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 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL: 1889-1890 
 G, Loring 
 
 Published on demand by 
 UNIVERSITY MICROFILMS INTERNATIONAL 
 
 Ann Arbor, Michigan, U.S. A. ■ London, England 
 
 ""^m^^m^^^^^^^Bm^m^^m^^^m
 
 THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 LOS ANGELES
 
 This is an authorized facsimile of the original book, 
 
 and was produced in 1977 by microfihn-xerography 
 
 by University Microfihns International 
 
 Ann Arbor, Michigan, U.S.A. 
 
 London, England
 
 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 889- 1 890 
 
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 TO 
 
 MY DAUGHTER
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 TiiK following journal was written during a rapid 
 jonrncy to Portugal and a year's residence in Lisbon 
 and Cintra. It also covers a month spent in a trip 
 to Rome and Gibraltar and vSevillc. I have not en- 
 deavored to discuss elaborately the objects I have 
 seen, but to give a view of the life of rn American 
 Minister abroad, and to let light in upon the condition 
 of Portugal, to which Court I was accre<lited. The 
 advantages one enjoys who travels in Ivurope with 
 a commission as a representative of the United States, 
 or any other power, are great ; and I have been en- 
 couraged to believe that I have familiarly witnessed 
 many a scene wliich T should not have etijoyed had I 
 been present as a private citizen. The knowledge of 
 Portugal, moreover, is not extensive, and I have been 
 strongly inclined to sketch a country which has a mo.st 
 tlclightlul climate and most charming scenery, is full of 
 romantic tradiliojis, and has been the theatre of S(mie 
 of the most remarkable events in history. From the 
 days of I)om nenricpies to the days of l)om Carlos, 
 Portugal has contributed a large share of the con- 
 tentious history of ICurope ; and now, after fifty years 
 of peace, it enjoys an opportunity to become a most 
 important kingdom. If tliis journal conveys, even in 
 a small degree, the pleasure I enjoyed in the beauti- 
 ful scenery of Portugal and in viewing the memorials 
 of its greatness, I ohall be content. 
 
 C.l'.UKC.l' H. LORING. 
 
 V
 
 CONTRNTS. 
 
 CIIAPTKK I. 
 
 rAUK 
 
 LONU)N TO LISBON . t 
 
 CHAPTHI^ II. 
 CiNTRA AND MAFKA .29 
 
 CliAPTi;i? III. 
 
 rOKIlJGUIiSI-: AdKICIILUlKli, AUDIIiNCli WITH TUf K'NG. 
 
 bliAIII dl' l)( iM AIIC.IISTO 4! 
 
 CIlAi'TliU IV. 
 
 CINTRA, I'CjKTIKJUI.SI; III.KOIiS. DliATlI AND FDNIRAL 
 
 or TIII-: KIN(J , . . ." 63 
 
 CIlAl'iliU V. 
 TORRliS VliDKAS. MliMIICA. AI.COBAr.A . . . Sy 
 
 CHAl'THR VI. 
 COIMBRA.-CAMOtNS. DONA THLLES.-F'OMBAL . . 102 
 
 CHAPTHR VII. 
 
 THt HtROtS AND GAKDIiNS t tl" CINIRA ... 120 
 
 vii
 
 viii CONTENTS. 
 
 cnAi'ii;u viii. 
 
 fAf.m 
 
 THi; NOR (11 or i'ljKTlKiAI., nil; AIIJIM. -MR. K, W. 
 
 I;MI;KS(JN 143 
 
 c:nAi'Ti:i/ ix. 
 
 AHKiN'AL OC DOM I'LDPO. I H!; i>9i'ADK(jN OF EVOLU- 
 TION. - THl; ACCLAMATION. -TUB PALACES, -TMIi 
 bINNLR. nil; KINC l64 
 
 CflAPIl:!' X. 
 
 BRAZIL. D(JM \'IA)HU. FINANCIAL HiLICY.-OHINlON OF 
 
 AGASSI/..- CONTROVtRSV WITH FN'.iLANU . , . 1S6 
 
 CHAPiHK XI. 
 GIBRALTAR. NAPLES.- F'OMPEIl. POME 200 
 
 CHAPIHK XII. 
 GIIiRALTAR. TANGII.R CMtV/.. SEVII.LE 218 
 
 CliAPIhU XIII. 
 LlSBCjN.-ANTK^UlTV.-ARClilTtCTURE. AN INTERVIEW . 239 
 
 CHAPTHR XIV. 
 
 LITERATURE. SCULPTURE.- PALACES. -COACHES.- POLI- 
 
 TIf:S 253 
 
 CHAPTHR XV. 
 LISBON. BOSTON 281 
 
 APPENDIX 307 
 
 INDEX 309
 
 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 CHAPTHR 1. 
 
 LONIX )N r* ) IJSBON. 
 
 June lyt/i. — I left New York for Lisbon, as U. S. 
 Minister to Portugal, on the 8th of June, and arrived 
 this inoniing in London, after the usual passage of 
 eight days to Southampton in the Elbe, and three 
 hours' rail to the metropolis. The sea is the same 
 from one end to the other ; hut the land varies with 
 e\ery mile, and iu'licates the character of the people 
 who inhaljit it. I'rom SouthamjUoti to London we 
 passed through a most charming country, fresh \Titli 
 June vegetation, cultivated to the highest degree 
 —a market garden from ojie city to the other. If 
 this wen; Ivngland, no one could ask for a more 
 j(jyous land. Tlie endeavor to make the island 
 a garden has not been pursued with enthusiasm and 
 the fine cultivation and thrifty people and comfortable 
 dwellings of this southern section is the exceptioti and 
 not the rule. It was a charming morning in early 
 summer when we made our journey through ICngland, 
 and were borne into the whirl of London to witness the 
 refreshing bustle and intensity of the town after the 
 idle life of the sea. To debark from our compartment, 
 
 1
 
 2 A Vi:AR IN ITil/TlIGAL 
 
 to shake hands with our friends who had accompanied 
 us across the Atlantic, to reach the hotel and find 
 ai)artnients, was the work of a minute, London was 
 very full of strangers, the Ascot and the coming exhi- 
 bition at Windsor having crowded it to overflowing. 
 While I rested after my journey, my family went to 
 Westminster Abbey, Ijound to be introduced to London 
 without delay, and determined to begin with the glory 
 of the town. They returned to our apartments radi- 
 ant with the spirit of the Abbey, eloquent over its 
 beauty, and conversant with the names of poets and 
 scholars, statesmen, heroes, and kings ])uried there. 
 There was a service which charmed the ICi)iscopal side 
 of my family, and, altogether, their visit was most 
 successful, while I was left to remember that Canon 
 Kingsley commented liis journey in America with a 
 charming lecture in .Salem on Westminster Abbey, 
 tlial we gave him a baufimt at the Ivssex Institute, 
 and that Dean Stanle;,- introduced himself to riii Ameri- 
 can audience with his admirable speech at the t\v(i 
 liundred and fiftieth ainiiversary of the landing of J(;hn 
 ICndicott at Xaumkeag. 
 
 I shall probably spend a few days here, not with the 
 hope of getting even a Ijird's-eye view of London or a 
 glimjjse into its society c^r a taste of its quality. There 
 is too nuu'h f<jr a lifetime. And, moreover, I rather 
 long to get away and betake myself to my quiet sphere 
 of duty in Lisbon, where I can take in the situation en- 
 tirely, and where there is but one attraction, I am told, 
 — the lazy luxury of climate and scenery and repose, 
 and what Whittier called so charmingly, " Old endeavor 
 and achievement, romance and song." 
 
 Amidst all the smoke and filtli of the city, I was
 
 LONDON TO LISBON. 3 
 
 Struck with the neatness of the people. Every man 
 who pretended to wear a shirt wore a clean one. 
 Clean boots, clothes, cravats were conspicuous everj'- 
 whcre. The servants, with their white collars and 
 neck-cloths and black coats — the regalia of valetdom 
 ill Kngland, — the clean table-cloths in the eating-houses, 
 the clean floors and walls, and the clean well-arranged 
 shops, bade defiance to the smoky air and the dingy, 
 cloudy, dripping sky. The well-defined orders of soci- ■ 
 ety are impressed upon you every hour. The carriage 
 with its coronet, the hackney-coach, and the street cab 
 all have their place. As a buyer, the seller always 
 treats you with respect ; as an eater at the table of 
 a hotel or restaurant, no jest of yours is recognized, no 
 attention is expected, no acknowledgment is ofTered 
 by the spruce waiters wlio stand around you. 
 
 The s])en(liiig of money in l/mdon teaches you 
 much about Ivnglish .society. It is worth nothing and 
 it is worth everything. To those who have it, its 
 temptations are powerless ; to those who have it not, 
 the smallest representation of the circulating medium 
 is perfectly satisfactory. With the traders and ])usiness 
 men it has very small capacity to express value. You 
 cannot buy anything of high quality at a reasonable 
 rate. You can devour half a sovereign in a twinkling. 
 Gold weighed against bread, necessities, luxury, and 
 pleasure sinks into insigniticance. But when it is 
 applied to the other phase of society, its character 
 changes at once. For the relief of a beggar, a penny 
 is omnipotent. You can avail yourself of the popular 
 modes of conveyance for next to nothing. Any article 
 stamped with poverty, or applied to its uses, .seems to 
 have no pecuniary value aflixed to it. In the comnioa
 
 4 A VI;aR in ['OF^TUGAL. 
 
 restaurant, beef and beer, enough for a wood-sawyer, 
 cost about fourpence — the same beer and beef, under 
 the Royal Arms, is invaluable. Tliis is all significant. 
 It would disgust a peer to wear a jerkin costing a couple 
 of shillings, wliile lie pays five pounds for a jacket no 
 better. 
 
 London presents the most extraordinary contrasts. 
 rVoni the bustle of business you can step at once into 
 the most delightful seclusion. Its parks, which you 
 come upon unexpectedly, afford rural retreats to the 
 ear stuiuied, and the foot wearied, and the eye dazzled 
 with the noise and stony hardness and constantly 
 changing crowd of the streets. The fine roads of 
 these parks afford admirable opportunity for exercise 
 to the English gentlemen and their horses. On the 
 green feed flocks of sheep to give an air c^f domestic 
 comfort to the scene. The tired citizen breathes 
 their invigorating air, and the lu.xurious traveller re- 
 poses upon the richness of the scenery. The retreats 
 of students and professional men" are quiet and ap- 
 propriately secluded in this busy, noisy city, whose 
 incessant hum, resounding through these places of re- 
 pose, adds cfTect to their subduing silence. Lincoln's 
 Inn iMelds, where are the nujseuins of John Iliuiter 
 and Sir Jolui vSloatie and the Inns of the court, give a 
 se(jue>tcred .s})ot where the talent of Jinglish ])hysicians 
 and barristers may be cultivated without disturbance 
 and their scholastic tastes may ]>e cherished. I felt as 
 if a new life was breathed into me when I rand>led 
 ]>eyon<l the noise and filth of Newgate into the refine- 
 ment of this quarter of the city. 
 
 I have spent a few hours in the House of Conunons 
 — a dull and most uniiiteiestiug sessjr)n, where I saw
 
 LONDON TO LISBON. 5 
 
 Bradlaugh, who came into the gallerj' to meet nie, and 
 who inquired after his old friends in America. Last 
 evening I had a long and most interesting conversa- 
 tion with Mr. Gladstone after a dinner given him by 
 Mr. Carnegie. I asked him how long it would be be- 
 fore a confederation would be formed in the United 
 Kingdom. In his endeavors to answer this question, 
 which I have found it ver}- difficult for any Ivnglishmau 
 to answer, he entered upon a discussion of American 
 affairs and the character of our Constitution. He ex- 
 pressed his usual admiration of our institutions and of 
 the policy on which our government is founded. The 
 idea that our civil organization was founded on an 
 accumulation of facts and popular necessities, and 
 grew out of them, had impressed itself on his mind, 
 and he seemed inclined to believe that, while the theo- 
 rists and doctrinaires were ojjposed to our federal 
 organization, the most practical man of his time, the 
 best farmer, the bravest warrior, tlie most successful 
 land-surveyor, secured the adoption of the charter of 
 our rights and privileges, and that it was Washington 
 alone who gave us our Constitution. He said he had 
 watched with great interest Mr. Brj'ce's excursion to 
 America to give a sketch of our institutions ; and when 
 I ventured to refer to De Tocqueville as having writ- 
 ten, half a century ago, the best analysis of our gov- 
 ernment and laws, he remarked that l)e Tocfjueville 
 was a genius as great as Burke in his use of language 
 and in his power of investigation. Mr. Gladstone is 
 a most agreeable talker and takes care not to monopo- 
 lize the conversation. He resembles the best t\pe of 
 our New ICngland character in form and feature and 
 cast of mind. In my youtli I knew an oM Uiiitariau
 
 6 A vi;Ar: in i-i h'Ti <;a!,. 
 
 ininislcr \vh<j ha'l 1)cvm oslnici/.cl and driven from his 
 parish in Coventry, Connecticut, on account of the 
 liberalit}- of his opinions in tlie early days of the con- 
 test between the believers in the Unity and the believers 
 in the Trinity — a sturdy old Puritan, who was a patron 
 of letters, was po(-)r, lint helped tlie bright boys of his 
 neii;hl)()rhood to get an education, had a l)road face 
 and broad shoulders, talked moderately, and was 
 named A1)iel Abbot, one of a long line of educators, 
 scholars, and pliilauthropists. An<l tliis worthv and 
 representative New ICnglander. Mv. Gladstone strongly 
 resembled. The type is a good one for a free and non- 
 conforming people, but a poor one for a conformist. 
 The ])arty at dinner was m<jst distinguished — Sir ICdwin 
 Arnold, John Morley, whointrodnced us to the gallery 
 of the House, Mr, and Mrs. f ;iad:-.loiu/, Mr, \Vilb;im 
 I'dark, Mts. Morl'-y an<l .Miss I'ljllman, .Mr. and .Mrs. 
 I.awton, Mr. and .Mrs. Koljert Mu'obi, Cen. I.loyd 
 I'>ryce, Mrs. John A. I.ogan, Mrs. Commodore Ciarri- 
 .son. and Consul-GenentI and Mrs. New. .Mr. Carnegie 
 sent his keen impulse througli tlie assembly, and his 
 sweet wife iierforme'l her part with great grace and 
 dignity. 
 
 y//;/^,'^^)///.--This morning Mr. ]',. }'. Stevens took me 
 to the House of the Rolls, in which are kept the records 
 f)f the kingdom and wliich contains documents of rare 
 value. Few persons are admitted, and it was only at 
 the request of Mr. Stevens that I .secured a permit. I 
 had a mostcharnu'ng genealogical talk with my guide, 
 and saw Domesday Book, upon which all eyes are not 
 allowed to rest. I saw the oath taken by Queen Vic- 
 toria on her coronation, a clear, beautifully written 
 sheet, witli (ptcstions and answers definitely arranged,
 
 LONDON TO LISBON. 7 
 
 among which was an oath to support the Church of 
 Knglaud, and Ireland now disestablished. Victoria's 
 signature is rough and manly, not the handwriting 
 of a fashionable young lady, but the sturdy and 
 unpretentious work of a farmer. The Rolls itself 
 is most interesting, .standing as it does near the old 
 church and but a few feet from all that remains of 
 Dryden's house, now nearly detnolished. 
 
 An invitation to attend Lady vSalisbury's reception 
 at the Foreign Ofiicc and that of Mr. Morgan to occupy 
 his box at the opera gave us good opportunities to 
 catch a rapid view of society as we flew through the 
 city. The reception was most beautiful. The great 
 staircase, the wealth of flowers, the abundance of dia- 
 monds, the multitude of dowagers, made a most distin- 
 guislied display, I,ord Salisbury is a sturdy son of 
 ]'-nglaiid, and I.ady ,S,ilisbur\ li;i'-. a most gracious alid 
 gciilk- maniKT. I dined with llu- Ilihtorical Society, a 
 body of learned gentlemen, and at the house of Mr. 
 and Mrs. Chamberlain, where we met at dinner a most 
 thoroughly American party, and where T was charmed 
 with the grace of Mrs. Cliamberlain, wlio rei>resents so 
 well the renowned beauty of old Salem. 
 
 The exhibition of the Royal Agricultural vSocicty, 
 its semi-centennial, took place at Windsor while I was 
 in London, and I witnessed with great satisfaction the 
 universal interest felt in its success by all cla.sses of peo- 
 ple ajul the high value .set ui)on it as an encouragement 
 to agriculture. They are not obliged to defend cattle- 
 shows in ICngland. The season here has been good 
 thus far. A good hay crop and large crops of potatoes, 
 grain, and roots rejoice the heart of the farmers. The 
 croj) of wheat was estimated at thirty bushels to the
 
 8 A YI;AK IN' I'! (RTIKiAL. 
 
 acre. The famiiii}; iiulusiry of ICiiKlatid is always 
 ^IUcrestillJ,^ I'rom licr Hocks aiifl herds tlie United 
 Slates breeders liave drawn their most valiialjle hUjod 
 for every purpose to which animals are devoted, and 
 tile Hnglish farmer has received for his sales of cattle 
 and horses, sheep aTid swine, a larger remuneration 
 than for any other Ijranch of his business. I learn 
 tliat the sales of pure-l)red stock during the past year, 
 lioth c)f cattle and horses, have been most satisfactory. 
 ICarly in the year the sales of vShire-horses were large, 
 th.e most important </f whicli was tlie sale of Mr. C/illey, 
 at which tlie Duke of Westminster ])aid five hundred 
 guijieas for Stanton Hero, and the Prince of Wales three 
 hundred guineas for the Pr.de of I'leet. At tlie Shire- 
 horse sale nearly /i<),fxKj w;s received at ])ublie aucti(Mi, 
 and during the slunv the private sales aniounled to 
 alKuit /:4,fxxj. I-<jr Hackneys, Suffolk^. Cleveland 
 Bays, and Clydesdales the trade has been good. Cattle 
 also .sold well. At forty-three sales of Short-horns 2,32,1^ 
 head were sold for a total of ^76,570 14.?. Cv/., or an 
 average of /'32 njs. ,v/.. each, being a large advance over 
 the prices of 18.S5, i.s,s6, 18S7, and isss. In .Scotland 
 the sales of pure-bred cattle resulted in an average of 
 ^22 155. ]Kr head being obtained for Short-horns, and 
 of/21 IS.?, for those of the Polled Angus breed. Besides 
 these a good Imsiness has been done in the other lead- 
 ing breeds, the Herefords more especially. The great- 
 est feature of tlie year, however, has been the growing 
 poi)ularity of the Irish cattle, the Kerrys and the Dex- 
 ler-Kerrys, many of which have been ])rought into 
 ICngland. 1 lerds of these small cattle liave been estab- 
 lished at Windsor and Sandriugham, an<l so great has 
 been the demand for them that the Roval Dublin ,So-
 
 LONDON TO LISBON. 9 
 
 ciety have determined to establisli a herd-V)ook of the 
 breed. Sales of sheej) have also been ver>' satisfactor>v 
 and prices for all breeds have been better than for many 
 years. In the Windsor show no less than / 150 were 
 given for three Lincoln sheep, the first-, second-, and 
 third-prize \vinners in the shearling ram class, having 
 been purchased to go to Victoria at that price. The 
 demand both from home and foreign buyers was largely 
 increased over former years, the breeders of some varie- 
 ties, such as the Hampshire Downs, being encouraged 
 to make a great increase in tlieir flocks, and to estab- 
 lish a flock register. I think tlie vShropshires still hold 
 the foremost rank among all llie sheep of ICngland. 
 
 The establisliment of a Board (»f Agriculture and 
 tlie api)oinlment of a secretary who is a member of the 
 Ministry, have j;iven a new impulse to agriculture in 
 ICngland. The connnaiid of the Oueeu to Mr. Jac»>b 
 Wilson, the honorary director of the society's shows, to 
 dine at Windsor Castle, and to receive at her hands the 
 honor of knighthood, her success in taking prizes at 
 the Birmingham and Smithflelds fat-stock shows, be- 
 sides several of the breed chatnpionshii^s. and a large 
 number of other prizes, have euccmraged the ICnglish 
 farmer to pursue with more than \isual zeal an occupa- 
 tion which has not of late years been distinguished for 
 its success. 
 
 The presence of the Queen and the Royal Family at 
 the Windsor ICxhibition was impressive, and gave great 
 eclat to the occasion. vShe drove through the grounds 
 with the Prince of Wales in most gorgeous style, fol- 
 lowed by a great body of outriders and the members of 
 the Royal Family, in stately array. The Queen looked 
 cheerful, substantial, and proud of her surrounding.s.
 
 10 A YIAK IN" l-nl.'rn.Al.. 
 
 The Prince of \\':iles is j^rowiiii; old. 'IMie whole scene 
 rei)reseMt.e<l well the solid jtower of ICnj^land. 
 
 I ha\e ie(.H-ivc<l an in\-ilalioM to the dedicalioii (»f the 
 national nionunienlal l'l>inoulli — not I'lyniouth inlCng- 
 land, l)Ul that more sacred riyin<»ntli, where the genius 
 of the ICngHsh nation found a hoi'.ie. and made that 
 nation immortal. I have felt it to he a])i)r<ipriatc forme 
 to Send the f)ll<)Win;.^^ reply frum the land of the fathers 
 and from tho>c' " sweet homes " tliey loved so well, — 
 
 \\ I'.ll II N ON l:i.AK!) llll. /.'/■''</. 
 
 " To llir Coiiniiiffi I-' I have rccei\'ed your courte- 
 ous in\'italion to atlund the celehration of the moinnnent 
 erect(.-d to the memory <tf tho>e wholande<I at IMxinouth 
 two hundied and si\t\-iiine \ears a;^o. and hrotiy.ht 
 with IIkiii thf iiriiiripl' ^ of stale and Norii'ty npoii 
 winch ihi- ,\mcii<:ni npnlilic is founiU'il. 
 
 "Were I on tlu- soil which tiny niailc s.navd ami 
 immortal, and t<) wliich I am hound hy e\ery tie 
 of Mood and jiatriotism, I should ac(\-])l the invitation 
 With j^ratitude and ea;4erness, lUil I am makint; my 
 \va\' to the land whifdi the\- left to find a home for their 
 free thoui^ht ami th.eir iiutrammellcd conscience, and 
 am traversing; the i)ath which they hravelx- pursued to 
 hii^h accomplishment and high service ; and I can only 
 express m>- thatd^s to xou for remendjcrin;^ me on this 
 occasion, and my reverence an(l admiration for the 
 work which they performed. I am bountl for their 
 native shores ; and if an\- one douljts their defiant faith 
 and courajge, let him \isit their imperial home ; if he 
 doubts tlieir resolution, let him sail their stoiniy seas ; 
 if he doubts the»r wis<lom and foresi!.;ht, let him survey 
 the em])ire which they founded, and the nationality 
 which tlu-\- inspired.
 
 I.nMx )N Ti » LI.M'.ON. 11 
 
 " Tlie story of the l'il.i;riins h;is been so often told 
 tluit it has hccoine as familiar as human speech. But 
 are we not in danger of forgetting what our history and 
 our nation wotild be without them ? They brought to 
 our shcjres as a family tradition the story of reform in 
 ]vngland, wrought out by their own ancestors, the 
 policy of a representati\-e government, the religious 
 congregation as the corner-stone of a Christian church, 
 a well-defined faith superior to theory and speculation, 
 a magistrate without a crown, a bishop without a mitre. 
 The fotnidation of their state was a churcli, which was 
 built ui)()n a luue heart ;is the rock of salvation, and re- 
 (piired no forms and ceremonies to point the wa\' to the 
 throne of (",.m1. To \k- a rili/en of this colony, whose 
 moll u mm t yu have now (••impKled, was to be a Chris- 
 tian in word and drc'd, and from the hour when the 
 compact was signed on board the J/(n'//('.".v7' until this 
 day, the spirit which has animated the American 
 jieopk- thronL;]i all ranks and orders, through all de- 
 nonrinatious and forms of fiith, has l»een guided by 
 Christian rules and devoted to a Christian purpose. 
 There n\ay be contending creeds and parties, but the 
 object is the same, and the individual is never lost in 
 the multitude, nor is jicrsonal indei>endence e\-er sur- 
 rendered to the decree of an organization. American, 
 individualism which displa\s itself eveiywhere, which 
 ab.sorbs all nationalities and r.ever emigrates, has its 
 roots in Pilgrim soil, and spreads its branches, laden 
 with the fruit of tlie tn,e of knowledge, wherever the 
 ])urest .XmeriiMii in--titnlions are found. 
 
 " IJeliive not that the Pilgrim, whether Separatist or 
 Puritan, planted this tree in doubt or gloom. If he 
 had no music «)r soii:4, he had enjoyed none in his old
 
 12 A Yr.AK IN PORTUGAL 
 
 lioDic, If he had no draiiia, llic draniatist aiul the 
 }>(>ct had no coniniandin)^ place in his native land of 
 ninl)ili(jii and conquest. If lie liad no art in tlie wilder- 
 ness, he had not known statues and paintin;^s in his 
 iniiversities and cloisters. He came forth from a severe 
 and intense people, the njost intense and severe of them 
 all. And yet, in the absence of what in our day we 
 call a-sthetics, I am unwillinj^ to believe the life of 
 those heroic people was a life of darkness and j;loom. 
 vSong and stf)ry and art indeed ilhimine human life, 
 but there is an exultation and .i triumphant joy in 
 heroic eiidc'ivor which outshine all external lij^ht, and 
 are not beclou<lcd by trial or misfortune. A hard faith 
 and a severe rule of cr)Mduct may not create a gloomy 
 life, and we know that t'iey gave the I'ilgrim a jubi- 
 lant strength and a shining victory, for which no song 
 or comedy or device of man could have inspired him. 
 lie had his hard sorrows, but his cloud had its bow and 
 its silver lining, 
 
 "Our land is full of monumental structures now. A 
 loyal people has erected them everywhere to its loyal 
 dead. The i)rosperr)us sons of self-sacrificing and de- 
 voted f ithers build libraries and churches to their mem- 
 orj' on the spots once made sacred by the family hearth- 
 stones. We immortalize those who taught and prayed 
 for universal freedom, and those who fought for it, and 
 n(nv you complete a monument to mark the spot where 
 the character of a great people was esta])lished on the 
 foundation of religion, education, and self-sacrifice." 
 
 In a few days we leave Jvngland, with all its associa- 
 tions and memories and greatness and feebleness, and 
 go on one stage more towards our destination. To go
 
 LONFjON to LISBON. 13 
 
 from Boston to T^otulou is like going from one Ameri- 
 can city to another. Tlie tastes, the manners, tlic lan- 
 guage, the traditions, are the same ; and it is into the 
 literature of Ivngland that the American looks for 
 those works of thought which have made him what he 
 is, and into the records of ICngland for those names 
 which are dear to him at home. Ivngland contemplates 
 America now with res[)ect, wonders at her growth, is 
 astonished, as Mr. Gladstone said, at her ])ersonal for- 
 tunes, is amazed at her public finance. The two 
 nations may be rivals, hut they should be friends. 
 
 Juf/c 2^lh. — We have been two da\s in Paris. The 
 journey from London was rapid and comfortable, and 
 the Channel insle.ad of being teiupesluous was lively 
 and iusi)iriting. Our rooius at Meurice's were ready 
 for us, and we entered upon Parisian life promptly. 
 An early call on Mr. Whitelaw Reid, the American 
 Minister, made an opening, and after very courteous 
 advice and invitations from him, we began to roam. 
 Paris covers a large surface, and the drives are long, 
 and we were delightfully occu})ied luitil it was time to 
 go to the Chamber of Deputies, where we listened to 
 a most furious debate on a letter which a son of a 
 senator had written in praise of Boulanger, and which 
 had been intercepted. The storm was great and ver>' 
 amusing. A I'rench orator is always demonstrative ; a 
 mad French orator is fascinating. 
 
 On vSaturday evening we went to a reception which 
 followed a dinner given by the American Minister to 
 Mrs. Levi P. Morton. The house of the Minister is 
 really a ])alace in si/.e and decoration. Miss ICames, 
 who started out from Maine and has captivated the 
 musical world, sang charmingly, accomjianied by a
 
 14 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 most admirable tenor, whose name I have forgotten if 
 I ever heard it. We met many of our Washington 
 ac(iuainlanccs, Count Lewenhaupt and the Countess, 
 Aristarchi Bey, Mr. and Mrs. Hoffman, Mr. Otis of 
 New York, Mr. and Mrs. Augustus Jay. :M. vSpuller, 
 the Minister for Foreign Affairs, eiitertained me Avith 
 a long speech about his experiences in America at 
 the time of the Yorktown celel^ration, and expressed 
 himself as delighted with our country. Yesterday 
 wc breakfasted with frieu'ls at vSt. (k-rmain. A 
 ride of forty minutes 1;y rail brought us Ic; the his- 
 toric si>ot Willi its old ])alaces and ils interesting 
 neighborli(»od. We breakfasted in a ])relly arbor, and 
 afl<Twar(ls we drove llirou;;h that beautiful woo<l for 
 wliidi St. (k-rmain is .so famf>us; and the terrace 
 from which the view (jf the vrdley of the Seine an<l on 
 to I'aris is as fine as nature and art can shape it, and 
 as historic as man has been able to make it. I/ist 
 evening we dined with Mrs, Sherwood, who chaperones 
 the beautiful daughter of Mr, C, P. Huntington, and 
 has a kind word for all Americans. The company, 
 consisting of ten persons, was most agreeable, I 
 listened long to the conversation of an elderly gentle- 
 man who was full of information on vSuez and Paiunna 
 canals, agriculture in I'rance, I'rench politics, French 
 incomes, and French manners. He is a devoted friend 
 of I5oulanger, and evidently feels that he will triumph 
 in the end ; and he informed me that the Minister of the 
 Interior had said the scenes of '93 should be enacted 
 again ratiier than have lioulajiger to rule over F'rance. 
 He expects victory for Poulanger from a combination 
 ofOrleaiiists, litmapartisls, and dissatisfied Republicans, 
 mixed in what prop(;rtion he did not inf(;rm me.
 
 LONDON TO LISBON. 15 
 
 To attend the ICxpositiou was a matter of necessity, 
 and we took an earl>' lionr for theexcnrsion. Tainiliar 
 as I am with such scenes, I w;is deeply impressed with 
 the extent and beauty of this. It was not as hroad and 
 free and open and, as it were, natural as the Centen- 
 nial ICxhibition at rhiUulelphia in 1S76, but in wealth 
 of construction I am comi)elled to think it surpasses it. 
 There are no charmin;^ hills and valleys, no great trees, 
 lU) widespread landscape, but the old ICastern nation- 
 alities have i)oured forth tlieir art and industry in 
 sin-prisin>; abmidance ; ]'hi;^land is .strong. massi\c, 
 solid, .and endurin:< in her great cNhibition of ceramics, 
 mamifacliiK --, and machinery of e\'ery description ; 
 I'lance abounds ; <\er\ ihing that can <'ondiu"e to the 
 ln:-.iiiy of life she has gat]K-r<«l lure, 'i'here is one 
 Sevres \-ase worUi CMiiiiiig to bauope to see. There arc 
 groups of statuary, graceful, gross, inspiring, and the 
 reverse ; boudoirs furnished like the garden of ICden ; 
 gigantic figures of heroes, lions, and grilTuis; brocades 
 which Wftuld have set our colonial damsels wild ; and 
 I'lecorations nujre beautilul than even theceilings of the 
 American Capit(d an- in the eye of an admiring citizen. 
 And then the laces of I'.rnssels, the beautiful work of 
 thousan<ls of weary fingers ; the gorg<.<)US glass of Aus- 
 tria an<l riungary ; the intelligent machinery of I'hig- 
 land a:i<l the I'nited vSiates ; the mounted savagery of 
 the forests of Russia ; the swarthy beauty of Arabia 
 and Persia ; the cpiaint productions of the Swiss ; the 
 agricultural machinery, and well-ordered stables, and 
 dairy arrangements, and modi'l farm-steadings, in min- 
 iature, from I'rance and C.ermany ; and gilded and 
 car\-ed furniture of Ual\- ; and textiles of Spain ; and 
 wines :uid pr'miti\e implenuiils of Portugal; and the
 
 16 A YFIAR IN rORTUGAL 
 
 mineral aiul forest wcallh of South America ; — all this 
 and more in most fascinating collection and arrangement 
 filled me with Avonder and admiration, I was really 
 introduced to luuuati ingenuity and skill, and was 
 more than ever impressed with man's devotion to beauty 
 and luxury. All philosophy and theology and social 
 sp.eculation and ])oetry and ]iolitics were driven out of 
 my head b}- the material splendor before me. Our trip 
 along the Chamj) de Mars to the KifTel Tower, for 
 .scenery and a huicli, was by no means the least inter- 
 esting experience. It is useless to try to describe this 
 tower. Tlic Work is as gr.nid as a mountain. They 
 call it a thousand feet liigh ; l)ut it seems to be five 
 tlunisand, A tall i)'>])lar-tree has not more k'''1<-'*-'» 
 M(junt Washington not a firmer base. It is the Wasli- 
 ington Monument, and the vSusciuehanna Bridge, and 
 the I'rooklyn I'ridge, and tlie vSuspeiisioJi Bridge at 
 Niagara, and the dome of St. Peter's all crowded into 
 one. We went in an elevator, a huge car lifted by 
 water machinery, to the top of the first platform, higher 
 far than Bunker Hill Monument, and had a most re- 
 freshing luncheon, a bottle of chablis, a bit of roast 
 l)eef, a salad, and bread and butter — with a view of 
 Paris before us never seen until this tower was built. 
 All the great historic l)uildings, the hill of Montmartre, 
 the great Arc de Triomphe, the gilded dome of the In- 
 vali<li,s, the towers of Xotre Dame, .stood around, and 
 the gardens and gro\-es and dwellings of Paris filled the 
 scene. Tli'.- view is most impressive, .suggestive, and in- 
 teresting. 'JMiere is so much life in I'aris, — such a bright 
 .sky, such invigorating air, such marks <;f the saint, ^;u(•h 
 footsteps of the devil, su'h pi-rfectitin oT beauty and thy 
 lx.-ast, one wcjuders, a<lmires, and is bewildered.
 
 LONDON TO LISBON. 17 
 
 For myself I have been verj' busy — not in visiting 
 old scenes and old buildings, — but I have seen many 
 interesting people, and have greatly enjoyed strolling 
 over this gay, bright, irrepressible oily. My commis- 
 sion goes far towards my enjoyment. Official position 
 is much esteemed here. We dine to-night with Mr. 
 and Mrs. Reid, and to-morrow we go to a garden-party 
 given by President Carnot at the Klysees, I am deter- 
 mined to leave on Monday for Lisbon, ^vhich I find is 
 at the end of a long and tedious journey, made by 
 express on Wednesday and Saturday, on even,' other 
 day by stages from town to town, and, if you wish, 
 once a fortnight by small steamers from IJordeaux. 
 Not a pleasant prospect. lyast evening we to()k an- 
 other long drive with Count and Countess (lalli in the 
 I5oisdelioulogneand in the suburbs of I'aris, and wound 
 up the evening with a visit to Buffalo Bill's Wild West 
 Show. iCverything trivial fits this place and j)eople 
 exactly — even where the tragic marks are the deei)cst 
 in the world. 
 
 The garden-party was quite entertaining. The 
 French have preserved enough of the royal magnifi- 
 cence, which once prevailed entirely, to give an air 
 of monarchical rule to all their public ceremonies. 
 The republic flourishes in all its power, and France 
 gets further and further away from the splendors of 
 royalty. But time alone can remove the landmarks 
 laid down by kings and a voluptuous court, and the 
 simplicity and absence of (Usplay wliich mark the 
 workings of ])o])ular government come on as slowly 
 and gradu.ally as the cla>H of spring ande.uly summer. 
 And so the gar«kn-j>aity had much eereinony, and 
 many lacqueys, and much tinsel, and a good deal of
 
 IS A YEAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 promenadinj^, and considcra!)lc formality. I met many 
 Americans there. And Colonel IJclitenstein, who rep- 
 resented President Grcvy at our Yorktowu centennial, 
 greeted us as an old friend, and escorted us through 
 the cliarming salons hung with old Gobelin tapestry. 
 
 The scene at the garden-party was enchanting. The 
 beauty ')f the Ivly.sc'es lias charmed many generations 
 of men. Nature aiid art have combined to make this 
 spot most lo\-ely and most appropriate for an assembly 
 of savans and scientists from every quarter of the 
 globe. Men gathered in gr<nii)son the lawn, according 
 to tlieir nationrdities in Juiro])e, and representatives 
 fnjm the newly found western continent. Many a 
 familiar American group welcomed me ; and tlie French 
 spirit animated and the l-Vench courtesy regulated the 
 entire assembly. President Carnot might have been 
 born in Malta. 
 
 //<'/)' ?^/.- -The journey from Paris to Pordeaux is fine 
 and varied. You start out at once into Orleans, with 
 all its I'.istoric interest, and travel over a great extent 
 of country level and almost treeless, cultivated to the 
 degree of a garden, with no waste land, no animals, 
 a])parently no people — none visible. The Chateau dc 
 Chand)orfl arrests your attention, — a specimen of archi- 
 tectural beauty seldciui surpassed, and rich in the por- 
 traits of Madame de M;iintenon, Amie of Austria, and 
 their l^rilliant associates. You pass on through gardetis 
 and towns to Tours, where you rest for an h.our and 
 get a Hood of historical memories. Peyond Tours, 
 Poictiers greets you, and Angoulcme, and you reali/e 
 that you are jKissiiig through a part of I'rance owned 
 and loved by kings aiul princes and fought for by great 
 captains. As you ai)])roach liordeaux the surface of
 
 LONDON TO LISBON. 19 
 
 the couutn' becomes more uneven, atul you are at- 
 tracted at once by the nuiltitude and extent of the 
 vineyards. \'ines phuited on thousands of acres make 
 a cheerful landscape at this season, and hold out great 
 promise of autunuial wine. Indian-corn fields also 
 attracted my admiring gaze. 
 
 In the morning we left the vinous toWu in a bright 
 sunlight and sweet air. As we went on our way every- 
 thing changed. First came miles of hard pine forests 
 planted in even rows for the pilch, each tree having a 
 wound and a cup to catch the flow of vital fluid— like 
 a sngar-m;ipl(; in \'erm()nt. Tlie soil was lliin, hut 
 cultivated everywhere for Some pur]>ose— wheal, barley, 
 pol.'iloes, grass, pines. Ivrelong ihe Pyrenees appeared, 
 and then for miles we whirled on through a scene 
 hardly e([ualled in the Alleglianies or White Moun- 
 tains. The g-eat hills like Mount Washington, the 
 deep valleys like the Glen, the rapid streams like the 
 vSaco, all fdled me with great jo.\' in nature and with 
 the tenderest memories. I-'or an hour or more the 
 .seacoast comes itito view, and on one side lie Biarritz 
 and vSau vSebastian, while on the other the moni:- 
 t:uns :ui(l hills are jiiled up in great grandeur and 
 beauty. 
 
 The 5.1UI went down ; a new moon like an eyelash 
 ai)i)eared ; my planet, the evening star, which lighted 
 me home so often last autunni, and whose glories huwe 
 followed mee\-erywhere in Washington and New York 
 and on the ocean and luTe, liung in all its glory in the 
 same western sk\', and the evening air was cool and 
 sweet. Soon we bioke out of .all Ik.is glory and trav- 
 ersc-d the hard, roi-ky hills which alxmnd in this part 
 of ,Spain,
 
 20 A VliAR IN l-ORTrCAL. 
 
 Now lhrouj;li all this long day's ride we saw even.'- 
 wherc marks of liuniau industry. No acres available 
 were lying idle. All that could be reached were well 
 cuUivaled. I saw no ])eople — only a few toiling in the 
 field — men and women hoeing and making hay. I 
 .saw very few horses — only one small drove on their way 
 to market, and another at pasture. I saw only one 
 jileasure-carriage during the day, on the fine roads. 
 Mules and well-mated fawn-colored oxen, cultivating 
 the corn and skilfully avoiding the rows, were doing 
 the fruniwork. I saw but few homes of the ])eo])le. 
 They toikfl uj) to the latest twilight, and then collected 
 into little gn;ups to go I knew not whither. A few 
 flocks of .sheep gathered around their shepherds and 
 lay down for the night. When I passed on they stood 
 looking at them — the shepherds at the sheei>, — and for 
 aught I know they are there still. There was no 
 dwelling near. The nudes were tethered by the road- 
 side and the toil-worn oxen made their beds in the tall 
 grass. No walls or fences dixided the fields. The 
 grazing animals .seemed to recognize the boundaries of 
 the various plots of grain and grass by instinct, and 
 none overstep])ed the limits. In all this one got no idea 
 of home, or school, or association, or social culture, or 
 civil right. The level for men and animals and in- 
 dustry was uniform. The only mills I saw were 
 windmills and two or thrre ])aper-mills, and the ra])id 
 streams were chiefly devoted to women washing 
 clothes. 
 
 When we U-fl T'»ordeaux, we intended to stop a night 
 in ]'>urgos and take a train the next morning for Ma- 
 drid, according to instructions given lis in Paris. But I 
 was misled and I made up my mind to gain a day and
 
 LONIJON TO LISBON. 21 
 
 see Burgos, with its great cathedral and its historic 
 associations. When I left Bordeaux I went away from 
 a busy Ainerican-looking town, which was once famous 
 for its American commerce, its maritime business, and 
 its historical importance, whose streets and mole had 
 been trodden for ages by a most industrious and hardy 
 people, and whose name is identified with ancient and 
 modern enter|^rise. When I arrived at Burgos I found 
 myself in an interesting, quaint, venerable town, whose 
 antiquities occupied all my attention, whose enterprise 
 was small and secondary, and which is distingin'shed 
 for the marks of the Cid and Charles tlie V,, and all 
 tlie Don Fcrnandos, and with a great gateway erected 
 in honor of Charles the V. ; and tlie famous cathedral. 
 
 Burgos was long the capital of Castile and Leon, 
 and is a fine .specimen of a genuine Castilian city. It 
 was founded in 8S4, and has passed through the vari- 
 ous fortunes of war so well known to all v^panish 
 towns. When the kings of Castile removed tlieir court 
 from Burgos, they destroyed the S(.)urces of its pros- 
 perity. During the Peninsular wars it was with its 
 strong fortifications the obstacle to the passage of Wel- 
 lington out of vSpain, and .so firmly was it held that, 
 after five or six assaults, the iCnglish were obliged to 
 retire to Madrid, while the fortifications were destroyed 
 and the i)ath left open. Since that day Burgos has 
 been idle. 
 
 Tlie Gothic Cathedral is the main ol)ject of interest 
 in this re[)resentative {spanish town. It was royally 
 founded by St. Ferdinand in honor of his marriage 
 with Donna Beatrix in 1221 ; and the reigning sovereign 
 became one of the canons of the chapter from which 
 Pope Ali'xander VI. sprang. The very .soil on which it
 
 22 A YliAR IN I'()FTU(]AL 
 
 Stands is steeped in ecclesiastical renown. It seems to 
 be the most sacred spot on earth— and the catliedral 
 itself an object worthy of occupying the place. True 
 the approach to this wonderful piece of architecture is 
 most humble, and the great doorway opens from a 
 court-yard surrounded with dingy and misshapen 
 dwellings. I'.tit out from this low level s])rings a 
 collection of graceful spires, which draw you away 
 from c.-iilh ruid direct your mind to the heaven of 
 saints and the great while throne. While you con- 
 template this ravishing .accumulation, the heavy curtain 
 is swung away from tlie door and y(»u enter. The 
 scene before you is overpowering. Tiie lofty arches 
 and the great na\e opi)iess you with their grruuleur. 
 The retable of the high altar, in the centre of which is 
 a silver image of the Virgin, is very fine, and the rest 
 of the altar is occupied by statues representing scenes 
 from the life of the Virgin, of apostles and saints. At 
 the side of the altar are tombs of three Infantes of Cas- 
 tile, \vho wete buried there in the i^lh century. 
 Impressed witli the sacredness of this monumental 
 structure, you wander from chapel to chapel, until 
 you become enamom-ed of tliat genius and religious 
 enthusiasm wliich f.-und expression in such sublime 
 work. It is a picture of ancient repose — rejjresenting 
 the fervor and /.eal of past centuries without a boml to 
 bitid it to the ])resent. The mind endeavors to i)eople 
 it with active life, with l;in;!;s and jjriests and all the 
 bright display which belonged to the Church in its 
 prime and ])ower. The arabescpies and monsters repre- 
 sent the hideous side of life, and images of .saints and 
 angels all that is holy and pure. Recumbent eOlgies 
 of the founders have lain silent there f(;r centuries and
 
 LONDON T(^ LIS150N. 23 
 
 fill you \vitli awe and reverence. To be led from 
 clicipcl to chapel, introduced l)y turns to the work of 
 Nicodeiuus, and the Virgin and child by vSebastian del 
 Pionibo, and to the splendid tomb of the great Bishop 
 Alonso dc Carthagena, and to the gorgeous Chapel of 
 the Condestablc with its great wealth of art and deco- 
 ration, is like being l)orne from one sacred presence 
 to anothcT, luilil tlic mind grows weary witli tlie 
 contemplation of so much bcanty. The cloisters are 
 fiiually fine and imposing. Over the doorway leading 
 into the Old Sacristy is carved the Descent from the 
 Cross; and in the ante-r<»<)m of the Chai>ter House 
 is preserved VA Cofre del Cid, a battered iron-bound 
 chest, attached to the wall liigh above the floor, in 
 which the Cid stored the stones which he pledged to 
 the Jews for a loan to carry on his wars, lie pledged 
 his victories also with the contents of the chest, and 
 returned victorious to redeem his pledge. 
 
 When you leave this lofty momnnent to man's 
 devotion and religions zeal, you step forth into a dis- 
 mal accunmlation of ordinary city life, lUirgos is old 
 and sipialid. Ihit within those holy walls are legends 
 and tales of .sad realities an<l tragic adventures which 
 give inexpressible charm to the scene. The beautihil 
 door of the cloister, the finest in the world next to the 
 gates of the P.aptistery at Tlorence, arrests you, and 
 yon stand in nnite admiration before it. Tlie choir, 
 the stairs, tlie doors, the iron bars, and al)ove the 
 cathe(hal doorways images of saints carved in stone, 
 all cliallen^e you to ]xuise and admire their grace and 
 beauty. The tales wliich are told you of the faith and 
 love and dev(;tion manifested there — of the Christ 
 which l)lee<ls, of tlie king whose n^mantic life is con-
 
 2t A VliAR IN rOKTUGAL. 
 
 ' nc-clcdwilhlliis K^i-'iit calhclral— hind you as bj-a spell 
 to the spot. And you i;o forth into the dccayinj; city 
 aroinid ytni i)Lrplexed hy tlic niystiTics of the Roman 
 Catliolic Church, to whose ^lory all wealth and power 
 and K^-nius once dedicated themselves, an<l whicli now 
 turns back witli pride to its ancient j^raudeur. 
 
 Xo cathedral in all Cliristendom sinpasses in heaiity 
 tliis at JhiriV'S. l''rom the small s'[n;ire in hont, one 
 c.'ui coiiknij.lile :lie laeade aJM.ve which rise airy 
 si)ires pointin- in i;reat inun))ers hi;<h above the roof 
 like tall and tapen'jij; i)ines in the forest. The farade 
 is ornamented willi a multitude of statues of princes, 
 angels, and martyrs, so perfect in size and shape that 
 they deceive you with ihe thought that they are liv- 
 ing guardiatis of the terjiple. Not a line of all these 
 spires disturbs your sense of harmony. The group is as 
 uniform, beautiful, and inspiring, as the work of man 
 can be to the soul of him who contemplates it. As in 
 viewing a lofty mountain man is fdled with faith and 
 aspiration, so, as the eye wanders over this sublime 
 .structure, he warms toward those who have labored to 
 bring to earth the beauty of the .starry heavens. This 
 great work, which belongs to tlie times of the Renais- 
 sance, v.a:; built wlien devotion to art and architecture 
 had reached the highest point. Reh'":ons fiith found 
 cxi)r(ssion in most (•x<jtii:,il(: forms : and so as you 
 stand beneath the cupola of this building you behold 
 on ev<.Ty side, above and below, a bewildering mass of 
 coluimis and tracery .and images, each one of which 
 is so delicately wrought that it seems to exi)ress all 
 th.at sense of be;uity which language would fail to 
 CfMivey, Turn to either hand an<l your eye rests 
 upon a gorgeous chapel dedicated to a prince, or a
 
 LONDON TO LISBON. 25 
 
 bishop, or a kitig, whose effigies he in the centre of 
 all the magnificence, guarded hy an army of atigels 
 and saints so decorated and clad that at a signal 
 the room might he filled with life. To the art of tliis 
 structure it is said that Leonardo da Vinci, Michael 
 Angelo, and Andrea del vSarto contrihuted each his 
 .share ; and the Roman CathoHe Church can turn to it 
 as the ctilmination of its architectural power. • 
 
 y lily <y>lh. — We reached Madrid early in the uioruing 
 of July 4th, and i)roceeded at once to get a view of 
 the town. We began by exploring carefully the 
 great nmseum where the pictures of Murillo, Velas- 
 quez, Titian, Tintoretto, Poussin, Rubens, and a 
 jiumerous crowd are collected. Murillo is as sweet 
 and spiritual as ever, Velasquez as royal and vexa- 
 tious, Titian as voluptuous, Rubens as red, Poussin as 
 gloomy, Tintoretto as brilliant and commonplace. 
 Among them all stands Murillo pre-eminent. 
 
 A journey in the night-time on a Spanish train from 
 Burgos to Madrid is dismal and dreary, — spectral in 
 the darkness. The surface of the earth and the forms 
 of animal life were bad enough before we reached 
 Ikirgos, but when morning dawned and revealed the 
 landsca[)e, the sight which met our eyes was rude and 
 ])icturesque. Dawn broke upon a surface of mountains 
 and valle>s literally covered willi boulders lar,i;e and 
 small, fioni the si/.e of a cocoa-nut to the size of a 
 cathedral. They stood not :done but in groups, and 
 lay as th.ickly along the land as the dead lay at Water- 
 loo ajid dettysburg ; and so on for miles. The scene 
 was defiant and startling. A scanty herbage sprang 
 up among the rocks. No crops ajjpeared. except here 
 and there at long intervals a sickly patch of wheat or
 
 26 A VHAR IX TOF^TrGAL 
 
 lentils. I lay in my 1)crUi watching' the i!icren=;ing 
 sunlight wIr-ii, just as tlie ^hjom dimiiiishcd aiul the 
 cartli sixiii-.d u jililc more liospitahle, a hcatilifiil 
 viM'-.ii <,f a iMiildin;^ (am..- into view with a doiiu; of iiii- 
 j);ir;dl<-l<-d h'/.iiity and h'n<s oC windows flashin;,^ in the 
 finidi)',ht h'l.<.; lon;^ row. <.f hiillinnls. It was the I'lseo- 
 lial .sliinin;: in the desolation. Why it wa?4 IIkiv no 
 '"•"> '""''1 <'1I, rhilip II. sp'iil fiKcL-n yi-ars in 
 watchinj^^ its cojisti uctioii (Voiii a rocky seat on a 
 ncl;^dd)(ninj< hillside; an«l thtru it stands as beaulifnl 
 witliout and as gloomy wit])in as his dismal soid could 
 Jiial.e it. It was a realization of the Methodist hvnin 
 which, in dcvrihin^r heaven, says with reli;;ious fervor 
 an*! pious /e:d ; 
 
 " Tho'-i- KliU'Tiii;^ lo-.vcrs the stars oulsliiiie-." 
 
 I had no idea the famous structure was so far away 
 from Madrid ; and T supjwse if Philip had ima:^dned a 
 railroad would ever have shortcne<l the distance, he 
 would have taken his seat and laid the foundatioiis of 
 his palace farther on among the stony hills of Spain, 
 beyond the reach of l<K-oniotives and wagondils, the 
 detestable iCtiropean name for a detestable thing, which 
 we j)ossess with all its crjuiff^'ts anrl luxuries and 
 cleaidiness and call a sh eping-car in America. 
 
 We spent the I'ourth of July with Minister Palmer, 
 who with Mrs. Palmer and the attaches of his Lega- 
 tion and ourselves sat down U) a national dinner. We 
 drank to tlie j)rosperity of the Repul)lic ; and after liav- 
 ing explored a city like tliis the Repiddic seemed 
 resplendent. It seems to me that nothing but ecclesi- 
 astical necessity and personal ambition ojuld have 
 located Madrid wlure it is. It is the centre of the
 
 LONDON TO LISnciN. 27 
 
 mo?t miserable ])art (jf vSpaiu and has been jiiaiiitaiiied 
 by force ever since it was fmimUd, 
 
 At eleven o'clock at tiij;lit we left for Lisbon. Of 
 course I saw nolhin^^ niilil morning dawned, and then 
 we were rollin;.^ tliKnij'Ji a poor baircn country such as 
 we .^aw on our apitroacli to the capital (»f S]>ain, Ah 
 we went on, liowrvcr, ni;ilt(TH inipiovcd, and from llie 
 sandy soil iin<l thin crops of that part (»f the country, 
 we j.;radually ran into a belter region which increased 
 in beauty when we entered l*ortui;al. The ^rain fields 
 were somewhat luxuriant. The cork trees were beinj; 
 stripped of their crop of baik, and stood arouiul in 
 flcsh-cfjlfjred costume or in <liii^\v k-i''"'<^""1'^. covering 
 hundreds of acres in most picturesque nuuuier, like 
 sturdy oaks. Tlie fences were };reat rows of century- 
 phmts rejoicing in a genial climate. The houses were 
 prim and white. I)r(j\es of horses fed on the pastures, 
 and herds (;f cows reminded me of tlie Pickman farm 
 and the town pastures of Salem. At last the Tagus 
 came into view and enlivened the landscape with its 
 broad yellow current, bearing on its bosom a scattered 
 fleet of boats with tall lateen saiK. On its b.uiks were 
 a few lumber establishments, and on its low borders 
 salt-])ans were doing the best they could to convert 
 their salt-water into a merchantable prodnct. Oardens 
 and vineyards nuiltiplied as we approached I,isbon, 
 and I looked with delight on the evidences of horticul- 
 ture under favorable circumstances. We reaihed our 
 destination at three o'clock, .and were met at thest.ition 
 by Mr. Wilbor, the \'ice Con-ul who attended us to the 
 II(jtel 15ragan/.a, and enlightened me about the people 
 and m\' predecessor. I'rom our windows we could 
 Overlo(»k the broad river widening into a bay direclty
 
 28 A YHAR IN POFrrUGAI.. 
 
 l)cforc us. The far (jfT opposite shore is beautiful, and 
 the while villages alojig the remote banks are most at- 
 tractive and sug5.;eslive. 
 
 Lisbon is an interesting town — the Portuguese are an 
 interesting peopk-, Tlity appear well, are quiet and re- 
 jKtsefnl and calm tni<ier ordinary cirntmslMn'.es, 'I'liey 
 neither <!rink to ex< ess nor fight. Their houses are in 
 good order, their railway stations are well-built, neat, 
 and convenient, their fieltls are well cared for, so far as 
 the simplest implements of husbandry will allow, and 
 their streets and highways arc well-built and clean. 
 They have an encouraging air of slender thrift. There 
 are not many new iMiildings in Lisbon, but there are at- 
 tractive old ones — convents, monasteries, palaces, and 
 churches. 
 
 The Legation, as it is called, is a suite of old-fash- 
 ioned r<K;ms with old furniture and marks of old diplo- 
 macy, relics of Oeneral Humphries and Joim Pickering, 
 in the e.irly times, and of devotid citizens later on. 
 There is an air of comfort alxmt lliem which is encour- 
 aging. Tlie ])lace is uni'iue. L<»ndf>n is grand and 
 massive ; I'aris is glittering and active ; Madrid is, with 
 the e.xccj)lioj) of its great gall'-ries, hard and cold, and 
 as imjieiious as a cavalier or a don. Put Portugal is 
 tile (ondensation of luxurious (piiet, Lisbon with its 
 sleep hilly streets, its mouldy grandeur, its calm old 
 age, is the i)lace in all the wt^rld to which one can retire 
 with assurance of finding rest, even among mild i)ro- 
 tests and ])opular feeling. It is one extreme of ctdli- 
 vated ci\-ili/.alion — London struxling at the other. It has 
 the resi)ectabilily of old age. Put we abandoned all this 
 and took up our residence at Cinlra, that famous abode 
 of heroes and conspirators and poets and diplomatists.
 
 CHAPTHR II. 
 
 CINTUA AND MAFRA, 
 
 Too much caiuiot be said of the beauty of this re* 
 nowiied spot. Its striking loveliness consists of a 
 section of deep ravines, lofty heij^hts, bare and rocky 
 suitiniils, luxuriant gardens whose foliage vies with the 
 tropics, a lofty Moorish palace, whose twin turrets are 
 the chimneys of the kitchen ; winding narrow streets 
 half the width of the road on the rocky promontories 
 of New ICngland, little streams trickling down the 
 rocks into dark grottos, great towering i)ines, im- 
 p(>sing palms, a confused heap of rugged and magnifi- 
 cent nature; beyond which, stretching towards the 
 invisible sea, is a vast i>lain of variegated 1)eauty, green 
 ])astures, yellow grain fields, groui)S of trees, and those 
 
 deli^'.htlhl laiiduKirks to a Yiiiikcc eyi meandeiing 
 
 stone walls. I am only surprisi-d th;it more IravelUrs 
 do not go to Cintni. We secured (garters at the I.aw- 
 retux' Hotel, a comfortable hostelry, which has shel- 
 tered among other distinguished guests Lord IJyron 
 and Lord Lytlon, Lady iManklin, and many of my pre- 
 decessors. 
 
 Yesterday I walked to Pena. Pena is one of Ihose 
 structures which the " old people " of Portugal were so 
 fond of erecting on every crag and hilltop, always with 
 a religious significance. It was originally a convent,
 
 3o A YiiAK IN IX^KTIIGAL. 
 
 built by Dom Manuel, for the Jeruiiyinitcs of IJelem, 
 and was a watch-lower for this monarch, from which lie 
 looked out day by day and hour after hour to see \'asco 
 de Gama return from his voyai^e of discovery round 
 the Cape of G<jod Hope in 1497. When the convents 
 were suppressed it was i)urchased by a jirivate gentle- 
 man, who soon s(/id it to the laic king 1). Fernando, 
 who bequeathed it to the Coiuitess ]'*,dla, from whom it 
 has been recovered by the present king. It is perched 
 ui)nn a peak a thonsan;! feet or more above the plain, 
 and coiinnands a vast view of the sea and the mouth of 
 the Tagus, the lines of Torres Vedras, the great con- 
 vent of Mafra, and a curious landscape of wild and cul- 
 tivated hill and valley. Around it stands a collection 
 of stony peaks crowned v. ith boulder.s, which it would 
 .seem as if Agassiz' tra\elling glaciers could not move. 
 I'rom the towers of the caslle the ravines seem to be of 
 unfathomable (le[)th. The surrounding hills are all 
 below yoti, so high is the castle, and their .savage rocky 
 asi)ect, starting up as they do out of the luxuriant 
 loliage of the valleys, is most impressive. On a jieak 
 not far off stands the ruin of a Moorish castle a tluni- 
 sand years old, an inaccessible fortress, wIkjsl- occu- 
 pants were starved out v.hen Christianity secured its 
 triumi)h in P<M-tugal. There they staJid, tlu^ one in its 
 natural beauty looking over U]>on the desolate ruin of 
 the other. a!id both repnsentiiig the folly of ambition 
 and (•on'pK■^ll. I'eiia is full of choiic bits of architec- 
 ture, fine CJothic arches, a ])ictinxs(iue entrance with a 
 drawbridge, a ch.'irming little chapel, and frescos and 
 carvings iinuunerable. Its scpiare atid Moorish towers 
 are e.Kceedingly beautif'vil, and the wall around its 
 bastions .startling and confusing. The gardens are
 
 CINTRA AM) MArKA. 31 
 
 filled with tropical jilaiits, sliru1)S, aiul trees, and the 
 surrounding forests are grand and luxuriant. 
 
 This structure represents Portugal almost as well as 
 any oi;)ject you will see here, and what it does not rep- 
 resent itself, it will hring before \-ou in the wide range 
 of the horizon about it. Portugal is more remarkable for 
 its extravagances than any other spot on earth. If you 
 want to learn the power of an eartlKpiake you can 
 find it here as nowhere else. If you would study 
 the .savagery of war, read the bloody tale which 
 begins with Gothic invasions and Moorish txranny 
 and cruellN' and Caslilian nuinlers and Spanish 
 tortures, and continues through the Peninsular wars 
 and tlie contest for the succession. If you would know 
 the horrors of a plague, read the ravages of the \elhnv 
 fever in Lisl)on. If \-ou desire to know how fir human 
 cruelty can go, learn the stor>- of Inez de Castro, 
 and the tale of I). .M^on■^o VI., and the fite of Beatrice 
 and the Moor, the suriender of I'rraca, and that long 
 list of tortures the work of personal revenge and of 
 religious persecutions. If you would see the extra\-a- 
 gance of religious dexotees and im])eri;d usiupers and 
 robbers and land-grabbers, travel from town to town, 
 and count the churches and castles and convents from 
 Mafra, o\-erlooking the mouth of the Tagns, to the con- 
 fiiK.-s of the kini'.doin, and v/oniU'i' at the reckless waste 
 of tre;is»ue and toil. If yon wi^li to ^ee tlie ])erfection 
 of the stony deposits of the ice-bound period of tlie 
 world, \i^it the enlii'e Ibeiian ixiiinsnla from the Pyr- 
 enees to the Straits of ( jibraltar, and yon will find 
 boulderi in nature in all it-> i>ossible gi.indeur. 
 
 A favorite dri\e from Cintra brings you to Mafra, a 
 monstrous architectural pile long since deserted,
 
 32 . A VtiAR IN roKTrGAL 
 
 .standing' in solitary Krajulcur l)y llic sea, a iiionuinciit 
 ofexlravaj^ancc and imperial folly, re]i<;iousc-iillmsiasni 
 and weak anibilioii. Jt takes its name frojn a small 
 villaKe in which stands this Palace, Monastery, and 
 Ikisilica. a hn-e l^nihlinj^^ erected in 17 17 by D.Jose V., 
 in j^ratitudeto God f-jr the birth of a son, and in fnlfil- 
 nient of a vow he had made that whenever the son was 
 1)orn he wonld erect a magnificent monastery on the 
 site of the poorest Priory in the kingdom. And this 
 Priory was at Mafni— a hnt in which dwelt twelve 
 Arabidos, the ])ooreht order in Portngal. In 1717 was 
 the foundation laid, this ceremony alone costing 200,- 
 cx>) cnnvns. A daily force of i4.j(x:> workmen was em- 
 ployed thirteen years in the construction ; and duriTi<'- 
 the entne tune 45. (<x:) men were engaged in the work. 
 The edifice cost i<;,<xx).<k>) cr :)wns, and during f)neday 
 of the eight occupied in the consecration, the king 
 dined ').<.» m> i)ersoiis. '1'Ir- length of the wall running 
 north and s<Mith is 1.150 fi-d. 'iMirre are xr,6 rooms 
 and p„2( X >(](>■ )V^. 'riu- roof is so bmad th.it 10, (xk) nieii 
 can be reviewed upon il, nu'l it is so j.olid that a great 
 stone turret, weighing at least a ton and a half, falling 
 from the tower to the roof, a hinidred and fifty feet, 
 made no imj)re>sion whatever on the surface. There 
 are palaces for the king and the queen, a magnificent 
 audience chand)er, a church of great l)eanty, ])arracks 
 for the .soldiers, and a library y^y f(,(.-t in len-th con- 
 taining y\C)Cx) volumes, the oldest of which are illu- 
 nu'nated nn"ssals of 1450. The chimes of bells are won- 
 derful — sweet in tone, impressi\-e in i)ower. I'or a 
 hundred and .seventy years their great machinery has 
 worked, and is as perfect now as it was the day it was 
 erected. There are two sets of bells, each .set weigh-
 
 CINTRA AND MAFRA. 33 
 
 ing two hundred tons, costing one million crowns 
 apiece, and doubled by the extravagant king, when 
 he was reminded that the vast sum of one million 
 crowns would be required to pay for one. This im- 
 mense building stands on a wide level spot in the 
 midst of a small cluster of houses as remarkable for 
 their humility as the great monastery is for its gloomy 
 greatness. The great front wall, blackened as all old 
 buildings in Kurope are. is an accumulation of lofty 
 columns, high massive towers, deep niches ornamented 
 by statues, and all the wealth which architectural 
 ingenuity could pile up in one mouulainous structure. 
 The ample front portal opens into a hall, whose walls 
 are adorned with colossal statues of saints and apostles, 
 and it leads into a church of lofty proportions, rich 
 decorations, great arches, and beautiful chapels. From 
 this imposing edifice you pass on through innumerable 
 rcjoms, some adorned with fimly frescoed ceilings, 
 some as white and still and empty as a snow-cave in 
 the arctic, — all opening into each other and making a 
 vista like a great avenue. Tlie vast building ruiniing 
 back from this splendid front, with its church and 
 towers and belfries and statues, is no more impressive 
 than the walls of a huge cotton-mill. Its exterior is 
 of a dull yellowish-brown color, its interior contains 
 the hospital with its many stalls, the monastery with 
 its cells for the monks, the great dining-room with its 
 long, heavy tables, and the superb kitchen. You are 
 compelled to admire the well-made Brazil-wood doors, 
 and to wonder at the simple decaying window-shutters. 
 And you watider about and ponder and wait for a 
 group of occupants in vain, and try to i)eople all the 
 solitudes with royal assemblies and devotees and sol- 
 3
 
 34 A VliAR IN rnWTI'fjAL 
 
 dicrs; and you listen for e-chocs of the old revelry 
 and chants and responses. Ihit it is all deserted and 
 still and useless — waiting; for ti .ic to do its work, 
 Mafra in full blast must have been a scene of military 
 and ecclesiastical glory, such as the world has seldom 
 seen. Now the desolation and repose are awful. 
 
 When this monastery was built at Mafra the re- 
 sources of Portugal were great, — great for her rulers 
 and nobles, — great for a privileged few, and plentiful 
 enough as they now are for the mass of the people. 
 Regardless of the wants of his subjects, indiilerent to 
 the necessities <<f his great emi)ire, the king compelled 
 all i^eople and all industries covered b>' the Portuguese 
 flag to pay tribute to this reckless and extravagant 
 ccjuceit. And ntnv all industries and ])eople have 
 willidrawn from its presence and left it standing aK)ne. 
 Tiie power of him who built it is gone. The signifi- 
 cance of the building has passed away. The object 
 for which it was erected is forgotten, and e\-en if 
 remembered, is considered a ])iece of weakness and 
 folly. And yet it rejiresejits wliat was once the civil 
 and ecclesiastical power of Portugal, the former of 
 which is in decay, and the latter of which its great 
 minister abolished. 
 
 We dro\-e o\er a wide region of dry hills and valleys 
 occu])ied by thin wheat-fields and stunted \'ine>ards, 
 wheie a povert\-stricken ])eoi)le reaped the meagre 
 grain and waited for the small wine crop. There was 
 no lu.xuriance, all was a low level of civilization, 
 without sc-hoolhouse so far as I could disco\-er, and 
 surely without a town-hall or a meetingdiouse. I 
 could not help contrasting this scene of poor agricul- 
 ture and dead society with the fertile fields and pleas-
 
 CINTRA AND MAFRA. 35 
 
 atit homes and pr<jtty villages where a free and grateful 
 pecjple erect monuinental structures for their heroes ; a 
 living and active civilization engaged in paying tribute 
 to those who have made life strong and aspiring. But 
 I abandoned contrast and comparison early, because 
 I am inclined to think that every form of civilization 
 has its purpose, and that the institutions established 
 by one people are as much entitled to respectful con- 
 templation as those established by another. So much 
 for Mafra, its building and its lesson. 
 
 .lifoitsf js(. — We have had our first court reception — ■ 
 not my presentation, which is still delayed on accoimt 
 of the illness of the King ; but a party given in honor 
 t)f the birthday of Dom AfTonso Ilenriipies. The re- 
 i-eplion was given at Cinlra in the royal palace, where 
 the family spend two or three montlis in midsununer. 
 
 The palace is a most interesting and homely old 
 building, — :in irregular pile surrounding a large court- 
 yard, and esi>ecially conspicuous for its tall conical 
 chimne.NS and its fragmentary archileelure. It was the 
 Alhambra of the Moorish kings and passed from them 
 into the possession of the Christian Portuguese mon- 
 archs. The building was completed l)y Dom Manuel 
 about A.i). 1500, and was his residence when he watched 
 from Pena for the retmn of Vasco de C.ama from his 
 gieat voyage of (lisco\'ery. It is famous for many his- 
 torical events, and is a curious mixture- ol Christian 
 and Moorish architecture. 
 
 The reception was held in the great salon, a large 
 and finel>- decorated room about fifty feet long by 
 thirty feet wide, with a beautifid frescoed ceiling and 
 with modern doors, which contrast curiously with the 
 ancient type of the walls. We entered this room
 
 30 A y\lAU IN' VC)\'j\]r,M, 
 
 llirou;^'li a narrow i)assa},'c beUvccii two pillars where 
 gmsts who ex])t:c-tc(l tf) Ik- j)rcscMitc(l to the Kin^ giith- 
 crcd. I was introduced liy vSenhor ]{arros Gomes, the 
 Minister for Foreign AfTairs, to liis Majesty, who sat 
 during the reception and ofiered me a chair by his 
 side. lie is a gentleman of taste and talent and culture, 
 speaks well many languages, is a good nuisician, a first- 
 rate ICnglish scholar, and a judicitnis statesman. My 
 conversation with him was interesting, and we discussed 
 the affairs of his kingdom with allusions to the litera- 
 ture of the United »States. He very civilly excused his 
 inability to receive me formally on account of his ill- 
 health, and assured niu thnt the informal interview we 
 were then having would he suflficient in establish my 
 official relations with Viis govennnent, while my pre- 
 sentation would come hereafter. I was ])resente(l to 
 the Oueen, M;iria I'ia, a stylish and anxious wom.an 
 willi a pomp of j;oldrii l):iif, tin- danejil. r df Vidor 
 J",manuel ; and to the Cniwii l'riii<c;,s, the wile of Doni 
 Carlos, Marie Amelie d'Orleans, daughter of the Conite 
 <le Paris. The present;iti(jn of Mrs. Loring to the 
 Queen was niade by Lady Pelre, wife of the I'lHtish 
 Minister, who was the dean of the dii)lomatic corps, 
 and to tlie King by vSeidior iJarrtyS Gomes. I left her 
 conversing with his Majesty while I pursued my sub- 
 stantial ICnglish way among "all Ivnglish-speaking 
 people " whom I chanced to nieet. 
 
 It was not a lively reception, inasmuch as the ladies 
 .sat in a solid and impenetrable ma.-^s along the side of 
 the rof)ni op])osite the royal family, while the gentlemen 
 concentrated themselves wherever they could find room 
 in all the dignity of black coats and, in .some cases, of 
 knee-breeches, I was agreeably impressed by the
 
 CINTKA ANI) MAI'KA. 37 
 
 Crown Prince, Doiu Carlos, llic Duke of IJraganza, the 
 Infanta, who was niakiu}; himself generally attentive, ' 
 and with whom I had an interesting talk about lands 
 and horses ; and also by the Prime Minister, Senhor de 
 Castro, who told Mrs. Loring he had never been out 
 of Portugal, and had never had a fire in his nMjin ; by 
 the Oueen's Chamberlain, the Duke of I.oule, Master 
 of the Ilorse; by Duke Albu(iuenjUe ; by the Russian, 
 Swedish, Dutch, Austrian. Ihilish. and Brazilian min- 
 isters ; by the vSpanish Sccretar>', Polo de Barnaby ; 
 by Marchesa de iMUichal, Lady-in-waiting to the Queen ; 
 aud by Dona Kugcnie Xitza, Maid of Honor, a very 
 pretty person descended from \'asco de (lama. The 
 music was given by a fine baud, which was stationed in 
 a M(;orish court and which discoursed the peculiarly 
 graceful and livel>' sti.iius for which I'orltiguese airs are 
 distinguished. The su])pei was in the famous dining- 
 room whose ceiling is adoiiied with numerous niag])ii'S, 
 bi'aring in their bc.iks the mott(» " I'or l!em," painted 
 there, by the order of iKiin John !., .is a rebuke to the 
 gossips <jf the court, who revelled in the fact that the 
 Queen caught him kissing f)ne of her maids of honor ; 
 and the supper consisted of Consonnne de perdrix, 
 ImIcIs de veau ;\ la Portuguese, Uoasl beef roli h la 
 Chateaubriand, Dindon brochees a la Peiiipieux, Jani- 
 bon Westphalian, Pates de foi.K gras, vSandwiches h. la 
 Romaine, Ices, and dr\- Champagne. The tal)le was 
 handsomely decorated, and the inunerous waiters were 
 in red and yellow livery. Dining the supper the King 
 aud Queen remained in the sdon, the I'rincess Amelie 
 h.iving retired at an early liour. All of which items I 
 do most fiithfully record. 
 
 Ilildre-lh .accompanied us to the reception and was
 
 38 A YHAK IN Vf>\nvr,M. 
 
 imich iiiiprcsso'l hy the diK'nily of tliu f^ccasioii. He 
 was i»resci)ti(l lo tlu- Kiii;^ and OiK-rn, and to the 
 Princess Koyal, \\]\<> were most kind and };raei<nis to 
 liitu. 
 
 'I'lie tntiantv lo this seen*.' was (jnik- imposing;. On 
 each si<le of the hroad staircase leading from the court- 
 yard of tlie I'alace to tlie interior stood lorch-bearers in 
 Hvery, red and yellow, wlio lighted the way to tiie not 
 very ini])Osing hall, an<l from which yon ascended hy a 
 winding atid narrow staircase of niarhlc, without han- 
 ister or rail, into the anteroom <»f the salon. 
 
 We had the iileasiu'e yesterday of paying oiu' respects 
 totheCiown I'rinceand hi>'h nining I'lincess. of whom 
 I have already written We were tnet at the gate of the 
 jiretty villa in whiel; they reside by a most sltu'dy gate- 
 keeper who t(tok our ( ar<is, and soon nluru'd, indicat- 
 ing' that we (dnl<l enter. We were nut also al the door 
 of the villa. l»y the Condessa de Sahtigosa, who re'-i.iwd 
 us most cordially and a<lmilted u^ into the presence- of 
 the royal pair. The room was large and high, with 
 walls decorated with a light greenish paper ornamented 
 with large figmxs; it was modestly furnished, having 
 a few picltuvs on the wall and roun<l taMes on which 
 stood some china flower-jxits. The I'rince was dressed 
 in a white flannel jacket striped with narrow lines of 
 blue, a white cravat and waistcoat, and white checked 
 pantaloons. lie lor.'ked cheerful and hrii»py. The 
 Princess was simply attired in a gown of 1)rowni>h 
 stud without ornament so far ns 1 could discern. She 
 Icjoked most sweet and dignified. She is taller than 
 the Prince, as ai>i)eare<l v.hen we entered and f(rand 
 them .standing side l)y side to receive us. While Anna
 
 CINTHA ANI> MAFRA. 39 
 
 was talking Paris aiul Lisbon with the Princess, I con- 
 versed with the I'rince ahont his cork-forest, four 
 miles h)!!^' by three wide, which yields hitn ^2o,cxx5 
 every eij^lit years, tlie time refjuired to y,ni\\' a croj> of 
 coik-l)ark ; nhoul his swine, of wliieh he sold '$T,<\^y)0 
 worth last year ; about the waj^es paid for labor — 
 25 cents in some i)laces ami $r.(X)])er day in others; 
 about his arran.i^^Mnent of the I'ortut;uese I''\hibition at 
 Paris ; about the a.i;riculture of the country j^enerally ; 
 and about his proposed trip to Paris. We had a most 
 satisfactory interview. The Princess holds her recep- 
 tions every day at one o'cloek. 
 
 It was now considered jMoper that we should be 
 ofhcially received by the (Jueen, and at two o'clock, on 
 the suKK<-"^ti"H "' the Manpiise de iMUiehal that wc 
 miKht silect our driy, we dr«»ve to the prdace ruid strolled 
 b(.l\viiii fdes of soldiers up tlu- wide staircase to the 
 Oueen's salon. W'hrii we hao been admitted lhroU};h 
 the two hu^e doors hunj^ on ancient hitiges, with 
 ancient knobs and latches, we were received by the 
 Marchesa de Inmchal, accompanied by the Dona 
 Nit/.a de Ciama, and the Condessa de vSan Mij;uel, with 
 many gentlemen unknown to us. After a sliort delay 
 we were presented to the Queen by the Duke of I/)ul6, 
 the Queen's Chamberlain, She occupied the satne sofa 
 on which she sat durinj; the birthday reception. She 
 was alone and was most diirnified and attractive in 
 her appearance. vShe has a jjleasant face, tinged with 
 sadness, and lighted by a smile. Our talk was mainly 
 on the health of the King, the antitpiity of the palace, 
 the attractions of Paris, and the glories of Worth. The 
 fpnel, gentle maniu r of the Queen remindid me of
 
 40 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 tliosc admirable old ladies of Salem, now gone, who in 
 llicir lives never knew llie back of a chair, and were 
 models of kindness, dignity, and sincerity. We retired 
 from her presence with our respect for her good quali- 
 ties greatly increased.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 HOR TUGUKSI-: yXORlCULTUI^K.-AUDinNCE WITH 
 THH KINr,.-I)nATH OI- DOM AUGUSTO. 
 
 I have t'titercfl upon an aj^ricullural invcstij^ation, and 
 ])rop()SL' to record a view of the only iiuUistry for which 
 Portui^al is distinj^uished. 
 
 It isiiatnral tliat I, who have been so lonp interested 
 in the agriculture of my own country, should he curious 
 to know ahout the farming of tliis country, which was 
 ancient before ours began, and whose power was fully 
 developed bef jre the shores of America were known. 
 Portugal, which covers an area a little more than four 
 times the size of Massachusetts, is devoted almost en- 
 tirely to agriculture in one form or another. More than 
 fifty per cent, ot its .soil is ])roductive, and the remainder 
 is for grazing and forest. In depth of ravines, and in lofty 
 piles of high and startling boulders, Portugal stands fore- 
 most among the nations of the earth. She iloes not raise 
 grain enough, it is true, for home consumptit)n, — but she 
 produces nearly S^^o.ooo.cxio worth of wineloijuench the 
 thirst of home and foreign multitudes. The cultivation of 
 her ]>roductive lands is almost universal, — but few acres 
 lying idle. Her market-gardens are models of neatness 
 and careful management. The caj)ital invested in 
 mruuifaclures is abotit 5i3,(xy),(KX), and the annual pro- 
 duction is estimated at about <.iH,(jkk),ckx) ; while tiie
 
 42 A YEAR IN F'ORTLT.AL. 
 
 cereal productions of the kingdom amount annually to 
 >43, 087,000. Sb.e imports cottcu to the amount of 
 $4,132,700, raw and manufactured ; farinaceous articles 
 amounting to $S, 203,633 ; animals and animal produc- 
 tions, $3,165, ocxd, Ilerexpoits, consisting large!}' of 
 C(irk-bark and wine, amount to $24,801,761, Mean- 
 while, she produces of Indian corn $2o,477,3(«; of 
 
 wheat, $i3,3^5<^^-^^ ! 'J^" O'*-'! ^3.9M'4i'^; o^ barley, 
 $1,406, 160, 
 
 Tlie crops vary largely in amount, — ranging from 5 
 bushels of wheat to to bushels to the acre ; and rye in 
 al)out the same j)r()iK)rtion. According to careful 
 oflicial estimates contained in the report of the Director- 
 General of Agriculture, land ferlili/.ed with $5.25 worth 
 of manure or other fertili/x-r, will produce 27 bushels 
 of wheat on 2jj acres; the vahie of the wheat and 
 straw Ining <,y), and costing 530.01, 'I'his is a wheat 
 croj) following r\e ; of wlieat aftrr jtotatocs the amoiuit 
 raist'd was 31 'j bushels on 2'!' acres, value'l at $31.50, 
 witli the straw at $4.50 ; the crop costing $33. <xx Of 
 Indian corn, the estimate is interesliTig. as follows on 
 2j J acres : 
 
 Labor of oxm, i)lou;.;liiiig ami liarrowiui; ;f;io.oo 
 
 ^'■^•'1 75 
 
 21 flays' liotiii},', at 2(j els, per <l.iy }.8<> 
 
 6 <la\s' watcriii).; i.Sd 
 
 Mamiri)i>; 6.30 
 
 Ilarvc'sliiiL;, Iniskiii^, and slKjJliiii; 4.20 
 
 IvxptiisfS ^27.S 
 
 Crop, 33 '< l)uslifls oil 2 !i acres, valncl ?33-75 
 
 Corn fodder oti 2^*2 acres S.(k> 
 
 ;f4i-75
 
 l'()RTlJGl!I-Sn AGRICULTURE. 43 
 
 Potatoes, according to the estimate, yield 2>^5y2 
 bushels on 2;^ acres, and are valued at $75.60, costing 
 $66.46. The market-price of wheat is about $1.00 per 
 bushel; Indian corn, $1.00; rj-e, 75 cts. ; barley, 70 
 cts. ; oats, 35 cts ; white beans, $i.oS ; potatoes, 60 cts. 
 P>eef ])rini;s 11 cts. per jumuuI ; veal, 10 cts. ; nuitton, 
 7 cts. ; pork, 10 cts. The wages of farm-hands is 
 abor.t 25 els. ]K'r day for men, and 12 cts. for women. 
 
 Tlie price of wine in Portugal, according to oflicial 
 reports, varies from 55 cts. to Si. 10 per gallon. The 
 yield })er acre varies as largely as the cereal crops to 
 which I have alluded. The ravages of the phyloxera 
 have l)een great in some sections of the country ; and 
 the introduction of American vines, which are free from 
 the.se i)ests, has not resulted as favorably as was hoped. 
 The wine product in 1S.S2 was i25,(kx),(xw) gallon's, 
 
 valued at /,.=>. 7* ><>.<*< '<'• 
 
 A wide landscai)e in Portugal ])resents to view a great 
 numb(.r of farms, and constant succession of cultivated 
 fields devoted to grain croi)s, the weight of which varies 
 most remarkably. Tlie agricultural condition of the 
 sections varies greatly also. The Director-General finds 
 on investigation that the increase or dimituition of popu- 
 lation depends on the condition of agriculture, and not 
 as in New Ivngland on the growth or decline of nuuui- 
 factures. The prf)Sperity of the country depetuls ou 
 the fertility of the soil and the .skill displayed in its 
 cultivation ; and where the ancient methods remain, the 
 population seems to grow fewer, and the soil poorer. 
 In addition to this, the ten years from 1S7S to 1S88 
 were attended with great disasters. Oil has found a 
 poor market, cattle have been low, and the vines have 
 failed. The production of silk has not been profitable.
 
 44 A YliAK IN l'( »lv ITCAL. 
 
 A large portion of the land came under mortgage, ^vhen 
 held by the people in small farms. The pastures of 
 Portugal, except in the Douro district at the north, are 
 jioor ; and the hay crop is universally light. The food 
 of horses and cattle consists entirely of straw and grain. 
 The land '.s mainly held in large estates, and is managed 
 by tenants who either rent ihe farms at a fixed price or 
 carry them (jn sh:ires. Horses, sheep, goals, cattle, 
 swine, and donkeys abound. The slice]-) have lost much 
 of their (juality as merinos, for which they were formerly 
 distinguished. The cattle are very fine. I have never 
 seen in anv country so many admirable oxen as I have 
 seen in and around Lisbon. They are large, measuring 
 often se\-en feet and three or four inches, of a imiform 
 dun color, with stately, well-formed limbs, straight 
 bodies, wide hips, and <lelic;ite ;uid at the same time 
 firm heads. They work in jiiiirs or singly, and are 
 tr.ained to perfection. They are evidently a breed of 
 the coiuitiy,--caret'nlly juvserved. as will be seen by 
 the rules adopted by the managers of the agricidtm-al 
 cxhil)itions. The implements of husbandry are a one- 
 handled jdough, a long-h.indled sj^ade, and "the ox 
 that treadeth out the ccjrn."' 
 
 In Lisbon there are rarajn'as, or milk-stores, in 
 which are kejit from six to twenty cows. ])rovide<l v.ith 
 elegantly fnrnislied stalls, ki-pt perfectly clean, and 
 used to supi)ly fresh milk to customers. The lowsand 
 the counter are in the same apartment. They are 
 among the finest specimens of dairy cows I have ever 
 seen, being Holsteins of moderate size ruid admirable 
 shape, and well-developed grade Jerseys, They arc 
 fed on all they can eat of wheat .straw, carelessly 
 threshed by treading and coarsely chopped ; to which
 
 POKTUGULSE AGKMCULTURl:. 4$ 
 
 are added twice a day about ten quarts of a mixture of 
 large beans soaked and coarse wheat-bran — three quarts 
 of beans and seven of wheat-bran, — evidently a most 
 nutritious food. 
 
 Great care has been taking in breeding horses, and 
 the govenunent has established sixty-five breeding 
 studs, thirty-one in the north, and thirty-four at the 
 south, in which may l)e found the Tlioroughbred the 
 cross of Arab and Portuguese, tlie Anglo-Xonnan, the 
 Clevehuid bay, the Hackney, the Anglo- Arab, the 
 cross of Portuguese and Morocco. They breed espe- 
 cially for the saddle throughout the kingdom, and 
 sure-footed, elastic, well-made horses for this purpose 
 can be found everywhere. 
 
 In iSSS the Department of Agriculture organized a 
 most interesting exhibition in the city of LisbcMi. The 
 directors, in organizing the show, presented with great 
 force the character of the display they desired, and the 
 advantages to be deriveil from it. They urged the 
 judges to consider carefull\- the fitness of various ani- 
 mals for the service recpiired of them and for the 
 demaiuls of the market. ICspecial attention was called 
 to the breeds of animals already existing in Portugal, 
 which, being accustomed to the climate and food, thrive 
 well and fatten early ; and great care in the .selection of 
 animals for crossing was luged. Great .satisfaction 
 was expressed with tlie native bulls, while the neces- 
 sity for using better .strUlions was strongly laid dowti. 
 They encouraged Portuguese and not foreign breeds of 
 cattle therefore ; iti fact, they especially (objected to the 
 introduction of foreign breeds if they tend to weaken 
 the native stock. The premiums offereil under these 
 rules were very liberal and significant. For the best
 
 46 A YUAR IN I'ORTUGAL. 
 
 Stallion $200; for the best lot of marcs $So ; for the 
 best lot of colts <''><> ; for llie best ^eldinj^ $200 ; for the 
 best saddle liorse '$i'><\ For the best bull the i)remuini 
 olTered was '$C><> ; for the best lot of ^-raiiis $iS ; for the 
 best boar ;?2o. No premium was offered f(jr specific 
 breeds. 
 
 The exhibiti(Mi created ^reat interest and was larj;ely 
 attended, 
 
 I'ortu.^'al has for a long time encourai;ed agricultural 
 education, lujr many years the government supported 
 a school, not far from Cintra, at an amuial expense of 
 $23,2X4.. The students received free tuition, and the 
 remainder mnnbering about fifty, ])aid >.S.io;i month 
 each for the service. The best agricultural impU-ments 
 were pnn'ided for prep-iring the land, .seeding and har- 
 vesting. The cultivation of market-ganlening and 
 field crops w;is carefully attended to. \'ines of the 
 best varieties were introduced. The dairy was man- 
 aged according to the most approved s)-stem. The 
 care of suijie, i)onltry, .and bees was especially tatight. 
 The graduates of this inslilution, now established near 
 Coinjbra, are in constant (Uniand as su[Krintendc'ntsof 
 estates; an«l the aj)plications f<«r admission into the 
 college far e.xcred its a<'<'ommo(l;iii(»ns. 'I'he college 
 can hardly Ix; called classical or purely scienlin<'. Of 
 the s<h<>ol rind Its elforl it lias been sai<l : " There aie 
 ^reat diniculties to be overcome in displacing the old to 
 make room for the new, however great the improve- 
 ments of the latter in a country whose peasantry have 
 been bred to ancient ways, and who fear the iimovation 
 of new idcMS aufl l.dxtr-sax'ing ap))li:uices may deprive 
 tlM'in <>\' \\]<- f.'ppoilunity lo <ai n a lis'ing by work and 
 .so condemn tliem to a }.;rcater poverty than they now
 
 rOKTUGUIISn AGKICULTURE. 47 
 
 endure. But gradually the little leaven of the institu- 
 l.ion is leavc'niii}; the mass." In addition to this insti- 
 tulion, I'ortngal has now a well-endowed system of 
 edneation. 
 
 The eharaclcristics of this industrial organization 
 which I have briefly described are sim[)lieity and 
 economy. The investments are not large nor are the 
 profits. The amount of money involved is compara- 
 tively small. The wages of labor, as 1 have pointed 
 out, are very low ; and steady, long-continued toil is 
 the law of life. I have seen laborers going to the field 
 before sum'ise on long summer days, and I have seen 
 them returning at twilight in the evening. Their re- 
 ])ose they take at mid-day. I have seen twenty reapers 
 at work in a wheat-field which a reaper and binder 
 would have cut in a few morning hours, and the field 
 Avas not half reaped towards the close of the forenoon. 
 In it all I saw no recognized personal i)overty nor did I 
 see much wealth or energy or ambition. The iK'ojile were 
 well fed if we may judge by strength and form and nnis- 
 cle. In fact, the l'ortu;-;uese are a will-made people. 'I'he 
 strength of the ])orters is ama/.iug. The longshoremen 
 aie vi^'.orous and strong. The solditis ha\'e sturdy 
 habits and a great stride. The yomig men who go 
 loilh to their business in IJsbon liavi' athlilie fiames. 
 TIk- jx destrians in Ciiitra possess great muscular power 
 — else the hills would kill them. There is apparently 
 no haste here. The climate is delightful. The soil is 
 easily culti\-ateil. Summer in ilifferent decrees is per- 
 petual. 
 
 An eN<uisioii :imouj', the firms around Cintra is 
 most delightful. Apple \\a\ lies along the sea about 
 five miles awa\\ and in reaching it yon dri\e u[> and
 
 ^^ A vi;ar in y()un'(jM. 
 
 (1"%vn the sUcp hills f>r wliirh Ciiilra is famous, be- 
 tween llie liiKh, lhick-])laskKrl sloiic-walls. Iiuiik' with 
 viiK-s aiul ferns and Kcranituns, wliich Imund the road 
 on either hand, out into an (^pen eountry with a sandy 
 way. and alon^ Uic foot of a hi-h raiiKc of hills, until 
 y<.u reach the sea. These hills are literally covered 
 with vineyards from which the famous Collares wine 
 is madc—Collares hein^r a small villaj^e through 
 which you drive on your way to Apple J{;iy. The 
 sea view here is as fine as any you ^vt at Marhlehead 
 or Cape Ann or Cape Cod or the shores of Maine, 
 —in s(nne respects finer. Apple J'.ay has a short heacli 
 between two hit;]i proniont(^ries, at the focjt and up the 
 sides of which are piled -reat blwks of a black, roui;h, 
 seamed rock, indented as if it had been pelted with 
 eternal hailstones. The breakers against the.se rocks 
 are sid)lime, and the .surf of the beach, stretcliiii}; from 
 one breaker to the other, is a great silver-bond to com- 
 I)K te the j)iclure. I have never seen on our coast, even 
 after a .slorni, such activity of the .^ea. The ocean 
 beyo-nd gave no evidence of a gale, but the surf rolled 
 up three high waves deep with great while crests and 
 a roar as if they were enraged by Uxir limilerl sphere 
 of actiryii. The ocean liere is most " beautifully blue," 
 and .sparkles over its entire surface. The .sky above is 
 bluer, if possible, and you feel as if all nature realized 
 the jihenomena (jf tliis voU-ani ; rfMintry. 
 
 I Ijave been received by the King at the old jyalace 
 at Cintra,— rpiite cmt of the usual crmrse,- this being 
 the first time in modern days that a foreign minister 
 lias had an audience cmtside of l.isl^on anrl the Aiuda 
 Talace. The extreme illness of the Kinj; rendered
 
 AUniENCi: WITH THE KING. AO 
 
 this ijcecssary. The ceremony look place at two 
 o'clock. I drfjvc to llic palace, which is about three 
 minutes' walk from the hotel, armed with the Presi- 
 dent's letter accrediting me, and a copy of my address 
 to the King. When I reached the wide marble 
 steps leading to the broad landing, I was taken in 
 hand by attendants in gorgeous livery and escorted to 
 the anteroom of the reception salon of the palace in 
 which was given the birthday ball I have already 
 described. There I was met by his ICxccllency vSenhor 
 IJarros Gomes, the Minister for Foreign Affairs, who 
 left me with the Marchesa de Funchal and Made- 
 moiselle Nitza de Gama, Ladies-in-waiting. Kre 
 long the doors of the great salon were thrown open 
 and a group of gentlemen, brilliant in uniform and 
 decorations, passed on — the cabinet ministers, as we 
 should call them. The Grand Chanil)erlain led the 
 way. Tlie procession filed across the great landing 
 and left me with the ladies, — and I also was in waiting. 
 In a few minutes my comi)anions were summoned, and 
 I was in wailing alone. At last my signal came, and 
 I passed across the opeJi space into a small red room 
 containing the King, the Queen, aixl Prince AfTotiso, 
 the ladies-in-waiting, and the cabinet. The King sat 
 opposite the entrance iji a handsome arm-chair uphol- 
 stered with brocade. He looked feeble and sick, and 
 with his decorations and n<atly fitting drcs'^-suit, he 
 most ai)propriately rei)resentcd his ai^ed kingdom. He 
 receive<l the Presidiiil's letter, which I presented, and 
 I i)roceeded to deliver my speech as follows: 
 
 "Your Majesty: I have the honor to be charged 
 by the President of the United States with the pleasing 
 and honorable duly of presenting to Your Most Faith- 
 4
 
 50 A VCAI'' IN l'()Kri!f.AI,. 
 
 ful ^^ajcsty a letter nccreditiiivc mc as Minister Uesident 
 to your Majesty's }<<Aeriinieiit. 
 
 " I Itrin^ with mc fn^ni the government and people 
 of the United vStates the most cordial feelinj^s of friend- 
 sliip and ^ood will. 'Die amicaldc relations which 
 have so lon^ existed between Portugal and the I'nited 
 States have heen continued williout ])reak or intermis- 
 sion from the time when Wasliington sent his fa\orite 
 general and friend, the jwet of the Americati revolution, 
 to represent, as its first minister, the young republic at 
 this court c>f renown and achievement. The f(junders 
 of American connnercc were intimate with the mer- 
 chants and captains of Lisbon, whose name is still 
 cherished in our maritime communities. 
 
 "It is a source of great gratification that in all 
 vicissitudes these relati(Mis have ne\'er been broken. 
 
 " In his communication to ni}- faithful and distin- 
 guished predecesscjr, ainiouming my appointment to the 
 post he so honorably filled, the Secretary (jf State in- 
 formed him that I ha\eheld an important official relation 
 to the agriculture of the I'nited Slates aseonuuissioner. 
 In this service I have learned the \alue of natioiial in- 
 dustries to the welfare of the state, and I trust I maybe 
 allowed to obsc-rve and in\x>tigate the method by which 
 Your Majesty's people ])reservc and de\'elop tliat occu- 
 pation which is the fundamental calling of all nations, 
 the Central ])illar in that social system of which com- 
 merce and manufactures are the associates, and which 
 binds all peoples together in a common brotherhood. 
 
 " On my journey hither, I took occasion to visit and 
 examine the specimens of her various industries which 
 Portugal had sent to the great exhibition at Paris ; and 
 I am hajipy in ha\ing this (opportunity to express to
 
 AUDlliNCI- WITH Till; KING. 5! 
 
 Your ^^ajc•sly my admiration of ihc collection, as illus- 
 tratint; the taste and skill of Vonr Majesty's people. 
 
 " W'liile extending; to Yonr Majesty's government 
 these assurances of the sincere friendship entertained 
 l)y the government and people of the United vStates, I 
 express also their deep interest in Vonr Majesty's per- 
 sonal welfare and happiness, and their hope that Your 
 Majesty may enjoy a l<jng and prosperous reign." 
 
 To which His Majesty made the following reply : 
 
 " Mr. Minister : I receive with much pleasure the 
 letter by which you are accredited as Minister Resident 
 near me, and am gratified to hear the expressions 
 of cordiality which you connnunicatc to me from the 
 President and the noble people of the United vStates of 
 America. 
 
 " The political and connnercial relations between the 
 two nations, .so auspiciously maintained without inter- 
 ruption during nearly a century, tend not only to j^re- 
 .ser\e their friendship but to increase more and more by 
 the simultaneous development of the two pef)ples as 
 exhibited in their industrial ])rogress and agricultural 
 productions. 
 
 " The eminent qualities with which you are endowed, 
 and their recognition by a previous appointment to an 
 important commission which you lately discharged, will 
 greatly strengthen and contribute to these relations. 
 
 " The knowledge of mutu:il interests accpiired by 
 the observation wliich the exercise of that charge gave 
 you, is a guaranty that your mission will have a bene- 
 ficial influence on the increase of commercial transac- 
 tions and of communication between the two countries, 
 and in strengthening the bonds of friendship between 
 the two nations.
 
 52 A VI:aK in rC^RTI'iJAL. 
 
 "For that imrpose yoii may count upon the assidu- 
 ous coopcTati<Mi of my govcninicut and my good will." 
 
 At the conclusion of the King's speech \vc i)arted, 
 and I turned to the Queen, who was laden with pearls 
 and jewels adorning a white satin dress, and expressed 
 to her the respect my government has for her ^lajesty. 
 1 then i)aid my respects to the Prince who stood near, 
 and on a signal from the Minister for Foreign Afi^urs I 
 departed. 
 
 A Portuguese vSunday is the usual ICuropeau mixture 
 of Sunday and holiday. I had a full experience of 
 one yesterday— at a rude market-place in Cintra, where, 
 I was told, I could see the people and the products of 
 their industry. lioth are unpolished, ajid I looked 
 about the rough crowd to find the finely .shaped pot- 
 tery which the peasantry of vSoutherii Fairope claim as 
 their specialty. The scene was primitive and quaint ; 
 the people were coarsely clad ; the wares exposed for 
 sale were couuucju ; the animals were v.retched ; and 
 the "articles manufactured from leather " were most 
 ordinary. When we reached the fair ground.— a rough 
 valley in a roiigher village, shaded by a few shadowy 
 trees, and adorned with a very dilapidated stone 1)and- 
 stand,— we found a vast collection of coarse pottery, 
 jars and jugs ungla/ed, and milk-pans glazed, with no 
 beauty whatever. The utile completely displaced the 
 dithi, and we wandered on disappointed, to fall in with 
 a large table of cheap trinkets and gewgaws, at which 
 Loring lingered and bought only a huge clasp-knife. 
 Thence we proceeded through a collection of sad- 
 dlery — cheap bridles and straps tan-colored — and enor- 
 mous i>ack-saddles. Bevond these was a large herd of
 
 AUDIfiNCr: WITH TIllZ OUEEN. 53 
 
 swine — old and yoinig, black and white — lyinj? lazily 
 a1)Out and attract! 11 j; <^reat attention from the crowd 
 who evidently never lieard of the morale of a Jew or 
 the dani;er of trichina. The people at the fair were 
 evidently of the lowest order. We made onr visit 
 .short and retnrned to the qniet of onr hotel and the 
 delights of our l)ooks. 
 
 At noon we were .sudilenly informed that the day 
 was the Oueen's name-daj- and her majesty was receiv- 
 ing. It was vSt. Maria's day. When we reached the 
 palace we found t'.ie coint and the diplomatic cMrps as- 
 .scmhled in the anteroom of the great salon. The pretty 
 Princess Amelie greeted us very cordially and we were 
 at once presented to the Oueen by the Grand Chamber- 
 lain. The inter\-iew was short. The condition of the 
 King's health c;;st a ^h.adow over the occasion, and 
 created in the Queen an air of sadness and ner\'ousness 
 wliich it was tcniching to contemplate. vShe was at- 
 tended by her younger .son, J\m\ Affonso. 
 
 Ocfolur ^l/t. — It is a rainy day-the flr^t we have 
 had in Cintra, and I sujipose what is called here the 
 rainy .season has begun. After days and weeks of 
 bright sun the fogs began to gather over the western 
 sea, towards the approach of c\-cning, and at last they 
 rolled over the land in great masses and took possession 
 of liill and valley. And now they have made np a 
 good vigorous rain storn\, not rising, as in New Ivng- 
 land, against the wind, and showing their cloudy signs 
 iu the west preparatory to a northeaNler,- but gather- 
 ing on the sea])oard as the troops of the Duke t)f Wel- 
 lington gathered and marching iidand with favoritig 
 gales, coiuptering and to ciMKpier. I like the day. 
 req)etual smishine or "eternal sinishine," as the poet
 
 54 A vi;ar in rciRirr.AL. 
 
 has it, is lircscnnc. A rainy day is ^(kkI for contcinpla- 
 lioii. While the earth and sky are i)erfornniig their 
 toilet and preparing for the gay season of ])right 
 weather, one ean withdraw from them and turn to 
 his own seelusion. The seenes of Cintra are inde<.cl 
 fascinating — and you never tire of contemplating the 
 great rocky hills and the deep verdant ravines — pet)pled 
 with such heroic names as John de ('astro and St. 
 I'Vancis Xavier and \'asco de Gama and Dom Manuel, 
 — and l(K>king down upon the great theatre of Welling- 
 ton's martial exploits ; the chosen al)o<les o( historic 
 Moors and Christians ; the heights where castles i)erch, 
 and the valleys where convents and monasteries hi<le ; 
 the region of luxuriant gardens and sterile hills ; — )<)U 
 do not easily tire of tlVis sc-ene with all its associations. 
 There is nothing here after the usual order. The 
 stfjrms, as I have said, come up with the wind and 
 nuike arrangements for a regular incursi«jn. 
 
 I went yesterday to see the model farm of the 
 region. Instead of a cheerful firm-steading with 
 broad fertile fields and a pleasant outlook, betcjken- 
 ing thrift, f<jr man and beast, I found a huge nion- 
 aslery occupying a small plateau surrounded by the 
 most stupendous and gigantic construction of cliff 
 and liill and boulder I have yet .seen even in this 
 region of rocky greatness. The approach was through 
 a long aveiuie lined with trees wluxse heads were tied 
 together to make an arch. The entrance to the mansion, 
 now reduced from ecclesiastical to secular })urposes, was 
 through the .stable-yard, where we .stopped to contem- 
 plate the lujrses and their stalls before we were received 
 by the master in his drawing-room. As he was dining
 
 A PORTUGlinsn FARM. 55 
 
 ^ve passed oti to an imposing stone stable for the cows, 
 forty in number, a l)uil(ling with picturesque walls 
 made of irregular stones of various colors and joined 
 ]jy pink mortar, whose wide-raised scams looked like 
 great veins and tendons, with an interior fdled with 
 stylish stalls and floored with stone. Then we visited 
 .'iu imposing piggen,-, also floored with slone, with paved 
 yards where a multitude of swine grumbled over their 
 cleanliness and were pining for a good dig in the .soil. 
 From this we mounted a little stony height to a 
 columbarium which rose like a tower out of a rab- 
 bit hutch, where numerous unhappy rabbits were con- 
 flned in little wire cages, one for each rabliit ; accom- 
 modations which neither pigs nor rabbits seemed to 
 enjoy. All this led to the kitchen garden whose little 
 crops of cal)l)ages and carrots and melons and grapes 
 and lettuce I will not describe. We passed through 
 a series of poultry yards in which hens, turkeys, geese, 
 and ducks were enjoying their confuiement ; and we 
 were then guided into a dairy whose architectural 
 ])eauty and marble tabk-s and porcelain pans and tes- 
 .sellated floor occupied so nuich of our attention, that 
 we forgot the emptiness of the pans and the .small sup- 
 ply of butler. No dair)' nu\chinery was visible— the 
 season however was adver.se and the pasture feed .short. 
 15y this time the dinner was over and we were most 
 kindly received by Count Pena I.onga, an old gentleman, 
 with a silk cap on his head and attended by a huge 
 .stately Danish bloodhound, of a rich .slaty color, related 
 to the famous dogs of IJismarck. The old gentleman 
 ushered us into a handsotne .salon through which was 
 .scattered a small supply of rich furniture ; thence into 
 a beautiful chai)el with an imposing altar and a lofty
 
 5^> 
 
 A Y1;AI/ in I-CJIMTCAL 
 
 jK-w ill the wall for royuUy ; lliencc through charm- 
 ing cloisUrs iiUo a fmc dining-room wlierc sat. a long 
 table ^vilh a great array of empty chairs and a little 
 table where the host took his solitary meal — for lie is a 
 lonely old man of simple ways, v.'ithout ser\'aiits in 
 livery or even a stylish butler. He was very hospitable 
 and presented us with a large basket of fruit when we 
 left. He boasted of his butter — I boasted of my milk. 
 He said he laid out his farm with five hundred men, 
 and now with a nni< ii re<bued foixe wastrving to make 
 ilsuppoil itself by furnishing biitti r to the King and 
 some of his foitiuiate subjeets, I told him I had bcell 
 nraily lliirty >'i'ais tiying 1h<- .same evpi linunl in vain 
 -- bairing the royal ( n-ilomcis. This is the model farm 
 of Cinlra, i>eihaj)-. of this jtart of rorlugal. And this is 
 the fale of one of the snp])rrssed monasteries of I'ortu- 
 gal. The scenery around this farm is extremely deso- 
 late, the rocky ]>eaks rising high above the sterile ]>lains, 
 if i)Iains lliey can Ite calU d. Tiie plain is named I'ena 
 I/'iiga - so iianiid on ;i<count of an enormous boidder 
 which stands on end at the very ])eak of a high cluster 
 of rocks as if jilanted there by the hand of man. 
 
 C) vSenhor Dom Augusto Maria Fernande/. Carh>s 
 Miguel Gabriel Raphael Agricola Francisco de Assis 
 Cion/.aga IVdn> d' Alcantara I,oyola de liragan/.a I>our- 
 bon Saxe Coburg Gotha, Du'iue de Coimbra, is dead. 
 He departe<l this life Se])tember sOth ;it the age (jf forty- 
 two, having been born November 4, 1S47. His father 
 was Prince I'erdinand of Saxe-Coburg, one of those 
 German princes who have succeeded in marrying into 
 roy.'d families, I sup])ose, on accoinit of their political 
 neutrality I'crdinand, or Dom J'Vrnando, as he be-
 
 [JliATll (>V boM AICjUSTO. 57 
 
 canic in Portugal, was a cousin of Albert, the Prince 
 Consort, and he i)osscssc(l tlic admirable ([ualitics which 
 made the prince so IkIovccI in lvn;^land. The mother 
 ofDoni Augusto was Oueen Maria II., known as Maria 
 (jloria, who was the daughter of Pedro IV., the first 
 Kmperor of P>ra/.il, and who, as of the Pragan/.a line, 
 the emancipators of Portugal from the rule of vSpain in 
 1640, received the crown from her father in 1S26, mar- 
 ried the Prince of Peuchtenberg in 1X35, was a widow 
 in two months, and in iS;/. marriid I )om I'lvnando, and 
 died in i.s.s.^. leaving fix-e sons, o| whom l)om Augnsto 
 was OIK', 'riiese sons weir I )(ini Pedro \'., l)omJohn, 
 I )om iMMiiiniio, Doin AnjMi'-t«>, and I >om l<nis. ( )n the 
 de:illi ol the (Juein in i.s,v\ the King Consort. 1 )om 
 I'eniaiido, lacame ri'gcnt and remained in power until 
 1.S55, when Dom Pedro \'. came to the throne. He 
 married in 1S59 " M.idame Ilensler Condessa d'h/lla." 
 He die<l in 1SS3. 
 
 The ]!ragan/.a family, from the time of John IV., in 
 )(i\'>, name<l "the Restorer," has had a most varied 
 career. A hundred years before John I\'. liberated 
 Portugal .she had attained the height of her glory and 
 greatness and ruled the great colonies and the com- 
 merce of the world. In the year that followed .she had 
 .seen her army, composed of sixteen thousand men, iji- 
 cluding the flower of the Portuguese aristocracy, utterly 
 destroyed in Africa, and her King, vSebastian, the com- 
 mander, wiped out of sight forever. Pliilip II. of Spain 
 had succeeded in seizing herthione. She had enthnvd 
 the Ca.stilian usurpation, a captivity of sixty years. 
 She had lost her empire in Asia .and nearly the whole 
 of Pra/.il, and in a single centni> had performed the 
 great tragedy among the nations of the earth. When
 
 58 A VLAK IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 John IV. of Iira,i;an/:i fought his way into power his 
 country was prostrate. He ])rocccdccl to defeat the 
 Si>aniards at home, and tlie Dutch in the ishinds in the 
 Atlantic, Angoki, Maranhani, and Pernanibuco. His 
 S(jJi, Affonso VI., <lrove the Dutch from IJra/.il, was de- 
 clared insane, and banished tf) tlie ishmd of Terceira, 
 where he reiiiaiiicd six years ; was afterwards confiiied 
 in tlic paL'K <■ at t'iiitra, whi re he died at the early a^.'e 
 of folly. .Mi-.iiiwliile roilii^'.al h.id li'.eii, and Joliii \'.. 
 known as th<' M;i;;naniiiious, built Mafra, (•((iistnu led 
 y.real .MitiediK t>, speiil tile eimrinotis weidth \\lii( h h.nl 
 llowed ill Iroiii th<; colonies, died, and Kit the lieasniy 
 eiiipt\. An e:irtli(|iiake deslroyid in this ])eriofl a j^reat 
 p.'iit of Ki^b()n, and added a gha.slK' horror to the tragic 
 era. The f)ueen, Maria I., became insane, and Napo- 
 leon declared the House of IJragan/.a had ceased to 
 exist. Ihit tlie strange career did not end here. In 
 1807 the armies of I'rance, muler Junot,' iiuaded Portu- 
 gal, .and Ihe I'ragan/.as, the royal family, sought refuge 
 in I'.ra/il, while the ICnglish, led by Sir Arthur Welles- 
 ley, laid the great milil.iry lines of Torres \'edras and 
 dro\'e the I'Ven'h from the Iberian Peninsula. The 
 insane queen dic<l in Rio; her son, John \' I., succeeded 
 to the tliionc ,ind lelurned to Lisbon, having surren- 
 dered Pia/.il lo his son Dom Pedjo in iS,'n. And then 
 a family fight eomni'nctd. Dom Migui'l, the King's 
 .second son, rai-ed a re\dll :i;'ainst the constitution 
 wliii !) Ii;id 1>een pioebiinnd .uid a' . epied by the King; 
 !iiid !i'' loiiliiiu' d liii waif;!!'' foi nioir lliali ten yeaiS, 
 M< lon;'ll! |ii> I.iIIp I Ulllll lie wa > biini^lled to V'ieuim 
 ill i.'^.'i ; ,s,iw llie Paa/il'i aef. nowled;.Md indepeiideul ; 
 learned the tieath o| his father in i«.-'6; and saw his 
 brothel-, Pedro 1\'., elevated to the thr(»ne, signing the
 
 TflE BRAGANZA FAMILY- 59 
 
 constitutional charter, abdicating in favor of his daugh- 
 ter, Dona Maria Gloria, on condition that she observe 
 the constitution and " marry her uncle, Dom Miguel." 
 This arrangement, however, did not seem to work. 
 This charming inicle, Dom Miguel, managed to be 
 proclaimed king and to secure tlie snjiport of Austria, 
 I^nssia. ;nid all the opponents of the liberal cause in 
 ]*,urope, rpoM this iV'bo IV. l.nided in I'ortni^al with 
 an ;iiiny of ;-.e\'eii thons:iiid five lnin<bed tiien, ;uid lo- 
 gellii I \\ illi the ])iikeof Tiiceir,!, with bis e\pe(blion 
 from the A/.ons, and Sir Cliailes Na[»ier's performances 
 on the hiy;h seas, (>rushed J )om Mignel and <bove liim 
 from the throne. And now Maria II. was i)roclaimed 
 queen in iS,^^), married Dom I'Vrnando the same 
 year, and left the fi\e sons to whom I have already 
 referred. 
 
 I'nt the Ihagan/.a tragedy did n<>t end here. Doni 
 Peib'o \'. commenced his reign in i-'^55. His father had 
 };iven him a fine education. Dom I'ernando hiid grace- 
 ful talent and a good deal of aesthetic culture, lie was 
 a good nuisician, f)nd of art and architecture, devoted 
 himself to the restoration and adornment of the old 
 convent at I'ena, and was an elegatit and perhaps 
 somewhat v«»lnpt)ions gentleman, who j.',a\e ganlen 
 ])aities, and sang swei tly with his fiiends in the 
 gntuii'N. Dom iVdio \'., the son, was a most amiable 
 and accomplished kinj.',. The jn-ople were cxlra\'a- 
 ganlly fond ol' him, and under his reiv-.u l*oituj;aI 
 fieemeil t(» be lisiti); illln thecultutc and pi nsperity (»f 
 Wi II iildi'H'd peace, 
 
 In NdVcuilKr, iKOi, the luyal lamilN \M If ic'.lding (il 
 the r,i!,iii() (|;is Neeessida<K s, a ma).;nificenl ^lructure 
 in IJsbon, built by Dom John \'., at whose touch
 
 60 A YHAH IN rORTl'GAL. 
 
 the gT«-'^i^- treasures vi I'orlu-al incited away. In 
 lliat nunilh a slrangc and fatal disease, supposed by 
 some to have been conlraeted in Uie marshes toward 
 the north, and believed by many to have l)een the 
 result of jKjison, carried ofT the Kinj; and two of liis 
 l)rothers, to tlie dismay and horr<»r of the connnunity. 
 Two (jnly were left, 1 )<;m lAiis, tlie present king, who 
 was heir to tlie thn;ne, who arrived in the Tagus three 
 days after the death u[ his brother, and who when 
 informed of the death of the Kin;-,^ said : " I have lost 
 by one stroke the Us<) thin;.;s I most prized in the 
 world : my brother and my liberty" ; and Dom An^usto, 
 who died SepUinber ^Olh and was buried October ist, 
 iSSi;. ])r)iu Luis still rei;j,ns, a scholarly, accomjilished, 
 judicious gentleman, brc-ken in health at fiity-one, 
 unable to walk, and evidently suffering from mortal dis- 
 ease. His death may be expected at any time. 
 
 Dom Augusto has dragged f)n a feeble existence, 
 bn^ken'down, as it is said, by the disease which attacked 
 him more than a 'luarter of a century ago. I met him at 
 the reception given at the palace in Cintra on the birth- 
 day of Dom Affonsothe Prince Royal, and had a short 
 conver^atiou with him. He was very tall, an<l .stoop- 
 ing. He bore hinrself like a feeble man and walked 
 with difl'iculty, as he had done since his illness. He 
 was a faithful friend, an affectionate brother, and an 
 amiable member of society. I olten met him on 
 the road in Cintia in his barou'lie, drawn by four good- 
 looking nuiles. His last hours were su(;thed by the 
 Condessa d'Jvlla in the P;dac:(» <las Nece^sidades, to 
 whi'h he was carried but a few days before his death. 
 His funeral was a rortugucse i)a:.;eant. A long line 
 of very ordinary hackn.ey coupes in which were a few
 
 FUNERAL OF DOM AUGUSTO 6l 
 
 private carriages scattered and containing anny and 
 navy and civil ofTicials, led the procession. These 
 were followed by the hearse, a huge structure entirely 
 covered by a heavy black cloth and drawn by six 
 horses, also clothed in black, from their ears to their 
 heels. Then came a succession of heavy, elaborate, 
 huge, gilded, deeply can'ed, richly upholstered, mas- 
 sively adorned carriages of state, some one hundred, 
 some three hundred years old, remarkable for the great 
 ornamental excrescences, which were ])iled on the two 
 ends of the carriage while the body of the vehicle 
 swung on huge thorough-))races, mounted with heavy 
 gold buckles. The gold-mounted liarnesses almost 
 obscured the horses that wore them. The j)rocession 
 woiuid its way through the narrow streets of the 
 hilly town to the Church of ,St. \'incent, the ])atron 
 saint of I^isbon, and which is the last resting-iilace 
 of the dynasty of Hragan/a. I'or the fust time I saw 
 a royal funeral with the ceremony of the church. I 
 found a seat provided for me in the diplomatic tribune, 
 a high raised and draped enclosure, where sat the 
 diplomatic corj)S in uniform (jf various grades and every 
 degree of glitter. I sat at one end of the front seat, while 
 the Pojje's Nuncio, Monsigneur \'ainuitelli, a most de- 
 lightful person, who gives you a warm greeting with his 
 sensible face and his good grip, satat the other end — he 
 in his robes, I in my repui)lican dress-coat an<l white 
 cravat. The scene I looked down u])<)n w.is most 
 striking. I was near one corner of the chancel an«l 
 could see the whole church. The huge cofiin was 
 borne into the chancel and ])laced on an elevated dais. 
 .Ml about the church sat fr.iternities in every v;uiet\' of 
 costume — long gray surplices, ornamental uniforms.
 
 62 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 solemn sashes, fine irimniings. In an enclosure in 
 front of us was a group of decorated senators. Below 
 them a body of generals of the army — a good-looking 
 manly lx>dy of peaceful warriors. Inside the chancel 
 were the ministers of .state in l)rilliant array, and at the 
 altar the archbishop and bishop with a mysterious 
 body of attendants, which resembled on a very large 
 .scale the group I have often admired. 
 
 'i'he ceremony was long and very impressive, and 
 was thoroughly appreciated by the congregation. On 
 the cofTin re>t.ed the sword and cap of the deceased — 
 for he was a captain (jf artillery, whose duty in times of 
 peace was to atteml with his troops on funerals and 
 royal processions.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 CINTRA.-PORTUGUFISI: IinROES— DEATH AND 
 F-UNI:IML Ol- THE KING. 
 
 October isth. — I have just had a visit from the Mar- 
 quis of Ailsa, whoso home is on the Clyde, and whose 
 large hmded estate of nearly Sc\(xx) acres iu Scotland 
 resembles somewhat the great tract of picturesque 
 territ(.rv which constitutes the j^asture lands of ICssck 
 Couuly. The Manjuis came to Tishon in his yacht 
 'rHania, on his aimual cruise in the Mediterranean aiul 
 Si)anish waters, and brought a letter of introduction to 
 me from vSir George Bonham, the Secretary of the I**ng- 
 lish Legation, who is now in Lisbon. Ailsa presented 
 his letter of introduction, which I should always recog- 
 nize, and with his own (piiet and self possessed ways, 
 won his way at once into my hospitality. I made with 
 liim excursions to all the remarkable and attractive 
 spots ill Cintra. We explored the I'alacio da Pena 
 carefully ; crept through the Cork Convent i)atiently ; 
 made vSji- I'lancis Cook a long morning call, at which 
 we were treated with great hospitality and kindness, 
 while we admired his graceful palace at Montserrate 
 and his luxuriant garden, and grew enthusiastic over 
 the great natural beauties of Cintra. 
 
 When the >Larquis left Cintra I escorted him into 
 IJsbon and dined with him on board the Tilania, 
 a beautiful steam yacht of three hundred tons, with 
 
 f«3
 
 64 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 most graceful lines, and an ckgant outfit for a com- 
 fortable and gentlemanly cruise. She lay in the wide 
 harlxjr of Lisbon, where the Tagus spreads out into a 
 great bay, and all around her was gathered a fleet of 
 merchantmen of every nationality, with here and there 
 a man-of-war, while tlie lights of Lisbon and of the 
 little villages along the curving shore were reflected in 
 the smooth water, and a great full moon, " round as my 
 shield," shed a j>ale and thoughtful light over the 
 whole scene. The Cire;it I'ear lay low ir. the hori/.on, 
 and the North vStar looked down from his eternal and 
 unchanging throne to remind me of tl at spot from 
 which I have so oflc-n sur\-e_\ed it and f(.lt that it was 
 a conslant friend. The scene was dream like, and as I 
 was n)wed ashore io lake the train for Cinlra I .seemed 
 lo be IransporUtl to a land filieil with heroic memories, 
 great aspirations, valiant deeds, and romantic thoughts, 
 over whicli was spread the hush and mystery of the 
 recorded past. I forgot tlie material pleasures of the 
 yacht, the Scotch hospitality and cheer, so in contrast 
 with my daily experience in this land of dietetic expe- 
 dients, and wandered tlirough the ghostly streets of 
 Lisl)on in the moonlight, to return to the rich verdure 
 and sok-nui crags of Cintra. My way lay along the 
 quay, which stretch.es by the river-bank for miles, and 
 is busy from sunrise to smiset with gallegos bearing 
 heavy burdens of coal and wood, and oxen moving the 
 great wains, and l)arefoot women carrying broad bas- 
 kets of fish and vegetables on their heads, and sailors 
 unloading their lateen vessels of the huge, widesjirend 
 cargoes of straw, and great freight of fagots for burn- 
 ing, and long lumber from Norway, and Belgian Ijlocks 
 .split out from the ledges high up the river. It was all
 
 Vasco de gama. 6s 
 
 still and weird and. moonlit now. I was making my 
 way out of Lisbon alon^ that path which led north- 
 ward into the historic portion of tlic kingdom in which 
 had been enacted nearly all the deeds which made 
 Portugal great and all the tragedies which made her 
 mournful. From Lisbon to Braga on the north, all 
 along the Atlantic coast, the Portuguese character dis- 
 played itself for centuries. Here were the great sieges, 
 here the ])loody battles, here the warring factions, here 
 the fleets of discovery were fitted out, here the armies 
 for foreign conquest were organized, here the wealth of 
 foreign commerce was gathered, and here the vast 
 treasure poured into the kingdom by great merchants 
 and brave captains was wasted by weak and extrava- 
 gant monarchs. 
 
 The landmarks are all im])ressive. IJelem, the 
 great tower, erected originally as a defence against 
 pirates, which has stood for nearly four centuries, 
 armed with ancient cannon, a picturesque structure 
 which first welcomes all who enter the Tagus, and fills 
 them with admiration of its towers and Gi)thic arches, 
 reminds you tliat on this spot Vasco de Gama first .set 
 foot on his return from the discovery of a new empire. 
 From the rocky peaks of Cintra the King had witnes.sed 
 the approach of his triumphant little fleet as it entered 
 the mouth of the river and cast anchor off the shore 
 of Belem. The story it told was fabulous. The circuit 
 of the Cape had been accomplished, the ])rosperous 
 regions of Africa had been ex]>lore(l, the Indian Ocean 
 had been navigated, the secret designs of hostile tribes 
 had been circumvented, the treasures of the Ivast had 
 been discovered, and were poured into the treasury of 
 Portugal until she became the most powerful empire in
 
 66 A YllAR IN I'ORTUGAL. 
 
 the world and Lisbon the richest and busiest emporium 
 in ICurope. Hardly had the Western Continent been 
 discovered when the gorgeous civilization of the East 
 was reached by the bold Portuguese navigator. I?orn in 
 a small seajxjrt town on tlie coast of the Aigarves, he had 
 become so familiar with the sea and so brave and hardy 
 under its influence that before he was thirty years old 
 he had accomplished his great work, and dying at fifly- 
 five, he had discovered and subdued great colonies in 
 the Kast, had been appointed Viceroy of India, and had 
 suffered from neglect at the hands of those he had en- 
 riched. His remains were brought from India where he 
 died to Lisbon, and with the most solemn and imposing 
 ceremonies were deposited in the Carmelite Church at 
 Vidigueira, where they now rei)ose in a magnificent 
 mausoleum erected to the memory (»f the renowned 
 Discoverer of the Indies. In menuyry of his great 
 achievements and t(» mark the s])ot where he an<l his 
 cotiipaiiioiis spent liie night b(.iore their dfj);irtiiie in 
 prayer to G'ld for his blessing on their luidertaking, 
 and in gratitude for the success of the voyage, King 
 Manuel founded a church, dedicated to St. Mary, to 
 the erection of which he devoted the first gold that 
 came from India. All Ih.'it art and architecture could 
 do was done to give beauty and grandeur to the build- 
 ing. From the portico, which is ])rofusely ornamented 
 with statues, to the high-vaulted roof with its wdiite 
 marble pillars and its imposing cupolas, the .symmetiy 
 is perfect. And the cloisters are not surpassed by any 
 in luirope. As a monument to the great discoverer it 
 is most interesting, and as a token of gratitude to God, 
 who had given the King so great a subject, it represents 
 the piety and ambition which characterized that age of
 
 JOHN Dt CASTRO. 67 
 
 ecclesiastical fervor and imperial power. And you 
 have only to go on to Cintra, along the path \vc are 
 now travelling, to look with admiration on the convent 
 which the King also erected on one of the highest 
 peaks, to mark the spot where he watched for the 
 coming of the fleet which brought him his wealth and 
 power. Vasco de Gama was one of the men who made 
 Portugal great. 
 
 But a little farther on the way stands the Church of 
 IJcmfica, where repose the hones of John de Castro, the 
 liero of a hundred battles, the \'iceroy of India, who 
 was born A.i). 1500, the year after Vasco de Gama 
 returned from his great voyage, and died at the early 
 age of forty-eight, twenty-four years after the discoverer 
 of India had gone to his rest. Bemfica is a1)<)ut two 
 mik'S from Lisbon, and stands a hamk-t on a hillside, 
 remarkable for its spkn<lid a([ue(hu-t arehes more than 
 250 feet hi^h, an<l its windmills, its orange groves, 
 };ardens, and orelianls. In the mi<lst of a most verdant 
 si)ot stands the church, containing the chapel of the 
 Castros. The church is by no means an imposing 
 building. It is simple and unpretentious externally ; 
 but the interior is a fit resting-place for the great 
 hero. It is one of the three buildings with which the 
 name of John de Castro is intimately connected, and 
 represents the different i)hases of his extraordinary 
 character. After an early career of heroism, he 
 sought rei)ose in Pena \'erde at Cintra, where, with 
 agriculture and literature, he passed a few years of 
 leisure and culture before .setting forth on his great ex- 
 peditions. Here he practised the most rigid economy, — 
 living in the humblest apartment, refusing all com- 
 pensation for his .services, asking only as a reward that
 
 08 A yy.AU IN r(;RTI]f}AL. 
 
 a rock, oil which stood six trees, slioiild he annexed to 
 the esl.'ite. Here lie exercised that extnujrdiiuiry con- 
 tciii])! of wealtli, wliich he disphiyed in life, and of 
 wliich he boasted in tlie liour of his death, by befiueatli- 
 ins; this property to liis descendants, witli the express 
 C(;ndilion of their not deriving pecuniary advantages 
 from its cultivation, saying, that even from the eartli 
 he would accept no reward ft^r his labors. He con- 
 demned this favorite abode to leasehold, and Sir I-'rancis 
 Cook now has it on a lease of ninety years. I)e Castro 
 .seemed to be more j)r<nid of his poverty than of his 
 achievements, and he provided in liis will that his .son 
 should siHud wliate\er recompense he received fioiu 
 the governniciii in the erection of a convent for the 
 I'Van'ciscan reformed, friars (the Recollets). Out of 
 this came the ecclesia.stical burrow, known now as 
 Cork Convent, abandoned even by the })oor. for whom 
 an impecunious man built it; but pos.ses.sing still, by 
 sj)ecial papal favor, the high privileges of the Church 
 which made it attractive. This C(jnvent and Peiia 
 Verde remain, in memory u{ the great viceroy — one liis 
 abode, and the other the fruit of his pif)us devotion. 
 The modest church, not far away, holds his bones, and, 
 as a mark of respect, was spared when the convents of 
 the kingdcjin were .se(iuestered. 
 
 It is not easy in our day to comprehend a character 
 like John de Castro. Possessed of powers which made 
 him a great warrior and ruler, with the comprehension 
 and capacity of an accomplished nuin of afTairs, familiar 
 with the luxury and state of kings at a time when 
 royalty was the goal which the ambitious .sought as 
 the height of human hap])iness and success, he was 
 obedient to tluit .spirit of j)iety and self-sacrifice which
 
 .lOilN Dl! CASTRO. 69 
 
 bcloniL^cd to Ihc devotees of llie Cliureli, and which 
 made starvation and stripes the fountains of ecstasy and 
 joy. 
 
 He Seems to liave been indifferent to the refmcmctJls 
 of life, and superior to all its comforts and luxuries. 
 The service of an acolyte was as dear to hiin as the 
 accomplishments of a conqueror and ruler. lie did not 
 fight for the Church ; he entered upon no crusade. The 
 service of the Lord gave no strength to his right arm. 
 He fought for empire and power. And when he 
 sheathed his sword, he left the 1 tattle-field and con- 
 (piests behind him, and retired to his s.anctuary and 
 penance. We have known many Christian warriors 
 who fi)ught fin- their fi\ith ; hut he was not one. He 
 fijught like a warrior, and he prayed like a parson ; but 
 he never mingled the two characters together, nor did 
 he call in either in aid of the other. He was not a 
 refi)rmer, or an independent ; he w;is a fiiithful sub- 
 ject, and a firm believer. And he was another of the 
 great men of Portugal who l)uilded his house upon the 
 sand. He died and left no idea behind. 
 
 The best .sketch of John dc Castro is given in a quaint 
 volume, written in 1664 by i'Veirede Andrade. andtrans- 
 latc'l into ICnglish by vSt. Peter \V\cke, Kt., whose 
 account is graphic, and whose style is admirably 
 adapted to his subject. He says : 
 
 " Doiii John de Castro, as illustrious fi)r his fiunily 
 as virtues, was born in I^i.sbon the 27th of Fel.>ruary of 
 the year one thousand five hundred : He was .'Second 
 son to I)om Avaro de Castro, Governour of the House 
 of Civil, and to Dona Lconorde Noronha, the daughter 
 of Dom John de Almeyda, .second Ivarl of Abrantes; 
 Grandchild to J)om Garcia de Castro, who was brother
 
 70 A YI:AI<' in I'OlM-lKiAL. 
 
 to Doiii Alvaro de Castro, the first Karl of Monsanto ; 
 these two were sons to Doni Fernando de Castro, 
 grandchildren to Doni Pedro de Castro, and j;reat- 
 Krandcluldren to Doni Alvaro IMnz de Castro, ICarl of 
 Arrogolos, the first Constable of Tortngal, brother to 
 the (jueen Dona Inez, de Castro, wife to Doni Pedro the 
 Crnel. This Constable was son to Doni Pedro rernandej'. 
 de Castro, called (in Castile) the man of Warr, who 
 eoininj.;; into this kin;.;doine bc7;.-in here the Illustrions 
 house of the Cnslros, which halh ])res<jrvc(l itself in so 
 nincli greatness ; Doni Pedro by the male line, de- 
 scended fn^ni the Infante Doni h'ernando, son to King 
 Doni (Garcia i)f Navarre, who marricl D(»na Maria 
 Alvate/, de C.'istro, the only dau^'.hler of the Ivarl 
 Alvaro l''anhe/. Minay.'i, tlw fillli ^;randchild in der.ceiit 
 from Lain Calvo, from whom this fimily derives its 
 lK%^innin;^, Dom John de Castro, when very yonnj^, 
 niarry'd Dona I^eonor Continho, her Consin Oerm;in 
 once remove<l, gn.-ater f(jr her finality than portion, 
 with whom retiring to the Town of Almada, he b\- an 
 antedated old age avoided the ambition of the Court : 
 lie went to serve at Tangier, \vhere he gave the first, 
 but extraordinary proofs of liis courage, though of his 
 actions there we have more from his fame than our 
 knowledge. He returned to Court recalled by the 
 King Dom John the third, ami the Kingdom being 
 too narrow for his Oallantry went to India with Dom 
 Garcia de Noronha : He acc(;mpany'd Dom Ivstevan 
 de Gania in his ex])edition to the month of the Red 
 Sea, and made a journal fjf his voyage, a usefull, and 
 acct'ptable work to Sea-men, On his return to Portugal 
 he retir'd to his country-house at Sintra, recreating 
 himself by Kea<liiig, in his s<ditudes and eni])loyments
 
 JOHN Ul; CASTRO. 71 
 
 always Exemplar>' : He put on his sword again to 
 folU)w the eagles of Charles the ICinperor in the Battail 
 of Tunis, where he raised his name with new Glory ; 
 when this design was over, hiding himself from his 
 own fame, he again retired to Sinlra, knowing how to 
 avoid, not keep himself from employments. 
 
 " Dom John made him Admiral of the Navy of the 
 Coast, a serviee where his Courage was answered hy 
 .Success. I le went last of all to govern India, where by 
 the victories we have related, he .si-cured and ])rought 
 into reputation the State. When the designs of Warr 
 spared him, he in a large Card dcscrih'd all the Coast 
 hetwixt (»oa and Dio marking the I'lals and vShclves, 
 thelleij^^litofthc I'ole in which llu' Citicslye : Ihe depth 
 of water, Aiulioring, and Creeks which form the Ha- 
 vens; the 'J'radc-winds, and Nature of those seas, the 
 force of the Currents, the swiftness of Rivers, disposing 
 the lines in different Tables, all with so minute and ac- 
 curate Geograi)hy as only this work might. seem to make 
 him famous, if he were not so eminently for his great 
 Fortitude. Helook'tthesamein his straights at Home, 
 and prosperity in the ICast, appearing always the same 
 man in diverse fortunes : his ambition was to deserve all 
 Things, and ask nothing. He c<iually did reason and 
 justice to all men, iud)yast in his punishments, but so 
 jiistifiable, that the Coniplainls were more against the 
 Law than Minislur. He was free to his souldiers, spar- 
 ing to his Children, slewing more civility in his office, 
 than nature. He us'd with a great deal of Ceremony 
 the actions of his i)redecessors, honoring even those he 
 ])Ut not in practice; without ])rostituting his Civility, 
 he ])reser\'ed his Kes]X( I. I le ai)peared above the great 
 ones, and I'ather of the meanest : .such was his life, an
 
 72 A VI:aK in rr^RTUGAL. 
 
 by that, more tliriii In- punislimenLs. lie reformM ex- 
 travaj^ancies : liis first zeal was always in God's 
 cause, llicn in the state's ; lie past no virtue without 
 rewaril, some vices without punishment : amendin;^ not 
 a few. some hy f ivors, others hy Clemency. The pres- 
 ents he received from tlie Princes of Asia he put to the 
 King's revenue, a \'irlue rdl ])r.-us'd, few imitated : the 
 ni:iiiu'd souldiers found liim Sollieitous in tlieir cure and 
 Com])asMionate of tlicir condition : lie (;l)li:^ed every 
 one, yet seemed obnoxious to all : lie kept the soul- 
 diers (as what would jjrove the Ruine of tlie Stale; from 
 nierchandi/.inj; : ]Ie set upon no action, whicli he did 
 notatchie\e, being re:idy in I-'xecution, malure in Coun- 
 cil ; amidst the employments (;f a Souldier, he ])reserved 
 the virtues of a Religious man, was frequent in visiting 
 Temples, a great honoUrerof Churdi-men, mercifull and 
 liberal to the Poor ; had great devotion to the Cross of 
 Christ, whicli he re\erenced in its I'igure, l^y a low in- 
 clination witliout any difference of time or place; and 
 so Religiously was lie fir'd with the Worship of this most 
 holy representative, as he rather chose to build a temi)!e 
 to its menior\' tlian raise a House to his Posterity, leav- 
 ing it in his P'alherly blessing to his vSon I)om Alvaro, 
 that if he found in the f ivour or justiceof the King, any 
 recompense for his services, he should with that build 
 .1 c'juvent for the I'ranciscan Recollets in the Momitains 
 of vSintra, and name the House The Inv<K:ation of the 
 Holy Cross [iiow Cork Convent in Cinlra], ])om 
 Alvaro de Ca-lro, Heir a])p.irent to the virtues of so 
 pious a Tatlier, gave order fo^ building the Convent, 
 not so great fi>r the Majesty of the Pile, as for the vSanc- 
 tity of the Penitents who Inhal>it there, ]ieing the first 
 time sent from King Dom Sebastian luubassador to
 
 JOHN DE CASTRO. 73 
 
 Pope Pius the Fourth, he obtained of him to priviledge 
 the Altar of the Convent for all Masses, and on the day 
 of the Invention of the Cross, Plenary indulgence to all 
 those \vho i)ray'd for the pressing necessities of the 
 Church, and designedly for the soul of Doni John de 
 Castro ; so singular and luuisnal a grace as we have 
 not known granted to sovereign Princes. It is apparent 
 the Inline of his victories was as lond in Italy as that of 
 his \'irlncs, attested by so illustrious a testimony from 
 the Vitar (»f Clirist ; for these and olher virtues we 
 believe he now enjoys in Heaven nobler Palmes in a 
 more eminent Triumph. lie had three .sons who all 
 exposed themselves to the dangers of Warr, as their 
 Father's blessing ; l)(Mn Miguel the Youngest, who in 
 the Keign of King Dom vSebastian went to the Indies, 
 and Dy'd in the Government of Malaca ; Dom Fernando 
 burnt in the mine at Dio ; Dom Alvaro, with whom he 
 seem'd to share liis Palmes and victories, the son and 
 companion of his fame, who, returning to the kingdom 
 without any other Riches than the Wounds he received 
 in the Warr. married Donna Anna de Attayde, Daughter 
 to Dom Lewis de Castro, Lord of the House of Mon 
 Sanlo : He was a particular Favourite to King Dom 
 Sebastian, entrusted by him in the greatest affairs aud 
 places of the Kingdome, went on diverse Ijnbassies to 
 Castile, I'rance, Rome, & vSa.oy ; was of the Council 
 of vState and sole vSuperintendentof the ICxchequer, and 
 ill the midst of so eminent offices, Died poor, though he 
 Deceast a I'avourite. 
 
 " i;i;atii and jiukiat, ov dom john' dk castro. 
 
 "As soon as the Vice-Roy perceived himself summou'd 
 to a sharper Conflict, avoiding the imi>ortunc diversion
 
 74 A VrAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 of Human Cares, he secluded liimself \\\{\i the Father 
 Saint Francisco Xaverius, providing; for so doublfuU a 
 voyage to secure a Pilol, who all the time of liis sickness 
 was liis Nurse, Reconciler, and Governour. As he had 
 got no riches to make a new Disposal of. he made no other 
 will than that he left (at his coming to govern India) in 
 the Kingdome, in the hands of Dom Rodrigo Pinheiro 
 Bishop of Angra, to whom he had comnuniicated it ; 
 and receiving the .Sacraments of the Church he gave up 
 his soul to God the sixth of June One Thousand five 
 hundred forty-eight, in the eight and fortieth Year of his 
 age, and almost three of his Govenunent of that State. 
 The riches he gained in Asia were his lleroick actions 
 which Posterity will read in this book with tender 
 memory. In his study were found three pieces of small 
 money, and a Discipline which seem'd to ha\e been 
 often us'd, and the locks of his beard he had pawned: 
 He ordered his body should be Deposited in vSaint 
 PVancis Church in Goa, thence to be Translated to his 
 chapel at Cintra : They inunediately consulted on his 
 funeral, which was to be not less compassionate than 
 solemn, deserving the Illustrious and connuou Tears of 
 the whole State. 
 
 "After some years his bc>nes came to the Kingdome, 
 where they were received with reverent and j^ious ap- 
 plause, as being the last benefit his country received 
 with his asli'-.s, ;ind on tlie Shoulders of four of his 
 Grande liildren c-arry'd to Saint Dominicke's Convent in 
 Lisbone, where for m.any days were made cosily ICxe- 
 quies ; thence they were Translated the second time to 
 .Saint Dominicke's Convent at Pemfica, where (though 
 in another's Chapel) they remained some years in a de- 
 cent Depository- , till hisCjrandchild I'ranciscode Castro,
 
 JOHN nn CASTRO. 75 
 
 Bishop aiul Inquisitor General nuule for them a Chapel 
 and place of lUirial ; for Desi-n, Matter, and Adonnnent, 
 but to the King's monuments, not second to any ; the 
 relation of it will not perhaps seem tedious out o'f re- 
 spect to the memory of the Grand-father and piety of the 
 Grand-child." 
 
 Their bones are all tliat remain of these great men. 
 • The seas they explored have become highways for every 
 trader ; the kingdom they enlarged has dwindled away 
 to a mere shadow of the greatness they gave it. What 
 they thought is forgotten, if it was ever known. They 
 fdl a most attractive page in history. Thev belong to 
 the romance of the world. If they had only kft a civil 
 organization in which conventions, and caucuses, and 
 legislatures, and presidential campaigns, and civil- 
 ser^•ice reforms, and free trade, and interstate commerce 
 formed a pnrt, how grateful the modern nations might 
 be to them ;— anything besides a mere bone— some 
 solution of home-rule for l-ngland— some way of dis- 
 posing of political aspirants besides banishment for 
 France— some .security for the l)allot-l)ox to all who 
 have a right to its blessings— some record of a con- 
 stitutional convention— some J/c7jfo:,rr~somc Ply- 
 mouth colony. I5ut now it is merely idle to tell us 
 that heroic (pialities can be remembered for tlieir devo- 
 tion to the age in which tJKy live and labor, and can 
 build a monument to themselves even on Hecting founda- 
 tions—a monument which all the generations (.f men 
 will admire. 
 
 Perhaps wc think more of Washington and Grant 
 than we do of John de Castro— more of Farragut than 
 we do of Vasco de Gama. We have a perfect right to.
 
 76 A YEAR IN TORTL'GAL 
 
 October 26th. — Another royal death and another royal 
 fuiierai. On the Kjth of October the King of Portugal, 
 I/iuis PhiH]5po Marie Ferdinand Pierre d' Alcantara 
 Antoine Michel Rafael Gabriel Gon/.aga Xavier Fran- 
 cois d'Assi^i^ Jean Jules Auguste Vulfande de Braganza 
 Bourbon, known a:uong tlie .-sovereigns of Kuropc as 
 Luis I., the eldest si:r\-iving son of Dona Maria II. da 
 Gloria, Queen of Portugal, and Doni Fernando, Prince 
 of Saxe-Colrarg. died. Yesterday he was buried. The 
 first time I .saw the King was at the reception given at 
 the palace in Cinlra on tlie birthday of Prince AfTonso, 
 and the la>t time I saw him was on my presentation as 
 American Minister, August 29th. at the same palace. 
 On both occasions his extreme illness was manifest. 
 vShorlly after my audience he left Cintra at midnight, 
 probably to avoid observation, and was carried to 
 Ca.scaes, where he died. He was a sailor by educa- 
 tion and experience, and a soldier — as all nionarchs in 
 ]-'uroi)e necessarily are. lie never forgot the .sea nor lost 
 his love f(;r sea-life, was devoted to the navy, and was 
 an active memljer of a yacht club in Lisbon, He turned 
 naturally to Cascaes as his strciijj;th failed, and there, in 
 view of th.it beautifid little bay— very like the bay at 
 Newi>orl— and the .sea beyond, sheltered by the high 
 weather-stained l;astions of the great fortress built by 
 Affonstj \"I. in iGSi, and cojiverted in later years into a 
 summer palace, he passed away, 
 
 Dom Luis I. was born October 31, 1838 ; and on Oc- 
 tober 6. 1S62, he married Maria Pia, the youngest 
 daughter of Victor 1-hnaiuiel, by whom he had two 
 sons: Carlos, 1)orn vSeptember 28. 1S63, who has now- 
 ascended the throne ; and Affon.so, born July 31, 1865. 
 His reign was peaceful and prosperous, and with his
 
 DEATH AND FUNERAL OF THE KING. 77 
 
 encouragement Portugal advanced greatly in industry', 
 education, and wcaltli. He began to rule when Portu- 
 gal was fairly emerging from a long j)eriod of cotifusion 
 and revolt, which had been partially closed by the ami- 
 able wisdom of his father, Dom I'ernando, and the im- 
 perial force of his mother the great Queen Maria II. 
 The Braganzas had not l)een distinguished for quiet 
 and i)eaceful reigns. They had restored the power of 
 Portugal, as I have stated, in 1640, had driven out 
 the Spaniards, had spent enormous treasures, had 
 expelled the Jesuits, had fled to Brazil, had accepted a 
 charter and a constitution, had spent thirteen years, 
 from 1S21 to 1834, in a family fight for the throne, had 
 seen more than a dozen uprisings, and had brought the 
 kingdom through fire and sword and capital pun- 
 ishments and tortures and great energy to a st.ige of 
 exhaustion and to a constitution as the last resort and 
 a way to prosperity. When Dom Fernando came down 
 from vSaxe-Coburg and married the Queen he seems to 
 have brought witli him an element (jf German prudence 
 and self-possession wliicli cooled tlie ardor and steadied 
 the ])in pose of tlie Bragan/.a blood. The Queen reigned 
 nineteen years, from 1S34 to 1S53. having accepted a 
 modified constitution, having with the aid of vSpain on 
 land and iCngland on the high seas subdued a revolu- 
 tion, and leaving her kingdom to a judicious prince 
 con.sort, who knew enough to resist the temptation of 
 tlie S]>anish throne and to exercise a good influence at 
 home. It was comparatively easy for the young King 
 Dom Luis I. in 186 1 to apply his peculiar faculties to the 
 managementof a kingdom which was beginning toenjoy 
 the luxury of peace and was quite exhausted by intestine 
 strife. For a state of afl"airs like this Dom Luis seems to
 
 78 A YHAR IN rc^RTUGAL 
 
 have been peculiarly aflapted. He jx^ssessed a coiisti- 
 lulif)U not easily (listtirbcd or driven to nervous excite- 
 ment, he had refined and scholarly tastes, he was fond 
 of nnisic, and he had reached a cajiacity for steady 
 contemplation by the subduing influence of a life at 
 sea. lie had a due appreciation of the value of suc- 
 cessful industry, and the jjcaceof mind and heart which 
 goes with it. He sid)dued the last insurrection which 
 threatened his kingdom by force of wit and good .sense 
 and not by force of arms ; and when the veteran con- 
 spirator Saldanha threatened a revolt in case his de- 
 mand for a change of ministry Was not comi)lied with, 
 he quietly sul^mitted to the threat, notwith.standing, as 
 it is said, a mild remonstrance from the .spirited and 
 resolute Queen, and .sent thec(mspirator to represent him 
 at the Court of vSt. James. He resisted the last v^jjanish 
 temptation, and rejected the j)roposition of General 
 Prim to bring the entire Iberian ])cninsula under the 
 Braganza rule, fearing, I doubt not, a return to the 
 storms and conflicts of the hou^i:. He s.'uv that the 
 work of restoring Porlu^.il to :iny dej^ree of her ancient 
 grandeur was enough for one mind, and that the glory 
 of even :i partial accomplishment was enough for one 
 reign. And .^^o he devoted himself as a scholar to the 
 I/iterary Congress at Lisbon, and the Arclueolo^ical 
 CoM^'tess ; took an active part in erectitig a .statue to the 
 poet Camoens, and in c<kbralii!g his ciMit<nnial ; and 
 as a bvlicvt r in material d< \elopnunt eiicrMiraj-ed the 
 extensi<»n of r;uln,>ads .and their s<nind org ani/alion an«I 
 efficient e<pupment. He evidently understood his 
 duty as a constitutional king, and maintained a scrupu- 
 lous obser\-ance of all the duties and oblig.ations of 
 such a position, realizing that a king differs from tliQ
 
 DEATH AND TUNnPAL OF TIIL" KING. 79 
 
 people- over whom lie rules only in his greater oppor- 
 tunity and the sacrcdness of his responsibility. 
 
 The influence of Doni Iaus I. during his entire reign 
 has been for tlic development of Portugal and for her 
 advanccTiient to the connncrcial power which her intel- 
 ligent people now desire. That the work he com- 
 menced will 1)c continued by his successor, and .son, 
 there can be no (piestion. The dignified and patriotic 
 manifesto put forth by Dom Carlos I. on his elevation to 
 the throne, combined with his expressions of esteem and 
 respect for his father, indicates a determination to serve 
 his cvmntry in acconlancc with the good example he 
 has before him. At his first reception of the Foreign 
 Ministers at the Ajuda Palace yesterday, I took occasion 
 to assure him of the deep interest the government and 
 the people of the United vStates were taking in his reign 
 just now begun, and their readiness to respond to all 
 measures for the intimate relations of the two nation- 
 alities. To this he resjionded most cordially. He has 
 connnenced his career as niler in early life; his queen 
 has great e(|uabiliiy ;iud good .sense as well as many 
 ch.inus ; and in everything calculated to maintain the 
 peace and jironune the i)rosi)erity of his kingdom I feel 
 assured the people of P(jrtgual are with him. 
 
 Dom I,uis duriiig his long and jiainful illness was 
 attended most carefully ;ind tenderly by the Queen, 
 wlioM- (l(\(.tiou to the (lying nion.arch was untiring. 
 When thr King had «lrawn his last bieath, the Queen 
 rose from lur knees, an<l embracing her .sou Dom Carlos, 
 who .slf)od beside her, said : ' /,<• k'oi est moil : vivc 
 Ic Roi. May you be as j^ood a king as you have been 
 a .sou." The scene was most touching. The body 
 of the King was then embalmed, and preparations were
 
 '*^' A vi:ap I^; i-oi.-n'GA!.. 
 
 nuHle f<;r the finier;.], uliicli was appointed fc;r the 
 followin,^ S..ltinl;.y, k-.n-in;; eight days in wliich special 
 ain1;assadors cotild come t-, represent the sovcreii-ns of 
 Jvurope. 
 
 The funeral <;f the Kin- was verv imposin- He lay 
 in state at Cascaes f..r a feu- days, and was then ])orne 
 to tlie heauliful Igreja c .Mosteiro de Santa Marii de 
 IJcleni, nolfar from Lisbon, t]:e Convent of St. J.ronie 
 It was c.n tin's spot that \'asco de Gania passed tlic 
 ni^ht before his de])artin-e on liis fanions vova<-c of 
 <liscovery, in a small chapel, askin- God's ble'ssin- on 
 li>s penlons nnderlakin- Here arc the tombs of the 
 cln dren of Dom J„ao III., the i^^reatest of all the kin^^s 
 of lurluJ,^■d, whobron^d.t the kingdom to the height 
 ol lis Kl'.ry ; the cenotaph containing the ashes of Dom 
 Sel>astian, asissn].],osed, the unforlnnale vonn- king 
 who perished in Africa with an arn.v of prinei's and 
 
 nobles: tin- lomb..fthe;.reat rar.linal-king.IIcnriqnes- 
 tho^eol I,o„, M:,„o,.I;,n.I his ,,,u<n Dona Maria (he 
 danghtcr of Ferdinand the Calholir. iM-.nn this b-ati- 
 liful and Insloric chnreh t!,e bo<Iv of the King was 
 K.rne to Us fn>al resting-place in St. \'incente in Lis- 
 bon, on vSatnnlay, October 26th, atlenderl bv a Ion- 
 procession of the representatives of many of tiie courts 
 m]-.nrope, the royal funily of Portugal, the ministers 
 of state, the (.nicers of the army and navy. The pro- 
 cession was k-d by a platoon of cavalry. They were 
 followed by si.K heraldic ensigns lu^ring heraldic 
 bamiers ; all the corporations which wished to j(Mn the 
 processi.Hi ; a great mnnber of ladies mourning f ;r the 
 Knig ; carriages of the presidents of the Cortes ; the car- 
 nage of the nuniicipal council of Lisbon ; high officers of 
 theeourt ; the foreign princes who had come to attend the
 
 D!!ATII AM) ri'NIilML ()|- Till; KING, St 
 
 cereinciiy, among whom were the Diikc of Edinburgh, 
 Duke de Monli)ensicr, (fcncriil Voisin, reprc-sciiting 
 President Carnot, General Werfen, representing the 
 Ivmperor of Germany, IVincc Ilohcnzollern, peers of 
 the reahn, and councilhns and ministers of stale. The 
 carriage of King Doni Carhjs I. ; that of the Duke of 
 Oporto, Dom AfTonso ; the carriages of the royal 
 house, in which were sealed the doorkeeper of the 
 royal chamber, gentlemen of the King, aides-de-camp 
 of the military house of the King, the major-domo of 
 the palace, with his insignia of office and the keys of 
 the coffni, followed in the procession. Tlie royal crown 
 was carried on a cushion by an oflTicer of the palace. 
 High rei)resenlatives of the clergy followed, preceding 
 the funer.'d carriage, which was heavily draped in 
 mourning and jjrofusely ornamented with flowers. On 
 each side of this carriage walked six servants of the i)alacc 
 carr\ing torches. The ser\ice of the grand huntsman, 
 the grand e([uerry, the commander of the Royal (iuard, 
 and the Royal Gu.ard, theofilcers and the milit.iry house 
 of the King followed. Leaving lielem at nine o'clock 
 in tlie morning, tlie procession reached St. Vincente de 
 Tora at three, where a large assembly of foreign minis- 
 ters in their tribune, senators, files of erect and sturdy 
 young men from the na\-y, members of the press, and 
 ecclesiastics were in waiting. I think every ICuropean 
 nationality was represented, together with the United 
 States, Japan and China, Brazil, and the Republics 
 of South America. 
 
 At eleven o'clock we drove through the crowded 
 streets filled with a noiseless multitude dressed in black ; 
 even the poorest peasants were in mourning, for Dom 
 Luis h.id been a good king and much beloved. ]C\ery
 
 82 A YIAI' !N \'()\n\H]A\.. 
 
 (lurirttT of ati hour for ci^lit days riiid nij^hts llie great 
 guns on tlie hliip.s on tiic Tagus had hccu firing, as 
 they wore continuously during the procession, making 
 it alu'ost inij)ossib]e to sleep in Lisbon. When ^ve 
 reached the church of Si. \'ineenle \ve eiitered at a 
 side door, and were taken !)>• a priest, dressed in violet, 
 to a reception-room, where we met the nuncio wluj is 
 the head of the diplomatic corps, and who led the pro- 
 cession of foreign ministers as they entered the church 
 with their wives, who in deep mourning occupied the 
 fror.t seat of the tribune. The nuncio wore a violet 
 silk gown with a rochat of most beautiful lace and a 
 large cross of acpia-marine stones set in diamonds. 
 
 The church was hung with gold tapestries edged 
 with black velvet. Three stationary c:;tafal([ues had 
 been erected along the nave, covered with gold and 
 black, on e:icli side of which eight candles, six feet 
 hij^h, burned in golden candlesti ks. The first cata- 
 falque was near the door, and there the coflln was 
 ])laccd wliile a chant was sung. It was then borne 
 to the second, in the centre of the church, at the head 
 of which stood the cardinal in his scarlet robes holding 
 a liigh gilt cross, many archbishtjps and bishops being 
 around him. The cofhn was borne thence to its last 
 resting-place — in the church in fror.t of the high altar. 
 A black velvet pall with a large white satin cross em- 
 broidered with gold was thrown over it, and the crown 
 of the kings of Portugal on a satin cushion was ]daced 
 at the foot. Dom Carlos, the new king, dressed in fidl 
 uniform and covered with jewelled decoraticMis, walked 
 alone at the head of the ])roceSNion. IJehind him came 
 the Duke d'Ao.^ta, Duke de Montpensier, and Dom 
 Afibnso. Every one was in uniform, and the church
 
 DEATH AND FUNHRAL OF TIIF; KING. ^3 
 
 was soon filled with a glittering throng of courtiers 
 and officials. In the royal box sat the widowed queen 
 hidden behind lier long crape veil, through which 
 gleamed the pink satin ribbon of the royal Order of St. 
 Isabel worn across her breast. By her side .sat the 
 Princess Letitia Bonaparte, the Duchess d' Aosta. The 
 King stood through the ser\'ice in front of the box. As 
 the mass progressed numbers of lighted candles were 
 brought in and distributed until nearly every one stand- 
 ing on the floor held one. Their light made the gold 
 hangings and the miiforms brilliant, while high up in 
 the vaulted roof long rays of sunlight were streaming 
 through the oriel window across to the gleaming altar. 
 The effect of the whole scene was wonderfully grand 
 and imposing. At the end of the service the cardinal, 
 followed by all the other high clergy, walked twice 
 around the coffin, swinging U[)on it a great censer, and 
 llicn ])rocee(led to the Pantheon, the royal tomb, the 
 priests chanting, the organ pealing, and heavy salutes 
 of c.innon being fiicd astlicy moved on. The widowed 
 Omen followed the cofiin oJi the arm of Doni Carlos, 
 
 'IMie cardinal patriarch olhciated, and at the close of 
 the high mass pronounced a short eulogy on the char- 
 acter of the King. Acc(;m])anied by funeral chants by 
 the choir of the royal chai)el, the body was borne 
 into the Pantlieon to rest with the long line of Bragau- 
 za kings entombed there. By the terms of the royal 
 decree, the grand marshal of the palace, before deliver- 
 ing to the cardinal the mortal remains, took the oath 
 re<inired by law that tlie body was that of His Majesty 
 Dom Luis I. I le presided at the ceremony of interment, 
 and kept a key of the cofTin, which, with a copy of the 
 prods Tt'iixil, is to be deposited in the archix'es of the
 
 84 A YHAK IN I'ORTUGAL, 
 
 Pantlieoii. All the high personages present signed 
 the prods verbal, and a dnplicate kcj' was given to tlie 
 cardinal. Amidst heavy salvos of artillery the body 
 was deposited in its last resti!ig-})lace, and the apart- 
 ment of the royal dead was closed. 
 
 I li:i\e spoken often of the commanding position Por- 
 tugal held among the nations of the earth in her days 
 of great colonial possessions and vast commerce, long 
 before the wealth and j^ouer of our own day were even 
 founded. But during the last century she has held as 
 imj)ortant a positi(ni in the ])oIilical world as she for- 
 merly heM in tlie world of exploration and connnerce. 
 The contests between f:eed(jm and right, between 
 im])eria]i--m and constitutional independence, were con- 
 stant and sewre on Ikt soil. The rigor of arbitrary 
 rule and the license of revolution were displayed in 
 Portugal witli almost as uukIi cruelly and strength as 
 in h'rantr. Unman life and human conscienc-e counted 
 f(jr little. She was the field, moreover, on which Napo- 
 leon was met Ity that force wliich ultinrately destroyed 
 his empire, and Portugal was almost as fatal to him as 
 Russia. I'ortlic i)reservation of her integrity pjigland 
 acc(jmplislied some of the greatest achievements on 
 land and sea, and manifested the parental as well as 
 the imperial power when she sent Sir Charles Stuart to 
 represent, in the factious councils of Portugal, the practi- 
 cal wisdom of herownstatesn;(.n. The normal condition 
 of this little kingdom was one of revolutionary conflicts 
 from the close of the IVninsular war to the death of 
 Maria J I., a ])eriod of nearly forty years. The peace 
 which has followed is dxMi, as I have said, to the 
 good .'^ense of Dom l-Vrnando as regent, and still later 
 for a quarter of a century to the admiral)le qualities 
 of the King wlio has just died.
 
 PORTUGL'l-Sl: INUL'STKV. 8$ 
 
 It is evident to those \vho carefully obsen'e her 
 course at the present time that the energy and enter- 
 prise of Portugal ore as ready to assert themselves now 
 as they have been in limes jiast. She counts her claims 
 and enlLTprises in Snuth Africa and makes her observa- 
 tions along the coast of Congo. vSlie is grt)\ving watch- 
 ful of her connnercial relations. Not yet recovered 
 from the financial jirostration into which extravagant 
 monarchs and exhausting wars have thrown her, her 
 taxation is organized more for revenue than for its 
 effect \ipou her industries. IJut of her resources there 
 can be no doubt. Already the work of renovating a 
 worn-out soil, one of the great pr(»])lcms (if agriculture, 
 lias been pr()fita])ly conducted on areas whic-h were 
 tilled in the days of the Romans and the Moors. The 
 j^rofits of well-conduited manufactures ha\e already 
 been (hnionstrated. In an article ])ublished in the j or- 
 val do Coiiniiorio of I,isbou ui>on the address I made to 
 the King on m\- presentation I find the following com- 
 ments : 
 
 " From the discourse which the Minister Resident of 
 the I'niied States of America pronounced on delivering 
 his credentials, which accredited him to this court, 
 We take tlie following ])assages. to which we attach the 
 greatest importance at the present lime ; and which 
 ])ro\e how deeply the government of that flourishing 
 state desires and takes interest in tlie encouragement of 
 agricultiire : 
 
 " ' In his comnumication to my faithful and distin- 
 guislied predecessor announeing m\' appointment to 
 the ]M)st which he has so honorably fdled, the {secretary 
 of vState informed liim that I have held an important 
 ofTicial relation to tlie agriculture of the I'nited vStates 
 as Commissioner. In this service I ha\e learned the
 
 86 A YHAR IN' rOPTIJGAL 
 
 value of national industries to the ^\•elfare of the state, 
 and I trust I may ])e allowed to observe and investigate 
 the methods by •which Your Majesty's people preser\'e 
 and develop that occupation Avhich is the fundamental 
 callin;^ of all nations, the central pillar in that social 
 system of which connnerce and manufactures are the 
 associates, and which hind all peoples together in a 
 connnon ])rotherhood.' 
 
 "The discourse of the Minister, abandoning the nar- 
 row limits of a mere exchange of compliments to which 
 such discourses have usually been restricted, presented 
 the ])rogramme of his mission, which appears to have 
 for its object a s])cci.'d study of our agriculture and 
 industry. 
 
 " We hail with cntliusiasm :uid faith tlie new Ameri- 
 can Miiii:^ler, who during some years (U-dicnted himself 
 to the study and analysis of the manifold (jUkstions of 
 agriculture, upon which, lie made an important report, 
 which served to enlighten his govennnent and led to 
 the adoption of measures leading to the development 
 of agricultural industry. 
 
 "At the ])resent time, when agrarian questions so 
 greatly f)ccupy the gf)venunents of all I-'uropean nations, 
 it is truly agreeable to record that the choice <:)f the new 
 Minister of the I'nited States should have fallen upon 
 a gentleman possessing such excellent (jualifications. 
 
 "To develop our conuuercial relations with the 
 United vStates is a mission which long since should 
 have attracted the attention of our government, for the 
 purpose of drawing to our ])ort the i>resence of North 
 American shipping, which would confer npc)u us such 
 great benefits 
 
 " The enormous and un2)aralleled progress which this
 
 K)KTiJGiirsi; inijustry. 87 
 
 nation has attained plainly demonstrates not only its 
 great and expanded commercial, indusLrial, and agricul- 
 tural development, but as well in its monetary resources, 
 which reacts and is powerfully felt in the markets of 
 ICurope. Our country from its geographical position 
 sliotdd be prepared in every way to become \.\\q Cfi/rr/)ot 
 of inter-oceanic conununication ; and therefore our re- 
 lations with the I'nited vStates should be strengthened 
 and made closer in all respects. The great expansion 
 of the industry of North America renders home cim- 
 sumption inefficient for the great production; and 
 hence the exportations of products demand the greatest 
 care from the government of so i)rosi>erous a nation- 
 ality. Tlie i)ort of Li>bon is the nearest station from 
 the American c(»ntinenl, and if in it the commerce of 
 the United Slates should meet with facilities it wtmld 
 certainly lead to the establishment of an cuircpoi or 
 warehonse for the dei)osits of their manufactures des- 
 tined for the Ivuropean markets. 
 
 " We are enthusiastic partners of mercantile develo^v 
 ment. so that agriculture and industry may prosper; 
 and in the prosecution of our progranune we have 
 always the greatest satisfaction when we see new advo- 
 cates i)resent themselves who concur in encouraging 
 commerce. 
 
 " We are convinced that the treaty of commerce with 
 the United vSlates will bring great advantages to our 
 country, not only by reciprocal exchanges of agricul- 
 tural productions, but because a great luimber of manu- 
 factured articles would meet in this conntn," with ready 
 sale. 
 
 "Ac i)resent the Minister who made so favorable a 
 presentation will meet with an obstacle in carrying out
 
 8S A YF.AR IN l-ORTUGAL. 
 
 his mission — that is, the coercive regulations as regards 
 the importation of \vheat which were enacted mainly 
 in reference to tlie American jnarket. This obstacle, 
 which originated before the arrival of the worthy diplo- 
 mat, will certainly not lead him to cool the enthusiasm 
 which our country created within hitn, where he will 
 fiU'l the most ccMclial greeting in tlie discharge of his 
 high duties by the s>'iiii);ithy nnd friendship whicli o\ir 
 people accord to the formidable atliletes (>[ the Democ- 
 racy and of material pn*gress." 
 
 Portugal ])ossesses many advantages for industrial 
 enteri)rises. Her climate is mild through(nit the year. 
 A large j)orlif»n of her soil is cajiable of cullivaliou ; 
 and the cuUivatots are a hatd\', iiuliistriotis, and tem- 
 j)erale jteople. The harbor f)f J^isbon is unefjualled on 
 the ];uro[)eaii coa>t of the Atlantic for its spaciousness 
 and safety, and is api)roachable at all seasons witliout 
 exposure to the se\ere gales, the ice, and the fogs of the 
 iiortliern Atlantic I,isb(;n is connected now with the 
 interior of Spain b\- a well-organized railroad arrangc- 
 jnent, and thenee to I'rance and the north of Italv. 
 Conunerce toniid from the Mediterranean can centre at 
 this I)ort ; and Mediterranean commerce now means 
 the way o])ened by the Suez Canal to the great markets 
 of the Ivist, The c'lruinels f»f trade Uiay not as yet lie 
 in this direction ; but tlie time is coming, as I finnly 
 believe, when Xew York will be the centre of exchange, 
 and the necessity of shi])j)ing by the way of Ilatuburg 
 and I/tndoii will cease. The future of I,isi;oii should 
 be, and uudotd/tedly will be, as great as its jiast ; and 
 th;it the commercial and fiiiaiKial ])ower of the world 
 will lie on the Americ.-in continent, who can doubt?
 
 CHAPTHR V. 
 
 Toi^Ri:s vihRAs. iu;Mi"K:A.-Ai.c:onACA. 
 
 October 2(jth. — In going nortli from Lisbon it is not 
 the chnrchcs and palaces and c(Mivents alone which 
 attract the attention. The rounded hills crosvned with 
 windmills, the valleys clothed with corn, the grazing 
 flocks and herds, the glimpses of the sea which dances 
 and sparkles along this coast as if the sea-nymjihs dwelt 
 here and as if Neptune had selected these waters for 
 his high court, make up a view of constant ami varied 
 beauty, and reconcile the traveller to the deliberate 
 progress of the Portuguese railway. Often at this time 
 of the year the passenger will fnul an entire compart- 
 ment to himself in which seven of the "eight asscnios'' 
 are unoccupied, where he cati lounge and look and 
 think without being molested by the smokers of cigar- 
 ettes. The landscape is not very lively, burnt brown 
 as it is by the nununer's sun, nor arc the hedgerows 
 and gardens and copses very nuisical, ubai\doned as 
 they are by every singing-bird, if they ever had any. 
 The newsboys at the stations sound their four notes 
 and a nnisical octave to tell you that they have the 
 morning jonrn.d, and llie water-carriers suing their 
 ftiKifrs and cry water wilh a final qi<^ worthy of the 
 rich man who called for water to cool his tongue. 
 There is a good dc;d of Tortuguese language sent forth 
 
 8<>
 
 90 A YEAR IN rORTUGAL. 
 
 with successive explosions at these stations by those in 
 the busy walks of life, who are unir.iudful of the fine 
 modulations of which the lani;uaj;e is capable. There 
 is a strange sort of animal vig<^r in the midst of the 
 natural rcjxxse. Things are done and said with a 
 will and an enurgy which seem wholly unnecessary 
 luider the" circumstances. JCven the donkeys bray with 
 a vocal force unknown to more high-toned and dignifiecl 
 domestic animals. All this is attractive for a time, ])ut 
 the sameness of the landscape, and the stillness of the 
 air, and the monotony of tongues, and the loneliness 
 and sechisioM of tlic comi>Mrtmenl bring on a refhclis'e 
 mood, in which the e\(iil^> wronj-ht ont, and tlie <K'sijMis 
 laid, and the llioiiglits evolved along this sliore become 
 more interesting and important than the shore itself. 
 
 After lea\ing the sacred ])recincts of iJemfica and the 
 stately arches of the afpieduct, of which you no more 
 tire than you do of the everlasting hills, the green earth- 
 works remind you that you are on that line along which 
 the Duke of Wellington constructed the fortifications 
 which enabled him to drive the French from Portugal. 
 The linesof Torres \'edras are as famous in the history 
 of war on the ])eninsula as the convention of Cititra is 
 in the histoiy of ])eaee. I h.a\e alwa>"s had a great ad- 
 miration for the Duke of Wellington — as who has not? 
 I saw him once in the House of Dords, stately, old. and 
 silent, but he seemed to rise superior to I'.rougham and 
 Stanley and Russell an<l the rest, ])artl)' because he bore 
 a more commanding jirescnci-, and partly, I suppose, 
 because he was the eoiiiparor at Watci loo, and more 
 becruise he could look back on >ur]\ a tremendous life 
 — tremenclous is the only wfnd which describes that 
 life. 1 have alwavs been sorr\- that thev removed his
 
 TORRFS VliDRAS.-BUMnCA.-ALCOBACA. 91 
 
 equestrian statue at Hyde Park, for it was the Iron 
 Duke on a thoroughbred. I always Hked the way in 
 which he told a flatterer not to " make a damned fool 
 of himself" I think the grim chuckle with which he 
 pointed an applauding cn^wd U) the iron shutters on 
 his jtalacc-, put there after a mob had threatened its 
 destruction,— i)ointed, too, with the handle of his riding- 
 whip, as he rode through the cheering nniltitude, — is 
 one of the best j)ictures of lofty scorn on record. The 
 gentle affection he manifested towards the }-oung (jueen 
 at her inauguration, the war woin veteran that he was, 
 whom ir<.)n alone could l> pif> , aKva\s brought tears to 
 my e\«.'S, as a ])iilure of Jingli.sh loyalty and jtride and 
 jiarenlal solicitude ar.d lnve. When he said he had no 
 talk and ralmerston had no manners, and when he 
 objected to Napoleon because he was no gentleman, he 
 somehow won m\' admiration. lUit when I passed my 
 eye along the hill-tojis that lead from Lisbon to Torres 
 \'edras, in sight of that ostentatious and imposing 
 monument of kingly pride and extravagance at Mafra, 
 making a horizon from the heights of Cintra, and 
 remembered that here a.s a young man, .so young that 
 an incompetent senior oHicer ,super^ede<l him on the field 
 of battle, I nutst confess that I admired him more than 
 I did wb.en I traced the furrows of his caiuion-shot at 
 Waterloo and saw his great sword can'ing up the 
 emi)ire Napoleon had built in Continental l-auopc. He 
 was in a great conip;in>', moreover, on these shores and 
 among these hills. The bones of John de Castro might 
 have moved in their sacred tomb where they had re- 
 posed two centuries and a half, and his spirit might 
 have rejoiced in its hiavenly abode, as the footfall of 
 the great warrior was heard on those heights. He had
 
 92 A YtAK IN rORTlJGAL. 
 
 gone forth in his youth to stay the hand of the great 
 cuiKjneror of ICurope, and he halted nt)t until he had 
 accomplished Iiis mission at Waterloo ; and this was 
 the spot where his work began. 
 
 Torres Vedras was fortified as silently as was Jhinker 
 Hill. Ik-fore iCurope was aware of it, a hundred and 
 fifty forts, redoubts, atid batteries, extending along the 
 liills a distance of forty miles, had been constructed. 
 The details of the woik were complete — perfect for its 
 inte:ition. " I'or the militia there are nearly inattacka- 
 bkr po>ts to guard tlie passes ; f )rlhe infantry, admirable 
 fields of battle suited to ensure and pn)fit by victory ; 
 for the cavalr}', spaciotis plains to which the enemy 
 nuist curi\-e thr(nii;h ])asses rendered impracticable to 
 their cavalry and artilkTy." »So said a l.'rave and 
 skilful commander. ]hit Wellington fought as well as 
 fortified. In August, iSoS, he fought at Rolica and 
 cut off the connnrniii.-ation of the hVench army with 
 Li.sbon. He accf)mplished his funous ])assage o( the 
 Douro an<l drove »Soult from C)porto. He fought Xey 
 and Junot at I'.usaco ; and drove the l-'rcnch out of 
 Portugal. Of course I make this story short. The 
 events, lio\vvv<.r, ha\e ma<le the ground <»ver which we 
 are lra\-elling histoiic, and have ser\'ed as a theatre on 
 which J'.nglish valor has dis])layed its most lu-roie 
 (qualities. Here Wellington connnenrcd liis great c-a- 
 reer of succ-ess which gave Ivn gland the mastery of 
 I'hirope, and on this c«)ast Sir John Moore won his 
 inunortality, and inspired the h'nglish iK)et who sang 
 for him the sweetest rcfjuiem known to the sweetest of 
 all languages. 
 
 P>nt long before you reach Corunna and the heights 
 of Jilvira, where >Sir John Moore f*jll, you arrive at
 
 TORRUS VEDRAS.-BEMFICA.-ALCOBAgA. 9^ 
 
 Oporto, where Wellington, two years before he fortified 
 Torres Vedras and four months after the death of 
 Moore, performed his first great act in driving the 
 French from the Iberian peninsula. It was on the 
 1 2th of May, iSoj, that Wellington reached the south 
 bank of the Douro, and, looking from the precipitous 
 rocky hill, past whose base the river flows, saw Soult 
 occupying the opposite bank and having destroyed all 
 means of communication across the stream. On his 
 way from Coimbra, in connnand of fourteen tliousand 
 men, he had succeeded in (lri\ing the French into the 
 city, and had compelled the great marshal to mass all 
 his troops on the northerly side of the stream. Across 
 that deep and rapid current he discovered the oi>p<ir- 
 tunity afforded him by the Seminario, an unfinished 
 building on the high bank, with a lofly stone wall en- 
 closing space enough fur a strong body of soldiers. A 
 boat to cross the stream and a concealed battery on the 
 Sen'a. enabled him to embark his trooi)S aiitl to occupy 
 the vSeminario before the French had discovered his 
 movement, and had rallied to that fierce attack so 
 famous in that cami)aign. The I'.nglish battery com- 
 manded all ai)])roach to the hill ; the peoi)le of the 
 town rallied to transi)ort thvir deliverers across the 
 river; the I'rench retired before the sturdy work of the 
 I'higlish troops and the well-devised movement of the 
 iCnglish commander. Oporto was relieved ; vSoidl's 
 army was in full retreat ; and but for the apathy of the 
 German troops luxler General Murray woidd have been 
 completely de..tro>ed. It was here that the I'rench 
 learned that (pi.dity of the ICnglish soldier which 
 secured the great victory at Waterloo. 
 
 In his campaigns along tlie Atlantic coast of Portugal
 
 94 A YEAR IX l'(iKTL'GAL. 
 
 Wellington occupied ground already famous for military' 
 acliicvcnients and for fierce conflicts even in tlie olden 
 times. Tlie railway carries you through a constant 
 succession of historic towns. At Alemquer, hut a few 
 miles on the way, still stand the nuns of the strongest 
 fortress Iniilt by the Moors in Portugal, captured, in 
 114S, by Affonso Ilenricjues, the proclaimed King of 
 Portugal, the deliverer of Lis]>on from the Moors, the 
 founder of the i)'nver of the kingdom. It was at 
 Santarem that the aged Affonso IIenri([ues rallied his 
 army in aid of his .son, I)'>m vSanclio, in his final victory 
 over the Mcjors. At Coimbra, the first capital of the 
 monarchy, Rodrigo de P.ivar, the celebrated Cid, in 
 1064 vancjuished the Moors and expelled them forever 
 from the town ; and here, a lunidred and twenty years 
 later, AlTonso llenricpies held a council of his warriors 
 and organized his expedition against Santarem. When 
 I consider the history of tliis little slrij) of sea-coast I 
 am not sure that it has received credit enough for the 
 example it has set of resistance to usurpers, of devotion 
 to the best government within its reach, of valor on the 
 field, of power in council, of enterprise on sea and land, 
 and of culture (jf the Inunan mind and the inspiration 
 of heroic endeavor. 
 
 I'rom the earliest ])eriod of Portuguese history until 
 our own generation Oporto has been the seat of ci\'il 
 and militar}' contests, and has .secured to itself the title 
 of tlie IlncoiKjuered City. P'or nearly two centuries it 
 rcmainerl utterly annihilated by war — from <S2o to icxx). 
 Rebuilt at that time l;y the P'rench it took the ])art of 
 Dom AlTonso in his war with Dom Dini/, ; its inhabi- 
 tants, men aiul woiiun, struck against a tax im])oscd, in 
 1628, <jn linen and woollen nianufactun-s ; against a tax
 
 TORRES VEDRAS-BEMFICA. ALCOBA^A. 95 
 
 on stamped paper they struck again in 1661 ; theyrose 
 in insurrection in 1756 against the wine monopoly of 
 P()inl>al and sulTcrcd executions on the scaiTold and 
 confiscation for their efforts; in 1807 they rose against 
 the French yoke ; in 1S20 they i)roclaiined the consti- 
 tution ; in 1842 tl ley repkiced the charter ; iniS46thcy 
 replaced the constitution ; in 1832 they sheltered Doni 
 Pedro with his army of seven thousand five hundred 
 men, when he was besieged by Dom Miguel unsuccess- 
 fully ; and after the defeat of Doni Miguel they sent 
 forth the Conde de Villa Flor on his excursion to 
 Algarve and thence to Lisbon, defeating Telles Jardao 
 and breaking up the Miguelites there ; they witnessed 
 the defeat of IJourniont and the collapse of the pretender 
 and claimant ; and they rejoiced in the coronatiou of 
 Maria Gloria as (pieen. 
 
 On the route from Lisbon north lies Aljubarn)la, a 
 baltle-groiuul never to be forgotten or overlooked in a 
 sur\-ey of Portugal. It is a little town lying almost 
 under the .shadow of the best ecclesiastical architecture 
 in Portugal. Here was decided the independence of 
 this kingdom. In 13S3 Dom PVniando L died and left 
 no legitimate heir to the throne, his daughter, Dona 
 Ikites, having married Don Juan L of Castile. The 
 Cortes at Coimbra undertook to estal)lish a succession 
 in the ])erson of the Master of Avi/., an illegitimate son 
 of Pom Pedro L This opportiuiity for conquest was 
 not lost upon the King of Castile, who, gathering liis 
 army, marched upon Lisbon, to be followed by the Mas- 
 ter of Avis, now known as Dom Joao L of Portugal. 
 The son of his father fell upon the vSpanish army witli 
 great fury and routed them horse, foot, and dragoons. 
 The victory was complete. The standard of Castile
 
 96 A YfiAR IN TOI'TUGAL. 
 
 was t:ik<,:n, aii'l tlic Cistiliau Dun Jtian ikd on liur.se- 
 ]yuk to his (luarlers at Saiitarein. His entire outfit, 
 such as a Castilian hiii;^ in all liis ^;lory would jjrovi'lc, 
 fe-ll into th'-' liands of the h.islanl.-includin^^ a silver 
 triixxl for the altar, a large liible. liehnets and swords, 
 and the pelote of I>on Juan. The victory was attrib- 
 uted to St. Ik-rnard, and the independence of Portugal 
 was esta]:)lished. 
 
 I suppose battles and Ixittle-fields are not the uiost 
 interesting objects for a traveller's record, and yet they 
 will not be passed over, nor will their heroes be ueg- 
 lecled. They furnish the background of the great 
 panorama of civilization ; and they mark the ways 
 mankind has travelled in the construction of .social and 
 civil organization. "The battle of Waterloo swung 
 back tlie progress of ]Curope for ten generations," said 
 the great iCnglish divine. The battle of Ihmk.i Hill 
 gave vital force to an ui)rising republic. The battle of 
 Octty^biug confirmed the strcnglli of a nation. We 
 .survey the fields where these things were acconi])lished 
 — not those alone where the heroes fell and monuments 
 are erected. 
 
 But why .shouM I ff^rget the naval engagements in 
 tlie waters which wash the coast from Corunna to Gib- 
 raltar—the great ICnglish victories,-— which did so nuich 
 to control the politics of lvuroi)e : that of Kodney, who 
 destroyed the vSi)anish fleet in 17.S0; that of Nelson, 
 who broke the jxnver of hVance at Trafalgar ; and that 
 of Sir Charles Napier, who destroyed the fleet of Doni 
 Miguel and placed Dona Maria Gloria on the throne 
 of Portugal. 
 
 Northern Portugal has always been distinguished for 
 its great ecclesiastical buildings — churches, convents,
 
 TORRES VHDRAS. SHMFICA-ALCOBAQA. 97 
 
 monasteries. Its ancient buildings have been largely 
 (leslroye'l -Diose great religi<ius foundations for which 
 wars were carried on and in the construction of which 
 vast wealth was lavished. Tliere arc many mutilated 
 remains, but few perfect buildings. The glory, too, is 
 g(Mie. Tlie cloisters are deserted, the cells abandoned, 
 the chajKds arc idle, the arches no longer re-echo to the 
 music of the mass or to the solemn responses of the 
 assembled ecclesiastics. 
 
 This heroic section of Portugal is also one of the most 
 thrifty. The Douro region is known for the fertility of 
 its soil, the luxuriance of its pastures, the value of its 
 crops, the size of its cattle, and generally for the sturdy 
 development of its men and the beauty of its women. 
 It seems as if the glow of the Celts, the vigor of the 
 Saracens, the finely chiselled features of the Moors, the 
 vivacity of the bVencli, and the solemnity of the Jews 
 had all combined to make up this remarkable people, 
 the best of whom are at the north. It is from this 
 region and beyond to the IJay of 15iscay that the most 
 erec-t and gracefid and tidy of the girls who carry great 
 burdens on their heads come to Lislx)!!. If you ask a 
 landowner where his farm is situated, he will reply 
 proudly, "On the Douro" ; meekly if south of the 
 Tagus. The great river that waters this regiini is rich 
 in all that makes a river valuable : good water power, 
 good fishing, most delici(nis water for drinking, most 
 delectable for washing. The people along its banks arc 
 well developed, and evidently well fed. They live in a 
 charming country where hill and valley arc well 
 balanced and arc luxuriantly clad with verdure. The 
 landscape resembles the inimitable beauty of the tree- 
 crowned hills and green valleys of Vcnuont iu mid-
 
 98 A VliAI-' IN lOimiCM.. 
 
 suinincr, without the gorgeous and flaming coloring of 
 autumnal forests. It is easy to account for the power 
 and independence of a ]x-oi)le borti on a soil like this. 
 It is easy also to account for their fon<lness for comf(;rt- 
 able homes aufl good apparel. The peasantry who are 
 in good circumstances ])ossess a most picturesque ward- 
 robe — picture>-qnc for Portugal even, where the dyed 
 colors arc most ])enutiful — from the handkercliiefs worn 
 on the head to the bodice and the border of the skirt. 
 Their gohl ornaments are of the most graceful and 
 artistically wrought patterns, and are worn in great 
 profusion. The people are temperate and peaceable 
 and apparently cheerful. Careworn faces and mournful 
 voices are not often met with. Their dances are fre- 
 quent and long continued, aiid their singing is sweet 
 and natural as a bird's. They are as courteous and 
 civil as the best classes in what is consick-red the best 
 .society, and more reverenli.d than many persons who 
 are brought up in what claims to ])e an especially rev- 
 erential class in a commiuiity. 
 
 I ha\'e no doubt that the influence of the dismantled 
 churches and convents and monasteries still remains 
 among the people of I'ortugal. In the neighborhood 
 of Alcol)aca — in this section which I am now observing 
 — the traditions and memories of the old c<jnvent must 
 remain. It is not many years since the glory of the 
 church at Alcobaya was at its height. The luxurious- 
 ness of tlie table was unsurpassed. The kitchen and 
 the wine cellar were filled with an abundance and 
 variety of all man could desire to cat and drink. The 
 apartments were gorgeous with Persian carpets, lace- 
 bordered na])kins, ewers and basins of .solid silver. 
 The dining saloon was richly decorated and furnislied,
 
 TORKI;S VIUWAS. I5I:MF!CA. ALa)UA<;A. 99 
 
 and at the dining hour Ii};hlcd ^vith numerous wax 
 tapers in sconces of silver. The menu surpassed that of 
 the Romans — h\mpreys, edible l)ird's-nesls, most delicate 
 I)reparations of pf)rk and veal and poultry. The wines 
 were most delicate, richly made, atid ripened to perfe*c- 
 tion. The incense of aromatic woods through the hall 
 attended the feast. The banqueting-room is now closed, 
 the silver scattered, the luxury and religion of Alcoba^a 
 are all over. 
 
 The monastery was commenced in 1148 and fmished 
 in 1272. The nine hundred aiul ninety-nine monks in- 
 habiting it were divided into three deaneries, so succeed- 
 ing each other that jiraise never ceased under that roof. 
 The A])bot held the rank of an archbishop. The endow- 
 ment of the monastery was grer.t. The tombs of kings 
 and queensburied there still retuain. Among them the 
 mausoleum of Dom I'edro and Ine/.de Castro stands con- 
 spicuous for its beauty and the sad tragedy it commem- 
 orates. The .story of Inez de Castro cannot be told to 
 often. Thedaughter of a Spanish nobleman who had fled 
 for .safety to the court of Dom Afibnso I\'. she was wooed 
 and won by the infante Dom Tedro, who privately 
 married her. Her position at court attracted her coun- 
 trymen, who gathered around her for that security they 
 could not find at home. The courtiers of A ffonso became 
 jeahms of the v'^paniards, an<l criielly demanded the 
 death of Inez. During the absence of Dom Pedro, the 
 . King with three of his knights visited her at her qiiiuta, 
 and, while he was moved to pity by her prayers and 
 tears, his companions fell upon her and murdered her 
 almost before his eyes. Dom Pedro on his return was 
 driven to madness. He took up arms again.st his 
 father, laid waste the whole of Minho, and two of the
 
 1(X) A YI:AK in I'DRTIJGAL. 
 
 murderers liaviiij^' been captured were tortured to death. 
 Inez de Cnstro was entombed to await the time when 
 Dom Pedro had wrei:ked liis vengeance and proved the 
 reahty of his private marriage. Her body was then 
 raised from the tomb and crowned Queen of Portugal 
 and the Algar\-es. Her story lias passed itito the litera- 
 ture of tlie world, while the sculptured efTigies of herself 
 and her lover and husband lie so arranged that at the 
 resurrection the first object that shall meet their eyes 
 will be the beloved forms of each other. The great 
 historic i)ile of Alcftbava is ])rought home to our hearts 
 by the tomb of I)(;m Pedro and Inez de Castro, 
 
 The art at Alcobaya is small. A portrait (;f Thoma.s 
 iiP>ecket and numenms inscriptions to the memory of 
 the knights slain in the battle of Aljui)arnAa constitute 
 all there is u( it. 
 
 Not fir awa>-, o\er a rough road terminating in a 
 wide i»lain, is Hatalha, where was fought the great bat- 
 tle, and where, high above this level surface, stands the 
 great church with its compact accumulation of but- 
 tresses and pinnacles so closely joined that the Ix-auty of 
 each individual spire and pinnacle is almost lost. The 
 endowment of Batalha was small ; now it stands idle, 
 one of the numerous wasted investments of Portugal in 
 her daj-s of wealth and power. The memor}' of Pom- 
 bal's murderous decree at Batalha against the Duke of 
 Aveiro on a suspicion of conspiracy, and the cruel death 
 of the duke and duchess with their friends and fol- 
 lowers, with the burning of their bodies and the casting 
 of their ashes into the river, still remain among the 
 horrors of Portugal. Here repose the bodies of I)(;m 
 Joao and his queen Philippa in a chapel of Gothic 
 design renowned for its beauty and grandeur, with their
 
 TORRES VhDRAS.-BUMnCA.' ALCOBACA. 101 
 
 hands clasjK'd as in luarri i};e ceremony. The lotnbs of 
 Dom Keniaiulo, who died in captivity at Fez in 1443; 
 and of tlic infante Dom Joio, Master of the Order of 
 Santiai;o ; and of Dom Duartc, Duke of Vi/.eu ; and 
 of Dom Pedro, Duke of Coiml)ra, who fell in the battle 
 of Alfarrobcira, form a sad monumental group. 
 
 The erection of the church and monaster}' was com- 
 menced in 138S, and comi>leted in 1515. It was erected 
 by Dom John in consequence of a vow made on the 
 field of Alju])arrota, and was dedicated to the order 
 of the Dominicans. Krom the day of its completion 
 until now it lias chalknj^cd the admiration of the 
 world. The design of the building is most elaborate 
 and bewildering. Architects have endeavored in vain 
 to imitate it after the most carefid study ; arclueolo^ists 
 have l)een iniable to decipher its inscriptions. It is a 
 monument to the wealth and piety of its designers, 
 and the great king who caused its erection. Like its 
 ecclesiastical com])anions, it now stands idle and de- 
 .serled — even its economical refectory closed, its chapels 
 silent, its beautiful proportions a dumb liistor}' of the 
 chivalry of the proud centuries in which it was built. 
 It is a relic now, and as such it must remain to the 
 progressive generations that are coming on. 
 
 I shall have more to say hereafter of the wonders of 
 Northern Portuual.
 
 CHAFHiil^ VI. 
 
 COIMBRA.-CAMOl-.NS, DONA TKI.I.KS.— POMBAL. 
 
 November 2<^lh. — " II seems to me l'cMtn>;;il lias seen 
 .1 Ki'^'^'i '1<-''»1 of fi^htinj;," said Mrs. I/)riII^^ as we s.'\l last 
 evening over our good wood fire at the Lawrence in 
 Cintra, looking back over what we had .'^een, and for- 
 ward to what we might .see. " There is no donbt about 
 that," said I; "and it has recjuired a great deal of 
 figliting to keep itself alive. vSul»jugated by the 
 Carthaginians three hundre<l ye;us before Christ ; con- 
 quered ])y the Romans eighty years after; invade<l by 
 the \'andals in the fifth Christian century ; occupied 
 by the Moors in the eighth centtiry ; bestowed upon 
 Count Henriques by Affonso VI. of Castile and 
 Leon, Avith the hand of liis daughter, Theresa, and 
 wrested from the Moors, after great sieges and bloody 
 battles, in the 12th century ; torn by a rebellion of the 
 aristocracy in the middle of the thirteenth centurj- ; 
 conquering the Algarvesat the same time ; riven by the 
 civil war and rebellion of the reii;n of Dini/. ; engaged 
 in the final fight with the Mo(jrs in 1340 ; ravaged l)y 
 the civil war waged by Doin Pedro against the King 
 Affonso IV., who had mur(lere<l his wife ; occupied in 
 the war with Castile, in I37<j; fighting the great battle 
 of Aljnbarrota, in 1.^70; carrying the war into Africa, 
 in the middle of the fifteenth century ; raging in another 
 
 103
 
 COIMBRA. 103 
 
 civil war, in 1438, between the Regent, Dom Pedro, 
 and AlTonso V. ; attempting to take the crown of Cas- 
 tile with the sword, in 1476 ; startled by the great con- 
 spiracy of the nobles against the king towards the 
 close of the fifteenth century ; conducting wars of 
 conquest in India in the early part of the sixteenth 
 century ; mourning over Dom »Sebastian's annihilating 
 defeat in Africa ; busy with the perpetual conflicts in the 
 Castilian usurpation, from 15.S1 to \C^o ; warrijig with 
 vSpain for nearly thirty years for indepeiulenee, from 
 1640; fighting the Dutch in the Atlantic islands, and 
 Brazil, and the Spaniards at the Linhas de IClvas, in 
 165S ; warring with Trance and vSpain a century after- 
 wards ; opening the nineteenth century with her share 
 in the Peninsular wars against Napoleon ; employed 
 from 1S21 to 1S34 in the Miguelite disturbances ; count- 
 ing fourteen revolutions in fifteen years j^recediug 1^51, 
 and engaged in numerous skirmishes which I cannot 
 pt)ssil)ly remember;" — "Let us abandon the battle- 
 grounds for the ])rescnt," said Mrs. Loring, "and turn 
 our attention to the schools." "Schools!" said I; "why, 
 there is but one in Portugal. We will go to Coimbra." 
 Such an autumn or early Avinter morning as can be 
 cK'cui)ied by an excursion like this is not easily found 
 outside of Portugal, — and away from that part of Portu- 
 gal in which we now are. Nearly five months we 
 have been here, most of the time in Cintra, and not a 
 storm have we \et seen; but few showery days, no 
 severe tvdd, no frost. The heat has been slight ; the 
 air has been invigorating ; and this season of the year, 
 which finds the trees bare of leaves in New I'jigland, 
 and the fields frost-bitten and clothed in a winter garb, 
 foUowiiig a season of tempests and long cold storm;:
 
 lO't A VKAK IN rORTUGAL. 
 
 ami gales and destructive seas, is radiant here with 
 beauty. Tlie sky to-day is cloudless; the forests are 
 just tinp^ed with a golden yellow ; the leaves still 
 adorn the trees ; the air has the flavor of May ; the 
 grass has returned to the pastures ; young lambs are 
 playing among the flocks on the hillsides ; and the 
 newly upturne<l earth, which the fanners are jdoughing 
 everywhere, looks like the beginning, and not the 
 close, of the year. Such a day for an excursif>n is not 
 ofteti seen anj'wliere on earth. So we go to Coimbra. 
 Coimbra li<'S in th.it line which I ])ursued when I 
 left Lisbon and followed Tfjrres \'edras and wandered 
 along the historic coast of J'ortugal. It is a lnnidred 
 and Ihirlj'-eij^lit miles frotn Lisbcju, and the njad to it 
 runs through that hist(»rie p.-irt of Portugal to which I 
 have been .so nuich devoted, and through the towns of 
 Santarem, Thomar, and Pombal, on who.se names the 
 student of Portuguese history lingers long. Of course 
 the Romans settled in the valley of the Mondego, the 
 Moors took their place for a .sea.son, and in the early 
 part of the eleventh century the Cid and Fernando the 
 Great fixed there the Castilian rule. Coimbra was 
 once the capital of Portugal, and remained so initil the 
 C«)rles, controlled by the elocinencc of the great lawyer 
 John das Ke;^'ras, elected 1 )om John I. "of good mem- 
 ory "' king, when the seat of go\erniiient was moved to 
 Lisbon. It has its churches and its cathe<lral, its uni- 
 versity, and the buildin;.;s which usually cluster around 
 an institution of learning. It can be explored in a 
 reasonably short -.jmcc of time, if one desires; has a 
 charming situation on the hi^di aiul hilly river bank ; is 
 old andfjuaint and interesting. It has its supply of 
 decrepit beggars usually found in the towns and cities
 
 CCMMBKA. 105 
 
 of Portugal. The oldest inhabitant, who still H\xs on 
 nothing, as he has done for ninety years, has his terri- 
 ble traditions for willing ears. The traffic of the place 
 is of that litnited nature usually found in seats of learn- 
 ing — feeding and lodging jirofcssors and students. It 
 is tile university, tlierefore, which citizens talk most 
 a]K)Ut and travellers visit first — the only university in 
 all Portugal. For Portuguese ]nirp()ses it is doubtless 
 better than Oxford or Cambridge, or Harvard with its 
 theological liberality and its political eccentricity ; but 
 for the outside world it presents but few attractions. 
 As a law school it takes high rtmk and su])plies the 
 kingdom with judges, advocates, and barristers, as well 
 as legislators and councillors. It educates the best of 
 the medical fraternity, enjoys the benefit of fine muse- 
 ums of anatomy and natural history, and has an admi- 
 rable library of sixty thousand volumes to which the 
 suppressed convents of St. Beiito, ySanta Cm/., vSanta 
 Rita, and Gra^a made liberal forced contributions. 
 The capacity and deportment of the students have 
 always held high rank. The course of medicine lasts 
 eight years ; the law six years, five for cjualification for 
 a judgeship, and one additional for the degree of a 
 doctor ; the theological term is six years, is controlled 
 ])y a faculty of seven menil)ers, and is very Ihorouj^h in 
 theological lore with text-books mainly in the Roman 
 lu'lex. The terms begin in autumn and last until the 
 end of May ; examinations continue until the end of 
 July, folhnved by a vacation of tliiee months. About 
 S\<x) is a liberal allowaiuo for the annual expenses, 
 tuition being free. The accurate and sy^tematie educa- 
 tion of the university furnishes Portugal with an ample 
 .sui)ply of accomplished members of all the liberal pro-
 
 106 A Yl:AR IN I'OKTUGAL. 
 
 fcssions, who are lield in high esteem throughout the 
 kingdom. For tlic supj)!}' of technologists, scientists, 
 metapliysici.'ins, engineers, mineralogists, chemists, 
 electricifins, the university lias hardly reacherl distinc- 
 tion, Tlierc are, Jiowever, five facultii-s lhe«;l()gy, 
 lavv, medicine-, m;itlieniati<.'S, an'l j>lii!<>soi)liy, besides 
 a scliool of (K-sig!i. 
 
 Into the general education of Pcjrtugal tlie students 
 of Coimhra do not appear to have entered, l-'or the 
 supply of teachers f(jr what are called municipal scliools, 
 norm.d schools for males and females are amply pro- 
 vided, ancl they furnish an excellent body of teachers. 
 The municipal schools are not graded as in Massachu- 
 setts, but have been organized on the system of classes, 
 which I have always advocated, — the old plan of our 
 academies, in which tiie scholars ha(l an opportunity to 
 leain from tlie recitations (;f their associates, as well as 
 frtjm the guidance of the instructors. Municipal schools 
 are ])ro\ided for boys and girls se])arately, and all chil- 
 dren are admitted fiie. I 'nforlnnately compulsoiy 
 c<lucation is not enforced, and the jiropoition of nn- 
 e<lucaled cliildicn is conscfpieiilly very laij'.e, In 
 addition to llie g<;vernmiJ)t jjrovisiou for clucation, 
 theie aie many lil)eially end<nved schools supported by 
 piivate nuMiifii'cn'e iind bei|ii(-.t'.. 'I'liere have ixiii a 
 few JMilance-A «»rtlic piivate ii< adeinit'^ outc .'.o well 
 l:n</wn and so u>eful in N<\v I-'jigland J'loin wliicli 
 iilan\' a<-compIi>li'd boss went forth inlo the hi^'.lier 
 walks (.)( scludaiship. The last of the^e, as near as I 
 can ascertain, kej)! in IJsboii by an I'.nglish .scholar, 
 secured for its founder, Mr. Davidson, .an ample fortune, 
 nn<l gave many young men from IJsbon ,nnd many from 
 Jira/il, who desired an J'',nglish education, but were
 
 COIMBRA. 107 
 
 unwilling to expose themselves to the rigors of an 
 English climate, an op^wrtunity to pursue studies in 
 this line. The collegiate and common-school educa- 
 tion of I'ortUK-'l '■"' ^'•'<-'ll ])rovi(lcd for, hut the addition 
 of a Kotind Hill with Ikuicroft and Cogswell at its 
 head, or a I'Vanklin Academy ruled hy Mr. Simeon 
 Putnam, or Ivxeter with the heloved and veneral)le 
 Al)b<)tt, or Andover with its genial and authoritative 
 Taylor and Bancroft, would add greatly to the educa- 
 tional privileges of a kingdom to which more and 
 more young men from abroad are amuially attracted. 
 The Tlniversity of Coimhra should have its attendant 
 ICton and Rugby, to make the classical system of 
 Portugal complete. That its name is beloved and 
 venerated l)y all Portuguese .scliolars is not stirprising, 
 for from its walls have gone forth the learned men 
 who have made the literature of Portugal what it is 
 — its historimis and poets and novelists. 
 
 I wish we could count Miranda, the neglected 
 father of I'ortuguese i)oetry, among its ahnnni ; but 
 we cannot, and .are obIige<l to leave him to the 
 tender iinicieH of the m;iss of mankind without tlie 
 love and aduiiiation of a collejje fratertiity. The 
 mother of Caiuoeiis, however, s<tit lur ^.oll to Coimbra, 
 j;;ive Ik f mile to the ruhi\';itiou of his mind, and 
 giive llie rniiiiliy of her biith his innno»t;d ^m-iiIiis. 
 We all l.now hi'W nli^pla(■ed Iom' in the at islocialio 
 circles of I,i^llon drove liim to the wais; how his cen- 
 suring \erse was ])tniished by his banishment to China ; 
 how he w;is cast .'tshoie at (loa, bearing his inunortal 
 l)oem lhrou^;h the waves; how lie was betrayed and 
 star\ed at Mo/and »i(|ue ; how he depended upon the 
 alms bestoweil upon liis negro servant Antonio in the
 
 108 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 Streets of L,isbon for his subsistence ; and liow at last he 
 foinid a p.-mper's grave where he rested in neglect initil 
 his country, inspired by a cultivated monarch, erected 
 a stately and imposing nujuument to his memory. IJut 
 we ought also to remember that he gave Jus native 
 land tlie inspiration which great genius alone can give 
 the mind and heart of a people. What vShakespearc is 
 to the J-'nglish tongue, and Danlc to Italy, and Goethe 
 to Germany, and Caldcron to Si)ain, CauKxiis is to 
 I'ortugal, revealing U) the P(;rtuguese mind all that is 
 devoted, henjic, and noble in the history and character 
 of the kingdom. The weakness of human nature con- 
 sists not in the absence of generous sentiments, and 
 poetic emotions, and noble aspirations, and warm ap- 
 preciation, ])Ut in the incapacity of man to express the 
 inmost workings of his soul. He who utters all this 
 for his fellow-men, and gives shape to his thoughts and 
 feelings, becomes for all men the creator and guide. 
 Camoens taught the people of his time and country all 
 they were capable of, ancl Portugal became his as he 
 made it. liyron, in liis l)rilliant defence of Pope — who 
 even at this day rises higher au'l higher in ])roj)ortion 
 as lie is assailed — says: " He whocan reconcile j)oetry 
 with truth arid wisdom is tlie only true i)oet in its real 
 sense-, the maker, IIk- creator"; and this Camoens did, 
 an<l ])1;m <<1 hims'if in lliat gnat grou}) around which 
 stands that mnltilude who have laid their offerings on 
 the altar erected to their inspired brethren, and h.avc 
 done the best tluy could to keej) step to the music of 
 their great leaders and captains. 
 
 3'ut Coimbta has other objects of interest besides the 
 luiiversity. Go where you will in Portugal, you will 
 fnid that somelxjdy has been there before, and .some-
 
 COIMBRA. 109 
 
 body of so much importance that he and his deeds 
 cannot be forgotten even in the midst of the hfe im- 
 mediately around you. The morning papers of Lisbon 
 have hardly yet ceased their articles on tlie death of the 
 king and his imposing funeral, and the extraordinary 
 speech of the Cardinal Patriarch as he swung the in- 
 cense and sprinkled the holy water on the coffin of the 
 monarch, calling for the j)rayers of the faithful on his 
 Majesty who, in spile of the absolution of the Nuncio, 
 was still in Purgatory. If one could only find a file of 
 the Coimbra Daily yotirnal (if there was such a paper) 
 of November ii, 13S7, he might undoubtedly read the 
 following, reported for that faithful chronicler of the 
 little passing events of that day : 
 
 " vSad TRAGi;nv. — Our readers will be pained to hear 
 that our beloved Princess Dona Maria Tellcs, the sis- 
 ter of Dona Leonor Telles, whose conduct has not 
 1)een quite satisfactory' to her husband, King Dom Fer- 
 nando I., was murdered b\- her husband, Dom John, 
 the son of the unfortunate Inez de Castro, and thus 
 another nnha])py tragedy has been added to the history 
 of the ro}aI family. The mairiage of Dona Telles, a 
 secret alliance, with Dom Jol;n ha«l aroused the anger 
 of her sister, the (lueen, and she cheiished vengeance 
 in her he:ut. It was easy for her to rouse the ambition 
 of ] )()m John, by j)romising him the hand of her daugh- 
 ter and a i)ath to the tlirone were he free, even to the 
 point of nnirder in his own family. Dona Maria had 
 been a g(jod wife, and \)<.)\\\ John had been a happy 
 husband. Hut then a st-at U])on the throne ! Tlie 
 Prince Dom John, unmindful that the prince should 
 be secondary to the husband and father, invited many
 
 110 A Vr.AR !N F'OI'TrGAL 
 
 of our most lioiu^rable aiul Christian nobility to a ban- 
 quet at wliich the princess was not present. As the 
 evening wore away slie retired to her royal and virtu- 
 ous couch. As the banquet went on, Doin John became 
 more and more excited, until he announced to his 
 friends that he susp-ected his wife of infidelity and he 
 proposed to remove her forthwith bj- death. The jour- 
 ney to Coimbra was short. To reach his palace was 
 but the work of a moment, and the door of the princess' 
 chamber yielded at once to the mad and furious attack 
 of the Prince. The tender-hearted attendant friends of 
 the infuriated husband wept and fainted while the 
 Infante stabbed his helpless wife, reiterating stab \ipon 
 stab until she fell weltering in her blootl and calling on 
 her >Saviour for mercy. The .scene is said to have been 
 most heartrending, and adds another tragical chapter 
 to th.e history of that distressed family of wliich the 
 mother of Dom John, Inez, de Castro, was a member. 
 
 " W'e are told that the Infante has fled the city and 
 will rem.iin abroad luitil his errors are forgotten — or 
 perl'.ajis to wear away his life in the forests of Galli/.a. 
 We trust .and Ix.lieve the I,ord will h.ave mercy on his 
 .soul. W'e cannot too strongly express our regret that 
 .such a sad event has occurred in our comnuinity." 
 
 This article from the ancient Coimbra Daily Journal 
 must have Ijcen read with great pain by the citizens of 
 the city wlio loved their coinitry, were proud of their 
 government, and had great faith in and devotion to the 
 ruling family. I liavc looked in vain for aii account of 
 • the funeral of the inifortunate Princt;ss. I have not 
 cared to ascertain the exact fate of him who was called 
 the inifortunate Prince.
 
 COIMBRA. Ill 
 
 Coimbra is famous not only for its tragedies but 
 for its beauties and solcnuiities. Its Botanic Garden is 
 famous the Avorld over, and under soniewhat adverse 
 circumstances of climate really vies with the vales of 
 ^fontscrrate. The river Mondego flows through a 
 most beautiful countr)-, a bright and sparkling stream 
 in sunnner-timc, and a raging torrent in winter, destroy- 
 ing all before it. It is renowned for its destructive 
 floods, and for centuries has swept away from time to 
 time the habitations men liave erected on its banks. 
 Still the population runs its chances, and, perhaps, 
 enjoN-s the dangerous adventure. Nature on a rampage 
 has great fascination. The hills on which Coimbra sits 
 are some of the most pictures([ue in Portugal, and the 
 city, like all others which sit upon a hill, has great 
 natural as well as artificial charms. It has a bridge 
 also, — and a city with a background of moinitains, a 
 surface of hills and valleys, a river, and a l)ridge, has 
 almost everything recpiired to make it perfect. A bridge 
 with an event, moreover, is a great treasure. Coimbra 
 lias such an one, famous not only for its anticpiity but 
 for its historic and significant procession, which started 
 out in 1423, when the plague was raging in the city, 
 under the leadership of \'incente Marlins, who made a 
 vow that if he and his five sons were sa\-ed from the 
 contagion by the intercession of the fi\e martvrs of 
 Morocco, he would visit the Convent of i^anla Cm/. 
 annually, where their relics reposed, going in solemn 
 procession, naked from the waist upwards. The devo- 
 tion became very popular ; the number of penitents who 
 joined the procession increased largely, until it reached 
 nearly three hundred, old and young. Some in drawers 
 only, so!ne girt about with a napkin, marching through
 
 112 A yi:ak in vomvGM. 
 
 the most ]x)pulous streets across the bridge to the 
 convent, wiiere a sermon was preached to this ancient 
 Salvation Army. In 1555, a bishop of Coimbra snp- 
 pressed the procession and the plague retnrned with 
 inuisnal violence. The ceremony was re-estal)lished, 
 and was conlinned until the eighteenth centur>', when 
 it was fnially abolished by IJishop Dom Francisco de 
 Lemos. I am not aware that anything of similar 
 interest has taken its place ; bnt the bridge is there all 
 ready for the rare display, and I doubt not more visitors . 
 would throng Coimbra on the i6lh of January to view 
 it, than could be tempted by any ceremony within the 
 classic walls of the university. 
 
 It is usually considered that the attractions of Coim- 
 bra c-an be exhausted in a day, lUit if the Church of 
 Santa Cruz, with its remarkable history, its (pieer art, 
 and its impressi\e arc-h.iteclnre ; and the old Cathedral, 
 where the Master of Avi/, was crowned king inider the 
 titleof l)(jmJohn I.; and the Ouintadasl^agrimas, where 
 Inez, de Castro was mur<lered ; and the Monastery of 
 ySanta Clara, are all ttj be visited, rooms may be ])rofit- 
 ably taken at the tolerable hotel, Mondego, for many 
 days. Coindjra is as well worth exjiloring as any town 
 in the peninsula. 
 
 The return to Lis'oou leads through Pombal, about 
 thirty miles from Coimbra, and one of the representative 
 towns of the kingdom. rom])al is a great name in 
 Portuguese history, as great as that of Gambetta in 
 France, or Castelar in vSpain, or Gladstone in I-'nglaml 
 in our day, or as Wolsey and Richelieu in former times 
 - perh.'ips as Jefferson and IlaTuiltou and Washington 
 combined in one. He has been likened to liismarck, 
 whom Senator Ilo.ir .seems to think is the greatest
 
 rOMBAL 113 
 
 statesman of modem times, because he is in favor of a 
 protective tarifT. Pombal had a smaller territor>' to 
 control and a vcr\' difierent fonn of civilization to deal 
 with, lie had a peoi)le accnstonied to violent commo- 
 tions, fed on shaq) traditions, taught in a severe school. 
 And he had a coinitry in which insurrections and 
 earth(|nakcs divided the attention of mankind. The 
 story of his life is most interesting, and may be given 
 in full, according to the usually accepted journal style, 
 so important was he to the country of his birth and 
 ser\ice. His name was Scbasti;\o Jose de Carxalho 
 Mello, Maujuis of Pombal. lie was bom in I.isbon in 
 1699, studied at Coimbra, and having entered the army, 
 in which, however, he remained but a short time, was 
 appointed to a post in the diplomatic service. He 
 distinguished liimsclf as Minister to London ; theiicc 
 he was sent to Vienna, where he most successfully acted 
 as mediator between the Austrian Government and the 
 Holy See. Returning to Portugal, on the death of Horn 
 John v., he was called by the new king, Dom Jose, to 
 a seat in the cabinet ; and henceforth, during the rest 
 of that monarch's life and reign, he devoted himself to 
 the regeneration of his country- by a .series of the most 
 useful and vigorous reforms, Tlie great earthquake of 
 November i, 1755. placed hir.: in the most trying circum- 
 stances that ever befell a minister ; but his indomitable 
 energy overcame all diflicullies, and he conuneiiced the 
 restoration of the almost ruined capital on the magnifi- 
 cent plan, which, owing to his death, was unfortunately 
 never entirely completed. The concise reply said to 
 have been made on this occasion to the King, wlieti 
 Dom Jose nunirnfully in(piired what was to be done, is 
 certainly characteristic of tlie self-possession of the
 
 114 A YRAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 man: "Bury the dead, and feed the living." For 
 fourteen days and nights he lived, so to speak, in his 
 carriage, going from one part of the smoking ruins to 
 another, issuing edicts to preserve order and guard the 
 inhabitants from the robbers wliom the carth(|uakc had 
 set free. It was owing to his firnniess that the seat of 
 government was not then transferred to Rio de Janeiro. 
 Among the most important measures of his ministry 
 we may mention the expulsion of the Jesuits ; the 
 curbing of the much-abused power of the lucpiisilion, 
 whose authority he reduced to tliat of an ordinar>' 
 tribunal, subject to royal jurisdiction ; the establish- 
 ment of manufactories througliout the coiuitry ; the 
 regeneration of the colonies ; the abolition of slavery, 
 declaring that all .slaves on touching rortuguese soil 
 were free ; the restoration of conuncrce ; and, in a word, 
 the vast ref<jrms by which he was enabled to raise his 
 country from a state of ruin and insignificiuice to 
 opulence and an honorable position among the king- 
 doms of luirope. The just appreciation of these 
 measures by statesmen of the present day has rendered 
 the name of the great Marquis revered and honored 
 not only by his fellow-countrymen but by ICurope in 
 general. In Portugal he is always spoken of as the 
 wise statesman, the undaunted minister ; and every 
 intelligent Portuguese, when he speaks of the present 
 comparative decline of his cotmtry, breathes a wish 
 that such a man could again be found to luidertake its 
 government and revive its former prosperity. 
 
 On the death of Dom Jose, Pombal renewed a pre- 
 vious request to be exonerated from ofllce, alleging his 
 advanced age and infirm state of health. Dom Jose 
 had refused it, but Dona Maria I. granted his petition
 
 POMBAU Its 
 
 and allowed him to retire with all his appointments, 
 besides conferring on him some additional honors. But 
 the priests and Jesuits, whom he had certainly taken 
 no i')ains to conciliate, would not allow him to enjoy 
 them in peace, and the Queen ere long suffered herself 
 to be influenced by them. The aged statesman was 
 banished to the town of Pombal, and there persecuted 
 l)y harassing examinations. Finally, after much suffer- 
 ing, he died at that place, at the advanced age of eighty- 
 six. In the centre of what is now called Black Horse 
 Square, on account of an equestrian statue of Dom Josd 
 I., erected in 1775, in gratitude to the King and Pombal 
 for their energy in rebuilding the city, there was placed 
 the effigy of the powerful Minister. Not long after, 
 Ihis effigy was destroyed by the populace, who recalled 
 the tyranny of Pombal while in office. In 1833, how- 
 ever, by order of Dom Pedro, the tribute to his memorj'' 
 was restored, and now adorns the monument. 
 
 Pombal would not have found opportunity for his 
 peculiar qualities except in a land of earthquakes, and 
 Jesuits, and conspirators, or suspects, or civil contests, 
 or extravagance, or great wealth, or great poverty. In 
 youth and early manhood he was one of the graceless 
 disturbers of Lisbon. He had immense forces, and was 
 ready at all times to use them for good or evil as cir- 
 cinnslances i)resented a tempting opportunity. His 
 will was law. He filled the exhausted coffers of his 
 country by tithes, taxes, and trade, which would 
 almost be denominated rapine in the laws of Christian 
 commonwealths. He suspected the Duke of Aveiro 
 and the Mnnpiis of Tavora of conspiracy against the 
 K'ug, on grounds so slender that history is still in 
 doubt wliether he was authorized to consider whatever
 
 116 A VliAR IN I'(jKTU(jAL. 
 
 movcnicnt there was anything iiKjrc than a protest 
 against liis own imperious tyranny, and witli an incred- 
 ible refinement of cruelty tore them from their faniihes, 
 ordered tliem to public execution and most savage 
 torture, l>urned their Ijodies with the scaffi^ld on which 
 they ])erished, and cast their ashes into the sea. He 
 was inhuman and unscrupulous, and when he died his 
 system of trade was abandoned, th.e sentences against 
 his victims were annulled, their innocence proclaimed, 
 and their imprisoned companions set free. Ilis .auda- 
 cious career marks so imposing a period in Portuguese 
 liistory that his name is still cherished as tli.it of a 
 demigod, an<I it is cnon>.',h t" fix the d.ite of historic 
 events to s;iy they occuiied 1)< foic PouiImI's time. To 
 hispcoplc Ik; may beahiio, and liiscareer !u loic, P.ut 
 his exam[)le is a misfortune, his methods could not be 
 peri>etunted, his deeds of jjhilanthropy were hardly an 
 offset to his cruelty and imi)eri<jusness. } le left nothing 
 behind liim which has ])assed into the glory of his 
 cotintry e\cei>t the rebuilding of a stricken city and the 
 free<loin of the slaves. It is i)ossiblc that I'ortugal, im- 
 poverished ami mined by the folly and extravagance of 
 Doni John \'., might but for Pombal have passed under 
 the rule of Spai:i. And when lie checked the power of 
 the Clnirch, and exj)elled the Jesuits, he removed the 
 greatest o])Stacle to the exercise of his own imperial 
 sway, which he exerted to save liis country and control 
 liis feeble and vncillating monarch. He made himself 
 the ruler, and lie accomj)lished his object not by the 
 exercise of a broad and far-.seeing statesmanshi]), but 
 by the adoption of temporary and not always scrupulous 
 exi)edients. His life was endi-d in exile and disgrace, 
 and his system died with liim.
 
 TIIOMAR. tl7 
 
 To get from the town of Pombal to Lisbon or Ciiitra, 
 you must pass through ThomaraiKlSantarcm, not very 
 important places it is true, hut representative of the 
 career of this countrj*. Thomar has an enormous con- 
 vent of course, and it is an interesting one and was 
 quite unrivalled in Kurope. The Templars settled in 
 Thomar in the time of Dona Theresa, and there they 
 lived and fought the Moors and received a third of all 
 the laii'ls received from them. The castle of C.ualdim 
 I'aes, the Master of the Templars, still reUiiius, owned 
 by the Count of Thomar. There is the largest bell in 
 Portugal hanging in the belfr>- of the chapter-house, 
 with the longest I.atiu inscription ku'twti. And more 
 than fill tluie is a cotton fictory tunler the manage- 
 m( nt of an ]'"n^',lishinan, witli other intciior milK, on a 
 li\ely little stream which llows through a beautiful 
 valley. 
 
 Aiul when Thomar is lift Santarem is soon reached, 
 the last stand of Doni Miguel in 1^33, and where he 
 learned that he was not wanted in Portugal. It is a 
 ])relty i>Ia<'e, and is also attractive to the ecclesiologist 
 and to the arclueohjgist. I'nt the most interesting f ict 
 connected with it, to m\' mind, is its name. Few tirwns 
 derive their names from such an impressive source. I am 
 ha])py to say. S. Irene had taken the veil at Xabamia, 
 now Thomar, and was falsely accused by kemigio, 
 a monk who had fallen violently in love with lier, 
 of incontinency. She was in conscfpience put to death, 
 a common occurrence in her time, and her body was 
 thrown into the Nabao, ]>robal)ly that pretty little 
 industrial stream to which I ha\e just alluded. Hence 
 it floated down into the Zeiere and by the Zerere into 
 the Tagus, tuilil it reached this spot, where her iiuio*
 
 118 A VI:AK in I'fiRTUGAL. 
 
 cc'iicc was proved by miraculf)vis a])i)arition and where 
 she was hiiried with great hoiujr in llie chiireh, and 
 the town was named afler her. 
 
 The Hheration of Saiitareni from tlie >roors in 1147 is 
 a great cinsocle 5ji I'ortugnese history. It was aeconi- 
 plislied by I)om Affonsf) Iknri'iues, l)y a stralageJii in 
 whicli he nolified tlie Moors that an existing truce was 
 sns]»endcd fcjr lliree days, (hiring wliicli tiMK.-he marched 
 fn>m Coimlir.i, made a \'o\v that if successful ]ic wouhl 
 tii'low the Ci^-t<rri;iiis witli Ihc ^vh'»l(• ti;i<t <,\' ^•(Mnilry 
 fioiii I 111' S' I ra t'» III'- ,'.<■; I. In < on ■.'■(! ti<ii<( of t Iii \ now, 
 |irob;ilily, lie Inol; the <ity wilh h<:ding l;i<ld<|:t, dis- 
 h»d;M<l lh<; M<)<>rs, and foinidid yMcubara. This dc-ed 
 has be'ii considcnd a jiailof the ])'ntry i>f war, and 
 ranks wilh Ivvy an<l Jhud.er Jlill. 
 
 The way from tlie theology and war of Santarem 
 to TJsbon or Cin'.ra is easy. \\'e made our trip to 
 Cintra and the Ibjtel Lawrence. The days were 
 .still charming, llie nights resplendent with the 
 fullest moon I li.id ever witnesse(h It was St. 
 M;irtin's sunniier, the Indian summer of America 
 made more summery by the warm air of Portugal. 
 St. Martin's day, moreover, was being celebrated 
 by the jovial sons of Cintra, A rural IJacdnis was 
 borne through the streets, (uvcloped with vines ;uid 
 crowned with clusters, the lu ro of the \Mnlios, who 
 couM carry off more Colhura in a day than any other 
 frcpi'-nt' r of the wine ,^hop;., jlis noi-.y <'on.ii>anions 
 bote him in tt iumjih to the jdateau in front of Setiaes, 
 where an out-door riv< 1 orcujiied the afternoon. Cheer- 
 ftd .and happy and elated, the disciples (jf IJaeehus 
 returned towanl evening, the king of the festival still 
 retaining his reputation, and the efiects of his example
 
 CINTRA. 119 
 
 manifest among his followers. As they passed by the 
 hotel a small donkey was letting Ins heels fly indis- 
 criminalely into the crowd, who showed a noble indiffer- 
 ence to his attacks. Tlie snn went down, the moou 
 rose, and the festival was over.
 
 CIIAPTHR, VII. 
 
 Till: IIF:UOHS AND fJAI^UHNS OI- CINTKA. 
 
 Noirnihr 2Slh. — The season iti Ciiitra is over ; the 
 air is ;;ro\viiij^ too cool f')r cvMiifort without fires ; the 
 streets do not r'.ry re.uhly after ri shower ; the heavy 
 mists <lrivc 11]) fn^ni the sea and becloud the hill-tops ; 
 and altlKni^h the foli:!_t;e still ad<jrns most of the forests 
 the trees liave lost their Ir.xuriance, and one is obliged 
 to recognize the a])proach f)f a feeble winter, witliout 
 frosts to glisten, and sncnvdrifls to beautify, and tliut 
 fascinating music of the 
 
 "... nisliiti;^ of tile blast, 
 Whirli tlirouLjli the snowy valley flies." 
 
 The alternative of Cintra is IJsbon, and as Lisbon is 
 all Portuguese, so is Cir.tra. To the most charming 
 watering-[)lace in the world strangers do not come; in 
 the most ])ietures'jue city in I'!uro])e, with a genial 
 climate and beautiful .sccmer) and cipacious harlKjr 
 and convenient I'K-ation, travellers an'l merchants and 
 ]»leasure-seekers do n<A congregate, 'i'he dwellers in 
 this region go to Cintra in smnmer and to Li^bc^n in 
 winter. And so lo-tnorrow we go to Lisbon. 
 
 To lea\e Cintra with nothing more than an allusion 
 to its hills and wales and forests aixl palaces and (jiiin- 
 ias and views, is not sufficient to one who has i)assed 
 
 I20
 
 THE HCROES AND GARDENS OF CINTRA. 12t 
 
 many summer months there and has become familiar 
 with all its charming characteristics, its nature and art. 
 The grandeur of the Rock of Lisbon, standing out 
 from the level shore's of Portugal, a towering, ragged 
 clifT, toni and embrowned by storms and driving surfs, 
 split into fragments and burrowed l)y the beating ocean 
 into caves, has been the sailors' landmark for many 
 a thous.'uid years, a dark and gloomy witness of the 
 splendid a'-liieveinents and sad disasters of the land to 
 whicli it belongs. And this is the begiiming of the 
 rocky strra, stretching from the .seaside far inland, 
 known as Cintra. Nature hasconnnenced her impos- 
 ing work in moderate proportions at the .seaside, and 
 has increased in magnitude and grandeur as she has 
 passed on, until she has reached the great conical peaks 
 crowned with boulders, and the deep vales which sun- 
 light hardly reaches, and in wild beauty the monument 
 stands pointing to the vast forces which toiled at the 
 creation. Tliat this .strange pile is an upheaval of the 
 primary rocks through strata of limestone and .sand- 
 .stone there is no doubt — at least in the mind of the 
 unscientific believer. The dip of the strata, the pres- 
 ence of solid granite boulders in loose sandstone, the 
 half-solidified heaps of drift, the abrupt precipice, the* 
 ragged slopes,— all tell of those great convulsions which 
 bnjught into existence the features of the earth's sur- 
 face ; and crowning the peaks, piled one above another, 
 preserved in their places by their immovable weight, 
 .sfjine lying sidelong and .some perched on end, an accu- 
 mulation (jf boulders, thousands of tons in weight, 
 brought along and gently deposited in that arctic period 
 of the earth's history when the seas and the zones were 
 wrought into their present places. The work of the
 
 122 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 glacial period is visible in all its grandeur. Ice and 
 the earthquake have done here their jierfect work. 
 
 Cintra has borne au important part in the histor>' of 
 Portugal, not so much on accoujit of the active force it 
 has displayed in the great and critical events of the 
 kingdou), as on account of the retreat it lias furnished 
 those \»'ho have been engaged in great scenes enacted 
 during centuries of labor and conflict. When I,isbon 
 was made the headquarters of tlie Carthaginian legions 
 in the wars against Rome and her supremacy in the 
 Ilx-rian Peninsula, Cintra was a fivorile resort for the 
 conquerers. And when the Roman eagles had again 
 perched on the Lusitanian hills, the charms of Cintra 
 were counted among the sweetest rewards of the victo- 
 rious leaders. The Goths followed with their wild love 
 of nature, their indei)endent spirit, their love of liberty, 
 and for two hundred }ears the \'isigoth kings .scaled 
 the heights and rested in the valleys of Cintra until 
 the followers of Mahomet subdued and ravaged the 
 country they had taken b\- sur])rise and conquered by 
 treachery, and had inaugurated three centuries of con- 
 flict between themselves and the Christian possessorsof 
 the soil, in whi<li Charlemagne took a hand, and at the 
 close of which the fust Christian monarch of I'ortugal, 
 Dom y\ff()iisr) Ileiuiques, was sealed on the llinMK', and 
 cnished a fierce and bloody MoDrisli re1)ellion. It was 
 from the mountains cif Cintra that this monarch discov- 
 ered the great fleet of JCnglish, l'"renrh, and P'lemings 
 who were on their way to the Holy I,;md to redeem the 
 Holy Sepulchre, and whom he induced to join him in 
 relieving Lisbon from Moorish rule. And it was to 
 Cintra that he repaired to rejoice over that great victor}' 
 in which 20<'j,cxx) Moors fell in one day, on the spot
 
 THE HEROES AND GARDENS OF CINTRA. 123 
 
 occupied by the church " Nossa Scnhora dos Martyres " 
 iu Lisbon. In Cintra the Moorish kings liad built their 
 Alhanibra, and when in 1385, more than two hundred 
 years after this great siege, Lisbon was made the head 
 of the Christian govennnent, this Moorish palace be- 
 came the favorite residence of the Portuguese monarchs ; 
 and here, in 1SS9, the American Minister was received 
 by Dom Luis L, who had resorted hither iji search of 
 health but a few weeks before he died at Cascaes. 
 From the time when Dom John L dedicated this 
 ancient l)uilding to the royal service of Christian Portu- 
 gal, Cintra has been most intimately cotmectcd with the 
 great events of the kingdom. Prom lier heights where 
 Aflonso IIenri(iues saw the aiiproaching fleet of the Cru- 
 saders, Dom Manoel saw nearly five hundred >ears later 
 the fleet of Vasco de Gama returning from his great 
 voyage of discovery in tlie P'ast Indies. Here Dom 
 Sebastian held his coinicil of noblemen who decided in 
 157S in favor of the fatal expedition to Africa in which 
 kings and nobles perished and the power of Portugal 
 was broken. And as },ears rolled on and Aflonso VI. 
 perished in miserable confinement, and the heart of 
 John de Castro had been sent lu^me from India to be 
 buried at IVna \'erde, and great enteqtrises had been 
 organized and great wars fought out, the time arrived 
 when the coinage of W'ellinglon was flisplased on the 
 battle-field, and jiis wisdom was manifest in the conven- 
 tion at Cintra, which terminated in the withdrawal of 
 the I'rench trof)ps from the Peninsula, where but for 
 Ivnglish valor and Ivnglish sagacity they might have 
 gained a foothold not easily broken. 
 
 I have already referred to the interesting history 
 which gathers arouml the convents and ca.stles and
 
 124 A YLAK IN I'OKTl'GAL. 
 
 palaces of Cinlra — the Royal Palace, the Moorish 
 Castle, the Maria! va Palace the vSetiacs of to-day, the 
 I'ena Verde of John de Castro, the Cork Convent of 
 the hermit Ilonorius, the Pena lyOnga. IJutthis is not 
 all of Ciiitra. Tlie gardens jjlanted along the hill- 
 sides mid in the valleys are filled with beauty. ICven 
 the streets and paths which lead to them are bordered 
 with geraniums and wild roses, and the beds and 
 hedges are filled with plants and shrubs which blossom 
 almost every month in the year. The garden of the 
 Srddanha \'illa, that of the Pena Palace, that above the 
 Chamii;o \'illa, and the bosky dells of Pena Verde and 
 the Posoes Quinta, and the warm little plateaus of the 
 Regeleira and the Prince's villa, where the Praziliau 
 pine grows tall and tlie palm spreads out in great 
 luxuriance, and the sunny corners where the groves of 
 orange and lemon blossom and bear fruit continually, 
 are full of beauty both of nature and art. The streets 
 whicli wiiul llirough them and mount the highest 
 I)eaks, bounded on either hand by solid walls of rough 
 stones and a cemented surface whieh only the Portu- 
 guese know how to build, are of themse-l\-es pictu- 
 res(jue, and temjit one to many a long and exhausting 
 stroll. There are vineyards everywhere, clinging to 
 the rocky sides of the clifTs, and planted many feet deep 
 in tiie sand, where their roots may reach the hidden 
 springs. And from the mountain toi)S flow innumer- 
 able ri\'ulets, stealing their way beneatli the surface, 
 and filling the stone cisterns which are built along the 
 highways for the t<jiling animals, and alongside of 
 the high garden walls for the irrigation of the trees 
 and plants and crops, adorning the slopes, and cooling 
 and refreshing the .soil, while the driving mists cover 
 the svirface of the land with a li\imr green.
 
 Till": lirROrS AND GARDCNS OF CINTRA. 12$ 
 
 It was a combination of l)cauty and natural luxuri- 
 ance which gave Cintra its attractions in the early 
 days, and made it the resort of the distinguished men 
 who foundctl the greatness of Portugal, and which 
 still draws men unto it. And the centre of these 
 charms has long been found in Montserrate, an elevated 
 spot from which the l)eauty of the landscape towards 
 the sea is seen, and whose backgrovmd is made up of 
 the luxuriant hillsides which are crowned by the rug- 
 ged and rocky peaks. Prom Montserrate can be seen 
 the fniest view of land and sea and fi)rest and moun- 
 tain in all the Iberian Peninsula. It once belonged to 
 the De Castro family, and on its ridge stood the chapel 
 of the I.ady of Montserrate, until in 1750 or there- 
 abouts the Brazilian merchant De \'isme removed it 
 and built a house on the .spot, which when half finished 
 Ik'ckford leased and completed, — Heckford, whom By- 
 ron in most luieuphonious phrase calls " I\ngland's 
 weallhiest son," and who wrote the wild aiul extrava- 
 gant and voluptuous and cruel pages of \'athek. This 
 strolling \-oluptuary, who derived a vast income for 
 years from ancestral sugar plantations in St. Domingo, 
 led a gay life in the fragile building which he con- 
 structed, for a few years, and then left it to fall into 
 decay. His stable and stone cow-sheds still remain; 
 and from a height which overlooks the uneven 
 land, his cascade, which is a gentle waterfall in sum- 
 mer and a roaring torrent in winter, still tells of his 
 taste and skill. All else is changed ; and the ])alace 
 and garden which now constitute the beauty of the 
 place, and which ha\e no connter])art, have added 
 greatly to the modern fame of Cintra. 
 
 ICven in decay Montserrate was attractive ; and when 
 in 1S51 vSir I'Vancis Cook ])urchaseil the estate on ac-
 
 126 A YHAP IN I'ORTUGAL. 
 
 count of its liorticnlttiral capacity as well as on account 
 of tlic 1)cauty of tlic scenery, lie recoy;iiize(l liow ni\ich 
 nature liad clone to give him a fit locality for his palace 
 and his plants. When he took it, the slopes from the 
 little plateau where the house stands were covered 
 with orange groves and cornfields. The agricultural 
 features were removed and tree-planting began. lu a 
 little more than thirty years the gardeu has been per- 
 fected. The climate and soil in that small territory' 
 vary almost as nuich as the latitudes, and furnish a 
 genial home for the plants of the temperate belt and 
 the tropics. The lawn, always well watered by irrigation 
 and always green, slopes from the palace to the valley 
 })elow, and while it is crowned with pines and chest- 
 nuts, nourislies the palm .at its foot. The setting of 
 the hillside picture is a sturdy cork-forest which re- 
 minds one of llie weird woods in J)ore"s fantastic land- 
 .scai)es. Heneath the trees the laurustinus, broom, 
 scrub (jak, ivy, ])errwinkle, »Solomon's seal, and brac- 
 ken flourish Inxuriantly. 'iMie trees themselws arc 
 remaikable. As you stand on tiie terrace and turn 
 your eje to the left a '/'/iioti'ii Lohbii over eighty feet 
 \\\\\\\ conunands your attention, and behind this stand a 
 trdl Jfa/rosidt n>s robusla and a wide-spreading Juij^<)iia 
 latifolia of great height. I'ar down the .slope stands 
 a gronp of giant arauearias, overtopped, tall as they 
 arc, by the most luxuriant specimens of the eucalyjjtus. 
 Along the brook-side are callas, bamboos, the ])apyrus, 
 and strelit/.ias in all their impressive beauty ; and in 
 their midst a huge Oipnssns macrocarpa spreads out 
 like an ancient oak. 
 
 Along a path leading round a pretty waterfall is an 
 immense variety of plants. There may be found great
 
 TUn HEROES AND GARDENS OF CINTRA. 127 
 
 araiicarias, and llie F.ryobotrya Japofiica spreading its 
 branches thirty-three yards in circuit. Descending 
 the steps to the Avalk leading to the falls and going 
 along the other side of the ravine may be seen the 
 foliage of high palms, the finest collection in the 
 world. Beneath the wall on the left are the C/ian//ucs 
 J^iniians, the Fusrhia licacina, a rare and beautiful 
 plant unkntnvn to northern collections. The most 
 prominent of tlie palms here are the Saini/ tdiibraciili- 
 /('m, a tree six feet in circumference, and the immense 
 Trachycarpus /'"orhntii, both fine specimens of these 
 rare plants. On the right side is an .Irauain'a cxalsa 
 seventy feet high and eight feet in the circumference 
 of the stem. At this point is a large reservoir for 
 irrigation, co\ered with creepers and maiden-hair 
 ferns, while back of them a group of camellias show 
 their gorgeous flowers, paths with ferns above and 
 around lead up to the chief fidls, and the Nile's White 
 IJly adorns the banks of the stream. Lower down 
 the stream the ferns increase and a fern-girt arch- 
 way, surmotn)le<l by yuccas and .'does spans the path. 
 Returning to the walk whence we diverged to see 
 the valley of the tree-ferns, we cross the bridge and 
 pass through an avenue of dicksonias to the ruined 
 Cluii)el of Our I.ady, which was ninoved from the site 
 of the palace and is embowered in trees, ivy and roses, 
 which cover its roof, while within re]M)ses an ancient 
 Ivlruscan sarcojihagus. The view of the ])alace from 
 this point up the lawn is ver\ fine. Roses clamber 
 o\er the trees in great profusion, and along the walls 
 arc trees and shrubs remarkable for grace and beauty. 
 This division of the garden is called " Mexico." Here 
 you pass down the steps \nider an archway of Marechal
 
 12S A YI:AI' in I'dlTIicMl.. 
 
 Nii'l roses, Ihroii^'li j^roups «>f caiiifllijis, tirciMfS <jf 
 hvcs, willi rli<»<]<i'kii(lroiis :m<l :i^:ivts, 1>;itjks of yuccas, 
 Goa cNpifsscs, and New Zcalaiul draccciias. The 
 brook discloses itself from lime to lime Ihrough a lliick 
 iiD'ler^rcjwih of arbulus, heather, i»eri\viiikle, and fox- 
 ^]o\e. An arhor of laurels shelters yon for a moment, 
 Down the stream grow palms, New Zealand flax, hajii- 
 hoos, aJifl fahianas. Passing groves of oranges and 
 lemons Ihe brook glides on and empties into the 
 Var/.en. 
 
 Tlie >c)uth slo])ing lawn at the threshold of the 
 Palacio is bomided b>' "Mexico," which is situated 
 on a minor ridge, and sheltered (ui the west by a 
 grou]) of ])ine trees. Delicate ]>alms, such as PItnnix 
 rc/inu/d, /'.wt/iosfxrtn'j .Uivitndta, Coros p/iniiosa and 
 W'lildi liaiKt, the IhniKi />< /iiioritiia, the A'/io/xi/os/iv/is, 
 are phmted here ; and you. go thence directly into a 
 (kiise growth of )'i(ti(i J\u nunlua and .li^nvc Cfinira^ 
 jW s< in brya II (luni utit s ;{\v\ (ia::<niia.s fdl up all the spaces. 
 Aloes and \iiccas abouml in " Mexico," as well as dale 
 palms, and many tonler plants seldom gnnvn in the 
 oj>en air except in the tropics. Here wc find Dniania 
 /hiuos, hirgc cadi, Dasyhtn'on anal rich in in, Opiinfias 
 (•(liiniitiii , /■jirfion's i^iomliflora, Dranriia S/uppon/ii, 
 Boiiapai l<(X J liiiim, Pniimtlia puUlifniiiia, ;uid I'irsia 
 illaiiaipliylhi'i. The hillsi'le above is covered with 
 ce<lar><, Jiuuilypli , and cork-lri.es. 
 
 I have given this elaborate list of ])lants, which 
 ends here, hardly expecting it to be rea'l. lUit I think 
 they ou^ht to be recorded ; av.d I am sure it will l)e as 
 inlere^ting to other horticulturists as it was to the Ivn- 
 gli:-h gardener who furnished it for public use. 
 
 The I'alacio Montserrale is as attractive and inter-
 
 Tin: Illl'dlS ANh (lAKIJliNS OV CINTI'A. 129 
 
 i'slin}( as Ihc ^;ir«lcii. Tin- ori^'inal ImiMinj^ wan 
 creeled, us I liave said, uboul 1750, fell into decay, and 
 was leased and repaired by l'>cckford, who occupied it 
 three or four years, and then abandoned it to fate and 
 the weather. It was closed in 1775 ; and liyron 
 walked the ruined hallh in iHio. The present style of 
 the building, as erected b\' vSir hVancis Cook, who cotu- 
 ineiiced the restoration in 1S57, is Venetian, with a 
 Moorish type introduced. It stands on a narrow 
 plateau, and conunands the finest view, near and re- 
 mote, to be found in Cinlra. 
 
 The palace is two lunidred feet long, with a beauti- 
 ful circular vcstilnile, fniished in native marbles, at 
 the bout ciilianrc ; and w ilh a handsome side entrance, 
 opcniiiK out up<in a charjiiinj; view of the g-'i'^l^'U. •'^'><1 
 the heavily wooded hills bcNond. A laslcfully enclosed 
 terrace surrounds the entire building. l'*roin the front 
 vestibule a hall extends to a fine nmsic room in the 
 rear, and is divided mid\\a>' by a tasteful court, in 
 which a marble fountain is playing- The walls of the 
 hall are finished in bermliful tracery, copied after the 
 Alli.'unbra, and worked with the most delicate taste 
 and skill. The pillars of the hall are u-rought from 
 colored marbks of great beauty found on the estate and 
 in other parts of Cintra. The munerous niches along 
 the sides of the hall are occupied by a series of classic 
 statues, and the lofty ceiling is finished in most grace- 
 ful designs. 
 
 On the left, as the hall is entered, is the library, a 
 room thirty feet loijg by twenty wide and nineteen 
 feet high, finished in wabnit. with a door in high 
 r</>()i(s.u' work, representing Diau.i in the cha<e, taken 
 from an Italian palace. The lil>rary contains four
 
 1}() A yy.AU IN I'DI.'TIKIAI.. 
 
 tliousnnd voUuiks of sluiuhird works on biography, 
 history, i>o(jlry. ;m«l tlioloKy. i'> I'orUij^ticsc, rrencli, 
 aii<l v'^panish. In the room arc a iiuxk-l of the statue 
 of Marcus AurcHus, in Rome; a model, also, of the 
 Colunni of Vespasian, in yeliow Antico marble ; Ciiupic 
 Cento hron/.es, and Indian arms cajUured by the Vice- 
 roy of Indi;i at the takin;,,^ of Delhi; antique busts of 
 the Roman emperors ; and swords from Delhi, taken 
 after the capture by I/>rd Camlin^^ An immense 
 library-table occn])ies the cetitre of the room ; and the 
 windows o])en on the j;reat .slopin;,^^ lawn at the side of 
 the pal.K {•, 
 
 Opposite lln- liliiary, and of the same si/.<-, is tiic 
 «iiniu^',-room, whose wall-, are huiij^ with pidines by 
 tlie old masters ; and on en h side of whose massive 
 nre-place stands a life si/e X'eiuiian fiKUie of a hea\'y 
 I'Uhiopian slave, holding!; in his hands a. basket for 
 fruit. A handsome model of Pompey's Pillar, in 
 broii/e and bl.ick i!iarb!c, tm feet hi;<h, stands a^^ainst 
 one wall ; while the op])o>ite wall is adcjrned with a 
 Russian group, in marble, representing the triumphs 
 of Alexander the Great. 
 
 The north drawing-room, corres])onding in si/.e with 
 the library and the dining-room, is fdled with Portu- 
 guese carved cabinets ; cabinets inlaid with ivory from 
 Ooa ; a beautiful Rombay carved table of teak wood ; 
 a collection of Chinese and Japanese vases ; bowls and 
 caskets of copper, cnamtdled ; a fine Algerine onyx 
 table, and large Nankin vases. l'>y the side of one of 
 the finest cabinc-ts sits Cenesche, in jjorcelain, the 
 ruling god of India, ugly, squat, and great. 
 
 The south drawing-room contains many specimens 
 of Chinese and Japanese works of art, junong which
 
 Till; lli;i^Oi:S AND (JARI)I:NS of CINTRA, 131 
 
 may l)c stvti a liij^lily wrouK^lit tboiiy circular ta1)lc of 
 grcal beauty and anli(iuity, teak-wood chairs and 
 sofas, rare caljiucts of Tortuj^ucsc and Italian work- 
 mauship, and uiany vases of Oriental shape and 
 color. 
 
 The end opposite the entrance is occupied by a 
 music-room of fine acoustic proportions, and 1)eauti- 
 fully decorated. It is circular in .shape ; ajul around 
 the walls are niches filled with .statues, between which 
 arc marble i)ill us sujiporling a tastefully decorated 
 ceiling tai)crinj^ U]) to a dome of white and j^old, and 
 haviuj.; at its base for each arch a head of the muses in 
 marble. A ^^land piano fionj the Austrian Ivxposi- 
 tioii, a marble Krou]) of "The Listeners," carved 
 Indian fnrnitinv, dainty JiniliHi'itrs of teak wood 
 from (loa. and rare va^cs com])Ic(e the outfit of the 
 room. 
 
 A side-hall, openini^ out of the circular fountain- 
 coiut, cont.iins the main staircase of the palace, and is 
 ornamented with a Cinque Cento copy of the Nile 
 from the statue in Rome, most beautiful I'lemish 
 tapestries, and a most imposinj^ old Arabic IJilha 
 for holdin^^ oil, — a \ase of perfect proportions and 
 coloi in^. 
 
 iMom this hall you pass into a .small room filled 
 with a miscellaneous collection of ecclesiastical relics, 
 and lamps of ancient Portuguese manufacture ; a fine 
 old copy of vSt. Anthony in alabaster, once the prop- 
 erty of Mr. r>eckford, and purcha.sed by vSir Francis 
 in London ; an alabaster relievo from an oratory ; 
 crucifixes in silver; chalices, .and a very old enamelled 
 processional cross. On the wall han^^s a beautiful Italian 
 wood-car\ing of Christ bearing- the cross, with a laige
 
 132 A Y1:AR in i'ORTUGAL. 
 
 ivory ami pearl cross liangiug over it. An inlaid cabi- 
 net from Cjoa, a table inlaid with niother-of- pearl, a 
 Cnstodio of silver gilt, aiul heavy \'cnetian iidaid 
 chairs make up the furniture and ornaments of this 
 curious and tastefid room. 
 
 Tiiis is Montserrate, where vSir Francis and Lady 
 Cook reside a very few months each year, which is one 
 of the great attractions of Cintra, and from a visit to 
 which the lCm])eror of Iha/.il has just returned to the 
 I'ragan/.a filled with a'lmiration. 
 
 Among tlie remarkable spots in Cintra is a cave or 
 den (lug out among boulders, cutout of rock, floored 
 by the ])ii:nary foinidations of the earth, and roofed 
 with artificial tiles. The entrance is a space l)etween 
 two enormous stones, so low that you mast sloop on 
 entering. The rooms are small and dismal, enclosed 
 by walls into which the great swollen forms of buried 
 boulders are set here and there, and whose ceilings are 
 comj^osed of a wild mi.Klure of rude art and rugged 
 nature. All is .stone. — cold, dark, gloomy, dismal, 
 disgusting. When you have crept through the .stony 
 entrance, which you approach across a small, rough 
 grass-plot and re:u;h by a few rude stone steps, you 
 find yourself in a contracted hall, dimly lighted, from 
 which you can i)ass through low doors into an apart- 
 ment containing twenty cells for monks, each cell 
 being only fixe feet S'piare. A little church, with an 
 altar adorned with blue tiles and a recess in which a 
 devout figure kneels in ]irayer, oflers you a gloomy 
 consolation. A sacristy of siinilar construction con- 
 tains a figure in plaster, — I suppose of Christ in his 
 agony — and a moukly wall. A gloomy refectory, along 
 which is placed a roUL^h stone slab for a talde, with a
 
 THE HEROliS AND GARDENS OF CINTRA. 133 
 
 wooden seat each side, backed by the stone wall, and 
 affording about eight inches of depth to the scat, the 
 width to be governed by the si/.e of the sitting and 
 feasting monk, constitutes the dining-room. The ad- 
 joining kitchen is supplied with little stone braziers 
 and charcoal furnaces, and is not supplied with closets 
 and presses, so far as I could discover. In a small 
 court-yard are a few more little furnaces ranged round 
 a narrow stone jjent-house, just about large enough for 
 a single stew or perhaps a savory broil. All this is 
 lined with cork-bark— ro(jms, cells, .seats, and church, 
 — lo counteract the dampness of the earth and .stone. 
 The means of heating are not apparent, and the usual 
 provisions for cleanliness are gone if they ever ex- 
 isted. This strange combination o( the wildest and 
 rudest nature and a cra/y freak of art is situated on a 
 bleak, rough tract, at the top of a srrnr, where one 
 of the rugged places is spread out, and has bect)mc a 
 hard, inieven, wind-swept plain, from which you can 
 look down upon the peaceful valley fifteen hundred 
 feet below. 
 
 This stony structure is called the Cork Convent, 
 from its linitig. It might be called the Rocky Mon- 
 astery, from its exterior ; and the Insane Asylum, 
 from its history and purpose. It was projected by 
 Dom John de Castro, as I have already said, and was 
 erected by his son after his death in the sixteenth 
 centur>', and after his victorious career as the great 
 caj)tain and founder of the power of Portugal in the 
 Kast. He died amidst the scene of his conquests, 
 pious and ])enniless, in the arms of St. bVancis Xavier, 
 who, as he closed the eyes of his illustrious friend, 
 said : " The \'icero\- of India is dying S(^ poor that he
 
 t34 A VIAR IN FMRTUGAL. 
 
 has not wherewith to buy a fowl." The great Viceroy 
 declared on his deathbed, if bed he had, that he 
 laid out his last shilling in relieving the wants of his 
 soldiers ; and when his coflers were opened there was 
 found in them the sum of one vintcni — a little more 
 than one ]>einiy. His courage and ability had founded 
 a great einpire, and had enabled a nation to erect 
 churches and monasteries and universities, and to 
 sweep the high seas with the great fleets of her com- 
 merce. He had fomided the most enteri')rising kingdom 
 of the century, and knew the j)ower of man in securing 
 great werdth and culture and emi)ire. The great 
 authors of Spain and Portugal were his contemporaries, 
 probably his friends and admirers — Cercantes, Lope de 
 Vega, Santa Theresa, Carcitasso, in Spain ; Camocns, 
 Miranda, I'erreira, in Portugal ; Tasso and Machiavel 
 and Ariosto in Italy. Out of the great wealth he 
 poured into his country' grew the gorgeous architec- 
 ture of the church in his day. lie had palaces, friends, 
 pov.er, a great history. 
 
 It would not l^e easy in our day to luulerstand that 
 .spirit of lunniliation, that recognition of the need of 
 j)enance, that religious ecstasy which drov'e liim from 
 the .society of the great into poverty and seclusion, and 
 led him to provide for the erection of this gloomy cell. 
 The occupants were twent>' reformed Franciscan monks, 
 who spent their time in the most abject degradation of 
 the flesh in their .search after the elevation of the spirit. 
 A cold and gloomy cell by day and the most miconiforta- 
 ble couch by night constituted the arrangement of their 
 home. The isolatioji was depressing. Xeitlier picture, 
 nor library, nor famil} circle was theirs. Not far from 
 the cavern which had been ci>nverted into an ecclesiasti-
 
 THE iii:Kor.s and gardens of cintra. 135 
 
 cal institution, you are k-cl hy a short and narrow path 
 and a flight of irrcguhir stone steps into a hole partly 
 roofed by an enormous stone, to all appearances the 
 den of a wild beast, in which the hennit Honorius 
 passed the last sixteen years of his long life. In this 
 damp and filthy spot this " holy man " retired at night 
 to his couch of leaves and his stone pillow, after his 
 days of praise and worship, to which he was constantly 
 devoted. To lie prone was impossible. He curled 
 himself up in his narrow quarters like a hi )eniating 
 bear. He lived to beninty-six >earsol(l, and on a stone 
 in front of bis cave his bretlircn inscribed : — 
 
 Ilir Honorius Vitam I'iiiivit, 
 ]•'.{ I(k'o cum Dio in Coclo rtvivit — 
 Ohiit Anno Domini, 1596. 
 
 And l{yron wrote of him : 
 
 " Deep in yon ravt.- Honorius \ou\^ diil dwell, 
 
 In hope to merit heaven hy tnakini; earth n hell." 
 
 Perhaps this long tale of heroism and .self-sacrifice 
 and fanaticism, as we call it, does not interest us, as 
 does the tale of the Mavjlo-vcr and the .star\-ing and 
 freezing winter at Plymouth. Hut we should never tire 
 of contemplating such events in man's history, repre- 
 senting, as they do, the courage and determination by 
 which great deeds are acc()m])lishcd and great lessons 
 taught. Honorius and his fellow-monks represent a 
 spirit which finds expression in our day in remorse, 
 penitence, and regret. Had John dc Castro, with his 
 proud spirit and his religious enthusiasm, taken the 
 place of the great Puritan leader, he woidd have found
 
 136 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 no need of dens and caves of the earth in which to 
 jjurify his soul. His daily life would have furnished 
 him an ftpportunity for self-sacrifice, which he could 
 not find in the splend<;rs of the empire he had enriched 
 an<l the nobility he had clothed with p(;\\xr. What he 
 would have done in our day and country' God only 
 knows — unless he had betaken himself to an alms- 
 house or a reformatory institution. 
 
 I rambled ai)(nit Cintra examining all its beautiful 
 places. I drove to Cascries and saw a;^ain the superb 
 sea-view, a ])alace and a fortification combined, j^reat 
 turreted walls, beautiful terraces, a sea-washed cave 
 so deej), dark, and dismal that it is called "The 
 Mouth of Hell " — in Pcjrtuguese tongue, " Boca 
 d' Inferno." 
 
 Cintra has long been the home or the summer resort 
 of ])ersons of rank, wealth, and distinction — the De 
 Castros of former da\s, the v^aldanhas of more modern 
 times. The estates are still largely held by persons of 
 this descriplion, and I' sli.ill not forget the courtesy of 
 Sir I-'rancis and I,ady Co<;k, at our rejK-ated visits to 
 Montserrate, and in llu.ir liberal sn])iil)' of plants an<l 
 Jlowers for oiu' ro<)m at tin- I,a\vrence ; or the w<.-lcome 
 we fotnid at 111'- tennis court of the Mascaihenas and 
 al til' hull (• of 111'' K' \'. Ml. ro]"', llic I',n}di'-.li i'clf»r, 
 and al lli<' piil!\' <n[\:\yr of Mi, M-iny Nivill, (lu- 
 intc-llii^cnt aii'l alUntixe niana^-/ i of Monl'.niaU-, all 
 of whose residences cluster around the famous garden. 
 'Vo have enj')yed the cheerful and enlivening inlluence 
 of I.ady I'elre and her judicious husband, the P.ritish 
 minister; and the ICnglish hosj)itality of vSir George 
 and Lad>- Uonham ; and the warm reception of 
 Moaseii;neur \'ainuitelli, the I'ope's nuncio, at his
 
 THE HEROES AND GARDENS OF CINTRA. 137 
 
 qiiinta, where he blessed you with his genial smile, 
 and cheered you with his bright conversation, and 
 sliowed you his crops and his cattle with pride, and 
 warmed your heart with his choice port wine ; and the 
 quick intelligence of Chevalier Cotta, the Secretary' of 
 the Italian Legation, and his brilliant wife and those 
 fascinating little girls ; and courteous Rosty, the Aus- 
 trian Secretary of Legation ; and the Brazilian Attache^ 
 Senhor Coellio Gomes, with his graceful, entertaining, 
 ami accomplished wife, the bt-auty of Indiana ; — to 
 have enjoyed a social group of national representa- 
 tives like these, I say, is not easily secured and not 
 easily forgotten. The presence of the royal family, 
 moreover, gave great (juality to the society of the 
 place during all the summer months, when the King 
 was strong enough to be present at the brilliant recep- 
 tion given at the palace, and the Oiieen had not lost 
 courage over his Majesty's illness, and Dom Augusto 
 drove up and down the hills with his fine four-mule 
 team luitil he went away to <lie at the Xecessidades, 
 and the Prince l<oy;il, Dom Carlos, and his beautiful 
 Princess had tluir home in his charming villa, from 
 which he ste])ped to the throne of his father. The 
 horses were admirable and the mules as fine as nmles 
 c ail In-, ami the music of the ])ala('e band lloaled out cm 
 i\iry e\cning-lide, and unilorms flaslud in the stnits, 
 and for the fust lime in the hi^lniy of Portugal the 
 American Minister was received by the King in the Old 
 Palace at Cinlra, with all the pomi). and circumstance 
 of such occasions. It is a good deal of a place, and a 
 good deal of a siunmer, and a good deal of a station, I 
 suppose, which brijig all this, and fine weather too, and 
 all the charms of the sceiier)- of that renowned scrra.
 
 138 A YHAR IN PORTUGAL, 
 
 liut now a rnilrond runs from T,islK»n to Cintra, nncl 
 there is a ImllfiKlit on vSuiidMy .'iflcniooiis, and the 
 people fliK'k ont fVoni the city for refreshment and recrea- 
 tion, and llic j)lnce lias chanj^ed from its former exclii- 
 siveness which was preserved by nearly twenty miles 
 of a dreary road over a most nninteresliii^ comitry, 
 with rattlinj; carriaj^es and slow and stubborn horses 
 and nniles, An<l so Cintra now sees the oilier side of 
 life, 'i'he creaking; wine-carts are still drawn into town 
 from Collares by stately oxen. Donkeys still strng^lc 
 over the roads, hidden by lu:j;e panniers of fruit and 
 vej;et.-d)les and sheepskins, or weighted down by great 
 I)iles of green pine wood, and the noise of the roaring 
 dri\er with his eternal whip is heard in the street. The 
 town has a busy and .somewhat populous air. A great 
 many talkative persons stand round in the market-place. 
 A great many baskets of oranges and lemons, and tur- 
 nij)S and apples, and a great many bundles of chickens 
 and dncks strugglitjg to be free, cover the si<le-vvalk in 
 front of the market house ; ;ii)d a great many jural 
 women condiif t the tiMde, on which a jailfid of » rimi- 
 n.d'^i );•'''•' f'oni Ihfit jMnleij windows on Ihf oppir.il** 
 nid"' of the hlitet, ;itiiiving in hi)'.hl (»f »uir|i iihnlv, mid 
 b« j'.Kinc idmn in vntn fioin lh«' pioi pi ron i li,id« ir^, Thf 
 boys pl.iy bull fi J', hi in llic s<|ii;in-, Th"' sliop',, imt vtiy 
 heavily stocked, aic ope u with llirii- umikiw fronts and 
 their shallow rooms. The donki y-drivers IkIIow at 
 the little Inasls, swear Ihey an.' iiioUc, la/.y ; and gi\'e 
 them a he.ivy <losi.' of t/iihnfo, tlx- switch. " N<'u> 
 fnl/a foyfuinii": / " says the c/irriage driver, who t:d;es 
 advant.ige of yoiu' ignorante to charge you wh.il he 
 ple.ases for his time-worn team, I he.ird a noisy alter- 
 cation in the street between two dingy sons of Portugal
 
 THE HIIROrS AND GARDENS OF CI^^^RA. 139 
 
 when otK- sliouUd to llic other, '' Pouha inna ^arra/a 
 d'airua (jnatl,'<wsf)/s," whicli, heijij^ iiilc-rpreted, ineaiis, 
 " Put a hollk' «»f liot water to your feel " ; and iiiidduht- 
 edly takes the phice of that roiij;h Anierican advice, 
 "Go home and put your he;id in soak," as the last 
 anuiliilatinjj^ refleetioti iu a fij^lit. ICvery man, be he 
 be^'K'T or prince, shakes hands witli every other man 
 in I'ortuKal ; every woman kisses every other woman on 
 each cheek when thi-y meet and part. On every holi- 
 day (and ahno.st every (hiy seems to l)e a hoHday, more 
 or less), the streets of Cintra are thronged by young 
 men, not very well dressed, and old men, some of whom 
 are very badly dressed. Drunkenness is very rare, and 
 street fights so .seldom occur that in a .'^ojtmrn of five 
 months I never saw one. Cintra oti a holiday is a little 
 like a New Ivngland town with a circus. 
 
 As Lisbon increases in wealth Cintra should become a 
 sunnner resort for many of its prosperous citizens. Were 
 it in the neighborhood of I'.uis, or I/)ndon, or Xevv 
 York, or Hoslon, it woidd soon be built up with clia- 
 leauH and \ilI,iH, ;ind inou- stilely counliy residmces, 
 (ftiil wouM lank among tlic f.r.Iiionablc walering-pIaceH 
 ol III" w'lild III lii.ioiic ir(()id giv'cH ji (I p(culiar 
 • li'Mii lor Ihr ..luduit, the pl.HT given it h» lil'ialnre 
 atliiK l( Ihr piM t, III"' b< .uily of il^ heciieiy eliarins llie 
 lovtr of natnrt.- ; and the various capacity «»f its soil, 
 warmed by a tropical sini .and cooled l»y ocean bree/.es, 
 makes it the genial home of the cultivator of fruits and 
 flowers. I am confident the time will come when I,is- 
 bon iind Cintia will be inelude«l in a Ivurope.in trip for 
 h<;dth and pleasure by all who lca\'e America hoping 
 lo find wh.it they might iind in Florida and Cali- 
 fornia.
 
 MO A YI:AK IN l'( iK IIJCAL, 
 
 Sunday at Cinlra in (lcv«>l','l lo lM!liri;.;l)ls -inild and 
 penile omUxls, whfii compared willi the criK-l and 
 bloody oiiconiikTS wiiich arc so ])(t[niUir in Si)aiii, A 
 Portu^niesc bnll-fi.^dit rc-sc-inblcs a Spanish bull-fight 
 about as much as Gov. Banks' famous Couo^rd muster 
 resembled the battle of Gettysburg. The amphitheatre 
 in wjiicli tlie cxhiI)ilion is held is a rude structure 
 standing in tlie outskirts (.f the town— the first object 
 which greets you as you ai)])roach Cintra on tl;e rail- 
 road from Lisbon, and capable of holding five thousand 
 persons. The land around it is if)ugh and uncultivated, 
 and the gates and fences which enclose the space arc 
 dilapidated and decayed. Th.e bulls which arc to 
 furnish the entertaiiunent are a small, lively breed of 
 bl.ack cattle, supplied by the surrounding country, and 
 distinguished more for their ac-tivily and liveliness 
 than for tlieir majesty an<l sa\agery. 'I'here are />/m- 
 </i'/ts, and 'Iti'los, and humlit illcro';, .-.iid iiial(uli)>,s \\\ 
 abundance, all armed and e(piipped for their work. 
 Small (1 arts and si)ears abound, and the costume of the 
 actors is as j)ictnres<pie and varied as Portuguese color- 
 ing can make it. The ami)hitheatre is siuTounrled l)y 
 a circular fence of i>Iaid<s about six feet high, to protect 
 the audience against the frantic leaps of the terrified 
 bulls, whose disp<;sitioii to escape is not roused by 
 any .severe and bloody fight in whicli they are expected 
 to engage, and whose activity is not weakened by any 
 exhausting wounds they receive in the arena. They 
 often overleap this barrier, to the confusion of the 
 audience outside. Passages are o])ened into the arena 
 for the entiance of the actors and their horses, and for 
 the admi.ssion of the bulls, which are driven in singly 
 from an outside enclosure, where they are confined until
 
 Till: Ili;Rf)nS AND GARDHNS OF CINTRA. 141 
 
 they arc cn^a^a'd in tlu* conflict Tlu* bulls npj twelve 
 ill nuiiiht-r and ;irc expected to make twelve fiKlUs, A 
 qtiiet audience asseinhU-s in ati orderly manner — atnus- 
 inj; themselves after tlie fashion of a comic theatre. 
 Opposite the main entrance is the royal box, an attrac- 
 tive atid .showy .structure, constitutini;^ all the architec- 
 tural beauty of the l)uildiug. From the arena the seats 
 rise in anii)liilluatre form, after the .style of those 
 imjMjsin^ structures made famous by the l)utcherics 
 of ujan and beast "to make a Roman holiday." It i.s 
 a very quiet and orderly assembly, gathered for (juite 
 an innocent amusement. I looked for the flashing 
 c\es, and the eaj.;er look, and the growin;.; enthusiasm, 
 and the 1)lood-thirsty intensity which an audience 
 assembled for a bloody bull-fight is wont io exhibit. 
 'Ihe ftui consists in throwing coins nr comfits, if the 
 Poitugue.'-e enjoy this blessing, to attendants in the 
 arena, or to .some hero of a luuidred bull-battle^, who 
 has withdrawn his honored and distinguished person 
 from the contest. Waiting for a Portuguese bull-fight 
 to begin is a te<lious business. 
 
 At last ;i signal is given, and a ])rocession of />/ra- 
 (/ons and i)ial<idoi(ii and bandcrilhros enter, some 
 mounted an<l some on foot, and proceed to pay their 
 res[)eets to the occupants of the royal box. A small 
 door on the right is noisily oiKne<l, a bar is removed, 
 and three or four men are seen urging and hurrying a 
 lively bull into the surprising scenes of the arena. The 
 bull enters with a hop, skip, and jump, evidently glad 
 to escape the confinement of his narrow quarters and 
 the clubs of his persecutors. The scene in the arena 
 evidently astcmishes him, and he ])auses in the middle 
 to survey the multitude about him. His repose is
 
 142 A YKAK IN I'f )K riTiAL. 
 
 S(K)ii over, however, for before liis vision floats many 
 a red banner, darts and spears are thrust into his 
 neck and shoulders, lie is l)eset on every side by 
 tonnentors on liorseback and on foot, and he affords 
 great entertainment to tlie spectators by rushing wildly 
 about, attacking ever>- antagonistic object he meets. 
 The affair is innocent enough — tormenting, without 
 doubt — but not excessively cruel. No crippled horse is 
 gored and disembowelled and killed. No picador 
 asto!iishes a breathless audience. The sand of the arena 
 is unstained with tlie blood of horse (^r bull or chulo. 
 The bewildered bull pauses fc r a moment, the assailants 
 withdraw for a s])ace, and half a do/.eti mild and .sedate 
 oxen are driven into the arena, with whom the bull 
 seeks companionship, and retires, to be followed by a 
 new act with a new bull, until the twelve are exhausted. 
 The audience retires quietly, having observed the 
 character of the bull under difncnlties ; the grave and 
 stubborn bull, the wild and lively bull, the bold and 
 fearless, the timid and cowardly, — all in safe antago- 
 ni'-m. We were most grateful that no one was hurt; 
 and if bull-fights are to form a part of the national 
 entertainments eoinmend us to the Portuguese variety.
 
 CHAPTHR Vlll. 
 
 THE NORTH OF FOR rU(jAL.-THE AJDUA.— MR. 
 EMERSON. 
 
 November 2()th. — It is ati old adaj,e that "one must 
 have a good constitution to travel in Spain." The .same 
 was tnie of Portugal, which w;\s a part of the Iberian 
 Peninsula, and whose hills, and valleys, and plains, and 
 crags were and are only divided from Spain by an 
 imaginary line. In mnny respects this liardship of 
 travel is gone, and with it many of those interesting 
 events and experiences which attend slow movement 
 on horseback and in diligence, whose place is now 
 largely taken by railway. 
 
 Portugal, with rough roads and bridle-paths and 
 local characteristics and convents and monast^.'ries and 
 ecclesiastic discipline and imperial subjugation, was a 
 very different thing from Portugal with railroads and 
 depopulated monasteries and convents converted into 
 public libraries and a constitution and elections and 
 the repose which follows a long period of commotion. 
 When the convents were closed and the Church lands 
 sold, Portugal lost one of its most attracti\e features to 
 the traveller, one of the most interesting points in 
 its history, one of the rarest of its social and civil 
 arrangements. 
 
 It would be difficult to estimate the vast amount of 
 invested wealth which has lain idle and useless since 
 
 i»3
 
 144 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 the great ecclesiastical esta])]islnnents were closed, and 
 the ecclesiastics .scattered. Mafra alone cost i9,ocX),ooo 
 crowns, and Mafra was but one of a great group of 
 similar stntctures .seattered over the kingdom. Mafra 
 seems to be useless now except as a monument of a 
 former age and another form of civilization. Mndowed 
 with large p<>>sessions and great incomes, the luxurj- 
 of some of these institutions was fabulous, the chanty 
 unl)ounded. The hospitality was measured by the 
 difhculty of access, as in the early days of Virginia, 
 when it required a week to reach a neighbor for a 
 morning call, and ten days of rest and food to get 
 .sufficiently refreshed to return home. A hundred years 
 ago it l(X)k nine days for a traveller to get from Lisbon 
 to Oporto ; and if a call was made on all the hosjiitable 
 cloisters and refectories on the wa\-, it might have taken 
 nine months. Now it takes twehe hours by rail, and 
 a few more hours will aflord time to call at Alcoba(;a, 
 and IJatalha, and Coimbra, and Vi/.eu on the way, if 
 tjiose deserted halls and empty larders and wineless 
 cellars slu)uld present any tein',>tatiou to the curious and 
 luuigry and thirsty traveller ; and \'ou get oidy a pano- 
 ranja of a country diversified with hill .and valley, and 
 cornfield and '/ineyard, and dingy hamlet and uninterest- 
 ing dwelling, and what aj^pears to be a innform popu- 
 l.ilion scattereil over the (jia'/i/as, instead of the people 
 of former days racy with the characteristics and tra- 
 ditions of the various localities. 
 
 In the ftjrmer days how different ! Were the American 
 Minister, invited by the Prince Regent of Portugal, dur- 
 ing the present administration of President Harrison, to 
 visit the monasteries at Batalha and Alcoba9a, he would 
 join tlie royal company at the station in Lisbon, journey
 
 THE NORTH OF TORTUGAL. 14$ 
 
 eighty or ninety miles in a luxurious railway carriage, 
 and finish his journey in a comfortable coach, all within 
 a few hours ; and as a reward ft)r his easy trip, he would 
 find a1)sorl>ing traditions, the grandest and most in- 
 spiring archilccture, sublime provisions for the loftiest 
 worship, now silent and comparati\ely deserted. The 
 American Minister of a century agi), if invited, would 
 have found a very ditTerent entertainment proposed for 
 liim. The royal procession would have been imposing, 
 composed i)f the Prince, two or three high ecclesiastics, 
 with ac(,)lytes, .secretaries, .servants, grooms, and mule- 
 drivers, with their favorite beasts of burthen. Chaises, 
 carriages, and baggage carts, drawn by sturdy nuiles, 
 and stylish and spirited horses, made up the modes of 
 con\eyance. Through i>retty villages, and among ma- 
 jestic palaces, and captivating gardens, the train would 
 have moved ou, and as the sun went down, the travellers 
 would have covered fifteen or twenty miles, and have 
 fomid a place for luxurious repose in the domain ofwell- 
 endowed monks. A morning stroll through gardens 
 and whiat-fields, and along the bank itf " a nuunuuing 
 stream " would commence llie second day, and after an 
 ample and d<.'lic.ile repast, the tr.\in would pittceed. 
 The journey wi>uld be along the banks t)f the Tagus 
 for a long distance, which wi>uld be explored in order 
 to find (piarters for the night iu a rich and ample 
 dt)main, an ancient mansion, where the finest linen, the 
 richest \'enetian glass, and the most luxuriant gardens 
 cheered and delighted the tr.aveller. I\re long, how- 
 ever, the road would become almost impassable to the 
 hea\y carriages of .so distinguished a party, l-'rom the 
 slfuighs of the highway the strength of Portugnese 
 
 shoulders alone would be sufllcient to extricate them, 
 I';
 
 146 A YF.AR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 and after long floumkriiig and great clamor and as 
 much objurgation as the Church would allow, the proces- 
 sion would jK'rhaps reach the regal monastery of Alco- 
 ba^a. The arrival of the corlt'i^c in those days would 
 be aiuiounced \)y a tremendous ringing of deep-toned, 
 heavy, sonorous bells ; and monks, fathers, friars, 
 and subordinates, four hundred in number, would be 
 drawn up in grand spiritual array on the vast platform 
 of the monaster)- to extend a welcome to the visitors. 
 The adoration of the real presence would arrest the 
 attentic)n fjf tlie new-ccjiners, and the tombs of I'edro 
 the Just, and Inez de Castro, his beloved, woidd re- 
 ceive their first devotions. Notwithstanding the beauty 
 of the building, the splendor of its decorations, and the 
 sacred object to which it was devoted, the hospitality 
 of the prelates, I doubt not, would be energetically 
 and jJHjmptly manifested. 
 
 The kitclien of Alcoba^vi was most attractive in its 
 day,- -its traditions are most a])peti/.ing. It was a 
 broad and lofty hall, finished and decorated with great 
 arc-hitectural skill and artistic taste, through whic-h 
 flowed a cle.ir and crystal rivulet stocked with the 
 finest river fish. Game, venison, meats, vegetables, 
 and frtiits were always heaped up there in great variety. 
 Gre;it ovens furnished most delicious bread in abun- 
 dance and every variety of pastry and tarts sweetened 
 with the rarest sugar and made fiaky by the liighest 
 culinary skill, A bamjuet from this kitchen and these 
 stores can be imagined. 15efore it Mr. \'anderbilt's 
 famous kitchen and rebellious <'ook sink iiito insignifi- 
 cance. It consisted, as we are told, " of not only tlie 
 nK)st excellent usual fare, but rareties and delicacies 
 of past .seasons and distant coinitries, ex(piisite .sau-
 
 THE NORTH OF I'OKTUGAL. 147 
 
 sages, potted lampreys, strange nietius from Brazil and 
 other still stranger from China, edible bird's nests, and 
 shark's fins dressed after the latest mode of Macao by 
 a Chinese lay brother." A sumptuous adjoining apart- 
 ment was provided with choice confectioner)', and was 
 fdled with "the fragrant vapor of Calambre and the 
 fii\est quality of wood of aloes." 
 
 In ample chambers the travellers might find repose 
 for the night, their eyes delighted with ewers and ba- 
 sins of solid silver, towels bordered with point-lace, 
 and carved furniture, while the feet were comforted 
 witli Persian carpets of the finest texture. After the 
 hard travel and the sumptuous fare sleep was sound 
 and refreshing. I low to my mind, as I contemplate 
 this picture, inidoubtedly true to life, comes the strain 
 of the old .song we used to sing in college, v/ith the 
 .sweet tenor of Win. Henry Prince, the solcr.in and 
 (piaint ; and of George Derby, the honorable, high- 
 toned, and loyal ; and \V. W. Story, the graceful 
 artist, whose manly 1)ass voice furni.shed a foundation 
 for the rich melody of the youthful choir : 
 
 " i am Ji friar of orders K''''y> 
 
 Aiul down in the valley I take my way ; 
 
 I ])ull tiol blackberry, haw or hip. 
 
 (^lood store of venison doth fill my scrip. 
 
 My lon;^ bcadroll I merrily chant, 
 
 No money 1 have, no money I want; 
 
 My .-iijjjetite I mortify 
 
 With a dainty bit <;f .i warder's pie." 
 
 Among the orange groves, iKMidering on damp walLs 
 the inscrij)tions to the knights wlio fell at Aljubarrota, 
 one might have spent many liours in interesting study
 
 1(8 A YI;AI< IN I'f'RTrCAL 
 
 and iheii hrivc turned lo llic Ircusurcs of crystal candle- 
 .sticks, sa])[)liire-stud(k'd crosses, ^(jMeii reliquaries, and 
 models of cathedrals with a'lniiration. The departure 
 from this luxurious spot, ahoundinj^ in wealth and 
 elegance, meant the stumnons to long lines of carriages, 
 riding horses, .sumi)ter miiles, and baggage carts with 
 jing.ling bells au'l noisy drivers. Xo \vell-a]»poinlcd 
 railway train would b< ar tin- \isitors away, but up lh<; 
 ^li<I» asccnls Ihe travellers with lluir lumbt ring car- 
 riages would toil to the great wide plain on which was 
 ftjught as long ago as i;yS5 the fierc-e battle which drove 
 the Castilians from I'ortugal and gave the throne to 
 Doin John, the illegitimate son of Dom I'ernandc), 
 known as the king " of j;ood memory." Au'l now the 
 monastc-ry remains .solitary and <leserlcd, an instance of 
 v.liat may be found thnitighout Portugal. When Dom 
 Miguel was route'l, ruid his claims to the throne de- 
 stroyed, the liberal supporters of tlie legitimate line 
 annoyed at the supi)ort the monasteries had given him, 
 determined on their overthrow. In i><34, under the 
 reign f»f Dom Pedro IV., the extinction of the monastic 
 order took place bj' a<.l of the Cortes ; the monas- 
 teries witli but few excej)tions were closed, the lands 
 were .sold, and the silver au'l laces of the ecclesias- 
 tics were (lis])OM(l of ;\t auction, It is said the 
 sru-rifice of proj)erly was gnat. One powerful cleimul 
 (»f so<iily was d<stroyi 'I, in whose Ii.uids wen- many 
 imjxirtant iutlustrits ;ttid tlif great fountains of jmblic 
 charilj'. 
 
 To the traveller and the student the change was 
 great, as can readily be seen. Alcobac.i, in the prime 
 of its a<-livity and wealth and j)ower, was an object of 
 deep interest to all explorers of Portugal ; Aleobaya de-
 
 THE NORTH OF PORTUGAL. 149 
 
 spoiled is but a melancholy remnant of the past, telling 
 its tale in silence and i;loom. I am not discussing here 
 the attitude assumed by the niotiastics in any national 
 crisis nor the condition of the monaslerics at the time 
 of their exlinction. I am only considering the effect 
 of llie deslruction of any great order n])on the slate 
 and society upon \vlii( li it lias a foothold, Tlie ])laee 
 left vacant may be filled with maUrials none the less 
 interesting, but until fdled there will remain an aching 
 void. (fO to-day to :i monastery in the full vi^or of its 
 activity and wealth in the i)ossession of the Prince Re- 
 gent, and to-morrow by rail to an a1)andoned convent, 
 and you will miderstand the <lifference, so far at least 
 as the ])oelry .and sentiment of the land are concerned. 
 Deserted dwellings and aban<lotK(l estates, moreover, 
 do not add to tlie active vigor or to the living appear- 
 ance of any people, be the ruins mills or monasteries. 
 Abandoned wind-mills on hills where once great wheat 
 crops grew, do not tell a t.de of agricultural prosperity. 
 The tale told by ab.andoned monasteries, thoUKh dilTer- 
 ent, is just as significant. That is all. 
 
 Portugal is fast bec(nniug accustomed to the new 
 order of things. As monasteries have retired, railroads, 
 with all their intlustrial influence, have increased and 
 mnlliplied, not rapidly. l)nt steadily ; and they are dis- 
 tiny.uislud more for safety than speed. 'I'liey are well 
 maiiaj;ed, however ; Ihc stations :ue will constructed 
 .'Mill well cared for; the employes are i>roinpt and civil, 
 and the fares are reasonable. Lisbon is now conmcted 
 by rail with every great city in ICm<»pe. ,and local 
 acc(jmmodatioii has largely increased during the Last 
 few ye.ars. Meaiiwliile the traxeller in PortUK:d finds 
 his oi)[)ortunity for local observation and contact with
 
 150 A YF.AR IN I'ORTUCAL. 
 
 llic peoi)lc largely cliaiiKcd. A journey l)y royal pro- 
 cession to Alcoba^a is now quite impossible, and the 
 old horseback journey, with guides, is nearly aban- 
 doned. Tlie teni])tation to sto]) in the small towns, in 
 wliicli the j)opul:ir characteristics are displayed, no 
 longer exists ; :ind wny-side inlcivicws are (|uile out of 
 llu- <)n<sti'»n. 'rravcllinj', now ni(;ins going fVoiii pl;ne 
 to pl:ice ; formerly, it iiieiuit ddibfiiite Ntudy ol' I:ind- 
 sc.ipi' and people, of vill.igf ;ind city alike, ol fi<-ld ;ind 
 garden, and forest iind farm. 'I'lie introduction to all 
 lhisconsi^led in tlie purchase of a liorse for the journey ; 
 and in this single operation more is learned of human 
 nature than can be in days of <iuiet and mere Sf)eial in- 
 terviews with the ])eoj)le. 
 
 U any one desires to know all about a P(jrtuguesc 
 village, k't him open negoti.ations there by a horse- 
 trade. Perhaps this is triie everywhere ; but it is 
 especially true in a country where the language is not 
 well under^.tood, ami where the management of horses 
 is somewhat jjcculi.ar. Having m.ide a successful pur- 
 chase, and .secured pn;per efpiipments, in the way of a 
 saddle, pistols, saddle-b.-igs and. c-lo;ik, the traveller has 
 the way open before him, along river banks, over rocky 
 .steeps, and thron^di .-ill the highwa\s and byways by 
 which ci'untiy inl<. iTourse is kt'pt up. In 1 his way Hy- 
 mn went through Sp.iin atid Portugal just eighty years 
 ;i;.M) ; and wherever Pyron went, he went for in\estig.i- 
 tioii. lie had saddlediorses and serv.anls ; and he under 
 took to ride ])ost nearly 400 miles, as far as ()ibr;dl:ir; 
 aJid thence he went by .sea to Melita and ]>y/,antium. 
 It is verj' evident th.it by the way he be( 'ami: very inti- 
 mate with all tl);it w;is to be seen and heard, Ilec.ame 
 to Cintra, an<l pronounced it " the most beautiful vil-
 
 THR NORTH OF PORTUGAL. 151 
 
 lagc, ptrliaps, in the world," When in Lisbon, he 
 wrote : " I am very happy here, because I love oranges, 
 and talk bad Latin to the monks, who understand it, 
 as it is like tJK-ir own ; and I goes into society (with 
 my jKJckft pistols) ; and I swims the Tagtts all across 
 at once ; and I rides on an ass, or a nutle, and swears 
 iNtitiiKMcsc. Htil what of that ? Comfort nnist tiot he 
 expec ti'd by folks that gr) a-pleasiuing. When the 
 Tortngnese are pertinaci(jns, I say Canadw ! the great 
 oath of the grandees, that very well su])])lies tlie ])lacc 
 of' Damme' ; and when dissatisfied with my neiglibor, 
 I ]>rononnce him .loibia di mtinio. With these two 
 l)hrases, and a third, Avra boiiro, which sigtiifieth 
 'get an ass.' I am universally understood to be a person 
 of decree and a master of languages. How merrily we 
 live, that travellers be !— if we had food and raimciit. 
 But, in sober sadness, anything is better than ICngland ; 
 and I am infinitely amused with my i)il,i;rimage, as far 
 as it has gone," 
 
 Does ;uiyl)o(ly suppose that Hyron woidd have 
 learned all this wisdom, and more which he did learn, 
 if he could have taken a train at Alcantara, .and started 
 out from tliis station oti an excursion? In fact, the 
 only way for a traveller to secure the respect of the 
 jK-ople he came in contact with in fornur days was by 
 pinsuing his journey in the saddle, if he could find 
 one. If the jjcople of a village are inclined to be 
 obliging, a horseman. wlu» has ri'ldeii tip to an inn door 
 for " enterl.n'nment for man ruid beast," will soon find 
 it out ; and if, on the other hand, they are inclined the 
 other way, he will .soon find that out. If he is fortu- 
 nate, all the curiosities of the ])l.ice will at once be 
 oi)eiU'd lor him ; .ill the inconveniences of a country inn
 
 152 A YFAR IN I'CJHTUGAL. 
 
 arc at once revealed to him ; all the traditions of the 
 locality are jwtired into his ear. The economy of the 
 farm is taught liim practically. In Portngal, the 
 working of a sin;.;le-handeil j)loti}^h ; the reaping; of 
 j^rain by the hand (if woman ; the slorin^^ of ^orse, for 
 hcddinj; (something like the wood-wax of ICssex 
 Conntyj ; the manai^ement of oxen ; the use of the ox 
 cart, whose axle-tree revolves with the solid wheel ; 
 the domestic manaj^emcnt of the fimily, — all can be 
 seen from the saddle. 
 
 In a c'luiilry of antiquities, the sauntering; traveller 
 finds his v/ay into e\ery obscure trace of a former 
 peoi)le, — in fact, can hardly escape them. His eyes arc 
 in every ])la(e ; his ears are open to their cry, if he 
 will only kee]) his mind alert. Would you learn the 
 literature of a ])eople, loini.^e through the towns ; note 
 the presence or absence of the newspaper ; examine the 
 str.iy worn books, if there are any ; and draw your own 
 inference. If yon >;o into tlie north of I'orlu^^al as an 
 explorer, you are at on<e introduced to some of the 
 nir>st brilliatil .scenes of rorlti;^uese history, — not in 
 the j-^nat <-ities, like Opoito, and Coindna, but in the 
 moiint:iin fastnesA'"., and on the l);ittli'-()'ld, 
 
 III the }'.nal <-xt<iil ol' ((Miiili y l>'iii}; .'iloiij; the homo 
 li\rd tli:it bold and lianly raci- who fou^'.lil thioiij'.h 
 many y',iiKaations for the iiKl'-peiidcnci- <)f l'ortn;.;aI and 
 Spain whi-n tin- Arabs were ))Ianlin^^ the .Moslem fdth 
 and banner throu;.^hout the land, lonj< before William 
 the Conqueror had set foot on I'.ni^lish soil. Here 
 Affonso Heiitiques fou^^ht his ^reat battles and secured 
 his power. And in this hill coiniliy the ])eople learned 
 their rights, \';du''d tlnir jtosst.ssions, and kniwhow to 
 defen.l them. 'I'o asceii<l tlie commandin^^ hills an(l
 
 THE NORTH OF F'ORTUGAL. 15J 
 
 look down upon the theatre of this heroic action is the 
 privilege he enjoys whose endurance has been increased 
 by hard journeys and who has not been cncr\'ated in 
 mind or Ixxly by railway travel. It is licre, too, that 
 the wine largely imported into Salem by our mercantile 
 ancestors was made, — not Canary, which figures so 
 largely in old invoices, but Port — the wine of the 
 Knglish statesman, the wine on which the two-bottle 
 men of Parliament i)rided themselves, the wine with 
 which our old Saturday Club washed down their salt- 
 fish and apple-jjie. The ui)])er Douro region should be 
 dear to every man with Salem blood in his veins — a 
 region to be reached only on horseback or on foot. 
 
 Portugal, like every old country, is full of amusing 
 incidents and accidents. It is not common for a traveller 
 to be lost in a wood in these days, especially where man 
 has trod for more than two thousand years. And yet 
 one of the best Portuguese travellers, as he tells us, 
 found himself in Cinnnerian darkness at night in the 
 middle of a forest in the Algarves, deserted by his 
 runaway horse, and his guide, who started in pursuit 
 (jf the animal through a dense inidergrowth, and 
 with no knowledge whatever of the cotirse to 
 follow. 'J'iie K"'*h' beliewd in ghosts. 'I'he Sc\en 
 VV'histlein were luiird, and his tenor became in- 
 tense. " If a man oidy looks at them and .sees 
 tluiii, hea\en only knows what will not hapi)en to 
 him," cried the superstitious boor. No light was 
 to be .seen in the wood — not a path. Horse and 
 guide had vanished, and after a slender repast on 
 bread aiul wine the " benighted swain " sat upon the 
 gromid, leaned his back aj;ainst a tree, and fell 
 asleep. The shrieks of a revolving axle-tree, a
 
 154 A Y1:aK in I'CjKTUGAL. 
 
 sound well known lo every traveller on the country 
 roads in P(jrtn;;al, awoke him in early morning, 
 and he took his way to a neii^hborint^ village as directed 
 by a carter, where he found his terrified guide sleep- 
 ing soinidly lying in a manger <^f the village inn. When 
 asked why he did not resi)ond to his master's call, 
 which he acknowledged he heard in the wood, he 
 rc])lied, " I really heard the voice, but I thought it must 
 be an ali)ja do ok fro in undo" — a soul from the land of 
 gho>ts. When this c(»nsiderate master ad»ministered a 
 dose of brandy :.nd (juinine Ut th.is same inconsiderate 
 guide, when he had been accidentally ducked in a cold 
 and ra])id river, the sufferer exclaimed, " I will never 
 touch those />o~('s do inferno — those devils' paws — 
 which you put in your brandy." The boys in the 
 street address each other in play as "your lordship," 
 and an intelligent ICnglishman informed a stranger who 
 was trying in vain to make himself understood, that 
 " these natives understand luiglish well enough if they 
 choose ; it is only their confounded obstinacy, sir ; if you 
 t:dk loud enough the}' will alwa\-s understand." If you 
 would know Portugal tra\-el on foot or on horseback. 
 
 On vSalurday last I was summoned to a reception at 
 the Ajuda Palace, given by tin'; King and Oueen in 
 honor of the birth of a prince named Doin Manoel, 
 and by the Oueen Dowager in condolence on the death 
 of Dom I.uis. Of course the invitation came at the 
 last moment. I received it at nine o'clock in the 
 morning, just as I had risen, to have fift}- minutes 
 in which to dress, cat my breakfast, and catch a train 
 from Cintra to Lisbon. The reception was at one 
 o'clock. When I arrived at the Ajuda I found the 
 great courtyard filled with carriages, in the long pro-
 
 THE AJUDA. ISS 
 
 cession of which I was placed on my way to the great 
 entrance to tlie palace. It is easy to imagine my 
 impatience, and it is easy also to imagine the alacrity 
 with which I leaped from my coupi\ called the faithful 
 Ramos to follow, and proceeded on foot between long 
 files of soldiers on one side and carriages on the other 
 to the royal abode. I surrendered my overcoat to 
 Ramos and was directed up a long flight of marble steps, 
 well caq)eted for the occasion, and I nnmnted up and up 
 into a lofty story where I was directed to a handsome 
 room in which I found the Brazilian Minister solenni 
 over the United States of Brazil, his attache, S. Gomes, 
 the cheerful Mr. Petre, the British Minister, and one or 
 two secretaries. The room was gradually fdled with 
 decorated gentlemen, among whom was one inexperi- 
 enced lady, who had considered herself invited, and 
 was bound to see the show if .she was alone in her glon*'. 
 After a little change of diplonuitic civilities we were 
 summoned to the throne- room, and we passed into that 
 stately apartment through a room filled with a glittering 
 array of cabinet ministers and officers of the court. 
 We all passed solennily on, led by my friend the Nuncio, 
 and stationed ourselves in a line opposite the throne, 
 which consisted of a canopy, three golden chairs, and 
 a dais. The crowd of courtiers followed us into the 
 room and filled a large space near tlie entrance. At a 
 signal the young King and his mother a])peared : the 
 King in undress uniform, a short s.ick with slight 
 decoration, dark blue pantaloons, a dress sword, a 
 helmet with a long plume in his hand ; the Queen 
 Dowager in the deepest inonniing, attended by about 
 twenty ladies-in-waiting all in like attire. The King 
 and his mother j)roceeded at once to the Nuncio at the
 
 iS6 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 head of the diplomatic line, and addressed him and each 
 foreign minister in turn, passing down the line, the King 
 leading and his mother folUnving. We all made a little 
 confidential speech to the King, who looked happy, and 
 to the mourning Queen Dowager, who had suddenly 
 passed through sorrow from middle life to old age. I 
 congratulated, in proper phrase, as you may suppose, 
 the father, and expressed my condolence to the widow. 
 When we had done this we all filed out, making a low 
 bow to their Majesties as we passed in front of them. 
 The ceremony for us was over, and I drove to the 
 Bragan/a for rest and refreshments. 
 
 The Ajuda is one of the six palaces in and around 
 Lisbon, and was intended to be the finest of all. It is 
 .still unfinished. It was built l)y Dom John VI., who first 
 of all Portuguese monarchs took \ip his abode in Brazil 
 in 1.S16, and who began to l)uild this enormous palatial 
 structure on money received from that empire, intend- 
 ing it to ]je the most splendid palace in luinjpe. It is 
 situated in the suburbs of IJsbcm on a sterile height, 
 and is approached through streets full of squalor and 
 poverty, which in Portugal are as- great as the squalor 
 and poverty of any other spot on earth. It stands on 
 this connnanding height, to be .seen by the voyager as 
 he enters the Tagus. It is built of white marble, and 
 preser\-es its wliiteness ([uite reniarkably for this 
 lalitu<le. It is only one third of the size designed for 
 it by tile extravagant king, and appears like a ruin 
 — or rather an imitation of a ruin, after the order of 
 the anti<[ue furniture m;iiuifactured in Boston. Prince 
 Ivichiiowski in 1S52 said of it : "The wretched style 
 of the last century, the ugly statues, the cold 
 uiarl-»le — all this eanncA i)lease merely because eighty
 
 THE AIUDA. 157 
 
 milliotis oicntzados were siK-nl on the work, and because 
 it would be a great work if it were to 1)e completed," — 
 not very good ICuglish, 1)ut fair, considering the original 
 writer was a Pole and the translator a Portuguese. It 
 is hardly worth while to describe it, ibr it is like all 
 palaces on the Continent, big and cold and hard and 
 uncomfortable anil luxurious and preteiUious and as 
 impressive as royalty. It has slate aiKulnients and 
 royal private rooms, and a incture-gallery and a numis- 
 matic cabinet and a library. It is most elaborately 
 constructed, and the woodwork is finished in a manner 
 most .satisfactory to a citizen of the Ignited States of 
 America, that country which excels in wooden jxilaces 
 and in the best architects in wood. The royal apart- 
 ments were finished about the time of the marriage of 
 Dom Luis to Maria Pia, the now widowed Oueen, in 
 iS6i, They have in the ceiUre a marble hall, which 
 separates the apartments of the two sovereigns ; rooms 
 beatUifully furnished and decorated, adorned with vari- 
 ous marbles, green and blue silk hangings, floors inlaid 
 with woods of various hues, and a few j)ictures of local 
 interest. There is a silver model of the last tomb 
 erected to the memory of Dante, presented by the peo- 
 ple of Raveiuia, where the great poet died. A small 
 Madonna, by Perugino, does somewhat to redeem what 
 art there is ; for a large galler> is filled with jiicturesof 
 the I'"lemish, the Lombard, the Dutch, the I-'lorentine 
 .schools, so designated, I suppose, in order to save the 
 personal responsibility of the artists who painted them, 
 many of whom I pro! nibly never heard of. When the 
 artists are named I find myself in e(|ually profound 
 ignorance ])y my own fault or theirs. Tiie interest of 
 the virtuoso, however, is kept up by man>' rare articles
 
 15S A Yr.Af< IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 of vcrtu, such as silver latikanls, ])aptismal fonts, ex- 
 quisite caljinets, curious furniture, and rare old por- 
 tieres. In the room I first entered arc pictures of Dom 
 Pedro v., the young brother of Dom Luis, \vlio died 
 in 1861, and of his young Queen, Stephanie, who 
 died about the .same time, — the King a fresh, handsome, 
 slender youth, and his Queen a tall and beautiful girl, 
 quite in contrast with many in her line. In the throne- 
 room o])pposile the throne are the pictures of I)om I'er- 
 nando, a tall, slender, athletic gentleman, and of Maria 
 Gloria, his Queen, who died earl> — a sturdy, .solid .spc- 
 cimeti of the ]5raganza blood; 
 
 When the Prince of Wales visited the King here not 
 mail}' years ag(j an<l lodgv-d in the Ajuda, tlie streets 
 which led to the jjalace were lined with heavy fir-trees 
 set in the ground along tlic way in fonn of a fine 
 avenue, which it was supposed to be. 
 
 To-morrow ends our summer in Cintra, and I shall 
 leave it with great regret. I have already come into 
 Lisbon to i>rep.'ire for the coming of my family. It is now 
 evening and it is most beautiful. TVom the tall windows 
 of my rooms at the liragan/.a I can look out on the broad 
 river, which swells out into a bay and makes the harbor 
 of Lisbon. High above rides the moon, with a silver 
 light intensined by this clear and sparkling air, which 
 seems to cl.arify everything it surrounds, and attended 
 V>y a glowing evening star, which is gradually with- 
 drawing from its great rival and sinking into the west. 
 The harbor is brilliant with lights from the many ves- 
 sels floating there. And far away .stretch the shores, 
 lying all along the hori'/.on like great reposing monsters 
 watching the be.iuty of heaven and earth. Tlie scene 
 is most charming, and is increased in beauty l)y that
 
 MR. tMliRSON. 159 
 
 unaccountalile force whicli in lliis rcigon makes the sky 
 bluer and the sea more sparkling and the land more 
 mysterious and the stars l)righter and the moon more 
 luminous than can he found elsewhere, I believe, on 
 earth. 
 
 I have been reading once more the life of Mr. Ivmer- 
 son by his .son. All day I h.ave lived in the book. 
 The more I study him, the more I admire and wonder, 
 and am puzzled. I knew him well and saw him under 
 interesting circumstances. I knew him first in the 
 Town and County did), that strange col'icctioii of 
 transcendentalists and unl)elievers and theorists which 
 gathered in IJoston .so many years ago. lie always con- 
 gratulated me on a little speech and repartee I made in a 
 debate there. I heard liim deliver his famous Divinity 
 Hall address to the divinit}' students in 1S3S, and lean 
 hear now his opening words : " In this refulgent sea.sou 
 it has been a luxury to draw the breath of life ''; and I 
 remember how fiscinated I was by his .sweet humanity 
 and bewildered by his unorthodox theology. I recall the 
 clear cold winter evening in Andover when I read '* Na- 
 ture" to a gentle old .schoolmaster in the third slor\- ( )f the 
 tall lumse next to my father's, with a glowing fiie and 
 bright candles, waiting for this dear old jK-dagogue to 
 find out what my book was and who was the author, 
 and achniring the fervor with which he at last ex- 
 claimed : " Why, that must be ' Nature.' the book Mr. 
 Ivnierson wrote." I lemember, too, how we rejoiced 
 in its fine i)hilosophy and sweet .sentences. I can sec the 
 gentle and uncomi)romisiug pliilosopher and i)oet sit- 
 ting at John Chapman's table in London with his fine 
 face and his charming words. I have not forgotten 
 our trip lo Chalsworth and .Stralfoid-on-Avon and
 
 ir/) A yi;AR in vouiiuim. 
 
 Jilc-nheiin, togcth' r, on a warm ]'"iiy;lish summer day, 
 nor our voyage home, when he devoted himself to a 
 weil-kuown Lowell spinner for facts. And I still, look 
 back on a lecture I gave in Concord, on I^urope in the 
 Nineleeiilh Centur}-. in which I described the uprisings 
 in I'rance and ICngland, and ventured to predict that 
 rei)iiblics were a great wa\' off in ICuroje — a prediction 
 not far out (;f the way that year ; and as I look back I 
 can hear Mr. iCmerson, as we sat in his study after the 
 lecture, admiriiig my ]Mctures but doul)ling my conclu- 
 sion-, i\nd so I ))a\-e scrii ;i ynm] Aca] of Mr. Jvmerson, 
 and I always felt that lie knew viry lilllc how nui< h I 
 h> nip;itlii/ed with him and how much inlliK nci- he harl 
 owr nic. I lis !i. sthclic lo\e of n.iliuc, w hich made him 
 rejoice in a bare hillside with slumps .and briars and 
 cinclers, antl in a growing c-rop ;ind a shady nook, was 
 in me a practical riality, which moved me as it did 
 liim, but with the addition of a farmer's cousider.ation 
 (A the value of the scenes he loved, Xatiu'e to him ■ 
 meant God ; to me it meant also the rule God gave man 
 over the fowls of the air and the beasts of the field. I 
 \u)derstood hissiile ; but lie did not (juite care for mine. 
 ]Ie feared the \ioleuce of the early reformers, while he 
 accepted th.eir faith. I rememljer hearing him and 
 Wendell Phillips and James h'reemau Clarke one 
 evening, in Mechanic Hall, vSalem, sjjcak on the John 
 brown >t:ugg!e in Virginia. Phillips was heroic ; 
 Clarke thought I'.rown was e<pial to Chri>t ; ICmerson 
 thou;.dit his fiith great ;nid his motives g<jod. 
 
 ( )r lh<- bc.iuty of his life till re ran be but oik; ojiinioii. 
 'i'!!:it he p iM .( d to cull .\i\f\ \]\f effect of his tca<hin^.;S 
 tJM'ie may b<- smii;c dotibt. When Mr. l',merson <Ie- 
 cluied his unbelii-l' in the usually :ic<x-plc(| si;.;niricance
 
 Mr. EMIiRSON. l6l 
 
 of the T.ord'.s vStippcr, lie wouiulcd severely a Christian 
 connnuiiily, niul kd a liost of freethitikers into a con- 
 fused mass of doubt and unbelief, while he himself 
 advanced into a divine and inspired world of his own, 
 which he was a])le to create and comprehetid. And 
 when he had left the ordinances, and erected a Chris- 
 tianity of his own, he really found his first inspiration 
 in the example and teachings of Christ. All of his 
 utterances were drawn from Christ's thoughts and 
 words. Nothing that he ever said or wrote was in any 
 way ajitagonistic to the spirit of Christ. And I am by 
 no means sure that he would ever have reached the 
 height of his trinsceiwknlal faith, or have recognized 
 the iinier light of his own soul, if his ehildliood and 
 youth had not been guided and formed by tlie influence 
 of a Christian mother, in the fnnily of a i)ious Christian 
 minister. How sweetly he dreamed and thought, and 
 how finely his nature recognized all that was honest 
 and brave and beautiful about him. Honesty as blunt 
 as a ledge of rocks he admired ; and the ]x)ssessor was 
 clothed by him with a robe of beauty. His admiration 
 of the rural society in which he lived, was his admira- 
 tion of .-\n ideal comnnniity whose nearness to nature 
 in the fields ;nid woodlands won his nature-loving 
 heart. 
 
 Standing alone as he did, he became the most acute 
 obser\-er of the workings of tlie human mind. He put 
 int(» wonls what most men hardly dreain, much less 
 sh;ipe into thoii-lii. His idr;d w.is high ; lijs fiith in 
 mm w;is-grr:it, And so this m.in thought gieat 
 tlMMij'.lits, and l.ii(l down a lolly path of duty. It isnot 
 MUprising th;it llie community in Concoid uorshippc-d 
 him. He was to them the ]>uresl man tin earth; and
 
 162 A Yl'AR IN I'UKIU'iAL 
 
 lie made llicin iK-licvi- llicy were as ]»ure fuul g<^ocl as 
 he was. And so it was lliroiighout the country. 
 Peo[)lc learned tliat here was a man modelled after the 
 order (;f Christ. When tliey saw him, his face shone 
 as if he were an angel. When he spoke, he had the 
 calm and positive t<Mie of an oracle ; and, while they 
 understood not all he said, they believed in him, and 
 I)rayed to be like him. 
 
 Now, Ikjw great an influence he has exerted on man- 
 kind I He uiidoiihtedly did his share of liberalizing 
 the Christian comiminity,-— a work which has been 
 g(;ing on with surprising force in these Later years. 
 But, while Channiiig and Ware and all their followers 
 have left fixed beacons ruid guides and defniile beliefs, 
 to which all men are drawn, Ivmerson st.ands as an 
 outside force, i)re])aring, ])erhaps, the minds of men to 
 accept the i)urest faith. He will be retu'.-mbered as an 
 acute thinkc"; a great l)oet, of sudden and short-lived 
 in^pir.'ilio!! ; a purifier (;f the minds and hearts of men ; 
 but h.ardly ai a fovnider, or a lea<ler, or a creator f)f a 
 devoted and rcMjlule sect, whose influence is so great 
 that their existciiee becomes imj>ortant t(; society, or 
 the vState. or the Church. 
 
 I think Mr. ICmerson's tale of his father's labors as a 
 lecturer, is ]KUhetic. A delicate, thoughtful, educated, 
 refined philosopher, from necessity, as he thinks, ex- 
 ])oses himself to the discomfort and danger of hard and 
 long winter travel ; to the "bed and bo.ard " of human 
 liabitations hardly worth)' of the name ; to conversation 
 and intimate rrl.ations with the ignorant, the curious, 
 and the mercenary ; and suffers those longings which 
 every f ither feels when absent from his own fireside, 
 and wears himself out in a ser\-ice which belongs to
 
 MR. HMCRSON. 163 
 
 tliosc who make it their business to entertain the public. 
 Tlic <leV()tion was su])linie. Tlie work itself does not 
 present a cheering picture. It grieves one tliat so 
 sweet a S(ju1 should have been exposed to the trials of 
 such a life. The audiences who listened to Mr. ICnier- 
 son — what of them are alive — can never know the toil 
 their teacher endured ; nor can they ever be grateful 
 enough for the opportunity they enjoyed to listen to 
 his teachings. 
 
 I h.'ive looked in vain for such a man as I''mers<^)n in 
 all the ann.'ds of l*<;rtugal. Heroic poets, warriors of 
 fleeting fame, dev(;tees to the Church, coiupierors and 
 ex])lorers the\' have here in abundance, for a thousand 
 years; but no man has taught the truths of "divine 
 philoso])hy " in the Portuguese tongue, and no man 
 lias achieved that fune which, because of its spiritual 
 meaning, is innnortal.
 
 CIIAPTI:!?, IX. 
 
 iisi'.oN.— I hi: s(,)nAi)i^( jn.-'iih: acclamation,— 
 'iiii; I'Ai.Aci s.— iiii; i)iNNi;u,— Tin: kin(i, 
 
 Dnciiibcr J<;lli. — TIk- brilliant days still eoiitiiuic. 
 While the theriii'^inctcr is twelve dej^rces below zero in 
 New J'.iij^hind, and NUow-drifts fdl the valleys of Ari- 
 zona, ruid Constantinople is bnric-d in a licax'N' winter 
 storm, the days lu're are refulj;ent — not too warm, l>ut 
 fre^h, brisk, cool, and invi^'oratini;. The j;rcat event 
 is the arrival of Doni Pedro and his royal family, and 
 we I'.avc resigned onr ample snite of apartments at the 
 Bragan/.a for the exiled court, and are contenting 
 onrselves with humbler quarters. Last evening \vc])aid 
 our respects to tlie ICmperor. We found him in his 
 drawing-room with the ICniprcss, Count d'Ku and the 
 Countess — the former a grandson of I.ouis Thilippe, 
 and the hitter the daughter of Doni Pedro. The 
 ]Cmperor looks very old, aged. The lirightne.ss of his 
 face is gone, his e\e is dim, his hair a!id beard are 
 snowy white, lie inquired after Alexander Agassiz 
 and Onincy Shaw, and recalled his interviews in 1S76 
 with J'hnerson, Longfellow, and P.ryant, and talked 
 nnieh of Agassiz, with whom 1)C became veny intimate 
 <luring the expedition to the Ama/.oti, lie gathered 
 his thoughts with diffu-nlty and did not speak P'.nglish 
 as well as I expected. The Ctnuit d'lvu was very
 
 LISBON. t65 
 
 demonstrative about Brazil, His account of the flight 
 of the family and the condition of the new republic 
 was ,i;rapliic, Tlie former was hurried away with very 
 little ceremony, and the latter was hurried in with 
 little order. His description of lirazll is not encour- 
 aj;in^. There are twenty provinces now called states 
 by tlie new government ; some of them are distant from 
 Kio more than tliirty days by steamer, along the coast 
 ami up the rivers. In many of these stales there arc 
 no jiciMiU'. <-apable of orv,ani/.ing a gox'ernmc'ut, and 
 none to rej)resent tl'em in a federal congress. The 
 negrcKS are indolent :iiid ignorant, living on the natu- 
 ral ])ri)<lucts of tlie soil. He was (juite emphatic in his 
 statements. Perbaps I-'onseca woubl tell a different 
 .story. 
 
 Tile Ivmpress is very feeble. The Countess d'Eu 
 is a most agreeable person, with a strong, amiable face 
 and a cordial manner. I can easily imagine her 
 emancipating the slaves, but I cannot conceive of her 
 •lisposition to usvirp a government. The two yout'.g 
 sons bore themselves well, and I was quite impressed 
 with the Confidence with which they recei\ed the 
 kisses of the elderly persons, who raised their princely 
 hands to subject lips and bent their knees when the 
 little ones left the room. 
 
 The young Portuguese prince, Dom Manoel, was 
 christened yesterday, at Belem Palace, now occupied 
 by the King and royal family. The witnesses were 
 the iliplomatie corps, the members of the court, and 
 the ministry. The Queen Dowager looking very 
 lonely and i)ak', the King looking gratified and satis- 
 fied, the e.\-I'!mperor of llra/il looking old and worn 
 out, the Count de Paris looking cool and unemotional,
 
 166 A YHAR IN rORTUGAL. 
 
 and the young and deliberate Doni Affonso, were the 
 mcnibers of the royal family jiresent. Count Sabugosa, 
 clothed in a long ecclesiastical cloak spangled with 
 silver, bore the little prince from one point to another 
 in the room at the various steps in the ceremony, 
 which lasted about an hour. The Patriarch per- 
 formed the service, and the benignant Nuncio was 
 present. The name of the prince is Manoel — that is, 
 Manocl is the one out of the twenty by which he is 
 to 1>c calk'd. Dom Carlos was very cordial toward the 
 old deposed ]Cmi)eror, and crossed the room with 
 a very warm smile to take the feeble and venerable 
 personage from the diplomatic to the royal circle. 
 The Queen was not present. 
 
 I received to-day the following note from WHiittier: 
 
 "Mv Di:ak 1"kii:ni) : 
 
 " Tl was .1 very iK-autiful rmd filling tiling for the Minister 
 of the United Slates at Lisbon to olTer liis apartments to Dom 
 Pedro — the ijoblc ex-I'mperor ulio carries with him into retire- 
 ment the love and resjiect of the world. Will thee j^ive him 
 my siiuerest love and tell him that were o;ir dear Lonj^'fellow 
 living he would join me in affKtioiiale rememhrances. 
 " I am faitlifully tliy fiicnd, 
 
 "JOUN (;, WJII'ITII-K." 
 
 The Kmperor h.as gone to Coiml)ra and Oporto, 
 having been notified tliat the revdutionisls in Ih'a/.il 
 liad declared that he could not return {<-> his empire, 
 and that his stipend on tlic civil list of j^^rxj/Kxj is 
 withheld. lam half inclined to think that if he had 
 devoted himself to a standing army instead of a library 
 he might have ruled his empire. But then Whittier 
 and Ivongfellow woidd not have been with him.
 
 THE SQUADRON. 167 
 
 The United States Squadron of Ivvolution, having left 
 the festivities ajid attentions of New York and Boston 
 behind, sailed on the morning of Dec. 23d into the 
 Tagus, — with the exception f)f the Yorldoicn, which was 
 left in niid-occan, mi account of an accident, to seek ref- 
 tige in Fayal. Tlic white fleet shoue among its dingy as- 
 sociates in the harbor, and the Stars and Stripes floated 
 with a triiunphant air on the brce/e. The usual cour- 
 tesies were exchanged between Admiral Walker and 
 myself, and the officers of the ships were welcomed on 
 shore to an American <linner, and to an American 
 reception l)y Mrs. Coring, who gathered into our rooms 
 at the Braganza a brilliant assembly for a " five o'clock 
 tea." The guests at the dinner given to the Admiral 
 and his officers were Captain O'Kane, of the Ihnlon ; 
 Captain Howell, of the Atlanta: Connnodore Chad- 
 wick, of tile Yorklou'H ; Captain Reed, Conunander 
 Rush, and Captain Robeson, of the Chicai^o : Klag-Ivieu- 
 tenant Staunton, of the Admiral's stafT; the Minister 
 for I'oreign Affairs, the Minister of the Marine, the 
 Nuncio, the JJritish, I'Vench, Russian, Belgian, .Swed- 
 ish, and Si)ani.sh Ministers, and the Brazilian C/iar^r. 
 All natifjus agree in ;i diciiu, and in good wines, and in 
 a well decorated table ; and in this taste vSassetli, the 
 landlord of the Braganza, with his ])r<jfusion of fiowers 
 and his antique gold dinner service and his great 
 dining-room, maintained the re])Utation of his nation- 
 ality. Mrs. I/)ring was seated with the Minister for For- 
 eign AlTairs, Senhor Barros Gomes, on her right hand, 
 and the Nuncio on her left ; while I was supported by 
 Admiral Walker and tlie P.ritish Minister. The .scene 
 at the table was very brilliant, witli the imiforms of the 
 naval oflicers and the decorations of the foreign ministers.
 
 t6S A YEAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 For myself, I pcrroniied the part of toastmaster as 
 well as iK^st. StaLini^ that I had no desire to make an 
 after-dinntr speeeh, or to place any gentleman under 
 the necessity of responding to my call, unless liis 
 palri(Aic emotions or his natural enthusiasm should 
 compel him to speak, I did tliink tlie occasion called 
 for certain recognitions which I would present in the 
 form of sentiments. And so I gave : 
 
 " First, the health of His Majesty Dom Carlos I., in 
 whose dominions we have met. 
 
 " v'^ccond, the health of the President of the I'nited 
 States, under whose flag we have as>emblcil. 
 
 "Third, the Admiral of the United vStates vSquadrou 
 of Hvolution, engaged in a work t»f instruction ; a good 
 teacher in times of peace, and a brave conuuandcr in 
 time of war.'' 
 
 Senhor liarros Gomes, the Minister for Foreign 
 Affairs, rose innnediately and made a very neat and 
 friendly speech to the toast of " Tlie President " ; and I 
 announced that the intellectual part of the feast was 
 (ner. 
 
 Drrrmhcr 2<SIIt. — The ceremonies of coronation and 
 acclamation (jf the King Iiave taken ]>lace to-day. The 
 fact that these royal ceremonies have been described 
 often by those who have witnessed them in almost 
 every ]uiro])ean coinitry does n(;tfleter me from sketch- 
 ing the iiielh(;ds by which an heir to this ancient throne 
 is elevated to his j)lace of power. There may be, lliere 
 luidoubtedly are, more im])ONing disj)Iays than those 
 v.hich attend the seating of a king on the thnjiie of 
 Portugal ; and we cannot help recalling the imi)ressive 
 gathering of wealth and power and genius for rule 
 which collected around the young (^ueeu of England
 
 THE ACCLAMATION. 169 
 
 more than fifty years ago, when the statesmen and cap- 
 tains who had made her kingdom great and powerful 
 crowned her and blessed lier with the loyalty of vSons 
 and the afTection of parents. But this was Portugal, 
 the tragical little kingdom, with an ancient record of 
 wealth and power which all the modern conuucrce 
 of Ormuz and the Ind cannot equal, with a history 
 of maritime adventure whicli outshines the conquests 
 of Hastings and Clive, with aimals of wars who.sc 
 horrors and whose bravery and chivalry are not 
 overmatched by Marston Moor and Naseby, — Por- 
 tugal, which preserves still the remnants of its 
 ancient grandeur, and its obligations to the Church and 
 State which the greatest of its Johns atul AlTonsos 
 would recognize were they to return to the land of 
 which they were so proud. 
 
 The day of the coronation has been charming, Krom 
 the warships which were riding in the harbor of Lisbon, 
 and from all the forts, salvos of camion aimounced the 
 rising of the sun which illumined the imposing scene. 
 The waters of the river sparkled with the brilliancy of 
 a bright winter day ; the far-off mountains of tlic Arra- 
 bi<la were more imposing and solenm than ttsnal ; the 
 gray walls fjf Lisbon, so sombre and col<l, seemed to 
 assume a little light and life for the occasic^n. The flag 
 of the United States streamed from the masts of the 
 beautiful .sfpiadron of the Republic, and the ensigns of 
 iCngland, and Germany, and vSpain, and Portugal float- 
 ing together showed that for the hour at lenst there 
 was national harmony and peace. 
 
 At eleven o'clock we left the Hotel IJragan/.a to 
 witness the proceedings, atid the youthful e\es of 
 Hildreth, the boy of the family, for whom the pageant
 
 170 A YI;AR in I'OKTUCJAI.. 
 
 Iiad great fascinalictti, allowed no (Utail to escape ns, 
 Aviiile his pen has Ikvm busy with the recital. We 
 turned fn^ni the charming scene before onr windows 
 where in the morning hours we had admired the river 
 and the ships and the mountains beyond, and drove 
 through the Rna Jaquiera, the Rua Aterro de Uoa 
 Vista, and a new street entitled T)om Carlos I, to the 
 Cortes. The streets were lined with soldiers, and the 
 narrow sidewalks were crowded with peojde. The 
 great halls of the Palace of the Cortes, to whicli 
 we went, were thronged with niilitary bodies, who 
 represented the proviiices of the kingdom, and 
 brought w ith them assurances of loyalty and devotion, 
 and the silken regimental banners of Portugal, on 
 which were embroidered in gold and silver the arms of 
 the kingdom. ICntering the pal.ice, we were ushered 
 through long corridors h.ung with Turkish rugs ruid 
 Moorish tajjestries, and gu.irded by ahc^stof attend.ants, 
 ushers, an<l marshals, leading to the J,oge du Corps 
 Diplomatique, where we foiMid many of the ministers, 
 .secretaries, mid otltuh's (jf llic differeMt legations, ac- 
 C(;mpanied by the wife of the American Minister; 
 Madame ]>ill<jt, wife of the hVench Minister; Madame 
 WacckerOjtter, wife of the (rernian Minister; Mfllle. 
 de r.relle, daughter of the Iklgi.in Minister; Madame 
 Cotta, wife of the Italiau Secretary of Legation; and 
 the fair M.idame Gomes, representing the recent Ivmpirc 
 of I5ra/.il. Accompanying the A-merican Minister were 
 Admiral Walker, with I-lag-Lieutenant vStaunton, and 
 Captains Robeson, 0"Kane, Chadwick, and Commaiider 
 McCalla of the /:';//< v/rAr, whose uniforms seemed to 
 attract as nuicli attention as the brilliant array of the 
 King and his court. The galleries o])posite the T/)ge,
 
 Till; ACCLAMATION. 17t 
 
 and Ihe flor)r of llic great liall, \vcrc filled with olTicial 
 and iniolTicial people, whose generally sotnhrc apparel 
 was diversified by the display among the pcasantr>' 
 of pretty colored silk handkerchiefs and hats Jieatly 
 and co([uettishly adorned. 
 
 The Cortes below presented a most lively spectacle. 
 All the members were in full dress and many in bril- 
 liant uniform. They formed a .semicircle, in the middle 
 of which the private entrance and the aisle to the 
 throne were situated. Directly in front of the mem- 
 bers, and ])elo\v ns on the same side, was the royal 
 throne, which was enclosed witli gorgeous red velvet 
 curtains embroidered in silver and gold, and with long 
 silk and lace borders. At the top of the throne the 
 arms of Portugal and the royal escutcheon of the Cortes 
 were placed, all in gold set off with a brilliant jev.elled 
 background. After a somewhat tedious delay the air 
 was filled with martial music, and the heralds j^ro- 
 claimed the aj)j)roach of the King and Queen, with the 
 procession, led by the Master of Ceremonies, followed 
 by the Major Doino, the Duke of Loul6, who is the 
 Grand Chamberlain, bearing a huge golden key ; the 
 Cardinal of Lisbon, the Grand Almoner, the Master of 
 the Household, tlie Genlleinen-in-Wailing, a special 
 bo(l\--guar(l of .Senators and Deputies, and the PresidLiit 
 of the Council. After the attendants luul arranged 
 themselves in a double line to the throne the King and 
 Queen were announced. Soon the young .sovereigns 
 entered, the King a little in advance of the Queen, and 
 all the people, together with the Senators, IX-putics, 
 and Corps I)iplomati([ue arose and bowed low to them 
 as they advanced. It was indeed an iini)osing sight as 
 the royal couiile jxassed down the long line of glittering
 
 172 ^ YI:AR in F'fJl-'TI'rjAL 
 
 courtiers. TIk- Kiii^^ looked luippy, digiiincd, and 
 fully capable of pcrfoniiinj; the swcred duties about to 
 Ijc laid upon bis shoulders. He was attired in a band- 
 scMiie luiiforni of d:i.-k velvet and blue cloth, and on bis 
 right bivast be wore the three orders of Portugal, 
 decorations sparkling witli diamonds and precious 
 stones. ()\-er bis sbonlders an ermine cloak was 
 thrown, and at bis side a splendid sword was bung, 
 whose bilt was rielil>- adorned with sapphires, rubies, 
 and emeralds, brought in former days from tbe ricli 
 mines of Urazil. 
 
 Tile Queen Amelie accompanied him on bis rigbt, 
 and called fortb cheer after cheer as she fascinated 
 every one by her grace an<l youtbful beauty. The 
 Queen is very stately, an<i bore berself witb a dignity 
 appropriate to tbe occasion. She was very gracious; 
 and both the King and the Queen bowed most cour- 
 teously to the Corps Diplomatique and the Senators and 
 the peo])le. ,She was attire<l in a b-.-antiful couit dress 
 of while satin, covered witb the richest embroidery in 
 gold. Her coronation necklace, whicb forms a part of 
 the bereditar\' crown jewels and is celebrated for tbe 
 great .size and brilliancy of its rubies, attracted great 
 admiration. On cacb sboulder tbe ricb lace and gold 
 and silver triuimings were fistened by a diamond and 
 sapphire, cacb of great size and beauty. On ber bead 
 she wore a magnificent tiara of (lashing diamonds, 
 and in ber band she bore an exquisite fui adorned witb 
 emeralds and ])e.'uis. Hi-r train, six yards in lengtb, 
 of tunproisc veUxt embroidered with gold, was borne 
 l)y a lady-in-waiting. Ikbind ber walked twenty 
 ladies, who were declared to be tbe flower of Portu- 
 guese beauty.
 
 Till; ACCLAMATION. 173 
 
 Followiiij^ these came Prince Doni Affonso, in mili- 
 tary uniform with many decorations, the brother 
 of the Kin^, Commander-in-Chief of the Portuguese 
 armies, and Duke of Oporto. The Prince was accom- 
 panied by tlie Areh(hike of Austria. 
 
 The King and Queen were with nuich ceremony mar- 
 shalled to the throne, the golden curtains of which were 
 thrown back, disclosing a magnificent dais and two royal 
 chairs surmounted with crowns for their Majesties. 
 
 The sovereigns ascended the ste])s of the dais and 
 took their seats, the bearer of the Queen's train going 
 to the left with the Ladies-in-\\'aiting ; and Doni 
 AlTonso ascended the step next to the King, and, bear- 
 ing the great royal sceptre, stood there as the Royal 
 Sergcant-at-Arms. Then the Chand)erlain-in-\Vaiting 
 presented, on his bended knee, the royal .sceptre to-the 
 King. After this the Master of the Household, Master of 
 Horse, Commander (jf the Hody-guard, Master of Cere- 
 monies, and Grand Mistress of the Queen's Household 
 took their places on the highest ste]) at the right of the 
 dais ; and the Grand Almtjuer, Gentlemen of the House- 
 hold, and aides-de-camp of the King and the Royal 
 Standard-l)earer, with unfolded banner, were jilaceil. 
 Before the throne stood the Ministry — Senhorde Castro, 
 President of the Council, and vSenhor Ikirros Gomes, 
 Minister for I'oreign Affairs; and behind tl'.em the 
 Councillors of vState. On either side st<iod thcvSenators 
 and Deputies. The jiageant was mo>t brilliant. 
 
 As .soon as their Majesties were seated, the Coq)S 
 Dii>lomatique, Ministry, and Senators, Deputies and 
 the people followed their example. The President of 
 the Senate, with two high ofiicials on either side, 
 advanced, and presented to King Doni Carlcjs the
 
 174 A YnAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 " Santos Kvaugilos" with a cross laid iipoii it, and the 
 King changing his sccplrc to his left hand, i)laccd his 
 riglit on the book and Iioly cross, and repeated Article 
 76 of tlie Constitntion, and in a lond and steady tone : 
 
 " I .swear to u])hold the Catholic Apostolic Roman 
 Religion, the integrily of the kingdom, to o])servc and 
 cause to be ol^scrved the political Constitutiini of the 
 Portuguese nation and other laws of the kingdom, and 
 to ])r(jmote the general welfare of the nation to the best 
 of ni}- ability." 
 
 This oath having been taken, the King made a short 
 speech to tlie C(jrtes, in wliich he made many sensible 
 and forcible remarks, and the President of tlie vSenate 
 replied in the same manner, and turning to the Depu- 
 ties, made aeclamati<Mi in the.se words : 
 
 "To the very high and powerful and most faithful 
 King of Portugal, Dom Carlos I."; to which the mem- 
 bers of the Cortes gave their assent and declared strict 
 lioniagc to their sovereign. 
 
 As soon as the echoes fjf the acclamation had ceased, 
 the Standard-bearer, bearing his bauTier and bowing 
 ]irofoundly, stepped upon the tribune erected before 
 the centre windows of the Palace of the Cortes, accom- 
 panied by the King-at-Arms, the Pearers of the Mace 
 and vShields, and Heralds, the first of whom cried out 
 in a loud voice to the vast crowd of people assembled 
 below : 
 
 " Attention ! Attention ! Attention ! 
 Royal ! Royal ! Royal ! 
 \'ery powerful and most I'aithful 
 King oC P(jrtugal, Dom ('arlos I." 
 
 And thus ended tlie acclamation.
 
 THE ACCLAMATION. 175 
 
 When the King-at-Anns liad given the acclamation 
 to the people, the cry of " Duni Carlos is crowned" 
 was borne from rank to rank, ana all the soldiers joined 
 in a long and mighty cheer for the young sovereign. 
 Soon after this the King gave the signal to the Depu- 
 ties who stood around the throne for their departure 
 for the Church of vSan Domingos. 
 
 Having made most courteous salutations to the 
 Corps Diplomaticiue in return for those they received 
 fr(«n the asseinbly in the Logc, their Majesties retired 
 from tlie chamljcr, entered the great golden coach of 
 state, and diove to the cliurch to join in the Te Deum, 
 Of course tlie occupants of the Loge followed, and 
 many of them "got there first." 
 
 From the tribune provided for foreign mitiisters in 
 the churches when royal ceremonies are performed an 
 admirable view of the interior of these sacred .structures 
 is obtained. The Church of vSan Domingcis is one of 
 the finest in Lisbon. The walls are l)eautifully sculp- 
 tured ; the dome and roof are adonied with gorgeous 
 tapestries and silken hangings, interspersed with fine 
 old Portuguese banners. The floral decorations were 
 superb on this occasion. The pews and scats in the nave 
 of tlic church were also decorated, and the floor was 
 covered with a rich red vchet carpet embroidered with 
 gold. The tribunes erected on each sitle of the altar 
 for the state ofllcials and the diplomats were also deco- 
 rated with rich gold hangings. The church is a most 
 ex(iui>ile and eflective piece of architecture, adorned 
 with many religious designs in marble — the sides of the 
 altar being beautifully carved and upheld by small 
 pillars wrought in silver and gold. In the middle of 
 the altar, covered with fine, white, transparent curtains
 
 17^» A Yr:AR IN I'DKTl'GAL. 
 
 were three bcanliful staUKS in reli.^ious and holy atti- 
 liuk-s, rei)rcsenlini; Clirist with the X'iri^in and the 
 Holy Ghost on either hand. They were adorned with 
 the most gor;-;eous vestments. Above thc-ni, on the 
 t')2)f>f the nllar, are life-si/.e and miniature .statues of 
 the apostles and many .saints, over all of which was 
 .shed the soft light of numerous large tapers and 
 candles. 
 
 vShortly after our arrival at the church the royal 
 rortl'^c' was announced. Looking down along the nave, 
 one couhl .see the soldiers and the Ko\;d Guard sta- 
 tioned at the entrance j)resent arms and dip the royal 
 b.'inners as the long ])rocession of ancient coaches, which 
 h;ive api)eared on all royal ])ublic occasions I ha\-e wit- 
 nessed drew u]) — the great gilt carriages of state, with 
 the crown of Portugal jierchetl high on their roofs, 
 and their wide glass sides decorated witli gill <lesigns, 
 their huge fr;imes ])onderous with heavy carvings, mid 
 drawn by eii^ht milk-white steeds richly caparisoned 
 with hea\-ily mounted harnesses and velvet blankets 
 and lumsings edged with .^^ilver and gold and the 
 crown handsomely worked on each. The horses were 
 ridden by youthful postilions dres.sed in the King's 
 livery, while the ])owerless and imposing coachman 
 sat in all his stateliness on the box grasping the im- 
 mense bundle of reins. The royrd coach cont.aining 
 the King and Oueen, presenting a vastly magnified 
 scene in '' Cinderella," attended by a special guard (;f 
 honor, tw()e<pierries, and tri])le fdesof Gentlemen of the 
 Royal Household, was drawn up Itefore the entrance, 
 and the Royal j)air alighted, a.ssisted by a special envoy 
 of the ecclesiastics having the Carrlinal and Chapter at 
 their head, .and bearing ;i most sumptuous palainpiin
 
 Tlin ACCLAMATION. 177 
 
 made of rich silk finely worked and cnilx)sscd with 
 gold. This was supported by four bishops, and be- 
 neath it the King and Queen advanced down the long 
 nave followed by a great procession of all the ecclesias- 
 tics of Lisbon, as fir as the altar, receiving the saluta- 
 tions of tlie Dij^loinatic Corps, vScnators, and Deputies, 
 and a crowd of high officials in the body of the cathe- 
 dral. Having received the Papal blessing at the altar 
 they were escorted to the throne, where they remained 
 while the Te Deuni was given during long hours by a 
 band and choir of great i)o\ver situated in a gallery 
 over the entrance. 
 
 After the Archbishop of Lisbon had offered up the last 
 prayer for the welfare of their Most I'ailhful Majesties 
 and the Te Deuni had been sung, the King and Queen 
 departed in tlie same order as tliey had entered, taking 
 their .seats in the royal carriage, and were followed by 
 their attendants. The Papal Nuncio, in his violet cap 
 and robes, with his wealth of splendid jewels, having 
 received the homage of the priests, joined the departing 
 jirocession. 
 
 The ne.xt step in these performances was the recep- 
 tion -of the city keys at the Municipal Hall. The 
 decorations here were beautiful, tlie great portico being 
 profusely adorned with palms, furns, aiul tnipical i>lauts, 
 and the interior of the building being covered with 
 masses of flowers, with which Portugal is supplied 
 throughout the year. (")pi)ii>ite the entr.ance stood a 
 thn)ne decorated with military and royal designs in 
 roses, on which their Majesties sat during the final 
 ceremonies of the C(jronation. The President of the 
 Municipality advanced to tlie foot of the thrt)ne, and 
 on bended knee offered the keys to the " fiithful ancl 
 
 13
 
 178 A yi;ak in vortvcm. 
 
 august moiiarchs." Tlie Kiuj; received the poudcrous 
 binicli, and, lifting it from the golden salver on which 
 it lay, signified his assent to the guardianship and then 
 returned it to the President, who followed in a speech 
 cxi)laining the ancient custom and its significance of 
 the (obedience and royal faitlifulness f)f the Muin"cipality 
 oi' I,isl)(Mi. To this King Carlos rcplictl thai, he relied 
 on (he (onfidenie, fidrlily. an*! loyalty of the " C'ily 
 I'athers " to guard and protect his capital. At the 
 close of this interchange of speeches, the l/)rd Mayor, 
 saluting the King, i)assed to the balcony and pronounced 
 the second civic acclamation of the King in the f(;llo\v- 
 ing words ; 
 
 "This Very High, Very Mighty, and Most I-\iillnul 
 King <;f Portugal Dom Carlos I." 
 
 The cheers of the people atid sa/vos of cannon con- 
 firmed this acclamation, and the Kitig and Queen 
 departed to their palace at Pelem. 
 
 The reign of Dom Carlos liad begun, and according 
 to the course of nature it i)romises to last for many 
 years. He is 1)ut twenty-six years old, in liigh health, 
 l;appy in his domestic relations, and not burdened by 
 the cares of a great empire. I liave given this elaborate 
 account of the ceremonies of coronation, with the 
 assistance of "The Poy's " keen observatiosi, because 
 the scene is uiui^urd in these modern days, and retains 
 much of the jvMiip and glitter of the ])ast, when great 
 display was a vital feature of royalty in the al)sence 
 of deei)er significance. It was easy to imagine Dom 
 Manoel filled with pride and loa'led with wealth by the 
 discoveries and conquests in India, passing from i)alacc 
 to church and the great ludl, daz/ling an awe-stricken 
 people, and assuming the reins of power. Whatever
 
 THE PALACES. 179 
 
 may have been the spirit of the occasion, so changed 
 from the ancient grandeur, the external emblems still 
 remained, and in the presence of the deputies of the peo- 
 ple, the customs and insignia <jf absolute iniperialism 
 were paraded and admired. In hardly any other coun- 
 try in luiropc could this be seen ; and it is itnpressive, 
 interesting, and !i<bnii;d»lc to witness a jicoplc with an 
 nnciriit lineage ami an imposing u-cord preserving the 
 customs which were esta!)lishe<l in their days of power 
 and prosperity. If you would see the glory of the past 
 and the i)romise of the present, go to a coronation in 
 Lisbon with its gilded chariots and its popular assembly. 
 The royal family of Portugal has many palaces to 
 which, like the Persian kings, it can resort at the 
 different seasons of the year. They are all charming 
 residences, and many of them display great architectural 
 and decorative beauty. P.elem, to which I)om Carlos 
 and his (jueen resorted after the coronation, and which 
 has long been their favorite abode, is situated high 
 above the river bank, not far from the tower whicli is 
 so cimspicuous an object as you sail up the Tagus. The 
 building was purchased by Dom John V. in 1726, and 
 is built after tlie maiu\er of a gentleman's residence. 
 A few busts of Roman emperors adorn the walls, and 
 a Hue bust of King Jolin V. The gardens, orange 
 groves, and terraces are very fine, and are adorned with 
 a group of Hercules beheading the hydra of I,ernea, .1 
 statue representing the death of Cleopatra, and one of 
 Charity, The comfort and convenience, as well as the 
 beauty, of Pelem are especially attractive. 
 
 The Palace of Das Necessidades .stands also in the 
 western extremity of Lisbon, commanding a magnifi- 
 cent view of the Tagus, and ci)nsists of the palace
 
 180 A YHAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 ]>r()pcr, the cluirch, and Uk- u])pcr palace, fonncrly a 
 couNX'iit. It was built by Doiu John V. on a spot once 
 occu])ic'l by a ])oor mechanic who Hcil from ICriccira to 
 escape the plaj^Mie, and, takinj^^ up Ills quarters at 
 Alcantara, erected a smnll shrine for an inia;.;e of our 
 Lady of Ile.'dth, wliich he bronv;'it with him. He 
 fledieated his ("hapcl to our Lady under t)je titU: of " Re- 
 liever of (Mir Necessities." h'or this itna^'je ])oni Jolni 
 had special veneration, and attributed to the prayers 
 addressed to lier his rcccnery fmni a d.an;.^erous illness 
 in 1742. I-'illed with ^M'.ititudc, he erected tlie btiildings 
 now known as Das Xeces^idades, and which have 
 ahv.'iNs been a f;ivorite resort for the roy.'d ftmijy, Doni 
 l''ernan<lo nndc this Iii-^ Iiome, rni'l it was ln-re that 
 Dom Au;.',usto died Iri.t summer. The statue of San 
 Carlo I'»orromeo constitutes about all the art to be 
 found (<n the spul ; but the t^ardeiis are especi.ally 
 attractive. The buildin^;s and ;j^rounds make a ^reat 
 and imposinj.^ estate. 
 
 Tile Palace of the Aju<la, wliich I have already 
 described, !>^ now occupie'i by the Dowager-f^ueen 
 M;uia I'ia ; it is the most attractive and perfect i)alace 
 of all those dedicated to ]'ortu;^MUSe royalty. 
 
 The Palace ui I'cm])osta, built in iy<n) by Catharine 
 of I5nij^an/,a, dauy.hter of John I V, of Portuj^al, and 
 widow of Charles II. <;f ICnj^^land, has but little archi- 
 tectural merit. It has a few y^ood pictures. It has 
 been used f >r a Ion;.; time .as a military school ; and on 
 the ^ror.nds I)ojn Pedro Y. erected a hoS])ital in memory 
 of his queen, Dona ]'*staj)hania. 
 
 The Palace of Ca.xias is occupie<l by tlie royal family 
 only in the batliing season. The royal palace at Cintra, 
 to wliich I have referred .so often, is used as a summer
 
 Till: PALACFiS. l8l 
 
 resklence for a few weeks. And in the old palatial 
 fortification at Cascaes, at once fort and ])alace, Dotn 
 Luis died in September last — in that autunni home to 
 whicli he resorted an;uially for the sea-breezes and the 
 view of the ocean, which his yonthfitl exiK-rieiice as a 
 sailor had t:inj;lil him to love. The old I'lilice of the 
 'relies at Coiiiibra, now deserted, is visited f(»r its tra^dc 
 history ; and Mafra is only nsed ;is a hotel while the 
 Kin^ shoots in the royal preserves. 
 
 In all the ^reat cities and important towns of Portugal 
 are the imposing, ;ind in many cases abaiidoned, resi- 
 dence's of the f)nce prond and noble families who upheld 
 the power of the kingflom in the d.iys of its prosperity. 
 'J'hey tell a tale of afflntnce and regal sjiletidor which 
 wa'^ n<*t surpassed in the da>s of tlnir j»rosi)erity by 
 any country in ICurope. The^y shared with the monas- 
 teries the luxury of Portug.al. and witne»ed the social 
 refinement which wealth .and cultiwUed association 
 always bring. A climate which ga\e twehe months 
 of refulgence surrounded these homes with all the 
 beauties of nature, and the groves and gardens planted 
 1))- u\i\n. 'i'lieir literature was the romantic and tender 
 \-erse of Miranda and l\il>e\ro, and the vigorons and 
 inspiring epic of C.iniotns. To the nobility of Portug.il 
 its coiuitry owe-, nnich of its power in foinur da\s, and 
 nnich of that ambition which gave biith to those long 
 and bloody conflicts which de-^trowd iiulustry, ])re- 
 \-ented intellectual culture, and t^xhanstcd the tone 
 and force of the peo])k'. 
 
 Tile King, for who^e purposes these pahuxs have 
 been erected, and for who.-^e friends the dwellings were 
 I)rovi(led. has gre.it power in Portugal. The Constitu- 
 ti<jn of the kingdom, after declaring that Portugal is a
 
 l82 A YHAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 free and independent state, declares also that the person 
 of the King is inviolable and sacred ; and he is not 
 responsible to any one. He can adjourn the Cortes 
 and dissolve the Chamber of Deputies in cases in which 
 the salvation of the state may re(iuire it — convoking 
 imine<liately a substitute at his will. lie can a])point 
 and dismiss at his pleasure the ministers of state ; and 
 can suspend magistrates on account of complaints made 
 against them. He can gi\-e or deny his apjMoval 
 of the decrees of the Cortes, Apostolic letters, and 
 other ecclesiastical institutions i)rovided by the Cortes. 
 "The King consents," is the approval of the decrees 
 of the Cortes, and the bills when signed are forwarded 
 to the municipalities. Ag;u'nst the \-eto of the King 
 there is no appeal. The Cortes fi.Kes ainiually on in- 
 formation from the government, the King, and his 
 ministers, the si/.e of the army and navy. It authorizes 
 the government to contract h^ans ; au'l establishes the 
 means of paying the ])ublie debt. 
 
 The King, J)om Carlos I., has all the (juabties to 
 make an exerllcut ruler. He has a stn»ng coiisiitulion 
 and sound h'';dlh, an<l llie comjjosure which goes with 
 them. He is fond of and well informed iti all the needs 
 and i)ro(esses of Portuguese agriculture ; and has large 
 interests in that industry. He is f^nd of rural sports, 
 and is one of the best sIkAs in JCurope, He is not 
 inclined to contention, but, judging from his mtjral and 
 physical organization, he possesses great determination 
 and force in an emergency — a quality inherited from 
 his mother, Maria Pia, the pride of the Portuguese. 
 He is proud of his country, and cherishes her honor 
 with a warm ajipreciation of her past and strong faith 
 in l;er future.
 
 TUB DINNER. tSj 
 
 To the usual festivities of this season have this year 
 been added the ceremonies of the coronation with its 
 fonnahties and banciuets. I had introduced Admiral 
 Walker and the ofTicers of tlie scjuadron to the King, 
 and lie was kind cnonj;h to invite them to the corona- 
 lion dinner. It was a season of i;reat rejoicinjj; — 
 Christmas, New Year, an openint; reign, and all the 
 rejoicing that goes with such occasions. The weather 
 was such as we find at this season in I'lorida ; the sky 
 was bright and the air as soft as in our simthern lati- 
 tudes ; and as I sit at my window at the Braganza, 
 with the rosy western sky in which the sun is just set- 
 ting casting a shade of beauty over the broad bay lying 
 between me and the far-off hills across the water, it 
 seems as if the eailh was busy reconciling those of lis 
 who remain to the loss of those who are gone. 
 
 After our own dinner to the ofTicers of the squadron, 
 and the Te Deum at the church, there was the royal 
 ba!i(|nvt al the Ajuda on Sunday evening, at which the 
 King and the ministers and court offici.als, the ofi'icers 
 of the army and navy, the Diplomatic Corps, the 
 Arcliduke- of .\nstria, and the di-nitai ies of the Church 
 weie ]>ii-vnl niunbering a liltle more than two hun- 
 dred. 'I'he dining liall al llie ,\jnda is large and fine. 
 The frescos of the ceiling are superb, and the tinting 
 of the walls is a soft ashes-of-roses color, with gilt 
 surroundings, which give great eflVct to the light shed 
 by thousands of candles from sui)erb cut-glass chande- 
 liers. Two long tables, ruiniing the length of the hall, 
 which is more than a hundred feet, acconunodated the 
 guests, at one of which, in tlie centre of the long side, 
 sat the King, and at the other of which sat the Oueen. 
 The tables were decorated witli flowers, and were
 
 184 A YCAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 adorned with heavy j;oldcn candelabra in llie regions 
 of the Kin}^ and Oueen, and witli lonj^ lines of silver 
 candlesticks stretchinj^ away to the ends. The table- 
 service was extremely pretty, of Minturn and Dresden 
 and silver i)late. I am ob]i.^ed to confess to the solem- 
 nity of the diiuier, and to compliment the wines, which 
 were excellent. 
 
 The quests were of course attractive, Madame de 
 Serpa, the wife of the ex-PrLinier, .sat on my left — a 
 most cheerful and brii;ht companion. Mrs. Loring was 
 taken in to di.nier by the Premier vSenhor Luciano de 
 Castni. She sat at the King's table, directly opposite 
 to him, with the Grand Chamberlain, Count Ficalho, 
 on lu.-r left. 
 
 After a two hours' session at the tviblcs, we ad- 
 journed to the thr(jne-room. where their Mr.jesties gave 
 a reception, which continued mitil c)ne o'cloi-k. The 
 l.'idies as usvial occupied one side of the room, and the 
 gentlemen the other. Tl:e King])assed from one gentle- 
 man to another, and chatted either as a leader or as a 
 follower, as he and his interlocutor found most con- 
 venient. The Oueen pursued the same course towards 
 the ladies, until they had all had their little interview, 
 and then she wandered away into the middle of the 
 ro(jm to receixe the gentlemen, whom she called out 
 from the group, or who ventured to ai)i)roach her un- 
 bidden. I jnesented Admiral Walker to her, and they 
 had a long and of course interesting talk. Later on 
 .she received her guests sitting. She was magnificently 
 dressed, her jewels being brilliant, a necklace, tiara, and 
 brooch of j^reat emeralds atid diamonds. I ler dress was 
 emerald velvet. She was really <piile sj leiidid with lier 
 superb attire and jewels and erect form and. dark hair
 
 THE KING. 185 
 
 and black eyes. Her niaiiiicr is most simple and 
 unaflcclecl. 
 
 We all stood far into the night, and returned home 
 in a light rain, quite exhausted. The Admiral and his 
 companions found the landing-gates locked and spent 
 an extra hour or two in getting to their shii)s. 
 
 jfanuajy jsl. — To-day we have had a New Year's 
 receptitjn at the same palace. The Diplomatic Corps 
 was received fust, as usual, the ladies forming a line 
 on one side of the room and the gentlemen on the 
 other at an angle. The King and Queen walked along 
 the lines and welcomed each person in a kindly speech. 
 The King deplored the death of the ICmpress of 
 Brazil, and spoke of the revolution there as sad work. 
 He was nuich interested in the accomit I gave him of 
 Mr. Whittier's letter. The regulation dress on such 
 occasions is for gentlemen the luiiform of his legation, 
 and for ladies a train three yards in length, with ex- 
 tremely scanty supply of dress on the shoulders. Hlue 
 and white intermingled are forbidden, as that is the 
 court dress of ladies-in-waiting. While all this was 
 going on, the side of the room opposite the ladies was 
 filled with a highly decorated and uniformed group of 
 ministers, generals, peers, and gentlemen-in waiting, 
 ^\\\(^ stood their ground until the Diplomatic Corps had 
 been received, and then opened to let them jiass out. 
 
 WIku I left tlie King's quarters of the palace, I 
 went to the apartment of the Queen Dowager, and 
 recorded my name and Mrs. Loring's, and thence to 
 Das Necessidades to record my own in the book of the 
 Archduke of Austria, who is domiciled there, and 
 thence to call on the Germ.in Minister; and finally to 
 tlie quiet of my own room in the braganza.
 
 CHAPTHR X. 
 
 BRAZIL.-nOM PF.DRO.-FINANCIAL POLICY.— OPIN- 
 ION OF AC^.ASSIZ.-CONTROVFRSY 
 WITH FNGLAND. 
 
 yanuaty lo, iSgo. — In tlic Emerson liirtlulay Book 
 which lies on our ccntrL'-lal)l(.' are recorded the names 
 of Gokhvin vSniilh. Jam<:s C. IMaine. J. R. Lowell, \V. 
 W. Story, Iv. IC. Hale, and many more sij^naturcs of 
 distin;.M)i:-.li<;d and imjiortant men ; and amon;^ them, 
 in a fcf III'- liand, the name.- ajjjx'ars of Doui I'cdro 
 fl'AlfYintara, 1.HS5. 'Die old man is tin- i-x-ICmpcror 
 of J{ra/.il, who had abdicated on the lolh of Dccimhcr, 
 iS.Hy, and had returned to the Find of his fathers to 
 close one act in the extraordinary drama of the IJra- 
 gan/.a family. To his {grandfather Brazil was a refuge 
 of safety during the Napoleonic wars of iStjj ; and his 
 father held ])ossession of the throne as regent during 
 the time when the indepeuflcnce of I'.ra/.il was ac- 
 kncnvledged, and a new empire was enrolled among 
 the im))erial dynasties of the world. It is true the 
 l)oliti(;d heavens were stormy when Dom John the 
 gran<lfather ceased lo reign ; and Dom Pedro ascended 
 the thr(;ne. The presence of the refugee King of Por- 
 tugal was exceedingly irritating to the pecjple, and their 
 restlessne>s continued until iS4(j, when the ICmperor 
 r)(;ni Pedro II. commenced his reign. The task he
 
 nUA/.IL. 187 
 
 had assumed was by no incaiis an easy one. The jx-o- 
 ple liad had a taste of freedom, and what seemed to 
 tlicm self-govennnent. They had secnred a constitu- 
 tion, liad defied tlie decree of tlie Cortes at Lisbon, 
 liad inchiced Dom Pedro to assume the reins of gov- 
 ernment, and had defeated an attempt of the Portu- 
 guese troops to reduce them to obechence as a colony. 
 The insurgents took control, held the power of the 
 Council, and proclaimed the Prince as peq>etual de- 
 fender of Bra/.il. It was he who in 1S22 i)roclaimcd the 
 independence of Brazil, and secnred for himself the 
 l)osition ofci.nislitiitional Ivmperor. Iliscareer, however, 
 was short and n(A fortunate. He was a Bragan/a and 
 a Portuguese, and believed in the power of Portugal, 
 and loved her ways and traditions ; and when he was 
 ])r(»claimed King of Portugal, he relurn(.(l to his native 
 country and the asNO<iatious of lii^ >(>uth, not, how- 
 e\er, to peace and prosperity. lie had succeeded in 
 disaffecling the Hra/ilians, e\en aflir he had abdicated 
 the throne <>f Portugal in favor of his daughter Dona 
 Maria, and he was ])lunged into the ci\il convulsions 
 of 1.S2S in Portugal, when ])om Miguel usurped the 
 Porluguoe crown, and a radical Cham1)er of Deputies 
 in I>ra/.il, by their innovations, made even stormy Por- 
 tugal seem like a ha\'en of rest. After failing to form 
 a new ministry and to restore order in his empire, he 
 .abdicated the throne in disgust, leaving it to the heir 
 apparent, then fi\e years old, Dom Pedro II., who, 
 sixty ye.irs after, followed his ancestors to their old 
 home and to the charity and kindness of imperialism 
 in ICurope. 
 
 When Dom Pe<lro I. left Brazil and i)lunged into the 
 Miguelile contests in Portugal, the empire which he
 
 ISS A Yl Al' IN \-()i'\\'(,M.. 
 
 had ])assc(I into llic liaiids of his infant .son was in great 
 c-onHision. A r^^^c-ik.)' of llitxc nicinhers, a single re- 
 gent, chosen by kgislati\-e assenihlies, an appnxic-h to 
 tlie foiin of government i>f the l'nili.(l Stales, a regent 
 char;;e(i with connix'ing at reheilit^n in the i)rovinees, a 
 regent wlio attempted to play the ]>art of monarch and 
 conflicting councils, — all drove IJra/il to resorting to 
 the no\el expedient of declaring the majority of a boy 
 of foniteen, and ])roclaiming him ruler of the empire. 
 
 The i)ath which led to the throne was not promising. 
 This youth, who had been educated with great care, 
 and who had by nature a fnie mental cajxicity and 
 a high moial instinct, fomid himself surrounded by most 
 difiicult (piestions of ci\-il jtolity and by mar.y domestic 
 dissensions. The abolil'-m of the sla\e trade and the 
 connneiicement of emancipati(Mi claimed hisearly atten- 
 tion, lie inaugurate<l extra\;igant schemes of internal 
 improvement, which have addeil greatly to the strength 
 and importance of lira/.il. He carried (;n expensive 
 wars with neighboring states. His army was main- 
 tained at an enormous expense. I lis resources were 
 increased, howe\'er, in pro])ortion. and Iha/.il was 
 counted among the \igorous and ]»rosperous empires 
 of the woild. 
 
 Hut it was .-IS a i>atron of letters and a student of 
 science that I)om Pedro became most distinguished and 
 was esteemed by scholars throughout the world. When 
 he appeared in Lisbon, an exile from his empire, an 
 enfeebled and disheartened old man, I remembered him 
 not as the great ruler but as the friend of Agassi/, and 
 the .scholars of the United vStates. I recalled the time 
 when the great scientist took with him to I'ra/.il a small 
 flock of Merino sheep, which I sent to the J-'mpenjr,
 
 and whicli I was flattered to IkHcvc would increase the 
 wool i)roducls of the empire. I had in \uy mind the 
 active and entluisiastic observer who, at the Centennial 
 Ivxhil)iti<jn at Philadelphia, took the early morning 
 hours for visitinj^ the j^aeat hall, and disco\ered by 
 sim])ly passing his eye down rui imnien>e column of 
 figures that the secretary of a school board had made 
 a mistake in his addition of the educational statistics 
 of his state — an error which the ICmperor had discov- 
 ered at a glance, and in which more careful computation 
 proved that he was correct. 
 
 While in Li^^bon, ])om Peilro was active in his 
 explorations of the city.. His venerable face might be 
 seen in the museums and lil)raries, and he enjoyed 
 gre.'itly his walks through the /.ofdogical garden. 
 
 He waited uneasily for the ]',!n5>rcss to recover from 
 an attack of influen/.a. and hurried away with her to 
 Coiu'.bra — a d;uigerous, and, as it jnoved, fatal, journey 
 to her in mid-winlcr. I saw him on his return to Lisbon, 
 in the j)rocessi<)n at the funeral of the I\mpress in the 
 Ingle/.a St. \'incenteda P'ora, and sitting in a distrcs.sed 
 and distracted way in the rosal box over the altar a.S 
 the service was performed over her remains. And the 
 last I saw of him he was feebly following her into the 
 Pantheon prepared for all the Braganzas here on earth. 
 A few days after he left the Palace of Das Xecessidades, 
 which had been given him as a home during this .sad 
 occasion, and proceeded to the mild airs atid cheerful 
 ways of Cannes. 
 
 I doubt if history has recorded a sadder and more 
 interesting and instructive career than that of the 
 ex-l-anperor of Iha/.il. He began life as a ruler, when 
 he should ha\-e Ixen learning to obi-y. He inherited a
 
 i',«) A vi;ak in i'()Kti'(}ai.. 
 
 stormy ciiipirc, a r-sUcss people \\\u) were ;i(l\;incing 
 from tlic ^^li'.ler and display and aiilliorily of a ukjii- 
 arehy to the freedom and elasticity of a re])ublic. His 
 people, Avlieu he commenced his nilc, were hardly fit 
 for one i^overnment or another. Their experience with 
 imperial rulers had not l>eeu fortunate, nor were the 
 passing events in that country whence they and their 
 rulers sprang encouraging. Brazil was not organi/.ed 
 into an empire, nor was she fit to he a republic. It fell 
 to the task of Doin Pedro to prepare her for both, — with 
 what success the result now shows. War during all 
 these years hardened lier for imperial methods — while 
 educatif)n was cultivating her ])e')ple for a republican 
 one. In leaving one she has hardly slep[)ed into the 
 ways of the other. lint mankind le;irns easily how to 
 be free in these days, .and how to estal>lish republics, 
 but not how to return to m<inarchy when the bonds .are 
 once broken. 
 
 It is not worth while to discuss the chances, or the 
 trials wliich threaten Brazil, or the wisdom of Fonseca, 
 or the strength of the local go\-ernments which make 
 up tlie union of lira/.ilian states. We can only hope 
 that justice will prevail and wisdom will rule aiid per- 
 sonal ambition will be either cliecked or guided aright, 
 and the lesson of confederation will be so thoroughly 
 learned that d.isunion will not follow. It is well enough 
 to leave Brazil to her fate and her capacity to settle 
 lier own problem politically and industrially. Her 
 legislatures, her municipal governments, her e<lucation, 
 her religion, her firms, her mills, her conunerce, her 
 finances, all her economies now interest the civilized 
 world. For her guidance and instruction she has the 
 example of a powerful and succes-ful republic on her
 
 DOM \'r.\W(\ 19t 
 
 own hcmisplicre, which has established its government 
 on firm and well-understood fmnidations, and its pros- 
 perity on the elastie industry and broad sagacity of a 
 free people. 
 
 That the time had arrived for a change in the 
 Brazilian goveriuuent there can be no doubt. The 
 I'imperor was beloved as a ruler and rcs|K'Cted as a 
 cultivated .scholar, who had brought his empire into 
 close relations with the literary and .scientific associa- 
 tions of the world. I lis devotion to industrial im- 
 provement was recognized, and his humanity and 
 philanthropy were known and admired. He failed, 
 liowever, to lead his people out of the political compli- 
 cations and misfortunes which couuueiiced in the early 
 colonial da>s. I'^xclusive in its relations with other 
 countries, with a population divided into slaves and 
 subjects about equally, oppressed with ignorance, de- 
 prived of education, the abiding-plaee of a Portuguese 
 king in whom the people had no interest, Brazil could 
 neither liold an imperial attitude nor could she join the 
 neighlx)ring South American states in their progress 
 toward republicanism. The royal family, who arrived 
 there in 1S07, were entirely unable to control affairs, and 
 in 1S22 the regent, proposing to abandon his post, was 
 informed that a republican party existed already in 
 all the jirovinces of lirazil. From the time when IVmi* 
 Pedro I. accepted the crown, and the independence 
 of Brazil was declared, to iS;,i, when he abdicated, the 
 nun inurings of Reind)licans were heard and the morn- 
 ing light seemed to be breaking. Day, however, broke 
 slowly, and the advent of Dom Pedro II., who on 
 I)(jcend)er 17th left the empire to be reorganized, 
 lulled the people into ac(iuiescence with imperial
 
 192 A Y1;AK in iHjRTl'CiAI.. 
 
 jxiwcr, and into the hope and exiKctation that the 
 evils wliicli weighed upon llicin wouhl be entirely 
 removed without any effort of their own. Reform and 
 the empire seemed, however, to he incoiwpatible. Dom 
 I'edro 1 1, desired the emancipation ofthe slaves through- 
 out his dominions, but when emancipation came the 
 corner-stone of the empire was destroyed. Dissatisfied 
 ])lanters ha<l no further U'-e for that f «rm of g'jvernment. 
 ICxisting social e\ils were not so easily removed. The 
 .absence of any civil marriage law rendered the ceie- 
 moJiy ecclesiastical, and so cxpensi\e that the conunon 
 people were de])rived of this foundatif)U <if s(;ciety — and 
 the conse(iuenccs are easily imagined. The distribution 
 of real and ])crsonal projKrty in i)robate is discouraging, 
 apparently unju>t, atid in many ca^-cs destructive. 
 Government in the provinces has l>een extremely irre- 
 spojisible and ineffective, the ])residents being appointed 
 by the J'.mjx-ror and the legislatures being comjM)sed 
 of young and inex])ericnced jxirtisans. IClections to 
 the Chamber of Deputies have been controlled by the 
 government, and the members have been elected 
 throui;h the inlluence of the im])erial organization. 
 There has hartlly been found a more perfect illustration 
 of an empire with a legislative attachment tlum 15ra/.il. 
 In addition to other comi)]ications, the cotniection of 
 the cluirch with the state lias always given rise to 
 great difllctdties, atid has hardly been conducive to the 
 ]jrogre^s of the country. 
 
 The financial policy c)f Uie emjiire has not Ikcu sati.s- 
 factory, T:i.xes have been imposed with great in- 
 equality, .and sometimes with ruinous effect upon the 
 industries. Contrary to the theories of many modern 
 doctrinaires, land when held in large estates has been
 
 FINANCIAL r-OLlCY. I93 
 
 almost exempt froiji taxation. The railway system of 
 the country is extravagantly managed, rates of traffic 
 and passage being exorbitant, and the property unpro- 
 ductive. Nothing has been done to develop the internal 
 connnerce of the empire. 
 
 The resources of IJrazil have always been unbounded, 
 whether of field or forest or mine. In the early colonial 
 days the wealth of precious stones and metals which 
 poured into Portugal was incalculable, and astonished 
 all ICurope, while it encouraged the wildest i)nblic and 
 private extravagance in the government and people 
 who received it. Xor is this wealth i>erccplibly ex- 
 hausted. The fortunes now existing in I'ortui^al were 
 largely acquired in Brazil. In September, 1866, the 
 Amazon was opened to the commerce of the world ; 
 and led into a country fertile beyond description. 
 Agassiz, who visited it in 1S65, was charmed and 
 astonished by the luxuriance of vegetation found on 
 every hand. The great watercourses — the Amazon, a 
 hundred miles wide at its mouth, and so broad a thou- 
 .sand miles above that a j)laiu view of both shores 
 is almost impossible — filleil him with amazement. 
 Water communication affords an easy access to the 
 fields and forests which are only waiting to reward the 
 cnteq-)rising and industrious .settler. Fruits and nuts 
 aboiuid throughout all this great Amazon region, rare 
 woods of every description are easily obtained, and 
 their only market is the decay with which nature 
 disjK)ses of lier surplus products. The climate is de- 
 lightful. The thermometer never rises above 90"^ and 
 ne\er falls below 78°. The trade-winds which sweep 
 across the Atlantic cool the wide valley ()f the great 
 river to the very foot of the Andes, making day and 
 13
 
 194 A YFAR IX TORTl'GAL. 
 
 night comfortable, "Such a delicjous climate," says 
 Agassiz, "I believe exists iiowliere else on earth." 
 Tlie soil, created in tlie same manner as the drift-beds 
 of New I'aij^laiid, " rich because it is the result of the 
 attrition of the most <liversined rocks," whieh is "the 
 most fertile soil all o\(.r the suifiee of llie earlh," 
 (offers ^Mfjit lciiij>talioiis to tile c\dli\ atoi'. The yjn/.ln^ 
 lands are ni't^t vrrdaiil. 'I'iie natural products are the 
 ]>a]ms, of e\'fry variety, and all Irnpiral fruits in ^reat 
 abundance and luxiniancr ; au'l the eulli\aled prod- 
 ucts of the^'ii'den and the field ])iv^cnt a mo^t ;4enerous 
 reward to the t(/il of the husbandman. The };alh- 
 erin^' of the crops there is now :i matter of .-iccident, 
 and tlieir su])ply to t'le maiket is very irrei;ular. 
 Of deep interest to us who hope- for more intimate 
 relations between North and South America, and who 
 have reason to exiKrct from the a-<embly of the citizens 
 of the two sections recently or'j;ani/.ed closer c<jmmer- 
 cial bonds, are the \iews expressed by At^assi/, at the 
 close of his scientific exploration of that region in 
 1866. lie says: "As soon as cultivation should re- 
 place this accidental gathering — as soon as the endless 
 variety of ])roducts, to which I have not even made an 
 allusion, should be brought into the market — I have 
 no doubt the valley of the Ama/on will be one of great 
 interest to us, Kemend^er that it will be more advan- 
 tageous for our northern j)oi)ulation to go there to 
 gather this wealth, than to any other ]):irts of the 
 tro])ical region, on aecomit of its ])roximity, to begin 
 with, and on account of the character of the climate. 
 In eleven days from New York you can be in I'ara ; in 
 a f(;rtnight after leaving New York you can be at the 
 junctic)u of the Rio Negro with the Amazon a thou-
 
 OPINION OF AGASSIZ. 195 
 
 sand miles above the mouth of tlie Amazon ; so that 
 it is at our door, and the facilities of communication 
 are so j^reat that we should take advantaj;e of this 
 scurce of valuable Iraflic, now that it is thrown open 
 to all nations, before others have taken the cream from 
 the field." 
 
 Tills is the coinitry which has suddenly been con- 
 veiUd fiDin an empire to a republic. I call it a repid)- 
 lie bec.'iuse the present ])ri)\isi()ii;il K"verninent I look 
 upon as merely an inlcrni^niini, in which i'onseca and 
 his associates are expected to preserve the organization 
 until it is delivered into the hands of their elected suc- 
 cessors. That tlie evils of which I have spoken 
 hastened tlie (lownfall of the empire, there can be no 
 doubt — evils so i;larini; and conspicuous that even the 
 mild and beneficent sway of l)om Pedro could not 
 reconcile the people to their existence. But I suppose 
 that what Dean Plumplre .says of luiropcan .society 
 is true of Brazilian — that it "is j^ravilatini^ to democ- 
 racy." That it may op^'anize without beinj; influenced 
 by its tr.'ulitions, or led by the example of the past, is 
 now the hope and prayer of every believer in popular 
 government. It takes a long time for a republic to 
 grow up on the ruins of a monarchy. The old customs 
 pass away slowl>-, tlie paraphernalia remain a long 
 time, the forms and ceremonies linger, i)erliaps never 
 de])art ; though the titles are drojiped the deference will 
 not die out, respectful ease and familiarity will not 
 take the place long filled by courtly phrase and re- 
 strained form and observance. Love of decoration 
 does not flee away at the rising of tlie republican 
 sun. When therefore we are told that proviiicial 
 presidents in Brazil, when assigned to the remotest
 
 I0f> A YHAR IN I'OPTDGAL. 
 
 proviticcs, consider themselves sent into exile, \vc are 
 encouraged to believe that there is a virgin soil on 
 which reimblican institutions can be planted, and 
 that from the frontiers at least may flow a liberal 
 supply of healthy life-bh^od to the heart of the new 
 republic. 
 
 It should be remcmbercfl that we of the United 
 vStates have had little to do but to preserve the social 
 and political doctrines and institutions which were 
 declared and established in the beginning. All the 
 events of the past belong naturally and harmoniously 
 to our present system. Custom and ex])erience have 
 established our forms and our laws. It re<[uired no 
 theory to inspire our Const' lution ; the work of its con- 
 struction consisted in combining the results of succes.s- 
 ful colonial experience, and so combining them that a 
 familiar aiid well-rec(jgni/.ed (organization should follow, 
 liefore the one direct demand (jf the great ])ractical 
 mrui of o\ir constitutional j>eriod, all theorists and d'x:- 
 trinaires exerted themselves in vain ; the timid retired ; 
 the over-wise found their wisd(;m to be fo(jlishness. 
 Xo more insjtiring ])icture is jjieseiited in. all history 
 than the life of him who, having led the American 
 iirmies throiij;h the I<<voliili(jn on to victory, snpcrior 
 to d<»iil»t and frar and dijiction and de:;cilion, ai»plie(l 
 the strong (jualitirs wliii h m.ide him great in w;ir to 
 the org.'uiizatifjn of a form of governmi.iit which his 
 exi>erience and observation ha<l convinced him to be 
 necessary. With this demand the history of every 
 colony was in accord. It is given to few men to fight 
 successfully for national independence, and to toil suc- 
 cessfully for a national government, with all the en- 
 couragement of a national history behind him. A
 
 CONTROVERSY WITH HNGLAND. 197 
 
 republic born of evolution has every clcnicnt of success. 
 Such a republic had Washinj^lon. »Such a republic 
 may have been developed by Doni Pedro during his 
 ajslhvtic rule, which ended in his peaceful departure. 
 
 It is encoura^nn^; to believe that repid)lics are not 
 nnirnrin. Tliey appear like trotlingdmrses in every 
 variety of shape ; and not until they start can we tell 
 how well they can j.;<). We can oidy wish them well 
 and believe in tlieir honest efforts. 
 
 When the royal family left Portugal for Pra/.il in 1S07 
 the ]iageant which attended them was great. A fleet 
 of ships of war attended the ro) al argosy. A thousand 
 troops and attendants innumerable accompanied the 
 imperial jiarty. Tiiere was a splendor of bands and 
 bainiers. And the arrival at Brazil was a signal for 
 most imposing ceremonies and assurances of loyalty. 
 When I)om Pedro I. returned to Portugal in 1S31 he 
 too came as the coufpieri^r comes. And now we have 
 liere his successor, with whose career we are all 
 familiar, and wh(<>e voyage forms a great contrast to 
 those of his ancestors. 
 
 The times here are somewhat troublous. Tlie con- 
 troversy between Ivngland and Portugal (ju the iCast 
 Africa (piestion has reachi-d a climax by the surrender 
 by Poitn};al of every point claimed of her. It is tine 
 it was done tuider protest --but it was done, and Portu- 
 gal monrns and raj^es alternately. I heard in the 
 Cortes yesterday the statement of Parros Gomes giving 
 his correspor.dence with the Pritish Minister, and the 
 patriotic considerations wliicli led him to surrender, 
 notwithstanding all the declarations he had made in 
 his letters to I/>rd vSalisl)ury. He did it \ery well ; his 
 oratory was quite impressive.
 
 198 A YEAR !N PORTUGAL. 
 
 Tlie r'orUi;;;'ticsc arc nnUirally very an;;ry o\cr llic 
 result, I'nr two loii^ cvciiiii;^s crowds of noisy and 
 prolfstiti^j persons liavc paraded the streets and liave 
 made a j;reat disturbance, tearin;; down the escntclieon 
 of the Jhitisli Consnlate, sloninj; the honse of Senhor 
 IJarros Ooines. threatening; th;it of the liritisli Minister, 
 and cheerinj; the fla^ of tlie Jha/.ilian Republic. 
 Kestdt — the resi^^nation of the ministry and the fornia- 
 tK^n of a new one. 
 
 This morning the storm seems to he over, notwith- 
 standing tin; threats of the po])nlrice last evening;. The 
 republican .sentiment has been roused to a ^reat dei^iee 
 of excitement ai;ainst lCnL;Ian'l, and by the submission 
 of the government to her dcm.mds. Last ni^dil it was 
 pro])osed U> Ki^'*^ expression to the j)(>])ular feelinj; by 
 crowning the statue of Camoeiis and listening to patri- 
 otic speeches. The crowninv; and the s[)ceches were 
 suppressed by a municii)al edict, and a sullen i)eople 
 \vere ob!i}.;ed to retire. .Many loyal pef)])le doulA tlie 
 wisdom of the sn]M>ression. I'erh.ips there was n<tl 
 mu' h to siippn- .s, 
 
 W'v now !ia\c llom lln- >^;o\(| iniKill ii joti); drcric 
 j)io\i(!in/, for in< leasiii}', and leoi^'aiii/.iiiy; thi' uii\'>' and 
 the ai my ; stren^^tluiiin^ the forts at Helem and else- 
 where ; building; four lar^e cruisers of three thousand 
 tons each, with a speed of twenty miles an hour ; issu- 
 ing twenty-dollar l)onds bearing four and a half per 
 cent, interest to run eighty years, an«l smaller bonds for 
 citculation ; manuf.K iui in;; h<M\y ofdti.uice and t'lr- 
 ])e'loeh. In fut, the litlU' kingdom is going [o put on 
 her armor. I )e Vov, in "Captain Singleton," says the 
 Portuguese are ([uite ellk-ient and brave when they 
 have a leader ; witliont one they amoinit to but little.
 
 CONTROVERSY WITH HNGLAND. 199 
 
 When I catiic lolhc I,fi;ation lliis inornitij; all seemed 
 peace and i)iosi)crily, Alonj^ the Kua Terregial de 
 Uaixo— sweet name where tlie Le^'ation is, and which 
 runs into tlie Kua de Alacrini, which means rosemary, 
 1 niel brirefool y;\r]s and w'unen, from fourteen to 
 fifty \ears old, carrying broad ])askels on their heads, 
 four feet at least in diaiueler, fdled with bread ;ind cod- 
 fishes ; a flock of turkeys driven about to find a mar- 
 ket ; three lar^e Ilolstein cows with mu//.led calves; 
 two heavily la<len donkeys with painiiers larger than 
 themselves^ — ^\r\s, women, cows, calves, and donkeys 
 all vocal. Peace has returned. 
 
 Meanwhile Lisbon is as busy as usual endeavoring 
 to avoid trade with Ivn^land, askitig how they can 
 establish relations with other countries contemidating 
 a larj^e increase of her conunercial relations. 
 
 Socially the town is not lively. The opera this sea- 
 son is not fascinating;. I sit before a fire these damp 
 winter evenings reading; the literature of my own 
 country. 'I'lie st(»rm lure is not (|uite o\er. It breaks 
 out in tnicNpected jilaces. At a circus the audience 
 J',l< \V fuii'Ml-* beejHI'e tile II. I}', of I'ortUK.al Wmm •-.loliti 
 and liid'ltu in llu' Mind <>f thi arena a pait <»f the per* 
 foiniance. When tin- bunting was um-ailhed and ex- 
 jxjsed in a soiled and bi-dragj^led condition, the house 
 rose in its wrath, and siats, chairs, decorations, doors, 
 windows, and actors were sent Hyinj; through the air 
 until the place was utterly <lemolished.
 
 CHAPTHr^ XI. 
 
 GIBI^\LTAR.-NAPLES.— POMPEII. -ROME. 
 
 lifanh jrt'.— We arrived here last evening about 
 sc\"en c)'cl(K:k, after a voyage of thirty-seven hours 
 from Lisbon, in the steamer Malai^a, a good little 
 vessel of eight hundred tons, with a fine ICnglish cap- 
 tain weighing many "stone," and a steady crew. 
 For the first time for many a month I met joints atid 
 meal>' potatoes and slices of bread and oatmeal and 
 a])i>le-i)udding and other Anglo-Saxon substantialities, 
 and I was rejoice'l to escajje ninins and trifles and an 
 " infinite variety." The weather on tlie voyage was 
 brilli.'iiit. There was hardly a cloud in tiie sky, anrl 
 the fresh wind tlrove us ah^ng over a sparkling and 
 lively sea. The rf)ute is most interesting. Tiie sail 
 down the Tagus was charming. On one side the green 
 hills rose above the shore in pieturescpie variety, and on 
 the other lay Lisbon with its uniformity of clay-colored 
 walls, its scarcity of inrposing buildiiigs, and its auda- 
 cious hilliness. The fine dome of the Kstrella, the 
 finest church in Lisbon, and the great wide business- 
 like walls of the small portion of the Ajuda now fin- 
 ished, and waiting fi^r a return of Portuguese prosperity 
 and surplus wealth to be developed into the most 
 commanding palace in the world, were the only at- 
 tractive and salient points of the city. We paused at
 
 GIBRALTAR, 201 
 
 tlic tower (»f r.<.-k-tn lo kt (.ft llic port fifTicw who 
 accompanied iis, nnd look a k1:i'»<-i-" ^'it llic fra^Mlc 
 slruclure, which coniljiiics soino i)rcUy conceits of 
 arcliilccturc with Ihc sturdy form of a protecting 
 fortress which one modern broadside would demoHsh. 
 We sailed out into the wide Atlantic, between the 
 !;loomy fortress of Cascaes, where Dom Luis died last 
 sunnner, and a fort on Cape ICspechel whose name I 
 have forgotten, if it has any, standing r/s-o-r/s at the 
 other corner of the moulli. It took many hours to 
 lose sight of the coast of Portugal, and it was after 
 midnight when we reached Cape vSt. Vincentc, under a 
 moon so bright that it rivalled the sun in brilliancy 
 and in its sparkling effect upon the sea. We had a 
 r.iost thoroughly Anglican company on board the 
 steamer, a captain with the good Ivssex county name 
 of Russell, a curate whose difikndty of hearing made 
 conversation (piile distinct and impressive, and with a 
 most excellent kiiowlefl;^e of IvJiglish litciatnre and 
 an entire appreciation of the I'nited States and great 
 anxiety to understand the exact difference between 
 an lCngli>h university and an American institution of 
 education which has assuJiied this high classical name 
 and which the noble oM President Onincy called a 
 ".school." He had as a companion a brother curate 
 of pleasant numners and good ecclesiastical quality and 
 information. We had a good deal of pleasant talk, 
 and I read of the bloody horrors of the Ciesars in 
 " vSketclies of Old Rome," and took a peep or two 
 into " My Study Wiiulows." All day Sunday the 
 bright sun .shone upon us, the .sea sparkled .all around 
 us, the cloudless sky hung over us with the rich blue 
 canopy of this section of the world, and we went on
 
 202 A YHAR IN l'( )FrrL'GAI.. 
 
 with our cNxn ten knots an lionr past town and head- 
 land on the Spanish coast. White Cadiz appeared far 
 oil on our i)ort l)ow, lookint^ in tlie distance as if an 
 enormous lainidry had been hung out to dry at the foot 
 of the liills borderinijf on the sea. Tlie cape Trafalgar 
 stood out with its .saiuly cliffs overhanguig the bay 
 where Nelson won his ininiortality and established the 
 power of Great Ihitain on the high seas. On tmr star- 
 board stretched the niomitaiuous sliores of Morocco, at 
 whose feet nestled Tangier, the most Oriental town of 
 this day, thronged with solemn Moors and excrescent 
 camels and veiled women, and adorned with the vSul- 
 tau's palace, whose domestic in'.i>ortance consists in a 
 well-appointed harem. Before I had (piite reali/.ed 
 that Tangier lay so near us I was pninted ti> a stretch 
 of white walls oj)posite, and was reminded that here 
 lay Tarif:i, distinguished above all other towns on 
 earth for ha\ing gi\en name to that S} stem of cus- 
 toms revenue which nations organize in accordance 
 with their industrial interests, unless liberalized, 
 humanized, and Christianized by the brotherly love 
 claimed for free trade. It was growing dark as we 
 entere'l the renowned .--trails Ixnuuled on either hand 
 b\ historic ground, and su-elling uneasily with wind 
 and tide as if iui])alient of the restraint of the two 
 continents which botuided ami cotifined them. It 
 was (piite the perfection of a moonlight night when 
 we came to anchor vuuler the shadow of the lofty 
 rock of Gibraltar and surnnuided by the great war 
 ships of ICngland, we looked out upon the frowning 
 bastions which overtopped the thousands of lights 
 which glittered in the town below. We were at Calpe. 
 and Abyla lay opjjosite, — the pillars of Hercules,
 
 GIBRALTAR. 203 
 
 through which all the coinnicrcc of the ancients passed 
 
 and repassed. 
 
 It is hardly necessary to describe Gibraltar ; we know 
 it all, and the world knows it, and is filled with admira- 
 tion of the foresight which prompted Great Britain, in 
 her days of deliberate, calculating statesmanship, to 
 seize this sentinel of the seas and to hold it against the 
 des])erate sieges of rival powers, until her flag floats in 
 triumph over its defiant and conunanding heights. 
 The gateway to the connnerce of the old Mediterra- 
 nean has become the gateway of the motlern eastern 
 sea, and the promises of Gibraltar are fulfilled. 
 
 When we reached the waters which wash the mole 
 night was well advanced, and the captain, curates, the 
 diplomatic family, and a mate or two enlivened the 
 ship's salon with the best they knew, and reluctantly 
 parted and retired. This morning the sun shone 
 brightly still, and having secured a g(jo(l ICnglish 
 breakfaNt on board, we ])laced ourselves in the hands 
 of a boatman whom Consul vSprague had .sent out to 
 lake us and our baggage ashore. Our trunks were 
 lujisted over the side into a weather-beaten open boat 
 maimed by two ancient mariners, who rowed us over a 
 most billowy and uneasy sea which seemed determined 
 to keep U]> its ancient stormy reputation, and which 
 roused us into imperative" denuuuls that we be put 
 ashore as soon as jiossible. And so we laiuled at the 
 steps of the fort and were civilly met by a good-Uniking 
 ICnglish ofllcer, who. having been assured that we liad 
 neither " spirits nor fire-arms " in out trunks, hat-boxes, 
 and valises, and that I was marching on under the pro- 
 tection of the American flag as a representative of 
 "the greatest government on earth," respectfully
 
 204 A YHAR IN I'ORTLTiAL. 
 
 touched his hat and bade us proceed. This we did, 
 and here we are in a comfortable liolel called the Calpe 
 — ancient name — wailing for a little excursion with 
 Consul Sprai^ue this afternoon. 
 
 Consul Sprague — who has not known of him and his 
 official merit and exact fulfilment of the perfection of 
 civil ser\-ice as understood by the reformers? His 
 father left Boston in 1X32 a representative of one of the 
 mo.st resi)ectal)le and i)atriolic families of his day in 
 that town, and, armed with a consular commission 
 from Andrew Jackson, took tip his al)ode in this 
 .station. He saw the administration of the old hero 
 pass away, saw \'an liuren and the triumj)hant De- 
 mocracy ride and fall, saw Harrison and Tyler ride 
 into ])ower on hard-cider barrels and loj^ cabins adorned 
 with coon-skitis, saw Tresident I'olk in the White 
 House and Geor<;e Bancroft in the Navy I)ej)artment, 
 and Te.Kas annexed, and passed away to leave his .son, 
 the present excellent Consul in power here, with a com- 
 mission froni the Presidential hero of " fifty-four forty 
 or fii^ht." An<l here he has been ever since enjoying 
 from youth to age the confidence of the ct)untry and 
 the respect of all who ha\-e known him. And what a 
 record has his country made meanwhile ! The severe 
 administration of Polk, the enignui of Taylor and Fill- 
 more, the pelting storms of Pieice, the solemn weakness 
 of Buchanan, the holy inspiration of Lincoln, the strange 
 vagaries of Andrew Johnson, the sturdy power of Grant, 
 the good intentions of Hayes, the tragedy of Garfield, 
 the gayety of Artluu', the inscrutability of Cleveland, 
 and the honest ])nri)ose of Harrison, have all come be- 
 fore his vision. What statesmen — Webster and Clay 
 and Callioun — 'have risen into radiant i>ower and gone
 
 GIBRALTAR. 20$ 
 
 down in bitter disappointment ! What American heroes 
 have achieved their great triumphs — Grant and Sher- 
 man and Sheridan and Thomas ! What deluded war- 
 riors and statesmen have been ruined ! And Consul 
 Sprague is still here, a kindly and attractive man with 
 whom I now propose to take a view of Gibraltar. 
 
 We have taken a walk through the gardens of the 
 Alameda and along the narrow streets where so many 
 nationalities mingle. British troops and British tars 
 jostle sailors from Malta, Moors in burnous and turban, 
 from Africa "o'er the way," black-bearded Jews, Ca- 
 ])uchin monks, rosy linglish girls in trim tailor gowns, 
 Spanish women with mantilla and fan, Turks with 
 baggy tnnisers, and American tourists — all are met in 
 a single s([uare. ICvery now and then people make 
 way fur a smart company of red-coats marching to fife 
 and drum — the most piercing, insjMriting, and splendid 
 fifmg and drumming I have ever heard. At sunset 
 and again at nine o'clock as the patrol i)assed we threw 
 open windows and listened utilil the last note died 
 away with a faint echo from the craggy heights. 
 
 The eastern side of the rock which forms the natural 
 fortress is very striking — towering i.4,V' feet into the 
 .sky. while at the base the d.uigerous reef against 
 which a strong surf beats makes it imj^regnable. On 
 the western side lies the town, and here it is defended 
 by ;i tremendous ma.ss of masonry two miles long — the 
 line wall, with projecting bastiofrs and guns turned 
 right and left to sweep it. Two gre.it hundred-ton 
 guns are the ])ride of the garrison. They throw a ball 
 weigliing two thousand ])oun(ls over eight miles. The 
 most interesting feature of the fortress is the Rock 
 Galleries. A hundred years ago they were begun,
 
 206 A Yr:AR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 and i^auy:^ of liaplcss convicts blasted ont the tnimcls 
 through wliich you may take a two-mile walk, mount- 
 ing slowly through the broad passage cut into the solid 
 rock. It is well lighted and protected, for at every 
 dozen yards a port-hole opens upon the bay, and at 
 each heavy guns arc mounted on carriages. Whether 
 they would be effective in a siege has l)een questiond ; 
 indeed, one of lurr I5ritish Majesty's ofl'icers told me 
 he feared they would be quite useless. IIowcNer that 
 may be, Gibraltar has not yet surrendered, and is un- 
 equalled for resist.'uice to mo-t jK-rsislent attacks, for 
 beauty and grandeur, 
 
 March St/i. — We are fist a])proaching Naples this 
 evening in a bright moonlight on :i smooth sea. The 
 Citrjro is a gcKxl, well-ordered steamshi]), a)id our voy- 
 age has been most delightful. We left the unity of 
 Gibraltar — all military, fortifications, regiments, bauds 
 of music, galleries, inaccessible forts on lofty piinuicles. 
 And this is all there is of Gibraltar, besides the Consul. 
 
 Our co/upac^-nons dc voya;^e have been most agreeable, 
 some of them atnusing. I talked long witli a vScotch 
 Presbyterian minister from Ivlinburgli bound for Damas- 
 cus, one of those sensible, devout, wise, high-principled 
 men who enable you to realize the goodness of which 
 human nature is capable. His account of his boys and 
 his parochial affairs, and his struggles for a college 
 education, and his interest in all good things in 
 America, in war and in peace, rejoiced my heart and 
 reminded me of the siiiiple, devoted, and honest ways 
 I was accustomed to in \\\\ yiulli. His \'iew of affiirs 
 in Scotland hardly confirmed the (i])ir.ion expressed to 
 nie ])y Mr. (»ladstone, that Scotl.ind is entirely satisfied
 
 NAPLFiS. 207 
 
 and has no cause for complaint. I met also the Hon. 
 Mitchell IIenr>-, formerly member of Parliament from 
 West Ireland, a large landholder in that troubled 
 country, \vho informed me that he had a daughter mar- 
 ried in the town of Ware, Massachusetts — and fdled my 
 mind with pleasant memories and associations. 
 
 We put into Algiers to hind Mr. Henry, who has a 
 winter residence there, as have niany other ICnglish- 
 men, and we made a slight night exploration of .the , 
 town. Those of us who remained on board saw before 
 us a high pile of buildings moiniting up the sides of 
 the great hill on which the town was built, while the 
 water was covered with little boats for the accommoda- 
 tion of the ]iassengers. Mrs. Loring and her Scotch 
 friends went ashore, and on their return gave most inter- 
 esting accounts of the veiled W(jmen they had seen on 
 the streets, and the cafrsi where .solcnni Moors were smok- 
 ing tlR-ir pipes, and tliev exhibited with a triumphant 
 air specimens of br.i^swork they had purchased of the 
 :iatives. The air of Algiers is mild and salubrious, 
 and the inhabitants around the Iviiglish Channel and 
 the Orkneys find there a most delightful winter resort. 
 I have read to-day, once more, Hawthorne's Tran.s- 
 formation, "The Marble Faun," as it first appeared ; 
 and I have been more than ever impressed with his 
 wonderful power of expression, his keen analysis of 
 motives and impulses, and his deep understandinjj 
 of what was going on about him. I am not suqiri.sed 
 that the philoso])hical thinkers did not quite compre- 
 hend him, and that the artists w«.ndered at him and 
 tliat novelists criticised him. 
 
 We sailed into the bay of Naples this morning 
 about six o'clock. As we approached, Vesuviu's ap-
 
 20S A YliAR IN ITiRTUGAL. 
 
 pcnrL-d on our \\v;itli(.r l>o\v. Uikin^j;^ an early morning 
 sniokf, with licr noiUicrly sl')]>c- fn.ni Uk.- lop almost lo 
 tlichaNC- rovcixd willi sikav, a li^lit fall of wliicli had 
 occurred in tlie ni^lit. A snow-covcrcd c-liimucy is not 
 imcommoii in the winter niorJiin;;s in New ICn^Iand ; 
 Init I nnist CMnfcs^ tlic transfer of this ])ictiires(|tic 
 oljett frum the nionnlains o( New Ilainpsliire to ti)e 
 snnny clinialf of Iialy was a little slaitlin;; antl dis- 
 ''•""'•'r,""N- Slill in the morninj< sun the seem- was 
 heautiftd. We steamed iij) to the mole, and when we 
 had droppe<l anchor we found ourselves lyinj; between 
 the Cliiiano aiirl the Alhnilir^ of the ,S<jUadron of Jvvolu- 
 tion, w!ii<h had arrived only yesterday from her cruise 
 in the Medit-rratiean. I madj haste to ])ay my respects 
 to Admiral Walker, and was scut aslir,re by him, with 
 my family a!id lu--a.i;e, in the shi])'s bar^e. Our 
 entry into Naples was (piite triumi)hant. The United 
 Stales Consul met us on tlie ])ier ; the customdiouse 
 otficers passed my ba-ga<;e witliont examination, and 
 we were <lrive!i lo the Grand Ib.tel as a startin--p(.)int 
 for a short survey of the objects of interest in Naples. 
 The air is soft, iiolwith-ianding the snowy mantle 
 whieh envelr;ps \'esuvins, and the sun is brii^ht and 
 warm, and all the hills are bathed in purple h'Kht. 
 
 We have had a mo«.t delij^htful d.iy at p.,mi)eii, 
 directed by a >Mn'<!e who has made a carehd study ui 
 the lat'-st exeavati«;ns. The "Silent City " has }',iown 
 mti'li since we last saw it. .uid many pnblie buildin;.;s 
 and honses of ^reat beauty have been (;pene<l. 
 
 In the h.jn.M; ^,{ Salhisl we passed into the tricli- 
 nium, or smnnur dinin;^--room, which was channin-ly 
 decorated. The sto:ie s.at^, tl;e all.ir for lilKition;, the 
 marble basin int., which the roiinlain fJI, and the boxes
 
 POMPEII. 209 
 
 in which nowcrs formerly j;rc\v arc still there. The 
 dininj^-room opened into rui arbor, and the outer wall 
 was painted with fountain jets, trees, and hirds. \Vc 
 ga/.ed upon the delicate colors of the frescos and the 
 lieauty of the tnarl)le courts, and found it hard to 
 realize that all life had vanished from thetn eij^ditecil 
 hnndied years ;iy',o. 
 
 At the beaiiliful and inlerestinj; house of the h'aun, 
 the ^'.arden is surrounded by a portico with fifly-six 
 Doric columns. At the house «)f Dionied, the ^anlcn 
 has a portico, and elose to the gate were found two 
 skeletons believed to ])e those of the master and slave, 
 who eudeavore<l to tsvape while the other members of 
 the family were liidden in the eellar. 
 
 The amphitheatre is a wonderful excavation, and 
 from the arena where Glaucus made his unite appeal 
 to the excited and blood-thirsty spectators, we looked 
 invohnitarily towards the mountain for the fatal cloud 
 whieh had wrapped in darkness the d(X)med city it was 
 to destroy. 
 
 We passed some pleasant hours in the Naples 
 museum, rejoicing again in the grandeur of the 
 Farnese Bull, and the Hercules, and the beauty of the 
 lovely Flora, and the gallery of the Hronzes. We 
 drove through the busy streets and along the fine new 
 Chia/.a, with many glances across the blue bay to 
 Ca])ri, " the loveliest pearl in Nai)les' erown." 
 
 Maiih ii)lh. — Two da\s only at Xa])les and I'omixii 
 with their mu.M.'ums, iin<l e\(a\'ati<;ns and churches 
 and lioman relics ! An old friend, who has become 
 familiar with every street, .and lane, and building in 
 rom})eii, peopled the town f >r us, and we traded iti 
 the m.irket-place, and luxuriate<l in the baths, and
 
 iut 
 
 A YI:AR in I'ftlt'TliriAl.. 
 
 ripl^lau'k-*! at. IIk- llicatrfs, ati'i lu-M h\-^]\ c()iivcrsc in 
 llie Ikjusc, and iinaj^iin.d otirsclvcs citi/.c!is, wilh all its 
 ancient litfrattuv and xoluptuousncss, atid all Ihc 
 appliances of a luxurious pccipic, 
 
 \\\' came lo Rome on llie i^Mli for a flying; visit— a 
 pt) roniianri- wliifli ,s'( nud ! i'licidons in view of what 
 Uome was and is and is likely to he, 'i'lu- journey 
 occiipiid ah<nit five Imnrs tliron;;li the wide valit-y 
 whi'li lM-;;insin \'iew of \'t'su\ins and lenniiiatcs in the 
 (.'aiiii>a).;na, 'I'lie snow eapj)ed mountains stood (»n 
 eitli<r hand in ino' I |ii'lin< (pie aiiay. and foinird a 
 htrikiuK <'<intia'il t<» IIh' liii;.',lit }',it<ii s'lidno' ot the 
 plains over whifh wi- vvere passinj.',. Wlu-n I saw 
 Rome for the fn-st tim< , many years aj.',o, I appr«)ac"hed 
 it over the loni; and weary highway from Civila Vec- 
 chia where every object, even the carria-^e in which T 
 Iravelh.d. and the qn'nil<n l>y the wayside, and the 
 horses and the ancient dri\er. all reminded me that I 
 was in tlie ret^don of antifpiil\- ; and as I approached 
 the mistress «if the wurld her \enerahle appearance was 
 deeply impressed ni)on me hy her solemn walls, her 
 time-worn Imildin^s, and her crown which ^at, a ;;re;it 
 dome, on the he.id of ,St. j-eler's. I-',\\r\thinj; ri-- 
 mindid me of the empcrois and the repuMic, and 
 the marehiuj.; armies, and tin- j.;reat victorious proces- 
 sions of cou'pK-rors, and the weeping captives and 
 papal grandeur. It was Rome which J was contem- 
 plating^, and Rome alone. I'.iit now I c.ime into the 
 city witlnnit lliat suldime view of vSt. Peter's and 
 looking in vain for the venerable form ofth.it antifiuily 
 which constituted its grandeur. I was whirled into a 
 modern railw.iy station cjf im])OS!ng proportions, most 
 sidjstautial in its youth and usefulness, .and acconnno-
 
 ROMH. 211 
 
 (Inlijij; the tnivcllin^ pithlii- on ^r^'ii'ifl once occupied 
 l)y llic I*rcl')ri;in r.uanls. 'iMic a(lj;iccnl buildinj^s were 
 larj^e and new, ami so many of tlienv stood unfinislied 
 that I fell I was in the precincts of specuhitors an<l not 
 in the (-(mtts of artists and eccUsiaslics. 'I'hc Hotel 
 Contitiriital loonu(l ntar hy and npiiird wide it:uloors 
 for din' reciplidii, and I lo<ikcd ahnnt on cvety hand to 
 fnid any jiroof that I w;is not in New N'ork, or Hosttoi, 
 or Chicaj-Mi, or Sakin Ixlon- the Ivi-^lcrn Railroad 
 staliwn w IS hiiriil down. I was uhli^cd \n <.'xpl'ite a 
 Utile 1m Idle I n .illy di><rri\rird thai lh<. re was atj 
 am icnt Koine f-.till a Koine <?!' hi -toiy and ronianeo 
 ami poitiy sn en),;nlplied in ni'tdirn (••niiiion place and 
 ntilil) that it seemed to he almost oMiterated and 
 destined to rein(»val as an ohstaele to the mareh of 
 improvement. Rome is immensels huilt up, and in- 
 creases in poimlation at the rate of a thousand a month, 
 and is not the charming and imjiressive and fascinating; 
 l)lace <jf visions and dreams and heaiity that it was 
 when it had fifty thousand people and not a new house 
 in it. (Jf Course I had come to take a peep at old 
 Koine, and set ahout e.xplorinj; at once. I went forth 
 to find Story as a fit introduction to the art of this 
 ^reat city <»f .irtists. When I last saw St(»r\ he was in 
 Washin;.'.t<»n a -^uvsi who eiitrrtained .ill hi> inter- 
 tainers. Ik- was to me a classmate and a ft llow-sonj^s- 
 ler, and a most vital Ki'<-'^U ^^ho rivalled Lowell in 
 activity, mental and i)h\sical, and was fond of me — 
 why I could never tell. I hardly expected to find the 
 "friend of my youth,'" hut I was not (|uite i)repared to 
 meet a rather venerable j^entlenian in artist's blouse 
 and cap. with :i snowy head as white as the peaks I 
 hud .seen on my journey hither. Nor was he prepared
 
 212 
 
 A YHAK IN rCtF^TUGAL 
 
 to niccl iiitj ii! any ^iiisc. f(»r he supposed T was playing 
 (lijjlonial in Lisbon, ncj^otialini; l)ela;^oa ]'>ay, and 
 jionderiui; upon llie wiatli of llic rortu^uese who 
 think Ihey have Ix.'en despoiled In- ICnj^land of their 
 African ]))ssessiojis. C)ur nieetini; was most youthful ; 
 it \\as that of two eollej^e hoys and not tliat of a 
 venerable artist anil an ancient diplomatist. We em ■ 
 braeed, he kissed me audibly, I turned my eyes most 
 affectionatelN- on him. we danced, we laughed, we 
 admired eadi oilier, and ;d! my lime here has been 
 made happy b\- himself and hi> famil\'. We ha\'e 
 dined with him : Mrs. Slor\' has been most attenti\-e 
 and deli;.;ht!;dly reminiscent ; the artist son, Waldo, 
 has im]>ressed me by his j^euins, as his wife has by her 
 beauty ; and ICdith, now Mrs. Peno/./i, has reminded 
 me of all the kindliness of a well-descended American 
 woman, 'i'he amount of vStor\'s art is wonderful. His 
 bu>ts of distin;.;uished Americans arc admirable ; his 
 statues are M\ of character ; his conceptions full of 
 beaul\-. His studio rooms are piled with works of art 
 in ^rou]»s more th.an fifty statues of historic charac- 
 ters, and I know not how many ideal fi^iures, nor does 
 he know. As \on y^o from looni to room \ou are sur- 
 rounded by ni'.'st im])osin;^ fi.rms (tf beauty and i^race. 
 I cannot describe them, but one cm conceive of them, 
 and as t.he\' are broir^ht b<.-fore the mind it is easy to 
 imagine a Cleo])alra with a face that startles y^u as you 
 contemplate its heated e\es and its ardent mouth, and 
 you may picture to yourself an A])hrodite, his last 
 work, still in the clay, ,so full of beauty that >'oti fory:ct 
 all lie has done l)efore for a moment, and all the 
 elaborations of ])hysical ^race and spiritual charm that 
 other artists have created. Kor nearlv fortv vcars
 
 ROMU. 213 
 
 Stop,' has bcL-n etigagcd in composing his record as an 
 artist, and he can now look Ijack over a life of devotion 
 to beautiful creation, without a flaw, a uniform and 
 conijilete chapter which is full of delight. His life has 
 been most sweet, his reC(jrd is most honorable. We 
 have talked busily,— about his fellow-artists,— about 
 Drowning, whom he ha<l known and loved, and whose 
 l.'ist words to him but a few months ago, as they parted, 
 were: "An unbroken friendship of fifty years"; 
 about Lowell, wh<«m we both admire; about I/uidor, 
 who is to me a dull literateur and to him an irritable, 
 and, as Mrs. vSlory says, an admind)le old man; and 
 about the former da\s. 
 
 A reoei)tion given by I.ady Dufferin at the Hritish 
 Legation gave me an opportu.nity to meet many Ameri- 
 cans, among whom I noticed the familiar faces of 
 Governor Porter, the rnik-d States Minister, and his 
 daughter; Mr. Winthrop Chaider ; Mr. Sargent, the 
 American naval affudir, accompanied by his wite ; Mr, 
 Osgood iMebl. the sight of wh<>m carried me back to 
 the days of his grandfather, the Revolutionary com- 
 mander, the first rostmaster-Oeneral of the Republic, 
 the friend of Wasliington, and ti> my own maternal an- 
 cestors in the historic old town of Andfjver. Conspic- 
 uous among the distinguished persons present was 
 Prince Napoleon, the renowned Plon-plon about whom 
 there is such a widediiTerence of opinion. He is a stout, 
 substantial person, whose youthfid beauty and resem- 
 blance to the I'irst Consul still remain, sotnewhat 
 matured and modified by time. He is a citizen now, 
 with not much of a future, but with a j^ast which is 
 remarkable for striking incidents and gloomy with lost 
 opiX-)rtunities. He is undoubtedly one of the brightest
 
 2M A VI:AK in POKTl'GAL. 
 
 of the family of Xapoloon, atul wliile he has ability to 
 distinguish himself as a ruk-r, has never enjoyed the 
 possession of ix)\ver, and has allowed his life to be con- 
 trolled by the impulses whose influence his associations 
 and his leisure have developed into mere eccentricities. 
 He has been branded as a coward, but he has shown 
 great independence of character, and while he has been 
 stn^igly inclined to turn a contem])tvi(Mis look upon ihe 
 imperial honors which have slipjK'd through the grasp 
 of his family, he has manifested an audacious inclina- 
 tion to advoc^ite republican doctrines whenever he could 
 fnul an excuse for his natural lo\-e of democratic insti- 
 tutions. Ilis religious views coincide largely with his 
 ix/iitical, and while he has been surrounded by extreme 
 Roman Catl'olicism, and has seen his wife Clothilde 
 liold herself aloof from the bedside of her dying father, 
 Victor Ivmamiel, on account of his hostility to the 
 temporal ]'OWer of the Pope, his mind has rebelled 
 against the cerennjuials of the Church, and he has 
 extended to the ecclesiastical ofhcials the cordial hospi- 
 tality (^f a gentleman. 
 
 Prince Napoleon has li\-ed under the influences of 
 reflnement and ctdture and that imperialism of which 
 he has had no share, in an assf)ciation where all his 
 wit an<l accomplishments are thoroughly appreciated, 
 but where his common-sense could nut display itself. 
 He has been from the beginning the implacable enemy 
 of the Jvmpress luigeuie, whose lineage he unreasonably 
 and unjustly disputed, and of whose character lie has 
 great dislike. His desire fur France and for his cousin 
 Louis Xa]>oleon was that an alliance sh.ould be formed 
 with some one of the ruling and royal families of 
 IXurope. The ]'*m[)eror, howe\'er, was so enamored
 
 ROMl:. 215 
 
 of the beauty of the da/.zlitig Spanish damsel without 
 acknowledged nationality or family that he allowed his 
 life to be eontrolled by her. It was she who resisted 
 every attempt of the ICmperor to manifest his sympathy 
 with proi^ress. eillK-r in ICnrope or Ameriea. Hy her 
 adviee, we are told, he fiikd to withdraw the hVeneh 
 troops from Rome, and it was her passionate appeals 
 which tlie Ivmperor was obliged to resist when he 
 refused to acknowledge the Sontliern Confederacy. 
 And the Franco-German war, which dissevered iMance 
 and dethroned the Ivmperor, has passed into history, 
 justly or not, as the War of the Ivmpress. Prince 
 Napoleon would not view a career like this, as he 
 understood it, with patience or complacency ; and on 
 cverv occasion, public and private, he has manifested 
 his hostility to the banpress, whether in power or over- 
 whehned by calamity. 
 
 The relations existing between the Prince and his 
 wife have not been productive of happiness or peace. 
 In the l)eauty and character of his daughter he takes 
 great delight. And so this man, who was born to rule, 
 and as a literateur, or a scientist, or a diplomatist, or a 
 man of affairs, might have achieved an honorable ca- 
 reer, will be classed among the social wits and the public 
 failures. His home at Prangins is fnnous for its luxury 
 and taste, occupying one of the most pictuies<iue 
 .spots on the shore of Lake Leman, and adorned with 
 great beauty of art and architecture. Prince Napoleon 
 will be considered as one of the unemployed forces of 
 I'Airo-)e ; his life is roughly handled, as the life of an 
 idler will al\\a\s be. 
 
 Meanwhile we have strolled from one gallery to an- 
 other—from vSt. Peter's to the ancient vS. Marie del
 
 216 A YEyXR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 Popolo. from tlic I'or^licsc- Villa to tlK- Painphili Doria, 
 from Ihc Forum to the threat triumphal arches of Cou- 
 stnntiuc and Titus, from the palace of the Cajsars to 
 tile liDUse of Domitian, from the Capitol to the Mu- 
 seum, from gate to Corsa, — all of which is so well 
 described in i^uide-hooks and in juvenile journals. 
 Ilildreth has been (piite enthusiastic in his researches, 
 directed by the uniiriiii; kindness of Mr. Wood of the 
 .\nierican Con.Nulate ; and encourat;ed by the courtesy 
 of (',o\einor I'.ourn. the IT. S. Consul-Cicneral. 
 
 One ihin;^ in Rome, ho vever, i;;uide-books have not 
 descril)ed, nor have the hosts of tra\ellers discoxxred, 
 and that is the new attraction Ilawlliorne has i;iven 
 this ancient city. His spirit follows you everywhere. 
 His stamj) is left on every i;reat work of art, his fieiy 
 criticism on every unworthy creation (jf the artists. 
 Miriam and her awful mo<lel and her terrible secret 
 haunt you. Hilda's tower stands as it was designed 
 to stand, a guru'(lirui of the city made divine by her 
 .sweet >pirit. I !~tood and conie:ni)laled it with nio->t 
 intense and wrapt adoration — for there is her wind<iw, 
 there the lamp which has shone out for six Jiumlred 
 years, there the image of the virgin looking o\er the 
 town, and there the creative spirit of Hawthorne, who 
 wo\'e this ancient structure into his inspired story, and 
 selected it as the only spot in Rome suited as an abode 
 ior the i»uie and >])iritual Hilda. The terrace at the 
 I'incian Hill, from which Hilda and Kenyon lc)oked 
 down into the great I'ia/.z.i del I'opolo and saw Miriam 
 kneeling at the fonnt;iin fir, far l^elow, still iiuites you 
 to stand and look and imagine Hawthorne au'l his 
 creation by your side. The smooth, and green, and 
 grassy turf of the amphitheatre in which Donatcllo
 
 ROME. 2t7 
 
 danced and set all his companions, the grave and gay 
 alike, into the wildest antics, lies deserted and beautiful 
 before you as you pass along the avenue which leads to 
 the ]k)rgli(jse \'illa with its great collection of art. 
 By what power Hawthorne was led to clothe all these 
 spots witli the creatures of his genius, whether they 
 brought their appropriate imagery to his mind, or 
 whether he found the proper home for the cliaracters 
 he was delineating, uo man can tell now. But nowhere 
 else could the abode of Miriam and Hilda and Doua- 
 tello be found, and no reality coidd fdl the plaees they 
 fd! in the " Marble I-'aun " — not e\-en the living beings 
 and statues of Rome. 1 have met Conway here, who is 
 writing a Life of Hawthorne, asid we have wandered 
 about together, wondering how the great genius wrought 
 himself into the life and art of the great city. 
 
 We leave for Naples to-morrow morning to take 
 steamer for Oibraltar. I turn my face westward with 
 delight : for that way Salem lies.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 GIBI^Al.TAR.- TANGIER. 
 
 AfarcJi 2oth. — We arc aj;nin in (/ibrnltar. After 
 dinini; with Mr, and Mrs. Wintlirop Cliankr, where 
 \vc n)et anio])^ oilier i;iicsls Minister Porter and liis 
 daughter, Miss Broaihvood, Mr. and Mrs. Terr>-, and 
 Mr. Dougherty, we jirej^arod for our departure from 
 Rome, We took an earJN train for Naples to meet the 
 steamer O/nj' r, «>n wliich we w<.Te to sail for ( libr.'ilt.'ir. 
 We reach'.'<l Xa])les ah'iut two o'chick, dined siun|itn- 
 ou.sly, strolled .'ihout the town, and at smiM-t went on 
 ho.ard. This wa'- firewell to Itrdy, I might describe 
 \vliat I saw at Naples, I'omj)cii, and Rome, hut I 
 catniot de.seribe the ple.isure I had in the attentive 
 friends who m.ide my journey most agreeable. 
 
 This .ship on which we embarked from N;i])les is a 
 .steady Knglish steamer of near!}" 7,(,oo Ions burthen 
 and 6,fx>) horse-]H)Wer, running l»elween London and 
 Melbourne. Her vcjyage she makes jjretty regularly in 
 six weeks each way. Her i)assengers, wlio weie almost 
 entirely ICnglish of the Australian Colony, were return- 
 ing home after a long absence, with their minds full of 
 anticipatif)ns and reminivcences. Our \'oyage, there- 
 fore, was one of some interest, rnxl I managed before 
 it was fini'-h( '1 to become acfjuaintcd with a steady, 
 sensible J'aiglish henl'inan who had passed his life iu
 
 GIBKALTAR. 219 
 
 Attstralia feeding his flocks like Ihc " frup;nl swain" 
 ill Douglas, lo the luiniher of 20^,000, and with him I 
 discussed the subject of wool, and had the pleasure of 
 informing him that notwithstanding the efforts of his 
 friend President Cleveland, in whose utterances he had 
 great f;iith. Australian wool would not be admitted free 
 into the I'nited vStates. I also discu>sed Ivnglish poli- 
 tics with a bright }-oung man who had travelled through 
 our country from the Atlantic to the Pacific, \isitiiig 
 New York, Philadelphia, Washington, Cliicago, and 
 San I'Vancisco, and was just completing his journey 
 round the world a la Nelly V>\y. He discussed Mr. 
 Gladstone very shrewdly, knew Mr. Chamberlain, in 
 whose town he lived, believed in the Ivnglish-spcaking 
 ])e()ple. whether John Bulls or P.rother Jonatlums, and 
 on the whole- wa^ <|nite bright and entiTlaining. Ihlt 
 the voyage itself w.is pK tly b.id. TIk' st.iU-roor.is I 
 had secured were ver\' far foiward and the motion of 
 the great ship was felt as if th(.re had been an earth- 
 fjuake. Soon after leaving Naples the wind piped from 
 the southwest, "the sky with clouds was overcast," 
 "the rain began to fall," and the bosom of the sea 
 became most violent. As night wore on the waves 
 rose in their wrath, not .sweeping and dignified and im- 
 posing as on the Atlantic, but " sharp, quick, and de- 
 cisive," angry, jetulent, spasmodic, dashing themselves 
 with headlong fury against the sides (»f the ship and 
 throwing their spray in great showers o\er the l)ows. 
 They seemed at times to be stretching their reach to 
 the i)ort-holes for iiKiuiry into the misery they were 
 creating in the cabins, or to touch the fiying clouds 
 which were res])onding to their turbnleuce from the 
 heavens. Tlie scene was sublime and exciting, and i
 
 2)n A VI. Al' IN I'mI' II'fiAl,. 
 
 ctijoycd the cotfiisiuM ami riot, wliilc I syiiiptilliizcfl 
 with l]i<)sc iinli.-i]*]))' voya^^crs \vli(> were <»l)lij^C'<l lo ro 
 Irciit l») llicir lii'liii^^ j)l:ices. W'c \vm\ l)ul liUk- repfjsc 
 tmlil Wf naclicd llie I'.c of tlic- laii'l apjiroacliiip^; the 
 Straits f;f Cild-altar. 
 
 Whtii \vc readied Gibraltar a severer trial still 
 awaited us. Tlie \v;iters of the harbor were very 
 rough, and we were obliged to laud at the <[uay iti little 
 boats which c?aiiie alongside, and in the iiio>t cocinet- 
 tish manlier bobbed up and down at the fo<A of the 
 stairs leading fmiii the shij). One boat t<iok our bag- 
 g;!ge, and was soon ])!a\ing hi'!e and seek dii theensts 
 and valleys of tlu! restless waters. A boat was tlieii 
 bnnight alongside for tis. She beh;i\'ed worse than 
 her pretkce-vor, Down the steps went Mrs. I/iiiugloget 
 on b')ai<l, \\'!i'> II s!ie reaeh(.d the lowe-^t slc'p tiie boat 
 settled tin li<i below her, and then rose impudently 
 tin f<.(.l abo\e her, as intu h as lo say, " if one thing 
 does not sitisiy ><'ii, }ou may try the opp(>sil<.-," 
 Wlun she: stret<-lKd out her arms for aid and got it, 
 she took a n>ing leap and landed in safety. Ilildreth 
 folhnved in .similar fasliion. I refused, and a tugd)oat 
 lumb'.red up with great ui)lieavals and gave me a more, 
 massive but not a better <;]>portunity. W'e all got 
 ashore at Xw-X, aiul to-morrow we go to Tangier. 
 
 W'e left Oibraltar for Tangier on the morning of 
 Sunday, the 2}th of March, afl(.-r a most kindly farewell 
 from Mr. vSprague, o\er a " smooth deceitful sea," 
 uiuler a bright sun. with Sj);iin on the one si'le and the 
 mountains of .Morocco on the otln.r. The trij) was 
 delightful. W'e sailed into the beautiful little bay of 
 Tangier, ftiugf-d with a while sandy be.ieh, with ,i dark 
 ba<kj',round of ^-ttiile moniitains, about noon, and
 
 TANfilll', 'U\ 
 
 were inlro«lucc<l fit oikc to a crowd of lurbatic«l, flnn- 
 iicl-<lra])f<l, barf-leKK<-'li swarthy, Mack-cycd Moors, 
 who made the slrcvts tcsotiii'l wilh thtir chiinor. After 
 a hinc-hfoii at a ^'ood h«»tel we started on our exploring; 
 exi)editioii with a ^iiide. It was " j^reat market-day," 
 as every Sunday is. We strolled tlipiu^h narrow. 
 crfMjked, dirty, hadly-paved stn-ets, jostleil by little 
 ra^.i;ed donkeys and j;reat rai^t^ed Moors, beset by bey; 
 i!,'u\^ cliildreii and inij)ortunate crijjples, and after a 
 most painful and disagreeable walk of half an hour wc 
 reache<l the market-place. It was a wide, uneven 
 sloi)e, covered with j;n»ups of peo)>le en^i^aj^ed in feed- 
 ing and trade, attendcfl by the omnipresent donkey and 
 a few disconsolate camels. I saw but little merchan- 
 dise — lar^;c bread loaves, some jjanniers of oran^^es, a 
 sujtply of potatoes an<l carrots, and a few pieces of 
 •KcDialed cotton cloth, of which I bou};]it one, whose 
 needlework alone must have occupied a mouth, for a 
 dollar. riie «halteriti)^M'rowd wasj;reat, Hare-footed, 
 bare-headed, ra^^^ed-cloaked. ba).:,;;\-breeched boys 
 were en^a^ed in playful fi^hi, wretched old men sat 
 round on their heels, crooked and ha^^^^ard old women 
 curled up under the walls, and the j;round was diversi- 
 fied with dirt-hea])S and mudholes. A more disi^usting 
 picture I never witnessed. 
 
 On our way back to the hotel we visited a "grand 
 ba/.;iar," full of rugs, and fliscarded gut'.s, and trinkets, 
 and red slippers, and brass plates. We resisted the 
 tem])tation of all this dis])lay, a!ul went on to ;i Moorish 
 house where the strains of most disi-ordant music in- 
 formed us that a uewls-married co»:j)le were celebrating 
 their honeymoon, I'li-isin^ Ihiough a blue and white 
 court and up a precipitotts (light of red steps, into a
 
 222 A YI;AK in i'<)Rril(}AL 
 
 iinrrow baUfjiiy, \vc fomi'l five imisiciaiis seated on the 
 floor at <<iie eiul, 'I'lny liid iiiooiish iiistnjineiits re- 
 seiiiljliii^ a violin, j^iiilar, niaii'loliii, and castanets, and 
 all lianj^e'! away with a j;reat noise and little harmony, 
 sin^ini; at the toj) of their lun^s at the same time. In 
 frcMit of them was a small round table with Moorish 
 cups and saucers, and a cofTee-urn in the centre. At 
 ojie side sat a very weIl-develoi)ed girl. i)erhaps too 
 well de\eloj)ed, dressed in white, uith a pink silk 
 handkerchief tied over her head, and her almontl eyes 
 sloe-black, ga/ed stolidly out from her fat cheeks, as 
 some of the Moors came forward to shake hands with tis 
 and gi\e us chairs. The gui<le whisjxred to us that this 
 girl was the bride; that after the marriage the couple 
 lived together fifteen da \s, and if dissatisfied they could 
 separate on the ])aymi. nt of one thousand dollars to the 
 girl's family, when the marriage would be satisfactorily 
 annulled, the girl being alUnved anothvr matriuK^nial 
 experiment. We iMjudered upon this free and easy 
 adjustment of a somewhat solcinn matter. 
 
 (Jn arriving at our hotel we found the snake-charmer 
 ready for his work. He was accompanied by two tam- 
 bourine ])la}ers, who beat their instruments loudl}- and 
 chanted wildly over a dirty bag which was lying on the 
 ground before them. vSeated in red chairs, we were 
 surroundeil by a crowd of Moors, veiled women, and 
 ragged children, li.stening patiently to the noise and 
 waiting f')r the appearance of the snakes, which, on the 
 opening of the bag, were drawn out one after another 
 to the number of six, and lied together by the tail in 
 two groups of three each, sfpiirming and wriggling at 
 our feet. The cluirmer then proceeded to staff his 
 mouth with straw, from wliich in a few minutes he
 
 TANCiir.K. 223 
 
 l)lc\v .smoke atul fliinic, and llic siinkcs were stijiposed 
 to l>e well diartiied. luUt lliis lila/.iiij^ iiioiilh they 
 thrust tlieir heads, bitiuj; atid \\()Uiidiii}^ the man's 
 tongue until blood flowed freely and was exhibited 
 with great apparent pride. The performance ended 
 with unbinding the tails, the freeing of the snakes, and 
 their roaming savagely over the street, to the terror of 
 the bystanders, who looked with horror on a sharp, fine 
 t(Jolh half an inch long which each snake exhibited 
 with e\-ident dire intent. The exhibition filled the 
 crowd with wonder, and m\self with an a>surance that 
 flcstroying the f uigs of sn;ikes renders them harmless, 
 and t>ing their tails together fills them with confusion. 
 
 This morning, mounted on a mule with the tall 
 Moorish soldier of the consulate marching ahead, and a 
 guide in blue Turkish trowsers and jacket and a red 
 fez at her .side Mrs. I^oring proceeded to visit the 
 Sultan's palace, and to .see the harem, which is not 
 visible to masculine eyes. Through the vilely-paved 
 and narrow streets, l)etween the low white stuccoed 
 houses, the jirocession jiassed on to the palace. The 
 interior of this palace is a great courtyard, floors and 
 walls of many colored mosaics, and the pillars and 
 arches white with lovely lacework in ])laster, to match 
 the \."alls of the bedrooms which open into the court. 
 The ceilings are in red and blue Moorish work and 
 are very pretty. A great fountain was in the centre, 
 from which the way was led to the harem. 
 
 The Sultan of Morocco lives in I'ez, but he spends a 
 month or two each year in Tangier, and as lie has five 
 hundred wives lie leaves a few in each palace. Trom 
 the fountain-court you enter another court finished in 
 mo.saics with graceful jjillars and arches, at the end
 
 221 A V1:AK in PORTUGAL. 
 
 of which, in a h>iii^ room opciiiui; from it. seven 
 uonun sat or rcrliiK-d on nii;s. Five were youui:^ ami 
 two were pretly, with dark eyes ami fair skins. Tliey 
 were (lre>se(l in white, with broad sashes, and veils 
 fastened away from their fices, while the prettiest had 
 a red fez stuck coquettislily on one side of her head. 
 In the centre of the .uronp sat the oldest woman, crowned 
 with a tnrb.'ui, wlioextended her hand to the visitor with- 
 out risinj.; .and offertd tlie only easy chair in the room. 
 A ^re.it dish (jf mai/.e was in front of the old woman, 
 whicii she was piekin;^ while the }.;irls wi-re sewinj.; on 
 ^^old mnslin or .sortin^^ their trinkets. In (>\\v of the 
 ui)per rooms was a >-oun;.^ woman established by her- 
 self in stclte, with a lari;e bVench bedstead coveretl with 
 pink silk, and with walls decorated in a most lovely 
 manner. This youn;>j lady was exhibited with j^reat 
 pride and w.is evidently a favorite. As the visitor 
 came down into the court a.L;ain three of the girls were 
 waiting f»r her, and one examined her dress; and 
 another laid hands on her sun-undirella, which she 
 opened with a cotpiettish smile and held over her 
 shoulder ; and a third gave her a prettily embroidered 
 handerchief They kissed their hand to the depailing 
 guest. Ni)t a b(H)k, or a llower, or guitar, or a jncturc 
 was to be seen. 
 
 Mairli j^Uli. — We got out of loathsome Tangier on 
 Monday evening, bound f(^r Catli/., on the French 
 steamer, Salvador, sailing from Marseilles t(j the "gem 
 of the sea." It was a long trip b\' oj.en bo.at from the 
 wretched dark stairs to the stcauKT, a fitting sequel 
 to the wrdk through the streets well suj)plied with dirt, 
 and diiukews, and Moors. The h.irbor was smooth, 
 however, and our hearts were fdled with hope with
 
 CADIZ. 22S 
 
 regard to the night passage we were entering \i[KyA. 
 We had a chatty LVench dinner on boanl. in wliieli the 
 demonstrative GaHic courtesy contrasted greatly with 
 the grulTand curt faslijon of the Anglo-vSaxons we had 
 met on our Meilitcrranean voyage. We dined hile and 
 retired early. About half-i)ast ten we got inider way, 
 and in less than an hour we were awakened hy " noise 
 and confusion," compared to which that which broke 
 up the ])()lilical meeting and disturbed the political 
 ideas of (i^ueral Cass .so uiauy jears ago was (juietiiess 
 itself. The revoKiug .screw was shaking the vessel 
 from steui to stern. The rattling of the engine wa.S 
 deafening. The waves were breaking mercilessly 
 against the sides of the ship, which was rolling a.s 
 if suffering from intenss internal pains. I thought 
 the voyage on the Mediterranean was bad enough, but 
 it was bliss itself compared with this trip across the 
 oiK'uing of the straits. All night the tunudt con- 
 timied. The wind whistled, the engine sighed, the 
 wa\es dashed. We reached Cadiz about seven o'clock 
 on Tuesday morning in the midst of rain, gloom, 
 and wind. A great roUi;h lateen saibboat drew up 
 alougside, our baggage was tuuibled into it, we tum- 
 bled in after the baggage, and for one long hour 
 we beat back and forth, luishipped and lost our til- 
 ler, were cuffed by the sail and bulTeted by the wind 
 and washed by rain and spray. At last we crept up 
 the wet and shining steps to the (juay and .started for a 
 hotel and a breakfast, having lost our .self- respect, our 
 confidence in mankind, and our romantic notions about 
 the sea. It did not take long to explore Cadi/.. It is 
 the whitest and cleanest city I ever saw. The walls of 
 the houses are the perfection of whitewash. The pave- 
 15
 
 22r, A Y1:AK in I'OKTUiIAL 
 
 Dicnts are as clean as the flagstones of a patio. The 
 people are cheerful, well-fed, and busy. The history 
 of the city is most romantic, including experiences 
 with the Romans, the Moors, tlie v^paniards, and all 
 othi-r navigating nations. It has a great cathedral, 
 a hea\'y, cold, massive, imposing, iu)sentiment;d, 
 famous, beautiful ."structure, be-douied and be-columned 
 extcrnall}' and internally, so lofty and gloomy and 
 hard tliat even the light of tlie gosi)el caiuiot enlighten 
 it. There is not a vista in the whole buihling. You 
 can ga/.e ui> to the high, heaven-shaped arches, but 
 \ou cannot look aUjug nave or passage or chapel. 
 The altar is discoiuagingly bad. The jiictures are 
 copies. There was a mass going on v.jien we entered, 
 and the voices (;f the .s'ugers reverberated through the 
 great walled spaces, and the organ pealed with a force 
 and beauty heard almost oidy amidst the tlumxlers of 
 a tempest among the hills. We left the cathedral 
 oppressed by its colorless and massive v/alls and 
 arches, and as we wandered away we turned and 
 l()oked back as one would on a hard and frowning 
 cl-i ff. We were obliged to go for rehef to a convent of 
 Caimehins where a crowd of 1>eggars had gathered for 
 a rehgious .service, and s<Hne of Mtuillo's jiictures 
 waiinerl and clieeicd our souls, W'e drove annnid the 
 h;u])or .side, along the <piay turned a contemptuous 
 look upon the sea, .snapjxjd (uir fingers at the waves, 
 and j)a)ing our n.si)ects to the sweet and busy town, 
 de])arted for Seville. 
 
 Our j«nirney through the valley of the " (»ua<lal(juivir, 
 gentle ri\er,"' was deliberate and delightful. We r;ui 
 through the salt marshes wliich lie at the mouth of the 
 fair .stream, reminding us of the Lynn marshes and the
 
 SEVILLE. 227 
 
 Eastern Railroad, only worse, and soon reached the 
 beautiful landscape for which Andalusia is famous. 
 The grain was waving in the wind, the grass was 
 springing, the broad ploughed lands were rejoicing it» 
 their rich brown, the pastures were adorned by flocks 
 of super!) sheep and herds of fine cattle and droves 
 of horses. The olive groves were like the luxuriant 
 orchards of a former New ]Cngland. My agricultural 
 eye was fully satisfied, and I realized how the Span- 
 iards and Moors and Romans 1»elieved in the possession 
 of land as the foundation (.)f wealth, and in agriculture 
 as the most reliable and substantial of all industries. 
 The journey roused all my slumbering rural tastes, 
 blunted somewhat by a winter in the city of Lisbon 
 and bv a prolonged experienc e on tlie sea. I tliought 
 lovingly of my acres, and I was inclined to despise 
 those mockers who have ridiculed my love of the land. 
 We reached vSeville about seven o'clock in the even- 
 ing and proceeded to the Ilc^tel de Madrid, through a 
 diversity of streets, some as wide as Pennsylvania 
 Avenue and some as narrow as the filthy lanes of 
 Tangier, To be seated at the dinner-table was but 
 the work of a moment, and as we sat there we were 
 joined by I'ercival Lowell, who rejoiced in us as we 
 did in hhn, and reminded us of New ]vngland even 
 more than the green hills of Andalusia had done, and 
 of Corea and Polo, and the lively scenes of cultivated 
 Poslon, and the graces of an accomi)lished writer. 
 
 The next morning we set forth to see Seville. W'e 
 saw the old, lovely cathedral, as beautiful as nature in 
 her fairest form, with its pictures(|ue tower, its graceful 
 minarets, its superb doorways, its artistic walls, rent 
 and riven and sn])ported by huge timbers, and appar-
 
 22S A YHAK IN PORTl'CiAL. 
 
 ently on the vcrt;c of dissolution. \Vc drove along the 
 glillcriiig palace of the Duke de Montpensier and the 
 great garden adjoining, and far out into the l)eautiful 
 coinitrN' Nshi'h surroinids the town. We t'\])lored the 
 " House of I'ilale," erected liy a devoted erusader and 
 handed down lhn»u;^li the ages as an exact model of 
 the home <;f the weak and wicked Roman ruler who 
 delivered Christ over to the bloodthirsty Jews, Asa 
 .specimen of beautiful ]»alatial architecture, with tiles 
 aufl stucco api)ropriate, it is finite uue<iualled. Wc 
 entered the Church of the Caridad, the Charity IIos- 
 ])ilal wliete the two great pictures of Murillo, the 
 " Moses Striking the Rock " and " Christ IMessing the 
 T/)aves and Im^Iics," hang in such a "dim religious 
 ligh.t" that it is impo>sil)le to study them, and where 
 you are bewildered by gilded colunuis .and fnie marbles; 
 And we drove out across the river into the suburbs, 
 where the .Mar(|uis I'ickman has his great pottery :uid 
 has accumulated his gre.it fortune. Von may be sure 
 I was e.iger to see one who bears the name for wliich 
 I have so nnich l')\c and rc-pcct and admiration, and 
 which has been so dear t') me all ni\' life. We strolI<d 
 thiciti^'.h his ^'jcat warehoiisc, and I 1< anifl fnmi the 
 biMihi r 'it ili<- MaMjui • that his fallui' came from I/»n- 
 i\i<]\ mit)i- lliMi) :ii>.ly yfais a^'.o and t;.tabli->h<'d the 
 biisiu' s", wlii' h h.id }.'row!i and pro-ijicred greatly under 
 the iiands of the fatnily. I'.eyond the nanu-, I coidfl 
 not trace ^!lc count < lion, i'ut for me the Jiame was 
 enou;.di, and I made u]» the lineage. 
 
 We met an Ameri'an party at dinner, Mrs. lUittcr- 
 field .and her dauediter. now Mrs. IJallard vSmith, .Mr. 
 LoweI^ and his fricTid Curtis, engaged in Spanish liter- 
 ature and art, who ;idj(rarne<l with my family to a gi])sy 
 dance, while I retired to write this gossipy jcjurnal.
 
 SEVILLE. 229 
 
 March j^oth. — We explored vSeville, and departed on 
 the niorninj; of the 27II1 for Badajos and Iyisl)OU, 
 leavinjL? l)eliind us a most aj^rcealde group of travel- 
 lers and a most intercstinj; and cliarmijiK city. When 
 .you have htconie familiar with Seville, you are not 
 surprised that tlie IMi<enieians clustered on its " plain," 
 that the Greeks and Romans f<»llo\ved in turn, and 
 that Julius Ciesar fell into its charms. One hy one 
 they all lield court here, and their marks remain to 
 this day. vSomehow its antifiuily impresses one more 
 tlian the ruins of Rome or the excavations of Pompeii, 
 Its attractions are so evident now — its climate, its 
 landscai)e, its distant views, its river— that you are 
 not surprised at any evidence of its ancient and hurled 
 luxury and refinement. When you wander heyond 
 the art and architecture for which Seville is famous, 
 you reach at once remains of Roman wealth and civili- 
 zation which are surpassed in nocpiarter of that world- 
 wide emi)ire. licneath a little villa;.;e less than five 
 mile-> from the river bank, now oecuj)ied hy Seville, lies 
 buried one of the most beautiful towns of ancient times, 
 now deserted by the windin^^ river and concealed from 
 hmniin vi( w. It;ilica was once a suiniiirr tes(»rt for 
 Koiiian plr:i-.nrt'-.scckers, the birth])l;ice of cnipi'rors 
 jitid scholars. I'onnded two hunduil yens before 
 Christ, it w.is ;idoineil with most sniiiptnoiis dwelling's 
 erected by the lovers of Andalusiaii langnor. The 
 (iotlis ]>reserved it in their merciless r:iv;i}^cs, ;iiid even 
 after the riser had char.Kvl its cotirse its pr(»^])erity 
 continned until the .Moors abandoned it as a slre.anv- 
 de'-erted conntry. On the spot once occupied by its 
 };or-eous builtlint,^s, its };anlens and amphitheatres, a 
 hundred \ears a;^o its ]);ivenients were discovered and 
 the nio^t beautiful and jnrfect amphitheatre was un-
 
 230 A YHAK IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 cartlad. T-roni the liiia- of its disc.vfiy tnilil now it 
 li.'is poun-d rr;ij;iiiciUsortlK. ;iit wliidi .'idonicd i[h y;:i\. 
 <liMis :iMd |)rd;i(vs inlo Hk- public ^'joiiiids ;iih1 tiiiis.-tmi 
 
 •-•r .Sx-Villc St.'ltlK'S ;llld ..lii-ic^ ;iild lo!llI)S of Mlnst 
 
 clabf^rale slrtuluiv have Ik-cu disojvcicd, and Uk.- usual 
 Ira^'cdy of imperial cities in ancient days is written on 
 the hurial-place of I). -una Unaca Osorio, who was 
 burned alive by I'edro the Cruel for rejeelin^r hj^^ 
 addresses. The ruins of Ilalica tell a story of Roman 
 luxury and medi.-eval beauty liardly surpassed any- 
 where within the limits of the j^reat empire. 
 
 lUtt the Seville into whose bosom all the wealth and 
 culture «.f Italica were poured, lias taken r.p the work 
 of her ancient sister and displays her charms of art 
 and architecture with all the beauty of the land she 
 occU])ies. She i)f)s-es^es at this day some relic of 
 every civilization which has ever found a home in her 
 IxM-deis. I'.eneath S:mtia;',o d M;iyor are the ruins of ;i 
 Koman lcm|,i. . Tlie 'Innvh of Santa Marina has a 
 beaulihil M.;oii h "h.qM 1. Sin S ilvador wa:-i a.n)o,f|nc 
 forc/nlurics. Sant;i Maiia la jll.uica was a synn^^.-u.- 
 d<nvn to J VM. 'I'll'' Al(:i/;ir, Hi.il m.. ,t inten-.tin;';^ :in<l 
 bcruitilul (omj.IitMtiMii <,r M.KMi.h and f'.oihic arcl'iitcc- 
 Inie, occupi<s the Nit<- <.l' the hou <• (.| Ca .>-,ar. and hart 
 borrowfl its decorations fnun Hm- Alhambia, Win; 
 Charles \'. was married to Isabel of roitu;;al in tiie 
 Kori^^eons hall whose vestibule was surroiuided with 
 Roman I'illars oiK-nin.-; out upon gardens like the Iles- 
 perides. whose air is still i)erfumed by oran-e-bloss(jms, 
 and whose paths wind throu.^;h the dark-j;reen slopes 
 and noweriuK shrubi)ery. Here the artificial pond 
 where Philip V. usrd to fish still sparkles in the sun. 
 Here are even now the baths in which Marin de Padilla
 
 SEVlLLt 23t 
 
 bnthc'l, and here the scene of her Iriuinphant rule over 
 Pedio llic Cniel, whn .suireiKk-red to no charms hut 
 hers, It) the j^reat hall of the atiihashadois this hhjod- 
 thirsly njonarch caused the Master of Salltia^;o, his 
 brother, to he murdered while he entertained him as 
 his guest ; and here he put Aha Said to death in order 
 to seize his jewels, amonj^ wliich was the " fair ruhy, 
 great like a racket-ball," which l)om l'e<lro gave to the 
 IJlack Prince, and which is the gem wliich now adorns 
 the crown of l-'ngland. The Christi;ni architecture of 
 Seville also stands uin'i\-alle 1 in graiuler.r and beauty. 
 The great catlu.dral, it is true, is tolterin.; beneath the 
 weight of years, but even amidst its artificial support it 
 fdls one with wonder and admiration. More than a 
 century it was in building, and it stamls to-day as a 
 museum of fine art, notwithstanding the spoliation of 
 the invatU'r inid the dishonesty of its architects. It is 
 a romantic gronj) of buildings in whith the cathedral 
 staiuls. Abo\e all tis's the (iir.dda, that bt;iutiful 
 lower which forms the (nii»halio feature of vScville, 
 whose belfry is g.ii ded with a molto from the I'nnerbs, 
 j\oiihii /)iuin'tii /('i/issiiiKi /idiis, and which, when 
 li};h1<d at iii;',ht, s' ciii'. to be a cluster of sl.iis in the 
 fnininii'nl, It w.r; (hiiii tliis towrr th;it tin* iniicssin 
 sunnr.fined the failhlnl to ]»ia><.rs, and heie the great 
 bells .sound foilli the si.;nal to solemn Christian cere- 
 monies. At its fool is the court of orange trees witli its 
 Moslem fcnintain, its Moorish arches, and bronze doors 
 of exipiisite design and construction. The Chapter 
 Library, founded by the son of CoUunbns, ofTcrs its 
 rich treasures close at hand to the .scholar of to-day, as 
 it once did to the canons to whom it was beiiueathed, 
 and you read the manuscript of CoUimbns' travels
 
 232 
 
 A Vt;AR IN I'Oi'TIYJAI,. 
 
 nixl Oie IrtMlisf <>( liis cabin coiiipaiiioii, T'clri de Aliacf), 
 wrillcn duriii;^' the cwiilfi-l voya^^e of discovery. I'l-oin 
 the walls al>(>\-e the hook-cases look down tlie portraits 
 of tlie archhisliops, %vlio were in their day tlie jalhirs 
 of the Churcli, and the vice-f;erents of God. At tlie 
 liead of the wide Iiall oj)enin^' into tlie lihrary stands 
 encase.l f(ir su].port and safety the sword of Coinit 
 Gonzales, which Garcia Perez de \'argas used in driv- 
 inj^ the Moors from vSeville. An inscription in \'isi- 
 goth hanj^s ujH)n the v/all, one of the remains of the 
 period of Ilonoratns in 64 1. The manuscripts and the 
 ve^um-1K^und volumes remind one of the period when 
 the monks of the middle ages kept the lam])S of litera- 
 ture trimmed and l)ur;;ini;, and of who'u Lon-felh.w in 
 " Hyperion "" says : " That they slept their lives away 
 is most initrue. I'or in an av;e when books were few, — 
 so few, so precious, that th<.-y were oftei; cliained to their 
 oaken shelves with imn chains, like K''ill<-y-'daves to 
 their ben<hev, these men, with their laborious hands, 
 Coj)ied u])on i)aichnient all tlie l-.u,- and wisdom of the 
 pa^.t, and trruisniitt< d it to u^. i'erhaps it is not too 
 mueh to say that but for the: e monks not one line of 
 the classics would have re.uhed our day. vSurely, 
 then, we can pardon someihin,:; to tliose superstitious 
 aj^es, ]»erh;.])s ( ven the niystieisiu of the scholastic 
 philosophy ; since afti r adl we cm find no harm in it, 
 oidy the mistaking; of the j-ossible for the re.-d, and the 
 hi-h asjiiritigs of the Jinman mind after a lon;;-sought 
 and unknown soiiu'what. I think the nrune of ^blrtin 
 Luther, the monk of Wittenber-, alone sufTicient to 
 redeem all monkliood from tl;e repro;ich of la/.iness. 
 If this will not, pjrh.aps the vast folios of Thomas 
 Aquinas will ; or the colorless manuscripts still treas-
 
 Sr.VlLLH. 233 
 
 iircd in the old libraries, whose yellow atul wrinkled 
 pages remind one of the hands lliat wrote them and 
 the faces that once bent over them," 
 
 But not alone the works of art and architecture and 
 genius which stand rotnul al^out the cathedral, but the 
 internal beauties also fdl the mind with lofty thoughts 
 and warm the heart with hi)ly emotions. The Core, 
 the Gothic Retablo, the Capilla Real, the Chapter 
 House, all represent the power of architecture to ex- 
 press the religious sentiments. In their keeping, 
 moreover, arc deposited the works of the most in- 
 spired painters. The " Guardian Angel " of Murillo, 
 representing the loftiest love and the most earnest and 
 childlike confidence, greets you as you enter, and the 
 " Visiou of St. Anthony," in which the infant Jesus is 
 advancing from the radiance of heaven through groups 
 of angels to pour into the soul of the devoted saint all 
 the strength and beauty of a child's love, l)lesses you 
 as >ou dei)arl. These children e\pre>s all that Mu- 
 rillo desired lo jjresent in his ixtrtraitures of the child 
 Je^us, and which he fuled to present in so m:uiy of his 
 pictures. The comitanion of llie " Guardian Angel," 
 and the radiant form which advances along the heaven- 
 ly way to meet »St. Anthony, are children with all the 
 perfection of cliildliood, all the sweet maturity of in- 
 fruicy, which is perha])S more iin])reNsive than that of 
 riper years. The faith and hope and exalt.iti(»n which 
 Murillcy has wrought into these little faces, the ecstasy 
 of attitude and motion which marks their forms as 
 their spirits irradiate tlieir features, show how ihor- 
 (nighly he understootl and ai)preciated tliat marvellous 
 pcnver wliich constitutes the " wisilom of babes," and 
 which tlie Great Teacher recognized when lie taught
 
 23 t A YL'AK IN I'OKTIJ(}AL 
 
 his disciples to become as little children. I am sorry 
 to say that Murillo, and not he alone, painted too 
 many infants and not enough children ; too many de- 
 pendents and not enougli companions fitted to inspire 
 and competent to recei^"e the depth and meaning of 
 parental love. In the gallery where is found the great 
 collection of his works this defect is most manifest. 
 Neither the strength of maternity nor the strength of 
 childhood appears in many of his pictures, which are 
 too often portraits of sweet peasant girls with infants 
 in their arms. But when lie rises to the full capacity 
 of his genius no artist, ancient or modern, equals him 
 in the delineation of that spiriiucUc which belongs to 
 the \'irgin and the Child — not even Raphael with his 
 rol)ust but s])irituali/ed iHjrnarinas and his inspired 
 Italian Ixtys. And so Murillo gives \-itality and 
 greatness to Seville. It was his home. Here he 
 wc^rked, and here stands his nujiiument overlooking 
 the sphere of his labors and glorifying the si)ot he 
 made immortal, as the lofty statue of Cameons com- 
 mands the hills and sipiares of Lisbon. Here also is 
 Murillo' s house, lying close to the city wall in the pictu- 
 resque Jews' quarter, and containing many rare frag- 
 ments of his art, small pictures of the \'irgiu and 
 Child, a young John Baptist with the lamb, a Head 
 of Christ, accompanied by a little collection of works 
 of his friends and contemporaries. 
 
 Seville has many points of great interest, and her 
 history is most eventful and fascinating. Her com- 
 mercial record connects her name with every maritime 
 nation, and the river on whose bank she stands belongs 
 not only t(» the courses of trade, but to poetry and 
 romance. She has been the abo<le of great ])ower, bore
 
 SEVILLE. 235 
 
 once a Punic name, was re-baptized ])y the Greeks, 
 then by the Moors, was the Ronuila or Httle Rome of 
 Cxsar, was the capital of the Goths, gave archbishops . 
 who are now its sainted tutclars to the Church, surren- 
 dered to the vSheik of Jaen. furnished the model of 
 Don Quixote, was the capital of Spain until Charles V. 
 removed the court to Valladolid, and when the New 
 World was discovered " Ik came the mart of the golden 
 colonics and the residence of princely njcrchants." 
 lUit the pride of the rf)yal city now is the fact that 
 here Murillo wrought, and here his works and memory 
 are cherished. 
 
 We approached Seville over the fertile valley of the 
 GuadaUiuiver, whose agricultural charms I have al- 
 ready <le>cribed. When we left it we traversed the 
 same regioti of olive-groves and vineyards until we 
 reached the high and rugged ridges which divide them 
 from the lauds of e(iual fertility and beauty through 
 which the Guadiana flows. The broad landscape was 
 made up of a succession of wide wheat fields, newly 
 phmghed and newly planted hillsides and valleys, and 
 innuense groves of olive-trees. Men and women in 
 small groups were toiling on the land, and great flocks 
 of sheep and goats, obedient to the call of the shep- 
 herd, grazed on the pastures. It was very easy to 
 understand why Roman and Spaniard had made this 
 region the seat of their pi)wer, and why they .so reluct- 
 antly relin([uished their ^Kisse.ssions there. It was easy 
 to .-^ee why the spirit of the jx-ople was in accord with 
 Ct)lumbus in his great work of disccnery, and to realize 
 the wealth and strength to be derived from agricidturc 
 alone. From very early morning to early evening we 
 travelle<l on a train whose speed was limited by law to
 
 2;,r, A YIIAK IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 fifteen miles iui hour, mid which required no lep^fil 
 restraint to confir.e it to such shr^i^isli progress, and 
 found ourselves \n Mcrida called upon to change for 
 Ikulajos. Merida is on the Guadiana. has a Roman 
 ])ri(lge built bv Trajan, which has withstood bravely 
 the ravages of time and ilood and the I-'rench invasion, 
 — that convulsion so fatal to art and architecture, and 
 literature and science, and social peace and prosperity 
 in Sixain. It was to stop Marmont that the arches of 
 the liridge were destnned. Merida has a Roman castle 
 which has been occupied by the bishop and by the 
 Knights Templar, an arch built by Trajan, the remains 
 of a Circus Maxinuis, an old church erected in the 
 fourth century, a M<jor'sh Alca/ar built by the Moors 
 in H35, ;uifl a Museum of Roman Antifpiities. 
 
 A slow run of a few miles brought us to Badajos, 
 wliere we remained a couple of hours and prepared f(^r 
 a night-jomiiey to Lisbon. Badajos is a miserable 
 town. Of course it h:;s a fnie bridge across Ihe Gau- 
 diana, three or four hundred >ears old, a public 
 s(]uare, in which stand a cathedral, an advertised m/'i', 
 and a town-hall. The cathedral has considerable 
 merit .and the tower considerable dignity. There are 
 hard old paintings, and picturescpie cloisters covered 
 with layer after layer of whitewash. Badajos as a 
 frontier town has seen the fights and sieges so frequent 
 in S]ianish municipalities. Alon/o IX. took it from 
 the Moors in I2;^5 ; the Portuguese besieged it in 1050; 
 Jose I maz .sold the ])lace to .Sonlt in iSio; inefficient 
 I'.eresford failed to rec<n'er it; and the Duke of Wel- 
 lington turned his attention to it, of course stormed it, 
 his soldiers sacked it, and he obtained a i)osition which 
 enabled him to hold Lisbon and to drive the French
 
 IJADAJOS. 237 
 
 from the north. liadajos is a wcll-forlificcl town ; its 
 gateways and bastions presenting a most imposing 
 appearance, and this is all. It stands in that delight- 
 ful agricultural region I have descril)ed, and has been 
 a centre of every form of civilization since the days of 
 the Romans. 
 
 We left it with jileasure on a night-train for Lisbon, 
 in a com])artment car without sleci)ing accommoda- 
 tions, and imjirisoned in that barbarous and disgusting 
 fashion the traveller finds so often in Ivurope — acconnno- 
 dations which wonUi Ijc deslroycd in America as soon 
 as a decent and outraged peo])lc could get at them. I 
 bought three first-class tickets at Ikidajos, or supposed 
 I did, having paid a firNt-class price, paid for a bag- 
 gage-check, look my seat, followed by my family, who 
 were j^rejiared to share the dangers and sufferings of the 
 trip. We arranged ourselves as comfortably as po.ssi- 
 ble, purMied our wa\' a few miles to the frontier 
 cu^tom-lu)Use, had our baggage paNsed thiough the 
 influence of an imposing diplomatic passport, and then 
 SL-tlled down for the night with every discomfort of a 
 cramped position, a rattling, jolting car, and a rough 
 track. The painful hours wore away until about mid- 
 night, when two persons clad in male attire insisted on 
 entering and taking what room there was kft. This 
 was done against our gentle protests. Our mild asser- 
 tions ha<l no efiect, nor had our united vociferations in 
 profane ICnglish when one of the persons ([uietly drew 
 a cigarette from his pocket, lighted it, and conunenced 
 that fumigatory outrage n:et with all over Spain and 
 Portugal. We opened the wimlows to let the fresh 
 cold night-air in and the storm and smoke out. After 
 a while the cigarette was meekly extingui.shcd — but
 
 238 A YFiAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 not initil two Il^criaiis had k-ariK-d the sound of Ameri- 
 can imprecation. 
 
 I liad been cheated at Badajos, having paid first-class 
 price for second-class tickets. In the night-time I was 
 infornied that I was in a wrong carriage, was obhged 
 to jiay my additional fare, and proceeded. \Vc reached 
 Liijbon at six o'clock.
 
 CHAPTHR Xlll. 
 
 LISBON.-ANTIQUITY.— ARCHITECTURE.-- 
 AN INTI;IWI[:W. 
 
 Afyril .f(/i. — When I ivtunicd from Rome I found 
 CIk'sUt Iictv, who loved art and knew all the artists, 
 and never put brush to canvas nor fin^x-r to clay ; 
 who loved books and was intimate with all good 
 authors, and never wrote a volume ; who was welcome 
 at the fireside of all great thinkers, and knew how 
 to encourage them without interference ; who talked 
 of drowning and Lowell, and Story and Tennyson, 
 and Longfellow and Agassi/, as friends, and was 
 Chester the sympathizer with them all. He had 
 started from New York and had travelled thnmgh 
 I/)ndon, and Paris, and Rome, and Venice, and Naples, 
 and Madrid, and had come to Lisbon to sec something 
 new. "Nobody goes to Lisbo!i," he said ; "nobody 
 seems to know much about Lisbon ; an old friend of 
 mine came down here in liis yacht, and lay a fortnight 
 in the harbor without going ashore, so poor an opinion 
 had he of the attractions of Lisbon. Ikit how do you 
 manage to do up Rome in a week ?" asked he. " As 
 the Frenchman did," said L " There were three of 
 us," he replied to a similar question. " myself, my 
 wife, and the boy ; in the da\time I took the restau- 
 rants, my wife went through the churches, and the boy
 
 210 A YIIAR IN I'OKTl'GAL. 
 
 walked the galleries. We all met in the evening and 
 compared notes," Unt it wa.s evident this plan would 
 not answer for the unknown l,isl;on, and it was there- 
 fore dcterjnihed that Chester should join mc in the 
 cxploriiij^j expedition, and enjo}' the pleasures and sur- 
 prises of a new laiul. To him ]',ngland meant P.rown- 
 inj; an<l Mrs. l>rowniiit^ anrl Landr^r, and in old times 
 Ro;;ers' break fasl-lahle ; Paris mvaiit Dutnas. f^rrr it 
 /lis, \'ietor Hu.^M, Al])h<)n>e Dauflet, Alfred de Mnsset, 
 an>l Sainle-lUnve ; Roim- meant a hrilliant K^"""!' ''^ 
 lCn.i;li>h aii'l AiiuTie.ms ; .Madrid iiiiuiit Castelar, 
 wh(;m Cluster loved hi-cause Sumner loved him. The 
 miii'l of the y;n-at Spanish orator aiul repuhlic-an was 
 still occupied with the re\«/)ution in ]>ra/.il, and I have 
 no douht it was his discussion f>f Portugal in this con- 
 nection that had filled Chester's mind with a desire to 
 .see Lishon. It was evident that Castelar hoped 
 tlirough tlie influence of Pirazil to .see the House of 
 Ih'agan/.a aii<l all its coiuu'ttions utterly o\'crthrown in 
 Portugal, lie coiisolvd himself with the idea that 
 l)om Carlos, th.e reigning king, is really a i)rince of 
 the house of C<jburg, Ijut this was not the utter an- 
 nihilation of the family which he had long waited for. 
 " It is the two centuries and a half of Bragan/.a rule," 
 said he. "which ha\e pre\ented Portugal from joining 
 that rc])ul)lican movement which lias occupi<-(l the 
 thfaivhb. of I'.iuopi', and wc lii\e .--.ccn that unhappy 
 king<loin deli\aied by this f.imily first to the Jesuits 
 and afterwards to ]'"ngland. so that she should ne\er 
 enjoy independence .an<l autouom\' of her own." Cas- 
 telar charged this family with ha\ing lost the Indies 
 and I5ra/.il, and i)robably would h.ave charged to tliem 
 the recent despoiling of Africa. He denounced their
 
 LISBON. 241 
 
 flight to Brazil and their acceptance of a constitution 
 for Portugal at the hands of iCnghuid, condemned in 
 uiuneasured terms the reactionary movement of Dotu 
 Miguel, and ridiculed the a])i)eal of Maria Gloria for 
 aid to defend " what in the language of the Hragan- 
 zas is called the monaichy and ijulependence of Lus- 
 itania." 
 
 Castelar thinks that Portugal n)eanwhile has been in 
 fluenced largely by Kra/il — the only instance in history 
 in which a colony liasconlrollcd a mollicr coiuitry. He 
 says : " She supjilied the sinews of war in the contests 
 witli vSpain ; she filled the coffers of the Uragan/.as ; she 
 sent forth the liberal charters which Dom Pedro, father 
 of the ex-emperor, granted to Portngal ; her rulers have 
 joined every power engaged in the humiliation of Portu- 
 gal. And now it is to be hoped thai a rjsitig repnblic in 
 Brazil will extend its influence to that mother country 
 .she has ruk-d so lf)ng. The deposition of Doiii Pedro 
 ends the Braganza rule, and gives Portugal an oppor- 
 tunity for a new career, a career which the Braganzas 
 might have inaugurated had lliey had wisdom and cour- 
 age sufllcient for such no])le work. P'or more tluui fifty 
 years he has worn the crown which he inherited from 
 those who lost to Portugal all her resplendent power in 
 .South America and tlie Indies, and has cherished all Ihc 
 wr.ith which naliually fills upon the authors of siuh (hs- 
 asteis in the fimilies which sufler from their fudls and 
 follies, 'I'lie republicans of Portugal posses->all these ii ri- 
 tating men lories as a source of strength to their own cause. 
 To their friends in lirazil they send word.-, of encourage- 
 ment and congratulation, evidently feeling that day has 
 dawned also for themselves. Should mi'U of affairs 
 arise to j^dve eflect to the teachings and doctrines of
 
 212 A YEAR IN rORTUGAL. 
 
 those who are endeavoring^ to lead Portuguese tliought 
 iu the paths of free government, tlie work of regenera- 
 tion will begin and go on to a rapid consummation. 
 Ihit thus far these ])raclical leaders have not arisen. 
 It is to l)f feared that the strength of monarchy in 
 INtrtngal consists in the indifference of the jieople, 
 whieh no .'ippi-ai of le;iders c.in ri'inove, i'opul:ir edn- 
 cution tli(.i<.' s<-<.iiis not to have iuspiriil popidar free- 
 dom. I{ra/,il is now removed beyond the range of 
 influence, and her future no longer ccMitrols the future 
 of Portugal ; and Brazil will not reti'.rn to the Bragan/a 
 rule — she has got fir beyond that." " But then," said 
 Cluster, "I could not help thinking, as I listened to 
 Castelar, that it was better never to have secured a 
 republican form of government than to have lost it 
 wheti once gained. 1 hanlly dared to suggest this, 
 however, to Castelar." 
 
 It was on account of this intcn'iew with Castelar at 
 this most iiitercsting period of Portuguese history that 
 Chester had come to learn what he could about Lisbon, 
 lie was not nnich of a politician, but he had devoted 
 himself and all he had as a citi/.en to the cause of his 
 country in the Civil War, and this experience has pro- 
 dmed in his mind a <!i(.j) interest in natif)nal affairs. 
 Besides, he found no difhi ulty in fnuling records of the 
 social ;ind civil hf'e of abnost every cnnnntniity fn^ni 
 New \'i>\k to Corea, along every ]);irallel of latitude and 
 ui):uid down every meridian of longitude ; and a reason- 
 able recc>r<l of Lisbon, with its fine harbor, and its ])ictu- 
 resque location, and its curi(;us mixture of importance 
 and prominence and seclusif^n. Chester is sociably in- 
 clined, and manages to become part of every s<x'ial organ- 
 ization with which hecomesin contact. At dinner-parties
 
 LISBON. 243 
 
 lie is the life of the table, is always welcome, and makes 
 his seat at the feast tlie centre of great wit and genialty. 
 A rcccjition at whicli he is })rcsent is never kncnvn to 
 \)c (hill. An afternoon call of his is an event from 
 wliich a family can date a new era. and an cvein'ng 
 spent by him at tlie fireside is not forgolten nnlil he 
 };i\'es a new one to lake its place, lie makes it his first 
 hnsiness to l)eeoiue intimate with llie towti. and con- 
 siders the hospitality <»f the people to be the fonndation 
 of all its intellectual and moral and reli>;i()ns life. Ob- 
 serving a community at arm's length he considers most 
 unsatisfactory business, and having had large expe- 
 rience in all the great cities of luirope and America, he 
 recpiires no guide to his entrance into society and no 
 leader after he gets there. ICntcrtaimnents of this 
 descrijition have so long formed a part of his life that 
 he seldom alludes to them as matters of importance in 
 conversation, and, as he is no gossip, he seldom gives 
 an account of what is said or done, unless he happetis 
 to meet some ])erson of distinction, whose f)piuions or 
 experiences are valuable. Chester was very busy during 
 his stay in Lisbon, and, as I heard nothing to the cou- 
 trary, I infer his time was divided between investigating 
 the eurious and thrilling history of the plaee, visiting 
 the many objects of interest, and atlinding the balls, 
 routs, assemblies, and dimiers, with which every ricl> 
 and ctUlivated comnuniity abounds, and which consti- 
 tute the difference between the fascinating life of the 
 town and the dull monotony of a country village. 
 Once or twice I think lie alluded to the brilliant con- 
 versation of souie beautiful and accomjilished young 
 woman whose knowledge of literature and art had 
 astonished him, and of the costly jewels of some
 
 244 A YHAR IN ffiKTLGAL. 
 
 dowagcT whose ancestors had entered early ujxjti the 
 diaiiKJiul nuncs of Golconda or th.c emerald riches of 
 Brazil. As he fonned very definite opinions on the 
 African tjuestion, and expres^ed on one occasion great 
 adniir.'.tion for Ser])a Pinto, I snjipose he met occasion- 
 ally S'>nie minister of stale (;r jjcrhnps a member of the 
 Geograj)hic:d Society, and became familiar with the 
 best o])inion of Lisbon on this disputed matter. He 
 seemed to have learned the exact Ixmndary lines which 
 enclose, the territory along the Zambezi, the Shira, and 
 in Massononoland, which i'(irtu;<al discovered and occu- 
 pied long bcf(jre the British flag floated in South Africa 
 or a British keel divided the waters of the Indian Ocean. 
 Into the sources of hi> knowledge I ne\er in([uired, my 
 own time being chiefly o<vui)ied in securing the rights 
 of yVmerican citizens in the Delagoa Bay Railroad. I 
 never met any one else who knew so much about Li^bon 
 .v^ciety, or who fouiid so many intimate friends in this 
 city in so slioil a ■^jkicc of time. 
 
 The s'xial charms of the place, howcNcr, did not 
 draw Clie.tcr away fronj the object he IkhI in view 
 when he cam'- to Lisbon, in addition to tlw pleasure of 
 U)'-' ting an oM fiiin'] a pi' asnre wlii'h he always 
 counted siiptiior to all ollu-is. 
 
 To learn the intent and meaning <jf any place one must 
 commence, Chester thinks, with its history and origin. 
 15ul IJsbon. I suggested, seems never to ha\'e had a 
 beginning. If it had been founded on the hunting- 
 gromids of an exterminated Indian tribe there might 
 be some hope for its antiquarian ex])lorer. If it coidd 
 be tra' ed into the regions of fable— that would hold <nit 
 .some hojie. lint to Ix: told that Lisbon was founded by 
 the great-grandson of Noah, or by I'lysses after the
 
 ANTIQUITY. 24 S 
 
 destruction of Troy, is quite discouraging, considering 
 
 the cloud of mystery which hangs over Noah and 
 Ulysses themselves. We must content ourselves, 
 therefore, with th.e subjugation of Portugal ])y Car- 
 thage under the lead of Hainiiljal as the beginning of 
 the active existence of Lisbon. That I^isbon was 
 attractive from the very outset is easily understood. 
 Its harbor is by far the best on the entire coast of 
 I'Airope from the Clyde to the Adriatic. To every 
 storm-tossed mariner skirling the coast in his little 
 ancient shallop, the month of the Tagus offered a 
 refuge, and the wide bay into which he floated as he 
 reached the site of a fnture city gave a haven of rest 
 and safety. The l>eauty of the scene, too. was unsur- 
 passed. The hills on which the town now rests .swept 
 their curves along a sky of singular radiance, and were 
 clothed with perennial forests and adorned with great 
 clusters of the rose and the myrtle. The fame of all 
 this natnral charm reached the remotest regions occu- 
 pied by man — and Roman, Oolh, Vandal, and M<Kjr 
 struggled ailernalely f<>r the great possession. There is 
 nothing in all history more weird and oppressive than 
 the wild and sweeping cf^Uests which raged over this 
 l.-iiid, from the earliest periods of the Chiislian era to 
 the Peninsular wars of Napoleon. Here the Moors 
 secured their power in the early part of the eighth cen- 
 tury, and for more than three hundred years held their 
 gloomy sway over Lisbon. Here the great Alfonso 
 Henri(iues swept on with his victorious forces from 
 Ouricpie to Lisb(jn, through a career of slaughter and 
 siege and fimine and h(*rror and victory. Here Don 
 Juan, King of Castile, besieged the city and furnished 
 another ciiapler of "man's inhumanity to man," and
 
 246 A YliAK IN PORTUGAF,. 
 
 of wliat is called valor and courage. Here in 1580 the 
 city WPS taken by Philip I. and the Cf)nspiracy against 
 vSi)anish dominion broke out, ending in seating the 
 Braganza family on the Portuguese throne. Here the 
 Prior of Crato, who had been declared king on the 
 death of Cardinal Doni Henri([ne, fought his fatal 
 battle with Alba, and Lisbon was delivered over to 
 Spanish atrocities. Here in the middle of the 
 eighteenth century the great earthquake swept away 
 the town, and Pond)al defied the destructive power of 
 nature and outraged the rights of man. Here the 
 armies of Napoleon committed their ra\-ages and Wel- 
 lington dis]ila\ed his genius. Here the Miguelites 
 exercised their cruelty, and here this long period o( 
 strife- and blood terminaled in the accession of the 
 pr(.sent royal family to the throne. To recount the 
 personal suffering of all this period, the tortures and 
 nuirders, the destruction of life by disease and starva- 
 tion, would be merely to tell a tale which belongs to 
 the saviigery of war. It is only especially noticeable 
 because it constitutes the career of I.isbon. During 
 this C(Mistant struggle the vast colonial possessions of 
 Portugal had been secured in India and vSouth America, 
 the wealth of the world had been ]>oured into her cof- 
 fers, the names of John de Castro and \'asco de Oama 
 had been enrolled among the great of the earth, and 
 Portugal had achieved an earthly jwjwer unecpialled in 
 her day and had built an empire on the sand. Of her 
 philoso])liy and art and literature and cidture the names 
 of St. Anthony of Padua and Luis de Camoens and 
 Padre Vieira and Pope John XXL almost alone re- 
 main, with her nioiunnental churches and despoiled 
 monasteries, to bear witness to her genius and devotion.
 
 ANTIQUITY. 247 
 
 The early conversion of Lisbon to Christianity gave 
 it an important position iti the chnrch, and its ecclesi- 
 astics have always held an intimate relation with Rome. 
 To its relief came a great body of Crusaders who, in 
 1 147, paused on their way to the Holy Sepulchre to aid 
 AfTonso Ilenriques in expelling the Moors. In 1394 it 
 was raised to the rank of an Archbishopric and became 
 the capital of the kingdom. At the Castilian usurpa- 
 tion in 1580 it was reduced to the rank of a ])r()vincial 
 city, and was only r^stc^rcd by Dom John \'., who 
 adonied it with many of its fnusl public buildings, 
 many of which were destroyed by the great eartluiuakc 
 of 1755, whose marks remain to this day. 
 
 The i^olitical career of Lisbon has bec!i interesting 
 and perhaps important. Tlie seat of a great empire 
 one day, a dependency the next, the stronghold of an 
 usurper at one time and the loyal home of a royal family 
 at another, it has passed from one era to another with- 
 out exerting a controlling iulluence on the kingdom. 
 In ])olitical agitation and progress Oporto has always 
 been its rival. And its political distinction has been 
 gained mainly as the home of c()ntending rivals for 
 power. 
 
 The view out from Lisbon is nuicli finer than the 
 view from the river into it. While it is a strong 
 well-built town, the absence of towers and cupolas and 
 minarets injures greatly its general effect. vStanding on 
 any one of its hill-toj^s and looking over the wide river 
 to the mountains beyond, you are impressed with the 
 rare beauty o[ the scenery. The architectural taste of 
 the buildings is manifest in their interior, while their 
 exterior is chiefly markeil by strength antf solidity. 
 Of course the city abounils in churches, as does every
 
 2 IS A YliAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 Catholic couiitn- ; hut \vheii one has carefully studied 
 the Church and Convent of St. Jerome at Beleni, the 
 real beauty of Church architecture in Lisbon is ex- 
 hausted. After Burgos and Seville and the Alhambra 
 the cluster of churches in Lisbon ajipears somewhat 
 connnonplace ; and among the two hundred ])laces 
 of worship in the cai)ital the ICstrella and the .San 
 Roxiua — with the remains of tl'.e Carmo left by the 
 earth([uake — are the most interesting. 
 
 Of the churcli at Ik'lem I have already .said enough 
 an<l I can do no better than give Chester's account of 
 the structures which attracted his attention chiefly. 
 Tinc IJasii.ica do C<)K.\i;\o di: Ji:srs, commonly called 
 the J-'strella, situated on the high ground which forms 
 that i)art '»f Lisbon named Ikienos A\res, was to his 
 mind and is to mine the most satisfactory and attractive 
 of all the ecclesiastical structures in the city. It is situ- 
 ated in a wide (/pen ])la/a on a most cousjjicuous point 
 and commands a charming view of the city and .sur- 
 rounding country. It has the onh' fine dome to be 
 seen and attracts the attention of all who a])]>roach the 
 town — a dome of great merit. 
 
 The church owes its origin to a vow made by I)(^na 
 Maria I. for the birth of an heir to the throne, in ful- 
 fdment of which it was Imilt, being commenced in 
 1779 and completed in 1790. The architecture is in 
 imitation of the famous convent at Mafra, especially 
 the dome and the two towers. The four colo.ssal fig- 
 ures on the ]K'rist\le rei)iesent faith, adoration, liberal- 
 ity, and gratitude, qualities .so conspicuous in the 
 royal foundress. The inuiges in the niches are Jst. 
 Theresa, St. IClias, and St. Mary Magdalene de Paz/.i. 
 The tv.o statues in the vestibule are our I'lessed Lady
 
 AKCHITCCTURn. 249 
 
 and vSt. Joseph. In the sanctuary are two seraphs 
 beautifully executed, and on the epistle is the mauso- 
 leum of Dona Maria I., whose remains were brought 
 hither from Rio de Janein), where she died in 1H16. 
 It has been said by critics that some portions of this 
 church are over-ornamented, but the interior is of 
 conunanding height, tlie chapel is most in\p(»sing, and 
 the coloring and gilding in strong contrast to the gen- 
 erally cold and colorless fniish of most of the Lisbon 
 churches. The effect of the Ivstrella is so fme that it 
 is easy to imagine yoinsclf in a much more elaborate 
 order of architecture tlian belongs to Portugal. Great 
 genius was manifested by the architects and artists 
 engaged in the erection and adonnnent of the structure. 
 vSan Rooui;, which was most carefully studied by 
 Chester, was formerly in the hands of the Jesuits to 
 whom it was given by Kingjolui III. in 1533. I'rom 
 its i)ulpit once preached vSt. hVancis Horjia, and his 
 cloak, darned by. himself with white thread, is ])re- 
 ser\ed as a relic. What good pictures there are in 
 Lisbon are found mainly in this church, whicii was 
 built by John V. with the treasures brought from the 
 Bra/.ils, anrl who lavished great sums on the chapel of 
 St. John the Haptist, which on accovnit of the name he 
 took luider his special care. 
 
 Dimensions of the chapel were sent to Rome with 
 instructions to the Portuguese ambassador to have a 
 chapel made of the richest materi.il and fmest work- 
 manship, regardless of expense. The chapel was con- 
 secrated by pope Benedict XIV., who received for this 
 favor from the King a proent of /"lo.ot^). 
 
 The construction of the chapel is most gorgeous. 
 Tl'.e exterior of the arch is of coral, with the royal
 
 250 A YI:AR IN I'DI/TUf^AL. 
 
 arms of Portugal on the keystone supported by two 
 ala1>aster angels. The interior of the arch is of ala- 
 ba>ter. A balustrade of vcrd-antique divides the chapel 
 from the body of the church, the entrance U) it being by 
 two side-doors of bron/.e delicately worked, with jambs 
 and lintels of verd-antique. The walls are of black 
 marble, jald-anti(iue, and alabaster, with pilasters of 
 jal(l-anti([ue. Over the doors are two mosaics set in 
 porphyry frames. The cornice is of jald-antiquc re- 
 lieved with bron/.e. The vaulted roof is of the same 
 stone and verd-antique ornamented with jasper. Over 
 the altar is a large mosaic with porphyry frame, repre- 
 .senling the bajjtism of Christ in the Jordan, In this 
 mosaic are a figure of th.e ICternal I'ather, grou]5S of 
 angels, the <]o\e (ksreiiding, and fignies <if the two 
 Marys, 'I'lie mosaic <>u the gospel si<le represents 
 the descent of the Ib^ly Oho>t <;n the Apostles and the 
 Blessed Virgin ; that ojjposite is the Anniuiciati(Mi. 
 These mosaics are the first works of their class in 
 ICnrope, and are so well executed that m.any incredu- 
 lous visitors refuse to believe they are otlier than oil- 
 paintings until they have carefully examined them by 
 the touch. 
 
 On either side of the princi])al mosaics are cohunns 
 of lapis-la/.uli, with bron/.e ca.pitals ; the wall at the 
 back of tin; columns is of alabaster and amethysts ; the 
 architecture is of jald, and the figures of the angels are 
 of jasper. The si)ace between the altar and the mosa- 
 ics is filled with coral, amethysts, and lapis-lazuli. 
 The floor is a marble mosaic iidaid with porphyry 
 imitating a richly Howcred carpet with a globe in the 
 centre. These inosaics weie made in the Vatican 
 tnanufactory, and an- co[!i<'i of piitiires by Mii-hael
 
 ARCHITECTURE. 251 
 
 Angclo, Guido Reni, and Raphael, The cost of this 
 superb slniclure was more than ;[^2oo,ooo. 
 
 But the fascinating church in Lisbon is the IgrEJA 
 K CoNVKNTo DO Cakmo — the mined Carmo — the great 
 edifice stricken by the earthquake nearly a centur>- and 
 a half ago. and standing there witliout roof and with 
 broken arches and coluuuis, so grand in its decay that 
 the imagination exhausts itself in the work of replac- 
 ing the vanished beauty to accord with what remains. 
 The Carmo was bviilt in t)ie latter part of tlic fourteenth 
 and the early part of the fifteenth centuries, to com- 
 memorate the great victory of Aljubarrota. It was 
 founded by the I/)rd High Constable Pereira, the com- 
 mander of llif Portuguese on that field, and was erected 
 at his expense. It was dedicated to the Carmelite 
 nnMiks, and in its pe.uefnl cloisters the great captain 
 ])assed the close of his life in religions seclusion. In all 
 its design and association Carmo is the most impressive 
 structure I have yet seen; as a ruin its grandeur is 
 unsurpassed ; as a collection of broken architectural 
 beauty it is (juite unequalled. 
 
 When it was demolished by the earthquake its roof, 
 which stretched over an enorm;viis nave i6o feet in 
 length, fell upon the hundreds of devotees who had 
 gathered there on the morning of All Saints' day, 
 and not one escaped. As you traverse the floor, 
 from which the accumulation of broken marbles has 
 at last been removed, you .see high above you the 
 lofty arch of the sanctuary still remaining, and the 
 displaced ribs of many of the smaller arches, held in 
 position by their perfect constructiiMi. which even that 
 great convulsion could not entirely destroy. The 
 remaining eobuinis .and capitals are models of beauty.
 
 252 A YRAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 In iuMition lo the relics which Ihc church itself has 
 furnished, the sanctuary and collateral chapels have 
 been converted into a most interesting museum of the 
 Arclueological Society — a collection of antiques from 
 Greece and Rome — window-panes and doors of ancient 
 convents, rare niarl^les and medallions. Mafra has 
 furnished a beautiful iron railing with bronze orna- 
 ments. Models of the Acrop(jlis, the Circus Maxinius. 
 and other classical buildint^s, as well as of the tomb of 
 the founder, attract as much attention as models are 
 entitled to. An U])rii.;ht fi;.^ure in nnnor re])rcsenls 
 Xuno Ahara/ Pen.ira as Lord High Constable, and a 
 recumbent figure represents him in the habit of a Car- 
 melite friar. If you would be reminded of the valor, 
 and fanaticism, and devotion, and ancient power, and 
 tragic cxjierience of Portugal, study the church and 
 cotnent of Carmo — what there is left of it. 
 
 Of the rest of the churches in Lisbon there is little to 
 Ik- said. They are all of one style, and dilTer ouly as 
 "one star dilTereth from another star in glory." And 
 here I lea\e Chester pondering upon the irregular 
 architecture of the kingdom.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 LITERATURH.-SCULPTURH.-PALACKS— COACHHS. 
 -POLITICS. 
 
 April <?///.— Having studied the churches, Chester 
 turned his attention to the Hterature of Lisbon. Of 
 course he was first attracted by Canioens, the poet of 
 I'ortu^^al, whose statue towers above the .sciuare on 
 which it stands — a colossal bronze presentment c)f the 
 once abused and now deified author, mounted on a 
 lofty marble pedestal, around which stand statues of 
 Lopes the historian, Pedro Nunes the cosmoi,aapher, 
 b'annes de A/urara, Joao dc Barros, Castatdieda the 
 hi-lorian, and Quevedo, Jeronymo Corte Real, and de 
 Menczes, the epic ])oets of the kingdom. This consti- 
 tutes the personnel of Portuguese authorship, and this 
 led to a walk through the libraries. The small collec- 
 tion of old volumes taken from the Jesuits and lodged 
 in the Ajnda, the well-arraiv^ed collection of religious 
 works in the Convento de Jesus, and the librar>' of the 
 Aeademv of Sciences are soon examined by the expert 
 explorer. The National Lii)rary, however, demands 
 more attention. Here are gathered nearly three hun- 
 dred thousand vobnnes. derived mainly from the 
 libraries of sui)pressed monasteries, and constituting 
 but a small jKirl of the spoils tnken from those literary 
 tn asnri'-hons( s. The library is well arrange<I in com- 
 m<i<lions rooms -tlie jjubbe documents of the rnilcd 
 
 :Jf3
 
 254 A VMAR IN i'nKTlGAL. 
 
 vSlatcs liart'ly receiving that aUcntion atul care to which 
 Clieslcr Ihouglit tlietJi entitled. Tlic Jiianuscripts are 
 rare and l>eautiful — a large collection numbering fully 
 ten thousand, and including three hundred of the Cis- 
 tercian order from the Convent of Alcoba^a, one of 
 wliich is the first volume of a Bible taken from the 
 S])aniards at the battle of Aljubarrota in 13S5, and said 
 to have belonged to the King of Castile, whose arms 
 it Inars. Of the vlUim maiuiscripts are: the Old 
 Testament in Hebrew with Rabbinic annotations, 
 T,alin 15ibks, a llnne Healifiea.- Mariie of the fif- 
 teenlli c-eiitnry. a l'"onis Judic nin of the foiuleenlh 
 century, several illuminated missals, St. Ambrose's 
 Onk'inorum libri tres, Koma Triumphans of I'lavius 
 lilondus I'orliensis. — lo which, with their three 
 Innidred fellows, a separate room is dedicated, on every 
 side of which the veni-rable and ghostly volumes stand 
 in all the charms of vellum and anlicpiity. 
 
 There is j)robably no rarer collection of monkish 
 literature in the worhl. The lil)rary also contains a 
 valuable collection of Ivnglish works on Portugal. 
 
 The Cabinet of Coins is large and interesting, being 
 aljout twentN-fi\e thousand in number, and includin<r 
 coins of Spain, Celtiberia, ancient Greece, Macedonia, 
 Syr'a, and ]^gy])t. Rome from Julius Cicsar to Com- 
 niodus. and medals and coinage of Portugal, France, 
 Italy, Germany, iCngland, and Russia. Arranged with 
 them are Roman bronze statues, lamps, amphonc, lach- 
 rymatory vases, and African implements and weapons. 
 To the student and arch;e')logist the library is most in- 
 teresting. Chester wandcri <1 tlimu;;!! its alcoves many 
 da)'s, onl\' repining over the abseiu-e of a catalogue, to 
 which he thinkseverv good collection of books entitled.
 
 STROHTS. 255 
 
 It was towards the close of whiter and before the 
 spring rains had commenced that Chester came to 
 Lisbon, and the clear, cool, and lengthening days gave 
 him ample opportunity to stroll through the streets, 
 whoso hills, bad as they are, were not enough to dis- 
 courage such an experienced pedestrian, who had 
 already e.\i)li)ri.d on foot every mountain region in 
 Ivurope and many of the most famous in America. He 
 was told to visit the A\eni(la -tlie widest and hand- 
 somest street in IJsbon.— but he found it unfinished 
 and lined on either hand with dwelHngs of somewhat 
 ordinary structure, not imposing enough, at any rate, 
 to stand along a great fashionable highway. He was 
 struck, however, with the narrowness (jf the streets 
 and the length of their names, among which he found 
 the Rua da I'ort.i do Carro do Hospital Real de »S. Jose, 
 Travessa do Abarraeamento da Cruz do Taboado, T'ua 
 de vSanto Antonio da Praya do Conventodo Corayao de 
 Jesus, It is encouraging to know, however, that in 
 ordinary intercourse these names are abandoned and 
 short ones substituted, of which there is no record either 
 on the corners of the streets (tr in the directory. Now 
 and then a charming garden or a well-arranged public 
 square relieves the weary eye. In fact, pretty gardens 
 abound in Lislxiu — the great charm of the residence of 
 Sir George Glynn Petre, the ICnglish Minister, being an 
 ample garden high along the river-bank, laid out by 
 Lord I^ytton during his administration as Ambassador 
 at this Coint. Put the squares are worthy of a great 
 cits' and a great ])eopI<'. The Praya do Commercio, on 
 accoinit of its material and historici! importance, is 
 entitled to the most alteiilioa. It lies .along tlie river, 
 and before the earth<iuake it was the Palace Yard ; but
 
 230 A Yr;AP IN I'ORTIKJAL. 
 
 the earthquake changed all that, the palace having 
 been swallowed np. It is now known among the 
 mariners who throng its hard and gravelly surface as 
 "Black Horse vScpiare," after an equestrian statue of 
 Doni Jose I., Which stands in the centre overlooking 
 the swelling tide. This statue, which some admirer 
 has said to be " unsurpassed by any other in Ivuropc," 
 is an object of great ruriosity. The horse is stout, 
 thick, (•hnnky, hfavy-barrcilrcl, and long-backed, with 
 an excess of crest and a heavy head, an immense quarter 
 with a huge tail clinging closely and meeting theground, 
 and so jnit together that as it appeared to Chester for 
 speed on tlie road he would be useless and for draught 
 incapable. The kin;; is loaded with garments, and 
 crowned with a hat wliich is a great cluster of ])lumes. 
 I'.y the side of the hcjrse on the lofty pedest.il stands a 
 cub elephant — called a cub to e.KCUse his being placed 
 there at all when his full si/.e would have dwarfed 
 even the hor.se Chester described. Victory and I'ame 
 flank the e(}uestrian statue, which stands twenty-one 
 feet high and weighs eit^hty thousand si.K hiuidred 
 and forty ])Ounds. On the front of the jjcdeslal is a 
 medallion with the efligy f)f Pombal, who restored 
 the city after the eartlKpiake and left a chasm in 
 Portuguese morals vastl)' more awful than that which 
 the great convulsion of nature left in the hills and 
 valleys of llu town. 
 
 (Jn each si<le of the square are long rows of arched 
 cloislejs within which are the pidjlicolhces of slate, and 
 at the head and on the north side of the square stands 
 the Aiiodfemo Augusto, a work wliich was more than 
 a century in construction. It is a triumphal arch, 
 with windows on one side and a clock on the other,
 
 SCULPTURE. 2S7 
 
 surmounted by an euornious pile a hundred feet high 
 from the crown of the arch to the top of the cornice. On 
 the face of this are the arms of Portugah The allegor- 
 ical group at the top of this huge entablature is Glory 
 rewarding Valor and Genius — Glory being a draped 
 female figure, Valor an Amazon partially covered with 
 an ancient Greek military dress, and Genius a nude 
 figure of a yonth with wings partially spread. Letters 
 and Arts are also represented, and the Lyre signifies 
 that Harmony should i)rcside over the products of 
 Intelligence. There is a great deal of this arch, hut it 
 must be confessed it forms a striking contrast with 
 those structures which stand about the Roman Forum 
 to commemorate the victories of Trajan and Antoninus, 
 and vSeptimius vSeverus, and Constantine and Titus. 
 
 The statues over the columns of this great arch are 
 of four national heroes and are due to the chisel of the 
 Portuguese .sculptor, Victor Hastos, who has executed 
 his work with great taste and skill, as he also has his 
 recumbent figures representing the rivers Tagus and 
 Douro ; and those of Ponibal, of whom I have 
 already expressed an opinion, of \'asco de ( lama, and of 
 Variatus, who exchanged the duties of a peaceful 
 pastor to those of a great warrior, and was only de- 
 feated by the betrayal and treachery of two of his 
 ambassadors — not ;in unusual e\ent in PortU);uesc 
 history, — and of Xuno Alvaiez Pereira. 
 
 Of the other s(|nares, the Kosio is distinguished for 
 its elaborate monument in memory of Dom Pedro IV. ; 
 the Largo de San Rocpie, near the church of that name, 
 containing a monument erected by Italians to com- 
 memorate the mnrriagc of Dom I^uis with Dona Maria 
 Pia, tlie daughter of Victor h'manuel ; the Largo de 
 "7
 
 255> A YEAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 Belcin, famous, as has been well said, "as having 
 bc'cii the sjK>t where the Duke of Aveiro, Marquis and 
 Marchioness of Tavora, Count Atoguia, along with 
 several other members of the Portuguese aristocracy, 
 were executed in the most ignominious and cruel man- 
 ner on the 13th of January, 1759, having been falsely 
 accused and found guilty of particijjation in the ])seud{)- 
 conspiracy against llie King's life ingeniously contrived 
 by the Martinis of ronibal,'' and ten or a dozen S(niares 
 of smalk-r i)r()])orlions and less iniixirtance. These 
 S(iu;ires, togcllK-r with the j)ublic walks and the garden 
 of the ICslrelhi, the ]',o'..'mical, and the Zo(>logieal (har- 
 den for whi< h the exI\n:i)eror Doni I'edro had a great 
 affection, and which contains one immense lion, many 
 monkeys, a huge dog kennel and an extensive poultry 
 yard, afford great pleasure and are very conducive to 
 the health of the people. 
 
 Of the palaces contained within the limits of Lis- 
 bon, even Chester's elaborate notes furni.sh no further 
 information than has already been given in accounts 
 of public ceremonies which have taken place within 
 the last year. Of the anuisements, the world knows 
 that the Opera of Lisbon ranks among the best 
 in I-'uropc. And fif the ])ieture galleries, the lovers 
 of art in Lislxm bear witness that, " although for- 
 eign artists are represented in the Nationrd (iallery 
 by the brilliant names of Michael Angelo, Caracci, 
 Carlo Dolei, Guido, Murillo, Ra])hael, and Rubens, 
 yet it must be confessed that the works are inferior 
 specimens and n(jt to be compared with the clufs 
 d'a-Hvre of these renowned artists." It does not ap- 
 pear that art students resort to the galleries of Lisbon, 
 In the nuiseums, however, the student will find admira-
 
 PALACES. aS9 
 
 ble collections for the study of niineralog>', the cr>'stals 
 and minerals of Portugal, and of Russia, Vesuvius, and 
 Brazil, together with large palcontological and zoologi- 
 cal collections. A collection of products of the colo- 
 nics in the rooms of tlie Geographical Society is well 
 worthy a careful examination. 
 
 lyisbon provides li]>erally for the education of her 
 ]>eo])le in polytechnic, medical, ])l»armaceutical, agri- 
 cultural, naval, literary, industrial, and commercial 
 iiistilulions, and a good system of common schools. 
 Of course lu)si)itals, law courts, and markets abound. 
 Cemeteries are of the usual number, including the 
 Val ^■^curo for animals. The arrangements for fuiier- 
 als are somewhat extraordinary. The coflins re- 
 semble huge trunks, having a convex lid fixed on 
 hinges and fitted with a lock and key. On reaching 
 the cemetery the lid is raised, a little (luicklime is 
 thrown on the face, after which the colTui is locked and 
 the key given to the chief mourner. The coaches in 
 which the priests accompany the corft'i^'-c are called der- 
 li)tdas, and are interesting specimens of the Portuguese 
 vehicles of the last century. They are on two wheels, 
 and have a large gilded chaise top body for the acconnno- 
 dation of the priests, while the cofiin is borne on an iron, 
 frame fixed across the shafts mar the whifiletree. 
 Chester endeavored in vain to gel a pliotograj)h of 
 one of these establishments, no artist being found who 
 was inclined to take one. 
 
 Chester l)ecame nuich interested in the coaches. 
 The universal ronpc and Victoria and Landau can be 
 foiuid in all the streets and stables, with a few dog- 
 carts and I)each-wagons ; bvit no light wagons, no 
 buggies, no top-wagons .so called in New York. Light
 
 260 A VHAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 drivitipf is unknown. The American trotting horse is 
 not found, and of course the American trotting wagon 
 is never seen. 
 
 I'ul of one cla>s of coaclies Ijsl)on appears to have fi 
 monopoly. The royal coaclies are to I)e seen in the 
 coach house near the palace of I'elem. This collection 
 comprises many curious specimens of the coach build- 
 er's art, e>pecially during the reign of Dom John V., 
 who was extravagantly fond of ostentatious displays. 
 On the occasion of the marriage of his son. Prince of 
 the Brazils, with an Infanta of vSj^ain, the royal family 
 went in pi'ocession from Ivlvas to the frontier to meet 
 tlie Spanish Coint. This coiici^c consisted of 49 royal 
 Coaches drawn hy .^54 l:<jrses, 150 royal carriages drawn 
 by 468 horses and mules, 673 saddle-horses with velvet 
 saddle-cloths embroidered with gold, and 316 mules, 
 besides an immeuNe number of carriages and horses be- 
 longing to the retinues of the nobles and other persons 
 who accompanied their majesties. 
 
 The num))er of coaches ])ossessed by the Crown has 
 been greatl)' reduc<-d ; the earthqu.ake of 17,1^5 fieslroyed 
 many ; upwards of fifty were taken t<j the IJra/.ils by 
 the royal family, and many in a dilapidated (•(;nditioti 
 were sohl during the reign of Dona Maria II. Never- 
 theless thirty-nine still femain in the roj'al court house. 
 Amongst this inunber the most notable are : — 
 
 A coach brcnight by f,)ueen Maria Inancisca from 
 I'VruKe, a ])resent from Louis XI^^, richly carved and 
 gilded, with a painting on the back representing her 
 Majesty seated on the throne — a very good jKirtrait. 
 
 Three chariots which served at the marriage of Dom 
 John \'. with Dona Maria Ainia of Austria in 1708, 
 Also one presented to King John V. by his Holiness
 
 COACHES. 26t 
 
 Clement XI., and one presented to Dona Maria Anna 
 of Austria by the liinperor Francis Joseph I. 
 
 Three coaches used at the marriage of the Pritice of 
 the IJra/.ils, son of Kin^ John V. %vith the Ijifanta of 
 Spain, Doinia Mariauna Victoria. 
 
 An inunense unwieldy, cuinbersonie octagonal trav- 
 elling carriage with a table in the centre used by Dom 
 John V. 
 
 Several coaches brought by the Philips from Spain, 
 and .some of which belonged to John IV., AfTonso VI., 
 and Pedro II. 
 
 Two modern travelling carriages made in ICngland 
 for (^ueen Maria I. 
 
 These state coaches appeared on all royal occasions, 
 and with a young king and a pretty queen, sitting in 
 their amplitude of gilt and satin, present a most gor- 
 geous ap{)earauce. 
 
 Chester had been .so entirely occupied with the 
 material condition of Portugal and its varying for- 
 tunes that he had forgotteii the value of intellectual 
 culture and power in the work of creating and i)re- 
 serving a n.ation. He liad seen so many monument.s 
 erected in memory of kings and warriors and e.\j)lorers, 
 so many churches built in commemoration of great 
 deeds of cluucli and state, in honor of saints and 
 martyrs, in gratitude to (iod for victories and con- 
 quests and heirs to the throne, that he for;.;ot the 
 mental achievements which arc llie boast of every 
 people truly great. lie could not lose sight of Camoens 
 — U)Y his motunnent overtoi)ped the city. He had not 
 forgotten tlie theological disquisitions of Anthony and 
 Bartholomew and Pedro Negles and Andr6 d'Almada, 
 and Guzman and Hernardes ; or the oratory of X'ieira
 
 262 A VHAK IN PCRTUGAL. 
 
 and Timothco dc Ccabra ; or Uic poetry of dc Mello and 
 Antotiio I'crreira and IJocaiL^c and Manoc-1 dc San Jose ; 
 or the historical works of Vcigas and Tclleo and Ber- 
 nardino dc Silva and I)iej;o <le Conto. ]5nt tlic tlicol- 
 ogy was rather ont of date, the orators were not fitted to 
 the present occasion, the histories were so niucli of the 
 past that those cnga<;cd in the affairs of the present 
 sckloni alhided to them. Tiic restoration of Portngal 
 means not the revival of letters, or the application of 
 profound systems of state and society, or the culti- 
 vation of an old philosophy, or the perfection of a long 
 sought system of govennnent, or devotion to a great 
 popular declaration, but a return to the golden days 
 when the fabulous we.dth of Ornui/. and the Ind was 
 poured into the coffers of the extravagant and the ambi- 
 tious. In such a struggle aesthetic books were of small 
 importance ; theories were a delusion and a snare ; 
 science was quite unnecessary ; and popular education 
 and technology fidfd all the requirements. In a coni- 
 nnmity like this b<>ok-worms arc not abundant, philo- 
 sophical societies are . not common, transcendental 
 discussions are rare, lyceum lectures have no attrac- 
 tions, Browning clubs do not fl<niri>h, the inventive 
 genius is luiheard of, the . poet does not soar, the 
 j)o])ular (jrator is seldom heard. The genius of the 
 fathers did not run in this <lir<,;ction, 
 
 Chester seemed to be evolving these thoughts as he 
 sat before my fire at the spacious Ikagan/a after a long 
 day of c.xi)loration, during which the hills seemed to 
 be interminable ami the valleys vuifathomable. lie 
 was getting into a gloomy view and he was evidently 
 attempting to find in Portugal a Magna Charta and 
 a Cromwell, or a Winkclried and a William Tell and a
 
 POLITICS. 263 
 
 Morgartcn, or a club of Eiicyclopcedists and Girondists, 
 or a Mazzini and a Garibaldi, or a Washington and 
 a Jefferson, as if all these were necessary for national 
 glory and strength. 
 
 " Now," said I, " you need have no fear of Portugal. 
 She has her ancient renown and power and has just as 
 good a right to travel her own road to distinction as 
 her neighbors and contemporaries have to travel theirs. 
 She once reached a great height and has had but a few 
 years of peaceful endeavor since her tide turned. And 
 it is evident she has now turned her attention towards 
 industrial development and the application of her ener- 
 gies to her vast outlying colonial territories. When 
 the- Minister for Foreign Affairs aiuiounced not long 
 ago that the future of Portugal lay largely in her 
 African possessions, he undoubtedly pointed the path 
 his nation proposed to travel. Portugal is a most 
 interesting study — only study her just as she is." 
 
 Into this study the politics of Portugal naturally 
 enters, and of tliis chai)ter the dozen sacks and sieges 
 of Lisbon, and the public and private nuirdcrs of kings 
 and (pieeiis and councillors inmimerable, which mark 
 the last thousand years of her existence form no part 
 whatever. Under the ancient rri^iinc, notwithstanding 
 the constantly recurring civil commotions, the Por- 
 tuguese had been undoubtedly a united and happy 
 people, who, while they differed materially on ques- 
 tions of supremacy, had no occasion for political divi- 
 .sions or discussions. With the French armies, however, 
 came I'Vcnch philosopliy and iiolitics. The people, who 
 were not to be subdued by the armies of Napoleon, and 
 whose autonomy was considered an important integral 
 part of the imperial power of ICurope, yielded to tliQ
 
 2r,t A YI;aR in i'ORTUGAL 
 
 inf)rc* insidious inflncucc of ix)]nilar assertion and claims 
 f<jr popular right. Political clamor and political pun- 
 ishments commenced. The first attempt to establish a 
 constitutional government failed and its leaders were 
 brought to the scaflold. When in 1S20 the Constitu- 
 tion was proclaimed in Lisbon and Oporto, a citizen 
 monarchy connnenced and ]K)litical agitations were 
 organized. In the Nova I^'i Fundamental were em- 
 bodied changes in the laws and institutions of the 
 country — the so\creignty was declared to reside essen- 
 tially in the i)eople and the title of Majesty was given 
 to the Cortes. In 1.S07 tlie royal family had left 
 Portugal and taken up its residence in Brazil, a 
 regency governing in Lisbon in the name of the 
 Queen Dona Maria I. At her death in 1816 her 
 son, Doni John \'L, became Kingbut continued to reside 
 in Rio. Meanwhile liberal ideas ])egan to take ro(jt in 
 I'ortugal, and agitations increased rapidly. An at- 
 tempt on tlie j>art of JCngland to restore the royal 
 family filled. Secret political societies were organized 
 in ()]K)rto and elsewhere, \ Jim la presided over by 
 Silveira Pinto dc Ponseca, whose protestations of 
 fidelity to the Cn^wn and the reigning fauiily of Bra- 
 ganza, had great influence in leading the people to 
 acquiesce in the proposed change of government. An 
 ineffectual proclamation drawn up by the Count de 
 Palmella and signed by the Cardinal Patriarch, the 
 Marcpiis de P>orba, Count de Pcniche, Count de Feria, 
 and by vSenhor A. Gomes Ribeiro was issued ; but the 
 Cortes met in vain, Lisbon followed the exam])le of 
 Oporto, the "junta Provhioial do Govrrno Supremo^' 
 w.'is formed and the regency was dismissed. The peo- 
 j)le were at once called upon to take the oath o£
 
 POLITICS. 265 
 
 allegiance. The junta issued orders that deputies for 
 all the provinces should be elected to form a represen- 
 tative chamber ; on January 24, 1821, a Cortes assem- 
 bled in Lislxni. The Provisional junta resi.^ncd its 
 powers ; and on the 3d of the following July the King, 
 Dom John, arrived from Rio with four thousand fol- 
 lowers, including his family, the Corps Diplomatique, 
 the ministers, the court deputies for the colonies, and a 
 numerous suite. The King prt)cceded at once to the 
 House of Deputies where he took an oath of allegiance 
 to the new Constitution " so far as it was already pre- 
 pared." On the ist of October following, the King 
 took the required oath under a completed Consti- 
 tution ; one hundred and forty 'epulies signed their 
 adherence to the Constitution, and on the 4th the 
 chamber was prorogued. The royal consort, Dona Car- 
 lota, refused to take th.e oath, and by a royal decree 
 was ordered to retire from the Court and reside at the 
 Quinta de Ramalhao near Cintra. 
 
 This C(mslilulion was short-lived. It was opposed 
 to the general opinion of F.urope. A single chamber 
 elected by tlie people was empowered to nominate a 
 State Council of thirteen members, whose term of oflke 
 was to be but four years. The Crown was silent and 
 powerless in the presence of the Legislature. The 
 sovereign was obliged to yield to every whim of the 
 assembly — and to unjust and fatal laws he could only 
 oppose a temporary opposition. Tliis "Congress" 
 conunenced issuing theoretical principles, and entan- 
 gled itself in questions of secondary importance; and 
 the Constitution was "reduced to a collection of the- 
 oretical maxims." It is said that during the last 
 nioulhs of its existence tliere were connnitted more
 
 2C>C) A VI;AK in I'OFUnCAL. 
 
 scandals, more injustice, and more illegalities, if possi- 
 ble, than during the days of absolutism. The estab- 
 lishment of this Constitution of 1822 ^vas so strongly 
 opposed by Russia, Austria, and Prussia, that they 
 recalled their ministers from the court of Dom John. 
 
 Prior to this time there had been Cortes in Portugal 
 a})parently as ^vise and independent as any ever assem- 
 bled in Kurope. This was the case in 1352 ; and in 
 1697 ^ niceting of the Cortes is recorded, consisting of 
 members of the three estates of tlie realm : the clergy, 
 the nobility, and the people. 
 
 It is easy to imagine that violent opposition to the 
 
 Constitution and the Cortes should have arisen. In 
 
 I'el)ruary, 1S23, the Count dc Aniarante issued a pr(.)c- 
 
 lamatiou at \"\\\^ Real de Tras-os-Montes, in which he 
 
 declared that he rose ' to deliver the country from the 
 
 yoke of the Cor4.es and the revolutionary pest, and to 
 
 give the King his liberty ;" a iK-rformaucc for which 
 
 he was deprived by the King of his titles and honors, 
 
 and was forced to take refuge in Spain with his troops. 
 
 Whether the King was in earnest or not in his action 
 
 is not known — but it is known that not long after the 
 
 condenniatioii of Count dc Amarante, the King's own 
 
 son, Dom Miguel, commenced his operations which 
 
 threw tl:e countr}- into a long and cruel civil war. 
 
 Dom Miguel made his first decree at \'illa Franca on 
 
 the 27th of May, 1S23, and was there joined by a large 
 
 body of troojis. The movement in \'illa l-Vanca was 
 
 seconded in Lisbon, when a regiment of infantry 
 
 marched to the i)alace and shouted, 'T'/jy? d Kci. ylb- 
 
 soliito ! Mona a Consiilitiras ;'' to which the King 
 
 re])lied. "Since you wish it, since the country desires 
 
 it, ' / 'ii'a (I l\ii ylbsolu/o! ' " and ere long issue<l a prog-
 
 roLiTir^. 267 
 
 lamation dcclariiig that the Constitution was illegal 
 and incompatible with good govenuncnt. Dotn 
 Miguel was meanwhile appointed commander-in-chief 
 of the army. Queen Carlota plotted a complete reac- 
 tion in favor of absolutism. The King, D(mi John, 
 returned to the capital and formed a new ministry, and 
 a counter-revolution was commenced, having its origin 
 in the Court. 
 
 Revolutions are always attended with great confu- 
 sion. In this affair in Portugal it seems as if " con- 
 fusion were worse confounded." The King had his 
 jdans — the Queen h;id hers — Dom Miguel had his. 
 I'lots for the King's dethronement were charged upon 
 the Queen and her .son. The King sought safety on 
 boaril H. B. M. ship-of-war. the Windsor Cintli\ froni 
 which he issued a proclamation promising public 
 .security to the Portuguese ; denouncing the "sinister 
 inspirations" by which his son, Dom Miguel, was led ; 
 withdrawing from him the authority which per\'erse 
 intrigues had led him to abuse ; and commanding all 
 to preserve strict obedience to the authority of his royal 
 name. Upon this Dom Miguel embarked for Brest, 
 and the King returned amidst great rejoicings. All 
 this happened in iS:?4. 
 
 On the loth of March, 1826, Donv John VI. died, 
 having on the 6th signed a decrexi appointing his 
 daughter, the Infanta Dona Isabel Maria, regent, in 
 the absence of his eldest sim, Dom Pedro, the lawful 
 heir to the throne of Portui;al, an arrangement quite 
 unsatisfactory to tlie i)retender, Dom Miguel. He, in- 
 deed, declared his approbation until, as he expressed 
 himself, " the intenli(.ns of the legitimate heir and suc- 
 cessor to it, who is our much beloved brother and lord,
 
 268 A YiiAK IN i'( iKTUGAI.. 
 
 llic ICmiK-Tor of lira/.il, shouM In- iikkIc ki'owti " ; and 
 he al-o ad'lrrsscd tlui Ivnipcror Dom Pedro, in which 
 he afknu\vU-'l;^(..-fl His Iiii]K'rial Majesty as his " lej^iti- 
 malc soverei;;ii and licir and succi-ssor to the Cnnvn of 
 onr ghirious ancestors." With tliese declaratitjns of 
 loyalty and fidelity, h')\ve\er, Doni Mij^uel was already 
 entertaining the idea of retnrnin^ to T,isbon from 
 V'ietina, lo which he had heen banished by his father. 
 The Spanish minister at Vienna stron;^ly adxised his 
 return to IJsb'»n. Intri.mies sprang uj) at once in his 
 bel)a'f. 'I'll'.- Kiiij^ of S]>ain was opposed to the retnin 
 ofDoni I'edro "on acroinit of his liberal ideas." At- 
 tempt' were made to anan^e a mairia^;e between I)om 
 .Mij-iid and I'linces-, Chri 4iaii of Napl<"S, .Slill the 
 virlnon-1 I)om .Miguel resisted, J)om I'edro confirmed 
 the authority of the re;^ency to ^(nern until the con- 
 stitutional charter which he had prepared for Portugal 
 should be ])njnuilg.ited — the charter of 1826 ; and hav- 
 ing effected this, he abdicated in favor of the next heir, 
 his daughter, Dona Maria da Gloria, on condition 
 that the charter .should be received and ratified in Por- 
 tugal, and that a marriage between the young Queen 
 and Dom Miguel should be contracted. 
 
 I)om Miguel had, hr>wever, fallen into other hands. 
 The Ivmpcror of Austria was oj)posed to the Charter. 
 Prince Metlernich slated tliat " the Senorita Infanta had 
 brought him a letter and pajK-rs which had been .sent 
 to his Highness for the purjKtse of convincing him of 
 his right to the throne aiid of the ntdlity of the oaths 
 they had obliged him to take." He fell into tlie hands 
 of the absolutists. Tlie hostile intentions of Kitig 
 I'erdinand toward Portugal c<jntinued, and the name 
 of Dom Miguel was constantly invoked in aid of these
 
 I'OLITIC^. 269 
 
 rebellious attempts. The Portuguese ambassador was 
 instructed to call on Great IJritain for that assistance 
 which was stipulated by treaty between the two coun- 
 tries. Accordinv^ly George IV. sent a message to the 
 two Houses of Parliament, calling on them to secure 
 from foreign hostility " the most ancient ally of Great 
 IJritain." 
 
 Five thousand British troops were in consecjuence 
 .sent to Lisbon under General Clinton. 
 
 Declaiations in favor (jf I)om Miguel were made at 
 ojite in many i)artsof the kingdom. In Ai)ril, 1H27, the 
 garrison of I'.lvas, on the frontier of Spain, united ilsf.-lf 
 with the i)oi)ulaee, and declared in favor of I)om .Miguel 
 as absolute King with <ries of " Death t<» the Constitu- 
 tion ! " The course of l)om Pedro was not easily 
 understood. On July 3, iX2y, he wrote to George IV. 
 that "the necessity of establishing order in Portugal 
 and of consolidating the constitutional system which 
 has there been sworn to compels me, as legitimate 
 sovereign, to send an order to the Infante Dom Miguel, 
 my brother and son-indaw, to proceed to govern that 
 kingdom in my nan)e and as my lieutenant." A signal 
 like this the Pretender was not reluctant to obey ; at 
 this call every obstructive element in the kingdom 
 rallied to his bainier. 
 
 On isth October, Mctternich. in conference with the 
 ICtiglish Ambassador and the Portuguese plenipotenti- 
 ary, agreed that Dom Miguel should accept the regency 
 and set out for Lisbon at once, giving assurance that on 
 his arrival he " finuly intends to support the charter." 
 Tlie Duke of Palmella urged the return of Dom Miguel 
 as a relief to the prevalent disorders of Portugal, and 
 fearing that unless this wai done changes and disturb-
 
 270 A YIAK IN I'OKTIUJAI,. 
 
 aiiccs would be in ,slor<j for iiKiny years to come. The 
 Spanish minister also urged his return. October 27, 
 1827, Dom Miguel wrote to his brother Dom Pedro 
 accepting the ai)p()intmeiit of regent of the kingdoms 
 (;f I'orlugal and the Algarves and their dei)endencies, 
 and declaring his intention to nuiintain the institutions 
 by which the Portuguese monarchy is governed. On 
 Octobe!' 30th he arrived in London, was entertained by 
 King (ieorge IV., visited the Duke of Wellington at 
 Slratlifi'ldsaye, and passed on to Lisbon, where his 
 adherents were already en>;aged in vi^uis for " 'I'lie holy 
 religion of our fathers ; Dom Mij'.nel, the absolute nion- 
 an h ; the august throne of ]'>ragauva ; the re-established 
 mt;narchy." On I'ebruary 22(1 Dom Miguel ariived in 
 Lisbon, and Dona .Maria, th.e regent, formally handed 
 over her powers to jiim. Meanwhile com])laints were 
 made by the Minister f(jr Foreign Affairs that democ- 
 racy had gained too much ]M)\ver in I'ortugal. The 
 regent commenced at once to resist and oppose all 
 revolutionary i)rinciijles ; dissolved the Chamber of 
 Deputies on the ground that many of its niembers had 
 made the famous protest against any alteration of the 
 Constitution of 1S22; called around himself a party 
 ready to proclaim him absolute King, and secured 
 a convocation of the " ancient Cortes of the kingdom" 
 in ]>lace of the Chambers of Parliament. Kngland 
 was disturbed ; Lord Dudley, then Secretary of State 
 for P^oreign Affairs, expressed to P.dmella the belief 
 lliat Dom Miguel entertained the firm intention of setting 
 aside the Charter, Portuguese funds began to fall ; the 
 Duke of Wellington feared .serious consequences froiu 
 the recent proceedings. Dom Pedro becaiue alanned ; 
 a protest to the Portuguese nation was issued in his
 
 POLITICS. 271 
 
 name and that of his daughter, Queen Dona Maria, 
 against the unjust and shameful usurpation of the 
 sovereign's riglils, A reign of persecution now com- 
 menced throughout Portugal. The Cortes signed 
 their adhesion to the usurper. The insincerity of Dom 
 Miguel became more and niore n^rmifest. Ilis ministers 
 established a reign of terror. Ten liberals were hanged 
 on one scaffold at Oporto on April 9, 1H29 ; thirteen 
 others of the same ])arty were sent to the coast of Africa, 
 and a long list of colonels, cajjtains, and judges were 
 exiUfl or i)nt to death. NoblenuM and oflicers were 
 boiuid with cords, (I lagged Ihroiigh the streets of 
 Opotlo, and ^t^angU■d on a lofly scaffold so tb.at their 
 punishments might be witnessed by the people ; their 
 heads were cut o(T, their bodies burned, and the ashes 
 thrown itito the sea, A formal attempt to secure from 
 the I'higlish government a recognition of Dona Maria 
 was met In' the declaration of I.ord Talmerston that 
 this would be impossible under the circumstances of 
 Dom Miguel's possession of the kingdom. The entry of 
 the Queen's forces into Oporto alone relieved that city ; 
 the prisons were opened ; the liangman was put to 
 death by the mob. The strife was transferred to L,is- 
 bon, where the struggle was fierce and bloody. In- 
 numerable were the atrocities committed by the parti- 
 sans of ab-olutism in many parts of the kingdom during 
 these years. In I",siremo/. alone, on the .'?7th of July, 
 1.S32, thirty-three [xilitical ])risoners were barbarously 
 assassinated in the prisons by a frantic populace incited 
 by the authorities and assisted by the military force 
 which was itself appointed to gu:u(l the safety of their 
 prisoners. Lisbon was besieged, and the destruction 
 of life and property was enormous. The forces of Dom
 
 272 A Y1:AI< in I'OKTICAL. 
 
 Miguel ^\■L■re at last dislijdgcd, Sir Charles Napier 
 annihilated his fleet, and he was oldiged to resign all 
 rlaims to tlie Crown. On Sepleni1)er 22, 1832, Dona 
 ^^ariu arrived in the Tagus and at onee took possession 
 of her tlirone. J'ut war and slaughter still went on. 
 l'*actions di\-ided the people ; and not until June, 
 1834, did Doin Miguel embark at Sines, the Itirthplace 
 of Vasco do Ciaina. for Oeuoa and for that exile from 
 Portugal which ultimately brought peace and an op- 
 portunity for improv.Muent to that unhappy kingchjin. 
 The day, however, bn^ke slowly. The assault on 
 Leiria f(;r its rescue, the battle at rernes, and the rout 
 of the MigueliteS were advancing steps in the onward 
 marih of the supporters of the Queen ; but it seemed as 
 if intrigues more disastrous than battle would never 
 end. It is said that a portion of the clergy, siijiporterscjf 
 Donv Miguel, sought every means of injining the cause 
 of the Queen. The campaign of 1834 was most active 
 and, as I have stated, most successfvd. The political 
 complications were nuxst interesting ami important. 
 The people were still dissatisfied. The government 
 was not ])opular. On more than one occasion the 
 Queen was insulted, and when on August 15, 1S34, ^^^^ 
 Chambers asscnd)led, Dom Pedro reviewed the history 
 of affairs from 1826 and asked for a decision of the 
 cpjestion whetlier he should or should not act as regent 
 diu'ing the minority f;f his daughter. Tliere was a 
 nuiltitude of councillors — not, however, of that kind 
 which secures safety. In the confusion I )om Pedro with- 
 drew from the regency ; the majority of Dona Maria II. 
 was proclaii'.ied by the Cortes, aiul she assumed the 
 reins of power and the duties of the wife of Charles 
 Kugcne Napoleon, Duke de Leuchtenberg, at the same
 
 POLITICS. 273 
 
 time. The reign continued, but the death of the Duke 
 broke up the family. Still Doin Miguel threatened from 
 his retirement. Disturbances broke out in the colonies. 
 The finances were in disorder. Part}- hate led to fre- 
 quent assassinations. The national guard was disor- 
 };ani7,ed. Dishonest subordinates had to be dismissed. 
 The ministry was frc(itiently dissolved. And a new 
 era was inaugurated on Jamiary i, 1S36, Ijy the mar- 
 riage of the Queen with Prince Ferdinand of vSaxe-Co- 
 burg, who was made Marshal-General of the kingdom. 
 Questions still arose with regard to the ministerial 
 power. The struggle continued between the support- 
 ers of the Constitution of 1S22 and the Charter of 1S26 
 — the former iK-ing covnited against the monarchical 
 power and the latter in its fi\or. The Constitution 
 was based on what were calleil " the rights of man " ; 
 the Charter of 1826 was prepared on the plan and 
 principles of the British Constitution. The Constitu- 
 tion nullified the sovereign's right of veto — the Charter 
 made the right of veto absolute. The Constitution 
 conferred all the prerogatives of royalty on the Council 
 — the Charter provided for life members of the Council 
 named by the Crown. And now peace being restored, 
 the Cortes met for the purpose of forming a new con- 
 stitution—the new Constitution of 1X38, which pro- 
 vided for a .Senate and a House of Deputies, the ])rin- 
 ciples of the Charter still remaining .so far as the 
 iCxecvitive was concerned. This Constitution met the 
 usual fate, and in 1S45 it was set aside and the Charter 
 of 1826 was rest')red. The acts of the Assembly 
 organizing a magistracy, regulating the taxes atid tlie 
 department of health created a fresh disturbance, and 
 the formation of a new ministry resulted in riots and
 
 274 A YEAR IN I'ORTUGAL. 
 
 martial law in the streets of Lisbon. Again securities 
 fell, and the prospect was gloomy. Now and then a 
 h'u\i shout was heard for Doni Miguel. In the midst 
 of the confusion, on the 15th of November, 1.S53. the 
 Queen Dona Maria II. died suddenly, leaving the King 
 Consort regent during the minority of his eldest son, 
 Dom Pedro V., born on September 16, 1S37. 
 
 The story of the deatli of this young King and his 
 charming Queen, Ivstaphania is familiar to all readers 
 of history, and his graceful example, his luipretending 
 desire for good government, his domestic fidelity, form 
 a picture between the disturbed condition of Portugal, 
 to which I have hastily crdled attention, and the 
 ])resent, whicli gives additional charm to the comjiara- 
 ti\'e peace and prosperity wlii'/h have followed. The 
 accession of Dom Luis to the thn^nc was attended by a 
 most characteristic Portuguese tragedy. Without warn- 
 ing the royal family had been swept away by an unac- 
 countable disease, ])r(;lher after brother had succumljed, 
 the Palaee of Necessidades liad been turned into a tomb, 
 and the heir to the throne had been preserved l)y the 
 accident of at'Sence from Lisbc^n in the naval service of 
 his country. Dom Luis on cf)ming to the thrfmc left 
 behind him the strange story I have related. At the 
 close of his reiv^n he receiverl the y\nieii(aii Minister in 
 Cintra, where he gave him an andienc c-, in the Royal 
 I'alace there, broken in health and soon to ]»ass away. 
 During his rjign he had ])erfected many of those meas- 
 ures of reform whicli are bringing Portugal into the 
 fnMit rank of nations as a constitutional monarchy. 
 The well-defined j)ower of the King is everywhere rec- 
 ognized. The jjcople arc determined for the rights of 
 their country. The cause of education is encouraged.
 
 POLITICS. 475 
 
 The dignity of the government is presen'ed. And 
 Dom Carlos I. has only to manifest a deep interest in 
 the welfare of his people to secure all that loyalty and 
 devotion which are their peculiar characteristics. That 
 the generally diffused prosperity of Portugal is on the 
 increase there is stro.ig belief. The energy which 
 for so many centuries placed her in the foremost rank 
 of nations, and which enabled her to assert and defend 
 constitutional right against the intrigues of the mo.st 
 adroit and powerful legitimists in Ivnrope, will undoubt- 
 edly develop her resources and confirm and strengthen 
 her power. 
 
 April 2oth. — It is more than half a century sitice the 
 political events I so hastily reviewed to Chester oc- 
 curred, and during all that period Portugal has been 
 steadily and gradually .settling into a normal condition. 
 The Sturm did not retire at once — but flashes were oc- 
 casionally seen in the horizon, and a far-off subdued 
 roar of thunder was heard as the clouds passed away. 
 iM-om his retirement Dom Miguel took occasional o1)ser- 
 vations, and now and then an uprising in his behalf 
 was threatened. The marriage of the Queen, however, 
 iu' 1.S36, to Dom rVrnando, introduced an element of 
 strength into the rouTitry and secured most valuable 
 alliances, the effect of which continiies to this day. 
 Tlie charter of 1.S26 was restored in i.H.}^. And on the 
 death of the Queen, which occurred in November, 1.S51, 
 Dom hV-rnando became regent, in which position he 
 contiiuied initil 1855, when his son, Dom Pedro V., be- 
 came of a.i;e and assumed tlie reins of govenimcnt — a 
 young King of mo-^t engaging manners, great sincerity, 
 umisual wisdom, who. with his young Queen, Ksta- 
 I)hania, tiled after a slu)rt reign, as I ha\e .said, in
 
 276 A YEAR IN rORTl'GAL. 
 
 1.851. Dom Luis, his sucxcssor, has but recently passed 
 away. 
 
 This liasly and imperfect sketch of the last great po- 
 litical stniggle in Portugal I gave Chester as an illustra- 
 tion of the trials which surround a people whose history 
 and traditions arc not in accord with the object for 
 which they strive. Portugal was not passing from 
 monarchy to republicanism, as many of her peoplc 
 hoped, but from ("iie form of monarchy to another. It 
 cannot l^e said tliat p','pular government had any inter- 
 est whatever in the strife. The extreme absolutism o' 
 luiropc encouraged in her a reactionar>' mcjvement, not 
 on account of immediate alarm, but out of a fear th.it 
 perhaps a growing desire for self-government in Brazil, 
 with which her relations were most intimate, might 
 gather strt.'Ugth enough to revolutioni/.e her own .n- 
 stitutions. ICngland liad assisted Portugal in defeating 
 the annies of Napoleon, but Ivngland had no desire to 
 see imperialism overthrown in the rescued countiy. 
 Austria was alert for monarchical power in all Ivurope. 
 And so the strugij;le went on. The ])(nver of the mon- 
 archy was confiniied. The most easily fitting ct^ns.i- 
 tutioii was secured, Tiie alliance of Porln^'al witli llie 
 great monarchical junvers of I'.uroix: was strengtlienel. 
 And she sailed 'ner the stormiest sea t(; float at last 
 iulo a 1) irl/f^r v.liere she finds ojtportunily for all those 
 fa<-uUies wliich her varying fortinies and her trie. Is 
 have developed. 
 
 " I'wrlugal has a ])eculiar charm for me," said Chester, 
 ''that charm which always goes with a veil. I have 
 tried to read vSouthey's unfinished history, antl Beck- 
 ford's rhapsodies, and Miss Pardoe's sketches, and 
 Murray's old (piarto, and have read Portugal old ai.d
 
 I^OLITICS. 277 
 
 new, but I always wanted a friendly introduction. 
 You know the old mysterious kingdom, which when 
 Napoleon had succeeded in ruling' and closing every 
 port from Trieste to St. Petersburg on the Ivuropean 
 continental coast, stood out against him, patted on the 
 back by I-'ngland, and exchanging nods with the 
 defiant young republic of the vStars and Stripes. I 
 like the picture." 
 
 " You arc affectionate," said I, " now, when you say 
 anything about Portugal tell about the busy Portu- 
 guese in America, what industrious citizens they are. 
 Tell about the charming little gardens of Lisbon, Tell 
 about the great camellia trees in Cintra, beneath which 
 at tliis season the ground is thickly strewn with the 
 fallen flowers, and tell Blackniore that he is mistaken 
 when he says in * Kit and Kitty ' that ' if you send for 
 camellias to Portugal you see a great clumsy stickout 
 at the heel of the graft and the bark grinning open all 
 along,' but that for camellias and roses and geraniums, 
 Cintra can match the world. Tell about the good 
 things in P(»rtugal, as you d(; al)out those in Ivngland 
 and I'rance and Italy, and advise your friends to come 
 and see." ' 
 
 "The rest you know well," .said I to Chester, who 
 seemed desirous (jf prolonging the description. For 
 the j^rovisions of the i)re>ent Constitution, to which lie 
 was willing at last to turn, I refe.'-ed him to a letter I 
 wrote some months ago to my exctllent American 
 C(;rrespondent, to wh(/m I have also given aecoinit of 
 the ro\al funerals, coronation, and ehii^teiiing, and tlie 
 political movements wliich have occurred since Doni 
 Carlos ascended tlie throne. In the excitement attend- 
 ing the occupation 1>>- I'.ngland of territoiy in Ivast
 
 27?? A YIAI' IN' l-riKTIKIAL. 
 
 Alriai claimed aiul occupiiMl by Porttigal on the ground 
 of original discovery, the government here has con- 
 ducted itself in a firm and dignified jnanncr, protesting 
 against tlie crown of Great Britain and counselling 
 moderation among the exasperated jieople. Quietly 
 one lnini^tl■y li.is retired and another ]i:is been called 
 together by the King. A Corte:; has been dissolved and 
 a new one elected without opposition, bev-ond a suc- 
 cessful coaliti(.in of jjnjgressisls, republicrins, and Afri- 
 cans ill Lisbon, I'aiergelic stejis have been taken by 
 the Government fi>r an increase of the army and navy. 
 A disposition has been manifested to enlarge the com- 
 mercial relations of the kingdom, which have been 
 somewhat confined to a single channel. At the opening 
 of the Cortes, on the i^th of April, the King delivered 
 an address marked by souud ju'lgmeut, a spirit of con- 
 ciliation, and an earnest desire (nr the j^iosinrity and 
 honor of the country. Of the mode <;f conducting 
 business in the Cortes I can say but little. 'I'he only 
 important assembling (jf this body that I have seen 
 was that convened to hear from »Senhor ]>arn<s Gomes 
 his account of the difhculty between Portugal and the 
 baiglish Government, and I nv:is struck with the 
 C(nirtesy and good order of the audience. And now, 
 Chester, what more have you to say about Lisbon ? " 
 
 " O, Lisbon has been entertaining," said he. " The 
 populace ar* orderly and respectful. They take ofl' 
 their liats when they meet and ])art, and they shake 
 hands frequently. They are well dressed and ride on 
 most excellent saddle-horses with a firm and graceful 
 .seat. The streets are rem.irkably free from drunkards 
 and brawlers. A jiet lamb is the f ivorite atti-n<lant of 
 the common people. The teamsters drive fine, well-
 
 CUSTOMS. 279 
 
 trained oxen, always on the off side. Newspapers 
 abound and are universally read. The problem of the 
 hack-drivers I luive been unable to solve ; there is no 
 l)rice fixed except an exorbitant one, and the threats 
 of the i)')lice are willunit effect. The most picturcscpic 
 person I have seen \v;.s a .(,''//A;c<^ K'''^ with a red turban 
 on her head, a red sash around her waist, enormous 
 golden rings in her cars, a short striped shirt, a blue 
 anderinison waist, and feet and ankles of the nattiral 
 C( lor. >She was riding on the front seat of a horse- 
 car. JSIie was one of the fi>h wonun at kisure, one 
 of the I 'ariuiJs, a^ they are called, and <jne of a class 
 of curious, industrious, interc. ling jv^oplc, engaged in 
 fishing and .'-elling th.eir fares on the streets. The 
 husbands, brothers, and fathers live on the .sea like the 
 Swainp>cot fi->hernien and reap the same ample reward 
 firtluir l;i!)or. 'I'he female side of the f imily do the 
 traflic — little girls of eight or ten years old and woiuen 
 of fifty and o\er. Their street-cry is most ])iercing. 
 The bawling of the nnde-drivers and teamsters is 
 feeble when compareil with th.it startling strain with 
 which the women and girls cry '•/V/.icy." as they 
 UJarch steadily and rapidly through the streets; and 
 woe be to him v.ho iti^ults or chafls one of these strong 
 and sturdy females, who can walk all day with untir- 
 ing vig'ir, and .strike a blow in self-defence which 
 would astonish John L. Sullivan, of IJoston. 
 
 " These people and tlte sellers of lottery-tickets make 
 up the most lively and demonstrative ])art of street- 
 trade in I^isbfju. The lottery is an established institu- 
 tion now, rnid it has always been, in spite of obstacles. 
 The rortugiiese will take the chance when they Cau 
 get it. When in 1^7,1, the lottery w.vs abulishe<l, good
 
 2S0 A YtAK IN POI-TIJGAL 
 
 ]K'Oj)le rejoiced, hul the masses objected so strongly 
 tli.'it for llic bejiefil of the great charity of tlie Miseri- 
 ctjnlia it was restore<l, and now the charity and the 
 goveriiiiieiit which taxes it get tile reward — -char- 
 ity getting 12 percent, of tlie anunuit drawn, and the 
 state getting 15 i)er cent., the hitter amoiuiting to 
 i54,(x>D francs ainuially. 
 
 " Tlie nol)ility are nnnierous in Porlngal in i)r();K)rtion 
 to the ])oi)nIation. Their jxiwer, wliieh was Ijnjken by 
 Ponibal, was, after his deatli, restored by a liberal 
 suijply of newly elevated persons of wealth or acconi- 
 plislnnents or favoritism, who devoted themsel\-es to 
 tlie patronage of the government. In this industry 
 they were quite successful. Among all classes, how- 
 ever, admirable characteristics are found which really 
 indicate the nature of the ])eopIe. They have great 
 courage, self-possession, patience, chev:rfuliiess, and 
 affection. They are seldom in a hurry, and .society 
 moves on with great tran(iuillity. They are polite; and 
 obliging, strong in their luxes an<l in tlieir hales; and 
 find in their families and in the sc^'ial atmosphere of 
 Lisbon, when; few strangers gather, :dl the society 
 they need. At the tiieatre and the opera the audi- 
 ence is (piiet and ■ undemonstrative, though easily 
 roused. Holidays abound and are strictly observed. 
 The private eipiipages are good, and together with all 
 other carriages, are driven with great speed, 1 have 
 never seen a horse stumble even on the most precipi- 
 tous hills. I have never seen such furious driving, up 
 hill and down, and I think I lia\e never seen so many 
 unsound horses at work in the streets And now, what 
 city would you advise me to visit next? ' 
 
 *' If you have never seen Seville," said I, " go there.
 
 Customs. 281 
 
 There is no town like it. Oriental, bright, commercial, 
 with a hcaiiliful river, with jioelic traditions, with the 
 nol)lest and in<nirnrullcst callu'lral in the world, with 
 apicture.scjue hotel, with delicious art, with vivacity and 
 energy, with fine avenues, beautiful gardens, a charm- 
 ing surrounding country, and a most romantic histor>', 
 — go to Seville and then return to America." 
 
 The next day Chester departed on a new exploration, 
 and in search of a new interview. Whither he went I 
 know not, but I do know that he carried with him a 
 keen interest in the ancient little kingdom, and a sin- 
 cere desire that her " days may be long in the laud."
 
 CHAPT1:R XV. 
 
 I.ISBON.-IU^STON. 
 
 yuftc /. iSqo. — My mission to Portugal lias come to 
 an end, and I sail to-day in the steamer Lanfraiic for 
 Liveqxxjl and tlience for Boston, \vlierc I can land in 
 the neighborlujod of my own home. To bid farewell to 
 Portugal seems to be a very simple matter, but when I 
 recall the events of my diplomatic career, and the 
 scenes and associations I have enjcn'ed, I realize that I 
 have had an experience in which my official services 
 have had b}' no means the most important part. It is 
 not easy for a traveller to forget the beauties of Portu- 
 gal, the channing river, the scenery of Cinlra, the 
 anti<iuity of I,isbon, the lonely and mysterious silence 
 of Mafra. the giaudeur and beauty of Alcoba(;a, the 
 luxuriance of the north and the sandy wastes of the 
 south, the languitl industry of the jKople, and the gar- 
 dens and quinlas which adorn the mountain sides and 
 lie along the sunny sIojks — it is not easy f(^r a traveller 
 to forget all th.is even after the most rapid flight. P>ut 
 a year's life in this dreamy land leaves an impression 
 which is not easily broken, and which lingers like the 
 flavor of the violet. Portugal keeps her peculiar place 
 in art and literature ; and no one can forget the uni- 
 fonnity and repose into which she has settled after 
 centuries of storm and conflict.
 
 LISBON. 283 
 
 When I readied Lisbon it became my duty to call 
 the attention of the government to a demand for redress 
 for tlie course pursued towards a railway in Africa 
 which had been seized for non-fulfdmcnt of a contract 
 made with an American citi/.en. It is umiecessary to 
 set forth the details of the controversy over the I^)renzo 
 Mar(|ues railway, and it is difficult as well as impru- 
 dent to settle the question here. The Portuguese 
 government assumed that they had acted in accordance 
 with the siMiit of the concession they had made, and 
 that they were not called upon to adjust the difficulty 
 with any government but with the claimants. The 
 instructions fnnn the vState I)ci)artment made it neces- 
 sary for me to demand an arbitration i!i which the 
 United States might appear in behalf of the citizens 
 whose pro]KTty had been confiscated. It was a ques- 
 tion evidently for peaceful negotiation, and it furnished 
 an opportunity for the two nations to manifest their 
 characteristics in conducting and settling a controversy. 
 The correspondence between myself and the I'oreign 
 Ofi'ice at Lisbon contimied througlu)ut the entire year 
 of my residence at the Portuguese Court, and resulted 
 in the SLleclion of Swilzerlaml as the power to indicate 
 an arlntrator. The question was not one in which the 
 peace of nations is involved, Imt it was one in which 
 the temper and disposition of the parties igaged 
 might be conspicuous. The correspondence was intri- 
 cate and voluminous ; and it gave me an opportunity 
 to .study the character of the contestants. Of my own 
 government it may not become me to speak— it carried 
 its point promptly and fiimly. Of the Portuguese 
 goverinnent in all this long and intricate negotiation, 
 in which Ivngland also was involved, I may express my
 
 28-t A Yr.AR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 gratification with the skill and courtesy with which the 
 ccnTe>])on(lciice was conducted. In my weekly visit at 
 the I'oreign Ofhcc I was received with great civility and 
 consideration l)y the ministers who during the year 
 Conducted the diplomatic dealings of the kingdom. I 
 have already spoken of the graceful and impressive 
 maimer in which J^enhor Barros Gomes presented his 
 policy on the African question to the Cortes, and I 
 shall always recall with great pleasure the agreeable 
 and kindly controversies I had with him on the matter 
 in which I had an interest. And S') of his successor, 
 Seiihor Hint/ Roheiro, with whom the negfjtiations 
 were finally (concluded ; 1 learned to admire his di])lo- 
 malic .skill and the gractr with which lie acce])ted the 
 con<lusion. 
 
 I'Vom the Political Director, Senlior Agostino de Or- 
 nellas. and from the vSecretary of the .Minis'.er, Haron San 
 I'edro, I received such courtesies as have j)laced them 
 among my most valuable acfjuaintances and friends. 
 
 It was from the Foreign Office that I received a full 
 set of the acts and decrees of the government of Portu- 
 gal, mnnbering nearly two hundred volumes, for deposit 
 in the State T/ibrary of Massachusetts, virtually an inter- 
 change with the V. S. Department of Agriculture and 
 the Massachusetts .State Board of Agriculture for the 
 valuable vohnnes of these two organizations, which I 
 presented to the gf)vernment of Portugal. 
 
 The business which a foreign minister has with the 
 Foreign Office is ])erformed with great promptness and 
 simj)licity. On each Wednesday the ministers meet in 
 the salon of the stately building in which the office is 
 located, f )rmerly an am]ile and beautiful palace, and 
 each official is admitted to the .Secretary in his turn.
 
 LISBON. 285 
 
 On this occasion all nationalities are equal, the excep- 
 tion being made only in the case of the Papal Nuncio. 
 Monsignor \'annutclli, who takes precedence of all, of 
 whose unassuming and impressive kindness I have 
 already spoken, and who since my leaving Portugal 
 has been elevated to the rank of Cardinal in the Church 
 of Rome, an honor to which he was eminently entitled 
 l)y his virtues and accomplishments. 
 
 It was on these occasions that I met »Sir George 
 Gl>nn Petre, the ICnvoy of Great Ikitain, who cared for 
 the hospitality and social enjoyment of the Diplomatic 
 Corjis ; and Baron dc W'accker Gotter, who represented 
 so well the German P'mpire, and in his presence re- 
 sembled the manner and l)earing of the old Ivmperor 
 William ; and the prudent (/oedel-I/uuioy, who carried 
 mo.st carefully the honor ol Austria in his heart ; and 
 his Ivxeellency de Grelle Rogier, the Ivnvoy of Bel- 
 gium, the hospitable and prudent ; and Baron d' Aguiar 
 d'A.ndrada, who was depressed by the misfortunes of 
 his old friend and master, the ex-hhnperor of Brazil ; 
 and the ICnvoy and Minister Plenipotentiary' of Spain, 
 Senhor Meiidez \'igo, the conrtl\' and loyal Spaniard ; 
 and Monsieur A. Billot, who carried with him as Ivnvoy 
 the spirit and energy of the P'reiich Republic ; and the 
 Count Collobiano, who represented Italy, the father- 
 land of the Dowager-Queen Maria Pia, for which she 
 has an undying afiection ; and the typical Russian, de 
 T'onton ; and Steenbock, the social Swede ; and the 
 musical Rosty, Secretary of the Austrian Legation ; 
 and Polo de Barnabe, the Spanish Secretary ; and now 
 and then Chevalier Cotta. Secretary of the Italian 
 Legation. In the absence of Sir George Petre, Sir 
 George Bonham, the stalely and prudent and diplo-
 
 286 A YIIAF< IN POKTUGAL. 
 
 malic, represented tlie f^ovcrninent of Great Britain. 
 And these ^vere the official associates of the United 
 States Minister to Portui;al. 
 
 In a year passed in any town or countn,' one always 
 gathers abont him a group upon whom he depends for 
 the friendly intercourse which makes life tolerable. I 
 recall them all — my official companions: Wilbor, the 
 \'ice-Con>ul and C7!<7>Xi\ who had preserved his fidelity 
 and his mother toni^iie durin<^ nearly twenty years' 
 residence in I,is])on ; and Ranujs, the faithful old mes- 
 sen;^^er of the Le;-;ation, who had never spoiled his 
 I'orlns^uesi- by ;ui infii-.ii)ii of Ivn^lish ; and De Mattos, 
 the inlerpreler, the Anu.ric.'.n cili/L'n who live<l with 
 and Io\'ed Abraham Linc<ihi, — and the aid the>' ren- 
 dered me in the intricate duties of my office. And 
 among the outside companions of my daily walks I can 
 never forget the venerable banker, George Torlades 
 O'Neill, one of the nuuiy generations who have occu- 
 ])ied the old banking liouse, the rei>resentative of Tor- 
 hules, whose din^y and well-worn (juarters remind one 
 of the Cheeryble linjlhers. and whose appreciation of 
 Spanish ballads, which he repeated with great spirit, 
 gave a peculiar lu>tre to his fine accomplishments and 
 his strong moral (lualilies. The rare O'Neill, with his 
 lo(jse-fitting garments, and his (piaint office, and his 
 glass (jf Copenhagen, and his six miles of a morning on 
 his favorite little mare, and his fine varieties of port 
 wine which he gathered up for his purchasers in I'oston, 
 and his integrity and his beaming eye and noble head 
 and warm heart, — he alom- would make TJ^boii a spot 
 to be remembeix-d by all whom he lo\x-d. With him 
 let me count also the son of New Hampshire, the Union 
 soldier, the genial and warm-hearled Alexander, whose
 
 LISBON. 287 
 
 hospitality rounded out many a leisure day, and re- 
 called the scenes which every New-Englander loves, 
 and made the place American. 
 
 And now as I leave Portugal I look back on her civil 
 institutions with a deepened interest, as I do upon her 
 hills and dales and mountains and rivers. The future 
 of Portugal is a most interesting problem. Small in 
 tciTitor\-, without large manufactures, with the simplest 
 agricnlture, she maintains her individuality ])y every 
 measnre that constitutes nationality. Lying along the 
 Athintic Ocean oti the western shore of ICurope, where 
 the seas are the most peaceful, and the gales are the 
 mildest, and the air the s(»ftest, she has prc^ers'ed her 
 independent character against a long succession of wars 
 and tunuihs, and has kept her tongue pure in spite of 
 the influence of the powerful nationality which liounds 
 her on the east. Her i>resent repose is impressive. 
 While civil commotions disturb so many of her sister 
 nationalities, and the great questionsof popular welfare 
 and labor and civil right and the distril)ution of power 
 are discussed throughout the world, she preser\-es her 
 aiitonomy appareiuly undisturbed In' any of the great 
 social problems which arc discussed by other peoples 
 on both hemispheres. Her government, which is a 
 constituticMial monarchy, and possesses all power to 
 protect her properly, to consolidate her institutions, to 
 secure the holders of her great debt, has laid the 
 responsibility of her civil organization on a ministry 
 .selected from the people. The free<l(jm of the Portu- 
 guese subject can be c<)mi).iie(l favorably with that of 
 the American citi/en. The bonds which bind the peo- 
 ple to the throne are felt in every walk in life. And 
 when the doctrines of popular government are au-
 
 288 A YIIAW IN I'OHTL'GAL 
 
 iiouuccd it is fouiul that all the privileges contained in 
 tluisc doctrines arc already in operation. When a bril- 
 liant scholar iji Oporto presents his republican views, 
 and a brilliant journal in Lisbon makes a cordial 
 resj)onse, it apjK'ars on examination tliat these views 
 have already occupied the ])ob!tical s(;il of tlie kingdom. 
 Xowhere is the jnes^ure of royalty felt ; but one of the 
 glories of the kingdom in the eyes r»f the |»eople is the 
 J (reservation of that ancient ceieinony uhicli ^'.ivi-rt 
 giace and b<anty to her government, and is I'wv. (roiu 
 itidications of tyranny and ojjpression. I douI)t if any 
 throne stands s<> near the peo])le as does that once 
 occupie<l by Dom I'ernando :uid 1 )om Litis, and now 
 graced b)' Dom Carlos and I'rinecss Amelie, 'I'his. 
 inlimate and pcaciful lelation was increased when 
 l'oiln;.',al «.anci^;cd bom ju-r st'iiniy peiio(l. and the 
 reign of Dom I'ernando commenced with its industrial 
 imiffovemeuts. Tlien her territory became ititersectcd 
 by good roads and well-organized railways. Attention 
 was turned to popular education. A government which 
 had foinid refuge in another hemisphere returned to its 
 legitimate W(;rk ; and the pecjj)]e went with it. A daJi- 
 gerous f;r an uncomfortable habitaticju is generrdly 
 abandoned. A sinking ship is alw.iys deserted. The 
 discontented usually flee from the cause of their dis- 
 content. 'J'he I'oilugncse seldom cmi^^rate, 'JMie at- 
 tachment they feel j'or their <nvn land kecj)s tlicm at 
 hoine ; and that home furnishes them the means of 
 .subsistence .and (on fori. 
 
 Ihil how about a I'ortuguese Republic? To a close 
 observer the organization of a republic in I'ortugal 
 wotdd api>ear to be qnile dillicult. In fact, many Por- 
 tuguese themselves declare that but for the existeucc
 
 LISBON. 289 
 
 of Spain on their borders the question of a republic 
 would not be raised ; and that the republican agitation 
 in Spain is a warning and a lesson to Tortugal. While 
 there are those, moreover, who would ai)ply the prin- 
 ciples of i)opular government to this compact and well- 
 organi/.ed monarchy, a monarchy which has been 
 called a "Monarchical Republic," the great mass of 
 the inhnbilants of city and country lejoiee in the 
 cxisleuce of prace, and h;ive been taught to believe 
 tliiil domestic coiilroversy means cruel and bloody war. 
 The strife in Portugal has been thus far a strife for the 
 succession ; and in this strife the i)eoi)le have " waded 
 through seas of blood " imlil they desire otdy peace 
 with their rights. And this they tl:iuk they have. 
 Tile si)iiit of the main body of the army is loyal, even 
 where it is uneasy. Of the thirty-three thotisand in- 
 fantry, cavalry, and arlillety, any feeling of dissatisfac- 
 tion has never yet developed into an open revolt. 
 And whenever a proposition has gone from an am- 
 bitious advocate of republican doctrines to the soldiers, 
 the result has been a slight and imimportant discussion 
 rather than any organized action. In Lisbon and 
 Oporto there are a few advocates of republican theories 
 of government who are inclined to believe all causes of 
 complaint can be removed by the delivery of the ma- 
 chinery into the hands of the people more eniphatically 
 than is now done. T.ut the jH'ople are thus fir content. 
 They have all the p<iw<T they «le.ire. And an uprising 
 is m<»re likely to be a distuibance than a revolution. 
 
 In this ancient kingdom ample provision is made for 
 
 the aduHuistration of law. The judges are aj)pointed 
 
 f(;r life. The judiciary consists of tribtmals with 
 
 elected judges, justices (^f the peace, and intermediary 
 
 I,}
 
 290 A YRAR IN V(jUT\]C,M. 
 
 tribunals. There are two Courts of Appeal and a Su- 
 j)renie Court, one hundred and forty-two tribunals of 
 the first instance, two hundred and ei<;hty-six inter- 
 mediary, ei;;ht Innidred justices, and three thousand 
 nine hundred elected jud;^'es. 'Hic juries have judicial 
 jKJwers. The courts are opvu to all. 'I'lie pn ss is free, 
 wilhout liiiiilation ; domicile i ■< iii\io]abIc ; no person 
 can })(■ iinpiisoned exicpt by due fonn of huv. The 
 Roman Catholic religion is rec<),i;ni/ed !)>• the c^hruler 
 as the reli;,d(jn of the state, while rclit;ious freedom is 
 universal. 
 
 Law, literature, atid relij;ion in I'ortuv^al are sufTi- 
 cicnt for the wants of the co'nmunity, aiidarc recognized 
 as tile firm foundation of an inlelli:^a-nt society. While 
 all annuid are the nionuni'.nts of the past which remind 
 the peo])le of the old ^lory of the kiii.;;<lom, I 'duri-h 
 its mem<jries as I do thai, of the pictiux's of the old 
 masters. 
 
 Tile territorial possessions of Portui^al are great. 
 Aloni; the shore of ICastern Africa and the streams that 
 run into the Indian (\-can she still holds mo^t valuable 
 territory. Western Africa is a tract of great extent, 
 offering her pro'lucls to e\'ery market, and destined to 
 becfjiiu- one oftlie most iii(ru-.lrious and iiinu'iili.'d ])or- 
 tions of the y.lobt;, -ih rommerce advance^ and lh<.' <Iarl; 
 continent is orcu])ief1 by civ'ili/ed races, In tlif islan<ls 
 of tin.' se.'i !'oitu^',al has ii;.;hls which cannot be easily 
 in\'aded. She is like the owner of hirge possessions, 
 of wild lands, waiting for the inevitable adv.ance of 
 civilization. To this may U:. attributed the extraordi- 
 nary f:if-t ()i th" valti" fjf h< r Unvr-^ in the j^r'-at uvnwy 
 markets, 'ii/e premimn they tisnally bear indicates 
 confi<lenee in the aecaim ilation <jf wealth l>ehind
 
 LISBON. 291 
 
 thcni ; and the former owner of Brazil, with her 
 cnormons wealth, and of the riclKS of the Kast Indies, 
 may rest iti patience while a l)iisy world presses upon 
 her inioccupied territory in Africa. 
 
 It seems to he tlie i)art of diplomatic wisdom for 
 I'"n;^dand to pacify I'oittiK'nl. .'iiid hrin^' her into a close 
 alliance once more. In tlx- Ii.mmIs of hjiy^laiid rests all 
 the commerce of l'oilnj.'al, wlio-^c market for her nianti- 
 faclnres she can hardly afford to lose. A peaceful 
 adjustment of the African land ([ueslion ; an aj;reement 
 with ret;:ard to the navigation of Portuj^uesc rivers in 
 Africa ; a .satisfactory tariff on goods crossing Por- 
 tuguese territory ; the construction of railways and 
 telegraphs on all the territories — once secured hy the 
 two nation'' will luidonlitcdl) i)iomote lasting ]K';icc. 
 An alliance like this expands the jiower of one and 
 gives vital force to the other. Antl as Ivngland in all 
 her national itilereourse recognizes the value of her 
 trade, and always treats and fights for her prosperity, 
 it is probable that the present disturbance may result 
 in a combination advamageous to British connnerce, 
 the British holder of Portuguese securities, and to the 
 confirmation of the ])ower of the Bragan/.as in Portugal. 
 In the dispute which arose between Portugal and 
 JCngland (Acr the Ivist Afiica tirrilory, Sciihor I'arros 
 domes expressid th'- strong ^-iiiiimciil of Portugal 
 with regard to lur ancient l)o.■,^e^^ions. Loid Salis- 
 bury had instructed the British Minister. Mr. Petre, to 
 " inform hi'- Isxcellciicy that lur M;ijcst> 's (iovern- 
 ment rccogni/e au llie I'ppcr Z.Mnbf/i the exi-^tcnre of 
 ]'<n\\y/,\\'- '■ '/* f'Jip.'ition of T* ic and Ziunbo, but that 
 they h.ive n<; knowle<lge of llu- o<rnp:(lioii of any other 
 place or district." To this the Portuguese Minibter
 
 292 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 for Foreign AfTairs replied at considerable length, and 
 in his coninninication said : 
 
 " Portugal, who coiKinered India and created Brazil, 
 lias a prist exceeded by no olhc nation. That past 
 ^ives litr the ri^ht to insure her hoj)c-s of a brilliant 
 j)(;ii<)d for her nalioiialily, Africa alone crui guarantee 
 it to her. When she defends her right on that conti- 
 nent, she defends her future." 
 
 To tliih proud and touching appeal Lord vSalisbury 
 replied : 
 
 " Researches have been made in this coiuitr>-, but 
 hitherlo without success, for the ])urpose of recovering 
 the text of the treaty with the ICniperor of Mononio- 
 tapa. on which such large consequences are based. In 
 the absence of this docu'.nentary confirmation we have 
 at present no ground for believing that the ICmperor 
 himself possessed or affected to convey the extensive 
 territories which he is assumed to have surrendered on 
 that Occasion. Still less importance can be attached to 
 the forts whose " well-preserved ruins' have been dis- 
 covered by recent explorers. They are believed by 
 archaeologists to belong rather to the begituu'ng (jf the 
 sixteenth than to the seventeenth century ; but what- 
 ever their ori;.^in, or the date <^f their eonstruction, 
 ♦heir existence in a condition oi well-i)reserved ruin 
 will hardly contribute much to the estrd)lishment of 
 the sovereignty of Portugal. Innls maintained in a 
 condition of efliciency are undoid)ledly a conclusive 
 testimony that the territory on which they stand is in 
 the military f)CCUi)atioii and vuuler the effective domin- 
 i(;n of the ix)\ver to which they beUjug. IJut forts 
 which are in ruins and which have neither been recon- 
 structed nor replaced, can only prove, if they prove
 
 LISBON. 293 
 
 anything:, that so far as that tcrritor>' is concerned, the 
 domination of which they were the instrument and the 
 guarantee is in ruins also. 
 
 " I do not propose to enter furth .-r into the archx- 
 ological argument for the claims (>( Portugal, which 
 are advanced in the despatch «)f Seidjor Itarros Gomes, 
 because in the judgment of Her Mrdesty's Government 
 they are not relevant to the contention for the estab- 
 lishment of which they have been adduced. The con- 
 troversy nuist be decided on other grounds. The fact 
 of essential importance is that the territory hi question is 
 not the effective government or occui)ation of Portugal, 
 and that if it ever was so. Which is very doubtful, that 
 occupation has ceased during an interval of more tlum 
 two centuries. During the whole of that period the 
 Goverinnent of Portugal has made no attemjU either 
 to govern or civilize or colonize the vast regions to 
 which a claim is now advanceil ; and it may be said, 
 with respect to a ver\' large portion of them, that no 
 Portuguese authority has ever attempted their exi)lora- 
 tion. The practical attention of that Goverinnent has 
 (;nly been drawn to them at last by the successful 
 efforts of British travelIer^, and British settlers. The 
 Portuguese authorities during that long interval have 
 made no offer to establish in them eveti the semblance 
 of an effective government or to connneiice the restora- 
 tion of their alleged dominion, even by military expe- 
 ditions, mitil they were slinuilated to do so by the 
 probability that the work of colonizing and civilizi'ig 
 them would fall to the advancing stream of British 
 emigration. It is not, indeed, required by interna- 
 tional law that the whole extent of .i country occupied 
 by a civilized power should be reclaimed from burbur-
 
 29-1 A YHAK IN PORTUGAL. 
 
 ism at once : time is iicccssiiry for the full completion 
 of a process which depends u\Kni the <;radual increase 
 of ^%•ea]lh and populalic^i ; bnt on the other hand no 
 paper annexation of territory can pretend to any valid- 
 ity as a bar to the enterprise of other nations, if it lias 
 never lhroui;h vast periods of time been accompanied 
 by any indication of an intention to njake the occnjia- 
 tion a reality, and has liecn snlTercd to be iiieOlctive 
 and unused for centuries. I ler Majesty's (rt)vernment 
 are tuiable to admit that tlie liistorical ct)nsiderali()ns 
 advanced by vSenhor Harros Gomes can invalidate the 
 rights wliich British traders and missionaries have ac- 
 <]uired by settlement in the valleys of Nyassa and the 
 vShira, nor can they aOect the lawfulness of the protec- 
 tion whicli has beun lone -xlended by Great Britain to 
 Lobenj^ada, and more recently to the Mahololos. 
 
 " Her Majest>-'s Government, therefore, camiot buc 
 look uiH)n any attempt to exercise Portui^uese dominion 
 over the Ikitish .settlements in the district of Shira aufl 
 Lake Nyassa, or over any tribes which are under I'ritish 
 I)rolLC-lion, as an invasion of her Majesty's rij^hts." 
 
 Tlie demand tliat Serpa Pinto, who had command of 
 the Portuguese forces in that region should be with- 
 drawn, having been enforced by Ivngland, and the de- 
 u'.and of Portugal that slie would place herself under 
 the shelter of the ])rovisions laid down in Article 12 of 
 the General Act of Berlin, providing for mediation or 
 arbitration in cases of dispute, having been denied by 
 the British Foreign Ofl'ice, his Majesty's government 
 "reserving in everyway the rights of the Crown of 
 Portugal to tlie African regions in question," sent the 
 orders retiuircd by Gre.it Britain to the Governor-Gen- 
 eral of Mozambicjue. And so the contest ended.
 
 LISBON. 295 
 
 In this connection the views of the Portnj^e^e peo- 
 ple with regard to British dii>loraacy in Kasteni Africa 
 arc vahiablc — and if not vahiablc. are entitled to consid- 
 eration as an illustration of the popular inclination on 
 (luestions of civilization and refonn. The document I 
 now ({note was addressed on. Xovenibcr 20, iS()o, to 
 the i;()vennnent by the (ieoi;raphical Society, a most 
 respectable body, who arc interested in the welfare and 
 prosperity of the kini^doui. The address nndoubt- 
 edly re])resents the pojjular feeling on African civiliza- 
 tion. 
 
 " J/o/is/cnr /(• .Uifi/s/rc : 
 
 " The Lisbon Geographical vSociety could not remain 
 indifferent to the events taking place in ICastern .-Vfrica. 
 They have watched them with close attention and the 
 particular interest which they owe to their social mis- 
 sion and likewise to the encouragement they have 
 received from the government of this country. They 
 therefore come forward to-day, to place in your hand 
 tlie expression of tlieir deep regret and of their indig- 
 nation regarding a fact which they consider offensive 
 and injurions to the i)rinciples of mankind, of civili/.a- 
 tion and law, which onght to govern the influenee, the 
 action, and the relations of civilized nations in Africa 
 between themselves or with the nati\-e tribes. The 
 fict they allnde to is particularly serious, as it implies 
 the violation of an intenuitional agreement to which 
 Portugal has loyally adhered. 
 
 " As you are aware, Monsienr le Ministre, the dis- 
 coverv of important gold mines north of the I.impopo, 
 the advantages and ]ironts to be derived on certain 
 markets from the mining concession> so easih- extorted
 
 296 A Y1:AK in I'ORTMGAI.. 
 
 by cuiniin^ luivcnlurcrs from the suvaj^e chiefs of 
 African tribes, have attracted a number of travellers 
 and explorers to the country known as Metabeleland. 
 
 '■ Several of these travellers succeeded in 18S7 in ob- 
 t:iinin<; from the principal chief of that tril)e (Loben- 
 gula) a contract grantiiig them the sole right of work- 
 ing the gold mines situated not only in his own country 
 or territories, and in C('untry or territories lying under 
 his sway. Init also in neighboring territories. What 
 Lobengida was to get in exchange for this singular 
 concession no one susjvcteil for a l(Mig time. It was 
 merely stated that the lessees were to pay him a certain 
 royally payable yearly, but that the validity of the 
 concession was dej)endent up.')n the reception by the 
 chief of a certain (piantity of arms and amnuniition 
 with which the lessees were to supply him. The exis- 
 tence of the latter clause was removed in the Transvaal 
 and the Hritish Cape Colony, bu: it is only recently 
 and from what transpired in a debate at the Cape Par- 
 liament that it has become an ascertained fact — a fact 
 which all reasonable and well-niinded authorities on 
 African (juestions had hitherto declined to believe. 
 
 " Mr. Merriman, Member of the Cape Parliament, 
 cpiestioning the Cape G(jvernment. pointed out that 
 the lessees of the Metabeleland gold mines had for- 
 warded to Lobengula 1,000 Martini-Henry rifles, with 
 their bayonets, and T,(y>,ooo cartridges, and that the 
 weajHons had been conveyed in transit through Cape 
 Colony in spite of the special laws governing the im- 
 portation of firearms and war ammunitittn. 
 
 " The first reply made by the Prime Minister. Sir 
 Gordon Sprigg. clearly shows that the minister did not 
 believe such a report. He j)romised, however, to make
 
 LISBON. 297 
 
 immediate inquiries, and on the following day declared 
 to the Chamber tliat the assertion was well founded. 
 
 " He related the circumstances in detail, and added 
 that he had thout^ht fit to blame the conduct of one of 
 the highest officials of the Colony, who, knowing that 
 the weapons had l^een introduced in the ccnuitr\-, had 
 not informed the Colonial Govenunent of the fact. 
 The truth is that from January to March of that year, 
 i.ooo Martini-Henry rifles had passed in transit with 
 3(>(^.(>x) cartridges through Cape Colony. They had 
 been taken from the Cu^Unu-l louse and forwarded by 
 the agents of the MelabcleLuul mine lessees. The 
 Colonial authorities after some hesitation had at last 
 assented to the arms leaving Kimberly and being con- 
 veyed across the frontier on the strength of an order 
 .signed by vSir vSidney vShii)part, High Conunissioner in 
 Hritisli liechuanalaiul, the represenlatixe of the actual 
 Government of Great I>ritain, toward which he was 
 solely responsible for all measures taken by him. 
 
 " The above-mentioned debate and the discussion 
 which followed in the newspapers cleared all doubts as 
 to the fact of i .c >o rifles and 300,000 cartridges having 
 l)een sent to Matabeleland and supplied to Lobengula. 
 Now the Matal)cles are considered bv the best-informed 
 travellers as the most (piarrelsome, barbarous, atul 
 sanguinary tribe throughout Southeast Africa. This 
 tribe is not composed of natives of the district it occu- 
 pies. It coiKpiered it by exterminating the original 
 population in iS;^;, when the nott)rious Mu/.ilikatse, 
 routed by the Boers, crossed the I,impn])o and went to 
 settle in Matabeleland with his Zulus. .Succeeding 
 Mu/.ilikalse, Lobengula followed in his footsteps by 
 remaining faithful to the bU)ody antl tyrannical tradi-
 
 2y.s A yi;an in I'oRriKiAi.. 
 
 tiotis of his race, iiivadiuj^ and laying waste the terri- 
 tories i)f iiciglihoring tribes, stripping the latter of all 
 their va]uu1)lv.s. reducing them to slavcr>-, spreading on 
 all sides terror and death. 
 
 " The principal \'icliHis of such a violent policy have 
 been the natives of Mashonaland who reside northward. 
 This pjaceful and industrious jKjpulation, which have 
 long maintained the relation of friendly vassals to the 
 I'ortnguese autlujiitirs and seltkis of the Zniube/.i, are 
 cruelly jferscMited and constantly assaulted by the 
 Matabclcs, who seek to con(pur and annihilate Ihent, 
 aUIiou;.',h tlii'y lia\e not _\ct (■onipliltiv suct'ei-ded in 
 their allenipt. 
 
 'I'lie ciuel'iy of the Malabei<s has ]kv\\ recently 
 lMoii}.;ht into stiong i\'iiif by the I'.isliop ol' I'.loemfon- 
 tain, an antlioiity whom no one will gainsay. Return- 
 ing in iSSS from an excursion in that eountry, the noble 
 prelate, still smarting under the impression of the 
 barbarous acts he had witnessed, delivered in a public 
 meeting at X'riburg in I'ritish I'echuanaland the fol- 
 lowing words wliich Mr. Merriman ([notes in one of 
 his Parliamentary sjieeches : 
 
 ■ " ' One thing I would not do for the life of me would 
 be to h:md a gun to Lobengula even if lie were to ask 
 me. I w^ndd rather sacrifice the lives of the whole of 
 my expedition than to supply firearms to a Matabele, 
 for every (Mie should know that in the hands of such a 
 tribe rifles would only be used for the purpose of mur- 
 dering innocent and powerless people. The man who 
 handed ;i rifle to tlu' Matabclcs wotiUl have cause to 
 repent it bitterl\' in this world and the next. The 
 U'eie act of provi<ling the Matabeles with weapons is 
 .so al)ominable that no fiendish cruelty cotdd siu pass it.'
 
 LISBON i99 
 
 " Although widely known, the opinion thus expressed 
 by a venerable and truthful churchman has not been 
 able to i)revail against mercantile self-interest and 
 greediness, nor to prevent an luiglish company from 
 providing a barbarous and bloodthirsty people with 
 improved firearms, which will make it easy for them 
 to crush and destroy in complete safety the peaceful 
 tribes living in the neighl)orliO()d. 
 
 " But this is not all. »Such ati outrage on civilization 
 has left many people unmoved, and has ev.-n found 
 iiKuiy to excuse it in a country of which certain insti- 
 lulious ami seveial ne\v.s]).ipeis ]>eisisled, and still i)er- 
 sisl with all their might, jigainst all truth and justice, 
 in denouncing Portugal as a country which reduces 
 the nativis into bondage an<l ill-treats them. 
 
 " ( )l" what nsecotild tlusc-arms and :immunilif)U be to 
 Lobeiigula ? SiMvly he was not going to keep thetn 
 within the boxes in which they had been conveyed 
 through two Ibilish colonies, nor to hang up and 
 admire as harmless works of art. 
 
 "Several I-jigiish paper,s acknowledge that this dan- 
 gerous and formidable ecpiipment will be used by the 
 Matabeles to achieve the con([uesl of the Mashona ter- 
 ritories and their wealthy mines, and to hurry into 
 slavery the unfortunate native tribes, who, although 
 mentioned on Ivnglish maps by the extraordinary title 
 of ' Slaves of the Matabeles/ have not been entirely 
 reduced into bondage or wiped off the face of Al'rica l>y 
 means of the simple arrow or the assegai. 
 
 "Presumably the proud and savage chief will en- 
 deavor to ju.stify by means of iron and fire his claims 
 already acknowledged and approved by Ibilish diplo- 
 macy, biit which are wholly unfounde<l ami denied by
 
 300 A Vr.AN IN I'ORTIJGAL 
 
 more llinn onecijiiipelciil aulliority, and which aiiioutits 
 t(j sayiiij; that the Urritory of the Mashonas Ijelougs to 
 Ih^ country ^o\crncd by I^oljcii^uKi. 
 
 " Now Maslioualaiid is a traditional portion lujt of tlie 
 territory occupied l)y tlie Mat;ibeles, l)Utoftliose which 
 liaye always been considered as within the sphere and 
 soverei};nty of the Portn,i;u(.:si-, a ciicuin>.lance wljich 
 the rortu;;uese Ciovernnient has just taken care to i)ro- 
 daim by the fnial ori^ani/.alion of the Zinnbo district. 
 
 "Part of the weapi»ns handed to Lobengula ini;^ht 
 have been put to another use worthy (;f special alten- 
 tion at the presc-nt time, and in the face of the interna- 
 tional aj'.reement in f)pcration. They could be sold 
 and expoiled by I,oben;,',ula in the Xorllu rn coinitries 
 wluri- tlie Arab sla\c h'lnlers would ha\e puichased at 
 lii;^h ))rices rifles and aninnniition which the blockade 
 of the eastern coa^^t i)i"i.\ented them from oblaininjj; 
 from the laUer fpiarler. 'iMiis view of the matter is 
 jierfectly rational. Persons of e.\])erience in African 
 ways and customs well know how easily the natives 
 tra\el tlirou.i;h enormous distances to exchan;^^! their 
 goods aj^^ainst other goods they have a fancy for or feel 
 in want of. 
 
 " Neither were the governments which had agreed to 
 the blockade of the Ivistern coast unaware of this 
 themselves. This is ]>roved by the fact that on Novem- 
 ber i6, iSS.S. the J'witish Minister at Lisbon when noti- 
 fying to our government the intention of blockading 
 the Zanzibar coast, declared that the I'ritish and (^er- 
 mrui governments di<l not believe in the efficaciousness 
 of such a measure without the co ojxTation of Porlugrd 
 and the simuUaneous closing of the Mo/,ambi<{ue coast 
 to the e.N])ortation of Mla\es and the importation of
 
 LISBON. m 
 
 arms and ammunition with which the Arab dealers 
 provide themselves for the expeditions into the interior. 
 The Portuguese govertiment acceded to this. Accord- 
 ing to a decree dated December 6th, they ordered the 
 blockade of the Porti^guese coast as far down as the 
 District of I^orenco-Manjuez, and prohibited the intro- 
 dn(>tioji of all ammnniti(Mi of war in the districts of 
 C;ipe Iklgado, Mo/.ainl);(iue, Angoche, (Juilimane. 
 vSdfala, and Inhambane. 
 
 " What a singular coincidence. At the very moment 
 when a great number of tliiefs. our frieJids and vassals, 
 complained of being witliont arms and amnumition for 
 their own ])roU(>(ion ru.d the lefpiirements of (.A'cry-day 
 lift- ; at the very moment when Ivngbsh adventurers 
 and inlrignets were indueing them to believe that we 
 refuse<l sui)i)lving then> with such arms in order to 
 render them defenceless against ourselves (a fact of 
 vvhieh we have written ])roofs in the records of our 
 Society) ; at tliat very moment l/)l)engida. situated at 
 tlie north of Inhambane, was re-eeiving a formidable 
 amount of weapons which lu; could offer to the slave 
 dealers and wliieh at all events were to be partly used 
 in reducing to slavery the peaceful and industrious 
 Mashonas. 
 
 "If this cousigmnent of improved fiiearms in the 
 hands of a greedy and barbarous ehiefain accustomed 
 to practise the horrible slave-trade had been made with- 
 out the ai)proval and knowledge of a highly situated 
 liritish official, one could at the most but deplore the 
 neglect .and shorlsiglUedness of the Ihiti^^h authorities 
 and the blindness inul selfishness of a mercantile spec- 
 ulation e:irried <pn in \ iol.ilion of the law, I'ut:isilhas 
 been shown and proved llial the highest authority of a
 
 302 A YtAR IN I'ORTUGAL 
 
 couiilry uiucli prides itself upon working in tlie cause 
 of iiumkind and African civilizali'jn lias been consent- 
 ing pari)- to such a sale of \veai)ons, the circumstance 
 assiniKh the gravest as])ecl j>ossil)Ie and can but cause 
 fcelingsof sorrowful suijm ise and excite the most melan- 
 choly api.iivhcuNions, 
 
 "Such is tilt sentiment of rcs))cctful but firm .and 
 sincere prot<.-.t wlii'h the (ycogrrijdiical Society of 
 IJiibon, a humble ;in<l lo)';tl co ojc'Lilor in th<,- holy 
 cau.c of Adicnn civili/alion, hut (he hoiioi to .submit 
 to l!)<' «'\;iltcd and |i;ili ioijc jiiicniion o| tlic I'oi lii,i',iie',e 
 (»o\'«i niiK lit ;i-) ii jMc-.ciili d b)' \oiir )'', y.( elli.aic>', 
 " To his live III my tit,- Mi>iislir\ 
 vj till' Mali III' ami llir C<)li>/i/f:s,"\ 
 
 It must be evident to the reader of this document 
 that the rortuguese :u\- interested in the elevation of 
 their c<uuitry. That they resent any insult offered it 
 directl>' or indirectly we ha\-e already abundant evi- 
 dence. As in the case of the occupati<jn of Portuguese 
 territ()r>' in Africa, so in the introduction of institutions 
 repugnant to the best sentiments of the country, the 
 j)rotest is strong and determined. This is apparently 
 the character of tlie i?""plc who hold in their hands 
 the destinies of Portugal. It is ivit easy to tell when 
 this determination will change. Ihit I think not yet, 
 'I'he introduction of h"rench I<ei)ublicanism during the 
 Xrijioleonic w;n^' has undotdiledly had .some i-ffect oil 
 the ]>o]'u]ar mind ; and this dfrct is d'-moustr.alcd by 
 the lib( lal spiiit into lln- coiistitution and the organ- 
 i/.ati'jii of the go\'enii!K-nl. Theic arc those who think 
 this spirit will go no firtlu-r. I'ait there are tho.se also 
 who can see in their minds' eye th<.- King Hying acro.s.S
 
 LISBON. 303 
 
 the frontier, and the sudden organization of a republic, 
 with a l)l(>odles.s revolution. The effect of the French 
 Rcpuhlio on the governments of ICuroiK is destined to 
 be gnat. From confusion and turtnoil a strong and 
 ])')\verfiil and peacefnl and prospennis nationality has 
 aii .'11 vvliieh attracts the attention of all J-airope, and 
 will one day exert a vast innuenee on tlie popidar 
 mind. Wlielher the existing governments can resist 
 this infbKiue lime alone ean tell. IJnt whatever may 
 be tin- ic'.nit, tlie d;iy is l;ir distant wIk-II the <.ld 
 mon;iiclii( ■* will be ti;iii,'.r<.t iiicd, .nid the old liabiti will 
 beliiid aside, and the iuslilnlions of the fathers will bo 
 remodelled, .and the civil atuH^spheie will be changed. 
 When the floods come and the winds blow, the fate (jf 
 the n.itions can possibly be foretold. Meanwhile Portu- 
 gal ;is apolitical institution maintains her position. 
 
 lUit the time arrived when I could admire and specu- 
 late on Portugal no longer. It w.is when the sun was 
 declining across the wide waters of the river that I 
 stcpi)ed on board a steam tug and was whirled over 
 the wavy stream to the steamer Lan/raiic, in which we 
 were to be borne to Liverpool. The day was bright 
 and breezy, the little tug danced, the spray washed 
 and wet us, and we clandx-red up tlie side of the great 
 shij), where we lay for an hour signalling our farewells 
 to a few kind friends. And then .is the sun went down 
 we i)assed the i)ictures<iue and dij^nified and hoary 
 Pclem, .and r.an along the heights of Cinlra, and 
 watched the lights as they came out in the evening 
 daikness, and wondered whi< h w.is Montserr.ate .and 
 which the "Lawrence" and which the Onedes, and 
 saw the r.ay wdiieli shot from the height and knew 
 that this was the last to us of Pciia, the charming
 
 304 A YEAR IN PORTUGAL 
 
 old home of Doiii I'crnando and his Countess. As we 
 skirted along the coast the mysteries of the scenery 
 increased in the darkness, we began to calculate how 
 many hours it would be before we reached the mouth 
 of the Dourc) and the Cape Finisterre, and we were 
 soon on our way on the trackless sea with the stars 
 ab(n-e us and nothing around us but the splashing 
 waters. The morning came, and with it the conscious- 
 ness that we were traversing the Bay of Biscay and 
 were well on our voyage. The wild and stormy Bay 
 was in its gentlest mood, Tlie surface of the sea was 
 .sparkling with the most cheery and brilliant light, as 
 the West wind dro\-c over it and warmed and lulled us 
 into .security in that luMiie of wild storms and tem- 
 I)estn')US waves, I looked for the " vivid lightning " 
 and listened lor tin- " dieadful thunder " and waited 
 for the rain which "a deluge poured," and called to 
 my mind the spirited voice of the great Braham as he 
 .sang that inspiring song which won from the Italians 
 of his day the tribute, 'Won c ^ icitofc in Italia conic 
 Jh-a/iaiii," .and rcnised the ancient audience , to a stormy 
 wildness. W'e crossed the Bay while it was in gentle 
 mood mid steamed on day and night C(jmi):'.ni(jnless 
 and alone, until far away we discerned the Scilly Isles 
 enveloped in fog and assuring us that we were in a 
 known region <jf the earth and bound up the Channel 
 for Liverpool, Day was far s])ent v.hen we sailed up 
 the .Mersey and found ourselves welcomed by the ofii- 
 cers of the port, who had been n.otified of our coming, 
 and who took good care for the storage of our luggage, 
 and directed us to the hotel which was to shelter us 
 tnitil the next day, when we were to .sail for Boston on 
 the "ood steamer Scvt/iia.
 
 BOSTON. 305 
 
 The final voyage was bright and sparkling. We 
 sauntered over a smooth sea into the harbor of Queens- 
 town to take the mails and pick up a passenger or 
 two, and trade with the agile girls who sat in the 
 bight of a rope as they were huistcd up the side to sell 
 their pipes and lace and linen, and to admire their 
 agility and courage. And when the mails were all on 
 board and the trafilc all over we steamed out into the 
 wide ocean and were soon lost to all the world. Day 
 after day the tireless flocks of gulls followed in our 
 wake, resting at inter\'als on the bosom of the waters, 
 and rising in sweeping flight to settle in a hurrying 
 crowd upon a morsel of food thrown from the ship. 
 The sea was wintry — so said the captain. The bright 
 little Irish girl, who was bound to Salem, tried in 
 vain to cheer us — the sea was at times too nuich f(jr us. 
 My mercantile friend from Boston laughed evening 
 after evening at my vain attempts to l)eat him 
 at euchre. The solenui form of Mr, Leslie Stephen 
 paced nj) and down, or fi)re and aft, the deck, giving 
 assent now and then to some wise remark upon the 
 weather or on some well known hero in history. The 
 .second-cabin passengers cast longing ,<';lances over the 
 ropes upon the scattered crowd who ruled in some- 
 what melancholy mood the privileged and aristocratic 
 planks of tlic ship, until the divided connnunily was 
 thrown into one by that most tragic of all events at 
 sea, the plunge of a passenger into the seething waters, 
 A ])0(jr bewildered waif, cra/ed by the sorrows of life, 
 or heartbroken by the thouv;ht of those he had left 
 behind, or maddened by drink, suddenly tore himself 
 from his companions and threw himself into the sea. 
 The horror-stricken men and passengers gathered at
 
 306 A YliAK IN TORTUGAL. 
 
 llic sides of the ship ;nul strained their eyes to catch 
 sight of that desperate mortal whom the sliip was fast 
 leaviui; in the raj;iiig waters. Not a sound was heard, 
 except tlie hurried loosinj; and mamiing of the boats 
 lor the rescue, in which every moment seemed an hour. 
 Somewhere in those crested waves wliich danced and 
 ran in a hurryinj; tiunult was a human heinj;, strut;- 
 j;liny; or drownini; in desperate resi<;nation. Par olT, 
 the ])oat, tossed upon the waters, took her course for 
 the sliip. All hoi>e was abandoned, and we were left 
 to reaii/e in .silence that a fellow-creature had j^one to 
 his last account. We were c;dled to contennilate the 
 desjxiir of ir.an and tlu." my.stery of the .sea. 
 
 The reinainiui; incidents of the voyai;e were tame 
 and usual. The mo;un*nv? of the ship's horn in the 
 " };loomy doubts" of the foj;^, the starllini; appearance 
 of the iceber.u; wliich lay at the windward of us and 
 solemnly made ils way to that destruction from which 
 we sped, the ship at sea which we si^^nalled and whose 
 ti(lini;s were unimportant — these thin;.;s made up the 
 ordinary sea-voya};e. JUit there is an hour when the 
 f;unili.ir headland api)ears in the far-off hori/.on, and 
 the charm of that .scene wliere " his islands lift " their 
 welcome hills and <;roves anil warm your heart, and the 
 familiar fishicrnuui steers his swift .schooner close to the 
 stern of your ship, and the spires of the city loom and 
 glisten in the sun, and the gilded dome shines in the 
 morning light, and you realize that at last you liave 
 reached the desired haven, Boston. In an hour I was 
 in Salem, and my diplomatic career had come to an end.
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 All explanation of the vigiietle oti the title-page, the 
 magpie, can be found on j^age 37. 
 
 The death of Prince Napoleon, George Torlades 
 O'Neill, and De Matlos has taken place since these 
 pages were written. 
 
 The financial condition of Portugal is variously 
 stated. The debt in 18S2, accoriling to the best au- 
 thorities, amounted to $392,775,000. In discussing 
 this indebtedness it is now declared that it has risen 
 from about $40o,ooo,o(X) in 1S75 to nearly $70<),CKX),f)C)0 
 at present. Tlie deficit estimated for the current year 
 is upwards of $2,000,000 ; and but for the controversy 
 with ICngland, a Portuguese loan of $5(),(xx),ooo would 
 have been negotiated last year in the London market, 
 based on a govcnnncJit monopoly of the tobacco manu- 
 facture. It appears that it was not a want of rt-sources, 
 but a want of harmony, whicli prevented this loan. 
 
 The debt of Spain was $2, 504,74s, 370 in 1S82 ; 
 of Italy, $2, 042, OCX), 000 ; of France, $-1, 750,337, 109, 
 according to the returns of that year. 
 
 307
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Abbot, Abicl, 6 
 APfonso, Prince, 49, 59, 76 
 AfTonso VI., 76 
 Africa, South, 85 
 A^av-^i/. 3(\ 193 
 Ailsa, Mar(iiiis of, 63 
 Ajuda, 4, 8, 154-58 
 Ail)uinier(jiie, 37 
 AIc(il)ai,a, 89, 98, 144-49 
 Alcimjucr, 94 
 Alcvaiiilor, 'jSS 
 Alivandcr \'I., 2t 
 Al^;arvf>, (>(> 
 Alliaiiilira, 35 
 Aljuharriiia, 95 
 AlniiMi <lo Carlliapcna, 23 
 Alvaro, I )i>in, 72, 73 
 AintTiian statcMiioii, 204 
 .\!i<lrailc Amiiardo, 285 
 Aiiclrailc, I'lciie de, 69 
 Andrea del Sarto, 25 
 Aii^;..la, 58 
 Aii^oiilcnic, 18 
 Adsta. Didxc d', 82 
 Apple Wry, 47 
 Araliitlos, 32 
 (\riiolil. Sir l".dwii\, 6 
 Ascut, 2 
 
 I) 
 
 l?ai!ajns, 247 
 
 Hariiahy, I'nl') dc, 37 
 
 Itarros (lyines, Signor, 35, 36 
 
 r.a'n.lpa, 100 
 
 Heckcf, Tltoinan i^, too 
 
 Uetkford, 124, 131 
 
 r-elein, 05, 80 
 
 IViiitica, Church of, 66 
 
 Hey, Aristarclii, 14 
 
 I'iarritz, 19 
 
 r.lack, William. 6 
 
 lilaiiie, James Ci., 1S6 
 
 I>oiiapartc, l.ctitia, 83 
 
 )!(>nliam, Sir ( Icur^e, 63, 285 
 
 I'xirdeaiix. 1 8 
 
 l!>)taiiy <if Mmitserratc, I27 
 
 I'.culan^er, 13 
 
 It'iunimiil, 95 
 
 I5(niin. ( Invuiiior, 2l6 
 
 lira^a. ()5 
 
 l!'aj;an/a, 57. 77, 78 
 
 l!ra^aii/a, ll'itcl, 27 
 
 Hra/il. 77, 191-196 
 
 lirites, 1 )i>na, 95 
 
 I'r(n\L',liam, ryt 
 
 lirow iiiiiL;, 213 
 
 iJryce. 5 
 
 lirycu, I.iiiyd, 6 
 
 I'.ldl-li^li!, 140-42 
 
 I'.iiukei Hill, 92 
 
 I'.urgMs 20, 23, 24 
 
 Hyroii, Lord, 9, 108 
 
 Ca.li/. 226 
 
 ("aiimens. 107, loS 
 
 CajT C.-l, 4S 
 
 Cape (if Cudil llopo, 30 
 
 3'>J
 
 310 
 
 INDLX. 
 
 Carlos, Dom, 3^, 37, 76 
 
 (':irlic|^ic, 5 
 
 C.'irnot, I'rcsidciit, 17 
 
 (.'asl•.^t•'^, 7(1, 2<>I 
 
 (asiehir, 2.|o, r.4i 
 
 Ca-iik-. 21 
 
 ("avtr>>, I)()in Aharodc, 70 
 
 Cislro, I )())ii f iari'iiv <lc, Cj 
 
 Castro, Doiii Juliii (Ic, 54, (/}, ()i), 
 
 "?. I 33 
 ("a^Uo, I >()in l.ni'^ <lc, 73 
 C'a^tri), i)ima Inc/. dc, 70, 91^ 
 ('a^^ro, Seiilior I.uoiaiui dc, 1S4 
 Cliainlicrlaiii, linn. J., 7 
 (.'iKiiiiln-rlniii, Mrs.. 7 
 (.'haiiil/cT i)f I >(.-]nitics, 13 
 Cli Midinrd. Clialcaii de, l3 
 riianliT, W'iiilliroj), 213 
 ('liaiIiMiia;;Mc, 121 
 ( Italics, I'lmiitTKr, 71 
 (liatlfs v., 2t 
 (id, 21 
 Cinlia, 2-^, 2"), 51, t;^, 7^,91, 1 20, 
 
 I.V), I |o 
 ( ivila \ {■< 1 Ilia. 'jii» 
 (lew land l;.i)v, H 
 
 < ly.l.-, (.1 
 
 < l)dc-daks. H 
 CnaHifs. 2') I 
 
 < ■niiidira, <)4, i<».} 
 
 Cnllairs, 4S 
 
 Cillnhianu, 2:^5 
 
 Ciindcsialilf, 23 
 
 {■"iiij^o, 85 
 
 <'oiiliiiiin, I)(ina I.conor dc, 71* 
 
 Conway, Mniiciirc I)., 217 
 
 Cniivcnt <if St. Icr<niic, 80 
 
 (.!<)iil<, Sir i'raiui'^, 63, 6S, 132, 136 
 
 Cork Convfiit, 63, 72, 1 33 
 
 Coronation Ceremonies, 169-179 
 
 Coriiiina, 92, <;'') 
 
 Cotta. Cluvalicr. 137, 2S5 
 
 Curtis, 229 
 
 I? 
 
 Vii M alios, 2^6 
 I)c 'r<M.<|in;villc, J 
 
 Derby, Cicorpe, 147 
 
 h'Kti, Count, 164 
 
 HiiintT to (Mriccrsof White S(iuad- 
 
 ron, 1O7, lOS 
 Dio, 71 
 
 I >om AfTonso ncnri<|iies, 35, 94 
 ! )oni ,\ffons<) VI., 31 
 DoiM .\ii^;usto, 56, 59 
 I )om Dini/, 94 
 Domesday I'ook, 6 
 Doni I'eriKindo, 2t, 3U, ^(), 84, 
 
 Dom lo:V) I., 95 
 
 Doni Jolin, 57 
 
 Doni lohii ]., 37 
 
 Dom lolni III!, ?it 
 
 Dom "lolm IV., 5S 
 
 I)om loliii v., 58 
 
 Dom Joso V,, 32 
 
 Dom I.iiis I., 57, Oi), 76, 79 
 
 Dom Manoel, 311, 35, (/>, 80 
 
 I )om Manoel lidanln, 165 
 
 Don; Mi^;nel, e,H, 59, 73, 95 
 
 I »om SaiH !io, 9 J 
 
 I loiiii lit iilri' , ■,! 
 
 I Ion 10, </.!, 97 
 
 DiyiliM, 7 
 
 I >iil(irin, I ady, 213 
 
 iv 
 
 I'.amcs, Miss, 13 
 I'.dinlMiijdi, i)nkc of, 8t 
 iidla, ( 'oniiless, 3<) 
 i;ilfei Tower, \(i 
 i:il-e. I 
 
 HI Cofrc del Cid, 23 
 I'.iDcrson, l<al](li \Val<lo, 155 
 I'"sse\ (,'onnty, 63 
 lv\])osilion, I aris, 15 
 
 !•• 
 
 Farratjnl, 74, 75 
 i'cr<linand tlic Catholic, 80 
 i'icalhi), Count, I 84 
 Field, ( (smiod, 213 
 Foiilon, 2b 5
 
 INIMiX. 
 
 Jit 
 
 ]• nil rill nf July, ?r> 
 iTaiuisc'i <lu Castro, 74 
 Fimclial, M.irclifsa ilc, 37 
 
 dalli, Count and Countess, 17 
 Cama, hum l-'.stcvan do, 70, 75 
 Ciardiii Party at I'.lysi'cs, 17 
 (iairisun, Mrs. Coinimxloru, 6 
 ( ici'^;r;\|iliical Society, 2<;5 
 Celtysliurj;, 25 
 Cil-rallar. Straits of, 31, (/) 
 CdiL-y, Mr.. 8 
 Cdadsi-m;, \V. V.., 5, 13 
 C.oa, 71 
 
 Cmcdil-I.annoy, 285 
 Cmiik"-, S. Coi'llio, 137 
 (■..itliif Cathedral, 21 
 ( iraiil, ( ieiirral, 75 
 < '.riat I'.iar, (t.\, '-'(K) 
 CmIU', Kot^iur, 285 
 
 It 
 
 Hair. )■:, 1;,, iH(. 
 
 IIi.ii.l.uri;li, HS 
 Ilawtlioriic, 2117, 216 
 Henry, Hon. Miiclx-ll, 207 
 Hcrcfords, 8 
 Hint/ Kolifiro. 28.} 
 Hotfman. Mr. and. Mrs., j.\ 
 Holiinzoilern, I'rincc, 8t 
 1 (uni|ilirics, 28 
 I liiiitini.'.iun, (!, I'., 14 
 Hunter, Jolin, 4 
 Hyde I'ark, 91 
 
 India, 6f> 
 Indian Oeean, 65 
 
 J 
 
 Jay, Mr. and Mrs. Augustus, 14 
 Jesuits, 77 
 Junol, 58, 92 
 
 K 
 
 Kerrys, 8 
 Kinj:, 49 
 Kinj.^s!ey, Canon, 3 
 
 I.adv V'ranklin, 29 
 
 I.ady Pel re, j(> 
 
 I.andor, 213 
 
 Law ton, Mr. and Mrs., 6 
 
 Legation, V. S., 28 
 
 Leon, 21 
 
 I.eiiiKudo da Vine;. 31; 
 
 l,<;\\enliauiit. Count and Countess, 
 
 14 
 
 Lieliienslein, i^ 
 
 I.ishon, 27. 2\ (k\, C.5, SS, 91 
 
 l,is|i..u. anli<|iiilieH of, 247 ; cliur. 
 elies of, 250, 2?2 ; lilerattiie of, 
 253, 254 ; I'alaeev of, 257, 258 ; 
 S'H'ares of, 2^f> 
 
 l.oj^an, Mrs, Jn!,u A., f) 
 
 i.ondoi;. 2. 3' 28 
 
 Loren/o Man|ueH, 283 
 
 l.orihi;. ^i^s., ^(> 
 
 I.umI.', I till e <.if. 3? 
 
 I.MUvll, j. U., ISO 
 
 l.o\\tll, Pen ival, 129 
 
 I.Yltoii, Lord, 29 
 
 M 
 
 Madrid. 21, 25. 2<'>. 28 
 
 Mafra, -^o, 31, 14, 9! 
 
 Maine, 4^ 
 
 Maraidiani, 58 
 
 Marl.leliead. 48 
 
 Maria, 1 >oi)a. So 
 
 ?>laria (ilxria. 57, ?9, S4 
 
 Maria I'ia, 3'^) 
 
 Marii; .\nieli<; (I'Orleans, 36 
 
 Masirr of Avi/. '|C 
 
 Mis liiiwer, 74, 7? 
 
 Me<iilerraneaii, 88 
 
 Mt Ixll^H, I I I 
 
 Meiiile/ Vi^v, 285
 
 3t2 
 
 INDS-X. 
 
 >toriil.'\, 236 
 Micliacl Aii^;clo, 25 
 Miguel, I)<^in, 187 
 Miranda, lf)7 
 
 M'mt|)CPMcr, Duke <lc, 81, 82 
 Mii'irc. Sir johii, «^2 
 Modrish J'.iliKC, 2<; 
 M-.r^^.m. J. S.. 7 
 Murlcy. J.-liii. (< 
 Mdrt'Mi, Mrs. L. 1'., 13 
 Murill... 25 
 Murray, (Jciicral, 93 
 
 N 
 
 Nfipicr, Sir Clinrlts, r/i 
 
 Napli.., 207, 2<)<; 
 
 Napulffiii, 53 
 
 Najiolcon, rrince, 213, 214 
 
 Ni-ix-svida'U-s, I'a)fiti'> das, 59 
 
 Nelson, (/), 2'H 
 
 Ncvill, Ilcnry, 13^ 
 
 Ni-vv, <'i)nsul-<i(.-iicral, 6 
 
 New Mrs,, (, 
 
 Ncwjtnit, ";(> 
 
 Ncy, <)2 
 
 Niiodcnius, 23 
 
 Nit/a, Dona I^upchie <le, 37 
 
 N'lrcnilia, l)i>na l.coiior dc, 69 
 
 Norway, 64 
 
 O 
 
 O'Noill, (Icorjje Torladcs, 286 
 
 < >i>orlo, 92. 93 
 
 Orleans, 18 
 
 Crncllas, Aj;ostino de. 2S4 
 
 Olib, Mr. and Mrs.. 14 
 
 r 
 
 V.il.ice of HetTi]>osta, iSo 
 
 I'alaic of Montscrrate, 12S-132 
 
 I'alni'.Tston, 91 
 
 i'alincr. U. S. Minister, 26 
 
 J'.inthcon, 83 
 
 Paris, 2H 
 
 I'edro, Dimi, ICx-I'liniicror, 1^4, 
 
 I'edro IV,. 57 
 
 I'cdro, 'I'lie (.'rinl, 70, 99 
 
 I'edro v., 59 
 
 I'ena, 29 
 
 I'etia Loiifja, 55 
 
 I'ernainhuco, 58 
 
 i'etrc. Sir (k'orfje (ilynn, 285 
 
 i'liili|» !!., 2(>, 57 
 
 I'liilij'Iia, i<Kj 
 
 I'iikerin}^;, Jolin, 28 
 
 I'ickinan, 27 
 
 I'oictiers, iS 
 
 I'oiilii s of I'ortugal, 263 
 
 I'olled Angus, 8 
 
 I'olo (Ic J!arnai)e, 285 
 
 I'onilial. KX). 1 13 
 
 I'ope, Canon, i 3') 
 
 Po'tcr, {}. S. .Minister. 213 
 
 I'ortugal, 27, 28. 31 
 
 1 ortugnese I'.atlles, 102, 103 
 
 i'orluguesc (.'onsiitutiim, 277 
 
 i'orliiguisf Village, 15') 
 
 rorliign<;sc I'ohsessions, 289 
 
 I'oMssin, 25 
 
 l'o\\<'r of tlic King, 182 
 
 I'ride of I'h-el, 8 
 
 i'rime Albert, 57 
 
 i'rince Levulitenberg, 57 
 
 I'rince of Wales. 9 
 
 I'rince William Henry, 147 
 
 I'riory, 32 
 
 rullnian, M iss, 2 
 
 Pyrenees. I9, 31 
 
 '.>uincy. President, 2or 
 fjuinla das Lagriinas. I12 
 
 K 
 \ Ranio.<:, 2SO 
 Kecojlcts, 90 
 Kci<l, Wliitelaw, 13 
 kepidilic, I'orluguesc, 289 
 Kodney, 96 
 Kodrigo de Bivar, 94 
 Koliia, 92 
 K.isly, 2h^ 
 
 koy:il Ag.iicultural Society, 7 
 Rubens, 25
 
 INDEX. 
 
 313 
 
 Salisbury, I.ady, 7 
 Salishury, Lord, 7, 202 
 San rc<lr(). liaroii, 284 
 San S<.!)astiaii. 19 
 Santarein. (;.|, 1 17 
 Scotlaiul, 63 
 
 Scliavtiaii <lil rininl>o, 23 
 Scliasli.in, San, 57, 72 
 Seville, 227, 236 
 Serpa, Madame de, 184 
 Sherwood, Mrs., 14 
 Sloane. I laTis, 4 
 Sinilli, (Jolihvin, 186 
 Soult. ty2, <)3 
 Soiitliain|ilnii, I 
 S|iaiii. 27 
 
 Spra^ne, Consul, 204 
 Sjiuller, M.. 14 
 .Stanley. <><i 
 
 Stanley, hcan, 2 
 
 Stanton Hero, 8 
 
 Stcinl.oc k, '.'Ss 
 
 Steplieii. Leslie, 305 
 
 Stevens, \i. I'"., 
 
 .St. I'erdinand, 21 
 
 St. I'rancis .Xavier. 54, 74 
 
 St. Irene. 1 17 
 
 St. lanies. Court of, 7S 
 
 St. .MariaV Day, 53 
 
 St. .Martin's .Sunitncr, I18 
 
 Storv, Mrs. 213 
 
 Story. W. \V., 147, iftO, 211 
 
 St. N'ineent. Church <.>f, 61 
 
 St. N'incente de Fora, 8! 
 
 Suffulkb. 8 
 
 r 
 
 Taf^us, 27, 30, 65 
 'l"ant;ier, 70, 221 
 
 Tarifft, 202 
 
 Telles, Dona I.eonor, 109" 
 'I'honmr, 1 16 
 'lintoretto, 25 
 
 Titaiiia, 63 
 Titian, 25 
 
 Torres \edras, 30, 58, 90, 9I 
 ■{'ours, iS 
 
 l lafal^ar. ;/», 202 
 
 U 
 
 University of CoirnI)ra, 105 
 Urraea, 31 
 
 Vftnnulclli, Monsigncur, 61 
 Vasco de (Jania, 30, 65 
 \'<la'-i|ne/, 25 
 \i(lor Lmanucl, 3^ 
 Viiloria, <.>iieeii, <•. 9I 
 Vidi^neria, (id 
 \'illa llor, ContiC de. 95 
 Voisin, Ceneral, 81 
 
 \V 
 
 ( 
 
 Wacckcr Cotter, Haron de, 285 
 Waterloo, 25, i)0, <)i 
 Well'.-ley. Sir Arlluir, 58 
 Weliinj^ton, Duke of, 90 
 Werfen, (■cneral, 81 
 Westminster Abhey, 2 
 \\ hiitier, John li.. 2, l6f) 
 Wilhor. 27, 286 
 Wilson, Jacol), 9 
 Wytkc, Sir i'cter, 69
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 
 Los Angeles 
 This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 
 
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