand, can lessen one's
appreciation for that of Scotland.
The day before yesterday we went to Mayencfe to
see a " Gewerbe-Ausstelhmg'' [Industrial Exhibition]
of the town, which was very good and tastefully
arranged. From there we went to Frankfort to our
palace, for a rendezvous with Aunt Cambridge,
Uncle George, Augusta and Fritz Strelitz. I showed
them the children, and afterwards, when our rela-
tions left, we took our children to the Zoological
Garden, which delighted them.
Many thanks for the grouse, which has just
arrived, the first since two years ago !
Darmstadt, October 3d,
* * * I am very glad that you also approve
of Louis' journey, which I know will be so useful
and interesting for him, though it was not possible
to attain this without parting from each other, which
is, of course, no small trial for us, who are so unac-
customed to being separated. But we never thought
of that when we considered the plan of Louis join- ■*.
ing Fritz, which was my idea, as travelling in new
countries is so good for a man, and Louis may never
find so good a chance again. I am looking forward
very much to seeing Geneva — where we spend a
day — and the south of France, and above all, seeing
the sea again. Fritz passes through here to-morrow.
Louis starts Saturday morning, via Munich, for
Venice, where he will join Fritz next Sunday after-
noon, and spend the following Monday there before
they go to Brindisi. Vicky comes here with her
children on the 12th or 13th, and a suite of twenty-
five people. She goes on with the big boys to
Baden, and I follow with the other children on the
following day. I don't like separating Victoria and
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 23 1
Ella, who like being together ; the three girls will be
so well taken care of at their grandparents'. I have
written down rdles for meals, going out, to bed, to
lessons, etc.; and my mother-in-law, who never
interferes, will see that all is carried out as I wish.
I shall miss them so much, but having one child at
least is a comfort; and baby is beginning to talk,
and is so funny and dear, and so fond of me that he
will be company to me when I am alone. I take no
one but Orchard, Eliza, Beck, and my HaiisJiof-
meister [Steward], who used to be with Lord Gran-
ville.
Darmstadt, October nth.
Yesterday morning at eleven we had the hard
separation from each other, which we both felt very
much. My own dear, tender-hearted Louis was
quite in the state he was in when we parted at
Windsor in i860 after our enofasfement. He does
not like leaving his children, his home, and me, and
really there are but few such husbands and fathers
as he. To possess a heart like his, and to call it my
own, I am ever prouder of and more grateful for
from year to year. Nowadays young men like
Louis are rare enough, for it is considered fine to
neglect one's wife, and for the wife also to have
amusements in which her husband does not share.
We sisters are singularly blessed in our husbands.
Dear kind Countess Bliicher has been here the
last two days — such a happiness to me just now, for
the house feels far too lonely.
Grand Hotel, Cannes, November 5th.
* ''' * I have this instant received another
letter from dear Louis from Constantinople, giving
the accounts of what they did and saw there until
232 PRINCESS ALICE.
the 29th ult., when they left for Jaffa. He seems
dehghted, and very greatly interested with all he
has seen. Louis thought so much of the Sultan's
English visit in 1867, on seeing him again. He
found him more talkative than then. He saw also
several of the suite who were in England. They
went to Scutari, into the Black Sea, and visited all
in and near Constantinople, and on the last day they
visited the Emperor of Austria, who had just arrived.
There is something very funny in hearing of these
Royalties, one after another, all running to the same
places. They must bore the Sultan considerably.
This journey will be of great advantage to dear
Louis, who has never had an opportunity (through
marrying so young) of travelling like others.
This afternoon we went to see poor Princess Wal-
deck. She is still in oreat fjrief at the loss of her
eldest daughter, who suffered so long, and knew she
was dying, and bore her lot with such resignation
and such goodness. She was only fifteen and a half,
I think.
I was very much pleased to see Lord and Lady
Russell again the other day. We hope to be able
to pay them a visit at San Remo, though one can't
go and return in the same day.
The country has looked too lovely to-day ; the
sunset is always most beautiful, for it sets behind the
Esterel Mountains, which lie to the right from this
bay, and have a very lovely jagged form.
I am reading to Vicky a new Life of Napoleon,
by Lanfrey, which is very well and impartially
written.
Cannes, December 14th.
* * * The heavenly blue sea, stretching so
far and wide, is in accordance with one's feelings,
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 233
and the beauties of nature have always something
comfortin"' and soothinof. * * *
The Duke of* Argyll's sister, with his pretty
daughter, Victoria, are here, and we have been twice
to see them, and are distressed that they should be so
anxious about the dear Duchess, of whom the news
to-day is worse. How dreadful, should any thing
happen to her, for her husband and for the many
children !
The Eburys and Lord Dalhousie have likewise
arrived here, but we have not seen them yet.
To-morrow we had intended leaving this, but
during the night poor Vicky had the dreadful fright
of Waldie's being taken ill with the croup. Thank
God, he is better this morning, but our journey will
have to be put off for a few days, so that Vicky can-
not now reach Berlin in time for Christmas. As we
don't wish to spend that day eri route, we have tele-
graphed to our husbands, who reach Naples to-day,
to ask whether they will not join us here, that we
may all spend Christmas together before leaving.
This is all unsettled, and I will telegraph as soon
as every thing is definitely arranged. Rollet * is
here to-day, and spends this day in quiet with us.
Cannes, December 2oih.
We both had the happiness yesterday of receiv-
ing our dear husbands safe and well here after so
long a separation. They had been to Naples and
Pompeii, and Louis went for a day to Rome, so that
he has seen an enormous deal, which is very in-
structive for him, and will be such a pleasure for
him to look back upon in later years.
I am so glad that Louis has had the opportunity
* Madame Rollande, formerly the Princess' French governess.
234 PJ?INCESS ALICE.
of making this journey ; and it seems to have done
his health good also, for he looks very well.
The journey back is so long and difficult for me
to manage alone with Louis — as Vicky's people,
particularly in the nursery, have helped mine — that
I am obliged to wait until the 26th, and to go with
Vicky and Fritz, for they travel slower than I would
do if I went with Louis, who goes back direct day
and night. The doctor would not consent to my
travellinof with Ernie from this warm climate into
the great cold so fast, and during the night, for he is
cutting four back teeth at this moment.
The day before yesterday we visited Lord Dal-
housie and Lady Christian, and found him very
gouty, but in good spirits. Lady Ebury and Oggie*
came to see us this afternoon. Prince and Princess
Frederic of the Netherlands and their daughter have
arrived here. The poor Princess is so weak, and
looks like a shadow.
Hotel du Jura, Dijon, December 28th,
Just as we were leaving Cannes your last
letter reached me, for which many thanks. It was
cold the morning we left Cannes, very cold at
Avignon, where we spent the night, and still colder,
and snow and frost, on reaching this place yesterday
evenin-T. We and the children are all well, and the
poor little ones are very good on the journey, con-
sidering all things. In an hour we leave for Paris,
rest there to-morrow, and then go to Cologne, where
I shall take leave of dear Vicky and Fritz, and go
straight home. I have been so much with dear Vicky
this year, that the thought of parting from her costs
me a great pang, the more so as I do not think it
likely that I shall meet her in this new year.
* Miss Grosvenor, Lady Ebury's daughter.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 235
On New Year's eve I arrange a Christmas-tree
for all my children, and in advance I thank you for
all the presents you have been kind enough to send
us, and. which we shall find at Darmstadt. * * *
1870.
At the beginning of this year, and soon after his
return from the East, Prince Louis was laid up with
scarlet-fever, and, soon after. Princess Victoria and
the little Prince took the same illness. Though the
attack was a sevefe one, ajl made a good recovery,
and no ill effects remained behind. Princess Alice
undertook the nursing entirely herself. During this
time of enforced seclusion from the social world her
intercourse with the famous writer and theologian,
David Friedrich Strauss, was a source to her of great
interest and enjoyment.
The Princess became acquainted with this remark-
able man in the autumn of 1868 at her own particular
desire, and after considerable hesitation on his part.
Strauss had spent the winter of 1866 at Darmstadt.
He returned there again in the spring of 1868, and
remained there until the autumn of 1872. His own
account of his acquaintance with the Princess was by
her wish not published at the time, but has been
since, with the consent of his family and that of the
Grand Duke. From this the followinsf narrative is
taken almost verbatim :
" Although I was entirely unaccustomed to asso-
236 PHINCESS ALICE.
ciate with persons of hicrh rank, I soon felt entirely
at ease with this lady. Her simplicity, the kind man-
ner in which she met me, and her keen bright intel-
lect made me forget all differences of social position."
Strauss visited the Princess very often, and their
conversations lasted sometimes for hours. He him-
self speaks of them as " most delightful and re-
freshinof."
Very often they read aloud, and this no doubt led
to a suggestion from Strauss, that he should write
down notes about Voltaire — whose works they were
studying — and afterward read them to the Princess.
She entered readily into this plan. " Her idea was
to have a select circle of listeners. Besides herself
and one of her ladies, with whom she was very in-
timate. Prince Louis, and the English Minister then
at Darmstadt, Mr. [now Sir Robert] Morier, were
to be present." The illness of Prince Louis pre-
vented this plan from being carried out.
"She, however, asked me," Strauss writes, " to
come and see her, if I was not afraid of infection.
She said that the next few weeks would be very soli-
tary ones, and it would be of great value to her if I
felt disposed to put up with her as sole audience for
my lectures on Voltaire. To this I was only too
willing to agree."
The manuscript took the form of seven lectures,
and the author was rewarded for his pains " by the
keen interestand unwavering attention of his listener."
After repeated revisions, the printing of the work
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 237
on Voltaire began. Strauss gives his own account
of this in the following extract : —
"When it first occurred to me to write something
on Voltaire for the Princess in the form of lectures, I
naturally cherished the hope that, when the little
book was printed, I might obtain her permission
to dedicate it to her. As the work progressed, how-
ever, this hope became fainter, and by the time the
book was ready I had entirely given it up.
" I could only take pleasure in my work, if I felt
I had been perfectly sincere ; if, instead of condemn-
ing Voltaire, as is usually the case, I stood up for
him upon essential points — nay, even went so far as
to intimate that here and there he had seemed to me
not to have gone far enough.
" The Princess might naturally have scruples
about allowing a book of such a tendency to be
dedicated to her, considering her position and what
was due to it ; and to ask her to allow the book to
be dedicated to her seemed forbidden by that dis-
cretion which I was bound to observe. The thought
then struck me of writing with my own hand into
the copy of the book which I gave her the Dedica-
tion, in the terms in which it now stands printed on
the second page of the volume. Meanwhile, on the
one hand, the friendly intercourse with the Princess
continued, whilst on the other the printing of the
book advanced. One day in the most kind manner
she told me how much she felt she owed to our ac-
quaintance, and how much it had helped to clear her
views in many ways. I, on my part, expressed to
her in all sincerity the animating and exhilarating
influence which our intercourse had exercised upon
myself, and, in particular, how it had cheered and
encouraged me in my labors on Voltaire.
238 PRINCESS ALICE.
*' * It would be nice, if you would dedicate your
book to me,' the Princess rejoined. How agreeably
surprised I was can easily be imagined. I acknowl-
edged without hesitation how this had been my first
intention, but that I had given it up out of regard
for her, not wishing to expose her to misinterpreta-
tion. The Princess replied that the fear of being
misunderstood would never prevent her from doing
what she thought right. I pointed out, that the
matter must be well and carefully considered, and
that, first and foremost, she must obtain her hus-
band's consent. Her answer was that she had no
fear on that point; but that she would of course
consult him about it. I told the Princess that I had
made several chanp-es and additions since I first
wrote the lectures. I would therefore brincf her the
proof-sheets as soon as they were ready, partly that
she might glance over the whole again, and partly
that she might draw the Prince's attention to any
doubtful passages. They would then be able to
form their own opinions.
" I sent her the proof-sheets, and received them
back from the Princess on the iith of June, 1870,
with the followinof letter :
" ' Dear Herr Professor : — I return you your
" Voltaire " with many thanks. My husband read
through the fifth chapter of it yesterday ; he does
not think that its contents are such as to justify my
refusing the dedication. The value which I place on
the dedication of your book will always be far
greater than any little unpleasantness which might
possibly arise from my accepting it. Alice.'
" The dedication was thus unqualifiedly accepted,
but now — in what words should I put it ? I had
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 239
got accustomed to the form in which I had meant to
write it myself into the copy I wished to present to
the Princess. I ititended saying that I had written
lectures, for the Princess, and that she had allowed
me to read them aloud to her. Would not this
make the Princess, so to speak, an accomplice of
this objectionable book ? Could I state this pub-
licly ? I felt myself bound to leave to the Princess
the choice between this dedication and a more formal
one, in which these allusions were omitted. Upon
this the Princess sent me the followins: answer:
" ' I should not like any change made in what you
have written on the first page, and am greatly
touched at your kind dedication. Alice.'
" When I was at last able to send her my book
in its complete form with the dedication printed, I
received the following note from her, written from
Kranichstein, on the 27th of June, 1870 :
" ' I have not been able till to-day to thank you
for your "Voltaire " received yesterday. The book
itself is the cause of the delay, as I devoted my
spare time to reading over v/hat you had yourself
read to me so beautifully last winter. I seemed to
hear your voice and all your observations again. I
must thank you once more for that great enjoyment,
and for the kind terms of your dedication.
" ' Alice.'
" Seldom have the negotiations about the dedica-
tion of a book been carried on in a way like this,
and seldom has a Royal Princess shown herself so
courageous and amiable."
All must agree in this opinion, from whatever
240 PRINCESS ALICE.
point of view they look at the subject. It was like
the Princess' straightforward nature boldly to ac-
knowledge to the world her friendship for Strauss,
even at the risk of incurring the most unfavorable
criticisms.
Strauss says, further, in his " Memoirs " :
" The memory of the Princess Alice will be insep-
arably connected, as long as I live, with one of the
most gratifying episodes of my life — the writing of
my work on Voltaire."
To this must be added that though, as time went
on, the Princess agreed less and less with Strauss'
avowed religious views, and especially differed con-
siderably from those enunciated in his book, " The
Old and the New Faith," she never thought other-
wise of Strauss than with gratitude and esteem, as
one in whom she had met with the most beautiful
characteristics of the best German scholarship— viz.,
unflinching sincerity, combined with a rare gift of
saying what it has to say clearly and pleasantly, and
a winning modesty of personal demeanor.
In the end of March the Prince and Princess with
their family went to Mayence for change of air after
the scarlet-fever. The Princess went much into so-
ciety during her stay there ; but this did not prevent
her from making use of every possible opportunity
for furthering those institutions which she had so
much at heart. She visited the hospitals at Mayence,
Offenbach, and Giessen, and had many consultations
with the heads of these various hospitals with a view
to possible improvements.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 24 1
The quiet, happy time at Kranichstein during the
summer was suddenly brought to an end by the
declaration of war between France and Germany.
Prince 'Louis had to go to the front with his division,
which, together with another division, formed the
Ninth Army Corps, and part of the Second Army,
commanded by Prince Frederick Charles of Prussia.
The Princess took leave of her husband on the 2 5th
of July. She, however, saw him again once or twice
before the final leave-taking, on the ist of August.
On the 1 5th of Auorust the Hessian division for
the first time encountered the enemy, before Metz,
and on the i6th took part in the battle of Mars-la-
Tour. During the terrible battle of Gravelotte, on
the 1 8th of August, Prince Louis and his division
occupied a central position in the irresistible force,
which drove Marshal Bazaine back into Metz, and
held him imprisoned there with an iron grasp.
On the 19th Prince Louis and the troops en-
camped on the battlefield, and he had the pleasure of
meeting his brother Henry. Prince Louis took part
in the battle of Noisseville on the 31st of August,
when General Manteuffel commanded the troops en-
gaged. He and his division also formed part of the
army investing Metz, pardy doing outpost duty, and
2:)artly serving in the reserve.
On the 8th of October, whilst the Prince was in
command of his division at Gravelotte, where the
troops were concentrated in hourly expectation of a
sortie of the French from Metz, he received the
242 PJilNCESS ALICE.
news of the birth of a second son, who had been
born on the 7th.
Ever since the Prince's departure the Princess had
remained " at her post " in Darmstadt, helping, com-
forting, and advising all around her. She was proud
to be the wife of a German officer serving in
the field in such a cause, though her life for the
present was full of anxiety and care. She worked,
like any other woman, to alleviate as best she could
the sufferings of the sick and the wounded, and giving
aid to those who were plunged into destitution by
the war. Whilst she was living with her children at
Kranichstein the " Hidfsvereiii," or Committee of
Aid, had its headquarters in her palace at Darm-
stadt. She herself went there every day, visited all
the hospitals, also the ambulances at the railway sta-
tion, and superintended the organization of " Com-
mittees of Aid " all over the country. The Com-
mittees which she had organized long previously
now proved themselves an untold blessing.
The " Alice Society for Aid to Sick and Wounded "
had sixteen trained nurses ready for work at the be-
ginning of the war. Through the voluntary help of
some of the best doctors and surgeons, who arranged
classes at different places for the instruction of
all those who were anxious to help to nurse during
the war, the number of nurses was increased by
degrees to one hundred and sixty-four. These were
sent to the different hospitals in Hesse, to ambu-
lances near Metz, to the hospital trains, and the hos-
pitals on the steamers.
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 243
In her own palace the Princess arranged a depot
for all necessaries required for the sick and wounded.
Later on another was established in the Grand
Ducal palace. Besides the many regular nurses, a
number of women and ladies joined together to
serve out refreshments, during the night as well as
the daytime, to the wounded, who were constantly
passing through Darmstadt and halted at the rail-
way station. Similar committees were, thanks to
the Princess' own initiative, formed all over the
country.
One of the hospitals at Darmstadt, erected by the
English National Red Cross Society, and supplied
with Enorlish surgfeons, received the name of " The
Alice Hospital." Under a special arrangement it
was subsequently taken over by the Hessian military
authorities. In this hospital, as in others established
independently of the " Alice Society," women and
girls of all classes lent their aid.
Simultaneously with the aid to the sick and
wounded, those who had been rendered widows,
orphans, or destitute by the war were cared for
through the Princess' exertions ; and " The Alice
Society for the Education and Employment of
Women " did good service. Out of this Society
sprang the " Alice Lyceum," which was intended for
the intellectual culture of women of the higher
classes. Lectures were to be delivered in it on all
the interesting subjects of the day. This Lyceum
continued for some years to attract a more or less
244 PRINCESS ALICE.
numerous audience. In the first winter of its exist-
ence lectures on Enorlish and German Literature, the
History of Art, German History, and Natural His-
tory were given. The lady at the head of it was
Fraulein Louise Biichner. Its subsequent failure
was caused by numerous external difficulties, and
not because the original idea for which it had been
founded had proved otherwise than sound.
The little new-born Prince continued to thrive,
and the Princess made a comparatively quick recov-
ery. The Crown Princess of Prussia, who was then
living at Homburg, came constantly to see her sis-
ter ; and later on, in November, they went together
to Berlin. The christening of the little Prince, who
was to bear the name of the victorious general of
Weissenburg and Worth, was deferred till his
father's return.
Prince Louis had garrisoned Fort St. Privat on the
29th of October, and saw the 173,000 French pris-
oners and Imperial Guard pass before Prince Fred-
erick Charles of Prussia.
On the 30th the troops marched farther into the
interior of the country. Troyes was reached on the
loth of November, a few days later Fontainebleau,
and soon after the troops confronted the " Army of
the Loire" at Toury. The batde of Orleans took
place on the 3d and 4th of December, and on the
5th the victorious troops made the entry into the
town. Part of the Hessian division moved along
the left bank of the Loire, and fought the engage-
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 245
ment of Montlivault on the 9th of December ; the
other part of it surprised and took possession of the
Castle of Chambord, with five guns and many pris-
oners. ' Blois was soon after taken ; and from the
loth of December till the 14th of February, 1871,
the headquarters were at Orleans. During the ex-
pedition against General Chanzy the Hessian divi-
sion alone guarded the line of the Loire from Gien to
Blois.
January 8th.
* * * My three girls have had fearful colds —
Ella bronchitis, which Ernie also took from her, and
during twelve hours we were in the very greatest
anxiety about him ; the difficulty of breathing and
his whole state caused great alarm. Thank God, he
is now quite convalescent ; but those were hours of
intense suffering for me, as you can imagine. Weber
is most attentive and most kind on such occasions,
and in such moments one is so dependent on the
doctor.
* * * Some very good lectures have been
given here lately, undertaken by a committee, which
we are at the head of, and of which Mr. Morier is a
member. They have been a great success hitherto,
and we are going to one to-night by Kinkel, who in
1848 was a refugee in England, and is now a profes-
sor at Ziirich.
January i6th.
Beloved Mama : — We are very grateful for your
kind enquiries, and for your letter received this
morninor. The violence of the fever and tlie ereat
pain in the throat have abated, and dear Louis is
going on favorably. The nights are not good as
yet, and his head pains him.
246 PRINCESS ALICE.
I am cut off from all intercourse with any one in
the house, on account of the dear children ; and I
trust they may escape, for they still cough, particu-
larly Ella and Ernie. I see Christa when I am out
walking, not otherwise, as she comes in contact with
the part of the house where the children live. I
read to Louis, and play to him, as my sitting-room
opens into the bedroom. I keep the rooms well
aired, and not hot, and at night I sleep on a sofa
near his bed. The first two nights were anxious
ones, and I was up all night alone with him ; but
now, thank God, all seems to be going well. * * *
January 20th.
I am happy to say that all is going on well. Louis
has no more fever, but his throat is still far from
well ; it has still the character of diphtheria, though
in a mild form — a sort of skin and bits of blood come
away when he coughs. He is a very good patient,
and I leave him very litde alone save when I take
my walks, which in this high cold wind are very un-
pleasant. I hear Ella is still so hoarse and coughs,
and Victoria is not quite well. Orchard writes to
me every evening, and Dr. Weber sees them in the
morninor before he comes downstairs.
This instant Weber tells me that Victoria has the
scarlet-fever, and I have just been up to see her.
She suffers very much, poor child ; the fever is very
high and the rash much out. It is too late now to
separate the others, and those who are not predis-
posed will escape ; but those who are inclined to
take it have it in them by this time.
It is a source of great anxiety. Orchard and
Emma have never had it. * * *
January 23d.
I was very glad to get your dear lines of the 2 2d,
A T HOME AND A T IVOR A'. 247
full of sympathy for me during- this anxious time.
Victoria's fever has been very high ; and so much
discomfort and pain, with a dreadful cough, which
she has" had for the last six weeks. She is very low,
and cries every now and then from weakness, etc.,
but is a very good patient, poor little one. Ame-
lung comes every afternoon and sits with her, and
she is a great favorite with the children, as she
knows countless pretty stories.
Louis is not out of bed yet, on account of his
throat, etc. ; but he is much better, though in this
treacherous climate, which is so proverbially bad for
throats and lungs, I fear that even with the greatest
care there is a risk.
The other children are as yet well, though I don't
think Ella looking well ; she has still a cold, and is
as hoarse as when I came home. Ernie is all
right again, and looks the best of them all. I doubt
their escaping, though it is quite possible, as they
did not take it when Victoria did. I keep the
rooms fresh and continually aired.
All the balls and parties are going on here now.
Of course, I can neither go anywhere nor receive
any one, on account of the infection. It is a weari-
some time indeed, and being so much in sick rooms
and so little out begins to tell upon me. How kind
of you to send the books! Louis will be delighted.
I have just read to him Russell's book of Bertie and
Alix's journey, and am now reading to him a new
Life of Napoleon, by Lanfrey, which is very well
written — more against than for Napoleon. Of
course, newspapers and the Revue dcs Deux-Mondes
I read to him besides. * * '^'
January 31st.
* * * Though dear baby has had two bad,
248 FJiliYCESS ALICE.
restless nights, yet I am happy to say that he has
the illness so slightly, with so little fever or sore
throat, that we are in great hopes it will get no
worse. He is cutting his back teeth just now, which
is the worse moment possible to be ill in.
Victoria looks very hollow-eyed, pale, and
wretched, poor darling, but is in good spirits now.
The other two are as yet free. The weather is most
beautiful — frosty and clear, — and I have been skat-
ing daily for the last six days, which does me much
good, and enables me to see people again. This
afternoon I have a large party on the ice at Kranich-
stein, and this is always a great amusement to the
young people. * * *
Mayence, April loth.
* * * Yesterday evening we had to give a
large party here, half to the military, and the other
to the civil authorities and to the Burger [citizens].
It went off well ; but the amount of speaking, as one
must speak to all, and the effort to remember who
they all were — they having been all presented at
once — was no small exertion. * * *
Mayence, April- 15th,
* * * Lady Car. [Barrington] wrote to me
how very grateful Mrs. Grey was to you for your
great kindness and consideration.'-' In trouble no
one can have a more true and sympathizing friend
than my beloved Mama always is. How many
hearts has she not gained by this, and how many a
poor sufferer's burdens has she not lightened I * * *
April 25th.
Thousand thanks for your dear loving lines ! I
kissed them a thousand times, and thank you so
* General Grey, Her Majesty's private secretary had recently died.
A T HOME AND A T WOJiK. 249
much for the quite lovely statuette — a little gem,
which every one has been admiring- this morning.
The shawl and Itttle ornament gave me also great
pleasure, and the colored photographs of the rooms
— in short, all and any thing from such dear hands
must give pleasure. * ^ *
June 25th.
* * * I am proud of my two girls, for they
are warm-hearted and gifted, too, in appearance.
Victoria's facility in learning is wonderful, and her
lessons are her delight. Her English history and
reading she has learned from me. I give her a
lesson daily, and Bauerlein * can tell you how much
she has learned. '^ "* *
I read a great deal, chiefly history and deeper
works ; and I have one or two very learned acquaint-
ances with whom to read or to have books recom-
mended by.
My two committees always give me no end of
work, and I have tried to have many improvements
made in the girls' schools of the different classes ;
and some of these things, by dint of a deal of trouble,
are prospering, and I hope in time to come will
prove their worth. There is a great deal to be
done, and in the hospitals I have been able to get
some very necessary changes made. I tell you all
this, fancying it may perhaps interest you a little
bit. * * *
July 2d.
How grieved I am for your sake, above all, and
for the poor Clarks and ourselves, that dear kind Sir
James, that true fatherly friend, is no more ! ! Many
thanks for your last letter, which tells me of your
last visit to him, which I am sure must be a great
* Miss Bauer the German governess of the Royal family.
250 PRINCESS ALICE.
comfort to you. Oh ! how sad to think how many
are gone ! And for you, dear Mama, this is quite
dreadful. I can't say how I feel it for you !
Lord Clarendon's death grieves me much also ;
and it was so sudden. Alice Skelmersdale wrote to
me in the greatest distress ; he had been a most
loving father.
In the midst of life we are in death ; and in our
quiet and solitary existence out here, where we see
no one, all accords with sad and serious feelings,
which, amidst the many people and worry you live
in, must jar with such feelings and make you wish
for solitude. The accounts you give touch me so
much. Many thanks for having written so much
about dear Sir James ; it is of great value to me.
Louis begs me to say, how he shares the grief
you all and we must feel at such a loss.
What you say about the education of our girls I
entirely agree with, and I strive to bring them up to-
tally free from pride of their position, which is nothing
save what their personal worth can make it. I read
it to the governess — who quite enters into -all my
wishes on that subject — thinking how good it would
be for her to hear your opinion. * * * I feel so en-
tirely as you do on the difference of rank, and how
all important it is for princes and princesses to know
that they are nothing better or above others, save
through their own merit ; and that they have only
the double duty of living for others and of being an
example — good and modest. This I hope my child-
ren will grow up to.
July 26ih.
When I returned home last night really heart-
broken, after having parted from my good and ten-
derly-loved Louis, 1 found your dear sympathizing
AT HOME AND AT WORX. 25 1
words, and I thank you a thousand times for them —
they were a comfort and pleasure to me [ I parted
with dear Louis late in the evening, on the high road
outside the village in which he was quartered for the
night, and we looked back until nothing more was to
be seen of each other. May the Almighty watch
over his precious life, and bring him safe back again:
all the pain and anxiety are forgotten and willingly
borne if he is only left to me and to his children!
It is an awful time, and the provocation of a war
such as this a crime that will have to be answered
for, and for which there can be no justification.
Everywhere troops and peasants are heard singing
" Die Wacht am Rhein " and " Was ist des Deut-
schen Vaterland?" and there is a feeling of unity
and standing by each other, forgetting all party quar-
rels, which makes one proud of the name of German.
All women feel ashamed of complaining, when
father, husband, or son goes, and so many as volun-
teers in the ranks. This war is felt to be national,
and that the Kinof had no other course left him to
pursue with honor.
I must be in town by nine o'clock : so much rests
on me, and there are so many to help — the poor for-
saken soldiers' families amongst others ! I have
seen that all is ready to receive the wounded, and to
send out help. I send out fourteen nurses for the
Feld-Lazarethe [field-hospitals].
How much I feel for you now, for I know how
truly you must feel for Germany ; and all know
that every good thing England does for Germany,
and every evil she wards off her, is owing to your
wisdom and experience, and to your true and just
feelings. You would, I am sure, be pleased to hear
how universally this is recognized and appreciated.
252 PRINCESS ALICE.
What would beloved Papa have thought of this
war? The unity of Germany, which it has brought
about, would please him, but never the shocking
means !
July 28th.
My darling Louis is at Worms, and Henry just in
front of him. The enthusiasm all alone the Rhine
is wonderful. They are all hopeful, though knowing
well what enormous sacrifices and struggles a victory
will cost.
I cannot leave this place until our troops should
have— which God prevent ! — to retreat, and the
French come ! Now is the moment when a panic
might overcome the people ; and I think it my duty
to remain at my post, as it gives the people courage
and confidence. My parents-in-law, who have their
three sons out, would feel my absence, and they
have the first claim on me. I am in beloved Louis'
home, and nearer to him, if I remain. Of course,
with dear Vicky I should personally be far better off.
But Fritz is not much exposed, and she has not that
fearful anxiety to such an amount as I have for dear
Louis, who, as commander of only a division, must
be in the very midst of all. Day and night this
thought is uppermost in my mind. I hope and pray
for the best, and bear what is sent to me in com-
mon with so many others. Work is a Zcrstre2ni7ig
[distraction], and I know dear Louis would prefer
knowing me here for the present, and that must be
the first consideration to determine my actions.
Louis is well, and, now the dreadful parting is
over, I am sure in better spirits, though work and
anxiety weigh on him, poor love.
The children send their love. I am pretty well ;
able to do a great deal ; headache and sleeplessness
are but natural at this moment.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 2$^
August 5th.
Arrived in our house this morning, I was received
with the news of dear Fritz' victory, and that 5oo
French prisoners had just passed through here by
rail. I know none of ours can have been engaged,
but we have not heard if there was an engagement
elsewhere. The excitement and anxiety are quite
dreadful ! Please God, my darling is safe, and will
pass safely through these dreadful dangers — and our
many dear friends and acquaintances also ! I am
always sending off things for the wounded from our
stores, and continue working and collecting, and all
are most patriotic and united. It is a solemn and
orreat time we live in, and there is somethinof grrand
and elevating in the unity of high and low through-
out this great nation, which makes one proud of be-
longing to it. If only all goes on well !
1 am very sleepless, and never without headache,
but one has neither time nor wish to think of one's
self. My own Louis' safety is the all-engrossing
thought; and I know, beloved Mama, that you love
him truly, and share this anxiety with me. * * *
August isth.
A few words by messenger. I have sent a letter
by Kanne, who came here yesterday, having seen
dear Louis the day before, which was the first direct
news I have had from him. Yesterday morning he
was at Faulquemont. Poor General von Manstein
(our Chef), when he reached Saarbriick, found his
son had been killed, and he had him taken out of
the general grave and buried in the churchyard.
* * '■■• No less than forty French wounded I saw
this morning in our hospital, with some Turcos.
Some can't speak in any known language, and the
French dislike havinof these savao^es near them as
254 FEIN CESS ALICE.
much as we do ; their physiognomies are horrid,
and they steal and murder as Handwerk [their voca-
tion].
So much going about — for I go to Darmstadt at
half-past eight, and remain till half-past eleven, in
the morning, and in the afternoon from five till
eight — is getting very fatiguing to me ; but the
people have no time to come out here, and there is
much to see to, and many to speak with.
August 19th.
I have tried to write as often as I could, but I
have only two hours to myself during the whole
day, through driving in here twice a day. Besides
the large Hiilfsverein for the " wounded and sick,"
which is in our palace, I have daily to visit the four
hospitals. There is very much to do ; we are so
near the seat of war. This morning we got two
large wagons ready and sent off for Pont-a-Mousson,
where they telegraph from the batdefield of the i6th
they are in great want. My best nurses are out
there ; the others are in three hospitals : two of
them — military ones — were not ready or organized
when i5o wounded arrived a week ago. I have just
had a telegram from dear Louis ; he is well, and I
hope in a day or two the least dangerously of the
Hessian wounded will arrive.
Thank God, all goes on successfully ; but, indeed,
I hope I shall not live to see another such war— it is
too shocking by far. We have over five hundred
wounded ; as soon as any are better, they are sent
north, and worse ones fill the beds — French and
German intermixed. I neither see nor smell any
thing else but wounds ! and the first Anblick [sight],
which sometimes one does not escape meeting, is
very shocking ! It was very late last night before I
AT HOME AND AT IVORIC. 255
got home. I was stopped at one of the hospitals, as
a poor soldier had had sudden violent bleeding,
and was all but dead, as the doctor could not find
the artery ; but I sent my carriage for another sur-
geon, and I am happy to say he lives and is recov-
erino^.
As Louis commands the whole of our little army,
a great many things concerning the troops come to
me from all parts of the country, and there is much
to do — much more than in my present state is good
for me ; but it can't be helped.
I drive back to Kranichstein by one daily, and am
here again before five, so I hope you will kindly for-
give my writing seldomer. Becker is engrossed with
his duties at the Hiilfsverein ; there is no other gen-
tleman with me, and I have the household to look
after, besides.
August 20th.
My telegram will have told you that dear Louis is
until now safe. On the i6th, in the evening, and on
the 17th and i8th, our troops were engaged, and
yesterday evening late I drove to the station, to
speak to General Kehrer, our commandant, and
received a telegram of the last victory, near Metz —
a battle of nine hours, very bloody — no mention of
names. The people, all excited, crowded round my
carriage, asked for news — which of our refriments
had been under fire ? I could tell them nothing,
but pacified them, begging them to go to their
homes — they should hear as soon as I had news. I
drove home with an aching heart, and passed a
dreadful night of suspense. At six this morning a
telegram from Louis {19th) ; he and his two brothers
safe ; our loss enormous — seventy officers out of
one division (ours is the 2 5th), and Oberlieutenant
256 PRINCESS ALICE.
Moller, a great favorite, his adjutant since 1866, very
badly wounded. I went at once to Darmstadt to
Louis' parents. They were so overcome and thank-
ful to hear of the safety of their children. This con-
tinual anxiety is fearful. Now to-day all the poor
wives, mothers, sisters, come to me for news of their
relations ; it is heart-rending- ! We sent off two
laro-e waeon-loads to Pont-a-Mousson again with
provisions, bandages, and medicaments, and mat-
tresses to bring back all the wounded possible by
rail. I went the round of the hospital, to have all
the convalescent Prussians and French able to travel
sent to their homes, so as to get room, and now we
can await the sad arrivals. Oh, if it would but end !
the misery of thousands is too awful !
Kranichstein, August 25th.
Many thanks for your dear words of the 20th.
God knows, I have suffered much, and the load of
anxiety is great ! But thousands of Germans bear
this load in unity together for their Fatherland, and
none murmur. Yesterday a poor woman came to me
to ask me to help her to get to the battlefield, to have
the body of her only son looked for and brought
home ; and she was so resigned and patient.
I see daily, in all classes, so much grief and suffer-
ing ; so many acquaintances and friends have fallen !
It is heart-rending ! I ought to be very proiLcl 'Oi\Q>v^^\,
and I am so, too, to hear from the mouths of so
many wounded officers the loud praise of Louis'
great bravery on the i6th and i8th. Always in
front, encouraging his men where the battle raged
fiercest and the balls fell thickest. He was near our
troops, speaking to them, directing them, and right
and left of him they fell in masses. This lasted
eight hours !
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 257
* * * Hourly almost the trains bring" in fresh
wounded, and many and shocking are the sights one
sees. I only returned here by one, having gone to
town at- half-past eight this morning, and have still
three hospitals for this afternoon.
My nurses reached the battlefield in time, and
were of great use. Louis telegraphed (yesterday's
date) from Auboue, between Thionville and Metz,
where they remain in bivouac. * * * j|- j^ ^^^
days since Louis has been in a bed or under a roof.
They have no water (it is kept for the wounded),
and little to eat, but he is very well.
It is difficult to get news, and I can never send
any that is not mostly ten days old ere it reaches
him.
August 26th.
* * * I had a telegram on the 2 5th from near
Marengo, not far from Metz — all well. Louis has
not been in bed or under a roof since the i6th, and
it rains incessantly. I hope they won't all be ill. He
writes mostly on cards, on the hilt of his sword, sit-
ting on a box. They cook their own dinner, and
on the 1 6th they were going to eat it, when orders
came to turn the French left wing- and go into battle.
That night was awful, though the day of the i8th
seems to have been the bloodiest ever known. Our
wounded all tell me so.
My dear parents-in-law bear up well ; but when
we three get together we pour our hearts out to
each other, and then tears which are full of anxiety
will flow.
Kranichstein, September 2d.
I went early to Homburg, as no trains go regu-
larly now. I went by road from Frankfort, and found
dear Vicky well — her little baby very pretty and
258 PRINCESS ALICE.
healthy-looking ; the other dear children also
well.
How much we had to tell each other ! How much
to be proud of, and how many friends and acquaint-
ances to mourn over ! The few hours we had to-
gether flew by in no time, and at Frankfort the train
was unpunctual — outside Darmstadt it waited nearly
an hour. At our palace, where I arrived at ten in
the evening, people who were going to our Haiip-
quartier [headquarters], were waiting. I scribbled a
few words to my dear Louis (the first since he re-
ceived the Iron Cross, a great distinction) and packed
a few things for him — tea, etc.
September 15th.
Though I am still forbidden to use my eyes, I
must send you a few words of thanks for your dear
letter and telegram. I had a violent inflammation
of eyes and throat, with two days strong fever and
neuralgia. I am recovering now, but feel the effects
very much ; my eyes are still bad, and it has reduced
my strength, which I require so much. Dr. Weber
has just lost his sister (whom he treated in her con-
finement) from puerperal fever, and he told me he
thought he must have given it to her, from going to
and fro to his wounded, for Lazarethfieber [hospital
fever] and that were so closely akin. You can fancy
that in Louis' absence, and with the prospect of be-
ing alone, without even a married experienced lady
in the house, this prospect frightened me. It is un-
healthy at any time to be for one's confinement in
a town full of hospitals with wounded, and Weber
could never ofive me as much attention as at anodier
time, and, should I be very ill, there is no authority
to say any thing about what had best be done. On
that account your telegram was a relief to me.
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 259
September 20th.
* * * Daily I hear the muffled drums of the
funeral of some soldier or officer beino- taken past
my windows to his last resting-place. How deeply
I do feel for the poor parents and widows !
My children are very well, but have absolutely no
place where they can walk with safety from infection,
for the mass of sick troops who get out and stop near
the Exercirplatz [drill-ground], and the hospitals in
town. The barrack at the foot of our garden con-
tains 1,200 French prisoners, and many of them ill.
It is much to be hoped that there will be soon an
end to all these things. I feel for the Emperor and
Empress very much. What ungrateful, vain, and
untruthful people the French are ! To expose Paris
to a siege, now their armies are beaten, which they
think through fine speeches and volunteers they can
set right again.
September 22d.
I received your letter through Kanne yesterday,
and thank you many times for it; also for the little
shawls and sash for Ernie. Every souvenir from
dear Balmoral is a pleasure.
Good Dr. Hofmeister will be very welcome, and I
know he is very clever. Mrs. Clarke is sure to get
on well with him, and an older doctor just now, be-
sides being an acquaintance of so many years, is to
me indeed a comfort. I shall be able also to hear of
all at home, and of so many things that interest me.
Thousand thanks from Louis and from myself for
your sending him, * * *
Ar.L long for peace — the army and the nation —
and I think so great a national war as this need not
require part of the foes' territory. What little is
necessary for the military frontier they must take ;
26o PRINCESS ALICE.
but the union of Germany under one head is a far
crreater and finer end to such a war than the annex-
ation of land ! ,
* * * War is the greatest scourge this world
knows, and that we may not live to see it again, is
my earnest prayer.
October ist.
* * * The children are all well, in spite of the
bad air here. I send them out driving of an after-
noon, when I can best, having only one coachman,
as ours are with Louis. At present they can't manage
it often. ^- * *
October 3d.
* * * Dr. Hofmeister is to both of us a source
of real confidence and comfort. I don't think anyone
else would have been more welcome to me just now,
and he can write daily to Louis, and letters go
usually in two days now.
I go as little as possible to the hospital now,
and, indeed, do nothing imprudent, you can be
sure. * * *
November 12th.
* * * The nerves of my forehead and eyes
are still painful ; and from all sides I am again called
upon to look after, settle, and advise concerning
many things. On that account Dr. Weber and my
mother-in-law insist on my leaving Darmstadt for a
total change of scene, etc., for three weeks. I have
resisted as long as I could, as I so much dislike
going from home now (though I do not feel up to
the work, and yet cannot keep from doing it), but I
have finally given in, and accepted Vicky's kind invi-
tation to accompany her for three weeks to Berlin.
The journey is long and cold, but her company when
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 26 1
we are both alone is a pleasure to me, and I shall
hear all news as directly there as here.
* * * Last night I was much overcome. I had
been sitting at the bedside of one of my poor young-
friends, and he was gasping in a too-distressing way.
The father held his hand, the tears streaming down
his cheek, the son was trying to say " Wcinc nicJit,
Papa " [" Don't weep, Papa !"]. The poor old father,
so proud of his good and handsome child, is heart-
broken, and they are touchingly united and full of
feeling for each other. I would give any thing to
save his life ; but all efforts will, I fear, be in vain.
Though I have seen so many lately die hard deaths,
and heard and seen the grief of many heart-broken
widows and mothers, it makes my heart bleed anew
in each fresh case, and curse the wickedness of war
again and again.
Poor baby can't be christened yet, as my parents-
in-law think Louis would not like it durine his ab-
sence, so I shall wait. ■''' * *
November 17 th.
* * * How I rejoice to hear that Leopold
gains so much strength, and that he can be about
again as usual. Will you kindly tell him in Louis'
name and mine (as I am still restricted in all writing
and reading) that we beg him to stand godfather to our
little son ? "' Baby is so nice and fat now, and thrives
very well. I think you would admire him, his fea-
tures are so pretty, and he is so pink, and looks so
wide-awake and intcUiirent. Ernie, who in general
is a rough boy, is most tender and gentle to his little
brother, and not jealous. '•' '•' '''
♦Prince Frederick William, the "Friltie" of these letters, born the 6th
of the previous month of October, and who was killed by a fall from a win-
dow on the 29th of May, 1873.
262 PJilXCESS ALICE.
Berlin, December 5th.
■¥•
* Yesterday Fieldmarshal Wrangel came
to see me, and his words were, '' Zu gratidirc7i dass
Jhr Mann ei7i Held ist, tend sich so superb gesch-
lagcn hat " [" Accept my congratulations that your
husband is a hero, and lias fouo^ht so macrnifi-
cently "]. I am very proud of all this, but I am too
much a woman not to long above all things to have
him safe home again.
* •■!: -::- 'YhG evenings Vicky and I spend alone
together, talking, or writing our letters. There is
so much to speak of and think about, of the present
and the future, that it is to me a great comfort to be
with dear Vicky. It is nearly five months since
Louis left, and we lead such single existences that a
sister is inexpressibly dear when all closer inter-
course is so wanting ! There is so much, beloved
Mama, I should like to speak to you about. * * *
The girls are quite well, and very happy with their
grandparents. The governess — who in the end did
not suit for the children — as the six months' trial is
over, will not remain, and I am looking for another
one.
Darmstadt, December i8th.
* * * 'j^j-^g children and I bore the journey
well, and it was not cold. Parting from dear Vicky
was a hard moment, and I shall feel the loneliness
here so much, and miss my dear good Louis more
than ever. The children are, of course, at such a
time the greatest blessing. There is so much to do
for them, and to look after for them ; and mine are
dear good children, and do not give over-much
trouble.
Letters I have again received speak of the
amount of danger Louis has again been daily exposed
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 263
to, and how his personal courage and daring" have
given the victory in many a fight. God protect him !
I live in fear and'trembling for his precious life, and
after I hear of his being safe through one battle, I
take it as a fresh present from the Almighty, and
breathe freer ao^ain, though the fear soon enough
gets the upper hand again.
I have asked Uncle Louis to allow his Bcrichte
[reports] to be copied for you. Louis has Kdhler
and another footman with him, that is all — and two
coachmen. He rides in all battles the horse you
gave him in 1866, which he rode during that cam-
paign, and which is quite invaluable. It would in-
terest Colonel Maude to know this, as he bought
the horse. My nursery is in very good order, and
they are all invaluable in their way.
How is good Dr. Hoffmeister's family } Please
say many kind things to him from me, and tell him
that the baby is getting so nice and fat, and is so
healthy in spite of all troubles. Here is a photo-
graph of him, but not at all flattered. Please give
Dr. Hofmeister one of them !
I have this instant received a letter from Louis
dated the nth! I will have an extract made for
you, I think it might interest Bertie to hear some-
thing of Louis, whom he can be proud to have as a
brother-in-law, for I hear his praises continually. He
has been throughout the war, as every other Gen-
eral has been, without a carriage, etc., like other
Princes, and has gained the respect and devotion of
his troops.
Darmstadt, December 19th.
* ^' '^' I hope for this last time, if we are spared
and live to come over together once more, we may
have the joy of showing their dear Grandmama the
264 FJ?INCESS ALICE.
whole little band. Of course, no thoughts of plans
can be entertained, and I know, after so very long a
separation, Louis would not be willing again to part
from his children.
My wounded were so pleased to see me again
yesterday. Alas ! many in bed, and so ill still ! My
two in the house are much better, and the one who
during six weeks lay at death's door is recovering.
I have seldom experienced so great a satisfaction as
seeing this young man recover, and the doctors say
I have been the means of saving his life.
The joy of the old parents will be very great.
Since I left, there are new widows, and fresh parents
bereft of only children ; it is a most painful duty to
go to them. But I know the comfort of sympathy
is the only one in deep grief.
December 23d.
My warmest and tenderest thanks for your dear
and loving letter, with so many expressions of a
mother's love and sympathy, which do my heart
good, now that I feel so lonely and anxious. It
seems too great a happiness to think of, that of our
beine allowed to come with our children to you, and
to Scotland ; and you know the smallest corner
is enough for us, who are by no means particular —
neither are our people. If I write this to Louis, it
will be somethinof for him to look forward to, to
cheer him and reward him after so hard a time,
which he bears so bravely and uncomplainingly.
This morning I have been at the Alice Hospital,
which is prospering. I have been taking my gifts
for Christmas to one hospital after another. Your
two capes have delighted the poor sufferers, and the
one wounded for the second time is very bad, alas !
My wounded officer in the house is recovering, next
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 265
to a miracle. For the two wounded in the house,
the children, our household, and the children of our
servants at the war, I arrange Christmas-trees.
We grown-up ones of the family have given up
keeping Christmas for ourselves. We have too
much to do for others, and my parents-in-law, like
me, feel the absence of the dear ones who are always
here for Christmas.
I am superintending Victoria and Ella's letters to
you, which have not achieved the perfection wished
for. As they are to be quite their own, I hope you
will excuse their arriving a little later.
Darmstadt, December 27th.
* * * Louis telegraphed on Christmas day
from Orleans, where I had sent Christa's brother
with a box of eatables and woollen things for his
people, and a tiny Christmas-tree with little lights
for the whole party. Louis has sent me a photo-
graph of himself and staff done at Orleans, and I
have sent for a copy for you, as it is very good. On
Christmas day it was five months since Louis and
the troops left. The charming stockings you sent, I
have sent off in part to-day to Louis to give to his
Stabsivache [Staff-guard] ; the other things I divide
among the wounded and sick.
My children are all well. The little one sits up,
and, though not very fat, is round and firm, with
rosy cheeks and the brightest eyes possible. He is
very healthy and strong, and in fact the prettiest of
all my babies. The three girls are so grown, partic-
ularly the two eldest, you would scarcely know
them. They are both very tall for their age. Vic-
toria is the height of Vicky's Charlotte, and Ella not
much less. They are thin, and a change of air
would be very beneficial.
266 PRINCESS ALICE.
1871.
The christening of the little Prince took place
quietly on the iith of February, the child receiving
the names of Frederick William. The sponsors
were the Empress of Germany, the Crown Princess,
Crown Prince, Prince Frederick Charles of Prussia,
and Princess Alice's own brother, Prince Leopold.
The ceremony took place in the absence of Prince
Louis, who had been unable to get leave, although
an armistice had been concluded on the 28th of
January, which it was hoped would be the forerunner
of peace.
On the 1 8th of March the King of Prussia, who
had meanwhile become Emperor of Germany, made
his entry into Frankfort-on-the-Main, together with
his son and his whole staff. The Grand Duke of
Hesse and the members of his family received him
there.
Prince Louis at last obtained ten days' leave of
absence, and arrived at Darmstadt on the 21st of
March. The parents of the Prince had gone to
meet him and his brother William a few stations
beyond Darmstadt, whilst the Princess Alice awaited
her husband at the Darmstadt railway station. The
joy and thankfulness of that meeting can well be
imagined. Darmstadt was gaily decorated in honor
of the Prince's return ; and he met with an enthusi-
astic reception.
Prince and Princess Louis were present at Berlin
on the 1 6th of June at the triumphal entry of the
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 267
German troops on the conclusion of the peace. On
the 2 1 St of June th^ Prince entered Darmstadt at the
head of his Hessian division. In spite of pouring
rain, the town presented a most festive appearance.
Later on the Prince and Princess and their children
went to Seeheim (near Darmstadt), where her
brother, Prince Alfred, visited them on his return
from his three years' voyage round the world. The
Prince and Princess of Wales also paid their sister a
visit ; and Prince and Princess Louis saw much of
their Russian relations, who were then staying at
Jugenheim.
In August, the family went to the seaside at
Blankenberghe, where they spent three weeks, and
afterward went to London. They arrived at Bal-
moral on the 13th of September, on a visit to the
Queen, whom they found suffering severely. They
stayed with her till the ist of November, but the
children, who had caught the whooping cough, were
sent to London sooner. Whilst at Sandringham, to
which the Prince and Princess went on their way
back from Balmoral, in the middle of November, the
Prince of Wales was taken ill. Prince Louis had to
return to Darmstadt, but the Princess remained in
England, and shared the anxieties of the very dan-
gerous and protracted illness of her brother, whom
she helped to nurse. It was the same terrible fever
(typhoid) which, ten years before, had ended the life
of the beloved Prince Consort, and it was so severe
that the worst was feared. Prince Louis returned
268 PRINCESS ALICE.
to England on the very day when the danger was
greatest, but he also was able to share in the joy and
thankfulness when improvement set in upon the
14th of December. He remained over Christmas,
and returned to Darmstadt before the year was at
an end.
Darmstadt, January 7th.
* * * In England people are, I fear, becom-
ing unjust toward the German troops. Such a long
and bloody war must demoralize the best army ; and
I only say, in such a position how would the French
have behaved } Many French officers say the same,
and how greatly they respect the German soldier.
Hundreds of French officers and two generals have
broken their word of honor, and run away. I doubt,
whether one in the German army would do such a
thing. The French peasants, often women, murder
our soldiers in their beds, and the wounded they
have used too horribly many a time. Is it a wonder,
then, when the men let a feeling of revenge lay hold
of them ? A guerilla war is always horrid, and
no words can say how all Germans feel and de-
plore the present phase of the war ! I hope and
trust that the end may not be far distant.
One of the poor wounded soldiers whom I gave
your cape to is dying, and the poor boy won't part
from it for an instant, and holds it tight round him-
self.
Louis continues at Orleans, where they have en-
trenched themselves, and await with impatience
news from Paris which must be of great influence
for the continuation or ending of the war.
My days fly past. The children take much of my
time — so, too, the house, my two wounded in the
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 269
house, and the hospitals, to one of which I go
daily.
•■ Darmstadt, January 14th,
* * .* How kind of you to work something
for Louis ; he will wear it with such pleasure. Prince
Frederick Carl's recent victories * and the fresh
hosts of prisoners must help to bring the war to an
end. Germany does not wish to go on, but the
French won't see that they are beaten, and they will
have to accept the visitors, who must increase in
numbers the longer the French refuse to accede to
the German demands.
I am so low, so deeply grieved for the misery en-
tailed on both sides, and feel for the French so
much. Our troops do not pillage in the way
described in English papers. I have read far
worse accounts of what the French soldiers and
frajzcs-tircurs do in their French villages.
The poor soldier who had your cape is dead. He
died with it round him. I was with him in the after-
noon, and he had tears in his eyes, and was very
low. In the nio^ht he died. This morninof I was at
the station to give things to the wounded and sick
who came through — a sorry sight. This afternoon
I am going to a poor soldier's widow who has just
had twins. The distress on all sides is great. I
help where I can. Becker tears his hair. The two
wounded in the house cost so much. So does every
thing else ; but as long as I can, through sparing on
myself, help others, I must do it — though I have, as
thinofs now are, nothincf left.
I will get a head of Ernest done for your brace-
let, and another one, so that you may have some-
thing else of him. He is a magnificent boy, but so
* On the lOth, nth, and 12th of January, 1871, before Le Mans.
270 FJ?INCESS ALICE.
huge — such Ihnbs ! The baby is not at all small,
but near Ernest all the others look small.
He can't speak properly yet, but he understands
every thing, and has a wonderful ear for music. He
sines the " Gtden Kameraden'' without a fault in the
time, and is passionately fond of dancing, which he
also does in time.
Irene is erowine fast also, but the two eldest are
quite big girls ; it makes me feel old when I see them
growing up to me so fast. Victoria has a very en-
quiring mind, and is studious, and learns easily and
well. Since the middle of December I have been
without a governess.
To-morrow I go to Mayence to see poor Wolde-
mar* Holstein's sister. He is very bad, to the grief
of all Mayence, and of all who know him.
Darmstadt, January i6th,
* * * It is pouring and thawing — most dismal
— and my thoughts are with our dear ones and our
poor troops far away. Becker lost his brother-in-
law, who leaves a wife (Matilda, Becker's sister) and
four little children. Each day fresh losses.
My litde baby ought to be christened, but Louis
and my parents-in-law always hope that the end of
hostilities is near, and that Louis can then get leave.
Baby's blue eyes are beginning to turn, and look al-
most as if they would be brown. Should dear
Grandmama's and -Grandpapa's eyes come up again
amongst some of the grandchildren, how nice it
would be !
I have but litde news to give. I go about to the
poor soldiers' widows and wives — no end of them,
with new-born babies, in the greatest distress.
* Prince Henry Charles Woldemar of Schleswig-Holstein, Governor of
ihe Fortress of Mayence. He died on the 20th of January, 1871.
AT NOME AND AT WORK. 2/1
Yesterday I saw the mother of the poor young
soldier who died. She keeps your cape as a precious
rehc, as it had givQn him such great pleasure.
January 30th,
Your charming photograph and kind letter arrived
this morning — thousand thanks for both ! How like
the photograph, and how pleasing ! I am so glad to
have it.
The armistice and capitulation of Paris are great
events. The people are out of their minds with joy
— flags all over the town, and the streets crowded.
I forgot to say in my last letter how grieved I was
about Beaty Durham's "=' death. It is quite shock-
ing! and those numbers of children in so short a
time. I earnestly hope none of us run such a chance,
for on the whole our children have not been so close
together. My last came sooner than I wished, and
is smaller than his brother, but I hope now for a
long rest. I have baby fed, besides, so as not to
try my strength. He is very healthy and strong,
and is more like Victoria and my brothers and sisters
than my other children, and his eyes remind me of
Uncle Ernest's, and seem turning brown, which
would be very pretty, as he is very fair otherwise.
Your pretty photograph is standing before me,
and makes me quite absent. I catch myself con-
tinually staring at it, instead of writing my letters.
Darmstadt, February 2d.
* * * All the many French here are pleased
at the capitulation of Paris, and hope that peace is
certain. Louis writes to me that the inhabitants of
Orleans were equally pleased, and consider the war
over. I earnestly pray it may be so. How greatly
relieved and thankful all Germany would be !
* Daughter of the Duke of Abercorn.
272 PHLVCESS ALICE.
Louis telegraphed to-day. He has no leave as
yet, though he hopes for it. Now that there is a
prospect of peace, and that the fighting is momenta-
rily over, I feel quite a collapse of my nerves, after
the strain that has been on them for six whole
months. I can scarcely imagine what it will be when
my beloved Louis is at home again ; it seems too
great a joy ! Rest and quiet together are what I
long for ; and I fear in the first weeks he will have
so much to do, and there will be much eoine on.
He speaks with the greatest hope of going to
Scotland this autumn ; and, if we are spared to do
so, it will be such a rest, and do good to our healths,
which must feel the wear and tear sooner or later.
February nth.
Many thanks for your last kind letter. I thought
so much of you yesterday, spending the dear loth
for the first time again at Windsor. To day our
little son is to be christened, but only the family will
be present, and my ladies and the two wounded gen-
tlemen, who can get about on crutches now. When
I think that the one owes his life to being here, it
always gives me pleasure.
Two nights ago I was awakened by a dreadful
noise, the whole house and my bed rocking from it ;
and twice again, though less violently. It was an
earthquake, and I think too unpleasant. It fright-
ens one so ; the doors and windows rattle and shake.
To-night two slight shocks, and one during the day
yesterday.
How I shall miss dear Louis to-day ! The seven
months will be round ere we meet, I fear, and he
has never seen his dear little boy. It always makes
me sad to look at him, though now I have every
reason to hope — please God — that I shall have the
A T HOME AND A T JVOJ?Jir. 2/3
joy of seeing Louis come home, and of placing his
baby in his arms. My heart it full, as you can fan-
cy, and, much as f long to see Louis, I almost dread
the moment — the emotion will be so great, and the
long pent-up feelings will find vent.
I pray that peace may be restored, and that I may
not live to see siccA a war again, or to see my sons
have to go to it.
I will tell Christa to write an account to you of the
christening, for Leopold to see also, as he will be
godfather. Frederic William Augustus (after the
Empress) Victor (victory) Louis will be his names.
Fritz and Vicky, the Empress and Fritz Carl, are
godparents.
Darmstadt, February 14th,
My bad eyes must again excuse the shortness of
these lines, which are to thank you many times for
your last dear letter.
Christa will have sent you the account of little
Fritz's christening, which was a sad day for me, and
will have been so for dear Louis likewise. We have
added dear Leopold's name to the other, as his sad
life, and the anxiety his health has so often caused
us all, endear him particularly, and we hoped it
would give him pleasure, poor boy.
The elections in the provinces are all for peace,
and only the towns for war and a republic. This
week is one of intense and anxious expectation ;
though the greater portion believe in the restoration
of peace, yet we have no security for it.
March 6th.
-X- -X- * Now dear Louise's marriage draws
near, how much you must feel it! I think so much
of her, of your and of my dear home. I trust she will
274 PRINCESS ALICE.
be very happy, which with such an amiable young
man she must be.
Louis has received the Order ''Pour le vierite,"
which I am so glad of for him. The Emperor tele-
graphed the announcement to my mother-in-law,
with many complimentary words about her sons. To
have the three sons safe is something to be thankful
for, for they were much and continually exposed. I
know nothing of Louis' coming. The troops march
home, and it will take at least six weeks. I hope so
much that he may have leave for a fortnight, and then
return to the troops, to lead them home.
To-night are the peace illuminations here, which
will be very pretty. Our house will also be illumi-
nated, and I take the two eldest girls out with me
to-night to see it all. It is a thing for them never to j
forget, this great and glorious, though too horrid,
war.
March 13th.
I know nothing as yet of Louis' return. I fear I
must wait a few weeks longer. On Wednesday the
Emperor, Fritz, and some of the Princes pass through
Frankfort, and I am going there with my parents-in-
law to see them.
The Paris news is not very edifying, and I fear
France has not seen the worst yet, for there seems
to be a fearful state of anarchy there.
I have no news to give, save that Frittie has his
first tooth. He is between Victoria and Irene, but
not like Ernie — not near so big, which is really not
necessary. I think he is the sort of baby you ad-
mire. I go on looking after my hospitals, and now
the trains, full of Landwehr returning home cheering
and singing, begin to pass. Now good-bye, darling
Mama. I am in thought daily with you during these
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 2/5
days, and only wish it had been in my power to be
of any use or comfort to you just now.
•■
Darmstadt, April 8th.
* * * We had the pleasure of catching- a
glimpse of Louise and Lome on their way through,
but their stay was too short to be able to say more
than a few words. They can scarcely help passing
through here, as they can't go through France, on
their way back; and if you would allow them quite
incognito on their way back to pass a day here, it
would give both Louise and me the greatest pleasure,
and entail no other visits.
The Emperor, who kindly gave Louis leave, pro-
longed it till Monday, when he leaves, and for how
long is quite undecided. If I could only go with
him ! Marie of Saxony has joined George : so has
Carola [the Crown Princess of Saxony] her hus-
band ; but our division, which is near Chumont, is
in too bad and close quarters to admit of my living
there.
Should Louis have to remain very lonq-, I still
hope to rejoin him — I don't care about the little dis-
comfort.
The new governess, Frl. Kitz, comes on Thursday.
She is not young, but pleasing-looking — said to be
very amiable, and a good governess ; has been for
eighteen years in Enq^land, first with Lady Palk, and
then for ten years with Herr Kleinwart — a rich Ger-
man banker in London — where she brought up the
two daughters.
Darmstadt, April 13th.
* * * Ernie's kilt was sent him by Mr.
Mitchell.* He admired Ernie so much at Berlin,
* The late Mr. John Mitchell, the librarian of Old Bond Street.
276 PRINCESS ALICE.
that he said he would send him a Scotch dress, and
1 could not refuse. It is rather small as it is, and I
hope that you will still give him one, as from his
Grandmama it would be doubly valuable.
Louis has arrived safely at his destination — Don-
jeux ; and we both feel the separation very much
after having had the happiness of being together
again.
The Paris battles are too dreadful, and the end
seems some way off yet.
May 27th.
My thoughts cannot leave unfortunate Paris !
What horrors, and enacted so close by in the centre
of the civilized world ! It seems incredible ; and
what a lesson for those who wish to learn by it !
Darmstadt, June 8th.
Louise and Lome are just gone, and it rains and
blows, and is dreadful. Their visit was so pleasant,
so gemilthlich, and I think Louise looks well and
happy. She had much to tell of their journey,
which seems to have been very interesting. I could
show them almost nothing, as the weather was so
bad. We three went yesterday evening to my pa-
rents-in-law, who were most kind to them, as they
always are to all my relations.
Their short stay was a great ^r^^/ pleasure to me,
so cut off from home as I have been since three
long years.
Louis will be here in a few days, and we go to-
gether to Berlin for four days ; Louis insists on my
accompanying him. On the 24th the entry of the
troops will be here.
Seeheim, June 14th.
* * * I am so glad that the poor Emperor
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 2//
and Empress are so kindly treated. They deserve
to be well used by England, for the Emperor did so
much to brino- France and England tocrether. How
shamefully the French treat them, and speak of
them, is not to be told ; for the French consider
themselves blameless, and always betrayed by oth-
ers, whom they had made almost their gods of, as
long as all went well.
Dear Frittie is getting better — principally his
looks, but the illness is not overcome yet. I have
been so anxious about him. The country here is
more beautiful than ever, and country air and flow-
ers are a great enjoyment. Every little walk is up
and down hill, little brooks, rocks, small green val-
leys, fine woods, etc. I have not lived here since
1 865, when Ella was a baby. The children are be-
side themselves with pleasure at the pretty country
and the scrambling walks, but above all at the wild
flowers, in which they are getting quite learned. I
find them in a book for them, and even Ernie knows
some names, and never calls them wrong. All my
children are great lovers of nature, and I develop
this as much as I can. It makes life so rich, and
they can never feel dull anywhere, if they know to
seek and find around them the thousand beauties
and wonders of nature. They are very happy and
contented, and always see, the less people have
the less they want, and the greater is the enjoyment
of that which they have. I bring my children up
as simply and with as few wants as I can, and, above
all, teach them to help themselves and others, so as
to become independent.
Darmstadt, June 20th.
I write at the dinner-table, whilst the children fin-
ish dinner, as I have not found a spare moment yet,
278 PRINCESS ALICE.
and the rest of my afternoon is taken up with the
preparations for to-morrow.
The Empress Augusta has just been here for
three hours, quite dead-tired with all she went
through.
Thousand thanks for your dear letter received be-
fore our departure for Potsdam ! Our journey was
dreadful. We left in the evening, and were to have
been here at 1 1 a.m., and through the irregularity of
the trains we only got here at four in the afternoon.
I am quite done up. The fatigues at Berlin were in-
cessant. Any thing more grand, more imposing or
touching and erhcbend [elevating] than the entry of
the troops in Berlin I never saw. It was a wonderful
sight to drive for three-quarters of an hour through
rows of French cannon! The decorations were so
artistic, so handsome, and the enthusiasm of the
dense crowds quite enormous. I am glad to have
been there ; it will be a thing to recollect. The old
Emperor, surrounded by the many princes and by
his great generals, looked so noble riding at the
head of his glorious troops. Deputations of all the
German troops were there.
It was very hot, and we had to drive every day to
Berlin, and back in the evening.
Alas! it is rainy here, and the town is so beauti-
fully decorated ; three large triumphal arches, and
the houses covered with garlands and flags.
I found the dear children well, though rather pale
from the heat.
Louis left again this morning, but after to-morrow
remains here for good, which will indeed be a pleas-
ure after such endless separations.
Darmstadt, June 27th.
* * * To-day Aunt Marie of Russia and her
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 2yg
children were here. Aunt Marie looks thinner than
ever, but well; and Marie dear and nice, with such a
kind fresh face, -so simple and girlish. She gives
her brothers music lessons during the journey, which
she is very proud of. She is very fond of children,
and of a quiet country life — that is the ideal she
looks for. The Emperor of Russia comes here on
the 5th, to join Aunt Marie at Petersthal. Louis'
work is incessant — the selling off of horses, the
changing garrisons of the regiments, the new forma-
tion of our division, causes almost more work than
the Mobilmachung [mobilization]. The entry was
very beautiful : the decorations of the town most
tasteful ; not a house or the smallest street which
was not covered with garlands, flags, and emblems.
There were large groups of the captured guns, and
the names of the battles on shields around. Unfor-
tunately, it poured nearly all the time, and we were
quite drenched. I had the five children in my car-
riage, and Irene gave wreaths to her godfathers of
the cavalry brigade. Two days ago we gave a large
military dinner, and have several soirees of that sort
to give before we can go into the country, which I
am longing for. We shall probably go to Seeheim,
as the summer seems too damp for Kranichstein.
The middle of Aufjust we shall ofo to Blanken-
berofhe, near Ostend, as the doctors wish sea-bathine
for Louis, and sea air for me and for some of the
children, which is very necessary to set us up before
Cfoinof to Scotland. We want to remain one or two
days and one night in London. We require a few
things, which make a stay necessary. If we might
be at Balmoral on the loth, as Louis' birthday is on
the I 2th, would that suit you "^
Please let me know in time if you think our plans
28o PRINCESS ALICE.
good. This will enable us to settle when to go to
Blankenbero-he, as we can't be there lonofer than
three weeks.
How I look forward to seeing you again, and to
come home once more ! It is so kind of you to let
us bring the children. The arrangement of the
rooms will do perfectly, and we don't care how we
are put up, and above all things don't wish to be in
the way.
The weather is horrid — rain and wind incessantly
— after having been tremendously hot. These sud-
den changes upset every one, and Frittie has had a
very slight return of his illness.
August 13th.
* * * The newest news is, that my nice excel-
lent Marie Grancy is going to marry. She will be
such a loss to me. These last years she has been so
useful, so amiable, and I shall miss her dreadfully.
She is going to marry Major von Hesse, who was
with us in Encrland the last time, and the weddine is
to be in September. As he has been ill in conse-
quence of the war, they will go to Italy and spend
the winter there.
We leave at eight to-morrow morning, reach
Cologne at one o'clock, and wait there till ten in the
evening, when we continue our journey and reach
Blankenberghe at eight next morning. Will you
kindly send a gentleman to Gravesend, who can re-
main with us in London, as we are quite alone ?
Uncle George, Aunt Cambridge, and Mary dined
with us at Frankfort two days ago. Mary I had
not seen for three years ; she was looking very
handsome.
Blankenberghe, August 17th.
Only two words to say that we arrived safe and
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 28 1
well here yesterday after a very hot journey. The
hotel is on the beach where we sit all day ; there
are no walks or 'any thing- save the beach, and no
trees. .Our rooms are very small and not very
clean ; but the heavenly sea air and the wind refresh
one, and the sands are very long. One can ride on
donkeys, which enchants young and old children.
Every one bathes together, and one has to take a
little run before the waves cover one. We bathed
with the three girls this morning, but I felt quite shy,
for all the people sit round and look on, and there
are great numbers of people here. Our children
play about with others and dig in the sand. Frittie
sleeps so v/ell since he has been here ; his color is
besfinninof to return.
We have one small sitting-room, which is our
dining-room, and Louis' dressing-room.
I was so sad and upset at taking leave of my dear
Marie Grancy the other day ; a kind true friend and
companion has she been to me these nine years, and
during the war she was quite invaluable to me. I
hope she will be as happy as she deserves to be.
Buckingham Palace, September loth.
The pleasure of seeing your dear handwriting
again has been so great ! Thank God that you are
going on well. I do feel so much for )ou, and for all
you have had to suffer in every way ! I trust entire
quiet and rest of mind and body, and any little atten-
tion that I may be able to offer for your comfort, will
make the autumn of real benefit for your health.
How I do look forward to seeing you again, I can't
say. ''^ '■' "'•■
We propose leaving the evening of the 13th.
Bertie and Uncle Georcre have arranged for our
going to Aldershot on Monday and Tuesday, which
282 PRINCESS ALICE.
interests Louis above all things, and I fancied this
arrangement would suit you best.
The journey has quite cured Frittie, without any
medicine, and the heat is over.
*^ * * I took Victoria and Ella to the Exhibi-
tion, and what enchanted Ella most was a policeman,
who was, as she said, " so very kind " in keeping the
crowd off. It reminded me of " Susy Pusy," which
dear Papa used to tease me with as a child.
We dined and lunched with Bertie, who had only
just arrived, and is gone again. Dear Arthur of
course I have not seen.
Bram's Hill Park Camp,
Cavalry Brigade, 2D Division,
September 12th.
In Bertie's tent I write these few lines to thank
you in Louis' name and my own a thousand times
for your dear kind letter. Every loving word is so
precious to us, and the presents you so kindly gave
Louis enchanted him. The pin, unfortunately, did
not arrive.
How I regret each time I hear you speak of your
illness ! I have been so anxious about you. Uncle
Louis and my parents-in-law, in their telegram of
to-day, enquire after you.
We have had two such interesting days ; the
country too lovely, each day in a quite different part.
We accompanied Uncle George, and in this way
have seen the two Divisions, and through sleeping
here will be enabled to see the third Division to-
morrow before returning to town.
I saw dear Arthur yesterday. He rode with me
all the time, and to-day we met him marching with
his company. How I have enjoyed seeing your
splendid troops again, I can't tell you ; but I shall
reserve all news till we meet.
AT HOME AND AT V/ORK. 283
Louis thanks you again and again for your kind-
ness, and only regrets not having seen you himself,
but is very grateful that we were allowed to stay a
few days at Buckingham Palace, through which we
were enabled to come here, which to him as a sol-
dier is of the very greatest interest. Bertie is full of
his work, and I think it interests him immensely.
He has charming officers about him, to help and
show him what to do. To our great disappointment
we did not see the 42d Highlanders, the " Black
Watch " to-day ; but yesterday we saw the Agyle-
shire 91st Highlanders, who gave Louise the present.
Bertie lent me a charming little horse, but the ground
is dreadful, and not having ridden for so long, and
being on horseback so many hours, makes me feel
quite stiff.
DuNROETN Castle, )
Sutherland, October 19th. j
I wish your telegram had brought me better news
of you. I really can't bear to think of you suffering,
and so much alone. I feel it quite wrong to have
left you, and my thoughts and wishes are continually
with you, and distract my attention from all I see here.
I can't tell you how much I feel for you at being
so helpless. It is such a trial to any one so active as
yourself ; but your trial must be drawing to a close,
and you will be rewarded in the end, I am sure, by
feeling perhaps even better and stronger than you
did before all your troubles.
I was nearly sick in the train, which is the slowest
I was ever in in my life, and was unable to go to
dinner ; but a long walk by the sea this morning
has quite set me up in spite of the extraordinary
warmth.
Sandringham, November 9th.
It is the first time since eleven years that I have
284 PRINCESS ALICE.
Spent Bertie's birthday with him, and though we are
only three of our own family together, still that is
better than nothing, and makes it seem more like
birthday. Bertie and Alix are so kind, and give us
so warm a welcome, showing how they like having
us, that it feels quite home. Indeed I pray earnestly
that God's blessing may rest on him, and that he
may be guided to do what is wise and right, so that
he may tide safely through the anxious times that
are before him, and in which we now live. They
are both charming hosts, and all the party suit well
together. The Westminsters and Brownlows are
here ; Lady B. is so very handsome.
We joined the shooting party for luncheon, and
the last beats out to-day and yesterday ; and the
weather is beautiful, though cold — a very bracing
air, like Scotland.
1872.
The Princess did not return to Darmstadt with
her children till the end of January, passing through
Brussels on her way. Prince Louis was invested
with the order of the Black Eagle at the " Kron-
ungs- und Ordensfest " at Berlin. Many of their re-
lations visited the Prince and Princess during the
early part of the year.
On the 6th of June another daughter was born,
and she was christened on the ist of July, the anni-
versary of her parents' wedding-day. Her names
were Victoria Alix Helena Louise Beatrice. The
sponsors were the Prince and Princess of Wales, the
Cesarewitch and Cesarewna, Princess Beatrice, the
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 285
Duchess of Cambridge, and the Landgravine of
Hesse. ^
In August the Crown Prince of Prussia paid his
first visit to Darmstadt since the war, and met with a
most loyal and hearty reception.
In consequence of the death of the Princess
Hohenlohe-Langenburg, the beloved half-sister of
the Queen, in September, the Prince and Princess
went to Baden to be present at the last sad cere-
mony, and to see their beloved aunt borne to her
rest.
A fortnight later the general assembly of the
various German societies for charitable purposes
held its first meetincr at Darmstadt.
All these societies, including the " Ladies' Union,"
founded by Princess Alice, had, in 1869, joined
themselves together to form one great body. Dur-
ing the year 1872 the Princess added another Insti-
tution to those she had already called into existence
— viz., an Orphan Asylum. A special committee of
ladies was at the head of it, to watch over it, and
also, if necessary, to advise and help those poor
orphans who had been boarded out in private families
at the expense of the parish. This institution has
aleady proved most successful, thanks to the readi-
ness with which the authorities met all Princess
Alice's wishes.
The general assembly at Darmstadt — the " Frauen-
tag " or " Ladies' Diet," as it was called — distin-
guished itself, not only by the extremely discreet
286 PJilNCESS ALICE.
and practical manner in which it carried out all the
many different branches of business which it had un-
dertaken, but also by the presence of several re-
markable persons interested in its aims and objects,
such as Madame Marie Simon, the founder and head
of the Institution for training nurses at Dresden, and
three English ladies. Miss Mary Carpenter, Miss
Florence Hill, and Miss Winkworth.
The subjects treated of at the general assembly
were the admission of women to the Post Office and
Telegraph Service ; the results of the working of F.
Froebel's principles for the further employment of
women ; of " Kindergarten " ; the finding of proper
localities for the exhibition and sale of women's
handiwork of all kinds ; nursing: as a branch of
female industry ; the provision of better schools for
girls, and what had been done, and was doing, in
Eno-land for female education and at similar institu-
tions.
The Princess followed all the discussions with the
keenest interest. She received all the members of
the different societies at her own palace, and for each
she had a kind and encourasfinof word.
None of those present will ever forget the sym-
pathy and encouragement they met with from the
Princess. She not only advised and suggested
things, but herself took the initiative in any impor-
tant question which came under her notice. The
general assembly did great credit to itself in the eyes
of Germany, and, indeed, of other countries as well,
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 28/
and its members were encouraged to still further
exertions. •
The Princess herself was full of new plans for
further eood works. At the beofinnine of November
Prince and Princess Louis were present at the un-
veiling of a monument erected to the memory of the
Hessian soldiers who fell in the war of 1870. The
Princess herself placed some wreaths at its base.
The 14th of December, the anniversary of the Prince
Consort's death, the Princess spent with her sister
the Crown Princess of Prussia, who had come to
Darmstadt from Carlsruhe for the purpose.
Darmstadt, January 21st.
* * * Louis returns to-morrow from Berlin.
He was the first to be invested by the Emperor, and
has met with great kindness. He was very glad to
have been there with dear Arthur, who seems to
please every one.
February 5th.
* * * It is a great pleasure to have dear
Arthur here. He is so amiable, civil, and nice, and
takes interest in all he sees, and is so pleasant to
have in the house. His visit will be very short, as
he gives up two days to go to Baden.
We gave small suppers on two evenings for
Arthur, and yesterday evening a celebrated, most
excellent violinist played quite as well as Joachim :
a friend of his, and a pupil of Spohr's. This after-
noon he is going to play some of Bach's celebrated
sonatas with and to me. Arthur enjoys music very
much, and keeps up his playing.
There is a dance at Uncle Alexander's to-night,
on Wednesday a Court ball, and on Friday one at
283 PRINCESS ALICE.
my parents-in-law. I can't stand the beat at all of
an evening, and the rooms are very hot. Louis,
who has an awful cold, took Arthur to see the bar-
racks, as all military things give him pleasure.
It is heavenly sunny weather, having been quite
dark and foggy all day yesterday.
April 20th.
^' * * Louis has been in Upper Hesse the last
four days s\\ooimg Azterhcihne, but as yet unsuccess-
fully. My mother-in-law is very grateful for your
kind message, and is better, though weak. She has
had a narrow escape from fever.
Frittie has again endless bruises, with lumps, as
Leo used to have; but he is taking iron, as Sir
William [Jenner] wished, and is strong and rosy and
well otherwise. I trust he may outgrow this.
June 17th.
Many thanks for your dear letter and kind wishes
for the birth of our baby ''• — a nice litde thing, like
Ella, only smaller and with finer features, though the
nose promises to be long. '^' ''' *
Kind Dr. Hofmeister was most attentive ; and of
course having him was far pleasanter than not, and
we owe you great thanks for having sent him. Mrs.
Clarke has been all one could wish.
Louis wrote as soon as he could, but this last week
he has only been home just before his dinner, and
was so tired that he invariably fell asleep. He has
gone out at six, returning at twelve, and has had
to be out before four in the afternoon, returning
at eight. He is away again to-day. Until the
1 5th of September his duty will be important, and
he has all the office work besides. It is double
* Princess Alix, born on the 6th of June.
A T HOME AND A T WORIC. 289
this year to what it usually is, as all people and things
are new since the war.
How sad the k)6s of those two poor children is,"^*
and the sweet litde " bairnie " of three ! The un-
fortunate mother to lose two in so dreadful a way !
I am sure it touched Beatrice much to see the poor
little one ; and in a child death so often loses every
thing" that is painful.
We think of calling- our litde girl " Alix " (Alice
they pronounce too dreadfully in German) " Helena
Louise Beatrice," and, if Beatrice may, we would
much like to have her as godmother.
Darmstadt, June 24th.
* * * "We both felt so truly for you when we
heard of dear Dr. Macleod's death, knowing what a
kind and valued friend of yours he was, and how fate
seems to take one friend after another, and before
aee can claim its rieht. He indeed deserves his
rest, for he did so much good in his life !
I feel rather weaker than usual this time, and sit-
ting and walking, though only a few steps, tries me
a good deal. I was out for half an hour yesterday,
and I think the air will do me good.
Louis left at half-past five this morning, and v/ill
be back by seven, I hope, this evening ; to-morrow
the same.
I will add Vicky's name to baby's others, as you
propose ; and " Alix " we gave for " Alice," as they
murder my name here : " Aliice " they pronounce
it, so we thought " Alix " could not so easily be
spoilt.
* Two children who were carried away by a " spate " while playincT at
Monaltrie IJurn, near Balmoral (iiih of June, 1872), and swept into the river
Dee and drowned. Sec " More Leaves from a Journal of a Life in the
Highlands," p. 156 et seq.
290 PH IN CESS ALICE.
Uncle Alexander is coming back shortly, and says
the Empress is not to return to Russia this winter,
and will be sent to Italy for the whole winter.
The heat has been quite dreadful ; there is a little
air to-day, though.
August 14th.
* * * Baby is like Ella, only smaller features,
and still darker eyes with very black lashes, and
reddish-brown hair. She is a sweet, merry little
person, always laughing, with a deep dimple in one
cheek just like Ernie.
We are going to Frankfort to-day to give Uncle
Georofe and Fritz Strelitz a luncheon in our Palais
there. Helene Renter comes to us for a month to-
morrow as lady.
I hope your Edinburgh visit will go off well. You
have never lived in Holyrood since 1S61, have you?
How I shall think of you at dear Balmoral, and
this time capable of enjoying it — not like last time,
when you had to suffer so much, and were unable to
do any thing. It quite spoiled our visit to see you
an invalid. Remember me' to all old friends there —
to Brown's kind old mother, and any who ask after us.
I shall think of you on dear Grandmama's birth-
day. She is never forgotten by any of us, and lives
on as a dearly-cherished memory of all that was good
and loving, and so kind. My children have her pic-
ture in their room, and I often tell them of her.
Kranichstein, August 20th.
I am very grateful for your telegrams from Edin-
burgh, and for Flora's [MacDonald] letter. It in-
terests me so much to know what you did there,
and I am very glad all went off so well. The people
will have been too delighted to have had you in
AT HOME AND AT WORK. 29 1
their midst again, and I am sure you enjoyed the
beauty of your fine northern capital anew after not
havine seen it for so longf a time. Beatrice seems
deho"hted with what she saw. I recollect those
many interesting and beautiful spots so well.*
The 1 8th was the anniversary of the dreadful
battle of Gravelotte, which cost so many lives, to our
division especially. We drove into town to the
military church, which was full of officers and men,
at half-past seven in the morning, and thought much
of the friends and acquaintances in their distant
graves, and of the desolate homes, until that day so
bright. My heart felt too full when we were singing
Eiii feste Burg, and I had my husband at my side,
whom the Almighty had graciously spared to my
children and myself. Gratitude seems barely enough
to express the intense depth of what I feel when I
think of that tinie, and how again and again I long
to give all and all to my good dear Louis and to our
children, for he is all that is good and true and pure.
* * * The children were much distressed at
the sad fate of my poor little bullfinch, who piped
beautifully. Louis had caught an owl and put it in
a wooden sort of a cage in the room where my bird
was. In the night it broke the bars and got loose
and tore the bullfinch's tail out, and the poor little
thing died in consequence.
Of our quiet country life there is little to tell. We
are a good deal out, always with our little people,
their pets — dogs, cats, ponies, donkeys ; it is rather
like a menagerie.
ScHLOSS Kranichstein, September 17th.
* * * Qpj Sunday the Moriers with their chil-
* For an account of this visit see " More Leaves from a Journal," p. 1C4
et seq.
292 PRINCESS ALICE.
dren were with us for the day. He looked so white
and reduced, walks on crutches, but retains, as
always, his spirits and his lively interest for all things.
He is a kind, warm-hearted man, to whom we are
both attached. Alice feels the loss of her poor
sister deeply, and says her father has been so cut up
about it.
We took them to races close by, and feared we
should be upset, the ground being very heavy and
uneven, and I was in terror for Mr. Morier, who was
in my carriage.
On the 9th there is a large meeting here of the
different associations existing throughout Germany
for the betterinof of women's education and social
position (of the middle class especially with regard
to trade). Some English ladies are coming, some
Swiss and Dutch. It will last four days, and be very
fatiguing. The programme I arranged with my
two committees here and the gentlemen at Berlin,
and they wanted to force me to preside ; but for so
large an assemblage — to me nearly all strangers — I
postively refused. I do that in my own Associa-
tions, but not where there are so many strangers,
who all want to talk, and all to cross purposes. It is
difficult enough to keep one's own people in order
when they disagree. I hope and trust I have pre-
vented all exaggerated and unfeminine views being
brought up, which to me are dreadful. These
Associations, if not reasonably led, tend too easily to
the ridiculous. My Associations take a great deal
of my time and thought, and require a good amount
of study. I hope and trust that what we are doing
here is the right thing. We have already had some
satisfactory results in the class of the workwomen,
and in the reform of the schools ; but there are many
A T HOME AND A T WORK.
293
open questions yet, which I hope this meeting, with
others who work in the same field, may help us to
solve.
Will you look through the programme? It would
please me so much, if I thought, you took a little
interest in my endeavors here in a very small way to
follow in a slight degree part of dear Papa's great
works for the good of others.
The meetincr at Berlin seems to have orone off
very well, and has pleased all Germans, who hope
for a consolidation of peace — so necessary to them.
We have an entire change of Ministry at Darm-
stadt, the first since 1848, which fills all with hopes
for an improvement in all the affairs of the Grand
Duchy.
Kranichstein, September 25th.
* * * y4// sympathize with you, and feel what
a loss to you darling Aunf^^ must be — how great
the gap in your life, how painful the absence of that
sympathy and love which united her life and yours
so closely.
Darling, kind Mama, I feel so acutely for you,
that my thoughts are incessantly with you, and my
prayers for comfort and support to be granted you in
the heavy trial are warm indeed. You have borne so
many hard losses with courage and resignation, that
for darling Aunt's sake you will do so again, and
knowing her at rest and peace will in time reconcile
you to the loss — all the more as her passing from
this world to another was so touchingly peaceful.
Dear Augusta [Stanley] wrote to me, which was a
great consolation, and we intend going to Baden to
pay our last token of respect and love.
* The Queen's half-sister, Feodorc, Princess of Hohenlohe-Langcnburg,
who died on the 23d of September, 1872, at Baden-Baden.
294 PRINCESS ALICE.
Darmstadt, October 13th,
* * * A few words about our doines here
may be of interest to you. The meeting went off
well, was very large, the subjects discussed were to
the purpose and important, and not one word of
the emancipated political side of the question was
touched upon by any one. Schools (those of the
lower, middle, and higher classes) for girls was the
principal theme ; the employment of women for post
and telegraph offices, etc.; the improvement neces-
sary in the education of nursery-maids, and the
knowledge of mothers in the treatment of little chil-
dren ; the question of nurses and nursing institutes.
The committees of the fifteen Associations met
Wedesday afternoon, and in the evening thirteen of
the members came to us to supper.
The public meeting on the following day lasted
from nine to two with a small interruption ; a com-
mittee meeting in the afternoon ; and that evening
all the members and guests came to us — nearly fifty
in number. The following day the meetings lasted
even longer, and the English ladies were kind
enough to speak — only think, old Miss Carpenter,
on all relating to women's work in England (she is
our guest here). Her account of the Queen's Insti-
tute at Dublin was most interesting. Miss Hill
(also our guest), about the boarding-out system for
orphans. Miss C. Winkworth, about higher educa-
tion in England. She mentioned also the new in-
stitution to which Louise now belongs, and is a
o
member of it herself. The ladies all spoke very
well ; the German ones remarkably so.
There was a good deal of work to finish after-
ward, and a good many members to see. They came
from all parts of Germany — many kind-hearted,
A T HOME A AD A T WORK. 295
noble, self denying women. The presence of the
English ladies — above all, of one such as Miss Car-
penter, who has done such good works for the refor-
mation of convicts — greatly enhanced the importance
of the meeting, and her great experience has been
of value to us all. She means still to give a lecture
on India and the state of the native schools there,
before leaving us.
I have still so much work in hand, that I fear my
letter is hurried and ill- written, but I hope you will
kindly excuse this.
To-morrow I am taking Miss Carpenter to all our
different schools, that she may see hov/ the different
systems in use work. Some are good, but none
particularly so ; there is much to improve.
Louis is gone to Mayence to-day for the inaugu-
ration of the Memorial which the town has erected to
the memory of dear excellent Waldemar Holstein,
for so many years its beloved Governor.
Darmstadt, October 24th.
You must indeed miss dear Aunt much, and feel
your thoughts drawn to her, whose precious
intercourse was such a solace and comfort to you.
It is nice for you to have Louise a little to your-
self === ^- *
You ask, if my mother-in-law talks with me about
the different woman's work in which I am interested.
Of course she does. We are so intimate together,
that even where we differ in opinion we yet talk of
every thing freely, and her opinion is of the greatest
value to me. She had ever been a most kind,
true, and loving mother, whom I respect and love
more and more. She was much pleased and inter-
ested in the success of the meeting, but is of course
296 PJ?INCESS ALICE.
as adverse as myself to all extreme views on such
subjects.
I have joined to my Nursing" Institute an Associa-
tion for watching over the orphans who are boarded-
out by the State into families, where some poor
children are unhappy and ill-used. The use of such
meetings as this one was consists mainly in the
interchange of experience made in the different
branches in other places, which it is impossible to
carry on by correspondence.
The schools are entirely different throughout Ger-
many — good and indifferent ; and those here do not
count among the best, as every thing, through the
long misrule of the late Government, is not what it
ought to be.
Uncle Louis has a new Ministry now, which gives
every one cause for hope.
Darmstadt, November 3d.
* "* * The weather is awful here ; the wind
sounds in the house as if one were at sea.
This article was sent me the other day, and
though I half fear s^^mmg 7inbeschciden [overbold],
yet, as you spoke of your feelings about women's
meetings the other day, I venture to send it.
Ella is writing to you herself to thank you for the
lovely bracelet, which gave me as much pleasure as
it did her. To think that she isalready eight! She is
handsomer than she was, and a clear child. * * *
They all give me pleasure, dear children, though of
course they have as many faults as others ; but they
are truthful and contented, and very affectionate.
Having them much with me, watching and guiding
their education — which, through our quiet and regular
life, is possible — I am able to know and understand
their different characters, for not one is like the
other.
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 297
Darmstadt, November 12th.
* * * We have the same weather here which
you seem to hav«, which for our long journey was
not pleasant. We took nearly twelve hours going,
and as much returning from Metz. For the inaugu-
ration itself the weather held up. The roads were
dreadful, and the wide plateau looked dreary and
sad — dotted all over with graves, like an enormous
churchyard.
The memorial is a dead lion in bronze, on a plain
pedestal, bearing an inscription on black marble in
front, and at the back all the names. Deputations
of officers and men were present, besides the
generals, etc., from Metz. The clergyman of the di-
vision read the prayers, preached a short and touch-
ing sermon, and the band played a chorale. Louis
spoke a few words, ending with the usual " Hoch"
for the Emperor and Grand Duke. I then laid some
wreaths at the foot of the Memorial from Louis'
parents and ourselves, and we drove back to Metz
across the different battlefields. The villages are all
built up again, and re-inhabited, so that few traces of
the dreadful struggle remain.
* * * The Empress of Russia wrote the other
day that the alliance with Marie * of Mecklenburg is
quite impossible, as she won't change her religion.
I hope all other German Princesses will follow her
example.
Darmstadt, December 12th.
For the 14th I write a few words. From year to
year they can but express the same ; the grief at the
loss of such a father, such a man, grows with me,
* Daughter of the Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin. Subsequently
she did marry the Grand Duke Vhidamir of Russia, as she was allowed not
to change her religion. This was the first time such a thing was permitted
in Russia.
298 FJilNCESS ALICE.
and leaves a gap and a want that nothing on earth
can ever fill up.
The deep, intense sympathy for what you, my
poor dear Mama, went through then and since, in
consequence of your bereavement, remains as vivid
as ever. God heard our prayers, and sustained you,
and through the healing hand of time softened your
grief, and retained you for us, who were too young
and too numerous to stand alone !
That our good sweet Alix should have been spared
this terrible grief, when this time last year it seemed
so imminent, fills my heart with gratitude for her
dear sake, as for yours, his children, and ours. That
time is as indelibly fixed on my memory as that of
1 86 1, when the witnessing of your grief rent my
heart so deeply. The 14th will now be a day of
mixed recollections and feelings to us — a day hal-
lowed in our family, when one great spirit ended his
work on earth — though his work can never die, and
generations will grow up and call his name blessed
— and when another was left to fulfil his duty and
mission, God grant, for the welfare of his own family
and of thousands.*
I have not time to write to dearest Bertie and Alix
to-day ; and as I love to think of them with you on
the 14th, so I would ask you to let them share these
lines full of sympathy for them, letting a remem-
brance of mCy who suffered with them, mingle with
your united prayers and thanks on this solemn day !
My little Fritz is at length better, but white and
thin, in consequence of his illness.
Christmas Day.
Your dear presents gave me so much pleasure ; I
* Who would have thought that only six years later the Princess herself
was to rejoin lier father on the same day ?
A T HOME AND A T WORK. 299
thank you again and again for them. The precious
souvenir of dear Aunt, and my Ernie's picture de-
light me. I assnre you, nothing has given me more
pleasure this Christmas.
Let me also thank you, in Louis' and the children's
names (meanwhile, until they do so themselves), for
your kind gifts to them. It makes us all so happy
and grateful, to be always so kindly remembered.
The boys were well enough to enjoy Christmas,
though rather pale and pulled — above all, sweet
Ernie.
We gave all our servants presents — the whole
household and stable — under the Christmas-tree,
which we made for the children ; and when the tree
is divided, the children of all our servants come and
share it with ours. It keeps the household as a
family, which is so important. We have fifty people
to give to !
Dear Beatrice's wishes (cards) pleased the children
very much, but Frittie lamented for a letter from
Auntie "for Frittie." He talks quite well now.
On Saturday we shall go for the day to Vicky. I
don't like leaving the boys for longer yet. I am so
glad Vicky gave such a flattering account of baby.
She is quite the personification of her nickname
" Sunny " — much like Ella, but a smaller head, and
livelier, with Ernie's dimple and expression.
TRIALS.
1873-1877.
" May the hour of trial and grief bring its blessing with it, and not have
come in vain ! The day passes so quickly, when one can do good and make
others happy — and one leaves always so much undone." (August 2, 1873.)
1873.
THIS year began brightly and happily to the
Prince and Princess, for little Prince Fritz,
whose health had often given rise to serious anxiety,
seemed strong-er and better. In March the Princess
at last was able to carry out her long-cherished wish
to visit Italy. She travelled incognita, accompanied
by Miss Hardinge and Hofrath Ruland. The jour-
ney was made in a comparatively short time, but was
thoroughly successful. The Princess travelled from
Darmstadt by Munich and the Brenner Pass to Flor-
ence, where she spent three days, and from there
went straight on to Rome.
During her stay in the " eternal city " she em-
ployed her mornings in visiting the many beautiful
picture-galleries, the churches, and the ruins of
ancient Rome. In the afternoons she made longer
excursions into the neighborhood, visiting the more
distant churches in the Campagna, as well as the
300
TRIALS. 301
celebrated villas of Albani, Liidovisi, Borghese, etc.
She used to spend her evenings in talking over and
discussing all the objects of interest she had seen
during the day. The Princess with her wonderful
power of observation was able to do a large amount
of sight-seeing in a comparatively short time. She
was accompanied by Monsignore Howard (now Car-
dinal Howard) over St, Peter's ; and he showed her
many interesting parts of this glorious edifice, which
in general are never shown to Protestants. At the
" Farnesina," the private palace of Count Bermudez,
she was received and conducted over it by the Count
himself. The ruins of Rome which interested the
Princess the most were those which dated from the
time of the first Christians, as far back as the early
mediaeval period, the catacombs of " San Callisto,"
and the curious church of" San Clemente." Amonest
the ceremonies of the " Holy Week " the Princess
was gready struck by " The Lamentations," whilst
others made her ask, as all Protestants do, how the
pure simple Christian religion could possibly be so
misrepresented. After attending all the grand cere-
monies of the Church of Rome, the quiet service at
the German Embassy made a most happy and peace-
ful impression on the Princess. She visited the
Pope, Pius IX., who received her with his usual
winning kindness.* She also went to the Ouirinal
to pay her respects to King Victor Emanuel, and to
the Crown Princess of Italy, Princess Margherita.
* He said to the Princess : " La benediction d'un vieillard fait touiours du
bien."
302 PRINCESS ALICE.
The two Princesses drove together through Rome
on the occasion of the celebration of its " birthday,"
and witnessed the illumination of the Capitol,
Forum, and Colosseum.
On the 13th of April the Princess made a brief
excursion to Sorrento by way of Naples, where her
father-in-law and the Empress ot Russia were stay-
ing. On the 24th of April she left with her suite for
Florence, travelling by way of Perugia and Lake
Thrasimene, through the valley of the Arno. As
she had but little time, she was only able to visit the
galleries of the Uffizi and Pitti Palaces, the tombs
of the Medici in San Lorenzo, the Convent of St.
Mark, the Cathedral, the Church of Santa Croce, and
the " Museo Nazionale."
The Princess left Italy on the 28th April, reaching
Darmstadt on the 2d of May.
Her journey had been one of thorough enjoyment,
and she felt deeply grateful that she had at last been
able to see with her own eyes those glorious works
of art, which from her childhood she had only been
able to picture dimly to herself.
The joy of her reunion with her family was, alas !
not to be of lonof duration. Prince Louis had been
obliged to leave Darmstadt early on the morning of
the 29th of May to inspect the troops in Upper
Hesse, leaving the Princess still in bed, exhausted
from the great fatigue of her Italian journey. The
two little Princes came to wish her "good-morning,"
and by her wish were left in her room by the nurse.
TRIALS. 303
The children soon began to play, as was their wont,
running in and out of the room into the adjacent
one, and looking from one window and then from
another. Prince Ernest having run into the next
room, the Princess followed him, leaving Prince
Fritz in her bedroom. During her almost momen-
tary absence he fell out of the window on to the
stone terrace below. Whether he had leaned too
far out of it and overbalanced himself, or whether in
runnino- fast throusfh the room to the window to look
for his brother he could not stop himself and fell from
it, no one actually knows. He was picked up in-
sensible, and died a few hours afterward in the arms
of his distracted mother. Effusion of blood on the
brain caused by the fall ended that young and bright
little life. The loss of this unusually-gifted and be-
loved child was a blow to the mother from which
she never recovered. Her married life had till then
been such a happy one, that this first sorrow came
on her with redoubled force.
On the evening of Whitsunday, June ist, the be-
loved little Prince was taken to his last resting-place,
at the Rosenhohe (the Grand Ducal Mausoleum), his
parents and sisters and brother being present. It
was very long before the Princess at all recovered
from the terrible shock of the death of her child,
though the sympathy shown to her by her family
and friends — indeed, by all — greatly comforted and
helped her.
In the autumn the Prince and Princess went to
304 PRINCESS ALICE.
Heiden in Appenzell for a little change. From
there they paid a visit to the Prince of Hohenzollern
at his castle of the Weinburg. At the end of No-
vember they went to England with their three
youngest children, and remained there till the 23d
of December, when they returned to Darmstadt.
Darmstadt, January 12th,
* * * We were both much shocked to hear of
the death of the Emperor Napoleon, and I must say
grieved ; personally he wasso,amiable,andshe is much
to be pitied. That he should die an exile in Eng-
land and, as Louis Phillippe did, is most striking. In
England the sympathy shown must touch the poor
Empress, and, as I telegraphed, we should be so
grateful to you, if you would kindly be the medium
through which both of us would like to express to
her how much we feel for her. How proud you
must ever be, in feeling that your country is the one
always able to offer a home and hospitality for those
driven away from their own countries ! England is
before all others in that ; and its warm sympathy for
those who are in misfortune is such a generous feel-
Fannie Baillie's Victoria is such a nice girl. She
comes to our children every Saturday, and is not
above playing at dolls with them, though she is so
much older. There are two rather nice little English
girls, daughters of the chaplin here, who come to
them.
February ist.
If any one will feel with us, I know you will do so
most. Since three days, with an interruption of one
day, poor Frittie has been bleeding incessantly from
a slight cut on his ear, which was nearly healed.
TRIALS. 305
Since yesterday evening we cannot stop it. All the
usual remedies were used, but as yet unavailing.
Just now the place has been touched again with
caustic and tighdy bound, after we had with great
trouble got rid of the quantity of dried blood from
his hair, ear, neck, etc. He is horrified at the sight
of so much blood, but shows great strength as yet
in spite of so great a loss. He is of course very
irritable, and, as he must not scream, one has to do
whatever he wishes, which will spoil him dreadfully.
I own I was much upset when I saw that he had this
tendency to bleed, and the anxiety for the future,
even if he gets well over this, will remain for years
to come. All have their trials, one or another, and,
please God, we shall bear whatever is sent without
complaining. To see one's own child suffer is for a
mother a great trial. With what pleasure one would
change places with the little one, and bear its pain !
February 6th,
* * * In the summer Fritz had a violent
attact of dysentery, which was so prevalent at Darm-
stadt, and off and on for two months it continued,
until Scodand stopped it ; and this illness made him
sensitive and delicate.
* * === What has caused him such great suffer-
ing has been that, what with the use of caustic, the
tight bandaging and the iron, a quantity of small
eatherinos formed on his cheek and neck, causinof
such an amount of pain that he could not remain in
bed or anywhere quiet for the two first days and
nights. Now they are drying off, the itching is such
that he don't know what to do with himself, and we
have the greatest difficulty in keeping hini from rub-
bing or scratching himself. The want of sleep through
pain, etc., has excited him very much, so that he has
306 FHINCESS ALICE.
been very difficult to manage. The bandages of
course cannot be removed, and great care will be
taken when they are removed, lest bleeding should
re-commence. He has been out twice a day as usual
all along, and his skin never quite lost its pinkness and
mottled appearance ; all of which are signs that he
has good blood and to spare, else he would look
worse and have shown weakness, which after all he
did not. -^ * *
He speaks well for his age, and is, alas ! very wild,
so that it will be impossible to keep him from having
accidents. * "^^ *
* * * I have been playing some lovely things
(very difficult) of Chopin lately, which I know you
would admire.
Darmstadt, February 19th,
My best thanks for 3^our dear letter ! That I for-
got to thank you at once for dear Grandmama's very
beautiful print * came from my having the litho-
graph of that picture in my room always before me, and,
though the print far surpasses it, I am so fond of the
lithograph, that I forgot the print at the moment I
was writing to you. Before that dear picture, the
painting of which I recollect so well, my children
often sit, and I tell them of her who was and ever
will be so inexpressibly dear to us all. In the school-
room, in my sitting-room, in the nursery, there is,
with the pictures of you and dear Papa, always one of
dear Grandmama, and, in my room and the school-
room, the Duke of Kent also.
My sitting-room has only prints and lithographs,
all Winterhalters, of the family : you and Papa, your
receiving the Sacrament at the Coronation, Raphael's
* A private plate, engraved for the Queen by the late Mr. Francis Holl,
from a picture by Winterhalter.
TRIALS. IQ'J
" Disputa" and " Bella Jardinierre," and the lovely
litde engraving of yourself from Winterhalter's pic-
ture in Papa's room at Windsor.*
Vicky is coming here on Wednesday. The Grand
Duke of Weimar has kindly allowed Mr. Ruland to
join us as cicerone : which for galleries, etc., is very
necessary, and we take no courier. Rome is our
first halting-place in Italy, and for years it has been
my dream and wish to be in that wonderful city,
where the glorious monuments of antiquity and of
the Middle Ages carry one back to those marvel-
lous times.
I am learning Italian, and studying the history and
art necessary to enable me, in the short time we
have, to see and understand the finest and most im-
portant monuments. I am so entirely absorbed and
interested in these studies just now, that I have not
much time for other things. IMy father-in-law, per-
haps Princess Charles too, will be with Aunt Marie
of Russia at Sorrento then. William will probably
join us at Rome ; he is quite a connoisseur in art,
and a good historian, quite at home in Rome, about
which he raves. I must say that I look forward im-
mensely to this journey ; it opens a whole new life
to one. '
Kanne has made all arrangements for us at Rome.
We shall leave here about the iSth of March.
Rome, Hotel Allemagne, March 27th.
* * === We left the dear children well, but very
sorry at parting. The two days at Munich were
most interesting. The National Museum in its way
surpasses any I have ever seen, and in originals is
* Also engraved by the late Mr. Francis IIoll for the Queen from a pic-
ture given by Her Majesty to the Prince Consort on the 26th of August,
1843.
308 PRINCESS ALICE.
richer even than South Kensington. Aunt Marie-
chen was very kind and dear ; the . Moriers very
amiable hosts, and we met some interesting people
there. Two hours before we left, after eieht in the
evening, Ludwig and Otto * came to us and re-
mained some time.
The Brenner, over which we came, was covered
with snow — most beautiful scenery, like St. Moritz
in the Engadine. The journey was very fatiguing.
We had a morning for Bologna, and had to wait
three hours at Florence for the nigrht train — time
enough to drive round and in the town, which is
most lovely. What trees, mountains, colors ! then
the fine buildino-s !
The followinor mornino;- at six we reached Rome.
The sun was bright, the distance blue — the grand
ruins dark and sharp against the sky, cypresses, stone
pines, large cork oaks, making up such a beautiful
picture. Every day I admire the scenery more and
more ; every little bit of architecture, broken or
whole, with a glimpse of the Campagna, a picturesque
dirty peasant and a dark tree close by, is a picture
in itself which one would like to frame and hang up
in one's room. It is too, too beautiful ! To tell you
all we have seen and are seeing would tire you.
Bertie and Arthur's descriptions, too, so lately have
told you the same.
The Via Appia, the grand old road lined with
ruins of splendid tombs, leading from Albano through
the Campagna to Rome, along which St. Paul went,
and the great kings and emperors made their trium-
phal entries, is a fit one to lead to such a city as
Rome, which ruled the world.
The antique monuments, those of the Middle
* The King of Bavaria and his brother, first cousins of Prince Louis of
Hesse.
TRIALS.
309
Ages, are so magnificent and interesting that as yet
I don't know which to mention first or admire most!
Our incognito* did not last long (though even now
we maintain it), for the Crown Princess heard of us
and came to see us, as did the Crown Prince, and we
had to go to the Quirinal, a morning visit without
entoiLra.o'e.
Palm Sunday, Rome, April 6th.
* * * We saw the besfinningf of mass and
blessing of the palnis in St. Peter's this morning,
with a procession and beautiful singing. Whilst the
procession, with part of the choristers, go outside the
church, some remain within, and they respond to
each other, which produces a very striking effect.
In spite of the bad style inside of St. Peter's, as a
whole it produces a marvellous effect through its
wonderful size and richness of decoration.
I saw two convents yesterday : the Sepolte Vive,
which Bertie and Alix saw, and where the nuns asked
much after him, and said that he was molto amabile ;
and another equally strict one, but not austere,
where the Superior told me that Aunt Feodore with
Princess Hohenzollern had paid them a visit. Mon-
signore Howard was the only gentleman with me
and the ladies, as they never see any men. Their
idea is, that they spend the whole of their life in con-
templation and prayer, so as to pray for those who
cannot pray for themselves.
The museums of the Vatican and of the Capitol,
with their enormous collection of antiques, are very
fine. The celebrated Venus, Apollo Belvidere, the
Torso (which Michael Angelo admired so much, and
was taken to touch when he could no more see it),
the wounded Gladiator, etc., are there. The Sistine
Chapel, with Michael Angelo's frescoes, which are
3IO PRINCESS ALICE.
certainly the most marvellous pieces of painting and
conception, is very dark, and the frescoes are suffer-
ing much from the smoke, dust, etc. Raphael's
Stanze are far better preserved, and lighter than I
had expected, and of such beauty !
I thought so often and so much of dear Papa,
when I saw the originals of all the pictures he so
much admired and took such interest in. How this
alone fascinates me I cannot tell you. In these gal-
leries and churches there is only too much to be
seen, besides the antique ruins, etc. You would be
terrified to see how full our day is from before nine.
Mr. Ruland is an excellent cicerone for pictures and
sculptures. William is with us here since last Sun-
day.
We are sfoinof to the Villa Ludovisi this afternoon.
The gardens of the Villa Doria Pamfili are most
beautiful : the terraces there remind me of Osborne.
I can see in many things where dear Papa got his
ideas from for Osborne and for his decorations,
which Professor Gruner understood so well to carry
out.
Many thanks for your having told Lady Churchill
to send me an account of your opening of the Park.*
I am glad that all went off so well, and that you were
not the worse for it.
I have quite refused going to Naples. We shall
arrange probably to go for two days to Castellamare
(one hour from Naples) ; from thence to Sorrento
and Pompeii, and return here. As yet it is not hot
here at all.
Rome, April 9th.
Let me thank you for your letter written on our
* The opening of Victoria Park, in the East end of London, on the 2d of
April.
TRIALS. 3 1 1
dear Victoria's birthday. I have never been away
from her on her birthday before, and though we see
such fine interestmg things, yet I feel very homesick
for the dear children always. In three weeks or less
I shall see them again. I look forward all the time
with perfect impatience, as I am so rarely separated
from them, and we live so much together. Every
other day Fraulein Kitz and Orchard write, so that
I have news daily.
Louis' father wrote me to-day, as his sister asks
us to her house at Sorrento for one or two nisfhts
for the 1 2th ; but as I was rather deranged from a
sick headache yesterday, I shall wait a day before
we decide. It is wet and quite cold to-day.
We visited San Clemente two days ago, and
Father Mulooly took us through the three churches —
one under the other. The antique one was full of
water, and we walked about on rickety planks, each
with a lighted taper, as it is quite dark there. It is
most curious, and the old paintings on the walls tell-
ing the legend of St. Clement are wonderfully full of
expression and feeling for the time they were done.
Rome, April 19th.
* * * Our visit to Sorrento went off well.
We got there at one on Monday morning for lunch-
eon. The sun had given me a dreadful headache,
which ended in sickness, so that I could not leave
my room. Marie sat with me, and was very dear
and kind. The next day, she and my Aunt, who
seems tired and dispirited, had bad headaches. We
went with my father-in-law and some of the ladies
and gentlemen on the following afternoon in the
Empress' yacht to Capri, close by, to see the blue
grotto.
The Bay of Naples, particularly seen from Sor-
312 FHINCESS ALICE.
rento, is most lovely — like a beautiful dream — the
colors, the outlines are so perfect.
We breakfasted together in the morning with
Aunt and Marie, and on Tuesday we took our leave.
We shall go to Florence the 23d, (the first station
homeward) ; remain there three or four days ; one
night at Verona, and then home. It is a fatiguing
journey, and we have so often had people in the
carriage, which is very unpleasant — some very rude
English, going to Sorrento ; they did not know us.
Florence, April 25th,
Your kind wishes I received early this morning.
Thousand thanks for them, and for the presents
which I shall find on getting home.
I shall be so glad to have a large photograph of
yourself. Thirty years ! Good-bye, youth ! but I
feel quite as old as I am, though the time has flown
by so fast. I would it had flown as well as it has
fast ! I look back to the past with great gratitude to
the Almighty for innumerable blessings, and pray
our life may continue so blest. I have a very bad
headache — neuralgia ; I have it continually ; and the
journey is very long and tiring. Darling Ernie
wanted to buy something for my birthday, and he
thought a china doll with a bath would be the best.
I am glad Victoria remembered to write to Beatrice
as I told her; they are very fond of their Auntie.
Florence seems a beautiful town, and the situation
amongst the hills, over which the suburbs spread, is
most picturesque.
I enclose the last telegrams from Sorrento. It is
Jievre du pays which Marie had. We remained at
Rome a day longer on account of poor Alfred. He
is very patient and hopeful.
The King, whom we saw at the races, sends you
TRIALS. 313
his respects, and was delighted with the cream-
colored horse you sent him. Many thanks for the
flowers. I enclose two from here. The account of
your giving- away the colors " I had already read
with interest.
We must eo to the Grand Duchess Marie to-mor-
row ; Monday to Verona, twelve hours ; next morn-
ing to Munich, and that night to Darmstadt. How
I look forward to seeinof the dear children ! It seems
to me an age since we parted.
Darmstadt, June 9th,
Tender thanks for your last letter, and for every
word of sympathy! The weary days drag on, and
bring much pain at times, though there are moments
of comfort, and even consolation.
The horror of my darling's sudden death f at
times torments me too much, particularly waking of
a morning ; but when I think he is at rest, free from
the sorrow we are suffering, and from every evil to
come, I feel quite resigned. He was such a bright
child. It seems so quiet next door ; I miss the little
feet, the coming to me, for we lived so much to-
gether, and Ernie feels so lost, poor love.
We were at the Mausoleum with all the children
yesterday evening. It is a quiet spot amidst trees
and flowers, with a lovely view toward the hills and
plain. He loved flowers so much. I can't see one
along the roadside without wishing to pick it for him.
There is a young sculptor from Stuttgart, who
was accidently here, and, meeting the children, had
asked permission to make medallions of them. The
* To the 79th Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders, at Parkhurst, on the
l6lh (if April.
f The allusion is to the death of the little Prince Frederick, who v/as
killed on the 2glh of the previous monlli by a fall from a window.
314 • PRINCESS ALICE.
last afternoon sweet Frittie had sat to him, and he is
now making a lovely bust of him, which is getting
very like.
On Wednesday my mother-in-law, with her three
sons, goes to Berlin ; on Thursday Uncle Adalbert"
\\\\\ be buried in the Dom.
We sha'n't be able to go to Seeheim until Satur-
day.
How too kind of you to have asked us to Osborne !
How a rest and home air would have revived me —
and the pleasure of seeing you again ; but Louis
cannot leave until after his birthday. If he did get
leave, it would so throw him out before he has to
command; and, having been absent this spring, he
feels it an impossibility, and this I am sure you will
understand. I could not leave him or the children.
Our circle has grown smaller, and drawn us all the
more together with a dread of parting from each
other. We thank you a thousand times for the kind
offer.
Seeheim, June 22d.
* :i: * I (Jq earnestly hope that too long a
time may not elapse before we meet.
It is \ery hot, and I feel very low and unhappy.
To-morrow this house will be full, and all the
Russians, etc., close by. Had there only been any
other quiet country place to be at, how gladly would
I have escaped this.
■^ '=' * It is only three weeks to-day since we
took our darling to his last resting-place ! I wish I
could go there to-day, but it is too hot and too
far.
Fritz and Louise of Baden came two days ago to
Darmstadt, to see my parents-in-law and us.
* Princess Charles' brother, Prince Adalbert of Prussia,
TRIALS. 3 1 5
«
Dr. Macleod's letter is very kind.
I enclose two photographs of dear Frittie out of
groups, the negative of one of which unluckily does
not exist any more. The little blouse is the one he
had on on that terrible day. My darling sweet
child — to have lost him so ! To my grave shall I
carry this sorrow with me.
In the book you sent me there is a fine poem by
Miss Procter, " Our grief, our friend," called " Friend
Sorrow," which expresses so much what I myself feel
about a deep grief.
Seeheim, June 27th.
* * * It was just four weeks yesterday since
our darling died, and we went to the Mausoleum. I
felt the whole weight of my sorrow, and the terrible
shock doubly again. But the precious child does
not — that is a comfort. He is happy and at rest,
whilst we grieve and mourn. Ernie always prays for
Frittie, and talks to mc of him when we walk together.
Aunt Marie arrived at two on Monday, and a few
hours later came to see me, and was so sympathizing,
motherly, and loving ; it touched me much. At such
moments she is peculiarly soft and womanly, and she
loves her own children so tenderly. She cried much,
and told me of the sad death of her eldest girl, who
was seven, and of the terrible, irreparable loss her
eldest son was to her. She has such a religious,
truly resigned way of looking at great sorrows such
as these. In the room I am now living in Aunt
Marie had seen Frittie in his bath two years ago,
and she remembered all about him. She is coming
to " Sunshine's" toilet this evening; it always amuses
her, and she is very fond of the children.
Seeheim, July plh.
* * * There are days which seem harder than
3l6 PRINCESS ALICE.
Others, and when I feel very heartsick, prayer and
quiet and solitude do me good.
I hear Afiie comes on Thursday night. This
evening the Emperor arrives. Poor Marie"'" is very
happy, and so quiet. ^' * * How I feel for the
parents, this only daughter (a character of Hi7igeb2tng
[perfect devotion] to those she loves), the last child
entirely at home, as the parents are so much away
that the two youngest, on account of their studies,
no more travel about.
Seeheim, July 26th,
* * * I am glad that you have a little colored
picture of my darling. I feel lower and sadder than
ever, and miss him so much, so continually. There
is such a gap between Ernie and Sunny, and the
two boys were such a pretty pair, and were become
such companions. Having so many girls, I was so
proud of our two boys ! The pleasure did not last
long, but he is rame more than ever now. He seems
near me always, and I carry his precious image in
my heart everywhere. That can never fade or die I
Seeheim, August 2d.
Many thanks for your dear letter ! I am feeling
so low and weak to-day that kind words are doubly
soothing. You feel so with me, when you under-
stand how long and deep my grief must be. And
does one not grow to love one's grief, as having be-
come part of the being one loved — as if through this
one could still pay a tribute of love to them, to make
up for the terrible loss, and missing of not being able
to do any thing for the beloved one any more ? ^ I
* The Grand Duchess Marie, who was engaged on the iilh of July to the
Duke of Edinburgh.
•J- How these words recall those of Constance {King John, act iii., scene 4)-
Grief fills the room up of my absent child,
Lies in his bed, walks up and down with me.
TRIALS. 317
am so much with my children, and am so accustomed
to care for them and their wants daily, that I miss
not having Frittie, the object of our greatest care,
far more than words can describe ; and in the quiet
of our every-day life, where we have only the children
around us, it is doubly and trebly felt, and is a sor-
row that has entered into the very heart of our
existence.
May the hour of trial and grief bring its blessing
with it, and not have come in vain ! The day passes
so quickly, when one can do good and make others
happy, and one leaves always so much undone. I
feel more than ever, one should put nothing off; and
children grow up so quickly and leave one, and I
would long that mine should take nothing but the
recollection of love and happiness from their home
with them into the world's fight, knowing that they
have there always a safe harbor, and open arms to
comfort and encourage them when they are in
trouble. I do hope that this may become the case,
though the lesson for parents is so difficult, being
continually ^zV/;/^, without always finding the return.
Dear Fannie Baillie has been a few days here, and
goes to England to-day. I shall miss her so much.
I am so very fond of her. I hope you will see her ;
she will bring you many messages from us.
Seeheim, August 13th.
* * * After endless difficulties it has been
settled that we can go to the Mainau. I am so far
from strong and well that a change is necessary, and
we shall go on the i5th, as Louise of Baden pro-
posed, and I have written this to her.
Puts on his pretty looks, repeats his words,
Remembers me of all Ills gracious parts,
Stuffs out his vacant garments with his form ;
Then have I reason to be fond of grief.
3l8 PRINCESS ALICE.
How you will enjoy the rest at Balmoral ! After
so much going on you must require it.
Helen e Renter is coming here for a fortnight with
her boy — Ernest's age. Poor boy, he longs for a
playfellow.
Seeheim, August i6th.
* * * Louis joins with me in saying that we
shall gratefully accept your wish that we should
come to Windsor, and he trusts there will be no
difficulties for leave then. * * -5^
Seeheim, September 7th.
* '"" ^ You ask if I can play yet? I feel as if
I could not, and I have not yet done so. In my
own house it seems to me as if I never could play
again on that piano, where little hands were nearly
always thrust when I wanted to play. Away from
home — in England — much sooner, I had played so
often lately that splendid, touching funeral march of
Chopin's, and I remember it is the last thing I
played, and then the boys were running in the
room.
Mary Teck came to see me and remained two
nights, so warm-hearted and sympathizing. I like
to talk of him to those who love children, and can
understand how great the gap, how intense the pain,
the endinof of a little bright existence causes.
Soon I shall have my Louis back. I long for him
very much ; but the change of air, the active
out-door life, and being quite thrown into men's
society and occupations, must refresh body and
mind. Here he has only me, the governess and
children as Umgang. But he is what the Germans
call eiii Hatishainincl — it is what he likes best.
We shall do nothing for his birthday. The chil-
TRIALS. 319
dren will recite their poems and write little things,
and his parents wUl come to our five o'clock tea.
Heiden, Appenzell, October yth.
How kind of you to remember our darling's birth-
day ; we both thank you for this. Sad and many are
our thoughts. I think of my loneliness and anxiety
when he was born, with Louis far away in the midst
of danger — a sad and awful time to come into the
world ; but sweet Frittie was my comfort and occu-
pation, a second son, a pleasure to us both ! Now all
this is wiped out, and our parents' hearts are sore,
and askingr for the dear bright face we miss so much
from amoncfst our circle of children ! He ended his
fight very soon. May we all follow in a way as
peaceful, with as little struggle and pain, and leave
an image of as much love and brightness behind,
to be a blessed remembrance for the rest of our
lives !
I can't write on any other subject to-day, there-
fore close these short lines with much love from
your devoted child, Alice.
Darmstadt, November 14th.
* * * It is very kind of you to ask about the
rooms. I should prefer living in the tapestry rooms
this time. It won't be like the last time — though
after our house here, so full of happy and heart-rend-
ing recollections, I go through continual pangs,
which it will take many a year to soften down, as
you can understand.
Buckingham Palace, December 20th.
Beloved Mama : — How much I thank you for
your dear precious letter, and for all the true love
and considerate sympathy you showed me during
320 PRINCESS ALICE.
our visit ! It has soothed and comforted me, I
assure you, and will be a pleasure and satisfaction
for me to look back to the many pleasant talks we
had tocrether.
Louis, who has always been so devoted to you,
was touched to tears, as I was, by your expressions
of love to us and to our children.
Thank you also for all advice, which is so precious
to me, and in following it I shall like to think that I
am doing something that you told me.
How much I felt in parting from you I cannot
say. Neither did I like to speak of it, for it was too
much, and the harder things in life are better borne
in silence, as none can bear them for one, and they
must be fought out by one's self.
Ernie and Irene send endless loves to vou, to
Uncle and Auntie. Sunny 's hand is better.
Tilla came to see me yesterday, and we both
drove with her to the Memorial.*
-X- .-;: :;: 'piigj-g \^ gQ niuch I would run on about,
now the dear habit of intercourse toirether has once
more become so natural to me. Writinof is at best
a poor remplagaiiL
Once more from both of us warm and tender
thanks for so much love and kindness! Love to
Leopold and Beatrice ; kind remembrances to all
who surround you ! From your grateful and de-
voted child, Alice.
Buckingham Palace, December 21st.
* * * It is fine and warm and still. I hope it
will be so early to-morrow when we cross over. I
shall telegraph how the passage has been.
Please thank Brown for his kind wishes. I am so
sorry that I missed saying good-bye to several. To
* To the Prince Consort in Hyde Park.
TRIALS. 321
say the truth, I dreaded it. It is always so painful.
The old Baron's* way of disappearing was almost
the best. *"
1874.
During the first months of this year the Princess
had the comfort of seeing many of her relations.
The year was chiefly spent in retirement, and de-
voted to many sad memories. On the 24th of May
she gave birth to a daughter, whose christening took
place on the nth of July at Jugenheim, near Darm-
stadt, in the presence of the Empress of Russia and
the Duke of Edinburgh. The child received the
names of Marie Victoria Feodora Leopoldine.
The hottest part of the summer was spent at Blank-
enberghe for the use of sea-baths. In September
the great manoeuvres of the Eleventh Army Corps
took place in Upper Hesse, where the Princess met
the Emperor of Germany.
The Princess' charitable institutions were all pros-
pering, and assuming larger and larger proportions ;
amongst them the Princess' own hospital was by de-
grees slowly approaching completion. It was the
institution she had the most at heart. It was intended
to be a traininof-school for those who intended to
become nurses, and a home for probationers whose
training was at an end. It was also to serve as a
model of those reforms in sanitary arrangements
which the Princess had so much at heart.
* Baron Slockmar had such a dislike of leave-takings that he never let it
be known when lie w.-is going away from the Englisli Court. The first inti-
mation of his intention was — that he was already gone.
322 PRINCESS ALICE.
When the provisional English hospital at Darm-
stadt (already mentioned during the war in 1870)
had been taken over by the Hessian authorities, all
its furniture, appointments, etc., were left to the
" Alice Ladies' Union " for the small hospital which
it had started, aided by a small body of doctors in
Darmstadt. This was the origin of the " Alice Hos-
pital," begun in a very small humble way in a cramped
Httle house in the Mauer-Strasse. The Frauen-Verein
had undertaken, when the English National Society
for Aid to the Sick and Wounded had made over
their hospital to them, either to build quite a new
one or thoroughly to reorganize the existing one on
the Mauer-Strasse. There were no funds to build a
new hospital ; therefore the " Alice Ladies' Union,"
could only resort to the other alternative, and this
was carried out to the letter, by additional buildings
and a totally new arrangement of its interior. As
time went on, it was found advisable to eive the
hospital a dictinct administration, and to separate it
from the " Alice Ladies' Union," placing special
funds at its disposal. This never would have come
to pass, nor would the hospital have proved the suc-
cess it did, had it not been for the untiring zeal,
perseverance, economy, and practical knowledge of
the lady directing it. During the summer months
of 1874, a lady well acquainted with German and
English hospitals — a trained nurse herself — became
Lady Superintendent of the training - school for
nurses, and of the hospital generally, which gradual-
ly, but surely, was gaining in importance.
TRIALS. 323
The Alice Union for the Employment of Women
made a further step in advance during" this year, and
established itself on a firm broad basis under the
name of "The Alice Society for the Education and
Employment of Women of all Classes." Of this the
Princess was the President, whilst Fraulein Louise
Biichner directed the whole. The gentlemen and
ladies who formed the committee were chosen by
the Princess. All worked most harmoniously to-
gether; and the Princess was as anxious to receive
advice from others in matters concerning the society
as she was glad to give it herself.
Darmstadt, January 12th.
* * * Hoiu low and miserable I am at times in
these rooms, particularly when I go to bed, I cannot
tell you ! The impression of all is so vivid and
heart-rending. I could cry out for pain sometimes.
Till the first year is round this will often return, I
know, and must be borne as part of the sorrow !
January i6th.
* * M: J l^now well what your grief and your
bereavement were compared to mine ; but they are
such different sorrows, I don't think one can well
compare them. Your life was broken — upset :
altered from the very roots, through the one you
lost ; my life is unchanged, save in the mother's
heart the blank, the pain which thousands of little
things awaken — which by the world, even by the
family, are scarcely felt ; and this ofttimes loneliness
of sentiment clouds one's life over with a quiet
sorrow which is felt in evay thing. * * *
Darmstadt, January 23d.
On our dear Affie's [Prince Alfred's] wedding-
324 PRINCESS ALICE.
day, a few tender words. It must seem so strange
to you not to be near him. My thoughts are con-
stantly with them all, and we have only the Times
account, for no one writes here — they are all too
busy, and of course all news comes to you. What
has Augusta [Lady Augusta Stanley] written, and
Vicky and Bertie ? Any extracts or other news-
paper accounts but what we see would be most
welcome.
We give a dinner to-night to the family and
e7itoiiraze, and Russian and EnHish letrations. * * •^
Louis sends you his love and warmest wishes for
yourself and the happiness of the dear pair, in which
I most earnestly join. God bless and protect them,
and may all turn out well !
Darmstadt, January 28th,
* * * Dear Marie [the Duchess of Edinburgh]
seems to make the same impression on all. How
glad I am she is so quite what I thought and hoped.
Such a wife must make Affie happy, and do him
good, and be a great pleasure to yourself, which I
always like to think. I shall read to my mother-in-
law the letters, and show them to Bauerlein. Both
will be very grateful for being allowed to see them.
We are going from Saturday to Monday to Carls-
ruhe. The eldest girls and Bauerlein, who is going
to take charge of them for a week, are going with us.
* * * One day we have six degrees of heat,
the next two or four of cold ; it is very unwhole-
some.
Carlsruhe, February 2d.
I have a little time before breakfast to thank you
so very much for the enclosures, also the Dean's
[Stanley] letter through dear Beatrice. We are most
grateful lor being allowed to hear these most interest-
TRIALS. . 325
ing- reports ! It brings every thing so much nearer.
How pleasant it is to receive only satisfactory re-
ports ! I fear Aunt Marie is far from well. I should
be very anxious, for she is like a fading flower.
All the family, Hohenlohes and Holsteins, send
their duty. All their respective children and ours
were together yesterday afternoon. I hope not to
seem vain, if it strikes me that amongst all the children
my girls usually carry away the palm. Victoria is in
such good looks at present ; they are both natural
and real children, and as such I hope to be able to
retain them long.
Sophie Weiss * came to see me yesterday. I was
very glad to be able to give her so good an account
of you, and how young you looked when I had that
great happiness of those few short days at Windsor,
which did me good in every respect. Old Frau von
Bunsen, now eighty-three, I went to see — such a
charming old lady, fresh in her mind, with snow-
white hair. You and Papa were the topic she en-
joyed speaking about, and our brothers and sisters.
Darmstadt, March 2d.
* * * My nice Miss Graves I could so well
have taken when Kitty left, but I was so anxious
for a German, though I was much inclined toward
her ; I thought a German more important than it
really is. Not the nationality but the individuality
is the first thing ; and here I think I have succeeded
in finding the right person. * * *
Darmstadt, March nth.
"^' '^^ " I hope you w^ere not the worst for all
your exertions. The Times accounts are charming.
Such a warm reception must have touched Marie,
* A former Dresser of llie Queen's.
326 PRINCESS ALICE.
and shown how the Enghsh chng to their Sovereign
and her house.
We have cold, snow, and dust, after quite warm
weather. I trust you will have sunshine to-morrow.
This last fortnight the news from Ashantee has so
absorbed our thouohts. It has been an arduous un-
dertaking, and one's heart warms to our dear troops,
who under all difficulties sustain their old name for
bravery and endurance. The poor 42d [Regiment]
lost many through illness, too ; and I see they en-
tered Coomassie playing the bagpipes !
Louis is just reading to me Sir Hope Grant's book
on the Indian Mutiny, which he kindly sent me, and
which is interesting and pleasant to read.
I am taking the first snowdrops to sweet Frittie's
grave. Hozv the first flowers he so dearly loved
bring tears to my eyes, and recollections which
wring my heart anew ! I dread these two next
months with their flowers and their birds. Good
bye, darling Mama.
Darmstadt, April 7th,
* * * Surely Marie must feel it very deeply,
for to leave so delicate and loving a mother must
seem almost wrong. How strange this side of hu-
man nature always seems — leaving all you love most,
know best, owe all debts of gratitude to, for the com-
paratively unknown ! The lot of parents is indeed
hard, and of such self-sacrifice.
April nth,
* * * The children are too much an object
here ; they have too little to compare with ; they
would be benefited by a change, seeing other things
and people, else they get into a groove, which I know
is not good. They are very unspoilt in their tastes,
and simple and quiet children, which I think of the
greatest importance.
TRIALS. 327
Louis Battenberg has passed a first-rate examina-
tion. The parents are so happy, and the influence
the good conduct and steady work of the elder
brother 1 as on the younger is of the greatest use,
as they wish to follow him, and be as well spoken of,
and please their parents, as he does. * ''^ *
April 15th.
My best thanks for your dear letter of the 1 3th.
You say rightly, what a fault it is of parents to bring
up their daughters with the main object of marrying
them. This is said to be a too prominent feature in
the modern English education of the hiMier classes.
■^^ * * I want to strive to bring up the girls
without seeking this as the sole object for the future —
to feel they can fill up their lives so well otherwise.
■K- -x- * ^ marriaofe for the sake of marriaee is
surely the greatest mistake a woman can make * * *
I know what an absorbinof feelinof that of devotion to
one's parent is. When I was at home, it filled my
whole soul. It does still, in a great degree, and
Heiniweh [homesickness] does not cease after ever
so long an absence. * * *
Darmstadt, April 23d.
* * '^ I thought so much of your remarks
about daughters, etc., and do think it so natural and
dutiful to remain with one's parent as long as one is
wanted. Is it not a duty when no one else can take
one's place ? I should feel it so.
April 26th.
I thank you most tenderly for your loving wishes
for my birthday, received on getting up yesterday
morning. You can understand that the day was in-
expressibly sad, that the fair head missing in our
circle was painfully felt, and that all these recollec-
328 PRINCESS ALICE.
tions caused me endless tears and heartache — though
not for him, sweet precious child.
As you say, life at best is a struggle ; happy those
who can lie down to rest, having fought their battle
well ; or those who have been spared fighting it at
all, and have remained pure and untouched, barely
touching this earth, so mixed up with grief and sin !
Let me thank you for the charming photographs,
and for the present toward the layette — a most kind
assistance.
* * * We went to the Mausoleum. The child-
ren had made me wreaths to take there, and we all
went together. How often and tenderly Ernie speaks
of Frittie ! It is very touching, and speaks of his
deep and warm heart. He said the other day — for
the recollection of death has left such a deep impres-
sion, and he cannot reconcile it with life, it pains him,
— "When I die, you must die too, and all the others ;
why can't all die together? I don't like to die alone,
like Frittie." Poor child! the wish that all have,
who love their own, so early expressed. * * *
May 4th.
Many thanks for your last dear letter written on
dear Arthur's birthday, of which, though late, I wish
you joy. Such a good, steady, excellent boy as he
is! What a comfort it must be to you, never to have
had any cause of uneasiness or annoyance in his con-
duct! He is so much respected, which for one so
young is doubly praiseworthy. From St. Peters-
burg, as from Vienna, we heard the same account of
the steady line he holds to, in spite of all chaffing,
etc., from others; which shows character.
My mother-in-law tells me that since Miechen has
been allowed to retain her religion, this right will of
course be conceded to all Princesses in future. What
TRIALS.
329
a good thing, for the changing I always thought too
bad, and nowadays so intolerant and narrow. ^' * *
To think of Mr. Van de Weyer also leaving this
world! To you he will be a loss, and to all who
knew him. Old friends are precious landmarks in
the history of one's life, and not to be replaced by
new ones; and it is sad, how time reduces the num-
ber as one gets on in life. How deeply you must
feel this with each fresh loss! I feel much for
you. * * *
Darmstadt, May i8th,
* * * Since 1867 the Emperor's [of Russia]
face shrank so, and he became so thin. When I first
saw him, in 1864, he was much stouter and fresher
looking. He has many cares, and one sees they
weigh upon him, for he is so kind and so well-mean-
ing, and has done so much to advance liberty and
culture in his own country.
Darmstadt, June 5th.
Beloved Mama: — * * * The day (Whitsunday,
and dear Frittie's burial-day) of baby's birth would
have been too sad, had not the fact of its being your
birthday given a double significance ; but when I
heard those bells, and became conscious aeain of
every thing, my feelings were deep and mingled be-
yond expression. '^ * '^ With repeated tender
thanks, your most loving child, Alice.
June nth.
''' * * Having no cow, or country place to keep
one, in this tremendous heat where one can't keep
milk, and dysentery carries off so many babies, it
would not be fair to deprive the poor little thing of
its natural and safest nourishment till the hot months
330 FHINCESS ALICE.
are over. These, darling Mama, are my reasons,
and though I do it with such pleasure, yet it is not
without sacrifices of comfort and convenience, etc.;
but it seems to me the best course to take for our
children, and as we are situated.
Many thanks for being baby's godmother ! It
gives us great pleasure.
Do thank all our good people for their kind
interest. '"* * *
I am drivinor out this afternoon if cool enough.
You must not tell one of the heavenly Scotch air,
when one is breathing heated stove air ; it makes
one too envious.
July 13th.
The christening went off very well. Baby looked
really pretty for so young an individual. It was in a
large room. Marie [Duchess of Edinburgh], quite
in pink, held her godchild ; and my mother-in-law,
with her best love, begs me to tell you, it had
pleased her so much that you had asked her to rep-
resent you. My three older girls looked very nice,
I thought, in lavender silk (your Christmas present).
I had the same color, and " Sunny " in pink, was
immensely admired. She is still improving in looks
since you saw her.
I was glad it was another place, in different cir-
cumstances from the last christening. As it was, it
moved me much. The last time I heard these
words, darling Frittie was with us, and now the
chain has a gap !
* * * We can get nothing at Scheveningen
except at exorbitant prices, so we go to that dread-
ful Blankenberghe — without tree or bush, nothing
but a beach and sand banks.
TRIALS. 331
Blankenberghe, July 24th.
The sea air is doing" all good, the children espe-
cially, the heat had pulled them so.
1 have bathed once, and hope it will agree. * * *
My cough and relaxed throat are getting better.
The rooms are small and few, but clean, and the
cooking good, and we are quite satisfied. There is
not a soul one knows.
Blankenberghe, August i6th.
This day makes me think of our dear kind Grand-
mama, whose image still dwells amongst us ! None
who ever knew her can forget how truly lovable she
was ; and we grandchildren will ever retain such a
bright recollection of her. So many little attentions,
small souvenirs, kind letters, all tokens of affection
so pleasing to the receivers.
Yesterday Louis saved a lady from drowning.
He was bathing. The waves were high, and he
heard a cry for help, and saw a bather struggling.
She had lost her footing. Her husband tried to
help her, but was exhausted and let her go ; equally
so the brother-in-law, and Louis felt he was losing
his strength, but she kept her presence of mind and
floated. He let her go once till a wave brought her
near him aoi'ain, and he cauoht her hand and brouQfht
her in, feeling quite done himself. I was not in the
sea at the time, for the waves were so tremendous
that I lost my footing several times, and had come
out, fearing an accideiit. The lady is a Mrs. T.
Sligo, a Scotchwoman, and she has just written to
me to thank Louis. He is a ijood swimmer, and
very strong. The gentlemen are two grey- haired
Scotchmen.
Ella has so wonderfully improved since she has
been here. She is no more pale and languid, and
Ernie is another child also.
332 PRINCESS ALICE.
Luckily it has not been warm, so the air and baths
are doubly efficacious. They have done me a world
of good. I feel quite different to what I have done
ever since Sunny's birth. I believe the sea to be
the only thing for such a relaxed state, and, being
strong and healthy by nature, I can't bear not being
well, and feeling so weak. Miss Graves has re-
turned, but the girls have been very good — no
trouble at all.
Kranichstein, August 26th.
On dear Papa's birthday I must send you a few
lines. The past is ever bright and vivid in my mind,
though year after year intervenes. How must it be
for you, who live surrounded by such precious recol-
lections of the happy past !
I think doubly of you to-day, and doubly tenderly,
sweet Mama !
I got home quite right, and found the house here
cold. There was no sun, and our rooms beincf to
the north, and the wood so near, makes them feel
chilly.
I am glad dear Leopold bore the journey well.
The air will do him good in his weakened state.
The day at Laeken was quiet and pleasant. Marie
is still thinner, and more aged, I think. The loss of
that nice boy weighs on them still, and they spoke
much about it, and she with many tears.
Every one has his burden to bear, and must bear
it alone with trust and resignation — that is the thing
to struggle and to pray for.
Kranichstein, September ist.
" * * I shall get a comforter done for good
Mrs. Brown, kind old woman. I am glad she does
not forget me, and shall be pleased to do any little
thing that can give her pleasure. Will you tell her
TRIALS. 333
the plaid she made me still goes everywhere with
me? How is Mrs. Grant?
Louis is gone, 5nd I have a good deal to do every
day. We breakfast at half-past eight, then I have
baby, and take the children out till eleven. I then
hav^e business, babv, and, at one, the elder o\x\s al-
ternatelv for French readinor. After luncheon I
write my letters, etc., and before five go out. In the
evenings I read, and have supper at eight with the
two ladies.
Ella is another child since she has been at the sea-
side — fine color, no longer pale and languid, learns
M'ell, and is quite different. Ernie the same, bright
and fresh ; while before they had been looking pulled
and weak, outo^rowincr their strength.
" Sunny " is the picture of robust health, and sweet
little " sister IMaly " sits up quite alone, and is very
neat and rosy, with such quick eyes, and two deep
dimples in her cheeks — a great pet, and so like my
poor Frittie.
The return here has been very painful, and days
of great depression still come, when 1 am tormented
with the dreadful remembrance of the day I lost him.
Too cruel and asfonizincr are those thouohts. I dwell
on his rest and peace, and that our sufterings he can-
not know. What mio^ht not life have brouijht him ?
Better so ! but hai'd to say, " God's will be done."
- Kranichstein, September 15th.
"^ * * 's conversion has created no smaller
sensation with us than elsewhere, and the Times
criticised his step so sharply. It remains a retro-
grade movement for any Protestant, how much more
so for a man of his stamp ! Quite incomprehensible
to me.
* * * This Catholic movement is so un-English.
334 PRINCESS ALICE.
I think, among those Ritualists there are bond fide
Catholics who help to convert. '''' * *
I will send you sweet little Maly's photograph
next time. * * -- Baby has a very fair skin,
light-brown hair and deep-blue eyes with marked
eyebrows, not much color in her cheeks, but pink
and healthy-looking altogether.
Kranichstein, September 24th.
* * * People with strong feelings and of ner-
vous temperament, for which one is no more respon-
sible than for the color of one's eyes, have things to
fight against and to put up with, unknown to those
of quiet, equable dispositions, who are free from vio-
lent emotions, and have consequently no feeling of
nerves — still less, of irritable nerves. If I did not
control mine as much as I could, they would be
dreadful. * * -^ One can overcome a great deal
— but alter one's self one cannot. * * *
October 31st.
* * * I always think, that in the end children
educate the parents. For their sakes there is so
much one must do : one must forget one's self, if
every thing is as it ought to be. It is doubly so, if
one has the misfortune to lose a precious child.
Riickert's lovely lines are so true (after the loss of
two of his children) :
Nun hat euch Gott verlieh'n, was wir audi woUten thun,
Wir wollten euch erzieh'n, und ihr erzieht uns nun.
O Kinder, ihr erziehet mit Schmerz die Eltern jetzt ;
Ihr zieht an uns, und ziehet uns auf zu euch zuletzt.*
Yesterday Ernie was telling Orchard that I was
* Now unto you the Lord has done what we had wished to do ;
We would have train'd you up, and now 'tis we are train'd by you.
With grief and tears, O children, do you your parents train,
And lure us on and up to you, to meet in heaven again.
TRIALS. 335
going to plant some Spanish chestnuts, and she said :
" Oh, I shall be dead and gone before they are big ;
what a pity we had none sooner ! " and Ernie burst
out crying and said : " No, you must not die alone —
I don't like people to die alone ; we must die all to-
gether ! " He has said the same to me before, poor
darling. After Lenchen's [Princess Christian's] boys
were gone, and he had seen Eddy and Georgy [sons
of the Prince of Wales], his own loss came fresh upon
him, and he cried for his litde brother! It is the
remaining behind the loss, the missing of the
dear ones, that is the cruel thing to bear. Only
time can teach one that, and resignation to a Higher
Will. -^ ^- *
Darmstadt, November 9th.
* * * The new Church laws (similar to the
Prussian) go through our Upper Chamber to-morrow,
and will meet with great opposition. Louis is, of
course, for accepting them, as a check must be put
on the Catholics ; for the Catholic clergy are paid by
the State as well as the Protestant, so that the State
has an equal right over both ; but this right the
Catholics have for years managed to evade. The
Bishop of Mayence is doing his utmost to create
every possible obstacle, but it is to be hoped that one
will not here have to have recourse to the method
of fines and imprisonment as in Prussia * * *
November i6th.
Many thanks for your dear letter, and for the
advice, which, as a mark of your interest in our
children, is very precious, besides being so good !
What you mention I have never lost sight of, and
there is, as you say, nothing more injurious for
children than that they should be made a fuss about.
33^ PRIA'CESS ALICE.
I want to make them unselfish, unspoiled, and con-
tented ; as yet this is the case. That they take a
greater place in my life, than is often the case in our
families, comes from my not being able to have
enough persons of a responsible sort to take charge
of them always ; certain things remain undone from
that reason, if I do not do them, and they would be
the losers. I certainly do not belong by nature to
those women who are above all zvife ; but circum-
stances have forced me to be the mother in the real
sense, as in a private family, and I had to school my-
self to it, I assure you, for many small self-denials
have been necessary. Baby-worship, or having the
children indiscriminately about one, is not at all the
right thing, and a perpetual talk about one's children
makes some women intolerable. I hope I steer clear
of these faults — at least I try to do so, for I can only
agree in every word you say, as does Louis, to whom
I read it ; and he added when I was reading your
remarks : " Das thust Du aber nicht. Die Kinder
und andere Menschen wissen gar nicht, was Du fur
sie thust " [" But you don't do so. Neither the chil-
dren nor anybody else knows what you do for
them "]. He has often complained that I would not
have the children enough in my room, but, being of
your opinion, where it was not necessary, I thought
it better not. * * ^=
December 12th.
I enclose a few lines to Mr. Martin.* I have only
had time to look at the preface, and am very glad to
hear that you are satisfied.
With what interest shall I read it! You will re-
ceive these lines on the 14th. Last year I had the
* The first volume of whose " Life of the Prince Consort" had just been
published.
TRIALS.
337
comfort of being near you. It did me real good
then, and I thank you again for those short and
quiet days, where" the intercourse with you was so
soothing to my aching heart. There is no Umgang
[intercourse] I know, that gives me more happiness
than when I can be with you — above all, in quiet.
The return to the so-called world I have barely
made. Life is serious — a journey to another end.
The flowers God sends to brighten our path I take
with gratitude and enjoy ; but much that was dearest,
most precious, which this day commei7toratcs , is in the
grave ; part of my heart is there too, though their
spirits, adored Papa's, live on with me, the holiest
and brightest part of life, a star to lead us, were we
but equal to following it! The older I grow, the
more perfect, the more touching and good, dear
Papa's image stands before me. Such an entire life
for duty, so joyously and unpretendingly borne out,
remains for all times something inexpressibly fine
and grand ! With it how tender, lovable, gay, he was !
I can never talk of him to others who have not
known him, without tears in my eyes — as I have
them now. He wasSinA is my ideal. I never knew
a man fit to place beside him, or so made to be
devotedly loved and admired. * * *
December i4tli.
Before this clay is over, I must write a few words
— my thoughts are so much with you and with the
past, the bright, happy past of my childhood, where
beloved Papa was the centre of this rich and happy
existence. I have spent nearly the whole day with
the precious volume which speaks so much of you
and of him.
What a man in every sense of the word ; what a
Prince he was — so entirely what the dear old Baron
338 PRINCESS ALICE.
[Stockmar] urged him always to be! Life with him
must have seemed to you so secure and well-
guarded. How you must have loved him ! It
makes one's heart ache again and again, in reading
and thinking of all dear Papa was to you, that you
should have had to part from him in the heat of the
day, when he was so necessary. Ihm ist zvohl [With
him it is well]. A life like his was a whole long life-
time, though only twenty-two years, and he well
deserved his rest !
The hour is nearing when we last held and pressed
his hand in life, now thirteen years ago. How well
I recollect that last sunrise, and then the dreadful
night with you that followed on that too awful day !
But it is not well to dwell on these things, when we
have the bright, sunny past to look back to. Tenny-
son's beautiful Dedication '•' expresses all one feels
and would wish to say. I can only add, with a heavy-
drawn sigh, " Oh, to be worthier of such a Father!"
How far beneath him, if not always in aims, at least
in their fulfilment, have I always remained !
December 17th.
My best thanks for the letter of the i5th. Poor
Colonel Grey's f death is shocking, and Bertie and
Alix are sure to have felt it deeply. Dear Bertie's
true and constant heart suffers on such occasions,
for he can be constant in friendship, and all who
serve him serve him with warm attachment. I hope
he won't give way to the idea of Sandringham being
unlucky, though so much that has been trying and
sad has happened to them there ! Superstition is
surely a thing to fight against ; above all, with the
feelino- that all is in God's hands, not in ours I
o
* To " The Idyls of the King."
f Only child of Sir George Grey, and Equerry to the Prince of Wales.
He died at Sandringham of inflammation of the lungs.
TRIALS. 339
How interesting the book is [" Life of the Prince
Consort 'J ! I have finished it, and am befriedigt
[satisfied]. It was a difficult undertaking, but Mr.
Martin seems to have done it very well.
I am sure dear Osborne is charming as ever, but
I can't think of that large house so empty ; no chil-
dren any more ; it must seem so forsaken in our old
wing. I have such a Heiviweh [yearning] to see
Osborne again after more than six years. * * si:
1875.
Each year the Princess Alice endeavored by
some public effort or other — either a dramatic or
musical performance — to collect funds for her many
charitable institutions which, as they extended their
field of usefulness, were more and more in need of
pecuniary help. Artists as well as amateurs gladly
offered their services on all such occasions.
In the beginning of this year the Prince and
Princess and their children went to Ens^land for two
months, spending part of the time with the Queen,
and part with the Prince and Princess of Wales.
The two eldest daughters, Victoria and Elizabeth,
accompanied their grandmother to Balmoral in May.
The whole family returned to Darmstadt at the
end of June. In July the Prince and Princess Louis
were present at the " coming of age" of the Hered-
itary Grand Duke of Baden. The rest of the sum-
mer was spent at Kranichstein.
In 1874 the Hessian Government had amended
their educational laws for the schools, and had estab-
lished, as a fundamental principle, that needle-work
340 PRINCESS ALICE.
in all its branches should be taught in all girls'
schools, and that suitable teachers for this purpose
should be engaged. To meet this necessity, a
course of lectures and instruction in the art of nee-
dle-work was instituted by the " Alice Society," open
to women and girls of all classes. This has proved
in its results of real blessing and benefit to the whole
country.
[The next two letters arose out of the expression
of an opinion on the part of some of the Prince Con-
sort's friends, that the publication of his Life under
the sanction of the Queen, with unreserved fulness
of details, had been premature.]
Darmstadt, January 3d, 1875.
* * * It is touching and fine in you to allow
the world to have so much insight into your private
life, and allow others to have what has been only your
property and our inheritance.
People can only be the better for reading about
dear Papa, such as he was, and such as so feelingly
and delicately Mr. Theodore Martin places him
before them. To me the volume is inexpressibly
precious, and opens a field for thought in various
senses.
For the frivolous higher classes how valuable this
book will be, if read with real attention, as a record
of a life spent in the highest aims, with the noblest
conception of duty as a leading star.
To this letter Her Majesty replied :
Osborne, January 12, 1875.
Dearest Alice :— * * * Now as regards the
book. If you will reflect a few minutes, you will
TRIALS. 341
see how I owed it to beloved Papa to let his noble
character be known and understood, as it now is,
and that to wait lonofer, when those who knew him
best — his own wife, and a few (very few there are)
remaining friends — were all o^one, or too old, and too
far removed from that time, to be able to present a
really true picture of his most ideal and remarkable
character, would have been really wrong.
He must be known, for his own sake, for the good
of England and of his family, and of the world at
large. Countless people write to say, what good it
does and will do. And it is already thirteen years
since he left us !
Then you must also remember, that endless false
and untrue things have been written and said about
us, public and private, and that in these days people
will write and will know : therefore the only way to
counteract this is to let the real, full truth be known,
and as much be told as can be told with prudence
and discretion, and then, no harm, but good, will be
done. Nothing will help me more, than that my
people should see what I have lost! Numbers of
people we knew have had their Lives and Memoirs
published, and some beautiful ones : Bunsen's by his
wife; Lord Elgin's, by his (very touching and inter-
esting); Lord Palmerston's ; etc., etc.
" The Early Years " volume was begun for private
circulation only, and then General Grey and many of
Papa's friends and advisers begged me to have it
published. This was done. The work was most
popular and greatly liked. General Grey could not
go on with it, and asked me to ask Sir A. Helps to
continue it, and he said that he could not, but rec-
ommended Mr. Theodore Martin as one of the most
eminent writers of the day, and hoped I could pre-
342 PRINCESS ALICE.
vail on him to undertake this great national work.
I did succeed, and he has taken seven years to pre-
pare the whole, supplied by me with every letter
and extract ; and a deal of time it took, but I felt it
would be a national sacred work. You must, I
think, see I am right now ; Papa and I too would have
suffered otherwise. I think even the German side
of his character will be understood.
One of the things that pleases people most is the
beautiful way in which he took all good Stockmar's
often very severe observations. And they also admire
so much good old Stockmar's honesty, fearlessness,
and are pleased to be shown what a dear warm-heart-
ed old man he was. Your devoted Mama,
V. R.
January iSth.
* * * The service in Dr. Weber's study be-
fore the open coffin, filled with flowers, was very
affecting. He was truly beloved and respected.
His sufferings must have been intense, and for many
years borne heroically — not a word said ; not a com-
plaint ; always ready to bear the sorrows of others
with them, yet bearing his own unassisted ! Won-
derful self-command and unselfishness! He knew
his illness was fatal ; even to the latter weeks con-
sidered his days as but few, and put all in order,
without letting his family and friends know what he
himself only too well foresaw.
It was a stormy afternoon with pouring rain when
he was buried. Louis, his poor boy, and many
were out. * "' *
We have April weather. I have a very heavy
cold, and feel so weak and done up. It is too warm
and unhealthy ; every place smells, our house espe-
cially.
TRIALS. 343
January 27th.
* * * My little May has such a cold, which
lessens her usual smiles. She is a fine, strong child,
more like what Victoria was, but marked eyebrows,
with the fair hair and such speaking eyes. She and
Aliky are a pretty contrast !
February 14th.
You say of the drains just what I have said from
year to year; and this summer — if we can get away
in the spring, when it is most unwholesome — what
can be done is to be done, and I hope with better
success than what has hitherto been attempted.
My little May cannot get rid of her cough, though
she looks pink and smiling. I shall be so glad to
show her to you — she is so pretty and dear.
My father-in-law has for the first time got the
gout in his feet, and is so depressed. Uncle Louis
suffers dreadfully from oppression at night, so that
he can't remain in bed. He is a good deal aged,
and stoops dreadfully. ^= * *
ISIarch 14th.
Louis gave me a dreadful fright last week by sud-
denly breaking through the ice, and at a very deep
place. He laid his arms over the thicker ice, and
managed to keep above water till some one was near
enough to help him out. He said the water drew
immensely, and he feared getting under the ice.
The gentleman, who is very tall, lay down and
stretched his arms out to Louis, another man hold-
ing the former : and so he got out without ill effects.
As it was at Kranichstein, he undressed and ruljbed
himself before the stove in the Verwalter's [land-
steward's] room ; and he came home in the Verwal-
ter's clothes, which looked very funny. * * '^'
344 FJilNCESS ALICE.
Marlborough House, May 15th.
I did not half thank you yesterday for our pleasant
visit. 1 could not trust myself to speak. I felt
leavino- you ao"ain so much. It has been a ereat
happiness to me, so woJillJiuciid [doing me so much
good] to have been with you, and I can never ex-
press what I feel, as I would, nor how deep and ten-
der my love and gratitude to you are ! The older I
grow, the more precious the Verhdltniss [relation]
to a mother becomes to me, and how doubly so to
you !
Louis feels as I do ; his love to you has always
been as to his own mother ; and my tears begin to
run when I recall your dear face and voice, which to
see and hear again has seemed so natural, so — as it
ought to be ! that it is quite difficult to accustom my-
self to the thought that only in memory can I enjoy
them now.
How I do love you, sweet Mama ! There is no
sacrifice I would not make for you ! and as our
meetings are of late years so fleeting and far be-
tween, when they are over I feel the separation very
Marlborough House, June 15th.
* * * God bless you, my precious Mother,
watch over and guard you ; and let your blessing
and motherly interest accompany us and our chil-
dren ! Louis' tenderest love ; many, many kisses
from all children, and William's respectful duty !
Kranichstein, June 20th.
* * * All Victoria and Ella tell me of their
stay at Balmoral — the many things you gave them
and their people — touches me so much : let me thank
you so many times again. I feel I did not half say
enough, but you know how much I feel it !
TRIALS. 345
Our journey did very well ; no one was ill, after
that dreadful storQi — a piece of luck. You are now
again at Windsor. How much I think of you and
of dear Beatrice !
July loth.
* * * We got home from Carlsruhe at eleven
o'clock last night. We went there on Thursday ;
arrived at two ; were received there by Fritz and
Louise and the Emperor ; found dear Marie Lein-
ingen and Hermann and Leopoldine there. Fritz
W. arrived half an hour afterwards from Vienna, hav-
ing met with a railway accident in the night ; but he
was, thank God, unhurt — barely shaken.
It was frightfully hot ! Family dinner at five ;
then a drive about the town, which was decked with
flags. At nine in the evening a large soiree and
continual circle ! and supper — such a heat ! At eight
next morning in gala, church service. Fritz (son)
for the first time in uniform with the Black Eagle ;
then at ten a very fine parade, in which Fritz
marched pastas second lieutenant with his regiment.
The troops were so fine ; the Emperor led his own
regiment past, and it was a very moving sight, with
a great deal of cheering. At tw'o there was a large
banquet, at which Fritz made a beautiful speech, and
the Emperor a very good answer.
All Fritz's (son) former school-fellows, and the
different schools and masters, came by in procession,
and the day was very fatiguing. He is such a good
boy. His former tutor, who finished his task of ed-
ucation yesterday, said to me : "Er ist ein guter
Mensch und die Wahrheit selber " [He is a good
man, and truth itself]. He was very self-possessed,
modest, and civil, talking to every one. He is full
of promise, and has been carefully and lovingly
34^ PJ?/A'Ci:SS ALICE.
brought up by his parents, who are such excellent
people. I have the greatest regard for them.
I told the Emperor the fright we had about the
war. He was much distressed, that any one could
believe him capable of such a thing ; but our Fritz
and Fritz of Baden agree that, with Bismarck, in
spite of the nation not wishine it, he mieht bring"
about a war at any moment. Our Fritz spoke so
jusdy and reasonably — quite anti-war — and I told
him all the opinions I had gathered and heard in
London ; and he was much grieved and worried, I
could see ; but it must and can be prevented, if all
are against it, I am sure. This enormous and splen-
did army, ready at any moment, is a dangerous pos-
session for any country. "' '"'' *
Kranichstein, October 7th.
* ^' * To-day my eyes will not remain dry ;
the recollection of five years ago, which brought us
joy and promise of more in our sweet second boy, is
painful in the extreme. The sudden ending of that
young life ; tlie gap this has left ; the recollections
that are now but to be enjoyed in silent memory,
will leave a heart-ache and a sore place, beside
where there is much happiness and cause for grati-
tude. The six children and we, with endless flowers
and tears, decked his litde grave this morning, and
some sad lines of Byron's struck me as having much
truth in the pain of such moments —
But when I stood beneath the fresh green tree,
Which living waves where thou didst cease to live,
And saw around nie the wide field revive
With fruits and fertile promise, and the Spring
Come forth her work of gladness to contrive.
With all her reckless birds \\\)ow the wing,
I turn'd from all she brought, to those she could not bring.*
* "Childe Harold," canto iii., stanza 30.
TRIALS. 347
The weather is fine ; it was much like this five
years ago, but ^;;ound Metz it rained. Louis was
turning into quarters with his troops from a sortie,
and he' called the news out to the regiments as he
rode along, and they gave a cheer for their little
Prince 1
It was a dreadful time of trial and separation for
both of us, and Frittie was such a comfort and conso-
lation to me in all my loneliness.
How sorry I am for poor Alix at this long separa-
tion ! ^^ For her sake I grieve at the impossibility
of her accompanying him.
We hope to get back to our house by the 19th,
though there will be an end of nice walks for the
next eight months — the town grows so, and is all
railroad and coal heaps where we had our walks for-
merly, and the town pavement in the streets is
most unpleasant walking. '^' * *
ScHLOss Kranichstein, October i6th.
For your dear letter and for the inclosures I am so
grateful, but distressed beyond measure at dear Fan-
nie's [Lady F^rances Baillie]. I had a long letter
from her some weeks back, when she was more
hopeful about dear Augusta [Stanley]. This is too
much sorrow for them all! Fannie I loved as a sis-
ter, and dear Augusta's devotion and self-sacrifice to
you, and even to us in those dreadful years, was
something rare and beautiful. Her whole soul and
heart were in the duty, which to her was a sacred
one. The good, excellent Dean! My sympathy is
so great with these three kind and good people so
sorely tried. I grieve for you too ! God help them '
October 26th.
How sorry I am for dear good old Mrs. Brown
* During the visit of the Prince of Wales to India.
348 PHINCESS ALICE.
and for her sons.* Please say something sympa-
thizing from me; her bhndness is such a trial, poor
soul, at that age. How gloomily life must close for
her !
1876.
Although this new year brought no actual change
to the usual routine of the daily life in the Princess'
home, and although the Princess was able to fulfil
her social duties, traces of serious illness now beg-an
to show themselves by repeated attacks of exhaus-
tion and weakness. These attacks were partially
relieved by a short stay in the Black Forest in June,
and by a visit to England and Scotland, which she
made without her husband. The Prince had been
detained in Germany by the great manoeuvres, on
the conclusion of which he fetched her from Eno-land,
in the autumn. On their way back to Darmstadt
they stopped at Brussels. They also visited Coblenz,
to pay their respects to the Empress of Germany^
who had been to see their children at Darmstadt in
October.
January i8th, 1876.
No words can express how deep my sympathy
and grief is for what our dear Augusta and the Dean
have to go through. With her warm, large heart,
which ever lived and suffered for others, how great
must her pain be in having to leave him ! I can
positively think of nothing else lately, as you know
* Her husband, the father of the Queen's personal attendant, John Brown,
had just died. See " More Leaves from a Journal," p 319.
TRIALS. 349
my love for Augusta, the General [her brother,
General Bruce], ajid Fanny has always been great;
and when I think back of them in former times, and
in the year 1861, my heart aches and my tears flow
— feeling what you and we shall lose in dear Augusta.
My pity for the dear, good, kind Dean is so deep. I
sent him a few words again to-day, in the hope he
may still say a few words of love and gratitude to
dear Augusta from me.
Darmstadt, January 22d.
* * -jf Yesterday morning Ernie came in to
me and said, " Mama, I had a beautiful dream ; shall
I tell you ? I dreamt that I was dead and was gone
up to Heaven, and there I asked God to let me have
Frittie again ; and he came to me and took my hand.
You were in bed, and saw a great light, and were so
frightened, and I said, ' It is Ernie and Frittie.'
You were so astonished ! The next night Frittie and I
went with a great light to sisters." Is it not touching ?
He says such beautiful things, and has such deep
poetic thought, yet with it all so full of fun and
romping.
February 9th.
* * * I am so sorry and shocked about ex-
cellent Mr. Harrison.* What a loss! He was so
obliging and kind always in the many commissions
for us children. Poor Krauslach,f too— so sad! It
is too grievous ; how one well-known face — with its
many associations — after another, is called away ;
and on looking back, how short a space of time they
seemed to have filled !
WoLFACH, June 7th.
* * '=' The heat here is excessive ; the wild
* Secretary in the office of the Privy Purse.
f The Prince Consort's head groom, who had come over with him to
England,
350 PRINCESS ALICE.
flowers covering- every field are more beautiful than
I have ever seen them anywhere — such quantities
of large forget-me-nots. The streams are very much
like Scotch ones ; the valleys are partly very narrow,
and the hills wooded to the very top — rather like
the Thuringer Wald, but more different greens :
such lovely coloring. I admire the country so much.
Darmstadt, June 23d.
* * ^' How sorry I am for good, kind old Mrs.
Brown — to be blind with old age seems so hard, so
cruel ; but I am sure with your so loving heart you
have brightened her latter years in many kind ways.
It is such a pleasure to do any thing for the aged ;
one has such a feeling of respect for those who have
the experience of a long life, and are nearing the
goal.
* * * Yesterday, again, the Emperor Alex-
ander spoke to me, really rejoicing that the political
complications were clearing peacefully : " Dites a
Maman encore une fois comme cela me rejouit, et de
savoir comme c'est elle qui tient a la paix. Nous ne
•pouvons, nous ne voulons pas nous brouiller avec
I'Angleterre. II faudrait etre fou de penser a Con-
stantinople ou aux Indes ! " He had tears in his
eyes, and seemed so moved, as if a dreadful weight
was being lifted off; so happy for the sake of Marie,
and Affie, too, that matters were mending. He
showed me after dinner the buttons you gave him ;
spoke also so affectionately of Bertie. * * * j
thought of you — thirty-nine years of rule not to be
envied, save for the service one can render one's
country and the world in general in such an arduous
position.
Private individuals are, of course, far the best off
— our privileges being more duties than advantages
TRIALS. 351
" — and their absence would be no privation compared
to the enormous advantasfe of beinof one's own mas-
ter, and of being on equahty with most people, and
able to know men and the world as they are, and
not merely as they please to show themselves to
please us. -^ - -^
Darmstadt, July 5th.
* * * We dined with Uncle Louis, the Em-
peror, etc., and Grand Duke of Weimar, at Seeheim
yesterday. The Emperor said he had written to
you, but Prince Gortschakoff seemed only half-happy,
and said to me : " Franchement puis-je vous le dire,
je desirerais voir I'Angleterre grande, forte, decidee
dans la politique, comme I'etait Canning et les grands
hommes d'etat que j'ai connus en Angleterre il y a
quarante ans. La Russie est grande et forte ; que
I'Angleterre le soit aussi ; nous n'avons pas besoin
de faire attention a tous les petits." He said we
made our foreign policy and despatches for the Blue
Book, and not an open decided policy before the
House of Commons and the world. It may interest
you to hear this opinion, as it shows the temper of
his policy.
September 5th.
It is long since I have felt such pain as the death
(to me really sudden and unexpected, in spite of the
danger inherent in her case) of my good, devoted,
kind Emily '^ has caused me. My tears won't cease.
Louis, the children, the whole household, all mourn
and grieve with me. She was singularly beloved,
and richly deserved to be so ! Her devotion and
affection to me really knew no bounds. I cannot
think what it will be to miss her. I have never been
♦The Hon. Emily Caroline Hardinge, the Princess' Lady-in- Waiting,
died in London on the 4th of September, 1876.
352 PRINCESS ALICE.
served as she served me, and probably never shall
be so again. It is a wrench that only those can esti-
mate who knew her well — like poor Mary Hardinge.
She came first in Emily's heart, and the loss for her
is quite, quite irreparable ! Had I but seen dear
Emily again ! This sudden, cruel sort of death
shocks me so.
How I should have nursed and comforted her had
I been near her! She always wished this, and told
me she had such a fear of death. There never
breathed a more unselfish, Qrenerous, eood character.
September 6th.
, * * * I fear you will find me so dull, tired,
and useless. I can do next to nothing of late, and
must rest so much. Poor Emily ! My thoughts
never leave her. I cannot yet get accustomed to
the thought of her loss.
P. S. — Just received your dear note. The accounts
of my dear Emily's sad end have just reached me, and
I am terribly upset. You can hardly estimate the
gap, the blank she will leave — my only lady, and in
many ways honime d affaires We had been so much
together this last waiting ; every thing reminds me
of her, and of the touching love she bore me. Sure-
ly some years more she would have lived.
Darling Mama, I don't think you quite know how
far from well I am, and how absurdly wanting in
strength. I only mention it, that you should know
that until the good air has set me up I am good for
next to nothing ; and I fear I sha'n't be able to come
to dinner the first evenings. I hope you won't mind.
I have never in my life been like this before. I live
on my sofa, and in the air, and see no one, and yet
go on losing strength ! Of course this unexpected
shock has done me harm too, and has entailed more
sad things. * * *
TRIALS. 353
Douglas' Hotel, )
Edinburgh, Sunday, September nth. )
* * * I hea*r Ernie is still so dull and melan-
choly at missing me ; he always feels it most, with
that tender loving heart of his. God preserve and
guard this to me so inexpressibly precious child ! I
fancy that seldom a mother and child so understood
each other, and loved each other, as we two do. It
requires no words ; he reads in my eyes, as I do in
his, what is in his little heart.
It is so wonderfully still here, not a soul in the
streets. The people of the house have sent up sev-
eral times to enquire when and to what church I was
going- ; so I shall go, as it seems to shock them,
one's staying away. I shall see the Monument this
afternoon, and go and see Holyrood again. The
whole journey here brought back with the well-remem-
bered scenery the recollection of my childhood, all
the happy journeys with dear Papa and you. How
the treasured remembrance, with the deep love, lives
on, when all else belongs to the past!
I seem, in returning here, so near you and him in for-
mer happy years, when my home was in this beloved
country. No home in the world can quite become
what the home of one's parents and childhood was,
There is a sacredness about it, a feeling of gratitude
and love for the great mercies one had there. You,
who never left country, Geschwistcr [kindred], or
home, can scarcely enter into this feeling.
In the hopes of meeting you soon, kissing your
dear hands, with thanks for all goodness, and many
excuses for having caused so mush trouble. * .'"' ^
Buckingham Palace, October 19th.
I was so sad at parting with you yesterday. I
could not half thank you for all your love and kind-
354 FJilNCESS ALICE.
ness during' those weeks. But you know how deep-
ly I feel it ; how truly grateful I am to you ; how
happy and contented I am to be allowed to be near
you as in old days. Darling Mama, once more,
thousand thanks for all and for every thing!
The journey went quite well, and I am not par-
ticularly tired.
Buckingham Palace, November igth.
Thousand thanks for your dear letter received
this mornino"! I feel leavinof dear Enorland, as
always, though the pleasure of being near the dear
children again is very great.
Let me thank you once more from my heart,
darling Mama, for all your great kindness, and for
having enabled me to do what was thought neces-
sary and best. I return so much stronger and
better than I came, in every way — refreshed by the
pleasant stay in dear Balmoral with you, and then
much better for the time here. I feel morally re-
freshed, too, with the entire change, the many interests
to be met with here, which is always so beneficial,
and will help me in every way when I get back to
Darmstadt. All this I have to thank you for, and
do so most warmly.
Louis, who, as you know, is full of love and affec-
tion for you, is very grateful for your kind words,
and has likewise derived profit and enjoyment from
his stay in England.
-» * * My color and strength have so much
returned, that I do not doubt being well again this
winter.
I went with Dean Stanley to see Mr. Carlyle, who
was most interesting, and talked for nearly an hour.
Had I had time, I would have written down the con-
versation. The Dean said he would try and do so.
TRIALS. 355
With Louise I visited Mr. Motley also, who in
his way is equally interesting, and has a great
charm. * * * '
,♦ Darmstadt, November 26th.
Many thanks for your last letter from Balmoral,
received yesterday morning ! I know you feel leav-
ing the dear place, but without going away there is
no VVicderschcn [meeting again]. The happiness of
our meeting with the dear children was very great
on all sides — they eat me up !
They had made wreaths over the doors, and had
no end of things to tell me. We arrived at three,
and there was not a moment's rest till they were all
in bed, and I had heard the different prayers and
hymns of the six, with all the little different confi-
dences they had to make. My heart was full of joy
and gratitude at being with them once more, and I
prayed God to make me fit to be their real friend
and stay as long as they require me, and to have the
inslffht into their different characters to oruide them
aright, and to understand their different wants and
feelings. This is so difficult always.
Victoria is immensely grown, and her figure is
forming- She is chancjinor so much — bec^innlng to
leave the child and grow into the girl. I hear she
has been good and desirous of doing what is right ;
and she has more to contend with than Ella, there-
fore double merit in any thing she overcomes, and
any self-sacrifice she makes.
Ernie is very well, and his birthday was a great
delight. Sweet little May is enchanting, — " my iveet
heart," as she calls me. Aliky is very handsome
and dear.
Darmstadt, December 12th.
I see this letter will just arrive on the 14th — day
356 PRINCESS ALICE.
never to be forgotten ! How deeply it is graven in
my heart — with letters of blood ; for the pain of
losing ki7n, and of witnessing your grief, was as
sharp as any thing any child can go through for its
beloved parents. Yet God's mercy is to be found
through all, and one learns to say " Thy will be done,"
hard though it is. * * *
1877.
The health of Prince Charles of Hesse (father of
Prince Louis) had for some time past given cause for
great anxiety. He had always suffered from violent
headaches and a delicate throat. On the evening of
the I ith of March he was seized with erysipelas, and
died peacefully on the 20th. The Princess shared
the grief of her mother-in-law and family most truly ;
for Prince Charles, though outwardly shy and retiring,
was a man of ereat cultivation and refinement, and
had made himself beloved by all who knew him.
He was buried in the Mausoleum at the Rosenhohe
on the 24th of March. The Grand Duke, who was
deeply affected by his brother's death, and all the
family were present.
A month had scarcely passed since Prince Charles'
death, when the Grand Duke himself was attacked
by serious illness at Seeheim, one of his summer
residences, near Darmstadt, and died on the 13th of
June at the age of seventy-one.
Prince Louis was the next heir, and ascended the
throne as Grand Duke Louis IV.
TRIALS. 357
The total change of circumstances, the heavy
duties and responsibiHties of her new position, came
most unexpectedly upon the Princess, and she
scarcely felt herself equal to them. With her well-
known conscientiousness and high feeling of duty it
was not surprising that they weighed heavily upon
her, more especially as her health had of late become
very delicate. Still, the hope of being able to carry
out many a plan for the welfare of her adopted coun-
try encouraged her greatly.
After the official receptions held by the Grand
Duke and Grand Duchess were over, they left
Darmstadt for the quiet little watering-place of
Houlgate, in Normandy. The Grand Duke was
only able to accompany the Grand Duchess as far as
Metz, but he followed her later on with the children.
The rest and quiet were good for them all; and, ap-
parently much improved in health, the Grand Duch-
ess returned for the first time as " mother of the
country " \Landesimdta^ to Darmstadt. Her recep-
tion was of the warmest and most enthusiastic nature,
which she took as a good omen for the future.
The Emperor of Germany and the Crown Prince
visited Darmstadt at the end of September, for the
purpose of assisting at the cavalry manoeuvres, to the
great satisfaction of the country.
The change in Princess Alice's position in no wise
affected her relations to her many charitable institu-
tions, though she had, of course, many new respon-
sibilities thrown upon her. Her constant endeavor
358 PJilNCESS ALICE.
was to be just and free from prejudice, to recognize
what was good, no matter where, and to promote
and further it to the best of her power.
The Grand Dulve and Grand Duchess saw much
of the Crown Prince and Crown Princess of Germany
during the latter part of the year, as they were living
at Wiesbaden.
Fraulein Louise Buchner, who had been for ten
years so intimately connected with the Grand
Duchess, not only as working with her for the good
of others, but also by ties of the truest friendship,
died on the 28th of November. Her death caused
a gap which was sorely felt. A few days before her
death, when she was already confined to her bed,
she received a letter from the Grand Duchess herself,
on the occasion of the tenth anniversary of the
opening of the " Alice Bazaar," thanking her for all
she had done.
The Grand Duchess had caused many of the
pamphlets written by Miss Octavia Hill to be trans-
lated, in the hopes of encouraging in Darmstadt the
authorities, and those at the head of private under-
takings, to further exertions for improving the
condition of the poor.
Whilst in England she had become acquainted
with Miss Octavia Hill, " the warm-hearted friend of
the poor," and had visited with her many of the
poorer parts of London. She felt the sincerest
admiration and respect for Miss Hill, and entirely
shared her view, " that we must become the friends
TRIALS. 359
of the poor to be their benefactors." The Grand
Duchess did not .wish to copy exactly in Germany
what Miss Hill had done in London : but she hoped
that the knowledge of what had been done in other
places would be an incentive to work in the same
direction.
At the beginning of this year the Grand Duchess
had visited in strictest incognito the worst houses
(in sanitary respects) in Mayence, and determined
to make a plan for the erection of new dwellings for
the working classes there.
Darmstadt, January ist.
■^ * * How beautifully Max Miiller's letter ''MS
written and expressed, and how touchingly and truly
he puts the point of view on which we all should
learn to stand. To become again pure as children,
with a child's faith and trust — there where our human
intellect will ever stand still !
I have been readinsf some of Robertson's sermons
again, and I think his view of Christianity one of the
truest, warmest, and most beautiful I know. * ■^ *
Darmstadt, March 23d.
Thank you so much for your dear and sympathiz-
ing letter. These have been most painful — most
distressing days — so harrowing.
The recollections of 1 861, of dear Frittie's death,
when my dear father-in-law was so tender and kind,
were painfully vivid. My mother-in-law's resigna-
tion and touching goodness, doing all that she could
during the illness and since for all arrangements, is
very beautiful !
* Written after the death of his daughter.
3^0 PRINCESS ALICE.
The poor sons gave way to bursts of tears during
those agonizinor hours ; yet they held their father
alternately with me, and were quiet and helpful for
their mother and for him, just as their simple, quiet
natures teach them. I begged Bauerlein to write to
you meanwhile. I am feeling so exhausted, and
there is so much to do, and we are always goino-
from one house to the other.
It was heart-rending from Monday morn till Tues-
day eve to see the painful alteration in the dear well-
known features augmenting from hour to hour,
though I believe he did not suffer latterly. He was
not conscious, unless spoken to, or called very
directly.
^ My mother-in-law never left his bedside day or
night, and we were only a few hours absent on Mon-
day night. Before we went home she called our
names "distincdy to him as we kissed him, and he
seemed to notice it ; then she knelt down, and dis-
tinctly, but choked with tears, prayed the Lord's
Prayer for him, calling him gently.
The next day at six we were there again, and till
half past six in the evening never left the bedside.
She repeated occasionally, as long as she thought he
might hear, a short verse — so touching! and once
said : " Bist Du traurig ? es ist ja nicht auf lange,
dann sind wir wieder zusammen ! " [" Art thou sad?
It is not for long, and then we shall be together
again "] kissing and stroking his hands. It was very
distressing.
When all was over we four were close to her, and
she threw herself on him, and then clasped her sons
to her heart with words of such grief as you so well
understand !
Early the next morning we went with her to his
TRIALS. 361
room. He lay on his bed, very peaceful, in his uni-
form. Louis had clasped the hands together when
he died, and I arranged flowers on the bed and in
the room round him.
There is a terrible deal to do and to arrange, and
many people come, and we are much with my poor
mother-in-law. Yesterday we went for the last time
to see the remains of what had been so precious.
She read a " Lied " [a hymn], and then kissed him
so long, and took with us the last look. Yesterday
evening the coffin was closed in presence of the sons.
We are going to the Rosenhohe [the Mausoleum]
now, before going to Louis' mother, to put things
straight there, and see if one can get by dear Frittie
— it is so small.
The three brothers are dreadfully upset, but able
to arrange and see after what is necessary. Aunt
Marie [the Empress of Russia] wanted to come, and
is in terrible distress ; she loved that brother beyond
any thing. In her last letter to my mother-in-law
she says : " Ich habe solche Sehnsucht nach dem
alten Bruder " [" I have such a yearning after my
old brother "].
His was a singularly delicate-minded, pure, true,
unselfish nature, so full of consideration for others,
so kind. My tears flow incessantly, for I loved him
very dearly.
My dear mother-in-law has such a broken, ruined
existence now — all turned round him ! She knows
where to find strength and comfort — it will not fail
her. * * *
Darmstadt, June 7th.
* * :i: \ye are going through a dreadful ordeal.
The whole of Monday and Monday night, with a
heat beyond words, dreading the worst. Now there
362 FHINCESS ALICE.
has been a slight rally/^= Whether it will continue
to-morrow is doubtful. He is always conscious,
makes his little jokes, but the pulse is very low
and intermits. I was there early this mornino- with
Louis. ''' * *
The questions, long- discussions between Louis
and some people, as to complication and difficulty of
every kind that will at once fall upon us, are really
dreadful, and I so unfit just now! The confusion
will be dreadful. ■'^* * ''"
I am so dreading every thing, and above all the
responsibility of being the first in every thing, and
people are not bienveillant.
I shall send you news whenever I can, but I am
so worn out. I shall not be able to do so much
myself.
I know your thoughts and wishes are with us
at so hard a time. God grant we may do all
ario-ht ! * * *
Telegrams.
June 7th.
Going to Seeheim, as great weakness has come
on. Am much tired by all that lies before us, and
not feelinof well.
Seeheim, 13th.
Dear Uncle Louis is no more. We arrived too late.
Darmstadt, 6.20 o'clock, 13th.
Such press of business and decisions. Feel very
tired.
15th.
We are both so over-tired ; the press of business
and decisions is so wearing, with the new responsi-
bility.
* The Grand Duke of Hesse was alarmingly ill.
TRIALS. 363
i8th.
Last ceremony over ! All went off well, and was
very moving. Alice.
Darmstadt, June 19th.
Only two words of thanks from both of us for your
kind wishes and letters ! Christian and Colonel
Gardiner bring you news of every thing that has
been and is still going on. But we are over-
whelmed, over-tired, and the heat is getting very
bad again.
* * * Will tell you what a very difficult posi-
tion we are in. It is too dreadful to think that I am
forced to leave Louis in a few weeks under present
circumstances, but, if he wishes to keep me at all, I
must leave every thing and this heat for a time.
These next weeks here will be very anxious and
difficult. God grant we may do the right things !
June 28th.
* ^ * 1 o have to go away just now, when the
refreshment of family life is so doubly pleasant to
Louis after his work, I am too sorry for. If I were
only better ; if I only thought that I shall have the
chance of rest, and what is necessary to regain my
health ! Now it will be more difficult than ever, and
I see Louis has the fear, which I also have, that I
shall not hold out very long.
July i5tli.
* * '•' I leave on Tuesday, but stop on the
way. The children go direct and join me in Paris,
when we go on together on Friday or Saturday to
Houlgate. The trains don't fit, and one has some
way to drive from Trouville.
Houlgate, July 25th.
* * ''' This place is quite charming — real
364 FJi/NCESS ALICE.
country, so green, so picturesque — a beautiful coast;
the nicest sea-place I have been at yet. Our house
is " wee " for so many, and the first days it was very
noisy ; and it was so dirty. The maids and nurses
had to scrub and sweep ; the one French housemaid
was not up to it. All is better now, and quite com-
fortable enough. The air is doing me good, and the
complete change. I have bathed twice, and the sea
revives me.
I follow as eagerly as any in England the advance
of the Russians, and with cordial dislike. Tkcy can
never be redressers of wrongs or promoters of civili-
zation and Christianity. What I fear is, even if they
don't take Constantinople, and make no large de-
mands as the price of their victories now, the decla-
ration of the independence of Bulgaria will make
that country to them in future what Roumania has
been for Russia now, and therefore in twenty years
hence they will get all they want, unless the other
Powers at this late hour can bring about a change.
It is bad for England, for Austria, for Germany, if
this Russian Slav element should preponderate in
Europe ; and the other countries must sooner or
later act against this in self-preservation.
What do the friends of the ** Atrocity Meetings "
say now ? How difficult it has been made for the
Government through them, and how blind they have
been ! All this must be a constant worry and
anxiety for you !
The children are so happy here — the sea does
them such good. I am very glad I brought them.
HOULGATE, July 28th.
* * * Though w^ have rain off and on, still
the weather is very pleasant, and we are all of us
charmed with the place, and the beautiful, pictu-
TRIALS. 365
resque, fertile country. The life is so pleasant — real
country — which I have never yet found at any
bathing-place abroad yet. I have bathed every
other day — swim, and it does me good. I feel it al-
ready. Ella is getting her color back, and the little
ones look much better.
I send you the last photos done of the children ;
Ella's is not favorable, nor Irene's, but ail in all they
are a pretty set. May has not such fat cheeks in
reality ; still it is very dear. The two little girlies
are so sweet, so dear, merry, and nice. I don't
know which is dearest, they are both so captivating.
I have been to an old tumble-down church at
Dives — close by here — where William the Con-
queror is said to have been before starting for
England. His name and those of all his followers
are inscribed there — names of so many families now
existing in England. It was very interesting.
August 22d.
* * * How difficult it is to know one's
children well ; to develop and train the characters
according to their different peculiarities and require-
ments ! * * *
Darmstadt, September 9th.
* * * I must tell you now, how very heartily
and enthusiastically the whole population, high and
low, received us yesterday. It was entirely sponta-
neous, and, as such, of course, so very pleasing.
**='=! was really touched, for it rained, and yet
all were so joyous — flags out, bells ringing, people
bombarding us with beautiful nosegays ; all the
schools out, even the higher ones, the girls all
dressed in white. The Kriegerverein, Louis' old
soldiers, singing, etc. In the evening all the Gesang-
366 PRINCESS ALICE.
vereine joined together and sang under our win-
dows.
We are very glad to be at home again, and,
please God, with earnest will and thought for others,
we together shall in our different ways be able to
live for the good of the people entrusted to our
care ! May God's blessing rest on our joint endeav-
ors to do the best, and may we meet with kindness
and forbearance where we fall short of our duties.
Darmstadt, October 30th,
* * * I had to receive sixty-five ladies —
amongst them my nurses — and some doctors from
here and other towns, all belonging to my Nursing
Society, which has now existed ten years. Then I
was at the opening of my Industrial Girls' School,
where girls from all parts of the country come, and
which is a great success. I started it two years ago.
On Sunday I took the children to hear the Sunday-
school, which interested them very much.
I have been doing too much lately, though, and
my nerves are beginning to feel the strain, for sleep
and appetite are no longer good. Too much is de-
manded of one ; and I have to do with so many
things. It is more than my strength can stand in
the long run. * * *
December 13th.
For to-morrow, as ever, my tenderest sympathy !
Time shows but more and more what we all lost in
beloved Papa ; and the older I grow, the more peo-
ple I know, the more the remembrance of him shines
bright as a star of purer lustre than any I have ever
known. May but a small share of his light fall on
some of us, who have remained so far beneath him,
so little worthy of such a father! We can but admire,
TRIALS. 367
reverence, long to imitate, and yet not approach near
to what he was.
We are going with the children to-day to Wiesba-
den until Saturday ; and I mean to tell Vicky that
she had better give up the hope of my being able to
come for the wedding."^ I could not do it. I only
trust the why will be understood. Do write to the
dear Empress about it when next you write. How
sorry I am to be absent at a moment when, as sister
and a German Sovereign's wife, I should be there ;
but the doctor would not hear of it, so I gave it
up. " " ^'
Darmstadt, December 21st.
* * * You say all that happened after the
dreadful 14th is effaced from your memory. How
well I can imagine that ! I remember saying my
utmost to Sir Charles Phipps in remonstrance to
your being wished to leave Windsor — it was so cruel,
so very wrong. Uncle Leopold insisted ; it all came
from him, and he was alarmed lest you should fall
ill.
Hoiv you suffered was dreadful to witness ; never
shall I forget what I went through for you then ; it
tore my heart in pieces ; and my own grief was so
great too. Louis thought I would not hold to my
engagement then any more — for my heart was too
filled with beloved, adored Papa, and with your
anguish, to have room or wish for other thoughts.
God is very merciful in letting time temper the
sharpness of one's grief, and letting sorrow find its
natural place in our hearts, without withdrawing us
from life!
* Of the Princess Charlotte of Prussia with the Hereditary Prince of
Saxe-Meiaingen.
THE END.
1878.
" Life is serious — a journey to another end." {December 12, 1874.)
THE state of the Grand Duchess' health pre-
vented her from accompanying the Grand
Duke to Rerhn on the occasion of the marriages of
Princess Charlotte of Prussia (eldest daughter of the
Crown Prince and Princess of Germany) to the
Hereditary Prince of Saxe-Meiningen, and of
Princess Elizabeth of Prussia (sister to the Duchess
of Connaught) to the Hereditary Grand Duke of
Oldenburo". Althouofh she was unable to <to out
much into society, or to take an active part in social
gayeties, her interest and sympathy were unabated,
particularly in all matters concerning art and science.
She received many guests, and Prince William of
Prussia (then studying at Bonn) often visited her.
The celebrated portrait painter Heinrich von
Angeli came to Darmstadt in the spring to paint a
family picture of the Grand Duke and Grand
Duchess and their children by command of the
Queen of England. Princess Alice greatly enjoyed
his acquaintance, and was charmed as well by his
musical talent as by his wonderful genius in painting.
36S
THE END. 369
Angeli's picture of Princess Alice was the last ever
painted of her.
The repeated attempts on the life of the old
Emperor of Germany affected the Grand Duchess
very nearly, as from her childhood she had ever
been greatly attached to him.
The Grand Duke and Grand Duchess with their
children spent the summer months of this year at
Eastbourne. Sea-bathinsf and sea-air had as^ain
been recommended as necessary.
The Grand Duke had to return to Darmstadt soon
after their arrival at Eastbourne, but toward the end
of the stay there he rejoined them.
The whole family visted the Queen at Osborne.
Although the Grand Duchess had, during all her
former visits to England, shown her lively personal
interest in all charitable institutions in London,
visiting many herself, she seems on the occasion of
this, her last, visit to her beloved native land, to
have taken a more than ordinary interest in these
matters, and to have also gone minutely into the
subject of the exertions which were being made to
relieve the pressing wants of the poor.
The Grand Duchess had scarcely arrived at East-
bourne (an eye-witness tells us), when she at once
made enquiries as to the condition of the poorer
parts of that town, and determined to visit them
herself. She loved to wander about that part of
Eastbourne which is inhabited by the fishing popu-
lation. She often entered their cottages, visiting the
370 FJilNCESS ALICE.
sick, and showing her sympathy to all. The visits
to the Sunday-school were a great pleasure to her.
The Princess often remarked, •' How much good such
instruction must do !"
She attended divine service at a church some
little way off, not because the service was particu-
larly attractive, but because the church and its
congregation needed support and help.
Amongst those good works which from year to
year had specially occupied her were the Refuges
and Penitentiaries for those poor women and girls
who most need our help. Much had been done in
this way in England, and the Albion Home at
Brighton, founded and managed solely by Mrs.
Murray Vicars, had proved of the greatest service
and blessing. The Grand Duchess invited Mrs.
Vicars to come and see her at Eastbourne, and tell
herself about her work, and showed her, when she
came, the greatest sympathy and kindness, entering
with the warmest interest into all details of the
working of the Home.
Before leavingf Eastbourne the Grand Duchess
went incognita to Brighton, and paid a private visit
to the Albion Home. " I only come as one woman
to visit another " were the Princess Alice's own
words, when Mrs. Vicars becfo-ed her to be allowed
to tell the poor Penitents who their visitor was.
The Grand Duchess was greatly impressed, after
her visit to the Home, by Mrs. Vicars' wonderful
power and practical knowledge, and by her gentle,
THE END. 371
loving way toward those poor girls ; and this in a
great measure induced her, with the Grand Duke's
consent, to become Patroness of the Albion Home.
At first, when asked by Mrs. Vicars to become the
Patroness, she had refused to do so ; but, having
reconsidered the subject, she wrote to her the
following letter from Darmstadt :
New Palace, Darmstadt.
Dear Mrs. Vicars : — I have returned from visiting
the Home so convinced of your excellent management
of it in every respect, that, if you still feel my be-
coming Patroness of the Home (and of the Ladies'
Association connected with it) can further the good
and noble work, I am most willing to comply with
your request. The spirit of true, loving, Christian
sympathy in which the work was begun by you, and
with which it is carried out ; the cheerfulness you
impart, the motherly solicitude you offer to those
struggling to return to a better life, cannot fail to
restore in a great measure that feehng of self-respect
so necessary to those voluntarily seeking once more
a virtuous life, and by so doing regaining the respect
of their fellow-creatures. " Inasmuch as ye have
done it unto one of the least of these my brethren,
ye have done it unto Me." In this spirit may the
Home, as well as the Association connected with it,
continue its good work. My entire sympathy and
good wishes will ever be with it.
Ever yours truly,
Alice.
After the Grand Duchess' return to Darmstadt,
she devoted herself with redoubled energy to all her
charitable institutions ; but, alas ! she felt more and
372 PRINCESS ALICE.
more that her bodily strength was no longer equal
to her exertions.
In the autumn she had the happiness of seeing
several of her family at Darmstadt, the last of them
being her brother, Prince Leopold.
Darmstadt, "January 26th.
Though I have no letter, and expect none at such
a moment, still I must send you a few lines to tell
you how constantly I think of you, and of my own
beloved and adored country. The anxiety you
must be going through, and the feelings you must
experience, I share with my whole heart. ^ * *
God grant it may be possible to do the right
thing, for it is late, and the complication is dreadful !
I have barely any thoughts for any thing else ; and
the Opposition seems to me to have been more
wrong in its country's interest, and to have done her
a greater harm than can ever be redressed. It is a
serious, awful moment for Sovereign, country, and
Government ; and in your position none have to go
through what you have — and after all so alone !
I hope your health bears up under the anxiety.
April 9th.
* * * Angeli has arrived, and will begin at
once. We thought Ernie and Ella — Victoria is too
big, though she is the eldest and ought to be in the
picture ; she would be too preponderant. Angeli is
quite lost in admiration of Aliky and May, who are,
I must say myself, such a lovely little pair as one
does not often see. He will begin our heads to-
morrow. * * *
Darmstadt, November 6th,
* * * I am but' very middling, and leading a
THE END. 373
very quiet life, which is an absolute necessity. It is
so depressing to be like this. But our home life is
always pleasant — never dull, however quiet. Only
a feeling of weariness and incapacity is in itself a
trial.
On the 8th of November Princess Victoria was
suddenly attacked with diphtheria. How and where
she caught the illness remains unexplained. The
Grand Duchess, always so courageous in illness, and
fearing none, had, however, always had a great
horror of diphtheria. Princess Victoria was at once
isolated from her family and the others in the house ;
but, alas! to no purpose. Princess Alice superin-
tended the nursing, aided by the nurses and the Lady
Superintendent of her hospital. The terrible anxiety
of the poor mother during that illness is best
described by her own telegrams and letters to the
Queen.
Telegrams.
November 8th.
Victoria has diphtheria since this morning. The
fever is hicfh. I am so anxious.
November loth.
Victoria is out of danger.
November 12th.
This night my precious Aliky has been taken ill.
Darmstadt, November 12th.
This is dreadful! my sweet, precious Aliky so ill!
At three this morning Orchic called me, saying she
thought the child was feverish ; complaining of her
throat. I went over to her, looked into her throat,
374
PRINCESS ALICE.
and there were not only spots, but a thick covering
on each side of her throat of that horrid white mem-
brane. I got the steam inhaler, with chlorate of
potash for her at once, but she was very unhappy,
poor little thing. We sent for the doctor, who lives
close by, and who saw at once that it was a severe
case. We have put her upstairs near Victoria, who
is quite convalescent, and have fumigated the nursery
to try and spare May and the others. It is a terrible
anxiety ; it is such an acute, and often fatal, illness.
* * * Victoria has been graciously preserved ;
may God preserve these [the younger ones] also in
His mercy ! My heart is sore ; and I am so anxious.
Telegram. November 13th.
Aliky tolerable. Darling May very ill ; fever so
hio-h. Irene has eot it too. I am miserable ; such
fear for the sweet little one !
On the 14th of November Prince Ernest and the
Grand Duke were attacked with diphtheria, so that,
up to that time. Princess Elizabeth only had escaped
the infection. She was sent to her Grandmother's,
Princess Charles of Hesse's palace.
Telegram. November 15 th.
My precious May no better ; suffers so much. I
am in such horrible fear. Irene and Ernie fever less.
Ernie's throat very swelled. Louis no worse ;
almost no spots. Aliky recovering.
Evening.
Darling May's state unchanged ; heart-rending.
Louis' fever and illness on the increase. The
others, as one could expect ; all severe cases. May's
most alarming.
THE END. 375
The sympathy with the Grand Duchess in her
great anxiety was universal. In many of the church-
es special services were held, praying for the recov-
ery of that dearly beloved family. The well-known
suffering state of the Grand Duchess' own health,
so sorely tried at this moment, caused the gravest
fears to be entertained on her own, account.
On the morning of the i6th of November sweet
little Princess " May" — the Princess' sunshine, as she
ever called her — was taken from her doting parents.
The Grand Duchess telegraphed as follows to her
mother :
November i6th.
* * * Our sweet little one is taken. Broke it
to my poor Louis this morning ; he is better ; Ernie
very, very ill. In great anguish.
Telegrams.
November i6th'; evening.
The pain is beyond words, but " God's will be
done! " Our precious Ernie is still a source of such
terrible fear. The others, though not safe, better.
November 17 th.
Ernie decidedly better ; full of gratitude.
November iSth.
My patients getting better ; hope soon to have
them better. Last painful parting at three o'clock.
The coffin had to be closed very soon. It was
entirely covered with flowers. The Grand Duchess
quietly entered the room where it had been placed.
She knelt down near it, pressing a corner of the
37^ PRINCESS ALICE. .^
pall to her lips ; then she rose, and the funeral ser-
vice began.
When it was over, she cast one long, loving
look at the coffin which hid her darlingf from her.
She then left the room and slowly walked up-stairs.
At the top of the stairs she knelt down , and taking hold
of the golden balustrade, looked into the mirror op-
posite to her to watch the little coffin being taken
out of the house. She was marvellously calm ; only
long-drawn sighs escaped her.
When all had left the palace, she went to the
Grand Duke, who was to be kept in ignorance of all
that was going on. The Grand Duchess had herself
arranged every detail of the funeral.
Telegram. November 19th,
The continued suspense almost beyond endurance.
Ernie thought he was going to die in the night, and
was in a dreadful state for some hours. Louis very
nervous, too ; but they are not worse. The six
cases have been one worse than the other.
Later, November 19th.
Ernie had a relapse, and our fears are increased.
I am in an agony between hope and fear.
The Grand Duchess desired her warmest thanks
to be expressed to the country for their heart-felt
sympathy.
On the 2 5th of November the Grand Duke was
able for the first time to leave his bed for a few
hours, and on the 6th of December he and Prince
Ernest drove out for the first time, in a shut car-
riage.
THE END. 377
It was on this day that the Grand Duchess wrote
for the last time to the Queen.
November 19th.
Beloved Mama : — Tender thanks for your dear,
dear letter, soothing and comforting- !
Our sweet May waits for us up there, ^and is not
going through our agony, thank God ! Her bright,
happy, sunshiny existence has been a bright spot in
our lives — but oh! how short! I don't touch on
the anguish that fills me, for God in His mercy helps
me, and it must be borne ; but to-day, again, the
fear and anxiety for Ernie is still greater. This is
quite agonizing to me ; how I pray that he may be
spared to me !
His voice is so thick ; new membranes have
appeared. He cries at times so bitterly, but he
is gayer just now.
To a mother's heart, who would spare her children
every pain, to have to witness what I have, and am
still doing, knowing all these precious lives hanging
on a thread, is an agony barely to be conceived,
save by those who have gone through it.
:?: * * Your letter says so truly all I feel. I
can but say, in all one's agony there is a mercy and
a peace of God, which even now He has let me
feel. * * *
P.S. — I mean to try and drive a litde this after-
noon. I shall go out with Orchie. Of my six chil-
dren, since a week none more about me, and not
my husband. It is like a very awful dream to me.
November 22d.
Beloved Mama : — Many thanks for your dear let-
ter, and for all the expressions of sympathy shown
by so many ! I am very grateful for it.
378 FHINCESS ALICE.
Dear Ernie having been preserved through the
greatest danger is a source of such gratitude !
These have been terrible days ! He sent a book to
May this morning. It made me almost sick to smile
at the dear boy. But he must be spared yet awhile
what to him will be such a sorrow.
For myself, darling Mama, God has given me
comfort and help in all this trouble, and I am sure
His Spirit will remain near us in the trials to come!
Great sympathy, such as all show, is a balm ; but I
am very tired, and the pain is often very great ; but
pain can be turned into a blessing, and I pray this
may be so. * * *
When alone, I rest ; and writing even is a physical
exertion. Those around me have spared me all they
could, but one must bear the orreaterweisfht one's self.
May God spare you all future sorrow, and give
you the peace which He alone can give !
P.S. — I finish these lines at my dear Louis' bed.
He thanks you so much for your dear, loving sympa-
thy. Thank God , he is doing well. But the pain they
have all gone through in their poor throats has been
awful. The doctors and nurses — eight! for they
have changed day and night, and had such constant
attendance — have been all I could wish.
Your loving child,
Alice.
Darmstadt, December ist.
* * * Every one shows great sympathy, I
hear, everywhere. * * * All classes have
shown a great attachment to us personally, and to
the House, and amongst the common people — it
goes home to them that our position does not sepa-
rate us so very far from them, and that in death,
THE END. 379
danger, and sorrow the palace and the hut are
visited alike.
So many deep and solemn lessons one learns in
these times, and I believe all works tOQfether for
eood for those who believe in God. * - *
December 2d.
So many pangs and pains come, and must yet for
years to come. Still gratitude for those left is so
strong, and indeed resignation entire and complete
to a higher will ; and so we all feel together, and
encourage each other. Life is not endless in this
world, God be praised ! There is much joy — but
oh ! so much trial and pain ; and, as the number of
those one loves increases in Heaven, it makes our
passage easier — and honze is there !
Ever your loving child,
Alice.
December 6th.
Louis and Ernie will go out In a shut carriage to-
day, though it rains — but it is warm. Louis' strength
returns so slowly. Of course he shuns the return to
life, where our loss will be more realized ; to him,
shut off so long, it is more like a dream. I am so
thankful they were all spared the dreadful realities I
went through — and alone. My cup seemed very
full, and yet I have been enabled to bear it. But
daily I must struggle and pray for resignation ; it is
a cruel pain and one that will last years, as I know
but too well.
Ever your loving child,
A.
Amoncrst the last letters from the Grand Duchess
is one written on the 6th of December, instructing
Prince Ernest's new tutor In his duties. Princess
3 So miNCESS ALICE.
Alice wished her son to become a truly good man in
every sense of the word — upright, truthful, coura-
geous, unselfish, ready to help others, modest and
retirino-. She wished his tutor to encourage in him
fear of God and submission to His will, a high sense
of duty, a feeling of honor and of truth.
It had been settled that as soon as the convales-
cent patients were able to be moved, the whole
Grand Ducal family should go to Heidelberg for
thorough change of air.
On the 7th of December the Grand Duchess went
to the railway station to see the Duchess of Edin-
burgh, who was passing through Darmstadt on her
way to England. That night she first complained of
feeling ill ; and on the following morning the unmis-
takable symptoms of diphtheria had begun to show
themselves. It is supposed that she must have
taken the infection, when one day, in her grief and
despair, she had laid her head on her sick husband's
pillow. During the first day of her illness she set-
tled several things, and gave various orders in case
of her death. Still it was evident that she thouofht
she would recover.
She bore her great sufferings with wonderful pa-
tience, and was most obedient to every thing the
doctors ordered her to do, however painful and try-
ing. Those were terrible days ! How much so to
her is apparent from short sentences which from
time to time she wrote down on slips of paper.
Every thing was done to alleviate her sufferings —
THE END. 381
every thing to encourage her. The high fever which
set in at the commencement of the illness did not
decrease on the third day as in the previous cases,
though her sufferings were perhaps not so great.
At times she was very restless and distressed. In
the night of the 12th of December she gave many
directions to her mother-in-law, and to her lady-in-
waiting. At times, too, she spoke in the most
touching manner about her household, also enquir-
ing kindly after poor and sick people in the town.
Then followed hours of great prostration.
On the morning of the 13th of December the doc-
tors could no lonofer disguise from the Grand Duke
that their efforts to save that beloved life were in
vain. As the danger increased, the Grand Duchess
expressed herself as feeling better. She received her
mother-in-law that afternoon in the most affection-
ate manner ; also saw her lady-in-waiting ; and when
the Grand Duke entered her room her joy was most
evident. She even read two letters — the last one
being from her mother. After some hours of heavy
sleep she woke perfectly conscious and took some
nourishment. She then composed herself to rest,
saying : " Now I will go to sleep again." And out
of this sleep she woke no more.
Shortly after i a.m. on the 14th of December a
change took place which left no doubt to those
around that that precious life was fast ebbing away.
When, a little later on, Princess Charles went into
the Grand Duke's room, who was then asleep, she
382 FJilNCESS .ALICE.
had left the Grand Duchess perfectly unconscious.
It required no words of his mother's to break the
news to him.
At half-past eight that morning Princess Alice
died peacefully, murmuring to herself, like a child
going to sleep : " From Friday to Saturday — four
weeks — May — dear Papa ! "
It was exactly to the day four weeks since Princess
May's death, and seventeen years since the death of
the Prince Consort. On the following Tuesday even-
ing, the 1 7th of December, after a solemn service held
by the English chaplain, the remains of the beloved
Princess were quietly removed from her own palace
to the chapel in the Grand Ducal Castle. The next
day, amidst the universal grief of high and low, the
coffin was placed in the Mausoleum at the Rosen-
hohe. Her brothers, the Prince of Wales and Prince
Leopold, were present.
A beautiful recumbent monument by Boehm, rep-
resenting the Princess holding Princess May in her
arms, is now placed in the Mausoleum over the spot
where she rests.
CONCLUDING REMARKS.
WE must leave it to those who have read the
preceding pages — mere chronicle of facts
as they are, to form their own idea of the character
and personality of the Princess.
Still, the disjointed manner in which the whole
subject has been treated seems to call for a few more
additional remarks.
The world has long been acquainted with the out-
ward appearance of the Princess — with the delicacy
of her features, the sweetness of their expression,
and the dignity and gracefulness of her every move-
ment. Though so perfectly natural and simple in
manner, she never forgot that she was a Princess.
While she knew how to encourasfe and draw out
those who, from timidity, kept themselves in the
background, she also understood how, in a moment,
to check any thing like forwardness, and, where
necessary, to silence presumption by a glance.
Her conversation was bright and animated, pass-
ing rapidly from topic to topic, but always directed
to subjects worth talking about. There was a cer-
tain distinction in the way she dealt even with minor
383
384 PRINCESS ALICE.
matters of daily life. She spoke German with a
slightly foreign accent, but with a power of idiomatic
expression that seldom failed her, and showed how
thoroughly she had mastered the genius of the lan-
guage.
Occupation was a necessity to her ; she could not
understand how any one could be idle. When at
home, she always had some needlework at hand
ready to take up.
The Princess was singularly free from all preju-
dice, and always endeavored to judge people accord-
inof to their worth.
It sometimes happened that she offended people
by her independent views, but she never knowingly
hurt anybody's feelings ; innate generosity was a
strikinsf trait in her character.
Frank and sincere herself to an unusual degree,
she always encouraged others to be the same, and
was most tolerant of well-grounded contradiction.
In times of trouble and danger, when so much was
expected of her, her powers seemed to expand. It
was in such moments that she really showed the
master-spirit, which remains calm and self-possessed
when all around lose their heads.
The Princess took the deepest interest in the
personal welfare of all around her, even to the hum-
blest of her servants. This interest was shown by
many small services, seldom rendered to their ser-
vants by masters or mistresses.
With all her appreciation of the purely theoretical
CONCLUDING REMARKS. 385
and scientific aspect of things, she was naturally of a
very practical turn of mind. She had few equals in
her love and talent for oro-anizinsf, for communicatino-
her own ideas to those around her, and in turn being-
animated by the views of others. Thus it was that
she expected not a little from those about her, and
might almost have given the impression of a very
restless nature, had not this activity been counter-
balanced by an unceasing perseverance in carrying
out and adhering to what she had once undertaken.
To become acquainted with great men of every
profession, whether scholars, artists, or men of
science, was a real pleasure to her. She loved to
gain an insight into their thoughts and views, and
proved herself a very German in her admiration and
appreciation of serious scientific work.
Among the arts, music and painting were those
she loved the best, and cultivated the most. In both
she was far ahead of even distinguished amateurs.
Her drawing was free, firm, and bold ; she had a
decided talent for composition, and was rich in
inventive power. She had a wonderful eye for
color, and was especially successful in water-colors.
She was an excellent musician, and played ex-
tremely well. Few could read and understand diffi-
cult pieces at sight as the Princess did. In music,
as in all the arts, her taste was rather severe. She
had a great predilection for the classical school.
Bach, Beethoven, and Schumann, Schubert, Mendels-
sohn, and Brahams were her especial favorites.
386 PRINCESS ALICE.
In theatrical performances she disHked empty
show and splendor — the mere decoration of pieces
for the love of decoration. She believed in the
ennobling influence of the representation of sound
classical works.
Her whole being mentally and morally was con-
centrated in her children and their education, and in
this she showed herself to be a thorough woman.
She endeavored to make them feel the worth and
greatness of both the nations to which they belonged
by birth. She was apt to be more severe in her
criticisms of the German mode of education and of
moral training than of that of her own country.
That this should have been so is easily to be ex-
plained. In Germany her life and work were not
easy, and she knew that it would take time before
her endeavors for the welfare of her adopted country
met with recognition, whilst in England, the country
of her birth and her affection, to which she clung
with ever-increasinof reverence and devotion, she
knew she was ever becoming- more beloved.
Still, being so thoroughly English as she was, we
cannot but say that much that was best and finest in
her character must be considered as the inheritance
of her German father. A nature such as the
Princess' could not help coming in contact with
many deep aud serious questions, in which religion
alone could help her.
The traces of perfect trust in God, and entire sub-
mission to His will, will be found throughout her
CONCLUDING REMARKS. 387
letters. We know that at one time she wavered in
her convictions.. Although she never doubted the
value of practical religion, although she ever turned
to her Bible for help and comfort in hours of distress
and anxiety, she had to wrestle heart and soul with
theoretical doubts. It seems to have been a struggle
of many years' duration, at the commencement and
end of which personal influences played a great part.
We are indebted to an intimate friend and relation
of Princess Alice's for the following communication,
which is in accord with the observations of others
who knew her :
"After her son's death I thought I observed a
change in her feelings. Before that time she had
often expressed openly her doubts as to the existence
of God — had allowed herself to be led away by the
free-thinking philosophical views of others. After
Prince Fritz died she never spoke in such a way
again. She remained silent while a transformation
was quietly going on within, of which I afterwards
was made aware, under the influence of some hidden
power. It seemed as if she did not then like to own
the change that had come over her.
" Some time afterwards she told me herself, in the
most simple and touching manner, how this change
had come about. I could not listen to her story
without tears. The Princess told me she owed it all
to her child's death, and to the influence of a Scotch
gentleman, a friend of the Grand Duke's and the
Grand Duchess', who was residing with his family
at Darmstadt.
" ' I owe all to this kind friend,' she said, ' who
exercised such a beneficial influence on my religious
388 PJilNCESS ALICE.
views ; yet people say so much that is cruel and un-
just of him, and of my acquaintance with him.' At
another time she said : ' The whole edifice of phil-
osophical conclusions which I had built up for my-
self, I find to have no foundation whatever ; noth-
ing of it is left; it has crumbled away like dust.
What should we be, what would become of us, if we
had no faith, if we did not believe that there is a God
who rules the world and each single one of us ? I
feel the necessity of prayer ; I loved to sing hymns
with my children, and we have each our favorite
hymn.' *
" I remember observing that her table in her room
was covered with religious books of all languages.
Some of them she recommended to me."
The German Protestant form of worship did not
satisfy her. Her own English liturgy, with its fine
simple prayers and benedictions, with its many ap-
pointed lessons from Holy Writ — the old Testament
especially, — with its sermons confined to a limited
time, pleased her more. At the same time she
always acknowledged with gratitude and admiration
that the great spiritual hero who was the first to de-
mand as a right absolute sincerity in the life of faith,
and so brought on the Reformation, was a German.
The Princess had a very wide knowledge of history,
Her political opinions were independent, entirely
free from party prejudice, and based on the principle
she had imbibed from her father — that Princes exist
for the welfare of their people.
* This memorandum does not go far enough. The Princess returned to
the faith in which she was reared, and died in it, a devout Christian.
CONCLUDING REMARKS.
389
Future generations must ever acknowledge how
the Princess Alice throughout her life strove to ful-
fil the saying of her favorite hero in history, " the
great Fritz" (Frederic the Great, in his •' Anaima-
chiavell"): " The rulers of nations must set the ex-
ample of virtue to the world."
APPENDIX.
THE beautiful sketch which follows appeared in
the Darmstddier Zeihuio-, dated " Christmas
Eve, 1878 " ; and the annexed translation of it, by
Sir Theodore Martin, appeared a few days afterward
in the Times.
A WATCHER BY THE DEAD.
Long, long before daybreak on one of those
gloomy December days of last week, an officer made
his way hurriedly along the empty, silent streets of
the capital. He was in full uniform, but its pomp
and splendor were shrouded in a thick covering
of crape, for he was afoot thus early to do duty by the
bier of the beloved Princess. Desolate were the
streets, as of a city of the dead ; desolate as though
tenanted only by the dead was the lordly palace
to which he bent his steps. The sentinels at the
great gate stood motionless, despite the severe cold,
as if they feared to disturb the repose of death.
Here, where the inhabitants of the capital used to
see all astir with the busy, cheerful life inseparable
from the residence of a reigning Prince; here, where
in da)s but recently gone by children, blooming and
beautiful, the country's pride and the joy of their
princely parents, gave animation to house and garden,
39 f
392 PHINCESS ALICE.
all was silent and void ; a deadly blast had swept over
the till now so happy home. The country's young,
idolized mother had closed her beautiful eyes, closed
them for evermore, after doing and enduring nobly,
after tasting the bitterness of great earthly sorrow.
Many long and woful days, many nights of even
greater anguish, had she watched, trembled, and
prayed by the couch of a husband sick unto death,
and of five children beloved past telling. The sweet,
youngest bud in the fair wreath of princely children,
had been torn from her bleeding heart, and tears —
scalding tears — for the sweet little May-blossom,
which she had herself put to its last sleep under
chaplets of flowers, flowed fast, as she folded her
hands in gratitude, when the peril of death had
passed over the heads of her husband and her other
children. " Thus do we learn humility !" she said,
with quivering lip, to a lady who stood beside her.
" God has called for one life, and has given me back
five for it ; how, then, should I mourn } " And now,
when, with fear and trembling, joy seemed about to
enter once more into that heavily-stricken home,
again the dark pinions of the Angel of Death were
heard upon the air, and he bore away the truest
of wives, the most loving of mothers, a sacrifice to
duty fulfilled with the noblest forgetfulness of self.
These were the thoughts with which the solitary
wayfarer went upon his sorrowful way, and crossed
the threshold of the chamber of death. With lieht
step and whispered words the watchers by the dead
whom he relieved withdrew.
Overwhelmed by the majesty of death, which met
him here in its most sombre form, the new comer
bent his head and continued long in silent prayer.
The Princess lay on a bier in the great hall on the
APPENDIX. 393
ground-floor, where she had so often sat surrounded
by a radiant -circle of guests. What of her was
earthly, cased in a triple cerement, was covered with
a pall of black velvet, which, however, was almost hid
from view beneath a mass of flowers and palms.
Upon the head of the coffin stood a little, simple
crucifix of perfect artistic workmanship. Six torches
on pedestals, hung with black, stood round the bier,
shedding but a feeble glimmer through the hall,
scarcely brighter, indeed, than the scanty liglit of the
dawning winter day. From the wall opposite the
coffin the youthful image of her husband, painted in
happier times, looked sadly clown upon the loved
one lost. Directly opposite hung the picture which
the Hessian Division had had painted for their much-
loved leader, in remembrance of the glorious day of
Gravelotte — a picture of battle and of the wild vielee
of slaughter in the silent chamber of death. He
who now watched by the coffin had played a part in
the conflict of the memorable day which the picture
was meant to perpetuate, and he knew how deeply
it was interwoven wMth the life of the Princess
who lay there in her long last sleep. Her dear
husband had gone to the campaign with his faithful
Hessians ; she knew his precious life to be in hourly
danger ; but her own sorrows and cares were
not her first thought. Helpful, comforting, encourag-
ing, she gave at all times to those who were left be-
hind a brilliant example of cheerful and devoted
courage ; and when the wounded and sick came
back Irom the battlefields in ever-increasing num-
bers, she it was who everywhere took the lead with
noblest self-abnegation and practical good sense.
By the beds of the sick and dying she stood like
a comfortinof anrrel, and the love of the Hessian
394 PRIJVCESS ALICE.
people twined the fairest of all diadems, the aureole
of the heroine, round her princely brows.
This grateful love, not only of those who bore
arms, but of the citizen and artisan as well, for which
these things laid the foundation, was now sincerely
and unconstrainedly busy beside the bier of the
princely sleeper. Servants came, with loads of
wreaths and bouquets, and arranged them upon the
coffin. But it was not the official tributes of flowers
from Court and noble, from the deputations of regi-
ments far and near, which were laid as a mournful
homage at the feet of the dead mistress, that touched
most deeply the heart of him who stood there on
guard. No, the tear that stole down unbidden, the
little trivial gift of the poor and humble who lived
far away from Court favor, had a greater value in his
eyes. It was still quite early morning when, with
the first glimmer of day, came an old peasant woman
from the Odenwald. Advancing timidly, she laid,
with a murmured prayer, a little wreath of rosemary,
with a couple of small white flowers, perhaps the
only ornament of her poor little room at home, as a
token of grateful affection down upon the velvet pall.
Then, thinking herself unnoticed, she took a rosebud
from one of the splendid wreaths, and hid it under
the old woollen dress. Who could interfere to balk
the impulse of genuine affection, that longed to carry
off some slight memorial with it ? And now the
little flower is lying between the leaves of the old
Bible, and in days to come the matron, when she
turns the leaves of the sacred volume, will tell her
daughters and granddaughters of the noble lady, too
early snatched away from her people — of her, who
never forgot the poorest and the humblest of them all.
Anon appeared the bearer of one of the proudest
APPENDIX. 395
names in Hesse, who was attached to the personal
service of the Princess. The official, stalwart bear-
ing- of the courier was left outside, and, weeping hot,
unhidden tears, he lingered long by the bier. To
what a lofty soul, to what goodness of heart, was he
saying here a bitter farewell ! He was followed by
two little girls, poorly but cleanly dressed, and they,
too, brought their tribute of gratitude — two little
bunches of violets. Shyly, almost frightened, and
yet with childish curiosity, they drew slowly nearer.
They thought of another winter day, some years ago.
Hungry, chilled to the heart, they were sitting in an
empty attic ; their parents were dead, and they ate
among strangers bread that Vv'as hard and grudgingly
given, when that great lady appeared who was now
sleeping here under the flowers. From her, whose
heart was ever yearning to the orphan's cry, they
heard again, for the first time, gende, loving words ;
by her provision was quickly made for their more
kindly treatment, and gratitude was rooted firmly
and forever in their young souls.
A deputation from the Court Theatre laid upon
the coffin a wreath intertwined with pale pink
streamers. Art, too, had come to mourn for her
noblest patroness, who had been ever ready with her
fine, cultivated intelligence to advance whatever was
great and good. A servant brought a beautiful
cross, of dark foliage with white flowers. It was the
gift of the Grand Duke's mother, anxious to testify
by an outward sign her love for her dead daughter.
In ever-erowine numbers came the mourners, all
visibly oppressed by the weight of the calamity which
had fallen upon the country. Countless were the
gifts of love, of gratitude, of respect, which, now
beautiful and costly, now slight and simple, arched
39^ PJilNCESS ALICE.
ever higher and higher the hill of flowers above the
coffin. The ladies of the neighboring towns sent
cushions of dark violets, with chaplets of white
flowers. Two ladies deeply veiled brought branches
of palm, from the dark green of which gleamed a
white scroll — a poetic farewell word of deep feeling :
A hurricane, charged with destruction,
O palm, swept o'er thee. The squall
Crashed through thy leaves, and tore from thee
The tenderest, sweetest of all.
The clouds clear'd away in the distance,
The tempest seem'd over and past,
When forth from the firmament darted
A lightning-bolt, fiery and fast.
It struck thee, O noble one, struck thee !
It crush'd thee, and now thou art gone !
Farewell ! To our death-day thine image
Still, still in our hearts shall live on.
There was a second poem, enclosed in a heart-
shaped framework of leaves, which gave expression
to the grief of a devoted soul for the high-hearted
lady.
But now the hour was come for another to take
the post of honor by the bier of the Princess. Silently
and sadly the two men saluted. He that left took
away with him a deep and elevating impression of
the general love and respect paid by the people of
Hesse to their too-early departed Princess, and the
remembrance of that silent watch by the dead will
remain in his memory forever. And he who nov/
entered on that honorable duty could chronicle proofs
of genuine grief, of true reverence and love, not
fewer nor less touching. Whosoever is thus bewept
has secured the best and fairest memorial in the
APPENDIX. 397
hearts of her own people for all time — "The remem-
brance of the just abideth in blessing."
Nothinof could show better than this touchinof nar-
rative, how deep and how widespread was the grief
for the death of the Princess throughout the country
which had so recently hailed her as its Sovereign.
Not less deep and universal was the sorrow with
which the sad intelligence was received in her native
land. She had long been dear to all hearts there ;
for the fame of her many admirable qualities as
daughter, sister, wile, and mother had penetrated in-
to every houshold. The news that her life was In
peril had awakened the deepest sympathy ; and
when the anniversary of the death of the father she
loved so well brouMit the tidings of her own death,
there were few homes on which it did not cast a
shadow as for the loss of one that was personally
dear. The journals teemed with expressions of the
national grief, each vying with the other in paying
affectionate tribute to the worth of one whose name
had long been familiar and cherished on the lips of
her countrymen and countrywomen, and in assur-
ances of sympathy to the Queen, and the loving hearts
of her kindred, on whom this great calamity had fal-
len.
It may not be out of place to insert here, as an
example of these, what was written out of a full
heart on the day of the Princess' death by the hand
which had not yet concluded the task of tracing the
"Life of the Prince Consort," in which the Princess
398 PRINCESS ALICE.
had all alonof taken the keenest interest. The letters
printed in this volume afford the amplest proof of the
justice of the estimate which the writer had formed
of the gifted and devoted woman whose heart is
there laid bare for our study and instruction.
" Oh, sir, the good die first,
And those whose hearts are dry as summer dust
Burn to the socket." — Wordsworth.
December 14th, 1878.
On the 14th of December, seventeen years ago, a
great sorrow fell upon England in the death of the
Prince Consort, who, if he did not die too soon for
his own happiness and fame, died at least, as all now
feel, too soon for England. The memorable 14th of
December has again come round, and again a great
sorrow has fallen upon the country. The Princess
has been taken to her rest, who watched and soothed
the Prince Consort in the last days of his fatal illness,
and who by her fortitude and noble devotion helped
materially, though then but a girl of seventeen, to
sustain and comfort the widowed Queen in her
measureless affliction. For the first time a breach —
and such a breach — has been made in that family cir-
cle to which all who had the priviledge to know it
looked as the happiest in England — happiest, because
mutual love and esteem bound all its members to-
gether by ties knit in childhood and never broken,
and because of the noble activity for good which had
been set before them in the example of their parents
kept their hearts fresh and their minds ever open.
She who, while yet a girl, was called to play a
woman's part by her father's deathbed, has been the
first to follow him into the Silent Land.
No life could have opened more auspiciously than
APPENDIX. 399
that of the second daughter of our Royal house.*
From the first she gave great promise of beauty and
of intelHeence. The fine old Eno^Hsh names of Alice
and Maud, selected for her by her happy parents,
seemed as names sometimes do, to be particularly
fitted to the winning, open character of her fair and
finely-formed features, and their sound was one pleas-
ant in the mouths, not only of those to whom she
was known, but of the people, as she grew up and was
seen in public by the eager and kindly eyes to whom
the sight of the Royal children has always been wel-
come.
When the marriage of the Princess Royal took
place in i858, the Princess Alice was still only a girl
of fifteen ; but she had already developed qualities
of mind and heart of no ordinary kind. She came
by degrees to fill up in some measure the vacancy
which had been created by the removal of her very
gifted sister to Berlin. Naturally she was drawn
nearer to the Prince Consort ; and the influence of
his character and the teachings of his affectionate
wisdom sank deeply into her pure and highly intel-
lectual nature. He looked forward to her future
with the assurance that she would prove all he could
wish a daughter to be. She, on the other hand,
loved him with a devotion only tempered by a pro-
found reverence for the great quahties which she
could then, perhaps, but dimly appreciate, but the
* " She is a pretty and large baby, and we think will be la Beaut/ oi the
family." — 7'he Queen to Kiiiif Leopold, 9th May, 1843.
" Our little ljal)y, wliom 1 am really proud <jf, for she is so very forward
for her age, is to be called Alice, an old English name ; and the other names
are to be 7^/rt«</ (another old English name, and the same as Matilda), and
Mary, as she was born on Aunt Gloucester's birthday." — The same to the same
l6th May, 1843.
"Our christening went off very brilliantly, and I wish you could have
witnessed it. Notliing could Ijc more a>isldii'dii;, and little Alice behaved ex-
tremely well." — 'J he same to the same, 6ih June, 1S43.
40O FJilNCESS ALICE.
true extent and worth of which her own subsequent
experience and reflection taught her more thoroughly
to measure. When in later years she spoke of the
Prince, one saw that, as Ben Jonson said of Shake-
speare, " she honored his memory, on this side idol-
atry, as much as any."
The teaching of that beloved father was put to the
proof in those sad days of patient watching which
preceded his death. Things were told at the time
of the devotion and the marvellous self-control of the
young girl, called so sternly and so suddenly to face
death in the person of a father, on whose life that of
the Queen herself seemed to depend, and whose
counsels she knew to be of inestimable value to the
nation. A few days after the Prince's death, she
was spoken of by the Times in these noticeable
•words : " Of the devotion and strength of mind
shown by the Princess Alice all through these trying
scenes it is impossible to speak too highly. Her
Royal Highness has, indeed, felt that it was her place
to be a comfort and a support to her mother in her
affliction, and to her dutiful care we may perhaps
owe it that the Queen has borne her loss with ex-
emplary resignation, and a composure which, under
so sudden and terrible a bereavement, could not
have been anticipated." The knowledge of this fact
— and it was a fact — sank deeply into people's
minds. It was never forgotten, and from that day
the name of the Princess Alice has been a cherished
household word to all her countrymen and women.
When, in 1862, she married the husband of her
choice — a man whose sterlinof worth and manliness
had satisfied even the critical judgment of parents
jealous for the happiness of a daughter so justly dear
— the affectionate good wishes of the Queen's subjects
APPENDIX. 401
of all grades went with her to her new home. In that
home, brightened and ennobled as it was by her pres-
ence, her love for the home and country of her youth
burned with a steady and ever-deepening glow. It
is only those who know how strong is the mutual
love by which the children of Queen Victoria are
bound to their parent and to each other, who can
appreciate the passionate yearning toward England
of the Princesses whose homes have been made
elsewhere. England and all its interests held a fore-
most place in the heart of the Princess Alice ; and
no one watched more closely every phase of the
changeful life of the busy land, which she loved and
reverenced as the home of liberty and the pioneer of
civilization.
While fulfilling with exemplary devotion every
duty as a wife and mother, the process of self-culture
was never relaxed. Every refined taste was kept
alive by fresh study, fresh practice, fresh observa-
tion ; neither was any effort spared to keep abreast
with all that the best intellects of the time were
adding to the stores of invention, of discovery, of
observation, and of thought. Each successive year
taught her better to estimate the value of the princi-
ples in religion, in morals, and in politics in which
she had been trained. As her knowledofe of the
world and of men grew, she could see the wide
range of fact upon which they were based, and their
fitness as guides amid the perplexing experiences of
human life, which, however seemingly varied in
different epochs, are ever essentially the same.
Then the significance of the Prince Consort's habit
of judging every thing by some governing principle,
and working always by strict method, became clear
to her; and in a letter written in January 1875, of
402 PRINCESS ALICE.
which a copy is before us, the Princess writes with
her accustomed modesty : " Living with thinking
and cultivated Germans, much in Papa has explained
itself to me, which formerly I could less understand,
or did not appreciate so much as I ought to have
done."
She inherited much of her father's practical good
sense, and, like him, was ever ready to take part in
any well-directed effort for raising the condition of
the toilworn and the poor. How much of their
misery, nay, of their evil ways, was due to their
wretched habitations, she, like him, felt most keenly ;
and she gave her sympathy and support to every
effort for their improvement. With this view she
translated into German some of Miss Octavia Hill's
essays " On the Homes of the London Poor," and pub-
lished them with a little preface of her own (to which
only her initial A. was affixed), in the hope that the
principles, which had been successfully applied in
London by Miss Hill and her coadjutors, might be
put into action in some of the German cities. No
good work appealed to her in vain. The great
exemplar of her father was always before her ; and
in the letter from which we have already quoted she
speaks of his life, " spent in the highest aims, and
with the noblest conception of duty," as a " leading
star " to her own.
That sense of duty carried her to the bedside of
the Prince of Wales when, at the end of 1871, he
was struck down at Sandringham by the fell disease
under which his father had sunk. There she fulfilled
the same priceless offices which she had ten years
before discharged at Windsor Castle. It pleased
Heaven to spare her a renewal of the great affliction
of 1 86 1 ; and in the very days of December in which
APPENDIX. 403
we are now living, the life of the much-loved brother,
which had been wellnigh despaired of, came slowly
back to requite her affection, and in answer to her
prayers.
The trials of that time came, before the exhaustion
had passed away both of body and mind which the
Princess had undergone during^ the Franco-German
war. Separated — and for the second time — by war
from the Prince of Hesse, who was away in the
thickest of the perils of that campaign, she was not a
woman to give herself up to morbid brooding on the
pangs and apprehensions under which, devoted wife
as she was, she yet could not fail to suffer most
acutely, for her feelings were warm, and her imagina-
tion active beyond that of most women. In the hos-
pital at Darmstadt, crowded with the soldiers, French
as well as German, who had come from the battle-
fields maimed and racked with pain, she was foremost
with her bright intelligence, her helpful sympathy,
and her tender hand, in soothing pain, and inspiring
that sense of manly gratitude which is the best of
panaceas to a soldier's sick-bed. What she was and
what she did at that time have embalmed her image
in many a heart, and will make the tears flow thick
and fast in many manly eyes at the thought of the
death of one so young, so good, so gifted, and so
fair. To her it was merely duty — duty to be done
at every cost ; but how much it had cost to that
finely touched spirit and to that delicate womanly
frame might be read, by all who could look below
the surface, in the deep earnestness of her eyes and
the deeper earnestness of her thoughts. The pain
of that terrible period would not let itself be forgot-
ten even in the gratitude which she felt for the
providence which restored her beloved husband
404 PjRINCESS ALICE.
to her side, and for the realization of her father's
cherished dream of an United Germany, which had
been purchased by the valor and the sufferings of
its-sons.
The Princess' fortitude had already been severely
tried in the war between Prussia and Austria in 1866.
Hesse- Darmstadt was engaged upon the side of
Austria, and her husband, Prince Louis, took the
field with the troops of the Principality. At the very
time that his third daughter, the Princess Irene, was
born, he was with the army ; and the Princess Alice
knew he was under fire but was unable to get any
tidin^rs from him. The victorious Prussians marched
into Darmstadt, while the Princess, newly made a
mother, was still confined to her room.
Of the sad aspects of life it had been her destiny
to see much — as daughter, as sister, and as mother.
In June, 1873, a terrible calamity fell upon her as
a mother. A child — one especially beloved — climb-
ing to an open window in a room adjoining that in
which she was, lost its balance, and was killed
almost before her eyes, as she rushed in terror to
call him back. This, too, had to be borne. It was
borne nobly, and with Christian resignation. But
such shocks tell upon the vital powers, and some
trace of what had been " undergone and overcome "
seemed to be visible long afterward in a perceptible
bodily languor, and in a more spiritual beauty which
had passed into her expressive face.
The thought of this sent an anxious thrill throuQfh
the hearts of many, when it became known that the
Princess was herself seized by the terrible malady
which had prostrated her husband and five of her
children, and taken from her the youngest of them
all — the youngest, the brightest, the idol of her other
APPENDIX. 405
children.* She had nursed them all through their
time of danger, and now, spent with watching and
anxiety as she was, the malady had laid its fatal
clutch upon herself. She that had cared and thought
for all was soon past all human care to save. Thus
she died as she had lived, devoted, self-sacrificing,
purified by great pain and great love — a model
daughter — wife — mother.
Of the loss of such a woman to the husband
to whom she was the all-in-all, to the children
to whose love she will respond no more, to the
mother in whose thoughts she is interwoven with
the sweetest, the saddest, the most sacred memories,
to the brothers and sisters whom she loved and who
loved her so truly, so tenderly, who dare trust him-
self to speak ? It must be long before the grief can
be assuaeed, under which all these must now be
suffering — before the " Idea of her life can sweetly
creep," as something hallowed, " into their study of
imagination" ; but the day will come when they will
bless God, that theirs was a wife, a daughter, a
sister, a mother, so good, so noble, and that, having
fought her fight on earth valiantly, yet meekly, she
has gone where there is no more sorrow, nor crying,
and where the great mysteries of life alone find their
solution. Theodore Martin.
Of the many beautiful tributes in verse to the
worth of the Princess, which appeared in England
* The struggle to conceal from the other children tliat their favorite was
dead cost the I'rincess, down to the lime of her own fatal seizure, such a
daily and almost hourly effort as, in her weak state, she was ill able to bear.
Pier sufferings during her short illness, which lasted less than a week, were
borne with exemplary patience, and an unselfish and even cheerful
spirit which were truly admirable. The day before she died, she expressed
to Sir William Jenner her regret that she should cause her mother so much
anxiety.
406 PRINCESS ALICE.
immediately after her death, none spoke the prevail-
ing feeling more truly than the following : —
IN MEMORIAM.
Princess Alice: </zVd^ December 14th, 1878.
Death's shadow falls across the Palace door,
His fingers trace our dear Princess' doom ;
"She will awake no more ; ah ! never more ! "
And through the murky night the big bells boom.
But in the gray of morning hope appears,
And treading in death's footprints entrance seeketh
Where lonely grief is weeping bitter tears,
And whispers low — " She being dead yet speaketh."
And at the voice of hope the black clouds break,
And through the rift there shines God's glorious light ;
And we who mourn look up and solace take
As those to whom comes day — dawn after night.
"She being dead yet speaketh " — all may hear
The message left us by her lovely life
In deeds that live, in actions that endear.
As Princess, sister, daughter, mother, wife !
The fierce rude light that beats upon a throne
For which so many royal heads are hid,
Served but to make her worth more widely known,
To glorify the acts of grace she did.
A favorite sister ! She the love had earn'd
Her brothers and her sisters for her felt,
By her devotion which had brightest burn'd
When with disease and threatening death she dealt.
A darling daughter ! 'T is the Queen alone
Can know the secret of that awful time,
When at the father's side by her were shown
A faith and constancy alike sublime.
APPENDIX. 40
A doting mother ! What could she do more
Than for her little one her life lay down ?
No heroine thail this could higher soar —
No grander deed a noble life could crown !
A perfect wife ! The heavy veil of grief
Back from the stricken hearth we will not draw,
Save but to say her life, alas ! too brief,
Her husband found without one spot or flaw.
Then let not grief persuade us she is dead ;
She has but left us for a fairer shore ;
And though her spirit heav'nwards may have fled,
Her influence remains for evermore.
— Truth
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