UBRARY 1 UNIVERSITY OF I CALIFORNIA/ P. & O. S. N. Co., iaa, Leaoenrtali St., THE OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK; A. COMPLETE VADE-MECUM FOB THE OVERLAND TRAVELLER, TO INDIA via EG-YPT. BY CAPTAIN JAMES BARBER, H.C.S. " GLOSTEB Knowest thou the way ? EDGAB Both stile and gate, horsevvay and footway. Poor Tom shall lead thee Take my hand." SHAKSPEBE. SECOND EDITION. LONDOX : WM. H. ALLEN AND Co., 7, IEADENHALL-STEEET. 1850. LONDON: LEWIS AND SON, FINCH-LANE, COHNHILL. CIVIL AND MILITARY SERVICES OF BRITISH INDIA, THIS WORK IS DEDICATED, WITH GRATEFUL EESPECT CORDIAL GOOD WISHES, BY THEIR OBEDIENT HUMBLE SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. 798 INTRODUCTION. THE purpose of this little volume, which I have now the honour to submit to the public, is to combine, in a compact and convenient form, all the information necessary to the prosecution of the journey Overland to India and vice versa. Scarcely a day passes that I am not asked, either personally or by letter, to guide some intending traveller in his arrangements for the trip, and even to advise him as to the preferable routes, the expense, the manner of the voyage, &c. Ignorance on all these points induces inapposite and irrelevant ques- tions ; and it is not unusual to find, at the end of correspondence or a prolonged interview, that the querist is as far from the possession of the knowledge he desired to acquire as he was when he first pre- ferred his application. No clear and satisfactory information can possibly be obtained by a desultory conversation or fragmentary epistles; hence the value of a systematic and comprehensive arrange- ment of all the facts and suggestions pertaining to the subject. VI INTRODUCTION. There is another reason why I should put forth this Guide, it completes, in a measure as far, at least, as the great Overland scheme is in itself com- plete my humble labours in the mighty cause of steam-communication between England and India. For the past fourteen years, I have earnestly and ar- dently advocated the accomplishment of this great object; and, though treated as a vain and visionary enthusiast, when I have presumed to predict the establishment of a semi-monthly intercourse (which I did in 1836 !), my endeavours never relaxed, nor did my hope in the least degree abate. I may be pardoned, therefore, some measure of exultation and self-approval, when, looking back upon the state of the steam question some years ago, and tracing its rise and progress through a thousand difficulties and obstructions, I venture to associate my own zeal and exertions with the triumphant consumma- tion apparent in the scheme now adopted and carried out by the " Peninsular and Oriental Company," and the " East India Company," not only with the Presidencies of India, but also with our Chinese possessions. I laboured long and strenuously ; for I could not persuade myself that British enterprise and public spirit would suffer so obvious a means of extending commerce and civilisation, and of the approximation of our vast Indian empire to the seat of its supreme rule, to be neglected. The great cause has triumphed, INTRODUCTION. Vll some of my wildest dreams have become sober realities, and, while I feel grateful for the past, I am hopeful for the future. Those who take a prominent and active part in promoting great schemes of public utility, where doubt and timidity, and envy and selfish interests are to be combated, must expect to meet with re- buffs and misrepresentations. Of these evils I have had my share, but I have also, from time to time, been unexpectedly cheered on the way by receiving voluntary and public testimonials of unspeakable value, graciously transmitted through various chan- nels. I may be excused for publishing the following letter from the present excellent and much esteemed Bishop of Calcutta, for it displays a truly Christian spirit, it grapples comprehensively with the ques- tion, and corroborates the view taken by the late Lord William Bentinck, who expressed his opinion " that steam-communication with India would be cheaply bought at any price." "BISHOPS PALACE, CALCUTTA, " 22nd of October, 1838. " DEAR SIR, " I should never forgive myself, if I conveyed to you the accompanying resolution without, at the same time, assuring you of the sincere gratitude I feel in the bottom of my heart to a gentleman who has laboured so assiduously, diligently and successfully in one of the greatest cause that ever interested humanity. Vlll INTRODUCTION. " I can truly say, that the consequences, immediate and remote, of steam-communication between India and Europe defy calculation. Such a "wonderful adaptation of science is full of ' the seed of things,' as was said of Lord Bacon's philosophical writings and principles two centuries since. " The invention of printing, and the discovery of the mariners' compass, did not more immediately bear upon the happiness of mankind. The human family is now indeed approximating, and, by inter-communication of knowledge, the times may be expected to draw on, when the illumina- tion of the more prostrate nations will be borrowed from the most remote and exalted. " Allow me, sir, to conclude with saying that, not only as a Chairman, but as a man and a Christian, I have sincere pleasure in transmitting to you the enclosed resolution, and am " Your most obedient, " D. CALCUTTA. " To CAPTAIN JAMES BARBER, " &c., &c., &c." The journey to and from India, by way of Egypt, is now one of comparative ease and pleasure ; and, as it is my intention to publish periodically a revised edition of " The Overland Guide Book/' I shall feel grateful to those persons who, from time to time, will communicate with me on the subject, in order that the best and fullest information gained by experience may be made available to the traveller who prefers this route. I JAMES BARBER. LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. GIBKALTAR - Q ROCK OF DITTO, FROM THE NEUTRAL GROUND 9 MALTA 10 MALTESE PEASANT - 22 ALEXANDRIA - - - - 24 BOULAC - - - - - 28 ASCENT OF THE PYRAMIDS - - 29 DESERT CARRIAGE - . -32 ADEN . 33 MUSSOOLAH BOLT - " 45 NILE BOAT ' ' ' - 72 THE OVERLAND GUIDE-BOOK, THE communication with India by means of steam-vessels, vid the Mediterranean and the Red Sea, can no longei be viewed as an experimental project ; the great increase that has taken place in the number of travellers by this route in a few brief years has distanced all calculation, and we, therefore, place before the public such facts, details and suggestions, connected with what is popularly called " The Overland Route," as shall facilitate the performance of the voyage, from the hour when the resolution to proceed to India or to Europe is taken, down to that which sees the traveller safely deposited at his destination. The sea route round the Cape of Good Hope still has its partisans, in spite of the tedium, extra risk and absence of all objects of interest, which necessarily distinguish such a voyage. False notions of economy, groundless appre- hensions, peculiar ideas of comfort and ancient prejudices, cannot be immediately dissipated, especially when so many encouragements to their continuance exist in the beautiful trading-vessels, which offer accommodation to the public, commanded by gentlemen, whose courtesy and s$avoir vivre are only equalled by their nautical experience. Still in this the comparative infancy of the steam route B THE OVERLAND GUIDE. nine-tenths of those whom fortune may carry to India will prefer the most expeditious manner of proceeding thither ; and it. therefore, becomes in the highest degree important that they should be supplied with the fullest information, in furtherance of their purpose. Under this impression, the following pages have been compiled ; and, as we purpose to confine ourselves to useful and practical detail, the reader is left to seek, in the num- berless volumes that have been published, a more elaborate account of those objects on his route which he may desire to mark with special attention. The following division of our subject appears the most convenient for the object of this publication : INSTRUCTIONS AND HINTS TO PASSENGERS TO ADEN, CEYLON, MADRAS, CALCUTTA, THE STRAITS AND CHINA. To BOMBAY. ROUTES THROUGH FRANCE AND TRIESTE. FROM INDIA, vid SYRA, MALTA, MARSEILLES, OR DIRECT TO SOUTHAMPTON. MISCELLANEOUS. THE PASSAGE TO ADEN, CEYLON, MADRAS, fc CALCUTTA, THE STRAITS AND CHINA. THE " Peninsular and Oriental Company " having con- tracted with Her Majesty's government to carry a mail monthly to the above places, also secure to passengers accommodation along the whole route, at a specific charge, and, by the same opportunity, drop at Malta or Alex- THE PASSAGE TO CEYLON, HABEAS, ETC. 3 andria those persons who do not contemplate proceeding any farther. The steamers remain at Gibraltar six, and at Malta twelve, hours. The charge for a passage varies according to the accom- modation occupied and the distance to be travelled. On reference to Appendix A, the reader will find the fullest information, with a list of the Company's ships and the lines on which they are at present stationed. As berths in all these steamers vary in comfort as well as price, persons who have determined to proceed to India or the intermediate ports, at a particular date, cannot be too early in their application and choice. On these points every information is most readily and courteously given at the office of the " Peninsular and Oriental Com- pany." But if the party going be, from his absence from town or inexperience in business, under the necessity of employing an intermediate agent to secure a passage for him, he would do well to select one thoroughly acquainted not only with the vessels themselves, but with all that appertains to them. As a general rule, we may remark that these steamers are liberally provided with all that passengers can possibly desire. A good table is kept, and the cabins are comfort- ably and conveniently fitted, and sheets, pillow-cases and towels are supplied. It may, however, be as well to give some precise information as to the possible requirements of a passenger ; for a simple statement of what the steamers do provide scarcely involves a specification of the articles not to be found on board. Let it be stated, then, that there is no sort of occasion for bed or table-linen, a sofa, 4 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. wash-hand-stand, looking-glass, boot-hooks, jugs, tumblers, blacking and brushes, or those "overland bedsteads" which we see continually advertised ; but it will be prudent to be provided with a large rug, an air pillow, and a counterpane or resai (wadded coverlet); for it is very pro- bable that, on getting into a warm latitude, the traveller will prefer sleeping on deck, and the steamer's bedding is not allowed to be earned from its place for such pur- poses. The steamers leave Southampton on the 20th of each month provided the luggage be sent down in due time.* Passengers need not leave London till an early morning train on the day of embarkation. Those who intend sleep- ing at Southampton the previous night should bespeak beds. The vessels are moored alongside the quay in the docks, and the hire of a truck from the railway to the steamer is one shilling. Flies also are in constant attend- ance ; in fine weather, however, the distance is an agreeable ten-minutes' walk or less. ? Railway trains from the "\Yaterloo Bridge station to Southampton, in the morning, at 7'15 o'clock, 10'30 o'clock (mail) ; afternoon, 1, 3-45, 5 o'clock (express); evening, 30 minutes past 8 o'clock. Mail Sunday trains, morning, at 9 o'clock ; afternoon, 5 o'clock ; evening, 30 minutes past 8 o'clock. Mail passengers should be at the station at least a quarter of an hour before the trains start. Passengers should embark at Southampton not later than 12-30 P.M. The trunks in which clothes for the voyage may be packed, should be regulated by the calling or capacity of the traveller. If he be a military or medical man, and, therefore, liable to much marching about in India, bullock- * Vide James Barber and Co.'s Circular. - ' INSTRUCTIONS TO PASSENGERS. 5 trunks, specially made at the outfitters, are preferable, as they are permanently useful. Passengers are strongly recommended to adopt trunks or portmanteaus of the following dimensions, viz.: length, 2 feet 3 inches, hreadth, 1 foot 2 inches, depth, 1 foot '2 inches, and to have their names and the port of debarkation distinctly painted on each package. No package or baggage should exceed 80 Ibs. in weight, otherwise it may be delayed in Egypt. The port- manteaus should be of leather, or material not liable to injury or breakage in handling.* The following are the leading points of the " Peninsular and Oriental Company's " regulations : Passengers not proceeding, after taking berths, will forfeit half the passage-money. In case, however, of a passenger being un- avoidably prevented from availing himself of a passage at the period for which it is taken, a transfer of the passage can be effected to a subsequent steamer, on due notice being given, with- out forfeiture of any portion of the deposit paid, and accom- modation will be allotted as similar as circumstances will permit. On either side of the Isthmus, three cwt. of personal baggage is allowed to each first-class passenger ; but 16s. per cwt. is charged by the "Egyptian Transit Company" for conveyance through Egypt on all baggage exceeding two cwt. In the steamers, children, servants and second-class passengers are allowed one cwt. and a half each; 16$. per cwt. being charged by the "Egyptian Transit Company" on all beyond one cwt. A passenger engaging a whole cabin for the entire voyage, is entitled to take in the steamer four and a half cwt. of luggage ; but is subject to the charge in Egypt as above stated. Excess of three cwt. of baggage in the steamer pays freight at the rate of 1 per cwt., in the Alexandria steamers, and 2 per cwt. in the India vessels. * Ladies will find Messrs. Thresher and G-lenny's air-tight cases very useful, even in India. This firm, as general outfitters for the Over- land Eoute, deservedly stand high, and merit every encouragement. 6 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Any luggage beyond that allowed free must be put on board and paid for three days previous to the vessel's departure. Carpet-bags and hat-boxes only will be received on the day of sailing. The Company give notice that, all luggage (save as afore- said) that shall be shipped on the day of departure will be con- sidered as extra, and charged for accordingly. Passengers taking articles of merchandise in their baggage will incur the risk of seizure by the customs' authorities in Egypt. The Company do not hold themselves responsible for deten- tion, damage, or loss of baggage. As the allowance of baggage is on a liberal scale, and the freight of parcels moderate, it is hoped that passengers will not convey parcels or packages belonging to other persons, to the prejudice of the Company's interests. A contrary course will involve risk, delay and difficulty at the Egyptian custom-house. Passengers will be expected to comply strictly with the regula- tions established on board the Company's steamers for the general comfort. In the first instance, a passenger booking from England to Alexandria only, but who afterwards proceeds from Suez to India in this Company's steamers, will be required to pay such an addi- tional amount only as will make up the sum, supposing he had taken his passage right through from his embarkation in Eng- land. Lights to be put out at half-past ten o'clock, after which, no wines, spirits, &c., will be supplied, except in cases of illness, when application is to be made to the purser through the surgeon. No wines, spirits, or beer, are to be supplied elsewhere than in the saloons, except in case of illness. It is to be understood, that a passenger occupying a cabin of two or more berths, on the departure of the vessel, is not (unless he shall have paid an additional sum for its exclusive occupation) to object to the vacant berth being filled up at the intermediate ports, if required. If there be any negligence, inattention, or impropriety, on the part of any of the servants, or any other ground for dissatisfac- tion, passengers are particularly requested to give notice imme- diately to the commander, who has full authority to act under such circumstances; and the Company would also wish to receive intimation of the same by letter, addressed to the secretary. INSTRUCTIONS TO PASSENGERS. Although there is positively no restriction as to the quantity of a passenger's luggage, the excess of that allowed being paid for, still it is obvious that when a hundred persons are travelling with the speed of a mail through Egypt, every extra-package becomes an incum- brance, if not a positive nuisance; for it renders the timely arrival of those absolutely required very doubtful. It is, therefore, advisable that passengers should confine themselves strictly to the quantity of luggage necessary for the trip, sending so much as they may wish to have in India by the long sea route a month or two previous to their departure. The adoption of this course will spare them much annoyance and expense on the journey. As by the Company's regulation no trunks, boxes or port- manteaus are allowed in the cabins of their steamers, pas- sengers should provide themselves with a good-sized leather or carpet-bag, in which should be packed all the clothes, &c., required for immediate use ; and this bag may be kept in the cabin and replenished from time to time from the trunks, to which the passengers have access every other day. This bag should be taken on board with the pas- senger ; but the trunks and other baggage should be put on board two or three days before sailing. We have now fairly started with our passengers from Southampton. The steamer boils and bubbles on her course, and in five days runs to Gibraltar, sighting the Spanish and Portuguese coasts. The passengers soon con- quer the annoyance of sea-sickness ; new acquaintance- ships are rapidly formed ; employments and pastimes arranged, and, by the time "the rock" is reached, the real pleasures of the trip begin to be fairly appreciated. 8 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. GIBRALTAR. From the title so often given to this plea- sant little port and garrison " the Rock of Gibraltar," the traveller expects to find a barren, inoccupable mass, as inhospitable to its friendly visitors as it was unapproach- able to our foes ; instead of this, the eye, after entering the bay, is greeted with the sight of a luxuriant vegetation, distributed into gardens, groves and plantations. After the visit of the pratique officer, boats approach the newly- arrived vessel, to take on shore any passenger who may be disposed to land for a few hours. The club-house and Griffith's Hotel offer temporary accommodations, and to one or the other the traveller may betake himself. He soon, however, is tempted, by the brilliancy of the sky and the warmth of the temperature, to wander abroad, and inspect the new scene that presents itself. The Com- mercial Square, formerly the Grand Parade, offers the first object of attraction. The sales by auction carried on here all day, draw together a motley population, whose costumes and physiognomy alone are a study for the stranger. Greeks, Turks, Jews, Arabs, &c., mingle together in pic- turesque confusion. The streets of Gibraltar are narrow, the houses low, irregular and ill-fashioned ; yet are there a few public buildings worthy of a passing notice. The Exchange, erected during the government of Sir George Don, the Catholic church of St Mary, the court-house, the Moorish castle, within which are some remarkable excava- tions, the residence of the governor (which was formerly a convent), the Protestant church, the garrison and library, are the principal edifices. Gibraltar being but five miles long, the whole place may be seen, on horseback or in carriages, easily obtainable, in a very brief space. Proceeding southward, the visitor stops for a moment at South Port, where, over the gate, he sees the arms of the Emperor Charles V. richly embla- GIBRALTAR. 9 zoned, supported by those of Philip II. Not far from this, are the Alameda, public walks and grounds tastefully laid out. In the centre of the gardens is a statue harpooning a fish, which was formerly the figure-head of a Spanish vessel taken at Trafalgar, and near this, a column bearing a bronze bust of the Duke of Wellington. Leaving the walks, the next object of interest is San Michaels Cave, a great natural curiosity. The whole rock THE ROCK, FROM THE NEUTRAL GROUND. (Calpe) is hollowed out and perforated by caves. The fan- tastic forms assumed by the stalactites give these recesses the appearance of work done by ingenious human hands. Martin's Cave, not far from San Michaels, corresponds in character with, but is smaller in dimensions than, the latter. The wild monkeys that inhabit the place afford much en- tertainment by their freaks. Extending the ride to Wind- mill Hill, we reach the Governor s cottage, built by General Fox as a summer residence. It is pleasantly situated close to the sea. From this the ride may be extended to Europa B 5 10 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Point, Rosia, in the Mcinity of which is the Naval Hospital, capable of holding 400 patients. From Rosia along the whole range of the western side to Sand Port is a continu- ation of works, batteries and bastions. As the period of the steamer's detention (six hours) will scarcely enable the visitor to see more than the above, we do not think it necessary to extend our description. We will merely add, as a guide to those who are inclined to make purchases on shore, that accounts are kept in dollars, reals, &c., but English weights and measures are in use. After quitting Gibraltar, steaming along the coast of Algiers, you soon reach the famed island of Malta, where the outward-bound coming free from the imputations of plague, which cover the homeward passenger, are at liberty at once to go on shore and see the " lions" of the place. If the period chosen by the traveller for his voyage should admit of his reaching Malta between November and April, he will be enabled to regale on oranges, for which fruit the island is much celebrated. Other fruits, such as straw- berries, figs, pomegranates, grapes, apples, pears, peaches, nectarines, apricots, plums, melons and prickly pears, are likewise to be had then. The climate of Malta is agreeable enough to tempt the visitor to prolong his stay, and, indeed, in the instance of pulmonary and other complaints, the atmosphere has often been found most serviceable. Its salubrity may be judged of from the fact of the range of the thermometer being remarkably equable; seldom falling be- low 50 in the month of January, or rising above 88 during the summer months. The most remarkable edifices in Malta are the churches and the Albergas; which latter are now converted into MALTA. 1 1 public offices or other establishments of a useful nature. Their exterior denotes the end of their construction and the various sections of Knights of St. John, under whose auspices and for whose purposes they were raised. . These Albergas are now appropriated to government offices ; one is occupied by the Malta Union Club, two others as courts of law, a fourth as the Civil Arsenal and Government Printing Office. The Auberge (or Alberga) de Castile is occupied by the officers of the English garrison ; the Commissary- General tenants the Auberge de France and so on. The church of St. John holds the first rank among the numerous churches and convents of Malta. The interior is of an oblong form ; the uppermost part, which forms the choir, is ornamented with an admirable piece of sculp- ture in white marble, on a raised base, representing the baptism of Christ by St. John, in two figures as large as life. The semicircular roof which covers the nave is adorned with paintings illustrative of the life of the above- mentioned apostle. The pavement is composed of sepul- chral slabs worked in mosaic with various-coloured marble ; many of them contain jasper, agate, and other precious stones, the cost of which must have been very great. These cover chiefly the graves of the knights and other servants of the order. The grand altar, which stands at the uppermost part of the nave, is very sumptuous, and deserves notice, on account of the various-coloured marble and other valuable stones of which it is constructed. The chapels of the different languages of the order, which run parallel with the nave, form the two aisles, and are very splendidly decorated. The roofs are constructed in the shape of a dome in the interior, and are profusely carved with different ornaments in alto-relievo, as also are the 12 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. walls. The whole was gilded during the reigns of Rafael and Nicolas Cotoner, as appears from an inscription over the entrance on the west side of the building. The arches of these chapels correspond on both sides, and leave their interior quite exposed to view, as you pass down the nave. The second arch covers the chapel of the Portuguese knights. Over the altar is a drawing of St. James ; and on the side-walls are two other paintings, representing some traditionary scenes in the life of that apostle. Besides the church already mentioned, there are three others in the city, which belong to the Government : viz., the Church of the Jesuits in Strada Mercanti, Di Liesse on the Marina, and St. Rocco in Strada St. Ursola. The church of Di Liesse belonged to the Knights of France. The walls of this building are adorned with gifts devoted to the Virgin; the fulfilment of vows made in time of affliction, in order to obtain her commiseration. The boatmen hold this church in peculiar veneration. The two parish churches of the city are those of St. Do- menico and St. Paolo ; the former is connected with a monastery of Dominican friars ; the latter is a collegiate church, situated in the street of the same name. The other monkish orders are those of the Augustinians, Carmelites, Franciscans, and the Minori Osservanti, or Reformed Fran- ciscans, all of which have churches connected with their respective convents. Besides these, there are two large nunneries, one of Ursoline and the other of Sta. Catarina nuns ; but the rage for this species of seclusion has very much subsided in Valetta The former establishment is nearly empty, and the latter is receiving but very few addi- tions. Two other churches in the city, one dedicated to Sta. Lucia and the other called Delle Anirne (of the Souls in Purgatory), belong to the public. The Greek Catholics MALTA. 13 have also a small chapel, dedicated to Sta. Maria, in Strada Vescovo. By far the finest specimen of modern architec- ture is the Protestant church, built at the charge of Queen Adelaide, who sojourned for a short time at Malta. Next to the churches are the Military Hospital, the Monte di Pieta, the Government University, the public and garrison libraries (the building containing these being one of the finest specimens of architecture in the whole town), the Castellaria, the theatre and the Banco del Guirati. There are several antiquities in the public library, together with periodicals and newspapers. The Indian files received at this library will enable the outward-bound passenger to obtain later information of the state of affairs abroad, than he might have had when leaving England. The traveller who sojourns a few hours only in Malta, after walking in the streets of Valetta, or looking through the imposing defences which surround it on every side, over the apparently arid or sun-burnt undulations of the island, frequently abandons all further interest in the spot singular by nature and art arid reposes quietly on the information of some writer possessing little more actual knowledge of the island, but who may have furnished his readers with some highly-coloured descriptions of its early history, or dilated on the chivalrous bearing of its late masters, the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem. Without wading through these literary labours to discover " a grain of millet in a bushel of chaff," we merely desire to intro- duce to the sojourner an agreeable mode of spending a few leisure hours in visiting other portions of the island. By reference to a map, he will find little difficulty in wend- ing his way to any part of it ; he may pass from one ex- tremity to the other without a chance of molestation or interruption, other than the occasional application for alms ; 14 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. for Malta has professioual and other beggars in abundance, the result of an overwhelming population in proportion to the size and resources of the island and the thoughtlessness of marriages, contracted frequently without a prospect of supporting a family. Passing out at Porte Pieale the gateway at the top of the principal street of Valetta and crossing the draw- bridge, the stupendous defences of the city become ap- parent deep ditches every approach enfiladed, or covered by bastions surmounted with bristling cannon. From this portion of the w r orks the road opens on the front of the public garden;* a narrow promenade, of considerable ex- tent, confined between stone walls, on the esplanade be- tween Valetta and the extensive suburb of Floriana, around which are thrown the outer defences of the city, extended like the former, from the great harbour on the east to the quarantine harbour on the west. Holding on the main road, to the left of the garden gate, we pass through Floriana, the gate of St. Anna (the inner gate of this line of defence), and by Porte des Bombes, reach the glacis of the works, and here commences the country of the island of Malta. Three main roads conduct to the different villages or casals, some twenty-three in number, besides the hamlets of Pieta, Sliema, San Guiliana and Casal Paola. The road to the right (leading to the western end of the island), keeping the foot of the glacis, opens on the Pieta, one of * During the governorship of Sir Alex. Ball, public gardens for the accommodation or pleasure of the inhabitants of the various "casals" were formed, but fell into disuse, and remain a trifling memorial of a desire to inculcate good and friendly feelings in all classes, and has been responded to by these places being totally neglected for public use. MALTA. 15 the most imposing spots in Malta, with a pretty extensive row of houses, generally good, extending for about a mile on the bank of the quarantine harbour. At about a mile farther on is the populous and large casal of Bircharcara, containing some five or six thousand inhabitants. From the immediate extremity of the Pieta (without proceeding on to Bircharcara), a road to the right, over a small stream, leads to Sliema and San Guiliana, the resort of those who pursue sea-bathing and seek a summer residence in the countiy, and containing many good houses. Passing through the last-mentioned hamlet, a road (inclining to the left) leads down to Casal Bircharcara, and a carnage may go over the whole ground safely. From the easteni or extreme end from the church of Bircharcara, there are two roads, that to the west, of some two miles extent, to Nasciar, and hence to the right to Casal Gargur, but a casal of no particular interest and road indifferent; after passing by the front of the church, or rather round the greater portion of it, a road to the left conducts to San Paul's Bay, where St. Paul is said to have been ship- wrecked. The view from the high ground, after passing Nasciar, and overlooking a line of defence against the approach of an enemy, on this otherwise apparently natural barrier, is, perhaps, one of the best and most striking in the island, embracing the western extremity even to the island of Gozo, with St. Paul's Bay and its tower quietly reposing in the valley. The distance to St. Paul's Bay from Valetta is about eight miles, and the road good even for carriages.- About four miles farther on from St. Paul's * A calesse, the common carriage of Malta, a sort of Brobdignag imitation of a Dutch toy, can travel anywhere ; but those who wish to see the country must adopt some other conveyance. Fortu- nately, under the government of Lieut. -General Sir F. Bouverie, such attention was paid the roads in the island a source of advan- tage to the population, in every point of view, and the public in 16 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Bay, and presenting moie hill and dale than may be found in the general features of the island, you arrive at Melleha, \vhere the devotees of both sexes resort. There is nothing particularly interesting in this spot, encircled by deep ravines and sterile rock ; but, with some gardens in its vicinity, stands a small church (pretty 'liberally stored with votive offerings), with a court-yard, surrounded by small cells or chambers, to which the devout repair, and occupy, as choice, occasion or their vow may dictate. Beyond this point, some four miles leads to Mafra, the usual ferry to Gozo; but the only carriage that could undertake this portion of the road must be a calesse deep sand from the Bay of Melleha and a road intersected by rock being the means of approach. Returning back to Nasciar, and coming in front of the church, a street leads on to the right to the casal of Musta, having nothing remarkable in it but a colossal church (encircling the old village church), which has been some years in the course of building, and, in respect to the progress had in its construction, may never be finished.* Passing through this casal (but avoiding the turning to the right over a well- constructed bridge, crossing one of the numerous ravines in the island, for that would only lead to an uninteresting part of the island, that in olden times was designated on the maps " desert," and is now almost without population), along a narrow .road or general that where, some twenty years ago or less, only two or three carriages on four wheels, the property of private individuals, could be found, they are now in pretty general use, and may be had on hire. * Casal Musta was singularly enough selected, by the commis- sioners of inquiry sent out to Malta in 1837, in reporting on the liberty of the press and the adoption of a newspaper that it con- tained upwards of 5,000 inhabitants, of whom not more than 50 could read ! MALTA. 1 7 lane, of trifling extent, across a rivulet, and on a road leading directly to the western point of the Binzamma, the most elevated and conspicuous portion of the island, the road is again covered by a line of defence ; beyond this, it winds round the Binzamma, and, taking the turn to the left, one of the natural curiosities of the island, as it is pointed out, will be found in a nest of caves called " Ancient Tombs," now inhabited by some poor families employed in agriculture in the vicinity.* An indifferent road from * This sketch, is intended simply as a guide to the superficial observer, on a few hours' detention in the island, and in no way with a view to geological disquisition. However, without any speculative theories, regarding the origin and present state of Malta whether it arose by some convulsive throe from the ocean which surrounds it, or that the Mediterranean Sea, from remote causes, has lost its former elevation, being now found considerably below the level of the Ked Sea, it may be mentioned, without dread of refutation, that these caverns, like numerous others in the island, show the water line at the period of their formation, as those under the black rock and the southern face especially. A recent writer on the statistics, &c., of the island of Malta and its dependencies, who visited Yaletta, and knew little of Malta, informs his readers, that Malta is furrowed with what he designates valleys from S.W. to N.E. following out the assertions of another and former resident in Malta that the course of the various ravines was from west to east, as if to render subservient to geological theories, the mode or order in which Malta must have been formed 5 yet the slightest observation (which neither had exercised) proves these ravines to embrace each of the cardinal, and, perhaps, not less the subsidiary, points of the compass. In like manner, this writer on the statistics states very boldly that the island of Gozo has villages but no town ; Rubatto has its cathedral, numerous churches, religious establish- ments, with its imposing citadel for defence, occupying considerable extent of ground, and with a population exceeding 7,000 souls, and to which the late governor, Sir F. Bouverie, added an aqueduct, for a more certain supply of water. Mr. Martin never visited G-ozo, and this, like other portions of his work, is merely gathered from report. 18 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. this point leads to Citta Vecchia ; but, as it possesses no interest, and can be traversed only by the equestrian, we turn back to Casal Musta ; immediately, therefore, in front of the new church, is the street or road leading, on the left, to Casal Sia (San Antonio, with its gardens, of which we will speak hereafter), through this casal and Casal Bazau, between which the line of demarkation is scarcely apparent to the stranger, we come back to Bircharcara (at the point where the road turned off to Nasciar, and, either by ascend- ing to the main road, between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, diverging to the right, or passing through Bircharcara and the Pieta, we return to Valetta. On the other hand, leaving Musta, as before directed, and inclining to the right, a road leads to Citta Vecchia, the great point of attraction to the generality of travellers who visit Malta. But of that hereafter. The centre and principal road in Malta, proceeding as before from Porte des Bombes, between Valetta and Citta Vecchia, is a spacious and well-kept road (like all others in the island), without turnpike trusts or imposts on the traveller. To the archway of the aqueduct, a distance of two miles, it may be considered the great suburb of a rich city. Here are various houses of noble aspect on the road, near the archway of the aqueduct one called " the Lions" from two effigies in stone of that sovereign of the forest, placed over the entrance ; this the late governor, Sir F. Bouverie, selected as his country-house, in preference to the more imposing aud regal residence of St. Antonio. From the archway of the aqueduct (under which passes the main road to Citta Vecchia) the view now on either side, excepting only some casals in the distance, presents barren and uninteresting fields, so surrounded and inter- sected by stone walls, that it appears difficult to determine MALTA. 19 to what end these enclosures were erected, except before the opening of spring, when the lucerne with its dark green leaves and beautiful red flower over-topping the walls, convinces the passenger of the fertility of the soil. At about the fourth or fifth mile from Valetta, a road to the right leads to Santa Louisa and the gardens, unlike any other place in Malta. In the style and taste of the day, in which it was formed by the Grand Master, here are well-paved walks, terraces and flights of steps, with ponds or reservoirs, and water-works, on a small scale art subduing nature, but apparently ap- propriately designed for its position. This has ever been accessible to strangers, either by a ticket of admission from the military secretary or aide-de-camp; and, under some governorships, even without that precaution. Leaving San Antonia and regaining the main road, you pass through Casal Attard, a small casal with some good houses in it, but of gloomy appearance as compared with other casals. From hence all is barren to the eye, until in the imme- diate neighbourhood of Citta Vecchia, where the fields ap- pear more natural and to greater advantage. As you ascend the hill, you will find more guides from the idlers of the place, probably, than guests, who insist on giving their assistance where it is little required. Within the citadel is the cathedral, a very handsome church ; without, is the suburb, properly Eabbato; you are shown the cave where St. Paul is said to have resided, a poor compliment to the hospitality of the inhabitants, for a more wretched place can scarcely be conceived. The church over this cave is like most of the churches of the island. Here also you are shown the catacombs, as these caverns are called ; you descend by a flight of rude steps, but, were they well ex- plored, an outlet on the level would, doubtless, be found, to determine their origin, like others of a similar character. Tradition offers many tales concerning them; but it may be 20 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. left to conjecture, whether they were the habitation of saints, or the retreat of the peaceful inhabitants of the island, from the predatory visits of their Arab neighbours. To the right of Citta Vecchia, an indifferent road of three or four miles leads to some gardens. Imtaklip is of no other particular interest than an occasional resort of parties from Valetta for a pic-nic. To the left, however, a good road, after passing a large convent, and still inclining to the left, is the Castle or Palace Verdali, of imposing appearance, but tenantless, and going to decay; below, in the valley, is the Boschetta, covered with pretty extensive groves of orange trees, the only truly agreeable retreat in the island, and almost daily resorted to by pleasure parties. There is a very small but uninteresting casal to the right of the road to the Boschetta. The return to Valetta, in the most direct way, may be made by the same road ; otherwise, after ascending the hill from the Boschetta, as far on the road as the Palace Ver- dale, a road branches off to the right, leading through the Casal Seggui ; hence to Zettug, one of the largest and most populous in the island ; and, descending the hill by a good road on the way to Casal Curmi, you have an extensive view of the surrounding country, embracing Valetta, the harbour, &c., in the distance. Casal Curmi, a large casal situated in the valley, has nothing particular to recommend it to the notice of the traveller ; passing to the left through it, you ascend the hill to the arch of the aqueduct, and by the main road enter Valetta. Starting as before from Porte des Bombes, at a short dis- tance on the main road, a road branches off to the left, and winds round the head of the great harbour ; hold the road to the right ; after passing the fishermen's huts, the road MALTA. 21 leads through the Marsa a tract, to the superficial observer, the most cultivated in Malta; ascend the hill and Casal Luca, and about a mile after passing through the casal, at a small chapel, two roads branch off, the one to the right to Casal Michabiba; hence to Casal Creude, in the immediate neighbourhood of which is to be seen Macluba, the land- slip, or, in whatever other way it may be designated ; and, as- cending the hill from the chapel close by, and bearing away to the right, you arrive at some mile and a half distance, at the rude remains of a Phoenician temple, recently ex- plored. Returning back to Crendi, and at about the middle of the casal, a road to the right leads to Casal Zurrico, stand- ing out rather conspicuously, from its site and size (the road to the left from the small chapel, on the road from Casal Luca, mentioned before, is the direct road from Valetta to Casal Chercof, a small village, and Casal Zurrico); passing out of Casal Zurrico, close by the eastern side of the church (the road to the left, in front of the church, leads to Casal Luca, mentioned before), you arrive at Casal Gudia ; at the end nearest Valetta is a substantial mansion, with well- walled grounds, a fanciful tower, &c. During the blockade, when the French were in possession of Valetta, this was the head-quarters of General Graham, afterwards Lord Lynedock, commanding the British Forces. A windmill at the corner of the mansion marks two roads ; that to the right leading through Casal Ascheach to Casal Zeitun: the latter one of the best casals in the island. The procession of St. Gregorico, on Easter Wednesday, at which the greater portion of the population of the island attends, terminates at this casal : one other casal in this direction, Casal Zalbar, a short distance from the Cottonnera lines, which encircle or cover the three cities, is somewhat out of the line of march, and had better be visited in connection with the Government works on the opposite side of the great harbour, including the three cities, and the Cottonnera lines, from 22 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. which this casal is a trifling distance. We, therefore, turn down the street immediately facing the grand entrance to the Church of Zeitun, containing numerous excellent houses, and, following a good road of brief extent, arrive at Casal Tarscien, from thence onwards to the hamlet of Casal Bala, denominated by the English the " Deserted Village;" turn- ing to the left, at the end nearest Valetta, and passing by the/roof the new prison, a good road leads down and communicates with the road first taken, on the Avay to A MALTESE PEASANT. Casal Luca ; here the traveller may either enter Valetta by Porte des Bombes, or, holding on the great harbour, pass MALTA. 23 along the Marina, and so enter Valetta by the ordinary road on landing at Malta. The traveller may refer to the GUIDE BOOK at Malta for other places considered of importance; but as they are re- mote, like the Cave of Ben Isan, &c., their route is omitted here. There has been no attempt to describe places, or, indeed, distances, accurately ; but, with the exception of the first route to Matra, the most remote casals are not more than six or seven miles at the utmost from Valetta, and a reference to the map at Malta will show the position and bearing of others less remote. As a hint to travellers, especially those on horseback, who may consider this brief sketch a sufficient guide for an excursion, we may mention that they will find in every casal some idlers, who will insist on knowing where they are going better than themselves, and will mislead accord- ingly, by directing strangers to the only two points within the sphere of their knowledge or comprehension Valetta or Citta Vecchia. Between Malta and Alexandria there is no point of interest worthy of any notice ; in fact, land is seldom sighted during the four days' trip. THE OVERLAND GUIDE. ALEXANDRIA. We now arrive at this port. ALEXANDRIA. For the guidance of the traveller in Egypt, we cannot give better directions than are supplied in the annexed letter from Mr. Davidson, the representative of the " Penin- sular and Oriental Company," a gentleman, whose courtesy, kindness and attention to all travellers passing through that country are universally admitted. Mr. Davidson repairs on board immediately the vessel arrives at Alexan- dria, and superintends all the arrangements for the whole journey thence to Suez. He writes thus : " The carpet-bag, containing the traveller's necessaries for three days in Egypt, he should keep charge of, and take to the hotel on arrival in the omnibus, or, if he ride, make the donkey-boy carry it with him, and the same on leaving the hotel for the boat. The other luggage he must leave, after seeing it on the steamer's deck, to be landed and transported in the luggage-lighter alongside, in charge of the transit-clerk, to whom he should hand a list of the ALEXAKDKIA. 25 same. These he will, perhaps, hear or see nothing of until he reaches Cairo, where they are exposed, before dispatched to Suez, for recognition, in the British Hotel yard. It is understood that the passenger sees to his carpet-bag, on changing boats at Atfeh and on arrival at Cairo, where it is given up and sent on camels, with the other luggage, after he has taken out the necessary articles* for use in crossing the desert, which are expected not to exceed five pounds' weight to each passenger in the carriage. "Landing at Alexandria, the passenger will find three good hotels, situated in the grand square, about two miles from Mahoram Bey's, that part of the Mahmoudie canal where the passengers embark on board commodious boats, to be towed up to Atfeh (a distance of forty-eight miles) by powerful steam-tugs. The names of the hotels are " Hotel de 1'Europe," "d'Orient" and "de Suisse." The rates of charges at all are piastres forty, or 8s. per diem, for board and lodging, exclusive of wines, beer and spirits. Those who prefer living a la Francaise, will give a prefer- ence to the Hotel d'Orient. At the other hotels the style of entertainment is more English. " The extra charge, at 16s. the 112 Ibs., for over- weight luggage (two cwt. being allowed to first and one cwt. to second-class passengers) is collected at the transit-office at Cairo, on exchanging tickets, and takes place there, in order to check the passengers proceeding beyond or re- maining at this station. " At Suez the luggage is embarked in the boat which takes the passenger off; and here he should see it again." * "We recommend ladies to provide themselves with a basket having a cross handle and two flaps, as the most convenient to hold their desert requirements. C 26 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. As the transition from heat to cold in crossing the desert is great, the range of the temperature varying from 94 in the shade at noonday to 72 at night, in the summer months, it is indispensable that travellers should be pro- vided with warm clothing; and too great precaution cannot be taken to avoid exposure to the night air. Taking this matter into consideration, we subjoin a thermometrical register recently kept in Egypt, which may be of service alike to the passing traveller and those who purpose sojourning for awhile in that country. As the passage through Egypt en route to India differs but little, whether the traveller be bound to Calcutta or Bombay, we add to this division of our subject a short account of the only portion of the journey which can truly be called " Overland." STAY AT ALEXANDRIA. A delay of about three to four hours occurs at Alexandria, in examining the luggage at the custom-house and loading the boats with it. During this time the traveller may, if so disposed, pay a visit to Cleopatra's Needle, Pompey's Pillar, and the Pacha's palace and arsenal; all of which may easily be reached on donkeys or in carriages in less than two hours, and at a very trifling cost. The boats being ready, the whole party again assemble, and, embarking at the Mahmoudie canal, reach Atfeh in about ten hours, where the passengers are trans-shipped to the Nile steamers, and perform the trip to Cairo, 120 miles, in 16 or 20 hours, according to the depth of water in the Nile. The boat stops at Boulac, two miles distant from Cairo, to which place some walk, whilst others ride ; carriages, horses and donkeys being prepared, and in ALEXANDRIA. 11 -= = 11 if ranunuiui ouiaa^x^ uinunx-Bin araajixa TIBOUI JO 9DU9a9JJIQ[ uoou iv 9jnjt?jgdra9j WY g V* 9.injBJ9dra9i UB9H ammiuTra u^gpf W5VppOplpPPPppP CO CO t> tr* 00 00 00 00 00 00 t"* CO THE OVERLAND GUIDE. waiting. There are several hotels in Cairo, the "British,"' "Oriental," and "English," the character and accommo- ' 'V dation of each of which will be most accurately learned on reference to Mr. Davidson, to whom we have previously alluded. The luggage is conveyed to Suez on dromedaries, and, as these animals travel slowly, those who do not desire to proceed to Suez by the first division of carriages across the desert, will have sufficient time to visit the lions of Cairo, which consist of the citadel, the palace, the mint, the petrified forest, the Rhoda garden (chiefly botanical), the Pyramids of Gizeh, and the Pacha's palace and gardens at Shubra; or they may indulge in a bath, a luxury thus described in an article in the Asiatic Journal, by Mr. Stocqueler: " A bath a Cairo, after a voyage, is an agrcmen which few will deny themselves. It is neither as elaborate nor as effective an affair as a Persian bath, but, like Mercutio's CAIRO. *1 wound, ; it will do.' The soft coir, or fibrous matter, which is used instead of flannel or the hair-glove, is not by any means as efficacious as the latter in removing the sodden matter, or papier mache, which covers the human cuticle. Then there is neither shampooing, nor joint-cracking, nor mustachio-dyeing ; nevertheless, it is pleasant to get into hot water after a month's exclusion from the indulgence, even though some of the accessories to the hummaum be wanting." Of the manner in which the ascent of the Pyramids is made, the following sketch furnishes an accurate descrip- tion : .AUDEU.S THE ASCENT OF THE PYRAMIDS. A recent writer, describing this laborious operation, speaks of it thus: " It is advisable, if bent on mounting 30 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. to the summit, to disencumber yourself of all but your shirt and a pair of loose trousers; for the journey upwards must be taken rapidly, and cannot easily be accomplished with warm and tight clothing. A couple of Arabs leap on to the stones immediately above you, and offer you each a hand, while a third follows, to give you an impetus from behind, and catch you, in case of a slip. Up you go, panting and toiling, step after step (each three feet in height) and stop- ping occasionally to take breath, and receive the cheering congratulations of your rude guides good, good, Inglese, lerry good! and then, with an impatient grin and extended hand, ' Baksheesh ! ' " We now come to the Overland part of the journey ; viz., from CAIRO TO SUEZ.* THE distance (ordinarily accomplished in about twenty hours, including stoppages) from Cairo to Suez is eighty- * The following extract from the last report of the Peninsular and Oriental Company,, may not be without interest to our readers showing, as it does, that efforts have recently been made to im- prove the desert- transit. We should premise, that Sir John Pirie proceeded to Egypt as the bearer of an address to the new Yiceroy. " His Highness the Pacha received Sir John with marked dis- tinction and courtesy, and readily acquiesced in every suggestion made to him for the improvement of the transit ; and His Highness was moreover pleased to declare, that the increased expense con- sequent thereupon would be of secondary consideration to the per- fecting the transit through his country. " His Highness has authorised the directors to order for his account one additional steam-vessel for the Nile, to be fitted with all the improved accommodation which experience suggests; also two paddle-wheel steamers for the Mahmoudie Canal. These canal boats will be devoted to the conveyance of passengers only, CAIRO TO SUEZ. 31 four miles, and along the route through the desert there are seven station-houses. These station-houses are num- bered from 1 to 7, and contain the following accommo- dation : No. 1. Nine miles from Cairo, stabling and a resting- room. No. 2. Twenty miles from Cairo, contains two public rooms (one for ladies, and the other for gentlemen), two private rooms, and a servants' room. No. 3. Thirty miles from Cairo, stabling for relays of horses, with one resting-room. No. 4. Forty-one miles from Cairo, the centre station, and the baggage will be conveyed in future by track-boats. These two steamers will be a most important addition and improvement to the canal transit, which has hitherto been considered the most in- convenient part of the journey ; and they will accordingly be fitted in the most commodious manner, and sent out with the utmost dispatch. " A small steamer, now building at Boulac, will shortly be placed at Suez, for the embarkation and landing of passengers and baggage from the India steamers, which will be productive of great comfort and convenience. " A considerable improvement has already been effected in the landing and embarkation of passengers and baggage at Alexandria ; and commodious storehouses have also been erected there, and at the Mahmoudie Canal. " The occasional difficulties and delays at Atfeh will, in future, be avoided, by the intended erection of a jetty and landing-place there ; but, in most cases, the new canal steamers will pass through the locks, and go alongside the Nile steamers, and the change from one to the other will thus be easily and conveniently effected. The navigation of the canal is to be improved by deepening, for which object, three dredging machines are now in operation." O5i THE OVERLAND GUIDE. contains a large saloon, a ladies' room, servants' room, kitchen, a number of commodious bed-chambers, large water- tank, stabling, &c. Here, also, will be found, Liberally pro- vided, those " creature comforts," which so essentially cheer and sustain the traveller on his way. Ladies, how- ever, would do well to take in their basket, on leaving the steamer, a bottle of good water. No. 5. Thirty miles from Suez, stabling and a resting room. No. 6. Twenty miles from Suez, two public rooms, private rooms, and servants' rooms. The same as No. 2. No. 7. Nine miles from Suez, stabling and resting-room. The whole distance is traversed without inconvenience, DESERT CARRIAGE. ADEN. 33 in carriages, on horseback, on chairs, or on donkeys ; the latter a very superior animal to those in this country. The Egyptian ass is easy in his pace, capable of great fatigue, and, it is said, will perform the whole distance with but little provender. Travellers now embark on board the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamer, and, as soon as the luggage has been shipped, and every other arrangement made, the anchor is weighed, and the steamer starts for Aden. Be- yond certain historical associations, the Red Sea presents little that can interest the traveller in his brief and ex- peditious trip. The shores are dreary and barren, and are only agreeable to the eye of the landsman, because they present a somewhat less monotonous scene than the expanse of "blue above and blue below, "which distinguishes the ocean in parts remote from land. ADEN, which was formerly called "Portus Romanicus,"is a town of the Yemen, which, from its position, and now, on account of its recent occupation by the English, promises to become a commercial and military station of great import- ance. The town is built on the crater of an exhausted vol- cano, and is situate at the extremity of a small peninsula, formed of volcanic matter, and attached to the continent solely by a low neck of land from 500 to 600 yards wide, and which might be easily isolated by a canal. The harbour is a magnificent basin, capable of containing an immense fleet; and is entered by a narrow passage between two other craters. It would be easy to establish defensive works on the rocks, which would place the fort in safety against any attack. One redoubt has been already raised, as a security against the Arabs, ever ready to attack the English. From this point to the gate of the town has been traced a road of about a league in length, by which the defile is reached 34 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. that forms the entrance to Aden. This defile is being for- tified with a gate, evidently constructed to resist other attacks than those of the Arabs, and is about 100 yards long, and four or five wide ; it is cut out of a rock which stands 150 yards above the level of the sea. A formidable battery, commanding the entrance, is in process of being erected above the rock on the left of the defile. A covered way, with an arch thrown from one rock to another, unites the system of defence which the batteries on the summit of the rocks on the left will complete. In despite of sickness and desolation, the population of Aden has greatly augmented in a short space of time. When first occupied, the population did not exceed 4,000 ; it is now upwards of 30,000 ; and every morning at day- break 50 to 200 camels may be seen coming into the town, laden with the produce of the interior, provisions, vege- tables, &c., to console and comfort the otherwise benighted occupants of this extinguished crater. The fact is, the security to property afforded by a residence within the limits of British possession and influence, has contributed, in no inconsiderable degree, to this outward sign of pro- sperity. An hotel on the sea-shore, kept by some enterprising Parsees from Bombay, and a great number of donkeys, attended by their drivers or proprietors (little woolly- headed urchins), offer to the passenger who may go ashore, the contrast of a dinner of fish and a ride to the town and cantonment of Aden. Beyond these, the attractions of the place may be represented by a cipher. At Aden the steamer takes in a supply of coal, and then starts for Ceylon ; which island she reaches in ten days, and where she remains but for a few hours. Here will be found ADEN TO CEYLOX. 35 a branch steamer ready to start for China ; and, to the tra- veller thenceward, we can promise that this portion of the journey, touching at Penang and Singapore, en route, will surpass in picturesque and romantic sceneiy all that his eye has hitherto beheld we do not mean to say that, in many parts of Europe or America, there are not isolated spots equally beautiful and sublime : but, whether, for a continuous sea-journey of so many miles, for the most part. in water as smooth as a " milk pan," it can be equalled? certainly, it cannot be surpassed. The voyage from Ceylon to Penang is commonly made in six days, the steamer stopping there six hours ; that to Singapore in three days, with a stay of twenty-four hours; and, finally, to Hong Kong, in another six days. Four days under steam from Ceylon carry us to Madras, where, after another supply of fuel, we proceed to Calcutta, occupying four days in the trip ; and there terminates our interesting journey. We have given a brief description of the three last-named places in the section appropriated to the details of the homeward trip, and therefore consider it unnecessary to offer any remarks here. 36 THL OVERLAND GUIDE. TO BOMBAY. THE responsibility of this journey is divided, being firstly in the hands of the Peninsular and Oriental Company ; secondly, of the Egyptian Oriental Transit Company ; and, lastly, of the East India Company. Forethought and pre- caution are therefore recommended in making the arrange- ments necessary to secure the passage to Bombay through- out, with as little inconvenience and as much comfort as can be experienced under the circumstances above stated. The Peninsular and Oriental Company allow a limited number of passengers to book for Aden, on the 20th of each month, and, when this can be effected, it is decidedly the most comfortable and least expensive mode of reaching Bombay. The East India Company's frigates, that con- vey the mid-monthly mail from Aden to Bombay, afford good accommodation for a few persons ; and the run is only one of ten days' endurance. The Peninsular and Oriental Company, under no cir- cumstances, book the whole way to Bombay. Passengers wishing to adopt that course, and having fixed the date of their departure, should make immediate application to JAMES BARBER and Co., whose circular will be found at the end of this book, and whose advice and assistance will always be found useful to the Overland traveller. Passengers who cannot adopt the first part of this route, so far as Aden, in the Peninsular and Oriental Company's steamers, will find the following directions 'serve them in the time of need. TO BOMBAY. 37 The Company's steamers for Malta and Constantinople start from Southampton on the 29th of every month, at 1-30 P.M. (when the 29th falls on a Sunday, the steamer leaves at nine o'clock on the morning of the 30th), arriving at Malta about the 10th of the month. Passengers for Alexandria and Bombay are conveyed from Malta to Alexandria by one of Her Majesty's steamers, leaving Malta, on the arrival there, from Mar- seilles, of the London mail of the 7th of the month. On their arrival at Alexandria, the same means of tra- velling are provided for passengers, as described in a previous part of this work; but the passenger, in this case, having only hitherto paid for his sea-journey to Malta 27 10s. a further sum of 12 10s. has to be paid for passage from Malta to Alexandria, and then he has to make his arrangement with the Egyptian Transit Company, in order that he may reach Suez in time to embark in the East India Company's steamer at that port, which conveys the mail to Bombay. The Transit Company have established the following rates : A lady A gentleman A child above ten years of five years and under ten . . of two five . under two years A European female servant .... A European man-servant or mechanic . A native female servant From Alexandria to Suez, and vice versa. / -e \ 12 12 via 12 8 6 free 10 8 8 Two cwt. of baggage is allowed at the 12 rate, and one 38 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. cwt. for all below it, and 16s. per cwt. is charged for any excess on that weight. Provisions are liberally supplied on the journey; but hotel expenses at Alexandria, Cairo and Suez, as well as wines, beer and spirits, are not included in the sum charged by the Transit Company. The following may be consi- dered a fair estimate of the cost of the trip : s. Transit 12 One cwt. of extra luggage 16 One day's board at Alexandria 08 Wine and beer 07 Ditto on journey to Cairo 07 One day at Cairo 08 Wine and beer 07 Ditto in the desert 07 Half a day at Suez 05 One bottle of beer 02 Boat-hire on landing, and, probably, donkey-hire for sight-seeing 10 15 17 This amount will vary, of course, according to the mode of living and views of the passenger, but 15s. per day may be taken as a fair average for living, and 5s. additional, well managed, will pay the expense of seeing the sights of interest in or about Cairo, if a prolonged stay be contem- plated or practicable. Arrived at Suez, the passenger will have to secure his accommodation to Bombay, according to the regulations in the following pages. RULES FOR BOMBAY PASSENGERS. 39 East India Company's rules for the engagement of passages and accommodation of passengers in the Government steam-packets between Bombay and Suez. Application for passage is to be made at the office of the master- attendant in Bombay, and at other ports to the commander. Passengers are to be divided into two classes, viz. : First class, who sit at the commander's table and are entitled to all the privileges of the quarter-deck. Second-class, who are not entitled to walk aft of the paddle- boxes, who berth forward, and either arrange for their own pro- vision, or mess with the warrant-officers or engineers. Every passenger of the first class shall pay the following sum, as table-money, for the voyage from Bombay to Suez, or from Suez to Bombay, viz. : A lady or gentleman Rs. 200 A child ten years of age, and above five years 100 A child five years and above one 80 A child one year and under 50 A child under one year and with the mother . Free It is to be understood that, for the above sums, the passengers are to be provided with a plain, substantial table ; but no person is entitled to more than one pint of wine and one bottle of beer per diem. Cabin passengers have the first choice of seats at the table, and, after them, the saloon passengers, in preference to those on the deck, whose priority will be arranged according to their standing on the passage-list. The seats will be arranged by the com- mander, and, once taken, they cannot be changed without his permission during the voyage. In addition to the table-money, the following sums will be charged for the accommodation engaged by first-class passengers, viz. : A treble cabin Es. 1000 A double cabin 800 A single cabin 500 A saloon berth 350 A deck passage 300 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Every second class passenger shall pay Es. 150. For each European servant 50 Es. must be paid as subsistence- money, and 50 Es. as passage-money ; for native servants the charge will be one-half the rate for a European ; but none are to be considered and taken as servants unless they actually accom- pany their masters or mistresses. A passenger who has engaged a cabin may make what arrange- ment he likes for its occupation ; he may either keep it entirely to himself, or admit to share it with any one that he pleases, pro- vided only that the name of the person so admitted (if an adult) have been previously on one of the lists, and subject to the fol- lowing restrictions, viz. : A treble cabin cannot be appropriated to the accommodation of more than Four ladies. Three gentlemen. Six children. One lady and four children. Two ladies and three children. Three ladies and two children. One gentlemen and three children. Two gentlemen and two children. A lady and her husband, with two children. A double cabin cannot be appropriated to more than Three ladies. Two gentlemen. Four children. A lady and three children. Two ladies and two children. A gentleman with two children. A lady and her husband, with one child. A single cabin cannot be appropriated to more than Two ladies. One gentleman. Three children. One lady and two children. Passengers in a steamer that may from accident or other cause be obliged to return to port, will be entitled to the refund of the EUEOPEAN EOUTE. -41 amount that has been paid, deducting therefrom a sum for the table allowance of the commander, according to the number of days that the vessel may have been at sea, calculating the average time occupied in a voyage to or from Suez to be eighteen days, and Aden ten days. For the convenience of passengers from the Red Sea to India, the commanders of the Honourable Company's packets are autho- rised to receive payment of passage-money at Suez, or any port Detween Suez and Bombay, in sovereigns, Spanish dollars or German crowns, at the following rates of exchange, viz. : Sovereigns at Es. 11 each. Spanish dollars at . . . . 2 and 3 annas each. German crowns at . . . 2 and 2 annas each. Each cabin-passenger may, if he pleases, put all his baggage into his cabin. The saloon and deck-passengers will be allowed to keep one box or bag above. The rest of the baggage is to be in the baggage-room, and passengers will be allowed access to it twice a week, on a day and hour fixed by the commander, who will appoint a person to have charge of the baggage. Any applicant may be refused a passage without any cause being assigned, either by the authorities at Bombay or by the commander of the vessel when away from Bombay ; but a report of the rejec- tion is to be communicated to Government. All persons who take passage, either themselves or through their agents, will be considered as thereby binding themselves to comply with these rules, which will be shown by the master- attendant or by the commander of the vessel to parties who engage a passage. ROUTE VIA FRANCE, GERMANY OR ITALY. AN impression is abroad that parties leaving England for India may travel through France, Germany or Italy, em- barking for Alexandria at either Marseilles, Trieste, or Naples, at as reasonable a cost, and with as little trouble as if they had taken their passage in the Peninsular and 44 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Oriental Company's steamers from Southampton.- That such routes have their advantages, in the information and experience which travelling on the continent imparts to the intelligent, no one can deny; but that they are, in other respects, less troublesome or more economical than the sea- trip cannot by experience be maintained. In truth, no person can even compute with accuracy the actual ex- pense of a laud-journey; for, though the charges for posting by diligence, eil- wagon, vetturino, or rail, may be easily ascertained, it is impossible to estimate probable hotel charges, the extortions of gendarmerie, custom-house officers, passport employes, c., or to foretel what detentions may take place en route; detentions which, if for only one hour beyond the time for the departure of the steamer, involve a prolonged stay of another mouth. We, therefore, feel justified in discarding all minute particulars respecting the routes we have indicated, simply mentioning that parties who do not seek the accommodation of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's boats until they reach Malta or Alex- andria, will have to pay (rateably) a higher sum for their passage to Ceylon, Madras or Calcutta, than would be charged them, were they to embark, in the first instance, at Southampton. We may add, however, that should any parties, in the face of the difficulties and objections, still prefer proceeding by the continental route, they will do well to limit their luggage to the least possible supply, and always refer, before deciding on the trip, to parties in London, who can give them the latest and fullest informa- tion on the subject. * There have been instances of passengers being detained at Trieste, in consequence of there being only three or four wishing to proceed ; the steamer did not start. THE HOMEWARD PASSAGE. 43 THE HOMEWARD PASSAGE. To the " homeward bound" who engages his passage in the Peninsular Company's steamer right through to England, we may address the following information : We will suppose him to he at Calcutta, or the provinces under the Bengal Presidency. Having made up his mind to proceed to England, and settled the period of his de- parture, he addresses the Agent of the Company in Calcutta, requesting him to secure a passage in the steamer appointed to proceed to Suez in the month he may have selected. The advertisements published in the Calcutta papers will indicate the arrangements made for the departure of the steamers, and the plans which the Company's agents can supply will assist the intending passenger to select a cabin. The prices of accommodation which we have given in pounds sterling do not vary in India. The conversion of pounds sterling into rupees at the current exchange of the day will at once give the amount. If the party be bent upon making a prolonged stay in Egypt, it will only be necessary to engage a passage to Suez, taking a certificate from the captain that the voyage has been made in one of the Peninsular and Oriental Com- pany's vessels, in order to ensure a passage from Alexandria to Southampton, at some future period, in one of the vessels of the same establishment, by paying the amount (exclu- sive of desert transit) that would have been exacted in Calcutta for the entire passage. If, however, the traveller, after remaining in Egypt, purpose visiting the Continent 44 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. of Europe prior to his return to England, he need not trouble himself about the certificate. Having engaged his passage, the homeward-bound will next think of his equipment for the trip. What we have said on this subject, in the instructions to outward-bound passengers, will equally apply to him. No cabin furniture whatever is required, nor will anything be needed in addition to the ample wardrobe which a resident in India generally possesses, beyond a couple of blouses, or light jean shooting-coats, and a sola hat. Should the traveller be resident at Madras, or under the Fort St. George government, he should address his appli- cation to the Oriental Company's agent at the Presidency, who will give him all necessary information as to the time when the steamer may be expected at Madras. He will be required to be perfectly ready to start, as the stay of the vessel in the Madras roads seldom exceeds the few hours requisite in coaling. Officers on the Bombay establishment will, it is pre- sumed, for the most part, leave their own Presidency in the East-India Company's steamers, the regulations regarding which will be found in a preceding page. The accommodation of the government boats terminating at Suez, the Bombay officer will be thrown upon his own resources for the remainder of his trip. He will accord- ingly tlo wisely, if he wish to get rapidly to England, to address himself a month before-hand to the agent of the Peninsular and Oriental Company in Egypt, to book him a passage thence to Southampton, and to arrange for his transit across the desert.* * See Appendix A. THE HOMEWARD PASSAGE. 45 Officers on sick-leave or furlough very frequently arrive without certain necessary documents, and are consequently subject to great inconvenience and expense. They should be provided with Certificate of length of service. " of being allowed a furlough. " of date to which pay has been issued. If from Bengal, a certificate from the pilot in duplicate of the date of the ship's leaving the Sandheads; and, if it be intended to claim income-allowance from the military fund, a certificate from the secretary to the fund of being entitled to such an allowance. The voyage from India to Suez, as far as the attractions of the intermediate ports are concerned, presents very few charms for the traveller; and, even if they were numerous, the stay at each place is so brief, that there is scarcely any opportunity of enjoying them; but every change is accept- able to the landsman confined for several days on shipboard, more particularly if the scenes he beholds have a dash of novelty in them. Arrived at Madras, therefore (we speak now to the Bengal officer), he will pull ashore in one of the Mussoolah boats, whose peculiar construction and safe navi- MUSSOOLAH BOAT. 1:0 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. gation through the surf that perpetually rolls upon the shore at that port has always been a subject of sin-prise to the novice. If he have a friend at the Presidency, he will probably get the use of a carriage for the day, if not, he will be able to hire a " shigram" (palanquin carriage), or a " a bandy" (gig), and drive to all the most striking parts in the town. The Mount-road, with its numerous European shops, and monument to Sir Thomas Munro, the fort and the arsenal, the college, the public stables, the government house, the Athenceum library, the Black town, &c., will fur- nish subjects of inspection enough to occupy a few hours very pleasantly. CEYLON. The next point on the route has its attrac- tions for the Madras, as well as the Bengal, officer. An idea of these may be gathered from the following lively and intelligent description of a visit to Point de Galle, the coaling port, derived from " The Monthly Times,'" and written by a gentleman who had touched there in the " Hindostan," on his way to England: " On the seventh day, including our twenty-four hours' detention at Madras, after leaving the Sandheads, we found ourselves, in the morning, approaching the beautiful Island of Ceylon, and anchored about noon in Point de Galle harbour. The entrance to the harbour was pretty enough low rocks, over which the waves were beating and bound- ing, extended to the left, and a point of land seemed to jut out prominently to them, on which is built the Dutch fort of olden days, and which still retains its characteristic look of Dutch solidity and unavailing massiveness. There is no appearance of town from the ship; and very few habitations visible, or indications of much cultivation. The CEYLON. 47 old Dutch church forms the principal object in the fort. You know I had letters from a family long resident at G-alle. I proposed to see them on the following morn- ing, but they would not hear of my remaining on board; so I landed in the afternoon, and. soon found all was kindness and hospitality on the part of my new Cingalese acquaint- ances. The residence was formerly the old Government House, in the days of the Dutch. It was a large, roomy, substantial building; the doors were lofty, and the walls panelled in stucco, and painted with white and ochre ; the tittings-up and furniture were plain, but substantially made, of carved ebony and satin-wood. " On the following day, after a most gloriously com- fortable night's rest in a very clean bed and cool, capacious room, we started, after breakfast, in a small palkee-garree and pony, always easily obtainable on hire, to visit a country-house on a hill about three miles from the fort. The drive was through a beautiful and open, well-shaded road, with frequent interspersings of small cleared patches of rice and other cultivation. The road itself was narrow, with ditches on either side, but well metalled with broken granite. The comfortable houses of the burghers rose occasionally by the road side, on little shady eminences, here and there, and seemed neat and peculiarly cozy. They were chiefly oblong, tiled buildings, with a verandah to the front. These burghers are descendants either from the former Dutch or Portuguese possessors of this coast; and many that I saw were not a little darkened in their descent. On reaching the hill, which we had to walk up, I found the sun sadly oppressive ; but we were amply re- paid for the ascent, for the view from it was superb. The sea was visible, and almost everywhere open to us along the horizon, through the different hills ; and every here and there, in our vicinity and below us, were beautiful 48 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. valleys and richly cleared spots, with well-defined roads running through them, and occasionally cottages and huts dotted in every direction; the grand distant mountains forming afar a tall and varied background. " I returned to the ship, after dinner, in the evening, much gratified with my visit. The mode of living at Ceylon is more English, in all respects, than at Calcutta ; the table more simple the servants fewer and the whole character of domestic economy less Oriental than we are accustomed to on the Indian Continent; but the scenery of the island itself is far from partaking of this un- Oriental appearance; it realises, in everything, all we fancy and read of in descriptions of tropical islands. The closeness and abundance of the vegetation, the variety of Eastern jungle trees, the palm-like characteristic towering of the cocoa and beetle-nut tree, everywhere prominent in the luxuriant woods around you, all tend to give to Ceylon a picturesque and Eastern style of beauty, very different from the low plains and unvaried flatness of the country in Bengal. " The dresses of the natives are different from Bengal; men wear combs like the women of other countries, and have a loose cloth round their legs, vastly resembling a petticoat. Their language is the Cingalese; an open and gentle sort of well-vowelled dialect, which sounds prettily and euphoniously enough, like the Malayan language. " Trade altogether is not very extensive in Ceylon. At Galle there are but three or four merchants, forming the entire mercantile community of the place. At Columbo there are, perhaps, twenty merchants and agents, and there is a Ceylon bank. The local trade is confined to three articles, viz., coffee, cocoa-nut oil, and cinnamon, though a CEYLON. 49 few folks are beginning to turn their attention to sugar. Coffee is reared in plantations on the higher lands, and in chosen spots in the interior. Some of the plantations have done well, and, after the third year, are described as having paid more with the one season's produce than all the pre- ceding and preliminary outlay and price of block put to- gether. Several concerns, however, are losing, the soil being unsuitable ; the present low prices for Ceylon coffee, in England, must utterly ruin them. It has been proved, that the only chance of success is with clearances on the forest and large tree lands : the plant thrives in these, though it takes three years to bear, and attains maturity only after the fifth year ; it is expected to last ten years. Like all other concerns, those under proprietors themselves fare the best, and are easily distinguishable from those superintended by agents ; but all managers live very un- comfortably. The superintendents get about 150 rupees per month, which is little enough, for supplies of the commonest necessity reach only from Kandy, or from a distance, and they are frequently without supplies at all, subsisting then on rice and the poorest produce of the villages around them. The Ceylon coffee itself ranks next to Mocha in the English markets ; but recent prices must be insufficient to meet the charges of production. It is planted much in the same manner as with tea in Assam. After clearance, they set the plants at certain distances, when they grow to about the same height as the tea- tree. After blossoming and ripening, and before falling, the fruit is gathered ; when there is a simple process, by some wheels and cheap machinery, to clear the berry from the pulp and skin. " There are cinnamon gardens, near Galle, but they are not pleasing to look at, and assuredly there is no spicy and aromatic odour on the breeze, as the poets would fain esta- D 50 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. blish iii reference to this island, the famed Taprobane of old ! When you bruise a twig or shoot of the cinnamon- tree and break off a small bit of the bark, the scent of the cinnamon is powerful and pleasant. The cocoa-nut oil is expressed much in the same manner as in Bengal, but it surprised me that, for domestic use at Galle, it was so expensive; they asked sixpence for two quart bottles of it, or, at this rate, about five rupees and more per maund. I should have expected it to be cheaper in Ceylon. " The Rifle corps seemed to be a fine, well- disciplined body of men, chiefly Malays or their descendants. The regiment is officered like the line, and the dress, appoint- ments, setting up and look of the soldiers were excellent. " The salaries and receipts of the public functionaries and others in Ceylon are not quite so good as under the Company, but the habits of living, as I have before re- marked, are more economical, and, I dare say, there is more money comparatively saved in Ceylon, than in the Com- pany's wider and more imperial territories." The new arrival at Ceylon is sorely beset by pedlars, who tempt him to invest a small portion of his capital in ivory snuff-boxes and knife-handles, tortoise-shell combs, card- racks, &c. A very few of these articles, purchased at a third of the price asked for them, may prove acceptable to friends in England, but we would recommend the Ceylon visitor to abstain from too large an indulgence in his gene- rous inclinations, for ivory pays a heavy duty in England, and, after all, the articles brought home may be procured in England at as cheap a rate. After leaving Ceylon and passing through the Maldive islands, which, though very low and level, are green and SUEZ. 5 1 picturesque, no object of interest presents itself until the port of Aden is reached. Quitting Aden, the shores of the Red Sea are frequently seen, but rarely approached during the upward voyage. In six days Suez is reached, and, as soon as boats can come off to the steamer, the passengers are landed and almost immediately conveyed by van (see previous details on this head) across the desert. The town of Suez offers no kind of inducement to pro long one's stay. Small, dirty and destitute of any archi- tectural beauties or antique remains, it exhibits the worst specimen of a Mahomedan city in the whole Ottoman empire. Arrived at Suez, it will be for the passenger who has not contracted for the entire trip home, to select his own method of getting to Cairo. The vans of the Transit Com- pany offer unquestionably the most convenient and ex- peditious mode of carrying the traveller across the desert ; but there are not wanting persons who prefer the romance and independence of a tedious trip on the back of a horse, donkey or camel. If there were any objects of interest worthy of an occasional halt in the desert, the inconveni- ence of this slow progress would have its counterpoise ; but when we assure the traveller that there is not one single fragment of antique remains, one solitary picturesque spot, nay, nothing, beyond one tree, seven station-houses, and a multitude of rat-holes and camel-skeletons, to diversify the broad, glaring, sandy waste, he will not hesitate about the prudence of paying his 12 the whole cost of transit to Alexandria or 9 to Cairo only, and joining the bulk of his fellow-travellers in the omnibuses. From Cairo a freer choice is left to the traveller. If he V4 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. prefer lingering in Egypt, he will find in a visit to the cataracts, the temples of Luxor, Carnac, &c., enough to engage his attention for an indefinite number of weeks. On these points, however, we have supplied information among the " Miscellaneous" matter at the close of this volume. The route from Cairo to Alexandria, merely reversing the order of the trip, is described in a foregoing part of this volume. Arrived at Alexandria provided the pas- senger has not booked himself in India for the entire transit to Southampton it often becomes a question which route shall be taken to accomplish the remainder of the journey. The taste, inclinations or curiosity of some will lead them to Constantinople, to Syria, the Holy Land, the Grecian Archipelago ; others may feel disposed to embark for Trieste, in order to visit Venice, northern Italy and Germany. Many chalk out for themselves a trip to Naples, Rome, Florence, Switzerland, &c., previously purifying them- selves of the bugbear plague at Malta ; and some few embark in the French steamer and make their way to Marseilles, there to serve quarantine, preparatory to a tour through France. If it were as much our province to advise as it is our purpose to inform, we would suggest, as the result of the information imparted to us by many travellers, that it is, on many accounts, most desirable that persons from India should come straight to England, in the first instance, thence betaking themselves to the continent of Europe, if so in- clined. The chief reasons for this proceeding are the en- tire avoidance of the quarantines, which are often irksome and always expensive ; the gratification of the natural affec- tions by the earliest possible meeting with relatives and friends ; the facility of obtaining information respecting the MALTA. 53 most attractive routes, and introductions to families on the Continent; the opportunity of selecting a companion from old fellow-soldiers, fellow-officials or Indian friends similarly bent upon a pleasurable excursion. But these arguments may weigh as a feather against the determination to visit the interesting portions of Europe and Asia we have indicated, preparatory to placing foot in England. It is difficult to eradicate from any Anglo- Indians the notion that it is better to arrive cleansed of Indian rust and polished by a tour through civilised lands, or more prudent " to see the world" while you are in it, than to trust to the chance of quitting England when you have just tasted its infinite pleasures. For the consideration of such reasoners, therefore, we submit some information respecting quarantines, the rules of which, however, are very changeable. A passage to Malta from Alexandria may be procured in the "Peninsular and Oriental Company's" boats for 12 10s. The French steamers charge 10, but this does not include the table, wines, &c., which are paid for separately to the restaurateur on board. The trip in the English steamer occupies four days. The French vessel goes first to Syra, to meet the Constantinople boat, and this occupies seven days. Arrived at Malta, intimation is given by the captain of the number of persons who meditate remaining there, and accommodation is accordingly provided for them in the lazaretto. Their stay will depend upon the nature of the bill of health carried by the vessel ; it is not, how- ever, at any time, less than twelve days, and may extend to twenty. The regulations to be observed in the lazaretto are given on the following page. 54 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. GENERAL REGULATIONS. To be observed by all Persons performing Quarantine in the Lazaretto of Malta. I. All passengers, on landing, are to give their names to the captain of the lazaretto, which are to be entered in the registry of the office. II. The captain of the lazaretto will assign apartments for passen- gers, and each passenger will be provided with two chairs, a table, and a wooden bedstead, for which no charges are made ; but any damage done by the passengers to the apartments or furniture is to be made good by them before pratique. III. Passengers are not to be permitted to enter other apartments ;. nor can they be allowed to receive visitors, except at the parlatoria of the lazaretto, and that only during office-hours ; nor are they to trespass the limits assigned to them by the captain of the lazaretto. IV. Passengers must pay a strict attention to all the instructions they may receive from the captain of the lazaretto and from the health guardians, and particularly in every point that regards their baggage, clothes, &c., being properly aired and handled during the period of their quarantine ; and their quarantine will onlv commence to reckon from the day on which all their bag- gage, clothes, &c., have been duly opened and handled. V. All letters and parcels, or other effects brought by passengers, must be given up, in order that they may be fumigated or depurated separately from them, as the occasion may require. YL All cases of sickness must be reported immediately to the cap- MALTESE LAZARETTO. 55 tain of the lazaretto, and all persons sick are to be visited imme- diately by the physician to the lazaretto, after which official visit, passengers are at liberty to avail themselves of any medical attendance they think proper. VII. Passengers are to pay the Government fee for the guardians em- ployed to attend them, for the number of days of their quarantine, at the following rates, viz. : at 1*. 3d. per day for the guardian who attends one passenger, and at 2s. Qd. per day for each guardian who attends more than one passenger. They are to victual the guardian or guardians during their quarantine, or to pay to each guardian an allowance of 7d. per day in lieu thereof. It is to be clearly understood that the guardians are employed solely for quarantine purposes, and they are strictly prohibited to interfere in any other service whilst they attend passengers. VIII. The office hours at the lazaretto are from 8 A.M. to 12, and from 2 P.M. to 5 daily; and all letters sent to the fumigating-room be- fore 9 A.M. daily, will be delivered in Valetta at 10, and those sent before 3 will be delivered in Valetta at 4 P.M. by the letter mes- senger, who is entitled to receive from the passengers a penny for each note, parcel, or letter, as a remuneration for his trouble and boat-hire. IX. A daily report of all circumstances is to be made by the cap- tain of the lazaretto to the superintendent of quarantine and marine police. N.B. A trattoria has been established at the lazaretto for the convenience of passengers who wish to avail themselves of it, from whence they can be supplied with dinners, wines, &c., &c., in their own apartments. Beds complete and other articles of furniture, if required, can also be hired from a person appointed to provide them. A note of charges for the trattoria, and for the hire of furni- ture, will be furnished to the passengers, on their applying for it. 56 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Of the manner in which the time may be passed in a lazaretto, the following graphic sketch by Mr. Stocqueler, which appeared some time since in the " Asiatic Journal," will convey no imperfect idea : " Upwards of 140 passengers left Alexandria in the Oriental, at the end of May, for some fifty had joined it from Bombay; amongst the latter were several heroes of Meanee and Hyderabad fine young soldiers, who were covered with honourable seal's received in the desperate engagements between Sir C. Napier and the Belochees. Never, perhaps, was a vessel freighted with so many who had distinguished themselves in conflict with the enemies of their country. Not less than twenty-six officers, who had seen service in Afghanistan, China and Scinde, paced the deck every day, and described the scenes which their own prowess and that of their comrades had, for the pre- vious three or four years, rendered memorable in the history of British India. But of this large number of homeward-bound passengers, only three (one having two ladies in his family), quitted the Oriental at Malta. Those who wished to prosecute the rest of their journey by land had either failed to make the necessary provision,* or shuddered at the prospect of twenty days' imprisonment in the lazaretto. Moreover, they flattered themselves with the belief, that they would be enabled to make the tour of the Continent when they had exhausted the various pleasures of glorious England. And so they steamed away to Southampton, leaving the few above alluded to the writer of this among them in the lazaretto, under suspi- cion of the crime of being afflicted with the plague. * Eighty pounds will carry a man through Italy, Switzerland, and France, with comfort, allowing for several days' stay at each place of interest. MALTESE LAZARETTO. 57 " Meanwhile, let me assure the traveller from India, that even a three weeks' incarceration in the Malta lazaretto is not intolerable, if, which is generally the case with the im- prisoned, he is lucky enough to have one or two pleasant and intelligent companions. I have before me, at this moment, a memorandum, written after twelve days' of cap- tivity, and, as it may serve to re-assure future prisoners, by conveying some idea of the scenes, impressions, and occu- pations which diversify existence in the durance they are compelled to support, I here transcribe it: " ' Let me survey my prison, and its agremens. I am lodged in two commodious apartments, overlooking the quarantine bay. I look out of the southern window of my verandah, and have the waters of the Mediterranean forty feet only below me. Opposite, at the distance of about 300 yards, and divided from me by these waters and the quarantine harbour, are the ramparts of the fortifications, surmounted by windmills, flag-staves, and a small Roman Catholic chapel. To the right is the termination of the bay, where a dozen of Greek, Austrian, and English brigs and barques lie in quarantine, sufficiently near to allow me to observe the operations on board. Behind all these, a little more to the south-eastward, is part of the suburbs of La Valetta, the evening promenade, gardens, hills, &c. To my left, is the entrance to the bay, overlooked on one side by part of the city of La Valetta, and on the other side by Fort Manvel, now used as a part of the lazaretto. This view greets me whenever I stand in the verandah, a re- creation to which one is often tempted by the clearness, coolness, and crispness of the air, the beauty of the sky, and the rich blue of the water. Well, this of itself is some- thing. Then, for moving sights, we have occasionally the arrival or departure of a steamer from Alexandria, or Greece, or the coast of Spain ; of vessels from Tripoli, and Smyrna, D 5 58 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. and Syra; of speronaros from Sicily or the Italian coast; or we see a vessel released from quarantine, working her way out of the harbour. Early in the morning, four times in the week, the hell of the little chapel, on the summit of a rock opposite the lazaretto, tolls to prayers. The chapel is not more than twenty feet in hreadth, and the same in depth. The altar occupies the back or southern side, and exactly faces us. The bell ceases, the priest dons his canonicals, and the matin mass commences, the responses being audibly chanted or muttered by the crews of Maltese and Italian vessels, who are either quartered in apartments beneath us, or employed on board the vessels. The door of the chapel closes, and the work or pastime of the day commences. " ' Ha ! there's a splash ! a sailor in quarantine has stripped himself, and plunged into the water beneath his prison-door. Another and another follow him! How admirably they swim ! the ease of the water-fowl, and the rapidity of the fish. See ! one of them dives ! How long he remains under water ! Will he drown ? will he not be suffocated? not a bit of it; he rises to the surface, bearing in his hands some of the black, starry, thorny members of the crustaceous tribe. He has a knife in his right hand, which I did not observe before, and which he evidently took with him to dislodge the fish from their location in the rocky depths. Splash! and the strong swimmer is again twenty feet below the surface. Again, he rises and again descends and behold ! he has accumulated a perfect break- fast of shell-fish! Meanwhile, the others breast the waves, diving, floating, playing, and rejoicing in all the muscular strength which the noble, healthful, and refreshing science calls into action. Well, a walk will do no harm the verandah is sixty paces long, and forty or fifty turns will give one an appetite for breakfast. A. and B. have abun- MALTESE LAZARETTO. 59 dance of conversation for the promenade, and when we have exhausted the pleasures of memory, we can turn to the pleasures of hope, and debate the possibility of an abate- ment of the quarantine or, at any rate, discuss the respec- tive advantages and pleasures of going to Syra, to Naples, or Marseilles. We are tired now, and it is time to dress. Breakfast is ready can anything be more satisfactory, or anything more tempting and wholesome? There are coffee and tea, and three times as many rolls as we can eat! The eggs are as large as the finest production of the English barn-door hen, and boiled to the exact point half a minute less, and the albumen would not have coagulated; half a minute more, and they would have been as hard as a stone. And there s a delicious dish of strawberries, brought only yesterday from the coast of Sicily, and plucked but an hour before their embarkation ! And flowers too : * The captive soothers of a captive's hours. " ' Carlo, best of servitors, knows my penchant, and decks the table with the rose, the pink, the carnation, and the fragrant thyme. " ' Breakfast over, Mr. Cassolani is announced. He is the captain of the lazaretto ; a courteous, intelligent old gentleman, of very correct notions and kind disposition. He is come to give us a list of the passengers who have just arrived at Marseilles, and to ask us to subscribe a trifle for a poor widow, whose husband, a guardiano of the laza- retto, died of apoplexy the day of our arrival. We have dropped our mites for the widow's benefit, and Cassolani condescends to pick them up, though he will not receive them from our hands. This painfully reminds us that we are prisoners on the suspicion of the crime of plague gens susjjects. People ' in pratique? as freedom from the laza- retto is called, will ' walk with us, talk with us, buy with us, 60 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. sell with us but they will not eat with us, drink with us,' nor pollute themselves by touching our persons or our clothes. Cassolani carries a stick, to keep us at a respectful distance, and there is a soldier of the 4'2nd Highlanders on the opposite ramparts, prepared to send a bullet through us, if we attempt to go abroad until we are fairly cleansed of the foul imputation. " * Cassolani departs, and S. and I go to chess. From chess we fly to books. It is three o'clock, and dinner is announced. For economy and society's sake, we have made a table d'hote, and the whole party, dine together. It is true that B. looks suspiciously at one dish, and C. distrusts another ; but, nevertheless, the whole style of the thing is good and clean, comprising the English and French modes de cuisine as well as could be desired. There is, for ex- ample, soup a la Julienne, and a dish of mackerel ; roast beef a V Anglais (the beef comes to Malta from Tunis, and. after serving quarantine, is fattened for the table); african- deau of sweetbread in a well-flavoured sauce ; a stewed breast of mutton, mashed potatoes, a maccaroni, peas or French beans, or artichokes, an apricot tart, cheese, and a salad. Oranges, cherries, and strawberries compose our dessert, and we drink a pint of Marsala. What more would a man have ? " ' The sun declines, and the Maltese world emerges from its confinement. The telescopes now come into play, and we direct our views to the part of the town where the sempstresses congregate, and gaze out of the balcony win- dows, to catch the evening breeze, or^nything else that may be passing. The fall of night brings with it tea and candles, and then books, draughts, chess, and to bed !' " Of the other agremens of the lazaretto there remains MALTESE LAZARETTO. 61 nothing to notice, if I except the numerous boats which are continually coming and going across the harbour, often laden with females, who, in their black mantillas, with sparkling black eyes, and hair ti la Madonna, resemble Spanish women. " The expense of living in the Malta lazaretto is about eleven shillings per diem, as thus : s. d. Breakfast 18 Dinner 30 A bottle of Marsala 13 Hire of Furniture 08 Servants' Wages (including diet) ... 2 3 The Guardian (ditto) 1 10 10 8 " This can be increased, if necessary, by a more abundant dinner, tea, or coffee in the evening, spirituous liquors, and a greater quantity of furniture ; but it cannot be diminished. Washing costs about one shilling per dozen pieces, and sevenpence per diem for the diet of the llanchisseuse, who must come into the lazaretto to perform her functions. A capital circulating library keeps the incarcerated well sup- plied with books (at one penny per volume per day), and Galignanis Messenger, and the Maltese papers can also be had on application to Mr. Mure's establishment." Emerging from the lazaretto, the traveller -is recom- mended to pass a few days in inspecting the town and the surrounding country (vide page 11\ and then to repack his luggage, dispatching such as he may not require on his homeward trip direct from Malta, consigned to the care of his agent in London, with instructions as to the disposal of the same. 62 THE OVEKLAND GUIDE. Those travellers who prefer visiting France vid Mar- seilles, will find the lazaretto there, comparatively speaking, a sort of purgatory. We subjoin the regulations as pub- lished by the French authorities : WITH UNCLEAN BILL OF HEALTH. AET. 1. French Post-office Packets. 19 days after debarking effects and passengers. Passengers by these boats and their baggage. 17 days after landing at the lazaret ; 14 days only when the baggage shall have been plombe at the consulate of France at the port of embarking, and that this opera- tion be legally certified. ART. 2. French or foreign men-of-war. 17 days after the landing of passengers and their baggage. Passengers on board these vessels. 17 days -without spoglio, 14 days with spoglio. ART. 3. Vessels with pilgrims. 25 days. Pilgrims. 25 days after landing. ART. 4. Every other description of sailing-vessel or steam-boat. 21 days after landing suspected articles. Passengers by these vessels. 17 days without spoglio, 14 days with spoglio. Merchandise. 21 days after landing at the lazaret. WITH DOUBTFUL BILLS OF HEALTH. ART. 1. French post-office packets. 15 days after debarking effects and passengers. Passengers by these boats and their baggage. 14 days after landing ; 12 days only when the baggage shall have been plombe at the consulate of France at the point of embarking, and that this operation be legally certified. ART. 2. French or foreign men-of-war. 14 days after the land- ing of passengers and their baggage. Without pas- sengers, 12 days. Passengers on board these vessels. 14 days after landing without spoglio, and 12 days with spoglio. SYRA LAZARETTO. 03 ART. 3. Vessels with pilgrims. 20 days. Pilgrims. 20 days after lauding at the lazaret. ART. 4. Every other description of sailing vessel or steam-boat. 15 days after landing suspected articles. Passengers by these vessels. 14 days without spoglio, after landing at the lazaret ; 12 days with spoglio. Suspected goods. 15 days after landing at the lazaret. WITH CLEAN BILLS OF HEALTH. ART. 1. French post-office packets. 12 days after debarking effects at the lazaret. Passengers by these boats and their baggage. 9 days after landing, and their baggage exposed to the air. ART. 2. French or foreign men-of-war. 9 days, with or without passengers. Passengers on board these vessels. 9 days after landing, and their baggage exposed to the air. ART. 3. Every other description of vessel or steam-boat. 12 days after landing suspected goods. Passengers by these vessels. 9 days. Suspected merchandise. 12 days after landing at the lazaret. Of the Syra (Athens) quarantine, it is enough to say that it is more commodious and agreeable than the same establishment at Marseilles, and not so convenient as the one at Malta. The Syra lazaretto is, according to the report of the latest visitors, exceedingly commodious and clean, and facing, as it does, the sea, where there are continual breezes, it is infinitely cooler than the city of Athens. The charges of the Trattoria are not greater than those at Malta (about eleven shillings per diem), and the detention in quarantine never exceeds seventeen days, and when a clean bill of health is brought by the French steamer from Alexandria, the duration of the imprisonment is very much less. 64 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. THE VOYAGE TO SOUTHAMPTON. QUARANTINE, on arrival in England, being done away with (unless some special cause arise on the voyage home to render precaution necessary), the direct route is greatly to be preferred ; and the ease and comfort which it offers as con- trasted with the annoyances of continental travelling needs no comment. On reaching Southampton, the steamer goes into dock ; the whole of the luggage is forthwith conveyed to the dock warehouse, and the examination commences with that of the first person on the list. Passengers are not required to attend in person when their luggage is examined. Those who desire to leave Southampton by train immediately upon arrival, or who do not wish to subject themselves to the annoyance of being kept in the docks waiting their turn, are recommended to deposit their keys (including name and address) with Mr. Hill's clerk,* giving him, at the same time, a list of the packages, distinguishing such as contain articles subject to duty. For want of proper arrangement on the part of the passenger, we have known three hours pass in the examination of one gentleman's baggage, with upwards of eighty of his fellow-travellers anxiously waiting for their turn. This arises, in the first place, from the large quan- tity of luggage which many bring ; and, in the second, from the want of system in packing, distinguishing that which is immediately requisite from that which is unneces- sary. * Mr. Hill is the Southampton Custom-house agent of the " Peninsular aud Oriental Company." VOYAGE TO SOUTHAMPTON. 65 As passengers will be required to keep pace with the mails in either route, unless they arrange for a fortnight's stay in Egypt, the system of having a larger quantity of luggage than is actually necessary cannot be too much deprecated. The traveller is also apt to mix "duty goods" with per- sonal luggage, in anticipation of their escaping notice. This is a " forlorn hope," and leads invariably to the most rigid scrutiny of every package, thereby causing great delay. If the goods be such as trinkets, Bombay work-boxes, Dacca or Cuttack silver, China or India filligree packed in cotton, a still greater commotion arises at the custom-house, and we are not quite sure whether the circumstance does not render the articles liable to seizure and confiscation, under the quarantine laws. The better plan by far, whether the traveller attend the examination of his luggage or not, is to separate all goods liable to duty, and put them in a case or trunk, with an inventory of its contents, and the value of each article separately stated,* and then leave them in charge of Mr. Hill, with instructions to forward them without delay. They can, of course, be examined at once ; but we think it unfair to subject others to the inconvenience and loss of time that must consequently ensue. If the plan here recommended be followed, we venture to submit that it would be satisfactory to all parties. A general tariff of East India fabrics will be found in the Appendix ; but it is not generally known that all British * Government have the option of accepting your valuation. If they disapprove the estimate of the proprietor, they are empowered to seize the goods, but, in that case, must pay ten per cent, advance on your valuation. 66 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. manufactures that have been exported, and purchased out of Great Britain, are subject to a duty if re-imported. Being private property, however, they are generally released on petition to the Board of Customs, the petition being accompanied by a solemn declaration made by the owner before a magistrate, that the claim set forth in the petition is true. The reason assigned for this law is, that it pro- tects and promotes English manufacture, by preventing a return of goods to the country that have once been exported for sale. Parties who, from necessity or choice, bring servants from India, have too frequently so indefinite an agreement, that disputes and unpleasantnesses in settling with them frequently arise. We, therefore, earnestly recommend passengers to endeavour to do without personal servants, if possible ; but if it be impracticable to dispense with them, we would suggest that the engagement should specify whether services cease on arrival, if the servants are to be returned to India at the expense of the employer and whether it shall be via the Cape or Overland. The agree- ment should likewise state the allowance that will be made for board-wages. Sixteen shillings per week is the sum charged at the lodging-houses for this class. Persons arriving from India, particularly families, incur great expense by proceeding, on their arrival, direct to hotels or to furnished lodgings. In most cases they would do better by resorting to a boarding-house. There are many suitable establishments of this nature throughout England, where comfortable accommodation is afforded at a moderate charge. A letter of inquiry, written on the passage from Alexandria to Malta, and dispatched rid Marseilles, would be answered, and wait the writer's arrival at Southampton. EXPENSE. 67 EXPENSE. WE must not omit to advert to the total expense of an Overland journey, for it is an important question to all who must go to India. We think it will be found, on a fair calculation, that this is, by no means, so much in excess of the cost round the Cape of Good Hope as people are led to imagine. Independently of the cost, there are other important points worthy of consideration, which are frequently for- gotten by those who suffer themselves to be engrossed by the mere pecuniary view of the question. For example, there is an amazing difference in the time consumed in the two routes. Proceeding Overland, there will be two months gained which may be either passed at home, or, if the attractions of England have ceased, can be employed in anticipating the stipulated period of a return to, or arrival in India. In the latter case for we presume the traveller to be in the East India Company's service the Indian pay will be received two months sooner, and what is of greater moment, by far, two months' time is gained in "actual service," a consideration which, at some future day, may be of the last importance to the civil or military officer. If to these advantages we add the difference in the cost of the equipment for a six weeks' and a four months' trip ; the knowledge acquired by witnessing variety of scenery and diversity of manners ; the effect on the health and spirits of perpetual change ; the slight risk of delays from accidental want of water and provisions, damage in gales of wind, and other casualties which often drive sailing vessels into intermediate ports and prolong their 68 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. voyage, there can, ,ve should think, be no difference of opinion as to the superior claims of the Overland Route. As the nature of the currency with which the traveller should supply himself is a question of great importance, we consider it within our province to remark, that sovereigns are, by far, the best coin that can be carried, for purposes of general supply. Letters of credit may be obtained, however, to be used in the event of accident rendering additional funds necessary ; but it is prudent to endeavour to avoid a resort to them, for the exchange and commission on advances made upon such letters of credit, subject the drawer to considerable loss, an observation that applies particularly to Egypt. At Ceylon the sovereign is at a premium, frequently fetching twenty-one shillings. MISCELLANEOUS. FOR the information of such travellers as purpose varying their journey, by visiting the various places which occur en route, we subjoin the following particulars : England to Gibraltar, by the Peninsular Steamers, calling at Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon and Cadiz. These steamers start from Southampton on the 7th, 17th, and 27th of every month, at 3 o'clock in the afternoon. They proceed, in the first, instance, to Vigo, to land the mails for that part of Spain, affording to the traveller a view of the magnificent scenery of Yigo Bay and the Bayona Islands. Thence the steamer proceeds close along the coast, which presents a splendid panoramic view of " mount and dale," with nu- merous towns and villages interspersed, until she arrives MISCELLANEOUS. 69 off Oporto, where she stops to land mails and passengers, but does not enter the port. The passengers, however, will have a good view of the Fortress of San Joa da Foz, the Convent of the Sierra at Villa Nova, &c., so celebrated in the war between Don Pedro and Don Miguel ; also the city of Oporto, which looks very picturesque from the sea. Leaving Oporto, she holds her course on for Lisbon, and, passing the Burlings Rocks, and Rock of Lisbon, will enter the Tagus generally on the fourth day from leaving South- ampton. Lisbon, &c. The view of Lisbon, on entering the Tagus, is beautiful beyond description. The steamer usually re- mains here a day, before starting again on her passage southward for Cadiz and Gibraltar, and this will enable travellers to take a cursory view of the Lusitanian capital ; but it is recommended that they should, if time permits, stop ten days here, proceeding to Cadiz or Gibraltar by the following steamer. There are very good hotels now at Lisbon, and the town is greatly improved in cleanliness, no longer deserving the character for filth, &c., bestowed upon it by Lord Byron and others. Among the various interesting excursions which may be made in the neighbourhood of Lisbon, of course the spot where " Cintra's glorious Eden intervenes, In variegated maze of mount and glen," will not be forgotten, and will amply repay the trouble of a visit. From Lisbon to Cadiz the passage is made, in ordinary circumstances, in about twenty-six to thirty hours, and from Cadiz to Gibraltar in about eight hours. THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Cadiz, Seville, dr. The steamer remains at Cadiz only from three to four hours ; but even this will enable the passenger to see the principal part of the town, which is exceedingly clean and handsome; and its appearance in approaching the bay of Cadiz singularly beautiful and striking. If the traveller can afford to stop for the next steamer, he may make an excursion to Seville, between which and Cadiz steamers run almost daily. Xerez de la Front-era, and Puerto de Santa Maria, with the ex- tensive Bodejas of the wine merchants, are also well worthy of a visit. At Gibraltar, the steamer on the Indian line will receive the traveller and convey him to Malta. In forming a cal- culation, it will be prudent to reckon on having not less than seven or more than nine days' stay at each place, pro- vided it be intended to go forward by the next steamer. Again, should a party desire to remain a fortnight in Egypt, previous to joining the steamer at Suez, he can be accom- modated by the Peninsular and Oriental Company, who will convey him to Alexandria, and cause him to be taken up by the vessel on the Indian side at any later period. The additional cost of a stoppage at any of the interme- diate places would depend upon the tastes, habits and means of the traveller ; it need not be much, and, to a party of friends proceeding thus, the journey, at the proper season, would be instructive and delightful. From Malta the traveller can diverge to Constantinople ; or a few hours will take him to any of the chief points of interest, either in Italy or Greece. It would far exceed our limits to give details of all the various trips that might be made from so central a point as Malta ; lucidly, however, there is no want of guide-books to classic ground indeed, A FOKTXIGHT IN EGYPT. 71 from the nature of the subject, any such guide, to be really useful, must in itself be much larger than the present volume. Correct information as to the means of locomotion will be furnished by Mr. Holton, the Peninsular Company's Agent at Malta, who can advise the traveller how to save much valuable time, and also how to avoid trouble and expense. A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT. IN a previous page we have pointed out the principal objects of interest in the vicinity of Cairo and Alexandria, which are accessible in the ordinary transit through Egypt. In the event, however, of a prolonged residence in that country, either from necessity or choice, the list of videnda may manifestly be much extended. Supposing the traveller, then, to start from Cairo, after inspecting the pyramids and other sights near that city, he can, by application to an agent on the spot, procure a boat, well supplied with provisions, &c., and proceed a considerable distance up the Nile. We have stated else- where that there is little besides the Pacha's palace, Pompey's pillar, and Cleopatra's needle, to be seen at and in the neighbourhood of Alexandria, and therefore call the attention of the sojourner in Egypt to the interesting antiquities he will have an opportunity of examining on the borders of the Nile. Should he purpose limiting his trip to a fortnight, in order to be in time for the packet from Suez or Alexandria, it must be borne in mind that he can t'2 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. only visit a few of the places mentioned below, and must make arrangements accordingly; but, in case he should desire to extend his travels, we subjoin some notes from the best authorities, of the manifold wonders to be seen on the banks of the mighty Nile, and, if the reader require THE NILE BOAT. even further information, we commend to his perusal the admirable work on Egypt by Sir Gardiner Wilkinson. The great pyramid of Sacarah contains a small chamber with a few hieroglyphics, differing in this respect from all others. The arched tombs (now nearly destroyed) proving the pre-Augustan existence of the masonic arch, is of the time of Psammeticus II., about B.C. 604. Hit Eaheny, a large colossus of Rameses II., the sup- posed Sesostris. Mounds and indistinct remains of Mem- phis. On the right bank are the quarries from which a portion of the stones for the pyramids were drawn. In one part, oxen are represented drawing a block placed on a A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT. 73 sledge. A little to the south of the modern village is an inclined plane, leading from the quarries to the river. Thirty miles farther to the south, at Atfeh, mounds of Aphroditopolis, but without ruins. Left bank, false pyramid (Meidoum), difficult of access, on account of the canal. Three miles beyond Feohm, and on the opposite side (right bank), remains of crude brick walls, with hierogly- phics on the bricks. Right bank, eight miles N. of Meneijeh, is Fehnah, the ancient Acoris. Greek Ptolemaic inscription. Tombs cut in the rock with inscriptions. Roman figures in high relief. Quarries on top of mountain, with a tank for water. Right bank, seven miles beyond Meneijeh, is Rohn Ahman, some grottoes and ruins of an old town. Nine miles farther (right bank) Beni Hassan ; remark- ably interesting grottoes of the time of Osortixen (about B.C. 1740), in whose reign it is calculated that Joseph arrived in Egypt. The plans, explanatory of the trades, amusements, domestic arrangements, &c., of the ancient Egyptians, merit particular attention. In the columns of the best grotto we recognise the Doric Order. In the entablature over the doorway, observe that the ends of rafters are sculptured, instead of mutules and tryglyphs. About a mile and a half S. is another grotto, a temple of Pasht, Bubastis, or Diana, the Speos Artemidos (date Thotmeh III., 15th century B.C.) The Speos is known by E 74 THE OVERLAND GUIDE the name of Stable Antar. Near it are deposited cat mummies. Right bank, at Shekh Abadeh, are a few remains of Antinoe, built by Adrian. The principal streets may be traced, as well as the hippodrome, towards the east, out of the walls. Grottoes in rock, &c. This whole district has been famous for thieves, from the time of Bruce to the present day. Right bank. El Rasheth. grotto in the mountain, with a statue represented on a sledge. The ruins of Hermopolis, at Ashmonnoyn, have been destroyed. The Pacha's sugar-factory at E'Roamoon merits a visit. Left bank. Ibayda, at the corner of the mountain, crude brick walls, and some grottoes not very remarkable. After Shekh Said, the mountains go off to the E., leav- ing the river. A little beyond is Til el Amama, to the S. of which are the ruins of an ancient town, of which only the brick houses remain. To the S. are grottoes in the mountain, with curious sculpture, and upon the mountain is an alabaster quarry. The sculptures represent a king and queen offering and praying to the sun, which shoots forth rays terminating in human hands, one of which gives the emblem of life to the king. Six miles before Maufalouat, at El Hareib. are ruins of A FORTNIGHT IN EGYPT. 75 an old town in a ravine, in which are dog and cat mummies. Near Maabdeh, opposite Maufalouat, are crocodile mum- my-pits, difficult of access and dangerous, E'Siout, the capital of the Said; and standing on the site of Lycopolis, merits a visit. The gardens are celebrated. Visit the grottoes in the mountain, if it be only to enjoy the beautiful view, which is, perhaps, unequalled in Egypt. The mummies of the wolf are occasionally found. The remains of the splendid temple of Antaopolis have been sapped and carried away by the stream. A few stones only serve to point out its site at Gau (right bank). Right bank. Shekh Eredi, where a Moslem saint, trans- formed into the form of a serpent, still performs very wonder- ful cures upon those who can pay. Some small grottoes on the left bank. To the west, Loohag, near the corner of the mountain, are remains of Athribi. Inscription in stone, in a ruined temple. Grottoes in the mountain. To the west of this is the white monastery, Deira-bow Sehwoodee. It has very much the appearance of an Egyp- tian temple, having a cornice and tomb, and is supposed to have been founded by the Empress Helena. Like the other Deirs, it is inhabited by Christian peasants. Right bank. At Ekhmin, nearly opposite Loohag, are remains of Panopolis. A large mass of stone contains a Greek inscription of the temple of Pan. Left bank. Menshie, eight miles beyond Ekhmin, re- mains of a stone quarry. Ptolemais Hermii. 70 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. Left bank. Ab\ dus, three hours' ride from Girgeh, and two hours from Bellianeh. Take donkeys at Girgeh and send the boat on to Bellianeh. When last at Abydus, I was entertained for the night at the " Deir," to the north or north-west of the village. The most remarkable monu- ment is what Strabo has described as a " Memnonium," a very singular building, consisting of several parallel arches or arcades, leading, he says, to a tank, now concealed. The arches are not masonic, but cut out of large masses of stone and it is this circumstance which has, in a great measure, given rise to the error, as to the arch not having existed previous to the Augustan era. The building was begun by Osirien, the father of Sesostris, and finished by his son. To the north of the Memnonium, is the small temple of Osiris, built, or at least finished, by Rameses II., and -re- markable for having a sanctuary made of alabaster, for the reception of the famous tablet of the kings, which, next to the Rosetta stone, has been of the greatest assistance to the students of hieroglyphics. The Necropolis has been robbed to form the collections of Salt, Drouetti, and others. Right bank. How (Diospolis parva) few remains vestiges of a temple of late date, and about a mile and a half to the S., of other mounds. Left bank. Dendera (Tentyris) opposite Genneh. The principal temple was consecrated to Haihor, the Egyptian Venus, and not to Isis. The most interesting, as well as most ancient sculptures, are outside, at the western ex- tremity, where we see Cleopatra and her son Casasion. The sculptures above are of the time of Augustus, as are those of the lateral walls of the Naos. The pronaos pre- sents the portraits and names of Cams, Claudius, and Nero, as well as Tibeiius, bv whom it was constructed. KARNAK. 77 The pylon, leading to the temple, is of the time of Domi- tian and Trajan. The Peripteral temple to the right, is the Typhonium, and immediately behind the great temple is a small one consecrated to Isis. The pylon towards the south is connected with the latter, and was raised in the reign of Augustus. The walls of the town, and a second wall for the sacred edifices, may be traced, and there are, I believe, some tombs in the mountain behind the town, that have not been properly explored. Right bank. Quoph, the ancient Coptas ruins of town and temple small Roman-Egyptian temple, in the village of El Qalah, towards the N., forming once a part of Coptas, (Qoos, Apollinopolis parva). No more remains left, but a monolith converted into a tank, and to the north of the town is a well. Thebes (Diospolis magna), on the eastern side, consisting of Karnak and Luxor : the Lybian Suburb on the west bank, consisting of Gormah, Medinet Haboo, the tombs of the kings, queens, &c. KARNAK. At least fifteen centuries combined to raise the great temple, the different ages of the various portions of the edifice being distinctly traceable, from the time of Osortiren 1. (B. c. 1740) to the Ptolemies. On approach- ing the great western propylon, observe the holes (almost like windows, and by some described as such) for fixing the flag-masts, as well as the recesses below, in which they were planted. After looking at the great hall of columns, and the obelisks, &c., notice particularly the granite sanctuary, which is a restoration of one destroyed by the Persians. It 7* THE OVEKLAND GUIDE. was raised by Alexander, in compliance with a vow of Philip. On the sandstone wall that encloses and protects this sanctuary, observe (north wall) a very curious and rich offering, in which a Pharaoh presents to the temple, obelisks, flag-masts, gold, silver, &c. The sculptures deserve par- ticular attention. Those on the outside of the southern wall relate to the conquests of Shishah, who plundered the temple of Jerusalem. The name of the place (Joudamallah) is legible on a cartouche, one of thirty led captives before the god of Thebes. The whole north wall is covered with historical sculp- tures, all of which were originally painted, representing the conquests of Osirien, the father of Sesostris. Some little attention is required to see them well. One group is more curious than the rest: the king has caught his ad- versary with the bow-string, and is decapitating him. Notice the triumphal return to Thebes, and remark the Nile (distinguished by crocodiles) with a bridge thrown across it. To the south of the great temple is a tank, then come several immense propyla, part of an avenue of sphinxes, and lastly some remains of a considerable temple which was surrounded by a lake. To the north are other remains, with a handsome pro- pylon of Ptolemaic date, and an avenue of sphinxes. The temple, second in importance at Karnak, is of the Pharaonic period, but approached by a pylon of Ptolemaic date, at the extremity of the great avenue of sphinxes leading to Luxor. On the right of the first or hypcetheral court, notice a sculpture illustrating the manner in which LUXOR. 79 the flag mast s were raised before the temples. Adjoining this temple, and on its west side, is a small temple of Oph, in which travellers sometimes lodge. From Kamak to Luxor, it is easy to trace the line of sphinxes, which connected the palace of the latter with the temples of the former. Luxor, with the exception of the sanctuary, is entirely Pharaonic, having been founded by Amanoph III., and finished by Rameses II., in the 15th century B.C. The granite sanctuary, like that of Karnak, is a restoration, and of the same age. In one of the halls, approachable from the river side, observe a curious set of sculptures, relative to the birth of the founder of the palace. His mother, the queen, is seated on the stool of accouchement, surrounded by midwives and genii. The latter present him the emblem of life. A little farther on, the infant is presented to and caressed by Amunre; and Thoth, the god of letters, is choosing for him his prenomen, " Sun, Lord of Justice and of Truth." To see the interesting sculptures on the great propylon, it is necessary to visit the palace at an early hour. They relate to the conquests of Barneses II., but much attention is required to make out their details. In the midst of the fortified camp is a lion, the companion of Sesostris in war. Lybian Suburb. To see the tomb of the kings, one night should be passed in the valley of Biban el Melook ; but the entrance of one of the excavations affords sufficient accom- modation. That of Belzoni is usually preferred. Belzoni's tomb (that of Osirien, whose conquests are de- 80 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. picted on the north side of the great temple of Karnak) is the most magnificent ; next to that, the tomb of Rameses III. is the most interesting. It is near an angle of the rock, and will be readily distinguished by the recesses on either side of the principal shaft. These little cabinets contain some exceedingly curious sculptures or paintings, and it is from one of them that Bruce drew his harp scene. The tombs of the queens are in a separate valley, to the west of Mehdenet Habor. At Goorneh (old Goorneh) is the palace of Osirien. In the Aposiet are some remains of a very ancient temple, of which a portion is cut in the rock, an arch (not masonic) very similar to those of Abydus. Between the Aposiet and the Memnonium are many tombs deserving attention. The Memnonium (now perhaps more properly called the Rameseion, i.e., "Rameseseion," the "heuse of Rameses") is the most uniform and elegant of Egyptian structures. Pay particular attention to all the battle scenes, to the im- mense statue of Rameses II., supposed to have weighed nearly a thousand tons, to the circumstance of the bases of the columns of the hepastyle being made seats to a very remarkable sculpture at the western extremity of the hall to the private apartments which follow the Pharaoh seated in the sacred Persia the next apartment, supposed to be the library traces of gilding on the doorways, &c. TJie Colossi in the Plain. Of these the northern one is the vocal statue of the ancients. It is of Amunoph III., the founder of Luxor, who reigned in the 15th century, B.C. Wilkinson discovered the means of deception ; a stone, which, when struck, produces a sound similar to MEHDENET HABOR. 81 that described by Strabo or Pausanias, is still to be found in the lap. The other statue bears the same cartouches, and both are supposed by Wilkinson to have stood at the commencement of a dromio or avenue of the sphinxes running nearly twelve hundred feet towards an indistinct mass of buildings now called Kom el Hattan. Champollion and some architects suppose that they stood before a propylon. Mehdenet Habor. A temple-palace, a private palace or harem, and a temple. The harem is very interesting, but partly destroyed. It consists principally of a pavilion in advance of the palace, and in it are some curious sculp- tures, among which the king is represented playing chess with his ladies. A ladder is necessary. The great temple-palace is remarkable not only for its architecture, but for the sculptures representing the conquests of Rameses III. (about the 13th century, B.C.) These are particularly remarkable in the hypcetheral court, where there is exhibited, in the northern side, a magnificent pageant, the coronation of the Pharaoh. The whole ex- terior of the northern side of the building is covered with battle scenes. Among the heaps of hands poured out be- fore the conqueror are lions 1 paws. There are also heaps of phalia. The great lake, for the ceremonies of the dead (the hippodrome of the French savans), will be best distin- guished from the top of the pavilion. There are several other remains, and tombs without number. There is no trace, whatever, of a wall of circumvallation, though the crude brick enclosures of the temples still remain. E 5 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. We add to the foregoing, the observations of other writers upon the subject of some of the most interesting of these wondrous antiquities. LUXOR. In approaching this temple from the north, the first object is a magnificent propylon, or gateway, which is two hundred feet in length, and the top of it fifty-seven feet above the present level of the soil. In front of the entrance are the two most perfect obelisks in the world, each of a single block of red granite, from the quarries of Elephantine ; they are between seven and eight feet square at the base, and above eighty feet high ; many of the hieroglyphical figures with which they are covered are an inch and three quarters deep, cut with the greatest pre- cision. Between these obelisks and the propylon are two- colossal statues, also of red granite ; though buried in the ground to the chest, they still measure twenty-one and twenty-two feet from thence to the top of their mitres. The attention of the traveller is soon diverted from these masses to the sculptures which cover the eastern wing of the north front of the propylon, on which is a very animated description of a remarkable event in the campaigns of Osyrnandrias or Sesostris. The ruined portico, which is entered from the gateway, is of very large dimensions ; from this a double row of seven columns, with lotus capitals, two- and-thirty feet in circumference, conducts you into a court r one hundred and sixty feet long, and one hundred arid forty wide, terminating at each side by a row of columns, beyond which is another portico of thirty-two columns, and the adytum, or interior apartments of the building. The temple of Luxor was probably built on the banks of the Nile, for the convenience of sailors and wayfaring men ; where, without much loss of time, they might stop, KARNAK. 83 say their prayers, present their offerings, c. Great and magnificent as it is, it only serves to show us the way to a much greater, to which it is hardly more in comparison than a kind of porter's lodge ; I mean the splendid ruin of the temple at Karnak. The distance from Luxor to Karnak is about a mile and a half, or two miles. The whole road was formerly lined with a row of sphinxes on each side. At present these are entirely covered up for about two- thirds of the way, on the end nearest to Luxor. On the latter part of the road, near Karnak, a row of criosphinxes (that is, with a ram's head and a lion's body), still exist on each side of the way. KARNAK. The name of Diospolis is sufficient to entitle us to call the grand temple at Karnak the temple of Jupiter. This temple has twelve principal entrances, each of which is composed of several propyla and colossal gate- ways, or moles, besides other buildings attached to them, in themselves larger than most other temples. One of the propyla is entirely of granite, adorned with the most finished hieroglyphics. On each side of many of them have been colossal statues of basalt, breccia and granite ; some sitting, some erect, from twenty to thirty feet in height. The body of the temple, which is preceded by a large court, at the sides of which are colonnades of thirty columns in length, and through the middle of which are two rows of columns fifty feet high, consisting, first of a prodigious hall, or portico, the roof of which is sustained by one hundred and thirty-four columns, some of which are twenty-six feet in circumference, and others thirty- four ; there are four beautiful obelisks marking the entrance by the adytum, near which the monarch is represented as embraced by the arms of Isis. 84 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. The adytum itseli consists of three apartments, entirely of granite. The principal room, which is in the centre, is twenty feet long, sixteen wide, and thirteen feet high. Three blocks of granite form the roof, which is painted with clusters of gilt stars on a blue ground. Beyond are other porticoes and galleries, which have been continued to another propylou, at the distance of two thousand feet from that at the western extremity of the temple. It may not be uninteresting to add a few particulars relative to this temple, the largest, perhaps, and certainly one of the most ancient, in the world. Two of the porticoes within it appear to have consisted of pillars in the form of human figures, in the character of Hermes, that is, the lower part of the body hidden, and unshapen, with his arms folded, and in his hand the in- signia of divinity ; perhaps the real origin of the Grecian Caryatides. Exclusive of these columnar statues, which have been thirty-eight in number, and the least of them thirty feet high, there are fragments, more or less mutilated, of twenty-three other statues, in granite, breccia and basalt : seventeen of which are colossal, and have been placed in front of the several entrances. They are in general from twenty-five to thirty feet in height, and executed in the best Egyptian style. BlBAN-OOL-MoOLK, OR, THE TOMBS OF THE KlNGS, IS B most dismal-looking spot, a valley of rubbish, without a drop of water or blade of grass. The entrance to the tombs looks out from the rock like the entrance to so many mines ; and, were it not for the recollections with which it BIBAN-OOL-MOOLK. 85 is peopled, and the beautiful remains of ancient art which lie hid in the bosom of the mountain, would hardly ever be visited by man or beast. The heat is excessive, from the confined dimensions of the valley and the reflection of the sun from the rock and sand. The whole valley is filled with rubbish that has been washed down from the rock or carried out in the making of the tombs, with merely a narrow road up the centre. Diodorus Siculus states, on the authority of the Egyp- tian priests, that forty-seven of these tombs were entered in their sacred registers, only seventeen of which remained in the time of Ptolemy Lagus. And in the 180th Olym- piad, about 60 years B.C., when Diodorus Siculus was in Egypt, many of these were greatly defaced. Before Mr. Belzoni began his operations in Thebes, only eleven of these tombs were known to the public. From the great success that crowned his exertions, the number of them is nearly double. The general appearance of these tombs is that of a continued shaft, or corridor, cut in the rock, in some places spreading out into large chambers ; in other places, small chambers pass off by a door from the shafts. &c. In some places, where the rock is low and disinte- grated, a broad excavation is formed on the surface, till it reaches a sufficient depth of solid stones, when it narrows, and enters by a door of about six or eight feet wide, and about ten feet high. The passage then proceeds with a gradual descent for about a hundred feet, widening or narrowing, according to the plan or object of the architect, sometimes with side chambers, but more frequently not. The beautiful orna- ment of the globe, with the serpent in its wings, is sculp- tured over the entrance. The ceiling is black, with silver stars, and the vulture, with outspread wings, holding a 86 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. ring and a broad-feathered sceptre by each of his feet, is frequently repeated on it, with numerous hieroglyphics, which are white or variously-coloured. The walls on each side are covered with hieroglyphics, and large sculptured figures of the deities of Egypt, and of the hero for whom the tomb was excavated. Sometimes both the hiero- glyphics and the figures are wrought in intaglio ; at other times they are in relief ; but throughout the same tomb they are generally all of one kind. The colours are green, blue, red, black and yellow, and, in many instances, are as fresh and vivid as if they had not been laid on a month. Intermixed with the figures, we frequently meet with curious devices, representing tribunals where people are upon their trials, sometimes undergoing punishment ; the preparation of mummies, and people bearing them in pro- cession on their shoulders ; animals tied for sacrifice, and partly cut up; and occasionally the more agreeable pic- tures of entertainments, with music and dancing, and well- dressed people listening to the sound of the harp- played by a priest, with his head shaved, and dressed in a loose, flowing white robe, shot with red stripes. Two other colossal statues, called also by some the statues of Memnon, are in the plain, about half-way be- tween the desert and the river. They are about fifty feet high, and seated each on a pedestal six feet in height, eighteen long, and fourteen broad. The stone of which they are formed is of a reddish grey. These two statues are by the Arabs familiarly called Shamy and Damy. MEMNONIUM. 87 MEDINET HABOO. One outward inclosure, or brick wall, seems to have contained three distinct, though con- nected, buildings, to which we may arbitrarily assign the names of the chapel, the palace and the temple. The principal entrance to the palace from the plain being blocked up, it is only to be approached now by a side doorway from the pronaos of the chapel. Of this building, which may once have been the residence of the sovereigns of Egypt, one tower only is remaining. This was divided into three stories, in each of which are two apartments. The stone pavement of the lower rooms is still perfect, but the upper floors and the wooden beams which supported them have entirely disappeared. The interior walls have not such a profusion of sculptures as those without. At each side of one of the windows is an Isis, with the hawk's wing, kneeling, and wearing the lunar crescent on her head. At another window are four projecting sphinxes ; and in a corner of one of the rooms are two females, with baskets of lotuses on their heads, carrying a plate of cakes to the king, who is sitting ; before him stands another female, with the same head-dress, stretching out her arm, while he puts some of the delicacies into his mouth. Ebek, the most northern of all the Theban monuments, is only remarkable because the plan on which it is con- structed is very different from that of all other temples in Egypt. It has a single row of columns in front, and the rest of the building is distributed into a variety of com- paratively small apartments. MEMNONIUM. The term Memnonium is used by Strabo to designate that part of ancient Thebes which lies on the western side of the river. The French savans, however, without sufficient reason, have restricted it to the magni- 88 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. ficent ruin which ^e are going to describe. This beau- tiful relic of antiquity looks to the east, and is fronted by a stupendous propylon, of which two ^hundred and thirty- four feet in length are still remaining. The propylon stands on the edge of the soil ; but the area cultivable, or space for the dromos behind it, is floored by the solid rock, on which the rest of the temple is erected. The eastern wall is much faDeu down, and both ends are greatly dilapidated. Every stone in the propylon appears to have been shaken and loosened in its place, as if from the concussion of an earthquake, for no human violence seems adequate to produce such an effect in such an immense mass of building as that under consideration. A stair enters from each end, by which to ascend to the top of the propylon, from which passages go off in a num- ber of chambers, as in the temples of Phylas Edifore, &c. This colossus measures six feet ten inches over the foot, and sixty-two or sixty-three feet round the shoulders. It has been broken off at the waist, and the upper part is laid prostrate on the back ; the face is entirely obliterated, and, next to the wonder excited at the boldness of the sculptor who made it, and the extraordinary powers of those who erected it, the labour and exertions that must have been used for its destruction, are most astonishing. It could only have been brought about with the help of military engines, and must then have been the work of time. Its fall has earned along with it the whole of the wall of the temple which stood within its reach. It was not without great difficulty and danger that we could climb on its shoulder and neck, and in going from thence upon its chest, assisted by Arab servants. DENDERA. 89 DENDERA. The centuries that this great temple of Veuus has seen have scarcely affected it in any important part ; and have given it no greater appearance of age and ruin than what serves to render it more venerable and imposing. After seeing innumerable monuments of the same kind throughout the Thebaid, it seemed as if we were now arrived at the highest pitch of architectural excellence that was ever attained on the borders of the Nile. Here we found concentrated the united labour of ages, and the last effort of human art and industry in that regular uniform line of construction, which had been adopted in the earliest times. After admiring the general effect of the whole mass, its elegance, solidity, correct proportions and graceful outlines, it was difficult to decide what particular objects were to be first examined. Whether its sculptures or paintings, typical and ornamental, the distribution of the interior apartments, the details of the capitals and columns, the mystical meaning of particular representations here seen for the first time ; the zodiacs,* or the other celestial phenomena, sculptured on the ceilings, all seemed objects of high interest and importance, all in- vited a nearer and closer inspection. The portico consists of twenty-four columns in three rows, each above twenty- two feet in circumference, thirty-two high, and covered with hieroglyphics. The peculiar form of the square capital, with a front face of the goddess on each side, particularly attracted our attention. We were at first struck by the singularity of an idea so foreign to the common notions of Greek architecture ; but the eye is soon reconciled to it ; and the solemn and mild monotony of these faces impresses the spectator with a silent, reverential awe, a willing convic- tion of the immediate presence of the deity of the place in her most gracious character ; and, indeed, the Greeks, in * The principal zodiac has since been removed. 90 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. their Caryatides, seem in some degree to have added their sanction to the principle. The sekos, or the interior of the temple, consists of several apartments, all the walls and ceilings of which are in the same way covered with religious and astronomical representations. The roofs are, like the rest in Egypt, flat ; the oblong masses of stone resting on the side walls ; and, when the distance of these is too great, one or two rows of the columns are carried down the middle of the apartment, by which the roof is supported. The capitals of these columns are very richly ornamented with the budding lotus, the stalks of which being carried down some way below the capital, give the shaft the appear- ance of being fluted, or rather scolloped. The following, gleaned from other sources, will, perhaps, be also acceptable as a guide to the sight-seer. No person ought to leave Egypt without visiting Asso- wan and Philoe, particularly if he go up as high as Thebes ; for he can form no correct judgment of Egypt and her wonderful and gigantic works, unless he sees the temples and shrubberies at Esireh Fdjou, Koon, Ombes, Assowan, and Philoe, as well as those in the Thebaid and at Tentyra. By traversing Egypt from Alexandria to Assowan, you can with ease inspect all those wonderful remains of labour and art, unequalled in the world for extent or size as architec- tural works, and which, to the mind of the observer, place beyond doubt the wealth, the power, the science, and great population of ancient Egypt. To attempt to convey to a person who has not seen structures of the kind, any idea of what these ruins are, is out of the question. In the granite quarries at Assowan, from whence these immense monuments were taken, are two unfinished sarcophagi and BENDEBA. 91 an obelisk cut and formed, but still attached to the native rock. The obelisk is shaped out and cut round on all sides except its under one, a bed which still attaches it to the rock. It measures 76 feet in length, and 12 feet broad, and in depth to the drift-sand in which it has imbedded itself 6 feet thick. The marks of the workman's chisel and wedge, with which instruments, it appears, these im- mense masses have been disjoined from the native rock, are as fresh as if they had been applied but yesterday. It is inconceivable how such entire masses could have been taken from their bed to the Nile, a distance of at least a mile and a half, and from thence transported to where we see them still standing, seventy, eighty, and ninety feet in height, and eight, ten and twelve feet square at the base, as at Luxor, Karnak, Helipolis, Frorun, and at Alexandria, covered with deeply engraved figures and hieroglyphics, in some places still bearing a glossy and fresh polish. In the island of Philce there are some beautiful and extensive remains of Egyptian, as also one of Grecian, architecture. Leaving Luxor in the night of the third of May, we arrived at Khenneh the following day, and, after visiting the temple of Hentyra or of Isis, on the opposite bank of the Nile, and remaining an hour or two at Khenneh, we left that place for Cairo, where we arrived 011 the sixteenth of the same month . Passing through the palm-tree grove which covers the high ridge, or mound, formed by the ruins of the ancient Memphis, the traveller approaches a small open circular plain, which is supposed to have been the Archerusian Lake of the city; on the south side of this, the large colossal statue of Sesostris is to be seen. It was discovered and laid open by Mr. Sloane and M. Coriglier, and is the most perfect statue in Egypt, and the most beautifully formed. It lies with its face downwards. It is broken off 92 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. below the ankle, und the entire length of the block now remaining is thirty-six feet six inches. The ruins of the edifice before which it had stood are apparent under the rubbish which surrounds the place. The ancient Necro- polis of Paccachia, or, as some writers suppose, of the city of Memphis, extends for miles round the pyramids. In- deed, from the pyramids of Dashores to those of Cheops and Copprieves, is one continued burying-ground. The pyramids of Dashores, as well as those of Saccachara, and the excavations and tombs in the rocks, may be inspected in one day. We landed at Goza, and took donkeys, and passed the day in visiting the large pyramids. The follow- ing morning we passed the island of Rhode, visited the Nilometer, and, after sailing down about half a mile, and passing the aqueducts of Lubuddia, about one-hundred yards, landed again on the island, and entered the gardens of Ibrahim Pacha. Another writer gives the following outline of the inte- resting sights to be seen on the Nile. On the eastern bank, eight miles to the south of Cairo, quarries of Maasara, from which the stone used for part of the casing of the pyramids was taken. Some hieroglyphic tablets, in one of which oxen are represented drawing a stone placed on a sledge. A little beyond the modern village is an inclined road, which leads from the quarries to the river. Thirty miles further to the south, on the same bank, is Atf eeh, mounds of Aphroditopolis, no ruins. False pyramid on opposite bank, three miles beyond El Feshu, and on eastern bank, remains of crude brick, the walls of an ancient village, called El Heebee and some hieroglyphics. From Beuisooef is the road to the Fvoom, which, when THE NILE. 93 the Nile is low, may be visited conveniently. A brick pyramid at Illahoon, another at El Howara, and vestiges of the labyrinth, obelisk at Biggig, ruins on and near the lake Mceris, and at Qasr Kharoon. From Aboogirgeh is the shortest road to Bahnasa (Oxyriuchus) mounds, no ruius, Gebel e Tayr, north-end, grotto or rock temple, called Babyn, convent further to the south ; eight miles below Minyeh is Tehneh (Acoris) on eastern bank, a Greek Ptolemaic inscription on the face of the cliff, tombs hewn in the rock, with small inscriptions at the doors, Roman figures in high relief, on the upper part of the rock, some hieroglyphic tablets, quarries on the top of the mountain, a tank, &c. Same (eastern bank) seven miles above Minyeh, Komah- niar, some grottoes, and ruins of an old town ; nine miles farther (eastern bank), Beni Hassan, very fine grottoes, with curious paintings; and about a mile and a half farther, a grotto, or rock temple, of Pasht (Bubastis, or Diana), the Speos Artemidos, cat mummies in the ravine. Antinoe, now Shekh Abadeh, few remains of the town, a theatre, the principal streets, ba.ths, &c., outside the town, on the east, is the hippodrome. The grottoes in the mountain are unsculptured, and have some Christian in- scriptions. A little to the north of Antinoe are the remains, apparently, of Besa, scarcely worthy of a visit. At El Bersheh, a grotto on the mountain, in which a colossus is represented on a sledge. At Oshmoonayn (western bank) no remains of Hermopolis Magna. At Gebel Toona, a mountain, skirting the desert to the west are mummy-pits, a tablet of hieroglyphics, and statues in high relief. At Mellawee, and at Tamoof Tanis, superior mounds, but no ruins. At Shayda, at corner of moun- 94 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. tains, on eastern bank, crude brick walls, and some grottoes. At Shekh Said, the mountains recede to the eastward, leaving the river, and a little beyond is the village of Tel el Armarnar, to the north of which are the remains of a small town, and to the south the ruins of a city, which I suppose to be Alabastron: all the stone buildings have been quite destroyed, but some of the brick houses remain ; near the crude brick towers of the temple are the largest houses. To the east are several fine grottoes in the face of the mountain, with curious sculptures, and on the" summit of it is an ancient alabaster quarry. Six miles below Mau- faloot, at El Haryib, ruins of an old town, in a ravine of the Gebel Aboolfaydee; numerous dog and cat mummies, near El Maabdeh, opposite Maufaloot; crocodile mummies in chambers of great extent in the mountain. At E'Sioot (Lycopolis), the capital of Upper Egypt, grottoes, wolf mummies ; the modern cemetery is prettily laid out. Gow (Antaepolis) a few stones of the temple, close to the river ; some grottoes at the corner of the mountain, to the north, below Gow, but not containing good sculp- tures. Shekh Hereedee, small grottoes ; Roman statue at the base of the mountain, cut out of a piece of a rock. The snake of Shekh Hereedee is still supposed to perform cures. To the west of Soohag, near the corner of mountains, old town of Athribes, a Greek inscription in the ruined temple, grottoes in the mountain; and to the north is the white monasteiy, or Dayr Amba Shuoodee, nearly opposite Soohag is E'Khmim (Panopolis) Greek inscription of the temple of Pan, and some remains of other stone buildings. THE NILE. 95 Mensheeli (Ptolemais Hermii), western bank, eight miles above E'Khnrim, remains of a stone quay. From Girgh go to Abydos, three hours ride, and send on the boat to Bel- lianeh, returning to it in the evening, two hours ride; or, coming down the river, stop at Bellianeh, and send on the boat to G-irgeh. At Abydos two temples and many tombs. How (Diospolis parva) has very few remains of Ptolemaic or Roman time. In mounds at the ridge of the desert, a mile and a half south of How, some tombs ; one of Dionysius, son of Ptolemy, has some sculpture. Qasr e Syad (Chenoboscion), remains of a quay ; about one mile beyond the eastern mouth of the canal of this village, are some very ancient grottoes, with kings' names. Den- dera (Teutyris) opposite Qeneh, two temples, inscriptions, zodiac, &c. Qeneh is famous for its manufacture of porous jars ; from it, roads lead to Kossayr on the Red Sea. Qoft (Coptos), ruins of the old town, and of a temple, a Christian church, canals, &c. ; at the village of El Qala, to the north, is a small Roman Egyptian temple. Qoos (Apollinopolis parva), no more ruins left; at a well on the north of the town is a Ptolemaic monolith, with hieroglyphics, converted into a tank, and a few stone re- mains of early time in the plain to the west, near a Shekh's tomb. Thebes (Diospolis magna), on the eastern bank, Karnac and Lugsor; on the west, the tombs of the kings, private tombs, several temples, colossi of the plain, &c. Erment (Hermonthis), west bank, temple and early Christian church. Tuot, or E'Selemeeh (Tuphium) on eastern bank, Ptolemy temple, much ruined, and con- cealed by the hovels of the peasant. Gebelaun, i. e., " the 96 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. two hills,'' a small ancient town in ruins, and grottoes, not worthy of a visit. At Tofnees and Assfoon, mounds of ancient towns, no ruins. Esneh (Latopolis), fine portico, zodiac and quay. At Edayr, three miles to the north of Esneh, remains of a small temple of the Ptolemies and Caesars, lately de- stroyed. Thirteen miles from Esneh, near El Qenan, ruins of a quay ; on west bank and three miles farther, a small stone pyramid, opposite the quay, is the junction of the limestone and sandstone. Four miles beyond, on eastern bank, is El Kab (Eilethyas), ruins of a very ancient town, the temples lately destroyed, curious grottoes in the moun- tain, and a short distance up the valley are three small temples. In the bed of the ravine are ponds encrusted with natron. Edfoo (Apollinopolis magna) two temples. Eleven miles above Edfoo, and on the eastern bank, remains of an old town, on face of hill, fortified with towers of Arab construc- tion. Silsilis (now Hagar Silsili), quarries of sandstone, used for building the temples of Upper Egypt, tables and grottoes. Komombo (Ombos), two temples ; ancient stone gateway, in a crude brickwall on the eastern side of the en- closure of the temples ; houses burnt. At E'Sooan (Syene), ruins of a small temple of Roman date, some columns, Saracen wall, and Cufic tombstones ; granite quarries, in one of which is a broken obelisk ; Latin Inscription of Caracalla near another quarry ; road to Philse, and wall ; numerous hieroglyphic tables on the rocks. Island of Elephantine ; opposite the projecting rocks of E'Sooan is the Xilometer, which is a staircase, with Greek inscriptions relating to the rise of the Nile. Granite gateway, bearing the name of Alexander, the son of Alexander the Great. NUBIA, 07 At the northern end of the cataract, in the island of Sehayl, few vestiges of a temple ; hieroglyphic tablets on the rocks. Go from E'Sooan to Sehayl in a boat, and ride to Philse. At Philas, temples and ruins. Islands of Biggeh, opposite Philae, to the west, ruined temple, tablets, &c., &c. NUBIA. D ABODE (Parembole), temple, west bank. Kerdassy, ruins and quarries. Tafa (Taphis), two small ruins, and stone enclosures. Kalabshee (Talmis), large temple, quarries, and, on hill behind it, to the northward, a small, but in- teresting temple, called Bayt el Wellee, cut in the rock. Dandoor, temple. Gerf Hossayn (Tutzis), temple, cut in the rock, of the time of Rameses II. Dakkeh (Pselcis), temple of Ptolemaic and Roman date; It has also the names of two Ethiopian princes, Erganmn, or Ergamenes (mentioned by Diodorus, iii. 6, as a contem- porary of Ptolemy Philadelphus), and Ataramun ; many Greek inscriptions. Opposite Dakkeh, ruins of Contra Pselcis, or of Metacompso. Corte (Corti), few remains. Maharraka, or Oofideena, ruins of Hierasycamenon, style bad, and all of late date. Isis is represented under the fig-tree. Taboaa, temple of the time of Rameses II., with avenue of sphinxes ; the adytum is cut in the rock, the rest built. Hassain, or Amada, a temple of Thothmes, ancient, nearly opposite to it in Dayr or Derr, on east bank, the capital of Nubia, F 98 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. which has a temple cut in the rock, of the time of Ra- meses II. Ibreem (Primis parva), part of the ancient wall on south side of town; remains of a stone building amidst the houses ; some small grottoes below the town near the river. Aboosimbel, two temples cut in the rock, the finest Egyp- tian monuments out of Thebes ; they are of the time of Eameses II. At Ferayg, nearly opposite, on east bank, a small temple in the rock. Farras, on west bank, few remains ; grottoes with Coptic inscriptions, some distance from the river. Wadee Alfeh, remains of three buildings on west bank; fine view of the second cataract from a rock on the same bank, a short walk to the south of Wadee Halfeh. A day and a half beyond Wadee Halfeh are the two small temples of Samneh and the third cataract. The distances from the Mediterranean to the second cataract are as follow : From Rosetta to Cairo about 110 miles. Cairo Benisoef 83 Benisoef Minyeh 85 Minyeh E'Sivot 106 E'Sivot Girgeh 97 Girgeh Qeneh 79 Qeneh Thebes 49 Thebes Esneh. 38 Esneh Esooan 100 Esooan Wadee Halfeh . . 219 Total from Rosetta to Wadee Halfeh . 960 miles. It may be interesting to the sportsman to know that, NUBIA. 99 in the course of his river trip, he will occasionally find " food for powder." Game is by no means abundant, but here and there a random shot may be had at a gazelle ; coveys of partridges have been seen ; rock-pigeons are numerous ; and the rifle may afford some sport in the land of crocodiles. The gazelle, ibex, kebsh (or wild sheep), hare, fox, jackal, wolf, and hyaena, are still found in the valley of the Nile, or in the desert. The "kebsh" frequents the eastern desert, principally in the ranges of primitive mountains, which, commencing about latitude 28 40' at the back of the limestone hills of the valley of the Nile, extend thence into Ethiopia and Abyssinia. The Egyptian hare is a native of the valley of the Nile, as well as the two deserts. It is remarkable for the length of its ears, which the Egyptians have not failed to indicate in their sculptures ; but it is much smaller than those of Europe. The intelligent Denon has made a just remark on the comparative size of animals common to Egypt and Europe, that the former are always smaller than our own species, and this is exemplified by none more strongly than the hare and wolf. In enumerating the wild beasts of the desert, it may not be irrelevant to observe, that the hyaena and wolf are seldom met with in unfrequented districts, or any great distance from the Nile, where they would suffer from want of food, and are therefore principally confined to the mountains lying a few miles from the edge of the culti- 100 THE OVERLAND GUIDE. vated land. The wolf is very rarely seen on the coast of the Red Sea, and few even of the watering-places of the interior of the desert are infested by it, or the hysena. The hippopotamus was always rare in Lower Egypt, but in Upper Ethiopia this amphibious animal is common in the Nile. The crocodile, formerly an inhabitant of Lower Egypt and the Delta, now limits the extent of its visits northward to the districts about Inanfaloot. APPENDIX (A). As a guide to the cost of a berth, or cabin, it is only neces- sary to mention the rates at which passengers can be accom- modated, according to the berth or cabin they occupy. FEOM ENGLAND TO ... 1 s u d Calcutta. ! cu Singapore. Hong Kong For a Gentleman, occupy- \ ing a berth in one [ of the general gen- | 77 113 118 127 134 142 165 tlemen's cabins ' For a Lady, occupying a \ berth in one of the I general ladies' ca- j 82 122 127 136 143 152 175 bins . . . . ) For a Gentleman and Ms ~i Wife. A whole ca- > 214 290 299 317 332 350 396 bin throughout. J Occupying one of "J the best reserved V cabins throughout J 259 335 344 362 377 395 441 Fora Child with the Parent, 5 years and under 10 50 65 70 80 70 75 85 2 years and under 5 35 45 50 60 50 55 65 Not exceeding 2 years Free Free Free Free Free Tree Tree For Servants European Female 37 46 52 62 52 57 67 Male 35 44 50 60 50 55 65 Native Female 30 32 38 44 39 44 49 Male 26 28 34 40 35 40 45 The above charges include every expense, except hotel expenses in Egypt, and -wines, beer, and spirits, while pass- ing between Alexandria and Suez. (See p. 38.) APPENDICES. For an estimate of the expense of proceeding from Suez to Bombay, the reader is referred to the East India Com- pany's Regulations, p. 39; see also James Barber and Co.'s Circular. APPENDIX (B.) TARIFF OF DUTIES WHICH ARE LEVIED ON THE IMPORTATION OF THE FOLLOWING ARTICLES : NOTWITHSTANDING the advice already given in this little volume, we repeat that passengers would always save them- selves much trouble, and, by facilitating the examination of luggage, their fellow-travellers great delay, if they would take the precaution to pack goods liable to duty in a separate case, marked " duty goods," and leave it in charge of Mr. Hill, the ' Peninsular and Oriental Company's" custom-house agent at Southampton, who always goes on board the steamer on its arrival, and who will punctually forward it as directed. They should, at the same time, deliver to Mr. Hill a list of the con- tents and the value of each article, bearing in mind that duty is chargeable on the value of the article in England, without reference to its cost price, and that, provided the revenue officer does not approve of the declared value made by the owner of the goods, he can seize the same, in which case, the declared value, with an additional ten per cent., is paid to the owner. APPENDICES. 103 As a general guide, it is recommended that the cost price be given to Mr. Hill, and that he be left to estimate the duty, his great experience qualifying him to do so. Cotton must not be used for packing goods of any descrip- tion by the Overland Koute ; it occasions great difficulty, and subjects them to seizure, under the quarantine laws. Ad valorem duty. s. d. MUSLINS, embroidered - per cent. 15 BOMBAY MANUFACTUEE, cases or boxes, of similar description per cent. 10 BEOCADE, of gold and silver - 1000 AETICLES OF WOOL manufactured, made up 10 WOOLLEN MANUFACTUEES, broad stuffs free IVOEY MANUFACTUEES, or tortoise-shell and furniture - per cent. 10 CONDIMENTS, CUEEY, &c. 10 GEASS-CLOTH - 10 MANUFACTUED SKINS 10 and B. P. 5 UNMANUFACTUEED SKINS - free SHAWLS, Cachmere - - 10 and B. P. 5 MUSLIN, plain - free SKINS, tiger, dressed - free FEATHEES, ostrich, dressed, per tb. 1 10s. and 5 percent. ,, undressed free PADDY-BIED - Is. and 5 per cent. If several are put together, and can be called manufactured, on value - percent. 10 CIGARS per tb. 9s. and 5 per cent. SNUFF - 6s. and 5 per cent. SILVEE Is. 6d. per oz., and on value 10 per cent. 0100 104 APPENDICES. s. d. SWEETMEATS - B. P. Id. per flb., foreign 006 PICKLES, in vinegar - per gall. 004 or vegetables, in salt and water 5 per cent. s. d. AGATES or COKNELIANS, not set - free set or cut - 10 BOOKS, of editions printed prior to 1801, the cwt. 1 and 5 per cent. of editions printed in or since 1 80 1 , in foreign living languages 2 10s. in the dead languages, or in the Eng- lish language, printed out of Eng- land in or since 1801 - 5 and (N.B. Pirated editions of English works, of which the copyright exists in England, are totally prohibited. ) BOOKS, English, printed in England (unless declared that no excise drawback was received on exportation) per cwt. 5 and 5 per cent. CAMEOS - - per cent. 500 CHINA or POKCELAIN, plain or white $ \(\ painted or gilt - ( CIGARS (under 3 ft only allowed in a pas- senger's baggage) from the Con- tinent the ft 090 Under 7 ft> allowed from East Indies. (N.B. If a greater quantity, a declara- tion required that they are for private use, and a petition to Customs for permission to import.) APPENDICES. 105 s. d. CLOCKS (must have maker's name on face and on works) - - per cent. 10 WATCHES, (ditto ditto) 10 and 5 per cent. COBDIALS and LIQUEURS (for the bottles, see WINE) - per gal. 1 10 4 COTTON, articles made up of per cent. 10 and B. P. 5 EAU DE COLOGNE, in flasks the flask 010 (N.B. If in other than ordinary flasks, 30s. 4d. the gal. and the bottle-duty.) EMBROIDERY and NEEDLEWORK - percent. 15 FLOWER ROOTS free FLOWERS, Artificial - 25 FURNITURE 10 FRAMES, for pictures, &c. - 10 and 5 per cent. FURS and SKINS DRESSED, made up 10 and P. B. 5 in pieces, not made up free GLASS, flint or cut - %d. per Ib. JEWELLERY - per cent. 10 JAPANNED or LACQUERED WARE - ,, 10 MAPS or CHARTS, plain or coloured, each map or part thereof free MAGNA GR^CIA WARE, or ancient earthen vases free MEDALS, silver, or any sort MODELS, of cork or wood ,, MINERALS and Fossils, or specimens of ,, MUSICAL INSTRUMENTS - 10 MOCK PEARLS - - 10 MARBLE, manufactured - the cwt. 3s. and 500 and B. P. 1 6 F5 106 APPENDICES. s. d. MOSAIC WORK, STONE and SLATE hewn per ton 10s. and per cent. 500 and from B. P. Is. and 11s. per cent. ,, small ornaments for jewellery, per cent. 10 PRINTS and DRAWINGS, plain or coloured, single each Id. and 5 per cent, bound or sewn the dozen 3d. PICTURES each Is. Od. and further, the square foot Is. ,, being 200 square feet and upwards each 10 and 5 per cent. PAINTINGS ON GLASS - the superficial foot 009 PLATE, of gold or silver, gilt or ungilt, per cent. 10 and 5 per cent. ,, also the stamp-duty. If intended for sale, it must be assayed, under the penalties and forfeiture regulating the standard for plate in England per oz. 1 6 SEEDS, garden the tb. free SILK, MILLINERY, turbans or caps - each 036 hats or bonnets 070 dresses - 1 10 SILK HANGINGS, and other manufactures of silk percent. 15 TOYS 10 and 5 per cent. VELVET, plain (produce of Europe) the lb. - 9 figured -090 ,, otherwise - 15 per cent. WINE and SPIRITS, viz. : Wine, in casks, all except Cape, the gallon, 5s. 6d. and 5 per cent, in bottles, six to the gallon, 5s. 6d. and 5 per cent, and further, on the bottles the cwt. 009 APPENDICES. 107 & S. d. SPIRITS, in casks, must not be imported under twenty gallons the gal. 1 210 in bottles, the additional duty for the bottles, as wine bottles. THE FOLLOWING MAY BE IMPOETED FREE OF DUTY. BULLION, COINS and MEDALS of gold or silver, and battered PLATE. DIAMONDS. LIVE CREATURES, and other specimens illustrative of Na- tural History. PICTURES, SKETCHES and DRAWINGS, on a declaration by the proprietor (being a British subject), that they are of his. or her performance and not intended for sale. PLANTS and TREES, alive. SPECIMENS OF MINERALS, FOSSILS or ORES. 108 APPENDIX (C). It may be useful, as a reference, to give the distances of the different stations in India from each presidency. Miles distant from! Miles distant from STATIONS. Cal- Ma- Bom- STATIONS. Cal- Ma- Bom- cutta. dras bay. cutta. drat. bay. Agra 796 1238 755 Beana 1050 1292 808 Ahmedabad 1219 1050 3*4 Beauleah 145 1135 1345 Ahmednuggur 1033 664 162|Behar 340 1324 1120 Ahtoor 1232 186 779) Beerbhoom 127 1118 1279 Ajmere 1035 1272 677 Bejapore 1173 482 280 Akola 829 694 349 Belgaum 1294 519 318 Akulcote 1185 557 269 Bellary 1090 316 446 Akvab 548 1611 1745 Benares 428 1151 927 Allahabad 498 1151 831 'Berhampore 118 1138 1290 Alleppee 1475 470 805 Berhampore (Mad.) 382 682 1015 Allyghur 816 1321 810 jBeawur 1000 1287 692 Allynuggur 416 1139 920 Bezoarah 786 275 603 Almorah 896 1443 1013 Bhaugulpore 268 1288 1202 Amulnair 1078 829 231 Bhewndy 202 774 34 Anantapore 1068 293 507 Bhilsah 877 973 521 Anjunwel 1240 636 149 Bhoolooah 293 1356 1478 Anopshuhur 856 1329 866 Bhooj 1324 1281 587 Arcot 1085 71 715 Bhopawur 1024 1095 449 Arnee 1104 81 732 Bhopaul 848 944 492 Arracan 462 980 1647 Bimlipatam 540 518 851 Arrah ... 381 1367 1033 Bishnawth 627 1647 1719 Aska 399 707 1040 Biznore 905 1420 957 Asseeghur 909 779 313 Bogra 246 1266 1427 Ava 851 1280 1947 Bolaruna 972 408 444 Avanashy 1293 289 735 Bombay 1185 763 Aurungabad 963 690 215 Bolundshuhur 857 1335 872 Azimghur 475 1220 977 Broach 1228 927 231 Backergunge 183 1246 1368 Bugwah 332 1352 1359 Bagapully 1151 218 566 Burdwan 75 1066 1227 Bair 364 1339 1105 Burkaghur 209 1256 1162 Baitool 789 834 433 Buxar 446 1222 988 Balasore 145 922 1192 Cabool 1815 2134 1700 Bancoorah 101 1062 1223 Cachar 398 1461 1583 Banda 613 1102 771 Calcutta 01062 1185 Bangalore 1161 205 633 Calicut 1374 418 672 Baraset 15 1078 1202 Calimere Point 1283 224 925 Bareilly 782 1329 918 Callian 1178 760 36 Baroda 1230 997 281 Calpee 657 1168 803 Barrackpore 16 1079 1201 Cambay 1253 998 250 Bassein 1221 784 32 Canara 1350 436 524 APPENDICES. 109 lies distant from Miles distant from STATIONS. Cal- VI a- Join- STATIONS. Cal- Ma- Bom- utta. ras. bay. utta. dras. bay. Candahar 047 157 394 )hoolia 1055 806 208 Candy 250 576 277 )hummow 681 975 654 Canuanore 375 419 613 )hurrungaum 1087 780 236 Carangoly 109 49 777 )iamond Harbour... 30 1028 1176 Caroor 272 258 799 )inajepore 259 1289 1357 Cashepore 872 1418 946 Mnapore 376 1337 1072 Cashmere 564 1882 250 Dindigul 1315 270 819 Cawnpore 628 1200 854 3um-Dum 8 1071 1193 Chandernagore Chandore... 22 082 1085 798 1207 150 Durbangah Sllichpore 424 796 1374 736 433 Chatterpore 686 1071 702 Ellore 748 315 648 Chicacole 498 567 900 Errode 1258 253 758 Chinsletyiit 1095 36 767 773 1319 856 Chinsurah 28 1098 1218 Etawah 719 1221 764 Chirra Poonjee 360 1423 1545 Ferozepore 1150 1695 1170 Chittagong 342 1405 1557 French Rocks 1236 287 626 Chittledroog 1175 343 496 Furreedpore 128 1194 1313 Chittoor 1079 96 685 Furruckabad 711 1252 897 Chitwye 1410 390 726 Futtyghur 711 1252 897 Chunar 433 1146 952 Futtypore 580 1157 821 Chundpore 718 1259 894 Galle, Point de 1380 576 1277 Chuprah ... 400 1291 1056 Ganjam 382 699 1302 Cochin 1441 437 772 Ghazeepore 431 1209 974 Coimbatore 1319 315 746 Goa 1359 573 318 Colgong 250 1270 1368 Golconda 907 358 475 Combaconum 1246 187 888 Goomsoor 425 760 1097 Comercolly 124 1197 1304 Goorgong 924 1396 892 Comorin Cape 1770 440 830 Gopaulpore 374 1022 Condapilly 797 285 599 Goruckpore 525 1273 1038 Conjeveram 1086 46 742 Ghooty .. 1036 262 500 Contai 80 980 1226 Gowahatty 502 1522 1594 Coochbehar 342 1362 1369 Gowalparah 425 1445 1517 Coomreah 72 1196 1348 Gunga Khair 918 570 301 Coorg 1328 372 676 Guntoor 807 255 617 Coringa 674 374 783 Gwalior 782 1164 680 Cotamputty 1304 250 885 Gya 289 1270 1069 Cotapuramba ... . 1355 400 637 Hajeepoor 1118 1687 1161 Cotyam 1495 490 825 Hameepore 629 1142 867 Covilputty ... . 1281 236 862 Hansi 995 1476 880 Cuddalore ... . 1170 110 816 Haupper 880 1350 895 Cuddapah ... . 1007 16 569 Hazareebaugh 239 1200 1166 Culnah 52 1122 1368 Heerapore 730 1014 659 Culneah 118 118 1303 Herat 2595 2510 1747 Cumbum 919 223 617 Hidjelee 80 980 1226 Cuttack 251 815 1151 Hingolee 885 608 373 Dacca 187 125 1372 Hissar 1015 1496 900 Damaun 1209 86 128 Hooghly 28 1098 1218 Dapoolie 1206 62 121 Honore 1372 546 414 Darjeeling ... . 343 137 1441 Hosheyapore 1148 1647 1121 Deesa 1300 114 451 Hospett 1129 355 424 Delhi 900 137 868 Hurryhur 1203 393 446 Deyrah Dhoon 967 149 1008 Hursole 1273 1053 358 Dharwar 1299 46 351 Hussingabad 864 900 460 110 APPENDICES. STATIONS. Miles distant from STATIONS. Mile* distant from Cal- cutta Ma- .Iras. Bom bay. Cal- cutta Ma- dras. Bom- bay. Hydrabad (Deccan) 972 398 434 Maldah 191 1211 1288 Do. (Scinde) . . 1626 1541 778 Malwa 1400 616 278 Incollo 848 215 634 Malabar 1374 418 672 Inchura 44 1192 1228 Malligaum . . 1058 774 176 Indore .. .. .. 970 975 874 Mangalore 1359 436 524 Injeram 674 374 783 Manuntoddy . . 1317 362 707 Jansee 766 1001 400 Masulipatam . . 797 285 654 Jaulnah 932 651 253 Meerut 906 1405 912 Jaunpore 466 1168 933 Mercara 1328 372 676 Jeagunghe . . 125 1145 1337 Mhar 1257 655 107 Jelalabad 734 1275 910 Mhow 980 961 360 Jelasore 112 951 1159 Vlidnapore . . 69 994 1116 Jessore 40 1141 1263 Mirzapore . . 455 1124 890 Jeypore 933 1340 745 Mithenkote . . 1345 1840 1077 Joudpore 1249 1316 696 Mokeran 1580 1682 1156 Joynagore . . 139 1192 Mominabad . . . . 980 551 269 Jubulpore . . 700 879 674 Slonghyr 304 1324 1163 Juggernauth . . 297 766 1102 tf oorshedabad . . 118 1138 1290 Jumalpore . . 301 1321 1479 Moradabad . . . . 842 1388 916 Kaira 1204 1029 334 tfoulmein 928 1176 1939 Kalladghee .. .. KsiniptGC 1223 686 453 722 314 647 Mozuffernuggur 942 726 1441 1111 951 742 Kunsfrs, . . 1200 1798 1170 Muctul 1060 349 420 Karicaul 1231 175 876 Mukhi 1183 1682 1157 KcdfiT6rc6 64 994 1210 Mundeysir 1012 858 328 Khandala 1149 700 56 Munnipore . . 490 1557 1679 Kharwarah . . 1004 721 127 Muttra 818 1301 776 Khasalpore . . 91 1144 1328 Vlymensing . . 281 1348 1466 Khatmandoo . . 560 1470 121.0 VI ynpoory 739 1285 797 Khyouk Phyoo 648 1711 184.> Mysore 1246 290 636 Kircumbady . . 1027 82 680 Nacrecul 892 329 504 Kirkee 1110 670 87 Nagercoil 1483 438 1004 Kishnaghur . . 64 1114 1249 Nagery 1049 56 705 Kishore 980 1186 587 Nagore . . 241 182 632 Kolapore 1245 600 220 Nagpore 677 713 885 Kotah 971 1161 562 Naidopet 993 70 714 Kulladghee . . 1223 453 314 Nakodah 1138 1637 1100 Kurnaul 978 1477 952 Nalchitty 173 1236 1378 Kurnool 988 289 542 tfassick 1067 762 111 K.urr < o J ooo > ?ooS 1 S > o t ^ ^ O O c- a, OC^si lieicseJKaiKaseStfajaicSaJKQScr; 21 H PHILOSOPHICAL AND CHEMICAL APPARATUS. HORNE, THORNTHWAITE, AND WOOD, OPTICIANS, 123, NEWGATE STREET, LONDON, Manufacture and sell every description of Apparatus illustrative of Chemistry, Hydraulics, Hydrostatics, Pneumatics, Frictional and Voltaic Electricity, Elec- tro-Magnetism, Electro-Metallurgy, Optics, Models of Steam Engines, Turning Lathes, Soda Water Machines, &c., &c., Apparatus for showing the Dissolving Views, Oxy-Hydrogen Microscope, Telescopes, Achromatic and other Micro- scopes, Daguerreotype Apparatus and Calotype Apparatus for taking Portraits and Views on Silver Plates and Paper, from 5 5s. to 20. Electro-Galvanic Machines for administering Medical Galvanism, from 3 3s. to 15 15s. A descriptive Catalogue, containing upwards of 500 Engravings, can be pro- cured through any Bookseller or Agent, price 2s. 6d. or per Overland Mail, Post free, 3s. 6d. Orders containing a remittance, or order for payment, in London, promptly attended to. ALFRED BROOKS, (From Dollond's,) OPTICAL, MATHEMATICAL AND PHILOSOPHICAL INSTRUMENT MAKER, Begs respectfully to return thanks for the liberal patronage he has already received; and, in soliciting future favours and recommendation, feels con- fidence in stating that, having had twenty years' experience in Dollond's, all articles submitted by him may be relied upon as being of the most perfect character, and at economical charges. Spectacles, Telescopes, Microscopes, Opera and Race- glasses, Sextants, Compasses, Barometers, Surveying Instru- ments, Rules, Scales, &c., of every description. Orders may be sent through Messrs. James Barber and Co., Grindlay and Co., or direct to 41, Ludgate-street, St. Paul's. TO GENTLEMEN APARTMENTS TO LET, En suite, with extra Bed Rooms if required ; the house is modern, well- furnished, and in the centre of the most fashionable part. Gentlemen and small Families requiring a superior abode in London, with good attendance and all the advantages of an Hotel, will find this desirable. Terms moderate. 15, BURY STREET, ST. JAMES'S. TO GENTLEMEN WITH TENDER FEET. J. CHAPPELL, 388, STRAND, CORNER OF SOUTHAMPTON STREET, BOOT MAKER AND PROFESSOR OF FITTING, BEGS to call the attention of such to his Method of Measuring, by which he guarantees at the first trial to produce a fit unprecedented for comfort, yet combined with the most fashionable shape. Those Gentlemen on whom Boot Makers have practised unsuccessfully, are particularly solicited by J. C., who will undertake to fit them at once, how- ever difficult. Established, 1825. BOOTS FOR INDIA. T. G R U N D Y, 33oot agafcer, 133, LEADENHALL STREET, OPPOSITE THE INDIA HOUSE, AND 44, ST. MARTIN'S LANE, CHARING CROSS, Respectfully begs leave to acquaint Officers of the Army, the Civil Service, Cadets, and others proceeding to India, that he has introduced an entirely new process in the preparation of leather, whereby it is rendered most beau- tifully soft and pliable, and at the same time so much changed in its nature, as not to occasion that pain and inconvenience universally experienced in wearing new boots. They bear a most beautiful polish, requiring no blacking ; they do not crack or become hard, and are remarkably soft and pleasant to wear. Ease, elegance and durability, are combined in these Boots, and are invaluable for warm climates. T. Grundy earnestly solicits one trial, which will be convincing. TO SPORTSMEN IN INDIA, CHINA, AND THE COLONIES. J. COLLINS, (SUCCESSOR TO WILSON), 115, REGENT STREET, CORNER OF VIGO LANE. GUN MAKER AND REPOSITORY FOR GUNS BY ALL THE LONDON MAKERS, Respectfully informs Gentlemen in her Majesty's and the Honourable East India Company's Services, Merchants, Planters, and others, that he has always on hand a Stock of FOWLING PIECES, DOUBLE AND SINGLE BARRELLED RIFLES, &c., &c., Expressly prepared for Sportsmen in India, which he continues to supply on the most reasonable terms, at which a suitable and well-finished article can be sold. J. COLLINS invites special attention to his assortment of Pistols, and every description of weapon that is manufactured. ORDERS FROM ABROAD CAREFULLY EXECUTED. BECKWITH AND SON, GUN MAKERS TO THE HONOURABLE EAST INDIA COMPANY, 58, SKINNER STREET, SNOW HILL, LONDON. BECKWITH AND SON manufacture for Sportsmen double and single Guns, at the lowest possible price, that will insure the assistance of the best mechanics in the gun trade, which guns, for workmanship and shooting cannot be sur- passed. Also double and single RIFLES made to shoot with the greatest accuracy. B. and Son make Guns marked No. 2, which will be found on trial much better and cheaper than most second hand Guns, and prevent the loss now so often sustained in the purchase of what are called second-hand Guns, but which are really very common ones, with London maker's names forged upon them. Also Guns marked No. 8, perfectly safe and made to shoot well, suitable for the Colonies. DOUBLE AND SINGLE GUNS, RIFLE PISTOLS, SWORDS, &C., FOR EXPORTATION. All kinds of Implements for Sportsmen, Powder, Wadding, Caps, &c., &c. TO THE SPORTING WORLD. GEORGE AND JOHN DEANE, GUN MAKERS TO HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS PRINCE ALBERT, HAVE much satisfaction in making public their important discovery of manu- facturing Gun Barrels entirely of Pure Steel, which are found in all respects as decidedly superior to stubb twist as the later is to common plain Iron Barrels. Some of the most important advantages possessed by DEANE'S Steel Barrels are, first, that they are found to stand a much more severe test in proof than those of any other description, and even in comparison with the best Stubb Barrels of the same length and calibre. The Steel Barrels will stand the same proof, although one-fourth lighter : the greater safety which this in- vention secures is therefore obvious. Secondly, the Shooting is from 25 to 35 per cent, stronger and closer than any other. And, thirdly, they will not be- come leaded or foul, or by constant use lose their superiority of shooting. As an Advertisement precludes the possibility of detailing their full merits, Sports- men are respectfully invited to inspect the STEEL BARREL GUNS, and test their Shooting, at G. & J. DEANE'S FACTORY ; where also will be found the largest assortment of Double and Single Fowling Pieces, Double and Single Rifles of every calibre, and fitted with extra barrels for shot ; Air Guns and Air Canes for all descriptions of Shooting; and Pistols in endless variety. DEANE'S GUN MANUFACTORY, No. 30, KING WILLIAM STREET, LONDON BRIDGE. GUNS AND PISTOLS. JOHN BLISSETT, GUN MAKEE, 32J, HIGH HOLBORN, LONDON, Respectfully begs to thank his customers in India for their long and con- tinued patronage, and to state that, from the great experience he had in making DOUBLE RIFLES, he has attained to a principle of making them throw with equal precision to a Single Rifle, which he unhesitatingly challenges the world to surpass, even those who charge nearly double his price. His Fowl- ing Pieces are bored upon a system, and the interior of the breeching made upon such an improved plan, as to throw small shot stronger and closer than has ever before been accomplished. Double and Single Rifles, with extra barrels for small shot, to fit in the same stocks. Pistols of every description, both double and single, for holster, belt, pocket, or duelling. The Regulation Cavalry and Infantry Pistols, with musket or carbine-size bores. The Six- barrel Self-acting Pistol now made complete and perfect. J B. has always a large stock of Second-hand Guns and Pistols of his own make and all the other first-rate London makers, at most reasonable prices, together with every article connected with the trade. N. B. Observe the Name and No. 321, High Holborn, London, directly opposite Gray's-inn Gate. GUNS, JOHN BLANCH & SON, GUN, PISTOL, AND RIFLE MAKERS, 29, GRACECHURCH STREET, LONDON. Guns, &c. manufactured upon the Premises, at the lowest possible Price, consistent with first-rate workmanship. ESTABLISHED IN 1809. FREDERIC BARNES, RIFLE, GUN, AND PISTOL MANUFACTURER, No. 3, UNION ROW, TOWER HILL, L ND N. A LARGE ASSORTMENT OF FINE SINGLE AND DOUBLE FOWLING PIECES, RIFLES, MUSKETS, SWORDS AND CUTLASSES ALWAYS ON HAND. TO FAMILIES FURNISHING. JEREMIAH EVANS AND CO., FURNISHING IRONMONGERS, 33, KING WILLIAM STREET, LONDON BRIDGE, Respectfully acquaint the Nobility and Gentry, that they have just completed A LARGE STOCK OF KITCHEN REQUISITES, Including Stewpans, Saucepans, &c., in Copper, Iron, and Block Tin ; Patent Dish Covers, Roasting Jacks, Meat Screens, and every requisite for the Kitchen; also Knives and Forks, Japan Ware, Table and Suspending Lamps, Tea and Coffee Urns, and the largest Assortment of Stoves, Fenders, and Fire-irons, improved Kitchen Ranges, &c. V CO H 03 w w ^ P^ W ffl H S " CO O W ^ o <1 g ffi H 125 w r^ H o P5 3 CD CM I en UJ o > DC LJ o z DC < 1- c CJ r GO i-Cn & a 3 * "S ^ a) ."S 1 o 1 g 1 -I 1 H H S rf a 5 s S ef a g tf V I .1 ^ en LLING d their 3 O y o o 1 CQ ^ t i^ aT g 56 a 3 tJD ^2 -S Jl ^ M ^ o a u 8 2 ^ 15 CD *" "c" 5 S 1 Is l& a ijf ja'S ^2 CA REGIMENTAL CONTRACTS vates' Clothing and Accoutrements, Plat THE NEW INFANTRY SWORD, ,chine, and gild by the best London worl THE NEW CHAKO ompany, supplied, both for Officers and CABIN FURNITURE, cle of personal outfit, ready for immedia ROUTE, THEIR CONDENSED TRA sir very Light Waterproof Trunk, 21s., a 5 J # vT 1 AND HARRIS, 126, LBADENH. & 1 ^i V(_, CO a o> 1 P^ Q g 4 O o ^2 ta 3 1 b 3 p 0) <& - 1 ^ 1 1 ^ ^ 1 a "to a 1 e > T3 O G 1 s Strongest Thread King's Fiddle. Pattern. Pattern. 19s. 28s. 30s. 16 21 25 8 11 12 SILVER SUPERSEDED BY RICHARD AND JOHN SLACK'S CHEMI- CALLY PURIFIED NICKEL SILVER. A good substitute for silver has long been sought after, and numerous have been the at- tempts to produce a perfect metal that will retain its colour when in use. How fruitless the attempts have been the public know too well, from the fact that all their purchases have, after a few days' wear, exhibited a colour little better than brass. The very severe tests that have been applied to our metal (which in all cases it has withstood), at once places it pre- eminent above all others, and from its silver-like appearance, its intrinsic and valuable pro- perties, gives us confidence in asserting that it is, and must remain, the only pure and perfect substitute for silver. Fiddle Pattern. Table Spoons and Forks per dozen .... 1 2s. and 15s. Dessert ditto and ditto 10 13 Teaditto 5 6 Cruet Frames with Rich Cut Glasses, from 22s. Table Candlesticks, 12s. per pair. Tea Sets, and every article for the Table, at proportionate prices. R. and J. S. beg to caution the public against several spurious imitations of their articles, which are daily offered to the public as Albata British Plate. The genuine are to be had only at their establishment, 336, Strand, opposite Somerset House, where no inferior goods are kept, FENDERS, FIRE IRONS, &c. RICHARD and JOHN SLACK are now offering the most extensive and elegant assortment of Fenders in London, embracing the newest designs, at prices 30 per cent, under any other house. Ornamental Iron Fenders, 3 feet Jong, 4s. 6d. ; 3 feet 6 inches, 5s 3d. ; 4 feet, 6s. ; dir.o, bronzed, from 6s. ; Bed-room Fenders, from 2s. 6d. ; rich Scroll Fenders, with Steel Spear, any size, from 10s. Chamber Fire-irons, Is. 9d. per set; Parlour ditto, 3s. 6d. ; superior ditto, with cut head and bright pans, from 6s 6d. ; new patterns, with bronzed head, I Is. ; ditto, with ormolu and China heads, at proportionate prices. Balance Ivory Table Knives 10s per dozen. Superior Kitchen Table Dessert ditto 9 Knive and Forks from .. 6s. 6 d per doz. Carvers 3 6d. per pair. Table Knives with pure White Bone Table Knives.. 6 Nickel Silver, Tables 22 Dessert 4 Dessertditto 18 Carvers 2 Carvers 6 6d. All marked RICHARD and JOHN SLACK, and warranted. RICHARD and JOHN SLACK, in submitting the above prices, beg it to be understood it is for articles of the best quality only. RICHARD and JOHN SLACK, 336, Strand, London. Their Illustrated Catalogue may be had gratis, or sent to any part of Great Britain, post free. ESTABLISHED, 1818. The Money returned for every article not approved of. Published on the Morning after the arrival in London of every Overland Mail. Price SIXPENCE ; or 10s. for 24 Numbers paid in advance. THE INDIAN NEWS, A FORTNIGHTLY JOURNAL OF INTELLIGENCE OF PUBLIC AND PERSONAL INTEREST, INDIA, CHINA, AND THE EASTERN ARCHIPELAGO. *** This Journal was established in June, 1840, by a numerous body of the principal Merchants, Company's Officers, and others connected with India, and has ever since main, tained its influence and circulation among Anglo-Indians, and parties in this country having friends or relatives in the Civil and Military Services of the Company ; also among Merchants, Shippers, and others interested in our Eastern Empire. Its contents are arranged as follows : SUMMARY OF PUBLIC NEWS. A continuous sketch, bringing down the Political, Military and Miscellaneous Transactions in an historical form from mail to mail. DETAILS FROM THE PAPERS. Giving the more interesting Materials of the foregoing History, in Extracts from the various Indian and Chinese papers. NEWS FROM THE PRESIDENCIES, CEYLON, ETC. This department contains the Anecdotes and on dits of the English in India, and generally all Articles of News not included under the foregoing head. GOVERNMENT NOTIFICATIONS, ETC. Civil, Military, Naval, Medical, Ecclesiastical and Miscellaneous; Births, Marriages and Deaths ; Shipping Intelligence, Arrivals, Departures and Lists of Passengers. COMMERCIAL. Comprehensive Views of the Movement of Trade and Commerce in India, China and the Archipelago, from the best authorities on the spot, with price current. LEADING ARTICLES. On the Indian topics of the day; Sketches of Manners in India; Proceedings of Public Societies ; Resources and Improvement of the Country, &c. LITERATURE AND ART. Embracing a Critical Review, not confined to Works on India. HER MAJESTY'S FORCES IN INDIA. DISTRIBUTION OF THE ARMY IN INDIA. And general list of Casualties from time to time. PARLIAMENT AND THE INDIA HOUSE. Examinations at the Colleges; Reports of Arrivals, Permissions to return or remain, Applications to retire, &c. HOME INTELLIGENCE. Containing everything interesting to the Indian body in England up to the day of publica- tion ; Births, Marriages, and Deaths, Shipping Intelligence, Arrivals, Departures, Lists of Passengers, &c. LONDON: PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY STEWART & MURRAY, GREEN ARBOUR COURT, OLD BAILEY, To whom all communications for the Editor, or orders for Subscriptions, may be addressed ; or to SMITH, ELDER & CO., 65, CORNHILL; OB, W. H. SMITH, 136, STRAND NOTICE.-NO OPIUM OR ANY OF ITS PREPARATIONS IN THESE LOZENGES. UNDER THE PATRONAGE OF ROYALTY AND THE AUTHORITY o? THK FACULTY, KEATING'S COUGH LOZENGES. A CERTAIN REMEDY for disorders of the Pulmonary Organs in difficulty of breathing in redundancy of phlegm in incipient Consumption, of which Cough is the most positive in- dication, they are of unerring efficacy. In Asthma, and in Winter Cough, they hare never been known to faik HEATING'S COUGH LOZENGES are free from every deleterious ingredient; they may, there, fore, be taken at all times, by the most delicate female and by the youngest child ; while the public speaker and the professional singer will find them invaluable in allaying the hoarse- ness and irritation incidental to vocal exertion, and consequently a powerful auxiliary in the production of melodious enunciation. Prepared and sold in boxes.ls. l$d., and tins, 2s. 9d., 4s 6d. and 10s. 6d. each, by THOMAS KEATING, Chemist, &c., No. 79, St. Paul's Church-yard, London; and retail by all Druggists and Patent Medicine Venders in the Kingdom. N.B. To prevent spurious imitations, please to observe that the words " Keating's Cough Lozenges" are engraved on the government stamp of each box. IMPORTANT TESTIMONIALS. Copy of a Letter from COLONEL HAWKER (the well-known Author on " Guns and Shooting."} Longparish House, near Whitchurch, Hants, Oct. 2lst, 1846. SIR, I cannot resist informing you of the extraordinary effect I have experienced by taking only a few of your Lozenges. I had a cough for several weeks, that defied all that had been prescribed for me ; and yet I got completely rid of it by taking about half a small box of your Lozenges, which I find are the only ones that relieve the cough without derang- ing the stomach or digestive organs. I am, sir, your humble servant, To Mr. Keating, 79, St. Paul's Church -yard. P. HAWKER. RED PARAGUAN SARSAPARILLA. D'VERE'S COMPOUND FLUID EXTRACT. (Prepared by cold process) from the above fine species of the root, and prescribed by the first physicians and surgeons of the day, is acknowledged by the faculty to be the best form of Sarsaparilla now in use. It is remarkable for its medicinal properties as a purifier of the blood, and restorative of the vital energies of the system, in cases of debility consequent on acute disease and other causes, or wherever tonic or alterative remedies are indicated. It has been prescribed with marked success in the treatment of the following class of complaints : Skin Disease, Scrofulous Complaints, Glandular Enlargements, Scorbutic Affections, Blotched Face, Boils and Tumours, Obstinate Ulcerations, Chronic Rheumatism, Affections of the Liver, Biliary Obstructions, Indigestion, Loss of Appetite, Loss of Flesh, Lowness of Spirits, Local, Nervous, and General Debility, and in most disorders depending on a depraved habit of body, bad state of the blood, or debilitated constitution. " I have prescribed the Fluid Extract of the Red Sorza (by the cold process) to many of my patients with considerable benefit, and, I may say, in cases where the ordinary forms of Sarsaparilla seemed to hare little effect I am persuaded this is a valuable preparation for the profession, and have recommended it for use in University College Hospital" Letters of the late Professor Liston. To be obtained in bottles, half-pints, 8s. ; pints, 15s.; quarts, 25s. ; (accompanied with doses and directions), of T. KEATING, Chemist, 79, St. Paul's Church-yard, London. COD-LIVER OIL. THE increasing demand for this medicine, and the difficulty of procuring it, has induced Messrs. Henry Cox and Co. to make arrangements for a constant supply of this valuable article, which can be depended upon (colour, taste and smell being uniform), and which will bear the strictest test. To be had retail of Mr, T. KEATING, Dispensing Chemist, 79, St Paul's Church-yard. " Hospital for Consumption and Diseases of the Chest Brompton, July 5, 1849. " Mr. Cox Please supply 20 gallons Cod Liver Oil Osborn P. Cross, Secretary." " July 18 Please supply as last 20 gallons Cod Liver Oil Osborn P. Cross, Secretary." " August 1 Please supply as last 20 gallons Cod Liver Oil. Osborn P. Cross, Secretary.'* Agents for Calcutta, William Cragg, Esq. Madras, Messrs. Gordon and Co. Bombay, Messrs. Treacher and Son. Gibraltar, T H. Roberts, Apothecary. TRAVELLERS AND RESIDENTS IN WARM CLIMATES WILL FIND ROWLAND'S KALYDOR SSi pe " enl actio eud8U5ering ROWT AND'S MACASSAR OIL, ^^SSS ,, W .p b o, BOWLANP'S ALSANA EXTRACT u .,o .OP. vend the most SPB.OUS COMPOUNDS under f WLANDS -, is the fore, highly necessary to see that the wora ietors _ A . noWLAND SSl^HiSS Sit-, "o^and b P y all respectable Cheats and Perfumers. d 3 Officers in the Military and Civil Service proceeding to India or the Colonies, supplied on better terms than at any other House in London. SADDLERY PACKED IN CASES SUITABLE FOR SHIPPING. ' All Orders sent direct from Ir dia must be accompanied with a Reference, or an Order for Payment in England. A. DAVIS, SPONGE MERCHANT, BRUSH MANUFACTURER, AND REPOSITORY FOR HORSE CLOTHING, BLANKETS, SADDLERY, HARNESS, &c. BY ESPECIAL APPOINT- MENT TO HER MAJESTY, AXD H. R. H. PRINCE ALBERT. AND THEIR GRACES THE DUKES OF NORTHUM- BERLAND, BUCCLEUCH, MONTROSE, SOMERSET, AND ARGYLE, AND THE DOWAGER DUCHESS OF BEDFORD. 33, STRAND, LONDON, Families in the Country will find an unprecedented advantage regarding quality and price. The Articles printed in this list warranted of the first-rate quality. Many Articles cannot be priced, owing to the multiplicity of Sizes ; but guaranteed at Wholesale Prices. PATENTEE OF THE FLEXIBLE CONCAVE HORSE AND MANE BRUSHES. SADDLERY. Best Hunting Saddles, full size, with superior made trees with spring bars, warranted of the best mate- rials and shape, complete,with best steel stirrup irons, girths.and stir- rup leathers - . . . 4146 Ladies' superior Side Saddles, with slipper girths, &c., all complete, warranted of the first quality . 6 16 6 Ladies' Side Saddles, with leaping heads for hunting - - . 7 17 6 Race Horse Saddles complete, with irons, girths, sursingle, &c., any weight, from 2 Ibs - - - 440 Superior Double Rein Bridles, with highly polished steel bits, spring curbs, bradoon, & light Over Coats ) Cloth OverCoatof light tex- > ture & handsomelytrim'd J Ditto ditto lined with Silk.. Ditto ditto Superior quality Jean and Holland Blouses.. Fancy Victoria ditto. Tweed ditto DressCoais Frock ditto Spring and Summer Trowsers Doeskin and Buckskin ditto Spring and Summer Vests in \ _ every variety ..J " Black & Figured Satin Vests _ Black ditto Superior quality White Marcella Vests Men's Black Cloth Vests .... _ Boys' Spring & Summer do. Boys' Hussar & Tunic Suits Men's Fishing Coats in great \ variety J ~ a. d. 8 6 12 6 1 1 1 8 1 18 2 9 4 4 6 17 1 4 7 6 1 6 4 6 9 6 4 6 3 6 10 15 4 World. World. World. World, World. World. World, MADE TO MEASURE, Paletots made from a variety n of material fitted for Sum- > from 1 mer wear J Ditto very elegantly trimm'd > i ditto J " Superior Cloth of a texture , Ditto ditto lined with Silk.. Ditto Dress Coat Best ditto for Superfine Frock ditto Best ditto ditto Fancy Doeskin Trowsers . . Black ditto ditto Best ditto ditto .... Black Cloth Vests Best ditto ditto Splendid Satin ditto Best ditto ditto Hussar and Tunic Suits .... Superfine ditto ditto .... Men's White Marcella Vests Fishing Coats in endless va- riety from 10s. 6d. Elegant Dressing Robes in great variety.. ..from 16s. 8. d. 1 1 a I 1 15 2 2 __ 1 M u for 2 15 D 1 li 3 3 u from 10 t> __ 16 ft 1 6 o 8 6 __ 13 6 14 G 18 6 __ 1 5 1 15 7 to 1 16 to 5 Mourning to any extent at Five minutes' 1 notice. A Suit of Clothes complete for \ lOs. The new Book entitled The Great Fact, with full directions for Self- measurement, can be had on application, or forwarded Post-free to any part of the Kingdom. NOTICE. The Shawl and Parasol departments are now replete with Novelty of the Season. OBSERVE. Any Article purchased either Ready-made, or made to Measure, if not approved of, will be exchanged or the money returned. E. MOSES and SON, Tailors, Woollen Drapers, Clothiers, Hatters, Hosiers, Furriers, Boot and Shoemakers, and General Outfitters, 154, 155, 166, & 157, Minories, and 83, 84, 85, & 86, Aldgate, City, London. All communicating with each other, and forming one vast Establishment. CAUTION. E. MOSES and SON regret having to guard against impostion, but having heard that the untradesmanlike falsehood of being connected with them, or it is the same Concern, has been resorted to hi many instances, and for obvious reasons ; they beg to state they have no connexion with any other House hi or out of London, except their Branch Establishments, 36, Fargate, Sheffield, and 19, Thornton 's-buildings, Bradford, Yorkshire, and those who require Cheap and Genuine Clothing, &c., should call at or send to the Minories, and Aldgate, City, London, or either of the Branches as above. TAKE NOTICE. This Establishment is Closed from Sun-set, Friday, till Sun-set, Saturday, when Business is resumed till 12 o'Ciock. WORKS ON INDIA, &c., PUBLISHED BY WM. H. ALLEN & CO., 7, LEADENHALL STREET. Biographical Index to the Historians of Muhammedan India. By Sir HENRY M. ELLIOT, K.C.B., Foreign Secretary to the Government of India. Vol. I. 8vo. 16s. History of the British Empire in India, to the close of Lord Ellenborough's Administration. By EDWARD THORNTON, Esq. Illustrated by Maps, showing the Possessions of the East-India Company at various times. 6 vols. 8vo., cloth let- tered, 4. 16s. " It (Thornton's India) presents such amass of valuable and authentic informa- tion respecting the origin, government, and resources of our Indian territories, as is to be found in no other publication. * * * It is the best, the most compre- hensive, and the most original history of India which has yet appeared, and we cannot doubt its becoming the most papular, if, indeed, it be not so already. The style in which it is written is clear, vigorous, and terse, and free from those far- fetched, flowery, and pompous clap-traps which too many writers of the present day are apt to inflict upon their readers." United Service Gazette. " The style of the work is free, rapid, and spirited, and bears marks of a thorough familiarity with the subject. Every Englishman ought to be acquainted with the history of the British empire in India, and we therefore cordially recommend this work to our readers." Patriot. " Mr. Thornton's history is comprehensive in its plan, clear and forcible in its style, and impartial in its tone." Globe. " A sound, an impartial, and a searching composition ; chaste, elegant, and flowing in diction, profound in thought, and thoroughly logical in reasoning." Colonial Magazine. WM. H. ALLEN & CO., A Dictionary, Hindustani and English; to which is added a reversed part, ENGLISH and HINDUSTANI. By DUNCAN FORBES, LL.D., Professor of Oriental Languages in King's College, London ; Member of the Royal Asiatic Society of Great Bri- tain and Ireland ; Member of the Asiatic Society of Paris, &c. In 1 Vol., royal 8vo., cloth, 2. 12s. 6d., or half-bound, 2. 16s. " The present volume, by Dr. Forbes, we regard as an inestimable contribution to our Oriental literature, and worthy of a more extended notice than we can give to such a work. To compose a lexicon of the Hindustani tongue, suited to the present advanced state of this and kindred studies, demands in its author an uncommon share of learning and critical sagacity, that he be cautious, well prac- tised in analysis and arrangement, with ability to assign to secondary and figura. tive meanings a due position, a philosophical classification under their proper themes. To this part of the task Dr. Forbes has brought rare qualifications, many years' experience, great aptness in teaching the Oriental tongues, much tact with respect to the kind and degree of help required to their thorough mastery. He has already done good service ; his former works have stimulated many to acquire that knowledge which is essential to an efficient discharge of the various offices of trust and responsibility of every Indian resident. To say that it is an entirely new work would be to claim for it an equivocal character ; but we do say it is a matchless production of its kind, every way calculated to sustain its author's well-earned reputation. The plan and principal authorities are fully detailed in the preface, to which we refer our readers ; the classical works have been diligently explored; the more modern and valuable works of Thompson, Herklots, Cox, and H. M. Elliot have been laid under contribution for particular terms and local usage ; the aim has been to compile a thoroughly usable and economical book. The words are given in alphabetical order ; the leading word, and the meaning of which it, its derivatives and compounds, are susceptible, are given with great care ; in a word, if condensation and definiteness, if due distinction between the pro- vinces of a grammarian and lexicographer, if to avoid faults, to reject things of a doubtful utility, to supply deficiencies, and do all this with a determination that typography, paper, and price shall be unexceptionable, if these in combination be a recommendation to an author and his work, then Dr. Forbes's Dictionary is fully worthy of the patronage of the patrons and students of Hindustani litera"- ture. We have to add, for we must not omit to mention, that it contains a second part, or a reversed dictionary a very valuable companion indeed." Friend of India, published at Serampore. Grammar of the Hindustani Language, in the Oriental and Roman Characters, with numerous Copper-plate Illustrations of the Persian and Devanagari Systems of Alphabetic Writing. To which is added, a copious Selection of Easy Extracts for reading in the Persi- Arabic and Devanagari Characters, forming a complete introduction to the Bagh-o-Bahar, together with a Vocabu- lary and explanatory Notes. By DUNCAN FORBES, LL.D. 8vo., cloth, 12s. 7, LEADENHALL STREET. Hindustani Manual; a Pocket Companion for those who visit India in any capacity, consisting of a compendious Grammar and Exercises on its more prominent peculiarities ; with a Selection of Useful Phrases and Dialogues, on familiar subjects, toge- ther with a Vocabulary of useful Words, English and Hindustani, showing at the same time the Difference of Idiom between the two languages. By DUNCAN FORBES, LL.D. New Edition, consider- ably improved, 18mo., bound, 5s. 6d. " The work can be honestly recommended to all who are desirous of acquiring the elements of the language, or of making themselves understood among the people of this country. We have seldom, if ever, seen such a small pocket-com- panion, with such a variety of useful instruction. The language of the Vocabulary and of the Dialogues appears quite unexceptionable. Any one acquainted with Hindustani will at once recognize its idiomatic accuracy, and cheerfully recom Jiend it to the notice of all those who desire to come out to India not altogether unpre- pared to convey their own wishes to those who surround them." Friend of India. Grammar of the Persian Language. To which is added, a Selection of Easy Extracts for Reading, together with a copious Vocabulary. By DUNCAN FORBES, LL.D. Second edition. Royal 8vo., cloth, 12s. 6d. Bagh-o-Bahar; consisting of entertaining Tales in the Hindustani Language. By MIR AMMAN, of Delhi. A new edition, carefully collated with original Manuscripts, having the essential vowel-points and punctuation marked throughout. To which is added a Vocabulary by DUNCAN FORBES, LL.D. Royal 8vo., cloth, 15s. *** The Bagh-o-Bahar is the test-book in which Cadets and Assistant Surgeons have to pass an examination in India. This edition was prepared under the authority of the Honourable the East-India Company. Oriental Penmanship: an Essay for facili- tating the reading and writing of the Ta'lik Character, as generally used in the East in Persian and Hindustani Manuscripts and Printed Works; consisting of various Specimens of Fine Writing, accurately lithographed from Original Native MSS., accompanied by Letter- press Descriptions, together with explanatory Notes and Observa- tions. BY DUNCAN FORBES, LL.D. 4to. cloth, 8s. 4 WM. H. ALLEN & CO., The British World in the East ; a Guide to India, China, Australia, South Africa, and the other possessions or connections of Great Britain in the Eastern and Southern Seas. By LEITCH RITCHIE. 2 vols. 8vo., cloth lettered, l. 4s. The object of this work is to embody everything of a practical nature that is known of the countries in question, in an historical description of the course of that great eastward stream of commerce and coloniza- tion which has commenced a new era in the destinies of the world. COUNTRIES DESCRIBED. British India. Beeloochistan. Afghanistan. Cashmere. Thibet. Burmah. Siam. Malay Peninsula. Indian Archipelago. Empire of Anam. Chinese Empire. New Zealand and the other Islands of the Pacific. Japan. Australia with Tasmania. Islands of the Indian Ocean. Southern Africa. Islands of the South Atlantic Ocean. " An able summary of events connected with the rise, progress, and present state of the British Empire in the Eastern hemisphere. The author has well worked out the desire of the publishers, ' to have the spirit and results of history in a form at once popular and practical ;' and although he professes to give only ' the heads of knowledge,' there is nothing dry in the manner in which his task has been performed ; on the contrary, the book is exceedingly readable, and will be found of great value, both as a work of reference, and as presenting a compre- hensive and interesting sketch of an important portion of a mighty empire. A work which seems, in every respect, worthy of public patronage." Foreign Quar- terly Review. " The title of this book will show its comprehensive character, and those who wish to have an Encyclopaedia of information on Eastern and Southern history, commerce, everything, in fact, but physical science, and not without a good deal even on that, will here find what they require. It is a condensation of the con- tents of multifarious volumes, and may justly be termed ' many things in few words.' If read, it will impart to the student nearly all that is known on the subject to which it relates, and afford him withal much entertainment. If kept as a book of reference, few questions relating to Eastern affairs can arise for which it will not furnish a complete answer." Indian Mail. " This book will become invaluable for reference, since it embraces all the leading circumstances in the histories and position (social and political) of India, China, and Australia." Court Journal. " This comprehensive title-page may be regarded as a faint outline of the pro- digious mass of information which is contained in the work to which it belongs. Divided into ten books, subdivided into forty-seven chapters, and consisting of 1,000 rather closely-printed 8vo. pages, the reading, research, and labour, both of mind and pen, requisite for its production, may readily be supposed to have been great. It was with no slight expectation that we sat down to a perusal of his (Mr. Ritchie's) volumes ; and we must do him the justice to say, that our antici- pations have been more than realized. By judicious management, and by skilfully and forcibly exercising the art of condensation, he has succeeded in drawing within one lucid focus an infinite variety of subjects, all more or less interesting and important." Naval and Military Gazette. 7, LEADENHALL STREET. History of the Punjab, and of the Rise, Progress, and present Condition of the Sect and Nation of the Sikhs, including a full account of the Military Operations on the Banks of the Sutlej in 1846, and the Proclamations and Treaties of the Go- vernor-General in India relating thereto. By THOMAS THORNTON, Esq. 2 vols. post 8vo., cloth lettered, 1. Is. " The work gives all the information on the history and topography of the Punjab that could be desired ; and in the fulness and completeness of its details, and the diligence with which information has been collected from every available source, constitutes this the best and most authentic work extant on the important country of which it treats." Britannia. The East-India Gazetteer; containing De- scriptions of the Empires, Kingdoms, Cities, Towns, Districts, &c., of Hindostan and adjacent Countries, with Sketches of the Manners, Customs, &c. of their various Inhabitants. By WALTER HAMILTON. Second edition, 2 vols. 8vo., cloth, l. 12s. A valuable and excellent work." Times. The Memoirs of a Griffin; or, a Cadet's First Year in India. By Captain BELLEW. Illustrated from De- signs by the Author. 2 vols. post 8vo., cloth lettered, 1. Is. " Our author deserves a favourable hearing, not only for the spirit of hilarity and the invariable good humour with which he encounters his various difficulties, but because the recital presents us with an accurate and faithful account of the manners of the luxurious East. The minutiae of domestic life, all the various usages of the presidencies, together with spicy military detail, which supply us with a very welcome and agreeable view of the way in which our fellow-subjects contrive to make themselves happy under the warm sunbeams of the Orient. There is a constant succession of new scenes, a great diversity of actors, and much new matter in this work ; the whole enlivened by a bonhomie which gives it its most interesting aspect." Metropolitan Magazine. Travels in Western India; embracing a visit to the Sacred Mountains of the Jains, and the most celebrated Shrines of the Hindu Faith between Rajpootana and the Indus, and an account of the ancient city of Nehrwalla. By the late Lieut.-Col. JAMES TOD, Author of " The Annals of Rajast'han." Royal 4to. cloth boards. 3. 13s. 6d. Instructions by Major-Gen. Sir John Mal- colm, G.C.B., K.L.S., &c., to Officers acting under his Orders in Central India, A.D. 1821. Post 8vo. cloth. 2s. 6d. WM. II. ALLEN & CO., Advice to Cadets and other Young Persons proceeding to India. By Capt. KERR, formerly Commandant of Gentlemen Cadets at Calcutta. Second edition, post 8vo., cloth, 5s. " A man of experience in the superintendence of Cadets, coming forward in this unaffected and truly parental manner with his advice, is sure to be listened to." Overland Paper, " The words may be few, but they contain much valuable information, and furnish much salutary advice." Conservative Journal. " The advice is so sensible, so judicious, so friendly, and so prudent." Metro- politan Magazine. The Hand-Book of India. A Guide to the Stranger and Traveller, and a Companion to the Resident. By J. H. STOCCIUELER, Esq., late Editor of the " Calcutta English- man." Post 8vo., cloth lettered, price 14s. This publication embraces, in a condensed form, complete and accurate information respecting the Topography, Climate, Govern- ment, Commerce, Laws, Institutions, and Products of India; the Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants ; the Method of Travelling throughout the Empire, and the Expense attendant thereon ; the Condition of the European (English) Society ; the Rules and Regu- lations of the various branches of the executive ; the Cost and Manner of proceeding to India ; the Sports, Ceremonies, and Pageants common to the Country, &c. &c. " Mr. Stocqueler's excellent Hand-book of India." Foreign Quarterly Review. " An able, interesting, and comprehensive work." Morning Herald. " Mr. Stocqueler's Hand-book of India is entitled to no inconsiderable praise." Spectator. " There can be no hesitation in saying that the plan and execution of this Hand-book are equally excellent ; that it is the most complete and accurate vade- mecum which has yet appeared, and cannot fail to be both interesting and useful to all those whom business or pleasure may send to India." Friend of India, published at Serampore* "_Wecan safely recommend this 'Guide' as one which will impart a correct notion of all those parts of the continent of British India which are the principal places of resort of Englishmen proceeding from this country to enter the service of Government, or embark in commercial, agricultural, or other pursuits." Atlas. " This, for what it professes to do, is truly an excellent book. As is stated in the preface, it contains at one view a very complete outline of everything relating to India which may be sought to be known ; and such pains have been taken to give the information, in a form as clear as it is ample, that we might say it was altogether a history as well as a Hand-book." Literary Gazette. Rambles in Ceylon; minute Details of Scenes and Impressions. By Lieut. DE BUTTS, H.M.'s Gist Regiment. Post 8vo. 10s. 7, LEADENHALL STREET. Treatise on Field Fortification and Artil- lery. By Major HECTOR STRAITH. 4th Edition. 8vo. cloth, with folio Plans. 2. 2s. Treatise on Military Surveying; including Sketching in the Field, &c. By Lieut.-Col. BASIL JACKSON. Third Edition, 8vo. cloth. 14s. Bactrian Coins ; Note on the Historical Re- sults deducible from Recent Discoveries in AfFghanistan. By H. T. PRINSEP, Esq. 8vo. cloth. 15s. Travels in the Punjab, Afghanistan, and Turkistan, to Balk, Bokhara, and Herat ; and a Visit to Great Britain and Germany. By MOHAN LAL. 8vo. cloth, lettered, 16s. " To the readers of this volume we can promise much amusement, and no slight portion of information." Naval and Military Gazette, " This is one of the most extraordinary volumes in reference to India that has issued from the press for a considerable time." Cheltenham Journal. " On a variety of subjects it affords both information and amusement in no inconsiderable degree." United Service Magazine. The Regimental Moonshi, being a course of Reading in Hindustani, designed to assist Officers and Assistant Surgeons on the Madras Establishment preparing for the Examination ordered by Government. By Captain E. T. Cox. Royal 8vo. 18s. Journal of Asiatic Society of Bengal, pub- lished monthly. Per number, 3s. 6d. Chinese Repository, published monthly. Per number, 2s. Thugs of India, illustrations of their His- tory and Practices, and Notices of some of the proceedings of the Government of India for the suppression of the Crime of Thuggee. 8vo. cloth. 15s. WM. H. ALLEN & CO., The East-India Register and Army List, (Published Half-yearly) ; containing complete Lists of the Company's Servants, at home and abroad ; Regulations respecting the appoint- ment of Writers, Cadets, &c., compiled from the official returns received at the East-India House. By F. CLARK, of the Secretary's Office, East-India House. 1 Thick Vol. 12mo. Sewed, 10s., or 1 Is. 6d. strongly bound. *#* Separate Presidencies Bengal, 6s. ; Madras, 5s. ; Bombay, 5s. Dictionary of the Chinese Language, in Three Parts. By R. MORRISON, D.D. : viz. 1. Chinese and English, arranged according to the Radicals. 3 vols. royal 4to. 7. 10s. 2. Chinese and English, arranged alphabetically. 2 vols. royal 4to. 6. 6s. 3. English and Chinese. Royal 4to. 31s. 6d. *** Each Part forms a complete Dictionary. Sanscrit Plays. The Mrichchakati, or the Toy-cart ; Vikrama and Urvasi, or the Hero and the Nymph ; Uttara Rama Cheritra, or Continuation of the History of Rama ; Malati and Madhava, or the Stolen Marriage ; Mudra Rakshasa, or the Signet of the Minister ; Retnavali, or the Necklace, translated from the original Sanscrit ; together with an account of the Dramatic System of the Hindus, Notices of the different Dramas, &c. By Professor H. H. WILSON, of the University of Oxford. Second Edition. 2 vols. 8vo. 1. Is. Scenes and Characteristics of Hindostan, with Sketches of Anglo-Indian Society. By Miss EMMA ROBERTS. Second Edition. 2 vols. ppst 8vo. cloth. 18s. " Miss Roberts's pictures are all drawn with great spirit and accuracy, and remarkable for the truth of their colouring." Quarterly Review. The Overland Guide Book, a complete epi- tome of useful information for the Overland Traveller to India via Egypt : with Remarks upon Outfit, &c. By Capt. JAMES BARBER, H.C.S. 2nd Edition. Post 8vo. cloth. 5s. " The advice furnished is not only sound and honest, but also judicious and practicable The individual whose pleasure or business leads him to traverse the route treated of, will find inseparable disappointment and irretrieva- ble inconvenience if lacking the information contained in its pages : for the author is not only well acquainted with his subject, but has carefully studied the wants and difficulties of the race of travellers of either sex." Times. 7, LEADENHALL STREET. Despatches, Minutes, and Correspondence of the Marquess Wellesley, K.G., during his Administration in India. Revised by his LORDSHIP. 5 Vols. 8vo. cloth, with Portrait, Map, &c. 6. 10s. " A publication of extraordinary interest." Edinburgh Review. A Gazetteer of the Punjab, Sinde, Afghan- istan, Beloochistan, and Neighbouring States, compiled by authority of the Honourable Court of Directors of the East- India Company, and chiefly from documents in their possession. By EDWARD THORNTON, Esq. 2 vols. 8vo. l. 5s. The East-India Calculator; or Guide to the Merchant and Trader, in computation of Interest, Commission, Rent, Wages, &c. in Indian Money ; containing copious Tables of the Ex- changes between London, Calcutta, Madras, and Bombay, and of the relative Value of Coins current in Hindostan, Tables of the Weights of India and China, with their respective Proportions, &c. ; also an Account of the Moneys, Weights, and Measures of India, China, Persia, Arabia, &c., collected from the best sources. By THOMAS THORNTON, Esq. 8vo. cloth. 21s. Cotton- Wool, Raw Silk, and Indigo, Papers respecting the cultivation and manufacture of. Printed by order of the Honourable East-India Company. 8vo. 12s. The Ship, its Origin and Progress, a com- plete Naval History ; together with a Description of every kind of Vessel, to the close of 1848. Illustrated by Plates, and accompanied by a Book of Flags of all Nations. By FRANCIS STEINITZ. 4to. half-bound. 2. 10s. Hints to Cadets ; with a few Observations on the Military Service of the Honourable East -India Company. By CAPTAIN POSTANS, Bombay Army. Post 8vo. cloth. 3s. 6d. The Customs and Manners of the Mussul- mans of India, with a full and exact Account of their various Rites and Ceremonies from the Moment of Birth to the Hour of Death. By G. A. HERKLOTS, M.D. 8vo. 16s. 10 WM. H. ALLEN & CO., Medical Advice to the Indian Stranger. By JOHN M'CosH, M.D., Member of the Bengal Medical Service. Post 8vo. cloth lettered. 5s. 6d. " The Cadet may accept this as a valuable addition to his luggage. It contains, in a short space, a mass of useful information for Europeans visiting India. People of all classes will find something in it applicable to their particular circum- stances and position ; and to individuals connected with the military or civil service it will be especially valuable. The medical hints are thoroughly practical, and the notes upon cliroate and diet cannot be too earnestly recommended to the attention of all our countrymen in the East." Atlas. " We cordially recommend the work as an exceedingly sensible, well-written book, replete with useful and even valuable information." Naval and Military Gazette. Horsburgh's Directory. The India Direc- tory ; or, Directions for Sailing to and from the East-Indies, China, Australia, and the interjacent Ports of Africa and South America. Compiled chiefly from Original Journals of the Honourable Com- pany's Ships, and from the Observations and Remarks resulting from the Experience of Twenty- One Years in the Navigation of those Seas. By JAMES HORSBURGH, Esq., F.R.S., &c. Fifth Edition. 2 vols. 4to., cloth lettered. . 6s. Horsburgh's Charts, for the Navigation from England to India and China, and throughout the Eastern Seas, viz. 1. North Atlantic Ocean. 6s. 2. South Atlantic Ocean. 7s. 6d. 3. Anchorage at Gough's Island. 2s. 4. Bird's Islands and Doddington Rock. 3s. 6d. 5 & 6. Cape of Good Hope, S. E. Africa, and Madagascar Seas. 2 sheets. 10s. 6d. 7. Indian Ocean. 7s. 6d. 8. Arabian Sea andEast Africa. 7s. 6d. 0. Hindoos tan Coasts and Islands. 7s. 6d. 10. Bombay Harbour. 10s. 6d. 11. Goa Road and River and Murmagoa Anchorage. 7s. 6d. 12. Maldiva Islands and Channels. 5s. 13. Bay of Bengal. 6s. 14. Peninsula and Islands of India, East of Bengal Bay. 9s. 15. West Coast of Sumatra. 6s. 16. Straits of Malacca and Singapore. 1 sheet. 7s. 6d. 17, 18, & 19. Straits of Malacca and Singapore. 3 sheets. 18s. 20. Strait of Sunda. 6s. 21. Straits of Banca and Caspar. 7s. 6d. 22. Carimata Passage and Borneo West Coast. 7s. 6d. 23. Straits of Rhio, Ihirian, Lingin, and Singapore. 7s. 6d. 24 & 25. China Sea and Coasts adja- cent. 2 sheets. 15s. 26. Canton River and its approximate Channels. 7s. 6d. 27. East Coast of China. 8s. 6d. 28. Bashee Islands and Channels be- tween Luzon and Formosa. 3s. 6d. 29. 30, & 31. Eastern Passages to China. 3 sheets, jtfl.lls. 6d. 32. Passages through the Barrier Reefs, Australia East. 4s. 7, LEADENHALL STREET. 11 of Ifirtfta anfc Cfytna. All from the latest Surveys, and drawn by JOHN WALKER. A Newly constructed and improved Map of India, Compiled chiefly from Surveys executed by Order of the Hon. East- India Company. On six sheets Size 5 ft. 3 in. wide ; 5 ft. 4 in. high. 2. 12s. 6d. ; or on cloth, in a case, 3. 13s. 6d. Map of India ; From the most recent Authorities. On two sheets Size, 2 ft. 10 in. wide ; 3 ft. 3 in. high. 18s. ; or on cloth, in a case, 25s. Map of the Western Provinces of Hindoostan, The Punjab, Cabool, Sinde, &c. ; including all the States between Candahar and Allahabad. On four sheets Size 4 ft. 4 in. wide ; 4 ft. 4 in. high. 31s. 6d. ; or on cloth, in a case, 45s. Map of the Punjab and Sikh Territory. On one sheet. 5s. ; or on cloth, in a case, 6s. Map of Afghanistan and the Adjacent Countries. On one sheet Size 2 ft. 3 in. wide ; 2 ft. 9 in. high. 9s. ; or on cloth, in a case, 12s. Map of the Overland Routes between England & India, With the other Lines of Communication. On one sheet Size 2 ft. 9 in. wide ; 2 ft. 2 in. high. 9s. ; or on cloth, in a case, 12s. Map of the Routes in India ; With Tables of Distances between the principal Towns and Military Stations. On one sheet Size 2 ft. 3 in. wide ; 2 ft. 9 in. high. 9s. ; or on cloth, in a case, 12s. Map of China, From the most Authentic Information. One large sheet Size 2ft. 7 in. wide ; 2 ft. 2 in. high. 8s. ; or on cloth, in a case, 11s. Map of India and China, Burmah, Siam, the Malay Peninsula, and the Empire of Assam. On two sheets Size 4 ft. 3 in. wide ; 3 ft. 4 in. high. 21s. ; or on cloth, in a case, 30s. Published immediately on the Arrival of the MARSEILLES PORTION of each OVERLAND DESPATCH. 32 closely-printed pages, price Is. Stamped, or 24s. per annum. ALLEN'S INDIAN MAIL, AND Btgtster of {nttlltcjmtt FROM BRITISH AND FOREIGN INDIA, CHINA, AND ALL PAETS OF THE EAST. This Paper furnishes a full, exact, and authentic body of informa- tion respecting the countries above named, compiled not merely from public journals, but from private and exclusive sources, to the latest date. The intelligence may be classed under the following general A SUMMARY AND REVIEW, in which the substance of the news brought by each Mail is digested into a perspicuous narrative, with critical comments. POLITICAL AND LOCAL INTELLIGENCE from each of the Presidencies of India, from China, Persia, and other Eastern countries. GOVERNMENT GENERAL ORDERS, COURTS-MARTIAL, &C. APPOINTMENTS, FURLOUGHS, &C. Arrival and Departures of Ships and Passengers in India. REPORTS OF TRADE AND MONEY MARKETS. The intelligence under these heads is so arranged as to be readily referred to, the same being alphabetically dispersed. THE HOME INTELLIGENCE RELATING TO INDIA, besides original leading articles, Correspondence, and Reviews of Books, comprehends Proceedings in Parliament, Appointments, Casualties, Arrivals, Departures, Extension of Furloughs, and all Affairs connected with India and the Services. LITERATURE AND SCIENCE. Under this head, each number of the INDIAN MAIL is enriched with matter, original and selected, archaeological, critical, and miscel- laneous, illustrative of the literature and science of the East. Each year's Papers form a moderate -sized volume, which, with its Analytical Index, forms a complete ASIATIC ANNUAL REGISTER and LIBRARY OF REFERENCE. The contemporary Press has pronounced the INDIAN MAIL to be INDISPENSABLE to all those who have friends or relatives in the East, as affording the only correct information regarding the Services, Movements of Troops, Shipping, and all events of Domestic and Individual interest. RETURN TO the circulation desk of any University of California Library or to the NORTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY Bldg. 400, Richmond Field Station University of California Richmond, CA 94804-4698 ALL BOOKS MAY BE RECALLED AFTER 7 DAYS 2-month loans may be renewed by calling (510)642-6753 1-year loans may be recharged by bringing books to NRLF Renewals and recharges may be made 4 days prior to due date. DUE AS STAMPED BELOW 1997 mi I^H^BH